m-* iiilM ARCHIPELAGO ClilNA.&JAEAN. DIREGIORX i LL BE FOUND ^TatJan 8-1 riGURES INDICATE THE PACES IN WHICH THE RE3PECTIVE DESCRIPTIONS WILL BE FOUND A DIRECTORY FOR THE NAVIGATION OF THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, CHINA, AND JAPAN^^ THE STEAITS OF MALACCA AND SUNDA, AND THE PASSAGES EAST OF JAYA. CANTOX, SHANGHAI, THE YELLOW SEA, AND JAPAN, WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE WINDS, MONSOONS, AND CURRENTS, AKD GEXERAL IXSTRt-CTIOXS FOR THE VAEIOVS CHANXELS, HAKBOVRS, ETC. SECOND EDITION. BY ALEXANDER GEOEGE JINDLAY, F.R.G.S., Honorary Member of the Societa Geografica Italiana. LONDON : PUBLISHED BY RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE, 53, FLEET STREET, E.C. 1878. ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL. TREFACE, Tais volume may be considered as a sequel to our Sailing Directory for the Ind'an Ocean, which describes all the coasts and islands between the Cape of Good Hope and the Straits of Malacca and Sunda, the great, westward portals of the vast archipelago which is described in the present work. Although each book is complete in itself, still tliey may be taken together as the modern representative of our old "Oriental Navigator," which was first issued from this house by the predecessors of the present publisher, in 1775, a fourth edition being completed in 1808. The arrangement of that quarto volume is very much the same as that now followed in these two •works ; and, as is stated in the Preface to the Indian Ocean Directory, was copied, with most of its matter, from the Oriental Navigator, by the late Captain James Horsburgh, in the first edition of his work, published in 1809—11. Captain Horsburgh died in May, 1836. This Directory completes the series of those drawn up or edited by the writer. Those for the North Atlantic and South Atlantic Oceans, embracing all the area northward, between Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope ; those for the Indian Ocean and Indian Archipelago giving all the countries between the Cape of Good Hope and the North of China, while the circuit is completed by the Directories for the Pacific Ocean. These last named works were designed by the author 20 years ago ; and, with the exception of this book, all have been before the world for some years, and, it is hoped, have done good service. They were drawn up from materials scattered over a wide range of literature, and the collection of which involved much labour and research. This book differs in some degree from the others, for a considerable por- tion of it is taken from the " Pilots," published by the Hydrographic oflB.ce, so carefully compiled, chiefly by Commander John W. King, P.N., and embracing all the information given by former works, combined with the recent observations of many naval officers. For the China Sea and Coast of China we are thus indebted to these Admiralty works, and we fuUy acknowledge our indebtedness to them. In iv PREFACE. many parts we have somewhat curtailed the details, without, it is hoped, impairing their utility to the Mercantile Marine. The other portions of this book have been derived from various and numerous sources, the chief of which we may briefly indicate, proceeding in the geographic order in which the book is arranged. The Strait of Malacca was partially surveyed, by direction of the East India Company, by Captains Moresby, Ward, and Moore, and part of the Sands by Captain Daniel Ross. The labours of these zealous officers, in the early days of hydrography as at present understood, have been alluded to in the introductory remarks to the Indian Ocean Directory. The northern part of the Sumatra coast was re-examined by Commander Fell, under the same auspices, in 1851 — 8. Subsequently to this the Sumatran side was surveyed by Lieutenant Jackson, in 1860. The second great entrance to the Indian Archipelago— the Strait of Sunda lias been well surveyed by the Dutch ; and it is to this nation, and the zeal and talent of their officers, that we are largely indebted for our exact acquaintance with the hydrography of the archipelago ; and, also, it may be at once stated, that larger portions of the ensuing work are dei^ved from the same sources. Subsequent to the cession of Java, and other possessions, to the Dutch nation, after the vigorous policy inaugurated by Sir Stamford Raffles during the British occupation of that fine island, the queen of the archipelago, very much attention was paid by the Netherlands officers to the acquisition of knowledge in almost every branch of science relating to their extensive territories ; and, however much may have been said as to their exclusive policy, it is certain that a vast amount of knowledge, and the records of the experience of a large number of most competent observers, was given to the world ; but their memoirs being too frequently in the Dutch language, one not universally understood, they were left unheeded by those most interested in them, and thus it became a general opinion that this enterprising nation desired to keep the information that was acquired under these auspices to itself. Of late years this opinion has been fully met, and it is now accorded that no country has done better service to science. For hydrography, the establishment of the Commission for the improve- in nt of the Indian sea charts, at Batavia, under the enlightened Governor- General, the Baron Van der Capellen, in 1821, a period when our naiitical surveys were first being commenced on a more extended s ale, has led to great results. They are detailed generally in the ensuing pages ; but ic is desired that every acknowledgement of our obligations to the labours of this commission should be given. They are continued to this day, and are constantly adding to our stock of information. The works of Capt.-Lieut. Baron Peter Melvill van Carnbee have been alluded on page 150 hereafter. It is to this young officer, perhaps, more than any other individual, that we PEEFACE. V owe a connected view of the labours of the commission to which he was secretary, as well as one of its most active surveyors. The Strait of Sunda, as before said, was surveyed by Lieuts. Rietveld and Boom, in 1848, and since that time many additional observations have been added for its improvement. Of the North Coast of Java we have surveys of some minuteness, executed by Lieutenants Escher, Eschauzier, Staring, Eietveld, Boom, and others, which are generally sufficient for navigation. A portion of the Java Sea is still incomplete on the charts, and is imper- fectly described, and dependant on old observations ; but the part between the Straits of Sunda, comprising the Thousand Islands, &c., has been more recently examined. Banka Strait has been excellently surveyed by Lieuts. Stanton and Eeed, E.N., in H.M.S. Saracen, in 1859-60; and this important service has discovered a more direct and open channel through this great highway. The charts and directions for the strait leave little to be desired. Gaspar Strait, as now shown, is from the survey by the U.S. officers, in 1854. Carimata Strait, the easternmost of the western passages between Sumatra and Borneo, is still unsurveyed, although many of its dangers and features were fixed by Captains Eoss and Maughan. The labyrinth of islands and passages to the north-westward, the channels leading to Singapore, have not been completely and systematically surveyed, but the charts and directions are now so far complete that the main routes are quite sufficiently known and described for safe navigation. Lieutenants Melvill van Carnbee, Blommendal, and Edeling, have executed considerable portions, and their charts have been improved, especially Ehio Strait, by the examination of Lieuts. Eeed and Stanton, E.N. Singapore Strait was surveyed by a very zealous officer, J. T. Thompson, Esq., F.E.G-.S., the government surveyor at Singapore, and the constructor of those excellent monitors the Horsburgh and Eaffles Lighthouses, which mark its East and West entrances. A portion of this important strait has since been re-surveyed by Lieuts. Eeed and Eichards, E.N. The Gulf of Siam, which has been very imperfectly laid down on our charts, was well surveyed, and its dangers and main features accurately de- lineated in H.M.S. Saracen, commanded by Staff-Commander J. Eichards, a coast line of 1,000 miles in extent in the short space of twenty months, in 1856 — 8, a work which reflects much ci'cdit on its author. Cambodia, or Lower Cochin China, was also surveyed by the same officers. Of the coast of the Annamite empire, which now belongs to the French, our knowledge is less perfect. The Gulf of Tong King and Hainan Island are also mainly dependent upon the former surveys of Daniel Eoss and other officers, im- proved by the observations of Mr. Kerr, E.N. The western shores of the great island of Borneo are well laid down and described. A large portion of it was suiveyed, minutely and excellently, by Sir Edward Belcher, and other parts were completed by Lieut. D. M. vi PREFACE. Gordon, partially so by Capt. Drink water Bethune, and of late some points have been revisited by the Admiralty surveyors, conducted by Commander Ward. Palawan, and some of the islands North of Borneo, were elaborately surveyed and profusely described by Captain Bate. The western coast of the Philippine Islands have been generally laid down from the surveys of various Spanish officers. The China Sea is perhaps the locality where hydrography has made the greatest changes of late years. Up to 1862 the charts of this great highway exhibited a labyrinth of detached shoals, scattered about without order or connection, laid down from the isolated observations of zealous officers of the East India service, many of which are now difficult of recognition, from the vague manner of their announcement. The increasing importance of the China commerce, and the advance in the sailing powers of the ships em- ployed in it, caused this great sea to be much more frequented than in former years. Since the year above named, Commander Peed, with a moderate staff, in H.M.S. Rifleman, has examined the outer line of dangerous shoals ■which limit the two great channels, which are separated by a vast range of dangerous coral reefs and shoals, leaving the clear main channel to the north-west, and the Palawan Channel to the south-east of them perfectly free from danger for those vessels which beat up or down the China Sea by either passage in the opposite monsoons. In the work these dangers are fully described and enumerated. The Eastern Passages are less known, and their hydrography, generally, is less advanced than in other parts. A great portion of the islands, claimed by the Dutch, are, with the exception of their noble possessions in Java, more or less under the control of native chiefs, and therefore their commerce, in a European sense, is of minor importance ; therefore they have attracted less attention. Still very much has been done by the Dutch officers. Of Java we have before spoken. Of the volcanic range, to the eastward, the coasts have been surveyed by various officers, under the direction of the Commission at Batavia ; and the account of its navigation was drawn up by Mr. J. Swart and Melvill van Carnbee. The remarkable island of Celebes is, in many parts, very vaguely repre- sented, but its main points are well fixed and delineated. Thus Makassar, its chief port, was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher, as were the ports at its N.E. end. The remainder of its coasts rest on the more vague authorities of Dutch travellers and voyagers, and, for the great Southern Gulf of Buni, on the single voyage of Rajah Sir James Brooke. The groups to the east- ward of this are also but indifferently known, although there are several tracks of eminent voyagers which have served to correct the main points and features. Of these, the surveys of Lieut. Gregory of the Dutch navy, with thoae of M.M. Kolff, Mudera, Miiller, and other Dutch officers, may PEEFACE. xii be enumerated. The celebrated Dumont D'Urville also made a cruise through a portion of the archipelago and settled many of its points. To these may be added the names of Sir Edward Belcher, Owen Stanley, and other British, officers, so that although as a whole our charts and directions may be somewhat defective, they are still sufficient for the general purposes of navigation. The coast of China is of vastly greater importance to commerce now that its ports and coasting trade are open to the world. The British Government, alive to the importance of this, commissioned those two well-known officers (now Admirals) R, CoUinson, C.B., and Kellett, to replace the vague outlines left to us by the Jesuits in the first part of the last century, as alluded to on page 940 hereafter. The most important result of this extensive and difficult enterprise has been to give to every one a complete picture of the labyrinthine coast of this great empire, as perfect as of any other portion of the globe. Many minor features have been added to this great achievement, a portion of which was attained under difficult and perplexing circumstances. The directions drawn up appeared at first in the Chinese Repository, but have been followed im- plicitly in this work. The foregoing brief and imperfect enumeration of the authorities upon which the physical portion of this book rests, will show how laborious and extensive must be the operations which can bring together such a mass of materials as is here given. The Editor feels it due to his readers to state, as has been before alluded to, that a large portion has been already found to his hands and purpose, and he has only to unite these scattered memoirs into one more complete work by filling up the vacancies from the many sources which it is hoped, as it is intended, are acknowledged throughout. London^ March 1, 1869. The foregoing preface to the first edition was written before a descrip- tion of the Japanese Archipelago was added to this work. For this description we are indebted to the China Sea Directory, Vol. IV., and recent reports from H.M. surveying vessels. Previous to 1867, the shores of Japan were represented in our charts from the descriptions of its own ingenious geographers. In the year 1867, Commander Brooker commenced an examination of its coasts in H.M.S. Sylvia, and was succeeded in the year 1869 by Commander St. John, who continued the survey without inter- ruption till the year 1872, when the -Sy^i'^a was ordered home for repairs, viii PREFACE. and did not return to Japan till July, 1871, since which time she has remained as a surveying ship on the Japanese coasts. Of late years some surveying operations have also been carried on by the Japanese government. New and important information has been gained from the operations carried on in H.M. surveying vessels Rifleman and Nassau. In the former of these vessels, Staff-Commander J.W. Reed, after carefully examining the dangers in the China Sea, surveyed Balabac Strait and its approaches, and added to the completeness of the survey of Singapore Strait. In the years 1870 — 1872, Commander W. Chimmo, in H.M.S. Nassau, was employed in the Sulu and adjacent seas. The hostility of the natives, however, prevented a complete survey of the Sulu Archipelago. In the year 1877, the Nassau, under Commander Napier, E.N., was engaged in examining the many dangers recently reported as lying near the shore by vessels engaged in trade between the treaty ports of China. H.M.S. Challenger, with the Deep-sea Exploring Expedition on board, be- tween August, 1874, and March, 1875, was some months in the archipelago ; and from several books edited by the officers, and from official reports, much, has been taken to add to the completeness of the ensuing descriptions. The places visited in the passage from Torres Strait to Hong Kong were the Arru and Ki Islands, Banda, Amboina, and Ternate in the Molucca Sea ; Samboangan, Iloilo, and Manila in the Philippines. In returning, the vessel passed through the Philippine Archipelago eastward of Mindoro and Zebu, and westward and southward of Mindanao, thence to the Admiralty Islands N.E. of New Guinea, before proceeding to the northward to Yokohama. The above labours of our own government, and those of the Spanish and Dutch governments, have afforded most of the newly incorporated informa- tion in this book ; but no trouble has been spared to make the work complete up to the date of issue by the careful examination of all other available sources of information. London, September, 1878. CONTENTS. PREFACE. PAGE iii TABLE OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS AND THEIR AUTHORITIES xvii (This Table will serve as an Index to the work arranged geographically. The Diagrams facing the title will also serve as an index.) CHAPTER I. METEOROLOGY. I. Winds and Seasons 1 General systems of the Winds and Monsoons, 1, 2 ; Eainfall, 3 ; Malacca Strait, 5 ; Water-spouts, 6 ; Singapore, 9 ; Banka Strait, 13 ; Java Sea, &c,, 14 ; Siam, &c., 16 ; Eastern Passages, 18. II. Currents 25 General Remarks, 25 ; Malacca and Singapore Straits, 26 ; Siam and China Sea, 28 ; Eastern Passages, 30. IIL Tides and Tide Table 32-38 IV. Temperature 39-40 V. Magnetic Variation 41 CHAPTER II. PASSAGES. 1. The Atlantic to the Strait of Sunda 2. Southern India to the Straits of Malacca 3. Straits of ]\Ialacca to Southern India 4. Sunda Strait to Banka Strait 5. Banka Strait to Sunda Strait I. A. 42 SO 51 52 53 CONTENTS. VASSAGES— continued. 6. Banka Strait to Singapore 7. Singapore to Hong Kong 8. Hong Kong to Singapore 9. Singapore to the Gulf of Siam and to Saigon 10. Gulf of Slam to Sin'japore 11. Saigon to Singapore 12. Eastern lioute to Singapore 13. Eastern Routes to China . 14. China to the Bay of Bengal lo. Passages hetween Australia and China 16. Between the North Coiist of Australia and Singapore 17. From China Homewards 18. Currents and Passages against the Monsoon in the China Sea 19. Passages along the Coast of China . 20. Passages between China and Japan . . PAGE 54 55 61 63 65 66 67 68 74 78 80 81 85 91 99 PART II. DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS. CHAPTER III. THE STRAIT OF MALACCA 106 Eastern Coast, 107 ; Pulo Penang, 107 ; Perak, 112 ; Salangore, 119 ; Ma- lacca, 130 ; Carimon Islands, 136 ; Coast of Sumatra, 137 ; Pulo Brasae Lighthouse, 138. CHAPTER IV. THE STRAIT OF SUNDA 150 The Java Coast, 151 ; First Point Lighthouse, 154 ; Anjer, 162 ; The Coast of Sumatra, 165; Krakaloa, 173; S.E. Coast of Sumatra, 179; Direc- tions, 179—180. CHAPTER V. EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND BANKA STRAIT 181 Sumatra Coast, 181 ; Banka Strait, 187 ; Lucipara Island, 192 ; Palembang, 196 ; Coast of Banka, 199 ; Kalian Point, 210 ; Mintok, 210 ; Stanton and Lucipara Channels, 215 ; Directions, 217 ; Lucipara Channel, 219 ; Northern Coast of Banka, 224. CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER VI. PAGE CASPAR STRAIT 227 Choice of Banki, or Gaspar Strait, 227 ; Dangers Southward of Gaspar Strait, 229 ; Macclesfield Channel, 234 ; Directions, 239 ; Clements Channel, 244 ; Stolze Channel, 249 ; North-eust Coast of Banka, 260 ; Dangers North and N.W. of Gaspar Strait, 264 ; Directions, 268. CHAPTER VII. CARIMATA STRAIT 271 South Coast of Billiton, 273 ; Islands and Dangers in the Fairway, 275 ; West Coast of Borneo, 281 ; Directions, 293. CHAPTER VIII. BANKA TO SINGAPORE 295 1. Detached Islands and Rocks. Detached Islands and Rocks, 295 ; Islands, &c., between Borneo and (Singapore Strait, 304. 2. Rhio Strait 312 General Description, 312; West side of the Strait, 313; East side of the Strait, 319 ; Directions, 326. 3. Varella and Durian Straits 334 Coast of Sumatra, &c., 334 ; Southern Entrances, 344 ; Directions north- ward, 350 ; Directions southward, 353. CHAPTER IX. THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE 357 North side of the Strait, 358; Raffles Lighthouse, 361 ; South side of the Strait, 362 ; Directions, 364 ; Singapore, 366 ; Singapore New Harbour, 374 ; Singapore Strait, Eastern Part, 381 ; Horsburgh Lighthouse, 388; Directions, 390 ; South side of Eastern part of the Strait, 392 ; Direc- tions, 395. CHAPTER X. THE GULF OF SIAM, ETC 400 East Coast of Malay Peninsula, 400 ; East Coast of the Gulf, 412; Bang- kok, 425. xii CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XI. PAGE THE COAST OF COCHIN CHINA, TON-KING, ETC 428 1. Cochin China, 428 ; Camhodia River, 430 ; Don-nai or Saigoa River, 432 ; Saigon, 437 ; Directions, 438. 2. The Gulf of Ton-King, 456 ; River Lacht Huen, 461 ; Haiphong, 462. 3. Coast of China and Hainan Island, 468 ; Pakhoi, 468 ; Hainan Island, 471 ; Hoihow, 473. CHAPTER XII. NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO 481 Tanjong Datu, 481 ; Sarawak or Kuching, 482 ; Bruni River, 490 ; Lahuan, 494 ; Victoria Harhour, 496 ; Ambong Bay, 506. CHAPTER XIII. BALABAC STRAIT AND THE ISLANDS NORTH OF BORNEO, INCLUDING PALAWAN 513 Balamhangan, &c , 513; Banguey South Channel, 517; Balabac Strait, 522 ; North Balabac Strait, 536 ; Palawan West Coast, 539 ; North Coast, 566 ; East Coast of Palawan, 567 CHAPTER XIV. NORTH-WEST COAST OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 585 Calamianes, 586 ; Mindoro West Coast, 589 ; Luzon S.W. Coast, 594 ; Manila, 595 -^ Cape Bojeador, 605 ; Pirataa Island and Reef, 606. CHAPTER XV. THE CHINA SEA, WITH ITS ISLANDS AND DANGERS 531 Anamba Islands, 610 ; Natuna Islands, 613 ; Shoals on eastern side of Main Route, 621 ; Islands and Dingers in the Fairway of the Main Route, 631 ; Paracel Islands and Reefs, 611 ; Macclesfield Bank, 645 ; Palawan Pas- Ba'j;e, 648 ; Dangers on its western side, 654 ; on the eastern aide, 056 ; Shual:* uoar the Main Route, 062 ; Shoals near the Palawan Route, 001. CONTENTS. xiii PART III. THE EASTERN PASSAGES. CHAPTER XVI. PA&E JAVA AND THE JAVA SEA 670 Java, 670; North Coast, 672 ; Batavia, 677 ; Saniarang, 693 ; Sourabaj'a, 696 ; Madura Island, 705 ; Madura Strait, 711 ; Probolingo, 715 ; South Coaat of Java, 718 ; Tjilatjap, 724. The Java Sea, 735 ^ Thousand Islands, 736 ; South Coast of Borneo, 739. CHAPTER XVII. ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF JAVA 742 Baly Island, 742 ; Baly Strait, 748 ; Banjoewangie, 751 ; Lombok Island, 754 ; Alias Strait, 759 ; Sumbawa Island, 761 ; Sapi Strait, 766 ; Man- garai Strait, 769 ; Floris Island, 769 ; Suinba or Sandalwood Island, 775 ; Strait of Floris, 778 ; Solor Strait, 779 ; Allor or Maurissa Strait, 780; Strait of Pantar, 781; Ombay Passage, 782; Wetta Island, 782 ; Island of Timor, 784 ; Kotti, 7»7. CHAPTER XVIII. ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF BORNEO 793; The Strait of Makassar, 793 ; East Coast of Borneo, 794 ; Island of Celebes, 801; Makassar, 803; North Coast of Celebe.s, 809; Boeton Island and Strait, 813; Salayar Island, 817; Postilions and Pater- nosters, 819. Molucca Islands, 820 ; Amboina, 825 ; Banda Islands, 829 ; Gunong Api, 832. The Banda Sea, 834 ; Serwatty Islands, 836 ; Tenimber Islands, 840 ; Arru Inlands, 841 ; Ki Islands, 846; Arafura S-a, 84iS ; Ceram Laut, 851 ; Western part of the Island of New Guinea, 855 ; Mysole, 858 ; Pitt Strait, 86u ; Waigiou, 861; Dampier Strait, S62 ; Pitt's Passage, 865 ; Gilolo Passage, 807 ; Gebi, 869. Halmaheira«r Gilolo, 871 ; Morti, 873 ; The Molucca Islands, 874 ; Ter- nate, 874 ; ilolucca Passage or Sea, 879. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XIX. PAGE ISLANDS NORTH OF THE MOLUCCAS 881 Sangir, 882 ; The Sulu Archipelago, 884 ; Sulu, 889 ; Basilan, 892 ; The Strait of Basilan, 894. The Philippine Islands, 895 ; Mindanao, 896 ; Samboanga, 896 ; Samar, 902 ; Strait of San Bernardino, 903 : Ticao, 904 ; Masbate, 905 ; Zebu, 906; Negros, 908; Panay, 909 ; Iloilo, 910 ; Directions, 913. The Sulu Sea, 916; Snndakan Harbour, 917; Cac:aj'an de Sulu, 918; Mindoio, 924 ; South Coasts of Luzon, 926 ; East Coast of Luzon, 9^9 ; Babuyan Islands, 930 ; Bashi Islands, 93.7. CHINA AND JAPAN. CHAPTER XX. THE COAST OF CHINA BETWEEN HAINAN AND HONG KONG 940 Now Chow, 942 ; Naraoa, 946 ; Canton Pavers, 949 ; Macao, 952 ; La- drones, 954 ; Lema Islands, 960 ; Hong Kong, 9G3 ; Cap-Siug-Mun Passage, 969; Lintin, 970; Directions for Canton River, 971; Canton River, 9/9 ; Boca Tigris, 980 ; Whampoa, 983 ; Canton, 988 ; Si-kiang or West River, 990. CHAPTEE XXI. EAST COAST OF CHINA, BETWEEN HONG KONG AND THE KIVKR MIN 992 Tathong Channel, 992 ; Mirs Bay, 996 ; Bias Baj', 999 ; River Han, 1010 ; Swatow, 1011; Namoa Island, 1012; Chapel Island Light, 1017; Amoy, 1019; Quemoy Island, 1023; Chiinmo Bay, 1024; Ocksou Lighthouse, 1027 ; White Dog Islands, 1030. CHAPTER XXII. F(HlMOSA AND THE PESCADORES ISLANDS 1032 Islands South of Formosa, 1033; East Coast of Formosa, 1034; West Coast of Formosa, 1036; Ta-kau-kon, 1038; Tamsui, 1043; Kelung Harbour, 1045 ; Islands N.E. of Formosa, 1047 ; Meiaco Sima Group, 1048; Ykima Island, 1051. Pvacadorus, or Ponghou Archipelago, 10-51 ; Ponghou Harbour, 1054. CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER XXIII. PAGE RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI lOoG River Min, 10.5fi ; Fuchan, 1060; Double Peak Island, 1064; Namquan Bay, 1066; Sheipii Road, 1073; Kweshan Islands, 107-5; Chusan Ar- chipelago, 1077 ; Chusan Island, 1083 ; Tae-shan Island, 1091 ; Vol- cano Islands, 1092 ; Gutzlaff Island, 1096. Yung River, 1098; Ningpo, 1099; Chapu, 1102; Hang-chu.fu, 1103. The Yang-tse Kiang, 1103; Main or Shawt-ishan Channel, 1106 ; South Entrance, 1108; Directions for Approaching, 1112; Wusung River, 1117; Shanghai, 1122; Wusung to Hankow, 1126. CHAPTER XXIV. FROM THE YANG-TSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF 1128 General Description, Winds, &c., 11 28 ; The Yellow River, or Whang Ho, 1131; Shantung Peninsula, 1138; Chifu, or Yentai Harbour, 1142; Teng-Chau, 1144; Strait of Pe-chili, 1145; Tatsing Ho, 1147; Pei Ho, 1147 ; Tientsin, 1147. Gulf of Liau-tung, 11.53; Great Wall, 1153; The Liau-ho, 1154; New Chwang, 1154; Bittern Shallows, 1158 ; Quang Tung Peninsula, 1159; The Korea, 1161 ; Port Hamilton, 1162. CHAPTER XXV. THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO .... 1163 1. General Descrittion 1163 Treaty Ports, 1165; Climate, 1165; The Japanese Current, or Kuro Siwo, 1167. 2. South and East Coasts of the Archipelago 1168 The Luchu Islands, 1168; A^an Diemen Strait, 1171; South and East Coasts of Kiusiu and Sikok, 1171 ; South-Kast Coast of Nipon, 1172; The Bay of Yedo, 1182; Yokohama, 1187; Volcanic Islets S.E. of Japan, 1192 ; The East Coast of Nipon, 1195. 3. The Seto Uchi or Inland Sea 12oi The Boungo Channel, 1202 ; The Kii Channel, 1202 ; Lsumi Strait, 1207 ; Hiogo and Kobe, 1209; Harima Nada, 1211; Bingo Nada, 1213; Misima Nada, 1216; lyo Nada, 1217; Suwo NaJa, 1218; Simonoseki Strait, 1218. The Goto Islands and West Coasts of Kiusiu and Nipon Goto Islands, 1224 ; Meac Sima Group, 1229 ; Kosiki Islands, 1229 Kagosima Gulf, 1231; Simabara Gulf, 1233; Nagasaki, 1239; Direc tions from Nagasaki to Simonoseki, 1241 ; West Coast of Nipon, 1244 Port Niegata, 1246; Tsugar Strait, 1248; Hakodadi Harbour, 1250; Yezo Island, 1253. 1224 CONTENTS. APPENDIX. NAMES, MONEY, WEIGHTS, MEASTTRES. Geographic Terms.— Method of Spelling Oriental Names, 1255. Malay, Sixgapoue, Etc.— Malay Vocabulary, 1256; Money, 1257; Weights, 1257; Measures, 1258. SiAM— Geographic Tfrms, 1258; Money, 1259; Measures of Length, 1259; Capacity, 1260; Weights, 1260. Cochin China (Anam).— Money, 1260; Measures and Weights, 1261, 1262. Netherlands' India.— Money, Weights, and Measures, 1262-1264. North- West Borneo. — Money and Weights, 1264. Philippine Islands. — Money, Weights, and Measures, 1265. China.— Glossary of Chinese Words, 1266; Money, 1266; Commercial Weights, 1268; Measures, 1268. Japan. — Glossary of Japanese Words, 1269; Money, 1270; Weights, 1270; Measures, 1271. ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Magnetic Variation, Indian Archipelago, with Index to Pages "j 2. „ „ &c. , China and Japan „ „ J 3. Wind Systems, April to September 4. „ October to March 5. Passages in the Indian Archipelago and China Sea 6. Striit of Sunda 7. Straits of Singapore, Durian, and Rhio ... 8. Hong Kong ........ 9. Amoy Harbour ....... 10. Pescadore Islands - - - - - . * 11. Yokohama Anchorage --..-. To face Title. page 38 151 813 963 1019 1051 1187 TABLE OF THE GEOGEAPHICAL POSITION Lat. North. Pagre STRAIT OF MALACCA. Eastern Coast. Pulo Penang ; Fort Cornwallis - Binding Island, N.W. Id. offK.W. pt. „ Anchorage off North end „ Anchorage off S. end - „ S.E. point „ Port Pancore ; Police Station Pulo Katta ... One-fathom Bank Lighthouse - Malacca, flagstaff Pulo Pisang, lighthouse - Little Carimon Island, summit - Coast of Sumatra. Pulo Brasse Lighthouse - Achin River, East entrance point Pulo Way, N.AV. extreme Diamond Point, North extreme - Prauhila Point, extreme Lanksa Bay, Ujong Byan, N.W. point Ujong Tannang, extreme Dehli River, entrance Pulo Varela, summit Point Mattie, outer point Batu Barra River, entrance The Brothers, Pulo Pandan Assarhan River, entrance Reccan River, Pulo Lalang Besar Pulo Roupat, Ujong Bantan Pulo Bucalisse, Tanjong Jati, or N. pt. Siak River, entrance Campou River, entrance 24 30 '5 24 14 35 11 40 10 50 12 40 9 10 52 8 11 30 29 o 5 45 o 5 35 35 5 54 iS 5 16 o 4 53 15 4 36 30 4 21 o 3 48 28 3 46 20 3 22 o 14 o 25 5 3 3 3 I 2 12 8 o 36 30 II 30 43 o 100 20 9 100 32 42 100 34 20 100 34 40 1 100 36 100 36 100 37 55 1 109 59 2 102 15 36 103 15 123 23 95 4 15 95 20 45 95 13 45 97 30 97 52 30 98 2 40 98 17 20 98 43 30 99 29 15 99 31 90 35 30 99 47 40 99 52 45 100 36 30 lOI 40 30 lOI 59 102 12 30 103 30 Various. Bruce, 1875. Various. Ward (corrected), Netherlands Go- 133 vernmeut Sur- 139 vey, 1872-1874 Lieut. Jackson, I.N., I860* 109 114 114 115 115 114 116 124 130 134 136 139 141 142 143 143 143 145 145 145 146 Rose & Moresby. I 146 146 147 148 148 149 I. ▲. TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. Coast of Java. Cape Sangian Sira, S.W. extreme Java Head, extremity First Point, Lighthouse Prince's Island, Southern Carpenter rock „ N.E. point „ S.W. point • Second Point, extremity Panter Reefs, North end Third Point, North extremity Fourth Point, Lightho. & Signal Station Anjer, flRgstaff . . . Thwart-the-Way, South point Great M( rak Island, West point St. Nicholas Point, extreme - Coast of Sumatra. Flat Point, West extreme Little Fortune Island, East point Rada Point, East extreme Keyser Island, or Labuan, S.E. end Borne, fort ... Kalang Bayang Harbour, Klappa Island Tikoes Point, extreme Telok Betong, Light column - Lagoendy Island, West extreme „ Soengal Id., S.E. pt. - Krakatoa Island, peak 2.623 feet Bezee Island, peak 2,825 feet - Sebuko Island, peak 1,416 ft. - Hog Point or Varkenshoek, extreme Zutphen Islands, Hout Island, S.E. pt. - St room Rock - - . Winsor Rock, 2f fathoms Pulo Logok ... North Island, centre EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND BANKA STRAIT. East Coast of Sumatra. Jason Rock North "Watcher Island, Liirhthouse South Brother Island, South point Swallow Rock - . . Lynn Bank . _ . Brfiuwers Reefs, North reef - Clifton Reef Comara ileef - . . Ocean Mail Reef - . . Arend Bank, 4| fathoms Boreas Bank, 6 fathoms City of Carlisle Bank, South end 52 o 46 40 44 30 41 o 30 45 36 15 28 37 44 27 4 3 10 59 30 55 45 52 33 58 30 55 45 57 30 51 30 32 20 46 8 49 o 28 10 50 45 50 o 9 o 57 40 53 15 55 20 54 20 56 10 53 30 48 o 42 o 25 o 13 30 10 25 17 40 4 45 56 o 4 49 30 4 18 o 3 45 o 3 44 o 3 58 30 Lonp. East. Authorities. 105 14 105 12 22 105 II 30 105 9 45 105 14 45 1 105 4 35 105 21 30 105 27 30 105 38 28 105 52 30 105 54 30 105 50 45 105 58 30 106 2 10 104 32 35 104 26 40 104 44 30 104 53 30 104 3» 45 105 2 15 105 13 15 105 15 30 105 14 20 105 21 25 105 26 40 105 29 105 31 105 43 105 47 105 48 45 105 53 20 105 47 50 105 49 30 106 17 45 106 26 30 106 6 c 106 3 50 106 12 106 15 106 3 106 14 30 106 26 106 16 106 27 30 106 25 20 Dutch Surveys 1874. Dutch Charts. Bullock. Wilds. Bullock. Dutch Charts. Various. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. South. Long. East. Authorities. Page Banka Strait. , * , /, Lucipara Island . . - 3 13 o 106 13 Stanton. 192 ,. Point ... 3 13 30 106 3 30 >> 192 Eerste or First Point 2 59 106 2 30 ,, 192 Tweede or Second Point 2 41 105 46 20 >» 193 Derde or Third Point 2 23 105 36 » 194 Vierde or Fourth Point 2 20 105 13 >> 195 Batakarang Point - . - 2 I 104 50 198 Baginda Point ... 3 4 40 106 44 • ) 199 Toboe All Fort 3 48 106 27 23 » 201 Nangka Islands, West Rock - 2 22 53 105 44 50 205 Monopin Hill ... 2 I 45 105 n » 207 Kalian Point, Lighthouse 250 105 7 50 » 210 Lucipara Lightve.-sel 3 7 30 106 5 40 ,, 219 Banka, N. Coast, Melalu Point I 30 10 105 37 50 Various. 225 „ Highest peak of Gu- nong Marass I 51 105 52 )i 225 „ Crassok Point I 28 30 105 56 30 » 226 GASPAR STRAIT. Hancock Shoal ... 3 34 20 107 4 American Survey 229 Hippogriffe Shoal ... 3 33 106 53 40 Wilds. 229 Turtle Shoal 3 33 107 5 40 ij 230 Larabe Shoal ... 3 33 107 10 American Survey 230 Sand Island ... 3 29 107 9 20 » 230 Middle Reef 3 27 30 107 10 20 )> 230 Branding Breakers ... 3 26 107 9 30 >» 230 Fairlie Rock ... 3 27 15 106 59 >> 230 Shoal Water Island 3 19 30 107 II 45 >> 230 Eiiibleton Rock 3 17 20 107 10 ,, 231 Entrance Point ... 3 I 40 106 53 10 >> 234 Pulo Lepar, light . . - 5 26 30 106 55 ,> 235 Pulo Leat, Jelaka, light 2 50 30 107 I 30 >» 236 Brekat Point ... 2 34 106 50 ,, 238 Akbar Shoal ... 2 39 107 II Akhar, 1843. 238 Tree Island ... 2 27 30 106 57 American Survey 238 Gaspar Island, peak 2 24 45 107 3 20 >) 239 Low Island, centre . - - 3 2 15 107 7 45 j> 245 Saddle Island, centre 3 r 40 107 9 10 » 245 South Island, centre 300 107 12 40 >» 245 Table Island, centre 300 107 15 » 245 Hewett Shoal ... 2 53 20 107 10 40 >> 246 Pulo Leat, S.E. point 2 54 30 107 4 >> 247 Heroine Shoal, douUful 3 37 107 45 30 >» 250 Carnbee Rocks . . - 3 33 30 107 39 » 250 Selio Island, South point 3 14 107 30 )> 251 Six Islands, Ross Island 350 107 20 >> 252 Table or Klemar Island, summit 300 107 15 )> 252 Hoog or High Island, centre - 2 51 5 107 19 )> 253 Tanjong Bienga, extreme 2 34 40 107 37 )> 253 N.E. Coast of Banka, Etc. Totawa Bank, Pulo Bocar - - J 2 14 106 31 J. Robinson. 260 TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. South. Horse Eock . . - Fathool Barie Shoal, 2^ fathoms Djederika ShoaJ, 3 feet Palmer Eeef . - . Tanjong Eiah ... Dangers North and N.W. of Gaspar Strait, Canning Rock ... Pare Joie ... Belvedere Shoals, S.W. end - Dutch Shoal Magdalen Reef ... Laniick or Newland Reef Actfeon Rock . „ - Scheweningen Shoal CARniATA STRAIT. Kebatoe or Shoe Island "White Island . - . Zephyr Rock - . . Karang Kawat, North Reef - „ South Reef - Katapang Island - - . Scharvogel Islands, East Island Discovery West Bank ,, Reef - . . ,, East Bank Lavender Bank . . . Cirencester Shoal - . . Bower Shoal . . . Osterly South Shoal Cirencester Bank - - . IMontaran Islands, East Island Catherine or Evans Reef Ontario Reef, centre Soruetou Island, West point - Carimata Island, peak Greig Shoal, 8 feet spot Columbus Shoal . . _ West Coast of Borneo. Sambar Point - - . Mount Minto - . . Succadana, centre of bay Pontianak River, entranee Tanjong INlampawa, extreme - Piilo Sitendang, centre Pulo Baroe, centre - . . Tanjong Batoe Blad, W. extr. of Borneo Sambas River, South point of entrance Tanjong Api ... Fox Shoal, West Rock • Ckmencia lieef - . . 14 30 4 o 59 o 54 o 52 o 2 22 40 2190 2 14 30 2 10 40 I 59 o I 50 40 I 39 48 I 19 12 106 34 o ro6 27 o 106 28 o 106 27 30 106 14 o 107 13 o 107 3 o 106 59 o 106 44 o 106 59 30 106 59 30 106 37 58 106 39 48 3 47 45 3 48 50 3 48 20 3 42 40 3 44 10 3 23 20 3 17 3 38 3 35 45 3 34 40 3 24 5 3 14 30 3 28 45 3 19 3 14 30 2 29 2 31 30 2 I 45 I 42 I 35 40 53 30 51 2 56 30 2 14 I 12 30 North. 020 21 23 36 15 47 35 I II I 56 36 South. 3 32 3 24 08 4 o 3 20 3 10 7 30 08 6 5 07 55 30 08 28 o 08 44 30 08 49 25 09 12 35 09 I 30 08 59 o 08 40 30 08 37 o 08 59 o 08 51 40 08 54 30 08 39 o 08 42 o 08 52 30 08 28 o 08 16 o 110 14 o no 3 40 no o 10 109 10 o 108 54 o 108 43 o 108 43 40 108 50 10 108 59 o 109 20 24 J. Robinson. Varioua. Boss. 1 10 1 10 7 45 7 45 Ward. Scheweningen, 1870 H.M.S. Nassau, 1876. Dutch Survey. H.M.S. Nassau, 1876. H.M.S. Stjlvia,\^Ti Dufch Survey. H.M.S. Sylvia, 1874. Dutch Surrey Croot, 1869. Dutch Survey. Reed. »> Various. >) » Sir E. Belcher. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXI' Page Mankap Island - - - Kumpal Island, West point Toekan Menskoedoe (Gilbert Rocks) Birds' Nest Islands, Boorong Island Ginting Island ... Pyramid Island, centre . Tallack Shoal - Maleden or filaleidong Island Panambungun Island, West point Masien Tiega Islands, West Island BANKA STRAIT TO SINGAPORE. Toejoe Island, S.E. point Pule Joe . . - . Docan Island, centre Totj' Island, centre Taya Island, centre Ilchester Bank, centre - Pulo Sinkep, Boekoe or South point Linga Island, Diang or East point Linga, Dyak Town East Domino, centre Kintar Island, South high bluff. Rodong Island, peak Frederick iieef, centre . Gin or Great Islmd, Pulo Terobi Geldria Banks, Boat Rocks Pido Panjang, Passage Rock Bintang Island, Brakit point Islands between Borneo and Singa. PORE Strait. Dntu Island, peak ... Direction Island . - - Si. Barbe Island, N.E. hill Welstead Shoal .... St. Esprit Group, S.E. Island . S.W. Island . „ Head Island, S. point ,, Hill on South end of largest island .... Green Island, centre . - - Ro iger Rock - . . - Tambelan Island, highest peak - „ North end, Observa. tory Station .... Europe Shoal, 3-fathom patch - Rocky Islets, northern - - . Gap Rock, summit ... St. Julian Island, summit Camels Hump Island, summit - Saddle Island „ . . Barren Island „ - - Victory Island ,, - St. I'ierre Rock « - - 4 30 47 40 14 20 43 41 29 30 21 31 12 54 30 1 9 10 1 1.5 40 58 54 43 30 24 30 39 50 14 20 13 40 6 North. 2 40 24 12 37 42 40 49 40 1 1 30 1 14 30 10 G 14 39 8 6 32 SO 45 33 1.5 35 44 37 31 44 43 41 15 1 1 5 1 27 1 11 19 1 11 9 1 12 30 55 40 1 11 46 1 19 21 1 31 50 1 34 46 1 51 42 110 13 110 1 60 109 57 109 17 30 109 4 108 59 109 6 109 21 109 9 109 12 30 105 20 105 16 20 105 38 30 105 45 45 104 54 104 57 104 22 104 58 104 33 30 104 68 20 104 46 104 26 36 105 9 104 48 104 56 45 104 51 30 104 35 108 35 50 108 1 53 107 13 30 107 63 107 8 30 106 58 15 107 4 41 107 50 107 18 52 107 31 12 107 32 22 107 24 10 107 25 27 107 13 107 34 20 106 43 30 106 52 58 107 2 17 106 25 35 106 18 40 108 38 57 Dutch Survey. M. D. Tallack. Dutch Survey. Various. Tizard. Stanton. Reed. Belcher. xxu TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. North. Authorities. RHIO STRAIT. West Side. Missana Island, North point Niamok, South point Rodong Peak . - - Binan Island, South point Selanga Islands, largest - Oedik Island ... Pulo Rondo or Dumpo - East Bank, 10-feet patch Little Gurras Island, lighthouse - Moeboet Island, East point Sembolang Point, extreme Little Tiemara Island, N.E. end Sau Island, lighthouse on East point Malang Orang Shoal, centre Pan Reef Beacon, North end Little Pan Reef, centre - East Side. Talang Island, West point Siolon or Mantang Island, S.W. hill Rotterdam Reef . . - Pankel Island, South summit Dompa Island, West point Rhio, Fort Crown Prince Terkolei Island, lighthouse Isabella Shoal, West end Little Loban Island, West point Bintang Island, West point „ Subong Point, Andying Id. VARELLA & DURIAN STRAITS. Tanjong Jaboeng, or Cape Bon, extreme Varella or Brahalla I., summit - Pollux Rock . . . . Sinkep Island, Boekoe or South point - Speke Rock . . . . Atkin Rock .... Alang Tiga Group, South Island Basso or Bakauw Point, extreme Baroe or Date Point, extreme - Ponoebo Island, West end Leda Rock - - - . Irene Rock, doubtful ... Allor Island - . . . Great Abang, North end Potona: Island, South end South Brother, centre ... Fiilse Durian, East point Little Durian, South point 26 20 20 20 24 15 27 32 30 8 32 10 36 10 40 35 44 30 49 15 51 30 56 45 1 3 6 1 8 30 1 9 45 1 11 12 43 30 44 45 45 25 49 30 52 40 56 36 57 10 57 30 58 55 1 4 5 1 10 55 South. 58 48 10 43 10 38 33 30 30 29 50 19 North. 45 South. 17 North. 12 24 5 27 50 36 20 36 10 33 30 37 20 43 25 104 31 104 33 45 104 26 35 104 27 50 104 21 30 104 18 20 104 18 30 104 21 5 104 22 18 104 18 12 104 16 12 104 12 25 104 11 6 104 9 40 104 11 25 104 9 18 104 36 104 31 104 25 25 104 21 40 104 25 104 26 35 104 20 25 104 15 15 104 13 35 104 13 104 18 36 104 22 10 104 24 104 29 104 22 104 6 l(/4 3 104 2 103 45 10 103 47 10 104 23 10 104 9 104 8 30 104 18 10 104 12 104 5 103 45 40 103 41 50 103 39 50 Reed and Tizard Van Carnbee, Stanton, &c. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Polphin Isl.'tnd, summit Sabon Island, Decpwater Point - Tiittle Carimon Island, N.E. point Pulo Doncan, centre Tree Island, centre ; beacon proposed THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE. Tanjong Bolus or Baru, extreme Carimon Islands, North Brother „ Little Carimon, N.E. point Coney Island, Raffles lighthouse • SINGAPORE, Fort FuUerton - Bintang Great HiU Barbukit Hill, summit 645'feet - Pedra Branca, Horsburgh lighthouse THE GULF OF SIAM. Malay Peninsula, East Coast. Pulo Eu - Pulo Tingy, summit ... Pulo Aor, South peak 180.5 feet - Pulo Pemangil, South peak Pulo Varela .... Howard Shoal - . - - Pulo Brala .... Pulo Kapas, S.W. point Kalantan, entrance of small river East of Kalantan River ... Great Redang Island, Bukit Mara „ peak Turtle-back Island, South side - Baltu Rackil Rock, centre Cape Patani, N.E. point Singora, S.W. point of Pulo Ticos Koh Krah, S.E. point - Pulo Obi, Square rock on S.W. point - Pulo Panjang, N. W. corner of S.W. bay Pulo Way, South extreme of sandy bay, near middle of N.E. side of W, island Koh Tang or Koh Prins, South rock of group - - - - _ - Tanqualah, North point of middle island of group - - . - Condor Reef . - . . False Pulo Obi, West side Teeksou Island, N.W. side Pulo Dama, Rocky Island on E. Side - Water Island (Tianmoi) W. point Rockj^ Island, Kamput, centre - Kusrovie Rock, centre . . - 50 47 1 10 58 1 8 40 1 16 10 1 11 50 1 10 1 9 50 I 17 20 1 4 20 1 24 20 1 20 7 18 26 30 34 30 18 17 49 13 1 6 11 53 6 44 21 5 48 16 5 49 40 6 40 36 6 58 1 7 13 54 8 24 47 8 25 37 9 18 14 9 55 11 10 21 20 10 15 24 10 43 8 56 43 9 57 12 9 41 54 10 24 44 10 27 58 11 6 25 103 38 40 103 32 20 103 23 103 43 103 40 103 30 103 20 45 103 23 103 44 50 103 51 18 104 27 20 104 12 20 104 24 30 104 17 104 9 104 34 15 104 22 103 38 103 38 30 103 38 103 16 4 102 20 47 103 1 39 103 48 102 37 9 101 43 56 101 18 39 100 36 12 100 45 27 104 48 49 103 29 14 102 53 29 102 56 34 103 8 49 102 61 104 31 33 104 49 10 104 21 29 103 47 4 104 11 55 102 47 49 Thompson and others. Thompson. Various. Richards. Lieut. Veron. Richards. Xxiv TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Long East. Ellen Bangka Shoal - - - Koh Kong, South point of river en- trance - - - - - Koh Chang, small island on W. side Chentabun River, entrance, Kho Chula, or Bar Island - - - - Koh Samit, Brown rock, off Lena Ya - Koh Luem, peak . - - Cape Liant, N.W. rock of Koh Mesan - Koh Si-chang, S.W. point of Koh Kam Bangkok Kiver, pile lighthouse - Bangkok, Old British factory - Maconchisi . _ . - COAST OF COCHIN CHINA, TONG KING, ETC. Oape St. James, lighthouse S ligon. Observatory Kega Point . . - Cape Padaxan . . - Cape Varela . - - Cape San-ho - - - Pulo Canton ... Cape Touron ... Touron Bay, Observatory island Cape Choumay, extreme Eiver Hue, extreme Gulf of Tong King. Cape Lay . . . . Tseu or Goat Island - - . Matt Island . - Lacht Kouenn - . . - Mfe Island, centre . . . Ne Island . . . . Lacht Huen River, Houdau Island light- house - - - . . Haiphong . . . - Gowtow Island, South point Cape Pahklung . . - - Pakhoi . . - . - Cape Cami . - - . Hainan Island, Hainan Head Hoi How town, N.W. end Pyramid Point - Cape Bastion Tinhosa Island, South end O II 11 11 11 33 12 1 20 12 27 43 12 30 32 12 57 30 12 35 8 13 9 56 13 29 26 13 44 20 13 39 10 19 14 10 46 39 10 42 11 21 12 §5 13 44 15 24 16 8 16 7 16 21 16 35 30 17 6 18 8 18 54 30 19 4 30 19 21 19 52 20 37 30 20 49 107 44 30 21 31 21 28 57 20 13 20 12 20 4 30 18 55 18 9 30 18 39 30 102 47 102 57 14 102 15 49 102 4 19 101 26 39 100 38 59 100 56 52 100 49 22 100 35 20 100 28 42 100 11 107 5 25 106 42 31 107 59 40 108 58 109 24 80 109 14 109 6 108 21 108 17 108 3 107 42 107 7 30 106 17 10 105 56 105 43 9 105 55 30 106 106 49 30 106 40 20 50 108 17 109 6 40 109 55 110 44 30 110 19 108 21 30 109 33 110 42 Ellen BangJca, 1870. Richards. Reed. French charts. British & French partial surveys to 1877. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXV i.at. Lon?. North. East. Authorities. Page N.W. COAST OF BORNEO. Tanjong Api .... °1 56 36 109 20 24 Belcher. 48C Tanjong Datu .... 2 5 15 109 39 13 Reed. 48C Sarawak River, Santubong entrance, Kra Island .... 1 42 110 18 Bflcher. 48C Cape Sipang .... 1 48 2 110 20 48f Po Point Light .... 1 43 10 110 31 30 481 Tanjong Barram ... 2 36 15 1'3 58 35 Reed. 48F Gunung Malu, summit ... 4 5 20 114 55 8 Bplcher. 4S8 Bruni Bluff, extreme ... 5 3 115 3 20 Gordon. 490 Bruni River, palace ... 4 52 40 114 55 20 49(J Labuan Group, Victoria Harbour, Ram- Mean of Belcher, sey point flugstaff ... 5 16 33 115 15 15 Richards, &Reed. 49f Mangalum Island, S.W. point - 6 10 40 116 35 20 Gordon. 50a North Furious Shoals, 11 fathoms 7 3 19 116 18 15 Reed. 510 South Furious Shoals, 7 fathoms 6 48 30 116 14 45 510 Batomande Rocks ... 6 52 42 116 36 24 Belcher. 511 BALABAC STRAIT. Balambangan Island, South point 7 12 20 116 51 40 Reed, 1868-9. 513 „ Tiga Islet, centre 7 21 12 117 2 50 514 Banguey Peak, 1876 feet 7 18 10 117 5 20 51.5 Lit. MoUeangan Island, centre - 7 5 25 117 1 30 516 Mallawalle, South extreme 7 1 45 117 IS 10 518 Balabac Island, South point 7 48 40 117 1 518 Calandorang Bay Lt. on S. pt. of entr. - 7 59 117 4 20 f9 5i6 S. Mangsee Island, centre 7 31 5 117 18 20 ij 531 Lumbucan, N.W. extreme 7 50 20 117 12 50 534 Nasubatta Island ... 8 1 45 117 9 50 53.5 Secam Island, East end ... 8 10 40 117 1 35 -' 536 Palawan Island — West Coast. Cape Buliluyan, S. extreme of Palawan 8 20 25 117 9 41 Bate. 53S Capyas Island .... 8 26 25 117 10 16 9f 54G Caneepaan River, entrance 8 34 40 117 14 41 )j 640 Bulanhow Mountain, highest part 8 36 25 117 21 11 540 Cape Seeacle .... 8 36 30 117 14 1 541 Pagoda Cliff; highest part 8 43 45 117 29 6 jj 541 Balansungain Islands, "West island 8 45 35 117 21 21 jj 541 Mantaleengahan Mountain, highest part 8 49 22 117 39 26 jj 542 Illaan Hill .... 8 55 10 117 31 41 ^^ 542 Pampangduyang Point - . - 8 57 40 117 31 56 jy 542 Gantung Peak, highest part 8 57 53 117 47 56 99 542 Eran Quoin, highest part 9 3 25 117 38 56 if 542 Bivouac Islet, North extreme - 9 4 52 117 42 28 99 543 Pu-lute Peak, highest part 9 8 8 117 56 11 Jj 543 Malapakkun Island, highest part 9 14 50 117 50 11 99 543 Tay-bay-u Bay, entr. of Malanut R. 9 14 50 117 59 46 99 544 Victoria Peak, 5,680 ft., highest part - 9 22 30 118 17 26 545 Palm Islet, highest part 9 22 40 118 1 48 99 545 Long Point, West extreme 9 38 8 118 19 6 9) 546 Anipahan, huts .... 9 43 50 118 27 11 9* 647 I. A. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. North. Long East. Authorities. Page Thamb Peak, highest part of range °9 47 45 118 35 26 Bate. 547 Hen and Chickens, largest islet - 9 58 23 118 36 16 9> 547 Ulugan Bay, Observatory Head- 10 6 11 118 46 26 >J 547 Cleopatra Needle, highest part of range - 10 7 38 118 59 16 )> 551 Mount Peel, highest part 10 10 118 32 26 fi 551 Cape Sangbowen ... 10 11 45 118 47 56 }> 551 Jib-boom Bay, Zoe islet - 10 20 20 118 57 11 l» 551 May-day Bay, watering place - 10 24 22 119 1 56 »> 551 Port Barton, Bubon point 10 29 19 119 5 37 » 553 Pagdanan Point ... 10 33 119 13 21 >> 553 Bold Head, highest point 10 35 10 119 6 56 552 AVedge Island „ - 10 43 35 119 11 44 ,, 554 Mount Capoas, highest p irt - 10 48 10 119 16 56 )> 554 Cape Capoas, extreme ... 10 51 38 119 12 6 554 Malampaya Pound entrance. Round Islet 10 59 25 119 14 16 9> 555 Pirate Bay, Look-out Hill, highest part 10 56 10 119 16 26 J9 557 Pancol Village, Stockade 10 52 9 119 22 56 ,f 560 Baulao Village „ - 10 46 15 119 26 4 >> 56'0 Bacuit Baj', Old Village 11 2 30 119 24 56 )> 563 Bacuit Village, or Talan-dac, Stockade - 11 11 119 22 56 )J 563 The Horn, Matinloc, highest part 11 11 119 16 41 » 562 Tapiutan Island „ 11 12 50 119 15 18 99 562 Cadlao, or Table Top Id. „ 11 13 6 119 21 1 yy 564 High Table Range „ 11 14 45 119 27 50 566 North extreme of Palawan, highest part of Cabuli Island ... 11 26 25 119 29 46 )i 567 Palawan— East Coast. Ursula Island, West end 8 20 42 117 29 56 568 Rocky Bay, Pirate Inlet 8 33 117 32 31 iy 568 Tac-bo-lu-bu, entrance of rivulet 8 43 21 117 44 26 569 Point Sir James Brook - . . 8 46 117 48 46 569 Nose Point .... 8 53 117 59 11 ,, 569 East Island, N.W. extreme 8 53 45 118 13 56 570 Ma-la-nut Mound ... 9 9 15 118 2 41 570 Casuarina Point - . . . 9 15 118 24 16 9, 571 30th of June Island, highest part 9 22 30 118 33 56 }y 572 Port Royalist, Fresh Water Rivulet entrance .... 9 34 30 118 40 6 9, 573 „ Tide-pole Point 9 43 43 118 43 3 ,9 673 Deep Bay, Anchorage Island, N.E. end - 9 56 30 118 bo 19 99 575 Bold Point .... 10 1 45 119 8 56 575 Green Island Bay, Relief Point - 9 9 45 118 12 1 677 Barbacan Village, Stockade 10 21 45 119 23 1 ,9 577 Mount Baring, 2,100 feet 10 24 55 119 32 56 577 Ulan Village .... 10 25 12 119 34 31 99 578 Dumaran Island, East extr. Pirate Hd. - 10 34 40 120 11 99 679 „ Village, fort - . . 10 32 119 45 51 579 Carlandagan Island, highest part 10 40 120 14 56 d«0 Barren Island, Watering Bay - 10 42 119 41 36 99 580 Tai-Tai Village, fort - 10 50 119 30 56 681 Silanga Village, Stockade 11 1 45 119 33 46 582 Broken Island, highest part 11 7 25 119 44 41 99 584 Santa Monica Village, Stockade 11 18 119 33 41 99 584 East peak, highest part - - 11 17 40 119 31 31 9) 584 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXVll COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, ETC. Ol)8ervatory Island, West side - Green Island ... Haycock Island . - - Calarite Island - . - N.W. Rock North Eock ... Hunter Shoal ... Merope Shoal ... Mangarim Bay, Sandy Tongue - Garza Bay, Garza Island Appo Island ... Menor Island ... Paluan Bay, beach Cape Calavite ... Looc Bay, Lubang Island Fortun Island ... Cabra Island, S.E. extreme Pulo Caliallo lighthouse Cavite Port, Naval head quarters MANILA, N. pier lighthouse ,, Cathedral Capon es Point - - - Port Sual Dile Point Cape Bojeador ... Scarborough Shoal, S.W. extreme Pratas Island, N.E. end „ Reef, N.E. point THE CHINA SEA, WITH ITS ISLANDS AND DANGERS. AxAMBA Islands. White Eock Repon Island Domar Island Guerite high rock - Natuna Islands. Marundum Island - South Haycock Island Serai or West Island Low Island Jackson Eeef North Haycock Island Selu:in Island I'yramidal Rocks Success Reef Si.mione or Saddle Island 11 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 13 13 13 14 13 14 14 14 14 14 16 17 18 30 16 3 10 21 30 24 15 28 40 43 30 20 12 26 39 10 40 23 30 26 43 48 2 45 52 30 22 30 23 55 36 24 36 3 54 7 20 34 30 30 1.5 6 44 20 42 30 20 47 2 20 2 25 2 45 3 29 119 39 33 119 47 119 48 119 53 30 119 52 120 1 30 120 13 10 120 17 121 2 8 121 10 50 120 26 10 120 28 120 29 18 120 18 120 16 120 28 34 120 2 30 120 36 120 54 54 120 57 20 120 58 8 120 3 120 2 44 Spanish Surveys to 1871. Belcher. Various. Bate. Various. Belcher. Villaviciencio. Various. 120 20 30 120 34 117 44 3 116 43 22 116 53 105 34 105 52 105 25 106 12 20 586 587 587 587 588 588 588 588 589 589 590 590 591 592 592 594 593 596 598 598 „ 598 601 K.'M.S.Mafficienne, 603 Various. 604 605 Wilds&Stanley. ' 606 Richards. ■ 606 606 Various. 2 4 109 7 20 2 17 108 55 15 2 40 108 35 3 107 48 2 56 107 55 3 17 107 34 30 4 9 107 50 4 3 107 21 45 4 22 107 55 4 31 lf7 42 30 610 611 611 612 614 614 616 616 616 618 619 619 620 620 XXVIU TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Authorities. Eastern Side of Main Route. Vanguard Bank, S.W. extreme Grainger Bank, centre Prince Consort Bank, S.W. extreme Prince of Wales Bank, centre Alexandra Bank, 3-fathoms patch ]iifleman Bank, 11 -feet patch, N.E. end Ladd Beef, East extreme Spratlj' Island, centre West London Reef, Sandy cay Central London Reef, centre - East London Reef, East end - Cuarteron Reef, East extreme Fiery Cross or X.W. Invcbtigator Reef, S.W. end - - - Discovery Great Reef, South end „ Small Reef Western or Flora Temple Reef, centre - Tizard Bank, Outer edge of West Reef - Itu Aba Island ... ,, Eldad Reef, N. extreme „ S.W. extreme, Gaven Reefs - Loai-ta or South Island, K.W. extreme - Soubie Reef, S.W. end Thi-tu Island, tree on S.W. end Trident Shoal, centre of patch at North extreme ... Lys Shoal, 17-feet patch J^orth Danger Reef, tree on N.E. cay - Main Route. Charlotte Bank, 8 fathoms Scawfell Shoal . . - Banda Shoal ... Jjarge Island of Pulo Condure Group, Landing-place in Great Bay Brothers Islands, West Island Royal Bi.'.hop Bank, 10 fathoms Raglan Bank ... Pulo Sapatu, summit Julia Shoal ... Great Catwick Island Little Cat wick Island, summit Yusun Shoal ... Pulo Cticer de Mer, S.W. hill Holland Bank, centre patch - Paracel Islands and Reefs — Triton Island ... Bombay Shoal, S.W. extreme l*yraniid Rock . . _ Lincoln Island, S.E. point - Passoo Keah Island Discovery Shoal, West extreme Vuliddore Shoal, centre ()b.«ervation Bank Amphitrite I.slands, E. extreme of reef Woody Island ... Rocky Island - . . Korth Shoal, East extreme - 7 16 30 7 47 4.5 7 46 8 8 30 8 I 30 7 55 20 8 40 15 8 38 8 52 8 55 30 8 49 38 8 50 54 9 32 10 42 10 I 30 10 15 10 13 20 10 22 25 10 23 10 13 20 10 40 45 10 53 30 11 3 9 11 31 30 11 19 40 11 28 7 7 15 7 19 8 8 40 57 8 34 9 40 24 58 23 56 30 2 56 59 30 10 16 10 32 36 10 39 15 46 15 59 16 34 16 39 34 16 6 16 11 40 16 18 16 36 16 54 16 50 30 16 52 17 6 30 109 26 110 29 109 55 110 32 30 110 36 45 111 42 111 41 111 54 30 112 14 45 112 20 112 37 26 112 49 34 112 53 113 51 114 1 113 37 114 13 114 21 114 42 114 13 114 24 54 114 4 114 16 25 114 39 15 114 34 24 114 20 45 107 37 15 106 51 107 106 36 106 11 108 14 109 26 109 109 108 1(19 109 9 55 3 2 108 56 30 108 43 111 11 112 26 112 36 112 44 111 46 111 33 112 2 111 40 30 112 22 112 19 112 19 30 111 32 30 Ward. Reed. Ward. Reed. Thompson. Banda, 1871. Wilds k Reed. Various. Reed. Jaclmel, 1875. Reed. Ross, AVard. Ross. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. North. Authorities. SI. Esprit Shoal, centre Helen Shoal, centre Shoals in Palawan Passage. South Lugonia Shoals, Luconia Breakers North „ Seahorse Breakers „ „ N. part of Friend- ship Shoal . . . Louisa Shoal, S.W. rock Vernon Bank, centre of Fuiy Rocks „ 2|-fathom8 patch Samarans: Bank, centre Saracen Bank, centre Koj'al Charlotte Shoal Viper Shoal, doubtful North Viper Shoal, South end Commodore Reef, centre On the Western Side. Half-Moon Shoal, Inclined rock on East side - - . . Ro3-al Captain Shoal, Observation Rock, at North extreme Bombay Shoal, Madagascar Rock, on N.E. extreme ... Carnatic Shoal, centre On the Eastern Side. Herefordshire Shoal, centre - Scaleby Castle Shoal, centre - York I3reakers, centre Crescent Reef, centre Shoals West of Palawan Route. Owen Shoal Amboyna Cay Lizzie Webber Shoal Stags Shoal, doubtful Pearson Reef Swallow Reef, eastern high rock Dallas Breakers Ardasier, South Breakers Gloucester Breakers Ardasier Breakers Investigator Shoal, West point Cay Marino (?) Amy Douglas Shoal Fairy Queen Shoal - Coral Bank, 12 fathoms Routh Shoal, North extreme - Seahorse, North extreme Saudy Shoal Templer Bank, centre 19 33 19 12 5 3 24 5 31 o 59 30 19 45 43 30 49 20 35 15 7 30 57 o 30 o 59 o 8 20 30 8 51 45 9 I 45 9 26 7 [o 6 o 8 35 o 950 9 53 30 10 40 o 880 7 51 45 840 8 24 o 8 56 o 23 o 38 o 34 o 50 o 56 o 850 8 30 o 10 52 o 10 39 o 11 26 o 10 50 o 10 50 o 11 2 O II 7 o 133 2 O "3 53 39 tI2 41 36 112 34 O 112 31 30 113 18 30 "5 2 15 "5 5 50 "4 53 45 115 20 30 "3 35 15 115 o o 115 23 o 115 25 o 116 16 45 116 39 36 116 56 4 117 21 o 116 59 19 117 17 II 118 8 26 118 42 26 I" 59 "2 55 113 12 "2 57 "3 44 113 50 "3 54 114 9 114 15 114 2 114 31 114 21 116 25 "7 38 "6 53 117 46 117 46 "7 37 117 13 Reed. Bate. Reed. Richards. Horsburgh. Various. Bate. Horsburgh. Bate. Various. Ward. Chart. Horsburgh. Pearson. Reed. Dallas. Various. Doubtful. Crawford. .. (•) Pensberry, Chart. Reed. Reed. Chart. Templer. TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL TOSITIONS. Lat. South. JAVA AND THE JAVA SEA. JAVA, NoETH Coast. !St. Nicholas Point, extreme - Pulo Panjang, N.W. Point - Ponlang Point, North extreme Pulo Babi, centre - - - Bantam, flagstaff of fort Menschen-eter Id., Lighthouse proposed Ontong Java, extreme of point Onrust Island, flagstaff Great Kombuvs, bright It. on N.W. pt.- BATAVIA, Observatory and Timeball - Krawang Point, extreme Pamanoekan Point, extreme - Indramayoe Point, North extreme Eackit or Boompjes Island, lighthouse - Cape Tanna - - - Cheribon, lighthouse Cheribon Peak, summit 10,323 ft. Tegal Peak, summit 1 1 ,300 ft. Tegal, flagstaff of fort Pekalongan, lighthouse West of entrance Samarang, flagstaff - lapara Koad, anchorage Karimon Java Island, settlement on Great Karimon . - - Kembang, flagstaff - - - Panka Point, flagstaff Soerabaya Strait, Lightvessel at N. end Kresik, light on pier-head Soerabay;i Strait, Fort Krfprins Soerabaya, Marine Establishment, time- ball . . - . Madura Island, Wodon or N.W. point - „ East point Bawean or Lubeck Island, Alang Alang, or S.W. point . . - Milton Rock Hastings Rock . . - Nahmen's or Osterling Rock - Arrogant Reef . - . Giliang or Pondi Island, East point iSapoedie Island, West point - Gili Lawak, or Turtle Island, centre Sumanap, flagstaff - - - Kangeang Island, Katapan or N.W. pt. Kamirian or Urk Island, centre Karang Takat Bank, N.W. dry Bank - Kambing or Bukken Island, centre Koko Reef, Lighthouse Katapang or Krabbrn Island, centre Proliolingo, flai;staff Mount Lamoiigan or Belierang, 6,824 ft. Bezoekie, flagstaff - - - Mount Ringit . . - Panarukan, flagstaff Cape Tjina, North extreme Capo Sedano, N.E. Point of Java Meinders Droogte, Lighthouse 52 33 55 30 56 50 48 45 1 39 57 42 3 2 2 20 55 30 8 o 57 o 12 o 12 30 54 o 30 o 45 30 54 o 13 30 54 o 54 30 57 20 32 30 53 30 40 30 54 o 57 o 9 30 Long. East. 7 15 20 6 55 40 6 59 o 54 o 44 o 7 o 33 o 12 o 59 o 5 20 12 20 2 30 50 30 4 15 o o 19 36 28 o 41 o 43 30 o 30 43 45 44 20 43 30 38 o 49 o 41 30 06 2 10 06 7 32 06 16 o 06 16 o 06 8 48 06 30 25 06 40 20 06 43 40 06 34 30 06 48 7 07 I 7 07 45 30 08 17 37 08 20 o 08 31 30 08 34 30 08 24 30 09 13 3 09 8 7 09 39 o o 24 37 o 37 30 28 o 1 29 o 2 33 o 2 40 o 2 39 15 2 36 9 2 43 30 2 48 39 4 7 33 2 39 10 2 33 o 2 32 o 2 28 o 2 55 o Authorities. Page 4 4 4 3 5 12 5 " 4 57 >7 30 3 o 55 o 12 40 7 30 16 10 12 36 20 o 38 o 51 o 53 32 I 30 26 53 22 30 Staring. Escher, &c. MelviU V. Cambee Escher, &c. Chart. Staring. Chart. Various. Staring, &c. 165 672 674 672 673 674 679 679 681 684 688 689 690 690 691 691 691 691 691 692 693 694 694 696 696 697 701 696 703 704 705 "04 S S. Milton, 18751 705 Chart. Jansen. >) Fokke. Chart Osterling. I H.IM.S. Arrogant Fokke. Lockemeijer. Fokke. Gregory. Fokke. Chart. Fokke. Chart. Junghun. Fokke. Rietveld. Chart. 705 705 705 705 706 706 707 708 709 709 713 713 715 715 715 715 715 716 716 717 718 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. South. Long. East. Authorities. Page Java, South Coast. o , „ • , // South Point, extreme 8 47 o "4 25 13 Escher. 719 Barung Island, L;ibuan or South point - 8 32 o "3 15 39 719 Dampar Bay, South point 8 18 113 11 )> 720 Sempoe Island, West point - 8 28 30 112 39 )) 720 Boemhoen Bay, Pakis Point - 8 18 I" 53 30 yy 721 Gemah Bay, Popoh villaoje 8 15 4c 1 1 1 48 721 Soemhreng Bay, Sroyoe Island 8 20 111 34 99 721 Pangoel Bay, Government storehouse - 8 15 III 31 Rietveld. 722 Paijitan Bay, c<:^ntie 8 15 III 3 99 722 Wedie Hombo Bay, South Point 8 12 119 39 723 Baglen or Mee;anties Point, centre head 7 45 40 109 24 Perez. 723 Kambangan Island, Karang Bollong or East point, Lilolo anchorage ,, S.W. point . - „ S.E. point, white rock "Wetter Island, Honden Island ofl X.W. point - - - - 8 21 o ; I2J 9 30 Kingdom. 771 8 19 30 1 121 42 Dutch Charts. 771 860 IJ2 8 »> 771 8 19 25 122 19 30 »» 771 8 23 122 30 » 771 8 20 122 59 II 771 8 4 45 ' 122 52 )i 771 7 48 39 122 17 II 771 7 25 122 30 1 772 7 24 '2 1 45 >i 772 7 27 40 12 1 43 30 II 772 7 16 120 48 II 773 7 20 13 121 2 20 II 773 7 5 120 57 30 II 773 1 7 S 120 48 20 II 773 7 2 30 120 3r 30 »i 773 6 46 120 47 30 >i 773 6 40 120 12 30 )i 773 8 45 119 49 II 774 1 8 49 "9 55 II 774 8 52 30 120 12 10 „ 774 8 54 121 II 775 8 50 121 12 )i 775 8 56 121 20 II 775 8 52 121 39 )> 775 8 55 121 41 11 775 8 48 122 4 ,, 775 8 32 122 46 >} 775 10 6 120 51 II 775 9 35 120 30 776 9 36 120 16 „ 776 9 21 "9 45 II 776 9 40 118 59 11 776 10 19 120 30 II 776 j 10 29 121 46 ,, 777 10 49 121 16 ,. 777 8 40 122 51 )i 777 8 19 30 122 58 30 II 778 8 8 3c 123 I ; „ 779 7 48 123 33 II 779 8 26 123 8 30 '1 779 8 27 123 3 30 II 779 8 20 30 123 15 >i 779 1 8 33 123 22 -2 8 12 i .'24 23 01 ,, 782 8 25 124 18 j ,j 782 8 21 125 14 1 '. 782 7 41 126 782 XXSIV TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. 1 I.at. South. Long. East. Authorities. Page Wetter Island, East point "7 45 126 47 Dutch Charts. 782 „ Sauw village on S. coast - 7 56 126 24 }y 783 Liban Island, stimmit 8 5 125 46 30 ]> 783 Kamliing Island, S.W. point - 8 19 30 125 33 784 Kissa Island, anch. on \V. side 8 6 40 127 9 )9 784 Roma or Teralta Island, West point 7 38 127 19 784 Timor. Oijsma or S.W. point 10 20 123 26 De Vrieze. 784 „ Samao Island, West point 10 14 123 16 30 j^ 785 „ Koepang, Fort Concordia flag- staff .... ID 10 123 35 jj 785 „ Pakoela Point, low extreme 10 2 123 34 30 yf 786 ,, Selama peak, summit 9 57 123 39 30 99 786 Rotti Island, W. point 10 46 122 52 >» 787 „ Cj'rus Harbour - 10 53 123 5 15 Spratley. 788 „ Baa Koad 10 43 123 I 40 Dutch charts. 788 Timor Xorth Coast, Gomok Point 9 27 123 46 30 yy 788 „ Gula or Goela Island - 9 15 124 789 „ Liefou, Portuguese settlement 9 " 124 25 D'Entrecasteaux. 789 „ Atapopa,, Dutch settlement 9 124 50 Baars. 789 „ Gedeh, Portuguese settl;ment 8 57 124 55 9> 789 „ Dielli, Portuguese settlement flag- staff 8 34 125 37 Kolff. 789 „ Mantotte, village 8 30 125 58 Dutch chart. 791 ,, Cape Jackee, N.E. point 8 20 127 II Edeling. 791 ,, Nusa Besie or Jackee Island 8 25 127 18 ^ 791 Gunong Api, summit of volcano 6 43 126 43 i> 792 ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EAST- WARD OF BORNEO. Strait of Makassak. Two Brothers - . . 4 19 30 116 12 30 Chart. 794 Bira Birakan Islands, N. extreme 4 6 1 16 16 J 794 Pulo Sebuku, North end 3 ^2 116 27 jy 794 Paniantyngan Point 3 12 116 15 794 Pulo Laut, Pulo Kungit off South point 4 6 20 116 40 Dutch chart. 794 Dwaalder Island, E. side 4 15 116 10 30 794 I'hree Alike Islands, centre - 3 39 116 39 30 795 Sibbald Bank, 5 fathoms 5 46 117 30 Forbes, &g. 795 Aurora Bank, 4£ fathoms 5 25 116 58 )9 795 Nusa Komba, centre 5 14 117 4 Chart. 795 Pudsc-y Dawson, 4i fathoms - 4 42 117 40 -796 Laurel Reef, 2\ fathoms patch 4 30 117 8 796 Martaban Shoal - . . 4 " 117 10 796 Sea Serpent Shoal - - . 3 56 117 28 117 29 40 796 Bank, dries ... 3 31 50 » 796 Bank - - . . 3 34 "7 37 30 >» 796 Bank - - . . Twee Vrienden Reef 3 38 3 40 "7 35 ii7 8 Vrienden, 1876. 796 796 Franklin Bank - . . 3 2 117 33 Chart. 796 Triangles, southern 3 5 6 2 117 50 118 14 796 Laars Bank, S. end - - . " 796 Saflana or Dewakan Island - 5 26 118 25 118 35 1 118 53 1 16 32 I 796 Tonyn Island or Benkoeloean- 5 31 6 8 2 32 i 797 Brill Shoal Shoal Point or Tanjong Iklirra 1 797 798 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. South. Long. East. Authorities. Page Eairged Point or Tanjons;: Aris 2 'S 30 , « 116 37 Chart. 798 Little Paternosters, X.E. isle - 2 10 117 48 30 )» 799 N.W. isle 280 i'7 33 » 799 Hannah Shoal . . . 2 18 117 19 799 Pasir or Passier River, entrance I 51 99 799 Jason Reefs, S.E. end I 51 116 57 99 799 N.W. end I 48 30 116 52 99 799 Kiver Koetei, S.W. entrance - I 117 20 99 8U0 „ Tanjong Bayor, E. point of delta .... 45 "7 37 99 800 Bontheim, on South coast of Celehes 5 32 119 54 802 Klambang Point, Cape Bulo Bulo 5 42 119 41 802 Point Laykan, S.W. point of Celebes - 5 36 119 26 Sir E. Belcher. 803 Makas-sar, Ft. Rotterdam, North angle 5 8 9 119 21 18 99 803 Spermonde Archipelago, Kapo Posang Island or West Island 4 43 "8 55 Chart. 805 Teignmouth Bank - - - 4 56 118 35 30 9> 80-5 Pareh Pareh Ba}-, village 410 119 34 8ll'5 Balanipa, village . . - 3 29 119 2 30 99 806 Cape Mandhar, West extreme 3 34 118 54 806 Penamhoeang, village 3 28 118 52 30 806 Cape William . . - 2 40 1 1 8 47 ,, 806 Palos Bay, village at the head 57 North. 119 47 30 Van Loo, &c. 806 Cape Temoel or Samsa 000 1^9 35 30 Chart. 807 Seven Islands, North Watcher 34 119 43 30 99 807 Cape Donda ... 58 30 120 13 30 „ 807 Cape Kaniongan, E. point of Borneo 140 118 56 )» 807 Island of Celebes. Cape Rivers, N.E. Cape, Slime Islet I 20 120 43 30 Sir E. Belcher. 809 Cape Kandi - - I 20 121 25 Chart. 810 Bwool, anchorage ... I 10 121 24 ,, 810 Kwandang Bay, village in S.E. part 52 122 44 30 810 Lombok Bay, Maririe Point - I I 124 9 ,, 811 Manado, Fort Amsterdam I 29 25 124 46 30 99 811 Mount Klobat, summit 631.T feet I 27 9 125 811 North Cape or Papalumpongang I 46 124 56 „ 812 Limbe Island, North point I 35 125 15 ,, 812 Kema, Fort ... I 21 125 I 30 ,, 812 Cape Flesko, extreme 27 124 26 Jlelvill V. Cambee 812 Cape Tolo, extreme 15 123 50 » 812 Gorontalo, entrance of river - 25 South. 122 50 99 812 Togean Isles, Great Wallah, N. point - 14 122 13 ,, 813 Cape Talabo, East end 46 123 27 „ 813 Cape Nederburg ... 2 53 122 16 19 813 Wowoni or Weywon^i Island, N. point 3 58 123 99 813 Kendari or Vosraaer Baj', entrance 3 57 122 32 9' 813 Boeton or Bulon Island, North point - 4 23 30 123 4 99 813 „ „ East point 5 15 123 16 99 813 „ Siumpu or South Id, S.W. point 5 41 20 122 26 30 „ 814 „ Bolio or Boeton 5 28 122 36 „ 814 Moena or iluna Island, C. Willa, or S.W. point 5 23 122 15 >« 816 Kabeina Island, peak 4,000 feet 5 19 30 121 53 99 815 Cape Lassa or Berak, extreme 5 35 120 29 Sir J. Brooke. 815 Point Patiro, extreme 4 38 120 27 ,, 816 Cape Marasauga or Siw i 3 4S 120 26 99 816 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Beraoe or Burn, head of Gulf of Boni - Cape Bunffiiifi; Kaito Mansfield Shoal, centre 3 fathoms Salayar Island, North point - „ South pi lint - Tiger Islands, Ptrch Islaml at E, end - Postilion Island, Noitli Island „ S.K. Island - „ S.W. Islands, Maria Reiiiersbergen Islands Pulo Tenga or Paternoster Ids., South Ids. or Maria Heinersberuen Ids. „ Ardassier Islands, South one .„ N.E. Paternosters, North one Molucca Islani>s. Xulla Isles— Taliabo, N."W. point - „ Mangola, S.E. point „ Lisainatula, E point „ Besi, S.E point ,, ,, Sannana Bay, fort Bouro Island, Bulatetio or N.W. Cape - „ Cayeli Bay, Fort Dei'ansie ,, P."la or Ea-t point „ Arnblau Island, E. point - „ Pekka or South point Manipa Island, centre Amboina Island, Wawolle or W. point - ,, Amboina, Fort Victoria Haruku, S."W. point Saparoea, Melano Id., off S.W. point - „ Fort Duurstede Banda Ids., Gunong Api summit 2200 ft. „ Great Banda, N.E. point - ,, Neira, Fort Nassau „ Rosengain or Kozagin, centr „ Way or Ai, centre ,, Khun or Rung, S. point Token Bessi Ids., Wangi- Wangi, N.W. point - - - - „ Binongko, South point „ St. Matthew Id., centre - ,, Veldhoen, centre Hegadis Island, Lagu Rocks, off S. pt. - Lucipara Islands, North iglet Gunong Api ... Roma Island, West point „ Serussa anchorage Letti Island, West point ,, Anch(;ra!ie on N. side Moa Island, Buflalo Peak, 4,100 feet - Strraatta Island, N.E. point - Damma Island, Kulewatta Harbour, JSorih point . - - Nila Island, centre - - . Maiio or Bird Island, centre - Tenimher Islands, Timor Laut, Oliliet on East coast - . . )j tt S. point 7 3° 7 5° 1 35 6 35 I 44 o I 55 3° 1 50 o 2 28 o 7 ° 22 49 23 o 52 o 53 o 17 o 3 44 30 3 41 30 39 o 40 o 35 50 3> o 30 30 32 o 34 o 32 o 36 o 15 o 17 o 20 o 58 o 9 ° 28 30 43 o 38 o 42 o 5 14 20 8 10 15 8120 8 14 o 730 6 44 o 5 33 o 7 55 o 8 18 45 120 40 30 121 45 O 120 13 O 120 30 o 120 28 30 J22 15 Q 118 43 O 119 10 O 107 56 o 117 5 o 117 22 o 118 17 o 122 20 126 14 126 29 126 I 125 57 126 4 127 6 127 17 o 127 17 o 126 39 o 127 34 o 127 54 30 128 10 18 128 25 o 128 36 o 128 38 18 129 53 o 129 56 30 129 52 50 130 2 30 129 46 20 129 43 o 27 Sir J. Brooke. Chart. Brennivala. Chart. Sir E. Belcher. Chart. Sir E. Belcher. Chart. Melvill V. Carnbee Chart. 123 32 o 123 59 o 124 14 o 124 46 o 122 38 O 127 30 O 126 43 30 127 19 O 127 39 O 127 36 o 127 41 o 128 I o 129 o o 128 28 o 129 29 o 130 20 o 131 23 30 Owen Stanley, &c, I30 43 Dutch chart. Chart. Owen Stanley. Chart. TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXXVll Page ■ Tenimber Islands, Laarat, E. point „ Voniate, 8. point „ Mulu, N. point „ Serra, 8.W. point Arru Islands, N^or or S. Island ,, Dobbo Harbour, point ,, North point Ki Islands, Great Ki, South point „ ,, North point „ Little Ki, Doulan Har. pier Victoria Shoal ? - Lyne'ioch Bank, 7 fathoms - IMoney Shoal - - . Tionfolokker Group, S.W. island Three Brothers. Ta or South Brother - Tello Islands, KanalurorS. Id , summit ,, Bun or N. Id., summit - Tebor Island, N.E. point Matabella Islands, Kukur „ IngHT Goram Isles, Monovolko, E. point „ Goram, tS.E. point Ceram Laut Isles, high tree on western isle .... „ Kilwari Island, town KeflB.ng Isles, E. point Ceram Island, Rozaket or N.E. point - ,,, Waroe or Wharu anch. - „ CapeTalanuru, N.W. ext. „ Bonoa Island, N.E. point ,, Seal orSial Pt., S.W. ext. „ Piero Bay, Kassara Id. - „ Amahai i3ay, Dutch fort - New Guinea, Cape Valsche - ,, Triton Bank „ Providential Bank „ False Ulanata River „ Cape Chanipel or Steen- boom - - . . „ Cape Buru ,, Lakahia Mount „ Cape Perier „ Chasot Island, centre „ Aidutnea Island, centre „ Triton Bay, Port du Bus - ,, Namatotte I.^land „ Wessel Island, S.E. point „ Ariiuna Bay, C. Boucher - „ Cape Kaffoera - ,, Cape Sapey „ Gudin Island, N.W. end - „ Drei Cap Pen'a, Wass Id. „ McCluer Inlet, village at bead - - . . Sabuda Island, S. point Mysole Islami, Efbe Harbour Canary Islands, -western extreme Popa Island, S.E. point Salawati Island, Van Dady or N.W. pt. Batanta Island, Cape Mubo or W. pt. - Waigiu Island, Piapis Harbour 45 18 20 56 16 30 34 42 13 55 10 19 5 47 5 5 6 4 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 56 3 33 3 16 3 19 8 22 6 6 35 4 45 45 28 12 8 30 2 27 30 44 2 23 2 40 2 4 1 50 1 12 59 56 5 132 1 131 55 131 40 130 44 134 24 134 13 35 134 40 132 54 133 10 132 45 11 131 22 130 40 132 47 132 9 131 54 131 58 131 58 131 47 131 50 131 34 131 29 131 30 131 130 68 13J 53 130 56 130 43 128 11 127 59 127 55 128 10 128 56 7 137 40 138 4 137 55 136 18 136 20 30 135 9 134 50 134 31 30 134 17 30 134 134 4 133 57 133 34 133 20 132 47 132 37 132 33 132 4 134 7 131 36 130 12 129 35 129 50 130 36 130 25 130 12 Owen Stanlej' Chart. Owen Stanley, Chart. Owen Stanley, Tiza'rd, 1874, Chart. Stead. Chart. &c. &c. Kolfif. Dutch Chart. Konine:. KoJff, &c. Chart. Forrest. Chart. D'Urville. 841 841 841 841 841 844 842 846 847 847 848 84» 848 8da 850 850 850 850 850 850 ^51 851 851 851 8)2 852 852 8o4 854 854 854 854 85.7- 855 8A.5 85» 856 85& Soft 856 856 ^ 856 856 857 857 857 857 857 857 857 857 858 858 858 859 860 860 861 XXXVIU TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS. Authorities. Waigiu Island, Offak Harbour, entrance ,, Rawak Harbour „ Cape Lamarche, N.E. pt. „ Chabrol Bay, Port BIos- seville . - - - Dampier Island, Bucclench Shoal „ King William Island, West point ,, Pigeon Island, centre - ,, Fowl Isle, centre Obi Major, Pocky or W. point Gomona Island, centre Lukieong or Loyang Island, S. end Gasses Island, S.E. end Kekik Island, East end Boe or Bu Islands, W. end - Gebi or Gebeh Islands, N".W. point „ Fowld., S.pt. - Gagy Island, South point Syang Island, S.E. point Wyang or Vayag Island, West end Ormsbee Shoal, 12 fathoms Halmaheira or Gillolo, South point „ Cape Tabo, E. extr. - „ Canton Packet Reef - „ Ardasier Rock „ Bitjoli or Wassa, Dutch settlement „ Cape Salaway, N.E. point - - - . „ Tanjong Batu Bessao „ Talendang Ids., Dili „ Gillolo village „ Dodingo, village Molucca Islands, Ternata, Fort Oranje - „ Tidore, summit of volcano „ „ N.E. end „ Mareh, W. point „ Motir, summit „ Makkian, Fort Reeburgh Wolf Rock „ Batjan or Batchian, Fort Barneveld - . . ,, S.E. point Bahia Reef, coral - . . Mayor or Mej's Island, North point Tifore Island, N.W. point ISLANDS NORTH OF THE MOLUCCAS. Bajaren Island, summit Tagiilanda Island, peak 5 13 34 39 ,0 43 30 42 30 42 38 30 North. 2 2 South. 8 25 North. 18 11 41 South. 50 North. 11 36 30 45 38 1 26 2 14 2 17 1 10 52 47 39 46 34 28 24 13 South. 37 47 1 10 North. 1 22 30 1 1 130 43 130 57 131 14 130 41 131 21 130 29 130 34 130 42 30 127 18 127 30 128 2 128 14 128 37 129 11 30 129 17 30 129 30 129 54 129 53 129 57 130 128 23 128 52 128 56 30 129 128 20 128 37 127 33 127 33 127 28 127 46 127 21 127 22 30 127 25 127 21 127 23 127 21 126 50 127 25 30 127 52 30 126 50 126 22 126 8 Chart. >j >» » Duperrey. Chart. j> >» >» Dutch Chart. Bethune. 2 7 125 22 Spanish charts, &c 881 2 22 125 24 30 j „ «82 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. XXXIX Seao Island, conical peak Sangir Island, S. poiut, Cape Palumbatu Talaut Islands, Kalnuansr, S.E. point - ,, Karkelansi:, N. point Tulur Islands, Kanian village Meangis Inlands, southern SuLU Archipelago. Tapnl, centre hill - . - Bulipons;pong, centre hill Cuad Basang, S.W. point Bubuan, Lagoon entrance Ketnapoussan Island, centre - Boiijialao, S'uith point Simonor, N.W. point Manuc iManca, M'est point 8ibutu, hill, East coast Borneo, Unsang anchorage Omapiii, N.W. extreme Talantam Bank, 5 fathoms Pearl Bank, western Island - „ East Islet Doc-can, West extreme Sulu Island, Dalrymple Harbour, well on S.E. coast Tulyan Island Pansjituran, S.W. point Basilan Id., Passanhan or Isabela ,, Island, Malusa Sibago Isles ... Teinga Island, centre Sta. Cruz Island, S.E. one Philippine Islands. Mindanao, Cape Panguitan or S. point - „ lUana Bay, Rio Grande, Co- tabatu fort ... „ Port Dumanquilas, entrance ,, Samboanga, pier - „ La Caldera, fort - ,, Santa Cruz Islands, S. point ,, Port Sta. Maria, village at head .... „ Murcielagos Islets, W. point „ Point Taglo, N.^V. point ,, Laguna de Panguil, Misamis, at entrance ... „ Macajalar Bay, Barra de Ca- gayan - - „ Camiguin Island, \Y. point - „ Point Banajan or Bilaan ,, Surinao, landing' place Surigao Islands, Siargao, N.E. point „ Dinigat, N. point Panaon Island, S. point „ Puerto Liloan, E. entr. - Leyte Island, S.W. point „ Tacloban „ Carigara on N. coast Samar Island, Punta Saugui, r Samar - 2 44 3 21 3 49 4 29 3 49 4 39 44 30 41 30 27 10 25 15 13 30 55 30 49 30 49 30 16 30 54 10 42 50 45 50 45 52 30 6 2 30 6 15 15 6 42 45 6 32 50 6 45 6 54 6 52 15 5 36 7 46 8 8 8 43 8 10 8 31 10 9 12 30 9 50 9 48 30 10 4 10 28 9 55 10 10 10 11 16 11 19 10 55 30 125 26 Spanish charts, &c 125 39 127 2 30 15fi 52 127 2 Chart. 127 7 120 55 120 49 45 120 11 30 120 35 120 40 45 119 44 15 119 46 45 119 48 119 24 119 16 119 22 45 119 26 30 119 37 30 119 44 119 Ob 45 121 18 20 120 29 30 121 58 121 52 43 122 24 121 38 122 4 125 21 124 14 30 123 4 122 4 121 58 122 4 30 122 7 30 122 26 123 22 30 123 49 124 45 124 37 125 25 125 29 126 3 125 38 125 17 125 8 125 1 124 59 124 41 125 52 Chimmo, 1871-2 Spanish charts. La Sabine, 1844. Spanish charts. Wild Rover, 1870 Spanish charts. Spanish charts. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Lat. North. LonR. East. Authorities. Page o ^^ „ ,1 Samar Island, Point Binusfayan 12 12 125 33 » 902 ,, C.Espiritu Santo, N.E. end 12 32 30 125 13 30 » 902 „ Puerto de Palapa, S.E. pt. of Batag Island - - - 12 37 20 125 4 » 902 „ Bulicuatro Isles, N.W. pt. of Viri - - - - 12 43 124 23 y. 902 St. Bernardino Island, East entrance of Strait - - - - 12 46 124 18 30 yy 904 Capul Island, N. point 12 30 124 10 n 904 Ticao Island, Puerto San Jacinto, fort - 12 35 123 45 904 ilasbate. Point Ciduljuan or S. K. point 11 44 124 5 » 905 „ Put-rto Barreras, Point Lanan 12 33 123 24 9 yy 905 ,, Point Bugui or N.W. point 12 36 123 15 905 Zebu or Oebu Island, Point,Bulalaqu e or N. point ... 11 17 124 4 yy 906 „ Port Zebu, lighthouse on Bacacay Point 10 24 124 1 20 »> 907 ,, Naga coal mines 10 13 30 123 46 9» 907 „ Point Tanon or S. pt. 9 25 124 20 » 907 Bohul Island, N.W. point 10 9 1J4 10 » 908 Siquijor Island, N. point 9 18 30 123 37 30 H 908 Negros Island, Bombonon or S. point - 9 3 30 123 6 ff 908 „ Himamajlan, on VV. coast 10 7 122 52 908 ,, Bacolot, village 10 43 122 57 »9 908 Bnrias, Busin Harbour, San Jose Id. - 13 9 122 57 }> 908 Panaj', Punta Bulacaue or N.E. point - 11 36 30 123 8 9) 909 „ Silanga Islands, North Gigante, N. point ... 11 39 123 22 9t 909 „ Pan de Azucar, summit 11 17 123 10 (1 )» 910 „ Ilo Ilo, fort 10 43 122 36 910 „ Nugas Island, off S.W. pt. 10 24 40 121 54 99 915 ,, San Jose_de. Buenaventura 10 45 121 55 30 9> 915 „ Point Naisog, or N.W. point 11 53 30 121 62 20 >l 915 SuLU Sea. Sandakan Harbour, Bahalatolis Island - 5 50 118 11 »> 917 Cagayan de Sulu, entrance of basin 6 58 5 118 29 yy 918 ,, Sulu, observation spot, middle West coast ... 7 38 118 26 6 Chimmo, 1871. 918 San Miguel Isles, East point of Manuk ISIanukan ... 7 43 118 27 Spanish charts. 920 Ca-ayancs Islands, Observatory between the islands ... 9 35 30 121 23 30 >> 921 Caueli or Cavilli, N.W. point 9 14 120 52 30 99 922 Sombrero Rock ... 10 43 121 33 99 923 Pi^dra Blanca ... 10 27 121 3 99 922 MinUoro Island, Cape Calavite, N.W. pt. 13 26 120 18 99 924 ,, Abra lie Hog - 13 26 20 120 46 99 924 „ Calapan 13 25 30 121 10 30 924 ,, Punta Buruncan or S. pt. 12 13 121 14 30 99 924 Sibuyan Island, South point - 12 17 122 38 30 99 924 „ West point - 12 27 122 26 30 99 924 Rombloii Island, light on N.E. point 12 36 30 122 18 99 924 Marinduque Island, Ele'ante,i^off S. pt. - 13 11 30 122 925 Luzon, S., E., and N. Coasts, Cape San- tiago .... 13 45 40 120 40 Montero, Spanish 926 „ Balayan ... 13 56 120 44 Surveys, &c. 927 ,, Batanufaa ... 13 45 121 3 40 99 927 ,, Veide Island, N.W. point 13 34 121 2 20 927 „ Point Bantigui 13 41 16 121 27 40 99 927 TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. xli Lat. North. Authorities. Luzon, L.ig-iimmanoc, entrance „ Bondog Head „ Tamba Point „ Sorsogon - - . „ Calintan Island „ Ungay Point „ Catanduanes Island, S.E. point - j» „ N. point „ Matandumaten Island „ Calagnas Isles, Cacbalisay Id., East end . . . ,, Lamon Bay, Gumaca ,, Polillo Island, peak - „ Cape San Ildefonso - „ Paranan Bay, South pt. „ Yligan Point „ Cape Engano „ Pt. San Vincente, entrance „ River Cagayan, entrance „ Pamplona Bar „ Pt. Djalao - - - „ Cape Bojeador Babuyan Islands, Dalupiri Id., N. point „ Calayan Island, N.E. pt. „ Claro Island, W. point - ,, Camiguin Island, Port Pio v., entrance - - - „ Bashi or Batan Islands, Balintang Island (P.D.) ,, Batan Island, Mt. Irada, 3,806 ft. Kosa - S.w'.'point Ibayat Island, Mt. Santa Y'Ami Island, islet off CHINA. Hainan to Hong Kong. Now Chow Island, West point Ty-fung-kyoh Island Pauk Pyah Rock - Song-yui Point . . . Mamee-chow Islets, S.W. pt. of W. islet Tyoa Point ... Mandarins Cap ... Hawcheim Island, S.W. point Namoa Harbour, entrance Wycaup Island, S.E. part Cou-cok Island, Sail Rock off S. point . Canton Rivers. San Chow Island, Stragglers off S.E. pt. Montanha Id., Water Ii^lands off S. pt. - Macao, Fort Guia, lighthouse Great Ladrorie Island, S.W. point Hong Kong to River Min. Hong Kong, Wellington Battery „ Cathedral I. A. 13 53 13 10 13 30 13 30 12 31 20 13 10 40 13 31 40 14 8 10 14 18 30 30 30 14 25 40 13 57 45 14 56 16 4 17 9 18 20 18 34 30 18 30 18 23 18 30 18 37 40 18 29 30 19 9 30 19 22 19 30 18 53 19 58 30 20 28 30 20 48 21 4 56 20 59 21 24 30 21 24 15 21 32 21 34 21 44 21 29 21 35 21 36 21 34 21 50 22 22 3 30 22 12 21 55 25 22 16 23 22 16 23 121 49 122 36 123 19 123 59 30 124 5 124 9 20 124 21 124 13 40 123 5 30 122 57 30 121 54 45 121 58 121 46 122 28 122 18 122 5 40 122 6 121 35 121 22 120 48 120 34 20 121 13 121 32 121 52 121 48 122 14 122 1 20 Montero, Spanish surveys, etc. 121 52 30 121 58 24 110 38 111 10 30 111 15 25 111 38 30 111 47 112 14 112 21 30 112 33 112 35 112 54 113 7 30 113 24 50 113 30 113 33 30 113 42 114 10 2 114 9 37 Chart. Domville. Belcher, 1841. / xlii TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. Authorities. Ninppin Rock . . - Single Island, East summit - Tuni-ang Island, summit Mendoza Island, summit Pedro Blanco Rock, summit - Pauk Piah Rock, summit Chino Peak, summit Cupchi Point, hill on it Breaker Point ... Cape of Good Hope Swatow, Double Island Brothers Islets, S.E. islet Tongsang Harbour, Fall Peak Chapel Island, light Tsing Seu Island, lighthouse - Amoy, Hanseu Island Pagoda High Laniock, light Chin-chu Harbour, Pisai Lsland P3'ramid Point . . . Sorrel Rock . . - Ockseu Islands, western island, lightho. Lam-yit Island, high cone peak Hungwha Channel, Sentry Island Hai-tan Island, Kiangshan Peak Turnabout Island, summit, light Middle Dog Island, light Formosa, Pescadores, Etc. Gadd Rock Yele Rete Rocks - " - Botel Tobago sima. South extreme Little Tobago sima ... Formosa Island, South cape - „ Sau-o Bay, Obs. spot - „ Samasana Island .,, Takau, Saracen Head - „ Port Heonffsan „ Tam-sui Har., "White fort .... ,, Foki Point - „ Ke-lung Harbour, Ob- servation spot ... Hoa-pin-su Island, North face Raleigh Rock ... Meiaco-sima Group, Kumi Id., N. beach „ Broughton Bay, landing place „ Port Haddington, Hamilton Point . . - - ., Tai-pin-san, S.W. Bay Pescadores Islands, Makung Harbour, 2nd point on N. side of harbour „ Fisher Id., light - River Mix to Shaxghai. River Min, Temple Point Alligator Island, summit Tung-ying Island, peak Cony Lsland, summit Double Peak Island, highest peak Pih-seang Islands, Town Island Dangerous Rock, summit Tae Islands, easternmost 22 15 45 22 24 6 22 27 6 22 30 42 22 18 30 22 32 54 22 44 24 22 48 7 22 56 23 14 23 20 23 32 30 23 47 15 24 10 18 24 22 15 24 28 20 23 15 24 49 24 52 25 2 24 59 25 12 25 16 30 25 36 18 25 26 25 58 20 21 43 10 21 45 30 22 1 40 21 57 30 21 55 24 35 28 22 41 22 36 14 24 46 25 10 24 25 19 25 8 25 25 47 7 25 35 24 26 24 21 30 24 25 24 43 35 23 32 54 23 33 26 8 26 26 9 26 23 12 26 30 26 36 6 26 42 30 26 53 26 59 12 o , /, 114 22 7 114 39 12 114 36 45 114 50 115 6 54 115 I 115 46 50 116 4 26 llfi 27 45 116 47 116 43 20 117 42 117 36 48 118 13 30 118 7 118 3 117 17 30 118 41 118 58 119 10 36 119 27 30 119 35 119 45 119 50 42 119 58 42 120 2 30 121 37 120 48 40 121 39 45 121 40 30 120 50 30 121 49 27 121 28 120 16 33 120 55 121 25 121 37 121 45 30 123 30 31 124 35 122 56 124 17 40 124 6 40 125 17 49 119 30 12 119 28 119 37 42 120 26 120 31 120 10 120 U 12 120 22 42 120 34 18 120 43 48 CoUinson, 1845, Ross, 1817, and Brooker, 1866. Beechy, 1826. Wilda, 1865. Brooker, 1867. Collinson, 1845. Richards, 1855. Biooker, 1866. Brooker, 1867. Colhnson, 1845. Belcher, 1845. Bullock, 1866. Belcher, 1845. Collinson, 1845. Richards, 1854. Collinson, 1845. TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS. zliii Ping-fong Island, summit Pih-quan Peak, summit Nam-quam Harbour. Bate Island Port Isamki, eastern horn Pih-ki-shan Island, summit - ToDg--wbang Group, Coin Island Pe-shan Island, summit Soudan Islet, summit Chikkok Island, summit Tai-chau Group, Hea-chu Islet Chuh-seu Island, summit Tung-chuh Island, summit - Hieshan Islands, southernmost Montagu Island, X.E. point - Kweshan Islands, Patahecock Mouse Kock, summit Buffidoes Nose Island, high part Nimrod Sound, Middle Island Chukea Island, peak Tongting Islet, summit Chusan Id., Obs. spot, Tinghai West Volcano Island, light on summit - Just-in-the-way Islet, summit Yung Paver, Chin-hai citadel „ Square Island light „ Pas-yew light - Video Island, summit Barren Isles, centre Saddle Group, North island light Cairnsmore hock . - . Gutzlaff Island, light on summit Chapu, battery . . . Shaweishan Island, light on summit Entrance of river, Tungsha bank light- vessel - - - . "Wusung River, Fort A. at entrance Shanghai, British consulate flagstaff - Hankow, Mouth of Han river. Shanghai to the Liautung Gulf. Yellow River, southern entrance "Wang-kia-tai Bay, Lung-wang temple - Shan tung promontory, lighthouse on N. E. extrem3 . . . Miau-tau Group, peak of northern island ,, Hope Sound, Obs. spot Pei Ho, S. Taku Fort, S. Cavalier ,, Tientsin, Observation spot Shaluitien Island, Joss house - Great Wall, sea end Liau Ho, Yingtze pagoda „ New Chwang Lightvessel Hulu Shan Bay, Obs. place (N. side) Port Adams, Entry island Thornton Haven, Observation spot Liau-ti-shan Promontorj-, S.W. point Round Island, summit Blonde Group, Shi-siau Rock Tayang Ho, entrance Qiielpart Island, Mount Auckland Port Ilaiiiihon 9 42 18 48 9 20 18 IS 30 27 27 27 27 26 27 37 27 50 28 .5 28 15 54 28 22 24 28 23 18 28 40 30 28 42 12 28 50 48 29 10 30 29 21 54 29 32 42 29 36 12 29 34 20 29 54 29 51 42 30 25 30 20 25 29 57 42 29 57 8 29 59 22 29 57 43 30 8 30 43 30 50 20 30 42 10 30 47 38 30 36 31 24 30 31 7 40 31 23 30 31 14 42 30 32 61 34 2 35 39 37 24 30 38 23 37 37 56 38 8 16 39 9 38 53 39 58 40 43 12 40 35 39 40 46 39 16 39 4 3S 43 38 40 38 56 39 46 30 33 26 34 1 2a 120 32 42 120 28 42 120 25 50 121 6 36 121 12 18 121 15 121 31 48 121 44 36 121 44 12 121 65 12 121 47 24 121 55 6 122 14 24 122 6 122 13 42 122 13 36 122 1 24 121 43 15 122 25 18 122 35 48 122 5 18 121 51 45 121 54 12 121 43 6 121 45 121 43 50 122 46 123 7 14 122 40 122 34 40 122 10 121 3 122 14 15 122 1 121 30 11 121 28 55 114 19 55 120 10 119 51 30 122 42 120 55 120 40 117 42 117 11 118 32 119 49 122 14 122 121 17 121 35 123 10 121 8 122 11 122 55 123 41 126 35 127 18 Collinson, 1845. Collinson, 1845. Ward, 1858. Wilds, 1864. Collinson, 1845. Wilds, 1864. Shanghai, 1873. Ward, 1859. Shadwell, 1850-8. Ward, 1859. Admiralty Chart Bullock, 1861. Ward, 1860. Bullock, 1860. Ward, 1860. BuUock, 1860. Chart. Richards, 1855. 1065 10G6 1066 1067 1067 1068 1070 1070 1071 1071 1071 1072 1072 1073 1075 1075 1076 1076 1081 1082 1083 1092 1097 1098 1098 1098 1102 1090 1094 1094 1096 1102 1107 1108 1117 1122 1126 1131 1132 1133 1145 1146 1147 1147 1152 1153 1154 1154 1158 1159 1159 1159 1159 1160 1160 1161 1162 xHv TABLE OF GEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS. JAPAN. South and East Coasts. Linschoten Ids., Yoko sima, summit „ Kutsino sima ,, Kuro sima, centre - Satnno Misaki, or Ca^o ChichakoflF Lt. - Ciipe Isa - - - - Cape Muroto . . . Oo Sima Light . - . Matoya I..ight . - . Omae Saki Light - . - Eock Island Lighthouse Yedo Bay. Cape Sagami, litjhthousi „ Katioa saki, lighthouse - „ Yokohama, Naval sick quarters (square) ,, Nosima Point, lighthouse Fatsizio Island, S.E. end Vries Island, S.E. point Inaboye Saki, lighthouse Kingkasan Island, lisjhthouse Yamada Harbour, Ko Sima - Siriya Saki, lighthouse Seto Uchi, or Inland Sea Approaches. Boungo Channel, Euryalus Rock Kii Channel I., Sima, N. end „ Naruto Passage, Su Saki „ „ Tobi Sima „ Okino Sima, W. end ,, Hino Misaki, extreme - „ Siwo Misaki, light „ Isumi Strait, Tomangai light Osaka, Temposan Fort Kobe, landing-place Akashi Strait, Maiko Fort Nabaa Sima, lighthouse Tsura Sima, light - - . Simoneski Strait, Isaki, light - „ Shirasu, lighthouse- West Coast. Goto Islands, Ose Saki Meae Sima, Ears Peak Kagosima Gulf, Yama Gawa - „ Iwo Sima, lighthouse Nagasaki, Minage Point Yebo.si Sima, light - - . Kado Sima, lighthouse Oki Islands, N. point Cape Roiven - _ . Port Niegat I, lighthouse Hakodadi, Kamida creek, entrance Yezo, Akishi Bay - . . „ Nemoro, Benten Sima - „ Iwani Bay - . . ° , II 28 47 30 29 59 30 50 30 58 45 32 44 33 14 33 28 34 22 34 36 30 34 34 20 35 8 34 14 45 35 26 30 34 53 20 33 4 24 34 39 30 35 43 30 38 19 39 27 17 41 26 10 33 2 33 51 45 34 14 56 34 13 50 34 6 50 33 52 45 33 26 34 16 40 34 39 45 34 41 3 34 38 29 34 23 15 33 53 SO 33 58 10 33 59 30 £2 39 30 32 3 31 12 40 32 43 32 44 28 33 41 30 34 21 30 36 30 37 28 37 56 30 41 47 8 43 2 22 43 20 24 43 1 129 1 30 122 55 129 57 130 40 15 133 2 134 11 30 135 52 136 54 30 138 15 10 138 57 10 139 41 139 44 17 139 39 24 139 51 23 139 50 24 139 28 140 53 30 141 36 141 59 141 29 25 132 11 30 134 50 45 134 42 51 134 39 135 5 10 135 4 15 135 46 30 135 30 135 26 35 135 12 15 135 1 59 133 48 45 132 38 131 2 130 48 20 128 35 30 128 25 130 38 43 129 46 129 51 30 129 58 50 130 50 133 23 137 22 139 4 140 43 44 144 51 50 145 34 57 140 4 Various autho rities. Chai't. Japan Lt. -house Board. Jap. It. -ho. Bd. Ward, 1861. Various author. Jap. It. -ho. Bd. Ward, 1860. Jap. It. -ho. Bd. St. John, 1871, Jap. It.-ho. Bd. Chart. Maxwell. Chart. Jap. lt,-ho. Bd. St. John. Maxwell. Jap. It. -ho. Bd. Brooker, 1868. Richards, 1855. Blundell. Jap. It.-ho. Bd. Brooker, 1868. Jap. It.-ho. hd. Richards, 1855. Ward. St. John, 1872. St, John, 1871. 1 Po^^. I OCTOBER, NOVEMBEH. DECE THE INDIAN ARCHITELAGO, ETC. CHAPTEE I. I.— W INDS AND SEASONS. The Great Archipelago, which lies between Asia and Australia, by far the largest of the insular regions of the world, covering, as it does, an area of about six millions of square British miles, has been vaguely termed, by various authorities, the East India Islands — the Asiatic, or Eastern, or Oriental Archipelago, or the Malay Archipelago ; but, following its great historian, Mr. John Crawfurd, we prefer to designate it as the Indian Archipelago, a name, also, by which it is generally recognised. The Equator passes nearly through its centre, and thus much of it lies on the division between the metorological systems of the North and South hemispheres, the general particulars of which have been recounted and de- scribed in our former works. This peculiar physical condition renders the attempt to define the characteristics of its climatology somewhat complicated and difficult. It might be supposed that along this neutral line of separation, under the great cloud-ring, as it has been termed by Captain Maury, that there would be some uniformity of wind and weather. Not so, however, for the relative influences of the vast land of Australia, on the one hand ; those of the con- tinent of Asia on the other ; the direction of the evaporating winds blowing over the Indian Ocean to the West, or over the Pacific Ocean on the eastern side, cause the climate and characteristic weather of the eastern or western portions of the Archipelago to be very difi'erent from each other. For these reasons the changes in the monsoons, the alternation of the wet and dry seasons, in some parts, are very puzzling and difficult of expla- nation ; a fact, also, due in some degree to the want of long series of accurate observations which would be required to elucidate them. 2 WINDS AND SEASONS. A large portion of the islands thus lies in what has been termed the " doldrums " of mid-ocean, and on the line of the maximum rain fall. This latter arises from the trade-winds in passing over the ocean, evaporating so much from the surface, that on their reaching this central line, or before that occurs, the winds become surcharged, and great deposition follows. It will be manifest that the case is altered when the wind has to pass over great breadths of arid land, and thus arises the complication caused by the reversed monsoons. The disturbing e£Pect of land influences on the great aerial currents, is more apparent in the Indian Seas than in any other part of the world. The result is a complete reversal of the N.E. trade, and in a minor degree of the S.E. trade wind, producing the well-known phenomena of the monsoons — winds which blow one-half the year in one direction, and in the other half ia the opposite. In the northern winter, when the sun is South of the Equator, and the great Asiatic continent is cool, the regular N.E. trade-wmd prevails over the whole region North of the Equatorial calms, and is generally known as the North-east Monsoon, which is only liable to local deflection consequent on the direction of the land, its mountains, or the channels which separate the islands. To the South of the equatorial calms, the S.E. trade prevails throughout the season of October to April, when the sun is in southern signs ; and therefore, in the western portion of the area now under consi- sideration, the winds pursue their ordinary courses. But when the sun enters into North latitude, or in the northern summer, and especially about the northern solstice, it is vertical over an immense area of land South of the Himalaya Mountains, the desert regions of Arabia, the burning plains of Western India, countries where the earth is fire, and the wind flame ; and when this intense heat is extended to the southern por- tions of China, the S.E. trade-wind, receiving a northern impulse, follows up the retreating N.E. trade to the foot of the Himalayas, towards the northern tropic, drawn thither by the intense heat of the vertical sun, receiving this northern impulse, and that impulse carrying it into a region of less rotatory velocity than that which it has left, it assumes a relative S. W. direction, and is called the South-west Monsoon. The features and seasons of this wonderful wind have been recounted in our volume on the Indian Ocean, pages 32 — 58 ; and it is there shown that it has a progressive course northward, in its greatest strength, along the African coast, reaching Bombay nearly a month later than it sets in in the commencement. The effects of this S.W. monsoon are felt very far beyond the coasts, upon which its first furies fall in the burst of their commencement. The high temperature it brings advances so far to the North, that over ground per- WIN])S AND SEASONS. .1 petually frozen at the depth of a few feet, the limit of arboreal vegetation extends in Siberia, even to 72° N. latitude. While this deflected S.E. trade-wind, in the form of the S.W. monsoon, North of the Equator, is blowing between May and October, the S.E. trade proper prevails over all that part of the Indian Ocean which is not skirted to the South by large tracts of land. Where this is the case, as in the Java Seas as far as New Guinea, which lie North of the great Australian continent, there is again a double maximum temperature in the sea and the land, and the phenomenon of a N.W. monsoon taking the place of the S.E. trade. The monsoons, therefore, of the Indian Archipelago are not two in number, but are four — the N.E. and S.W. to the North of the equator, and the S.E. and N.W. to the South of the line. To the two first the northern parts of Sumatra, Borneo, and Celebes, the Philippine Islands, and the Malay Pe- ninsula, as well as the whole of the China Sea, are subject. To the two latter the southern parts of the above-named islands, with the range between Java and New Gruinea, and the northern part of Australia, are subjected. There is one natural indication of this superabundant rainfall in the ex- uberant vegetation manifest in most parts of the Archipelago. The greater portion is covered with one vast ever-verdant forest, clothing the land and the mountains from the shore to the summits of their loftiest peaks. In some parts this dense and gloomy jungle is not seen, and in its place are arid hills and plains, scantily covered with shrubs and trees. The naturalist, Mr. Wallace, has well defined these and other characteris- tics, which need not be detailed here. A few words will suflB.ce. Sumatra, New Guinea, Borneo, the Philippines, and the Moluccas, are all forest countries, except a few small and unimportant tracts. To this there is one important exception in the island of Timor, and all the smaller islands opposite, in which there is absolutely no forest, such as exists in the other islands, and their character extends in a lesser degree to Flores, Sumbawa, Lombok, and Bali. f In Timor and the islands between it and Java the vegetation is of the same character as that of Australia. This peculiar character is most pro- bably owing to their proximity to that great continent. The S.E. monsoon which lasts for about two-thirds of the year (from March to November) blowing over the northern parts of that country, produces a degree of heat and dryness which assimilates the vegetation and general aspect of the adja- cent islands to its own. A liitle farther eastward, in Timorlaut and the Ki Islands, a moister climate prevails, the S.E. winds blowing from the Pacific through Torres Straits ; and, as a consequence, every rocky islet is clothed with verdure to its very summit. Farther West, again, as the same winds blow over a wider and wider expanse of ocean, they have time to absorb fresh moisture, and we accordingly find the island of Java posaessiug a less 4 WINDS AND SEASONS. and less arid climate in the dry season, till on the extreme West, near Batavia, rain occurs more or less all the year round, and the mountains are everywhere clothed with forests of unexampled luxuriance. Mr. Wallace continues — Speaking generally, the whole south-western part of the Archipelago, including the whole range of islands from Sumatra to Timor, with the larger half of Borneo, and the southern peninsula of Celebes, have a dry season from April to November, with the S.E. monsoon. This same wind, however, bends round Borneo, becoming the S.W. monsoon in the China Sea, and bringing the rainy season to northern Borneo and the Philippines. In the Moluccas and New Guinea the seasons are most uncertain. In the S.E. monsoon, from April to November, it is often stormy at sea, while on the islands it is very fine weather. There is generally not more than two or three months of dry, hot weather, about August and September. This is the case in the northern extremity of Celebes and in Boruru ; whereas, in Amboyna, July and August are the worst months in the year. In Ternate it is difficult to find out which is the dry and which the wet season. The same is the case at Banda, and a similar uncertainty prevails in Menado, showing, perhaps, that the proximity of active volcanoes has a great dis- turbing meteorological influence. In New Guinea a great amount of rain falls more or less all the year round. On the whole, the only statement that can be made seems to be that the countries within about 3° on each side the equator have much rain, and not very strongly contrasted seasons, while those more South or North in latitude have daily rains during about four months in the year, while for five or six months there is almost a cloudless sky and a continual drought. There is one evidence of the uncertain nature of the aerial currents, and of their varying direction and intensity in the frequent occurrence of water- spouts in some localities, as in the Malacca Straits. These columns of vapour or water, formed by a small vortex, are described at length here- after, as seen in that strait, and are probably in some measure due to the peculiar configuration of the transverse line mountains crossing the normal line of direction of the prevalent winds. These brief, general remarks will suffice to give a notion of the meteorology of the central or equatorial portion of the Indian Archipelago North and South of these limits. The remarks that have been given in the introduc- tory chapter of our Indian Ocean Directory, will be equally applicable to this portion of the world. Storms are of rare occurrence, and typhoons are unknown. They only occur beyond the limits of the equatorial calms, and are seldom felt so far South as the northern part of the Philippine Islands. On the coast of China they are experienced in both monsoons, as further alluded to here- after. MALACCA STEAIT. 5 In the Gulf of Siam, in the China Sea, and on the coast of China, the alternating monsoons prevail. In the Gulf of Siam they are comparatively- feeble and of short duration. Farther to the East and N.E. they are more decided. The S.W. monsoon commences about the middle or end of April in the China Sea, a little after it is felt in the Gulf of Siam and Tongking, and before it reaches the northern part of its area It also lasts longer in the southern part of its course than it does in the northern. It is at its height in June, July, and August. The N.E. monsoon or the bad weather season, sets in in the northern part of the China Sea about the end of Sep- tember or early in October, and lasts till February or March. It sets in "with a burst of stormy weather, lasting about a week or ten days, and is in its strength in November, bringing much rain and a turbulent sea. In a subsequent page a further notice of the monsoons will be found. The ensuing remarks on this branch of our work, derived from various sources, is arranged in a geographical order, as being most convenient for reference. The foregoing introductory portion being sufficient to elucidate the general subject. In them there is necessarily some repetitions. The same topics having to be discussed in each case, necessarily involves this repeated allusion to one subject. MALACCA STRAIT.— Although the Malacca Strait is within the region of the N.E. and S.W. monsoons, yet the winds are very variable within its limits. There are various reasons for this ; the one is, that it lies almost within the limits of the equatorial calms, and therefore the monsoons reach it with diminished force ; another is the high land of Sumatra, which im- pedes the course of the S.W. monsoon, and the N.E. monsoon being the fine season here, the wind is never very strong. The land and sea breezes are regular on the West coast of Malacca, and also on the N.E. coast of Sumatra which limit the Strait. The monsoons are not always regular, except when they are at their height in the sur- rounding seas, and at the same time the winds are only moderate in the channel, and only last a part of the day. The north-east monsoon, which, as before stated, is the fine season, lasts from November to May ; the S.W. monsoon, bringing rain and thunder, generally commences at the end of April or the beginning of May, and ceases in October. In November the winds often come from the West, and during this monsoon the weather is in general cloudy and rainy, especially during the period that it is strongest. In October and November, at the end of the S.W. monsoon, the winds often vary from N.W. to W., but when the monsoon sets in from the N.E. they are regular in November. The winds are very strong till the month of March, but principally during December and January. Sometimes they vary to N. or N.W., and always during the months of the N.E. monsoon the breezes from the West last during one or two days. During the season of the N.E. monsoon the winds 6 WINDS AND SEASONS. vary between the N.N.E. and E.N.E. Towards the end of February and March, and sometimes also in the beginning of April, the breezes from the N.E. veer towards the North, and are light and variable. It is found also that the breezes are interrupted by calms during the middle of the day, but during the night and at sunrise they are fresh. The coast of Malacca is much less subject to calms during this monsoon than that of Sumatra. The south-icest monsoon is at its height in June and July. During the four months from May to September the winds in the Strait blow principally from S.W. to S., that is, when the S.W. monsoon is at its greatest height in the open sea. During this monsoon calms occur on the N.E. coast of Su- matra, but less frequently there than on the coast of Malacca, and they are rarely of long duration. In general it is calm in the middle of the day, and fresh breezes in the night and at sunrise. It is only in the northern part of the Strait of Malacca that the monsoons are regular. During the S.W. monsoon sudden and heavy squalls come off the Sumatra coast, generally during the early part of the night. From their direction they are called Sumatras, and are accompanied by loud thunder and heavy rain. They are probably occasioned by the mountains on the Pedir coast, and blow sometimes for six or eight hours at a time, strongest at their commencement. In Malacca Eoad they generally set in at 7 or 8 p.m., and are at their height at midnight, and have caused many ships to part their cables. The wind does not often come from the N.W., but at times it blows right through to Singapore. They come on very suddenly and violently, but do not last long. They are generally preceded by a black cloudy arch, rising rapidly from the horizon toward the zenith, which only allows sufficient monition to reduce sail as quickly as possible, and should a ship be at an- chor, she should immediately weigh, or the burst of the storm will not allow her to do so. Water Spouts. — In the very excellent and graphic account of the Horsburgh Lighthouse and its erection in the Strait of Malacca, by J. T. Thomson, Esq., F.R.Gr.S., are some interesting remarks on this curious phenomenon, which, as before stated, is somewhat fi-equent in these seas. The opportunities afforded during the progress of the works in 1847 — 1851 gave many unusu- allv good opportunities for observing the peculiarities of their action, of which the following good account is given : — The curious phenomenon, popularly known as the water-spout, was fre- quently seen in the Straits, and on two occasions I was fortunate enough to observe them in full action, at a distance of little less than half a mile. On the first occasion, when on board the gun-boat Charlotte, off Barbukit Point, at 4 p.m. on the 29th May, a heavy cloud, with rain about to fall from it, was observed to be approuchiug, driven by the S.W. breeze then blowing. WATER SPOUTS. 7 To the southward the atmosphere was observed to be damp and hazy, while to the North it was clear and dry. On the rain reaching the sea a vapour tube was seen to protrude in the midst from the cloud downwards, gradually lessening in its diameter till it reached two-thirds of the distance between the cloud and the sea, and below which point the tube did not descend. The altitude of the cloud was judged to be about 1,000 feet above the surface. A small attenuated column of white vapour was now noticed to rise out of the sea with a hissing noise, and which was soon surrounded by white vapour disengaged therefrom. This column quickly effected a junction with the large and heavy vapour tube depending from above, into the centre of which it seemed to be re- ceived. The water-spout played for about five minutes, during which time the depending tube appeared alternately elongated and shortened, and the vapour surrounding it maintained a spiral motion. The day was hot. Again, on the 1st of July another was seen from Pedra Branca, bearing S.W., and approaching the rock. This was at 4.15 p.m. The height of the spout seemed to be nearly 1,000 feet, and its diameter halfway up 50. The depending tube revolved with the hands of a watch, or from West by the North to East, &c. In this one, which was of very large diameter, two columns or tubes of vapour seemed to be in action, one within the other. The depending one, whose massive and opaque vapour was derived from the cloud, enveloped the other, which was thin and attenuated and rose from the sea, with the noise above described, and entered the lower end of the de- pending tube, through which it seemed to ascend up to the cloud. The ascending column, as usual, disengaged much white vapour from the surface of the sea, and with which its lower end was surrounded. This water-spout depended from a nimbus, and rain was falling all round it. The nimbus was travelling N.E., and the water-spout was on the advanced edge of it. At 4.25 the depending tube gradually wasted away, until it vanished, when the white vapour of the ascending column parted from the surface of the sea and ascended, like the curling of smoke, up towards the cloud, at the same time the hissing noise ceased, and the surrounding minute spray entirely disappeared.* The atmosphere was clear and dry to the N.E., but rainy and threatening to the S.W., from whence the nimbus travelled. Probably twenty others were seen during the season, but at too great dis- tances for satisfactory observations. It was invariably remarked that water-spouts formed themselves in rain- clouds, or nimbi, at a time when the rain was about to fall or had fallen for a short time ; the state of the atmosphere favourable to their formation * In this one I observed what was entirely new to me, viz., that the particles of vapour contained in the outer and dependent tube, besides being driven in the helical curve round the inner or ascending column, revolved also round the threads of the helix. 8 WINDS AND SEASONS. would therefore appear to be just when the capability of the air to support the cloud was in a balanced state. Squalls. — The larger atmospherical disturbances of squalls formed also in- teresting objects of observation, the frequency of their occurrence in the Straits of Malacca, and the force with which they sometimes press on the sail, render them of too much consequence to the frequenter of these seas to be lightly considered. The squalls may be divided into local and general, the first forming in the isolated hills, and influencing the immediate districts only, and the latter termed the " Sumatras," as they invariably come from that island, affecting hundreds of miles on the same day. The local squalls were observed to form on the only high hills within view from Pedra Branca, viz., Bintang and Barbukit. During the calm months of May and June, should the day be more than usually hot, by noon the moisture of the atmosphere was invariably seen to condense on the cool tops of these eminences, and form into high accumulated masses of vapour, by one or two o'clock the atmosphere being refrigerated and rendered dense in the process would rush down from the summits, displacing the hot and rarified air of the plains, and cooling with its accompanying showers the parched soil. At the change of the monsoons, before either had set in to blow regularly, the local squalls would be seen to spread themselves out from the locality of their formation equally in all directions, upon the sur- rounding plains. But when either monsoon was blowing, they would be carried in the direction of the prevailing wind, — during the S.W. monsoon towards the N. and N.E., and during the N.E. monsoon towards the S. and S.W. Even during the height of the N.E. monsoon, which blows more steadily than the S.W. one, at night its under current of air would always moderate, if not cease, though, as might be seen by the travelling clouds above, the upper current was not arrested in its progress. At the latter end of the monsoon it has not power to overcome the density of the air over- spreading the peninsula, created during the cool of the night, until 10 and 12 and even 4 o'clock of the following day. On such occasions, if the weather be fair and hot, the atmosphere will have condensed its vapour on Barbukit Hill, and from whence heavy squalls will proceed across the Straits of Singapore, assisted by the monsoon. Of this we had many instances, heavy N.E. squalls having taken the gun-boats inside of the Straits, while at the same moment, 10 miles distant, an agreeable and permanent N.E. breeze has been experienced out at Pedra Branca. The laws that have been observed to generate and direct the local squalls may be safely assumed to operate in the same manner, with regard to the general squalls or " Sumatras" that in the Straits come from the direction of that island during the S.W. monsoon. In Sumatra the regular prevailing wind may be supposed to meet obstruction in the high range of mountains. SINGAPORE. 9 that intersect the island in a longitudinal direction, and not having strength at all times to overcome the barrier, is curbed, until, as has been seen to be the case with the local squalls, condensed air has been formed on the high- lands, which, with its accompanying vapours, rushes down to displace the heated and rarified atmosphere of the valleys and plains on the lee, and being at the same time urged on by the pent up force of the monsoon now let loose, stretches itself far and wide over the Malacca Straits and the generally low-lying surface of the Malayan Peninsula. These ** Sumatras " were found to arrive at Pedra Branca between the hours of 3 and 8 a.m., and if we be allowed to infer with regard to their time of origin that it is the same as obtains in local squalls, viz. from 1 1 a.m. to 4 p.m., assuming the distance travelled to be 300 miles, their rate of progression will be 19 to 20 miles an hour. This was corroborated by watching their arrival at distant high points of land seen from the rock, and noting the interval of time consumed in their coming to the rock. A storm or gale is generally estimated to travel at the rate of 32 miles an hour ; but it is only for the first few minutes that a " Sumatra " assumes this character, and this only in sudden puffs; they soon decrease in force to a high wind, which is said to travel at the rate of 16 or 17 miles an hour. The approach. of a " Sumatra " has much to attract the attention of the student of nature. The most imposing characteristic is in the immense arch that it forms, stretching from the zenith to opposite points of the horizon and below the arch, which is of the darkest hue, there are suspended dark grey vapours, about to descend on the surface of the earth. Above the dark arch will be seen light grey fog banks, over which a slighter arch will be spanning, and which is again crowned by white fleecy clouds, contrasting, if the squall approach at daylight, strongly with the blue sky above and the dark masses below. SINGAPORE. — The following remarks on the climate, &c., of Singapore are by Dr. E. Little, derived from tables furnished him by Captain Elliott, M.E. They are very important, being based on adequate and well digested data. They are therefore given more at length than in other cases : — Singapore, though within 80 miles of the equator, through its abundancr> of moisture, either deposited by the dews or gentle refreshing showers, keepf its atmosphere cool, prevents the parching effect of the sun, and promotes continual verdure. It never experiences furious gales. If more than ordi- nary heat has accumulated moisture and electricity, a squall generally sets in, followed by a heavy shower of rain ; these squalls never exceed one or two hours in duration. According as the monsoon blows, you will have them rising in that direction. In 1841, during the N.E. monsoon, there were four squalls from that direction ; but the most severe and numerous are from the S.W., which are called Sumatras, and they most frequently occur between 1 and 5 in the morning. The N.E. monsoon blows from I. A. 10 WINDS AND SEASONS. November to March, and after which the wind veers round to S.E., and gradually sets into the S.W., between which points it continues in May, June, July, and September. The N.E. monsoon blows more steadily than the S.W. one. The temperature of Singapore is one or two degrees cooler during the former than the latter, which also brings more rain. It is further remarked that the wind always lulls at night, during the height of either monsoon. Daring the S.W. monsoon a wind from the South prevails at times, which is termed by the natives Angin Jawa, or Java winds, because it comes from the direction of that island. This especially exists in Septem- ber, which is attributed to the usual cooling land breeze being replaced in the mornings during that month by the hotter breeze from the sea ; as we advance into the interior this hot breeze is not felt. TABLE OF THE WINDS. MONTHS. January . , February March .... April .... May June . • , , July August . . September October . . November December Total. Number of Hours in which the Wind is in each Quarter. N.W. S.W. N.E. 2,097 1,389 94 645 105 2,154 422 276 2,145 746 1,213 1,106 524 1,070 356 343 1,627 286 456 2,142 185 661 1,737 210 481 1,332 287 941 1,048 726 1,085 412 431 1,207 237 1,370 8,899 11,293 11,347 S.E. 126 277 537 655 1,028 1,549 925 1,080 704 347 231 162 7,621 These observations } were taken during five years. Four years. Three years. Four years. How beautiful an illustration, exclaims the writer, of the little variation we find in the general laws of nature ; though how often do we remark how changeable is the weather. From these observations, carried on nearly five years, the wind blows from the N.E. during 474 days 9 hours, from the opposite direction, S.W., during the contrary monsoon, 470 days 13 hours; another deduction is made, that during the months of December, January, RAIN AT SINGAPORE. 11 February, and March, the wind blows more continuously from the N.E. than any other direction ; while in the months of June, July, August, and September, the wind is principally to the S.W. During November the pre- vailing wind is N.W., while its antagonist, S.E., blows in the month of June. Another fact is elicited, viz., that in April we have the winds blow- ing from the direction of N.W. and N.E. 1,852 hours ; and from the S.W. and S.E. 1,868 hours. In October we have them blowing from the N.W. and N.E. 1,567 hours; and from the S.W. and S.E. 1,'395 hours : thus the wind, in changing from the N.E. monsoon to the S.W., seems to do so gradually from N.E. to N.N.E., then N.W. to West, then S.W. ; and, in changing from the S.W. to the N.E., retraces its progress by retaining: its westerly direction, and not reaching the N.E. by S., then S.E. and E., but adopting the same direction, by which it reached the S.W. from N.E., viz., a westerly. In the same paper the following facts' are announced with regard to the fall of rain and quantity of moisture in the atmosphere. In 1820, rain fell on 229 days; in 1821, on 203 days; in 1824, on 136 days; and in 1825, on 171 days ; giving an average on 4 years of 185 rainy days, and 180 dry in ayear. The quantity of rain that falls is well illustrated in the following table : — FALL OF RAIN AT THE SINGAPORE OBSERVATORY. SHOWN BY THE NXTMBER OF INCHES. Months. 1841 1842 1843 1844 Total of 4 years. Average of 1 year. January Inches. 3.750 Inches. 22.585 Inches. 18.070 Inches. 10.219 Inches. 54.624 Inches. 13.656 February 6.750 10.900 3.050 6.923 27.623 6.905 March 5.009 7.220 8.045 4.150 24.424 6.106 April 3.010 10.071 5.645 12.300 31.035 7.758 May 6.095 9.003 9.000 7.775 31.873 7.968 June 7.490 7.228 6.320 5.098 2.270 8.500 6.025 5.890 22.105 26.716 5.526 July 6.679 August 7.095 6.025 5.545 5.750 24.415 6.103 September 4.220 4.250 4.055 5.075 17.600 4.400 October 4.070 12.225 21.005 9.420 12.145 9.560 10.200 6.060 47.420 37.265 11.855 November 9.316 December 6.175 4.350 3.415 8.750 25.690 6.422 Totals 73.126 116.244 92,300 89.117 370.790 92.697 12 WINDS AND SEASONS. It will be observed, from the above, that the greatest fall of rain during these four years occui'red in January, 1842, and the least in June, 1843. The year 1841 was unusually dry, 73 inches only having fallen, while the suc- ceeding was unusually wet, 116 inches having fallen. This was caused by the unusual drj^ness of January and October, in the former year ; and the unusual wetness of both in the latter. By examining the average for each month, the seasons will be found to be very equable, the least average being for September and June, which respectively have 4.400 and 5.526 inches, and the greatest being, for January and October respectively, 13.656 and 11.855 innhes. During the other months the rain averages from 6 to 9 in- ches. The annual average fall is 92.697 inches, a quantity which is about 2 inches less than the average fall for the latitude of Singapore, as stated by Humboldt, who gives 96 inches as the average fall at the equator. With regard to the temperature of the atmosphere, in 1841 to 1845, the mean was 81°. 247, the lowest mean of a month being, for January, 72°. 55, the temperature increases to May, June, and July, which have 82°. 30, 82°.29, and 82°. 24 respectively. It is concluded, from the above, that the tempera- ture of Singapore is 2°. 90 less than other localities in similar latitudes, and that the range between the mean temperature of May and January extends over 2°.76, and adding up the mean temperature of each month of each year, we have the mean temperature as follows : — Of 1841 1842 1843 1844 and 1845 As 81.28 81.6 81.09 80.82 and 81.66 From which this inference is drawn, that in five successive years the mean temperature did not vary one degree. Deduction made from other tables gave the maximum temperature for five years at 87°. 5, and the extreme minimum 7 4°. 7 ; the former occurred in June, 1842, and the latter in January, 1843, giving the greatest range as 9°. 8. To this I may add, that I have seen the thermometer down to 68°.5 in January of the present year, at Bonny Grass, the residence of Dr. Little, where the thermometer was hung iu a building, well protected from the sun, but open on all sides. From observations taken by Captain Davis during six years, the mean temperat;ire was — In 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 and 1825 As 79.5 79.5 80.2 79.8 81.0 and 81.4 These observations were taken at 6 a.m. and noon, and the following taken at Singapore Observatory, during the same hours, gives — In 1841 1842 1843 1844 and 1845 As 82.0 82.08 81.58 83.7 and 84.©4 Thus showing that, in 20 years, the temperature of Singapore Town has in- creased 2°.48. The cause of this advance of the temperature is assigned to STRAIT OF BANKA, ETC. 13 the country, within 3 miles of the town, being now clear of jungle, and cul- tivated, which formerly was covered with primeval forest. Dr. Little concludes his remarks by stating the mean annual solar radia- tion to be 12r.50, the mean terrestrial 66°. 10, and the hourly mean reading of the barometer 29.884 inches, which never varies more than the twentieth of an inch. Thunder showers frequently occur, particularly at the breaking up of the monsoons. That interesting and wonderful atmospherical phenumenon, called a water spout, is often to be seen in the seas and straits adjacent ; they would more properly be called whirlwinds charged with vapour. They occur generally in the morning, between eight and twelve o'clock, and rise to the height of half a mile, in the distance appearing like large columns, supporting the heavy masses of Cumuli above them. I noticed, in October, 1841, six of these attached to one cloud, under action at the same time. In August, 1838, one passed over the town and harbour of Singapore, dismast- ing one ship, and sinking another, and carrying off the comer of the roof of a house in its passage landward. No other atmospherical disturbances of any moment occur. The typhoons of the China Sea, or Bay of Bengal, do not reach these parts, nor are there hot winds to parch the land. The equable and quiet state of the atmosphere and seasons of these regions con- sequently create analogous properties in the face of indiginous vegetation. Evergreens abound, few trees shed all their leaves at one time, and many of fruit trees produce all the year round ; such that have their seasons of fruit will frequently produce their crops out of season, having small irregular ones at intervening times. This continual verdure is perhaps more grateful to the eye of the stranger than to those who have been accustomed to it ; to the former it bears the pleasant appearance of exuberance and fecundity, where the lofty forest not only hangs over the beach, but clothes the moun- tains to their tops, so unlike the sterile bareness of higher latitudes ; while to the other, the continued sameness palls the senses, which lack variety and call for a sterile winter only that they may renew, with doubly keen concep- tion by the contrast, their acquaintance with the beauties of returning summer that here always reigns. STEAIT of BANKA, &c.— The winds in Banka Strait follow the direction of the coasts, though with slight variations from the influence of the land and sea breezes ; and fresh breezes may always be expected when working against the monsoon. During the shifting months of the S.E. monsoon, sailing vessels are often five and six weeks in making the passage from Singapore to Banka Strait. In the month of September H.M.S. Saracen had the S.E. monsoon strong, with much rain ; about the equinox there were several heavy squalls. This monsoon is generally supposed to shift about the beginning of October, but during the whole of this month the wind was only 4 hours from the north- 14 WINDS AND SEASONS. ward, there being a succession of calms, light southerly airs, a close muggy atmosphere surcharged with electricity, and frequent heavy Sumatra squalls or south-westers. On the 9th of November the monsoon shifted with furious gusts. These squalls at this season generally take place at night, accompanied with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. They are of short duration, and it was noticed that when one occurs about the time of full and change, another may be expected an hour later every night till the next change of the moon. In the Strait of Sunda the winds vary between S.S.E. and E.S.E. from April to October, and are then called the eastern monsoon. They are gene- rally W.N. W. and N.W. during the western monsoon, which succeeds the preceding one. This monsoon comes in November, and brings bad weather. There are alternate breezes in this strait ; they blow from the South before noon, and from the North in the afternoon, and are separated by an interval of calm. On the South Coast of Java the wind blows from the N.W., while the N.E. monsoon is blowing to the North of the line, from October to April : it ceases in March. In April the winds are variable ; and in May are settled in the East. The weather is fine, and the winds are strongest from June to August. In October the S.E. monsoon becomes weaker; and, till the re- turn of the N.W. monsoon, the winds are variable. In May and November a great deal ctf rain falls on this coast. In February and the first part of the month of March, as well as in October, that is when the monsoon changes, the land and sea breezes are alternately regular ; they are weaker in October, February, and March. In these two last months, and also in April, the land breezes commense with squalls, or at times with a heavy storm. After tins has passed, the breezes from the land are moderate till the return of the sea breeze. In April and May, on this coast, the sea breeze commences with a heavy squall, or a storm, which does not last long. JAVA SEA. — The following summary is by Captain Jansen, as quoted by M. Krecke: — During the month of February the westerly monsoon is still strong and steady : in March it is interrupted by calms and squalls, which become less frequent and less violent in April. Now the easterly winds burst in suddenly ; clouds Collect and darken the sky, while there are incessant thunderstorms by day and night, and waterspouts are very common. If the wind changes again to West or North, the sky clears again ; but this wind does not last, and the clouds soon re-appear. The rain gradually ceases during the day time, and the S.E. winds prevail throughout the mouth of May. At the time of the reverse change of the East to the West monsoon, the calms last for a shorter period, as the wind assumes a decided N.W. direction at once, and the showers of rain, accompanied by violent squalls, JAVA SEA. 15 are felt only for a short time. Thunder storms are abundant, but only on land, or close to the coast. Toward the end of November the N.W. mon- soon is again permanent. On the North Coast of Java, from May to July, the winds blow from the S.E. with a return of the opposite winds, which vary to the N.E. near the West point of the island. During the S.E. monsoon, the winds are S.S.E., varying to E.S.E., and it is fine weather. In October the winds are light, weak, and variable. The N.W. monsoon generally commences in October, but sometimes it occurs in September, or is retarded till November, and ends in March. This is the season of the heavy rains. In the month of Decem- ber the West winds predominate. Towards the middle of February squalls and tempests occur, accompanied by rain. At Batavia, from April to No- vember, the weather is tolerably fine ; but, after that, rain ensues till the end of the year. On the Southern Coast of Borneo, from thePulo-Laut to the Strait of Sunda, the S.E. monsoon prevails from May to September, like the West of Java. At the same time, in the Indian Ocean, the S.W. monsoon is found to the North of the line. From September to April the West winds blow on this coast, the rams are constant, and the weather often very bad. During the S.E. monsoon the weather, though still humid, is less rainy than during the N.W. monsoon. Observations carried on for a series of years (1850 — 1856) at Palemhang, on the N.W. coast of the south-eastern part of Sumatra, have led to the foUowing results: — From November to March the prevalent winds are westerly and north-westerly. This is the regular rainy season during the West monsoon. April is the month of the change of the monsoons, when thunderstorms are most frequent. From May till September, easterly and south-easterly winds (of the East monsoon) are permanent, and the change comes in September or October. From this it appears that the wind shifts pretty regularly round the com- pass, for its mean direction for each month in rotation, counting from South to West, is — Jan. Feb. March. April. Slay. June. S. 7° W. I S. 20° W. I S. 30° W. | W. 2a° N. | W. 79^ N. | W. ^b" N. July. Augn.'st. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. K. 6° E. I N. 21° E. I N. lt>° E. ] N. 2o° E. | E. 30° S. | S. 4° W. At Banjermassing, on the South coast of Borneo, the S.W. monsoon prevails from December to March ; the S.E. monsoon from April to October. The change seems to be of short duration. Rain is most abundant from July to October, while thunderstorms are more frequent in the months of November, December, and May, at times consequently later than the changes of the monsoons. There is, ho wever, in this respect, a considerable variation be- 16 . WINDS AND SEASONS. tween individual years. In 1851, eighteen thunderstorms were observed, while eighty-three took place in 1857. A close examination of the direction of the wind leads to the following results : — The predominant direction of the wind in December is S.W. and W.S.W., and it becomes more westerly in January and February. In March the direction during the day is less constant. In April the S.E. wind becomes prevalent, and increases in steadiness up to August and September. In October it gets round to the southward. In November this is the case, in the morning hours, in a still higher degree ; in fact, in the afternoon the wind goes somewhat past the South towards the West. At last, in Decem- ber, the S.W. monsoon is definitely established. — {Kreclce.) GTJLF of SIAM. — The following account of the winds and weather is by Lieutenant John Eichards, E..N., who surveyed the guK in H.M.S. Saracen, in 1855-8. The N.E. monsoon in the Gulf of Siam sets in early in Novem- ber. It is usually preceded by a month of squally, variable, and uncertain weather. In the months of November, December, and January, the wind blows be- tween N.N.E. and East ; generally strong breezes, with the temperature occasionally as low as 65°. Along the eastern shore of the gulf at this time the sky is frequently unclouded for a week together, but on the opposite coast the weather is wet and stormy. In November and December, strong squalls, with heavy thunder and light- ning, are occasionally met with near Pulo Panjang. Towards the end of January the wind blows more from the eastward, is steadier, and abates in strength. In February the wind is more constant from E.S.E. than from any other point; it veers between S.E. and N.E., with occasional calms and squalls. Fine weather and smooth water now prevail all over the gulf. In March the monsoon cannot be depended on. In the middle of the gulf calms prevail ; with southerly winds near the shore, and occasional land and sea breezes. Towards the end of the month the weather becomes hot and sultry. April is the hottest month of the year ; calms may be expected near the middle of the gulf ; land and sea breezes near the shore, and occasional slight squalls. From the 2nd of April until the 15th of May, 1856, the Saracen remained at anchor off the Bangkok Bar, during which interval the river was siirveyed, and the four-mile boundary line round the town of Bangkok defined. Towards the middle of April the weather changed, and became gloomy and threatening ; at the latter end of the month there were several days continuous and heavy rain, after which the weather became snowery, and continued so during the remainder of the above period. On the 15th the Saracen sailed for Singapore, and in the upper part of the gulf had calms and light winds from the eastward, drawing round to the CAMBODIA. •■ 17 sontliward as the Itedang- Islands were neared. A southerly current was experienced the whole way down to Pulo Aor. S. TV, Monxoon. — In May clouds begin to bank up, and an occasional shower relieves the intensity of a vertical sun. The S.W. monsoon sets in about the middle of the month, sometimes preceded by light flaws of wind and fine weather, but usually with squally weather, and occasional heavy falls of rain. In June, July, and August the S.W. monsoon blows strong, with occasional showers, but generally very fine weather along the western shore of the Gulf; oxit in the middle a rough sea, and along the eastern shore strong breezes with much rain, and occasionally a fresh gale. In September the wind is very unsteady, veering between S.W. and W.N.W. in strong gusts. Heavy and continuous rain may be expected in this month. In October the wind veers between West and North, and abates consi- derably in strength ; the rain squalls are less frequent. Towards the end of the month the wind settles in the North, and the cold weather and fine sea- son set in. Vessels bound to the Gulf from Hong Kong will not profit much by leaving China earlier than the middle of this month. At the bar of Bangkok Eiver land and sea breezes generally prevail, veering by the East or West according to the monsoon. The S.W. monsoon is scarcely felt close in shore, between Cape Patani and the Eedang Islands, its course being inten-upted by the high land in that neighbourhood. To the southward of Pulo Kapas it takes the direction of the coast, veering a few points on or off shore by day or night, under the influence, alternately, of the sea and land breezes. White squalls are said to prevail in the Gulf, particularly in the month of May. Black squalls are frequent in the S.W. monsooh ; they rise in the west- ward, accompanied by a heavy bank of clouds, and blow with great violence for a short time, and are frequently accompanied by heavy rain. Heavy gales are unknown in the Gulf. Cambodia. — On the coast of Cambodia, in June, July, and August, there are heavy rains, accompanied by S.W. winds. The monsoons are not regular on this coast, and land and sea breezes are met with when the prevailing monsoon is weak. The breezes do not last more than five or six hours during the S.W. monsoon, and are not so Iresh as those which prevail at the end of the N.E. monsoon. In Pulo Timoan and Pulo Condore the N.E. monsoon is established towards the 15th of October with fine weather. The S.W. monsoon brings rain, and lasts during eight months. Near these islands, in November, there are alternately calms, storms, accompanied by rain, and typhoons. At Pulo Condore the rains last for a month after the N.E. monsoon is established, and at Pulo Timoan the wind becomes un- settled in September, and the change of monsoon brings bad weather. In I. A. i> IS WINDS AND SEASONS. November the weather is fine. On the coast which extends between the Gulf of Siam and Cape Padaran the S.W. monsoon blows along the shore. Sometimes, near the land, during the night, a light land breeze is found succeeded by an interval of calm, which is followed by the wind re South than East ARAFUEA SEA. 19 in the latter. The first corresponds with the N.E. monsoon North of the equator, and the second with the S.W. monsoon. But from the configuration of the islands, the direction of their mountain chains, and the efi'ect these have in causing the rain clouds to deposit their moisture, these alternating monsoons are much less regular than they are in the open ocean, far from these disturbing causes. In general, it may be remarked that to the South of the equator, as far as the parallels of 10° or 12° S., the direction of the wind differs ten or twelve points from that prevailing to the North of the equator at the same period ; that is, to the North of the equator if the wind or monsoon is from Narth, that to the South of the line will be N.N.W. ; and if the southerly monsoon is blowing North of the equator, in the Eastern Passages, it will be from E.S.E. or East, In the Strait of Bali the wind often blows from the North with much violence, and in that of Sapy there are alternate breezes from land and sea. They blow from the South in the morning, and from the North about two hours after noon. There is often an interval of calm between them. In the other straits, to the East of Java, the winds are of a singular nature, and also very variable. In the Java Sea, as in the neighbourhood of the Moluccas, the N.W. monsoon commences in the first part of November, but does not attain its greatest force till near the end of December. It lasts till the end of March, when the intervals of calm commence, with variable winds, squalls, and rain. The S.E. monsoon commences in April, and gets gradually stronger till May ; it ends in October, during which month the winds are variable. This is the law generally observed in these two seas, except that it must be remembered that there are variations in the direction ; it draws sometimes to the North and West, and sometimes to the South and East. Besides this, the changes of the monsoons do not take place at settled times ; that of the S.E. is subject to calms, and the wind is less stormy, while it lasts, than during that of the N.W. monsoon. Arafura Sea.— In the sea lying between New Guinea and Timor, the easterly monsoon commences in April, and continues until the beginning of October, when, after a few weeks of variable winds, the westerly monsoon sets in, and continues without intermission until the beginning of March. In the southern part of the Indian Archipelago generally, the easterly mon- soon is attended with fine weather, but on the S.W. coast of New Guinea, and among the islands to the westward, as far as the East coast of Celebes, frequently squalls, with heavy rain, are experienced at this season, often ac- companied with considerable swell from the southward, while, during the remainder of the year, the weather is fine. This rule, however, does not extend farther to the westward, for from Celebes to the western extremity of the Archipelago, and also on the North coast of Australia, the westerly is the rainy monsoon. The monsoons, when at their height, usually blow in 20 . WINDS AND SEASONS. an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction ; but towards the change they draw round more to the southward, sometimes continuing several days at S.W. The easterly monsoon brings rain, on the eastern part of the Archipelago, as far as Celebes ; beyond this, to the westward, the westerly monsoon is the rainy season. The effect of this on the vegetation of the different islands has been. before alluded to. It would seem to be only accounted for by the fact that the monsoons are deprived of their rain-cloud soon after encounter- ing the land. The easterly monsoon, blowing over the Pacific, breaks over New Guinea, the Moluccas, and the eastern side of Celebes, the high moun- tains of the first-named keeping the rainfall off the North coast of Australia and Timor. The southern part of the latter and northern Australia are open to the westerly rain-bearing winds of the Indian Ocean. On the West Coast of New Guinea two monsoons occur, one from the S.E., which lasts from April to October ; and the other from the N.W., which commences at the end of October, and terminates towards the end of April. In January the wind near this island varies from N.N.W. to N.E. ; in the spring the weather often changes ; and in March, April, and May, the weather is squally. From June to September a great quantity of rain falls ; and from October to May the weather is fine and calm, without clouds or fogs. To the North of Bourou and Ceram the S.E. monsoon varies between S.S.E. and S.S.W., and at the Isle of Amboyna from East to S.E. In the same isles the N."W. monsoon varies from W.S.W. to N.W. This last, which is often called the westerly monsoon, is during the stormy season in these isles, and ends in April. The S.E. monsoon commences in March, and lasts till November, and is the rainy season. During this monsoon violent storms occur in the Moluccas, and rain falls abundantly over the largest islands of the Archipelago. This monsoon ceases in November. The North and N."W. monsoon does not set in till some time after; for, during two months, the winds are alway variable in these seas towards the end of the monsoons. From October to April the weather is moderately fine. In the Moluccas, which occupy a space between 5° North of the equator, and 1° South latitude, the winds are much less regular, because there is a great difference between the monsoons which exist in the two hemispheres at the same time. In that part of the Arafura Sea between New Gruinea and Australia, during the month of January and the commencement of the western mon- soon, the winds are generally from the N.E. to North, occasionally drawing to the westward. Near the N.E. coast of Australia, as far as the parallel of 14" S., winds which vary from N.E. to W.N.W. prevail, and more to the South they come from East and E.S.E. Between these two monsoons there are frequent calms of long duration, and tlie time of the change from the S.E. to the N.W. monsoon is the period TIMOE. 21 ■when these long calms mostly prevail. When the monsoon is about to be established, westerly winds blow for five or six days ; then they cease, and are sometimes succeeded by light variable winds for a month. Then, at the following syzygy, the monsoon becomes established, accompanied by gloomy rainy weather, and sometimes squalls, for two or three days. The weather then clears, and there is a moderate breeze for some time, producing clearer and finer -weather than is felt during the S.E. monsoon. Two or three days •wet weather is to be expected at the time of the syzygies, although sometimes for five or six weeks continual fine weather may have prevailed. Near the land the weather is always more stormy and rainy than it is farther out at sea, although at the limit of the monsoon in the parallel of 15^ S. latitude the weather is generally wet and stormy. The mean direction of the wind is nearly W.N.W., varying to N.W. and S.W. at the time of the syzygies ; during these periods it is often "W.S.W. In the Timor Sea, and that part of the sea situated between the Arru Isles and the North coast of Australia, as well as in the vicinity of Torres Strait, the S.E. monsoon blows with much regularity. Towards the middle of it, from May to August, it varies from E.S.E. to S.E., and is then very strong. The Malays call this the white season. In the beginning and near the end of this monsoon the wind is due East, sometimes veering to E.N.E. During this munsoon the breeze is generally fresh and steady when the moon quarters, and we find calms and unsettled wea';her at the time of the syzygies. This fact has also been remarked in the trade wind of the eastern coast of Australia. In Torres Strait easterly winds prevail. The westerly monsoon does not blow steadil}', but is often modified by the East wind, which is then light and variable, lasting several days, till it strengthens to a fresh breeze. On the North-west Coast of Timor, in September and March, the N.W. monsoon, varying to N.N.W., is in force. In April or May it is followed by that from S.E., varying to S.S.E., which ends in October. The N.W. mon- soon, as before stated, is the bad weather season, and the winds in December are very violent. This monsoon is only well established at the end of November or December, and heavy winds, accompanied by rain, blowing between West and North, continue till February. At the end of April, or beginning of May, the wind returns to East, varying to South ; they are very strong on the North coast of the island, where it is then the fine season. The strongest winds vary West by South and N.N.E. On the opposite coast of this island there is a great diflference between the winds. The S.E. mon- soon is very feeble on the South coast, and strong on the North. On the South coast there are storms during the fir.st part of October ; while on the North these are only felt in December. During the fine season the land and sea breezes are strong on both coasts. On the South the land breeze varies from N.E. to North, the sea breeze from S.S.E. to S.S.W. 22 WINDS AND SEASONS. The Island of Celebes, like that of Borneo, is divided into two parts by the equator, and the same remarks given previous! j' for the monsoons at Bnrneo, are appliacable here. On the South coast the S.E. monsoon is established from May to October, and the S.W. monsoon prevails on that part of the island which is North of the equator at the same time. The S.E. monsoon, which lasts from May to October, on the coast of Celebes, situated South of the equator, brings the driest season. The N.W. monsoon replaces the S.E. towards October, and continues till April, when rain is almost perpetual, and the wind strong. During the two months when the sun is vertical over ihe island, and near to the syzygies, there are invariably northerly winds aTid rain. On that part of the island situated North of tlie equator, the N.E. monsoon in October replaces the S.W., making the fine season. In the North part of the Strait of Macassar, from May to October, a S.E. monsoon is found on the East coast of Borneo ; also between Celebes and Grilolo, it is succeeded by the N.W. monsoon, continuing from November to April. In the South part of the Strait the wind is N.E. in April, May, and June ; but there is less in August and September. During October, November, Decem- ber, and following months, fresh breezes prevail from W.S.W. to W.N.W. in these latitudes. Near the West coast of Celebes, from May to October, we find land and sea breezes, while on the opposite coast of Borneo the wind is steady from the South. From November to April, on the western const of Celebes, the wind varies from W.S.W. to W.N.W. ; in April, May, and June, it is from N.E., but is light during the month of August. It has been remarked that when the S.W. wind prevails on the Celebes coast,, about 6 leagues off the coast it becomes W.N.W. and N.W. on the coast of Borneo. During the S.E. monsoon, from May to October, a vessel cannot oontend against it on the low coast of Borneo ; and on this coast, in this season, light land breezes are found, while on the corresponding coast of Celebes, which is elevated, a fresh land wind blows during the night, followed during the day by a sea breeze. In December we generally find alternate winds near Celebes. In August and September the winds are light ; but sometimes off this coast storms from the S.W. occur, and long calms. In the Celebes Sea and Sooloo Archipelago easterly' winds prevail in October, but are not regularly established till November. In May they are replaced by westerly winds, and in a month become established to terminate in Oc- tober ; the climate is then made up of rain, squalls, and tempests, which take place generally in July and August. In September a heavy mist hanga about the coast of Mmdanao. At the commencement of the westerly mon- soon the winds are light for some time, with heavy rain, during which the wind blows in an opposite direction, sometimes lasting from tlie eastward more than a week. Occasionally heavy storms happen until the westerly wind becomes established. During this monsoon the weather is cloudy, rainy, and sometime;* stormy ; and in this reason we find between Mindanao BOENEO. 2S and Celebes that heavy storms take place from N.W. ; the westerly winds sometimes last till November. In the Sooloo Sen the East and N.E. monsoon is not a steady fresh breeze, but often varies. In the neighbourhood of Mindanao the northerly winds never blow fresh,- but are often displaced for several days by light changeable winds, which again occurs at the end of January, and it is considered that the same winds prevail from the Sooloo Archipelago to Manila. The Island of Borneo forms the N.W. and western boundary of the China Sea, and is intersected by the equator, and the result is as in Sumatra, that the monsoons of the N.W. coast do not take place at the same time as those on the West coast. The S.W. monsoon prevailing on the N.W. coast from May to October, at the same time as the S.E monsoon is on the West coast, and the N.E. monsoon blows on the N.W. coast, while the N.W. monsoon prevails on the AVest coast. On the northern part of Borneo the S.W. mon- Boon is not established till between the 15th and 30th of May, when there is continual rain. The weather is not so bad in September, and the dry season sets in with the N.E. winds, varying to the East. However, this can hardly be called the dry season ; for, in consequence of its position under the equator, the island is incessantly inundated with rain. On the West coast the S.E. monsoon prevails towards the end of May, and fine weather then sets in. From September to April the West or N.W. monsoun occurs, with continual rain and heavy gales. The weather at Lahuan, on the N.W. coast of Borneo, is generally very fine ; the land and sea breezes are seldom interrupted. A large quantity of rain falls annually, but this generally comes off the coast ot Borneo in squalls, which most frequently oc( ur between 8 p.m. and midnight, and blow heavily, especially in June and July. In tiie S.W. monsoon the land breeze, which usually commences with these squalls, lasts until 7 or 8 a.m., and is a steady, fresh breeze, whilst in the N.E. monsoon it is light and variable, and, if blowing hard in the China Sea, it is not felt at Labuan. The sea breeze in the S.W. monsoon usually commences at noon, and lasts until 4 or 5 p.m., seldom exceeding a royal breeze ; but in the N.E. monsoon it commences earlier, and lasts until 7 or 8 p.m., hanging well to the northward, and blowing fresh. January, February, and March, are the dry months ; only 2.2 inches of rain fell in those months in 1865. Ihe monsoims on the coast of Palawan are so subject to interruption, being influenced by local circumstances and other causes, that it is dilfic.ult to say at what period either fairly sets in. The barometer is of little use in prog- nosticating the changes ; the difierence in the column of mercurj' for the whole year, seldom exceeding two-tenths of an inch. In general the mercury rises to N.E. and easterly winds, and falls to S.W. and westerly. In January to April moderate N.E. and easterly winds prevail on the coast of Palawan, and on the coast of Luzon land and sea breezes have been 24 WINDS AND SEASONS. experienced with considerable regularity. May, and the early part of June, appear to be the finest period of the year on the coast of Palawan, when, land and sea breezes prevail with tolerable regnlarity, the former coming fresh from the South and S.E. in the morning, and the latter from the North and N.W. in the afternoon. Towards the end of June, and throughout July, unsettled weather, gene- rally commencing about the change of moon, may be expected. A slight depression of the mercury, after a succession of fine weather, frequently in- dicates the approach of strong W.S.W. squalls, which are usually accompa- nied by dark cloudy weather and much rain, lasting for a week or ten days. These are generally succeeded by a period of fine weather, with N.W. and S.W. winds, which draw to the southward and eastward in the mornings. If June or July have been unsettled, it may be expected that August gene- rally will be fine, with moderate S.W., but more frequently westerly winds, particularly in the afternoon. If, on the contrary, June or July has been tolerably fine, very unsettled weather may be expected in August. In September and October the wind generally blows strong from the W.S.W., with dark, cloudy weather ; and oG the S.AV. end of Palawan squalls, which veer to W.N.W. and N.W., sometimes blowing with great violence, succeed each other rapidly, and are accompanied by rain. Between the squalls the wind very often shifts to S.E. In November and December the weather is variable ; N.E. and easterly winds, changing at times to S.E., more frequently prevail. Among the Philippine Islands the two regular monsoons prevail, which are met with in the China Sea. These monsoons sometimes extend as far South as the Mariana Islands in the Pacific Ocean, and as far North as the coast of Japan. The Philippine Islands, lying North and South, their high lands naturally intercept the course of the wind ; and the result is that at forty or fifty leagues from them much bad weather is encountered, which becomes much worse as the islands are approached. The N.E. monsoon commences about October, with fine weather, lasting till April, with winds varying from North to N.E. If it should occasionally veer to N.W. it blows hard. The S.W. monsoon is not observed here till between the com- mencement and end of May, and does not become regular till June. During this monsoon the \^eather is gloomy, cloudy, and very wet. About this period severe storms sometimes occur, called " collas tempestados," which are generally accompanied by thunder and rain, the wind changing about and blowing from all points of the compass with the same force. These collas and bad weather take place at the end of July, or middle of August, and sometimes in October. They are not unlike the typhoons. In September the wind loses strength, the rain is less, and the sky is fine ; but in the morning there is a thick fog, which lasts till noon. At the change of the monsoons bad weather is sometimes felt, as in the China Sea. During CURRENTS AND TIDES. 25 February and March, about the end of the N.E. monsoon, on the coast of Lu9on, the wind varies, often with a tendency to follow the course of the alternate land and sea or solar breezes. The alternate winds are well esta- blished in April ; and from June to October, the period of the S.W. mon- soon, the wind brings rain, which blows on the coast at right angles. II.— CUR EE NTS ANDTILES. It will be manifest that if it be difficult to define exactly the direction and seasons of the monsoons which blow over the Indian Archipelago, it will be still more difficult to describe the currents. Ocean currents are induced, in a great degree, by the prevalent direction of the wind, which having free scope over both land and sea, has a much more persistent character than that of the surface water, driven through tortuous channels, often lying transverse to the normal direction of the wind. Again there are anomalies arising from the tidal streams, the flood tide from the Pacific, and that from the Indian Ocean, both being directed to the same quarters, produces many apparent complications. As a general rule, the true current sets to leeward, impelled by the trade wind or monsoon prevailing at the period, and when the waters have to pass through the narrow straits between the islands it often rushes past with great velocity. But then this true current is frequently overcome or accelerated by the tida,l streams reaching it in opposite directions ; and, therefore, each strait requires special exemplification, and this will generally be found in the de- scription of the coasts which follow these preliminary chapters. One general remark may be made. A large portion of the archipelago lies between the two great tropical drifts to westward ; in other parts of the world, as on the Guinea Coast, and in the Gulf of Panama, a counter current is found near the equator running to eastward, between these westward drifts. It cannot be said that such a counter current is found in the Indian Archipelago ; but the same causes, difficult to define, which produce this equatorial counter current, will help to make the movements of the waters here more complicated and difficult of comprehension. North and South of this central belt on the eastern coasts of Asia and Australia, the equatorial streams recurve and form streams analagous to the Gulf Stream in the At- lantic ; and this is especially the case in the stream flowing through the Formosa Channel past the Japan Islands. This was first defined by the Editor in his Pacific Directory fts the Japanese Current. 26 CUEEENTS AND TIDES. The temperature of the ocean in the Archipelago is high, as might be ex- pected ; and, from its peculiar condition, it may be looked on as the head waters of that great circulatory system, which reaches every portion of the ocean in its course, and gives one universal character to the waters of the ocean. Sea water, as is well known, possesses the same characteristics in every known part of the world, and from the surface to its bed. This can only have arisen from the entire circulation and intermingling of the whole mass of the waters of the ocean, which has passed over every portion of its bed. A few brief remarks on each locality will suffice to give a more particular notion of the movement of the waters in its vicinity. Malacca and Singapore Steaits. — The great island of Sumatra, from its lying directly across the line of direction of the two monsoons, causes the currents which enter, or run out of the China Sea by the Malacca Strait, to be much modified by tidal influences. As a broad rule, it may be stated that the waters flow to West and N.W. during the N.E. monsoon, between November and March, and set in the opposite direction with a lesser velo- city during the S.W. monsoon, which blows the water into the Bay of Bengal. In September, while the S.W. monsoon still lasts, a strong current sets eastward around the South part of Ceylon, and thence directly for Acheen Head in Sumatra, where it is divided, a portion running down the West Coast of Sumatra to S.W., and the other as a weak current down the Strait of Malacca. In October this drift is weak and uncertain, but in No- vember, when the N.E. monsoon is in full force, the current to N.W. and along the North Coast of Sumatra runs at the mean rate of a mile an hour. From December to February this current still moves to leeward, and in March and April is sometimes very strong. When the S.W. monsoon seta in, iu May or June, the reverse current commences, and in July and August attains considerable strength, and thus continues, with some fluctuations, until September or October. But all these movements of the waters are much mixed up with the tidal streams. The flood tide enters the Strait of Malacca from the N.W., and is met somewhere in the Strait of Singapore by the flood stream coming from the China Sea. In the Strait of Singapore the true current streams become still more marked by the tides. During the construction of the Horsburg Lighthouse at its eastern entrance, and therefore open to the influences directly coming from the China Sea, Mr. Thompson made the following observations: — The tidal currents set through the Middle Channel, that is, to the North of Pedra, Branca, in a N.E. and S.W. directioa, through the South Channel, between STRAIT OF SUNDA. 27 Pedra Branca and the Bintang shore, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and through the North Channel between Romania shoal and islands, in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The currents are much affected by the pre- vailing winds ; they set strongly into the straits during the continuance of the N.E. monsoon, and in a contrary direction during the S.W. monsoon. This is particularly the case during neap tides. It is high water at full and change at Pedra Branca at 10'' 35™ a.m. The flood runs into the Straits and the ebb outwards, but the current does not generally turn till half ebb or half flood, that is, if low water be at 6 a.m. the current will run ebb till 9 a.m., although the water be rising on the rock. At 12*" noon it would bo high water, after which the tide would fall, but notwithstanding this the current would run flood till 3'' p.m. before turning ; but there are frequent exceptions to this rule, for I observed during the months of May, June, and July, when the morning ebb tides fall strong out till three hours after the tide began to rise on the rocks, and then continued slack water all day ; while in the months of October and November, when the evening ebb falls much lower than the morning one, the tidal current would set strong out all night and continue slack inwards during the next day. At full moon, in August, 1851, I found the perpendicular rise and fall of tide was only 2 ft. 9 in., but three days afterwards it was 6 ft. 7 in., which was the greatest during three springs. In July the greatest rise was 7 ft. 9 in. The neap tides only rise and fall 1 ft. 7 in. Again he says:— The current at times is not less than 4 miles an hour, and probably nearer 5, though this is unusual, and 2 to 4 knots may be taken as the usual strength, though much variation was observed during different months. Strong ebbs prevailed during the mornings of May, June, and July, and on the evenings of October and November strong ebbs also prevail. During the S.W. monsoon the floods do not run so strong as the ebbs. Strait of Sunda. — The currents in this Strait are more of the nature of tides, although very much affected by the winds. During the S.E. monsoon the ebb tide on the South side of the Strait frequently sets to westward at from 1 to 2 knots, and lasting for fourteen hours, succeeded by a slack water or weak flood for six hours. In the middle of the Strait the velocity is greater, from 2 to 3^ miles per hour. "When the winds are light, the flood to N.E. and the ebb to S.W. succeed each other regularly, and their rate is about equal, but at spring tides and in the middle of the Strait they attain a rate of 3 or 3i miles an hour. In the opposite season of the westerly mon- soon the ebb and flood are generally regular, but during strong gales the flood lasts longest. In February and March a strong set to the W.S.W. is sometimes met with on the North side, reaching a velocity at times of 4 to 4 J miles an hour. In the description of the Strait in a subsequent page, this topic will be again alluded to. 28 CURRENTS AND TIDES. In Banka Strait and the adjacent passages there is much complication in the movements of the waters, arising from two causes, the one is the meeting of the flood tides from the China Sea and from the Indian Ocean, and the other is from the peculiarity of the monsoons, which, as explained in our Indian Ocean Directory (pages 29 — 36), are here an intermediate belt be- tween the northerly and southerly monsoons on either side of the equator. Occurring during the southern summer months, November to March, and coming from the N.W. is called the middle or cross monsoon. During its greatest strength, January to March, the current or ebb tide sets to south- ward for fourteen to eighteen hours at a time, with a rate of 2 to 3^ knots, and the flood from South is then scarcely perceptible. The reverse occurs during the S.E. monsoon, the flood stream setting with great velocity to the northward, while sometimes the ebb runs out weakly for eight or ten hours. To the northward the N W. monsoon has more eflFect than the S.E. mon- soon, and the reverse is the case in the opposite season. Between the mon- soons the tidal streams are regular, but when the monsoons are blowing strongly, a constant surface drift is found setting to leeward on the Sumatra shore. Gulf or Siam. — The following is by Lieutenant Richards, who surveyed the Gulf :— The currents in the Gulf of Siam, near the middle, are generally weak and variable, but near the land, in the strength of the monsoons, strong sets may be expected. In the S.W. monsoon a strong northerly current was found, from Lem Chong P'ra to Sam-roi-yot Point. In the N.E. monsoon there is frequently a strong set across the head of the Gulf to the westward. In the neighbourhood of the Redang Islands and Pulo Obi, the strong currents prevalent in the China Sea may be expected. The China Sea cur- rent does not appear to enter the Gulf further than a few miles, but is said to set across its mouth in both monsoons. The flood tide from the China Sea appears to meet the western shore of the Gulf, and divides somewhere near Cape Patani ; for at the Redang Islands the flood sets to the southward, and at Singora and Koh Krah it was found setting to the northward. CHINA SEA in the South-west Monsoon. — The currents in the China Sea are very changeable, their direction and velocity depending much upon local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they generally begin to set to the northward, in the southern and middle parts of the sea, and continue to run in a north-easterly direction until September, while the S.W. monsoon is strong; but they are not constant in this monsoon, for at times, when the wind is moderate or light, they are liable to change and set in various directions. After the strength of the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current in the open sea, running to the north-eastward ; but sometimes its direction is to the southward. CHINA SEA. 29 Along the coast of Cochin China, from Pulo Obi to Cape Pandaran, the current sets mostly to the E.N.E., parallel to the shore, from April to the middle of October; and during the same period its direction is generally to the northward along the East coast of the Malay peninsula, from the entrance of Singapore Strait to the Gulf of Siam. To the northward of Cape Padaran there is but little current in the S.W. monsoon, near the Cochin China coast ; for, from thence to the Gulf of Tong King, a small drain is sometimes found setting northward, at other times southward. When a gale happens to blow out of the latter gulf from the N. W. and westward, the current at the same time sets generally to the S.W. or southward, in the vicinity of the Paracel islands and reefs, or where these gales are experienced ; and this current running obliquely, or contrary to the wind, a turbulent and high sea is thereby produced. On the Southern Coast of China the current is much governed by the wind ; when strong S.W. winds prevail, it runs along shore to the eastward, but seldom strong. Near and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there is generally a westerly current, occasioned by the freshes from Canton River, which set in that direction ; frequently sweeping along the islands from Macao to St. John between W.S.W. and W.N.W., about 1 or 2 knots per hour. This westerly current is, however, not always constant in the S.W. monsoon, for it slacks at times ; then a weak tide may sometimes be expe- rienced running eastward. On the coasts of Luzon and Palawan, the current generally sets northward in the SW. monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and near these coasts it seldom runs strong. Near the Bashi Islands it sometimes sets eastward when strong westerly winds prevail ; but generally strong to the northward, or between N.N.W. and N.E. In the North-east Monsoon. — The current in the China Sea during the N.E. monsoon generally runs south-westward, with a velocity depending on the strength of the wind. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate and light breezes, there is often little or no current. In the western parts of the sea, along the coasts of Cochin China and the Malay Peninsula, the current generally begins to run to the southward about the middle of October (sometimes sooner on the former coast), and continues until April. During the month of March its direction is constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with light easterly winds and calms at times. On the coast of Cochin China, and adjacent to Hainan Island, a current varying from South to S.W., commences sometimes about the middle of September; near the land, from lat. 15° N. to 11° or 11^° N., it increases in strength ; but its rate decreases in proportion as it flows southward. During the prevalence of the N.E. monsoon, from about lat. 14° N. to Cape Padaran, the current near the coast frequently runs 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles to the southward in 24 hours ; the rate, however, is variable, and it is only 30 CUERENTS AND TIDES. in the limits above mentioned that it is occasionally so strongs, for its strength abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the S.W., towards the entrance of the Gulf of Siam. On the Southern Coast of China the current, during the N.E. monsoon, runs almost constantly to the W.S.W., nearly parallel to the land ; and sometimes with inconceivable rapidity, when a typhoon or a storm happens. At the distance of 70 or 80 miles from the coast, it seldom runs so strong as near it ; and in 30 or 40 fathoms soundings there is much less current than in shoal water, near the shore and amongst the islands. The westerly current sometimes slacks, and, contiguous to the land, is succeeded by a kind of tide. Between Formosa and the China coast the current runs to the southward during the N.E. monsoon. When strong N.E. winds prevail, its direction is generally to the S.W. or southward, between the South end of Formosa and the North end of Luzon ; but here, in light variable winds, it often sets to the northward. On the West coast of Luzon the current is change- able, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times northward. On the coast of Palawan it is also mutable, governed by the prevailing •winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless impelled by severe gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Boteltobago Island, it frequently runs strong to the northward and north-eastward, so early as the 1st of March ; and although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction during the S.W. monsoon ; and in the opposite direction during the N.E. monsoon. — (China Sea Directory. J EASTERN PASSAGES.— The currents in the passages East of Java are very various, and, like the monsoons, do not seem to be reducible to any fixed laws, a feature doubtless due to their geographic relations, lying as they do between the wind systems of the northern and southern hemispheres. But as their action is frequently of importance in endeavouring to make a passage against an adverse wind, they require much attention. The follow- ing imperfect notes, derived frequently from the Dutch, are given as a guide to their general character. South Coast of Java. — The monsoons here are liable to great deviations, although they frequently shift about the middle of April and November. This is owing in some degree to the mountainous character of the island ; and there are some remarkable reverse currents experienced when within a degree or two of the coast. The Dutch officers, Lieutenants Rietveld, Eschauzier, &c., say that during the easterly monsoon, April to November, a constant easterly current is encountered, or running against the monsoon at times so strong as to ripple, but on an average of 10 to 12 miles per day. The drift is frequently to S.E. two-thirds of a mile an hour. Captain M. H. Jansen has stated that in the eastern monsoon the current sets to the west- ward from full to change of the moon, and either to the eastward from the BALI STEAIT— NEW GUINEA. 31 change, or that there was no current. It is also certain that there is a con- siderable set to the westward in this monsoon, especially near the shore. In the westerly monsoon the current is sometimes to the S.S.E. and South, decreasing' in force to between 11° and 15°, and then ceases, and a strong westerly current is encountered increasing in velocity as the Strait of Sunda is approached, amounting at times to 42 miles per day. Bali Strait. — The currents or tides run through the Narrows of Bali Strait with great velocity, some say 6 knots, and cause great ripplings, eddies, and a boisterous sea, particularly near the Bali shore during the eastern monsoon, when the S.S.W. winds blow so strongly that it is often impossible to manoeuvre a ship. The flood runs to the northward and the ebb to the southward, and at full and change of the moon it is high water there between 12 and 1 o'clock. About quadrature of the moon, and particularly near the last quarter, the tides are very irregular ; they change first on the Java side of the strait, and only If or 2 hours later on the Bali shore. During the eastern monsoon the flood is often found only near the Java shore, and even there not to the northward of Batu Dodol, but diu-ing the western monsoon the northerly currents prevail. A tide lasts often for 7 or 8 hours. TiMOE, Etc. — The currents are strong, with great ripplings, in the Ombay passage, and the Straits to the northward of Timor, generally setting to the N.E. during the western monsoon, and during the opposite to the south- westward ; but in some places, close in-shore, a kind of weak tide has been experienced. Near the entrance of the Straits of Alloo and Pantar the current takes a northerly direction during the eastern monsoon, but during the western monsoon it sets out S.S.W. The strong current in the Ombay Passage seems to cause a strong easterly current along the North coast of Ombay during the eastern monsoon. In June the S. W. or westerly currents in the Ombay Passage seem to have attained their greatest strength, amounting to 72 or 82 miles in twenty-four hours. Near the end of the eastern monsoon (in August and September) strong easterly currents take place in the Ombay Passage, though in October they often run with great velocity to the south-westward. Ships from Java or Macassar, bound to Amboina, during the eastern monsoon, work along the North coasts of Sombawa, Flores, &c., till they have reached the N.W. or North point of Wetter ; or further to the east- ward, if bound to Banda ; and the voyage is often much accelerated by favourable currents. New Guinea, Etc. — During the easterly monsoon, the current sets to the N.W. along the western coast of New Guinea and between the Ki and Arru Islands, and thence eastward along the South coast of Ceram, at the rate of a mile or a mile and a half an hour, according to the strength of the wind 32 TIDES. the velocity being greatest along the coast of New Guinea. At this period an easterly current prevails on the North side of the islands, extending from Timor to Timor-Laut, so that a moderately fast vessel would experience no di£B.culty there in beating up against that monsoon. In the westetrly mon- soon the current in these seas usually sets with the wind, but its velocity is not so great as during the other season. Of the currents on the North coast of New Guinea we have buc few par- ticulars, and these chiefly from D'Urville, who sailed along it in August, 1827, where he found strong westerly and N.W. currents of more than a mile an hour. It is probable that this westerly drift is constant, and that, arriving at the Moluccas and Philippine Islands, it is diverted more to the northward, and finally assumes the N.E. direction along the coast of China, which has been previously adverted to. 1 1 1.— T IDES. But little can be said here to give a general view of the tides in the Indian Archipelago. Each particular locality and strait would require a special exemplification, which as far as we have the means, is given in the local descriptions in a subsequent part of the work. The flood tidal wave from the Indian Ocean, proceeding in a N.E. direc- tion, is mainly obstructed b.y the line of islands which it encounters in its whole breadth. It passes through the various channels with considerable rapidity when favoured by the monsoon, or is almost annihilated by the contrary season. In the former case it passes on till it meets that which comes from the Pacific and China Sea, thus neutralizing each other, and occasioning much complication, and the phenomena of double tides. In the difl'erent seasons the tides from this cause are in some cases quite reversed, the high water hour corresponding in one case with the low water, period of the other. Free from the entanglements of the Archipelago, the great tidal wave pur- sues a normal course in the Pacific, and, according to the China Pilot, it strikes upon the eastern coast of China, from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse kiang, nearly at the same period ; it being high water on fuU and change days in the neighbourhood of the Lema Islands, at about 8^ 30", and at the outer islands of the Chusan Archipelago it is an hour later. The rise and fall, however, increases considerably to the northward ; probably owing to the obstruction which the wave receives from the Philippine Islands ; and in some instances the diurnal inequality is great. By the Tide Table it will be perceived that to the eastward of HoDg Kong, and as far as Breaker TIDE TABLE. 33 point, the tideg are irregular and weak, the current occasioned by the mon- soon overcoming them. After passing Breaker Point, the coast trends more northerly, and the flood stream will be found useful to vessels bound to the northward. The rise and fall increases, passing from 7 ft. at Namoa Island to 12 ft. at Tong- sang, and 20 ft. at Amoy. Between Amoy and the Eiver Min, the rise of the tide varies from 16 to 18 ft. at springs, and the flood enters on the North. as well as on the South side of Hai-tan Strait. To the northward of the Min, the flood sets more determinately to the North ; it seldom, however (unless ofi" headlands or in narrow channels), overcomes the current caused by the monsoon, but has the effect of slacken- ing it. Throughout the Chusan Archipelago and the estuaries to the North, great care and attention to the tides is necessary. Particular instructions for this purpose will be found in the body of the work ; and it only remains here to caution the navigator that, as his vessel approaches the coast to the northward at Chusan, the tides increase in rapidity, and unless precaution is taken, she will be set among the small islets of this rugged archipelago. The following Tide Table, extracted faom that published by the Admi- ralty, and drawn up by Commander Burdwood, E.N., will give the times of high water and the ranges of the tides. TIDE TABLE. Place. Malacca Strait, Malay Coast. Junkseylon Island (E side) Pulo Tubah Qneda Penang (Georgetown) North Sands Light vessel (One Fa- thom Bank) Arroa Cape flacbada Sambilangs Binding River Malacca Road Hi?h Water, Full and Change. 10 noon noon noon 5 30 6 5 30 2 30 7 30 Sps. Nps. ft. ft. 12 5i 9 15 12 15 12 14 9 13 12 lOi 6r 11 8^ Place. Off i^Iount Formoza , . Tanjong Bolus Singapore, New Har- bour * Rhio Strait Malacca Strait, Sumatra Coast. Diamond Point ...... Bala wan River flattie Point Siak River (entrance) „ off the town .... High Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps. 8 30 9 30 9 45 9 50 noon 3 3 9 ft. 11 lOi 10 7 9 7 10 7 10 12 11 ft. H 6-7 * The low water at Singapore is affected by a large diurnal inequality, amounting at times to 6 feet. 34 TIDE TABLE. Place. Hiffh l Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps Place. *Hifrh Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps. Sumatra^ N.E. Coast. Pulo Aor St. Barbe Badas Island, Bay* Batoo Barra . . Dheli River . . Linsa Sumatra, West Coast. Bencoolen Sillebar Rivpp (Bar) . . Mensular Island (S.E. end) Padanfj Road Tappanoely Harbour . Acheen Head Diamond Point Durian Strait. Sabon Island Deep Point . . Red Island . . Banka Strait. ToboeAli Point. Laboh Point . . Lucipara Pass Nangka Island Kalian Point . . Bersiap Point. . Cape Oelar , . . . Gaspar Strait. § Pulo Memlanao Pulo Leat Java Sea. Ciimon Islands .... Sourabaya Strait (Zee Bank) Strait, Jansen Channel. . Banjoewangie , . . , Segoro Wedie Bay h. m. 6 6 2 50 3 6 6 6 6 10 8 45 noon 5 5 8 30t 10 0+ 11 Of irr. 7 8 6 30 6 30 2 30 2 30 8 jrr. irr. 1 9 ft. 5 6 12 7-10 10 10 lOi 10-10 10 10 9# 12 12 12 6 4-6 9 8-10 Patytan Bay Tylatiap Harbour (S. Coast) Tytando Inlet Wynkoops Bay (S.W. Coast) . . Zand Bay Bantam Batavia Knlang Bayang Harb. Krakatoa Baly Strait Badong Bay (S. Coast) Tebunkos Road (North Coast) Lombock, West Coast. Ampanam Bay Peejow Bay . . Sumbawa. Ragged Island . Sapie Bay Britannia Bay . Bima Bay Sumba or Sandelhout, North Coast. Nangamessie Harbour Palmedo Road Timor. Koepang . Dilhi ... Flora Sea. Adenara, Floras Alligator B.iy, Magassak h. m. ft, 3 8 45 6 30 5 5 10 7 30 11 5 8 8 10 1 1 noon 11 30 11 1 4 40 6A 6 10-12 3 10 11-12 6 * From observations made in the month of September by W. Stanton, Commanding H.M. Surveying brig Saracen. + In S.E. monsoon. J In N.W. monsoon. § Only one high water in 24 hours, and very irregular. TIDE TABLE, 35 High Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps. Moluccas. Batchian, Gilolo .... Sanguir Island Geby, Fohou Island. . Manganitoe Bay .... Limbe Strait Stnaana Bay Koplwatte Bay Wahaay and Hatiling Bays Bouro, Cajili Bay .... Amboina S:tparooa Island .... Cambing or Island . . . , Banda, Banda Islands Dampier Strait Borneo, China Sea. St. Pierre, Island .... Rendezvous or Kum- pal Island Tanjong Api Sarawak hiver (Mora- tabas entrance) * . . „ Santubong . . „ Sarawak Junc- tion „ „ City Burong Island Rajang River Bruit River Bintula River Bruni River Labuaii Island, Victo- ria Harbour Mungalum Island, . . . Malludu Bay Balambansran Island, South Harbour .... Uosang Ragged Point Pamaruug Islands , . . , Balabac Island. Dalawan Bay Calandorang North Balabac Strait . Palawan, West Coast. Eran Bay a. m. 1 5 6 1 32 33 irr. noon noon ft. 6 6 5 5 9 7 3-4 7 6 6 14 11 5 15-18 5 20 15-18 4 45 4 45 3 5 45 11 9 45 11 10 30 10 8 7 11 11 10 50 10 10 / 13 11 6 12 6 5 6-8 6-8? 3^ 7 6-7 Place, ft. High Water, Full and Change. Sps Rise. Taj'-bay-oo-bay .... Ooloogan Bay Mayday Bay Port Barton? (Bubon Point) Pancol Bacuit Bay Cavern Island Millman Island Observatory Island . . Palawan, East Coast. Ursula Island Port Royalist Casuariiia Point Barren Island Calandasan Islands, Bird Isl .nd TaJ-Tai Bay Busuan^a Philippine Islands. Port Zebu Port Buluagan, O'sta Ana Port Iloilo Port San Jacinto, Ticao Island Paluan Bay (Mindoro) Manila (Luzon) .... Port Sual „ Port Laguimanoc „ Alabat Harlionr ,, Busainga (Burias Id.) Sarangani Point, Min- danao Scarborough Shoal . . Sulu Sea. Ubian Island (Kpena- poussan Group) f . . Cagayan Sulu t Doc-can Pearl Bank Sibutu Bongala Tanj Unsang Dalrymple Harbour, Sulu Island . h, m. ft. 10 15 6 9 30 5i 9 55 3| 10 55 6 9 40 6 10 6 9 30 6^ 10 27 2* 11 6i 11 n 11 0? 6i? 9 30 6f 9 30 5| 9 30 6 9 30 6f 30 6 noon 7 noon 51 noon 5i 6 30 6 5 10 40 3i-6 6 1 30 5i 10 9 30 6 7 6 11 5 6 15 5 6 10 6 6 5 6 5 5 6 50 5 6 40 6 8 H 7 50 4 * At Sarawak River the highest tides occur at the change of the monsoons, viz.. May and November. In the N.E. monsoon the higher tides occur at the new moon, and those of the day are higher and more regular than those of the night ; while during the S.W. mon- soon the contrary takes place, and the higher tides are then at full moon. t In the N.E. monsoon. 86 TIDE TABLE. Place. HiRh Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps. Place. High Water, Full and Change. Rise. Sps. Nps, Babuyan Islands. Port Pio Quinto, Ca- migiiin Island . . . . Port Musa, Fuga oi New Babuyan . . . . Pratas Shoal Batanes, Bashee Ids. Formosa, Takau Harliour. . . Port Kok-si-kon , Wanckan Bank.s , Tdngsiiiu Tam-Sui Harbour. Kelung Harbour , Sau-o Bay Meiaco Sima Group Port Haddington . . . Loo Choo Islands, Nafa Kianfif Port Uoriiinar Oho Sima, Vincennes Bav „ "Wild Wave Bay China Sea, West Coast {Malay Peninsula) Eomania Point Sidili Eiver . . Blair Harbour Gvlf of Siam. Tringano River.. ., Menam Eiv., Paknara Bangkok River .... Cape Liant Chentabnn liiver , Pulo Panjang- , Rocky Island , Cochin China. Pulo Condore* MithoRod .. Cape St. James Saigon City .. b. m. 6 4 0? 10 30 5 60 6 45 8 6 7 Irr. 5 7 10 7 4 ft. 4 3 10 8-10 7-10 3 7 9 7MT H 2 4 64 11 12 ft. 81-9 Nhatrang Bay Hon-cohe Bay Touron Bay . , China Sea, S.S. Coast. Bay, Hainan Gaalon Island Yu-lin-kan Bay .... Qnan-rhow-wan .... Tien -pak Harbour .. Hui-ling-san Namoa Hnrbour .... Boddnm Cove, Ladrone Islands Canton River (entr.) . . Broadway River (ent.) Typa Anchorage .... Macao Cumsingmun Harbour, Canton River Urm stone Bay .Junk Fleet entrance, Canton River Tnilung Channel „ Wang-nnni Channel.. ,1 unci ion Channel .... Laiikeetlsland, Canton River Lintin Island ,, Fan-si-ak Channel ,, Chuen-pee Point „ ! March April May & June Kuper Island, ( March oflf Canton < May & City (.June Sham-shui, Si" KiangorW. | }Feh. River Shao-king Wu-chu „J Hong Kong Road Ninepin Group . . Tide Cove, Mirs Bay Tooni-ang Island, Bias Bay Tsang-chow Id., Bias Bay , Hong-hai Bay , Kin-siang Point, Hie chechin Bay Chino Bay Haimun Ray h. m. 8 30 11 30 3 ft. 6 5 4 9 5 4-0 2^ 9-10 noon 8 30 10 9 40 10 11 10 10 H 8 n 7 H 6 10 30 6i 7' 11 50 1 50 11 50 2 6| 11 20 6i noon 1 noon 1 40 1 15 n 7-8 30 2 40 H 1 40 H 10 15 10 10 5-6 3 6 H 8 8 30 10 6| 7 7 9 6-7 6-7 * l-'rom a French Survey, 1862. t At Whampoa Docks — In March, the day and night tides rise to the same level. From April to October, the day tides are the higher, and from November to February the lower In May and June the level of spring tides ib 4 feet and the March neaps 2 feet higher than in TIDE TABLE. 37 Place. High Water, Full and Change. Spa. Nps. Place. Hiifh M'ater, Full and Change. Rise. Sps. Nps. Cape of Good Hope . . Cupchi Point Swatow (Double Id.) . . Clipper Eoad, Namoa Island Chauan Bay Tongsang Harbour . , Chimney Island, Rees Pass , M ikung Harbour (Pes cadores) , China, East Coast. Amoy, Inner Harbour „ Chiang Chin, West River Hu-i-tau Bay Chimmo Bay Chinchu Harbour .... Meichen Sound Haitan Strait White Dog Islands . . Min River, Temple Pt. ,, Losing Id. Chang-chi Island .... Spider Island Lishan Bay Namquan Harbour . . Namki Islands Pih-ki-.-)han Islands . . Fong-whang Group, Bullock Harbour .. Wan-ehu River (entr.) City . . Chin-ki Island Tai-chow Islands .,. . . St. George Island, San- moon Bay , Kweshan Islands . . . Nimrod Sound Vernon Channel, Cbu san Archipelago Ting hae Harbour . Poo-too I^land Lansew Bav Volcano Islands East Saddle I^land . Yung River, Chinhae ,. Ninsj-po-fu Hang-chu Bay, Seshan Islands ,, Fog Islands m. 15 15 30 11 30 10 SO noon 3 40 15 10 20 25 30 noon 9 10 45 noon 9 30 10 10 15 10 8 30 8 30 8 30 9 9 30 9 20 9 10 20 9 30 10 30 9 40 11 8 15 10 11 30 11 11 20 1 11 45 11 45 ft. 6 6-7 9 7 12^ 12 18. 16 16 17 17 18-22 18 19 17 17 17 16 17 17 17 17 15i \bh V6 14 15 14 20 14 12 12 13 15 14 12i 14i 14 Hi 14| Hang-chu Bay, Chapu Road „ (off Can-pu) Gutzlaff Island Yang-tse Kiang (light ship at entrance) . . ,, entrance to Wusnng River .... *Shanghai tLangshan Crossing. . Kiu-kiang Hankau Ydlow Sea. Wang-kia-tai Bay .... Wei-hai or Kyau-chau Bay Ching-tau Bay Lo-shan-kau Tau-tsui Head Tsing-hai Bay Staunton Island Wang-kia Bay Shihtau Bay Sang-tau Bay Aylen Bay Litau Bay Shantung Promontory Wei-hai-wei Harbour Lung-mun Harbour.. Chitu Hope Sound (Mi-au- tau Group) Miau-tau (Depot Bay) Ta-tsing ho or Yellow River Chi-Ho .... .... Peiho or Peking River (entrance) j Tien-tsin, Peiho Riv. Peh tang ho Sha-lui-tien Banks (W. part) Liau-tung, Chingho. . Lau-mu ho Tai-cho ho Yang ho Ning-hai Sand Point, Gulf of Liau-tung N.W. Head of Gulf of Liau-tung Liau Ho (Bar) h; m. noon 11 30 noon 40 1 30 1 40 6 65 2 30 3 4 9 30 10 10 34 ft. 25 32 15 16 12-15 10 12 24 44 10 24 H 10 35 6 4 10 m 4 10| 3 30 10 7 4^ 3 9 2 50 10 1 20 61 1 30 5 15 6 15 6 noon 6 4 50 7 6 30 10 4 11^ * From tidal observations made at Shanghai by the engineer to the Customs for the last six months of 1872, the night tides in July and in the following three months average con- siderably higher than the day ones. The reverse occurs in the months of November and December. — The North China Herald. t At the Langshan Crossing the tide rises for 3 hours only, and falls for 9 hours. — H.M.S. Acttpon, 1861. t Time and rise much affected bv winds. 38 TIDE TABLE. High Water, Full and Change. Sps. Xps. Liau Ho (Yin-koa) . . Vansittrtrts Saddle .... Hulu Shan Bay Society Bay, Sulivan Bay Port Adams, Mary Id. Pigeon Bay Ta-lien-whan Bay . . Encounter Rock Hniyun-tau, Thornton Haven Chang-zu-do Island . . Kwang-lo Korea. Pin?- Yang Inlet .... Chodo Island Ta-Tong River Salee River, Kapkot-i ,, Buisee Id. Seoul River, Poteu- mai* „ Kampa-oui „ Sfcukkol . . „ Seoul ... Marjoribanks Harbour Basil Bay Ko-kon-tau Group . . Kuper Harbour Crichton Harbour. . . . Tracy Island Hooper Island Port Hamilton Tsu-sima Sound .... Tsau-liang-hai or Cho- san Harbour Yung-hing Bay Port Lazaref, Brough- ton Bay Expedition Biiy Novogrod Bay Japan. Sagitsu-no-ura Harb. Yama Gawa Harbour, Kigoaima Gulf .... Nagasaki Bay Taske Oosuka Tama-no-ura Harbour, Goto Island Iki Yobuko Simonoseki Whitsed Bay Mikuni Roads h. m. ft. 5 12 4 20 10 2 30 8 15 8 2 10 11 4.5 8 10 47 10| 10 44 11 9 30 12 9 30 12 9 65 12 7 45 21 6 1^0 12 6 30 13 6 40 2U 5 20 36-^ 7 20 7 50 8 45 9 30 6* 3 80 29 4 15 18 2 25 18 9 28 lU 9 50 Ui 8 58 IM 9 10 lU 8 30 11 8 30 8 7 45 7 5 20 n 5 20 2i 2 30 2i 2 30 H 8 9 7 15 H 7 15 9 9 44 8i 9 16 H 8 40 6-8 8 9 16 9 8 30 8 8 30 8-3 1 2 ft. 14 111 16-2/ 3 7h 5" 5 4-6 64 6 Tsuruga Sado (Yebisu) Tsu^ar Strait La Perouse Strait .... Yezo Id., Notske Bay ,, Nemorro An- chorage „ Akishi Bay . . „ Endermo H. Oterranai Malo Yama „ Hakodadi Harb. Yamada Harbour .... YoKo-HAMA, Yedo B.f Yokoska Harbour Uraga Tatiyama Bay Fatsizio Port Simoda Heda Bay Eriora Bay Simidsu Matoja Harliour .... Hamagema-ura Owasi (Rodney Bay) . . Urakami Oosima Tanabe, Kii Channel Yura-no-uchi ........ Osaki Hacbken River Kata Channel Sus iki and Nomi Har- bours Uwajima Inland Sea. Hiogo and Kobe Bays Oosaka River (entr.) . . „ City Yura Harbour Naruto (Fukura) .... Benten Sima Nisi Siuia Sakoshi Bay Ananga Maiko Fort Hid-ide Awasima Island .... Siyako Island Yugisima Miwara Hangata Tomo Hime Sima Road .... High Water, Full and Change. Sps. h. m. ft. 1 30 2 5 2 5 5 10 30 6 4 50 H 5 4 4 30 5 4 35 5 variaVile 2 variable 3 5 4 4 30 4 6 6^ 5 15 8 5 55 44 5 50 5 6 5 6 3-5 H. 4 7 30 7 6 50 6 6 15 6 7 7 30 6 1 6 50 5 6 6 1 6 5i| 5 55 6* 6 4 6i 6 4 H 6 61 noon 8-9 7 15 5| 7 30 H 8 17 24 6 5 64 6 14 6^ 11 20 6 10 15 6? 19 10 S.I °4 11 27 2-4 6 27 3i 11 25 2-4 7 lOi 16 9^ 11 25 lUj 10 37 11 10 36 lU 11 0? 8 45 8 * in the Rivor Seoul, spring tides rise from 16| feet at the entrance, to 6^ feet at Seoul, t With southerly winds the tide rises about 2 fuot higher. o ( 39 ) I v.— T EMPERATURE. liemarks on the Temperatures of the China, Sulu, Celebes, and Banda Seas, hy Staff- Commander T. H. Tizard.* The temperatures obtained in the seas partially enclosed by the Indian Archipelago, prove that they have, each of them, deep basins cut off from the general oceanic circulation by ridges connecting the islands which sur- round them ; for although in each sea soundings of over 2,000 fathoms were obtained, in no case did the temperature decrease in a regular curve from the surface to the bottom, as is usual in the open ocean ; in every case, after attaining a certain depth, the temperature below that depth remained the same : thus, in the Banda and China Seas the temperature remained the same from 900 fathoms to the bottom, in the Celebes Sea from 700 fathoms to the bottom, and in the Sulu Sea from 400 fathoms to the bottom. In the China Sea three temperature soundings have been obtained, one by Commander Chimmo in H.M.S. Nassau, in lat. 12° 53' N., long. 110° 31' E., the depth being 1,546 fathoms; and two in the Challenger, one of which is in lat 17° 51' N., long. 117° 14' E., the depth being 2,150 fathoms, and the other in lat. 16° 42' N., long. 119° 22' E., the depth being 1,050 fathoms. In these three soundings the minimum temperature, which varied from 36°. 1 to 37°, was found at a depth ranging between 600 and 1,050 fathoms. In the Sulu Sea three temperature soundings have been obtained, one in lat. 8° 5' N., long. 119° 45' E. of the depth of 1,778 fathoms, by Commander Chimmo; one of 2,550 fathoms in lat. 8° 32' N., long. 121° 55' E. ; and one of 2,225 fathoms in lat. 8° 0' N., long. 121° 42' E. The latter soundings were obtained by the Challenger in October 1874 and in January 1875. In each of these three soundings the minimum temperature of 50°.5 was reached at the depth of 400 fathoms. From that depth to the bottom the temperature remained unchanged. In the Celebes Sea three temperature soundings were obtained in the Challenger, one in lat. 2° 55' N., long. 124' 53' E., in October 1874, the depth being 2,150 fathoms; a second in lat. 5° 44' N., long. 123° 34' E., also in October 1874, the depth being 2,600 fathoms ; and the third in lat, 5° 47' N., long. 124° 1' E., in February 1875, the depth being 2,050 fathoms. In each of these three soundings the minimum temperature of 38°.5 was reached, at a depth of from 700 to 800 fathoms, from which depth to the bottom the water remained unchanged. In the Banda Sea three temperature soundings were obtained in September 1874, one in lat. 5° 41' S., long. 134° 4' E., the depth being 800 fathoms; a second in lat. 5° 26' S., long. 133° 19' E., depth 580 fathoms ; and the third in lat. 5° 24' S., long. 130° 37' E., depth 2,800 fathoms. * Extracted from the " Geographical Magazine " for March 1876. 40 ' TEMPERATURE. In the last sounding, 2,800 fathoms, the minimum temperature of ST'.S was reached at the depth of 900 fathoms ; from thence to the bottom no alteration in the temperature of the water was detected. In the Molucca Passage, which connects the Banda Sea with the Pacific Ocean, one temperature sounding of 1,200 fathoms was obtained in lat. 0° 41' N., long. 126° 37' E., in October 1874, and the temperature was found to decrease regularly from the surface to the bottom, the minimum tempera- ture at the bottom being 35°.2. Two soundings and temperatures were also obtained in January 1875 in the waters of the Philippine Islands, which separates the water of the Sulu Sea from that of the Pacific Ocean. One of these soundings (700 fathoms) is in lat. 12° 21' N., long. 122° 15' E., in the basin formed by the islands of Panay, Tablas, Eomblon, Sibuyan, and Masbate ; and the other (375 fa- thoms) in lat. 9° 26' N., long. 123" 45' E., South of Bohol Island, in the channel leading from Suriago Strait to the Sulu Sea. In the first sounding the minimum temperature of 51°. 5 was reached at the depth of 220 fathoms ; and in the second, the minimum temperature of 54° was reached at the depth of 230 fathoms. A temperature sounding of 2,550 fathoms was obtained, in February 1875, in lat. 4° 19' N., long. 130° 15' E., in that part of the Pacific Ocean adjacent to the Celebes Sea and Molucca Passage. Here a minimum temperature of 34°. 6 was reached at 1,300 fathoms. An examination of the chart of these regions will show that the deep ba- sins of the China and Celebes Seas are alone in communication with the Pacific Ocean, and that consequently their temperature must be greatly de- pendent on the temperature of that part of the Pacific immediately adjacent to their openings into that ocean, for although both seas are in communica- tion indirectly with the Indian Ocean, they are cut off from the deep basin of that ocean by a large tract of shallow water, which, in the China Sea, ex- ceeds a breadth of 600 miles, and in the Celebes Sea is apparently about half the length of the Macassar Strait, The Sulu Sea receives its waters from the China and Celebes Seas and Pacific Ocean ; its temperature depends, therefore, to a great extent on the temperatures of those seas. The isotherm of 80° is found at a depth of 20 fathoms in the Sulu Sea; at 40 fathoms in the Celebes Sea ; and at 22 fathoms in the Banda Sea. In winter the China Sea has a large range of surface temperature from 64° at Hong Kong to 84° at Singapore, while the surface temperature of the other three seas varies only slightly all the year round. The specific gravity of the water in the Celebes, Sulu, and Banda Seas, was found to be less than in the Pacific Ocean : this may be accounted for by the excess of rainfall over evaporation in the area occupied by them. ( 41 ) v.— MAGNETIC VAEIATION. In the older works which described the navigation of this Archipelago, the important element of the compass variation was disregarded, because the magnetic meridians so nearly coincide with the geographic meridians, that they are in most parts practically the same. The isogonic lines, as shown on the illustrative chart, have a great pecu- liarity in the eastern seas. A line of no variation passes across the Coast of China and down through the Philippine Islands, while another, traversing the Bay of Bengal, passes southward of, and parallel to, the Island of Java. Between these lines the amount of easterly variation does not exceed 2° in the western, and 4° in the eastern parts of the area. The chart will best ex- plain this. But there are other considerations respecting the compass, apart from the amount of its deviation from the true meridian. This is the amount of the different terrestrial and local magnetic forces which act on the compass needle. The lines of equal dip will give one of these elements, but the works specially devoted to the subject will show how important it is that the commander should be aware of the effects of those varying magnetic changes he will have to pass through in his long voyage to the field of the present work. The epoch assumed in the chart is 1878, but there has been no appreciable change in the amount shown since magnetic observations have been con- ducted with accuracy, so that, for the present at least, it may be taken as correct for a long period, sufficiently so to draw attention to any unsuspected change in the magnetism of the ship, should the compass show a different amount to that given on the chart. I. A. CHAPTER 11. PASSAGES. One general principle may be laid down for ships traversing the Indian Ar- chipehigo, and that is that during the S.W. monsoon, April to September, ships approaching China must go by the channels westward of Borneo, and in the opposite season they will take one of the passages to the eastward of Sunda and of Borneo ; the return voyage being also reversed in these par- ticulars. Therefore the passages through the Archipelago, which lie westward of the great island of Borneo, are termed generally the Western Passages, being the Straits of Sunda and Malacca; and those which pass eastward of Java and Borneo are called the Eastern Passages. To these may be added what was termed the Great Eastern Passage, or that to the southward and eastward of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, and which was first followed by Capt. Butler, in the Walpole, in the northern monsoon of 1794. Of this route Captain Maury says — This now is never or very seldom used, and should never be attempted except tor very special reasons. An exception may be made to this absolute conclusion in favour of clipper or well handled ships, which sometimes have successfully attempted to beat up the China Sea against the N.E. monsoon. Of this more will be said here- after. The Strait of Sunda is then the great portal of the Archipelago and China Sea, and is used in all seasons for the ports South of China, and frequently in all seasons as an entrance to the Eastern Passages. In the remarks as to the most advisable routes, which will follow, the passages from the Atlantic through the Strait of Sunda will be first considered. 1.— THE ATLANTIC TO THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. In the volume on the navigation of the Indian Ocean, to which this is a continuation, full descriptions of the winds and currents of that ocean are given, so that by reference to that work an insight will be gained into those influences which affect a vessel's course in crossing it. On pages 158, 159, of that work, too, some brief remarks on the best track for approaching the PASSAGES. 43 Strait of Snncla, or the passages eastward of it, are given : but as this topic has more especial reference to the scope of this book, some further observa- tions will be given. Notwithstanding all the long discussions which have ensued since the vast extension of Oriental commerce, and the consequent accumulation of expe- rience, it is still a disputed point as to which is the best parallel for crossing the Indian ocean in sailing eastward round the Cape of Good Hope. On the one hand it is contended that by not going too far southward, better weather, and as much advantage otherwise, is gained. On the other hand, it is said that by keeping more approximatively to the great circle course, that is in higher latitudes, the " brave West winds " are more constant and of greater force, and that the distance to be sailed over is proportionately shortened. The following will illustrate this. The first remarks are taken from the Admiralty Sailing Directions, advocating a comparatively low parallel. On leaving the cape, steer boldly to the southward, so as to run down the easting in lat. 39° or 40° S., where the wind blows almost constantly from some western point, and seldom with more strength than will admit of carry- ing sail ; whereas in a higher latitude the weather is frequently boisterous and stormy, with sudden changes of wind. Some navigators prefer making their easting in a higher latitude than 39" or 40° S., whilst others steer a more direct course for Java Head than is here recommended ; but the above directions are those usually followed in H.M. ships, and are generally believed to be the best. Now, respecting this choice of the parallel of about 39°, on which to run eastward, the distance to be traversed, or the approximate 75° of longitude from the offing of the cape to the point where you must bear oflF to the north- ward, is about 3,508 miles, a distance of nearly 600 miles would be saved if the latitude of 50° were taken. On this point Captain Maury, who differs from the Admiralty, says as follows : — A vessel bound through the Straits of Sunda, after crossing the equator, usually holds her wind, hauling up to the eastward as the S.E. trades of the Atlantic will allow, until she gets into the calm belt of Capricorn. Here, though she may not find long continued calms, she finds, nevertheless, those light winds which are always found to prevail in that sort of debateable ground which is always between any two systems of winds. This calm belt is between the S.E. trades on one side, and the variables, or " brave West winds," of the southern hemisphere, on the other. Having cleared the trades, the present practice of mariners is to edge oflF a little to the East of South until they gain the parallel of 35° — 37° ; crossing this, they haul up due East, between the parallels of 37° and 39°, and run between them — the place of all others where the southern edge of the cy- 44 PASSAGES. clones which traverse those parallels is most apt to be felt adversely — from the prime meridian to longitude 80° — 85° E. Now, if any one were seeking to find a route that passes through the regions most beset with light and baffling winds, this is the route to which I should point. The idea of sailing 5,000 miles along the borders of the calm belt of Capricorn, as many East Indiamen do, when there is sea room for the Great Circle route, with the " brave West winds " " following fast," is simply absurd. Having run along this " debateable ground," and reached the meridian of 80° or 85° E., another mistake is committed by crossing this calm belt in the Indian Ocean again obliquely, which should never be done. These calm belts should alway?, whenever the land and dangers will admit, be crossed as directly on a meridian as the winds will allow ; for the sooner you cross them, the sooner you will get winds that will drive you along. Such is the course of the present route, as the Dutch crossings abundantly show, and has been shortened for the Dutch, and may be shortened for the Americans and all others, ten days or more, by all vessels that will follow this course. (1) After crossing the parallel of St. Roque, stand through the S.E. trades with a rap full and topmast studding sail, as if you were bound to Australia, not caring to make better than a S.S.E. course good, until you lose the trades, clear the calms of Capricorn, and get the " brave West winds " on the polar side of them. Vessels that do this will generally clear the calms, and get the " brave West winds " by the time they reach latitude 3.5°— 40°, finding themselves at this juncture somewhere between the meridians of 20° and 30° W. Now shape your course per Great Circle for the intersection of parallel of 40°, with the meridian of 80° — 85° E., or any other near which it may be deeiiied advisable, with the changing seasons, to enter the region of the S.E. trades of the Indian Ocean. The following route, from 30° W. 35° S. to the intersection of this parallel, with 85° E., difi'ers so little from the Great Circle, that the difference becomes practically of no moment. (2) Suppose you clear the calms of Capricorn in latitude 35°, longitude 30° W., now steer fur the meridian of 10° E., at its intersection with the parallel of 48° or 50° S. ; then run on between these parallels to longitude 50°. From this point steer for the intersection of 85° E. and 35° S. The total distance to be run South of the parallel of 35° being 5,000 miles, the distance by the present route being 5,500 miles; so here is one day's sail gained by the " short cut," and certainly better winds. (3) But suppose you have good luck in the South Atlantic, and can clear the calms of Capricorn in 20° W. instead of 30° W., but in the same latitude, your course then is to aim to strike the parallel of 50° in 20° E., and then run along it as before to 50° E., the distance South of 35° by this route being 4,900 miles. ATLANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 45 But suppose the winds favour you still more, and you be in 10° W. before you reach the parallel of 35° ; in this case you should run between the parallels of 45° — 46° till you come to the meridian of 50° E. You should so shape your course from 10° W. as to get between these parallels, near the meridian of 20° E. The distance South of 35°, by this route, is 4,400 miles ; in other words, the distance from the usual place of crossing the parallel of St. Roque to Java Head is — By present route, 9,200 miles; by (1), 8,940 miles; by (2), 8,730 miles; by (3), 8,520 miles. There is no part of the world where the master of a sailing vessel can turn his knowledge of the principles of Great Circle sailing to more advantage than he can when his course is East in that great expanse of ocean on the polar side of the calm belt by Capricorn. Here, when his course has easting in it, the famous westerly winds of that region will drive him ahead with the force and velocity of steam power. Suppose, therefore, a navigator, bound for the Straits of Sunda, should, instead of heading up East on crossing 35° S., near 30° "W., after having crossed the equator near this meridian, proceed to 40° S. before heading up East, how much would his distance from the equator in the Atlantic to the crossing of 40^ S. in longitude 85° E. be increased ? Answer, 100 miles. His gain in time to off-set this increase of distance would be a quicker run through the calms of Capricorn by reason of going straight across them, and the further advantage of strong winds along the more southern route. The best course, under all circumstances, is as a rule, to do thus : — Run from the equator in the Atlantic to the South as fast as you can, caring little for easting until you have cleared the calms of Capricorn, and caught the " brave West winds" on the polar side of that belt ; then shape your course so as to cross 20° E. between 47° and 52° S. ; leave these parallels about the meridian of 60° E., and then steer thence for the parallel of 40° S., near its intersection with 85° E. This description of the course to be run, and the points of intersection to be gained, is given only for those navigators who may be unable to get out of the true Great Circle routes and courses. It is well to remark that most ice has been seen along this route, between 20° and 40° E., and that much is to be gained by running down your easting as near to the South as ice and safety will permit. So impressed have I been with the gain to be made by running well to the South in this part of the ocean, that I formerly said, with regard to the route to Australia — " In further proof that the route recommended in the Sailing Directions of the Admiralty is too far to the North, and as an illustration of the advan- tage of the route which I advise, I have prepared some tables, and it appears from them that there is no longer room for difference of opinion as to the advantages of going farther South than 39°— 40°; how much farther, though, 46 PASSAGES. still remains to be decided. But so far as the facts before us go, they justify the assertion that for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route to Australia, you gain three days on the average, until you reach the parallel of 45° — 6°, for the averages of the table are not below this parallel ; and I believe it will turn out that the best streak of wind, in the long run, is to be found between 45° and 50° 8. It seems to be almost as steady, between these parallels, from the westward, as it is anywhere to the East, between the trade wind parallels of 15° and 20°. The average "vertex" of those that go South of 41° is 53° 33' ; the average "vertex" of those that go North of that parallel is 39° 7' S. The mean parallels upon which the latter run down their longitude is 38° 52', and the former 43° 59' ; for this diifer- ence of 5°, the average gain of those who take the more southern parallels is 14 days, which comes very near to an average of 3 days' gain on the voj'^age to Australia for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route. As far as 80° E., the Admiralty route to Australia and the old route to Sunda are the same. The average speed to Australia by the Admiralty route is 134 miles a day against 154 by the new route ; so that the route well to the South has in its favour not only better winds, but shorter degrees and longer daily runs. If the winds were fair all the way, the nearest route to Java Head from the fairway off St. Roque would be via the Cape of Good Hope ; indeed, the Great Circle from St. Koque to Java runs through the unexplored regions of Africa. But both the winds and the land render such a route in navigation impracticable ; for the former generally compel the outward Indiaman, in spite of herself, to cross the meridian of 25° W. as far South as the parallel of 30° — 33° S. ; and the Great Circle thence to Java Head passes some 8° or 10° South of the Cape of Good Hope. Moreover, the winds in the Indian Ocean render a departure from the Great Circle again necessary. The winds, however, are such as to admit all four of the routes on pages 42, 43, ante. The route No. 3 is 600 miles shorter, and has better winds than the present route. But, after clearing the S.E. trades of the Atlantic, the pre- sent route runs about 1,000 miles obliquely across the calms of Capricorn, where the average rate of sailing is not over 100 miles a day. Now, by going straight across these calms as by route (1), you will clear them gene- rally in two days, and then get those " brave West winds," which will waft you along at the rate of 200 or 300 miles a day, according to the heels of the ship. The navigator, therefore, will act most wisely who will wait, and let things as he may find them govern him as to where, after clearing the S.E. trades, he will begin to shape his course for the Great Circle to the meridian of 85° East, or for the meridian near which he proposes to cross the calms of Ca- pricorn in the Indian Ocean. Suffi' e it to say, he may begin to do it any- ATLANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 47 where South of 30°, and between the meridians of 30° and 10° W., and reach Java Head several days sooner, on the average, than he would by continuing to follow the present; route. In attempting to follow these Great Circle routes, navigators should recol- lect that the greate&t saving of distance, as compared with the rhumb-line route, is always along those arcs that lie nearly East and West, and are farthest from the equator ; and that, so far as distance is concerned, he might as well be out of his way on one side of these arcs as the other. As illustrative of this route, I may refer to the track of a ship whose log I have, and with regard to which I only say that, it she had stood on from lat. 28° to 35° S., at that season, in long. 20° W., and then shaped her course per Grreat Circle route, she would probably have done better ; as it is, she crossed the meridians as follows : — 0° in 36° 20' S. ; 20° E. in 38° 20' S. ; 40° E. in 38° 35' S. ; 60° E. in 38° S. ; 70° E. in 38° 20' S. ; 80° E. in 36" S. ; 90° E. in 33° 0' S. ; which is a fair representation of the average June route of the Dutch. "Arriving in lat. 28° 0' S., long 22° W., I projected," says her master, " on my chart, the Great Circle course thence to Java Head, the vertex being in lat. 44° S., and long, about 25° E. I adhered to this course as far as practicable, having in view the favourable sailing points of the vessel, and being compelled to run her before some of the heavy seas of the high lati- tudes until reaching the parallel of 30° in long, about 69° E., when I deemed it prudent to keep to the eastward of the Great Circle course, and approach the meridian of Java Head larther South, to forelay for the chance of there being considerable easting in the trades. I crossed the tropic in about 94° 30' E. long., and fetched Java Head, sailing upon an easy bow-line (which is a good sailing point of the vessel, and, I believe, of most sharp vessels). I will remark here that I could find nothing explicit in ' Hors- burgh' regarding the direction of the wind in the S.E. trades; but, after many unsatisfactory remarks, the whole is summed up on page 161, vol. i. 5th edition, thus : — When the sun has great North declination, it may not be absolutely requisite for ships which sail well to reach the meridian of thoir port so far southward, the trade wind then blowing more from S.E. and E.S.E. in general than from East and E.N.E. Accompanying my abstract is an abstract of the log of the ship Minstrel, of Boston, which vessel (commanded by my brother) pursued the Admiralty route in running up her easting ; and, although he crossed the equator in the Atlantic 12 days before me, yet I made Java Head the day before him, and there was not much difference in the sailing of the vessels. Where I gained on him most was in high latitudes. Although I made a fair passage by pursuing the circle course so far as the latitude of 33°, yet I would not again adhere to it farther than the vertex ; thence, I would sail East on or near, that parallel until reaching the longitude of 90", or thereabouts • then 48 PASSAGES. hauling North across the belt of variables to the southward of the trades, at right angles, and be upon the safe side, after reaching the trades, at any season of the year. A good passage could, perhaps, be made by sailing on a circle course from the Atlantic to a good position relative with Java Head, in the Indian Ocean, say 95° E. and 33° S. ; but the vertex should be far South of 53°, or thereabout. And I should not feel justified in attempting to pursue such a route, until we have some definite information relative to the existence of danger from ice, against which Horsburgh cautions navigators. Navigators, by taking the old route, are liable to meet with another diffi- culty, especially when they attempt to run down their longitude near the parallel of 35° — 6° S. About this parallel is a famous place for circular storms— cyclones. They revolve with the sun, and the parallel of 35°— 6° ia frequently traversed by the southern edge of them ; consequently, as these storms travel East or West, the wind on the southern edge of them is gene- rally from the eastward." Thus far Captain Maury, to which two remarks may be appended, the one on the dangers from ice in high southern latitudes, the other on the occurrence of cyclones in the lower parallels. The frequency of ice and its peculiarities in the Southern Indian Ocean is dwelt upon in our Directory for the Indian Ocean, pages 86 — 91, and it is there shown that the drifts attain a lower latitude in the southern winter than at other seasons, nearly approaching the Cape of Good Hope in July to September, but then it is considered that they leave a clear space to the southward. In January to March they are not frequently encountered north- ward of 55° S. In the same work the question of the occurrence of cyclones on the paral- lels indicated is discussed, and to those pages the reader is referred. There can be no doubt but these revolving storms do sometimes attain these latitudes after recurving from the northward, and passing to the east- ward. Should the well-known indications of these meteors be clearly ascer- tained, of course it behoves the commander to seek that edge of the disk (the northern edge), which will help him forward on his voyage, rather than be opposed by the contrary gales on its southern margins. But it is argued by some that these gales are generally not revolving, but are right lined winds, or so slightly curved in their paths that they cannot be classed as cyclones. Upon this topic see pages 12, 13, of the Indian Ocean Directory — the whole subject and its application being given in pages 5 to 17, and 151 to 159. To the two opinions given above, as to the best parallel for running down the easting after passing round the Cape of Good Hope, we may add that of Mr. Towson, whose labours on this subject are well known. It is true that his object was to shorten the road to Australia, and therefore the tracks lie ATIANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 49 to the southward of that great continent ; but they will hold good equally for that which diverges to the northward before reaching this eastern exten- sion. He chooses the parallel of 51° S. for passing across the Southern Indian Ocean to the southward of Kerguelen Land. With all deference to these great authorities, may it not be that all are right, if their views are followed in different seasons. It would seem to be quite natural that a lower latitude would carry all the advantages during the winter season that a high parallel does in the summer. The limits between the trade winds and the westerly anti-trades certainly vibrates in latitude with the progress of the sun in the ecliptic ; and therefore, during the in- clement winter, the Admiralty parallel of 39° — 40° may be quite as advan- tageous (except as regards the distance to be run) as the probably more bois- terous but shorter course in higher latitude. Aguiii, in the summer months the parallels advocated by Maury and Towson may certainly be safely fol- lowed ; but in this, also, some other considerations may enter. The sailing powers of the ship, the nature of her cargo, and the health of the crew and passengers (especially if the latter be an important item in the account) would lead the commander to hesitate before he would carry his vessel into climates very much colder than that he has recently left, and which he will soon enter again, and where he will probably meet with heavy winds and turbulent seas. As has been said above, the point does not appear to be entirely decided, nor can it be so when each ship may, from motives of expediency, require different handling. The above facts and opinions are given, and the com- mander must make his own choice of them. For pursuing the voyage to the northward, the following is given in the Admiralty Directions. In the South-east Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of April to the middle of September, vessels, having passed the island of St. Paul, should not edge away too quickly to the northward, but should endeavour to reach first as far to the eastward into the S.E. trade wind as the meridian of Java Head, crossing the southern tropic in about 102° E. In this season a westerly current runs along the South coast of Java, and in the months of June, July, and August, when it is at its greatest strength, it will be indispensable to be well to the eastward, or otherwise the ship will be liable to fall to leeward of Java Head. In the vicinity of Java the S.E. monsoon also veers some- times to East or E.N.E. In the North-west Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of October to the mid- dle of March, but especially in December and January, the southern tropic should be crossed several degrees to the westward of the meridian of Java Head, when a direct course can be steered for Sunda Strait, or to make En- gano Island, or the land about Flat Point, the southern extreme of Sumatra. Great care must be taken during this monsoon not to fall to leeward of Java Head, for the westerly winds blow with great violence along the South coast I. A. ii 60 PASSAGES. of Java, and their strength, united with the strong current setting to the eastward, make it impracticable to beat up along this coast ; a vessel may thus have to steer to the southward, and re-enter the S.E. trade, in order to make sufficient westing to fetch Flat Point. When nearly on the parallel of Java Head, and one or two degrees to the westward of it, a direct course may be steered for the Strait, with an allowance for a probable current setting to the southward. If contrary winds are met with shortly after leaving St. Paul Island, in November, December, or January, a vessel may steer at once to the north- ward, and cross the tropic in 80° or 90° E., when she will meet with westerly winds to carry her to the strait. Shifting of the Monsoons.— During the period when these changes occur, i.e., from about the middle of September to the end of October, and from about the middle of March to the end of April, the winds are variable and uncertain. It is advisable at those times to make sufficient easting in the S.E. trade to bring Java Head nearly North, and then to steer direct for it, borrowing a little to the eastward or westward, when it is approached, as may be required by the prevailing wind or other circumstances. 2.— SOUTHERN INDIA TO THE STEAITS OF MALACCA. In the S.W. Monsoon. — In this, the fair wind season, there is no great difficulty in making a passage around the South end of Ceylon, or from Madras, or any of the Coromandel ports. Having passed Ceylon, steer so as to pass, in lat. 6° 20' N., through the channel between Pulo Eondo and the South end of the Great Nicobar. If the monsoon be strong from southern quarters, and the weather overcast, so that there may be some uncertainty in the latitude for want of observations, keep southward towards Acheen Head, to guard against the chance of a northerly current. But great caution is necessary in such weather, because, should the wind have had much westing in it, it may have caused a south-westerly current down the West coast of Sumatra, Such a contingency must be guarded against when it is neared in dark, stormy weather. Acheen is generally best made from the southward at this season, passing with great precaution either through the Surat Passage iwithin the islands, or, which is better, northward of Pulo Brasse, by the Bengal Passage. Bound through the strait, and having passed the islands off Acheen Head, which is then best to be avoided, stand on towards Pulo Bouton, on the eastern side of the Strait of Malacca, because, as has been before explained, the high land of the Pedir Coast, intercepting the monsoon, causes light baffling winds all along the Sumatra side. When Pulo Bouton is made bearing to eastward, you may be able to carry brisk westerly winds up to Pulo Penang. Should the winds be light, a northerly current may be STRAITS OF MALACCA TO SOUTHERN INDIA. 51 encountered setting out of the entrance to the strait, and this may set the ship to northward of Pulo Bouton ; but when once the islands on the Malay coast are made, there will be no difficulty in getting along that coast to the S.E. Keep within a moderate di^stance of the coast, in 35 to 20 fathoms, making for the Sambilangs, carefully avoiding the mud bank off the coast between Penang and Pulo Binding, in lat. 4° 14' N. The outer edge of this, as is shown in the subsequent descriptions, is steep-to, shoaling suddenly from 10 and 8 fathoms to 9 ft. in some parts, and it must therefore not be neared into less than 12 to 15 fathoms. Passing between the steep, rocky Sambilangs and the isolated Pulo Jarra, in the middle of the strait, which is perfectly clean with the deepest water in the strait around it, you make for the West end of the North Sands, those dangerous shoals which run parallel with the coast, but which danger is much diminished by the light- ship on the One-fathom Bank, between the North and South sands. Should you meet with an adverse wind when up with the Sambilangs, keep along the Perak coast in moderate depths, not less than 10 or 11 fathoms, as there may be a useful counter-tide and good anchorage in doing so. Having arrived at the One-fathom Bank and its lightship, and sighted the Arroa Islands, there will be no difficulty in getting up to Singapore, as shown in the subsequent descriptions. In the N.E. Monsoon. — The passage to the eastward against this fine weather monsoon is tedious and lingering. Having passed Ce^-lon, it is best to keep to the northward, passing between the Nicobar Islands and the Little Andaman ; or, if from Madras, through the Sonibreiro Channel. Those from Ceylon should keep well in with the South end of the Great Nicobar, if the wind will permit, in entering the strait. But should you get drifted to leeward of Pulo Brasse, enter it by the Surat Passage, around Acheen Head. When past Acheen Head, a westerly current will be en- countered running along the coast between that and Diamond Point ; but in the offing and on the Malay side it sets more or less to the northward throughout the ^ear. Therefore, when within the strait, get away from the {Sumatra coast, and try to gain the Malay side, where there are more favourable winds, tidal streams, and the alternating land and sea breezes by which you may work to the S.E. 3.— STRAITS OF MALACCA TO SOUTHERN INDIA. In the S.W. Monsoon. — It is best to keep on the Sumatra side of the Malacca Strait in going westward during this monsoon, because there is an eddy current at its entrance on that side, especially along the Pedir Coast. Having, by means of every shift of wind and this favouring drift got up to Acheen Head, pass between Pulo Way and Pulo Brasse by the Bengal Passage, keeping close to the latter island and around the islets at its North S2 PASSAGES. end. If bound to Madras the passage will be very tedious, and every slant of wind must be zealously taken advantage of. If bound for Ceylon or the western ports, and having cleared Acheen Head, make for the southward, keeping off the islands along the West coast of Sumatra as far as possible. Having crossed the equator, and got into the S.E. trades, run down your westing till up with the meridian of the port of destination. Then bear up northward, and if bound to Point de Galle, make the land of Ceylon to the westward ; or, if to Trincomalee or the East coast, make the S.E. part of the island, for strong westerly winds and very violent easterly currents prevail about the South part of Ceylon at this season. This passage to the eastward, during the adverse monsoon, is seldom at- tempted if it can be avoided, and unless a vessel can keep well on the wind it may be very difficult. In the N.E. Monsoon. — There is do difficulty in this passage. Keep on the Malay coast until up with Junkseylon, and then steer so as to pass be- tween Car Nicobar and the South end of the Little Andaman, if early in the season. If bound noi'thward of Madras, either the above or the Sombreiro Passage may be chosen, taking care to make the coast to the northward of the destined port. 4.-SUNDA STEAIT TO BANKA STEAIT. Having passed through Sunda Strait, for which directions will be given in the subsequent pages, and bound to Banka Strait, it is usual to steer a direct course for the Two Brothers. With a working wind, it will be prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the Sumatra coast; 11 or 12 fathoms ia a good depth. A good mark in daylight is, when standing in-shore, to tack when North Island is just on with the highest Zutphen Island ; the sound- ings will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and a large ship should not risk a less depth when working between North Island and the Swallow Eock, which she will pass eastward of, if the South Brother is not brought east- ward of N. by E. Although the space between the Thousand Islands and the Two Brothers can be navigated with more confidence since its partial examination by Com- mander Bullock, in H.M.S. Serpent, in 1865, yet, as no complete survey has been made, the mariner is recommended to proceed with caution. The Brothers may be passed at a prudent distance on either side. On passing to the eastward, take care to avoid the Lynn and Brouwers Eeefs ; and when passing between the islands and the Shahbundar Banks, a vessel should not keep larther from the islands than 3 miles, and not nearer the coast of Su- matra than the depth of 9 fathoms. Having passed the Brothers, steer to the northward towards Lucipara, BANKA STRAIT TO SUNDA STRAIT. 63 keeping the Brothers to the westward of South, to avoid the reported posi- tion of the Clifton shoal, and endeavouring to keep in soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms, as a direct course cannot be depended upon, on account of irre- gular currents or tides setting out from the rivers. Neither can the sound- ings in this track be implicitly trusted to, being irregular, from 8^ to 11 or 12 fathoms in some places, particularly contiguous to Tree Island bank, and the edges of the other banks projecting from the coast of Sumatra, also in the vicinity of the Arend and Boreas banks in the offing. It will be, how- ever, prudent to borrow towards the main if the depths increase to 12 or 13 fathoms ; and to haul off from it if they decrease to 8A or 9 fathoms towards the banks that line the coast. Near these the soundings are generally hard and more irregular than farther out from the land, in 12 or 13 fathoms ; but, in the latter depths, a ship will be too far off the coast with a westerly ■wind. When the weather is clear, during the day, it may be proper to get a sight of the coast from the poop of a large ship at times, edging out occasionally in the night, or when the depths decrease to 8J or 9 fathoms. Having passed the bank off Tree Island, the coast may be approached with greater safety, and the depth will decrease, regularly steering northward for Lucipara, to 6| fathoms, when it bears N. ^ E. about 10 miles. If at night a vessel should come into shallow water between the Two Brothers and Lucipara, and not being certain whether she is on either the Arend or Boreas banks, or the bank off the coast of Sumatra, it is advisable to anchor immediately, and to wait for daylight, for the depths are moderate, and the bottom throughout this track generally favourable for that pur- pose. 5.— BANKA STRAIT TO SUNDA STRAIT. When bound from Banka Strait to that of Sunda, the proper course will be about S. by E., keeping in from 9 to 13 fathoms ; but the currents are too variable to trust implicitly to any course, and the depths also are top irregular to depend on them alone, for the 5 and 4^ fathoms Boreas and Arend banks may be easily mistaken for those south-eastward of Tree Island, which are very dangerous. It will therefore be advisable in day- time to keep on the Sumatra side in 8 or 9 fathoms, from which depths that shore is generally visible from the deck, and at night to keep off shore when the water shoals to less than 9 fathoms, and to approach it when it deepens to more than 13 fathoms, as that depth with westerly winds would be too far off. Having arrived in about 3° 40' S., or about 30 miles distant from the Two Brothers, keep as nearly as possible in 9 or 10 fathoms, so as to get sight of these islands bearing South, but not to the eastward of that bearing in order to avoid the Clifton Shoal ; otherwise, if made when in 1 1 fathoms, it would 54 PASSAGES. be difficult to weather them with a westerly wind, especially as the current runs to the south-eastward during the western monsoon. When passing to the eastward of the Two Brothers, recollect the Brouwers and Lynn Eeefs. Coming from the northward the Two Brothers appear like one island, and hence some vessels have been led into danger by mistaking Mound Imbong, or Knob-hill, in Sumatra, when seen in the twilight, for these islands. Sail- ing past these islands at night, the vessel's position should be well ascertained before dark, or else it would be better to anchor. Having passed on either side of the Brothers, the safest bearing to bring them upon appears to be N. ^ E. After losing sight of them upon that bearing, a course about S. by W. may be steered for the entrance of Sunda Strait. Captain Ste-phens, of the shi-p ffarkawat/, says: — "In May, approaching Sunda Strait from the eastward the Java side should be steered for, and kept aboard, as then the winds are light, those from S.E. prevailing at night, and from N.E. during the day ; this precaution will prevent the vessel being carried by the current to the westward of the Button Islet ; this current runs constantly to the S. W. in the middle of the strait, it is checked by the short flood, but runs strong with a long ebb." 6.-BANKA STEAIT TO SINGAPORE. Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore seldom adopt the O uter route to the eastward of the islands of Linga and Bintang, most vessels pre- ferring to proceed by Ehio Strait ; it, however, forms part of the main route into the China Sea, and is therefore of great importance. Outer Eoute. — The ordinary route for vessels bound northward is be- tween the Toejoe Islands and Pulo Taya ; they may, however, pass on either eide of Pulo Taya, which, being high and bold, is very convenient to make in thick weather or at night. At night, or in thick weather, the lead will be very useful in detecting the drift caused by cross currents between the Toejoe Islands and Sumatra, for the depth decreases generally towards Sumatra, and increases towards those islands ; but care should be taken in approaching them, as the remarkable irregularities of the currents have brought many vessels into the danger of being entangled among them. Near Sumatra a mud bottom mixed with Band prevails, and near the islands mud only. The Castor Bank, lying to the N.E. of Pulo Taya, carries not less than 5 fathoms water, but a vessel will pass eastward of it by not bringing Pulo Taya South of S.W. ^ W., and westward of it by keeping that island South of S.S.W. ^ W. The East point of Linga (which, with a point to the w^est- ward of it, appears at a distance like two islands) bearing N.N.W. will lead from 4 to 5 miles to the N.E. both of the Castor Bank and the Ilchester Shoal. But in order to avoid the last-named danger, if the channel between SINGAPOEE TO HONG KONG. 55 the Castor Bank and Linga is used, take care not to bring the East point of Linga to the East of North. Having passed eastward of Pule Taya, a course may be steered to cross the equator in 20 or 21 fathoms, or in long. 106° 30' E. From the equator steer about North until past the Frederick and Oeldria shoals, observing in the night not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms between lat. 0° 30' and 0° 50' N. to avoid those dangers ; if it be day when Pulo Euig or Ragged Island ia seen, keep it westward of N.W., and it will lead eastward of these shoals. When abreast of Pulo Panjang, and in soundings of 24 or 25 fathoms water, a N.W. or N.W. by W. course, according to tide, will lead to the entrance of Singapore Strait. The Inner Route, by the Strait of Rhio, will be noticed in connection with the description of the coast of the strait hereafter given, as the various marks, &c., will be best understood by referring to those descriptions. Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore during the strength of the N.E. monsoon frequently adopt the Inner Route by the Varella and Durian Straits. During the prevalence of strong northerly winds in the months of December and January, sailing vessels will save much time by doing so, for here they will have smooth water, good anchorage, and but little tide, whereas on the eastern side of Linga, at this season of the year, there ia generally a heavy sea, and a southerly current sometimes running at the rate of 3 knots an hour. In Yarella Strait they will also be greatly assisted by the squalls from the Sumatra coast. Varella, or Brahalla Strait, is situated at the southern part of this route, and Durian Strait at its northern part ; the intermediate portion has not received a specific denomination. The entire route is about 120 miles in length from Pulo Varella to the Carimon Islands, and is bounded on the western side by the coast of Sumatra, False Durian, Sabon, and the con- tiguous islands ; and on the eastern side by Sinkep and the other islands off the South and West coasts of Linga, and by Great and Little Durian, and the adjacent islands. The Strait of Malacca and Strait of Singapore, and their navigation, will be also described in subsequent pages. 7.— SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG. In South-west Monsoon. — When June approaches, and the S.W. mon- soon is set regularly in, the track from Singapore to China by the main route^ eastward of Pulo Sapatu and over Macclesfield Bank, is preferable, the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast. About full and change of the moon, and as early as April, a westerly breeze will sometimes be found blowing out of the Gulf of Siam to carry a vessel to Macclesfield Bank, and afterwards easterly winds to run her to Hong Kong. 56 PASSAGES. Thia route becomes precarious if a sailing vessel is not up with Pulo Sapatu early in October ; for near this island, about the middle of that mouth, strong southerly currents begin to prevail with light northerly winds, variable airs, and calms, by which many vessels have been delayed lor several days, and have made no progress to the northward. Fresh winds from the southward have been met with, even so late as 1st of November, but these instances are rare. Some vessels proceeding by the main route have carried strong S.W. and southerly winds, when others taking the inner route have at the same time experienced N.W. and westerly gales blowing out of the Gulf of Tong King, with dark weather and rain, and have been in danger of being driven among the Paracel Eeefs ; the inner route ought, however, to be chosen in the strength of the S.W. monsoon if the vessel is weak and making much water, for the sea will be smooth, and being near the land she may reach an an- chorage if required. The gales out of the gulf are not frequent, and the land may be kept in sight nearly all the time. Taking the inner route, steer from Pulo Aor along the coast to the Eedang Islands, thence across the Gulf of Siam, and along the coasts of Cambodia and Cochin China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Touron. From thence Bteer for the S.W. part of Hainan, coasting along this island, and passing between it and the Taya Islands ; then cross over to make the coast of China about Tien-pak, or Hailing Island. The islands from thence to Hong Kong may be coasted along at discretion, or shelter may be found amongst them on an emergency. If this route is taken before the middle of March or 1st of April, the passage will be tedious unless the vessel is a good sailer. Bound to Hong Kong in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, with the wind steady between S.E. and S.W., endeavour to make the Great Ladrone Island bearing about North, then steer between it and the Kypong Islands, and between Lingting and the Lema Islands, for the West Lamma Channel. After the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail seve- ral days together, as they are more or less at all seasons, it will be necessary to make the N.E. head of the Lema Islands, and proceed in by the Lema Channel, towards the West Lamma Channel. The East Lamma Channel is also safe in both monsoons, for although the water is deep, if the wind falls light it is safe to anchor in, and there is little or no tide. In North-east Monsoon. — Sailing vessels leaving Singapore for China in February, March, and part of April, may expect a tedious beating passage, if they adopt the main route. In March, April, or May, they can proceed by the inner route along the Coast of Cochin China, which is generally the most expeditious route in these months. The passage to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luzon may be fol- lowed late in the S.W. monsoon ; without much difElculty in October and SINGAPOEE TO HONQ KONG. 57 November ; and it is now often made in December, January, and at every period of the N.E. mcnsoou.* In December, January, and February,! sailing vessels should not leave the entrance of Singapore Strait, in strong N.E. winds, but anchor on the northern shore, under the Water Islands, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In those months gales often occur at new and full moon ; the weather is then thick, the rain lasting two or three days, and the current outside accelerates to the S.S.E. ^ E. from 2^ to 3 knots an hour. A vessel leaving the strait then, instead of fetching St. Barbe Island, would fall bodily to leeward, and have to work up the West coast of Borneo. Fine weather follows, the wind backing round to North and N. W. ; the current in the offing decreasing in strength to about 1 i knot. Leave the Water Islands with the first of the ebb, and keep clean full. Stand to the north-eastward to go through the channel between Subi Island and the Great Natuna ; a passage that may without much difficulty be made, in these months especially, at full and change, when the wind, after • It was formerly the general custom for the clipper vessels employed in the opiuni trade hetween India and China to beat up the middle of the China Sea in the strength of the N.E. monsoon, keeping as close to the western edges of the reefs as possible, where the current was found to be generally in their favour. Many commanders who have been accustomed to make their passages in that way are strongly of opinion that it is the best route for vessels later in the season than the month of November, whilst others who have been accustomed to proceed by the Palawan have just as strong opinions in favour of that route. The following remarks of Mr. T. B. White, who was for many years in command of clipper vessels engaged in the opium trade, appear to be exceedingly valuable, inasmuch as thej' furnish a balanced opinion on the respective advantages of these routes. He says : " I am sorry I cannot say much from experience in oeating up the Palawan in a sailing vessel, for during the entire period of my command of the Lanrick I never once went that way, but always along the western edges of the shoals. I am, however, now quite certain that I should have often made much quicker passages, and saved much wear and tear, by going up the Palawan. In the Fiery Cross, although a powerful steamer, I found it pre- ferable to take the Palawan, and always did so during the strength of the N.E. monsoon (November to February), saving fuel and wear and tear ; and, though a longer route, mads better passages by getting smooth water and often favourable currents. I believe nearly all heavily laden ships now take the Palawan from October until the end of February in preference to the outer passage, and a current to the north-eastward is generally felt the nearer the Borneo coast is kept aboard, and usually the weather is moderate, with a rolling beam swell on ; at l^ast that has been m.y experience when going up in the steamer, Mr. Eeynell, in the clipper Waterwitch, usually took the Palawan in the N.E. monsoon, and made some very good passages. Now that it is so thoroughly well surveyed, I consider it quite as safe as the outer passage." t These directions (as far eastward as the Natuna Islands) apply with equal force to vessels bound either to the Gulf of Siam or the River Saigon. They have been compiled chiefly from " Sailing Directions between Singapore and the River Saigon, by Mr. A. J. LoituR, commanding the ship Kensington," by Commander J. W. King, E.N. I. A. t 58 PASSAGES. a few hours' calm, frequently hauls to the westward with squalls and rain, and then veers round to S.W. and South, blowing moderately for 2^ hours. By taking avantage of these slants, Subi may be easily weatliered, and the intricate channels between it and the N.W. coast of Borneo avoided. After fetching Low Island, in long. 107° 48' E., if the wind continues easterly, take the starboard tack to the northward, passing westward of Low Island, keeping not less than 3 miles from the south-western side, to avoid the shoal water as far as 2 miles from its shore. Q-ive Haycock a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing, as the coral shoal about that island extends fully 3 miles from its S.W. side. Large ships should not pass eastward of Haycock at night, as this locality is said to have hidden danger. Alter passing Haycock there will be no difficulty in working up to the S.E. point of the Great Natuna, as that island, when approaching it from the S.W., shelters against the strong N.E. current of the monsoon. Off its southern shore at night, in fine weather, the wind is ofi" the land, which should not be appi'oached nearer than 2 or 3 miles without a good breeze, as the water is deep close in-shore, and no good anchorage. Vessels fetching to leeward of Subi with a northerly wind should take the Koti Passa'2;e, between Pulo Panjung and Sirhassen Island. The Sirhassen Passage is also a good channel, and quite safe when the South side of Sirhassen Island is kept aboard. The currents among these islands are more regular ; but not so in the Api Passage, where they set in various directions, and with great velocity to the S.W. from 16 to 19 hours at a time ; for large ships any of the other passages are preferable to this, for great caution and perseverance are requisite in working through, as the Borneo coast in from 10 to 11 fathoms water must be kept aboard to avoid the cur- rent and profit by the land winds.* In taking the Koti Passage, give Pulo Panjung a good berth to avoid the * For steam vessels (especially those of small power) proceeding; to China by the Palawan passage against the N.E. monsoon, the route by the Api Passage and the coast of Borneo presents the following advantages : hrst, light, variable winds and smooth water will often be found close to the Borneo coast, when a strong monsoon is blowing a hundred miles off it ; and next the Api passage route affords convenient landmarks to lead a vessel safely and expeditiously to the entrance of the Palawan ; whereas by the ordinary route much diffi- culty and delay frequently occurs in making Low Island, and in passing between the Royal Charlotte and Louisa iShoals. Steamers leaving Singapore should pass southward of Victory Island, then steer to sight the small island of St. Pierre (carefully observing and allowing lor the set of the current), and afterwards for the Api Passage, keeping over towards Marundiim Island rather than Api Point. Ha\'ing passed Marundum and Data Point, the course is cl^ar up to the en- trance of the Palawan, passing between the South Luconia shoals and Barram Point, and keeping as close to the Borneo coast until abreast of that point as circumstances may make convenient.— Navigating-Lieutenant J. W. Reed, commanding Her Majesty's surveying vessel Itifleman, 1866. SINGAPOEE TO HOXG KONG. 59 dangerous reef wliich suirouudB it. The winds amongsst these islands, aud as far eastward as the meiidian of Cape iSirik, are generally from Nurth to N.N.W. The passage cleared, proceed to the north-eastward; endeavour- ing, if not ct-rtaiu oi the longitude, to make the Royal Charlotte or Louisa IStioal, whichever is the weathermost, by running on its parallel of latitude ; and as the currents appear to be influenced by the prevailing winds, vessels sduuld bt; prepared to anticipate a set in the direction in which it is blowing, tiie velocity of the current being proportionate to the force of the wind. Having made either the Royal Churlotte or Lcjuisa Shoals, on passing mid-channel between them, steer E. by N. 100 miles, aud then about N.E. for lat. 8° N., long. 116° 15' E., when Balabac Peak will probably be seen bearing about east-southerly, and making like a r.ither flat-topped island, with a small peak rising in the centre ; when about 40 miles distant from the island, the low hills may be seen on either side of the peak, having at first the appearance of detached islands. Having brought Balabac Peak to bear about E.S.E. at the above distance, a N.N.E. f E. course should be steered, when the high land of Bulanhow will soon be discernible, bearing about N.E. by E. f E. This course should lead about 6 miles eastward of the reported Roger Breakers, 10 miles west- ward of the elbow of the bank of soundings fronting Palawan Island, and midway between the Ro_)al CapiHUi Shoal and the edge of the bank (the most dangerous part of the channel). When Bulanhow Mountain bears fcj.E. by E. I E. the vessel will be in line with it and the Royal Oiptain Shoal, and in the narrowest part of the channel, which is 27f miles wide, and the high land of Alantaleengaliau will then bear E. i S. If the wind be well to the southward, and the weather thick, Balabac Island may be approached nearer, in order to get well hold of the land, but extreme caution sliould be taken not to go within 12 miles of it, as sound- ings of 26 and 20 fathoms extend that distance off, in a westerly direction from the peak, having shoal patches immediately inside them. If the wind be to the westward, with thick cloudy weather, Balabac Island should nut be approached nearer than 36 miles, for these winds usually force a strong current tiirough the straits to the eastward, and when off the S.W. end of PaLiwau, it is not unusual for them, particularly in squalls, to veer to W.N.W., and sometimes N.W., blowing with great violence, aud placing the vessel on a lee shore with respect to the shoals inside the ed^e of the bank. It generally so happens, that about the time, September and October, when vessels adopt the i'alawan route, this weather prevails off the S.W. end of Palawan, rendering it uncertain and uiffivuit to hit the narrowest part \>f the channel, owing to the laud being ob- scured, especially if neither the Royal Charlotte nor the Louisa Shoal has been made, aud the longitude corrected. Uuder these circumstances, it is advisable to advance with caution, regu- 60 PASSAGES. lating the speed of the vessel so as to be in the fairway, viz., lat. 8° N., long. 116° 15' E., for making the channel at daylight. Horsburgh recommends lat. 8° 30' N., and long. 116° 30' E., but this may be running too close at night, unless confident of the accuracy of the reckoning. If not certain of the vessel's position, endeavour to get soundings on the edge of the bank to the north-westward of Balabac Island, and the safest part to approach for this purpose is that about the elbow, on the parallel of 8° 30° N., or immediately to the southward of it, for it is believed the portion of the bank whicli is embraced by the bearings of Balabac Peak, S.E. by E. ^ E. and S.S.E., comprising a distance of 25 miles, is free from danger. If the peak be obscured, the same bearings of the body of the island will, if taken with care, answer. Or should the North extreme of the island be discernible (showing like a hillock, with a low double hill to the southward), the part of no danger will be included within the lines of bearing of it, East and S.S.E. | E. During the period in which the Eoyalist was engaged upon this survey, experience led to the belief that in the thickest weather the land is seldom totally obscured for any length of time. Having obtained soundings, which will be about 90 fathoms, if close to the edge of the bank, and from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand, if inside, haul off to the north-westward, to give the edge a berth of about 10 miles, then steer the channel course N.N.E. f E. When Bulanhow Mountain bears eastward of E. by N. ^ N., the elbow has been passed, and the bank then trends N.E. by N. It is between the elbow and the parallel of 9° 15' N. (a distance of 60 miles) on the East, and the Half Moon, Eoyal Captain, and Bombay Shoals on the West, that the most dangerous part of the Passage lies. When Montaleengahan Mountain bears S.E. ^ E., or the Pagoda Cliff, (generally seen when the more elevated land is obscured), S.E. ^ S., the vessel will be on the line of the Bombay Shoal, where the channel is 28 miles broad. Having passed the Bombay Shoal, abreast of which the bank trends N.E. ^ N., steer a course parallel with its edge, preserving a distance of 8 or 12 miles from it, and 27 or 30 miles from the land, or nearer, if convenient, and the peaks on Palawan are sufficiently distinct to get good cross bearings. It is, however, not desirable to get too close, as the edge of the bank in about the parallels of 9° 30' and 10° N., is not uniform in its outline, and several rocky patches lie within a mile, and in some places only 3 cables* lengths from the 100 fathoms line. This N.E. A N. course, edging a little more to the northward when abreast of Ulugan Bay, where the bank extends 28 miles from the shore, will take a vessel through the passage clear of every known danger. Vessels working through the Palawan Passage, having conformed to the directions given for making the S.W. end of Palawan, should, in fine weather, endeavour to make their inshore boards in the afternoon, for the SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG. 61 8un then being astern of the vessel, the patches lying near the edge of the bank will generally be distinguished from the mast-head in ample time to tack off. In squally weather, also, during heavy rains, these patches have been observed imparting a yellowish hue to the surface of the water. It is almost needless to remind the seaman (when the land is obscured) of the desirableness of getting hold of the edge of the bank before dark, in order that he may have a good departure for the night ; and on making his inshore board, it must also be borne in mind, that the probability of coming suddenly into soundings is great, as the approach on this tack will generally be at right angles to the edge of the bank. He should therefore be prepared to go round immediately on getting indication of soundings. Proceeding northerly from the Palawan Passage, it is customary to beat up the West coast of Luzon to Piedra Point, and thence direct for Macao or Hong Kong, passing leeward of the Pratas. But if bound to any of the ports northward, much time might be saved by passing along the eastern coast of Formosa, thereby avoiding the heavy labour, wear, and loss of time, by the attempt to work against the monsoon along the coast of China, which even a clipper sometimes fails in effecting. In working along the Luzon coast, particularly about dawn or sunset, less sea, and much lighter winds, and at times even land breezes will be ex- perienced by hugging the coast by short boards ; but great caution should be observed, particularly between Piedra Point and Cape Bojeador, as several coastline dangers do not find a place in the charts. The first strong gust of the monsoon will be experienced on clearing Cape Bojeador, but this should not induce the navigator to stand further westward than will enable him to make his eastern stretch to weather it, when he will at once experience less wind. This generally is the case on all lee shores backed by mountains, either resulting from obstruction, reaction, or the effect probably, after sunset, of counteracting land winds. Among the groups northward of Luzon there are no dangers which are not easily avoided, and no continuous strong breezes will be experienced, at all com- parable in force, or attended by high sea, similar to those which prevail between Piedra Point and Hong Kong. On the contrary, good working breezes, and at times light winds prevail, enabling a sailing vessel of mode- rate speed to make the range of 6 degrees northing in 8 days. Typhoons are likely to happen in both monsoons between the North coast of Luzon and Formosa. 8.— HONG KONG TO SINGAPORE, ETC. In North-east Monsoon. — Ships bound from China to Singapore, or to the Straits of Gaspar and Banka, should in March and April adopt the main route by the Macclesfield Bank, which is the most expeditious in thesa 62 PASSAGES. months, keeping to the eastward on leaving the China Coast ; and also in passing Pulo Sapatu they ought to borrow to the eastward towards the fihoals, where the winds are more favourable in these months than farther to the westward. In April, the Vansittart, by keeping about 3 degrees more to the eastward than the Herefordshire, made as much progress in one day as the latter did in ten.* At all other times, the inner route by the coast of Cochin China seems preferable ; for it is the shorter, and the ease afforded to ships by steering from the Grand Ladrone immediately before the wind, when blowing strong at N.E., is a great advantage ; whereas, by the main route, a S.S.E. course is shaped for the Macclesfield Bank, often bringing the wind and sea before the beam, which strains a deeply-laden ship. Many have strained so much, that, in order to gain upon the pumps, they were forced to bear away for the inner ro)ite ; others, by persevering in the main route, have laboured excessively, and some of them at last foundered with their crews. Some of the ships which, after leaving China, have been missing, have probably suffered from the same cause. Had those ships, on leaving Canton River, steered S.S.W. h W. or S.S.W. I W., the direct course for the inner route, they probably would not have strained in the least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety. Vessels may, according to circumstances, pass either to the eastward or westward of the Catwick Islands and Pulo Ceicer de Mer, or thin^ugh any of the channels between them ; but since the Rawson Shoal is known to have no existence, it would seem advisable, in thick weather, to pass 20 or 30 miles eastward of Pulo Sapatu, especially at night : from thence, passing westward of the Charlotte Bank and the Anamba Islands, steer to make Pulo Aor. Should the weather be thick, and a fresh breeze blowing, when near Pulo Aor, round to under its lee, and wait a convenient time to bear up for the * Captain Stephens says : — " Vessels leaving the coast of China or Manilla, and bound towards Sunda Strait, in March, April, or in the early part of May, may expect a tedious passage down the China Sea if proceeding by the old route which passes Pulo Sapatu, par- ticularly if they do not sail before the 5th or 10th of April. Whereas, if the track be taken alono- the coast of Luzon, down the Palawan Passage, along the coast of Borneo, past Direction Island, round Soruetou, and through the Carimata Strait, passing close round the North Watcher, and on for St. Nicholas Point on Java, they are likely to carry easterly winds, with fine weather and a smooth sea, the whole distance, thus making a direct course, and will avoid calms. The current will also be more favourable than otherwise until May is well advanced. To prove the advantages of the eastern route, it may be stated, that in April, 1861, two American ships sailed fram Fu-chau-fu; one proceeded by Pulo Sapatu on the West side of the China Sea, the other by the Palawan Passage and Carimata Strait ; the letter ship passed Anjer twenty days before the other. The Harkaway, on her passage in Aonl and May, 1862, carried an easterly wind the whole way down, and had no occasion to anchor." SINGAPOEE TO GULF OF SIAM AND TO SAIGON. 63 strait.* The current between tliis island and the East point of Bintang sets about S.S.E., by which it often happens that vessels leaving Pulo Aor steer too much southerly, and are swept with the current and the ebb tide coming out of the strait, so far to leeward of Bintang, that they have been obliged to proceed round it, and come up through Rliio Strait, In March, during the latter part of this munsoon, the winds are steady from the eastward, the weather settled, and the current weak. In April the prevailing winds are also from the eastward, and are much lighter and ac- companied with calms and squally weather ; from the latter end of this mouth to about the middle of May the monsoon gradually breaks up. In South- West Moxsoox.— Captain Blake, of H.M.S. Lame, remarks: — Although formerly considered impracticable, it is now a common practice for ships to work down the China Sea at all periods of the S. W. monsoon. After leaving Hong Kong, the usual course is to stand towards Hainan, which will be often fetched without tacking, as the wind frec^uently blows for days together from the S.E. or eastward in that part of the China Sea ; from thence across the Gulf of Tong King to the Cochin China coast. Land and sea breezes and smooth water generally prevail close to that coast, for which reason it is usual to work down as close to the shore as possible, taking advantage of every slant of wind, but being careful not to get too far off the land. It is sometimes possible to get as far to the southward as Cape Padaran in this way, but generally after passing Cape Yarela the monsoon is found blowing very fresh, with frequent hard squalls out of the Gulf of Siam, rendering it impassible for a ship to do much to windward. From Cape Varela, or from Cape Padaran, if a vessel has been able to fetch it, stretch away to the southward — making a tack, if necessary, to weather the Arest London or other shoals — till the coast of Borneo is reached, along which work, and pass out through any of the South Natuna channels. Stand across to Singapore, keeping well to the southward before closing Bintang, to be sure of your landfall, as the currents run very strong, sometimes 2 miles an hour to the northward. 9.-SINGAP0RE TO GULF OF SIAM AND TO SAIGON. In Noeth-East Monsoon. — Sailing vessels bound from Singapore to the Gulf of Siam in the N.E. monsoon generally pass eastward of the Natuna Islands. Smart sailing vessels proceed between the Anamba and Natuna Islands, and endeavour to make Pulo Obi ; they then steer for Pulo Dama, if bound to Kamput, in the Gulf of Siam ; or outside Pulo Panjang and Pulo Way, direct for Cape Liant, if bound to Bangkok. In February and March it frequently happens that vessels fall in with an easterly wind off Pulo Aor that takes them right up to Pulo Obi. — Captain Loftus. * Since the edtablishment of the Horsburg light on Pedra Branca, there is really now no difiBculty in making Singapore Strait at any time, with proper attention. 64 PASSAGES. The directions given on page 55 for proceeding from Singapore to Hong Kong apply also to vessels bound to the Gulf of Siam or to Saigon, until they have arrived to the eastward of the Natuna Islands, either by passing between the Great and South Natuna, or by the Koti Passage, when— Jf hound to the Gulf of Siam, proceed to the north-eastward to about long. 11 Tor 112° E., which can easily be done, as the wind here is invariably from North to N.N.W. as far as the meridian of Cape Sirik, when it gene- rally hauls to the north-eastward ; then with a full sail stand on the star- board tack towards Pulo Obi. Little or no current will be experienced until lat. 6° or 7° N. is gained ; when it will be found setting strong to the S.W., governed considerably by the prevailing winds. In April and May the best passages to the gulf are made by keeping the Malay coast aboard ; but expect squalls, calms, and rain. The current will also begin to set weakly to the N.E. — Lieut. J. Richards, R.N. If bound to Saigon, proceed to the north-eastward to about 112° E., when stand over with a full sail on the starboard tack, to make Cape Tiwane. From lat. 7° N. until the mouths of the Cambodia Rivers bear West, distant about 70 miles, strong currents will be found setting to the S.W., governed considerably by the prevailing winds, for when strong gales blow in the early part of this monsoon, the south-westerly current is stronger, and often runs 3 knots an hour. The tides are regular, and set pretty strong in-shore on the Cochin China coast during both monsoons. In the latter part of March and April an easterly wind is often found to the eastward of the Anamba Islands, that will take a ship to the Brothers, W. by S., about 24 miles from Pulo Condore ; and afterwards she may work up to Cape St. James inside that island, keeping close to the Cambodia coast, which is very low, and can seldom be seen at night. After opening out the mouths of the Cambodia Eivers, strong ebbs will be found setting to windward, greatly assisting ships on tlie in-shore tack ; but they should not stand near these mouths during the flood tide, and on no account shoal the water to less than 12 fathoms in the night. The lead should never be neglected when standing towards this low land, which may be seen about 10 miles oflP on a fine clear day. N.E. and N.N.E. gales often blow in the latitude of Pulo Sapatu, and between it and the Cochin China coast, in December, January, February, and sometimes March. They continue for two or three days with a heavy sea and strong current. A gradual rise in the barometer is a sure indication of one of these gales ; while at their height the mercury fluctuates about ,'o*o of an inch during the twenty-four hours, and commences falling before the gale is over, the sky being generally thick and hazy throughout. After sighting the land, the vessel should gain the meridian of Cape St. James in one of these gales, bear up for Pulo Condore, and anchor either iu GULF OF SIAM TO SINGAPOEE. 65 the Great Bay, or in Pulo Condore Harbour, where good shelter will be found ; otherwise the vessel will be drifted to leeward of that island, and require several days to beat back to regain her former position. In Sotjth-west Monsoon. — In this monsoon the winds prevail between S.E. and "West in Singapore Strait, and vessels will have no difficulty in sailing through to the eastward. If bound to the Gulf of Siam, having cleared Singapore Strait, shape a course to make the Redang Islands ; and from thence keep the western shore of the gulf aboard, passing inside Puly Lozin and Koh Krah. If bound to Saigon, steer to pass to the westward of Pulo Condore, mak- ing allowance for a current setting out of the Gulf of Siam, whilst crossing the entrance of that gulf. When the body of Pulo Condore bears about South, steer North, or N. ^ W., if an easterly current prevail ; which will soon bring the vessel on the edge of the bank that fronts the mouths of the Cambodia Rivers, and extends to the entrance of Saigon Eiver, Steer then northward along the edge of the bank, keeping in 8 to 12 fathoms ; if the water shoalens under 7 or 8 fathoms, haul to the eastward, and it will imme- diately deepen, the soundings being regular on the edge of the bank. Directions for making the land about Cape St. James, and for proceeding up the Donnai Eiver to Saigon, are given hereafter. 10.— GULF OF SIAM TO SINGAPOEE. In North-east Monsoon. — From Bangkok the passage down the gulf will frequently be shortened in the N.E. monsoon, by sighting the Kusrovie Eock, and passing between the Tanqualah group and Koh Tron. Keep well to the westward of Pulo Panjang, and if bound to Singapore, the passage will be made quicker by hauling well out into the China Sea ; passing about 20 miles outside Pulo Brala, outside Pulo Aor, and then steering for Barbukit Hill, so as to allow for the southerly current setting across the strait. Approaching Pulo Timoan at night or in thick weather, a good lookout should be kept, and allowance made for the current setting to the south- westward, as vessels have several times found themselves close to the North end of that island when their reckoning has placed them well to the east- ward of it. In South-west Monsoon. — From Bangkok to Singapore keep the western shore of the gulf aboard, passing inside the Eedang Islands, Pulo Kapas, and Pulo Brala. Below Pulo Kapas, everything depends on keeping in shore out of the current, and taking advantage of the land and sea breezes. {Lieut. J. Richards, E.N., 1858.) I. A. K 66 PASSAGES. 11.— SAIGON TO SINGAPORE. In N0ETH-EA.8T Monsoon. — From Cape St. James shape a course to pass to the eastward of Pulo Condore, and from thence direct to make Pulo Aor. From Pulo Aor to Singapore proceed according to directions previously given. In South-west Monsoon. — Many good passages have been made by keeping the Cambodia coast aboard as far as the Brothers or Pulo Obi, and then crossing the Gulf of Siam with a strong north-westerly wind until the Malay coast is reached, and afterwards working with the tides, keeping close inshore, by passing inside of Timoan group, Siribuat, and Pulo Sibu,* and thence to the Strait of Singapore, taking advantage of the regular tides and the land and sea breezes which prevail during settled weather in this monsoon. This route is generally adopted by ships from Siam, and sometimes from Saigon ; but the passage to the eastward of the Great Natuna is considered the best, particularly for large vessels. Vessels leaving Cape St. James should take every advantage of the North and N.E. winds, which frequently blow at night, and in some parts of the day, within a short distance of the coast, by running to the south-westward, until the regular monsoon breaks them ofiP to the S.E. These- local winds often carry ships 40 or 50 miles to the south-westward of Pulo Condore without any interruption. While standing over to the S.E. the full strength of the north-easterly current will be met with about the Charlotte Bank ; it gradually decreases and becomes slightly favourable when the Great Natuna is brought to bear S.W. Hereabouts S.E. and easterly winds will generally be met with, and smart sailing ships frequently pass through the channel between Subi and Low Island, and fetch direct into Singapore Strait. Strong westerly winds with rain frequently happen during the early part of this monsoon, and from this cause or by fetching 2° or 3° to the eastward of the Great Natuna with scant southerly winds alter leaving the Cambodia coast, dull sailing vessels have often made the northern part of Borneo about the meridian of Cape Sirik. When this is the case, make for the Api passage, keeping the N.W. coast of Borneo aboard from Tahjong Datu until the Boerong Islands are reached. f This will be accomplished without * The inside chanDel, extending from Pulo Sibu to Siribuat, and formed by a chain of islands and rocks parallel to the main, is a good and safe one, having but few hidden dangers, and good anchorage all the way through. t Many vessels, through leaving the coast of Borneo too soon, have fetched no higher than Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan. EASTERN EOUTE TO SINGAPORE. 67 difficulty, for strong land and sea breezes prevail, and the current is weaker near the coast. The current in the offing runs strong to the northward and through the Api passage. Ships coming through this passage should never shoal their water to less than 12 or 14 fathoms between Tanjong Datu and Tanjong Api, and never pass them nearer than 2 or 3 miles, but should be ready to anchor in it off any other part of the coast, as the tides are greatly influenced by the currents, which often change without warning. Leaving the Boerong Islands, pass either northward or southward of the Tambelan group. Should the wind be scant from the S.W. after leaving these islands, steer as high as possible, and endeavour to make Pulo Pan- tang, off the East side of Bintang Island. ( Captain Loftus.) EASTERN PASSAGES. 12.— EASTERN ROUTE TO SINGAPORE. Captain Mc Konzie gives the following remarks on this passage :— The passage to Singapore, &c., through Balli and Lombok, and the Eastern Straits, late in the S.E. monsoon is often tediuus, as the S.E. currents begin to prevail in October, and light winds, which frequently haul to West and N.W. after passing Pulo Mancap After leaving the Straits of Lombok or Balli, easterly winds will carry you past Pulo Mancap. The best track thus far will be between Pondy and Gallon (safe in the night time), and then to the"southward of Lubeck, going well to the westward of the Mancap Shoal, and just giving the Discovery Bank, and other dangers on the West side of the passage, a fair berth. Steer for the Eastern Montaran Island, passing between it and the next westerly one, the passage is quite clear ; steer then to the W.N.W. along the coast of Billiton. It is best not to go inside the Montaran Shoals, as the wind there at that time of year is seldom more westerly than S. W., consequently a vessel will lie up high enough, from the East Montaran, to pass South of Pulo Dogan, Taya, and Sinkep (if possible to weather the last), if not the Straits of Dasse are quite safe, and quickly passed through with the tide. After passing through either of these straits, run for Singapore by Durion Straits. As to beating down the Carimata against the S.E. monsoon, I believe the best plan is to go through Rhio Strait, then stretch over to the Borneo coast, and work down it close in, anchoring for the tides. From Rendezvous Island make for the Java shore, and if bound easterly work along it. This passage is easily made to Sourabaya in tilteen to twenty days. But it is beating up 68 PASSAGES. from Balli, Lombok, or the East end of Java, in the West monsoon, that requires some remarks ; and for vessels usually deeply loaded with rice, it is a difficult thing to beat up against a strong monsoon and lee current. Two routes have been generally adopted, one to the southward of Java, and the other by beating up the Carimata. By both these routes I have known some vessels get to Singapore in forty days, and some have been fifty, sixty, and eighty days. I should say sixty was an average passage from Balli or Lom- bok ; and the vessel much strained, sails worn, and cargo probably more or less damaged. I should, therefore, confidently recommend an eastern route, which I have no doubt has been by this time followed by the commanders of Balli vessels, at my suggestion. This is, to go through the Molucca, or even Gillolo passage, and then with the North and N.E. winds through the straits of Balabac into the China Sea, and thence to Singapore. A fair wind would be secured all the way, and the passage made in twenty-five or thirty days, with ease and comfort to the vessel. This may seem a very circuitous track, yet I am certain that it is the quickest way to Singapore. And any one wha had once tried either of the other routes would find the difference, when comparing with the eastern route, the harassing work from Pulo to Singa- pore, and the strong rush of current from the China Sea that begins so early as October before the N.E. monsoon has set in. 13.— EASTERN EOUTES TO CHINA, ETC. The passages hitherto described are those which are entered by the Straits of Malacca or Sunda, the two principal highways into the China Sea. But during the adverse N.E. monsoon it may be thought preferable to take one of the channels eadward of Borneo, and thus avoid the wear and tear of beating up the China Sea in the teeth of the monsoon. In this case, the former universal practice was to follow one of the eastern straits, passing to the East of Borneo, and taking the Strait of Macassar, which leads into the Celebes Sea, from thence, according to circumstances, from this sea proceed- ing North, and passing East or West of the Philippines. A vessel can also, in this season, take Pitts passage to the East of the Celebes, crossing the Moluccas, and entering the Pacific Ocean by Pitts Strait, Dampier Passage, or that of Gilolo, then keep to the eastward of the Philippines, entering the China Sea by the Strait of Formosa. Thus, in a general way, it may be taken as a rule, that when the mon- soon is favourable in the China Sea, ships must pass to the West of Borneo, but with a contrary monsoon must pass to the East of that island. October and November are considered the two most favourable months in which to pass the Strait of Macassar quickly. This is the first of the eastern routes. In the other months it is more advantageous to take Pitts Passage^ especially from the middle of December to February. EASTERN ROUTES TO CHINA. 69 On arriving at the eastern straits in the latter part of January or in February, the Strait of Lombok is generally taken, and generally in passing it, cross the channel East of Banditti Island. You can also round this island to the West, but the channel is very narrow. The channel between Lombok and Banditti Island is generally preferred, and then the East coast of this strait is soon reached. From there ships pass to the strait of Ma- cassar, by passing to the East of Hastings Island and Little Pulo Laut, then the coast of Celebes must be passed in order to enter the strait of Macassar. If instead of taking Lombok Strait that of Balli is chosen, with the intention of passing in the Macassar Strait, ships return to the North by passing by the channel between Pondy and Gallon Islands ; then round to the West at a good distance from the islands and banks of Kalkoon, and pass the little island of Pulo Laut on whichever side seems best. On coming from Alias Strait a vessel would steer for Hastings Island, and pass East of it, the same as if coming from Lombok Strait. On arriving from Sapy Strait during the months of September and October, a ship would, according to the prevailing winds, pass to the East or West of the Postilions, and proceed to the North between Tanakeke and the Tongu Islands ; then pass at a good distance the isles and banks of Spermonde, which are N.W. of Macassar Bay, and enter the strait and keep on the Celebes coast to pass through. A vessel going out of the strait in March or April off Cape Donda must cross the sea of Celebes, and steer for the ex- treme East of Bassilan. A vessel making for the channel between Basilan and the West point of Mindanao, must take care to keep well to the East, if the winds will permit, so that she may not be drifted among the Sooloo Islands by the westerly currents. If she gets to leeward of them, she will find good channels be- tween the isles situated to the West of Sooloo ; and then crossing the sea of Mindoro, keep near the coast of the Philippines (Mindanao, Negros, Panay, Mindoro, and Luzon). At the opening of the channel between Mindanao and Negros, and also between Panay and Mindoro, strong winds from the N.E. and westerly currents are generally encountered. A ship must guard against these currents in passing from one island to another, so as not to be set to leeward. If a ship leaves Basilan Strait with steady winds from S.W. and South, she may steer directly for Point Naso, or keep rather to the East of its meridian ; but if the winds are variable or uncertain, she should keep close to Mindanao till Point Galera is reached, and then cross to Naso Point, tak- ing care to keep near Negro Point in crossing from one point to another. From Naso Point steer North along the coast West of the island of Panay, taking every precaution against the dangers which lie to the West of this coast. Then passing the islands lying near the S.W. point of Mindoro, she will enter the channel either East or West of them and the Apo Bank. 70 PASSAGES. With easterly winds in entering the eastern channel, keep 2 or 3 leagues from the coast of Mindoro ; but with a westerly wind, take care not to go more than 9 or 10 milts from the coast until you are North of the Apo Banks, thus clearing the Strait of Mindoro ; and after having doubled the promontory ot Calavite, and passed Luban and Goat Island, you must fol- low the coast of Luzon as far as Cape Bolinao. Having reached this cape, you may be pretty sure of passing East of the Pratas and reaching Macao. However, it is more prudent to steer North as far as Cape Bojeador before crossing for the coast of China. Also, at this season, a vessel may enter the Pacific Ocean by passing South of Mindanao, when the sea of Celebes has been reached. For which, if the wind permit, steer direct for the Serangani Islands, passing between them and Mindanao, or else South of the former. From thence pass between the Meangis and Tulour Isles, in order to double the North cape of Morty Island with the wind at N.E. If any difficulty arise in taking this route, the channel between the Tulour and Sangir Islands may be adopted. But after having proceeded from the Strait of Macassar, and passed be- tween Siao and Tagolanda, or one of the neighbouring Sangir Channels, steer to the East, so as to double the North cape of Morty. For the same reason, ships that have passed South of Siao must run N.E. if the wind will permit. When she has entered the Pacific Ocean from the Philippine Islands, passing to the West of the Pelew Islands, afterwards sail towards the North, so as to enter the China Sea by the Formosa Channel. Pitt Channel, which leads, as has been already stated, into the Pacific Ocean by either Pitt, Gilolo, or Dampier Channels, is preferable to the Macassar Strait during the months of December, January, and February. On arriving, at this season, at the Strait of Sunda, on the way from Bengal, or at the eastern straits on the way from the Cape of Good Hope, I would adopt this channel when bound to China. This is the Second Eastern Route. If, as often happens, a ship, in coming from the Bay of Bengal, passes through the Strait of Sunda instead of along the South coast of Java, in going out of this strait she should pass North of the Thousand Isles, and then steer to the East, leaving the Watcher Isle to the North, on her way to the Strait of Salayer. In case of touching at Batavia, after having passed Edam Island on leaving this port, she would steer so as to leave Burakin Island to the North, and after having passed it, would steer for Salayer Strait. With a N.W. wind the best course through this strait is to pass South of Mansfield Shoal. At night, or when the wind is not steady, it is better to keep to the North of it, along the coast of Celebes. From the Strait of Salayer make for Bouton Strait ; or, if the wind is West, it would be better to pass South of this island, keeping the S.W. point well on board, with the view of avoiding the rocks off it to the southward of Tonkan Bessy. You then pass along the eastern coast of Bouton Island, and having reached the N.E. end EASTEEN EOUTES TO CHINA. 71 of it, if the wind is fresh from N.W., steer North from the island of Waigiou, and from thence for the Xulla Bessy Island. This is an indispensable pre- caution for slow sailing vessels in December and the early part of January, because about this period the wind becomes variable, and veers to N.N.W., causing strong southern currents. The winds and currents in Eitt Channel are very variable, and it may be crossed almost anywhere. It is prudent, however, when northerly winds prevail, to keep the weather shore. In the case of a vessel falling to leeward of the N."W. point of Bouro Island, every exertion should be made to pass it quickly. Instead of work- ing to windward to do this, it is better to run southward of the island, and pass into Eitt Strait to the eastward of it. During the N.W. monsoon vessels which leave Amboyna make to the northward along the East coast of Bouro, where the wind is variable, and squalls come from off the land. Strong currents are rare, and are sometimes favourable for the run north- wards ; while beyond Manipa and the channel which separates it from Ceram, southerly currents prevail in this season. Having reached Eitt Eassage by the foregoing routes, a vessel will be guided by the directions hereafter given. A vessel wishing to pas8 through. Eitt Strait should take either the strait of Bally, Lombok, Allass, or Sapy, and make for that of Salayer on leaving them ; crossing the eastern part of the Java Sea, afterwards steer for Eitt Channel. In coming from the Cape of Good Hope the Ombay Strait is pre- ferable, it being the most direct and more open than those farther West, and the winds being generally less variable there. In making for Ombay Strait, pass either North or South of Sandalwood Island ; but it is better to pass South of it, and then between Ombay and Timor, and after having steered to the eastern extremity of the first of these islands, then steer North, keeping to windward, so as to pass West of Bouro Island ; but if this is impracticable, pass to eastward of this island, between it and Manipa, and then take the Eitt Channel. After having entered Eitt Channel steer East, passing between Xulla Bessy and Bouro ; but in case you should pass to the West of this island, if no current be found, then steer direct through Eitt Strait ; if the current sets northward, keep off the islands which border the northern side of this strait. When near the meridian of the East point of Oby Major, and wishing to take Dampier Strait, keep on to eastward. This strait seems favourable for good sailing vessels, especially in January and February, when N.E. winds are getting more easterly. In March, when the N.E. winds become weaker, the Strait of Gilolo is preferable for entering the Facific Ocean. This last strait is wider, and a ship can work both night and day in it, and the currents are seldom very strong. On leaving Eitt Strait, and also that of Dampier, you must take great care not to be drifted on the North coast of New Guinea, and should therefore contrive to round Eoint Eigot 72 PASSAGES. close, looking out sharply for Buccleugh Bank, whicli lies to the East of the East coast of Waigiou. Pitt Strait should only be taken when it cannot be avoided. In this case, a ship should keep in the middle of the channel to avoid being set to either side by the tides, and should therefore make short boards, not approaching either shore, and should try to make Jackson Isle, and pass 5 miles to north- ward of it. When a ship has passed the reef, which lies to the northern extremity of Batanta Island, she must steer northward for Point Pigot. To enter Dampier Strait on passing the meridian of the East point of Oby Major, steer East, to pass between the Canary Isles and Pulo Popo. Some- times vessels pass between the Bou Islands and Pulo Popo. This last chan- nel is advantageous with the winds from the N.W., and then run for Fisher Island and Mabo Cape, and from thence pass between Pigeon Island and Foul Island, always keeping a good lookout for the dangers which exist on the North shore of Dampier Strait. In coming out keep nearer Pigeon Isle than Foul Island, and steer so as to sight Pigot Point, so as not to be horsed on to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly swell which prevails in the oflB.ng. Vessels should always carefully avoid the Buccleugh Bank. The tides are very strong in Dampier Strait, and the currents very irregular, their rate varying from 1 to 5 miles an hour. In the height of the N.W. monsoon, in the narrow part of the strait between Pigeon Isle and Foul Isle, the ebb at the time of the spring tides runs 4 or 5 knots to the E.N.E. for six or eight hours, and between 1 and 3 miles in neaps. The flood sets S.W. for three or four hours, but is weak. During the height of the S.E. monsoon in this part, the flood runs to the West for eight or ten hoiu-s at a time, and turns successively to W.S.W., S.W., and S.W. by S. ; it then attains its greatest velocity, which at springs sometimes exceeds 5 miles an hour, and is reduced to 4 miles an hour in neaps. The ebb at this season runs to E.N.E. or N.E. ; it is not strong or of long duration. On leaving Dampier Strait, when a ship is in the Pacific Ocean, she should run down her easting quickly, keeping in a low latitude, or between the parallels of 1° 30' and 3° N., which she can easily do. Sometimes even in December and January easterly currents are frequently found in that track, being that eastward counter current on the equator which has been spoken of in the chapter on this subject. She will thus be enabled con- veniently to pass either East or West of the Pelew Isles, but this depends up'in the sailing powers of the ship, and the strength of the N.E. monsoon. A vessel must not go too far to eastward, for fear of falling in with the islands of Goulou and Guap, near which, in November and December, heavy squalls from the westward are encountered. From the Pelew Islands, steer for the Bashee Islands, allowing for the westerly currents, which run at a rate of 12 or 15 miles a day. From December to the middle of February it is most prudent to pass to the East of the Pelew Islands. EASTERN ROUTES. 73 Should a vessel leave Dampier Strait towards the end of the N.E. mon- soon, she should not run far East into the Pacitic Ocean. At the end of February and in March ships can pass to the West of the Pelew Islands, as the winds at this time often vary and shift to E.N.E. When the North part of Luzon is reached the China Sea can be entered by either of the great routes, or the channel of Balingtang, or any of the good channels formed by the Bashee Islands and the Babuyanes. However, with the winds from the N.E., and at the commencement of the monsoon, it is necessary to pass to the North of the Bashee Islands, and either North or South of the Cambrian and Gadd Recks. The South point of Formosa is thus approached, and it is best with daylight and the weather fine to pass between this point and the Vele Rete Rock. During the night, or in bad weather, if prevented from taking this route, a vessel should pass to the North of the Bashee Islands, keeping close to them. Whichever may be the channel by which she enters the China sea, a course should be adopted to sight, if possible, Ty-Sing- Cham, or Pedro Blanco, and enter the Canton River by the Lema Channel. The Strait of Gilolo, the third which connects Pitt Passage with the Pacific Ocean, is divided into two parts by the island of Geby, and the part between this island and that of Gilolo takes the name of Gilolo Strait. That part between Geby and Waigiou has been called the Bougainville Strait, as that ofiicer passed through it in 1772. All the channels leading from Pitt Channel to the Strait of Gilolo are free from danger ; but during the N.W. monsoon that between Pulo Gass and Kakik Island is preferable, as being the widest ; for the other broad channel between Pulo Pisang and the Bou Islands is too much to leeward at this season. To enter the Gilolo Strait, passing, as we have already said, between Pulo Gass and Kakik, sail closely roimd the southern point of the first of these islands, so as not to get to the eastward of the channel by the current which often prevails there. After having passed Pulo Gass to eastward or westward, according to the channel taken, continue on between Cape Tabo and Geby Island ; and if at night, give a good berth to the Fairway Bank and Widda Island ; however, it is prudent, if the wind is light, to keep as close as possible to the islands on the West coast of the strait, on account of the N.E. and easterly currents. Should the winds be contrary, no time should be lost in trying to pass North of Geby ; afterwards, passing South between this island and Gagy, and entering the Pacific by one of the channels near Syang. However, when it can be done, the West channel between the coast of Gilolo and the Shampi Isles, or one of those comprised between these islands and Syang is prefer- able, as with a northerly wind a ship would be able to pass to windward of the Aiou and Asia Islands. Should there be any difficulty in passing to the West of Asia Isles, the channel, which is formed by them and Aiou, can be I. A. I. 74 . PASSAGES. adopted, or even between this latter and the North coast of Waigiou. Having gained the Pacific Ocean, a vessel should endeavour, as soon as possible, to make her easting in the zone comprised between the parallels of 1° 30' and 3° N., as southerly and S.E. currents are found there, and she must not pass North of the parallel 3° N., and she will thus attain the latter part of the route which we have previously indicated from Dampier Strait to the Ciiina Sea. 14.— CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC. The foregoiug remarks refer chiefly to those routes through the Archi- pelago which lead to the different por';s for vessels bound from Europe or India. The reverse, or homeward voyage, is generally subject to the same influences, and requires the same consideration, in reference to the seasons, that is called for in the outward voyage. As a first principle it may be stated that a vessel bound to an Atlantic port should endeavour to gain the S.E. trade wind as soon as possible, by ■which she may gain the coast of Africa, Mauritius, or Madagascar, and thence proceed roiind the Cape of Good Hope. This portion of the subject and that relating to the passage from the Strait of Sunda to Aden is detailed in our Indian Ocean Directory, pages 162 — 166 and 201 — 202. A vessel bound to the Bay of Bengal should take the readiest course for the straits of Singapore and Malacca, and thence as directed in the Indian Ocean Directory, pages 179, 184, &c. These remarks refer to both monsoons. The best way of reaching the Strait of Malacca, or the Southern Indian Ocean, necessarily requires a difi'erent route in the opposite seasons. For the China Sea and the Strait of Sunda this reverse voyage has been considered in former pages ; but a few remarks from Capt. Kerhallet may be here appended. When a ship leaves China during the N.E. monsoon for Europe or India, she should make for the Straits of Banka and Gaspar, or for that of Singa- pore. In March and April the outer route is the quickest by the Macclesfield Bank. She ought, during these two months, to keep out to sea as far as the latitude of Pulo Sapata, or take the route proposed by Capt. Stephens down the West coast of Luzon, Palawan, and Borneo, as described in a foot-note on p. 62. Some useful remarks by Capt. Polaek will also be found on p. 86. On the contrary, during the other months than March and April, a vessel should take the inner channel, which is comprised between Hainan and the Paracel Islands, when she would without difficulty reach the Straits of Sin- gapore, Banka, and Gaspar. From these two latter a course should be steered for the strait of Sunda. On leaving this strait the parallel of 10° N. should be crossed in 100° E. longitude, and then shape a direct course for the South point of Madagascar, as is described in the Directions for the Indian Ocean. This route crosses the area of the course of hurricanes ; con- sequently they are often encountered by vessels from the eastern seas. CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC. 75 The In'xer Route is the most direct for reaching the straits leading from the China Sea ; it has also this advantage, that vessels have the wind aft as soon as the Great Ladrone has been passed. A ship taking this route should steer from the Great Ladrone, so as to pass near the islands of Taya and Paracels at a convenient distance to the West. It is estimated that the current sets westward at the rate of 15 or 20 miles a day, for the currents are strong near the coast of China, although it may not be the case out at sea. If it should be observed that the ship is drifted much towards the West, she must shape her course to allow for it, until she has reached the parallel of 17° W., and entered the channel between the Paracels and Cochin China. Having reached the parallel indicated, and the meridian of 106°, a course should be steered so as to sight Cape Yarela, or the Pagoda. With clear weather and an E.N.E. or N.E. wind, a ship may sight Pulo Canton (also called Callao Kay) or the coast situated South of this island, and then keep a moderate distance from the shore ; if the weather be cloudy, and the wind has a tendency to become easterly, it would be more prudent not to approach the coast till she is in the latitude of Cape Varela, nor enter the Bay of Phouyin to the North of this cape. In case the conical mountain be visible on the North shore of this bay, it will indicate the position of the cape, for as night approaches, the pagoda on the height, which commands it, is obscured by clouds. Having passed to the South of the parallel of 15° N., it will be found that the current sets southward near the land; for between 14° 30' and 11° 30' it often sets at the rate of 40, 50, and even 60 miles a day ; but it is very variable. It is indis- pensable to make for Cape Varela when land has not been seen to the North of this point, from whence the coast may be kept at a distance of 12 or 15 miles. When a ship is East of Cape Varela, distant about 4 or 5 miles, she can steer along the shore by day ; but at night must be careful to avoid Pyramid Isle, and those near to it. If the night be fine, she can sight these islands, as they may be made out at a few miles distant. Water Islands should then be steered for, which are 21 miles to the southward, and can also be seen. When these islands are reached, if the land is more than 12 miles off, it will be necessary to approach it, to sight the mountain of False Cape Varela, which can be distinguished among the high lands of the coast by its elevation and gentle slope towards the sea. In order to keep inshore and pass to the West of the Dutchman Bank, a vessel should cross Padaran Bay as soon as she is abreast of the high lands of Cape Varela. This is necessary, because the currents in this part take a S.S.E. direction, and it is very difficult for ships out at sea to approach this coast. When a vessel is in a good position for crossing the bay, the sound- ings will be found to be 40 and 50 fathoms. Then, during the night, Cape Padaran should be made on the starboard bow. On recognizing this cape, great care should be taken, as it is difficult to distinguish it from the high 7fi PASSAGES. lands in the bay. On having sighted Cape Padaran, it may be passed at about 3 or 6 miles ; and Pulo Ceicir may be doubled at the same distance on keeping this island to the West. In case ships are only 1 or 2 miles from the cape, a course should be steered to pass at a convenient distance from Pulo Ceicir. When this island is doubled in the day, at 4, 6, or 6 miles to sea- ward, it should be brought to bear N.N.E. ^ N. before being lost sight of from the deck, and then steering 18 or 21 miles between W.S.W. and S.W. by W., as most convenient, will pass West of Dutchman Bank, when a South course may be steered for Pulo Aor. This route is not dangerous when the night is clear enough to admit of distinguishing the cavern of Padaran. In this case, when a ship is 3, 4, or 5 miles from the cape, she must take the most convenient route till she sights the Cavern ; and when it bears N. by E.,,she will be off Pulo Ceicir. If in this case soundings are found at 11 or 20 fathoms, she should stand off from it a little, because the island is too low to be seen at night, and in thia part of the channel the soundings are too irregular to serve as a guide. The Cavern bearing N. 16° E., Pulo Ceii ir is in the same direction ; and by running 18 or 20 miles nearer between W.S.W. and S.W. by W., Dutch- man Bank may be passed on the West, and then steer for Pulo Aor. If the night should be dark when near Padaran, and the Cavern not to be distinguished, the vessel must be kept between South and West till she is about 12 or 13 leagues from the cape, and in this case it is best not to ap- proach the coast or Pulo Ceicir with less than 6 fathoms of water, and Dutchman Bank should not be approached in less than 18 or 20 fathoms. Between the western edge of this bank and the eastern edge of Britto Shoal, which is nearest to it, there is a distance of 14 or 15 leagues, between which there is a large channel, which may be taken in the night. A ship should keep in soundings of 15 or 16 fathoms, until she is 5 or 6 leagues more to the South of Pulo Ceicir ; and when she is 13 leagues to the S.W. of Cape Padaran it will be best to run again between the South and West to the dis- tance of 2 or 3 leagues, so as to give a wide berth to the Holland Bank. A vessel should not take more than 20 fathoms depth, till she has passed thia bank, nor less than 16 fathoms when she is near Britto Bank, if she is a little to the West. In taking the route between these two banks the soundings will be found to vary between 10 and 11 fathoms; and when the western part of the Holland Bank is passed a vessel should keep in 10 or 11 fathoms, and steer towards Pulo Aor. The route between Pulo Ceicer and Holland Bank cannot be taken in the night, except by captains who are well acquainted with these parts, consequently, often while waiting for days, a vessel is obliged to lay off Cape Varela. Besides the loss of time which is thus occasioned, a ship has to contend with a heavy sea, when the breeze is strong ; and for this reason mariners generally preter passing through the passage outside CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC. 77 Pulo Ceicir and Pulo Sapata. When a vessel finds herself near Ealse Cape Varela at nightfall, with a wind too strong to haul up to, or bad weather, and not wishing on account of the darkness to pass between Holland Bank and Pulo Cecir de Mer, she should steer a course to the East of Pulo Cecir de Mer, and then outside Pulo Sapata the next morning. She may run far enough out to sea if the weather is gloomy, after passing a good distance from these isles. When the wind is strong the currents run to the S. W. and W.S.W. with great rapidity, and sometimes towards Pulo Sapata. A ship would then be obliged to pass the night in the narrow channel between this island and the Little Catwik. In the day, in fine weather, a ship may keep as near as she likes to Pulo Cecir de Mer, and pass between Pulo Sapata and the Large Catwik ; she can also pass between the two Catwicks, only it must be remembered that the Paix Rock is in the channel formed by these two islands ; from there she may steer direct for Pulo Aor. On arriving at Pulo Timoan during a fog, you must keep in soundings of 28 or 30 fathoms, afterwards passing East of this island for Pulo Aor. As these islands are often concealed in the fog, great care must be taken to avoid them, and attend to the reckoning, especially during the night. Near the Anambas, and to the North of them, a vessel generally has 36 to 44 fathoms. When she is between 5° 30' and 6° N., these depths decrease in the western part of the channel, and 26 to 28 fathoms on the meridian of Pulo Timoan. Having passed East of Pulo Aor at a distance of 2, 3, or 4 leagues, bound to the Strait of Banca, steer to the eastward of South, according to the wind and prevailing currents, and pass outside the Geldria Bank, which she may avoid by keep- ing in a depth of not less than 10 or 11 fathoms when between the parallels of 0° 56' and 0° 40' N. When this bank has been passed, a course should be steered so as to cross the equator, and pass 4 or 5 leagues from the East point of Lingin, if the current will admit. In all cases a vessel should guard against westerly currents, which are sometimes encountered in these parts. Outer Eoute. — When the outer channel is adopted in coming from China towards Pulo Aor, a vessel ought to pass at a short distance West of the La- drones and neighbouring islands. In general, strong winds and a heavy sea with strong currents are found on leaving Great Ladrone, and a vessel should steer to eastward of South for the Macclesfield Bank ; and when the winds are moderate she should endeavour to reach the East part of it, When 20 leagues East of the meridian of the Great Ladrone, and a vessel has difiiculty in obtaining soundings, she may consider herself East of the Macclesfield Bank. When a vessel has adopted the outer route in November and De- cember, with strong winds and no observations for several days, she should endeavour to strike soundings on the Macclesfield Bank ; but if she is certain of her position, these may be neglected, because from East to West on the 78 PASSAGES. bank being very wide, and the soundings being very irregular, the depth can only be an uncertain guide as to her real position. On leaving the Macclesfield Bank, she should steer for Pulo Sapata, and should have sound- ings on that bank, and it being on the same parallel it would be well for her to shape her course for that of Pulo Sapata. If she should not sight this island, she should steer West, so as to obtain soundings in 32 or 37 fathoms. With thick weather, when ships are uncertain of their position, it would be dangerous to run straight for Pulo Sapata and round the island in the night, as it is difiieult to distinguish. As a general rule, they should keep well to the East of Pulo Sapata until on the parallel of 10° N., and by standing West by South to obtain soundings. Some captains, on leaving the Mac- clesfield Bank, run as far as the parallel of Pulo Sapata, keeping well off to the eastward of the island ; this can be done in March, April, or May. How- ever, in adopting this route care must be taken to allow for the S.E. currents which might set a ship on the banks to the E.N.E. and East of Pulo Sapata. When a vessel has reached the parallel of 10° N., she would steer between West and South until soundings are found in 30 fathoms ; then steer a course for Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan. If she is bound for the Strait of Singapore, to avoid the Charlotte Bank, the soundings should not be more than 26 or 28 fathoms when in latitude 7° 6' N. In March and April vessels returning to Europe should keep well to the eastward, so as to pass between the Natunas and Anambas Islands, and take the Strait of G-aspar. Further remarks on these passages have been given on pp. 62 and 85, as has been alluded to. 15.— PASSAGES BETWEEN AUSTEALIA AND CHINA. A more full description of the passages between Australia and China will be found in our Directory for the South Pacific Ocean. As described by Captain Allen, harbour-master at Newcastle, N.S.W., there were four prin- cipal routes in use by vessels between the years 1869 — 1873: — 1. The Eastern Poute, passing eastward of New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, and Santa Cruz Groups, and crossing the equator in 166° E. 2. The Middle Route, westward of New Caledonia, and between the Santa Cruz and Solo- mon Islands, crossing the equator in 159° E. 3. The Western Route, N.E. from Newcastle to the 157° meridian, thence North on that meridian to the Pocklington Reef in 11° S., crossing the equator in 153° E. 4. The Torres Strait Route, also from Newcastle, N.E. to the 157th meridian, then North on that meridian to the latitude of the Mellish Reef, and N. W. for Bligh's entrance to Torres Strait. When through Torres Strait the route is between the Tenimber and Arrou Islands, and by the passage between Ceram and Bouro into the Molucca Channel, then round the N.E. end of BETWEEN AUSTE ALIA AND CHINA. 79 Celebes Island into the Celebes Sea, through the Basilan Channel into the Sulu Sea, and through Mindoro Strait into the China Sea. The distance from Nevvcastle to Hong Kong by this route is 5,300 miles, and it has been taken by one ship, between the years 1869 and 1873, the England, which made the passage in 41 days, in the month of July. Some further remarks as to the best route through the Archipelago will be found below. Much depends on the sailing qualities of the vessel, but as a general rule, ships leaving Australia in the months of January, February, or March, for China or Japan, should adopt the Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 40 days ; leaving in April, May, or June, they should adopt the Western Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 36 days ; leaving in July, August, or September, they should, if they can reach Torres Strait before the end of August, take that route ; and if not, either the Western or Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage via Torres Strait in 40 days, and by the other routes in 55 days ; and, finally, ships leaving in October, November, and December, should adopt the Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 44 days. Eeom Sydney to Yedo. — Vessels bound from Sydney to Japan during the S.W. monsoon should pursue, as far as lat. 8° N.. and long. 160° E., the same course as those bound for Hong Kong ; from that position a course should be shaped to pass to the northward of the Mariana Islands and to the south-westward of the Volcano Islands, after passing which, steer to make Sima lights, remembering that the ship must pass the strength of the Kuro Siwo, and wiU, when in its stream, be set to the north-eastward from 2 to 3 knots an hour. North Coast of Australia to China. — The following remarks are by Mr. Greorge Windsor Earl : — A ship proceeding from the North coast of Australia to China, from April to September, when the S.E. monsoon prevails to the southward, and the S.W. monsoon to the northward of the equator, should pass to the southward of Timor and Sandalwood Island, and through the straits of Alias or Lom- bok into the Java Sea ; and from thence through the Carimata Passage, and up the China Sea to Canton, by which course she will have a stronger mon- soon and a clearer sea than by passing to the northward of Timor, and through the Flores Sea ; or than by running at once to the northward, through the Molucca Passages. By this latter route, instead of a fair and steady wind all the voyage, difficulty would be experienced in passing be- tween Borneo and Palawan into the China Sea, from the variable winds, and from the numerous shoals which lie to the westward of the Balabak Passage. The passage by the North of Palawan to China is also often attended with difficulty during the S.W. monsoon ; and an additional inconvenience of these routes is, that the navigation of the Molucca Sea will be performed during the bad monsoon. 80 PASSAGES. Ships returning from China to the North coast of Australia during this season should pursue the track frequently adopted by ships bound to Europe, namely, by standing to the eastward, round the North end of the Philippines into the Pacific, and so to the southward towards New Guinea. When past the parallel of 5° N., S.E. and S.S.E. winds, with a strong current to the westward, will probably be felt, by which she may easily pass through Dam- pier Strait, or the Gilolo Passage, into the Molucca Sea. She may then pass between Coram and Bouro, and across the Banda Sea to Wetta, when no difficulty will be found in getting to the eastward along the North side of the Serwatty Islands, as the current there sets to the eastward during the S.E. monsoon. When off Baba, she may stand to the southward for the coast of Australia, and if she should fall to leeward of her port, she may easily gain her easting by taking advantage of the land and sea breezes. Again, if a vessel is bound from the North coast of Australia to China from October to March, when the western monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator, and the N.E. monsoon in the China Sea, she should, on leav- ing the coast, keep close to the wind, and as the monsoon often blows 8.W. and even S.S.W. between Australia and Timor, she may be enabled to pass between Timor and the Serwatty Islands and through Pitt Passage into the Pacific, and thus pursue the eastern route to China adopted by ships at this season. If unable to get far enough to windward to pass between Ceram and Bouro, she may run at once to the northward, between Ceram and Ceram Laut, and from thence into the Pacific by Pitt or Damj)ier Straits. The only difficulty that an indifferent ship would be likely to encounter in this route would be on the passage between Ceram Laut and the N.W. end of New Guinea, where the winds would probably be from the N.W. ; but even then she would have the advantage of fine weather. The route from the North coast of Australia, through the Flores and Java Seas, and up the China Sea to Canton, would be impracticable at this season, even for a fast sailing vessel, as she would have a dead beat and a lee current the whole way. A ship returning from China during this season may steer a direct course through the Mindoro Sea, and thence by the Molucca Passage, and past the N.E. end of Timor to the North coast of Australia. 16.— BETWEEN THE NOETH COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND SINGAPORE. A vessel bound to Singapore from April to September may pursue the route recommended above for ships bound to China at this season, namely to the southward of Timor, through the Straits of Alias and Cariraata, and thence through Rhio Strait to Singapore. The return voyage at that season, through the Java Sea, against the S.E. monsoon, would be tedious and diffi- FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS. SI cult, even for a smart ship ; it would, tlierefore, be most advisable to run across the China Sea, and round the North end of Borneo, where she would probably have the advantage of S.AV. and S.S.W. winds, to traverse the Sooloo Archipelago. When near the Molucca Passage, though the winds will be mostly from the southward, yet but little difficulty will be experienced in passing through it ; and when through, the route to the North coast of Australia, already recommended for vessels returning from China at this season, should be adopted. From October to March, the passage to Singapore through the Java Sea, against the N.W. monsoon, will be tedious and difficult ; a ship bound there during that season should therefore proceed to the northward by the Molucca or Gilolo Passage, where she would have the advantage of tine weather, and when to the northward of Grilolo the wind would probably come from the northward and eastward, with a westerly current, which would enable her to proceed round the North end of Borneo, and so with the N.E. monsoon, down the China Sea to Singapore. A ship returning at this season should pass through the Carimata Passage, through the Java and Floras Seas, and then to the southward of Wetta, and between Timor and the Serwatty Islands, to the North coast of Australia. It would be advisable to proceed through the Strait of Alias, and to the southward of Timor, as light airs and calms, with squalls from the South and S.S.W., are often encountered to the southward of the islands East of Java, while in the Flores Sea the N.W. monsoon blows steadily. 17.— FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS. In the S.W. Monsoon. The adverse voyage against the S.W. monsoon is best followed by adopt- ing one of the ensuing routes, according to the time when the southern part of China is left. First Eastern Eoute. — Quitting Macao, or Hong Kong, in the end of April or beginning of May for the first Eastern Eoute, that is, the Mindoro Strait, a ship should run to the South as far as the Macclesfield Bank, if the wind allows, so as to reach the N.W. extreme of Mindoro without tacking in case of the wind shifting to S.W. From near the Macclesfield she should stand S.E., holding her wind if it is at all to the S.W., and should it not admit of her weathering the point of Calavite she should work along the coast of Lu^on with the variable winds, with which she will come up to the N.W. extremity of Mindoro. The channel to the East of the Apo Bank should be chosen for crossing the Mindoro Strait, giving the Mindoro coast a berth of some miles, if the wind is variable ; a distance of 9 or 10 miles is necessary if the S.W. wind is I. A. M 82 PASSAGES. steady ; she will then pass the islands of Ambolon and Ilin at a distance of about 15 miles. Should the wind allow, she may cross the Strait of Mindoro, passing West of the Apo Lank, in the Northumberland Channel, formed by this bank and the Calamianes. Then keep along the coast of Panay, working, if necessary, at some distance from this island, according to circumstances, and approach the island of Quiniluban, so as to pass the dry sandbank between this island and the coast of Panay. Having reached Cape Naso, stand for the strait of Basilan, making it well to the southward and westward, when the wind is from these quarters : but steering direct for it if the wind is easterly. The S.W. extreme of Min- danao being gained, it will be better to take the strait of Basilan than those formed by the islands to the S.W., the former route being the shortest ; the Celebes Sea will thus be entered, and the ship will make fur the strait of Macassar. Instead of persevering in working at the entrance of the strait of Basilan against S.E. winds, it may be better to steer West, in order to pass West of the Sooloo Archipelago, between the point of Unsang and the island of Tawee-Tawee. There are two small islands close off the S.W. point of this island, bearing S.W., near Sibutu Island, and forming a good channel lead- ing direct to the Celebes Sea. This channel is safe, and easy of navigation both by night and day, four hours sufl&cing for passing from one sea to the other by it, while under similar circumstances it has sometimes occupied four days in going from one sea to the other by the strait of Basilan. To leave the Celebes Sea, a vessel may either take the Macassar Strait or the Molucca Channel. Some navigators prefer the latter when the S.E. monsoon prevails North of the equator. In fact, it is difficult, without a tedious passage to windward, to reach Allass Strait from the strait of Ma- cassar ; while by taking the Molucca Channel the S.E. monsoon is found in a latitude sufficiently to the eastward to enable you to take whichever eastern channel is preferred. But vessels bound to Batavia, or the strait of Sunda, will find the strait of Macassar the best. On leaving the strait of Basilan, if the easterly wind is well established, a vessel should steer so as to make Cape Donda to the S.S.E. or South ; but most generally, from the winds veering westward near the northern entrance of the strait, and the current setting eastward, it is prudent to keep as much as possible to the westward, in order to sight Point Kanneeungan. A ship off Cape Rivers is sometimes set to the eastward by the current along the coast of Celebes, and after fruitless contest with it, is sometimes obliged to take the Molucca Channel. A ship having entered the strait of Macassar, should keep along the West coast of Celebes, passing East of the Little Paternosters, being very cautious, on account of the dangers North of the islands of Nusa Seras, in passing be- FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS. 83 tween them and the Grreat Pulo Laut. From thence she should steer for the strait of Alias, or one of the straits leading into the Indian Ocean. If bound to Batavia or the strait of Sun da from the strait of Macassar, she should steer South, if the wind will permit, and pass North of the Little Paternosters for the coast of Borneo, keeping along this coast and guarding against the dangers off it, as well inshore as to seaward. She would then enter the Java Sea, and reach Batavia or the strait of Sunda without diffi- culty ; and thence the Indian Ocean, and make for the Cape, or the western coast of India, by the routes before alluded to. A ship taking this route, and meeting with contrary winds from the strait of Basilan, so as to be unable to reach the strait of Macassar, may take the Molucca Passage, and should then steer for the islands near the N.E. end of Celebes ; and passing between the islands of Banka and Bejaren, will clear the N.E. point of that island, and tlien steer to the southward, through the channel formed by Lissa Matula and Oby Major, which is the most fre- quented ; or, if the wind should not permit her reaching it, should take the Grreyhound Channel, between the islands Albion and Hammond (West of Xulla Tally abo). When it is difficult to get to the southward in the Molucca Channel, dull sailing vessels might try to do so by keeping near the West coast of Gilolo ; thence they might enter the strait of Patientia, between GiLdo and Batchian, or the strait of Batchian, formed by the island of this name and Tawally and Maregoland. However, a ship having reached the northern extremity of Gilolo or Morty in the height of the S. W. monsoon, should rather pass through the Grilolo Channel than that of the Moluccas, because it leads more directly to Pitt Channel, by which she can gain the eastern straits. On leaving the Molucca Channel the Timor Strait or the strait of Ombay may be adopted if desirable. A ship should then pass close to Oby Mnjor, in order easily to round the East coast of Bourou, and so pass between this island and that of Manipa. She would then run to the southward into the Banda Sea, whei'e the winds are generally from E.S.E. ; on leaving Manipa she would endeavour to pass to the East of Ombay, and having crossed the channel formed by this island and Wetta, would follow the West coast of Timor, and enter the Indian Ocean between Semao and Savu. This is the shortest route during this season from Pitt Passage to the Indian Ocean. Segokd Easterk' Route. — The second eastern route for the Cape or West coast of India from China, with the S.W. monsoon, is adopted from the middle of May to the end of July. This route is by taking the Pacific Ocean East of the Philippines, and passing through Pitt Passage. In August it is too late to adopt this route, and a ship obliged to leave the S.W. of China thou, should follow the coasts of Cochin China and Cambodia, as before di- 84 PASSAGES. rected, unless from being a bad sailer it may be better to defer her departure until September. With southerly or S.W. winds, a ship to pass East of the Philippinea should steer South in order to enter the Pacific Ocean with tacking. If the wind admits, the channel between the Bashees and Babuyanes should be adopted. Having reached the Pacific Ocean, S.W. winds at this season will generally be found, with easterly or N.E. currents ; she should then steer 8.E. in order to avoid Cape Engano and Lugon, tacking if necessary so aa to pass neither too far out nor too close, and taking care not to round the Pelew Islands farther to the eastward than is necessary. The best route for making southing is then East of the isles of St, Andrew, Current, Mariere, Lord North, and the dangerous Helen Shoal. If the easterly drifts of the equatorial counter current are met they will not be strong as far as the Pelew Islands ; but between lat. 5° and 2° N. they set at the rate of 30 or 60 miles per day. This part must therefore be crossed as quickly as possible if the wind is West, as it frequently is ; and if the wind is light, a ship may be set far to the eastward by this current. But from the lat. of 2° N. to the equator a westerly current will be found, while near Dampier Strait it is again running to the eastward. Having rounded to the eastward the island of St. Andrew, a ship should endeavour to keep between the meridians of 132° and 133° E., and when in 1° N. lat., if Dampier Strait is to be taken, she should make for Point Pigot. The strait of Gilolo being broader than that of Dampier, is often preferred for that reason, and it has few difficulties to overcome in reaching Pitt Passage. When Gilolo Strait is to be adopted, on leaving the parallel of 2° N, a ship should steer for the Asia Isles, and round them on the North, if the wind permits, unless she passes between these islands and Ayou. Having passed the islands of Eye and Syang, she would then go North or South of the island of Greby, and if the weather be not favourable, instead of the strait of Bougainville she might take that of Grilolo, which is North of it ; and in crossing this strait she should keep near the eastern coast, and enter Pitt Channel between Pulo Pisang and the Boo Isles, or else, accord- ing to circumstances, between Kekek and Pulo Gass. A vessel entering Dampier Strait should round Point Pigot at a distance of 6 or 12 miles, and then steer for King William Island, keeping it West of her ; when about 9 miles from it she should steer for Pigeon Island, and pass 2 or 3 miles South of it ; she may then cross the strait, taking care to avoid any dangers in her way. On leaving Dampier Strait she would go close round Cape Mabo, so as if posssible to pass South of Pulo Popa ; or she may pass North of this island CHINA SEA. 85 and enter Pitt Channel bet'veen the Boo Islands and Pulo Popa. In Pitt Channel she should keep mid-channel, borrowing rather on the southern than on the northern side. Having reached West of Pulo Popa, and cleared Pitt Passage, passing between Ceram and Bourou, the Indian Ocean may be entered by the strait of Ombay or one of those westward of it. The strait of Ombay is the most direct route to the Indian Ocean in the S.E. monsoon. If intending to take the strait of Salayer, or those of Alias or Sapie, the N.W. part of Bourou should be gained, and thence the most northerly of the Toukan Bessy group should be rounded at 2 or 3 miles distance ; and from thence enter the strait of Salayer. 18. CUEEENTS AND PASSAGES AGAINST THE MONSOON, IN THE CHINA SEA. In pages 28 to 30, are given some remarks on the currents experienced in the China Sea ; and in pages 55 to 63 are directions for the various routes, according to the season, between Singapore and Hong Kong. The following important notes are the result of the experience and obser- vation of Captain A. Polack, master of the Hamburgh barque Madeira, gained during thirty-five voyages up and down the China Sea, previous to November, 1867. They appeared in the Nautical Magazine for June, 1861, and are here given for the benefit of the mariner. Although there is a fast and still increasing trade from China to Saigon, it is astonishing how very little this voyage up and down the China Sea against the monsoon is yet known and understood in general, for the greatest difference of arriving in China (as to time) exists in this little Saigon voyage of only about 1,100 miles distance. Ships which are acquainted with the voyage here make it in nineteen to twenty-three days, while the greater part not being well acquainted with it, require between thirty and forty-five days. A barque in 1865 took one hundred and ten days, and worse than all, another actually returned this year to Hong Kong, after having been out about sixtj' days, declaring it impossible to reach Saigon in the S. W. monsoon. As I have made now fifteen voyages from Hong Kong to Saigon and back, and traversed the South China seas up and down, and in all seasons of the year, thirty-five times, I hope you will hold me competent enough, and will allow me to give my brother sailors, who do not know the voyage, a little of my experience. Leaving Hong Kong in the S.W. Monsoon, our first object ought to be to make southing, and try to reach the North Danger of the Palawan Shoals as soon as possible. But as the wind is most generally between S.S.E. and S.S.W. at starting, I nearly always stood W.S.W. and S.S.W. between Isle 86 PASSAGES. Hainan and the Paracels even to the East coast of Cochin China, and worked along this coast as far as Cape Varela {not False Varela), always trying to be a good distance, say 40 miles oflE shore at noon, to stand in with the S.S.E. winds generally blowing in the aftf-rnoon, until 7 or 10 p.m. Then stand off with the wind, then veering a little off land, or about South and S.S.W. {solar winds). From Cape Varela I invariably stood to the south-eastward over to the Palawan Shoals, never thinking of going about, for here my greatest endeavour was to cross the Padaran stream of 40 to 70 miles a day to the N.E. as quickly as possible. I then worked along the shoals down to 7° N., and 111° or 110° E. long., and between 7° and 8° N. lat. I worked from two to four days to the westward, until St. James bore N.W. by N., which I then generally reached in one or two days in one tack. In this track my longest voyage was twenty-three and my shortest nineteen days, at same time when other vessels took fifty and eighty-five days. In this route I generally had the current from Hong Kong (Taytang Channel) and Macao, to the South coast of Hainan from ten to twenty-four miles a day to the N.W. ; from there to the East coast of Cochin China the current varies between North, N.W., and West, from 15 to 25 miles a day, but on the West side of the Paracels an East current of 12 to 30 miles will be found. On the East coast of Cochin China it runs from 10 to 20 miles a day to the N.N.W. and N.N.E., but there is often no current at all. From Cape Varela to the shoals I generally had the first day when right in the Padaraa stream from 30 to 50 (one voyage 70') miles to the N.E. by E., but from 12° N. and about 112° E., its set is from 12 to 40 miles a day to the south- eastward. On the shoals there is about 20' to the S.E., and sometimes to the South, but often no current at all. Between 7° and 8° N. lat, and 110° to 108° E. long., there is little or no current, sometimes even a slight drain to the westward. But standing over to Cape St. James a strung N.N.E. and N.E. by N. current of 36 miles a day will be found, while South of St. James it runs E.N.E. along the coast from Pulo Obi to Cape Padaran. Should the wind at starting from Hong Kong be from the S.W., stand down S.S.E. ; never think of going about till in 15° N., unless the wind should break off too much. In this track in the open sea, there is generally not over 20 miles a day of a N.E. current, especially after the strong E.N.E. China coast current, extending 60 to 75 miles South of Hong Kong, is crossed. South of 15° N. lat., and in 115° E. long., or to the East of it, is very little current. I always give the preference to the inside track, for here the winds are more variable, the sea smoother, and getting the chance of a West or N.W. squall from land. Besides this, a vessel reaches the Palawan Shoals 60 or 80 miles farther West, and westing is very difficult to make CHINA SEA. 87 there, especially after July, when the S.W. monsoon blows from W.S.W. or West. This voyage, as explained here, is quite plain and simple, but if asked, " Where were the other vessels who took from fifty to eighty-five days in their passage ?" There is but one general answer. They tried to round Cape Padaran. Here they were lying for forty consecutive days, sometimes with a dozen and more ships together. This year a barque took thirty-five days from Japan to Padaran, but sixty days from there to Cape St. James, running short of everything, and had to be provisioned by other vessels. They sometimes go as far as Sapata, but never thinking that, bound to St. James in 10° 10' N., they ought to go due South as far as 7° N. lat., and even ships on the shoals in 9° or 10° N. and about 111° E., get tempted to stand W.N.W., intending to pass between Pulo Sapata amd Pulo Ceicer. But when making the land, they find themselves between Padaran and Varela. I know several instances of this. Or that a ship made a N.N.E. course sailing W.N.W. Although some vessels did make Padaran, and made a good passage (assisted perhaps by a N.W. squall), they form an exception, and may not do the same again in ten more voyages. AVhereas the track along the shoals, and although about 300 miles longer, is pretty certain. My short advice, therefore, is, go either East or West of the Paracels, and make the shoals of Palawan as soon as possible. A ship taking the inside route should work between the Cochin China coast and 40' off it, but should not remain there in the night, as there is seldom a land breeze, but much calm. Having reached the shoals as aforesaid, work along them, standing to 60 miles off. Never think of Padaran or Sapata, and do not leave the shoals unless in 8° or 7° N. lat., as stated before, or you will surely be dis- appointed. Bound from Saigon to China in the N.E. Monsoon. — Stand out to the S.E. and tack, even if the wind should be from East 40' off the land. The wind will haul up to E.N.E. and N.E., then try to pass the S.W. current (which runs the first day at the rate of 30 to 40 miles) as fast as you can ; for about 150 miles S.E. by E. from St. James, in about 8° 30' N. and 109° E., the current runs already to the East and E.N.E. AVorking along the shoals, between them and 60 miles off from lat. 9° N., as far as North Danger, about 75 miles off, will be right in the fair N.E. and northerly current (right against the wind), but I am inclined to believe that a ship should not go nearer the shoals than about 20 miles from them, because the northerly current extends not so far East, for I have often found there no current at all. From North Danger to about 119° E., an easterly current from about 10 to 40 miles will be found. But in the early part of October the current off the North Danger runs from 10 to 15 miles to the S.E. 88 PASSAGES. Along the West coast of Lugonia the wind is from N.N.W. to N.E, and East, with fine weather and 15 to 24 miles current to the North, but from Bolina it blows generally heavy, with a high, short northerly sea. If the first puff off Bolina is passed, and 100 or 150 miles are made to the N.W., the wind and sea are getting more handy and regular, and change one or two points farther to the East. But the ship wants canvas here, and must be in good and sound condition, for the sea rises here in short and high pyramids, on account of the hitherto uninterrupted northerly current, assuming here a velocity of 52 miles a day to the N.W. by N. and N.W., and running oblique to the N.E. sea. My longest voyage in this track was twenty-two days, and my shortest nineteen days from Saigon to Hong Kong. In February and October, a ship should not go East of the Scarborough Shoal, for in Febru- ary it is not necessary, and in October there will be nothing but calms and a high northerly sea running. This voyage against the N.E. monsoon is sometimes very easy, and done in less than nineteen days. But it is in general a difficult task, especially in November, December, and January, and requires a good ship and plenty of canvas on her, especially on the West side of the Palawan shoals, where the sea, running right against a North and N.E. current, is as high and short here as from Bolina to the Pratas. But many ships in this voyage commit a great error in working along the South coast of Cochin China and try to get out of Padaran, which is nearly impossible on account of the strong W.S.W. current and always very short sea. After reaching Cape Bolina, and finding the above mentioned stiff gale and tremendous high cross sea, and thinking it blows a heavy gale all over to China, ships make a second mistake by creeping under the land again and waiting there sometimes for a fortnight, expecting better weather. And this is the same case with many ships South of Formosa when bound North along its East coast. My advice, therefore, is stand boldly out, and remember that the current will assist you first with 50, and afterwards with 20 miles a day to the N.W. by N., as far as the Pratas. And at 60 miles from the China coast the wind will be about E.N.E., and sea moderating as you close the South China coast. But keep the first day from Cape Bolina good rap full, even if you head the first day to leeward of Hong Kong, and should a ship really fall to leeward of Taytang Channel, let her proceed in at the Ladrones, from which Hong Kong will be reached in one day. If bound to Swatow, Amoy, and the northern ports of China, work as far as Cape Bayadere, and then stand out N.W. or N.N.W., making long legs to the North, and short ones to the East, especially for the first 150 miles, where the strong N.N.W. current will be under your lee. South Formosa will generally be reached in three to four days, from whence to South Pescadores, and over to Swatow and Amoy, is plain sailing, and will be reached in one tack. CHINA SEA. 89 Bound to l^'ou-Chou-Foo and further North, ships have to pass round the South Cape of Formosa, and work to the northward East of the island, where the Kuro Si wo current will assist them 40 miles a day, decreasing to 20 miles as they advance to the northern boundary of the current in about 28° N. and 125° E. long., from where Shanghae is reached without diificulty. But always remember that the cold water current runs strong to the South on the East coast of China. Bound to Fou-Chou-Foo they may cross over from 26° N. lat., and about 122J° E. long, in one tack. A voyage up and down the China Sea with the monsoon presents no diffi- culty, but I would advise captains of ships to pass East of the Paracels, for in the S.W. monsoon the winds there are more steady and fresh than inside, or West of them, and a vessel has more sea room in case of a cyclone. After having passed to the West of Macclesfield Bank, steer a N. by W. or N. by W. ^ W. course, on account of a N.E. current, and the winds blowing often from W.S.W. and West. December and January, and in some years the latter half of November, are the only months in the N.E. monsoon that I would advise to pass inside the Paracels when bound South, but which ou^ht never to be done from February to the end of May on account of calms, and always lighter winds than in the open sea. I never went inside in these months, but gained on ships which did so, from eight days to a fortnight in the months of March, April, and May, bound South, as well as in the S.W. monsoon from June to September when bound North. Every one who has perused the foregoing attentively will perceive that it is not the wind only that causes the long and troublesome passage, but that we have to consider the current as our greatest enemy. And as it has been my principal object from the beginning to make myself thoroughly acquainted with the subject, I beg leave to trouble you a little longer, and give you a slight illustration of my views about it, founded on the experience of my voyages. Currents. — In the first place, I am positive when I assert that the whole current of the South China Sea is nothing but a large circular stream, in which the waters running from South have to pass North, in order to return down South again. Coming from the North through the Formosa Channel, and from the East by the Bashees, the first getting propelled by difi'erence of specific gravity, and accelerated by the N.E. monsoon, it rushes down to the S.W., without finding material obstruction, until met by Capes Varela and Padaran. Here its waters are turned oS" to the South, part of them or the northern branch runs W.S.W. along the Saigon coast to Pulo Obi, and crossing the Gulf of Siam to Malacca ; the main body, after having passed Padaran, resumes its course to the S.S.W., but the south-eastern part branches off to the South as far as 8° N. and 109° 20' E., from where it runs to the E. and E.N.E. as far as 9° N. and 110° E. There it turns N.N.E. I. A. N 90 PASSAGES. and from 10° 30' N. 111° 20' E. to the N.N.W. into its own whirl again, to give place to new waters of the great counter stream or whirpool. This ex- planation may be new, but it is, I fully believe, quite true, for I found it every voyage, bound North in the N.E. monsoon, only differing a little in force and direction according, perhaps, to the prevailing strange or light original main current. The E.N.E. and N.E. cui-rent or the first bend in this whirl runs strongest, and from 20 to 51 miles a day, decreasing as it advances North to about 25 and 15 miles when its direction is N.N.W. I Consider this branch 50 miles broad, and the diameter of the whole whirl, from Padaran to its southern extremity, about 180 miles, and from Padaran to the S.E. about 140 miles. If this whirl did not exist, how should we account for the strong N.E. current against a strong N.E. monsoon (and for the always sharp set about Sapata which we experience, and which Horsburg and the China Pilot men- tion), sometimes when the China Sea current to the North and S.W. of this whirl runs at the rate of 40 to 80 miles a day to the south-westward. This latter current I had in October, 1866, coming down from Hong Kong with the commencement of the N.E. monsoon, or why is there not a N.E. current in the N.E. monsoon, for instance, on the Macclesfield Bank, or at Pulo Condore as well ? After this current of the aforesaid main branch has run down to the Natunas, &c., it gets obstructed again on the coast of Borneo, by which a slight drain to the East is caused, running along the North coast of Borneo, through the Palawan Passage (assisted perhaps by a part of the aforesaid eastern counter current of the Palawan whirl), and along the West coast of Lugonia, to run from Capes Bolina and Bayadere N.N.W. in the great China circular current, and commence its round via Padaran again. This circular whirl-current about Padaran is the same in the S.W. mon- soon, but in a contrary direction, but not so constant and regular as in the N.E. monsoon. H.B.M's. surveying vessel the Rifleman found the same amongst the Palawan shoals, where the commarder says, "The stronger the monsoon, the stronger the current to windward,^'' and this is according to the whirl theory quite conclusive, for the greater and stronger the counter current and the larger the whirl (and the stiffer the monsoon, the stronger is the China Sea current). I have often seen and noticed in the Saigon River, where the ebb tide runs at the rate of A knots an hoar, in the middle of the river, after turning a sharp corner it causes a great counter current or whirl, in which the waters run 2 or 3 knots up the river close alongside the 5-knot ebb tide, so that a boat, and often my own vessel, when in it, drifted up the river at the above rate. And when a small river can pro- duce such a strong whirl, what may not the mighty mass of the China Sea current be able to do ? At all events I never found it necessary with the above N.E. current in the N.E. monsoon to take the Palawan Route, and CHINA SEA. 91 my results have shown that I never was behind, but generally ahead of those vessels which did take that dangerous Palawan Route. This whirl current to the West of the Palawan shoals may also account for the different currents found by vessels which are working there at the same time, where one ship beats right in the counter stream, whilst the other is too far West or inside the whirl, or too far East and out of its influence altogether. And these little whirls are to be found around all the shoals in the China Sea, and although Horsburg recommends passing to leeward of all shoals, I have great reason from my own experience for cautioning cap- tains even there. To leeward of the Pratas I found on two voyages the current setting East, or right on the shoals, against a stiff N.E. monsoon in the months of December and January. Although this is the general current it is nevertheless liable to irregularities and changes, in force and direction, and perhaps more than anywhere else, which is not at all surprising in a small sea like this, full of islands and shoals, and entirely enclosed by land, causing different winds on either side of it, and on which the current so much depends. For sometimes it blows a stiff N.E. gale to the North, while it is calm South of the Paracels, and commanders expecting perhaps a slight current are surprised to find one sometimes of 50 miles by observation, but in eight cases out of ten the above explained current will be found pretty correct. And lastly, I take the opportunity to caution captains against trusting too much to red or green lights when in the vicinity of the Pratas and Paracels, for they are often exhibited by wreckers and pirates, especially at the Pratas. I once observed a green light to windward of me on the West side of the Pratas. I kept four points off, and being a clear night, I went aloft with my glass, and saw two junks, one of which carried the light. CHINA AND JAPAN. The following remarks on the passages along the Coast of China and be- tween China and Japan are taken chiefly from the China Sea Directory, and are supplementary to those previously given which describe the best routes for approaching the southern ports of China. 19. PASSAGES ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA. Passage East of Formosa. — When bound from Hong Kong to Ning-po, or Shanghai, or even to Fu-chau fu, during the N.E. monsoon, a vessel should be in good condition for contending with rough weather and for carrying sail. The best plan appears to be, to work along the coast as far 92 PASSAGES. as Breaker Point,* and then stretch across to the South end of Formosa, and work up eastward of that island. By remaining in with the coast of China, she will have the advantage of the land wind at night, of smoother water, and the ebb tide out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her le© on the starboard tack, and in the event of its blowing too hard to make way, there are numerous convenient anchorages. It will be prudent to keep within 10 miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward whilst standing off the land; but as this cannot be done at night without risk, a vessel should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the middle watch, when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will enable her to make a good board on the off shore tack. By passing eastward of Formosa, also, a heavy short sea in the Formosa Channel will be avoided, as well as the constant set to the southward during the season. After rounding the South end of Formosa, off which there is generally & troublesome sea, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep with- in the influence of the Kuro siwo or Japan stream, which has sometimes been found running northward at the rate of 30 or 40 miles per day. There are no harbours on the East coast of Formosa, except Su-au Bay, tow^ards the North end of the island, and deep water will be found close to the land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea ; their sides in some places are cultivated, and a good many houses will be seen. H.M. brig Plover anchored on an uneven bottom in Black Rock Bay, the vessel swinging from 13 to 22 fathoms, and rode out a gale from the S.W. ; but it is by no means to be recommended. Having weathered the North end of Formosa, it will be still advisable to keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parallel of lat. 30^° N. is gained. Should, however, a vessel be driven to the westward, she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able to tide it through the southern part of the Chusan Archipelago ; and if disabled and in want of * Towards the close of the N.E. monsoon, and still later, it would seem preferable to cross over towards Luzon rather th.in beat up to Breaker Point against tresh N.E. breezes, as the following remarks of Captain David W. Stephens, of the British ship Sarkaway, tend to show;—" Ships from Hong Kong, bound through the Bashee or any of the other channels between Formosa and Luzon, from March to June inclusive, but more particularly in March and April, during brisk N.E. winds and a strong westerly current, frequently take a week beating along shore to reach Breaker Point before standing off; whereas, if after clearing the Lema Channel the vessels had stood off on a wind, clean full to the S.E., they would soon have got out of the westerly current, and on nearing Luzon would expe- rience the wind more from the eastward and sometimes from S.E., enabling them to tack to the N.N.E. with a strong current in their favour, and thus would probably get to the east- ward of Formosa in less time than it would have taken to reach Breaker Point by keeping along the Coast of China." CHINA SEA. 93 spars, she can remain at the southern side of Duffield Pass, and supply her- self from the Fu-chau wood junks. Upon this part of the voyage the following remarks, which appeared in the "Mercantile Marine Magazine" for 1865, will be interesting. They are by Capt. James Turnbull, of the Glen Clune, of Glasgow, and relate to an outward voyage made in September, 1864. The object of nearing Formosa, is to get into an easterly set in-shore, working round and joining the permanent great stream from the Pacific on the East side near Botel Tobago. This set is found as soon as the N.E. monsoon has set down the Formosa Channel, impelling the water, and thus making it perform the entire circuit of the island, down the West and up the East coast. While working off the South coast, wind northing, stood right for the Bashees, there tacked and fetched Botel Tobago, when we were fairly in the Japan current, temperature of water 83°, average daily set 30 to 36 miles N.N.E.. and made 70 to 80 miles per diem. From the East cape, too many vessels still commit the mistake of working to the northward, direct for Shanghai, whereas the current sets north-easterly right over the Hoa-pin-su Group. Follow it, drawing for its western edge a curve line from the E&st cape to 30 miles West of Hoa-pin-su, and on to the East side of the Linschoten or Cecille Group. Its eastern edge cannot be so well defined, but draw a line from Kumi to East of Raleigh Rock, and then past Sulphur Island and West of Lu-chu Group. The reason the western edge is better defined is, that it follows a sudden rise of the bottom, from ocean depth to about 50 fathoms. If you have an atlas on board, you will find the Japan stream placed 2° and 3° further south-easterly, that is just where a vessel woiild get the back eddies southwards, — any representa- tion that I have seen nf it being merely from the guesswork of generalisa- tion, not from actual observation. When the winter has set in the tempera- ture is a good guide on its N. W. side ; but in summer and fall, the heat of the water right up to the in-shore set of the China coast is nearly the same, 81° to 82°. From Botel Tobago to off Sulphur Island I beat up in six days, then tacked, heading N.W. by W., and in two days fetched the Jight-ship, The Anglo Saxon and Sir W. F. Williams did the same with somewhat similar success, while of those who fought away North of Formosa, one went down, others sought refuge at Amoy to refit, and some came dropping in towards the middle of October, assisted by the southerly winds that often succeed the first six weeks of the N.E. monsoon. The sea is much the same as in the American Gulf Stream, and vessels that cannot stand it ought not to be sent to China. On making the Barren Islands, as nearly the whole flood tide sets S.W., keep to windward, and do not be tempted to seek shelter under the Saddle Islands. Either work in the open sea under a press of sail ; or, if possible, stand on until near the Amherst Rocks, when, if dark, anchor. You will 94 PASSAGES. have rough riding, but the pilot boats and coasters do so at all times in pre- ference to seeking shelter to leeward, as, in spite of the sailing directions, it is difficult to get back. Pilots are now in abundance, and in the N.E. .mon- Boon ships run up to Wusung, and there take steam. Amoy to Rivbr Min. — If bound from Hong Kong to Amoy, or the ports between that place and the River Min, a vessel will generally find a diffi- culty in getting round Breaker Point ; for the tide here is of no use, and all there is to assist is the likelihood that the wind will draw off the land after midnight, when, by being in-shore, a good board can be made, and possibly the Cape of Good Hope reached. Haimun Bay cannot be recommended, but still it would be better to anchor there than to be carried round the point. In this case, should West Hill be obscured, run in under the point, lower a boat, and let her find the sunken rock, and then come in with good way to windward of Parkyns Eock — if drawing less than 13 ft. — and shoot up round the boat into Fort Bay. Having reached the Cape of Good Hope, the flood will assist a vessel to round it, and the ebb out of the Han River will be a weather tide ; in the latter case, and not intending to go inside Namoa Island, endeavour to get along the South side of the island, where there is an eddy tide, and anchor in South Bay, should the weather prove too bad to proceed on the flood ; both tides will be found strong off Three Chimney Point, and the same may be said of Jakako Point, round which vessels should take the first of the flood on the port tack. Further northward about Rees Island, the flood tide in strong winds causes an uneasy sea, which will distress a vessel much. Red and Ting-tae Bays will be found good stopping-places ; and the latter should be preferred, though at the loss of 2 or 3 miles, to anchoring in an exposed position in the entrance to Amoy Harbour; as when the N.E. winds freshen off here on the flood, they generally bring a mist in with them, which makes it difficult to find the entrance, and at the same time a vessel will have trouble to get out of the harbour against the tide. To the northward of Amoy or Leeo-lu and Hu-i-tau Bays, both of which afford good shelter. Chimmo Bay is not so good ; but with plenty of good ground tackle vessels may ride in it. The current in the monsoon over- comes the tide here ; and advantage must be taken of every slant of wind, bearing in mind that it is likely to draw off the land in the middle watch, pnd in the event of anchoring for shelter, this is the time to start, should the wind moderate ; by waiting for daylight vessels lose their offing, and will have to make an off-shore board at a loss. The fogs are at times thick, but the lead is not a bad guide, as the soundings generally change from sand to mud as the shore is approached. There is also fair anchorage under Pyramid Point, but not so good as that under the South Yit ; and if the CHINA AND JAPAN. 95 vessel is looking up North, or anything East of it, the ebb out of Meichen Sound will be of assistance. From the Lam-yit Islands or the South end of Hai-tan Strait to the Whit© Dogs is beyond doubt the most difficult part of the passage. With steamers the strait will afford the best route ; but sailing vessels should decidedly keep outside, and stretch over to the N.W. coast of Formosa, where they are likely to get a slant of wind, and the advantage of a weather tide j and as this portion of the coast has been surveyed, by attention to the sound- ings no vessel can come to any harm. EivER Mm TO Chusajj- Archipelago. — North of the Eiver Min the ebb is generally a weather tide (unless the wind is far to the North), and out of the river, and off Ting-hai and Sam-sah Bays, vessels will get a good lift ; and with the flood, the indraught into the latter will be sensibly felt as far out as Larne Islet, and increases to 2 and 3 knots as the main ia closed. As a general rule, tack for the in-shore tide, when the moon is on the meridian, Tung-ying Island will be found a strong anchorage, and here the coast should be forsaken (unless the vessel is under 12 ft. draught), and the deep water to the eastward kept in. The tide will afford but little assistance un- til the vessel arrives at the Chusan Archipelago ; the flood causes an un- easy sea in the shallow water, while the ebb has too much southing in it;, unless the wind is eastward of E.N. E. ; but Nam-ki and Pih-ki-shan Islands will afford good shelter. On reaching the Chusan Archipelago, take the Beak Head Channel, unless the tide is nearly done, in which case there is Harbour Eouse and the South side of Luhwang Island as anchorages under the lee ; and as the first of th© ebb runs to the northward through the Foto Channels, the tide through may be saved, and anchorage gained on the Ketau shore. From hence,, if bound to Ting-hai Harbour, contrive to arrive at the West end of Tower Hill Island about slack water ; otherwise, in light winds, the vessel is liable to be carried on to Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Blackwall Channel. In working through the North part of the Chusan Archipelago, as the set of the ebb and flood trends nearly East and West, advantage can always be taken of the tide, and vessels may count on feeling the influence of the ebb within an hour of the moon's meridian passage. When in the vicinity of Gutzlaff Island the first of the flood takes a direction to the southward of West, running into Hang-chu Bay. The eddy tide, generally speaking, will carry vessels clear of the large islands ; but when they are approaching detached rocks, great attention is required to prevent being set in amongst them. 96 PASSAGES. In-shoke Passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse Kiang.— These directions for making the in-shore passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse Kiang by vessels of moderate steam power, during the N.E. monsoon, are drawn up from a report by Commander C. E. Buckle, H.M.S. Frolic, 1876, aided by Mr. T. E. Cocker, commanding the Chinese Eevenue Cruiser Ling- feng. A vessel should leave Hong Kong in time to anchor under Tam-tu Island for the night, if necessary, or by leaving earlier, to reach the well sheltered anchorage in Samun Road, between Tuni-ang and Samun Islands ; or in Harlem Bay. Leaving Tam-tu at daylight, pass out through Tathong Channel ; after rounding Tam-tu Island, steer to the westward of Nine-pin Group for Basalt Island, thence North of Tuni-ang Island for Harlem Bay. If in fine weather, and keeping to the southward, pass near to Single Island. Prom Harlem Bay, pass on either side of Middle Rock, round Eokai Point, and North of Pauk-Piah ; thence steer for Goat Island, where good anchor- age may be obtained on the N. W. side of the island. A vessel may either proceed to the southward of Goat Island and North of Reef Islands for Chelang Point, or pass to the southward of Reef Islands, and thence for Tong-mi Point (good anchorage wiU be found in Chino Bay). Pass to the northward of Si-ki Island, and South of Tung-ki, thence for Hutung Point and Turtle Rock, from which steer in-shore for, and through, Tungao Roads, tolerably near White Rock and to the southward of Corea Rock. Having rounded Breaker Point, not nearer than 2 miles, steer to pass near Tong-lae Point into Haimun Bay, South of Parkyns Rock into Hope Bay, where there is good anchorage during the N.E. monsoon. From abreast Swatow, steer to pass about half a mile to the eastward of Fort Island (giving Dove Rock, off Swatow, a good berth), being careful not to mistake either of the cones or hummocks of Fort Island, which appear detached, for the more distant Brig Island. If it be desirable to pass South of Namoa, the best anchorage for small vessels will be found in South Bay. When rounding the S.E. point of Namoa Island, care is necessary to avoid Glen- gyle Rock. Passing North of Namoa, keep a good look-out for the heavy fishing stakes extending from Clipper Point, and proceed for Breaker Island. From Fort Head, steer towards Chauan Head for Owick Bay, where good anchor- age will be obtained, with the rock off Owick Point bearing S.S.E. ^ E., and Jokako Peak N.E. f E. In this bay it will be almost calm when there is a good breeze outside. From Owick Bay steer for Bell Island ; or, if keeping in-shore, haul out when closing this island, and pass to the southward of it. Between Bell and Square Islands a very disturbed sea and tide rip will be experienced ; keep towards Jokako Point and into Jokako Bay, gradually hauling out to paes CHINA AND JAPAN. 97 about half a mile from the rocks off Cone Point, from which steer for Pagoda Island, gradually hauling out to pass close under Thunder Head, thence steer to the southward of Rees Rock. From Rees Pass, steer for the Hu- tau-shan River bar, and gradually haul out to pass about half a mile off Black Head and Tagau Point ; passing tolerably close to and eastward of Hut Islet, thence westward of Spire Islet, and mid-channel between Crab Point and Cleft Islet, which is a desirable channel. Between Spire Islet and Cork Point there is usually a rough sea, and the coast should be fol- lowed as closely as Shun Rock will admit. Anchorage may be obtained in Red Bay. The distance from Cork Point to the outer anchorage of Amoy may easily be run during a fine night, the islands and headlands showing out plainly : — ■ Leaving Red Bay, give Cork Point a good berth, and steer to the westward of House Hill Point, edging out when closing the latter point ; thence for Notch Island and along the coast for Table Head (off which some rocks are said to exist), and Chin-ha Point. Proceeding to the northward, outside Amoy, steer for Leeo-lu Bay, in which, by passing close to Leeo-lu Head, good anchorage will, if required, be found. Prom Leeo-lu, steer to clear Dodd Ledge thence along the coast, keeping inshore. Safe anchorage may be found under Tongbu in addition to the many good anchorages shown on the chart. Sorrel Rock may be passed either on the East or West sides, and with a strong breeze a vessel may pass North of Loutz Shoal, through Lamyit Channel, and make for Hai-tan Strait. If the weather be fine, pass to the southward of Sorrel Rock, skirt Lamyit Islands, thence for Turnabout Island"* and Hai Head. Good anchorage will be obtained under Hai Head, with Turnabout Island shut in. Prom Hai Head, steer towards the White Dog Islands, passing westward of that group thence to Matson Diplo, and Spider Islands, between Spider and Cony Islands, or to the westward of Spider Island, and through Seaon Channel, thence to Fuh-yan or through the Chuh-pi Pass, to anchorage in Lishan Bay. From Fuh-yan, keep along the coast, and pass between Tung- pwan and Shroud Islands, thence into Bullock Harbour, if necessary. Leaving Bullock Harbour, pass out between Pwan-peen and the northern Tseigh Islands, eastward of Coin Island, and southward of Hea-chu, off the Tai-chou Islands: — With a strong breeze a vessel may steer from Coin Island to pass between Taluk and Chin-ki, thence between San-shi Islands and Stragglers, to good anchorage under Shetung. Proceed between Chik- hok and Low Chikhok, West of Squall Islands, and between Fir Coin and * A sunken rock, on which the S.S. Sunda struck, in 1875, is said to be situated from 1 to 1^ mile northward of Turnabout Island, I. A. O 98 PASSAGES. Chuh-sen, to good anchorage westward of Gau-tau Island. Proceeding to the northward from this anchorage, pass between Kinmen and Gau-tau Islands. In fine weather pass to the eastward of Heroine Rock (the ac- cepted position of this rock, as given by the U.S.S. Ashuelot, being S.E. by E. f E., 4 miles from the S.W. end of Lea-ming Island) and Twins, or in a strong wind steer for Cape Conway and through Sheipoo Roads. Fair anchorage in a N.W. wind will be obtained under the northern Kweshan Island, but there is a better anchorage to the N.W. of Castle Rock. It is, however, advisable to get as close to Gough Pass for the night as pos- sible, ready to go through at daylight, or if in time, go through the pass and anchor for the night near Sing-lo Island. After passing Sing-lo Island pro- ceed through Tower Hill and Blackwall Channels ; anchorage may be found under Dunsterville or Volcano Islands, both of which should be left to the eastward on passing, thence steer for Rug:ged Islands. Care is necessary when navigating this part of the coast, as the tides run strong. It should be borne in mind, that at all times during the N.E. monsoon the weather is uncertain, and strong breezes set in without any warning, sometimes lasting for two or three days, or even more. Fogs are experienced in the early part of the year in the same manner. No vessels of small steam power should attempt to proceed northward during the N.E. monsoon, except by the inshore passage, and the same might be said of the typhoon season. Passages in S.W. Monsoon. — There will not be the same difB.culty in getting to the southward against the southerly monsoon, as there is in going to the northward against the other, as it is not so permanent in its direction, and land and sea breezes prevail ; the current has generally been found running strong to the northward in the Formosa Channel, but vessels are not liable to the same detention which they often experience in the northerly monsoon. Care, however, must be taken not to overshoot the port. Fogs prevail in the early part of the season, and render the navigation at times as harassing as it is in the N.E. monsoon ; they, however, generally lift in the vicinity of the land, and a ship's length from where the bowsprit can hardly be seen will carry her into sunshine. The chief difficulty to overcome in making the passage between the Gulf of Pe-chili and Hong Kong during the southerly monsoon is the strong easterly or north easterly current. After passing the parallel of the Yang- tse kiang, it will be advisable to keep near the China coast ; for although a vessel may lie up South or S. by E. on the starboard tack, it should be re- membered that she is making little better than a S.E. (ourse in consequence of the easterly set. A stretch to the north-westward, though apparently a loss of ground, will ultimately prove useful. CHINA AND JAPAN. 99 H.M.S. Pique, Capt. Sir Frederick Nicolson, C.B., in making this passage in July and August, was not favoured when close in shore by any land and sea breezes, nor had the least slant, but generally lost the wind. A weather tide was occasionally felt when near the shore in the Formosa Channel. Although the constant adverse current makes this a tedious passage against the monsoon, there is nothing to prevent a vessel of moderate sailing qualities making the passage at this season. The Pique had seldom more than single-reefed topsails, and the sea was generally smooth ; she made the passage from the Gulf of Pe-chili to Hong Kong in 31 days. It would appear that North of the tropic to the parallel of 30° N., North and N.E. winds prevail during the greater part of the year, but alternating with calms, variables, and S.W. winds during the summer months. 20.— PASSAGES BETWEEN CHINA AND JAPAN. DUEING THE NOETH-EAST MONSOON.— Hong Kong to Yedo.— A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo at this season, should work up the Coast of China as far as Breaker Point (or see note, page 92), taking care to be always under the land at nightfall, the wind during the night always hauling to the northward (off the land), when she may make a long tack off, standing in again in the morning when the wind shifts to the N.E., and fre- quently more easterly still. From Breaker Point the vessel may then stand across with the wind free tor the South end of Formosa, experiencing a southerly set whilst in the Formosa Channel ; but on nearing the island she will lose it, and on passing South Cape fall in with the Kuro Siwo setting to the N.E. Having passed South Cape Formosa, the vessel may work up the coast of that island, passing between it and the Meiaco Sima Group, and to the west- ward of the Liu-Kiu Islands, having the current with her as far as the parallel of 26° N., beyond which parallel she will experience no current until 30° N., where a strong current will be found setting to the eastward, the wind also being more from the North and West. She may then pass through any of the channels between the islands lying off the South point of Japan, after which, keeping at about from 50 to 10 miles from the land, in the strength of the Kuro Siwo, she may make the lights at Oo Sima (entrance of the Kii Channel), and passing them at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles, may steer to pass just outside Mikomoto (Eock Island). From Yedo to Hong Kong. — On leaving the Gulf of Yeao, stand to the south-westward as far as 28° S. and 135° E., whence a course may be shaped to pass northward of Kakirouma, one of the Liu-Kiu Group, thus avoiding the influence of the Kuro Siwo. After passing Iwo Sima, a straight course may be steered for Tung Ying, on making which island stand down the China coast for Hong Kong- 100 PASSAGES. Fbom Shanghae to Nagasaki. — At this season, if the wind is to the east- ward of North, it would be well on leaving the Yang-tse to stand to the north-westward on the starboai'd tack, and when the wind hauls round to the north-westward, which it will as the ship advances northward, tack, and steer a straight course for Nagasaki, making allowance for the south-easterly and easterly set from the Yellow Sea and Korea Strait, otherwise the ship may be swept to the eastward through Van Diemen Strait. During the periodic easterly winds (variable between E.N.E. and S.E.) which prevail on the China coast in the vicinity of the Yang-tse, from March to June inclusive, with a sailing vessel, every opportunity must betaken to make easting, even with a fair wind, which it may be almost surely inferred will be but of short duration. In May and June, however, the set of the current will be changed, and will be found running to the north-eastward ; under these circumstances there is a probability that a vessel kept on the starboard tack would be set over to the Korean Archipelago. With these considerations the navigator must act on his own judgment, there being only difficulty in making the passage, when baffling winds, and thick, rainy, and squally weather are met with in the vicinity of the Meac Sima, the Pallas, or the Goto Islands, or they are passed on dark nights. If not, therefore, sure of the vessel's posi- tion, it would be well to make them in the daytime, unless the nights are moderatel}' fine. Hakodate through Korea Strait. — If bound on to Hakodate at the same season, or even as late as the end of June, it will be found difficult with a sailing vessel to make easting at all along the West coast of Nipon. It will be advantageous in April, May, and June, to pass well East of Tsu Sima in the strength of the Japan stream, which sets N.E. by N. through the Korea Strait, attaining at times, although not constant, a velocity of 2 knots an hour. Should a S.W. wind occur at this season, it may be ex- pected to last only 24 hours, unless it follow an easterlj' gale with depressed barometer. During the winter, gales from North and N.W. are very fre- quent in the Korea Strait, lasting three or four days, and are sometimes violent. A rapidly falling barometer indicates their approach, the wind in- creasing in force after the mercury commences to rise, and not attaining its height until 24 hours after. In such weather, if making for Nagasaki on the purt tack, beware of being blown to leeward into Van Diemen Strait, for if set through by the Japan stream it will take a long time to regain the lost ground against the current (one vessel having been nearly three weeks en- deavouring to beat round Cape ChichakofF) ; and if on the starboard tack, there is probability of being set up the Korea Strait to the northward of Ose Saki. As both cases have happened to vessels, it is recommended that they should endeavour to make the land in daylight, and find anchorage, or secure a knowledge of their position. In winter, when N.W. and West winds prevail, a direct course should be CHINA AND JAPAN. 101 Bteered from the Korea Strait when bound to Hakodate ; but if bound from Hakodate southward, it is necessary to endeavour to make westing when possible, and keep a long offing, for the coast of Nipon is a lee shore. After passing Korea Strait as well to windward as possible, the winds will be found more liable to change when arrived at lat. 32° N., long. 125"^ E., but sometimes they continue so steadily between N.W. and "SV.S.W. as to set a vessel to leeward of the Tang-tse. Shaxgitae to Yedo. — On leaving the Yang-tse, the wind will be rarely found as far to the eastward as N.E. ; it is best, therefore, to keep the ship on the starboard tack, remembering that she will be set to the eastward towards Yan Diemen Strait, after passing which, pursue the same route as directed in the passage from Hong Kong. DUEING THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON.— Hong Koxg to Yedo.— A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo should run up the China coast aa far as Tung Ying, then shape a course for Akusi Sima, one of the Linschoten group. On passing the meridian of 125'' E. the set will be strong to the north-eastward. Pass through any of the channels between the islands South of Japan in preference to Yan Diemen Strait, as the dense fogs which hang over the coast at this season render the navigation of this strait diffir cult, whilst farther seaward, when in the warm stream of the Kuro Siwo, the atmosphere is bright and clear. After passing the channel steer to make the lights at Oo Sima, remembering the current sets along the coast of Japan to the north-eastward at this season from 2 to 4^ knots an hour. After passing Oo Sima at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles, steer for Mikimoto (Eock Island) light. If bound from Hong Kong to Nagasaki, after leaving Tung Ying steer for Meac Sima, passing between which group and the Pallas Rocks, a course E.N.E. 80 miles will place the ship off the lighthouse on Signal Head (the North point of Iwo Simaj at the entrance to Nagasaki Harbour, on nearing which it should not be brought to bear northward of E.N.E. From Yedo to Hong Kong. — This passage is so seldom made by sailing vessels that very little is known of the best route to be pursued ; the follow- ing, however, is recommended : — On leaving the Gulf of Yedo shape a course to the south-eastward, to cross the parallel of 30° N in about 145° E., and, passing East of St. Mar- garet's Island, cross the meridian of 140° E. in lat. 21° N., thence steer (with a favourable current) for the N.E. point of Luzon, on passing which enter the China Sea, when a direct course may be shaped for Hong Kong, taking care to allow for the drift-current setting to the N.E. at this season. It may here be remarked, that this route lies directly across the paths of the typhoons, which are prevalent in the tropics at this period. This voyage is rarely made, as sailing vessels so take advantage of the monsoons that they leave Hong Kong for the northern ports and Japan at 102 PASSAGES. the commencement of the S.W. monsoon, and, remaining at the ports of the latter islands until the monsoon takes oflF, leave for the South at the com- mencement of the N.E. monsoon. Steamers, however, run at all times between the two places, and at this season usually on leaving Yedo Gulf, and, passing Mikomoto, keep well in shore to Oo Sima, passing which they keep up the Kii Channel through Isumi Strait and the Inland Sea. On passing Simonoseki Strait, if not bound to Nagasaki, they keep to westward of the Goto Islands, and making the Saddle Islands off the Yang-tse, keep close to the shore, and from thence pursue the same course to the southward as vessels bound from Shaghae to Hong Kong. From Shanghae to Nagasaki. — On leaving the Yang-tse, steer to pass between the Pallas Eocks and Meac Sima (Asses' Ears), which last is visible in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles. The current will bo found setting to the north-eastward through Korea Straits ; cai-e must be taken, therefore, to avoid being set to the northward of Ose Saki, the South point of the Goto Islands, as the current during the S.W". monsoon is often strong in this locality. Passing the Amherst Eocks, a course E. f N. 390 miles will lead midway between the Pallas Eocks and Ose Saki (Cape Goto). The foregoing is a general account of the tracks most usually followed in traversing the Indian Archipelago or the China Sea. The more particular instructions for each locality will be found in their respective places here- after. In such a variety of routes there is necessarily some diversity of opinion as to which is best, and this has not been lessened of late years by the increased variety in the build and trim of the vessels employed in oriental commerce. The route practicable and advantageous to the swift sailing clipper cannot be followed by the heavy-laden and slow-sailing ship of former years. In what is here given, these different routes are each given, some from older authorities, some from recent experience. Some of the best tracks have been avoided from our ignorance of their nature, and their supposed dangerous character. This is fast disappearing before increased kno^vledge, and it may be predicted that some settled system for the naviga- tion wiU be established in the course of a few years. PART IT, DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS. In the succeeding pages will be found a detailed description of the shores and seas of the Indian Archipelago and China, commencing with the Strait of Malacca, and proceeding thence southward and eastward in regular suc- cession. This arrangement has been preferred to that of following a parti- cular voyage in one direction, as the present exigences of Oriental commerce require the subject to be considered in such varied aspects, that no other than a strictly geographic arrangement can be applicable to every case. The plan of the future pages will be thus readily understood. Physical Geography. — The Indian Archipelago presents many remarkable features, worthy of the consideration of the passing navigator, as some of ita peculiarities will thereby become better understood. This subject was well treated by Mr. Geo. W. Earl, and more recently, in its relation to animal and vegetable life, by Mr. Alfred Russell Wallace. The first great feature of its constitution is the line of active volcanoes which encircle the whole of the north-western and most extensive area. A line of spiracles and rugged mountains from which they issue may be fol- lowed from Cheduba, in the Bay of Bengal, to the Andaman Islands, pass- ing through the entire length of Sumatra, nearer to its S. W. coast ; is con- tinued along the southern part of Java, and passes through the chain of islands to the eastward, which are separated by narrow but very deep channels. Thence past the North part of Timor towards New Guinea, where it is met by another chain running from N.N.W., where it may be traced along Kamscharka through the Kurile Islands, Japan, Loo Choo, and the Philippines, after which it divides into two branches, the western passing down to the Moluccas, &c., past Celebes, and joining the first-named line at the West end of New Guinea, and hereabout its greatest efiects are evident, in the fantastic forms it has given to Celebes and Gillolo and other islands. These rise abruptly from immense depths,* and to this and other causes may be attributed that want of fertility which characterises them : the rich soil caused by the decomposition of the rocks and vegetation being washed away from their arid surfaces into the deep ocean. The two lines of volcanic action * H.M.S. 6Vja//e«/7er found a depth of 2,150 fathoms between Celebes and Gilolo, 2,550 fathoms off the S.W. end of Mindanao, and similar depths in most parts of her track from Torres Straits through the Molucca Passage, Celebes and Sulu Seas, to Manila. 104 DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS. thus united may be followed to the eastward along the North coast of New Guinea, along the Louisiade Archipelago, to New Ireland along the Solomau Group towards the New Hebrides, and may be seen in detached spots as far as New Zealand, and the islands South of it. This volcanic band is of a totally distinct character in its productions to the other parts of the Archipelago. As in all other parts of the world, the volcanic rocks, which are easily and rapidly decomposed by atmospheric in- fluences, form a soil of unparalleled fertility when cultivated, although there are few useful natural productions, unless the nutmeg be so considered. This feature has attracted the numerous European settlements which are scattered along the bases of these chains, where the sugar and coffee plantaions of Java, and the spice groves of the more eastern islands, afford such materials for commercial enterprise, which would seem to be almost illimitable. Mineral treasures are not to be hoped for in these ranges ; the action of the volcanic heat has so altered the character of the superimposed rocks, that they afford nothing to the metallurgist. The second great feature which may be noticed are those parallel lines of primary rocks which trend in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction across the archipelago, as well as in the countries of Asia to the northward, and across the continent of Australia to the southward. The chain which forms the backbone of the Malayan Peninsula is perhaps the most conspicuous of these ; it may be traced southwards through Banka, &c. It is in this forma- tion where the great deposits of metal are most abundant, or at least most easily worked, as in the famous gold and tin mines of Malaya, and the Banka tin mines. Sumatra, apart from its volcanic ridge, affords another example of these primary ridges. A third traverses Cambodia, &c., showing itself at Pulo Condore and the Natunas, and then reappears at the N.W. end of Borneo, and is lost on the North coast of Borneo. Another passes along the coast of Cochin China, traverses a portion of Borneo and the southern part of Celebes. One feature of these ridges is the existence of the teak tree, which only flourishes on them. When this important tree is transplanted on to the rich volcanic soil, it languishes. A third feature is the great banks which extend from Asia and Australia, but do not join. This was first pointed out in their relation to their pro- ductions by Mr. Windsor Earl. He says : These banks of soundings, which extend from the continents of Asia and Australia, form very remarkable features in the geography of this part of the world, and, as such, are de- serving of more attention than has hitherto been bestowed upon them, since it will be found that all the countries lying upon these banks partake of the character of the continents to which they are attached; while those which are situated on the deep sea which separates them are all of comparatively recent volcanic formation, with the exception of a few small coral islands, which are in all probability constructed upon the summits of submerged DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS. 105 volcanoGS. The depths on these banks average about 30 fathoms, deepening rapidly as the ed^e is approached, and shoals gradually toward the land. The great Asiatic Bank extends into the archipelago to a distance of nearly 1,000 miles; in fact, to within 50 miles of Celebes, and perhaps farther. The great bank which fronts the North and N.W. coasts of Australia commences near the N.W. cape, and extends in a N.E. direction to New Guinea, where it terminates at the base of the high but narrow mountain range that unites the western with the eastern part of that great island, and separates the Banda Sea from the Pacific. It is at this point that the edge of the bank is most remote from Australia, its edge being 400 miles distant from it. It appears ap:ain on the South coast of New Guinea, near Torres Strait, and extends along the N.E. coast of Australia. The Arru Islands and New Guinea are thus united to Australia, and possess in common some features hitherto supposed to belong exclusively to Australia, such as the kangaroo, «S:c. The volcanic islands between these great shoals appear to have a world of their own, different from the countries on either side. This remarkable feature cannot be dilated on, but may be followed in the excellent papers given by Mr. A. R. Wallace. It would seem as if the animal life especially belonged to a different order generally from that found on the neighbouring continents, and is even different between adjacent islands, so that these anomalies have given rise to some interesting speculations. Respecting our knowledge of the coasts and seas, it is of varied character. Although much more perfect than it was a few years since, there are some serious defects in the hydrography of the archipelago, especially in the eastern portion of the area. The surveyors of the East India Company in former years, and our Admiralty hydrographers in later times, have examined the principal passages leading into the China Sea, as the StrHits of Malacca and Singapore, Banka, &c. The Dutch Government have given charts and directions for the ct;untries adjacent to these possessions, such as Sunda Strait and the coasts of Java, and the nautical world owes much to the Dutch commission for the improvement of charts and navigation. Under the auspices of this body a fine series of charts, of various and extensive por- tions of the archipelago, were published. These have since been mostly copied by our Admiralty. For the Spanish possessions in the Philippine Islands, &c., we have the older and modern surveys of that nation. The coast of China has been excellently surveyed by our Admiralty. All these authorities will be generally enumerated in the course of the ensuing pages. Before proceeding with the descriptions, we must make our general ac- knowledgement of indeotedness to the China Sea Directory, published by the Admiralty. This work, derived from many sources, gives a correct picture of our present knowledge, and is therefore deserving of all confidence. I. A. P CHAPTER III. THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. This great highway into the China Sea may be considered to be limited on the N.W. by a line joining Acheen Head and the South point of Junksey- lon, which would be about 225 miles in length ; and from this limit to the Carimon Isles, at its S.E. end, is 500 miles, so that it has more the character of an inland sea than a channel between Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula. In a more contracted sense it may be said to commence at Diamond Point on Sumatra, and Pulo Penang on the Malayan side, and these are 164 miles apart East and West. The monsoons, interrupted by the high land of Sumatra on the one hand, and that of the Malay Peninsula on the other, each crossing the line of their normal direction, are only felt for a short distance within the respective en- trances, and from its position so near to the equator, the strait is subject to baffling and light winds and calms. In a former page the peculiarities of the winds and seasons have been referred to. Its coasts have not been completely surveyed, but partial examinations have been made by Lieuts. Woore, W. Eose, and Capts. Moresby and C. Y. Ward. The charts, it is believed, are sufficiently complete for the safety of its navigation, which, under proper precaution, is free from danger. The British Possessions, called the Straits Settlements, are the Province Wellesley, a strip of coast on the Malay Peninsula, about 10 miles broad and 35 miles long, at the back of Pulo Penang^ also a British possession, a patch of country, 22 miles in length from North to South, with the island of Pancore lying off its southern portion, as hereafter described. The terri- tory of Malacca, about 40 miles in length, and 25 miles in mean breadth, •with its capital of the same name, and the great commercial emporium Singapore. These form a governorship, which, till the year 1S51, was sub- ject to the jurisdiction of Bengal. In that year it was placed under the Indian Board ; and on January 1st, 1867, it was transferred from that of India to the Colonial Office, and some changes were made in their constitu- tion. Each of these settlements is largely peopled with Chinese immigrants, who are the most industrious of the people. The Malay States from North PENANG. 107 to South are named as follows — Quedah (Wellesley), Perak (Dinding), Sa- langore (Malacca), and Johore. The maritime population of these would be formidable pirates, were it not for the vigilance of the states cruizers, and gun- boats of light draught, which can follow the delinquents into the shelter of their rivers. Notwithstanding this, small vessels and boat parties should be on their guard, as among a population of this character, where morality is at so low an ebb, it is only a fear of being overpowered in the attempt, or found out and punished after the act is committed, which deters them from similar acts of violence to those committed in years gone by. In recent years British Residents have been placed as advisers to the rulers of the different native states, and it is hoped by these means to increase the trade and otherwise improve the government of the peninsula. The greatest mineral production of the country is tin, which seems to be met with in almost every part of the interior, and in very great abundance. The tin districts which have been most worked of late years are situated at Klang, in Salangore ; at Laroot, in Perak ; and at Linghie, near Malacca. "The mines in these districts," says Mr. Braddell, in 1874, "are so rich, and the profit of working them has been so great, that, notwithstanding the difficulties in dealing with the Malay chiefs as to the royalty to be paid, and notwithstanding the oppression of the chiefs, and the frequent massacres of the Chinese miners, they are still attracted to the place, and succeed yearly in sending large quantities of tin to Singapore and Penang." THE EASTERN COAST. Province Wellesley extends from the state of Queda, or Keddah, on the North to the river Krean, or Karian, S.E. of the South point of Penang. In 1851 its population was 64,801, a number five times as great as in 1824 ; and in 1873 it had reached to 160,000, of whom about 450 were Europeans. It resembles Penang in its geologilal structure, granite, over which is found the cellular clay iron-stone, so abundant in these regions, and known by the name of laterite. The settlement produces sugar, rice, and cccoanuts in abundance, and among many other products a great variety of delicious fruits. Its chief im- portance, however, arises from the fact, that the capital of the island is a great emporium for the manufactures of Britain, and for the products of the countries of the Malay Peninsula on the one hand, and of Sumatra on the other. PULO PENANG, or Prince of Wales Island, is about 14 miles long and 9 miles broad, and separated from the Malay coast by a channel from 2 to 5 miles broad. It is intersected by a range of granitic hills, the highest peaks 108 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. of which are Government Hill, to the West of the fort, 2,550 ft. ; West Hill, 2,713 ft. ; and Mount Elvira, near the centre, 2,384 ft. It was ceded by the KingofQuedah to the East India Company, July— August, 1786, for a naval station. It has answered every expectation of its founder, Captaia Li"-ht, and is, like the other straits settlements, entirely free from any impost on shipping.* Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, is justly termed the Eden of the East, and the northern part especially is an immense spice garden. Fruit and vegetables are in great abundance, and in fact all Eastern delicacies, not forgetting the water, which may be considered the best in or out of the straits. The N.W. part of the island is lofty and irregular, but been from a distance, as far as 20 leagues off, it has a regular oblong appearance. The West coast forms a slender bay, with low wooded land reaching to the foot of the inte- rior hills. The southern part of the island is lower. The town is on the East side. The climate is hot, but considered healthy. The exceeding magnificence of its mountain views, the richness and variety of their component parts, and the coolness and transparency of the atmos- phere which this country enjoys, give a freshness and elasticity to the mind never e:5perienced in the sultry plains of India. It is almost inconceivable how nature, in so small a compass, has contrived to crowd such a wonderful diversity of pleasing objects. — Logan. Tanjong Puchat Muka.— The N.W. point is in lat. 5° 28' 40" N., long. * Port Rules, 1872. — The limits of the Port of Penang are as follows : —From an obe- lisk built at Klarwey in a straight line to Bagan Jermal, along the western shores of Province Wellesley, to an obelisk at Bagan Luar. and in a straight line to Penang Bridge, thence along the eastern shores of Prince of Wales Island, to the obelisk at Klarwey, in- cluding the mouth of Prangin Eiver, as far as the second Teetee Papan Bridge. The limits of the South Channel are as follows* — From the North bank of the Penang Eiver to Nos. 8 and 5 red buoys, from thence along the eastern bank of Pulo Terajah to the south-easternmost point of Pulo Rimo, thence in a straight line to No. 9 white buoj'^, then passing close to Nos. 8, 7, 6, 4, and 2 white buoys, and in a straight line ending at the obelisk built at Bagan Luar. Signals in case of fire. — In the daytime, the Commercial Code signal of distress indicated by " NC :" at the same time, when possible, two guns should be fired, at an interval of one minute ; at night time, two rockets fired, and two blue lights burned alternately at an in- terval one one m.nute, and two guns fired as in the daytime. Requiring the assistance of the Police. — In the daytime, the national ensign to be hoisted at the main-masthead ; at night, one gun to be fired, and one blue light burnt. Masters of vessels are prohibited from anchoring abreast of the jetty, or in any place within 250 yards on either side thereof. Vessels remaining upwards of 24 hours are to moor and keep a clear hawse. No sailing vessel is to be unmoored or shifted about without permission from the harbour-master, and on no account after dark, except in case of emergency. PENANG. 109 100° 13' E. It is bokl-to on the westward, and has 4 fathoms close-to. From it, on the eastern side, a shoal bank skirts all the North end of the island for 11 miles to the point on which Geora:e Town stands, the 3 -fathoms edge being from 1 to 2|- miles off shore. At 3J miles East of Muka Point is the Feringi Bock, close in-shore, and at 3J miles farther is Fulo Tikus (or Tee- coos), a rocky islet with some rocks around. Between this islet (on which, is a white obelisk) and the Malay shore is the shoalest part of the channel "which insulates Penang, not having more than 4 fathoms. George Town, or Penang. — The chief place of the island stands on its eastern point, the extremity of which is occupied by Fort Cornwallis. It contained probably nearly 60,000 inhabitants in 1873, of whom a very large propor- tion are Chinese — many of them merchants and shopkeepers. It is situated on a low plain stretching out in a point into the sea, on the side of the island next to the mainland, and its harbour, which is simply the almost landlocked strait between the island and the mainland, is of great extent and unrivalled calmness. It has always a large fleet of vessels of every rig, from the finest British steamer to the Chinese junk. The distance from the fort to the mainland opposite is about 2 miles, and this forms the harbour. The Fort Point is steej)-to, having 9 and 10 fathoms near to it. In the middle of the strait are from 12 to 15 fathoms, and 6 to 7 fathoms on the Malay side. The best berth for anchoring is about a quarter of a mile South of the fort, in 9 or 10 fathoms, or less for small vessels. The tides are more regular here than close to the point, where they cause eddies. It is high water off the fort at 12'*, at full and change, but the flood runs southward till 3 o'clock in the main stream. Springs rise 9 ft., and neaps about "il ft. Channels. — Mr. J. G. Maddock remarks: — "Both the northern and southern channels are safe, the northern shallows being well marked by fishing stakes, numbers of which are in 4 to 5 fathoms water. I have often passed between them, but a stranger having any regard for his copper ought to give them a good offing, as there are many old stakes broken off 2 or 3 ft. under water. The southern entrance is well buoyed, and also marked by beacons ; but unless you have a good commanding breeze from the southward or S.W., which is not often the case except in the first of the rainy season (August and September), and if coming from the southward, I should always prefer the northern channel. I recollect once coming up with the A. J. Kerr, from Singapore. I had a good stiff breeze from the southward and westward, which I made available for the southern entrance. I had got to within half a mile of my anchorage when I was met by a northerly wind. I gave orders to clew up and anchor, and left the two winds to battle the match how they liked ; in the morning I found the northerly wind had gained the day : this is not an uncommon occurrence in the southern channel." The best route to reach the anchorage, as above stated, is by the North 110 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. channel. The southern one is intricate and also dangerous without an inti- mate knowledge, and with a large ship. With westerly winds, steer for the North end of the island, or with the wind from N.E. or northward, make for the mainland to the northward, and approach Pulo Bunting from N.W. by W. or W.N.W. The Bunting (or Boonting) Isles are four in number, with an islet between them, lying about 12 to 15 miles North from Penang. The largest is the northernmost, and is opposite to the peak of Quedah ; and the southernmost is Bidan, or Biddan, which is nearest to the shore, and has only 2 or 2|^ fathoms inside of it. By night these islands may be neared to within depths of 14 or 15 fathoms; by day there is no danger but what may be seen. When past them, steer about S.S.E., with Pulo Bidan bearing about N. by W., keeping about midway between the North part of Penang and the paain to avoid a flat extending off the Malay shore, and also that which encircles the North end of Penang, as before mentioned. The bar, or shoalest part of the channel, will be found when abreast of Pulo Tikus, and is only 24 ft., barely sufficient if there be any swell, which seldom occurs, if the draught be more than 20 ft. The Port Point is 3^ miles to the S.E. of Pulo Tikus, which, as before stated, has some rocks around it ; but having passed it, the water deepens towards the harbour. The N.E. shore of the island forms a slender bay, filled with a muddy shoal, which suddenly drops from 2 to 5 fathoms. The lead is not a sufiioient guide in thick weather, or at night, in passing over the flat between the N.E. point and the Malayan shore, as the depths are nearly the same all across until within 1^ mile of either shore. The shore of the main land is low, and covered with trees, so that it is not so conspicuous as the high land of Penang, which will thus appear the nearest when in mid-channel. From within Pulo Tikus to the fort, stand off again when 5^ or 6 fathoms is reached. By daylight there is no difficulty in thus reaching the harbour, as the rocks of Pulo Tikus are bold-to. In the N.W. monsoon which sets in in August, there may be some difficulty in beating out by this North channel, but at all other times it is preferable for large ships. A good leading mark is to keep the West end of Pulo Jerajah, which lies off the East coast of Penang, clear of, or just open of the point on which Fort Corn- wa)lis is built. This will carry you clear of all danger, the least water being 4J fathoms, mud and sand. Should you not see Pulo Jerajah, owing to hazy weather, the long leading mark is as before mentioned, Pulo Bidan, the southernmost of the Bunting, bearing N. by W. until you get sight of Pulo Jerajah. The South Channel, though intricate, is very serviceable during adverse winds, as it affords a ready outlet in fine weather to the southward for ships drawing under 17 ft. water. Pilots are stationed at Pulo Jerajah. It is bounded on the West side by the Middle or Long Sand, marked by three buoys along its eastern side, which begins about three-quarters of a mile PENANG. Ill South of the Fort Point, and stretches nearly to the North point of Pulo Jerajah. On the East side it is bounded by the northern spit of the Great Kra Flat, or as it was termed the Praya (or Pry) Sand. It is a bank of soft mud, which stretches from the Malay shore for 10 miles, when to the South of Penang. Pulo Jerajah, or Jeraga, is 5 miles S. by W. from Fort Point, and is 734 ft. high. It has a narrow channel of 3 to 5 fathoms between it and Penang. Off the S.E. point of Penang is Pulo Peine, or Ramio, close to the South of which the channel passes. Buoys. — The South Channel is marked by ten buoys, numbered from North to South, each placed red on the western, and white on the eastern edge of the channel, in about 2 fathoms of water. Of these, three painted red mark the eastern edge of the Middle Bank ; and six, painted white, the western edge of the Great Kra Flat; a fourth red buoy lies S.W. of Eomo Island. No. 1, a red buoy, is moored on the North end of the Middle Bank, a mile southward of Fort Cornwallis. No. 2, white, S.S.E. ^ E. 1 J mile from No. 1, marks the eastern side of the channel, which is here quite clear, and nearly three-quarters of a mile in width. At 1 J mile below No. 2 buoy the channel is marked on either side by red buoy No. 3 and white buoy No. 4, which are two-thirds of a mile apart; hereabouts the soundings suddenly decrease from 6 to 2f , 3 and 4 fathoms, the deepest channel being nearer to the white buoy. At about three-quarters of a mile below Nos. 3 and 4, Nos. 5 red and 6 white, three-quarters of a mile apart, mark the opposite sides of the channel. The deepest part of the channel here is towards No. 6, as a spit projects out from the red buoy. No. 7 white buoy, 1 J mile S. by W. ^ W. from No. 6, marks the eastern side of the channel opposite the highest part of Pulo Jerajah. Hence to the southward the channel is broad and deep. No. 8 buoy, white, marks its eastern side, and lies 8. by E. \\ mile from the South end of Pulo Jerajah. No. 9, red, marks the western side of the channel, 2 miles S.W. of Pulo Eemo ; and No. 10, white, marks the eastern side at its South extremity, and lies IJ mile southward of No. 9 red buoy. In leaving Penang Harbour by the South channel, get under weigh about half flood, and steer S. by E. and South to enter the channel between the Middle Sand and the Pry or Praya Sand. When the bar is neared, keep near the eastern edge of the Middle (or Long) Sand, the depth in crossing it is nearly 5 fathoms, between the North end of Pulo Jerajah and Kra Flat. When the North point of Pulo Jerajah bears to the northward, the soundings will decrease to 6 and 7 fathoms, then haul near to that island, and these depths will continue through the channel in steering out to S.W. seaward, past the S.E. point of Penang and Pulo Eemo. The greatest depths are near the East sides of these islands, which are steep-to, but on the East side of the channel the water shoalens suddenly upon the edge of the Kra Flat. After passing Pulo Eemo close on the East side, the course is 112 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. about S.S.W., or S. by W., according to the set of the tide, to proceed throngh the channel fairway between the Kra Flat on the port hand, and the mud bank off the South end of Penang to starboard. The leading mark is to keep the body of Pulo Jerajah on with the East end of Pulo Eemo, if Pulo Jerajah is shutting in with Pulo Eemo, a ship will be on the West side ; and if entirely open with it, she will be on the East side of the channel. The mouth of the River Krian is in about lat. 5° 16' N. This river serves as one of the roads down which the tin is brought from the mines in the interior. The State of Perak,* extends along the coast from Wellesley Province to the State of Salangore, or from 1 to 2 miles southward of the mouth of the Kutong Eiver to the mouth of the Bernam Eiver, a distance of about 100 miles. A portion of this coast line, however, belongs to Great Britain, having been ceded in the year 1826, and the cession again ratified in the year 1874. This includes the Island of Pancore, or Binding, and coast of the mainland at the back of the island, and thence for about 20 miles to the northward. The Bruas and Binding Eivers enter the sea within its bound- aries. The district of Laroot is situated to the northward of this British territory, and is bounded on the North by the Krean Eiver. The physical aspect of the district is thus described by Mr. Birch : — " From the sea-shore to some 20 miles inland, Laroot is a great level ; here it begins to rise in uplands until it reaches a mountain-range rising to an altitude of some 3,000 ft. above the level of the sea. This level or plain is well watered and well suited for the cultivation of sugar, tapioca, tobacco, &c. Eice is the only cereal now cultivated. The whole of the land, comprising a strip of about 50 miles long by 6 miles broad, along the Laroot Eange, is more or less stanniferous, and the supply of tin is inexhaustible. At present (1872) about 4 square miles are occupied for mining purposes, and there are 120 mines open. It is unskilfully worked, and only about 600 tons were exported in 1874. Of the Laroot Eange, Gunong Buboo, or the 'Wild Man,' is said to be the loftiest. It is said to be the most conspicuous landmark to mariners beating up the Straits for the mouth of the Perak Eiver, which is several miles South of this mountain." The population of the State of Perak, which extends eastward as far as the Malayan chain of mountains, was estimated to number 25,000 in 1874, mostly established near the shores of the Perak Eiver, which passes through the country in a direction from North to South at a distance of about 30 miles from the coast. It is from this Eiver Perak or Pera (silver) that the country takes its name. The country is plentiful in fruit-bearing and timber- * Pronounced like " Pera," the terminal k in Malay -words being scarcelj' sounded at all. MALA.Y COAST. 113 producing trees, among the latter class being the teak. India-rubber and gutta-percha trees are also found. In minerals, iron, saltpetre, and gold, ai*e found, besides the tin before mentioned. Pry River enters the sea on the southern side of the point, lying E.S.E. of Peuang, Here it is high water, full and change, at 12\ Springs rise 9 ft., neaps 1^ ft. The Kutong River, in lat. 5° 6' N., is merely a southern outlet to the Eiver Krean, and flows along the South side of the North Mound. The River Laroot, rising in the neighbourhood of Gunong Hijau in the Laroot Eange, falls into the Sea in 4° 44' N., 28 miles to the S. of the Krean River. Mr. Irving says : — *' Compared with other rivers on the coast, it is an inconsiderable stream, as the range of mountains which forms the watershed of the peninsula, at' this place, approaches the coast. The colonial steamer Pluto, drawing only 6 ft. of water, was not able to do more than enter the river ; but the small steamers belonging to the Tunku Man- trie, or headman, are able to get up to the town, a distance of 2 miles from the coast." The town, in 1872, was surrounded with stockaded positions, and Mr. Irving observed that there was an excellent road all the way to the mines in the Laroot Eange, about 10 miles from the town. The coast of Laroot between the Kurow, 20 miles northward of the Laroot Eiver, and the Jurom Mas (or Gold Needle), 12 miles to the southward, is a perfect network of rivers and rivulets, and indented by endless creeks and bays, which afford countless sheltering places for pirates. Most of these creeks and inlets have been explored by the boats of the Thalia and the Midge, when in search for pirates in 1872, under Captain Woolcombe. The Kurow Eiver enters the sea in 5° N., and 10 miles south-eastward of it is the mouth of the Silensing. This latter river is connected with the six outlets to the sea between it and the Jurom Mas Eiver, in lat. 4° 33' N. These outlets are named in order, Besar, Kechil, Larut, Trong, and Jurom Mas. About 1 mile South of the Jurom Mas is the mouth of the small river Hut. Between this and the mouth of the Bruas Eiver, which is situated 4 miles to the south-westward, is the northern boundary of the British Territory. At 16i^ miles S.E. by E. from the S.E. end of Penang is a hill, called the North Mound, which is 5 or 6 miles South of the Krean Eiver, and at 13^ miles further to S.E. by E. is another called the South Mound. Further in- land high mountains are seen, which extend to the southward. The Coast is fronted by an extensive shoal, which commences in the strait insulating Penang, and which. South of that island, is called the Great Kra Plat, the 5-fathoms line being as much as 12 miles from the beach. This extensive mud-bank, the produce of the many rivers, before mentioned, which enter the sea from the adjacent coast, gradually bhoalens to the shore, 1. A. Q 114 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. leaving a wide space, which covers and uncovers with the tide, and continues with varying break for 54 miles, till its outer edge comes close to the land at Pulo Tallong, near the hills known as False Binding, or False Suggur. The outer edge of the bank is steep-to, decreasing suddenly from 13 to 12 fathoms to 2 or 3 fathoms, so that it would be imprudent to stand nearer than that depth, even with the lead kept briskly going, especially in the night. There is some advantage in keeping in with the coast, for by doing so the westerly current usually prevailing in the ofRag will be partly avoided. The winds will also be more favourable, and anchoring easier than in deeper water. BINDING ISLAND, or PULO PANCORE, before mentioned as forming a portion of British Territory, was examined together with the channel on its eastern side by Commander Napier, in H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876. The island is of irregular shape, 5 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 2 miles broad. Off its S.W. end is Little Binding Island, sheltering a bay ; off its N.W. end runs a narrow promontory, 1^ mile long ; and midway be- tween the promontory and Little Dinding Island a narrow island 1^ mile long juts out on its western side. The highest part of the island is 1,318 ft. high, and situated about 2 miles S.E. of the N.W. point. On the North and South extremes are two hills, respectively 748 and 992 ft. high. Two other mountains rise near the centre of the island, and attain a height of more than 1,000 ft. Great Dinding Island is densely covered with jungle. The woods consist of ebony, sandal wood, several varieties of gum, india-rubber, and palm- trees, bamboo, and several native woods, some of which are similar to ma- hogany ; coffee and cotton are also grown here. The whole of the woods are farmed out by the colonial government at an annual rental. The popu- lation in 1876 consisted of about 250 Bataks or Malayan native hill tribes, and 100 Chinese. A Dutch fort formerly existed on the East side of the island. Poultry, eggs, and occasionally pigs, may be procured at most of the native villages at reasonable prices. Fish and fruit are plentiful ; turtle in the season. Fresh water of good quality is plentiful at almost all the villages, but owing to want of proper conduits can only be obtained in small quantities. North Entrance. — The passage between the North side of Pulo Pancore and the main is divided into two channels by the North Bank, which shows breakers in places. This bank is 4 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and from half a mile wide at its southern end, opposite the mouth of Din- ding River, on the mainland, to 1^ mile wide at its North end, near which lies Wedge Rock, 3 ft. above water, N. by E. i E., If mile from North West Islet, which lies 5 cables N. by W. h W. from the North point of Pulo Pan- core, is wooded, 100 ft. high, and difficult to discern until close. A 3-feet rock lies nearly a cable off its West side, otherwise it is steep-to all round. BINDING ISLAND. 115 A smnll islet, 7 ff. liigli, lies iu the channel nearly midway between North West Islet and Pulo Pancore. Between the North Bank and the bank skirting the shore there is a chan- nel, suitable for vessels of not more than 10 ft. draught of water; but the passage is difficult, and should not be attempted without local knowledge. Pass Tanjong Hantu, a projecting point, 11 cables N.E. by N. of Wedge Island, at about 2 cables distant on a S. ^^ E. course, after which steer S.S.E. ^ E. ; this course will lead direct to the centre of Dinding Eiver passage, and in not less than 4 fathoms water. H.M.S. Nassau, drawing 13 feet, passed through the channel at three-quarters flood. The channel westward of North Bank is not recommended for vessels of large draught, for although with care and attention not less than 4 fathoms water will be obtained, the passage is narrow, being only 2 cables wide in the narrowest parts, and the leading marks are not of the best description. The eye, however, is the surest guide. Give a wide berth to North bank, the western limit of which bears North from the N.W. point of Pulo Pancore. To clear this and the outlying 3- fathoms patch 7 cables W.S.W. of Wedge Eock, the North peak of Pulo Pancore should not be brought to bear southward of S.E. ^ S. North West Islet will be sighted ahead on this bearing, and passing it on the starboard hand at half a cable distant, steer E. by S. f S. for Offlying Rock, 2 ft. high, near North Point. Between North-west Point and North Point, which are 3 cables apart, a rocky bank projects 1^ cable to the northward, at the ex- tremity of which is Grasshopper Islet, 120 ft. high and wooded. Pass Off- lying Rock also on the starboard hand, at half a cable distant ; then alter course quickly to starboard, and bring the summit of North West Islet to bear W. by N. f N., and midway between Offlying Rock and North Point. This mark will lead a cable North of Bower Patch, and 1 cable South of a projecting part of North Bank. When Scorpion Point (which forms the eastern entrance point of the large bay indenting the North side of Dinding Island) bears S. W., alter course to starboard, and bring Table Rock, lying near a point, and 22 ft. high, to bear S. by E. i E. ; then steer 6 or 8 cables to pass the latter one, or 1^ cable distant ; and thence, preserving the same distance from the island, to the anchorage off Port Pancore. Charyhdis Rock, a pinnacle having a depth of 2 ft., lies North IJ cable from Scorpion Point. The 2-fathom bank surrounding it extends a quarter of a cable farther North. The ground is foul between Charybdis Rock* and Scorpion Point. Shoal water of 1 to 17 ft. extends a distance of 2^ cables to the N.E. and East of Scorpion Point, and also fills the bay formed to the N.E. of Table Rock. Boiver Patch, having a depth of 15 ft., is nearly circular, about half a mile in diameter, and lies N. by W. J W., 3 cables from Scorpion Point. The 116 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. summit of North-west Islet, in line with North Point, leads on to Bower Patch. The summit open of North Point, and bearing W. by N. | N., leads North of Bower Patch in 4 fathoms least water. If bound to Binding Rivei*, keep North West Islet bearing "W. by N. f N., and when Scorpion Point bears S.W., sheer out a little to the southward, to give the S.E. extreme of North Bank a wider berth, and bring the leading mark on again before the tongue of South Bank is approached. The South Channel lies between the eastern side of the island, which is al- most steep-to, and the bank which extends about a mile off the main. Fairway Rock, 27 ft. high, lies S. by W. J W. Sf miles from the S.E. point of Pulo Pancore ; a sunken rock, having less than 6 ft. water, lies half a cable from its North side, and a depth of 4 fathoms near the West side of the rock. There are 9 to 1 6 fathoms water between the rock and the main- land, and 10 to 23 fathoms between the rock and Pulo Pancore. Pulo Katta, N.E. by E. 3^ miles from Eairway Rock, is a small wooded islet, 114 ft. high, standing on the edge of the bank near Tanjong Katta, and is separated from the mainland by a shoal and rocky passage 3 or 4 cables wide. To reach Port Pancore from the southward, having passed Fairway Roi k and Pulo Katta, steer to bring Table Rock in line with Tanjong Hantu bearing N. by W. \ W. : keep these marks in line, which will lead nearly mid-channel to the anchorage off Port Pancore. If wishing to enter Binding River, steer from the anchorage to pass Table Rock 2 cables distant, and thence midway between East Bank and the island, until the North summit of Pulo Pancore bears S.W. h S. ; then bring the summit of North-west Islet bearing W. by N. | N. open of North Point, and proceed on that course to the entrance of the river. Abreast of Port Pancore there will be found secure anchorage for vessels of large draught, and sufficient space for several vessels to moor. The best berth is with the shore end of the pier bearing W.N.W., distant 3 cables, in 8 fathoms, mud. In this berth the vessel will be distant 3 cables from the edge of East Bank, the shoal which skirts the mainland adjacent. Bathing is unsafe on account of the numerous alligators which swim across the channel. It is high water full and change in Binding Channel at S*" 15" ; springs rise 9 ft., neaps 5 ft. The flood stream in the North entrance sets fairly through the channel. In Binding Channel and South entrance the ebb seta N.N.E., and flood S.S.W., at the rate of 2 to 3 knots at springs. To the S.W. of Pulo Pancore the flood sets S.E., and ebb N.W., and sets through the narrow passage between Pulo Pancore Laut and Pulo Pancore at the rate of 2 to 3J knots at springs. There is anchorage in the bays on the western side of Binding Island, Binding River, perhaps the only river without a bar in Malacca Strait, BINDING EIVER— PEEAH EIVEE. 117 has a deep and clear entrance, which between Mehegan and Motts Points is 8 cables wide. A channel 3 cables wide, and having: 5 to 9 fathoms, extends 3 miles up the river, the farthest point reached by the surveying parties. The water shoals more gradually towards the North shore than to\vards the South, which is rocky. Yellow Cliff, 14 ft. high, and Bed Cliff, 26 ft. high, both on the South side of the river, are conspicuous. On the North shore of Binding Eiver, at the West side of the entrance of Sungie Sumpit (small river) is situated a police station, a conspicuous bungalow standing on a spit, and easily recognised by the palm trees westward of it. On the South shore of Binding Eiver, opposite the police station, is a native village. The flood and ebb tides set at the rate of 3^ knots at springs, and 2 knots at neaps. Birections for approaching it from the Binding Channel are given previously. The southern boundary of the British territory is in the bay 2 miles East of Pulo Katta. The Sambilang Islands are 8 miles South of Binding. They are so called from the Malay word for nine, their number. They are generally high and bluff, covered with trees, and visible 20 miles off. The White Roch, 15 ft. high, is the south-westernmost of the Sambilangs, and is in lat. 4° 0' 10" N., long. 100° 32' 15" E. The Blacli Roch, not very high above the water, is 1 mile North from it. The Sambilangs are quite bold-to, with very deep water, 15 to 46 fathoms, and very irregular bottom, BO that the lead is no guide in approaching them. There is a safe channel inside them. The RIVER PERAH, or Perak,* is an extensive stream, and is much fre- quented by the country vessels trading for tin. Mr. Birch, in one of his last speeches made at Singapore, speaks about this river in these terms: — " The river is a very magnificent one. At least 150 miles from the mouth, it is over 400 ft. wide, and, as the tidal influence extends a very short dis- tance from its mouth, it may be well imagined what rich and fertile lands are to be found along its valley. The greatest resources of this fine district lie in its soil, which is remarkably rich and suitable for the cultivation of tobacco, sugar, or indigo." A vessel entering Perah Eiver should close the North coast, and having passed Pulo Katta, bring the South point of Pulo Pancore, or Great Bin- ding, to bear N.W. by W. \ W., and nearly touching the North point of Little Binding Island. This mark will lead over the bar in 11 ft. at half- tide neaps, and 17 ft. at high water springs, and past the outer clump of * It was at Passir Salah, a town on this river, about 70 miles from its mouth, that Mr, Birch, the British Resident, met his death at the hands of the natives. The murder took place in November, 1875, at a time of great excitement, caused by the struggles of two rival claimants for the throne of Purah, after the death of Sultan Ali. 118 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. fishing-stakes at about three-quarters of a mile on the starboard hand ; the bar is (January, 1876,) situated N.E. by E. from these stakes* Keeping the same marks in line, a second clump of fishing stakes is passed on the starboard hand about a quarter of a mile distant ; then alter course gradually to starboard, and pass between this clump and another large clump bearing E. by S. Passing the latter at a quarter of a mile distant, the vessel should steer along the bank for the point on the North side of the entrance, keeping about a half or three-quarters of a mile off shore, and passing out- side some small fishing-stakes moored close to the bank, until the mouth of the river is reached. Avoid the first point on the port hand, as there is a long spit extending ofi" it, and steer over to the South or left bank of the river, keeping it at a distance of 50 to 70 yards, as there is a slioal in the centre of the river. Between the entrance of the river and Kota Striah, distant 25 miles from the bar, on the route recommended, soundings of 2^ to 5 fathoms will have been obtained. There is anchorage off Kota Striah, in 3 J to 4 fathoms, stiff mud, at 2^ cables from the shore. Durian Sahatang, a town of eighty or ninety houses, the highest point which may be reached by gun-vessels drawing 11 ft., is 43 miles from the entrance. The trade, which is chiefly in tin, is in the hands of the Chinese, and is carried on entirely by junks. Bandar Bahru, the site of the British Residency, is estimated to be 19 miles above Durian Sabatang. Kota-Lumut is the highest point steam launches can reach. Bernam River, 12 miles southward of Perah River, is the boundary be- tween the States of Perah and Salangore. It has been for years the resting place of pirates, but in 1870, after some severe fighting, they were dislodged, and it is hoped that by an occasional visit of one of H.M. gunboats, the practice may be checked for the future. The river extends about 150 miles inland. PULO JARRA lies in the middle of the Strait of Malacca, bearing S. ^ W. 78 miles from Penang, and 26^ miles W. by S. from the Sambilang Islands. It is about 300 ft. high, very small, covered with trees, and may be seen in all directions for 20 or 25 miles. It is very steep-to, the lead affording no • In June, 1876, the Ringdove crossed the bar at high water neaps with the same marks, and had 22 ft. least water. Also H.M.S. Maypie, crossing on the 26th of December, 1876, had 25 ft. least water at one hour before high water ; the outer fishing-stakes bore S. by E. The channel of deepest water is probably very narrow, and it may shift. Navigating- Lieutenant Pownal Aplin, H.M.S. Modeste, 1876, remarks, that vessels of 9 ft. draught may always enter at high water. Ships of greater draught should not attempt it except at springs, unless in cases of urgency. The best channel in 1861 was 1 mile South of Pulo Katta. SALANGOEE. 119 indication of its proximity. The depths around it are from 14 to 48 fathoms, with 25 to 30 fathoms in the channel between it and the Sambilangs ; and from 30 to 40 in the channel between it and the Brothers, 39 miles to the S.S.W. It is best to pass to eastward of it, because the current often sets strong to theN.W. in the middle of the strait, and calms are more prevalent there than nearer the coast. It is in lat. 3"" 58' 20" N., long. lOO'' 8' E. SALANGORE,'^-' the capital of the Malayan State extending from Bernam River tu Langat Eiver, lies within the entrance of a small river at 60 miles fc>.E. trom Pulo Sambilang. The town was founded at the commencement of the last century by a colony of Bugis from Celebes, and was at one time frequented for tin, for which the Dutch had here an establishment and monopoly. The fort on the South side of the entrance to the river is in lat. 3° 19' 50" N. ; there are also some forts on the northern shore. The river is navigable at high water for vessels of some burden, and H.M.S. Rinaldo, draught 15 ft. 4 in., entered here in July, 1871, to punish the natives for a piratical attack which had been made in a junk from Penang, when thirty- four persons were murdered. They found the bar 2 miles in width at high water, and grounded at low water when anchored in front of the town. Captain Bloomfield, who examined the river in 1871 up to where it ceases to be tidal, at 22 miles from its mouth, reports that vessels drawing more than 1 ft. water should not attempt to enter the river until more accurate surveys are made. H.M.S. Pluto ascended the river 13 miles, or to 1 or 2 miles above Quedah. The spring tide was running very strong, with a rise and fall of 15 ft. There is anchorage abreast of the river at 3| to 5 miles off shore, in from 4 to 7 fathoms, with Cape Caran bearing N.W., and Pulo Anza bearing S. by E., or S. by E. J E., about 9 miles distant. It is high water, at full and change, about 5 hours. The False Parcelar Hill, or BuTcit Jerom, is close to the shore, and 7 miles from Salangore. It is sometimes called the Hill of Salangore. In pass- ing it, it scarcely seems higher than a clump of trees. Its sides are covered with cocoa-nut trees, and its summit by a grove of senna trees. Off it lies a line of islets and rocks, running to S.W. by 8. for 3i- miles. They were for- merly called the Botel (or Bottle) Islands. The innermost is Fulo Besar, and the outer one is Pulo Tekolo. At a mile, or further from it, is a rock, on which the Calcutta brig was lost. It bears S.W. ^ S. from it, and should not be approached too nearly ; there are 5 fathoms water close to it. From the outer reef (sometimes also called the Sail Shoal), Pulo Anzas, on * It is prohable that within a few years more trade may be done on the coast of Salan- gore. Under the advice of the British Resident, the Sultan issued a proclamation in March, 1876, declarint'- it illegal for any, save those properly authorized, to levy taxes on merchandize. Hitherto vessels passing np and down the river have paid heavily to different chiefs, who converted the mouty to their own use. 120 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. the opposite side of the channel, bears W. by S. 3 miles. There are two of them standing upon the eastern edge of the shoal which limits the strait to the westward. (They are the Mudancoos, or Mud and Goose, of the old charts.) The bank and the islets are steep-to. The bank extends for 13 miles to N.W. by N. from them, and gradually shoalens from 2 and 3 fa- thoms up to Pulo Colong (or Callam), the North point of which is 10 miles S.E. by E. from the Pulo Anzas. At 80 miles from the Sambilangs, and 30 miles from Salangore, is a pro- jecting point, formed by the islands of Colong or Callam and Lamaut, for- merly called Cape Coran, or Tanjong Aivat, or Mud Point. A shoal bank fronts it for 2^ miles from it, and therefore caution is necessary. This bank of sand and broken shells stretches for 15 miles to N.N.W., and is 6J miles from shore. On its edge and between it and the shore, the depths are 5 and 4 fathoms, and as they decrease the bottom becomes hard. After the Sam- bilangs disappear, the False Parcelar, or Hill of Salangore, will come in sight to the S.E. by E., or rather more eastward. The ship will then be in 10 fathoms, green mud, and should steer along the coast to S.E. in not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When Cape Caran bears East, the beach may be neared with safety, but should have a berth of 2 miles, after which the lead will be a sufficient guide. Pulo Colong, with Pulo Liimaut to the South of it, forms a channel called the Strait of Callam, or Colong, which was formerly used by ships of mode- rate draught in order to avoid the dangers of the North and South Sands. It is still used by the local steamers. To the eastward of Pulo Lumaut two rivers enter the Lumaut Strait. The Callang or Klang is said to be navigable for vessels of light draught, 15 or 20 miles, as far as Damar, and for boats by poling as far as the neighbourhood of the tin mines. Langat River enters the strait at about 6 miles to the southward. To the northward of Par- celar Hill, "in 2° 50' N., the river bifurcates, near Langat, the residence of the Sultan and of the British Resident ; and a second mouth is formed on the coast S.W. of Parcelar Hill, and named the Jugru River. Mr. Braddell was on this river in 1874, and says that following the river from bight to bif^ht they found 3 and 4 fathoms wherever they went. Mr. Irving, speak- ing of the district says : — " It is a magnificent country, with a fine soil and great mineralogical resources. It is watered and opened up by fine naviga- ble rivers, which run up within easy distance of the richest tin districts, situated in the watersheds of the Salangore, Klang, and Langat Rivers. It only wants security for life and property, and a few easily constructed roads, to make it burst out into exuberant life."* * For further particulars, see a Paper in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, yol. xlvi, 1876, by W. Barrington D' Almeida, on " The Geography of Perah and Salan- gore." THE STRAIT OF COLONG-. 121 The Strait of Colong, or Callam, is about 15 miles in length between the islands, and has sufficient depth for moderate ships. It is not much used now, the less so, as it is said that pirates have been found lurking in its creeks. Mr. Logan says : — The strait is like a large river or canal. The islands between which it lies are merely flats, and formed of black mud, covered with mangrove thickets. In steaming through it you see nothing but a wall of thick mangroves on either side. Towards the northern extremity of the thickets one place of considerable extent was quite naked, and covered with flying foxes, which have settled here for many years. The strait is (or was) used by the local steamers in passing between Singapore, Malacca, and Penang. The following are the old directions for those who would wish to follow it:— To run in for Salangore and the Straits of Colong, after you have rounded the Sambilangs, steer away to the eastward E.S.E. or E. by S., and rise the low land, coming no nearer than 8 or 9 fathoms, but do not rise the beach from the deck. As you lose sight of the Sambilangs, you may see the hill of Salangore, or False Parcelar ; steer in for it, keeping the above depth, you "will soon after make the true hill, which appears like a grove of trees ; when you come nearer you cannot mistake it, as it is the only hill near the water side. In observing these directions, you will not meet with the shoal of broken shells that lies to the N.W. of Salangore, and those which follow will enable you better to avoid it. When you can just discern Salangore Hill from the deck, bearing S.E. by E. or S.E. by E. ^ E., you will have 10 or 11 fathoms, green oaze, with small broken oyster-shells, at 5 or 6 miles from the nearest shore. The course along shore is about S.S.E. 14 or 15 miles. The soundings on the shoal are from 6 to 3 J, 5, 4, and 6|^ fathoms, with overfalls of 1, 2, and 3 fathoms at a cast : as you deepen you will have soft ground, and the contrary as you are shoaling. "When you have sailed the above mentioned distance, allow- ing for the tides, Parcelar true Hill will be seen from the deck bearing S.S.E. ^ E., distance from the nearest shore 7 or 8 miles, in 14 or 15 fathoms, soft ground. When you see the False HiU bearing S.E. by E. or S.E. by E. \ E. from the deck, steer ofi" shore to the southward, until you lose sight of the white sandy beach from the tafi'arel ; then steer to the S.E. along shore, taking care not to raise the white beach, and that will carry you clear without the shoal, in soundings not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When you have run the above mentioned distance to the S.S.E., you may then with safety raise the beach, or borrow on the shore ; but come not under 8 or 7 fathoms, soft ground, as it shoals very fast from that depth until you are past Tanjong Awat. I. A. R 122 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. But to resume our instructions for sailing into Salangore. After you have seen the low land beyond Tanjong Awat, you may be guided by the lead, giving that point a berth of a mile, or 1^ mile, to avoid the shoal which stretches from it. To run into Salangore Eoad, you keep the hill a little open to the southward, and anchor a little to the northward of it, in 4 or 3^ fathoms, soft mud, as there is a shoal to the southward projecting 1^ mile. Going to the Straits of Colong, steer for Pulo Anzas, and to the eastward of them you will then see the entrance, or North mouth of the straits. The Pulo Anzas are bold-to, but the islands, which are on the eastern side of the channel, are the reverse. Off the southern or outermost island, Pulo Tekolo, lies a dangerous rock, bearing from it S.W. ^ S. a mile distant, and with 5 fathoms close to it. On the S.W. of the channel there is a sand-bank, but on the other side it is mud. "When you are past the above islands, ap- proach nearer the sand-bank than when you leave hard soundings ; on the opposite part stand on at pleasure. A little to the northward of the North entrance of the straits lies a shoal, to avoid which, as well as to keep in the best channel, you are to keep the Middle Botel Island in one with Salangore Hill, observing not to open the hill to the eastward ; another leading mark is to keep Parcelar Hill on the West point about its own breadth. After passing this shoal you may be guided by the lead on this side, keeping in from 5 to 9 fathoms. There is also another shoal in a line of direction from Mud and Goose Islands to the West point, but of no great extent. In working up the first reach there is no danger, having good water from side to side, which at the upper end of the reach is very deep, with irregular soundings from 12 to 22 fathoms. The opening that is on the port hand at the bottom of this reach is the Eiver Colong or Klang ; opposite to which is Deep-water Point, the South point on the starboard hand, of the first reach. The second is Bar Peach, which is clear while abreast of a creek on the port side, opposite to which is the shoalest part of the bar ; before you come up to this creek, you meet with another, which it is necessary to avoid, as there is an indraught. It will be best to anchor about a cable's length, in 6 fathoms, before you cross the bar, as it shifts very much, and of course it is requisite to sound. On our sounding we found 3 fathoms at low water the greatest depth, which is a little more than a third over from the S.E. side : you will carry 3 fathoms about twice the ship's length after being over. A good leading mark is some low land just open with the first point ; you may stand till it is two sails' breadths open, and close it on the other shore ; but the best and safest mark for crossing the bar is to bring Deep-water Point to bear N.E. J E. ; you may also be guided by the lead, which cannot be done on the opposite side, being a bank steep to that extends along and across PAECELAR HILL— THE NORTH SANDS. 123 about one-third over to the western point of the Third Eeach, and from thence up to the northern extremity of a creek, in that reach, your soundings are from 3 to 9 or 10 fathoms. The bar is narrow, and begins at the entrance of the first creek, on the S.E. shore, having the least water about half a cable's length to the S.W. ; you then deepen it from 3 to 5 fathoms gradually, and will be abreast of the second creek.* From this you carry not less than 5^ fathoms, about a large cable's length from the port shore. Keep nearly that distance till you pass Point Anna Grabs (so called from a small ship wrecked here), as it is shoal on the starboard side, hard ground, with overfaUs. Indeed, you must avoid for the same reason, the starboard shore, until you are beyond the second opening to the sea. The tide flows about 9 ft. in the springs. PARCELAR HILL, or Bukit Jugru, a great leading mark, stands in lat. 2° 50' N., long. lOr 26' 10' E., 26i miles E. 7° S. from the lighthouse on the One-fathom Bank, and 10 miles eastward from the southern entrance of the Colong Strait. It is 890 ft. high, of oblong form, sloping at each end when viewed from the westward, with the summit a little to the westward of its centre ; but of a regular pyramidal form when seen from the southward or S.S.E., with very gentle declivities in each direction. It is darker in appear- ance than the neighbouring hills. In front of it, to the S.W., is the Jugru mouth of the Langat River, before mentioned. The NORTH SANDS, which lie ofi" the Malay coast between Salangore and Parcelar Hill, are extensive and dangerous. Their north-western edge is steep, and drops from 5 fathoms to 15 or 30 fathoms in 3 or 4 miles. They have been surveyed by Captain Ross, and his chart shows them as several parallel ridges of sand, trending fromN.W. and N.N.W. to S.E. and S.S.E., with deeper water, from 8 to 14 fathoms, between them. The north-western edge of their most dangerous part lies 21J miles W.S.W. from Salangore. These patches have from 4 to 18 ft. water, with 7 to 10 fathoms on either side. They extend south-eastward for 18 miles, leaving a channel, 3 miles in width, between their extremity and the shoal which extends from Pulo Colong, and which has from 5 to 14 fathoms of water. The chart is the best guide for their position and character, and the various patches need not be enumerated, as it is difiicult or impossible to give clearing marks for them. * After you pass the bar. Captain Elmore advises to " steer direct for the South point of the Sea Reach, until the North point of that reach bears West by North, to avoid the wreck of a large Portuguese ship, which bears West from that point, and lies on the eastern shore, between Anna Grab Point and the bar ; when these bearings are on, and you are 2 cables' lengths off shore, it is best to keep the eastern shore on board, to prevent the flood tide from horsing you through the opening to seaward (which I call Sea Keach), where there is no passage, being entirely choked with sand banks, dry at half ebb." 124 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. The Blenheim Shoal is one of the most dangerous of these shoals, and lies on their western edge. It nearly occasioned the wreck of H.M.S. Blenheim, when it was first discovered. It bears from One-fathom Bank light N. 15° W. 11 miles, and from Parcelar Hill W. 23° N. 31|^ miles ; Salangore Hill bears from it N. 56° E. ; and another hill to the S.E. of it N. 66° E., lat. 3° 3' N., long. 100° 56' 15" E. It has only 6 ft. least water, and there are several dangerous patches to the E.ist and N.E. from it. It is cleared so long as Parcelar Hill does not bear northward of E.S.E. It is high water at the N.W. head of the North Sands, on full and change, at 6*" 30". Springs rise 12 ft., neaps 12i ft. When the Round Arroa (presently described) is seen from the mast-head (being 31 miles off), bearing S.S.W. to S.S.W. J W., you are on the N.W. edge of these sands, and will pass over spits of 8 and 10 fathoms. As these spits, which form the N.W. part of the North Sands, have 9 to 12 fathoms on their outer edges, it is advisable, when bound to the southward in con- trary winds, to keep near the western edges of the sands in working, making short tacks to the westward, and standing in to 10 or 11 fathoms, in a large ship, or to 8 and 9 fathoms in a small one. By this means moderate depths will be found for anchoring during the ebb, with the tides more regular and more favourable than further out in deep water. Eor here, during S.E. winds, a current is often found to set W.N.W. and westward when tides are prevailing along the edge of the sands. The strength of the ebb generally sets between N.W. and N.W. by N. 2^ miles an hour, the flood in the oppo- site direction, about S.E. ^ S., standing a little on the western edges of the sands, or running nearly parallel with them, but it is not so strong as the ebb. The ONE-FATHOM BANK, which forms the S.W. part of the North Sands, and is also on the North side of the channel between the North and South Sands, was considered as the most dangerous shoal of the vicinity. According to Lieut. Ward's survey, it is about IJ mile N.N.E. to S.S.W., and 1 mile broad E.N.E. and W.S.W. It has 6 ft. least water. By keeping Parcelar Hill E. % S., the North end will be cleared, andE. \ S. the southern edge will be passed safely. The Lighthouse, on screw iron piles, is painted in stripes of red and slate- colour. It is placed on the centre of the bank, in 15 ft. water, half a mile S. by E. of the position occupied by the lightvessel previous to May, 1874, when a revolving bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every minute, was first exhibited from the lighthouse. It is shown at 61 ft. above the sea level, and visible 13 miles off. Its position is in lat. 2° 52' 8" N., long. 100° 59' 2" E. A red huoy marks the North end of the bank. It lies in 14 ft. water, at 1^ mile N.W. from the lighthouse. THE AEEOA ISLANDS. 125 There is a safe channel between the One-Fathom Bank and the Blenheim Shoal, but there is a small 21 -feet bank midway between them, with 7 to 16 fathoms around it. It lies 6^ miles N. by W. I W. from One-Fathom Bank lighthouse ; and a second bank of similar depths lies 2 miles S.E. of it, and 4 miles N. ^ E. of the lighthouse. Parcelar Hill bearing E. by S. i S., nearly, is the best course to pass between these banks and the One Fathom Bank. This channel has not been used by large ships, as the tides run in strong eddies over the sands during spring tides. A better course is to steer so as to pass southward of the lighthouse. The ARROA ISLANDS form the western side of the main channel of the Strait of Malacca past the North Sands. They are a group of small islets and rocks on an extensive shoal which lies in the middle of the strait. The northernmost of the cluster is the JV^orth Hock, in lat. 2° 55' 20" N., long. 100° 36' 5" E. It is of considerable height above the water, with regular soundings very near the rocks that front it of 8 and 9 fathoms mud. East Rock, or Batu Ifandi, is a flat black rock, very little above the surface of the sea. It has deep water close on its eastern side. It lies somewhat oflf the mud bank, as it has a deep channel of 17 fathoms three-quarters of a mile wide to the West of it, between it and a line of sunken rocks, covered at half flood, on which the sea breaks at times. The Htffh Rock, or JBafu Balia, lies 2 miles West from the sunken reef just mentioned. It is surrounded by other rocks, and there are 9 fathoms in the space between, with 7 to ] fathoms in the channel West of it. Pulo Jummur, the Great or Long Arroa, is the largest of the group. It consists of two islands nearly joined, is covered with trees, flat, and is nearly 3 miles S.W. by S. from the North rock. It is nearly a mile long, and the shores appear to be lined with rocks, and a re*/ extends to the N.E. from it for about three-quarters of a mile. The Malay fishermen come here for fish and turtle. Boats landing should therefore be on their guard. Water can be got in a cove with a good sandy beach, on the East side of the South isle. Several springs of good water fall into the deep valley. The Western Arroa is a group of islets and rocks lying about a mile to the westward of the Lono- Arroa, and on the same rocky bank. The Round Arroa, or Pulo Tukong Simbang, the chief mark for the channel to the eastward, is very small, high, round, and has a tuft of trees on each side of it. It may be seen 1 8 miles ofi". It has several rocky islets near it two of which are visible 12 miles oS' ; one of these lies to the northward the other to the southward, with straggling rocks around. The South Rock, or Pulo Tukong, the southernmost islet or rock, above water, is IJ mile S.S.W. from the Round Arroa. The Arroa Islands should not be approached by night, as there is now no necessity for it, since the light on the opposite side of the channel is 126 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. established. The currents and ebb tides set very strongly here, and might horse you among them. Should a vessel be working near them against a heavy N. W. swell, there is shelter from N.W. or westerly winds by anchor- ing under the Long Arroa, guarding against the reef which projects a mile to E.N.E. from its North end. In sailing down the Malacca Strait from the northward, and having got in mid-channel between Pulo Jarra and the South Sambilang, keeping to the eastward to guard against the easterly tendency of the current, steer about S.S.E. or S. 20° E. to keep well to N.E. of the Arroas, but not too far on the North Sands. Excepting a shingly spot of 13 fathoms in lat. 3° 20' N., bearing South from the Sambilangs, the soundings are tolerably regular on this track generally between 31 and 40 fathoms in the direct line. Should the winds hang to the eastward or E.S.E., keep in with the Malay coast in. from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 8 or 10 leagues past the Sambilangs; then steer more southerly to get soundings of 16 to 18 fathoms on the N.W. face of the North Sands, which may be rounded close, provided you do not come into less than 14 or 16 fathoms, and then either the Arroa Islands or the light- vessel, or Parcelar Hill, will come in view, and will be a further guide. The SOUTH SANDS, like those forming the North Sands, are a series of parallel spits which run E.S.E. and W.N.W., or more southerly in the same direction as the Malay coast, and 13 or 14 miles distant from it. The main channel on the North side of them having that breadth, and a depth of from 20 to 40 fathoms (with some exceptions), extends for 60 miles from the One- Fathom Bank Light to Cape Eachado. The South Sands vary in width from 2 to 6 miles. The northernmost dangerous patch, with 16 ft. water, is 102 miles S. by E. ^ E. from the lightvessel, and the south-easternmost is a small patch of hard sand, named on the chart the Pyramid, with 6 ft. least water. From it Cape Eachado appears like an island, bearing E. ^ S., and from 5 to 9 miles further S.S.E. are several patches of 15 to 4 fathoms. These eastern patches are the most dangerous part of the shoal of Malacca, and require all caution. On the North side of the channel is the Bambek Shoal, awash, which is 21 miles from Parcelar Hill, and 14 miles from Cape Eachado. The space between the Sumatran shore and the South Sands is full of shoals and dangers, and should never be attempted. It is high water at full and change at the One-Fathom Bank at 6 o'clock. Springs rise 15 ft., and neaps 12 ft. The tide runs strongly at springs, and then there are eddies on the spit which projects from the One-Fathom Bank. Between the sand heads the strength of the ebb runs nearly N.W., but the commencement and end of it run very irregularly. The flood is more regular in its direction, and runs with less velocity. The light is found to be most useful in these strong tide ways, when, if the land THE SOUTH SANDS. 127 be not visible, the navigation would be as formerly, very embarrass- ing.* The CHANNEL between the North and South Sands, which has been known by the name of the East and West Channel, — a term probably derived from the fact that the leading marks through it lay East and West of each other. It is about 10 miles wide between the northernmost danger of the South Sands and the lighthouse; and there is a 21 -feet patch at 7^ miles S.W. by W. from the lighthouse, which requires caution. In passing through this East and West Channel, having passed the Eound Arroa and brought it to bear W.S.W., there is no danger from the North Sands, so long as it can be seeii from the deck. Then steer an easterly course away from it bearing W. J S. When the Eound Arroa sinks out of sight, the lighthouse will come in view, as will also Parcelar Hill, bearing about East. Bring the latter to bear about E. \ N., and you will pass safely to the South of the One-Fathom Bank. A course with Parcelar Hill bearing E. | S. will clear the bank. Having passed this, the channel within the South Sands is open to the south-eastward. Parcelar Hill may at times be obscured by clouds, when the low land at the entrance of the Strait of Colong may be seen. If this piece of low land be kept N.E. by E. J E., or its East end be brought to E.N.E., you will clear the banks in coming from the eastward. This low land comes in sight when abreast of the One-Fathom Bank, and from aloft the tops of the trees may be seen as far as Parcelar Hill. * Several wrecks having taken place on the South Sands, the following extracts from remarks by Mr. G. J. Maddock (pilot) will prove useful ; — "I will now endeavour to give an account of the chief cause of ships being lost on the South Sands. First, with respect to the loss of the John Curry, Captain Tucker, in January, 1854. From the wreck, Par- celar Hill bore N.E. by N. ; when conversing with Captain Tucker, and informing him that the current and tide out of Calam Strait had been the cause of the loss of his ship, he acknowledged that such must have been the case from the set which he noticed after the ship had struck. About two months afterwards, a large Dutch Indiaman, the Menado, got on shore under similar circumstances in the night, and, strange to say, within a cable's length of the spot where the John Curry was lost. I also met the captain of the Menado in Singapore, and he acknowledged that my version of his loss was correct, as he could not account for it in any other way. Some time afterwards, strange to relate, one of H.M. ships, the Andromeda, came to grief in the same locality. In passing up and down the straits some time before, I noticed this set of the tide, or perhaps rather an under current, and always kept correct bearings of the Parcelar, and on a dirty night or when dark, was invariably able to pick out an anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms ; but these observations are nearly useless now, for there is a light on the One-Fathom Bank (North Sands), and if the Government place a second light on the South Sand Head, the principal dangers can be easily avoided. There are nights, however, when all these advantages will be found use- less — at short intervals during the north-westers and Sumatras." 128 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. The Malay Coast about Parcelar Hill forms a slight bay, instead of a con- vexity, as was shown on the old charts, an error which led to some disaster. This bay, at the head of which the southern mouth of the Langat Eiver is situated, is filled with a shallow bank, and at about 9 miles southward from the hill is a slight projection named Parcelar Point, not easily distinguished on the low land of Parcelar of the old charts. It continues low and woody to the E.S.E. for 15 miles, to the N.W. limit of a bight, of which Tanjong Kamuning, 7 miles farther on, is the S.E. point. Above the head of this bay is the South Hummock, 973 ft. in height, and further inland are seen some other high lands towering above the trees on the coast. This bay is filled with shoals, and a line of detached shoals lies off its mouth. These shoals are formed by the debris brought down by the Eiver Lukut, which enters the head of the bay in lat. o° 35' N. A few miles up the river, on its left bank, is the town of Lukut. The Bambek Shoal lies midway between Parcelar Point and Cape Ea- chada, on the line joining their extremities, and 3 miles off the N.W. point of the bay just mentioned. This shoal was much dreaded by the early navi- gators, and several ships were lost on it. It is rocky, and nearly awash in the centre, and has several heads of 2^ to 3 fathoms over a space of 2^ miles E.S.E. and W.N. W., dropping to 7 and 8 fathoms at each end, and having 10, 12, and 15 fathoms close outside it, so that the lead by night does not afford a very safe guide on approaching it. The dangerous Pyramid Shoal, the south-easternmost of the South Sands, is also difficult to avoid by the lead, as the soundings are deep close up to it, the depth of the strait being very irregular throughout its breadth. This danger is not lessened by the streno-th and irregularity of the tides, which set in various directions among the channels between the South Sands. The ground is all oaze, except about the middle of the channel. The shoal which runs north-westward from Tanjong Kamuning is 2° 32' N. above mentioned, has an opening through it abreast of that cape, upwards of a mile and a half in width, and the shoal continues in a direction parallel with the coast as far as Cape Eachada, 8 miles to the south-eastward, and at from a mile to H ^i^^ from it, leaving a channel inside it, having a depth of from 6 to 12 fathoms. A small island, Arrang-Arrang, lies to the S.E. of Tanjong Kamuning. CAPE RACHADA, or Tanjong Tuan, derived its Portuguese name from its ruo'ged, cleft character. It is 28 miles S.E. by E. from the point abreast the Parcelar Hill, and comes in sight just after passing that point. It is perpendicular toward the sea, and is something like Mount Dilly on the Malabar coast, but not so lofty. It projects to seaward in a long narrow point of land, which forms a deep bay on each side of it, with a small rock or islet near its extremity. When first seen coming from the northward it makes like an island, for the neck CAPE EACHADA. 129 of land which joins it to the main is much lower than the cape itself. There are two wells of fresh water under the cape. The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Eachada, completed in 1863, is a circular white stone tower, 78 ft. in height to the top of the lantern, in lat. 2° 24' 30" N., lon^. 101° 51' 10" E. It shows a brilliant fixed light over half the horizon, or when bearing from S.E. by E. round eastward and northward to N."W. by W. The light is elevated 446 ft., and may be seen 25 miles off. The tides are very strong off Cape Eachada, and pass it in noisy ripplings, especially at springs, the flood to southward, and ebb to northward. This is the narrowest part of the Malacca Strait, the opposite puint of Sumatra, Ujong Bantam being only 21 miles from it. In sailing down this portion of the strait, do not pass within a line joining Parcelar Point and Cape Eachada, nor bring Parcelar Point, the South ex- treme of the land to northward, to the southward of S. 60° E. to keep clear of the shore bank, giving Parcelar Point a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing it. When Cape Eachada or the bight is seen, keep to the eastward of S.E. by E. I E. to keep clear of the Bambek Shoal. Cape Eachada brought to bear E.S.E. is a fair mid-channel bearing throughout, standing off to the southward to E. by S. ^ S. It would be dangerous to exceed these bear- ings when the cape appears as an island. When approached within 10 or 12 miles the low neck comes in view, and the channel then becomes wider, and the boards may be continued further to the southward. Cape Eachada light kept in sight clears Bambek Shoal in the night time. Lingey Eiver. — The coast continues somewhat to the North of East from Cape Eachada for 5 miles, and then turns to E.S.E. for 3 miles more to the mouth of the Lingin or Lingey River, a large stream visited for tin, and tute- nague, the white metal alloy used by the Chinese to imitate silver. This river is the boundary between the native state Sunghy Ujong and the British state of Malacca. Off the point to the South of this river are some small detached rocks, and the whole of the coast to the N. W. is skirted by a shoal bank and straggling rocks. A buoy marks the eastern side of the Battoo Uandi, a small shoal, which lies IJ mile S.W. by S. from the southern en- trance point of the river. E.S.E. of the buoy lies the Batto Tinga Eocks, at half a mile from the shore. At 10 miles from the mouth of the Lingin is the Diana Hock, a large rock always above water, and H mile from the shore, with 15 to 19 fathoms irregular bottom close outside it. Tangong Kling is 22 miles S.E. by E. from Cape Eachada, and may be known by two or three trees on its extremity, more elevated than the others near the sea. The shore hereabout should not be made too free with in the night, as the soundings are deep and irregular, affording but little guide. On the opposite side of the strait is the Quin Shoal, discovered by Admiral 130 THE 8TEAIT OF MALACCA. Quin, in H.M.S. Raleigh. It has 3^ to 4 fathoms on it, and is about 1| mile long from N.N.W. to S.S.E. It bears from Cape Eachada S. | E. 17J miles. Mount Ophir peak bore from it E.N.E., the North end of Pulo Eoupat, TJjong Bantam, on the Sumatra side, West, and the South end of Pulo Eoupat S.S.W. f W. MALACCA (or Malaka), the capital of the British Province to which it gives its name, stands on both sides of a small stream, at 27 miles from Cape Eachada, and 5 miles from Tanjong Kling. Malacca was occupied by the Portuguese in 1511, and in 1641 was taken from them by the Dutch, who surrendered it to the British in 1795. It was occupied by us till 1818, when it was restored to the Netherlands Govern- ment, by whom it was again surrendered to us in exchange for Bencoolen in 1825. In 1826 it was incorporated with Singapore, The State of Malacca extends from the Eiver Lingey, on the N.W., to theCassang, on the S.E., having a coast line of about 40 miles in length, with a mean breadth of 25 miles, which includes the interior territory of Nanning or Naning, so that it has an area of about 1,000 square miles. In 1865 the state had a total population of 71,600, chiefly Malays. At the census in 1871 the Malays numbered 57,474, the Chinese 30,456. The trade has been considerably reduced since Singapore has risen into pre-eminence, but tin and gold are still sent to that emporium in large quantities. In 1871, imports were valued at £503,326, and exports at £526,428. It has no direct trade with the United Kingdom. In 1875, 651 vessels, of 101,476 tons, en- tered the port. Malacca derives its name, according to Malay history, from the Malacca tree {Phyllanthus Emhlica), and was founded in the thirteenth century. The town of Malacca is divided by a small river into two parts, connected by bridges, one of which was given by a munificent native merchant. On the left or southern bank rises the verdant hill of St. Paul, surrounded by vestiges of the ancient Portuguese fort. Around its base lie the barracks, lines, and most of the houses of the military ; the stadthouse, courthouse, gaol, church, civil and military hospitals, the site of the old inquisition, con- vent, the police-office, school, post-ofiice, and the master-attendant's office. On its summit stand the ruins of the ancient church of Our Lady del Monte, erected by Albuquerque, the Portuguese conqueror of Malacca, and the scene of the labours and supposed miracles of that apostle of the East, St. Francis Xavier ; also the lighthouse and flagstafi". A little to the South rises the hill of St. John's, and in the rear that of St. Francis. On these eminences are still the remains of batteries erected by the Portuguese and Dutch, command- ing the eastern and southern entrances to the town. Smaller knolls inter- vene, covered with the extensive cemeteries of the Chinese. The view of Malacca from the roads is extremely picturesque. It has the appearance of being situated in the bend of a crescent or bay ; the southern MALACCA. irU horn of which is foraied by a chain of beautiful islets, called by the Portu- guese the Aguadas, or Water Isles, stretching out seawards from the coast. On the South side, the shore trends to the West, terminating in an elevated and well wooded point called Tanjong Kling. A few other islets stud the shore. The first objects that strike the eye are a cluster of trees crowning the summit of St. Francis, the Star fort on St. John's to the South, the lighthouse and ruinous church on St. Paul's, and the white edifices that skirt its base, stretching along the sea shore, and gradually lost in the thick groves of cocoa-nut trees that cover the dwellings of the Portuguese, Chinese, and Malays, in the suburbs of Bander Ilir, and Ujong Passir. In the back ground of this pleasing view rise the hills of Bukit Bertam, Bruang, Pan- chur, &c. To the ISlorth, in the distance frown the mountains of Rumbawe and Srimenanti, and far away to the East, the triple peak of Ophir, cele- brated for its gold, shoots into the sky with softened outline. — {Lieut. T. J. Newhold, vol. i., pp. 109—111.) The Lighthouse is a turret on St. Paul's Hill, as above stated, and is in lat. 2° ir 15" N., long, 102° 15' 30" E. It shows a bright fixed light, ele- vated 146 ft., seen 1 2 miles off. When seen to the northward of N. by W. f W. it will lead clear of the Water Islands. A red light is also shown on the pier-head at Malacca, visible 6 miles off in clear weather. The roadstead of Malacca is perfectly safe. It is neither visited by the hurricanes of higher latitudes, nor within the influence of the monsoons ; as was said in the sixteenth c6ntury, " it is the beginning of one monsoon and the end of another. The Road is limited to the North by Fisher Island, a small islet known formerly as Pea or Woody Island, surrounded by a shoal and foul ground, which joins with the shore. This is nearly 3 miles westward from the entrance of the river. It ought not to be approached within 9 or 10 fathoms, which is near to the edge of the shoal. With the extremes of the island bearing from N. by W. to N.N.W. and the body of it N. by W. ^ W. half a mile distant, there is a small circular shoal, having only 18 ft. on it at low water. Near to the city is Pulo Java, or Eed Island, on the edge of the shoal water. To the S.E. of this is Pulo Panjang, a rocky reef or flat, pro- jecting 1^ mile from the shore, and extending along it to Pulo Java. The church and flagstatf on the hill bear N. ^ E. from the West end of Panjang Eeef U mile distant, and from its East end N.N.W. i W. 3^ miles distant. There is a depth of 18 or 19 fathoms within 2 cables' lengths of its southern edge, similar to that in the ofiing, therefore the lead is no guide to clear it. From 20 fathoms in the offing the depths decrease regularly over a bottom of soft mud towards the road, where the best anchorage is under 10 fathoms, with the church on the hill N.E. by E., Fisher Island N.W. ^ W., and the tuft of trees East, the town I5 or 2 miles distant. When the depth exceeds 132 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. 10 fathoms, the bottom is generally a stiff tenaceous clay, which holds the anchors very firmly ; under that depth it is generally of soft mud. There is no danger going into Malacca Road ; if you are in the offing, in 20 or 23 fathoms, you shoal en your water gradually to 7 fathoms, as you ran in for the road. A large ship should not go into less than 7^ fathoms ; for it shoalens suddenly from 7 to 5 and 4 fathoms. And they should be still more careful not to go too far to the southward, or to the S.E. part of the bay, for there the ground is foul and rocky, and shoalens suddenly from 8 to 3 fathoms. Off Fisher's Island there is no danger; and it is found that a ship, upon occasion, might go within half a mile of it, in 16 fathoms water, or have 10 fathoms within a quarter of a mile, and 20 fathoms within 1 mile of it. You may anchor in Malacca Road from 13 to 7^ fathoms, oazy ground, Malacca church on the N.W. part of Mount Moar, E. 27° 30' N. ; the S.W. part of Fisher's Island "W. 36° 15' N. ; and the outermost of the Four Brothers, or Water Islands, E. 50° 20' S. ; distance from Malacca 1^ mile. The flagstaff bearing N.E. or N.E. by E. ; Fisher's Island N.W. by W. ; and the outermost Water Island S.E. J S. ; you have 8 fathoms. The flag- staff N.E. i N., and Fisher's Island N.W. by W., you are iu 10 fathoms. The flagstaff N.E., and Fisher's Island N.N.W. ^ W., you have 14 fathoms, all good anchoring ground. Ships should not anchor on the East side of the road, near Red Island, for the bottom is foul and rocky, the depth suddenly decreasing from 8 to 3 fa- thoms, on the North end of Panjang Reef. During the period of the S.W. monsoon, sudden hard squalls frequently blow into the road from the Sumatra side in the night, accompanied with much thunder, lightning, and rain. It is high water full and change at 7^ hours ; springs rise 11 ft., neaps 8J ft. The rate is about 2 knots. The ebb and flood tides continue to run for 2 hours after high and low water by the shore, and boats cannot enter the river after half ebb. The proceed into the river soon after quarter flood, steering for the church on the hill, keeping it rather on the starboard bow ; and when the bar is approached, the channel may be discovered by the stakes in the entrance. Malacca stands on low ground, but within, the country rises into undulat- ing hills, moderately elevated, among which is that called Bukit Barotig, 4 miles inland, in a N.E. direction. Mount Ophir, or Gunong Ledang, may be better distinguished than the rest, as it is much higher, 3,840 ft., and lies 24 miles to E.N.E. The WATER ISLANDS, or Four Brothers, are a cluster of four smaU islands and one larger, lying 6 miles south-eastward from Malacca. The outer ones are small round islands covered with trees, and the innermost, Pulo Bessar, has excellent fresh water on its eastern side, and thus gives its name to the group. This can be procured at all times, but near low water, when the shore reefs are dry. THE WATEE ISLANDS. 133 The outermost island, Pulo Undan, is IJ mile South of the next, Pulo Nanka, and this half a mile South of the third, which has a channel above a mile wide between it and Pulo Bessar, but nearly in mid-channel there is a sunken rock. This channel may be used by ships if pressed, by carefully avoiding this rock. This may be passed in 10 to 12 fathoms water, by keeping close to the middle Brother, or to the South end of Bessar, for the rock is nearly a mile from the S.E. end of the latter, and one-third of a mile from the middle Brother. Coming from the eastward, keep the South end of Bessar N.W. until the southernmost Brother is shut in with the two others. The Rob Roy Bank, so named from a ship which grounded on it during the survey, a very dangerous 6-feet shoal, 3J miles in extent, lies on the Sumatran side of the channel, opposite the "Water Islands and Malacca, from which it is distant 20 miles in a S.W. direction. It is therefore much best to keep in with the Malay shore hereabout, and not to stand off more than 10 or 12 miles, guarding against the uncertain set of the tides. The depth rather increases towards the Eob Eoy Shoal, which is steep on its northern face. The coast south-eastward from the Water Islands is low and clean, covered with trees, and intersected by several rivers, the most noticeable of which is the Sung-ei Mnar, or Kassang, 20 miles from Malacca. It is the S.E. bound- ary of the state. Bahit Moar, or Mora, an isolated hill covered with trees, lies 9 miles to the S.E. of the river, and is just visible from Malacca Eoad. The coast, which slightly recedes, is skirted by an extensive shoal, and there- fore must be avoided. Tmyong Tor, a low level point, is about E.S.E. 33 miles from Malacca, and here the shore bank appears to be much narrower, a moderate depth being found close to the point, ;vhile the edge of the bank N.W. and S.E. of it trends in a straight direction, the land recedes into slender bays on each side. Mount Formosa, or Gunong Batu Pahat, is more distinguishable than Mount Moar. It is the highest summit, 1,480 ft., of a long ridge of undu- lating hills near the shore, which are seen to extend inland to the N.E. Its S.W. slope forms a bluff point, Tanjong Segmting, on the western side of which is the entrance of the Sung-hei Batu Pahat, or Formosa River. A small island, Pulo Sheilo, lies off the pitch of the cape. The strait opposite this part becomes more embarrassed with shoals, long narrow spits trending in a N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are 30 or 40 miles long within the 10-fathoms line. On the Malay side of th& strait the more dangerous are not more than 4 or 5 miles off shore, but on the Sumatran side they reach to 18 and 25 miles off. The Hannah or Formosa Shoal is the most formidable on the northern side. It lies off the foot of Mount Formosa, extending thence 7 or 8 miles, and having only 12 ft. water on its shoalest spots. Its S.E. end is 2^ miles from the point of Mount 134 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. Formosa, and its N.W. end is 5 miles from the adjacent shore. There is a channel between the shoal and the shore, but there are some dangerous spots of 18 ft. in it, one of which is about 2 miles due West of Pulo Sheilo, the islet off the Mount Formosa Cape. The main channel of the strait abreast of the Hannah Shoal is about 10 miles in width ; beyond that distance there are the dangerous patches of the S.W. banks, which have nevertheless deep water channels between the spits. The southern edge of the Hannah Bank and the northern face of the Suma- tran Banks are steep-to, but if the lead is very carefully and briskly used, it will indicate their proximity. A long and narrow bank runs along this fairway channel with depths varying from 5 to 12 fathoms, having depths of from 15 to 25 fathoms on either side. All over the eastern and middle parts of it you have soft clay with 8 to 12 fathoms; towards the East end it be- comes harder and shoals to 5 and 7 fathoms. This bank was formerly known as the Fisang or Fair Channel Bank. The coast south-eastward of Mount Formosa, for an extent of 40 miles, is low and wooded, with nothing remarkable except a small mound near the sea, Batu Balu, about 15 miles from Formosa. It is all fronted by mud banks from 2^ to 6 miles in breadth, the edges of which are very steep. This fea- ture is also found in all other banks of this part of the strait, caused probably by the strong currents, and is on that account a dangerous feature in its navigation. It is especially so near Pulo Pisang. In sailing down the fairway channel from abreast of Mount Formosa at 7 miles distance to Pulo Pisang, the direct course should be S.E. by E. ; the distance is between 9 and 10 leagues. Having doubled Formosa Bank, when the mount bears N E. between 3 and 4 leagues, you will raise this island bearing E.S.E. | S., or S.E. by E., you will then have soundings from 20 to 22 or 23 fathoms, oazy ground. In turning to windward on this course, the Pisang Bank is of the greatest service both for anchoring on during the ebb, and for the purpose of keeping on, either in the night or day, during the squalls, which are generally accompanied with rain ; tor by steering along its verge, on either side, you may run the whole length of the bank without fear or danger, and upon deepening oflP the end of it may steer for mid-channel, between the Carimons and Pulo Cocob. By keeping in 11 or 12 fathoms on either edge, if you deepen your water, you know which side to steer towards ; whereas, by running along the top of the bank, if you deepen, it is uncertain on which side. PULO PISANG or Pesang is a tolerably large and woody island, 200 ft. hifh, and a mile in diameter, which lies at 2 leagues distance from the main, and there is a channel between it and the main, in which there are not less than 4 fathoms water ; on the West side of it lie three small islands, the largest of which sometimes affords good water, and boats may land there commodiously at high water, in a bay on the N.W. part; this island may be PULO PISANG. 135 seen in clear -vreather 9 or 1 leagues off ; then it makes in three small hum- mocks, like boats turned bottom upward. The Lighthouse constructing (1877) on Pulo Pisang is to show a light, visible between S.E. by E. ^ E. through South and West to N.W. i N. It is high water at full and change at Pulo Pisang at 9 o'clock. The flood tide generally sets fairly through the channel from the Water Island to the Carimons at the head of the strait, and the ebb also, in the contrary direc- tion ; the rate about 2 miles at spring tides. Pulo Pisang bears S.E. by E. 65 miles from the Water Islands, and when abreast of the outer island from 1 to 4 miles off, a S.E. by S. course will carry you about the same distance outside the Formosa Bank, if not drifted out of it by the tide. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear about N.E., keep within 3 or at most 4 leagues of the Malay coast, to keep well clear of the middle bank on the Sumatra side, so as not to get to the southward of its N.W. end. If the weather is clear, and Pulo Pisang be discerned, keep it between E. by S. J S. and S.E. by E. ^ E., until Mount Formosa is brought to bear North or N. by W. in working between the North side of the Middle Bank and the Malay coast. In passing the Formosa Bank in the night, if it is found that the ship has got too far to the southward so as to be southward of the Middle Bank keep along the southern side, or you may work against a contrary wind, in the channel between this and the next bank to the south- ward, the breadth of this channel being about 2J miles, with 16 to 19 fa- thoms water. But it should be remembered that these long narrow banks, as they get nearer to the Sumatra side, have less water on them, and there- fore the most prudent course would be to cross the Middle Bank by some of the numerous channels between its shoaler parts, rather than risk being drifted to the southward into less water. This may be done when Pulo Pisang is brought to bear about N.E. by E., when a depth of 5^ to 7 fathoms will be found on the ridge. Pulo Pisang may be brought to bear S.E. by E. ■when standing towards the edge of the bank which skirts the coast be- tween it and Mount Formosa, excepting at about 5 miles to N.W. of that island, where it forms an elbow, and should not be approached too closely. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear N. by W., Pisang may occasionally be brought to bear E. ^ S. or East in standing towards the Middle Bank. The channel is about 10 miles broad ; during the night stand into 10 fathoms on the shore bank, and off to 18 or 20 fathoms. By day, when abreast of Mount Formosa, and Pulo Pisang is visible, bearing E.S.E. or S.E. by E. f E , steer for it ; either of these bearings will carry you in mid-channel. When near to the island, its western side and the two islets may be approached within half a mile, as they are bold close-to, with 13 to 15 fathoms within a cable's length of them. In standing off shore about 10 miles from the island you will be close to, or upon, the S.E. part of the middle bank, where 136 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. there will be 4.^- to 6i fathoms. In working past Pulo Pisang, tack about IJ or 2 miles from it in 14 to 17 fathoms, and do not stand off from it more than 3 leagues. Pulo Cocob (or Cocops) is 12 miles S.E. from Pisang Peak. It is a long flat island close to the Malay coast, between which and the shore is a narrow boat channel. It is covered with trees, those at the N.W. end being man- grove bushes, and more like grass ; and at the S.E. end they are tall, upright grown trees, like those on the adjoining coast. The island is 2 miles in length. At low water it is surrounded by a dry sand-bank, which extends off the N.W. extreme \h mile. Vessels may approach it within three-quarters of a mile. Tanjong Bolus, or Burn, or Peie, the southern extremity of the Malay Peninsula, may also be taken as the western limit of the Strait of Singapore. It is in lat. T 17' 15" N., long. 103° 27' 20" E., and is a low point of land, covered with tall trees, bearing from the South point of Pulo Cocob E.S.E. 5i miles. At low water it is fronted by a dry sand-bank, and shoal water extends 1 mile from the point, which is very steep. Vessels, therefore, should be careful not to approach too close. The CARIMON ISLANDS form the southern side of the strait opposite Tanjong Bolus, and consist of a cluster of one large and several smaller islands and rocks. Little Carimon extends furthest to the North. It is a high island, 2^ miles in length N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 1 mile broad. It rises in two peaks, which are ill defined and difficult to distinguish, covered with thick wood. The North end bears from Tanjong Bolus S.W. ^ W. 9 miles, the breadth of the strait, which is free from dangers (except the flat off Tanjong Bolus, before mentioned). The N.E. side of the Little Carimon having deep water close-to. The Brothers are two small rocky islets 2| miles to the N.W. of the Little Carimon. They have deep water close to them ; but at 400 yards to the W.N.W. of the eastern islet there is a danqerous rock, just awash at low water. South by East of the East Brother, and West of the North point of the Little Carimon, is another islet of singular appearance, called the South Brother ; and S.W. I S. of this is a rock above water, named the White Rock. Great Carimon is a high island, separated from the Little Carimon by a narrow strait, and lying to the S.W. of it near its North end ; it rises to two high peaks, 1,376 and 1,474 ft. high respectively, which are well defined and conspicuous objects, and may be seen 36 miles off. The lowest, or North peak, bearing S.E., clears the danger on the Long Middle Bank, before mentioned. To the westward of the island are several islets and rocks, both above and below the water, but which are entirely out of the track of ships. The description of the Strait of Singapore will be given in a future section. THE COAST OF SUMATRA. 137 We now return to the northern entrance describing the Sumatran coast of the strait. The COAST of SUMATRA, between Achin Head and Diamond Point, was surveyed by order of the East ludia Company, by Commander Fell, I.N., in 1x51-8, and later by the Netherlands Government in the years 1872-4, and the N.E. coast of the island thence southward by Lieut. Jackson, I.N., in 1860. These excellent surveys, combined with the previous observations of Captains Moresby, Rose, and Ward, have given us a very perfect repre- sentation of the shores of this otherwise little known island. This side of Sumatra may be described, generally, as a vast alluvial plain, but very little above the sea level, unbroken by any great bays or inlets ; but formed at the narrowest part of the strait, of low islands. This great level expanse is 600 miles in length, and from 60 to 120 miles in breadth; an area more than half of the extent of Great Britain. It is intersected by numerous rivers, some of considerable magnitude, which, rising in the great mountain chain, lyin^ nearer to its S.W. side, or the few lakes at their base, afford almost the only clear spaie for cultivation and the habitations of the people, which are all derived from one stock — the Malayan, but divided into several families or nations, some of which have made considerable progress in civili- zation, in the arts and agriculture, as well as writing, &c ; others are of a very rude and wild class, those living in the mountainous portion of this vast island. Altogether they are estimated by Mr. Logan, the best writer on the subject, to amount to 898,650 souls. The whole island, except the kingdom of Achin, is nominally under the Dutch Government ; but very little power is, or can, be exercised by the few European or native representatives of that nation. The Sumatra shores of the Strait of Malacca belong to the kingdom of Achin, or Acheen, at the JSorth end ; the Batak nation, next to the south-eastward; then the Siak State, traversed by the finest river of Sumatra, bordering the narrowest and upper part of the strait. Achin, or Acheen, ths northernmost state, is of some interest, as the spot which the earliest English navigators visited in 1602. Its chief feature is the Golden Mount, or Ya Muria, rising 7,546 ft. in height to the S.E. of the capital town, and to be seen 92 miles off. The town in early times rose ra- pidly to eminence and great commerce ; and when Dampier came here in 1688, it had 45,000 or 50,000 inhabitants, a number equal to the whole present population of the state. Its full, subsequent to this, was equally rapid, and the sovereignty is now pa>.^iiig from the native rulers to the Dutch Government, who commenced the war on Achin in 1871. Previous to this, all the island, except Achin, was under Dutch. Government, this I. A. t 138 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. state being protected by the treaty of 1824 between England and Holland, by which treaty English rights in Sumatra were exchanged for Dutch possessions, in Malacca and in the Peninsula of India, with the proviso that Achin should remain unmolested. In 1871, however, when the Dutch G-overnment gave up to us their possessions on the Gruinea Coast of Airica, this part of the treaty was cancelled, and the Achin war began ; the pretext fur the war being the many acts of piracy committed by the Atchinese. Up to October, 1875, the Dutch had lost 5,144 men in this war. Achin is now very un- important, and rice is one of its chief products. A portion of it is known as the Coast of Pedir, tbe produce of which is the areca nut and a little pepper. Bafali, the next nation to the S.E., the country of the Bataks or Battas, has been partially conquered and explored by the Dutch. It is singularly unlike most other parts of the Malayan Archipelago. A considerable por- tion of it consists of a dreary, treeless, and sterile plain. The people are more strange than their country. They have a knowledge of letters, but undoubtedly are cannibals. The Dutch authorities say that those under their sway are readily dissuaded from this dreadful crime. There is very little commerce. Siah, the third division, is but little known. Its great river has been ascended for a considerable distance, and is navigable for vessels of consider- able burden for 90 miles to the town of Siak, and for those of 200 tons for 100 miles, but it is almost closed by a sand bank. The portions of these states unoccupied by man, or lying on the borders of the rivers, is one vast primeval forest, to clear and cultivate which is far beyond the powers or wants of its small and puny population. Its cultivated portion is the chief source of the sago of commerce ; camphor and benzoin are also produced. CoflFee cultivation has largely extended ; besides these, there are other and minor objects of trade. ACHIN HEAD, the N.W. point of Sumatra, and the islands and pas- sages lying off it, have been described in our Indian Ocean Directory. Pulo Brasse Lighthouse, 120 ft. high, on the N.W. point of the island, completed in 1875, is a white tower, with its upper part painted red. From it is shown a revolving light, elevated 525 ft., and visible 32 miles off to the northward and eastward between W. | S. and S.E. ^ E. An auxiliary red light, to indicate the shoals which lie to the N.W. of the lighthouse, is shown between N. by W. ^ W. and W. by S. ^ S. from the same tower, at an ele- vation of 430 ft., visible 8 miles off. Eastward 1^ mile from Palo Brasse lighthouse is a projecting point, which shelters an anchorage in Lembalei Bay, to the southward of it. The best anchorage is in about 9 fathoms off the village of Ujong Poneng, S. by W. nearly half a mile from the extremity of the projecting point. There is also THE COAST OF SUMATRA. 139 anchorage in Rots Bay, a small bay, about a mile wide on the eastern side of Pulo Nancy. It has an islet, forming its South entrance point, in lat. 5° 38' 5" N., long. 95° 11' 25" E. At half a mile South of this islet is a stream of fresh water. Achin Head, the North part of which forms the eastern side of the Surat Passage, is in lat. 5° 34' 10" N., long. 95° 15' E., is steep-to, and has a high cliff land on its North side. At three-quarters of a mile E. by S. from the eastern extreme of the head is Pulo Tuan, a small circular islet, surrounded by dangerous rocks, which also lie between the islet and the head. A mile E.S.E.-ward of Pulo Tuan, is a shallow inlet, which receives the waters of the Maraha River. Achin or Atjeh River entrance, in 5° 35' 35" N., 95° 20' 45" E., bears from it E. by N. J N. 6 miles ; there is no flagstaff, or any conspicuous object, to point out the entrancee of the river. The anchorage is in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bearing N. 20° E. ; Achin Head, S. 69° W. ; the shore between Achin Head and River may be ap- proached to 5 or 6 fathoms. Pulo Btirroo, or 3Ialora, N. 36° E., 6f miles from the entrance of Achin River, is a small rocky islet, with a tree on it. It is 2f miles off shore, with soundings of 13, 9, and 12 fathoms between it and the mainland, from which the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bears N. 5° AV., the bluff' entrance near Point Pedro S. 41° E. In working along this part of the coast, attention ought to be paid to the tides, and be sure not to go out of soundings should the wind be light and un- favourable, as the soundings extend but a short distance outside Pulo Burroo. Three miles to the East of it there is no ground at 275 fathoms. PULO WAY {i.e. Water Island), which forms the N. W. side of the Bengal Passage, is steep-to on all sides ; the nearest part of it is distant from Pulo Burroo 6^ miles. Off the South side there is a rock, situated a short distance from, the shore, on which the sea breaks, and is dry at low water. On its S.E. side there is a deep bay, with 70 fathoms water at its entrance, and 25 fathoms close to the sandy beach at the head of it. Point Pedro, in lat. 5° 89' 10" N., long. 95° 27' E., bears E. 22° N. from Achin Roads, distant nearly 9 miles ; it is low, with a few trees on it, and may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms. It is 1^ miles to the E.N.E. of the bluff formed by the high land, which terminates in a gentle slope. Off this point the bottom is rocky, and the soundings do not extend more than \h or 2 miles from the shore. At a mile W.S.W. of it, and S.E. of Malora Island, is a small river named the ^'«??Ai<^, andS.W. 3 miles Irom this is another small stream entering the sea, and called on the charts Gigchen River. Krang Ryah Bay, in which there is anchorage sheltered from E. and S. winds, lies 6 miles S.E. from Pedro Point. On its eastern side a cliffy coast commences, and off' its eastern entrance point is a small islet, Batu Kapal. At 6 miles eastward of Batu Kapal is Tanjong Batu Putie, a cliffy point bear- 140 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. ing N. by W. from the western slope of the Golden Mountain, Thence the coast takes a general E.S.E. direction to Pedir Point. There is, however, a slij^ht bay between Tanjong Batu Putie and Tanjong Segie, 8i miles E.S.E. -ward from it, on the shores of which are the few small Tillages, Lanteba, Bihu, Powad, Lawang, and Kalore. There are no dangers marked on the charts at more than half a mile off shore hereabout. PEDIR POINT, or BaUi Pedir, is a table land of moderate elevation. Off Pedir Point, with the exception of a few rocks close in, the shore is steep-to, there being 112 fathoms water 1 mile distant from the shore. From this point the coast is cliffy for Zh miles, and runs to the southward, thence it takes a general S.E. by E. direction for 1 6 miles to Endjung Creeh, a few miles up wLich is the village of Saivang. Six creeks, with sand banks off their mouths, are found on the coast between Pedir Point and Endjung Creek. Batu Creelc, the first, lies 4 miles southward of Pedir Point. Bun- gala Creeh, a mile N.E. of which is anchorage in 9 fathoms, lies If mile E.S.E. of Batu Creek. Pedir Creelc is 2^ mile E.S.E.-ward of Batu Creek. The village is not visible from the anchorage, which is abreast this creek in 10 or 12 fathoms. Gichen Creeh is 2\ miles E.S.E. of Pedir Creek. Between this and Burong Creeh, the distance is 1^ mile. Burong may be known by a flag- staff in the centre of the village. The creek is very narrow, and the bar at its entrance very shallow, and only passable at high water. The anchorage is abreast of the village in 15 or 18 fathoms water. From Bui'ong Creek to Ije Labu Creek, which enters the sea at a slight projection of the coast, the distance is 3j miles. Endjung Creek is 3J miles beyond this. Sawang entrance, before mentioned, may be known by a high grove of trees near to it. At E. i S. 7| miles from the entrance of Sawang or Endjung Creek is Merdu Point, low and sandy, with a few small round trees on it. Beradjang Creeh lies 2 miles westward of the point, another creek enters the sea at the point, and TJlim Creeh 2 miles south-eastward of it. Between Merdui Point and Pajah, Point, lat. 5° 14' 30", long. 96° 28' 30", the distance is 131 miles, and midway between Samalangan Creeh enters the sea. Pajah Point may be known by a high grove of trees near its extreme. There is a depth of about 15 fathoms, at a mile off shore, between Merdui and Rajah Points. To the eastward, Pedada Creek is in long. 96° 35' ; Bjimpa Creeh, 96° 39' 45" ; and Passangan Creeh in 96° 48'. Passangan Point is in lat. 5° 18' N., long. 96=51' E., and bears from Oujong Rajah E. J N., distant 23 miles, between which the shore mav be approached to 12 or 14 fathoms, excepting when near to Passangan Point, which is steep-to, having 30 fathoms within half a mile from the beach. Passangan Point is low and sandy, with a few cocoa-nut trees near to its ex- treme, and is in one with Elephant Mountain, bearing S. 42° W. East 4° South from Passangan Point, distant 9^ miles, is Agum-Agum, or Gonia Goma Point, the coast between is slightly concave, and hallway between THE COAST OF SUMATEA. 141 there is a high square grove of trees, near which the Elumpang Dua Creek enters the sea. Ilaneh Creeh enters the sea a mile eastward of Passangan Point. The shore vsx?^ be approached between these points to 8 or 10 fa- thoms, but not when abreast of Agum-Agum, which is low, with a little jungle on it, as two sunken rocks lies off this point, one a mile W.N.W. of the point, and another, the Sumatra Rock, at a mile off shore and 2 miles eastward of the point. Do not shoal the water under 25 fathoms when in the neighbourhood of the Sumatra Eock, if you wish to pass outside of it. From Goma Goma Point the coast takes a general E. by S. ^ S. direction for 12 miles to Telok Samoi, or Teles Amoi Point, S.S.W. from which is a t^ble land of moderate elevation, with a few conspicuous trees on it. The point may be rounded at any convenient distance, as there are soundino-s of 7 and 10 fathoms within 100 yards of the beach. Krang Guku Creek is 4^ miles eastward of Goma Goma Point. At Telok Samoi Point the coast recedes and forms a bay, open to the North and East, with a river flowing into its S. W. corner ; and two villages on its shores, Telok Samoi on its western, and Maraksa on its South side. From Maraksa, just eastward of which a small creek enters the sea, the coast runs in an E.N.E. direction to Diamond Point, and may be ap- proached to 7 or 8 fathoms, except when approaching Diamond Point, there is a shoal of hard slatey clay, with 2 fathoms on it ; it is not more than 20 yards in extent, with 7 and 8 fathoms close round it. From the shoal Diamond Point Dears E. 1° N., distant 5 J miles ; a small gap in the juno-le S. r E. ; and Curtoy Creek (which is situated 8J miles to the westward of Diamond Point, at the AYest extreme of the belt of thick jungle), S. 22° W. Fussier or Passey, now an unimportant place, about 25 miles south-westward of Diamond Point, is frequently mentioned in old Malay annals as beino- a place of some note, at one time rivalling Malacca. It attained its notoriety as an entrepdt for trade carried on between the countries East and West of it. Between Passey Creek and Legabatang Creek, 8J miles eastward of it, are the Rertv or Kertoy, Tyankoy, and Pidada Creeks. DIAMOND POINT, or Jambie Ayre, or Tanjong Goere, forms the eastern extremity of the coast of Pedir, the trees on it being of unequal height, and higher than those of the contiguous land, make the land appear like a low sloping island, when viewed at a considerable distance, although the ground is very little elevated above the sea at high water spring tides. A reef ex- tends from the point about \h mile in a northei-ly direction, having 3 fathoms sand on its outer edge, and shoaling gradually to the point. A ship should come no nearer the latter than 2i miles, nor under 12 fathoms in passing it and the shoal to the westward ; for the water shoals quickly under this depth to the westward of the point. This place is frequented in the fair season by fishermen from the coast of Pedir. Inland to the S.S.W. there is a high. Table Mountain, visible from the offing in clear weather. 142 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. Tides. — Although the tides along the Pedir coast are weak, and only per- ceptible near the shore, there being a current usually setting to the westward in the offing during the S.W. monsoon, yet they begin to run strong at Diamond Point. The flood here sets to the S.E., and the ebb to the N.W., about 2 miles per hour, with arise and fall of 9 or 10 ft. on the springs. At the western part of the coast of Pedir, it is high water at about lOJ hours, on full and change of the moon, and at 12 hours off Diamond Point. The soundings are not very regular in the offing, the depths being from 20 to 35 or 40 fathoms, about 3 miles, to 45 and 60 fathoms at 5 or 6 leagues from the point ; and soundings extend from hence across to Pulo Pera, and from the latter to the Ladda Islands, and to Penang. A little outside of Pulo Pera there are no soundings. The coast to the south-eastward has been surveyed by Lieut. Jackson ; but the directions of Commander Fell are adapted to this later chart. Adie, 20 miles South of Diamond Point, claimed Dutch protection in 1874, and a coal depot has been established here. Between Diamond Point and Adie are several rivers and creeks. On the western side of Diamond Point is DJambu Ayer Creek, and on its eastern side Mentui Creek. In lat. 5° 14' N. is Bekas Creek. Pareh Busuk, in 5° 13' N., is an entrance between two islands. Ringin Creek is in lat. 5° 11' 30" ; Betas Creek in 5° 11' ; Simpang Olim River, in 5° 9' 30", has its entrance marked out by stakes on the sand banks ; the town is about 6 miles from its mouth, and there are some pepper grounds on its banks. Malikan River is in 5° 8' N. Arakun Dur River, in 5° 6' N., has a town, Telok Sintang, 1^ mile from its entrance, and some pepper grounds higher up. In lat. 5° 4' 35" is the mouth of the Djolokh River, a mile below it the Buging River; a mile S.E. of Buging River is Bagan River, and in lat. 5° 2' 45" the mouth of the Bagan Panas River. Edie Besaar River has a fort and flagstaflP on the South side of its entrance, in lat. 4" 58' 40" N., long. 97° 46' 35" E. Some stakes mark the entrance, which lies between sand banks that extend off either point and form a chan- nel, running N.W. and SE., and open to the northward. Prauhilah Point, in lat. 4° 53' 15" N., long. 97° 53' 30" E., bearing from Diamond Point S.E. J E. 11 leagues, has a reef projecting North and N.N.W. from it about 4 miles, near which the soundings are very irregular, although between it and Diamond Point they are regular at a short distance from the shore. There are 4 J fathoms, mud, 2 J miles from Prauhilah Point. On the North side of the point is the entrance into the river, which is almost dry at low water ; but inside of it there are 2 fathoms for several miles up, with a small fishing village at a considerable distance from the entrance. Off this part it is high water, at full and change, at 1 2'\ Raija River, the North entrance point of which is in lat. 4° 44' 38' N., long. 97° 57' E., has an extensive sand bank lying off its entrance. Along the South side of this sand bank the channel into the river carries a depth of LANKSA BAY. 143 2f fathoms, but there is less water outside, as little as 4^ ft. being found at 1 J mile S.E. of the North point. LANKSA BAY, 20 miles S.E. by S. from Prauhilah Point, formed by Ujong Byan to the N.W., and Ujong Kwala Lanksa to the S.E., is about 4 miles wide, containing numerous shoals, with narrow channels leading into the different rivers, which fall into this bay. Near Ujong Kwala Lanksa lies Pido Laga Tojoo, a small island, about a mile in extent, having a channel about 300 yards wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water between it and Ujong Kwala Lanksa. The entrance into Lanksa River bears from it about South, and there is a safe but narrow channel on either side of the island ; the best channel, how- ever, is from theN.E., between the island and Ujong Kwala Lanksa, having 2 J fathoms least water. In the entrance of the river there are two small islands, and the town is said to be at a considerable distance inside, contain- ing a number of inhabitants, who cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. There are only 3 fathoms, mud, about 6 miles distant from the bottom of the bay, and the reefs extend 3i or 4 miles from the nearest land. Five leagues S.E. of Lanksa Bay is Vjo7ig Tannang, or Tamiang, with Ujong Roquit midway be- tween them. The coast in this interval is safe to approach, having from 15 to 20 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, excepting at Pulo Roquit and at Ujong Tamiang, where there are reefs of breakers, which project out a mile. It is high water at full and change here at 12'' 30". Lunkat River, or Kwala Bulon, in lat. 4° H' N., long. 98° 29^' E., lies at the S.E. extremity of a deep bay, formed between it and Ujong Tamiang. The bay is not easily perceived from the offing, as Pulo Tampelu and Pulo Sampatuan, two large islands fronting the bay, appear, unless close in-shore, as part of the mainland. Between these islands there is said to be a safe channel for small vessels, that leads to Kaya-la-pun River. From the mouth of the Lankat a bank extends about 6 miles to the north- ward and N.E., having dry patches on it, with breakers in some places. About 5 miles off the entrance of the river the depth is 3 fathoms, mud, and the tide rises and falls about 2 ft. on the springs ; high water at 3i hours, on full and change. About 4 leagues S.E. of Lankat River there is Lankat- tuah Island, close to Ujong Lankat-tuah, which is safe to approach, and which forms the northern extremity of the concavity of the land, where Dehli River is situated. Balawan and Dehli Rivers are separated at their entrances by a low island, covered with jungle, 2| miles long from East to West, and If mile wide, the eastern extreme of which is in lat. 3^ 47' N., long. 98° 48' E. The importance of these rivers arises from the fact that the Dutch Government have recently established a coaling station on the shore which faces the western end of the island before mentioned. Up to the coal sheds the least depth (8 feet at low water) is found between the outer dark wooden cross and outer 144 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA. \^'hite beacon. The entrance to Balawan River is about 300 yards wide, and much deeper than Dehli River. At 3 miles to the northward of the East extreme of the island which separates Balawan from Dehli River are the outermost of some fishing stakes, whic-h lie 2 miles off the low wooded shore to the westward, and mark the western side of the entrance to the channel, which thence extends to the S.S.W., and is marked on its western side by white basket-topped beacons, and on its eastern side by crosses of dark wood. About 3] miles up the channel branches off to the westward, between the island and the main, half a mile beyond a beacon marking a projecting shoal on the port hand it turns to the southward, a mile up which reach there is anchorage off the coal sheds. Dehli Town is reached by a channel to the S.E., in which there are 1^ and 2 fathoms water. Here the rise and fall of the tide is from 8 to 9 ft., high water at 3 hours on full and change of the moon. South of the entrance to the Balawan River a depth of 3 fathoms is fmnd «,t 4 miles off shore, and for 3 miles eastward of the East point of the island the sand nearly dries. The mouth of the Dehli River is about a quarter of a mile wide, having 4 ft. at high water on some parts, but inside it deepens to 2 fathoms ; about 3 miles from the entrance is the town of Dehli or Labuan. A mile up from the entrance the channel separates into two branches, one leading N.W. towards the coal sheds, and the other leading S.W. towards the town. There is only 3 or 4 ft. water in some parts of the channel, and abreast the town the river is only 40 yards wide, with a fresh stream always descending. From Dehli to Tanjong Mattie, which forms the northern part of Batu Barra Bay, the coast extends about S.E. by E., 55 miles, having regular soundings to 4|- fathoms, within 2 miles of the low sandy beach that lines this part o^ the coast. There are some dangerous shoals off this part of the coast, as shown by the survey of Lieut. Jackson. The Dehli Shoal is the first of these, and lies 1 7 miles East by North from the mouth of the Dehli River, and nearly 12 miles from the nearest shore. Its least water is 27 ft., and it is surrounded by depths of 6 and 7 fathoms; just outside it there are 10 and 13 fathoms. No marks are given to avoid it. The Bungan Banks, or Varela Reef, are still more dangerous. They lie from 6 to 9 miles from the nearest land. Point Bungan Bungan, 25 miles W. by S. from Pulo Yarela, and are two in nurr.l -^r. The outer one is a narrow spit, extending 3^ miles N.W. and S.E., with only 9 fi. least water on some parts. A channel, with 7 to 9 fathoms, nearly 2 miles in width, separates it from the inner bank, which is also narrow, and extends in the same direction for 4 miles. Between it and the coast, the channel, 4 miles wide, has a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms. The Peak of Pulo Varela, PULO VAEELA— BATU BAREA RIVER. 145 bearing E J S., just clears theirnorthern edge ; the same peat, E. by N. ^ N., clears their southern part ; and a high tree on the main land, bearino- S. by E. f E., will lead clear of their eastern face. PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 46' 20' N., long. 99° 29' 15" E., and 22 1 miles off the Sumatran coast, is very high, and may be seen 8 leagues off, although it is not more that a mile in circumference. It is wooded, and clear all round, with very deep water, 24 and 25 fathoms, close-to. A small rock or islet off its N.W. point, and another off the South end. There are some small sandy bays, the largest of which is to the S.E. On the South side ia a small cove, in which at some seasons water may be procured. It runs down the hill slowly into a small well. The island is visited by the Sumatran people for the purpose of catching turtle and preserving their eggs, fish-roes, &c. As these people are sometimes treacherous, boat parties landing for fire-wood, fishing, cr water, should be on their guard. A bank of 6 to 9 fathoms water lies to N.N.W. of Pulo Vai-ela. It is 7 miles in length, its S.E. end being 7 miles from Pulo Yarela. Although the above depths were only found on the survey, it is reported that there are only 2 fathoms over some parts. There is another bank with 8 and 9 fathoms at 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Yarela. Point Mattie is 25 miles due South from Pulo Varela ; off it is the Mattie Shoal, nearly awash in parts, and 9 miles in extent, parallel with the coast, between which is a channel of from 15 to 5 fathoms water, from Ij to 2^ miles wide. It is high water here, at full and change, at 3 hours, rise from 7 to 10 ft. Off Tanjong Mattie, to the northward, tbe depth increases to 12 and 14 fathoms, and shoals suddenly to 5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit which projects about IJ mile from that point, and 6^ miles to the eastward of it, and the same distance to the northward of Batu Barra there is an extensive and dangerous sand-bank, having only IJ fathom, with a safe channel be- tween it and the mainland, 3 miles wide. BATU BARRA RIVER, in lat. 3° 14' N., long. 99° 35' 30" E., and the coast for some miles eastward, is fronted by an extensive mud flat, from 2^to 4 miles oft' shore, having regular soundings, and projecting out to within 5 miles of the South Brother. The river is about 300 yards wide, with regular soundings to the dry banks at its mouth, where a little way inside it divides into two branches, one to the eastward, and the other to the westward. About a mile up the western branch is the town where the chief rajah re- sides. On the banks of the eastern branch stands another town, and there are said to be other towns further up the river. The people on the coast are generally Malays ; those in the interior are Bataks. European vessels discontinued visiting this place for many year-, owing to the perfidious con- duct of the Malays, who formerly cut off several vessels that touched here to 1. A. V 146 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. trade. Nevertheless the people of Batu Barra appear more industrious and better inclined to trade than is usual with the other inhabitants of this coast ; and they carry in their own proas, to Penang and Malacca, the rattans, pepper, or other articles produced here. Goats and poultry are plentiful, at reasonable prices. The BROTHERS, two small islets, lie oflF Batu Barra, at 10^ and 15^ miles respectively, to the N.E. by E. The northernmost, Pulo Pandan, or Quandan, is much lower than Pulo Varela, from which it lies S.S.E. f E. 25i miles distant. It is covered with wood, and surrounded on all sides by a reef to a considerable distance off it. Therefore it should not be made "free with. The southernmost, Pulo Salanama, is larger, and much more bold-to, although there are some rocks stretching from its North end for above half a mile, and another rock or islet lies to the E^st of its South end. The channel between the two islets, 4 miles in width, is perfectly safe with 20 to 30 fathoms water ; and there is also a channel inside Pulo Salanama, about 3 miles in width, but then it should be borne in mind that the Suma- tran coast is here bordered by an extensive shelf, which extends for nearly 5 miles off the point to the southward of the southern Brother. Prom this circumstance, it should not be used except under great necessity, seeing that the course outside it is so much preferable. There are several other spots shown on the charts, which will demonstrate the necessity of caution, should a vessel get too far over to the Sumatran side. The best course is, as before directed, to the eastward of Pulo Jarra. The COAST of Sumatra south-eastward of Batu Barra is laid down on the charts from the surveys of Lieuts. Rose and Moresby, I.N., and has not been so minutely examined as that to the north-westward ; but this is of the less importance, as a great portion of it is unapproachable to shipping, in con- sequence of an extensive mud flat which stretches off it for many miles. Assarhan River, in lat. 3° U'N., long. 99° 52J' E., has a mud flat, ex- tending from its entrance 8 miles to the N.E., upon which the soundings regularly decrease. From hence to Reccan River care is required not to approach too near the coast, as several mud flats extend to a considerable distance, upon the verge of which the water shoals suddenly ; particularly about 5 or 6 leagues to the S.E. of Assarhan River, fronting the bay of Lidang and its contiguous rivers, where the flat extends Zh leagues from the shore at the bottom of that bay. RECCAN, or Rakan River, has at the entrance two islands, Pulo Lalang Besar, in lat. 2° 12' N., long. 100° 36J' E., and Pulo Lalang Kechel ; the former is the largest, from which the other bears S. by E. ^ E., about 2;^ miles ; and there is a shoal channel between them leading into the river. They are low and woody, and not discernible above 10 miles. Having passed between these islands, and being a little to the eastward of them, the entrance to the river bears S.E. f E., and extends in this direction about 30 PULO EOUPAT. 147 miles ; then a small and shoal bank projects to the westward, called Banha ; but the main branch takes a S.E. direction, and is called Tanah Putie River, having a town of the same name at the mouth of this branch, which is here about IJ mile wide, and is said to take its rise from the mountains. It is shoal and dangerous, from the rapidity of the tides ; but several large and populous villages are said to stand on its banks, subject to the Rajah of Siak. The g-reatest breadth of the mouth of Reccan River is about 15 miles, decreasing about 8 or 9 miles up to 4 miles, afterwards 2 miles, and then continuing this breadth till it forms the two branches mentioned above. It is almost dry at low water spring tides, and is rendered exceedingly dan- gerous by their excessive rapidity of 7 miles per hour, producing a bore en the springs, and having a rise and fall of 30 ft. At the mouth of the river it is high water at 6 hours on full and change of the moon ; the rise and fall of tide about 26 ft. ; and here the velocity of the stream is about 5^ miles per hour, but it becomes much greater a few miles up. On the bank of the river the Nautilus found a straggling village, whence the inhabitants came off in great numbers, and entreated to be ad- mitted on board, under pretence of friendship, which was refused excepting to a few of them. They afterwards, without the least provocation, endea- voured to cut off one of the boats, which had got adrift by the rapidity of the tide. The Arroa Isles, described previously, lie oflf the mouth of the river, 40 miles to the northward. From Eeccan River the land on the eastern bank projects to the N.W., forming the headland called Vjong Perhahean, in lat. 2° \&h' N., from which a mud flat extends to the N.W. and N.N.W. about 10 miles, and upon this flat the soundings decrease regularly. When clear to the eastward of this bank, and having Ujong Perbabean bearing S.W., and Parcelar Hill N.E., you enter upon the most dangerous part of this coast, its various sand banks extending from it over to the South Sands, with gaps and narrow channels of mud soundings between them. As the soundings afford no guide in ap- proaching these banks, the depth decreasing suddenly upon them, it is neces- sary for a vessel intending to pass between them to have a boat ahead sound- ing, and a good lookout kept from the fore-yard, for the shoal banks are plainly seen when the sky is clear in the daytime. PULO EOUPAT, the North point of which is called UJong Bantam, is in lat. 2° 8' N., long. 101° 40^' E. It is bold to approach, having 30 fathoms within \\ mile of the shore. The eastern side of this island is bold until the entrance of Brewers Strait is approached, where a mud bank extends out from the shore of Pulo Roupat about 5 or 6 miles between the North point of Pulo Roupat and Ujong Perbabean, the coast forms a deep bight, which is fronted by an extensive sand bank ; this bank, together with those in the 148 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA. offing, mentioned above, render this part of the Sumatra side of the strait very intricate and dangerous. BREWERS STRAIT, or Salat Panjang. — The North entrance of this strait is formed between the mainland of Sumatra and Pulo Bucalisse ; Tanjo-ng Jati, the North end of the latter, being in lat. 1° 36i' N., long. 101° 59' E., a shoal bank, extends 8 miles to the northward from the point. The northern navigable part of this strait is about 5 miles wide, with soundings of 8 to 15 and 20 fathoms, mud ; and 8 miles from the entrance, on the western shore, is the town of Bukit Batu, upon the banks of a very narrow river of the same name. The town is not easily perceived, the houses being scattered among and hid by the trees ; but it may be known by a tree, formed like an umbrella, near the entrance of the river. At Ujo7ig Ballai, a point of Sumatra, 3A- leagues to the S.E. of Bukit Batu Eiver, the strait becomes contracted to 3 or 4 miles in breadth ; and opposite to the point is the entrance to the narrow strait called Salat Padang, affording a safe passage for boats ; it is formed between Pulo Bucalisse and Pulo Pa- dang. From Ujong Ballai, Brewers Strait turns from a S.E. to a South direction, till opposite the mouth of the Siak Eiver. From the entrance of Siak Piver, Brewers Strait extends S.S.E. to the western end of Pulo Eantow, where it contracts to 1 mile in breadth, with regular mud soundings from 8 to 10 fathoms. Between Pulo Eantow and Pulo Padang is formed a channel leading to the sea, called Salat Ringit by the natives, and said to be used only by boats. From the western end of Pulo Eantow the strait takes an easterly direction about 20 miles, with depths from 10 to 15 fathoms, till a small island in mid straits is approached, on each side of which the passage is practicable, taking care to avoid the stream of the island, as a mud flat extends from it to the westward 2^ miles in the middle of the strait. From hence the direction to the strait is to the S.E., and, after passing three small islands on the port hand, the southern entrance opens, oflf which there are a great number of islands. The safest channel out appears to be between Panton Point and Pulo Senappu, having regular but shoal soundings of only 1 fathom at low water in some parts. SIAK RIVER, the entrance of which is in lat. 1° 11^' N., long. 102° 12^' E., on the western side of Brewers Strait, is about three-quarters of a mile wide, having a sandy spit, nearly dry at low water, extending almost across, but leaving a safe, although very narrow channel, close to Ujong Liang, the eastern entrance point ; the river becomes narrow, with deep soundings in- fiide, and is said to have its source in the mountains. The town of Siak stands at 65 miles from the mouth of the river. The Nautilus anchored in 6 fathoms, mud, within a quarter of a mile of the mouth of the Siak Eiver, and found the time of high water at full and change of the moon to be 9 hours ; rise and fall of the tide about 12 ft., and the velocity 2\ xniles per hour. CAMPOU EIVEE. 149 Campou River, in lat. 0° 43' N., long. 103° 0' 30" E., is fronted by an ex- tensive mud flat, almost dry at low water ; and it is little frequented on account of the rapidity of the tides, occasioning a bore at times similar to that of Reccan River, which it resembles in several respects. In approach- ing the southern entrance of Brewers Strait, the tides are greatly influenced by this river, producing a strong eddy round some of the islands, so that, while the tide is running to the southward on one side of an island, it may be often found running to the northward on the other side. The rise and fall of tide near the southern entrance of Brewers Strait is about 15 ft. in some parts, with a velocity of about 3i miles per hour, but much greater when near the entrance of Campou River. The three islands, Pulo Bucalisse, Padang, and Rantow, which form Brewers Strait, and also Pulo Panjore, ought not to be approached but with great caution, at their eastern sides, as they are fronted by an extensive mud flat, with dangerous sand banks, in some places having only 1 J fathom water on them. These form what is usually called the Sumatra Bank, or third bank in the Malacca Strait to the N.W. of the Carimons, which has been before alluded to. The Carimon Islands, which form the head of the Strait of Malacca, have been described on page 136. CHAPTEK lY. THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. This important and remarkable passage, the great portal of the Indian Archi- pelago, has been surveyed by the Dutch officers. Lieutenants Eietveld and Boom, in 1848, and their survey has been improved by the observations of many officers, especially by the late talented Melville Van Carnbee, of the Dutch navy, who drew up an excellent hydrographical description of Java, &c., which has been mainly followed hereafter.* The Strait of Sunda is a singular break in the continuity of that great chain of volcanic mountains which runs from N.W. to S.E. through Sumatra, and is continued eastward through Java. This depression in the mountain chains is not very much below the sea level, for the general maximum depth of the strait is not more than from 30 to 50 fathoms. But this slight de- pression, geologically speaking, has produced a great contrast in the islands * The fine surveys and charts of great portions of the Indian Archipelago, which have teen executed by the Dutch oflELcers attached to the Indian Possessions of that nation, have only heen known and justly appreciated in this country within a few years. The " Com- missie tot Verbetering der Indische Zeekarten " was instituted by the enlightened Governor General of Dutch India, Van der Capellen, in 1821, and since that period the commission has been sedulously and zealously occupied in surveying and collecting information in es Jy ng ^^ THE JAVA COAST. 151 on either side of it. Each has a distinct class of animal and vegetable life. Thus the elephant and tapir of Sumatra have no existence in Java. The wild hog and rhinoceros of Sumatra are of different species to those found in Java. The orang-outang is found in Sumatra, but not in Java. The birds are also quite different ; many important families belong to each, without having them in common. These curious contrasts are also found to exi&t between the islands further to the eastward. These remarkable facts in the distribu- tion of life on the earth have been much discussed by naturalists, especially by M. Temminck and Mr. A. R. Wallace. The strait derives its name from the western portion of Java, which is peopled by the Sunda nation, who speak a diff'erent language, and are less advanced in civilization than the rest of the Javanese. In its widest sense, the Strait of Sunda embraces a very large area. Be- tween the western extremity of Java and the south-western end of Sumatra, the distance is 68 miles, and the bearing N. W. I N. and S.E. f S. ; and from this line to another at its N.E. limits, between St. Nicholas Point on Java, to the opposite side on Sumatra, the distance is 74 miles. The narrowest part of the strait is between Fourth Point on the Java side, and Hog Point in Sumatra, 1 3 miles apart. There are numerous islands in it, which sepa- rate the strait into several channels, of which that along the Java coast is the most used; the lofty and conspicuous island Krakatoa being the great land-mark from the westward, all the headlands being more or less grand in their character. The Dutch nation holds the sovereignty of the shores on either side, and being the surveyors of the strait, have the right to give the names and ortho- graphy to the points and islands, but as their excellent and expressive lan- guage is not so generally used, it will be preferred to give these common names in an English form (adding the Dutch), and the spelling in the ordinarily recognized form for pronunciation. THE JAVA COAST. The south-eastern side of the Strait of Sunda is formed by that portion of Java which gives its name to it, as before mentioned. The state extends eastward to Cheribon, and includes Batavia, the capital, embracing nearly one-third of Java. It is a mountainous country, but containing some rich valleys, and is said to bear the same relation to Java proper that Wales does to England, or the highlands to the lowlands of Scotland. It is more thinly populated, and the people less advanced than in the rest of Java. The volcanic ranges which traverse it, in continuation of that extending 152 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. throughout the length of Java, give it a peculiarly bold character. Many of the peaks visible from sea attain to great elevation. Karang, in the rear of Anjir, is the loftiest, 5,943 ft. ; and a few miles to the South of it is Pulusari, 4,183 ft. ; several others reach to between 2,000 and 3,000 ft. The peak at the southward of Krakatoa Island is 2,623 ft. ; and Bezee, to the North of it, is 2,600 ft. The coast is deeply indented, and has some sheltering bays, but Anjir Eoads is the chief stopping place. Here is a Signal Station, at which an officer will reply to and forward answers to signals to Batavia, &c., the tele- graph system being perfect in the Dutch possessions. Lighthouses are shown on the chief points, and the following directions in connection with the chart will carry a ship through in safety. Java Head, the western extremity of Java, and the S.W. point of the Strait of Sunda, is a noble promontory, a fitting portal to that great entrance to eastern countries. But as it is frequently prudent to make the land to the eastward of the strait in apjjroaching it from the Southern Indian Ocean, the features of the southern coast of Java for a short distance will be briefly described first. Trower Island, or Pulo Tinj'il, is 3^ or 4 miles in length, and its East end is about 35 miles East of the meridian of Java Head. It is surrounded by a reef. On the North and West sides of it there are from 13 to 19 fathoms water, and at the S.E. and South sides, at some distance, no bottom at 50 and 100 fathoms. A mile to the northward of the island there is a rock, on which the native proas have sometimes struck. Everywhere else round the island from 13 to 19 fathoms will be found, and at a short distance to the southward more than 100 fathoms. Klapper Island, or Breakers Island, called by the Malays Ftdo Deli, 8 miles distant from the nearest shore of Java, 13 miles West by South from Trower Island, and about 18 miles E.S.E. from Cape Sangian Sira, the S.W. point of Java. It is 148 ft high, covered with large trees, those along the beach being cocoa-nut, and is surrounded by a reef, which in many places stretches off a mile ; but on the N.W. side there is a good watering place in the S.E. monsoon, as boats can enter a little river through a channel with reefs on both sides, and ships may anchor in 18 to 24 fathoms, clay bottom, 2 miles distant from the island, close to those reefs which partially dry at low water. The depths are from 30 to 40 fathoms at 4 miles off the South shore of the island. Sodon Point, on the South coast of Java, is, as before said, 8 miles North of Klapper Island. The head of Welcome Bay, on the North side of the island, reaches to within 3 or 4 miles of this southern coast. Along the coast to the northward of Klapper and Trower Islands, as far as Cape Sangian Sira, there are rocks which in some places lie 1^ and 2 miles off; and no shelter whatever can be found there from S.W. and S.E. THE COAST OF JAVA. 153 gales. A shoal lies to the eastward of Sodon Point, about H mile from the shore. It bears N. ^ E. from the East point of Klapper Island, and N.W. by W. f W. from the "West point of Trowers Island. When making Java Head in hazy weather, the appearance of the land to the eastward of Cape Sangian Sira, between it and Sodon Point, bears much resemblance to the high land of the West point of Java, with the adjacent hills on Princes Island ; and the low land in such circumstances not being distinguishable at a distance, the position of it is often mistaken for the entrance to Princes Channel. From Java Head the coast runs S. by E. f E. about 4J miles to Palem- bang Point, which is 1 j mile northward of Cape Sangian Sira. CAPE SANGIAN SIRA, the most southern point of this part of Java, is in lat. 6° 52' S., long. 105° 14' E. It is the S. W. point of an irregular mass of mountains, which rise abruptly from the sea to a height of 1,050 and 1,300 ft. on the eastern side, and to 618 and 1,400 ft. on the western side. From this cape, and 1^ mile to the southward, several rocks project, some of which are above water. Captain Newby, in passing close round by Palembang Point, thought he saw a clear but narrow channel inside these terrific pinnacle-shaped rocks, which might be used by keeping the point on board, but it should not be tried. The soundings are very deep close to these rocks, and along the shore as far as Java Head there is no bottom with 100 fathoms ; but as the breakers which line the whole coast seem to indicate that there are rocks under water, it will be advisable to give the shore a berth of at least 2 miles in passing. From Cape Sangian Sira the soundings decrease in the direction of Klap- per Island to 40 and 20 fathoms ; while farther eastward, between this island and Trower Island, they decrease from 20 to 12 fathoms. Palembang Point is the N.W. point of the promontory of which Sangian Sira is the South extreme. They are a mile apart, and the reef of pointed rocks around the land here comes close up. The coast to the northward, for a distance of 4^ miles to Java Head, is formed by the steep-sided mountains before described, which are dark, covered with trees, some of which on the summits are very large. No signs of any inhabitants. Under these dark frowning hills is a belt of green herbage, and then a sandy beach of dazzling whiteness, with several detached steep rocks, some of which would look like a boat under sail. JAVA HEAD.— The West point of Java is in lat. 6° 46' 40" S., long. 105° 12' 22" E. Being frequently the first land made after a long voyage across the Atlantic, and round the Cape of Good Hope, its lofty and majestic character strikes those who approach near it with greater force than even its natural features would command. Captain Newby was much struck with its grandeur. He says : — It is composed of a confused mass of cliffs jum- bled together. Two hundred yards North of it is a splendid arch or chasm, I. A. i U>4 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. in a high detached rock, through which the surges roll their white foam. Through the arch ou the main you behold the most luxuriant green vegeta- tion, contrasting with the white surge, the sombre cliffs, and the variegated surface of the ocean. This arch resembled the cloisters of some ancient cathedral. Three hundred yards to the North of this first-named arch is another, but smaller one, of similar character. Through this is seen the white sand and shells ou the beach, and between the water is of a light green shade ; outside, between us and the arch, the water being deeper, is of a darker green. Sailing on, the projection, or point, called the Capuchin, appeared, and soon after the Friar, for which, as the wind was rather scant off, I hauled up, and the water being very smooth, I passed it at not more than one cable's length distance, at b'^ 15™. I could not see any hidden danger or rock under water in my track. When we had passed the Friar, and neared Mew Island, he appeared conspicuous. But as the land be- tween is very high, and very thickly wooded, the Friar could not be very well made out as seen from a vessel in the offing, unless she was well to the eastward. From W.S.W. it did not appear to me to be an island at all ; there seemed to be dry rocks between it and the hill to the South, which connected the Friar with the higher land to the southward. liound the pitch of the Friar there is a very fine spacious-looking bay, called Mew Bay. There seems to be a low black detached rocky islet, a mile or so beyond the Friar to the S.E., but it is nearer the West than the East side very much. This bay seems very snug and convenient for anchoring in with a wind any ■way from the E.N.E. round by the southward to S.W. FIRST POINT {Eerste Punt), and the Friars Eoch.—The coast between Java Head and First Point forms a bight, and is fronted by high rocks, stretching out a considerable distance in some places. First Point, or Tan- jong Along-Ajang, the South point of entrance into Princes Channel, has a conspicuous rock lying abreast of it, called the Friar {Be Mo7inih), before alluded to, which rises abruptly out of the sea, and is steep-to, so that with a steady wind a ship may pass close to it. Close to the northward of First Point there is another rock above water, which together with the former are properly called the Friars. The LIGHTHOUSE on First Point was first illuminated in June, 1877. It is a stone tower, painted white, from which is shown a revolving light, ex- hibiting a flash of six seconds' duration once in every half minute. The light is elevated 305 ft. above the sea, and should be visible 25 miles off' in clear weather. PRINCES ISLAND {Prinsen Eiland), cr Pulo Panatan, separated from the West part of Java by Princes Channel, is the largest island in Sunda Strait. Its greatest length, between the West and N.E. points, is 12 miles, and its breadth about 8 miles. It is of an irregular form, projecting to a point on the N.E. side, and having a large bay on the S.W. side, the horns of which PRINCES CHANNEL. 155 form the "West and South points of the island. The middle and eastern parts of the island are hilly, the highest peak, 1,450 ft. above the level of the sea, being on the eastern shore ; but in some parts, particularly at the West end, the land is level and low from the sea ; all parts of the island abound in wood. A ship in want of water may anchor on the eastern side of this island in 35 fathoms, soft ground, about half a mile from the shore, with the peaked hill bearing about N. W. by N. Here is a small sandy bay, and at its eastern part a run of fresh water, where the casks must be filled about 100 yards up, the higher the better, otherwise the water will be brackish. It is, however, only in the N W. monsoon that water can be procured here, for in the S.E. monsoon all the springs are dry from want of rain, and there is, moreover, no safe anchorage in this monsoon along the East side of the island, as it is a dead lee shore. Kasuaris Bay, on the S.W. side of the island, is 4 miles deep, and has at its entrance soundings varying from 30 to 50 fathoms, decreasing inside to a convenient depth for anchoring ; but, being open to all winds between the West and South points, it is not frequented, and cannot be recom- mended. The Carpenters {Timmerlieden) are a large group of rocks about a mile in extent, projecting from the South point of Princes Island. Most of the rocks are above water ; they are black and pointed, looking very dangerous, and the sea is usually breaking over them. There is no bottom with 50 fathoms a short distance from these rocks. The West point of Princes Island is fronted by a reef to the distance of about Ih mile, several rocks of which are seen above water. On the N.W. and North sides the island is steep-to close to the fringe of reef which edges those shores. A fringe of reef extends from the N.E. point of the island, and along the shore on each side. A similar fringe extends about a third of a mile off the S.E. point of the island ; nearly 2 miles W.S.W. of which, close inshore, and near a conspi- cuous white rock, is a coral reef, upon which the sea is always breaking. PRINCES CHANNEL, between the Carpenters Ptocks ojBf the South end of Princes Island, and the Friars Eocks off the First point of Java, is 3 niiles broad at its narrowest part, and possesses the great advantage of affording anchorage to vessels when becalmed, which the Great Channel does not. Light baffling winds and calms are very common about the entrances to Sunda Strait, occurring even in the strength of the S.E. mon- soon, and vessels, when not able to anchor, are liable to be set back by adverse currents. The depths in this channel are much greater on the Princes Island shore thau on the opposite coast. Close to the Carpenters there is no bottom 156 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA. with 50 fathoms ; with Peaked Hill, on the S.E. part of the island, bearing from N. I W. to W. by N., there are 10 to 30 fathoms, coarse sand, shells, and coral, little more than a cable's length oflF shore ; with the same hill bearing from N.N.W. to S.W. there are 36 to 44 fathoms about a mile dis- tant from the shore. Towards Mew Bay the depths decrease to 20 fathoms and less. Directions. — In the S.E. monsoon, when proceeding either way through Princes Channel keep closer to the Java coast than to Princes Island. In the N.W. monsoon it often happens that vessels outward bound get very quickly to the westward by proceeding through Princes Channel, while those using the Great Channel are detained by heavy squalls and adverse currents. Indeed, instances have occurred in which ships have worked through this passage in a remarkably short time in a westerly gale, by carrying a heavy press of sail, and tacking between the squalls, at times when it was impossible for any ship in the Great Channel to beat against the current and heavy sea. Proceeding through Princes Channel in this monsoon, keep near Princes Island and the Carpenters, especially when working out against westerly winds, for a current will then sometimes be found setting to the westward. It is moreover very important to keep close to the Carpenters when working out, to avoid being set upon the rocks near Java Head and Palembang Point by the heavy swell, for, being once outside anchoring ground, and in a calm, a ship would have much trouble to clear the coast of Java. The S.E. coast of Princes Island must not, however, be approached within a mile. GREAT CHANNEL lies between the North point of Princes Island and the South point of Krakatoa Island, which are 23 miles apart; and although too deep for anchorage, it is much frequented, being the widest passage into the strait, and is considered to be, with the exception of the doubtful Hoedeken Rock,* clear of danger. If the strait is entered by this channel, keep Princes Island aboard, and when farther in the strait, keep on the Java shore. MEW ISLAND (Meeuwen Eiland), or Pulo Kanti, lying about 2J miles eastward from First Point, is nearly 2 miles in extent North and South, and 1 mile East and West. The island is hilly, and abounds with wood. Between it and First Point, close inshore, is a small islet or rock above * Hoedeken Sock is said to lie about 5 miles S.W. f S. from Krakatoa. Captain Drury, R.N., is reported to have examined a rock S.S.W. of Krakatoa some years ago, and found it to be near the water's edge. The Abdul Hassim, drawing 14 feet, is also said to have struck upon a rock, from which the peak of Krakatoa bore N.E. \ N., distance from the nearest part of the island 6 miles. There is, however, reason to believe that no rock e-xists in thi.s locality, for Mr. Richards, commanding EL.M. surveying vessel Saracen, care- fuUv sounded over it in 1854. SECOND POINT— WELCOME BAY. 157 water, called the Mew Stone. The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew Island, but safe to approach. The soundings decrease gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms. Between Mew Island and the main there is a narrow but safe channel, with depths from 10 to 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. When taking this pas- sage, keep close in towards Mew Island, as a shoal, called the Watson Bank, lies near the Java shore. Sometimes the sea breaks upon this bank, but between it and Mew Island there are depths of 3, 5, and 10 fathoms, clay bottom. To the eastward of Mew Island, on the Java shore, there is a good water- ing place in the S.E. monsoon ; the water is excellent, and is poured by a cataract upon the beach. Largeboats may approach this spot at high water through a narrow channel in the reef, and fill the cask by a hose. At low water they will require a great length of hose to reach the boats. A little to the northward of the watering place lies a reef of coral, about a cable's length in extent, and about half a mile from the Java shore. Upon its shoalest part there is 1 fathom water, and all round from 5 to 6 fathoms. A ship standing in for the watering place, must steer between this reef and the island, or rather nearer towards the island, and anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms. In the S.E. monsoon there is also a good anchorage a little farther out, with the North point of Mew Island about W. ^ S., and the East point S. by W., in 16 to 19 fathoms water, sandy bottom. Plenty of wood may be got upon Mew Island or the main land. Shore parties should be on the guard against any hidden assaults from the natives. At Mew Bay it is high water, full and change, at about 6''. SECOND POINT {Tweede Punt, or Tanjong Gukulang, consists of a low foreland, somewhat broad in appearance, the western extremity of which lies about N.E. by E., nearly 9 miles distant from First Point, and its northern extremity— which is usually known as Second Point — about 3 miles farther to the north-eastward. It may be approached without danger to the distance of a mile or even half a mile, and in from 26 to 20 fathoms water, the reefs projecting a little way off shore. From Mew Island towards Second Point reefs project half a cable's length from the shore, having very near them 5 to 6 fathoms water, which increases speedily to 10 and 20 fathoms ; but with due care and attention to the lead a ship may approach the shore in order to anchor. On the coast there is scarcely any population, but sometimes proas may be met with having turtle fowls, and cocoa-nuts for sale. WELCOME BAY ^Welkomst Baai).—^.'E.. by E., distant 20J miles from Second Point is Third Point, and between is a deep bight, named Welcome Bay, which in the S.E. monsoon affords good shelter, but should be avoided in the S.W. monsoon. There is, however, good anchorage in the S.AV. 158 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. monsoon, when the wind is not too northerly, behind Second Point in 9 or 10 fathoms water; but this anchorage should be approached with great caution, as the soundings decrease very suddenly near Second Point, and a shoal with 12 ft. water on it and 6 fathoms close-to, extends half a mile off shore between Second Point and Tambing Point. The West side of the bay takes from Second Point a direction about S.S.E. i E. for a distance of 11 miles, but about the middle of it the beach forms a small bight, with 4 fathoms at its entrance, but only 1 fathom further in. The whole of this side of the bay is skirted by reefs, some parts of which are a mile distant from the shore. Lieuts. Rietveld and Boom, D.E.N., surveyed Welcome Bay in 1841, and determined the positions of the shoals and islands given below. A large portion of the bay inside Panter and Rocky Ridge Reefs has not been ex- amined, but it is supposed to be dangerous. Two small islets, named Andellan and Little Andellan, lie contiguous to the S.W. shore of the bay, about 8 miles from Second Point, and 5 miles from Rocky Ridge. Three sand banks, each surrounded by a sunken reef, lie from half to three-quarters of a mile off these islands, in a N.N.E., East, and S.E. direction. Between these banks and Andellan are from 4 to 6 fathoms, mud; and between that island and the shore from three-quarters to If fathom. Near the liead of the bay, to the eastward of a small islet named Eongit, is a fourth bank. The distance across from the southern shore of Welcome Bay to the South Coast of Java is not more than 3 miles, and the sound of the surf on the South coast may be distinctly heard across the isthmus. The eastern shore of the bay is 22 miles in length, from the head of the bay to Third Point, in a direction about N.N.E., and the general depths off it are 15 to 24 fathoms at some little distance from the coast. Several islets and dano-ers lie off this shore. Baddu (Baddoe) is a small islet, surrounded by a reef, lying about 5 miles from the head of the bay, and about U mile N.W. of a point named Tanhjngi Parrie. Between this point and the islet are many coral rocks, for the most part dry at low water, and with depths of 7 to 9 fathoms between them. A large coral rock above water, usually covered with a heavy surf, and appearing of a bright white colour, lies W. i^ N., about \^ mile from Baddu ; and near it appear to be several reefs. Between the rock and the island are 6 to 12 fathoms water. Five or 6 miles north-eastward of Baddu is Plaggan Point, or False Rook, with some islands off it, the southernmost of which is called Mangir, and the others War, Umang (Oemang), and Sumiir (Soemoer). These islands, as well as Plaggan Point, are surrounded by reefs, a cable in breadth, but at a mile outside there are 15 fathoms, over mud bottom. Rocky Ridge is an extensive reef mostly above water, and always covered THIRD POINT— PEPPER BAY. 159 by breakers, by whicb it may be distinguished at a great distance. It lies about halfvray between the western shore of the bay and the Panter Reefs ; and from it Second Point bears N.W. by W. | W., the South puint of Baddu S.E. by E. J E., and the East point of Andellan S. ^ E. That part of it which remains dry at low water is about 100 yards in length, and the breadth of the surrounding reef the same. The soundings round it are 10 and 12 iathoms, increasing at some distance to 18 and 19 fathoms. Panter Reefs are the outermost of the known dangers which encumber "Welcome Bay, and they lie nearly midway between Second Point and Plag- gan Point. Erom their North extremity, in 11 fathoms, Second Point bears W. f N., Third Point N E. J N. 16 miles, the East point of Andellan Island S. by W. i W., and the S.W. point of Baddu Island S.E. ^ S. They con- sist of four different patches, lying in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction from each other, the whole being from half to three-quarters of a mile in extent. The shoalest patch has IJ fathom water, rocky bottom, but between and close round them are 9 and 10 fathoms, mud. East and West of these reefs are 17 and 18 fathoms, and to the north- ward 20 and 25 fathoms. Welcome Bay appears to be fuU oi dangers not surveyed, and should be entered with extreme caution. THIRD POINT {Berde Point), or Tanjong Lussong, like Second Point, is very low, although sharper, and fronted by rocks to the distance of 2 cables, from which the depths increase to 10 and 18 fathoms. The peak of Krakatoa Island bears N.W. by N. from it, and is distant about 21 miles. PEPPER BAY {Pej)er Baai).—'N.'E. by E. ^ E. 11 miles from Third Point is PapoUe Island, and between is Pepper Bay, which is formed by the coast trending away from Third Point to the southward for a distance of nearly 5 miles. Its shores are fronted by reefs, which near the points project about half a mile, increasing their distance from the shore towards the depth of the bay, where they extend lA mile. The bay is also encumbered with two dangerous reefs known as the Coral Bank and Paniang Reef. The soundings in the bay generally decrease uniformly from 14 to 10, 5, and 4 fathoms ; the latter depth will be found 2 miles off shore. In the eastern monsoon there is safe anchorage N.E. of Lawvengan Isle, in 6 or 8 fathoms, soft bottom. Coral Bank. — Nearly 2 miles East from Third Point is a coral bank, the greater part of which is above water, and readily distinguished by its bright white colour. The direction of this bank is S.E. by E. and N.W. by W., about 3 cables in length, and from it Third Point bears W. i S., the N.E. point of Lawvengan S.E. J E., and the West point of Papolle N.E. by E. Between this bank and Third Point there is a channel of 4 to 9 fathoms ■water, and the depths increase quickly from 7 to 15 fathoms at the distance of a mile. 160 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. Lawvengan Islet, lying in the depth of Pepper Bay, E. byS. J S., distant 3J miles from Third Point, is about three-quarters of a mile long, a aN.W. ^ W. and S.E. h E. direction, a quarter of a mile broad, and is surrounded by a reef, which projects farthest at the North side, where it reaches the dis- tance of 1 J cable's length. Three-quarters of a mile to the north-westward and to the westward of Lawvengan Islet are two reefs, partly dry at low water, and usually breaking. To the southward, and mid-channel between Lawvengan Isle and the shore, is a reef with only 3 ft. water upon it, between which and the island there is a narrow channel with 3 and 4 fathoms ; but between it and the shore are several small coral reefs that dry at low water. Paniang Reef is a ledge of rocks, the N.W. point of which bears W. by S. I S. IJ mile from the N.W. point of Papolle Island. It is a mile long, in a N.N.W. and opposite direction, and half a mile in breadth, and the shoalest water upon it is 3 ft., and on some parts from 1 to 3 fathoms are found. This ledge is very dangerous, as the sea does not often break upon it, and it cannot be approached by the lead, the depths very near it being 6 and 7 fathoms ; but by keeping a good lookout it may be distinguished by the light colour of the water, and its brown patches. Between Paniang Reef and Papolle Island, the soundings are 7 to 4 fa- thoms, mud bottom ; and on the East and S.E. sides of the reef 5 to 3 fa- thoms, towards the shore. Papolle Island, small, round, and about half a mile in diameter, lies within a mile of the shore, with which it is connected by a reef; there is, however, a channel of IJ fathom through this reef, fit for the navigation of proas. Tyringin or Tjeringie Reef, lying 5 miles North of Papolle Islet, and two-thirds of a mile off the shore near Tjeringie, is of coral, partly above water, and generally breaks. It is half a mile in extent N.N.E. and S.S.W., and very steep, having close outside of it 6 fathoms water, increasing to 9, 12, and 15 fathoms at 2 miles distance from the shore. Between this reef and a small rock near the shore there is a channel of 3 fathoms, often used by large proas. Anchorage. — Supplies may be obtained at Tjeringie, and a convenient an- chorage will be found to the northward of Tjeringie Eeef, at 1^ mile off shore, with Papolle bearing S. by E., and the flagstaff at Tjeringie E. by S. or E.S.E., in 7 fathoms, clay bottom. The COAST from Tjeringie runs N. by E. and N.N.E., and may be ap- proached, with due attention to the lead, to 2 miles distance, in 18 fathoms, without danger of striking upon the Catharine Eeef. The general appear- ance of the coast is low, though occasionally interrupted by hills and con- Bpicuous rocky points. Catharine Bank, lying about 4 miles to the southward of Fourth Point, FOURTH POINT. 161 and half a mile off shore, is a quarter of a cable in extent, N. by E. and S. by W., with some rocky points even with the water's edge, and in other places only half a fathom water ; with a little breeze the sea breaks upon it. From its outer edge Fourth Point bears N.N.E. ^ E., Krakatoa Peak West a little southerly, and the West point of Thwart-the-way N. 2 W. Outside this reef are 4 fathoms water, increasing to 10, 14, and 18 fa- thoms, the latter depth being within a mile of it; the channel between it and the shore has 3f and 4 fathoms, and is used by proas. Directions. — With a steady and commanding breeze a ship may steer N.N.E. from Third Point for Thwart-the-way, which is distant 30 miles ; or a N.N.E. ^ E. course for 26 miles, which will place her 2 or 3 miles off Fourth Point, when she may either proceed on her voyage or haul in for Anjer Road. Very often, however, the winds become light and variable there, and she may be compelled to anchor, in which case these courses would lead too far from the land. For these reasons it is better to keep on the Java shore, avoiding, however, the dangers in Pepper Bay, which should not be approached under a depth of 14 fathoms. When the current is running to the westward in the middle of Sunda Strait, an eddy will be experienced near the land, besides which, a vessel may be anchored anywhere along the shore, except near Fourth Point, where the bottom begins to get foul and rocky. When beating up, therefore, with a contrary wind, it is advisable not to keep too far out in the offing, in order to make the eddy available, and not to lose favourable anchoring ground, and perhaps be compelled to anchor in deep water. Along the coast to the northward of Tjeringie there are numerous villages (campongs), the inhabitants of which frequently come on board ship with fruit, fowls, eggs, &c., and often with turtle. FOURTH POINT ( Vierde Pmit), or Tanjong Tyhoravg, bearing N.N.E. f E., distant nearly 27 miles from Third Point, is low, but easily discerned from its numerous cocoa-nut trees. From it the nearest point of Thwart-the-way bears N.N.W. b\ miles, and Krakatoa Peak W. by S. nearly 27 miles. LIGHT. — In 1865 a stone lighthouse was erected on Fourth Point, near to the old tower. It is coloured white, 35 feet high, and exhibits, at 151 feet above the level of the sea, a. fixed white light of the second order, visible in clear weather at 20 miles off. A second light, visible 8 miles off, is shown in the direction of the telegraph cable, and vessels are warned not to anchor with both the lights in sight, or in the day time with the Lighthouse bearing between S.E. i S. and E. by S. f S. A signal station is attached to the lighthouse, from which signals by the Commercial Code will be answered or transmitted. Caution should be observed in approaching or rounding Fourth Point, for a reef projects from it more than half a mile, with soundings of 20 fathoms I. A. Y 162 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. close-to. Outside, or to the northward, the depths increase quickly to 25 fathoms, and at 2 or 3 miles off the point to 30 fathoms. The point should not, therefore, be approached any nearer than H niile when rounding it. The telegraph cable between Fourth Point and Anjer is marked by three white huoijs. ANJER.— At 2 miles E.N.E. from Fourth Point is the flagstaff at Anjer, in lat. 6° 3' 10" S., long. 105° 54' 50" E. The town is not easily perceived in coming from the westward, being situated in a bay where the houses are scattered amongst the cocoa-nut trees, and nearly obscured by them, and by a spur of a chain of hills inland. The easternmost of these is a sharp peaked hill called Anjer Peak, directly over the town, and is on with it bearing S.S.E. A red light is shown on the extremity of the western pier of the boat creek at Anjer Point. It is elevated 23 ft., and visible 4 miles off. The Road or anchorage is N. by W. from the fort in from 12 to 19 fathoms water, soft ground. From a position in 16 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile off sh'^re, the flagstaff of the fort bears S.S.E., Fourth Point S.W. \ S., the Cap N.N.E. i E., and the Button N. ^ E. ; and from thence the soundings decrease uniformly to 9 and 8 fathoms at about a cable's length from the reef which fringes the shore, This is but an indifferent roadstead in the N.W. monsoon, and landing is dangerous on account of the high surf. At this season the anchorage near North Island, on the Sumatra shore might be found more convenient. In the S.E. monsoon, ships, both outward and homeward bound, generally call here for water and refreshments, unless they are content to purchase the latter from some of the numerous native boats usually to be met with on the look out for vessels passing through the strait. Buffaloes, poultry, vegetables, and frequently hogs, sheep, and turtle are to be procured here : water may be had by applying to the shore boats. There is a signal station at Anjer for communicating with passing vessels. A telegraph cable crosses the strait from Anjer round the West end of Thwart- the-way, close by Hog Point, and up the eastern coast of Lampong Bay, to the coaling station near Telok Betong. Vessels should avoid anchoring in its vicinity. Light. — Two lights, each elevated 35 ft., are exhibited on the piers form- ing the boat creek at Anjer Point. Caution. — Ships should approach the anchorage of Anjer Road with great caution, especially at night, paying particular attention to the lead. They should not attempt to bring up in less than 15 or 13 fathoms, or they will probably get too near the reef fronting the shore, very close to which are 8 and 7 fathoms water. "In weighing from Anjer Road with a westerly wind and flood tide, a vessel should cast as quickly as possible with her head off shore, and shoot THWART-THE-WAY. 163 well into the strait, where she will have room and time to pick her anchor up ; it being dangerous to keep a ship drifting in the road while heaving it close up, in consequence of a steep rocky point to leeward, called Lenning. A large ship was recently totally lost upon it, having drifted on while get- ting her anchor to the bows. " Ships have frequently found themselves in dangerous proximity to this reef from anchoring in too small a depth of water, and with no room to veer in the event of sudden and violent squalls, which, as in most tropical coun- tries, are very common in this strait." — Capt. J. B. Caldheck. THWART-THE-WAY {Dwars in den weg), or Pulo Renjang, lying in the middle of the narrowest part of Sunda Strait, is 450 ft. high, and easily recognized by its irregular shape. It is 2^ miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and very steep all around, except at its southern extremity, where a reef projects 2 or 3 cables' lengths, on which a rock above water is visible. Capt. J. B. Caldbeck states that the reef projects a greater distance out than is generally supposed from the southern end of Thwart-the-way ; and that at low water the sea breaks more than a mile from the island. The highest part of the island bears N. by W. f W., 6^ miles from Fourth Point, S.W. by W. f W. from St. Nicholas Point, and N.E. by E. J E. from Krakatoa. The West side of the island forms a small bay, in which there is temporary anchorage in 16 or 17 fathoms pretty close to the reef, with the N.W. point bearing North to N.N.W., and the South point from E.S.E. to S.E. by E. A 5 -fathom patch lies about a mile oflf this part of the island, with irregular depths, 10 to 26 fathoms, around it. CHANNELS. — The channel between Thwart-the-way and Java is the most convenient for sailing vessels, owing to the depths of water being but from 20 to 30 fathoms, whereas the channel between Thwart-the-way and Sumatra has 40 to 50 fathoms. The latter channel, described hereafter, is moreover encumbered with the Stroom Rocks, in dangerous proximity to which ships are liable to be set by rapid currents, and unable, from the great depth of water, to bring up by anchoring.* The narrowest part of the channel be- tween the rocks oflF the South point of Thwart-the-way and the reef off * " "With regard to the respective merits of these channels, being bound either way through the strait, the preference may he decidedly given to that between Anjer and Thwart-the-way, in consequence of the great rapidity and uncertaint}' of the tides in the neighbourhood of the Stroom Rocks, rendering their proximity very dangerous, and unless in a strong breeze a ship is almost unmanageable. The depth of water on the Stroom side is almost double that on the Anjer shore, except in a S.W. line from the Button to Thwart- the-way. Instances have lately been known of ships which, being drifted dangerously close to the Stroom Rocks, let go their anchors and run their cables out to the clinch ; they were of course still whirled on until by a lucky chance they barely went past the rocks and no more."— Capt. J. B. Caldbeck. Naul. Mag., 1843. 164 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. Foint is a little more than 4 miles ; and the distance is the same between the S.E. end of Thwart-the-way and the Cap. The Cap {Bralands hoeclje), or Pulo Vlar, is a small rourd-shaped island, only about a cable's length in diameter, lying N. by E. 3 miles from Anjer, and about E.S.E. 4 miles from the S.E. end of Thwart-the-way. A shoal is said to lie between the Cap and the main land of Java, from which Fourth Point bears S.W., and the Cap N.W. by W. ^ W. BROUWERS SAND is a dangerous bank, lying between the Cap and Merak Island, nearly 2 miles off the Java shore. It is composed of very hard sand, and extends nearly 3 miles along the coast in a N.E. f N. and opposite direction, its breadth being only 2 cables. There are three shoal patches on the bank, the least water being IJ fathom at low tides, and the general depths 3J or 4 fathoms. Its southern limit is 2J miles N.E. from the Cap ; and its northern end forms with Merak Island a channel 2 cables wide, with depths of 18 to 10 fathoms water. Between this bank and the shore there is a channel a mile wide, with 6 to 10 fathoms water, which increases in the direction of the Cap to 15 and 20 fathoms. But in this channel a rock called Kroenjo, which partly dries at low water, lies at 1^ or 2 cables off shore, with the Cap bearing S.W. by W. i W., the Button N.W. i N., and the West point of Merak Island N- I W. To avoid it, when standing in shore, the Cap should be kept inside of Fourth Point, for the Cap in line with Fourth Point leads just outside the edge of the bank. GREAT MERAK ISLAND, or Pulo MeraTc Besar, lying N.E. f N. 5 J miles from the Cap, is of considerable height, nearly round, and about half a mile in diameter. The island is bordered by a reef, which on the N.W. side pro- jects nearly a third of a mile.- Little Merak, or Pulo Merak Ketchil, lies near the shore, abreast the North end of Brouwers Sand, about half a mile to the south-eastward of Great Merak. It is connected to the main by a reef of rocks, which is just under water, and consequently cannot be passed by laden boats. MERAK HARBOUR is between Great and Little Merak Islands and the main coast of Java. It is nearly half a mile in extent, but in mid-channel between the islands there is a rocky bank called Tarremhoe, which partly dries at low water. The harbour may be entered by the channel on either side of this bank, as they carry from 5 to 10 fathoms water. The channel into the harbour North of Great Merak is the best, as it is more than a cable in breadth, and carries 6 to 14 fathoms. Entering by the southern channels, keep nearer to the Merak Islands than to the Tarremhoe Bank ; entering by the northern channel, keep Great Island shore aboard. The anchorage with S.W. winds is East from the highest part of Great Merak, and North of Tarremhoe Bank, in 6 or 11 fathoms water, soft ground. The Juva shore is steep-to. Sometimes a heavy swell sets into the harbour, THE COAST OF SUM ATE A. 165 for which reason it is not to be considered safe for ships in the N.W. mon- soon, but small vessels will always find good shelter under Great Merak. The COAST from Merak Island takes a north-easterly direction for about 4^ miles to St. Nicholas Point. About midway between is a small islet, named Tempoza, lying close in shore. A reef fronts this coast, extending a third of a mile from it, and passing just outside Tempoza. Close to this reef are depths of 10 and 15 fathoms. The shore should not be approached nearer than half a mile, or in less than 20 or 18 fathoms water. The sound- ings increase regularly from the shore to 30 fathoms ; at a distance of 4 miles there are 40 to 50 fathoms. The BUTTON {Toppers hoedje) is a high and steep little island covered with trees, and about the size of the Cap, lying well out in the fairway of Sunda Strait, 5 miles to the north-eastward of Thwart-the-way. It has 34 and 30 fathoms close-to, and bears from St. Nicholas Point AY. by S., distant nearly 7 miles, and from Hog Point E. | N., \2^ miles. The Anna anchored, to wait a tide during the night, in 28 fathoms, E. 3° S. from the Button ; and on another occasion she anchored for the night in 37 fathoms of water, with the Button bearing S.W. J S. : here, however, a hard bottom was found. ST. NICHOLAS POINT, inlat. 5° 52' 33" S., long. 106° 2' 10" E., is the extreme end of the high bold promontory forming the northern point of Java. Dangers extend about a third of a mile oflF the point, and close to them are 11 fathoms, and 32 to 35 fathoms at a distance of from 1 to 2 miles. Directions. — When proceeding to the northward from, or being abreast of, Anjer Poad, steer to pass outside the Cap and inside the Button, at any con- venient distance from either, taking care not to borrow too close to Brouwers Sand in passing. When clear of that shoal and the Button, steer about N. by E. for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banka Strait ; or to pass St. Nicholas Point at about 2 miles if bound to Bantam or Batavia. THE COAST OF SUMATRA. The western coast of Sumatra, terminating at the N.W. point of the Strait of Sunda, is described in our " Directory for the Indian Ocean." The deeply indented southern (.oast of this great island forms the northern side of the strait. It is occupied by the Lampiings, or Lampongs, a distinct people from the other nations of Sumatra, resembling in this respect the people of Java on the other side of the strait, and is, like them, subject to the Dutch Govern- ment. The geologic formation is of the same character as that of the Sunda country of Java, a mass of volcanic mountains, some of which rise to great 166 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA. elevation, as those of Lampong and Tanjamus, 7,500 ft. The people are, compared with the rest of the Sumatrans, rude and unpolished, though having a written language. Their country is far from fertile, and much of it incapable of being cultivated. The chief product for exportation is black pepper, next to this are rattans and dammer or resiri. It was formerly the dominions of the King of Bantam. It has been surveyed by order of Admiral E. Lucas, by Lieutenants J. A. G. Eietveld and E. H. Boom, 1841. The correct Dutch orthography can scarcely be followed, as many of the names have for so many years been recognized as they will be given, that it has been thought advisable to retain them. The South coast of Sumatra, between Flat Point on the "West and Hog Point on the East, a distance of 70 miles, is indented by two large bays, named Keyser and Lampong, the shores of which are fronted by numerous islands and rocks. FLAT POINT ( riaklce Hoek), in lat. 5° 59' S., long. 104° 32' 37" E., is the southern extremity of Sumatra, and the north-western boundary of Sunda Strait. It is properly the western extreme of the low projecting tongue of land which separates Keyser Bay from Blimbing Bay, and the East point of which is usually, though improperly, called Chinna Point, its correct name being Rada, another point 3 miles more to the westward being Chinna Point. Mada Point bears East a little northerly, and is distant 9 miles from Flat Point. A small reef fringes the shore about Flat Point, but at a mile off shore are 7 to 10 fathoms. At 2| or 3 miles S.W. of Flat Point there is a narrow bank, with 8, 13, and 15 fathoms water on it, about 5 miles in length, W.N.W. and E.S.E., and about a mile in breadth., partly consisting of reddish sand. The soundings outside this bank increase rapidly to 30, 40, and 50 fathoms, and inside of it there is a channel, about 1^ mile wide, with 14 and 15 fathoms. LITTLE FORTUNE ISLAND {Klein Fortuin Eiland), or Pulo Batu Ketchil, lies in front of Blimbing Bay, just outside Sundd Strait, N.W. by W. 9 miles from Flat Point, and about 5 miles from the main ; it is low, woody, about a mile in diameter, and surrounded by a reef also a mile in extent. BLIMBING or Billimbing Bay is inside Little Fortune Island, and north- ward of Flat Point. At its entrance ships may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, and find a good berth with S.E. winds, but not with those from the N.W. Small vessels will be sheltered from all winds by anchoring further inside in 3 fathoms, behind the projecting reef. There is also anchorage off the East side or Little Fortune Island, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In some charts two reefs are placed in this bay close in shore ; it is very probable they do not exist, but it will be advisable to be careful. KEYSER BAY— KEYSER ISLAND. 167 On the East side of this bay is a small river, but its water is brackish ; a fresh-water spring, however, may be found inside the S.W. point, from which a reef projects a quarter or half a mile to the northward. Approaching Sunda Strait by night, the soundings will be a good guide in passing Little Fortune Island and Flat Point. At 6 miles off shore the depths are 40 and 30 fathoms, and, with a commanding breeze, ships may venture into 20 or even 15 fathoms; but when too dark to distinguish the land, it is advisable not to shoal to less than 20 fathoms. KEYSER or SAMANGKA BAY runs inland in a north-westerly direction about 30 miles, and is about 20 miles wide at entrance. Its western shore is steep, affords no shelter from south-easterly winds, and has 20 or 30 fathoms water within half a mile of it. Tampang Bay, just round Eada Point, on the western side of Keyser (pro- perly Keizers) Bay, is only an open bight, but has good anchorage ground in depths from 12 to 15 fathoms, a mile off shore. A ship will be exposed here to south-easterly winds, and will have much difficulty, on account of the rocky shore, in getting water from the shallow rivulets that discharge themselves into the bay. The village of Borne is in the N.W. part of Keyser Bay, at the mouth of Samangka rivulet, the water of which is good, but boats will find it difficult to enter. The land is low, and fronting the sea marshy. The best an- chorage is East, or E. by N. from the mouth of the rivulet, 1 or 1^^ mile distant from the shore. Ships lie here usually without danger from south- easterly winds, which seldom throw a very high swell so far up the bay. Near Belong Point, the southern extremity of the bay near Borne, there is a rocky shoal which projects more than a mile in the offing, with 10 fathoms very near it. The eastern side of Keyser Bay, North of Kalang-bayang Harbour, is not so steep as the western side, and affords good anchorage about 2 miles off, in 20 or 30 fathoms ; but it is also exposed to south-easterly winds. KEYSER ISLAND, or Pulo Lahuan, lying nearly in the middle of the entrance of Keyser Bay, is high and steep-to all round, and affords but one spot fit for anchorage, a very indifferent berth in the western monsoon, which is on the N.E. side in 25 to 30 fathoms, sand, and very near the shore. There is fresh water, but the high surf renders landing very troublesome. The island is inhabited, well cultivated, and produces large trees fit for masts. Kalang-Bayang Harbour, or Koloemhyan Bay, on the eastern side of Key- ser Bay, and about East from the North point of Keyser Island, is small, but safe, and affords good shelter from all winds, with sufficient depths of water for large ships. It may be easily recognised by the high and rocky island of Eyoe, which lies about a mile outside, and can be seen 1 5 miles off. Half a mile north-westward of Eyoe there is another island, or rather rock, called 168 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA. Pulo Klappa, with a single cocoa-nut tree upon it. There is a safe channel with 25 fathoms water between these islands. This harbour has been said to be well adapted for a fleet in want of re- freshments, as every supply may be obtained ; but the Java Guide says that refreshments are very scarce. Water may be obtained from a small rivulet in the north-eastern part of the bay. In the N.W. monsoon, enter the harbour by the western passage between Pulo Klappa and the North point called Tanjong Napal, and when the latter bears about West, or W. by S., anchor near the eastern beach in 10 fathoms, soft ground, or anywhere in the harbour, there being no hidden danger. In the S.E. monsoon, steer in about N. by E., between Eyoe and Klappa Islands. With a commanding breeze a vessel may pass eastward of Eyoe, between it and Pulo Batu Kabu on a N.N.W. course. These channels lead close to the Bover Hocks, which are, however, easily avoided, and left to the eastward, as most of them are above water. Kiloang Bay lies 5 miles to the south-eastward of Kalang-bayang, and also affords safe anchorage. It may be known by Tongkalie Island, which is visible 12 miles off, and lies off the East point of the bay, being separated from the main by a small channel only fit for boats. This bay, as well as Kalang-bayang Harbour, contains all sorts of wood. Coming from the westward or southward with a leading wind, steer for Tongkalie till it bears East, distant 2 or 3 cables' lengths, when three groups of black rocks will be seen, the southernmost of which bears N.N.W. from Tongkalie, and S.W. from the others. Steer N.E. and E.N.E. past these rocks in from 30 to 20 fathoms, for the eastern side of the bay, which is very high, till Kiloang Island bears West, where a good anchorage may be taken in 13 fathoms between it and the beach, and sheltered from all winds. Ki- loang Island, which is small and not very high, lies near the eastern beach of this bay, with some rocks at its northern and southern extremities, a large reef to the eastward, and a smaller one on its western side. Although the bay is spacious, yet pass close to the westward of Tongkalie. Everywhere €lse in the bay anchoring ground may be found in 16 to 18 fathoms, but accompanied by a heavy swell. MOUNTAINS. — The land of Sumatra, eastward of Kalang-bayang Har- bour and Kiloang Bay, is very high, consisting of the Kalang-bayang or Kamantara Mountains, 3,418 ft. high; and 3 miles farther to the northward the Ratteh Mountains, the southernmost peak of which is 5,097 ft. above the sea. More westerly, and not far from the shore of Keyser Bay, the Lani- pong Mountains rise to the height of 6,560 ft., and Joukamoe, or Keyser Peak, situated 11 or 12 miles farther to the north-westward, and near the head of the bay, reaches to 7,412 ft. Pepper Bay is on the North shore of Lagundy Strait, on the West side of Tikus Point, the S.W. point of entrance of Lampong Bay. It has a huge LAMPONG BAY. 169 three-cornered rock in the middle, and is very limited ; but the native proas row up behind the high western beach, where there are 18 fathoms water close in. LAMPONG BAY, formed between Tikus Point on the West, and Pvajah Bassa on the East, is very extensive, being about 20 miles wide at entrance, and stretching northward into the land nearly the same distance. At its entrance the Lagoendy Islands, hereafter described, extend 8 miles to the eastward from Tikus Point. Other islands line the western shore of the bay inside, between which and the main there are several good roads or places of shielter. In every part of the bay, from North to South, will be found from 10 fathoms, mud, to 20 fathoms, clay bottom. If a vessel keep outside the islands on the western shore of the bay there are but tivo dangers, both of which may be easily avoided. The first is a sandbank, dry at low water, surrounded by a reef, which rises from 17 fathoms, mud, and bears E.S.E. 1^ mile from Kalagian, and N.E. :^ N. 2 miles from Little Pokowang. The second is a reef with 2 and \^ fathoms upon it, bearing S.E. ^ S. 1;^ mile from the easternmost of the Choondong Islands. Pedada Bay, the first bight to the northward of Tikoes Point, on the western side of Lampong Bay, is 1^ mile wide at entrance, and 3|- miles deep. When running into this bay in the direction of the southern end of the Kalang-bayang Mountains, on a W. ^ N. course, the soundings will be 20 to 15 lathoms, clay and mud, and ihe three small islands of Pedada, Pena- rian, and Lilanga will be seen. Pedada is the easternmost and highest, but N. by E. from it half a mile there are two detached reefs, usually covered with breakers ; and a third reef N.E., which bears W. by S. from the North point of the bay. Keeping this last reef on the starboard bow, and the other two on the port bow, will lead to an anchorage in 15 fathoms water, very near the village of Pedada, bearing W. ^ N. This village is to the westward of Lalanga Island, and stands on a clear fresh- water stream. The high rocky islet of Klappa is connected with Pedada Point by three groups of rocks above water, leaving, however, between each of them a passage for small craft. North-eastward of Klappa lie also three patches of rock, with 17 and 16 fathoms, clay, between them ; to avoid them, keep Lalanga Island to the westward of North, This small island is also high, with a reef extending about 2 cables from its N.E. point. Poondo Bay, lying 4 or 5 miles to the northward of Pedada Bay, is 2 miles wide and 3 miles deep, with 10 to 7 fathoms water. Across the en- trance lies Pokowang, the largest island iu Lampong Bay except Lagoendy, with a peak on its northern side, and to the eastward a small island, to which it is connected by a reef. Poondo Bay may be approached on either side of Pokowang. When J. A. 'i 170 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. taking the northern passage, which is preferable, the white coral reefs are seen at some distance, but avoid the reef X)rojecting 3 cables' lengths N.E. from the island, with 15 fathoms close to it. There is also a detached coral reef close to the N.W. point of Pukowang, which must be kept on the p'jrt side, while the four coral reefs, lying mid-channel N.AV. and W.N.W., from the centre of Pokowang, should be kept on the starboard side. Kateh. Bay comes next to Poondo Bay. It is 3 miles in exteut each way, with 16 to 18 fathoms, mud bottom, and at the entrance lies Kalagian. Inland, which is high, and has a small island separated from its South point by a boat channel of 3 to 8 fathoms water. Not quite a mile S. by E. from Kalagian lies a coral reef, showing at low water like a black speck, and bearing W. by N. J N. 1^ mile from the above-mentioned coral reefs, between which is 17 and 14 fathoms, mud. Eatteh Bay may be approached on either side of Kalagian ; and the two reefs, which dry at low water, to the westward of the island, may be discerned at some distance, and consequently easily avoided. Mahitam Island lies off the North point of Eatteh Bay, with which it is connected by a reef. There is good anchorage on its North side, in 13 fathoms, mud bottom. Tagal Island, flat-topped and conspicuous, bears N.E. If mile from Ma- hitam, and about W. by S., 3^ miles from the Choondong Islands, and is visible throughout the whole of Lampong Bay. When coming in from the eastward, a vessel may steer for it on a N.W. bearing, and pass it in 15 fathoms ; if entering from the southward it is a mark for Lagoendy Strait. In the bay north-westward of Tagal there are the two villages, Ringong and Oerong ; and near the South point of the bay is the small island Laho, connected to the shore by a reef, and throwing out another to the nurthward. Tankel Island is 3 miles North of Tagal. The North side is low, but the South side high. The Head of Lampong Bay, northward of Tankel, narrows, so as to be scarcely 4 miles wide, but it contains four islands : — Pomogotang, 1^ mile Noi'th from Tankel, is all sand, but has some trees, and is surrounded by a large reef. Little Pomogotang is a bank without trees, 1 mile W.N.W. from the former, and also begirt by a broad reef. Koeher Island, lying S.W. from Pomogotang, is separated from the main by a 5-fathom channel, and a reef runs out 2 cables' lengths from its eastern side. A black beacon buog marks the eastern side of a reef; it lies N. 39° E. from Koeber Island, and South from a white beacon buoy, with the harbour office at the mouth of the river, N. 43° W., and the foot of Mount Apen N. 7° E. The fourth is the low island of Passarang, in Telok Betong Road, S.E. from the river. Besides these islands there are some coral reefs. Telok Betong, situated in the north-western part of the bight, is the chief town of Lampong Bay. Its population consists of natives of Sumatra and BAJAH BASSA ROAD- KLArPA. 171 Bugis, with a Regent from the Dutch Grovernment as their chief. They trade with the Javanese in Larapong tobacco, which is highly esteemed. A telegraph cable connects Telok Betong with Anjer. The Dutch Government have a coal store at or near here, but fresh provisions are reported as difficult to be obtained. A red light, elevated 39 ft., is shown from an iron column. The eastern side of Lampong Bay, between Telok Betong and the Choon- dong Isles, is high, free from dangei', and may be approached in safety to 14 and 15 fathoms, close to. From the Choondong Islands to Rajah Bassa the coast, at 2 or 3 cables' lengths distance, is fronted by a line of rocks. The Choondong Islands are three in number, of which the northernmost is a steep rock, and the two others are larger, but not so high. A detached 6-ft. reef is reported 1 J cable E. of the southernmost of the Choondong Isles. To the northward of the Tiega Islets the Sumatra coast forms a deep curve, called Blantong or Lohogh Bay^ with 4 or 5 fathoms, mud, and a salt- water river. The points of the bay on each side are covered with rocks and a high surf. Tiga or Tiega Islets, three rocky islets lying 3 miles off shore, appear as one when coming from the eastward, and do not begin to open until Rajah Bassa Road is approached. Eajah Bassa Road. — The land forming the south-eastern part of Lampong Bay is high, and rises to two conspicuous peaks, 3 or 4 miles inland, named Rajah Bassa Mountains. The height of the N.W. peak is 4,398 tt., and that of the S.E. peak 4,093 ft. Rajah Bassa Road, which lies directly off the high land, was frequently visited by the China ships, it being an excellent place to obtain good water with facility, and other refreshments, although Anjer is still better. There are three villages on the shore of Rajah Bassa Road. The first is Kalinda, bearing N.N.E. f E. from the Tega Islets, and having in front of the white sandy beach some large rocks above water, between which are the openings that make it easy to land. The anchorage is in 7 to 10 fathoms, mud. West from the village, and a mile off shore. The second village is Tyanti, which lies E.N.E. from the largest Tiga Islet, and abreast that part of the road where is the best anchorage, and the best watering places. The third village, called Rajah Bassa, is just to the northward of Cocoa-nut Point, and about East from the Tega Islets ; it is the largest one of the three, but the watering there is very difficult, at least much more so than at Tyanti, and the landing dangerous with westerly winds. KLAPPA, or Cocoa-nut Point, or Rajah Bassa Point, is low, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and bears N.W. by W. nearly 8 miles from Hog Point, and E. by S. \ S. from the Tiga Islets. Between Cocoa-nut and Hog Points the coast curves in to the north- eastward 2 miles, and at the bottom of this bight are the two small Bight Islands, surrounded by reefs. About li mile north-webtward of Hog Point, and about 1^- mile off shore. 172 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA, is the Tims Klip or Collier Hod; 6 or 7 ft. above water, and 56 ft. In circuit. It is fringed by a reef, which on the N.E. side projects about 50 ft. Another rock above water lies about a cable's length westward of Hog Point, with deep water all around it. The LAGXTNDY or LAGOENDY GROUP, lying in the S.W. part of the entrance to Lampong Bay, consists of seven islands, viz., Lagoendy, Eound, Saka, Soengal, Tims, Sussarat, and Mangoman. They are uninhabited, but produce good timber, deer, and wild hogs. Along the southern shores of the first four islands the sea in the western monsoon is very violent Lagoendy, the largest island of the group, is nearly 5 miles in length, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and close to the southward of its West point' are two liigh, round-shaped rocks, covered with verdure, N.E. ^ E. and S.W. ^ "W. from each other, with a boat channel between them. On the S.E. side of Lagoendy there is another rook or islet of the same character. On the North side of Lagoendy there is a small but safe bay, Navgga Har- hour, with depths of 15 to 7 fathoms. In the middle of the entrance is the small island Fafappati, behind which a ship may find good shelter from wind and sea. There is room for ten or twelve ships, and fresh water is found on Lagoendy, S.E. from Patappan. Mangoman Island, lying a little outside Nangga Harbour, has 15 to 22 fathoms, clay, all round it, except on its eastern side, where there are only 10 to 15 fathoms. When coming from the eastward or northward, a mistake may occur between this island and Patappan, but the latter is lower and smaller than Mangoman. LAGOENDY STEAIT, between Tikoes Point and the Lagoendy Islands, is 2 miles wide, and may be recommended to ships working out of Lampong Bay in the N.W. monsoon. About mid-channel is the high island of Sus- sarat, with 10 fathoms, sand, close-to, and 30 fathoms farther off. Near its W^est point there are some rocks, but they are high above water. Although this island is in the middle of the channel, yet in a calm ships need not be alarmed by the current whieh seems to set towards it. The passages on either side of Sussarat are equally good. A Coral Reef, carrying only 2 fathoms water, and having 13 fathoms around it, lies northward of Mangoman Island, and from its N.E. side the highest point of Sussarat bears S.W. by W. \ W. ; the West point of Lagoendy S.W. \ S. ; the North point S.E. ^ E. ; and the middle of Man- goman S. \ E. The reef is about 75 yards long, and cannot be distinguished by discoloured water. A rock awash, which breaks in moderate weather, has been discovered in Lagoendy Strait, S. 24° E. from Tanjong Blantong (^?). — Naut. Mag.^ June, 1877, pp. 622-3. Eound Island lies ofi" the East end of Lagoendy, its length being about 2^ miles, N.W. and S.E., and its breadth nearly a mile, Saka lies about KEAKATOA ISLAND. 173 one-third of a mile off the S.W. point of Eound Island ; and Soengal about the same distance off the S.E. point. The passage between Lagoendy and Round Island cannot be recommended, nor that between Eound Island and Soengal, for although the water is every- where deep, the gr"und is foul and the current strong. Tims Island, lying 3 miles eastward of Soengal, is very small and low, consists chiefly of red day, and is surrounded by a broad reef with heavy breakers ; bnt thp channels on either side of it are quite clear. KRAKATOA ISLAND (or Krahatou), lying in the middle of Sunda Strait, is about 5 miles in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 3 miles broad. Its fine conical peak, rising boldly up to the height of 2,623 ft., may be seen at a considerable distance, and serves as a fairway mark for ships entering the strait from the westward. It is in lat. 6° 9J' S., long. 105° 27' 20" E. Arange of high land runs from the peak in a northerly direction for \\ mile, when it turns to the north-westward, and, gradually diminishing in height, disap- pears at the N.W. point of the island ; the outline of the range is marked by several prominences or peaks. The North coast of the island consists of rocky hills, without any vegetation whatever. The West and South coasts also consist of a steep and rocky shore, and it is only on the eastern coast that there is any level land. There is a small spring of fresh water on the N.E. side of Krakatoa, oppo- site the South end of Lang Island, but it can only be approached by boats at high water, and ships should not depend upon watering there. A short distance to southward is a hot spring, in which the thermometer rose to 154°. A bank of soft mud extends from the Eist side of Krakatoa and Lang Island about 3 miles, with the peak bearing W.S."W. to S.W. by W., affording excellent shelter. from westerly gales, by anchoring in from 20 to 23 fathoms about Ij or 2^ miles off shore. The peak bearing S.W. by W. is the best berth ; but a ship should not anchor with the North end of the island to the southward of West, or she will be exposed to a heavy eea rolling in from the westward between Krakatoa and Pulo Bezee, during a westerly gale. A submerged rock, hereafter described, is marked on the chart nearly East from the peak of Krakatoa, and a quarter of a mile off shore. On the 21st February, 1829, the Russian corvette Holler, commanded by Captain Liitke, although only drawing 14 ft., touched on a coral patch, said to lie \\ mile from the nearest point of Krakatoa, and S.E. from the isle lying off its N.E. point ; but the description of its position, being rather ambiguous, is not satisfactory. Verlaten (or Fomaken Island), 2 miles long, and half a mile broad, lies close off the N.W. end of Krakatoa, from which it is separated by a narrow channel with numerous reefs, which make it dangerous for boats to pass through. A white rock 60 ft, high, and another rock 80 ft. high, lie about 174 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA. three-quarters of a mile oflF its S. W. end ; and about a mile East of that end of the island, between it and Krakatoa, is a rock or islet, with a rock awash a short distance to the southward of it. Lang Island, about 1| mile long North and South, and about half a mile- broad, is separated from the N.E. side of Krakatoa by a channel barely 2 cables wide at its narrowest part. A reef stretches out from its N.W. side nearly half a mile, and encircles its North and East sides at an average dis- tance of half a mile, terminating off its South point. The West side of the island is bold and cliflPy, with deep water close to. The Polish Hat {Poohche hoed) is a round islet, lying off the West side of Lang Island, between it and Krakatoa ; a reef projects about half a cable's length from its N.E. side. The Channel between Lang Island and Krakatoa is from one-half to one- quarter of a mile wide. The shore of Krakatoa, forming: the West side of the channel, is fringed with a reef extending about a cable's length from it, except at the point nearest Lang Island, where it projects only about a quarter of a cable. The soundings in the channel are deep, 30 and 28 fathoms, but they are very irregular, decreasing towards the Polish Hat from the southward. A shoallies a mile S.S.E. from the South point of Lang Island, and about a quarter of a mile from the shore of Krakatoa. It extends about 1^ cable in the direction of the chai nel, and has a rock which is sometimes awash, and others just under water, upon it. The West extreme of Lang Island in line with the Eist extreme of Krakatoa leads between this shoal and the reef extending off to the S.E. point of Lang Island, although it passes very close to both. BEZEE, or Tamarind Island, bearing about N. by E., nearly 12 miles from Krakatoa Peak, is nearly 3 miles in extent North and South, and 3;^ East and West. This island has also a high peak, named Sehezee, sharper than that of Krakatoa, and resembling a sugar-loaf, which rises abruptly to a height of 2,825 ft. from the southern extremity of the island, and slopes gently down to the northward. A reef projects about a third of a mile from the West side of the island, some rocky points of which are visible above ■water ; and off the N.E. side there are three small islets called Huisman, Little Tamarind, and Govts, all of which are surrounded by small reefs having banks between them ; the islands and reefs extend a little over half a mile from the shore. Bezee Island produces a certain tjuantity of pepper, and is inhabited by natives belonging to the villages in Lampong Bay. The village is on the East side, opposite Little Tamarind Island. All around this island there is good anchorage in 15 to 25 fathoms water ; and at a mile from tlie N.E. side there is an excellent roadstead, even in S.W. gales, with 13 fathoms water. Bezee Channel, between Krakatoa and Bezee, is 7 miles wide, and fre- quently used by ships working out in the N.W. monsoon, in preference to SEBUKO ISLAND. 175 the Great channel, because here they have regular soundings from 18 to 30 fathoms, and may anchor when convenient. Boom Eock, lying nearly half a mile off the South point of Bezee Island, is a few feet above water. Hindostan Rock is the only known danger in this passage. A ship of that name is said to have struck upon it in 1791, and found on its summit, which was only 6 or 8 ft. in diameter, 15 ft. water, and 10 fathoms close-to. Krakatoa Peak bore from it S. by W. i W. ; the "West extremity of Verlaten Island S.W. ; the East extreme of Lang Island S. 5 W. ; Bezee Island from N.E. to N. i W. ; the peak of Keyser Island W. by N. ; and the Zeeklip W. i N., well open to the southward of Keyser Island. Lieutenants Eietveld and Boom tried to discover this rock, but without success, though they found a shoal with 5^ fathoms least water, consisting of hard rock and coral, and having all around 6 to 13 fathoms, soft mud and clay, and at some distance 19 fathoms. From this slioal Krakatoa bore 8. by W. J W. ; West extremity of Verlaten Island S.W. ; South point of Zeeklip West ; and the angle between the two extremes of Bezee Island waa 68° 30'. Some of these bearings agree exactly with the former, and it is more than probable that it is the same rock ; but, if not, the true Hindoston ruck must be very near to this shoal, possibly a little to the north-eastward or eastward of it. To avoid the Hiudostan rock or rocks, keep at least 2 miles from the South side of Bezee Island The best mark for proceeding through this channel, is never to bring Gap Eock open to the southward of Keyser Islaud, W. by N. Between Hindostan Eock and Boom Eock there are 10, 16, and 20 fathoms water, rocky bottom; but between this latter rock and Bezee there are 8, 9, 13, 11, and 8 fathoms, with foul bottom. Lieut. Eietveld saw here different patches of light-coloured water, owing, apparently, to an eddy current, and although they much resemble sunken rocks, all the casts of the lead indicated IG to 19 fathoms. Zee-Klip {Sea Eock), bearing W. by S. 6 miles from Sebezee Peak, con- sists of three pyramidal rocks very near each other, and showing above water ; the southernmost is the largest, and is often called the Gap Hock, on account of a cleft in it. They are visible at a considerable di:?tance, bearing N. 5 E. and S. J W. from each other, and are connected under water by reefs, upon which the sea continually breaks. They are steep-tu and inac- cessible; and near them are 26 and 30 fathums, mud and clay. SEBUKO ISLAND (or Seboeko), N.N.E. a mile distant from Bezee, is not so high as the latter, and consists mostly of craggy hills. It is inhabited by natives of Enjah Bassa, who cultivate some pepper plantations. Its extent is 3i miles North and South, and about 3 miles East and West. Close to the East side of Sebuko is Beschutter Islet, which is high on the East side, has a reef on its South side, and forms with Sebuko a small bay, with 15 to 19 fathoms water, affording good anchorage for proas. A coral 176 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. rock, lying mid-channel between the East point of Sebuko and North point of Beschutter, renders it dangerous to enter this little bay from tlie north- ward with westerly gales; but there is a good road for large vessels in 11 and 13 fathoms, 1 or Ij mile from Sebuko, near the East side of Bes- chutter. Eeefs project from the numerous points of Sebuko, and in some places they either show above water, or the sea breaks over them, but they do not seem to extend far off, except from the West point, from which a reef stretches off nearly 2 miles ; it is very steep-to, but not dangerous, because the westernmost rock on it rises to a considerable height out of the water, and has a slight resemblance to Zeeklip. This rock lies W.N.W. from the South point of Sebuko; S.W. by W. i W. from its N.W. point; N. | E. from the West point of Bezee, and If mile from the West side of Sebuko. The Channel between Sebuko and Bezee Islands is not quite a mile wide, with soundings from 19 to 23 fathoms, hard sandy bottom; the passage northward of Sebuko, between it and the Tega Islets, is 1^ or 2 miles wide, and has 20 to 34 fathoms. A sandbank lies West \h mile from Tiga Isles, and N. by W. from the North end of Sebuko. HOG POINT, or Varkenshoek, Tanjong Toka, bearing S.E. by E. 7* miles from Cocua-nut Point, is the south-eastern extreme of Sutuatra, and between narrowest part of Sunda Strait, across which tlie Telok Betono; telegraph cable is carried to Anjer. The point has a round hilly appearance, and is easily distinguished when approaching it from the eastward ; but, coming from the westward, it has been mistaken for one of the Zutphen Islands. The soundings a mile distant from it are from 40 to 60 fathoms. it and Fourth Point on the Java coast, which bears S.E. ^ E. 13 miles, is the The ZUTPHEN ISLANDS front the coast of Sumatra to the north-east- ward of H(jg Point. Four of them are large, and the remainder are very small, the whole extending N.E. and S.W. about 4 miles, and within 2^ miles of the main. There are several shoals in the passage between them and the coast, amongst which there is said to be anchorage in some places. This passage is generally used by proas, and might be taken by large ships with a commanding breeze, there being sufficient depth of water, but great caution is recommeudud. The islands are steep-to on their South side, having 40 and 50 fathoms water very near them. Kandang, the south-westernmost island of the Zutphen Group, is about a mile long N.E. and S.W., and half a mile broad, of considerable height, and covered with large trees. Off its N.W. side aie two coral rocks, visible above water, and steep-to on their western sides. Near these rocks, on the N.W. side of Kandang, there is a small bay that affords a safe anchorage to proas in 11 or 12 fathoms water, close in-shore, and even large vessels would find ealety there; very often it is frequented by pirates. High and Kout Islands [high and woody islands), lying to the eastward of ZUTPHEN ISLES. 177 Kandang, are of considerable height, rocky, and covered with trees. They are about half the size of Kandang, the three islands being separated by narrow channels. Between Kandang and High Island is a small islet, with some cocoa-nut trees upon it. A reef of rocks lies 2 cables' lengths from the N.E., East, and S.E. sides of Hout Island, with 10 or 12 fathoms in the narrow gut between it and the island. The soundings eastward and south-eastward of Kandang, and High and Hout Islands are very deep, there being 40 to 50 fathoms a short dis- tance off' them. Cocoa-nut Island, lying westward of Kandang, is small, very low, and sur- rounded by a reef, which is very steep-to. The Brothers, two small islands lying to the northward of High and Hout Islands, are low and sandy, covered with small wood, and surrounded by a narrow but steep reef, with 15 and 18 fathoms water close-to. Hemoa Island, the northernmost and largest of the Zutphen Islands, is also the highest, being elevated 300 or 400 ft. above the sea. To the N.W. there is a low neck of land, which at 2 cables' lengths from the ground be- gins to rise ; the South end is the highest. Part of the low neck is a sandy beach, which atfords a good place for boats, it being very difficult to land anywhere else. Eemoa is covered with trees, large and small, as also are the other islands belonging to this group. The South side of Eemoa is fronted by a reef, partly above water, with a very narrow channel between it and the island ; it is called Boompjes Reef, and carries some small brushwood ; from its South point the N.E. point of Thwart-the-way bears S.E. ^ E. Fatal Islet and Eeef.— Close to the N.E. point of Eemoa is a high rocky islet, called Fatal, and from thence a reef projects to the North and N.W., on which is a separate cural rock, dry at low water, and all stretching otf about half a mile, with depths of 11 and 12 fathoms close to them, so that the lead gives but little warning. Erom the northern point of this reef the North point of Fatal Island is on with the Button ; and from its western edge the West point of Eemoa is on the West point of Kandang Island. Toempal Island, lying westward of Eemoa, is small, very low and woody, and sur- rounded by a reef, which is steep-to. South of Toempal, and nearly in mid-channel, are two steep coral rocks, with 2 or 3 ft. water upon them at oi'dinary tides, and sometimes dry. They lie in the line of the Boompjes Ee f and the N.E. point of Thwart-the-way in one, S.E. | E. A little further South lies a small but steep coral rock, sometimes dry at low water, from which Boompjes Eeef is on with theNortli point of the Button, E. by S. On account of the rapid currents experienced at times near the Zutphen lelands, in the westerly mousoou, ships oujjht not to approach their South I. A. 2 A 178 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. and S.E. parts nearer than U or U mile, particularly in passing Hont Island, where the current runs with great velocity, sweeping to the S.W. and W.S.W. round Hog Point. Lieut. Prins, in 1844, discovered an excellent anchorage for a dozen or more large vessels between Hog Point and the Zutphen Islands. He says, if in either of the monsoons a vessel cannot beat through, or is detained by calms cT currents, she may bring Kandang Island to bear N.E., and Sindo Island North, and to the westward of that line she may choose her berth in from 30 to 5 fathoms, sand ; and from thence the land wind will enable her on the following morning to pursue her voyage. Moreover, just to the westward of Sindo there is a small river, with good water, near Pagatau village. Vessels are strongly advised not to try the intricate and dangerous passage inside the Zutphen Islands, especially as there is no reliable chart of it yet published. The Channel between Thwart-the-way and the Zutphen Islands is but 3^ miles wide, and encumbered with two dangers, viz. : the Stroom Rocks off Thwart-the-way, and the Winsor Eoek off the Button. Owing to the great depth of water in it, 40 to 50 fathoms, it is not so convenient as the channel between Thwart-the-way and Java, where the depths being only 20 to 30 fathoms, much greater facility is afforded for anchoring in calms. The channel between Thwart-the-way and Sumatra is much frequented in the westerly monsoon by ships bound to the westward. STROOM ROCKS, lying N.N.W. i W., li mile distant from the West point of Thwart-the-way, are a group of three or four rocks very near each, other, with some of their tops visible above the sea at high water, and then only discernible in fiue weather at a short distance ; at other times they may be seen at a considerable distance by the breakers on the reef which connects them under water. They are steep-to, having 40 and 50 fathoms very near them. The currents which meet about here from the North and East are very strong, and with the opposite wind there is, near these rocks, such a boiling and eddying of the water all around, that it almost appears as if they are connected to Thwart-th.e-way, the light-coloured patches between them ap- pearing like rocks under water. Winsor Rock, on which the American ship Claudius, Capt. Winsor, struck in May, 1837, was examined by Lieut. B. Gr. Escher, D.R.N. From it the middle of the Button bears S.E. by E. | E., distant 1 J mile ; the S.E. point of Thwart-the-way, S.S.W. ^ W. ; its N.W. point, S.W. | W. ; and the South point of the southernmost Zutphen Island is just in one with the northernmost visible point of Bezee Island. The least water on it is 16 ft., the depths increasing suddenly in every direction. Other rocks were seen in the edd}' on the lee side of the rock. THE CUAST OF SUxMATRA. 179 The COAST of SUMATRA from the Z itphen Islands runs N.N.E. J E. for the distance of 3 miles to a point, not named on the charts, where it trends away to the northward. This part of the coast is fronted by rocks. Pulo Logok is a small but very high island, lying 1 mile North of the above-mentioned point, and 4 miles N. by E. from the Zutphen Islands ; the coast near it is rocky and steep. Lieut. Kolff found there 15 and 20 fathoms hard sand ; but further to the southward towards the steep point near the Zutphen Islands, a mud bank projects from the shore ; the lead is there a sure guide, for the bottom in 9 and 10 fathoms is hard, while in 7 and 6 fa- thoms it becomes soft. The Sisters {De Gezusters) are three small islands, lying about N. by E. 3 to 4^ miles from Logok Island. S.E. nearly a mile from them is a small reef with only 2 fathoms water, on which a ship was aground, with North Island bearing N. \ E., and the middle of the Sisters W.N. W. Another in the same predicament had the East point of North Island N. by E., and the outermost Sister N. by W. \ W. to N.W, It is, therefore, advisable to give the Sisters a berth of 2 miles, where irregular soundings of 16, 12, and 8 fathoms will be found. North Island, in lat. 5° 40^' S., long. 105° 50' W., is small, bushy, and a full mile distant from the coast of Sumatra. There is a small islet, called Sina, at its southern extremity ; and extending to the S.E. of it is a shoal of 3 J fathoms water. The island therefore requires a berth of at least 1^ mile; its North and S.W. sides are steep-to. Lieut. Riddle, E.N.R., recommends North Island as a suitable stopping- place during the westerly monsoon. He anchored his vessel in 13 fathoms, with North Island bearing N. by E. 2 miles distant, and found a deep ship channel between the island and the main ; but a spit, steep-to, extends 100 or 200 ft. from the N.W. end of the island. Between Sina Island and North Island is a narrow and deep channel, bounded on either side by coral reefs. The natives of North Island were friendly, and showed where the best water could be obtained : this was easily shipped, while at the same time at Anjer the surf was too violent to allow boats to come off with water. Between North Island and the Sisters the coast bends in a little, and is edged by a mud bank ; so that 2 miles from the shore will be found good soft ground for anchoring, in 8 to 12 fathoms, with North Island bearing N. by E. Small vessels will find good anchorage between the Sisters and the main, in 2 or 3 fathoms water. Abreast of the Sisters there is a fresh water spring, but Lieut. Kolff found its contents detrimental to the health of his crew, although it was clear, and free from any unpleasant taste. The Winds experienced in the Strait of Sunda have been briefly described on page 14. The Currents are also described on page 27. DIRECTIONS. — The brief instructions for passing along either coast of the 180 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. strait, before given, will be sufficient for passing it with a fair wind. The following is for the return voyage. Working out of the Strait ix the North-west Monsoon. — The best way is to pass between the Zutphen Islands and the Stroom Eock, and give the Zutphen a berth of at least 1} or 1^ mile on their eastern side, and beat up by short tacks along the coast of Sumatra between them and Hog Point. Afterwards, passing either North or South of the Tega Islets, as the strong currents and hard squalls may allow, try to get westing in Lampong Bay, to the northward of Tims Island, and to pass between it and Soengal, or through Lagoendy Strait. In this manner a ship will make a quick pas- sage through the strait, if the wind be not too variable, besides having the advantage of anchoring behind Sebuko Island, or in Lampong Bay, it the currents or winds are too strong. There are, however on record many instances of vessels having beaten out of the strait along the coast of Java, during the western monsoon, with more ease and celerity than could have been effected by stretching into Lampong Bay, in consequence of the westerly current having at those times developed its chief strength along the former side of the strait. It has been generally supposed that the currents at both ends of Java are regulated by the monsoons ; but, according to Captain M. H. Jansen, of the Dutch Royal Navy, who has had great experience in the Indian Archipelago, it appears that most part of the year a westerly current sets out of Sunda Strait. It is much to be wished that this important element in Indian navi- gation should no longer be left a matter of doubtful opinion. Some remarks on this subject will be found on page 54. CHAPTEE Y. EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND BANKA STRAIT. The EAST COAST of SUMATRA, between Sunda and Banka Straits, has never been regularly surveyed. The coast is generally low, and covered with wood to the water's edge, and does not therefore present much variation in aspect. It is fronted by some very extensive shoal banks, which in some places project 14 or 15 miles from the shore, but their exact boundaries are uncertain. The Winds of the Java Sea are described on pages 14 — 16 ante. The Currents in the Java Sea are for the most part influenced by the pre- vailing monsoon. They incline to the northward or southwai'd, according to the influence of the currents of the straits of Sunda, Banka, and Gaspar ; for during the western monsoon they run to the eastward, or more southerly according to the set of these which come from the straits ; and in the eastern monsoon they run to the westward or more northerly from a similar cause. Through a succession of tides which were observed, chiefly during the eastern monsoon, it was found that those which followed the direction of the monsoon were stronger and of longer duration, so that a daily allowance from 8 to 12 miles may be made in the eastern monsoon, and from 20 to 24 miles in the western monsoon. The COAST trends from abreast North Island with a slight curve inland, nearly North for 13 miles, to a point at which is the entrance of a small river named Nihonng. Two other rivers, the Sakampang and the Niale, also appear on the chart of this part of the coast. From the Nihoung Eiver, the coast line runs nearly straight, N. by W. for another 13 miles, where it forms a small bay, and from thence it assumes for a distance of 20 miles a rather irregular outline, in a general direction about N. by E. | E. to Tan- jong Supong. Mount Imbong, in lat. S'' 20^' S., generally described as, and sometimes named, Knoh Hill, is the most prominent hill on the coast near the Brothers, 182 EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. but the latter name tends to mislead. It is of low elevation, of ver^- gradual ascent, and clothed with trees. There is a hill to the N.W. of it, of hum- mock form. SHAHBUNDAR BANK and SHOALS.— Abreast of Mount Imbong and of Tanjong Supoug, the bank fronting the Sumatra shore projects about a mile only ; but between these points it stretches 10 miles in the direction of the Two Brothers ; the channel between the bank and those islands being about 6 or 7 miles wide. Upon the outer edge of the bank are several slioal patches, upon one of which the Dutch ship Shahhundar narrowly escaped destruction. As the depths decrease gradually towards this bank, the lead, if attended to, will indicate its proximity. From Tanjong Supong to a point l^ mile north-eastward of the river named Eali Saputi, the bearing is North a little easterly, and the distance 13 miles, the coast between forming a bight 3| miles deep. From thence the coast line runs N. J W. for 11 miles, and then a little more westerly for 11 miles further, to the large river Kali Tulang Bawang or Toelang. The hank, fronting the coast between Tanjong Supong and the entrance of the Kali Saputi, extends a little more than half a mile from the shore. The Kali Saputi, the mouth of which is in 4° 44' S., may be approached as near as 3 or 2 miles out. Tulang Bank. — Northward of the Kali Saputi, the extensive hard sand- bank of Tulang projects as far as 14 miles from the shore; but its South side, bending in to the northward, forms a kind of bay. Kali Tulang Bawang. — The mouth of this river, in 4° 21' S., may be closely approached. Near its entrance there is a small village ; and three days* journey up the river, according to the natives, is a town called Mmigala, where the Eajah resides. Pirates sometimes hide tliemselves there. The Coast from the Kali Tulang Bawang to Tree Island, 37 miles to the North, curves inland 3 or 4 miles, and about the middle of it is the mouth of the Eiver Masudyi. Tree Island is in about lat. 3° 41' S., and close to a point of land, to which it is joined at low water. From thence the coast curves round to a point N. by E., distant 17 miles; from which Lucipara Point, at the entrance of Banka Strait, bears about N.E. by N., distant 15 miles, the coast between forming a bight 3 miles deep. Between the Toelang and the Mesudji Rivers the bank extends from the shore about 3 miles only, but a little northward of the latter it again projects to the distance of 14 or 15 miles; from thence it edges away towards the coast in a N. by W. direction to about 7 miles northward of Tree Island, where it approaches the shore within 3 miles; it then runs N.E. for 16 or 17 miles, where its edge is 11 miles distant from the land; here it falls back again towards the coast, and takes a northerly direction to Lucipara Point, from which it projects but 2 miles. On this bank between the Mesudji WEST AND NORTH ISLANDS. 183 Eivpr and Lucipara Point, are many dangerous, and occasionally dry patches. Some of the dangers supposed to exist between the Thousand Islands and the Sumatra shore, known as the Dolphin, Antelope, Banterer, and Paulowna, were searched for in vain by Com^mander C. Bullock in H.M.S. Serpent (1865), and expunged from the chart. The position of the Lynn Bank, as well as that of the Coventry Reef, both of which uncover at low water, were accurately determined. The positions of several other dangers in this route were also rectified, but as no complete survey has been made, vessels navigating this locality are recommended to proceed with caution. Jason Rock, searched for in vain by Commander Buckle in 1865, was found about 2 miles out from its original position in 1870 by the master of the English ship Tewkeslury. It is described as 40 ft. in diameter, with 13 ft. least water and 10 fathoms around it. The Netherlands Gruvernment steamer Borneo afterwards examined it, giving the following bearings : — North Watcher, N. 40° E. ; Pulo Doea, S. 89° E. ; and W. Island or Pulo Pablo- kan, S. 62° E. Helens Rock. — The barque Helens, Captain Inkster, on a voyage from Bangkok to Melbourne, struck on a rock 6 miles E.N.E. of the position assigned to Jasan Rock. The lead was immediately hove, and got 5-^- fathoms in starboard gangway, and suddenly deepened to 10 and 15 fathoms. The bearing of several islands were as follows : — North Watcher, N. bv E. | E. ; West end of North Island, just open to the westward of Doea Island ; Ran- gat, S.E. by S. ; Peblakan, S. ^ E. WEST ISLAND, or Pulo Peblaken, in lat. 5°28J'S., long. 106° 23' E., is a quarter of a mile in length, and low, but the trees on it may be seen 13 or 14 miles from a vessel's deck. It is steep-to on all sides at half a cable dis- tant, except round its N.E. sandy point, off which a coral reef extends a quarter of a mile. COVENTRY REEF, of coral, dries at low water, and was seen always to break in the calmest weather. The shoalest part is S.S.W. 1 mile from West Island, and is about a cable in extent, but it appearpd to shelve off to the S.W. for a quarter of a mile, which would agree with the account given at the time of its discovery by the Caroline Coventry, in 1858. It is probably the same as that stated to have been seen by the Anna Paidoivna. Pulo Doea kept open West of West Island will clear it to the westward ; and Pulo Gosong Rangat in line with any part of North Island will clear it to the eastward. NORTH ISLAND and PULO DOEA, the two north-westernmost of the Thousand Islands, stand out very conspicuously from the group. They lie respectively N.E. by E. \ E. 6 J miles, and N.E. i E. 6 miles from West If-land. In the channel 1 mile wide between them, Mr. Roes, proprietor 184 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. of the Keeling Islands, reported a detached reef, which was seen breaking from the mast-head of the Serpent. It lies nearer to North Island. The NORTH WATCHER and LIGHTHOUSE.— The North Watcher js a narrow island, half a mile in length, the N.E. part covered with high trees, the S.W. part with low trees, visible in clear weather 18 or 20 miles off. A coral reef, with only 6 ft. water in some places, stretches about half a mile round the South end of the island, with a rock in one place above ■water. The ligJithouse on the North Watcher is a white iron tower, in lat. 5° 13' 30" North, lono-. 106° 26' 30" East. The light, first exhibited in June, 1869, is a bright light, revolving once in every minute, elevated 159 ft., and visible 20 miles off. The wreck of the War Eagle was reported in the last edition of this work to lie S.W. by W. 5 miles from the S.W. point of the North Watcher, in 12 fathoms, mud bottom, her topmast heads showing above water. A blue flag was placed on the main topgallant mast-head. She is alleged to have struck on a reef 2 miles to the N.W. of the North Watcher, for which a Netherlands vessel was sent to search. OMEGA ROCK, on which the American ship Omega struck in 1835, lies about E. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile from the North Watcher. According to her captain, it is composed of coral, about 150 to 200 yards in extent, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and about 60 or 70 yards broad, is steep-to, and has not more than 9 to 12 ft. on the shoalest parts. It should be given a wide berth by a vessel passing eastward of the North Watcher, from which it is separated by a narrovC channel with 11 and 12 fathoms water. EDELING SHOALS.— Between Pulo Doea and West Island lie some patches of rocky ground, named the Edeling Shoals, to avoid which it is recommended that vessels of heavy draught should not pass eastward of a line joining the two islands, unless South of Pulo Gosong Eangat, the small island surrounded by a sand beach, which lies 2f miles E.N.E. of West Island. These shoals consist of two coral patches East and West of each other, and half a mile apart. On the eastern shoal there may be as little as 3 fathoms at low water; on the western, 4J fathoms. They lie directly between Pulo Doea and Eangat ; from the latter they bear N.E. f N., and N.N.E. i E. 1 J and I5 mile respectively. There were found two other patches of 9 fathoms, and so many indications of sandstone bottom, that vessels should appi'oach this vicinity with caution. E. ^ N. from the South point of Peblakan or West Island, distant about 3^ miles, is a reef of coral and stone ; this reef extends about 1 cable North and South, and 2^ cables East and West. There is about 4 ft. water over the shoalest part, and from 4 to 5 fathoms around the reef; from it the ex- tremes of Kangat Island bore N.W. \ N. and N.W. by N. respectively. THE TWO BROTHERS— LYNN BANK. 185 A reef also, on which the sea breaks heavily, extends a distance of about 2 cables (by estimation) from the North and N.E. sides of Rangat Island. The TWO BROTHERS are low islands, which together extend 1 mile in a N. I E. direction. The North Brother is small and round, with high trees ; the South Brother is 4 cables long, and two of its trees are very high and conspicuous, and may be seen in clear weather 20 to 23 miles off. Broad coral reefs surround the South Brother ; round the North Island they are narrower. There is a passage between the islands 2 cables wide, carrying 7 to 5 fathoms over an apparently regular bottom. To the East of the islands is good anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms. The South point of the South Brother is in lat. 5° 10' 25" S., long. 106° 6' E.* SWALLOW ROCK.— In April, 1866, Mr. Wilds, Master Commanding H.M. surveying vessel Swallow, succeeded in finding the rock marked ou former charts at about 8 miles S.S.W. of the Brothers. Its position is in lat. 5° 17' 40" S., long. 106° 3' 50" E., the South Brother bearing N. 17° E. (true), distant 7f miles. There are only 22 ft. water on the rock, and vessels of heavy draught should be careful to give it a wide berth, as there was neither ripple, break, or swell over it to indicate its position. At half a mile S. by W. i W. from the rock, soundings in 5 fathoms were obtained on a small patch of sand and shells, with 9 fathoms between it and the rock. The depths around the rock and patch were 9 to 10 fathoms, sand. LYNN BANK is composed of coral, a cable's length in extent, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and half a cable in breadth, carrying general depths over it of 3 to * Doubtful Dangers. — The dangers said to lie in the track of vessels sailing direct between Sunda Strait and the North Watcher were searched for by the Serpent during several days. The hand and deep-sea leads were kept constantly going, and the sharp- ness of the mast-head man's eyesight was stimulated by the ofler of a reward for their discovery. A short time was also devoted to the Antelope and other shoals, reported to lie South and S.S.W of the Brothers, but nothing was seen of them. A 9-fathom bank of fine speckled sand was found 2\ to Z\ miles S. \ E. of the South Brother. This bank, which showed of a pale green colour, visible 2 miles, would prove at times a convenient an- chorage ; the Brothers just touching lead over the shoalest part. There are not more than 10 fathoms between this and the Brothers. The Dolphin Kock, on which the ship Dolphin was said to have been aground, was searched for by the Serpent during part of two days. It was described as nearly even with the water's edge, and to lie about 6 miles S.S.E. from the South end of the Two Brothers, but it does not appear ever to have been seen by any other vessel. The distance from the Brothers is precisely that of the Lynn Bank, and a change in the bearing from S.S.E. to E.S.E. (such an error being not an uncommon one), would make it the Lynn. If it were not for some indication of sandstone bottom, no credibility need be attached to the statement which records its existence. Pruisen Bank, sometimes placed in lat. 5' 17' S., long. 107° 9' E., does not exist, nor does there appear to be any authority whatever to place it in that position. 1. A. 2 B 186 EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 4 feet, with some rocks that dry at low water. There are 8 fathoms close to the rock, deepening to 13 and 14 fathoms at a cable's distance. It is in lat. 5° 12' S., long. 106° 12' E., and from it the North extreme of the North Brother bears N. 68° W. 6§ miles, and the South extreme of the South Brother, N. 77° W. These extremes of the islands subtend an angle of 9 degrees ; if, therefore, they be made, whilst passing on (or within a point or more of) the above bearings, to subtend an angle of 8°, a vessel will pass about a mile outside the bank ; and if an angle of 10°, half a mile inside it. In calm weather the shoal, from its dark colour, is extremely difficult to see until close upon it ; the above method as a safeguard will then be invaluable, and may be used with confidence. A sharp lookout should always be kept, as the shoal may only be detected by a slight ripple. At night it is recommended to close the Brothers and pass them at 1 to 2 miles. BROTJWERS REEFS are two dangerous coral shoals, separated about half a mile from each other, with a dry patch of sand and coral upon each. They are together a mile in extent, and a quarter of a mile in breadth, with depths of 4f to 15 fathoms in the swatch between them. Hard ground stretches out from their North and South ends ; at a short distance to the eastward and westward the bottom is soft, and the depths 1^ mile eastward are generally H|^ and 15 fathoms, regular soundings. The Serpent anchored near the N.E. part of these reefs. No astronomical observations were obtained, but the position of the North reef, by careful magnetic bearings, was made to be in lat. 5° 4f' S., long. 106° 15' E., the North Brother bearing S. 60° W., distant 10 miles, and the North Watcher S. 58° E., 15 miles. This is rather nearer the Brothers than the commonly received position. A vessel passing eastward of the Brouwers and Lynn Eeefs should keep nearer to the North Watcher than to the Two Brothers. The high moun- tain seen to the southward is Mount Karang, South of Anjer, and in lat. 6° 15' S., but from the above reef and islands the round hill over St. Nicho- las Point is more often visible, and is a good landmark. The latter is named Mount Agoeng on some charts, but is called by the Dutch Gedeh, and its height is 2,100 ft. Clifton Shoal. — The ship Clifton, of Bristol, is reported to have grounded, in November, 1850, on a shoal with 2 J fathoms on it, lying N. J W., 10^ miles from the Brothers. It is now marked on the Dutch charts with 1 8 ft. and 24 to 27 ft. to seaward, about 9 miles to the eastward of Cape Scopong or Supong, in lat. 4" 56' S., long. 106° 3' E. Comara, a shoal danger of doubtful existence, with 7 fathoms close-to, placed on the Dutch Government charts about 9 leagues to the N.W. of the North Watcher, and 7 leagues from the coast of Sumatra, in lat. 4° 49' 30" South, long. 106° 14' 30" East. BANKA STRAIT. 187 Ocean Mail, marked on the Dutch Grovernment charts with 18 ft. and 7 and 8 fathoms all round, is situated 11 leagues to the eastward of the Toelang River, in lat. 4° 18' S., long. 106° 26' E. A patch of hard ground, about 2 miles in extent, having but 4^ fathoms least water over it, appears on the chart in lat. 4° 11' S., long. 106° 8' E. The soundings around it are irregular, 6 to 1 1 fathoms on the East side, and 6 to 9 on the West. Arend Bank, in lat. 3° 45' S., long. 106° 16' E., is 2 miles in length, and the same in breadth, consisting of fine gray sand and broken shells. It has 4^ to 6 fathoms water over it, and is surrounded by a depth of 6 fathoms, which rapidly increases, over a soft bottom. Boreas Bank lies E. by N. 11^ miles distant from the Arend Bank, in lat. 3° 44' S., long. 106° 27^' E. It is also composed of a fine gray sand, and the least water upon it is 5 fathoms. Around it the depth increases rapidly to 10 and 13 fathoms, except on the N.W. side, where the soundings are regular for some time with 5 and 6 fathoms. Between the Arend and Boreas Banks there are irregular depths of 8 to 14 fathoms. City of Carlisle Patch. — A ship of this name, in 1861, reported a patch of 16 ft. to exist in lat. 3° 46' S., long. 106° 20' E., or S.W. by W. * W., 3^ miles from the Boreas Bank. Its North end is now marked on the charts in lat. 3° 27' S., long. 106° 24^' E., whence the bank extends 2^ miles to the S.E., with 5 and 4 J fathoms. Caution. — Vessels in this neighbourhood unexpectedly shoaling their water at night ought to be very careful, for many that considered themselves to be upon these banks were in fact upon those off the coast of Sumatra, near Tree Island, and consequently in great danger. These two banks consist of fine gray sand, while those near Tree Island are of coarse sand with gravel. The depths in that part of the sea which lies between the North Watcher, Two Brothers, and Lucipara, are, except the banks of Comara, Ocean Mail, Arend and Boreas, tolerably regular from 10 to 16 fathoms; but nearer to Sumatra, about 22 or 24 miles from the coast, they become irregular, chang- ing often, and suddenly, from 10 to 5 and 6 fathoms. Towards Lucipara, in the usual track towards Banka Strait, the water shoals gradually to 6 and 4 A fathoms. BANKA STRAIT. General Description. — The Strait of Banka separates the islands of Banka and Sumatra, and trends with many bondings to the north-westward. In the ensuing account of it we have followed entirely that given in the China Sea Pilot, as the features of this important passage have been carefully and recently surveyed by our officers. 188 BANKA STEAIT. The coast of Sumatra is very low, densely covered with wood, and offers no other variation than a few points, or rather roundings, which are only clearly distinct at short distances, and are easily mistaken for the so-called false points, which are observed immediately after rounding the real points. The shore being inundated at high flood, the distance from it is generally over estimated. The Island of Banka is covered with hills and mountains, varying from 930 to 2,320 ft. in height ; and it is remarkable that, notwithstanding their comparatively small heiglit, their summits are generally covered with clouds, whifh accounts for the erroneous heights given to these hills by various authors, who have estimated them at upwards of 9,000 ft. On the Banka Coast are prominent points, sandy beaches, and in some places deep bights, as on the Sumatra side ; as a rule, wherever sand occurs casuarina trees will be found ; the other trees are principally pine, teak, and aspen. Near the western point of Banka stands the capital of the colony (or residency) of that name, called Mintok, and its roadstead is much visited by the coasters that supply the Chinese miners with rice. The whole coast of Sumatra is bordered by a mud flat, which is narrower off the points, but in some of the bights from 2 to 4 miles wide. Towards the Banka side the bottom becomes gradually harder, and even rocky. Besides the few small islets and rocks in this strait, there are the group of Nangka Islands, where vessels sometimes proceed to procure fresh water and wood. Many rivers discharge themselves into the strait, of which the principal are the Soensang and the Assing, both navigable to a great distance for vessels of heavy burden. The entrance to Banka Strait is encumbered with numerous long and narrow banks of sand, having various depths of water over them, and deep channels between. Only two of these channels, however, are available for the ordinary purposes of navigation, as it is not possible to give any direc- tions which would enable vessels to use the others with safety ; but in the event of a vessel from accident or other cause finding herself amongst the banks, she would be enabled, by careful attention to the Admiralty Chart, to extricate herself without much difficulty.* Until the survey of this strait by Mr. "W. Stanton, assisted by Mr. J. W. Eeed, Masters E.N., in H.M.S. Saracen, during the years 1859 and 1860, * Caution — Buoys and Beacons. — The Captain of the French transport La Correze reports, in 1873, several of the beacons and buoys in Banka Strait as out of position, while others have disappeared. Captain F. G. Petersen, also, in a letter to the " Nautical Magazine " of February, 1875, says — " In the Admiralty charts are mentioned a lot of beacons and buoys, ■which can never be seen in reality. I saw only one buoy in the whole strait on the Fredrik Hendriks Rock. In the same charts are many conspicuous trees mentioned, which are all or most of them gone. On the points of Sumatra should be some beacons and fishing stakes, but anything of them was not to be seen. TIDES AND CUEEENTS. 189 very little was known of the banks at its entrance. The Dutch had published a chart compiled from the observations of the officers of the Dutch men-of- war employed at various times on the station, which furnished a pretty cor- rect outline of the coasts on both sides the strait, and showed the positions of the prominent dangers in the fairway, but the soundings on it were very imperfect, and the space eastward of Lucipara, occupied by the numerous long narrow sandbanks above referred to, was almost a blank. The ordinary route of vessels up to the time of the Sara<:en\ survey, was through the Lucipara Channel, between the Island of Lucipara and the Coast of Sumatra ; but the advantages which a navigable channel along the coast of Banka Island would offer to vessels passing through Banka Strait had been long felt by seamen, and Melvill Van Carnbee, in the Java Guide, re- marks upon this want as follows : — " The passage between Lucipara and Banka would have great advantages in entering or leaving the Strait of Banka, were it not encumbered so much with shoals and banks, the positions of which are not known correctly, and which render this passage unsafe, at least for large vessels, although Com- modore Watson took the Revenge by night to the eastward of Lucipara, into the Strait of Banka, and had not less than b^ fathoms water. For vessels of light burden and beating up against the western monsoon, this eastern channel into the strait is very desirable, as it is almost impossible to make any progress against the strong and continual currents in the Lucipara passage." During the Saracenh survey, an excellent passage, now named Stanton Channel, nearly 5 miles wide in its narrowest pai't, and with depths varying from 7 to 20 fathoms, was found between Lucipara and Banka. Mr. Stanton gives the following reasons for preferring this channel to the old one between Lucipara and Sumatra. " The Stanton Channel will be found to possess many advantages over that of Lucipara, for it is a mile wider, the approaches to it are marked by well-defined hills on Bmka Island, and a vessel of the largest draught may pass through it at any time of tide ; whereas vessels frequently get on shore in using the latter channel, for the coast of Sumatra, consisting of low muddy mangrove shores about 50 or 60 ft. in height, is unmarked by a single con- spicuous object to assist the seaman to clear the mud flat bordering its entire length, and which a few miles southward of Lucipara Point extends 1 1 miles from the land. The island of Lucipara also is small, about half a mile in length, and no marks can be given to avoid the rocks extending a consider- able distance to the southward and eastward of it. " The water also in the Stanton Channel being much deeper than in the Lucipara, causes the banks, which are mostly of sand, to be easily recog- nized by the light colour of the water on them. The tide also ebbs and flows more regularly in this channel, and sets directly through it, which enables 190 BANK A STRAIT. vessels even in calms to drop through ; whereas in light winds and calms they are often set over amongst the dangerous banks whilst rounding First Point in endeavouring to get through the Lucipara Channel. •* The wind in the N.W. monsoon blows off the Banka coast, and through- out the year land breezes generally occur during the night. A strong land wind from the N.E. has been experienced in the Stanton Channel during the S.E. monsoon, when the wind was blowing directly through the Lucipara from the S.W. " There is also but little variation in the depth of water between th© Sumatra coast and the Lucipara shoals; and it is stated that during the months of January, February, and March, when the N.W. monsoon is at its full strength, the southern current continues from 14 to 18 hours successively, with a velocity of 2 to 2 J knots, which would make it almost impossible for an indifferent sailer to make any progress against it. It is also said that during the latter part of the S.E. monsoon, it frequently blows hard from the S.W., accompanied with much rain ; this would considerably retard vessels going to the southward through the Lucipara Channel, and offer a fair wind to those proceeding through the Stanton Channel. TIDES and CURRENTS. — The tides in Banka Strait are strong, but irre- gular, and are greatly influenced by the monsoons. The flood-tide, entering the strait from the southward out of the sea of Java, meets another flood, about the Nangka Islands, coming from the northward out of the China Sea. The direction of the streams is entirely influenced by the windings of the strait, forming, at their meeting, whirls and eddies in the bights of the land. In the Lucipara Channel and the southern parts of the strait, sometimes there are two, but generally only one 6bb and flood in the 24 hours, the former running to the southward and the latter running to the northward. During the months of January, February, and March, at the greatest strength of the N.W. monsoon, the southern current continues often from 14 to 18 hours successively, with a velocity of from 2 to 3 J knots ; the flood-tide is then very trifling, and sometimes not at all perceptible. On the contrary, during the S.E. monsoon, the stream of flood runs sometimes 14 to 18 hours with great velocity into the strait, and the ebb runs out during the other 10 or 8 hours with but little strength. In the northern parts of the strait during the N.W. monsoon the southern current or flood remains longer and is stronger than the ebb, and the reverse during the eastern monsoon. The velocity of the tide is sometimes 2 or 2^ knots, and the range from 7 to 12 ft., and sometimes more; and in the mouth of the rivers the water during the western monsoon, from the heavy rains which prevail at that period, is much higher than during the eastern monsoon. Between the monsoons flood and ebb succeed each other generally every TIDES AND CUERENTS. 191 1 2 hours, and the one or the other is then stronger, according to the -wind being northward or southward. The rise of an ordinary tide is 5 to 7 ft., and a spring tide 9 to 10 ft., and sometimes 12 ft.; but the average rise seems to be much, greater during the eastern monsoon than during the western one. Mr. Stanton observes, that on the Sumatra shore, when the monsoon is blowing strong, a constant surface current will be found setting to leeward, and extending nearly mid-channel, except between Fourth and Batakarang Points, where it is influenced by the numerous branches of the Palembang Eiver. On the coast of Banka, owing to the formation of the land, more regular tides will be found ; therefore, ships in working should only keep on the Sumatra side between Batakarang and Fourth Points, and when Tanjong Tadah bears N.E. f N., work along the Banka coast, as by so doing, and leaving either extremity of the strait at low water, they may carry a fair tide all the way through, and generally have the advantage of a land wind at night. Throughout the strait, a difference of 12 hours in the tides was observed in the opposite monsoon. It is high water, full and change, in the S.E. monsoon about 8^ 30" p.m., but in the N.W. monsoon high water takes place at nearly the same time in the morning. Eddies in the Bights. — When beating through the middle of the strait during the strength of the monsoons, continuous and contrary currents are certain, and the skilful seaman will therefore find great advantage in avail- ing himself of the eddies, as well as of the more regular changes of tide, by standing into the bights and bays in those parts of the strait where he can safely approach the land. Inshore Tides. — In the Toboe AH Channel, also in the bay North of the Nangka Islands, and in the passage between Brom-Brom Eeef and Banka, we meet, even in the western monsoon, a pretty regular succession in the roadstead tides. It has been often observed, when passing the road of Mintok, that the vessels were lying with their heads in a contrary direction to those at anchor upon the bank outside. In that road the flood comes from the westward, and the ebb from the eastward ; but near the mouth of the Assing Eiver the contrary occurs ; the flood there runs West, and the ebb East. In the bays between Eerste and Tweede Points, and again be- tween Derde and Vierde Points, there are probably eddies of which vessels of light burden may make use, and heavier vessels may no doubt, in many places, run close enough to the shore to keep out of the influence of the currents. Freshes. — Between Bata-karang and Fourth Points the ordinary current in Banka Strait, after heavy rains, is considerably accelerated and diverted in the direction of Kalian Point, until it nearly reaches mid-channel, by 192 BANK A STRAIT. the freshes from the many rivers in this vicinity. Vessels sometimes take advantage of this to complete water, as it is frequently quite fresh on the surface. During the westerly monsoon, which is the rainy season, these freshes set out of the rivers on the Sumatra coast with great force, and they require to be carefully guarded against in the night. Upon one occasion, when H.M.S. Saracen was at anchor near Lalarie Point, her decked pinnace, moored at the boom, was fairly pressed under the water and swamped by the force of the current. LUCIPARA ISLAND, half a mile long, W.N.W. and E.S.E., and a quarter of a mile broad, lies at the southern entrance of Banka Strait, 9 miles East of Lucipara Point, in lat. 3° 13' S., long. 106° 13' E., and is visible in clear weather at 14 or 15 miles. It is surrounded by a reef, which from its S.E. end extends rather more than 1^ mile ; and around this reef is a bank, with 2^ and 3 fathoms over it, extending about 1^ mile to the north- westward from the island, and 2 miles to the south-eastward of it. Formerly, the trees on the S.E. end of the island rose to a sort of peak 164 feet high, but all the trees on this peak have been cut down (1875). Rocky Patches. — Lucipara should not be approached on its S.E. side nearer than 3i miles, for a rocky patch with 2^ fathoms water over it lies S.E. by E. i E., distant nearly 2 J miles from the island; and a mile to the westward of this patch is another of 2f fathoms. LUCIPARA POINT, which forms the south-western limit of Banka Strait, is in lat. 3° 13^' S., long. 106° 3' E. It is covered with trees, the tops of the highest being 89 ft. above the level of the sea. The COAST between Lucipara and First Points is formed of mangrove jungle, and was found in the survey of 1859 to extend considerably more eastward than shown in the Dutch chart. This extension has evidently taken place since their survey in 1818, and it may be attributed to the sedi- ment from the numerous small rivers in that vicinity affording more soil for the growth of the prolific mangrove. The contour of the dry mud was ob- tained and sounded close-to at the springs, and it will be a guide to show any further extension. Green Point, so called from the trees on it being of a lighter and brighter green than elsewhere, bears N. ^ W., distant 9 miles from Lucipara Point, the coast between forming a bight about 1|^ mile deep. Between these points is a ridge of high trees standing about 1^ mile back from the coast line, with a conspicuous tree, 153 ft. high, near their centre. EERSTE, or Pirst Point, bears N. J W., distant 4^ miles from Green VALSCHE EERST— TWEEDE POINT. 193 Point, the coast between fornaing a bight. The trees on it are of equal height, 60 ft., and present a level appearance. Mud Bank. — From the southward the coast line approaches Lucipara Point in a north-easterly direction ; but the 3-fathoms line, which may be considered the edge of the mud-bank which fronts the whole coast of Suma- tra, from a distance of 10 or 12 miles southward of the point, approaches it nearly straight in a N. by W. direction, and passing Lucipara Point about 2 miles off, follows, with a slight curve in towards the coast, the same general direction until abreast of Green Point, from which, it extends a little over a mile ; it then takes a direction a little more westerly until abreast of the South part of First Point, from which it is distant three-quarters of a mile. In rounding First Point, the bank approaches nearer to it, and on its N.E. side projects only about a quarter of a mile from the shore. From 10 or 11 miles to the southward of Lucipara Point, to within 2 miles of Grreen Point, the soundings decrease regularly towards the bank ; but just to the southward of, and fronting Green Point, the water shoals sud- denly from 6 to 3 fathoms ; and, therefore, this part of the flat should never be approached into less water than 7 fathoms. Near First Point the bank is also steep-to, especially on the N.E. side, and should not be approached under 12 or 10 fathoms, those depths extending to the distance of 1 to 1^ mile off the point. The COAST from First Point takes a N.W. by W. f W. direction for 6f miles to False First Point, having a small bight or indentation between, at about two-thirds of that distance from First Point. From False First Point it falls back S.W. by W., about 3 miles, and then forming a deep bay, gradually curves round to a slight point (False Tweede Point of the Dutch), from whence it runs pretty straight about N. J W. for 7 miles to Tweede or Second Point. VALSCHE EERST, or False First Point.— The trees upon this point are more elevated than those on First Point, being 105 ft. high. Lalarie Point, on the Banka side, bears from it N. ^ W. nearly 7^ miles, and Second Point N.W. i N. 18^ miles. The mud-bank projects two-thirds of a mile from False First Point, and more than 3 miles from the shore in the depth of the bay between that point and Second Point. The bank is very steep close-to, and should not be ap- proached under a depth of 12 fathoms near the points, nor under 10 fdthoms in the bight between them. TWEEDE, or Second Point, the trees on which are 81 ft. high, bears from First Point N.W. i N. 21^ miles, and from Lalarie Point N.W. | W. 13 miles. From this point the coast falls back, and curves round until within 5 miles of Third Point, forming a bay about 5 miles deep ; it then runs nearly straight to Third Point. I. ▲. So 194 BANKA STEAIT. The mud-bank extends about two-thirds of a mile from Second Point, and being very steep-to should not be neared under a depth of 12 fathoms. Between Second and Third Points it runs very nearly straight from point to point, filling up the bay. The soundings here do not, as a general rule, shoal so suddenly as they have been described to do between the other points, but at 2 or 3 miles South of Third Point the bank curves out consi- derably, and is dangerous to strangers, particularly when coming from the northward, as they are likely to infer that the bank falls back in the direction of the land. The depths, too, here again begin to shoal suddenly, adding to the danger, so that it is necessary to exercise caution and give a good berth to this part of the bank. A Spit or Horn extends 1^ mile from the above mud flat, and then in a south-easterly direction for 2 miles, with depths from 2J to 3 fathoms, mud, on it, and from 4 to 5 fathoms between it and the flat ; from its northern extreme Second Point bears S.S.E. 8 miles, and Parmassang Peak E. by S. 12^ miles ; therefore in passing this spit. Second Point should not be brought eastward of S. by E. f E. until Parmassang Peak bears E.S.E. Doubtful Patch. — There is said to be as little as 4 fathoms over muddy bottom, with Little Nangka Island bearing North, and the middle of Par- massang Hill East. DERDE, or Third Point, bearing N.N.W. f W. 20J miles from Second Point, is 78 ft. high, and has on its North side a square beacon, with a white top and ball. From this point the coast runs back about W.S.W. for 2 miles to the entrance of a small river, named Songi Kisoegean, which, from native information, is said to connect with a branch of the Palembang River ; from thence it curves round in a West and W.N.W. direction for 4 or 5 miles, and then assumes a tolerably straight outline until within 3 or 4 miles of Fourth Point, which it approaches in a N.W. by W. ^ W. direction. The mud-bank does not extend more than half a mile off Third Point, but is very steep-to, and should not be approached under three-quarters of a mile, or in less than 15 to 13 fathoms water. Between Third and Fourth Points the bank runs pretty nearly straight, the edge of it being distant from 1 to H J^il© ivovtx the shore, except in front of the bight just to the westward of Third Point, where it is 2 miles distant from the shore. The soundings between Third and Fourth Points are irregular, but vessels may, with careful attention to the lead, stand towards the mud-bank into 7 or 6 fathoms, until nearly abreast of Fourth Point, where the bank gets steeper, having 10 fathoms close-to, and only 8 fathoms a little further off. Four-and-Three-quarters Fathoms Bank. — A mud-bank, about 2 miles in length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and having 4| fathoms water over it, lies between Third and Fourth Points, about two-thirds of the dis- tance from the former, and nearly 3 miles from the shore ; between this bank VIERDE, OR FOURTH POINT. 195 and the edge of the mud flat extending from the shore, is a channel about three-quarters of a mile broad, with 7 to 9 fathoms water in it. VIERDE, or Fourth Point, bears from Third Point W. J N. distant 23i miles. The trees upon it are 112 ft. high; and a square beacon, with white top and ball, stands, or used to stand, at the edge of the mangrove. The coast from Fourth Point stretches westward for 22 or 23 miles, and in this space the different branches of the Palembang River fall into the strait. Banks off Fourth Point. — A bank of sand and shells, having 4f to 6 fa- thoms water over it, lies 4 miles off Fourth Point. It is 3 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., about 1:^ mile broad, and from its western extreme the beacon on Fourth Point bears S. by W. I W. 3 miles, and from its eastern extreme the beacon bears S.W. by W. | W. 4 miles. Between it and the mud-bank extending from the shore are from 7 to 9 fathoms. Another patch, about a mile in extent, and having 6 fathoms water over it, lies nearly 2 miles north-eastward of the last-mentioned bank, with the beacon on Fourth Point bearing S.W. J S. 6J miles, and the dry rocks on the Brom-Brom Reef N.E. by N. 3 miles. Between these banks the depths are from 8 to 14 fathoms. The Mud Bank from Fourth Point takes a W.N.W. direction for 18 miles, where it trends away near South, forming one side of the entrance to the Soengsang River ; a spit projecting from the land forms the other side of the entrance to that river, as also the S.E. side of the entrance to the River Assing. Caution. — This bank, for 6 miles westward of Fourth Point, is composed of hard sand, covered with a thin stratum of soft mud, and is exceedingly dangerous, being steep-to, and many ships, including H.M.Ss. Himalaya and Assistance, have grounded upon it. The lead cannot at all be relied upon for giving warning in time to avoid it, for 1 1 fathoms may be had, and the ship be aground the next instant. The safest plan is not to pass the beacon on Fourth Point within 3 miles, and having passed it not to bring it to the eastward of S.E. ^ S. until Monopin Hill bears North. From 10 to 12 fathoms will be obtained very close to this steep bank, out- side of which is a long strip of 8 and 9 fathoms ; outside of this strip are 10 to 13 fathoms, so that it is not at all possible for a vessel to discover her position by the lead only. The soundings, however, become more regular off the mouths of the Palembang Rivers, and towards and abreast Bataka- rang Point the lead will in those localities, if properly attended to, enable a vessel to proceed with ease and safety, as the soundings decrease regularly towards the shore. Great care, however, is requisite in navigating this part of the strait during the rainy season, for large drifts are then brought down these rivers by the freshes, which set strong over to the West end of Banka ; and as the 196 BANKA STRAIT. flood runs strong into them on the springs, a vessel may be driven too near either shore, both sides of which are fronted by dangers. SUMATRA EIVERS. — To the westward of Fourth Point are the entrances of the Elvers Saleh and Oepan, then the Soensang, and lastly the Assing ; the last two are navigable for vessels of light draught as far as Palembang. SOENGSANG or PALEMBANG RIVER.— Mr. Stanton has furnished the following account of this river and town: — Since the survey of the N.W. part of Banka Strait in 1860, a deeper and more direct entrance to the main channel of this river has been formed, carrying 9 ft. at low, or 22 ft. at high water springs. This new entrance is marked with beacon poles, similar to those in the old passage, but as, on account of the many floating trees and strong freshes, they will probably not remain long in their position, a vessel of large draught may safely enter at high water by bringing the trees forming the West point of the river entrance S. by W. f W., and running for them on that bearing until Pulo Payong (Umbrella Island) bears South ; then steer for the island, but take care in approaching it to keep close to the eastern bank of the river, to avoid the spit extending 2 miles off its North end. If a pilot is required, one may be obtained at Kampong Soengsang, the small village on the left bank, but there is no channel available for ships ou the West side of Payong. This branch of the Soengsang at its entrance is upwards of a mile wide, but within, the navigable channel is contracted in some places to the width of a cable's length by the different islands and banks, until close up to the town of Palembang, when the river widens to three-quarters of a mile with 6 and 6 fathoms close to the shore. Vessels can navigate the whole length of the river up to the town by keep- ing close to the right bank ; but those of large draught are recommended, when passing Pulo Singris and the bank off Kampong Maya, to keep near the opposite shore. Both sides of the river are wooded, and on nearly all the isolated banks there are small trees, and on others fishing slakes, conse- quently there will not be much difficulty in avoiding them. PALEMBANG, one of the largest Malay towns in the Archipelago, and the largest in Sumatra, derives its name from the many bridges across the numerous creeks that intersect it. A Dutch resident and other officials reside here, and to support their authority there is a military force, con- sisting of one European and two native companies. The total number of Europeans in the town is 109, and by the last census the native population. consisted of 45,000 Malays, 4,000 Chinese, and 1,000 Arabs. The climate in the vicinity is considered so salubrious that convalescent soldiers are sent here from Banka. Near the extreme end of the town, commanding the mouth of the Ogan Eiver, is a substantially built fort. It is a square enclosure of masonry, ASSING OE SALT EIVER. 197 with walls 8 ft, thick, about 50 ft. high, loop-holed, and at each angle a circular bastion mounting eight guns in casemate embrasures. The fort could easily accommodate 1,500 men, and is surrounded outside with strong wooden palisades, a thick bamboo hedge, and a ditch 20 ft. broad. The fort is in lat. 2° 59i' S. There are several smaller forts some distance up the river. Covered prahus (called bedahs) daily arrive from the interior, laden with large supplies of cotton for exportation. This useful article grows quite wild some distance up the river, in some places close to the stream, and covering many miles of land. The greater portion of it is sent to Batavia. The total quantity exported this season is estimated at 1,735,500 lbs. All the necessaries of life are here found in abundance. The country abounds in large game, deer, wild pigs, &c. The river swarms with fish. Beef, fruit, vegetables, &c., are cheap and plentiful. Foreign vessels are not permitted to trade, and Dutch European vessels are not allowed to enter the river unless under special circumstances. The export trade, consisting principally of pepper, rattans, cotton, honey, dye-woods, and gutta-percha, is confined to thirteen European built ships, and numerous country craft, all owned by wealthy natives. Erom November to March rains prevail, and the wind varies from N.W. to N.E. At this period vessels belonging to Palembang either remain ia port or trade to other places, as it is almost impossible for sailing vessels at this period to make any progress up the river against the freshes. During a stay of five days off the town in January, the influence of the flood was not once felt. The ebb slackened during the day, but at night it often ran 5 knots. After much rain the freshes out of the river are felt in Mintok Bay. ASSING or SALT EIVER offers the best passage to Palembang, being at ail times navigable for vessels of the heaviest burden, but the shallow at its entrance often causes a delay of several days. At its mouth, which was surveyed in the beginning of 1846, Monopin Hill bears N.E. by E., and Assing Point N.W. by N. At the entrance, in mid-channel, there are 8 to 10 fathoms ; and close to the poles at the back on the eastern side of the channel from 4 to 5 fathoms. Higher up this river the Pontain and Jarang Channels are just as good as that through the Soensang. Directions. — To enter the Assing, bring Monopin N.E. by E., and Teloo Point N.W. by N., then steer in a S.W. direction, according to the state of the tide, for the ebb runs strongly over the very shallow outer bank towards Soensang, and the flood towards the inner banks. Having reached as far as Api Point, take the mid-chaanel, between the beacon-poles, towards Bayan Point, and then, though still following the middle of the river, keep rather towards the Laga Point side, round which the Pontian Channel is entered. With a flood tide keep on the eastern 198 BANKA STEAIT. shore, as the stream runs with force past that channel ; taking care, at the same time, to avoid the shoals which surround the point. In this river we have only to mind the points, as from most of them project small mud banks. Pontian and other Affluents. — The juntion of the rivers Pontian, Kietjar, Gassing, and Sebalick, which last unites the Pontian to the Jarang, causes a part of the ebb to run from the first two rivers through the Sebalick, and compels vessels having come so far with the flood to anchor, and to wait for the ebb. The Pontian is generally deepest on its western side, except near its mouth, where the greatest depth is in the middle ; but again towards the western side, higher up, and in front of the shoal off the point, between the Kietjar and the Sebalick. When near its junction with the Sleino and Jarang Rivers, keep close to the eastern shore, in 6 to 8 fathoms, to avoid the reef which projects from the point between the Sebalick and Jarang. When there is no wind, it is necessary to anchor and wait for the flood coming up by the Sleino, in order to proceed up the Jarang, and it will be found that a great part of the flood goes into the Tambangadin Eiver, while that going up the Jarang is very trifling. Having reached the Jarang Ketjil, anchor again till high water, to wait for the ebb from this river, which will soon take the vessel into the Soengsang. Jaraxg Bank. — The bank off the Jarang is very shallow, but on the North side there is a narrow passage with 5 or 6 fathoms. Vessels of less draught than 15 ft. can also find a passage on the South side. The AssiNG, always navigable. — The difficulties in going up the Assing, caused by the narrowness of the rivers Pontian, Sebalick, and Jarang, and the necessity of stopping so often to wait for the tide, are amply compensated by the advantage that vessels of even the greatest burthen suffer no delay at its mouth. Freshes. — Vessels navigating these rivers, especially during the western monsoon, should be aware that the heavy rains in the interior cause such strong freshes to run out of the river as to reach towards the opposite shore, and that in the spring, especially during the eastern monsoon, very powerful floods pour into the rivers. High up the rivers are seen ripplings like breakers, caused by these tides and freshes, which frequently bring down large detached masses of grass and brushwood like floating islands. BATAKARANG POINT, the N.W. boundary of Banka Strait, is in lat. 2° r S., long. 104° 50' E., and bears N.W. f W. 32 miles from Fourth Point. It may be known by a group of trees, 130 ft. high, which gives it a bluff and jagged appearance. Valsche or False Point is more sloping and flat, and lies 9 miles to the south-eastward of Batakarang Point ; and there is another point about 3 miles in the same direction from Batakarang Point. The mud-bank projects 4^ miles off Batakarang Point, and 2 miles off COAST OF BANKA— TANJONG BAGINDA. 199 False Point. It then trends away to the south-westward, bounding the entrance of the Assing Eiver on its N.W. side, to Tanjong Kampie, from which it projects not quite a mile. The soundings off Batakarang Point are regular, and the point may be passed in from 6 to 4| fathoms water. COAST OF BANKA.— This coast, which separates the straits of Banka and Gaspar, is treated of here, as being intimately connected with the former, for Mr. Stanton observes, that at the entrance of Banka Strait, in the S.E. monsoon, the ebb tide during the night at springs will be found setting to the south-eastward ; consequently many vessels, although steering a course for the strait, get set between Pulo Dapur and Baginda Point. The SOUTH COAST, between Baginda Point and the Dapur Islands, in extent about 14 miles E. f N. and "W. | S., is generally low, and covered ■with trees ; it presents, however, some points sloping down from hills of moderate elevation. It should not be approached under 3 miles, for it is fronted with a mud-bank, extending in places nearly 2 miles from the shore, upon which are many rocks above, and many others below water. TANJONG BAGINDA, the south-eastern extreme of Banka, is in lat. 3° 4' 40" S., long. 106° 44' E. It slopes gradually in a south-easterly direc- tion from a hill 387 ft. high, which rises a mile inside the point. Two miles inside the point, in a NW. by W. J W. direction, is another hill, named Baginda Peak, 521 ft. high. Tanjong Dua {Doeija) bears W. by S. J S. 2J miles from Baginda Point, from which it is separated by a bay about half a mile deep. N.N.W. 1^ mile from the point is a hill, 432 ft. high, from which the land slopes down to the coast. Eocks, some of which are above water, extend to the southward of this point and for more than a mile along the coast to the westward, to the dis- tance of half a mile. A sand-bank, with rocky patches, commences about 1^ mile S.S.E. i E. from it, and extends to the westward until it meets the mud -bank which fronts the coast as far as Tanjong Tan ah Eoboe. Tanjong Kejang is 231 ft. high, and bears West-southerly 2f miles from Tanjong Dua, from which it is separated by a sandy bay about two-thirds of a mile deep. Karang Layar is a rocky reef above water, lying on the outer edge of the bank above mentioned, and S.W. by W. distant If mile from the East ex- treme of Tanjong Kejang, Inside these rocks to the north-westward is another bed of rocks, some of which are above water. Tanjong Bantil, 240 ft. high, bears W. by N. 2J miles from the nearest part of Tanjong Kejang. The bay between these points seems to be full of rocks ; and large and small rocks above water, with others awash, extend to the southward of the point, nearly to the edge of the mud-bank, which projects neai'ly a mile off shore. 200 BANKA STEAIT. Tanjong Tanah Roboe is 3-J- miles W. by S. ^ S. from Tanjotig Bantil, and off it, as at Tanjong Bantil, a number of rocks, some above and others below water, project nearly a mile to the southward to the edge of the bank ; the bank curves round this point, and terminates just to the westward of it. Dapur Point. — The coast from Tanjong Tanah Eoboe runs West about a mile, and then, curving to the north-westward into a small bay about half a mile deep, runs about S.W. by W. with a rugged outline to Dapur Point, under Toboe Ali Lama Peak, which forms the south-western extreme of Banka. Adjoining Dapur Point is an islet or rock 40 ft. high, with smaller rocks above water on both sides of it. Dapur Islands * are two islets lying a little more than a mile S. by E. from Dapur Point, and forming a good landmark when approaching from the southward. They form the south-eastern limit of the entrance to Banka Strait by the Stanton Channel, are nearly round, and about a cable's length. in diameter, and connected at low water by rocks. The southern one is 120 feet high, resembles a shoe in appearance, and is fronted by a coral sandy beach. Some rocks above water lie about a cable's length to the southward, and a rock under water about 2 cables to the south-eastward of the islet. There is a narrow channel, half a mile wide, with depths of 5 J fathoms, between the Dapur Islands and Dapur Point ; from thence to Nangka Point there are several white rocks lying inside the mud flat close to the shore. Sand Ridges off the South end of Banka. — H.M.S. Saracen, when searching for the coral reef reported by the Netherlands barque Banha f (many promi- nent points offering good objects for fixing her position), was enabled to extend the soundings 20 miles off the land. The soundings were found to be very irregular, long sand ridges, with deep water over a muddy bottom between. None of these banks have less than 5 fathoms on them, with the exception of one lying S.E. 1^ mile from Pulo Dapur, where there are several patches of 3J fathoms over a sandy ground. At 7 miles E. by S. of these patches, and separated by deeper water, is a bank of 4^ fathoms, coral and sand, extending in an easterly direction for 3 miles ; it appears to be a continuation of the Dapur Bank, and from its shoalest part Tanjong Baginda bears N.E. by N. 6 miles. Overfalls. — At full and change great overfalls were repeatedly noticed, caused by the meeting of the ebb stream from Banka and Graspar Straits over an uneven bottom. * Dapur means cooking place. Prahus, in passing, generally land on these islands to catch turtle, as it is the only place in Banka Strait where thej"^ are seen. t This coral reef, ahout 3 miles in circumference, and prohablj' only 6 ft. water on it, was reported as lying 15 miles from the South end of Banka Island. Its position was given aslat. 3° 21' S., long. 106° 41' E,, and the land in sight (probably Mount St. Paul, 930 It. high) bore N.N.W. TOBOE ALI LAMA— TOBOE ALI POINT. 201 TOBOE ALI LAMA is a hill about IJ mile N.N.E. of Dapur Point. Its peak is of p3'ranii(ial lorm, and rises to an elevation of 512 ft. NANGKA POINT is 2 miles N.W. from Dapur Point, and the coast be- tween is ironted by rocks extending; about half a mile from it. The edge of the bank is nearly a mile from Narigka Point, and has 5 fathoms water close to, so that it must be approached carefully. The point may easily be dis- tinguished by a round hillock over it 264 ft. high, and also the land receding forming Toboe (Tobu) Ali Bay, the shore of which is low, and fringed at high •water with sandy beaches inside the mud flat, which here extends 2 miles ofif the land. TOBOE ALI POINT, bearing N.W. byN., distant 5^ miles from Nangka Point, has several white rocks near it, and has or had a conspicuous tree on its summit, elevated 213 ft., and visible 14 miles ofll'. Toboe Ali Port, with its red-roofed barracks, stands half a mile S.E. of Toboe Ali Point, upon a low mound 40 ft. in height, at the left point of entrance of a small river, on the banks of which is the village of Sabang, situated close to the fort, and containing (^in 1860) a mixed population of 600 Malays and Chinese. At low water the river dries to a distance of 3 cables' lengths from its mouth. A Dutch Administrator and a Captain with a small military force garrison the fort. The anchorage off Toboe Ali Port is in 4 fathoms, mud, with Toboe (Tobu) Ali Lama Peak S.E. by E. ^ E., and Gadong Peak in line with Taboe Ali Fort N.E. J N. Smaller vessels may approach on this bearing nearer the shore, as the soundings decrease regularly. In southerly and south-westerly winds there is a heavy swell here, which makes landing difficult. No supplies of any description can be procured but water and wood ; the former may be obtained at the above river, or at a small stream half a mile to the eastward of it, from half flood to half ebb. Mount St. Paul, 5 miles E.N.E. from Toboe Ali Point, rises with a gradual acclivity on its south-eastern shoulder to a peak 990 ft. in height, with two others adjoining of nearly the same eleviition, the western peak terminating rather abruptly to a lower spur in the direction of Gradong Hill. When to the westward of Puui Island, owing to a projecting spur from the middle peak, the eastern peak of St. Paul is hidden, and the western one then ap- pears the highest, and forms, with the N.W. brow, a saddle hill. Gadong Hill is a pyramidal peaked hill 593 ft. high, W. by N. distant nearly 2^ miles from Mount St. Paul. Owing to the land contiguous to these hills and to Toboe Ali Lama being low, they appear as islands at a distance over 15 miles. Gossong Point bears N.W. byAV. 4 miles from Toboe Ali Point, the land between forming a deep bay, with low mangrove trees. From Gossong to Laboh Point the laud is more elevated, with numerous rocks close to the I. A. ii D 202 BANKA STRAIT. shore. Puni Island, lying midway between Gossong and Laboh Points is a small islet, 47 ft. in height, and conspicuous from its white granite rucks. " The small Puni Island and Gossong Point, seen in one, is a good mark for being clear of the banks. Seen from a northerly bearing, this poiut looks like an island."— (F. G. Petersen, 1875.) Laboh Point bears N.W. f W., distant 12 miles from Nangka Point. There is a hill, 250 ft. high, about a mile to the eastward of it, and another, about the same height, and the same distance, to the nurthward. This point from the suuth-eastward presents rather a shelving appearance, with large white rocks extending from it. Dahun Point is 7^ miles N.W. by W. \ W. from Laboh Point, and the shore between is low and covered witn mangroves ; a range of hillocks runs parallel to the coast. The land at Dahun Point attains a greater elevation, and is faced with sandy beaches and rocky points. At 4|^ miles N.N.E. ^ E. from the pcjint is around woody hill, 315 ft. in height. Close to the coast, 2 miles N. by W. i W. from Laboh Point, is a remarkable square tree, 167 ft. high, which is very conspicuous, there being no others of the same elevation near it. In clear weather it may be seen 12 miles off, closely resembling a ship under sail. Pulo Dahun, 30 ft. in height, is one of a cluster of rocks lying off Dahun Point, nearly all of which are covered at high water. It is or was remark- able by having a solitary tree on it. Paiijang Hill (or Long Hill) rises close to the coast between Dahun and Banka Points. It had one conspi- cuous tree on it in 1875. "When seen from the south-eastward it shows as a •wedge, with its greatest elevation, 316 ft., on the eastern end. A stream of fresh water runs close to the North side of this hill. Banka Point and Hill.— Banka Point is 12^ miles N.W. by W. | W. from Laboh Point, and the laud to the westward of it recedes into a bay. The point is about the same elevation as Pulo Besai, but at 1^ mile to the north- ward it rises to Banka Hill. From the north-westward it shows with a flat top, having three clumps of trees on its summit, the whole height being 256 feet. Pulo Besar is nearly connected with Banka Point by rocks. It is but 3 cables in extent, and b3 ft. high, but shows up well when bfcaring between S.E. and East. The Coast, from the foot of Banka Hill, takes a W.N.W. direction for about 4 miles, when it turns more to the northward to the entrance of a small river ; from thence it curves round, formiiig a small bay to Pudi Point, •when it runs pretty straight for 5 miles in a W. by N. direction, to Lalarie Point. Mamelon Hummoch is a small round hill 265 It. high, standing by itself 3 miles inland, in a N. by E. direction from Pudi Poiut. Two miles and a half E. by N. of the Mamelon is another small hill ; 2^ miles N. by E. LALAEIE-TIMBAGA EOCKS. 203 of which is a double-peaked hill, 396 ft. high; about 1^ mile east-northerly of this last, is a hill 471 ft. high. Lalarie, or Langhong Point, 75 ft. high, is very conspicuous. It had a clump of trees on its extremity; those around it (in 186;^) have been cut down, and their trunks whitewashed. It is the turning point into the main part of the strait for vessels that have passed through the Stanton Channel. "Round Lalarie Point should be ' whitewashed stumps,' but are not. The point itself is very sharp and good for bearing. From N.E. the point looks at first as if it were an island ; from the South the point is very sharp. Clump of trees mentioned ia the chart I could not distinguish." — (F. G. Petersen, 1875.) A mud bank fronts the whole coast just described between Dapur and La- larie Points. The 3-fathom line may be considered to mark its edge, which in most places shoals very quickly inside that line. The chart will best show its features. It should not be approached under 10 fathoms. Casuarina Point, so called from a number of casuarina trees on it, is nearly midway between Lalarie and Brani Points ; seen from the northward it ap- pears as an island. The coast between is low, with sandy beaches at high ■water mark, Brani, or Bold Point, 1 1 miles N. by W. f W. from Lalarie Point, is a termination of a spur I'rom the Parmassang range, with a conical peak, 516 feet high, over it, showing very prominently both from the northward and southward. Timbaga Rocks (or Copper Each), so called from their reddish colour, are three small rocks, lying East and West of each other, about a cable's length in extent. The highest and westernmost rock is 4 ft. above high water, and from it Second Point bears W. I N. 5f miles, and Brani Point N. by E. 3 miles. With a setting sun their reddish colour, from the contrast to the green verdure of the land, makes them readily identified, but to render thera more conspicuous at high water, and in the forenoon when they are not so clearly seen, a white conical beacon, surmounted with a ball, was erected on the highest rock, and the whole height being 24 ft. will make it visible in clear weather at 6 or 7 miles. Shoal water, about half a mile in breadth, extends nearly half a mile to the northward of the group, and 2^ miles to the southward, and forms, with the shore and bank of Banka, a channel three- quarters of a mile wide. Several shoal patches of coral and sand have been found nearly 1^ mile "W.N.W. from these rocks, but they are all inside the 10-fathom line, the depth vessels are cautioned not to go within when passing them. These patches are about a cable's length apart, having 2 fathoms least water on them, and 8 fathoms close to. In approaching them the soundings shoal suddenly from 20 to 10 fathoms. As a guide to lead ships clear, a temporary 204 BANKA STEAIT. Hack huoy has been placed in 4 fathoms on the outer patch, about 2 cables' lengths westward of the shoalest water.* From the middle patch of 2 fathoms the Timbaga Rocks appear nearly in line with a sharp peak (130 feet high) South of Bukit Limmaun, bearing E.S.E. ; and the apex of a distant long hill (657 ft. high) is just open West of a white rock off Tanjong Bedaauw, N. by E. f E. These patches and the Timbaga Eocks will be avoided by not bringing Lalarie Point South of S.E. f S., until Brani Peak bears E. by N. f N. A rocky batik, about a mile in extent East and West, and half a mile North and South, having 7 to 9 fathoms water over it, and 14 to 20 fathoms close-to all around, lies W.N. AV. of the shoal patches just mentioned. From its outer edge the largest of the Timbaga Eocks bears E. by S. ^ S., distant 3 miles, and Brani Peak E.N.E. 5 miles. Lalarie Point, bearing S.E. ^ S., which leads clear of the Timbaga Eocks and the above-mentioned patches, also leads just outside the edge of this bank. Water may be procured at a stream about half a mile to the northward of the Timbaga Rocks, from half flood to half ebb, after which the mud pre- vents a boat approaching near the shore. Parmassayig Range is a chain of hills running from Brani Point in a N.E. by N, direction for nearly 4 miles, to the highest peak, which rises to an elevation of 1,608 ft. ; the range then turns more to the eastward, for a dis- tance of about 3 miles, where it disappears. Tanjong Bedaauw is a bold headland, N. \ E. 3^ miles from Brani Point, the coast between forming a bay half a mile deep. A conspicuous white rock 45 ft. high, lies immediately off the point. Pulo Pemein, a good sharp mark to be seen 7 miles off, is a small round island, 50 ft. high, lying N.W. by N. 2 miles from Bedaauw Point. Tanjong Karrah, 171 ft. high, bears N.N.E. ^ E., nearly 3 miles from Tanjong Bedaauw. Many rocks, some above and others below water, extend more than half a mile off this point. SLAN BAY. — The coast from Tanjong Bedaauw falls back to the eastward, and between Tanjong Karrah and a point about 9 miles to the eastward of the Nangka Islands is a deep shallow bight, named Slan Bay, into which the Rivers Kotta and Slan disembogue. From the latter point the coast runs, with a slight bend in towards a small river, about N.W. f N., 3^ miles to Tanjong Tedong. On the coast line, in the depth of Slan Bay, is a conspi- cuous tree, 196 ft. high. Slan is the chief town of a pangkal, or district, and is municipally governed by the administrator of the tin mines. Here, as at all other chief towns of districts, a small number of Dutch troops are stationed. * Captain Petersen reports that both the beacon and the buoy could not be seen by hira in 1876, while passing. THE NANGKA ISLANDS. 205 The edge of the Shore Mud Bank is nearly a mile outside Lalarie Point, and from thence its direction is nearly straight, about North by West for 18J miles, or for 2h miles beyond Pulo Pemein, passing Casuarina and Brani Points a little less than half a mile. It then assumes somewhat the form of Slan Bay, which it fronts, and surrounding the Great Nangka Island, projects a couple of spits or horns towards the bank extending northward from the middle Nangka, From thence the edge falls back in a north-easterly direction towards Tanjong Tedong, from which it extends little more than a mile. About two-thirds of a mile south-westward of Tanjong Bedaauw, a nar- row inlet, having 3^ to 5 fathoms depths of water, runs into the bank in a north-westerly direction, and turns to the northward nearly as far as Pulo Pemein. Northward of the Timbaga Pocks the bank may be approached to 8 or 7 fathoms, as far as a mile or two to the northward of Pulo Pemein, when vessels may stand into 7 or 6 fathoms, until near the Nangka Islands, which should not be approached on the West side nearer than 12 fathoms. The NANGKA ISLANDS, three in number, lie about the middle part of the strait, from 1^ to 4 miles distant from the shore of Banka Island, and 8 or 9 miles eastward of Third Point, on the Sumatra coast. Great Nangka, 285 ft. high, is If mile long North and South, and 1^ mile broad ; Middle and West Nangka are each about half a mile long, the former being 125 ft., and the latter 205 ft. high. Great Nangka is nearly half a mile within the edge of the mud-bank which extends from the Banka shore. From the Middle Nangka a bank of 2 to 8 fathoms extends S.S.E. 1^ mile; from West Nangka a similar bank projects to the southward for nearly a mile, and S.S.E. distant three-quarters of a mile from its tail is a 3^-fathoms patch. A small flat rock, 6 ft. above water, named West Reef, lies about 1^ cable off the West end of West Nangka ; and another, 32 ft. high, named Tree Hock, lies nearly one-third of a mile south-eastward of Middle Nangka, be- tween it and Great Nangka. A reef, named North Reef, with rocks above and below water, lies a quarter of a mile off the North end of Middle Nangka, the mud-bank extending off in the same direction about a quarter of a mile further. Between the banks which surround the islands are intricate channels, from 2 to 4 cables broad, having from 4 to 7 fathoms water in them. Water. — There is a stream of water on the West side of Great Nangka, and another and smaller stream on the N.E. side ; but both streams are fre- quently dry in the S.E. monsoon, and are difficult of approach for ships' boats. H.M.S. Belleisle was watering at Great Nangka night and day, and only filled 30 tons in 36 hours. The natives are not to be trusted, but on the contrary much caution is necessary while watering. 206 BANK A STRAIT. In the N.W. monsoon it is higli water, full and change, at the Nangka Islands, at 7 a.m., and the rise is about 9f ft. Many eddies and small races will be met with in the vicinity of these islands. They are caused by the tidal fluod wave from the China Sea meeting the flood from the south- ward. TANJONG TEDONG, bearing N.E. by E. i E., ",^ mile from the West Nangka, is a conspicuous point, 234 ft. hi^h, inside tlie Nangka Islands, to which it is connected by the mud baiik. A large cluster of rocks, some above and others below water, lie about a mile north-westwar-d of the point, only a short distance from the edge of the nmd-bank. The Coast from Tanjong Tedong falls back to the N.E. into the bay, at the bottom of which is the small liiver Semhoehn ; from thence it curves to the N.W. to Tanjong Peiiegan, from which it again falls back about a mile to the entrance of a small river of that name. The const line from this river rounds the foot of the higher lani sloping down from Mundo Peak, and then forming a small bay, tr'^nds N.N.W. to a point bearing E. by S. 2 miles from the largest of the Meddang Islands, when it again bends to the N.E. for li mile to the entrance of the Mundo River. Mundo Bay.— From the Mundo River the coast trends to the N.W. about 8 miles to Tanjong Jurung-patt, forming the shore of Mundo Bay, with a point about the centre of it projecting nearly a mile. T^^e -shore of this bay is low, and covered with trees, which, at the entrance of the Kotta Waringin River, are 121 ft. high. Tanjong Jurung-patt, 240 ft. high, is the western limit of Mundo Bay. The land here begins to be more elevated, and con- tinues to be so as far as the entrance of the Jiring River. The coast from Tanjong Jurung-patt takes a westerly direction for nearly 3 miles to Tanjoyig Raya, where it falls back northerly about a mile to the Tempelang River ; from thence it takes again a westerly direction for nearly 4 miles to Tanjong Ressam, the eastern extreme of Jiring Bay. This latter point is prominent, and faces the S.W. ; it lies N.W. by AV. 12 miles from the Meddang Islands. Jiring Bay is the deep bight between Tanjong Rpssam and Tanjong Tadah, the coast trending away from the former point in a N.N.W. direction to the entrance of the River Jiring, and from thence curving round about W.S.W. and S.W. to Tanjong Tadah, which bears from Tanjong Ressam W. ^ S., distant 8f miles. The shore of the bay is low, with three conspicuous trees 152 ft. high in its N.W. part. Tanjong Tadah, 203 ft. high, is readily recog- nized, the land on botli sides being lower, and curving into two bays, giving it a very prominent appearance. Between Tanjong Tadah and Tanjong Puni, which lie nearly Eist and West of each other, about 8 miles apart, there are two bays, each about three-quarters of a mile deep, with a point having a hummock or mound, 256 ft. high, upon it midway between. MONOPIN HILL. 207 Tanjong Snkal, 2 miles East by North from TanjongPuni, has a hill 209 feet high upon it, and a small river oa its West side. Tanjong Pani is low, and the coast line rounds away very gradually on either side of it. From thence to a point 7|- miles to the N.AV. by W. h W., the coast falls back and forms a bay about a mile deep. From the latter point to Kalian Point the bearing is W. f S., and the distance nearly 4 miles, the coast between form- ing Mintok Bay. There are several hills from 100 to 600 ft. high on the part of the coast just described between Tanjong Tedong and the Mundo River. Mundo Peak 612 ft. high, and bearing E. by S. ;^ S. 4 miles from the Meddang Islands, is the most convenient for fixing the vessel's position. About three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the Tempelang River is a small hill 263 ft. hi^jh ; and N.E. 3 miles from its entrance is Buht Tem- pelang, a hill 412 ft. high ; W. by N. | N. from Bukit Tempelang is Biikit Pandin, 585 ft. high, which will be found very useful when in this part of the strait Solitary Sharp Peak, 661 ft. high, is the summit of a sharp cone hill standing by itself, N. ^ E., distant 10^ miles from Tanjong Tadah ; this is also very useful when brought in line with nearer objects, for giving a correct line of direction. Four or 5 miles inland from the coast between Puni Point and Mintok are some hills, one of which, Bukit Beloe, IIZ ft. high, serves as a mark to clear the Brom-Brom Reef and Amelia Bank ; a little to the westward is another hiU 427 ft. high. About 2 miles north-eastward of Bukit Beloe is Buht Panjang, or long hill, 661 ft. high ; and nearly 3 miles north-westward of Beloe is a hill 454 feet high. Meddang Islands are three islets lying about 3 miles off the entrance of the Mundo River, and forming the SDUth-western extreme of Mundo Bay, being joined to the main land by the mud flat. The largest islet is 147 ft. high, and bears North 9 miles from the West Nangka. A small island, named Pulo Antu, lies about 1^ mile north-eastward of the Meddang Islands. Pulo Sambayang is an islet 175 ft. high, lying about E. J S. nearly 3 miles from Tanjong Ressam, and \\ mile W.S.W. of the entrance to the Tempelang River. Karang Sarabu are a cluster of rocks, some above and others below water, extending in a S. by E. J E. direction nearly 2 miles from the point with a hummock on it between Tanjong Tadah and Tanjong Sukal. MONOPIN HILL, or Gunong Manomhing, in lat. 2° U' S., long. 105° 12' E., rises near the West end of Banka, and its summit being 1,456 ft. high, may be seen at a considerable distance, and serves as a guide in approaching to or departing from the North end of Banka Strait. It frequently happens at 208 BANKA STEAIT. the North entrance of the strait, that this hill is the only visible object, especially when a vessel is near Sumatra in 5 or 6 fathoms water. The edge of the bank, after passing a cable's length outside the rocks off Tanjong Tedong, takes a N.N.W. direction, till abreast of the Meddang Islands, outside of which it extends nearly a mile. From thence it curves round Mundo Bay, projecting 4 miles to the southward of Tanjong Jurung- ptitt ; it then runs to the westward, passing Tanjong Eessam at 4^ miles, and Tanjong Tadah at nearly 3 miles. Mundo Peak, well open to the southward of the Meddang Islands, leads clear of the edge of this bank between those islands and Tanjong Tadah. From Tanjong Tadah the bank still follows a westerly direction till South. of Tanjong Puni, when it trends away sharply to the north-westward, fol- lowing the curve of the coast line at an average distance of about \\ mile, until abreast the East point of Mintok Bay, from which it is distant only half a mile. Between Tanjong Tedong and Tanjong Tadah, the soundings decrease regularly towards the bank, which may there be approached to 5 or even 4 fathoms, except near the Meddang Islands, where a vessel should not shoal under 9 fathoms. At Tanjong Tadah the bank begins to get steeper to, and abreast of the Karang Sarabu Eocks, there are 9 and 10 fathoms pretty close to its edge. Caution. — The bank South of Puni Point is very shallow and steep-to, having from 11 to 16 fathoms, almost close to its edge. Tanjong Tadah, bearing E. by N. \ N., jutt clears this dangerous spit to the eastward, and Monopin Hill N.W. by N., just clears it to the westward. KARANG BROM-BROM is an extensive shoal of rocks and sand, dry in some places at low water, lying 4| miles South from the shore between Tan- jong Puni and Sukal. It is a little more than 2 miles long in a W. ^ N. and opposite direction, and nearly half a mile wide at its western end, where the rocks are, and from which Monopin Hill bears N.W. ^ N. ; the eastern end tapers away to a sandy point. This danger was marked by a temporary beacon, which is said to have disappeared (1875). A red buoy was placed off the southern side of Karang Brom-Brom, in 1875, in 5 fathoms water, with the middle of Monopin Hill bearing N. 40° W., and the East point of Cape Tadah, N. 50° E. The highest part of the hummock on the point behind the Karang Sarabu Eocks bearing N. ^ E , or the highest part of Tanjong Tadah bearing N.E. t N., clears the eastern end more than half a mile ; and Bukit Beloe, bearing N. ^ W., clears the western end nearly a mile. A channel, 2 miles wide, having 7 to 15 fathoms water in it, lies between the Broni-Brom and the shore bank. Nothwithstanding that the channel between the Brom-Brom Eeef and Banka is only 2 miles wide, a vessel may easily work through it by day, during the western monsooD, because she cau KAEANG HADJI. 209 take advantage of the tides; but on the coast of Sumatra a strong easterly- current runs with little interruption ; she must, however, be very careful in crossing over to the coast of Banka, as the bank is very steep, and she might suddenly fall from 7 to 3 fathoms before there would be time for a second cast of the lead. Amelia Bank is a small patch of hard ground, with 2| fathoms water over it, at the S.E. extreme of the Mintok Bank, to the shoal patches of which it is connected by a ridge of 4 and 5 fathoms water. From it the western ex- treme of the Brom-Brom bears East 4i miles, and Monopin Hill N. by W. JW. 12 miles. Bukit Boloe bearing N. i E. leads a mile to the eastward of the Amelia Bank ; and the same hill N, by E. ^ E. leads the same distance to the west- ward. Mintok Bank extends from the Amelia Bank in a direction nearly parallel to the shore, for a distance of 10 or 11 miles, to within about the third of a mile of the Karang Hadji Eeef, off Kalian Point. It is composed of hard sand, and has several patches with only 2^ and 3 fathoms water over them, and 4 or 5 fathoms between. A 2-fathoms patch lies N.W. by N. 2i miles from the Amelia Bank. Bukit Beloe, bearing N. by E. 5 E., which clears the Amelia Bank to the westward, also clears the patch to the eastward. From this last-mentioned patch, other patches of 2^ and 3 fathoms extend N.AV. by W. for 5 miles, this part of the bank being about IJ mile wide. For 2| miles further in the same direction the bank has from 4k to 7 fathoms water over it, the deepest water appearing to be with Mintok Fort flagstaff in line with the pier-head, bearing about N. by E. 5 E. Another 3-fathoms patch lies with the lighthouse on Kalian Point bearing N. ^ E. 1 J mile, from which 5 fathoms may be carried towards the Karang Hadji Eeef until very close to it, when the water will suddenly deepen to 11, 17, or 20 fathoms. Monopin Hill, in line with the lighthouse on Kalian Point, N.E. 2 N., leads westward of the 3-fathoms patch, between it and the Karang Hadji Eeef. A ship working through the strait, to keep clear of Mintok Bank, should take care not to bring the lighthouse on Kalian Point to the westward of N.W. byN. KARANG HADJI is a dangerous reef of rocks and sand lying close to the N.W. end of the Mintok Bank ; the rocks on it are all covered at high water, but many of them are visible at half tide. The beacon marked on the chart was not visible in 1875. The reef is 1 S- mile long N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and half a mile broad, and from its western and outer extreme Kalian lighthouse bears E. | N. 2^ miles, and Tanjong Oelar and Tanjong Bersiap are in line ; its eastern extreme bears S.'W. by W. J W. 1| mile I. A. 2 b 210 BANK A STRAIT. from Kalian Point. Close to it on the North, West, and South sides, the depths are irregular from 16 to 21 fathoms. A rock, with 1 2 ft. over it at low water, lies about 2 cables northward of the Hadjie Reef, with Tanjong Bersiap, the western point of Banca Island, bearing N. % E., and Kalian Point lighthouse E. J N. Tanjong Oelar kept well open of Tanjong Bersiap clears the West end of this reef ; the highest part of Monopin Hill in line with the lighthouse clears its eastern extreme ; and Tanjong Puni bearing E. f S. clears it to the soil th ward. A red himj was placed off the N.W. side of Karang Hadjie, in 1875, in 4^ fathoms water; from it Tanjong Kalean bears N. 87° E., and Bersiap Hill N. 26° E. Inner or Binnen Bank, of hard sand, with 2^ fathoms water on it, and 7 or 8 fathoms close-to, extends East If mile from Kalian Point, when it turns to the N.W. for about half a mile, thus forming a spit projecting to the east- ward ; from thence it curves away and is lost in the sand-bank which extends half a mile from the shore of Mintok. Two-thirds of a mile E. by S. from this spit is a 3-fathoms patch, from which Mintok pier-head bears N.N.W. | W., distant two-thirds of a mile, and Kalian Point lighthouse West, northerly. KALIAN Point and Light. — Kalian Point, low and sandy, with some trees behind it, is the south-western extreme of the West end of Banka. The lighthouse upon it, in lat. 2° 4' 37" S., long. 105° 9' E., is a white stone tower with a red lantern, which shows, at an elevation of 170 ft., a fixed white light, visible in clear weather at 20 miles. About three-quarters of a mile N.W. from the lighthouse is Tanjong Batu- hrani, the trees immediately behind which are 127 ft. high. Kalian Ledge is a small reef, with only 6 to 9 ft. water over it, lying a little more than a mile to the N.W. of Kalian Point ; from it the lighthouse bears S.E. by E., Ber- siap Point N. \ W., and Monopin Hill N.E. I E. Kalian Pass, formed by Kalian Point and Ledge on one side, and the Karang Hadji Reef on the other, is three-quarters of a mile wide, with soundings in it of 25 to 32 fathoms. This channel is generally used by vessels coming from the northward and proceeding to Mintok Bay, and with a fair wind is preferable to the passage outside the Karang Hadji ; but the great depth, bad anchorage, and strong currents, render it unadvisable to attempt to beat through. In using this channel, the sandy point upon which the lighthouse stands may be passed pretty close to ; and the lighthouse on the bearing of E. by S. leads through between the Kalian Ledge and the Karang Hadji Reef. MINTOK. — Two miles E.N.E. from Kalian Point, on the banks of a small MINTOK. 211 river, is the town of Mintok, the capital of the island,* having a fort upon a hill, and some stone houses close to the shore, the red roofs of which are visible at a considerable distance. The resident and other Dutch officers have houses on the hill near the fort, most of the native houses being lower down nearer the sea. The mail steamers, which run twice a month between Batavia and Singapore, always call here. A pier nearly half a mile long, and running out to the edge of the bank, has been built, and is of great advantage to the trade of the place ; on the extremity of the pier a small fixed white light is shown all night. The best anchorage for large ships is in 10 to 6 fathoms, about 1 J mile from the shore, with Monopin Hill bearing about N. J E., and Kalian Point about W.N. W. or W. by N. The ordinary anchorage of the Dutch man-of- war stationed in Banka Strait, and of the merchant vessels trading to Min- tok, which are usually of a small class, is in 4^ or 5 fathoms inside the 3- fathoms patch lying off the spit which extends from the Binnen Bank, at any convenient distance and direction from the pier-head. The usual route to Mintok Road is across the Mintok Bank, between the Karang Hadji Eeef and the Amelia Bank. A vessel coming from the northward, and bound for the road, may proceed either through the Kalian Pass, or she may pass outside the Karang Hadji Reef, and then follow the usual track across the Mintok Bank. A good mark for crossing the bank is Monopin Hill in line with the flagstaff on the fort bearing N. by E. \ E., which will lead over it in 5 or 6 fathoms water; another good mark is Monopin Hill in line with the lighthouse N.E. ^ N. No ship can cross the bank in safety with Monopin Hill bearing to the westward of North ; with the hill bearing North, a ship crossing the bank would have 3 fathoms at low water spring tides, the bottom hard sand, coral, and shells. When over the bank, the water will deepen to 18 or 20 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, and shoal again quickly towards the inner bank and the shore. With a working wind, keep Monopin Hill N. J E. and N.N.E. To enter Mintok Road from the eastward, a vessel must work between the shore and the Mintok Bank, being careful not to bring Tanjong Tadah to the eastward of E. by N. f N., until Monopin Hill bears N. W. by N. A hard sandy bottom and shoal water will show when near the edge of the * Banka, like the adjacent countries, is now under the dominion of the Dutch, and has been so without dispute since 1821, M^hen it was finally conquered from the treacherous Sultan of Palembang in Sumatra. .\s is well known, the chief commercial product is tin : a government monopoly, chiefly worked by Chinese, who form more than a moiety of the total population- of Banka, estimated at 35,000. The island is comparatively sterile, and the natives rude and treacherous. There are numerous other colonies of Malays and Javanese, in addition to the Chinese immigrants. The chief geological feature is the range of volcanic and granitic hills which runs through the island, parallel to and of similar character to those on the Malay pcninbula. 212 BANKA STRAIT. Mintok Bank ; while, to avoid the shallow along the coast, Monopin Hill must not be brought more to the westward than N.W. by N., and taking care not to shoal to less than 5 fathoms. At Kalian P(jint it is high water, full and change, in the N.W. mon- soon, at 8'' 17" a.m., and in the S.E. monsoon at 8 p.m.; the springs rise 12 J ft. Tanjong Bersiap, 168 ft. high, beai'sfrom Tanjong Batu-brani, the north- western extreme of Kalian Point, N. by W. i W., distant 3^ miles. The coast between curves slightly inland, and is fronted by a bank extending nearly a mile from it, pretty close to which are 7 and 10 fathoms. Inside the edge of this bank, and lying some distance off Bersiap Point, is a cluster of rocks, some of which are above and others below water. Bersiap Hill, 336 ft. high, is small, and stands by itself, about IJ mile N.E. of the point. About 2 miles N.E. of the hill, the extreme of a range running from Monopin to the N.W. forms a conspicuous peak 709 ft. high. Tanjong Oelar, 156 ft. high, is about 4 miles N. by E. from Tanjong Ber- siap ; nearly midway between is a remarkable yellow cliff. About three- quarters of a mile northward of the yellow cliff, and just to the South of a point with a rock off it, is a stream of water. Oelar Reefs is the name given to the rocky and uneven ground, with reefs and rocks above water in places, extending off shore between Bersiap and Oelar Points. From a mile off Bersiap Point, it runs in a N. by W. direction for nearly 3 miles, when it trends away to the north-eastward, passing about three-quarters of a mile outside Oelar Point, immediately off which are several rocks above water. Transit Rock, on which H. M.S. 7V«ws?Y was wrecked, 10th July, 1857, lies at the western extremity of this rocky, imeven ground, at 2J miles off shore, and W. I N. 8 cables' lengths from a reef which generally shows, except at high tides, with 6 and 10 fathoms between them. The least depth on the rock at low water springs is 12 ft., and from this spot Oelar Point bears N.E. by E. ; the highest point of Monopin Eange E. by S. f S. ; and Kalian Point is IJ" open of Bersiap Point S.S.E. southerly, distant from the latter point 2J miles. There are 20 fathoms water at a cable's length to the west- ward of the 12-feetline ; the depth around varying from 14 to 12, 7, and 5 fathoms over very uneven bottom. A roL-k awash, at low water springs, lies E. | N. 2 cables' lengths from the Transit Pock ; and there are 4i fathoms (perhaps less) rocky bottom, at half a mile to the northward of the Transit, with 20 fathoms close-to ; the locality of the latter is indicated by strong ripples. Tanjong Batu-brani well open of Tanjong Bersiap, bearing S.S.E. ^ E., clears the Transit Eock to the westward; and Tanjong Biat, well open of Tanjong Oelar, bearing E.N.E., clears it to the northward. TANJONG BIAT bears N.E. | E., distant 3 miles from Tanjong Oelar, and, like that point and Tanjong Bersiap, has rocks above and below water, FREDERICK HENDRICK ROCKS. 213 extending some distance off it. The line of danger which extends about three-quarters of a mile off Tanjong Oelar, follows the curve of the coast line at about the same distance towards Biat Point, where it projects rather farther off. In the bay between Oelar and Biat Points is a small stream of water, with a village close to it. Rocky Patches, with 20 fathoms close to them, lie off Tanjong Biat, having a narrow channel with 10 and 11 fathoms water in it between them and the rocky ground extending from the coast. From the outer patch of 3 fathoms, Tanjong Oelar bears S. ^ W. 3 miles, and Tanjong Biat S.E. by E., a little over 2 miles. Tanjong Oelar bearing South leads nearly half a mile westward of these dangers; and Buh'f ^atu, a hill 708 ft. high, about 12 miles eastward of Tanjong Biat, bearing E. by S., leads northward of them. Caution. — The West coast of Banka, between Tanjong Kalian and Tan- jong Biat, is very dangerous to approach, owing to the rocky patches just described and the deep water close to them ; ships should, therefore, exercise great caution when in this vicinity, observing that Tanjong Bersiap, if not brought to the westward of South, will clear all the dangers between Tan- jongs Oelar and Biat; and they should be careful to regard the marks given to clear the Transit Rock. FREDERICK HElv DRICK ROCKS lie at the northern entrance of Banka Strait, nearly midway between Batakarang Point on the Sumatra coast and Tanjong Oelar on the Banka coast. They consist of two rocky patches, lying North and South of each other, having only 9 ft, on the northern patch, and 3 ft. on the southern. The two patches occupy a space about a mile long. North and South, and half a mile broad. From the 3-feet patch Monopin Hill bears nearly E. by S. 14 miles; and the lighthouse on Kalian Point S.E. by E. ^ B. 12f miles. Monopin Hill E. | S. leads about half a mile southward of the 3-ft- patch; and Monopin Hill in line with the remarkable yellow cliff between Bersiap and Oelar Points, E. by S. | S., leads 2 miles northward of the northern patch. Close around the shoal are 16 to 20 fathoms water. A red buoy is moored on the South point of Frederick Hendrick Reef, in 5 fathoms, with Kalean light bearing S.E. by E. \ E., Bersiap Hill E. by S., and Mount Parree N E. by E. It is visible about 3 miles off ; but as the buoy from the strong tides frequently shifts its position, vessels are cautioned not to place too much dependence on it. Channels. — The channel westward of the Frederick Hendrick Rocks is the one most generally used, the depths in it being moderate, decreasing regu- larly towards the bank extending from the Sumatra coast ; whereas in the channel eastward of the shoal the water is much deeper, and the depths irregular. 214 BANKA STEAIT. Between the shoal and the 3-fathoms line at the edge of the mud-bant extending from Batakarang Point, the channel is 4| miles wide, having 16 and 17 fathoms close outside the 10-fathoms line towards the rocks; the depths under 10 fathoms decreasing regularly towards the bank. The channel between the shoal and the Transit Eoek and reefs off the "West coast of Banka is 8 miles wide, having 16 to 20 fathoms at 3 or 4 miles eastward of the shoal, and 19 to 25 miles nearer Banka, which depth* increase to 24 and 30 fathoms close to the dangers extending from that coast. Directions for West Channel. — To avoid the Frederick Hendrick Eocks, vessels taking the channel between them and Sumatra should keep in 4^ to 7 fathoms water on the edge of the bank off Batakarang Point, and not keep more to the eastward than in 9 or 10 fathoms, while Monopin Hill bears between East and E.S.E. In working thx'ough this channel a vessel should not deepen to more than 9 fathoms towards the Hendrick Eocks, but the bank off Batakarang Point may be neared to 5 or 4i fathoms. When Monopin Hill bears E.S.E., the vessel will be northward of the rocks. In the East Channel, Mounts Punyabung, Paree, and Jerankat, on the N.W. part of Banka, will appear like islands. To pass eastward of the Frederick Hendrick, keep Mount Punyabung N.E., until Monopin Hillbears- E. i S., when Punyabung must not be more eastward than N.E. ; and when Monopin is E. by S. J S., Punyabung must not be more ISorth than N.E. ^ N., so as to avoid in the first case the Hendrick Eocks, and in the second the Transit Eock. "When Monopin bears southward of S.E., Mount Punyabung must not be brought to the northward of N.E. Soundings in Banka Strait. — In Banka Strait, between Lalarie and Second Points, the depths are from 17 to 25 fathoms, shoaling suddenly from those depths to 10 fathoms on the Banka side of the strait, but decreasing regu- larly towards the 10-fathoms line on the Sumatra side. The various banks and coral patches which exist in the strait, having more than 5 or 6 fathoms on them, will be best understood by reference to the chart. The dangerous banks have been described. Indeed, throughout the strait, the soundings cannot alone be relied upon to conduct a vessel safely through ; but when associated with careful bearings and frequent references to the chart, a stranger need not run the least risk, or experience any diffi- culty in passing through the strait for the first time. ( 215 ) STANTON AND LUCIPAEA CHANNELS. The STANTON CHANNEL, which was surveyed, or rather discovered, by Mr. W. Stanton, E.N., in command of H.M.S. Saracen, in 1859-60, is a most important addition to our knowledge of these entrances to the China Sea. This is the more so, inasmuch as the Lucipara Channel to the west- ward of it is said to be filling up in consequence of the extension of the low Sumatran coast His directions which follow will be found precise and suffi- cient. He also makes the following general remarks : It has hitherto been the custom for all ships to work along the Sumatra coast, where they have not only a strong wind, but a constant current to contend with ; consequently sailing vessels have been delayed tivo and three weeks, and instances have been known of vessels being a month making the passage through Banka Strait. The Saracen frequently worked well to windward under fore and aft sails, when the clipper ships could not make any progress, and were compelled to anchor on the Sumatra side. From my past experience, I feel confident that a smart sailing vessel, by taking advantage of the tides and currents, and following the directions hereafter given, may make the passage even in the fall strength of the monsoon in three or four days. The Stanton Channel, lying along the south-western coast of Banka, is 19 miles long, and nearly 3 miles wide at its narrowest part, with depths, mid- channel, increasing gradually from 7 fathoms at its south-eastern entrance to 20 fathoms near the other extreme. The approaches to it from the southward are marked by the well-defined mountain of St. Paul, and the conical hills of Gadong and Toboe Ali Lama (page 201), and in fine clear weather by the more distant range of Padang, 2,217 ft. high; these cannot fail to point out the entrance, and the water being deep within half a mile of the Dapur Islands (page 200), will give strangers confidence in steering for the land. Prominent points and bills will also be seen along the Banka coast, bearings of which will enable a vessel at any time to ascertain her position. The channel is bounded by narrow banks extending in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction, and all partaking of the same formation (sand) in their shoalest parts, with a mixture of mud and sand between. The two marking the western boundary of the channel are named Smits and Melvill Banks, and off the latter a lightvessel would be most useful. Smits Bank consists of four smaller banks, nearly connected, and forming one long narrow ridge 15 miles in length, with its shoalest part of 3 ft., lying 6 miles, and the next shoalest of 9 ft., 3 miles from the north-western end; two other patches of 3 fathoms and 2f fathoms lie on the S.E. part of the bank. Panjang Hill, bearing N.E., leads to the north-eastward of this bank, be- tween it and the Nemesis Bank, in 6 fathoms at low water. Gradong Peak 216 BA.NKA. STRAIT. in line with Toboe Ali Point N.E. i E., or Lucipara S.W., clears the south- eastern end in 4 fathoms ; and Lalarie Point N.W. by W. ^ W., or not ap- proaching the bank to a less depth than 10 fathoms, clears the north-eastera fiide. Melvill Bank, 5 miles long, and nearly half a mile broad, lies a quarter of a mile to the eastward of the south-eastern part of Smits Bank, with a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms between. The shoalest part of this bank is near its north-western extremity, and is about 2 miles in length, with from 2 to 3 fathoms on it. At the North end, in 5 fathoms, Laboh Point bears N.E. by E. ; and tlie bank is cleared to the south-eastward in 7 fathoms by the latter point b-^aring N. by E. i^ E. ; and to the eastward in 8 fathoms, by bringing Parmassang Peak to touch the West side of Banka Hill N.W. | N. Between the above banks and Lucipara, there are many others all trend- ing in the same direction, with narrow deep-water channels between ; but as these channels are exceedingly narrow, and no marks can be given to clear the banks, they are not available for vessels. Eastern Bank, — The bank bounding the eastern side of Stanton Channel is 13 miles long and nearly a mile wide, at 3 miles S.W. by S. of Laboh Point, which is the broadest and shoalest part. It is formed by three smaller banks nearly joined together, with from 2 to 3 fathoms on the north-western and south-eastern ones, and only 4J ft. on the middle of the centre bank. The north-western extremity is separated from a projecting horn, extending from the shore mud flat at 2 miles S.S.W. of Pulo Dahun, by a narrow channel of 6 fathoms. Gadong Peak, in line with Toboe Ali Fort, bearing N.E. ^ N., leads to the southward of the south-eastern part of the bank in 4J fathoms ; Dapur Island S.E. by E. f E. leads to the westward ; and the Mameion or Hum- mock, kept open to the westward of Pulo Besar, N.W., clears the West side of the north-western extremity of the above banks. A small bank of sand lies 1 mile to the westward of the south-eastern extreme of the eastern bank, but as not less than 4J fathoms were found on it at low water, it is not dangerous to ships passing through. Inner Channel. — To the eastward of the eastern bank along the coast of Banka, there is an inner channel nearly a mile wide, with 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, but as it is encumbered with shoals it is only navigable for small vessels. Dapur Island, bearing S.E. by E., leads nearly in mid-channel. There are also two outlets into the main channel over the western bank, in 5 and 4 fathoms ; the former with Pulo Dahun bearing N.N.E. ; the latter and southern outlet, when Pulo Puni and Gossong Point are in line, E. ^N. Nemesis Bank, lying nearly mid-channel between Pudi Point and False First Point, is a long ridge of sand extending 9 miles in a N.W. by W. and STANTON CHANNEL. 217 S.E. by E. direction, with irregular soundings of from 3 to 10 fathoms on it. The shoalest part consists of two patches of ?> fathoms, each about 2 cables' lengths in extent^ upon one of which the French frigate Nemesis grounded in 1857. They lie E. S.E. and W.N. W. from each other, distant half a mile, and from the western patch Lalarie Point bears N.N.W. i W. 4J miles, and False First Point S.S.W. i W. 4^ miles. Casuarina Point kept open of Lalarie Point, bearing N. by W. f W., leads to the westward of these shoal patches, in 14 fathoms water; the Mamelon or Hummock, N. by E. i E., or False First Point S.W. i S., leads to the eastward ; and Lalarie Point bearing N.AV. | N., clears them to the north- ward. There is another patch of 5 fathoms lying 2 miles from the south- eastern extreme of the bank, with False First Point W. i S., and First Point S. by W. i W., distant SJ miles. Anchorage may be found anywhere in the Stanton Channel, but ships bringing up with their kedge or stream anchor must always be prepared to let go the bower anchor, as there will be experienced, particularly during the change of the monsoons, very dangerous squalls, with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, which generally last for about an hour. TIDES. — In the S.E. monsoon it is high water, full and change, at Toboe Ali Point, on the Banka shore, at 8** 30™ p.m., and at 10 a.m. in N.W. monsoon. The ordinary rise at springs is lOf ft., but it sometimes reaches 12 ft. The highest tide generally occurs two days after full and change. The rate at springs is 2^- knots. The flood stream sets to the N."W. and runs for about 12 hours, and the ebb the same period in the opposite direction, but they are both sometimes influenced by the strength of the monsoon. When it is blowing strong from the S.E., the flood stream often runs for 14 hours. A vessel may carry a fair tide all the ivay through by starting from either extremity of the strait at low water, as the tidal waves from the China and Java Seas meet near the Nangka Islands. At Laboh Point it is high water, full and change, at 1 1 p.m. in the S.E. monsoon, and the rise at ordinary springs is 10 ft. After rounding Lalarie Point in the S.E. monsoon the flood sets N.N.W., and the ebb to the S.S.E., along the Banka shore. The time of high water at Laboh Point being 2 J hours later than at Toboe Ali Puint, in the southern part of Stanton Channel, for a few days after full and change the tides will be found (as there is generally 12 hours' flow and ebb) to run in one direction all night, and the opposite direction during the day, with a velocity of from 2^ to 3 knots. The current also setting directly mid-channel, the flood N.W. by W., and the ebb S.E. by E., vessels may take advantage of it in light airs to drop through. Directions for Statiton Channel from the Southward. — Vessels from the south- I. A. 2 1' 218 BANK A STEAIT. ward, intending to proceed into Banka Strait by the Stanton Channel, can- not fail, in approaching the coast of Banka, to recognise the mountain of St. Paul (page 201) by its flattish top having several nipples of nearly the same elevation, and Gadong and Toboe Ali Lama Peaks by their conical appearance. Should the weather be clear, the distant high range of Pedang will be visible. The highest peak of this range is quoin-shaped, attaining from its western shoulder an elevation of 2,217 ft., with several lower hilla of a rounder and more conical appearance adjoining, the two westernmost being about 1,200 and 1,400 ft. high. After recognizing Mount St. Paul and Toboe Ali Lama Peak, approach the latter on a North bearing, and when about 3 miles to the southward of the Dapur Islands, steer N.W. by W., which will lead nearly mid-channel to abreast Banka Point ; recollecting the marks given at p. 216, for clearing the Melvill and Eastern Bank. When off Laboh Point, the high range of Parmassang will be visible, rising from a gradual slope on its western shoulder to a flat-top peak, with two lower ones adjoining. The three hills, Banka, Panjang, and Woody, will also be seen ; the two former may be known by their wedge shape, and the latter by its isolated position. Prom abreast Banka Point a course may be shaped along the Banka shore, passing Lalarie Point at a distance not within IJ mile, and from thence to Second Point. When Pulo Dahun bears North, great care must be taken to avoid the spit which extends in a south-easterly direction from the shore mud flat, between the above island and Banka Point. The Ma- melon or Hummock, N.W., well open to the westward of Pulo Besar, clears this spit (page 216) ; from thence to the Timbaga Eocks the bank may be avoided by not shoaling towards it under a depth of 10 fathoms. Working through this channel from the eastward, vessels may stand towards the South extreme of the Dapur Islands to a distance of half a mile, as these islands have deep water at 4 cables' lengths from them. Between this and Toboe Ali the shore mud flat may be approached until Pulo Dapur bears S.E. by E. ^ E., and Lucipara may be neared to a distance of 5 miles ; but when Gadong Peak bears N.E. ^ N., or comes in line with Toboe Ali Fort, Pulo Dapur must not be brought to the southward of S.E. by E. | E. to clear the north-eastern part of the Eastern bank. Parmassang Peak touching the West side of Banka Hill N W. | N., will clear the Melvill Bank, and when Laboh Point bears N.E. J N., by not shoaling under 10 fathoms, all the banks on both sides will be cleared. Lalarie Point N.W. by W. \ W. will also clear the north-eastern part of Smits Bank. The shoal patches on the Nemesis Bank should not be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms until Casuarina Point comes open of Lalarie Point, and in rounding the latter point take care not to come into a less depth than 10 LTTCIPAEA CHANNEL. 219 fathoms, as the bank is here steep-to. The Timbaga Rocks may also be avoided by following the same precaution, and from thence it is recommended to work up from Second Point along the Sumatra coast. From the Westward.— Proceeding through Stanton Channel from the westward, when abreast and IJ mile distant from Lalarie Point, an E.S.E. course will lead nearly mid-channel between the Nemesis Bank and the bank extending from the Banka shore, but when Panjang Hill bears N.E. a more southerly course must be shaped to pass in mid-channel. When Dahun Point bears North, the Mamelon or Hummock open of Pulo Besar N.W. (the clearing mark for the spit off Pulo Dahun, page 216), also leads directly through the channel. Working through from the westward in the S.E. monsoon, the same pre- caution must be taken as already mentioned to avoid the shoalest part of the Nemesis Bank, which will be passed when the Mamelon bears N. by E. J E. ; and should a strong flood tide be 'then running, it would be advisable to anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, sand, on the Nemesis Bank, as the water on both sides of it is deep, and wait for a change of tide, or the chance of the land breeze, which blows generally either during the night or early in the morn- ing from the Banka shore. When Panjang Hill bears N.E., Lalarie Point must not be brought to the northward of N.W. by W. \ W. to avoid Smits bank, and the same directions as already given in not approaching the banks under 10 fathoms until Laboh Point bears N.E. j N., will be quite sufficient to enable any vessel to work through. LTJCIPARA CHANNEL. — The South entrance to this channel is between Lucipara Island and Lucipara Point, nearly West, 9 miles distant from it. The western side of the channel (p. 193) is bounded by the mud flat which projects from the coast of Sumatra for 2 miles and more, and its eastern side by various hard and dangerous sandbanks, which narrow the breadth of the passage to IJ and 2 miles. Mr. Stanton is of opinion that this channel will, within a few years, be- come unnavigable for vessels of large draught, owing to the rapid extension of the mud flat projecting from the Sumatra coast on the western side, and to the extension, also of the sandbanks on the eastern side. Round Shoal. — The southern sandbank in this channel is nearly 2 miles long W N.W. and E.S.E., and about a mile broad, the least water, 1^ fathoms, being near the middle of it. From its southern edge, in 3 fathoms, the summit of Lucipara Island bears S.E. ^ E. 1\ miles, and from the western edge S.E. ^ E. 9 miles. The narrowest part of the Lucipara Channel is between the lightvessel off the western extreme of this bank and the mud flat extending from the Sumatra coast. LIGHTVESSEL. — In 1870 the Lucipara Channel Lightvessel, showing a fixed bright light, elevated 28 ft., and visible 10 miles off, was placed in the position formerly occupied by a buoy, in the narrowest part of the channel, 220 BANKA STRAIT. off the N.W. side of Round Shoal. She is painted yellow, and carries one mast with a black ball on the top. From the lightvessel, Green Point bears N.W. f N. 4A miles nearly, Lucipara Point S. by W. ^ W., and Lucipara Island summit, S.E. | E. 9 miles, Hindostan Bank extends from close to the eastern edoje of the Round Shoal N.N.W. ^ W. about 3-|- miles. The depths on the southern and middle parts of it are 1 to 3 fathoms, but about three-quarters of a mile from its northern extreme is a patch of hard sand, with only 3 feet water over it. Merapie Shoal, the most northern of the banks on the eastern side of the Lucipara Channel, is composed, like the others, of hard sand, and is three- quarters of a mile in extent North and South, and more than half a mile broad. The least water on it is 2^ fathoms. From the middle of the shoal, False First Point is in line with First Point. In the Lucipara Channel the bottom is generally hard sand on the banks towards the eastern side, and soft mud on the western or Sumatra side ; yet close to the north-western edge of the Middle sand-bank the bottom is also soft, with 5^ and 6 fathoms. It is, therefore, advisable not to keep in too bard or in too soft bottom, but in the middle of the channel. Directions for Lucipara Channd from the Southward. — When bound towards Banka Strait from the southward, the Island of Lucipara is generally made between the bearings of N. by E. and N.W., and in 5'^ to 8 or 9 fathoms. With westerly winds it is advisable to keep on the western side of the chan- nel in 4f to 5J fathoms. In clear weather, when the Parmassang Range is visible, the highest peak on the western extreme of the range in line with First Point, N. by W. ^ W. will lead up to abreast the lightvessel. This mark should be left when Luci- para Island bears about E.S.E., or S.E. by E. ; then, by keeping the Mame- lon Hummock (page 202) on a N. f W. bearing, it will lead through between the bank off First Point and the Merapie Shoal, until Lalarie. Point is seen well open of First Point, when a vessel may begin to edge away to the westward to round First Point, taking care not to approach it nearer than a mile, as the bank projecting from the point is steep-to, especially on its N.E. side. After rounding First Point at not less than that distance, a N.W. ^ W. course will lead midway between False First Point and the Nemesis Bank. From, the Northward. — Entering Lucipara Channel from the northward, First Point must be rounded with great caution, on account of its being steep-to, especially on its north-eastern side, and it must not be approached nearer than a mile ; at the same time, if the tide is running to the south- eastward, it will be necessary to use proper care that, in giving a safe berth to First Point, the vessel is not set too near the Merapie Shoal, which the tide will be likely to do unless guarded against. When Mamelon Hummock LUCIPAEA CHANNEL. 221 bears N. f W., keep it so, until Lucipara is S.E. by E., or E.S.E., when Parmassang Peak may be brought in line with First Point, N. by W. I W., which will lead clear of the Sumatra Bank ; or a S.E. by E. course may be steered, which will lead midway between Lucipara and the main. Working through this channel, a vessel may stand toward the Sumatra Bank safely by attending carefully to the lead, remembering not to go into less than 6J fathoms when near the elbow projecting just to the southward of Green Point. Lucipara must not be approached nearer than 2 miles, when bearing to the northward of N.E. by E. ; between the bearings of N.E. by E. and E. by S. it may be approached to a mile. Careful attention to the lead and a good look-out will also give sufficient warning when standing towards the banks on the eastern side. Caution. — Many vessels passing through the Lucipara Channel have grounded on the mud flat extending from the coast of Sumatra, especially a short distance to the southward of Green Point, where the flat extends far- ther out, and all have been obliged, before they could get off, either to trans- ship or to throw a part of the cargo overboard, as the anchors which were laid out on the soft muddy bottom to heave them oflP came home. This part of the flat shoals suddenly from 6 to 3 fathoms, and therefore should never be approached to a less depth than 6A- fathoms. It will also be necessary to use great caution when working through this channel from the southward, and standing to the eastward, to avoid being set on the banks by the tides, which sweep over them with great strength. In wofking through this channel from the northward, similar caution is required. With light winds it is very difficult to get into the northern entrance, the tides sweeping vessels away to the south-eastward amongst the banks. Directiom from Lalarie Point through Banha Strait. — Having passed through, either Stanton or Lucipara Channels, and brought Lalarie Point to bear about East, distant 3 miles, a N.N.W. f W. course for about 10 miles will lead midway between the rocky bank of 7 or 8 fathoms water, lying north- westward of the Timbaga Rocks, and the mud-bank projecting from Second Point. Continuing the same course for 6 or 7 miles further, the vessel will be 1^ to If 'mile outside the horn or spit projecting from the Sumatra Flat (page 194). Still continuing the same course for another 14 or 15 miles Third Point will bear S.W., distant about 2 miles. If a vessel following this track, after having passed Second Point, should shoal the soundings under 6 fathoms, she wiU be getting too near the Suma- tra Flat, and should haul out more to the eastward ; remembering that Second Point must not be brought eastward of S. by E. f E. until Par- massang Peak bears E.S.E., to clear the spit or horn projectino' from the bank. From the above position ofi" Third Point, a W. by N. I N. course may be 222 BANKA STEAIT. steered for about 28 or 29 miles, which, if the vessel be not affected by- tides or currents, will place her in a position from which Fourth Point will bear about S.E. f S. distant 7 miles, and Monopin Hill N. i E. t» N. JE. From thence steer about N.W. by W. for Batakarang Point— paying par- ticular attention to the tides, which frequently set strong into or out of the Palembang Eivers (pp. 191-2) — and the vessel will soon pass over a narrow bank of sand, having 7 fathoms on it, and again deepen the water to 13 and 16 fathoms. Having run 15 or 16 miles, the soundings will again de- crease under 10 fathoms, and she will be on the edge of the bank extending from Batakarang Point, and may proceed along the edge of it in from 8 to 6 fathoms; the directions given at page 214 must then be followed to pass westward of the Frederick Hendrick Rocks, which channel is recommended as being the best and safest, especially at night. Through Banla Strait from the Northward. — A vessel having passed the Toedjoe, or Seven Islands, and steering to the southward for the entrance of Banka Strait, will find no difiiculty in clear weather in fixing her position which can be readily done by cross bearings of Mount Punyabung or Saddle Hill, and Monopin Hill ; under such circumstances the strait can be entered on either side of the Frederick Hendrick Pocks by attending to the directions given at page 214. But in thick weather it often happens that no land can be seen until the vessel has arrived very near to the entrance of the strait, and at such times it is important to get hold of the bank extending from the Sumatra coast, and then proceed along its edge in 8 to 6 fathoms, carefully attending to the lead. Sometimes Monopin will be seen, but no other land, in such case it will be prudent to proceed as before, keeping along the edge of the bank. Working through Banha Strait. — Directions have been given in pages 217-18 and 220, for working into the strait from the southward, and in page 214 for working into it from the northward by the channels on either side of the Frederick Hendrick Eocks ; it may, however, be as well to remark again here that the passage westwai-d of the Frederick Hendrick Shoal is much to be preferred at night, or when the land is obscured and reliable bearings cannot be obtained. The bank fronting the Sumatra coast may be conveniently approaced when well between the points, by common attention to the lead ; but off' the pijints and for a few miles on either side of them great attention must be paid to the soundings. The most dangerous part of the bank is from Fourth Point for about 6 miles to the westward of it, which must be approached with the utmost caution. Mr. Stanton strongly recommends vessels working in either direction through the strait, or proceeding through with a fair wind and_^contrary tide, to avoid the Sumatra coast and keep on the Banka shore, between Lalarie LUCIPARA CHANNEL. 223 Point and Tanjong Tadah. He observes that hitherto it has been the cus- tom for all ships to work along the Sumatra coast, where they have not only a strong wind but a constant current to contend with, consequently, sailing vessels have been delayed two or three weeks, and instances are known of vessels being a month making the passage through Banka Strait, whereas a smart sailing vessel, by keeping on the Banka side, taking advantage of the tides, and following the directions given below, may make the passage even in the full strength of the monsoon in three or four days. The advantages gained by keeping on the Banka coast are as follows : — A vessel may carry a fair tide all the way through by stai-ting from either extremity at low water, as the tidal waves from the China and Java Seas meet near the Nangka Islands ; prominent hills and points, with a gradual decrease in the soundings, give confidence to mariners when steering for the land ; a strong land wind will be generally experienced during the night, when the regular monsoon is blowing in the middle of the strait and near the Sumatra coast ; and in the strength of the monsoon regular tides will be met with on the Banka shore, while strong currents will invariably be found set- ting to leeward along the Sumatra shore. From the Soidhward — In working between Lalarie Point and the Nang- ka Islands, the lead is a good guide, as the soundings decrease regularly, except near Lalarie Point and the Timbaga Pocks, where they decrease rather suddenly from a depth of 10 fathoms ; if, however, Lalarie Point is not brought South of S.E. ^ S. until Brani Peak bears E. by N, | N., a ves- sel will keep clear of all danger near the Timbaga Rocks. Having arrived within 3 miles of the Great Nangka, the spit extending from the South end of that island should not be approached under a depth of 7 fathoms ; and to avoid the rocky ledges extending from Middle and West Nangka, West Eeef (6 ft. above water, page 205), should not be brought to the westward of North after the peak of Great Nangka bears N.E., until the vessel is to the north- ward of the Nangka Group, From the Nangka Islands to Tanjong Tadah the shore may be safely ap- proached by the lead, as the soundings are shoal with a gradual decrease. When Tanjong Tadah bears N.E. f N. (which clears the eastern side of the Brom-Brom Eeef), vessels should cross over towards Fourth Point on the Sumatra coast. From the Northioard. — Coming from the northward, it is merely necessary to reverse the order of the above directions. Vessels should keep towards the Sumatra coast until past Fourth Point, which they should not approach nearer than 3 miles. When Tanjong Tadah bears N.E. f N., they may cross over to the Banka side, taking care not to bring that point to the eastward of the above bearing. From Tanjong Tadah to the Nangka Islands they may stand in-shore guided by the lead ; but having arrived abreast of the latter, take care" not to bring West Eeef to the westward of North, until the peak of 224 NOETHERN COASTS OF BANKA. Great Nangka Island bears N.E., and not approach the spit off the South end of the island under 7 fathoms. From 2^- miles South of the Nangka Islands the shore may be approached by the lead to any convenient depth of water, but when Brani Peak bears E. by N. ^ N. the vessel will be nearing the Timbaga Rocks, and must not then come under 10 fathoms. Lalarie Point bearing S.E. | S. clears all the dangers near the Timbaga Pocks, and the point should not be brought to the southward of that bearing until Casuarina Point bears East. From thence to Lalarie Point the shore may be again approached by the lead ; but when nearing the point the soundings decrease more suddenly, and a vessel should not go into a less depth than 10 fathoms, and should round the point at the distance of about 1^^ mile. From thence she can proceed to the southward through either the Stanton or Lucipara Channels, according to the directions at pages 217 — 219 and 222. NORTHEEN COASTS OF BANKA. BTJLO, or Jibuse Bay. — The N.W. coast of Banka is 43 miles in extent, from Tanjong Oelar to Tanjong Malalu, the bay of Bulo or Jibuse occupy- ing more than half of that space. From Tanjong Biat (p. 212), the south- western point of the bay, to Tanjong Ginting, its north-western point, the direction is about N.E. f N., and the distance 17^ miles ; the depth of the bay is 7 miles. The whole of this bay is shallow to a distance of 3 miles from the shore, except to the southward of Ginting Point, where the shoals do not appear to extend farther than a quarter of a mile. The rivers Bulo and Jibuse disem- bogue in its N.E. part. The bay is much visited by coasters, and occasion- ally by larger vessels, for the purpose of loading tin. The anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms, on soft muddy bottom, with Ginting Point N. by E. J E., Songi Bulo E. i S., and the watering place N.E. by E. 5 E. ; or in 5 fathoms off the Bulo River, with the village N.E. ^ E., and Ginting Point N. by W. f W., 3 miles from the shore. Water — Fresh water can be obtained in a small bay about li- mile to the eastward of Tanjong Ginting. — Commander J. W. King, R.N., says it is brackish. TANJONG GINTING, the N. VV. point of Bulo Bay, is a long, low point, having a reef projecting 2 miles from it, close to which are 8 fathoms water. The position of the point may be easily recognized by the three hills, Paree, Funyabung, and Jerankat, which at a great distance appear like islands. The first, 858 ft. high, is the most southern one of the three, and rises 4 miles East of the point ; Punyabung, a remarkable saddle-shaped hill, 794 feet high, very conspicuous from seaward, rises close to the coast, about 3 milea KLABAT BAY. 225 south-eastward of Ginting Puiut ; Jerankat, 657 ft. high, is about 4 miles E.N.E. from Punyabung. The Coast between Grinting Point and Punyabung Hill forms a small bay, which appears to be nearly filled with rocks. It then trends E.N.E. about 18 miles to Tanjong Melalu. The whole coast between Punyabung Hill and Tanjong Melalu is fronted by a reef which projects 1 or 2 miles from the shore. Malan Hyu, Malan Boyang, and Malan Guntur, are three rocks lying off the coast between Tanjong Dugong and Tanji>ng Melalu. Malan Hyu is about the size of a boat, and covered with white guano. It lies about 3 miles North from Tanjong Dugong. Malan Doyang is not much above water, and only the size of Malan Hyu. it lies about 3 miles off shore, with Punya- bung Hill S.W. J S. Malan Guntur is nearly midway between Malan Doyang and Tanjong Melalu, and about a mile off shore. It is larger than the other two rocks, and lies within the limit of the shoal water pro- jecting from the coast. All these rocks appear to be surrounded to a short distance by sunken rocks ; and a sunken rock lies southward of Malan Doyang, midway between it and the shore. ZLABAT BAY.— Ta)iJo>ig Melalu, in lat. 1° 31^' S., long. 105° 38i' E., is the western point of entrance of Klabat Bay, and upon it is a pretty high hill, known as Mount Melalu. Here the N.W. coast of Banka terminates, as the coast line on the other side of entrance of Klabat Bay trends to the eastward, and forms the North shore of the island. Klabat Bay runs up into Banka Island about 27 miles in a S.E. direction, but being encumbered with many rocks and shoals, there is only a narrow passage left, of 4 or 5 fathoms water, by which vessels of heavy burden pro- ceed as far as the mouth of the Lyang Eiver. Over the inner end of the bay hangs the highest of the Banka Mountains, called Gunong Marass, or Maradi. This beautiful mountain is easily recognized by its three peaks, the summits of which may often be seen when passing through Banka Strait, presenting somewhat the appearance of a crown. The highest of the peaks, 2,320 it. high, is in lat. 1° 61' S., and long. 105° 53' E. Tanjong Penyusu, the eastern point of Klabat Bay, is a long, low projec- tion, with an islet and some rocks extending nearly 2 miles from it. Karang Trasseh Laout is a reef with only 2 or 3 fathoms water over it, and 10 and 11 fathoms around it, lyiug about 3 miles N.W. J N. from Tan- jong Punyusu. From the reef the West point of Punyusu Islet is in line with the hill near Monkubur Point, bearing S.S.E., Moncudu Islet East, and Mount Melalu S.W. by W. \ W. Vessels coming to Klabat Bay for cargoes of tin, usually anchor outside the entrance, between its eastern point and the Trassie Eeef, in 9 J or 10 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, having Punyusu Islet in line with Mount I. A. 2 G 226 BANKA STEAIT. Harass S.S.E. i E., Klabat Hill S.S.W. ^ W., Melalu Point W. by S. i S., and Moncudu Island E. J N. The Coast from Tanjong Punyusu takes, with a slight curve inland, a direction about E. by N. for 10 miles, to a point abreast of a small islet named Fulo Moncudu; and from thence East for 2^ miles to Tanjong Crassok, the northernmost point of Banka, in lat. 1° 29' S., long. 105° 56^' E. Many rocks lie close to this part of the coast, and shoal water extends nearly a mile from it. From Tanjong Crassok the coast trends to the south-eastward, forming the N.E. coast of Banka. A reef, having 2 fathoms water over it, lies about 2 miles off shore, with Moncudu Islet bearing East, and Gunong Chundong S.E. ^ S. Eocks are also marked on the chart, one at 3 miles E.S.E. from Tanjong Crassok, and another at 2i miles farther to the south-eastward, and 1^ mile off shore. ( 227 ) CHAPTEE VI. GASPAR STRAIT. The channels between Banka and Lepar on the West and Billiton to east- ward are collectively known as the Strait of Gaspar. Captain Huddart says that the first ship which passed through was the Macclesfield galley, Capt. Hurle, in March, 1702. This is the westernmost channel. The name Gaspar is that of the Spanish commander from Manila, who passed through it in 1724. Besides the first-named channel westward of Pulo Leat, there is a second, called the Middle Pass, on the eastern side of that island. The third is the Clements Channel, named after the Commodore of the homeward bound English East India Fleet, in 1781, which passed through between, the islets south-eastward of Pulo Leat ; and the fourth, the Stohe Channel, to the eastward of these islets, is named after the Dutch officer who first surveyed it. Of these the first and fourth are most used, as will be explained presently. Banka or Gaspar Strait ? — From the earliest times of our China commerce Gaspar Strait has been preferred to Banka Strait, by ships coming from China. But it is of much more dangerous approach, both from North and South, and the new and excellent Stanton Channel in the latter may lead to a preference being given to it. Upon this subject the following is given in the China Sea Pilot. Banka Strait possesses unquestionable advantages over those of Gaspar and Carimata, and is without doubt the best and safest route into the China Sea. Although of much greater length, and not so direct for vessels bound to China as Gaspar Strait, yet it is manifestly superior to that strait ; for it is easy and safe of approach. It affords convenient anchorage in every part, which enables vessels to avail themselves of favourable winds and tides ; and it leads into a part of the China Sea free from danger. Gaspar Strait, on the contrary, is difficult and dangerous of approach, rocks and shoals ex- tending for 35 miles to the southward. The depths of water are too great to afford convenient anchorage ; and it conducts into a part of the China Sea 228 GASPAR STEAIT. very imperfectly explored, and abounding with hidden dangers, amongst ■which vessels are liable to be set by uncertain currents. No serious accident has occurred within the last few years to vessels passing through Banka Strait ; whereas many fine ships, with valuable cargoes, have been lost in or near Gaspar Strait. For vessels proceeding to Singapore there can be no doubt that Banka Strait is in all respects to be preferred, and it has in fact become the recog- nized highway of the trade passing between Sunda Strait or Batavia, and Singapore. But for ships to China, Gaspar Strait being shorter and more direct, is still preferred, and will no doubt continue to be by many navi- gators, especially those who are anxious to make quick passages, even at the expense of incurring additional risk. It is certain that a vessel arriving off the entrance of Banka or Gaspar Strait in the morning, and favoured with a commanding breeze, would gain some advantage in point of time by passing through the latter ; but in calms and light airs, or against the N.E. monsoon, there is good reason to believe that vessels will make quick, and often quicker passages, by proceeding through Banka Strait, and they will always be assured of much greater safety. In thick or bad weather, it is possible to proceed through Banka Strait without risk ; but Gaspar Strait can never be approached at such times without incurring considerable danger. The fast clipper ships, which every season contend for the honour of land- ing the first of the year's teas in England, usually proceed through Gaspar Strait, as do most homeward-bound ships, to whom saving of time is of the first importance, and there can be no doubt but they will continue to do so in preference to the more circuitous, although much safer, route of Banka Strait. Until, however, the correct positions of the shoals and dangers known to exist to the northward of Gaspar Strait are determined, and this space properly explored, vessels must keep a vigilant lookout when ap- proaching the strait from the northward, and be prepared for the possibility of meeting with some danger not marked on the charts. Nor must they relax their vigilance when getting near to Pulo Leat, and when passing through the strait. No opportunity should be lost of determining the ship's exact position ; and the greatest attention should be paid to ascertaining the Bet of the current, and to guard against its effects. Many fine ships have been lost in Gaspar Strait — not a few on the Alceste Eeef, from wrongly estimating their distance from the land ; but in the majority of instances from causes which might have been guarded against by the exercise of due care and judgment. Gaspar Strait was surveyed in 1854 by the officers of the United States Navy attached to an exploring expedition. The territory on either side of the strait being in possession of the Dutch, the names in strict propriety should be in accordance with that orthography. DANGEES SOUTH WAED OF GASPAR STRAIT. 229 But as the strait is a common highway for the whole world, only those names which might be otherwise ambiguous will be thus denoted. BILIITON ISLAND, or in Malay Blitung, is only one-half the size of Banka, but it resembles it in its geographical structure and in the produc- tion of tin, which is worked by a Dutch company. This is the south-eastern- most extremity of the mining fields for this important metal, the northern- most being at Tavoy, on the Tenasserim coast, a range of 20 degrees of latitude. The following description of and directions for the strait are taken from the China Sea Pilot. DANGERS SOUTHWARD OF GASPAR STRAIT. Dangerous shoals extend for about 35 miles to the southward of Gaspar Strait, rendering great caution necessary when approaching the strait from that direction.* Sharpshooter Shoal. — The British merchant ship Belted Will, Captain Alexander Locke, in July, 1869, during her passage from Canton to London, slightly touched on a shoal patch lying S. |^ E., 34 miles from entrance point in Gaspar Strait. The ship was going 9 knots at the time, but the state of the weather, occasioned by the monsoon blowing very strong, prevented an examination of the danger beyond two casts of 9 fathoms, which were ob- tained shortl}' after the shoal was passed. Observations obtained on the same day, as well as the reckoning carried from Entrance point, place this patch in lat. 3° 3o' 35" S., long. 106'^ 56' E. Near this position the Sharpshooter Shoal, of 12 ft. water, and lying 12 miles W. f S. from the Hancock Shoal, was unsuccessfully searched for by Staff Commander Edward Wilds of H.M.S. Sivallow, in 1866. It is pro- bably the same danger, and the name has therefore been retained on the charts. HANCOCK SHOAL, in lat. 3^ 34i' S., long. 107° 4' E., is a small patch about a quarter of a mile in extent, but whether composed of sand or coral does not aj)pear on the chart. It has only 1 fathom of water over it, and 6 to 7 fathoms around it. HIPPOGRIFFE SHOAL was so named after an American ship lost on it. Mr. Wilds, R.N., in H.M.S. SwaUoiv, searched for the Hippogriffe Shoal, and found it in lat. 3° 23' 36" S., long. 106° 54' 30" E. It is a dangerous * Doubtful Dangers. — A doubtful rock was marked in former charts at 3f miles S.W. by W. 5 W. of the Hancock Shoal ; a small shoal of 6 feet water, named Mary Goddard, at 4^ miles S.S.E. of the Hancock ; but a careful search having been made for these dan- gers in May, 1866, by Mr. Wild-, Master commanding H.M. surveying-vessel Stcallow, without the slightest indication of their existence, thej' have been expunged from the chiirts. 230 GASPAR STRAIT. boulder rock, with only 3 ft. over it at low water, of circular shape, and about 150 ft. in diameter, having large branches of coral upon it. It was not seen until close to, and at the time it was examined there was not the slightest swell or ripple to indicate its position ; the weather being fine and clear, and the wind light from the S.S.E. Regular soundings of 8 fathoms, sand and shell, were found around it, and the water in that depth was of a pale colour. TURTLE SHOAL lies about 2 miles N.E. by E. from the Hancock Shoal, and is of about the same extent ; it has but 3 ft. water over it, and 8 to 12 fathoms around it. There are tide ripples over this shoal. LARABE SHOAL, in lat. 3° 33' S., long. 107° 10' E., and distant nearly 6 miles E. by N. | N. from the Hancock Shoal, is about a third of a mile in extent, having 3^ fathoms of water over it, and 5 to 8 fathoms around it. SAND ISLAND is the name given to a small patch of sand, just awash at high water, with 8 to 14 fathoms water around it, lying about 4 miles northward of the Larabe Shoal, in lat. 3° 29' S., long. 107° 9' E. At a mile E.N.E. from Sand Island is a shoal patch about a third of a mile in extent, having 2^ fathoms water over it, and 8 to 9 fathoms around it ; the tide also ripples over this bank. There is a danger, named Padang Reef, marked on the chart about 2 J miles W. ^ N. of Sand Island, but we have no information about it. MIDDLE REEF, lying N.N.E. | E. nearly 2^ miles from Sand Island^ appears to be a rock, just above water, on the North end of a small sand patch having 2 fathoms water over it, and 8 to 9 fathoms around it. ' BRANDING SHOAL {BreaUng, Dutch).— North-west, nearly If mile from Middle Reef, are two small patches occupying a space about two-thirds of a mile in extent, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and with 12 fathoms water between them. The western patch has 1 \ fathom water over it, the eastern one only 3 ft. ; all around them are 7 or 8 fathoms. FAIRLIE ROCK, in lat. 3° 27}' S., long. 106° 59' E., was discovered by the East India Coinpany's ship of that name grounding upon it in 1813. It is of coral, about a cable's length in diameter, nearly awash at low water, and 6 or 7 fathoms close around it. The sea breaks over the rock, and all around are overfalls caused by the rocky and uneven character of the bottom. From it Entrance Point, the south-eastern extreme of Pulo Lepar, bears N. by W. h W., distant 26^ miles, and Shoal-water Island N.E. by E. 15 miles, and just in sight from the deck of a large ship ; therefore, to avoid this rock, Shoal-water Island must, from the deck of a large ship, be sunk below the horizon by the time it bears N.E. by E., this island being the only land distinctly visible from the rock. SHOAL-WATER ISLAND and SHOALS form a group amongst which it would not be prudent to venture. Shoal-water or EinUeton Island, in lat. 3° 19i' S., long. 107" llf E., is a little more than half a mile in diameter, BLAS MATEU EOCK. 231 and from it Middle Eeef bears S. f W., distant 8 miles. Hancock is a small islet, lying N.E. ^ N., three-quarters of a mile from Shoal-water Island. Dangerous reefs surround both these islands, among which are some deep but very narrow and intricate channels. From Shoal-water Island a reef extends from half to three-quarters of a mile, on its S.E., South, and S. W. sides ; and about half a mile off its West side is a small detached reef, having 10 fathoms between it and the reef bordering that side of the island. Off its East side reefs extend nearly 1^ mile. The reefs surrounding Hancock Island are separated from those around Shoal-water Island by a very narrow channel, with depths of 6 to 10 fathoms on it. On the N.E. side of Hancock the reef extends about a third of a mile, and on its N.W. side about three- quarters of a mile, with some rocks above water on its outer edge. One-fathom Patch. — A patch having but 1 fathom water over it, and 7 to 9 fathoms around it, lies W. J N. nearly 2 miles from Shoal- water Island. Embleton Rock is just above water on the N.W. extreme of a bank of hard sand, which nearly dries, distant 2 miles N.N.W. f W. from Shoal-water Island; there are 12 to 14 fathoms around it. Bliss Shoal, lying N.E. by E. nearly a mile from Embleton Eock, and N. f W. 2i miles from Shoal-water Island, is about a third of a mile in ex- tent, N.W. and S.E. ; it has only a quarter of a fathom water over it, and 6 to 14 fathoms at a short distance from it. There appear to be no dangers between the reefs contiguous to Shoal- water and Hancock Islands, or between One-fathom Patch, Embleton Eock, and Bliss Shoal, the soundings being from 6 to 14 fathoms ; but vessels had better keep well outside, as there is nothing to be gained by venturing among those dangers. BLAS MATEU ROCK is said to lie right in the fairway track of vessels proceeding through Gaspar Strait by the Macclesfield Channel. The American surveyors searched for it without success, but their chart does not exhibit many soundings in that vicinity, and it would be very unsafe to disregard its reputed existence in the face of the following circumstantial account : — The Bias Eock was first discovered on September 23, 1839, by the Spanish brig San Joaehim, Captain Bias Mateu. Having anchored in 12 fathoms, coarse sand, he took the boat and found three rocks, each about 10 ft. in diameter. Upon the northei*n rock he had 9 ft., on the southern 12 ft., and on the western 17 ft. water, and between them passages of 4^ fathoms. Shoal-water Island bore E. \ N., the opening between the two hill on Lepar Island N.N.W. ^ W., and the latitude determined by the sun's meri- dian altitude 3° 20' 38" S. The whole extent of the three rocks is about half a cable's length, and round them the depths were 12, 13, and 14 fathoms; but there was reason to believe that there were more rocks, because the chain parted while the anchor was being weighed. 232 GASPAE STRAIT. Another Spanish captain, M Aldon, who examined these rocks afterwards, gives them a similar description, and states that the light colour of the water over them was distinctly visible at a considerable distance N.N.W. of them. He places them in 3° 21' S., with Fairlie Rock S.S.E. % E., Shoal-water Island East, and the hills of Lepar Island N.N.W, To avoid this danger, Entrance Point must not be brought more to the westward than N. ^ W., when Shoal-water Island bears between E. ^ S. and E. i N. Sand Banks. — At 12 miles South of Entrance Point is a patch of 5 fathoms ; and at 2^ miles W. ^ S. of this is another of the same depth ; between them the depth is 7 fathoms. These spots appear to be on the eastern end of one of the long sand ridges which lie to the southward of Banka (page 200), probably an extension of the strip upon which is shown the following sounding of 4^ fathoms. A Bank, in 3° 19' S., with 4^ fathoms water, lies South from a remarkable hummock in Banka ; and there are two other banks of 5 fathoms, from which a hummock upon the low long point of Baginda bears N.N.W. i W, To avoid these banks, the low land which unites the hills of Banka, must be kept from a vessel's deck below the horizon, till Entrance Point bears N. by W., when a vessel may steer towards the strait ; taking care not to bring thia point more to the northward than N. by W. or N. ^ W. VANSITTART SHOALS are a collection of rocky patches divided into groups, lying between the bearings of S.E. ^ E. and E. f S., distant about 12 miles from Entrance Point, and extending from lat. 3° 10' to 3*^ 4' S. At their southern part are two patches, lying E. ^ S. and W. ^ N. from each other, their inner edges being about 2^ miles, and their outer edges nearly 3^ miles apart. From the western patch of 1^ fathom water, Entrance Point bears N.W. i W. 12 miles. Shoal- water Island S.E. i E. 14 miles, and Barn Island N.N.E. J E. 12 miles ; from the eastern patch of only 3 ft. water, Shoal- water Island bears S.E. J S. 11^ miles, and Barn Island N. by E. iE. U miles. Nearly the centre of the space occupied by these shoals are a group of patches extending N.E. and S.W. about a mile, some having but 1 fathom over them, and one patch, the north-eastern, dries at low water. The patches at the northern end of the shoals lie close together, and extend in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, about 2^ miles. One or two of thorn are dry, and others have but 3 ft. water over theoi at low tides. Erooi the S.W. patch, which dries. Barn Island bears N.N.E. h E., distant 6^ miles ; the South extreme of Saddle Island is open of the South extreme of Low Island, N.E. by E. i E. ; and Pulo Jelaka bears N. by W. f W. 13 miles. From the N.E. patch, of 2 fathoms water. Low Island is distant 2-J miles, with its South extreme in line with the middle of Saddle Island, bear- GEORGE B/VNKS. 233 ing N.E. by E. ; and Sand Island is just open of the East extreme of Piilo Leat, bearing N. ^ "W. The marks to clear the Vansittart Shoals are given hereafter. GEORGE BANKS is the name given, on the American chart, to four or five patches, under a depth of 5 fathoms, lying southward and south-westward of the western Entrance Point. The southern extreme of one of these patches, which is about H mile long North and South, half a mile broad, and has 3 fathoms water on it, lies S.W. § W. 4 miles from Entrance Point. About a mile S.W. of this patch is another, but smaller one, of 3J fathoms water ; and 5 miles S.W. by W. i W. from this last patch, or S.W. i W. 9 miles from Entrance Point, is a patch ot 3J fathoms water, but this latter lies quite out of the ordinary track of vessels. All these patches lie within the edge of the 10-fathoms line, which, passing Entrance Point about Ij mile oj6F, runs with an irregularly curved outline to the south-westward. A bank, under a depth of 10 fathoms, 9 or 10 miles long, which assumes on the chart the form of a shoulder of mutton, N.E. and S.W., with its small end to the north-eastward, lies nearly 2 miles outside the 10-fathoms line extending from Pulo Lepar. Between it and the shore banks the depths are 13 to 17 fathoms. Two-and-a-half Fathoms Bank. — ^About the middle of the above shoulder of mutton bank, and about a mile from its eastern or outer edge, is a patch of only 2 1 fathoms water. This was formerly known as the George Bank, because the ship Royal George had, in 1813, passed over its edge in 5^ fathoms. It was afterwards explored by Capt. D. Eoss. From it Entrance Point bears N. \ W., distant 6| miles ; and Baginda Peak, on Banka Island, W. by N. I N., 121 miles. To avoid this bank, keep the high trees near Klippige Point, or Eocky Point Hill, open to the eastward of Entrance Point. About 2 miles West of the 2^-fathom8 bank is a small patch with 5 fathoms water over it. Two-fathoms Patch. — It would appear from the following report of Capt. Keay, of the ship Falcon, March 13th, 1862, that a patch having but 2 fathoms water over it, lies about 3 miles to the southward of Round Island, off the South point of Pulo Lepar : — Clear, light, northerly, and smooth sea ; steering towards Entrance Point, Caspar Strait ; Round Island bearing N. ^ W. by compass,' apparently 3 miles distant, the Falcon drawing 18 ft., ran aground on a small sand patch, with 12 ft. least water over it, the diameter of the shallowest part being about 30 ft. The position of this was not properly ascertained by cross- bearings, but it seems as if it was not one of the previously known shoals off the entrance of the Lepar Strait. I. A. 2» 234 GASPAE STEAIT. MACCLESFIELD CHANNEL. The approacli to the Macclesfield Channel, the westernmost of those through Gaspar Strait from the southward, is bounded on the eastern side by the Hippogriffe Shoal, the position of the Doubtful dangers (page 229), the Fairlie Rock, and the Vansittart Shoals ; and on the western side by the outermopt of the George Banks. The Bias Mateu Eock, if it exists, lies right in the fairway. The Sharpshooter, Hancock, and Turtle Shoals, may be said to form a point, from which the shoals already mentioned as bounding the eastern limit of approach to Macclesfield Channel diverge in one direction, whilst those forming the western limit of approach to Stolze and Clements Channel diverge in another ; these last may also be said to form the eastern limits of the southern entrance to Macclesfield Channel, as vessels may stand to the eastward of the Fairlie Eock over towards them, if they should find it con- venient to do so. EAST COAST of BANKA.— From Tanjong Baginda (page 199), th& south-western limit of Gaspar Strait, the coast of Banka turns sharp to the northward, and after running 4 miles in a northerly direction, forms a large bay, the northern limit of which is Brekat Point, which is also the north- western limit of Gaspar Strait. There are several rivers upon this part of the coast, the principal of which, the Medang, is sometimes visited by coasters, but little is known of it. LEPAR STRAIT, between Banka and Pulo Lepar, is 6 or 7 miles wide at the entrance, but narrows to less than 2 miles some 4 or 5 miles within. The entrance appears from the chart to be barred, although there seems to be deep water inside. It is said to be so crowded with small islands and reefs, as to be available only for small coasters. The most southern of these islands, named ISugar-loaf, is very conspicuous, rising to a peak 650 ft. high. PULO LEPAR is an irregularly shaped island, about 12 miles in diameter, lying close off the southern part of the East coast of Banka. On its southern part are several ranges of hills of moderate elevation, viz : Six Peak Ranges 781 ft. high; Maroon Rill, 850 ft. ; Four Peah Range, 750 ft. ; and two hiUs not named on the chart, 650 ft. high ; further to the westward is a hill, 700 feet high, named False Sugar-loaf. Entrance Point, the south-eastern extreme of the island, is in lat. 3° 1|' S., long. 106° 53' E. The land over it is hilly, and the point is bordered by a reef, extending 1 or 2 cables' lengths from it. Per gam or Round Island is a small islet surrounded by reefs, lying W.S.W. 2| miles from Entrance Point, and ab lut half a mile off the South coast of the island. False Rocky Point bears N. f E., distant 4 miles from Entrance Point. Immediately to the northward of it is a small stream named Eed Eiver. PULO LE-iT AND LTGHTnOUSE. 235 Rocky Point and Light. — Tmyong Lahoe, Klippige, or Rocky Point, the N.E. extreme of Pulo Lepar, is distant 1^ mile N. ^ E, from False Rocky Point. Eocky Point Hill, 622 ft. high, stands If mile to the westward of the point. The light on Rocky Point was first shown in October, 1870. It is affixed hright light, elevated 39 ft., and visible in every direction seaward 8 miles off. At 1| mile N.W. f W. from the lighthouse is Tree Point, from which the coast runs nearly straight to the north-westward for about 6 miles. Shore Reef. — The whole coast from Entrance Point to Tree Point is fronted by a reef, which at about 2 miles northward of Entrance Point, just to the southward of the entrance of Fresh-water River, extends ofi' to the distance of 1^ mile; it then runs nearly straight to the northward, and rounding Rocky Point at a quarter of a mile, turns to the north-westward, and beyond Tree Point projects but a short distance from the shore. Water. — To the northward of Entrance Point the coast forms a bay, in which are two small rivers. Vessels may anchor about a mile to the north- eastward of the point, abreast of which position is a sandy beach. Captain Ross watered here, and found the water a little tinged with a red colour, but it produced no pernicious effect upon the crew. KLIPPIGE SHOALS is the name given to three or four reefs, with rooks above water on them, and deep channels between them, lying off Rocky Point. The outer reef lies E. by N. | N. 2 miles from the point ; the southern reef, over which is a depth of 4 fathoms, lies E. i N., 2 miles from False Rocky Point. Close to these shoals are depths varying from 9 to 14 fathoms, and there appears to be a channel three-quarters of a mile wide, with 6 to 10 fathoms in it, between them and the shore, but it would be a very unwise proceeding for vessels to venture to use it. Discovery Rocks appear on the American chart as two rocks lying N.N.E. ^ E. 3f miles from Rocky Point, with a shoal bank extending nearly half a mile north-eastward of them. Close to the rocks and bank are 6 to 10 fathoms, with 13 to 15 fathoms at a short distance all around them. Capt. D. Ross, in the Discovery, was the first to determine the exact posi- tion of these rocks, and he says they have only 2 ft. least water over them. A rocky Patch, with only 3 ft. water over it, lies about l^ mile W. by S. from the Discovery Rocks. In the channel between the soundings are from 10 to 16 fathoms. There is also a 4-fathom patch lying midway between Rocky Point and the rocky patch, and a 4|-fathom bank 3^ miles N by W. from Rocky Point. PULO LEAT, or Middle Island, which separates Macclesfield Channel from Clements Channel, is about 5f miles long. North and South, and 4J miles wide. Upon it are several hills, 400 to 600 ft. high, which appear at a distance like a group of islands. 236 GASPAR STRAIT. LIGHT. — Pulo Jelaka is a small islet lying about a quarter of a mile north- westward of the West point of Pulo Leat, to which it is connected by a reef of rocks. Since the year 1870 a. fixed hright light has been shown from Pulo Jelaka over the Macclesfield Channel to the westward from N.E. by N. round by North and West to S.S.E. It is elevated 39 ft., and visible 8 miles off. A dangerous reef surrounds both Pulo Leat and Pulo Jelaka, in addition to which are numerous outlying rocks, in many places extending far from the shore. The South and S.W. coasts of Pulo Leat are fronted by a reef which pro- jects from the shore in a convex form to seaward for the distance of a mile. Off the S.E. point of the island are outlying rocks and dangers extending in a S. by W. \ W. direction, to the distance of nearly 2J miles. A rock also lies about three-quarters of a mile South of Jelaka, just outside the edge of the reef extending from the shore, but there are no other outlying reefs on the S.W. coast of the island. When three-quarters of a mile distant from Jelaka, outside the reef ex- tending from the shore, is a 3-fathoms patch ; and N.W. by W., more than a mile from that islet, is a rock near the water's edge, with 11 fathoms water between it and the shore reef. All along the N.W. shore of Pulo Leat, and at little less than 2 miles from it, are numerous outlying rocks and patches of reef, between which and the reef extending from the shore are some dry sand-banks.*' ALCESTE REEF.— The Alceste Rock, upon which H.M. ship of that name was wrecked in February, 1817, when returning from China with Lord Am- herst and suite, is the outer patch of a coral reef which projects N.N.W. nearly 2 miles from the North point of Pulo Leat, and has but 2 fathoms water on its shallowest part. It is the same reef upon which, in 1816, the Portuguese ship Amelia was wrecked, the remains of both her and the Alceste being still visible, with only a few yards between them, at the time the reef was surveyed by Captain D. Ross. The wreck of the Alcede was lying li mile from the North point of Leat, with the West point of Jelaka in one with the southern sand-bank West of Leat ; the northern sand-bank in one with a white rock which lies between Jelaka and the N.W. point of Leat and close to it ; and a white rock near the N.W. point open to the east- ward of a high tree on the centre of the eastern hill of Leat. Many ships have since been lost on this reef, or on some of the coral patches contiguous to it, and they have generally furnished bearings which * Captain Joass, of the British ship Lammermuir, reports that at 2*^ 20™ a.m., December Slst, 1863, when proceeding through the Macclesfield Channel, his vessel struck on a rock, the position of which, from bearings taken, is lat. 2° 53' S., long. 107° E. H.M.S. Rifleman has since searched for this rock, but could find no danger in the vicinity of the position ascribed to it. KILArAN AND SENIOE. 237 would show them to have been wrecked some distance from these dangers; but the wrecks of several of them have afterwards been found upon, or close to the Alceste Reef ; and two such wrecks, the Cornelius Haja^ and the Mem- 71071, have found a place on the American chart. There is good reason to be- lieve that there is no danger in the fairway of the Macclesfied Channel in this vicinity. A reef ia placed by Dutch authorities 2 miles E. by N. from Alceste Eeef, with only 6 ft. water. From a position three-quarters of a cable northward of the shoal, the northern point of Pulo Leat bears S.W., and the eastern point of Bulo Anak, or Selagin, S. by E. ^ E. The soundings round Alceste Eeef do not by any means afford a certain guide, although to the north-eastward they appear to be a few fathoms shoaler than elsewhere. Close-to on the West side are 17 fathoms, and from 15 to 21 fathoms at the distance of 1 or 2 miles ; close-to on the North side 12 fa- thoms, with 16 to 18 fathoms at 1 or 2 miles ; and close-to on the N.E. side 16 fathoms, with 12 to 17 fathoms at 1 to 2 miles. f KILAPAN and SENIOR are two hilly islands lying 2 or 3 miles North of Pulo Lepar. Kilapan is about 1^ mile in extent East and West, and a mile wide, and bears from Eocky Point light, N.W. by N. 6| miles. Senior is not quite so large as Kilapan, from which it bears W. by N. 2 miles. Wilson Bank, discovered by Captain Lestock Wilson, of the Carnatic, in February, 1787, has but 1 fathom water on its shoalest spot, although Capt. Wilson did not find less than 3 fathoms. From the 1 -fathom spot the ex- treme of Brekat Point, the N.W. point of Macclesfield Strait, bears N.N. W. \ W. 6| miles ; the hummock just inside the point, which is more conspicuous, bearing N.W. by N. The bank extends about a mile to the northward of the shoal patch, having 2f fathoms over that part of it ; to the southward it extends about a quarter of a ndle. Close-to on the East side are 13 or 14 fathoms, but to the N.N.E. 8 to 10 fathoms for about If mile, when the depths suddenly increase to 19 or 20 fathoms. The extreme of Brekat Point bearing * This vessel was reported to have struck on a rock in lat. 2° 441' S., long. 107° 1' E.— Horsburgh. t The barque Carl Eonneberg, Captain C. L. Lied, is reported to have struck upon a rock about 6 miles to the northward of the Alceste Eeef, in lat. 2"^ 42' S., long. 107° 5' E. It is said to be about a cable's length in circumference, having from 4 to 20 ft. water on it, and surrounded by depths of 19 fathoms. The American chart exhibits many soundings in the locality ascribed to this danger, which were obtained in searching for the rock on which the Cornelius Eaja was reported to have been wrecked, said to lie W.S.W., distant 4 miles from the reported position of the Lied Rock. llr. Richards, in H.M.S. Saracen, also searched for the Cornelius Haja Rock without discovering any danger in that locality : for these reasons the Lied Rock is not placed upon the Admiralty charts, and the wreck of the Cornelius Haja (as mentioned above) was subsequently found by the American surveyors upon the Alceste Reef. 238 GASPAR STEAIT. N.W. by N., or the hill over it N.W., leads a mile outside Wilson Bank, as does also the eastern extreme of Kilapan Island, bearing S. by W. I W. The same bearings also clear the elbow of Brekat Bank. Brekat Bank. — A long, narrow strip of bank, which appears to have from 3 to 4 fathoms water over it, and deeper water inside of it, runs in a S. by W. direction for 3 or 4 miles to the southward of Wilson Bank, and, passing about li mile westward of that shoal, forms to the northward, about a mile farther on, an elbow projecting to seaward, with Ij fathom water on it, and a small patch which dries at low water ; it then takes a N. by W. ^ W. direction, until it joins the bank extending from Brekat Point, which bears from the elbow N.N.W., distant 4 miles. The soundings in the channel between Brekat and Wilson Banks are 4^ to 8 fathoms. Near the elbow they decrease suddenly from 10 fathoms; there are 9 or 10 fathoms at 2^ miles eastward of the elbow, and 12 and 15 fathoms at a mile N.E. of it. BREKAT POINT, in lat. 2° 34' S., long. 106° 50' E., has a rock off it 28 feet high, and forms the eastern extreme of Banka, and the north-western limit of G-aspar Strait. The land from the inner part of the projecting point falls away to the southward, and has a hill or hummock 620 ft. high upon it. Immediately off the point are some rocks, and shoal water extends nearly a mile from it to the eastward. The point should not be approached nearer than 2 miles, the soundings off it being deep and irregular, 14 to 21 fathoms. AKBAE SHOAL. — The American ship Akhar struck, in 1843, upon a shoal having only 12 ft. water upon it, in lat. 2° 39' S., long. 107° 11' E. In the American chart the position of this shoal is marked doubtful, so that the American surveyors did not succeed in finding it. The ship Scaivfell reports that, on March 23rd, 1864, she passed close to the Akbar Shoal, which had apparently very little water on it, though no breakers, as the sea was quite smooth. It appeared to be a narrow ridge of coral, about 2 cables long, North and South, and not half a cable wide. Its position is given as 2° 38' S., long. 107° 13^' E. This places the shoal 3 miles N.E. by E. from the position ascribed to it by the Akhar ; in either case it is much in the way of vessels proceeding through Clements or Stolze Channels, and until its exact position is deter- mined, it will be necessary to keep clear of the localities in which it is re- puted to lie. TREE ISLAND [Bootnpjes Mland), distant 10 miles N.E. | E. from Brekat Point, and 7 miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Gaspar Island, is a barren rock, 40 ft. high, with two or three trees on the summit, giving it the appearance of a ship under sail, and making it visible 15 miles off. It is surrounded by a coral reef, and a rock about as high as a boat lies a third of a mile south-eastward of it. There is a cave upon this island where the Mahiys GASPAE ISLAND—TIDES AND CUEEENTS. 239 come to collect birds' nests, which are probably found also on the other islands. A detached coral reef lies more than half a mile N.E. of the island, and another about the same distance S.E. of it ; between these reefs and the one surrounding the island are narrow channels, with deep water. GASPAR ISLAND, or Pulo Gelassa, in lat. 2° 24|' S., long. 107° 3J' E., bears N. \ E. 24^ miles from the North point of Pulo Leat, and N.E. | E. nearly 17 miles from Brekat Point. Its centre rises to a peak 812 ft. high, which may be seen in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles, and is the principal mark for avoiding the shoals in sailing to or from the northern part of the strait. It is nearly surrounded by a reef, which projects from the South and East points of the island about a third of a mile. The West and North points are bold close-to. The soundings near the island are variable, 12 to 19 fathoms. Fresh water is to be found upon this island, but the chart does not point out the particular spot where it may be obtained. Glassa or Gelassa Rock, 24 ft. high, with some trees on it, and rocks^ contiguous to it, lies about a mile westward of Gaspar Island. It is sur- rounded by a reef extending about a third of a mile south-eastward and eastward from it, but not quite so far in other directions. Gaspar Island, Glassa Eock, and Tree Island, form the northern limit of Gaspar Strait. The Canning Eock, Warren Hastings Eeef, Belvidere Shoals, and other dangers, are described hereafter. TIDES and CURRENTS.— It is high water, full and change, in the Mac- clesfield Channel, at 2^ 30'", and the ordinary rise is only 4 ft. The Vmi- sittarth boat is roperted to have found at Tree Island a perpendicular rise of 18 it., between the hours of 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; but there is probably some mistake in this, as 12 ft. is an extraordinary rise in Banka Strait, into which some very large rivers disembogue. The currents greatly depend upon the strength of the monsoon. When* the monsoon is strong, the current will generally be found setting in the- same direction at the rate of 2 or 3 knots an hour, but aflFected somewhat by the tides. In light winds and calms the tides are seldom very regular. Directions from the Southward. — Proceeding towards the Macclesfield Channel during the S.E. monsoon, having passed the Two Brothers (^p. 185), steer N. by E. J E., or N.N.E., keeping midway between the Clifton Shoal and tlie Brouwers Eeefs. The depths in this track are pretty regular, 10 tO' 15 fathoms, soft bottom. In thick weather, or if uncertain of the vessel's position, the entrance of Gaspar Strait should be approached with great caution, keeping a good lookout for broken or shoal water. Be also guarded when in the vicinity of the Bias Mateu Eock, for although the American surveyors could not find that danger, yet, for reasons given at p. 231, it would be unsafe to conclude that it does not exist. The Six-peak 240 GASPAR STRAIT. range (the first clump of hills to the westward of Entrance Point) kept N. by W., will lead 3 miles westward of this rock, and when Baginda Peak bear N.W. ^ N., and the water has deepened from 8 or 9 to 11 or 15 fathoms, steer to the north-eastward until the highest trees on Klippige or Eocky Point, or Rocky Point Hill, are well open of Entrance Point, which will lead clear of the 2^-fathom bank. Being 3 or 4 miles to the northward of the Bias Mateu Rock, a N. i^ E. course — guarding against currents — for 14 miles, will lead about 5 miles eastward of Entrance Point, and in this track the depths Avill be 13 to 18 fathoms ; if the vessel gets too far to the eastward the water will deepen, and if to the westward, it will shoal to 12, 11, or 9 fathoms. Prom 5 miles eastward of Entrance Point, a North course for about 16 miles will lead nearly midway between the shoals West of Jelaka and the Discovery Rocks. In this track there will be from 14 to 25 fathoms till abreast of Klippige or Rocky Point, when there will be 23 or 24 fathoms, deepening to 30 or 33 fathoms between Pulo Jelaka and the Discovery Rocks, having passed which they will decrease to 25, 19, and 16 fathoms. The vessel will now have arrived in a position with Pulo Kilapan bearing S.W. by W., and the North point of Pulo Leat S.E. by E., and may steer N. by E. ^ E. for Gaspar Island, in which track she will have 16 to 21 fathoms. Since the survey of the sandbanks South of Banka by Mr. Stanton, it no longer appears dangerous to approach the coast to a less distance than 14 miles, and it might be convenient for a vessel to make Entrance Point on a N. by E. or N.N.E. bearing, and pass inside the 2^-fathom bank by keeping Klippige and Entrance Points in line. To work through from the Southward. — During the northern monsoon it is very difficult, almost impossible, to work through Gaspar Strait, even in the latter part of the monsoon, about March, when vessels are obliged to an- chor often on account of the faintness of the wind and the rapidity of the southerly current. In the southern monsoon vessels will often meet with light, variable winds, rendering it impossible for them to preserve a straight course. Macclesfield Channel does not afford convenient objects as marks to keep vessels clear of danger, but the following have been taken from the Ameri- can chart as being, so far as we are able to judge, the best that can be given for that purpose ; as, however, some of the objects are at a considerable distance from the dangers, navigators are cautioned not to depend too im- plicitly upon having made out, or being able to make out, such distant objects, but rather to rely upon a more general exercise of judgment, paying attention to the soundings, frequently referring to the chart, «S:c. It is indis- pensable that the greatest vigilance be observed, and careful regard had to the set of the tides and currents, in order to work a vessel safely through this dangerous channel. MACCLESFIELD CHANNEL. 2il Standing to the eastward. — A vessel having passed eastward of the Fairlie Eoek may stand on, keeping a good lookout, until she is about 2^ miles from Sand Island, or 1 mile from Branding Breakers, and will have from 13 to 7 fathoms water. Sand Island is just awash at high water, and Shoal- water Island, bearing N.N.E. i E., leads a mile to the westward of the Branding Breakers. Shoal-water Island should not be approached nearer than o miles, on account of the 1 -fathom patch lying about 2 miles westward of it. The Java Guide gives the following directions to clear the Vansittart Shoals : — " To avoid the Vansittart Shoals with a contrary wind, do not bring Entrance Point more to the westward than N.W. ^ N. before the peak of Saddle Island bears N.E. by E., or rather keep Leat Island a little to the eastward of North. When near the N.W. part of these shoals, the West end of Leat may be brought N. | W., but not more westerly, until South Island is open to the northward of Low and Saddle Islands. The northern extremities of these two islands, and the southern part of South Island in one, E. by N. % N., just clear the northern part of the shoals." It appears, however, by the American chart, that Entrance Point bearing N W., and the peak of Saddle Island N.E. | E., will keep a vessel nearly \h mile clear of the S.W. prong of the shoals. Leat Island a little eastward of North, seems rather an indefinite mark, unless it be known how much of the island is visible ; but, taking it to mean the highest point, viz., Putat Hill, 613 feet high, and which would appear from the southward nearly in the middle of the island, it should not be brought to the northward of N. ^ E., until the peak of Saddle Island bears N.E. i E., when it may be brought to bear North. The North extremes of Saddle and Low Islands in line, bearing N.E. by E. f E., clears the northern end of the shoals nearly a mile. Being to the northward of the Vansittart Shoals, Low Island must not be brought South of E. by S. J S., or Sand Island West of North, to avoid the shoals between those islands ; and to clear the patches lying southward of the S.E. point of Pulo Leat, keep Barn Island East of E.S.E., until Middle Point, or Putat Hiil, bears N. by W. \ W., when Barn Island may be brought to S.E. by E. i E., which will clear the reef extending from Middle Point. To clear the reefs South of Jelaka, the S.E. point of Leat should not be shut in by Middle Point, until Pulo Jelaka bears N.N.E. ; and to avoid the reefs westward of that islet, keep Middle Point East of E.S.E., until Jelaka bears East. Jelaka bearing East also leads northward of the Discovery Hocks. Having arrived 2 miles West of Jelaka, and to the northward of the Discovery Eocks, Entrance Point must not be brought West of S.S.W. j W., I. A. 2 I 242 GASPAR STRAIT. nor Klippige Point West of S.W. f S., until Pulo Kilapan bears W.8.W., which will lead outside the dangers extending from the N.W. coast of Leat, and 1^ mile to the northward of the Aleeste Reef. Rocky Point Hill in line with Tree Point, S.W. j S., leads about a mile north-westward of the Aleeste Reef. Standing to the westward. — To avoid the 2i-fathom bank, keep the high trees on Klippige or Rocky Point, or Rocky Point Hill, well open of En- trance Point, bearing N. by W. i W., or keep Entrance Point West of N. by W. i W., until Baginda Peak bears W. by N., when a vessel may stand over until Entrance Point bears N. by E. 1 E. To clear the Klippige Shoals, do not bring Entrance Point South of S.W. I S., until the right extreme of Pulo Kilapan bears N.W. by W., Klippige Point S.W. by W., or Pulo Jelaka N.E. by E., leads about half a mile northward of the Klippige Shoals. When standing towards the Discovery Rocks, do not bring Entrance Point South of S.S.W., or Klippige Point South of S.W. i S., until the right extreme of Kilapan bears W. by N. ^ N., or Pulo Jelaka, East, when a vessel will be northward of the dangers, and may stand westwards towards the bank into 10, or even 8 or 7 fathoms, until she nears Wilson Bank. The Saddles, two hills on the Banka coast, 912 It. high, bearing W.N. W., or the Padang Hills W. by N. i N., lead about 1:^ mile southward of the Wilson Bank ; and the extreme of Brekat Point, N.W. by N., leads more than half a mile eastward of that danger, and will also keep a vessel clear of the elbow when standing inshore between Wilson Bank and Brekat Point. Directions from the northward. — In the early part of the N.E. monsoon, northerly and north-westerly winds prevail about the entrance of G-aspar Strait, when strong south-easterly currents will generally be experienced between Gaspar Island and Pulo Leat. It appears certain that the frequent accidents happening to vessels in the vicinity of Aleeste Reef arise princi- pally from neglecting to guard against the effects of this current. A vessel, therefore, intending to proceed to the southward through Macclesfield Chan- nel, and having passed a mile or two eastward of Gas par Island, should steer to the south-westward until Gaspar Island bears N. by E. ^ E., upon which bearing it should be kept until Pulo Kilapan is S.W. by W., and the North point of Pulo Leat S.E. by E., when she will be in the fairway of the channel, and may steer South, carefully guarding against the effects of tides or currents by frequent cross bearings of the North point of Leat, Pulo Jelaka, Rocky Point Hill, or Pulo Kilapan. If a South course be preserved, when Pulo Kilapan bears West, Middle Point, the S.W. point of Leat, wiU be the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, and Rocky Point will bear S.W. by S., which latter bearing also leads dose to the East side of the Discovery Rocks. If, when Pulo Kilapan bears West, Middle Point be not open of Jelaka, the vessel will be too far to the eastward j and if Middle MACCLESFIELD THANNEL. 243 Point should be Tnore than the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, she will be too far to the westward. If, in consequence of light or baffling winds, it be found impossible to keep Gaspar Island N. by E. IE., but that as the vessel approaches Pulo Leat it is found to bear N. by E., or N. f E., great caution must be observed in passing Alceste Eeef, for Gaspar Island bearing N. ^ E. is the line of direc- tion of that danger, and to avoid it Pulo Kilapan must not be brought west- ward of W.S.W. until Pulo Jelaka bears South. Being in the fairway, with Pulo Kilapan bearing AVest, and Middle Point the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, Entrance Point will be just in sight bearing about S.S.W. A ship may continue the South course, but if there be any doubt of her posi+ion, it will be prudent to bring Entrance Point S.S.W. ^ W., which will lead through nearly in mid-channel between the Discovery Pocks and the dangers off Jelaka, the narrowest and most difficult part of the channel. But great care must be taken to preserve that bearing, Entrance Point being at so great a distance, that any error in the bearing would be extremely likely to lead into danger. Entrance Point bearing S.S.W. i W., leads about half a mile westward of the dangers off Jelaka, and the same point S.S.W. leads clear of the Discovery Rocks. When the S.E. point of Leat is open of Middle Point, the ship will be southward of the Discovery Rocks, and if she has been steering for Entrance Point, the course must be immediately altered to the south-eastward, until Entrance Point bears S.W. ^ S. — which leads eastward of the Klippige Shoals — when a South course may be again shaped until Entrance Point bears about W. ^ S. ; then steer S. ^ W. for 13 or 14 miles, or until Entrance Point is about N. by W. i W., and Baginda Peak N.W. f W., when the vessel will be in about 10 fathoms on the outer edge of the bank extending northward of the Bias Mateu Rock, and to clear that rock must steer about S.W. until the Six-peak range of hills on Pulo Lepar bears N. by W., when a S. by W, i W. or S.S.W. course may be shaped for the Two Brothers. To work through from the northward, it will generally be advisable to get over to the westward towards the Banka shore as soon as possible, where a vessel will be more in the fairway of the channel, and will find more conve- nient depths of water for anchoring, if it should be necessary to bring up. If, however, when to the southward of Gaspar Island, it should be found advantageous to stand well over to the eastward, it is not advisable that Gas- par should be brought more westward than N. by W., or N. by W. \ W., when nearing the doubtful position of the Akbar Shoal ; and the greatest care should be observed in rounding Alceste Reef, not to bring Pulo Kilapan westward of W.S.W. until Pulo Jelaka bears South. Standing to the westward. — Tree Island may be approached to about a mile, or until Gaspar Island bears N.E. \ E., which leads that distance clear of the dangers extending from it. Brekat Point bearing N.W. by N., will 244 GASFAE STEAIT. lead about half a mile eastward of the Elbow and of Wilson Bank, and a vessel will be to the southward of those dangers when the Saddles on Banka bear W N.W., or Padang Hills W. by N. | N., and may then stand on to the bank into 8 or 7 fathoms, until the North extreme of Pulo Kilapan bears W. by N. I N., which leads northward of the Discovery Eocks. Klippige or Eocky Point, S.W. ^ S., leads eastward of the Discovery Eocks, and also clears the shoals extending from the N.W. coast of Pulo Leat. Standing to the eastward towards Jelaka, take great care not to bring En- trance Point anything West of S.S.W. ^ W. until Middle Point is E.S.E., which leads southward of the dangers off Jelaka. Jelaka must then be kept East of N.N.E., until the S.E. point of Leat is in line with Middle Point, when it may be brought to bear North. To avoid the rocks off the S.E. point of Leat, do not bring Putat Hill, or Middle Point, West of N. by W. \ W., until Barn Island bears E.S.E. The East extreme of Pulo Leat bear- ing North will keep a vessel clear of the dangers extending from Sand Island, and Sand Island, if not brought to the West of N. ^ W., will clear the dan- gers to the southward of it and of Barn Island. Saddle Island in one with Low Island, bearing E.N.E., leads about three-quarters of a mile northward of the northern group of the Vansittart Shoals ; Putat Hill bearing North, or N. :| W., leads westward of the middle group ; the same hill N. \ E. leads westward, and Entrance Point N.W. to the southward of the S.W. group. Shoal-water Island should not be approached from the westward nearer than 4 or 3 miles ; bearing N.N.E. ^ E., it will lead a mile westward of the Branding Breakers. The Padang, Turtle, and Hancock Shoals may be approached to a mile, if a good lookout is kept when in their vicinity. Standing to the tvestward when southward of the Discovery Eocks, the right extreme of Kilapan bearing N.W. f W., or Entrance Point S.S.W. ^ W., clears the northern cluster of the Klippige Shoals ; but when Eocky Point bears West, Entrance Point should not be brought South of S.W. ^ S. After passing Entrance Point, keep the high trees on Eucky Point, or Eocky Point Hill, open of Entrance Point, or keep Entrance Point West of N. by W. i W., until Baginda Peak bears W.N.W., to clear the 2^- fathom bank. ' CLEMENTS CHANNEL. This channel is much narrower and more encumbered with dangers than either the Macclesfield or Stolze Channels. It is separated from the former by the four small islands, which from their appearance are respectively named Low, Saddle, Sand, and Barn, and by Pulo Leat, which form its western limit. To the eastward, it is only separated from Stolze Channel by South, North, and Table Islands, three small islands lying close together, so LOW AND SADDLE AND SOUTH ISLANDS. 245 that the entrances to both channels, either from the southward or the north- ward are common. The entrance to Clements Channel from the southward is, however, understood to lie to the westward of the Doubtful Dangers (page 229), Sharpshooter Rock, Hippogriffe Shoal, Hancock and Turtle Shoals, Sand Island, Padang Reef, Branding Breakers, Shoalwater Island, and Em- bleton Rock ; whilst the entrance of Stolze Channel is considered to be to the eastward of those dangers ; and this order will be observed in the description of these channels. LOW and SADDLE are two small islands, a little more than half a mile in diameter, lying in a S.E. by S. direction about 8J miles from the south- eastern point of Pulo Leat. They bear E.N.E. and W.S. W,, and are distant a mile from each other. Low Island, the westernmost, is 123 ft. high ; Saddle Island has two hills upon it forming a saddle, the western hill being 210, and the eastern 266 ft. high. Both islands are connected and surrounded by reefs, extending nearly half a mile from them. Three dangerous patches, extending a mile in aN.W. and opposite direction, lie between the bearings of E. \ N. and N.E. by N., distant \\ mile from the East point of Saddle Island. In the Java Guide a dry reef is said to lie 1:^ mile N.E. by E. from Saddle Island, but in the American survey 1 fathom water is shown on the S.E. and N.W. patches, and 2 fathoms on the middle patch. Between the reefs and the island is a narrow channel of 8 to 14 fa- thoms water ; close-to, on the outside of the reefs, are 15 to 19 fathoms. Sand Island, lying S. by E. | E. 5 miles from the S.E. point of Pulo Leat, is very small and low, and surrounded by rocks to the distance of a third of a mile. About half a mile to the northward of it are 12 or 14 fathoms, and from 10 to 23 fathoms the same distance to the southward. Barn Island, lying about \\ mile E. by N. ^N. from Sand Island, is small, about a third of a mile in diameter, 154 ft. high, and surrounded by a reef to the distance of about a third of a mile. Between Barn and Sand Islands are depths of 8 to 14 fathoms. Dangerous reefs, dry at low water, extend nearly 2 miles between the bear- ings of S.S.E. i E. and S.8.W. J W. from Barn Island. SOUTH ISLAND, one of the islands limiting Clements Channel to the eastward, lies S.E. by E. ^ E. 10^ miles from the S.E. point of Pulo Leat. It is the largest of the islands in this vicinity, being about a mile in diameter ; the highest hill upon it is 200 ft. high. It is surrounded by a reef extending from it in most parts about a third of a mile, but off its South end dangers project three-quarters of a mile. Close to the reef are from 5 to 14 fathoms, and 18 and 24 fathoms a short distance to the westward. Table Island, lying E. by S. 1 J mile from South Island, more properly belongs to Stolze Channel. It is surrounded by reefs projecting nearly half a mile from it, and in the middle of the channel between it and Soutli Island, is a 2 1 -fathoms patch. 246 ' GASPAR STRAIT. North. Island, lyin?: 1| mile northward of South Islanrl, is also siirroundfld by a reef, which extends from it ahoiit a third of a mile. At two-thirds of a mile E.N.E. from the East end of the island is a dry bank with 16 fathoms close-to, and 12 fathoms between it and the reef extending from the island. A mile S.E. from the same end of the island is a patch of 3 fathoms. Sunk Rock is 16 yards only in diameter, with 9 ft. water on it, and 10 fa- thoms around it. From it Saddle Island bears S. bv W. } W., 4J miles, North Island E. by N. 2\ miles, Barn Island W. by S. 3:^ miles, a reef near Saddle Island South, the centre of Table Island and the North point of South Island are in one, and Sandy Island is entirely hidden by Barn Island. From its position as placed upon the American chart, the southern extreme of North Island bears Eist, distant 2^ miles; the south-western extreme of South Island S.E. by E. southerly ; and the northern point of Barn Island W. by S. southerly. A quarter of a mile S. ^ E. from it is a patch of 5 fa- thoms, with 13 fathoms between it and the rock. Middle Pass Shoals are three coral patches lying: close together, and ex- tending nearly a mile in a N.E. by N. and opposite direction. From their southern extreme Barn Island bears S. f E. 3 miles ; and the south-eastern point of Pnlo Leat bears N.W. by W. | W. 2| miles. Barn Island, bearing S. f W., leads about two-thirds of a mile to the eastward of the shoals ; the southern extreme of North Island S.E. by E., clears them about the same distance to the north-eastward, and bearing E. by S. ^ S., clears them to the southward ; the S.E. point of Pulo Leat bearing W. I S., clears them to the northward. Coral Bank is a small patch just awash, with 12 to 19 fathoms around it, lying If mile nnrth-westward of the Middle Pass Shoals. From it the S.E. point of Pulo Leat bears S.W. by W. i W., nearly If mile ; and Pulo Anak N. by W. I W. westerly, 2| miles. The S.E. point of Leat hearing W. by S. J S., leads to the southward of the bank, but over a 2J-fathom bank which lies between Rocky Bank and the S.E. point of Pulo Leat. The eastern ex- treme of Pulo Anak, N.W. by N., leads to the north-eastward. HEWITT SKOAL, upon which, in August, 1820, the ship General Hewitt struck, and remained fast for half an hour, lies 5 miles N. by "W. :J W. from the western extreme of North Island. When aground the western extremes of South and North Islands were in one ; the extremes of Leat Island bore from W.N.W. to W. by S. i S. ; Barn Island S.W. by S. ; and the hill on Brekat Point was well open of Pulo Leat. It is about a ship's length in extent, and 16 to 20 yards in breadth. The coral rocks were visible under the vessel with only 14 (or 18) ft. water over them, and near the shoal 12 to 15 fathoms. The high part of South Island open of the West extreme of North Island leads westward of Hewitt Rock ; and the same object open of the East ex- treme of North Island leads to the eastward. PULO LEAT-THE MIDDLE PASS. 247 PULO LEAT. — The western coast of this island and Jelaka light are no- ticed on pp. 235-6. The eastern coast takes a northerly direction for 3j miles from its S.E. point, when it runs about N.W. ^ N. 3| miles to the northern point. The whole of this coast is fronted by a coral reef, which commences about half a mile northward of the S.E. point ; in front of the bay, abuut three-quarters of a mile northward of the S.E. point, the reef extends half a mile, but not quite so far from the eastern extreme of the inland. Close to the northward uf the eastern extreme, upon the dry reef exteudiug from the shore of the island, is an islet called Pulo Anak, or Selagin. According to the American chart, fresh water may be obtained in the small bay, about half a mile to the northward of the S.E. point of Ijeat, just where the dry reef begins to project from the shore. Rocky Shoal, lying N.E. by E. -^ E. If mile from the S.E. point of Leat, is before described on page 246. Of the N.E. coast of Pulo Leat, besides the reef projecting from the shore, are numerous outlying coral patches, extending nearly 2 miles from it, and rendering this part of the coast exceedingly dangerous. The north-eastern of these dangers — which bound this part of Clements Channel to the west- ward — lies with the S.E. point of Leat in line with the eastern extreme of the island, distant nearly 2 miles from Pulo Anak ; from whence the dangers take a S. 5^ W. direction until they join the reef which projects about half a mile East of Pulo Anak. A vessel will pass eastward of these dangers by keeping the S.E. point of Leat West of S. by W. | W. ; and North Island bearing S.E. |- S. will lead to the north-eastward. Akbar Shoal is noticed on page 238. The MIDDLE PASS, which unites Macclesfield and Clements Channels, is bounded on the S.E. by Sand Island, Barn Island, Sunk Kock, dLUii ISurth Island ; and on the N.W. by the dangers projecting from the boutheru end of Pulo Leat and the Middle Pass Shoals. To proceed from the Macclesfield Channel through the Middle Pass from the south-westward, steer between Entrance Point and the Yansittart Shoals towards Sand Island, the channel between which and the shoals extending from the southern end of Leat, is clear, with depths of 14 to 20 fathoms ; Entrance Point kept bearing W. by S. i S., leads through in mid-channel. In the event of meeting with baffling winds, so that the vessel cannot pre- serve a straight course, the foliowiug may prove useful : — The Ea&t extreme of Pulo Leat bearing North, clears the dangers extending from the West side of Sand Island ; the North extreme of Barn Island bearing East, clears the dangers extending frum the North side of Sand Island ; Barn Island E.S.E., clears the shoals projecting trom the southern end of Leat; Middle Point of Leat W.N. W., clears the Middle Pass shoals; and the North ex- treme of Barn Island S. W. by W. J W. leads North of Sunk Eock. 248 GASPAR STRAIT. The Channel between Low Island and Sand Island is narrowed to the breadth of Ig mile by the shoals extending to the southward of Barn Island. It is not easy to see what advantage is to be gained by using this channel. The Channel between Vansittart Shoals and Low Island is 2 miles wide, and may be used by bringing Sand Island to bear N.N.W., which will lead through in mid-channel. CLEMENTS CHANNEL from the Southward.— Proceeding through Cle- ments Channel from the southward, having passed the Pairlie Rock, steer about N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., if the vessel has passed on the South side of the rock, or about N.E. by N. if she passed on the North side. When the summit of South Island is made out, bring it N.N.E., which will lead between the Embleton Rock and the Vansittart Shoals ; take care, however, not to mistake South Island, remembering that Low and Saddle Islands will be seen to the westward of it. Low Island bearing N.N.E. leads over the eoulh-eastern prong of the Vansittart Shoals. Approaching South Island on a N.N.E. bearing, the soundings will be 9 to 13 fathoms until well up with Low Island, when they will deepen to 16 and 18 fathoms, and to 24 or 25 fathoms when abreast of Saddle Island. When Saddle Island bears West, steer N. by W., which will lead more than a mile clear of the reefs off the north-eastern end of Saddle Island, and midway be- tween North Island and Sunk Rock, and in this track the soundings will be 22, 24, 17, 24, and 23 fathoms. When the North extreme of North Island bears East, steer N.W. by N. for 5 or 6 miles to pass between Middle Pass Shoals and Hewitt Shoal, in depths varying from 22 to 32 fathoms ; when the S.E. point of Leat bears about W.S.W., a N. J W. course may be shaped for Gaspar Island. To pass westward of Sunk Rock, keep the summit of South Island N.N.E., until Saddle Island bears W. by S., when steer N.W. ^ W., which will lead clear of the shoals north-eastward of Saddle Island, and between Barn Island and Sunk Rock, and between Middle Pass Shoals and Hewitt Shoal. No vessel would from choice attempt to work through Clements Channel, as Macclesfield and Stolze Channels are much better adapted fur that purpose; but it is possible that a vessel, embarrassed by light baffling winds, may find it convenient to proceed through some part of this channel. From the Northward. — For the convenience of navigators, the directions for proceeding through this channel from the southward, with a fair wind, are here reversed ; but for working through, it will not be necessary to give other directions than merely to observe the bearings of objects to avoid the various dangers, and which eqtially apply to vessels proceeding in either direction. Having passed a mile or two eastward of Gaspar Island, steer to bring it N. by W., and kept on that bearing, steering S. by E., it will lead clear of STOLZE CHANNEL. 249 the dangers lying off the N.E. coast of Pulo Leat. When the North ex- treme of Palo Leat bears West, its S.E. extreme should bear S.W. by S. Continue the S. by E. course until the S.E. extreme of Leat bears W.S. W., when Saddle Island should be seen just on the starboard bow with Barn Island and Low Island to the right of it ; South Island should be about two points on the port bow, with North Island close to the left of it. The West extreme of South Island, S.E. by S., will lead between Sunk Eock and the dangers extending from North Island. When the North point of North Island bears East, steer S. by E. to pass between South Island and the shoals off the N.E. end of Saddle Island ; and when the South extreme of Saddle Island bears West, bring the peak of South Island N.N.E., and keeping it on that bearing will lead between Embleton Eock and the Vansittart Shoals. If intending to pass westward of Sunk Eock, preserve the S. by E. course until the S.E. extreme of Leat bears West, when Saddle should bear, or must be brought to bear, S. ^ E., which leads between Sunk Eock and Barn Island. When North Island bears E. ^ N., steer, S.E., taking care that the North end of Barn Island is not brought to the North of N.W. by W. | W., to clear the dangers north-eastward of Saddle Island ; when the peak of South Island bears N.N.E., steer S.S.W., and. proceed as before. STOLZE CHANNEL. STOLZE CHANNEL is rather wider, less encumbered with dangers, and furnishes objects more convenient for guiding vessels safely through it, than the Macclesfield Channel. The southern entrance is 15 miles broad, bounded on the West by the Larabe Shoal, and the dangers described on pp. 229-30, and on the East by the Carnbee Eocks, Naga Eeef, Aanvang Bank, Cooper, and Three-feet shoals. These latter shoals are very much against this channel in making it from the southward, for the Carnbee Eocks — the most southern of the dangers — are 20 miles distant from the land, so that in thick or hazy weather, when a ship might be uncertain of her exact position, she would not be able to make Billiton with nearly the same safety that she would be able to make Pulo Lepar or the South coast of Banka. These shoals would appear to form the only drawback to the adoption of this channel, and in fine weather even this would almost disappear, for the hills on Billiton are high, and may be seen at a distance of 30 or 35 miles ; and when in the vicinity of these dangers, not only are the hills on Billiton clearly distin- guishable, but Kennedy and Otan Islands are weU in sight.* * Stolze Channel it easy for a stranger ; but the nature of the bottom, and the depth of water in it is against anchoring, in the event of calms or thick weather. North of Gaspar I. A. 2 K 2.-30 GASPAE STEAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL. Heroine Shoal. — The positions assigned to this shoal, in lat. 3° 33^ 8., Ions'. 107" 52' E., also in lat. 3" 37' S., long. 107" 46' E., were examined by H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876, when soundings of not less than 15 fathoms were obtained, with no indication of shoal water in the vicinity ; the exact posi- tion is, however, doubtful, but it is still placed on the charts in lat. 3° 37' S., long. 107° 46' E. Carnbee Eocks, in lat. 3° 33' 15" S., long. 107° 39' 40" E., are of coral formation, 400 yards long in a North and South direction, and 300 yards broad. Ihese rocks are covered at high water, and are thus difficult to dis- tinguish, when the water is smooth, from a distance of more than 1 cable ; but a portion dries 5 ft. at low water; there are 12 to 15 fathoms 1 cable from them. Naga Eeef is placed on the chart in lat. 3° 26^' S., long. 107° 36' E., 7 miles N.N.W. from Carnbee Eocks, and S. by E. f E. 4J^ miles from Aanvang Bank. A rock above water is marked on the Dutch chart at 3^ miles S.S.E. of the Aanvang Bank. AANVANG BANK {Commencement Bank), discovered in 1822 by Lieut. J. Stolze, is half a mile in length W. by N. ^N. and E. by S. ^ S., and about a cable broad. It consists of large black rocks, some of which are visible at low water springs ; close to them are 5 to 13 fathoms, and about 1^ mile westward of them are 22 fathoms. Erom the western extreme of the bank, Gunong Bolo, on the South point of Pulo Selio, bears N.N.W. f W. 10^ miles, and Blantoe Hill N. by E. \ E. Cooper Shoals, lying N.N.W. \ W. 2^ miles from Aavang Bank, have only 2 ft. water over them, and 7 to 10 fathoms close-to. Gunong Bolo bears from them about N.W. by N., and Blantoe Hill N.N.E. Three^feet Shoal is a patch having only 3 ft. water over it, and 10 to 13 fathoms around it, lying N.W. by W. J W. 4f miles from Cooper Shoals, with Gunong Bolo bearing N. ^ W. 4^- miles, and Blantoe Hill N.E. \ N. 13^ miles. Kennedy or Masar is a small island, lying 7 miles to the N.E. of the Aan- vang Bank, in lat. 3° 19' S., long. 107° 40' 10" E. There is a small islet at IJ mile to the N.W. of it. Otan Island is rather smaller than Kennedy Island, and lies about 1 J mile E.S.E. from it. Other dangers and islands lie to the southward of Billitun, Strait we always found a soft bottom, whereas in Stolze Channel, besides the inconvenient depth, it is of rock or coral. The strength of the current probably prevents the accumula- tion of mud. Hij^h or Hoog Island, off the N.W. coast of Meudanao, shows conspicuously, axid is a good distinguishing mark ; at night we found it an easy object to see."— Capt. the Hon. C. G. J. B. Elliot, H.M.S. Syhillc, 1855. PIJLO SELTO. 251 but thpy are to the eastward of the track of vessels bound through Gaspar Strait. '■/ The West Coast of Billiton, forming the eastern limit of Gaspar Strait, is fronted by numerous islands, separated by narrow and, for the most part, unnavigable passages. Pulo Selio, with the dangers westward of it ; the group named the Six Islands ; and Pulo Mendanao, the largest of the islands, form the eastern limit of Stolze Channel. At the S.W. end of Billiton a^e the Unycorhs, or Gunong Beginda, two remarkable hills, 496 ft. high, which, when coming from the southward, ap- pear as islands. Five miles north-eastward of the Haycocks is Blantoe Hill, 1,166 ft. high ; and to the eastward of Blantoe are Luda, Pyramid, and South Peak, all of which serve to determine a ship's position when approaching the strait from the southward. Seven miles northward of Blantoe diVQ Eliang, 1,198 ft., and Noi^e 1,090 ft. high. Ten or eleven miles N. by E. from Blantoe is Agong, 1,242 ft. high, and which appears to be the highest hill on the island. Seven miles north- ward of Agong, in lat. 2° 53', is Tadjem, 1,096 ft. high. The whole of the hills just mentioned are visible from the southward and south-westward. Three miles S.S.E. ^ E. from Tanjong Bienga, a high bluff forming the north-western extremity of Billiton, is Gunong Tehalo, the highest part of which, Round Mount, is 541 ft. high. A little to the northward of Tamelang Point, on the S.W. side of Billiton, there is a small rivulet of good water, which may be easily approached by boats. Fresh water is also to be found in the northern part of the bay on the West side of Selio. PULO SELIO is surrounded by a reef, and separated from the south- western point of Billiton by a narrow channel, in the middle of which is the small island of Seriboe ; a mile south-eastward of Seriboe is a reef which partly dries. Close to the shore of Billiton are the small islands Goenting and Proet. The South point of Selio is in lat. o° 14' S., long. 137° 30' E., and the conspicuous hill, 242 ft. high, upon it, is named Gunong Bolo. White Rock, 28 ft. above water, stands on the outer edge of a rocky patch, lying nearly 3 miles W. \ N. from the South point of Selio ; a mile S.E. by E. from it are some rocks above water. There is no channel betwepn White Rock and Selio, and shoal water extends nearly 1^ mile southward of that island. A 4f-fathom patch lies 3 miles S.S.E. from White Rock. A Shoal, about a third of a mile in extent, having but li ft. of water over it, and 10 to 16 fathoms close-to, liesN.W. nearly 2 miles from White Rock. Between this shoal and White Rock, and between both and the Koerier Bank, are channels of 5 to S fathoms water. Koerier Bank, of sand, about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, 252 GASPAE STEAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL. dries at low water at 3 miles North of the White Eock, and 4 miles "West of the North point of Pulo Selio. The 3-fathoms edge of the bank surrounding Selio forms a sort of bay on the West side of that island, where a ship may anchor to fill up water. The entrance to it is between the IJ-feet shoal and the Koerier Bank; Gunong Bolo bearing S.E. by E. A E. will lead into it, midway between those dangers. Foul ground and shallow water extends to the westward from Billiton, nearly to a line drawn from White Eock to Eoss Island, the most southern of the Six-island Group ; within this line, 2^ miles N. by W. J W. from the Koerier Bank, is Gull Roch. The large bay to the northward of Selio, and eastward of the Six Islands, is crowded with small islands and reefs. The SIX ISLANDS, or Pulo Lima, are small, low, and surrounded by reefs, between which are narrow passages having depths of 10 to 20 fathoms water. The southernmost of these islands, named Ross, after Captain Eoss, I.N., is 42 ft. high, and lies in lat. 3° 5' S., long. 107° 20' E. The others are named Benolo, 94 ft. high ; Kasengo, 58 ft. ; Bago, 146 ft. ; Belong, 170 ft.; and Binget, 158 ft. high. They may be approached to the southward and westward as near as 1 mile; but dangerous patches extend from Eoss Island in a S.E. direction for nearly 2 miles ; and from Kasengo, the north- western island, reefs, some of which dry at low water, extend in a N.N.W. direction to the distance of \\ mile, and for three-quarters of a mile in a southerly direction. The western extreme of Mendanao bearing North a little easterly leads close to the reef extending N.N.W. from Kasengo, and bearing N. \ E. or N. ^ E., clears all dangers near the Six Islands. TABLE ISLAND, 116 ft. high, forms the western limit of the narrowest part of Stulze Channel, the reef extending N.N.W. from Kasengo, forming the eastern limit. The island is about a third of a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and nearly a quarter of a mile broad. It lies nearly 2 miles E. by S. from South Island, and, from its isolated position, serves as an excellent mark to guide vessels in steering for the narrow part of Stolze Channel when approaching it either from the southward or from the northward. It is sur- rounded by a reef to the distance of nearly half a mile, and at two-thirds of a mile S.W. of it is an outlying patch of 3 fathoms. SOUTH ISLAND is about four times as large as Table Island, and a hiU on its northern part is 200 ft. high. It is bordered by a reef, and dangers extend three-quarters of a mile in a southerly direction froaa its South point. On its North side are some rocks not far from the shore, and a patch with only 3 ft. water over it lies half a mile N. by W. from its eastern point. A Two-and-a-quarter Fathoms Patch lies nearly in mid-channel between Table Island and South Island, which makes that passage dangerous ; else- where are soundings of 14 to 21 fathoms. NOETH ISLAND— PULO BATU DINDING. 253 A 3-feet patch lies 2J miles W.S.W. from Table Island, and three-quarters of a mile off the South side of South Island. NORTH ISLAND, 240 ft. high, is separated from South Island by a channel 1| mile wide, which, from the reefs projecting from both islands, is narrowed to three-quarters of a mile. Th% channel is clear, with soundings of 7 to 18 fathoms. The two islands are in one on a N. by W. and opposite bearing. Three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. from the N.E. point is a dry patch ; there is also a patch of 3 fathoms lying S.E. ^ E., distant a little more than half a mile from the same point. PULO MENDANAO, or Long Island, lying 15^ miles to the eastward of Pulo Leat, is much the largest of the numerous islands which front the West coast of Billiton. It is about 8 miles in extent North and South, and about the same distance East and "West. The island is for the most part low,' but has some hills 600 to 700 ft. high upon it. Pulo Ayam is a very small islet, lying S.S.E. 2J miles from West Point. There is a rock on the outer edge of the reef extending from Mendanao from which the South point of the island bears E. ^ S. 2f miles, and Pulo Ayam N.N.W. f W. At three-quarters of a mile from the rock in the direction of Pulo Ayam is a dry patch. Pulo Gala, or Low Island, lies off the S.E. coast of Mendanao, from which it is separated by the Nado Passage, about three-quarters of a mile broad. The Nado Passage, between Mendanao and Gala Islands, is said to be entirely clear, and very deep, but this is doubtful. A huoy is moored on the eastern side of the channel, about a mile wide, which separates the dangers extending from Pulo Gala from those extending westward from the islands which lie southward of Tanjong Roe, off the western side of Billiton Island, The buoy lies 2| miles south-eastward of the southern extreme of Pulo Gala. Brown Reef. — The English barque Victor, when proceeding through Stolze ^ Channel, struck on a rock with only 8 ft. water on it, and 14 fathoms close- to, Pulo Betong (the easternmost of the Six Islands) bearing S.S.E., and Table Island W. ^ S. These bearings would place this reef near the position of a danger named Brown Eeef on the Dutch chart. As there appear to be other dangers besides Brown Reef in this locality, a vessel will do well to pass westward of a line drawn between Kasengo Island and the West point of Mendanao. Hoog Island {High Island), or Pulo Kumhong, is a small islet, 100 ft. high, and in the form of a sugar-loaf, lying nearly 1^ mile to the northward of West Point ; a reef surrounds it, which on the eastern and northern sides projects nearly half a mile. PULO BATU BINDING lies off the North coast of Mendanao. On the western side of the island is a deep bay, but it is quite tilled up with coral 254 GASPAR STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL. Bhoals. Half a mile off the north-eastern end of the island is a small round islet. Rotterdam Island, lying about IJ mile northward of the S.W. point of Batu Dindinff, is small, and more than half a mile "West of it is a very small islet half a mile S.W. of which are some rocks. A bank of sand and rocks surround both island and islet, between which and the reef exteuding from Batu Binding is a narrow channel with 6 to 9 fathoms water in it. The whole coast between Mendanao Island and Tanjong Bienga, theN.W. point of Billiton, is fronted by dangers, and vessels should use extreme cau- tion in approaching it ; the outlying dangers only will be described. Perlak Shoal, or Kalang Serat, is a rock nearly awash, with a 2-fathoms patch about a third of a mile north-eastward of it. A monster hwij, painted Mack, is placed in 7 fathoms water on the North side of the bank, and W.S.W. cf Tanjong Pandang (Billiton). From it a remarkable tree on Pulo Kal- manbang bears N. 87° 20' E. ; the N.E. point of Palo Sihongkok (on Hoorn Island), S. 75° E. ; and the South end of Pulo Kalmanbang on with the North point of Gunong Tadjem. Fulo Ealmanlang is a small island lying E. A N. 6! miles from the N.E. point of Batu Binding. It is surrounded by an extensive reef, on the western extreme of which, U mile "W.S.W. from the S.W. point of the island, a huoy is placed. About a mile North from Kalmanbang, and 2 miles N.N.E. from the last-named buoy, is another buoy, which lies off the middle of a narrow bank, named Tohul (Toekoel), which extends 2 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and is separated from the reef lying off the North side of Kalmanbang by a narrow channel. A 5-fathom bank of small size lies 2 miles N.W. from the latter buoy. A shoal, named Pinang, lies off the South and S.E. sides of Kalmanbang, distant \^ mile from it. Tieroetioep Bay and River. — This bay is to the northward of Kalmanbang Island and the Toekoel Shoal, between the latter and the Karang Panjang, or Bakka Shoal. The river falls into the eastern part of the bay, but reefs extend off its entrance to a distance of nearly 4 miles. The small island of Kalmoa, 150 ft. high, lies directly off the entrance, 3 miles within the reefs. Pandan, the town on the North entrance point of the river, is joined with Blantoe, 22 miles to the southward, by a railway. The outer edges of the reefs which lie on either side of the entrance of the river form a sort of bight, within the horns of which a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms. The best anchorage appears to be a little further out, with Kalmoa Island bearing about E.S.E., and Kalmanbang Island S. by W. ^ W. But it is not a safe anchorage in the N.W. monsoon, and even during the N.E. monsoon there are heavy gales from the N.W. B^wyf:. — There is a conical buoy lying on the North side of the entrance to the channel between the reefs, at 2 miles W.N.W. from Kalmoa Island. There is also a can buoy lying 1 mile further out, and marking the eastern TAN JONG BTENGA. 255 side of a rocky 5-fatliom patch, which should by avoided by vessels anchoring. It is advisable to lay the kedge out to the northward, as vessels often foul their anchors, either by the currents or winds. To enter and anchor in this bay, having passed the West point of Mendanao at a distance of 2 miles, Bteer North or N. by E. till Rotterdam Island or the N.W. point of Binding bears S.S.E., then steer N.E. by E., E.N.E., or E. by N., till Kalmoa Island bears S.E. by E. ; steer then direct for that island till Kalmanbang bears S.S.W. J W., and anchor in 7^ fathoms, with the mouth of the river S.E. by E. i E., 4 miles distant, and the nearest rocks S.E. f E., 3 miles. By the American chart, Kalmoa bearing S.E. by E. leads just to the southward of the Bakka Shoal. When near the N.W. point of Binding, the wind sometimes flies round to the eastward ; and if bound to this bay it is better to anchor and wait for the sea breeze from the southward or south-westward, as the current runs to the N.W. with an easterly wind. The water, which is fetched from a little way up the river, is very good ; it may be procured also on the right bank of the river, near the entrance, but it is not so good. Karang Pandjang, or Bakka Shoal, bounding Tieroetioep Bay to the northward, is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, with 1 J fathom water over it. Tanjong Koeboe (Kubu), or Billiton, bears from it E. by S. :^ S. ; Kalmoa Islet S.E. i E. ; and Kalmanbang S. by W. Argo Shoal, about 1| mile in extent, with only a foot of water over the middle of it, lies N.N.E. ^ E. 4^ miles from the Karang Panjang, and from its outer edge Tanjong Bienga bears N.E. f E. Several shoals are reported to lie westward of the Argo Shoal. Numerous detached patches lie eastward of the line joining Argo Shoal and Karang Pandjang. A small shoal, with two fathoms water over it, lies If mile N.E. ^ N. from the Argo Shoal, with Tanjong Bienga bearing N.N.E. , distant 2 miles ; and N.W. Island N. f E., 3^ miles. TANJONG BIENGA is a high bluff point, forming the north-western ex- treme of Billiton ; from this point the coast trends away north-eastward. Eleven Islands are a cluster of small islands lying off the north-western extreme of Billiton. The names of some of them are the Sailor's Hat, Bamboe, Sampit, and Burong ; the latter is the largest of the group, and lies N.N.E. nearly 4 miles from Tanjong Bienga. N. W. Island or Langwas, the outer and most north-western of the islands, lies just inside the edge of the coral reef which extends from the shore, and surrounds the entire group, its North end is in lat. 2° 31A' S., long. 107° 38i' E. Alwina Shoal. — The ship Alwina passed close to a rock lying N.N.W. 1^ mile Irom the north-westernmost of the Eleven Islands. It appeared to be 256 GASPAE STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL. a detached danger, with a depth of 6 to 9 feet on it, and deep water all around. Directions for Stolze Channel. — No soundings appear on the charts for a distance of 7 or 8 miles southward and south-westward of the Carnbee Eocks (p. 250), nor yet close to those dangers, so that a vessel cannot be guided by the lead when approaching them. Between the Carnbee Rocks and the Aanvang Bank are 13 to 18 fathoms. The Aanvang Bank, Cooper Shoals, and Three-feet Shoal appear to lie just within the edge of the line of 10 fa- thoms, running from a position 4 or 5 miles south-eastward of the Aanvang Bank, outside the shoals just mentioned. Towards the shoals on the western side of the entrance to the channel the depths are much less, and they decrease more regularly, the 10-fathom line extending some 5 or 6 miles to the eastward of them, so that they may be approached by proper attention to the lead. The bottom, through the entire length of Stolze Channel, appears to be composed principally of sand and broken shells, with here and there broken coral. To the north-westward of Billiton the bottom is mostly soft, black mud, with sand and broken coral and shells in places. From the Southward. — As soon as Blantoe, 1,166 ft. high (the highest hill on the South coast of Billiton), can be recognized, it should be brought to bear about N.N.E., and with it just in sight on that bearing, if the weather is clear, a vessel will be about 33 or 35 miles distant from it, in the fairway of the Stolze Channel, with the Carnbee Rocks about 15 miles to the north- eastward, and may shape a course North or N. ^ W. As the vessel proceeds to the northward, Luda Hill will come in sight, and shortly afterwards Pyramid and South Peak, all of which will be seen to the right or eastward of Blantoe. Soon the Haycocks will be visible, at first a little to the left of Blantoe, and by the time they are in line with it, Gunong Bolo, on the South end of Selio, will be well in sight, bearing about N.N.E., and distant 14 and 15 miles. Shoal- water Island will also be in sight, not perhaps from the deck, but from the mast-head, or a little way up the rigging, bearing about N.W. by W., and distant 15 or 16 miles. From this position a N. by W. f W. course will lead up to Table Island. Passing 6 or 7 miles westward of White Rock, Saddle and South Islands will be seen on the port bow ; soon Low Island will also rise in sight on the port bow, and the Six Islands on the starboard bow ; and as they are approached — if the N. by W. f "W. course has been preserved — Table Island will be seen right ahead in mid-channel. Table Island should be approached on a N. by W. |^ W. bearing until the West point of Mendanao bears N. by E. or N. by E. I E., which will lead between Table Island and the reefs extending N.N.W., from Kasenga. When the North point of North Island bears W.N.W., either steer N.N.W. for Gaspar Island, which will lead 3 miles eastward of the Hewitt Rock, and DIEECTIONS. 257 2 miles westward of the western of the two positions ascribed to the Akbar Shoal ; or bring North Island S. by W. J W., and steer N. by E. f E., or N.N.E., which will lead 4 or 5 miles westward of the dangers extending from Eotterdam Island, and into the China Sea eastward of the Akbar and Canning Shoals. Working through from the Southicard. — When standing to the eastward, to avoid the Cambee Eocks, Blantoe Hill must not be brought North of N. by E. ; and to clear the Aanvang Bank and Cooper Shoal, Gunong Bolo must not be brought West of N. by W. When Blantoe bears N.E. f N., or the Haycocks N.N.E. f E., Gunong Bolo must be kept East of N. by E., to avoid the Three-feet patch. The dangers southward of Selio should not be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms, or White Eock brought to the West of N. by W. i W. ; and ■when Gunong Bolo bears N.E. by E. ^ E. White Eock must be kept to the East of North, to avoid the edge of the bank which lies S.S.E. nearly a mile from it. White Eock should not be approached nearer than a mile, nor to a less depth than 14 or 13 fathoms ; when northward of White Eock, it must not be brought anything South of E.S.E. until the North point of Pulo Selio bears E. by N. i N., to clear the H ft. patch lying nearly 2 miles N.W. of it. The Koerier Bank should not be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms, or White Eock brought South of S.E. by S. Gunong Bolo kept East of S.E. by E. will lead clear of the Koerier Bank, and to the S.W. of the foul ground between it and the Six Islands. Eoss Island bearing N.N.W. \ W. leads westward of the foul ground, and also clear of the dangers lying S.E. of Eoss Island. Kasenga bearing North clears the dangers extending from the West side of Eoss Island ; and the hill on the West point of Mendanao, if not brought to the North of N. 2- E., will lead well clear of the rocks which extend more than a mile N.N.W. from Kasenga, and will also clear all danger contiguous to the Six Islands. AVhen Table Island bears W. by N. a vessel will be northward of the dan- gers extending from Kasenga, and may stand eastward until the hill on the West point bears N. % W. As Pulo Ayam is neared, the hill on West point must not be brought to the West of North, and the islet must not be approached nearer than a mile. To clear the dangers about Hoog Island, West point should not be brought to the South of S.S.E. until Eotterdam Island bears N.E., when Hoog Island, in line with West point bearing South, will lead clear of the dangers westward of Eotterdam Island. Eotterdam bearing S.W. leads clear of the shoal bank extending from the North point of Batoe Binding. The dangerous coast of Billiton northward of Mendanao should not be neared under 5 or 6 miles ; the summit of the North range of hills on Men- danao S.S.W., or Taling, the highest hill on Mendanao, on the same bearing will lead well clear of ail danger. N.W. Island and Boerong Island should I. A. 2 L 258 GASPAE STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL. not be approached nearer than 2 miles, and caution must be observed to avoid the position of the Alwina Shoal (see p. 255). When standing to the westward, Shoal- water Island, if not brought to the East of North, will clear all danger from the Larabe Shoal to the Middle ileef, and the lead will also give good warning when standing towards them, as they lie some 4 or 5 miles within the edge of the 10-fathom line. Shoal- water and Hancock Islands must be approached with caution, as the lead does not give much warning when nearing their ledges ; they should on no account be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms, or within 2^ miles. Hancock Island bearing South leads clear of the Bliss Shoal, between which and South Island a vessel may stand to the westward until the summit of South Island bears N.E. by N., which will lead clear of the Vansittart Shoals and the dangers about Saddle and Low Islands. Saddle Island bearing W. \ S., leads southward of the dangers extending from South and Table Islands. When near Table Island, its South point should not be brought to the eastward of North, to avoid the o-fathom patch lying three-quarters of a mile S."W. of it. The East side of Table Island may be approached to a mile ; but the East side of North Island has dan- gers l^ing nearly a mile off it, and to clear them Table Island must not be brought eastward of S.S.E. The East extreme of South Island just open of the East extreme of North Island bearing S. by E., leads a mile eastward of Hewett Shoal. Through Stohe Channel from the northward. — Having passed eastward of Gaspar Island, bring it to bear N.N. W., and keep it so, steering S.S.E., and it will lead into the fairway of Stolze Channel, midway between West point and the Hewett Shoal, and in this track the soundings will be 14, 16, 20, 22, 28, and 26 fathoms. When West point bears East, distant 4 or 5 miles, Table Island will be seen on the starboard bow, with North and South Islands to the right of it. Continuing the S.S.E. course, the Six Islands will soon be visible on the port bow, and, after passing Table Island at about 2 miles on the starboard beam. West point will soon bear N. by E. or N. by E. y E. ; when an opposite course may be steered to pass between Table Island and the dangers extending N.N.W. from Kasenga. When Table Island bears N. by W. f W., all danger will be cleared near the Six Islands, and if kept upon that bearing it will lead mid-channel between White Rock and Shoal-water Island, having passed which, the most convenient course may be shaped to the southward, giving a good berth to the shoals extending from Branding Breakers to the Larabe Shoal, on the western side of the channel, and to the Aanvang Bank and Carnbee Rocks on the eastern side. Entering Stolze Channel to the eastward of the Akbar Shoal, between it and the N.W. coast of Billiton, steer to the S.W., giving the Billiton coast a berth of 4 or 5 miles ; and as soon as North Island can be made out, bring DIEECTIONS. 259 it S.S.W., and it will lead well to the westward of the dangers near Rotter- dam Island. When Table Island bears a little East of South, a S.S.E. course may be steered until West point bears N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., which leads midway between Table Island and the reefs off Kasenga ; when pro- ceed as before. Worldng through from the Northward. — When danding to the eastivard, the N,W. coast of Billiton should not be approached nearer than 5 or 6 miles, or the summit of the North range of hills on Mendanao brought westward of S.S.W. (pp. 257-8). Rotterdam Island, bearing S.W., will lead clear of the reefs extending from the North side of Batoe Binding, and the islet off the N.E. point of the latter island, bearing East, will clear the dangers northward of Rotterdam. West point bearing South will clear the rocks, &c., which lie westward of Rotterdam, and bearing S.S.E. will clear the reef surroimding Hoog Island. West point and Pulo Ay am should not be approached much under a mile, as a reef extends about a third of a mile outside them. After passing Pulo Ayam, the hill near the extremity of West point, if not brought North of N. ^ E., will keep a vessel outside the dangers between Mendanao and the Six Islands. Kasenga bearing North, leads westward of Ross Island ; and Ross Island N.N.W. \ W., or Gunong Bolo, on Pulo Selio, bearing S.E. by E., leads clear of the dangerous elbow of foul ground to the westward of Gull Rock, and also clear of the Koerier Bank. To avoid the li-feet patch at 2 miles N.W. from White Rock, do not bring White Rock South of E.S.E. after the North point of Selio bears E. by N. ^ N. White Rock should be passed about a mile off, and after- wards not brought West of N. by W. ^ W., to avoid the edge of the bank about a mile S.S.E. from it. Gunong Bolo N. by E., leads westward of the Three-feet Shoal ; and the Haycocks N. by E. ^ E., or Blantoe Hill N.N.E. I E., leads westward of Cooper Shoal and the Aanvang Bank. To avoid the Carnbee Rocks, Blantoe Hill must not be brought to the North of N. by E. Standing to the westicard towards Hewitt Shoal, take care not to shut in the East point of South Island behind the East point of North Island ; these points just open lead a mile eastward of the shoal. North Island should not be approached on the East side nearer than H mile, or Table Island brought to the East of S.S.E., to avoid the dangers off it ; and Kasenga bearing S.E. i E. will clear the reef off the East side of Table Island. Table Island should not be brought to the East of North until Saddle Island bears W. 4 S., when a vessel will be southward of the dangers extending from Table Island and South Island ; after which she may stand to the westward until the summit of South Island bears N.N.E. Hancock Island bearing South leads eastward of Bliss Shoal, but Han- cock and Shoal-water Islands must on no account be approached nearer than 260 GASPAE STEAIT, N.E. COAST OF BANKA. 2^ miles, or to a less depth than 10 fathoms, which will be not far from the shoals, the lead giving very little warning in this locality. When to the southward of Shoal-water Island Shoals, Shoal-water Island kept to the West of North will clear the dangers extending from the Branding Breakers to the Larabe Shoal ; the lead, also, will give sufficient warning, as the 10-fathom line, on the edge of the bank, is 4 or 5 miles to the eastward of them. NOETH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. CAUTION. — The mariner cannot be too cautious in approaching this ex- ceedingly dangerous coast. It was surveyed by the late Lieutenant James Eobinson in 1819, but many dangers which front it are very imperfectly known, their positions depending for the most part upon the accounts of commanders of vessels who have found themselves too close in and entangled amongst them when running for Graspar Strait in thick weather. There are many hills along this coast near the sea, and some mountains inland ; one of these, called the Saddles, 912 feet high, rises about 9 miles westward of Tanjong Brekat. At 9 miles westward of the Saddles is the conspicuous range of the Padang Mountains, the highest summit of which is elevated 2,630 feet. About 21 miles westward of Tanjong Eiah, or in lat. 1° 50' S., long. 105° 53' E., is the double-peaked mountain Gunong Marass, 2,300 feet high, the largest mountain on the northern part of Banka. The Coast from Brekat Point trends W. by N. 21 miles to LanJca Pointy 4 miles westward of which is Koha village. This part of the shore may be approached as near as 4 miles in 7 to 8 fathoms water, as the shoals are not more than 2 or 3 miles from the land. About 16 miles N.W. by W. from Lanka Point is the large village of Koeraw, from whence the coast trends N. by W. and N.N.W. to the River Marawang, near which stands the village of Pankal Pinang. The mouth of the river is in 2° 4J' S. Tetawa Bank. — Fronting the coast between the village of Koeraw and the Marawang Eiver is an extensive chain of banks, 15 or 16 miles long, and from 1 to 5 miles broad, known under the general appellation of Tetawa Bank, upon which are several scattered islands. Many of the patches become dry, and but few have as much as 4 fathoms water over them. Pulo Boear, or Colowy, the outermost of the above islands, is very small, and lies near the S.E. end of the bank, in lat. 2° 14^' S., long. 106° 11' E. Pulo Passir is a small sandy islet lying W.N.W., distant 43 miles from Pulo Boear. Pulo Tetawa is about the same size as Boear, from which it bears West- northerly, distant 8 miles. It lies near the S.W. extreme of the bank, the NOETH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. 261 edge of which, is half a mile to the southward and 2 miles to the westward of it. Pulo Panjang, the largest, lies on the northern part of the bank, N. by E. ^ E., distant 7 miles from Tanjong Poyang, and E.S.E. 8 miles from the en- trance of the Marawang Riven The bank extends about three-quarters of a mile to the northward of this island, but other shoals, known as the Sullivan Patches, &c., extend to a distance of 5 miles between the bearings of N.E. and N.W., and for the distance of 3^ miles in a W. by N. direction towards Tanjong Bunga, the nearest point of Banka. Horse, Mentawa, and Goat Shoals, are to the eastward of Tetawa Bank. The Horse, lying E. J S. 3J miles from Pulo Boear, is a small patch, nearly dry at low water. The Mentawa Eeef, lying about a mile N. by W. from the Horse, and E.N.E. 3 miles from Pulo Boear, is more extensive than the Horse. Goat Shoal lies 3 miles northward of the Mentawa Eeef, and N.E. by N. 6 miles from Pulo Boear ; 9 ft. is reported upon this shoal. The Cha^mel between Pulo Boear and the above shoals is shown on the charts to be about 21 miles wide, with depths of 7 or 8 fathoms in it ; but it would appear that either other dangers must lie in the channel at the dis- tance of a mile from Pulo Boear, or that the Mentawa or Horse Eeef must extend much further to the westward than was supposed, thus rendering the channel exceedingly narrow : — Fathool Barie Shoal.— The Fathool Barie struck on a rocky bank, with 2^ fathoms on it, in lat. 2° 4' S., long. 106° 28' E., with Mount Pouak bearing N.W. i W., Pulo Panjang W.S.W., Pulo Tetawa S.S.W., and Pulo Boear S. by E. J E. General Elliott Reefs. — The General Elliott, in August, 1811, found herself entangled among some reefs, with. Panjang Island S. by W ^ W., 5 miles, and a point of Banka, being the eastern foot of the hill South of Koba, S.S.E. ^ E., then being in 8 fathoms. More to the northward, this vessel ran over some 7-fathoms banks with probably shoaler spots ; they lie in 1° 55' S., 12 miles from Banka. Sullivan Reefs, Hillsborough Rock. — The Sullivan, on returning from China, December, 1784, and trying to get sight of Banka during thick weather, ran as far in as 1 3|^ fathoms, rocky bottom, and there saw three patches of breakers, one bearing S.S.W. 3 miles; another S.E. by S. the same distance ; and the third E.N.E. 4 miles. Between the breakers a few rocks were visible above water. The weather being thick prevented Banka being seen ; but it was supposed the rocks were in 2° 3' S., and North from Panjang Island. The Hillshorough, in March, 1788, returning from China, and steering for Gaspar Strait, struck on a rock having 3 ft. water on its shoalest part, and while the bow was aground there were 13 fathoms under the storn. When 262 GASPAR STRAIT, N.E. COAST OF BANKA. the vessel floated, she anchored in 14 fathoms to the westward of the rock, with the extremes of Banka N.N.W. and S.E., five small islands about South, and in about 2° 3' S., thereof extended S.E. and N.E. from the vessel. It is manifest that the positions of these dangers are altogether uncertain. The soundings near the Sullivan Patches, whete they are placed upon the chart, are but 7 and 8 fathoms. The Diederiha Shoal, with 3 ft. water over it, and 1 3 to 1 4 fathoms around it, is thought to lie 11 miles north-eastward of Pulo Panjang, and 5 miles to the southward of Palmer Reef, in lat. 1° 59' S., long. 10f^° 28' E. Roberts Shoal lies about 4^- miles to the westward of Diederika Shoal. It has 12 ft. water over it, and 10 fathoms near it. Between these shoals and Pulo Panjang, and from thence to the coast, there are numerous rocky shoals, with from 7 to 5 fathoms water between them, but, as before stated, their exact positions are unknown. Palmer Reef, lat. 1° 54|' S., long. 106° 27^' E., is probably part of the northern bank over which the General Elliott passed. Caution. — All these dangers may be avoided by keeping in not less than 16 fathoms, where there is generally a muddy bottom, whereas in 15 fathoms it generally becomes rocky. TANJONG RIAH, on Banka, in lat. 1° 52' S., long. 106° 14' E., is distin- guished by two hills, and from its S.E. and South sides an extensive reef pro- jects, which makes it necessary to keep 6 or 8 miles in the offing. Blach Rock Reef, lying 5^ miles to the South and S.E. of Tanjong Riah, is very extensive, with only 3 ft. water over it in some places. Tate Rocks, 4 miles S.S.E. from Tanjong Riah, are 14 ft. above water. Other shoals lie S.E. by S. 8 miles from Tanjong Riah ; and E.N.E., 4 miles from it, is a patch of 5 fathoms water. To avoid these dangers, keep Panjang Island to the westward of South, and go no nearer the shore of Banka than 7 fathoms water, when approach- ing Marawang Road. Marawang, or Pankal Pinang, the chief town of one of the tin districts, is situated a few miles up the Marawang River, the entrance of which lies about W.N.W. 7 miles distant from Pulo Panjang, and can only be ap- proached by vessels with the greatest caution, on account of surrounding dangers. Good water can be obtained at Pankal Pinang. DIRECTIONS.— Vessels bound from Macclesfield Channel to the ports of Pankal Pinang or Roessah, pass between Tree Island and Brekat Point, and to the westward of the Columbian and Dutch Shoals, in 12 to 14 fa- thoms water, but in not a greater depth— as the Columbian lies in the stream of 17 fathoms — till Boear Island bears S.W. by S., and Panjang Island West ; a depth of 16 fathoms must then be kept till Riah Point bears "West. Prom thence steer direct for that point till in 7 or 8 fathoms, having Panjang Island S. 2 W., on which bearing the island may be approached till the NORTH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. 263 N.W. peak of the Lappa Hills bears S.W. i W., which course leads direct to the anchorage. LIAT BAY, formed between Tanjong Lyang to the N.W., and Tanjong Eiah, to the S.E., affords good anchorage with shelter from southerly and westerly winds in 5 fathoms, white stiff clay, about three-quarters of a mile off shore ; but in the eastern monsoon the swell is very heavy. The an- chorage is in 4^ fathoms, with the mouth of the river W. by N. northerly, Lyang Point N.N. W. I W., and Riah Point S.E. by S. From the river, nearly to the S.E. point of the bay, a fine sandy beach lines the shore, with gradually decreasing soundings. The town of Liat, usually known as Songi Liat, stands a short distance up the river, and is a chief town of one of the tin districts. Fresh water here is very difficult to be procured, on account of the rocks in the mouth, of the river, which can only be entered at high water. Wood and spars of any dimensions may easily be obtained on the South side of the bay, within half a mile of the shore. The three following dangers are very much in the way of vessels frequent- ing this bay. I^iat Reef, lying E. by S. | S. 85 miles from Tanjong Lyang, has but 6 ft. water over it. Circe Reef, discovered by H.N.M. schooner Circe, has 2^ fathoms over it, and 6 or 7 fathoms around it. From the reef the hill on Lyang Point bears W. by N. J N., Simbang Island N.W. \ W., and the hill on Tanjong Riah S.W. I s. At full and change it is high water in Liat Bay at 5 p.m., and the rise of tide is 9 ft. Approaching Liat Bay from the northward, 5^ or 6 fathoms will be found at 2 miles from Lyang Point, and in a southerly direction towards the anchorage. Coming from the eastward, and being in 10 and 11 fathoms, bring Riah. Point S.W. by W , and keep towards it till Lyang Point is N.W. by W. l W., then steer W.N.W. and W. by N. towards the anchorage. A rock is marked on the charts If mile S.S.E. from Lyang Point and a mile off shore; the anchorage recommended is southward of the rock in 4^- or 4 fathoms water. The Coast from Tanjong Dyang runs N.N.W. to Tanjong Tuen, in lat. 1° ;i5i' S., which has a hill on it, and there are several hills further inland. Close to the point is Pongoh Islet, which can be approached to half a mile. The coast to the southward of it forms a very shallow bay, in which, at about 6 miles S.S.E. from Tanjong Tuen, is a small island named Pulo Simbang. This part of the coast may be approached to 13 fathoms, and even less. The coast from Tanjong Tuen runs about N.W. by W. for 10^ miles to Tanjong Crassok or Moncudu, ihQ northernmost point of Banka, where it turns sharply to the westward. A reef, with only 7-^- ft. water, lies about 1^ mile from the shore, and nearly midway between Tanjong Crassok and Cape Tuen. 264 DANGEES NOETH OF GASPAR STRAIT. From the shoal, Crassock Point bears W. by N. f N., Pulo Pongoh off Cape Tuen S.E. J S.. and Pakoe Point S. by E. A second reef is marked at 3 miles S.E. by E. from Tanjong Crassok. Nearly a mile off shore, distant 2 J miles W. by N. from Tanjong Crassok, is the small island of Moncudu, before described, page 226. DANGERS NORTHWARD AND NORTH-WESTWARD OF GASPAR STRAIT. CANNING ROCK, in lat. 2° 23' S., long. 107° 13' E., on which, in April, 1825, the East India Company's ship of that name struck on returning from China, lies directly in the route of vessels proceeding towards Gaspar Strait, and therefore is very dangerous, there being only 3 fathoms on it, with 17 to 20 fathoms close-to. From the spot where this ship grounded, Gaspar Island bore W. by S. 10 miles ; Brekat Point S.W. by W. | W. ; the hum- mock near that point S.W. by W. J W. ; the summit of Mendanao Island S.S.E. ; and Hoog Island S. by E. ^E. The danger consists of many coral heads, extending N.E. and S.W. about 100 yards, and East and West 60 yards. As it is greatly in the way of vessels coming from the northward toward the strait, Gaspar Island ought to be made bearing well to the southward, and should be approached within 5 miles, or nearer, before it is brought to bear W.S.W., in order to give a wide berth to this danger. Sowerby Shoal, seen by Capt. J. Sowerby, of the ship Montmorency, April 1st, 1861, with apparently not more than 2 fathoms water over it; by good cross bearings the middle peak of Mount Tebalo (North end of Billiton Island) bore S. 32° E., and peak of Gaspar Island S. 66° W., which places it in lat. 2° 13' S., and about long. 107° 35' E. (or 107° 28'). This shoal is about 3 miles long N.W. and S.E., and a third of a mile broad, and is very dangerous, as it lies right in the track of vessels beating out of the Stolze Channel to the northward in the northerly monsoon. Pare Joie Shoal. — A rock was marked doubtful on the charts, with the peak of Gaspar Island bearing S.S.E. | E. 6J miles, and Tree Island S. by W. f W. 9 miles. It is probably the same as that on which the Pare Joie struck in 1869. It is now placed in lat. 2° 19' S., long. 107° 3' E., or nearly 3 miles eastward of the position assigned to the doubtful danger. From the Pare Joie Shoal the summit of Gaspar Island bears S. i E., distant 5 miles, and Tree Island S.W. by S. 10 miles distant. Warren Hastings Reef is supposed to extend about Z\ miles N. by W. and S. by E., and to have but 2 to 9 ft. water over it in some places. In 1788 the Warren Hastings, returning from China, grounded upon the S.E. projecting point of this reef, having a short time previously had regular soundings from 20 to 22 fathoms. Under the stem there were only 2 ft. BELVEDERE SHOALS. 265 •vrater, 4 fathoms amidships ; the high land of Banka bore S.W. by W., the most distant visible land S.S.W. and S.W. by W. ^ W., the centre of Gas- par Island S.E. by E. | E., Tree Island, S. by E. ^ E., the latitude by the sun's meridian altitude being 2' 23' S. On examining the shoal with the boat there were in some places 3 and IJ fathoms. In 1845 the English ves- sel Gondolier was wrecked on this reef. The French vessel Joseph places it in 2° 21' S., and 106^ 56' 45" E., with the centre of Gaspar Island S.E. by E. ; Belvedere Eock, N.N.E. ; and the wreck of the Gondolier S.S.W. Chrysolite Roch, said to lie If mile eastward of the southern part of Warren Hastings Eeef, is stated by Dutch authority not to exist. The following account is given of it : — " On the 10th of September, 1851, the Chrysolite, of Liverpool, while working between the Belvedere and Warren Hastings Shoals, saw a rock, which apparently did not carry more than 4 ft. water, with Tree Island bearing S. | E. ; Brekat Point S.S.W. ^ W. ; and the centre of Gaspar Island E. by S." Columbian Shoalis marked doubtful on the chart, N. by W. J W., distant 14 miles from Brekat Point, from the following report by Capt. G. Wakem, of the ship Columbian, who stated that his vessel struck upon it in April, 1845, but without being brought up, although the reef had not more than 10 ft. water upon it. Anchored immediately with Gaspar Island E. by S. distant 16 miles, and Tree Island S.E. by E. i E. 12 miles. The next day the vessel was left in a sinking condition. Belvedere Shoals. — The south-western end of these shoals is a reef under water, in lat. 2° 14' S., long. 106^ 59' E., and from it Gaspar Peak bears S.S.E. ^ E., distant 11 miles ; from thence they extend to the north-eastward 4^ miles. Near their middle is a sand-bank awash ; there are besides on them many coral patches with 6 to 10 ft. water, and on their north-eastern extreme a black rock 10 ft. high and 40 ft. long. When there is a heavy swell the sea breaks on them, and by day they may easily be avoided by a good lookout, particularly as some of the patches are dry at low water. How- ever, a vessel from New York was wrecked on these shoals, and shortly after- wards a Chinese junk. It was probably their breakers which were observed from the ITawk in 1785, bearing N.E. 6 miles, and E. by N. 3 miles, Gaspar Island S.S.E. ^ E., and part of Banka S.W. A reef was discovered lying N.N. W. 3f miles from the Belvedere Eock, also 17 miles distant from Gaspar Island, and 28 miles from Brekat Point, on Banka Island. The position given is in lat. 2° 8' S., long. 107° 1' 15" E. Dutch. Shoal {Vansittart Shoal), lies in lat. 2° lOJ' S., long. 106° 44' E., with the peak of Gaspar Island bearing about S.E. by E., distant 24 miles. The Vamittart, Capt. Lestock Wilson, struck on this shoal, and was with great difficulty run upon a sandy beach of Banka, to save the lives of the crew. K shoal oi& ft. water is marked on the Dutch chart N.W., distant 11| miles from the Dutch shoal. I. A. 2h 266 DANGERS NORTH OF GASPAR STRAIT. Magdalen Reef, discovered in November, 1806, by the American vessel MagdaleUy is very dangerous in thick weather for vessels bound to Gaspar Strait from the northward, for when the reef was first seen the vessel was only half a cable's length from it. The boat found it to consist of two coral rocks, about 160 yards in length and 30 yards in breadth, with deep water between them, 1 1 ft. upon them, and at half a cable's length from the shoal 19 to 21 fathoms. Capt. Ross, in 1818, determined the position of this reef to be lat. 1°59'S., long. 107° r E., the peak of Gaspar Island bearing from it S. | E., distant nearly 26 miles. Lanrick or Newland Shoal, with only 9 ft. water over it, lies 8 or 9 miles northward of the Magdalen Shoal. The clipper brig Lanrich, Capt. T. B. White, struck upon this shoal in 1852 ; and the ship u4s?'a, Capt. Newland, in October, 1853. Both vessels took great pains to determine its exact position, and the mean of their observations places the danger in lat. 1° 52' S., long. 107° r 30" E. Capt. White says : — " It is of very small extent, and exceed- ingly dangerous, the soundings giving no warning, for the next morning at anchor, and not more than IJ mile from its position, the boats after a two hours' search could not find, nor did they see any discoloured water, or get less than 17 fathoms." Capt. Newland remarks also that no discoloured water could be seen at the distance of a mile from the shoal. Atwick Rock was discovered by an English vessel of that name, in August 1831. Its position was given in lat. 1° 48' S., long. 107° 30' E., or N.N.E. | E. 44 J miles from Gaspar Island. Pratt Rock, in lat. 1° 32' S., long. 107° 26' E., is described as dangerous, extending N. and S. half a mile, and apparently level with the water's edge, having a rock (or dead tree, many of which were floating about) on its northern end. Catharine Reef -^diS dii^covexedi in 1840, by the ship Catharine, which an- chored at 1 p.m. in lat. 1° 31' S., long. 107° 1' E., in 18 fathoms water. They observed breakers in a N.N.E. ^ E, direction, at half a mile distant, on a reef which seemed to extend about 3 miles E. by S. Though the vessel re- mained at anchor till 5 p.m., it does not appear that any further observations were made. Its position is marked doubtful on the charts. ActaeonRock. — H.M.S. Actceon, when proceeding to the northward through Gaspar Strait, passed Gaspar Island at sunset, July 7th, 1857, and at mid- night, running 8 knots, struck on an unknown coral reef, which, when ex- amined the next day, was found to be between 2 and 3 cables' lengths in extent, steep-to, with patches of 7 ft. on it, and 17 fathoms all around. Its position is lat. 1° 39' 48" S., long. 106° 37' 58" E., or East about 8 miles from the Severn Shoal. The land was observed from the masthead, whereas from the Severn Shoal the hills on Banka are said to have the appearance of separate islands. SEVEEN SHOAL— CELESTIAL EEEFS. 267 Severn Shoal, discovered in May, 1802, by the American ship Severn, lies exactly in the track of vessels from Toty Island towards Gaspar Strait. It is placed on the chart in lat. V 39' S., long 106° 30' E., but from the follow- ing account its exact position is very doubtful. At sunset, Gaspar Peak bore S.E. f S., 14 miles distant. From this situation the Severn steered N.W. ^ N. 35 miles, and at daybreak struck on a coral reef, but got ojff after being lightened of 30 tons of ballast. The reef seemed to extend 2 or 3 miles N.N.E. and S.S.W., but where the vessel grounded there were 10 ft. water. The hills on Banka had the appearance of separate Islands, above which the Marass Mountain was visible, and the nearest land was computed to be about 20 miles distant. The Columhian, of New York, was wrecked on this shoal in March, 1824, when returnino- from China. The crew reached the harbour of Mintok in the long-boat, after having suffered much from deprivation and fatigue. Ivon Shoal,^ with 2f fathoms water over it, appears on the charts at 7 miles West of the Severn Shoal, in lat. 1° 39' S., long. 106° 21' E. Like the Severn and Actseon Shoals, it is much in the way of vessels passing between Graspar Strait and Toty Island. A douhtful danger is marked at 3 miles AV. by S. of it. Scheweningen Shoal. — The ship Scheweningen struck on an unknown bank in lat. 1° 19- 12' S., long. 106° 39' 48" E., about 14 leagues E. by N. from Crassock Point, the North extremity of Banka Island. Immediately after the ship struck, a sounding of 4 fathoms was obtained, and a second sound- ing showed a depth of 15 fathoms. Celestial Reefs. — The American ship Celestial saw abed of rocks under water in lat. r 16' S., long. 106° 50' E. ; sounded in 3 fathoms, but there appeared to be less water on the rocks ; the next cast of the lead was 17 fathoms. Vega Shoal was discovered in September, 1826, by Capt, Jose Antonio de Vega, of the Spanish frigate Vellos, which struck on it, but by carrying out an anchor she was hove off. It was described as being not more than a ship's length in extent, with 18 to 21 ft. water over it, and 9, 11, 17, and 22 fathoms around it. Capt. de Vega placed it in lat. 1° 10' S., long. 106° 34' E., by chronometers regulated the day previously at Gaspar Island. The barque Marquis of Hastings, Capt. Ingram, grounded upon this bank in May, 1830, who placed it in lat. 1° 6' S., and 106° 31i' E., by chronome- ters. Horsburg says that this ship struck on this shoal in April, 1832, and that Mr. Harris made it at the same time in 1° 4' S. and 106= 37' E. H.M.S. Rifleman, in December, 1863, was employed with her tender for three days in searching for the Vega Shoal, but without success. A small rocky patch, with 7 fathoms water over it, and 13, 15, and 17 fathoms all around, was discovered in lat. 1° 5' 30' S., long. 106' 35 J' E. Bad weather compelled the Rifleman to relinquish the search. A southerly current, varying from 1 to 1 J knots an hour, was experienced the whole time the Rifleman remained in this vicinity. 268 GASPAE STEAIT. Hawkins, or Wild Pigeon Shoal, we have no account of, and its position is also very doubtful. On the chart three positions are given : the first in lat, r 8' S., long. 106° 43' E. ; the second in lat. 1° 9', long. 106° 41^, with two fathoms marked against it ; and the third in lat. 1° 1 1', and the same longi- tude as the second position. Deva Eeef.— The ship Deva, Captain J. Pollock, at 5*> 30™ p.m. 23rd May, 1859, struck on a coral reef in about lat. 1° 9' S., long. 106° 52' E. The reef appeared to be about 60 yards in extent, N.E. and S.W., about 30 yarda broad, with 3 J fathoms on it, and 15 and 17 fathoms close-to. At daylight the next morning two reefs were in sight from the masthead ; the one the vessel grounded on, and the other, which was much the largest, considerably to the westward. Caution. — Probably the Deva and the Celestial are the same reefs, but until examined, this neighbourhood must be navigated with great caution ; and the whole group of the Vega, Hawkins, Celestial, and Deva Shoals, should be given a berth of 9 or 10 miles. DIRECTIONS FROM GASPAR STRAIT TO THE NORTHWARD.— Most vessels bound to the northward from Gaspar Strait, prefer passing eastward of Gaspar Island, which is the safest route ; but some vessels, especially when bound to Singapore by Ehio Strait, prefer the less safe but more direct route through the shoals westward of that island. To proceed Eastward of Gaspar Island with a fair wind, as before directed in pages 239, 240, and 256, 257, steer about N. by E. ^ E. if she passed through Macclesfield Channel, or about N. by W. or N.N.W. if she passed through either Stolze or Clements Channels, to pass 2 or 3 miles eastward of Gaspar Island, and 5 or 6 miles westward of Canning Rock. Having passed Gaspar, steer to the northward until it bears S. f "W., upon which bearing it should be kept as long as it can be seen. A N. | E. course from Gaspar will lead midway between Catharine Reef and Pratt Eock, and if Gaspar be brought on the opposite bearing soon after it is passed, it will afford a good opportunity to judge of the effect of the current, by noting the course that must be steered to preserve the proper bearing of the island ; and will also assist in forming a judgment as to the proper course to steer to pass midway between Catharine Eeef and Pratt Eock, after Gaspar Island has sunk below the horizon, and will no longer serve as a guide. If the wind should prevent a direct course from being steered, Gaspar Island should not be brought westward of N.N.W., until the vessel is north- ward of the Akbar Shoal ; and, after Gaspar is passed, it must be kept west- ward of S. by W., in order to avoid the Pare Joie Eock, the Belvedere, and the Magdalen Shoals. To proceed Westward of Gaspar Island between the Glassa Eock and Tree Island, from a position midway between them, steer to the northward until the peak of Gaspar Island bears S.E. j when a N.W. course will lead be- DIRECTIONS. 269 tween the Warren Hastings Reef on the port hand, and tlie Pare Joie Rock and Belvedere Shoals on the starboard hand. When Brekat Point bears S. by W., or the Saddles S. W. by S., a vessel will be westward of the Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, and a N. by W. or N.N.W. course, according to the set of the tide, will lead westward of the Magdalen and Newland Reefs, and eastward of the Actseon Rock. When nearing the Actaeon Rock, the soundings should not be shoaled under 20 fathoms ; after passing it, a course may be shaped for Toty Island. Gaspar Island, when 3 or 4 miles distant, kept between S.E. and S.E. by E. i E., will keep the vessel clear of the Pare Joie Rock, and of the Warren Hastings Reef. Brekat Point bearing S. by W., or the Saddles S.W. by S., leads westward of the Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, and Gaspar Island S.E., leads 3 miles eastward of the Dutch Shoal ; but when westward of the Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, it will be wise to edge away to the northward — always carefully guarding against tide and currents — taking care not to bring Gaspar Peak to the South of S. by E. ^ E., to avoid the Magdalen Reef. If proceeding between B*-ekat Point and Tree Island, the point may be passed at the distance of 3 or 2 miles, and the island at a mile ; then proceed to the N.N.W., taking care not to bring Tree Island to the South of S.E. by S., to avoid the S.W. end of Warren Hastings Reef. Brekat Point bearing S. by W. \ W., leads clear to the N.W. extreme of that reef ; and bearing S. J E. leads eastward of the reported positions of the Columbian and Dutch Shoals. When Brekat Point bears S. i W., a northerly course may be steered, pro- ceeding as before to pass eastward of the Actseon Rock. Horsburgh states that Capt. R. Scott, in the Warren Kastings, after passing' Brekat Point, coasted along to the northward, keeping generally in 11 or 12 fathoms water, without any appearance of danger, but a good mast-head lookout was kept. The passage, bowever, near the Banka coast is so beset with dangers, whose exact positions are unknown, and there may be others of which we at present know nothing, that we would strongly advise vessels to give this exceedingly dangerous coast a wide berth, especially as nothing is to be gained by approaching it. At p. 262 directions are given to proceed along this coast to Tanjoing Riah. Directions to approacli Gaspar Strait from the Northward. — In consequence of the northern entrance of Gaspar Strait being so near the equator, the winds, even in the strength of the monsoon, are very uncertain, producing a corresponding uncertainty in the direction and force of the tides and cur- rents. A vessel approaching the strait from the northward will, therefore, bave to be principally guided by the winds and currents which she may herself fall in with, rather than by relying upon experiencing those which are here mentioned as most likely to be met with at certain seasons. 270 GASPAE STRAIT. In the early part of the monsoon, that is, from the middle of November to the middle or end of December, northerly and north-westerly winds are said to prevail, but Horsburgh mentions an instance of vessels meeting with strong West and W.S.W. winds in December. As the monsoon gathers strength and becomes more regular, the wind draws to the eastward of North, and late in the monsoon, easterly and south-easterly winds are often met with between Banka and Billiton. In thick weather it will always be an anxious time for the navigator whilst approaching Gaspar Strait, for unless good sights can be obtained, he can never be certain of his exact position ; and we would again strongly advise him, under any circumstances, to steer for Banka Strait, where the soundings on the edge of the bank extending from the Sumatra coast will enable him to proceed with safety, although he may be quite unable to distinguish the land. Vessels returning from Singapore or China early in the northern monsoon, and intending to go through Gaspar Strait, prefer the Macclesfield Channel, passing between Toty and Docan Islands; but it is better to go 12 or 14 miles to the eastward of the latter, and even more, when the wind is easterly ; but early in the monsoon the wind is generally North or N.W. Having passed Toty Island, steer about S.E. by E., so as to get on the meridian of Caspar Island before reaching the parallel of 1° 50' S. Caspar is visible in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles. Directly it is seen, steer towards it on a S. f W. bearing, and, passing eastward of it, steer to the south-westward for the entrance of the Macclesfield Channel. The above directions apply only to vessels returning from China early in the monsoon. In general, and especially returning late in the monsoon from China, when the S.E. and easterly winds are often met with between Banka and Billiton, it will be better to go 10 or 12 miles to the westward of St. Barbe Island, and endeavour as soon as possible to get on the meridian of Gaspar Island, but not to the westward of it when near the parallel of the Catharine Eeef, which should never be passed at night. When Gaspar is seen, bring it on a S. | W. bearing, and proceed as before. Eeturning from China late in the monsoon, S.S.W. winds are often met in the southern part of the China Sea, and oblige vessels to pass between the islands near the West coast of Borneo. If this should happen in May or June, it would be very tedious to get to the southward ; in such case, steer for the north-western end of Billiton, and pass through Stolze Channel. CHAPTEE YII. CARIMATA STRAIT. Carimata Strait, the easternmost of the channels leading between Sumatra and Borneo, is bounded on the eastern side by Carimata, Soruetou, and the other islands adjacent to the southern part of the West coast of Borneo ; and on the western side by the East coast of Billiton, with the adjoining islands and dangers. It is often used by vessels from Malacca Strait, pro- ceeding to China by the eastern passages, but although much broader than either Banka or Caspar Straits, it is not nearly so much frequented as either of those channels by vessels proceeding to and from China by way of Sunda Strait. It is, however, not unfrequently used by vessels returning from China, which, from the effects of winds or currents, find it difficult to get to the westward. This strait has not been properly surveyed. Capts. Ross and Maughan, of the Indian Navy, determined the positions of many of the dangers on each side of it, but much of the information which we possess has been derived from accounts furnished by vessels that have passed through it. In using it, therefore, a vessel must keep a good lookout, and be as far as possible pre- pared to meet with unknown dangers. Besides the Main Channel, limited to the south-eastward by the islands of Soruetou and Carimata, and to the south-westward by the Montaran Islands and Billiton, there are several other channels between the numerous islands lying eastward and north-eastward of Carimata, between it and the Borneo coast, through which vessels have occasionally passed. One of these, known as the Inner Channel, and situated between the islands of Panambungan and Mayang, is much frequented by vessels working through the strait against the monsoon, for a regular tide will be found near the Borneo coast, which enables them to work through the Inner Channel when it is quite impossible to work tlirough the Main Channel against a strong monsoon, and a con- tinuous rapid current setting to leeward. Currents and Tides. — The currents in Carimata Strait appear to set mostly 272 CARIMATA STRAIT. to the southward in the northerly monsoon, for many ships have found it almost impracticable to beat to the northward in that season. Captain Ross, in the Discovery, found a constant southerly current in this stuait ; on Febru- ary 15th he was off Pulo Mankap, and from hence continued beating along the West coast of Borneo, and afterwards on the South and West sides of Carimata and its adjacent islands until March 16th, when he got round the western end of Soruetou. In the southerly monsoon it does not appear to be so difficult to get to the southward, for there are regular tides along the West coast of Borneo, and also oflf the East coast of Billiton in this season, which seem to extend in some degree across Carimata Strait, the flood appa- rently setting 12 hours to the northward, and the ebb about 12 hours in the opposite direction. The rise of tide, as experienced by Captain Ross, was about 9 or 10 ft., at full and change of the moon. A DESCRIPTION of that portion of the dangers southward of Billiton, which lie contiguous to Gaspar Strait, in given at page 250. The following islands and dangers lie nearer Carimata Strait, and are important to vessels approaching it from the southward. KEBATOE, or SHOE ISLAND, in lat. 3° 48' S., long. 108° 4' E., is nearly half a mile long in an East and West direction, and 400 yards broad ; it is conical in shape, thickly wooded, 346 ft. high, and visible 18 or 19 miles from a ship's deck in clear weather. The island is steep-to, with a coast or fringing reef extending 1 cable from the North and West sides ; and half a cable from the South and East sides. White Island, 57 ft. high, having a few stunted trees on the top, lies S.W. 1 mile from Kebatoe Island. A small shoal, with 6 ft. water, lies N.E. | E., 3 cables from White Island. Zephyr Hock, supposed to lie W. J S., 4 miles from Kebatoe Island, was searched for by the boats of H.M.S. Nassau in 1876, when a depth of 14 fathoms (mud bottom) was obtained in that position ; but, at three- quarters of a mile W. by S. from Kebatoe, and 6 cables N.N. W. \ W. from White Island, a rock, on which the sea generally breaks, having 3 feet over it, was found, and this position has been assumed for that of the Zephyr Rock. A roch, said to exist N.W. by W. ^ W., 8 miles distant from Kebatoe Island, was carefully searched for by the boats of H.M.S. Nassau, but could not be found. The depth of 14 fathoms, mud bottom, was obtained. From the nature of the examination non-existence of the rock in the position assigned to it is assured. Karang Kawat, or Grace Reefs, consist of two coral reefs, the centres of which lie N.E. by N. 4^, and 6^ miles respectively from Kebatoe Island. The southern reef, on which the sea breaks heavily in moderate weather, is awash at low water ; this reef is 3| cables long in an East and West direction, and 2 cables broad, with 12 to 17 fathoms at the distance of three- quarters of a cable. The northern reef is 3 cables long in an East and West SOUTH COAST OF BILLITON. 273 direction, 2 cables broad, dries 4 ft. at low water, and has 13 to 16 fathoms at the distance of half a cable. Between Kebatoe Island and the southern Karang Kawat there is a clear channel 3f miles wide, with depths of 14 to 17 fathoms, mud bottom ; and between the southern and northern Karang Kawats there is a channel If mile wide, having also 14 to 17 fathoms, mud ; the holding ground in both these channels is good. A ship ought never to attempt the passage inside Shoe Island, except in very clear and favourable weather. Heroine Shoal is in lat. 3° 37' S., long, about 107° 52' E., or in lat. 3° 37' S., long. 107° 49' E. ; its exact position is, however, doubtful, and it was not seen by the officers of H.M.S. Nassau in 1876. It is reported to be an ex- tensive shoal with breakers upon it. It was passed at about the distance of 1^ mile, when Two-peaked Mountain on Billiton bore N.N.W. ; a small island N.E. by E. ^ E. ; and shoe Island, seen from the mizen-shrouds, S.E. Katapang Island, in lat. 3° 23' S., long. 107° 57^' E., is low and wooded, about a third of a mile in diameter, and surrounded by a reef. Around it are soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms, and the same depths between it and the shore, where, however, no vessel should venture. The whole of the coasts of Billiton are but very imperfectly known, but it is certain that they are fronted by many dangers, and vessels are strongly fidviaed to avoid them. SOUTH COAST of BILLITON.— From Karawang Point, the S.W. ex- treme of Billiton, the coast trends to the eastward for 2 or 3 miles, and then turns sharply to the north-eastward, forming a deep bay, the eastern horn of which is the most southern point of the island, and is distant 21 miles eastward from Karawang Point. This bay is named Teloh Batoh, which in the Malay language signifies rocky bay, and it appears from the chart to be full of dangers, with others extending some 2 or 3 miles outside its chord. Southward and westward from the eastern horn of the bay are some small islets lying within the margin of the reef which projects from the j)oint. EAST COAST.— From the eastern point of Telok Batoh Bay the coast trends East-northerly for 6 or 7 miles, to the S.E. point of the island, 9 or 10 miles N.E. of which is a prominent point named Sakapar. Between these two latter points is a bay, in which are several islands ; and fronting it are also several islands. N. by E. i E. 17 miles from Sakapar Point is Mangar Point, having a hill upon it, the coast between forming a bay 2 or 3 miles deep. Northward of Mangar Point is another small bay. The East and N.JE. sides of Billiton are fronted by several groups of small islands, most of them being surrounded with or connected by rocks, sands, and shoals ; the outernmost of these shoals has been recently reported in 25° 9' S, 108° 21' E., or 13i miles N.E. by E. from Sakapar Point. I. A. 2n 274 CAEIMATA STRAIT. These dangers are so imperfectly known, that it is not possible to give any accurate description of them here. They do not lie in the track of ordinary navigation, and if a vessel ventures near them she must do so with caution and judgment, and without placing too great confidence in the chart. SCHARVOGEL ISLANDS are a group of seven islands, the easternmost of which by the chart is in lat. 3° 18' S., long. 108° 28' E. The islands are from 90 to 120 ft. high, and thickly wooded, having between them numerous reefs and sandbanks. The relative positions of these islands with each other is uncertain. Between the northern island and the Meray group is a channel 3 or 4 miles wide, with 5 to 9 fathoms water in it. It is bounded on either side by the reefs which extend northward from the islands. Northern Coasts of Billiton. — From the N.E. point of Billiton the coast rounds gradually to the North, and then takes a general direction about N.W. by W. to the N.W. Hook or Point. The aspect of the coast is high, uneven land, visible in clear weather 24 or 25 miles off. Outer Bangers off the North Coast of Billiton. — Pigeon Island, lying 3 or 4 miles off the coast, with the N.E. extreme of Billiton bearing S.E. by S., and the N.W. hill on Nangka Island E. by N. h N., distant 21 miles, is very small, and surrounded by rocks or patches of reef, which also extend 3 miles to the south-eastward of it. About N.E. by E. i E. 5 miles from the island, a small sandhanh was seen by the Bellhaven in 1857, probably at high water. A small rock or patch, with 2 fathoms water over it, is placed on the chart, N.N.E., 7 miles from the Pigeon Island, and a second at the same distance E.N.E. of it. At 5 miles eastward of Pigeon Island is the "West end of a sandbank, which thence extends for 5 miles to the E.S.E., with an average breadth of 2^ miles. On one spot on its N.E. side, in lat. 2° 37' S., long. 108° 18' E., it is reported to dry. There are other islets and dangers between Pigeon Island and the N.W. point of Billiton ; their exact positions, however, are not well known. Krang Island lies 13 miles West from Pigeon Island, and 3 miles off shore, N.N.W. 2 miles from it, is a sandbank. Bjoeroh Bajong Rocks lie 2 miles West from the sandbank, and 2 miles N.N.E. from Maleh Island. The Eijdrograf Rod, of 9 ft., 6 miles off shore, is marked in 2° 28' S., 107° 53' E., at 5J miles N.W. of it is a rock recently discovered in 1877, the outermost off this coast. At 3 miles West of the Hydrograf Eock is a 3-fathom patch, and W.S.W. 5J miles from the 3-fathom patch is the Seloeting Eeef, of 2 fathoms, which lies N.E. I E. 8 miles from Cape Bienga, the N.W. cape of Billiton. ( 275 ) ISLANDS AND DANQEES IN THE FAIEWAY. Discovery West Bank {Ayer Masein), in lat. 3° 38' S., long. 108° 44' 30" E., was examined by Captain Eoss, I.N., in the surveying ship Discovery. It is of coral, about 6 cables in extent North and South, and 2 cables broad, having near its western edge a small sandbank, awash at high-water springs. There are depths of 16 to 20 fathoms around Discovery West bank at a distance of three-quarters of a cable. Discovery Reef lies N.E. by E. J E. 5i miles from Discovery West Bank, and is in lat. 3° 35' 45" S., long. 108° 49' 25" E. ; this reef is 2 cables in di- ameter, having several coral heads awash at high water, and 14 to 22 fa- thoms around it at the distance of 1 cable. Discovery East Bank* {Mampango), in lat. 3° 34' 40" S., long. 109° 12' 35" E., is A^ cables long in a North and South direction, and 1 J cable broad, having in its centre a decayed white coral ridge 2 cables long, a few yards broad, and 5 ft. above high water ; there are 14 to 24 fathoms, sand, around this bank, at a distance of 1 cable. Discovery East Bank is visible from aloft on a clear day at a distance of 7 to 8 miles. Lavender Bank {Byuruh), in lat. 3° 24' S., long. 109° 1' 30" E., was dis- covered by Captain Lavender, of the ship Rotnan, who passed it bearing East about a quarter of a mile distant, in soundings from 20 to 26 fathoms. It is 7 cables long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 2 cables broad. It is composed of coral, with several large boulders awash at high water. Around this bank there is a depth of 20 fathoms, sand and shells, at the distance of a cable. During a south-easterly breeze the sea on Lavender Bank has been observed from aloft to break at a distance of 6 miles. Cirencester Sandbank {Batmn), in lat. 3° Hf S., long. 108° 59' E., is about half a mile in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 1 cable broad. It is chiefly composed of live coral heads, with 1 to 3 fathoms between them ; at 1^ cable within the northern extreme of this bank there is a flat circular patch of dead coral awash at low-water springs, 1 cable wide, having on its western edge a boulder awash at high water. The depth of water increases towards the bank, there being 25 fathoms close off the North end, 32 fathoms off the South end, and 35 fathoms about three-quarters of a mile to the west- ward ; with a good lookout it may be seen from the mast-head about 8 miles at low water, but probably not above 3 or 4 at high tide. Two miles east- * From the following remarks in possession of Captain Stephen Stocker, R.N., who was mate of H.M.S. Hecate in 1813, it would appear that this bank was discovered by that vessel:— "Steering to the southward out of Carimata Strait, we discovered a dry sand- bank, 12 or 13 ft. above water, in about lat. 3' 40' S., long. 109» 4' E. Passed about three- quarters of a mile eastward of it, and had soundings of 21 to 25 fathoms." 276 CAEIMATA STEAIT. ward of the bank the Cirencester had very irregular soundings, from 1 6 to 20 fathoms, changing at almost every cast of the lead. Shoal. — Captain Irwin, of the Arica, in 1869, intending to lay-to for the night, southward of Scharvogel Islands, came suddenly close to a rock, from 50 to 60 ft. long, the shoalest part having about 6 ft. water, from that to 18 feet over the remainder. Position, South from the South Island and S. by W. I W. from the eastern islet, in about lat. 3° 31' S., long. 108° 25' E. Bower Shoal, discovered by H.M.S. Nassau in 1876, is in lat. 3° 28' 45" S., long. 108° 40' 30" E. It is a coral patch, three-quarters of a cable in extent? having 9 ft. water on it, and 9 to 1 1 fathoms close around. Osterly North and South Shoals were examined by H.M.S. Discovery, and afterwards, in 1874, by Lieut W. Pearce, in H.M.S. Sylvia. Osterly South Shoal, in lat. 3° 19' S., long. 108° 37' E., is 2 cables in extent North and South, with 6 to 12 ft. water on it. and 10 to 14 fathoms close around; near the centre of the shoal there is a white dead coral islet, about 40 ft. long, and 3 ft. above high water. Osterly North Shoal, situated about 19 cables N.E. from the islet on Osterly South Shoal, is about a quarter of a mile in extent, awash at low water, and has from 10 to 15 fathoms close around. By day this shoal may be distinguished from the greenish tint of the water ; but at night it is exceedingly dangerous to vessels passing eastward of the Scharvogel Islands. In the vicinity of these shoals the ebb tide was observed to set to the southward, and the flood to the northward. The Discovery anchored in 1 1 fathoms, soft ground, with North Shoal East 2 miles, when the boat had from 5 to 7 fathoms rocks on another shoal, bear- ing S. h W. from the ship about a quarter of a mile. From the Discovery the extremes of the Scharvogel Group bore "W. 15i° S. to W. 15° N., the nearest island distant about 8 miles, and a high distant hill N.W. When Discovery was anchored in the above position, breakers were seen from the mast-head bearing S.S.E. distant about 4 miles (?), on what is named Osterly South Shoal. Many eddies were also seen around. Cirencester Rock, or Shoal, in lat. 2° 54|^' S., long. 108° 56' E., was seen by the Cirencester on the same day that she discovered the sand-bank de- scribed above. The least depth found upon it was 2 fathoms at low water, and there is probably 3^ fathoms on it at high tide ; close around the sound- ings were 17, 16, and 15 fathoms. The shoal is narrow, and not more than 100 yards in length, North and South. It was not discovered by the boats sounding for it until the rocks were seen under the bottom. Admiral Protet Reef, Sfc. — A reef, with about 6 or 7 ft. water, lies near the assigned but doubtful position (2° 58f S., 108° 34^' E., or 3° S., 108° 30' E.) of a shoal named Admiral Protet ; from it Slandak Island bears W. f S., and Liendorg, one of the Scharvogel Islands, S.S.AV. ; the position given is in lat. 2^ 59' S., lung. 108° 38' E. MONT ARAN ISLANDS. 277 MONTARAN ISLANDS, lying off the N.E. part of BilHton, consist of three straggling groups, which, with the many dangers that lie near them, are very imperfectly known, and appear to be most inaccurately laid dowa upon the chart. The navigator is therefore cautioned to be very vigilant when near these islands. Lieut. W. Pearce, R.N., examined East Island, Catherine Eeef, and Small Island, in H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1874. Nangka, or Tohohemo, the largest and highest of the Montaran Islands, has a high hill on each extreme ; and, being low in the middle, appears like two islands till within 8 or 9 miles of it ; but it cannot be mistaken when a vessel is 17 or 18 miles to the northward, as none of the low islands near it are seen at that distance. Close to the North point of this high saddle island of Nangka lies an islet covered with bushes, and they are united by a reef which extends about 1^ mile to the northward ; a reef projects also about half a mile from the South point of the island. West Group. — About 2^ miles S. by E. from Nangka are three low islands, named West Group, with apparently much broken water about them, and a dry sand-bank about 4 miles south-eastward of them ; there is also a high white sand-bank about 4 miles south-eastward of them. Between West Group and Middle Group the water is shoal, and a dan- gerous reef very little above water lies midway between them. A second doubtful danger, named High Bank, is marked at 3 miles south-eastward of Gampal, the southern island of the Western Group. Na/pier Island lies 4 miles W. ^ N. from Gampal; it is wooded, and 185 ft. high. Some islets and rocks lie between 1^ and ?>h miles southward of it, and a sandbank a mile long between 1 and 2 miles S.E. of its eastern extremity. The Middle Group consists of four or five islands, lying from 6 to 12 miles to the eastward of the West Group. The southernmost island is in lat. 2° ;36' S., and when approached by the Fox frigate, it appeared to be in- habited, and the water very shoal around. It appears to have been upon one of the reefs off these islands that the Ahercromhie was lost, a fine ship of 1,200 tons burden, belonging to Bombay. East Island, or Pesemot, at the eastern extremity of the group, was ex- amined by Lieut. W. Pearce, in H.M.S. Si/!via, in 1874. It is in lat. 2° 29' S., long. 108° 51' 40" E., and about half a mile in extent North and South. The island is of coral formation, thickly wooded, and surrounded by a sandy beach, the trees in the centre forming a sharply pointed summit, 130 ft. high, making the island conspicuous and easily recognised when seen from a dis- tance. On the western side of the island rocks were seen above water about 1 cable from the shore ; there is also a sand-bank about 1 mile N. by W. from this island. Skeletons of turtle were seen on East Island, so that it may be assumed they visit to deposit their eggs. A sand-hank is marked at 1 mile N. by W. from East Island. Luctor Shoal.— The Dutch barque Ludor and Eiaerfjo touched on a reef, 278 CAEIMATA STEAIT. from which Nangka bore West, East Island E. f N., and the westernmost island of the Middle Group S. by E., which places the rock in lat. 2° 32' 8., long. 108° 44' E. Small Island, IJ mile S.S.W. i^ W. from East Island, flat and covered with trees in the centre, appeared to be about the same length as East Island. The channel between these islands is said to be shallow. Dangers Eastward of East Island. — A sand-hanh, having a few patches above water, was seen from the Sylviah boat, about 1 mile E. by S. from East Island ; the bank appeared about three-quarters of a mile long, in an East and West direction, but it was not examined. A sand-hank, according to an old report, lies S.E. by E. J E. about 4 miles from East Island. About a hundred yards all round this bank the depths were from 10 to 18 fathoms, shoaling suddenly towards it. In the centre of the bank there is a coral rock (3 ft. above water.) ? Catherine, or Evans Reef. — On December 17th, 1840, a ship, commanded by Captain E. M. Smith, was wrecked on a coral reef, in lat. 2° 30J' S., long. 108° 59^' E. In no part was it within a fathom of the surface, and in calm weather no breaker nor any indication of the reef could be perceived, the current running to the N.E. 4 or 5 knots. Again, the ship Catherine, Capt. Evans, at 2'' 15" p.m., struck on this ledge of rocks, with East Island bear- ing W. i N., distant 8 miles, and Carimata Peak N. 4° W. It is formed of sharp coral rocks, extends N.W. and S.E. a cable's length, and the least water found on it was 2 fathoms. Soundings were obtained in difierent di- rections ; they were 4 to 9 fathoms about N.W. of the ship, and to the S.E. a little less than a cable distant. Though a strong current was setting to the southward, there was no appearance of broken or discoloured water. Capt. Evans places the reef in lat. 2° 31^' S., long. 108° 57' E. Catherine or Evans Eeef was unsuccessfully searched for by the boats of H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1874, in the position given by the master of the Catherine, namely with East Island bearing W. ^ N., distant 8 miles, and Carimata Peak N. 4° W. During the examination, however, a shoal, having 4^ fathoms on it and 8 to 17 fathoms close around, was found at 4^ miles E. J S. from East Island, or in lat. 2° 31' 30" S., long. 108° 54' 30" E. (From this position Carimata Peak bears N. 3x° W.) Although 4^ fathoms was the least depth obtained by the Sylvia, it was considered probable that less water might be found. Also, that other shoal ground existed in the neigh- bourhood. Corsyra Shoal. — The Corcyra, Capt. Walison, in August, 1858, discovered a shoal of 15 ft. water, about half a cable's length in circumference, with Round Hill on Billiton bearing S. 57° W., and the northernmost small island of Nangka, just open of the large one, N. 61° W. ; but those bearings will not lay down upon the chart. Eeputed position, 2° 31' S., 108° 30' E. Maas en Waal Shoal, discovered by the steam ship of that name, has 18 ft. SOEUETOU ISLAND. 279 water over it. From the shoal Pulo Sambilan is in line with the South peak of Pulo Naugka, bearing E. ^ N., distant about 6 miles. The position of this shoal was reported as lat. 2° 32' 30" S., long. 108° 27' E. It is marked on the Admiralty chart 6 miles westward of this position. Condor Reef. — The ship Condor struck on this shoal, but did not stop to examine it ; the ship, however, made water immediately after she struck. It lies N. by E. ^ E. 8i miles from Nangka Island, in lat. 2° 22' 20" S., long. 108° 37' 15" E. Some rocks lie 8 miles S.W. of Condor Eeef. Ontario Reef, the centre of which is in lat. 2° 1^' S., long. 108° 39' E., is very dangerous, as it lies in the direct tract formerly recommended to ships when passing between Soruetou and Billiton. It was discovered by Captain Whetten, in the American ship Ontario, which was lost on it January 4th, 1799. It is composed of sharp spiral rocks, with the tops of some of them dry at low water spring tides ; but the small break against their sharp points cannot be distinguished from the topping of a common sea ; and the shoal is steep-to, having 18 and 19 fathoms at a ship's length from the rocks. From the wreck of the Ontario the north-eastern end of the Quoin (on the western part of Soruetou) was just shut in with the western end of Sorue- tou ; the East end of Soruetou bearing N.N.E. was open about a quarter of a point from the West end of Carimata. No other land in sight from the reef. The soundings are no guide in the approach to this dangerous shoal, there being 23 and 24 fathoms close to it on the North and East sides, 18 to 25 fathoms nearly close to the rocks on the West side, and 25 fathoms clay, at the distance of a cable's length. The shoal was examined by Capt. Eoss, I.N., who found it half a mile in extent W.N.W. andE.S.E. ; and one of the Montaran Islands was visible from the main-top, bearing S. 6J° W. Waller Rock. — There is said to be a coral rock, with 3 fathoms water over it, at 5 miles to the westward of the Ontario Eeef. Rival Reef we have no account of. It is marked on the chart with 5J fa- thoms over it, rocky bottom, in lat. 1° 47' S., long. 108" \bh' E. Florence Adelaide Reef. — The British ship Florence Adelaide, bound from Cardifi'to Singapore, in 1863, was reported to have been wrecked on a sup- posed coral reef, lying in about lat. 2° S., long. 108° E. The reef had 16 ft, water on it in the place where the vessel struck, but its extent and the least depth over it was not ascertained. Hooghly Rocks. — The master of the French ship Hooghly, in 1872, sighted three rocks in lat. 1° 35' S., long. 108° 12' E. They bore East and West of each other, and from the westward appeared as a haycock, a sugar-loaf, and a small tree; the haycock, 16 ft., being the highest out of the water. The position was determined by ooservations of the Peak of C-'rimata. SORUETOU ISLAND, about 6 miles long East and West, 2 miles wide, 1,400 ft. high, and visible 28 or 30 miles otf, forms the north-eastern limit of the broad main channels of Carimata Strait. The western point of the island 280 CARIMATA STRAIT. is in lat. 1° 42i' S., long. 108° 39J' E., and on it is a hummock, which has been mistaken for a small island, and called the Quoin, from its appearance. About 2 or 3 miles off the West end of the island the depths are 20 to 26 fathoms. Breakers are said to have been seen from the mast-head of the ship Aurora, bearing S. by W. ^ W., distant about 3 miles, when the eastern extremity of Soruetou bore E. by N. i N., the other extreme being obscured by clouds. At a sandy beach on the South side of Soruetou, and near the East point, there is a good watering place, but high tide is required for a large boat to get over a reef. It is said, however, that fresh water can only be got at the West end of the island, at the foot of a hill of moderate height, where a ship may anchor in 10 fathoms. CARIMATA ISLAND lies north-eastward of Soruetou, from which it is separated by a narrow channel. It is about 11 miles in extent East and West, 7 miles North and South, and near its centre is a peak rising to an elevation of 2,000 or 2,986 ft., which maybe seen at the distance of about 45 miles. On the S. W. end of the island are some hot springs. Reefs and dangers extend off the East and South coasts of Carimata ; and at 6| miles S.S.E. from the South point of the island is a gravel patch, having 4 fathoms water over it. Two rocks above water, with others below the surface, appear to lie 3 or 4 miles off the middle part of the West coast ; and off the N. W. point of the island are numerous islets and rocks, the outer of which, Tongado Island, is 3 miles westward of the point. The channel between Soruetou and the reef which extends from the South coast of Carimata is about 2 miles wide, with depths of 10 to 17 fathoms; but no object is to be gained by using it. Jamsetti Reef, with 19 ft. water over it, lies 7 miles N. by W. f W. from the North point of Carimata Island, and N.E. J N. lOJ miles from Tongado Island. Leema Isles are a group of small islets lying North about 18 miles from the northern side of Carimata ; near them the soundings are 12 to 14 fathoms. Wellesley Shoalis said to lie in lat. 1° 18' S , long. 108^ 34J' E., but its position is doubtful. Crescent Shoal, also of doubtful existence, is said to lie in lat. 1° 10' S., long. 108° 38' E. Erikson Shoal, of 4| fathoms, is placed on the chart in lat 1° 5' S., 108" 29i' E. China Reef. — The commander of the China reported, in 1871, that his ship struck on a reef, 4 miles North of the last named, on which there is 10 ft. of water. It is about a quarter of a mile long, and stretches out from N. W. to S.E. Its position is in lat. 1° 1' 15" S., long. 108° 30' E. GREIG SHOAL was discovered by Capt. William Greig, of the ship Lord, Minto, who found it to extend from lat. 0° 52' to 0° 58' S., long. 108° 37' E. ; the longitude, however, cannot be relied upon as being correct. Five fathoms WEST COAST OF BORNEO, ETC. 281 water were found within the extent given above, but on the extremes of the shoal the vessel was often in nearly the same depth of water as she was drawing, 1 3 feet, and this was in steering between much shoaler spots, with the body of Carimata then seen from the deck, bearing between S.S.E. f E. and S.E. by S. ; the least water found was 12 ft. ; but, in a more recent ex- amination, a spot with 8 ft. water only was found, in lat. 0' 55' 30' S., long. 108' 28' E. ; from this spot Penambungan Island bears E.S.E., and the peak of Carimata Island S.S.E. f E. The shoal is circular in shape, and ab .ut 1^ cable in diameter. Columbus Shoal.— On the 24th of November, 1869, the ship Columbus, G. Croot, master, in lat. 0' 51' S., long. 108° 16' E., struck soundings in 5 fathoms, hard sand or rock ; the ship then tacked and stood to the N.W. ; on standing back again, and when about 5 miles S.S.W. of the first position, soundings in 6 fathoms were again obtained; tacked and stood off to 17 fathoms, after which no shoaler water was found. The weather at the time was squally, and no land in sight. WEST COAST OF BORNEO, ETC. The southern part of the West coast of Borneo, from Sambar Point (its S.W. extreme) to abreast of the Masien Tiega Islets, is very imperfectly known. Two of its ports Sinkawang and Pontianak, are visited by the Netherlands Indian Steam Navigation Company's steamers, but the trade of the coast is mostly carried on by small vessels, owned and commanded by Chinamen or Malays connected either with the Dutch settlements in Bor- neo or Java, or with Singapore. SAMBAR POINT is in about lat. 2= 56' 30" S., long. 110^ 15' E., and Mount Minto in 2"" 14' S., 110° 3' E., and between them the coast falls back and forms two bays. Mount Minto is upon the North point of the northern bay, and aboat 16 miles S.E. by E. ^ E. from it is a high peak. The islands of Mankap, Laag, Kumpal, and some smaller ones, together with several dangers, lie off this part of the coast, and are described hereafter. N. J W., distant 22 miles from Mount Minto Point, is Bree Point, the coast between forming a bay 5 or 6 miles deep, in which are several small rivers. Close to the northward of Bree Point is the Pawang River, which has two entrances, separated by an island 3 or 4 miles in breadth. From the entrance of the Pawang the coast trends with an irregular out- line in a general North direction for about 45 miles, to the entrance of the large river Simpang. On this part of the coast are several small rivers, and about midway between the Pawang and Simpang are the islets Sepadian, Tjampedak, Dato, &c., with the islands of Joanta and Batoang, 7 or 8 miles I. A. 2 o 282 WEST COAST OF BORNEO. in the offing. About 7 miles southward of the entrance of the Simpang is the island of Palmtoan, lying close to a point of the coast, inside of which on a small river is the town of Pamharawang . Two or three miles southward of Pambarawang is the town of Succadana. Succadana, or Sukadana, "Parrot's Gift," is an unimportant place. It is a part of the Netherland province on the West coast of Borneo, and was once a Javanese state. There is good anchorage in 3 or 4 fathoms in the roadstead off these towns, with a group of small islands to the southward. The coast above described is low land, and it has seldom been approached under 12 or 10 fathoms, being fronted by islets or rocky ground in some parts. From the entrance of the Simpang Eiver, the coast trends for about 40 miles in a W.N.W. direction to a point about 4 miles north-eastward of the Masien Tiega Islands. On this part of the coast are several other islands, and separated from it by a very narrow channel is the large island of Mayang, w^hich is principally low land, but near its south-western end is a high hill. Mount Marang ; and near its north-western end a long range fronting the sea, named Mount Mayah. The West Coast of Borneo, from a point 10 miles northward of the Masien Tiega Islets, takes a general direction about N.N.W. for a distance of 50 miles, when it trends towards the Pontianak River. Two or three small islands are shown on the chart as lying close to this part of the coast, and the entrance of the Sanjavay, one of the branches of the Pontianak, is about 15 miles to the southward of the main entrance of the latter river. The fol- lowing remarkable phenomenon was experienced by Captain Pearson, of the brig Lady of the Lake, in the months of May and June, while sailing along this coast on two different voyages : — "June 2nd, 1833, at daylight, when sailing along the coast in 10 fathoms water, experienced a singular incident ; fresh water on one side the vessel, and salt water on the other, which continued for an hour whilst sailing about 2 miles on the boundary line of salt and fresh water. We filled all our empty casks with good drinkable water on one side of the vessel, when it was quite salt on the opposite side ; our distance then 2^ or 3 miles off shore, lat. 0" 8' S., with the appearance of the mouth of a great river abreast, which must be navigable for large vessels, as the water deepened in crossing its direction." This was probably the Sanjavay River, one of the branches of the Pontianak, several of which reach the sea between the equator and lat. 0° 20' S. PONTIANAK RIVER entrance is in lat. 0° 2' N., long. 109° 10' E., and distant 35 miles E. f S. from Pulo Datoe- The anchorage in the road is in 3i to 55 fathoms, with the river's mouth bearing E. by S. h S., or E.S.E., Pulo Datoe W. i N. or W. ^ N., and the extremes of Borneo from S. \ E. TANJONG ^FAMrAWA. 283 to N.N.W. ^ W., oif shore about 4 or 5 miles. A shoal mud-bank projects some distance from the mouth of the river, and although the bar is nearly dry at low water, there are 8 or 10 ft. on it at high spring tides. The town is about 12 miles from the entrance, and has a fort; and at Balu Lasrong, about 7 miles up, there is a fort on each side. These two places are some- times visited by Bengal traders. Buoys. — Outside the poles which mark the channel of the Pontianak Eiver, two Herbert's buoys are placed. A white buoy in 3 fathoms water, with Pulo Batoe bearing W. 4° N., and Pulo Temadyo showing over the low foreland, N. 29° W. The second buoy is black, moored in 2f fathoms water N. 12° E. from the preceding buoy, and with Pulo Datoe bearing W. 2° N., and Pulo Temadyo N. 30° W. These buoys are moored about W.N.W. 2^ miles from the mouth of the river. Pontianak, a Malay town and state, is the chief place of the Netherlands Administration of their western province of Borneo. There is a considerable trade with Batavia and Singapore. The river is said to be navigable by the light draught steamer stationed upon it, for a distance of 200 miles. Some bullocks and hogs may be procured at Pontianak, and also at Mam- pawa ; but boats must go far up the Pontianak to procure fresh water during the dry season, which makes watering at this river very inconvenient. TANJONG MAMPAWA is in lat. 0° 19^' N., long. 108° 54' E., and bears N.W, 23 miles from the entrance of the Pontianak, the coast between form- ing a bay. About 4 miles eastward of the point is Mampawa River, which is only navigable for proas ; there is a fort at the town of Mampawa, a few miles inside the entrance. The anchorage in the road is in 5 to 8 fathoms, about 3 or 4 miles off shore, with the mouth of the river N. by E. |- E. ; or to the westward of the point at discretion, bearing in mind that the sound- ings decrease rather suddenly under a depth of 10 fathoms. H.M.S. Rifleman, in 1862, anchored off Mampawa Point, but could not find the landing-place mentioned in Horsburgh as being there. Her boats went up to the town of Mampawa, and succeeded in obtaining a few fowls and eggs. The Tides in Mampawa Eoad run about 2 miles per hour, nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W. The coast from Mampawa Point takes a general direction nearly N. by W. for 28 miles, to Tanjong Batoe Blad. At 9 miles from Mampawa Point is Tanjong Samoedin, and between these points is a bay, about 2 miles deep, with a small round islet in the depth of it. The western part of this islet was used as an observation spot by the ofScers of H.M. surveying-vessel Rifleman, and its position was ascertained to be in lat. 0° 24' N., long. 108° 56' E. At 18 miles northward from Samoedin Point is Tanjong Sangoa, having a small islet close to it, and Samassu Island and Kran Islet lying about half a mile off it. On either side of Sangoa Point, the coast line 284 WEST COAST OF BORNEO. curves gently back, forming bays, towards which the soundings decrease gra- dually. Mountains. — The coast between the Pontianak River and Batoe Blad Point is marked by many remarkable mountains, some rising boldly up near the sea, and others several miles back from it. A long continuous range runs eastward from Tanjong Sedow Malang (5 miles north-eastward of Tan- jong Batoe Blad) for a distance of 12 or 13 miles. Pulo Sitenga, its centre in lat. 0° 22' N., long. 108° 44' 40" E., is small, three-quarters of a mile long N.N.E, and S.S.W., nearly half a mile broad, and moderately elevated. Close around it are 6 to 8 fathoms water, and from 11 to 16 fathoms, clay bottom, at a short distance from it. Pulo Damar, lying N.E. f E., 2|- miles from Sitenga, is a small, round islet, moderately elevated, and covered with large trees. Close around it are 5i to 8 fathoms, increasing to 10 and 14 fathoms at a short distance to the westward. PULO TEMADJOE, lying about 2| miles westward of Tanjong Samoedin, is about 2i miles long, North and South, and 1^ mile broad. It is consider- ably elevated, of an irregular shape, forming a point at its South end, and having its greatest breadth on its N.W. side, where are two small bays, with white sandy beaches ; there is also a rather deep bay on its West side. The soundings decrease gradually towards Temadjoe, from 14 and 12 fa- thoms to 7 and 6, and close to it are 4 and 3 fathoms, except on its East side, where a reef appears to project about a quarter of a mile. The channel between the island and the main is quite clear, with depths of 7 or 8 fathoms, decreasing regularly towards the main, and there is good anchorage any- where under the lee of the island Pulo Baroe, in lat. 0° 35J' N., long. 108° 45i' E., is only about a third of a mile in extent. The soundings are very irregular, 18 to 5 fathoms, close to it, and close to its North end is a patch of H fathom. A. shoal patch , of only 2f fathoms water, and 12 to 16 fathoms around it, lies half a mile N.N.W. from Pulo Baroe. Pulo Samassu, three-quarters of a mile long N. by W. and S. by E., and a quarter of a mile broad, lies off Tanjong Sangoa, half a mile distant from the coast, but some distance inside the S-fathoms edge of the bank extend- from the shore. The soundings decrease rather suddenly towards this island, which should not be neared under a depth of 8 or 6 fathoms. About N.W. J N., distant one-third of a mile from the North point of Sa- massu, is a small islet named Pulo Kran. Four-fathoms Patches. — X shoal patch, having this depth over it, and 8 to 11 fathoms around it, lies with the South point of Samassu bearing East, distant 3i miles ; and the West part of Pulo Kaboen, shut in behind the N.E. part of Pulo Penata Ketehil, bearing N. by W., westerly. There is another 4- fathoms patch at half a mile southward of Penata Ketehil. BOEEONG ISLANDS. 285 B0ER02f G ISLANDS are a group of five islands lying to the westward of Tanjong Batoe Blad and the coaft adjacent to it. Pulo Landean, the southernmost of the group, is a mere islet, barely a quarter of a mile in diameter, lying about three-quarters of a mile S. by E. from the South point of Lamokatan. Near to it are depths ot 4 fathoms, and 10 to 12 fathoms at a short distance westward of it. Pulo Lamokatan, the largest island of the group, is 4^ miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., but its greatest breadth is only a little over a mile. It is high, with several peaked hills upon it, the heights of which, however , are not known. The water is deep, 15 or 16 fathoms, close to its West side, and there appears to be a deep water channel between it and Pulo Landean. Shoal water extends about a quarter of a mile from the North part of the island. There is anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms abreast of two small bays on the East side of Lamokatan, but it will be necessary to approach the shore with caution, the soundings decreasing rather suddenly from 17 or 16 fathoms. Pulo Penata Besar, 2 miles long N. by W. and S. by E., and two-thirda of a mile broad, lies about 1 J mile eastward of Lamokatan, the South ex- tremes of both islands being in the same latitude. Close to the East and West sides of Penata Besar are from 4 to 8 fathoms water, except off its North point, where there are but If fathoms. In the channel between these islands the water is deep, 2'2 to 33 fathoms, but decreasing to 15 and 14 fathoms northward of the parallel of the North point of Penata Besar. Pulo Penata Ketchil, about half a mile in extent, lies a mile eastward of the middle part of Penata Besar. A point projects in a south-easterly direc- tion from the island, upon each side of which is a small bay. Close to the island are 8 to 13 fathoms, but, as before stated, there is a patch of 4 fathoms at half a mile to the southward, having 6 and 7 fathoms near it. A Shoal or bank, over which the least water appears to be 3^ fathoms, lies (its southern extreme of 4 fathoms) about one-third of a mile N.N.W. from the North point of Penata Ketchil, and from thence extends about N. ^ E. 1 J mile. Close to the West side of this bank are 7 to 16 fathoms, but on the East side, soundings of 5 fathoms extend nearly a mile from it, when the depths suddenly increase to 12 and 19 fathoms. It would seem necessary to exercise caution when crossing over or passing near to this bank, for the chart does not exhibit sufficient soundings to make it certain that the least water upon the bank has been obtained. Pulo Kaboen, the N.E. island of the Boerong Group, lies E.N.E. about 4 miles from the North end of Lamokatan, and W. by N. ^ N. nearly 3 miles from Tanjong Batoe Blad. It is a high island, about U mile long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and a mile broad. Close to its South end are 3J fathoms, and there are depths of 4 fathoms about three-quarters of a mile from it. A 286 WEST COAST OF BORNEO. patch of 4 fathoms lies about half a mile off its N.W. point, elsewhere the soundings close to the island are 6 to 8 fathoms. TANJONG BATOE BLAD, the westernmost extreme of Borneo, is in lat. 0° 47' 35" N., long. 108° 50' 10" E. It is a prominent point from the land approaching it from the southward in a N.N.W. direction, and then falling from it in a north-easterly direction, and also from a range of hills behind it, running 12 or 13 miles to the eastward. The point itself appears, from the Dutch chart, to be low, with three hiUs immediately behind it ; some rocks lie off it, and the 3-fathoms line which marks their edge is nearly half a mile from the point. A shoal, of small extent, but over which there are but 2f fathoms water, lies N.W. ^N. 1^ mile from Batoe Blad Point, and West-southerly from the North point of Kaboen Island. Around the shoal there appears to be 11 fathoms water, and 8 or 9 fathoms between it and the shore bank ; between the shoal and Kaboen are 12 and 15 fathoms. Directions. — Vessels will frequently find it convenient to keep pretty close to the coast of Borneo, just described, especially when working to windward against the N.E. monsoon, for favourable tides will be found near the shore when a strong current is running to the southward some distance from it. Between the Massa Tiega Islets and Mampawa Point, a vessel may stand towards the coast, guided by the lead, into 7 or even 6 fathoms ; farther out, in a line between the Greig Shoal and Datoe Island, the depths are 18 or 20 fathoms. Small vessels may pass in safety between Temadjoe Island and the main, the channel being a mile wide, with depths in it of 7 and 8 fathoms. Large vessels, however, had better pass outside that island. Between Te- madjoe and Samassu, vessels of any size may stand towards the coast into 7 or 6 fathoms, and pass on either side of Baroe Island and the shoal near it as convenient. The Boerong Islands may be boldly approached from the westward, and large vessels had better pass outside them ; but small vessels may often with great advantage pass inside those islands, taking care to avoid the 3j-fathom shoal to the northward of Penata Ketchil, and the 2J- fathom patch about IJ niile N.W. of Batoe Blad Point. The Coast from Tanjong Batoe Blad takes a north-easterly direction for about 5 miles to Tanjong Sedow Malang, where it falls back East for 2 or 3 miles, and then curving round and forming a long bay, runs in a N.N.W. direction towards Tanjong Biela, the southern point of entrance to the Sam- bas River. Several rivers disembogue upon this part of the coast, the most important of which are the Singkmvan, about 5 miles from Sedow Malang Point, and the Slakouw, about two-thirds of the distance between Sedow Malang and Biela Point. The town of Singkawan, situated some miles up the Sing- kawan, is the principal military station of the Dutch upon this coast, and SAMBANG OE SAMBAS RIVER. 287 there are usually about 500 soldiers, Europeans and natives, quartered there. SKOAL PATCH. — The soundings along this part of the coast appear to decrease regularly towards the shore, except at one spot which lies S.S.W. I "W. from Biela Point, and nearly "West, distant .5 miles from the entrance of the Slakouw River ; upon this spot, which is just inside the edge of the 5-fathom line, there are only 2^ fathoms water. SAMBANG or SAMBAS RIVER has a wide entrance, in lat. 1° 11' N., long. lOS'^ 58' E., with some small islets close to the North point, and two hills on the other. The town is about 30 miles up the river on the South branch, which has many windings near the town. The principal branch is wide, running directly eastward, having many lateral branches. The sea flowing into the river makes ihe water brackish 13 or 14 miles up, so that ships in want of water are obliged to get it from a great distance. The anchorage in the road is with the mouth of the river bearing East or E. ^ N., in any convenient depth, from 15 to 5 fathoms, the decrease being regular over a soft bottom to 4 fathoms about 1^ or 2 miles off shore ; the soundings are regular along this part of the coast. Sambas is one of the places on the Borneo coast formerly visited by ships employed in the eastern trade from Bengal ; it was fortified by a piratical Rajah, who was driven to the interior by a British force sent from Bataviain 1812. Since the late treaty with the Netherlands Grovernment, the Dutch have claimed as their right most of the trading ports along this coast, where they have placed commercial residents and some troops. The Coast from the Sambas River trends in a gradual curve to Tanjong Pajang, or Somoet, which bears from Tanjong Biela N.N.E., northerly, 25 miles. The soundings off it decrease gradually towards the shore from 17 or 16 to 8 and 4 fathoms; but shoal water extends more than 1^ mile from Tanjong Pajang. Prom Tanjong Pajang the coast falls back 2 or 3 miles to the eastward, and then runs north-eastward 13 or 14 miles to the entrance of the Palo River, from the North point of which it forms a small bay, curving to the northward to Tanjong Api. The coast between Pajang and Api Points has been but very imperfectly surveyed, and must be approached with great caution, for shoal banks appear to extend 6 or 7 miles from it. TANJONG API, the noi'th-western extreme of Borneo, is described here- after. Hector Bank. — Dangerous patches extend many miles to the southward of Sambar Point, the South evtreme of the coast just described, the most southern of which is the Hector Bank, which is a 3^-fathom patch of doubtful position, but placed on the chart in lat. 3° 46' S., long. 110° 8' E. Around it are from 6 to 10 fathoms. 288 WEST COAST OF BORNEO. Fox Shoal is shown on the chart as two rocks awash N.W. by W. J W. and S.E. by E. ^ E. of each other, about 1^ mile apart, with a large patch with only 2 fathoms water over it, to the north-eastward of them, and 9 to 1 9 fathoms close-to on their West and South sides. The westernmost rock is in lat. 3° 32' S., long. 110° 7f E. Aruba Shoal, taken from the Dutch chart, is said to lie 3 or 4 miles N.E. by E. from the Fox Shoal, and to have 3 fathoms water over it. Clemencia Reef, in lat. 3° 24' S., long. 110° 7j E., is nearly dry; around it are 7 to 1 7 fathoms. From the Clemencia Reef, shoals appear to extend all the way to Mankap Island, and vessels should be very cautious not to get too near them. Between Fox Shoal and Hector Bank there is a good channel by keeping between lat. 3° 36' and 3° 42' S. ; but when the vessel's position is not correctly known, it is advisable to pass to the southward of the Hector Bank. Although the bottom near and among these shoals is generally a mixture of red and green clay, with mud, yet the soundings are very irregular, with overfalls, making it prudent not to come under 15 or 16 fathoms towards them. Ben Briel Shoal, reported by the steam-vessel Den Briel to have been seen above water, and placed on the charts in lat. 3° 23' S., long. 109° 27' 30" E., was thoroughly and unsuccessfully searched for by H.M.S. Nassauin 1876, — depths of 18 to 22 fathoms, mud, having been obtained. A doubtful Rock {Euphrosine) is marked on the chart in lat. 3° 25|' S., long. 109° 41' E., or S.S.W. 16 miles from Oliviera Reef. It was reported in 1869 by the Master of the English barque Euphrosiney who says it is a mile in diameter. Oliviera Reef, from a Dutch chart of 1842, lies W. by S., 24^ miles from, Mankap Island, or in lat. 3° 10' S., long. 109° 47^' E. H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876, passed 1^ mile East, and I J mile North of the position assigned, with- out observing any indication of shoal water; depths of 16 to 19 fathoms, sand, were obtained. PULO MANKAP or MANCO, in lat. 3° 5' S., long. 110° 13' E., and dis- tant about 8 miles S.W. of Sambar Point, is a small low island, which may be seen 15 miles from the deck of a large ship. Near to it, to the N.N.E., are three other small isles, which appeared to Capt. Ross, when examining the surrounding shoal, as three bush islets or rocks. It was noticed in the last page that there is shoal water to the southward of Mankap Island, as far as the Clemencia Reef ; shoal water also extends far to the westward of it, and vessels must be cautious in approaching the island from both those directions. Captain Ross, in the Discovery, with the island bearing East, distant 10 miles, get suddenly into 4 and 3f fathoms, hard sand, on the shoal bank that encircles the island ; when it bore N.E. about 7 miles, the sound- GELAM AND KUMPAL ISLANDS. 289 ings were 3J fathoms, fine sand; and when bearing N.N.E. ^ E. 10 or 12 miles, seen from the deck, the vessel struck on the ground. Horsburgh says, Mankap Island ought not to be brought to the northward of N.E. by N. while in sight from the mast-head, for if it bear N.N.E. i E., about 18 miles distant, a vessel will suddenly get into shoal water on some of the spits that stretch far to the southward, having from 10 to 17 fathoms, soft bottom, near them. Gelam or Laag Island (Low Island), is the largest of a group of islands lying north-west 9 or 10 miles from Sambar Point. The whole are en- compassed with reefs, and the shoal bank, which extends 10 or 11 miles westward of Mankap Island, also extends 5 or 6 miles westward of the Laag group. KUMPAL or RENDEZVOUS ISLAND.— The West point of this island, by Capt. Eoss, is in lat. 2^ 44^' S., long. 110° 2^' E., but Sir Edward Belcher, who visited it in H.M.S. Suljihur, October, 1840, places a ledge of rocks on the West point in long. 110° 7' 39" E., or 6° 16' 21" East of Singapore, and 9° 16' 24" West of Macassar. The Sulphur took up a safe berth within 1 mile of the West point of the island ; and her tender, the Starling, occupied a position within one-eighth of a mile from the shore, but had rocky bottom. A plan was made of the anchorage, and the results of the examination proved it to be much safer and more convenient than the chart or sailing directions led to expect, ad- mirably adapted to replenish fuel or correct ohrocometers, and with this object in view some pains were taken to connect it with the meridian of Singapore. The rocky portion of the island is composed of a mixture of contorted slaty and sandstone schist, traversed by veins of quartz, exhibiticg slaggy indications at the point of contact, apparently ferruginous, but on examination did not affect a very delicate needle. Wood is abundant, but the search for water was unsuccessful. This island was, in former times, the rendezvous for the China convoys in case of separation. The following is from Horsburgh : — The island ex- tends about 12 miles to the north-eastward, and a chain of small islands and reefs nearly joins it to the main ; this chain stretches also southward along the coast to Pulo Mankap, and is fronted with shoal water. About 6 miles S. by W. from the West point of the island is a bank with 3 or 3J fathoms, which makes it proper in leaving the anchorage at the N.W. part of the island to haul off to the south-westward, to give a berth to this bank. In July land and sea breezes prevailed, the former at East and E.S.E., veering to S.S.E. in a breeze The island shows in hummocks, but cannot be seen above 16 or 17 miles, and the West point forms in a bluff, when viewed from the S.W. or southward. The William Pitt, in July, anchored in 4| fathoms, about 4 miles off 1. A. 2 p 290 CARIMATA STEAIT. shore, with the West point of Pulo Kumpal S. i W., its North point E. by N. i N., a small isle off the latter part E. by N. | N., another isle E.N.E., a third small isle with trees on it North, just visible from the poop, and the North extreme of Borneo N.N.E. The first two isles are united by a coral reef, which extends 2 miles N.N.W. from the second island, having near its extremity a large rock 20 feet above water ; from this rock, in a N.E. direction, there is another island about 4 miles long, surrounded by coral reefs. Although coral reefs, with sharp-pointed rocks visible at low water, pro- ject from 1 to 3 miles from most parts of Pulo Kumpal, yet the western side appeared tolerably clear, with a sandy beach. From the West point of the island the land forms an elbow, by which there is shelter from all winds from the eastward, with smooth water. Water. — Sir Edward Belcher did not find any water on the island, but Horsburgh states that the crew of the William Pitt dug wells above high water mark on the sandy beach on the West side of the island, from which very good water was obtained. The tides were found to be more regular here than at any other part of the West coast of Borneo ; the rise and fall was 8 or 9 ft. Rocks awash. — In a Dutch chart by J. G. Tindal, 1842, some rocks awash are placed in lat. 2° 20^' S., about S.W. by W., 12 miles from Mount Minto. Gilbert Rocks and Elliot Sand.— In lat. 2° 14' to 2° 16' S., and 4 or 5 miles off Mount Minto Point, lie the Gilbert Rocks, or Toekan Mengkoedoe, with Mount Minto bearing about E. | N., and High Peak about E. by S. i S. A mile or two S.E. of Gilbert Rocks is a dry bank, named Elliot Sand. BIRDS NEST ISLANDS (Vogelnest Islands), are a group of small islands 3 or 4 miles in extent, and surrounded by a reef. The northernmost island, named Boorong, is in lat. 1° 43' S., long. 109° 15^' E. Amur Shoal, of 9 ft., discovered in 1875, is about half a mile in diameter, and lies 3 miles W.N.W. from Boorong Island. Black Rock (Zwarte Rots) is 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of the Birds Nest group. There is a rock under water about half a mile eastward of it, a rock awash nearly a mile to the southward, and another awash the same distance to the south-westward. South Island {Erawang), about a mile in extent, lies about 4^ miles N.E. from the Birds Nest Islands. A smaller island lies close to its N.W. side, and a rock off its S.E. side. Ginting, Mintano, Grisse, and Bisi, are four small islands, the most eastern of which, Ginting, is in lat. 1° 41' S., long. 109° 4 J' E. Bisi is about Zh miles from Carimata, to which it appears to be almost connected by a projecting reef. Bold and Tongue Islands form a group of OSTERLY CHANNEL-PAPAN ISLANDS. 291 four small islands. Bold, the most southern and western island of the group, bears North 3 miles from Ginting. The eastern Tongue Island is very small. The North Tongue Island has a reef projecting from it nearly 2 miles in a N.N.W. direction. The middle Tongue is about twice the size of the other two islands. A reef, about a mile in extent, lies 2 miles north-westward of Bold Island. P3rramid, or Boan Island, is about 1^ mile in extent, and its centre is in about lat. 1° 29^' S., long. 108° 59' E. Nihong and Eelinet are much smaller islands, lying about a mile northward of Pyramid. The OSTERLY CHANNEL, through which the ship of that name passed, lies westward of the Birds Nest Islands, Black Eock, Bold Island, and the reef north-westward of it, Pyramid, Nibong, and Helinet Islands ; and eastward of Ginting, the islands and reefs N.E. of Bisi, and the East coast of Carimata. The narrowest part is between Bold Island and the reefs ex- tending eastward of Bisi, where it is but \h mile broad, with depths of 5 or 6 fathoms ; westward of Black Rock the depths are 10 to 12 fathoms ; and from 10 to 13 fathoms between Carimata and Pyramid Island. The Oosterhj found this route very intricate, and several times had rocky bottom and very shoal water. PAP AN ISLANDS form two small groups, between which is the Papan Channel, about a mile wide, with 9 to 12 fathoms water. Maleidong, in lat. 1° 31' S., long. 109° 22' E., is the largest of the islands, and with two islets near its North side form the eastern group. The western group is said to consist of (three or) four islands, nearly of the same size, the southernmost bearing about South from the one next it ; the remaining three are in line when bearing about N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. Spirit of the North Shoal. — The ship Spirit of the North, Charles Wise, commander, September 2l8t, 1861, was reported to have struck on a shoal lying 2 to 2^ miles N.W. of the middle island of the western Papan group ; the shoalest water obtained was 12 ft. There was no ripple on it, but small round white patches were indistinctly seen under the vessel's bottom. Passage Islands (G^oeroM^) are two small islands lying close together, 10 miles N.W. by W. i W. from the western group of the Papan Islands. A roch is marked on the chart in lat. T 30' S., long. 109° bh' E., 4 miles S.W. of the Western Goerong Island, but its position is doubtful. Tallack Shoal.— On the 2nd of March, 1871, the British barque Mari/ Tatham, struck on a shoal in lat. 1° 21' S., and long. 109° 6' E. On exami- nation of the danger 20 ft. was the least water found, with 20 fathoms close to on all sides. The following bearings were observed from the shoal : — Soeka, the southern of the Melapies group of islands, N.AV. J N., distant about 2 miles ; Pyramid Island, S.W. f S. ; and Zattak Point, half open of the North side of Meledan or Button Island. MELAPIES ISLANDS comprise a group about 5 miles in extent, lying to 292 CAEIMATA STEAIT. the S.W. of the high island of Panambungan. Three islands of the group are tolerably large and high, with several contiguous islets, the north-eastern of which, Double Island, lies about 2^ miles from the S.W. extreme of Panambungan. Rodgers Reef. — In 1857 Mr. Eodgers, master of an English ship, dis- covered a shoal with probably less than 4 fathoms water on it, the East point of Carimata Island bearing S. J W., and the Leema Islands W. by N. AN. Button Island (Meledan) lies about 9 miles eastward of the Melapies group, and about 6^ miles E. by S. i 8. from the S.W. point of Panam- bungan. PULO PANAMBXTNGAN is high, 5 miles in extent N.E. and S. W., and its western point is in lat. 1° 12' S., long. 109° 10' E. There are four small islets off its eastern extreme, the outermost of which is 4 miles N. by W. 3 W. from Button Island ; there is also a small islet, named Sirie, lying off its south-western extreme. There is good anchorage off the north-western side of Panambungan, in 6i or 6 fathoms, with shelter from southerly winds. Fresh-water Bay, at this part of the island, has two runs of good water, the-westernmost of which is the largest, wliere the water is obtained behind a large black rock on the beach, which consists of fine sand. All the watering places are fronted by fine sandy beaches, and easily discerned. There are spars fit for topmasts on the island, but the trees seem to be too heavy. Baroe and Ananas Islands are the largest and outermost of a group of small islands lying off the north-western extreme of Mayang Island^. Masien Tiega are three small islands, the outer or westernmost of which is in lat. 0° 55' S., long. 109° 12' E. The chart shows a reef extending from them to the S.W. Greig Channel is the passage between Panambungan and Melapies Islands, and the route by it and among the islands to the south-eastward, although narrow in some parts, has moderate depths with generally good anchorage, and seems preferable to the route westward of Carimata and Soruetou, for ships that have to work along the coast against the monsoon, whether bound northward or southward. Directions. — Being to the northward of the dangers off Minto Point (page 290), the Borneo coast may be approached to 8 or 9 fathoms of water, and to 7 or 6 fathoms when nearing the Papan Islands. The Birds Nest Islands should not be approached under 1 fathoms, or nearer than 2 miles. A vessel may pass on either side of the two groups of the Papan Islands, observing that the water quickly shoals to 5 fathoms eastward, or inshore of them. If passing westward of them, remember the Spirit of the North Shoal (p. 291). Between South Island and the Papan Islands the depths are 10 to 12 fathoms, decreasing pretty regularly towards the Borneo coast ; DIRECTIONS. 293 and between the Papan and Passage Islands there are 7 to 12 fathoms. Northward of the Papan Island the soundings appear to shoal rather sud- denly from 8 to 5 fathoms, but gradually under that depth. The Greig channel appears to be bold towards either shore, with depths from 14 to 20 fathoms in the fairway. When northward of Panambungan, the Borneo coast may be approached to 9 or 8 fathoms at discretion, but under 8 fathoms the soundings seem to decrease rather quickly. A vessel may stand off to 15 fathoms near the Leema Islands, and to 17 or 20 fathoms when to the northward of them, but remember the Wellesley, Crescent, and Greig Shoals. The Inner Channel, between the East end of Panambungan and the S.W. extreme of Majang Island, may be used by small vessels, as it has regular soundings of 3 or 5 fathoms, soft bottom. Directions through Carimata Strait from the Southward. Approaching Cari- mata Strait from the southward, a vessel will have to depend principally upon the correctness of her reckoning, for the soundings are so irregular, that they will afford but very imperfect guidance, and the land is too distant to be of service in determining her position. If to the westward of about long. 108° to 108° 20V a good lookout should be kept to get sight of Shoe Island (page 272), which, if seen, will determine her position, and enable her to steer to pass into the strait, either by the main route eastward of the Discovery, Lavender, and Cirencester Shoals, or by the route westward of those dangers, between them and the Osterly Shoals. Should the vessel be to the eastward of 109° 30', and approaching the parallel of 4° S., the greatest care must be observed to keep to the westward of the dangers which extend about 42 miles S. by W. from Mankap Island ; and the navigator must be guided by circumstances as to whether he shall proceed eastward or westward of Doubtful Rock and Oliviera Reef. It is often advantageous, on account of the tide, to pass inside those dangers, but it is much better, if possible, to keep the main channel. Having passed Pulo Kumpal (or Rendezvous Island"), a course may be shaped to pass on either side of the Ontario Reef. Carimata, Sorue<^ou, and the adjacent islands will afford good objects for determining the vessel's position if she pass northward of the reef, and the Montaran Islands will answer a similar purpose, if she pass southward. Vessels passing through Carimata Strait and bound to Singapore during the months of December, January, and February, generally keep near the coast of Borneo (where the tides are said to be regular) to avoid the strong southerly current ; and pass into the China Sea through Greig Channel. From the Northward. — Coming from the north-westward towards Carimata Strait, if intending to pass outside or southward of Ontario Reef, having brought Soruetou to bear N.E., distant 25 miles, steer S.E. by E., to give a berth to the supposed rock westward of the Outario Roof. To keep to the 294 CAEIMATA STRAIT. westward of this supposed rock, it would appear to be necessary to sink the West end of Soruetou from the deck of a large ship before it bears North of N.E. by N. Keep the West end of Soruetou to the eastward of N. by E., until past Ontario Reef, or 25 miles to the southward of Soruetou, or sink the West end of the island from the deck of a large ship, bearing about N. by E. ; continuing the S.E. by E. course the Montaran Islands will be Been, if the weather is favourable ; pass to the eastward of them at 15 or 16 miles distance. From this position a S.S.E. course will lead in the fair track, between the Cirencester and Discovery Shoals on the West side of the channel, and the Oliviera Reef and Doubtful Rock on the East side. If not certain of the longitude, the best guide is to borrow towards the coast of Borneo, to get a sight of the land, if circumstances admit, and taking a de- parture from Rendezvous Island, steer to the southward between Oliviera Reef and the Mankap Shoals. The best track for ships bound to the southward, particularly in cloudy weather, is to pass northward of Ontario Reef, by keeping within 10 or 12 miles of Soruetou, until its West extreme bears N. ^ W. ; then observing to keep it to the West of N. § W., in steering to the S.S.E., until the reef is passed. Proceeding to the southward, borrow towards the eastern side of the strait, where the soundings will generally be from 17 to 14 fathoms, within from 30 to 20 miles of the coast of Borneo, deepening in some places as the shoals are approached on the West side of the strait, but not always aflPording a certain guide. To the southward of Rendezvous Island the depths will increase from 19 to 21 fathoms irregular soundings, when about 30 or 33 rpiles to the south-westward of Pulo Mankap, , which is as near as any large ship should approach the shoals that extend far out from it in this direction. Sailing vessels making the passage from Singapore to the ports in Java during the S.E. monsoon, as a rule, sight Soruetou Island, pass eastward of Discovery East Bank, and thence round Hector Bank. CHAPTER YIII. BANKA TO SINGAPORE. The routes between Singapore and the western straits, Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata, leading from the Java Sea, pass either eastward of, or within the line of islands and reefs which run generally in a parallel direction to the coast of Sumatra. This S.W. portion of the China Sea, between Borneo and Sumatra, has not been systematically surveyed ; but as it has been the great maritime highway for so many years, it is believed that all its dangers are ascertained, and tolerably well defined. A portion near the coast of Borneo was sur- veyed by Lieutenant Blommendal, of the Dutch Eoyal Navy ; other parts, including the Tambelan Islands, were surveyed by Lieutenant J. W. Eeed, E.N., in H.M.S. Rifleman, in 1862, &c. Other portions are by Mr. Stanton, E.N. Ehio. Strait, partially surveyed by the Dutch, was afterwards, in the years 1865 — 1868, examined by Lieut. J. W. Eeed, in H.M.S. Rifleman ; the Linga Islands, also, by the Dutch, by A. C. Edeling, 1863, and after- wards by Lieut. Eeed. Lieutenant Melvill Van Carnbee, also executed some portions. From these and many other authorities tha following direc- tions, as given in the China Sea Pilot, have been derived. This chapter will include descriptions of the space and the islands between Borneo and Sumatra, including the passages between the groups which lead to Singapore Strait. 1.— DETACHED ISLANDS AND EOCKS. TOEJOE, or Seven Islands, lie in two groups, between the parallels 1° 16' and 1° S., and the meridians 105= 13 J' and 105° 2Qh' E. They are high and woody, and visible 25 or 26 miles, and surrounded by rocks and reefs. They are uninhabited, but occasionally visited by proas. Pulo Joe, the southernmost of the islands, is very small, but rises to a height of 270 ft. ; a short distance N.E. of it is a sunken rock. Pulo Lalang is an islet about a mile N. by E. from Pulo Joe ; and a mile W.S.W. 296 BANKA TO SINGAPORE. from it is another islet surrounded by a reef. Pulo Sato, the most western of the islands, is small, 105 ft. high, and bears from Pulo Joe about N.W. by N., distant 5 miles. Pulo Meranti, also a small island surrounded by a reef, is 117 ft. high, and lies between Lalang and Sato. Pulo Tjehia, the largest island of the southern group, is about a mile in extent, 373 ft. high, and surrounded by a reef which projects a little more than a mile from its S.E. extreme. Pulo Katjangang, the north-easternmost and largest of the Seven Islands, is 4 miles long N.W. ^ W. and S.E. ^ E., but only half a mile broad, and rises to several peaks, the highest of which is 526 ft. above the level of the sea. It is surrounded by a reef, within the limits of which are some rocks above water, especially off its S.E. end. There are some wells on its West side. About 2^ miles N.W. by W. J W. from its N.W. extreme, is Pulo Tukonkemhong , a small islet, 120 ft. high, and surrounded by a reef. About 1^ mile W.N.W. from Tukonkemhong are the N. W. Rocks, the middle one of which is above water. DOCAN ISLAND, in lat. 0' 58' S., long. 105° 39' E., is about three- quarters of a mile in extent, surrounded by a reef, and a small islet with some rocks project nearly a mile from its north-eastern extreme. Two reefs lie off the South point of Docan, the outer one of which, lying S.S.E. distant 2 miles from the point, was discovered in January, 1823, by the ship Mary striking on it. There are 2 fathoms water over each of these dangers, and around them 14 to 18 fathoms. The channel between the Toejoe Islands and Pulo Docan is 21 miles wide, and has regular soundings of 14 to 16 fathoms. TOTY ISLAND, or Pulo Laut, in lat. 0° 55' S., long. 105° 47f' E., is small, and surrounded by a reef, which pn the East side projects half a mile. The passage between Toty and Docan is 6 miles wide, and appears to be free from danger. When passing between Banka and the Toejoe Islands, the latter should not be approached to less than 10 fathoms water, nor Banka nearer than 4 miles ; for its dangers are all 2 or 3 miles in the offing, and nearly awash. Near the Hyu and Doyang Eocks the bottom is rocky, and the depths irregular. Vessels keeping to the southward of Toty and Docan Islands, in order to cross over to Borneo, must take care to avoid the Mary Eock, lying S.S.E. 2 miles from Docan Island, and also the Vega and other shoals. From October to March, during the N.W. monsoon, the currents run with force to the S.E., and during the other months to the N.W. It has, how- ever, occurred that vessels going to Banka in June and July have experienced strong southerly currents. Along the North shore of Banka, in regular weather, there are generally two ebbs and two floods in the 24 hours. PULO TAYA, the centre of which is in lat. 0° 44' S., long. 104° 54' E., ILCHESTER— PULO SINKEP, PULO PUNOEBO. 297 rises to a double peak 630 ft. above the sea. Both peaks, when in line on a N. by E. and S. by W. bearing, show as a single triangular peak. The whole shore of the island is steep, and may be approached to a distance of 3 cables. The island is uninhabited, of granite formation, and covered with wood. There is a spring of excellent icater on the western side of Taya, and a boat at high tide can approach it to 40 ft., but at low tide rocks extend nearly a cable's length from the sand. The knowledge of this is important to the mariner, as no similar facility for watering occurs between Banka and Rhio Strait. In the fine season, boats come here from Linga seeking turtle. Castor Bank, lying to the north-eastward of Pulo Taya, is a long ridge of coral and sand, nearly a mile wide, and 13 miles long in a N.N.E. direction. The general depths on it are 10 to 6 fathoms, but on one part, N.E. ^ N. 10 miles from Pulo Taya, there is a ridge about a mile in extent, and its eastern side steep-to, carrying only 5 fathoms. The bank is famous for a red species of fish, called from their colour Ikan Merah.f ILCHESTEH, or Alang Kalem Bank, on which the ship Ilchester struck, ■was examined by Capt. D. Eoss, I.N., who found it to be in lat. 0° 26^' S., long. 104° 58' E., to extend N. by E. and S. by W. about 2^ miles, and IJ mile in breadth, and to have but 1 fathom water on its shoalest parts. Pulo Taya bore from the shoal S. J W. ; Maralie Islet, off the East point of Linga, N. by E. ; the East point of Linga, N. ^ E., distant 8 or 9 miles. The depth of water decreases nearly all around from 18, 16, or 15 fathoms, suddenly to 6 and 3 fathoms, on the edge of the shoal. When passing this danger, Maralie Islet must not be brought to the east- ward of North, and Pulo Taya should be kept to the westward of S. by W. PULO SINKEP, PULO PUNOEBO, and two islands to the westward, ap- pear from a distance like one large island, being separated only by narrow channels. They lie off the south-western part of Linga, and, together with some adjoining islets and shoal spots, cover a space from 20 to 24 miles. Sinkep, the largest island of the group, is of very irregular shape, and of considerable elevation, having on its eastern side a range of hills, with a peak 1,440 ft. high near the centre of the range. It is only the East and N.E. coasts of Sinkep and the dangers off it which will be noticed here : the other * In old charts a shallow spot of 2| fathoms, hard bottom, was shown at 22 or 23 miles southward from Taj-a Island, and W. \ N. from Toejoe Island, said to have been dis- covered by the English vessel Thomas Hanisou, Capt. E. Smith, but it could not be found by Mr. Stanton, in the Saracen. t Couman Bank, said to lie 65 miles JT.E. by N. of the Castor, was searched for by the Saracen in vain. It is expunged from the charts. I. A. 2 Q 298 BANK A TO SINGAPORE. portions of the group belong to tlie Inner Route, by Varella and Durian Straits, and are described hereafter. Dangers.— A.i 3f miles E. by S. J S. from the S.E. point of Sinkep is the South end of a shoal, which from thence extends N.N.E. for 5 miles, but is only about 1^ mile broad. At the South end of the shoal is a patch of 2\ fathoms, and another of 2| fathoms at the North end ; between these patches are depths of 4J and 5 fathoms. Tanjong Boekoe (the South point of Sinkep), bearing West, leads a mile southward of this danger ; and the eastern point of the island bearing North leads about the same distance eastward. Rocks and shoal water extend nearly a mile from the East point of Sinkep, and the Saracen's soundings show a bank projecting 5 miles in a north- easterly direction from it, on the extremity of which there are but 4 fathoms water. As no soundings have been taken near the N.E. coast of Sinkep, it should be approached with caution. There are some rocks awash oflf the East sides of the small islets lying between the N.E. point of Sinkep and Ponoebo. LINGA ISLAND, lying about midway between Banka and Singapore Straits, is about 35 or 36 miles in extent, in a W.N. W. and E.S.E. direction. Upon its southern part is a remarkable mountain, the peak of which, rising to an elevation of 3,920 ft., is split in two, forming a sort of double peak, " rising like spires from the summit of the mountain," but which is more generally thought to resemble asses' ears, visible many miles in all directions. Viewed from the sea, this mountain presents a most beautiful and imposing appearance, which is sure to arrest the attention even of the most careless observer. The north-eastern coast of the island is formed of numerous hillocks, from 200 to 300 ft. high, which give it a uniform appearance ; the contour of the coast line is, however, very imperfectly known. The East extreme of Linga, called by the natives Tanjong Eung, from its prominent position and pyramidal peak, 750 ft. high, is very conspicuous, and visible in clear weather 30 miles off. Tavjong Roe may be known by a saddle hill, 630 ft. high, near it. The southern coast of Linga, between these points and between Tanjong Roe and the town of Linga, being all low land, both points make like islands when above 13 miles distant. Pulo Maralie is an islet lying three-quarters of a mile off shore, in a S.E. by E. direction from the hill on Tanjong Eung. Pulo Raha, a larger islet, lying about half a mile off shore in a South direction from the same hill, is surrounded by a reef which off its S.W. point extends a mile. LINGA ROAD and TOWN.— The bay forming Linga Road is exposed to southerly and easterly winds, and large ships are obliged to lie far out on account of shoal water extending from the mouth of the river around Pulo Colombo and its adjoining islets. Pulo Colombo, the largest of these islets, lies S. by E. I E. nearly 2 miles from the^ entrance of the river. Anto and LTNGA ROAD AND TOWN. 299 Ballang Islets are both small, the former lying about a mile S.E., and the latter the same distance E. by S. from Colombo. W. by S. 2^ miles from Colombo is another small islet named Badas, which is almost connected by reefs to Pulo Mapar, a larger islet about a mile to the northward, with a grove of cocoa-nut trees on it ; the village here contains about 300 Malays and Chinese, chiefly fishermen. H.M.S. Saracen anchored in Linga Road in 4 fathoms, mud, Pulo Badas bearing N.N.E. half a mile; Sinkep Peak, 1,440 ft. high, S.S.W. ; and Ponoebo Peak, 935 ft. high, W. ^ S. Horsburgh says that the safest anchor- age for strangers is 3 or 4 miles off shore, with Pulo Taya S.S.E. ^ E., and the South point of Linga East, southerly. Linga Peak just to the east- ward of Colombo, N.W. ^ W. or N.W. f W., with Ponoebo Peak bearing about W. \ S., and the peak of Sinkep S.W. by W., appear also to be good anchorage marks. The Town of Linga, called by the natives Lyak, is prettily situated on the banks, and nearly a mile within the entrance of the fresh water river. The high, rugged, fantastic peak of Linga in the background, together with the rakish appearance of the country prahus, all moored to cocoa-nut trees and areca palms, their rich foliage almost obscuring the houses, give to the whole a picturesque appearance. The town is said to contain (in 1860) about 4,000 Malays, and 1,500 Chinese. The former prefer their usual style of houses constructed on poles, but some of the Chinese have substantial buildings of stone. The produce is rattans, pepper, and gambler, which is carried to Singapore and Rhio by country vessels and prahus. Gold is found in small quantities after heavy rains. Tin has not yet been found, but the neighbouring island of Sinkep produces some. There are no Europeans on the island. The Sultan is nominally under Dutch protection, and the Resident of Rhio pays him an annual visit. Water. — The Saracen obtained good water, but with difiiculty, from a well in the interior of Mapar Island. In Linga Road it is high water, full and change, at 7 p.m., and the rise is 7 ft. The flood runs at the rate of 2 knots to the westward. Directions. — A vessel proceeding toward Linga Road from Banka Strait, should pass westward of Pulo Taya, and steer for the high land to the eastward of Linga Peak, giving the eastern coast of Sinkep a berth of at least 5 or 6 miles. In working, by not bringing the East point of Sinkep to the eastward of North, will avoid the shoal off the East side of that island ; and by not bringing the S.E. point of the island to the southward of S.W. until Linga Peak bears N.N.W. ^ W., will avoid the shoal bank which ex- tends 5 miles in a north-easterly direction from the East point of Sinkep. When standing towards the South coast of Linga, care must be taken to avoid the Dc Ugh Rock, with 16 ft. water over it, which lies with the South 300 BANKA TO SINGAPORE. extreme of Pulo Singsa bearing E. | N., distant 4 miles ; Linga Peak, N.W. by W. ^ W. ; Sinkep Peak, W. by S. J S. ; and the nearest points of Linga bearing respectively N.E. by N., northerly, distant 2 miles, and N N.W., westerly, distant 2^ miles ; close to the rock are 12 or 14 fathoms. The right extreme of Pulo Kaka just open of the right extreme of Pulo Singsa, bearing about E.N.E., leads a mile to the S.E, of the De Has Rock, and Linga Peak N.W. by W. leads to the S.W. Bound to Linga Road from the north-eastward, round the East point of Linga Island at a moderate distance, and then steer to the westward for the anchorage. — {Mr. Stanton, R.N.) The NORTH EAST COAST of LINGA is formed of numerous hillocks, from 200 to 300 ft. high, which give it a uniform appearance ; but neither it nor the adjacent islets are safe to approach at night, being as yet but im- perfectly surveyed. The soundings obtained by the Saracen in this locality, were confined to those above a depth of 10 fathoms, as vessels can gain no advantage by keeping close in shore. EAST DOMINO, or Selentang, is an islet lying about 8 miles northward of Tanjong Eung, the East point of Linga. Horsburgh says that this islet is 80 ft. high, and that rocks awash project from it to the southward, to th6 distance of 2J miles ; but the Dutch chart only shows a reef extending about a mile North and South of the islet, and a smaller islet close to the west- ward of it ; a rock awash is placed about 2^ miles South of it. The sound- ings close to the eastward of the islet are 14 fathoms, increasing to 16 and 17 fathoms at the distance of 3 or 4 miles. DOMINO HILL, or Boediang Idand, is about 2 miles in extent, and a peaked hill near its centre bears W. by 8. J S., 4 miles from the East Domino. GREAT DOMINO, or Kongka Island, is larger than Domino Hill, from which it bears N.W. | N. 3^ miles. It is said to be moderately elevated, and the chart shows a peaked hill on its western side. Crocodile Rock, about 15 ft. above water, and visible 5 miles off, lies N.E. J N. 4 miles off a conspicuous conical hill on the N.E. part of Great Domino. Brisbane Rock. — The barque Brisbane, under the command of Captain Robert Hudleston, grounded on this danger in May, 1876. On examination the rock was found to extend a mile in a S.E. and N.W. direction, with depths of 2 to 2J fathoms, coarse gray sand. From it. Crocodile Rock bears S.E. by E. J E. 2^ miles, and the small island off the North end of Kongka, S.W. i W. The rock is steep-to, with depths of 6 and 7 fathoms around it. Reef — Captain Hudleston also found a very dangerous reef of coral and sand, awash at low water, with Crocodile Rock bearing E. by N., and Small Island at North end of Kongka Island, S.W. i W., by compass. The reef KINTAR ISLAND -FEEDERICK REEF. 301 lies in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, about three-quarters of a mile in leno;th, and one-third of a cable in breadth. KINTAR ISLAND — Thx-ee other islands, with one or two conti(?uous islets, extend from 4J to 8 miles in a north-westerly direction from the Great Domino. The large island next northward of Great Domino, named Kintar, has on its southern end a fine bluff, and when coming from the northward, before the contiguous islands to the southward are visible, it much resembles the hill on the East end of Linga. A rock lies N.W. by W. ^ W., distant 2 miles from Pulo Kapas, which is a small islet surrounded by a reef, and the north-westernmost of the group extending from Kintar. Fly Bank is a small patch of 2 fathoms, lying N.N.W. f W, lOJ miles from Crocodile Rock, with the high bluff of Kintar bearing South a little westerly, distant 7f miles, and Pulo Kapas W.S.W. 5A miles ; close to it are depths of 9 to 13 fathoms. Pollux Rock lies N.W. about 4 miles from Fly Bank, with the high blulf of Kintar bearing S. by E. ;^ E. 11 miles, and Pulo Kapas S.S.W. 5^ miles ; close to it are depths of 10 and 11 fathoms. RODONG PEAK. — North-westward of Linga Island are many small islands. The most conspicuous of theoa is Pulo Eodong, or Merodong, which has a high conical peak, 724 ft. above the sea, the only hill of this feature in the vicinity. This peak is one of the principal objects which will enable a stranger to make out the entrance to Rhio Strait. It may, however, occasionally be useful to vessels working to or from Singapore by the Outer Route. The Entrance to RMo Strait between these islands and Pulo Gin to the N.N.E. of them is 23 miles wide. The space between is free from danger. SS.E. 16 miles from Pulo Gin is the southern part of a bank carrying 7 and 9 fathoms water. It is 17 miles in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., with its eastern side steep-to, and at its northern and Pulo Ruig bears N.N.W. \ W., which bearing clears also the Geldria and Frederick Reefs. In the N.E. monsoon much rain and thick weather are experienced, and this bank is a good guide to clear these reefs, and will save anchoring in deep water. FREDERICK REEF, in lat. 0° 37' N., long. 105° 9' E., is awash at low water springs. It consists of two rocks about a cable's length 8part, near the middle of a coral bank 3 cables in length North and South, and nearly 2 cables in breadth, having 20 to 22 fathoms all around, except at the N.E. side, where irregular soundings from 10 to 13 fathoms extend half a mile from it. From the centre of the reef Pulo Ruig, or Ragged Island, bears N.W. f N. 22 miles, and Pulo Borean W.N.W. 2 If miles. In the vicinity of this reef in light winds the discolouration of the water is the only guide, and in fiesh breezes it is dilRcult to distinguish breakers from the swell. Breakers on the reef can only be distiniruishod when the 302 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE. tide is setting against the wind with a comparatively smooth sea. Off Bin- tang Island, at the change of the monsoon in April, the flood tide runs for 18 hours, and the ebb 6 hours. In June the tides are reversed, consequently a tide against the wind will only take place a few hours each day. As this most dangerous reef lies in the direct track of vessels, the utmost care is necessary to avoid it. A vessel will clear it to the eastward by not going into less than 25 fathoms, and to the westward by keeping Grin Peak (a conspicuous hill, 337 ft. high), Grunong Kwas (857 ft. high on Bintang), and Pulo Borean well in sight, until the latter bears W. by N. The high peak of Linga Island, S.S.W. J W., or Pulo Euig bearing from N.N.W. to N.W. by N., will also lead clear. Prom a close examination by Mr. Stanton, in H.M.S. Saracen, soundings having been taken in every direction to the extent of 7 miles eastward, and from 4 miles southward of the reef to the Greldria Bank, he was led to be- lieve that the other reefs which were said to exist near are identical with it, and that the Frederick Reef is the only danger in this vicinity. EAST COAST of BINTANG. — Numerous islands and dangers lie off the southern part of the East coast of Bintang, among which no vessel should venture. Vessels making passages between Banka and Singapore Straits should pass outside or to the eastward of the whole of these islands and dangers ; and it is, therefore, only necessary here to notice the outermost of them. The whole coast and the islands off it are, as a rule, fringed with coral. PULO GIN, or Oreat Island, about 4 or 5 miles in extent, lies about 3 miles south-eastward of the S.E. extreme of Bintang. Although appearing as but one island, it is really made up of three small islands separated from each other by narrow channels, which together form the largest Island off this part of Bintang. There are several hills on it from 200 to 300 ft. high, and one, named Gin Peak, rising about the centre of the south-eastern portion of the island, is 337 ft. high. Pulo Terobi, the most southern of a cluster of small islets lying to the eastward of Pulo Gin, is 112 ft. high, and bears E. by S. 2\ miles from the S.E. extreme of Gin. Pulo Borean, or Saddle Island, is one of the outer islands lying 3 or 4 miles to the eastward of Pulo Gin, inside the Geldria Banks, and bears from Pulo Terobi, N. by E. | E. 5 miles. Being saddle- shaped, it is conspicuous and easily recognised. Pulo Ruig, or Ragged Island, appropriately named from the irregular ap- pearance of the trees on its summit, is the outer and easternmost island off the East coast of Bintang. It is about the same size and height, 315 ft., as Pulo Borean, and is steep-to at 3 cables' lengths off. Geldria Bank is the outermost of a dangerous group of shoals lying 13 or 14 miles eastward of Pulo Gin, well out in the fairway of vessels proceeding between Bankii and Singapore Straits, especially such as pass inside Frede- PULO PANJANG. 303 rick Eeef. Its North extreme is in lat. 0° 48' N., long. 104° 58' E., from which it extends S.W. by S. about 2 miles, having 2 to 4 fathoms water over it, 19 to 20 fathoms nearly close to the eastern side, and 8 to 12 fathoms, irregular depths, near the S.W. and West sides. Raleigh Shoal lies W. by S. ^ S. 3 miles from the south-eastern extreme of the Gr Idria. It has only 2 fathoms water over a coral bottom, from which Pulo Borean bears W. by N. i N. 5 miles, and Pulo Euig N. by E. 11 miles. A shoal patch, with only 2 fathoms water over it, coral and sand, lies S.W. by W. ^ W. nearly 6 miles from the South extreme of the Geldria. It is nearly a mile in length and half a mile in breadth, and from its centre Pulo Borean bears N.W. J N., distant 4J miles. There are several other knolls, with 4 and 5 fathoms over them, between this patch and the Geldria, of which they are considered to be a continuation ; they should be avoided by vessels of heavy draught. Pulo Terobi, the southern islet off Pulo Gin, bearing W. \ S., clears the southern extreme of the above shoals ; and the Boat Kocks in line with Pulo Borean W. by S. f S., or Pulo Euig N.N.W. \ W., clears the northern ex- treme. No good marks can be given to clear the eastern side, which is steep-to, but the high peak of Linga bearing S.S.W. ^ W., is a broad and distant clearing mark, and leads over the large sand-bank, carrying 7 to 10 fathoms, south-eastward of Pulo Gin. Boat Rocks, lying about 2J miles N.W. ^ N. from the North end of the Geldria Bank, are three low rocks, visible about 4 miles from a ship's deck. A rocky patch, with 3 fathoms water over it, lies between the northern ex- treme of the Geldria Bank and the Boat Eocks, the latter bearing N.W. by W. distant 1 mile. A coral hank, with 3 to 5 fathoms over it, and about 1 mile in extent, lies W.S.W., 5^ miles from Pulo Euig. Pulo Burean, or Saddle Island, bearing S.S.W., clears its eastern side. PULO PANJANG, which in the Malay language signifies Long Island, lies about 9 miles off the East coast of Bintang. It is a large irregular- shaped island, about 5 miles in extent. Eocks extend off its S.E. point, the outer ones of which, named Bare JRocks, are 55 ft. high. On the N.E. side of the island the coral reef is absent, leaving a small sandy bay, where vessels may anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile off' shore. Wood and water may be procured in this bay, and boats can approach close to the beach at all hours of the tide. Fulo Ruig, 315 ft. high, lies 3^ miles E. by S. \ S. from Bare Eocks. It is nearly a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction. Passage Rock, 55 ft. high, lies about three-quarters of a mile to the northward of the N.E. point of Panjang. Pulo Suto, Middle Mock, Black Bock, and Pulo Blanhap, lying North and N.W. of Pulo Panjang, form a sort of chain, stretching from outside the 304 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE. dangers off the North coast of that island to the shore of Bintang, and to the southward of which no vessel, except under extraordinary circumstances, should attempt to pass. North-east Coast of Bintang. — From Tanjong Blanhap to Tanjong Brakit, 8 miles to the N.N.W. ^ W., the N.E. coast of Bintang forms a bay about 2 miles deep, indented with several small bights or coves. Over a point about a mile N.W. of Tanjong Blanhap is a conspicuous tree, the top of •which is 252 ft. above the sea ; 2 miles W.N.W. of the tree is a hill, 420 ft. high. Three-quarters of a mile northward of this hill, close to the coast line on the deepest part of the large bay, is another, named Double Tree Hill, 334 feet high. Two or three small streams of fresh water appear to discharge themselves near the middle of this bay. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Horsburgh Lighthouse, Sin- gapore Strait, at lO** 10" p.m ; at Tanjong Brakit, the N.E. point of Bin- tang, at ll'^ 0"; at Pulo Suto, at 'o^ 40""; at Pulo Panjang, at 4'' 20™; at Pulo Borean, at 6'' 0™ ; and at Pulo Terobi, at l** 0"" p.m. The rise is 9 ft., but on extraordinary occasions it is 12 ft. During the shifting months of the monsoons the tidal streams are regular, but during their strength the surface current will be always more or less governed by the wind. The flood tidal wave comes from the northward, and runs nearly parallel to the East coast of Bintang, along its southern side towards Abang Strait, and to the northward of E.hio Strait, meeting another tide from Singapore Strait near the town of Ehio. The flood sets to the southward along the East coast of Linga, and close to Tanjong Eung, its south-eastern extreme ; from thence it runs West to Ponoebo Strait, and obliquely across Linga Bay to Varella Strait. From Tanjong Eung to Pulo Taya, and onwards to Banka Strait, its direction is nearly South. Another stream from about 2 miles South of Taya sets towards Varella Strait. The ebb stream sets in the opposite direction, and the meeting of this stream from Banka and Varella Straits was observed to take place near the supposed position of Smith Bank. ISLANDS, ETC., BETWEEN BORNEO AND SINGAPOEE 8TEAIT. PULO DATU, the peak of which, 1,042 feet high, is in lat. 0° 10' N., long. 108° 35' 50" E., is an oblong-shaped island, IJ mile in extent N.E. and S.W., and three-quarters of a mile broad. It is a conspicxious object when approached from the southward, and is visible from the anchorage in Pon- tianak and Mampawa Eoads. Close to the island are depths of 6 to 14 DIRECTION AND ST. BAEBE ISLANDS. 305 fathoms; to the westward the soundings are 16 to 19 fathoms, but 29 and 30 fathoms a mile to the eastward of it. DIRECTION ISLAND, or Pulo Paneely Ketchil, in lat. 0° 14' 39" N., long. 108° r 53' E., is of conical form in the centre, and has a small hill on its North end. The island is 639 ft. high, and visible in clear weather at 30 or 33 miles off. A small island lies nearly half a mile off the S.E. extreme of Direction Island, and in the channel between are depths of 10 to 17 fathoms. ST. BARBE ISLAND, or Pandjangkang, is high, of triangular form, about 3 miles long, and when first seen appears like two or three islands, beino- lower at the centre than at the N.E. and West parts. The highest hill on its N.E. end is 762 ft. high, and in lat. 0° 8' 6" N., long. 107° 13^' E. The hni on the South end is 684 ft. high. The South point of the island is cliffy and bold, but a reef fills up the first bay on its East side. The West side of the island is divided into two small bays. Off the N.W. point of the island are two or three small rocks a few- feet above water, and a reef projects about a quarter of a mile from the point to the northward of it. A small rock above water lies near the middle of the large bay on the North side of the island, and a third of a mile North of this rock is another sometimes awash, with 10 and 17 fathoms close to it. A small ix)ck above water also lies close to the East side of the North point of the island. Water, wood, &c., may be procured in a bay on the East side of the N.W. point of St. Barbe, and also near the S.E. point. As the shore is fronted by a reef, boats can only land at high tide, at which time fresh water may be rafted off. Water may also be obtained from the bay at the North point of the island, abreast of which is the best anchorage in the southerly monsoon. Wood may also be procured upon the island, and turtle sometimes found upon its sandy beaches. Welstead Eock was discovered in 1825 by Captain G. Welstead, com- manding the ship General Harris, which grazed over it. This officer took great pains to ascertain its exact position, which is lat. 0^ 32' N., long. 107° 53' E. The shoal extends half a mile in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, its breadth being about a cable's length. It consists of a number of pinnacle rocks, with varying depths of 7 to 3 fathoms ; clore around it are 17 to 23 fathoms. Ebeling Shoal. — Captain Ebeling, commanding the Chilian ship IfercedeOf in 1863, reported having sounded in 4^ fathoms upon a coral shoal, and whilst the lead was being hauled in, the vessel passed over one side of a patch upon which there appeared to be as little as 16 or 18 ft. water. The bear- ings given were : — St. Barbe Island, S. 28° W., middle of St. Esprit group, I. A. 2 E 306 BANKA TO SINGAPORE. N. 79° W. ; Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang (Tambelan group), N. 14° E., which places the shoal in lat. 0° 31' N., long. 107° 26' E. The St. Esprit Group (or Watas Islands) consists of 13 or 14 small high islands and islets, extending about 12 or 13 miles in a W.N.W. and opposite direction, between the parallels of 0° 31' and 0° 39' N., and the meridians of 106° 58' and 107° HE.; between the islands are deep and generally clear channels. S.E. Island, 145 ft. high, in lat. 0° 30f N., long. 107° 8^' E., is a mere islet,, a quarter of a mile in extent, and connected by a reef to a low white rock, which lies a quarter of a mile northward of it. S.W. Island, 305 ft. high, in lat. 0° 33i' N., long. 106° 58^' K, is a mere islet, bold-to ; close to the southward of it are soundings of 30 to 34 fathoms. Eowqua Shoal is a doubtful danger, said to lie 4 miles S. % W. from S.W. Island. Brace Islands comprise two small islets, about three-quarters of a mile apart, and a third islet, about twice their size, and 572 ft. high, a mile to the N.W. of them. The easternmost island, which is also the easternmost of the group, is in lat. 0° 33f' N., long. 107° 10|' E. A S-fathom patch, with 7 and 8 fathoms around it, lies about half a mile W.S.W. from the northern- most and largest of the Brace Islands. Head Island, 372 ft. high, lies near the centre of the group, W N.W. 2 miles from Hound Island, about a mile in extent. The channels on either side of Head Island appear to be clear of danger, and to have depths of 35 to 45 fathoms water in them ; but with the N.E. extreme of Head Island bearing S.S.W. i W., distant a mile, and the apex of the northern Brace Island S.E. by E. ^ E., a little over 4 miles, is the Royalist Rock, close to which are depths of 38 and 40 fathoms. Centre Island is the name of a small round islet, 169 ft. high, lying W. by N. ^ N. 2J miles from Head Island, and about two-thirds of a mile from the S.E. extreme of the largest island of the St. Esprit group. The largest island of the St. Esprit group (which is not named upon the charts) is also the northernmost one. It is If mile long North and South, and three-quarters of a mile broad, and the hill on its southern end, 825 ft. high, is in lat. 0° 37' 51" N., long. 107° 0' 50" E. Bush Island, the westernmost island of the group, lies about W.S.W. 2 miles from the largest island. Its apex, 393 feet high, bear nearly North of S.W. Island ; the two islands are a little over 2^ miles apart. An islet, 1 20 feet high, named Clump, lies about half a mile northward of its North point. Discoloured water has been observed at 20 miles westward of Bush Island. GREEN ISLAND is small, square-shaped, about a third of a mile in extent, covered with trees, and has a white sandy beach. It lies in a direct line between the easternmost of the St. Esprit group and the Tambelan TAMBELAN ISLANDS. 307 Islands, and is surrounded to a short distance by a reef, near to which are from 17 to 32 fathoms ; its centre is in lat. 0" 44' 43" N., long. 107° 18' 52" E. Rodger Rock, upon which the ship Mleti, Capt. Alexander Eodger, struck in 1845, is of very small extent, and is about 100 yards square ; but at low water springs there is but 3 ft. water on it. Its position is lat. 0° 41' 15" N., long. 107° 31' 12" E., and from it Tambelan Peak is seen over the right summit of Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang, and bears N. ;| E. ; Green Island, W. by N. i N., 12| miles; the eastern extreme of the Tambelan group, N. by E. ; and the western extreme N.N.W. ^ W. This is an exceedingly dangerous rock, for there are regular soundings of 19 to 22 fathoms close to and for miles around it. The Rifleman was steam- ing in its vicinity for four days before it was discovered ; it was ultimately found by the weather tide causing a slight ripple. There is little doubt but this is the rock seen by Mr. Robert Loney, Pay- master, E.N., when in command of the Rose Ellis, and marked by that name in the Admiralty charts. The rock is so far from the islands that the least error in bearing would cause the discrepancy in the positions given by Cap- tains Rodger and Loney. White Rock, about 80 ft. high, lies E. by S., 5 miles from the South end of Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang, the southernmost island of the Tambelan group, and on its S.W. side are two small pinnacle rocks, about 12 ft. above high water. TAMBELAN ISLANDS lie about 27 miles to the north-eastward of the St. Esprit group, between the parallels of 0° 52' and 1° 7' N., and the meri- dians of 107° 21' and 107° 35^' E. They comprise a considerable number of islands, and form two groups or chains, each extending N.W. and S.E. about 13 or 14 miles, and were surveyed by Commander Ward, E.N., in H.M.S. Rifleman. South-Western Group. — Pulo Gigang Besar (or Jarrang), the most south- eastern island of this group, is If mile long North and South, two-thirds of a mile broad, and is bordered to a short distance by a reef. It is a high island, rising to a peaked hill in the centre, and having a lower one near each extreme. Gigang Ketchil, an island about a quarter the size of Gigang Besar, lies a mile westward of it, and is also fronted by a reef, which, off its North end, projects nearly a quarter of a mile. A coral shoal, of fathoms (probably the Constance Shoal), was found lying off the S.W. end of Gigang Ketchil, being separated from that island by a narrow channel of 17 to 22 fathoms water. From its shoalest patch of 3 fathoms water, which is on the western extreme of the shoal, the S.W. end of the island bears E. by S. ^ S., 9 cables' lengths. Several other shoal patches and dangers were found near the Tambelan Islands, but they lie quite out of the ordinary track of vessels. Three miles N.W. of the Gigang Islands is a group of small islands, the 308 BANKA. TO SINGAPORE. north-eastern of which, Harhour Island, or Pulo Smot, limits the narrowest part of the channel between the two main groups of the Tambelan Islands, Two-thirds of a mile westward of it is a much larger island, Pulo Bedua, which has four hills upon it, rising N.E. and S.W. of each other, the highest hill, 408 feet, being near its West end. The channel between the Gigang Islands and the Bedua group is free from dadger, with soundings of 16 to 23 fathoms. Bunoa, by far the largest island of the south-western group, is nearly 4 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 2^ miles broad. Its highest part, near its N.E. end, is elevated 915 ft., and there are several other undulating hills upon it, from 200 to 700 ft. high. The North shore of the island forms a bay, in which vessels may anchor in 10 to 16 fathoms, and find excellent ishelter in the S.W. monsoon. Close to the East side of Bunoa are two smaller islands, Selindang and Gilla ; Selindang is a remarkable cone-shaped island, rising to an elevation of 681 ft. ; Gilla is about a third of the height of Selindang. The group of ten islands extending nearly 5 miles to the north-westward of Bunoa, are all tolerably elevated, and Mundaga, the outermost of them, is 697 ft. high. The channels between them are deep and generally free from danger, but that between Bunoa and Ehd (the island next to the north- westward of Bunoa) cannot be recommended as being perfectly safe. A reef extends some distance from the North and N.E. part of Ebul, which renders the channels between that island and Tamban * and Pening Islands dan- gerously narrow. A rock atvash lies about a third of a mile from the S.W. extreme of Leso, the island lying close to the western part of Bunoa ; else- where these islands appear free from danger, and may be approached to a half or a third of a mile with safety. North-Eastern Group. — TAMBELAN, or Great Tambelan, the largest island of the Tambelan group, is of somewhat triangular shape, nearly 4^ miles in extend N.W. and S.E., and about the same N.E. and S.W. Upon its N.E. coast are several hills, the highest of which, Tambelan Peak, in lat. 1° r 5" N., long. 107° 32' 22" E., rises to an elevation of 1,300 ft. Zoiv Feah, 643 ft. high, is on the N.W. end of the island ; and a short distance to the eastward of Tambelan Peak is Thiml Peak, a remarkable sloping hill 953 ft. high. East Peak, a shap cone 950 ft. high, rises near the eastern extreme of the island. Tambelan Island is nearly divided into two parts by a creek, which runs in a north-easterly direction into its western side. The creek is nearly a mile wide, but fringed with reefs and encumbered with several rocks. A break- water, composed of coral, crosses its upper part, about 1^ mile within the * The principal observatory station of the Rijlcman's survey was upon the North point of Pulo Tiiinbuu, which was luund to he in kit. 1° 9' 27" N., long, 107" 24' 10" E. TAMBELAN ISLANDS. 309 entrance, leaving but a narrow boat channel, through which the tide rushes •with great force. Behind the breakwater is a stockade, and a fort stands upon the shore near the West end of the breakwater. The whole of these works have been constructed to defend the village, which is about half a mile beyond the breakwater on the western bank of the creek, from the attacks of the Llanun pirates, who occasionally visit these islands, and carry off into slavery any of the natives they can lay their hands upon. A reef extends from the East point of Tambelan Island, and upon its edge, half a mile southward of the point, is a rock above water. The N.E. coast is almost free from reefs. A reef, with a rock awash on its extreme, extends about one-third of a mile from the S.W. point of the island, and then trends away, fronting the coast, into Tambelan Creek. Pulo Bungin, 253 ft. high, is a small island lying 1:^ mile westward of the N.W. point of Tambelan. Sedua Besar, 860 ft. high, and Sedua Ketchil, 650 feet high, are two islands which extend from 1^ to 3 J miles north-westward of Tambelan Island, separated from each other by a very narrow, deep channel ; both islands are bold close-to. Sendulang Besar and Sendulang Ketchil, lying 3 miles north-westward of the Sedua Islands, are two small, round-shaped islands, surrounded to a short distance by reefs, and separated by a very narrow channel. Sendulang Besar, the western and larger island, rises to a sharp cone 749 ft. high ; the Bmaller island is only 309 ft. high. Pulo Way, the north-westernmost island of the Tambelan group, is about 2 miles in extent, and rises to several peaked hills, the highest of which, near its eastern end, is elevated 1,057 ft. Anchorages. — There is good anchorage anywhere between the two groups of the Tambelan Islands, which form an extensive basin or harbour ; the depths being generally 17 to 20 fathoms, and the bottom of mud and sand ; here and there are places where the soundings are a few fathoms more or less. In the N.E. monsoon a vessel may anchor in the entrance to Tambelan Creek, but she must go but a very little way inside the edges of the reef, on account of a pinnacle rock with 2 fathoms water over it, which lies S.S.E. nearly a quarter of a mile from Suicides Point, the North entrance point to the creek. This position would be unsafe in the S.W. monsoon ; the best anchorage at that season being under Bunoa, in 14 to 18 fathoms if in the bay between Pulo Gilla and Bunoa, and in from 9 to 14 fathoms if in the bay on the North side of the latter island, which is the best anchorage. Supplies.— Ships cannot depend upon procuring supplies at the Tambelan Islands. The officers of the Bifieman were only able to obtain a few fowls, and those few with great difficulty. There is a well of good water just to the northward of the mound on the South side of the entrance to Tambelan Creek, and another on the North side about 2 cables' lengths northward of Suicides Point. The village in the creek is inhabited by about 500 Malays, 310 BANKA TO SINGAPORE. and the other islands of the group are temporarily inhabited for the purpose of collecting cocoa-nuts. Goats are also bred upon these islands, but at the period of the Rifleman's visit none could be purchased. EUROPE SHOAL is about a mile in extent N. by E. and S. by W., and the least water on it 3 fathoms, is about the middle of the shoal, in lat. 1° 11' 19" N., long. 107" 25' 27" E., the Eocky Islets bearing W. J S. 12^ miles ; Gap Rock E. f N. 9 miles ; summit of Pulo Way S. by W. i W. 5^ miles ; western extreme of the Tambelan Group S.S.W. ^ W. 6J miles; and eastern extreme S.E. southerly \b\ miles. ROCKY ISLETS, lying N.W. by W. ^ W., 12 miles from Pulo Way, are merely two barren rocks, the resort of sea birds. They are bold close-to, and occupy a space about 2 cables in extent. The northern and larger rock, 134 ft. high, is in lat. 1° 11' 9" N., long. 107^ 13' E. Between them and the Tambelan Group the depths are 33 and 34 fathoms. GAP ROCK, in lat. 1" 12' 30" N., long. 107° 34' 20" E., and distant 12J miles N. ^ W. from the eastern extreme of the Tambelan Group, is very re- markable. It consists of two large boulders lying upon a flat rock, the larger of which is 124 ft. above the water. A shoal extends about 2 cables' lengths from its South side. ST. JULIAN, in lat. 0° 55' 40" N., long. 106° 43' 30" E., is a remarkable island, being nearly a mile long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 200 yards broad. It is low in the centre, rising to a hill 318 ft. high on the South end, and to another, 537 ft. high, on the North end, which latter forms an exceedingly bold cliff to seaward. There is deep water close-to on all sides. CAMELS HUMP, in lat. 1° 11' 46" N., long. 106^ 58' E., is about half a mile long, East and West, and a third of a mile broad. It is well named, the highest part of the island forming a sort of hump, elevated 574 ft. above the sea. No danger was discovered in its vicinity. SADDLE ISLAND, in lat. 1° 19' 21" N., long. 107° 2' 17" E., is only half a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. This island is also well named ; the hills forming the saddle are in line on a S. ^ W. and opposite bearing, the higher one on the North side being 387 ft. high. BARREN ISLAND is a whitish rock, 80 ft. high, and its summit (by the Bifleman) is in lat. 1° 31' 50' N., long. 106° 25' 35" E. It is justly denomi- nated Barren, having not the slightest trace of vegetation, and is bold-to, with 10 fathoms close alongside. It appears to be the resort of varieties of sea-fowl, which, in the season of incubation, deposit great quantities of eggs, — the tern, kittiwake, and gulls occupying the summit, the booby, or gannet, the base. The Malay fishermen resort here for these eggs, and from the stores found en caclie cannot be very particular as to their freshness. Of the eggs, those of the tern were not inferior to plover, and those of the gannet nearly equal to the duck, making very acceptable omelettes and puddings. — Oil the N.W. side of Barren Island is a natural reservoir, containing about VICTORY AND ST. PIERRE ISLANDS. 311 10 gallons of water. It is asserted that it is used by the Malays possibly by previous cleansing of the reservoir Landing is easy on the western side. VICTORY ISLAND, in lat. 1° 34' 46" N., long. 106° 18' 40" E., is densely wooded, and rises to a hill in the centre, 285 ft. high. HUGHES SHOAL.— The Rifleman, in April, 1863, searched for the Doubt- ful Reef, said " to have been seen in the brig Bombay Merchant, commanded by Mr. Hughes, in January, 1825, and was nearly in one with Victory Island, bearing N.E. 5 or 6 miles." The Rifleman anchored on a shoal — the island bearing N.E. f E., distant half a mile — in 3i fathoms, reduced to low water springs, which was the least water found. This shoal is of coral, one-third of a mile long, N.E. and S.W., and a quarter of a mile broad, its outer edge in 8 fathoms lying S.W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile from the island. Acasta Rock, lying N. by W. 4 miles from Victory Island, is just under the surface of the water, and in calm weather presents exactly the appearance described in Horsburgh, " the central part of a very brown colour, declining to a pale green around." The least swell breaks on it. ST. PIERRE ISLANDS are wooded, and appear to be connected by a reef. St. Pierre Rock, South, nearly 1| mile distant from the southern tree- covered island of St. Pierre, and in lat. 1° 51' 44" N., long. 108° 38' 57", (4° 47' 39" East of Fort Fullerton, Singapore), is about 30 yards in lengthy 20 yards in width. It is very steep-to, and is never less than 6 ft. above water, the dry surface being completely blackened. It is, indeed, formed of a close-grained, black basalt, and is not to be confounded with the coralline incrustations about it. Close around its margin are 14, 15, and 19 fathoms. The space between the islands and the rock is sate, having depths of 20 fathoms. Tides. — The ebb tide between the St. Pierre Group and Tanjong Api sets to the southward. The current of flood, which prevailed during the ex- amination of St. Pierre Rock, set to the N.E. The rise of tide did not ex- ceed 4 ft. General Remarks. — As the Rifleman was constantly shifting her position during the operations of the survey, no good opportunity offered for obtain- ing a series of tidal observations. Such as were procured were so irregular, that no general conclusion could be formed from them. It was observed, however, that during the S.W. monsoon (from the middle of July to the middle of September), and also during the N.E. monsoon (in the month of December), that the tides set to windward every day against the prevailing current, although they were uncertain as to commencement and time of duration. The weather was very fine, and the winds generally light. Sailing vessels would frequently shorten their passages through this part of the China Sea, if they kept a kedge ready to let go during light airs and calms, and when 312 BANK A TO SINGAPOEE. both current and tide would otherwise be setting them back over the ground they had with difficulty gained. Directions from Singapore Strait to Tanjong A2n in Borneo. — Quitting the Komania Islands and Shoals, where there are pretty regular tides, the current off shore will be found to run about N.N. W. in the S.W. monsoon, and having gained 50 miles easting, its greatest strength will be found set- ting between Pulo Timoan and the Anamba Islands. In order to obviate the effect of this set or current, it is considered prudent to make good the course for Saddle Island, by which, should light airs pre- vail, the option will be afforded of steering clear of Victory or Barren Islands, and avoiding the Acasta Eock. This caution may appear as unnecessary, the distance between Barren and Camel Islands being 33 miles. But a very little consideration will satisfy the navigator that, upon the course shaped to counteract the current, running strong in the vicinity of these islands (to the north-eastward as near as could be determined by the lines of scum viewed from the summit of Barren Island), he would not, even, with a fair wind, pass more than 10 miles to windward of Victory and Barren Islands. On leaving Barren Island, a course should be shaped to pass well to the south- ward of the St. Pierre Islands. In the N.E. monsoon the current will generally be found setting about S.S.E., a few miles outside the entrance of Singapore Strait, taking a more south-easterly direction as the distance from the land is increased. For directions for leaving Singapore Strait during this monsoon, see page 56. The soundings off St. Pierre Pock, and in the direct course for Tanjong Api, range between 20 and 15 fathoms, and approaching this headland the first cast under 1 5 fathoms at night should be deemed the warning. If in a sailing vessel, deep water to the northward must be sought for. By day, as the land is neared, the vessel's position may readily be determined by the relative position of the coast hillocks, with the mountain range behind, and if clear, the land of Tanjong Datu should be clearly made out before attempt- ing to close, or communicate with, Tanjong Api. — Sir Edw. Belcher. 2.— RHIO STEAIT. General Description. — The route outside Linga and through Ehio Strait, is the one now commonly adopted by vessels proceeding either way between Sunda Strait and Singapore, for the reason that Ehio Strait is " safe, shel- tered, and easily navigable, the Dutch Government having placed beacons on many of the dangers ; whereas the route outside Bintang is exposed in both monsoons, and the fairway encumbered with many rocks ai^d shoals, which render it necessary for vessels to keep a great distance from the land." This route is particularly convenient for vessels leaving Singapore for "■*■ rt ■" fSiuki Clian»«>r.'" JV,».' " '» '" -■ / "S! ,. /7 ""'■'" K i X r A X G I S I STKAIIS Ol- >v^ vn; 5 11 If ©Alp DIRE, C?. '-^"'^^^ "1 °^^'''>XA, ' IMiKlAN, AM) KlIIO.^' ■'' -" "1 ""'., 7- ,„ " ""t»» 3 ' '^'-j. "'V '''I 3 EHIO STRAIT— MISSANA ISLAND. , 313 Europe in the N.E. monsoon, and few navigators now adopt any other ; as by proceeding through Rhio Strait, they avoid the delay and incovenienee frequently experienced during that season in getting to sea by the main channel of Singapore Strait, past Horsburgh lighthouse. In the S.W. mon- soon, also, vessels are frequently able to proceed to the southward much quicker by Rhio Strait than by the route outside Bintang. The following directions are taken from those drawn up by Lieutenant J. W. Reed, R.N., who together with Lieut. Tizard and the officers of H.M.S. Rifleman, surveyed the strait between the years 1865 and 1868. Caution.— As the buoys in Rhio Strait have at times been reported out of position, too much reliance must not be placed on them. WEST SIDE OF THE STRAIT. MISSANA ISLAND, which with the opposite island of Talang forms the southern limit of the strait, is somewhat peculiar in shape, consisting of two narrow ranges of hills, moderately elevated, which running in different direc- tions form an elbow ; the longer range extends from the South point of the island 4 J miles in a N. by W. \ W. direction, and the shorter range E. by S., 2 miles from the northern part. Niamok, a small square-shaped island, lies \\ mile south-eastward of the South point of Missana, and between them is a rocky islet, and several dan- gers which block the channel. A small, thickly-wooded islet lies a quarter of a mile south-eastward of the East point of Missana, forming with the eastern side of that island and Niamok a bay, which appears to offer excel- lent anchorage ; but it is treacherous, a;nd must be entered with caution, for a reef extends nearly a mile in a north-easterly direction from Niamok, while the shore of Missana is fronted by a reef which projects in places nearly three-quarters of a mile, and just embraces the small 'islet off the East point. Vessels may, however, find safe and convenient anchorage anywhere in the bay, in from 5| to 8 fathoms, by avoiding to bring the eastern part of the small islet to the eastward of N.E. by E. \ E., and the eastern side of Niamok to the eastward of S. by E. J E. ; the South point of Missana bear- ing W. by S. clears the reef which projects from Niamok. The shore reef extends but a short distance from the north-eastern part of Missana, but from the North shore it projects about half a mile, and a 2- fathoms patch lies some distance outside the edge of the reef, which makes it dangerous to approach that shore nearer than a mile. A mass of rocks above water lies 2 or 3 cables westward of Observation Point, the N.W. point of the island, westward and south-westward of which other dangers extend more than half a mile. I. A. :i s 314 BANKA TO SINGAPORE. RODONG PEAK, 797 ft. high, bears S.W. by W. 4^ miles from theN.W. point of Missana. Viewed from the southward, it presents a conical appear- ance, and being the only hill of this feature in the vicinity is very conspicuous. It is one of the principal objects which will enable a stranger to make out the entrance to Rhio Strait, for it can nearly at all times be seen over Missana as the strait is approached. The hill, from the peak, forms a shoulder to the north-westward, and then gradually slopes away in that direction, so that as Missana is passed the conical shape disappears. BINAN ISLAND, lying "W.N.W. 3^ miles from Missana, is easily recog- nised by a conspicuous hill, 269 ft. high, at the S.E. end. A reef fronts the greater part of Binan, extending a quarter of a mile off the North part, and more than double that distance off the N.W. extreme. Rifleman Shoal, a patch of hard sand 3 cables in extent, lies about a mile off the centre of Binan ; the least water upon it is 2 fathoms, and from this spot the hill on the island bears S.W., and the N.W. extreme W. by N. Katang Linga lies 1| mile N.W. by W. from Binan; it is a bold, bluff- looking island, 246 ft. high, nearly a mile long, and half a mile broad ; a shore reef fronts the greater part of it, extending off in some places nearly 1^ cable. A shoal, having but three-quarters of a fathom water over it, lies three-quarters of a mile W.S.W. from the North point of Katang Linga. The straits and islands dividing them, which lie to the westward of Mis- sana, Binan, Katang Linga, &c., are hereafter described. Selanga Islands, three in number, are mere islets, but elevated and con- spicuous ; they lie to the north-westward of the Tetampan Group, the northern one bearing from the North end of Katang Linga W. by S., distant 3 miles. Vessels working should not stand within a line drawn between Katang Linga and the North Selanga, which will keep them clear of the shoal W.S.W. of the first named island, and of a reef, having a rock with a tree upon it, which lies between the Tetampan Group and the Selangas ; and a 2-fathom patch lies 2 cables North of the North Selanga. Oedek Island is small. It lies N.W. by W. J W., 3^ miles from the North Selanga, and E. by N. from the North end of the long island of Pan- gallap. This island, as well as the Selangas, lies quite out of the track of steamers, or of sailing vessels proceeding through Rhio Strait with a fair wind, but it may sometimes be found convenient when working through to stand so far to the westward, in which cases ships should not pass a line drawn between the North Selanga and Oedek, in order to avoid a rock awash which lies W. J N., If mile from the former island. PULO DUMPO or RONDO, 129 ft. high, lies N.W. i W. 7^ miles from Katang Linga, and about \h mile south-eastward of the South end of Ga- lang Island. It is a remarkable little island, showing very round and bold against the adjacent land, and is one of the most useful objects for recog- nising the entrance to the narrow part of the strait when coming from the EHIO STEAIT— LITTLE GAEEAS LIGHTHOUSE. 315 southward. A patch of 2 fathoms, named Haai Shoal, lies a quai-ter of a mile to the south-eastward of it ; a^jd there is a rock above water a good quarter of a mile to the north-westward. Great Bank. — Galang terminates to the southward in a loner narrow point, projecting in a S.S.E. ^ E. direction, and half a mile to the eastward are three small islands lying in a line parallel to it ; between the point and outer island is a coral patch with 2 fathoms water over it, and 7 to 9 fathoms round about. Between these islands and the large one of Selatan, about 3 miles north-eastward of them, is a deep bay fronted by a bank, named by the Dutch, Groote or Great Bank. This bank has 2i to 3 fathoms over it, 3^ to 5 fathoms between it and the small islands, and 4 to 8 fathoms be- tween it and Selatan. The anchorage in the bay inside the bank was for- merly considered to be good, but large reefs and shoals extend, both from Galang and Selatan, which render it anything but a safe and convenient place for large vessels seeking a temporary anchorage to resort to. East Bank lies N.N.E. J E. 4f miles, from Eulo Eondo, its outer or northern part being a third of a mile S.E. ^ E. of Tanjong Dempoe, the eastern point of the adjacent islands. It is a little more than half a mile in extent, with f to 1^ fathom water over it, and 10 to 12 fathoms near it. Tjassens Shoal is an extensive bank, with 1^ to 3 fathoms water over it, lying between Eulo Taron (the island close to the northward of Selatan) and the southern part of Great Garras Island ; the S.E. extreme, which is nearly in the line between Dempoe Eoint and the East end of Great Garras, termi- nates in a reef which dries at half- tide. Former charts exhibited a clear channel on each side of Tjassens Shoal, but the northern one is very narrow at the western end, does not afford a greater depth than 3 fathoms, and is only available for small vessels ; the southern channel is good, being nowhere less than three-quarters of a mile wide, with depths of 6 to 13 fathoms. Navigators using it, however, must be careful, when avoiding the shoal, to give a berth to a small patch of reef which lies a third of a mile off the N.E. part of Tarong, and after the West end of Great Garras is brought to bear N.E., that island must be approached in order to avoid the bank extending from the opposite shore, and upon which are some patches of reef; the northernmost of these patches has a small islet upon it, and lies N.W. a little over a mile from the West end of Great Garras. LITTLE GARRAS ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE marks the entrance of the narrow part of Ehio Strait. It is but a quarter of a mile long East and West, formed of two small hills, and encompassed by a narrow fringe of reef. On the eastern hill is the lighthouse, painted white, from which is exhibited a. Jixed bright liffht, elevated 114 ft. above the sea, and visible 8 miles. This light is very useful for guiding vessels into the narrow part of the strait by night, and leading them between Fankel and the Moebet Islands, and northward until Sau light comes in sight. 316 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE. Ditloffs Reef, lying about three-quarters of a mile S. by E. from the eastern extreme of Little Garras, has from 4^ to 10 fathoms water close to it ; and between it and that island is a patch with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it. GREAT GARRAS ISLAND is 3 J miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and three-quarters of a mile broad ; it has a flat summit, and terminates with abrupt points. A reef encircles it, and extends in places a quarter of a mile off. A patch of reef lies about a third of a mile from the N.W. point of the island, and from that point halfway along the North coast of the island, a bank, with but 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, projects nearly a mile, and for half a mile farther in the same direction the soundings are under 5 fathoms ; large vessels should not, therefore, stand inside a line drawn between Little Garras and East Moebet Island. Tarong Point, the N.E. extreme of Galand Island, bears N.N.W. | W. 2^ miles from the West end of Great Garras ; it has on its northern side a small bay, in which is a native village. A reef fronts the point at a distance of a quarter of a mile, and outside of it a shoal bank rounds away to the small islet opposite Great Garras. MOEBOET ISLANDS.— At 6 miles N.W. J N. from Little Garras is the larger and higher of the two Moeboet Islands, readily distinguished by its prominent position, and the deep inlets to the westward and southward. It rises to a round peak, with the greatest declivity on the eastern side ; whilst the smaller island, or West Moebet, is considerably lower towards its centre. Dangerous reefs and shoals extend from these islands lA^ mile to the south- ward. The West end of Great Garras bearing S. by W. clears them to the eastward, and the extreme of Tarong Point in one with the extreme of a point a mile westward of it bearing W. by N. | N., clears them to the south- ward. Shoals also extend more than a mile north-westward of East Moeboet, The North and East extremes of Semboland Point in one bearing about N.W. is a close mark for the eastern side of them, and the South end of Paukel, bearing E. by S. f S., clears them to the northward. SEMBOLANG POINT, the eastern extreme of Eempang Island, is the next prominent object on the western side of the main channel after passing northward of the Moeboet Islands. It is fronted by a reef, close to which are 5 to 9 fathoms. Erom this point the land trends to the westward, in- creasing the width of the strait. TIEMARA BANK lies N.W. | N. 3^ miles from Sembolang Point, and about 1 J mile eastward of Tiemara Island ; it is about half a mile in extent, with 1 J fathom water over it, and 7 to 9 fathoms near it. A black buoy with ivhite ring is moored on the eastern side of the bank, in 3 fathoms, with the N.E. point of Tiemara bearing N.W. by W., and the East point of Pulo Loban N.N.E. To avoid the bank, Sembolang Point should not be brought RHIO STRA.it— SAU ISLAND AND LIGHTHOUSE. 317 East of S.S.E., nor the eastern extreme of Little Tiemara Island to the North of N.W. TIEMARA ISLAND is elevated 341 ft., and when first seen appears like a bold point projecting from Rempang ; it is surrounded at a short distance by a reef. Little Tiemara Island, lying about a mile N. by W. i W. from the N.E. point of Tiemara Island, is about a third of a mile in extent, and surrounded by a reef which on the East side of the island projects a quarter of a mile; near the reef are 12 to 21 fathoms water. Between the Tiemara Islands are several reefs, which render the channel unnavigable. At 2|- miles N.W. from Little Tiemara is Antu Islet, off the North and East sides of which a reef extends for a quarter of a mile, and forms the southern side of the eastern entrance to Bulang Strait. To the eastward of a line joining Little Tiemara, and a little islet on the reef eastward of Antu Islet, there is a shoal which fills up the bay lying eastward of Pulo Kantyil and Ayer Radya. Innang Reef bears from Little Tiemara Island N.N.W. \ W. distant nearly 3 miles. It is marked by a wkite buoy with hlach ring in 5\ fathoms, on its eastern point, with the South point of Pulo Loban bearing E. by S. J S,, Sau light N. h W., and the South point of Pulo Innang W. ^ S. Near it are depths of 10 fathoms, and southward and south-westward of it is a small bank of 4tV and 5 fathoms. INNANG ISLAND, H mile northward of Ajer Radja, forms the northern side of the entrance to Bulang Strait. A reef fronts the island to the dis- tance of a third of a mile. Sau lighthouse, if not brought to the north- ward of N. by W. ^ W., will keep a vessel clear of Innang Reef and the tongue of rocks and sand extending from Sau. SAU ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE.— Sau Island is larger than Innang, and lies to the northward of it. Inside these two islands are several small islands, with channels between them into Bulang Strait. A detached rocky patch lies S.S.E., a quarter of a mile from the eastern point of Sau. The lighthouse, painted white, is erected on the East point of Sau Island, from it di fixed bright light is exhibited at an elevation of 118 ft., visible 8 miles off. Little Innang Island and Van Gogh's Shoal.— Little Innang is a small island lying off' the N.E. part of Sau, opposite West Point, Bintang, from which it is distant nearly 2 miles ; it is encompassed by the reef which runs in a northerly direction from the East point of Sau. Dangerous shoals extend for 2i miles to N.N.W. from Little Innang Island ; and Van Gogh's Islet, N.W. by W. * W. from the East point of Little Innang, is situated on a coral reef. The East point of Sau in line with the East point of Little Innang clears all these dangers to the eastward, and Malang Yarong (an islet on the opposite coast) bearing E. i S. clears them to the northward. The soundings decrease rather quickly under a depth of 10 fathoms near the dangers just described, and in the event of a vessel 318 BANK A TO SINGAPOEE. standing towards the southernmost of them getting a cast of 10 fathoms or less, she should tack immediately. Malang Orang Reef. — The N.E. coast of Battam, from abreast Sau Island to Nongsa or Boerong Point, which forms the western point of the North entrance to Rhio Strait, is fronted by a reef, extending in some places to the distance of three-quarters of a mile from it. The Malang Orang Reef lies nearly three-quarters of a mile from the Battam shore, and about E.S.E. from Malang Orang Point. It is nearly half a mile in extent North and South, with 5 to 8 fathoms near it. It is marked by a black buoy with white ring on its eastern edge, in 9 fathoms, with Pan beacon bearing N.E. \ E. PAN REEF, lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance of Rhio Strait, is extensive and rocky, and visible at low water, when it appears as a long ridge of black stones. It is half a mile long N.E. f N. and S.W. ^ S., and 2 cables broad ; and close to it are depths of 5 to 7 fathoms, except at the S.W. end, where it is not so steep. A large screw pile beacon is placed near the NE. end of the shoal, and a black buoy with white ring, in 8 fathoms, on the S.W. point of the reef, with Sau light bearing South, and Pan beacon N.E. The other edges of the shoal are sometimes marked by small basket beacons, but they are not to be depended upon. There is a safe passage on either side of the shoal, but the native pilots, who generally conduct vessels through Rhio Strait, seldom use the eastern channel, where the depths are inconvenient for bringing up in case of bad weather. Barbukit kept North, or N. \ W., leads eastward of the Great Pan, and Johore Hill bearing about N. by W. | W. leads westward ; but Sau light- house in line with the East extreme of Little Innang, bearing S. ^ E., is a good leading mark for passing between the Pan Shoals ; and the lighthouse bearing S. f W. leads to the eastward of the Great Pan. In passing east- ward of the shoal, when Tanjong Nongsa (Boerong Point), the northern extreme of Battam, bears W. by N., or when Pulo Nongsa is just shut in behind Tanjong Nongsa, a vessel will be to the northward of it, and has entered the Strait of Singapore. Riondo Shoal, said to lie about N.W. ^ W., distant 1^ mile from the Pan Shodl, does not exist ; the locality has been thoroughly examined. LITTLE PAN REEF lies N.W. i N., 2^ miles from the Pan Reef. It is a small oval-shaped coral patch, with depths of 31 to 7 fathoms close around it. It is marked by a black buoy with white ring, in 3 fathoms, at its northern extremity, with Pan Reef beacon bearing S.E. by E., and Boerong Point W. by N. Pulo Nangsa just open of Nongsa Point leads just clear to the northward ; and Sau Point open of the land southward of Malang Orang Point leads close to the eastward. EHIO STRAIT— SIOLON ISLAND. 319 EAST SIDE OF THE STEAIT. Talang, or Long Island, may be known by a square hillock over its S.E, end, lioQ ft. high, which, with a sharper peak westward of it, forms a saddle; the land from this to the western end of the island is nearly of the same elevation. Gin, or Great Island, lies 2 miles to the eastward of the northern part of Talar.g, and forms one of the objects which serve to mark the entrance of Ehio Strait. Hendrik Jan Rod, on which a Dutch ship of that name struck in February 1861, is a dangerous pinnacle, nearly awash at low water, and steep-to, having 9 and 10 fathoms close around it. It lies S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the south-eastern point of Talang, with the summit of South-west Hill just shut in by the south-western extreme of Talang. This rock is of small size, and there was great difficulty in finding it. Several other shoal patches were found in the channel between Talang and Gin ; but they all, except the Hendrik Jan, lie out of the ordinary track of ships, and are dangerous only in the event of this channel being mistaken in thick weather for the entrance of Ehio. Vessels should give these islands a berth of 2 miles in passing, and not bring Terobi Island eastward of E. f N., until South-west Hill is well open of Talang. SIOLON, or MANTANG ISLAND, 7 miles long, E. by N. and W. by S., and 2^ miles broad, but divided by a narrow channel, lies to the north- westward of Talang, and is separated from it by a channel about IJ miles wide. On its S.W. end is South-west hill, 267 ft. high, which, when seen from the southward, appears as a double-peaked hiU, terminating to the westward in a point, which forms the S.W. extreme of the island ; but when viewed from the northward it makes with a peaked top. Four miles east- ward of South-west Hill is Stolon Hill, 507 ft. high, being the highest hiU on Siolon. At a distance of 12 miles to the southward both Siolon and South-west Hills appear as islands, owing to the land between them being low. The South shore of Siolon Island, between South-west and Siolon Hills, forms a bay about a mile deep, and is fronted bj' a fringe of reef and a shoal bank, extending out in places nearly three-quarters of a mile. Upon this bank lie two or three detached patches of reef. Thomas Shoal, a patch 4 cables in extent, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, lies W.S.W. from Segai Islet, distant nearly a mile. There is anchorage under the southern shore of Siolon, between South-west Hill and Thomas Shoal, 3f miles eastward of it, in from 10 to 6 fathoms, with shelter from northerly winds. There are channels on either side of Siolon which will lead out into the China Sea, northward of Pulo Gin ; but as they are quite out of the ordi- 320 BANKA TO SINGAPOllE. nary track of vessels, they should not be attempted by any one not locally acquainted. The tides in the channels run with, great strength, and there" are numerous overfalls. Alligator Island, l^- mile W.N.W. from the western end of Siolon ; seen from the westward, shows as three round lumps, but when approached from the northward, it appears to slope gradually from its northern end, which, is 101 ft. high. There is no passage between Alligator Island and Siolon. Alligator Reef, lying nearly a mile North of Alligator Island, is a quarter of a mile in extent. It is marked by a white buoy with hlack ring on its N.W. edge, in 4 fathoms, with West point of Alligator Island bearing S. i E. ; Topie Island, South point, W. by S. | S. ; and Blading Island N. by E. Blading Island, lying \\ mile to the northward of Alligator Reef, is small and surrounded by a reef which extends in a southerly direction more than a quarter of a mile. Eastward of Alligator Eeef and Blading Island are several other reefs and islands, lying off the northern shore of Siolon. Prins Reef, about a third of a mile in extent, 1^ mile N. by W. from Blading, lies on the outer edge of the shoal bank which fronts Batu Babie Point. The Topics are a cluster of small round islets and rocks lying about 2 miles westward of Alligator Reef. Topie in the Malay language signifies hat, and when approached from the southward these islets, as they rise above the horizon, certainly present very much the appearance of the round, inverted, basin-shaped topics, or hats, in use among the Malays. The northern and eastern islands are the largest of the group; the former is 134 feet, and the latter 118 feet high. When approaching the eastern island from the northward, it appears of a crown shape, and in clear weather may be seen 10 miles off. A rock lies close off the N.E. end of the eastern island ; and a hank half a mile long, with 2f fathoms water over it, lies with its outer edge bearing S.E. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile from the same island. Rotterdam Reef is a rocky patch, with only 1^ fathom water over it, lying W.S.W. a little more than half a mile from the northern of the Topies group. It is marked by a white buoy with hlack ring, in 2| fathoms, on its West side, with South point of Pankel bearing N.W. by W. 3 W., and Topie Island centre E. by N. i N. There is another reef, with but little water over it, lying N, by W. ^ W., nearly half a mile from the Western Topie ; its northern end is marked by a beacon. Near these dangers are 6 and 4 fathoms. Dutch Shoal, a quarter of a mile in extent, with 3 fathoms water over it, and 6 or 7 fathoms close to the western side of it, lies with Little Garras lighthouse bearing S. I W., 3J miles ; the northern island of the Topies group E. by S. | S., 3* miles ; and the S. W. extreme of Pankel N.W. i W., PANKEL ISLAND. 321 H mile. The novtliern Topie bearing E. by S. i S., and the 8.W. extreme of Pankel N."W. i N., will lead a quarter of a mile S.W. of this danger. This shoal is on the western edge of a bank, with 3 to 6 fathoms water on it, which lies about a mile off the S.E. end of Pankel, and extends 3^ miles farther in that direction from the island. A good mark to keep clear of the entire western edge is the apex of Loban Island in line with the western extreme of Pankel. Between the bank and Pankel the depths are 6 to 10 fathoms. PANKEL ISLAND, 2 miles long North and South, and half a mile broad, bounds the eastern side of the main channel of Ehio Strait, abreast of Great Grarras and the Moeboet Islands ; it is belted by a reef which extends from a quarter to half a mile from it. Outside the shore reef at the N.W. part of the island, a bank with less than 3 fathoms water over it, projects to a dis- tance of three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Eastward of this bank, and half a mile northward of the North point of the island, lies Pankel Reef, a patch of rocks about a quarter of a mile in diameter. Pankel, at a distance, makes as two distinct round hills ; on a nearer approach a sandy beach will be seen at its South end, from which rocks and fishing stakes extend nearly three-quai'ters of a mile. Rupels Reef, about a mile to the eastward of Pankel, has a hlach buoy with white ring on its East side, in 5 fathoms, with East point of Sore bearing N. by E. ; Pankel, N.W. point, N.W. i W. ; and Pankel, S.E. point, S.W. by W. Sore Island, lying E. by N. f N. nearly H mile from the North end of Pankel, is a small, round island, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and sur- rounded by a reef. A shoal bank, with less than 3 fathoms water on it, extends three-quarters of a mile to the south-eastward, the tail, with 3i to 5 fathoms water, stretching nearly a mile farther in the same direction. N.N.W. from the island the shore reef extends more than half a mile, and half a mile farther in the same direction lies a detached reef, nearly a third of a mile in diameter ; in the channel between are 5 to 8 fathoms. Nearly a mile from this last, in a N.W. I N. direction, lies the S.E. end of the largest of the Sore Reefs ; it is a narrow strip of sand and coral, a little more than IJ mile long N.W. I W. and S.E. J E., and marked by a ivhite buoy with hlach ring on its N.W. end in 2i fathoms, with Pitjingit bearing E. by N. i N., and Terkolei light N. by W. | W. The channel, limited on one side by Eupels Eeef, Pankel Island and Pankel Eeef, and on the other by Sore Island and the reefs and banks adja- cent to it, is perfectly free from danger, with depths of 9 to 14 fathoms. Dompa is an irregularly shaped island ; its western extreme, named Dompa Point, bears N.E. by E. 2 miles from Sore, and N. by W. 6 miles from the northern island of the Topies. Two small islands, surrounded by I. A. : avoid the Johannes Shoal. Little Tiemara is fronted by a reef, and should be given a berth of at least half a mile. After passing this island, Tiemara Bank will be avoided by not bringing the N.E. extreme of that island to the North of N.W., until the S.W. extreme of Tiemara is North of W. by N., ■when she may stand into the bay towards Sembolang Point, as convenient, tacking in 8 or 7 fathoms, Seinbolang Point may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 10 or 9 fathoms. After passing it, do not bring its South extreme to the West of W. by S. until the eastern extreme of East Moeboet bears S.S.E., to avoid a bank which extends N.N.W. of that island. Between East Moeboet and Great Garras a vessel may stand into 8 or 7 fathoms, but a good mark for tacking is to keep Little Garras well open of the East extreme of Great EHIO STRAIT -DIEECTIONS. 333 Garras, and this will also keep the vessel clear of the bank, which lies about 1 J mile to the southward of Moeboet. Little Garras Island may be approached to a quarter of a mile, but Great Garras not nearer than a mile. After passing Little Garras, the lighthouse must not be brought to the westward of N.W. until the East point of Galang (which projects into the middle of the bay to the southward) bears W. 4 S., in order to clear DitloflFs Eeef. Tjassens Shoal, which fills up a great por- tion of this bay, may then be approached to 9 or 8 fathoms. Come no nearer than half a mile to Dempoe Point ; and, after passing it, do not bring it North of N.W. by W. until the S.E. extreme of Selatan ia "West of W. by S., which will keep the vessel clear of East Bank and the shoal bank filling up Selatan Bay. Rondo or Dumpo Island bearing S.W. ^ S. also leads outside of East Bank and all other dangers between that island and Dempoe Point, and is a safe tacking mark. Between Rondo Island and Katang Linga a vessel may stand well over towards Oedik and Selanga Islands, but must avoid standing within a line drawn from the northward of the last-named islands to the N.W. extreme of Katang Linga. The East side of Katang Linga should not be approached nearer than half a mile, and in order to avoid the Rifleman Shoal (which, lies about H mile eastward of the N.E. point of Binan), the northern extreme of Katang Linga must not be brought North of W. by N. ^ N. (this also clears the 3i-fathom patch off the North part of Binan), nor the eastern extreme of Missana East of S.E. ^ E. Having passed the Rifleman Shoal, if the apex of Binan is not brought to the northward of W. by N., the dangers which extend about three-quarters of a mile from the North side of the Missana will be avoided. Standing to the eastward. Little Loban should not be approached nearer than half a mile ; and, after passing it, Sau lighthouse in line with its West extreme will clear the West side of Isabella Bank. The southern part of the bank will be avoided by not bringing Terkolei lighthouse East of E. ^ N. Between the Isabella Shoal and Pankel, a vessel may stand well over into depths of 8 or 9 fathoms ; but, in order to avoid the Sore Reefs, do not bring Terkolei lighthouse to the westward of N. by W., or the North end of Pankel to the southward of S.S.E. i E. Little Garras lighthouse open of the S.W. extreme of Pankel will lead clear of the shoal water extending N.N.W. from the North part of that island ; its West side may be approached to 8 or 7 fathoms ; shoal water extends from the S.W. extreme, close to which are 13 fathoms water ; it should not be closed nearer than half a mile. The apex of Loban open of the West extreme of Pankel, will lead clear of the Dutch Shoal, and of the shoal bank of soundings south-eastward of Pankel ; this mark will also lead to the westward of the shoal water (4 to 5 fathoms), which extends nearly 2J miles southward of the Topies, and which will bo cleared to the southward by keeping Siolon Hill open of S.W. Hill. Tho 334 VAEELLA AND DUEIAN STEAITS, ETC. shoal bank, just mentioned, is not dangerous to small vessels which may stand nearer to the Topies ; but in order to avoid Rotterdam Reef, the S.W. ex- treme of Pankel must be kept North of N.W. ^ W. To the southward of the Topies, Alligator Island may be approached to half a mile, and a vessel may stand on well into the channel between Siolon and Talang, but must not bring S.W. Hill to the West of W. f N., on account of Thomas Shoal. There are many shoal patches between Talang and Pulo Gin, but they all (except the Hendnk Jan Rock, awash at low- water), lie out of the track of ships. The S.E. side of Talang should be given a berth of at least 2 miles in passing, keeping South-west Hill well open of Talang, until Pulo Terobi bears E. by N. 3.— VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. In the height of the N.E. monsoon, in December and January, when strong northerly winds prevail, it blows much more freely in the open por- tion of the China Sea, to the eastward of Linga and Bintang, than it does in the straits they form with the coast of Sumatra. Mr. Stanton, therefore, recommends the Varella and Durian Straits for a sailing ship going north- wards at this season, as by avoiding the heavy sea, and southerly current, •which sometimes runs at the rate of 3 knots an hour, they will save much time, and have smooth water, good anchorage, and will also be greatly assisted by the squalls from the Sumatra coast. The straits have not been completely surveyed. Lieutenant Melvill Van Carnbee drew up a chart in 1843, to which Mr. Stanton, R.N., made con- siderable additions in 1860 — 1, and further corrections have since been made, but still the chart and directions must not be considered as perfect, and the mariner is therefore cautioned not to place too much reliance on them. The COAST of SUMATRA from Batakarang Point (the N.W. limit of the Strait of Banka, described on page 198), trends about N.N.W. towards Ja- boeng Point, sometimes known as Cape Bon, in about lat. 0° 58' S. The entire coast, which is very low, covered with wood, and entirely unknown, is fronted by a mud-bank, that may be approached to 6 or 5 fathoms water, except off Jaboeng Point, close to which there are in some places 9 fathoms, but all vessels should keep 3 miles from it. A bank of 4 fathoms was found by H.M. surveying vessel Saracen, in 1861, with Jaboeng Point bearing N.W. by W., distant 9 miles ; a depth of 6 fathoms also nearer the shore. This is probably a projecting horn or spit extending from the mud flat, and as shoal er soundings may be found, vessels bound to Varella Strait should keep 5 miles off shore until Jaboeng Point bears West. TAN JONG JABOENG, or Cape Bon, in lat. 0° 58' S., long. 104'' 22' E., VARELLA, OR BRAHALLA. 335 is the south-eastern limit of the Inner Route. Like most other parts of the East coast of Sumatra, it is low land, and has a shoal-water bank extending more than a mile from it. VARELLA, or Brahalla, is a small island, 450 ft. high, which gives its name to the strait, and has a hill on its western part, which may be seen 20 miles off. It lies in the middle of Varella Strait, and bears from Tanjong Jaboeng, N. by E. J E., nearly 9^ miles, and from Pulo Taya, W. by S. 30 miles. There are some islets and rocks near Varella, the largest of which, Anak Varella, lies about a mile north-eastward of it ; and a mile North from it lies a rock, with 17 fathoms close to it. There is anchorage on the S.W. side of Varella, and water may be pro- cured ; but this only ought to be done in case of necessity, as the lurking piratical proas have been known to assault and massacre the crews of boats sent on shore to procure water at this island. The ship Hercules was attacked by seventeen large proas near this place, and narrowly escaped being taken by them.* Kunst Shoal. — Capt. G. Kunst, of the Dutch barque Louisa Kroon Prinses of Sweden, reports having seen a shoal, with but 12 ft. water over it, from which Varella Island bore W.N.W., distant 3 miles. Middle Rocks lie 4|- miles N.E. by N. from Varella, or nearly midway between the latter and the islets which front the South end of Sinkep Island. Rocks extend halfway across from Varella to the Middle Rocks. Pollux Rock, with only 4 ft. water over it, lies nearly 2 miles N.E. of the Middle Rocks, and from it the nearest of the islets southward of Sinkep bears N. by W. 3^ miles, and Anak Varella Islet S.W. J S., nearly 5^ miles. The channel southward of Varella Island is wider and more free from danger than the channel northward of it, and is consequently much more frequented. The shoal bank fronting Tanjong Jaboeng projects about 8 or 9 miles north-westward from it, forming a sort of elbow, to avoid which it will be necessary to keep Tanjong Jaboeng to the South of S.E. ^ S., until Varella Island is East of E.N.E. The channel to the northward, between * Although piracy has very much decreased in these seas since Horsburgh's time, and, as a general rule, but little danger need now be apprehended from piratical fleets, yet Llanun pirate proas have been known to pass through Banka Strait within the last few years. It is still, in fact, very necessary indeed for merchant vessels which have occasion to fill up water in out of the way places to be on their guard against surprise. Natives, not ordinarily pirates, frequently become such if a good opportunity present itself, and mer- chant vessels offer such rich prizes, that the natives of almost any part of the Eastern Seas would very likely be tempted to attack them, if they saw a favourable opportunity for doing so successfully, when many of the crew were away from the ship watering,— J. \V. lUed, Master R.X., 1864. 336 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. Varella and the small islands contiguous to the S.E. end of Sinkep is encum- bered with the dangers just mentioned. SINKEP, the easternmost of the three islands forming the North side of Varella Strait, is about 17 or 18 miles in extent, and of very irregular shape, projecting to a point on its East side, another on its S.E. side, and a third oa its South side. Between these points are rather large bays, the most southern one, Baru Bay, being 3 miles deep. On the eastern side of the island is a range of hills, with a peak 1,440 ft. high near the centre of the range. There is a hill over Boekoe, or Buku Point, and 4 miles to the northward of it, on the West coast of the island, is a sharp peak of moderate elevation. From Boekoe Point the coast line takes a north-westerly direction for 14 miles to Sahoyoro Strait, which separates Sinkep from the island next west- ward of it. Rocks above and below water front the whole S.W. coast of Sinkep, to the distance of a mile. Rawa is the outer of two islands westward of Sinkep, their S.W. coast line following the same N.W. direction as that of Sinkep, the whole distance from Boekoe Point to the N.W. extreme of Rawa being 23 miles. The islands are separated by a channel so narrow that they appear as one. Shoal water extends 2 miles from the S.E. point of the eastern island. Sinkep Laut is the outermost of four or five small islets lying about 2|- miles off the S.E. point of Sinkep. Seera, or Reef Island, is small, 160 ft. high, and lies E. f N. 6| miles from Boekoe Point, and N.W. J N. 14 miles from Tarella Island. It is a flat, low island, sometimes mistaken for Varella when coming from the northward. A reef surrounds the island, and extends more than a mile from its East end, and more than 2 miles from its N.W. end. At 4 miles W. by N. | N. from Seera is a patch, having 4 fathoms least water over it. Anah Seera are rocky islets, lying about 2f miles N. by E. from Seera, with a safe channel between them and the latter island, and also (with the exception of the 4J-fathom patch 2 miles eastward of them) between them and the coast of Sinkep. A bank with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it extends from them about 2 miles in a north-westerly direction. Speke Rock, on which a ship of this name struck, lies W. by N. \ N., 9 miles from Seera Island, and S.E. 5^ miles from the southern Alang-Tiga Island. It is of small size, and a portion of it uncovers at two-thirds ebb, showing as a small black rock about the size of a boat. Close-to are 10 fathoms water. Boekoe Point kept open to the southward of Seera Island, E. i S., leads to the southward, and the southern Alang-Tiga Island bearing N.W. by N. leads to the westward. Atkin Rock, on which the brigantine Bob Tail Nag, Capt. Atkin, struck in May, 1863, is a pinnacle which uncovers at two-thirds ebb. The marks for the rock are, the West extreme of the North Alang-Tiga Island, just shut iu JAMRI OR JAMBIE RIVER. 337 by the East extreme of the Middle Island, and the South extreme of the Southern Island, bearing N.W. by W. | W., distant three-quarters of a mile. Alang-Tiga Islands, bearing N.W. ^ W. 29 miles from Varella, are a group of five small islets, and some rocks above water. The three principal islands are high, and may be seen 24 or 25 miles, and the others 13 or 14 miles from the vessel's deck. Silensing, or Green Island, is an islet 119 ft. high, lying 2f miles north- westward of Rawa Island, being separated from it by a safe channel, with depths of 10 to 19 fathoms. Wright Island, or Boenta, is a small islet lying 1^ mile northward of Silenseng. Some rocks appear to extend about a quarter of a mile from it. JAMBI or JAMBIE RIVER.— From Tanjong Jaboeng (page 334), the coast of Sumatra trends in a westerly direction to Jambie Point, from whence it falls back to the south-westward, to the principal entrance of the Jambi Eiver, also named the River Nioer, or Kwala-nur. There are, however, be- tween this entrance and Tanjong Jaboeng, several other entrances, off the mouths of the two easternmost of which lies an island named Berba. The river is barred, and has a depth oi \\ fathom over the bar, and 4 to 8 fathoms inside. It is one of the principal rivers on this side of Sumatra, and a Dutch expedition under Lieut. Schouw Sautvoort was started in 1876 to explore in its neighbourhood. There are several towns and villages on the banks of the river, the principal of which is Simpang, about 20 miles, and Jamlie, about 50 miles from the entrance. This part of Sumatra is undei the Dutch, who have a station and fort at Moeara Kompeh, a town 5 miles above Simpang. For 30 miles inland the country is a wooded marsh. Coal. — A fine seam of coal was (in 1860) discovered near the Sultan's house at Jambie. It is said to be 12 ft. thick, close to the river, and at some distance below the surface, quite equal to English Newcastle coal. BASSO, or Bakauw Point, in lat. 0° 20' S., long. 103° 47f E.,istheS.E. extreme of Basso Island, which projects in the form of a peninsula from the main coast of Sumatra in an E.N.E. direction about 13 or 14 miles, its breadth being about 5 or 6 miles. It bears N.W., and is distant about 52 J miles from Tanjong Jaboeng, the coast line between falling back into a large bight, 33 or 34 miles deep, the main entrance to the Jambie River, just de- scribed, being situated at its head. The eastern face of Basso Island should not be approached nearer than about 2 miles, as a shoal, steep-to, projects nearly a mile from it. AMPHITRITE BAY and INDRAGIRIE RIVER.— Amphitrite Bay is a large bight about 16 miles deep, formed between the N.E. extreme of Basso Island and Baroe, or Dato Point, 15 miles to the northward. The bay is nearly filled by a shoal, which extends several miles from either shore. It projects in a N. by W. direction (Horsburg says N- by E.) for 5 or 6 miles I. A. 2% 338 VARELLA AND DUEIAN STEATTS, ETC. from the South point of entrance, but it curves away more gradually from the North point, and between these projections is the deep-water portion of the bay, about 3 or 4 miles broad. The large River Indragirie discharges itself through several channels into Amphitrite Bay, and also into the bay between Tanjong Jaboeng and Basso Island. Caution. — The outer edge of the shoal extending from the points of en- trance to Amphitrite Bay, especially from the southern, is steep-to, having 1 or 1 1 fathoms within half a mile of it in some places, then quickly 5 or 4 fathoms, to 1^ or 1 fathom upon it, which requires great attention to the lead when approaching this part of the coast in the night. All this part of the coast of Sumatra is flat low land, thickly wooded with trees about 120 ft. high. From the low headland of Dato Point, the coast runs N. by W. and N.N.W. toward the Strait of Durian, and is fronted by a shoal bank from 2 to 6 miles off shore, which may be approached by the lead, as from 10 fathoms upon its edge the soundings gradually decrease to 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms. CHANNELS between SINKEP and LINGA ISLANDS.— PowoeJo Island, 5 or 6 miles long. East and West, 2 miles broad, and having a hill 955 ft, high near its centre, lies between Sinkep and Linga, dividing the passage between those islands into two channels, named Lima and Ponoebo Straits. Lima Strait, between Ponoebo and Linga, is narrow, much encumbered with islets and dangers, and does not, upon the chart, appear to be a very convenient channel for navigators unacquainted with it. Capt. McKenzie, however, says that it is safe and quicky passed through with the tide ; and that on its western side, just beyond the narrows, there is a small bay on the Linga shore, with good anchorage, wood, and water. Ponoebo Strait, between Sinkep and Ponoebo Islands, is, like Lima Strait, very narrow and encumbered with islets and dangers. It is said that a vessel of moderate draught may pass through it with safety. PXJLO SETJAWA lies close to the N.W. extreme of Linga, from which it is separated by a channel about half a mile broad. Upon the chart it is shown as a long narrow island, 14 or 15 miles long, and 3 miles broad, with hillocks on it from 200 to 300 ft. high ; but this island, together with many others near it, are very imperfectly known, not having been even roughly surveyed. Tiampa Island, separated from the western side of Setjawa by a channel about 1^ mile wide, is about 5 miles long N.W. and S.E., and about li mile broad. Boeova Island lies nearly 3 miles westward of the N.W. point of Tiampa, and in the channel separating them is a group of islets and rocks. Boeova is only 2 miles in extent, but it is a remarkable island, rising to a peak 888 ft. high. TEMIANff, EODONG, AND DUMPO STEAITS. 339 Bian is the easternmost, and Lohom the westernmost of a chain of islets fronting the South and S.W. sides of Boeova. The Leda Rock is the outer- most of a ridge of rocks which extend about 1^ mile in a N.W. by W. direc- tion from Loham. TEMIANG, RODONG, and DUMPO STRAITS.— To the northward of Boeva Island, the eastern side of the Inner Route is bounded by numerous islands, with deep channels between them. In order to avoid the difficulty and delay sometimes experienced in getting from the northern part of Durian Strait to Singapore Road, many sailing vessels have preferred to pass from the Inner Route by Abang Strait or Dumpo Strait into Rhio Strait. It seems probable that the best passages might be made in this way, for the great depth of water in the western part of Singapore Strait is often embarrassing in light winds. Temiang Island, which limits the Temiang Group to the noi-th-eastward, is 7 miles long, 3 miles broad, and much the largest of the islands. The island is mostly composed of high hills, and near the West end is some table land elevated 800 ft. Close off the N. W. end of Temiang is Pintoe, an island about 1^ mile long ; and otf the N.W. end of Pintoe is an island named Kebat. All the islands are fringed with reefs. Pompon Island lies S.W. by W., a little over 2 miles from Kebat ; it is rather more than half a mile in diameter, rising to a hill in the centre 433 ft. high. A rock, awash at high water, lies close oflP its N.W. point. Some detached rocks he N.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile from Pompon, and N.W. i N., the same distance from the N.W. islet of the Babie Group, which lie between Pitoe and Pompon Islands. Pompon Shoal, N. f E., 2J miles from Pompon Island, consists of three or four rocks several feet above water. A detached rock awash lies a quarter of a mile to the westward. Irene Rock, said to lie W. by N. ^ N., about 7 miles from Pompon Island, could not be found by the Rifleman, in 1869, in the course of a few hours' search'; but the examination was insufficient to disprove its ex- istence. Allor, a small round island, 139 ft. high, is surrounded by a reef and some islets. PANGALLAP ISLAND, 3 miles long N. by W. \ W. and S. by E. J E., is moderately elevated and fringed by a reef. The channel between Pan- gallap and the reef extending from Allor is 3 cables broad, and from 7 to 23 fathoms deep. Dedap lies to the westward of Pangallap. Off the S.E. end of Dedap are three small islets and a rock, the latter being distant a little over half a mile. A mile from the island, in the same direction, are two rocks awash ; 340 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STEAITS, ETC. from the outer one of these the South end of Pangjallap bears N.E. | E., and the South extreme of Allor E.S.E. The channel eastward of these, and between Dedap and Pangallap, appears to be free from danger, with the exception of a rock awash a short distance outside the edge of the reef frin;i;ing the latter island, and which bears E. by N. I N. from the North end of Dedap. A small islet lies close to the N.W. point of Dedap, and half a mile off in that direction lie two small islets, encircled at a short distance by a reef. These islets form the southern limit of Abang Strait Cdescribed farther on). Rodong Group (see page 314) lies to the westward of Niamok and Mis- sana. The three eastern islands, which form a sub-group, are known as the Desie Islands ; the two western ones, lying close together, as the Ma- dang Islands. The channel between Missana and the Eodong group is encumbered with many dangers, and should not be used. The Dua Islands, two rather low islands, lie W.N.W. 2^ miles from the Madangs. Two reefs lie 1^ mile north-westward of the Dua Islands. On the South end of the southern one is an islet, and on the N.E. extreme of the other is Tree Rock, a rock about 10 ft. above high water, with a tree upon it. A coral patch, with 3 fathoms water over it, and 11 to 14 fathoms around it, lies N.W. by W. \ W. nearly a mile from Tree Eock, the channel between them is safe. Tetampan Group, occupying a circular space about 4 miles in diameter, lies north-westward of the Eodong group ; it comprises numerous islands, islets and rocks, divided from each other by narrow, intricate channels, en- cumbered with many reefs and dangers. Tetampan, elevated 390 ft., the highest and most conspicuous of the islands, is situated near the S. W. part of the gi'oup ; Binan and Katarg Linga form its eastern and northern limits, and the Nopong Islands, with the adjacent islets and reefs, its north-western ones. TEMIANG STRAIT, leading from the China Sea to the Durian and the other straits adjacent, is about 14 miles long and 2 broad, its direction being N.W. by W. i W. and S.E. by E. | E. ; it is bounded to the southward by the northern islands of the Sebangka group, and by Temiang, Pintoe, and Kebat, and to the northward by Niamok, the Eodong group, Dua Islands, and Tree Eock Eeefs. A dangerous pinnacle rock awash, very difficult to make out, lies at the southern entrance of this strait, nearly 1 mile N.E. from a group of small islands south-eastward of Temiang. This danger may be passed on either side, the channel to the southward being three-quarters of a mile wide, but the best plan is to pass to the northward ; in doing so, however, be car,eful to avoid the shore reef, which projects half a mile to the southward of the East point of Desie, and also a rock awash, which lies more than 2 cables from the South point of the Madang Islands. RODONG AND ABANG STEAITS. 341 RODONG STRAIT, between the Eodong and Tetampan groups, is also navigable, but a rock awash, which lies N.N.E. \ E. more than 6 cables off the North point of Rodong, must be carefully avoided ; there are also two patches of reef, one lying a quarter of a mile south-eastward, and the other about double the distance south-westward, of the southern island of tho Tetampan group. Besides avoiding the first-mentioned danger, vessels, when working, should not stand within a line joining the northern extremes of Rodong and Missana Islands. The channel between the Tetampan group and Dua Island and Tree Rock Reefs is safe, taking care not to stand too close to the S.W. islands of the group between Tetampan and Little Nopong. PANGALLAP STRAIT is limited on the East by the Tetampan group and the Selanga Islands, and on the West by Allor, Pangallap, and Oedek (page 314). A bank, with from 5 to 10 fathoms water on it, lies in the fair- way of this strait, having on the northern end a rock awash, from which North Selanga Island bears E. i S. IJ mile, and the apex of Allor Island S.W. by S. 2^ miles ; near its opposite extreme is a 2^-fathom patch of hard sand, with the N.E. extreme of Pangallap bearing N.W. ^ N. 2h miles, and the apex of Allor Island S.W. f S. I5 mile. Vessels may pass betn-een or on either side of these dangers, but it is better to pass to the eastward of both of them. South of the N.E. point of Pangallap a hard mud hank, with 5 to 10 fathoms water over it, extends nearly a mile to the eastward, and the same distance to the southward ; and a bank of sand, nearly half as large, with about the same depth of water over it, extends to the eastward from Oedik ; elsewhere the soundings are very irregular, 13 to 28 fathoms. The strong tides near the springs, owing to the uneven nature of the bottom, cause violent whirls and overfalls, which are alarming to strangers ; but it seems only necessary to avoid the above described dangers to pass safely through the strait, as none besides those could be discovered, though carefully searched for. ABANG STRAIT. — Little Abang, about a mile in extent, lies 2 miles N.W. by N. from Dedap, with the Nio Islands, a group of islets and rocks surrounded by reefs, lying nearly a mile from its eastern side. Between Dedap and Little Abang is Abang Strait, narrowed to the breadth of a mile by two islets, which lie half a mile off the N.W. end of Dedap, and by the Sapientoe islets and rocks, the outer edge of which is three-quarters of a mile from the S.E. end of Little Abang. A short distance westward of the fair- way of the strait is a deep hole of 25 fathoms, with 15 fathoms round its edge. The depths near the islets are 7 fathoms, with 12 in mid-channel, increasing to 20 or 23 fathoms between the North point of Pangallap and the Nio Islets. Great Abang, twice the size of Little Abang, lies N.N.W. of it, and be- tween them is a channel with 3 to 9 fathoms, but it is narrow, being con- 342 VAEELLA AND DUKIAN STEAITS, ETC. tracted by an island near Great Abang and the reefs extending from both islands. A rock, with but 3 ft. water over it, lies W. i S. nearly a mile from the S.W. point of Little Abang, and S.E. | E. the same distance from the South point of Great Abang ; near it the depths are 4 to 9 fathoms. Close to the West side of Great Abang is Toriel Islet, and W. J S. H rni^e from this islet is Hippomenes Rock, a rock awash, with 7 to 13 fathoms around it. Cameleon Rock was examined in the Rifleman ; it is a small rock about a foot above high water, with 1 1 fathoms close to its West side, and some patches of 2^ and 3 fathoms from a quarter to half a mile northward and north-eastward of it. From the rock the apex of Potong bears N.N.W., distant nearly 6? miles, and the South point of Little Abang E. f N., distant about 7 miles. Potong, if not brought to the westward of North, will lead well clear to the westward of both the Irene and Cameleon Rocks. Potong' Island, lying 5 miles W.N.W. from Great Abang, has several hills upon it, one of which is 462 ft. high. The island is surrounded by numerous islets and rocks, which, off its S.E. side, extend three-quarters of a mile. Off the N.E. side the soundings are very irregular and somewhat shoal, 3^ fathoms being found at two-thirds, and '2\ fathoms at one-third of a mile from the shore. LTJMPO STRAIT, 7 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 3 miles broad, is bounded on the southward by Oedik Island and the eastern sides of the Abang group, and to the northward by Dumpo, the S.W. part of Gallang, and the islands Penjaboeng and Somoet, which lie off the West coast of Gallang. Shore reefs, not extending far from most of them, front the whole of these islands, but from the S.W. part of Gallang the reef projects a third, and from Semoet not quite a quarter of a mile. This strait affords easy and safe navigation, the fairway being perfectly free from danger, and the following rocks lie so near the shore that they may be easily avoided. Haai Shoal, a patch of 2 fathoms, lies a quarter of a mile S.S.E. from Duinpo ; a &-feet rock E.S.E. half a mile from the S.W. point of Gallang ; a rock above water, E. by S., a third of a mile from the North point of Great Abang ; and Penjahoeng Rock, S.W. | S., 4 cables from the North point of the island of that name. This last is the most dangerous, and will be avoided if the S.W. point of Gallang be kept open of the S.W. point of Penjaboeng, and the apex of Tafelberg, a table hill on Gallang Island, open of the N.W. end of Semoet. The soundings in the straits are very variable. We now commence the description of Durian Strait. THREE BROTHERS.— The South Brother, in lat. 0° 33' 20" N., long. 103° 46' E., is the largest and highest of the three islands lying at the South entrance of Durian Strait. It is about a mile in length North and South, and not quite half a mile in breadth ; the highest hill near the centre FALSE DUniAN. 343 of the island is 257 ft. high, and may be seen 17 or 18 miles. There is a ■white clifl' or rock on the N.E. side, which makes this island remarkable. The Middle Brother, only 135 ft. high, lies about 1^ mile northward from the North point of the South Brother. Between the South and Middle Brother there is a safe passage, about two-thirds of a mile wide, with soundings from 9 to 13 fathoms. The North Brother, sometimes called the Round Brother, is smaller and lower than the others, being but 87 ft. high. It lies N. by W. ^ W. 2i miles from the Middle Brother, and between them there is a safe passage, with 11 to 17 fathoms water, now frequently used. The Eastern Bank, which bounds the channel to the eastward of the Brothers, is composed of hard sand, having irregular depths on it from 1 to 6 fathoms, with 10 and 12 fathoms close to its western edge. A number of low mangrove islands extend from about 2^ miles northward of the Sumatra coast, to a distance of 8 or 9 miles in that direction from it. The south- easiernmost of the group is a very small islet, known as South Island, 90 ft. high, and surrounded by rocks. The north-easternmost one, named Long Island, which lies about 6 miles westward of the South and Middle Brothers, is 1^ mile long, North and South ; and 1^ mile north-westward of it is a higher island, named Saddle. A patch, having only 2 fathoms water over it, lies with the northern ex- treme of Long Island, bearing W. ^ S., Saddle Island W. f N., and the peak of False Durian N.N.W. I W. About a mile north-eastward uf the 2-fathom patch is another shoal, with 3 fathoms water over it, and 4 or 5 fathoms around it, discovered in 1861 by Mr. Stanton, commanding H.M.S. Saracen. It is about a third of a mile in extent, composed of sand and shells, and lies three-quarters of a mile South from Hooky Islet, off the eastern extreme of False Durian. All these dangers will be avoided by keeping South Passage Island, or the West end of Little Durian, open eastward of the rocky islet lying oif the eastern extreme of False Durian ; or by not bringing the latter to the north- ward of N.N.W. until nearly abreast of it, when it may be approached to 2 cables' lengths. FALSE DURIAN, or Pulo Duri, is a very irregular shaped island, about 2^ miles in extent, and with the contiguous islands, forms tlie south-western limit of Durian Strait. Near its N.W. end is a peak 604 feet high, which bears West distant 5 miles from the North Brother. Three or four small islands lie close to the S.E. point of False Durian, the outermost one of which, named Eocky Islet, is very small. A group of islets and rocks, called Eocky Islands, lie off the N.W. point. As the islands hereabout have a similar appearance, strangers when coming from the southward ought to be careful not to mistake one for the other, for some ships have not been able to discern the proper passage. The 314 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. peak of Great Durian being higher than the peak of False Durian, or indeed of any other land, is first discerned in coming from the southward. Richardson Shoal. — This dangerous coral rock, on which the ship Hurry Pnddemsey, Capt. Richai'dson, struck in May, 1863, has lately been examined by H.M. surveying vessel Bifeman. It is about 200 yards in extent, has 2f fathoms on it, and 7 to 10 fathoms around it, and between it and the East side of False Durian Island, at low-water springs. From the rock the peak of False Durian bears W. by N., distant 2| miles ; Rocky Islet S. | E. three- quarters of a mile j North Brother, E. ^ N., 2| miles ; and Middle Brother IS.E. by E., 4 miles. To avoid this rock, do not bring Rocky Islet South of S. by W., until the peak of False Durian bears West. GREAT DURIAN, or Pulo Sanglar, about 4 miles N.N.W. of the North Brother, is a larger island than False Durian, being '6^ miles in extent, with a peak near its centre 965 feet high. This peak, as remarked above, is the highest land hereabouts, and is consequently visible at the greatest distance. The Tombs is the name given to some islets and reefs, extending about three-quarters of a mile from the southern part of Great Durian. A small reef of coral lies about half a mile south-westward of the Tombs, and about a mile S.E. by S, from the S.W. point of Great Durian. Little Durian, 590 ft. high, and about half the size of Great Durian, lies off the N.W. extreme of the latter island, from which it is separated by a channel, only a quarter of a mile wide. South Passage Island, 204 ft. high, and about half a mile in extent, North and South, lies three-quarters of a mile from the S.W. coast of Little Durian. It is surrounded by rocks lying close to the shore. North Passage Island, 156 ft. high, is about half the size of South Passage Island, from which it bears N.N.W. f W. 2^ miles. PRINCES ISLAND, lying W. by S. f S. 2f miles from North Passage Island, on the western side of Durian Strait, is a coral formation not much above high water. It is covered with trees, and their heigM being about 100 ft., the island has a round and conspicuous appearance. SOUTHERN ENTRANCES of DURIAN STRAIT.— Durian Strait may be entered on either side of the Three Brothers. When the peak of Great Durian is seen bearing N. by W., a ship will be in the fair track for entering the strait by either channel, and should steer for the South Brother, which, in one with Great Durian peak, bears N.N.W., nearly. The channel eastward of the Three Brothers, between them and the Eastern Bank, and between the North Brother and the South shore of Great Durian, is about 4 miles wide, having various depths, from 15 to 10 fathoms. The channel westward of the Brothers, between them and False Durian, is 3 miles wide, and has from 8 to 14 fathoms water, but near the North Brother 24 fathoms. Both channels are equally safe. MUEO ISLAND— THE TWINS. 345 The Strait of Sang-lar, to the northward of Great and Little Durian, may also be considered one of the southern entrances to Durian Strait, although it is but imperfectly surveyed, and does not offer any advantages to induce a vessel to proceed through it, but on the contrary is very inferior to either of the other channels. Monkey Islands, three in number, lie from IJ to li mile northward of Little Durian. Two rocks, or patches of reef, lie off the N. W. point of the •westernmost Monkey Island, and a 4-fathom patch midway between the West end of Little Durian and the western Monkey Island. MTJRO ISLAND is long, narrow, but high, and forms the eastern side of the middle part of Durian Strait. It extends from about 1 J mile northward of Great Durian in a N.AV. by N. direction for b\ miles. On its East side, between it and Suji Island, is the Strait of Muro. The West side of Muro is but imperfectly known. Dolphin Island, 153 ft. high, lies about a third of a mile off the N.W. end of Muro Island. A rock lies a third of a mile N.N.W. from the North extreme of Dolphin Island. A reef, of an oval form, 2 cables in extent, steep-to all around, and dry at low-water springs, lies a mile westward of the southern part of Dolphin Island. Bolombo Island is high, about 3 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and half a mile broad. Its southern end is about a mile E. ^ N. from the North end of Muro, and its North end is about three-quarters of a mile from the Twins. Its North end is fronted by a reef to a distance of nearly half a mile, having a white rock within its margin, off the N.W. point of the island. Red Island, or Pulo Goomeata, lying nearly 2 miles N.W. of Dolphin Island, is of triangular shape, about half a mile in extent, and covered with trees. Its height is 256 ft., and it may be seen 15 miles off. The passage between Eed Island and Dolphin Island ought not to be attempted, for nearly in mid-channel lie two dangerous rocks, one awash at low water spring tides, and the soundings near being irregular, afford no guide. A rockt/ patch, dry at low water, lies rather more than half a mile W. by S. from the S.W. end of Red Island, with deep water all round, and between it and the island. Nearly half a mile northward of Eed Island is a small rocky islet with a tree on it, surrounded by rocks, dry at low water. The Twins, or Fulo Mentegas are two small round islands, lying a little more than a mile north-eastward of Eed Island. They bear N.N.W. and S.S.E. of each other, and are 152 ft. high. Distant three-quarters of a mile north-westward of the North Twin is the North end of a dangerous and exten- sive coral reef , dry at low-water spring tides, having from 10 to 17 fathoms all round. The Western Shore of Durian Strait, from False Durian to the Carimons, 1. A. 2 Y 346 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. is formed of numerous low islands, covered with trees, the principal of which is Sabon. This land is generally known as the Sabon shore, for the islands forming it are separated from Sabon and from each other only by very nar- row channels, and therefore appear as one continuous island. Pulo Panjang, a large, low, flat island, lies northward of Saddle, and westward of False Durian ; off its North coast is a small islet named Round Island. Pulo Torreatep, the next island named on the chart, is the largest and easternmost of a group of several islands, and bears N. W. by W. ^ W., 5 miles from the N.W. point of False Durian ; about a third ot a mile from its East side is a patch with 4 fathoms water on it. Two miles N.N.W. f W. from Terreatep, is what appears to be rather a conspicuous island. The channel between this island and Princes Island has not been sounded. SABON ISLAND, or Pulo Pappan, is the largest island on the western shore of Durian Strait. Its North point reaches to within 3 miles of the southern part of the Great Carimon, and off its N.E. coast lie the islands of Buru, Paril, and Pandan. Beep-water Point, the most eastern point of Sabon, lies 2f miles N. W. from Princes Island. There is another point 2^ miles westward of Princes Island, the coast between forming a bay, fronting which is a reef with some trees upon it, from the outer part of which Deep-water point bears N.N.W. ^ W., distant three-quarters of a mile. To avoid this danger, be careful to keep the peak of False Durian open eastward of Princes Island. From Deep-water Point the Sabon coast trends N.W. by W., and lying close off it are four islands, the north-westernmost of which is the largest. Middleburgh Shoal, lying nearly midway between Red Island and the bank extending from Sabon Island, is a reef of coral rocks, 300 yards in extent, of circular form, partly dry, about 1 foot above the sea at low-water spring tides, its sides being almost perpendicular, with 7 and 9 fathoms close to the rocks, and 17 to 20 fathoms about 200 yards off. When on the centre of the shoal, the Passage Islands were in one, their East extremes bearing S.E. by S. ; the rocky islet, with a tree on it, off the North end of Red Island, nearly on with the North brow of the North Twin ; the Twins open to the northward of Red Island ; the South end of Red Island, E. by N. i N. ; Sabon Hill, W. by N. i N. ; Clay Island, W. i N. ; peak of Great Durian, S.E. i E., and the peak of False Durian, S.S.E. J E. Passage eastward of Middleburgh Shoal. — The passage between Middleburgh Shoal and the bank extending from the Sabon shore is about If mile wide, with soundings deepening from 6 or 7 fathoms near the bank to 14 and 16 and 20 fathoms near the shoal. PULO BURU is a low island, 4^ miles in length N.N.W. and S.S.E., crowned with high trees, and having a few inhabitants, who collect great quantities of mangosteins, durians, and other fruits, which flourish here in a wild and luxuriant state. It is the next largest island to Sabon, and its GEEAT AND LITTLE CARIMON ISLANDS. 347 S.E. part bears N.N.AV. nearly 5 miles from Deep-water Point. Off its South end is a small islet, named Clay Island, covered with straggling trees and surrounded by rocks. The eastern shore of Pulo Bum is fronted by a shoal-water bank to a distance of from 1 to 1^ mile, and rocks partly dry at half tide nearly to the same distance, with Sabon Hill, or Gunong Pappan bearing from W. J N. to West. These dangers may be avoided by keeping Deep-water Point South of S. I E. Sabon Hill cannot be easily mistaken, being the only hill on the western side of the channel to the southward of Great Carimon, which island has on it two high peaks or hills, and the Little Carimon one, as seen from the southward, but has really two high peaks on it also. Pulo Pandan, the southern of two small islands lying about a mile north- ward of Pulo Buru, is low, and covered with trees about 100 ft. high. Pulo Paril is a much larger island than Pandan, lying to the westward of it, and close to the northern part of Sabon. Close to the eastward of Deep-water Point the depth is 9 fathoms, and 5 fathoms close to the northern extreme of the point ; but from thence a shal- low bank extends, with a slight curve iuto the bight between Deep-water Point and Pulo Buru, as far as Pulo Pandan. Deep-water Point bearing S. t E. will lead a mile clear of the edge of this bank. GREAT CARIMON ISLAND, which divides the Straits of Malacca, Durian, and Singapore, has been described on page 136, ante. It is 10 or 11 miles in length in a N.N.W. direction, and near its North end are two high and conspicuous peaked hills, the northern one 1,376 feet, and the southern one 1,474 ft. high ; the rest of the island consists of low level land. Its southern part is separated from Sabon Island by the Strait of Clam, 2^ miles wide. LITTLE CARIMON (see p. 136) is a high, bold island, 2^ miles in length N.W. and S.E., and rising to two peaks, covered with trees, the northern one being 1,067 ft., and the southern one 1,026 ft. high. Sand Banks. — A patch of 5 fathoms lies E. i S. 1| mile from Pulo Pan- dan ; and there are two other patches of 4 fathoms off the same island, one bearing E. by N. nearly 2 miles, and the other about N.E. J N. the same distance from it. These patches seem to be the tail of a bank of sand lying about 2 miles off the S.E. coast of Great Carimon, and which nearly joins another bank extending S.E. from the Little Carimon. Pulo Pandan bear- ing South will lead to the eastward of the 2j-fathom patch on the southern bank ; and the peaks of Little Carimon in line about N.W. will lead close to the edge of the northern bank in 5 or 4j fathoms. A white Herbert's buoy is said to lie oflF the reef extending from the S.W. point of Carimon Island. Tides.— Throughout Varella and Durian Straits the tides are very irregu- lai-, rendering it difficult to ascertain either their direction or velocity. In 348 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. August and September the rise and fall was found generally to be between 10 and 11 ft., sometimes running from 3 to 4 knots per hour during the springs, at other times not more than 2| knots at the same period. This irregularity appears to be produced by the prevailing winds in the North or South entrance of the straits, forcing the tides through in one direction for 1 2 or 1 8 hours at a time, although the rise and fall on the shore was regular. But sometimes the tides run with regularity. At Eed Island, in the northern part of Durian Strait, it is high water, full and change, at 10'', and the tide rises 10 or 11 ft. The ripplings might be alarming to a stranger ; they appear to be caused by the uneven bottom, and the resistance the tides meet with from the steep reefs and numerous small islands. PHILLIP CHANNEL, or the north-eastern entrance to Durian Strait, is formed between the numerous islands fronting Battam and Boelang Islands to the south-eastward, and Long and Round Islands to the north-westward. It appears to be free from danger, with good anchorage, and is a short route for vessels proceeding to or from Singapore. SUJI, JOMBOL, BOELANG, and BATTAM, are four islands lying to the north-eastward of Muro and Bolombo Islands. The two former are about 10 miles long in a N.W. and opposite direction; the two latter are much larger, Boelang being about 15 miles long, in the same direction, and 7 miles broad, and Battam 15 or 16 miles in an East and West direction, and 13 or 14 miles North and South. The northern parts of Boelang and Battam form part of the southern side of Singapore Strait. Numerous small islands, islets, and rocks lie off the shores of and in the channels between the above-named large islands, the whole of which are known under the general name of the Boelang Archipelago, but in the pre- sent state of our knowledge, no vessel should venture among them, and it is therefore only the outermost islands and dangers which concern the ordinary navigator, and those will be next described, after the following brief ob- servations on the channels between the large islands. Muro, Suji, Jombol, and Batu Hadji Straits are the names of the channels separating these large islands. Muro Strait is bounded on the West by G-reat Durian, Muro, and Bolombo Islands, and on the East by the eastern bank and Suji Island. There are many islands and rocks in it, and it has been but imperfectly surveyed. It is, however, navigable with proper care; and in 1860 an electric telegraph cable between Singapore and Batavia was laid through it from a large steamer piloted by a Dutch steam frigate. Suji Strait, between Suji and Jombol, is very imperfectly known, but it is certainly encumbered at both ends with many dangers. Jombol Strait, between Jombol and Boelang, is also encumbered with many dangers, although apparently not to so great an extent as Suji ; it is PULO DONCAN. 349 but imperfectly known ; and at present, like the rest of the straits, is not available for general navigation. Batu Hadji Strait, between Boelang and Battam, is very narrow, in some places not a quarter of a mile broad. A running survey was made of this strait several years ago by Mr. L. C. Bailey, Master E.N., and it is said to be available for vessels, but we cannot give any directions for it. A short time since it was urged upon the attention of nautical men at Singapore as being a route by which vessels could be speedily towed from Singapore Eoads to sea in the N.E. monsoons ; but it will have to be properly surveyed before it can be used for such a purpose. PULO DONCAN, lying N.E. f N., distant 6^- miles from the Twins (page 245), is the larger of two low wooded islands, fronting the North entrance of the Strait of Jombol, which is formed by a group of beautiful islands, some of which are inhabited. Pulo Doncan is surrounded by reefs to a distance of a mile, and between E.N.E. and E.S.E. to 2 miles off. Cap Island, so named from its appearance, bearing N. J W. 4 miles from Pulo Doncan, is a rock about 40 ft. in height, with a flat top and perpendi- cular sides, surrounded by a reef to the distance of about 300 yards. It would be imprudent to pass to the eastward of Cap Island, between it and Steep Cape, as a reef of rocks lies 1 mile off Steep Cape, and it is quite possible that others may exist, for the chart has very few soundings in this locality. Round Island, or Tahong Ketchil, is a small but elevated islet, lying i^ miles northward of Cap Island, 2f miles W. by S. ^ S. from Helen Mara Reef, and 3|^ miles S.S.W., southerly, from Raffles lighthouse. It is the south-easternmost of a chain of islands and reefs which extend from it in a north-westerly direction for about 5 J miles. Long Island, or Tahong Besar, 115 ft. high, and lying nearly half a mile N.N.W. of Round Island, is similarly surrounded by reefs, and a small islet lies close to its North shore. Long Island and Round Island are also known as the Brothers : both are covered with trees. Red Island, or Pulo Patampong, is a mere islet or rock, 20 ft. high, covered with trees, with a beach of red sand, lying two-thirds of a mile to the N W. of Long Island. Three detached reefs lie in a south-westerly direction from Red Island, the outer and largest one being distant nearly \^ mile from it. Raffles light- house on Coney Island, in line with the N. W. extreme of Long Island, leads to the eastward of them ; Round Island bearing E. by N. leads to the south- ward ; and the northern Tree Island, open westward of the southern one, bearing N.N.W., leads to the westward. Tree Islands, or Pulo Angup, two small islets, or rather clumps of trees, are the outermost of the islands and dangers which extend north-westward from Round Island, and limit the southern side of the western entrance of 350 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. Singapore Strait. In passing northward of Tree Island, the Raffles light- house (or light) should not be brought to the northward of East, nor the reef neared under a depth of 1 4 fathoms, which will keep a vessel half a mile northward of its northern edge. Kent Rocks lie between Red Island and Tree Island Reef, N.W. |-N. and S.E. f S, from each other, and not quite half a mile apart. Eromthe south- ern rock, which is the larger of the two, and has 1 i fathom over it at low water springs, the North end of Long Island is on with the centre of Red Island, S.E. by E., and Raffles Hghthouse bears E. by N. J N. From the northern rock, which is about 30 or 40 ft. in circuit, with not more than 3 ft. water on it, the southern Tree Island bears W. f S. (or W. J N.), distant a mile, and Raffles lighthouse E. by N. I N., 4 miles. HELEN MARS REEF is the outermost of some dangerous reefs, which, together with several small islets, lie off the N.W. point of Boelang. From this reef Round Island bears W. by S. f S., distant Sf miles, and Raffles lighthouse is just inside the left extreme of Barn and Alligator Islands N.W. i W., nearly. A short distance from it are 14 and 15 fathoms. The North peak of Great Carimon in line with Red Island, leads close to the northward of this dangerous shoal ; Red Island, bearing W. f 8., will lead well clear to the northward ; and Steep Cape, the bold headland inside Cap Island, if kept to the southward of S. ^ W., will lead to the westward. The Helen Mars Reef lies at the point where Phillip Channel joins the main channel of Singapore Strait, which at this part is bounded on the North side by Coney Island, on which stands Raffles lighthouse, and the islands adjacent to it ; and on the South side by the Helen Mars and adjacent reefs and islands. Long Island, Red Island, Kent Rocks, and Tree Islands, with its surrounding reef. The description of the Rabbit and Coney, with Raffles lighthouse, and the western part of Singapore Strait, is given hereafter. Directions Northward. — Departing from Bmiha Strait, and being abreast of Batakarang Point in 7 fathoms, if bound to Varella Strait, a N.N.W. course will lead towards Varella or Brahalla Island, distant about 78 miles. The bank along the Sumatra coast in this space being very flat, the soundings are usually the best guide, and the rule is to keep in from 5^ to 7 fathoms. Recollect, however, that at 9 miles S.E. by E. from Tanjong Jaboeng the bank projects a sort of spit or horn, having only 4 fathoms water over it, and 6 fathoms between its northern part and the shore. The tides near the shore are generally strong ; in the offing they are irre- gular, and currents sometimes prevail. In passing through the South channel, between Varella Island and Tan- jong Jaboeng, keep in 10 or 12 fathoms towards Varella to give a berth to the bank of hard ground projecting from Tanjong Jaboeng ; from thence, ■working along the coast to the westward. DIBECTIONS. 351 Standing towards Varella, remember the shoal with only 2 fathoms water over it, reported to lie E.S.E., 3 miles from that island (page 335). Being through the narrow part of the passage between Tanjong Jaboeng and Varella, which is about 6^ miles wide, a N.W. by W. course should be steered towards the Alang Tiga Islands, keeping along the coast in soundings of 9 to 12 fathoms, and carefully avoid the Spake Rock (page 336). In this track attention to the tides is indispensable, for they are often irregular, some- times setting out of the Jambie River to the north-eastward 2^ or 3 miles per hour. Having passed the Alang Tiga at about 2 miles, a course about N. by W. should be steered for the southernmost of the Three Brothers, bearing from the Alang Tiga N. by W. i W., distant 63 miles. In working, be careful not to stand nearer to Basso Island or Dato Point than 2 miles, and also avoid being tempted to stretch into Amphitrite Bay, for the banks off the former, and the shoals in the latter, are steep-to, and the lead cannot be depended upon to give warning in sufficient time. To enter Durian Strait by the eastern channel, a berth of 1 or 2 miles may be given to the South and Middle Brothers, by passing them in 10 or 12 fa- thoms ; and on nearing the North Brother, give a prudent berth to the reef that projects from it to the south-eastward, taking care also not to stand too far over towards the eastern bank. When the southern point of Great Durian is approached, the three islets near it, called the Tombs, will be discerned, and Sabon Hill, bearing about W. by N. | N., making like two islands, which may be mistaken for the Carimons. Having passed the North Brother, at 1^ or 2 miles distance, haul to the westward, giving a berth of about 1^ mile to the southern part of Durian, to avoid the sunken rocka rather more than half a mile south-westward of the Tombs. To enter Durian Strait by the western channel, when near the South Brother, steer to the westward of it at IJ mile distance, and proceed to the northward in 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms, about mid-channel between the other Brothers and the eastern part of False Durian, to avoid the foul ground surrounding the Brothers, and the shoal patches which lie to the southward of the rocky islet contiguous to the East end of False Durian (see page 343). Take care, however, when standing towards False Durian, not to bring rocky islet to the southward of S. by W. until the peak of False Durian bears West, to avoid Richardson Rock. Having cleared the Brothers by either of the channels, the Passage Islands will be seen to the north-westward on the East side of the channel ; and on the West side, opposite North Paasage Island, is a flat island called Princes. There is a channel between the Passage Inlands and Little Durian, but it is not frequented, as it is not so convenient as the former ; but in a case of ne- cessity a ship may sail between any of these islands,' giving them a berth of 1 mile, as off their points there is generally rocky and foul ground. 352 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. After leaving the Brothers, steer for the Passage Islands ; in mid-channel the depths will be generally from 17 to 26 fathoms. When they are ap- proached, Eed Island, about 6 miles N. ^ W. from North Passage Island, will be discerned ; it may be known by two islets to the north-eastward of it, called the Twins. With care, the passage is safe in daylight, between Middleburgh Shoal and Eed Island ; but as a reef, dry at low water, lies W. by S. more than half a mile from the latter, and the depths being from 17 to 26 fathoms, with some overfalls, the channel to the westward is preferable. There is also a passage close to the eastward of Red Island ; but as its eastern side is bounded by the rocks lying about a mile N.W. of the Twins, and by others about three-quarters of a mile E.S.E. of Red Island, it ought not to be attempted by a stranger. The channel eastward of Middleburgh Shoal, between it and the reef lying W. by S. from Red Island, requires care ; the best track is about mid-channel in 19 to 16 fathoms, mud. The peak of Great Durian bearing S.E. a little southerly, or East point of North Passage Island in line with the peak of False Durian, bearing S.S.E., will lead mid-channel between the patch off Red Island and Middleburgh Shoal. In working, do not bring the peak of False Durian above a ship's length open westward of North Passage Island, nor stand nearer, to the reef off Red Island, than to bring that peak nearly on with South Passage Island. The tides are very strong between Middleburgh Shoal and Red Island, the flood setting to the southward, and the ebb to the northward, from 3 to 4 knots on the springs. The Channel tvestioard of the Middlehurgh Shoal is preferable, being about 2;^ miles wide, with mostly regular soundings from 16 and 17 fathoms close to the shoal. When clear of North Passage Island, haul to the westward for the Sabon shore, then steer about N.N.W. along it, in 7 fathoms, which will lead in the fair track between that shore and Middleburgh Shoal. When Red Island bears East, or E. by S., edge out a little, about N. by W. or North, and deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms ; continuing to keep in these depths, steer to the northward, taking care to give a good berth to the South end of Great Carimon, to avoid the bank of 2J, 3, and 3^ fathoms, sand and mud, which projects 3 miles from the South point of that island. When abreast of this point, the distance of 4 or 5 miles should be preserved from the East side of Great Carimon, and the Little Carimon may be rounded at any con- venient distance, if bound to the northward. In working, do not deepen towards Middleburgh Shoal to above 8J fa- thoms, as there are 9 fathoms very near its eastern edge ; but the Sabon shore may be approached to 5-J-, or to 5, or 4 J fathoms, in a small ship. To pass through Phillip Channel. — If bound to Singapore, having passed between Middleburgh Shoal and the Sabon shore, and brought Red Island to bear East or E. by S., a course about N.E. by N. may be steered guard- DIRECTIONS. 353 ing against tide, to pass through Phillip Channel to the westward of Doncaa Island and between Cap Island and Round Island, neither of which should be approached nearer than three-quarters of a mile, on account of the reefs which project from them. In this route take care that the vessel is not set too near the dangers which lie at the entrances and near the points of the Straits of Muro, Suji, and Jombol, for the tide rushes through them with a velocity of 8 or 4 knots at springs. Having passed Cap Island, bring it to bear S. by W. f W., or S.S.W. astern, which will lead through in mid-channel between Round and Long Islands to the "West, and Helen Mars Reef to the East. The soundings in this track are very variable, 15 to 35 fathoms. In working, if standing westward of the South end of Round Island, do not go farther in that direction than to bring Raffles Lighthouse on with the N.W. end of Long Island. Standing towards the N.E. sides of Round and Long Islands, to avoid the reefs which extend from them, the Cap should not be brought South of S. i W., or Raffles Lighthouse East of N. by E. The Cap, if not brought West of S.S.W. f W., or Steep Cape, the bold headland inside Cap Island, kept to the South of S. J W., will keep the vessel clear of the Helen Mars Reef ; and when the northern peak of Great Carimon is well open northward of Red Island, a vessel will be northward of that danger, and may proceed to the north-eastward into the fairway of the main channel of Singapore Strait. To proceed from thence to Singapore Road, see hereafter. Directions Southward. — Leaving Singapore Strait, and having proceeded as far as Raffles Lighthouse, and brought it to bear W.N.W., or N.W. by W., distant about 1^ mile, Cap Island will be seen bearing about S. by W. f W., or S.S.W., and kept upon either of those bearings it will lead about mid- channel between Helen Mars Reef and Round Island. In working, Cap Island must not be brought West of S.S.W. ^ W., or Steep Cape West of S. 5 W., to avoid Helen Mars Reef. The dangers extending from Round Island and Long Island will be avoided by not bringing Cap Island South of S. i W. Having passed westward of the Cap, which must not be approached nearer than half a mile, a course about S.W. or S.W. by S. may be steered towards the Sabon shore ; but, as before noticed, be particularly careful to guard against the effects of the tide in this locality. With a commanding breeze, the passage eastward of the Middleburgh Shoal may be taken by keeping the East point of North Passage Island in line with the N.W. peak of False Durian, which will lead midway between the shoal and the rocky patch ; the water deepens towards the Middleburgh Shoal, it being steep-to all round. To prevent being set upon it in light I. A. 2z no 4 VARELLA. AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. winds, caution is requisite, as the tides run here from 3 to 4 miles an hour at times. A vessel being abreast of Little Carimon, with its northern end bearing West from 2 to 2^ miles, a S.S.E. 4 E. course will carry her clear of the mud- banks fronting the low land of Grreat Carimon, in soundings from 7 to 8 fathoms, until the North end of Pandan Island is on with the North end of Salion, when the strait between Great Carimon and Sabon will be open. With a working wind from Little Carimon the soundings are the best guide in standing towards the mud-banks fronting Great Carimon, which ought not to be approached under 6 fathoms, remembering that the peaks of Little Carimon in line, bearing about N.W., lead close to the edges of the shoal banks ; the depths in the offing are from 14 to 16 fathoms, mud. The peaks of Little Carimon in line will lead outside the dangers off Great Carimon, as will also Pandan bearing South. When the strait between Great Carimon and Sabon is open, the soundings become irregular ; and here caution is requisite with a working wind, as the tides set strong through this straight to the westward at times. When the North end of Pandan is on with the North end of Sabon, and the vessel is distant from the former 2 miles, in 7 fathoms, a S. by E. course will lead clear of the mud-bank that fronts Buru, and midway between it and Middleburgh Shoal, till the North end of Red Island is on with the South end of the South Twin, and the soundings will be irregular, from 5 to 9 fathoms. In working, a vessel may stand to the eastward to a moderate distance at discretion, but she must not approach the shore of Buru nearer than 1^ mile in 6 to 6 fathoms. When the South end of Buru bears West, the soundings will decrease regularly on the edge of the mud-bank which extends south- ward as far as Deep-water Point, and the mud-bank may be borrowed on at discretion. Standing eastward towards Middleburgh Shoal, do not approach it nearer than to bring the West end of North Passage Island to touch the East end of South Passage Island ; the North end of Red Island, on with the bluff headland to the eastward, will lead northward of the shoal, and the North end of Red Island, on with the South end of the Twins, will lead southward ; the latter transit-line also just clears to the northward, the rocky patch lying to the westward of Red Island. When clear of Middleburgh Shoal, and of the shoal to the westward of Dolphin Island, as the strait to the southward is free from danger, a direct course may be steered for the East end of False Durian ; the Passage Islands may be approached to any convenient distance. Princes Island must not be neared much under a mile, as dangers extend a considerable distance from it. The soundings throughout are very irregular, decreasing towards the western shore, where there is good anchorage. At IJ mile from the north- western and largest of the two rocky islets off the N. W. end of False Dm'ian, DIRECTIONS. • .300 and it being on with the peak of the latter, there is a bank of hard saud and stones three-quarters of a mile in extent, having 4-^- fathoms least water, and from 10 to 6 fathoms close-to ; when on it, the East side of South Passage Island is on with the North end of Little Durian. Standing towards the South end of Great Durian, come no nearer the Tombs than 1 mile, when South Passage Island will bear N.W. by W. ^ W., to avoid the small reef of coral rock lying half a mile from the South Tomb, and near to which are 20 to 29 fathoms. The best anchorage in this part of the strait will be found about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern shore of False Durian, in 12 to 14 fathoms. With a working wind, keep near False Durian, where the tides are much stronger than in mid-channel; but take care to bring Rocky Islet to the West of S. by W. before the peak of False Durian bears West, to keep clear of Richardson Shoal. To pass westward of the Brothers, between them and False Durian, steer through in mid-channel ; but with a working wind, either side of the channel may be borrowed on, when to the southward of Richardson Shoal. After passing Rocky Islet, off the S.E. end of False Durian, keep it West of N.N. W. until to the southward of the 3-fathom bank, lying nearly a mile South of it. To pass eastward of the Brothers, after passing the Tombs, steer E. by S., keeping about 2 miles from the North and East sides of the North Brother, where the water will shoal to 12 or 13 fathoms ; then steer about S. by E., attending to the set of the tide, to pass the Middle and South Brother at the same distance, not borrowing nearer thenii than 10 or 12 fathoms. With a ■working wind, do not stand too far over towards the Eastern bank, but tack immediately, if irregular soundings are got on the overfalls near it, nor so far out as to sink the beach of the Middle Brother from the deck of an ordi- nary ship. The depths in this channel will be mostly from 10 to 12 fathoms near the Brothers, to 1 6 or 18 fathoms near the overfalls on the edge of the Eastern bank. Being abreast of the South Brother, at about 2 miles distance, steer South or S. by W. until it bears N.N.W. ; and whether the vessel has passed east- ward or westward of the Brothers, after having brought the South Brother to bear N.N.W., steer about S. by E. ^ E. towards the Alang Tiga Islands, and endeavour to keep in from 14 to 16 fathoms. With a working wind the best track is to stand to the eastward until in 17 fathoms, about mid-channel, and into 12 fathoms towards the Sumatra shore, but not under this depth in passing Dato and Basso Points, as the shoal fronting the latter is steep-to, with 8 to 14 fathoms near its edge. After passing Basso Point, the coast may be approached occasionally to 6 or 7 fathoms ; but the best track with a fair wind is about mid-channel between it and the Alang Tiga, or pass about 2 or 2^ miles westward of these islands at discretion. Having passed the Alang Tiga, keep the southorumost island to the North 356 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC. of N.W. by N., until Seera Island bears East or E. ^ S., to avoid the Speke Rock ; the proper track from the Alang Tiga to Varella is to keep along the Sumatra coast in 9 to 12 fathoms, borrowing to 6 or 7 fathoms towards the coast, with a working wind. Caution is, however, necessary if running here in thick weather or in the night, on acount of strung tides setting into or out of the rivers, or you may get set on the extensive sand and mud bank fronting the coast to the west- ward of Tanjong Jaboeng, opposite the mouth of the Jambie River. Varella Island maj'^ be passed at about 2 miles distance in 10 or 12 fathoms ; but the spit surrounding Tanjong Jaboeng is steep from 5 fathoms, and should be approached only with great caution under a depth of 10 fathoms in working. From a position about 8 miles East from Tanjong Jaboeng to abreast Batakarang Point, at the entrance of Banka Strait, the course is about S.S.E., and the distance 66 miles, and the whole of the bank fronting the coast is in this space very flat, with regular soundings upon it, except the horn or spit with only 4 fathoms on it, lying 9 miles south-eastward of Tan- jong Jaboeng. The best guide, therefore, after leaving Yarella, is to keep along the coast in from 5^ to 7 fathoms, until Batakarang Point is approached, and 6i or 7 fathoms are the proper depths to preserve, when passing this point and entering Banka Strait, to avoid the Frederick Hendrik Rocks, on the East side of the channel ; with a working wind, the point may be ap- proached to 6J or 5 fathoms. CHAPTEE IX. THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE, This great thoroughfare between India and China is about 50 mih s in length from ihe junction of the Straits of Malacca and Rhio, previously described, to the Horsburgh Lighthouse at its eastern end. The great Malay Penin- sula is, as it were, continued in extensive ranges of islands, separated by in- tricate channels, of difficult navigation, but within a few years the beautiful lighthouses at either end of the main ship channel have rendered the passage easy, with common attention, either by day or night. Formerly the ships of less draught and smaller tonnage passed through the Old Strait to the northward of Singapore Island, but this is now never used by the larger vessels of modern times — a fact due, in some degree, to the western entrance of this channel, having become much shoaler. In the earliest days of European navigation, the route followed was around the South side of Singapore island, by the Salat Sambulan and the almost newly-discovered New Harbour. It is exactly described by John Hughen Van Linschoten, in his " Discourse of Voyages of the Portingales into the East Indies," probably written in the early part of the sixteenth century, and which certainly shows that these early Portuguese pilots were as well acquainted with the channels as we are even now, and their instructions are the best to pursue in the present day. They used Pedra Branca as a leading mark, and went through the middle channel, as now recommended. The strait was generally, though not minutely, surveyed by J. T. Thomp- son, Esq , F.R.G.S., the Government surveyor at Singapore, and the en- gineer to the excellent Horsburgh and Eaffles Lighthouses, which form its portals; and the directions which follow are taken from the China Sea Directory, land are based on this survey, as added to by Messrs. Richards, Keod, and Stanton, R.N., in 1858 — 1862. We have re-arranged the matter 358 THE STEAIT OF SINGAPORE. so as to commence at the western end, where it connects with the straits pre- viously described. The^Winds and Seasons are described on pages 6 — 13, ante. The Currents and Tides are noticed generally on pages 26, 27. Passages to and from Singapore are discussed on pages 50 — 67. The NORTH SIDE of the STRAIT is formed by the southern extremity of the Malay Peninsula, and the southern shores of the Island of Singapore. TANJONG BOLUS, the N.W. limit of the strait, and the termination of the Strait of Malacca, has been alluded to on page 136, the Carimon Islands on the opposite side being the other boundary. They are also described on page 136. The Bank, which surrounds Tanjong Bolus, extends across the entrance of the old Strait of Singapore, and is very shallow, having only from 6 to 12 ft. water on most parts. Its outer edge trends about E. by N. for about 9 miles to Tanjong Gul, the S. W. point of Singapore Island. The Old Strait of Sin- gapore, or Salat Tamhroh, in early times the great highway, is not now used by large vessels. Its western entrance has shoaled up very considerably. To the south-eastward of Tanjong Gul is a cluster of islands, of which we have no particular account, which bounds the inner channel, called Salat Samhulan. This is navigable, but the strait South of the islands is much pre- ferable, as it is more direct, and its dangers are marked by beacons. The Coast of Singapore Island, to the eastward of the Salat Sambulan, trends in a straight line S.E. and N.W., and at its South end is the New Jlarbotir, a strait presently described, which separates it from Blakan Mati Islands, beyond which, in the same direction, are the St. John's Islands, which form the northern side of the narrowest part of the strait. To the north-eastward of these islands is the roadstead and harbour of Singapore- They will be described together hereafter. SINKI CHANNEL, or Salat Sinki, by which Singapore New Harbour is approached from the westward, is bounded on either side by reefs, the edges of which are marked by beacons. Its length is 4 miles, and its breadth, at the eastern part, where it is narrowest, is but three-quarters of a mile. The depths in it are very irregular, generally from 9 to 15 fathoms, but in places there are over 20 fathoms. The eastern extreme of the channel is about 3 miles to the westward of New Harbour, and the western extreme about the same distance from the Sultan Shoal, described presently. North Side.— The first of the reefs, westward from New Harbour, are named the Ctjrene Shoals, and their S.E. extreme bears from Lots Wife AV. by S., distant 2| miles. They consist of two patches, which dry at three-quarters ebb, extending nearly l^ mile East and West, and about half a mile North and South. The eastern patch is twice as large as tlie western one, from which it is separated by a narrow channel. A heacon is placed upon tho South extreme of each of the patches. SIXKI CHANNEL. 359 Tlie next patch lies 3 miles to the westward of the western beacon of the Cyrene Shoals ; it is very small, and has a ivhite beacon on its North side. Half a mile North of this patch is a small island named Pulo Laut, having a smaller island close to the eastward of it. These two islands are the southernmost of an extensive group of islands lying close together, and to the northward of which, between them and the Singapore shore, is the navi- gable channel named Salat Sambulan. The outermost reef on the North side of the Sinki Channel, and which may be considered to form its north-western limit, is a small patch lying W. 3 N. li mile from the beacon on the small patch last mentioned ; W.S.W. 1 mile from the "West end of Pulo Laut, and N.E. by E. J E. 2\ miles from the Sultan Shoal ; this patch is not marked by a beacon. South Side. — The South side of the channel is marked by four red beacons^ the w^iole of them being nearly in line on a W. by S. and E. by N. bearing, and almost equidistant from each other. The easternmost beacon, bearing S. by E. f E., about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern beacon on the Cyrene Shoals, is placed on the northern edge of the reef which surrounds Freshcater Island, or Pulo Boohun and Pulo Oelar. The next beacon, almost a mile distant, is on the edge of the reef which extends from Pulo Bosing. Westward of this last are two reefs, which dry at three-quarters ebb, and their northern edges are each marked by a beacon. Pulo Salook, a small islet, 90 ft. high, may be considered as the south- western limit of the Sinki Channel. It is surrounded by a reef, which pro- jects nearly a quarter of a mile from it, and other patches of reef lie in a S.S.W. direction, and extend more than half a mile from it. Pulo Salook bears S. f E. nearly 2\ miles from the beacon on the reef South of Pulo Laut, S.E. by E. 2^ miles from the reef which forms the north-western limit of the strait, and E. by S. | S. 3j miles from the tripod beacon on the Sultan Shoal. Directions. — Coming from the westward, and intending to proceed through the Sinki Channel, a course may be steered to sight the tripod beacon on the Sultan Shoal, which may be passed at a prudent distance on either side. But to provide against the chance of the beacon having disappeared, or in the event of thick weather, the safer plan will be to steer for Pulo Salook — which, being a small round islet 90 ft. high, can be readily distinguished — • on an East, or E. -^ S. bearing. When the tripod beacon is made out,* and is brought to bear from N.N.W. to N.W., steer from E. by N. to E.N.E., giving Pulo Salook a berth of li mile ; after it is passed keep a good look- * If the tripod beacon upon the Sultan Shoal cannot be seen, a vessel should not proceed until she is quite certain of her position, and assured that some accident must have hap- pened to the beacon. As the mail steamers, both to and from Europe, now pass through the Sinki Channel, great attention is paid to the beacons which mark it. 360 THE STEAIT OF SINCxAPORE. out for the outer beacons on either side of the channel, when it will be only necessary to steer mid-channel between them. The same course, E. by N. — always remembering to guard against the effects of tide — will lead to the entrance of New Harbour, which should also be entered in mid-channel, taking care not to get too close over towards Berlayer Point, and to keep the conspicuous red bluff, which will be seen on the South side of the harbour, well open of the P. and 0. Company's jetties, to clear the Berlayer Eock. It is very necessary, however, when taking care to avoid this rock, not to get too close over on the opposite side, as has sometimes happened. The best plan is to keep as nearly as possible in mid- channel. The Tides are very irregular in the passages among the islands, running sometimes 4 miles per hour at springs. ST. JOHNS ISLANDS, which limit Singapore roads to the south-westward and form the eastern limit of the North side of this part of Singapore Strait, will be described presently. The SISTERS are two small islets, not quite a mile to the westward of West St. Johns Island ; the South Sister, named Pulo Soobur, is 89 ft. high. They are surrounded by reels, which in places extend to the distance of a cable's length, and close to their edges are irregular soundings of 5 to 9 fa- thoms. South from the South Sister the soundings soon deepen to 10, 12, 16, and 18 or 19 fathoms. The channel between them and West St. Johns is free from danger, with depths of 14 to 24 fathoms ; but about one-third of a mile West-southerly from the South Sister is the eastern end of a patch, with 1 8 ft. water over it, which thence extends one-third of a mile to the W.N.W. MIDDLE ISLAND, or Fulo Saharoot, 78 ft. high, bears W. by S. 3^ miles from West St. Johns, and N.E.-easterly 4^ miles from Eaffles lighthouse. It is a green island, with other islands to the north-westward of it. It is surrounded by a I'eef, which, from its S.E. point, projects nearly a third of a mile. A Dangerous Reef of rocks lies S.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile from the S.E. point of Middle Island. The reef is small, and always covered, ex- cept at very low tides, some points of the rocks being then just discernible. From it the South extreme of West St. Johns Island bears E.N.E. 3 miles, Eaffles lighthouse S. W. by W. i W. 4| miles, and Buffalo Eock S. by E. \ E. The chart shows no soundings on the South side of this reef, but there is said to be deep water close to ; on the North side it is said to be a steep coral wall, and the chart shows 8 fathoms close to this side. Pxdo Jong, a small round islet 75 ft. high, lying half a mile N.W. of Middle Island, open eastward of Middle Island, leads N.E. of the reef, and the South point of West St. Johns N.E. by E. i E., or Raffles lighthouse S. W. by W, A W., leads to the southward. The South peak of Carimon EABBIT AND CONEY— ALLIOATOR ISLAND. 361 Island, in line with the N(jrth part of Barn Island, W. by S. I S., also leads to the southward of it. The North side of the channel between Barn Island and Middle Island is bounded mostly by shoals and coral reefs, partly dry at low water. Nearly 2^ miles S.W. by W. from Middle Island is a reef, the middle part of which is dry. The RABBIT and CONEY are two small islets, on the North side of the western entrance to the main channel, nearly connected with the S.E. end of Barn Island, to the North of it, by a reef of rocks partly dry at low water. The Coney, or southernmost, is the smallest, and distant from the point of Barn Island rather less than one-third of a mile. The Rabbit is on with the centre of Barn Island bearing N.W. ^ W. ; the Coney is on with it, N.W. I N., nearly ; and these islets are in one with each other, bearing N. by E. 5 E. A rocky spit, covered at high tide, projects nearly a cable's length to the southward from the Coney ; consequently the islet should be given a berth of 2 cables. RAFFLES LIGHTHOUSE, on Coney Island, was named after Sir Stam- ford Raffles, the founder of Singapore. It is in lat. 1° 9' 51" N., long. 103" 44' 51" E., and exhibits, at an elevation of 105 ft. above high water, a ^xed hright light, which is visible from a ship's deck at the distance of 12 miles, between the bearings E.S.E. (being obscured over the St. Johns Islands and Middle Island, and its oflF-lying reef) and N.W. by W., which latter bearing leads I mile S.W. of Sultan Shoal. It bears S.W. by VV. ^ W. 7^ miles from the South end of West St. John's Island ; E. ^ N. nearly 5^ miles from the North end of Tree Island Reef; S.E. ^ E. nearly 7^ miles from the Sultan Shoal; N.W., westerly, 3 miles from Helen Mars Reef; and West, northerly, 4^^ miles from Buffalo Ro<'k. BARN ISLAND, or Pulo iSennang, about a mile in extent and 133 ft. high, lies close to the N.W. of the Rabbit and Coney, and E. by N. ^ N. 5 miles from Tree Island. It is of a square, level aspect, covered with trees, and visible at the distance of 15 miles. Its South and. West sides are fronted by a reef extending 2 or 3 cables from it, close to which are 9 or 1 1 fathoms, with 18 and 19 fathoms a short distance off. ALLIGATOR ISLAND, or Pulo Euvcaii, nearly joins the N.W. end of Barn Island, the space between affording no passage for ships. It is about the same size, but 52 ft. higher than Barn Island, aod of a sloping form, the highest part being at its South end. At a quarter of a mile from its South end are 14 and 16 fathoms, but off its West side not more than 6 to 9 fathoms will be obtained at half to two-thirds of a mile. A mile to the northward of Alligator Island is a small island, Pulo Soo- dong, inside which, between Middle and Freshwater Islands, are several islands, with numerous coral reefs amongst them, the exact positions of which aro I. A. 3 a 362 THE STEAIT OF SINGAPORE. unknown ; these islands and dangers lie quite out of the track of shipping. Pulo Salook, the north-westernmost of them, and also the S.W. limit of the Sinki Channel, is described at page 359. SULTAN SHOAL [Terumho Careemon), which forms the north-western limit of the western entrance to Singapore Strait, is of circular form-, about two-thirds of a cable's length in diameter, and the rocks on its shoalest part are about 2 ft. above the sea at low-water spring tides. The ship of that name grounded on it in 1789. Its North side is marked by a tripod beacon, painted in red and white stripes, from which the N.W. extreme of Tree Island Eeef bears S. i E. 5 miles ; Pulo Salook E. by S. f S. 3J miles ; and Baffles lighthouse, just open of the West extremes of Alligator and Barn Islands, S.E. ^ E. Tj miles. Captain Ross examined this shoal in 1829, and reported it to be steep-to, 7 fathoms water within a boat's length of the rocks. Ajax Shoal, on which the steam vessel of that name touched in 1877, lies 1 mile S.E. by E. | E. from the Sultan Shoal beacon ; this shoal, composed of coral with sharp pinnacles, is about half a cable in extent N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and has on its S.W. extremity a depth of 19 ft., at low water, spring tides. A nun huoy, painted red, has been placed by the Master At- tendant at Singapore, on the centre of Ajax Shoal ; this buoy should be given a berth of 2 cables when passing it, on either side. The following bearings were taken from the Growler whilst at anchor in 5 fathoms, on the shoal : — viz., Sultan Shoal beacon, N.W. by W. i W. ; Rafflles lighthouse, S.E. \ E. ; and Tanjong Bolus, W. by N. The line of islands and shoals which lie to the south-westward of these Round, Long, Red, and Tree Islands, &c. which form the N.E. limit of the strait of Durian, has been described on page 349 previously. SOUTH SIDE of the STRAIT.— The strait between the rocky ledges north-westward of Little Sambo and St. John's Islands (described in p. 371), is 2^ miles wide, with very irregular soundings, varying from 15 or 16 to 40 or 50 fathoms. Caution. — Owing to the strong tides which rush through this part of the strait, and the rocky and uneven nature of the bottom, violent eddies and overfalls, very alarming to strangers, are usually to be met with, more especially on the South side of the channel, towards the Sambo Islands ; for •which reason, as also because of the dangers and great depths of water on that side, it is advisable to keep on the North side, near St. John's Islands, — a custom always followed by those accustomed to the navigation of the strait. The Coast. — That part of the southern side of Singapore Strait between the Sambo Islands and the north-western extreme of Boelang Island, a dis- tance of 71 miles to the S.W. by W., is formed of numerous islands lying PULO SENNANG- BUFFALO ROCK. 363 on eifher side of the entrance of Batu Hadji Strait, which separates the large islands of Batt im and Boelang. Pulo Sennaug, the outermost of the islands at the eastern side of entrance to Batu Hadji Strait, is only about a third of a mile in extent, and bears S.W. by W. ^ W. about H mile from the N.W. extreme of Little Sambo, and S. by E. |^ E. 3 miles from West St. Johns. Westward of this island there are many dangers. Barren Island, the outer of the small islands on western side of entrance to Batu Hadji Strait, is a mere rock or islet, and bears S.W. by W. ^ W. 2^ miles from Pulo Sennang ; S. by W. J W. 4 J miles from West St. Johns ; and S.E. by E. ^ E. U mile from Bufialo Ptock. Near Pulo Sennang are depths of from 7 to 12 fathoms. Barren Island appears to be free from danger, with depths of 13 to 18 fathoms between it and Buffalo Pock ; but, as previously remarked, vessels should avoid getting on this side of the strait. Buffalo Rock, lying well out towards the fairway of the strait, is of a black colour, about the size of a long-boat, always above water, with 30 and 40 fathoms water near it to the southward, and irregular soundings of 13, 18, and 25 fathoms close to it on the N.W. side. It bears S.W. by S. 4 miles from the South extreme of West St. Johns; S.S.E. 3 miles from Middle Island, and East-northerly from Paffles lighthouse. Between the Buffalo Eock and the reef off the S.E. end of Middle Island, the strait is 2| miles, the same breadth as between the rocky ledges and West St. Johns. It is prudent, in working here, to keep nearest the North side of the channel, making short tacks, and not to deepen above 30 or 34 fathoms towards the Buffalo Rock, and the South side of the strait. Tides. — The flood from the straits of Malacca sets to the eastward, and the flood from the China Sea sets to the westward, meeting between Tanjong Bolus and Tree Island. It is high water at Rabbit Island at full and change at II a.m., but the tide does not set to the eastward till about 1 p.m., and it is then about half low water by the shore. The tides set fairly through the channel about E.N.E. and W.S.W. be- tween St. John's Islands and Raffles lighthouse, frequently very strong, with eddies on the springs. Their velocity, when strongest, is from 4 to 4^ miles per hour, making it unpleasant to anchor here in large ships when the •weather is unsettled in the night, particularly if unacquainted. From Raifles lighthouse to the western entrance of the strait the tides cannot be depended on to set as fairly through the channel as they do to the eastward of the lighthouse, but may be expected to draw more across the channel in a north- easterly or opposite direction. Outside the strait between Tree Island and Tanjong Bolus no dependence can be placed upon the set of the tides, for they sometimes run strong down towards the straits of Durian, and at other times to the northward towards the old strait of Singapore. 364 THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE. The flood has been observed in both monsoons to run to tlie westward 10 or 12 hours at a time, or even 18 hours, strong and weak alternately; at other times the flood sets only 6 hours to the westward, and the ebb the same length of time to the eastward ; but the tides throughout Singapore Strait are seldom very regular. During the strength of the N.E. monsoon at neap tides, the current sets to the westward at times for three or four days, although there is a regular rise and fall by the shore. Stafi" Commander Richards, R.N., commanding H.M.S. Saracen, found the rise and fall in New Harbour to be 10 feet at springs and 7^ feet at neaps. Temporary Anchorages. — Owing to the strong tides and ctirrents in th© western part of Singapore Strait, sailing vessels are frequently obliged to anchor, for which purpose the North side of the channel is much to be pre- ferred. The most convenient spot for the purpose between St. Johns and Raffles lighthouse, are the banks which front the Sisters and Middle Islands, (See page 360.) Abreast of the South end of St. Johns a ship ought not to anchor if it can he avoided, for the water is deep, and the tides run in eddies with greater strength than in any other part of the strait. There appears to be fair anchorage, in 12 to 19 fathoms, a mile or two ou either side of Bufi'alo Rock, or between it and Barren Island ; also between it and Helen Mars Reef, as well as about a mile or so to the northward and westward of the latter danger ; but this side of the strait is usually avoided as much as possible even by those locally acquainted. To the westward of Raffles lighthouse there is convenient anchorage in & to 12 fathoms all along the North side of the strait, while to the southward the water is deep, and the bottom rocky ; the South side of this part of the strait is, therefore, very unsuitable for anchoring purposes, especially when it is remembered that violent squalls are common hereabouts. Caution. — Vessels at anchor, or coming to an anchor during the night, should be careful to ascertain their exact position as nearly as possible, and to have a ffood bearing of Raffles light ; they should also keep a vigilant look- out that they do not drag their anchors, and drift into danger. Directions. — To proceed from Singapore Roads or from the eastward, through the western part of Singapore Strait, steer to pass the South point of St. Johns Islands as close as the wind may permit, and then about S.W. "by W. i W. to round the Rabbit and Coney. It is best to keep nearest the North side of the channel in this track, to avoid the BuflFalo Rock, and the deep water and rocky bottom towards the South shore ; but remember the reef off the S.E. end of Middle Island. The South end of St. Johns kept N.E. by E, I E., or Raffles lighthouse S.W. by W. h W., leads clear of this WESTEEN ENTRANCE— DIRECTIONS. 365 reef, and either of these are safe bearings to lead along the North side of the channel until Eaffles lighthouse is approached, which naay be rounded at the distance of 2 or 3 cables' lengths, if the wind is northerly. After rounding the lighthouse, steer W.N. W. to pass between Tree Island and Sultan Shoal; the lighthouse kept between E. by S. and E.S.E. will lead in a good fairway course, but it must not be brought at all to the northward of East to avoid Tree Island, or to the southward of S.E. by E. to clear the Sultan Shoal ; having passed between those dangers, a course West or W. by N., according to the set of the tide and other circumstances, ■will lead between Little Carimon and Tanjong Bolus. At Night. — Raffles light (page 361) kept in sight clears all dangers on the North side of the channel, both to the eastward and westward of it. To proceed from Little Carimon to the eastward through the western part of Singapore Strait. — When in mid-channel between Tanjong Bolus and Little Carimon, in 17 to 20 fathoms water, steer East or E.S.E. as the prevailing "wind and tide require, observing to bring the North point of Little Carimon W. ^ S., or draw gradually tlie North peak of Great Carimon in one with the South point of Little Carimon, bearing about W. by S. J S., which will lead about 2 miles northward of Tree Island. If the wind is southerly, bor- row towards Tree Island to 14 fathoms, about a mile distant, but no nearer which will favour the vessel in rounding the Rabbit and Coney. As before stated. Raffles lighthouse bearing between E. by S. and E.S.E., is the fair channel course between Tree Island and Sultan Shoal, not bring- ing the lighthouse to the northward of East to avoid Tree Island, nor to the southward of S.E. by E. to clear the Sultan Shoal. Having passed Tree Island, steer to round the lighthouse at from 2 cables' lengths to 1 or IJ mile distant ; or if the wind and tides are adverse, or from other circum- stances it be desirable to do so, anchor to the westward of Barn Island, out of the strength of the tide. Having rounded the lighthouse, steer to pass St. Johns Islands at a convenient distance — from 2 cables' lengths to a mile — not bringing the lighthouse to the southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., or the South point of St. John's to the eastward of N.E. by E. 5 E., to avoid the danger on the North side of the channel. After rounding St. Johns, and bound to Singapore Roads or through the eastern part of the strait, proceed as directed hereafter. In working through between St. John Islands and Raffles lighthouse it is usual to keep on the North side of the channel, making short tacks if neces- sary, as that part of the strait affords tolerably convenient anchorage alono- the greater portion of it, and vessels are extremely liable to meet with light baffling airs, which would render it necessary for them to anchor. It is especially requisite to attend to this when to the eastward of Buffalo Rock for on that part of the South side of the strait the water is deep, and the 366 SINGAPOEE. bottom rocky and unsafe for anchoring upon, the danger being much in- creased by rapid currents and tides, with violent eddies and overfalls. All danger on the North side of this part of the channel will be avoided if the South extreme of 8t. Johns Islands be not brought eastward of N.E. by E. i E., or Eaffles Lighthouse southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., but these bearings more particularly apply to the rock which lies S.E. by E. from Middle Island. Vessels may, with proper precaution, stand farther over between the Sisters and Middle Island, and bring the South end of St. Johns as far as E. by N. Take care, however, when nearing Middle Island, n