m-*

iiilM ARCHIPELAGO

ClilNA.&JAEAN.
DIREGIORX

LL BE FOUND

^TatJan

8-1

riGURES INDICATE THE PACES IN WHICH THE RE3PECTIVE DESCRIPTIONS WILL BE FOUND

A DIRECTORY

FOR THE NAVIGATION OF THE

INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO,

CHINA, AND JAPAN^^

THE STEAITS OF MALACCA AND SUNDA, AND THE PASSAGES

EAST OF JAYA.

CANTOX, SHANGHAI, THE YELLOW SEA, AND JAPAN,
WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE WINDS, MONSOONS, AND CURRENTS,

AKD GEXERAL IXSTRt-CTIOXS FOR THE VAEIOVS CHANXELS, HAKBOVRS, ETC.

SECOND EDITION.

BY ALEXANDER GEOEGE JINDLAY, F.R.G.S.,

Honorary Member of the Societa Geografica Italiana.

LONDON :
PUBLISHED BY RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE,

53, FLEET STREET, E.C.
1878.

ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL.

TREFACE,

Tais volume may be considered as a sequel to our Sailing Directory for the
Ind'an Ocean, which describes all the coasts and islands between the Cape
of Good Hope and the Straits of Malacca and Sunda, the great, westward
portals of the vast archipelago which is described in the present work.
Although each book is complete in itself, still tliey may be taken together
as the modern representative of our old "Oriental Navigator," which was
first issued from this house by the predecessors of the present publisher, in
1775, a fourth edition being completed in 1808. The arrangement of that
quarto volume is very much the same as that now followed in these two
•works ; and, as is stated in the Preface to the Indian Ocean Directory, was
copied, with most of its matter, from the Oriental Navigator, by the late
Captain James Horsburgh, in the first edition of his work, published in
1809—11. Captain Horsburgh died in May, 1836.

This Directory completes the series of those drawn up or edited by the
writer. Those for the North Atlantic and South Atlantic Oceans, embracing
all the area northward, between Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope ;
those for the Indian Ocean and Indian Archipelago giving all the countries
between the Cape of Good Hope and the North of China, while the circuit
is completed by the Directories for the Pacific Ocean. These last named
works were designed by the author 20 years ago ; and, with the exception of
this book, all have been before the world for some years, and, it is hoped,
have done good service. They were drawn up from materials scattered
over a wide range of literature, and the collection of which involved much
labour and research.

This book differs in some degree from the others, for a considerable por-
tion of it is taken from the " Pilots," published by the Hydrographic oflB.ce,
so carefully compiled, chiefly by Commander John W. King, P.N., and
embracing all the information given by former works, combined with the
recent observations of many naval officers.

For the China Sea and Coast of China we are thus indebted to these
Admiralty works, and we fuUy acknowledge our indebtedness to them. In

iv PREFACE.

many parts we have somewhat curtailed the details, without, it is hoped,
impairing their utility to the Mercantile Marine.

The other portions of this book have been derived from various and
numerous sources, the chief of which we may briefly indicate, proceeding in
the geographic order in which the book is arranged.

The Strait of Malacca was partially surveyed, by direction of the East
India Company, by Captains Moresby, Ward, and Moore, and part of the
Sands by Captain Daniel Ross. The labours of these zealous officers, in the
early days of hydrography as at present understood, have been alluded to
in the introductory remarks to the Indian Ocean Directory. The northern
part of the Sumatra coast was re-examined by Commander Fell, under the
same auspices, in 1851 — 8. Subsequently to this the Sumatran side was
surveyed by Lieutenant Jackson, in 1860.

The second great entrance to the Indian Archipelago— the Strait of Sunda

lias been well surveyed by the Dutch ; and it is to this nation, and the

zeal and talent of their officers, that we are largely indebted for our exact
acquaintance with the hydrography of the archipelago ; and, also, it may be
at once stated, that larger portions of the ensuing work are dei^ved from the
same sources.

Subsequent to the cession of Java, and other possessions, to the Dutch
nation, after the vigorous policy inaugurated by Sir Stamford Raffles during
the British occupation of that fine island, the queen of the archipelago, very
much attention was paid by the Netherlands officers to the acquisition of
knowledge in almost every branch of science relating to their extensive
territories ; and, however much may have been said as to their exclusive
policy, it is certain that a vast amount of knowledge, and the records of the
experience of a large number of most competent observers, was given to the
world ; but their memoirs being too frequently in the Dutch language, one
not universally understood, they were left unheeded by those most interested
in them, and thus it became a general opinion that this enterprising nation
desired to keep the information that was acquired under these auspices to
itself. Of late years this opinion has been fully met, and it is now accorded
that no country has done better service to science.

For hydrography, the establishment of the Commission for the improve-
in nt of the Indian sea charts, at Batavia, under the enlightened Governor-
General, the Baron Van der Capellen, in 1821, a period when our naiitical
surveys were first being commenced on a more extended s ale, has led to
great results. They are detailed generally in the ensuing pages ; but ic is
desired that every acknowledgement of our obligations to the labours of
this commission should be given. They are continued to this day, and are
constantly adding to our stock of information. The works of Capt.-Lieut.
Baron Peter Melvill van Carnbee have been alluded on page 150 hereafter.
It is to this young officer, perhaps, more than any other individual, that we

PEEFACE. V

owe a connected view of the labours of the commission to which he was
secretary, as well as one of its most active surveyors.

The Strait of Sunda, as before said, was surveyed by Lieuts. Rietveld and
Boom, in 1848, and since that time many additional observations have been
added for its improvement. Of the North Coast of Java we have surveys of
some minuteness, executed by Lieutenants Escher, Eschauzier, Staring,
Eietveld, Boom, and others, which are generally sufficient for navigation.

A portion of the Java Sea is still incomplete on the charts, and is imper-
fectly described, and dependant on old observations ; but the part between
the Straits of Sunda, comprising the Thousand Islands, &c., has been more
recently examined. Banka Strait has been excellently surveyed by Lieuts.
Stanton and Eeed, E.N., in H.M.S. Saracen, in 1859-60; and this important
service has discovered a more direct and open channel through this great
highway. The charts and directions for the strait leave little to be desired.
Gaspar Strait, as now shown, is from the survey by the U.S. officers, in
1854. Carimata Strait, the easternmost of the western passages between
Sumatra and Borneo, is still unsurveyed, although many of its dangers and
features were fixed by Captains Eoss and Maughan.

The labyrinth of islands and passages to the north-westward, the channels
leading to Singapore, have not been completely and systematically surveyed,
but the charts and directions are now so far complete that the main routes
are quite sufficiently known and described for safe navigation. Lieutenants
Melvill van Carnbee, Blommendal, and Edeling, have executed considerable
portions, and their charts have been improved, especially Ehio Strait, by the
examination of Lieuts. Eeed and Stanton, E.N.

Singapore Strait was surveyed by a very zealous officer, J. T. Thompson,
Esq., F.E.G-.S., the government surveyor at Singapore, and the constructor
of those excellent monitors the Horsburgh and Eaffles Lighthouses, which
mark its East and West entrances. A portion of this important strait has
since been re-surveyed by Lieuts. Eeed and Eichards, E.N.

The Gulf of Siam, which has been very imperfectly laid down on our
charts, was well surveyed, and its dangers and main features accurately de-
lineated in H.M.S. Saracen, commanded by Staff-Commander J. Eichards, a
coast line of 1,000 miles in extent in the short space of twenty months, in
1856 — 8, a work which reflects much ci'cdit on its author. Cambodia, or
Lower Cochin China, was also surveyed by the same officers. Of the coast
of the Annamite empire, which now belongs to the French, our knowledge
is less perfect. The Gulf of Tong King and Hainan Island are also mainly
dependent upon the former surveys of Daniel Eoss and other officers, im-
proved by the observations of Mr. Kerr, E.N.

The western shores of the great island of Borneo are well laid down and
described. A large portion of it was suiveyed, minutely and excellently,
by Sir Edward Belcher, and other parts were completed by Lieut. D. M.

vi PREFACE.

Gordon, partially so by Capt. Drink water Bethune, and of late some points
have been revisited by the Admiralty surveyors, conducted by Commander
Ward.

Palawan, and some of the islands North of Borneo, were elaborately
surveyed and profusely described by Captain Bate. The western coast of
the Philippine Islands have been generally laid down from the surveys of
various Spanish officers.

The China Sea is perhaps the locality where hydrography has made the
greatest changes of late years. Up to 1862 the charts of this great highway
exhibited a labyrinth of detached shoals, scattered about without order or
connection, laid down from the isolated observations of zealous officers of the
East India service, many of which are now difficult of recognition, from the
vague manner of their announcement. The increasing importance of the
China commerce, and the advance in the sailing powers of the ships em-
ployed in it, caused this great sea to be much more frequented than in former
years. Since the year above named, Commander Peed, with a moderate
staff, in H.M.S. Rifleman, has examined the outer line of dangerous shoals
■which limit the two great channels, which are separated by a vast range of
dangerous coral reefs and shoals, leaving the clear main channel to the
north-west, and the Palawan Channel to the south-east of them perfectly
free from danger for those vessels which beat up or down the China Sea by
either passage in the opposite monsoons. In the work these dangers are
fully described and enumerated.

The Eastern Passages are less known, and their hydrography, generally,
is less advanced than in other parts. A great portion of the islands, claimed
by the Dutch, are, with the exception of their noble possessions in Java,
more or less under the control of native chiefs, and therefore their commerce,
in a European sense, is of minor importance ; therefore they have attracted
less attention. Still very much has been done by the Dutch officers.

Of Java we have before spoken. Of the volcanic range, to the eastward,
the coasts have been surveyed by various officers, under the direction of the
Commission at Batavia ; and the account of its navigation was drawn up by
Mr. J. Swart and Melvill van Carnbee.

The remarkable island of Celebes is, in many parts, very vaguely repre-
sented, but its main points are well fixed and delineated. Thus Makassar,
its chief port, was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher, as were the ports at its
N.E. end. The remainder of its coasts rest on the more vague authorities
of Dutch travellers and voyagers, and, for the great Southern Gulf of Buni,
on the single voyage of Rajah Sir James Brooke. The groups to the east-
ward of this are also but indifferently known, although there are several
tracks of eminent voyagers which have served to correct the main points
and features. Of these, the surveys of Lieut. Gregory of the Dutch navy,
with thoae of M.M. Kolff, Mudera, Miiller, and other Dutch officers, may

PEEFACE. xii

be enumerated. The celebrated Dumont D'Urville also made a cruise
through a portion of the archipelago and settled many of its points. To
these may be added the names of Sir Edward Belcher, Owen Stanley, and
other British, officers, so that although as a whole our charts and directions
may be somewhat defective, they are still sufficient for the general purposes
of navigation.

The coast of China is of vastly greater importance to commerce now
that its ports and coasting trade are open to the world. The British
Government, alive to the importance of this, commissioned those two
well-known officers (now Admirals) R, CoUinson, C.B., and Kellett, to
replace the vague outlines left to us by the Jesuits in the first part of the
last century, as alluded to on page 940 hereafter. The most important
result of this extensive and difficult enterprise has been to give to every
one a complete picture of the labyrinthine coast of this great empire, as
perfect as of any other portion of the globe. Many minor features have
been added to this great achievement, a portion of which was attained
under difficult and perplexing circumstances. The directions drawn up
appeared at first in the Chinese Repository, but have been followed im-
plicitly in this work.

The foregoing brief and imperfect enumeration of the authorities upon
which the physical portion of this book rests, will show how laborious and
extensive must be the operations which can bring together such a mass of
materials as is here given.

The Editor feels it due to his readers to state, as has been before alluded
to, that a large portion has been already found to his hands and purpose,
and he has only to unite these scattered memoirs into one more complete
work by filling up the vacancies from the many sources which it is hoped,
as it is intended, are acknowledged throughout.

London^ March 1, 1869.

The foregoing preface to the first edition was written before a descrip-
tion of the Japanese Archipelago was added to this work. For this
description we are indebted to the China Sea Directory, Vol. IV., and
recent reports from H.M. surveying vessels. Previous to 1867, the shores
of Japan were represented in our charts from the descriptions of its own
ingenious geographers. In the year 1867, Commander Brooker commenced
an examination of its coasts in H.M.S. Sylvia, and was succeeded in the
year 1869 by Commander St. John, who continued the survey without inter-
ruption till the year 1872, when the -Sy^i'^a was ordered home for repairs,

viii PREFACE.

and did not return to Japan till July, 1871, since which time she has
remained as a surveying ship on the Japanese coasts. Of late years
some surveying operations have also been carried on by the Japanese
government.

New and important information has been gained from the operations
carried on in H.M. surveying vessels Rifleman and Nassau. In the former
of these vessels, Staff-Commander J.W. Reed, after carefully examining the
dangers in the China Sea, surveyed Balabac Strait and its approaches, and
added to the completeness of the survey of Singapore Strait. In the years
1870 — 1872, Commander W. Chimmo, in H.M.S. Nassau, was employed in
the Sulu and adjacent seas. The hostility of the natives, however, prevented
a complete survey of the Sulu Archipelago. In the year 1877, the Nassau,
under Commander Napier, E.N., was engaged in examining the many
dangers recently reported as lying near the shore by vessels engaged in
trade between the treaty ports of China.

H.M.S. Challenger, with the Deep-sea Exploring Expedition on board, be-
tween August, 1874, and March, 1875, was some months in the archipelago ;
and from several books edited by the officers, and from official reports, much,
has been taken to add to the completeness of the ensuing descriptions. The
places visited in the passage from Torres Strait to Hong Kong were the
Arru and Ki Islands, Banda, Amboina, and Ternate in the Molucca Sea ;
Samboangan, Iloilo, and Manila in the Philippines. In returning, the vessel
passed through the Philippine Archipelago eastward of Mindoro and Zebu,
and westward and southward of Mindanao, thence to the Admiralty Islands
N.E. of New Guinea, before proceeding to the northward to Yokohama.

The above labours of our own government, and those of the Spanish and
Dutch governments, have afforded most of the newly incorporated informa-
tion in this book ; but no trouble has been spared to make the work
complete up to the date of issue by the careful examination of all other
available sources of information.

London, September, 1878.

CONTENTS.

PREFACE.

PAGE
iii

TABLE OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS AND THEIR

AUTHORITIES xvii

(This Table will serve as an Index to the work arranged geographically.
The Diagrams facing the title will also serve as an index.)

CHAPTER I.
METEOROLOGY.

I. Winds and Seasons 1

General systems of the Winds and Monsoons, 1, 2 ; Eainfall, 3 ; Malacca
Strait, 5 ; Water-spouts, 6 ; Singapore, 9 ; Banka Strait, 13 ; Java Sea,
&c,, 14 ; Siam, &c., 16 ; Eastern Passages, 18.

II. Currents 25

General Remarks, 25 ; Malacca and Singapore Straits, 26 ; Siam and China
Sea, 28 ; Eastern Passages, 30.

IIL Tides and Tide Table 32-38

IV. Temperature 39-40

V. Magnetic Variation 41

CHAPTER II.
PASSAGES.

1. The Atlantic to the Strait of Sunda

2. Southern India to the Straits of Malacca

3. Straits of ]\Ialacca to Southern India

4. Sunda Strait to Banka Strait

5. Banka Strait to Sunda Strait
I. A.

42
SO
51

52
53

CONTENTS.

VASSAGES— continued.

6. Banka Strait to Singapore

7. Singapore to Hong Kong

8. Hong Kong to Singapore

9. Singapore to the Gulf of Siam and to Saigon

10. Gulf of Slam to Sin'japore

11. Saigon to Singapore

12. Eastern lioute to Singapore

13. Eastern Routes to China .

14. China to the Bay of Bengal
lo. Passages hetween Australia and China

16. Between the North Coiist of Australia and Singapore

17. From China Homewards

18. Currents and Passages against the Monsoon in the China Sea

19. Passages along the Coast of China .

20. Passages between China and Japan . .

PAGE
54
55
61
63
65
66
67
68
74
78
80
81
85
91
99

PART II.

DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS.

CHAPTER III.

THE STRAIT OF MALACCA 106

Eastern Coast, 107 ; Pulo Penang, 107 ; Perak, 112 ; Salangore, 119 ; Ma-
lacca, 130 ; Carimon Islands, 136 ; Coast of Sumatra, 137 ; Pulo Brasae
Lighthouse, 138.

CHAPTER IV.

THE STRAIT OF SUNDA 150

The Java Coast, 151 ; First Point Lighthouse, 154 ; Anjer, 162 ; The Coast
of Sumatra, 165; Krakaloa, 173; S.E. Coast of Sumatra, 179; Direc-
tions, 179—180.

CHAPTER V.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND BANKA STRAIT 181

Sumatra Coast, 181 ; Banka Strait, 187 ; Lucipara Island, 192 ; Palembang,
196 ; Coast of Banka, 199 ; Kalian Point, 210 ; Mintok, 210 ; Stanton
and Lucipara Channels, 215 ; Directions, 217 ; Lucipara Channel, 219 ;
Northern Coast of Banka, 224.

CONTENTS. xi

CHAPTER VI.

PAGE

CASPAR STRAIT 227

Choice of Banki, or Gaspar Strait, 227 ; Dangers Southward of Gaspar
Strait, 229 ; Macclesfield Channel, 234 ; Directions, 239 ; Clements
Channel, 244 ; Stolze Channel, 249 ; North-eust Coast of Banka, 260 ;
Dangers North and N.W. of Gaspar Strait, 264 ; Directions, 268.

CHAPTER VII.

CARIMATA STRAIT 271

South Coast of Billiton, 273 ; Islands and Dangers in the Fairway, 275 ;
West Coast of Borneo, 281 ; Directions, 293.

CHAPTER VIII.

BANKA TO SINGAPORE 295

1. Detached Islands and Rocks.

Detached Islands and Rocks, 295 ; Islands, &c., between Borneo and
(Singapore Strait, 304.

2. Rhio Strait 312

General Description, 312; West side of the Strait, 313; East side of the
Strait, 319 ; Directions, 326.

3. Varella and Durian Straits 334

Coast of Sumatra, &c., 334 ; Southern Entrances, 344 ; Directions north-
ward, 350 ; Directions southward, 353.

CHAPTER IX.

THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE 357

North side of the Strait, 358; Raffles Lighthouse, 361 ; South side of the
Strait, 362 ; Directions, 364 ; Singapore, 366 ; Singapore New Harbour,
374 ; Singapore Strait, Eastern Part, 381 ; Horsburgh Lighthouse, 388;
Directions, 390 ; South side of Eastern part of the Strait, 392 ; Direc-
tions, 395.

CHAPTER X.

THE GULF OF SIAM, ETC 400

East Coast of Malay Peninsula, 400 ; East Coast of the Gulf, 412; Bang-
kok, 425.

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XI.

PAGE

THE COAST OF COCHIN CHINA, TON-KING, ETC 428

1. Cochin China, 428 ; Camhodia River, 430 ; Don-nai or Saigoa River,
432 ; Saigon, 437 ; Directions, 438.

2. The Gulf of Ton-King, 456 ; River Lacht Huen, 461 ; Haiphong, 462.

3. Coast of China and Hainan Island, 468 ; Pakhoi, 468 ; Hainan Island,
471 ; Hoihow, 473.

CHAPTER XII.

NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO 481

Tanjong Datu, 481 ; Sarawak or Kuching, 482 ; Bruni River, 490 ; Lahuan,
494 ; Victoria Harhour, 496 ; Ambong Bay, 506.

CHAPTER XIII.

BALABAC STRAIT AND THE ISLANDS NORTH OF BORNEO,

INCLUDING PALAWAN 513

Balamhangan, &c , 513; Banguey South Channel, 517; Balabac Strait,
522 ; North Balabac Strait, 536 ; Palawan West Coast, 539 ; North Coast,
566 ; East Coast of Palawan, 567

CHAPTER XIV.
NORTH-WEST COAST OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 585

Calamianes, 586 ; Mindoro West Coast, 589 ; Luzon S.W. Coast, 594 ;
Manila, 595 -^ Cape Bojeador, 605 ; Pirataa Island and Reef, 606.

CHAPTER XV.

THE CHINA SEA, WITH ITS ISLANDS AND DANGERS 531

Anamba Islands, 610 ; Natuna Islands, 613 ; Shoals on eastern side of Main
Route, 621 ; Islands and Dingers in the Fairway of the Main Route, 631 ;
Paracel Islands and Reefs, 611 ; Macclesfield Bank, 645 ; Palawan Pas-
Ba'j;e, 648 ; Dangers on its western side, 654 ; on the eastern aide, 056 ;
Shual:* uoar the Main Route, 062 ; Shoals near the Palawan Route, 001.

CONTENTS. xiii

PART III.

THE EASTERN PASSAGES.
CHAPTER XVI.

PA&E

JAVA AND THE JAVA SEA 670

Java, 670; North Coast, 672 ; Batavia, 677 ; Saniarang, 693 ; Sourabaj'a,
696 ; Madura Island, 705 ; Madura Strait, 711 ; Probolingo, 715 ; South
Coaat of Java, 718 ; Tjilatjap, 724.

The Java Sea, 735 ^ Thousand Islands, 736 ; South Coast of Borneo, 739.

CHAPTER XVII.

ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF JAVA 742

Baly Island, 742 ; Baly Strait, 748 ; Banjoewangie, 751 ; Lombok Island,
754 ; Alias Strait, 759 ; Sumbawa Island, 761 ; Sapi Strait, 766 ; Man-
garai Strait, 769 ; Floris Island, 769 ; Suinba or Sandalwood Island,
775 ; Strait of Floris, 778 ; Solor Strait, 779 ; Allor or Maurissa Strait,
780; Strait of Pantar, 781; Ombay Passage, 782; Wetta Island,
782 ; Island of Timor, 784 ; Kotti, 7»7.

CHAPTER XVIII.

ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF BORNEO 793;

The Strait of Makassar, 793 ; East Coast of Borneo, 794 ; Island of
Celebes, 801; Makassar, 803; North Coast of Celebe.s, 809; Boeton
Island and Strait, 813; Salayar Island, 817; Postilions and Pater-
nosters, 819.

Molucca Islands, 820 ; Amboina, 825 ; Banda Islands, 829 ; Gunong Api,
832.

The Banda Sea, 834 ; Serwatty Islands, 836 ; Tenimber Islands, 840 ;
Arru Inlands, 841 ; Ki Islands, 846; Arafura S-a, 84iS ; Ceram Laut,
851 ; Western part of the Island of New Guinea, 855 ; Mysole, 858 ;
Pitt Strait, 86u ; Waigiou, 861; Dampier Strait, S62 ; Pitt's Passage,
865 ; Gilolo Passage, 807 ; Gebi, 869.

Halmaheira«r Gilolo, 871 ; Morti, 873 ; The Molucca Islands, 874 ; Ter-
nate, 874 ; ilolucca Passage or Sea, 879.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XIX.

PAGE

ISLANDS NORTH OF THE MOLUCCAS 881

Sangir, 882 ; The Sulu Archipelago, 884 ; Sulu, 889 ; Basilan, 892 ;
The Strait of Basilan, 894.

The Philippine Islands, 895 ; Mindanao, 896 ; Samboanga, 896 ; Samar,
902 ; Strait of San Bernardino, 903 : Ticao, 904 ; Masbate, 905 ; Zebu,
906; Negros, 908; Panay, 909 ; Iloilo, 910 ; Directions, 913.

The Sulu Sea, 916; Snndakan Harbour, 917; Cac:aj'an de Sulu, 918;
Mindoio, 924 ; South Coasts of Luzon, 926 ; East Coast of Luzon, 9^9 ;
Babuyan Islands, 930 ; Bashi Islands, 93.7.

CHINA AND JAPAN.
CHAPTER XX.

THE COAST OF CHINA BETWEEN HAINAN AND HONG KONG 940

Now Chow, 942 ; Naraoa, 946 ; Canton Pavers, 949 ; Macao, 952 ; La-
drones, 954 ; Lema Islands, 960 ; Hong Kong, 9G3 ; Cap-Siug-Mun
Passage, 969; Lintin, 970; Directions for Canton River, 971; Canton
River, 9/9 ; Boca Tigris, 980 ; Whampoa, 983 ; Canton, 988 ; Si-kiang
or West River, 990.

CHAPTEE XXI.

EAST COAST OF CHINA, BETWEEN HONG KONG AND THE

KIVKR MIN 992

Tathong Channel, 992 ; Mirs Bay, 996 ; Bias Baj', 999 ; River Han, 1010 ;
Swatow, 1011; Namoa Island, 1012; Chapel Island Light, 1017;
Amoy, 1019; Quemoy Island, 1023; Chiinmo Bay, 1024; Ocksou
Lighthouse, 1027 ; White Dog Islands, 1030.

CHAPTER XXII.

F(HlMOSA AND THE PESCADORES ISLANDS 1032

Islands South of Formosa, 1033; East Coast of Formosa, 1034; West
Coast of Formosa, 1036; Ta-kau-kon, 1038; Tamsui, 1043; Kelung
Harbour, 1045 ; Islands N.E. of Formosa, 1047 ; Meiaco Sima Group,
1048; Ykima Island, 1051.

Pvacadorus, or Ponghou Archipelago, 10-51 ; Ponghou Harbour, 1054.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

PAGE

RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI lOoG

River Min, 10.5fi ; Fuchan, 1060; Double Peak Island, 1064; Namquan
Bay, 1066; Sheipii Road, 1073; Kweshan Islands, 107-5; Chusan Ar-
chipelago, 1077 ; Chusan Island, 1083 ; Tae-shan Island, 1091 ; Vol-
cano Islands, 1092 ; Gutzlaff Island, 1096.

Yung River, 1098; Ningpo, 1099; Chapu, 1102; Hang-chu.fu, 1103.

The Yang-tse Kiang, 1103; Main or Shawt-ishan Channel, 1106 ; South
Entrance, 1108; Directions for Approaching, 1112; Wusung River,
1117; Shanghai, 1122; Wusung to Hankow, 1126.

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM THE YANG-TSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF 1128

General Description, Winds, &c., 11 28 ; The Yellow River, or Whang Ho,
1131; Shantung Peninsula, 1138; Chifu, or Yentai Harbour, 1142;
Teng-Chau, 1144; Strait of Pe-chili, 1145; Tatsing Ho, 1147; Pei
Ho, 1147 ; Tientsin, 1147.

Gulf of Liau-tung, 11.53; Great Wall, 1153; The Liau-ho, 1154; New
Chwang, 1154; Bittern Shallows, 1158 ; Quang Tung Peninsula, 1159;
The Korea, 1161 ; Port Hamilton, 1162.

CHAPTER XXV.

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO .... 1163

1. General Descrittion 1163

Treaty Ports, 1165; Climate, 1165; The Japanese Current, or Kuro
Siwo, 1167.

2. South and East Coasts of the Archipelago 1168

The Luchu Islands, 1168; A^an Diemen Strait, 1171; South and East
Coasts of Kiusiu and Sikok, 1171 ; South-Kast Coast of Nipon, 1172;
The Bay of Yedo, 1182; Yokohama, 1187; Volcanic Islets S.E. of
Japan, 1192 ; The East Coast of Nipon, 1195.

3. The Seto Uchi or Inland Sea 12oi

The Boungo Channel, 1202 ; The Kii Channel, 1202 ; Lsumi Strait, 1207 ;
Hiogo and Kobe, 1209; Harima Nada, 1211; Bingo Nada, 1213;
Misima Nada, 1216; lyo Nada, 1217; Suwo NaJa, 1218; Simonoseki
Strait, 1218.

The Goto Islands and West Coasts of Kiusiu and Nipon
Goto Islands, 1224 ; Meac Sima Group, 1229 ; Kosiki Islands, 1229
Kagosima Gulf, 1231; Simabara Gulf, 1233; Nagasaki, 1239; Direc
tions from Nagasaki to Simonoseki, 1241 ; West Coast of Nipon, 1244
Port Niegata, 1246; Tsugar Strait, 1248; Hakodadi Harbour, 1250;
Yezo Island, 1253.

1224

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX.

NAMES, MONEY, WEIGHTS, MEASTTRES.

Geographic Terms.— Method of Spelling Oriental Names, 1255.

Malay, Sixgapoue, Etc.— Malay Vocabulary, 1256; Money, 1257; Weights, 1257;
Measures, 1258.

SiAM— Geographic Tfrms, 1258; Money, 1259; Measures of Length, 1259; Capacity,
1260; Weights, 1260.

Cochin China (Anam).— Money, 1260; Measures and Weights, 1261, 1262.

Netherlands' India.— Money, Weights, and Measures, 1262-1264.

North- West Borneo. — Money and Weights, 1264.

Philippine Islands. — Money, Weights, and Measures, 1265.

China.— Glossary of Chinese Words, 1266; Money, 1266; Commercial Weights, 1268;
Measures, 1268.

Japan. — Glossary of Japanese Words, 1269; Money, 1270; Weights, 1270; Measures,
1271.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. Magnetic Variation, Indian Archipelago, with Index to Pages "j

2. „ „ &c. , China and Japan „ „ J

3. Wind Systems, April to September

4. „ October to March

5. Passages in the Indian Archipelago and China Sea

6. Striit of Sunda

7. Straits of Singapore, Durian, and Rhio ...

8. Hong Kong ........

9. Amoy Harbour .......

10. Pescadore Islands - - - - - . *

11. Yokohama Anchorage --..-.

To face Title.

page

151

813

963

1019

1051

1187

TABLE

THE GEOGEAPHICAL POSITION

Lat.
North.

Pagre

STRAIT OF MALACCA.

Eastern Coast.

Pulo Penang ; Fort Cornwallis -
Binding Island, N.W. Id. offK.W. pt.

„ Anchorage off North end

„ Anchorage off S. end -

„ S.E. point

„ Port Pancore ; Police Station
Pulo Katta ...

One-fathom Bank Lighthouse -
Malacca, flagstaff
Pulo Pisang, lighthouse -
Little Carimon Island, summit -

Coast of Sumatra.

Pulo Brasse Lighthouse -

Achin River, East entrance point

Pulo Way, N.AV. extreme

Diamond Point, North extreme -

Prauhila Point, extreme

Lanksa Bay, Ujong Byan, N.W. point

Ujong Tannang, extreme

Dehli River, entrance

Pulo Varela, summit

Point Mattie, outer point

Batu Barra River, entrance

The Brothers, Pulo Pandan

Assarhan River, entrance

Reccan River, Pulo Lalang Besar

Pulo Roupat, Ujong Bantan

Pulo Bucalisse, Tanjong Jati, or N. pt.

Siak River, entrance

Campou River, entrance

24 30
'5 24
14 35

11 40

10 50

12 40
9 10

52 8

11 30
29 o

5 45 o

5 35 35

5 54 iS

5 16 o

4 53 15
4 36 30
4 21 o
3 48 28
3 46 20
3 22 o
14 o
25 5

3
3

3 I
2 12

8 o

36 30
II 30
43 o

100

34 40 1

100

37 55 1

109 59

102

103

123

99 47

100

lOI

102

103

Various.
Bruce, 1875.

Various.

Ward (corrected),

Netherlands Go- 133
vernmeut Sur- 139
vey, 1872-1874

Lieut. Jackson,
I.N., I860*

109
114
114
115
115
114
116
124
130
134
136

139
141
142
143
143
143
145
145
145
146

Rose & Moresby. I 146
146
147
148
148
149

I. ▲.

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

Coast of Java.

Cape Sangian Sira, S.W. extreme

Java Head, extremity

First Point, Lighthouse

Prince's Island, Southern Carpenter rock

„ N.E. point

„ S.W. point •

Second Point, extremity
Panter Reefs, North end
Third Point, North extremity
Fourth Point, Lightho. & Signal Station
Anjer, flRgstaff . . .

Thwart-the-Way, South point
Great M( rak Island, West point
St. Nicholas Point, extreme -

Coast of Sumatra.

Flat Point, West extreme

Little Fortune Island, East point

Rada Point, East extreme

Keyser Island, or Labuan, S.E. end

Borne, fort ...

Kalang Bayang Harbour, Klappa Island

Tikoes Point, extreme

Telok Betong, Light column -

Lagoendy Island, West extreme

„ Soengal Id., S.E. pt. -

Krakatoa Island, peak 2.623 feet
Bezee Island, peak 2,825 feet -
Sebuko Island, peak 1,416 ft. -
Hog Point or Varkenshoek, extreme
Zutphen Islands, Hout Island, S.E. pt. -
St room Rock - - .

Winsor Rock, 2f fathoms
Pulo Logok ...

North Island, centre

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND
BANKA STRAIT.

East Coast of Sumatra.

Jason Rock

North "Watcher Island, Liirhthouse

South Brother Island, South point

Swallow Rock - . .

Lynn Bank . _ .

Brfiuwers Reefs, North reef -

Clifton Reef

Comara ileef - . .

Ocean Mail Reef - . .

Arend Bank, 4| fathoms

Boreas Bank, 6 fathoms

City of Carlisle Bank, South end

52 o
46 40

44 30
41 o

30 45
36 15

37
44
27

3 10
59 30
55 45
52 33

58 30
55 45
57 30
51 30
32 20
46 8

49 o
28 10

50 45
50 o

9 o

57 40

53 15

55 20

54 20

56 10

53 30
48 o
42 o

25 o

13 30
10 25

17 40

4 45
56 o

4 49 30
4 18 o

3 45 o
3 44 o

3 58 30

Lonp.
East.

Authorities.

105

14 45 1

105

106

104

104 53

104

3»

105

106

Dutch Surveys
1874.

Dutch Charts.

Bullock.

Wilds.

Bullock.

Dutch Charts.

Various.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
South.

Long.
East.

Authorities.

Page

Banka Strait.

, *

, /,

Lucipara Island . . -

3 13 o

106 13

Stanton.

192

,. Point ...

3 13 30

106 3 30

192

Eerste or First Point

2 59

106 2 30

192

Tweede or Second Point

2 41

105 46 20

>»

193

Derde or Third Point

2 23

105 36

194

Vierde or Fourth Point

2 20

105 13

195

Batakarang Point - . -

2 I

104 50

198

Baginda Point ...

3 4 40

106 44

• )

199

Toboe All Fort

3 48

106 27 23

201

Nangka Islands, West Rock -

2 22 53

105 44 50

205

Monopin Hill ...

2 I 45

105 n

207

Kalian Point, Lighthouse

250

105 7 50

210

Lucipara Lightve.-sel

3 7 30

106 5 40

219

Banka, N. Coast, Melalu Point

I 30 10

105 37 50

Various.

225

„ Highest peak of Gu-

nong Marass

I 51

105 52

225

„ Crassok Point

I 28 30

105 56 30

226

GASPAR STRAIT.

Hancock Shoal ...

3 34 20

107 4

American Survey

229

Hippogriffe Shoal ...

3 33

106 53 40

Wilds.

229

Turtle Shoal

3 33

107 5 40

230

Larabe Shoal ...

3 33

107 10

American Survey

230

Sand Island ...

3 29

107 9 20

230

Middle Reef

3 27 30

107 10 20

230

Branding Breakers ...

3 26

107 9 30

>»

230

Fairlie Rock ...

3 27 15

106 59

230

Shoal Water Island

3 19 30

107 II 45

230

Eiiibleton Rock

3 17 20

107 10

231

Entrance Point ...

3 I 40

106 53 10

234

Pulo Lepar, light . . -

5 26 30

106 55

235

Pulo Leat, Jelaka, light

2 50 30

107 I 30

>»

236

Brekat Point ...

2 34

106 50

238

Akbar Shoal ...

2 39

107 II

Akhar, 1843.

238

Tree Island ...

2 27 30

106 57

American Survey

238

Gaspar Island, peak

2 24 45

107 3 20

239

Low Island, centre . - -

3 2 15

107 7 45

245

Saddle Island, centre

3 r 40

107 9 10

245

South Island, centre

300

107 12 40

>»

245

Table Island, centre

300

107 15

245

Hewett Shoal ...

2 53 20

107 10 40

246

Pulo Leat, S.E. point

2 54 30

107 4

247

Heroine Shoal, douUful

3 37

107 45 30

>»

250

Carnbee Rocks . . -

3 33 30

107 39

250

Selio Island, South point

3 14

107 30

251

Six Islands, Ross Island

350

107 20

252

Table or Klemar Island, summit

300

107 15

252

Hoog or High Island, centre -

2 51 5

107 19

253

Tanjong Bienga, extreme

2 34 40

107 37

253

N.E. Coast of Banka, Etc.

Totawa Bank, Pulo Bocar - - J

2 14

106 31

J. Robinson.

260

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
South.

Horse Eock . . -

Fathool Barie Shoal, 2^ fathoms
Djederika ShoaJ, 3 feet
Palmer Eeef . - .

Tanjong Eiah ...

Dangers North and N.W. of Gaspar
Strait,

Canning Rock ...

Pare Joie ...

Belvedere Shoals, S.W. end -

Dutch Shoal

Magdalen Reef ...

Laniick or Newland Reef

Actfeon Rock . „ -

Scheweningen Shoal

CARniATA STRAIT.

Kebatoe or Shoe Island
"White Island . - .

Zephyr Rock - . .

Karang Kawat, North Reef -
„ South Reef -

Katapang Island - - .

Scharvogel Islands, East Island
Discovery West Bank

,, Reef - . .

,, East Bank
Lavender Bank . . .

Cirencester Shoal - . .

Bower Shoal . . .

Osterly South Shoal

Cirencester Bank - - .

IMontaran Islands, East Island
Catherine or Evans Reef
Ontario Reef, centre
Soruetou Island, West point -
Carimata Island, peak
Greig Shoal, 8 feet spot
Columbus Shoal . . _

West Coast of Borneo.

Sambar Point - - .

Mount Minto - . .

Succadana, centre of bay

Pontianak River, entranee

Tanjong INlampawa, extreme -

Piilo Sitendang, centre

Pulo Baroe, centre - . .

Tanjong Batoe Blad, W. extr. of Borneo

Sambas River, South point of entrance

Tanjong Api ...

Fox Shoal, West Rock •

Ckmencia lieef - . .

14 30
4 o
59 o
54 o
52 o

2 22 40
2190
2 14 30
2 10 40
I 59 o
I 50 40

I 39 48
I 19 12

106 34 o
ro6 27 o
106 28 o
106 27 30
106 14 o

107 13 o

107 3 o

106 59 o

106 44 o

106 59 30

106 37 58

106 39 48

3 47 45
3 48 50
3 48 20

3 42 40

3 44 10

3 23 20

3 17
3 38

3 35 45

3 34 40

3 24 5

3 14 30

3 28 45

3 19

3 14 30

2 29

2 31 30

2 I 45

I 42

I 35 40

53 30

2 56 30

2 14

I 12 30
North.

020

36 15

47 35

I II

I 56 36

South.

3 32

3 24

4 o
3 20
3 10

7 30
08 6 5

07 55 30

08 28 o
08 44 30

08 49 25

09 12 35
09 I 30
08 59 o
08 40 30
08 37 o
08 59 o
08 51 40
08 54 30
08 39 o
08 42 o
08 52 30
08 28 o
08 16 o

110 14 o

no 3 40

no o 10

109 10 o

108 54 o

108 43 o

108 43 40

108 50 10

108 59 o

109 20 24

J. Robinson.

Varioua.

Boss.

1 10
1 10

7 45
7 45

Ward.
Scheweningen, 1870

H.M.S. Nassau,
1876.

Dutch Survey.

H.M.S. Nassau,
1876.

H.M.S. Stjlvia,\^Ti
Dufch Survey.
H.M.S. Sylvia,

1874.
Dutch Surrey

Croot, 1869.

Dutch Survey.
Reed.

»>
Various.

>)
»

Sir E. Belcher.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXI'

Page

Mankap Island - - -

Kumpal Island, West point
Toekan Menskoedoe (Gilbert Rocks)
Birds' Nest Islands, Boorong Island
Ginting Island ...
Pyramid Island, centre .
Tallack Shoal -
Maleden or filaleidong Island
Panambungun Island, West point
Masien Tiega Islands, West Island

BANKA STRAIT TO SINGAPORE.

Toejoe Island, S.E. point

Pule Joe . . - .

Docan Island, centre

Totj' Island, centre

Taya Island, centre

Ilchester Bank, centre -

Pulo Sinkep, Boekoe or South point

Linga Island, Diang or East point

Linga, Dyak Town

East Domino, centre

Kintar Island, South high bluff.
Rodong Island, peak
Frederick iieef, centre .
Gin or Great Islmd, Pulo Terobi
Geldria Banks, Boat Rocks
Pido Panjang, Passage Rock
Bintang Island, Brakit point

Islands between Borneo and Singa.
PORE Strait.

Dntu Island, peak ...

Direction Island . - -

Si. Barbe Island, N.E. hill
Welstead Shoal ....
St. Esprit Group, S.E. Island .
S.W. Island .
„ Head Island, S. point

,, Hill on South end of

largest island ....
Green Island, centre . - -

Ro iger Rock - . . -

Tambelan Island, highest peak -

„ North end, Observa.

tory Station ....
Europe Shoal, 3-fathom patch -
Rocky Islets, northern - - .

Gap Rock, summit ...

St. Julian Island, summit
Camels Hump Island, summit -
Saddle Island „ . .

Barren Island „ - -

Victory Island ,, -

St. I'ierre Rock « - -

4 30
47 40
14 20
43
41
29 30
21
31
12

54 30

1 9 10
1 1.5 40

58
54
43 30
24 30
39 50
14 20
13 40
6
North.
2 40
24 12
37
42 40

49 40

1 1 30
1 14 30

10 G

14 39

8 6

SO 45

33 1.5

35 44

37 31
44 43

41 15

1 1 5

1 27
1 11 19
1 11 9
1 12 30

55 40

1 11 46
1 19 21
1 31 50
1 34 46
1 51 42

110 13

110 1 60

109 57

109 17 30

109 4

108 59

109 6
109 21
109 9

109 12 30

105 20
105 16 20
105 38 30
105 45 45
104 54
104 57
104 22
104 58
104 33 30
104 68 20

104 46

104 26 36

105 9
104 48
104 56 45
104 51 30
104 35

108 35 50
108 1 53
107 13 30
107 63
107 8 30

106 58 15

107 4 41

107 50
107 18 52
107 31 12
107 32 22

107 24 10
107 25 27
107 13
107 34 20
106 43 30

106 52 58

107 2 17
106 25 35
106 18 40

108 38 57

Dutch Survey.

M. D. Tallack.
Dutch Survey.

Various.

Tizard.

Stanton.

Reed.

Belcher.

xxu

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
North.

Authorities.

RHIO STRAIT.

West Side.

Missana Island, North point

Niamok, South point

Rodong Peak . - -

Binan Island, South point

Selanga Islands, largest -

Oedik Island ...

Pulo Rondo or Dumpo -

East Bank, 10-feet patch

Little Gurras Island, lighthouse -

Moeboet Island, East point

Sembolang Point, extreme

Little Tiemara Island, N.E. end

Sau Island, lighthouse on East point

Malang Orang Shoal, centre

Pan Reef Beacon, North end

Little Pan Reef, centre -

East Side.

Talang Island, West point
Siolon or Mantang Island, S.W. hill
Rotterdam Reef . . -

Pankel Island, South summit
Dompa Island, West point
Rhio, Fort Crown Prince
Terkolei Island, lighthouse
Isabella Shoal, West end
Little Loban Island, West point
Bintang Island, West point

„ Subong Point, Andying Id.

VARELLA & DURIAN STRAITS.

Tanjong Jaboeng, or Cape Bon, extreme
Varella or Brahalla I., summit -
Pollux Rock . . . .

Sinkep Island, Boekoe or South point -
Speke Rock . . . .

Atkin Rock ....

Alang Tiga Group, South Island
Basso or Bakauw Point, extreme

Baroe or Date Point, extreme -

Ponoebo Island, West end

Leda Rock - - - .

Irene Rock, doubtful ...
Allor Island - . . .

Great Abang, North end
Potona: Island, South end
South Brother, centre ...
Fiilse Durian, East point
Little Durian, South point

26 20
20 20
24 15
27 32
30 8
32 10
36 10
40 35
44 30
49 15
51 30

56 45

1 3 6
1 8 30
1 9 45
1 11 12

43 30
44 45
45 25
49 30
52 40
56 36
57 10
57 30

58 55

1 4 5
1 10 55

South.
58
48 10
43 10
38
33 30
30
29 50
19
North.
45
South.
17
North.
12
24 5
27 50
36 20
36 10
33 30
37 20
43 25

104 31
104 33 45
104 26 35
104 27 50
104 21 30
104 18 20
104 18 30
104 21 5
104 22 18
104 18 12
104 16 12
104 12 25
104 11 6
104 9 40
104 11 25
104 9 18

104 36
104 31
104 25 25
104 21 40
104 25
104 26 35
104 20 25
104 15 15
104 13 35
104 13
104 18 36

104 22 10
104 24
104 29
104 22
104 6
l(/4 3
104 2

103 45 10

103 47 10

104 23 10

104

103 45 40
103 41 50
103 39 50

Reed and Tizard

Van Carnbee,
Stanton, &c.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Polphin Isl.'tnd, summit

Sabon Island, Decpwater Point -

Tiittle Carimon Island, N.E. point

Pulo Doncan, centre

Tree Island, centre ; beacon proposed

THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE.

Tanjong Bolus or Baru, extreme
Carimon Islands, North Brother

„ Little Carimon, N.E. point
Coney Island, Raffles lighthouse •
SINGAPORE, Fort FuUerton -
Bintang Great HiU
Barbukit Hill, summit 645'feet -
Pedra Branca, Horsburgh lighthouse

THE GULF OF SIAM.

Malay Peninsula, East Coast.

Pulo Eu -

Pulo Tingy, summit ...

Pulo Aor, South peak 180.5 feet -

Pulo Pemangil, South peak

Pulo Varela ....

Howard Shoal - . - -

Pulo Brala ....

Pulo Kapas, S.W. point

Kalantan, entrance of small river East of

Kalantan River ...

Great Redang Island, Bukit Mara

„ peak

Turtle-back Island, South side -
Baltu Rackil Rock, centre
Cape Patani, N.E. point
Singora, S.W. point of Pulo Ticos
Koh Krah, S.E. point -
Pulo Obi, Square rock on S.W. point -
Pulo Panjang, N. W. corner of S.W. bay
Pulo Way, South extreme of sandy bay,

near middle of N.E. side of W, island
Koh Tang or Koh Prins, South rock of

group - - - - _ -

Tanqualah, North point of middle island

of group - - . -

Condor Reef . - . .

False Pulo Obi, West side
Teeksou Island, N.W. side
Pulo Dama, Rocky Island on E. Side -
Water Island (Tianmoi) W. point
Rockj^ Island, Kamput, centre -
Kusrovie Rock, centre . . -

1 10

1 8 40

1 16 10

1 11 50

1 10

1 9 50

I 17 20

1 4 20

1 24 20

1 20

7
18
26 30
34 30
18
17
49
13 1

6 11 53
6 44 21
5 48 16

5 49 40

6 40 36

6 58 1

7 13 54

8 24 47

8 25 37

9 18 14

9 55 11

10 21 20

10 15 24

10 43

8 56 43

9 57 12
9 41 54

10 24 44

10 27 58

11 6 25

103 38 40

103 32 20

103 23

103 43

103 40

103 30
103 20 45
103 23
103 44 50

103 51 18

104 27 20
104 12 20
104 24 30

104 17

104 9

104 34 15

104 22

103 38

103 38 30

103 38

103 16 4

102 20 47

103 1 39

103 48

102 37 9
101 43 56

101 18 39
100 36 12
100 45 27

104 48 49

103 29 14

102 53 29

102 56 34

103 8 49

102 61

104 31 33
104 49 10
104 21 29

103 47 4

104 11 55
102 47 49

Thompson and
others.

Thompson.

Various.

Richards.

Lieut. Veron.
Richards.

Xxiv

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Long
East.

Ellen Bangka Shoal - - -

Koh Kong, South point of river en-
trance - - - - -
Koh Chang, small island on W. side
Chentabun River, entrance, Kho Chula,
or Bar Island - - - -
Koh Samit, Brown rock, off Lena Ya -
Koh Luem, peak . - -
Cape Liant, N.W. rock of Koh Mesan -
Koh Si-chang, S.W. point of Koh Kam
Bangkok Kiver, pile lighthouse -
Bangkok, Old British factory -
Maconchisi . _ . -

COAST OF COCHIN CHINA,
TONG KING, ETC.

Oape St. James, lighthouse
S ligon. Observatory
Kega Point . . -

Cape Padaxan . . -

Cape Varela . - -

Cape San-ho - - -

Pulo Canton ...
Cape Touron ...
Touron Bay, Observatory island
Cape Choumay, extreme
Eiver Hue, extreme

Gulf of Tong King.

Cape Lay . . . .

Tseu or Goat Island - - .
Matt Island . -

Lacht Kouenn - . . -
Mfe Island, centre . . .
Ne Island . . . .
Lacht Huen River, Houdau Island light-
house - - - . .
Haiphong . . . -
Gowtow Island, South point
Cape Pahklung . . - -
Pakhoi . . - . -
Cape Cami . - - .

Hainan Island,

Hainan Head

Hoi How town, N.W. end

Pyramid Point -

Cape Bastion

Tinhosa Island, South end

O II

11 11

11 33

12 1 20

12 27 43

12 30 32

12 57 30

12 35 8

13 9 56

13 29 26

13 44 20

13 39

10 19 14

10 46 39

10 42

11 21

12 §5

13 44

15 24

16 8

16 7

16 21

16 35 30

17 6

18 8

18 54 30

19 4 30

19 21

19 52

20 37 30

20 49

107 44 30

21 31

21 28 57

20 13

20 12

20 4 30

18 55

18 9 30

18 39 30

102 47

102 57 14

102 15 49

102 4 19

101 26 39

100 38 59

100 56 52

100 49 22

100 35 20

100 28 42

100 11

107 5 25

106 42 31

107 59 40

108 58

109 24 80
109 14
109 6
108 21
108 17
108 3
107 42

107 7 30

106 17 10

105 56

105 43 9

105 55 30

106

106 49 30

106 40

20 50

108 17

109 6 40
109 55

110 44 30

110 19

108 21 30

109 33

110 42

Ellen BangJca,

1870.
Richards.

Reed.

French charts.

British & French

partial surveys

to 1877.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXV

i.at.

Lon?.

North.

East.

Authorities.

Page

N.W. COAST OF BORNEO.

Tanjong Api ....

°1 56 36

109 20 24

Belcher.

48C

Tanjong Datu ....

2 5 15

109 39 13

Reed.

48C

Sarawak River, Santubong entrance,

Kra Island ....

1 42

110 18

Bflcher.

48C

Cape Sipang ....

1 48 2

110 20

48f

Po Point Light ....

1 43 10

110 31 30

481

Tanjong Barram ...

2 36 15

1'3 58 35

Reed.

48F

Gunung Malu, summit ...

4 5 20

114 55 8

Bplcher.

4S8

Bruni Bluff, extreme ...

5 3

115 3 20

Gordon.

490

Bruni River, palace ...

4 52 40

114 55 20

49(J

Labuan Group, Victoria Harbour, Ram-

Mean of Belcher,

sey point flugstaff ...

5 16 33

115 15 15

Richards, &Reed.

49f

Mangalum Island, S.W. point -

6 10 40

116 35 20

Gordon.

50a

North Furious Shoals, 11 fathoms

7 3 19

116 18 15

Reed.

510

South Furious Shoals, 7 fathoms

6 48 30

116 14 45

510

Batomande Rocks ...

6 52 42

116 36 24

Belcher.

511

BALABAC STRAIT.

Balambangan Island, South point

7 12 20

116 51 40

Reed, 1868-9.

513

„ Tiga Islet, centre

7 21 12

117 2 50

514

Banguey Peak, 1876 feet

7 18 10

117 5 20

51.5

Lit. MoUeangan Island, centre -

7 5 25

117 1 30

516

Mallawalle, South extreme

7 1 45

117 IS 10

518

Balabac Island, South point

7 48 40

117 1

518

Calandorang Bay Lt. on S. pt. of entr. -

7 59

117 4 20

5i6

S. Mangsee Island, centre

7 31 5

117 18 20

531

Lumbucan, N.W. extreme

7 50 20

117 12 50

534

Nasubatta Island ...

8 1 45

117 9 50

53.5

Secam Island, East end ...

8 10 40

117 1 35

536

Palawan Island — West Coast.

Cape Buliluyan, S. extreme of Palawan

8 20 25

117 9 41

Bate.

53S

Capyas Island ....

8 26 25

117 10 16

54G

Caneepaan River, entrance

8 34 40

117 14 41

640

Bulanhow Mountain, highest part

8 36 25

117 21 11

540

Cape Seeacle ....

8 36 30

117 14 1

541

Pagoda Cliff; highest part

8 43 45

117 29 6

541

Balansungain Islands, "West island

8 45 35

117 21 21

541

Mantaleengahan Mountain, highest part

8 49 22

117 39 26

542

Illaan Hill ....

8 55 10

117 31 41

542

Pampangduyang Point - . -

8 57 40

117 31 56

542

Gantung Peak, highest part

8 57 53

117 47 56

542

Eran Quoin, highest part

9 3 25

117 38 56

542

Bivouac Islet, North extreme -

9 4 52

117 42 28

543

Pu-lute Peak, highest part

9 8 8

117 56 11

543

Malapakkun Island, highest part

9 14 50

117 50 11

543

Tay-bay-u Bay, entr. of Malanut R.

9 14 50

117 59 46

544

Victoria Peak, 5,680 ft., highest part -

9 22 30

118 17 26

545

Palm Islet, highest part

9 22 40

118 1 48

545

Long Point, West extreme

9 38 8

118 19 6

546

Anipahan, huts ....

9 43 50

118 27 11

647

I. A.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
North.

Long
East.

Authorities.

Page

Thamb Peak, highest part of range

°9

47 45

118 35 26

Bate.

547

Hen and Chickens, largest islet -

58 23

118 36 16

547

Ulugan Bay, Observatory Head-

6 11

118 46 26

547

Cleopatra Needle, highest part of range -

7 38

118 59 16

551

Mount Peel, highest part

118 32 26

551

Cape Sangbowen ...

11 45

118 47 56

551

Jib-boom Bay, Zoe islet -

20 20

118 57 11

l»

551

May-day Bay, watering place -

24 22

119 1 56

»>

551

Port Barton, Bubon point

29 19

119 5 37

553

Pagdanan Point ...

119 13 21

553

Bold Head, highest point

35 10

119 6 56

552

AVedge Island „ -

43 35

119 11 44

554

Mount Capoas, highest p irt -

48 10

119 16 56

554

Cape Capoas, extreme ...

51 38

119 12 6

554

Malampaya Pound entrance. Round Islet

59 25

119 14 16

555

Pirate Bay, Look-out Hill, highest part

56 10

119 16 26

557

Pancol Village, Stockade

52 9

119 22 56

560

Baulao Village „ -

46 15

119 26 4

56'0

Bacuit Baj', Old Village

2 30

119 24 56

563

Bacuit Village, or Talan-dac, Stockade -

119 22 56

563

The Horn, Matinloc, highest part

119 16 41

562

Tapiutan Island „

12 50

119 15 18

562

Cadlao, or Table Top Id. „

13 6

119 21 1

564

High Table Range „

14 45

119 27 50

566

North extreme of Palawan, highest part

of Cabuli Island ...

26 25

119 29 46

567

Palawan— East Coast.

Ursula Island, West end

20 42

117 29 56

568

Rocky Bay, Pirate Inlet

117 32 31

568

Tac-bo-lu-bu, entrance of rivulet

43 21

117 44 26

569

Point Sir James Brook - . .

117 48 46

569

Nose Point ....

117 59 11

569

East Island, N.W. extreme

53 45

118 13 56

570

Ma-la-nut Mound ...

9 15

118 2 41

570

Casuarina Point - . . .

118 24 16

571

30th of June Island, highest part

22 30

118 33 56

572

Port Royalist, Fresh Water Rivulet

entrance ....

34 30

118 40 6

573

„ Tide-pole Point

43 43

118 43 3

673

Deep Bay, Anchorage Island, N.E. end -

56 30

118 bo 19

575

Bold Point ....

1 45

119 8 56

575

Green Island Bay, Relief Point -

9 45

118 12 1

677

Barbacan Village, Stockade

21 45

119 23 1

577

Mount Baring, 2,100 feet

24 55

119 32 56

577

Ulan Village ....

25 12

119 34 31

578

Dumaran Island, East extr. Pirate Hd. -

34 40

120 11

679

„ Village, fort - . .

119 45 51

579

Carlandagan Island, highest part

120 14 56

d«0

Barren Island, Watering Bay -

119 41 36

580

Tai-Tai Village, fort -

119 30 56

681

Silanga Village, Stockade

1 45

119 33 46

582

Broken Island, highest part

7 25

119 44 41

584

Santa Monica Village, Stockade

119 33 41

584

East peak, highest part - -

17 40

119 31 31

584

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXVll

COASTS OF PHILIPPINE
ISLANDS, ETC.

Ol)8ervatory Island, West side -
Green Island ...
Haycock Island . - -

Calarite Island - . -

N.W. Rock

North Eock ...
Hunter Shoal ...
Merope Shoal ...
Mangarim Bay, Sandy Tongue -
Garza Bay, Garza Island
Appo Island ...
Menor Island ...
Paluan Bay, beach
Cape Calavite ...
Looc Bay, Lubang Island
Fortun Island ...
Cabra Island, S.E. extreme
Pulo Caliallo lighthouse
Cavite Port, Naval head quarters
MANILA, N. pier lighthouse

,, Cathedral
Capon es Point - - -

Port Sual
Dile Point
Cape Bojeador ...

Scarborough Shoal, S.W. extreme
Pratas Island, N.E. end
„ Reef, N.E. point

THE CHINA SEA, WITH ITS
ISLANDS AND DANGERS.

AxAMBA Islands.

White Eock
Repon Island
Domar Island
Guerite high rock -

Natuna Islands.

Marundum Island -

South Haycock Island

Serai or West Island

Low Island

Jackson Eeef

North Haycock Island

Selu:in Island

I'yramidal Rocks

Success Reef

Si.mione or Saddle Island

11
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
13
13
13
14
13
14
14
14
14
14
16
17
18

30 16

21 30
24 15
28
40
43 30
20
12 26

39 10

40
23 30
26
43 48

2 45
52 30

22 30

23 55
36 24
36 3
54

7 20
34 30
30

1.5 6 44
20 42 30
20 47

2 20
2 25

2 45

3 29

119 39 33
119 47
119 48
119 53 30

119 52

120 1 30
120 13 10

120 17

121 2 8
121 10 50
120 26 10
120 28
120 29 18
120 18
120 16
120 28 34
120 2 30
120 36
120 54 54
120 57 20
120 58 8
120 3
120 2 44

Spanish Surveys
to 1871.

Belcher.

Various.

Bate.

Various.

Belcher.

Villaviciencio.
Various.

120 20 30

120 34

117 44 3

116 43 22

116 53

105 34
105 52

105 25

106 12 20

586
587
587
587
588
588
588
588
589
589
590
590
591
592
592
594
593
596
598
598

„ 598

601

K.'M.S.Mafficienne, 603

Various. 604

605

Wilds&Stanley. ' 606
Richards. ■ 606
606

Various.

2 4

109 7 20

2 17

108 55 15

2 40

108 35

107 48

2 56

107 55

3 17

107 34 30

4 9

107 50

4 3

107 21 45

4 22

107 55

4 31

lf7 42 30

610
611
611
612

614
614
616
616
616
618
619
619
620
620

XXVIU

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Authorities.

Eastern Side of Main Route.

Vanguard Bank, S.W. extreme
Grainger Bank, centre
Prince Consort Bank, S.W. extreme
Prince of Wales Bank, centre
Alexandra Bank, 3-fathoms patch
]iifleman Bank, 11 -feet patch, N.E. end
Ladd Beef, East extreme
Spratlj' Island, centre
West London Reef, Sandy cay
Central London Reef, centre -
East London Reef, East end -
Cuarteron Reef, East extreme
Fiery Cross or X.W. Invcbtigator Reef,
S.W. end - - -

Discovery Great Reef, South end

„ Small Reef
Western or Flora Temple Reef, centre -
Tizard Bank, Outer edge of West Reef -
Itu Aba Island ...
,, Eldad Reef, N. extreme
„ S.W. extreme, Gaven Reefs -
Loai-ta or South Island, K.W. extreme -
Soubie Reef, S.W. end
Thi-tu Island, tree on S.W. end
Trident Shoal, centre of patch at North
extreme ...

Lys Shoal, 17-feet patch
J^orth Danger Reef, tree on N.E. cay -

Main Route.

Charlotte Bank, 8 fathoms
Scawfell Shoal . . -

Banda Shoal ...

Jjarge Island of Pulo Condure Group,

Landing-place in Great Bay
Brothers Islands, West Island
Royal Bi.'.hop Bank, 10 fathoms
Raglan Bank ...

Pulo Sapatu, summit
Julia Shoal ...

Great Catwick Island
Little Cat wick Island, summit
Yusun Shoal ...

Pulo Cticer de Mer, S.W. hill
Holland Bank, centre patch -

Paracel Islands and Reefs —

Triton Island ...
Bombay Shoal, S.W. extreme
l*yraniid Rock . . _

Lincoln Island, S.E. point -
Passoo Keah Island
Discovery Shoal, West extreme
Vuliddore Shoal, centre
()b.«ervation Bank

Amphitrite I.slands, E. extreme of reef
Woody Island ...
Rocky Island - . .

Korth Shoal, East extreme -

7 16 30
7 47 4.5

7 46

8 8 30
8 I 30

7 55 20

8 40 15
8 38
8 52
8 55 30
8 49 38

8 50 54

9 32
10 42
10 I 30
10 15
10 13 20
10 22 25
10 23
10 13 20
10 40 45

10 53 30

11 3 9

11 31 30
11 19 40
11 28

7 7 15

7 19

8 40 57

8 34

9 40
24

58 23
56 30

2 56

59 30
10 16
10 32 36
10 39

15 46

15 59

16 34
16 39 34
16 6
16 11 40
16 18
16 36
16 54
16 50 30

16 52

17 6 30

109 26

110 29

109 55

110 32 30

110 36 45

111 42
111 41

111 54 30

112 14 45
112 20
112 37 26
112 49 34

112 53

113 51

114 1

113 37

114 13
114 21
114 42
114 13
114 24 54
114 4
114 16 25

114 39 15
114 34 24
114 20 45

107 37 15

106 51

107

106 36

106 11

108 14

109 26

109
109
108
1(19
109

9
55

108 56 30
108 43

111 11

112 26
112 36
112 44
111 46

111 33

112 2

111 40 30

112 22
112 19
112 19 30
111 32 30

Ward.

Reed.

Ward.

Reed.

Thompson.
Banda, 1871.

Wilds k Reed.
Various.
Reed.

Jaclmel, 1875.
Reed.

Ross,

AVard.
Ross.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
North.

Authorities.

SI. Esprit Shoal, centre
Helen Shoal, centre

Shoals in Palawan Passage.

South Lugonia Shoals, Luconia Breakers
North „ Seahorse Breakers

„ „ N. part of Friend-

ship Shoal . . .

Louisa Shoal, S.W. rock
Vernon Bank, centre of Fuiy Rocks

„ 2|-fathom8 patch

Samarans: Bank, centre
Saracen Bank, centre
Koj'al Charlotte Shoal
Viper Shoal, doubtful
North Viper Shoal, South end
Commodore Reef, centre

On the Western Side.

Half-Moon Shoal, Inclined rock on East
side - - . .

Ro3-al Captain Shoal, Observation Rock,
at North extreme

Bombay Shoal, Madagascar Rock, on
N.E. extreme ...

Carnatic Shoal, centre

On the Eastern Side.

Herefordshire Shoal, centre -
Scaleby Castle Shoal, centre -
York I3reakers, centre
Crescent Reef, centre

Shoals West of Palawan Route.

Owen Shoal

Amboyna Cay

Lizzie Webber Shoal

Stags Shoal, doubtful

Pearson Reef

Swallow Reef, eastern high rock

Dallas Breakers

Ardasier, South Breakers

Gloucester Breakers

Ardasier Breakers

Investigator Shoal, West point

Cay Marino (?)

Amy Douglas Shoal

Fairy Queen Shoal -

Coral Bank, 12 fathoms

Routh Shoal, North extreme -

Seahorse, North extreme

Saudy Shoal

Templer Bank, centre

19 33
19 12

5 3 24
5 31 o

59 30
19 45
43 30
49 20

35 15

7 30
57 o
30 o

59 o

8 20 30

8 51 45

9 I 45

9 26 7
[o 6 o

8 35 o
950

9 53 30
10 40 o

880

7 51 45
840

8 24 o
8 56 o

23 o

38 o

34 o

50 o

56 o

850

8 30 o

10 52 o

10 39 o

11 26 o
10 50 o

10 50 o

11 2 O

II 7 o

133 2 O

"3 53 39

tI2 41 36

112 34 O

112 31 30

113 18 30

"5 2 15

"5 5 50

"4 53 45

115 20 30

"3 35 15

115 o o

115 23 o

115 25 o

116 16 45

116 39 36

116 56 4

117 21 o

116 59 19

117 17 II

118 8 26
118 42 26

I" 59
"2 55
113 12

"2 57

"3 44

113 50

"3 54

114 9

114 15
114 2
114 31
114 21

116 25

"7 38
"6 53

117 46
117 46

"7 37
117 13

Reed.

Bate.
Reed.

Richards.

Horsburgh.

Various.

Bate.

Horsburgh.

Bate.

Various.

Ward.

Chart.

Horsburgh.

Pearson.

Reed.

Dallas.

Various.

Doubtful.

Crawford.

.. (•)

Pensberry,

Chart.

Reed.

Chart.

Templer.

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL TOSITIONS.

Lat.
South.

JAVA AND THE JAVA SEA.
JAVA, NoETH Coast.

!St. Nicholas Point, extreme -

Pulo Panjang, N.W. Point -

Ponlang Point, North extreme

Pulo Babi, centre - - -

Bantam, flagstaff of fort

Menschen-eter Id., Lighthouse proposed

Ontong Java, extreme of point

Onrust Island, flagstaff

Great Kombuvs, bright It. on N.W. pt.-

BATAVIA, Observatory and Timeball -

Krawang Point, extreme

Pamanoekan Point, extreme -

Indramayoe Point, North extreme

Eackit or Boompjes Island, lighthouse -

Cape Tanna - - -

Cheribon, lighthouse

Cheribon Peak, summit 10,323 ft.

Tegal Peak, summit 1 1 ,300 ft.

Tegal, flagstaff of fort

Pekalongan, lighthouse West of entrance

Samarang, flagstaff -

lapara Koad, anchorage

Karimon Java Island, settlement on
Great Karimon . - -

Kembang, flagstaff - - -

Panka Point, flagstaff
Soerabaya Strait, Lightvessel at N. end
Kresik, light on pier-head
Soerabay;i Strait, Fort Krfprins
Soerabaya, Marine Establishment, time-
ball . . - .
Madura Island, Wodon or N.W. point -

„ East point

Bawean or Lubeck Island, Alang Alang,
or S.W. point . . -

Milton Rock

Hastings Rock . . -

Nahmen's or Osterling Rock -
Arrogant Reef . - .

Giliang or Pondi Island, East point
iSapoedie Island, West point -
Gili Lawak, or Turtle Island, centre
Sumanap, flagstaff - - -

Kangeang Island, Katapan or N.W. pt.
Kamirian or Urk Island, centre
Karang Takat Bank, N.W. dry Bank -
Kambing or Bukken Island, centre
Koko Reef, Lighthouse
Katapang or Krabbrn Island, centre
Proliolingo, flai;staff
Mount Lamoiigan or Belierang, 6,824 ft.
Bezoekie, flagstaff - - -

Mount Ringit . . -

Panarukan, flagstaff
Cape Tjina, North extreme
Capo Sedano, N.E. Point of Java
Meinders Droogte, Lighthouse

52 33

55 30

56 50
48 45

1 39

57 42
3 2

2 20

55 30

8 o

57 o
12 o

12 30
54 o
30 o

45 30

54 o

13 30
54 o
54 30
57 20
32 30

53 30
40 30

54 o
57 o

9 30

Long.
East.

7 15 20

6 55 40
6 59 o

54 o

44 o

7 o

33 o

12 o

59 o

5 20

12 20

2 30

50 30

4 15

o o

19 36

28 o

41 o

43 30
o 30

43 45

44 20

43 30
38 o

49 o
41 30

06 2 10
06 7 32
06 16 o
06 16 o
06 8 48
06 30 25
06 40 20
06 43 40
06 34 30

06 48 7

07 I 7

07 45 30

08 17 37
08 20 o
08 31 30
08 34 30

08 24 30

09 13 3

09 8 7

09 39 o

o 24 37

o 37 30

28 o

1 29 o

2 33 o
2 40 o
2 39 15
2 36 9

2 43 30
2 48 39

4 7 33

2 39 10

2 33 o

2 32 o

2 28 o

2 55 o

Authorities.

Page

4
4
4
3

5 12
5 "
4 57

>7 30

3 o

55 o

12 40
7 30
16 10
12 36
20 o
38 o
51 o
53 32
I 30
26 53
22 30

Staring.

Escher, &c.

MelviU V. Cambee

Escher, &c.

Chart.

Staring.

Chart.

Various.

Staring, &c.

165
672
674
672
673
674
679
679
681
684
688
689
690
690
691
691
691
691
691
692
693
694

694
696
696
697
701
696

703
704
705

"04
S S. Milton, 18751 705

Chart.
Jansen.

>)
Fokke.

Chart
Osterling. I

H.IM.S. Arrogant
Fokke.

Lockemeijer.

Fokke.

Gregory.

Fokke.

Chart.

Fokke.

Chart.

Junghun.

Fokke.

Rietveld.
Chart.

705
705
705
705
706
706
707
708
709
709
713
713
715
715
715
715
715
716
716
717
718

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
South.

Long.
East.

Authorities.

Page

Java, South Coast.

o , „

• , //

South Point, extreme

8 47 o

"4 25 13

Escher.

719

Barung Island, L;ibuan or South point -

8 32 o

"3 15

719

Dampar Bay, South point

8 18

113 11

720

Sempoe Island, West point -

8 28 30

112 39

))

720

Boemhoen Bay, Pakis Point -

8 18

I" 53 30

721

Gemah Bay, Popoh villaoje

8 15 4c

1 1 1 48

721

Soemhreng Bay, Sroyoe Island

8 20

111 34

721

Pangoel Bay, Government storehouse -

8 15

III 31

Rietveld.

722

Paijitan Bay, c<:^ntie

8 15

III 3

722

Wedie Hombo Bay, South Point

8 12

119 39

723

Baglen or Mee;anties Point, centre head

7 45 40

109 24

Perez.

723

Kambangan Island, Karang Bollong or

East point, Li<?tithouae

7 44 40

109 I 35

Chart.

724

Tjilatjap, Bollong Rock

7 44 40

109 I 35

Rietveld,

724

Kambangan Island, Bessek or S.W. pt. -

7 41 45

108 49

728

Penaniong Bay, Cape Mandararie

7 46 50

108 33

730

Boemie Point,' Islet oflF -

7 47 30

108 17

731

Cape Anjol, extreme

7 25

106 24 30

)»

731

Wynkoops Bay, storehouses -

6 59 30

106 35

731

Zand Bay, Mandra Island, N.W. point

7 II 7

106 5

733

Cape Sangian Sira, S.W. extreme

6 51 55

105 13 15

735

Java Sea, Etc.

Thousand Ids., Peblakan or West Island

5 28 45

106 23

Dijsunk.

736

„ Doea or North Island -

5 24 30

106 28

„

736

Arnemuiden Rock - - -

5 12 30

106 42

Charts.

736

Jlolenwerf Shoal (?)

5 13

106 50

736

Etna Shoal ...

5 17 18

106 55

GroU.

736

Brouwers Shoal ...

5 17 30

107 20

Dutch Charts.

736

South Watcher, centre

5 42 47

106 42 17

Dijsunk.

736

Nassau Bank, centre

5 49

106 49

GroU.

737

Maria Elise Shoal, 7 fathoms -

5 50 15

107 35 30

Schut.

737

Solombo Islands, Great Solombo, hill on

South end ...

5 35

114 27

Chart, 1878.

738

„ Little Solombo, centre

5 28

114 28

738

,, Arentes Island, centre

5 ^

114 36 30

738

Rosalie Rock ...

5 57

114 14

739

Borneo, South Coast.

Tanjong Sambar, S.E. point -

2 57

no 15

j»

739

Dieley River, East entrance point

2 sz 30

no 44

739

Point Malataiyo ...

3 30

113 30

740

Cape Salatan, South point of Borneo

4 10

114 41

740

Little Pulo Laut Ids., S.AV. Id., centre -

4 51 30

"5 43 30

741

JMoesa Siri, highest islet

4 23

115 50

741

EASTERN PASSAGES, ETC.

B.\Li Island.

Bali Peak, 11,326 ft.

8 21

115 28

Eietveld, &c., to

742

Cape Passier, N.W. point

8 6 10

114 26

1878.

743

Minjangan Island, East point -

8 6 50

114 32 30

744

Mount Goendel

8 II

114 47

744

Tpbonkos, Road . . -

8 10

114 58

744

Beliling, entrance of river

8 6 30

»i5 4 45

745

xxxu

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Sansrsit Eoad, liffht - - -

KarHDg Assem Cape, East point of Bali
Padang Cove ...

Pandita Isles, peak . - .

Tafelhoek, Boekit or West point
Bali Badong Bay, Kotta village
Djembrana, bay - - .

Manok Bay, entrance

Bali Strait.

Cape Sedano, N.E. point of Java
Meindeis Droogfe and Lighthouse
Duiven Island, Lighthouse
Banjoewangie, Fort Utrecht, light
Mount Ikan, extreme of point
Cape SlokkOj East point of Java

LoMBOK Island and Strait.

Eindjrinie Peak, 12,379 feet. -
Eoembek, or N.W. point, extreme
Tweelings, or Twins Islands, E. point -
Lombok, village - . .

Labuan Hadji, Mouth of stream
Pedioe, Cape Louar, flagstaff -
Cape Ringit, S.E. point
Cape Bangko, S.W. point
Labuan Tring, entrance of cove
Ampanam Baj', anchorage
Trawangan, Island off N.W. point

Allas Strait and Sumbawa.

South-west Point of Table Hill
Taliwang Bay, Knoop Island -
Madang or Flat Island, West end
Majo Island, Setonda Island, off N.E. pt,
Tambora Volcano, summit on East side
of crater ...

Dompo Bay, East side, Kila Eoad
Bima Bay, Kambing Island -
Sangeang, highest peak
Sapie Bay, Doembia Point
Tempie Bay, entrance

Sapi Strait.

Banta Island, peak - . .

Setan Island, peak - - .

Chii:,ney or Schoorsteen Island, W. pt. -
Comodo Island, South point -

„ N.W. point -

„ N.E. point

Floris or Mangarai Island, Etc.

Badiak Cove - . .

Bodo Island ...

Eeo Bay, village - . .

Potta, roadstead - . .

4 o

23 o

31 20

45 o

48 o

42 15

23 o

10 5

7 47 12

7 41 30

8 2 30
8 12 20
8 27 o
8 42 o

8 23 o

8 24 30

8 17 o

8 30 o

8 42 o

8 47 o

8 54 o

8 44 o

8 42 o

8 32 o

8 20 o

920
8 49 o
8 8 40
8 6 30

8 12 30
8 18 o
S 26 45
8 12 o
8 32 30
8 52 o

22 30
31 o

46 o

47 o
26 30

23 o

„

114

1x6

116

1x6

116

X16

xx6

115

1x6

116

1x6

X16

1x9

X17

117

X18

119

118

119

120

Eietveld, &c.

Melvillv. Cambee
Smits, &c.

Dutch charts.

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Pag«

Diederika Reef
Piiloweh Island, peak
LJDguett'' or Sukur Island, peak
DofiFer Islands, East islet
Bastaard Islands, centre of East island
Larantiika Road

Floris Head, or Iron Cape, N. extreme -
An;<elica Reef

Kauna or Post Horse Island -
Topa or Kilatoa Island, Cornelia Road ■
JIadu or Pondian": Islan'i, East point ■
Kalao Island, West point
Boneratoe Island, South point
Djampea Island, Kanibarraghie Bay, E
point - . . .

„ East point

„ Bimbe Island, off "West

point - . . .

Kajoewaddie, peak on West end
Mamalak [sland, centre
Alligator Bay . . .

Flor-'S Island, S.W. point (C. Sosa)
Toren or Tower Island, peak -
South Point, Mount Rokka -
Rumba Volcano, sun)mit
Ende Bay, West point
Amboq;a<ra Road - - -

Api Volcano . . -

Lofty peak on S. coast
Lobetobie Volcano, Siiy^irloaf peak
Sandalwood IslanI, il indieli or E. point
,, Cape Atta, extreme

„ Nangamessie Har., entrance

„ Palmedo Road

„ Reef or West Point

,, Cape Blackwood, or S. point

Savu Island, Seba Bay on X.W. side -
Dana or Ho'kie Islai.d, hill -
Floris Strait, Kambing Island

„ Larantaka, Portuguese Settle-
ment - - -
„ Serbette Island
Komba Island, volcanic peak -
Solor Island, Lamarkwera or E point -

,, Lawang on X. coast

Adenara Island, Mount Woka, summit -
Lombata or Lomblen Island, Mount La-
mararap ...

„ Soangie Island, off S.W. pt. -
Lobetolle p'-ak - - -

Pantar Island, South peak of Saddle on
South point . . -

„ S.W. point

,, Pandai on N. end

Pantar Strait, North or Panjang Island -
„ Hi^h or Pura II.. peak -

,, South or Twerin Island -

Ombay Island, D<>lolo anchorage
,, S.W. point . -

„ S.E. point, white rock

"Wetter Island, Honden Island ofl X.W.
point - - - -

8 21 o

; I2J 9 30

Kingdom.

771

8 19 30

1 121 42

Dutch Charts.

771

860

IJ2 8

»>

771

8 19 25

122 19 30

»»

771

8 23

122 30

771

8 20

122 59

771

8 4 45

' 122 52

771

7 48 39

122 17

771

7 25

122 30

772

7 24

'2 1 45

772

7 27 40

12 1 43 30

772

7 16

120 48

773

7 20 13

121 2 20

773

7 5

120 57 30

773

1 7 S

120 48 20

773

7 2 30

120 3r 30

»i

773

6 46

120 47 30

773

6 40

120 12 30

773

8 45

119 49

774

1 8 49

"9 55

774

8 52 30

120 12 10

„

774

8 54

121

775

8 50

121 12

775

8 56

121 20

775

8 52

121 39

775

8 55

121 41

775

8 48

122 4

775

8 32

122 46

775

10 6

120 51

775

9 35

120 30

776

9 36

120 16

„

776

9 21

"9 45

776

9 40

118 59

776

10 19

120 30

776

j 10 29

121 46

777

10 49

121 16

777

8 40

122 51

777

8 19 30

122 58 30

778

8 8 3c

123 I ;

„

779

7 48

123 33

779

8 26

123 8 30

779

8 27

123 3 30

779

8 20 30

123 15

779

1 8 33

123 22

780

8 35

133 13

780

8 11 30

123 43 30

781

8 34

124 6

„

781

8 25

123 55

781

8 I r 30

124 12

781

880

124 17 30

782

8 16

124 16 30

„

782

8 29 '

124 13 30 {

„

7>-2

8 12 i

.'24 23 01

782

8 25

124 18 j

782

8 21

125 14 1

782

7 41

126

782

XXSIV

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

I.at.
South.

Long.
East.

Authorities.

Page

Wetter Island, East point

"7 45

126 47

Dutch Charts.

782

„ Sauw village on S. coast -

7 56

126 24

783

Liban Island, stimmit

8 5

125 46 30

783

Kamliing Island, S.W. point -

8 19

125 33

784

Kissa Island, anch. on \V. side

8 6

127 9

784

Roma or Teralta Island, West point

7 38

127 19

784

Timor. Oijsma or S.W. point

10 20

123 26

De Vrieze.

784

„ Samao Island, West point

10 14

123 16 30

785

„ Koepang, Fort Concordia flag-

staff ....

ID 10

123 35

785

„ Pakoela Point, low extreme

10 2

123 34 30

786

,, Selama peak, summit

9 57

123 39 30

786

Rotti Island, W. point

10 46

122 52

>»

787

„ Cj'rus Harbour -

10 53

123 5 15

Spratley.

788

„ Baa Koad

10 43

123 I 40

Dutch charts.

788

Timor Xorth Coast, Gomok Point

9 27

123 46 30

788

„ Gula or Goela Island -

9 15

124

789

„ Liefou, Portuguese settlement

9 "

124 25

D'Entrecasteaux.

789

„ Atapopa,, Dutch settlement

124 50

Baars.

789

„ Gedeh, Portuguese settl;ment

8 57

124 55

789

„ Dielli, Portuguese settlement flag-

staff

8 34

125 37

Kolff.

789

„ Mantotte, village

8 30

125 58

Dutch chart.

791

,, Cape Jackee, N.E. point

8 20

127 II

Edeling.

791

,, Nusa Besie or Jackee Island

8 25

127 18

791

Gunong Api, summit of volcano

6 43

126 43

792

ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EAST-

WARD OF BORNEO.

Strait of Makassak.

Two Brothers - . .

4 19

116 12 30

Chart.

794

Bira Birakan Islands, N. extreme

4 6

1 16 16

794

Pulo Sebuku, North end

3 ^2

116 27

794

Paniantyngan Point

3 12

116 15

794

Pulo Laut, Pulo Kungit off South point

4 6

116 40

Dutch chart.

794

Dwaalder Island, E. side

4 15

116 10 30

794

I'hree Alike Islands, centre -

3 39

116 39 30

795

Sibbald Bank, 5 fathoms

5 46

117 30

Forbes, &g.

795

Aurora Bank, 4£ fathoms

5 25

116 58

795

Nusa Komba, centre

5 14

117 4

Chart.

795

Pudsc-y Dawson, 4i fathoms -

4 42

117 40

-796

Laurel Reef, 2\ fathoms patch

4 30

117 8

796

Martaban Shoal - . .

4 "

117 10

796

Sea Serpent Shoal - - .

3 56

117 28
117 29 40

796

Bank, dries ...

3 31

796

Bank - - . .

3 34

"7 37 30

>»

796

Bank - - . .
Twee Vrienden Reef

3 38
3 40

"7 35
ii7 8

Vrienden, 1876.

796
796

Franklin Bank - . .

3 2

117 33

Chart.

796

Triangles, southern

3 5
6 2

117 50

118 14

796

Laars Bank, S. end - - .

796

Saflana or Dewakan Island -

5 26

118 25

118 35

1 118 53

1 16 32

796

Tonyn Island or Benkoeloean-

5 31

6 8

2 32

797

Brill Shoal

Shoal Point or Tanjong Iklirra

797
798

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
South.

Long.

East.

Authorities.

Page

Eairged Point or Tanjons;: Aris

2 'S 30

, «
116 37

Chart.

798

Little Paternosters, X.E. isle -

2 10

117 48 30

)»

799

N.W. isle

280

i'7 33

799

Hannah Shoal . . .

2 18

117

799

Pasir or Passier River, entrance

I 51

799

Jason Reefs, S.E. end

I 51

116 57

799

N.W. end

I 48 30

116 52

799

Kiver Koetei, S.W. entrance -

117 20

8U0

„ Tanjong Bayor, E. point of

delta ....

"7 37

800

Bontheim, on South coast of Celehes

5 32

119 54

802

Klambang Point, Cape Bulo Bulo

5 42

119 41

802

Point Laykan, S.W. point of Celebes -

5 36

119 26

Sir E. Belcher.

803

Makas-sar, Ft. Rotterdam, North angle

5 8 9

119 21 18

803

Spermonde Archipelago, Kapo Posang

Island or West Island

4 43

"8 55

Chart.

805

Teignmouth Bank - - -

4 56

118 35 30

80-5

Pareh Pareh Ba}-, village

410

119 34

8ll'5

Balanipa, village . . -

3 29

119 2 30

806

Cape Mandhar, West extreme

3 34

118 54

806

Penamhoeang, village

3 28

118 52 30

806

Cape William . . -

2 40

1 1 8 47

806

Palos Bay, village at the head

57
North.

119 47 30

Van Loo, &c.

806

Cape Temoel or Samsa

000

1^9 35 30

Chart.

807

Seven Islands, North Watcher

119 43 30

807

Cape Donda ...

58 30

120 13 30

„

807

Cape Kaniongan, E. point of Borneo

140

118 56

)»

807

Island of Celebes.

Cape Rivers, N.E. Cape, Slime Islet

I 20

120 43 30

Sir E. Belcher.

809

Cape Kandi - -

I 20

121 25

Chart.

810

Bwool, anchorage ...

I 10

121 24

810

Kwandang Bay, village in S.E. part

122 44 30

810

Lombok Bay, Maririe Point -

I I

124 9

811

Manado, Fort Amsterdam

I 29 25

124 46 30

811

Mount Klobat, summit 631.T feet

I 27 9

125

811

North Cape or Papalumpongang

I 46

124 56

„

812

Limbe Island, North point

I 35

125 15

812

Kema, Fort ...

I 21

125 I 30

812

Cape Flesko, extreme

124 26

Jlelvill V. Cambee

812

Cape Tolo, extreme

123 50

812

Gorontalo, entrance of river -

25
South.

122 50

812

Togean Isles, Great Wallah, N. point -

122 13

813

Cape Talabo, East end

123 27

„

813

Cape Nederburg ...

2 53

122 16

813

Wowoni or Weywon^i Island, N. point

3 58

123

813

Kendari or Vosraaer Baj', entrance

3 57

122 32

813

Boeton or Bulon Island, North point -

4 23 30

123 4

813

„ „ East point

5 15

123 16

813

„ Siumpu or South Id, S.W. point

5 41 20

122 26 30

„

814

„ Bolio or Boeton

5 28

122 36

„

814

Moena or iluna Island, C. Willa, or

S.W. point

5 23

122 15

>«

816

Kabeina Island, peak 4,000 feet

5 19 30

121 53

815

Cape Lassa or Berak, extreme

5 35

120 29

Sir J. Brooke.

815

Point Patiro, extreme

4 38

120 27

816

Cape Marasauga or Siw i

3 4S

120 26

816

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Beraoe or Burn, head of Gulf of Boni -
Cape Bunffiiifi; Kaito
Mansfield Shoal, centre 3 fathoms
Salayar Island, North point -
„ South pi lint -

Tiger Islands, Ptrch Islaml at E, end -
Postilion Island, Noitli Island
„ S.K. Island -

„ S.W. Islands, Maria

Reiiiersbergen Islands
Pulo Tenga or Paternoster Ids., South
Ids. or Maria Heinersberuen Ids.
„ Ardassier Islands, South one
.„ N.E. Paternosters, North one

Molucca Islani>s.

Xulla Isles— Taliabo, N."W. point -
„ Mangola, S.E. point

„ Lisainatula, E point

„ Besi, S.E point

,, ,, Sannana Bay, fort

Bouro Island, Bulatetio or N.W. Cape -
„ Cayeli Bay, Fort Dei'ansie

,, P."la or Ea-t point

„ Arnblau Island, E. point -

„ Pekka or South point

Manipa Island, centre
Amboina Island, Wawolle or W. point -
,, Amboina, Fort Victoria

Haruku, S."W. point
Saparoea, Melano Id., off S.W. point -

„ Fort Duurstede

Banda Ids., Gunong Api summit 2200 ft.
„ Great Banda, N.E. point -

,, Neira, Fort Nassau

„ Rosengain or Kozagin, centr

„ Way or Ai, centre

,, Khun or Rung, S. point

Token Bessi Ids., Wangi- Wangi, N.W.
point - - - -

„ Binongko, South point

„ St. Matthew Id., centre -

,, Veldhoen, centre

Hegadis Island, Lagu Rocks, off S. pt. -
Lucipara Islands, North iglet
Gunong Api ...

Roma Island, West point

„ Serussa anchorage

Letti Island, West point

,, Anch(;ra!ie on N. side

Moa Island, Buflalo Peak, 4,100 feet -
Strraatta Island, N.E. point -
Damma Island, Kulewatta Harbour,
JSorih point . - -

Nila Island, centre - - .

Maiio or Bird Island, centre -
Tenimher Islands, Timor Laut, Oliliet
on East coast - . .

)j tt S. point

7 3°

7 5°
1 35
6 35

I 44 o

I 55 3°

1 50 o

2 28 o

7 °
22 49

23 o

52 o

53 o

17 o

3 44 30
3 41 30

39 o

40 o

35 50
3> o
30 30

32 o

34 o
32 o

36 o

15 o

17 o

20 o

58 o

9 °

28 30

43 o
38 o
42 o

5 14 20

8 10 15
8120
8 14 o

730

6 44 o

5 33 o

7 55 o

8 18 45

120 40 30

121 45 O

120 13 O

120 30 o

120 28 30

J22 15 Q

118 43 O

119 10 O

107 56 o

117 5 o

117 22 o

118 17 o

122 20
126 14
126 29
126 I

125 57

126 4

127 6
127 17 o
127 17 o

126 39 o

127 34 o

127 54 30

128 10 18
128 25 o
128 36 o

128 38 18

129 53 o
129 56 30

129 52 50

130 2 30
129 46 20
129 43 o

Sir J. Brooke.

Chart.

Brennivala.

Chart.

Sir E. Belcher.

Chart.

Sir E. Belcher.

Chart.

Melvill V. Carnbee
Chart.

123 32 o

123 59 o

124 14 o
124 46 o

122 38 O

127 30 O

126 43 30

127 19 O
127 39 O
127 36 o

127 41 o

128 I o

129 o o

128 28 o

129 29 o

130 20 o

131 23 30 Owen Stanley, &c,
I30 43

Dutch chart.

Chart.

Owen Stanley.

Chart.

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXXVll

Page

■ Tenimber Islands, Laarat, E. point
„ Voniate, 8. point

„ Mulu, N. point

„ Serra, 8.W. point

Arru Islands, N^or or S. Island

,, Dobbo Harbour, point

,, North point

Ki Islands, Great Ki, South point
„ ,, North point

„ Little Ki, Doulan Har. pier

Victoria Shoal ? -
Lyne'ioch Bank, 7 fathoms -
IMoney Shoal - - .

Tionfolokker Group, S.W. island
Three Brothers. Ta or South Brother -
Tello Islands, KanalurorS. Id , summit
,, Bun or N. Id., summit -

Tebor Island, N.E. point
Matabella Islands, Kukur

„ IngHT

Goram Isles, Monovolko, E. point

„ Goram, tS.E. point

Ceram Laut Isles, high tree on western
isle ....
„ Kilwari Island, town

KeflB.ng Isles, E. point
Ceram Island, Rozaket or N.E. point -
,,, Waroe or Wharu anch. -

„ CapeTalanuru, N.W. ext.

„ Bonoa Island, N.E. point

,, Seal orSial Pt., S.W. ext.

„ Piero Bay, Kassara Id. -

„ Amahai i3ay, Dutch fort -

New Guinea, Cape Valsche -
,, Triton Bank

„ Providential Bank

„ False Ulanata River

„ Cape Chanipel or Steen-

boom - - . .

„ Cape Buru

,, Lakahia Mount

„ Cape Perier

„ Chasot Island, centre

„ Aidutnea Island, centre

„ Triton Bay, Port du Bus -

,, Namatotte I.^land

„ Wessel Island, S.E. point

„ Ariiuna Bay, C. Boucher -

„ Cape Kaffoera -

,, Cape Sapey

„ Gudin Island, N.W. end -

„ Drei Cap Pen'a, Wass Id.

„ McCluer Inlet, village at

bead - - . .

Sabuda Island, S. point
Mysole Islami, Efbe Harbour
Canary Islands, -western extreme
Popa Island, S.E. point
Salawati Island, Van Dady or N.W. pt.
Batanta Island, Cape Mubo or W. pt. -
Waigiu Island, Piapis Harbour

45 18
20
56
16 30
34 42
13

55
10 19
5 47

5
5
6
4
4
4
4
4

3
3
3
3
3
2

2 56

3 33
3 16

3 19
8 22
6
6 35

4 45

28
12
8 30
2

27 30
44

2 23
2 40
2 4
1 50
1 12
59
56
5

132 1
131 55

131 40

130 44
134 24
134 13 35
134 40

132 54

133 10
132 45 11

131 22

130 40

132 47
132 9

131 54
131 58
131 58
131 47
131 50
131 34
131 29
131 30

131

130 68

13J 53

130 56

130 43

128 11

127 59

127 55

128 10
128 56 7

137 40

138 4
137 55
136 18

136 20 30

135 9

134 50

134 31 30

134 17 30

134

134 4

133 57
133 34
133 20
132 47
132 37
132 33
132 4

134 7

131 36

130 12

129 35

129 50

130 36
130 25
130 12

Owen Stanlej'
Chart.

Owen Stanley,

Chart.

Owen Stanley,

Tiza'rd, 1874,
Chart.
Stead.
Chart.

&c.

Kolfif.
Dutch Chart.

Konine:.
KoJff, &c.

Chart.

Forrest.
Chart.

D'Urville.

841
841
841
841
841
844
842
846
847
847
848
84»
848
8da
850
850
850
850
850
850
^51
851

851
851
8)2
852
852
8o4
854
854
854
854
85.7-
855
8A.5
85»

856

85&

Soft

856

856 ^

856

857

857
858
858
858
859
860
860
861

XXXVIU

TABLE OF GEOGEAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Authorities.

Waigiu Island, Offak Harbour, entrance

,, Rawak Harbour

„ Cape Lamarche, N.E. pt.

„ Chabrol Bay, Port BIos-

seville . - - -

Dampier Island, Bucclench Shoal

„ King William Island,

West point

,, Pigeon Island, centre -

,, Fowl Isle, centre

Obi Major, Pocky or W. point

Gomona Island, centre

Lukieong or Loyang Island, S. end

Gasses Island, S.E. end

Kekik Island, East end

Boe or Bu Islands, W. end -

Gebi or Gebeh Islands, N".W. point

„ Fowld., S.pt. -

Gagy Island, South point

Syang Island, S.E. point

Wyang or Vayag Island, West end

Ormsbee Shoal, 12 fathoms

Halmaheira or Gillolo, South point

„ Cape Tabo, E. extr. -

„ Canton Packet Reef -

„ Ardasier Rock

„ Bitjoli or Wassa,

Dutch settlement

„ Cape Salaway, N.E.

point - - - .

„ Tanjong Batu Bessao

„ Talendang Ids., Dili

„ Gillolo village

„ Dodingo, village

Molucca Islands, Ternata, Fort Oranje -
„ Tidore, summit of volcano

„ „ N.E. end

„ Mareh, W. point

„ Motir, summit

„ Makkian, Fort Reeburgh

Wolf Rock
„ Batjan or Batchian, Fort

Barneveld - . .

,, S.E. point

Bahia Reef, coral - . .

Mayor or Mej's Island, North point
Tifore Island, N.W. point

ISLANDS NORTH OF THE
MOLUCCAS.

Bajaren Island, summit
Tagiilanda Island, peak

5
13

34
39
,0 43

30
42 30
42
38
30

North.
2 2
South.
8
25
North.

18
11
41
South.
50
North.
11
36 30
45

1 26

2 14
2 17
1 10
52
47
39
46
34
28
24
13
South.

1 10
North.

1 22 30
1 1

130 43

130 57

131 14

130 41

131 21

130 29

130 34

130 42 30

127 18

127 30

128 2
128 14
128 37

129 11 30

129 17 30

129 30

129 54

129 53

129 57

130

128 23

128 52

128 56 30

129

128 20

128 37

127 33

127 28

127 46

127 21

127 22

127 25

127 21

127 23

127 21

126 50

127 25 30
127 52 30
126 50

126 22
126 8

Chart.
>j
>»
»

Duperrey.

Chart.

j>
>»
>»

Dutch Chart.

Bethune.

2 7 125 22 Spanish charts, &c 881
2 22 125 24 30 j „ «82

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

XXXIX

Seao Island, conical peak

Sangir Island, S. poiut, Cape Palumbatu

Talaut Islands, Kalnuansr, S.E. point -

,, Karkelansi:, N. point

Tulur Islands, Kanian village
Meangis Inlands, southern

SuLU Archipelago.

Tapnl, centre hill - . -

Bulipons;pong, centre hill

Cuad Basang, S.W. point

Bubuan, Lagoon entrance

Ketnapoussan Island, centre -

Boiijialao, S'uith point

Simonor, N.W. point

Manuc iManca, M'est point

8ibutu, hill, East coast

Borneo, Unsang anchorage

Omapiii, N.W. extreme

Talantam Bank, 5 fathoms

Pearl Bank, western Island -

„ East Islet
Doc-can, West extreme
Sulu Island, Dalrymple Harbour, well

on S.E. coast Tulyan Island
Pansjituran, S.W. point
Basilan Id., Passanhan or Isabela

,, Island, Malusa
Sibago Isles ...

Teinga Island, centre
Sta. Cruz Island, S.E. one

Philippine Islands.

Mindanao, Cape Panguitan or S. point -
„ lUana Bay, Rio Grande, Co-

tabatu fort ...

„ Port Dumanquilas, entrance

,, Samboanga, pier -

„ La Caldera, fort -

,, Santa Cruz Islands, S. point

,, Port Sta. Maria, village at

head ....
„ Murcielagos Islets, W. point

„ Point Taglo, N.^V. point

,, Laguna de Panguil, Misamis,

at entrance ...

„ Macajalar Bay, Barra de Ca-

gayan - -

„ Camiguin Island, \Y. point -

„ Point Banajan or Bilaan

,, Surinao, landing' place

Surigao Islands, Siargao, N.E. point

„ Dinigat, N. point

Panaon Island, S. point

„ Puerto Liloan, E. entr. -

Leyte Island, S.W. point
„ Tacloban
„ Carigara on N. coast
Samar Island, Punta Saugui, r Samar -

2 44

3 21

3 49

4 29

3 49

4 39

44 30

41 30
27 10
25 15
13

30
55 30
49 30

49 30
16 30
54 10

50 45
50 45
52 30

6 2 30
6 15 15
6 42 45
6 32 50
6 45
6 54
6 52 15

5 36

7 46

8 8
8 43

8 10

8 31 10

9 12 30
9 50
9 48 30

10 4
10 28
9 55
10 10

11 16
11 19

10 55 30

125 26 Spanish charts, &c

125 39

127 2 30

15fi 52

127 2 Chart.

127 7

120 55
120 49 45
120 11 30
120 35

120 40 45
119 44 15
119 46 45
119 48
119 24
119 16
119 22 45
119 26 30
119 37 30
119 44

119 Ob 45

121 18 20

120 29 30

121 58

121 52 43

122 24

121 38

122 4

125 21

124 14 30

123 4

122 4

121 58

122 4 30

122 7 30

122 26

123 22 30

123 49

124 45

124 37

125 25

125 29

126 3
125 38
125 17
125 8
125 1
124 59

124 41

125 52

Chimmo, 1871-2

Spanish charts.
La Sabine, 1844.
Spanish charts.
Wild Rover, 1870
Spanish charts.

Spanish charts.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Lat.
North.

LonR.
East.

Authorities.

Page

„

Samar Island, Point Binusfayan

125

902

,, C.Espiritu Santo, N.E. end

125

902

„ Puerto de Palapa, S.E. pt.

of Batag Island - - -

125

902

„ Bulicuatro Isles, N.W. pt.

of Viri - - - -

124

902

St. Bernardino Island, East entrance of

Strait - - - -

124

904

Capul Island, N. point

124

904

Ticao Island, Puerto San Jacinto, fort -

123

904

ilasbate. Point Ciduljuan or S. K. point

124

905

„ Put-rto Barreras, Point Lanan

123

905

,, Point Bugui or N.W. point

123

905

Zebu or Oebu Island, Point,Bulalaqu e or

N. point ...

124

906

„ Port Zebu, lighthouse

on Bacacay Point

124

»>

907

,, Naga coal mines

123

9»

907

„ Point Tanon or S. pt.

124

907

Bohul Island, N.W. point

1J4

908

Siquijor Island, N. point

123

908

Negros Island, Bombonon or S. point -

123

908

„ Himamajlan, on VV. coast

122

908

,, Bacolot, village

122

»9

908

Bnrias, Busin Harbour, San Jose Id. -

122

908

Panaj', Punta Bulacaue or N.E. point -

123

909

„ Silanga Islands, North Gigante,

N. point ...

123

909

„ Pan de Azucar, summit

123

)»

910

„ Ilo Ilo, fort

122

910

„ Nugas Island, off S.W. pt.

121

915

,, San Jose_de. Buenaventura

121

915

„ Point Naisog, or N.W. point

121

915

SuLU Sea.

Sandakan Harbour, Bahalatolis Island -

118

»>

917

Cagayan de Sulu, entrance of basin

118

918

,, Sulu, observation spot, middle

West coast ...

118

Chimmo, 1871.

918

San Miguel Isles, East point of Manuk

ISIanukan ...

118

Spanish charts.

920

Ca-ayancs Islands, Observatory between

the islands ...

121

921

Caueli or Cavilli, N.W. point

120

922

Sombrero Rock ...

121

923

Pi^dra Blanca ...

121

922

MinUoro Island, Cape Calavite, N.W. pt.

120

924

,, Abra lie Hog -

120

924

„ Calapan

121

924

,, Punta Buruncan or S. pt.

121

924

Sibuyan Island, South point -

122

924

„ West point -

122

924

Rombloii Island, light on N.E. point

122

924

Marinduque Island, Ele'ante,i^off S. pt. -

122

925

Luzon, S., E., and N. Coasts, Cape San-

tiago ....

120

Montero, Spanish

926

„ Balayan ...

120

Surveys, &c.

927

,, Batanufaa ...

121

927

,, Veide Island, N.W. point

121

927

„ Point Bantigui

121

927

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

xli

Lat.
North.

Authorities.

Luzon, L.ig-iimmanoc, entrance
„ Bondog Head
„ Tamba Point

„ Sorsogon - - .

„ Calintan Island
„ Ungay Point

„ Catanduanes Island, S.E. point -
j» „ N. point

„ Matandumaten Island
„ Calagnas Isles, Cacbalisay Id.,
East end . . .

,, Lamon Bay, Gumaca
,, Polillo Island, peak -
„ Cape San Ildefonso -
„ Paranan Bay, South pt.
„ Yligan Point
„ Cape Engano
„ Pt. San Vincente, entrance
„ River Cagayan, entrance
„ Pamplona Bar
„ Pt. Djalao - - -

„ Cape Bojeador
Babuyan Islands, Dalupiri Id., N. point

„ Calayan Island, N.E. pt.

„ Claro Island, W. point -

,, Camiguin Island, Port

Pio v., entrance - - -

„ Bashi or Batan Islands,

Balintang Island (P.D.)

,, Batan Island, Mt. Irada,

3,806 ft.
Kosa -
S.w'.'point

Ibayat Island, Mt. Santa
Y'Ami Island, islet off

CHINA.

Hainan to Hong Kong.

Now Chow Island, West point

Ty-fung-kyoh Island

Pauk Pyah Rock -

Song-yui Point . . .

Mamee-chow Islets, S.W. pt. of W. islet

Tyoa Point ...

Mandarins Cap ...

Hawcheim Island, S.W. point

Namoa Harbour, entrance

Wycaup Island, S.E. part

Cou-cok Island, Sail Rock off S. point .

Canton Rivers.

San Chow Island, Stragglers off S.E. pt.
Montanha Id., Water Ii^lands off S. pt. -
Macao, Fort Guia, lighthouse
Great Ladrorie Island, S.W. point

Hong Kong to River Min.

Hong Kong, Wellington Battery
„ Cathedral

I. A.

13 53
13 10
13 30
13 30

12 31 20

13 10 40

13 31 40

14 8 10
14 18

14 25 40

13 57 45

14 56

16 4

17 9

18 20
18 34 30
18 30
18 23
18 30
18 37 40

18 29 30

19 9 30
19 22
19 30

18 53

19 58 30

20 28 30

20 48

21 4 56

20 59

21 24 30
21 24 15
21 32
21 34
21 44
21 29
21 35
21 36
21 34
21 50

22
22 3 30
22 12
21 55 25

22 16 23
22 16 23

121 49

122 36

123 19

123 59 30

124 5
124 9 20
124 21
124 13 40
123 5 30

122 57 30
121 54 45
121 58

121 46

122 28
122 18
122 5 40
122 6
121 35
121 22
120 48

120 34 20

121 13
121 32
121 52

121 48

122 14
122 1 20

Montero, Spanish
surveys, etc.

121 52

121 58

110 38

111 10

111 15

111 38

111 47

112 14

112 21

112 33

112 35

112 54

113 7

113 24

113 30

113 33

113 42

114 10

114 9

Chart.

Domville.

Belcher, 1841.

xlii

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

Authorities.

Ninppin Rock . . -

Single Island, East summit -

Tuni-ang Island, summit

Mendoza Island, summit

Pedro Blanco Rock, summit -

Pauk Piah Rock, summit

Chino Peak, summit

Cupchi Point, hill on it

Breaker Point ...

Cape of Good Hope

Swatow, Double Island

Brothers Islets, S.E. islet

Tongsang Harbour, Fall Peak

Chapel Island, light

Tsing Seu Island, lighthouse -

Amoy, Hanseu Island Pagoda

High Laniock, light

Chin-chu Harbour, Pisai Lsland

P3'ramid Point . . .

Sorrel Rock . . -

Ockseu Islands, western island, lightho.

Lam-yit Island, high cone peak

Hungwha Channel, Sentry Island

Hai-tan Island, Kiangshan Peak

Turnabout Island, summit, light

Middle Dog Island, light

Formosa, Pescadores, Etc.

Gadd Rock

Yele Rete Rocks - " -

Botel Tobago sima. South extreme

Little Tobago sima ...

Formosa Island, South cape -

„ Sau-o Bay, Obs. spot -

„ Samasana Island

.,, Takau, Saracen Head -

„ Port Heonffsan

„ Tam-sui Har., "White

fort ....
,, Foki Point -

„ Ke-lung Harbour, Ob-

servation spot ...
Hoa-pin-su Island, North face
Raleigh Rock ...

Meiaco-sima Group, Kumi Id., N. beach
„ Broughton Bay, landing place
„ Port Haddington, Hamilton
Point . . - -

., Tai-pin-san, S.W. Bay
Pescadores Islands, Makung Harbour,
2nd point on N. side of harbour

„ Fisher Id., light -

River Mix to Shaxghai.

River Min, Temple Point
Alligator Island, summit
Tung-ying Island, peak
Cony Lsland, summit
Double Peak Island, highest peak
Pih-seang Islands, Town Island
Dangerous Rock, summit
Tae Islands, easternmost

22 15 45
22 24 6
22 27 6
22 30 42
22 18 30
22 32 54
22 44 24
22 48 7

22 56

23 14
23 20
23 32 30

23 47 15

24 10 18
24 22 15
24 28 20

23 15

24 49

24 52

25 2

24 59

25 12
25 16 30
25 36 18
25 26
25 58 20

21 43 10

21 45 30

22 1 40
21 57 30

21 55
24 35 28

22 41

22 36 14

24 46

25 10 24
25 19

25 8 25
25 47 7
25 35
24 26
24 21 30

24 25
24 43 35

23 32 54
23 33

26 8 26
26 9
26 23 12
26 30
26 36 6
26 42 30
26 53
26 59 12

o , /,

114 22 7

114 39 12

114 36 45

114 50

115 6 54

115 I

115 46 50

116 4 26

llfi 27 45

116 47

116 43 20

117 42

117 36 48

118 13 30

118 7

118 3

117 17 30

118 41

118 58

119 10 36

119 27 30

119 35

119 45

119 50 42

119 58 42

120 2 30

121 37

120 48 40

121 39 45

121 40 30

120 50 30

121 49 27

121 28

120 16 33

120 55

121 25

121 37

121 45 30

123 30 31

124 35

122 56

124 17 40

124 6 40

125 17 49

119 30 12

119 28

119 37 42

120 26

120 31

120 10

120 U 12

120 22 42

120 34 18

120 43 48

CoUinson, 1845,

Ross, 1817, and
Brooker, 1866.
Beechy, 1826.

Wilda, 1865.
Brooker, 1867.
Collinson, 1845.
Richards, 1855.
Biooker, 1866.

Brooker, 1867.
Colhnson, 1845.

Belcher, 1845.
Bullock, 1866.
Belcher, 1845.

Collinson, 1845.

Richards, 1854.
Collinson, 1845.

TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS.

zliii

Ping-fong Island, summit
Pih-quan Peak, summit
Nam-quam Harbour. Bate Island
Port Isamki, eastern horn
Pih-ki-shan Island, summit -
ToDg--wbang Group, Coin Island
Pe-shan Island, summit
Soudan Islet, summit
Chikkok Island, summit
Tai-chau Group, Hea-chu Islet
Chuh-seu Island, summit
Tung-chuh Island, summit -
Hieshan Islands, southernmost
Montagu Island, X.E. point -
Kweshan Islands, Patahecock
Mouse Kock, summit
Buffidoes Nose Island, high part
Nimrod Sound, Middle Island
Chukea Island, peak
Tongting Islet, summit
Chusan Id., Obs. spot, Tinghai
West Volcano Island, light on summit -
Just-in-the-way Islet, summit
Yung Paver, Chin-hai citadel

„ Square Island light

„ Pas-yew light -

Video Island, summit
Barren Isles, centre
Saddle Group, North island light
Cairnsmore hock . - .

Gutzlaff Island, light on summit
Chapu, battery . . .

Shaweishan Island, light on summit
Entrance of river, Tungsha bank light-
vessel - - - .
"Wusung River, Fort A. at entrance
Shanghai, British consulate flagstaff -
Hankow, Mouth of Han river.

Shanghai to the Liautung Gulf.

Yellow River, southern entrance
"Wang-kia-tai Bay, Lung-wang temple -
Shan tung promontory, lighthouse on
N. E. extrem3 . . .

Miau-tau Group, peak of northern island
,, Hope Sound, Obs. spot

Pei Ho, S. Taku Fort, S. Cavalier

,, Tientsin, Observation spot
Shaluitien Island, Joss house -
Great Wall, sea end
Liau Ho, Yingtze pagoda

„ New Chwang Lightvessel
Hulu Shan Bay, Obs. place (N. side)
Port Adams, Entry island
Thornton Haven, Observation spot
Liau-ti-shan Promontorj-, S.W. point
Round Island, summit
Blonde Group, Shi-siau Rock
Tayang Ho, entrance
Qiielpart Island, Mount Auckland
Port Ilaiiiihon

9 42

18 48

9 20

27
27
27

27 26
27 37

27 50

28 .5
28 15 54
28 22 24
28 23 18
28 40 30
28 42 12

28 50 48

29 10 30
29 21 54
29 32 42
29 36 12
29 34 20
29 54

29 51 42

30 25
30 20 25
29 57 42
29 57 8
29 59 22

29 57 43

30 8
30 43
30 50 20
30 42 10
30 47 38

30 36

31 24 30

31 7 40
31 23 30
31 14 42
30 32 61

34 2

35 39

37 24

38 23

37 56

38 8

39 9

38 53

39 58

40 43

40 35

39 40

39 16

39 4

3S 43

38 40

38 56

39 46

33 26

34 1

120 32 42
120 28 42

120 25 50

121 6 36
121 12 18
121 15
121 31 48
121 44 36
121 44 12
121 65 12
121 47 24

121 55 6

122 14 24
122 6
122 13 42
122 13 36
122 1 24

121 43 15

122 25 18
122 35 48
122 5 18
121 51 45
121 54 12
121 43 6
121 45

121 43 50

122 46

123 7 14
122 40
122 34 40
122 10

121 3

122 14 15

122 1

121 30 11

121 28 55

114 19 55

120 10
119 51 30

122 42
120 55

120 40
117 42

117 11

118 32

119 49
122 14

122

121 17
121 35

123 10

121 8

122 11

122 55

123 41

126 35

127 18

Collinson, 1845.

Ward, 1858.
Wilds, 1864.
Collinson, 1845.
Wilds, 1864.

Shanghai, 1873.
Ward, 1859.
Shadwell, 1850-8.
Ward, 1859.

Admiralty Chart
Bullock, 1861.

Ward, 1860.

Bullock, 1860.
Ward, 1860.
BuUock, 1860.
Chart.

Richards, 1855.

1065

10G6

1066

1067

1068

1070

1071

1072

1073

1075

1076

1081

1082

1083

1092

1097

1098

1102

1090

1094

1096

1102

1107

1108
1117
1122
1126

1131
1132

1133
1145
1146
1147
1147
1152
1153
1154
1154
1158
1159
1159
1159
1159
1160
1160
1161
1162

xHv

TABLE OF GEOGRAPniCAL POSITIONS.

JAPAN.

South and East Coasts.

Linschoten Ids., Yoko sima, summit
„ Kutsino sima
,, Kuro sima, centre -

Satnno Misaki, or Ca^o ChichakoflF Lt. -

Ciipe Isa - - - -

Cape Muroto . . .

Oo Sima Light . - .

Matoya I..ight . - .

Omae Saki Light - . -

Eock Island Lighthouse

Yedo Bay.

Cape Sagami, litjhthousi

„ Katioa saki, lighthouse -

„ Yokohama, Naval sick

quarters (square)
,, Nosima Point, lighthouse

Fatsizio Island, S.E. end

Vries Island, S.E. point

Inaboye Saki, lighthouse

Kingkasan Island, lisjhthouse

Yamada Harbour, Ko Sima -

Siriya Saki, lighthouse

Seto Uchi, or Inland Sea
Approaches.

Boungo Channel, Euryalus Rock
Kii Channel I., Sima, N. end

„ Naruto Passage, Su Saki

„ „ Tobi Sima

„ Okino Sima, W. end

,, Hino Misaki, extreme -

„ Siwo Misaki, light

„ Isumi Strait, Tomangai light
Osaka, Temposan Fort
Kobe, landing-place
Akashi Strait, Maiko Fort
Nabaa Sima, lighthouse
Tsura Sima, light - - .

Simoneski Strait, Isaki, light -
„ Shirasu, lighthouse-

West Coast.

Goto Islands, Ose Saki

Meae Sima, Ears Peak

Kagosima Gulf, Yama Gawa -
„ Iwo Sima, lighthouse

Nagasaki, Minage Point

Yebo.si Sima, light - - .

Kado Sima, lighthouse

Oki Islands, N. point

Cape Roiven - _ .

Port Niegat I, lighthouse

Hakodadi, Kamida creek, entrance

Yezo, Akishi Bay - . .

„ Nemoro, Benten Sima -
„ Iwani Bay - . .

° , II

28 47 30

29 59

30 50

30 58 45

32 44

33 14

33 28

34 22

34 36 30

34 34 20

35 8

34 14 45

35 26 30

34 53 20

33 4 24

34 39 30

35 43 30

38 19

39 27 17

41 26 10

33 2

33 51 45

34 14 56

34 13 50

34 6 50

33 52 45

33 26

34 16 40

34 39 45

34 41 3

34 38 29

34 23 15

33 53 SO

33 58 10

33 59 30

£2 39 30

32 3

31 12 40

32 43

32 44 28

33 41 30

34 21 30

36 30

37 28

37 56 30

41 47 8

43 2 22

43 20 24

43 1

129 1 30

122 55

129 57

130 40 15

133 2

134 11 30

135 52

136 54 30
138 15 10
138 57 10

139 41

139 44 17

139 39 24

139 51 23

139 50 24

139 28

140 53 30

141 36
141 59
141 29 25

132 11 30
134 50 45
134 42 51

134 39

135 5 10
135 4 15
135 46 30
135 30
135 26 35
135 12 15
135 1 59

133 48 45
132 38
131 2
130 48 20

128 35 30

128 25
130 38 43

129 46
129 51 30

129 58 50

130 50
133 23
137 22

139 4

140 43 44

144 51 50

145 34 57
140 4

Various autho
rities.

Chai't.

Japan Lt. -house
Board.

Jap. It. -ho. Bd.
Ward, 1861.

Various author.
Jap. It. -ho. Bd.
Ward, 1860.

Jap. It. -ho. Bd.

St. John, 1871,
Jap. It.-ho. Bd.

Chart.

Maxwell.
Chart.

Jap. lt,-ho. Bd.

St. John.
Maxwell.
Jap. It. -ho. Bd.

Brooker, 1868.
Richards, 1855.
Blundell.
Jap. It.-ho. Bd.
Brooker, 1868.

Jap. It.-ho. hd.
Richards, 1855.

Ward.

St. John, 1872.

St, John, 1871.

Po^^. I

OCTOBER, NOVEMBEH. DECE

THE

INDIAN ARCHITELAGO,

ETC.

CHAPTEE I.

I.— W INDS AND SEASONS.

The Great Archipelago, which lies between Asia and Australia, by far the
largest of the insular regions of the world, covering, as it does, an area of
about six millions of square British miles, has been vaguely termed, by
various authorities, the East India Islands — the Asiatic, or Eastern, or
Oriental Archipelago, or the Malay Archipelago ; but, following its great
historian, Mr. John Crawfurd, we prefer to designate it as the Indian
Archipelago, a name, also, by which it is generally recognised.

The Equator passes nearly through its centre, and thus much of it lies on
the division between the metorological systems of the North and South
hemispheres, the general particulars of which have been recounted and de-
scribed in our former works. This peculiar physical condition renders the
attempt to define the characteristics of its climatology somewhat complicated
and difficult.

It might be supposed that along this neutral line of separation, under the
great cloud-ring, as it has been termed by Captain Maury, that there would
be some uniformity of wind and weather. Not so, however, for the relative
influences of the vast land of Australia, on the one hand ; those of the con-
tinent of Asia on the other ; the direction of the evaporating winds blowing
over the Indian Ocean to the West, or over the Pacific Ocean on the eastern
side, cause the climate and characteristic weather of the eastern or western
portions of the Archipelago to be very difi'erent from each other.

For these reasons the changes in the monsoons, the alternation of the
wet and dry seasons, in some parts, are very puzzling and difficult of expla-
nation ; a fact, also, due in some degree to the want of long series of accurate
observations which would be required to elucidate them.

2 WINDS AND SEASONS.

A large portion of the islands thus lies in what has been termed the
" doldrums " of mid-ocean, and on the line of the maximum rain fall. This
latter arises from the trade-winds in passing over the ocean, evaporating so
much from the surface, that on their reaching this central line, or before that
occurs, the winds become surcharged, and great deposition follows. It will
be manifest that the case is altered when the wind has to pass over great
breadths of arid land, and thus arises the complication caused by the reversed
monsoons.

The disturbing e£Pect of land influences on the great aerial currents, is
more apparent in the Indian Seas than in any other part of the world. The
result is a complete reversal of the N.E. trade, and in a minor degree of the
S.E. trade wind, producing the well-known phenomena of the monsoons —
winds which blow one-half the year in one direction, and in the other half ia
the opposite.

In the northern winter, when the sun is South of the Equator, and the
great Asiatic continent is cool, the regular N.E. trade-wmd prevails over
the whole region North of the Equatorial calms, and is generally known as
the North-east Monsoon, which is only liable to local deflection consequent on
the direction of the land, its mountains, or the channels which separate the
islands. To the South of the equatorial calms, the S.E. trade prevails
throughout the season of October to April, when the sun is in southern
signs ; and therefore, in the western portion of the area now under consi-
sideration, the winds pursue their ordinary courses.

But when the sun enters into North latitude, or in the northern summer,
and especially about the northern solstice, it is vertical over an immense
area of land South of the Himalaya Mountains, the desert regions of Arabia,
the burning plains of Western India, countries where the earth is fire, and
the wind flame ; and when this intense heat is extended to the southern por-
tions of China, the S.E. trade-wind, receiving a northern impulse, follows up
the retreating N.E. trade to the foot of the Himalayas, towards the northern
tropic, drawn thither by the intense heat of the vertical sun, receiving this
northern impulse, and that impulse carrying it into a region of less rotatory
velocity than that which it has left, it assumes a relative S. W. direction, and
is called the South-west Monsoon.

The features and seasons of this wonderful wind have been recounted in
our volume on the Indian Ocean, pages 32 — 58 ; and it is there shown that
it has a progressive course northward, in its greatest strength, along the
African coast, reaching Bombay nearly a month later than it sets in in the
commencement.

The effects of this S.W. monsoon are felt very far beyond the coasts, upon
which its first furies fall in the burst of their commencement. The high
temperature it brings advances so far to the North, that over ground per-

WIN])S AND SEASONS. .1

petually frozen at the depth of a few feet, the limit of arboreal vegetation
extends in Siberia, even to 72° N. latitude.

While this deflected S.E. trade-wind, in the form of the S.W. monsoon,
North of the Equator, is blowing between May and October, the S.E. trade
proper prevails over all that part of the Indian Ocean which is not skirted
to the South by large tracts of land. Where this is the case, as in the
Java Seas as far as New Guinea, which lie North of the great Australian
continent, there is again a double maximum temperature in the sea and the
land, and the phenomenon of a N.W. monsoon taking the place of the S.E.
trade.

The monsoons, therefore, of the Indian Archipelago are not two in number,
but are four — the N.E. and S.W. to the North of the equator, and the S.E.
and N.W. to the South of the line. To the two first the northern parts of
Sumatra, Borneo, and Celebes, the Philippine Islands, and the Malay Pe-
ninsula, as well as the whole of the China Sea, are subject. To the two
latter the southern parts of the above-named islands, with the range between
Java and New Gruinea, and the northern part of Australia, are subjected.

There is one natural indication of this superabundant rainfall in the ex-
uberant vegetation manifest in most parts of the Archipelago. The greater
portion is covered with one vast ever-verdant forest, clothing the land and
the mountains from the shore to the summits of their loftiest peaks. In
some parts this dense and gloomy jungle is not seen, and in its place are
arid hills and plains, scantily covered with shrubs and trees.

The naturalist, Mr. Wallace, has well defined these and other characteris-
tics, which need not be detailed here. A few words will suflB.ce. Sumatra,
New Guinea, Borneo, the Philippines, and the Moluccas, are all forest
countries, except a few small and unimportant tracts. To this there is one
important exception in the island of Timor, and all the smaller islands
opposite, in which there is absolutely no forest, such as exists in the other
islands, and their character extends in a lesser degree to Flores, Sumbawa,
Lombok, and Bali. f

In Timor and the islands between it and Java the vegetation is of the
same character as that of Australia. This peculiar character is most pro-
bably owing to their proximity to that great continent. The S.E. monsoon
which lasts for about two-thirds of the year (from March to November)
blowing over the northern parts of that country, produces a degree of heat
and dryness which assimilates the vegetation and general aspect of the adja-
cent islands to its own. A liitle farther eastward, in Timorlaut and the Ki
Islands, a moister climate prevails, the S.E. winds blowing from the Pacific
through Torres Straits ; and, as a consequence, every rocky islet is clothed
with verdure to its very summit. Farther West, again, as the same winds
blow over a wider and wider expanse of ocean, they have time to absorb
fresh moisture, and we accordingly find the island of Java posaessiug a less

4 WINDS AND SEASONS.

and less arid climate in the dry season, till on the extreme West, near
Batavia, rain occurs more or less all the year round, and the mountains are
everywhere clothed with forests of unexampled luxuriance.

Mr. Wallace continues — Speaking generally, the whole south-western
part of the Archipelago, including the whole range of islands from Sumatra
to Timor, with the larger half of Borneo, and the southern peninsula of
Celebes, have a dry season from April to November, with the S.E. monsoon.
This same wind, however, bends round Borneo, becoming the S.W. monsoon
in the China Sea, and bringing the rainy season to northern Borneo and the
Philippines.

In the Moluccas and New Guinea the seasons are most uncertain. In the
S.E. monsoon, from April to November, it is often stormy at sea, while on
the islands it is very fine weather. There is generally not more than two or
three months of dry, hot weather, about August and September. This is
the case in the northern extremity of Celebes and in Boruru ; whereas, in
Amboyna, July and August are the worst months in the year. In Ternate
it is difficult to find out which is the dry and which the wet season. The
same is the case at Banda, and a similar uncertainty prevails in Menado,
showing, perhaps, that the proximity of active volcanoes has a great dis-
turbing meteorological influence. In New Guinea a great amount of rain
falls more or less all the year round. On the whole, the only statement that
can be made seems to be that the countries within about 3° on each side the
equator have much rain, and not very strongly contrasted seasons, while
those more South or North in latitude have daily rains during about four
months in the year, while for five or six months there is almost a cloudless
sky and a continual drought.

There is one evidence of the uncertain nature of the aerial currents, and
of their varying direction and intensity in the frequent occurrence of water-
spouts in some localities, as in the Malacca Straits. These columns of
vapour or water, formed by a small vortex, are described at length here-
after, as seen in that strait, and are probably in some measure due to the
peculiar configuration of the transverse line mountains crossing the normal
line of direction of the prevalent winds.

These brief, general remarks will suffice to give a notion of the meteorology
of the central or equatorial portion of the Indian Archipelago North and
South of these limits. The remarks that have been given in the introduc-
tory chapter of our Indian Ocean Directory, will be equally applicable to
this portion of the world.

Storms are of rare occurrence, and typhoons are unknown. They only
occur beyond the limits of the equatorial calms, and are seldom felt so far
South as the northern part of the Philippine Islands. On the coast of
China they are experienced in both monsoons, as further alluded to here-
after.

MALACCA STEAIT. 5

In the Gulf of Siam, in the China Sea, and on the coast of China, the
alternating monsoons prevail. In the Gulf of Siam they are comparatively-
feeble and of short duration. Farther to the East and N.E. they are more
decided. The S.W. monsoon commences about the middle or end of April
in the China Sea, a little after it is felt in the Gulf of Siam and Tongking,
and before it reaches the northern part of its area It also lasts longer in
the southern part of its course than it does in the northern. It is at its
height in June, July, and August. The N.E. monsoon or the bad weather
season, sets in in the northern part of the China Sea about the end of Sep-
tember or early in October, and lasts till February or March. It sets in
"with a burst of stormy weather, lasting about a week or ten days, and is in
its strength in November, bringing much rain and a turbulent sea. In a
subsequent page a further notice of the monsoons will be found.

The ensuing remarks on this branch of our work, derived from various
sources, is arranged in a geographical order, as being most convenient for
reference. The foregoing introductory portion being sufficient to elucidate
the general subject. In them there is necessarily some repetitions. The
same topics having to be discussed in each case, necessarily involves this
repeated allusion to one subject.

MALACCA STRAIT.— Although the Malacca Strait is within the region
of the N.E. and S.W. monsoons, yet the winds are very variable within its
limits. There are various reasons for this ; the one is, that it lies almost
within the limits of the equatorial calms, and therefore the monsoons reach
it with diminished force ; another is the high land of Sumatra, which im-
pedes the course of the S.W. monsoon, and the N.E. monsoon being the
fine season here, the wind is never very strong.

The land and sea breezes are regular on the West coast of Malacca, and
also on the N.E. coast of Sumatra which limit the Strait. The monsoons
are not always regular, except when they are at their height in the sur-
rounding seas, and at the same time the winds are only moderate in the
channel, and only last a part of the day.

The north-east monsoon, which, as before stated, is the fine season, lasts
from November to May ; the S.W. monsoon, bringing rain and thunder,
generally commences at the end of April or the beginning of May, and
ceases in October. In November the winds often come from the West, and
during this monsoon the weather is in general cloudy and rainy, especially
during the period that it is strongest. In October and November, at the
end of the S.W. monsoon, the winds often vary from N.W. to W., but
when the monsoon sets in from the N.E. they are regular in November.
The winds are very strong till the month of March, but principally during
December and January. Sometimes they vary to N. or N.W., and always
during the months of the N.E. monsoon the breezes from the West last
during one or two days. During the season of the N.E. monsoon the winds

6 WINDS AND SEASONS.

vary between the N.N.E. and E.N.E. Towards the end of February and
March, and sometimes also in the beginning of April, the breezes from the
N.E. veer towards the North, and are light and variable. It is found also
that the breezes are interrupted by calms during the middle of the day, but
during the night and at sunrise they are fresh. The coast of Malacca is
much less subject to calms during this monsoon than that of Sumatra.

The south-icest monsoon is at its height in June and July. During the
four months from May to September the winds in the Strait blow principally
from S.W. to S., that is, when the S.W. monsoon is at its greatest height in
the open sea. During this monsoon calms occur on the N.E. coast of Su-
matra, but less frequently there than on the coast of Malacca, and they are
rarely of long duration. In general it is calm in the middle of the day, and
fresh breezes in the night and at sunrise. It is only in the northern part of
the Strait of Malacca that the monsoons are regular.

During the S.W. monsoon sudden and heavy squalls come off the Sumatra
coast, generally during the early part of the night. From their direction
they are called Sumatras, and are accompanied by loud thunder and heavy
rain. They are probably occasioned by the mountains on the Pedir coast,
and blow sometimes for six or eight hours at a time, strongest at their
commencement. In Malacca Eoad they generally set in at 7 or 8 p.m., and
are at their height at midnight, and have caused many ships to part their
cables.

The wind does not often come from the N.W., but at times it blows right
through to Singapore. They come on very suddenly and violently, but do
not last long. They are generally preceded by a black cloudy arch, rising
rapidly from the horizon toward the zenith, which only allows sufficient
monition to reduce sail as quickly as possible, and should a ship be at an-
chor, she should immediately weigh, or the burst of the storm will not allow
her to do so.

Water Spouts. — In the very excellent and graphic account of the Horsburgh
Lighthouse and its erection in the Strait of Malacca, by J. T. Thomson, Esq.,
F.R.Gr.S., are some interesting remarks on this curious phenomenon, which,
as before stated, is somewhat fi-equent in these seas. The opportunities
afforded during the progress of the works in 1847 — 1851 gave many unusu-
allv good opportunities for observing the peculiarities of their action, of
which the following good account is given : —

The curious phenomenon, popularly known as the water-spout, was fre-
quently seen in the Straits, and on two occasions I was fortunate enough to
observe them in full action, at a distance of little less than half a mile. On
the first occasion, when on board the gun-boat Charlotte, off Barbukit Point,
at 4 p.m. on the 29th May, a heavy cloud, with rain about to fall from it,
was observed to be approuchiug, driven by the S.W. breeze then blowing.

WATER SPOUTS. 7

To the southward the atmosphere was observed to be damp and hazy, while
to the North it was clear and dry. On the rain reaching the sea a vapour
tube was seen to protrude in the midst from the cloud downwards, gradually
lessening in its diameter till it reached two-thirds of the distance between
the cloud and the sea, and below which point the tube did not descend. The
altitude of the cloud was judged to be about 1,000 feet above the surface.
A small attenuated column of white vapour was now noticed to rise out of
the sea with a hissing noise, and which was soon surrounded by white
vapour disengaged therefrom.

This column quickly effected a junction with the large and heavy vapour
tube depending from above, into the centre of which it seemed to be re-
ceived. The water-spout played for about five minutes, during which time
the depending tube appeared alternately elongated and shortened, and the
vapour surrounding it maintained a spiral motion. The day was hot.

Again, on the 1st of July another was seen from Pedra Branca, bearing
S.W., and approaching the rock. This was at 4.15 p.m. The height of the
spout seemed to be nearly 1,000 feet, and its diameter halfway up 50. The
depending tube revolved with the hands of a watch, or from West by the
North to East, &c. In this one, which was of very large diameter, two
columns or tubes of vapour seemed to be in action, one within the other.
The depending one, whose massive and opaque vapour was derived from the
cloud, enveloped the other, which was thin and attenuated and rose from the
sea, with the noise above described, and entered the lower end of the de-
pending tube, through which it seemed to ascend up to the cloud.

The ascending column, as usual, disengaged much white vapour from the
surface of the sea, and with which its lower end was surrounded. This
water-spout depended from a nimbus, and rain was falling all round it.
The nimbus was travelling N.E., and the water-spout was on the advanced
edge of it. At 4.25 the depending tube gradually wasted away, until it
vanished, when the white vapour of the ascending column parted from the
surface of the sea and ascended, like the curling of smoke, up towards the
cloud, at the same time the hissing noise ceased, and the surrounding minute
spray entirely disappeared.* The atmosphere was clear and dry to the N.E.,
but rainy and threatening to the S.W., from whence the nimbus travelled.
Probably twenty others were seen during the season, but at too great dis-
tances for satisfactory observations.

It was invariably remarked that water-spouts formed themselves in rain-
clouds, or nimbi, at a time when the rain was about to fall or had fallen for
a short time ; the state of the atmosphere favourable to their formation

* In this one I observed what was entirely new to me, viz., that the particles of vapour
contained in the outer and dependent tube, besides being driven in the helical curve round
the inner or ascending column, revolved also round the threads of the helix.

8 WINDS AND SEASONS.

would therefore appear to be just when the capability of the air to support
the cloud was in a balanced state.

Squalls. — The larger atmospherical disturbances of squalls formed also in-
teresting objects of observation, the frequency of their occurrence in the
Straits of Malacca, and the force with which they sometimes press on the
sail, render them of too much consequence to the frequenter of these seas to
be lightly considered.

The squalls may be divided into local and general, the first forming in the
isolated hills, and influencing the immediate districts only, and the latter
termed the " Sumatras," as they invariably come from that island, affecting
hundreds of miles on the same day.

The local squalls were observed to form on the only high hills within
view from Pedra Branca, viz., Bintang and Barbukit. During the calm
months of May and June, should the day be more than usually hot, by noon
the moisture of the atmosphere was invariably seen to condense on the cool
tops of these eminences, and form into high accumulated masses of vapour,
by one or two o'clock the atmosphere being refrigerated and rendered dense
in the process would rush down from the summits, displacing the hot and
rarified air of the plains, and cooling with its accompanying showers the
parched soil. At the change of the monsoons, before either had set in to
blow regularly, the local squalls would be seen to spread themselves out
from the locality of their formation equally in all directions, upon the sur-
rounding plains. But when either monsoon was blowing, they would be
carried in the direction of the prevailing wind, — during the S.W. monsoon
towards the N. and N.E., and during the N.E. monsoon towards the S. and
S.W. Even during the height of the N.E. monsoon, which blows more
steadily than the S.W. one, at night its under current of air would always
moderate, if not cease, though, as might be seen by the travelling clouds
above, the upper current was not arrested in its progress. At the latter end
of the monsoon it has not power to overcome the density of the air over-
spreading the peninsula, created during the cool of the night, until 10 and
12 and even 4 o'clock of the following day. On such occasions, if the
weather be fair and hot, the atmosphere will have condensed its vapour on
Barbukit Hill, and from whence heavy squalls will proceed across the Straits
of Singapore, assisted by the monsoon. Of this we had many instances,
heavy N.E. squalls having taken the gun-boats inside of the Straits, while
at the same moment, 10 miles distant, an agreeable and permanent N.E.
breeze has been experienced out at Pedra Branca.

The laws that have been observed to generate and direct the local squalls
may be safely assumed to operate in the same manner, with regard to the
general squalls or " Sumatras" that in the Straits come from the direction
of that island during the S.W. monsoon. In Sumatra the regular prevailing
wind may be supposed to meet obstruction in the high range of mountains.

SINGAPORE. 9

that intersect the island in a longitudinal direction, and not having strength
at all times to overcome the barrier, is curbed, until, as has been seen to be
the case with the local squalls, condensed air has been formed on the high-
lands, which, with its accompanying vapours, rushes down to displace the
heated and rarified atmosphere of the valleys and plains on the lee, and
being at the same time urged on by the pent up force of the monsoon now
let loose, stretches itself far and wide over the Malacca Straits and the
generally low-lying surface of the Malayan Peninsula.

These ** Sumatras " were found to arrive at Pedra Branca between the
hours of 3 and 8 a.m., and if we be allowed to infer with regard to their
time of origin that it is the same as obtains in local squalls, viz. from 1 1 a.m.
to 4 p.m., assuming the distance travelled to be 300 miles, their rate of
progression will be 19 to 20 miles an hour. This was corroborated by
watching their arrival at distant high points of land seen from the rock, and
noting the interval of time consumed in their coming to the rock. A storm
or gale is generally estimated to travel at the rate of 32 miles an hour ; but
it is only for the first few minutes that a " Sumatra " assumes this character,
and this only in sudden puffs; they soon decrease in force to a high wind,
which is said to travel at the rate of 16 or 17 miles an hour. The approach.
of a " Sumatra " has much to attract the attention of the student of nature.
The most imposing characteristic is in the immense arch that it forms,
stretching from the zenith to opposite points of the horizon and below the
arch, which is of the darkest hue, there are suspended dark grey vapours,
about to descend on the surface of the earth. Above the dark arch will be
seen light grey fog banks, over which a slighter arch will be spanning, and
which is again crowned by white fleecy clouds, contrasting, if the squall
approach at daylight, strongly with the blue sky above and the dark masses
below.

SINGAPORE. — The following remarks on the climate, &c., of Singapore
are by Dr. E. Little, derived from tables furnished him by Captain Elliott,
M.E. They are very important, being based on adequate and well digested
data. They are therefore given more at length than in other cases : —

Singapore, though within 80 miles of the equator, through its abundancr>
of moisture, either deposited by the dews or gentle refreshing showers, keepf
its atmosphere cool, prevents the parching effect of the sun, and promotes
continual verdure. It never experiences furious gales. If more than ordi-
nary heat has accumulated moisture and electricity, a squall generally sets
in, followed by a heavy shower of rain ; these squalls never exceed one or
two hours in duration. According as the monsoon blows, you will have
them rising in that direction. In 1841, during the N.E. monsoon, there
were four squalls from that direction ; but the most severe and numerous
are from the S.W., which are called Sumatras, and they most frequently
occur between 1 and 5 in the morning. The N.E. monsoon blows from
I. A.

WINDS AND SEASONS.

November to March, and after which the wind veers round to S.E., and
gradually sets into the S.W., between which points it continues in May,
June, July, and September. The N.E. monsoon blows more steadily than
the S.W. one. The temperature of Singapore is one or two degrees cooler
during the former than the latter, which also brings more rain. It is further
remarked that the wind always lulls at night, during the height of either
monsoon. Daring the S.W. monsoon a wind from the South prevails at
times, which is termed by the natives Angin Jawa, or Java winds, because
it comes from the direction of that island. This especially exists in Septem-
ber, which is attributed to the usual cooling land breeze being replaced in
the mornings during that month by the hotter breeze from the sea ; as we
advance into the interior this hot breeze is not felt.

TABLE OF THE WINDS.

MONTHS.

January . ,
February
March ....
April ....

May

June . • , ,

July

August . .
September
October . .
November
December

Total.

Number of Hours in which the Wind
is in each Quarter.

N.W.

S.W.

N.E.
2,097

1,389

645

105

2,154

422

276

2,145

746

1,213

1,106

524

1,070

356

343

1,627

286

456

2,142

185

661

1,737

210

481

1,332

287

941

1,048

726

1,085

412

431

1,207

237

1,370

8,899

11,293

11,347

S.E.

126

277

537

655

1,028

1,549

925

1,080

704

347

231

162

7,621

These observations
} were taken during
five years.

Four years.

Three years.
Four years.

How beautiful an illustration, exclaims the writer, of the little variation
we find in the general laws of nature ; though how often do we remark how
changeable is the weather. From these observations, carried on nearly five
years, the wind blows from the N.E. during 474 days 9 hours, from the
opposite direction, S.W., during the contrary monsoon, 470 days 13 hours;
another deduction is made, that during the months of December, January,

RAIN AT SINGAPORE.

February, and March, the wind blows more continuously from the N.E.
than any other direction ; while in the months of June, July, August, and
September, the wind is principally to the S.W. During November the pre-
vailing wind is N.W., while its antagonist, S.E., blows in the month of
June. Another fact is elicited, viz., that in April we have the winds blow-
ing from the direction of N.W. and N.E. 1,852 hours ; and from the S.W.
and S.E. 1,868 hours. In October we have them blowing from the N.W.
and N.E. 1,567 hours; and from the S.W. and S.E. 1,'395 hours : thus the
wind, in changing from the N.E. monsoon to the S.W., seems to do so
gradually from N.E. to N.N.E., then N.W. to West, then S.W. ; and, in
changing from the S.W. to the N.E., retraces its progress by retaining: its
westerly direction, and not reaching the N.E. by S., then S.E. and E., but
adopting the same direction, by which it reached the S.W. from N.E., viz.,
a westerly.

In the same paper the following facts' are announced with regard to the
fall of rain and quantity of moisture in the atmosphere. In 1820, rain fell on
229 days; in 1821, on 203 days; in 1824, on 136 days; and in 1825, on 171
days ; giving an average on 4 years of 185 rainy days, and 180 dry in ayear.
The quantity of rain that falls is well illustrated in the following table : —

FALL OF RAIN AT THE SINGAPORE OBSERVATORY.

SHOWN BY THE NXTMBER OF INCHES.

Months.

1841

1842

1843

1844

Total of
4 years.

Average of
1 year.

January

Inches.
3.750

Inches.
22.585

Inches.
18.070

Inches.
10.219

Inches.
54.624

Inches.
13.656

February

6.750

10.900

3.050

6.923

27.623

6.905

March

5.009

7.220

8.045

4.150

24.424

6.106

April

3.010

10.071

5.645

12.300

31.035

7.758

May

6.095

9.003

9.000

7.775

31.873

7.968

June

7.490
7.228

6.320
5.098

2.270
8.500

6.025
5.890

22.105
26.716

5.526

July

6.679

August

7.095

6.025

5.545

5.750

24.415

6.103

September

4.220

4.250

4.055

5.075

17.600

4.400

October

4.070
12.225

21.005
9.420

12.145
9.560

10.200
6.060

47.420
37.265

11.855

November

9.316

December

6.175

4.350

3.415

8.750

25.690

6.422

Totals

73.126

116.244

92,300

89.117

370.790

92.697

12 WINDS AND SEASONS.

It will be observed, from the above, that the greatest fall of rain during
these four years occui'red in January, 1842, and the least in June, 1843.
The year 1841 was unusually dry, 73 inches only having fallen, while the suc-
ceeding was unusually wet, 116 inches having fallen. This was caused by
the unusual drj^ness of January and October, in the former year ; and the
unusual wetness of both in the latter. By examining the average for each
month, the seasons will be found to be very equable, the least average being
for September and June, which respectively have 4.400 and 5.526 inches,
and the greatest being, for January and October respectively, 13.656 and
11.855 innhes. During the other months the rain averages from 6 to 9 in-
ches. The annual average fall is 92.697 inches, a quantity which is about 2
inches less than the average fall for the latitude of Singapore, as stated by
Humboldt, who gives 96 inches as the average fall at the equator.

With regard to the temperature of the atmosphere, in 1841 to 1845, the
mean was 81°. 247, the lowest mean of a month being, for January, 72°. 55,
the temperature increases to May, June, and July, which have 82°. 30, 82°.29,
and 82°. 24 respectively. It is concluded, from the above, that the tempera-
ture of Singapore is 2°. 90 less than other localities in similar latitudes, and
that the range between the mean temperature of May and January extends
over 2°.76, and adding up the mean temperature of each month of each year,
we have the mean temperature as follows : —

Of 1841 1842 1843 1844 and 1845
As 81.28 81.6 81.09 80.82 and 81.66
From which this inference is drawn, that in five successive years the mean
temperature did not vary one degree.

Deduction made from other tables gave the maximum temperature for five
years at 87°. 5, and the extreme minimum 7 4°. 7 ; the former occurred in June,
1842, and the latter in January, 1843, giving the greatest range as 9°. 8. To
this I may add, that I have seen the thermometer down to 68°.5 in January
of the present year, at Bonny Grass, the residence of Dr. Little, where the
thermometer was hung iu a building, well protected from the sun, but open
on all sides.

From observations taken by Captain Davis during six years, the mean
temperat;ire was —

In 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 and 1825
As 79.5 79.5 80.2 79.8 81.0 and 81.4

These observations were taken at 6 a.m. and noon, and the following taken
at Singapore Observatory, during the same hours, gives —

In 1841 1842 1843 1844 and 1845
As 82.0 82.08 81.58 83.7 and 84.©4

Thus showing that, in 20 years, the temperature of Singapore Town has in-
creased 2°.48. The cause of this advance of the temperature is assigned to

STRAIT OF BANKA, ETC. 13

the country, within 3 miles of the town, being now clear of jungle, and cul-
tivated, which formerly was covered with primeval forest.

Dr. Little concludes his remarks by stating the mean annual solar radia-
tion to be 12r.50, the mean terrestrial 66°. 10, and the hourly mean reading
of the barometer 29.884 inches, which never varies more than the twentieth
of an inch.

Thunder showers frequently occur, particularly at the breaking up of the
monsoons. That interesting and wonderful atmospherical phenumenon,
called a water spout, is often to be seen in the seas and straits adjacent ;
they would more properly be called whirlwinds charged with vapour. They
occur generally in the morning, between eight and twelve o'clock, and rise
to the height of half a mile, in the distance appearing like large columns,
supporting the heavy masses of Cumuli above them. I noticed, in October,
1841, six of these attached to one cloud, under action at the same time. In
August, 1838, one passed over the town and harbour of Singapore, dismast-
ing one ship, and sinking another, and carrying off the comer of the roof of
a house in its passage landward. No other atmospherical disturbances of
any moment occur. The typhoons of the China Sea, or Bay of Bengal, do
not reach these parts, nor are there hot winds to parch the land. The
equable and quiet state of the atmosphere and seasons of these regions con-
sequently create analogous properties in the face of indiginous vegetation.
Evergreens abound, few trees shed all their leaves at one time, and many of
fruit trees produce all the year round ; such that have their seasons of
fruit will frequently produce their crops out of season, having small irregular
ones at intervening times. This continual verdure is perhaps more grateful
to the eye of the stranger than to those who have been accustomed to it ; to
the former it bears the pleasant appearance of exuberance and fecundity,
where the lofty forest not only hangs over the beach, but clothes the moun-
tains to their tops, so unlike the sterile bareness of higher latitudes ; while
to the other, the continued sameness palls the senses, which lack variety and
call for a sterile winter only that they may renew, with doubly keen concep-
tion by the contrast, their acquaintance with the beauties of returning
summer that here always reigns.

STEAIT of BANKA, &c.— The winds in Banka Strait follow the direction
of the coasts, though with slight variations from the influence of the land and
sea breezes ; and fresh breezes may always be expected when working against
the monsoon.

During the shifting months of the S.E. monsoon, sailing vessels are often
five and six weeks in making the passage from Singapore to Banka Strait.
In the month of September H.M.S. Saracen had the S.E. monsoon strong,
with much rain ; about the equinox there were several heavy squalls. This
monsoon is generally supposed to shift about the beginning of October, but
during the whole of this month the wind was only 4 hours from the north-

14 WINDS AND SEASONS.

ward, there being a succession of calms, light southerly airs, a close muggy
atmosphere surcharged with electricity, and frequent heavy Sumatra squalls
or south-westers. On the 9th of November the monsoon shifted with furious
gusts.

These squalls at this season generally take place at night, accompanied
with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. They are of short duration, and
it was noticed that when one occurs about the time of full and change,
another may be expected an hour later every night till the next change of
the moon.

In the Strait of Sunda the winds vary between S.S.E. and E.S.E. from
April to October, and are then called the eastern monsoon. They are gene-
rally W.N. W. and N.W. during the western monsoon, which succeeds the
preceding one. This monsoon comes in November, and brings bad weather.
There are alternate breezes in this strait ; they blow from the South before
noon, and from the North in the afternoon, and are separated by an interval
of calm.

On the South Coast of Java the wind blows from the N.W., while the N.E.
monsoon is blowing to the North of the line, from October to April : it ceases
in March. In April the winds are variable ; and in May are settled in the
East. The weather is fine, and the winds are strongest from June to
August. In October the S.E. monsoon becomes weaker; and, till the re-
turn of the N.W. monsoon, the winds are variable. In May and November
a great deal ctf rain falls on this coast. In February and the first part of
the month of March, as well as in October, that is when the monsoon changes,
the land and sea breezes are alternately regular ; they are weaker in October,
February, and March. In these two last months, and also in April, the land
breezes commense with squalls, or at times with a heavy storm. After tins
has passed, the breezes from the land are moderate till the return of the sea
breeze. In April and May, on this coast, the sea breeze commences with a
heavy squall, or a storm, which does not last long.

JAVA SEA. — The following summary is by Captain Jansen, as quoted
by M. Krecke: —

During the month of February the westerly monsoon is still strong and
steady : in March it is interrupted by calms and squalls, which become less
frequent and less violent in April. Now the easterly winds burst in suddenly ;
clouds Collect and darken the sky, while there are incessant thunderstorms
by day and night, and waterspouts are very common.

If the wind changes again to West or North, the sky clears again ; but this
wind does not last, and the clouds soon re-appear. The rain gradually ceases
during the day time, and the S.E. winds prevail throughout the mouth of
May. At the time of the reverse change of the East to the West monsoon,
the calms last for a shorter period, as the wind assumes a decided N.W.
direction at once, and the showers of rain, accompanied by violent squalls,

JAVA SEA. 15

are felt only for a short time. Thunder storms are abundant, but only on
land, or close to the coast. Toward the end of November the N.W. mon-
soon is again permanent.

On the North Coast of Java, from May to July, the winds blow from the
S.E. with a return of the opposite winds, which vary to the N.E. near the
West point of the island. During the S.E. monsoon, the winds are S.S.E.,
varying to E.S.E., and it is fine weather. In October the winds are light,
weak, and variable. The N.W. monsoon generally commences in October,
but sometimes it occurs in September, or is retarded till November, and ends
in March. This is the season of the heavy rains. In the month of Decem-
ber the West winds predominate. Towards the middle of February squalls
and tempests occur, accompanied by rain. At Batavia, from April to No-
vember, the weather is tolerably fine ; but, after that, rain ensues till the end
of the year.

On the Southern Coast of Borneo, from thePulo-Laut to the Strait of Sunda,
the S.E. monsoon prevails from May to September, like the West of Java.
At the same time, in the Indian Ocean, the S.W. monsoon is found to the
North of the line. From September to April the West winds blow on this
coast, the rams are constant, and the weather often very bad. During the
S.E. monsoon the weather, though still humid, is less rainy than during the
N.W. monsoon.

Observations carried on for a series of years (1850 — 1856) at Palemhang,
on the N.W. coast of the south-eastern part of Sumatra, have led to the
foUowing results: — From November to March the prevalent winds are
westerly and north-westerly. This is the regular rainy season during the
West monsoon. April is the month of the change of the monsoons, when
thunderstorms are most frequent. From May till September, easterly and
south-easterly winds (of the East monsoon) are permanent, and the change
comes in September or October.

From this it appears that the wind shifts pretty regularly round the com-
pass, for its mean direction for each month in rotation, counting from South
to West, is —

Jan. Feb. March. April. Slay. June.

S. 7° W. I S. 20° W. I S. 30° W. | W. 2a° N. | W. 79^ N. | W. ^b" N.

July. Augn.'st. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.

K. 6° E. I N. 21° E. I N. lt>° E. ] N. 2o° E. | E. 30° S. | S. 4° W.

At Banjermassing, on the South coast of Borneo, the S.W. monsoon prevails
from December to March ; the S.E. monsoon from April to October. The
change seems to be of short duration. Rain is most abundant from July to
October, while thunderstorms are more frequent in the months of November,
December, and May, at times consequently later than the changes of the
monsoons. There is, ho wever, in this respect, a considerable variation be-

16 . WINDS AND SEASONS.

tween individual years. In 1851, eighteen thunderstorms were observed,
while eighty-three took place in 1857.

A close examination of the direction of the wind leads to the following
results : — The predominant direction of the wind in December is S.W. and
W.S.W., and it becomes more westerly in January and February. In
March the direction during the day is less constant. In April the S.E. wind
becomes prevalent, and increases in steadiness up to August and September.
In October it gets round to the southward. In November this is the case,
in the morning hours, in a still higher degree ; in fact, in the afternoon the
wind goes somewhat past the South towards the West. At last, in Decem-
ber, the S.W. monsoon is definitely established. — {Kreclce.)

GTJLF of SIAM. — The following account of the winds and weather is by
Lieutenant John Eichards, E..N., who surveyed the guK in H.M.S. Saracen,
in 1855-8. The N.E. monsoon in the Gulf of Siam sets in early in Novem-
ber. It is usually preceded by a month of squally, variable, and uncertain
weather.

In the months of November, December, and January, the wind blows be-
tween N.N.E. and East ; generally strong breezes, with the temperature
occasionally as low as 65°. Along the eastern shore of the gulf at this time
the sky is frequently unclouded for a week together, but on the opposite
coast the weather is wet and stormy.

In November and December, strong squalls, with heavy thunder and light-
ning, are occasionally met with near Pulo Panjang.

Towards the end of January the wind blows more from the eastward, is
steadier, and abates in strength.

In February the wind is more constant from E.S.E. than from any other
point; it veers between S.E. and N.E., with occasional calms and squalls.
Fine weather and smooth water now prevail all over the gulf.

In March the monsoon cannot be depended on. In the middle of the
gulf calms prevail ; with southerly winds near the shore, and occasional land
and sea breezes. Towards the end of the month the weather becomes hot
and sultry.

April is the hottest month of the year ; calms may be expected near the
middle of the gulf ; land and sea breezes near the shore, and occasional
slight squalls. From the 2nd of April until the 15th of May, 1856, the
Saracen remained at anchor off the Bangkok Bar, during which interval the
river was siirveyed, and the four-mile boundary line round the town of
Bangkok defined. Towards the middle of April the weather changed, and
became gloomy and threatening ; at the latter end of the month there were
several days continuous and heavy rain, after which the weather became
snowery, and continued so during the remainder of the above period. On
the 15th the Saracen sailed for Singapore, and in the upper part of the
gulf had calms and light winds from the eastward, drawing round to the

CAMBODIA. •■ 17

sontliward as the Itedang- Islands were neared. A southerly current was
experienced the whole way down to Pulo Aor.

S. TV, Monxoon. — In May clouds begin to bank up, and an occasional shower
relieves the intensity of a vertical sun. The S.W. monsoon sets in about
the middle of the month, sometimes preceded by light flaws of wind and fine
weather, but usually with squally weather, and occasional heavy falls of rain.
In June, July, and August the S.W. monsoon blows strong, with occasional
showers, but generally very fine weather along the western shore of the
Gulf; oxit in the middle a rough sea, and along the eastern shore strong
breezes with much rain, and occasionally a fresh gale.

In September the wind is very unsteady, veering between S.W. and
W.N.W. in strong gusts. Heavy and continuous rain may be expected in
this month.

In October the wind veers between West and North, and abates consi-
derably in strength ; the rain squalls are less frequent. Towards the end of
the month the wind settles in the North, and the cold weather and fine sea-
son set in. Vessels bound to the Gulf from Hong Kong will not profit much
by leaving China earlier than the middle of this month.

At the bar of Bangkok Eiver land and sea breezes generally prevail,
veering by the East or West according to the monsoon.

The S.W. monsoon is scarcely felt close in shore, between Cape Patani
and the Eedang Islands, its course being inten-upted by the high land in
that neighbourhood. To the southward of Pulo Kapas it takes the direction
of the coast, veering a few points on or off shore by day or night, under the
influence, alternately, of the sea and land breezes.

White squalls are said to prevail in the Gulf, particularly in the month
of May.

Black squalls are frequent in the S.W. monsooh ; they rise in the west-
ward, accompanied by a heavy bank of clouds, and blow with great violence
for a short time, and are frequently accompanied by heavy rain.

Heavy gales are unknown in the Gulf.

Cambodia. — On the coast of Cambodia, in June, July, and August, there
are heavy rains, accompanied by S.W. winds. The monsoons are not regular
on this coast, and land and sea breezes are met with when the prevailing
monsoon is weak. The breezes do not last more than five or six hours
during the S.W. monsoon, and are not so Iresh as those which prevail at
the end of the N.E. monsoon. In Pulo Timoan and Pulo Condore the N.E.
monsoon is established towards the 15th of October with fine weather. The
S.W. monsoon brings rain, and lasts during eight months. Near these
islands, in November, there are alternately calms, storms, accompanied by
rain, and typhoons. At Pulo Condore the rains last for a month after the
N.E. monsoon is established, and at Pulo Timoan the wind becomes un-
settled in September, and the change of monsoon brings bad weather. In

I. A. i>

IS WINDS AND SEASONS.

November the weather is fine. On the coast which extends between the
Gulf of Siam and Cape Padaran the S.W. monsoon blows along the shore.
Sometimes, near the land, during the night, a light land breeze is found
succeeded by an interval of calm, which is followed by the wind <if the mon-
soim, wliich blows fresh during the rest of the day. On the same coast the
N.E. monsoon is established from the end of September or beginning of
October to the middle of April.

Cochin China. — On the coast of Cochin China wintry weather is found
with cold northerly winds and rain, which prevail from December to Febru-
ary. Heavy rains occur in the months of September, October, and Novem-
ber. During the N.E. monsoon easterly winds are frequent. Between the
Paracels and the coast the same wind is found as far as Cape Varela ; and
in this channel calms are frequent, while on the offing from this bank the
monsoon blows fresh and regularly. During the S.W. monsoon, on this
coabt, the land and sea breezes are tolerably regular, the sea breeze being
replaced by a land breeze every evening, which blows every night, followed
by a calm light wind, although not always commencing at the same time.
This wind generally lasts till noon, when the S.E. wind again sets in. On
the coast of Cochin China the winds are variable during the whole year, and
the monsoons generally light. The leeward coast is not dangerous with the
N.E. monsoon.

The EASTERN PASSAGES.— The foregoing reuarks refer to the great
highways which lead directly into the China Sea from the Indian Ocean,
and are taken by most ships during the favourable monsoon.

The following will describe the winds and weather of that part of the
Indian Archipelago to the eastward of Java, among the islands and channels
which are sometimes called the eastern passages, those used during the ad-
verse monsoon. Some of these remarks are extracted from the late Captain
de Kerhallet's work on the meteorology, &c., of this region.

Around the islands East of the Strait of Sunda, as far as Timor, the mon-
soons are the same as have been described before ; that from the East com-
mences in May, and tlie winds vary from East to S.S.E. These winds are
strongest in June and July. This monsoon is finer than that from the West,
which brings bad weather during November and December. The rains
commence in this month, accompanied by squalls and winds. The western
monsoon commences in November, and attains its greatest force in January.
The rains tall from December to the middle of February, accompanied by
storms and tempests. Then the monsoon gradually weakens till March ; in
April the winds are variable, and the weather is fine.

Among the Archipelago and the intervening seas to the South and East of
Borneo there are usually two monsoons, generally called the North or West
monsoon, and the South or easterly monsoon, some saying that the wind
hangs more to North than to West in the former and mi>re South than East

ARAFUEA SEA. 19

in the latter. The first corresponds with the N.E. monsoon North of the
equator, and the second with the S.W. monsoon. But from the configuration
of the islands, the direction of their mountain chains, and the efi'ect these
have in causing the rain clouds to deposit their moisture, these alternating
monsoons are much less regular than they are in the open ocean, far from
these disturbing causes. In general, it may be remarked that to the South
of the equator, as far as the parallels of 10° or 12° S., the direction of the
wind differs ten or twelve points from that prevailing to the North of the
equator at the same period ; that is, to the North of the equator if the wind
or monsoon is from Narth, that to the South of the line will be N.N.W. ;
and if the southerly monsoon is blowing North of the equator, in the Eastern
Passages, it will be from E.S.E. or East,

In the Strait of Bali the wind often blows from the North with much
violence, and in that of Sapy there are alternate breezes from land and sea.
They blow from the South in the morning, and from the North about two
hours after noon. There is often an interval of calm between them. In the
other straits, to the East of Java, the winds are of a singular nature, and
also very variable.

In the Java Sea, as in the neighbourhood of the Moluccas, the N.W.
monsoon commences in the first part of November, but does not attain its
greatest force till near the end of December. It lasts till the end of March,
when the intervals of calm commence, with variable winds, squalls, and
rain. The S.E. monsoon commences in April, and gets gradually stronger
till May ; it ends in October, during which month the winds are variable.
This is the law generally observed in these two seas, except that it must be
remembered that there are variations in the direction ; it draws sometimes
to the North and West, and sometimes to the South and East. Besides this,
the changes of the monsoons do not take place at settled times ; that of the
S.E. is subject to calms, and the wind is less stormy, while it lasts, than
during that of the N.W. monsoon.

Arafura Sea.— In the sea lying between New Guinea and Timor, the
easterly monsoon commences in April, and continues until the beginning of
October, when, after a few weeks of variable winds, the westerly monsoon
sets in, and continues without intermission until the beginning of March.
In the southern part of the Indian Archipelago generally, the easterly mon-
soon is attended with fine weather, but on the S.W. coast of New Guinea,
and among the islands to the westward, as far as the East coast of Celebes,
frequently squalls, with heavy rain, are experienced at this season, often ac-
companied with considerable swell from the southward, while, during the
remainder of the year, the weather is fine. This rule, however, does not
extend farther to the westward, for from Celebes to the western extremity of
the Archipelago, and also on the North coast of Australia, the westerly is
the rainy monsoon. The monsoons, when at their height, usually blow in

20 . WINDS AND SEASONS.

an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction ; but towards the change they draw round
more to the southward, sometimes continuing several days at S.W.

The easterly monsoon brings rain, on the eastern part of the Archipelago,
as far as Celebes ; beyond this, to the westward, the westerly monsoon is the
rainy season. The effect of this on the vegetation of the different islands
has been. before alluded to. It would seem to be only accounted for by the
fact that the monsoons are deprived of their rain-cloud soon after encounter-
ing the land. The easterly monsoon, blowing over the Pacific, breaks over
New Guinea, the Moluccas, and the eastern side of Celebes, the high moun-
tains of the first-named keeping the rainfall off the North coast of Australia
and Timor. The southern part of the latter and northern Australia are open
to the westerly rain-bearing winds of the Indian Ocean.

On the West Coast of New Guinea two monsoons occur, one from the S.E.,
which lasts from April to October ; and the other from the N.W., which
commences at the end of October, and terminates towards the end of April.
In January the wind near this island varies from N.N.W. to N.E. ; in the
spring the weather often changes ; and in March, April, and May, the
weather is squally. From June to September a great quantity of rain falls ;
and from October to May the weather is fine and calm, without clouds
or fogs.

To the North of Bourou and Ceram the S.E. monsoon varies between
S.S.E. and S.S.W., and at the Isle of Amboyna from East to S.E. In the
same isles the N."W. monsoon varies from W.S.W. to N.W. This last,
which is often called the westerly monsoon, is during the stormy season in
these isles, and ends in April. The S.E. monsoon commences in March, and
lasts till November, and is the rainy season. During this monsoon violent
storms occur in the Moluccas, and rain falls abundantly over the largest
islands of the Archipelago. This monsoon ceases in November. The North
and N."W. monsoon does not set in till some time after; for, during two
months, the winds are alway variable in these seas towards the end of the
monsoons. From October to April the weather is moderately fine.

In the Moluccas, which occupy a space between 5° North of the equator,
and 1° South latitude, the winds are much less regular, because there is a
great difference between the monsoons which exist in the two hemispheres
at the same time.

In that part of the Arafura Sea between New Gruinea and Australia,
during the month of January and the commencement of the western mon-
soon, the winds are generally from the N.E. to North, occasionally drawing
to the westward. Near the N.E. coast of Australia, as far as the parallel of
14" S., winds which vary from N.E. to W.N.W. prevail, and more to the
South they come from East and E.S.E.

Between these two monsoons there are frequent calms of long duration,
and tlie time of the change from the S.E. to the N.W. monsoon is the period

TIMOE. 21

■when these long calms mostly prevail. When the monsoon is about to be
established, westerly winds blow for five or six days ; then they cease, and
are sometimes succeeded by light variable winds for a month. Then, at the
following syzygy, the monsoon becomes established, accompanied by gloomy
rainy weather, and sometimes squalls, for two or three days. The weather
then clears, and there is a moderate breeze for some time, producing clearer
and finer -weather than is felt during the S.E. monsoon. Two or three days
•wet weather is to be expected at the time of the syzygies, although sometimes
for five or six weeks continual fine weather may have prevailed. Near the
land the weather is always more stormy and rainy than it is farther out at
sea, although at the limit of the monsoon in the parallel of 15^ S. latitude
the weather is generally wet and stormy. The mean direction of the wind
is nearly W.N.W., varying to N.W. and S.W. at the time of the syzygies ;
during these periods it is often "W.S.W.

In the Timor Sea, and that part of the sea situated between the Arru
Isles and the North coast of Australia, as well as in the vicinity of Torres
Strait, the S.E. monsoon blows with much regularity. Towards the middle
of it, from May to August, it varies from E.S.E. to S.E., and is then very
strong. The Malays call this the white season. In the beginning and near
the end of this monsoon the wind is due East, sometimes veering to E.N.E.
During this munsoon the breeze is generally fresh and steady when the
moon quarters, and we find calms and unsettled wea';her at the time of the
syzygies. This fact has also been remarked in the trade wind of the eastern
coast of Australia. In Torres Strait easterly winds prevail. The westerly
monsoon does not blow steadil}', but is often modified by the East wind,
which is then light and variable, lasting several days, till it strengthens to
a fresh breeze.

On the North-west Coast of Timor, in September and March, the N.W.
monsoon, varying to N.N.W., is in force. In April or May it is followed by
that from S.E., varying to S.S.E., which ends in October. The N.W. mon-
soon, as before stated, is the bad weather season, and the winds in December
are very violent. This monsoon is only well established at the end of
November or December, and heavy winds, accompanied by rain, blowing
between West and North, continue till February. At the end of April, or
beginning of May, the wind returns to East, varying to South ; they are
very strong on the North coast of the island, where it is then the fine season.
The strongest winds vary West by South and N.N.E. On the opposite coast
of this island there is a great diflference between the winds. The S.E. mon-
soon is very feeble on the South coast, and strong on the North. On the
South coast there are storms during the fir.st part of October ; while on the
North these are only felt in December. During the fine season the land and
sea breezes are strong on both coasts. On the South the land breeze varies
from N.E. to North, the sea breeze from S.S.E. to S.S.W.

22 WINDS AND SEASONS.

The Island of Celebes, like that of Borneo, is divided into two parts by the
equator, and the same remarks given previous! j' for the monsoons at Bnrneo,
are appliacable here. On the South coast the S.E. monsoon is established
from May to October, and the S.W. monsoon prevails on that part of the
island which is North of the equator at the same time. The S.E. monsoon,
which lasts from May to October, on the coast of Celebes, situated South of
the equator, brings the driest season. The N.W. monsoon replaces the S.E.
towards October, and continues till April, when rain is almost perpetual, and
the wind strong. During the two months when the sun is vertical over ihe
island, and near to the syzygies, there are invariably northerly winds aTid
rain. On that part of the island situated North of tlie equator, the N.E.
monsoon in October replaces the S.W., making the fine season. In the
North part of the Strait of Macassar, from May to October, a S.E. monsoon
is found on the East coast of Borneo ; also between Celebes and Grilolo, it is
succeeded by the N.W. monsoon, continuing from November to April. In
the South part of the Strait the wind is N.E. in April, May, and June ; but
there is less in August and September. During October, November, Decem-
ber, and following months, fresh breezes prevail from W.S.W. to W.N.W.
in these latitudes. Near the West coast of Celebes, from May to October,
we find land and sea breezes, while on the opposite coast of Borneo the wind
is steady from the South. From November to April, on the western const
of Celebes, the wind varies from W.S.W. to W.N.W. ; in April, May, and
June, it is from N.E., but is light during the month of August. It has
been remarked that when the S.W. wind prevails on the Celebes coast,,
about 6 leagues off the coast it becomes W.N.W. and N.W. on the coast of
Borneo. During the S.E. monsoon, from May to October, a vessel cannot
oontend against it on the low coast of Borneo ; and on this coast, in this
season, light land breezes are found, while on the corresponding coast of
Celebes, which is elevated, a fresh land wind blows during the night, followed
during the day by a sea breeze. In December we generally find alternate
winds near Celebes. In August and September the winds are light ; but
sometimes off this coast storms from the S.W. occur, and long calms.

In the Celebes Sea and Sooloo Archipelago easterly' winds prevail in October,
but are not regularly established till November. In May they are replaced
by westerly winds, and in a month become established to terminate in Oc-
tober ; the climate is then made up of rain, squalls, and tempests, which
take place generally in July and August. In September a heavy mist hanga
about the coast of Mmdanao. At the commencement of the westerly mon-
soon the winds are light for some time, with heavy rain, during which the
wind blows in an opposite direction, sometimes lasting from tlie eastward
more than a week. Occasionally heavy storms happen until the westerly
wind becomes established. During this monsoon the weather is cloudy,
rainy, and sometime;* stormy ; and in this reason we find between Mindanao

BOENEO. 2S

and Celebes that heavy storms take place from N.W. ; the westerly winds
sometimes last till November.

In the Sooloo Sen the East and N.E. monsoon is not a steady fresh breeze,
but often varies. In the neighbourhood of Mindanao the northerly winds
never blow fresh,- but are often displaced for several days by light changeable
winds, which again occurs at the end of January, and it is considered that
the same winds prevail from the Sooloo Archipelago to Manila.

The Island of Borneo forms the N.W. and western boundary of the China
Sea, and is intersected by the equator, and the result is as in Sumatra, that
the monsoons of the N.W. coast do not take place at the same time as those
on the West coast. The S.W. monsoon prevailing on the N.W. coast from
May to October, at the same time as the S.E monsoon is on the West coast,
and the N.E. monsoon blows on the N.W. coast, while the N.W. monsoon
prevails on the AVest coast. On the northern part of Borneo the S.W. mon-
Boon is not established till between the 15th and 30th of May, when there is
continual rain. The weather is not so bad in September, and the dry season
sets in with the N.E. winds, varying to the East. However, this can hardly
be called the dry season ; for, in consequence of its position under the
equator, the island is incessantly inundated with rain. On the West coast
the S.E. monsoon prevails towards the end of May, and fine weather then
sets in. From September to April the West or N.W. monsoun occurs, with
continual rain and heavy gales.

The weather at Lahuan, on the N.W. coast of Borneo, is generally very
fine ; the land and sea breezes are seldom interrupted. A large quantity of
rain falls annually, but this generally comes off the coast ot Borneo in
squalls, which most frequently oc( ur between 8 p.m. and midnight, and blow
heavily, especially in June and July. In tiie S.W. monsoon the land breeze,
which usually commences with these squalls, lasts until 7 or 8 a.m., and is a
steady, fresh breeze, whilst in the N.E. monsoon it is light and variable,
and, if blowing hard in the China Sea, it is not felt at Labuan.

The sea breeze in the S.W. monsoon usually commences at noon, and
lasts until 4 or 5 p.m., seldom exceeding a royal breeze ; but in the N.E.
monsoon it commences earlier, and lasts until 7 or 8 p.m., hanging well to
the northward, and blowing fresh. January, February, and March, are the
dry months ; only 2.2 inches of rain fell in those months in 1865.

Ihe monsoims on the coast of Palawan are so subject to interruption, being
influenced by local circumstances and other causes, that it is dilfic.ult to say
at what period either fairly sets in. The barometer is of little use in prog-
nosticating the changes ; the difierence in the column of mercurj' for the
whole year, seldom exceeding two-tenths of an inch. In general the mercury
rises to N.E. and easterly winds, and falls to S.W. and westerly.

In January to April moderate N.E. and easterly winds prevail on the
coast of Palawan, and on the coast of Luzon land and sea breezes have been

24 WINDS AND SEASONS.

experienced with considerable regularity. May, and the early part of June,
appear to be the finest period of the year on the coast of Palawan, when,
land and sea breezes prevail with tolerable regnlarity, the former coming
fresh from the South and S.E. in the morning, and the latter from the North
and N.W. in the afternoon.

Towards the end of June, and throughout July, unsettled weather, gene-
rally commencing about the change of moon, may be expected. A slight
depression of the mercury, after a succession of fine weather, frequently in-
dicates the approach of strong W.S.W. squalls, which are usually accompa-
nied by dark cloudy weather and much rain, lasting for a week or ten days.
These are generally succeeded by a period of fine weather, with N.W. and
S.W. winds, which draw to the southward and eastward in the mornings.
If June or July have been unsettled, it may be expected that August gene-
rally will be fine, with moderate S.W., but more frequently westerly winds,
particularly in the afternoon. If, on the contrary, June or July has been
tolerably fine, very unsettled weather may be expected in August.

In September and October the wind generally blows strong from the
W.S.W., with dark, cloudy weather ; and oG the S.AV. end of Palawan
squalls, which veer to W.N.W. and N.W., sometimes blowing with great
violence, succeed each other rapidly, and are accompanied by rain. Between
the squalls the wind very often shifts to S.E. In November and December
the weather is variable ; N.E. and easterly winds, changing at times to S.E.,
more frequently prevail.

Among the Philippine Islands the two regular monsoons prevail, which are
met with in the China Sea. These monsoons sometimes extend as far South
as the Mariana Islands in the Pacific Ocean, and as far North as the
coast of Japan. The Philippine Islands, lying North and South, their high
lands naturally intercept the course of the wind ; and the result is that at
forty or fifty leagues from them much bad weather is encountered, which
becomes much worse as the islands are approached. The N.E. monsoon
commences about October, with fine weather, lasting till April, with winds
varying from North to N.E. If it should occasionally veer to N.W. it
blows hard. The S.W. monsoon is not observed here till between the com-
mencement and end of May, and does not become regular till June. During
this monsoon the \^eather is gloomy, cloudy, and very wet. About this
period severe storms sometimes occur, called " collas tempestados," which
are generally accompanied by thunder and rain, the wind changing about
and blowing from all points of the compass with the same force. These
collas and bad weather take place at the end of July, or middle of August,
and sometimes in October. They are not unlike the typhoons. In September
the wind loses strength, the rain is less, and the sky is fine ; but in the
morning there is a thick fog, which lasts till noon. At the change of the
monsoons bad weather is sometimes felt, as in the China Sea. During

CURRENTS AND TIDES. 25

February and March, about the end of the N.E. monsoon, on the coast of
Lu9on, the wind varies, often with a tendency to follow the course of the
alternate land and sea or solar breezes. The alternate winds are well esta-
blished in April ; and from June to October, the period of the S.W. mon-
soon, the wind brings rain, which blows on the coast at right angles.

II.— CUR EE NTS ANDTILES.

It will be manifest that if it be difficult to define exactly the direction and
seasons of the monsoons which blow over the Indian Archipelago, it will be
still more difficult to describe the currents. Ocean currents are induced, in a
great degree, by the prevalent direction of the wind, which having free scope
over both land and sea, has a much more persistent character than that of
the surface water, driven through tortuous channels, often lying transverse
to the normal direction of the wind.

Again there are anomalies arising from the tidal streams, the flood tide
from the Pacific, and that from the Indian Ocean, both being directed to the
same quarters, produces many apparent complications.

As a general rule, the true current sets to leeward, impelled by the trade
wind or monsoon prevailing at the period, and when the waters have to
pass through the narrow straits between the islands it often rushes past with
great velocity.

But then this true current is frequently overcome or accelerated by the
tida,l streams reaching it in opposite directions ; and, therefore, each strait
requires special exemplification, and this will generally be found in the de-
scription of the coasts which follow these preliminary chapters.

One general remark may be made. A large portion of the archipelago
lies between the two great tropical drifts to westward ; in other parts of
the world, as on the Guinea Coast, and in the Gulf of Panama, a counter
current is found near the equator running to eastward, between these westward
drifts. It cannot be said that such a counter current is found in the Indian
Archipelago ; but the same causes, difficult to define, which produce this
equatorial counter current, will help to make the movements of the waters
here more complicated and difficult of comprehension. North and South of
this central belt on the eastern coasts of Asia and Australia, the equatorial
streams recurve and form streams analagous to the Gulf Stream in the At-
lantic ; and this is especially the case in the stream flowing through the
Formosa Channel past the Japan Islands. This was first defined by the
Editor in his Pacific Directory fts the Japanese Current.

26 CUEEENTS AND TIDES.

The temperature of the ocean in the Archipelago is high, as might be ex-
pected ; and, from its peculiar condition, it may be looked on as the head
waters of that great circulatory system, which reaches every portion of the
ocean in its course, and gives one universal character to the waters of the
ocean. Sea water, as is well known, possesses the same characteristics in
every known part of the world, and from the surface to its bed. This
can only have arisen from the entire circulation and intermingling of the
whole mass of the waters of the ocean, which has passed over every portion
of its bed. A few brief remarks on each locality will suffice to give a more
particular notion of the movement of the waters in its vicinity.

Malacca and Singapore Steaits. — The great island of Sumatra, from its
lying directly across the line of direction of the two monsoons, causes the
currents which enter, or run out of the China Sea by the Malacca Strait, to
be much modified by tidal influences. As a broad rule, it may be stated
that the waters flow to West and N.W. during the N.E. monsoon, between
November and March, and set in the opposite direction with a lesser velo-
city during the S.W. monsoon, which blows the water into the Bay of
Bengal. In September, while the S.W. monsoon still lasts, a strong current
sets eastward around the South part of Ceylon, and thence directly for
Acheen Head in Sumatra, where it is divided, a portion running down the
West Coast of Sumatra to S.W., and the other as a weak current down the
Strait of Malacca. In October this drift is weak and uncertain, but in No-
vember, when the N.E. monsoon is in full force, the current to N.W. and
along the North Coast of Sumatra runs at the mean rate of a mile an hour.
From December to February this current still moves to leeward, and in
March and April is sometimes very strong. When the S.W. monsoon seta
in, iu May or June, the reverse current commences, and in July and August
attains considerable strength, and thus continues, with some fluctuations,
until September or October.

But all these movements of the waters are much mixed up with the tidal
streams. The flood tide enters the Strait of Malacca from the N.W., and
is met somewhere in the Strait of Singapore by the flood stream coming from
the China Sea.

In the Strait of Singapore the true current streams become still more
marked by the tides. During the construction of the Horsburg Lighthouse
at its eastern entrance, and therefore open to the influences directly coming
from the China Sea, Mr. Thompson made the following observations: — The
tidal currents set through the Middle Channel, that is, to the North of Pedra,
Branca, in a N.E. and S.W. directioa, through the South Channel, between

STRAIT OF SUNDA. 27

Pedra Branca and the Bintang shore, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction,
and through the North Channel between Romania shoal and islands, in a
N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The currents are much affected by the pre-
vailing winds ; they set strongly into the straits during the continuance of
the N.E. monsoon, and in a contrary direction during the S.W. monsoon.
This is particularly the case during neap tides. It is high water at full and
change at Pedra Branca at 10'' 35™ a.m. The flood runs into the Straits and
the ebb outwards, but the current does not generally turn till half ebb or
half flood, that is, if low water be at 6 a.m. the current will run ebb till
9 a.m., although the water be rising on the rock. At 12*" noon it would bo
high water, after which the tide would fall, but notwithstanding this the
current would run flood till 3'' p.m. before turning ; but there are frequent
exceptions to this rule, for I observed during the months of May, June, and
July, when the morning ebb tides fall strong out till three hours after the
tide began to rise on the rocks, and then continued slack water all day ;
while in the months of October and November, when the evening ebb falls
much lower than the morning one, the tidal current would set strong out all
night and continue slack inwards during the next day. At full moon, in
August, 1851, I found the perpendicular rise and fall of tide was only 2 ft.
9 in., but three days afterwards it was 6 ft. 7 in., which was the greatest
during three springs. In July the greatest rise was 7 ft. 9 in. The neap
tides only rise and fall 1 ft. 7 in.

Again he says:— The current at times is not less than 4 miles an hour,
and probably nearer 5, though this is unusual, and 2 to 4 knots may be
taken as the usual strength, though much variation was observed during
different months. Strong ebbs prevailed during the mornings of May, June,
and July, and on the evenings of October and November strong ebbs also
prevail. During the S.W. monsoon the floods do not run so strong as the
ebbs.

Strait of Sunda. — The currents in this Strait are more of the nature of
tides, although very much affected by the winds. During the S.E. monsoon
the ebb tide on the South side of the Strait frequently sets to westward at
from 1 to 2 knots, and lasting for fourteen hours, succeeded by a slack water
or weak flood for six hours. In the middle of the Strait the velocity is
greater, from 2 to 3^ miles per hour. "When the winds are light, the flood
to N.E. and the ebb to S.W. succeed each other regularly, and their rate is
about equal, but at spring tides and in the middle of the Strait they attain
a rate of 3 or 3i miles an hour. In the opposite season of the westerly mon-
soon the ebb and flood are generally regular, but during strong gales the
flood lasts longest. In February and March a strong set to the W.S.W. is
sometimes met with on the North side, reaching a velocity at times of 4 to
4 J miles an hour. In the description of the Strait in a subsequent page,
this topic will be again alluded to.

28 CURRENTS AND TIDES.

In Banka Strait and the adjacent passages there is much complication in
the movements of the waters, arising from two causes, the one is the meeting
of the flood tides from the China Sea and from the Indian Ocean, and the
other is from the peculiarity of the monsoons, which, as explained in our
Indian Ocean Directory (pages 29 — 36), are here an intermediate belt be-
tween the northerly and southerly monsoons on either side of the equator.
Occurring during the southern summer months, November to March, and
coming from the N.W. is called the middle or cross monsoon. During its
greatest strength, January to March, the current or ebb tide sets to south-
ward for fourteen to eighteen hours at a time, with a rate of 2 to 3^ knots,
and the flood from South is then scarcely perceptible. The reverse occurs
during the S.E. monsoon, the flood stream setting with great velocity to the
northward, while sometimes the ebb runs out weakly for eight or ten hours.
To the northward the N W. monsoon has more eflFect than the S.E. mon-
soon, and the reverse is the case in the opposite season. Between the mon-
soons the tidal streams are regular, but when the monsoons are blowing
strongly, a constant surface drift is found setting to leeward on the Sumatra
shore.

Gulf or Siam. — The following is by Lieutenant Richards, who surveyed
the Gulf :—

The currents in the Gulf of Siam, near the middle, are generally weak and
variable, but near the land, in the strength of the monsoons, strong sets may
be expected. In the S.W. monsoon a strong northerly current was found,
from Lem Chong P'ra to Sam-roi-yot Point. In the N.E. monsoon there is
frequently a strong set across the head of the Gulf to the westward.

In the neighbourhood of the Redang Islands and Pulo Obi, the strong
currents prevalent in the China Sea may be expected. The China Sea cur-
rent does not appear to enter the Gulf further than a few miles, but is said
to set across its mouth in both monsoons.

The flood tide from the China Sea appears to meet the western shore of the
Gulf, and divides somewhere near Cape Patani ; for at the Redang Islands
the flood sets to the southward, and at Singora and Koh Krah it was found
setting to the northward.

CHINA SEA in the South-west Monsoon. — The currents in the China
Sea are very changeable, their direction and velocity depending much upon
local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they generally begin
to set to the northward, in the southern and middle parts of the sea, and
continue to run in a north-easterly direction until September, while the
S.W. monsoon is strong; but they are not constant in this monsoon, for at
times, when the wind is moderate or light, they are liable to change and set
in various directions. After the strength of the monsoon has abated, there
is often little or no current in the open sea, running to the north-eastward ;
but sometimes its direction is to the southward.

CHINA SEA. 29

Along the coast of Cochin China, from Pulo Obi to Cape Pandaran, the
current sets mostly to the E.N.E., parallel to the shore, from April to the
middle of October; and during the same period its direction is generally to
the northward along the East coast of the Malay peninsula, from the entrance
of Singapore Strait to the Gulf of Siam. To the northward of Cape Padaran
there is but little current in the S.W. monsoon, near the Cochin China coast ;
for, from thence to the Gulf of Tong King, a small drain is sometimes found
setting northward, at other times southward. When a gale happens to blow
out of the latter gulf from the N. W. and westward, the current at the same
time sets generally to the S.W. or southward, in the vicinity of the Paracel
islands and reefs, or where these gales are experienced ; and this current
running obliquely, or contrary to the wind, a turbulent and high sea is
thereby produced.

On the Southern Coast of China the current is much governed by the wind ;
when strong S.W. winds prevail, it runs along shore to the eastward, but
seldom strong. Near and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there is
generally a westerly current, occasioned by the freshes from Canton River,
which set in that direction ; frequently sweeping along the islands from
Macao to St. John between W.S.W. and W.N.W., about 1 or 2 knots per
hour. This westerly current is, however, not always constant in the S.W.
monsoon, for it slacks at times ; then a weak tide may sometimes be expe-
rienced running eastward.

On the coasts of Luzon and Palawan, the current generally sets northward
in the SW. monsoon, but frequently there is no current, and near these
coasts it seldom runs strong. Near the Bashi Islands it sometimes sets
eastward when strong westerly winds prevail ; but generally strong to the
northward, or between N.N.W. and N.E.

In the North-east Monsoon. — The current in the China Sea during the
N.E. monsoon generally runs south-westward, with a velocity depending on
the strength of the wind. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or
during moderate and light breezes, there is often little or no current.

In the western parts of the sea, along the coasts of Cochin China and the
Malay Peninsula, the current generally begins to run to the southward about
the middle of October (sometimes sooner on the former coast), and continues
until April. During the month of March its direction is constantly to the
southward about Pulo Aor, with light easterly winds and calms at times.
On the coast of Cochin China, and adjacent to Hainan Island, a current
varying from South to S.W., commences sometimes about the middle of
September; near the land, from lat. 15° N. to 11° or 11^° N., it increases in
strength ; but its rate decreases in proportion as it flows southward. During
the prevalence of the N.E. monsoon, from about lat. 14° N. to Cape Padaran,
the current near the coast frequently runs 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles
to the southward in 24 hours ; the rate, however, is variable, and it is only

30 CUERENTS AND TIDES.

in the limits above mentioned that it is occasionally so strongs, for its strength
abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the S.W., towards
the entrance of the Gulf of Siam.

On the Southern Coast of China the current, during the N.E. monsoon,
runs almost constantly to the W.S.W., nearly parallel to the land ; and
sometimes with inconceivable rapidity, when a typhoon or a storm happens.
At the distance of 70 or 80 miles from the coast, it seldom runs so strong
as near it ; and in 30 or 40 fathoms soundings there is much less current
than in shoal water, near the shore and amongst the islands. The westerly
current sometimes slacks, and, contiguous to the land, is succeeded by a
kind of tide.

Between Formosa and the China coast the current runs to the southward
during the N.E. monsoon. When strong N.E. winds prevail, its direction
is generally to the S.W. or southward, between the South end of Formosa
and the North end of Luzon ; but here, in light variable winds, it often
sets to the northward. On the West coast of Luzon the current is change-
able, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times northward.
On the coast of Palawan it is also mutable, governed by the prevailing
•winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless impelled by severe
gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Boteltobago Island, it frequently
runs strong to the northward and north-eastward, so early as the 1st of
March ; and although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction
during the S.W. monsoon ; and in the opposite direction during the N.E.
monsoon. — (China Sea Directory. J

EASTERN PASSAGES.— The currents in the passages East of Java are
very various, and, like the monsoons, do not seem to be reducible to any
fixed laws, a feature doubtless due to their geographic relations, lying as
they do between the wind systems of the northern and southern hemispheres.
But as their action is frequently of importance in endeavouring to make a
passage against an adverse wind, they require much attention. The follow-
ing imperfect notes, derived frequently from the Dutch, are given as a guide
to their general character.

South Coast of Java. — The monsoons here are liable to great deviations,
although they frequently shift about the middle of April and November.
This is owing in some degree to the mountainous character of the island ;
and there are some remarkable reverse currents experienced when within a
degree or two of the coast. The Dutch officers, Lieutenants Rietveld,
Eschauzier, &c., say that during the easterly monsoon, April to November,
a constant easterly current is encountered, or running against the monsoon at
times so strong as to ripple, but on an average of 10 to 12 miles per day.
The drift is frequently to S.E. two-thirds of a mile an hour. Captain M. H.
Jansen has stated that in the eastern monsoon the current sets to the west-
ward from full to change of the moon, and either to the eastward from the

BALI STEAIT— NEW GUINEA. 31

change, or that there was no current. It is also certain that there is a con-
siderable set to the westward in this monsoon, especially near the shore.
In the westerly monsoon the current is sometimes to the S.S.E. and South,
decreasing' in force to between 11° and 15°, and then ceases, and a strong
westerly current is encountered increasing in velocity as the Strait of Sunda
is approached, amounting at times to 42 miles per day.

Bali Strait. — The currents or tides run through the Narrows of Bali
Strait with great velocity, some say 6 knots, and cause great ripplings,
eddies, and a boisterous sea, particularly near the Bali shore during the
eastern monsoon, when the S.S.W. winds blow so strongly that it is often
impossible to manoeuvre a ship. The flood runs to the northward and the ebb
to the southward, and at full and change of the moon it is high water there
between 12 and 1 o'clock. About quadrature of the moon, and particularly
near the last quarter, the tides are very irregular ; they change first on the
Java side of the strait, and only If or 2 hours later on the Bali shore.
During the eastern monsoon the flood is often found only near the Java
shore, and even there not to the northward of Batu Dodol, but diu-ing the
western monsoon the northerly currents prevail. A tide lasts often for 7 or
8 hours.

TiMOE, Etc. — The currents are strong, with great ripplings, in the Ombay
passage, and the Straits to the northward of Timor, generally setting to the
N.E. during the western monsoon, and during the opposite to the south-
westward ; but in some places, close in-shore, a kind of weak tide has been
experienced. Near the entrance of the Straits of Alloo and Pantar the
current takes a northerly direction during the eastern monsoon, but during
the western monsoon it sets out S.S.W. The strong current in the Ombay
Passage seems to cause a strong easterly current along the North coast of
Ombay during the eastern monsoon.

In June the S. W. or westerly currents in the Ombay Passage seem to have
attained their greatest strength, amounting to 72 or 82 miles in twenty-four
hours.

Near the end of the eastern monsoon (in August and September) strong
easterly currents take place in the Ombay Passage, though in October they
often run with great velocity to the south-westward.

Ships from Java or Macassar, bound to Amboina, during the eastern
monsoon, work along the North coasts of Sombawa, Flores, &c., till they
have reached the N.W. or North point of Wetter ; or further to the east-
ward, if bound to Banda ; and the voyage is often much accelerated by
favourable currents.

New Guinea, Etc. — During the easterly monsoon, the current sets to the
N.W. along the western coast of New Guinea and between the Ki and Arru
Islands, and thence eastward along the South coast of Ceram, at the rate of
a mile or a mile and a half an hour, according to the strength of the wind

32 TIDES.

the velocity being greatest along the coast of New Guinea. At this period
an easterly current prevails on the North side of the islands, extending from
Timor to Timor-Laut, so that a moderately fast vessel would experience no
di£B.culty there in beating up against that monsoon. In the westetrly mon-
soon the current in these seas usually sets with the wind, but its velocity is
not so great as during the other season.

Of the currents on the North coast of New Guinea we have buc few par-
ticulars, and these chiefly from D'Urville, who sailed along it in August,
1827, where he found strong westerly and N.W. currents of more than a
mile an hour. It is probable that this westerly drift is constant, and that,
arriving at the Moluccas and Philippine Islands, it is diverted more to the
northward, and finally assumes the N.E. direction along the coast of China,
which has been previously adverted to.

1 1 1.— T IDES.

But little can be said here to give a general view of the tides in the Indian
Archipelago. Each particular locality and strait would require a special
exemplification, which as far as we have the means, is given in the local
descriptions in a subsequent part of the work.

The flood tidal wave from the Indian Ocean, proceeding in a N.E. direc-
tion, is mainly obstructed b.y the line of islands which it encounters in its
whole breadth. It passes through the various channels with considerable
rapidity when favoured by the monsoon, or is almost annihilated by the
contrary season. In the former case it passes on till it meets that which
comes from the Pacific and China Sea, thus neutralizing each other, and
occasioning much complication, and the phenomena of double tides. In the
difl'erent seasons the tides from this cause are in some cases quite reversed,
the high water hour corresponding in one case with the low water, period of
the other.

Free from the entanglements of the Archipelago, the great tidal wave pur-
sues a normal course in the Pacific, and, according to the China Pilot, it strikes
upon the eastern coast of China, from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse kiang,
nearly at the same period ; it being high water on fuU and change days in
the neighbourhood of the Lema Islands, at about 8^ 30", and at the outer
islands of the Chusan Archipelago it is an hour later. The rise and fall,
however, increases considerably to the northward ; probably owing to the
obstruction which the wave receives from the Philippine Islands ; and in
some instances the diurnal inequality is great. By the Tide Table it will
be perceived that to the eastward of HoDg Kong, and as far as Breaker

TIDE TABLE.

point, the tideg are irregular and weak, the current occasioned by the mon-
soon overcoming them.

After passing Breaker Point, the coast trends more northerly, and the
flood stream will be found useful to vessels bound to the northward. The
rise and fall increases, passing from 7 ft. at Namoa Island to 12 ft. at Tong-
sang, and 20 ft. at Amoy. Between Amoy and the Eiver Min, the rise of
the tide varies from 16 to 18 ft. at springs, and the flood enters on the North.
as well as on the South side of Hai-tan Strait.

To the northward of the Min, the flood sets more determinately to the
North ; it seldom, however (unless ofi" headlands or in narrow channels),
overcomes the current caused by the monsoon, but has the effect of slacken-
ing it.

Throughout the Chusan Archipelago and the estuaries to the North,
great care and attention to the tides is necessary. Particular instructions
for this purpose will be found in the body of the work ; and it only remains
here to caution the navigator that, as his vessel approaches the coast to the
northward at Chusan, the tides increase in rapidity, and unless precaution is
taken, she will be set among the small islets of this rugged archipelago.

The following Tide Table, extracted faom that published by the Admi-
ralty, and drawn up by Commander Burdwood, E.N., will give the times of
high water and the ranges of the tides.

TIDE TABLE.

Place.

Malacca Strait, Malay
Coast.

Junkseylon Island (E
side)

Pulo Tubah

Qneda

Penang (Georgetown)

North Sands

Light vessel (One Fa-
thom Bank)

Arroa

Cape flacbada

Sambilangs

Binding River

Malacca Road

Hi?h
Water,
Full and
Change.

10
noon
noon
noon

5 30

6
5 30

2 30

7 30

Sps.

Nps.

ft.

5i
9
15

lOi

Place.

Off i^Iount Formoza , .

Tanjong Bolus

Singapore, New Har-
bour *

Rhio Strait

Malacca Strait, Sumatra
Coast.

Diamond Point ......

Bala wan River

flattie Point

Siak River (entrance)
„ off the town ....

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps. Nps.

8 30

9 30

9 45
9 50

noon
3
3
9

ft.
11
lOi

7 10
7 10

ft.

H
6-7

* The low water at Singapore is affected by a large diurnal inequality, amounting at
times to 6 feet.

TIDE TABLE.

Place.

Hiffh l

Water,

Full and

Change. Sps.

Nps

Place.

*Hifrh
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps. Nps.

Sumatra^ N.E. Coast.

Pulo Aor

St. Barbe

Badas Island,

Bay*

Batoo Barra . .
Dheli River . .

Linsa

Sumatra, West Coast.

Bencoolen

Sillebar Rivpp (Bar) . .
Mensular Island (S.E.

end)

Padanfj Road

Tappanoely Harbour .

Acheen Head

Diamond Point

Durian Strait.

Sabon Island
Deep Point . .
Red Island . .

Banka Strait.

ToboeAli Point.

Laboh Point . .
Lucipara Pass
Nangka Island
Kalian Point . .
Bersiap Point. .
Cape Oelar , . . .

Gaspar Strait. §

Pulo Memlanao
Pulo Leat

Java Sea.

Ciimon Islands ....
Sourabaya Strait (Zee

Bank)

Strait,

Jansen Channel. .
Banjoewangie , . . ,
Segoro Wedie Bay

h. m.

2 50

6
6

6 10

8 45

noon

5
5

8 30t

10 0+

11 Of
irr.

8
6 30
6 30

2 30
2 30

jrr.

irr.
1

ft.

5
6

12
7-10

10
10
lOi

10-10

10
10
9#
12
12
12

6
4-6

8-10

Patytan Bay

Tylatiap Harbour (S.

Coast)

Tytando Inlet

Wynkoops Bay (S.W.

Coast) . .

Zand Bay

Bantam

Batavia

Knlang Bayang Harb.
Krakatoa

Baly Strait

Badong Bay (S. Coast)

Tebunkos Road (North

Coast)

Lombock, West Coast.

Ampanam Bay
Peejow Bay . .

Sumbawa.

Ragged Island .

Sapie Bay

Britannia Bay .
Bima Bay

Sumba or Sandelhout,
North Coast.

Nangamessie Harbour
Palmedo Road

Timor.

Koepang .
Dilhi ...

Flora Sea.

Adenara, Floras
Alligator B.iy,

Magassak

h. m. ft,

8 45

6 30

30
11

8 10

noon

11 30

11
1

4 40

6
10-12

3
10
11-12
6

* From observations made in the month of September by W. Stanton, Commanding
H.M. Surveying brig Saracen.
+ In S.E. monsoon.
J In N.W. monsoon.
§ Only one high water in 24 hours, and very irregular.

TIDE TABLE,

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps. Nps.

Moluccas.

Batchian, Gilolo ....

Sanguir Island

Geby, Fohou Island. .
Manganitoe Bay ....

Limbe Strait

Stnaana Bay

Koplwatte Bay

Wahaay and Hatiling

Bays

Bouro, Cajili Bay ....

Amboina

S:tparooa Island ....
Cambing or

Island . . . ,
Banda, Banda Islands
Dampier Strait

Borneo, China Sea.

St. Pierre, Island ....

Rendezvous or Kum-
pal Island

Tanjong Api

Sarawak hiver (Mora-
tabas entrance) * . .
„ Santubong . .
„ Sarawak Junc-
tion

„ „ City

Burong Island

Rajang River

Bruit River

Bintula River

Bruni River

Labuaii Island, Victo-
ria Harbour

Mungalum Island, . . .

Malludu Bay

Balambansran Island,
South Harbour ....

Uosang

Ragged Point

Pamaruug Islands , . . ,

Balabac Island.

Dalawan Bay

Calandorang

North Balabac Strait .

Palawan, West Coast.

Eran Bay

a. m.
1

1 32

33 irr.

noon
noon

ft.

6
6
5

5
9

3-4

7
6

6
14
11

5 15-18
5 20 15-18

4 45

4 45
3

5 45
11

9 45
11
10 30

10
8

11
11
10 50

10 10

/
13
11

6
12

6
5

6-8

6-8?

3^
7
6-7

Place,

ft.

High
Water,
Full and
Change. Sps

Rise.

Taj'-bay-oo-bay ....

Ooloogan Bay

Mayday Bay

Port Barton? (Bubon

Point)

Pancol

Bacuit Bay

Cavern Island

Millman Island

Observatory Island . .

Palawan, East Coast.

Ursula Island

Port Royalist

Casuariiia Point

Barren Island

Calandasan Islands,

Bird Isl .nd

TaJ-Tai Bay

Busuan^a

Philippine Islands.

Port Zebu

Port Buluagan, O'sta

Ana

Port Iloilo

Port San Jacinto, Ticao

Island

Paluan Bay (Mindoro)
Manila (Luzon) ....

Port Sual „

Port Laguimanoc „
Alabat Harlionr ,,
Busainga (Burias Id.)
Sarangani Point, Min-
danao

Scarborough Shoal . .

Sulu Sea.

Ubian Island (Kpena-
poussan Group) f . .

Cagayan Sulu t

Doc-can

Pearl Bank

Sibutu

Bongala

Tanj Unsang

Dalrymple Harbour,
Sulu Island .

h, m.

ft.

10 15

9 30

9 55

10 55

9 40

9 30

10 27

11 0?

6i?

9 30

noon

6 30

10 40

3i-6

1 30

6 15

6 10

6 5

6 50

6 40

7 50

* At Sarawak River the highest tides occur at the change of the monsoons, viz.. May and
November. In the N.E. monsoon the higher tides occur at the new moon, and those of
the day are higher and more regular than those of the night ; while during the S.W. mon-
soon the contrary takes place, and the higher tides are then at full moon.

t In the N.E. monsoon.

TIDE TABLE.

Place.

HiRh
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps. Nps.

Place.

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Rise.

Sps. Nps,

Babuyan Islands.

Port Pio Quinto, Ca-
migiiin Island . . . .

Port Musa, Fuga oi
New Babuyan . . . .

Pratas Shoal

Batanes, Bashee Ids.
Formosa,

Takau Harliour. . .
Port Kok-si-kon ,
Wanckan Bank.s ,

Tdngsiiiu

Tam-Sui Harbour.
Kelung Harbour ,
Sau-o Bay

Meiaco Sima Group
Port Haddington . . .

Loo Choo Islands,

Nafa Kianfif

Port Uoriiinar

Oho Sima, Vincennes

Bav

„ "Wild Wave Bay

China Sea, West Coast
{Malay Peninsula)

Eomania Point
Sidili Eiver . .
Blair Harbour

Gvlf of Siam.

Tringano River.. .,
Menam Eiv., Paknara
Bangkok River ....

Cape Liant

Chentabnn liiver ,

Pulo Panjang- ,

Rocky Island ,

Cochin China.

Pulo Condore*
MithoRod ..
Cape St. James
Saigon City ..

b. m.

4 0?

10 30
5 60

6 45

8
6 7
Irr.

5 7

7
4

ft.

8-10

7-10

7MT

64
11

ft.

81-9

Nhatrang Bay
Hon-cohe Bay
Touron Bay . ,

China Sea, S.S. Coast.
Bay, Hainan

Gaalon

Island
Yu-lin-kan Bay ....
Qnan-rhow-wan ....
Tien -pak Harbour ..

Hui-ling-san

Namoa Hnrbour ....
Boddnm Cove, Ladrone

Islands

Canton River (entr.) . .
Broadway River (ent.)
Typa Anchorage ....

Macao

Cumsingmun Harbour,

Canton River

Urm stone Bay

.Junk Fleet entrance,

Canton River

Tnilung Channel „
Wang-nnni Channel..
,1 unci ion Channel ....
Laiikeetlsland, Canton

River

Lintin Island ,,

Fan-si-ak Channel ,,
Chuen-pee Point „

! March
April
May &
June
Kuper Island, ( March
oflf Canton < May &
City (.June

Sham-shui, Si"

KiangorW. |

}Feh.

River
Shao-king
Wu-chu „J
Hong Kong Road
Ninepin Group . .
Tide Cove, Mirs Bay
Tooni-ang Island, Bias

Bay
Tsang-chow Id., Bias

Bay ,

Hong-hai Bay ,

Kin-siang Point, Hie

chechin Bay

Chino Bay

Haimun Ray

h. m.

8 30
11 30

ft.
6
5

9 5

4-0

2^
9-10

noon
8 30
10

9 40

11
10
10

7
H

6
10 30

11 50

1 50
11 50

11 20

noon
1

noon
1 40
1 15

7-8

2 40

1 40

10 15
10
10

5-6
3

8 30
10

7
7
9

6-7
6-7

* l-'rom a French Survey, 1862.

t At Whampoa Docks — In March, the day and night tides rise to the same level. From
April to October, the day tides are the higher, and from November to February the lower
In May and June the level of spring tides ib 4 feet and the

March

neaps 2 feet higher than in

TIDE TABLE.

Place.

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Spa. Nps.

Place.

Hiifh
M'ater,
Full and
Change.

Rise.

Sps. Nps.

Cape of Good Hope . .

Cupchi Point

Swatow (Double Id.) . .
Clipper Eoad, Namoa

Island

Chauan Bay

Tongsang Harbour . ,
Chimney Island, Rees

Pass ,

M ikung Harbour (Pes

cadores) ,

China, East Coast.

Amoy, Inner Harbour
„ Chiang Chin,
West River

Hu-i-tau Bay

Chimmo Bay

Chinchu Harbour ....

Meichen Sound

Haitan Strait

White Dog Islands . .

Min River, Temple Pt.
,, Losing Id.

Chang-chi Island ....

Spider Island

Lishan Bay

Namquan Harbour . .

Namki Islands

Pih-ki-.-)han Islands . .

Fong-whang Group,
Bullock Harbour ..

Wan-ehu River (entr.)
City . .

Chin-ki Island

Tai-chow Islands .,. . .

St. George Island, San-
moon Bay ,

Kweshan Islands . . .

Nimrod Sound

Vernon Channel, Cbu
san Archipelago

Ting hae Harbour .

Poo-too I^land

Lansew Bav

Volcano Islands

East Saddle I^land .

Yung River, Chinhae
,. Ninsj-po-fu

Hang-chu Bay, Seshan

Islands

,, Fog Islands

11 30

10 SO

noon

3 40

10 20

noon

10 45

noon

9 30

10 15

8 30

9
9 30
9 20
9

10 20
9 30

10 30

9 40

11
8 15

11 30
11
11 20

11 45
11 45

ft.

6
6-7

7
12^
12

18.

16
16
17
17
18-22
18
19
17
17
17
16
17
17
17

15i

\bh

15
14
20

14
12
12
13
15
14
12i

14i

Hi
14|

Hang-chu Bay, Chapu
Road

„ (off Can-pu)

Gutzlaff Island

Yang-tse Kiang (light

ship at entrance) . .
,, entrance to

Wusnng River ....

*Shanghai

tLangshan Crossing. .

Kiu-kiang

Hankau

Ydlow Sea.

Wang-kia-tai Bay ....
Wei-hai or Kyau-chau

Bay

Ching-tau Bay

Lo-shan-kau

Tau-tsui Head

Tsing-hai Bay

Staunton Island

Wang-kia Bay

Shihtau Bay

Sang-tau Bay

Aylen Bay

Litau Bay

Shantung Promontory
Wei-hai-wei Harbour
Lung-mun Harbour..

Chitu

Hope Sound (Mi-au-

tau Group)

Miau-tau (Depot Bay)
Ta-tsing ho or Yellow

River

Chi-Ho .... ....

Peiho or Peking River

(entrance) j

Tien-tsin, Peiho Riv.

Peh tang ho

Sha-lui-tien Banks (W.

part)

Liau-tung, Chingho. .

Lau-mu ho

Tai-cho ho

Yang ho

Ning-hai

Sand Point, Gulf of

Liau-tung

N.W. Head of Gulf of

Liau-tung

Liau Ho (Bar)

h; m.
noon

11 30

noon

1 30
1 40

2 30

4
9 30

10
10 34

ft.
25
32
15

12-15
10
12
24
44

10 24

10 35

4 10

10|

3 30

2 50

1 20

1 30

noon

4 50

6 30

11^

* From tidal observations made at Shanghai by the engineer to the Customs for the last
six months of 1872, the night tides in July and in the following three months average con-
siderably higher than the day ones. The reverse occurs in the months of November and
December. — The North China Herald.

t At the Langshan Crossing the tide rises for 3 hours only, and falls for 9 hours. —
H.M.S. Acttpon, 1861.

t Time and rise much affected bv winds.

TIDE TABLE.

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps. Xps.

Liau Ho (Yin-koa) . .
Vansittrtrts Saddle ....

Hulu Shan Bay

Society Bay, Sulivan

Bay

Port Adams, Mary Id.

Pigeon Bay

Ta-lien-whan Bay . .

Encounter Rock

Hniyun-tau, Thornton

Haven

Chang-zu-do Island . .
Kwang-lo

Korea.

Pin?- Yang Inlet ....

Chodo Island

Ta-Tong River

Salee River, Kapkot-i

,, Buisee Id.

Seoul River, Poteu-

mai*

„ Kampa-oui

„ Sfcukkol . .

„ Seoul ...
Marjoribanks Harbour

Basil Bay

Ko-kon-tau Group . .

Kuper Harbour

Crichton Harbour. . . .

Tracy Island

Hooper Island

Port Hamilton

Tsu-sima Sound ....
Tsau-liang-hai or Cho-

san Harbour

Yung-hing Bay

Port Lazaref, Brough-

ton Bay

Expedition Biiy

Novogrod Bay

Japan.

Sagitsu-no-ura Harb.
Yama Gawa Harbour,

Kigoaima Gulf ....

Nagasaki Bay

Taske

Oosuka

Tama-no-ura Harbour,

Goto Island

Iki

Yobuko

Simonoseki

Whitsed Bay

Mikuni Roads

h. m.

ft.

4 20

2 30

11 4.5

10 47

10|

10 44

9 30

9 65

7 45

6 1^0

6 30

6 40

5 20

36-^

7 20

7 50

8 45

9 30

3 80

4 15

2 25

9 28

9 50

8 58

9 10

8 30

7 45

5 20

2 30

7 15

9 44

9 16

8 40

6-8

9 16

8 30

8-3

ft.

111

16-2/

7h
5"
5

4-6

64
6

Tsuruga

Sado (Yebisu)

Tsu^ar Strait

La Perouse Strait ....
Yezo Id., Notske Bay

,, Nemorro An-
chorage

„ Akishi Bay . .

„ Endermo H.

Oterranai

Malo Yama

„ Hakodadi Harb.
Yamada Harbour ....

YoKo-HAMA, Yedo B.f
Yokoska Harbour

Uraga

Tatiyama Bay

Fatsizio

Port Simoda

Heda Bay

Eriora Bay

Simidsu

Matoja Harliour ....

Hamagema-ura

Owasi (Rodney Bay) . .

Urakami

Oosima

Tanabe, Kii Channel
Yura-no-uchi ........

Osaki

Hacbken River

Kata Channel

Sus iki and Nomi Har-
bours

Uwajima

Inland Sea.

Hiogo and Kobe Bays
Oosaka River (entr.) . .

„ City

Yura Harbour

Naruto (Fukura) ....

Benten Sima

Nisi Siuia

Sakoshi Bay

Ananga

Maiko Fort

Hid-ide

Awasima Island ....

Siyako Island

Yugisima

Miwara

Hangata

Tomo

Hime Sima Road ....

High
Water,
Full and
Change.

Sps.

h. m.

ft.

1 30

10 30

4 50

4 30

4 35

variaVile

variable

4 30

5 15

5 55

5 50

3-5

7 30

6 50

6 15

7 30

6 1

6 50

6 1

5i|

5 55

6 4

noon

8-9

7 15

7 30

8 17

6 5

6 14

11 20

10 15

19 10

S.I

°4

11 27

2-4

6 27

11 25

2-4

lOi

11 25

lUj

10 37

10 36

11 0?

8 45

* in the Rivor Seoul, spring tides rise from 16| feet at the entrance, to 6^ feet at Seoul,
t With southerly winds the tide rises about 2 fuot higher.

( 39 )

I v.— T EMPERATURE.

liemarks on the Temperatures of the China, Sulu, Celebes, and Banda Seas, hy
Staff- Commander T. H. Tizard.*

The temperatures obtained in the seas partially enclosed by the Indian
Archipelago, prove that they have, each of them, deep basins cut off from
the general oceanic circulation by ridges connecting the islands which sur-
round them ; for although in each sea soundings of over 2,000 fathoms were
obtained, in no case did the temperature decrease in a regular curve from
the surface to the bottom, as is usual in the open ocean ; in every case, after
attaining a certain depth, the temperature below that depth remained the
same : thus, in the Banda and China Seas the temperature remained the
same from 900 fathoms to the bottom, in the Celebes Sea from 700 fathoms
to the bottom, and in the Sulu Sea from 400 fathoms to the bottom.

In the China Sea three temperature soundings have been obtained, one by
Commander Chimmo in H.M.S. Nassau, in lat. 12° 53' N., long. 110° 31' E.,
the depth being 1,546 fathoms; and two in the Challenger, one of which is
in lat 17° 51' N., long. 117° 14' E., the depth being 2,150 fathoms, and the
other in lat. 16° 42' N., long. 119° 22' E., the depth being 1,050 fathoms. In
these three soundings the minimum temperature, which varied from 36°. 1 to
37°, was found at a depth ranging between 600 and 1,050 fathoms.

In the Sulu Sea three temperature soundings have been obtained, one in
lat. 8° 5' N., long. 119° 45' E. of the depth of 1,778 fathoms, by Commander
Chimmo; one of 2,550 fathoms in lat. 8° 32' N., long. 121° 55' E. ; and one
of 2,225 fathoms in lat. 8° 0' N., long. 121° 42' E. The latter soundings
were obtained by the Challenger in October 1874 and in January 1875.

In each of these three soundings the minimum temperature of 50°.5 was
reached at the depth of 400 fathoms. From that depth to the bottom the
temperature remained unchanged.

In the Celebes Sea three temperature soundings were obtained in the
Challenger, one in lat. 2° 55' N., long. 124' 53' E., in October 1874, the depth
being 2,150 fathoms; a second in lat. 5° 44' N., long. 123° 34' E., also in
October 1874, the depth being 2,600 fathoms ; and the third in lat, 5° 47' N.,
long. 124° 1' E., in February 1875, the depth being 2,050 fathoms. In each
of these three soundings the minimum temperature of 38°.5 was reached, at
a depth of from 700 to 800 fathoms, from which depth to the bottom the
water remained unchanged.

In the Banda Sea three temperature soundings were obtained in September
1874, one in lat. 5° 41' S., long. 134° 4' E., the depth being 800 fathoms; a
second in lat. 5° 26' S., long. 133° 19' E., depth 580 fathoms ; and the third
in lat. 5° 24' S., long. 130° 37' E., depth 2,800 fathoms.

* Extracted from the " Geographical Magazine " for March 1876.

40 ' TEMPERATURE.

In the last sounding, 2,800 fathoms, the minimum temperature of ST'.S
was reached at the depth of 900 fathoms ; from thence to the bottom no
alteration in the temperature of the water was detected.

In the Molucca Passage, which connects the Banda Sea with the Pacific
Ocean, one temperature sounding of 1,200 fathoms was obtained in lat.
0° 41' N., long. 126° 37' E., in October 1874, and the temperature was found
to decrease regularly from the surface to the bottom, the minimum tempera-
ture at the bottom being 35°.2.

Two soundings and temperatures were also obtained in January 1875 in
the waters of the Philippine Islands, which separates the water of the Sulu
Sea from that of the Pacific Ocean. One of these soundings (700 fathoms) is
in lat. 12° 21' N., long. 122° 15' E., in the basin formed by the islands of
Panay, Tablas, Eomblon, Sibuyan, and Masbate ; and the other (375 fa-
thoms) in lat. 9° 26' N., long. 123" 45' E., South of Bohol Island, in the
channel leading from Suriago Strait to the Sulu Sea. In the first sounding
the minimum temperature of 51°. 5 was reached at the depth of 220 fathoms ;
and in the second, the minimum temperature of 54° was reached at the depth
of 230 fathoms.

A temperature sounding of 2,550 fathoms was obtained, in February 1875,
in lat. 4° 19' N., long. 130° 15' E., in that part of the Pacific Ocean adjacent
to the Celebes Sea and Molucca Passage. Here a minimum temperature of
34°. 6 was reached at 1,300 fathoms.

An examination of the chart of these regions will show that the deep ba-
sins of the China and Celebes Seas are alone in communication with the
Pacific Ocean, and that consequently their temperature must be greatly de-
pendent on the temperature of that part of the Pacific immediately adjacent
to their openings into that ocean, for although both seas are in communica-
tion indirectly with the Indian Ocean, they are cut off from the deep basin
of that ocean by a large tract of shallow water, which, in the China Sea, ex-
ceeds a breadth of 600 miles, and in the Celebes Sea is apparently about
half the length of the Macassar Strait,

The Sulu Sea receives its waters from the China and Celebes Seas and
Pacific Ocean ; its temperature depends, therefore, to a great extent on the
temperatures of those seas.

The isotherm of 80° is found at a depth of 20 fathoms in the Sulu Sea;
at 40 fathoms in the Celebes Sea ; and at 22 fathoms in the Banda Sea. In
winter the China Sea has a large range of surface temperature from 64° at
Hong Kong to 84° at Singapore, while the surface temperature of the other
three seas varies only slightly all the year round. The specific gravity of
the water in the Celebes, Sulu, and Banda Seas, was found to be less than
in the Pacific Ocean : this may be accounted for by the excess of rainfall
over evaporation in the area occupied by them.

( 41 )

v.— MAGNETIC VAEIATION.

In the older works which described the navigation of this Archipelago,
the important element of the compass variation was disregarded, because the
magnetic meridians so nearly coincide with the geographic meridians, that
they are in most parts practically the same.

The isogonic lines, as shown on the illustrative chart, have a great pecu-
liarity in the eastern seas. A line of no variation passes across the Coast of
China and down through the Philippine Islands, while another, traversing
the Bay of Bengal, passes southward of, and parallel to, the Island of Java.
Between these lines the amount of easterly variation does not exceed 2° in
the western, and 4° in the eastern parts of the area. The chart will best ex-
plain this.

But there are other considerations respecting the compass, apart from the
amount of its deviation from the true meridian. This is the amount of the
different terrestrial and local magnetic forces which act on the compass
needle. The lines of equal dip will give one of these elements, but the
works specially devoted to the subject will show how important it is that
the commander should be aware of the effects of those varying magnetic
changes he will have to pass through in his long voyage to the field of the
present work.

The epoch assumed in the chart is 1878, but there has been no appreciable
change in the amount shown since magnetic observations have been con-
ducted with accuracy, so that, for the present at least, it may be taken as
correct for a long period, sufficiently so to draw attention to any unsuspected
change in the magnetism of the ship, should the compass show a different
amount to that given on the chart.

I. A.

CHAPTER 11.

PASSAGES.

One general principle may be laid down for ships traversing the Indian Ar-
chipehigo, and that is that during the S.W. monsoon, April to September,
ships approaching China must go by the channels westward of Borneo, and
in the opposite season they will take one of the passages to the eastward of
Sunda and of Borneo ; the return voyage being also reversed in these par-
ticulars.

Therefore the passages through the Archipelago, which lie westward of
the great island of Borneo, are termed generally the Western Passages, being
the Straits of Sunda and Malacca; and those which pass eastward of Java
and Borneo are called the Eastern Passages. To these may be added what
was termed the Great Eastern Passage, or that to the southward and eastward
of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, and which was first followed by Capt.
Butler, in the Walpole, in the northern monsoon of 1794. Of this route
Captain Maury says — This now is never or very seldom used, and should
never be attempted except tor very special reasons.

An exception may be made to this absolute conclusion in favour of clipper
or well handled ships, which sometimes have successfully attempted to beat
up the China Sea against the N.E. monsoon. Of this more will be said here-
after.

The Strait of Sunda is then the great portal of the Archipelago and China
Sea, and is used in all seasons for the ports South of China, and frequently
in all seasons as an entrance to the Eastern Passages. In the remarks as to
the most advisable routes, which will follow, the passages from the Atlantic
through the Strait of Sunda will be first considered.

1.— THE ATLANTIC TO THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

In the volume on the navigation of the Indian Ocean, to which this is a
continuation, full descriptions of the winds and currents of that ocean are
given, so that by reference to that work an insight will be gained into those
influences which affect a vessel's course in crossing it. On pages 158, 159, of
that work, too, some brief remarks on the best track for approaching the

PASSAGES. 43

Strait of Snncla, or the passages eastward of it, are given : but as this topic
has more especial reference to the scope of this book, some further observa-
tions will be given.

Notwithstanding all the long discussions which have ensued since the vast
extension of Oriental commerce, and the consequent accumulation of expe-
rience, it is still a disputed point as to which is the best parallel for crossing
the Indian ocean in sailing eastward round the Cape of Good Hope. On
the one hand it is contended that by not going too far southward, better
weather, and as much advantage otherwise, is gained. On the other hand,
it is said that by keeping more approximatively to the great circle course,
that is in higher latitudes, the " brave West winds " are more constant and
of greater force, and that the distance to be sailed over is proportionately
shortened. The following will illustrate this. The first remarks are
taken from the Admiralty Sailing Directions, advocating a comparatively
low parallel.

On leaving the cape, steer boldly to the southward, so as to run down the
easting in lat. 39° or 40° S., where the wind blows almost constantly from
some western point, and seldom with more strength than will admit of carry-
ing sail ; whereas in a higher latitude the weather is frequently boisterous
and stormy, with sudden changes of wind.

Some navigators prefer making their easting in a higher latitude than
39" or 40° S., whilst others steer a more direct course for Java Head than is
here recommended ; but the above directions are those usually followed in
H.M. ships, and are generally believed to be the best.

Now, respecting this choice of the parallel of about 39°, on which to run
eastward, the distance to be traversed, or the approximate 75° of longitude
from the offing of the cape to the point where you must bear oflF to the north-
ward, is about 3,508 miles, a distance of nearly 600 miles would be saved if
the latitude of 50° were taken.

On this point Captain Maury, who differs from the Admiralty, says as
follows : —

A vessel bound through the Straits of Sunda, after crossing the equator,
usually holds her wind, hauling up to the eastward as the S.E. trades of the
Atlantic will allow, until she gets into the calm belt of Capricorn. Here,
though she may not find long continued calms, she finds, nevertheless, those
light winds which are always found to prevail in that sort of debateable
ground which is always between any two systems of winds. This calm belt
is between the S.E. trades on one side, and the variables, or " brave West
winds," of the southern hemisphere, on the other.

Having cleared the trades, the present practice of mariners is to edge oflF
a little to the East of South until they gain the parallel of 35° — 37° ; crossing
this, they haul up due East, between the parallels of 37° and 39°, and run
between them — the place of all others where the southern edge of the cy-

44 PASSAGES.

clones which traverse those parallels is most apt to be felt adversely — from
the prime meridian to longitude 80° — 85° E. Now, if any one were seeking
to find a route that passes through the regions most beset with light and
baffling winds, this is the route to which I should point. The idea of sailing
5,000 miles along the borders of the calm belt of Capricorn, as many East
Indiamen do, when there is sea room for the Great Circle route, with the
" brave West winds " " following fast," is simply absurd.

Having run along this " debateable ground," and reached the meridian of
80° or 85° E., another mistake is committed by crossing this calm belt in the
Indian Ocean again obliquely, which should never be done. These calm
belts should alway?, whenever the land and dangers will admit, be crossed
as directly on a meridian as the winds will allow ; for the sooner you cross
them, the sooner you will get winds that will drive you along.

Such is the course of the present route, as the Dutch crossings abundantly
show, and has been shortened for the Dutch, and may be shortened for the
Americans and all others, ten days or more, by all vessels that will follow
this course.

(1) After crossing the parallel of St. Roque, stand through the S.E. trades
with a rap full and topmast studding sail, as if you were bound to Australia,
not caring to make better than a S.S.E. course good, until you lose the
trades, clear the calms of Capricorn, and get the " brave West winds " on
the polar side of them. Vessels that do this will generally clear the calms,
and get the " brave West winds " by the time they reach latitude 3.5°— 40°,
finding themselves at this juncture somewhere between the meridians of 20°
and 30° W. Now shape your course per Great Circle for the intersection of
parallel of 40°, with the meridian of 80° — 85° E., or any other near which
it may be deeiiied advisable, with the changing seasons, to enter the region
of the S.E. trades of the Indian Ocean.

The following route, from 30° W. 35° S. to the intersection of this parallel,
with 85° E., difi'ers so little from the Great Circle, that the difference becomes
practically of no moment.

(2) Suppose you clear the calms of Capricorn in latitude 35°, longitude
30° W., now steer fur the meridian of 10° E., at its intersection with the
parallel of 48° or 50° S. ; then run on between these parallels to longitude
50°. From this point steer for the intersection of 85° E. and 35° S. The
total distance to be run South of the parallel of 35° being 5,000 miles, the
distance by the present route being 5,500 miles; so here is one day's sail
gained by the " short cut," and certainly better winds.

(3) But suppose you have good luck in the South Atlantic, and can clear
the calms of Capricorn in 20° W. instead of 30° W., but in the same latitude,
your course then is to aim to strike the parallel of 50° in 20° E., and then
run along it as before to 50° E., the distance South of 35° by this route being
4,900 miles.

ATLANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 45

But suppose the winds favour you still more, and you be in 10° W. before
you reach the parallel of 35° ; in this case you should run between the
parallels of 45° — 46° till you come to the meridian of 50° E. You should so
shape your course from 10° W. as to get between these parallels, near the
meridian of 20° E. The distance South of 35°, by this route, is 4,400 miles ;
in other words, the distance from the usual place of crossing the parallel of
St. Roque to Java Head is —

By present route, 9,200 miles; by (1), 8,940 miles; by (2), 8,730 miles;
by (3), 8,520 miles.

There is no part of the world where the master of a sailing vessel can turn
his knowledge of the principles of Great Circle sailing to more advantage
than he can when his course is East in that great expanse of ocean on the
polar side of the calm belt by Capricorn. Here, when his course has easting
in it, the famous westerly winds of that region will drive him ahead with the
force and velocity of steam power.

Suppose, therefore, a navigator, bound for the Straits of Sunda, should,
instead of heading up East on crossing 35° S., near 30° "W., after having
crossed the equator near this meridian, proceed to 40° S. before heading
up East, how much would his distance from the equator in the Atlantic to
the crossing of 40^ S. in longitude 85° E. be increased ? Answer, 100 miles.
His gain in time to off-set this increase of distance would be a quicker run
through the calms of Capricorn by reason of going straight across them, and
the further advantage of strong winds along the more southern route.

The best course, under all circumstances, is as a rule, to do thus : — Run
from the equator in the Atlantic to the South as fast as you can, caring little
for easting until you have cleared the calms of Capricorn, and caught the
" brave West winds" on the polar side of that belt ; then shape your course
so as to cross 20° E. between 47° and 52° S. ; leave these parallels about
the meridian of 60° E., and then steer thence for the parallel of 40° S., near
its intersection with 85° E.

This description of the course to be run, and the points of intersection to
be gained, is given only for those navigators who may be unable to get out
of the true Great Circle routes and courses.

It is well to remark that most ice has been seen along this route, between
20° and 40° E., and that much is to be gained by running down your easting
as near to the South as ice and safety will permit. So impressed have I
been with the gain to be made by running well to the South in this part of
the ocean, that I formerly said, with regard to the route to Australia —

" In further proof that the route recommended in the Sailing Directions
of the Admiralty is too far to the North, and as an illustration of the advan-
tage of the route which I advise, I have prepared some tables, and it appears
from them that there is no longer room for difference of opinion as to the
advantages of going farther South than 39°— 40°; how much farther, though,

46 PASSAGES.

still remains to be decided. But so far as the facts before us go, they justify
the assertion that for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route to
Australia, you gain three days on the average, until you reach the parallel
of 45° — 6°, for the averages of the table are not below this parallel ; and I
believe it will turn out that the best streak of wind, in the long run, is to
be found between 45° and 50° 8. It seems to be almost as steady, between
these parallels, from the westward, as it is anywhere to the East, between
the trade wind parallels of 15° and 20°. The average "vertex" of those
that go South of 41° is 53° 33' ; the average "vertex" of those that go
North of that parallel is 39° 7' S. The mean parallels upon which the latter
run down their longitude is 38° 52', and the former 43° 59' ; for this diifer-
ence of 5°, the average gain of those who take the more southern parallels is
14 days, which comes very near to an average of 3 days' gain on the voj'^age
to Australia for every degree you go South of the Admiralty route. As far
as 80° E., the Admiralty route to Australia and the old route to Sunda are
the same. The average speed to Australia by the Admiralty route is 134
miles a day against 154 by the new route ; so that the route well to the
South has in its favour not only better winds, but shorter degrees and longer
daily runs.

If the winds were fair all the way, the nearest route to Java Head from
the fairway off St. Roque would be via the Cape of Good Hope ; indeed, the
Great Circle from St. Koque to Java runs through the unexplored regions of
Africa. But both the winds and the land render such a route in navigation
impracticable ; for the former generally compel the outward Indiaman, in
spite of herself, to cross the meridian of 25° W. as far South as the parallel
of 30° — 33° S. ; and the Great Circle thence to Java Head passes some
8° or 10° South of the Cape of Good Hope. Moreover, the winds in the
Indian Ocean render a departure from the Great Circle again necessary.
The winds, however, are such as to admit all four of the routes on pages
42, 43, ante.

The route No. 3 is 600 miles shorter, and has better winds than the
present route. But, after clearing the S.E. trades of the Atlantic, the pre-
sent route runs about 1,000 miles obliquely across the calms of Capricorn,
where the average rate of sailing is not over 100 miles a day. Now, by
going straight across these calms as by route (1), you will clear them gene-
rally in two days, and then get those " brave West winds," which will waft
you along at the rate of 200 or 300 miles a day, according to the heels of
the ship.

The navigator, therefore, will act most wisely who will wait, and let things
as he may find them govern him as to where, after clearing the S.E. trades,
he will begin to shape his course for the Great Circle to the meridian of 85°
East, or for the meridian near which he proposes to cross the calms of Ca-
pricorn in the Indian Ocean. Suffi' e it to say, he may begin to do it any-

ATLANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 47

where South of 30°, and between the meridians of 30° and 10° W., and reach
Java Head several days sooner, on the average, than he would by continuing
to follow the present; route.

In attempting to follow these Great Circle routes, navigators should recol-
lect that the greate&t saving of distance, as compared with the rhumb-line
route, is always along those arcs that lie nearly East and West, and are
farthest from the equator ; and that, so far as distance is concerned, he
might as well be out of his way on one side of these arcs as the other. As
illustrative of this route, I may refer to the track of a ship whose log I
have, and with regard to which I only say that, it she had stood on from lat.
28° to 35° S., at that season, in long. 20° W., and then shaped her course
per Grreat Circle route, she would probably have done better ; as it is, she
crossed the meridians as follows : — 0° in 36° 20' S. ; 20° E. in 38° 20' S. ;
40° E. in 38° 35' S. ; 60° E. in 38° S. ; 70° E. in 38° 20' S. ; 80° E. in 36" S. ;
90° E. in 33° 0' S. ; which is a fair representation of the average June route
of the Dutch.

"Arriving in lat. 28° 0' S., long 22° W., I projected," says her master,
" on my chart, the Great Circle course thence to Java Head, the vertex being
in lat. 44° S., and long, about 25° E. I adhered to this course as far as
practicable, having in view the favourable sailing points of the vessel, and
being compelled to run her before some of the heavy seas of the high lati-
tudes until reaching the parallel of 30° in long, about 69° E., when I deemed
it prudent to keep to the eastward of the Great Circle course, and approach
the meridian of Java Head larther South, to forelay for the chance of there
being considerable easting in the trades. I crossed the tropic in about
94° 30' E. long., and fetched Java Head, sailing upon an easy bow-line
(which is a good sailing point of the vessel, and, I believe, of most sharp
vessels). I will remark here that I could find nothing explicit in ' Hors-
burgh' regarding the direction of the wind in the S.E. trades; but, after
many unsatisfactory remarks, the whole is summed up on page 161, vol. i.
5th edition, thus : — When the sun has great North declination, it may not
be absolutely requisite for ships which sail well to reach the meridian of
thoir port so far southward, the trade wind then blowing more from S.E. and
E.S.E. in general than from East and E.N.E.

Accompanying my abstract is an abstract of the log of the ship Minstrel,
of Boston, which vessel (commanded by my brother) pursued the Admiralty
route in running up her easting ; and, although he crossed the equator in
the Atlantic 12 days before me, yet I made Java Head the day before him,
and there was not much difference in the sailing of the vessels. Where I
gained on him most was in high latitudes. Although I made a fair passage
by pursuing the circle course so far as the latitude of 33°, yet I would not
again adhere to it farther than the vertex ; thence, I would sail East on or
near, that parallel until reaching the longitude of 90", or thereabouts • then

48 PASSAGES.

hauling North across the belt of variables to the southward of the trades, at
right angles, and be upon the safe side, after reaching the trades, at any
season of the year.

A good passage could, perhaps, be made by sailing on a circle course from
the Atlantic to a good position relative with Java Head, in the Indian
Ocean, say 95° E. and 33° S. ; but the vertex should be far South of 53°, or
thereabout. And I should not feel justified in attempting to pursue such a
route, until we have some definite information relative to the existence of
danger from ice, against which Horsburgh cautions navigators.

Navigators, by taking the old route, are liable to meet with another diffi-
culty, especially when they attempt to run down their longitude near the
parallel of 35° — 6° S. About this parallel is a famous place for circular
storms— cyclones. They revolve with the sun, and the parallel of 35°— 6° ia
frequently traversed by the southern edge of them ; consequently, as these
storms travel East or West, the wind on the southern edge of them is gene-
rally from the eastward."

Thus far Captain Maury, to which two remarks may be appended, the
one on the dangers from ice in high southern latitudes, the other on the
occurrence of cyclones in the lower parallels.

The frequency of ice and its peculiarities in the Southern Indian Ocean is
dwelt upon in our Directory for the Indian Ocean, pages 86 — 91, and it is
there shown that the drifts attain a lower latitude in the southern winter
than at other seasons, nearly approaching the Cape of Good Hope in July
to September, but then it is considered that they leave a clear space to the
southward. In January to March they are not frequently encountered north-
ward of 55° S.

In the same work the question of the occurrence of cyclones on the paral-
lels indicated is discussed, and to those pages the reader is referred.

There can be no doubt but these revolving storms do sometimes attain
these latitudes after recurving from the northward, and passing to the east-
ward. Should the well-known indications of these meteors be clearly ascer-
tained, of course it behoves the commander to seek that edge of the disk (the
northern edge), which will help him forward on his voyage, rather than be
opposed by the contrary gales on its southern margins.

But it is argued by some that these gales are generally not revolving, but
are right lined winds, or so slightly curved in their paths that they cannot
be classed as cyclones. Upon this topic see pages 12, 13, of the Indian
Ocean Directory — the whole subject and its application being given in pages
5 to 17, and 151 to 159.

To the two opinions given above, as to the best parallel for running down
the easting after passing round the Cape of Good Hope, we may add that of
Mr. Towson, whose labours on this subject are well known. It is true that
his object was to shorten the road to Australia, and therefore the tracks lie

ATIANTIC TO STRAIT OF SUNDA. 49

to the southward of that great continent ; but they will hold good equally
for that which diverges to the northward before reaching this eastern exten-
sion. He chooses the parallel of 51° S. for passing across the Southern
Indian Ocean to the southward of Kerguelen Land.

With all deference to these great authorities, may it not be that all are
right, if their views are followed in different seasons. It would seem to be
quite natural that a lower latitude would carry all the advantages during the
winter season that a high parallel does in the summer. The limits between
the trade winds and the westerly anti-trades certainly vibrates in latitude
with the progress of the sun in the ecliptic ; and therefore, during the in-
clement winter, the Admiralty parallel of 39° — 40° may be quite as advan-
tageous (except as regards the distance to be run) as the probably more bois-
terous but shorter course in higher latitude. Aguiii, in the summer months
the parallels advocated by Maury and Towson may certainly be safely fol-
lowed ; but in this, also, some other considerations may enter. The sailing
powers of the ship, the nature of her cargo, and the health of the crew and
passengers (especially if the latter be an important item in the account)
would lead the commander to hesitate before he would carry his vessel into
climates very much colder than that he has recently left, and which he will
soon enter again, and where he will probably meet with heavy winds and
turbulent seas.

As has been said above, the point does not appear to be entirely decided,
nor can it be so when each ship may, from motives of expediency, require
different handling. The above facts and opinions are given, and the com-
mander must make his own choice of them. For pursuing the voyage to the
northward, the following is given in the Admiralty Directions.

In the South-east Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of April to the middle
of September, vessels, having passed the island of St. Paul, should not edge
away too quickly to the northward, but should endeavour to reach first as
far to the eastward into the S.E. trade wind as the meridian of Java Head,
crossing the southern tropic in about 102° E. In this season a westerly
current runs along the South coast of Java, and in the months of June, July,
and August, when it is at its greatest strength, it will be indispensable to be
well to the eastward, or otherwise the ship will be liable to fall to leeward
of Java Head. In the vicinity of Java the S.E. monsoon also veers some-
times to East or E.N.E.

In the North-west Monsoon, i.e., from the middle of October to the mid-
dle of March, but especially in December and January, the southern tropic
should be crossed several degrees to the westward of the meridian of Java
Head, when a direct course can be steered for Sunda Strait, or to make En-
gano Island, or the land about Flat Point, the southern extreme of Sumatra.
Great care must be taken during this monsoon not to fall to leeward of Java
Head, for the westerly winds blow with great violence along the South coast

I. A. ii

60 PASSAGES.

of Java, and their strength, united with the strong current setting to the
eastward, make it impracticable to beat up along this coast ; a vessel may
thus have to steer to the southward, and re-enter the S.E. trade, in order to
make sufficient westing to fetch Flat Point. When nearly on the parallel of
Java Head, and one or two degrees to the westward of it, a direct course may
be steered for the Strait, with an allowance for a probable current setting to
the southward.

If contrary winds are met with shortly after leaving St. Paul Island, in
November, December, or January, a vessel may steer at once to the north-
ward, and cross the tropic in 80° or 90° E., when she will meet with westerly
winds to carry her to the strait.

Shifting of the Monsoons.— During the period when these changes occur,
i.e., from about the middle of September to the end of October, and from
about the middle of March to the end of April, the winds are variable and
uncertain. It is advisable at those times to make sufficient easting in the
S.E. trade to bring Java Head nearly North, and then to steer direct for it,
borrowing a little to the eastward or westward, when it is approached, as
may be required by the prevailing wind or other circumstances.

2.— SOUTHERN INDIA TO THE STEAITS OF MALACCA.

In the S.W. Monsoon. — In this, the fair wind season, there is no great
difficulty in making a passage around the South end of Ceylon, or from
Madras, or any of the Coromandel ports. Having passed Ceylon, steer so
as to pass, in lat. 6° 20' N., through the channel between Pulo Eondo and
the South end of the Great Nicobar. If the monsoon be strong from southern
quarters, and the weather overcast, so that there may be some uncertainty
in the latitude for want of observations, keep southward towards Acheen
Head, to guard against the chance of a northerly current. But great caution
is necessary in such weather, because, should the wind have had much
westing in it, it may have caused a south-westerly current down the West
coast of Sumatra, Such a contingency must be guarded against when it is
neared in dark, stormy weather. Acheen is generally best made from the
southward at this season, passing with great precaution either through the
Surat Passage iwithin the islands, or, which is better, northward of Pulo
Brasse, by the Bengal Passage.

Bound through the strait, and having passed the islands off Acheen Head,
which is then best to be avoided, stand on towards Pulo Bouton, on the
eastern side of the Strait of Malacca, because, as has been before explained,
the high land of the Pedir Coast, intercepting the monsoon, causes light
baffling winds all along the Sumatra side. When Pulo Bouton is made
bearing to eastward, you may be able to carry brisk westerly winds up to
Pulo Penang. Should the winds be light, a northerly current may be

STRAITS OF MALACCA TO SOUTHERN INDIA. 51

encountered setting out of the entrance to the strait, and this may set the
ship to northward of Pulo Bouton ; but when once the islands on the Malay
coast are made, there will be no difficulty in getting along that coast to the
S.E. Keep within a moderate di^stance of the coast, in 35 to 20 fathoms,
making for the Sambilangs, carefully avoiding the mud bank off the coast
between Penang and Pulo Binding, in lat. 4° 14' N. The outer edge of this,
as is shown in the subsequent descriptions, is steep-to, shoaling suddenly
from 10 and 8 fathoms to 9 ft. in some parts, and it must therefore not be
neared into less than 12 to 15 fathoms. Passing between the steep, rocky
Sambilangs and the isolated Pulo Jarra, in the middle of the strait, which
is perfectly clean with the deepest water in the strait around it, you make
for the West end of the North Sands, those dangerous shoals which run
parallel with the coast, but which danger is much diminished by the light-
ship on the One-fathom Bank, between the North and South sands. Should
you meet with an adverse wind when up with the Sambilangs, keep along
the Perak coast in moderate depths, not less than 10 or 11 fathoms, as there
may be a useful counter-tide and good anchorage in doing so. Having
arrived at the One-fathom Bank and its lightship, and sighted the Arroa
Islands, there will be no difficulty in getting up to Singapore, as shown in
the subsequent descriptions.

In the N.E. Monsoon. — The passage to the eastward against this fine
weather monsoon is tedious and lingering. Having passed Ce^-lon, it is best
to keep to the northward, passing between the Nicobar Islands and the
Little Andaman ; or, if from Madras, through the Sonibreiro Channel.
Those from Ceylon should keep well in with the South end of the Great
Nicobar, if the wind will permit, in entering the strait. But should you get
drifted to leeward of Pulo Brasse, enter it by the Surat Passage, around
Acheen Head. When past Acheen Head, a westerly current will be en-
countered running along the coast between that and Diamond Point ; but
in the offing and on the Malay side it sets more or less to the northward
throughout the ^ear. Therefore, when within the strait, get away from the
{Sumatra coast, and try to gain the Malay side, where there are more
favourable winds, tidal streams, and the alternating land and sea breezes
by which you may work to the S.E.

3.— STRAITS OF MALACCA TO SOUTHERN INDIA.

In the S.W. Monsoon. — It is best to keep on the Sumatra side of the
Malacca Strait in going westward during this monsoon, because there is an
eddy current at its entrance on that side, especially along the Pedir Coast.
Having, by means of every shift of wind and this favouring drift got up to
Acheen Head, pass between Pulo Way and Pulo Brasse by the Bengal
Passage, keeping close to the latter island and around the islets at its North

S2 PASSAGES.

end. If bound to Madras the passage will be very tedious, and every slant
of wind must be zealously taken advantage of.

If bound for Ceylon or the western ports, and having cleared Acheen
Head, make for the southward, keeping off the islands along the West coast
of Sumatra as far as possible. Having crossed the equator, and got into
the S.E. trades, run down your westing till up with the meridian of the
port of destination. Then bear up northward, and if bound to Point de
Galle, make the land of Ceylon to the westward ; or, if to Trincomalee or
the East coast, make the S.E. part of the island, for strong westerly winds
and very violent easterly currents prevail about the South part of Ceylon at
this season.

This passage to the eastward, during the adverse monsoon, is seldom at-
tempted if it can be avoided, and unless a vessel can keep well on the wind
it may be very difficult.

In the N.E. Monsoon. — There is do difficulty in this passage. Keep on
the Malay coast until up with Junkseylon, and then steer so as to pass be-
tween Car Nicobar and the South end of the Little Andaman, if early in the
season. If bound noi'thward of Madras, either the above or the Sombreiro
Passage may be chosen, taking care to make the coast to the northward of
the destined port.

4.-SUNDA STEAIT TO BANKA STEAIT.

Having passed through Sunda Strait, for which directions will be given in
the subsequent pages, and bound to Banka Strait, it is usual to steer a direct
course for the Two Brothers. With a working wind, it will be prudent to
keep within a moderate distance of the Sumatra coast; 11 or 12 fathoms ia
a good depth. A good mark in daylight is, when standing in-shore, to tack
when North Island is just on with the highest Zutphen Island ; the sound-
ings will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and a large ship should not risk
a less depth when working between North Island and the Swallow Eock,
which she will pass eastward of, if the South Brother is not brought east-
ward of N. by E.

Although the space between the Thousand Islands and the Two Brothers
can be navigated with more confidence since its partial examination by Com-
mander Bullock, in H.M.S. Serpent, in 1865, yet, as no complete survey has
been made, the mariner is recommended to proceed with caution. The
Brothers may be passed at a prudent distance on either side. On passing to
the eastward, take care to avoid the Lynn and Brouwers Eeefs ; and when
passing between the islands and the Shahbundar Banks, a vessel should not
keep larther from the islands than 3 miles, and not nearer the coast of Su-
matra than the depth of 9 fathoms.

Having passed the Brothers, steer to the northward towards Lucipara,

BANKA STRAIT TO SUNDA STRAIT. 63

keeping the Brothers to the westward of South, to avoid the reported posi-
tion of the Clifton shoal, and endeavouring to keep in soundings from 9 to
12 fathoms, as a direct course cannot be depended upon, on account of irre-
gular currents or tides setting out from the rivers. Neither can the sound-
ings in this track be implicitly trusted to, being irregular, from 8^ to 11 or
12 fathoms in some places, particularly contiguous to Tree Island bank, and
the edges of the other banks projecting from the coast of Sumatra, also in
the vicinity of the Arend and Boreas banks in the offing. It will be, how-
ever, prudent to borrow towards the main if the depths increase to 12 or 13
fathoms ; and to haul off from it if they decrease to 8A or 9 fathoms towards
the banks that line the coast. Near these the soundings are generally hard
and more irregular than farther out from the land, in 12 or 13 fathoms ;
but, in the latter depths, a ship will be too far off the coast with a westerly
■wind.

When the weather is clear, during the day, it may be proper to get a sight
of the coast from the poop of a large ship at times, edging out occasionally
in the night, or when the depths decrease to 8J or 9 fathoms. Having passed
the bank off Tree Island, the coast may be approached with greater safety,
and the depth will decrease, regularly steering northward for Lucipara, to
6| fathoms, when it bears N. ^ E. about 10 miles.

If at night a vessel should come into shallow water between the Two
Brothers and Lucipara, and not being certain whether she is on either the
Arend or Boreas banks, or the bank off the coast of Sumatra, it is advisable
to anchor immediately, and to wait for daylight, for the depths are moderate,
and the bottom throughout this track generally favourable for that pur-
pose.

5.— BANKA STRAIT TO SUNDA STRAIT.

When bound from Banka Strait to that of Sunda, the proper course will
be about S. by E., keeping in from 9 to 13 fathoms ; but the currents are
too variable to trust implicitly to any course, and the depths also are top
irregular to depend on them alone, for the 5 and 4^ fathoms Boreas and
Arend banks may be easily mistaken for those south-eastward of Tree
Island, which are very dangerous. It will therefore be advisable in day-
time to keep on the Sumatra side in 8 or 9 fathoms, from which depths that
shore is generally visible from the deck, and at night to keep off shore
when the water shoals to less than 9 fathoms, and to approach it when it
deepens to more than 13 fathoms, as that depth with westerly winds would
be too far off.

Having arrived in about 3° 40' S., or about 30 miles distant from the Two
Brothers, keep as nearly as possible in 9 or 10 fathoms, so as to get sight of
these islands bearing South, but not to the eastward of that bearing in order
to avoid the Clifton Shoal ; otherwise, if made when in 1 1 fathoms, it would

54 PASSAGES.

be difficult to weather them with a westerly wind, especially as the current
runs to the south-eastward during the western monsoon. When passing
to the eastward of the Two Brothers, recollect the Brouwers and Lynn Eeefs.

Coming from the northward the Two Brothers appear like one island, and
hence some vessels have been led into danger by mistaking Mound Imbong,
or Knob-hill, in Sumatra, when seen in the twilight, for these islands. Sail-
ing past these islands at night, the vessel's position should be well ascertained
before dark, or else it would be better to anchor.

Having passed on either side of the Brothers, the safest bearing to bring
them upon appears to be N. ^ E. After losing sight of them upon that
bearing, a course about S. by W. may be steered for the entrance of Sunda
Strait.

Captain Ste-phens, of the shi-p ffarkawat/, says: — "In May, approaching
Sunda Strait from the eastward the Java side should be steered for, and kept
aboard, as then the winds are light, those from S.E. prevailing at night, and
from N.E. during the day ; this precaution will prevent the vessel being
carried by the current to the westward of the Button Islet ; this current runs
constantly to the S. W. in the middle of the strait, it is checked by the short
flood, but runs strong with a long ebb."

6.-BANKA STEAIT TO SINGAPORE.

Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore seldom adopt the O uter
route to the eastward of the islands of Linga and Bintang, most vessels pre-
ferring to proceed by Ehio Strait ; it, however, forms part of the main route
into the China Sea, and is therefore of great importance.

Outer Eoute. — The ordinary route for vessels bound northward is be-
tween the Toejoe Islands and Pulo Taya ; they may, however, pass on either
eide of Pulo Taya, which, being high and bold, is very convenient to make
in thick weather or at night.

At night, or in thick weather, the lead will be very useful in detecting the
drift caused by cross currents between the Toejoe Islands and Sumatra, for
the depth decreases generally towards Sumatra, and increases towards those
islands ; but care should be taken in approaching them, as the remarkable
irregularities of the currents have brought many vessels into the danger of
being entangled among them. Near Sumatra a mud bottom mixed with
Band prevails, and near the islands mud only.

The Castor Bank, lying to the N.E. of Pulo Taya, carries not less than 5
fathoms water, but a vessel will pass eastward of it by not bringing Pulo
Taya South of S.W. ^ W., and westward of it by keeping that island South
of S.S.W. ^ W. The East point of Linga (which, with a point to the w^est-
ward of it, appears at a distance like two islands) bearing N.N.W. will lead
from 4 to 5 miles to the N.E. both of the Castor Bank and the Ilchester
Shoal. But in order to avoid the last-named danger, if the channel between

SINGAPOEE TO HONG KONG. 55

the Castor Bank and Linga is used, take care not to bring the East point of
Linga to the East of North.

Having passed eastward of Pule Taya, a course may be steered to cross
the equator in 20 or 21 fathoms, or in long. 106° 30' E. From the equator
steer about North until past the Frederick and Oeldria shoals, observing in
the night not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms between lat. 0° 30' and 0° 50' N.
to avoid those dangers ; if it be day when Pulo Euig or Ragged Island ia
seen, keep it westward of N.W., and it will lead eastward of these shoals.
When abreast of Pulo Panjang, and in soundings of 24 or 25 fathoms water,
a N.W. or N.W. by W. course, according to tide, will lead to the entrance
of Singapore Strait.

The Inner Route, by the Strait of Rhio, will be noticed in connection
with the description of the coast of the strait hereafter given, as the various
marks, &c., will be best understood by referring to those descriptions.

Vessels bound from Banka Strait to Singapore during the strength of the
N.E. monsoon frequently adopt the Inner Route by the Varella and Durian
Straits. During the prevalence of strong northerly winds in the months of
December and January, sailing vessels will save much time by doing so, for
here they will have smooth water, good anchorage, and but little tide,
whereas on the eastern side of Linga, at this season of the year, there ia
generally a heavy sea, and a southerly current sometimes running at the rate
of 3 knots an hour. In Yarella Strait they will also be greatly assisted by
the squalls from the Sumatra coast.

Varella, or Brahalla Strait, is situated at the southern part of this route,
and Durian Strait at its northern part ; the intermediate portion has not
received a specific denomination. The entire route is about 120 miles in
length from Pulo Varella to the Carimon Islands, and is bounded on the
western side by the coast of Sumatra, False Durian, Sabon, and the con-
tiguous islands ; and on the eastern side by Sinkep and the other islands off
the South and West coasts of Linga, and by Great and Little Durian, and
the adjacent islands.

The Strait of Malacca and Strait of Singapore, and their navigation,
will be also described in subsequent pages.

7.— SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG.

In South-west Monsoon. — When June approaches, and the S.W. mon-
soon is set regularly in, the track from Singapore to China by the main
route^ eastward of Pulo Sapatu and over Macclesfield Bank, is preferable,
the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast. About
full and change of the moon, and as early as April, a westerly breeze will
sometimes be found blowing out of the Gulf of Siam to carry a vessel
to Macclesfield Bank, and afterwards easterly winds to run her to Hong
Kong.

56 PASSAGES.

Thia route becomes precarious if a sailing vessel is not up with Pulo
Sapatu early in October ; for near this island, about the middle of that
mouth, strong southerly currents begin to prevail with light northerly winds,
variable airs, and calms, by which many vessels have been delayed lor
several days, and have made no progress to the northward. Fresh winds
from the southward have been met with, even so late as 1st of November,
but these instances are rare.

Some vessels proceeding by the main route have carried strong S.W. and
southerly winds, when others taking the inner route have at the same time
experienced N.W. and westerly gales blowing out of the Gulf of Tong King,
with dark weather and rain, and have been in danger of being driven among
the Paracel Eeefs ; the inner route ought, however, to be chosen in the
strength of the S.W. monsoon if the vessel is weak and making much water,
for the sea will be smooth, and being near the land she may reach an an-
chorage if required. The gales out of the gulf are not frequent, and the land
may be kept in sight nearly all the time.

Taking the inner route, steer from Pulo Aor along the coast to the Eedang
Islands, thence across the Gulf of Siam, and along the coasts of Cambodia
and Cochin China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Touron. From thence
Bteer for the S.W. part of Hainan, coasting along this island, and passing
between it and the Taya Islands ; then cross over to make the coast of
China about Tien-pak, or Hailing Island. The islands from thence to
Hong Kong may be coasted along at discretion, or shelter may be found
amongst them on an emergency. If this route is taken before the middle of
March or 1st of April, the passage will be tedious unless the vessel is a

good sailer.

Bound to Hong Kong in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, with the wind
steady between S.E. and S.W., endeavour to make the Great Ladrone Island
bearing about North, then steer between it and the Kypong Islands, and
between Lingting and the Lema Islands, for the West Lamma Channel.
After the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to prevail seve-
ral days together, as they are more or less at all seasons, it will be necessary
to make the N.E. head of the Lema Islands, and proceed in by the Lema
Channel, towards the West Lamma Channel. The East Lamma Channel is
also safe in both monsoons, for although the water is deep, if the wind falls
light it is safe to anchor in, and there is little or no tide.

In North-east Monsoon. — Sailing vessels leaving Singapore for China in
February, March, and part of April, may expect a tedious beating passage,
if they adopt the main route. In March, April, or May, they can proceed
by the inner route along the Coast of Cochin China, which is generally the
most expeditious route in these months.

The passage to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luzon may be fol-
lowed late in the S.W. monsoon ; without much difElculty in October and

SINGAPOEE TO HONQ KONG. 57

November ; and it is now often made in December, January, and at every
period of the N.E. mcnsoou.*

In December, January, and February,! sailing vessels should not leave
the entrance of Singapore Strait, in strong N.E. winds, but anchor on the
northern shore, under the Water Islands, in 9 or 10 fathoms. In those
months gales often occur at new and full moon ; the weather is then thick,
the rain lasting two or three days, and the current outside accelerates to the
S.S.E. ^ E. from 2^ to 3 knots an hour. A vessel leaving the strait then,
instead of fetching St. Barbe Island, would fall bodily to leeward, and have
to work up the West coast of Borneo. Fine weather follows, the wind
backing round to North and N. W. ; the current in the offing decreasing in
strength to about 1 i knot.

Leave the Water Islands with the first of the ebb, and keep clean full.
Stand to the north-eastward to go through the channel between Subi Island
and the Great Natuna ; a passage that may without much difficulty be
made, in these months especially, at full and change, when the wind, after

• It was formerly the general custom for the clipper vessels employed in the opiuni
trade hetween India and China to beat up the middle of the China Sea in the strength of
the N.E. monsoon, keeping as close to the western edges of the reefs as possible, where
the current was found to be generally in their favour. Many commanders who have been
accustomed to make their passages in that way are strongly of opinion that it is the best
route for vessels later in the season than the month of November, whilst others who have
been accustomed to proceed by the Palawan have just as strong opinions in favour of that
route. The following remarks of Mr. T. B. White, who was for many years in command
of clipper vessels engaged in the opium trade, appear to be exceedingly valuable, inasmuch
as thej' furnish a balanced opinion on the respective advantages of these routes. He says :
" I am sorry I cannot say much from experience in oeating up the Palawan in a sailing
vessel, for during the entire period of my command of the Lanrick I never once went that
way, but always along the western edges of the shoals. I am, however, now quite certain
that I should have often made much quicker passages, and saved much wear and tear, by
going up the Palawan. In the Fiery Cross, although a powerful steamer, I found it pre-
ferable to take the Palawan, and always did so during the strength of the N.E. monsoon
(November to February), saving fuel and wear and tear ; and, though a longer route, mads
better passages by getting smooth water and often favourable currents. I believe nearly
all heavily laden ships now take the Palawan from October until the end of February in
preference to the outer passage, and a current to the north-eastward is generally felt the
nearer the Borneo coast is kept aboard, and usually the weather is moderate, with a rolling
beam swell on ; at l^ast that has been m.y experience when going up in the steamer, Mr.
Eeynell, in the clipper Waterwitch, usually took the Palawan in the N.E. monsoon, and
made some very good passages. Now that it is so thoroughly well surveyed, I consider it
quite as safe as the outer passage."

t These directions (as far eastward as the Natuna Islands) apply with equal force to
vessels bound either to the Gulf of Siam or the River Saigon. They have been compiled
chiefly from " Sailing Directions between Singapore and the River Saigon, by Mr. A. J.
LoituR, commanding the ship Kensington," by Commander J. W. King, E.N.

I. A. t

58 PASSAGES.

a few hours' calm, frequently hauls to the westward with squalls and rain,
and then veers round to S.W. and South, blowing moderately for 2^ hours.

By taking avantage of these slants, Subi may be easily weatliered, and
the intricate channels between it and the N.W. coast of Borneo avoided.
After fetching Low Island, in long. 107° 48' E., if the wind continues
easterly, take the starboard tack to the northward, passing westward of
Low Island, keeping not less than 3 miles from the south-western side, to
avoid the shoal water as far as 2 miles from its shore. Q-ive Haycock a
berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing, as the coral shoal about that island extends
fully 3 miles from its S.W. side. Large ships should not pass eastward of
Haycock at night, as this locality is said to have hidden danger.

Alter passing Haycock there will be no difficulty in working up to the
S.E. point of the Great Natuna, as that island, when approaching it from the
S.W., shelters against the strong N.E. current of the monsoon. Off its
southern shore at night, in fine weather, the wind is ofi" the land, which
should not be appi'oached nearer than 2 or 3 miles without a good breeze, as
the water is deep close in-shore, and no good anchorage.

Vessels fetching to leeward of Subi with a northerly wind should take the
Koti Passa'2;e, between Pulo Panjung and Sirhassen Island. The Sirhassen
Passage is also a good channel, and quite safe when the South side of
Sirhassen Island is kept aboard. The currents among these islands are
more regular ; but not so in the Api Passage, where they set in various
directions, and with great velocity to the S.W. from 16 to 19 hours at a time ;
for large ships any of the other passages are preferable to this, for great
caution and perseverance are requisite in working through, as the Borneo
coast in from 10 to 11 fathoms water must be kept aboard to avoid the cur-
rent and profit by the land winds.*

In taking the Koti Passage, give Pulo Panjung a good berth to avoid the

* For steam vessels (especially those of small power) proceeding; to China by the Palawan
passage against the N.E. monsoon, the route by the Api Passage and the coast of Borneo
presents the following advantages : hrst, light, variable winds and smooth water will often
be found close to the Borneo coast, when a strong monsoon is blowing a hundred miles off
it ; and next the Api passage route affords convenient landmarks to lead a vessel safely and
expeditiously to the entrance of the Palawan ; whereas by the ordinary route much diffi-
culty and delay frequently occurs in making Low Island, and in passing between the Royal
Charlotte and Louisa iShoals.

Steamers leaving Singapore should pass southward of Victory Island, then steer to sight
the small island of St. Pierre (carefully observing and allowing lor the set of the current),
and afterwards for the Api Passage, keeping over towards Marundiim Island rather than
Api Point. Ha\'ing passed Marundum and Data Point, the course is cl^ar up to the en-
trance of the Palawan, passing between the South Luconia shoals and Barram Point, and
keeping as close to the Borneo coast until abreast of that point as circumstances may make
convenient.— Navigating-Lieutenant J. W. Reed, commanding Her Majesty's surveying
vessel Itifleman, 1866.

SINGAPOEE TO HOXG KONG. 59

dangerous reef wliich suirouudB it. The winds amongsst these islands, aud
as far eastward as the meiidian of Cape iSirik, are generally from Nurth to
N.N.W. The passage cleared, proceed to the north-eastward; endeavour-
ing, if not ct-rtaiu oi the longitude, to make the Royal Charlotte or Louisa
IStioal, whichever is the weathermost, by running on its parallel of latitude ;
and as the currents appear to be influenced by the prevailing winds, vessels
sduuld bt; prepared to anticipate a set in the direction in which it is blowing,
tiie velocity of the current being proportionate to the force of the wind.

Having made either the Royal Churlotte or Lcjuisa Shoals, on passing
mid-channel between them, steer E. by N. 100 miles, aud then about N.E.
for lat. 8° N., long. 116° 15' E., when Balabac Peak will probably be seen
bearing about east-southerly, and making like a r.ither flat-topped island,
with a small peak rising in the centre ; when about 40 miles distant from the
island, the low hills may be seen on either side of the peak, having at first
the appearance of detached islands.

Having brought Balabac Peak to bear about E.S.E. at the above distance,
a N.N.E. f E. course should be steered, when the high land of Bulanhow
will soon be discernible, bearing about N.E. by E. f E. This course should
lead about 6 miles eastward of the reported Roger Breakers, 10 miles west-
ward of the elbow of the bank of soundings fronting Palawan Island, and
midway between the Ro_)al CapiHUi Shoal and the edge of the bank (the
most dangerous part of the channel). When Bulanhow Mountain bears fcj.E.
by E. I E. the vessel will be in line with it and the Royal Oiptain Shoal, and
in the narrowest part of the channel, which is 27f miles wide, and the high
land of Alantaleengaliau will then bear E. i S.

If the wind be well to the southward, and the weather thick, Balabac
Island may be approached nearer, in order to get well hold of the land, but
extreme caution sliould be taken not to go within 12 miles of it, as sound-
ings of 26 and 20 fathoms extend that distance off, in a westerly direction
from the peak, having shoal patches immediately inside them.

If the wind be to the westward, with thick cloudy weather, Balabac
Island should nut be approached nearer than 36 miles, for these winds
usually force a strong current tiirough the straits to the eastward, and when
off the S.W. end of PaLiwau, it is not unusual for them, particularly in
squalls, to veer to W.N.W., and sometimes N.W., blowing with great
violence, aud placing the vessel on a lee shore with respect to the shoals
inside the ed^e of the bank. It generally so happens, that about the time,
September and October, when vessels adopt the i'alawan route, this weather
prevails off the S.W. end of Palawan, rendering it uncertain and uiffivuit
to hit the narrowest part \>f the channel, owing to the laud being ob-
scured, especially if neither the Royal Charlotte nor the Louisa Shoal has
been made, aud the longitude corrected.

Uuder these circumstances, it is advisable to advance with caution, regu-

60 PASSAGES.

lating the speed of the vessel so as to be in the fairway, viz., lat. 8° N., long.
116° 15' E., for making the channel at daylight. Horsburgh recommends
lat. 8° 30' N., and long. 116° 30' E., but this may be running too close at
night, unless confident of the accuracy of the reckoning.

If not certain of the vessel's position, endeavour to get soundings on the
edge of the bank to the north-westward of Balabac Island, and the safest
part to approach for this purpose is that about the elbow, on the parallel of
8° 30° N., or immediately to the southward of it, for it is believed the portion
of the bank whicli is embraced by the bearings of Balabac Peak, S.E. by
E. ^ E. and S.S.E., comprising a distance of 25 miles, is free from danger.
If the peak be obscured, the same bearings of the body of the island will,
if taken with care, answer. Or should the North extreme of the island be
discernible (showing like a hillock, with a low double hill to the southward),
the part of no danger will be included within the lines of bearing of it, East
and S.S.E. | E.

During the period in which the Eoyalist was engaged upon this survey,
experience led to the belief that in the thickest weather the land is seldom
totally obscured for any length of time.

Having obtained soundings, which will be about 90 fathoms, if close to
the edge of the bank, and from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand, if inside, haul off to
the north-westward, to give the edge a berth of about 10 miles, then steer
the channel course N.N.E. f E. When Bulanhow Mountain bears eastward
of E. by N. ^ N., the elbow has been passed, and the bank then trends
N.E. by N. It is between the elbow and the parallel of 9° 15' N. (a distance
of 60 miles) on the East, and the Half Moon, Eoyal Captain, and Bombay
Shoals on the West, that the most dangerous part of the Passage lies.

When Montaleengahan Mountain bears S.E. ^ E., or the Pagoda Cliff,
(generally seen when the more elevated land is obscured), S.E. ^ S., the vessel
will be on the line of the Bombay Shoal, where the channel is 28 miles broad.

Having passed the Bombay Shoal, abreast of which the bank trends N.E.
^ N., steer a course parallel with its edge, preserving a distance of 8 or 12
miles from it, and 27 or 30 miles from the land, or nearer, if convenient, and
the peaks on Palawan are sufficiently distinct to get good cross bearings.
It is, however, not desirable to get too close, as the edge of the bank in
about the parallels of 9° 30' and 10° N., is not uniform in its outline, and
several rocky patches lie within a mile, and in some places only 3 cables*
lengths from the 100 fathoms line.

This N.E. A N. course, edging a little more to the northward when abreast
of Ulugan Bay, where the bank extends 28 miles from the shore, will take
a vessel through the passage clear of every known danger.

Vessels working through the Palawan Passage, having conformed to the
directions given for making the S.W. end of Palawan, should, in fine
weather, endeavour to make their inshore boards in the afternoon, for the

SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG. 61

8un then being astern of the vessel, the patches lying near the edge of the
bank will generally be distinguished from the mast-head in ample time to
tack off. In squally weather, also, during heavy rains, these patches have
been observed imparting a yellowish hue to the surface of the water.

It is almost needless to remind the seaman (when the land is obscured)
of the desirableness of getting hold of the edge of the bank before dark, in
order that he may have a good departure for the night ; and on making
his inshore board, it must also be borne in mind, that the probability of
coming suddenly into soundings is great, as the approach on this tack will
generally be at right angles to the edge of the bank. He should therefore
be prepared to go round immediately on getting indication of soundings.

Proceeding northerly from the Palawan Passage, it is customary to beat
up the West coast of Luzon to Piedra Point, and thence direct for Macao or
Hong Kong, passing leeward of the Pratas. But if bound to any of the
ports northward, much time might be saved by passing along the eastern
coast of Formosa, thereby avoiding the heavy labour, wear, and loss of time,
by the attempt to work against the monsoon along the coast of China, which
even a clipper sometimes fails in effecting.

In working along the Luzon coast, particularly about dawn or sunset,
less sea, and much lighter winds, and at times even land breezes will be ex-
perienced by hugging the coast by short boards ; but great caution should
be observed, particularly between Piedra Point and Cape Bojeador, as
several coastline dangers do not find a place in the charts.

The first strong gust of the monsoon will be experienced on clearing
Cape Bojeador, but this should not induce the navigator to stand further
westward than will enable him to make his eastern stretch to weather it,
when he will at once experience less wind. This generally is the case on all
lee shores backed by mountains, either resulting from obstruction, reaction,
or the effect probably, after sunset, of counteracting land winds. Among
the groups northward of Luzon there are no dangers which are not easily
avoided, and no continuous strong breezes will be experienced, at all com-
parable in force, or attended by high sea, similar to those which prevail
between Piedra Point and Hong Kong. On the contrary, good working
breezes, and at times light winds prevail, enabling a sailing vessel of mode-
rate speed to make the range of 6 degrees northing in 8 days. Typhoons
are likely to happen in both monsoons between the North coast of Luzon
and Formosa.

8.— HONG KONG TO SINGAPORE, ETC.

In North-east Monsoon. — Ships bound from China to Singapore, or to
the Straits of Gaspar and Banka, should in March and April adopt the main
route by the Macclesfield Bank, which is the most expeditious in thesa

62 PASSAGES.

months, keeping to the eastward on leaving the China Coast ; and also in
passing Pulo Sapatu they ought to borrow to the eastward towards the
fihoals, where the winds are more favourable in these months than farther
to the westward. In April, the Vansittart, by keeping about 3 degrees more
to the eastward than the Herefordshire, made as much progress in one day as
the latter did in ten.* At all other times, the inner route by the coast of
Cochin China seems preferable ; for it is the shorter, and the ease afforded
to ships by steering from the Grand Ladrone immediately before the wind,
when blowing strong at N.E., is a great advantage ; whereas, by the main
route, a S.S.E. course is shaped for the Macclesfield Bank, often bringing
the wind and sea before the beam, which strains a deeply-laden ship. Many
have strained so much, that, in order to gain upon the pumps, they were
forced to bear away for the inner ro)ite ; others, by persevering in the main
route, have laboured excessively, and some of them at last foundered with
their crews. Some of the ships which, after leaving China, have been
missing, have probably suffered from the same cause. Had those ships, on
leaving Canton River, steered S.S.W. h W. or S.S.W. I W., the direct
course for the inner route, they probably would not have strained in the
least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety.

Vessels may, according to circumstances, pass either to the eastward or
westward of the Catwick Islands and Pulo Ceicer de Mer, or thin^ugh any
of the channels between them ; but since the Rawson Shoal is known to
have no existence, it would seem advisable, in thick weather, to pass 20 or
30 miles eastward of Pulo Sapatu, especially at night : from thence, passing
westward of the Charlotte Bank and the Anamba Islands, steer to make
Pulo Aor.

Should the weather be thick, and a fresh breeze blowing, when near Pulo
Aor, round to under its lee, and wait a convenient time to bear up for the

* Captain Stephens says : — " Vessels leaving the coast of China or Manilla, and bound
towards Sunda Strait, in March, April, or in the early part of May, may expect a tedious
passage down the China Sea if proceeding by the old route which passes Pulo Sapatu, par-
ticularly if they do not sail before the 5th or 10th of April. Whereas, if the track be taken
alono- the coast of Luzon, down the Palawan Passage, along the coast of Borneo, past
Direction Island, round Soruetou, and through the Carimata Strait, passing close round the
North Watcher, and on for St. Nicholas Point on Java, they are likely to carry easterly
winds, with fine weather and a smooth sea, the whole distance, thus making a direct course,
and will avoid calms. The current will also be more favourable than otherwise until May
is well advanced. To prove the advantages of the eastern route, it may be stated, that in
April, 1861, two American ships sailed fram Fu-chau-fu; one proceeded by Pulo Sapatu on
the West side of the China Sea, the other by the Palawan Passage and Carimata Strait ; the
letter ship passed Anjer twenty days before the other. The Harkaway, on her passage in
Aonl and May, 1862, carried an easterly wind the whole way down, and had no occasion to
anchor."

SINGAPOEE TO GULF OF SIAM AND TO SAIGON. 63

strait.* The current between tliis island and the East point of Bintang sets
about S.S.E., by which it often happens that vessels leaving Pulo Aor steer
too much southerly, and are swept with the current and the ebb tide coming
out of the strait, so far to leeward of Bintang, that they have been obliged
to proceed round it, and come up through Rliio Strait,

In March, during the latter part of this munsoon, the winds are steady
from the eastward, the weather settled, and the current weak. In April the
prevailing winds are also from the eastward, and are much lighter and ac-
companied with calms and squally weather ; from the latter end of this mouth
to about the middle of May the monsoon gradually breaks up.
In South- West Moxsoox.— Captain Blake, of H.M.S. Lame, remarks: —
Although formerly considered impracticable, it is now a common practice
for ships to work down the China Sea at all periods of the S. W. monsoon.
After leaving Hong Kong, the usual course is to stand towards Hainan,
which will be often fetched without tacking, as the wind frec^uently blows
for days together from the S.E. or eastward in that part of the China Sea ;
from thence across the Gulf of Tong King to the Cochin China coast.
Land and sea breezes and smooth water generally prevail close to that coast,
for which reason it is usual to work down as close to the shore as possible,
taking advantage of every slant of wind, but being careful not to get too far
off the land. It is sometimes possible to get as far to the southward as Cape
Padaran in this way, but generally after passing Cape Yarela the monsoon
is found blowing very fresh, with frequent hard squalls out of the Gulf of
Siam, rendering it impassible for a ship to do much to windward. From
Cape Varela, or from Cape Padaran, if a vessel has been able to fetch it,
stretch away to the southward — making a tack, if necessary, to weather the
Arest London or other shoals — till the coast of Borneo is reached, along
which work, and pass out through any of the South Natuna channels. Stand
across to Singapore, keeping well to the southward before closing Bintang,
to be sure of your landfall, as the currents run very strong, sometimes 2
miles an hour to the northward.

9.-SINGAP0RE TO GULF OF SIAM AND TO SAIGON.
In Noeth-East Monsoon. — Sailing vessels bound from Singapore to the
Gulf of Siam in the N.E. monsoon generally pass eastward of the Natuna
Islands. Smart sailing vessels proceed between the Anamba and Natuna
Islands, and endeavour to make Pulo Obi ; they then steer for Pulo Dama,
if bound to Kamput, in the Gulf of Siam ; or outside Pulo Panjang and Pulo
Way, direct for Cape Liant, if bound to Bangkok. In February and March
it frequently happens that vessels fall in with an easterly wind off Pulo Aor
that takes them right up to Pulo Obi. — Captain Loftus.

* Since the edtablishment of the Horsburg light on Pedra Branca, there is really now
no difiBculty in making Singapore Strait at any time, with proper attention.

64 PASSAGES.

The directions given on page 55 for proceeding from Singapore to Hong
Kong apply also to vessels bound to the Gulf of Siam or to Saigon, until
they have arrived to the eastward of the Natuna Islands, either by passing
between the Great and South Natuna, or by the Koti Passage, when—

Jf hound to the Gulf of Siam, proceed to the north-eastward to about long.
11 Tor 112° E., which can easily be done, as the wind here is invariably
from North to N.N.W. as far as the meridian of Cape Sirik, when it gene-
rally hauls to the north-eastward ; then with a full sail stand on the star-
board tack towards Pulo Obi. Little or no current will be experienced until
lat. 6° or 7° N. is gained ; when it will be found setting strong to the S.W.,
governed considerably by the prevailing winds.

In April and May the best passages to the gulf are made by keeping the
Malay coast aboard ; but expect squalls, calms, and rain. The current will
also begin to set weakly to the N.E. — Lieut. J. Richards, R.N.

If bound to Saigon, proceed to the north-eastward to about 112° E., when
stand over with a full sail on the starboard tack, to make Cape Tiwane.
From lat. 7° N. until the mouths of the Cambodia Rivers bear West, distant
about 70 miles, strong currents will be found setting to the S.W., governed
considerably by the prevailing winds, for when strong gales blow in the
early part of this monsoon, the south-westerly current is stronger, and often
runs 3 knots an hour. The tides are regular, and set pretty strong in-shore
on the Cochin China coast during both monsoons.

In the latter part of March and April an easterly wind is often found to
the eastward of the Anamba Islands, that will take a ship to the Brothers,
W. by S., about 24 miles from Pulo Condore ; and afterwards she may work
up to Cape St. James inside that island, keeping close to the Cambodia coast,
which is very low, and can seldom be seen at night.

After opening out the mouths of the Cambodia Eivers, strong ebbs will be
found setting to windward, greatly assisting ships on tlie in-shore tack ; but
they should not stand near these mouths during the flood tide, and on no
account shoal the water to less than 12 fathoms in the night. The lead
should never be neglected when standing towards this low land, which may
be seen about 10 miles oflP on a fine clear day.

N.E. and N.N.E. gales often blow in the latitude of Pulo Sapatu, and
between it and the Cochin China coast, in December, January, February,
and sometimes March. They continue for two or three days with a heavy
sea and strong current. A gradual rise in the barometer is a sure indication
of one of these gales ; while at their height the mercury fluctuates about ,'o*o of
an inch during the twenty-four hours, and commences falling before the gale
is over, the sky being generally thick and hazy throughout.

After sighting the land, the vessel should gain the meridian of Cape St.
James in one of these gales, bear up for Pulo Condore, and anchor either iu

GULF OF SIAM TO SINGAPOEE. 65

the Great Bay, or in Pulo Condore Harbour, where good shelter will be
found ; otherwise the vessel will be drifted to leeward of that island, and
require several days to beat back to regain her former position.

In Sotjth-west Monsoon. — In this monsoon the winds prevail between
S.E. and "West in Singapore Strait, and vessels will have no difficulty in
sailing through to the eastward.

If bound to the Gulf of Siam, having cleared Singapore Strait, shape a
course to make the Redang Islands ; and from thence keep the western shore
of the gulf aboard, passing inside Puly Lozin and Koh Krah.

If bound to Saigon, steer to pass to the westward of Pulo Condore, mak-
ing allowance for a current setting out of the Gulf of Siam, whilst crossing
the entrance of that gulf. When the body of Pulo Condore bears about
South, steer North, or N. ^ W., if an easterly current prevail ; which will
soon bring the vessel on the edge of the bank that fronts the mouths of the
Cambodia Rivers, and extends to the entrance of Saigon Eiver, Steer then
northward along the edge of the bank, keeping in 8 to 12 fathoms ; if the
water shoalens under 7 or 8 fathoms, haul to the eastward, and it will imme-
diately deepen, the soundings being regular on the edge of the bank.

Directions for making the land about Cape St. James, and for proceeding
up the Donnai Eiver to Saigon, are given hereafter.

10.— GULF OF SIAM TO SINGAPOEE.

In North-east Monsoon. — From Bangkok the passage down the gulf will
frequently be shortened in the N.E. monsoon, by sighting the Kusrovie
Eock, and passing between the Tanqualah group and Koh Tron. Keep
well to the westward of Pulo Panjang, and if bound to Singapore, the
passage will be made quicker by hauling well out into the China Sea ;
passing about 20 miles outside Pulo Brala, outside Pulo Aor, and then
steering for Barbukit Hill, so as to allow for the southerly current setting
across the strait.

Approaching Pulo Timoan at night or in thick weather, a good lookout
should be kept, and allowance made for the current setting to the south-
westward, as vessels have several times found themselves close to the North
end of that island when their reckoning has placed them well to the east-
ward of it.

In South-west Monsoon. — From Bangkok to Singapore keep the western
shore of the gulf aboard, passing inside the Eedang Islands, Pulo Kapas,
and Pulo Brala. Below Pulo Kapas, everything depends on keeping in
shore out of the current, and taking advantage of the land and sea breezes.
{Lieut. J. Richards, E.N., 1858.)

I. A. K

66 PASSAGES.

11.— SAIGON TO SINGAPORE.

In N0ETH-EA.8T Monsoon. — From Cape St. James shape a course to pass
to the eastward of Pulo Condore, and from thence direct to make Pulo Aor.
From Pulo Aor to Singapore proceed according to directions previously
given.

In South-west Monsoon. — Many good passages have been made by
keeping the Cambodia coast aboard as far as the Brothers or Pulo Obi, and
then crossing the Gulf of Siam with a strong north-westerly wind until the
Malay coast is reached, and afterwards working with the tides, keeping
close inshore, by passing inside of Timoan group, Siribuat, and Pulo Sibu,*
and thence to the Strait of Singapore, taking advantage of the regular tides
and the land and sea breezes which prevail during settled weather in this
monsoon.

This route is generally adopted by ships from Siam, and sometimes from
Saigon ; but the passage to the eastward of the Great Natuna is considered
the best, particularly for large vessels.

Vessels leaving Cape St. James should take every advantage of the North
and N.E. winds, which frequently blow at night, and in some parts of the
day, within a short distance of the coast, by running to the south-westward,
until the regular monsoon breaks them ofiP to the S.E. These- local winds
often carry ships 40 or 50 miles to the south-westward of Pulo Condore
without any interruption.

While standing over to the S.E. the full strength of the north-easterly
current will be met with about the Charlotte Bank ; it gradually decreases
and becomes slightly favourable when the Great Natuna is brought to bear
S.W. Hereabouts S.E. and easterly winds will generally be met with, and
smart sailing ships frequently pass through the channel between Subi and
Low Island, and fetch direct into Singapore Strait.

Strong westerly winds with rain frequently happen during the early part
of this monsoon, and from this cause or by fetching 2° or 3° to the eastward
of the Great Natuna with scant southerly winds alter leaving the Cambodia
coast, dull sailing vessels have often made the northern part of Borneo
about the meridian of Cape Sirik. When this is the case, make for the Api
passage, keeping the N.W. coast of Borneo aboard from Tahjong Datu
until the Boerong Islands are reached. f This will be accomplished without

* The inside chanDel, extending from Pulo Sibu to Siribuat, and formed by a chain of
islands and rocks parallel to the main, is a good and safe one, having but few hidden
dangers, and good anchorage all the way through.

t Many vessels, through leaving the coast of Borneo too soon, have fetched no higher
than Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan.

EASTERN EOUTE TO SINGAPORE. 67

difficulty, for strong land and sea breezes prevail, and the current is weaker
near the coast.

The current in the offing runs strong to the northward and through the
Api passage. Ships coming through this passage should never shoal their
water to less than 12 or 14 fathoms between Tanjong Datu and Tanjong Api,
and never pass them nearer than 2 or 3 miles, but should be ready to anchor
in it off any other part of the coast, as the tides are greatly influenced by the
currents, which often change without warning.

Leaving the Boerong Islands, pass either northward or southward of the
Tambelan group. Should the wind be scant from the S.W. after leaving
these islands, steer as high as possible, and endeavour to make Pulo Pan-
tang, off the East side of Bintang Island. ( Captain Loftus.)

EASTERN PASSAGES.

12.— EASTERN ROUTE TO SINGAPORE.

Captain Mc Konzie gives the following remarks on this passage :— The
passage to Singapore, &c., through Balli and Lombok, and the Eastern
Straits, late in the S.E. monsoon is often tediuus, as the S.E. currents begin
to prevail in October, and light winds, which frequently haul to West and
N.W. after passing Pulo Mancap After leaving the Straits of Lombok or
Balli, easterly winds will carry you past Pulo Mancap. The best track thus
far will be between Pondy and Gallon (safe in the night time), and then to
the"southward of Lubeck, going well to the westward of the Mancap Shoal,
and just giving the Discovery Bank, and other dangers on the West side of
the passage, a fair berth. Steer for the Eastern Montaran Island, passing
between it and the next westerly one, the passage is quite clear ; steer then
to the W.N.W. along the coast of Billiton. It is best not to go inside the
Montaran Shoals, as the wind there at that time of year is seldom more
westerly than S. W., consequently a vessel will lie up high enough, from the
East Montaran, to pass South of Pulo Dogan, Taya, and Sinkep (if possible
to weather the last), if not the Straits of Dasse are quite safe, and quickly
passed through with the tide.

After passing through either of these straits, run for Singapore by Durion
Straits.

As to beating down the Carimata against the S.E. monsoon, I believe the
best plan is to go through Rhio Strait, then stretch over to the Borneo coast,
and work down it close in, anchoring for the tides. From Rendezvous Island
make for the Java shore, and if bound easterly work along it. This passage
is easily made to Sourabaya in tilteen to twenty days. But it is beating up

68 PASSAGES.

from Balli, Lombok, or the East end of Java, in the West monsoon, that
requires some remarks ; and for vessels usually deeply loaded with rice, it is
a difficult thing to beat up against a strong monsoon and lee current. Two
routes have been generally adopted, one to the southward of Java, and the
other by beating up the Carimata. By both these routes I have known some
vessels get to Singapore in forty days, and some have been fifty, sixty, and
eighty days. I should say sixty was an average passage from Balli or Lom-
bok ; and the vessel much strained, sails worn, and cargo probably more or
less damaged. I should, therefore, confidently recommend an eastern route,
which I have no doubt has been by this time followed by the commanders of
Balli vessels, at my suggestion. This is, to go through the Molucca, or even
Gillolo passage, and then with the North and N.E. winds through the straits
of Balabac into the China Sea, and thence to Singapore. A fair wind would
be secured all the way, and the passage made in twenty-five or thirty days,
with ease and comfort to the vessel. This may seem a very circuitous track,
yet I am certain that it is the quickest way to Singapore. And any one wha
had once tried either of the other routes would find the difference, when
comparing with the eastern route, the harassing work from Pulo to Singa-
pore, and the strong rush of current from the China Sea that begins so early
as October before the N.E. monsoon has set in.

13.— EASTERN EOUTES TO CHINA, ETC.

The passages hitherto described are those which are entered by the Straits
of Malacca or Sunda, the two principal highways into the China Sea. But
during the adverse N.E. monsoon it may be thought preferable to take one
of the channels eadward of Borneo, and thus avoid the wear and tear of
beating up the China Sea in the teeth of the monsoon. In this case, the
former universal practice was to follow one of the eastern straits, passing to
the East of Borneo, and taking the Strait of Macassar, which leads into the
Celebes Sea, from thence, according to circumstances, from this sea proceed-
ing North, and passing East or West of the Philippines. A vessel can also,
in this season, take Pitts passage to the East of the Celebes, crossing the
Moluccas, and entering the Pacific Ocean by Pitts Strait, Dampier Passage,
or that of Gilolo, then keep to the eastward of the Philippines, entering the
China Sea by the Strait of Formosa.

Thus, in a general way, it may be taken as a rule, that when the mon-
soon is favourable in the China Sea, ships must pass to the West of Borneo,
but with a contrary monsoon must pass to the East of that island.

October and November are considered the two most favourable months in
which to pass the Strait of Macassar quickly. This is the first of the eastern
routes. In the other months it is more advantageous to take Pitts Passage^
especially from the middle of December to February.

EASTERN ROUTES TO CHINA. 69

On arriving at the eastern straits in the latter part of January or in
February, the Strait of Lombok is generally taken, and generally in passing
it, cross the channel East of Banditti Island. You can also round this
island to the West, but the channel is very narrow. The channel between
Lombok and Banditti Island is generally preferred, and then the East coast
of this strait is soon reached. From there ships pass to the strait of Ma-
cassar, by passing to the East of Hastings Island and Little Pulo Laut, then
the coast of Celebes must be passed in order to enter the strait of Macassar.
If instead of taking Lombok Strait that of Balli is chosen, with the intention
of passing in the Macassar Strait, ships return to the North by passing by
the channel between Pondy and Gallon Islands ; then round to the West at
a good distance from the islands and banks of Kalkoon, and pass the little
island of Pulo Laut on whichever side seems best.

On coming from Alias Strait a vessel would steer for Hastings Island,
and pass East of it, the same as if coming from Lombok Strait. On arriving
from Sapy Strait during the months of September and October, a ship
would, according to the prevailing winds, pass to the East or West of the
Postilions, and proceed to the North between Tanakeke and the Tongu
Islands ; then pass at a good distance the isles and banks of Spermonde,
which are N.W. of Macassar Bay, and enter the strait and keep on the
Celebes coast to pass through. A vessel going out of the strait in March or
April off Cape Donda must cross the sea of Celebes, and steer for the ex-
treme East of Bassilan.

A vessel making for the channel between Basilan and the West point of
Mindanao, must take care to keep well to the East, if the winds will permit,
so that she may not be drifted among the Sooloo Islands by the westerly
currents. If she gets to leeward of them, she will find good channels be-
tween the isles situated to the West of Sooloo ; and then crossing the sea of
Mindoro, keep near the coast of the Philippines (Mindanao, Negros, Panay,
Mindoro, and Luzon). At the opening of the channel between Mindanao
and Negros, and also between Panay and Mindoro, strong winds from the
N.E. and westerly currents are generally encountered. A ship must guard
against these currents in passing from one island to another, so as not to be
set to leeward.

If a ship leaves Basilan Strait with steady winds from S.W. and South,
she may steer directly for Point Naso, or keep rather to the East of its
meridian ; but if the winds are variable or uncertain, she should keep close
to Mindanao till Point Galera is reached, and then cross to Naso Point, tak-
ing care to keep near Negro Point in crossing from one point to another.

From Naso Point steer North along the coast West of the island of Panay,
taking every precaution against the dangers which lie to the West of this
coast. Then passing the islands lying near the S.W. point of Mindoro,
she will enter the channel either East or West of them and the Apo Bank.

70 PASSAGES.

With easterly winds in entering the eastern channel, keep 2 or 3 leagues
from the coast of Mindoro ; but with a westerly wind, take care not to go
more than 9 or 10 milts from the coast until you are North of the Apo
Banks, thus clearing the Strait of Mindoro ; and after having doubled the
promontory ot Calavite, and passed Luban and Goat Island, you must fol-
low the coast of Luzon as far as Cape Bolinao. Having reached this cape,
you may be pretty sure of passing East of the Pratas and reaching Macao.
However, it is more prudent to steer North as far as Cape Bojeador before
crossing for the coast of China. Also, at this season, a vessel may enter the
Pacific Ocean by passing South of Mindanao, when the sea of Celebes has
been reached. For which, if the wind permit, steer direct for the Serangani
Islands, passing between them and Mindanao, or else South of the former.
From thence pass between the Meangis and Tulour Isles, in order to double
the North cape of Morty Island with the wind at N.E. If any difficulty arise
in taking this route, the channel between the Tulour and Sangir Islands
may be adopted.

But after having proceeded from the Strait of Macassar, and passed be-
tween Siao and Tagolanda, or one of the neighbouring Sangir Channels,
steer to the East, so as to double the North cape of Morty. For the same
reason, ships that have passed South of Siao must run N.E. if the wind will
permit. When she has entered the Pacific Ocean from the Philippine
Islands, passing to the West of the Pelew Islands, afterwards sail towards
the North, so as to enter the China Sea by the Formosa Channel.

Pitt Channel, which leads, as has been already stated, into the Pacific
Ocean by either Pitt, Gilolo, or Dampier Channels, is preferable to the
Macassar Strait during the months of December, January, and February.
On arriving, at this season, at the Strait of Sunda, on the way from Bengal,
or at the eastern straits on the way from the Cape of Good Hope, I would
adopt this channel when bound to China. This is the Second Eastern Route.

If, as often happens, a ship, in coming from the Bay of Bengal, passes
through the Strait of Sunda instead of along the South coast of Java, in
going out of this strait she should pass North of the Thousand Isles, and then
steer to the East, leaving the Watcher Isle to the North, on her way to the
Strait of Salayer. In case of touching at Batavia, after having passed Edam
Island on leaving this port, she would steer so as to leave Burakin Island to
the North, and after having passed it, would steer for Salayer Strait. With
a N.W. wind the best course through this strait is to pass South of Mansfield
Shoal. At night, or when the wind is not steady, it is better to keep to the
North of it, along the coast of Celebes. From the Strait of Salayer make
for Bouton Strait ; or, if the wind is West, it would be better to pass South
of this island, keeping the S.W. point well on board, with the view of
avoiding the rocks off it to the southward of Tonkan Bessy. You then pass
along the eastern coast of Bouton Island, and having reached the N.E. end

EASTEEN EOUTES TO CHINA. 71

of it, if the wind is fresh from N.W., steer North from the island of Waigiou,
and from thence for the Xulla Bessy Island. This is an indispensable pre-
caution for slow sailing vessels in December and the early part of January,
because about this period the wind becomes variable, and veers to N.N.W.,
causing strong southern currents. The winds and currents in Eitt Channel
are very variable, and it may be crossed almost anywhere. It is prudent,
however, when northerly winds prevail, to keep the weather shore.

In the case of a vessel falling to leeward of the N."W. point of Bouro
Island, every exertion should be made to pass it quickly. Instead of work-
ing to windward to do this, it is better to run southward of the island, and
pass into Eitt Strait to the eastward of it. During the N.W. monsoon
vessels which leave Amboyna make to the northward along the East coast
of Bouro, where the wind is variable, and squalls come from off the land.
Strong currents are rare, and are sometimes favourable for the run north-
wards ; while beyond Manipa and the channel which separates it from
Ceram, southerly currents prevail in this season. Having reached Eitt
Eassage by the foregoing routes, a vessel will be guided by the directions
hereafter given.

A vessel wishing to pas8 through. Eitt Strait should take either the strait of
Bally, Lombok, Allass, or Sapy, and make for that of Salayer on leaving
them ; crossing the eastern part of the Java Sea, afterwards steer for Eitt
Channel. In coming from the Cape of Good Hope the Ombay Strait is pre-
ferable, it being the most direct and more open than those farther West, and
the winds being generally less variable there.

In making for Ombay Strait, pass either North or South of Sandalwood
Island ; but it is better to pass South of it, and then between Ombay and
Timor, and after having steered to the eastern extremity of the first of these
islands, then steer North, keeping to windward, so as to pass West of Bouro
Island ; but if this is impracticable, pass to eastward of this island, between
it and Manipa, and then take the Eitt Channel. After having entered Eitt
Channel steer East, passing between Xulla Bessy and Bouro ; but in case
you should pass to the West of this island, if no current be found, then steer
direct through Eitt Strait ; if the current sets northward, keep off the islands
which border the northern side of this strait.

When near the meridian of the East point of Oby Major, and wishing to
take Dampier Strait, keep on to eastward. This strait seems favourable
for good sailing vessels, especially in January and February, when N.E.
winds are getting more easterly. In March, when the N.E. winds become
weaker, the Strait of Gilolo is preferable for entering the Facific Ocean.

This last strait is wider, and a ship can work both night and day in it,
and the currents are seldom very strong. On leaving Eitt Strait, and also
that of Dampier, you must take great care not to be drifted on the North
coast of New Guinea, and should therefore contrive to round Eoint Eigot

72 PASSAGES.

close, looking out sharply for Buccleugh Bank, whicli lies to the East of the
East coast of Waigiou.

Pitt Strait should only be taken when it cannot be avoided. In this case,
a ship should keep in the middle of the channel to avoid being set to either
side by the tides, and should therefore make short boards, not approaching
either shore, and should try to make Jackson Isle, and pass 5 miles to north-
ward of it. When a ship has passed the reef, which lies to the northern
extremity of Batanta Island, she must steer northward for Point Pigot.

To enter Dampier Strait on passing the meridian of the East point of Oby
Major, steer East, to pass between the Canary Isles and Pulo Popo. Some-
times vessels pass between the Bou Islands and Pulo Popo. This last chan-
nel is advantageous with the winds from the N.W., and then run for Fisher
Island and Mabo Cape, and from thence pass between Pigeon Island and
Foul Island, always keeping a good lookout for the dangers which exist on
the North shore of Dampier Strait. In coming out keep nearer Pigeon Isle
than Foul Island, and steer so as to sight Pigot Point, so as not to be horsed
on to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly swell which prevails in the
oflB.ng. Vessels should always carefully avoid the Buccleugh Bank. The
tides are very strong in Dampier Strait, and the currents very irregular,
their rate varying from 1 to 5 miles an hour. In the height of the N.W.
monsoon, in the narrow part of the strait between Pigeon Isle and Foul Isle,
the ebb at the time of the spring tides runs 4 or 5 knots to the E.N.E. for
six or eight hours, and between 1 and 3 miles in neaps. The flood sets S.W.
for three or four hours, but is weak. During the height of the S.E. monsoon
in this part, the flood runs to the West for eight or ten hoiu-s at a time, and
turns successively to W.S.W., S.W., and S.W. by S. ; it then attains its
greatest velocity, which at springs sometimes exceeds 5 miles an hour, and
is reduced to 4 miles an hour in neaps. The ebb at this season runs to
E.N.E. or N.E. ; it is not strong or of long duration.

On leaving Dampier Strait, when a ship is in the Pacific Ocean, she
should run down her easting quickly, keeping in a low latitude, or between
the parallels of 1° 30' and 3° N., which she can easily do. Sometimes even
in December and January easterly currents are frequently found in that
track, being that eastward counter current on the equator which has been
spoken of in the chapter on this subject. She will thus be enabled con-
veniently to pass either East or West of the Pelew Isles, but this depends
up'in the sailing powers of the ship, and the strength of the N.E. monsoon.
A vessel must not go too far to eastward, for fear of falling in with the
islands of Goulou and Guap, near which, in November and December, heavy
squalls from the westward are encountered. From the Pelew Islands, steer
for the Bashee Islands, allowing for the westerly currents, which run at a
rate of 12 or 15 miles a day. From December to the middle of February it
is most prudent to pass to the East of the Pelew Islands.

EASTERN ROUTES. 73

Should a vessel leave Dampier Strait towards the end of the N.E. mon-
soon, she should not run far East into the Pacitic Ocean. At the end of
February and in March ships can pass to the West of the Pelew Islands, as
the winds at this time often vary and shift to E.N.E. When the North part
of Luzon is reached the China Sea can be entered by either of the great
routes, or the channel of Balingtang, or any of the good channels formed by
the Bashee Islands and the Babuyanes. However, with the winds from the
N.E., and at the commencement of the monsoon, it is necessary to pass to
the North of the Bashee Islands, and either North or South of the Cambrian
and Gadd Recks. The South point of Formosa is thus approached, and it
is best with daylight and the weather fine to pass between this point and
the Vele Rete Rock. During the night, or in bad weather, if prevented
from taking this route, a vessel should pass to the North of the Bashee
Islands, keeping close to them. Whichever may be the channel by which
she enters the China sea, a course should be adopted to sight, if possible,
Ty-Sing- Cham, or Pedro Blanco, and enter the Canton River by the Lema
Channel.

The Strait of Gilolo, the third which connects Pitt Passage with the
Pacific Ocean, is divided into two parts by the island of Geby, and the part
between this island and that of Gilolo takes the name of Gilolo Strait. That
part between Geby and Waigiou has been called the Bougainville Strait, as
that ofiicer passed through it in 1772. All the channels leading from Pitt
Channel to the Strait of Gilolo are free from danger ; but during the N.W.
monsoon that between Pulo Gass and Kakik Island is preferable, as being
the widest ; for the other broad channel between Pulo Pisang and the Bou
Islands is too much to leeward at this season. To enter the Gilolo Strait,
passing, as we have already said, between Pulo Gass and Kakik, sail closely
roimd the southern point of the first of these islands, so as not to get to the
eastward of the channel by the current which often prevails there. After
having passed Pulo Gass to eastward or westward, according to the channel
taken, continue on between Cape Tabo and Geby Island ; and if at night,
give a good berth to the Fairway Bank and Widda Island ; however, it is
prudent, if the wind is light, to keep as close as possible to the islands on
the West coast of the strait, on account of the N.E. and easterly currents.
Should the winds be contrary, no time should be lost in trying to pass North
of Geby ; afterwards, passing South between this island and Gagy, and
entering the Pacific by one of the channels near Syang. However, when it
can be done, the West channel between the coast of Gilolo and the Shampi
Isles, or one of those comprised between these islands and Syang is prefer-
able, as with a northerly wind a ship would be able to pass to windward of
the Aiou and Asia Islands. Should there be any difficulty in passing to the
West of Asia Isles, the channel, which is formed by them and Aiou, can be

I. A. I.

74 . PASSAGES.

adopted, or even between this latter and the North coast of Waigiou.
Having gained the Pacific Ocean, a vessel should endeavour, as soon as
possible, to make her easting in the zone comprised between the parallels of
1° 30' and 3° N., as southerly and S.E. currents are found there, and she
must not pass North of the parallel 3° N., and she will thus attain the latter
part of the route which we have previously indicated from Dampier Strait to
the Ciiina Sea.

14.— CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC.

The foregoiug remarks refer chiefly to those routes through the Archi-
pelago which lead to the different por';s for vessels bound from Europe or
India. The reverse, or homeward voyage, is generally subject to the same
influences, and requires the same consideration, in reference to the seasons,
that is called for in the outward voyage.

As a first principle it may be stated that a vessel bound to an Atlantic
port should endeavour to gain the S.E. trade wind as soon as possible, by
■which she may gain the coast of Africa, Mauritius, or Madagascar, and
thence proceed roiind the Cape of Good Hope. This portion of the subject
and that relating to the passage from the Strait of Sunda to Aden is detailed
in our Indian Ocean Directory, pages 162 — 166 and 201 — 202.

A vessel bound to the Bay of Bengal should take the readiest course for
the straits of Singapore and Malacca, and thence as directed in the Indian
Ocean Directory, pages 179, 184, &c.

These remarks refer to both monsoons. The best way of reaching the
Strait of Malacca, or the Southern Indian Ocean, necessarily requires a
difi'erent route in the opposite seasons. For the China Sea and the Strait of
Sunda this reverse voyage has been considered in former pages ; but a few
remarks from Capt. Kerhallet may be here appended.

When a ship leaves China during the N.E. monsoon for Europe or India,
she should make for the Straits of Banka and Gaspar, or for that of Singa-
pore. In March and April the outer route is the quickest by the Macclesfield
Bank. She ought, during these two months, to keep out to sea as far as the
latitude of Pulo Sapata, or take the route proposed by Capt. Stephens down
the West coast of Luzon, Palawan, and Borneo, as described in a foot-note
on p. 62. Some useful remarks by Capt. Polaek will also be found on p. 86.

On the contrary, during the other months than March and April, a vessel
should take the inner channel, which is comprised between Hainan and the
Paracel Islands, when she would without difficulty reach the Straits of Sin-
gapore, Banka, and Gaspar. From these two latter a course should be
steered for the strait of Sunda. On leaving this strait the parallel of 10° N.
should be crossed in 100° E. longitude, and then shape a direct course for
the South point of Madagascar, as is described in the Directions for the
Indian Ocean. This route crosses the area of the course of hurricanes ; con-
sequently they are often encountered by vessels from the eastern seas.

CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC. 75

The In'xer Route is the most direct for reaching the straits leading from
the China Sea ; it has also this advantage, that vessels have the wind aft as
soon as the Great Ladrone has been passed. A ship taking this route should
steer from the Great Ladrone, so as to pass near the islands of Taya and
Paracels at a convenient distance to the West. It is estimated that the
current sets westward at the rate of 15 or 20 miles a day, for the currents
are strong near the coast of China, although it may not be the case out at
sea. If it should be observed that the ship is drifted much towards the
West, she must shape her course to allow for it, until she has reached the
parallel of 17° W., and entered the channel between the Paracels and Cochin
China. Having reached the parallel indicated, and the meridian of 106°, a
course should be steered so as to sight Cape Yarela, or the Pagoda. With
clear weather and an E.N.E. or N.E. wind, a ship may sight Pulo Canton
(also called Callao Kay) or the coast situated South of this island, and then
keep a moderate distance from the shore ; if the weather be cloudy, and the
wind has a tendency to become easterly, it would be more prudent not to
approach the coast till she is in the latitude of Cape Varela, nor enter the
Bay of Phouyin to the North of this cape.

In case the conical mountain be visible on the North shore of this bay, it
will indicate the position of the cape, for as night approaches, the pagoda on
the height, which commands it, is obscured by clouds. Having passed to
the South of the parallel of 15° N., it will be found that the current sets
southward near the land; for between 14° 30' and 11° 30' it often sets at the
rate of 40, 50, and even 60 miles a day ; but it is very variable. It is indis-
pensable to make for Cape Varela when land has not been seen to the North
of this point, from whence the coast may be kept at a distance of 12 or 15
miles. When a ship is East of Cape Varela, distant about 4 or 5 miles, she
can steer along the shore by day ; but at night must be careful to avoid
Pyramid Isle, and those near to it. If the night be fine, she can sight these
islands, as they may be made out at a few miles distant. Water Islands
should then be steered for, which are 21 miles to the southward, and can
also be seen. When these islands are reached, if the land is more than 12
miles off, it will be necessary to approach it, to sight the mountain of False
Cape Varela, which can be distinguished among the high lands of the coast
by its elevation and gentle slope towards the sea.

In order to keep inshore and pass to the West of the Dutchman Bank, a
vessel should cross Padaran Bay as soon as she is abreast of the high lands
of Cape Varela. This is necessary, because the currents in this part take a
S.S.E. direction, and it is very difficult for ships out at sea to approach this
coast. When a vessel is in a good position for crossing the bay, the sound-
ings will be found to be 40 and 50 fathoms. Then, during the night, Cape
Padaran should be made on the starboard bow. On recognizing this cape,
great care should be taken, as it is difficult to distinguish it from the high

7fi PASSAGES.

lands in the bay. On having sighted Cape Padaran, it may be passed at
about 3 or 6 miles ; and Pulo Ceicir may be doubled at the same distance on
keeping this island to the West. In case ships are only 1 or 2 miles from the
cape, a course should be steered to pass at a convenient distance from Pulo
Ceicir. When this island is doubled in the day, at 4, 6, or 6 miles to sea-
ward, it should be brought to bear N.N.E. ^ N. before being lost sight of
from the deck, and then steering 18 or 21 miles between W.S.W. and S.W.
by W., as most convenient, will pass West of Dutchman Bank, when a
South course may be steered for Pulo Aor.

This route is not dangerous when the night is clear enough to admit of
distinguishing the cavern of Padaran. In this case, when a ship is 3, 4, or
5 miles from the cape, she must take the most convenient route till she sights
the Cavern ; and when it bears N. by E.,,she will be off Pulo Ceicir. If
in this case soundings are found at 11 or 20 fathoms, she should stand off
from it a little, because the island is too low to be seen at night, and in thia
part of the channel the soundings are too irregular to serve as a guide.
The Cavern bearing N. 16° E., Pulo Ceii ir is in the same direction ; and by
running 18 or 20 miles nearer between W.S.W. and S.W. by W., Dutch-
man Bank may be passed on the West, and then steer for Pulo Aor. If
the night should be dark when near Padaran, and the Cavern not to be
distinguished, the vessel must be kept between South and West till she is
about 12 or 13 leagues from the cape, and in this case it is best not to ap-
proach the coast or Pulo Ceicir with less than 6 fathoms of water, and
Dutchman Bank should not be approached in less than 18 or 20 fathoms.
Between the western edge of this bank and the eastern edge of Britto Shoal,
which is nearest to it, there is a distance of 14 or 15 leagues, between which
there is a large channel, which may be taken in the night. A ship should
keep in soundings of 15 or 16 fathoms, until she is 5 or 6 leagues more to
the South of Pulo Ceicir ; and when she is 13 leagues to the S.W. of Cape
Padaran it will be best to run again between the South and West to the dis-
tance of 2 or 3 leagues, so as to give a wide berth to the Holland Bank. A
vessel should not take more than 20 fathoms depth, till she has passed thia
bank, nor less than 16 fathoms when she is near Britto Bank, if she is a
little to the West.

In taking the route between these two banks the soundings will be found
to vary between 10 and 11 fathoms; and when the western part of the
Holland Bank is passed a vessel should keep in 10 or 11 fathoms, and steer
towards Pulo Aor. The route between Pulo Ceicer and Holland Bank cannot
be taken in the night, except by captains who are well acquainted with these
parts, consequently, often while waiting for days, a vessel is obliged to
lay off Cape Varela. Besides the loss of time which is thus occasioned, a
ship has to contend with a heavy sea, when the breeze is strong ; and for
this reason mariners generally preter passing through the passage outside

CHINA TO THE BAY OF BENGAL, ETC. 77

Pulo Ceicir and Pulo Sapata. When a vessel finds herself near Ealse Cape
Varela at nightfall, with a wind too strong to haul up to, or bad weather,
and not wishing on account of the darkness to pass between Holland Bank
and Pulo Cecir de Mer, she should steer a course to the East of Pulo Cecir
de Mer, and then outside Pulo Sapata the next morning. She may run far
enough out to sea if the weather is gloomy, after passing a good distance
from these isles. When the wind is strong the currents run to the S. W. and
W.S.W. with great rapidity, and sometimes towards Pulo Sapata. A ship
would then be obliged to pass the night in the narrow channel between this
island and the Little Catwik.

In the day, in fine weather, a ship may keep as near as she likes to Pulo
Cecir de Mer, and pass between Pulo Sapata and the Large Catwik ; she
can also pass between the two Catwicks, only it must be remembered that
the Paix Rock is in the channel formed by these two islands ; from there
she may steer direct for Pulo Aor. On arriving at Pulo Timoan during a
fog, you must keep in soundings of 28 or 30 fathoms, afterwards passing
East of this island for Pulo Aor. As these islands are often concealed in the
fog, great care must be taken to avoid them, and attend to the reckoning,
especially during the night. Near the Anambas, and to the North of them,
a vessel generally has 36 to 44 fathoms. When she is between 5° 30' and
6° N., these depths decrease in the western part of the channel, and 26 to
28 fathoms on the meridian of Pulo Timoan. Having passed East of Pulo
Aor at a distance of 2, 3, or 4 leagues, bound to the Strait of Banca,
steer to the eastward of South, according to the wind and prevailing
currents, and pass outside the Geldria Bank, which she may avoid by keep-
ing in a depth of not less than 10 or 11 fathoms when between the parallels
of 0° 56' and 0° 40' N. When this bank has been passed, a course should
be steered so as to cross the equator, and pass 4 or 5 leagues from the
East point of Lingin, if the current will admit. In all cases a vessel should
guard against westerly currents, which are sometimes encountered in these
parts.

Outer Eoute. — When the outer channel is adopted in coming from China
towards Pulo Aor, a vessel ought to pass at a short distance West of the La-
drones and neighbouring islands. In general, strong winds and a heavy sea
with strong currents are found on leaving Great Ladrone, and a vessel should
steer to eastward of South for the Macclesfield Bank ; and when the winds
are moderate she should endeavour to reach the East part of it, When 20
leagues East of the meridian of the Great Ladrone, and a vessel has difiiculty
in obtaining soundings, she may consider herself East of the Macclesfield
Bank. When a vessel has adopted the outer route in November and De-
cember, with strong winds and no observations for several days, she should
endeavour to strike soundings on the Macclesfield Bank ; but if she is certain
of her position, these may be neglected, because from East to West on the

78 PASSAGES.

bank being very wide, and the soundings being very irregular, the depth
can only be an uncertain guide as to her real position. On leaving the
Macclesfield Bank, she should steer for Pulo Sapata, and should have sound-
ings on that bank, and it being on the same parallel it would be well for her
to shape her course for that of Pulo Sapata. If she should not sight this
island, she should steer West, so as to obtain soundings in 32 or 37 fathoms.
With thick weather, when ships are uncertain of their position, it would be
dangerous to run straight for Pulo Sapata and round the island in the night,
as it is difiieult to distinguish. As a general rule, they should keep well to
the East of Pulo Sapata until on the parallel of 10° N., and by standing
West by South to obtain soundings. Some captains, on leaving the Mac-
clesfield Bank, run as far as the parallel of Pulo Sapata, keeping well off to
the eastward of the island ; this can be done in March, April, or May. How-
ever, in adopting this route care must be taken to allow for the S.E. currents
which might set a ship on the banks to the E.N.E. and East of Pulo Sapata.
When a vessel has reached the parallel of 10° N., she would steer between
West and South until soundings are found in 30 fathoms ; then steer a course
for Pulo Aor or Pulo Timoan. If she is bound for the Strait of Singapore,
to avoid the Charlotte Bank, the soundings should not be more than 26 or 28
fathoms when in latitude 7° 6' N. In March and April vessels returning to
Europe should keep well to the eastward, so as to pass between the Natunas
and Anambas Islands, and take the Strait of G-aspar.

Further remarks on these passages have been given on pp. 62 and 85,
as has been alluded to.

15.— PASSAGES BETWEEN AUSTEALIA AND CHINA.

A more full description of the passages between Australia and China will
be found in our Directory for the South Pacific Ocean. As described by
Captain Allen, harbour-master at Newcastle, N.S.W., there were four prin-
cipal routes in use by vessels between the years 1869 — 1873: — 1. The
Eastern Poute, passing eastward of New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, and
Santa Cruz Groups, and crossing the equator in 166° E. 2. The Middle
Route, westward of New Caledonia, and between the Santa Cruz and Solo-
mon Islands, crossing the equator in 159° E. 3. The Western Route,
N.E. from Newcastle to the 157° meridian, thence North on that meridian
to the Pocklington Reef in 11° S., crossing the equator in 153° E. 4. The
Torres Strait Route, also from Newcastle, N.E. to the 157th meridian, then
North on that meridian to the latitude of the Mellish Reef, and N. W. for
Bligh's entrance to Torres Strait. When through Torres Strait the route is
between the Tenimber and Arrou Islands, and by the passage between
Ceram and Bouro into the Molucca Channel, then round the N.E. end of

BETWEEN AUSTE ALIA AND CHINA. 79

Celebes Island into the Celebes Sea, through the Basilan Channel into the
Sulu Sea, and through Mindoro Strait into the China Sea. The distance
from Nevvcastle to Hong Kong by this route is 5,300 miles, and it has been
taken by one ship, between the years 1869 and 1873, the England, which
made the passage in 41 days, in the month of July. Some further remarks
as to the best route through the Archipelago will be found below.

Much depends on the sailing qualities of the vessel, but as a general rule,
ships leaving Australia in the months of January, February, or March, for
China or Japan, should adopt the Middle Route, and may expect to make
the passage in about 40 days ; leaving in April, May, or June, they should
adopt the Western Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 36
days ; leaving in July, August, or September, they should, if they can reach
Torres Strait before the end of August, take that route ; and if not, either
the Western or Middle Route, and may expect to make the passage via
Torres Strait in 40 days, and by the other routes in 55 days ; and, finally,
ships leaving in October, November, and December, should adopt the Middle
Route, and may expect to make the passage in about 44 days.

Eeom Sydney to Yedo. — Vessels bound from Sydney to Japan during
the S.W. monsoon should pursue, as far as lat. 8° N.. and long. 160° E., the
same course as those bound for Hong Kong ; from that position a course
should be shaped to pass to the northward of the Mariana Islands and to
the south-westward of the Volcano Islands, after passing which, steer to
make Sima lights, remembering that the ship must pass the strength of
the Kuro Siwo, and wiU, when in its stream, be set to the north-eastward
from 2 to 3 knots an hour.

North Coast of Australia to China. — The following remarks are by
Mr. Greorge Windsor Earl : —

A ship proceeding from the North coast of Australia to China, from April
to September, when the S.E. monsoon prevails to the southward, and the
S.W. monsoon to the northward of the equator, should pass to the southward
of Timor and Sandalwood Island, and through the straits of Alias or Lom-
bok into the Java Sea ; and from thence through the Carimata Passage, and
up the China Sea to Canton, by which course she will have a stronger mon-
soon and a clearer sea than by passing to the northward of Timor, and
through the Flores Sea ; or than by running at once to the northward,
through the Molucca Passages. By this latter route, instead of a fair and
steady wind all the voyage, difficulty would be experienced in passing be-
tween Borneo and Palawan into the China Sea, from the variable winds, and
from the numerous shoals which lie to the westward of the Balabak Passage.
The passage by the North of Palawan to China is also often attended with
difficulty during the S.W. monsoon ; and an additional inconvenience of
these routes is, that the navigation of the Molucca Sea will be performed
during the bad monsoon.

80 PASSAGES.

Ships returning from China to the North coast of Australia during this
season should pursue the track frequently adopted by ships bound to Europe,
namely, by standing to the eastward, round the North end of the Philippines
into the Pacific, and so to the southward towards New Guinea. When past
the parallel of 5° N., S.E. and S.S.E. winds, with a strong current to the
westward, will probably be felt, by which she may easily pass through Dam-
pier Strait, or the Gilolo Passage, into the Molucca Sea. She may then pass
between Coram and Bouro, and across the Banda Sea to Wetta, when no
difficulty will be found in getting to the eastward along the North side of the
Serwatty Islands, as the current there sets to the eastward during the S.E.
monsoon. When off Baba, she may stand to the southward for the coast of
Australia, and if she should fall to leeward of her port, she may easily gain
her easting by taking advantage of the land and sea breezes.

Again, if a vessel is bound from the North coast of Australia to China
from October to March, when the western monsoon prevails to the southward
of the equator, and the N.E. monsoon in the China Sea, she should, on leav-
ing the coast, keep close to the wind, and as the monsoon often blows 8.W.
and even S.S.W. between Australia and Timor, she may be enabled to pass
between Timor and the Serwatty Islands and through Pitt Passage into the
Pacific, and thus pursue the eastern route to China adopted by ships at this
season. If unable to get far enough to windward to pass between Ceram and
Bouro, she may run at once to the northward, between Ceram and Ceram
Laut, and from thence into the Pacific by Pitt or Damj)ier Straits. The only
difficulty that an indifferent ship would be likely to encounter in this route
would be on the passage between Ceram Laut and the N.W. end of New
Guinea, where the winds would probably be from the N.W. ; but even then
she would have the advantage of fine weather. The route from the North
coast of Australia, through the Flores and Java Seas, and up the China Sea
to Canton, would be impracticable at this season, even for a fast sailing
vessel, as she would have a dead beat and a lee current the whole way.

A ship returning from China during this season may steer a direct course
through the Mindoro Sea, and thence by the Molucca Passage, and past the
N.E. end of Timor to the North coast of Australia.

16.— BETWEEN THE NOETH COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND

SINGAPORE.

A vessel bound to Singapore from April to September may pursue the
route recommended above for ships bound to China at this season, namely to
the southward of Timor, through the Straits of Alias and Cariraata, and
thence through Rhio Strait to Singapore. The return voyage at that season,
through the Java Sea, against the S.E. monsoon, would be tedious and diffi-

FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS. SI

cult, even for a smart ship ; it would, tlierefore, be most advisable to run
across the China Sea, and round the North end of Borneo, where she would
probably have the advantage of S.AV. and S.S.W. winds, to traverse the
Sooloo Archipelago. When near the Molucca Passage, though the winds
will be mostly from the southward, yet but little difficulty will be experienced
in passing through it ; and when through, the route to the North coast of
Australia, already recommended for vessels returning from China at this
season, should be adopted.

From October to March, the passage to Singapore through the Java Sea,
against the N.W. monsoon, will be tedious and difficult ; a ship bound there
during that season should therefore proceed to the northward by the Molucca
or Gilolo Passage, where she would have the advantage of tine weather, and
when to the northward of Grilolo the wind would probably come from the
northward and eastward, with a westerly current, which would enable her to
proceed round the North end of Borneo, and so with the N.E. monsoon,
down the China Sea to Singapore. A ship returning at this season should
pass through the Carimata Passage, through the Java and Floras Seas, and
then to the southward of Wetta, and between Timor and the Serwatty
Islands, to the North coast of Australia. It would be advisable to proceed
through the Strait of Alias, and to the southward of Timor, as light airs and
calms, with squalls from the South and S.S.W., are often encountered to the
southward of the islands East of Java, while in the Flores Sea the N.W.
monsoon blows steadily.

17.— FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS.
In the S.W. Monsoon.

The adverse voyage against the S.W. monsoon is best followed by adopt-
ing one of the ensuing routes, according to the time when the southern part
of China is left.

First Eastern Eoute. — Quitting Macao, or Hong Kong, in the end of
April or beginning of May for the first Eastern Eoute, that is, the Mindoro
Strait, a ship should run to the South as far as the Macclesfield Bank, if the
wind allows, so as to reach the N.W. extreme of Mindoro without tacking
in case of the wind shifting to S.W. From near the Macclesfield she should
stand S.E., holding her wind if it is at all to the S.W., and should it not
admit of her weathering the point of Calavite she should work along the
coast of Lu^on with the variable winds, with which she will come up to the
N.W. extremity of Mindoro.

The channel to the East of the Apo Bank should be chosen for crossing
the Mindoro Strait, giving the Mindoro coast a berth of some miles, if the
wind is variable ; a distance of 9 or 10 miles is necessary if the S.W. wind is

I. A. M

82 PASSAGES.

steady ; she will then pass the islands of Ambolon and Ilin at a distance of
about 15 miles.

Should the wind allow, she may cross the Strait of Mindoro, passing West
of the Apo Lank, in the Northumberland Channel, formed by this bank and
the Calamianes. Then keep along the coast of Panay, working, if necessary,
at some distance from this island, according to circumstances, and approach
the island of Quiniluban, so as to pass the dry sandbank between this island
and the coast of Panay.

Having reached Cape Naso, stand for the strait of Basilan, making it well
to the southward and westward, when the wind is from these quarters : but
steering direct for it if the wind is easterly. The S.W. extreme of Min-
danao being gained, it will be better to take the strait of Basilan than those
formed by the islands to the S.W., the former route being the shortest ; the
Celebes Sea will thus be entered, and the ship will make fur the strait of
Macassar.

Instead of persevering in working at the entrance of the strait of Basilan
against S.E. winds, it may be better to steer West, in order to pass West of
the Sooloo Archipelago, between the point of Unsang and the island of
Tawee-Tawee. There are two small islands close off the S.W. point of this
island, bearing S.W., near Sibutu Island, and forming a good channel lead-
ing direct to the Celebes Sea. This channel is safe, and easy of navigation
both by night and day, four hours sufl&cing for passing from one sea to
the other by it, while under similar circumstances it has sometimes occupied
four days in going from one sea to the other by the strait of Basilan.

To leave the Celebes Sea, a vessel may either take the Macassar Strait or
the Molucca Channel. Some navigators prefer the latter when the S.E.
monsoon prevails North of the equator. In fact, it is difficult, without a
tedious passage to windward, to reach Allass Strait from the strait of Ma-
cassar ; while by taking the Molucca Channel the S.E. monsoon is found in
a latitude sufficiently to the eastward to enable you to take whichever eastern
channel is preferred. But vessels bound to Batavia, or the strait of Sunda,
will find the strait of Macassar the best.

On leaving the strait of Basilan, if the easterly wind is well established, a
vessel should steer so as to make Cape Donda to the S.S.E. or South ; but
most generally, from the winds veering westward near the northern entrance
of the strait, and the current setting eastward, it is prudent to keep as much
as possible to the westward, in order to sight Point Kanneeungan. A ship
off Cape Rivers is sometimes set to the eastward by the current along the
coast of Celebes, and after fruitless contest with it, is sometimes obliged to
take the Molucca Channel.

A ship having entered the strait of Macassar, should keep along the West
coast of Celebes, passing East of the Little Paternosters, being very cautious,
on account of the dangers North of the islands of Nusa Seras, in passing be-

FEOM CHINA HOMEWAEDS. 83

tween them and the Grreat Pulo Laut. From thence she should steer for the
strait of Alias, or one of the straits leading into the Indian Ocean. If
bound to Batavia or the strait of Sun da from the strait of Macassar, she
should steer South, if the wind will permit, and pass North of the Little
Paternosters for the coast of Borneo, keeping along this coast and guarding
against the dangers off it, as well inshore as to seaward. She would then
enter the Java Sea, and reach Batavia or the strait of Sunda without diffi-
culty ; and thence the Indian Ocean, and make for the Cape, or the western
coast of India, by the routes before alluded to.

A ship taking this route, and meeting with contrary winds from the strait
of Basilan, so as to be unable to reach the strait of Macassar, may take the
Molucca Passage, and should then steer for the islands near the N.E. end of
Celebes ; and passing between the islands of Banka and Bejaren, will clear
the N.E. point of that island, and tlien steer to the southward, through the
channel formed by Lissa Matula and Oby Major, which is the most fre-
quented ; or, if the wind should not permit her reaching it, should take the
Grreyhound Channel, between the islands Albion and Hammond (West of
Xulla Tally abo).

When it is difficult to get to the southward in the Molucca Channel, dull
sailing vessels might try to do so by keeping near the West coast of Gilolo ;
thence they might enter the strait of Patientia, between GiLdo and Batchian,
or the strait of Batchian, formed by the island of this name and Tawally and
Maregoland.

However, a ship having reached the northern extremity of Gilolo or
Morty in the height of the S. W. monsoon, should rather pass through the
Grilolo Channel than that of the Moluccas, because it leads more directly to
Pitt Channel, by which she can gain the eastern straits.

On leaving the Molucca Channel the Timor Strait or the strait of Ombay
may be adopted if desirable. A ship should then pass close to Oby Mnjor,
in order easily to round the East coast of Bourou, and so pass between this
island and that of Manipa. She would then run to the southward into the
Banda Sea, whei'e the winds are generally from E.S.E. ; on leaving Manipa
she would endeavour to pass to the East of Ombay, and having crossed the
channel formed by this island and Wetta, would follow the West coast of
Timor, and enter the Indian Ocean between Semao and Savu. This is the
shortest route during this season from Pitt Passage to the Indian Ocean.

Segokd Easterk' Route. — The second eastern route for the Cape or West
coast of India from China, with the S.W. monsoon, is adopted from the
middle of May to the end of July. This route is by taking the Pacific Ocean
East of the Philippines, and passing through Pitt Passage. In August it is
too late to adopt this route, and a ship obliged to leave the S.W. of China
thou, should follow the coasts of Cochin China and Cambodia, as before di-

84 PASSAGES.

rected, unless from being a bad sailer it may be better to defer her departure
until September.

With southerly or S.W. winds, a ship to pass East of the Philippinea
should steer South in order to enter the Pacific Ocean with tacking. If the
wind admits, the channel between the Bashees and Babuyanes should be
adopted. Having reached the Pacific Ocean, S.W. winds at this season will
generally be found, with easterly or N.E. currents ; she should then steer
8.E. in order to avoid Cape Engano and Lugon, tacking if necessary so aa
to pass neither too far out nor too close, and taking care not to round the
Pelew Islands farther to the eastward than is necessary.

The best route for making southing is then East of the isles of St, Andrew,
Current, Mariere, Lord North, and the dangerous Helen Shoal. If the
easterly drifts of the equatorial counter current are met they will not be
strong as far as the Pelew Islands ; but between lat. 5° and 2° N. they set
at the rate of 30 or 60 miles per day. This part must therefore be crossed
as quickly as possible if the wind is West, as it frequently is ; and if the
wind is light, a ship may be set far to the eastward by this current. But
from the lat. of 2° N. to the equator a westerly current will be found, while
near Dampier Strait it is again running to the eastward.

Having rounded to the eastward the island of St. Andrew, a ship should
endeavour to keep between the meridians of 132° and 133° E., and when
in 1° N. lat., if Dampier Strait is to be taken, she should make for Point
Pigot.

The strait of Gilolo being broader than that of Dampier, is often preferred
for that reason, and it has few difficulties to overcome in reaching Pitt
Passage.

When Gilolo Strait is to be adopted, on leaving the parallel of 2° N, a
ship should steer for the Asia Isles, and round them on the North, if the
wind permits, unless she passes between these islands and Ayou.

Having passed the islands of Eye and Syang, she would then go North
or South of the island of Greby, and if the weather be not favourable, instead
of the strait of Bougainville she might take that of Grilolo, which is North of
it ; and in crossing this strait she should keep near the eastern coast, and
enter Pitt Channel between Pulo Pisang and the Boo Isles, or else, accord-
ing to circumstances, between Kekek and Pulo Gass.

A vessel entering Dampier Strait should round Point Pigot at a distance
of 6 or 12 miles, and then steer for King William Island, keeping it West
of her ; when about 9 miles from it she should steer for Pigeon Island, and
pass 2 or 3 miles South of it ; she may then cross the strait, taking care to
avoid any dangers in her way.

On leaving Dampier Strait she would go close round Cape Mabo, so as if
posssible to pass South of Pulo Popa ; or she may pass North of this island

CHINA SEA. 85

and enter Pitt Channel bet'veen the Boo Islands and Pulo Popa. In Pitt
Channel she should keep mid-channel, borrowing rather on the southern
than on the northern side. Having reached West of Pulo Popa, and cleared
Pitt Passage, passing between Ceram and Bourou, the Indian Ocean may be
entered by the strait of Ombay or one of those westward of it.

The strait of Ombay is the most direct route to the Indian Ocean in the
S.E. monsoon. If intending to take the strait of Salayer, or those of Alias
or Sapie, the N.W. part of Bourou should be gained, and thence the most
northerly of the Toukan Bessy group should be rounded at 2 or 3 miles
distance ; and from thence enter the strait of Salayer.

18. CUEEENTS AND PASSAGES AGAINST THE MONSOON, IN
THE CHINA SEA.

In pages 28 to 30, are given some remarks on the currents experienced in
the China Sea ; and in pages 55 to 63 are directions for the various routes,
according to the season, between Singapore and Hong Kong.

The following important notes are the result of the experience and obser-
vation of Captain A. Polack, master of the Hamburgh barque Madeira,
gained during thirty-five voyages up and down the China Sea, previous to
November, 1867. They appeared in the Nautical Magazine for June, 1861,
and are here given for the benefit of the mariner.

Although there is a fast and still increasing trade from China to Saigon,
it is astonishing how very little this voyage up and down the China Sea
against the monsoon is yet known and understood in general, for the greatest
difference of arriving in China (as to time) exists in this little Saigon voyage
of only about 1,100 miles distance. Ships which are acquainted with the
voyage here make it in nineteen to twenty-three days, while the greater part
not being well acquainted with it, require between thirty and forty-five days.
A barque in 1865 took one hundred and ten days, and worse than all, another
actually returned this year to Hong Kong, after having been out about
sixtj' days, declaring it impossible to reach Saigon in the S. W. monsoon. As
I have made now fifteen voyages from Hong Kong to Saigon and back, and
traversed the South China seas up and down, and in all seasons of the year,
thirty-five times, I hope you will hold me competent enough, and will
allow me to give my brother sailors, who do not know the voyage, a little of
my experience.

Leaving Hong Kong in the S.W. Monsoon, our first object ought to be
to make southing, and try to reach the North Danger of the Palawan Shoals
as soon as possible. But as the wind is most generally between S.S.E. and
S.S.W. at starting, I nearly always stood W.S.W. and S.S.W. between Isle

86 PASSAGES.

Hainan and the Paracels even to the East coast of Cochin China, and worked
along this coast as far as Cape Varela {not False Varela), always trying
to be a good distance, say 40 miles oflE shore at noon, to stand in with
the S.S.E. winds generally blowing in the aftf-rnoon, until 7 or 10 p.m.
Then stand off with the wind, then veering a little off land, or about South
and S.S.W. {solar winds). From Cape Varela I invariably stood to the
south-eastward over to the Palawan Shoals, never thinking of going about,
for here my greatest endeavour was to cross the Padaran stream of 40 to 70
miles a day to the N.E. as quickly as possible. I then worked along the
shoals down to 7° N., and 111° or 110° E. long., and between 7° and 8°
N. lat.

I worked from two to four days to the westward, until St. James bore
N.W. by N., which I then generally reached in one or two days in one tack.
In this track my longest voyage was twenty-three and my shortest nineteen
days, at same time when other vessels took fifty and eighty-five days. In
this route I generally had the current from Hong Kong (Taytang Channel)
and Macao, to the South coast of Hainan from ten to twenty-four miles a
day to the N.W. ; from there to the East coast of Cochin China the current
varies between North, N.W., and West, from 15 to 25 miles a day, but on
the West side of the Paracels an East current of 12 to 30 miles will be found.
On the East coast of Cochin China it runs from 10 to 20 miles a day to the
N.N.W. and N.N.E., but there is often no current at all. From Cape
Varela to the shoals I generally had the first day when right in the Padaraa
stream from 30 to 50 (one voyage 70') miles to the N.E. by E., but from
12° N. and about 112° E., its set is from 12 to 40 miles a day to the south-
eastward.

On the shoals there is about 20' to the S.E., and sometimes to the South,
but often no current at all. Between 7° and 8° N. lat, and 110° to 108° E.
long., there is little or no current, sometimes even a slight drain to the
westward. But standing over to Cape St. James a strung N.N.E. and
N.E. by N. current of 36 miles a day will be found, while South of St.
James it runs E.N.E. along the coast from Pulo Obi to Cape Padaran.

Should the wind at starting from Hong Kong be from the S.W., stand
down S.S.E. ; never think of going about till in 15° N., unless the wind
should break off too much. In this track in the open sea, there is generally
not over 20 miles a day of a N.E. current, especially after the strong E.N.E.
China coast current, extending 60 to 75 miles South of Hong Kong, is
crossed.

South of 15° N. lat., and in 115° E. long., or to the East of it, is very
little current. I always give the preference to the inside track, for here
the winds are more variable, the sea smoother, and getting the chance of a
West or N.W. squall from land. Besides this, a vessel reaches the Palawan
Shoals 60 or 80 miles farther West, and westing is very difficult to make

CHINA SEA. 87

there, especially after July, when the S.W. monsoon blows from W.S.W.
or West.

This voyage, as explained here, is quite plain and simple, but if asked,
" Where were the other vessels who took from fifty to eighty-five days in
their passage ?" There is but one general answer. They tried to round
Cape Padaran. Here they were lying for forty consecutive days, sometimes
with a dozen and more ships together. This year a barque took thirty-five
days from Japan to Padaran, but sixty days from there to Cape St. James,
running short of everything, and had to be provisioned by other vessels.
They sometimes go as far as Sapata, but never thinking that, bound to St.
James in 10° 10' N., they ought to go due South as far as 7° N. lat., and
even ships on the shoals in 9° or 10° N. and about 111° E., get tempted to
stand W.N.W., intending to pass between Pulo Sapata amd Pulo Ceicer.
But when making the land, they find themselves between Padaran and
Varela.

I know several instances of this. Or that a ship made a N.N.E. course
sailing W.N.W. Although some vessels did make Padaran, and made a
good passage (assisted perhaps by a N.W. squall), they form an exception,
and may not do the same again in ten more voyages. AVhereas the track
along the shoals, and although about 300 miles longer, is pretty certain.

My short advice, therefore, is, go either East or West of the Paracels, and
make the shoals of Palawan as soon as possible. A ship taking the inside
route should work between the Cochin China coast and 40' off it, but should
not remain there in the night, as there is seldom a land breeze, but much
calm. Having reached the shoals as aforesaid, work along them, standing
to 60 miles off. Never think of Padaran or Sapata, and do not leave the
shoals unless in 8° or 7° N. lat., as stated before, or you will surely be dis-
appointed.

Bound from Saigon to China in the N.E. Monsoon. — Stand out to the
S.E. and tack, even if the wind should be from East 40' off the land. The
wind will haul up to E.N.E. and N.E., then try to pass the S.W. current
(which runs the first day at the rate of 30 to 40 miles) as fast as you can ;
for about 150 miles S.E. by E. from St. James, in about 8° 30' N. and 109°
E., the current runs already to the East and E.N.E. AVorking along the
shoals, between them and 60 miles off from lat. 9° N., as far as North
Danger, about 75 miles off, will be right in the fair N.E. and northerly
current (right against the wind), but I am inclined to believe that a ship
should not go nearer the shoals than about 20 miles from them, because the
northerly current extends not so far East, for I have often found there no
current at all. From North Danger to about 119° E., an easterly current
from about 10 to 40 miles will be found. But in the early part of October
the current off the North Danger runs from 10 to 15 miles to the S.E.

88 PASSAGES.

Along the West coast of Lugonia the wind is from N.N.W. to N.E, and
East, with fine weather and 15 to 24 miles current to the North, but from
Bolina it blows generally heavy, with a high, short northerly sea. If the
first puff off Bolina is passed, and 100 or 150 miles are made to the N.W.,
the wind and sea are getting more handy and regular, and change one or two
points farther to the East. But the ship wants canvas here, and must be in
good and sound condition, for the sea rises here in short and high pyramids,
on account of the hitherto uninterrupted northerly current, assuming here a
velocity of 52 miles a day to the N.W. by N. and N.W., and running oblique
to the N.E. sea. My longest voyage in this track was twenty-two days, and
my shortest nineteen days from Saigon to Hong Kong. In February and
October, a ship should not go East of the Scarborough Shoal, for in Febru-
ary it is not necessary, and in October there will be nothing but calms and a
high northerly sea running.

This voyage against the N.E. monsoon is sometimes very easy, and done
in less than nineteen days. But it is in general a difficult task, especially in
November, December, and January, and requires a good ship and plenty of
canvas on her, especially on the West side of the Palawan shoals, where the
sea, running right against a North and N.E. current, is as high and short
here as from Bolina to the Pratas. But many ships in this voyage commit a
great error in working along the South coast of Cochin China and try to get
out of Padaran, which is nearly impossible on account of the strong W.S.W.
current and always very short sea.

After reaching Cape Bolina, and finding the above mentioned stiff gale and
tremendous high cross sea, and thinking it blows a heavy gale all over to
China, ships make a second mistake by creeping under the land again and
waiting there sometimes for a fortnight, expecting better weather. And this
is the same case with many ships South of Formosa when bound North along
its East coast.

My advice, therefore, is stand boldly out, and remember that the current
will assist you first with 50, and afterwards with 20 miles a day to the
N.W. by N., as far as the Pratas. And at 60 miles from the China coast
the wind will be about E.N.E., and sea moderating as you close the South
China coast. But keep the first day from Cape Bolina good rap full, even if
you head the first day to leeward of Hong Kong, and should a ship really
fall to leeward of Taytang Channel, let her proceed in at the Ladrones, from
which Hong Kong will be reached in one day. If bound to Swatow, Amoy,
and the northern ports of China, work as far as Cape Bayadere, and then
stand out N.W. or N.N.W., making long legs to the North, and short ones
to the East, especially for the first 150 miles, where the strong N.N.W.
current will be under your lee. South Formosa will generally be reached
in three to four days, from whence to South Pescadores, and over to Swatow
and Amoy, is plain sailing, and will be reached in one tack.

CHINA SEA. 89

Bound to l^'ou-Chou-Foo and further North, ships have to pass round the
South Cape of Formosa, and work to the northward East of the island, where
the Kuro Si wo current will assist them 40 miles a day, decreasing to 20
miles as they advance to the northern boundary of the current in about 28° N.
and 125° E. long., from where Shanghae is reached without diificulty. But
always remember that the cold water current runs strong to the South on the
East coast of China. Bound to Fou-Chou-Foo they may cross over from
26° N. lat., and about 122J° E. long, in one tack.

A voyage up and down the China Sea with the monsoon presents no diffi-
culty, but I would advise captains of ships to pass East of the Paracels, for
in the S.W. monsoon the winds there are more steady and fresh than inside,
or West of them, and a vessel has more sea room in case of a cyclone. After
having passed to the West of Macclesfield Bank, steer a N. by W. or N. by
W. ^ W. course, on account of a N.E. current, and the winds blowing often
from W.S.W. and West. December and January, and in some years the
latter half of November, are the only months in the N.E. monsoon that I
would advise to pass inside the Paracels when bound South, but which ou^ht
never to be done from February to the end of May on account of calms, and
always lighter winds than in the open sea. I never went inside in these
months, but gained on ships which did so, from eight days to a fortnight in
the months of March, April, and May, bound South, as well as in the S.W.
monsoon from June to September when bound North.

Every one who has perused the foregoing attentively will perceive that it
is not the wind only that causes the long and troublesome passage, but that
we have to consider the current as our greatest enemy. And as it has been
my principal object from the beginning to make myself thoroughly acquainted
with the subject, I beg leave to trouble you a little longer, and give you a
slight illustration of my views about it, founded on the experience of my
voyages.

Currents. — In the first place, I am positive when I assert that the whole
current of the South China Sea is nothing but a large circular stream, in
which the waters running from South have to pass North, in order to return
down South again. Coming from the North through the Formosa Channel,
and from the East by the Bashees, the first getting propelled by difi'erence
of specific gravity, and accelerated by the N.E. monsoon, it rushes down to
the S.W., without finding material obstruction, until met by Capes Varela
and Padaran. Here its waters are turned oS" to the South, part of them or
the northern branch runs W.S.W. along the Saigon coast to Pulo Obi, and
crossing the Gulf of Siam to Malacca ; the main body, after having passed
Padaran, resumes its course to the S.S.W., but the south-eastern part
branches off to the South as far as 8° N. and 109° 20' E., from where it runs
to the E. and E.N.E. as far as 9° N. and 110° E. There it turns N.N.E.

I. A. N

90 PASSAGES.

and from 10° 30' N. 111° 20' E. to the N.N.W. into its own whirl again, to
give place to new waters of the great counter stream or whirpool. This ex-
planation may be new, but it is, I fully believe, quite true, for I found it
every voyage, bound North in the N.E. monsoon, only differing a little in
force and direction according, perhaps, to the prevailing strange or light
original main current. The E.N.E. and N.E. cui-rent or the first bend in
this whirl runs strongest, and from 20 to 51 miles a day, decreasing as it
advances North to about 25 and 15 miles when its direction is N.N.W. I
Consider this branch 50 miles broad, and the diameter of the whole whirl,
from Padaran to its southern extremity, about 180 miles, and from Padaran
to the S.E. about 140 miles.

If this whirl did not exist, how should we account for the strong N.E.
current against a strong N.E. monsoon (and for the always sharp set about
Sapata which we experience, and which Horsburg and the China Pilot men-
tion), sometimes when the China Sea current to the North and S.W. of this
whirl runs at the rate of 40 to 80 miles a day to the south-westward. This
latter current I had in October, 1866, coming down from Hong Kong with
the commencement of the N.E. monsoon, or why is there not a N.E. current
in the N.E. monsoon, for instance, on the Macclesfield Bank, or at Pulo
Condore as well ? After this current of the aforesaid main branch has run
down to the Natunas, &c., it gets obstructed again on the coast of Borneo,
by which a slight drain to the East is caused, running along the North
coast of Borneo, through the Palawan Passage (assisted perhaps by a part
of the aforesaid eastern counter current of the Palawan whirl), and along
the West coast of Lugonia, to run from Capes Bolina and Bayadere N.N.W.
in the great China circular current, and commence its round via Padaran
again.

This circular whirl-current about Padaran is the same in the S.W. mon-
soon, but in a contrary direction, but not so constant and regular as in the
N.E. monsoon. H.B.M's. surveying vessel the Rifleman found the same
amongst the Palawan shoals, where the commarder says, "The stronger
the monsoon, the stronger the current to windward,^'' and this is according to
the whirl theory quite conclusive, for the greater and stronger the counter
current and the larger the whirl (and the stiffer the monsoon, the stronger is
the China Sea current). I have often seen and noticed in the Saigon River,
where the ebb tide runs at the rate of A knots an hoar, in the middle of
the river, after turning a sharp corner it causes a great counter current or
whirl, in which the waters run 2 or 3 knots up the river close alongside
the 5-knot ebb tide, so that a boat, and often my own vessel, when in it,
drifted up the river at the above rate. And when a small river can pro-
duce such a strong whirl, what may not the mighty mass of the China Sea
current be able to do ? At all events I never found it necessary with the
above N.E. current in the N.E. monsoon to take the Palawan Route, and

CHINA SEA. 91

my results have shown that I never was behind, but generally ahead of those
vessels which did take that dangerous Palawan Route.

This whirl current to the West of the Palawan shoals may also account
for the different currents found by vessels which are working there at the
same time, where one ship beats right in the counter stream, whilst the other
is too far West or inside the whirl, or too far East and out of its influence
altogether. And these little whirls are to be found around all the shoals in
the China Sea, and although Horsburg recommends passing to leeward of
all shoals, I have great reason from my own experience for cautioning cap-
tains even there. To leeward of the Pratas I found on two voyages the
current setting East, or right on the shoals, against a stiff N.E. monsoon in
the months of December and January. Although this is the general current
it is nevertheless liable to irregularities and changes, in force and direction,
and perhaps more than anywhere else, which is not at all surprising in a
small sea like this, full of islands and shoals, and entirely enclosed by land,
causing different winds on either side of it, and on which the current so
much depends. For sometimes it blows a stiff N.E. gale to the North, while
it is calm South of the Paracels, and commanders expecting perhaps a slight
current are surprised to find one sometimes of 50 miles by observation, but
in eight cases out of ten the above explained current will be found pretty
correct.

And lastly, I take the opportunity to caution captains against trusting too
much to red or green lights when in the vicinity of the Pratas and Paracels,
for they are often exhibited by wreckers and pirates, especially at the Pratas.
I once observed a green light to windward of me on the West side of the
Pratas. I kept four points off, and being a clear night, I went aloft with my
glass, and saw two junks, one of which carried the light.

CHINA AND JAPAN.

The following remarks on the passages along the Coast of China and be-
tween China and Japan are taken chiefly from the China Sea Directory,
and are supplementary to those previously given which describe the best
routes for approaching the southern ports of China.

19. PASSAGES ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA.

Passage East of Formosa. — When bound from Hong Kong to Ning-po,
or Shanghai, or even to Fu-chau fu, during the N.E. monsoon, a vessel
should be in good condition for contending with rough weather and for
carrying sail. The best plan appears to be, to work along the coast as far

92 PASSAGES.

as Breaker Point,* and then stretch across to the South end of Formosa, and
work up eastward of that island. By remaining in with the coast of China,
she will have the advantage of the land wind at night, of smoother water,
and the ebb tide out of the deep bays, which will generally be under her le©
on the starboard tack, and in the event of its blowing too hard to make way,
there are numerous convenient anchorages. It will be prudent to keep within
10 miles of the coast, to avoid being swept to the southward whilst standing
off the land; but as this cannot be done at night without risk, a vessel
should, if possible, anchor in the evening, and weigh in the middle watch,
when the wind, generally coming more off the land, will enable her to make
a good board on the off shore tack. By passing eastward of Formosa, also,
a heavy short sea in the Formosa Channel will be avoided, as well as the
constant set to the southward during the season.

After rounding the South end of Formosa, off which there is generally &
troublesome sea, a vessel should make short tacks, if requisite, to keep with-
in the influence of the Kuro siwo or Japan stream, which has sometimes
been found running northward at the rate of 30 or 40 miles per day.

There are no harbours on the East coast of Formosa, except Su-au Bay,
tow^ards the North end of the island, and deep water will be found close to
the land. The mountains rise almost immediately from the sea ; their sides
in some places are cultivated, and a good many houses will be seen. H.M.
brig Plover anchored on an uneven bottom in Black Rock Bay, the vessel
swinging from 13 to 22 fathoms, and rode out a gale from the S.W. ; but it
is by no means to be recommended.

Having weathered the North end of Formosa, it will be still advisable to
keep to the eastward, and not approach the continent until the parallel of
lat. 30^° N. is gained. Should, however, a vessel be driven to the westward,
she may always calculate on smooth water, and be able to tide it through
the southern part of the Chusan Archipelago ; and if disabled and in want of

* Towards the close of the N.E. monsoon, and still later, it would seem preferable to
cross over towards Luzon rather th.in beat up to Breaker Point against tresh N.E. breezes,
as the following remarks of Captain David W. Stephens, of the British ship Sarkaway,
tend to show;—" Ships from Hong Kong, bound through the Bashee or any of the other
channels between Formosa and Luzon, from March to June inclusive, but more particularly
in March and April, during brisk N.E. winds and a strong westerly current, frequently
take a week beating along shore to reach Breaker Point before standing off; whereas, if
after clearing the Lema Channel the vessels had stood off on a wind, clean full to the S.E.,
they would soon have got out of the westerly current, and on nearing Luzon would expe-
rience the wind more from the eastward and sometimes from S.E., enabling them to tack to
the N.N.E. with a strong current in their favour, and thus would probably get to the east-
ward of Formosa in less time than it would have taken to reach Breaker Point by keeping
along the Coast of China."

CHINA SEA. 93

spars, she can remain at the southern side of Duffield Pass, and supply her-
self from the Fu-chau wood junks.

Upon this part of the voyage the following remarks, which appeared in
the "Mercantile Marine Magazine" for 1865, will be interesting. They
are by Capt. James Turnbull, of the Glen Clune, of Glasgow, and relate to
an outward voyage made in September, 1864.

The object of nearing Formosa, is to get into an easterly set in-shore,
working round and joining the permanent great stream from the Pacific on
the East side near Botel Tobago. This set is found as soon as the N.E.
monsoon has set down the Formosa Channel, impelling the water, and thus
making it perform the entire circuit of the island, down the West and up
the East coast. While working off the South coast, wind northing, stood
right for the Bashees, there tacked and fetched Botel Tobago, when we
were fairly in the Japan current, temperature of water 83°, average daily
set 30 to 36 miles N.N.E.. and made 70 to 80 miles per diem. From the
East cape, too many vessels still commit the mistake of working to the
northward, direct for Shanghai, whereas the current sets north-easterly
right over the Hoa-pin-su Group. Follow it, drawing for its western edge
a curve line from the E&st cape to 30 miles West of Hoa-pin-su, and on to
the East side of the Linschoten or Cecille Group. Its eastern edge cannot
be so well defined, but draw a line from Kumi to East of Raleigh Rock, and
then past Sulphur Island and West of Lu-chu Group. The reason the
western edge is better defined is, that it follows a sudden rise of the bottom,
from ocean depth to about 50 fathoms. If you have an atlas on board, you
will find the Japan stream placed 2° and 3° further south-easterly, that is
just where a vessel woiild get the back eddies southwards, — any representa-
tion that I have seen nf it being merely from the guesswork of generalisa-
tion, not from actual observation. When the winter has set in the tempera-
ture is a good guide on its N. W. side ; but in summer and fall, the heat of
the water right up to the in-shore set of the China coast is nearly the same,
81° to 82°. From Botel Tobago to off Sulphur Island I beat up in six days,
then tacked, heading N.W. by W., and in two days fetched the Jight-ship,
The Anglo Saxon and Sir W. F. Williams did the same with somewhat similar
success, while of those who fought away North of Formosa, one went down,
others sought refuge at Amoy to refit, and some came dropping in towards
the middle of October, assisted by the southerly winds that often succeed
the first six weeks of the N.E. monsoon. The sea is much the same as in the
American Gulf Stream, and vessels that cannot stand it ought not to be sent
to China.

On making the Barren Islands, as nearly the whole flood tide sets S.W.,
keep to windward, and do not be tempted to seek shelter under the Saddle
Islands. Either work in the open sea under a press of sail ; or, if possible,
stand on until near the Amherst Rocks, when, if dark, anchor. You will

94 PASSAGES.

have rough riding, but the pilot boats and coasters do so at all times in pre-
ference to seeking shelter to leeward, as, in spite of the sailing directions, it
is difficult to get back. Pilots are now in abundance, and in the N.E. .mon-
Boon ships run up to Wusung, and there take steam.

Amoy to Rivbr Min. — If bound from Hong Kong to Amoy, or the ports
between that place and the River Min, a vessel will generally find a diffi-
culty in getting round Breaker Point ; for the tide here is of no use, and all
there is to assist is the likelihood that the wind will draw off the land after
midnight, when, by being in-shore, a good board can be made, and possibly
the Cape of Good Hope reached. Haimun Bay cannot be recommended, but
still it would be better to anchor there than to be carried round the point.
In this case, should West Hill be obscured, run in under the point, lower a
boat, and let her find the sunken rock, and then come in with good
way to windward of Parkyns Eock — if drawing less than 13 ft. — and shoot
up round the boat into Fort Bay.

Having reached the Cape of Good Hope, the flood will assist a vessel to
round it, and the ebb out of the Han River will be a weather tide ; in the
latter case, and not intending to go inside Namoa Island, endeavour to get
along the South side of the island, where there is an eddy tide, and anchor
in South Bay, should the weather prove too bad to proceed on the flood ;
both tides will be found strong off Three Chimney Point, and the same may
be said of Jakako Point, round which vessels should take the first of the
flood on the port tack.

Further northward about Rees Island, the flood tide in strong winds
causes an uneasy sea, which will distress a vessel much. Red and Ting-tae
Bays will be found good stopping-places ; and the latter should be preferred,
though at the loss of 2 or 3 miles, to anchoring in an exposed position in the
entrance to Amoy Harbour; as when the N.E. winds freshen off here on the
flood, they generally bring a mist in with them, which makes it difficult to
find the entrance, and at the same time a vessel will have trouble to get out
of the harbour against the tide.

To the northward of Amoy or Leeo-lu and Hu-i-tau Bays, both of which
afford good shelter. Chimmo Bay is not so good ; but with plenty of good
ground tackle vessels may ride in it. The current in the monsoon over-
comes the tide here ; and advantage must be taken of every slant of wind,
bearing in mind that it is likely to draw off the land in the middle watch,
pnd in the event of anchoring for shelter, this is the time to start, should the
wind moderate ; by waiting for daylight vessels lose their offing, and will
have to make an off-shore board at a loss. The fogs are at times thick, but
the lead is not a bad guide, as the soundings generally change from sand
to mud as the shore is approached. There is also fair anchorage under
Pyramid Point, but not so good as that under the South Yit ; and if the

CHINA AND JAPAN. 95

vessel is looking up North, or anything East of it, the ebb out of Meichen
Sound will be of assistance.

From the Lam-yit Islands or the South end of Hai-tan Strait to the Whit©
Dogs is beyond doubt the most difficult part of the passage. With steamers
the strait will afford the best route ; but sailing vessels should decidedly
keep outside, and stretch over to the N.W. coast of Formosa, where they
are likely to get a slant of wind, and the advantage of a weather tide j
and as this portion of the coast has been surveyed, by attention to the sound-
ings no vessel can come to any harm.

EivER Mm TO Chusajj- Archipelago. — North of the Eiver Min the ebb
is generally a weather tide (unless the wind is far to the North), and out
of the river, and off Ting-hai and Sam-sah Bays, vessels will get a good
lift ; and with the flood, the indraught into the latter will be sensibly felt
as far out as Larne Islet, and increases to 2 and 3 knots as the main ia
closed. As a general rule, tack for the in-shore tide, when the moon is on
the meridian,

Tung-ying Island will be found a strong anchorage, and here the coast
should be forsaken (unless the vessel is under 12 ft. draught), and the deep
water to the eastward kept in. The tide will afford but little assistance un-
til the vessel arrives at the Chusan Archipelago ; the flood causes an un-
easy sea in the shallow water, while the ebb has too much southing in it;,
unless the wind is eastward of E.N. E. ; but Nam-ki and Pih-ki-shan Islands
will afford good shelter.

On reaching the Chusan Archipelago, take the Beak Head Channel, unless
the tide is nearly done, in which case there is Harbour Eouse and the South
side of Luhwang Island as anchorages under the lee ; and as the first of th©
ebb runs to the northward through the Foto Channels, the tide through
may be saved, and anchorage gained on the Ketau shore. From hence,,
if bound to Ting-hai Harbour, contrive to arrive at the West end of Tower
Hill Island about slack water ; otherwise, in light winds, the vessel is
liable to be carried on to Just-in-the-Way, and even through the Blackwall
Channel.

In working through the North part of the Chusan Archipelago, as the set
of the ebb and flood trends nearly East and West, advantage can always be
taken of the tide, and vessels may count on feeling the influence of the ebb
within an hour of the moon's meridian passage. When in the vicinity of
Gutzlaff Island the first of the flood takes a direction to the southward of
West, running into Hang-chu Bay.

The eddy tide, generally speaking, will carry vessels clear of the large
islands ; but when they are approaching detached rocks, great attention is
required to prevent being set in amongst them.

96 PASSAGES.

In-shoke Passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse Kiang.— These
directions for making the in-shore passage from Hong Kong to the Yang-tse
Kiang by vessels of moderate steam power, during the N.E. monsoon, are
drawn up from a report by Commander C. E. Buckle, H.M.S. Frolic, 1876,
aided by Mr. T. E. Cocker, commanding the Chinese Eevenue Cruiser Ling-

feng.

A vessel should leave Hong Kong in time to anchor under Tam-tu Island
for the night, if necessary, or by leaving earlier, to reach the well sheltered
anchorage in Samun Road, between Tuni-ang and Samun Islands ; or in
Harlem Bay. Leaving Tam-tu at daylight, pass out through Tathong
Channel ; after rounding Tam-tu Island, steer to the westward of Nine-pin
Group for Basalt Island, thence North of Tuni-ang Island for Harlem Bay.
If in fine weather, and keeping to the southward, pass near to Single Island.
Prom Harlem Bay, pass on either side of Middle Rock, round Eokai Point,
and North of Pauk-Piah ; thence steer for Goat Island, where good anchor-
age may be obtained on the N. W. side of the island.

A vessel may either proceed to the southward of Goat Island and North of
Reef Islands for Chelang Point, or pass to the southward of Reef Islands,
and thence for Tong-mi Point (good anchorage wiU be found in Chino Bay).
Pass to the northward of Si-ki Island, and South of Tung-ki, thence for
Hutung Point and Turtle Rock, from which steer in-shore for, and through,
Tungao Roads, tolerably near White Rock and to the southward of Corea

Rock.

Having rounded Breaker Point, not nearer than 2 miles, steer to pass near
Tong-lae Point into Haimun Bay, South of Parkyns Rock into Hope Bay,
where there is good anchorage during the N.E. monsoon. From abreast
Swatow, steer to pass about half a mile to the eastward of Fort Island
(giving Dove Rock, off Swatow, a good berth), being careful not to mistake
either of the cones or hummocks of Fort Island, which appear detached, for
the more distant Brig Island. If it be desirable to pass South of Namoa,
the best anchorage for small vessels will be found in South Bay. When
rounding the S.E. point of Namoa Island, care is necessary to avoid Glen-
gyle Rock.

Passing North of Namoa, keep a good look-out for the heavy fishing
stakes extending from Clipper Point, and proceed for Breaker Island. From
Fort Head, steer towards Chauan Head for Owick Bay, where good anchor-
age will be obtained, with the rock off Owick Point bearing S.S.E. ^ E., and
Jokako Peak N.E. f E. In this bay it will be almost calm when there is a
good breeze outside.

From Owick Bay steer for Bell Island ; or, if keeping in-shore, haul out
when closing this island, and pass to the southward of it. Between Bell and
Square Islands a very disturbed sea and tide rip will be experienced ; keep
towards Jokako Point and into Jokako Bay, gradually hauling out to paes

CHINA AND JAPAN. 97

about half a mile from the rocks off Cone Point, from which steer for Pagoda
Island, gradually hauling out to pass close under Thunder Head, thence
steer to the southward of Rees Rock. From Rees Pass, steer for the Hu-
tau-shan River bar, and gradually haul out to pass about half a mile off
Black Head and Tagau Point ; passing tolerably close to and eastward of
Hut Islet, thence westward of Spire Islet, and mid-channel between Crab
Point and Cleft Islet, which is a desirable channel. Between Spire Islet
and Cork Point there is usually a rough sea, and the coast should be fol-
lowed as closely as Shun Rock will admit. Anchorage may be obtained in
Red Bay.

The distance from Cork Point to the outer anchorage of Amoy may easily
be run during a fine night, the islands and headlands showing out plainly : — ■
Leaving Red Bay, give Cork Point a good berth, and steer to the westward
of House Hill Point, edging out when closing the latter point ; thence for
Notch Island and along the coast for Table Head (off which some rocks are
said to exist), and Chin-ha Point.

Proceeding to the northward, outside Amoy, steer for Leeo-lu Bay, in
which, by passing close to Leeo-lu Head, good anchorage will, if required,
be found. Prom Leeo-lu, steer to clear Dodd Ledge thence along the coast,
keeping inshore. Safe anchorage may be found under Tongbu in addition
to the many good anchorages shown on the chart. Sorrel Rock may be
passed either on the East or West sides, and with a strong breeze a vessel
may pass North of Loutz Shoal, through Lamyit Channel, and make for
Hai-tan Strait. If the weather be fine, pass to the southward of Sorrel
Rock, skirt Lamyit Islands, thence for Turnabout Island"* and Hai Head.
Good anchorage will be obtained under Hai Head, with Turnabout Island
shut in.

Prom Hai Head, steer towards the White Dog Islands, passing westward
of that group thence to Matson Diplo, and Spider Islands, between Spider
and Cony Islands, or to the westward of Spider Island, and through Seaon
Channel, thence to Fuh-yan or through the Chuh-pi Pass, to anchorage in
Lishan Bay. From Fuh-yan, keep along the coast, and pass between Tung-
pwan and Shroud Islands, thence into Bullock Harbour, if necessary.
Leaving Bullock Harbour, pass out between Pwan-peen and the northern
Tseigh Islands, eastward of Coin Island, and southward of Hea-chu, off the
Tai-chou Islands: — With a strong breeze a vessel may steer from Coin
Island to pass between Taluk and Chin-ki, thence between San-shi Islands
and Stragglers, to good anchorage under Shetung. Proceed between Chik-
hok and Low Chikhok, West of Squall Islands, and between Fir Coin and

* A sunken rock, on which the S.S. Sunda struck, in 1875, is said to be situated from 1
to 1^ mile northward of Turnabout Island,

I. A. O

98 PASSAGES.

Chuh-sen, to good anchorage westward of Gau-tau Island. Proceeding to
the northward from this anchorage, pass between Kinmen and Gau-tau
Islands. In fine weather pass to the eastward of Heroine Rock (the ac-
cepted position of this rock, as given by the U.S.S. Ashuelot, being S.E. by
E. f E., 4 miles from the S.W. end of Lea-ming Island) and Twins, or in a
strong wind steer for Cape Conway and through Sheipoo Roads.

Fair anchorage in a N.W. wind will be obtained under the northern
Kweshan Island, but there is a better anchorage to the N.W. of Castle Rock.
It is, however, advisable to get as close to Gough Pass for the night as pos-
sible, ready to go through at daylight, or if in time, go through the pass and
anchor for the night near Sing-lo Island. After passing Sing-lo Island pro-
ceed through Tower Hill and Blackwall Channels ; anchorage may be found
under Dunsterville or Volcano Islands, both of which should be left to the
eastward on passing, thence steer for Rug:ged Islands.

Care is necessary when navigating this part of the coast, as the tides run
strong.

It should be borne in mind, that at all times during the N.E. monsoon
the weather is uncertain, and strong breezes set in without any warning,
sometimes lasting for two or three days, or even more. Fogs are experienced
in the early part of the year in the same manner.

No vessels of small steam power should attempt to proceed northward
during the N.E. monsoon, except by the inshore passage, and the same
might be said of the typhoon season.

Passages in S.W. Monsoon. — There will not be the same difB.culty in
getting to the southward against the southerly monsoon, as there is in going
to the northward against the other, as it is not so permanent in its direction,
and land and sea breezes prevail ; the current has generally been found
running strong to the northward in the Formosa Channel, but vessels are
not liable to the same detention which they often experience in the northerly
monsoon. Care, however, must be taken not to overshoot the port.

Fogs prevail in the early part of the season, and render the navigation at
times as harassing as it is in the N.E. monsoon ; they, however, generally
lift in the vicinity of the land, and a ship's length from where the bowsprit
can hardly be seen will carry her into sunshine.

The chief difficulty to overcome in making the passage between the Gulf
of Pe-chili and Hong Kong during the southerly monsoon is the strong
easterly or north easterly current. After passing the parallel of the Yang-
tse kiang, it will be advisable to keep near the China coast ; for although a
vessel may lie up South or S. by E. on the starboard tack, it should be re-
membered that she is making little better than a S.E. (ourse in consequence
of the easterly set. A stretch to the north-westward, though apparently a
loss of ground, will ultimately prove useful.

CHINA AND JAPAN. 99

H.M.S. Pique, Capt. Sir Frederick Nicolson, C.B., in making this passage
in July and August, was not favoured when close in shore by any land and
sea breezes, nor had the least slant, but generally lost the wind. A weather
tide was occasionally felt when near the shore in the Formosa Channel.

Although the constant adverse current makes this a tedious passage
against the monsoon, there is nothing to prevent a vessel of moderate sailing
qualities making the passage at this season. The Pique had seldom more
than single-reefed topsails, and the sea was generally smooth ; she made the
passage from the Gulf of Pe-chili to Hong Kong in 31 days.

It would appear that North of the tropic to the parallel of 30° N., North
and N.E. winds prevail during the greater part of the year, but alternating
with calms, variables, and S.W. winds during the summer months.

20.— PASSAGES BETWEEN CHINA AND JAPAN.

DUEING THE NOETH-EAST MONSOON.— Hong Kong to Yedo.—
A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo at this season, should work up
the Coast of China as far as Breaker Point (or see note, page 92), taking care
to be always under the land at nightfall, the wind during the night always
hauling to the northward (off the land), when she may make a long tack off,
standing in again in the morning when the wind shifts to the N.E., and fre-
quently more easterly still. From Breaker Point the vessel may then stand
across with the wind free tor the South end of Formosa, experiencing a
southerly set whilst in the Formosa Channel ; but on nearing the island she
will lose it, and on passing South Cape fall in with the Kuro Siwo setting to
the N.E.

Having passed South Cape Formosa, the vessel may work up the coast of
that island, passing between it and the Meiaco Sima Group, and to the west-
ward of the Liu-Kiu Islands, having the current with her as far as the
parallel of 26° N., beyond which parallel she will experience no current
until 30° N., where a strong current will be found setting to the eastward,
the wind also being more from the North and West. She may then pass
through any of the channels between the islands lying off the South point of
Japan, after which, keeping at about from 50 to 10 miles from the land, in
the strength of the Kuro Siwo, she may make the lights at Oo Sima (entrance
of the Kii Channel), and passing them at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles,
may steer to pass just outside Mikomoto (Eock Island).

From Yedo to Hong Kong. — On leaving the Gulf of Yeao, stand to the
south-westward as far as 28° S. and 135° E., whence a course may be shaped
to pass northward of Kakirouma, one of the Liu-Kiu Group, thus avoiding
the influence of the Kuro Siwo. After passing Iwo Sima, a straight course
may be steered for Tung Ying, on making which island stand down the
China coast for Hong Kong-

100 PASSAGES.

Fbom Shanghae to Nagasaki. — At this season, if the wind is to the east-
ward of North, it would be well on leaving the Yang-tse to stand to the
north-westward on the starboai'd tack, and when the wind hauls round to the
north-westward, which it will as the ship advances northward, tack, and
steer a straight course for Nagasaki, making allowance for the south-easterly
and easterly set from the Yellow Sea and Korea Strait, otherwise the ship
may be swept to the eastward through Van Diemen Strait. During the
periodic easterly winds (variable between E.N.E. and S.E.) which prevail on
the China coast in the vicinity of the Yang-tse, from March to June inclusive,
with a sailing vessel, every opportunity must betaken to make easting, even
with a fair wind, which it may be almost surely inferred will be but of short
duration. In May and June, however, the set of the current will be changed,
and will be found running to the north-eastward ; under these circumstances
there is a probability that a vessel kept on the starboard tack would be set
over to the Korean Archipelago. With these considerations the navigator
must act on his own judgment, there being only difficulty in making the
passage, when baffling winds, and thick, rainy, and squally weather are met
with in the vicinity of the Meac Sima, the Pallas, or the Goto Islands, or
they are passed on dark nights. If not, therefore, sure of the vessel's posi-
tion, it would be well to make them in the daytime, unless the nights are
moderatel}' fine.

Hakodate through Korea Strait. — If bound on to Hakodate at the
same season, or even as late as the end of June, it will be found difficult
with a sailing vessel to make easting at all along the West coast of Nipon.
It will be advantageous in April, May, and June, to pass well East of Tsu
Sima in the strength of the Japan stream, which sets N.E. by N. through
the Korea Strait, attaining at times, although not constant, a velocity of 2
knots an hour. Should a S.W. wind occur at this season, it may be ex-
pected to last only 24 hours, unless it follow an easterlj' gale with depressed
barometer. During the winter, gales from North and N.W. are very fre-
quent in the Korea Strait, lasting three or four days, and are sometimes
violent. A rapidly falling barometer indicates their approach, the wind in-
creasing in force after the mercury commences to rise, and not attaining its
height until 24 hours after. In such weather, if making for Nagasaki on the
purt tack, beware of being blown to leeward into Van Diemen Strait, for if
set through by the Japan stream it will take a long time to regain the lost
ground against the current (one vessel having been nearly three weeks en-
deavouring to beat round Cape ChichakofF) ; and if on the starboard tack,
there is probability of being set up the Korea Strait to the northward of Ose
Saki. As both cases have happened to vessels, it is recommended that they
should endeavour to make the land in daylight, and find anchorage, or secure
a knowledge of their position.

In winter, when N.W. and West winds prevail, a direct course should be

CHINA AND JAPAN. 101

Bteered from the Korea Strait when bound to Hakodate ; but if bound from
Hakodate southward, it is necessary to endeavour to make westing when
possible, and keep a long offing, for the coast of Nipon is a lee shore. After
passing Korea Strait as well to windward as possible, the winds will be
found more liable to change when arrived at lat. 32° N., long. 125"^ E., but
sometimes they continue so steadily between N.W. and "SV.S.W. as to set a
vessel to leeward of the Tang-tse.

Shaxgitae to Yedo. — On leaving the Yang-tse, the wind will be rarely
found as far to the eastward as N.E. ; it is best, therefore, to keep the ship
on the starboard tack, remembering that she will be set to the eastward
towards Yan Diemen Strait, after passing which, pursue the same route as
directed in the passage from Hong Kong.

DUEING THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON.— Hong Koxg to Yedo.—
A vessel bound from Hong Kong to Yedo should run up the China coast aa
far as Tung Ying, then shape a course for Akusi Sima, one of the Linschoten
group. On passing the meridian of 125'' E. the set will be strong to the
north-eastward. Pass through any of the channels between the islands
South of Japan in preference to Yan Diemen Strait, as the dense fogs which
hang over the coast at this season render the navigation of this strait diffir
cult, whilst farther seaward, when in the warm stream of the Kuro Siwo,
the atmosphere is bright and clear. After passing the channel steer to make
the lights at Oo Sima, remembering the current sets along the coast of Japan
to the north-eastward at this season from 2 to 4^ knots an hour. After
passing Oo Sima at a distance of from 5 to 10 miles, steer for Mikimoto (Eock
Island) light. If bound from Hong Kong to Nagasaki, after leaving Tung
Ying steer for Meac Sima, passing between which group and the Pallas
Rocks, a course E.N.E. 80 miles will place the ship off the lighthouse on
Signal Head (the North point of Iwo Simaj at the entrance to Nagasaki
Harbour, on nearing which it should not be brought to bear northward of
E.N.E.

From Yedo to Hong Kong. — This passage is so seldom made by sailing
vessels that very little is known of the best route to be pursued ; the follow-
ing, however, is recommended : —

On leaving the Gulf of Yedo shape a course to the south-eastward, to
cross the parallel of 30° N in about 145° E., and, passing East of St. Mar-
garet's Island, cross the meridian of 140° E. in lat. 21° N., thence steer
(with a favourable current) for the N.E. point of Luzon, on passing which
enter the China Sea, when a direct course may be shaped for Hong Kong,
taking care to allow for the drift-current setting to the N.E. at this season.
It may here be remarked, that this route lies directly across the paths of the
typhoons, which are prevalent in the tropics at this period.

This voyage is rarely made, as sailing vessels so take advantage of the
monsoons that they leave Hong Kong for the northern ports and Japan at

102 PASSAGES.

the commencement of the S.W. monsoon, and, remaining at the ports of the
latter islands until the monsoon takes oflF, leave for the South at the com-
mencement of the N.E. monsoon.

Steamers, however, run at all times between the two places, and at this
season usually on leaving Yedo Gulf, and, passing Mikomoto, keep well in
shore to Oo Sima, passing which they keep up the Kii Channel through
Isumi Strait and the Inland Sea. On passing Simonoseki Strait, if not
bound to Nagasaki, they keep to westward of the Goto Islands, and making
the Saddle Islands off the Yang-tse, keep close to the shore, and from thence
pursue the same course to the southward as vessels bound from Shaghae to
Hong Kong.

From Shanghae to Nagasaki. — On leaving the Yang-tse, steer to pass
between the Pallas Eocks and Meac Sima (Asses' Ears), which last is visible
in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles. The current will bo found setting
to the north-eastward through Korea Straits ; cai-e must be taken, therefore,
to avoid being set to the northward of Ose Saki, the South point of the Goto
Islands, as the current during the S.W". monsoon is often strong in this
locality. Passing the Amherst Eocks, a course E. f N. 390 miles will lead
midway between the Pallas Eocks and Ose Saki (Cape Goto).

The foregoing is a general account of the tracks most usually followed in
traversing the Indian Archipelago or the China Sea. The more particular
instructions for each locality will be found in their respective places here-
after.

In such a variety of routes there is necessarily some diversity of opinion
as to which is best, and this has not been lessened of late years by the
increased variety in the build and trim of the vessels employed in oriental
commerce. The route practicable and advantageous to the swift sailing
clipper cannot be followed by the heavy-laden and slow-sailing ship of
former years. In what is here given, these different routes are each given,
some from older authorities, some from recent experience. Some of the
best tracks have been avoided from our ignorance of their nature, and their
supposed dangerous character. This is fast disappearing before increased
kno^vledge, and it may be predicted that some settled system for the naviga-
tion wiU be established in the course of a few years.

PART IT,

DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS.

In the succeeding pages will be found a detailed description of the shores
and seas of the Indian Archipelago and China, commencing with the Strait
of Malacca, and proceeding thence southward and eastward in regular suc-
cession. This arrangement has been preferred to that of following a parti-
cular voyage in one direction, as the present exigences of Oriental commerce
require the subject to be considered in such varied aspects, that no other
than a strictly geographic arrangement can be applicable to every case. The
plan of the future pages will be thus readily understood.

Physical Geography. — The Indian Archipelago presents many remarkable
features, worthy of the consideration of the passing navigator, as some of ita
peculiarities will thereby become better understood. This subject was well
treated by Mr. Geo. W. Earl, and more recently, in its relation to animal
and vegetable life, by Mr. Alfred Russell Wallace.

The first great feature of its constitution is the line of active volcanoes
which encircle the whole of the north-western and most extensive area. A
line of spiracles and rugged mountains from which they issue may be fol-
lowed from Cheduba, in the Bay of Bengal, to the Andaman Islands, pass-
ing through the entire length of Sumatra, nearer to its S. W. coast ; is con-
tinued along the southern part of Java, and passes through the chain of
islands to the eastward, which are separated by narrow but very deep
channels. Thence past the North part of Timor towards New Guinea,
where it is met by another chain running from N.N.W., where it may be
traced along Kamscharka through the Kurile Islands, Japan, Loo Choo, and
the Philippines, after which it divides into two branches, the western passing
down to the Moluccas, &c., past Celebes, and joining the first-named line at
the West end of New Guinea, and hereabout its greatest efiects are evident,
in the fantastic forms it has given to Celebes and Gillolo and other islands.
These rise abruptly from immense depths,* and to this and other causes
may be attributed that want of fertility which characterises them : the rich soil
caused by the decomposition of the rocks and vegetation being washed away
from their arid surfaces into the deep ocean. The two lines of volcanic action

* H.M.S. 6Vja//e«/7er found a depth of 2,150 fathoms between Celebes and Gilolo, 2,550
fathoms off the S.W. end of Mindanao, and similar depths in most parts of her track from
Torres Straits through the Molucca Passage, Celebes and Sulu Seas, to Manila.

104 DESCEIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS.

thus united may be followed to the eastward along the North coast of New
Guinea, along the Louisiade Archipelago, to New Ireland along the Solomau
Group towards the New Hebrides, and may be seen in detached spots as far
as New Zealand, and the islands South of it.

This volcanic band is of a totally distinct character in its productions to
the other parts of the Archipelago. As in all other parts of the world, the
volcanic rocks, which are easily and rapidly decomposed by atmospheric in-
fluences, form a soil of unparalleled fertility when cultivated, although there
are few useful natural productions, unless the nutmeg be so considered. This
feature has attracted the numerous European settlements which are scattered
along the bases of these chains, where the sugar and coffee plantaions of
Java, and the spice groves of the more eastern islands, afford such materials
for commercial enterprise, which would seem to be almost illimitable. Mineral
treasures are not to be hoped for in these ranges ; the action of the volcanic
heat has so altered the character of the superimposed rocks, that they afford
nothing to the metallurgist.

The second great feature which may be noticed are those parallel lines of
primary rocks which trend in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction across the
archipelago, as well as in the countries of Asia to the northward, and across
the continent of Australia to the southward. The chain which forms the
backbone of the Malayan Peninsula is perhaps the most conspicuous of
these ; it may be traced southwards through Banka, &c. It is in this forma-
tion where the great deposits of metal are most abundant, or at least most
easily worked, as in the famous gold and tin mines of Malaya, and the
Banka tin mines. Sumatra, apart from its volcanic ridge, affords another
example of these primary ridges. A third traverses Cambodia, &c., showing
itself at Pulo Condore and the Natunas, and then reappears at the N.W.
end of Borneo, and is lost on the North coast of Borneo. Another passes
along the coast of Cochin China, traverses a portion of Borneo and the
southern part of Celebes. One feature of these ridges is the existence of the
teak tree, which only flourishes on them. When this important tree is
transplanted on to the rich volcanic soil, it languishes.

A third feature is the great banks which extend from Asia and Australia,
but do not join. This was first pointed out in their relation to their pro-
ductions by Mr. Windsor Earl. He says : These banks of soundings, which
extend from the continents of Asia and Australia, form very remarkable
features in the geography of this part of the world, and, as such, are de-
serving of more attention than has hitherto been bestowed upon them, since
it will be found that all the countries lying upon these banks partake of the
character of the continents to which they are attached; while those which
are situated on the deep sea which separates them are all of comparatively
recent volcanic formation, with the exception of a few small coral islands,
which are in all probability constructed upon the summits of submerged

DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS. 105

volcanoGS. The depths on these banks average about 30 fathoms, deepening
rapidly as the ed^e is approached, and shoals gradually toward the land.
The great Asiatic Bank extends into the archipelago to a distance of nearly
1,000 miles; in fact, to within 50 miles of Celebes, and perhaps farther.

The great bank which fronts the North and N.W. coasts of Australia
commences near the N.W. cape, and extends in a N.E. direction to New
Guinea, where it terminates at the base of the high but narrow mountain
range that unites the western with the eastern part of that great island, and
separates the Banda Sea from the Pacific. It is at this point that the edge
of the bank is most remote from Australia, its edge being 400 miles distant
from it. It appears ap:ain on the South coast of New Guinea, near Torres
Strait, and extends along the N.E. coast of Australia.

The Arru Islands and New Guinea are thus united to Australia, and
possess in common some features hitherto supposed to belong exclusively to
Australia, such as the kangaroo, «S:c.

The volcanic islands between these great shoals appear to have a world of
their own, different from the countries on either side. This remarkable
feature cannot be dilated on, but may be followed in the excellent papers
given by Mr. A. R. Wallace. It would seem as if the animal life especially
belonged to a different order generally from that found on the neighbouring
continents, and is even different between adjacent islands, so that these
anomalies have given rise to some interesting speculations.

Respecting our knowledge of the coasts and seas, it is of varied character.
Although much more perfect than it was a few years since, there are some
serious defects in the hydrography of the archipelago, especially in the
eastern portion of the area. The surveyors of the East India Company in
former years, and our Admiralty hydrographers in later times, have examined
the principal passages leading into the China Sea, as the StrHits of Malacca
and Singapore, Banka, &c. The Dutch Government have given charts and
directions for the ct;untries adjacent to these possessions, such as Sunda
Strait and the coasts of Java, and the nautical world owes much to the
Dutch commission for the improvement of charts and navigation. Under
the auspices of this body a fine series of charts, of various and extensive por-
tions of the archipelago, were published. These have since been mostly copied
by our Admiralty. For the Spanish possessions in the Philippine Islands,
&c., we have the older and modern surveys of that nation. The coast of
China has been excellently surveyed by our Admiralty. All these authorities
will be generally enumerated in the course of the ensuing pages.

Before proceeding with the descriptions, we must make our general ac-
knowledgement of indeotedness to the China Sea Directory, published by the
Admiralty. This work, derived from many sources, gives a correct picture
of our present knowledge, and is therefore deserving of all confidence.

I. A. P

CHAPTER III.

THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

This great highway into the China Sea may be considered to be limited on
the N.W. by a line joining Acheen Head and the South point of Junksey-
lon, which would be about 225 miles in length ; and from this limit to the
Carimon Isles, at its S.E. end, is 500 miles, so that it has more the character
of an inland sea than a channel between Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula.
In a more contracted sense it may be said to commence at Diamond Point on
Sumatra, and Pulo Penang on the Malayan side, and these are 164 miles
apart East and West.

The monsoons, interrupted by the high land of Sumatra on the one hand,
and that of the Malay Peninsula on the other, each crossing the line of their
normal direction, are only felt for a short distance within the respective en-
trances, and from its position so near to the equator, the strait is subject to
baffling and light winds and calms. In a former page the peculiarities of
the winds and seasons have been referred to.

Its coasts have not been completely surveyed, but partial examinations
have been made by Lieuts. Woore, W. Eose, and Capts. Moresby and C. Y.
Ward. The charts, it is believed, are sufficiently complete for the safety of
its navigation, which, under proper precaution, is free from danger.

The British Possessions, called the Straits Settlements, are the Province
Wellesley, a strip of coast on the Malay Peninsula, about 10 miles broad
and 35 miles long, at the back of Pulo Penang^ also a British possession,
a patch of country, 22 miles in length from North to South, with the island
of Pancore lying off its southern portion, as hereafter described. The terri-
tory of Malacca, about 40 miles in length, and 25 miles in mean breadth,
•with its capital of the same name, and the great commercial emporium
Singapore. These form a governorship, which, till the year 1S51, was sub-
ject to the jurisdiction of Bengal. In that year it was placed under the
Indian Board ; and on January 1st, 1867, it was transferred from that of
India to the Colonial Office, and some changes were made in their constitu-
tion. Each of these settlements is largely peopled with Chinese immigrants,
who are the most industrious of the people. The Malay States from North

PENANG. 107

to South are named as follows — Quedah (Wellesley), Perak (Dinding), Sa-
langore (Malacca), and Johore. The maritime population of these would be
formidable pirates, were it not for the vigilance of the states cruizers, and gun-
boats of light draught, which can follow the delinquents into the shelter of
their rivers. Notwithstanding this, small vessels and boat parties should be
on their guard, as among a population of this character, where morality is
at so low an ebb, it is only a fear of being overpowered in the attempt, or
found out and punished after the act is committed, which deters them from
similar acts of violence to those committed in years gone by.

In recent years British Residents have been placed as advisers to the rulers
of the different native states, and it is hoped by these means to increase the
trade and otherwise improve the government of the peninsula.

The greatest mineral production of the country is tin, which seems to be
met with in almost every part of the interior, and in very great abundance.
The tin districts which have been most worked of late years are situated at
Klang, in Salangore ; at Laroot, in Perak ; and at Linghie, near Malacca.
"The mines in these districts," says Mr. Braddell, in 1874, "are so rich,
and the profit of working them has been so great, that, notwithstanding the
difficulties in dealing with the Malay chiefs as to the royalty to be paid, and
notwithstanding the oppression of the chiefs, and the frequent massacres of
the Chinese miners, they are still attracted to the place, and succeed yearly
in sending large quantities of tin to Singapore and Penang."

THE EASTERN COAST.

Province Wellesley extends from the state of Queda, or Keddah, on the
North to the river Krean, or Karian, S.E. of the South point of Penang.
In 1851 its population was 64,801, a number five times as great as in 1824 ;
and in 1873 it had reached to 160,000, of whom about 450 were Europeans.
It resembles Penang in its geologilal structure, granite, over which is found
the cellular clay iron-stone, so abundant in these regions, and known by the
name of laterite.

The settlement produces sugar, rice, and cccoanuts in abundance, and
among many other products a great variety of delicious fruits. Its chief im-
portance, however, arises from the fact, that the capital of the island is
a great emporium for the manufactures of Britain, and for the products of
the countries of the Malay Peninsula on the one hand, and of Sumatra on
the other.

PULO PENANG, or Prince of Wales Island, is about 14 miles long and
9 miles broad, and separated from the Malay coast by a channel from 2 to 5
miles broad. It is intersected by a range of granitic hills, the highest peaks

108 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

of which are Government Hill, to the West of the fort, 2,550 ft. ; West Hill,
2,713 ft. ; and Mount Elvira, near the centre, 2,384 ft. It was ceded by the
KingofQuedah to the East India Company, July— August, 1786, for a
naval station. It has answered every expectation of its founder, Captaia
Li"-ht, and is, like the other straits settlements, entirely free from any impost
on shipping.*

Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, is justly termed the Eden of the
East, and the northern part especially is an immense spice garden. Fruit
and vegetables are in great abundance, and in fact all Eastern delicacies,
not forgetting the water, which may be considered the best in or out of the

straits.

The N.W. part of the island is lofty and irregular, but been from a distance,
as far as 20 leagues off, it has a regular oblong appearance. The West coast
forms a slender bay, with low wooded land reaching to the foot of the inte-
rior hills. The southern part of the island is lower. The town is on the
East side. The climate is hot, but considered healthy.

The exceeding magnificence of its mountain views, the richness and variety
of their component parts, and the coolness and transparency of the atmos-
phere which this country enjoys, give a freshness and elasticity to the mind
never e:5perienced in the sultry plains of India. It is almost inconceivable
how nature, in so small a compass, has contrived to crowd such a wonderful
diversity of pleasing objects. — Logan.

Tanjong Puchat Muka.— The N.W. point is in lat. 5° 28' 40" N., long.

* Port Rules, 1872. — The limits of the Port of Penang are as follows : —From an obe-
lisk built at Klarwey in a straight line to Bagan Jermal, along the western shores of
Province Wellesley, to an obelisk at Bagan Luar. and in a straight line to Penang Bridge,
thence along the eastern shores of Prince of Wales Island, to the obelisk at Klarwey, in-
cluding the mouth of Prangin Eiver, as far as the second Teetee Papan Bridge.

The limits of the South Channel are as follows* — From the North bank of the Penang
Eiver to Nos. 8 and 5 red buoys, from thence along the eastern bank of Pulo Terajah to the
south-easternmost point of Pulo Rimo, thence in a straight line to No. 9 white buoj'^, then
passing close to Nos. 8, 7, 6, 4, and 2 white buoys, and in a straight line ending at the
obelisk built at Bagan Luar.

Signals in case of fire. — In the daytime, the Commercial Code signal of distress indicated
by " NC :" at the same time, when possible, two guns should be fired, at an interval of one
minute ; at night time, two rockets fired, and two blue lights burned alternately at an in-
terval one one m.nute, and two guns fired as in the daytime.

Requiring the assistance of the Police. — In the daytime, the national ensign to be hoisted
at the main-masthead ; at night, one gun to be fired, and one blue light burnt.

Masters of vessels are prohibited from anchoring abreast of the jetty, or in any place
within 250 yards on either side thereof.

Vessels remaining upwards of 24 hours are to moor and keep a clear hawse. No sailing
vessel is to be unmoored or shifted about without permission from the harbour-master, and
on no account after dark, except in case of emergency.

PENANG. 109

100° 13' E. It is bokl-to on the westward, and has 4 fathoms close-to. From
it, on the eastern side, a shoal bank skirts all the North end of the island for
11 miles to the point on which Geora:e Town stands, the 3 -fathoms edge
being from 1 to 2|- miles off shore. At 3J miles East of Muka Point is the
Feringi Bock, close in-shore, and at 3J miles farther is Fulo Tikus (or Tee-
coos), a rocky islet with some rocks around. Between this islet (on which,
is a white obelisk) and the Malay shore is the shoalest part of the channel
"which insulates Penang, not having more than 4 fathoms.

George Town, or Penang. — The chief place of the island stands on its eastern
point, the extremity of which is occupied by Fort Cornwallis. It contained
probably nearly 60,000 inhabitants in 1873, of whom a very large propor-
tion are Chinese — many of them merchants and shopkeepers. It is situated
on a low plain stretching out in a point into the sea, on the side of the island
next to the mainland, and its harbour, which is simply the almost landlocked
strait between the island and the mainland, is of great extent and unrivalled
calmness. It has always a large fleet of vessels of every rig, from the finest
British steamer to the Chinese junk.

The distance from the fort to the mainland opposite is about 2 miles, and
this forms the harbour. The Fort Point is steej)-to, having 9 and 10 fathoms
near to it. In the middle of the strait are from 12 to 15 fathoms, and 6 to 7
fathoms on the Malay side. The best berth for anchoring is about a quarter
of a mile South of the fort, in 9 or 10 fathoms, or less for small vessels. The
tides are more regular here than close to the point, where they cause eddies.
It is high water off the fort at 12'*, at full and change, but the flood runs
southward till 3 o'clock in the main stream. Springs rise 9 ft., and neaps
about "il ft.

Channels. — Mr. J. G. Maddock remarks: — "Both the northern and
southern channels are safe, the northern shallows being well marked by
fishing stakes, numbers of which are in 4 to 5 fathoms water. I have often
passed between them, but a stranger having any regard for his copper ought
to give them a good offing, as there are many old stakes broken off 2 or 3 ft.
under water. The southern entrance is well buoyed, and also marked by
beacons ; but unless you have a good commanding breeze from the southward
or S.W., which is not often the case except in the first of the rainy season
(August and September), and if coming from the southward, I should always
prefer the northern channel. I recollect once coming up with the A. J. Kerr,
from Singapore. I had a good stiff breeze from the southward and westward,
which I made available for the southern entrance. I had got to within
half a mile of my anchorage when I was met by a northerly wind. I gave
orders to clew up and anchor, and left the two winds to battle the match
how they liked ; in the morning I found the northerly wind had gained the
day : this is not an uncommon occurrence in the southern channel."

The best route to reach the anchorage, as above stated, is by the North

110 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

channel. The southern one is intricate and also dangerous without an inti-
mate knowledge, and with a large ship. With westerly winds, steer for the
North end of the island, or with the wind from N.E. or northward, make for
the mainland to the northward, and approach Pulo Bunting from N.W. by W.
or W.N.W. The Bunting (or Boonting) Isles are four in number, with an
islet between them, lying about 12 to 15 miles North from Penang. The
largest is the northernmost, and is opposite to the peak of Quedah ; and the
southernmost is Bidan, or Biddan, which is nearest to the shore, and has only
2 or 2|^ fathoms inside of it. By night these islands may be neared to
within depths of 14 or 15 fathoms; by day there is no danger but what may
be seen. When past them, steer about S.S.E., with Pulo Bidan bearing
about N. by W., keeping about midway between the North part of Penang
and the paain to avoid a flat extending off the Malay shore, and also that
which encircles the North end of Penang, as before mentioned. The bar, or
shoalest part of the channel, will be found when abreast of Pulo Tikus, and
is only 24 ft., barely sufficient if there be any swell, which seldom occurs, if
the draught be more than 20 ft.

The Port Point is 3^ miles to the S.E. of Pulo Tikus, which, as before
stated, has some rocks around it ; but having passed it, the water deepens
towards the harbour. The N.E. shore of the island forms a slender bay, filled
with a muddy shoal, which suddenly drops from 2 to 5 fathoms. The lead
is not a sufiioient guide in thick weather, or at night, in passing over the
flat between the N.E. point and the Malayan shore, as the depths are
nearly the same all across until within 1^ mile of either shore. The shore of
the main land is low, and covered with trees, so that it is not so conspicuous
as the high land of Penang, which will thus appear the nearest when in
mid-channel. From within Pulo Tikus to the fort, stand off again when 5^
or 6 fathoms is reached. By daylight there is no difficulty in thus reaching
the harbour, as the rocks of Pulo Tikus are bold-to. In the N.W. monsoon
which sets in in August, there may be some difficulty in beating out by this
North channel, but at all other times it is preferable for large ships. A good
leading mark is to keep the West end of Pulo Jerajah, which lies off the
East coast of Penang, clear of, or just open of the point on which Fort Corn-
wa)lis is built. This will carry you clear of all danger, the least water being
4J fathoms, mud and sand. Should you not see Pulo Jerajah, owing to hazy
weather, the long leading mark is as before mentioned, Pulo Bidan, the
southernmost of the Bunting, bearing N. by W. until you get sight of Pulo
Jerajah.

The South Channel, though intricate, is very serviceable during adverse
winds, as it affords a ready outlet in fine weather to the southward for ships
drawing under 17 ft. water. Pilots are stationed at Pulo Jerajah. It is
bounded on the West side by the Middle or Long Sand, marked by three
buoys along its eastern side, which begins about three-quarters of a mile

PENANG. Ill

South of the Fort Point, and stretches nearly to the North point of Pulo
Jerajah. On the East side it is bounded by the northern spit of the Great
Kra Flat, or as it was termed the Praya (or Pry) Sand. It is a bank of
soft mud, which stretches from the Malay shore for 10 miles, when to the
South of Penang.

Pulo Jerajah, or Jeraga, is 5 miles S. by W. from Fort Point, and is 734 ft.
high. It has a narrow channel of 3 to 5 fathoms between it and Penang.
Off the S.E. point of Penang is Pulo Peine, or Ramio, close to the South of
which the channel passes.

Buoys. — The South Channel is marked by ten buoys, numbered from
North to South, each placed red on the western, and white on the eastern
edge of the channel, in about 2 fathoms of water. Of these, three painted
red mark the eastern edge of the Middle Bank ; and six, painted white, the
western edge of the Great Kra Flat; a fourth red buoy lies S.W. of Eomo
Island. No. 1, a red buoy, is moored on the North end of the Middle Bank,
a mile southward of Fort Cornwallis. No. 2, white, S.S.E. ^ E. 1 J mile
from No. 1, marks the eastern side of the channel, which is here quite clear,
and nearly three-quarters of a mile in width. At 1 J mile below No. 2 buoy
the channel is marked on either side by red buoy No. 3 and white buoy No.
4, which are two-thirds of a mile apart; hereabouts the soundings suddenly
decrease from 6 to 2f , 3 and 4 fathoms, the deepest channel being nearer to
the white buoy. At about three-quarters of a mile below Nos. 3 and 4, Nos.
5 red and 6 white, three-quarters of a mile apart, mark the opposite sides of
the channel. The deepest part of the channel here is towards No. 6, as a
spit projects out from the red buoy. No. 7 white buoy, 1 J mile S. by W. ^ W.
from No. 6, marks the eastern side of the channel opposite the highest part
of Pulo Jerajah. Hence to the southward the channel is broad and deep.
No. 8 buoy, white, marks its eastern side, and lies 8. by E. \\ mile from the
South end of Pulo Jerajah. No. 9, red, marks the western side of the
channel, 2 miles S.W. of Pulo Eemo ; and No. 10, white, marks the eastern
side at its South extremity, and lies IJ mile southward of No. 9 red buoy.

In leaving Penang Harbour by the South channel, get under weigh about
half flood, and steer S. by E. and South to enter the channel between the
Middle Sand and the Pry or Praya Sand. When the bar is neared, keep
near the eastern edge of the Middle (or Long) Sand, the depth in crossing
it is nearly 5 fathoms, between the North end of Pulo Jerajah and Kra
Flat. When the North point of Pulo Jerajah bears to the northward, the
soundings will decrease to 6 and 7 fathoms, then haul near to that island,
and these depths will continue through the channel in steering out to S.W.
seaward, past the S.E. point of Penang and Pulo Eemo. The greatest
depths are near the East sides of these islands, which are steep-to, but on the
East side of the channel the water shoalens suddenly upon the edge of the
Kra Flat. After passing Pulo Eemo close on the East side, the course is

112 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

about S.S.W., or S. by W., according to the set of the tide, to proceed throngh
the channel fairway between the Kra Flat on the port hand, and the mud
bank off the South end of Penang to starboard. The leading mark is to
keep the body of Pulo Jerajah on with the East end of Pulo Eemo, if Pulo
Jerajah is shutting in with Pulo Eemo, a ship will be on the West side ; and
if entirely open with it, she will be on the East side of the channel.

The mouth of the River Krian is in about lat. 5° 16' N. This river serves
as one of the roads down which the tin is brought from the mines in the
interior.

The State of Perak,* extends along the coast from Wellesley Province
to the State of Salangore, or from 1 to 2 miles southward of the mouth of the
Kutong Eiver to the mouth of the Bernam Eiver, a distance of about 100
miles. A portion of this coast line, however, belongs to Great Britain,
having been ceded in the year 1826, and the cession again ratified in the
year 1874. This includes the Island of Pancore, or Binding, and coast of
the mainland at the back of the island, and thence for about 20 miles to the
northward. The Bruas and Binding Eivers enter the sea within its bound-
aries.

The district of Laroot is situated to the northward of this British territory,
and is bounded on the North by the Krean Eiver. The physical aspect of
the district is thus described by Mr. Birch : — " From the sea-shore to some
20 miles inland, Laroot is a great level ; here it begins to rise in uplands
until it reaches a mountain-range rising to an altitude of some 3,000 ft.
above the level of the sea. This level or plain is well watered and well
suited for the cultivation of sugar, tapioca, tobacco, &c. Eice is the only
cereal now cultivated. The whole of the land, comprising a strip of about
50 miles long by 6 miles broad, along the Laroot Eange, is more or less
stanniferous, and the supply of tin is inexhaustible. At present (1872)
about 4 square miles are occupied for mining purposes, and there are 120
mines open. It is unskilfully worked, and only about 600 tons were exported
in 1874. Of the Laroot Eange, Gunong Buboo, or the 'Wild Man,' is said
to be the loftiest. It is said to be the most conspicuous landmark to mariners
beating up the Straits for the mouth of the Perak Eiver, which is several
miles South of this mountain."

The population of the State of Perak, which extends eastward as far as
the Malayan chain of mountains, was estimated to number 25,000 in 1874,
mostly established near the shores of the Perak Eiver, which passes through
the country in a direction from North to South at a distance of about 30
miles from the coast. It is from this Eiver Perak or Pera (silver) that the
country takes its name. The country is plentiful in fruit-bearing and timber-

* Pronounced like " Pera," the terminal k in Malay -words being scarcelj' sounded
at all.

MALA.Y COAST. 113

producing trees, among the latter class being the teak. India-rubber and
gutta-percha trees are also found. In minerals, iron, saltpetre, and gold,
ai*e found, besides the tin before mentioned.

Pry River enters the sea on the southern side of the point, lying E.S.E. of
Peuang, Here it is high water, full and change, at 12\ Springs rise 9 ft.,
neaps 1^ ft.

The Kutong River, in lat. 5° 6' N., is merely a southern outlet to the Eiver
Krean, and flows along the South side of the North Mound.

The River Laroot, rising in the neighbourhood of Gunong Hijau in the
Laroot Eange, falls into the Sea in 4° 44' N., 28 miles to the S. of the Krean
River. Mr. Irving says : — *' Compared with other rivers on the coast, it is
an inconsiderable stream, as the range of mountains which forms the
watershed of the peninsula, at' this place, approaches the coast. The
colonial steamer Pluto, drawing only 6 ft. of water, was not able to do more
than enter the river ; but the small steamers belonging to the Tunku Man-
trie, or headman, are able to get up to the town, a distance of 2 miles from
the coast." The town, in 1872, was surrounded with stockaded positions,
and Mr. Irving observed that there was an excellent road all the way to the
mines in the Laroot Eange, about 10 miles from the town. The coast of
Laroot between the Kurow, 20 miles northward of the Laroot Eiver, and
the Jurom Mas (or Gold Needle), 12 miles to the southward, is a perfect
network of rivers and rivulets, and indented by endless creeks and bays,
which afford countless sheltering places for pirates. Most of these creeks
and inlets have been explored by the boats of the Thalia and the Midge,
when in search for pirates in 1872, under Captain Woolcombe.

The Kurow Eiver enters the sea in 5° N., and 10 miles south-eastward of
it is the mouth of the Silensing. This latter river is connected with the six
outlets to the sea between it and the Jurom Mas Eiver, in lat. 4° 33' N.
These outlets are named in order, Besar, Kechil, Larut, Trong, and Jurom
Mas. About 1 mile South of the Jurom Mas is the mouth of the small river
Hut. Between this and the mouth of the Bruas Eiver, which is situated 4
miles to the south-westward, is the northern boundary of the British
Territory.

At 16i^ miles S.E. by E. from the S.E. end of Penang is a hill, called the
North Mound, which is 5 or 6 miles South of the Krean Eiver, and at 13^
miles further to S.E. by E. is another called the South Mound. Further in-
land high mountains are seen, which extend to the southward.

The Coast is fronted by an extensive shoal, which commences in the strait
insulating Penang, and which. South of that island, is called the Great Kra
Plat, the 5-fathoms line being as much as 12 miles from the beach. This
extensive mud-bank, the produce of the many rivers, before mentioned,
which enter the sea from the adjacent coast, gradually bhoalens to the shore,

1. A. Q

114 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

leaving a wide space, which covers and uncovers with the tide, and continues
with varying break for 54 miles, till its outer edge comes close to the land at
Pulo Tallong, near the hills known as False Binding, or False Suggur. The
outer edge of the bank is steep-to, decreasing suddenly from 13 to 12 fathoms
to 2 or 3 fathoms, so that it would be imprudent to stand nearer than that
depth, even with the lead kept briskly going, especially in the night. There
is some advantage in keeping in with the coast, for by doing so the westerly
current usually prevailing in the ofRag will be partly avoided. The winds
will also be more favourable, and anchoring easier than in deeper water.

BINDING ISLAND, or PULO PANCORE, before mentioned as forming
a portion of British Territory, was examined together with the channel on
its eastern side by Commander Napier, in H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876. The
island is of irregular shape, 5 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 2
miles broad. Off its S.W. end is Little Binding Island, sheltering a bay ;
off its N.W. end runs a narrow promontory, 1^ mile long ; and midway be-
tween the promontory and Little Dinding Island a narrow island 1^ mile long
juts out on its western side. The highest part of the island is 1,318 ft. high,
and situated about 2 miles S.E. of the N.W. point. On the North and
South extremes are two hills, respectively 748 and 992 ft. high. Two other
mountains rise near the centre of the island, and attain a height of more
than 1,000 ft.

Great Dinding Island is densely covered with jungle. The woods consist
of ebony, sandal wood, several varieties of gum, india-rubber, and palm-
trees, bamboo, and several native woods, some of which are similar to ma-
hogany ; coffee and cotton are also grown here. The whole of the woods
are farmed out by the colonial government at an annual rental. The popu-
lation in 1876 consisted of about 250 Bataks or Malayan native hill
tribes, and 100 Chinese. A Dutch fort formerly existed on the East side of
the island. Poultry, eggs, and occasionally pigs, may be procured at most
of the native villages at reasonable prices. Fish and fruit are plentiful ;
turtle in the season. Fresh water of good quality is plentiful at almost all
the villages, but owing to want of proper conduits can only be obtained in
small quantities.

North Entrance. — The passage between the North side of Pulo Pancore
and the main is divided into two channels by the North Bank, which shows
breakers in places. This bank is 4 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction,
and from half a mile wide at its southern end, opposite the mouth of Din-
ding River, on the mainland, to 1^ mile wide at its North end, near which
lies Wedge Rock, 3 ft. above water, N. by E. i E., If mile from North West
Islet, which lies 5 cables N. by W. h W. from the North point of Pulo Pan-
core, is wooded, 100 ft. high, and difficult to discern until close. A 3-feet
rock lies nearly a cable off its West side, otherwise it is steep-to all round.

BINDING ISLAND. 115

A smnll islet, 7 ff. liigli, lies iu the channel nearly midway between North
West Islet and Pulo Pancore.

Between the North Bank and the bank skirting the shore there is a chan-
nel, suitable for vessels of not more than 10 ft. draught of water; but the
passage is difficult, and should not be attempted without local knowledge.
Pass Tanjong Hantu, a projecting point, 11 cables N.E. by N. of Wedge
Island, at about 2 cables distant on a S. ^^ E. course, after which steer
S.S.E. ^ E. ; this course will lead direct to the centre of Dinding Eiver
passage, and in not less than 4 fathoms water. H.M.S. Nassau, drawing 13
feet, passed through the channel at three-quarters flood.

The channel westward of North Bank is not recommended for vessels of
large draught, for although with care and attention not less than 4 fathoms
water will be obtained, the passage is narrow, being only 2 cables wide in
the narrowest parts, and the leading marks are not of the best description.
The eye, however, is the surest guide.

Give a wide berth to North bank, the western limit of which bears North
from the N.W. point of Pulo Pancore. To clear this and the outlying 3-
fathoms patch 7 cables W.S.W. of Wedge Eock, the North peak of Pulo
Pancore should not be brought to bear southward of S.E. ^ S. North West
Islet will be sighted ahead on this bearing, and passing it on the starboard
hand at half a cable distant, steer E. by S. f S. for Offlying Rock, 2 ft. high,
near North Point. Between North-west Point and North Point, which are
3 cables apart, a rocky bank projects 1^ cable to the northward, at the ex-
tremity of which is Grasshopper Islet, 120 ft. high and wooded. Pass Off-
lying Rock also on the starboard hand, at half a cable distant ; then alter
course quickly to starboard, and bring the summit of North West Islet to
bear W. by N. f N., and midway between Offlying Rock and North Point.
This mark will lead a cable North of Bower Patch, and 1 cable South of a
projecting part of North Bank. When Scorpion Point (which forms the
eastern entrance point of the large bay indenting the North side of Dinding
Island) bears S. W., alter course to starboard, and bring Table Rock, lying
near a point, and 22 ft. high, to bear S. by E. i E. ; then steer 6 or 8 cables
to pass the latter one, or 1^ cable distant ; and thence, preserving the same
distance from the island, to the anchorage off Port Pancore.

Charyhdis Rock, a pinnacle having a depth of 2 ft., lies North IJ cable
from Scorpion Point. The 2-fathom bank surrounding it extends a quarter
of a cable farther North. The ground is foul between Charybdis Rock* and
Scorpion Point.

Shoal water of 1 to 17 ft. extends a distance of 2^ cables to the N.E. and
East of Scorpion Point, and also fills the bay formed to the N.E. of Table
Rock.

Boiver Patch, having a depth of 15 ft., is nearly circular, about half a mile
in diameter, and lies N. by W. J W., 3 cables from Scorpion Point. The

116 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

summit of North-west Islet, in line with North Point, leads on to Bower
Patch. The summit open of North Point, and bearing W. by N. | N., leads
North of Bower Patch in 4 fathoms least water.

If bound to Binding Rivei*, keep North West Islet bearing "W. by N. f N.,
and when Scorpion Point bears S.W., sheer out a little to the southward, to
give the S.E. extreme of North Bank a wider berth, and bring the leading
mark on again before the tongue of South Bank is approached.

The South Channel lies between the eastern side of the island, which is al-
most steep-to, and the bank which extends about a mile off the main.

Fairway Rock, 27 ft. high, lies S. by W. J W. Sf miles from the S.E.
point of Pulo Pancore ; a sunken rock, having less than 6 ft. water, lies half
a cable from its North side, and a depth of 4 fathoms near the West side of
the rock. There are 9 to 1 6 fathoms water between the rock and the main-
land, and 10 to 23 fathoms between the rock and Pulo Pancore.

Pulo Katta, N.E. by E. 3^ miles from Eairway Rock, is a small wooded
islet, 114 ft. high, standing on the edge of the bank near Tanjong Katta,
and is separated from the mainland by a shoal and rocky passage 3 or 4
cables wide.

To reach Port Pancore from the southward, having passed Fairway Roi k
and Pulo Katta, steer to bring Table Rock in line with Tanjong Hantu
bearing N. by W. \ W. : keep these marks in line, which will lead nearly
mid-channel to the anchorage off Port Pancore.

If wishing to enter Binding River, steer from the anchorage to pass Table
Rock 2 cables distant, and thence midway between East Bank and the island,
until the North summit of Pulo Pancore bears S.W. h S. ; then bring the
summit of North-west Islet bearing W. by N. | N. open of North Point,
and proceed on that course to the entrance of the river.

Abreast of Port Pancore there will be found secure anchorage for vessels
of large draught, and sufficient space for several vessels to moor. The best
berth is with the shore end of the pier bearing W.N.W., distant 3 cables,
in 8 fathoms, mud. In this berth the vessel will be distant 3 cables from the
edge of East Bank, the shoal which skirts the mainland adjacent. Bathing
is unsafe on account of the numerous alligators which swim across the
channel.

It is high water full and change in Binding Channel at S*" 15" ; springs
rise 9 ft., neaps 5 ft. The flood stream in the North entrance sets fairly
through the channel. In Binding Channel and South entrance the ebb seta
N.N.E., and flood S.S.W., at the rate of 2 to 3 knots at springs.

To the S.W. of Pulo Pancore the flood sets S.E., and ebb N.W., and sets
through the narrow passage between Pulo Pancore Laut and Pulo Pancore
at the rate of 2 to 3J knots at springs.

There is anchorage in the bays on the western side of Binding Island,

Binding River, perhaps the only river without a bar in Malacca Strait,

BINDING EIVER— PEEAH EIVEE. 117

has a deep and clear entrance, which between Mehegan and Motts Points is
8 cables wide. A channel 3 cables wide, and having: 5 to 9 fathoms, extends
3 miles up the river, the farthest point reached by the surveying parties.
The water shoals more gradually towards the North shore than to\vards the
South, which is rocky. Yellow Cliff, 14 ft. high, and Bed Cliff, 26 ft. high,
both on the South side of the river, are conspicuous. On the North shore of
Binding Eiver, at the West side of the entrance of Sungie Sumpit (small
river) is situated a police station, a conspicuous bungalow standing on a spit,
and easily recognised by the palm trees westward of it. On the South shore
of Binding Eiver, opposite the police station, is a native village. The flood
and ebb tides set at the rate of 3^ knots at springs, and 2 knots at neaps.
Birections for approaching it from the Binding Channel are given previously.

The southern boundary of the British territory is in the bay 2 miles East
of Pulo Katta.

The Sambilang Islands are 8 miles South of Binding. They are so called
from the Malay word for nine, their number. They are generally high and
bluff, covered with trees, and visible 20 miles off.

The White Roch, 15 ft. high, is the south-westernmost of the Sambilangs,
and is in lat. 4° 0' 10" N., long. 100° 32' 15" E. The Blacli Roch, not very
high above the water, is 1 mile North from it. The Sambilangs are quite
bold-to, with very deep water, 15 to 46 fathoms, and very irregular bottom,
BO that the lead is no guide in approaching them. There is a safe channel
inside them.

The RIVER PERAH, or Perak,* is an extensive stream, and is much fre-
quented by the country vessels trading for tin. Mr. Birch, in one of his
last speeches made at Singapore, speaks about this river in these terms: —
" The river is a very magnificent one. At least 150 miles from the mouth,
it is over 400 ft. wide, and, as the tidal influence extends a very short dis-
tance from its mouth, it may be well imagined what rich and fertile lands
are to be found along its valley. The greatest resources of this fine district
lie in its soil, which is remarkably rich and suitable for the cultivation of
tobacco, sugar, or indigo."

A vessel entering Perah Eiver should close the North coast, and having
passed Pulo Katta, bring the South point of Pulo Pancore, or Great Bin-
ding, to bear N.W. by W. \ W., and nearly touching the North point of
Little Binding Island. This mark will lead over the bar in 11 ft. at half-
tide neaps, and 17 ft. at high water springs, and past the outer clump of

* It was at Passir Salah, a town on this river, about 70 miles from its mouth, that Mr,
Birch, the British Resident, met his death at the hands of the natives. The murder took
place in November, 1875, at a time of great excitement, caused by the struggles of two
rival claimants for the throne of Purah, after the death of Sultan Ali.

118 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

fishing-stakes at about three-quarters of a mile on the starboard hand ; the
bar is (January, 1876,) situated N.E. by E. from these stakes*

Keeping the same marks in line, a second clump of fishing stakes is passed
on the starboard hand about a quarter of a mile distant ; then alter course
gradually to starboard, and pass between this clump and another large clump
bearing E. by S. Passing the latter at a quarter of a mile distant, the vessel
should steer along the bank for the point on the North side of the entrance,
keeping about a half or three-quarters of a mile off shore, and passing out-
side some small fishing-stakes moored close to the bank, until the mouth of
the river is reached. Avoid the first point on the port hand, as there is a
long spit extending ofi" it, and steer over to the South or left bank of the
river, keeping it at a distance of 50 to 70 yards, as there is a slioal in the
centre of the river.

Between the entrance of the river and Kota Striah, distant 25 miles from
the bar, on the route recommended, soundings of 2^ to 5 fathoms will have
been obtained. There is anchorage off Kota Striah, in 3 J to 4 fathoms, stiff
mud, at 2^ cables from the shore.

Durian Sahatang, a town of eighty or ninety houses, the highest point
which may be reached by gun-vessels drawing 11 ft., is 43 miles from the
entrance. The trade, which is chiefly in tin, is in the hands of the Chinese,
and is carried on entirely by junks.

Bandar Bahru, the site of the British Residency, is estimated to be 19 miles
above Durian Sabatang. Kota-Lumut is the highest point steam launches
can reach.

Bernam River, 12 miles southward of Perah River, is the boundary be-
tween the States of Perah and Salangore. It has been for years the resting
place of pirates, but in 1870, after some severe fighting, they were dislodged,
and it is hoped that by an occasional visit of one of H.M. gunboats, the
practice may be checked for the future. The river extends about 150 miles
inland.

PULO JARRA lies in the middle of the Strait of Malacca, bearing S. ^ W.
78 miles from Penang, and 26^ miles W. by S. from the Sambilang Islands.
It is about 300 ft. high, very small, covered with trees, and may be seen in
all directions for 20 or 25 miles. It is very steep-to, the lead affording no

• In June, 1876, the Ringdove crossed the bar at high water neaps with the same marks,
and had 22 ft. least water. Also H.M.S. Maypie, crossing on the 26th of December, 1876,
had 25 ft. least water at one hour before high water ; the outer fishing-stakes bore S. by E.
The channel of deepest water is probably very narrow, and it may shift. Navigating-
Lieutenant Pownal Aplin, H.M.S. Modeste, 1876, remarks, that vessels of 9 ft. draught may
always enter at high water. Ships of greater draught should not attempt it except at
springs, unless in cases of urgency. The best channel in 1861 was 1 mile South of Pulo
Katta.

SALANGOEE. 119

indication of its proximity. The depths around it are from 14 to 48 fathoms,
with 25 to 30 fathoms in the channel between it and the Sambilangs ; and
from 30 to 40 in the channel between it and the Brothers, 39 miles to the
S.S.W. It is best to pass to eastward of it, because the current often sets
strong to theN.W. in the middle of the strait, and calms are more prevalent
there than nearer the coast. It is in lat. 3"" 58' 20" N., long. lOO'' 8' E.

SALANGORE,'^-' the capital of the Malayan State extending from Bernam
River tu Langat Eiver, lies within the entrance of a small river at 60 miles
fc>.E. trom Pulo Sambilang. The town was founded at the commencement
of the last century by a colony of Bugis from Celebes, and was at one time
frequented for tin, for which the Dutch had here an establishment and
monopoly. The fort on the South side of the entrance to the river is in lat.
3° 19' 50" N. ; there are also some forts on the northern shore. The river is
navigable at high water for vessels of some burden, and H.M.S. Rinaldo,
draught 15 ft. 4 in., entered here in July, 1871, to punish the natives for a
piratical attack which had been made in a junk from Penang, when thirty-
four persons were murdered. They found the bar 2 miles in width at high
water, and grounded at low water when anchored in front of the town.
Captain Bloomfield, who examined the river in 1871 up to where it ceases to
be tidal, at 22 miles from its mouth, reports that vessels drawing more than
1 ft. water should not attempt to enter the river until more accurate surveys
are made. H.M.S. Pluto ascended the river 13 miles, or to 1 or 2 miles
above Quedah. The spring tide was running very strong, with a rise and
fall of 15 ft. There is anchorage abreast of the river at 3| to 5 miles off
shore, in from 4 to 7 fathoms, with Cape Caran bearing N.W., and Pulo
Anza bearing S. by E., or S. by E. J E., about 9 miles distant. It is high
water, at full and change, about 5 hours.

The False Parcelar Hill, or BuTcit Jerom, is close to the shore, and 7
miles from Salangore. It is sometimes called the Hill of Salangore. In pass-
ing it, it scarcely seems higher than a clump of trees. Its sides are covered
with cocoa-nut trees, and its summit by a grove of senna trees. Off it lies a
line of islets and rocks, running to S.W. by 8. for 3i- miles. They were for-
merly called the Botel (or Bottle) Islands. The innermost is Fulo Besar, and
the outer one is Pulo Tekolo. At a mile, or further from it, is a rock, on
which the Calcutta brig was lost. It bears S.W. ^ S. from it, and should not
be approached too nearly ; there are 5 fathoms water close to it.

From the outer reef (sometimes also called the Sail Shoal), Pulo Anzas, on

* It is prohable that within a few years more trade may be done on the coast of Salan-
gore. Under the advice of the British Resident, the Sultan issued a proclamation in
March, 1876, declarint'- it illegal for any, save those properly authorized, to levy taxes on
merchandize. Hitherto vessels passing np and down the river have paid heavily to different
chiefs, who converted the mouty to their own use.

120 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

the opposite side of the channel, bears W. by S. 3 miles. There are two of
them standing upon the eastern edge of the shoal which limits the strait to
the westward. (They are the Mudancoos, or Mud and Goose, of the old
charts.) The bank and the islets are steep-to. The bank extends for 13
miles to N.W. by N. from them, and gradually shoalens from 2 and 3 fa-
thoms up to Pulo Colong (or Callam), the North point of which is 10 miles
S.E. by E. from the Pulo Anzas.

At 80 miles from the Sambilangs, and 30 miles from Salangore, is a pro-
jecting point, formed by the islands of Colong or Callam and Lamaut, for-
merly called Cape Coran, or Tanjong Aivat, or Mud Point. A shoal bank
fronts it for 2^ miles from it, and therefore caution is necessary. This bank
of sand and broken shells stretches for 15 miles to N.N.W., and is 6J miles
from shore. On its edge and between it and the shore, the depths are 5 and
4 fathoms, and as they decrease the bottom becomes hard. After the Sam-
bilangs disappear, the False Parcelar, or Hill of Salangore, will come in
sight to the S.E. by E., or rather more eastward. The ship will then be in
10 fathoms, green mud, and should steer along the coast to S.E. in not less
than 8 or 9 fathoms. When Cape Caran bears East, the beach may be neared
with safety, but should have a berth of 2 miles, after which the lead will be
a sufficient guide.

Pulo Colong, with Pulo Liimaut to the South of it, forms a channel called
the Strait of Callam, or Colong, which was formerly used by ships of mode-
rate draught in order to avoid the dangers of the North and South Sands.
It is still used by the local steamers. To the eastward of Pulo Lumaut two
rivers enter the Lumaut Strait. The Callang or Klang is said to be navigable
for vessels of light draught, 15 or 20 miles, as far as Damar, and for boats
by poling as far as the neighbourhood of the tin mines. Langat River enters
the strait at about 6 miles to the southward. To the northward of Par-
celar Hill, "in 2° 50' N., the river bifurcates, near Langat, the residence of
the Sultan and of the British Resident ; and a second mouth is formed on the
coast S.W. of Parcelar Hill, and named the Jugru River. Mr. Braddell
was on this river in 1874, and says that following the river from bight to
bif^ht they found 3 and 4 fathoms wherever they went. Mr. Irving, speak-
ing of the district says : — " It is a magnificent country, with a fine soil and
great mineralogical resources. It is watered and opened up by fine naviga-
ble rivers, which run up within easy distance of the richest tin districts,
situated in the watersheds of the Salangore, Klang, and Langat Rivers. It
only wants security for life and property, and a few easily constructed roads,
to make it burst out into exuberant life."*

* For further particulars, see a Paper in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,
yol. xlvi, 1876, by W. Barrington D' Almeida, on " The Geography of Perah and Salan-
gore."

THE STRAIT OF COLONG-. 121

The Strait of Colong, or Callam, is about 15 miles in length between the
islands, and has sufficient depth for moderate ships. It is not much used
now, the less so, as it is said that pirates have been found lurking in its
creeks.

Mr. Logan says : — The strait is like a large river or canal. The islands
between which it lies are merely flats, and formed of black mud, covered
with mangrove thickets. In steaming through it you see nothing but a wall
of thick mangroves on either side. Towards the northern extremity of the
thickets one place of considerable extent was quite naked, and covered with
flying foxes, which have settled here for many years. The strait is (or was)
used by the local steamers in passing between Singapore, Malacca, and
Penang.

The following are the old directions for those who would wish to follow
it:—

To run in for Salangore and the Straits of Colong, after you have rounded
the Sambilangs, steer away to the eastward E.S.E. or E. by S., and rise the
low land, coming no nearer than 8 or 9 fathoms, but do not rise the beach
from the deck. As you lose sight of the Sambilangs, you may see the hill of
Salangore, or False Parcelar ; steer in for it, keeping the above depth, you
"will soon after make the true hill, which appears like a grove of trees ; when
you come nearer you cannot mistake it, as it is the only hill near the water
side. In observing these directions, you will not meet with the shoal of
broken shells that lies to the N.W. of Salangore, and those which follow will
enable you better to avoid it.

When you can just discern Salangore Hill from the deck, bearing S.E. by E.
or S.E. by E. ^ E., you will have 10 or 11 fathoms, green oaze, with small
broken oyster-shells, at 5 or 6 miles from the nearest shore. The course
along shore is about S.S.E. 14 or 15 miles. The soundings on the shoal are
from 6 to 3 J, 5, 4, and 6|^ fathoms, with overfalls of 1, 2, and 3 fathoms at
a cast : as you deepen you will have soft ground, and the contrary as you
are shoaling. "When you have sailed the above mentioned distance, allow-
ing for the tides, Parcelar true Hill will be seen from the deck bearing
S.S.E. ^ E., distance from the nearest shore 7 or 8 miles, in 14 or 15 fathoms,
soft ground.

When you see the False HiU bearing S.E. by E. or S.E. by E. \ E. from
the deck, steer ofi" shore to the southward, until you lose sight of the white
sandy beach from the tafi'arel ; then steer to the S.E. along shore, taking
care not to raise the white beach, and that will carry you clear without the
shoal, in soundings not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When you have run the
above mentioned distance to the S.S.E., you may then with safety raise the
beach, or borrow on the shore ; but come not under 8 or 7 fathoms, soft
ground, as it shoals very fast from that depth until you are past Tanjong
Awat.

I. A. R

122 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

But to resume our instructions for sailing into Salangore. After you have
seen the low land beyond Tanjong Awat, you may be guided by the lead,
giving that point a berth of a mile, or 1^ mile, to avoid the shoal which
stretches from it. To run into Salangore Eoad, you keep the hill a little
open to the southward, and anchor a little to the northward of it, in 4 or
3^ fathoms, soft mud, as there is a shoal to the southward projecting 1^
mile.

Going to the Straits of Colong, steer for Pulo Anzas, and to the eastward
of them you will then see the entrance, or North mouth of the straits. The
Pulo Anzas are bold-to, but the islands, which are on the eastern side of
the channel, are the reverse. Off the southern or outermost island, Pulo
Tekolo, lies a dangerous rock, bearing from it S.W. ^ S. a mile distant, and
with 5 fathoms close to it. On the S.W. of the channel there is a sand-bank,
but on the other side it is mud. "When you are past the above islands, ap-
proach nearer the sand-bank than when you leave hard soundings ; on the
opposite part stand on at pleasure.

A little to the northward of the North entrance of the straits lies a shoal,
to avoid which, as well as to keep in the best channel, you are to keep the
Middle Botel Island in one with Salangore Hill, observing not to open the
hill to the eastward ; another leading mark is to keep Parcelar Hill on the
West point about its own breadth. After passing this shoal you may be
guided by the lead on this side, keeping in from 5 to 9 fathoms. There is
also another shoal in a line of direction from Mud and Goose Islands to the
West point, but of no great extent.

In working up the first reach there is no danger, having good water from
side to side, which at the upper end of the reach is very deep, with irregular
soundings from 12 to 22 fathoms. The opening that is on the port hand at
the bottom of this reach is the Eiver Colong or Klang ; opposite to which
is Deep-water Point, the South point on the starboard hand, of the first
reach.

The second is Bar Peach, which is clear while abreast of a creek on the
port side, opposite to which is the shoalest part of the bar ; before you come
up to this creek, you meet with another, which it is necessary to avoid, as
there is an indraught. It will be best to anchor about a cable's length, in 6
fathoms, before you cross the bar, as it shifts very much, and of course it is
requisite to sound. On our sounding we found 3 fathoms at low water the
greatest depth, which is a little more than a third over from the S.E. side :
you will carry 3 fathoms about twice the ship's length after being over. A
good leading mark is some low land just open with the first point ; you may
stand till it is two sails' breadths open, and close it on the other shore ; but
the best and safest mark for crossing the bar is to bring Deep-water Point to
bear N.E. J E. ; you may also be guided by the lead, which cannot be done
on the opposite side, being a bank steep to that extends along and across

PAECELAR HILL— THE NORTH SANDS. 123

about one-third over to the western point of the Third Eeach, and from thence
up to the northern extremity of a creek, in that reach, your soundings are
from 3 to 9 or 10 fathoms.

The bar is narrow, and begins at the entrance of the first creek, on the
S.E. shore, having the least water about half a cable's length to the S.W. ;
you then deepen it from 3 to 5 fathoms gradually, and will be abreast of the
second creek.* From this you carry not less than 5^ fathoms, about a large
cable's length from the port shore. Keep nearly that distance till you pass
Point Anna Grabs (so called from a small ship wrecked here), as it is shoal
on the starboard side, hard ground, with overfaUs. Indeed, you must avoid
for the same reason, the starboard shore, until you are beyond the second
opening to the sea.

The tide flows about 9 ft. in the springs.

PARCELAR HILL, or Bukit Jugru, a great leading mark, stands in lat.
2° 50' N., long. lOr 26' 10' E., 26i miles E. 7° S. from the lighthouse on the
One-fathom Bank, and 10 miles eastward from the southern entrance of the
Colong Strait. It is 890 ft. high, of oblong form, sloping at each end when
viewed from the westward, with the summit a little to the westward of its
centre ; but of a regular pyramidal form when seen from the southward or
S.S.E., with very gentle declivities in each direction. It is darker in appear-
ance than the neighbouring hills. In front of it, to the S.W., is the Jugru
mouth of the Langat River, before mentioned.

The NORTH SANDS, which lie ofi" the Malay coast between Salangore
and Parcelar Hill, are extensive and dangerous. Their north-western edge
is steep, and drops from 5 fathoms to 15 or 30 fathoms in 3 or 4 miles. They
have been surveyed by Captain Ross, and his chart shows them as several
parallel ridges of sand, trending fromN.W. and N.N.W. to S.E. and S.S.E.,
with deeper water, from 8 to 14 fathoms, between them. The north-western
edge of their most dangerous part lies 21J miles W.S.W. from Salangore.
These patches have from 4 to 18 ft. water, with 7 to 10 fathoms on either
side. They extend south-eastward for 18 miles, leaving a channel, 3 miles
in width, between their extremity and the shoal which extends from Pulo
Colong, and which has from 5 to 14 fathoms of water. The chart is the best
guide for their position and character, and the various patches need not be
enumerated, as it is difiicult or impossible to give clearing marks for them.

* After you pass the bar. Captain Elmore advises to " steer direct for the South point of
the Sea Reach, until the North point of that reach bears West by North, to avoid the wreck
of a large Portuguese ship, which bears West from that point, and lies on the eastern shore,
between Anna Grab Point and the bar ; when these bearings are on, and you are 2 cables'
lengths off shore, it is best to keep the eastern shore on board, to prevent the flood tide from
horsing you through the opening to seaward (which I call Sea Keach), where there is no
passage, being entirely choked with sand banks, dry at half ebb."

124 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

The Blenheim Shoal is one of the most dangerous of these shoals, and lies
on their western edge. It nearly occasioned the wreck of H.M.S. Blenheim,
when it was first discovered. It bears from One-fathom Bank light N. 15° W.
11 miles, and from Parcelar Hill W. 23° N. 31|^ miles ; Salangore Hill bears
from it N. 56° E. ; and another hill to the S.E. of it N. 66° E., lat. 3° 3' N.,
long. 100° 56' 15" E. It has only 6 ft. least water, and there are several
dangerous patches to the E.ist and N.E. from it. It is cleared so long as
Parcelar Hill does not bear northward of E.S.E.

It is high water at the N.W. head of the North Sands, on full and change,
at 6*" 30". Springs rise 12 ft., neaps 12i ft.

When the Round Arroa (presently described) is seen from the mast-head
(being 31 miles off), bearing S.S.W. to S.S.W. J W., you are on the N.W.
edge of these sands, and will pass over spits of 8 and 10 fathoms. As these
spits, which form the N.W. part of the North Sands, have 9 to 12 fathoms
on their outer edges, it is advisable, when bound to the southward in con-
trary winds, to keep near the western edges of the sands in working, making
short tacks to the westward, and standing in to 10 or 11 fathoms, in a large
ship, or to 8 and 9 fathoms in a small one. By this means moderate depths
will be found for anchoring during the ebb, with the tides more regular and
more favourable than further out in deep water. Eor here, during S.E.
winds, a current is often found to set W.N.W. and westward when tides are
prevailing along the edge of the sands. The strength of the ebb generally
sets between N.W. and N.W. by N. 2^ miles an hour, the flood in the oppo-
site direction, about S.E. ^ S., standing a little on the western edges of the
sands, or running nearly parallel with them, but it is not so strong as the
ebb.

The ONE-FATHOM BANK, which forms the S.W. part of the North
Sands, and is also on the North side of the channel between the North and
South Sands, was considered as the most dangerous shoal of the vicinity.
According to Lieut. Ward's survey, it is about IJ mile N.N.E. to S.S.W.,
and 1 mile broad E.N.E. and W.S.W. It has 6 ft. least water. By keeping
Parcelar Hill E. % S., the North end will be cleared, andE. \ S. the southern
edge will be passed safely.

The Lighthouse, on screw iron piles, is painted in stripes of red and slate-
colour. It is placed on the centre of the bank, in 15 ft. water, half a mile
S. by E. of the position occupied by the lightvessel previous to May, 1874,
when a revolving bright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every minute,
was first exhibited from the lighthouse. It is shown at 61 ft. above the sea
level, and visible 13 miles off. Its position is in lat. 2° 52' 8" N., long.
100° 59' 2" E.

A red huoy marks the North end of the bank. It lies in 14 ft. water, at 1^
mile N.W. from the lighthouse.

THE AEEOA ISLANDS. 125

There is a safe channel between the One-Fathom Bank and the Blenheim
Shoal, but there is a small 21 -feet bank midway between them, with 7 to 16
fathoms around it. It lies 6^ miles N. by W. I W. from One-Fathom Bank
lighthouse ; and a second bank of similar depths lies 2 miles S.E. of it, and
4 miles N. ^ E. of the lighthouse. Parcelar Hill bearing E. by S. i S.,
nearly, is the best course to pass between these banks and the One Fathom
Bank. This channel has not been used by large ships, as the tides run in
strong eddies over the sands during spring tides. A better course is to
steer so as to pass southward of the lighthouse.

The ARROA ISLANDS form the western side of the main channel of the
Strait of Malacca past the North Sands. They are a group of small islets
and rocks on an extensive shoal which lies in the middle of the strait. The
northernmost of the cluster is the JV^orth Hock, in lat. 2° 55' 20" N., long.
100° 36' 5" E. It is of considerable height above the water, with regular
soundings very near the rocks that front it of 8 and 9 fathoms mud.

East Rock, or Batu Ifandi, is a flat black rock, very little above the surface
of the sea. It has deep water close on its eastern side. It lies somewhat oflf
the mud bank, as it has a deep channel of 17 fathoms three-quarters of a
mile wide to the West of it, between it and a line of sunken rocks, covered at
half flood, on which the sea breaks at times.

The Htffh Rock, or JBafu Balia, lies 2 miles West from the sunken reef just
mentioned. It is surrounded by other rocks, and there are 9 fathoms in the
space between, with 7 to ] fathoms in the channel West of it.

Pulo Jummur, the Great or Long Arroa, is the largest of the group. It
consists of two islands nearly joined, is covered with trees, flat, and is nearly
3 miles S.W. by S. from the North rock. It is nearly a mile long, and the
shores appear to be lined with rocks, and a re*/ extends to the N.E. from it
for about three-quarters of a mile. The Malay fishermen come here for fish
and turtle. Boats landing should therefore be on their guard. Water can
be got in a cove with a good sandy beach, on the East side of the South isle.
Several springs of good water fall into the deep valley. The Western Arroa
is a group of islets and rocks lying about a mile to the westward of the Lono-
Arroa, and on the same rocky bank.

The Round Arroa, or Pulo Tukong Simbang, the chief mark for the channel
to the eastward, is very small, high, round, and has a tuft of trees on each
side of it. It may be seen 1 8 miles ofi". It has several rocky islets near it
two of which are visible 12 miles oS' ; one of these lies to the northward the
other to the southward, with straggling rocks around. The South Rock, or
Pulo Tukong, the southernmost islet or rock, above water, is IJ mile S.S.W.
from the Round Arroa.

The Arroa Islands should not be approached by night, as there is now
no necessity for it, since the light on the opposite side of the channel is

126 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

established. The currents and ebb tides set very strongly here, and might
horse you among them. Should a vessel be working near them against a
heavy N. W. swell, there is shelter from N.W. or westerly winds by anchor-
ing under the Long Arroa, guarding against the reef which projects a mile
to E.N.E. from its North end.

In sailing down the Malacca Strait from the northward, and having got
in mid-channel between Pulo Jarra and the South Sambilang, keeping to
the eastward to guard against the easterly tendency of the current, steer
about S.S.E. or S. 20° E. to keep well to N.E. of the Arroas, but not too far
on the North Sands. Excepting a shingly spot of 13 fathoms in lat. 3° 20' N.,
bearing South from the Sambilangs, the soundings are tolerably regular on
this track generally between 31 and 40 fathoms in the direct line. Should
the winds hang to the eastward or E.S.E., keep in with the Malay coast in.
from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 8 or 10 leagues past the Sambilangs; then steer
more southerly to get soundings of 16 to 18 fathoms on the N.W. face of the
North Sands, which may be rounded close, provided you do not come into
less than 14 or 16 fathoms, and then either the Arroa Islands or the light-
vessel, or Parcelar Hill, will come in view, and will be a further guide.

The SOUTH SANDS, like those forming the North Sands, are a series of
parallel spits which run E.S.E. and W.N.W., or more southerly in the same
direction as the Malay coast, and 13 or 14 miles distant from it. The main
channel on the North side of them having that breadth, and a depth of from
20 to 40 fathoms (with some exceptions), extends for 60 miles from the One-
Fathom Bank Light to Cape Eachado. The South Sands vary in width
from 2 to 6 miles. The northernmost dangerous patch, with 16 ft. water, is
102 miles S. by E. ^ E. from the lightvessel, and the south-easternmost is a
small patch of hard sand, named on the chart the Pyramid, with 6 ft. least
water. From it Cape Eachado appears like an island, bearing E. ^ S., and
from 5 to 9 miles further S.S.E. are several patches of 15 to 4 fathoms.
These eastern patches are the most dangerous part of the shoal of Malacca,
and require all caution. On the North side of the channel is the Bambek
Shoal, awash, which is 21 miles from Parcelar Hill, and 14 miles from Cape
Eachado.

The space between the Sumatran shore and the South Sands is full of
shoals and dangers, and should never be attempted.

It is high water at full and change at the One-Fathom Bank at 6 o'clock.
Springs rise 15 ft., and neaps 12 ft. The tide runs strongly at springs,
and then there are eddies on the spit which projects from the One-Fathom
Bank. Between the sand heads the strength of the ebb runs nearly N.W.,
but the commencement and end of it run very irregularly. The flood is
more regular in its direction, and runs with less velocity. The light
is found to be most useful in these strong tide ways, when, if the land

THE SOUTH SANDS. 127

be not visible, the navigation would be as formerly, very embarrass-
ing.*

The CHANNEL between the North and South Sands, which has been
known by the name of the East and West Channel, — a term probably derived
from the fact that the leading marks through it lay East and West of each
other. It is about 10 miles wide between the northernmost danger of the
South Sands and the lighthouse; and there is a 21 -feet patch at 7^ miles
S.W. by W. from the lighthouse, which requires caution.

In passing through this East and West Channel, having passed the Eound
Arroa and brought it to bear W.S.W., there is no danger from the North
Sands, so long as it can be seeii from the deck. Then steer an easterly
course away from it bearing W. J S. When the Eound Arroa sinks out
of sight, the lighthouse will come in view, as will also Parcelar Hill, bearing
about East. Bring the latter to bear about E. \ N., and you will pass
safely to the South of the One-Fathom Bank. A course with Parcelar Hill
bearing E. | S. will clear the bank. Having passed this, the channel within
the South Sands is open to the south-eastward. Parcelar Hill may at times
be obscured by clouds, when the low land at the entrance of the Strait of
Colong may be seen. If this piece of low land be kept N.E. by E. J E., or
its East end be brought to E.N.E., you will clear the banks in coming from
the eastward. This low land comes in sight when abreast of the One-Fathom
Bank, and from aloft the tops of the trees may be seen as far as Parcelar
Hill.

* Several wrecks having taken place on the South Sands, the following extracts from
remarks by Mr. G. J. Maddock (pilot) will prove useful ; — "I will now endeavour to give
an account of the chief cause of ships being lost on the South Sands. First, with respect
to the loss of the John Curry, Captain Tucker, in January, 1854. From the wreck, Par-
celar Hill bore N.E. by N. ; when conversing with Captain Tucker, and informing him
that the current and tide out of Calam Strait had been the cause of the loss of his ship, he
acknowledged that such must have been the case from the set which he noticed after the
ship had struck. About two months afterwards, a large Dutch Indiaman, the Menado, got
on shore under similar circumstances in the night, and, strange to say, within a cable's
length of the spot where the John Curry was lost. I also met the captain of the Menado in
Singapore, and he acknowledged that my version of his loss was correct, as he could not
account for it in any other way. Some time afterwards, strange to relate, one of H.M.
ships, the Andromeda, came to grief in the same locality. In passing up and down the
straits some time before, I noticed this set of the tide, or perhaps rather an under current,
and always kept correct bearings of the Parcelar, and on a dirty night or when dark, was
invariably able to pick out an anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms ; but these observations are
nearly useless now, for there is a light on the One-Fathom Bank (North Sands), and if the
Government place a second light on the South Sand Head, the principal dangers can be
easily avoided. There are nights, however, when all these advantages will be found use-
less — at short intervals during the north-westers and Sumatras."

128 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

The Malay Coast about Parcelar Hill forms a slight bay, instead of a con-
vexity, as was shown on the old charts, an error which led to some disaster.
This bay, at the head of which the southern mouth of the Langat Eiver is
situated, is filled with a shallow bank, and at about 9 miles southward from
the hill is a slight projection named Parcelar Point, not easily distinguished
on the low land of Parcelar of the old charts. It continues low and woody
to the E.S.E. for 15 miles, to the N.W. limit of a bight, of which Tanjong
Kamuning, 7 miles farther on, is the S.E. point. Above the head of this
bay is the South Hummock, 973 ft. in height, and further inland are seen
some other high lands towering above the trees on the coast. This bay is
filled with shoals, and a line of detached shoals lies off its mouth. These
shoals are formed by the debris brought down by the Eiver Lukut, which
enters the head of the bay in lat. o° 35' N. A few miles up the river, on its
left bank, is the town of Lukut.

The Bambek Shoal lies midway between Parcelar Point and Cape Ea-
chada, on the line joining their extremities, and 3 miles off the N.W. point
of the bay just mentioned. This shoal was much dreaded by the early navi-
gators, and several ships were lost on it. It is rocky, and nearly awash in
the centre, and has several heads of 2^ to 3 fathoms over a space of 2^ miles
E.S.E. and W.N. W., dropping to 7 and 8 fathoms at each end, and having
10, 12, and 15 fathoms close outside it, so that the lead by night does not
afford a very safe guide on approaching it. The dangerous Pyramid Shoal,
the south-easternmost of the South Sands, is also difficult to avoid by the
lead, as the soundings are deep close up to it, the depth of the strait being
very irregular throughout its breadth. This danger is not lessened by the
streno-th and irregularity of the tides, which set in various directions among
the channels between the South Sands. The ground is all oaze, except about
the middle of the channel.

The shoal which runs north-westward from Tanjong Kamuning is 2° 32' N.
above mentioned, has an opening through it abreast of that cape, upwards
of a mile and a half in width, and the shoal continues in a direction parallel
with the coast as far as Cape Eachada, 8 miles to the south-eastward, and at
from a mile to H ^i^^ from it, leaving a channel inside it, having a depth
of from 6 to 12 fathoms. A small island, Arrang-Arrang, lies to the S.E. of
Tanjong Kamuning.

CAPE RACHADA, or Tanjong Tuan, derived its Portuguese name from
its ruo'ged, cleft character. It is 28 miles S.E. by E. from the point abreast
the Parcelar Hill, and comes in sight just after passing that point. It is
perpendicular toward the sea, and is something like Mount Dilly on the
Malabar coast, but not so lofty.

It projects to seaward in a long narrow point of land, which forms a deep
bay on each side of it, with a small rock or islet near its extremity. When
first seen coming from the northward it makes like an island, for the neck

CAPE EACHADA. 129

of land which joins it to the main is much lower than the cape itself. There
are two wells of fresh water under the cape.

The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Eachada, completed in 1863, is a circular
white stone tower, 78 ft. in height to the top of the lantern, in lat. 2° 24' 30" N.,
lon^. 101° 51' 10" E. It shows a brilliant fixed light over half the horizon,
or when bearing from S.E. by E. round eastward and northward to N."W. by W.
The light is elevated 446 ft., and may be seen 25 miles off.

The tides are very strong off Cape Eachada, and pass it in noisy ripplings,
especially at springs, the flood to southward, and ebb to northward. This
is the narrowest part of the Malacca Strait, the opposite puint of Sumatra,
Ujong Bantam being only 21 miles from it.

In sailing down this portion of the strait, do not pass within a line joining
Parcelar Point and Cape Eachada, nor bring Parcelar Point, the South ex-
treme of the land to northward, to the southward of S. 60° E. to keep clear
of the shore bank, giving Parcelar Point a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing
it. When Cape Eachada or the bight is seen, keep to the eastward of
S.E. by E. I E. to keep clear of the Bambek Shoal. Cape Eachada brought
to bear E.S.E. is a fair mid-channel bearing throughout, standing off to the
southward to E. by S. ^ S. It would be dangerous to exceed these bear-
ings when the cape appears as an island. When approached within 10 or 12
miles the low neck comes in view, and the channel then becomes wider, and
the boards may be continued further to the southward. Cape Eachada light
kept in sight clears Bambek Shoal in the night time.

Lingey Eiver. — The coast continues somewhat to the North of East from
Cape Eachada for 5 miles, and then turns to E.S.E. for 3 miles more to the
mouth of the Lingin or Lingey River, a large stream visited for tin, and tute-
nague, the white metal alloy used by the Chinese to imitate silver. This
river is the boundary between the native state Sunghy Ujong and the British
state of Malacca. Off the point to the South of this river are some small
detached rocks, and the whole of the coast to the N. W. is skirted by a shoal
bank and straggling rocks. A buoy marks the eastern side of the Battoo
Uandi, a small shoal, which lies IJ mile S.W. by S. from the southern en-
trance point of the river. E.S.E. of the buoy lies the Batto Tinga Eocks, at
half a mile from the shore. At 10 miles from the mouth of the Lingin is the
Diana Hock, a large rock always above water, and H mile from the shore,
with 15 to 19 fathoms irregular bottom close outside it.

Tangong Kling is 22 miles S.E. by E. from Cape Eachada, and may be
known by two or three trees on its extremity, more elevated than the others
near the sea. The shore hereabout should not be made too free with in
the night, as the soundings are deep and irregular, affording but little
guide.

On the opposite side of the strait is the Quin Shoal, discovered by Admiral

130 THE 8TEAIT OF MALACCA.

Quin, in H.M.S. Raleigh. It has 3^ to 4 fathoms on it, and is about 1| mile
long from N.N.W. to S.S.E. It bears from Cape Eachada S. | E. 17J miles.
Mount Ophir peak bore from it E.N.E., the North end of Pulo Eoupat,
TJjong Bantam, on the Sumatra side, West, and the South end of Pulo Eoupat
S.S.W. f W.

MALACCA (or Malaka), the capital of the British Province to which it
gives its name, stands on both sides of a small stream, at 27 miles from Cape
Eachada, and 5 miles from Tanjong Kling.

Malacca was occupied by the Portuguese in 1511, and in 1641 was taken
from them by the Dutch, who surrendered it to the British in 1795. It was
occupied by us till 1818, when it was restored to the Netherlands Govern-
ment, by whom it was again surrendered to us in exchange for Bencoolen in
1825. In 1826 it was incorporated with Singapore,

The State of Malacca extends from the Eiver Lingey, on the N.W., to
theCassang, on the S.E., having a coast line of about 40 miles in length,
with a mean breadth of 25 miles, which includes the interior territory of
Nanning or Naning, so that it has an area of about 1,000 square miles. In
1865 the state had a total population of 71,600, chiefly Malays. At the
census in 1871 the Malays numbered 57,474, the Chinese 30,456. The trade
has been considerably reduced since Singapore has risen into pre-eminence,
but tin and gold are still sent to that emporium in large quantities. In 1871,
imports were valued at £503,326, and exports at £526,428. It has no direct
trade with the United Kingdom. In 1875, 651 vessels, of 101,476 tons, en-
tered the port.

Malacca derives its name, according to Malay history, from the Malacca
tree {Phyllanthus Emhlica), and was founded in the thirteenth century.

The town of Malacca is divided by a small river into two parts, connected
by bridges, one of which was given by a munificent native merchant. On
the left or southern bank rises the verdant hill of St. Paul, surrounded by
vestiges of the ancient Portuguese fort. Around its base lie the barracks,
lines, and most of the houses of the military ; the stadthouse, courthouse,
gaol, church, civil and military hospitals, the site of the old inquisition, con-
vent, the police-office, school, post-ofiice, and the master-attendant's office.
On its summit stand the ruins of the ancient church of Our Lady del Monte,
erected by Albuquerque, the Portuguese conqueror of Malacca, and the scene
of the labours and supposed miracles of that apostle of the East, St. Francis
Xavier ; also the lighthouse and flagstafi". A little to the South rises the hill
of St. John's, and in the rear that of St. Francis. On these eminences are
still the remains of batteries erected by the Portuguese and Dutch, command-
ing the eastern and southern entrances to the town. Smaller knolls inter-
vene, covered with the extensive cemeteries of the Chinese.

The view of Malacca from the roads is extremely picturesque. It has the
appearance of being situated in the bend of a crescent or bay ; the southern

MALACCA. irU

horn of which is foraied by a chain of beautiful islets, called by the Portu-
guese the Aguadas, or Water Isles, stretching out seawards from the coast.
On the South side, the shore trends to the West, terminating in an elevated
and well wooded point called Tanjong Kling. A few other islets stud the
shore. The first objects that strike the eye are a cluster of trees crowning
the summit of St. Francis, the Star fort on St. John's to the South, the
lighthouse and ruinous church on St. Paul's, and the white edifices that
skirt its base, stretching along the sea shore, and gradually lost in the thick
groves of cocoa-nut trees that cover the dwellings of the Portuguese, Chinese,
and Malays, in the suburbs of Bander Ilir, and Ujong Passir. In the back
ground of this pleasing view rise the hills of Bukit Bertam, Bruang, Pan-
chur, &c. To the ISlorth, in the distance frown the mountains of Rumbawe
and Srimenanti, and far away to the East, the triple peak of Ophir, cele-
brated for its gold, shoots into the sky with softened outline. — {Lieut. T. J.
Newhold, vol. i., pp. 109—111.)

The Lighthouse is a turret on St. Paul's Hill, as above stated, and is in
lat. 2° ir 15" N., long, 102° 15' 30" E. It shows a bright fixed light, ele-
vated 146 ft., seen 1 2 miles off. When seen to the northward of N. by W. f W.
it will lead clear of the Water Islands.

A red light is also shown on the pier-head at Malacca, visible 6 miles off in
clear weather.

The roadstead of Malacca is perfectly safe. It is neither visited by the
hurricanes of higher latitudes, nor within the influence of the monsoons ; as
was said in the sixteenth c6ntury, " it is the beginning of one monsoon and
the end of another.

The Road is limited to the North by Fisher Island, a small islet known
formerly as Pea or Woody Island, surrounded by a shoal and foul ground,
which joins with the shore. This is nearly 3 miles westward from the
entrance of the river. It ought not to be approached within 9 or 10 fathoms,
which is near to the edge of the shoal. With the extremes of the island
bearing from N. by W. to N.N.W. and the body of it N. by W. ^ W. half
a mile distant, there is a small circular shoal, having only 18 ft. on it at
low water. Near to the city is Pulo Java, or Eed Island, on the edge of the
shoal water. To the S.E. of this is Pulo Panjang, a rocky reef or flat, pro-
jecting 1^ mile from the shore, and extending along it to Pulo Java. The
church and flagstatf on the hill bear N. ^ E. from the West end of Panjang
Eeef U mile distant, and from its East end N.N.W. i W. 3^ miles distant.
There is a depth of 18 or 19 fathoms within 2 cables' lengths of its southern
edge, similar to that in the ofiing, therefore the lead is no guide to clear it.
From 20 fathoms in the offing the depths decrease regularly over a bottom of
soft mud towards the road, where the best anchorage is under 10 fathoms,
with the church on the hill N.E. by E., Fisher Island N.W. ^ W., and the
tuft of trees East, the town I5 or 2 miles distant. When the depth exceeds

132 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

10 fathoms, the bottom is generally a stiff tenaceous clay, which holds the
anchors very firmly ; under that depth it is generally of soft mud.

There is no danger going into Malacca Road ; if you are in the offing, in
20 or 23 fathoms, you shoal en your water gradually to 7 fathoms, as you
ran in for the road. A large ship should not go into less than 7^ fathoms ;
for it shoalens suddenly from 7 to 5 and 4 fathoms. And they should be
still more careful not to go too far to the southward, or to the S.E. part of
the bay, for there the ground is foul and rocky, and shoalens suddenly from
8 to 3 fathoms. Off Fisher's Island there is no danger; and it is found that
a ship, upon occasion, might go within half a mile of it, in 16 fathoms water,
or have 10 fathoms within a quarter of a mile, and 20 fathoms within 1 mile
of it. You may anchor in Malacca Road from 13 to 7^ fathoms, oazy ground,
Malacca church on the N.W. part of Mount Moar, E. 27° 30' N. ; the S.W.
part of Fisher's Island "W. 36° 15' N. ; and the outermost of the Four
Brothers, or Water Islands, E. 50° 20' S. ; distance from Malacca 1^ mile.
The flagstaff bearing N.E. or N.E. by E. ; Fisher's Island N.W. by W. ;
and the outermost Water Island S.E. J S. ; you have 8 fathoms. The flag-
staff N.E. i N., and Fisher's Island N.W. by W., you are iu 10 fathoms.
The flagstaff N.E., and Fisher's Island N.N.W. ^ W., you have 14 fathoms,
all good anchoring ground.

Ships should not anchor on the East side of the road, near Red Island, for
the bottom is foul and rocky, the depth suddenly decreasing from 8 to 3 fa-
thoms, on the North end of Panjang Reef.

During the period of the S.W. monsoon, sudden hard squalls frequently
blow into the road from the Sumatra side in the night, accompanied with
much thunder, lightning, and rain. It is high water full and change at 7^
hours ; springs rise 11 ft., neaps 8J ft. The rate is about 2 knots. The ebb
and flood tides continue to run for 2 hours after high and low water by the
shore, and boats cannot enter the river after half ebb. The proceed into the
river soon after quarter flood, steering for the church on the hill, keeping it
rather on the starboard bow ; and when the bar is approached, the channel
may be discovered by the stakes in the entrance.

Malacca stands on low ground, but within, the country rises into undulat-
ing hills, moderately elevated, among which is that called Bukit Barotig, 4
miles inland, in a N.E. direction.

Mount Ophir, or Gunong Ledang, may be better distinguished than the rest,
as it is much higher, 3,840 ft., and lies 24 miles to E.N.E.

The WATER ISLANDS, or Four Brothers, are a cluster of four smaU
islands and one larger, lying 6 miles south-eastward from Malacca. The
outer ones are small round islands covered with trees, and the innermost,
Pulo Bessar, has excellent fresh water on its eastern side, and thus gives its
name to the group. This can be procured at all times, but near low water,
when the shore reefs are dry.

THE WATEE ISLANDS. 133

The outermost island, Pulo Undan, is IJ mile South of the next, Pulo
Nanka, and this half a mile South of the third, which has a channel above a
mile wide between it and Pulo Bessar, but nearly in mid-channel there is a
sunken rock. This channel may be used by ships if pressed, by carefully
avoiding this rock. This may be passed in 10 to 12 fathoms water, by
keeping close to the middle Brother, or to the South end of Bessar, for the
rock is nearly a mile from the S.E. end of the latter, and one-third of a mile
from the middle Brother. Coming from the eastward, keep the South end
of Bessar N.W. until the southernmost Brother is shut in with the two
others.

The Rob Roy Bank, so named from a ship which grounded on it during
the survey, a very dangerous 6-feet shoal, 3J miles in extent, lies on the
Sumatran side of the channel, opposite the "Water Islands and Malacca,
from which it is distant 20 miles in a S.W. direction. It is therefore much
best to keep in with the Malay shore hereabout, and not to stand off more
than 10 or 12 miles, guarding against the uncertain set of the tides. The
depth rather increases towards the Eob Eoy Shoal, which is steep on its
northern face.

The coast south-eastward from the Water Islands is low and clean, covered
with trees, and intersected by several rivers, the most noticeable of which is
the Sung-ei Mnar, or Kassang, 20 miles from Malacca. It is the S.E. bound-
ary of the state. Bahit Moar, or Mora, an isolated hill covered with trees,
lies 9 miles to the S.E. of the river, and is just visible from Malacca Eoad.
The coast, which slightly recedes, is skirted by an extensive shoal, and there-
fore must be avoided. Tmyong Tor, a low level point, is about E.S.E. 33
miles from Malacca, and here the shore bank appears to be much narrower,
a moderate depth being found close to the point, ;vhile the edge of the bank
N.W. and S.E. of it trends in a straight direction, the land recedes into
slender bays on each side.

Mount Formosa, or Gunong Batu Pahat, is more distinguishable than
Mount Moar. It is the highest summit, 1,480 ft., of a long ridge of undu-
lating hills near the shore, which are seen to extend inland to the N.E. Its
S.W. slope forms a bluff point, Tanjong Segmting, on the western side of
which is the entrance of the Sung-hei Batu Pahat, or Formosa River. A small
island, Pulo Sheilo, lies off the pitch of the cape.

The strait opposite this part becomes more embarrassed with shoals, long
narrow spits trending in a N.W. and S.E. direction, some of which are 30
or 40 miles long within the 10-fathoms line. On the Malay side of th&
strait the more dangerous are not more than 4 or 5 miles off shore, but on
the Sumatran side they reach to 18 and 25 miles off. The Hannah or Formosa
Shoal is the most formidable on the northern side. It lies off the foot of
Mount Formosa, extending thence 7 or 8 miles, and having only 12 ft.
water on its shoalest spots. Its S.E. end is 2^ miles from the point of Mount

134 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

Formosa, and its N.W. end is 5 miles from the adjacent shore. There is a
channel between the shoal and the shore, but there are some dangerous spots
of 18 ft. in it, one of which is about 2 miles due West of Pulo Sheilo, the
islet off the Mount Formosa Cape.

The main channel of the strait abreast of the Hannah Shoal is about 10
miles in width ; beyond that distance there are the dangerous patches of the
S.W. banks, which have nevertheless deep water channels between the spits.
The southern edge of the Hannah Bank and the northern face of the Suma-
tran Banks are steep-to, but if the lead is very carefully and briskly used, it
will indicate their proximity. A long and narrow bank runs along this
fairway channel with depths varying from 5 to 12 fathoms, having depths of
from 15 to 25 fathoms on either side. All over the eastern and middle parts
of it you have soft clay with 8 to 12 fathoms; towards the East end it be-
comes harder and shoals to 5 and 7 fathoms. This bank was formerly known
as the Fisang or Fair Channel Bank.

The coast south-eastward of Mount Formosa, for an extent of 40 miles, is
low and wooded, with nothing remarkable except a small mound near the
sea, Batu Balu, about 15 miles from Formosa. It is all fronted by mud banks
from 2^ to 6 miles in breadth, the edges of which are very steep. This fea-
ture is also found in all other banks of this part of the strait, caused probably
by the strong currents, and is on that account a dangerous feature in its
navigation. It is especially so near Pulo Pisang.

In sailing down the fairway channel from abreast of Mount Formosa at 7
miles distance to Pulo Pisang, the direct course should be S.E. by E. ; the
distance is between 9 and 10 leagues. Having doubled Formosa Bank,
when the mount bears N E. between 3 and 4 leagues, you will raise this
island bearing E.S.E. | S., or S.E. by E., you will then have soundings from
20 to 22 or 23 fathoms, oazy ground. In turning to windward on this course,
the Pisang Bank is of the greatest service both for anchoring on during the
ebb, and for the purpose of keeping on, either in the night or day, during
the squalls, which are generally accompanied with rain ; tor by steering
along its verge, on either side, you may run the whole length of the bank
without fear or danger, and upon deepening oflP the end of it may steer for
mid-channel, between the Carimons and Pulo Cocob. By keeping in 11 or
12 fathoms on either edge, if you deepen your water, you know which side
to steer towards ; whereas, by running along the top of the bank, if you
deepen, it is uncertain on which side.

PULO PISANG or Pesang is a tolerably large and woody island, 200 ft.
hifh, and a mile in diameter, which lies at 2 leagues distance from the main,
and there is a channel between it and the main, in which there are not less
than 4 fathoms water ; on the West side of it lie three small islands, the
largest of which sometimes affords good water, and boats may land there
commodiously at high water, in a bay on the N.W. part; this island may be

PULO PISANG. 135

seen in clear -vreather 9 or 1 leagues off ; then it makes in three small hum-
mocks, like boats turned bottom upward.

The Lighthouse constructing (1877) on Pulo Pisang is to show a light,
visible between S.E. by E. ^ E. through South and West to N.W. i N.

It is high water at full and change at Pulo Pisang at 9 o'clock. The flood
tide generally sets fairly through the channel from the Water Island to the
Carimons at the head of the strait, and the ebb also, in the contrary direc-
tion ; the rate about 2 miles at spring tides.

Pulo Pisang bears S.E. by E. 65 miles from the Water Islands, and when
abreast of the outer island from 1 to 4 miles off, a S.E. by S. course will
carry you about the same distance outside the Formosa Bank, if not drifted
out of it by the tide.

When Mount Formosa is brought to bear about N.E., keep within 3 or at
most 4 leagues of the Malay coast, to keep well clear of the middle bank on
the Sumatra side, so as not to get to the southward of its N.W. end.

If the weather is clear, and Pulo Pisang be discerned, keep it between
E. by S. J S. and S.E. by E. ^ E., until Mount Formosa is brought to bear
North or N. by W. in working between the North side of the Middle Bank
and the Malay coast. In passing the Formosa Bank in the night, if it is found
that the ship has got too far to the southward so as to be southward of
the Middle Bank keep along the southern side, or you may work against a
contrary wind, in the channel between this and the next bank to the south-
ward, the breadth of this channel being about 2J miles, with 16 to 19 fa-
thoms water. But it should be remembered that these long narrow banks,
as they get nearer to the Sumatra side, have less water on them, and there-
fore the most prudent course would be to cross the Middle Bank by some of
the numerous channels between its shoaler parts, rather than risk being
drifted to the southward into less water. This may be done when Pulo
Pisang is brought to bear about N.E. by E., when a depth of 5^ to 7 fathoms
will be found on the ridge. Pulo Pisang may be brought to bear S.E. by E.
■when standing towards the edge of the bank which skirts the coast be-
tween it and Mount Formosa, excepting at about 5 miles to N.W. of that
island, where it forms an elbow, and should not be approached too closely.
When Mount Formosa is brought to bear N. by W., Pisang may occasionally
be brought to bear E. ^ S. or East in standing towards the Middle Bank.
The channel is about 10 miles broad ; during the night stand into 10 fathoms
on the shore bank, and off to 18 or 20 fathoms. By day, when abreast of
Mount Formosa, and Pulo Pisang is visible, bearing E.S.E. or S.E. by E. f E ,
steer for it ; either of these bearings will carry you in mid-channel. When
near to the island, its western side and the two islets may be approached
within half a mile, as they are bold close-to, with 13 to 15 fathoms within a
cable's length of them. In standing off shore about 10 miles from the
island you will be close to, or upon, the S.E. part of the middle bank, where

136 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

there will be 4.^- to 6i fathoms. In working past Pulo Pisang, tack about IJ
or 2 miles from it in 14 to 17 fathoms, and do not stand off from it more than
3 leagues.

Pulo Cocob (or Cocops) is 12 miles S.E. from Pisang Peak. It is a long
flat island close to the Malay coast, between which and the shore is a narrow
boat channel. It is covered with trees, those at the N.W. end being man-
grove bushes, and more like grass ; and at the S.E. end they are tall, upright
grown trees, like those on the adjoining coast. The island is 2 miles in length.
At low water it is surrounded by a dry sand-bank, which extends off the
N.W. extreme \h mile. Vessels may approach it within three-quarters of
a mile.

Tanjong Bolus, or Burn, or Peie, the southern extremity of the Malay
Peninsula, may also be taken as the western limit of the Strait of Singapore.
It is in lat. T 17' 15" N., long. 103° 27' 20" E., and is a low point of land,
covered with tall trees, bearing from the South point of Pulo Cocob E.S.E.
5i miles. At low water it is fronted by a dry sand-bank, and shoal water
extends 1 mile from the point, which is very steep. Vessels, therefore, should
be careful not to approach too close.

The CARIMON ISLANDS form the southern side of the strait opposite
Tanjong Bolus, and consist of a cluster of one large and several smaller
islands and rocks.

Little Carimon extends furthest to the North. It is a high island, 2^
miles in length N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 1 mile broad. It rises in two peaks,
which are ill defined and difficult to distinguish, covered with thick wood.
The North end bears from Tanjong Bolus S.W. ^ W. 9 miles, the breadth
of the strait, which is free from dangers (except the flat off Tanjong Bolus,
before mentioned). The N.E. side of the Little Carimon having deep water
close-to.

The Brothers are two small rocky islets 2| miles to the N.W. of the Little
Carimon. They have deep water close to them ; but at 400 yards to the
W.N.W. of the eastern islet there is a danqerous rock, just awash at low water.
South by East of the East Brother, and West of the North point of the Little
Carimon, is another islet of singular appearance, called the South Brother ;
and S.W. I S. of this is a rock above water, named the White Rock.

Great Carimon is a high island, separated from the Little Carimon by a
narrow strait, and lying to the S.W. of it near its North end ; it rises to two
high peaks, 1,376 and 1,474 ft. high respectively, which are well defined and
conspicuous objects, and may be seen 36 miles off. The lowest, or North
peak, bearing S.E., clears the danger on the Long Middle Bank, before
mentioned. To the westward of the island are several islets and rocks,
both above and below the water, but which are entirely out of the track of
ships.

The description of the Strait of Singapore will be given in a future section.

THE COAST OF SUMATRA. 137

We now return to the northern entrance describing the Sumatran coast of the
strait.

The COAST of SUMATRA, between Achin Head and Diamond Point,
was surveyed by order of the East ludia Company, by Commander Fell, I.N.,
in 1x51-8, and later by the Netherlands Government in the years 1872-4,
and the N.E. coast of the island thence southward by Lieut. Jackson, I.N.,
in 1860. These excellent surveys, combined with the previous observations
of Captains Moresby, Rose, and Ward, have given us a very perfect repre-
sentation of the shores of this otherwise little known island.

This side of Sumatra may be described, generally, as a vast alluvial plain,
but very little above the sea level, unbroken by any great bays or inlets ; but
formed at the narrowest part of the strait, of low islands. This great level
expanse is 600 miles in length, and from 60 to 120 miles in breadth; an area
more than half of the extent of Great Britain. It is intersected by numerous
rivers, some of considerable magnitude, which, rising in the great mountain
chain, lyin^ nearer to its S.W. side, or the few lakes at their base, afford
almost the only clear spaie for cultivation and the habitations of the people,
which are all derived from one stock — the Malayan, but divided into several
families or nations, some of which have made considerable progress in civili-
zation, in the arts and agriculture, as well as writing, &c ; others are of a
very rude and wild class, those living in the mountainous portion of this vast
island. Altogether they are estimated by Mr. Logan, the best writer on the
subject, to amount to 898,650 souls.

The whole island, except the kingdom of Achin, is nominally under the
Dutch Government ; but very little power is, or can, be exercised by the few
European or native representatives of that nation. The Sumatra shores of
the Strait of Malacca belong to the kingdom of Achin, or Acheen, at the
JSorth end ; the Batak nation, next to the south-eastward; then the Siak
State, traversed by the finest river of Sumatra, bordering the narrowest and
upper part of the strait.

Achin, or Acheen, ths northernmost state, is of some interest, as the spot
which the earliest English navigators visited in 1602. Its chief feature is
the Golden Mount, or Ya Muria, rising 7,546 ft. in height to the S.E. of the
capital town, and to be seen 92 miles off. The town in early times rose ra-
pidly to eminence and great commerce ; and when Dampier came here in
1688, it had 45,000 or 50,000 inhabitants, a number equal to the whole
present population of the state. Its full, subsequent to this, was equally
rapid, and the sovereignty is now pa>.^iiig from the native rulers to the
Dutch Government, who commenced the war on Achin in 1871. Previous
to this, all the island, except Achin, was under Dutch. Government, this

I. A. t

138 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

state being protected by the treaty of 1824 between England and Holland, by
which treaty English rights in Sumatra were exchanged for Dutch possessions,
in Malacca and in the Peninsula of India, with the proviso that Achin should
remain unmolested. In 1871, however, when the Dutch G-overnment gave
up to us their possessions on the Gruinea Coast of Airica, this part of the
treaty was cancelled, and the Achin war began ; the pretext fur the war
being the many acts of piracy committed by the Atchinese. Up to October,
1875, the Dutch had lost 5,144 men in this war. Achin is now very un-
important, and rice is one of its chief products. A portion of it is known as
the Coast of Pedir, tbe produce of which is the areca nut and a little pepper.

Bafali, the next nation to the S.E., the country of the Bataks or Battas,
has been partially conquered and explored by the Dutch. It is singularly
unlike most other parts of the Malayan Archipelago. A considerable por-
tion of it consists of a dreary, treeless, and sterile plain. The people are
more strange than their country. They have a knowledge of letters, but
undoubtedly are cannibals. The Dutch authorities say that those under
their sway are readily dissuaded from this dreadful crime. There is very
little commerce.

Siah, the third division, is but little known. Its great river has been
ascended for a considerable distance, and is navigable for vessels of consider-
able burden for 90 miles to the town of Siak, and for those of 200 tons for
100 miles, but it is almost closed by a sand bank.

The portions of these states unoccupied by man, or lying on the borders of
the rivers, is one vast primeval forest, to clear and cultivate which is far
beyond the powers or wants of its small and puny population. Its cultivated
portion is the chief source of the sago of commerce ; camphor and benzoin
are also produced. CoflFee cultivation has largely extended ; besides these,
there are other and minor objects of trade.

ACHIN HEAD, the N.W. point of Sumatra, and the islands and pas-
sages lying off it, have been described in our Indian Ocean Directory.

Pulo Brasse Lighthouse, 120 ft. high, on the N.W. point of the island,
completed in 1875, is a white tower, with its upper part painted red. From
it is shown a revolving light, elevated 525 ft., and visible 32 miles off to the
northward and eastward between W. | S. and S.E. ^ E. An auxiliary red
light, to indicate the shoals which lie to the N.W. of the lighthouse, is shown
between N. by W. ^ W. and W. by S. ^ S. from the same tower, at an ele-
vation of 430 ft., visible 8 miles off.

Eastward 1^ mile from Palo Brasse lighthouse is a projecting point, which
shelters an anchorage in Lembalei Bay, to the southward of it. The best
anchorage is in about 9 fathoms off the village of Ujong Poneng, S. by W.
nearly half a mile from the extremity of the projecting point. There is also

THE COAST OF SUMATRA. 139

anchorage in Rots Bay, a small bay, about a mile wide on the eastern side of
Pulo Nancy. It has an islet, forming its South entrance point, in lat.
5° 38' 5" N., long. 95° 11' 25" E. At half a mile South of this islet is a
stream of fresh water.

Achin Head, the North part of which forms the eastern side of the Surat
Passage, is in lat. 5° 34' 10" N., long. 95° 15' E., is steep-to, and has a high
cliff land on its North side. At three-quarters of a mile E. by S. from the
eastern extreme of the head is Pulo Tuan, a small circular islet, surrounded
by dangerous rocks, which also lie between the islet and the head. A mile
E.S.E.-ward of Pulo Tuan, is a shallow inlet, which receives the waters of the
Maraha River. Achin or Atjeh River entrance, in 5° 35' 35" N., 95° 20' 45" E.,
bears from it E. by N. J N. 6 miles ; there is no flagstaff, or any conspicuous
object, to point out the entrancee of the river. The anchorage is in 9 or 10
fathoms, with the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bearing N. 20° E. ; Achin
Head, S. 69° W. ; the shore between Achin Head and River may be ap-
proached to 5 or 6 fathoms.

Pulo Btirroo, or 3Ialora, N. 36° E., 6f miles from the entrance of Achin
River, is a small rocky islet, with a tree on it. It is 2f miles off shore, with
soundings of 13, 9, and 12 fathoms between it and the mainland, from which
the eastern extreme of Pulo Way bears N. 5° AV., the bluff' entrance near
Point Pedro S. 41° E.

In working along this part of the coast, attention ought to be paid to the
tides, and be sure not to go out of soundings should the wind be light and un-
favourable, as the soundings extend but a short distance outside Pulo Burroo.
Three miles to the East of it there is no ground at 275 fathoms.

PULO WAY {i.e. Water Island), which forms the N. W. side of the Bengal
Passage, is steep-to on all sides ; the nearest part of it is distant from Pulo
Burroo 6^ miles. Off the South side there is a rock, situated a short distance
from, the shore, on which the sea breaks, and is dry at low water. On its
S.E. side there is a deep bay, with 70 fathoms water at its entrance, and 25
fathoms close to the sandy beach at the head of it.

Point Pedro, in lat. 5° 89' 10" N., long. 95° 27' E., bears E. 22° N. from
Achin Roads, distant nearly 9 miles ; it is low, with a few trees on it, and
may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms. It is 1^ miles to the E.N.E. of the
bluff formed by the high land, which terminates in a gentle slope. Off this
point the bottom is rocky, and the soundings do not extend more than \h or
2 miles from the shore. At a mile W.S.W. of it, and S.E. of Malora Island,
is a small river named the ^'«??Ai<^, andS.W. 3 miles Irom this is another
small stream entering the sea, and called on the charts Gigchen River.

Krang Ryah Bay, in which there is anchorage sheltered from E. and S.
winds, lies 6 miles S.E. from Pedro Point. On its eastern side a cliffy coast
commences, and off' its eastern entrance point is a small islet, Batu Kapal.
At 6 miles eastward of Batu Kapal is Tanjong Batu Putie, a cliffy point bear-

140 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

ing N. by W. from the western slope of the Golden Mountain, Thence the
coast takes a general E.S.E. direction to Pedir Point. There is, however, a
slij^ht bay between Tanjong Batu Putie and Tanjong Segie, 8i miles
E.S.E. -ward from it, on the shores of which are the few small Tillages,
Lanteba, Bihu, Powad, Lawang, and Kalore. There are no dangers marked
on the charts at more than half a mile off shore hereabout.

PEDIR POINT, or BaUi Pedir, is a table land of moderate elevation. Off
Pedir Point, with the exception of a few rocks close in, the shore is steep-to,
there being 112 fathoms water 1 mile distant from the shore. From this
point the coast is cliffy for Zh miles, and runs to the southward, thence it
takes a general S.E. by E. direction for 1 6 miles to Endjung Creeh, a few
miles up wLich is the village of Saivang. Six creeks, with sand banks off
their mouths, are found on the coast between Pedir Point and Endjung
Creek. Batu Creelc, the first, lies 4 miles southward of Pedir Point. Bun-
gala Creeh, a mile N.E. of which is anchorage in 9 fathoms, lies If mile
E.S.E. of Batu Creek. Pedir Creelc is 2^ mile E.S.E.-ward of Batu Creek.
The village is not visible from the anchorage, which is abreast this creek in
10 or 12 fathoms. Gichen Creeh is 2\ miles E.S.E. of Pedir Creek. Between
this and Burong Creeh, the distance is 1^ mile. Burong may be known by a flag-
staff in the centre of the village. The creek is very narrow, and the bar at
its entrance very shallow, and only passable at high water. The anchorage
is abreast of the village in 15 or 18 fathoms water. From Bui'ong Creek to
Ije Labu Creek, which enters the sea at a slight projection of the coast, the
distance is 3j miles. Endjung Creek is 3J miles beyond this. Sawang
entrance, before mentioned, may be known by a high grove of trees near to it.

At E. i S. 7| miles from the entrance of Sawang or Endjung Creek is
Merdu Point, low and sandy, with a few small round trees on it. Beradjang
Creeh lies 2 miles westward of the point, another creek enters the sea at the
point, and TJlim Creeh 2 miles south-eastward of it. Between Merdui Point
and Pajah, Point, lat. 5° 14' 30", long. 96° 28' 30", the distance is 131 miles,
and midway between Samalangan Creeh enters the sea. Pajah Point may be
known by a high grove of trees near its extreme. There is a depth of about
15 fathoms, at a mile off shore, between Merdui and Rajah Points. To the
eastward, Pedada Creek is in long. 96° 35' ; Bjimpa Creeh, 96° 39' 45" ; and
Passangan Creeh in 96° 48'.

Passangan Point is in lat. 5° 18' N., long. 96=51' E., and bears from
Oujong Rajah E. J N., distant 23 miles, between which the shore mav be
approached to 12 or 14 fathoms, excepting when near to Passangan Point,
which is steep-to, having 30 fathoms within half a mile from the beach.
Passangan Point is low and sandy, with a few cocoa-nut trees near to its ex-
treme, and is in one with Elephant Mountain, bearing S. 42° W.

East 4° South from Passangan Point, distant 9^ miles, is Agum-Agum, or
Gonia Goma Point, the coast between is slightly concave, and hallway between

THE COAST OF SUMATEA. 141

there is a high square grove of trees, near which the Elumpang Dua Creek
enters the sea. Ilaneh Creeh enters the sea a mile eastward of Passangan
Point. The shore vsx?^ be approached between these points to 8 or 10 fa-
thoms, but not when abreast of Agum-Agum, which is low, with a little
jungle on it, as two sunken rocks lies off this point, one a mile W.N.W. of
the point, and another, the Sumatra Rock, at a mile off shore and 2 miles
eastward of the point. Do not shoal the water under 25 fathoms when in
the neighbourhood of the Sumatra Eock, if you wish to pass outside of it.
From Goma Goma Point the coast takes a general E. by S. ^ S. direction for
12 miles to Telok Samoi, or Teles Amoi Point, S.S.W. from which is a t^ble
land of moderate elevation, with a few conspicuous trees on it. The point
may be rounded at any convenient distance, as there are soundino-s of 7 and
10 fathoms within 100 yards of the beach. Krang Guku Creek is 4^ miles
eastward of Goma Goma Point. At Telok Samoi Point the coast recedes
and forms a bay, open to the North and East, with a river flowing into its
S. W. corner ; and two villages on its shores, Telok Samoi on its western, and
Maraksa on its South side.

From Maraksa, just eastward of which a small creek enters the sea,
the coast runs in an E.N.E. direction to Diamond Point, and may be ap-
proached to 7 or 8 fathoms, except when approaching Diamond Point, there
is a shoal of hard slatey clay, with 2 fathoms on it ; it is not more than 20
yards in extent, with 7 and 8 fathoms close round it. From the shoal
Diamond Point Dears E. 1° N., distant 5 J miles ; a small gap in the juno-le
S. r E. ; and Curtoy Creek (which is situated 8J miles to the westward of
Diamond Point, at the AYest extreme of the belt of thick jungle), S. 22° W.

Fussier or Passey, now an unimportant place, about 25 miles south-westward
of Diamond Point, is frequently mentioned in old Malay annals as beino- a
place of some note, at one time rivalling Malacca. It attained its notoriety
as an entrepdt for trade carried on between the countries East and West
of it. Between Passey Creek and Legabatang Creek, 8J miles eastward of
it, are the Rertv or Kertoy, Tyankoy, and Pidada Creeks.

DIAMOND POINT, or Jambie Ayre, or Tanjong Goere, forms the eastern
extremity of the coast of Pedir, the trees on it being of unequal height, and
higher than those of the contiguous land, make the land appear like a low
sloping island, when viewed at a considerable distance, although the ground
is very little elevated above the sea at high water spring tides. A reef ex-
tends from the point about \h mile in a northei-ly direction, having 3 fathoms
sand on its outer edge, and shoaling gradually to the point. A ship should
come no nearer the latter than 2i miles, nor under 12 fathoms in passing it
and the shoal to the westward ; for the water shoals quickly under this depth
to the westward of the point. This place is frequented in the fair season by
fishermen from the coast of Pedir. Inland to the S.S.W. there is a high.
Table Mountain, visible from the offing in clear weather.

142 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

Tides. — Although the tides along the Pedir coast are weak, and only per-
ceptible near the shore, there being a current usually setting to the westward
in the offing during the S.W. monsoon, yet they begin to run strong at
Diamond Point. The flood here sets to the S.E., and the ebb to the N.W.,
about 2 miles per hour, with arise and fall of 9 or 10 ft. on the springs. At
the western part of the coast of Pedir, it is high water at about lOJ hours,
on full and change of the moon, and at 12 hours off Diamond Point. The
soundings are not very regular in the offing, the depths being from 20 to 35
or 40 fathoms, about 3 miles, to 45 and 60 fathoms at 5 or 6 leagues from
the point ; and soundings extend from hence across to Pulo Pera, and from
the latter to the Ladda Islands, and to Penang. A little outside of Pulo
Pera there are no soundings.

The coast to the south-eastward has been surveyed by Lieut. Jackson ;
but the directions of Commander Fell are adapted to this later chart.

Adie, 20 miles South of Diamond Point, claimed Dutch protection in 1874,
and a coal depot has been established here. Between Diamond Point and
Adie are several rivers and creeks. On the western side of Diamond Point
is DJambu Ayer Creek, and on its eastern side Mentui Creek. In lat. 5° 14' N.
is Bekas Creek. Pareh Busuk, in 5° 13' N., is an entrance between two islands.
Ringin Creek is in lat. 5° 11' 30" ; Betas Creek in 5° 11' ; Simpang Olim River,
in 5° 9' 30", has its entrance marked out by stakes on the sand banks ; the
town is about 6 miles from its mouth, and there are some pepper grounds on
its banks. Malikan River is in 5° 8' N. Arakun Dur River, in 5° 6' N., has
a town, Telok Sintang, 1^ mile from its entrance, and some pepper grounds
higher up. In lat. 5° 4' 35" is the mouth of the Djolokh River, a mile below
it the Buging River; a mile S.E. of Buging River is Bagan River, and in
lat. 5° 2' 45" the mouth of the Bagan Panas River.

Edie Besaar River has a fort and flagstaflP on the South side of its entrance,
in lat. 4" 58' 40" N., long. 97° 46' 35" E. Some stakes mark the entrance,
which lies between sand banks that extend off either point and form a chan-
nel, running N.W. and SE., and open to the northward.

Prauhilah Point, in lat. 4° 53' 15" N., long. 97° 53' 30" E., bearing from
Diamond Point S.E. J E. 11 leagues, has a reef projecting North and
N.N.W. from it about 4 miles, near which the soundings are very irregular,
although between it and Diamond Point they are regular at a short distance
from the shore. There are 4 J fathoms, mud, 2 J miles from Prauhilah Point.
On the North side of the point is the entrance into the river, which is almost
dry at low water ; but inside of it there are 2 fathoms for several miles up,
with a small fishing village at a considerable distance from the entrance.
Off this part it is high water, at full and change, at 1 2'\

Raija River, the North entrance point of which is in lat. 4° 44' 38' N.,
long. 97° 57' E., has an extensive sand bank lying off its entrance. Along
the South side of this sand bank the channel into the river carries a depth of

LANKSA BAY. 143

2f fathoms, but there is less water outside, as little as 4^ ft. being found at
1 J mile S.E. of the North point.

LANKSA BAY, 20 miles S.E. by S. from Prauhilah Point, formed by
Ujong Byan to the N.W., and Ujong Kwala Lanksa to the S.E., is about
4 miles wide, containing numerous shoals, with narrow channels leading
into the different rivers, which fall into this bay. Near Ujong Kwala
Lanksa lies Pido Laga Tojoo, a small island, about a mile in extent, having a
channel about 300 yards wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water between it and
Ujong Kwala Lanksa.

The entrance into Lanksa River bears from it about South, and there is a
safe but narrow channel on either side of the island ; the best channel, how-
ever, is from theN.E., between the island and Ujong Kwala Lanksa, having
2 J fathoms least water. In the entrance of the river there are two small
islands, and the town is said to be at a considerable distance inside, contain-
ing a number of inhabitants, who cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. There
are only 3 fathoms, mud, about 6 miles distant from the bottom of the bay,
and the reefs extend 3i or 4 miles from the nearest land. Five leagues S.E.
of Lanksa Bay is Vjo7ig Tannang, or Tamiang, with Ujong Roquit midway be-
tween them. The coast in this interval is safe to approach, having from 15
to 20 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, excepting at Pulo Roquit and at Ujong
Tamiang, where there are reefs of breakers, which project out a mile. It is
high water at full and change here at 12'' 30".

Lunkat River, or Kwala Bulon, in lat. 4° H' N., long. 98° 29^' E., lies at
the S.E. extremity of a deep bay, formed between it and Ujong Tamiang.
The bay is not easily perceived from the offing, as Pulo Tampelu and Pulo
Sampatuan, two large islands fronting the bay, appear, unless close in-shore,
as part of the mainland. Between these islands there is said to be a safe
channel for small vessels, that leads to Kaya-la-pun River.

From the mouth of the Lankat a bank extends about 6 miles to the north-
ward and N.E., having dry patches on it, with breakers in some places.
About 5 miles off the entrance of the river the depth is 3 fathoms, mud, and
the tide rises and falls about 2 ft. on the springs ; high water at 3i hours,
on full and change. About 4 leagues S.E. of Lankat River there is Lankat-
tuah Island, close to Ujong Lankat-tuah, which is safe to approach, and which
forms the northern extremity of the concavity of the land, where Dehli River
is situated.

Balawan and Dehli Rivers are separated at their entrances by a low
island, covered with jungle, 2| miles long from East to West, and If mile
wide, the eastern extreme of which is in lat. 3^ 47' N., long. 98° 48' E. The
importance of these rivers arises from the fact that the Dutch Government
have recently established a coaling station on the shore which faces the western
end of the island before mentioned. Up to the coal sheds the least depth
(8 feet at low water) is found between the outer dark wooden cross and outer

144 THE STEAIT OF MALACCA.

\^'hite beacon. The entrance to Balawan River is about 300 yards wide, and
much deeper than Dehli River. At 3 miles to the northward of the East
extreme of the island which separates Balawan from Dehli River are the
outermost of some fishing stakes, whic-h lie 2 miles off the low wooded shore
to the westward, and mark the western side of the entrance to the channel,
which thence extends to the S.S.W., and is marked on its western side by
white basket-topped beacons, and on its eastern side by crosses of dark wood.
About 3] miles up the channel branches off to the westward, between the
island and the main, half a mile beyond a beacon marking a projecting shoal
on the port hand it turns to the southward, a mile up which reach there is
anchorage off the coal sheds. Dehli Town is reached by a channel to the
S.E., in which there are 1^ and 2 fathoms water. Here the rise and fall of
the tide is from 8 to 9 ft., high water at 3 hours on full and change of the
moon.

South of the entrance to the Balawan River a depth of 3 fathoms is fmnd
«,t 4 miles off shore, and for 3 miles eastward of the East point of the island
the sand nearly dries. The mouth of the Dehli River is about a quarter of a
mile wide, having 4 ft. at high water on some parts, but inside it deepens to
2 fathoms ; about 3 miles from the entrance is the town of Dehli or Labuan.
A mile up from the entrance the channel separates into two branches, one
leading N.W. towards the coal sheds, and the other leading S.W. towards
the town. There is only 3 or 4 ft. water in some parts of the channel, and
abreast the town the river is only 40 yards wide, with a fresh stream always
descending.

From Dehli to Tanjong Mattie, which forms the northern part of Batu
Barra Bay, the coast extends about S.E. by E., 55 miles, having regular
soundings to 4|- fathoms, within 2 miles of the low sandy beach that lines
this part o^ the coast.

There are some dangerous shoals off this part of the coast, as shown by
the survey of Lieut. Jackson.

The Dehli Shoal is the first of these, and lies 1 7 miles East by North from
the mouth of the Dehli River, and nearly 12 miles from the nearest shore.
Its least water is 27 ft., and it is surrounded by depths of 6 and 7 fathoms;
just outside it there are 10 and 13 fathoms. No marks are given to
avoid it.

The Bungan Banks, or Varela Reef, are still more dangerous. They lie
from 6 to 9 miles from the nearest land. Point Bungan Bungan, 25 miles
W. by S. from Pulo Yarela, and are two in nurr.l -^r. The outer one is a
narrow spit, extending 3^ miles N.W. and S.E., with only 9 fi. least water
on some parts. A channel, with 7 to 9 fathoms, nearly 2 miles in width,
separates it from the inner bank, which is also narrow, and extends in the
same direction for 4 miles. Between it and the coast, the channel, 4 miles
wide, has a depth of from 7 to 11 fathoms. The Peak of Pulo Varela,

PULO VAEELA— BATU BAREA RIVER. 145

bearing E J S., just clears theirnorthern edge ; the same peat, E. by N. ^ N.,
clears their southern part ; and a high tree on the main land, bearino-
S. by E. f E., will lead clear of their eastern face.

PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 46' 20' N., long. 99° 29' 15" E., and 22 1 miles
off the Sumatran coast, is very high, and may be seen 8 leagues off, although
it is not more that a mile in circumference. It is wooded, and clear all
round, with very deep water, 24 and 25 fathoms, close-to. A small rock or
islet off its N.W. point, and another off the South end. There are some
small sandy bays, the largest of which is to the S.E. On the South side ia
a small cove, in which at some seasons water may be procured. It runs
down the hill slowly into a small well. The island is visited by the Sumatran
people for the purpose of catching turtle and preserving their eggs, fish-roes,
&c. As these people are sometimes treacherous, boat parties landing for
fire-wood, fishing, cr water, should be on their guard.

A bank of 6 to 9 fathoms water lies to N.N.W. of Pulo Vai-ela. It is 7
miles in length, its S.E. end being 7 miles from Pulo Yarela. Although the
above depths were only found on the survey, it is reported that there are only
2 fathoms over some parts. There is another bank with 8 and 9 fathoms at
4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Yarela.

Point Mattie is 25 miles due South from Pulo Varela ; off it is the Mattie
Shoal, nearly awash in parts, and 9 miles in extent, parallel with the coast,
between which is a channel of from 15 to 5 fathoms water, from Ij to 2^
miles wide. It is high water here, at full and change, at 3 hours, rise from
7 to 10 ft.

Off Tanjong Mattie, to the northward, tbe depth increases to 12 and 14
fathoms, and shoals suddenly to 5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit which
projects about IJ mile from that point, and 6^ miles to the eastward of it,
and the same distance to the northward of Batu Barra there is an extensive
and dangerous sand-bank, having only IJ fathom, with a safe channel be-
tween it and the mainland, 3 miles wide.

BATU BARRA RIVER, in lat. 3° 14' N., long. 99° 35' 30" E., and the
coast for some miles eastward, is fronted by an extensive mud flat, from 2^to
4 miles oft' shore, having regular soundings, and projecting out to within 5
miles of the South Brother. The river is about 300 yards wide, with regular
soundings to the dry banks at its mouth, where a little way inside it divides
into two branches, one to the eastward, and the other to the westward.
About a mile up the western branch is the town where the chief rajah re-
sides. On the banks of the eastern branch stands another town, and there
are said to be other towns further up the river. The people on the coast
are generally Malays ; those in the interior are Bataks. European vessels
discontinued visiting this place for many year-, owing to the perfidious con-
duct of the Malays, who formerly cut off several vessels that touched here to

1. A. V

146 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

trade. Nevertheless the people of Batu Barra appear more industrious and
better inclined to trade than is usual with the other inhabitants of this
coast ; and they carry in their own proas, to Penang and Malacca, the rattans,
pepper, or other articles produced here. Goats and poultry are plentiful, at
reasonable prices.

The BROTHERS, two small islets, lie oflF Batu Barra, at 10^ and 15^
miles respectively, to the N.E. by E. The northernmost, Pulo Pandan, or
Quandan, is much lower than Pulo Varela, from which it lies S.S.E. f E.
25i miles distant. It is covered with wood, and surrounded on all sides by
a reef to a considerable distance off it. Therefore it should not be made
"free with. The southernmost, Pulo Salanama, is larger, and much more
bold-to, although there are some rocks stretching from its North end for
above half a mile, and another rock or islet lies to the E^st of its South end.
The channel between the two islets, 4 miles in width, is perfectly safe with
20 to 30 fathoms water ; and there is also a channel inside Pulo Salanama,
about 3 miles in width, but then it should be borne in mind that the Suma-
tran coast is here bordered by an extensive shelf, which extends for nearly 5
miles off the point to the southward of the southern Brother. Prom this
circumstance, it should not be used except under great necessity, seeing that
the course outside it is so much preferable. There are several other spots
shown on the charts, which will demonstrate the necessity of caution, should
a vessel get too far over to the Sumatran side. The best course is, as before
directed, to the eastward of Pulo Jarra.

The COAST of Sumatra south-eastward of Batu Barra is laid down on the
charts from the surveys of Lieuts. Rose and Moresby, I.N., and has not been
so minutely examined as that to the north-westward ; but this is of the less
importance, as a great portion of it is unapproachable to shipping, in con-
sequence of an extensive mud flat which stretches off it for many miles.

Assarhan River, in lat. 3° U'N., long. 99° 52J' E., has a mud flat, ex-
tending from its entrance 8 miles to the N.E., upon which the soundings
regularly decrease. From hence to Reccan River care is required not to
approach too near the coast, as several mud flats extend to a considerable
distance, upon the verge of which the water shoals suddenly ; particularly
about 5 or 6 leagues to the S.E. of Assarhan River, fronting the bay of
Lidang and its contiguous rivers, where the flat extends Zh leagues from the
shore at the bottom of that bay.

RECCAN, or Rakan River, has at the entrance two islands, Pulo Lalang
Besar, in lat. 2° 12' N., long. 100° 36J' E., and Pulo Lalang Kechel ; the
former is the largest, from which the other bears S. by E. ^ E., about 2;^
miles ; and there is a shoal channel between them leading into the river.
They are low and woody, and not discernible above 10 miles. Having
passed between these islands, and being a little to the eastward of them, the
entrance to the river bears S.E. f E., and extends in this direction about 30

PULO EOUPAT. 147

miles ; then a small and shoal bank projects to the westward, called Banha ;
but the main branch takes a S.E. direction, and is called Tanah Putie River,
having a town of the same name at the mouth of this branch, which is here
about IJ mile wide, and is said to take its rise from the mountains. It is
shoal and dangerous, from the rapidity of the tides ; but several large and
populous villages are said to stand on its banks, subject to the Rajah of
Siak. The g-reatest breadth of the mouth of Reccan River is about 15 miles,
decreasing about 8 or 9 miles up to 4 miles, afterwards 2 miles, and then
continuing this breadth till it forms the two branches mentioned above. It
is almost dry at low water spring tides, and is rendered exceedingly dan-
gerous by their excessive rapidity of 7 miles per hour, producing a bore en
the springs, and having a rise and fall of 30 ft.

At the mouth of the river it is high water at 6 hours on full and change
of the moon ; the rise and fall of tide about 26 ft. ; and here the velocity of
the stream is about 5^ miles per hour, but it becomes much greater a few
miles up. On the bank of the river the Nautilus found a straggling village,
whence the inhabitants came off in great numbers, and entreated to be ad-
mitted on board, under pretence of friendship, which was refused excepting
to a few of them. They afterwards, without the least provocation, endea-
voured to cut off one of the boats, which had got adrift by the rapidity of
the tide.

The Arroa Isles, described previously, lie oflf the mouth of the river, 40
miles to the northward.

From Eeccan River the land on the eastern bank projects to the N.W.,
forming the headland called Vjong Perhahean, in lat. 2° \&h' N., from which
a mud flat extends to the N.W. and N.N.W. about 10 miles, and upon this
flat the soundings decrease regularly. When clear to the eastward of this
bank, and having Ujong Perbabean bearing S.W., and Parcelar Hill N.E.,
you enter upon the most dangerous part of this coast, its various sand banks
extending from it over to the South Sands, with gaps and narrow channels
of mud soundings between them. As the soundings afford no guide in ap-
proaching these banks, the depth decreasing suddenly upon them, it is neces-
sary for a vessel intending to pass between them to have a boat ahead sound-
ing, and a good lookout kept from the fore-yard, for the shoal banks are
plainly seen when the sky is clear in the daytime.

PULO EOUPAT, the North point of which is called UJong Bantam, is
in lat. 2° 8' N., long. 101° 40^' E. It is bold to approach, having 30 fathoms
within \\ mile of the shore. The eastern side of this island is bold until the
entrance of Brewers Strait is approached, where a mud bank extends out
from the shore of Pulo Roupat about 5 or 6 miles between the North point
of Pulo Roupat and Ujong Perbabean, the coast forms a deep bight, which
is fronted by an extensive sand bank ; this bank, together with those in the

148 THE STRAIT OF MALACCA.

offing, mentioned above, render this part of the Sumatra side of the strait
very intricate and dangerous.

BREWERS STRAIT, or Salat Panjang. — The North entrance of this strait
is formed between the mainland of Sumatra and Pulo Bucalisse ; Tanjo-ng Jati,
the North end of the latter, being in lat. 1° 36i' N., long. 101° 59' E., a
shoal bank, extends 8 miles to the northward from the point.

The northern navigable part of this strait is about 5 miles wide, with
soundings of 8 to 15 and 20 fathoms, mud ; and 8 miles from the entrance,
on the western shore, is the town of Bukit Batu, upon the banks of a very
narrow river of the same name. The town is not easily perceived, the houses
being scattered among and hid by the trees ; but it may be known by a tree,
formed like an umbrella, near the entrance of the river.

At Ujo7ig Ballai, a point of Sumatra, 3A- leagues to the S.E. of Bukit Batu
Eiver, the strait becomes contracted to 3 or 4 miles in breadth ; and opposite
to the point is the entrance to the narrow strait called Salat Padang, affording
a safe passage for boats ; it is formed between Pulo Bucalisse and Pulo Pa-
dang. From Ujong Ballai, Brewers Strait turns from a S.E. to a South
direction, till opposite the mouth of the Siak Eiver.

From the entrance of Siak Piver, Brewers Strait extends S.S.E. to the
western end of Pulo Eantow, where it contracts to 1 mile in breadth, with
regular mud soundings from 8 to 10 fathoms. Between Pulo Eantow and
Pulo Padang is formed a channel leading to the sea, called Salat Ringit by
the natives, and said to be used only by boats. From the western end of
Pulo Eantow the strait takes an easterly direction about 20 miles, with
depths from 10 to 15 fathoms, till a small island in mid straits is approached,
on each side of which the passage is practicable, taking care to avoid the
stream of the island, as a mud flat extends from it to the westward 2^ miles
in the middle of the strait. From hence the direction to the strait is to the
S.E., and, after passing three small islands on the port hand, the southern
entrance opens, oflf which there are a great number of islands. The safest
channel out appears to be between Panton Point and Pulo Senappu, having
regular but shoal soundings of only 1 fathom at low water in some parts.

SIAK RIVER, the entrance of which is in lat. 1° 11^' N., long. 102° 12^' E.,
on the western side of Brewers Strait, is about three-quarters of a mile wide,
having a sandy spit, nearly dry at low water, extending almost across, but
leaving a safe, although very narrow channel, close to Ujong Liang, the
eastern entrance point ; the river becomes narrow, with deep soundings in-
fiide, and is said to have its source in the mountains.

The town of Siak stands at 65 miles from the mouth of the river. The
Nautilus anchored in 6 fathoms, mud, within a quarter of a mile of the mouth
of the Siak Eiver, and found the time of high water at full and change of the
moon to be 9 hours ; rise and fall of the tide about 12 ft., and the velocity 2\
xniles per hour.

CAMPOU EIVEE. 149

Campou River, in lat. 0° 43' N., long. 103° 0' 30" E., is fronted by an ex-
tensive mud flat, almost dry at low water ; and it is little frequented on
account of the rapidity of the tides, occasioning a bore at times similar to
that of Reccan River, which it resembles in several respects. In approach-
ing the southern entrance of Brewers Strait, the tides are greatly influenced
by this river, producing a strong eddy round some of the islands, so that,
while the tide is running to the southward on one side of an island, it may
be often found running to the northward on the other side.

The rise and fall of tide near the southern entrance of Brewers Strait is
about 15 ft. in some parts, with a velocity of about 3i miles per hour, but
much greater when near the entrance of Campou River. The three islands,
Pulo Bucalisse, Padang, and Rantow, which form Brewers Strait, and also
Pulo Panjore, ought not to be approached but with great caution, at their
eastern sides, as they are fronted by an extensive mud flat, with dangerous
sand banks, in some places having only 1 J fathom water on them. These
form what is usually called the Sumatra Bank, or third bank in the Malacca
Strait to the N.W. of the Carimons, which has been before alluded to. The
Carimon Islands, which form the head of the Strait of Malacca, have been
described on page 136.

CHAPTEK lY.

THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

This important and remarkable passage, the great portal of the Indian Archi-
pelago, has been surveyed by the Dutch officers. Lieutenants Eietveld and
Boom, in 1848, and their survey has been improved by the observations of
many officers, especially by the late talented Melville Van Carnbee, of the
Dutch navy, who drew up an excellent hydrographical description of Java,
&c., which has been mainly followed hereafter.*

The Strait of Sunda is a singular break in the continuity of that great
chain of volcanic mountains which runs from N.W. to S.E. through Sumatra,
and is continued eastward through Java. This depression in the mountain
chains is not very much below the sea level, for the general maximum depth
of the strait is not more than from 30 to 50 fathoms. But this slight de-
pression, geologically speaking, has produced a great contrast in the islands

* The fine surveys and charts of great portions of the Indian Archipelago, which have
teen executed by the Dutch oflELcers attached to the Indian Possessions of that nation, have
only heen known and justly appreciated in this country within a few years. The " Com-
missie tot Verbetering der Indische Zeekarten " was instituted by the enlightened Governor
General of Dutch India, Van der Capellen, in 1821, and since that period the commission
has been sedulously and zealously occupied in surveying and collecting information in <all
the surrounding seas. Captain-Lieutenant Baron Peter Melville van Carnbee became the
secretary to the Dutch Commission, in 1850, and among numerous other works he was the
author of the " Zeemansgids voor de Vaarwaters om Java," which was soon translated into
the French and English languages, the latter being done by Dr. Norton Shaw, Secretary to
the Royal Geographical Society. Besides this, he drew up a fine series of charts from the
many scattered surveys and observations made by the Dutch officers under the commission ;
these charts were published by the respected house of Wed. G. H Van Keulen, of Am-
sterdam, and were afterwards copied in their main features by the English Admiralty, as
the basis for all subsequent charts. Young MelviUe van Carnbee died in 1856, in his
fortieth year, while engaged on the excellent " Algemeene Atlas Van Nederland's Oost
Indie."

To the works above quoted, very much is owing in the subsequent pages. — Editor.

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THE JAVA COAST. 151

on either side of it. Each has a distinct class of animal and vegetable life.
Thus the elephant and tapir of Sumatra have no existence in Java. The wild
hog and rhinoceros of Sumatra are of different species to those found in Java.
The orang-outang is found in Sumatra, but not in Java. The birds are also
quite different ; many important families belong to each, without having
them in common. These curious contrasts are also found to exi&t between
the islands further to the eastward. These remarkable facts in the distribu-
tion of life on the earth have been much discussed by naturalists, especially
by M. Temminck and Mr. A. R. Wallace.

The strait derives its name from the western portion of Java, which is
peopled by the Sunda nation, who speak a diff'erent language, and are less
advanced in civilization than the rest of the Javanese.

In its widest sense, the Strait of Sunda embraces a very large area. Be-
tween the western extremity of Java and the south-western end of Sumatra,
the distance is 68 miles, and the bearing N. W. I N. and S.E. f S. ; and from
this line to another at its N.E. limits, between St. Nicholas Point on Java,
to the opposite side on Sumatra, the distance is 74 miles. The narrowest
part of the strait is between Fourth Point on the Java side, and Hog Point
in Sumatra, 1 3 miles apart. There are numerous islands in it, which sepa-
rate the strait into several channels, of which that along the Java coast is
the most used; the lofty and conspicuous island Krakatoa being the great
land-mark from the westward, all the headlands being more or less grand in
their character.

The Dutch nation holds the sovereignty of the shores on either side, and
being the surveyors of the strait, have the right to give the names and ortho-
graphy to the points and islands, but as their excellent and expressive lan-
guage is not so generally used, it will be preferred to give these common
names in an English form (adding the Dutch), and the spelling in the
ordinarily recognized form for pronunciation.

THE JAVA COAST.

The south-eastern side of the Strait of Sunda is formed by that portion of
Java which gives its name to it, as before mentioned. The state extends
eastward to Cheribon, and includes Batavia, the capital, embracing nearly
one-third of Java. It is a mountainous country, but containing some rich
valleys, and is said to bear the same relation to Java proper that Wales does
to England, or the highlands to the lowlands of Scotland. It is more thinly
populated, and the people less advanced than in the rest of Java.

The volcanic ranges which traverse it, in continuation of that extending

152 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

throughout the length of Java, give it a peculiarly bold character. Many
of the peaks visible from sea attain to great elevation. Karang, in the rear
of Anjir, is the loftiest, 5,943 ft. ; and a few miles to the South of it is
Pulusari, 4,183 ft. ; several others reach to between 2,000 and 3,000 ft.
The peak at the southward of Krakatoa Island is 2,623 ft. ; and Bezee, to
the North of it, is 2,600 ft.

The coast is deeply indented, and has some sheltering bays, but Anjir
Eoads is the chief stopping place. Here is a Signal Station, at which an
officer will reply to and forward answers to signals to Batavia, &c., the tele-
graph system being perfect in the Dutch possessions. Lighthouses are shown
on the chief points, and the following directions in connection with the chart
will carry a ship through in safety.

Java Head, the western extremity of Java, and the S.W. point of the
Strait of Sunda, is a noble promontory, a fitting portal to that great entrance
to eastern countries. But as it is frequently prudent to make the land to the
eastward of the strait in apjjroaching it from the Southern Indian Ocean,
the features of the southern coast of Java for a short distance will be briefly
described first.

Trower Island, or Pulo Tinj'il, is 3^ or 4 miles in length, and its East end
is about 35 miles East of the meridian of Java Head. It is surrounded by
a reef. On the North and West sides of it there are from 13 to 19 fathoms
water, and at the S.E. and South sides, at some distance, no bottom at 50
and 100 fathoms. A mile to the northward of the island there is a rock, on
which the native proas have sometimes struck. Everywhere else round the
island from 13 to 19 fathoms will be found, and at a short distance to the
southward more than 100 fathoms.

Klapper Island, or Breakers Island, called by the Malays Ftdo Deli, 8 miles
distant from the nearest shore of Java, 13 miles West by South from Trower
Island, and about 18 miles E.S.E. from Cape Sangian Sira, the S.W. point
of Java. It is 148 ft high, covered with large trees, those along the beach
being cocoa-nut, and is surrounded by a reef, which in many places stretches
off a mile ; but on the N.W. side there is a good watering place in the S.E.
monsoon, as boats can enter a little river through a channel with reefs on
both sides, and ships may anchor in 18 to 24 fathoms, clay bottom, 2 miles
distant from the island, close to those reefs which partially dry at low water.
The depths are from 30 to 40 fathoms at 4 miles off the South shore of the
island.

Sodon Point, on the South coast of Java, is, as before said, 8 miles North
of Klapper Island. The head of Welcome Bay, on the North side of the
island, reaches to within 3 or 4 miles of this southern coast.

Along the coast to the northward of Klapper and Trower Islands, as far
as Cape Sangian Sira, there are rocks which in some places lie 1^ and 2
miles off; and no shelter whatever can be found there from S.W. and S.E.

THE COAST OF JAVA. 153

gales. A shoal lies to the eastward of Sodon Point, about H mile from the
shore. It bears N. ^ E. from the East point of Klapper Island, and N.W.
by W. f W. from the "West point of Trowers Island.

When making Java Head in hazy weather, the appearance of the land to
the eastward of Cape Sangian Sira, between it and Sodon Point, bears much
resemblance to the high land of the West point of Java, with the adjacent
hills on Princes Island ; and the low land in such circumstances not being
distinguishable at a distance, the position of it is often mistaken for the
entrance to Princes Channel.

From Java Head the coast runs S. by E. f E. about 4J miles to Palem-
bang Point, which is 1 j mile northward of Cape Sangian Sira.

CAPE SANGIAN SIRA, the most southern point of this part of Java, is
in lat. 6° 52' S., long. 105° 14' E. It is the S. W. point of an irregular mass
of mountains, which rise abruptly from the sea to a height of 1,050 and
1,300 ft. on the eastern side, and to 618 and 1,400 ft. on the western side.
From this cape, and 1^ mile to the southward, several rocks project, some
of which are above water. Captain Newby, in passing close round by
Palembang Point, thought he saw a clear but narrow channel inside these
terrific pinnacle-shaped rocks, which might be used by keeping the point on
board, but it should not be tried. The soundings are very deep close to these
rocks, and along the shore as far as Java Head there is no bottom with 100
fathoms ; but as the breakers which line the whole coast seem to indicate
that there are rocks under water, it will be advisable to give the shore a
berth of at least 2 miles in passing.

From Cape Sangian Sira the soundings decrease in the direction of Klap-
per Island to 40 and 20 fathoms ; while farther eastward, between this island
and Trower Island, they decrease from 20 to 12 fathoms.

Palembang Point is the N.W. point of the promontory of which Sangian
Sira is the South extreme. They are a mile apart, and the reef of pointed
rocks around the land here comes close up. The coast to the northward, for
a distance of 4^ miles to Java Head, is formed by the steep-sided mountains
before described, which are dark, covered with trees, some of which on the
summits are very large. No signs of any inhabitants. Under these dark
frowning hills is a belt of green herbage, and then a sandy beach of dazzling
whiteness, with several detached steep rocks, some of which would look like
a boat under sail.

JAVA HEAD.— The West point of Java is in lat. 6° 46' 40" S., long. 105°
12' 22" E. Being frequently the first land made after a long voyage across
the Atlantic, and round the Cape of Good Hope, its lofty and majestic
character strikes those who approach near it with greater force than even
its natural features would command. Captain Newby was much struck with
its grandeur. He says : — It is composed of a confused mass of cliffs jum-
bled together. Two hundred yards North of it is a splendid arch or chasm,

I. A. i

U>4 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

in a high detached rock, through which the surges roll their white foam.
Through the arch ou the main you behold the most luxuriant green vegeta-
tion, contrasting with the white surge, the sombre cliffs, and the variegated
surface of the ocean. This arch resembled the cloisters of some ancient
cathedral. Three hundred yards to the North of this first-named arch is
another, but smaller one, of similar character. Through this is seen the
white sand and shells ou the beach, and between the water is of a light
green shade ; outside, between us and the arch, the water being deeper, is
of a darker green. Sailing on, the projection, or point, called the Capuchin,
appeared, and soon after the Friar, for which, as the wind was rather scant
off, I hauled up, and the water being very smooth, I passed it at not more
than one cable's length distance, at b'^ 15™. I could not see any hidden
danger or rock under water in my track. When we had passed the Friar,
and neared Mew Island, he appeared conspicuous. But as the land be-
tween is very high, and very thickly wooded, the Friar could not be very
well made out as seen from a vessel in the offing, unless she was well to the
eastward. From W.S.W. it did not appear to me to be an island at all ;
there seemed to be dry rocks between it and the hill to the South, which
connected the Friar with the higher land to the southward. liound the
pitch of the Friar there is a very fine spacious-looking bay, called Mew Bay.
There seems to be a low black detached rocky islet, a mile or so beyond the
Friar to the S.E., but it is nearer the West than the East side very much.
This bay seems very snug and convenient for anchoring in with a wind any
■way from the E.N.E. round by the southward to S.W.

FIRST POINT {Eerste Punt), and the Friars Eoch.—The coast between
Java Head and First Point forms a bight, and is fronted by high rocks,
stretching out a considerable distance in some places. First Point, or Tan-
jong Along-Ajang, the South point of entrance into Princes Channel, has a
conspicuous rock lying abreast of it, called the Friar {Be Mo7inih), before
alluded to, which rises abruptly out of the sea, and is steep-to, so that with
a steady wind a ship may pass close to it. Close to the northward of First
Point there is another rock above water, which together with the former are
properly called the Friars.

The LIGHTHOUSE on First Point was first illuminated in June, 1877.
It is a stone tower, painted white, from which is shown a revolving light, ex-
hibiting a flash of six seconds' duration once in every half minute. The
light is elevated 305 ft. above the sea, and should be visible 25 miles off' in
clear weather.

PRINCES ISLAND {Prinsen Eiland), cr Pulo Panatan, separated from the
West part of Java by Princes Channel, is the largest island in Sunda Strait.
Its greatest length, between the West and N.E. points, is 12 miles, and its
breadth about 8 miles. It is of an irregular form, projecting to a point on
the N.E. side, and having a large bay on the S.W. side, the horns of which

PRINCES CHANNEL. 155

form the "West and South points of the island. The middle and eastern
parts of the island are hilly, the highest peak, 1,450 ft. above the level of
the sea, being on the eastern shore ; but in some parts, particularly at the
West end, the land is level and low from the sea ; all parts of the island
abound in wood.

A ship in want of water may anchor on the eastern side of this island in
35 fathoms, soft ground, about half a mile from the shore, with the peaked
hill bearing about N. W. by N. Here is a small sandy bay, and at its eastern
part a run of fresh water, where the casks must be filled about 100 yards
up, the higher the better, otherwise the water will be brackish.

It is, however, only in the N W. monsoon that water can be procured
here, for in the S.E. monsoon all the springs are dry from want of rain, and
there is, moreover, no safe anchorage in this monsoon along the East side of
the island, as it is a dead lee shore.

Kasuaris Bay, on the S.W. side of the island, is 4 miles deep, and has
at its entrance soundings varying from 30 to 50 fathoms, decreasing inside
to a convenient depth for anchoring ; but, being open to all winds between
the West and South points, it is not frequented, and cannot be recom-
mended.

The Carpenters {Timmerlieden) are a large group of rocks about a mile in
extent, projecting from the South point of Princes Island. Most of the
rocks are above water ; they are black and pointed, looking very dangerous,
and the sea is usually breaking over them. There is no bottom with 50
fathoms a short distance from these rocks.

The West point of Princes Island is fronted by a reef to the distance of
about Ih mile, several rocks of which are seen above water.

On the N.W. and North sides the island is steep-to close to the fringe of
reef which edges those shores.

A fringe of reef extends from the N.E. point of the island, and along the
shore on each side.

A similar fringe extends about a third of a mile off the S.E. point of the
island ; nearly 2 miles W.S.W. of which, close inshore, and near a conspi-
cuous white rock, is a coral reef, upon which the sea is always breaking.

PRINCES CHANNEL, between the Carpenters Ptocks ojBf the South end
of Princes Island, and the Friars Eocks off the First point of Java, is 3
niiles broad at its narrowest part, and possesses the great advantage of
affording anchorage to vessels when becalmed, which the Great Channel
does not. Light baffling winds and calms are very common about the
entrances to Sunda Strait, occurring even in the strength of the S.E. mon-
soon, and vessels, when not able to anchor, are liable to be set back by
adverse currents.

The depths in this channel are much greater on the Princes Island shore
thau on the opposite coast. Close to the Carpenters there is no bottom

156 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA.

with 50 fathoms ; with Peaked Hill, on the S.E. part of the island, bearing
from N. I W. to W. by N., there are 10 to 30 fathoms, coarse sand, shells,
and coral, little more than a cable's length oflF shore ; with the same hill
bearing from N.N.W. to S.W. there are 36 to 44 fathoms about a mile dis-
tant from the shore. Towards Mew Bay the depths decrease to 20 fathoms
and less.

Directions. — In the S.E. monsoon, when proceeding either way through
Princes Channel keep closer to the Java coast than to Princes Island.

In the N.W. monsoon it often happens that vessels outward bound get
very quickly to the westward by proceeding through Princes Channel, while
those using the Great Channel are detained by heavy squalls and adverse
currents. Indeed, instances have occurred in which ships have worked
through this passage in a remarkably short time in a westerly gale, by
carrying a heavy press of sail, and tacking between the squalls, at times
when it was impossible for any ship in the Great Channel to beat against the
current and heavy sea.

Proceeding through Princes Channel in this monsoon, keep near Princes
Island and the Carpenters, especially when working out against westerly
winds, for a current will then sometimes be found setting to the westward.
It is moreover very important to keep close to the Carpenters when working
out, to avoid being set upon the rocks near Java Head and Palembang Point
by the heavy swell, for, being once outside anchoring ground, and in a calm,
a ship would have much trouble to clear the coast of Java. The S.E. coast
of Princes Island must not, however, be approached within a mile.

GREAT CHANNEL lies between the North point of Princes Island and
the South point of Krakatoa Island, which are 23 miles apart; and although
too deep for anchorage, it is much frequented, being the widest passage into
the strait, and is considered to be, with the exception of the doubtful
Hoedeken Rock,* clear of danger. If the strait is entered by this channel,
keep Princes Island aboard, and when farther in the strait, keep on the Java
shore.

MEW ISLAND (Meeuwen Eiland), or Pulo Kanti, lying about 2J miles
eastward from First Point, is nearly 2 miles in extent North and South, and
1 mile East and West. The island is hilly, and abounds with wood.
Between it and First Point, close inshore, is a small islet or rock above

* Hoedeken Sock is said to lie about 5 miles S.W. f S. from Krakatoa. Captain Drury,
R.N., is reported to have examined a rock S.S.W. of Krakatoa some years ago, and found
it to be near the water's edge. The Abdul Hassim, drawing 14 feet, is also said to have
struck upon a rock, from which the peak of Krakatoa bore N.E. \ N., distance from the
nearest part of the island 6 miles. There is, however, reason to believe that no rock
e-xists in thi.s locality, for Mr. Richards, commanding EL.M. surveying vessel Saracen, care-
fuUv sounded over it in 1854.

SECOND POINT— WELCOME BAY. 157

water, called the Mew Stone. The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew
Island, but safe to approach. The soundings decrease gradually to 8 or 9
fathoms.

Between Mew Island and the main there is a narrow but safe channel,
with depths from 10 to 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. When taking this pas-
sage, keep close in towards Mew Island, as a shoal, called the Watson Bank,
lies near the Java shore. Sometimes the sea breaks upon this bank, but
between it and Mew Island there are depths of 3, 5, and 10 fathoms, clay
bottom.

To the eastward of Mew Island, on the Java shore, there is a good water-
ing place in the S.E. monsoon ; the water is excellent, and is poured by a
cataract upon the beach. Largeboats may approach this spot at high water
through a narrow channel in the reef, and fill the cask by a hose. At low
water they will require a great length of hose to reach the boats.

A little to the northward of the watering place lies a reef of coral, about
a cable's length in extent, and about half a mile from the Java shore.
Upon its shoalest part there is 1 fathom water, and all round from 5 to 6
fathoms. A ship standing in for the watering place, must steer between
this reef and the island, or rather nearer towards the island, and anchor in
9 or 10 fathoms.

In the S.E. monsoon there is also a good anchorage a little farther out,
with the North point of Mew Island about W. ^ S., and the East point
S. by W., in 16 to 19 fathoms water, sandy bottom.

Plenty of wood may be got upon Mew Island or the main land. Shore
parties should be on the guard against any hidden assaults from the natives.

At Mew Bay it is high water, full and change, at about 6''.

SECOND POINT {Tweede Punt, or Tanjong Gukulang, consists of a low
foreland, somewhat broad in appearance, the western extremity of which
lies about N.E. by E., nearly 9 miles distant from First Point, and its
northern extremity— which is usually known as Second Point — about 3 miles
farther to the north-eastward. It may be approached without danger to
the distance of a mile or even half a mile, and in from 26 to 20 fathoms
water, the reefs projecting a little way off shore.

From Mew Island towards Second Point reefs project half a cable's length
from the shore, having very near them 5 to 6 fathoms water, which increases
speedily to 10 and 20 fathoms ; but with due care and attention to the lead
a ship may approach the shore in order to anchor. On the coast there is
scarcely any population, but sometimes proas may be met with having turtle
fowls, and cocoa-nuts for sale.

WELCOME BAY ^Welkomst Baai).—^.'E.. by E., distant 20J miles from
Second Point is Third Point, and between is a deep bight, named Welcome
Bay, which in the S.E. monsoon affords good shelter, but should be avoided
in the S.W. monsoon. There is, however, good anchorage in the S.AV.

158 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

monsoon, when the wind is not too northerly, behind Second Point in 9 or
10 fathoms water; but this anchorage should be approached with great
caution, as the soundings decrease very suddenly near Second Point, and a
shoal with 12 ft. water on it and 6 fathoms close-to, extends half a mile off
shore between Second Point and Tambing Point.

The West side of the bay takes from Second Point a direction about
S.S.E. i E. for a distance of 11 miles, but about the middle of it the beach
forms a small bight, with 4 fathoms at its entrance, but only 1 fathom further
in. The whole of this side of the bay is skirted by reefs, some parts of which
are a mile distant from the shore.

Lieuts. Rietveld and Boom, D.E.N., surveyed Welcome Bay in 1841, and
determined the positions of the shoals and islands given below. A large
portion of the bay inside Panter and Rocky Ridge Reefs has not been ex-
amined, but it is supposed to be dangerous.

Two small islets, named Andellan and Little Andellan, lie contiguous to
the S.W. shore of the bay, about 8 miles from Second Point, and 5 miles from
Rocky Ridge. Three sand banks, each surrounded by a sunken reef, lie
from half to three-quarters of a mile off these islands, in a N.N.E., East, and
S.E. direction. Between these banks and Andellan are from 4 to 6 fathoms,
mud; and between that island and the shore from three-quarters to If
fathom. Near the liead of the bay, to the eastward of a small islet named
Eongit, is a fourth bank.

The distance across from the southern shore of Welcome Bay to the South
Coast of Java is not more than 3 miles, and the sound of the surf on the
South coast may be distinctly heard across the isthmus.

The eastern shore of the bay is 22 miles in length, from the head of the
bay to Third Point, in a direction about N.N.E., and the general depths off
it are 15 to 24 fathoms at some little distance from the coast. Several islets
and dano-ers lie off this shore. Baddu (Baddoe) is a small islet, surrounded
by a reef, lying about 5 miles from the head of the bay, and about U mile
N.W. of a point named Tanhjngi Parrie. Between this point and the islet
are many coral rocks, for the most part dry at low water, and with depths of
7 to 9 fathoms between them.

A large coral rock above water, usually covered with a heavy surf, and
appearing of a bright white colour, lies W. i^ N., about \^ mile from Baddu ;
and near it appear to be several reefs. Between the rock and the island are
6 to 12 fathoms water.

Five or 6 miles north-eastward of Baddu is Plaggan Point, or False Rook,
with some islands off it, the southernmost of which is called Mangir, and the
others War, Umang (Oemang), and Sumiir (Soemoer). These islands, as well
as Plaggan Point, are surrounded by reefs, a cable in breadth, but at a mile
outside there are 15 fathoms, over mud bottom.

Rocky Ridge is an extensive reef mostly above water, and always covered

THIRD POINT— PEPPER BAY. 159

by breakers, by whicb it may be distinguished at a great distance. It lies
about halfvray between the western shore of the bay and the Panter Reefs ;
and from it Second Point bears N.W. by W. | W., the South puint of
Baddu S.E. by E. J E., and the East point of Andellan S. ^ E. That part
of it which remains dry at low water is about 100 yards in length, and the
breadth of the surrounding reef the same. The soundings round it are 10
and 12 iathoms, increasing at some distance to 18 and 19 fathoms.

Panter Reefs are the outermost of the known dangers which encumber
"Welcome Bay, and they lie nearly midway between Second Point and Plag-
gan Point. Erom their North extremity, in 11 fathoms, Second Point bears
W. f N., Third Point N E. J N. 16 miles, the East point of Andellan Island
S. by W. i W., and the S.W. point of Baddu Island S.E. ^ S. They con-
sist of four different patches, lying in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction from
each other, the whole being from half to three-quarters of a mile in extent.
The shoalest patch has IJ fathom water, rocky bottom, but between and close
round them are 9 and 10 fathoms, mud.

East and West of these reefs are 17 and 18 fathoms, and to the north-
ward 20 and 25 fathoms.

Welcome Bay appears to be fuU oi dangers not surveyed, and should be
entered with extreme caution.

THIRD POINT {Berde Point), or Tanjong Lussong, like Second Point, is
very low, although sharper, and fronted by rocks to the distance of 2 cables,
from which the depths increase to 10 and 18 fathoms. The peak of Krakatoa
Island bears N.W. by N. from it, and is distant about 21 miles.

PEPPER BAY {Pej)er Baai).—'N.'E. by E. ^ E. 11 miles from Third Point
is PapoUe Island, and between is Pepper Bay, which is formed by the coast
trending away from Third Point to the southward for a distance of nearly 5
miles. Its shores are fronted by reefs, which near the points project about
half a mile, increasing their distance from the shore towards the depth of
the bay, where they extend lA mile. The bay is also encumbered with
two dangerous reefs known as the Coral Bank and Paniang Reef. The
soundings in the bay generally decrease uniformly from 14 to 10, 5, and 4
fathoms ; the latter depth will be found 2 miles off shore. In the eastern
monsoon there is safe anchorage N.E. of Lawvengan Isle, in 6 or 8 fathoms,
soft bottom.

Coral Bank. — Nearly 2 miles East from Third Point is a coral bank, the
greater part of which is above water, and readily distinguished by its bright
white colour. The direction of this bank is S.E. by E. and N.W. by W.,
about 3 cables in length, and from it Third Point bears W. i S., the N.E.
point of Lawvengan S.E. J E., and the West point of Papolle N.E. by E.
Between this bank and Third Point there is a channel of 4 to 9 fathoms
■water, and the depths increase quickly from 7 to 15 fathoms at the distance
of a mile.

160 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

Lawvengan Islet, lying in the depth of Pepper Bay, E. byS. J S., distant
3J miles from Third Point, is about three-quarters of a mile long, a aN.W.
^ W. and S.E. h E. direction, a quarter of a mile broad, and is surrounded
by a reef, which projects farthest at the North side, where it reaches the dis-
tance of 1 J cable's length.

Three-quarters of a mile to the north-westward and to the westward of
Lawvengan Islet are two reefs, partly dry at low water, and usually breaking.
To the southward, and mid-channel between Lawvengan Isle and the shore,
is a reef with only 3 ft. water upon it, between which and the island there is
a narrow channel with 3 and 4 fathoms ; but between it and the shore are
several small coral reefs that dry at low water.

Paniang Reef is a ledge of rocks, the N.W. point of which bears W. by
S. I S. IJ mile from the N.W. point of Papolle Island. It is a mile long,
in a N.N.W. and opposite direction, and half a mile in breadth, and the
shoalest water upon it is 3 ft., and on some parts from 1 to 3 fathoms are
found. This ledge is very dangerous, as the sea does not often break upon
it, and it cannot be approached by the lead, the depths very near it being 6
and 7 fathoms ; but by keeping a good lookout it may be distinguished by
the light colour of the water, and its brown patches.

Between Paniang Reef and Papolle Island, the soundings are 7 to 4 fa-
thoms, mud bottom ; and on the East and S.E. sides of the reef 5 to 3 fa-
thoms, towards the shore.

Papolle Island, small, round, and about half a mile in diameter, lies
within a mile of the shore, with which it is connected by a reef; there is,
however, a channel of IJ fathom through this reef, fit for the navigation of
proas.

Tyringin or Tjeringie Reef, lying 5 miles North of Papolle Islet, and
two-thirds of a mile off the shore near Tjeringie, is of coral, partly above
water, and generally breaks. It is half a mile in extent N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and very steep, having close outside of it 6 fathoms water, increasing to 9,
12, and 15 fathoms at 2 miles distance from the shore.

Between this reef and a small rock near the shore there is a channel of 3
fathoms, often used by large proas.

Anchorage. — Supplies may be obtained at Tjeringie, and a convenient an-
chorage will be found to the northward of Tjeringie Eeef, at 1^ mile off
shore, with Papolle bearing S. by E., and the flagstaff at Tjeringie E. by S.
or E.S.E., in 7 fathoms, clay bottom.

The COAST from Tjeringie runs N. by E. and N.N.E., and may be ap-
proached, with due attention to the lead, to 2 miles distance, in 18 fathoms,
without danger of striking upon the Catharine Eeef. The general appear-
ance of the coast is low, though occasionally interrupted by hills and con-
Bpicuous rocky points.

Catharine Bank, lying about 4 miles to the southward of Fourth Point,

FOURTH POINT. 161

and half a mile off shore, is a quarter of a cable in extent, N. by E. and
S. by W., with some rocky points even with the water's edge, and in other
places only half a fathom water ; with a little breeze the sea breaks upon it.
From its outer edge Fourth Point bears N.N.E. ^ E., Krakatoa Peak West
a little southerly, and the West point of Thwart-the-way N. 2 W.

Outside this reef are 4 fathoms water, increasing to 10, 14, and 18 fa-
thoms, the latter depth being within a mile of it; the channel between it
and the shore has 3f and 4 fathoms, and is used by proas.

Directions. — With a steady and commanding breeze a ship may steer
N.N.E. from Third Point for Thwart-the-way, which is distant 30 miles ; or
a N.N.E. ^ E. course for 26 miles, which will place her 2 or 3 miles off
Fourth Point, when she may either proceed on her voyage or haul in for
Anjer Road. Very often, however, the winds become light and variable
there, and she may be compelled to anchor, in which case these courses
would lead too far from the land. For these reasons it is better to keep on
the Java shore, avoiding, however, the dangers in Pepper Bay, which
should not be approached under a depth of 14 fathoms.

When the current is running to the westward in the middle of Sunda
Strait, an eddy will be experienced near the land, besides which, a vessel
may be anchored anywhere along the shore, except near Fourth Point, where
the bottom begins to get foul and rocky. When beating up, therefore, with
a contrary wind, it is advisable not to keep too far out in the offing, in order
to make the eddy available, and not to lose favourable anchoring ground,
and perhaps be compelled to anchor in deep water.

Along the coast to the northward of Tjeringie there are numerous villages
(campongs), the inhabitants of which frequently come on board ship with
fruit, fowls, eggs, &c., and often with turtle.

FOURTH POINT ( Vierde Pmit), or Tanjong Tyhoravg, bearing N.N.E. f E.,
distant nearly 27 miles from Third Point, is low, but easily discerned from its
numerous cocoa-nut trees. From it the nearest point of Thwart-the-way
bears N.N.W. b\ miles, and Krakatoa Peak W. by S. nearly 27 miles.

LIGHT. — In 1865 a stone lighthouse was erected on Fourth Point, near
to the old tower. It is coloured white, 35 feet high, and exhibits, at 151
feet above the level of the sea, a. fixed white light of the second order, visible
in clear weather at 20 miles off. A second light, visible 8 miles off, is shown
in the direction of the telegraph cable, and vessels are warned not to anchor
with both the lights in sight, or in the day time with the Lighthouse bearing
between S.E. i S. and E. by S. f S.

A signal station is attached to the lighthouse, from which signals by the
Commercial Code will be answered or transmitted.

Caution should be observed in approaching or rounding Fourth Point, for
a reef projects from it more than half a mile, with soundings of 20 fathoms

I. A. Y

162 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

close-to. Outside, or to the northward, the depths increase quickly to 25
fathoms, and at 2 or 3 miles off the point to 30 fathoms. The point should
not, therefore, be approached any nearer than H niile when rounding it.
The telegraph cable between Fourth Point and Anjer is marked by three
white huoijs.

ANJER.— At 2 miles E.N.E. from Fourth Point is the flagstaff at Anjer,
in lat. 6° 3' 10" S., long. 105° 54' 50" E. The town is not easily perceived in
coming from the westward, being situated in a bay where the houses are
scattered amongst the cocoa-nut trees, and nearly obscured by them, and by
a spur of a chain of hills inland. The easternmost of these is a sharp peaked
hill called Anjer Peak, directly over the town, and is on with it bearing
S.S.E.

A red light is shown on the extremity of the western pier of the boat creek
at Anjer Point. It is elevated 23 ft., and visible 4 miles off.

The Road or anchorage is N. by W. from the fort in from 12 to 19 fathoms
water, soft ground. From a position in 16 fathoms, three-quarters of a mile
off sh'^re, the flagstaff of the fort bears S.S.E., Fourth Point S.W. \ S., the
Cap N.N.E. i E., and the Button N. ^ E. ; and from thence the soundings
decrease uniformly to 9 and 8 fathoms at about a cable's length from the
reef which fringes the shore, This is but an indifferent roadstead in the
N.W. monsoon, and landing is dangerous on account of the high surf. At
this season the anchorage near North Island, on the Sumatra shore might
be found more convenient.

In the S.E. monsoon, ships, both outward and homeward bound, generally
call here for water and refreshments, unless they are content to purchase the
latter from some of the numerous native boats usually to be met with on the
look out for vessels passing through the strait. Buffaloes, poultry, vegetables,
and frequently hogs, sheep, and turtle are to be procured here : water may
be had by applying to the shore boats.

There is a signal station at Anjer for communicating with passing vessels.
A telegraph cable crosses the strait from Anjer round the West end of Thwart-
the-way, close by Hog Point, and up the eastern coast of Lampong Bay, to
the coaling station near Telok Betong. Vessels should avoid anchoring in
its vicinity.

Light. — Two lights, each elevated 35 ft., are exhibited on the piers form-
ing the boat creek at Anjer Point.

Caution. — Ships should approach the anchorage of Anjer Road with great
caution, especially at night, paying particular attention to the lead. They
should not attempt to bring up in less than 15 or 13 fathoms, or they will
probably get too near the reef fronting the shore, very close to which are 8
and 7 fathoms water.

"In weighing from Anjer Road with a westerly wind and flood tide, a
vessel should cast as quickly as possible with her head off shore, and shoot

THWART-THE-WAY. 163

well into the strait, where she will have room and time to pick her anchor
up ; it being dangerous to keep a ship drifting in the road while heaving it
close up, in consequence of a steep rocky point to leeward, called Lenning.
A large ship was recently totally lost upon it, having drifted on while get-
ting her anchor to the bows.

" Ships have frequently found themselves in dangerous proximity to this
reef from anchoring in too small a depth of water, and with no room to veer
in the event of sudden and violent squalls, which, as in most tropical coun-
tries, are very common in this strait." — Capt. J. B. Caldheck.

THWART-THE-WAY {Dwars in den weg), or Pulo Renjang, lying in the
middle of the narrowest part of Sunda Strait, is 450 ft. high, and easily
recognized by its irregular shape. It is 2^ miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
and very steep all around, except at its southern extremity, where a reef
projects 2 or 3 cables' lengths, on which a rock above water is visible.
Capt. J. B. Caldbeck states that the reef projects a greater distance out than
is generally supposed from the southern end of Thwart-the-way ; and that
at low water the sea breaks more than a mile from the island. The
highest part of the island bears N. by W. f W., 6^ miles from Fourth Point,
S.W. by W. f W. from St. Nicholas Point, and N.E. by E. J E. from
Krakatoa.

The West side of the island forms a small bay, in which there is temporary
anchorage in 16 or 17 fathoms pretty close to the reef, with the N.W. point
bearing North to N.N.W., and the South point from E.S.E. to S.E. by E.
A 5 -fathom patch lies about a mile oflf this part of the island, with irregular
depths, 10 to 26 fathoms, around it.

CHANNELS. — The channel between Thwart-the-way and Java is the most
convenient for sailing vessels, owing to the depths of water being but from
20 to 30 fathoms, whereas the channel between Thwart-the-way and Sumatra
has 40 to 50 fathoms. The latter channel, described hereafter, is moreover
encumbered with the Stroom Rocks, in dangerous proximity to which ships
are liable to be set by rapid currents, and unable, from the great depth of
water, to bring up by anchoring.* The narrowest part of the channel be-
tween the rocks oflF the South point of Thwart-the-way and the reef off

* " "With regard to the respective merits of these channels, being bound either way
through the strait, the preference may he decidedly given to that between Anjer and
Thwart-the-way, in consequence of the great rapidity and uncertaint}' of the tides in the
neighbourhood of the Stroom Rocks, rendering their proximity very dangerous, and unless
in a strong breeze a ship is almost unmanageable. The depth of water on the Stroom side
is almost double that on the Anjer shore, except in a S.W. line from the Button to Thwart-
the-way. Instances have lately been known of ships which, being drifted dangerously
close to the Stroom Rocks, let go their anchors and run their cables out to the clinch ; they
were of course still whirled on until by a lucky chance they barely went past the rocks and
no more."— Capt. J. B. Caldbeck. Naul. Mag., 1843.

164 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

Foint is a little more than 4 miles ; and the distance is the same between the
S.E. end of Thwart-the-way and the Cap.

The Cap {Bralands hoeclje), or Pulo Vlar, is a small rourd-shaped island,
only about a cable's length in diameter, lying N. by E. 3 miles from Anjer,
and about E.S.E. 4 miles from the S.E. end of Thwart-the-way.

A shoal is said to lie between the Cap and the main land of Java, from
which Fourth Point bears S.W., and the Cap N.W. by W. ^ W.

BROUWERS SAND is a dangerous bank, lying between the Cap and
Merak Island, nearly 2 miles off the Java shore. It is composed of very
hard sand, and extends nearly 3 miles along the coast in a N.E. f N. and
opposite direction, its breadth being only 2 cables. There are three shoal
patches on the bank, the least water being IJ fathom at low tides, and the
general depths 3J or 4 fathoms. Its southern limit is 2J miles N.E. from
the Cap ; and its northern end forms with Merak Island a channel 2 cables
wide, with depths of 18 to 10 fathoms water.

Between this bank and the shore there is a channel a mile wide, with 6 to
10 fathoms water, which increases in the direction of the Cap to 15 and 20
fathoms. But in this channel a rock called Kroenjo, which partly dries at
low water, lies at 1^ or 2 cables off shore, with the Cap bearing S.W. by
W. i W., the Button N.W. i N., and the West point of Merak Island
N- I W. To avoid it, when standing in shore, the Cap should be kept inside
of Fourth Point, for the Cap in line with Fourth Point leads just outside the
edge of the bank.

GREAT MERAK ISLAND, or Pulo MeraTc Besar, lying N.E. f N. 5 J miles
from the Cap, is of considerable height, nearly round, and about half a mile
in diameter. The island is bordered by a reef, which on the N.W. side pro-
jects nearly a third of a mile.-

Little Merak, or Pulo Merak Ketchil, lies near the shore, abreast the North
end of Brouwers Sand, about half a mile to the south-eastward of Great
Merak. It is connected to the main by a reef of rocks, which is just under
water, and consequently cannot be passed by laden boats.

MERAK HARBOUR is between Great and Little Merak Islands and the
main coast of Java. It is nearly half a mile in extent, but in mid-channel
between the islands there is a rocky bank called Tarremhoe, which partly dries
at low water. The harbour may be entered by the channel on either side of
this bank, as they carry from 5 to 10 fathoms water. The channel into the
harbour North of Great Merak is the best, as it is more than a cable in
breadth, and carries 6 to 14 fathoms. Entering by the southern channels,
keep nearer to the Merak Islands than to the Tarremhoe Bank ; entering by
the northern channel, keep Great Island shore aboard.

The anchorage with S.W. winds is East from the highest part of Great
Merak, and North of Tarremhoe Bank, in 6 or 11 fathoms water, soft ground.
The Juva shore is steep-to. Sometimes a heavy swell sets into the harbour,

THE COAST OF SUM ATE A. 165

for which reason it is not to be considered safe for ships in the N.W. mon-
soon, but small vessels will always find good shelter under Great Merak.

The COAST from Merak Island takes a north-easterly direction for about
4^ miles to St. Nicholas Point. About midway between is a small islet,
named Tempoza, lying close in shore. A reef fronts this coast, extending
a third of a mile from it, and passing just outside Tempoza. Close to this
reef are depths of 10 and 15 fathoms. The shore should not be approached
nearer than half a mile, or in less than 20 or 18 fathoms water. The sound-
ings increase regularly from the shore to 30 fathoms ; at a distance of 4 miles
there are 40 to 50 fathoms.

The BUTTON {Toppers hoedje) is a high and steep little island covered with
trees, and about the size of the Cap, lying well out in the fairway of Sunda
Strait, 5 miles to the north-eastward of Thwart-the-way. It has 34 and 30
fathoms close-to, and bears from St. Nicholas Point AY. by S., distant nearly
7 miles, and from Hog Point E. | N., \2^ miles.

The Anna anchored, to wait a tide during the night, in 28 fathoms, E. 3° S.
from the Button ; and on another occasion she anchored for the night in 37
fathoms of water, with the Button bearing S.W. J S. : here, however, a
hard bottom was found.

ST. NICHOLAS POINT, inlat. 5° 52' 33" S., long. 106° 2' 10" E., is the
extreme end of the high bold promontory forming the northern point of Java.
Dangers extend about a third of a mile oflF the point, and close to them are
11 fathoms, and 32 to 35 fathoms at a distance of from 1 to 2 miles.

Directions. — When proceeding to the northward from, or being abreast of,
Anjer Poad, steer to pass outside the Cap and inside the Button, at any con-
venient distance from either, taking care not to borrow too close to Brouwers
Sand in passing. When clear of that shoal and the Button, steer about
N. by E. for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banka Strait ; or to pass St.
Nicholas Point at about 2 miles if bound to Bantam or Batavia.

THE COAST OF SUMATRA.

The western coast of Sumatra, terminating at the N.W. point of the Strait
of Sunda, is described in our " Directory for the Indian Ocean." The deeply
indented southern (.oast of this great island forms the northern side of the
strait.

It is occupied by the Lampiings, or Lampongs, a distinct people from the
other nations of Sumatra, resembling in this respect the people of Java on
the other side of the strait, and is, like them, subject to the Dutch Govern-
ment. The geologic formation is of the same character as that of the Sunda
country of Java, a mass of volcanic mountains, some of which rise to great

166 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA.

elevation, as those of Lampong and Tanjamus, 7,500 ft. The people are,
compared with the rest of the Sumatrans, rude and unpolished, though
having a written language. Their country is far from fertile, and much of
it incapable of being cultivated. The chief product for exportation is black
pepper, next to this are rattans and dammer or resiri. It was formerly the
dominions of the King of Bantam. It has been surveyed by order of Admiral
E. Lucas, by Lieutenants J. A. G. Eietveld and E. H. Boom, 1841. The
correct Dutch orthography can scarcely be followed, as many of the names
have for so many years been recognized as they will be given, that it has
been thought advisable to retain them.

The South coast of Sumatra, between Flat Point on the "West and Hog
Point on the East, a distance of 70 miles, is indented by two large bays,
named Keyser and Lampong, the shores of which are fronted by numerous
islands and rocks.

FLAT POINT ( riaklce Hoek), in lat. 5° 59' S., long. 104° 32' 37" E., is the
southern extremity of Sumatra, and the north-western boundary of Sunda
Strait. It is properly the western extreme of the low projecting tongue of
land which separates Keyser Bay from Blimbing Bay, and the East point of
which is usually, though improperly, called Chinna Point, its correct name
being Rada, another point 3 miles more to the westward being Chinna Point.
Mada Point bears East a little northerly, and is distant 9 miles from Flat
Point. A small reef fringes the shore about Flat Point, but at a mile off
shore are 7 to 10 fathoms.

At 2| or 3 miles S.W. of Flat Point there is a narrow bank, with 8, 13,
and 15 fathoms water on it, about 5 miles in length, W.N.W. and E.S.E.,
and about a mile in breadth., partly consisting of reddish sand. The
soundings outside this bank increase rapidly to 30, 40, and 50 fathoms,
and inside of it there is a channel, about 1^ mile wide, with 14 and 15
fathoms.

LITTLE FORTUNE ISLAND {Klein Fortuin Eiland), or Pulo Batu Ketchil,
lies in front of Blimbing Bay, just outside Sundd Strait, N.W. by W. 9
miles from Flat Point, and about 5 miles from the main ; it is low,
woody, about a mile in diameter, and surrounded by a reef also a mile in
extent.

BLIMBING or Billimbing Bay is inside Little Fortune Island, and north-
ward of Flat Point. At its entrance ships may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms,
and find a good berth with S.E. winds, but not with those from the N.W.
Small vessels will be sheltered from all winds by anchoring further inside
in 3 fathoms, behind the projecting reef.

There is also anchorage off the East side or Little Fortune Island, in 9 or
10 fathoms. In some charts two reefs are placed in this bay close in
shore ; it is very probable they do not exist, but it will be advisable to be
careful.

KEYSER BAY— KEYSER ISLAND. 167

On the East side of this bay is a small river, but its water is brackish ; a
fresh-water spring, however, may be found inside the S.W. point, from
which a reef projects a quarter or half a mile to the northward.

Approaching Sunda Strait by night, the soundings will be a good guide
in passing Little Fortune Island and Flat Point. At 6 miles off shore the
depths are 40 and 30 fathoms, and, with a commanding breeze, ships may
venture into 20 or even 15 fathoms; but when too dark to distinguish the
land, it is advisable not to shoal to less than 20 fathoms.

KEYSER or SAMANGKA BAY runs inland in a north-westerly direction
about 30 miles, and is about 20 miles wide at entrance. Its western shore is
steep, affords no shelter from south-easterly winds, and has 20 or 30 fathoms
water within half a mile of it.

Tampang Bay, just round Eada Point, on the western side of Keyser (pro-
perly Keizers) Bay, is only an open bight, but has good anchorage ground
in depths from 12 to 15 fathoms, a mile off shore. A ship will be exposed
here to south-easterly winds, and will have much difficulty, on account of
the rocky shore, in getting water from the shallow rivulets that discharge
themselves into the bay.

The village of Borne is in the N.W. part of Keyser Bay, at the mouth of
Samangka rivulet, the water of which is good, but boats will find it difficult
to enter. The land is low, and fronting the sea marshy. The best an-
chorage is East, or E. by N. from the mouth of the rivulet, 1 or 1^^ mile
distant from the shore. Ships lie here usually without danger from south-
easterly winds, which seldom throw a very high swell so far up the bay.
Near Belong Point, the southern extremity of the bay near Borne, there is a
rocky shoal which projects more than a mile in the offing, with 10 fathoms
very near it.

The eastern side of Keyser Bay, North of Kalang-bayang Harbour, is not
so steep as the western side, and affords good anchorage about 2 miles off,
in 20 or 30 fathoms ; but it is also exposed to south-easterly winds.

KEYSER ISLAND, or Pulo Lahuan, lying nearly in the middle of the
entrance of Keyser Bay, is high and steep-to all round, and affords but one
spot fit for anchorage, a very indifferent berth in the western monsoon,
which is on the N.E. side in 25 to 30 fathoms, sand, and very near the shore.
There is fresh water, but the high surf renders landing very troublesome.
The island is inhabited, well cultivated, and produces large trees fit for
masts.

Kalang-Bayang Harbour, or Koloemhyan Bay, on the eastern side of Key-
ser Bay, and about East from the North point of Keyser Island, is small, but
safe, and affords good shelter from all winds, with sufficient depths of water
for large ships. It may be easily recognised by the high and rocky island
of Eyoe, which lies about a mile outside, and can be seen 1 5 miles off. Half
a mile north-westward of Eyoe there is another island, or rather rock, called

168 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA.

Pulo Klappa, with a single cocoa-nut tree upon it. There is a safe channel
with 25 fathoms water between these islands.

This harbour has been said to be well adapted for a fleet in want of re-
freshments, as every supply may be obtained ; but the Java Guide says that
refreshments are very scarce. Water may be obtained from a small rivulet
in the north-eastern part of the bay.

In the N.W. monsoon, enter the harbour by the western passage between
Pulo Klappa and the North point called Tanjong Napal, and when the latter
bears about West, or W. by S., anchor near the eastern beach in 10 fathoms,
soft ground, or anywhere in the harbour, there being no hidden danger.

In the S.E. monsoon, steer in about N. by E., between Eyoe and Klappa
Islands. With a commanding breeze a vessel may pass eastward of Eyoe,
between it and Pulo Batu Kabu on a N.N.W. course. These channels lead
close to the Bover Hocks, which are, however, easily avoided, and left to the
eastward, as most of them are above water.

Kiloang Bay lies 5 miles to the south-eastward of Kalang-bayang, and
also affords safe anchorage. It may be known by Tongkalie Island, which is
visible 12 miles off, and lies off the East point of the bay, being separated
from the main by a small channel only fit for boats. This bay, as well as
Kalang-bayang Harbour, contains all sorts of wood.

Coming from the westward or southward with a leading wind, steer for
Tongkalie till it bears East, distant 2 or 3 cables' lengths, when three groups
of black rocks will be seen, the southernmost of which bears N.N.W. from
Tongkalie, and S.W. from the others. Steer N.E. and E.N.E. past these
rocks in from 30 to 20 fathoms, for the eastern side of the bay, which is very
high, till Kiloang Island bears West, where a good anchorage may be taken
in 13 fathoms between it and the beach, and sheltered from all winds. Ki-
loang Island, which is small and not very high, lies near the eastern beach
of this bay, with some rocks at its northern and southern extremities, a large
reef to the eastward, and a smaller one on its western side. Although the
bay is spacious, yet pass close to the westward of Tongkalie. Everywhere
€lse in the bay anchoring ground may be found in 16 to 18 fathoms, but
accompanied by a heavy swell.

MOUNTAINS. — The land of Sumatra, eastward of Kalang-bayang Har-
bour and Kiloang Bay, is very high, consisting of the Kalang-bayang or
Kamantara Mountains, 3,418 ft. high; and 3 miles farther to the northward
the Ratteh Mountains, the southernmost peak of which is 5,097 ft. above the
sea. More westerly, and not far from the shore of Keyser Bay, the Lani-
pong Mountains rise to the height of 6,560 ft., and Joukamoe, or Keyser Peak,
situated 11 or 12 miles farther to the north-westward, and near the head of
the bay, reaches to 7,412 ft.

Pepper Bay is on the North shore of Lagundy Strait, on the West side of
Tikus Point, the S.W. point of entrance of Lampong Bay. It has a huge

LAMPONG BAY. 169

three-cornered rock in the middle, and is very limited ; but the native proas
row up behind the high western beach, where there are 18 fathoms water
close in.

LAMPONG BAY, formed between Tikus Point on the West, and Pvajah
Bassa on the East, is very extensive, being about 20 miles wide at entrance,
and stretching northward into the land nearly the same distance. At its
entrance the Lagoendy Islands, hereafter described, extend 8 miles to the
eastward from Tikus Point. Other islands line the western shore of the bay
inside, between which and the main there are several good roads or places of
shielter. In every part of the bay, from North to South, will be found from
10 fathoms, mud, to 20 fathoms, clay bottom.

If a vessel keep outside the islands on the western shore of the bay there
are but tivo dangers, both of which may be easily avoided. The first is a
sandbank, dry at low water, surrounded by a reef, which rises from 17
fathoms, mud, and bears E.S.E. 1^ mile from Kalagian, and N.E. :^ N. 2
miles from Little Pokowang. The second is a reef with 2 and \^ fathoms
upon it, bearing S.E. ^ S. 1;^ mile from the easternmost of the Choondong
Islands.

Pedada Bay, the first bight to the northward of Tikoes Point, on the
western side of Lampong Bay, is 1^ mile wide at entrance, and 3|- miles
deep.

When running into this bay in the direction of the southern end of the
Kalang-bayang Mountains, on a W. ^ N. course, the soundings will be 20
to 15 lathoms, clay and mud, and ihe three small islands of Pedada, Pena-
rian, and Lilanga will be seen. Pedada is the easternmost and highest, but
N. by E. from it half a mile there are two detached reefs, usually covered
with breakers ; and a third reef N.E., which bears W. by S. from the North
point of the bay. Keeping this last reef on the starboard bow, and the other
two on the port bow, will lead to an anchorage in 15 fathoms water, very
near the village of Pedada, bearing W. ^ N. This village is to the westward
of Lalanga Island, and stands on a clear fresh- water stream. The high rocky
islet of Klappa is connected with Pedada Point by three groups of rocks
above water, leaving, however, between each of them a passage for small
craft. North-eastward of Klappa lie also three patches of rock, with 17 and
16 fathoms, clay, between them ; to avoid them, keep Lalanga Island to the
westward of North, This small island is also high, with a reef extending
about 2 cables from its N.E. point.

Poondo Bay, lying 4 or 5 miles to the northward of Pedada Bay, is 2
miles wide and 3 miles deep, with 10 to 7 fathoms water. Across the en-
trance lies Pokowang, the largest island iu Lampong Bay except Lagoendy,
with a peak on its northern side, and to the eastward a small island, to which
it is connected by a reef.

Poondo Bay may be approached on either side of Pokowang. When

J. A. 'i

170 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

taking the northern passage, which is preferable, the white coral reefs are
seen at some distance, but avoid the reef X)rojecting 3 cables' lengths N.E.
from the island, with 15 fathoms close to it. There is also a detached coral
reef close to the N.W. point of Pukowang, which must be kept on the p'jrt
side, while the four coral reefs, lying mid-channel N.AV. and W.N.W.,
from the centre of Pokowang, should be kept on the starboard side.

Kateh. Bay comes next to Poondo Bay. It is 3 miles in exteut each way,
with 16 to 18 fathoms, mud bottom, and at the entrance lies Kalagian.
Inland, which is high, and has a small island separated from its South point
by a boat channel of 3 to 8 fathoms water.

Not quite a mile S. by E. from Kalagian lies a coral reef, showing at low
water like a black speck, and bearing W. by N. J N. 1^ mile from the
above-mentioned coral reefs, between which is 17 and 14 fathoms, mud.

Eatteh Bay may be approached on either side of Kalagian ; and the two
reefs, which dry at low water, to the westward of the island, may be discerned
at some distance, and consequently easily avoided.

Mahitam Island lies off the North point of Eatteh Bay, with which it is
connected by a reef. There is good anchorage on its North side, in 13
fathoms, mud bottom.

Tagal Island, flat-topped and conspicuous, bears N.E. If mile from Ma-
hitam, and about W. by S., 3^ miles from the Choondong Islands, and is
visible throughout the whole of Lampong Bay. When coming in from the
eastward, a vessel may steer for it on a N.W. bearing, and pass it in 15
fathoms ; if entering from the southward it is a mark for Lagoendy Strait.

In the bay north-westward of Tagal there are the two villages, Ringong
and Oerong ; and near the South point of the bay is the small island Laho,
connected to the shore by a reef, and throwing out another to the nurthward.

Tankel Island is 3 miles North of Tagal. The North side is low, but the
South side high.

The Head of Lampong Bay, northward of Tankel, narrows, so as to be
scarcely 4 miles wide, but it contains four islands : — Pomogotang, 1^ mile
Noi'th from Tankel, is all sand, but has some trees, and is surrounded by a
large reef. Little Pomogotang is a bank without trees, 1 mile W.N.W. from
the former, and also begirt by a broad reef. Koeher Island, lying S.W. from
Pomogotang, is separated from the main by a 5-fathom channel, and a reef
runs out 2 cables' lengths from its eastern side. A black beacon buog marks
the eastern side of a reef; it lies N. 39° E. from Koeber Island, and South
from a white beacon buoy, with the harbour office at the mouth of the river,
N. 43° W., and the foot of Mount Apen N. 7° E. The fourth is the low
island of Passarang, in Telok Betong Road, S.E. from the river. Besides
these islands there are some coral reefs.

Telok Betong, situated in the north-western part of the bight, is the chief
town of Lampong Bay. Its population consists of natives of Sumatra and

BAJAH BASSA ROAD- KLArPA. 171

Bugis, with a Regent from the Dutch Grovernment as their chief. They
trade with the Javanese in Larapong tobacco, which is highly esteemed. A
telegraph cable connects Telok Betong with Anjer. The Dutch Government
have a coal store at or near here, but fresh provisions are reported as difficult
to be obtained. A red light, elevated 39 ft., is shown from an iron column.

The eastern side of Lampong Bay, between Telok Betong and the Choon-
dong Isles, is high, free from dangei', and may be approached in safety to
14 and 15 fathoms, close to. From the Choondong Islands to Rajah Bassa
the coast, at 2 or 3 cables' lengths distance, is fronted by a line of rocks.

The Choondong Islands are three in number, of which the northernmost is
a steep rock, and the two others are larger, but not so high. A detached
6-ft. reef is reported 1 J cable E. of the southernmost of the Choondong Isles.

To the northward of the Tiega Islets the Sumatra coast forms a deep
curve, called Blantong or Lohogh Bay^ with 4 or 5 fathoms, mud, and a salt-
water river. The points of the bay on each side are covered with rocks and
a high surf.

Tiga or Tiega Islets, three rocky islets lying 3 miles off shore, appear as one
when coming from the eastward, and do not begin to open until Rajah Bassa
Road is approached.

Eajah Bassa Road. — The land forming the south-eastern part of Lampong
Bay is high, and rises to two conspicuous peaks, 3 or 4 miles inland, named
Rajah Bassa Mountains. The height of the N.W. peak is 4,398 tt., and that
of the S.E. peak 4,093 ft. Rajah Bassa Road, which lies directly off the
high land, was frequently visited by the China ships, it being an excellent
place to obtain good water with facility, and other refreshments, although
Anjer is still better.

There are three villages on the shore of Rajah Bassa Road. The first is
Kalinda, bearing N.N.E. f E. from the Tega Islets, and having in front of
the white sandy beach some large rocks above water, between which are the
openings that make it easy to land. The anchorage is in 7 to 10 fathoms,
mud. West from the village, and a mile off shore. The second village is
Tyanti, which lies E.N.E. from the largest Tiga Islet, and abreast that part
of the road where is the best anchorage, and the best watering places. The
third village, called Rajah Bassa, is just to the northward of Cocoa-nut Point,
and about East from the Tega Islets ; it is the largest one of the three, but
the watering there is very difficult, at least much more so than at Tyanti,
and the landing dangerous with westerly winds.

KLAPPA, or Cocoa-nut Point, or Rajah Bassa Point, is low, covered with
cocoa-nut trees, and bears N.W. by W. nearly 8 miles from Hog Point, and
E. by S. \ S. from the Tiga Islets. Between Cocoa-nut and Hog Points the
coast curves in to the north- eastward 2 miles, and at the bottom of this bight
are the two small Bight Islands, surrounded by reefs.

About li mile north-webtward of Hog Point, and about 1^- mile off shore.

172 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA,

is the Tims Klip or Collier Hod; 6 or 7 ft. above water, and 56 ft. In circuit.
It is fringed by a reef, which on the N.E. side projects about 50 ft. Another
rock above water lies about a cable's length westward of Hog Point, with
deep water all around it.

The LAGXTNDY or LAGOENDY GROUP, lying in the S.W. part of the
entrance to Lampong Bay, consists of seven islands, viz., Lagoendy, Eound,
Saka, Soengal, Tims, Sussarat, and Mangoman. They are uninhabited, but
produce good timber, deer, and wild hogs. Along the southern shores of the
first four islands the sea in the western monsoon is very violent

Lagoendy, the largest island of the group, is nearly 5 miles in length,
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and close to the southward of its West point' are two
liigh, round-shaped rocks, covered with verdure, N.E. ^ E. and S.W. ^ "W.
from each other, with a boat channel between them. On the S.E. side of
Lagoendy there is another rook or islet of the same character.

On the North side of Lagoendy there is a small but safe bay, Navgga Har-
hour, with depths of 15 to 7 fathoms. In the middle of the entrance is the
small island Fafappati, behind which a ship may find good shelter from wind
and sea. There is room for ten or twelve ships, and fresh water is found on
Lagoendy, S.E. from Patappan.

Mangoman Island, lying a little outside Nangga Harbour, has 15 to 22
fathoms, clay, all round it, except on its eastern side, where there are only
10 to 15 fathoms. When coming from the eastward or northward, a mistake
may occur between this island and Patappan, but the latter is lower and
smaller than Mangoman.

LAGOENDY STEAIT, between Tikoes Point and the Lagoendy Islands,
is 2 miles wide, and may be recommended to ships working out of Lampong
Bay in the N.W. monsoon. About mid-channel is the high island of Sus-
sarat, with 10 fathoms, sand, close-to, and 30 fathoms farther off. Near its
W^est point there are some rocks, but they are high above water. Although
this island is in the middle of the channel, yet in a calm ships need not be
alarmed by the current whieh seems to set towards it. The passages on
either side of Sussarat are equally good.

A Coral Reef, carrying only 2 fathoms water, and having 13 fathoms
around it, lies northward of Mangoman Island, and from its N.E. side the
highest point of Sussarat bears S.W. by W. \ W. ; the West point of
Lagoendy S.W. \ S. ; the North point S.E. ^ E. ; and the middle of Man-
goman S. \ E. The reef is about 75 yards long, and cannot be distinguished
by discoloured water.

A rock awash, which breaks in moderate weather, has been discovered in
Lagoendy Strait, S. 24° E. from Tanjong Blantong (^?). — Naut. Mag.^ June,
1877, pp. 622-3.

Eound Island lies ofi" the East end of Lagoendy, its length being about
2^ miles, N.W. and S.E., and its breadth nearly a mile, Saka lies about

KEAKATOA ISLAND. 173

one-third of a mile off the S.W. point of Eound Island ; and Soengal about
the same distance off the S.E. point.

The passage between Lagoendy and Round Island cannot be recommended,
nor that between Eound Island and Soengal, for although the water is every-
where deep, the gr"und is foul and the current strong.

Tims Island, lying 3 miles eastward of Soengal, is very small and low,
consists chiefly of red day, and is surrounded by a broad reef with heavy
breakers ; bnt thp channels on either side of it are quite clear.

KRAKATOA ISLAND (or Krahatou), lying in the middle of Sunda Strait,
is about 5 miles in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 3 miles broad. Its fine
conical peak, rising boldly up to the height of 2,623 ft., may be seen at a
considerable distance, and serves as a fairway mark for ships entering the
strait from the westward. It is in lat. 6° 9J' S., long. 105° 27' 20" E. Arange
of high land runs from the peak in a northerly direction for \\ mile, when it
turns to the north-westward, and, gradually diminishing in height, disap-
pears at the N.W. point of the island ; the outline of the range is marked by
several prominences or peaks. The North coast of the island consists of
rocky hills, without any vegetation whatever. The West and South coasts
also consist of a steep and rocky shore, and it is only on the eastern coast
that there is any level land.

There is a small spring of fresh water on the N.E. side of Krakatoa, oppo-
site the South end of Lang Island, but it can only be approached by boats
at high water, and ships should not depend upon watering there. A short
distance to southward is a hot spring, in which the thermometer rose to 154°.

A bank of soft mud extends from the Eist side of Krakatoa and Lang
Island about 3 miles, with the peak bearing W.S."W. to S.W. by W.,
affording excellent shelter. from westerly gales, by anchoring in from 20 to
23 fathoms about Ij or 2^ miles off shore. The peak bearing S.W. by W.
is the best berth ; but a ship should not anchor with the North end of the
island to the southward of West, or she will be exposed to a heavy eea
rolling in from the westward between Krakatoa and Pulo Bezee, during a
westerly gale.

A submerged rock, hereafter described, is marked on the chart nearly East
from the peak of Krakatoa, and a quarter of a mile off shore.

On the 21st February, 1829, the Russian corvette Holler, commanded by
Captain Liitke, although only drawing 14 ft., touched on a coral patch,
said to lie \\ mile from the nearest point of Krakatoa, and S.E. from the
isle lying off its N.E. point ; but the description of its position, being rather
ambiguous, is not satisfactory.

Verlaten (or Fomaken Island), 2 miles long, and half a mile broad, lies
close off the N.W. end of Krakatoa, from which it is separated by a narrow
channel with numerous reefs, which make it dangerous for boats to pass
through. A white rock 60 ft, high, and another rock 80 ft. high, lie about

174 THE STEAIT OF SUNDA.

three-quarters of a mile oflF its S. W. end ; and about a mile East of that end
of the island, between it and Krakatoa, is a rock or islet, with a rock awash
a short distance to the southward of it.

Lang Island, about 1| mile long North and South, and about half a mile-
broad, is separated from the N.E. side of Krakatoa by a channel barely 2
cables wide at its narrowest part. A reef stretches out from its N.W. side
nearly half a mile, and encircles its North and East sides at an average dis-
tance of half a mile, terminating off its South point. The West side of the
island is bold and cliflPy, with deep water close to. The Polish Hat {Poohche
hoed) is a round islet, lying off the West side of Lang Island, between it
and Krakatoa ; a reef projects about half a cable's length from its N.E. side.

The Channel between Lang Island and Krakatoa is from one-half to one-
quarter of a mile wide. The shore of Krakatoa, forming: the West side of
the channel, is fringed with a reef extending about a cable's length from it,
except at the point nearest Lang Island, where it projects only about a
quarter of a cable. The soundings in the channel are deep, 30 and 28
fathoms, but they are very irregular, decreasing towards the Polish Hat
from the southward.

A shoallies a mile S.S.E. from the South point of Lang Island, and about
a quarter of a mile from the shore of Krakatoa. It extends about 1^ cable
in the direction of the chai nel, and has a rock which is sometimes awash,
and others just under water, upon it. The West extreme of Lang Island in
line with the Eist extreme of Krakatoa leads between this shoal and the reef
extending off to the S.E. point of Lang Island, although it passes very close
to both.

BEZEE, or Tamarind Island, bearing about N. by E., nearly 12 miles from
Krakatoa Peak, is nearly 3 miles in extent North and South, and 3;^ East
and West. This island has also a high peak, named Sehezee, sharper than
that of Krakatoa, and resembling a sugar-loaf, which rises abruptly to a
height of 2,825 ft. from the southern extremity of the island, and slopes
gently down to the northward. A reef projects about a third of a mile from
the West side of the island, some rocky points of which are visible above
■water ; and off the N.E. side there are three small islets called Huisman,
Little Tamarind, and Govts, all of which are surrounded by small reefs having
banks between them ; the islands and reefs extend a little over half a mile
from the shore. Bezee Island produces a certain tjuantity of pepper, and is
inhabited by natives belonging to the villages in Lampong Bay. The village
is on the East side, opposite Little Tamarind Island.

All around this island there is good anchorage in 15 to 25 fathoms water ;
and at a mile from tlie N.E. side there is an excellent roadstead, even in
S.W. gales, with 13 fathoms water.

Bezee Channel, between Krakatoa and Bezee, is 7 miles wide, and fre-
quently used by ships working out in the N.W. monsoon, in preference to

SEBUKO ISLAND. 175

the Great channel, because here they have regular soundings from 18 to 30
fathoms, and may anchor when convenient.

Boom Eock, lying nearly half a mile off the South point of Bezee Island,
is a few feet above water.

Hindostan Rock is the only known danger in this passage. A ship of
that name is said to have struck upon it in 1791, and found on its summit,
which was only 6 or 8 ft. in diameter, 15 ft. water, and 10 fathoms close-to.
Krakatoa Peak bore from it S. by W. i W. ; the "West extremity of Verlaten
Island S.W. ; the East extreme of Lang Island S. 5 W. ; Bezee Island from
N.E. to N. i W. ; the peak of Keyser Island W. by N. ; and the Zeeklip
W. i N., well open to the southward of Keyser Island.

Lieutenants Eietveld and Boom tried to discover this rock, but without
success, though they found a shoal with 5^ fathoms least water, consisting
of hard rock and coral, and having all around 6 to 13 fathoms, soft mud and
clay, and at some distance 19 fathoms. From this slioal Krakatoa bore
8. by W. J W. ; West extremity of Verlaten Island S.W. ; South point of
Zeeklip West ; and the angle between the two extremes of Bezee Island waa
68° 30'. Some of these bearings agree exactly with the former, and it is
more than probable that it is the same rock ; but, if not, the true Hindoston
ruck must be very near to this shoal, possibly a little to the north-eastward
or eastward of it. To avoid the Hiudostan rock or rocks, keep at least 2
miles from the South side of Bezee Island The best mark for proceeding
through this channel, is never to bring Gap Eock open to the southward of
Keyser Islaud, W. by N. Between Hindostan Eock and Boom Eock there
are 10, 16, and 20 fathoms water, rocky bottom; but between this latter
rock and Bezee there are 8, 9, 13, 11, and 8 fathoms, with foul bottom.
Lieut. Eietveld saw here different patches of light-coloured water, owing,
apparently, to an eddy current, and although they much resemble sunken
rocks, all the casts of the lead indicated IG to 19 fathoms.

Zee-Klip {Sea Eock), bearing W. by S. 6 miles from Sebezee Peak, con-
sists of three pyramidal rocks very near each other, and showing above
water ; the southernmost is the largest, and is often called the Gap Hock, on
account of a cleft in it. They are visible at a considerable di:?tance, bearing
N. 5 E. and S. J W. from each other, and are connected under water by
reefs, upon which the sea continually breaks. They are steep-tu and inac-
cessible; and near them are 26 and 30 fathums, mud and clay.

SEBUKO ISLAND (or Seboeko), N.N.E. a mile distant from Bezee, is not
so high as the latter, and consists mostly of craggy hills. It is inhabited by
natives of Enjah Bassa, who cultivate some pepper plantations. Its extent
is 3i miles North and South, and about 3 miles East and West.

Close to the East side of Sebuko is Beschutter Islet, which is high on the
East side, has a reef on its South side, and forms with Sebuko a small bay,
with 15 to 19 fathoms water, affording good anchorage for proas. A coral

176 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

rock, lying mid-channel between the East point of Sebuko and North point
of Beschutter, renders it dangerous to enter this little bay from tlie north-
ward with westerly gales; but there is a good road for large vessels in
11 and 13 fathoms, 1 or Ij mile from Sebuko, near the East side of Bes-
chutter.

Eeefs project from the numerous points of Sebuko, and in some places
they either show above water, or the sea breaks over them, but they do not
seem to extend far off, except from the West point, from which a reef
stretches off nearly 2 miles ; it is very steep-to, but not dangerous, because
the westernmost rock on it rises to a considerable height out of the water,
and has a slight resemblance to Zeeklip. This rock lies W.N.W. from the
South point of Sebuko; S.W. by W. i W. from its N.W. point; N. | E.
from the West point of Bezee, and If mile from the West side of Sebuko.

The Channel between Sebuko and Bezee Islands is not quite a mile wide,
with soundings from 19 to 23 fathoms, hard sandy bottom; the passage
northward of Sebuko, between it and the Tega Islets, is 1^ or 2 miles wide,
and has 20 to 34 fathoms. A sandbank lies West \h mile from Tiga Isles,
and N. by W. from the North end of Sebuko.

HOG POINT, or Varkenshoek, Tanjong Toka, bearing S.E. by E. 7* miles
from Cocua-nut Point, is the south-eastern extreme of Sutuatra, and between
narrowest part of Sunda Strait, across which tlie Telok Betono; telegraph cable
is carried to Anjer. The point has a round hilly appearance, and is easily
distinguished when approaching it from the eastward ; but, coming from
the westward, it has been mistaken for one of the Zutphen Islands. The
soundings a mile distant from it are from 40 to 60 fathoms.
it and Fourth Point on the Java coast, which bears S.E. ^ E. 13 miles, is the

The ZUTPHEN ISLANDS front the coast of Sumatra to the north-east-
ward of H(jg Point. Four of them are large, and the remainder are very
small, the whole extending N.E. and S.W. about 4 miles, and within 2^
miles of the main. There are several shoals in the passage between them
and the coast, amongst which there is said to be anchorage in some places.
This passage is generally used by proas, and might be taken by large ships
with a commanding breeze, there being sufficient depth of water, but great
caution is recommeudud. The islands are steep-to on their South side,
having 40 and 50 fathoms water very near them.

Kandang, the south-westernmost island of the Zutphen Group, is about a
mile long N.E. and S.W., and half a mile broad, of considerable height, and
covered with large trees. Off its N.W. side aie two coral rocks, visible above
water, and steep-to on their western sides. Near these rocks, on the N.W.
side of Kandang, there is a small bay that affords a safe anchorage to proas
in 11 or 12 fathoms water, close in-shore, and even large vessels would find
ealety there; very often it is frequented by pirates.

High and Kout Islands [high and woody islands), lying to the eastward of

ZUTPHEN ISLES. 177

Kandang, are of considerable height, rocky, and covered with trees. They
are about half the size of Kandang, the three islands being separated by
narrow channels. Between Kandang and High Island is a small islet, with
some cocoa-nut trees upon it.

A reef of rocks lies 2 cables' lengths from the N.E., East, and S.E. sides
of Hout Island, with 10 or 12 fathoms in the narrow gut between it and the
island. The soundings eastward and south-eastward of Kandang, and High
and Hout Islands are very deep, there being 40 to 50 fathoms a short dis-
tance off' them.

Cocoa-nut Island, lying westward of Kandang, is small, very low, and sur-
rounded by a reef, which is very steep-to. The Brothers, two small islands
lying to the northward of High and Hout Islands, are low and sandy,
covered with small wood, and surrounded by a narrow but steep reef, with
15 and 18 fathoms water close-to.

Hemoa Island, the northernmost and largest of the Zutphen Islands, is
also the highest, being elevated 300 or 400 ft. above the sea. To the N.W.
there is a low neck of land, which at 2 cables' lengths from the ground be-
gins to rise ; the South end is the highest. Part of the low neck is a sandy
beach, which atfords a good place for boats, it being very difficult to land
anywhere else. Eemoa is covered with trees, large and small, as also are
the other islands belonging to this group.

The South side of Eemoa is fronted by a reef, partly above water, with a
very narrow channel between it and the island ; it is called Boompjes Reef,
and carries some small brushwood ; from its South point the N.E. point of
Thwart-the-way bears S.E. ^ E.

Fatal Islet and Eeef.— Close to the N.E. point of Eemoa is a high rocky
islet, called Fatal, and from thence a reef projects to the North and N.W.,
on which is a separate cural rock, dry at low water, and all stretching otf
about half a mile, with depths of 11 and 12 fathoms close to them, so that
the lead gives but little warning. Erom the northern point of this reef the
North point of Fatal Island is on with the Button ; and from its western edge
the West point of Eemoa is on the West point of Kandang Island. Toempal
Island, lying westward of Eemoa, is small, very low and woody, and sur-
rounded by a reef, which is steep-to.

South of Toempal, and nearly in mid-channel, are two steep coral rocks,
with 2 or 3 ft. water upon them at oi'dinary tides, and sometimes dry. They
lie in the line of the Boompjes Ee f and the N.E. point of Thwart-the-way
in one, S.E. | E. A little further South lies a small but steep coral rock,
sometimes dry at low water, from which Boompjes Eeef is on with theNortli
point of the Button, E. by S.

On account of the rapid currents experienced at times near the Zutphen
lelands, in the westerly mousoou, ships oujjht not to approach their South

I. A. 2 A

178 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

and S.E. parts nearer than U or U mile, particularly in passing Hont
Island, where the current runs with great velocity, sweeping to the S.W. and
W.S.W. round Hog Point.

Lieut. Prins, in 1844, discovered an excellent anchorage for a dozen or
more large vessels between Hog Point and the Zutphen Islands. He says,
if in either of the monsoons a vessel cannot beat through, or is detained by
calms cT currents, she may bring Kandang Island to bear N.E., and Sindo
Island North, and to the westward of that line she may choose her berth in
from 30 to 5 fathoms, sand ; and from thence the land wind will enable her
on the following morning to pursue her voyage. Moreover, just to the
westward of Sindo there is a small river, with good water, near Pagatau
village.

Vessels are strongly advised not to try the intricate and dangerous passage
inside the Zutphen Islands, especially as there is no reliable chart of it yet
published.

The Channel between Thwart-the-way and the Zutphen Islands is but 3^
miles wide, and encumbered with two dangers, viz. : the Stroom Rocks off
Thwart-the-way, and the Winsor Eoek off the Button. Owing to the great
depth of water in it, 40 to 50 fathoms, it is not so convenient as the channel
between Thwart-the-way and Java, where the depths being only 20 to 30
fathoms, much greater facility is afforded for anchoring in calms. The
channel between Thwart-the-way and Sumatra is much frequented in the
westerly monsoon by ships bound to the westward.

STROOM ROCKS, lying N.N.W. i W., li mile distant from the West
point of Thwart-the-way, are a group of three or four rocks very near each,
other, with some of their tops visible above the sea at high water, and then
only discernible in fiue weather at a short distance ; at other times they may
be seen at a considerable distance by the breakers on the reef which connects
them under water. They are steep-to, having 40 and 50 fathoms very near
them.

The currents which meet about here from the North and East are very
strong, and with the opposite wind there is, near these rocks, such a boiling
and eddying of the water all around, that it almost appears as if they are
connected to Thwart-th.e-way, the light-coloured patches between them ap-
pearing like rocks under water.

Winsor Rock, on which the American ship Claudius, Capt. Winsor, struck
in May, 1837, was examined by Lieut. B. Gr. Escher, D.R.N. From it the
middle of the Button bears S.E. by E. | E., distant 1 J mile ; the S.E. point
of Thwart-the-way, S.S.W. ^ W. ; its N.W. point, S.W. | W. ; and the
South point of the southernmost Zutphen Island is just in one with the
northernmost visible point of Bezee Island. The least water on it is 16 ft.,
the depths increasing suddenly in every direction. Other rocks were seen
in the edd}' on the lee side of the rock.

THE CUAST OF SUxMATRA. 179

The COAST of SUMATRA from the Z itphen Islands runs N.N.E. J E.
for the distance of 3 miles to a point, not named on the charts, where it
trends away to the northward. This part of the coast is fronted by rocks.

Pulo Logok is a small but very high island, lying 1 mile North of the
above-mentioned point, and 4 miles N. by E. from the Zutphen Islands ; the
coast near it is rocky and steep. Lieut. Kolff found there 15 and 20 fathoms
hard sand ; but further to the southward towards the steep point near the
Zutphen Islands, a mud bank projects from the shore ; the lead is there a
sure guide, for the bottom in 9 and 10 fathoms is hard, while in 7 and 6 fa-
thoms it becomes soft.

The Sisters {De Gezusters) are three small islands, lying about N. by E. 3
to 4^ miles from Logok Island. S.E. nearly a mile from them is a small
reef with only 2 fathoms water, on which a ship was aground, with North
Island bearing N. \ E., and the middle of the Sisters W.N. W. Another in
the same predicament had the East point of North Island N. by E., and the
outermost Sister N. by W. \ W. to N.W, It is, therefore, advisable to give
the Sisters a berth of 2 miles, where irregular soundings of 16, 12, and 8
fathoms will be found.

North Island, in lat. 5° 40^' S., long. 105° 50' W., is small, bushy, and a
full mile distant from the coast of Sumatra. There is a small islet, called
Sina, at its southern extremity ; and extending to the S.E. of it is a shoal of
3 J fathoms water. The island therefore requires a berth of at least 1^ mile;
its North and S.W. sides are steep-to.

Lieut. Riddle, E.N.R., recommends North Island as a suitable stopping-
place during the westerly monsoon. He anchored his vessel in 13 fathoms,
with North Island bearing N. by E. 2 miles distant, and found a deep ship
channel between the island and the main ; but a spit, steep-to, extends 100
or 200 ft. from the N.W. end of the island. Between Sina Island and North
Island is a narrow and deep channel, bounded on either side by coral reefs.
The natives of North Island were friendly, and showed where the best
water could be obtained : this was easily shipped, while at the same time at
Anjer the surf was too violent to allow boats to come off with water.

Between North Island and the Sisters the coast bends in a little, and is
edged by a mud bank ; so that 2 miles from the shore will be found good
soft ground for anchoring, in 8 to 12 fathoms, with North Island bearing
N. by E. Small vessels will find good anchorage between the Sisters and
the main, in 2 or 3 fathoms water. Abreast of the Sisters there is a fresh
water spring, but Lieut. Kolff found its contents detrimental to the health of
his crew, although it was clear, and free from any unpleasant taste.

The Winds experienced in the Strait of Sunda have been briefly described
on page 14.

The Currents are also described on page 27.

DIRECTIONS. — The brief instructions for passing along either coast of the

180 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

strait, before given, will be sufficient for passing it with a fair wind. The
following is for the return voyage.

Working out of the Strait ix the North-west Monsoon. — The best
way is to pass between the Zutphen Islands and the Stroom Eock, and give
the Zutphen a berth of at least 1} or 1^ mile on their eastern side, and
beat up by short tacks along the coast of Sumatra between them and Hog
Point. Afterwards, passing either North or South of the Tega Islets, as the
strong currents and hard squalls may allow, try to get westing in Lampong
Bay, to the northward of Tims Island, and to pass between it and Soengal,
or through Lagoendy Strait. In this manner a ship will make a quick pas-
sage through the strait, if the wind be not too variable, besides having the
advantage of anchoring behind Sebuko Island, or in Lampong Bay, it the
currents or winds are too strong.

There are, however on record many instances of vessels having beaten out
of the strait along the coast of Java, during the western monsoon, with more
ease and celerity than could have been effected by stretching into Lampong
Bay, in consequence of the westerly current having at those times developed
its chief strength along the former side of the strait.

It has been generally supposed that the currents at both ends of Java are
regulated by the monsoons ; but, according to Captain M. H. Jansen, of the
Dutch Royal Navy, who has had great experience in the Indian Archipelago,
it appears that most part of the year a westerly current sets out of Sunda
Strait. It is much to be wished that this important element in Indian navi-
gation should no longer be left a matter of doubtful opinion.

Some remarks on this subject will be found on page 54.

CHAPTEE Y.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND BANKA STRAIT.

The EAST COAST of SUMATRA, between Sunda and Banka Straits, has
never been regularly surveyed. The coast is generally low, and covered with
wood to the water's edge, and does not therefore present much variation in
aspect. It is fronted by some very extensive shoal banks, which in some
places project 14 or 15 miles from the shore, but their exact boundaries are
uncertain.

The Winds of the Java Sea are described on pages 14 — 16 ante.

The Currents in the Java Sea are for the most part influenced by the pre-
vailing monsoon. They incline to the northward or southwai'd, according to
the influence of the currents of the straits of Sunda, Banka, and Gaspar ;
for during the western monsoon they run to the eastward, or more southerly
according to the set of these which come from the straits ; and in the eastern
monsoon they run to the westward or more northerly from a similar cause.
Through a succession of tides which were observed, chiefly during the
eastern monsoon, it was found that those which followed the direction of the
monsoon were stronger and of longer duration, so that a daily allowance
from 8 to 12 miles may be made in the eastern monsoon, and from 20 to 24
miles in the western monsoon.

The COAST trends from abreast North Island with a slight curve inland,
nearly North for 13 miles, to a point at which is the entrance of a small
river named Nihonng. Two other rivers, the Sakampang and the Niale, also
appear on the chart of this part of the coast. From the Nihoung Eiver, the
coast line runs nearly straight, N. by W. for another 13 miles, where it
forms a small bay, and from thence it assumes for a distance of 20 miles a
rather irregular outline, in a general direction about N. by E. | E. to Tan-
jong Supong.

Mount Imbong, in lat. S'' 20^' S., generally described as, and sometimes
named, Knoh Hill, is the most prominent hill on the coast near the Brothers,

182 EAST COAST OF SUMATRA.

but the latter name tends to mislead. It is of low elevation, of ver^- gradual
ascent, and clothed with trees. There is a hill to the N.W. of it, of hum-
mock form.

SHAHBUNDAR BANK and SHOALS.— Abreast of Mount Imbong and
of Tanjong Supoug, the bank fronting the Sumatra shore projects about a
mile only ; but between these points it stretches 10 miles in the direction of
the Two Brothers ; the channel between the bank and those islands being
about 6 or 7 miles wide. Upon the outer edge of the bank are several slioal
patches, upon one of which the Dutch ship Shahhundar narrowly escaped
destruction. As the depths decrease gradually towards this bank, the lead,
if attended to, will indicate its proximity.

From Tanjong Supong to a point l^ mile north-eastward of the river
named Eali Saputi, the bearing is North a little easterly, and the distance
13 miles, the coast between forming a bight 3| miles deep. From thence
the coast line runs N. J W. for 11 miles, and then a little more westerly for
11 miles further, to the large river Kali Tulang Bawang or Toelang. The
hank, fronting the coast between Tanjong Supong and the entrance of
the Kali Saputi, extends a little more than half a mile from the shore. The
Kali Saputi, the mouth of which is in 4° 44' S., may be approached as near
as 3 or 2 miles out.

Tulang Bank. — Northward of the Kali Saputi, the extensive hard sand-
bank of Tulang projects as far as 14 miles from the shore; but its South
side, bending in to the northward, forms a kind of bay.

Kali Tulang Bawang. — The mouth of this river, in 4° 21' S., may be closely
approached. Near its entrance there is a small village ; and three days*
journey up the river, according to the natives, is a town called Mmigala,
where the Eajah resides. Pirates sometimes hide tliemselves there.

The Coast from the Kali Tulang Bawang to Tree Island, 37 miles to the
North, curves inland 3 or 4 miles, and about the middle of it is the mouth
of the Eiver Masudyi. Tree Island is in about lat. 3° 41' S., and close to a
point of land, to which it is joined at low water. From thence the coast
curves round to a point N. by E., distant 17 miles; from which Lucipara
Point, at the entrance of Banka Strait, bears about N.E. by N., distant 15
miles, the coast between forming a bight 3 miles deep.

Between the Toelang and the Mesudji Rivers the bank extends from the
shore about 3 miles only, but a little northward of the latter it again projects
to the distance of 14 or 15 miles; from thence it edges away towards the
coast in a N. by W. direction to about 7 miles northward of Tree Island,
where it approaches the shore within 3 miles; it then runs N.E. for 16 or
17 miles, where its edge is 11 miles distant from the land; here it falls back
again towards the coast, and takes a northerly direction to Lucipara Point,
from which it projects but 2 miles. On this bank between the Mesudji

WEST AND NORTH ISLANDS. 183

Eivpr and Lucipara Point, are many dangerous, and occasionally dry
patches.

Some of the dangers supposed to exist between the Thousand Islands
and the Sumatra shore, known as the Dolphin, Antelope, Banterer, and
Paulowna, were searched for in vain by Com^mander C. Bullock in H.M.S.
Serpent (1865), and expunged from the chart. The position of the Lynn
Bank, as well as that of the Coventry Reef, both of which uncover at
low water, were accurately determined. The positions of several other
dangers in this route were also rectified, but as no complete survey has
been made, vessels navigating this locality are recommended to proceed with
caution.

Jason Rock, searched for in vain by Commander Buckle in 1865, was
found about 2 miles out from its original position in 1870 by the master of
the English ship Tewkeslury. It is described as 40 ft. in diameter, with 13 ft.
least water and 10 fathoms around it. The Netherlands Gruvernment steamer
Borneo afterwards examined it, giving the following bearings : — North
Watcher, N. 40° E. ; Pulo Doea, S. 89° E. ; and W. Island or Pulo Pablo-
kan, S. 62° E.

Helens Rock. — The barque Helens, Captain Inkster, on a voyage from
Bangkok to Melbourne, struck on a rock 6 miles E.N.E. of the position
assigned to Jasan Rock. The lead was immediately hove, and got 5-^- fathoms
in starboard gangway, and suddenly deepened to 10 and 15 fathoms. The
bearing of several islands were as follows : — North Watcher, N. bv E. | E. ;
West end of North Island, just open to the westward of Doea Island ; Ran-
gat, S.E. by S. ; Peblakan, S. ^ E.

WEST ISLAND, or Pulo Peblaken, in lat. 5°28J'S., long. 106° 23' E., is a
quarter of a mile in length, and low, but the trees on it may be seen 13 or
14 miles from a vessel's deck. It is steep-to on all sides at half a cable dis-
tant, except round its N.E. sandy point, off which a coral reef extends a
quarter of a mile.

COVENTRY REEF, of coral, dries at low water, and was seen always to
break in the calmest weather. The shoalest part is S.S.W. 1 mile from
West Island, and is about a cable in extent, but it appearpd to shelve off to
the S.W. for a quarter of a mile, which would agree with the account given
at the time of its discovery by the Caroline Coventry, in 1858. It is probably
the same as that stated to have been seen by the Anna Paidoivna. Pulo
Doea kept open West of West Island will clear it to the westward ; and
Pulo Gosong Rangat in line with any part of North Island will clear it to
the eastward.

NORTH ISLAND and PULO DOEA, the two north-westernmost of the
Thousand Islands, stand out very conspicuously from the group. They lie
respectively N.E. by E. \ E. 6 J miles, and N.E. i E. 6 miles from West
If-land. In the channel 1 mile wide between them, Mr. Roes, proprietor

184 THE STRAIT OF SUNDA.

of the Keeling Islands, reported a detached reef, which was seen breaking
from the mast-head of the Serpent. It lies nearer to North Island.

The NORTH WATCHER and LIGHTHOUSE.— The North Watcher js
a narrow island, half a mile in length, the N.E. part covered with high
trees, the S.W. part with low trees, visible in clear weather 18 or 20 miles
off. A coral reef, with only 6 ft. water in some places, stretches about
half a mile round the South end of the island, with a rock in one place above
■water.

The ligJithouse on the North Watcher is a white iron tower, in lat. 5° 13' 30"
North, lono-. 106° 26' 30" East. The light, first exhibited in June, 1869, is
a bright light, revolving once in every minute, elevated 159 ft., and visible
20 miles off.

The wreck of the War Eagle was reported in the last edition of this work
to lie S.W. by W. 5 miles from the S.W. point of the North Watcher, in
12 fathoms, mud bottom, her topmast heads showing above water. A blue
flag was placed on the main topgallant mast-head. She is alleged to have
struck on a reef 2 miles to the N.W. of the North Watcher, for which a
Netherlands vessel was sent to search.

OMEGA ROCK, on which the American ship Omega struck in 1835, lies
about E. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile from the North Watcher.
According to her captain, it is composed of coral, about 150 to 200 yards in
extent, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and about 60 or 70 yards broad, is steep-to, and
has not more than 9 to 12 ft. on the shoalest parts. It should be given a
wide berth by a vessel passing eastward of the North Watcher, from which
it is separated by a narrovC channel with 11 and 12 fathoms water.

EDELING SHOALS.— Between Pulo Doea and West Island lie some
patches of rocky ground, named the Edeling Shoals, to avoid which it is
recommended that vessels of heavy draught should not pass eastward of a
line joining the two islands, unless South of Pulo Gosong Eangat, the
small island surrounded by a sand beach, which lies 2f miles E.N.E. of
West Island.

These shoals consist of two coral patches East and West of each other, and
half a mile apart. On the eastern shoal there may be as little as 3 fathoms
at low water; on the western, 4J fathoms. They lie directly between Pulo
Doea and Eangat ; from the latter they bear N.E. f N., and N.N.E. i E. 1 J
and I5 mile respectively. There were found two other patches of 9 fathoms,
and so many indications of sandstone bottom, that vessels should appi'oach
this vicinity with caution.

E. ^ N. from the South point of Peblakan or West Island, distant about
3^ miles, is a reef of coral and stone ; this reef extends about 1 cable North
and South, and 2^ cables East and West. There is about 4 ft. water over
the shoalest part, and from 4 to 5 fathoms around the reef; from it the ex-
tremes of Kangat Island bore N.W. \ N. and N.W. by N. respectively.

THE TWO BROTHERS— LYNN BANK. 185

A reef also, on which the sea breaks heavily, extends a distance of about
2 cables (by estimation) from the North and N.E. sides of Rangat Island.

The TWO BROTHERS are low islands, which together extend 1 mile in
a N. I E. direction. The North Brother is small and round, with high trees ;
the South Brother is 4 cables long, and two of its trees are very high and
conspicuous, and may be seen in clear weather 20 to 23 miles off. Broad
coral reefs surround the South Brother ; round the North Island they are
narrower. There is a passage between the islands 2 cables wide, carrying 7
to 5 fathoms over an apparently regular bottom. To the East of the islands
is good anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms. The South point of the South Brother
is in lat. 5° 10' 25" S., long. 106° 6' E.*

SWALLOW ROCK.— In April, 1866, Mr. Wilds, Master Commanding
H.M. surveying vessel Swallow, succeeded in finding the rock marked ou
former charts at about 8 miles S.S.W. of the Brothers. Its position is in
lat. 5° 17' 40" S., long. 106° 3' 50" E., the South Brother bearing N. 17° E.
(true), distant 7f miles. There are only 22 ft. water on the rock, and vessels
of heavy draught should be careful to give it a wide berth, as there was
neither ripple, break, or swell over it to indicate its position. At half a mile
S. by W. i W. from the rock, soundings in 5 fathoms were obtained on a
small patch of sand and shells, with 9 fathoms between it and the rock. The
depths around the rock and patch were 9 to 10 fathoms, sand.

LYNN BANK is composed of coral, a cable's length in extent, N.N.E. and
S.S.W., and half a cable in breadth, carrying general depths over it of 3 to

* Doubtful Dangers. — The dangers said to lie in the track of vessels sailing direct
between Sunda Strait and the North Watcher were searched for by the Serpent during
several days. The hand and deep-sea leads were kept constantly going, and the sharp-
ness of the mast-head man's eyesight was stimulated by the ofler of a reward for their
discovery.

A short time was also devoted to the Antelope and other shoals, reported to lie South
and S.S.W of the Brothers, but nothing was seen of them. A 9-fathom bank of fine
speckled sand was found 2\ to Z\ miles S. \ E. of the South Brother. This bank, which
showed of a pale green colour, visible 2 miles, would prove at times a convenient an-
chorage ; the Brothers just touching lead over the shoalest part. There are not more than
10 fathoms between this and the Brothers.

The Dolphin Kock, on which the ship Dolphin was said to have been aground, was
searched for by the Serpent during part of two days. It was described as nearly even
with the water's edge, and to lie about 6 miles S.S.E. from the South end of the Two
Brothers, but it does not appear ever to have been seen by any other vessel. The distance
from the Brothers is precisely that of the Lynn Bank, and a change in the bearing from
S.S.E. to E.S.E. (such an error being not an uncommon one), would make it the Lynn. If
it were not for some indication of sandstone bottom, no credibility need be attached to the
statement which records its existence.

Pruisen Bank, sometimes placed in lat. 5' 17' S., long. 107° 9' E., does not exist, nor does
there appear to be any authority whatever to place it in that position.

1. A. 2 B

186 EAST COAST OF SUMATRA.

4 feet, with some rocks that dry at low water. There are 8 fathoms close to
the rock, deepening to 13 and 14 fathoms at a cable's distance. It is in
lat. 5° 12' S., long. 106° 12' E., and from it the North extreme of the North
Brother bears N. 68° W. 6§ miles, and the South extreme of the South
Brother, N. 77° W.

These extremes of the islands subtend an angle of 9 degrees ; if, therefore,
they be made, whilst passing on (or within a point or more of) the above
bearings, to subtend an angle of 8°, a vessel will pass about a mile outside
the bank ; and if an angle of 10°, half a mile inside it. In calm weather the
shoal, from its dark colour, is extremely difficult to see until close upon it ;
the above method as a safeguard will then be invaluable, and may be used
with confidence. A sharp lookout should always be kept, as the shoal may
only be detected by a slight ripple. At night it is recommended to close the
Brothers and pass them at 1 to 2 miles.

BROTJWERS REEFS are two dangerous coral shoals, separated about
half a mile from each other, with a dry patch of sand and coral upon each.
They are together a mile in extent, and a quarter of a mile in breadth, with
depths of 4f to 15 fathoms in the swatch between them. Hard ground
stretches out from their North and South ends ; at a short distance to the
eastward and westward the bottom is soft, and the depths 1^ mile eastward
are generally H|^ and 15 fathoms, regular soundings.

The Serpent anchored near the N.E. part of these reefs. No astronomical
observations were obtained, but the position of the North reef, by careful
magnetic bearings, was made to be in lat. 5° 4f' S., long. 106° 15' E., the
North Brother bearing S. 60° W., distant 10 miles, and the North Watcher
S. 58° E., 15 miles. This is rather nearer the Brothers than the commonly
received position.

A vessel passing eastward of the Brouwers and Lynn Eeefs should keep
nearer to the North Watcher than to the Two Brothers. The high moun-
tain seen to the southward is Mount Karang, South of Anjer, and in lat.
6° 15' S., but from the above reef and islands the round hill over St. Nicho-
las Point is more often visible, and is a good landmark. The latter is named
Mount Agoeng on some charts, but is called by the Dutch Gedeh, and its
height is 2,100 ft.

Clifton Shoal. — The ship Clifton, of Bristol, is reported to have grounded,
in November, 1850, on a shoal with 2 J fathoms on it, lying N. J W., 10^
miles from the Brothers. It is now marked on the Dutch charts with 1 8 ft.
and 24 to 27 ft. to seaward, about 9 miles to the eastward of Cape Scopong
or Supong, in lat. 4" 56' S., long. 106° 3' E.

Comara, a shoal danger of doubtful existence, with 7 fathoms close-to,
placed on the Dutch Government charts about 9 leagues to the N.W. of the
North Watcher, and 7 leagues from the coast of Sumatra, in lat. 4° 49' 30"
South, long. 106° 14' 30" East.

BANKA STRAIT. 187

Ocean Mail, marked on the Dutch Grovernment charts with 18 ft. and 7
and 8 fathoms all round, is situated 11 leagues to the eastward of the
Toelang River, in lat. 4° 18' S., long. 106° 26' E.

A patch of hard ground, about 2 miles in extent, having but 4^ fathoms
least water over it, appears on the chart in lat. 4° 11' S., long. 106° 8' E. The
soundings around it are irregular, 6 to 1 1 fathoms on the East side, and 6 to
9 on the West.

Arend Bank, in lat. 3° 45' S., long. 106° 16' E., is 2 miles in length, and
the same in breadth, consisting of fine gray sand and broken shells. It has
4^ to 6 fathoms water over it, and is surrounded by a depth of 6 fathoms,
which rapidly increases, over a soft bottom.

Boreas Bank lies E. by N. 11^ miles distant from the Arend Bank, in
lat. 3° 44' S., long. 106° 27^' E. It is also composed of a fine gray sand, and
the least water upon it is 5 fathoms. Around it the depth increases rapidly
to 10 and 13 fathoms, except on the N.W. side, where the soundings are
regular for some time with 5 and 6 fathoms. Between the Arend and Boreas
Banks there are irregular depths of 8 to 14 fathoms.

City of Carlisle Patch. — A ship of this name, in 1861, reported a patch
of 16 ft. to exist in lat. 3° 46' S., long. 106° 20' E., or S.W. by W. * W., 3^
miles from the Boreas Bank. Its North end is now marked on the charts
in lat. 3° 27' S., long. 106° 24^' E., whence the bank extends 2^ miles to the
S.E., with 5 and 4 J fathoms.

Caution. — Vessels in this neighbourhood unexpectedly shoaling their
water at night ought to be very careful, for many that considered themselves
to be upon these banks were in fact upon those off the coast of Sumatra, near
Tree Island, and consequently in great danger. These two banks consist of
fine gray sand, while those near Tree Island are of coarse sand with gravel.

The depths in that part of the sea which lies between the North Watcher,
Two Brothers, and Lucipara, are, except the banks of Comara, Ocean Mail,
Arend and Boreas, tolerably regular from 10 to 16 fathoms; but nearer to
Sumatra, about 22 or 24 miles from the coast, they become irregular, chang-
ing often, and suddenly, from 10 to 5 and 6 fathoms. Towards Lucipara, in
the usual track towards Banka Strait, the water shoals gradually to 6 and
4 A fathoms.

BANKA STRAIT.

General Description. — The Strait of Banka separates the islands of Banka
and Sumatra, and trends with many bondings to the north-westward.

In the ensuing account of it we have followed entirely that given in the
China Sea Pilot, as the features of this important passage have been carefully
and recently surveyed by our officers.

188 BANKA STEAIT.

The coast of Sumatra is very low, densely covered with wood, and offers
no other variation than a few points, or rather roundings, which are only
clearly distinct at short distances, and are easily mistaken for the so-called
false points, which are observed immediately after rounding the real points.
The shore being inundated at high flood, the distance from it is generally
over estimated.

The Island of Banka is covered with hills and mountains, varying from
930 to 2,320 ft. in height ; and it is remarkable that, notwithstanding their
comparatively small heiglit, their summits are generally covered with clouds,
whifh accounts for the erroneous heights given to these hills by various
authors, who have estimated them at upwards of 9,000 ft.

On the Banka Coast are prominent points, sandy beaches, and in some
places deep bights, as on the Sumatra side ; as a rule, wherever sand occurs
casuarina trees will be found ; the other trees are principally pine, teak, and
aspen. Near the western point of Banka stands the capital of the colony
(or residency) of that name, called Mintok, and its roadstead is much visited
by the coasters that supply the Chinese miners with rice.

The whole coast of Sumatra is bordered by a mud flat, which is narrower
off the points, but in some of the bights from 2 to 4 miles wide. Towards
the Banka side the bottom becomes gradually harder, and even rocky.
Besides the few small islets and rocks in this strait, there are the group of
Nangka Islands, where vessels sometimes proceed to procure fresh water
and wood. Many rivers discharge themselves into the strait, of which the
principal are the Soensang and the Assing, both navigable to a great distance
for vessels of heavy burden.

The entrance to Banka Strait is encumbered with numerous long and
narrow banks of sand, having various depths of water over them, and deep
channels between. Only two of these channels, however, are available for
the ordinary purposes of navigation, as it is not possible to give any direc-
tions which would enable vessels to use the others with safety ; but in the
event of a vessel from accident or other cause finding herself amongst the
banks, she would be enabled, by careful attention to the Admiralty Chart, to
extricate herself without much difficulty.*

Until the survey of this strait by Mr. "W. Stanton, assisted by Mr. J. W.
Eeed, Masters E.N., in H.M.S. Saracen, during the years 1859 and 1860,

* Caution — Buoys and Beacons. — The Captain of the French transport La Correze reports,
in 1873, several of the beacons and buoys in Banka Strait as out of position, while others
have disappeared. Captain F. G. Petersen, also, in a letter to the " Nautical Magazine " of
February, 1875, says — " In the Admiralty charts are mentioned a lot of beacons and buoys,
■which can never be seen in reality. I saw only one buoy in the whole strait on the
Fredrik Hendriks Rock. In the same charts are many conspicuous trees mentioned, which
are all or most of them gone. On the points of Sumatra should be some beacons and fishing
stakes, but anything of them was not to be seen.

TIDES AND CUEEENTS. 189

very little was known of the banks at its entrance. The Dutch had published
a chart compiled from the observations of the officers of the Dutch men-of-
war employed at various times on the station, which furnished a pretty cor-
rect outline of the coasts on both sides the strait, and showed the positions
of the prominent dangers in the fairway, but the soundings on it were very
imperfect, and the space eastward of Lucipara, occupied by the numerous
long narrow sandbanks above referred to, was almost a blank.

The ordinary route of vessels up to the time of the Sara<:en\ survey, was
through the Lucipara Channel, between the Island of Lucipara and the Coast
of Sumatra ; but the advantages which a navigable channel along the coast
of Banka Island would offer to vessels passing through Banka Strait had
been long felt by seamen, and Melvill Van Carnbee, in the Java Guide, re-
marks upon this want as follows : —

" The passage between Lucipara and Banka would have great advantages
in entering or leaving the Strait of Banka, were it not encumbered so much
with shoals and banks, the positions of which are not known correctly, and
which render this passage unsafe, at least for large vessels, although Com-
modore Watson took the Revenge by night to the eastward of Lucipara, into
the Strait of Banka, and had not less than b^ fathoms water. For vessels
of light burden and beating up against the western monsoon, this eastern
channel into the strait is very desirable, as it is almost impossible to make
any progress against the strong and continual currents in the Lucipara
passage."

During the Saracenh survey, an excellent passage, now named Stanton
Channel, nearly 5 miles wide in its narrowest pai't, and with depths varying
from 7 to 20 fathoms, was found between Lucipara and Banka. Mr. Stanton
gives the following reasons for preferring this channel to the old one between
Lucipara and Sumatra.

" The Stanton Channel will be found to possess many advantages over
that of Lucipara, for it is a mile wider, the approaches to it are marked by
well-defined hills on Bmka Island, and a vessel of the largest draught may
pass through it at any time of tide ; whereas vessels frequently get on shore
in using the latter channel, for the coast of Sumatra, consisting of low muddy
mangrove shores about 50 or 60 ft. in height, is unmarked by a single con-
spicuous object to assist the seaman to clear the mud flat bordering its entire
length, and which a few miles southward of Lucipara Point extends 1 1 miles
from the land. The island of Lucipara also is small, about half a mile in
length, and no marks can be given to avoid the rocks extending a consider-
able distance to the southward and eastward of it.

" The water also in the Stanton Channel being much deeper than in the
Lucipara, causes the banks, which are mostly of sand, to be easily recog-
nized by the light colour of the water on them. The tide also ebbs and flows
more regularly in this channel, and sets directly through it, which enables

190 BANK A STRAIT.

vessels even in calms to drop through ; whereas in light winds and calms they
are often set over amongst the dangerous banks whilst rounding First Point
in endeavouring to get through the Lucipara Channel.

•* The wind in the N.W. monsoon blows off the Banka coast, and through-
out the year land breezes generally occur during the night. A strong land
wind from the N.E. has been experienced in the Stanton Channel during the
S.E. monsoon, when the wind was blowing directly through the Lucipara
from the S.W.

" There is also but little variation in the depth of water between th©
Sumatra coast and the Lucipara shoals; and it is stated that during the
months of January, February, and March, when the N.W. monsoon is at its
full strength, the southern current continues from 14 to 18 hours successively,
with a velocity of 2 to 2 J knots, which would make it almost impossible for
an indifferent sailer to make any progress against it. It is also said that
during the latter part of the S.E. monsoon, it frequently blows hard from
the S.W., accompanied with much rain ; this would considerably retard
vessels going to the southward through the Lucipara Channel, and offer a
fair wind to those proceeding through the Stanton Channel.

TIDES and CURRENTS. — The tides in Banka Strait are strong, but irre-
gular, and are greatly influenced by the monsoons. The flood-tide, entering
the strait from the southward out of the sea of Java, meets another flood,
about the Nangka Islands, coming from the northward out of the China
Sea. The direction of the streams is entirely influenced by the windings
of the strait, forming, at their meeting, whirls and eddies in the bights of
the land.

In the Lucipara Channel and the southern parts of the strait, sometimes
there are two, but generally only one 6bb and flood in the 24 hours, the
former running to the southward and the latter running to the northward.
During the months of January, February, and March, at the greatest
strength of the N.W. monsoon, the southern current continues often from 14
to 18 hours successively, with a velocity of from 2 to 3 J knots ; the flood-tide
is then very trifling, and sometimes not at all perceptible. On the contrary,
during the S.E. monsoon, the stream of flood runs sometimes 14 to 18 hours
with great velocity into the strait, and the ebb runs out during the other 10
or 8 hours with but little strength.

In the northern parts of the strait during the N.W. monsoon the southern
current or flood remains longer and is stronger than the ebb, and the reverse
during the eastern monsoon. The velocity of the tide is sometimes 2 or 2^
knots, and the range from 7 to 12 ft., and sometimes more; and in the
mouth of the rivers the water during the western monsoon, from the heavy
rains which prevail at that period, is much higher than during the eastern
monsoon.

Between the monsoons flood and ebb succeed each other generally every

TIDES AND CUERENTS. 191

1 2 hours, and the one or the other is then stronger, according to the -wind
being northward or southward. The rise of an ordinary tide is 5 to 7 ft.,
and a spring tide 9 to 10 ft., and sometimes 12 ft.; but the average rise
seems to be much, greater during the eastern monsoon than during the
western one.

Mr. Stanton observes, that on the Sumatra shore, when the monsoon is
blowing strong, a constant surface current will be found setting to leeward,
and extending nearly mid-channel, except between Fourth and Batakarang
Points, where it is influenced by the numerous branches of the Palembang
Eiver.

On the coast of Banka, owing to the formation of the land, more regular
tides will be found ; therefore, ships in working should only keep on the
Sumatra side between Batakarang and Fourth Points, and when Tanjong
Tadah bears N.E. f N., work along the Banka coast, as by so doing, and
leaving either extremity of the strait at low water, they may carry a fair
tide all the way through, and generally have the advantage of a land wind
at night.

Throughout the strait, a difference of 12 hours in the tides was observed
in the opposite monsoon. It is high water, full and change, in the S.E.
monsoon about 8^ 30" p.m., but in the N.W. monsoon high water takes
place at nearly the same time in the morning.

Eddies in the Bights. — When beating through the middle of the strait
during the strength of the monsoons, continuous and contrary currents are
certain, and the skilful seaman will therefore find great advantage in avail-
ing himself of the eddies, as well as of the more regular changes of tide, by
standing into the bights and bays in those parts of the strait where he can
safely approach the land.

Inshore Tides. — In the Toboe AH Channel, also in the bay North of the
Nangka Islands, and in the passage between Brom-Brom Eeef and Banka,
we meet, even in the western monsoon, a pretty regular succession in the
roadstead tides. It has been often observed, when passing the road of
Mintok, that the vessels were lying with their heads in a contrary direction
to those at anchor upon the bank outside. In that road the flood comes
from the westward, and the ebb from the eastward ; but near the mouth of
the Assing Eiver the contrary occurs ; the flood there runs West, and the
ebb East. In the bays between Eerste and Tweede Points, and again be-
tween Derde and Vierde Points, there are probably eddies of which vessels
of light burden may make use, and heavier vessels may no doubt, in many
places, run close enough to the shore to keep out of the influence of the
currents.

Freshes. — Between Bata-karang and Fourth Points the ordinary current
in Banka Strait, after heavy rains, is considerably accelerated and diverted
in the direction of Kalian Point, until it nearly reaches mid-channel, by

192 BANK A STRAIT.

the freshes from the many rivers in this vicinity. Vessels sometimes take
advantage of this to complete water, as it is frequently quite fresh on the

surface.

During the westerly monsoon, which is the rainy season, these freshes set
out of the rivers on the Sumatra coast with great force, and they require to
be carefully guarded against in the night. Upon one occasion, when H.M.S.
Saracen was at anchor near Lalarie Point, her decked pinnace, moored at
the boom, was fairly pressed under the water and swamped by the force of
the current.

LUCIPARA ISLAND, half a mile long, W.N.W. and E.S.E., and a
quarter of a mile broad, lies at the southern entrance of Banka Strait, 9
miles East of Lucipara Point, in lat. 3° 13' S., long. 106° 13' E., and is
visible in clear weather at 14 or 15 miles. It is surrounded by a reef, which
from its S.E. end extends rather more than 1^ mile ; and around this reef is
a bank, with 2^ and 3 fathoms over it, extending about 1^ mile to the north-
westward from the island, and 2 miles to the south-eastward of it.

Formerly, the trees on the S.E. end of the island rose to a sort of peak 164
feet high, but all the trees on this peak have been cut down (1875).

Rocky Patches. — Lucipara should not be approached on its S.E. side
nearer than 3i miles, for a rocky patch with 2^ fathoms water over it lies
S.E. by E. i E., distant nearly 2 J miles from the island; and a mile to the
westward of this patch is another of 2f fathoms.

LUCIPARA POINT, which forms the south-western limit of Banka Strait,
is in lat. 3° 13^' S., long. 106° 3' E. It is covered with trees, the tops of the
highest being 89 ft. above the level of the sea.

The COAST between Lucipara and First Points is formed of mangrove
jungle, and was found in the survey of 1859 to extend considerably more
eastward than shown in the Dutch chart. This extension has evidently
taken place since their survey in 1818, and it may be attributed to the sedi-
ment from the numerous small rivers in that vicinity affording more soil for
the growth of the prolific mangrove. The contour of the dry mud was ob-
tained and sounded close-to at the springs, and it will be a guide to show any
further extension.

Green Point, so called from the trees on it being of a lighter and brighter
green than elsewhere, bears N. ^ W., distant 9 miles from Lucipara Point,
the coast between forming a bight about 1|^ mile deep. Between these points
is a ridge of high trees standing about 1^ mile back from the coast line, with
a conspicuous tree, 153 ft. high, near their centre.

EERSTE, or Pirst Point, bears N. J W., distant 4^ miles from Green

VALSCHE EERST— TWEEDE POINT. 193

Point, the coast between fornaing a bight. The trees on it are of equal
height, 60 ft., and present a level appearance.

Mud Bank. — From the southward the coast line approaches Lucipara
Point in a north-easterly direction ; but the 3-fathoms line, which may be
considered the edge of the mud-bank which fronts the whole coast of Suma-
tra, from a distance of 10 or 12 miles southward of the point, approaches it
nearly straight in a N. by W. direction, and passing Lucipara Point about 2
miles off, follows, with a slight curve in towards the coast, the same general
direction until abreast of Green Point, from which, it extends a little over a
mile ; it then takes a direction a little more westerly until abreast of the
South part of First Point, from which it is distant three-quarters of a mile.
In rounding First Point, the bank approaches nearer to it, and on its N.E.
side projects only about a quarter of a mile from the shore.

From 10 or 11 miles to the southward of Lucipara Point, to within 2 miles
of Grreen Point, the soundings decrease regularly towards the bank ; but
just to the southward of, and fronting Green Point, the water shoals sud-
denly from 6 to 3 fathoms ; and, therefore, this part of the flat should never
be approached into less water than 7 fathoms. Near First Point the bank
is also steep-to, especially on the N.E. side, and should not be approached
under 12 or 10 fathoms, those depths extending to the distance of 1 to 1^
mile off the point.

The COAST from First Point takes a N.W. by W. f W. direction for 6f
miles to False First Point, having a small bight or indentation between, at
about two-thirds of that distance from First Point. From False First Point
it falls back S.W. by W., about 3 miles, and then forming a deep bay,
gradually curves round to a slight point (False Tweede Point of the Dutch),
from whence it runs pretty straight about N. J W. for 7 miles to Tweede or
Second Point.

VALSCHE EERST, or False First Point.— The trees upon this point are
more elevated than those on First Point, being 105 ft. high. Lalarie Point,
on the Banka side, bears from it N. ^ W. nearly 7^ miles, and Second Point
N.W. i N. 18^ miles.

The mud-bank projects two-thirds of a mile from False First Point, and
more than 3 miles from the shore in the depth of the bay between that point
and Second Point. The bank is very steep close-to, and should not be ap-
proached under a depth of 12 fathoms near the points, nor under 10 fdthoms
in the bight between them.

TWEEDE, or Second Point, the trees on which are 81 ft. high, bears
from First Point N.W. i N. 21^ miles, and from Lalarie Point N.W. | W.
13 miles. From this point the coast falls back, and curves round until
within 5 miles of Third Point, forming a bay about 5 miles deep ; it then
runs nearly straight to Third Point.

I. ▲. So

194 BANKA STEAIT.

The mud-bank extends about two-thirds of a mile from Second Point, and
being very steep-to should not be neared under a depth of 12 fathoms.
Between Second and Third Points it runs very nearly straight from point to
point, filling up the bay. The soundings here do not, as a general rule,
shoal so suddenly as they have been described to do between the other
points, but at 2 or 3 miles South of Third Point the bank curves out consi-
derably, and is dangerous to strangers, particularly when coming from the
northward, as they are likely to infer that the bank falls back in the direction
of the land. The depths, too, here again begin to shoal suddenly, adding to
the danger, so that it is necessary to exercise caution and give a good berth
to this part of the bank.

A Spit or Horn extends 1^ mile from the above mud flat, and then in a
south-easterly direction for 2 miles, with depths from 2J to 3 fathoms, mud,
on it, and from 4 to 5 fathoms between it and the flat ; from its northern
extreme Second Point bears S.S.E. 8 miles, and Parmassang Peak E. by S.
12^ miles ; therefore in passing this spit. Second Point should not be brought
eastward of S. by E. f E. until Parmassang Peak bears E.S.E.

Doubtful Patch. — There is said to be as little as 4 fathoms over muddy
bottom, with Little Nangka Island bearing North, and the middle of Par-
massang Hill East.

DERDE, or Third Point, bearing N.N.W. f W. 20J miles from Second
Point, is 78 ft. high, and has on its North side a square beacon, with a white
top and ball. From this point the coast runs back about W.S.W. for 2
miles to the entrance of a small river, named Songi Kisoegean, which, from
native information, is said to connect with a branch of the Palembang River ;
from thence it curves round in a West and W.N.W. direction for 4 or 5
miles, and then assumes a tolerably straight outline until within 3 or 4 miles
of Fourth Point, which it approaches in a N.W. by W. ^ W. direction.

The mud-bank does not extend more than half a mile off Third Point,
but is very steep-to, and should not be approached under three-quarters
of a mile, or in less than 15 to 13 fathoms water. Between Third and
Fourth Points the bank runs pretty nearly straight, the edge of it being
distant from 1 to H J^il© ivovtx the shore, except in front of the bight just to
the westward of Third Point, where it is 2 miles distant from the shore.

The soundings between Third and Fourth Points are irregular, but vessels
may, with careful attention to the lead, stand towards the mud-bank into 7
or 6 fathoms, until nearly abreast of Fourth Point, where the bank gets
steeper, having 10 fathoms close-to, and only 8 fathoms a little further off.

Four-and-Three-quarters Fathoms Bank. — A mud-bank, about 2 miles in
length, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and having 4| fathoms water
over it, lies between Third and Fourth Points, about two-thirds of the dis-
tance from the former, and nearly 3 miles from the shore ; between this bank

VIERDE, OR FOURTH POINT. 195

and the edge of the mud flat extending from the shore, is a channel about
three-quarters of a mile broad, with 7 to 9 fathoms water in it.

VIERDE, or Fourth Point, bears from Third Point W. J N. distant 23i
miles. The trees upon it are 112 ft. high; and a square beacon, with white
top and ball, stands, or used to stand, at the edge of the mangrove.

The coast from Fourth Point stretches westward for 22 or 23 miles, and
in this space the different branches of the Palembang River fall into the
strait.

Banks off Fourth Point. — A bank of sand and shells, having 4f to 6 fa-
thoms water over it, lies 4 miles off Fourth Point. It is 3 miles long
W.N.W. and E.S.E., about 1:^ mile broad, and from its western extreme the
beacon on Fourth Point bears S. by W. I W. 3 miles, and from its eastern
extreme the beacon bears S.W. by W. | W. 4 miles. Between it and the
mud-bank extending from the shore are from 7 to 9 fathoms.

Another patch, about a mile in extent, and having 6 fathoms water over
it, lies nearly 2 miles north-eastward of the last-mentioned bank, with the
beacon on Fourth Point bearing S.W. J S. 6J miles, and the dry rocks on
the Brom-Brom Reef N.E. by N. 3 miles.

Between these banks the depths are from 8 to 14 fathoms.

The Mud Bank from Fourth Point takes a W.N.W. direction for 18 miles,
where it trends away near South, forming one side of the entrance to the
Soengsang River ; a spit projecting from the land forms the other side of the
entrance to that river, as also the S.E. side of the entrance to the River
Assing.

Caution. — This bank, for 6 miles westward of Fourth Point, is composed
of hard sand, covered with a thin stratum of soft mud, and is exceedingly
dangerous, being steep-to, and many ships, including H.M.Ss. Himalaya and
Assistance, have grounded upon it. The lead cannot at all be relied upon
for giving warning in time to avoid it, for 1 1 fathoms may be had, and the
ship be aground the next instant. The safest plan is not to pass the beacon
on Fourth Point within 3 miles, and having passed it not to bring it to the
eastward of S.E. ^ S. until Monopin Hill bears North.

From 10 to 12 fathoms will be obtained very close to this steep bank, out-
side of which is a long strip of 8 and 9 fathoms ; outside of this strip are 10
to 13 fathoms, so that it is not at all possible for a vessel to discover her
position by the lead only. The soundings, however, become more regular
off the mouths of the Palembang Rivers, and towards and abreast Bataka-
rang Point the lead will in those localities, if properly attended to, enable a
vessel to proceed with ease and safety, as the soundings decrease regularly
towards the shore.

Great care, however, is requisite in navigating this part of the strait
during the rainy season, for large drifts are then brought down these rivers
by the freshes, which set strong over to the West end of Banka ; and as the

196 BANKA STRAIT.

flood runs strong into them on the springs, a vessel may be driven too near
either shore, both sides of which are fronted by dangers.

SUMATRA EIVERS. — To the westward of Fourth Point are the entrances
of the Elvers Saleh and Oepan, then the Soensang, and lastly the Assing ;
the last two are navigable for vessels of light draught as far as Palembang.

SOENGSANG or PALEMBANG RIVER.— Mr. Stanton has furnished the
following account of this river and town: — Since the survey of the N.W.
part of Banka Strait in 1860, a deeper and more direct entrance to the main
channel of this river has been formed, carrying 9 ft. at low, or 22 ft. at high
water springs.

This new entrance is marked with beacon poles, similar to those in the old
passage, but as, on account of the many floating trees and strong freshes,
they will probably not remain long in their position, a vessel of large
draught may safely enter at high water by bringing the trees forming the
West point of the river entrance S. by W. f W., and running for them on
that bearing until Pulo Payong (Umbrella Island) bears South ; then steer
for the island, but take care in approaching it to keep close to the eastern
bank of the river, to avoid the spit extending 2 miles off its North end.
If a pilot is required, one may be obtained at Kampong Soengsang, the
small village on the left bank, but there is no channel available for ships ou
the West side of Payong.

This branch of the Soengsang at its entrance is upwards of a mile wide,
but within, the navigable channel is contracted in some places to the width
of a cable's length by the different islands and banks, until close up to the
town of Palembang, when the river widens to three-quarters of a mile with
6 and 6 fathoms close to the shore.

Vessels can navigate the whole length of the river up to the town by keep-
ing close to the right bank ; but those of large draught are recommended,
when passing Pulo Singris and the bank off Kampong Maya, to keep near
the opposite shore. Both sides of the river are wooded, and on nearly all
the isolated banks there are small trees, and on others fishing slakes, conse-
quently there will not be much difficulty in avoiding them.

PALEMBANG, one of the largest Malay towns in the Archipelago, and
the largest in Sumatra, derives its name from the many bridges across the
numerous creeks that intersect it. A Dutch resident and other officials
reside here, and to support their authority there is a military force, con-
sisting of one European and two native companies. The total number of
Europeans in the town is 109, and by the last census the native population.
consisted of 45,000 Malays, 4,000 Chinese, and 1,000 Arabs. The climate in
the vicinity is considered so salubrious that convalescent soldiers are sent
here from Banka.

Near the extreme end of the town, commanding the mouth of the Ogan
Eiver, is a substantially built fort. It is a square enclosure of masonry,

ASSING OE SALT EIVER. 197

with walls 8 ft, thick, about 50 ft. high, loop-holed, and at each angle a
circular bastion mounting eight guns in casemate embrasures. The fort
could easily accommodate 1,500 men, and is surrounded outside with strong
wooden palisades, a thick bamboo hedge, and a ditch 20 ft. broad. The
fort is in lat. 2° 59i' S. There are several smaller forts some distance up
the river.

Covered prahus (called bedahs) daily arrive from the interior, laden with
large supplies of cotton for exportation. This useful article grows quite
wild some distance up the river, in some places close to the stream, and
covering many miles of land. The greater portion of it is sent to Batavia.
The total quantity exported this season is estimated at 1,735,500 lbs.

All the necessaries of life are here found in abundance. The country
abounds in large game, deer, wild pigs, &c. The river swarms with fish.
Beef, fruit, vegetables, &c., are cheap and plentiful. Foreign vessels are not
permitted to trade, and Dutch European vessels are not allowed to enter the
river unless under special circumstances. The export trade, consisting
principally of pepper, rattans, cotton, honey, dye-woods, and gutta-percha,
is confined to thirteen European built ships, and numerous country craft, all
owned by wealthy natives.

Erom November to March rains prevail, and the wind varies from N.W.
to N.E. At this period vessels belonging to Palembang either remain ia
port or trade to other places, as it is almost impossible for sailing vessels
at this period to make any progress up the river against the freshes.
During a stay of five days off the town in January, the influence of the
flood was not once felt. The ebb slackened during the day, but at night it
often ran 5 knots. After much rain the freshes out of the river are felt in
Mintok Bay.

ASSING or SALT EIVER offers the best passage to Palembang, being
at ail times navigable for vessels of the heaviest burden, but the shallow at
its entrance often causes a delay of several days. At its mouth, which was
surveyed in the beginning of 1846, Monopin Hill bears N.E. by E., and
Assing Point N.W. by N. At the entrance, in mid-channel, there are 8 to
10 fathoms ; and close to the poles at the back on the eastern side of the
channel from 4 to 5 fathoms. Higher up this river the Pontain and Jarang
Channels are just as good as that through the Soensang.

Directions. — To enter the Assing, bring Monopin N.E. by E., and Teloo
Point N.W. by N., then steer in a S.W. direction, according to the state of
the tide, for the ebb runs strongly over the very shallow outer bank towards
Soensang, and the flood towards the inner banks.

Having reached as far as Api Point, take the mid-chaanel, between the
beacon-poles, towards Bayan Point, and then, though still following the
middle of the river, keep rather towards the Laga Point side, round which
the Pontian Channel is entered. With a flood tide keep on the eastern

198 BANKA STEAIT.

shore, as the stream runs with force past that channel ; taking care, at
the same time, to avoid the shoals which surround the point. In this river
we have only to mind the points, as from most of them project small mud
banks.

Pontian and other Affluents. — The juntion of the rivers Pontian, Kietjar,
Gassing, and Sebalick, which last unites the Pontian to the Jarang, causes
a part of the ebb to run from the first two rivers through the Sebalick, and
compels vessels having come so far with the flood to anchor, and to wait for
the ebb. The Pontian is generally deepest on its western side, except near
its mouth, where the greatest depth is in the middle ; but again towards the
western side, higher up, and in front of the shoal off the point, between the
Kietjar and the Sebalick. When near its junction with the Sleino and
Jarang Rivers, keep close to the eastern shore, in 6 to 8 fathoms, to avoid the
reef which projects from the point between the Sebalick and Jarang. When
there is no wind, it is necessary to anchor and wait for the flood coming up
by the Sleino, in order to proceed up the Jarang, and it will be found that a
great part of the flood goes into the Tambangadin Eiver, while that going
up the Jarang is very trifling. Having reached the Jarang Ketjil, anchor
again till high water, to wait for the ebb from this river, which will soon
take the vessel into the Soengsang.

Jaraxg Bank. — The bank off the Jarang is very shallow, but on the North
side there is a narrow passage with 5 or 6 fathoms. Vessels of less draught
than 15 ft. can also find a passage on the South side.

The AssiNG, always navigable. — The difficulties in going up the Assing,
caused by the narrowness of the rivers Pontian, Sebalick, and Jarang, and
the necessity of stopping so often to wait for the tide, are amply compensated
by the advantage that vessels of even the greatest burthen suffer no delay at
its mouth.

Freshes. — Vessels navigating these rivers, especially during the western
monsoon, should be aware that the heavy rains in the interior cause such
strong freshes to run out of the river as to reach towards the opposite shore,
and that in the spring, especially during the eastern monsoon, very powerful
floods pour into the rivers. High up the rivers are seen ripplings like
breakers, caused by these tides and freshes, which frequently bring down
large detached masses of grass and brushwood like floating islands.

BATAKARANG POINT, the N.W. boundary of Banka Strait, is in lat.
2° r S., long. 104° 50' E., and bears N.W. f W. 32 miles from Fourth Point.
It may be known by a group of trees, 130 ft. high, which gives it a bluff and
jagged appearance.

Valsche or False Point is more sloping and flat, and lies 9 miles to the
south-eastward of Batakarang Point ; and there is another point about 3
miles in the same direction from Batakarang Point.

The mud-bank projects 4^ miles off Batakarang Point, and 2 miles off

COAST OF BANKA— TANJONG BAGINDA. 199

False Point. It then trends away to the south-westward, bounding the
entrance of the Assing Eiver on its N.W. side, to Tanjong Kampie, from
which it projects not quite a mile.

The soundings off Batakarang Point are regular, and the point may be
passed in from 6 to 4| fathoms water.

COAST OF BANKA.— This coast, which separates the straits of Banka
and Gaspar, is treated of here, as being intimately connected with the
former, for Mr. Stanton observes, that at the entrance of Banka Strait, in
the S.E. monsoon, the ebb tide during the night at springs will be found
setting to the south-eastward ; consequently many vessels, although steering
a course for the strait, get set between Pulo Dapur and Baginda Point.

The SOUTH COAST, between Baginda Point and the Dapur Islands, in
extent about 14 miles E. f N. and "W. | S., is generally low, and covered
■with trees ; it presents, however, some points sloping down from hills of
moderate elevation. It should not be approached under 3 miles, for it is
fronted with a mud-bank, extending in places nearly 2 miles from the shore,
upon which are many rocks above, and many others below water.

TANJONG BAGINDA, the south-eastern extreme of Banka, is in lat.
3° 4' 40" S., long. 106° 44' E. It slopes gradually in a south-easterly direc-
tion from a hill 387 ft. high, which rises a mile inside the point. Two miles
inside the point, in a NW. by W. J W. direction, is another hill, named
Baginda Peak, 521 ft. high.

Tanjong Dua {Doeija) bears W. by S. J S. 2J miles from Baginda Point,
from which it is separated by a bay about half a mile deep. N.N.W. 1^
mile from the point is a hill, 432 ft. high, from which the land slopes down to
the coast.

Eocks, some of which are above water, extend to the southward of this
point and for more than a mile along the coast to the westward, to the dis-
tance of half a mile. A sand-bank, with rocky patches, commences about
1^ mile S.S.E. i E. from it, and extends to the westward until it meets
the mud -bank which fronts the coast as far as Tanjong Tan ah Eoboe.

Tanjong Kejang is 231 ft. high, and bears West-southerly 2f miles from
Tanjong Dua, from which it is separated by a sandy bay about two-thirds of
a mile deep.

Karang Layar is a rocky reef above water, lying on the outer edge of the
bank above mentioned, and S.W. by W. distant If mile from the East ex-
treme of Tanjong Kejang, Inside these rocks to the north-westward is
another bed of rocks, some of which are above water.

Tanjong Bantil, 240 ft. high, bears W. by N. 2J miles from the nearest
part of Tanjong Kejang. The bay between these points seems to be full of
rocks ; and large and small rocks above water, with others awash, extend
to the southward of the point, nearly to the edge of the mud-bank, which
projects neai'ly a mile off shore.

200 BANKA STEAIT.

Tanjong Tanah Roboe is 3-J- miles W. by S. ^ S. from Tanjotig Bantil, and
off it, as at Tanjong Bantil, a number of rocks, some above and others
below water, project nearly a mile to the southward to the edge of the
bank ; the bank curves round this point, and terminates just to the westward
of it.

Dapur Point. — The coast from Tanjong Tanah Eoboe runs West about
a mile, and then, curving to the north-westward into a small bay about half
a mile deep, runs about S.W. by W. with a rugged outline to Dapur Point,
under Toboe Ali Lama Peak, which forms the south-western extreme of
Banka. Adjoining Dapur Point is an islet or rock 40 ft. high, with smaller
rocks above water on both sides of it.

Dapur Islands * are two islets lying a little more than a mile S. by E.
from Dapur Point, and forming a good landmark when approaching from
the southward. They form the south-eastern limit of the entrance to Banka
Strait by the Stanton Channel, are nearly round, and about a cable's length.
in diameter, and connected at low water by rocks. The southern one is 120
feet high, resembles a shoe in appearance, and is fronted by a coral sandy
beach. Some rocks above water lie about a cable's length to the southward,
and a rock under water about 2 cables to the south-eastward of the islet.

There is a narrow channel, half a mile wide, with depths of 5 J fathoms,
between the Dapur Islands and Dapur Point ; from thence to Nangka Point
there are several white rocks lying inside the mud flat close to the shore.

Sand Ridges off the South end of Banka. — H.M.S. Saracen, when searching
for the coral reef reported by the Netherlands barque Banha f (many promi-
nent points offering good objects for fixing her position), was enabled to
extend the soundings 20 miles off the land. The soundings were found to
be very irregular, long sand ridges, with deep water over a muddy bottom
between. None of these banks have less than 5 fathoms on them, with the
exception of one lying S.E. 1^ mile from Pulo Dapur, where there are
several patches of 3J fathoms over a sandy ground. At 7 miles E. by S. of
these patches, and separated by deeper water, is a bank of 4^ fathoms, coral
and sand, extending in an easterly direction for 3 miles ; it appears to be a
continuation of the Dapur Bank, and from its shoalest part Tanjong Baginda
bears N.E. by N. 6 miles.

Overfalls. — At full and change great overfalls were repeatedly noticed,
caused by the meeting of the ebb stream from Banka and Graspar Straits
over an uneven bottom.

* Dapur means cooking place. Prahus, in passing, generally land on these islands to
catch turtle, as it is the only place in Banka Strait where thej"^ are seen.

t This coral reef, ahout 3 miles in circumference, and prohablj' only 6 ft. water on it,
was reported as lying 15 miles from the South end of Banka Island. Its position was
given aslat. 3° 21' S., long. 106° 41' E,, and the land in sight (probably Mount St. Paul,
930 It. high) bore N.N.W.

TOBOE ALI LAMA— TOBOE ALI POINT. 201

TOBOE ALI LAMA is a hill about IJ mile N.N.E. of Dapur Point. Its
peak is of p3'ranii(ial lorm, and rises to an elevation of 512 ft.

NANGKA POINT is 2 miles N.W. from Dapur Point, and the coast be-
tween is ironted by rocks extending; about half a mile from it. The edge of
the bank is nearly a mile from Narigka Point, and has 5 fathoms water close
to, so that it must be approached carefully. The point may easily be dis-
tinguished by a round hillock over it 264 ft. high, and also the land receding
forming Toboe (Tobu) Ali Bay, the shore of which is low, and fringed at high
•water with sandy beaches inside the mud flat, which here extends 2 miles ofif
the land.

TOBOE ALI POINT, bearing N.W. byN., distant 5^ miles from Nangka
Point, has several white rocks near it, and has or had a conspicuous tree on
its summit, elevated 213 ft., and visible 14 miles ofll'.

Toboe Ali Port, with its red-roofed barracks, stands half a mile S.E. of
Toboe Ali Point, upon a low mound 40 ft. in height, at the left point of
entrance of a small river, on the banks of which is the village of Sabang,
situated close to the fort, and containing (^in 1860) a mixed population of 600
Malays and Chinese. At low water the river dries to a distance of 3 cables'
lengths from its mouth. A Dutch Administrator and a Captain with a small
military force garrison the fort.

The anchorage off Toboe Ali Port is in 4 fathoms, mud, with Toboe (Tobu)
Ali Lama Peak S.E. by E. ^ E., and Gadong Peak in line with Taboe Ali
Fort N.E. J N. Smaller vessels may approach on this bearing nearer the
shore, as the soundings decrease regularly. In southerly and south-westerly
winds there is a heavy swell here, which makes landing difficult.

No supplies of any description can be procured but water and wood ; the
former may be obtained at the above river, or at a small stream half a mile
to the eastward of it, from half flood to half ebb.

Mount St. Paul, 5 miles E.N.E. from Toboe Ali Point, rises with a gradual
acclivity on its south-eastern shoulder to a peak 990 ft. in height, with two
others adjoining of nearly the same eleviition, the western peak terminating
rather abruptly to a lower spur in the direction of Gradong Hill. When to
the westward of Puui Island, owing to a projecting spur from the middle
peak, the eastern peak of St. Paul is hidden, and the western one then ap-
pears the highest, and forms, with the N.W. brow, a saddle hill.

Gadong Hill is a pyramidal peaked hill 593 ft. high, W. by N. distant
nearly 2^ miles from Mount St. Paul.

Owing to the land contiguous to these hills and to Toboe Ali Lama being
low, they appear as islands at a distance over 15 miles.

Gossong Point bears N.W. byAV. 4 miles from Toboe Ali Point, the land
between forming a deep bay, with low mangrove trees. From Gossong to
Laboh Point the laud is more elevated, with numerous rocks close to the

I. A. ii D

202 BANKA STRAIT.

shore. Puni Island, lying midway between Gossong and Laboh Points is
a small islet, 47 ft. in height, and conspicuous from its white granite rucks.
" The small Puni Island and Gossong Point, seen in one, is a good mark for
being clear of the banks. Seen from a northerly bearing, this poiut looks
like an island."— (F. G. Petersen, 1875.)

Laboh Point bears N.W. f W., distant 12 miles from Nangka Point.
There is a hill, 250 ft. high, about a mile to the eastward of it, and another,
about the same height, and the same distance, to the nurthward. This point
from the suuth-eastward presents rather a shelving appearance, with large
white rocks extending from it.

Dahun Point is 7^ miles N.W. by W. \ W. from Laboh Point, and the
shore between is low and covered witn mangroves ; a range of hillocks runs
parallel to the coast.

The land at Dahun Point attains a greater elevation, and is faced with
sandy beaches and rocky points. At 4|^ miles N.N.E. ^ E. from the pcjint is
around woody hill, 315 ft. in height. Close to the coast, 2 miles N. by
W. i W. from Laboh Point, is a remarkable square tree, 167 ft. high,
which is very conspicuous, there being no others of the same elevation near
it. In clear weather it may be seen 12 miles off, closely resembling a ship
under sail.

Pulo Dahun, 30 ft. in height, is one of a cluster of rocks lying off Dahun
Point, nearly all of which are covered at high water. It is or was remark-
able by having a solitary tree on it. Paiijang Hill (or Long Hill) rises
close to the coast between Dahun and Banka Points. It had one conspi-
cuous tree on it in 1875. "When seen from the south-eastward it shows as a
•wedge, with its greatest elevation, 316 ft., on the eastern end. A stream of
fresh water runs close to the North side of this hill.

Banka Point and Hill.— Banka Point is 12^ miles N.W. by W. | W. from
Laboh Point, and the laud to the westward of it recedes into a bay. The
point is about the same elevation as Pulo Besai, but at 1^ mile to the north-
ward it rises to Banka Hill. From the north-westward it shows with a flat
top, having three clumps of trees on its summit, the whole height being 256
feet. Pulo Besar is nearly connected with Banka Point by rocks. It is but
3 cables in extent, and b3 ft. high, but shows up well when bfcaring between
S.E. and East.

The Coast, from the foot of Banka Hill, takes a W.N.W. direction for
about 4 miles, when it turns more to the northward to the entrance of a
small river ; from thence it curves round, formiiig a small bay to Pudi Point,
•when it runs pretty straight for 5 miles in a W. by N. direction, to Lalarie
Point. Mamelon Hummoch is a small round hill 265 It. high, standing by
itself 3 miles inland, in a N. by E. direction from Pudi Poiut. Two miles
and a half E. by N. of the Mamelon is another small hill ; 2^ miles N. by E.

LALAEIE-TIMBAGA EOCKS. 203

of which is a double-peaked hill, 396 ft. high; about 1^ mile east-northerly
of this last, is a hill 471 ft. high.

Lalarie, or Langhong Point, 75 ft. high, is very conspicuous. It had a
clump of trees on its extremity; those around it (in 186;^) have been cut
down, and their trunks whitewashed. It is the turning point into the main
part of the strait for vessels that have passed through the Stanton Channel.
"Round Lalarie Point should be ' whitewashed stumps,' but are not. The
point itself is very sharp and good for bearing. From N.E. the point looks
at first as if it were an island ; from the South the point is very sharp.
Clump of trees mentioned ia the chart I could not distinguish." — (F. G.
Petersen, 1875.)

A mud bank fronts the whole coast just described between Dapur and La-
larie Points. The 3-fathom line may be considered to mark its edge, which
in most places shoals very quickly inside that line. The chart will best show
its features. It should not be approached under 10 fathoms.

Casuarina Point, so called from a number of casuarina trees on it, is nearly
midway between Lalarie and Brani Points ; seen from the northward it ap-
pears as an island. The coast between is low, with sandy beaches at high
■water mark,

Brani, or Bold Point, 1 1 miles N. by W. f W. from Lalarie Point, is a
termination of a spur I'rom the Parmassang range, with a conical peak, 516
feet high, over it, showing very prominently both from the northward and
southward.

Timbaga Rocks (or Copper Each), so called from their reddish colour, are
three small rocks, lying East and West of each other, about a cable's length
in extent. The highest and westernmost rock is 4 ft. above high water,
and from it Second Point bears W. I N. 5f miles, and Brani Point N. by E.
3 miles. With a setting sun their reddish colour, from the contrast to the
green verdure of the land, makes them readily identified, but to render thera
more conspicuous at high water, and in the forenoon when they are not so
clearly seen, a white conical beacon, surmounted with a ball, was erected
on the highest rock, and the whole height being 24 ft. will make it visible
in clear weather at 6 or 7 miles. Shoal water, about half a mile in breadth,
extends nearly half a mile to the northward of the group, and 2^ miles to the
southward, and forms, with the shore and bank of Banka, a channel three-
quarters of a mile wide.

Several shoal patches of coral and sand have been found nearly 1^ mile
"W.N.W. from these rocks, but they are all inside the 10-fathom line, the
depth vessels are cautioned not to go within when passing them. These
patches are about a cable's length apart, having 2 fathoms least water on
them, and 8 fathoms close to. In approaching them the soundings shoal
suddenly from 20 to 10 fathoms. As a guide to lead ships clear, a temporary

204 BANKA STEAIT.

Hack huoy has been placed in 4 fathoms on the outer patch, about 2 cables'
lengths westward of the shoalest water.*

From the middle patch of 2 fathoms the Timbaga Rocks appear nearly in
line with a sharp peak (130 feet high) South of Bukit Limmaun, bearing
E.S.E. ; and the apex of a distant long hill (657 ft. high) is just open West
of a white rock off Tanjong Bedaauw, N. by E. f E. These patches and the
Timbaga Eocks will be avoided by not bringing Lalarie Point South of
S.E. f S., until Brani Peak bears E. by N. f N.

A rocky batik, about a mile in extent East and West, and half a mile
North and South, having 7 to 9 fathoms water over it, and 14 to 20 fathoms
close-to all around, lies W.N. AV. of the shoal patches just mentioned. From
its outer edge the largest of the Timbaga Eocks bears E. by S. ^ S., distant
3 miles, and Brani Peak E.N.E. 5 miles. Lalarie Point, bearing S.E. ^ S.,
which leads clear of the Timbaga Eocks and the above-mentioned patches,
also leads just outside the edge of this bank.

Water may be procured at a stream about half a mile to the northward of
the Timbaga Rocks, from half flood to half ebb, after which the mud pre-
vents a boat approaching near the shore.

Parmassayig Range is a chain of hills running from Brani Point in a N.E.
by N, direction for nearly 4 miles, to the highest peak, which rises to an
elevation of 1,608 ft. ; the range then turns more to the eastward, for a dis-
tance of about 3 miles, where it disappears.

Tanjong Bedaauw is a bold headland, N. \ E. 3^ miles from Brani Point,
the coast between forming a bay half a mile deep. A conspicuous white rock
45 ft. high, lies immediately off the point. Pulo Pemein, a good sharp mark
to be seen 7 miles off, is a small round island, 50 ft. high, lying N.W. by N.
2 miles from Bedaauw Point. Tanjong Karrah, 171 ft. high, bears N.N.E.
^ E., nearly 3 miles from Tanjong Bedaauw. Many rocks, some above and
others below water, extend more than half a mile off this point.

SLAN BAY. — The coast from Tanjong Bedaauw falls back to the eastward,
and between Tanjong Karrah and a point about 9 miles to the eastward of
the Nangka Islands is a deep shallow bight, named Slan Bay, into which the
Rivers Kotta and Slan disembogue. From the latter point the coast runs,
with a slight bend in towards a small river, about N.W. f N., 3^ miles to
Tanjong Tedong. On the coast line, in the depth of Slan Bay, is a conspi-
cuous tree, 196 ft. high.

Slan is the chief town of a pangkal, or district, and is municipally governed
by the administrator of the tin mines. Here, as at all other chief towns of
districts, a small number of Dutch troops are stationed.

* Captain Petersen reports that both the beacon and the buoy could not be seen by hira
in 1876, while passing.

THE NANGKA ISLANDS. 205

The edge of the Shore Mud Bank is nearly a mile outside Lalarie Point,
and from thence its direction is nearly straight, about North by West for
18J miles, or for 2h miles beyond Pulo Pemein, passing Casuarina and
Brani Points a little less than half a mile. It then assumes somewhat the
form of Slan Bay, which it fronts, and surrounding the Great Nangka
Island, projects a couple of spits or horns towards the bank extending
northward from the middle Nangka, From thence the edge falls back in a
north-easterly direction towards Tanjong Tedong, from which it extends
little more than a mile.

About two-thirds of a mile south-westward of Tanjong Bedaauw, a nar-
row inlet, having 3^ to 5 fathoms depths of water, runs into the bank in a
north-westerly direction, and turns to the northward nearly as far as Pulo
Pemein.

Northward of the Timbaga Pocks the bank may be approached to 8 or 7
fathoms, as far as a mile or two to the northward of Pulo Pemein, when
vessels may stand into 7 or 6 fathoms, until near the Nangka Islands, which
should not be approached on the West side nearer than 12 fathoms.

The NANGKA ISLANDS, three in number, lie about the middle part of
the strait, from 1^ to 4 miles distant from the shore of Banka Island, and 8
or 9 miles eastward of Third Point, on the Sumatra coast. Great Nangka,
285 ft. high, is If mile long North and South, and 1^ mile broad ; Middle
and West Nangka are each about half a mile long, the former being 125 ft.,
and the latter 205 ft. high.

Great Nangka is nearly half a mile within the edge of the mud-bank
which extends from the Banka shore. From the Middle Nangka a bank of
2 to 8 fathoms extends S.S.E. 1^ mile; from West Nangka a similar bank
projects to the southward for nearly a mile, and S.S.E. distant three-quarters
of a mile from its tail is a 3^-fathoms patch.

A small flat rock, 6 ft. above water, named West Reef, lies about 1^ cable
off the West end of West Nangka ; and another, 32 ft. high, named Tree
Hock, lies nearly one-third of a mile south-eastward of Middle Nangka, be-
tween it and Great Nangka.

A reef, named North Reef, with rocks above and below water, lies a quarter
of a mile off the North end of Middle Nangka, the mud-bank extending off
in the same direction about a quarter of a mile further.

Between the banks which surround the islands are intricate channels, from
2 to 4 cables broad, having from 4 to 7 fathoms water in them.

Water. — There is a stream of water on the West side of Great Nangka,
and another and smaller stream on the N.E. side ; but both streams are fre-
quently dry in the S.E. monsoon, and are difficult of approach for ships' boats.
H.M.S. Belleisle was watering at Great Nangka night and day, and only filled
30 tons in 36 hours. The natives are not to be trusted, but on the contrary
much caution is necessary while watering.

206 BANK A STRAIT.

In the N.W. monsoon it is higli water, full and change, at the Nangka
Islands, at 7 a.m., and the rise is about 9f ft. Many eddies and small
races will be met with in the vicinity of these islands. They are caused
by the tidal fluod wave from the China Sea meeting the flood from the south-
ward.

TANJONG TEDONG, bearing N.E. by E. i E., ",^ mile from the West
Nangka, is a conspicuous point, 234 ft. hi^h, inside tlie Nangka Islands, to
which it is connected by the mud baiik. A large cluster of rocks, some
above and others below water, lie about a mile north-westwar-d of the point,
only a short distance from the edge of the nmd-bank.

The Coast from Tanjong Tedong falls back to the N.E. into the bay, at the
bottom of which is the small liiver Semhoehn ; from thence it curves to the
N.W. to Tanjong Peiiegan, from which it again falls back about a mile to the
entrance of a small river of that name. The const line from this river rounds
the foot of the higher lani sloping down from Mundo Peak, and then forming
a small bay, tr'^nds N.N.W. to a point bearing E. by S. 2 miles from the
largest of the Meddang Islands, when it again bends to the N.E. for li mile
to the entrance of the Mundo River.

Mundo Bay.— From the Mundo River the coast trends to the N.W. about
8 miles to Tanjong Jurung-patt, forming the shore of Mundo Bay, with a
point about the centre of it projecting nearly a mile. T^^e -shore of this bay
is low, and covered with trees, which, at the entrance of the Kotta Waringin
River, are 121 ft. high. Tanjong Jurung-patt, 240 ft. high, is the western
limit of Mundo Bay. The land here begins to be more elevated, and con-
tinues to be so as far as the entrance of the Jiring River.

The coast from Tanjong Jurung-patt takes a westerly direction for nearly
3 miles to Tanjoyig Raya, where it falls back northerly about a mile to the
Tempelang River ; from thence it takes again a westerly direction for nearly 4
miles to Tanjong Ressam, the eastern extreme of Jiring Bay. This latter
point is prominent, and faces the S.W. ; it lies N.W. by AV. 12 miles from
the Meddang Islands.

Jiring Bay is the deep bight between Tanjong Rpssam and Tanjong Tadah,
the coast trending away from the former point in a N.N.W. direction to the
entrance of the River Jiring, and from thence curving round about W.S.W.
and S.W. to Tanjong Tadah, which bears from Tanjong Ressam W. ^ S.,
distant 8f miles. The shore of the bay is low, with three conspicuous trees
152 ft. high in its N.W. part. Tanjong Tadah, 203 ft. high, is readily recog-
nized, the land on botli sides being lower, and curving into two bays, giving
it a very prominent appearance.

Between Tanjong Tadah and Tanjong Puni, which lie nearly Eist and
West of each other, about 8 miles apart, there are two bays, each about
three-quarters of a mile deep, with a point having a hummock or mound,
256 ft. high, upon it midway between.

MONOPIN HILL. 207

Tanjong Snkal, 2 miles East by North from TanjongPuni, has a hill 209
feet high upon it, and a small river oa its West side. Tanjong Pani is low,
and the coast line rounds away very gradually on either side of it. From
thence to a point 7|- miles to the N.AV. by W. h W., the coast falls back and
forms a bay about a mile deep. From the latter point to Kalian Point the
bearing is W. f S., and the distance nearly 4 miles, the coast between form-
ing Mintok Bay.

There are several hills from 100 to 600 ft. high on the part of the coast
just described between Tanjong Tedong and the Mundo River. Mundo Peak
612 ft. high, and bearing E. by S. ;^ S. 4 miles from the Meddang Islands,
is the most convenient for fixing the vessel's position.

About three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the Tempelang River is
a small hill 263 ft. hi^jh ; and N.E. 3 miles from its entrance is Buht Tem-
pelang, a hill 412 ft. high ; W. by N. | N. from Bukit Tempelang is Biikit
Pandin, 585 ft. high, which will be found very useful when in this part of
the strait Solitary Sharp Peak, 661 ft. high, is the summit of a sharp cone
hill standing by itself, N. ^ E., distant 10^ miles from Tanjong Tadah ; this
is also very useful when brought in line with nearer objects, for giving a
correct line of direction.

Four or 5 miles inland from the coast between Puni Point and Mintok are
some hills, one of which, Bukit Beloe, IIZ ft. high, serves as a mark to clear
the Brom-Brom Reef and Amelia Bank ; a little to the westward is another
hiU 427 ft. high.

About 2 miles north-eastward of Bukit Beloe is Buht Panjang, or long
hill, 661 ft. high ; and nearly 3 miles north-westward of Beloe is a hill 454
feet high.

Meddang Islands are three islets lying about 3 miles off the entrance of
the Mundo River, and forming the SDUth-western extreme of Mundo Bay,
being joined to the main land by the mud flat. The largest islet is 147 ft.
high, and bears North 9 miles from the West Nangka. A small island,
named Pulo Antu, lies about 1^ mile north-eastward of the Meddang
Islands.

Pulo Sambayang is an islet 175 ft. high, lying about E. J S. nearly 3
miles from Tanjong Ressam, and \\ mile W.S.W. of the entrance to the
Tempelang River.

Karang Sarabu are a cluster of rocks, some above and others below water,
extending in a S. by E. J E. direction nearly 2 miles from the point with a
hummock on it between Tanjong Tadah and Tanjong Sukal.

MONOPIN HILL, or Gunong Manomhing, in lat. 2° U' S., long. 105° 12' E.,
rises near the West end of Banka, and its summit being 1,456 ft. high, may
be seen at a considerable distance, and serves as a guide in approaching to
or departing from the North end of Banka Strait. It frequently happens at

208 BANKA STEAIT.

the North entrance of the strait, that this hill is the only visible object,
especially when a vessel is near Sumatra in 5 or 6 fathoms water.

The edge of the bank, after passing a cable's length outside the rocks off
Tanjong Tedong, takes a N.N.W. direction, till abreast of the Meddang
Islands, outside of which it extends nearly a mile. From thence it curves
round Mundo Bay, projecting 4 miles to the southward of Tanjong Jurung-
ptitt ; it then runs to the westward, passing Tanjong Eessam at 4^ miles,
and Tanjong Tadah at nearly 3 miles.

Mundo Peak, well open to the southward of the Meddang Islands, leads
clear of the edge of this bank between those islands and Tanjong Tadah.

From Tanjong Tadah the bank still follows a westerly direction till South.
of Tanjong Puni, when it trends away sharply to the north-westward, fol-
lowing the curve of the coast line at an average distance of about \\ mile,
until abreast the East point of Mintok Bay, from which it is distant only
half a mile.

Between Tanjong Tedong and Tanjong Tadah, the soundings decrease
regularly towards the bank, which may there be approached to 5 or even 4
fathoms, except near the Meddang Islands, where a vessel should not shoal
under 9 fathoms. At Tanjong Tadah the bank begins to get steeper to, and
abreast of the Karang Sarabu Eocks, there are 9 and 10 fathoms pretty close
to its edge.

Caution. — The bank South of Puni Point is very shallow and steep-to,
having from 11 to 16 fathoms, almost close to its edge. Tanjong Tadah,
bearing E. by N. \ N., jutt clears this dangerous spit to the eastward, and
Monopin Hill N.W. by N., just clears it to the westward.

KARANG BROM-BROM is an extensive shoal of rocks and sand, dry in
some places at low water, lying 4| miles South from the shore between Tan-
jong Puni and Sukal. It is a little more than 2 miles long in a W. ^ N.
and opposite direction, and nearly half a mile wide at its western end, where
the rocks are, and from which Monopin Hill bears N.W. ^ N. ; the eastern
end tapers away to a sandy point. This danger was marked by a temporary
beacon, which is said to have disappeared (1875).

A red buoy was placed off the southern side of Karang Brom-Brom, in 1875,
in 5 fathoms water, with the middle of Monopin Hill bearing N. 40° W.,
and the East point of Cape Tadah, N. 50° E.

The highest part of the hummock on the point behind the Karang Sarabu
Eocks bearing N. ^ E , or the highest part of Tanjong Tadah bearing
N.E. t N., clears the eastern end more than half a mile ; and Bukit Beloe,
bearing N. ^ W., clears the western end nearly a mile.

A channel, 2 miles wide, having 7 to 15 fathoms water in it, lies between
the Broni-Brom and the shore bank. Nothwithstanding that the channel
between the Brom-Brom Eeef and Banka is only 2 miles wide, a vessel may
easily work through it by day, during the western monsooD, because she cau

KAEANG HADJI. 209

take advantage of the tides; but on the coast of Sumatra a strong easterly-
current runs with little interruption ; she must, however, be very careful in
crossing over to the coast of Banka, as the bank is very steep, and she might
suddenly fall from 7 to 3 fathoms before there would be time for a second
cast of the lead.

Amelia Bank is a small patch of hard ground, with 2| fathoms water over
it, at the S.E. extreme of the Mintok Bank, to the shoal patches of which it
is connected by a ridge of 4 and 5 fathoms water. From it the western ex-
treme of the Brom-Brom bears East 4i miles, and Monopin Hill N. by W. JW.
12 miles.

Bukit Boloe bearing N. i E. leads a mile to the eastward of the Amelia
Bank ; and the same hill N, by E. ^ E. leads the same distance to the west-
ward.

Mintok Bank extends from the Amelia Bank in a direction nearly parallel
to the shore, for a distance of 10 or 11 miles, to within about the third of a
mile of the Karang Hadji Eeef, off Kalian Point. It is composed of hard
sand, and has several patches with only 2^ and 3 fathoms water over them,
and 4 or 5 fathoms between. A 2-fathoms patch lies N.W. by N. 2i miles
from the Amelia Bank. Bukit Beloe, bearing N. by E. 5 E., which clears
the Amelia Bank to the westward, also clears the patch to the eastward.

From this last-mentioned patch, other patches of 2^ and 3 fathoms extend
N.AV. by W. for 5 miles, this part of the bank being about IJ mile wide.
For 2| miles further in the same direction the bank has from 4k to 7 fathoms
water over it, the deepest water appearing to be with Mintok Fort flagstaff
in line with the pier-head, bearing about N. by E. 5 E.

Another 3-fathoms patch lies with the lighthouse on Kalian Point bearing
N. ^ E. 1 J mile, from which 5 fathoms may be carried towards the Karang
Hadji Eeef until very close to it, when the water will suddenly deepen to 11,
17, or 20 fathoms. Monopin Hill, in line with the lighthouse on Kalian
Point, N.E. 2 N., leads westward of the 3-fathoms patch, between it and the
Karang Hadji Eeef.

A ship working through the strait, to keep clear of Mintok Bank, should
take care not to bring the lighthouse on Kalian Point to the westward of
N.W. byN.

KARANG HADJI is a dangerous reef of rocks and sand lying close to
the N.W. end of the Mintok Bank ; the rocks on it are all covered at high
water, but many of them are visible at half tide. The beacon marked on the
chart was not visible in 1875. The reef is 1 S- mile long N.W. by W. and
S.E. by E., and half a mile broad, and from its western and outer extreme
Kalian lighthouse bears E. | N. 2^ miles, and Tanjong Oelar and Tanjong
Bersiap are in line ; its eastern extreme bears S.'W. by W. J W. 1| mile
I. A. 2 b

210 BANK A STRAIT.

from Kalian Point. Close to it on the North, West, and South sides, the
depths are irregular from 16 to 21 fathoms.

A rock, with 1 2 ft. over it at low water, lies about 2 cables northward of
the Hadjie Reef, with Tanjong Bersiap, the western point of Banca Island,
bearing N. % E., and Kalian Point lighthouse E. J N.

Tanjong Oelar kept well open of Tanjong Bersiap clears the West end
of this reef ; the highest part of Monopin Hill in line with the lighthouse
clears its eastern extreme ; and Tanjong Puni bearing E. f S. clears it to
the soil th ward.

A red himj was placed off the N.W. side of Karang Hadjie, in 1875, in 4^
fathoms water; from it Tanjong Kalean bears N. 87° E., and Bersiap Hill
N. 26° E.

Inner or Binnen Bank, of hard sand, with 2^ fathoms water on it, and 7 or
8 fathoms close-to, extends East If mile from Kalian Point, when it turns to
the N.W. for about half a mile, thus forming a spit projecting to the east-
ward ; from thence it curves away and is lost in the sand-bank which extends
half a mile from the shore of Mintok.

Two-thirds of a mile E. by S. from this spit is a 3-fathoms patch, from
which Mintok pier-head bears N.N.W. | W., distant two-thirds of a mile,
and Kalian Point lighthouse West, northerly.

KALIAN Point and Light. — Kalian Point, low and sandy, with some
trees behind it, is the south-western extreme of the West end of Banka.
The lighthouse upon it, in lat. 2° 4' 37" S., long. 105° 9' E., is a white
stone tower with a red lantern, which shows, at an elevation of 170 ft., a
fixed white light, visible in clear weather at 20 miles.

About three-quarters of a mile N.W. from the lighthouse is Tanjong Batu-
hrani, the trees immediately behind which are 127 ft. high. Kalian Ledge is
a small reef, with only 6 to 9 ft. water over it, lying a little more than a mile
to the N.W. of Kalian Point ; from it the lighthouse bears S.E. by E., Ber-
siap Point N. \ W., and Monopin Hill N.E. I E.

Kalian Pass, formed by Kalian Point and Ledge on one side, and the
Karang Hadji Reef on the other, is three-quarters of a mile wide, with
soundings in it of 25 to 32 fathoms. This channel is generally used by
vessels coming from the northward and proceeding to Mintok Bay, and with
a fair wind is preferable to the passage outside the Karang Hadji ; but the
great depth, bad anchorage, and strong currents, render it unadvisable to
attempt to beat through.

In using this channel, the sandy point upon which the lighthouse stands
may be passed pretty close to ; and the lighthouse on the bearing of E. by S.
leads through between the Kalian Ledge and the Karang Hadji Reef.

MINTOK. — Two miles E.N.E. from Kalian Point, on the banks of a small

MINTOK. 211

river, is the town of Mintok, the capital of the island,* having a fort upon a
hill, and some stone houses close to the shore, the red roofs of which are
visible at a considerable distance. The resident and other Dutch officers
have houses on the hill near the fort, most of the native houses being lower
down nearer the sea. The mail steamers, which run twice a month between
Batavia and Singapore, always call here.

A pier nearly half a mile long, and running out to the edge of the bank,
has been built, and is of great advantage to the trade of the place ; on the
extremity of the pier a small fixed white light is shown all night.

The best anchorage for large ships is in 10 to 6 fathoms, about 1 J mile
from the shore, with Monopin Hill bearing about N. J E., and Kalian Point
about W.N. W. or W. by N. The ordinary anchorage of the Dutch man-of-
war stationed in Banka Strait, and of the merchant vessels trading to Min-
tok, which are usually of a small class, is in 4^ or 5 fathoms inside the 3-
fathoms patch lying off the spit which extends from the Binnen Bank, at
any convenient distance and direction from the pier-head.

The usual route to Mintok Road is across the Mintok Bank, between the
Karang Hadji Eeef and the Amelia Bank. A vessel coming from the
northward, and bound for the road, may proceed either through the Kalian
Pass, or she may pass outside the Karang Hadji Reef, and then follow the
usual track across the Mintok Bank. A good mark for crossing the bank is
Monopin Hill in line with the flagstaff on the fort bearing N. by E. \ E.,
which will lead over it in 5 or 6 fathoms water; another good mark is
Monopin Hill in line with the lighthouse N.E. ^ N. No ship can cross the
bank in safety with Monopin Hill bearing to the westward of North ; with
the hill bearing North, a ship crossing the bank would have 3 fathoms at
low water spring tides, the bottom hard sand, coral, and shells. When over
the bank, the water will deepen to 18 or 20 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, and
shoal again quickly towards the inner bank and the shore.

With a working wind, keep Monopin Hill N. J E. and N.N.E.

To enter Mintok Road from the eastward, a vessel must work between the
shore and the Mintok Bank, being careful not to bring Tanjong Tadah to
the eastward of E. by N. f N., until Monopin Hill bears N. W. by N.

A hard sandy bottom and shoal water will show when near the edge of the

* Banka, like the adjacent countries, is now under the dominion of the Dutch, and has
been so without dispute since 1821, M^hen it was finally conquered from the treacherous
Sultan of Palembang in Sumatra. .\s is well known, the chief commercial product is tin :
a government monopoly, chiefly worked by Chinese, who form more than a moiety of the
total population- of Banka, estimated at 35,000. The island is comparatively sterile, and
the natives rude and treacherous. There are numerous other colonies of Malays and
Javanese, in addition to the Chinese immigrants. The chief geological feature is the range
of volcanic and granitic hills which runs through the island, parallel to and of similar
character to those on the Malay pcninbula.

212 BANKA STRAIT.

Mintok Bank ; while, to avoid the shallow along the coast, Monopin Hill
must not be brought more to the westward than N.W. by N., and taking
care not to shoal to less than 5 fathoms.

At Kalian P(jint it is high water, full and change, in the N.W. mon-
soon, at 8'' 17" a.m., and in the S.E. monsoon at 8 p.m.; the springs rise
12 J ft.

Tanjong Bersiap, 168 ft. high, beai'sfrom Tanjong Batu-brani, the north-
western extreme of Kalian Point, N. by W. i W., distant 3^ miles. The
coast between curves slightly inland, and is fronted by a bank extending
nearly a mile from it, pretty close to which are 7 and 10 fathoms. Inside
the edge of this bank, and lying some distance off Bersiap Point, is a cluster
of rocks, some of which are above and others below water. Bersiap Hill,
336 ft. high, is small, and stands by itself, about IJ mile N.E. of the point.
About 2 miles N.E. of the hill, the extreme of a range running from Monopin
to the N.W. forms a conspicuous peak 709 ft. high.

Tanjong Oelar, 156 ft. high, is about 4 miles N. by E. from Tanjong Ber-
siap ; nearly midway between is a remarkable yellow cliff. About three-
quarters of a mile northward of the yellow cliff, and just to the South of a
point with a rock off it, is a stream of water. Oelar Reefs is the name given
to the rocky and uneven ground, with reefs and rocks above water in places,
extending off shore between Bersiap and Oelar Points. From a mile off
Bersiap Point, it runs in a N. by W. direction for nearly 3 miles, when it
trends away to the north-eastward, passing about three-quarters of a mile
outside Oelar Point, immediately off which are several rocks above water.

Transit Rock, on which H. M.S. 7V«ws?Y was wrecked, 10th July, 1857, lies
at the western extremity of this rocky, imeven ground, at 2J miles off shore,
and W. I N. 8 cables' lengths from a reef which generally shows, except at
high tides, with 6 and 10 fathoms between them. The least depth on the
rock at low water springs is 12 ft., and from this spot Oelar Point bears
N.E. by E. ; the highest point of Monopin Eange E. by S. f S. ; and Kalian
Point is IJ" open of Bersiap Point S.S.E. southerly, distant from the latter
point 2J miles. There are 20 fathoms water at a cable's length to the west-
ward of the 12-feetline ; the depth around varying from 14 to 12, 7, and 5
fathoms over very uneven bottom.

A roL-k awash, at low water springs, lies E. | N. 2 cables' lengths from
the Transit Pock ; and there are 4i fathoms (perhaps less) rocky bottom, at
half a mile to the northward of the Transit, with 20 fathoms close-to ; the
locality of the latter is indicated by strong ripples.

Tanjong Batu-brani well open of Tanjong Bersiap, bearing S.S.E. ^ E.,
clears the Transit Eock to the westward; and Tanjong Biat, well open of
Tanjong Oelar, bearing E.N.E., clears it to the northward.

TANJONG BIAT bears N.E. | E., distant 3 miles from Tanjong Oelar,
and, like that point and Tanjong Bersiap, has rocks above and below water,

FREDERICK HENDRICK ROCKS. 213

extending some distance off it. The line of danger which extends about
three-quarters of a mile off Tanjong Oelar, follows the curve of the coast line
at about the same distance towards Biat Point, where it projects rather
farther off. In the bay between Oelar and Biat Points is a small stream of
water, with a village close to it.

Rocky Patches, with 20 fathoms close to them, lie off Tanjong Biat,
having a narrow channel with 10 and 11 fathoms water in it between them
and the rocky ground extending from the coast. From the outer patch of 3
fathoms, Tanjong Oelar bears S. ^ W. 3 miles, and Tanjong Biat S.E. by E.,
a little over 2 miles.

Tanjong Oelar bearing South leads nearly half a mile westward of these
dangers; and Buh'f ^atu, a hill 708 ft. high, about 12 miles eastward of
Tanjong Biat, bearing E. by S., leads northward of them.

Caution. — The West coast of Banka, between Tanjong Kalian and Tan-
jong Biat, is very dangerous to approach, owing to the rocky patches just
described and the deep water close to them ; ships should, therefore, exercise
great caution when in this vicinity, observing that Tanjong Bersiap, if not
brought to the westward of South, will clear all the dangers between Tan-
jongs Oelar and Biat; and they should be careful to regard the marks given
to clear the Transit Rock.

FREDERICK HElv DRICK ROCKS lie at the northern entrance of Banka
Strait, nearly midway between Batakarang Point on the Sumatra coast and
Tanjong Oelar on the Banka coast. They consist of two rocky patches,
lying North and South of each other, having only 9 ft, on the northern patch,
and 3 ft. on the southern. The two patches occupy a space about a mile
long. North and South, and half a mile broad.

From the 3-feet patch Monopin Hill bears nearly E. by S. 14 miles; and
the lighthouse on Kalian Point S.E. by E. ^ B. 12f miles.

Monopin Hill E. | S. leads about half a mile southward of the 3-ft- patch;
and Monopin Hill in line with the remarkable yellow cliff between Bersiap
and Oelar Points, E. by S. | S., leads 2 miles northward of the northern
patch.

Close around the shoal are 16 to 20 fathoms water.

A red buoy is moored on the South point of Frederick Hendrick Reef,
in 5 fathoms, with Kalean light bearing S.E. by E. \ E., Bersiap Hill
E. by S., and Mount Parree N E. by E. It is visible about 3 miles off ; but
as the buoy from the strong tides frequently shifts its position, vessels are
cautioned not to place too much dependence on it.

Channels. — The channel westward of the Frederick Hendrick Rocks is the
one most generally used, the depths in it being moderate, decreasing regu-
larly towards the bank extending from the Sumatra coast ; whereas in the
channel eastward of the shoal the water is much deeper, and the depths
irregular.

214 BANKA STEAIT.

Between the shoal and the 3-fathoms line at the edge of the mud-bant
extending from Batakarang Point, the channel is 4| miles wide, having 16
and 17 fathoms close outside the 10-fathoms line towards the rocks; the
depths under 10 fathoms decreasing regularly towards the bank.

The channel between the shoal and the Transit Eoek and reefs off the
"West coast of Banka is 8 miles wide, having 16 to 20 fathoms at 3 or 4
miles eastward of the shoal, and 19 to 25 miles nearer Banka, which depth*
increase to 24 and 30 fathoms close to the dangers extending from that
coast.

Directions for West Channel. — To avoid the Frederick Hendrick Eocks,
vessels taking the channel between them and Sumatra should keep in 4^ to
7 fathoms water on the edge of the bank off Batakarang Point, and not keep
more to the eastward than in 9 or 10 fathoms, while Monopin Hill bears
between East and E.S.E.

In working thx'ough this channel a vessel should not deepen to more than
9 fathoms towards the Hendrick Eocks, but the bank off Batakarang Point
may be neared to 5 or 4i fathoms. When Monopin Hill bears E.S.E., the
vessel will be northward of the rocks.

In the East Channel, Mounts Punyabung, Paree, and Jerankat, on the
N.W. part of Banka, will appear like islands. To pass eastward of the
Frederick Hendrick, keep Mount Punyabung N.E., until Monopin Hillbears-
E. i S., when Punyabung must not be more eastward than N.E. ; and when
Monopin is E. by S. J S., Punyabung must not be more ISorth than N.E. ^ N.,
so as to avoid in the first case the Hendrick Eocks, and in the second the
Transit Eock. "When Monopin bears southward of S.E., Mount Punyabung
must not be brought to the northward of N.E.

Soundings in Banka Strait. — In Banka Strait, between Lalarie and Second
Points, the depths are from 17 to 25 fathoms, shoaling suddenly from those
depths to 10 fathoms on the Banka side of the strait, but decreasing regu-
larly towards the 10-fathoms line on the Sumatra side.

The various banks and coral patches which exist in the strait, having more
than 5 or 6 fathoms on them, will be best understood by reference to the
chart. The dangerous banks have been described. Indeed, throughout the
strait, the soundings cannot alone be relied upon to conduct a vessel safely
through ; but when associated with careful bearings and frequent references
to the chart, a stranger need not run the least risk, or experience any diffi-
culty in passing through the strait for the first time.

( 215 )

STANTON AND LUCIPAEA CHANNELS.

The STANTON CHANNEL, which was surveyed, or rather discovered, by
Mr. W. Stanton, E.N., in command of H.M.S. Saracen, in 1859-60, is a
most important addition to our knowledge of these entrances to the China
Sea. This is the more so, inasmuch as the Lucipara Channel to the west-
ward of it is said to be filling up in consequence of the extension of the low
Sumatran coast His directions which follow will be found precise and suffi-
cient. He also makes the following general remarks : It has hitherto been
the custom for all ships to work along the Sumatra coast, where they have
not only a strong wind, but a constant current to contend with ; consequently
sailing vessels have been delayed tivo and three weeks, and instances have been
known of vessels being a month making the passage through Banka Strait.

The Saracen frequently worked well to windward under fore and aft sails,
when the clipper ships could not make any progress, and were compelled to
anchor on the Sumatra side. From my past experience, I feel confident that
a smart sailing vessel, by taking advantage of the tides and currents, and
following the directions hereafter given, may make the passage even in the
fall strength of the monsoon in three or four days.

The Stanton Channel, lying along the south-western coast of Banka, is 19
miles long, and nearly 3 miles wide at its narrowest part, with depths, mid-
channel, increasing gradually from 7 fathoms at its south-eastern entrance to
20 fathoms near the other extreme. The approaches to it from the southward
are marked by the well-defined mountain of St. Paul, and the conical hills
of Gadong and Toboe Ali Lama (page 201), and in fine clear weather by the
more distant range of Padang, 2,217 ft. high; these cannot fail to point out
the entrance, and the water being deep within half a mile of the Dapur
Islands (page 200), will give strangers confidence in steering for the land.
Prominent points and bills will also be seen along the Banka coast, bearings
of which will enable a vessel at any time to ascertain her position.

The channel is bounded by narrow banks extending in a N.W. by W. and
S.E. by E. direction, and all partaking of the same formation (sand) in their
shoalest parts, with a mixture of mud and sand between. The two marking
the western boundary of the channel are named Smits and Melvill Banks, and
off the latter a lightvessel would be most useful.

Smits Bank consists of four smaller banks, nearly connected, and forming
one long narrow ridge 15 miles in length, with its shoalest part of 3 ft.,
lying 6 miles, and the next shoalest of 9 ft., 3 miles from the north-western
end; two other patches of 3 fathoms and 2f fathoms lie on the S.E. part of
the bank.

Panjang Hill, bearing N.E., leads to the north-eastward of this bank, be-
tween it and the Nemesis Bank, in 6 fathoms at low water. Gradong Peak

216 BA.NKA. STRAIT.

in line with Toboe Ali Point N.E. i E., or Lucipara S.W., clears the south-
eastern end in 4 fathoms ; and Lalarie Point N.W. by W. ^ W., or not ap-
proaching the bank to a less depth than 10 fathoms, clears the north-eastera
fiide.

Melvill Bank, 5 miles long, and nearly half a mile broad, lies a quarter
of a mile to the eastward of the south-eastern part of Smits Bank, with a
depth of 7 and 8 fathoms between. The shoalest part of this bank is near
its north-western extremity, and is about 2 miles in length, with from 2 to
3 fathoms on it. At the North end, in 5 fathoms, Laboh Point bears N.E.
by E. ; and tlie bank is cleared to the south-eastward in 7 fathoms by the
latter point b-^aring N. by E. i^ E. ; and to the eastward in 8 fathoms, by
bringing Parmassang Peak to touch the West side of Banka Hill N.W. | N.

Between the above banks and Lucipara, there are many others all trend-
ing in the same direction, with narrow deep-water channels between ; but as
these channels are exceedingly narrow, and no marks can be given to clear
the banks, they are not available for vessels.

Eastern Bank, — The bank bounding the eastern side of Stanton Channel
is 13 miles long and nearly a mile wide, at 3 miles S.W. by S. of Laboh
Point, which is the broadest and shoalest part. It is formed by three smaller
banks nearly joined together, with from 2 to 3 fathoms on the north-western
and south-eastern ones, and only 4J ft. on the middle of the centre bank.
The north-western extremity is separated from a projecting horn, extending
from the shore mud flat at 2 miles S.S.W. of Pulo Dahun, by a narrow
channel of 6 fathoms.

Gadong Peak, in line with Toboe Ali Fort, bearing N.E. ^ N., leads to
the southward of the south-eastern part of the bank in 4J fathoms ; Dapur
Island S.E. by E. f E. leads to the westward ; and the Mameion or Hum-
mock, kept open to the westward of Pulo Besar, N.W., clears the West side
of the north-western extremity of the above banks.

A small bank of sand lies 1 mile to the westward of the south-eastern
extreme of the eastern bank, but as not less than 4J fathoms were found on
it at low water, it is not dangerous to ships passing through.

Inner Channel. — To the eastward of the eastern bank along the coast of
Banka, there is an inner channel nearly a mile wide, with 4 to 6 fathoms
water in it, but as it is encumbered with shoals it is only navigable for small
vessels. Dapur Island, bearing S.E. by E., leads nearly in mid-channel.

There are also two outlets into the main channel over the western bank,
in 5 and 4 fathoms ; the former with Pulo Dahun bearing N.N.E. ; the
latter and southern outlet, when Pulo Puni and Gossong Point are in line,
E. ^N.

Nemesis Bank, lying nearly mid-channel between Pudi Point and False
First Point, is a long ridge of sand extending 9 miles in a N.W. by W. and

STANTON CHANNEL. 217

S.E. by E. direction, with irregular soundings of from 3 to 10 fathoms on it.
The shoalest part consists of two patches of ?> fathoms, each about 2 cables'
lengths in extent^ upon one of which the French frigate Nemesis grounded in
1857. They lie E. S.E. and W.N. W. from each other, distant half a mile,
and from the western patch Lalarie Point bears N.N.W. i W. 4J miles, and
False First Point S.S.W. i W. 4^ miles.

Casuarina Point kept open of Lalarie Point, bearing N. by W. f W., leads
to the westward of these shoal patches, in 14 fathoms water; the Mamelon
or Hummock, N. by E. i E., or False First Point S.W. i S., leads to the
eastward ; and Lalarie Point bearing N.AV. | N., clears them to the north-
ward. There is another patch of 5 fathoms lying 2 miles from the south-
eastern extreme of the bank, with False First Point W. i S., and First Point
S. by W. i W., distant SJ miles.

Anchorage may be found anywhere in the Stanton Channel, but ships
bringing up with their kedge or stream anchor must always be prepared to
let go the bower anchor, as there will be experienced, particularly during the
change of the monsoons, very dangerous squalls, with heavy rain, thunder,
and lightning, which generally last for about an hour.

TIDES. — In the S.E. monsoon it is high water, full and change, at Toboe
Ali Point, on the Banka shore, at 8** 30™ p.m., and at 10 a.m. in N.W.
monsoon. The ordinary rise at springs is lOf ft., but it sometimes reaches
12 ft. The highest tide generally occurs two days after full and change.
The rate at springs is 2^- knots. The flood stream sets to the N."W. and runs
for about 12 hours, and the ebb the same period in the opposite direction,
but they are both sometimes influenced by the strength of the monsoon.
When it is blowing strong from the S.E., the flood stream often runs for 14
hours.

A vessel may carry a fair tide all the ivay through by starting from either
extremity of the strait at low water, as the tidal waves from the China and
Java Seas meet near the Nangka Islands.

At Laboh Point it is high water, full and change, at 1 1 p.m. in the S.E.
monsoon, and the rise at ordinary springs is 10 ft.

After rounding Lalarie Point in the S.E. monsoon the flood sets N.N.W.,
and the ebb to the S.S.E., along the Banka shore.

The time of high water at Laboh Point being 2 J hours later than at Toboe
Ali Puint, in the southern part of Stanton Channel, for a few days after full
and change the tides will be found (as there is generally 12 hours' flow and
ebb) to run in one direction all night, and the opposite direction during the
day, with a velocity of from 2^ to 3 knots. The current also setting directly
mid-channel, the flood N.W. by W., and the ebb S.E. by E., vessels may
take advantage of it in light airs to drop through.

Directions for Statiton Channel from the Southward. — Vessels from the south-

I. A. 2 1'

218 BANK A STEAIT.

ward, intending to proceed into Banka Strait by the Stanton Channel, can-
not fail, in approaching the coast of Banka, to recognise the mountain of
St. Paul (page 201) by its flattish top having several nipples of nearly the
same elevation, and Gadong and Toboe Ali Lama Peaks by their conical
appearance. Should the weather be clear, the distant high range of Pedang
will be visible. The highest peak of this range is quoin-shaped, attaining
from its western shoulder an elevation of 2,217 ft., with several lower hilla
of a rounder and more conical appearance adjoining, the two westernmost
being about 1,200 and 1,400 ft. high.

After recognizing Mount St. Paul and Toboe Ali Lama Peak, approach
the latter on a North bearing, and when about 3 miles to the southward of
the Dapur Islands, steer N.W. by W., which will lead nearly mid-channel
to abreast Banka Point ; recollecting the marks given at p. 216, for clearing
the Melvill and Eastern Bank.

When off Laboh Point, the high range of Parmassang will be visible,
rising from a gradual slope on its western shoulder to a flat-top peak, with
two lower ones adjoining. The three hills, Banka, Panjang, and Woody,
will also be seen ; the two former may be known by their wedge shape, and
the latter by its isolated position.

Prom abreast Banka Point a course may be shaped along the Banka
shore, passing Lalarie Point at a distance not within IJ mile, and from
thence to Second Point. When Pulo Dahun bears North, great care must
be taken to avoid the spit which extends in a south-easterly direction from
the shore mud flat, between the above island and Banka Point. The Ma-
melon or Hummock, N.W., well open to the westward of Pulo Besar, clears
this spit (page 216) ; from thence to the Timbaga Eocks the bank may be
avoided by not shoaling towards it under a depth of 10 fathoms.

Working through this channel from the eastward, vessels may stand towards
the South extreme of the Dapur Islands to a distance of half a mile, as these
islands have deep water at 4 cables' lengths from them. Between this and
Toboe Ali the shore mud flat may be approached until Pulo Dapur bears
S.E. by E. ^ E., and Lucipara may be neared to a distance of 5 miles ; but
when Gadong Peak bears N.E. ^ N., or comes in line with Toboe Ali Fort,
Pulo Dapur must not be brought to the southward of S.E. by E. | E. to clear
the north-eastern part of the Eastern bank.

Parmassang Peak touching the West side of Banka Hill N W. | N., will
clear the Melvill Bank, and when Laboh Point bears N.E. J N., by not
shoaling under 10 fathoms, all the banks on both sides will be cleared.
Lalarie Point N.W. by W. \ W. will also clear the north-eastern part of
Smits Bank.

The shoal patches on the Nemesis Bank should not be approached under a
depth of 10 fathoms until Casuarina Point comes open of Lalarie Point, and
in rounding the latter point take care not to come into a less depth than 10

LTTCIPAEA CHANNEL. 219

fathoms, as the bank is here steep-to. The Timbaga Rocks may also be
avoided by following the same precaution, and from thence it is recommended
to work up from Second Point along the Sumatra coast.

From the Westward.— Proceeding through Stanton Channel from the
westward, when abreast and IJ mile distant from Lalarie Point, an E.S.E.
course will lead nearly mid-channel between the Nemesis Bank and the
bank extending from the Banka shore, but when Panjang Hill bears N.E.
a more southerly course must be shaped to pass in mid-channel. When
Dahun Point bears North, the Mamelon or Hummock open of Pulo Besar
N.W. (the clearing mark for the spit off Pulo Dahun, page 216), also leads
directly through the channel.

Working through from the westward in the S.E. monsoon, the same pre-
caution must be taken as already mentioned to avoid the shoalest part of the
Nemesis Bank, which will be passed when the Mamelon bears N. by E. J E. ;
and should a strong flood tide be 'then running, it would be advisable to
anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, sand, on the Nemesis Bank, as the water on both
sides of it is deep, and wait for a change of tide, or the chance of the land
breeze, which blows generally either during the night or early in the morn-
ing from the Banka shore. When Panjang Hill bears N.E., Lalarie Point
must not be brought to the northward of N.W. by W. \ W. to avoid Smits
bank, and the same directions as already given in not approaching the banks
under 10 fathoms until Laboh Point bears N.E. j N., will be quite sufficient
to enable any vessel to work through.

LTJCIPARA CHANNEL. — The South entrance to this channel is between
Lucipara Island and Lucipara Point, nearly West, 9 miles distant from it.
The western side of the channel (p. 193) is bounded by the mud flat which
projects from the coast of Sumatra for 2 miles and more, and its eastern side
by various hard and dangerous sandbanks, which narrow the breadth of the
passage to IJ and 2 miles.

Mr. Stanton is of opinion that this channel will, within a few years, be-
come unnavigable for vessels of large draught, owing to the rapid extension
of the mud flat projecting from the Sumatra coast on the western side, and
to the extension, also of the sandbanks on the eastern side.

Round Shoal. — The southern sandbank in this channel is nearly 2 miles
long W N.W. and E.S.E., and about a mile broad, the least water, 1^
fathoms, being near the middle of it. From its southern edge, in 3 fathoms,
the summit of Lucipara Island bears S.E. ^ E. 1\ miles, and from the
western edge S.E. ^ E. 9 miles. The narrowest part of the Lucipara Channel
is between the lightvessel off the western extreme of this bank and the
mud flat extending from the Sumatra coast.

LIGHTVESSEL. — In 1870 the Lucipara Channel Lightvessel, showing a
fixed bright light, elevated 28 ft., and visible 10 miles off, was placed in the
position formerly occupied by a buoy, in the narrowest part of the channel,

220 BANKA STRAIT.

off the N.W. side of Round Shoal. She is painted yellow, and carries one
mast with a black ball on the top. From the lightvessel, Green Point bears
N.W. f N. 4A miles nearly, Lucipara Point S. by W. ^ W., and Lucipara
Island summit, S.E. | E. 9 miles,

Hindostan Bank extends from close to the eastern edoje of the Round
Shoal N.N.W. ^ W. about 3-|- miles. The depths on the southern and
middle parts of it are 1 to 3 fathoms, but about three-quarters of a mile
from its northern extreme is a patch of hard sand, with only 3 feet water
over it.

Merapie Shoal, the most northern of the banks on the eastern side of the
Lucipara Channel, is composed, like the others, of hard sand, and is three-
quarters of a mile in extent North and South, and more than half a mile
broad. The least water on it is 2^ fathoms. From the middle of the shoal,
False First Point is in line with First Point.

In the Lucipara Channel the bottom is generally hard sand on the banks
towards the eastern side, and soft mud on the western or Sumatra side ; yet
close to the north-western edge of the Middle sand-bank the bottom is also
soft, with 5^ and 6 fathoms. It is, therefore, advisable not to keep in too
bard or in too soft bottom, but in the middle of the channel.

Directions for Lucipara Channd from the Southward. — When bound towards
Banka Strait from the southward, the Island of Lucipara is generally made
between the bearings of N. by E. and N.W., and in 5'^ to 8 or 9 fathoms.
With westerly winds it is advisable to keep on the western side of the chan-
nel in 4f to 5J fathoms.

In clear weather, when the Parmassang Range is visible, the highest peak
on the western extreme of the range in line with First Point, N. by W. ^ W.
will lead up to abreast the lightvessel. This mark should be left when Luci-
para Island bears about E.S.E., or S.E. by E. ; then, by keeping the Mame-
lon Hummock (page 202) on a N. f W. bearing, it will lead through
between the bank off First Point and the Merapie Shoal, until Lalarie. Point
is seen well open of First Point, when a vessel may begin to edge away to
the westward to round First Point, taking care not to approach it nearer
than a mile, as the bank projecting from the point is steep-to, especially on
its N.E. side. After rounding First Point at not less than that distance,
a N.W. ^ W. course will lead midway between False First Point and the
Nemesis Bank.

From, the Northward. — Entering Lucipara Channel from the northward,
First Point must be rounded with great caution, on account of its being
steep-to, especially on its north-eastern side, and it must not be approached
nearer than a mile ; at the same time, if the tide is running to the south-
eastward, it will be necessary to use proper care that, in giving a safe berth
to First Point, the vessel is not set too near the Merapie Shoal, which the
tide will be likely to do unless guarded against. When Mamelon Hummock

LUCIPAEA CHANNEL. 221

bears N. f W., keep it so, until Lucipara is S.E. by E., or E.S.E., when
Parmassang Peak may be brought in line with First Point, N. by W. I W.,
which will lead clear of the Sumatra Bank ; or a S.E. by E. course may be
steered, which will lead midway between Lucipara and the main.

Working through this channel, a vessel may stand toward the Sumatra
Bank safely by attending carefully to the lead, remembering not to go into
less than 6J fathoms when near the elbow projecting just to the southward
of Green Point. Lucipara must not be approached nearer than 2 miles,
when bearing to the northward of N.E. by E. ; between the bearings of
N.E. by E. and E. by S. it may be approached to a mile.

Careful attention to the lead and a good look-out will also give sufficient
warning when standing towards the banks on the eastern side.

Caution. — Many vessels passing through the Lucipara Channel have
grounded on the mud flat extending from the coast of Sumatra, especially a
short distance to the southward of Green Point, where the flat extends far-
ther out, and all have been obliged, before they could get off, either to trans-
ship or to throw a part of the cargo overboard, as the anchors which were
laid out on the soft muddy bottom to heave them oflP came home. This part
of the flat shoals suddenly from 6 to 3 fathoms, and therefore should never
be approached to a less depth than 6A- fathoms.

It will also be necessary to use great caution when working through this
channel from the southward, and standing to the eastward, to avoid being
set on the banks by the tides, which sweep over them with great strength.
In wofking through this channel from the northward, similar caution is
required. With light winds it is very difficult to get into the northern
entrance, the tides sweeping vessels away to the south-eastward amongst
the banks.

Directiom from Lalarie Point through Banha Strait. — Having passed through,
either Stanton or Lucipara Channels, and brought Lalarie Point to bear
about East, distant 3 miles, a N.N.W. f W. course for about 10 miles will
lead midway between the rocky bank of 7 or 8 fathoms water, lying north-
westward of the Timbaga Rocks, and the mud-bank projecting from Second
Point. Continuing the same course for 6 or 7 miles further, the vessel will
be 1^ to If 'mile outside the horn or spit projecting from the Sumatra Flat
(page 194). Still continuing the same course for another 14 or 15 miles
Third Point will bear S.W., distant about 2 miles.

If a vessel following this track, after having passed Second Point, should
shoal the soundings under 6 fathoms, she wiU be getting too near the Suma-
tra Flat, and should haul out more to the eastward ; remembering that
Second Point must not be brought eastward of S. by E. f E. until Par-
massang Peak bears E.S.E., to clear the spit or horn projectino' from the
bank.

From the above position ofi" Third Point, a W. by N. I N. course may be

222 BANKA STEAIT.

steered for about 28 or 29 miles, which, if the vessel be not affected by-
tides or currents, will place her in a position from which Fourth Point
will bear about S.E. f S. distant 7 miles, and Monopin Hill N. i E. t»

N. JE.

From thence steer about N.W. by W. for Batakarang Point— paying par-
ticular attention to the tides, which frequently set strong into or out of the
Palembang Eivers (pp. 191-2) — and the vessel will soon pass over a narrow
bank of sand, having 7 fathoms on it, and again deepen the water to 13
and 16 fathoms. Having run 15 or 16 miles, the soundings will again de-
crease under 10 fathoms, and she will be on the edge of the bank extending
from Batakarang Point, and may proceed along the edge of it in from 8 to 6
fathoms; the directions given at page 214 must then be followed to pass
westward of the Frederick Hendrick Rocks, which channel is recommended
as being the best and safest, especially at night.

Through Banla Strait from the Northward. — A vessel having passed the
Toedjoe, or Seven Islands, and steering to the southward for the entrance
of Banka Strait, will find no difiiculty in clear weather in fixing her position
which can be readily done by cross bearings of Mount Punyabung or Saddle
Hill, and Monopin Hill ; under such circumstances the strait can be entered
on either side of the Frederick Hendrick Pocks by attending to the directions
given at page 214. But in thick weather it often happens that no land can
be seen until the vessel has arrived very near to the entrance of the strait,
and at such times it is important to get hold of the bank extending from the
Sumatra coast, and then proceed along its edge in 8 to 6 fathoms, carefully
attending to the lead. Sometimes Monopin will be seen, but no other land,
in such case it will be prudent to proceed as before, keeping along the edge
of the bank.

Working through Banha Strait. — Directions have been given in pages
217-18 and 220, for working into the strait from the southward, and in page
214 for working into it from the northward by the channels on either
side of the Frederick Hendrick Eocks ; it may, however, be as well to remark
again here that the passage westwai-d of the Frederick Hendrick Shoal is
much to be preferred at night, or when the land is obscured and reliable
bearings cannot be obtained.

The bank fronting the Sumatra coast may be conveniently approaced when
well between the points, by common attention to the lead ; but off' the pijints
and for a few miles on either side of them great attention must be paid to
the soundings. The most dangerous part of the bank is from Fourth Point
for about 6 miles to the westward of it, which must be approached with the
utmost caution.

Mr. Stanton strongly recommends vessels working in either direction
through the strait, or proceeding through with a fair wind and_^contrary tide,
to avoid the Sumatra coast and keep on the Banka shore, between Lalarie

LUCIPARA CHANNEL. 223

Point and Tanjong Tadah. He observes that hitherto it has been the cus-
tom for all ships to work along the Sumatra coast, where they have not only
a strong wind but a constant current to contend with, consequently, sailing
vessels have been delayed two or three weeks, and instances are known of
vessels being a month making the passage through Banka Strait, whereas a
smart sailing vessel, by keeping on the Banka side, taking advantage of the
tides, and following the directions given below, may make the passage even
in the full strength of the monsoon in three or four days.

The advantages gained by keeping on the Banka coast are as follows : —

A vessel may carry a fair tide all the way through by stai-ting from either
extremity at low water, as the tidal waves from the China and Java Seas
meet near the Nangka Islands ; prominent hills and points, with a gradual
decrease in the soundings, give confidence to mariners when steering for the
land ; a strong land wind will be generally experienced during the night,
when the regular monsoon is blowing in the middle of the strait and near the
Sumatra coast ; and in the strength of the monsoon regular tides will be met
with on the Banka shore, while strong currents will invariably be found set-
ting to leeward along the Sumatra shore.

From the Soidhward — In working between Lalarie Point and the Nang-
ka Islands, the lead is a good guide, as the soundings decrease regularly,
except near Lalarie Point and the Timbaga Pocks, where they decrease
rather suddenly from a depth of 10 fathoms ; if, however, Lalarie Point is
not brought South of S.E. ^ S. until Brani Peak bears E. by N, | N., a ves-
sel will keep clear of all danger near the Timbaga Rocks. Having arrived
within 3 miles of the Great Nangka, the spit extending from the South end
of that island should not be approached under a depth of 7 fathoms ; and to
avoid the rocky ledges extending from Middle and West Nangka, West Eeef
(6 ft. above water, page 205), should not be brought to the westward of North
after the peak of Great Nangka bears N.E., until the vessel is to the north-
ward of the Nangka Group,

From the Nangka Islands to Tanjong Tadah the shore may be safely ap-
proached by the lead, as the soundings are shoal with a gradual decrease.
When Tanjong Tadah bears N.E. f N. (which clears the eastern side of the
Brom-Brom Eeef), vessels should cross over towards Fourth Point on the
Sumatra coast.

From the Northioard. — Coming from the northward, it is merely necessary
to reverse the order of the above directions. Vessels should keep towards
the Sumatra coast until past Fourth Point, which they should not approach
nearer than 3 miles. When Tanjong Tadah bears N.E. f N., they may cross
over to the Banka side, taking care not to bring that point to the eastward of
the above bearing. From Tanjong Tadah to the Nangka Islands they may
stand in-shore guided by the lead ; but having arrived abreast of the latter,
take care" not to bring West Eeef to the westward of North, until the peak of

224 NOETHERN COASTS OF BANKA.

Great Nangka Island bears N.E., and not approach the spit off the South
end of the island under 7 fathoms. From 2^- miles South of the Nangka
Islands the shore may be approached by the lead to any convenient depth of
water, but when Brani Peak bears E. by N. ^ N. the vessel will be nearing
the Timbaga Rocks, and must not then come under 10 fathoms. Lalarie
Point bearing S.E. | S. clears all the dangers near the Timbaga Pocks, and
the point should not be brought to the southward of that bearing until
Casuarina Point bears East. From thence to Lalarie Point the shore may
be again approached by the lead ; but when nearing the point the soundings
decrease more suddenly, and a vessel should not go into a less depth than
10 fathoms, and should round the point at the distance of about 1^^ mile.
From thence she can proceed to the southward through either the Stanton
or Lucipara Channels, according to the directions at pages 217 — 219 and 222.

NORTHEEN COASTS OF BANKA.

BTJLO, or Jibuse Bay. — The N.W. coast of Banka is 43 miles in extent,
from Tanjong Oelar to Tanjong Malalu, the bay of Bulo or Jibuse occupy-
ing more than half of that space. From Tanjong Biat (p. 212), the south-
western point of the bay, to Tanjong Ginting, its north-western point, the
direction is about N.E. f N., and the distance 17^ miles ; the depth of the
bay is 7 miles.

The whole of this bay is shallow to a distance of 3 miles from the shore,
except to the southward of Ginting Point, where the shoals do not appear to
extend farther than a quarter of a mile. The rivers Bulo and Jibuse disem-
bogue in its N.E. part. The bay is much visited by coasters, and occasion-
ally by larger vessels, for the purpose of loading tin.

The anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms, on soft muddy bottom, with Ginting
Point N. by E. J E., Songi Bulo E. i S., and the watering place N.E. by
E. 5 E. ; or in 5 fathoms off the Bulo River, with the village N.E. ^ E., and
Ginting Point N. by W. f W., 3 miles from the shore.

Water — Fresh water can be obtained in a small bay about li- mile to
the eastward of Tanjong Ginting. — Commander J. W. King, R.N., says it is
brackish.

TANJONG GINTING, the N. VV. point of Bulo Bay, is a long, low point,
having a reef projecting 2 miles from it, close to which are 8 fathoms water.
The position of the point may be easily recognized by the three hills, Paree,
Funyabung, and Jerankat, which at a great distance appear like islands. The
first, 858 ft. high, is the most southern one of the three, and rises 4 miles
East of the point ; Punyabung, a remarkable saddle-shaped hill, 794 feet
high, very conspicuous from seaward, rises close to the coast, about 3 milea

KLABAT BAY. 225

south-eastward of Ginting Puiut ; Jerankat, 657 ft. high, is about 4 miles
E.N.E. from Punyabung.

The Coast between Grinting Point and Punyabung Hill forms a small bay,
which appears to be nearly filled with rocks. It then trends E.N.E. about
18 miles to Tanjong Melalu. The whole coast between Punyabung Hill
and Tanjong Melalu is fronted by a reef which projects 1 or 2 miles from
the shore.

Malan Hyu, Malan Boyang, and Malan Guntur, are three rocks lying off the
coast between Tanjong Dugong and Tanji>ng Melalu. Malan Hyu is about
the size of a boat, and covered with white guano. It lies about 3 miles
North from Tanjong Dugong. Malan Doyang is not much above water, and
only the size of Malan Hyu. it lies about 3 miles off shore, with Punya-
bung Hill S.W. J S. Malan Guntur is nearly midway between Malan
Doyang and Tanjong Melalu, and about a mile off shore. It is larger
than the other two rocks, and lies within the limit of the shoal water pro-
jecting from the coast. All these rocks appear to be surrounded to a short
distance by sunken rocks ; and a sunken rock lies southward of Malan
Doyang, midway between it and the shore.

ZLABAT BAY.— Ta)iJo>ig Melalu, in lat. 1° 31^' S., long. 105° 38i' E., is
the western point of entrance of Klabat Bay, and upon it is a pretty high
hill, known as Mount Melalu. Here the N.W. coast of Banka terminates,
as the coast line on the other side of entrance of Klabat Bay trends to the
eastward, and forms the North shore of the island.

Klabat Bay runs up into Banka Island about 27 miles in a S.E. direction,
but being encumbered with many rocks and shoals, there is only a narrow
passage left, of 4 or 5 fathoms water, by which vessels of heavy burden pro-
ceed as far as the mouth of the Lyang Eiver. Over the inner end of the bay
hangs the highest of the Banka Mountains, called Gunong Marass, or Maradi.
This beautiful mountain is easily recognized by its three peaks, the summits
of which may often be seen when passing through Banka Strait, presenting
somewhat the appearance of a crown. The highest of the peaks, 2,320 it.
high, is in lat. 1° 61' S., and long. 105° 53' E.

Tanjong Penyusu, the eastern point of Klabat Bay, is a long, low projec-
tion, with an islet and some rocks extending nearly 2 miles from it.

Karang Trasseh Laout is a reef with only 2 or 3 fathoms water over it,
and 10 and 11 fathoms around it, lyiug about 3 miles N.W. J N. from Tan-
jong Punyusu. From the reef the West point of Punyusu Islet is in line
with the hill near Monkubur Point, bearing S.S.E., Moncudu Islet East, and
Mount Melalu S.W. by W. \ W.

Vessels coming to Klabat Bay for cargoes of tin, usually anchor outside
the entrance, between its eastern point and the Trassie Eeef, in 9 J or 10
fathoms, soft muddy bottom, having Punyusu Islet in line with Mount
I. A. 2 G

226 BANKA STEAIT.

Harass S.S.E. i E., Klabat Hill S.S.W. ^ W., Melalu Point W. by S. i S.,
and Moncudu Island E. J N.

The Coast from Tanjong Punyusu takes, with a slight curve inland, a
direction about E. by N. for 10 miles, to a point abreast of a small islet
named Fulo Moncudu; and from thence East for 2^ miles to Tanjong Crassok,
the northernmost point of Banka, in lat. 1° 29' S., long. 105° 56^' E. Many
rocks lie close to this part of the coast, and shoal water extends nearly a mile
from it. From Tanjong Crassok the coast trends to the south-eastward,
forming the N.E. coast of Banka.

A reef, having 2 fathoms water over it, lies about 2 miles off shore, with
Moncudu Islet bearing East, and Gunong Chundong S.E. ^ S. Eocks are
also marked on the chart, one at 3 miles E.S.E. from Tanjong Crassok, and
another at 2i miles farther to the south-eastward, and 1^ mile off shore.

( 227 )

CHAPTEE VI.

GASPAR STRAIT.

The channels between Banka and Lepar on the West and Billiton to east-
ward are collectively known as the Strait of Gaspar. Captain Huddart
says that the first ship which passed through was the Macclesfield galley,
Capt. Hurle, in March, 1702. This is the westernmost channel. The name
Gaspar is that of the Spanish commander from Manila, who passed through
it in 1724. Besides the first-named channel westward of Pulo Leat, there
is a second, called the Middle Pass, on the eastern side of that island. The
third is the Clements Channel, named after the Commodore of the homeward
bound English East India Fleet, in 1781, which passed through between,
the islets south-eastward of Pulo Leat ; and the fourth, the Stohe Channel,
to the eastward of these islets, is named after the Dutch officer who first
surveyed it. Of these the first and fourth are most used, as will be explained
presently.

Banka or Gaspar Strait ? — From the earliest times of our China commerce
Gaspar Strait has been preferred to Banka Strait, by ships coming from
China. But it is of much more dangerous approach, both from North and
South, and the new and excellent Stanton Channel in the latter may lead
to a preference being given to it. Upon this subject the following is given
in the China Sea Pilot.

Banka Strait possesses unquestionable advantages over those of Gaspar
and Carimata, and is without doubt the best and safest route into the China
Sea. Although of much greater length, and not so direct for vessels bound
to China as Gaspar Strait, yet it is manifestly superior to that strait ; for it
is easy and safe of approach. It affords convenient anchorage in every part,
which enables vessels to avail themselves of favourable winds and tides ; and
it leads into a part of the China Sea free from danger. Gaspar Strait, on
the contrary, is difficult and dangerous of approach, rocks and shoals ex-
tending for 35 miles to the southward. The depths of water are too great to
afford convenient anchorage ; and it conducts into a part of the China Sea

228 GASPAR STEAIT.

very imperfectly explored, and abounding with hidden dangers, amongst
■which vessels are liable to be set by uncertain currents. No serious accident
has occurred within the last few years to vessels passing through Banka
Strait ; whereas many fine ships, with valuable cargoes, have been lost in or
near Gaspar Strait.

For vessels proceeding to Singapore there can be no doubt that Banka
Strait is in all respects to be preferred, and it has in fact become the recog-
nized highway of the trade passing between Sunda Strait or Batavia, and
Singapore. But for ships to China, Gaspar Strait being shorter and more
direct, is still preferred, and will no doubt continue to be by many navi-
gators, especially those who are anxious to make quick passages, even at
the expense of incurring additional risk. It is certain that a vessel arriving
off the entrance of Banka or Gaspar Strait in the morning, and favoured
with a commanding breeze, would gain some advantage in point of time by
passing through the latter ; but in calms and light airs, or against the N.E.
monsoon, there is good reason to believe that vessels will make quick, and
often quicker passages, by proceeding through Banka Strait, and they will
always be assured of much greater safety. In thick or bad weather, it is
possible to proceed through Banka Strait without risk ; but Gaspar Strait
can never be approached at such times without incurring considerable
danger.

The fast clipper ships, which every season contend for the honour of land-
ing the first of the year's teas in England, usually proceed through Gaspar
Strait, as do most homeward-bound ships, to whom saving of time is of the
first importance, and there can be no doubt but they will continue to do so
in preference to the more circuitous, although much safer, route of Banka
Strait. Until, however, the correct positions of the shoals and dangers
known to exist to the northward of Gaspar Strait are determined, and this
space properly explored, vessels must keep a vigilant lookout when ap-
proaching the strait from the northward, and be prepared for the possibility
of meeting with some danger not marked on the charts. Nor must they
relax their vigilance when getting near to Pulo Leat, and when passing
through the strait. No opportunity should be lost of determining the ship's
exact position ; and the greatest attention should be paid to ascertaining the
Bet of the current, and to guard against its effects. Many fine ships have
been lost in Gaspar Strait — not a few on the Alceste Eeef, from wrongly
estimating their distance from the land ; but in the majority of instances
from causes which might have been guarded against by the exercise of due
care and judgment.

Gaspar Strait was surveyed in 1854 by the officers of the United States
Navy attached to an exploring expedition.

The territory on either side of the strait being in possession of the Dutch,
the names in strict propriety should be in accordance with that orthography.

DANGEES SOUTH WAED OF GASPAR STRAIT. 229

But as the strait is a common highway for the whole world, only those names
which might be otherwise ambiguous will be thus denoted.

BILIITON ISLAND, or in Malay Blitung, is only one-half the size of
Banka, but it resembles it in its geographical structure and in the produc-
tion of tin, which is worked by a Dutch company. This is the south-eastern-
most extremity of the mining fields for this important metal, the northern-
most being at Tavoy, on the Tenasserim coast, a range of 20 degrees of
latitude.

The following description of and directions for the strait are taken from
the China Sea Pilot.

DANGERS SOUTHWARD OF GASPAR STRAIT.

Dangerous shoals extend for about 35 miles to the southward of Gaspar
Strait, rendering great caution necessary when approaching the strait from
that direction.*

Sharpshooter Shoal. — The British merchant ship Belted Will, Captain
Alexander Locke, in July, 1869, during her passage from Canton to London,
slightly touched on a shoal patch lying S. |^ E., 34 miles from entrance point
in Gaspar Strait. The ship was going 9 knots at the time, but the state of
the weather, occasioned by the monsoon blowing very strong, prevented an
examination of the danger beyond two casts of 9 fathoms, which were ob-
tained shortl}' after the shoal was passed. Observations obtained on the
same day, as well as the reckoning carried from Entrance point, place this
patch in lat. 3° 3o' 35" S., long. 106'^ 56' E.

Near this position the Sharpshooter Shoal, of 12 ft. water, and lying 12
miles W. f S. from the Hancock Shoal, was unsuccessfully searched for by
Staff Commander Edward Wilds of H.M.S. Sivallow, in 1866. It is pro-
bably the same danger, and the name has therefore been retained on the
charts.

HANCOCK SHOAL, in lat. 3^ 34i' S., long. 107° 4' E., is a small patch
about a quarter of a mile in extent, but whether composed of sand or coral
does not aj)pear on the chart. It has only 1 fathom of water over it, and 6
to 7 fathoms around it.

HIPPOGRIFFE SHOAL was so named after an American ship lost on it.
Mr. Wilds, R.N., in H.M.S. SwaUoiv, searched for the Hippogriffe Shoal,
and found it in lat. 3° 23' 36" S., long. 106° 54' 30" E. It is a dangerous

* Doubtful Dangers. — A doubtful rock was marked in former charts at 3f miles S.W.
by W. 5 W. of the Hancock Shoal ; a small shoal of 6 feet water, named Mary Goddard,
at 4^ miles S.S.E. of the Hancock ; but a careful search having been made for these dan-
gers in May, 1866, by Mr. Wild-, Master commanding H.M. surveying-vessel Stcallow,
without the slightest indication of their existence, thej' have been expunged from the
chiirts.

230 GASPAR STRAIT.

boulder rock, with only 3 ft. over it at low water, of circular shape, and
about 150 ft. in diameter, having large branches of coral upon it. It was
not seen until close to, and at the time it was examined there was not the
slightest swell or ripple to indicate its position ; the weather being fine and
clear, and the wind light from the S.S.E. Regular soundings of 8 fathoms,
sand and shell, were found around it, and the water in that depth was of a
pale colour.

TURTLE SHOAL lies about 2 miles N.E. by E. from the Hancock Shoal,
and is of about the same extent ; it has but 3 ft. water over it, and 8 to 12
fathoms around it. There are tide ripples over this shoal.

LARABE SHOAL, in lat. 3° 33' S., long. 107° 10' E., and distant nearly
6 miles E. by N. | N. from the Hancock Shoal, is about a third of a mile in
extent, having 3^ fathoms of water over it, and 5 to 8 fathoms around it.

SAND ISLAND is the name given to a small patch of sand, just awash at
high water, with 8 to 14 fathoms water around it, lying about 4 miles
northward of the Larabe Shoal, in lat. 3° 29' S., long. 107° 9' E. At a mile
E.N.E. from Sand Island is a shoal patch about a third of a mile in extent,
having 2^ fathoms water over it, and 8 to 9 fathoms around it ; the tide also
ripples over this bank.

There is a danger, named Padang Reef, marked on the chart about 2 J miles
W. ^ N. of Sand Island, but we have no information about it.

MIDDLE REEF, lying N.N.E. | E. nearly 2^ miles from Sand Island^
appears to be a rock, just above water, on the North end of a small sand
patch having 2 fathoms water over it, and 8 to 9 fathoms around it. '

BRANDING SHOAL {BreaUng, Dutch).— North-west, nearly If mile from
Middle Reef, are two small patches occupying a space about two-thirds of a
mile in extent, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and with 12 fathoms water between
them. The western patch has 1 \ fathom water over it, the eastern one only
3 ft. ; all around them are 7 or 8 fathoms.

FAIRLIE ROCK, in lat. 3° 27}' S., long. 106° 59' E., was discovered
by the East India Coinpany's ship of that name grounding upon it in 1813.
It is of coral, about a cable's length in diameter, nearly awash at low water,
and 6 or 7 fathoms close around it. The sea breaks over the rock, and all
around are overfalls caused by the rocky and uneven character of the bottom.
From it Entrance Point, the south-eastern extreme of Pulo Lepar, bears
N. by W. h W., distant 26^ miles, and Shoal-water Island N.E. by E. 15
miles, and just in sight from the deck of a large ship ; therefore, to avoid
this rock, Shoal-water Island must, from the deck of a large ship, be sunk
below the horizon by the time it bears N.E. by E., this island being the only
land distinctly visible from the rock.

SHOAL-WATER ISLAND and SHOALS form a group amongst which it
would not be prudent to venture. Shoal-water or EinUeton Island, in lat.
3° 19i' S., long. 107" llf E., is a little more than half a mile in diameter,

BLAS MATEU EOCK. 231

and from it Middle Eeef bears S. f W., distant 8 miles. Hancock is a
small islet, lying N.E. ^ N., three-quarters of a mile from Shoal-water
Island.

Dangerous reefs surround both these islands, among which are some deep
but very narrow and intricate channels. From Shoal-water Island a reef
extends from half to three-quarters of a mile, on its S.E., South, and S. W.
sides ; and about half a mile off its West side is a small detached reef, having
10 fathoms between it and the reef bordering that side of the island. Off its
East side reefs extend nearly 1^ mile. The reefs surrounding Hancock
Island are separated from those around Shoal-water Island by a very narrow
channel, with depths of 6 to 10 fathoms on it. On the N.E. side of Hancock
the reef extends about a third of a mile, and on its N.W. side about three-
quarters of a mile, with some rocks above water on its outer edge.

One-fathom Patch. — A patch having but 1 fathom water over it, and 7 to
9 fathoms around it, lies W. J N. nearly 2 miles from Shoal- water Island.

Embleton Rock is just above water on the N.W. extreme of a bank of hard
sand, which nearly dries, distant 2 miles N.N.W. f W. from Shoal-water
Island; there are 12 to 14 fathoms around it.

Bliss Shoal, lying N.E. by E. nearly a mile from Embleton Eock, and
N. f W. 2i miles from Shoal-water Island, is about a third of a mile in ex-
tent, N.W. and S.E. ; it has only a quarter of a fathom water over it, and 6
to 14 fathoms at a short distance from it.

There appear to be no dangers between the reefs contiguous to Shoal-
water and Hancock Islands, or between One-fathom Patch, Embleton Eock,
and Bliss Shoal, the soundings being from 6 to 14 fathoms ; but vessels had
better keep well outside, as there is nothing to be gained by venturing among
those dangers.

BLAS MATEU ROCK is said to lie right in the fairway track of vessels
proceeding through Gaspar Strait by the Macclesfield Channel. The American
surveyors searched for it without success, but their chart does not exhibit
many soundings in that vicinity, and it would be very unsafe to disregard
its reputed existence in the face of the following circumstantial account : —
The Bias Eock was first discovered on September 23, 1839, by the Spanish
brig San Joaehim, Captain Bias Mateu. Having anchored in 12 fathoms,
coarse sand, he took the boat and found three rocks, each about 10 ft. in
diameter. Upon the northei*n rock he had 9 ft., on the southern 12 ft., and
on the western 17 ft. water, and between them passages of 4^ fathoms.
Shoal-water Island bore E. \ N., the opening between the two hill on
Lepar Island N.N.W. ^ W., and the latitude determined by the sun's meri-
dian altitude 3° 20' 38" S. The whole extent of the three rocks is about half
a cable's length, and round them the depths were 12, 13, and 14 fathoms;
but there was reason to believe that there were more rocks, because the chain
parted while the anchor was being weighed.

232 GASPAE STRAIT.

Another Spanish captain, M Aldon, who examined these rocks afterwards,
gives them a similar description, and states that the light colour of the water
over them was distinctly visible at a considerable distance N.N.W. of them.
He places them in 3° 21' S., with Fairlie Rock S.S.E. % E., Shoal-water
Island East, and the hills of Lepar Island N.N.W,

To avoid this danger, Entrance Point must not be brought more to the
westward than N. ^ W., when Shoal-water Island bears between E. ^ S. and
E. i N.

Sand Banks. — At 12 miles South of Entrance Point is a patch of 5 fathoms ;
and at 2^ miles W. ^ S. of this is another of the same depth ; between them
the depth is 7 fathoms. These spots appear to be on the eastern end of one
of the long sand ridges which lie to the southward of Banka (page 200),
probably an extension of the strip upon which is shown the following
sounding of 4^ fathoms.

A Bank, in 3° 19' S., with 4^ fathoms water, lies South from a remarkable
hummock in Banka ; and there are two other banks of 5 fathoms, from
which a hummock upon the low long point of Baginda bears N.N.W. i W,
To avoid these banks, the low land which unites the hills of Banka, must be
kept from a vessel's deck below the horizon, till Entrance Point bears N. by W.,
when a vessel may steer towards the strait ; taking care not to bring thia
point more to the northward than N. by W. or N. ^ W.

VANSITTART SHOALS are a collection of rocky patches divided into
groups, lying between the bearings of S.E. ^ E. and E. f S., distant about
12 miles from Entrance Point, and extending from lat. 3° 10' to 3*^ 4' S. At
their southern part are two patches, lying E. ^ S. and W. ^ N. from each
other, their inner edges being about 2^ miles, and their outer edges nearly
3^ miles apart. From the western patch of 1^ fathom water, Entrance
Point bears N.W. i W. 12 miles. Shoal- water Island S.E. i E. 14 miles,
and Barn Island N.N.E. J E. 12 miles ; from the eastern patch of only 3 ft.
water, Shoal- water Island bears S.E. J S. 11^ miles, and Barn Island
N. by E. iE. U miles.

Nearly the centre of the space occupied by these shoals are a group of
patches extending N.E. and S.W. about a mile, some having but 1 fathom
over them, and one patch, the north-eastern, dries at low water.

The patches at the northern end of the shoals lie close together, and
extend in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, about 2^ miles. One or two of
thorn are dry, and others have but 3 ft. water over theoi at low tides. Erooi
the S.W. patch, which dries. Barn Island bears N.N.E. h E., distant 6^
miles ; the South extreme of Saddle Island is open of the South extreme of
Low Island, N.E. by E. i E. ; and Pulo Jelaka bears N. by W. f W. 13
miles. From the N.E. patch, of 2 fathoms water. Low Island is distant 2-J
miles, with its South extreme in line with the middle of Saddle Island, bear-

GEORGE B/VNKS. 233

ing N.E. by E. ; and Sand Island is just open of the East extreme of Piilo
Leat, bearing N. ^ "W.

The marks to clear the Vansittart Shoals are given hereafter.

GEORGE BANKS is the name given, on the American chart, to four or
five patches, under a depth of 5 fathoms, lying southward and south-westward
of the western Entrance Point. The southern extreme of one of these patches,
which is about H mile long North and South, half a mile broad, and has 3
fathoms water on it, lies S.W. § W. 4 miles from Entrance Point. About a
mile S.W. of this patch is another, but smaller one, of 3J fathoms water ;
and 5 miles S.W. by W. i W. from this last patch, or S.W. i W. 9 miles
from Entrance Point, is a patch ot 3J fathoms water, but this latter lies
quite out of the ordinary track of vessels. All these patches lie within the
edge of the 10-fathoms line, which, passing Entrance Point about Ij mile oj6F,
runs with an irregularly curved outline to the south-westward.

A bank, under a depth of 10 fathoms, 9 or 10 miles long, which assumes
on the chart the form of a shoulder of mutton, N.E. and S.W., with its
small end to the north-eastward, lies nearly 2 miles outside the 10-fathoms
line extending from Pulo Lepar. Between it and the shore banks the depths
are 13 to 17 fathoms.

Two-and-a-half Fathoms Bank. — ^About the middle of the above shoulder
of mutton bank, and about a mile from its eastern or outer edge, is a patch
of only 2 1 fathoms water. This was formerly known as the George Bank,
because the ship Royal George had, in 1813, passed over its edge in 5^
fathoms. It was afterwards explored by Capt. D. Eoss. From it Entrance
Point bears N. \ W., distant 6| miles ; and Baginda Peak, on Banka Island,
W. by N. I N., 121 miles. To avoid this bank, keep the high trees near
Klippige Point, or Eocky Point Hill, open to the eastward of Entrance
Point.

About 2 miles West of the 2^-fathom8 bank is a small patch with 5
fathoms water over it.

Two-fathoms Patch. — It would appear from the following report of Capt.
Keay, of the ship Falcon, March 13th, 1862, that a patch having but 2
fathoms water over it, lies about 3 miles to the southward of Round Island,
off the South point of Pulo Lepar : —

Clear, light, northerly, and smooth sea ; steering towards Entrance Point,
Caspar Strait ; Round Island bearing N. ^ W. by compass,' apparently 3
miles distant, the Falcon drawing 18 ft., ran aground on a small sand patch,
with 12 ft. least water over it, the diameter of the shallowest part being
about 30 ft. The position of this was not properly ascertained by cross-
bearings, but it seems as if it was not one of the previously known shoals off
the entrance of the Lepar Strait.

I. A. 2»

234 GASPAE STEAIT.

MACCLESFIELD CHANNEL.

The approacli to the Macclesfield Channel, the westernmost of those
through Gaspar Strait from the southward, is bounded on the eastern side
by the Hippogriffe Shoal, the position of the Doubtful dangers (page 229),
the Fairlie Rock, and the Vansittart Shoals ; and on the western side by the
outermopt of the George Banks. The Bias Mateu Eock, if it exists, lies
right in the fairway.

The Sharpshooter, Hancock, and Turtle Shoals, may be said to form a
point, from which the shoals already mentioned as bounding the eastern
limit of approach to Macclesfield Channel diverge in one direction, whilst
those forming the western limit of approach to Stolze and Clements Channel
diverge in another ; these last may also be said to form the eastern limits of
the southern entrance to Macclesfield Channel, as vessels may stand to the
eastward of the Fairlie Eock over towards them, if they should find it con-
venient to do so.

EAST COAST of BANKA.— From Tanjong Baginda (page 199), th&
south-western limit of Gaspar Strait, the coast of Banka turns sharp to the
northward, and after running 4 miles in a northerly direction, forms a large
bay, the northern limit of which is Brekat Point, which is also the north-
western limit of Gaspar Strait. There are several rivers upon this part of
the coast, the principal of which, the Medang, is sometimes visited by coasters,
but little is known of it.

LEPAR STRAIT, between Banka and Pulo Lepar, is 6 or 7 miles wide
at the entrance, but narrows to less than 2 miles some 4 or 5 miles within.
The entrance appears from the chart to be barred, although there seems to
be deep water inside. It is said to be so crowded with small islands and
reefs, as to be available only for small coasters. The most southern of these
islands, named ISugar-loaf, is very conspicuous, rising to a peak 650 ft. high.

PULO LEPAR is an irregularly shaped island, about 12 miles in diameter,
lying close off the southern part of the East coast of Banka. On its southern
part are several ranges of hills of moderate elevation, viz : Six Peak Ranges
781 ft. high; Maroon Rill, 850 ft. ; Four Peah Range, 750 ft. ; and two hiUs
not named on the chart, 650 ft. high ; further to the westward is a hill, 700
feet high, named False Sugar-loaf.

Entrance Point, the south-eastern extreme of the island, is in lat. 3° 1|' S.,
long. 106° 53' E. The land over it is hilly, and the point is bordered by a
reef, extending 1 or 2 cables' lengths from it. Per gam or Round Island is a
small islet surrounded by reefs, lying W.S.W. 2| miles from Entrance Point,
and ab lut half a mile off the South coast of the island. False Rocky Point
bears N. f E., distant 4 miles from Entrance Point. Immediately to the
northward of it is a small stream named Eed Eiver.

PULO LE-iT AND LTGHTnOUSE. 235

Rocky Point and Light. — Tmyong Lahoe, Klippige, or Rocky Point, the
N.E. extreme of Pulo Lepar, is distant 1^ mile N. ^ E, from False Rocky
Point. Eocky Point Hill, 622 ft. high, stands If mile to the westward of
the point. The light on Rocky Point was first shown in October, 1870. It
is affixed hright light, elevated 39 ft., and visible in every direction seaward 8
miles off.

At 1| mile N.W. f W. from the lighthouse is Tree Point, from which the
coast runs nearly straight to the north-westward for about 6 miles.

Shore Reef. — The whole coast from Entrance Point to Tree Point is fronted
by a reef, which at about 2 miles northward of Entrance Point, just to the
southward of the entrance of Fresh-water River, extends ofi' to the distance
of 1^ mile; it then runs nearly straight to the northward, and rounding Rocky
Point at a quarter of a mile, turns to the north-westward, and beyond Tree
Point projects but a short distance from the shore.

Water. — To the northward of Entrance Point the coast forms a bay, in
which are two small rivers. Vessels may anchor about a mile to the north-
eastward of the point, abreast of which position is a sandy beach. Captain
Ross watered here, and found the water a little tinged with a red colour, but
it produced no pernicious effect upon the crew.

KLIPPIGE SHOALS is the name given to three or four reefs, with rooks
above water on them, and deep channels between them, lying off Rocky
Point. The outer reef lies E. by N. | N. 2 miles from the point ; the
southern reef, over which is a depth of 4 fathoms, lies E. i N., 2 miles from
False Rocky Point.

Close to these shoals are depths varying from 9 to 14 fathoms, and there
appears to be a channel three-quarters of a mile wide, with 6 to 10 fathoms
in it, between them and the shore, but it would be a very unwise proceeding
for vessels to venture to use it.

Discovery Rocks appear on the American chart as two rocks lying N.N.E.
^ E. 3f miles from Rocky Point, with a shoal bank extending nearly half a
mile north-eastward of them. Close to the rocks and bank are 6 to 10
fathoms, with 13 to 15 fathoms at a short distance all around them.

Capt. D. Ross, in the Discovery, was the first to determine the exact posi-
tion of these rocks, and he says they have only 2 ft. least water over them.

A rocky Patch, with only 3 ft. water over it, lies about l^ mile W. by S.
from the Discovery Rocks. In the channel between the soundings are from
10 to 16 fathoms.

There is also a 4-fathom patch lying midway between Rocky Point and the
rocky patch, and a 4|-fathom bank 3^ miles N by W. from Rocky Point.

PULO LEAT, or Middle Island, which separates Macclesfield Channel from
Clements Channel, is about 5f miles long. North and South, and 4J miles
wide. Upon it are several hills, 400 to 600 ft. high, which appear at a
distance like a group of islands.

236 GASPAR STRAIT.

LIGHT. — Pulo Jelaka is a small islet lying about a quarter of a mile north-
westward of the West point of Pulo Leat, to which it is connected by a reef
of rocks. Since the year 1870 a. fixed hright light has been shown from Pulo
Jelaka over the Macclesfield Channel to the westward from N.E. by N.
round by North and West to S.S.E. It is elevated 39 ft., and visible 8
miles off. A dangerous reef surrounds both Pulo Leat and Pulo Jelaka, in
addition to which are numerous outlying rocks, in many places extending
far from the shore.

The South and S.W. coasts of Pulo Leat are fronted by a reef which pro-
jects from the shore in a convex form to seaward for the distance of a mile.
Off the S.E. point of the island are outlying rocks and dangers extending in
a S. by W. \ W. direction, to the distance of nearly 2J miles. A rock also
lies about three-quarters of a mile South of Jelaka, just outside the edge of
the reef extending from the shore, but there are no other outlying reefs on
the S.W. coast of the island.

When three-quarters of a mile distant from Jelaka, outside the reef ex-
tending from the shore, is a 3-fathoms patch ; and N.W. by W., more than
a mile from that islet, is a rock near the water's edge, with 11 fathoms
water between it and the shore reef. All along the N.W. shore of Pulo
Leat, and at little less than 2 miles from it, are numerous outlying rocks and
patches of reef, between which and the reef extending from the shore are
some dry sand-banks.*'

ALCESTE REEF.— The Alceste Rock, upon which H.M. ship of that name
was wrecked in February, 1817, when returning from China with Lord Am-
herst and suite, is the outer patch of a coral reef which projects N.N.W.
nearly 2 miles from the North point of Pulo Leat, and has but 2 fathoms
water on its shallowest part. It is the same reef upon which, in 1816, the
Portuguese ship Amelia was wrecked, the remains of both her and the
Alceste being still visible, with only a few yards between them, at the time
the reef was surveyed by Captain D. Ross. The wreck of the Alcede was
lying li mile from the North point of Leat, with the West point of Jelaka
in one with the southern sand-bank West of Leat ; the northern sand-bank
in one with a white rock which lies between Jelaka and the N.W. point of
Leat and close to it ; and a white rock near the N.W. point open to the east-
ward of a high tree on the centre of the eastern hill of Leat.

Many ships have since been lost on this reef, or on some of the coral
patches contiguous to it, and they have generally furnished bearings which

* Captain Joass, of the British ship Lammermuir, reports that at 2*^ 20™ a.m., December
Slst, 1863, when proceeding through the Macclesfield Channel, his vessel struck on a rock,
the position of which, from bearings taken, is lat. 2° 53' S., long. 107° E. H.M.S. Rifleman
has since searched for this rock, but could find no danger in the vicinity of the position
ascribed to it.

KILArAN AND SENIOE. 237

would show them to have been wrecked some distance from these dangers;
but the wrecks of several of them have afterwards been found upon, or close
to the Alceste Reef ; and two such wrecks, the Cornelius Haja^ and the Mem-
71071, have found a place on the American chart. There is good reason to be-
lieve that there is no danger in the fairway of the Macclesfied Channel in this
vicinity.

A reef ia placed by Dutch authorities 2 miles E. by N. from Alceste Eeef,
with only 6 ft. water. From a position three-quarters of a cable northward
of the shoal, the northern point of Pulo Leat bears S.W., and the eastern
point of Bulo Anak, or Selagin, S. by E. ^ E.

The soundings round Alceste Eeef do not by any means afford a certain
guide, although to the north-eastward they appear to be a few fathoms shoaler
than elsewhere. Close-to on the West side are 17 fathoms, and from 15 to
21 fathoms at the distance of 1 or 2 miles ; close-to on the North side 12 fa-
thoms, with 16 to 18 fathoms at 1 or 2 miles ; and close-to on the N.E. side
16 fathoms, with 12 to 17 fathoms at 1 to 2 miles. f

KILAPAN and SENIOR are two hilly islands lying 2 or 3 miles North of
Pulo Lepar. Kilapan is about 1^ mile in extent East and West, and a mile
wide, and bears from Eocky Point light, N.W. by N. 6| miles. Senior
is not quite so large as Kilapan, from which it bears W. by N. 2 miles.

Wilson Bank, discovered by Captain Lestock Wilson, of the Carnatic, in
February, 1787, has but 1 fathom water on its shoalest spot, although Capt.
Wilson did not find less than 3 fathoms. From the 1 -fathom spot the ex-
treme of Brekat Point, the N.W. point of Macclesfield Strait, bears N.N. W.
\ W. 6| miles ; the hummock just inside the point, which is more conspicuous,
bearing N.W. by N. The bank extends about a mile to the northward of
the shoal patch, having 2f fathoms over that part of it ; to the southward it
extends about a quarter of a ndle. Close-to on the East side are 13 or 14
fathoms, but to the N.N.E. 8 to 10 fathoms for about If mile, when the depths
suddenly increase to 19 or 20 fathoms. The extreme of Brekat Point bearing

* This vessel was reported to have struck on a rock in lat. 2° 441' S., long. 107° 1' E.—
Horsburgh.

t The barque Carl Eonneberg, Captain C. L. Lied, is reported to have struck upon a rock
about 6 miles to the northward of the Alceste Eeef, in lat. 2"^ 42' S., long. 107° 5' E. It is
said to be about a cable's length in circumference, having from 4 to 20 ft. water on it, and
surrounded by depths of 19 fathoms. The American chart exhibits many soundings in the
locality ascribed to this danger, which were obtained in searching for the rock on which the
Cornelius Eaja was reported to have been wrecked, said to lie W.S.W., distant 4 miles
from the reported position of the Lied Rock. llr. Richards, in H.M.S. Saracen, also
searched for the Cornelius Haja Rock without discovering any danger in that locality : for
these reasons the Lied Rock is not placed upon the Admiralty charts, and the wreck of
the Cornelius Haja (as mentioned above) was subsequently found by the American surveyors
upon the Alceste Reef.

238 GASPAR STEAIT.

N.W. by N., or the hill over it N.W., leads a mile outside Wilson Bank, as
does also the eastern extreme of Kilapan Island, bearing S. by W. I W.
The same bearings also clear the elbow of Brekat Bank.

Brekat Bank. — A long, narrow strip of bank, which appears to have from
3 to 4 fathoms water over it, and deeper water inside of it, runs in a S. by W.
direction for 3 or 4 miles to the southward of Wilson Bank, and, passing
about li mile westward of that shoal, forms to the northward, about a mile
farther on, an elbow projecting to seaward, with Ij fathom water on it, and
a small patch which dries at low water ; it then takes a N. by W. ^ W.
direction, until it joins the bank extending from Brekat Point, which bears
from the elbow N.N.W., distant 4 miles.

The soundings in the channel between Brekat and Wilson Banks are 4^
to 8 fathoms. Near the elbow they decrease suddenly from 10 fathoms;
there are 9 or 10 fathoms at 2^ miles eastward of the elbow, and 12 and 15
fathoms at a mile N.E. of it.

BREKAT POINT, in lat. 2° 34' S., long. 106° 50' E., has a rock off it 28
feet high, and forms the eastern extreme of Banka, and the north-western
limit of G-aspar Strait. The land from the inner part of the projecting point
falls away to the southward, and has a hill or hummock 620 ft. high upon
it. Immediately off the point are some rocks, and shoal water extends
nearly a mile from it to the eastward. The point should not be approached
nearer than 2 miles, the soundings off it being deep and irregular, 14 to 21
fathoms.

AKBAE SHOAL. — The American ship Akhar struck, in 1843, upon a shoal
having only 12 ft. water upon it, in lat. 2° 39' S., long. 107° 11' E. In the
American chart the position of this shoal is marked doubtful, so that the
American surveyors did not succeed in finding it.

The ship Scaivfell reports that, on March 23rd, 1864, she passed close to
the Akbar Shoal, which had apparently very little water on it, though no
breakers, as the sea was quite smooth. It appeared to be a narrow ridge of
coral, about 2 cables long, North and South, and not half a cable wide. Its
position is given as 2° 38' S., long. 107° 13^' E.

This places the shoal 3 miles N.E. by E. from the position ascribed to it
by the Akhar ; in either case it is much in the way of vessels proceeding
through Clements or Stolze Channels, and until its exact position is deter-
mined, it will be necessary to keep clear of the localities in which it is re-
puted to lie.

TREE ISLAND [Bootnpjes Mland), distant 10 miles N.E. | E. from Brekat
Point, and 7 miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Gaspar Island, is a barren rock,
40 ft. high, with two or three trees on the summit, giving it the appearance
of a ship under sail, and making it visible 15 miles off. It is surrounded
by a coral reef, and a rock about as high as a boat lies a third of a mile
south-eastward of it. There is a cave upon this island where the Mahiys

GASPAE ISLAND—TIDES AND CUEEENTS. 239

come to collect birds' nests, which are probably found also on the other
islands.

A detached coral reef lies more than half a mile N.E. of the island, and
another about the same distance S.E. of it ; between these reefs and the one
surrounding the island are narrow channels, with deep water.

GASPAR ISLAND, or Pulo Gelassa, in lat. 2° 24|' S., long. 107° 3J' E.,
bears N. \ E. 24^ miles from the North point of Pulo Leat, and N.E. | E.
nearly 17 miles from Brekat Point. Its centre rises to a peak 812 ft. high,
which may be seen in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles, and is the
principal mark for avoiding the shoals in sailing to or from the northern
part of the strait. It is nearly surrounded by a reef, which projects from
the South and East points of the island about a third of a mile. The West
and North points are bold close-to. The soundings near the island are
variable, 12 to 19 fathoms.

Fresh water is to be found upon this island, but the chart does not point
out the particular spot where it may be obtained.

Glassa or Gelassa Rock, 24 ft. high, with some trees on it, and rocks^
contiguous to it, lies about a mile westward of Gaspar Island. It is sur-
rounded by a reef extending about a third of a mile south-eastward and
eastward from it, but not quite so far in other directions.

Gaspar Island, Glassa Eock, and Tree Island, form the northern limit of
Gaspar Strait. The Canning Eock, Warren Hastings Eeef, Belvidere Shoals,
and other dangers, are described hereafter.

TIDES and CURRENTS.— It is high water, full and change, in the Mac-
clesfield Channel, at 2^ 30'", and the ordinary rise is only 4 ft. The Vmi-
sittarth boat is roperted to have found at Tree Island a perpendicular rise of
18 it., between the hours of 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; but there is probably some
mistake in this, as 12 ft. is an extraordinary rise in Banka Strait, into which
some very large rivers disembogue.

The currents greatly depend upon the strength of the monsoon. When*
the monsoon is strong, the current will generally be found setting in the-
same direction at the rate of 2 or 3 knots an hour, but aflFected somewhat by
the tides. In light winds and calms the tides are seldom very regular.

Directions from the Southward. — Proceeding towards the Macclesfield
Channel during the S.E. monsoon, having passed the Two Brothers (^p. 185),
steer N. by E. J E., or N.N.E., keeping midway between the Clifton Shoal
and tlie Brouwers Eeefs. The depths in this track are pretty regular, 10 tO'
15 fathoms, soft bottom. In thick weather, or if uncertain of the vessel's
position, the entrance of Gaspar Strait should be approached with great
caution, keeping a good lookout for broken or shoal water.

Be also guarded when in the vicinity of the Bias Mateu Eock, for although
the American surveyors could not find that danger, yet, for reasons given at
p. 231, it would be unsafe to conclude that it does not exist. The Six-peak

240 GASPAR STRAIT.

range (the first clump of hills to the westward of Entrance Point) kept
N. by W., will lead 3 miles westward of this rock, and when Baginda Peak
bear N.W. ^ N., and the water has deepened from 8 or 9 to 11 or 15
fathoms, steer to the north-eastward until the highest trees on Klippige or
Eocky Point, or Rocky Point Hill, are well open of Entrance Point, which
will lead clear of the 2^-fathom bank.

Being 3 or 4 miles to the northward of the Bias Mateu Rock, a N. i^ E.
course — guarding against currents — for 14 miles, will lead about 5 miles
eastward of Entrance Point, and in this track the depths Avill be 13 to 18
fathoms ; if the vessel gets too far to the eastward the water will deepen,
and if to the westward, it will shoal to 12, 11, or 9 fathoms. Prom 5 miles
eastward of Entrance Point, a North course for about 16 miles will lead
nearly midway between the shoals West of Jelaka and the Discovery Rocks.
In this track there will be from 14 to 25 fathoms till abreast of Klippige or
Rocky Point, when there will be 23 or 24 fathoms, deepening to 30 or 33
fathoms between Pulo Jelaka and the Discovery Rocks, having passed which
they will decrease to 25, 19, and 16 fathoms. The vessel will now have
arrived in a position with Pulo Kilapan bearing S.W. by W., and the
North point of Pulo Leat S.E. by E., and may steer N. by E. ^ E. for
Gaspar Island, in which track she will have 16 to 21 fathoms.

Since the survey of the sandbanks South of Banka by Mr. Stanton, it no
longer appears dangerous to approach the coast to a less distance than 14
miles, and it might be convenient for a vessel to make Entrance Point on a
N. by E. or N.N.E. bearing, and pass inside the 2^-fathom bank by keeping
Klippige and Entrance Points in line.

To work through from the Southward. — During the northern monsoon it is
very difficult, almost impossible, to work through Gaspar Strait, even in the
latter part of the monsoon, about March, when vessels are obliged to an-
chor often on account of the faintness of the wind and the rapidity of the
southerly current. In the southern monsoon vessels will often meet with
light, variable winds, rendering it impossible for them to preserve a straight
course.

Macclesfield Channel does not afford convenient objects as marks to keep
vessels clear of danger, but the following have been taken from the Ameri-
can chart as being, so far as we are able to judge, the best that can be given
for that purpose ; as, however, some of the objects are at a considerable
distance from the dangers, navigators are cautioned not to depend too im-
plicitly upon having made out, or being able to make out, such distant
objects, but rather to rely upon a more general exercise of judgment, paying
attention to the soundings, frequently referring to the chart, «S:c. It is indis-
pensable that the greatest vigilance be observed, and careful regard had to
the set of the tides and currents, in order to work a vessel safely through
this dangerous channel.

MACCLESFIELD CHANNEL. 2il

Standing to the eastward. — A vessel having passed eastward of the Fairlie
Eoek may stand on, keeping a good lookout, until she is about 2^ miles
from Sand Island, or 1 mile from Branding Breakers, and will have from
13 to 7 fathoms water. Sand Island is just awash at high water, and Shoal-
water Island, bearing N.N.E. i E., leads a mile to the westward of the
Branding Breakers. Shoal-water Island should not be approached nearer
than o miles, on account of the 1 -fathom patch lying about 2 miles westward
of it.

The Java Guide gives the following directions to clear the Vansittart
Shoals : —

" To avoid the Vansittart Shoals with a contrary wind, do not bring
Entrance Point more to the westward than N.W. ^ N. before the peak of
Saddle Island bears N.E. by E., or rather keep Leat Island a little to the
eastward of North. When near the N.W. part of these shoals, the West
end of Leat may be brought N. | W., but not more westerly, until South
Island is open to the northward of Low and Saddle Islands. The northern
extremities of these two islands, and the southern part of South Island in
one, E. by N. % N., just clear the northern part of the shoals."

It appears, however, by the American chart, that Entrance Point bearing
N W., and the peak of Saddle Island N.E. | E., will keep a vessel nearly
\h mile clear of the S.W. prong of the shoals. Leat Island a little eastward
of North, seems rather an indefinite mark, unless it be known how much of
the island is visible ; but, taking it to mean the highest point, viz., Putat
Hill, 613 feet high, and which would appear from the southward nearly in
the middle of the island, it should not be brought to the northward of
N. ^ E., until the peak of Saddle Island bears N.E. i E., when it may be
brought to bear North. The North extremes of Saddle and Low Islands
in line, bearing N.E. by E. f E., clears the northern end of the shoals
nearly a mile.

Being to the northward of the Vansittart Shoals, Low Island must not be
brought South of E. by S. J S., or Sand Island West of North, to avoid the
shoals between those islands ; and to clear the patches lying southward of
the S.E. point of Pulo Leat, keep Barn Island East of E.S.E., until Middle
Point, or Putat Hiil, bears N. by W. \ W., when Barn Island may be
brought to S.E. by E. i E., which will clear the reef extending from Middle
Point. To clear the reefs South of Jelaka, the S.E. point of Leat should
not be shut in by Middle Point, until Pulo Jelaka bears N.N.E. ; and to
avoid the reefs westward of that islet, keep Middle Point East of E.S.E.,
until Jelaka bears East. Jelaka bearing East also leads northward of the
Discovery Hocks.

Having arrived 2 miles West of Jelaka, and to the northward of the
Discovery Eocks, Entrance Point must not be brought West of S.S.W. j W.,
I. A. 2 I

242 GASPAR STRAIT.

nor Klippige Point West of S.W. f S., until Pulo Kilapan bears W.8.W.,
which will lead outside the dangers extending from the N.W. coast of Leat,
and 1^ mile to the northward of the Aleeste Reef. Rocky Point Hill in
line with Tree Point, S.W. j S., leads about a mile north-westward of the
Aleeste Reef.

Standing to the westward. — To avoid the 2i-fathom bank, keep the high
trees on Klippige or Rocky Point, or Rocky Point Hill, well open of En-
trance Point, bearing N. by W. i W., or keep Entrance Point West of N. by
W. i W., until Baginda Peak bears W. by N., when a vessel may stand
over until Entrance Point bears N. by E. 1 E.

To clear the Klippige Shoals, do not bring Entrance Point South of S.W.
I S., until the right extreme of Pulo Kilapan bears N.W. by W., Klippige
Point S.W. by W., or Pulo Jelaka N.E. by E., leads about half a mile
northward of the Klippige Shoals.

When standing towards the Discovery Rocks, do not bring Entrance Point
South of S.S.W., or Klippige Point South of S.W. i S., until the right
extreme of Kilapan bears W. by N. ^ N., or Pulo Jelaka, East, when
a vessel will be northward of the dangers, and may stand westwards towards
the bank into 10, or even 8 or 7 fathoms, until she nears Wilson Bank.

The Saddles, two hills on the Banka coast, 912 It. high, bearing W.N. W.,
or the Padang Hills W. by N. i N., lead about 1:^ mile southward of the
Wilson Bank ; and the extreme of Brekat Point, N.W. by N., leads more
than half a mile eastward of that danger, and will also keep a vessel clear of
the elbow when standing inshore between Wilson Bank and Brekat Point.

Directions from the northward. — In the early part of the N.E. monsoon,
northerly and north-westerly winds prevail about the entrance of G-aspar
Strait, when strong south-easterly currents will generally be experienced
between Gaspar Island and Pulo Leat. It appears certain that the frequent
accidents happening to vessels in the vicinity of Aleeste Reef arise princi-
pally from neglecting to guard against the effects of this current. A vessel,
therefore, intending to proceed to the southward through Macclesfield Chan-
nel, and having passed a mile or two eastward of Gas par Island, should
steer to the south-westward until Gaspar Island bears N. by E. ^ E., upon
which bearing it should be kept until Pulo Kilapan is S.W. by W., and the
North point of Pulo Leat S.E. by E., when she will be in the fairway of the
channel, and may steer South, carefully guarding against the effects of tides
or currents by frequent cross bearings of the North point of Leat, Pulo
Jelaka, Rocky Point Hill, or Pulo Kilapan. If a South course be preserved,
when Pulo Kilapan bears West, Middle Point, the S.W. point of Leat, wiU
be the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, and Rocky Point will bear
S.W. by S., which latter bearing also leads dose to the East side of the
Discovery Rocks. If, when Pulo Kilapan bears West, Middle Point be not
open of Jelaka, the vessel will be too far to the eastward j and if Middle

MACCLESFIELD THANNEL. 243

Point should be Tnore than the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, she will
be too far to the westward.

If, in consequence of light or baffling winds, it be found impossible to keep
Gaspar Island N. by E. IE., but that as the vessel approaches Pulo Leat
it is found to bear N. by E., or N. f E., great caution must be observed in
passing Alceste Eeef, for Gaspar Island bearing N. ^ E. is the line of direc-
tion of that danger, and to avoid it Pulo Kilapan must not be brought west-
ward of W.S.W. until Pulo Jelaka bears South.

Being in the fairway, with Pulo Kilapan bearing AVest, and Middle Point
the breadth of Jelaka open of that islet, Entrance Point will be just in sight
bearing about S.S.W. A ship may continue the South course, but if there
be any doubt of her posi+ion, it will be prudent to bring Entrance Point
S.S.W. ^ W., which will lead through nearly in mid-channel between the
Discovery Pocks and the dangers off Jelaka, the narrowest and most difficult
part of the channel. But great care must be taken to preserve that bearing,
Entrance Point being at so great a distance, that any error in the bearing
would be extremely likely to lead into danger. Entrance Point bearing
S.S.W. i W., leads about half a mile westward of the dangers off Jelaka,
and the same point S.S.W. leads clear of the Discovery Rocks.

When the S.E. point of Leat is open of Middle Point, the ship will be
southward of the Discovery Rocks, and if she has been steering for Entrance
Point, the course must be immediately altered to the south-eastward, until
Entrance Point bears S.W. ^ S. — which leads eastward of the Klippige Shoals
— when a South course may be again shaped until Entrance Point bears
about W. ^ S. ; then steer S. ^ W. for 13 or 14 miles, or until Entrance
Point is about N. by W. i W., and Baginda Peak N.W. f W., when the
vessel will be in about 10 fathoms on the outer edge of the bank extending
northward of the Bias Mateu Rock, and to clear that rock must steer about
S.W. until the Six-peak range of hills on Pulo Lepar bears N. by W., when
a S. by W, i W. or S.S.W. course may be shaped for the Two Brothers.

To work through from the northward, it will generally be advisable to get
over to the westward towards the Banka shore as soon as possible, where a
vessel will be more in the fairway of the channel, and will find more conve-
nient depths of water for anchoring, if it should be necessary to bring up.

If, however, when to the southward of Gaspar Island, it should be found
advantageous to stand well over to the eastward, it is not advisable that Gas-
par should be brought more westward than N. by W., or N. by W. \ W.,
when nearing the doubtful position of the Akbar Shoal ; and the greatest
care should be observed in rounding Alceste Reef, not to bring Pulo Kilapan
westward of W.S.W. until Pulo Jelaka bears South.

Standing to the westward. — Tree Island may be approached to about a mile,
or until Gaspar Island bears N.E. \ E., which leads that distance clear of
the dangers extending from it. Brekat Point bearing N.W. by N., will

244 GASFAE STEAIT.

lead about half a mile eastward of the Elbow and of Wilson Bank, and a
vessel will be to the southward of those dangers when the Saddles on Banka
bear W N.W., or Padang Hills W. by N. | N., and may then stand on to
the bank into 8 or 7 fathoms, until the North extreme of Pulo Kilapan bears
W. by N. I N., which leads northward of the Discovery Eocks. Klippige
or Eocky Point, S.W. ^ S., leads eastward of the Discovery Eocks, and also
clears the shoals extending from the N.W. coast of Pulo Leat.

Standing to the eastward towards Jelaka, take great care not to bring En-
trance Point anything West of S.S.W. ^ W. until Middle Point is E.S.E.,
which leads southward of the dangers off Jelaka. Jelaka must then be kept
East of N.N.E., until the S.E. point of Leat is in line with Middle Point,
when it may be brought to bear North. To avoid the rocks off the S.E.
point of Leat, do not bring Putat Hill, or Middle Point, West of N. by W.
\ W., until Barn Island bears E.S.E. The East extreme of Pulo Leat bear-
ing North will keep a vessel clear of the dangers extending from Sand Island,
and Sand Island, if not brought to the West of N. ^ W., will clear the dan-
gers to the southward of it and of Barn Island. Saddle Island in one with
Low Island, bearing E.N.E., leads about three-quarters of a mile northward
of the northern group of the Vansittart Shoals ; Putat Hill bearing North,
or N. :| W., leads westward of the middle group ; the same hill N. \ E. leads
westward, and Entrance Point N.W. to the southward of the S.W. group.
Shoal-water Island should not be approached from the westward nearer
than 4 or 3 miles ; bearing N.N.E. ^ E., it will lead a mile westward of the
Branding Breakers.

The Padang, Turtle, and Hancock Shoals may be approached to a mile, if
a good lookout is kept when in their vicinity.

Standing to the tvestward when southward of the Discovery Eocks, the right
extreme of Kilapan bearing N.W. f W., or Entrance Point S.S.W. ^ W.,
clears the northern cluster of the Klippige Shoals ; but when Eocky
Point bears West, Entrance Point should not be brought South of S.W. ^ S.
After passing Entrance Point, keep the high trees on Eucky Point, or
Eocky Point Hill, open of Entrance Point, or keep Entrance Point West
of N. by W. i W., until Baginda Peak bears W.N.W., to clear the 2^-
fathom bank. '

CLEMENTS CHANNEL.

This channel is much narrower and more encumbered with dangers than
either the Macclesfield or Stolze Channels. It is separated from the former
by the four small islands, which from their appearance are respectively
named Low, Saddle, Sand, and Barn, and by Pulo Leat, which form its
western limit. To the eastward, it is only separated from Stolze Channel by
South, North, and Table Islands, three small islands lying close together, so

LOW AND SADDLE AND SOUTH ISLANDS. 245

that the entrances to both channels, either from the southward or the north-
ward are common. The entrance to Clements Channel from the southward
is, however, understood to lie to the westward of the Doubtful Dangers (page
229), Sharpshooter Rock, Hippogriffe Shoal, Hancock and Turtle Shoals,
Sand Island, Padang Reef, Branding Breakers, Shoalwater Island, and Em-
bleton Rock ; whilst the entrance of Stolze Channel is considered to be to the
eastward of those dangers ; and this order will be observed in the description
of these channels.

LOW and SADDLE are two small islands, a little more than half a mile
in diameter, lying in a S.E. by S. direction about 8J miles from the south-
eastern point of Pulo Leat. They bear E.N.E. and W.S. W,, and are distant
a mile from each other. Low Island, the westernmost, is 123 ft. high ;
Saddle Island has two hills upon it forming a saddle, the western hill being
210, and the eastern 266 ft. high. Both islands are connected and surrounded
by reefs, extending nearly half a mile from them.

Three dangerous patches, extending a mile in aN.W. and opposite direction,
lie between the bearings of E. \ N. and N.E. by N., distant \\ mile from
the East point of Saddle Island. In the Java Guide a dry reef is said to lie
1:^ mile N.E. by E. from Saddle Island, but in the American survey 1 fathom
water is shown on the S.E. and N.W. patches, and 2 fathoms on the middle
patch. Between the reefs and the island is a narrow channel of 8 to 14 fa-
thoms water ; close-to, on the outside of the reefs, are 15 to 19 fathoms.

Sand Island, lying S. by E. | E. 5 miles from the S.E. point of Pulo Leat,
is very small and low, and surrounded by rocks to the distance of a third of
a mile. About half a mile to the northward of it are 12 or 14 fathoms, and
from 10 to 23 fathoms the same distance to the southward.

Barn Island, lying about \\ mile E. by N. ^N. from Sand Island, is small,
about a third of a mile in diameter, 154 ft. high, and surrounded by a reef
to the distance of about a third of a mile. Between Barn and Sand Islands
are depths of 8 to 14 fathoms.

Dangerous reefs, dry at low water, extend nearly 2 miles between the bear-
ings of S.S.E. i E. and S.8.W. J W. from Barn Island.

SOUTH ISLAND, one of the islands limiting Clements Channel to the
eastward, lies S.E. by E. ^ E. 10^ miles from the S.E. point of Pulo Leat.
It is the largest of the islands in this vicinity, being about a mile in diameter ;
the highest hill upon it is 200 ft. high. It is surrounded by a reef extending
from it in most parts about a third of a mile, but off its South end dangers
project three-quarters of a mile. Close to the reef are from 5 to 14 fathoms,
and 18 and 24 fathoms a short distance to the westward.

Table Island, lying E. by S. 1 J mile from South Island, more properly
belongs to Stolze Channel. It is surrounded by reefs projecting nearly half
a mile from it, and in the middle of the channel between it and Soutli
Island, is a 2 1 -fathoms patch.

246 ' GASPAR STRAIT.

North. Island, lyin?: 1| mile northward of South Islanrl, is also siirroundfld
by a reef, which extends from it ahoiit a third of a mile. At two-thirds of a
mile E.N.E. from the East end of the island is a dry bank with 16 fathoms
close-to, and 12 fathoms between it and the reef extending from the island.
A mile S.E. from the same end of the island is a patch of 3 fathoms.

Sunk Rock is 16 yards only in diameter, with 9 ft. water on it, and 10 fa-
thoms around it. From it Saddle Island bears S. bv W. } W., 4J miles,
North Island E. by N. 2\ miles, Barn Island W. by S. 3:^ miles, a reef near
Saddle Island South, the centre of Table Island and the North point of South
Island are in one, and Sandy Island is entirely hidden by Barn Island.

From its position as placed upon the American chart, the southern extreme
of North Island bears Eist, distant 2^ miles; the south-western extreme of
South Island S.E. by E. southerly ; and the northern point of Barn Island
W. by S. southerly. A quarter of a mile S. ^ E. from it is a patch of 5 fa-
thoms, with 13 fathoms between it and the rock.

Middle Pass Shoals are three coral patches lying: close together, and ex-
tending nearly a mile in a N.E. by N. and opposite direction. From their
southern extreme Barn Island bears S. f E. 3 miles ; and the south-eastern
point of Pnlo Leat bears N.W. by W. | W. 2| miles. Barn Island, bearing
S. f W., leads about two-thirds of a mile to the eastward of the shoals ; the
southern extreme of North Island S.E. by E., clears them about the same
distance to the north-eastward, and bearing E. by S. ^ S., clears them to the
southward ; the S.E. point of Pulo Leat bearing W. I S., clears them to the
northward.

Coral Bank is a small patch just awash, with 12 to 19 fathoms around it,
lying If mile nnrth-westward of the Middle Pass Shoals. From it the S.E.
point of Pulo Leat bears S.W. by W. i W., nearly If mile ; and Pulo Anak
N. by W. I W. westerly, 2| miles. The S.E. point of Leat hearing W. by
S. J S., leads to the southward of the bank, but over a 2J-fathom bank which
lies between Rocky Bank and the S.E. point of Pulo Leat. The eastern ex-
treme of Pulo Anak, N.W. by N., leads to the north-eastward.

HEWITT SKOAL, upon which, in August, 1820, the ship General Hewitt
struck, and remained fast for half an hour, lies 5 miles N. by "W. :J W. from
the western extreme of North Island. When aground the western extremes
of South and North Islands were in one ; the extremes of Leat Island bore
from W.N.W. to W. by S. i S. ; Barn Island S.W. by S. ; and the hill on
Brekat Point was well open of Pulo Leat. It is about a ship's length in
extent, and 16 to 20 yards in breadth. The coral rocks were visible under
the vessel with only 14 (or 18) ft. water over them, and near the shoal 12 to
15 fathoms.

The high part of South Island open of the West extreme of North Island
leads westward of Hewitt Rock ; and the same object open of the East ex-
treme of North Island leads to the eastward.

PULO LEAT-THE MIDDLE PASS. 247

PULO LEAT. — The western coast of this island and Jelaka light are no-
ticed on pp. 235-6. The eastern coast takes a northerly direction for 3j miles
from its S.E. point, when it runs about N.W. ^ N. 3| miles to the northern
point. The whole of this coast is fronted by a coral reef, which commences
about half a mile northward of the S.E. point ; in front of the bay, abuut
three-quarters of a mile northward of the S.E. point, the reef extends half a
mile, but not quite so far from the eastern extreme of the inland. Close to
the northward uf the eastern extreme, upon the dry reef exteudiug from the
shore of the island, is an islet called Pulo Anak, or Selagin.

According to the American chart, fresh water may be obtained in the small
bay, about half a mile to the northward of the S.E. point of Ijeat, just where
the dry reef begins to project from the shore.

Rocky Shoal, lying N.E. by E. -^ E. If mile from the S.E. point of Leat,
is before described on page 246.

Of the N.E. coast of Pulo Leat, besides the reef projecting from the shore,
are numerous outlying coral patches, extending nearly 2 miles from it, and
rendering this part of the coast exceedingly dangerous. The north-eastern
of these dangers — which bound this part of Clements Channel to the west-
ward — lies with the S.E. point of Leat in line with the eastern extreme of
the island, distant nearly 2 miles from Pulo Anak ; from whence the dangers
take a S. 5^ W. direction until they join the reef which projects about half a
mile East of Pulo Anak.

A vessel will pass eastward of these dangers by keeping the S.E. point of
Leat West of S. by W. | W. ; and North Island bearing S.E. |- S. will lead
to the north-eastward.

Akbar Shoal is noticed on page 238.

The MIDDLE PASS, which unites Macclesfield and Clements Channels,
is bounded on the S.E. by Sand Island, Barn Island, Sunk Kock, dLUii ISurth
Island ; and on the N.W. by the dangers projecting from the boutheru end
of Pulo Leat and the Middle Pass Shoals.

To proceed from the Macclesfield Channel through the Middle Pass from
the south-westward, steer between Entrance Point and the Yansittart Shoals
towards Sand Island, the channel between which and the shoals extending
from the southern end of Leat, is clear, with depths of 14 to 20 fathoms ;
Entrance Point kept bearing W. by S. i S., leads through in mid-channel.

In the event of meeting with baffling winds, so that the vessel cannot pre-
serve a straight course, the foliowiug may prove useful : — The Ea&t extreme
of Pulo Leat bearing North, clears the dangers extending from the West
side of Sand Island ; the North extreme of Barn Island bearing East, clears
the dangers extending frum the North side of Sand Island ; Barn Island
E.S.E., clears the shoals projecting trom the southern end of Leat; Middle
Point of Leat W.N. W., clears the Middle Pass shoals; and the North ex-
treme of Barn Island S. W. by W. J W. leads North of Sunk Eock.

248 GASPAR STRAIT.

The Channel between Low Island and Sand Island is narrowed to the
breadth of Ig mile by the shoals extending to the southward of Barn Island.
It is not easy to see what advantage is to be gained by using this channel.

The Channel between Vansittart Shoals and Low Island is 2 miles wide,
and may be used by bringing Sand Island to bear N.N.W., which will lead
through in mid-channel.

CLEMENTS CHANNEL from the Southward.— Proceeding through Cle-
ments Channel from the southward, having passed the Pairlie Rock, steer
about N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., if the vessel has passed on the South side
of the rock, or about N.E. by N. if she passed on the North side. When
the summit of South Island is made out, bring it N.N.E., which will lead
between the Embleton Rock and the Vansittart Shoals ; take care, however,
not to mistake South Island, remembering that Low and Saddle Islands will
be seen to the westward of it. Low Island bearing N.N.E. leads over the
eoulh-eastern prong of the Vansittart Shoals.

Approaching South Island on a N.N.E. bearing, the soundings will be 9 to
13 fathoms until well up with Low Island, when they will deepen to 16 and
18 fathoms, and to 24 or 25 fathoms when abreast of Saddle Island. When
Saddle Island bears West, steer N. by W., which will lead more than a mile
clear of the reefs off the north-eastern end of Saddle Island, and midway be-
tween North Island and Sunk Rock, and in this track the soundings will be
22, 24, 17, 24, and 23 fathoms. When the North extreme of North Island
bears East, steer N.W. by N. for 5 or 6 miles to pass between Middle Pass
Shoals and Hewitt Shoal, in depths varying from 22 to 32 fathoms ; when
the S.E. point of Leat bears about W.S.W., a N. J W. course may be shaped
for Gaspar Island.

To pass westward of Sunk Rock, keep the summit of South Island
N.N.E., until Saddle Island bears W. by S., when steer N.W. ^ W., which
will lead clear of the shoals north-eastward of Saddle Island, and between
Barn Island and Sunk Rock, and between Middle Pass Shoals and Hewitt
Shoal.

No vessel would from choice attempt to work through Clements Channel,
as Macclesfield and Stolze Channels are much better adapted fur that purpose;
but it is possible that a vessel, embarrassed by light baffling winds, may find
it convenient to proceed through some part of this channel.

From the Northward. — For the convenience of navigators, the directions
for proceeding through this channel from the southward, with a fair wind,
are here reversed ; but for working through, it will not be necessary to give
other directions than merely to observe the bearings of objects to avoid the
various dangers, and which eqtially apply to vessels proceeding in either
direction.

Having passed a mile or two eastward of Gaspar Island, steer to bring it
N. by W., and kept on that bearing, steering S. by E., it will lead clear of

STOLZE CHANNEL. 249

the dangers lying off the N.E. coast of Pulo Leat. When the North ex-
treme of Palo Leat bears West, its S.E. extreme should bear S.W. by S.
Continue the S. by E. course until the S.E. extreme of Leat bears W.S. W.,
when Saddle Island should be seen just on the starboard bow with Barn
Island and Low Island to the right of it ; South Island should be about two
points on the port bow, with North Island close to the left of it. The West
extreme of South Island, S.E. by S., will lead between Sunk Eock and the
dangers extending from North Island. When the North point of North
Island bears East, steer S. by E. to pass between South Island and the shoals
off the N.E. end of Saddle Island ; and when the South extreme of Saddle
Island bears West, bring the peak of South Island N.N.E., and keeping
it on that bearing will lead between Embleton Eock and the Vansittart
Shoals.

If intending to pass westward of Sunk Eock, preserve the S. by E. course
until the S.E. extreme of Leat bears West, when Saddle should bear, or
must be brought to bear, S. ^ E., which leads between Sunk Eock and Barn
Island. When North Island bears E. ^ N., steer, S.E., taking care that the
North end of Barn Island is not brought to the North of N.W. by W. | W.,
to clear the dangers north-eastward of Saddle Island ; when the peak of
South Island bears N.N.E., steer S.S.W., and. proceed as before.

STOLZE CHANNEL.

STOLZE CHANNEL is rather wider, less encumbered with dangers, and
furnishes objects more convenient for guiding vessels safely through it, than
the Macclesfield Channel. The southern entrance is 15 miles broad, bounded
on the West by the Larabe Shoal, and the dangers described on pp. 229-30,
and on the East by the Carnbee Eocks, Naga Eeef, Aanvang Bank, Cooper,
and Three-feet shoals. These latter shoals are very much against this channel
in making it from the southward, for the Carnbee Eocks — the most southern
of the dangers — are 20 miles distant from the land, so that in thick or hazy
weather, when a ship might be uncertain of her exact position, she would
not be able to make Billiton with nearly the same safety that she would be
able to make Pulo Lepar or the South coast of Banka. These shoals would
appear to form the only drawback to the adoption of this channel, and in
fine weather even this would almost disappear, for the hills on Billiton are
high, and may be seen at a distance of 30 or 35 miles ; and when in the
vicinity of these dangers, not only are the hills on Billiton clearly distin-
guishable, but Kennedy and Otan Islands are weU in sight.*

* Stolze Channel it easy for a stranger ; but the nature of the bottom, and the depth of
water in it is against anchoring, in the event of calms or thick weather. North of Gaspar
I. A. 2 K

2.-30 GASPAE STEAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL.

Heroine Shoal. — The positions assigned to this shoal, in lat. 3° 33^ 8.,
Ions'. 107" 52' E., also in lat. 3" 37' S., long. 107" 46' E., were examined by
H.M.S. Nassau, in 1876, when soundings of not less than 15 fathoms were
obtained, with no indication of shoal water in the vicinity ; the exact posi-
tion is, however, doubtful, but it is still placed on the charts in lat. 3° 37' S.,
long. 107° 46' E.

Carnbee Eocks, in lat. 3° 33' 15" S., long. 107° 39' 40" E., are of coral
formation, 400 yards long in a North and South direction, and 300 yards
broad. Ihese rocks are covered at high water, and are thus difficult to dis-
tinguish, when the water is smooth, from a distance of more than 1 cable ;
but a portion dries 5 ft. at low water; there are 12 to 15 fathoms 1 cable
from them.

Naga Eeef is placed on the chart in lat. 3° 26^' S., long. 107° 36' E., 7
miles N.N.W. from Carnbee Eocks, and S. by E. f E. 4J^ miles from Aanvang
Bank. A rock above water is marked on the Dutch chart at 3^ miles S.S.E.
of the Aanvang Bank.

AANVANG BANK {Commencement Bank), discovered in 1822 by Lieut.
J. Stolze, is half a mile in length W. by N. ^N. and E. by S. ^ S., and about
a cable broad. It consists of large black rocks, some of which are visible at
low water springs ; close to them are 5 to 13 fathoms, and about 1^ mile
westward of them are 22 fathoms. Erom the western extreme of the bank,
Gunong Bolo, on the South point of Pulo Selio, bears N.N.W. f W. 10^
miles, and Blantoe Hill N. by E. \ E.

Cooper Shoals, lying N.N.W. \ W. 2^ miles from Aavang Bank, have
only 2 ft. water over them, and 7 to 10 fathoms close-to. Gunong Bolo bears
from them about N.W. by N., and Blantoe Hill N.N.E.

Three^feet Shoal is a patch having only 3 ft. water over it, and 10 to 13
fathoms around it, lying N.W. by W. J W. 4f miles from Cooper Shoals,
with Gunong Bolo bearing N. ^ W. 4^- miles, and Blantoe Hill N.E. \ N.
13^ miles.

Kennedy or Masar is a small island, lying 7 miles to the N.E. of the Aan-
vang Bank, in lat. 3° 19' S., long. 107° 40' 10" E. There is a small islet at IJ
mile to the N.W. of it.

Otan Island is rather smaller than Kennedy Island, and lies about 1 J mile
E.S.E. from it. Other dangers and islands lie to the southward of Billitun,

Strait we always found a soft bottom, whereas in Stolze Channel, besides the inconvenient
depth, it is of rock or coral. The strength of the current probably prevents the accumula-
tion of mud. Hij^h or Hoog Island, off the N.W. coast of Meudanao, shows conspicuously,
axid is a good distinguishing mark ; at night we found it an easy object to see."— Capt. the
Hon. C. G. J. B. Elliot, H.M.S. Syhillc, 1855.

PIJLO SELTO. 251

but thpy are to the eastward of the track of vessels bound through Gaspar

Strait.

'■/ The West Coast of Billiton, forming the eastern limit of Gaspar Strait,

is fronted by numerous islands, separated by narrow and, for the most part,

unnavigable passages. Pulo Selio, with the dangers westward of it ; the

group named the Six Islands ; and Pulo Mendanao, the largest of the islands,

form the eastern limit of Stolze Channel.

At the S.W. end of Billiton a^e the Unycorhs, or Gunong Beginda, two
remarkable hills, 496 ft. high, which, when coming from the southward, ap-
pear as islands. Five miles north-eastward of the Haycocks is Blantoe Hill,
1,166 ft. high ; and to the eastward of Blantoe are Luda, Pyramid, and South
Peak, all of which serve to determine a ship's position when approaching the
strait from the southward.

Seven miles northward of Blantoe diVQ Eliang, 1,198 ft., and Noi^e 1,090 ft.
high. Ten or eleven miles N. by E. from Blantoe is Agong, 1,242 ft. high,
and which appears to be the highest hill on the island. Seven miles north-
ward of Agong, in lat. 2° 53', is Tadjem, 1,096 ft. high. The whole of the
hills just mentioned are visible from the southward and south-westward.
Three miles S.S.E. ^ E. from Tanjong Bienga, a high bluff forming the
north-western extremity of Billiton, is Gunong Tehalo, the highest part of
which, Round Mount, is 541 ft. high.

A little to the northward of Tamelang Point, on the S.W. side of Billiton,
there is a small rivulet of good water, which may be easily approached by
boats. Fresh water is also to be found in the northern part of the bay on the
West side of Selio.

PULO SELIO is surrounded by a reef, and separated from the south-
western point of Billiton by a narrow channel, in the middle of which is the
small island of Seriboe ; a mile south-eastward of Seriboe is a reef which
partly dries. Close to the shore of Billiton are the small islands Goenting
and Proet.

The South point of Selio is in lat. o° 14' S., long. 137° 30' E., and the
conspicuous hill, 242 ft. high, upon it, is named Gunong Bolo.

White Rock, 28 ft. above water, stands on the outer edge of a rocky
patch, lying nearly 3 miles W. \ N. from the South point of Selio ; a mile
S.E. by E. from it are some rocks above water. There is no channel betwepn
White Rock and Selio, and shoal water extends nearly 1^ mile southward of
that island. A 4f-fathom patch lies 3 miles S.S.E. from White Rock.

A Shoal, about a third of a mile in extent, having but li ft. of water over
it, and 10 to 16 fathoms close-to, liesN.W. nearly 2 miles from White Rock.
Between this shoal and White Rock, and between both and the Koerier
Bank, are channels of 5 to S fathoms water.

Koerier Bank, of sand, about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad,

252 GASPAE STEAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL.

dries at low water at 3 miles North of the White Eock, and 4 miles "West of
the North point of Pulo Selio.

The 3-fathoms edge of the bank surrounding Selio forms a sort of bay on
the West side of that island, where a ship may anchor to fill up water.
The entrance to it is between the IJ-feet shoal and the Koerier Bank;
Gunong Bolo bearing S.E. by E. A E. will lead into it, midway between
those dangers.

Foul ground and shallow water extends to the westward from Billiton,
nearly to a line drawn from White Eock to Eoss Island, the most southern
of the Six-island Group ; within this line, 2^ miles N. by W. J W. from the
Koerier Bank, is Gull Roch.

The large bay to the northward of Selio, and eastward of the Six Islands,
is crowded with small islands and reefs.

The SIX ISLANDS, or Pulo Lima, are small, low, and surrounded by
reefs, between which are narrow passages having depths of 10 to 20 fathoms
water. The southernmost of these islands, named Ross, after Captain Eoss,
I.N., is 42 ft. high, and lies in lat. 3° 5' S., long. 107° 20' E. The others
are named Benolo, 94 ft. high ; Kasengo, 58 ft. ; Bago, 146 ft. ; Belong, 170 ft.;
and Binget, 158 ft. high. They may be approached to the southward and
westward as near as 1 mile; but dangerous patches extend from Eoss Island
in a S.E. direction for nearly 2 miles ; and from Kasengo, the north- western
island, reefs, some of which dry at low water, extend in a N.N.W. direction
to the distance of \\ mile, and for three-quarters of a mile in a southerly
direction. The western extreme of Mendanao bearing North a little easterly
leads close to the reef extending N.N.W. from Kasengo, and bearing N. \ E.
or N. ^ E., clears all dangers near the Six Islands.

TABLE ISLAND, 116 ft. high, forms the western limit of the narrowest
part of Stulze Channel, the reef extending N.N.W. from Kasengo, forming
the eastern limit. The island is about a third of a mile long N.N.W. and
S.S.E., and nearly a quarter of a mile broad. It lies nearly 2 miles E. by S.
from South Island, and, from its isolated position, serves as an excellent
mark to guide vessels in steering for the narrow part of Stolze Channel when
approaching it either from the southward or from the northward. It is sur-
rounded by a reef to the distance of nearly half a mile, and at two-thirds of
a mile S.W. of it is an outlying patch of 3 fathoms.

SOUTH ISLAND is about four times as large as Table Island, and a hiU
on its northern part is 200 ft. high. It is bordered by a reef, and dangers
extend three-quarters of a mile in a southerly direction froaa its South point.
On its North side are some rocks not far from the shore, and a patch with
only 3 ft. water over it lies half a mile N. by W. from its eastern point.

A Two-and-a-quarter Fathoms Patch lies nearly in mid-channel between
Table Island and South Island, which makes that passage dangerous ; else-
where are soundings of 14 to 21 fathoms.

NOETH ISLAND— PULO BATU DINDING. 253

A 3-feet patch lies 2J miles W.S.W. from Table Island, and three-quarters
of a mile off the South side of South Island.

NORTH ISLAND, 240 ft. high, is separated from South Island by a
channel 1| mile wide, which, from the reefs projecting from both islands, is
narrowed to three-quarters of a mile. Th% channel is clear, with soundings
of 7 to 18 fathoms. The two islands are in one on a N. by W. and opposite
bearing. Three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. from the N.E. point is a dry patch ;
there is also a patch of 3 fathoms lying S.E. ^ E., distant a little more than
half a mile from the same point.

PULO MENDANAO, or Long Island, lying 15^ miles to the eastward of
Pulo Leat, is much the largest of the numerous islands which front the West
coast of Billiton. It is about 8 miles in extent North and South, and about
the same distance East and "West. The island is for the most part low,' but
has some hills 600 to 700 ft. high upon it.

Pulo Ayam is a very small islet, lying S.S.E. 2J miles from West Point.
There is a rock on the outer edge of the reef extending from Mendanao
from which the South point of the island bears E. ^ S. 2f miles, and Pulo
Ayam N.N.W. f W. At three-quarters of a mile from the rock in the
direction of Pulo Ayam is a dry patch.

Pulo Gala, or Low Island, lies off the S.E. coast of Mendanao, from which
it is separated by the Nado Passage, about three-quarters of a mile broad.

The Nado Passage, between Mendanao and Gala Islands, is said to be
entirely clear, and very deep, but this is doubtful.

A huoy is moored on the eastern side of the channel, about a mile wide,
which separates the dangers extending from Pulo Gala from those extending
westward from the islands which lie southward of Tanjong Roe, off the
western side of Billiton Island, The buoy lies 2| miles south-eastward of
the southern extreme of Pulo Gala.

Brown Reef. — The English barque Victor, when proceeding through Stolze ^
Channel, struck on a rock with only 8 ft. water on it, and 14 fathoms close-
to, Pulo Betong (the easternmost of the Six Islands) bearing S.S.E., and
Table Island W. ^ S. These bearings would place this reef near the position
of a danger named Brown Eeef on the Dutch chart.

As there appear to be other dangers besides Brown Reef in this locality, a
vessel will do well to pass westward of a line drawn between Kasengo Island
and the West point of Mendanao.

Hoog Island {High Island), or Pulo Kumhong, is a small islet, 100 ft. high,
and in the form of a sugar-loaf, lying nearly 1^ mile to the northward of
West Point ; a reef surrounds it, which on the eastern and northern sides
projects nearly half a mile.

PULO BATU BINDING lies off the North coast of Mendanao. On the
western side of the island is a deep bay, but it is quite tilled up with coral

254 GASPAR STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL.

Bhoals. Half a mile off the north-eastern end of the island is a small round

islet.

Rotterdam Island, lying about IJ mile northward of the S.W. point of
Batu Dindinff, is small, and more than half a mile "West of it is a very small
islet half a mile S.W. of which are some rocks. A bank of sand and rocks
surround both island and islet, between which and the reef exteuding from
Batu Binding is a narrow channel with 6 to 9 fathoms water in it.

The whole coast between Mendanao Island and Tanjong Bienga, theN.W.
point of Billiton, is fronted by dangers, and vessels should use extreme cau-
tion in approaching it ; the outlying dangers only will be described.

Perlak Shoal, or Kalang Serat, is a rock nearly awash, with a 2-fathoms
patch about a third of a mile north-eastward of it. A monster hwij, painted
Mack, is placed in 7 fathoms water on the North side of the bank, and W.S.W.
cf Tanjong Pandang (Billiton). From it a remarkable tree on Pulo Kal-
manbang bears N. 87° 20' E. ; the N.E. point of Palo Sihongkok (on
Hoorn Island), S. 75° E. ; and the South end of Pulo Kalmanbang on with
the North point of Gunong Tadjem.

Fulo Ealmanlang is a small island lying E. A N. 6! miles from the N.E.
point of Batu Binding. It is surrounded by an extensive reef, on the
western extreme of which, U mile "W.S.W. from the S.W. point of the
island, a huoy is placed. About a mile North from Kalmanbang, and 2
miles N.N.E. from the last-named buoy, is another buoy, which lies off the
middle of a narrow bank, named Tohul (Toekoel), which extends 2 miles in
a N.E. and S.W. direction, and is separated from the reef lying off the
North side of Kalmanbang by a narrow channel. A 5-fathom bank of small
size lies 2 miles N.W. from the latter buoy. A shoal, named Pinang, lies
off the South and S.E. sides of Kalmanbang, distant \^ mile from it.

Tieroetioep Bay and River. — This bay is to the northward of Kalmanbang
Island and the Toekoel Shoal, between the latter and the Karang Panjang,
or Bakka Shoal. The river falls into the eastern part of the bay, but reefs
extend off its entrance to a distance of nearly 4 miles. The small island of
Kalmoa, 150 ft. high, lies directly off the entrance, 3 miles within the reefs.
Pandan, the town on the North entrance point of the river, is joined with
Blantoe, 22 miles to the southward, by a railway.

The outer edges of the reefs which lie on either side of the entrance of the
river form a sort of bight, within the horns of which a vessel may anchor in
6 or 7 fathoms. The best anchorage appears to be a little further out, with
Kalmoa Island bearing about E.S.E., and Kalmanbang Island S. by W. ^ W.
But it is not a safe anchorage in the N.W. monsoon, and even during the
N.E. monsoon there are heavy gales from the N.W.

B^wyf:. — There is a conical buoy lying on the North side of the entrance to
the channel between the reefs, at 2 miles W.N.W. from Kalmoa Island.
There is also a can buoy lying 1 mile further out, and marking the eastern

TAN JONG BTENGA. 255

side of a rocky 5-fatliom patch, which should by avoided by vessels anchoring.
It is advisable to lay the kedge out to the northward, as vessels often foul
their anchors, either by the currents or winds. To enter and anchor in this
bay, having passed the West point of Mendanao at a distance of 2 miles,
Bteer North or N. by E. till Rotterdam Island or the N.W. point of Binding
bears S.S.E., then steer N.E. by E., E.N.E., or E. by N., till Kalmoa Island
bears S.E. by E. ; steer then direct for that island till Kalmanbang bears
S.S.W. J W., and anchor in 7^ fathoms, with the mouth of the river S.E.
by E. i E., 4 miles distant, and the nearest rocks S.E. f E., 3 miles. By
the American chart, Kalmoa bearing S.E. by E. leads just to the southward
of the Bakka Shoal.

When near the N.W. point of Binding, the wind sometimes flies round to
the eastward ; and if bound to this bay it is better to anchor and wait for
the sea breeze from the southward or south-westward, as the current runs to
the N.W. with an easterly wind.

The water, which is fetched from a little way up the river, is very good ;
it may be procured also on the right bank of the river, near the entrance,
but it is not so good.

Karang Pandjang, or Bakka Shoal, bounding Tieroetioep Bay to the
northward, is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, with 1 J fathom water
over it. Tanjong Koeboe (Kubu), or Billiton, bears from it E. by S. :^ S. ;
Kalmoa Islet S.E. i E. ; and Kalmanbang S. by W.

Argo Shoal, about 1| mile in extent, with only a foot of water over the
middle of it, lies N.N.E. ^ E. 4^ miles from the Karang Panjang, and from
its outer edge Tanjong Bienga bears N.E. f E. Several shoals are reported
to lie westward of the Argo Shoal.

Numerous detached patches lie eastward of the line joining Argo Shoal
and Karang Pandjang.

A small shoal, with two fathoms water over it, lies If mile N.E. ^ N. from
the Argo Shoal, with Tanjong Bienga bearing N.N.E. , distant 2 miles ; and
N.W. Island N. f E., 3^ miles.

TANJONG BIENGA is a high bluff point, forming the north-western ex-
treme of Billiton ; from this point the coast trends away north-eastward.

Eleven Islands are a cluster of small islands lying off the north-western
extreme of Billiton. The names of some of them are the Sailor's Hat, Bamboe,
Sampit, and Burong ; the latter is the largest of the group, and lies N.N.E.
nearly 4 miles from Tanjong Bienga.

N. W. Island or Langwas, the outer and most north-western of the islands,
lies just inside the edge of the coral reef which extends from the shore, and
surrounds the entire group, its North end is in lat. 2° 31A' S., long. 107°
38i' E.

Alwina Shoal. — The ship Alwina passed close to a rock lying N.N.W. 1^
mile Irom the north-westernmost of the Eleven Islands. It appeared to be

256 GASPAE STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL.

a detached danger, with a depth of 6 to 9 feet on it, and deep water all
around.

Directions for Stolze Channel. — No soundings appear on the charts for a
distance of 7 or 8 miles southward and south-westward of the Carnbee Eocks
(p. 250), nor yet close to those dangers, so that a vessel cannot be guided by
the lead when approaching them. Between the Carnbee Rocks and the
Aanvang Bank are 13 to 18 fathoms. The Aanvang Bank, Cooper Shoals,
and Three-feet Shoal appear to lie just within the edge of the line of 10 fa-
thoms, running from a position 4 or 5 miles south-eastward of the Aanvang
Bank, outside the shoals just mentioned.

Towards the shoals on the western side of the entrance to the channel the
depths are much less, and they decrease more regularly, the 10-fathom line
extending some 5 or 6 miles to the eastward of them, so that they may be
approached by proper attention to the lead.

The bottom, through the entire length of Stolze Channel, appears to be
composed principally of sand and broken shells, with here and there broken
coral. To the north-westward of Billiton the bottom is mostly soft, black
mud, with sand and broken coral and shells in places.

From the Southward. — As soon as Blantoe, 1,166 ft. high (the highest hill
on the South coast of Billiton), can be recognized, it should be brought to
bear about N.N.E., and with it just in sight on that bearing, if the weather
is clear, a vessel will be about 33 or 35 miles distant from it, in the fairway
of the Stolze Channel, with the Carnbee Rocks about 15 miles to the north-
eastward, and may shape a course North or N. ^ W. As the vessel proceeds
to the northward, Luda Hill will come in sight, and shortly afterwards
Pyramid and South Peak, all of which will be seen to the right or eastward
of Blantoe. Soon the Haycocks will be visible, at first a little to the left of
Blantoe, and by the time they are in line with it, Gunong Bolo, on the South
end of Selio, will be well in sight, bearing about N.N.E., and distant 14 and
15 miles. Shoal- water Island will also be in sight, not perhaps from the
deck, but from the mast-head, or a little way up the rigging, bearing about
N.W. by W., and distant 15 or 16 miles.

From this position a N. by W. f W. course will lead up to Table Island.
Passing 6 or 7 miles westward of White Rock, Saddle and South Islands will
be seen on the port bow ; soon Low Island will also rise in sight on the port
bow, and the Six Islands on the starboard bow ; and as they are approached
— if the N. by W. f "W. course has been preserved — Table Island will be
seen right ahead in mid-channel.

Table Island should be approached on a N. by W. |^ W. bearing until the
West point of Mendanao bears N. by E. or N. by E. I E., which will lead
between Table Island and the reefs extending N.N.W., from Kasenga.
When the North point of North Island bears W.N.W., either steer N.N.W.
for Gaspar Island, which will lead 3 miles eastward of the Hewitt Rock, and

DIEECTIONS. 257

2 miles westward of the western of the two positions ascribed to the Akbar
Shoal ; or bring North Island S. by W. J W., and steer N. by E. f E., or
N.N.E., which will lead 4 or 5 miles westward of the dangers extending
from Eotterdam Island, and into the China Sea eastward of the Akbar and
Canning Shoals.

Working through from the Southicard. — When standing to the eastward, to avoid
the Cambee Eocks, Blantoe Hill must not be brought North of N. by E. ;
and to clear the Aanvang Bank and Cooper Shoal, Gunong Bolo must not
be brought West of N. by W. When Blantoe bears N.E. f N., or the
Haycocks N.N.E. f E., Gunong Bolo must be kept East of N. by E., to avoid
the Three-feet patch.

The dangers southward of Selio should not be approached under a depth
of 10 fathoms, or White Eock brought to the West of N. by W. i W. ; and
■when Gunong Bolo bears N.E. by E. ^ E. White Eock must be kept to the
East of North, to avoid the edge of the bank which lies S.S.E. nearly a mile
from it. White Eock should not be approached nearer than a mile, nor to
a less depth than 14 or 13 fathoms ; when northward of White Eock, it must
not be brought anything South of E.S.E. until the North point of Pulo
Selio bears E. by N. i N., to clear the H ft. patch lying nearly 2 miles N.W.
of it. The Koerier Bank should not be approached under a depth of 10
fathoms, or White Eock brought South of S.E. by S.

Gunong Bolo kept East of S.E. by E. will lead clear of the Koerier Bank,
and to the S.W. of the foul ground between it and the Six Islands. Eoss
Island bearing N.N.W. \ W. leads westward of the foul ground, and also
clear of the dangers lying S.E. of Eoss Island. Kasenga bearing North
clears the dangers extending from the West side of Eoss Island ; and the
hill on the West point of Mendanao, if not brought to the North of N. 2- E.,
will lead well clear of the rocks which extend more than a mile N.N.W.
from Kasenga, and will also clear all danger contiguous to the Six Islands.
AVhen Table Island bears W. by N. a vessel will be northward of the dan-
gers extending from Kasenga, and may stand eastward until the hill on the
West point bears N. % W.

As Pulo Ayam is neared, the hill on West point must not be brought to
the West of North, and the islet must not be approached nearer than a mile.

To clear the dangers about Hoog Island, West point should not be brought
to the South of S.S.E. until Eotterdam Island bears N.E., when Hoog
Island, in line with West point bearing South, will lead clear of the dangers
westward of Eotterdam Island. Eotterdam bearing S.W. leads clear of the
shoal bank extending from the North point of Batoe Binding.

The dangerous coast of Billiton northward of Mendanao should not be
neared under 5 or 6 miles ; the summit of the North range of hills on Men-
danao S.S.W., or Taling, the highest hill on Mendanao, on the same bearing
will lead well clear of ail danger. N.W. Island and Boerong Island should

I. A. 2 L

258 GASPAE STRAIT, STOLZE CHANNEL.

not be approached nearer than 2 miles, and caution must be observed to
avoid the position of the Alwina Shoal (see p. 255).

When standing to the westward, Shoal- water Island, if not brought to the
East of North, will clear all danger from the Larabe Shoal to the Middle
ileef, and the lead will also give good warning when standing towards them,
as they lie some 4 or 5 miles within the edge of the 10-fathom line. Shoal-
water and Hancock Islands must be approached with caution, as the lead
does not give much warning when nearing their ledges ; they should on no
account be approached under a depth of 10 fathoms, or within 2^ miles.
Hancock Island bearing South leads clear of the Bliss Shoal, between which
and South Island a vessel may stand to the westward until the summit of
South Island bears N.E. by N., which will lead clear of the Vansittart Shoals
and the dangers about Saddle and Low Islands.

Saddle Island bearing W. \ S., leads southward of the dangers extending
from South and Table Islands. When near Table Island, its South point
should not be brought to the eastward of North, to avoid the o-fathom patch
lying three-quarters of a mile S."W. of it. The East side of Table Island
may be approached to a mile ; but the East side of North Island has dan-
gers l^ing nearly a mile off it, and to clear them Table Island must not be
brought eastward of S.S.E. The East extreme of South Island just open of
the East extreme of North Island bearing S. by E., leads a mile eastward of
Hewett Shoal.

Through Stohe Channel from the northward. — Having passed eastward of
Gaspar Island, bring it to bear N.N. W., and keep it so, steering S.S.E., and
it will lead into the fairway of Stolze Channel, midway between West point
and the Hewett Shoal, and in this track the soundings will be 14, 16, 20,
22, 28, and 26 fathoms. When West point bears East, distant 4 or 5 miles,
Table Island will be seen on the starboard bow, with North and South
Islands to the right of it. Continuing the S.S.E. course, the Six Islands
will soon be visible on the port bow, and, after passing Table Island at about
2 miles on the starboard beam. West point will soon bear N. by E. or N. by
E. y E. ; when an opposite course may be steered to pass between Table
Island and the dangers extending N.N.W. from Kasenga.

When Table Island bears N. by W. f W., all danger will be cleared near
the Six Islands, and if kept upon that bearing it will lead mid-channel
between White Rock and Shoal-water Island, having passed which, the most
convenient course may be shaped to the southward, giving a good berth to
the shoals extending from Branding Breakers to the Larabe Shoal, on the
western side of the channel, and to the Aanvang Bank and Carnbee Rocks
on the eastern side.

Entering Stolze Channel to the eastward of the Akbar Shoal, between it
and the N.W. coast of Billiton, steer to the S.W., giving the Billiton coast
a berth of 4 or 5 miles ; and as soon as North Island can be made out, bring

DIEECTIONS. 259

it S.S.W., and it will lead well to the westward of the dangers near Rotter-
dam Island. When Table Island bears a little East of South, a S.S.E. course
may be steered until West point bears N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., which
leads midway between Table Island and the reefs off Kasenga ; when pro-
ceed as before.

Worldng through from the Northward. — When danding to the eastivard, the
N,W. coast of Billiton should not be approached nearer than 5 or 6 miles,
or the summit of the North range of hills on Mendanao brought westward
of S.S.W. (pp. 257-8). Rotterdam Island, bearing S.W., will lead clear of
the reefs extending from the North side of Batoe Binding, and the islet off
the N.E. point of the latter island, bearing East, will clear the dangers
northward of Rotterdam. West point bearing South will clear the rocks,
&c., which lie westward of Rotterdam, and bearing S.S.E. will clear the reef
surroimding Hoog Island.

West point and Pulo Ay am should not be approached much under a mile,
as a reef extends about a third of a mile outside them. After passing Pulo
Ayam, the hill near the extremity of West point, if not brought North of
N. ^ E., will keep a vessel outside the dangers between Mendanao and the
Six Islands. Kasenga bearing North, leads westward of Ross Island ; and
Ross Island N.N.W. \ W., or Gunong Bolo, on Pulo Selio, bearing S.E.
by E., leads clear of the dangerous elbow of foul ground to the westward of
Gull Rock, and also clear of the Koerier Bank.

To avoid the li-feet patch at 2 miles N.W. from White Rock, do not
bring White Rock South of E.S.E. after the North point of Selio bears
E. by N. ^ N. White Rock should be passed about a mile off, and after-
wards not brought West of N. by W. ^ W., to avoid the edge of the bank
about a mile S.S.E. from it. Gunong Bolo N. by E., leads westward of
the Three-feet Shoal ; and the Haycocks N. by E. ^ E., or Blantoe Hill
N.N.E. I E., leads westward of Cooper Shoal and the Aanvang Bank. To
avoid the Carnbee Rocks, Blantoe Hill must not be brought to the North of
N. by E.

Standing to the westicard towards Hewitt Shoal, take care not to shut in the
East point of South Island behind the East point of North Island ; these
points just open lead a mile eastward of the shoal. North Island should not
be approached on the East side nearer than H mile, or Table Island brought
to the East of S.S.E., to avoid the dangers off it ; and Kasenga bearing
S.E. i E. will clear the reef off the East side of Table Island. Table Island
should not be brought to the East of North until Saddle Island bears W. 4 S.,
when a vessel will be southward of the dangers extending from Table Island
and South Island ; after which she may stand to the westward until the
summit of South Island bears N.N.E.

Hancock Island bearing South leads eastward of Bliss Shoal, but Han-
cock and Shoal-water Islands must on no account be approached nearer than

260 GASPAE STEAIT, N.E. COAST OF BANKA.

2^ miles, or to a less depth than 10 fathoms, which will be not far from the
shoals, the lead giving very little warning in this locality. When to the
southward of Shoal-water Island Shoals, Shoal-water Island kept to the
West of North will clear the dangers extending from the Branding Breakers
to the Larabe Shoal ; the lead, also, will give sufficient warning, as the
10-fathom line, on the edge of the bank, is 4 or 5 miles to the eastward
of them.

NOETH-EAST COAST OF BANKA.

CAUTION. — The mariner cannot be too cautious in approaching this ex-
ceedingly dangerous coast. It was surveyed by the late Lieutenant James
Eobinson in 1819, but many dangers which front it are very imperfectly
known, their positions depending for the most part upon the accounts of
commanders of vessels who have found themselves too close in and entangled
amongst them when running for Graspar Strait in thick weather.

There are many hills along this coast near the sea, and some mountains
inland ; one of these, called the Saddles, 912 feet high, rises about 9 miles
westward of Tanjong Brekat. At 9 miles westward of the Saddles is the
conspicuous range of the Padang Mountains, the highest summit of which is
elevated 2,630 feet. About 21 miles westward of Tanjong Eiah, or in lat.
1° 50' S., long. 105° 53' E., is the double-peaked mountain Gunong Marass,
2,300 feet high, the largest mountain on the northern part of Banka.

The Coast from Brekat Point trends W. by N. 21 miles to LanJca Pointy
4 miles westward of which is Koha village. This part of the shore may be
approached as near as 4 miles in 7 to 8 fathoms water, as the shoals are not
more than 2 or 3 miles from the land.

About 16 miles N.W. by W. from Lanka Point is the large village of
Koeraw, from whence the coast trends N. by W. and N.N.W. to the River
Marawang, near which stands the village of Pankal Pinang. The mouth of
the river is in 2° 4J' S.

Tetawa Bank. — Fronting the coast between the village of Koeraw and the
Marawang Eiver is an extensive chain of banks, 15 or 16 miles long, and
from 1 to 5 miles broad, known under the general appellation of Tetawa
Bank, upon which are several scattered islands. Many of the patches become
dry, and but few have as much as 4 fathoms water over them.

Pulo Boear, or Colowy, the outermost of the above islands, is very small,
and lies near the S.E. end of the bank, in lat. 2° 14^' S., long. 106° 11' E.

Pulo Passir is a small sandy islet lying W.N.W., distant 43 miles from
Pulo Boear.

Pulo Tetawa is about the same size as Boear, from which it bears West-
northerly, distant 8 miles. It lies near the S.W. extreme of the bank, the

NOETH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. 261

edge of which, is half a mile to the southward and 2 miles to the westward
of it.

Pulo Panjang, the largest, lies on the northern part of the bank, N. by E.
^ E., distant 7 miles from Tanjong Poyang, and E.S.E. 8 miles from the en-
trance of the Marawang Riven The bank extends about three-quarters of a
mile to the northward of this island, but other shoals, known as the Sullivan
Patches, &c., extend to a distance of 5 miles between the bearings of N.E.
and N.W., and for the distance of 3^ miles in a W. by N. direction towards
Tanjong Bunga, the nearest point of Banka.

Horse, Mentawa, and Goat Shoals, are to the eastward of Tetawa Bank.
The Horse, lying E. J S. 3J miles from Pulo Boear, is a small patch, nearly
dry at low water.

The Mentawa Eeef, lying about a mile N. by W. from the Horse, and
E.N.E. 3 miles from Pulo Boear, is more extensive than the Horse. Goat
Shoal lies 3 miles northward of the Mentawa Eeef, and N.E. by N. 6 miles
from Pulo Boear ; 9 ft. is reported upon this shoal.

The Cha^mel between Pulo Boear and the above shoals is shown on the
charts to be about 21 miles wide, with depths of 7 or 8 fathoms in it ; but it
would appear that either other dangers must lie in the channel at the dis-
tance of a mile from Pulo Boear, or that the Mentawa or Horse Eeef must
extend much further to the westward than was supposed, thus rendering the
channel exceedingly narrow : —

Fathool Barie Shoal.— The Fathool Barie struck on a rocky bank, with 2^
fathoms on it, in lat. 2° 4' S., long. 106° 28' E., with Mount Pouak bearing
N.W. i W., Pulo Panjang W.S.W., Pulo Tetawa S.S.W., and Pulo Boear
S. by E. J E.

General Elliott Reefs. — The General Elliott, in August, 1811, found herself
entangled among some reefs, with. Panjang Island S. by W ^ W., 5 miles,
and a point of Banka, being the eastern foot of the hill South of Koba,
S.S.E. ^ E., then being in 8 fathoms. More to the northward, this vessel
ran over some 7-fathoms banks with probably shoaler spots ; they lie in
1° 55' S., 12 miles from Banka.

Sullivan Reefs, Hillsborough Rock. — The Sullivan, on returning from
China, December, 1784, and trying to get sight of Banka during thick
weather, ran as far in as 1 3|^ fathoms, rocky bottom, and there saw three
patches of breakers, one bearing S.S.W. 3 miles; another S.E. by S. the
same distance ; and the third E.N.E. 4 miles. Between the breakers a few
rocks were visible above water. The weather being thick prevented Banka
being seen ; but it was supposed the rocks were in 2° 3' S., and North from
Panjang Island.

The Hillshorough, in March, 1788, returning from China, and steering for
Gaspar Strait, struck on a rock having 3 ft. water on its shoalest part, and
while the bow was aground there were 13 fathoms under the storn. When

262 GASPAR STRAIT, N.E. COAST OF BANKA.

the vessel floated, she anchored in 14 fathoms to the westward of the rock,
with the extremes of Banka N.N.W. and S.E., five small islands about
South, and in about 2° 3' S., thereof extended S.E. and N.E. from the vessel.
It is manifest that the positions of these dangers are altogether uncertain.
The soundings near the Sullivan Patches, whete they are placed upon the
chart, are but 7 and 8 fathoms.

The Diederiha Shoal, with 3 ft. water over it, and 1 3 to 1 4 fathoms around
it, is thought to lie 11 miles north-eastward of Pulo Panjang, and 5 miles to
the southward of Palmer Reef, in lat. 1° 59' S., long. 10f^° 28' E.

Roberts Shoal lies about 4^- miles to the westward of Diederika Shoal. It
has 12 ft. water over it, and 10 fathoms near it.

Between these shoals and Pulo Panjang, and from thence to the coast,
there are numerous rocky shoals, with from 7 to 5 fathoms water between
them, but, as before stated, their exact positions are unknown.

Palmer Reef, lat. 1° 54|' S., long. 106° 27^' E., is probably part of the
northern bank over which the General Elliott passed.

Caution. — All these dangers may be avoided by keeping in not less than 16
fathoms, where there is generally a muddy bottom, whereas in 15 fathoms it
generally becomes rocky.

TANJONG RIAH, on Banka, in lat. 1° 52' S., long. 106° 14' E., is distin-
guished by two hills, and from its S.E. and South sides an extensive reef pro-
jects, which makes it necessary to keep 6 or 8 miles in the offing.

Blach Rock Reef, lying 5^ miles to the South and S.E. of Tanjong Riah, is
very extensive, with only 3 ft. water over it in some places. Tate Rocks, 4
miles S.S.E. from Tanjong Riah, are 14 ft. above water. Other shoals lie
S.E. by S. 8 miles from Tanjong Riah ; and E.N.E., 4 miles from it, is a
patch of 5 fathoms water.

To avoid these dangers, keep Panjang Island to the westward of South,
and go no nearer the shore of Banka than 7 fathoms water, when approach-
ing Marawang Road.

Marawang, or Pankal Pinang, the chief town of one of the tin districts, is
situated a few miles up the Marawang River, the entrance of which lies
about W.N.W. 7 miles distant from Pulo Panjang, and can only be ap-
proached by vessels with the greatest caution, on account of surrounding
dangers. Good water can be obtained at Pankal Pinang.

DIRECTIONS.— Vessels bound from Macclesfield Channel to the ports of
Pankal Pinang or Roessah, pass between Tree Island and Brekat Point,
and to the westward of the Columbian and Dutch Shoals, in 12 to 14 fa-
thoms water, but in not a greater depth— as the Columbian lies in the stream
of 17 fathoms — till Boear Island bears S.W. by S., and Panjang Island
West ; a depth of 16 fathoms must then be kept till Riah Point bears "West.
Prom thence steer direct for that point till in 7 or 8 fathoms, having Panjang
Island S. 2 W., on which bearing the island may be approached till the

NORTH-EAST COAST OF BANKA. 263

N.W. peak of the Lappa Hills bears S.W. i W., which course leads direct
to the anchorage.

LIAT BAY, formed between Tanjong Lyang to the N.W., and Tanjong
Eiah, to the S.E., affords good anchorage with shelter from southerly and
westerly winds in 5 fathoms, white stiff clay, about three-quarters of a mile
off shore ; but in the eastern monsoon the swell is very heavy. The an-
chorage is in 4^ fathoms, with the mouth of the river W. by N. northerly,
Lyang Point N.N. W. I W., and Riah Point S.E. by S. From the river,
nearly to the S.E. point of the bay, a fine sandy beach lines the shore,
with gradually decreasing soundings. The town of Liat, usually known as
Songi Liat, stands a short distance up the river, and is a chief town of one
of the tin districts.

Fresh water here is very difficult to be procured, on account of the rocks
in the mouth, of the river, which can only be entered at high water. Wood
and spars of any dimensions may easily be obtained on the South side of the
bay, within half a mile of the shore.

The three following dangers are very much in the way of vessels frequent-
ing this bay. I^iat Reef, lying E. by S. | S. 85 miles from Tanjong Lyang,
has but 6 ft. water over it.

Circe Reef, discovered by H.N.M. schooner Circe, has 2^ fathoms over it,
and 6 or 7 fathoms around it. From the reef the hill on Lyang Point bears
W. by N. J N., Simbang Island N.W. \ W., and the hill on Tanjong Riah
S.W. I s.

At full and change it is high water in Liat Bay at 5 p.m., and the rise of
tide is 9 ft.

Approaching Liat Bay from the northward, 5^ or 6 fathoms will be
found at 2 miles from Lyang Point, and in a southerly direction towards the
anchorage.

Coming from the eastward, and being in 10 and 11 fathoms, bring Riah.
Point S.W. by W , and keep towards it till Lyang Point is N.W. by W. l W.,
then steer W.N.W. and W. by N. towards the anchorage. A rock is marked
on the charts If mile S.S.E. from Lyang Point and a mile off shore; the
anchorage recommended is southward of the rock in 4^- or 4 fathoms water.

The Coast from Tanjong Dyang runs N.N.W. to Tanjong Tuen, in lat.
1° ;i5i' S., which has a hill on it, and there are several hills further inland.
Close to the point is Pongoh Islet, which can be approached to half a mile.
The coast to the southward of it forms a very shallow bay, in which, at about
6 miles S.S.E. from Tanjong Tuen, is a small island named Pulo Simbang.
This part of the coast may be approached to 13 fathoms, and even less.

The coast from Tanjong Tuen runs about N.W. by W. for 10^ miles to
Tanjong Crassok or Moncudu, ihQ northernmost point of Banka, where it turns
sharply to the westward. A reef, with only 7-^- ft. water, lies about 1^ mile
from the shore, and nearly midway between Tanjong Crassok and Cape Tuen.

264 DANGEES NOETH OF GASPAR STRAIT.

From the shoal, Crassock Point bears W. by N. f N., Pulo Pongoh off Cape
Tuen S.E. J S.. and Pakoe Point S. by E. A second reef is marked at 3
miles S.E. by E. from Tanjong Crassok. Nearly a mile off shore, distant
2 J miles W. by N. from Tanjong Crassok, is the small island of Moncudu,
before described, page 226.

DANGERS NORTHWARD AND NORTH-WESTWARD OF
GASPAR STRAIT.

CANNING ROCK, in lat. 2° 23' S., long. 107° 13' E., on which, in April,
1825, the East India Company's ship of that name struck on returning from
China, lies directly in the route of vessels proceeding towards Gaspar Strait,
and therefore is very dangerous, there being only 3 fathoms on it, with 17
to 20 fathoms close-to. From the spot where this ship grounded, Gaspar
Island bore W. by S. 10 miles ; Brekat Point S.W. by W. | W. ; the hum-
mock near that point S.W. by W. J W. ; the summit of Mendanao Island
S.S.E. ; and Hoog Island S. by E. ^E.

The danger consists of many coral heads, extending N.E. and S.W. about
100 yards, and East and West 60 yards. As it is greatly in the way of
vessels coming from the northward toward the strait, Gaspar Island ought
to be made bearing well to the southward, and should be approached within
5 miles, or nearer, before it is brought to bear W.S.W., in order to give a
wide berth to this danger.

Sowerby Shoal, seen by Capt. J. Sowerby, of the ship Montmorency, April
1st, 1861, with apparently not more than 2 fathoms water over it; by good
cross bearings the middle peak of Mount Tebalo (North end of Billiton
Island) bore S. 32° E., and peak of Gaspar Island S. 66° W., which places
it in lat. 2° 13' S., and about long. 107° 35' E. (or 107° 28'). This shoal is
about 3 miles long N.W. and S.E., and a third of a mile broad, and is very
dangerous, as it lies right in the track of vessels beating out of the Stolze
Channel to the northward in the northerly monsoon.

Pare Joie Shoal. — A rock was marked doubtful on the charts, with the
peak of Gaspar Island bearing S.S.E. | E. 6J miles, and Tree Island
S. by W. f W. 9 miles. It is probably the same as that on which the Pare
Joie struck in 1869. It is now placed in lat. 2° 19' S., long. 107° 3' E., or
nearly 3 miles eastward of the position assigned to the doubtful danger.
From the Pare Joie Shoal the summit of Gaspar Island bears S. i E., distant
5 miles, and Tree Island S.W. by S. 10 miles distant.

Warren Hastings Reef is supposed to extend about Z\ miles N. by W.
and S. by E., and to have but 2 to 9 ft. water over it in some places. In
1788 the Warren Hastings, returning from China, grounded upon the S.E.
projecting point of this reef, having a short time previously had regular
soundings from 20 to 22 fathoms. Under the stem there were only 2 ft.

BELVEDERE SHOALS. 265

•vrater, 4 fathoms amidships ; the high land of Banka bore S.W. by W., the
most distant visible land S.S.W. and S.W. by W. ^ W., the centre of Gas-
par Island S.E. by E. | E., Tree Island, S. by E. ^ E., the latitude by the
sun's meridian altitude being 2' 23' S. On examining the shoal with the
boat there were in some places 3 and IJ fathoms. In 1845 the English ves-
sel Gondolier was wrecked on this reef. The French vessel Joseph places it in
2° 21' S., and 106^ 56' 45" E., with the centre of Gaspar Island S.E. by E. ;
Belvedere Eock, N.N.E. ; and the wreck of the Gondolier S.S.W.

Chrysolite Roch, said to lie If mile eastward of the southern part of Warren
Hastings Eeef, is stated by Dutch authority not to exist. The following
account is given of it : — " On the 10th of September, 1851, the Chrysolite,
of Liverpool, while working between the Belvedere and Warren Hastings
Shoals, saw a rock, which apparently did not carry more than 4 ft. water,
with Tree Island bearing S. | E. ; Brekat Point S.S.W. ^ W. ; and the
centre of Gaspar Island E. by S."

Columbian Shoalis marked doubtful on the chart, N. by W. J W., distant
14 miles from Brekat Point, from the following report by Capt. G. Wakem,
of the ship Columbian, who stated that his vessel struck upon it in April,
1845, but without being brought up, although the reef had not more than
10 ft. water upon it. Anchored immediately with Gaspar Island E. by S.
distant 16 miles, and Tree Island S.E. by E. i E. 12 miles. The next day
the vessel was left in a sinking condition.

Belvedere Shoals. — The south-western end of these shoals is a reef under
water, in lat. 2° 14' S., long. 106^ 59' E., and from it Gaspar Peak bears
S.S.E. ^ E., distant 11 miles ; from thence they extend to the north-eastward
4^ miles. Near their middle is a sand-bank awash ; there are besides on
them many coral patches with 6 to 10 ft. water, and on their north-eastern
extreme a black rock 10 ft. high and 40 ft. long. When there is a heavy
swell the sea breaks on them, and by day they may easily be avoided by a
good lookout, particularly as some of the patches are dry at low water. How-
ever, a vessel from New York was wrecked on these shoals, and shortly after-
wards a Chinese junk. It was probably their breakers which were observed
from the ITawk in 1785, bearing N.E. 6 miles, and E. by N. 3 miles, Gaspar
Island S.S.E. ^ E., and part of Banka S.W.

A reef was discovered lying N.N. W. 3f miles from the Belvedere Eock,
also 17 miles distant from Gaspar Island, and 28 miles from Brekat Point, on
Banka Island. The position given is in lat. 2° 8' S., long. 107° 1' 15" E.

Dutch. Shoal {Vansittart Shoal), lies in lat. 2° lOJ' S., long. 106° 44' E.,
with the peak of Gaspar Island bearing about S.E. by E., distant 24 miles.

The Vamittart, Capt. Lestock Wilson, struck on this shoal, and was with
great difficulty run upon a sandy beach of Banka, to save the lives of the crew.

K shoal oi& ft. water is marked on the Dutch chart N.W., distant 11|
miles from the Dutch shoal.

I. A. 2h

266 DANGERS NORTH OF GASPAR STRAIT.

Magdalen Reef, discovered in November, 1806, by the American vessel
MagdaleUy is very dangerous in thick weather for vessels bound to Gaspar
Strait from the northward, for when the reef was first seen the vessel was
only half a cable's length from it. The boat found it to consist of two coral
rocks, about 160 yards in length and 30 yards in breadth, with deep water
between them, 1 1 ft. upon them, and at half a cable's length from the shoal
19 to 21 fathoms.

Capt. Ross, in 1818, determined the position of this reef to be lat. 1°59'S.,
long. 107° r E., the peak of Gaspar Island bearing from it S. | E., distant
nearly 26 miles.

Lanrick or Newland Shoal, with only 9 ft. water over it, lies 8 or 9 miles
northward of the Magdalen Shoal. The clipper brig Lanrich, Capt. T. B.
White, struck upon this shoal in 1852 ; and the ship u4s?'a, Capt. Newland, in
October, 1853. Both vessels took great pains to determine its exact position,
and the mean of their observations places the danger in lat. 1° 52' S., long.
107° r 30" E. Capt. White says : — " It is of very small extent, and exceed-
ingly dangerous, the soundings giving no warning, for the next morning at
anchor, and not more than IJ mile from its position, the boats after a two
hours' search could not find, nor did they see any discoloured water, or get
less than 17 fathoms." Capt. Newland remarks also that no discoloured
water could be seen at the distance of a mile from the shoal.

Atwick Rock was discovered by an English vessel of that name, in August
1831. Its position was given in lat. 1° 48' S., long. 107° 30' E., or N.N.E. | E.
44 J miles from Gaspar Island.

Pratt Rock, in lat. 1° 32' S., long. 107° 26' E., is described as dangerous,
extending N. and S. half a mile, and apparently level with the water's edge,
having a rock (or dead tree, many of which were floating about) on its
northern end.

Catharine Reef -^diS dii^covexedi in 1840, by the ship Catharine, which an-
chored at 1 p.m. in lat. 1° 31' S., long. 107° 1' E., in 18 fathoms water. They
observed breakers in a N.N.E. ^ E, direction, at half a mile distant, on a
reef which seemed to extend about 3 miles E. by S. Though the vessel re-
mained at anchor till 5 p.m., it does not appear that any further observations
were made. Its position is marked doubtful on the charts.

ActaeonRock. — H.M.S. Actceon, when proceeding to the northward through
Gaspar Strait, passed Gaspar Island at sunset, July 7th, 1857, and at mid-
night, running 8 knots, struck on an unknown coral reef, which, when ex-
amined the next day, was found to be between 2 and 3 cables' lengths in
extent, steep-to, with patches of 7 ft. on it, and 17 fathoms all around. Its
position is lat. 1° 39' 48" S., long. 106° 37' 58" E., or East about 8 miles from
the Severn Shoal. The land was observed from the masthead, whereas from
the Severn Shoal the hills on Banka are said to have the appearance of
separate islands.

SEVEEN SHOAL— CELESTIAL EEEFS. 267

Severn Shoal, discovered in May, 1802, by the American ship Severn, lies
exactly in the track of vessels from Toty Island towards Gaspar Strait. It
is placed on the chart in lat. V 39' S., long 106° 30' E., but from the follow-
ing account its exact position is very doubtful.

At sunset, Gaspar Peak bore S.E. f S., 14 miles distant. From this
situation the Severn steered N.W. ^ N. 35 miles, and at daybreak struck on
a coral reef, but got ojff after being lightened of 30 tons of ballast. The reef
seemed to extend 2 or 3 miles N.N.E. and S.S.W., but where the vessel
grounded there were 10 ft. water. The hills on Banka had the appearance
of separate Islands, above which the Marass Mountain was visible, and the
nearest land was computed to be about 20 miles distant. The Columhian, of
New York, was wrecked on this shoal in March, 1824, when returnino- from
China. The crew reached the harbour of Mintok in the long-boat, after
having suffered much from deprivation and fatigue.

Ivon Shoal,^ with 2f fathoms water over it, appears on the charts at 7 miles
West of the Severn Shoal, in lat. 1° 39' S., long. 106° 21' E. Like the Severn
and Actseon Shoals, it is much in the way of vessels passing between Graspar
Strait and Toty Island. A douhtful danger is marked at 3 miles AV. by S. of it.

Scheweningen Shoal. — The ship Scheweningen struck on an unknown bank
in lat. 1° 19- 12' S., long. 106° 39' 48" E., about 14 leagues E. by N. from
Crassock Point, the North extremity of Banka Island. Immediately after
the ship struck, a sounding of 4 fathoms was obtained, and a second sound-
ing showed a depth of 15 fathoms.

Celestial Reefs. — The American ship Celestial saw abed of rocks under water
in lat. r 16' S., long. 106° 50' E. ; sounded in 3 fathoms, but there appeared
to be less water on the rocks ; the next cast of the lead was 17 fathoms.

Vega Shoal was discovered in September, 1826, by Capt, Jose Antonio de
Vega, of the Spanish frigate Vellos, which struck on it, but by carrying out
an anchor she was hove off. It was described as being not more than a ship's
length in extent, with 18 to 21 ft. water over it, and 9, 11, 17, and 22 fathoms
around it. Capt. de Vega placed it in lat. 1° 10' S., long. 106° 34' E., by
chronometers regulated the day previously at Gaspar Island.

The barque Marquis of Hastings, Capt. Ingram, grounded upon this bank
in May, 1830, who placed it in lat. 1° 6' S., and 106° 31i' E., by chronome-
ters. Horsburg says that this ship struck on this shoal in April, 1832, and
that Mr. Harris made it at the same time in 1° 4' S. and 106= 37' E.

H.M.S. Rifleman, in December, 1863, was employed with her tender for
three days in searching for the Vega Shoal, but without success. A small
rocky patch, with 7 fathoms water over it, and 13, 15, and 17 fathoms all
around, was discovered in lat. 1° 5' 30' S., long. 106' 35 J' E. Bad weather
compelled the Rifleman to relinquish the search.

A southerly current, varying from 1 to 1 J knots an hour, was experienced
the whole time the Rifleman remained in this vicinity.

268 GASPAE STEAIT.

Hawkins, or Wild Pigeon Shoal, we have no account of, and its position is
also very doubtful. On the chart three positions are given : the first in lat,
r 8' S., long. 106° 43' E. ; the second in lat. 1° 9', long. 106° 41^, with two
fathoms marked against it ; and the third in lat. 1° 1 1', and the same longi-
tude as the second position.

Deva Eeef.— The ship Deva, Captain J. Pollock, at 5*> 30™ p.m. 23rd May,
1859, struck on a coral reef in about lat. 1° 9' S., long. 106° 52' E. The reef
appeared to be about 60 yards in extent, N.E. and S.W., about 30 yarda
broad, with 3 J fathoms on it, and 15 and 17 fathoms close-to. At daylight
the next morning two reefs were in sight from the masthead ; the one the
vessel grounded on, and the other, which was much the largest, considerably
to the westward.

Caution. — Probably the Deva and the Celestial are the same reefs, but
until examined, this neighbourhood must be navigated with great caution ;
and the whole group of the Vega, Hawkins, Celestial, and Deva Shoals,
should be given a berth of 9 or 10 miles.

DIRECTIONS FROM GASPAR STRAIT TO THE NORTHWARD.— Most
vessels bound to the northward from Gaspar Strait, prefer passing eastward
of Gaspar Island, which is the safest route ; but some vessels, especially when
bound to Singapore by Ehio Strait, prefer the less safe but more direct
route through the shoals westward of that island.

To proceed Eastward of Gaspar Island with a fair wind, as before directed
in pages 239, 240, and 256, 257, steer about N. by E. ^ E. if she passed
through Macclesfield Channel, or about N. by W. or N.N.W. if she passed
through either Stolze or Clements Channels, to pass 2 or 3 miles eastward of
Gaspar Island, and 5 or 6 miles westward of Canning Rock. Having passed
Gaspar, steer to the northward until it bears S. f "W., upon which bearing it
should be kept as long as it can be seen. A N. | E. course from Gaspar will
lead midway between Catharine Reef and Pratt Eock, and if Gaspar be
brought on the opposite bearing soon after it is passed, it will afford a good
opportunity to judge of the effect of the current, by noting the course that
must be steered to preserve the proper bearing of the island ; and will also
assist in forming a judgment as to the proper course to steer to pass midway
between Catharine Eeef and Pratt Eock, after Gaspar Island has sunk below
the horizon, and will no longer serve as a guide.

If the wind should prevent a direct course from being steered, Gaspar
Island should not be brought westward of N.N.W., until the vessel is north-
ward of the Akbar Shoal ; and, after Gaspar is passed, it must be kept west-
ward of S. by W., in order to avoid the Pare Joie Eock, the Belvedere,
and the Magdalen Shoals.

To proceed Westward of Gaspar Island between the Glassa Eock and Tree
Island, from a position midway between them, steer to the northward until
the peak of Gaspar Island bears S.E. j when a N.W. course will lead be-

DIRECTIONS. 269

tween the Warren Hastings Reef on the port hand, and tlie Pare Joie
Rock and Belvedere Shoals on the starboard hand. When Brekat Point
bears S. by W., or the Saddles S. W. by S., a vessel will be westward of the
Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, and a N. by W. or N.N.W. course,
according to the set of the tide, will lead westward of the Magdalen and
Newland Reefs, and eastward of the Actseon Rock. When nearing the
Actaeon Rock, the soundings should not be shoaled under 20 fathoms ;
after passing it, a course may be shaped for Toty Island.

Gaspar Island, when 3 or 4 miles distant, kept between S.E. and S.E. by
E. i E., will keep the vessel clear of the Pare Joie Rock, and of the Warren
Hastings Reef.

Brekat Point bearing S. by W., or the Saddles S.W. by S., leads westward
of the Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, and Gaspar Island S.E.,
leads 3 miles eastward of the Dutch Shoal ; but when westward of the
Warren Hastings and Belvedere Shoals, it will be wise to edge away to the
northward — always carefully guarding against tide and currents — taking
care not to bring Gaspar Peak to the South of S. by E. ^ E., to avoid the
Magdalen Reef.

If proceeding between B*-ekat Point and Tree Island, the point may be passed
at the distance of 3 or 2 miles, and the island at a mile ; then proceed to the
N.N.W., taking care not to bring Tree Island to the South of S.E. by S., to
avoid the S.W. end of Warren Hastings Reef. Brekat Point bearing S. by
W. \ W., leads clear to the N.W. extreme of that reef ; and bearing S. J E.
leads eastward of the reported positions of the Columbian and Dutch Shoals.
When Brekat Point bears S. i W., a northerly course may be steered, pro-
ceeding as before to pass eastward of the Actseon Rock.

Horsburgh states that Capt. R. Scott, in the Warren Kastings, after passing'
Brekat Point, coasted along to the northward, keeping generally in 11 or 12
fathoms water, without any appearance of danger, but a good mast-head
lookout was kept. The passage, bowever, near the Banka coast is so beset
with dangers, whose exact positions are unknown, and there may be others
of which we at present know nothing, that we would strongly advise vessels
to give this exceedingly dangerous coast a wide berth, especially as nothing
is to be gained by approaching it. At p. 262 directions are given to proceed
along this coast to Tanjoing Riah.

Directions to approacli Gaspar Strait from the Northward. — In consequence
of the northern entrance of Gaspar Strait being so near the equator, the
winds, even in the strength of the monsoon, are very uncertain, producing
a corresponding uncertainty in the direction and force of the tides and cur-
rents. A vessel approaching the strait from the northward will, therefore,
bave to be principally guided by the winds and currents which she may
herself fall in with, rather than by relying upon experiencing those which
are here mentioned as most likely to be met with at certain seasons.

270 GASPAE STRAIT.

In the early part of the monsoon, that is, from the middle of November
to the middle or end of December, northerly and north-westerly winds are
said to prevail, but Horsburgh mentions an instance of vessels meeting with
strong West and W.S.W. winds in December. As the monsoon gathers
strength and becomes more regular, the wind draws to the eastward of
North, and late in the monsoon, easterly and south-easterly winds are often
met with between Banka and Billiton.

In thick weather it will always be an anxious time for the navigator
whilst approaching Gaspar Strait, for unless good sights can be obtained,
he can never be certain of his exact position ; and we would again strongly
advise him, under any circumstances, to steer for Banka Strait, where the
soundings on the edge of the bank extending from the Sumatra coast will
enable him to proceed with safety, although he may be quite unable to
distinguish the land.

Vessels returning from Singapore or China early in the northern monsoon,
and intending to go through Gaspar Strait, prefer the Macclesfield Channel,
passing between Toty and Docan Islands; but it is better to go 12 or 14
miles to the eastward of the latter, and even more, when the wind is easterly ;
but early in the monsoon the wind is generally North or N.W.

Having passed Toty Island, steer about S.E. by E., so as to get on the
meridian of Caspar Island before reaching the parallel of 1° 50' S. Caspar
is visible in clear weather at a distance of 30 miles. Directly it is seen, steer
towards it on a S. f W. bearing, and, passing eastward of it, steer to the
south-westward for the entrance of the Macclesfield Channel.

The above directions apply only to vessels returning from China early in
the monsoon. In general, and especially returning late in the monsoon from
China, when the S.E. and easterly winds are often met with between Banka
and Billiton, it will be better to go 10 or 12 miles to the westward of St.
Barbe Island, and endeavour as soon as possible to get on the meridian of
Gaspar Island, but not to the westward of it when near the parallel of the
Catharine Eeef, which should never be passed at night. When Gaspar is
seen, bring it on a S. | W. bearing, and proceed as before.

Eeturning from China late in the monsoon, S.S.W. winds are often met in
the southern part of the China Sea, and oblige vessels to pass between the
islands near the West coast of Borneo. If this should happen in May or
June, it would be very tedious to get to the southward ; in such case, steer
for the north-western end of Billiton, and pass through Stolze Channel.

CHAPTEE YII.

CARIMATA STRAIT.

Carimata Strait, the easternmost of the channels leading between Sumatra
and Borneo, is bounded on the eastern side by Carimata, Soruetou, and the
other islands adjacent to the southern part of the West coast of Borneo ;
and on the western side by the East coast of Billiton, with the adjoining
islands and dangers. It is often used by vessels from Malacca Strait, pro-
ceeding to China by the eastern passages, but although much broader than
either Banka or Caspar Straits, it is not nearly so much frequented as either
of those channels by vessels proceeding to and from China by way of Sunda
Strait. It is, however, not unfrequently used by vessels returning from
China, which, from the effects of winds or currents, find it difficult to get to
the westward.

This strait has not been properly surveyed. Capts. Ross and Maughan,
of the Indian Navy, determined the positions of many of the dangers on each
side of it, but much of the information which we possess has been derived
from accounts furnished by vessels that have passed through it. In using it,
therefore, a vessel must keep a good lookout, and be as far as possible pre-
pared to meet with unknown dangers.

Besides the Main Channel, limited to the south-eastward by the islands of
Soruetou and Carimata, and to the south-westward by the Montaran Islands
and Billiton, there are several other channels between the numerous islands
lying eastward and north-eastward of Carimata, between it and the Borneo
coast, through which vessels have occasionally passed. One of these, known
as the Inner Channel, and situated between the islands of Panambungan and
Mayang, is much frequented by vessels working through the strait against
the monsoon, for a regular tide will be found near the Borneo coast, which
enables them to work through the Inner Channel when it is quite impossible
to work tlirough the Main Channel against a strong monsoon, and a con-
tinuous rapid current setting to leeward.

Currents and Tides. — The currents in Carimata Strait appear to set mostly

272 CARIMATA STRAIT.

to the southward in the northerly monsoon, for many ships have found it
almost impracticable to beat to the northward in that season. Captain Ross,
in the Discovery, found a constant southerly current in this stuait ; on Febru-
ary 15th he was off Pulo Mankap, and from hence continued beating along
the West coast of Borneo, and afterwards on the South and West sides of
Carimata and its adjacent islands until March 16th, when he got round the
western end of Soruetou. In the southerly monsoon it does not appear to
be so difficult to get to the southward, for there are regular tides along the
West coast of Borneo, and also oflf the East coast of Billiton in this season,
which seem to extend in some degree across Carimata Strait, the flood appa-
rently setting 12 hours to the northward, and the ebb about 12 hours in the
opposite direction. The rise of tide, as experienced by Captain Ross, was
about 9 or 10 ft., at full and change of the moon.

A DESCRIPTION of that portion of the dangers southward of Billiton,
which lie contiguous to Gaspar Strait, in given at page 250. The following
islands and dangers lie nearer Carimata Strait, and are important to vessels
approaching it from the southward.

KEBATOE, or SHOE ISLAND, in lat. 3° 48' S., long. 108° 4' E., is nearly
half a mile long in an East and West direction, and 400 yards broad ; it is
conical in shape, thickly wooded, 346 ft. high, and visible 18 or 19 miles
from a ship's deck in clear weather. The island is steep-to, with a coast or
fringing reef extending 1 cable from the North and West sides ; and half a
cable from the South and East sides. White Island, 57 ft. high, having a
few stunted trees on the top, lies S.W. 1 mile from Kebatoe Island. A small
shoal, with 6 ft. water, lies N.E. | E., 3 cables from White Island.

Zephyr Hock, supposed to lie W. J S., 4 miles from Kebatoe Island, was
searched for by the boats of H.M.S. Nassau in 1876, when a depth of
14 fathoms (mud bottom) was obtained in that position ; but, at three-
quarters of a mile W. by S. from Kebatoe, and 6 cables N.N. W. \ W. from
White Island, a rock, on which the sea generally breaks, having 3 feet over
it, was found, and this position has been assumed for that of the Zephyr
Rock.

A roch, said to exist N.W. by W. ^ W., 8 miles distant from Kebatoe
Island, was carefully searched for by the boats of H.M.S. Nassau, but could
not be found. The depth of 14 fathoms, mud bottom, was obtained. From
the nature of the examination non-existence of the rock in the position
assigned to it is assured.

Karang Kawat, or Grace Reefs, consist of two coral reefs, the centres of
which lie N.E. by N. 4^, and 6^ miles respectively from Kebatoe Island.

The southern reef, on which the sea breaks heavily in moderate weather,
is awash at low water ; this reef is 3| cables long in an East and West
direction, and 2 cables broad, with 12 to 17 fathoms at the distance of three-
quarters of a cable. The northern reef is 3 cables long in an East and West

SOUTH COAST OF BILLITON. 273

direction, 2 cables broad, dries 4 ft. at low water, and has 13 to 16 fathoms
at the distance of half a cable.

Between Kebatoe Island and the southern Karang Kawat there is a clear
channel 3f miles wide, with depths of 14 to 17 fathoms, mud bottom ; and
between the southern and northern Karang Kawats there is a channel If
mile wide, having also 14 to 17 fathoms, mud ; the holding ground in both
these channels is good.

A ship ought never to attempt the passage inside Shoe Island, except in
very clear and favourable weather.

Heroine Shoal is in lat. 3° 37' S., long, about 107° 52' E., or in lat. 3° 37'
S., long. 107° 49' E. ; its exact position is, however, doubtful, and it was not
seen by the officers of H.M.S. Nassau in 1876. It is reported to be an ex-
tensive shoal with breakers upon it. It was passed at about the distance of
1^ mile, when Two-peaked Mountain on Billiton bore N.N.W. ; a small
island N.E. by E. ^ E. ; and shoe Island, seen from the mizen-shrouds, S.E.
Katapang Island, in lat. 3° 23' S., long. 107° 57^' E., is low and wooded,
about a third of a mile in diameter, and surrounded by a reef. Around it
are soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms, and the same depths between it and the
shore, where, however, no vessel should venture.

The whole of the coasts of Billiton are but very imperfectly known, but it
is certain that they are fronted by many dangers, and vessels are strongly
fidviaed to avoid them.

SOUTH COAST of BILLITON.— From Karawang Point, the S.W. ex-
treme of Billiton, the coast trends to the eastward for 2 or 3 miles, and then
turns sharply to the north-eastward, forming a deep bay, the eastern horn
of which is the most southern point of the island, and is distant 21 miles
eastward from Karawang Point. This bay is named Teloh Batoh, which in
the Malay language signifies rocky bay, and it appears from the chart to be
full of dangers, with others extending some 2 or 3 miles outside its chord.
Southward and westward from the eastern horn of the bay are some small
islets lying within the margin of the reef which projects from the j)oint.

EAST COAST.— From the eastern point of Telok Batoh Bay the coast
trends East-northerly for 6 or 7 miles, to the S.E. point of the island, 9 or 10
miles N.E. of which is a prominent point named Sakapar. Between these
two latter points is a bay, in which are several islands ; and fronting it are
also several islands. N. by E. i E. 17 miles from Sakapar Point is Mangar
Point, having a hill upon it, the coast between forming a bay 2 or 3 miles
deep. Northward of Mangar Point is another small bay.

The East and N.JE. sides of Billiton are fronted by several groups of small
islands, most of them being surrounded with or connected by rocks, sands,
and shoals ; the outernmost of these shoals has been recently reported in
25° 9' S, 108° 21' E., or 13i miles N.E. by E. from Sakapar Point.

I. A. 2n

274 CAEIMATA STRAIT.

These dangers are so imperfectly known, that it is not possible to give
any accurate description of them here. They do not lie in the track of
ordinary navigation, and if a vessel ventures near them she must do so with
caution and judgment, and without placing too great confidence in the

chart.

SCHARVOGEL ISLANDS are a group of seven islands, the easternmost
of which by the chart is in lat. 3° 18' S., long. 108° 28' E. The islands are
from 90 to 120 ft. high, and thickly wooded, having between them numerous
reefs and sandbanks. The relative positions of these islands with each
other is uncertain. Between the northern island and the Meray group is a
channel 3 or 4 miles wide, with 5 to 9 fathoms water in it. It is bounded on
either side by the reefs which extend northward from the islands.

Northern Coasts of Billiton. — From the N.E. point of Billiton the coast
rounds gradually to the North, and then takes a general direction about
N.W. by W. to the N.W. Hook or Point. The aspect of the coast is high,
uneven land, visible in clear weather 24 or 25 miles off.

Outer Bangers off the North Coast of Billiton. — Pigeon Island, lying 3 or 4
miles off the coast, with the N.E. extreme of Billiton bearing S.E. by S.,
and the N.W. hill on Nangka Island E. by N. h N., distant 21 miles, is very
small, and surrounded by rocks or patches of reef, which also extend 3 miles
to the south-eastward of it. About N.E. by E. i E. 5 miles from the island,
a small sandhanh was seen by the Bellhaven in 1857, probably at high water.
A small rock or patch, with 2 fathoms water over it, is placed on the chart,
N.N.E., 7 miles from the Pigeon Island, and a second at the same distance
E.N.E. of it. At 5 miles eastward of Pigeon Island is the "West end of a
sandbank, which thence extends for 5 miles to the E.S.E., with an average
breadth of 2^ miles. On one spot on its N.E. side, in lat. 2° 37' S., long.
108° 18' E., it is reported to dry.

There are other islets and dangers between Pigeon Island and the N.W.
point of Billiton ; their exact positions, however, are not well known.

Krang Island lies 13 miles West from Pigeon Island, and 3 miles off shore,
N.N.W. 2 miles from it, is a sandbank. Bjoeroh Bajong Rocks lie 2 miles
West from the sandbank, and 2 miles N.N.E. from Maleh Island. The
Eijdrograf Rod, of 9 ft., 6 miles off shore, is marked in 2° 28' S., 107° 53' E.,
at 5J miles N.W. of it is a rock recently discovered in 1877, the outermost
off this coast. At 3 miles West of the Hydrograf Eock is a 3-fathom patch,
and W.S.W. 5J miles from the 3-fathom patch is the Seloeting Eeef, of 2
fathoms, which lies N.E. I E. 8 miles from Cape Bienga, the N.W. cape of
Billiton.

( 275 )

ISLANDS AND DANQEES IN THE FAIEWAY.

Discovery West Bank {Ayer Masein), in lat. 3° 38' S., long. 108° 44' 30"
E., was examined by Captain Eoss, I.N., in the surveying ship Discovery.
It is of coral, about 6 cables in extent North and South, and 2 cables
broad, having near its western edge a small sandbank, awash at high-water
springs. There are depths of 16 to 20 fathoms around Discovery West bank
at a distance of three-quarters of a cable.

Discovery Reef lies N.E. by E. J E. 5i miles from Discovery West Bank,
and is in lat. 3° 35' 45" S., long. 108° 49' 25" E. ; this reef is 2 cables in di-
ameter, having several coral heads awash at high water, and 14 to 22 fa-
thoms around it at the distance of 1 cable.

Discovery East Bank* {Mampango), in lat. 3° 34' 40" S., long. 109° 12' 35"
E., is A^ cables long in a North and South direction, and 1 J cable broad,
having in its centre a decayed white coral ridge 2 cables long, a few yards
broad, and 5 ft. above high water ; there are 14 to 24 fathoms, sand, around
this bank, at a distance of 1 cable. Discovery East Bank is visible from
aloft on a clear day at a distance of 7 to 8 miles.

Lavender Bank {Byuruh), in lat. 3° 24' S., long. 109° 1' 30" E., was dis-
covered by Captain Lavender, of the ship Rotnan, who passed it bearing East
about a quarter of a mile distant, in soundings from 20 to 26 fathoms. It
is 7 cables long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 2 cables broad. It
is composed of coral, with several large boulders awash at high water.
Around this bank there is a depth of 20 fathoms, sand and shells, at the
distance of a cable. During a south-easterly breeze the sea on Lavender
Bank has been observed from aloft to break at a distance of 6 miles.

Cirencester Sandbank {Batmn), in lat. 3° Hf S., long. 108° 59' E., is
about half a mile in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 1 cable broad. It is
chiefly composed of live coral heads, with 1 to 3 fathoms between them ; at
1^ cable within the northern extreme of this bank there is a flat circular
patch of dead coral awash at low-water springs, 1 cable wide, having on its
western edge a boulder awash at high water. The depth of water increases
towards the bank, there being 25 fathoms close off the North end, 32 fathoms
off the South end, and 35 fathoms about three-quarters of a mile to the west-
ward ; with a good lookout it may be seen from the mast-head about 8 miles
at low water, but probably not above 3 or 4 at high tide. Two miles east-

* From the following remarks in possession of Captain Stephen Stocker, R.N., who was
mate of H.M.S. Hecate in 1813, it would appear that this bank was discovered by that
vessel:— "Steering to the southward out of Carimata Strait, we discovered a dry sand-
bank, 12 or 13 ft. above water, in about lat. 3' 40' S., long. 109» 4' E. Passed about three-
quarters of a mile eastward of it, and had soundings of 21 to 25 fathoms."

276 CAEIMATA STEAIT.

ward of the bank the Cirencester had very irregular soundings, from 1 6 to 20
fathoms, changing at almost every cast of the lead.

Shoal. — Captain Irwin, of the Arica, in 1869, intending to lay-to for the
night, southward of Scharvogel Islands, came suddenly close to a rock, from
50 to 60 ft. long, the shoalest part having about 6 ft. water, from that to 18
feet over the remainder. Position, South from the South Island and S. by
W. I W. from the eastern islet, in about lat. 3° 31' S., long. 108° 25' E.

Bower Shoal, discovered by H.M.S. Nassau in 1876, is in lat. 3° 28' 45" S.,
long. 108° 40' 30" E. It is a coral patch, three-quarters of a cable in extent?
having 9 ft. water on it, and 9 to 1 1 fathoms close around.

Osterly North and South Shoals were examined by H.M.S. Discovery, and
afterwards, in 1874, by Lieut W. Pearce, in H.M.S. Sylvia. Osterly South
Shoal, in lat. 3° 19' S., long. 108° 37' E., is 2 cables in extent North and
South, with 6 to 12 ft. water on it. and 10 to 14 fathoms close around; near
the centre of the shoal there is a white dead coral islet, about 40 ft. long,
and 3 ft. above high water. Osterly North Shoal, situated about 19 cables
N.E. from the islet on Osterly South Shoal, is about a quarter of a mile in
extent, awash at low water, and has from 10 to 15 fathoms close around.
By day this shoal may be distinguished from the greenish tint of the water ;
but at night it is exceedingly dangerous to vessels passing eastward of the
Scharvogel Islands. In the vicinity of these shoals the ebb tide was observed
to set to the southward, and the flood to the northward.

The Discovery anchored in 1 1 fathoms, soft ground, with North Shoal East 2
miles, when the boat had from 5 to 7 fathoms rocks on another shoal, bear-
ing S. h W. from the ship about a quarter of a mile. From the Discovery
the extremes of the Scharvogel Group bore "W. 15i° S. to W. 15° N., the
nearest island distant about 8 miles, and a high distant hill N.W. When
Discovery was anchored in the above position, breakers were seen from the
mast-head bearing S.S.E. distant about 4 miles (?), on what is named Osterly
South Shoal. Many eddies were also seen around.

Cirencester Rock, or Shoal, in lat. 2° 54|^' S., long. 108° 56' E., was seen
by the Cirencester on the same day that she discovered the sand-bank de-
scribed above. The least depth found upon it was 2 fathoms at low water,
and there is probably 3^ fathoms on it at high tide ; close around the sound-
ings were 17, 16, and 15 fathoms. The shoal is narrow, and not more than
100 yards in length, North and South. It was not discovered by the boats
sounding for it until the rocks were seen under the bottom.

Admiral Protet Reef, Sfc. — A reef, with about 6 or 7 ft. water, lies near the
assigned but doubtful position (2° 58f S., 108° 34^' E., or 3° S., 108° 30' E.)
of a shoal named Admiral Protet ; from it Slandak Island bears W. f S., and
Liendorg, one of the Scharvogel Islands, S.S.AV. ; the position given is in
lat. 2^ 59' S., lung. 108° 38' E.

MONT ARAN ISLANDS. 277

MONTARAN ISLANDS, lying off the N.E. part of BilHton, consist of
three straggling groups, which, with the many dangers that lie near them,
are very imperfectly known, and appear to be most inaccurately laid dowa
upon the chart. The navigator is therefore cautioned to be very vigilant
when near these islands. Lieut. W. Pearce, R.N., examined East Island,
Catherine Eeef, and Small Island, in H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1874.

Nangka, or Tohohemo, the largest and highest of the Montaran Islands,
has a high hill on each extreme ; and, being low in the middle, appears like
two islands till within 8 or 9 miles of it ; but it cannot be mistaken when a
vessel is 17 or 18 miles to the northward, as none of the low islands near it
are seen at that distance. Close to the North point of this high saddle island
of Nangka lies an islet covered with bushes, and they are united by a reef
which extends about 1^ mile to the northward ; a reef projects also about
half a mile from the South point of the island.

West Group. — About 2^ miles S. by E. from Nangka are three low islands,
named West Group, with apparently much broken water about them, and a
dry sand-bank about 4 miles south-eastward of them ; there is also a high
white sand-bank about 4 miles south-eastward of them.

Between West Group and Middle Group the water is shoal, and a dan-
gerous reef very little above water lies midway between them. A second
doubtful danger, named High Bank, is marked at 3 miles south-eastward of
Gampal, the southern island of the Western Group. Na/pier Island lies 4
miles W. ^ N. from Gampal; it is wooded, and 185 ft. high. Some islets
and rocks lie between 1^ and ?>h miles southward of it, and a sandbank a mile
long between 1 and 2 miles S.E. of its eastern extremity.

The Middle Group consists of four or five islands, lying from 6 to 12
miles to the eastward of the West Group. The southernmost island is in lat.
2° ;36' S., and when approached by the Fox frigate, it appeared to be in-
habited, and the water very shoal around. It appears to have been upon
one of the reefs off these islands that the Ahercromhie was lost, a fine ship of
1,200 tons burden, belonging to Bombay.

East Island, or Pesemot, at the eastern extremity of the group, was ex-
amined by Lieut. W. Pearce, in H.M.S. Si/!via, in 1874. It is in lat. 2° 29' S.,
long. 108° 51' 40" E., and about half a mile in extent North and South.
The island is of coral formation, thickly wooded, and surrounded by a sandy
beach, the trees in the centre forming a sharply pointed summit, 130 ft. high,
making the island conspicuous and easily recognised when seen from a dis-
tance. On the western side of the island rocks were seen above water about
1 cable from the shore ; there is also a sand-bank about 1 mile N. by W.
from this island. Skeletons of turtle were seen on East Island, so that it may
be assumed they visit to deposit their eggs.

A sand-hank is marked at 1 mile N. by W. from East Island.

Luctor Shoal.— The Dutch barque Ludor and Eiaerfjo touched on a reef,

278 CAEIMATA STEAIT.

from which Nangka bore West, East Island E. f N., and the westernmost
island of the Middle Group S. by E., which places the rock in lat. 2° 32' 8.,
long. 108° 44' E.

Small Island, IJ mile S.S.W. i^ W. from East Island, flat and covered
with trees in the centre, appeared to be about the same length as East
Island. The channel between these islands is said to be shallow.

Dangers Eastward of East Island. — A sand-hanh, having a few patches
above water, was seen from the Sylviah boat, about 1 mile E. by S. from
East Island ; the bank appeared about three-quarters of a mile long, in an
East and West direction, but it was not examined.

A sand-hank, according to an old report, lies S.E. by E. J E. about 4 miles
from East Island. About a hundred yards all round this bank the depths
were from 10 to 18 fathoms, shoaling suddenly towards it. In the centre of
the bank there is a coral rock (3 ft. above water.) ?

Catherine, or Evans Reef. — On December 17th, 1840, a ship, commanded
by Captain E. M. Smith, was wrecked on a coral reef, in lat. 2° 30J' S., long.
108° 59^' E. In no part was it within a fathom of the surface, and in calm
weather no breaker nor any indication of the reef could be perceived, the
current running to the N.E. 4 or 5 knots. Again, the ship Catherine, Capt.
Evans, at 2'' 15" p.m., struck on this ledge of rocks, with East Island bear-
ing W. i N., distant 8 miles, and Carimata Peak N. 4° W. It is formed of
sharp coral rocks, extends N.W. and S.E. a cable's length, and the least
water found on it was 2 fathoms. Soundings were obtained in difierent di-
rections ; they were 4 to 9 fathoms about N.W. of the ship, and to the S.E.
a little less than a cable distant. Though a strong current was setting to the
southward, there was no appearance of broken or discoloured water. Capt.
Evans places the reef in lat. 2° 31^' S., long. 108° 57' E.

Catherine or Evans Eeef was unsuccessfully searched for by the boats of
H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1874, in the position given by the master of the Catherine,
namely with East Island bearing W. ^ N., distant 8 miles, and Carimata
Peak N. 4° W. During the examination, however, a shoal, having 4^
fathoms on it and 8 to 17 fathoms close around, was found at 4^ miles E. J S.
from East Island, or in lat. 2° 31' 30" S., long. 108° 54' 30" E. (From this
position Carimata Peak bears N. 3x° W.) Although 4^ fathoms was the
least depth obtained by the Sylvia, it was considered probable that less
water might be found. Also, that other shoal ground existed in the neigh-
bourhood.

Corsyra Shoal. — The Corcyra, Capt. Walison, in August, 1858, discovered
a shoal of 15 ft. water, about half a cable's length in circumference, with
Round Hill on Billiton bearing S. 57° W., and the northernmost small
island of Nangka, just open of the large one, N. 61° W. ; but those bearings
will not lay down upon the chart. Eeputed position, 2° 31' S., 108° 30' E.

Maas en Waal Shoal, discovered by the steam ship of that name, has 18 ft.

SOEUETOU ISLAND. 279

water over it. From the shoal Pulo Sambilan is in line with the South peak
of Pulo Naugka, bearing E. ^ N., distant about 6 miles. The position of
this shoal was reported as lat. 2° 32' 30" S., long. 108° 27' E. It is marked
on the Admiralty chart 6 miles westward of this position.

Condor Reef. — The ship Condor struck on this shoal, but did not stop to
examine it ; the ship, however, made water immediately after she struck.
It lies N. by E. ^ E. 8i miles from Nangka Island, in lat. 2° 22' 20" S., long.
108° 37' 15" E. Some rocks lie 8 miles S.W. of Condor Eeef.

Ontario Reef, the centre of which is in lat. 2° 1^' S., long. 108° 39' E., is
very dangerous, as it lies in the direct tract formerly recommended to ships
when passing between Soruetou and Billiton. It was discovered by Captain
Whetten, in the American ship Ontario, which was lost on it January 4th,
1799. It is composed of sharp spiral rocks, with the tops of some of them
dry at low water spring tides ; but the small break against their sharp points
cannot be distinguished from the topping of a common sea ; and the shoal
is steep-to, having 18 and 19 fathoms at a ship's length from the rocks.
From the wreck of the Ontario the north-eastern end of the Quoin (on the
western part of Soruetou) was just shut in with the western end of Sorue-
tou ; the East end of Soruetou bearing N.N.E. was open about a quarter of
a point from the West end of Carimata. No other land in sight from the
reef. The soundings are no guide in the approach to this dangerous shoal,
there being 23 and 24 fathoms close to it on the North and East sides, 18
to 25 fathoms nearly close to the rocks on the West side, and 25 fathoms
clay, at the distance of a cable's length. The shoal was examined by Capt.
Eoss, I.N., who found it half a mile in extent W.N.W. andE.S.E. ; and one
of the Montaran Islands was visible from the main-top, bearing S. 6J° W.

Waller Rock. — There is said to be a coral rock, with 3 fathoms water over
it, at 5 miles to the westward of the Ontario Eeef.

Rival Reef we have no account of. It is marked on the chart with 5J fa-
thoms over it, rocky bottom, in lat. 1° 47' S., long. 108" \bh' E.

Florence Adelaide Reef. — The British ship Florence Adelaide, bound from
Cardifi'to Singapore, in 1863, was reported to have been wrecked on a sup-
posed coral reef, lying in about lat. 2° S., long. 108° E. The reef had 16 ft,
water on it in the place where the vessel struck, but its extent and the least
depth over it was not ascertained.

Hooghly Rocks. — The master of the French ship Hooghly, in 1872, sighted
three rocks in lat. 1° 35' S., long. 108° 12' E. They bore East and West of
each other, and from the westward appeared as a haycock, a sugar-loaf, and
a small tree; the haycock, 16 ft., being the highest out of the water. The
position was determined by ooservations of the Peak of C-'rimata.

SORUETOU ISLAND, about 6 miles long East and West, 2 miles wide,
1,400 ft. high, and visible 28 or 30 miles otf, forms the north-eastern limit of
the broad main channels of Carimata Strait. The western point of the island

280 CARIMATA STRAIT.

is in lat. 1° 42i' S., long. 108° 39J' E., and on it is a hummock, which has
been mistaken for a small island, and called the Quoin, from its appearance.
About 2 or 3 miles off the West end of the island the depths are 20 to 26
fathoms.

Breakers are said to have been seen from the mast-head of the ship Aurora,
bearing S. by W. ^ W., distant about 3 miles, when the eastern extremity
of Soruetou bore E. by N. i N., the other extreme being obscured by clouds.

At a sandy beach on the South side of Soruetou, and near the East point,
there is a good watering place, but high tide is required for a large boat to
get over a reef. It is said, however, that fresh water can only be got at the
West end of the island, at the foot of a hill of moderate height, where a ship
may anchor in 10 fathoms.

CARIMATA ISLAND lies north-eastward of Soruetou, from which it is
separated by a narrow channel. It is about 11 miles in extent East and
West, 7 miles North and South, and near its centre is a peak rising to an
elevation of 2,000 or 2,986 ft., which maybe seen at the distance of about
45 miles. On the S. W. end of the island are some hot springs.

Reefs and dangers extend off the East and South coasts of Carimata ; and
at 6| miles S.S.E. from the South point of the island is a gravel patch, having
4 fathoms water over it. Two rocks above water, with others below the
surface, appear to lie 3 or 4 miles off the middle part of the West coast ; and
off the N. W. point of the island are numerous islets and rocks, the outer of
which, Tongado Island, is 3 miles westward of the point.

The channel between Soruetou and the reef which extends from the South
coast of Carimata is about 2 miles wide, with depths of 10 to 17 fathoms;
but no object is to be gained by using it.

Jamsetti Reef, with 19 ft. water over it, lies 7 miles N. by W. f W. from
the North point of Carimata Island, and N.E. J N. lOJ miles from Tongado
Island.

Leema Isles are a group of small islets lying North about 18 miles from
the northern side of Carimata ; near them the soundings are 12 to 14 fathoms.

Wellesley Shoalis said to lie in lat. 1° 18' S , long. 108^ 34J' E., but its
position is doubtful. Crescent Shoal, also of doubtful existence, is said to lie
in lat. 1° 10' S., long. 108° 38' E.

Erikson Shoal, of 4| fathoms, is placed on the chart in lat 1° 5' S.,
108" 29i' E.

China Reef. — The commander of the China reported, in 1871, that his ship
struck on a reef, 4 miles North of the last named, on which there is 10 ft. of
water. It is about a quarter of a mile long, and stretches out from N. W. to
S.E. Its position is in lat. 1° 1' 15" S., long. 108° 30' E.

GREIG SHOAL was discovered by Capt. William Greig, of the ship Lord,
Minto, who found it to extend from lat. 0° 52' to 0° 58' S., long. 108° 37' E. ;
the longitude, however, cannot be relied upon as being correct. Five fathoms

WEST COAST OF BORNEO, ETC. 281

water were found within the extent given above, but on the extremes of the
shoal the vessel was often in nearly the same depth of water as she was
drawing, 1 3 feet, and this was in steering between much shoaler spots, with
the body of Carimata then seen from the deck, bearing between S.S.E. f E.
and S.E. by S. ; the least water found was 12 ft. ; but, in a more recent ex-
amination, a spot with 8 ft. water only was found, in lat. 0' 55' 30' S., long.
108' 28' E. ; from this spot Penambungan Island bears E.S.E., and the peak
of Carimata Island S.S.E. f E. The shoal is circular in shape, and ab .ut
1^ cable in diameter.

Columbus Shoal.— On the 24th of November, 1869, the ship Columbus,
G. Croot, master, in lat. 0' 51' S., long. 108° 16' E., struck soundings in 5
fathoms, hard sand or rock ; the ship then tacked and stood to the N.W. ;
on standing back again, and when about 5 miles S.S.W. of the first position,
soundings in 6 fathoms were again obtained; tacked and stood off to 17
fathoms, after which no shoaler water was found. The weather at the time
was squally, and no land in sight.

WEST COAST OF BORNEO, ETC.

The southern part of the West coast of Borneo, from Sambar Point (its
S.W. extreme) to abreast of the Masien Tiega Islets, is very imperfectly
known. Two of its ports Sinkawang and Pontianak, are visited by the
Netherlands Indian Steam Navigation Company's steamers, but the trade of
the coast is mostly carried on by small vessels, owned and commanded by
Chinamen or Malays connected either with the Dutch settlements in Bor-
neo or Java, or with Singapore.

SAMBAR POINT is in about lat. 2= 56' 30" S., long. 110^ 15' E., and
Mount Minto in 2"" 14' S., 110° 3' E., and between them the coast falls back
and forms two bays. Mount Minto is upon the North point of the northern
bay, and aboat 16 miles S.E. by E. ^ E. from it is a high peak. The islands
of Mankap, Laag, Kumpal, and some smaller ones, together with several
dangers, lie off this part of the coast, and are described hereafter.

N. J W., distant 22 miles from Mount Minto Point, is Bree Point, the coast
between forming a bay 5 or 6 miles deep, in which are several small rivers.
Close to the northward of Bree Point is the Pawang River, which has two
entrances, separated by an island 3 or 4 miles in breadth.

From the entrance of the Pawang the coast trends with an irregular out-
line in a general North direction for about 45 miles, to the entrance of the
large river Simpang. On this part of the coast are several small rivers, and
about midway between the Pawang and Simpang are the islets Sepadian,
Tjampedak, Dato, &c., with the islands of Joanta and Batoang, 7 or 8 miles
I. A. 2 o

282 WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

in the offing. About 7 miles southward of the entrance of the Simpang is
the island of Palmtoan, lying close to a point of the coast, inside of which on
a small river is the town of Pamharawang . Two or three miles southward of
Pambarawang is the town of Succadana.

Succadana, or Sukadana, "Parrot's Gift," is an unimportant place. It is
a part of the Netherland province on the West coast of Borneo, and was
once a Javanese state.

There is good anchorage in 3 or 4 fathoms in the roadstead off these
towns, with a group of small islands to the southward.

The coast above described is low land, and it has seldom been approached
under 12 or 10 fathoms, being fronted by islets or rocky ground in some
parts.

From the entrance of the Simpang Eiver, the coast trends for about 40
miles in a W.N.W. direction to a point about 4 miles north-eastward of the
Masien Tiega Islands. On this part of the coast are several other islands,
and separated from it by a very narrow channel is the large island of Mayang,
w^hich is principally low land, but near its south-western end is a high hill.
Mount Marang ; and near its north-western end a long range fronting the
sea, named Mount Mayah.

The West Coast of Borneo, from a point 10 miles northward of the Masien
Tiega Islets, takes a general direction about N.N.W. for a distance of 50
miles, when it trends towards the Pontianak River. Two or three small
islands are shown on the chart as lying close to this part of the coast, and
the entrance of the Sanjavay, one of the branches of the Pontianak, is about
15 miles to the southward of the main entrance of the latter river. The fol-
lowing remarkable phenomenon was experienced by Captain Pearson, of the
brig Lady of the Lake, in the months of May and June, while sailing along
this coast on two different voyages : —

"June 2nd, 1833, at daylight, when sailing along the coast in 10 fathoms
water, experienced a singular incident ; fresh water on one side the vessel,
and salt water on the other, which continued for an hour whilst sailing about
2 miles on the boundary line of salt and fresh water. We filled all our
empty casks with good drinkable water on one side of the vessel, when it
was quite salt on the opposite side ; our distance then 2^ or 3 miles off shore,
lat. 0" 8' S., with the appearance of the mouth of a great river abreast, which
must be navigable for large vessels, as the water deepened in crossing its
direction." This was probably the Sanjavay River, one of the branches of
the Pontianak, several of which reach the sea between the equator and lat.
0° 20' S.

PONTIANAK RIVER entrance is in lat. 0° 2' N., long. 109° 10' E., and
distant 35 miles E. f S. from Pulo Datoe- The anchorage in the road is in
3i to 55 fathoms, with the river's mouth bearing E. by S. h S., or E.S.E.,
Pulo Datoe W. i N. or W. ^ N., and the extremes of Borneo from S. \ E.

TANJONG ^FAMrAWA. 283

to N.N.W. ^ W., oif shore about 4 or 5 miles. A shoal mud-bank projects
some distance from the mouth of the river, and although the bar is nearly
dry at low water, there are 8 or 10 ft. on it at high spring tides. The town
is about 12 miles from the entrance, and has a fort; and at Balu Lasrong,
about 7 miles up, there is a fort on each side. These two places are some-
times visited by Bengal traders.

Buoys. — Outside the poles which mark the channel of the Pontianak
Eiver, two Herbert's buoys are placed. A white buoy in 3 fathoms water,
with Pulo Batoe bearing W. 4° N., and Pulo Temadyo showing over the
low foreland, N. 29° W. The second buoy is black, moored in 2f fathoms
water N. 12° E. from the preceding buoy, and with Pulo Datoe bearing
W. 2° N., and Pulo Temadyo N. 30° W. These buoys are moored about
W.N.W. 2^ miles from the mouth of the river.

Pontianak, a Malay town and state, is the chief place of the Netherlands
Administration of their western province of Borneo. There is a considerable
trade with Batavia and Singapore. The river is said to be navigable by the
light draught steamer stationed upon it, for a distance of 200 miles.

Some bullocks and hogs may be procured at Pontianak, and also at Mam-
pawa ; but boats must go far up the Pontianak to procure fresh water during
the dry season, which makes watering at this river very inconvenient.

TANJONG MAMPAWA is in lat. 0° 19^' N., long. 108° 54' E., and bears
N.W, 23 miles from the entrance of the Pontianak, the coast between form-
ing a bay. About 4 miles eastward of the point is Mampawa River, which
is only navigable for proas ; there is a fort at the town of Mampawa, a few
miles inside the entrance. The anchorage in the road is in 5 to 8 fathoms,
about 3 or 4 miles off shore, with the mouth of the river N. by E. |- E. ; or
to the westward of the point at discretion, bearing in mind that the sound-
ings decrease rather suddenly under a depth of 10 fathoms.

H.M.S. Rifleman, in 1862, anchored off Mampawa Point, but could not
find the landing-place mentioned in Horsburgh as being there. Her boats
went up to the town of Mampawa, and succeeded in obtaining a few fowls
and eggs.

The Tides in Mampawa Eoad run about 2 miles per hour, nearly E.S.E.
and W.N.W.

The coast from Mampawa Point takes a general direction nearly N. by W.
for 28 miles, to Tanjong Batoe Blad. At 9 miles from Mampawa Point is
Tanjong Samoedin, and between these points is a bay, about 2 miles deep,
with a small round islet in the depth of it. The western part of this islet
was used as an observation spot by the ofScers of H.M. surveying-vessel
Rifleman, and its position was ascertained to be in lat. 0° 24' N., long.
108° 56' E. At 18 miles northward from Samoedin Point is Tanjong Sangoa,
having a small islet close to it, and Samassu Island and Kran Islet lying
about half a mile off it. On either side of Sangoa Point, the coast line

284 WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

curves gently back, forming bays, towards which the soundings decrease gra-
dually.

Mountains. — The coast between the Pontianak River and Batoe Blad
Point is marked by many remarkable mountains, some rising boldly up near
the sea, and others several miles back from it. A long continuous range
runs eastward from Tanjong Sedow Malang (5 miles north-eastward of Tan-
jong Batoe Blad) for a distance of 12 or 13 miles.

Pulo Sitenga, its centre in lat. 0° 22' N., long. 108° 44' 40" E., is small,
three-quarters of a mile long N.N.E, and S.S.W., nearly half a mile broad,
and moderately elevated. Close around it are 6 to 8 fathoms water, and
from 11 to 16 fathoms, clay bottom, at a short distance from it.

Pulo Damar, lying N.E. f E., 2|- miles from Sitenga, is a small, round
islet, moderately elevated, and covered with large trees. Close around it are
5i to 8 fathoms, increasing to 10 and 14 fathoms at a short distance to the
westward.

PULO TEMADJOE, lying about 2| miles westward of Tanjong Samoedin,
is about 2i miles long, North and South, and 1^ mile broad. It is consider-
ably elevated, of an irregular shape, forming a point at its South end, and
having its greatest breadth on its N.W. side, where are two small bays,
with white sandy beaches ; there is also a rather deep bay on its West side.
The soundings decrease gradually towards Temadjoe, from 14 and 12 fa-
thoms to 7 and 6, and close to it are 4 and 3 fathoms, except on its East
side, where a reef appears to project about a quarter of a mile. The channel
between the island and the main is quite clear, with depths of 7 or 8 fathoms,
decreasing regularly towards the main, and there is good anchorage any-
where under the lee of the island

Pulo Baroe, in lat. 0° 35J' N., long. 108° 45i' E., is only about a third of
a mile in extent. The soundings are very irregular, 18 to 5 fathoms, close
to it, and close to its North end is a patch of H fathom.

A. shoal patch , of only 2f fathoms water, and 12 to 16 fathoms around it,
lies half a mile N.N.W. from Pulo Baroe.

Pulo Samassu, three-quarters of a mile long N. by W. and S. by E., and
a quarter of a mile broad, lies off Tanjong Sangoa, half a mile distant from
the coast, but some distance inside the S-fathoms edge of the bank extend-
from the shore. The soundings decrease rather suddenly towards this island,
which should not be neared under a depth of 8 or 6 fathoms.

About N.W. J N., distant one-third of a mile from the North point of Sa-
massu, is a small islet named Pulo Kran.

Four-fathoms Patches. — X shoal patch, having this depth over it, and 8 to 11
fathoms around it, lies with the South point of Samassu bearing East, distant
3i miles ; and the West part of Pulo Kaboen, shut in behind the N.E. part
of Pulo Penata Ketehil, bearing N. by W., westerly. There is another 4-
fathoms patch at half a mile southward of Penata Ketehil.

BOEEONG ISLANDS. 285

B0ER02f G ISLANDS are a group of five islands lying to the westward of
Tanjong Batoe Blad and the coaft adjacent to it.

Pulo Landean, the southernmost of the group, is a mere islet, barely a
quarter of a mile in diameter, lying about three-quarters of a mile S. by E.
from the South point of Lamokatan. Near to it are depths ot 4 fathoms,
and 10 to 12 fathoms at a short distance westward of it.

Pulo Lamokatan, the largest island of the group, is 4^ miles long N.N.W.
and S.S.E., but its greatest breadth is only a little over a mile. It is high,
with several peaked hills upon it, the heights of which, however , are not
known. The water is deep, 15 or 16 fathoms, close to its West side, and
there appears to be a deep water channel between it and Pulo Landean.
Shoal water extends about a quarter of a mile from the North part of the
island.

There is anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms abreast of two small bays on the
East side of Lamokatan, but it will be necessary to approach the shore with
caution, the soundings decreasing rather suddenly from 17 or 16 fathoms.

Pulo Penata Besar, 2 miles long N. by W. and S. by E., and two-thirda
of a mile broad, lies about 1 J mile eastward of Lamokatan, the South ex-
tremes of both islands being in the same latitude. Close to the East and
West sides of Penata Besar are from 4 to 8 fathoms water, except off its
North point, where there are but If fathoms. In the channel between
these islands the water is deep, 2'2 to 33 fathoms, but decreasing to 15 and
14 fathoms northward of the parallel of the North point of Penata Besar.

Pulo Penata Ketchil, about half a mile in extent, lies a mile eastward of
the middle part of Penata Besar. A point projects in a south-easterly direc-
tion from the island, upon each side of which is a small bay. Close to the
island are 8 to 13 fathoms, but, as before stated, there is a patch of 4 fathoms
at half a mile to the southward, having 6 and 7 fathoms near it.

A Shoal or bank, over which the least water appears to be 3^ fathoms, lies
(its southern extreme of 4 fathoms) about one-third of a mile N.N.W. from
the North point of Penata Ketchil, and from thence extends about N. ^ E.
1 J mile. Close to the West side of this bank are 7 to 16 fathoms, but on the
East side, soundings of 5 fathoms extend nearly a mile from it, when the
depths suddenly increase to 12 and 19 fathoms.

It would seem necessary to exercise caution when crossing over or passing
near to this bank, for the chart does not exhibit sufficient soundings to make
it certain that the least water upon the bank has been obtained.

Pulo Kaboen, the N.E. island of the Boerong Group, lies E.N.E. about 4
miles from the North end of Lamokatan, and W. by N. ^ N. nearly 3 miles
from Tanjong Batoe Blad. It is a high island, about U mile long, N.E. by N.
and S.W. by S., and a mile broad. Close to its South end are 3J fathoms,
and there are depths of 4 fathoms about three-quarters of a mile from it. A

286 WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

patch of 4 fathoms lies about half a mile off its N.W. point, elsewhere the
soundings close to the island are 6 to 8 fathoms.

TANJONG BATOE BLAD, the westernmost extreme of Borneo, is in lat.
0° 47' 35" N., long. 108° 50' 10" E. It is a prominent point from the land
approaching it from the southward in a N.N.W. direction, and then falling
from it in a north-easterly direction, and also from a range of hills behind it,
running 12 or 13 miles to the eastward. The point itself appears, from the
Dutch chart, to be low, with three hiUs immediately behind it ; some rocks
lie off it, and the 3-fathoms line which marks their edge is nearly half a mile
from the point.

A shoal, of small extent, but over which there are but 2f fathoms water,
lies N.W. ^N. 1^ mile from Batoe Blad Point, and West-southerly from the
North point of Kaboen Island. Around the shoal there appears to be 11
fathoms water, and 8 or 9 fathoms between it and the shore bank ; between
the shoal and Kaboen are 12 and 15 fathoms.

Directions. — Vessels will frequently find it convenient to keep pretty close
to the coast of Borneo, just described, especially when working to windward
against the N.E. monsoon, for favourable tides will be found near the shore
when a strong current is running to the southward some distance from it.
Between the Massa Tiega Islets and Mampawa Point, a vessel may stand
towards the coast, guided by the lead, into 7 or even 6 fathoms ; farther out,
in a line between the Greig Shoal and Datoe Island, the depths are 18 or 20
fathoms. Small vessels may pass in safety between Temadjoe Island and
the main, the channel being a mile wide, with depths in it of 7 and 8 fathoms.
Large vessels, however, had better pass outside that island. Between Te-
madjoe and Samassu, vessels of any size may stand towards the coast into
7 or 6 fathoms, and pass on either side of Baroe Island and the shoal near
it as convenient. The Boerong Islands may be boldly approached from the
westward, and large vessels had better pass outside them ; but small vessels
may often with great advantage pass inside those islands, taking care to
avoid the 3j-fathom shoal to the northward of Penata Ketchil, and the 2J-
fathom patch about IJ niile N.W. of Batoe Blad Point.

The Coast from Tanjong Batoe Blad takes a north-easterly direction for
about 5 miles to Tanjong Sedow Malang, where it falls back East for 2 or 3
miles, and then curving round and forming a long bay, runs in a N.N.W.
direction towards Tanjong Biela, the southern point of entrance to the Sam-
bas River.

Several rivers disembogue upon this part of the coast, the most important
of which are the Singkmvan, about 5 miles from Sedow Malang Point, and
the Slakouw, about two-thirds of the distance between Sedow Malang and
Biela Point. The town of Singkawan, situated some miles up the Sing-
kawan, is the principal military station of the Dutch upon this coast, and

SAMBANG OE SAMBAS RIVER. 287

there are usually about 500 soldiers, Europeans and natives, quartered
there.

SKOAL PATCH. — The soundings along this part of the coast appear to
decrease regularly towards the shore, except at one spot which lies S.S.W.
I "W. from Biela Point, and nearly "West, distant .5 miles from the entrance
of the Slakouw River ; upon this spot, which is just inside the edge of the
5-fathom line, there are only 2^ fathoms water.

SAMBANG or SAMBAS RIVER has a wide entrance, in lat. 1° 11' N.,
long. lOS'^ 58' E., with some small islets close to the North point, and two
hills on the other. The town is about 30 miles up the river on the South
branch, which has many windings near the town. The principal branch is
wide, running directly eastward, having many lateral branches. The sea
flowing into the river makes ihe water brackish 13 or 14 miles up, so that
ships in want of water are obliged to get it from a great distance. The
anchorage in the road is with the mouth of the river bearing East or E. ^ N.,
in any convenient depth, from 15 to 5 fathoms, the decrease being regular
over a soft bottom to 4 fathoms about 1^ or 2 miles off shore ; the soundings
are regular along this part of the coast.

Sambas is one of the places on the Borneo coast formerly visited by ships
employed in the eastern trade from Bengal ; it was fortified by a piratical
Rajah, who was driven to the interior by a British force sent from Bataviain
1812. Since the late treaty with the Netherlands Grovernment, the Dutch
have claimed as their right most of the trading ports along this coast, where
they have placed commercial residents and some troops.

The Coast from the Sambas River trends in a gradual curve to Tanjong
Pajang, or Somoet, which bears from Tanjong Biela N.N.E., northerly, 25
miles. The soundings off it decrease gradually towards the shore from 17
or 16 to 8 and 4 fathoms; but shoal water extends more than 1^ mile from
Tanjong Pajang.

Prom Tanjong Pajang the coast falls back 2 or 3 miles to the eastward,
and then runs north-eastward 13 or 14 miles to the entrance of the Palo
River, from the North point of which it forms a small bay, curving to the
northward to Tanjong Api. The coast between Pajang and Api Points has
been but very imperfectly surveyed, and must be approached with great
caution, for shoal banks appear to extend 6 or 7 miles from it.

TANJONG API, the noi'th-western extreme of Borneo, is described here-
after.

Hector Bank. — Dangerous patches extend many miles to the southward
of Sambar Point, the South evtreme of the coast just described, the most
southern of which is the Hector Bank, which is a 3^-fathom patch of doubtful
position, but placed on the chart in lat. 3° 46' S., long. 110° 8' E. Around
it are from 6 to 10 fathoms.

288 WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

Fox Shoal is shown on the chart as two rocks awash N.W. by W. J W.
and S.E. by E. ^ E. of each other, about 1^ mile apart, with a large patch
with only 2 fathoms water over it, to the north-eastward of them, and 9 to
1 9 fathoms close-to on their West and South sides. The westernmost rock
is in lat. 3° 32' S., long. 110° 7f E.

Aruba Shoal, taken from the Dutch chart, is said to lie 3 or 4 miles N.E.
by E. from the Fox Shoal, and to have 3 fathoms water over it.

Clemencia Reef, in lat. 3° 24' S., long. 110° 7j E., is nearly dry; around
it are 7 to 1 7 fathoms.

From the Clemencia Reef, shoals appear to extend all the way to Mankap
Island, and vessels should be very cautious not to get too near them.
Between Fox Shoal and Hector Bank there is a good channel by keeping
between lat. 3° 36' and 3° 42' S. ; but when the vessel's position is not
correctly known, it is advisable to pass to the southward of the Hector
Bank.

Although the bottom near and among these shoals is generally a mixture
of red and green clay, with mud, yet the soundings are very irregular, with
overfalls, making it prudent not to come under 15 or 16 fathoms towards
them.

Ben Briel Shoal, reported by the steam-vessel Den Briel to have been seen
above water, and placed on the charts in lat. 3° 23' S., long. 109° 27' 30" E.,
was thoroughly and unsuccessfully searched for by H.M.S. Nassauin 1876, —
depths of 18 to 22 fathoms, mud, having been obtained.

A doubtful Rock {Euphrosine) is marked on the chart in lat. 3° 25|' S., long.
109° 41' E., or S.S.W. 16 miles from Oliviera Reef. It was reported in
1869 by the Master of the English barque Euphrosiney who says it is a mile
in diameter.

Oliviera Reef, from a Dutch chart of 1842, lies W. by S., 24^ miles from,
Mankap Island, or in lat. 3° 10' S., long. 109° 47^' E. H.M.S. Nassau, in
1876, passed 1^ mile East, and I J mile North of the position assigned, with-
out observing any indication of shoal water; depths of 16 to 19 fathoms,
sand, were obtained.

PULO MANKAP or MANCO, in lat. 3° 5' S., long. 110° 13' E., and dis-
tant about 8 miles S.W. of Sambar Point, is a small low island, which may
be seen 15 miles from the deck of a large ship. Near to it, to the N.N.E.,
are three other small isles, which appeared to Capt. Ross, when examining
the surrounding shoal, as three bush islets or rocks. It was noticed in the
last page that there is shoal water to the southward of Mankap Island, as
far as the Clemencia Reef ; shoal water also extends far to the westward of
it, and vessels must be cautious in approaching the island from both those
directions. Captain Ross, in the Discovery, with the island bearing East,
distant 10 miles, get suddenly into 4 and 3f fathoms, hard sand, on the shoal
bank that encircles the island ; when it bore N.E. about 7 miles, the sound-

GELAM AND KUMPAL ISLANDS. 289

ings were 3J fathoms, fine sand; and when bearing N.N.E. ^ E. 10 or 12
miles, seen from the deck, the vessel struck on the ground.

Horsburgh says, Mankap Island ought not to be brought to the northward
of N.E. by N. while in sight from the mast-head, for if it bear N.N.E. i E.,
about 18 miles distant, a vessel will suddenly get into shoal water on some
of the spits that stretch far to the southward, having from 10 to 17 fathoms,
soft bottom, near them.

Gelam or Laag Island (Low Island), is the largest of a group of islands
lying north-west 9 or 10 miles from Sambar Point. The whole are en-
compassed with reefs, and the shoal bank, which extends 10 or 11 miles
westward of Mankap Island, also extends 5 or 6 miles westward of the Laag
group.

KUMPAL or RENDEZVOUS ISLAND.— The West point of this island,
by Capt. Eoss, is in lat. 2^ 44^' S., long. 110° 2^' E., but Sir Edward Belcher,
who visited it in H.M.S. Suljihur, October, 1840, places a ledge of rocks on
the West point in long. 110° 7' 39" E., or 6° 16' 21" East of Singapore, and
9° 16' 24" West of Macassar.

The Sulphur took up a safe berth within 1 mile of the West point of the
island ; and her tender, the Starling, occupied a position within one-eighth
of a mile from the shore, but had rocky bottom. A plan was made of the
anchorage, and the results of the examination proved it to be much safer
and more convenient than the chart or sailing directions led to expect, ad-
mirably adapted to replenish fuel or correct ohrocometers, and with this
object in view some pains were taken to connect it with the meridian of
Singapore. The rocky portion of the island is composed of a mixture of
contorted slaty and sandstone schist, traversed by veins of quartz, exhibiticg
slaggy indications at the point of contact, apparently ferruginous, but on
examination did not affect a very delicate needle. Wood is abundant, but
the search for water was unsuccessful.

This island was, in former times, the rendezvous for the China convoys
in case of separation. The following is from Horsburgh : — The island ex-
tends about 12 miles to the north-eastward, and a chain of small islands and
reefs nearly joins it to the main ; this chain stretches also southward along
the coast to Pulo Mankap, and is fronted with shoal water. About 6 miles
S. by W. from the West point of the island is a bank with 3 or 3J fathoms,
which makes it proper in leaving the anchorage at the N.W. part of the
island to haul off to the south-westward, to give a berth to this bank. In
July land and sea breezes prevailed, the former at East and E.S.E., veering
to S.S.E. in a breeze The island shows in hummocks, but cannot be seen
above 16 or 17 miles, and the West point forms in a bluff, when viewed from
the S.W. or southward.

The William Pitt, in July, anchored in 4| fathoms, about 4 miles off

1. A. 2 p

290 CARIMATA STEAIT.

shore, with the West point of Pulo Kumpal S. i W., its North point E. by
N. i N., a small isle off the latter part E. by N. | N., another isle E.N.E.,
a third small isle with trees on it North, just visible from the poop, and the
North extreme of Borneo N.N.E. The first two isles are united by a coral
reef, which extends 2 miles N.N.W. from the second island, having near
its extremity a large rock 20 feet above water ; from this rock, in a N.E.
direction, there is another island about 4 miles long, surrounded by coral
reefs.

Although coral reefs, with sharp-pointed rocks visible at low water, pro-
ject from 1 to 3 miles from most parts of Pulo Kumpal, yet the western side
appeared tolerably clear, with a sandy beach. From the West point of the
island the land forms an elbow, by which there is shelter from all winds
from the eastward, with smooth water.

Water. — Sir Edward Belcher did not find any water on the island, but
Horsburgh states that the crew of the William Pitt dug wells above high
water mark on the sandy beach on the West side of the island, from which
very good water was obtained.

The tides were found to be more regular here than at any other part of
the West coast of Borneo ; the rise and fall was 8 or 9 ft.

Rocks awash. — In a Dutch chart by J. G. Tindal, 1842, some rocks awash
are placed in lat. 2° 20^' S., about S.W. by W., 12 miles from Mount
Minto.

Gilbert Rocks and Elliot Sand.— In lat. 2° 14' to 2° 16' S., and 4 or 5
miles off Mount Minto Point, lie the Gilbert Rocks, or Toekan Mengkoedoe,
with Mount Minto bearing about E. | N., and High Peak about E. by
S. i S.

A mile or two S.E. of Gilbert Rocks is a dry bank, named Elliot Sand.

BIRDS NEST ISLANDS (Vogelnest Islands), are a group of small islands
3 or 4 miles in extent, and surrounded by a reef. The northernmost island,
named Boorong, is in lat. 1° 43' S., long. 109° 15^' E.

Amur Shoal, of 9 ft., discovered in 1875, is about half a mile in diameter,
and lies 3 miles W.N.W. from Boorong Island.

Black Rock (Zwarte Rots) is 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of the Birds Nest
group. There is a rock under water about half a mile eastward of it, a rock
awash nearly a mile to the southward, and another awash the same distance
to the south-westward.

South Island {Erawang), about a mile in extent, lies about 4^ miles N.E.
from the Birds Nest Islands. A smaller island lies close to its N.W. side,
and a rock off its S.E. side. Ginting, Mintano, Grisse, and Bisi, are four
small islands, the most eastern of which, Ginting, is in lat. 1° 41' S., long.
109° 4 J' E.

Bisi is about Zh miles from Carimata, to which it appears to be almost
connected by a projecting reef. Bold and Tongue Islands form a group of

OSTERLY CHANNEL-PAPAN ISLANDS. 291

four small islands. Bold, the most southern and western island of the group,
bears North 3 miles from Ginting. The eastern Tongue Island is very small.
The North Tongue Island has a reef projecting from it nearly 2 miles in a
N.N.W. direction. The middle Tongue is about twice the size of the other
two islands. A reef, about a mile in extent, lies 2 miles north-westward of
Bold Island.

P3rramid, or Boan Island, is about 1^ mile in extent, and its centre is in
about lat. 1° 29^' S., long. 108° 59' E. Nihong and Eelinet are much smaller
islands, lying about a mile northward of Pyramid.

The OSTERLY CHANNEL, through which the ship of that name passed,
lies westward of the Birds Nest Islands, Black Eock, Bold Island, and the
reef north-westward of it, Pyramid, Nibong, and Helinet Islands ; and
eastward of Ginting, the islands and reefs N.E. of Bisi, and the East coast
of Carimata. The narrowest part is between Bold Island and the reefs ex-
tending eastward of Bisi, where it is but \h mile broad, with depths of 5 or
6 fathoms ; westward of Black Rock the depths are 10 to 12 fathoms ; and
from 10 to 13 fathoms between Carimata and Pyramid Island. The Oosterhj
found this route very intricate, and several times had rocky bottom and very
shoal water.

PAP AN ISLANDS form two small groups, between which is the Papan
Channel, about a mile wide, with 9 to 12 fathoms water. Maleidong, in lat.
1° 31' S., long. 109° 22' E., is the largest of the islands, and with two islets
near its North side form the eastern group. The western group is said to
consist of (three or) four islands, nearly of the same size, the southernmost
bearing about South from the one next it ; the remaining three are in line
when bearing about N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.

Spirit of the North Shoal. — The ship Spirit of the North, Charles Wise,
commander, September 2l8t, 1861, was reported to have struck on a shoal
lying 2 to 2^ miles N.W. of the middle island of the western Papan group ;
the shoalest water obtained was 12 ft. There was no ripple on it, but small
round white patches were indistinctly seen under the vessel's bottom.

Passage Islands (G^oeroM^) are two small islands lying close together, 10
miles N.W. by W. i W. from the western group of the Papan Islands.

A roch is marked on the chart in lat. T 30' S., long. 109° bh' E., 4 miles
S.W. of the Western Goerong Island, but its position is doubtful.

Tallack Shoal.— On the 2nd of March, 1871, the British barque Mari/
Tatham, struck on a shoal in lat. 1° 21' S., and long. 109° 6' E. On exami-
nation of the danger 20 ft. was the least water found, with 20 fathoms close
to on all sides. The following bearings were observed from the shoal : —
Soeka, the southern of the Melapies group of islands, N.AV. J N., distant
about 2 miles ; Pyramid Island, S.W. f S. ; and Zattak Point, half open of
the North side of Meledan or Button Island.

MELAPIES ISLANDS comprise a group about 5 miles in extent, lying to

292 CAEIMATA STEAIT.

the S.W. of the high island of Panambungan. Three islands of the group
are tolerably large and high, with several contiguous islets, the north-eastern
of which, Double Island, lies about 2^ miles from the S.W. extreme of
Panambungan.

Rodgers Reef. — In 1857 Mr. Eodgers, master of an English ship, dis-
covered a shoal with probably less than 4 fathoms water on it, the East
point of Carimata Island bearing S. J W., and the Leema Islands W. by
N. AN.

Button Island (Meledan) lies about 9 miles eastward of the Melapies
group, and about 6^ miles E. by S. i 8. from the S.W. point of Panam-
bungan.

PULO PANAMBXTNGAN is high, 5 miles in extent N.E. and S. W., and
its western point is in lat. 1° 12' S., long. 109° 10' E. There are four small
islets off its eastern extreme, the outermost of which is 4 miles N. by W. 3 W.
from Button Island ; there is also a small islet, named Sirie, lying off its
south-western extreme.

There is good anchorage off the north-western side of Panambungan, in
6i or 6 fathoms, with shelter from southerly winds. Fresh-water Bay, at this
part of the island, has two runs of good water, the-westernmost of which is
the largest, wliere the water is obtained behind a large black rock on the
beach, which consists of fine sand. All the watering places are fronted by
fine sandy beaches, and easily discerned. There are spars fit for topmasts
on the island, but the trees seem to be too heavy.

Baroe and Ananas Islands are the largest and outermost of a group of small
islands lying off the north-western extreme of Mayang Island^.

Masien Tiega are three small islands, the outer or westernmost of which
is in lat. 0° 55' S., long. 109° 12' E. The chart shows a reef extending from
them to the S.W.

Greig Channel is the passage between Panambungan and Melapies
Islands, and the route by it and among the islands to the south-eastward,
although narrow in some parts, has moderate depths with generally good
anchorage, and seems preferable to the route westward of Carimata and
Soruetou, for ships that have to work along the coast against the monsoon,
whether bound northward or southward.

Directions. — Being to the northward of the dangers off Minto Point (page
290), the Borneo coast may be approached to 8 or 9 fathoms of water, and
to 7 or 6 fathoms when nearing the Papan Islands. The Birds Nest
Islands should not be approached under 1 fathoms, or nearer than 2 miles.
A vessel may pass on either side of the two groups of the Papan Islands,
observing that the water quickly shoals to 5 fathoms eastward, or inshore of
them. If passing westward of them, remember the Spirit of the North
Shoal (p. 291). Between South Island and the Papan Islands the depths
are 10 to 12 fathoms, decreasing pretty regularly towards the Borneo coast ;

DIRECTIONS. 293

and between the Papan and Passage Islands there are 7 to 12 fathoms.
Northward of the Papan Island the soundings appear to shoal rather sud-
denly from 8 to 5 fathoms, but gradually under that depth. The Greig
channel appears to be bold towards either shore, with depths from 14 to 20
fathoms in the fairway.

When northward of Panambungan, the Borneo coast may be approached
to 9 or 8 fathoms at discretion, but under 8 fathoms the soundings seem to
decrease rather quickly. A vessel may stand off to 15 fathoms near the
Leema Islands, and to 17 or 20 fathoms when to the northward of them,
but remember the Wellesley, Crescent, and Greig Shoals.

The Inner Channel, between the East end of Panambungan and the S.W.
extreme of Majang Island, may be used by small vessels, as it has regular
soundings of 3 or 5 fathoms, soft bottom.

Directions through Carimata Strait from the Southward. Approaching Cari-
mata Strait from the southward, a vessel will have to depend principally
upon the correctness of her reckoning, for the soundings are so irregular,
that they will afford but very imperfect guidance, and the land is too distant
to be of service in determining her position. If to the westward of about
long. 108° to 108° 20V a good lookout should be kept to get sight of Shoe
Island (page 272), which, if seen, will determine her position, and enable
her to steer to pass into the strait, either by the main route eastward of the
Discovery, Lavender, and Cirencester Shoals, or by the route westward of
those dangers, between them and the Osterly Shoals.

Should the vessel be to the eastward of 109° 30', and approaching the
parallel of 4° S., the greatest care must be observed to keep to the westward
of the dangers which extend about 42 miles S. by W. from Mankap Island ;
and the navigator must be guided by circumstances as to whether he shall
proceed eastward or westward of Doubtful Rock and Oliviera Reef. It is
often advantageous, on account of the tide, to pass inside those dangers, but
it is much better, if possible, to keep the main channel. Having passed
Pulo Kumpal (or Rendezvous Island"), a course may be shaped to pass on
either side of the Ontario Reef. Carimata, Sorue<^ou, and the adjacent
islands will afford good objects for determining the vessel's position if she
pass northward of the reef, and the Montaran Islands will answer a similar
purpose, if she pass southward.

Vessels passing through Carimata Strait and bound to Singapore during
the months of December, January, and February, generally keep near the
coast of Borneo (where the tides are said to be regular) to avoid the strong
southerly current ; and pass into the China Sea through Greig Channel.

From the Northward. — Coming from the north-westward towards Carimata
Strait, if intending to pass outside or southward of Ontario Reef, having
brought Soruetou to bear N.E., distant 25 miles, steer S.E. by E., to give a
berth to the supposed rock westward of the Outario Roof. To keep to the

294 CAEIMATA STRAIT.

westward of this supposed rock, it would appear to be necessary to sink the
West end of Soruetou from the deck of a large ship before it bears North of
N.E. by N. Keep the West end of Soruetou to the eastward of N. by E.,
until past Ontario Reef, or 25 miles to the southward of Soruetou, or sink
the West end of the island from the deck of a large ship, bearing about
N. by E. ; continuing the S.E. by E. course the Montaran Islands will be
Been, if the weather is favourable ; pass to the eastward of them at 15 or 16
miles distance. From this position a S.S.E. course will lead in the fair track,
between the Cirencester and Discovery Shoals on the West side of the
channel, and the Oliviera Reef and Doubtful Rock on the East side. If not
certain of the longitude, the best guide is to borrow towards the coast of
Borneo, to get a sight of the land, if circumstances admit, and taking a de-
parture from Rendezvous Island, steer to the southward between Oliviera
Reef and the Mankap Shoals.

The best track for ships bound to the southward, particularly in cloudy
weather, is to pass northward of Ontario Reef, by keeping within 10 or 12
miles of Soruetou, until its West extreme bears N. ^ W. ; then observing to
keep it to the West of N. § W., in steering to the S.S.E., until the reef is
passed. Proceeding to the southward, borrow towards the eastern side of
the strait, where the soundings will generally be from 17 to 14 fathoms,
within from 30 to 20 miles of the coast of Borneo, deepening in some
places as the shoals are approached on the West side of the strait, but not
always aflPording a certain guide. To the southward of Rendezvous Island
the depths will increase from 19 to 21 fathoms irregular soundings, when
about 30 or 33 rpiles to the south-westward of Pulo Mankap, , which is as
near as any large ship should approach the shoals that extend far out from
it in this direction.

Sailing vessels making the passage from Singapore to the ports in Java
during the S.E. monsoon, as a rule, sight Soruetou Island, pass eastward of
Discovery East Bank, and thence round Hector Bank.

CHAPTER YIII.

BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

The routes between Singapore and the western straits, Banka, Gaspar, and
Carimata, leading from the Java Sea, pass either eastward of, or within the
line of islands and reefs which run generally in a parallel direction to the
coast of Sumatra.

This S.W. portion of the China Sea, between Borneo and Sumatra, has
not been systematically surveyed ; but as it has been the great maritime
highway for so many years, it is believed that all its dangers are ascertained,
and tolerably well defined. A portion near the coast of Borneo was sur-
veyed by Lieutenant Blommendal, of the Dutch Eoyal Navy ; other parts,
including the Tambelan Islands, were surveyed by Lieutenant J. W. Eeed,
E.N., in H.M.S. Rifleman, in 1862, &c. Other portions are by Mr. Stanton,
E.N. Ehio. Strait, partially surveyed by the Dutch, was afterwards, in
the years 1865 — 1868, examined by Lieut. J. W. Eeed, in H.M.S. Rifleman ;
the Linga Islands, also, by the Dutch, by A. C. Edeling, 1863, and after-
wards by Lieut. Eeed. Lieutenant Melvill Van Carnbee, also executed
some portions. From these and many other authorities tha following direc-
tions, as given in the China Sea Pilot, have been derived.

This chapter will include descriptions of the space and the islands between
Borneo and Sumatra, including the passages between the groups which lead
to Singapore Strait.

1.— DETACHED ISLANDS AND EOCKS.

TOEJOE, or Seven Islands, lie in two groups, between the parallels 1° 16'
and 1° S., and the meridians 105= 13 J' and 105° 2Qh' E. They are high
and woody, and visible 25 or 26 miles, and surrounded by rocks and reefs.
They are uninhabited, but occasionally visited by proas.

Pulo Joe, the southernmost of the islands, is very small, but rises to a
height of 270 ft. ; a short distance N.E. of it is a sunken rock. Pulo Lalang
is an islet about a mile N. by E. from Pulo Joe ; and a mile W.S.W.

296 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

from it is another islet surrounded by a reef. Pulo Sato, the most western
of the islands, is small, 105 ft. high, and bears from Pulo Joe about N.W.
by N., distant 5 miles. Pulo Meranti, also a small island surrounded by a
reef, is 117 ft. high, and lies between Lalang and Sato. Pulo Tjehia, the
largest island of the southern group, is about a mile in extent, 373 ft. high,
and surrounded by a reef which projects a little more than a mile from its
S.E. extreme.

Pulo Katjangang, the north-easternmost and largest of the Seven Islands,
is 4 miles long N.W. ^ W. and S.E. ^ E., but only half a mile broad, and
rises to several peaks, the highest of which is 526 ft. above the level of the
sea. It is surrounded by a reef, within the limits of which are some rocks
above water, especially off its S.E. end. There are some wells on its West
side. About 2^ miles N.W. by W. J W. from its N.W. extreme, is Pulo
Tukonkemhong , a small islet, 120 ft. high, and surrounded by a reef. About
1^ mile W.N.W. from Tukonkemhong are the N. W. Rocks, the middle one
of which is above water.

DOCAN ISLAND, in lat. 0' 58' S., long. 105° 39' E., is about three-
quarters of a mile in extent, surrounded by a reef, and a small islet with
some rocks project nearly a mile from its north-eastern extreme.

Two reefs lie off the South point of Docan, the outer one of which, lying
S.S.E. distant 2 miles from the point, was discovered in January, 1823, by
the ship Mary striking on it. There are 2 fathoms water over each of these
dangers, and around them 14 to 18 fathoms.

The channel between the Toejoe Islands and Pulo Docan is 21 miles wide,
and has regular soundings of 14 to 16 fathoms.

TOTY ISLAND, or Pulo Laut, in lat. 0° 55' S., long. 105° 47f' E., is
small, and surrounded by a reef, which pn the East side projects half a mile.
The passage between Toty and Docan is 6 miles wide, and appears to be free
from danger.

When passing between Banka and the Toejoe Islands, the latter should
not be approached to less than 10 fathoms water, nor Banka nearer than
4 miles ; for its dangers are all 2 or 3 miles in the offing, and nearly awash.
Near the Hyu and Doyang Eocks the bottom is rocky, and the depths
irregular.

Vessels keeping to the southward of Toty and Docan Islands, in order to
cross over to Borneo, must take care to avoid the Mary Eock, lying S.S.E. 2
miles from Docan Island, and also the Vega and other shoals.

From October to March, during the N.W. monsoon, the currents run with
force to the S.E., and during the other months to the N.W. It has, how-
ever, occurred that vessels going to Banka in June and July have experienced
strong southerly currents. Along the North shore of Banka, in regular
weather, there are generally two ebbs and two floods in the 24 hours.

PULO TAYA, the centre of which is in lat. 0° 44' S., long. 104° 54' E.,

ILCHESTER— PULO SINKEP, PULO PUNOEBO. 297

rises to a double peak 630 ft. above the sea. Both peaks, when in line on a
N. by E. and S. by W. bearing, show as a single triangular peak. The
whole shore of the island is steep, and may be approached to a distance of
3 cables. The island is uninhabited, of granite formation, and covered with
wood.

There is a spring of excellent icater on the western side of Taya, and a boat
at high tide can approach it to 40 ft., but at low tide rocks extend nearly a
cable's length from the sand. The knowledge of this is important to the
mariner, as no similar facility for watering occurs between Banka and Rhio
Strait. In the fine season, boats come here from Linga seeking turtle.

Castor Bank, lying to the north-eastward of Pulo Taya, is a long ridge of
coral and sand, nearly a mile wide, and 13 miles long in a N.N.E. direction.
The general depths on it are 10 to 6 fathoms, but on one part, N.E. ^ N. 10
miles from Pulo Taya, there is a ridge about a mile in extent, and its eastern
side steep-to, carrying only 5 fathoms. The bank is famous for a red species
of fish, called from their colour Ikan Merah.f

ILCHESTEH, or Alang Kalem Bank, on which the ship Ilchester struck,
■was examined by Capt. D. Eoss, I.N., who found it to be in lat. 0° 26^' S.,
long. 104° 58' E., to extend N. by E. and S. by W. about 2^ miles, and IJ
mile in breadth, and to have but 1 fathom water on its shoalest parts. Pulo
Taya bore from the shoal S. J W. ; Maralie Islet, off the East point of Linga,
N. by E. ; the East point of Linga, N. ^ E., distant 8 or 9 miles. The depth
of water decreases nearly all around from 18, 16, or 15 fathoms, suddenly to
6 and 3 fathoms, on the edge of the shoal.

When passing this danger, Maralie Islet must not be brought to the east-
ward of North, and Pulo Taya should be kept to the westward of S. by W.

PULO SINKEP, PULO PUNOEBO, and two islands to the westward, ap-
pear from a distance like one large island, being separated only by narrow
channels. They lie off the south-western part of Linga, and, together with
some adjoining islets and shoal spots, cover a space from 20 to 24 miles.
Sinkep, the largest island of the group, is of very irregular shape, and of
considerable elevation, having on its eastern side a range of hills, with a peak
1,440 ft. high near the centre of the range. It is only the East and N.E.
coasts of Sinkep and the dangers off it which will be noticed here : the other

* In old charts a shallow spot of 2| fathoms, hard bottom, was shown at 22 or 23 miles
southward from Taj-a Island, and W. \ N. from Toejoe Island, said to have been dis-
covered by the English vessel Thomas Hanisou, Capt. E. Smith, but it could not be found
by Mr. Stanton, in the Saracen.

t Couman Bank, said to lie 65 miles JT.E. by N. of the Castor, was searched for by the
Saracen in vain. It is expunged from the charts.

I. A. 2 Q

298 BANK A TO SINGAPORE.

portions of the group belong to tlie Inner Route, by Varella and Durian
Straits, and are described hereafter.

Dangers.— A.i 3f miles E. by S. J S. from the S.E. point of Sinkep is the
South end of a shoal, which from thence extends N.N.E. for 5 miles, but is
only about 1^ mile broad. At the South end of the shoal is a patch of 2\
fathoms, and another of 2| fathoms at the North end ; between these patches
are depths of 4J and 5 fathoms. Tanjong Boekoe (the South point of Sinkep),
bearing West, leads a mile southward of this danger ; and the eastern point
of the island bearing North leads about the same distance eastward.

Rocks and shoal water extend nearly a mile from the East point of Sinkep,
and the Saracen's soundings show a bank projecting 5 miles in a north-
easterly direction from it, on the extremity of which there are but 4 fathoms
water. As no soundings have been taken near the N.E. coast of Sinkep, it
should be approached with caution. There are some rocks awash oflf the
East sides of the small islets lying between the N.E. point of Sinkep and
Ponoebo.

LINGA ISLAND, lying about midway between Banka and Singapore
Straits, is about 35 or 36 miles in extent, in a W.N. W. and E.S.E. direction.
Upon its southern part is a remarkable mountain, the peak of which, rising
to an elevation of 3,920 ft., is split in two, forming a sort of double peak,
" rising like spires from the summit of the mountain," but which is more
generally thought to resemble asses' ears, visible many miles in all directions.
Viewed from the sea, this mountain presents a most beautiful and imposing
appearance, which is sure to arrest the attention even of the most careless
observer.

The north-eastern coast of the island is formed of numerous hillocks, from
200 to 300 ft. high, which give it a uniform appearance ; the contour of the
coast line is, however, very imperfectly known.

The East extreme of Linga, called by the natives Tanjong Eung, from its
prominent position and pyramidal peak, 750 ft. high, is very conspicuous,
and visible in clear weather 30 miles off. Tavjong Roe may be known by a
saddle hill, 630 ft. high, near it. The southern coast of Linga, between
these points and between Tanjong Roe and the town of Linga, being all low
land, both points make like islands when above 13 miles distant.

Pulo Maralie is an islet lying three-quarters of a mile off shore, in a S.E.
by E. direction from the hill on Tanjong Eung. Pulo Raha, a larger islet,
lying about half a mile off shore in a South direction from the same hill, is
surrounded by a reef which off its S.W. point extends a mile.

LINGA ROAD and TOWN.— The bay forming Linga Road is exposed to
southerly and easterly winds, and large ships are obliged to lie far out on
account of shoal water extending from the mouth of the river around Pulo
Colombo and its adjoining islets. Pulo Colombo, the largest of these islets,
lies S. by E. I E. nearly 2 miles from the^ entrance of the river. Anto and

LTNGA ROAD AND TOWN. 299

Ballang Islets are both small, the former lying about a mile S.E., and the
latter the same distance E. by S. from Colombo. W. by S. 2^ miles from
Colombo is another small islet named Badas, which is almost connected by
reefs to Pulo Mapar, a larger islet about a mile to the northward, with a
grove of cocoa-nut trees on it ; the village here contains about 300 Malays
and Chinese, chiefly fishermen.

H.M.S. Saracen anchored in Linga Road in 4 fathoms, mud, Pulo Badas
bearing N.N.E. half a mile; Sinkep Peak, 1,440 ft. high, S.S.W. ; and
Ponoebo Peak, 935 ft. high, W. ^ S. Horsburgh says that the safest anchor-
age for strangers is 3 or 4 miles off shore, with Pulo Taya S.S.E. ^ E.,
and the South point of Linga East, southerly. Linga Peak just to the east-
ward of Colombo, N.W. ^ W. or N.W. f W., with Ponoebo Peak bearing
about W. \ S., and the peak of Sinkep S.W. by W., appear also to be good
anchorage marks.

The Town of Linga, called by the natives Lyak, is prettily situated on the
banks, and nearly a mile within the entrance of the fresh water river. The
high, rugged, fantastic peak of Linga in the background, together with the
rakish appearance of the country prahus, all moored to cocoa-nut trees and
areca palms, their rich foliage almost obscuring the houses, give to the whole
a picturesque appearance.

The town is said to contain (in 1860) about 4,000 Malays, and 1,500
Chinese. The former prefer their usual style of houses constructed on poles,
but some of the Chinese have substantial buildings of stone. The produce
is rattans, pepper, and gambler, which is carried to Singapore and Rhio by
country vessels and prahus. Gold is found in small quantities after heavy
rains. Tin has not yet been found, but the neighbouring island of Sinkep
produces some. There are no Europeans on the island. The Sultan is
nominally under Dutch protection, and the Resident of Rhio pays him an
annual visit.

Water. — The Saracen obtained good water, but with difiiculty, from a well
in the interior of Mapar Island.

In Linga Road it is high water, full and change, at 7 p.m., and the rise is
7 ft. The flood runs at the rate of 2 knots to the westward.

Directions. — A vessel proceeding toward Linga Road from Banka Strait,
should pass westward of Pulo Taya, and steer for the high land to the
eastward of Linga Peak, giving the eastern coast of Sinkep a berth of at
least 5 or 6 miles. In working, by not bringing the East point of Sinkep to
the eastward of North, will avoid the shoal off the East side of that island ;
and by not bringing the S.E. point of the island to the southward of S.W.
until Linga Peak bears N.N.W. ^ W., will avoid the shoal bank which ex-
tends 5 miles in a north-easterly direction from the East point of Sinkep.
When standing towards the South coast of Linga, care must be taken to
avoid the Dc Ugh Rock, with 16 ft. water over it, which lies with the South

300 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

extreme of Pulo Singsa bearing E. | N., distant 4 miles ; Linga Peak,
N.W. by W. ^ W. ; Sinkep Peak, W. by S. J S. ; and the nearest points of
Linga bearing respectively N.E. by N., northerly, distant 2 miles, and
N N.W., westerly, distant 2^ miles ; close to the rock are 12 or 14 fathoms.
The right extreme of Pulo Kaka just open of the right extreme of Pulo
Singsa, bearing about E.N.E., leads a mile to the S.E, of the De Has Rock,
and Linga Peak N.W. by W. leads to the S.W.

Bound to Linga Road from the north-eastward, round the East point of
Linga Island at a moderate distance, and then steer to the westward for the
anchorage. — {Mr. Stanton, R.N.)

The NORTH EAST COAST of LINGA is formed of numerous hillocks,
from 200 to 300 ft. high, which give it a uniform appearance ; but neither
it nor the adjacent islets are safe to approach at night, being as yet but im-
perfectly surveyed. The soundings obtained by the Saracen in this locality,
were confined to those above a depth of 10 fathoms, as vessels can gain no
advantage by keeping close in shore.

EAST DOMINO, or Selentang, is an islet lying about 8 miles northward of
Tanjong Eung, the East point of Linga. Horsburgh says that this islet is
80 ft. high, and that rocks awash project from it to the southward, to th6
distance of 2J miles ; but the Dutch chart only shows a reef extending about
a mile North and South of the islet, and a smaller islet close to the west-
ward of it ; a rock awash is placed about 2^ miles South of it. The sound-
ings close to the eastward of the islet are 14 fathoms, increasing to 16 and
17 fathoms at the distance of 3 or 4 miles.

DOMINO HILL, or Boediang Idand, is about 2 miles in extent, and a
peaked hill near its centre bears W. by 8. J S., 4 miles from the East
Domino.

GREAT DOMINO, or Kongka Island, is larger than Domino Hill, from
which it bears N.W. | N. 3^ miles. It is said to be moderately elevated,
and the chart shows a peaked hill on its western side.

Crocodile Rock, about 15 ft. above water, and visible 5 miles off, lies
N.E. J N. 4 miles off a conspicuous conical hill on the N.E. part of Great
Domino.

Brisbane Rock. — The barque Brisbane, under the command of Captain
Robert Hudleston, grounded on this danger in May, 1876. On examination
the rock was found to extend a mile in a S.E. and N.W. direction, with
depths of 2 to 2J fathoms, coarse gray sand. From it. Crocodile Rock bears
S.E. by E. J E. 2^ miles, and the small island off the North end of Kongka,
S.W. i W. The rock is steep-to, with depths of 6 and 7 fathoms around it.

Reef — Captain Hudleston also found a very dangerous reef of coral and
sand, awash at low water, with Crocodile Rock bearing E. by N., and Small
Island at North end of Kongka Island, S.W. i W., by compass. The reef

KINTAR ISLAND -FEEDERICK REEF. 301

lies in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, about three-quarters of a mile in
leno;th, and one-third of a cable in breadth.

KINTAR ISLAND — Thx-ee other islands, with one or two conti(?uous
islets, extend from 4J to 8 miles in a north-westerly direction from the Great
Domino. The large island next northward of Great Domino, named Kintar,
has on its southern end a fine bluff, and when coming from the northward,
before the contiguous islands to the southward are visible, it much resembles
the hill on the East end of Linga.

A rock lies N.W. by W. ^ W., distant 2 miles from Pulo Kapas, which is
a small islet surrounded by a reef, and the north-westernmost of the group
extending from Kintar.

Fly Bank is a small patch of 2 fathoms, lying N.N.W. f W, lOJ miles
from Crocodile Rock, with the high bluff of Kintar bearing South a little
westerly, distant 7f miles, and Pulo Kapas W.S.W. 5A miles ; close to it are
depths of 9 to 13 fathoms.

Pollux Rock lies N.W. about 4 miles from Fly Bank, with the high blulf
of Kintar bearing S. by E. ;^ E. 11 miles, and Pulo Kapas S.S.W. 5^ miles ;
close to it are depths of 10 and 11 fathoms.

RODONG PEAK. — North-westward of Linga Island are many small
islands. The most conspicuous of theoa is Pulo Eodong, or Merodong, which
has a high conical peak, 724 ft. above the sea, the only hill of this feature
in the vicinity. This peak is one of the principal objects which will enable
a stranger to make out the entrance to Rhio Strait. It may, however,
occasionally be useful to vessels working to or from Singapore by the Outer
Route.

The Entrance to RMo Strait between these islands and Pulo Gin to the
N.N.E. of them is 23 miles wide. The space between is free from danger.
SS.E. 16 miles from Pulo Gin is the southern part of a bank carrying 7 and
9 fathoms water. It is 17 miles in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., with its
eastern side steep-to, and at its northern and Pulo Ruig bears N.N.W. \ W.,
which bearing clears also the Geldria and Frederick Reefs. In the N.E.
monsoon much rain and thick weather are experienced, and this bank is a
good guide to clear these reefs, and will save anchoring in deep water.

FREDERICK REEF, in lat. 0° 37' N., long. 105° 9' E., is awash at low
water springs. It consists of two rocks about a cable's length 8part, near
the middle of a coral bank 3 cables in length North and South, and nearly
2 cables in breadth, having 20 to 22 fathoms all around, except at the N.E.
side, where irregular soundings from 10 to 13 fathoms extend half a mile
from it. From the centre of the reef Pulo Ruig, or Ragged Island, bears
N.W. f N. 22 miles, and Pulo Borean W.N.W. 2 If miles.

In the vicinity of this reef in light winds the discolouration of the water is
the only guide, and in fiesh breezes it is dilRcult to distinguish breakers
from the swell. Breakers on the reef can only be distiniruishod when the

302 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE.

tide is setting against the wind with a comparatively smooth sea. Off Bin-
tang Island, at the change of the monsoon in April, the flood tide runs for
18 hours, and the ebb 6 hours. In June the tides are reversed, consequently
a tide against the wind will only take place a few hours each day.

As this most dangerous reef lies in the direct track of vessels, the utmost
care is necessary to avoid it. A vessel will clear it to the eastward by not
going into less than 25 fathoms, and to the westward by keeping Grin Peak
(a conspicuous hill, 337 ft. high), Grunong Kwas (857 ft. high on Bintang),
and Pulo Borean well in sight, until the latter bears W. by N. The high
peak of Linga Island, S.S.W. J W., or Pulo Euig bearing from N.N.W. to
N.W. by N., will also lead clear.

Prom a close examination by Mr. Stanton, in H.M.S. Saracen, soundings
having been taken in every direction to the extent of 7 miles eastward, and
from 4 miles southward of the reef to the Greldria Bank, he was led to be-
lieve that the other reefs which were said to exist near are identical with it,
and that the Frederick Reef is the only danger in this vicinity.

EAST COAST of BINTANG. — Numerous islands and dangers lie off the
southern part of the East coast of Bintang, among which no vessel should
venture. Vessels making passages between Banka and Singapore Straits
should pass outside or to the eastward of the whole of these islands and
dangers ; and it is, therefore, only necessary here to notice the outermost
of them. The whole coast and the islands off it are, as a rule, fringed with
coral.

PULO GIN, or Oreat Island, about 4 or 5 miles in extent, lies about 3 miles
south-eastward of the S.E. extreme of Bintang. Although appearing as but
one island, it is really made up of three small islands separated from each
other by narrow channels, which together form the largest Island off this
part of Bintang. There are several hills on it from 200 to 300 ft. high, and
one, named Gin Peak, rising about the centre of the south-eastern portion of
the island, is 337 ft. high.

Pulo Terobi, the most southern of a cluster of small islets lying to the
eastward of Pulo Gin, is 112 ft. high, and bears E. by S. 2\ miles from the
S.E. extreme of Gin. Pulo Borean, or Saddle Island, is one of the outer
islands lying 3 or 4 miles to the eastward of Pulo Gin, inside the Geldria
Banks, and bears from Pulo Terobi, N. by E. | E. 5 miles. Being saddle-
shaped, it is conspicuous and easily recognised.

Pulo Ruig, or Ragged Island, appropriately named from the irregular ap-
pearance of the trees on its summit, is the outer and easternmost island off
the East coast of Bintang. It is about the same size and height, 315 ft., as
Pulo Borean, and is steep-to at 3 cables' lengths off.

Geldria Bank is the outermost of a dangerous group of shoals lying 13 or
14 miles eastward of Pulo Gin, well out in the fairway of vessels proceeding
between Bankii and Singapore Straits, especially such as pass inside Frede-

PULO PANJANG. 303

rick Eeef. Its North extreme is in lat. 0° 48' N., long. 104° 58' E., from
which it extends S.W. by S. about 2 miles, having 2 to 4 fathoms water over
it, 19 to 20 fathoms nearly close to the eastern side, and 8 to 12 fathoms,
irregular depths, near the S.W. and West sides.

Raleigh Shoal lies W. by S. ^ S. 3 miles from the south-eastern extreme
of the Gr Idria. It has only 2 fathoms water over a coral bottom, from
which Pulo Borean bears W. by N. i N. 5 miles, and Pulo Euig N. by E.
11 miles.

A shoal patch, with only 2 fathoms water over it, coral and sand, lies S.W.
by W. ^ W. nearly 6 miles from the South extreme of the Geldria. It is
nearly a mile in length and half a mile in breadth, and from its centre Pulo
Borean bears N.W. J N., distant 4J miles.

There are several other knolls, with 4 and 5 fathoms over them, between
this patch and the Geldria, of which they are considered to be a continuation ;
they should be avoided by vessels of heavy draught.

Pulo Terobi, the southern islet off Pulo Gin, bearing W. \ S., clears the
southern extreme of the above shoals ; and the Boat Kocks in line with Pulo
Borean W. by S. f S., or Pulo Euig N.N.W. \ W., clears the northern ex-
treme. No good marks can be given to clear the eastern side, which is
steep-to, but the high peak of Linga bearing S.S.W. ^ W., is a broad and
distant clearing mark, and leads over the large sand-bank, carrying 7 to 10
fathoms, south-eastward of Pulo Gin.

Boat Rocks, lying about 2J miles N.W. ^ N. from the North end of the
Geldria Bank, are three low rocks, visible about 4 miles from a ship's deck.

A rocky patch, with 3 fathoms water over it, lies between the northern ex-
treme of the Geldria Bank and the Boat Eocks, the latter bearing N.W. by W.
distant 1 mile. A coral hank, with 3 to 5 fathoms over it, and about 1 mile
in extent, lies W.S.W., 5^ miles from Pulo Euig. Pulo Burean, or Saddle
Island, bearing S.S.W., clears its eastern side.

PULO PANJANG, which in the Malay language signifies Long Island,
lies about 9 miles off the East coast of Bintang. It is a large irregular-
shaped island, about 5 miles in extent. Eocks extend off its S.E. point, the
outer ones of which, named Bare JRocks, are 55 ft. high.

On the N.E. side of the island the coral reef is absent, leaving a small
sandy bay, where vessels may anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, about three-quarters
of a mile off' shore. Wood and water may be procured in this bay, and boats
can approach close to the beach at all hours of the tide.

Fulo Ruig, 315 ft. high, lies 3^ miles E. by S. \ S. from Bare Eocks. It
is nearly a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction.

Passage Rock, 55 ft. high, lies about three-quarters of a mile to the
northward of the N.E. point of Panjang.

Pulo Suto, Middle Mock, Black Bock, and Pulo Blanhap, lying North and
N.W. of Pulo Panjang, form a sort of chain, stretching from outside the

304 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE.

dangers off the North coast of that island to the shore of Bintang, and to
the southward of which no vessel, except under extraordinary circumstances,
should attempt to pass.

North-east Coast of Bintang. — From Tanjong Blanhap to Tanjong Brakit,
8 miles to the N.N.W. ^ W., the N.E. coast of Bintang forms a bay about
2 miles deep, indented with several small bights or coves. Over a point
about a mile N.W. of Tanjong Blanhap is a conspicuous tree, the top of
•which is 252 ft. above the sea ; 2 miles W.N.W. of the tree is a hill, 420 ft.
high. Three-quarters of a mile northward of this hill, close to the coast line
on the deepest part of the large bay, is another, named Double Tree Hill, 334
feet high. Two or three small streams of fresh water appear to discharge
themselves near the middle of this bay.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Horsburgh Lighthouse, Sin-
gapore Strait, at lO** 10" p.m ; at Tanjong Brakit, the N.E. point of Bin-
tang, at ll'^ 0"; at Pulo Suto, at 'o^ 40""; at Pulo Panjang, at 4'' 20™; at
Pulo Borean, at 6'' 0™ ; and at Pulo Terobi, at l** 0"" p.m. The rise is 9 ft.,
but on extraordinary occasions it is 12 ft.

During the shifting months of the monsoons the tidal streams are regular,
but during their strength the surface current will be always more or less
governed by the wind.

The flood tidal wave comes from the northward, and runs nearly parallel
to the East coast of Bintang, along its southern side towards Abang Strait,
and to the northward of E.hio Strait, meeting another tide from Singapore
Strait near the town of Ehio.

The flood sets to the southward along the East coast of Linga, and close
to Tanjong Eung, its south-eastern extreme ; from thence it runs West to
Ponoebo Strait, and obliquely across Linga Bay to Varella Strait. From
Tanjong Eung to Pulo Taya, and onwards to Banka Strait, its direction is
nearly South. Another stream from about 2 miles South of Taya sets
towards Varella Strait.

The ebb stream sets in the opposite direction, and the meeting of this
stream from Banka and Varella Straits was observed to take place near the
supposed position of Smith Bank.

ISLANDS, ETC., BETWEEN BORNEO AND SINGAPOEE

8TEAIT.

PULO DATU, the peak of which, 1,042 feet high, is in lat. 0° 10' N.,
long. 108° 35' 50" E., is an oblong-shaped island, IJ mile in extent N.E. and
S.W., and three-quarters of a mile broad. It is a conspicxious object when
approached from the southward, and is visible from the anchorage in Pon-
tianak and Mampawa Eoads. Close to the island are depths of 6 to 14

DIRECTION AND ST. BAEBE ISLANDS. 305

fathoms; to the westward the soundings are 16 to 19 fathoms, but 29 and
30 fathoms a mile to the eastward of it.

DIRECTION ISLAND, or Pulo Paneely Ketchil, in lat. 0° 14' 39" N., long.
108° r 53' E., is of conical form in the centre, and has a small hill on its
North end. The island is 639 ft. high, and visible in clear weather at 30 or
33 miles off.

A small island lies nearly half a mile off the S.E. extreme of Direction
Island, and in the channel between are depths of 10 to 17 fathoms.

ST. BARBE ISLAND, or Pandjangkang, is high, of triangular form, about
3 miles long, and when first seen appears like two or three islands, beino-
lower at the centre than at the N.E. and West parts. The highest hill on
its N.E. end is 762 ft. high, and in lat. 0° 8' 6" N., long. 107° 13^' E. The
hni on the South end is 684 ft. high.

The South point of the island is cliffy and bold, but a reef fills up the first
bay on its East side. The West side of the island is divided into two small
bays. Off the N.W. point of the island are two or three small rocks a few-
feet above water, and a reef projects about a quarter of a mile from the
point to the northward of it. A small rock above water lies near the middle
of the large bay on the North side of the island, and a third of a mile North
of this rock is another sometimes awash, with 10 and 17 fathoms close to it.
A small ix)ck above water also lies close to the East side of the North point
of the island.

Water, wood, &c., may be procured in a bay on the East side of the N.W.
point of St. Barbe, and also near the S.E. point. As the shore is fronted by
a reef, boats can only land at high tide, at which time fresh water may be
rafted off. Water may also be obtained from the bay at the North point of
the island, abreast of which is the best anchorage in the southerly monsoon.
Wood may also be procured upon the island, and turtle sometimes found
upon its sandy beaches.

Welstead Eock was discovered in 1825 by Captain G. Welstead, com-
manding the ship General Harris, which grazed over it. This officer took
great pains to ascertain its exact position, which is lat. 0^ 32' N., long.
107° 53' E.

The shoal extends half a mile in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, its
breadth being about a cable's length. It consists of a number of pinnacle
rocks, with varying depths of 7 to 3 fathoms ; clore around it are 17 to 23
fathoms.

Ebeling Shoal. — Captain Ebeling, commanding the Chilian ship IfercedeOf
in 1863, reported having sounded in 4^ fathoms upon a coral shoal, and
whilst the lead was being hauled in, the vessel passed over one side of a patch
upon which there appeared to be as little as 16 or 18 ft. water. The bear-
ings given were : — St. Barbe Island, S. 28° W., middle of St. Esprit group,

I. A. 2 E

306 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

N. 79° W. ; Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang (Tambelan group), N. 14° E., which
places the shoal in lat. 0° 31' N., long. 107° 26' E.

The St. Esprit Group (or Watas Islands) consists of 13 or 14 small high
islands and islets, extending about 12 or 13 miles in a W.N.W. and opposite
direction, between the parallels of 0° 31' and 0° 39' N., and the meridians of
106° 58' and 107° HE.; between the islands are deep and generally clear
channels.

S.E. Island, 145 ft. high, in lat. 0° 30f N., long. 107° 8^' E., is a mere
islet,, a quarter of a mile in extent, and connected by a reef to a low white
rock, which lies a quarter of a mile northward of it.

S.W. Island, 305 ft. high, in lat. 0° 33i' N., long. 106° 58^' K, is a mere
islet, bold-to ; close to the southward of it are soundings of 30 to 34 fathoms.

Eowqua Shoal is a doubtful danger, said to lie 4 miles S. % W. from S.W.
Island.

Brace Islands comprise two small islets, about three-quarters of a mile
apart, and a third islet, about twice their size, and 572 ft. high, a mile to
the N.W. of them. The easternmost island, which is also the easternmost
of the group, is in lat. 0° 33f' N., long. 107° 10|' E. A S-fathom patch, with
7 and 8 fathoms around it, lies about half a mile W.S.W. from the northern-
most and largest of the Brace Islands.

Head Island, 372 ft. high, lies near the centre of the group, W N.W. 2
miles from Hound Island, about a mile in extent. The channels on either
side of Head Island appear to be clear of danger, and to have depths of 35
to 45 fathoms water in them ; but with the N.E. extreme of Head Island
bearing S.S.W. i W., distant a mile, and the apex of the northern Brace
Island S.E. by E. ^ E., a little over 4 miles, is the Royalist Rock, close to
which are depths of 38 and 40 fathoms.

Centre Island is the name of a small round islet, 169 ft. high, lying W.
by N. ^ N. 2J miles from Head Island, and about two-thirds of a mile from
the S.E. extreme of the largest island of the St. Esprit group.

The largest island of the St. Esprit group (which is not named upon the
charts) is also the northernmost one. It is If mile long North and South,
and three-quarters of a mile broad, and the hill on its southern end, 825 ft.
high, is in lat. 0° 37' 51" N., long. 107° 0' 50" E.

Bush Island, the westernmost island of the group, lies about W.S.W. 2
miles from the largest island. Its apex, 393 feet high, bear nearly North
of S.W. Island ; the two islands are a little over 2^ miles apart. An islet,
1 20 feet high, named Clump, lies about half a mile northward of its North
point.

Discoloured water has been observed at 20 miles westward of Bush Island.

GREEN ISLAND is small, square-shaped, about a third of a mile in
extent, covered with trees, and has a white sandy beach. It lies in a direct
line between the easternmost of the St. Esprit group and the Tambelan

TAMBELAN ISLANDS. 307

Islands, and is surrounded to a short distance by a reef, near to which are
from 17 to 32 fathoms ; its centre is in lat. 0" 44' 43" N., long. 107° 18' 52" E.

Rodger Rock, upon which the ship Mleti, Capt. Alexander Eodger, struck
in 1845, is of very small extent, and is about 100 yards square ; but at low
water springs there is but 3 ft. water on it. Its position is lat. 0° 41' 15" N.,
long. 107° 31' 12" E., and from it Tambelan Peak is seen over the right
summit of Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang, and bears N. ;| E. ; Green Island,
W. by N. i N., 12| miles; the eastern extreme of the Tambelan group,
N. by E. ; and the western extreme N.N.W. ^ W.

This is an exceedingly dangerous rock, for there are regular soundings of
19 to 22 fathoms close to and for miles around it. The Rifleman was steam-
ing in its vicinity for four days before it was discovered ; it was ultimately
found by the weather tide causing a slight ripple.

There is little doubt but this is the rock seen by Mr. Robert Loney, Pay-
master, E.N., when in command of the Rose Ellis, and marked by that name
in the Admiralty charts. The rock is so far from the islands that the least
error in bearing would cause the discrepancy in the positions given by Cap-
tains Rodger and Loney.

White Rock, about 80 ft. high, lies E. by S., 5 miles from the South end
of Pulo Gigang, or Jarrang, the southernmost island of the Tambelan group,
and on its S.W. side are two small pinnacle rocks, about 12 ft. above high
water.

TAMBELAN ISLANDS lie about 27 miles to the north-eastward of the
St. Esprit group, between the parallels of 0° 52' and 1° 7' N., and the meri-
dians of 107° 21' and 107° 35^' E. They comprise a considerable number of
islands, and form two groups or chains, each extending N.W. and S.E. about
13 or 14 miles, and were surveyed by Commander Ward, E.N., in H.M.S.
Rifleman.

South-Western Group. — Pulo Gigang Besar (or Jarrang), the most south-
eastern island of this group, is If mile long North and South, two-thirds
of a mile broad, and is bordered to a short distance by a reef. It is a high
island, rising to a peaked hill in the centre, and having a lower one near
each extreme. Gigang Ketchil, an island about a quarter the size of Gigang
Besar, lies a mile westward of it, and is also fronted by a reef, which, off its
North end, projects nearly a quarter of a mile.

A coral shoal, of fathoms (probably the Constance Shoal), was found lying
off the S.W. end of Gigang Ketchil, being separated from that island by a
narrow channel of 17 to 22 fathoms water. From its shoalest patch of 3
fathoms water, which is on the western extreme of the shoal, the S.W. end
of the island bears E. by S. ^ S., 9 cables' lengths.

Several other shoal patches and dangers were found near the Tambelan
Islands, but they lie quite out of the ordinary track of vessels.

Three miles N.W. of the Gigang Islands is a group of small islands, the

308 BANKA. TO SINGAPORE.

north-eastern of which, Harhour Island, or Pulo Smot, limits the narrowest
part of the channel between the two main groups of the Tambelan Islands,
Two-thirds of a mile westward of it is a much larger island, Pulo Bedua,
which has four hills upon it, rising N.E. and S.W. of each other, the highest
hill, 408 feet, being near its West end. The channel between the Gigang
Islands and the Bedua group is free from dadger, with soundings of 16 to 23
fathoms.

Bunoa, by far the largest island of the south-western group, is nearly 4
miles long N.W. and S.E., and 2^ miles broad. Its highest part, near its
N.E. end, is elevated 915 ft., and there are several other undulating hills
upon it, from 200 to 700 ft. high. The North shore of the island forms a
bay, in which vessels may anchor in 10 to 16 fathoms, and find excellent
ishelter in the S.W. monsoon. Close to the East side of Bunoa are two
smaller islands, Selindang and Gilla ; Selindang is a remarkable cone-shaped
island, rising to an elevation of 681 ft. ; Gilla is about a third of the height
of Selindang.

The group of ten islands extending nearly 5 miles to the north-westward
of Bunoa, are all tolerably elevated, and Mundaga, the outermost of them, is
697 ft. high. The channels between them are deep and generally free from
danger, but that between Bunoa and Ehd (the island next to the north-
westward of Bunoa) cannot be recommended as being perfectly safe. A reef
extends some distance from the North and N.E. part of Ebul, which renders
the channels between that island and Tamban * and Pening Islands dan-
gerously narrow. A rock atvash lies about a third of a mile from the S.W.
extreme of Leso, the island lying close to the western part of Bunoa ; else-
where these islands appear free from danger, and may be approached to a
half or a third of a mile with safety.

North-Eastern Group. — TAMBELAN, or Great Tambelan, the largest
island of the Tambelan group, is of somewhat triangular shape, nearly 4^
miles in extend N.W. and S.E., and about the same N.E. and S.W. Upon
its N.E. coast are several hills, the highest of which, Tambelan Peak, in lat.
1° r 5" N., long. 107° 32' 22" E., rises to an elevation of 1,300 ft. Zoiv Feah,
643 ft. high, is on the N.W. end of the island ; and a short distance to the
eastward of Tambelan Peak is Thiml Peak, a remarkable sloping hill 953 ft.
high. East Peak, a shap cone 950 ft. high, rises near the eastern extreme
of the island.

Tambelan Island is nearly divided into two parts by a creek, which runs
in a north-easterly direction into its western side. The creek is nearly a mile
wide, but fringed with reefs and encumbered with several rocks. A break-
water, composed of coral, crosses its upper part, about 1^ mile within the

* The principal observatory station of the Rijlcman's survey was upon the North point of
Pulo Tiiinbuu, which was luund to he in kit. 1° 9' 27" N., long, 107" 24' 10" E.

TAMBELAN ISLANDS. 309

entrance, leaving but a narrow boat channel, through which the tide rushes
•with great force. Behind the breakwater is a stockade, and a fort stands
upon the shore near the West end of the breakwater. The whole of these
works have been constructed to defend the village, which is about half a
mile beyond the breakwater on the western bank of the creek, from the
attacks of the Llanun pirates, who occasionally visit these islands, and carry
off into slavery any of the natives they can lay their hands upon.

A reef extends from the East point of Tambelan Island, and upon its edge,
half a mile southward of the point, is a rock above water. The N.E. coast
is almost free from reefs. A reef, with a rock awash on its extreme, extends
about one-third of a mile from the S.W. point of the island, and then trends
away, fronting the coast, into Tambelan Creek.

Pulo Bungin, 253 ft. high, is a small island lying 1:^ mile westward of the
N.W. point of Tambelan. Sedua Besar, 860 ft. high, and Sedua Ketchil, 650
feet high, are two islands which extend from 1^ to 3 J miles north-westward
of Tambelan Island, separated from each other by a very narrow, deep
channel ; both islands are bold close-to.

Sendulang Besar and Sendulang Ketchil, lying 3 miles north-westward of the
Sedua Islands, are two small, round-shaped islands, surrounded to a short
distance by reefs, and separated by a very narrow channel. Sendulang
Besar, the western and larger island, rises to a sharp cone 749 ft. high ; the
Bmaller island is only 309 ft. high.

Pulo Way, the north-westernmost island of the Tambelan group, is about
2 miles in extent, and rises to several peaked hills, the highest of which,
near its eastern end, is elevated 1,057 ft.

Anchorages. — There is good anchorage anywhere between the two groups
of the Tambelan Islands, which form an extensive basin or harbour ; the
depths being generally 17 to 20 fathoms, and the bottom of mud and sand ;
here and there are places where the soundings are a few fathoms more or
less. In the N.E. monsoon a vessel may anchor in the entrance to Tambelan
Creek, but she must go but a very little way inside the edges of the reef, on
account of a pinnacle rock with 2 fathoms water over it, which lies S.S.E.
nearly a quarter of a mile from Suicides Point, the North entrance point to
the creek. This position would be unsafe in the S.W. monsoon ; the best
anchorage at that season being under Bunoa, in 14 to 18 fathoms if in the
bay between Pulo Gilla and Bunoa, and in from 9 to 14 fathoms if in the
bay on the North side of the latter island, which is the best anchorage.

Supplies.— Ships cannot depend upon procuring supplies at the Tambelan
Islands. The officers of the Bifieman were only able to obtain a few fowls,
and those few with great difficulty. There is a well of good water just to
the northward of the mound on the South side of the entrance to Tambelan
Creek, and another on the North side about 2 cables' lengths northward of
Suicides Point. The village in the creek is inhabited by about 500 Malays,

310 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

and the other islands of the group are temporarily inhabited for the purpose
of collecting cocoa-nuts. Goats are also bred upon these islands, but at the
period of the Rifleman's visit none could be purchased.

EUROPE SHOAL is about a mile in extent N. by E. and S. by W., and
the least water on it 3 fathoms, is about the middle of the shoal, in lat.
1° 11' 19" N., long. 107" 25' 27" E., the Eocky Islets bearing W. J S. 12^
miles ; Gap Rock E. f N. 9 miles ; summit of Pulo Way S. by W. i W. 5^
miles ; western extreme of the Tambelan Group S.S.W. ^ W. 6J miles; and
eastern extreme S.E. southerly \b\ miles.

ROCKY ISLETS, lying N.W. by W. ^ W., 12 miles from Pulo Way, are
merely two barren rocks, the resort of sea birds. They are bold close-to,
and occupy a space about 2 cables in extent. The northern and larger rock,
134 ft. high, is in lat. 1° 11' 9" N., long. 107^ 13' E. Between them and the
Tambelan Group the depths are 33 and 34 fathoms.

GAP ROCK, in lat. 1" 12' 30" N., long. 107° 34' 20" E., and distant 12J
miles N. ^ W. from the eastern extreme of the Tambelan Group, is very re-
markable. It consists of two large boulders lying upon a flat rock, the
larger of which is 124 ft. above the water. A shoal extends about 2 cables'
lengths from its South side.

ST. JULIAN, in lat. 0° 55' 40" N., long. 106° 43' 30" E., is a remarkable
island, being nearly a mile long E.S.E. and W.N.W., and 200 yards broad.
It is low in the centre, rising to a hill 318 ft. high on the South end, and to
another, 537 ft. high, on the North end, which latter forms an exceedingly
bold cliff to seaward. There is deep water close-to on all sides.

CAMELS HUMP, in lat. 1° 11' 46" N., long. 106^ 58' E., is about half a
mile long, East and West, and a third of a mile broad. It is well named,
the highest part of the island forming a sort of hump, elevated 574 ft. above
the sea. No danger was discovered in its vicinity.

SADDLE ISLAND, in lat. 1° 19' 21" N., long. 107° 2' 17" E., is only half
a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. This island is also well named ;
the hills forming the saddle are in line on a S. ^ W. and opposite bearing,
the higher one on the North side being 387 ft. high.

BARREN ISLAND is a whitish rock, 80 ft. high, and its summit (by the
Bifleman) is in lat. 1° 31' 50' N., long. 106° 25' 35" E. It is justly denomi-
nated Barren, having not the slightest trace of vegetation, and is bold-to,
with 10 fathoms close alongside. It appears to be the resort of varieties of
sea-fowl, which, in the season of incubation, deposit great quantities of eggs,
— the tern, kittiwake, and gulls occupying the summit, the booby, or gannet,
the base. The Malay fishermen resort here for these eggs, and from the
stores found en caclie cannot be very particular as to their freshness. Of the
eggs, those of the tern were not inferior to plover, and those of the gannet
nearly equal to the duck, making very acceptable omelettes and puddings. —

Oil the N.W. side of Barren Island is a natural reservoir, containing about

VICTORY AND ST. PIERRE ISLANDS. 311

10 gallons of water. It is asserted that it is used by the Malays possibly by
previous cleansing of the reservoir Landing is easy on the western side.

VICTORY ISLAND, in lat. 1° 34' 46" N., long. 106° 18' 40" E., is densely
wooded, and rises to a hill in the centre, 285 ft. high.

HUGHES SHOAL.— The Rifleman, in April, 1863, searched for the Doubt-
ful Reef, said " to have been seen in the brig Bombay Merchant, commanded
by Mr. Hughes, in January, 1825, and was nearly in one with Victory
Island, bearing N.E. 5 or 6 miles."

The Rifleman anchored on a shoal — the island bearing N.E. f E., distant
half a mile — in 3i fathoms, reduced to low water springs, which was the
least water found. This shoal is of coral, one-third of a mile long, N.E. and
S.W., and a quarter of a mile broad, its outer edge in 8 fathoms lying S.W.
^ W. three-quarters of a mile from the island.

Acasta Rock, lying N. by W. 4 miles from Victory Island, is just under
the surface of the water, and in calm weather presents exactly the appearance
described in Horsburgh, " the central part of a very brown colour, declining
to a pale green around." The least swell breaks on it.

ST. PIERRE ISLANDS are wooded, and appear to be connected by a
reef. St. Pierre Rock, South, nearly 1| mile distant from the southern tree-
covered island of St. Pierre, and in lat. 1° 51' 44" N., long. 108° 38' 57",
(4° 47' 39" East of Fort Fullerton, Singapore), is about 30 yards in lengthy
20 yards in width. It is very steep-to, and is never less than 6 ft. above
water, the dry surface being completely blackened. It is, indeed, formed of
a close-grained, black basalt, and is not to be confounded with the coralline
incrustations about it. Close around its margin are 14, 15, and 19 fathoms.
The space between the islands and the rock is sate, having depths of 20
fathoms.

Tides. — The ebb tide between the St. Pierre Group and Tanjong Api sets
to the southward. The current of flood, which prevailed during the ex-
amination of St. Pierre Rock, set to the N.E. The rise of tide did not ex-
ceed 4 ft.

General Remarks. — As the Rifleman was constantly shifting her position
during the operations of the survey, no good opportunity offered for obtain-
ing a series of tidal observations. Such as were procured were so irregular,
that no general conclusion could be formed from them. It was observed,
however, that during the S.W. monsoon (from the middle of July to the
middle of September), and also during the N.E. monsoon (in the month of
December), that the tides set to windward every day against the prevailing
current, although they were uncertain as to commencement and time of
duration.

The weather was very fine, and the winds generally light. Sailing vessels
would frequently shorten their passages through this part of the China Sea,
if they kept a kedge ready to let go during light airs and calms, and when

312 BANK A TO SINGAPOEE.

both current and tide would otherwise be setting them back over the ground
they had with difficulty gained.

Directions from Singapore Strait to Tanjong A2n in Borneo. — Quitting the
Komania Islands and Shoals, where there are pretty regular tides, the
current off shore will be found to run about N.N. W. in the S.W. monsoon,
and having gained 50 miles easting, its greatest strength will be found set-
ting between Pulo Timoan and the Anamba Islands.

In order to obviate the effect of this set or current, it is considered prudent
to make good the course for Saddle Island, by which, should light airs pre-
vail, the option will be afforded of steering clear of Victory or Barren Islands,
and avoiding the Acasta Eock. This caution may appear as unnecessary,
the distance between Barren and Camel Islands being 33 miles. But a very
little consideration will satisfy the navigator that, upon the course shaped to
counteract the current, running strong in the vicinity of these islands (to the
north-eastward as near as could be determined by the lines of scum viewed
from the summit of Barren Island), he would not, even, with a fair wind,
pass more than 10 miles to windward of Victory and Barren Islands. On
leaving Barren Island, a course should be shaped to pass well to the south-
ward of the St. Pierre Islands.

In the N.E. monsoon the current will generally be found setting about
S.S.E., a few miles outside the entrance of Singapore Strait, taking a more
south-easterly direction as the distance from the land is increased. For
directions for leaving Singapore Strait during this monsoon, see page 56.

The soundings off St. Pierre Pock, and in the direct course for Tanjong
Api, range between 20 and 15 fathoms, and approaching this headland the
first cast under 1 5 fathoms at night should be deemed the warning. If in a
sailing vessel, deep water to the northward must be sought for. By day, as
the land is neared, the vessel's position may readily be determined by the
relative position of the coast hillocks, with the mountain range behind, and
if clear, the land of Tanjong Datu should be clearly made out before attempt-
ing to close, or communicate with, Tanjong Api. — Sir Edw. Belcher.

2.— RHIO STEAIT.

General Description. — The route outside Linga and through Ehio Strait,
is the one now commonly adopted by vessels proceeding either way between
Sunda Strait and Singapore, for the reason that Ehio Strait is " safe, shel-
tered, and easily navigable, the Dutch Government having placed beacons
on many of the dangers ; whereas the route outside Bintang is exposed in
both monsoons, and the fairway encumbered with many rocks ai^d shoals,
which render it necessary for vessels to keep a great distance from the land."

This route is particularly convenient for vessels leaving Singapore for

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EHIO STRAIT— MISSANA ISLAND. , 313

Europe in the N.E. monsoon, and few navigators now adopt any other ; as
by proceeding through Rhio Strait, they avoid the delay and incovenienee
frequently experienced during that season in getting to sea by the main
channel of Singapore Strait, past Horsburgh lighthouse. In the S.W. mon-
soon, also, vessels are frequently able to proceed to the southward much
quicker by Rhio Strait than by the route outside Bintang.

The following directions are taken from those drawn up by Lieutenant
J. W. Reed, R.N., who together with Lieut. Tizard and the officers of H.M.S.
Rifleman, surveyed the strait between the years 1865 and 1868.

Caution.— As the buoys in Rhio Strait have at times been reported out of
position, too much reliance must not be placed on them.

WEST SIDE OF THE STRAIT.

MISSANA ISLAND, which with the opposite island of Talang forms the
southern limit of the strait, is somewhat peculiar in shape, consisting of two
narrow ranges of hills, moderately elevated, which running in different direc-
tions form an elbow ; the longer range extends from the South point of the
island 4 J miles in a N. by W. \ W. direction, and the shorter range E. by S.,
2 miles from the northern part.

Niamok, a small square-shaped island, lies \\ mile south-eastward of the
South point of Missana, and between them is a rocky islet, and several dan-
gers which block the channel. A small, thickly-wooded islet lies a quarter
of a mile south-eastward of the East point of Missana, forming with the
eastern side of that island and Niamok a bay, which appears to offer excel-
lent anchorage ; but it is treacherous, a;nd must be entered with caution, for
a reef extends nearly a mile in a north-easterly direction from Niamok, while
the shore of Missana is fronted by a reef which projects in places nearly
three-quarters of a mile, and just embraces the small 'islet off the East point.
Vessels may, however, find safe and convenient anchorage anywhere in the
bay, in from 5| to 8 fathoms, by avoiding to bring the eastern part of the
small islet to the eastward of N.E. by E. \ E., and the eastern side of
Niamok to the eastward of S. by E. J E. ; the South point of Missana bear-
ing W. by S. clears the reef which projects from Niamok.

The shore reef extends but a short distance from the north-eastern part of
Missana, but from the North shore it projects about half a mile, and a 2-
fathoms patch lies some distance outside the edge of the reef, which makes
it dangerous to approach that shore nearer than a mile. A mass of rocks
above water lies 2 or 3 cables westward of Observation Point, the N.W.
point of the island, westward and south-westward of which other dangers
extend more than half a mile.

I. A. :i s

314 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

RODONG PEAK, 797 ft. high, bears S.W. by W. 4^ miles from theN.W.
point of Missana. Viewed from the southward, it presents a conical appear-
ance, and being the only hill of this feature in the vicinity is very conspicuous.
It is one of the principal objects which will enable a stranger to make out
the entrance to Rhio Strait, for it can nearly at all times be seen over Missana
as the strait is approached. The hill, from the peak, forms a shoulder to
the north-westward, and then gradually slopes away in that direction, so that
as Missana is passed the conical shape disappears.

BINAN ISLAND, lying "W.N.W. 3^ miles from Missana, is easily recog-
nised by a conspicuous hill, 269 ft. high, at the S.E. end. A reef fronts the
greater part of Binan, extending a quarter of a mile off the North part, and
more than double that distance off the N.W. extreme.

Rifleman Shoal, a patch of hard sand 3 cables in extent, lies about a mile
off the centre of Binan ; the least water upon it is 2 fathoms, and from this
spot the hill on the island bears S.W., and the N.W. extreme W. by N.

Katang Linga lies 1| mile N.W. by W. from Binan; it is a bold, bluff-
looking island, 246 ft. high, nearly a mile long, and half a mile broad ; a
shore reef fronts the greater part of it, extending off in some places nearly
1^ cable. A shoal, having but three-quarters of a fathom water over it, lies
three-quarters of a mile W.S.W. from the North point of Katang Linga.

The straits and islands dividing them, which lie to the westward of Mis-
sana, Binan, Katang Linga, &c., are hereafter described.

Selanga Islands, three in number, are mere islets, but elevated and con-
spicuous ; they lie to the north-westward of the Tetampan Group, the
northern one bearing from the North end of Katang Linga W. by S., distant
3 miles. Vessels working should not stand within a line drawn between
Katang Linga and the North Selanga, which will keep them clear of the
shoal W.S.W. of the first named island, and of a reef, having a rock with a
tree upon it, which lies between the Tetampan Group and the Selangas ; and
a 2-fathom patch lies 2 cables North of the North Selanga.

Oedek Island is small. It lies N.W. by W. J W., 3^ miles from the
North Selanga, and E. by N. from the North end of the long island of Pan-
gallap. This island, as well as the Selangas, lies quite out of the track of
steamers, or of sailing vessels proceeding through Rhio Strait with a fair
wind, but it may sometimes be found convenient when working through to
stand so far to the westward, in which cases ships should not pass a line
drawn between the North Selanga and Oedek, in order to avoid a rock awash
which lies W. J N., If mile from the former island.

PULO DUMPO or RONDO, 129 ft. high, lies N.W. i W. 7^ miles from
Katang Linga, and about \h mile south-eastward of the South end of Ga-
lang Island. It is a remarkable little island, showing very round and bold
against the adjacent land, and is one of the most useful objects for recog-
nising the entrance to the narrow part of the strait when coming from the

EHIO STEAIT— LITTLE GAEEAS LIGHTHOUSE. 315

southward. A patch of 2 fathoms, named Haai Shoal, lies a quai-ter of a
mile to the south-eastward of it ; a^jd there is a rock above water a good
quarter of a mile to the north-westward.

Great Bank. — Galang terminates to the southward in a loner narrow point,
projecting in a S.S.E. ^ E. direction, and half a mile to the eastward are
three small islands lying in a line parallel to it ; between the point and
outer island is a coral patch with 2 fathoms water over it, and 7 to 9 fathoms
round about. Between these islands and the large one of Selatan, about 3
miles north-eastward of them, is a deep bay fronted by a bank, named by
the Dutch, Groote or Great Bank. This bank has 2i to 3 fathoms over it,
3^ to 5 fathoms between it and the small islands, and 4 to 8 fathoms be-
tween it and Selatan. The anchorage in the bay inside the bank was for-
merly considered to be good, but large reefs and shoals extend, both from
Galang and Selatan, which render it anything but a safe and convenient
place for large vessels seeking a temporary anchorage to resort to.

East Bank lies N.N.E. J E. 4f miles, from Eulo Eondo, its outer or
northern part being a third of a mile S.E. ^ E. of Tanjong Dempoe, the
eastern point of the adjacent islands. It is a little more than half a mile in
extent, with f to 1^ fathom water over it, and 10 to 12 fathoms near it.

Tjassens Shoal is an extensive bank, with 1^ to 3 fathoms water over it,
lying between Eulo Taron (the island close to the northward of Selatan) and
the southern part of Great Garras Island ; the S.E. extreme, which is nearly
in the line between Dempoe Eoint and the East end of Great Garras, termi-
nates in a reef which dries at half- tide. Former charts exhibited a clear
channel on each side of Tjassens Shoal, but the northern one is very narrow
at the western end, does not afford a greater depth than 3 fathoms, and is
only available for small vessels ; the southern channel is good, being nowhere
less than three-quarters of a mile wide, with depths of 6 to 13 fathoms.
Navigators using it, however, must be careful, when avoiding the shoal, to
give a berth to a small patch of reef which lies a third of a mile off the N.E.
part of Tarong, and after the West end of Great Garras is brought to bear
N.E., that island must be approached in order to avoid the bank extending
from the opposite shore, and upon which are some patches of reef; the
northernmost of these patches has a small islet upon it, and lies N.W. a
little over a mile from the West end of Great Garras.

LITTLE GARRAS ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE marks the entrance of
the narrow part of Ehio Strait. It is but a quarter of a mile long East and
West, formed of two small hills, and encompassed by a narrow fringe of
reef. On the eastern hill is the lighthouse, painted white, from which is
exhibited a. Jixed bright liffht, elevated 114 ft. above the sea, and visible 8
miles. This light is very useful for guiding vessels into the narrow part of
the strait by night, and leading them between Fankel and the Moebet
Islands, and northward until Sau light comes in sight.

316 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE.

Ditloffs Reef, lying about three-quarters of a mile S. by E. from the
eastern extreme of Little Garras, has from 4^ to 10 fathoms water close to
it ; and between it and that island is a patch with 2 to 3 fathoms water
over it.

GREAT GARRAS ISLAND is 3 J miles long W. by N. and E. by S., and
three-quarters of a mile broad ; it has a flat summit, and terminates with
abrupt points. A reef encircles it, and extends in places a quarter of a mile
off. A patch of reef lies about a third of a mile from the N.W. point of the
island, and from that point halfway along the North coast of the island, a
bank, with but 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, projects nearly a mile, and for
half a mile farther in the same direction the soundings are under 5 fathoms ;
large vessels should not, therefore, stand inside a line drawn between Little
Garras and East Moebet Island.

Tarong Point, the N.E. extreme of Galand Island, bears N.N.W. | W. 2^
miles from the West end of Great Garras ; it has on its northern side a small
bay, in which is a native village. A reef fronts the point at a distance of a
quarter of a mile, and outside of it a shoal bank rounds away to the small
islet opposite Great Garras.

MOEBOET ISLANDS.— At 6 miles N.W. J N. from Little Garras is the
larger and higher of the two Moeboet Islands, readily distinguished by its
prominent position, and the deep inlets to the westward and southward. It
rises to a round peak, with the greatest declivity on the eastern side ; whilst
the smaller island, or West Moebet, is considerably lower towards its centre.
Dangerous reefs and shoals extend from these islands lA^ mile to the south-
ward. The West end of Great Garras bearing S. by W. clears them to the
eastward, and the extreme of Tarong Point in one with the extreme of a
point a mile westward of it bearing W. by N. | N., clears them to the south-
ward. Shoals also extend more than a mile north-westward of East Moeboet,
The North and East extremes of Semboland Point in one bearing about
N.W. is a close mark for the eastern side of them, and the South end of
Paukel, bearing E. by S. f S., clears them to the northward.

SEMBOLANG POINT, the eastern extreme of Eempang Island, is the
next prominent object on the western side of the main channel after passing
northward of the Moeboet Islands. It is fronted by a reef, close to which
are 5 to 9 fathoms. Erom this point the land trends to the westward, in-
creasing the width of the strait.

TIEMARA BANK lies N.W. | N. 3^ miles from Sembolang Point, and
about 1 J mile eastward of Tiemara Island ; it is about half a mile in extent,
with 1 J fathom water over it, and 7 to 9 fathoms near it. A black buoy with
ivhite ring is moored on the eastern side of the bank, in 3 fathoms, with the
N.E. point of Tiemara bearing N.W. by W., and the East point of Pulo
Loban N.N.E. To avoid the bank, Sembolang Point should not be brought

RHIO STRA.it— SAU ISLAND AND LIGHTHOUSE. 317

East of S.S.E., nor the eastern extreme of Little Tiemara Island to the
North of N.W.

TIEMARA ISLAND is elevated 341 ft., and when first seen appears like
a bold point projecting from Rempang ; it is surrounded at a short distance
by a reef. Little Tiemara Island, lying about a mile N. by W. i W. from
the N.E. point of Tiemara Island, is about a third of a mile in extent, and
surrounded by a reef which on the East side of the island projects a quarter
of a mile; near the reef are 12 to 21 fathoms water. Between the Tiemara
Islands are several reefs, which render the channel unnavigable.

At 2|- miles N.W. from Little Tiemara is Antu Islet, off the North and
East sides of which a reef extends for a quarter of a mile, and forms the
southern side of the eastern entrance to Bulang Strait. To the eastward of
a line joining Little Tiemara, and a little islet on the reef eastward of Antu
Islet, there is a shoal which fills up the bay lying eastward of Pulo Kantyil
and Ayer Radya.

Innang Reef bears from Little Tiemara Island N.N.W. \ W. distant
nearly 3 miles. It is marked by a wkite buoy with hlach ring in 5\ fathoms,
on its eastern point, with the South point of Pulo Loban bearing E. by S. J S,,
Sau light N. h W., and the South point of Pulo Innang W. ^ S. Near it
are depths of 10 fathoms, and southward and south-westward of it is a small
bank of 4tV and 5 fathoms.

INNANG ISLAND, H mile northward of Ajer Radja, forms the northern
side of the entrance to Bulang Strait. A reef fronts the island to the dis-
tance of a third of a mile. Sau lighthouse, if not brought to the north-
ward of N. by W. ^ W., will keep a vessel clear of Innang Reef and the
tongue of rocks and sand extending from Sau.

SAU ISLAND and LIGHTHOUSE.— Sau Island is larger than Innang,
and lies to the northward of it. Inside these two islands are several small
islands, with channels between them into Bulang Strait. A detached rocky
patch lies S.S.E., a quarter of a mile from the eastern point of Sau. The
lighthouse, painted white, is erected on the East point of Sau Island, from
it di fixed bright light is exhibited at an elevation of 118 ft., visible 8 miles off.

Little Innang Island and Van Gogh's Shoal.— Little Innang is a small
island lying off' the N.E. part of Sau, opposite West Point, Bintang, from
which it is distant nearly 2 miles ; it is encompassed by the reef which runs
in a northerly direction from the East point of Sau.

Dangerous shoals extend for 2i miles to N.N.W. from Little Innang Island ;
and Van Gogh's Islet, N.W. by W. * W. from the East point of Little
Innang, is situated on a coral reef. The East point of Sau in line with the
East point of Little Innang clears all these dangers to the eastward, and
Malang Yarong (an islet on the opposite coast) bearing E. i S. clears them
to the northward. The soundings decrease rather quickly under a depth of
10 fathoms near the dangers just described, and in the event of a vessel

318 BANK A TO SINGAPOEE.

standing towards the southernmost of them getting a cast of 10 fathoms or
less, she should tack immediately.

Malang Orang Reef. — The N.E. coast of Battam, from abreast Sau
Island to Nongsa or Boerong Point, which forms the western point of the
North entrance to Rhio Strait, is fronted by a reef, extending in some places
to the distance of three-quarters of a mile from it. The Malang Orang Reef
lies nearly three-quarters of a mile from the Battam shore, and about E.S.E.
from Malang Orang Point. It is nearly half a mile in extent North and
South, with 5 to 8 fathoms near it. It is marked by a black buoy with white
ring on its eastern edge, in 9 fathoms, with Pan beacon bearing N.E. \ E.

PAN REEF, lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance of Rhio
Strait, is extensive and rocky, and visible at low water, when it appears as a
long ridge of black stones. It is half a mile long N.E. f N. and S.W. ^ S.,
and 2 cables broad ; and close to it are depths of 5 to 7 fathoms, except at
the S.W. end, where it is not so steep. A large screw pile beacon is placed
near the NE. end of the shoal, and a black buoy with white ring, in 8 fathoms,
on the S.W. point of the reef, with Sau light bearing South, and Pan beacon
N.E. The other edges of the shoal are sometimes marked by small basket
beacons, but they are not to be depended upon. There is a safe passage on
either side of the shoal, but the native pilots, who generally conduct vessels
through Rhio Strait, seldom use the eastern channel, where the depths are
inconvenient for bringing up in case of bad weather.

Barbukit kept North, or N. \ W., leads eastward of the Great Pan, and
Johore Hill bearing about N. by W. | W. leads westward ; but Sau light-
house in line with the East extreme of Little Innang, bearing S. ^ E., is a
good leading mark for passing between the Pan Shoals ; and the lighthouse
bearing S. f W. leads to the eastward of the Great Pan. In passing east-
ward of the shoal, when Tanjong Nongsa (Boerong Point), the northern
extreme of Battam, bears W. by N., or when Pulo Nongsa is just shut in
behind Tanjong Nongsa, a vessel will be to the northward of it, and has
entered the Strait of Singapore.

Riondo Shoal, said to lie about N.W. ^ W., distant 1^ mile from the Pan
Shodl, does not exist ; the locality has been thoroughly examined.

LITTLE PAN REEF lies N.W. i N., 2^ miles from the Pan Reef. It
is a small oval-shaped coral patch, with depths of 31 to 7 fathoms close
around it. It is marked by a black buoy with white ring, in 3 fathoms, at
its northern extremity, with Pan Reef beacon bearing S.E. by E., and
Boerong Point W. by N. Pulo Nangsa just open of Nongsa Point leads
just clear to the northward ; and Sau Point open of the land southward of
Malang Orang Point leads close to the eastward.

EHIO STRAIT— SIOLON ISLAND. 319

EAST SIDE OF THE STEAIT.

Talang, or Long Island, may be known by a square hillock over its S.E,
end, lioQ ft. high, which, with a sharper peak westward of it, forms a saddle;
the land from this to the western end of the island is nearly of the same
elevation.

Gin, or Great Island, lies 2 miles to the eastward of the northern part of
Talar.g, and forms one of the objects which serve to mark the entrance of
Ehio Strait.

Hendrik Jan Rod, on which a Dutch ship of that name struck in February
1861, is a dangerous pinnacle, nearly awash at low water, and steep-to,
having 9 and 10 fathoms close around it. It lies S.E. three-quarters of a
mile from the south-eastern point of Talang, with the summit of South-west
Hill just shut in by the south-western extreme of Talang.

This rock is of small size, and there was great difficulty in finding it.
Several other shoal patches were found in the channel between Talang and
Gin ; but they all, except the Hendrik Jan, lie out of the ordinary track of
ships, and are dangerous only in the event of this channel being mistaken
in thick weather for the entrance of Ehio. Vessels should give these islands
a berth of 2 miles in passing, and not bring Terobi Island eastward of
E. f N., until South-west Hill is well open of Talang.

SIOLON, or MANTANG ISLAND, 7 miles long, E. by N. and W. by S.,
and 2^ miles broad, but divided by a narrow channel, lies to the north-
westward of Talang, and is separated from it by a channel about IJ miles
wide. On its S.W. end is South-west hill, 267 ft. high, which, when seen
from the southward, appears as a double-peaked hiU, terminating to the
westward in a point, which forms the S.W. extreme of the island ; but when
viewed from the northward it makes with a peaked top. Four miles east-
ward of South-west Hill is Stolon Hill, 507 ft. high, being the highest hiU
on Siolon. At a distance of 12 miles to the southward both Siolon and
South-west Hills appear as islands, owing to the land between them being
low.

The South shore of Siolon Island, between South-west and Siolon Hills,
forms a bay about a mile deep, and is fronted bj' a fringe of reef and a shoal
bank, extending out in places nearly three-quarters of a mile. Upon this
bank lie two or three detached patches of reef. Thomas Shoal, a patch 4
cables in extent, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, lies W.S.W. from Segai
Islet, distant nearly a mile. There is anchorage under the southern shore
of Siolon, between South-west Hill and Thomas Shoal, 3f miles eastward of
it, in from 10 to 6 fathoms, with shelter from northerly winds.

There are channels on either side of Siolon which will lead out into the
China Sea, northward of Pulo Gin ; but as they are quite out of the ordi-

320 BANKA TO SINGAPOllE.

nary track of vessels, they should not be attempted by any one not locally
acquainted. The tides in the channels run with, great strength, and there"
are numerous overfalls.

Alligator Island, l^- mile W.N.W. from the western end of Siolon ; seen
from the westward, shows as three round lumps, but when approached from
the northward, it appears to slope gradually from its northern end, which, is
101 ft. high. There is no passage between Alligator Island and Siolon.

Alligator Reef, lying nearly a mile North of Alligator Island, is a quarter
of a mile in extent. It is marked by a white buoy with hlack ring on its
N.W. edge, in 4 fathoms, with West point of Alligator Island bearing
S. i E. ; Topie Island, South point, W. by S. | S. ; and Blading Island
N. by E.

Blading Island, lying \\ mile to the northward of Alligator Reef, is small
and surrounded by a reef which extends in a southerly direction more than
a quarter of a mile. Eastward of Alligator Eeef and Blading Island are
several other reefs and islands, lying off the northern shore of Siolon.

Prins Reef, about a third of a mile in extent, 1^ mile N. by W. from
Blading, lies on the outer edge of the shoal bank which fronts Batu Babie
Point.

The Topics are a cluster of small round islets and rocks lying about 2 miles
westward of Alligator Reef. Topie in the Malay language signifies hat, and
when approached from the southward these islets, as they rise above the
horizon, certainly present very much the appearance of the round, inverted,
basin-shaped topics, or hats, in use among the Malays. The northern and
eastern islands are the largest of the group; the former is 134 feet, and
the latter 118 feet high. When approaching the eastern island from the
northward, it appears of a crown shape, and in clear weather may be seen
10 miles off.

A rock lies close off the N.E. end of the eastern island ; and a hank half
a mile long, with 2f fathoms water over it, lies with its outer edge bearing
S.E. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile from the same island.

Rotterdam Reef is a rocky patch, with only 1^ fathom water over it,
lying W.S.W. a little more than half a mile from the northern of the Topies
group. It is marked by a white buoy with hlack ring, in 2| fathoms, on its
West side, with South point of Pankel bearing N.W. by W. 3 W., and Topie
Island centre E. by N. i N.

There is another reef, with but little water over it, lying N, by W. ^ W.,
nearly half a mile from the Western Topie ; its northern end is marked by
a beacon. Near these dangers are 6 and 4 fathoms.

Dutch Shoal, a quarter of a mile in extent, with 3 fathoms water over it,
and 6 or 7 fathoms close to the western side of it, lies with Little Garras
lighthouse bearing S. I W., 3J miles ; the northern island of the Topies
group E. by S. | S., 3* miles ; and the S. W. extreme of Pankel N.W. i W.,

PANKEL ISLAND. 321

H mile. The novtliern Topie bearing E. by S. i S., and the 8.W. extreme
of Pankel N."W. i N., will lead a quarter of a mile S.W. of this danger.

This shoal is on the western edge of a bank, with 3 to 6 fathoms water
on it, which lies about a mile off the S.E. end of Pankel, and extends 3^
miles farther in that direction from the island. A good mark to keep clear of
the entire western edge is the apex of Loban Island in line with the western
extreme of Pankel. Between the bank and Pankel the depths are 6 to 10
fathoms.

PANKEL ISLAND, 2 miles long North and South, and half a mile broad,
bounds the eastern side of the main channel of Ehio Strait, abreast of Great
Grarras and the Moeboet Islands ; it is belted by a reef which extends from a
quarter to half a mile from it. Outside the shore reef at the N.W. part of
the island, a bank with less than 3 fathoms water over it, projects to a dis-
tance of three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Eastward of this bank,
and half a mile northward of the North point of the island, lies Pankel
Reef, a patch of rocks about a quarter of a mile in diameter. Pankel, at a
distance, makes as two distinct round hills ; on a nearer approach a sandy
beach will be seen at its South end, from which rocks and fishing stakes
extend nearly three-quai'ters of a mile.

Rupels Reef, about a mile to the eastward of Pankel, has a hlach buoy with
white ring on its East side, in 5 fathoms, with East point of Sore bearing
N. by E. ; Pankel, N.W. point, N.W. i W. ; and Pankel, S.E. point,
S.W. by W.

Sore Island, lying E. by N. f N. nearly H mile from the North end of
Pankel, is a small, round island, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and sur-
rounded by a reef. A shoal bank, with less than 3 fathoms water on it,
extends three-quarters of a mile to the south-eastward, the tail, with 3i to
5 fathoms water, stretching nearly a mile farther in the same direction.
N.N.W. from the island the shore reef extends more than half a mile, and
half a mile farther in the same direction lies a detached reef, nearly a third
of a mile in diameter ; in the channel between are 5 to 8 fathoms. Nearly a
mile from this last, in a N.W. I N. direction, lies the S.E. end of the largest
of the Sore Reefs ; it is a narrow strip of sand and coral, a little more than
IJ mile long N.W. I W. and S.E. J E., and marked by a ivhite buoy with
hlach ring on its N.W. end in 2i fathoms, with Pitjingit bearing E. by N.
i N., and Terkolei light N. by W. | W.

The channel, limited on one side by Eupels Eeef, Pankel Island and
Pankel Eeef, and on the other by Sore Island and the reefs and banks adja-
cent to it, is perfectly free from danger, with depths of 9 to 14 fathoms.

Dompa is an irregularly shaped island ; its western extreme, named
Dompa Point, bears N.E. by E. 2 miles from Sore, and N. by W. 6 miles
from the northern island of the Topies. Two small islands, surrounded by
I. A. :<i T

322 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

reefs, lie oflP the South shore of Dompa. On the outer edge of the reef ex-
tending from Dompa Point is a white buoy with black ring, in 3 fathoms,
with Dompa Point beaiing N.N.E. ^ E., West end of Basing Island S.E. \ E.,
and the end of Sore Island W.S.W.

The channel between the edge of the bank extending from the S.W. side
of Dompa, and Sore Island and Reefs, is about 1 mile wide, and is generally
used by vessels bound to Rhio from the southward ; the depths in it vary
from 8 to 19 fathoms.

KHIO ISLAND is about 4J miles in length East and West, and 2\ miles
wide, and, being separated from the manland of Bintang by a very narrow
channel, appears to form part of it. The town, which stands on the N.W.
point of the island, was formerly a port of much trade ; and although its
importance has for many years declined, it is still a place of considerable
traffic for small vessels. There is a well-built fort on a hill commanding the
town.

Tanjong Pinang, N.E. | N. 2J miles from Tanjong Dompa, is distin-
guished by a beacon, consisting of a white square pyramid, 16 ft. high, N. by
W. 2^ cables from it.

1 he usual anchorage is in 3 or 4 fathoms, about 2 miles northward of the
West end of Dompa, sheltered from the northward by the island of Pitjingit.
The soundings decrease gradually to 4 and 3^ fathoms, but shoal suddenly
under a depth of 3 fathoms. It is high water, full and change, at 9*" 50" ;
springs rise 7 ft., neaps 5 ft.

Pakko is a small islet lying about half a mile off the western shore of Rhio
Island, and N.W. by NV. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile from Pinang beacon,
in the middle of a rocky bank about half a mile in extent. There is a narrow
channel between the bank and the western shore of Rhio, having \^ to 2
fathoms water in it, and which is marked on the western, or rocky bank side,
by three beacons.

Pitjingit, or Mars Island, lies half a mile westward of the N.W. point of
Rhio, opposite the town. The island is about a mile long East and West, a
third of a mile broad, is surrounded by a reef, which projects from its
southern and western sides about a quarter of a mile. Sengarang Island
projects some 3 miles to the north-westward of Rhio, forming a roadstead or
anchorage between it and Pitjingit. Vessels usually enter by the narrow
channel between the Pakko Reef and the West shore of Rhio. Loz, or Loos,
is a small island lyiug close to the West end of Sengarang, inside the margin
of the reef which extends from that island.

Terkolei Island and Lighthouse, — Terkolei Island, lying W.N.W. 4 miles
from Pitjingit, is a low, flat iJand, about half a mile in extent, with a clump
of trees on its East end ; it is surrounded by a reef, which extends nearly
half a mile eastward and a quarter of a mile westward and southward from
it. A lighthouse is erected upon its West end, painted white, and exhibit-

RHIO STRAIT -LOB.\N ISLANDS. 323

ing, from an elevation of 81 feet, a, fixed bright light, which is visible 6 miles.

Terkolei Island is situated near the middle of a dangerous shoal bank, com-
posed of hard sand and mud, 7^ miles l<mg, E.S.E. and W.N.W. nearly,
the eastern part of which extends to within half a mile of the reef surround-
ing Pifjingit. Half a mile South of the island a black buoy with ivhite ring
is moored on the edge of the shoal, in 2^ fathoms, with Pitjingit bearing
E. by S., and Terkolei North. The reef is here steep-to, and S.E. by E. ^ E.
1^ mile from the island is a beacon, on the southern edge of a 2-fa thorn
shoal ; the 3 fathoms edge of the bank is nearlj half a mile southward of
this beacon. Pitjingit bearing East clears the S.E. tail, and the apex of
Loban bearing N.W. by W. | W. will lead clear to the southward of Ter-
kolei and the western part of the bank.

ISABELLA SHOAL lies three-quarters of a mile southward of Loban ; it
is nearly three-quarters of a mile long East and West, 2 cables broad, and
has from I to 2| fathoms water over it. A tail, with 3^ to 4 J fathoms on it,
stretches from its eastern extreme nearly a mile in an E.S.E. direction.
The 1 -fathom patch is near the centre of the shoal. A white buoy with black
ring is moored in 3 fathoms on the western extreme of the shoal, with the
East point of Pulo Loban bearing N.N.E. ^ E., Terkolei light East, and
South point of Little Loban N.W. ; and a black buoy with white ring in 3
fathoms, ou the eastern extremity, 3 cables E. f S. from the West buoy.

The depths at a short distance from the South side of this danger are 6 to
10 fathoms, but its western edge is very steep, there being 14 fathoms close
to it. Terkolei lighthouse, bearing E. ^ N. clears the shoal to the south-
ward, and Sau lighthouse, in one with the West end of Little Loban, leads
well clear to the westward.

LOBAN ISLANDS, Ij ing about half a mile off the S.W. part of Bintang,
form a group of four or five small islands, separated by channels so narrow
that they appear as one island. They may be recognized by the gradual
rise the largest island takes from its North end, to a round hummock in the
centre, which with Little Loban (the islet off its West end) present to vessels
approaching them from the westward, the appearance of three distinct hills.
A reef, about a quarter of a mile broad, surrounds the group. A small de-
tached patih lies a third of a mile South of the S.W. point of Great Loban.
The depths close to the reef fronting the western side of the Loban group
art) 11 to 20 fathoms. A 2-fathom patch lies outside the shore i-eef on the
N.W. part of Loban, the western edge of which bears N.N.E. ^ E., three-
quarters of a mile from the small islet off the West end of Little Loban.

Dessa is a small islet, conspicuous from having only one tree upon it,
bearing N. ^ W. about If mile from the West end of Little Loban, and
S. by W. h W. about half a mile from Batu Point, the nearest point of Bin-
tang ; it is on the southern point of a small shoal three-quarters of a mile in
extent. Two patches of reef, together nearly a mile long E.S.E and

324 BANKA TO SINGAPORE

W.N.W., lie with their western extreme about a third of a mile southward
of Dessa, and between these and the 2-fathom patch off Loban is a channel
not Quite half a mile broad, with 3^ to 9 fathoms in it. A rocky patch lies off
the N.W. side of Dessa, the outer part being distant a third of a mile from
it. Little Loban bearing S.S.E. leads westward of all these shoals, as will
also West point, Bintang, if not brought westward of N. \ W. Close to
these dangers the soundings are deep, 12 to 23 fathoms.

BATU POINT is 2\ miles northward of Little Loban, the pitch of the point
being about half a mile N.E. of the reef lying off the N.W. side of Dessa.
At Batu Point the land recedes abruptly to the eastward.

Dua Island, about three-quarters of a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
fronts the bay between Batu and West points ; a round lump which rises in
its centre is lower than the adjacent land. There is a remarkable white rock
near its West side. The island is bordered by a reef, and a small detached
patch lies nearly a quarter of a mile south-westward of its South point, and
a rock awash about the same distance to the south-eastward. This last^
narrows the channel between the island and shore to \^ cable, but the water
in it is deep, 7 to 12 fathoms ; behind the island the depths are various, 4^
to 11 fathoms, and 3 cables northward of the reef fringing the North part of
Dua, and 2 cables from the Bintang shore, is a 3-fathom patch, leaving a
patch more than a quarter of a mile broad, with 1| fathom water in it.

WEST POINT, bearing N. by W. \ W. 2^ miles from Batu Point, is
bold-to on the South and West parts, but on the North part a reef begins to
extend from the shore, and trends away from the point in a northerly direc-
tion, passing outside by Senggera Islet. West Point is moderately elevated
land, presenting a round shelving appearance, and from it the coast line
trends to the north-eastward, forming the eastern side of the North entrance
of Rhio Strait.

The Senggera are a ledge of flat rocks, lying about a quarter of a mile off
shore, 1^ mile N. ^ E. from West Point. Detached rocks on the shore reef
wiil be seen nearly as far as West Point.

Malang Yarong is a small islet, covered with trees, lying half a mile North
from Senggera Eocks, on the edge of the reef fronting the shore, which here
extends more than a third of a mile off.

Pnlo Kera, or Skerrie, is a small island lying N.E. | N. 2 miles from Ma-
lang Yarong, and close off Kalumpong Point ; it is of an oblong form, about
80 feet high, and will be recognized by the coast near it receding to the
E.N.E., in the direction of the Subong Elver. The reef which fronts the
coast from West Point follows the tren dings of the coast, and passes a
quarter of a mile outside Kera, and then trends to the eastward, fronting the
southern coast of the large bight between Kera and Subong Point.

A shoal hank, with less than a fathom water over it in one place, and 1^ to
8 fathoms elsewhere, fronts the shore reef above mentioned ; the 3-fathom

EHIO STEAIT-SUBONG BAY AND POINT. 325

line which marks its edge takes from Malong Yarong Island a N.N.E.
direction for about a mile, where it trends a point more to the eastward and
passes about half a mile outside Pulo Kera ; from thence it trends away
with an irregulnr outline to Tanjong Subong, passing just outside the Pap
and a group of rocks E.N.E. from it. This bank between Malang Yarong
and Kera is steep-to under a depth of 8 fathoms, and must be carefully
avoided.

Netscher Shoal, the outer part of which lies half a niile outside the shoal
bank just described, is very dangerous, fur there is less than a fathom water
on its N.W. extreme, and less than 3 fathoms everywhere else. It is a
somewhat circular shaped shoal, about half a mile in extent, composed of
hard sand and coral, and from the outer edge Pulo Kera bears S. by W.,
distant l^- mile, and the extreme of Tanjong Subong N.E. by E. ^ E., 4^
miles. Close to the western side of this danger are 10 and 6 fathoms, and
the lead cannot be depended upon to give warning in time to avoid it.

SUBONG BAY, the deep bight between Pulo Kera and Subong Point, is
nearly filled up with reefs, and is best understood from the chart.

Crocodile Shoal is a small patch of hard sand with 3 fathoms water over
it, and is the outermost of the dangers off this part of Bintang. It lies N.E.
i N. 2^ miles from Netscher Shoal ; N.N.E. f E. of miles from Pulo Kera ;
and "W. ^ S. 21 miles from Subong Point. Close to the West and N.W.
sides of this shoal are 6 to 8 fathoms, and 4 J fathoms a quarter of a mile
from it on the N.E. side. Kera Island bearing S.S.W., leads nearly half a
mile westward of the Crocodile ; and Pulo Nongsa bearing West, or the islet
off Subong E. IS., leads half a mile to the northward. Barbukit Hill,
N. by W. I W., will also lead to the westward.

Sau Lighthouse bearing S.S.W. ^ W., clears the shoal bank N.N.E. of
Malang Yarong, as also the Netscher and Crocodile Shoals ; it is a good
guide for strangers when working near this rather dangerous coast.

SUBONG POINT is the N.W. extreme of Bintang and the north-eastern
limit of Pthio Strait. It bears from Kera Island N.E. h E. 5J miles, the
coast between forming a deep bight, at the head of which is the entrance of
the Subong Eiver. A small islet lies off the pitch of the point, and S.W.
by W. a third of a mile from the islet is a sunken rock. Some islets also
lie close to the coast S.S.E. from the point.

Tides. — The flood tidal wave in the China Sea comes from the northward,
and, being divided by the island of Bintang, sweeps round its shores, and
flows into Ehio Strait at both ends, the stream from Singapore Strait meet-
ing that from the southward in the space between Tiemara Island and Ehio,
The main body of the southern stream takes a general westerly direction
for Dumpo Strait, much of it diverging to the southward through the chan-
nels dividing the several groups of islands lying between Missana and
Dunipo, and a portion turning off to the N.W., in the direction of Garras ;

326 BANK.l TO SINGAPORE.

this last is joined by the streams flowing through the Siolon and adjacent
channels, which gradually trend away to the north-westward after they enter
the strait.

The monsoons and currents of the China Sea very much affect the regu-
larity of the tides, which are strong, and at the springs rush with great
velocity through the channels among the islands, forming numerous eddies,
and stirring up the mud. In the narrow part of the strait, about West
point, this is particularly the case, the tide running from 3 to 4 knots, and
sometimes even 4J and 5 knots.

DIRECTIONS through Rhio Strait to Singapore. — Directions to proceed
from Banka Strait outside Linga Island are given at page 54. A vessel
intending to proceed through Rhio Strait, and having brought Tanjong
Eung (the eastern extreme of Linga Island) to bear S.S.W. ^ W., and
Great Domino West, should steer about N.W. | N., which, if care be taken
to guard against the effects of the tide, will take her to the fairway at the
entrance of Rhio Strait, with Pulo Gin — which will be first seen on the
starboard hand — bearing about N.E. § E., and Rodong Peak about S.S.W.
^ W. In this track, if the course is preserved, the vessel will pass 7 or 8
miles outside Crocodile Rock, and 5 or 6 outside the Fly and Pollux Shoals.

Rondo, the small round island on the West side of the strait, and the
peak of Rodong (page 314), the only hill of this feature in the vicinity, with
South-west Hill on Siolon (page 319), Talang Island, and the extreme land
to the eastward (Pulo Gin, with a flat peak near its centre) will, at a distance
of 14 miles, readily show the approach to the narrow part of the strait,
while nearer the Topies, Alligator, and other islands, cannot fail to point out
the main channel.

Having brought the South end of Pulo Gin abeam, a N.W. ^ W. course
will lead to the entrance of the narrow part ot the strait, and Table Hill,
which is flat on the summit, and stands on the southern part of Galang
Island, should be seen a little on the port bow. In entering, borrow towards
the islets near Galang, to preserve the deepest water and to avoid the Topies,
which latter have shoals extending 1 or 2 miles to the S.S.E., and 1 mile
from their western sides.

Having arrived abreast of Little Garras, distant about a mile, a N.W. ^ N.
course will lead through the fairway of the channel till the Lobau Islands
are abeam, a distance of 16 miles. With Little Loban bearing East, distant
a mile, a N. by W. course for 7 miles will take the vessel past West Point
Bmtang, which will bear about iS.E. ; a N. by E. or N. by E. i E. course
will then lead midway between the Pan Reef and the dangers off the N.W.
coast of Bintang into Singapore Strait.

The mark for passing eastward of the Pan Reef is to bring Barbukit Hill
N. i W. or North, but not to the eastward of North, and to steer that course
until Johore Hill bears N.N.W. | W., which will lead north-eastward of both

EHIO STRAIT— DIRECTIONS. 327

Pan Reefs. A vessel will be clear of the Little Pan when Pdlo Nongsa opens
of Nongsa Point, and when the passage between the islands and the point
comes open, she may steer N.W. and W.N.W. as necessary for Singapore
Road. If the tide is setting to the westward, a sailing ship should be careful,
especially in light cr contrary winds, to get well over on the northern side of
Singapore Strait, otherwise she may be carried by the strong current to the
westward of St. Johns, and unable either to fetch into Singapore Road, or,
from the great depth of water, to anchor.

The soundings do not give sufficient warning to keep a vessel clear of the
Crocodile Rock, but in the event of meeting with baffling or contrary winds
or tides, and getting over towards this danger., Domino Hill (the island lying
between the Great Domino and Tanjong Eung) should not be brought to the
southward of S. ^ W., until the islet off the N.W. end of Great Domino
bears S.W. I W. The Fly Bank and the Pollux Rock must not be ap-
proached to a less depth than 13 or 12 fathoms.

At night, or in thick weather, a vessel, after having brought Tanjong
Eung to bear S.S.W. J W., and Domino Hill East, should make a N.N.W.
^ W. course for about 23 miles, and then N.W. ^ W. about 28 miles, which
courses, if proper allowance has been made for the tide, will keep her 10 or
11 miles eastward of the Fly and Pollux Shoals, and place her in the fairway
at the entrance of Rhio Strait, with Pulo Gin on the starboard beam.

Formerly difficulty wa& often experienced by strangers in making out the
entrance to Rhio Strait, from the imperfect manner in which the islands
between Missana and Dumpo were laid down on the charts; since, however,
these have been correctly delineated, seamen making the strait for the first
time will readily recognise any of the islands. The high conical peak of
Rodong, the most couspicuous object in approaching the strait, should be
made out as soon as possible.

Now that the channel between the two Pan Reefs is known to be clear
(the survey of the Rifleman having proved that the reputed Riondo Shoal
does not exist), no difficulty will be experienced in passing between them, as
they are well marked by the beacon and buoy on the Great Pan, and a buoy
on the Little Pan ; it is only necessary to pass at a reasonable distance from
these marks.

To work through Rhio Strait from the Southward. — It seldom happens
that a vessel will have to work along near the islands from Missana to
Dumpo. It is generally found advantageous to stand to the northward
in case of meeting with a north-westerly wind, but it may occasionally
happen that a vessel will derive advantage by standing towards them ;
iu which case, when nearing the North side of Missana, in order to
avoid the dangers which extend about three-quarters of a mile from that
shore, the apex of Binan must not be brought northward of W. by N. To
avoid the Rifleman Shoal, which lies about 1 J mile eastward of the N.E.

328 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE.

point of Binan, the eastern extreme of Missaiia must not be brought East of
S.E. ^ E., or the northern extreme of Kataug Linga North of W. by N. ^ N,
This last also clears the 3^-fathom patch off the North part of Binan. The
East side of Katang Linga may be approached to the distance of Half a mile,
and the northern part of the island to within a quarter of a mile. The
Selangs Islands and Oedik may be approached to within a moderate distance,
but care must be taken not to stand within a line drawn from the North
extreme of Katang Linga to the North Selanga, or within another drawn
from the last-named island to Oedik, for reasons stated in the description of
those localities.

In standing to the westward towards the South end of Galang Island, a
vessel may approach the Great Bank (page 315) to 9 or 8 fathoms ; but be-
tween the Great Bank and East Bank should tack at the first cast under 10
fathoms, as a 3-fathom bank projects far out from tlie island between
Selatan and Dempo, and the soundings decrease suddenly towards it. To
avoid this bank and also East Bank, the S.E. extreme of Selatan Island
should not be brought South of W. by S., until Dempoe Point, the eastern
extreme of the group, is West of N.W. by AV. Eondo Island bearing
S.W. ^ S. also leads outside of East Bank and all other dangers between
that island and Derapo Point, and is a safe turning mark.

Between Dempo Point and Little Garras a vessel may stand into 8 or 7
fathoms ; but, to avoid Ditloffs Eeef, the eastern point of Galang (which
projects into the bay) must not be brought South of W. ^ S. until Little
Garras lighthouse bears westward of N.W. Little Garras should not be
approached nearer than a quarter of a mile, nor Great Garras than half a
mile, to avoid their reefs. The soundings near the former are deep, 11 to
22 fathoms, but 8 or 9 fathoms will be found half a mile from the reef of
Great Garras.

Between Great Garras and East Moeboet Island a vessel may stand into
8 or 7 fathoms, but a good tacking mark appeal's to be to keep Little Garras
well open of Great Garras ; and, if this be attended to, it will keep the vessel
clear to the eastward of the banks which extend about H mile southward
from Moeboet.

After passing Moeboet, its eastern extreme must not be brought eastward
of S. by E., until the southern extreme of Sembolang Point bears W. by
S. ^ S., when the vessel will be clear of the bank which extends N.W. of
Moeboet ; from thence to Sembolang Point she may stand into 8 or 7 fa-
thoms. E. by N. 2 N. IJ mile from Sembolang Point is a patch of coral,
with 5^ fathoms water over it, and 6 to 8 fathoms near it; but half a mile
nearer the point there is a run of deeper water, 11 or 12 fathoms, and close
to the reef fronting Sembolang Point are 7 and 9 fathoms.

Sembolang Point is fronted by a reef, but the pitch of the point may be
passed at a quarter of a mile. The bay between that point and the Tiemara

EHIO STEAIT— DIEECTIONS. 329

Bank is free from danger, and a vessel may stand into it as convenient, but
be careful not to bring the S.W. extreme of Tiemara Island West of
W. i N., nor the N.E. extreme of Little Tiemara North of N.W., in order
to avoid the Tiemara Bank, over which there is as little as 1^ fathom water.

Little Tiemara should not be approached nearer than half a mile, on
account of dangers which extend nearly that distance from it, and close to
which are 12 to 21 fathoms, so that the lead cannot be relied upon to give
warning in sujEcient time. After passing this island, its N.E. extreme kept
to the southward of S.S.E. J E., will serve as a good tacking mark as far as
the buoy on the Innang Shoal, leading outside the Johannes Bank, and
clear of all danger.

To avoid the dangerous reef which extends nearly half a mile from Innang
Island, the N.E. point of Little Innang must be opened of the eastern ex-
treme of Sau Island (with the lighthouse upon it) after passing the Innanw
Shoal buoy ; and, if this be attended to, a vessel will keep outside all dani^er
as far as the eastern extreme of Sau, which latter should not be approached
nearer than half a mile on account of the small reef oif it.

After passing Little Innang, in standing to the westward, do not shut in
the eastern extreme of Sau Island behind Little Innang; this will lead
safely along that side of the channel as far as the buoy on the Malang Orang
Shoal, in about 10 to 15 fathoms water. If this buoy should have disappeared,
the eastern extreme of Little Innang, if not brought East of S. by E., will
lead clear of that danger.

Sau Point, if not brought South of S.W. i W., will lead clear of the
south-eastern edge of the Pan Shoal; and when passing to the eastward of
that danger, care must be observed not to bring Barbukit Hill to the east-
ward of North, until Johore Hill bears N.N.W. ^ W. ; and then not to
brirtg the last-named hill to the northward of N.N.W. J W. until Pulo
Nongsa is open of Nongsa Point.

In working between the Pan Eeefs, after having passed the buoy on the
Malang Orang, care must still be taken not to bring the eastern extreme of
Little Innang East of S. by E., or to stand inside a line drawn from Malang
Orang buoy to the buoy of the Little Pan, in order to avoid the dangerous
shore reef which extends from Battam nearly three-quarters of a mile.

In standing to the eastward towards Talang Island, at the southern entrance
ot Ehio Strait, be careful to give the south-eastern shore of that island a
berth of 2 miles, and to keep South-west Hill, on Siolon Island, well open to
the westward of Talang, to avoid the Hendrik Jan Eock, which is awash at
low water. The S.W. point of Siolon and Alligator Island may be approached
to half a mile. When nearing the Topies, South-west Hill kept well open
of the southern point of Alligator Island, will lead southward of all danger
on that side of the group; and, in order to keep to the westward of Eotter-

I. A. 2 V

330 BANKA TO SINGAPOEE.

dam Eeef, the south-western extreme of Pankel must not be brought to the
westward of N.W. i W.

To clear the shoal water, 4 to 5 fathoms, which extends nearly 2^ miles
southward of the Topics, Siolon Hill must be kept open of South-west Hill,
which will lead South of it, and the apex of Loban open of the West ex-
treme of Pankel clears it to the westward, as also the Dutch Shoal and shoal
bank of soundings south-eastward of Pankel.

It is not advisable to stand over between the Topies and Pankel, on ac-
count of the Rotterdam Eeef; the reef which lies N. by W. ^ W. nearly
half a mile from the northern island of the Topies Group ; and the Dutch
Shoal of 3 fathoms lying S.E. ^ E. nearly 1 J mile from Pulo Pankel.

The Dutch Shoal, S.E. of Pankel, will be avoided by keeping the S.W.
extreme of Pankel to the northward of N.W. I N. ; and the northern Topie
Island, if not brought South of E. by S. J S., will lead to the southward.

The S.W. end of Pankel should not be approached nearer than half a mile
on account of the shore reef, close to which are 1 3 fathoms water ; the West
side may be neared to 7 or 8 fathoms, but the northern end should not be
approached within a mile on account of the shoal water extending N.N.W.
from it ; this shoal water may be avoided by keeping Little Garras light-
house open of the S.W. extreme of Pankel.

Between Pankel and the Isabella Bank, a vessel may stand well over in
depths of 8 or 9 fathoms ; but not to bring the North end of Pankel to the
southward of S.S.E. J E., or Turkolei lighthouse to the westward of N. by W.,
to avoid the Sore Eeefs. Terkolei lighthouse bearing E, ^ N. clears the
Isabella Shoal to the southward ; and Sau lighthouse in line with the West
end of Little Loban leads well clear to the westward.

Little Loban should not be approached nearer than half a mile ; and,
after passing it, the western extreme should not be brought South of S. by
E. f E., until Batu Point bears East, which will avoid the dangers near
Dessa Island. Batu Point is bold close-to ; and both it and Dua Island may
be approached to a quarter of a mile, but not nearer the latter, on account of
the reef which fronts it, and near to which are 8 and 10 fathoms. West
Point of Bintang is bold, and may be approached to a quarter of a mile, but
a reef begins at this point which, extending outside Malang Orang and Kera
Islands, fronts the whole of the N.W. coast of Bintang. Malang Yarong
may be approached to a quarter of a mile, but Kera Island not nearer than
three-quarters of a mile. Very close to the edge of the bank which fronts
this part of the coast are 7 and 8 fathoms.

After passing Malang Yarong great care must be taken when standing in
for the Bintang shore to avoid the dangerous bank which curves away from
that island and extends half a mile outside Pulo Kera, and very close to
which are 12 or 13 fathoms water; Sau lighthouse bearing S.S.W. 5 W.
will lead well clear of this bank, as also of the Netscher and Crocodile Shoals,

EHIO STEAIT— DIEECTIOXS. 331

If Sau li^lithonse cannot be made out after Pulo Kera hearts southward of
East, Malang Jarnng Island — which will be seen well clear of the extreme
of the land as Netscher Shoal is n eared — must not be brought "West of
S. by W. f W. until the screw pile beacon on the North end of the Pan
Eeef bears W. 4^ N. ; a vessel will then be to the northward of Netscher
Shoal, and Pulo Kera may be brought S.S.W. but nothing to the westward,
until Subong Point bears S.E. by E., by which means a vessel will avoid all
the dangers off the N.W. coast of Bintang, including the Crocodile Shoal.

Through Rhio Strait from Singapore. — The ebb tide from Singapore meets
the flood setting through Ehio Strait in the vicinity of the Pan Eeefs ; ves-
sels, therefore, weighing at high water from Singapore will carry a fair tide
through both straits.

The flagstaff on Fort Canning, Singapore, bearing West, leads 2 miles
southward of the Johore Shoals ; and when Johore Hill bears North, a ves-
sel will be eastward of the shoals. Entering Ehio Strait, pass between the
Little Pan buoy and the screw pile beacon on Great Pan ; or, pass eastward
of the Pan Eeefs, and, in doing so, be careful not to bring Johore Hill to
the northward of N.N.W. J W. until Barbukit Hill bears North.

After passing the Pan Eeefs, a course from S. h W. to S. by "W". i W. will
lead down the fairway of the strait until the vessel has arrived nearly abreast
of the West point of Bintang, when S. by E. is the mid-channel course as
far as the Loban Island. From thence a course about S.E. ^ S., making
allowance for tide, will lead midway between Pankel and Moeboet, also be-
tween the Garras Islands and the Topies, and out of the strait.

To work through Rhio Strait from the Northward. — In working between the
Pan Eeefs, the screw pile beacon on the North and the buoy at the South
end of the Great Pan will point out the situation of that danger ; but when
standing towards the Battam shore, in order to avoid the dangerous reef
extending three-quarters of a mile from the land, care must be taken not to
stand inside a line drawn from Malang Orang buoy to the buoy of the Little
Pan, nor to bring the eastern extreme of Little Innang East of S. by E. If
proceeding by the eastern channel, in rounding the Pan Eeefs, take care not
to shut Pulo Nongsa behind Nongsa Point, until Johore Hill bears N.N.W.
^ W., and then not to bring Johore Hill to the northward of that bearing
until Barbukit Hill bears N. I W. or North. The last-named hill must not
be brought at all to the eastward of North when on the East side of Great
Pan Eeefs.

Standing towards the N.W. coast of Bintang, to avoid the Crocodile Shoal,
Barbukit Hill should not be brought West of N. by W. \ W., or in case
Barbukit cannot be seen, Kera Island must not be brotight West of S.S.W. ;
or a vessel should tack in 10 or 9 fathoms. When the screw pile beacon on
the Great Pan bears North of West, a vessel will be nearing Netscher Shoal,
and must avoid bringing the small islet of Malang Yarong (which will be

332 BANKA TO SINGAPORE.

seen well clear of the extreme of the land) West of S. by W. f W., or 8au
lighthouse West of S.S.W. ^ W. ; this last precaution will also clear the
dangerous bank between Kera Island and Malang Yarong. The soundings
decrease so suddenly about this part of the coast that they must not be relied
on to give warning in time to avoid the dangers.

Kera Island must not be approached within three-quarters of a mile, but
Malang Yarong may be to a quarter of a mile. A reef rounds away from
Malang Yarong to West Point, having depths of 8 or 7 fathoms close-to, and
it must be given a berth from three-quarters to half a mile until up with
West point, which is rather bold. Dua Island must not be neared within a
quarter of a mile, on account of the reef which fronts it ; and all danger be-
tween Dua and Little Loban will be avoided by keeping the West end of the
latter island East of S. by E. f E., or by not bringing West Point West of
N. i W.

Standing to the westward, when near the South side of Great Pan Reef,
Sau Point should not be brought South of S.W. | W., which will clear the
Great Pan, and also the Malang Orang Reef, in case the buoys upon these
dangers should have disappeared. From Malang Orang beacon to Sau
Island, keep the East point of Sau open of Little Innang, to avoid the dan-
gers which lie north-westward of Sau.

The eastern point of Sau is bold on its northern side, but on its southern
side is a small reef, distant from it a quarter of a mile, which should be
given a wide berth ; after passing it, be careful to keep the eastern extreme
of Little Innang open of the eastern extreme of Sau, to clear the long spit
■which projects from the latter island, and also to avoid the reef extending
from Innang, in case the beacon which marks it should be gone. Close to
the reef are 8 or 7 fathoms, and 14 or 15 fathoms about half a mile off.

The same objects in line will serve to guide the vessel past the Innang
Shoal buoy, towards which, if desirable, she may stand a little closer, after
which, keep the East extreme of Little Tiemara South of S.S.E. | E., to>
avoid the Johannes Shoal. Little Tiemara is fronted by a reef, and should
be given a berth of at least half a mile. After passing this island, Tiemara
Bank will be avoided by not bringing the N.E. extreme of that island to the
North of N.W., until the S.W. extreme of Tiemara is North of W. by N.,
■when she may stand into the bay towards Sembolang Point, as convenient,
tacking in 8 or 7 fathoms,

Seinbolang Point may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 10 or 9
fathoms. After passing it, do not bring its South extreme to the West of
W. by S. until the eastern extreme of East Moeboet bears S.S.E., to avoid a
bank which extends N.N.W. of that island. Between East Moeboet and
Great Garras a vessel may stand into 8 or 7 fathoms, but a good mark for
tacking is to keep Little Garras well open of the East extreme of Great

EHIO STRAIT -DIEECTIONS. 333

Garras, and this will also keep the vessel clear of the bank, which lies about
1 J mile to the southward of Moeboet.

Little Garras Island may be approached to a quarter of a mile, but Great
Garras not nearer than a mile. After passing Little Garras, the lighthouse
must not be brought to the westward of N.W. until the East point of Galang
(which projects into the middle of the bay to the southward) bears W. 4 S.,
in order to clear DitloflFs Eeef. Tjassens Shoal, which fills up a great por-
tion of this bay, may then be approached to 9 or 8 fathoms.

Come no nearer than half a mile to Dempoe Point ; and, after passing it,
do not bring it North of N.W. by W. until the S.E. extreme of Selatan ia
"West of W. by S., which will keep the vessel clear of East Bank and the
shoal bank filling up Selatan Bay. Rondo or Dumpo Island bearing
S.W. ^ S. also leads outside of East Bank and all other dangers between
that island and Dempoe Point, and is a safe tacking mark.

Between Rondo Island and Katang Linga a vessel may stand well over
towards Oedik and Selanga Islands, but must avoid standing within a line
drawn from the northward of the last-named islands to the N.W. extreme
of Katang Linga. The East side of Katang Linga should not be approached
nearer than half a mile, and in order to avoid the Rifleman Shoal (which,
lies about H mile eastward of the N.E. point of Binan), the northern extreme
of Katang Linga must not be brought North of W. by N. ^ N. (this also
clears the 3i-fathom patch off the North part of Binan), nor the eastern
extreme of Missana East of S.E. ^ E.

Having passed the Rifleman Shoal, if the apex of Binan is not brought to
the northward of W. by N., the dangers which extend about three-quarters
of a mile from the North side of the Missana will be avoided.

Standing to the eastward. Little Loban should not be approached nearer
than half a mile ; and, after passing it, Sau lighthouse in line with its West
extreme will clear the West side of Isabella Bank. The southern part of
the bank will be avoided by not bringing Terkolei lighthouse East of E. ^ N.
Between the Isabella Shoal and Pankel, a vessel may stand well over into
depths of 8 or 9 fathoms ; but, in order to avoid the Sore Reefs, do not
bring Terkolei lighthouse to the westward of N. by W., or the North end of
Pankel to the southward of S.S.E. i E. Little Garras lighthouse open of
the S.W. extreme of Pankel will lead clear of the shoal water extending
N.N.W. from the North part of that island ; its West side may be approached
to 8 or 7 fathoms ; shoal water extends from the S.W. extreme, close to which
are 13 fathoms water ; it should not be closed nearer than half a mile. The
apex of Loban open of the West extreme of Pankel, will lead clear of the
Dutch Shoal, and of the shoal bank of soundings south-eastward of Pankel ;
this mark will also lead to the westward of the shoal water (4 to 5 fathoms),
which extends nearly 2J miles southward of the Topies, and which will bo
cleared to the southward by keeping Siolon Hill open of S.W. Hill. Tho

334 VAEELLA AND DUEIAN STEAITS, ETC.

shoal bank, just mentioned, is not dangerous to small vessels which may stand
nearer to the Topies ; but in order to avoid Rotterdam Reef, the S.W. ex-
treme of Pankel must be kept North of N.W. ^ W.

To the southward of the Topies, Alligator Island may be approached to
half a mile, and a vessel may stand on well into the channel between Siolon
and Talang, but must not bring S.W. Hill to the West of W. f N., on
account of Thomas Shoal. There are many shoal patches between Talang
and Pulo Gin, but they all (except the Hendnk Jan Rock, awash at low-
water), lie out of the track of ships. The S.E. side of Talang should be
given a berth of at least 2 miles in passing, keeping South-west Hill well
open of Talang, until Pulo Terobi bears E. by N.

3.— VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

In the height of the N.E. monsoon, in December and January, when
strong northerly winds prevail, it blows much more freely in the open por-
tion of the China Sea, to the eastward of Linga and Bintang, than it does
in the straits they form with the coast of Sumatra. Mr. Stanton, therefore,
recommends the Varella and Durian Straits for a sailing ship going north-
wards at this season, as by avoiding the heavy sea, and southerly current,
•which sometimes runs at the rate of 3 knots an hour, they will save much
time, and have smooth water, good anchorage, and will also be greatly
assisted by the squalls from the Sumatra coast.

The straits have not been completely surveyed. Lieutenant Melvill Van
Carnbee drew up a chart in 1843, to which Mr. Stanton, R.N., made con-
siderable additions in 1860 — 1, and further corrections have since been made,
but still the chart and directions must not be considered as perfect, and the
mariner is therefore cautioned not to place too much reliance on them.

The COAST of SUMATRA from Batakarang Point (the N.W. limit of the
Strait of Banka, described on page 198), trends about N.N.W. towards Ja-
boeng Point, sometimes known as Cape Bon, in about lat. 0° 58' S. The
entire coast, which is very low, covered with wood, and entirely unknown, is
fronted by a mud-bank, that may be approached to 6 or 5 fathoms water,
except off Jaboeng Point, close to which there are in some places 9 fathoms,
but all vessels should keep 3 miles from it. A bank of 4 fathoms was found
by H.M. surveying vessel Saracen, in 1861, with Jaboeng Point bearing
N.W. by W., distant 9 miles ; a depth of 6 fathoms also nearer the shore.
This is probably a projecting horn or spit extending from the mud flat, and
as shoal er soundings may be found, vessels bound to Varella Strait should
keep 5 miles off shore until Jaboeng Point bears West.

TAN JONG JABOENG, or Cape Bon, in lat. 0° 58' S., long. 104'' 22' E.,

VARELLA, OR BRAHALLA. 335

is the south-eastern limit of the Inner Route. Like most other parts of the
East coast of Sumatra, it is low land, and has a shoal-water bank extending
more than a mile from it.

VARELLA, or Brahalla, is a small island, 450 ft. high, which gives its
name to the strait, and has a hill on its western part, which may be seen 20
miles off. It lies in the middle of Varella Strait, and bears from Tanjong
Jaboeng, N. by E. J E., nearly 9^ miles, and from Pulo Taya, W. by S. 30
miles.

There are some islets and rocks near Varella, the largest of which, Anak
Varella, lies about a mile north-eastward of it ; and a mile North from it lies
a rock, with 17 fathoms close to it.

There is anchorage on the S.W. side of Varella, and water may be pro-
cured ; but this only ought to be done in case of necessity, as the lurking
piratical proas have been known to assault and massacre the crews of boats
sent on shore to procure water at this island. The ship Hercules was attacked
by seventeen large proas near this place, and narrowly escaped being taken
by them.*

Kunst Shoal. — Capt. G. Kunst, of the Dutch barque Louisa Kroon Prinses
of Sweden, reports having seen a shoal, with but 12 ft. water over it, from
which Varella Island bore W.N.W., distant 3 miles.

Middle Rocks lie 4|- miles N.E. by N. from Varella, or nearly midway
between the latter and the islets which front the South end of Sinkep
Island. Rocks extend halfway across from Varella to the Middle Rocks.

Pollux Rock, with only 4 ft. water over it, lies nearly 2 miles N.E. of
the Middle Rocks, and from it the nearest of the islets southward of
Sinkep bears N. by W. 3^ miles, and Anak Varella Islet S.W. J S., nearly
5^ miles.

The channel southward of Varella Island is wider and more free from
danger than the channel northward of it, and is consequently much more
frequented. The shoal bank fronting Tanjong Jaboeng projects about 8 or
9 miles north-westward from it, forming a sort of elbow, to avoid which it
will be necessary to keep Tanjong Jaboeng to the South of S.E. ^ S., until
Varella Island is East of E.N.E. The channel to the northward, between

* Although piracy has very much decreased in these seas since Horsburgh's time, and,
as a general rule, but little danger need now be apprehended from piratical fleets, yet
Llanun pirate proas have been known to pass through Banka Strait within the last few
years. It is still, in fact, very necessary indeed for merchant vessels which have occasion
to fill up water in out of the way places to be on their guard against surprise. Natives, not
ordinarily pirates, frequently become such if a good opportunity present itself, and mer-
chant vessels offer such rich prizes, that the natives of almost any part of the Eastern Seas
would very likely be tempted to attack them, if they saw a favourable opportunity for
doing so successfully, when many of the crew were away from the ship watering,— J. \V.
lUed, Master R.X., 1864.

336 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

Varella and the small islands contiguous to the S.E. end of Sinkep is encum-
bered with the dangers just mentioned.

SINKEP, the easternmost of the three islands forming the North side of
Varella Strait, is about 17 or 18 miles in extent, and of very irregular shape,
projecting to a point on its East side, another on its S.E. side, and a third oa
its South side. Between these points are rather large bays, the most southern
one, Baru Bay, being 3 miles deep. On the eastern side of the island is a
range of hills, with a peak 1,440 ft. high near the centre of the range.
There is a hill over Boekoe, or Buku Point, and 4 miles to the northward of
it, on the West coast of the island, is a sharp peak of moderate elevation.
From Boekoe Point the coast line takes a north-westerly direction for 14
miles to Sahoyoro Strait, which separates Sinkep from the island next west-
ward of it. Rocks above and below water front the whole S.W. coast of
Sinkep, to the distance of a mile.

Rawa is the outer of two islands westward of Sinkep, their S.W. coast
line following the same N.W. direction as that of Sinkep, the whole distance
from Boekoe Point to the N.W. extreme of Rawa being 23 miles. The islands
are separated by a channel so narrow that they appear as one. Shoal water
extends 2 miles from the S.E. point of the eastern island.

Sinkep Laut is the outermost of four or five small islets lying about 2|-
miles off the S.E. point of Sinkep.

Seera, or Reef Island, is small, 160 ft. high, and lies E. f N. 6| miles from
Boekoe Point, and N.W. J N. 14 miles from Tarella Island. It is a flat,
low island, sometimes mistaken for Varella when coming from the northward.
A reef surrounds the island, and extends more than a mile from its East end,
and more than 2 miles from its N.W. end. At 4 miles W. by N. | N. from
Seera is a patch, having 4 fathoms least water over it. Anah Seera are rocky
islets, lying about 2f miles N. by E. from Seera, with a safe channel between
them and the latter island, and also (with the exception of the 4J-fathom
patch 2 miles eastward of them) between them and the coast of Sinkep.
A bank with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it extends from them about 2 miles
in a north-westerly direction.

Speke Rock, on which a ship of this name struck, lies W. by N. \ N., 9
miles from Seera Island, and S.E. 5^ miles from the southern Alang-Tiga
Island. It is of small size, and a portion of it uncovers at two-thirds ebb,
showing as a small black rock about the size of a boat. Close-to are 10
fathoms water. Boekoe Point kept open to the southward of Seera Island,
E. i S., leads to the southward, and the southern Alang-Tiga Island bearing
N.W. by N. leads to the westward.

Atkin Rock, on which the brigantine Bob Tail Nag, Capt. Atkin, struck in
May, 1863, is a pinnacle which uncovers at two-thirds ebb. The marks for
the rock are, the West extreme of the North Alang-Tiga Island, just shut iu

JAMRI OR JAMBIE RIVER. 337

by the East extreme of the Middle Island, and the South extreme of the
Southern Island, bearing N.W. by W. | W., distant three-quarters of a mile.

Alang-Tiga Islands, bearing N.W. ^ W. 29 miles from Varella, are a
group of five small islets, and some rocks above water. The three principal
islands are high, and may be seen 24 or 25 miles, and the others 13 or 14
miles from the vessel's deck.

Silensing, or Green Island, is an islet 119 ft. high, lying 2f miles north-
westward of Rawa Island, being separated from it by a safe channel, with
depths of 10 to 19 fathoms. Wright Island, or Boenta, is a small islet lying
1^ mile northward of Silenseng. Some rocks appear to extend about a
quarter of a mile from it.

JAMBI or JAMBIE RIVER.— From Tanjong Jaboeng (page 334), the
coast of Sumatra trends in a westerly direction to Jambie Point, from whence
it falls back to the south-westward, to the principal entrance of the Jambi
Eiver, also named the River Nioer, or Kwala-nur. There are, however, be-
tween this entrance and Tanjong Jaboeng, several other entrances, off the
mouths of the two easternmost of which lies an island named Berba. The
river is barred, and has a depth oi \\ fathom over the bar, and 4 to 8
fathoms inside. It is one of the principal rivers on this side of Sumatra, and
a Dutch expedition under Lieut. Schouw Sautvoort was started in 1876 to
explore in its neighbourhood. There are several towns and villages on the
banks of the river, the principal of which is Simpang, about 20 miles, and
Jamlie, about 50 miles from the entrance. This part of Sumatra is undei the
Dutch, who have a station and fort at Moeara Kompeh, a town 5 miles above
Simpang. For 30 miles inland the country is a wooded marsh.

Coal. — A fine seam of coal was (in 1860) discovered near the Sultan's
house at Jambie. It is said to be 12 ft. thick, close to the river, and at some
distance below the surface, quite equal to English Newcastle coal.

BASSO, or Bakauw Point, in lat. 0° 20' S., long. 103° 47f E.,istheS.E.
extreme of Basso Island, which projects in the form of a peninsula from the
main coast of Sumatra in an E.N.E. direction about 13 or 14 miles, its
breadth being about 5 or 6 miles. It bears N.W., and is distant about 52 J
miles from Tanjong Jaboeng, the coast line between falling back into a large
bight, 33 or 34 miles deep, the main entrance to the Jambie River, just de-
scribed, being situated at its head. The eastern face of Basso Island should
not be approached nearer than about 2 miles, as a shoal, steep-to, projects
nearly a mile from it.

AMPHITRITE BAY and INDRAGIRIE RIVER.— Amphitrite Bay is a
large bight about 16 miles deep, formed between the N.E. extreme of Basso
Island and Baroe, or Dato Point, 15 miles to the northward. The bay is
nearly filled by a shoal, which extends several miles from either shore. It
projects in a N. by W. direction (Horsburg says N- by E.) for 5 or 6 miles
I. A. 2%

338 VARELLA AND DUEIAN STEATTS, ETC.

from the South point of entrance, but it curves away more gradually from the
North point, and between these projections is the deep-water portion of the
bay, about 3 or 4 miles broad.

The large River Indragirie discharges itself through several channels
into Amphitrite Bay, and also into the bay between Tanjong Jaboeng and
Basso Island.

Caution. — The outer edge of the shoal extending from the points of en-
trance to Amphitrite Bay, especially from the southern, is steep-to, having
1 or 1 1 fathoms within half a mile of it in some places, then quickly 5 or 4
fathoms, to 1^ or 1 fathom upon it, which requires great attention to the lead
when approaching this part of the coast in the night.

All this part of the coast of Sumatra is flat low land, thickly wooded with
trees about 120 ft. high.

From the low headland of Dato Point, the coast runs N. by W. and
N.N.W. toward the Strait of Durian, and is fronted by a shoal bank from
2 to 6 miles off shore, which may be approached by the lead, as from 10
fathoms upon its edge the soundings gradually decrease to 6, 5, 4, and 3
fathoms.

CHANNELS between SINKEP and LINGA ISLANDS.— PowoeJo Island,
5 or 6 miles long. East and West, 2 miles broad, and having a hill 955 ft,
high near its centre, lies between Sinkep and Linga, dividing the passage
between those islands into two channels, named Lima and Ponoebo Straits.

Lima Strait, between Ponoebo and Linga, is narrow, much encumbered
with islets and dangers, and does not, upon the chart, appear to be a very
convenient channel for navigators unacquainted with it. Capt. McKenzie,
however, says that it is safe and quicky passed through with the tide ; and
that on its western side, just beyond the narrows, there is a small bay on the
Linga shore, with good anchorage, wood, and water.

Ponoebo Strait, between Sinkep and Ponoebo Islands, is, like Lima Strait,
very narrow and encumbered with islets and dangers. It is said that a vessel
of moderate draught may pass through it with safety.

PXJLO SETJAWA lies close to the N.W. extreme of Linga, from which it
is separated by a channel about half a mile broad. Upon the chart it is
shown as a long narrow island, 14 or 15 miles long, and 3 miles broad, with
hillocks on it from 200 to 300 ft. high ; but this island, together with many
others near it, are very imperfectly known, not having been even roughly
surveyed.

Tiampa Island, separated from the western side of Setjawa by a channel
about 1^ mile wide, is about 5 miles long N.W. and S.E., and about li mile
broad. Boeova Island lies nearly 3 miles westward of the N.W. point of
Tiampa, and in the channel separating them is a group of islets and rocks.
Boeova is only 2 miles in extent, but it is a remarkable island, rising to a
peak 888 ft. high.

TEMIANff, EODONG, AND DUMPO STEAITS. 339

Bian is the easternmost, and Lohom the westernmost of a chain of islets
fronting the South and S.W. sides of Boeova. The Leda Rock is the outer-
most of a ridge of rocks which extend about 1^ mile in a N.W. by W. direc-
tion from Loham.

TEMIANG, RODONG, and DUMPO STRAITS.— To the northward of
Boeva Island, the eastern side of the Inner Route is bounded by numerous
islands, with deep channels between them. In order to avoid the difficulty
and delay sometimes experienced in getting from the northern part of Durian
Strait to Singapore Road, many sailing vessels have preferred to pass from
the Inner Route by Abang Strait or Dumpo Strait into Rhio Strait. It seems
probable that the best passages might be made in this way, for the great
depth of water in the western part of Singapore Strait is often embarrassing
in light winds.

Temiang Island, which limits the Temiang Group to the noi-th-eastward,
is 7 miles long, 3 miles broad, and much the largest of the islands. The
island is mostly composed of high hills, and near the West end is some table
land elevated 800 ft.

Close off the N. W. end of Temiang is Pintoe, an island about 1^ mile
long ; and otf the N.W. end of Pintoe is an island named Kebat. All the
islands are fringed with reefs.

Pompon Island lies S.W. by W., a little over 2 miles from Kebat ; it is
rather more than half a mile in diameter, rising to a hill in the centre 433 ft.
high. A rock, awash at high water, lies close oflP its N.W. point. Some
detached rocks he N.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile from Pompon, and
N.W. i N., the same distance from the N.W. islet of the Babie Group,
which lie between Pitoe and Pompon Islands.

Pompon Shoal, N. f E., 2J miles from Pompon Island, consists of three or
four rocks several feet above water. A detached rock awash lies a quarter
of a mile to the westward.

Irene Rock, said to lie W. by N. ^ N., about 7 miles from Pompon
Island, could not be found by the Rifleman, in 1869, in the course of a few
hours' search'; but the examination was insufficient to disprove its ex-
istence.

Allor, a small round island, 139 ft. high, is surrounded by a reef and
some islets.

PANGALLAP ISLAND, 3 miles long N. by W. \ W. and S. by E. J E.,
is moderately elevated and fringed by a reef. The channel between Pan-
gallap and the reef extending from Allor is 3 cables broad, and from 7 to 23
fathoms deep.

Dedap lies to the westward of Pangallap. Off the S.E. end of Dedap
are three small islets and a rock, the latter being distant a little over half a
mile. A mile from the island, in the same direction, are two rocks awash ;

340 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STEAITS, ETC.

from the outer one of these the South end of Pangjallap bears N.E. | E.,
and the South extreme of Allor E.S.E. The channel eastward of these, and
between Dedap and Pangallap, appears to be free from danger, with the
exception of a rock awash a short distance outside the edge of the reef
frin;i;ing the latter island, and which bears E. by N. I N. from the North
end of Dedap.

A small islet lies close to the N.W. point of Dedap, and half a mile off in
that direction lie two small islets, encircled at a short distance by a reef.
These islets form the southern limit of Abang Strait Cdescribed farther on).

Rodong Group (see page 314) lies to the westward of Niamok and Mis-
sana. The three eastern islands, which form a sub-group, are known as
the Desie Islands ; the two western ones, lying close together, as the Ma-
dang Islands. The channel between Missana and the Eodong group is
encumbered with many dangers, and should not be used.

The Dua Islands, two rather low islands, lie W.N.W. 2^ miles from
the Madangs. Two reefs lie 1^ mile north-westward of the Dua Islands.
On the South end of the southern one is an islet, and on the N.E. extreme
of the other is Tree Rock, a rock about 10 ft. above high water, with a tree
upon it. A coral patch, with 3 fathoms water over it, and 11 to 14 fathoms
around it, lies N.W. by W. \ W. nearly a mile from Tree Eock, the channel
between them is safe.

Tetampan Group, occupying a circular space about 4 miles in diameter,
lies north-westward of the Eodong group ; it comprises numerous islands,
islets and rocks, divided from each other by narrow, intricate channels, en-
cumbered with many reefs and dangers. Tetampan, elevated 390 ft., the
highest and most conspicuous of the islands, is situated near the S. W. part
of the gi'oup ; Binan and Katarg Linga form its eastern and northern limits,
and the Nopong Islands, with the adjacent islets and reefs, its north-western
ones.

TEMIANG STRAIT, leading from the China Sea to the Durian and the
other straits adjacent, is about 14 miles long and 2 broad, its direction being
N.W. by W. i W. and S.E. by E. | E. ; it is bounded to the southward by
the northern islands of the Sebangka group, and by Temiang, Pintoe, and
Kebat, and to the northward by Niamok, the Eodong group, Dua Islands,
and Tree Eock Eeefs.

A dangerous pinnacle rock awash, very difficult to make out, lies at the
southern entrance of this strait, nearly 1 mile N.E. from a group of small
islands south-eastward of Temiang. This danger may be passed on either
side, the channel to the southward being three-quarters of a mile wide, but
the best plan is to pass to the northward ; in doing so, however, be car,eful
to avoid the shore reef, which projects half a mile to the southward of the
East point of Desie, and also a rock awash, which lies more than 2 cables
from the South point of the Madang Islands.

RODONG AND ABANG STEAITS. 341

RODONG STRAIT, between the Eodong and Tetampan groups, is also
navigable, but a rock awash, which lies N.N.E. \ E. more than 6 cables off
the North point of Rodong, must be carefully avoided ; there are also two
patches of reef, one lying a quarter of a mile south-eastward, and the other
about double the distance south-westward, of the southern island of tho
Tetampan group. Besides avoiding the first-mentioned danger, vessels,
when working, should not stand within a line joining the northern extremes
of Rodong and Missana Islands.

The channel between the Tetampan group and Dua Island and Tree Rock
Reefs is safe, taking care not to stand too close to the S.W. islands of the
group between Tetampan and Little Nopong.

PANGALLAP STRAIT is limited on the East by the Tetampan group
and the Selanga Islands, and on the West by Allor, Pangallap, and Oedek
(page 314). A bank, with from 5 to 10 fathoms water on it, lies in the fair-
way of this strait, having on the northern end a rock awash, from which
North Selanga Island bears E. i S. IJ mile, and the apex of Allor Island
S.W. by S. 2^ miles ; near its opposite extreme is a 2^-fathom patch of hard
sand, with the N.E. extreme of Pangallap bearing N.W. ^ N. 2h miles, and
the apex of Allor Island S.W. f S. I5 mile. Vessels may pass betn-een or
on either side of these dangers, but it is better to pass to the eastward of
both of them. South of the N.E. point of Pangallap a hard mud hank, with
5 to 10 fathoms water over it, extends nearly a mile to the eastward, and
the same distance to the southward ; and a bank of sand, nearly half as
large, with about the same depth of water over it, extends to the eastward
from Oedik ; elsewhere the soundings are very irregular, 13 to 28 fathoms.

The strong tides near the springs, owing to the uneven nature of the
bottom, cause violent whirls and overfalls, which are alarming to strangers ;
but it seems only necessary to avoid the above described dangers to pass
safely through the strait, as none besides those could be discovered, though
carefully searched for.

ABANG STRAIT. — Little Abang, about a mile in extent, lies 2 miles
N.W. by N. from Dedap, with the Nio Islands, a group of islets and rocks
surrounded by reefs, lying nearly a mile from its eastern side. Between
Dedap and Little Abang is Abang Strait, narrowed to the breadth of a mile
by two islets, which lie half a mile off the N.W. end of Dedap, and by the
Sapientoe islets and rocks, the outer edge of which is three-quarters of a mile
from the S.E. end of Little Abang. A short distance westward of the fair-
way of the strait is a deep hole of 25 fathoms, with 15 fathoms round its
edge. The depths near the islets are 7 fathoms, with 12 in mid-channel,
increasing to 20 or 23 fathoms between the North point of Pangallap and
the Nio Islets.

Great Abang, twice the size of Little Abang, lies N.N.W. of it, and be-
tween them is a channel with 3 to 9 fathoms, but it is narrow, being con-

342 VAEELLA AND DUKIAN STEAITS, ETC.

tracted by an island near Great Abang and the reefs extending from both
islands. A rock, with but 3 ft. water over it, lies W. i S. nearly a mile
from the S.W. point of Little Abang, and S.E. | E. the same distance from
the South point of Great Abang ; near it the depths are 4 to 9 fathoms.
Close to the West side of Great Abang is Toriel Islet, and W. J S. H rni^e
from this islet is Hippomenes Rock, a rock awash, with 7 to 13 fathoms
around it.

Cameleon Rock was examined in the Rifleman ; it is a small rock about a
foot above high water, with 1 1 fathoms close to its West side, and some
patches of 2^ and 3 fathoms from a quarter to half a mile northward and
north-eastward of it. From the rock the apex of Potong bears N.N.W.,
distant nearly 6? miles, and the South point of Little Abang E. f N., distant
about 7 miles. Potong, if not brought to the westward of North, will lead
well clear to the westward of both the Irene and Cameleon Rocks.

Potong' Island, lying 5 miles W.N.W. from Great Abang, has several
hills upon it, one of which is 462 ft. high. The island is surrounded by
numerous islets and rocks, which, off its S.E. side, extend three-quarters of
a mile. Off the N.E. side the soundings are very irregular and somewhat
shoal, 3^ fathoms being found at two-thirds, and '2\ fathoms at one-third of
a mile from the shore.

LTJMPO STRAIT, 7 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 3 miles broad, is
bounded on the southward by Oedik Island and the eastern sides of the
Abang group, and to the northward by Dumpo, the S.W. part of Gallang,
and the islands Penjaboeng and Somoet, which lie off the West coast of
Gallang. Shore reefs, not extending far from most of them, front the whole
of these islands, but from the S.W. part of Gallang the reef projects a third,
and from Semoet not quite a quarter of a mile.

This strait affords easy and safe navigation, the fairway being perfectly
free from danger, and the following rocks lie so near the shore that they
may be easily avoided. Haai Shoal, a patch of 2 fathoms, lies a quarter of
a mile S.S.E. from Duinpo ; a &-feet rock E.S.E. half a mile from the S.W.
point of Gallang ; a rock above water, E. by S., a third of a mile from the North
point of Great Abang ; and Penjahoeng Rock, S.W. | S., 4 cables from the
North point of the island of that name. This last is the most dangerous,
and will be avoided if the S.W. point of Gallang be kept open of the S.W.
point of Penjaboeng, and the apex of Tafelberg, a table hill on Gallang
Island, open of the N.W. end of Semoet. The soundings in the straits are
very variable.

We now commence the description of Durian Strait.

THREE BROTHERS.— The South Brother, in lat. 0° 33' 20" N., long.
103° 46' E., is the largest and highest of the three islands lying at the
South entrance of Durian Strait. It is about a mile in length North and
South, and not quite half a mile in breadth ; the highest hill near the centre

FALSE DUniAN. 343

of the island is 257 ft. high, and may be seen 17 or 18 miles. There is a
■white clifl' or rock on the N.E. side, which makes this island remarkable.
The Middle Brother, only 135 ft. high, lies about 1^ mile northward from
the North point of the South Brother. Between the South and Middle
Brother there is a safe passage, about two-thirds of a mile wide, with
soundings from 9 to 13 fathoms. The North Brother, sometimes called the
Round Brother, is smaller and lower than the others, being but 87 ft. high.
It lies N. by W. ^ W. 2i miles from the Middle Brother, and between them
there is a safe passage, with 11 to 17 fathoms water, now frequently used.

The Eastern Bank, which bounds the channel to the eastward of the
Brothers, is composed of hard sand, having irregular depths on it from 1 to
6 fathoms, with 10 and 12 fathoms close to its western edge. A number of
low mangrove islands extend from about 2^ miles northward of the Sumatra
coast, to a distance of 8 or 9 miles in that direction from it. The south-
easiernmost of the group is a very small islet, known as South Island, 90 ft.
high, and surrounded by rocks. The north-easternmost one, named Long
Island, which lies about 6 miles westward of the South and Middle Brothers,
is 1^ mile long, North and South ; and 1^ mile north-westward of it is a
higher island, named Saddle.

A patch, having only 2 fathoms water over it, lies with the northern ex-
treme of Long Island, bearing W. ^ S., Saddle Island W. f N., and the peak
of False Durian N.N.W. I W. About a mile north-eastward uf the 2-fathom
patch is another shoal, with 3 fathoms water over it, and 4 or 5 fathoms
around it, discovered in 1861 by Mr. Stanton, commanding H.M.S. Saracen.
It is about a third of a mile in extent, composed of sand and shells, and lies
three-quarters of a mile South from Hooky Islet, off the eastern extreme of
False Durian.

All these dangers will be avoided by keeping South Passage Island, or
the West end of Little Durian, open eastward of the rocky islet lying oif the
eastern extreme of False Durian ; or by not bringing the latter to the north-
ward of N.N.W. until nearly abreast of it, when it may be approached to 2
cables' lengths.

FALSE DURIAN, or Pulo Duri, is a very irregular shaped island, about
2^ miles in extent, and with the contiguous islands, forms tlie south-western
limit of Durian Strait. Near its N.W. end is a peak 604 feet high, which
bears West distant 5 miles from the North Brother.

Three or four small islands lie close to the S.E. point of False Durian,
the outermost one of which, named Eocky Islet, is very small. A group of
islets and rocks, called Eocky Islands, lie off the N.W. point.

As the islands hereabout have a similar appearance, strangers when
coming from the southward ought to be careful not to mistake one for the
other, for some ships have not been able to discern the proper passage. The

314 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

peak of Great Durian being higher than the peak of False Durian, or indeed
of any other land, is first discerned in coming from the southward.

Richardson Shoal. — This dangerous coral rock, on which the ship Hurry
Pnddemsey, Capt. Richai'dson, struck in May, 1863, has lately been examined
by H.M. surveying vessel Bifeman. It is about 200 yards in extent, has 2f
fathoms on it, and 7 to 10 fathoms around it, and between it and the East
side of False Durian Island, at low-water springs. From the rock the peak
of False Durian bears W. by N., distant 2| miles ; Rocky Islet S. | E. three-
quarters of a mile j North Brother, E. ^ N., 2| miles ; and Middle Brother
IS.E. by E., 4 miles. To avoid this rock, do not bring Rocky Islet South of
S. by W., until the peak of False Durian bears West.

GREAT DURIAN, or Pulo Sanglar, about 4 miles N.N.W. of the North
Brother, is a larger island than False Durian, being '6^ miles in extent, with
a peak near its centre 965 feet high. This peak, as remarked above, is
the highest land hereabouts, and is consequently visible at the greatest
distance.

The Tombs is the name given to some islets and reefs, extending about
three-quarters of a mile from the southern part of Great Durian. A small
reef of coral lies about half a mile south-westward of the Tombs, and about
a mile S.E. by S, from the S.W. point of Great Durian.

Little Durian, 590 ft. high, and about half the size of Great Durian, lies
off the N.W. extreme of the latter island, from which it is separated by a
channel, only a quarter of a mile wide. South Passage Island, 204 ft. high,
and about half a mile in extent, North and South, lies three-quarters of a
mile from the S.W. coast of Little Durian. It is surrounded by rocks lying
close to the shore. North Passage Island, 156 ft. high, is about half the size
of South Passage Island, from which it bears N.N.W. f W. 2^ miles.

PRINCES ISLAND, lying W. by S. f S. 2f miles from North Passage
Island, on the western side of Durian Strait, is a coral formation not much
above high water. It is covered with trees, and their heigM being about
100 ft., the island has a round and conspicuous appearance.

SOUTHERN ENTRANCES of DURIAN STRAIT.— Durian Strait may
be entered on either side of the Three Brothers. When the peak of Great
Durian is seen bearing N. by W., a ship will be in the fair track for entering
the strait by either channel, and should steer for the South Brother, which,
in one with Great Durian peak, bears N.N.W., nearly.

The channel eastward of the Three Brothers, between them and the
Eastern Bank, and between the North Brother and the South shore of
Great Durian, is about 4 miles wide, having various depths, from 15 to 10
fathoms.

The channel westward of the Brothers, between them and False Durian,
is 3 miles wide, and has from 8 to 14 fathoms water, but near the North
Brother 24 fathoms. Both channels are equally safe.

MUEO ISLAND— THE TWINS. 345

The Strait of Sang-lar, to the northward of Great and Little Durian, may
also be considered one of the southern entrances to Durian Strait, although
it is but imperfectly surveyed, and does not offer any advantages to induce a
vessel to proceed through it, but on the contrary is very inferior to either of
the other channels.

Monkey Islands, three in number, lie from IJ to li mile northward of
Little Durian. Two rocks, or patches of reef, lie off the N. W. point of the
•westernmost Monkey Island, and a 4-fathom patch midway between the
West end of Little Durian and the western Monkey Island.

MTJRO ISLAND is long, narrow, but high, and forms the eastern side of
the middle part of Durian Strait. It extends from about 1 J mile northward
of Great Durian in a N.AV. by N. direction for b\ miles. On its East side,
between it and Suji Island, is the Strait of Muro. The West side of Muro
is but imperfectly known.

Dolphin Island, 153 ft. high, lies about a third of a mile off the N.W.
end of Muro Island. A rock lies a third of a mile N.N.W. from the North
extreme of Dolphin Island. A reef, of an oval form, 2 cables in extent,
steep-to all around, and dry at low-water springs, lies a mile westward of the
southern part of Dolphin Island.

Bolombo Island is high, about 3 miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S.,
and half a mile broad. Its southern end is about a mile E. ^ N. from the
North end of Muro, and its North end is about three-quarters of a mile from
the Twins. Its North end is fronted by a reef to a distance of nearly half a
mile, having a white rock within its margin, off the N.W. point of the island.
Red Island, or Pulo Goomeata, lying nearly 2 miles N.W. of Dolphin Island,
is of triangular shape, about half a mile in extent, and covered with trees.
Its height is 256 ft., and it may be seen 15 miles off.

The passage between Eed Island and Dolphin Island ought not to be
attempted, for nearly in mid-channel lie two dangerous rocks, one awash at low
water spring tides, and the soundings near being irregular, afford no guide.
A rockt/ patch, dry at low water, lies rather more than half a mile W. by S.
from the S.W. end of Red Island, with deep water all round, and between it
and the island. Nearly half a mile northward of Eed Island is a small rocky
islet with a tree on it, surrounded by rocks, dry at low water.

The Twins, or Fulo Mentegas are two small round islands, lying a little
more than a mile north-eastward of Eed Island. They bear N.N.W. and
S.S.E. of each other, and are 152 ft. high. Distant three-quarters of a mile
north-westward of the North Twin is the North end of a dangerous and exten-
sive coral reef , dry at low-water spring tides, having from 10 to 17 fathoms
all round.
The Western Shore of Durian Strait, from False Durian to the Carimons,

1. A. 2 Y

346 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

is formed of numerous low islands, covered with trees, the principal of which
is Sabon. This land is generally known as the Sabon shore, for the islands
forming it are separated from Sabon and from each other only by very nar-
row channels, and therefore appear as one continuous island.

Pulo Panjang, a large, low, flat island, lies northward of Saddle, and
westward of False Durian ; off its North coast is a small islet named Round
Island. Pulo Torreatep, the next island named on the chart, is the largest
and easternmost of a group of several islands, and bears N. W. by W. ^ W.,
5 miles from the N.W. point of False Durian ; about a third ot a mile from
its East side is a patch with 4 fathoms water on it. Two miles N.N.W. f W.
from Terreatep, is what appears to be rather a conspicuous island. The
channel between this island and Princes Island has not been sounded.

SABON ISLAND, or Pulo Pappan, is the largest island on the western
shore of Durian Strait. Its North point reaches to within 3 miles of the
southern part of the Great Carimon, and off its N.E. coast lie the islands of
Buru, Paril, and Pandan.

Beep-water Point, the most eastern point of Sabon, lies 2f miles N. W. from
Princes Island. There is another point 2^ miles westward of Princes Island,
the coast between forming a bay, fronting which is a reef with some trees
upon it, from the outer part of which Deep-water point bears N.N.W. ^ W.,
distant three-quarters of a mile. To avoid this danger, be careful to keep
the peak of False Durian open eastward of Princes Island.

From Deep-water Point the Sabon coast trends N.W. by W., and lying
close off it are four islands, the north-westernmost of which is the largest.

Middleburgh Shoal, lying nearly midway between Red Island and the
bank extending from Sabon Island, is a reef of coral rocks, 300 yards in
extent, of circular form, partly dry, about 1 foot above the sea at low-water
spring tides, its sides being almost perpendicular, with 7 and 9 fathoms
close to the rocks, and 17 to 20 fathoms about 200 yards off. When on the
centre of the shoal, the Passage Islands were in one, their East extremes
bearing S.E. by S. ; the rocky islet, with a tree on it, off the North end of
Red Island, nearly on with the North brow of the North Twin ; the Twins
open to the northward of Red Island ; the South end of Red Island, E. by
N. i N. ; Sabon Hill, W. by N. i N. ; Clay Island, W. i N. ; peak of Great
Durian, S.E. i E., and the peak of False Durian, S.S.E. J E.

Passage eastward of Middleburgh Shoal. — The passage between Middleburgh
Shoal and the bank extending from the Sabon shore is about If mile wide,
with soundings deepening from 6 or 7 fathoms near the bank to 14 and 16
and 20 fathoms near the shoal.

PULO BURU is a low island, 4^ miles in length N.N.W. and S.S.E.,
crowned with high trees, and having a few inhabitants, who collect great
quantities of mangosteins, durians, and other fruits, which flourish here in
a wild and luxuriant state. It is the next largest island to Sabon, and its

GEEAT AND LITTLE CARIMON ISLANDS. 347

S.E. part bears N.N.AV. nearly 5 miles from Deep-water Point. Off its
South end is a small islet, named Clay Island, covered with straggling trees
and surrounded by rocks.

The eastern shore of Pulo Bum is fronted by a shoal-water bank to a
distance of from 1 to 1^ mile, and rocks partly dry at half tide nearly to the
same distance, with Sabon Hill, or Gunong Pappan bearing from W. J N.
to West. These dangers may be avoided by keeping Deep-water Point South
of S. I E.

Sabon Hill cannot be easily mistaken, being the only hill on the western
side of the channel to the southward of Great Carimon, which island has on
it two high peaks or hills, and the Little Carimon one, as seen from the
southward, but has really two high peaks on it also.

Pulo Pandan, the southern of two small islands lying about a mile north-
ward of Pulo Buru, is low, and covered with trees about 100 ft. high. Pulo
Paril is a much larger island than Pandan, lying to the westward of it, and
close to the northern part of Sabon.

Close to the eastward of Deep-water Point the depth is 9 fathoms, and 5
fathoms close to the northern extreme of the point ; but from thence a shal-
low bank extends, with a slight curve iuto the bight between Deep-water
Point and Pulo Buru, as far as Pulo Pandan. Deep-water Point bearing
S. t E. will lead a mile clear of the edge of this bank.

GREAT CARIMON ISLAND, which divides the Straits of Malacca,
Durian, and Singapore, has been described on page 136, ante. It is 10
or 11 miles in length in a N.N.W. direction, and near its North end are two
high and conspicuous peaked hills, the northern one 1,376 feet, and the
southern one 1,474 ft. high ; the rest of the island consists of low level land.
Its southern part is separated from Sabon Island by the Strait of Clam, 2^
miles wide.

LITTLE CARIMON (see p. 136) is a high, bold island, 2^ miles in length
N.W. and S.E., and rising to two peaks, covered with trees, the northern one
being 1,067 ft., and the southern one 1,026 ft. high.

Sand Banks. — A patch of 5 fathoms lies E. i S. 1| mile from Pulo Pan-
dan ; and there are two other patches of 4 fathoms off the same island, one
bearing E. by N. nearly 2 miles, and the other about N.E. J N. the same
distance from it. These patches seem to be the tail of a bank of sand lying
about 2 miles off the S.E. coast of Great Carimon, and which nearly joins
another bank extending S.E. from the Little Carimon. Pulo Pandan bear-
ing South will lead to the eastward of the 2j-fathom patch on the southern
bank ; and the peaks of Little Carimon in line about N.W. will lead close to
the edge of the northern bank in 5 or 4j fathoms. A white Herbert's buoy is
said to lie oflF the reef extending from the S.W. point of Carimon Island.

Tides.— Throughout Varella and Durian Straits the tides are very irregu-
lai-, rendering it difficult to ascertain either their direction or velocity. In

348 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

August and September the rise and fall was found generally to be between
10 and 11 ft., sometimes running from 3 to 4 knots per hour during the
springs, at other times not more than 2| knots at the same period. This
irregularity appears to be produced by the prevailing winds in the North or
South entrance of the straits, forcing the tides through in one direction for

1 2 or 1 8 hours at a time, although the rise and fall on the shore was regular.
But sometimes the tides run with regularity.

At Eed Island, in the northern part of Durian Strait, it is high water, full
and change, at 10'', and the tide rises 10 or 11 ft.

The ripplings might be alarming to a stranger ; they appear to be caused
by the uneven bottom, and the resistance the tides meet with from the steep
reefs and numerous small islands.

PHILLIP CHANNEL, or the north-eastern entrance to Durian Strait, is
formed between the numerous islands fronting Battam and Boelang Islands
to the south-eastward, and Long and Round Islands to the north-westward.
It appears to be free from danger, with good anchorage, and is a short route
for vessels proceeding to or from Singapore.

SUJI, JOMBOL, BOELANG, and BATTAM, are four islands lying to the
north-eastward of Muro and Bolombo Islands. The two former are about
10 miles long in a N.W. and opposite direction; the two latter are much
larger, Boelang being about 15 miles long, in the same direction, and 7
miles broad, and Battam 15 or 16 miles in an East and West direction, and

13 or 14 miles North and South. The northern parts of Boelang and Battam
form part of the southern side of Singapore Strait.

Numerous small islands, islets, and rocks lie off the shores of and in the
channels between the above-named large islands, the whole of which are
known under the general name of the Boelang Archipelago, but in the pre-
sent state of our knowledge, no vessel should venture among them, and it is
therefore only the outermost islands and dangers which concern the ordinary
navigator, and those will be next described, after the following brief ob-
servations on the channels between the large islands. Muro, Suji, Jombol,
and Batu Hadji Straits are the names of the channels separating these large
islands.

Muro Strait is bounded on the West by G-reat Durian, Muro, and Bolombo
Islands, and on the East by the eastern bank and Suji Island. There are
many islands and rocks in it, and it has been but imperfectly surveyed. It
is, however, navigable with proper care; and in 1860 an electric telegraph
cable between Singapore and Batavia was laid through it from a large
steamer piloted by a Dutch steam frigate.

Suji Strait, between Suji and Jombol, is very imperfectly known, but it is
certainly encumbered at both ends with many dangers.

Jombol Strait, between Jombol and Boelang, is also encumbered with
many dangers, although apparently not to so great an extent as Suji ; it is

PULO DONCAN. 349

but imperfectly known ; and at present, like the rest of the straits, is not
available for general navigation.

Batu Hadji Strait, between Boelang and Battam, is very narrow, in some
places not a quarter of a mile broad. A running survey was made of this
strait several years ago by Mr. L. C. Bailey, Master E.N., and it is said to
be available for vessels, but we cannot give any directions for it. A short
time since it was urged upon the attention of nautical men at Singapore as
being a route by which vessels could be speedily towed from Singapore Eoads
to sea in the N.E. monsoons ; but it will have to be properly surveyed before
it can be used for such a purpose.

PULO DONCAN, lying N.E. f N., distant 6^- miles from the Twins (page
245), is the larger of two low wooded islands, fronting the North entrance
of the Strait of Jombol, which is formed by a group of beautiful islands,
some of which are inhabited. Pulo Doncan is surrounded by reefs to a
distance of a mile, and between E.N.E. and E.S.E. to 2 miles off.

Cap Island, so named from its appearance, bearing N. J W. 4 miles from
Pulo Doncan, is a rock about 40 ft. in height, with a flat top and perpendi-
cular sides, surrounded by a reef to the distance of about 300 yards.

It would be imprudent to pass to the eastward of Cap Island, between it
and Steep Cape, as a reef of rocks lies 1 mile off Steep Cape, and it is quite
possible that others may exist, for the chart has very few soundings in this
locality.

Round Island, or Tahong Ketchil, is a small but elevated islet, lying i^
miles northward of Cap Island, 2f miles W. by S. ^ S. from Helen Mara
Reef, and 3|^ miles S.S.W., southerly, from Raffles lighthouse. It is the
south-easternmost of a chain of islands and reefs which extend from it in a
north-westerly direction for about 5 J miles.

Long Island, or Tahong Besar, 115 ft. high, and lying nearly half a mile
N.N.W. of Round Island, is similarly surrounded by reefs, and a small islet
lies close to its North shore. Long Island and Round Island are also known
as the Brothers : both are covered with trees.

Red Island, or Pulo Patampong, is a mere islet or rock, 20 ft. high, covered
with trees, with a beach of red sand, lying two-thirds of a mile to the N W.
of Long Island.

Three detached reefs lie in a south-westerly direction from Red Island, the
outer and largest one being distant nearly \^ mile from it. Raffles light-
house on Coney Island, in line with the N. W. extreme of Long Island, leads
to the eastward of them ; Round Island bearing E. by N. leads to the south-
ward ; and the northern Tree Island, open westward of the southern one,
bearing N.N.W., leads to the westward.

Tree Islands, or Pulo Angup, two small islets, or rather clumps of trees,
are the outermost of the islands and dangers which extend north-westward
from Round Island, and limit the southern side of the western entrance of

350 VARELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

Singapore Strait. In passing northward of Tree Island, the Raffles light-
house (or light) should not be brought to the northward of East, nor the
reef neared under a depth of 1 4 fathoms, which will keep a vessel half a mile
northward of its northern edge.

Kent Rocks lie between Red Island and Tree Island Reef, N.W. |-N. and
S.E. f S, from each other, and not quite half a mile apart. Eromthe south-
ern rock, which is the larger of the two, and has 1 i fathom over it at low
water springs, the North end of Long Island is on with the centre of Red
Island, S.E. by E., and Raffles Hghthouse bears E. by N. J N. From the
northern rock, which is about 30 or 40 ft. in circuit, with not more than 3 ft.
water on it, the southern Tree Island bears W. f S. (or W. J N.), distant a
mile, and Raffles lighthouse E. by N. I N., 4 miles.

HELEN MARS REEF is the outermost of some dangerous reefs, which,
together with several small islets, lie off the N.W. point of Boelang. From
this reef Round Island bears W. by S. f S., distant Sf miles, and Raffles
lighthouse is just inside the left extreme of Barn and Alligator Islands
N.W. i W., nearly. A short distance from it are 14 and 15 fathoms.

The North peak of Great Carimon in line with Red Island, leads close to
the northward of this dangerous shoal ; Red Island, bearing W. f 8., will
lead well clear to the northward ; and Steep Cape, the bold headland inside
Cap Island, if kept to the southward of S. ^ W., will lead to the westward.

The Helen Mars Reef lies at the point where Phillip Channel joins the
main channel of Singapore Strait, which at this part is bounded on the
North side by Coney Island, on which stands Raffles lighthouse, and the
islands adjacent to it ; and on the South side by the Helen Mars and adjacent
reefs and islands. Long Island, Red Island, Kent Rocks, and Tree Islands,
with its surrounding reef.

The description of the Rabbit and Coney, with Raffles lighthouse, and the
western part of Singapore Strait, is given hereafter.

Directions Northward. — Departing from Bmiha Strait, and being abreast of
Batakarang Point in 7 fathoms, if bound to Varella Strait, a N.N.W. course
will lead towards Varella or Brahalla Island, distant about 78 miles. The
bank along the Sumatra coast in this space being very flat, the soundings are
usually the best guide, and the rule is to keep in from 5^ to 7 fathoms.
Recollect, however, that at 9 miles S.E. by E. from Tanjong Jaboeng the
bank projects a sort of spit or horn, having only 4 fathoms water over it,
and 6 fathoms between its northern part and the shore.

The tides near the shore are generally strong ; in the offing they are irre-
gular, and currents sometimes prevail.

In passing through the South channel, between Varella Island and Tan-
jong Jaboeng, keep in 10 or 12 fathoms towards Varella to give a berth to
the bank of hard ground projecting from Tanjong Jaboeng ; from thence,
■working along the coast to the westward.

DIBECTIONS. 351

Standing towards Varella, remember the shoal with only 2 fathoms water
over it, reported to lie E.S.E., 3 miles from that island (page 335). Being
through the narrow part of the passage between Tanjong Jaboeng and
Varella, which is about 6^ miles wide, a N.W. by W. course should be steered
towards the Alang Tiga Islands, keeping along the coast in soundings of 9
to 12 fathoms, and carefully avoid the Spake Rock (page 336). In this
track attention to the tides is indispensable, for they are often irregular, some-
times setting out of the Jambie River to the north-eastward 2^ or 3 miles
per hour.

Having passed the Alang Tiga at about 2 miles, a course about N. by W.
should be steered for the southernmost of the Three Brothers, bearing from
the Alang Tiga N. by W. i W., distant 63 miles. In working, be careful
not to stand nearer to Basso Island or Dato Point than 2 miles, and also
avoid being tempted to stretch into Amphitrite Bay, for the banks off the
former, and the shoals in the latter, are steep-to, and the lead cannot be
depended upon to give warning in sufficient time.

To enter Durian Strait by the eastern channel, a berth of 1 or 2 miles may be
given to the South and Middle Brothers, by passing them in 10 or 12 fa-
thoms ; and on nearing the North Brother, give a prudent berth to the reef
that projects from it to the south-eastward, taking care also not to stand too
far over towards the eastern bank. When the southern point of Great
Durian is approached, the three islets near it, called the Tombs, will be
discerned, and Sabon Hill, bearing about W. by N. | N., making like two
islands, which may be mistaken for the Carimons. Having passed the North
Brother, at 1^ or 2 miles distance, haul to the westward, giving a berth of
about 1^ mile to the southern part of Durian, to avoid the sunken rocka
rather more than half a mile south-westward of the Tombs.

To enter Durian Strait by the western channel, when near the South Brother,
steer to the westward of it at IJ mile distance, and proceed to the northward
in 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms, about mid-channel between the other Brothers and
the eastern part of False Durian, to avoid the foul ground surrounding the
Brothers, and the shoal patches which lie to the southward of the rocky islet
contiguous to the East end of False Durian (see page 343).

Take care, however, when standing towards False Durian, not to bring
rocky islet to the southward of S. by W. until the peak of False Durian
bears West, to avoid Richardson Rock.

Having cleared the Brothers by either of the channels, the Passage Islands
will be seen to the north-westward on the East side of the channel ; and on
the West side, opposite North Paasage Island, is a flat island called Princes.
There is a channel between the Passage Inlands and Little Durian, but it is
not frequented, as it is not so convenient as the former ; but in a case of ne-
cessity a ship may sail between any of these islands,' giving them a berth of
1 mile, as off their points there is generally rocky and foul ground.

352 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

After leaving the Brothers, steer for the Passage Islands ; in mid-channel
the depths will be generally from 17 to 26 fathoms. When they are ap-
proached, Eed Island, about 6 miles N. ^ W. from North Passage Island,
will be discerned ; it may be known by two islets to the north-eastward of
it, called the Twins. With care, the passage is safe in daylight, between
Middleburgh Shoal and Eed Island ; but as a reef, dry at low water, lies
W. by S. more than half a mile from the latter, and the depths being
from 17 to 26 fathoms, with some overfalls, the channel to the westward is
preferable.

There is also a passage close to the eastward of Red Island ; but as its
eastern side is bounded by the rocks lying about a mile N.W. of the Twins,
and by others about three-quarters of a mile E.S.E. of Red Island, it ought
not to be attempted by a stranger.

The channel eastward of Middleburgh Shoal, between it and the reef lying
W. by S. from Red Island, requires care ; the best track is about mid-channel
in 19 to 16 fathoms, mud. The peak of Great Durian bearing S.E. a little
southerly, or East point of North Passage Island in line with the peak of
False Durian, bearing S.S.E., will lead mid-channel between the patch off
Red Island and Middleburgh Shoal. In working, do not bring the peak of
False Durian above a ship's length open westward of North Passage Island,
nor stand nearer, to the reef off Red Island, than to bring that peak nearly
on with South Passage Island. The tides are very strong between Middleburgh
Shoal and Red Island, the flood setting to the southward, and the ebb to the
northward, from 3 to 4 knots on the springs.

The Channel tvestioard of the Middlehurgh Shoal is preferable, being about 2;^
miles wide, with mostly regular soundings from 16 and 17 fathoms close to
the shoal. When clear of North Passage Island, haul to the westward for
the Sabon shore, then steer about N.N.W. along it, in 7 fathoms, which
will lead in the fair track between that shore and Middleburgh Shoal. When
Red Island bears East, or E. by S., edge out a little, about N. by W. or
North, and deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms ; continuing to keep in these depths,
steer to the northward, taking care to give a good berth to the South end of
Great Carimon, to avoid the bank of 2J, 3, and 3^ fathoms, sand and mud,
which projects 3 miles from the South point of that island. When abreast
of this point, the distance of 4 or 5 miles should be preserved from the East
side of Great Carimon, and the Little Carimon may be rounded at any con-
venient distance, if bound to the northward.

In working, do not deepen towards Middleburgh Shoal to above 8J fa-
thoms, as there are 9 fathoms very near its eastern edge ; but the Sabon
shore may be approached to 5-J-, or to 5, or 4 J fathoms, in a small ship.

To pass through Phillip Channel. — If bound to Singapore, having passed
between Middleburgh Shoal and the Sabon shore, and brought Red Island
to bear East or E. by S., a course about N.E. by N. may be steered guard-

DIRECTIONS. 353

ing against tide, to pass through Phillip Channel to the westward of Doncaa
Island and between Cap Island and Round Island, neither of which should
be approached nearer than three-quarters of a mile, on account of the reefs
which project from them.

In this route take care that the vessel is not set too near the dangers which
lie at the entrances and near the points of the Straits of Muro, Suji, and
Jombol, for the tide rushes through them with a velocity of 8 or 4 knots at
springs. Having passed Cap Island, bring it to bear S. by W. f W., or
S.S.W. astern, which will lead through in mid-channel between Round and
Long Islands to the "West, and Helen Mars Reef to the East. The soundings
in this track are very variable, 15 to 35 fathoms.

In working, if standing westward of the South end of Round Island, do
not go farther in that direction than to bring Raffles Lighthouse on with the
N.W. end of Long Island.

Standing towards the N.E. sides of Round and Long Islands, to avoid the
reefs which extend from them, the Cap should not be brought South of
S. i W., or Raffles Lighthouse East of N. by E. The Cap, if not brought
West of S.S.W. f W., or Steep Cape, the bold headland inside Cap Island,
kept to the South of S. J W., will keep the vessel clear of the Helen Mars
Reef ; and when the northern peak of Great Carimon is well open northward
of Red Island, a vessel will be northward of that danger, and may proceed
to the north-eastward into the fairway of the main channel of Singapore
Strait. To proceed from thence to Singapore Road, see hereafter.

Directions Southward. — Leaving Singapore Strait, and having proceeded as
far as Raffles Lighthouse, and brought it to bear W.N.W., or N.W. by W.,
distant about 1^ mile, Cap Island will be seen bearing about S. by W. f W.,
or S.S.W., and kept upon either of those bearings it will lead about mid-
channel between Helen Mars Reef and Round Island. In working, Cap
Island must not be brought West of S.S.W. ^ W., or Steep Cape West of
S. 5 W., to avoid Helen Mars Reef. The dangers extending from Round
Island and Long Island will be avoided by not bringing Cap Island South
of S. i W.

Having passed westward of the Cap, which must not be approached nearer
than half a mile, a course about S.W. or S.W. by S. may be steered towards
the Sabon shore ; but, as before noticed, be particularly careful to guard
against the effects of the tide in this locality.

With a commanding breeze, the passage eastward of the Middleburgh
Shoal may be taken by keeping the East point of North Passage Island in
line with the N.W. peak of False Durian, which will lead midway between
the shoal and the rocky patch ; the water deepens towards the Middleburgh
Shoal, it being steep-to all round. To prevent being set upon it in light
I. A. 2z

no 4 VARELLA. AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

winds, caution is requisite, as the tides run here from 3 to 4 miles an hour at
times.

A vessel being abreast of Little Carimon, with its northern end bearing
West from 2 to 2^ miles, a S.S.E. 4 E. course will carry her clear of the mud-
banks fronting the low land of Grreat Carimon, in soundings from 7 to 8
fathoms, until the North end of Pandan Island is on with the North end of
Salion, when the strait between Great Carimon and Sabon will be open.
With a working wind from Little Carimon the soundings are the best guide
in standing towards the mud-banks fronting Great Carimon, which ought
not to be approached under 6 fathoms, remembering that the peaks of Little
Carimon in line, bearing about N.W., lead close to the edges of the shoal
banks ; the depths in the offing are from 14 to 16 fathoms, mud. The peaks
of Little Carimon in line will lead outside the dangers off Great Carimon, as
will also Pandan bearing South.

When the strait between Great Carimon and Sabon is open, the soundings
become irregular ; and here caution is requisite with a working wind, as the
tides set strong through this straight to the westward at times. When the
North end of Pandan is on with the North end of Sabon, and the vessel is
distant from the former 2 miles, in 7 fathoms, a S. by E. course will lead
clear of the mud-bank that fronts Buru, and midway between it and
Middleburgh Shoal, till the North end of Red Island is on with the South
end of the South Twin, and the soundings will be irregular, from 5 to 9
fathoms.

In working, a vessel may stand to the eastward to a moderate distance at
discretion, but she must not approach the shore of Buru nearer than 1^ mile
in 6 to 6 fathoms. When the South end of Buru bears West, the soundings
will decrease regularly on the edge of the mud-bank which extends south-
ward as far as Deep-water Point, and the mud-bank may be borrowed on at
discretion. Standing eastward towards Middleburgh Shoal, do not approach
it nearer than to bring the West end of North Passage Island to touch the
East end of South Passage Island ; the North end of Red Island, on with
the bluff headland to the eastward, will lead northward of the shoal, and the
North end of Red Island, on with the South end of the Twins, will lead
southward ; the latter transit-line also just clears to the northward, the rocky
patch lying to the westward of Red Island.

When clear of Middleburgh Shoal, and of the shoal to the westward of
Dolphin Island, as the strait to the southward is free from danger, a direct
course may be steered for the East end of False Durian ; the Passage Islands
may be approached to any convenient distance. Princes Island must not be
neared much under a mile, as dangers extend a considerable distance from
it. The soundings throughout are very irregular, decreasing towards the
western shore, where there is good anchorage. At IJ mile from the north-
western and largest of the two rocky islets off the N. W. end of False Dm'ian,

DIRECTIONS. • .300

and it being on with the peak of the latter, there is a bank of hard saud and
stones three-quarters of a mile in extent, having 4-^- fathoms least water, and
from 10 to 6 fathoms close-to ; when on it, the East side of South Passage
Island is on with the North end of Little Durian.

Standing towards the South end of Great Durian, come no nearer the
Tombs than 1 mile, when South Passage Island will bear N.W. by W. ^ W.,
to avoid the small reef of coral rock lying half a mile from the South Tomb,
and near to which are 20 to 29 fathoms. The best anchorage in this part of
the strait will be found about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern shore
of False Durian, in 12 to 14 fathoms. With a working wind, keep near
False Durian, where the tides are much stronger than in mid-channel; but
take care to bring Rocky Islet to the West of S. by W. before the peak of
False Durian bears West, to keep clear of Richardson Shoal.

To pass westward of the Brothers, between them and False Durian, steer
through in mid-channel ; but with a working wind, either side of the channel
may be borrowed on, when to the southward of Richardson Shoal.

After passing Rocky Islet, off the S.E. end of False Durian, keep it West
of N.N. W. until to the southward of the 3-fathom bank, lying nearly a mile
South of it.

To pass eastward of the Brothers, after passing the Tombs, steer E. by S.,
keeping about 2 miles from the North and East sides of the North Brother,
where the water will shoal to 12 or 13 fathoms ; then steer about S. by E.,
attending to the set of the tide, to pass the Middle and South Brother at the
same distance, not borrowing nearer thenii than 10 or 12 fathoms. With a
■working wind, do not stand too far over towards the Eastern bank, but tack
immediately, if irregular soundings are got on the overfalls near it, nor so
far out as to sink the beach of the Middle Brother from the deck of an ordi-
nary ship. The depths in this channel will be mostly from 10 to 12 fathoms
near the Brothers, to 1 6 or 18 fathoms near the overfalls on the edge of the
Eastern bank.

Being abreast of the South Brother, at about 2 miles distance, steer South
or S. by W. until it bears N.N.W. ; and whether the vessel has passed east-
ward or westward of the Brothers, after having brought the South Brother
to bear N.N.W., steer about S. by E. ^ E. towards the Alang Tiga Islands,
and endeavour to keep in from 14 to 16 fathoms. With a working wind the
best track is to stand to the eastward until in 17 fathoms, about mid-channel,
and into 12 fathoms towards the Sumatra shore, but not under this depth in
passing Dato and Basso Points, as the shoal fronting the latter is steep-to,
with 8 to 14 fathoms near its edge. After passing Basso Point, the coast
may be approached occasionally to 6 or 7 fathoms ; but the best track with
a fair wind is about mid-channel between it and the Alang Tiga, or pass
about 2 or 2^ miles westward of these islands at discretion.

Having passed the Alang Tiga, keep the southorumost island to the North

356 VAEELLA AND DURIAN STRAITS, ETC.

of N.W. by N., until Seera Island bears East or E. ^ S., to avoid the Speke
Rock ; the proper track from the Alang Tiga to Varella is to keep along the
Sumatra coast in 9 to 12 fathoms, borrowing to 6 or 7 fathoms towards the
coast, with a working wind.

Caution is, however, necessary if running here in thick weather or in the
night, on acount of strung tides setting into or out of the rivers, or you may
get set on the extensive sand and mud bank fronting the coast to the west-
ward of Tanjong Jaboeng, opposite the mouth of the Jambie River.

Varella Island maj'^ be passed at about 2 miles distance in 10 or 12 fathoms ;
but the spit surrounding Tanjong Jaboeng is steep from 5 fathoms, and
should be approached only with great caution under a depth of 10 fathoms
in working.

From a position about 8 miles East from Tanjong Jaboeng to abreast
Batakarang Point, at the entrance of Banka Strait, the course is about
S.S.E., and the distance 66 miles, and the whole of the bank fronting the
coast is in this space very flat, with regular soundings upon it, except the
horn or spit with only 4 fathoms on it, lying 9 miles south-eastward of Tan-
jong Jaboeng. The best guide, therefore, after leaving Yarella, is to keep
along the coast in from 5^ to 7 fathoms, until Batakarang Point is approached,
and 6i or 7 fathoms are the proper depths to preserve, when passing this
point and entering Banka Strait, to avoid the Frederick Hendrik Rocks, on
the East side of the channel ; with a working wind, the point may be ap-
proached to 6J or 5 fathoms.

CHAPTEE IX.

THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE,

This great thoroughfare between India and China is about 50 mih s in length
from ihe junction of the Straits of Malacca and Rhio, previously described,
to the Horsburgh Lighthouse at its eastern end. The great Malay Penin-
sula is, as it were, continued in extensive ranges of islands, separated by in-
tricate channels, of difficult navigation, but within a few years the beautiful
lighthouses at either end of the main ship channel have rendered the passage
easy, with common attention, either by day or night.

Formerly the ships of less draught and smaller tonnage passed through
the Old Strait to the northward of Singapore Island, but this is now never
used by the larger vessels of modern times — a fact due, in some degree, to
the western entrance of this channel, having become much shoaler.

In the earliest days of European navigation, the route followed was around
the South side of Singapore island, by the Salat Sambulan and the almost
newly-discovered New Harbour. It is exactly described by John Hughen
Van Linschoten, in his " Discourse of Voyages of the Portingales into the
East Indies," probably written in the early part of the sixteenth century, and
which certainly shows that these early Portuguese pilots were as well
acquainted with the channels as we are even now, and their instructions are
the best to pursue in the present day. They used Pedra Branca as a leading
mark, and went through the middle channel, as now recommended.

The strait was generally, though not minutely, surveyed by J. T. Thomp-
son, Esq , F.R.G.S., the Government surveyor at Singapore, and the en-
gineer to the excellent Horsburgh and Eaffles Lighthouses, which form its
portals; and the directions which follow are taken from the China Sea
Directory, land are based on this survey, as added to by Messrs. Richards,
Keod, and Stanton, R.N., in 1858 — 1862. We have re-arranged the matter

358 THE STEAIT OF SINGAPORE.

so as to commence at the western end, where it connects with the straits pre-
viously described.

The^Winds and Seasons are described on pages 6 — 13, ante.

The Currents and Tides are noticed generally on pages 26, 27.

Passages to and from Singapore are discussed on pages 50 — 67.

The NORTH SIDE of the STRAIT is formed by the southern extremity of
the Malay Peninsula, and the southern shores of the Island of Singapore.

TANJONG BOLUS, the N.W. limit of the strait, and the termination of
the Strait of Malacca, has been alluded to on page 136, the Carimon Islands
on the opposite side being the other boundary. They are also described on
page 136.

The Bank, which surrounds Tanjong Bolus, extends across the entrance of
the old Strait of Singapore, and is very shallow, having only from 6 to 12 ft.
water on most parts. Its outer edge trends about E. by N. for about 9 miles
to Tanjong Gul, the S. W. point of Singapore Island. The Old Strait of Sin-
gapore, or Salat Tamhroh, in early times the great highway, is not now used
by large vessels. Its western entrance has shoaled up very considerably.

To the south-eastward of Tanjong Gul is a cluster of islands, of which we
have no particular account, which bounds the inner channel, called Salat
Samhulan. This is navigable, but the strait South of the islands is much pre-
ferable, as it is more direct, and its dangers are marked by beacons.

The Coast of Singapore Island, to the eastward of the Salat Sambulan,
trends in a straight line S.E. and N.W., and at its South end is the New
Jlarbotir, a strait presently described, which separates it from Blakan Mati
Islands, beyond which, in the same direction, are the St. John's Islands,
which form the northern side of the narrowest part of the strait. To the
north-eastward of these islands is the roadstead and harbour of Singapore-
They will be described together hereafter.

SINKI CHANNEL, or Salat Sinki, by which Singapore New Harbour is
approached from the westward, is bounded on either side by reefs, the edges
of which are marked by beacons. Its length is 4 miles, and its breadth, at
the eastern part, where it is narrowest, is but three-quarters of a mile. The
depths in it are very irregular, generally from 9 to 15 fathoms, but in places
there are over 20 fathoms. The eastern extreme of the channel is about 3
miles to the westward of New Harbour, and the western extreme about the
same distance from the Sultan Shoal, described presently.

North Side.— The first of the reefs, westward from New Harbour, are
named the Ctjrene Shoals, and their S.E. extreme bears from Lots Wife
AV. by S., distant 2| miles. They consist of two patches, which dry at
three-quarters ebb, extending nearly l^ mile East and West, and about
half a mile North and South. The eastern patch is twice as large as tlie
western one, from which it is separated by a narrow channel. A heacon is
placed upon tho South extreme of each of the patches.

SIXKI CHANNEL. 359

Tlie next patch lies 3 miles to the westward of the western beacon of the
Cyrene Shoals ; it is very small, and has a ivhite beacon on its North side.

Half a mile North of this patch is a small island named Pulo Laut, having
a smaller island close to the eastward of it. These two islands are the
southernmost of an extensive group of islands lying close together, and to
the northward of which, between them and the Singapore shore, is the navi-
gable channel named Salat Sambulan.

The outermost reef on the North side of the Sinki Channel, and which
may be considered to form its north-western limit, is a small patch lying
W. 3 N. li mile from the beacon on the small patch last mentioned ; W.S.W.
1 mile from the "West end of Pulo Laut, and N.E. by E. J E. 2\ miles from
the Sultan Shoal ; this patch is not marked by a beacon.

South Side. — The South side of the channel is marked by four red beacons^
the w^iole of them being nearly in line on a W. by S. and E. by N. bearing,
and almost equidistant from each other. The easternmost beacon, bearing
S. by E. f E., about three-quarters of a mile from the eastern beacon on the
Cyrene Shoals, is placed on the northern edge of the reef which surrounds
Freshcater Island, or Pulo Boohun and Pulo Oelar. The next beacon, almost
a mile distant, is on the edge of the reef which extends from Pulo Bosing.
Westward of this last are two reefs, which dry at three-quarters ebb, and
their northern edges are each marked by a beacon.

Pulo Salook, a small islet, 90 ft. high, may be considered as the south-
western limit of the Sinki Channel. It is surrounded by a reef, which pro-
jects nearly a quarter of a mile from it, and other patches of reef lie in a
S.S.W. direction, and extend more than half a mile from it. Pulo Salook
bears S. f E. nearly 2\ miles from the beacon on the reef South of Pulo
Laut, S.E. by E. 2^ miles from the reef which forms the north-western
limit of the strait, and E. by S. | S. 3j miles from the tripod beacon on the
Sultan Shoal.

Directions. — Coming from the westward, and intending to proceed through
the Sinki Channel, a course may be steered to sight the tripod beacon on the
Sultan Shoal, which may be passed at a prudent distance on either side.
But to provide against the chance of the beacon having disappeared, or in
the event of thick weather, the safer plan will be to steer for Pulo Salook —
which, being a small round islet 90 ft. high, can be readily distinguished — •
on an East, or E. -^ S. bearing. When the tripod beacon is made out,* and
is brought to bear from N.N.W. to N.W., steer from E. by N. to E.N.E.,
giving Pulo Salook a berth of li mile ; after it is passed keep a good look-

* If the tripod beacon upon the Sultan Shoal cannot be seen, a vessel should not proceed
until she is quite certain of her position, and assured that some accident must have hap-
pened to the beacon. As the mail steamers, both to and from Europe, now pass through
the Sinki Channel, great attention is paid to the beacons which mark it.

360 THE STEAIT OF SINCxAPORE.

out for the outer beacons on either side of the channel, when it will be only
necessary to steer mid-channel between them.

The same course, E. by N. — always remembering to guard against the
effects of tide — will lead to the entrance of New Harbour, which should also
be entered in mid-channel, taking care not to get too close over towards
Berlayer Point, and to keep the conspicuous red bluff, which will be seen on
the South side of the harbour, well open of the P. and 0. Company's jetties,
to clear the Berlayer Eock. It is very necessary, however, when taking
care to avoid this rock, not to get too close over on the opposite side, as has
sometimes happened. The best plan is to keep as nearly as possible in mid-
channel.

The Tides are very irregular in the passages among the islands, running
sometimes 4 miles per hour at springs.

ST. JOHNS ISLANDS, which limit Singapore roads to the south-westward
and form the eastern limit of the North side of this part of Singapore Strait,
will be described presently.

The SISTERS are two small islets, not quite a mile to the westward of
West St. Johns Island ; the South Sister, named Pulo Soobur, is 89 ft. high.
They are surrounded by reels, which in places extend to the distance of a
cable's length, and close to their edges are irregular soundings of 5 to 9 fa-
thoms. South from the South Sister the soundings soon deepen to 10, 12,
16, and 18 or 19 fathoms. The channel between them and West St. Johns
is free from danger, with depths of 14 to 24 fathoms ; but about one-third of
a mile West-southerly from the South Sister is the eastern end of a patch,
with 1 8 ft. water over it, which thence extends one-third of a mile to the
W.N.W.

MIDDLE ISLAND, or Fulo Saharoot, 78 ft. high, bears W. by S. 3^ miles
from West St. Johns, and N.E.-easterly 4^ miles from Eaffles lighthouse.
It is a green island, with other islands to the north-westward of it. It is
surrounded by a I'eef, which, from its S.E. point, projects nearly a third of
a mile.

A Dangerous Reef of rocks lies S.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile from
the S.E. point of Middle Island. The reef is small, and always covered, ex-
cept at very low tides, some points of the rocks being then just discernible.
From it the South extreme of West St. Johns Island bears E.N.E. 3 miles,
Eaffles lighthouse S. W. by W. i W. 4| miles, and Buffalo Eock S. by E. \ E.
The chart shows no soundings on the South side of this reef, but there is said
to be deep water close to ; on the North side it is said to be a steep coral
wall, and the chart shows 8 fathoms close to this side.

Pxdo Jong, a small round islet 75 ft. high, lying half a mile N.W. of
Middle Island, open eastward of Middle Island, leads N.E. of the reef, and
the South point of West St. Johns N.E. by E. i E., or Raffles lighthouse
S. W. by W, A W., leads to the southward. The South peak of Carimon

EABBIT AND CONEY— ALLIOATOR ISLAND. 361

Island, in line with the N(jrth part of Barn Island, W. by S. I S., also leads
to the southward of it.

The North side of the channel between Barn Island and Middle Island is
bounded mostly by shoals and coral reefs, partly dry at low water. Nearly
2^ miles S.W. by W. from Middle Island is a reef, the middle part of which
is dry.

The RABBIT and CONEY are two small islets, on the North side of the
western entrance to the main channel, nearly connected with the S.E. end of
Barn Island, to the North of it, by a reef of rocks partly dry at low water.
The Coney, or southernmost, is the smallest, and distant from the point of
Barn Island rather less than one-third of a mile. The Rabbit is on with
the centre of Barn Island bearing N.W. ^ W. ; the Coney is on with it,
N.W. I N., nearly ; and these islets are in one with each other, bearing
N. by E. 5 E. A rocky spit, covered at high tide, projects nearly a cable's
length to the southward from the Coney ; consequently the islet should be
given a berth of 2 cables.

RAFFLES LIGHTHOUSE, on Coney Island, was named after Sir Stam-
ford Raffles, the founder of Singapore. It is in lat. 1° 9' 51" N., long. 103"
44' 51" E., and exhibits, at an elevation of 105 ft. above high water, a ^xed
hright light, which is visible from a ship's deck at the distance of 12 miles,
between the bearings E.S.E. (being obscured over the St. Johns Islands and
Middle Island, and its oflF-lying reef) and N.W. by W., which latter bearing
leads I mile S.W. of Sultan Shoal. It bears S.W. by VV. ^ W. 7^ miles
from the South end of West St. John's Island ; E. ^ N. nearly 5^ miles
from the North end of Tree Island Reef; S.E. ^ E. nearly 7^ miles from the
Sultan Shoal; N.W., westerly, 3 miles from Helen Mars Reef; and West,
northerly, 4^^ miles from Buffalo Ro<'k.

BARN ISLAND, or Pulo iSennang, about a mile in extent and 133 ft. high,
lies close to the N.W. of the Rabbit and Coney, and E. by N. ^ N. 5 miles
from Tree Island. It is of a square, level aspect, covered with trees, and
visible at the distance of 15 miles. Its South and. West sides are fronted by
a reef extending 2 or 3 cables from it, close to which are 9 or 1 1 fathoms,
with 18 and 19 fathoms a short distance off.

ALLIGATOR ISLAND, or Pulo Euvcaii, nearly joins the N.W. end of
Barn Island, the space between affording no passage for ships. It is about
the same size, but 52 ft. higher than Barn Island, aod of a sloping form,
the highest part being at its South end. At a quarter of a mile from its
South end are 14 and 16 fathoms, but off its West side not more than 6 to 9
fathoms will be obtained at half to two-thirds of a mile.

A mile to the northward of Alligator Island is a small island, Pulo Soo-
dong, inside which, between Middle and Freshwater Islands, are several islands,
with numerous coral reefs amongst them, the exact positions of which aro
I. A. 3 a

362 THE STEAIT OF SINGAPORE.

unknown ; these islands and dangers lie quite out of the track of shipping.
Pulo Salook, the north-westernmost of them, and also the S.W. limit of the
Sinki Channel, is described at page 359.

SULTAN SHOAL [Terumho Careemon), which forms the north-western
limit of the western entrance to Singapore Strait, is of circular form-, about
two-thirds of a cable's length in diameter, and the rocks on its shoalest part
are about 2 ft. above the sea at low-water spring tides. The ship of that
name grounded on it in 1789. Its North side is marked by a tripod beacon,
painted in red and white stripes, from which the N.W. extreme of Tree
Island Eeef bears S. i E. 5 miles ; Pulo Salook E. by S. f S. 3J miles ; and
Baffles lighthouse, just open of the West extremes of Alligator and Barn
Islands, S.E. ^ E. Tj miles. Captain Ross examined this shoal in 1829, and
reported it to be steep-to, 7 fathoms water within a boat's length of the
rocks.

Ajax Shoal, on which the steam vessel of that name touched in 1877, lies
1 mile S.E. by E. | E. from the Sultan Shoal beacon ; this shoal, composed
of coral with sharp pinnacles, is about half a cable in extent N.E. by N. and
S.W. by S., and has on its S.W. extremity a depth of 19 ft., at low water,
spring tides. A nun huoy, painted red, has been placed by the Master At-
tendant at Singapore, on the centre of Ajax Shoal ; this buoy should be
given a berth of 2 cables when passing it, on either side.

The following bearings were taken from the Growler whilst at anchor in 5
fathoms, on the shoal : — viz., Sultan Shoal beacon, N.W. by W. i W. ;
Rafflles lighthouse, S.E. \ E. ; and Tanjong Bolus, W. by N.

The line of islands and shoals which lie to the south-westward of these
Round, Long, Red, and Tree Islands, &c. which form the N.E. limit of the
strait of Durian, has been described on page 349 previously.

SOUTH SIDE of the STRAIT.— The strait between the rocky ledges
north-westward of Little Sambo and St. John's Islands (described in p. 371),
is 2^ miles wide, with very irregular soundings, varying from 15 or 16 to 40
or 50 fathoms.

Caution. — Owing to the strong tides which rush through this part of the
strait, and the rocky and uneven nature of the bottom, violent eddies and
overfalls, very alarming to strangers, are usually to be met with, more
especially on the South side of the channel, towards the Sambo Islands ; for
•which reason, as also because of the dangers and great depths of water on
that side, it is advisable to keep on the North side, near St. John's Islands,
— a custom always followed by those accustomed to the navigation of the
strait.

The Coast. — That part of the southern side of Singapore Strait between
the Sambo Islands and the north-western extreme of Boelang Island, a dis-
tance of 71 miles to the S.W. by W., is formed of numerous islands lying

PULO SENNANG- BUFFALO ROCK. 363

on eifher side of the entrance of Batu Hadji Strait, which separates the large
islands of Batt im and Boelang.

Pulo Sennaug, the outermost of the islands at the eastern side of entrance
to Batu Hadji Strait, is only about a third of a mile in extent, and bears
S.W. by W. ^ W. about H mile from the N.W. extreme of Little Sambo,
and S. by E. |^ E. 3 miles from West St. Johns. Westward of this island
there are many dangers.

Barren Island, the outer of the small islands on western side of entrance
to Batu Hadji Strait, is a mere rock or islet, and bears S.W. by W. ^ W. 2^
miles from Pulo Sennang ; S. by W. J W. 4 J miles from West St. Johns ;
and S.E. by E. ^ E. U mile from Bufialo Ptock.

Near Pulo Sennang are depths of from 7 to 12 fathoms. Barren Island
appears to be free from danger, with depths of 13 to 18 fathoms between it
and Buffalo Pock ; but, as previously remarked, vessels should avoid getting
on this side of the strait.

Buffalo Rock, lying well out towards the fairway of the strait, is of a
black colour, about the size of a long-boat, always above water, with 30 and
40 fathoms water near it to the southward, and irregular soundings of 13,
18, and 25 fathoms close to it on the N.W. side. It bears S.W. by S. 4
miles from the South extreme of West St. Johns; S.S.E. 3 miles from
Middle Island, and East-northerly from Paffles lighthouse.

Between the Buffalo Eock and the reef off the S.E. end of Middle Island,
the strait is 2| miles, the same breadth as between the rocky ledges and
West St. Johns. It is prudent, in working here, to keep nearest the North
side of the channel, making short tacks, and not to deepen above 30 or 34
fathoms towards the Buffalo Rock, and the South side of the strait.

Tides. — The flood from the straits of Malacca sets to the eastward, and the
flood from the China Sea sets to the westward, meeting between Tanjong
Bolus and Tree Island. It is high water at Rabbit Island at full and change
at II a.m., but the tide does not set to the eastward till about 1 p.m., and it
is then about half low water by the shore.

The tides set fairly through the channel about E.N.E. and W.S.W. be-
tween St. John's Islands and Raffles lighthouse, frequently very strong, with
eddies on the springs. Their velocity, when strongest, is from 4 to 4^ miles
per hour, making it unpleasant to anchor here in large ships when the
•weather is unsettled in the night, particularly if unacquainted. From Raifles
lighthouse to the western entrance of the strait the tides cannot be depended
on to set as fairly through the channel as they do to the eastward of the
lighthouse, but may be expected to draw more across the channel in a north-
easterly or opposite direction. Outside the strait between Tree Island and
Tanjong Bolus no dependence can be placed upon the set of the tides, for
they sometimes run strong down towards the straits of Durian, and at other
times to the northward towards the old strait of Singapore.

364 THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE.

The flood has been observed in both monsoons to run to tlie westward 10
or 12 hours at a time, or even 18 hours, strong and weak alternately; at
other times the flood sets only 6 hours to the westward, and the ebb the
same length of time to the eastward ; but the tides throughout Singapore
Strait are seldom very regular.

During the strength of the N.E. monsoon at neap tides, the current sets
to the westward at times for three or four days, although there is a regular
rise and fall by the shore. Stafi" Commander Richards, R.N., commanding
H.M.S. Saracen, found the rise and fall in New Harbour to be 10 feet at
springs and 7^ feet at neaps.

Temporary Anchorages. — Owing to the strong tides and ctirrents in th©
western part of Singapore Strait, sailing vessels are frequently obliged to
anchor, for which purpose the North side of the channel is much to be pre-
ferred. The most convenient spot for the purpose between St. Johns and
Raffles lighthouse, are the banks which front the Sisters and Middle Islands,
(See page 360.)

Abreast of the South end of St. Johns a ship ought not to anchor if it can
he avoided, for the water is deep, and the tides run in eddies with greater
strength than in any other part of the strait.

There appears to be fair anchorage, in 12 to 19 fathoms, a mile or two ou
either side of Bufi'alo Rock, or between it and Barren Island ; also between
it and Helen Mars Reef, as well as about a mile or so to the northward and
westward of the latter danger ; but this side of the strait is usually avoided
as much as possible even by those locally acquainted.

To the westward of Raffles lighthouse there is convenient anchorage in &
to 12 fathoms all along the North side of the strait, while to the southward
the water is deep, and the bottom rocky ; the South side of this part of the
strait is, therefore, very unsuitable for anchoring purposes, especially when
it is remembered that violent squalls are common hereabouts.

Caution. — Vessels at anchor, or coming to an anchor during the night,
should be careful to ascertain their exact position as nearly as possible, and
to have a ffood bearing of Raffles light ; they should also keep a vigilant look-
out that they do not drag their anchors, and drift into danger.

Directions. — To proceed from Singapore Roads or from the eastward,
through the western part of Singapore Strait, steer to pass the South point
of St. Johns Islands as close as the wind may permit, and then about S.W.
"by W. i W. to round the Rabbit and Coney. It is best to keep nearest the
North side of the channel in this track, to avoid the BuflFalo Rock, and the
deep water and rocky bottom towards the South shore ; but remember the
reef off the S.E. end of Middle Island. The South end of St. Johns kept
N.E. by E, I E., or Raffles lighthouse S.W. by W. h W., leads clear of this

WESTEEN ENTRANCE— DIRECTIONS. 365

reef, and either of these are safe bearings to lead along the North side of the
channel until Eaffles lighthouse is approached, which naay be rounded at the
distance of 2 or 3 cables' lengths, if the wind is northerly.

After rounding the lighthouse, steer W.N. W. to pass between Tree Island
and Sultan Shoal; the lighthouse kept between E. by S. and E.S.E. will
lead in a good fairway course, but it must not be brought at all to the
northward of East to avoid Tree Island, or to the southward of S.E. by E.
to clear the Sultan Shoal ; having passed between those dangers, a course
West or W. by N., according to the set of the tide and other circumstances,
■will lead between Little Carimon and Tanjong Bolus.

At Night. — Raffles light (page 361) kept in sight clears all dangers on the
North side of the channel, both to the eastward and westward of it.

To proceed from Little Carimon to the eastward through the western part of
Singapore Strait. — When in mid-channel between Tanjong Bolus and Little
Carimon, in 17 to 20 fathoms water, steer East or E.S.E. as the prevailing
"wind and tide require, observing to bring the North point of Little Carimon
W. ^ S., or draw gradually tlie North peak of Great Carimon in one with
the South point of Little Carimon, bearing about W. by S. J S., which will
lead about 2 miles northward of Tree Island. If the wind is southerly, bor-
row towards Tree Island to 14 fathoms, about a mile distant, but no nearer
which will favour the vessel in rounding the Rabbit and Coney.

As before stated. Raffles lighthouse bearing between E. by S. and E.S.E.,
is the fair channel course between Tree Island and Sultan Shoal, not bring-
ing the lighthouse to the northward of East to avoid Tree Island, nor to the
southward of S.E. by E. to clear the Sultan Shoal. Having passed Tree
Island, steer to round the lighthouse at from 2 cables' lengths to 1 or IJ
mile distant ; or if the wind and tides are adverse, or from other circum-
stances it be desirable to do so, anchor to the westward of Barn Island, out
of the strength of the tide. Having rounded the lighthouse, steer to pass
St. Johns Islands at a convenient distance — from 2 cables' lengths to a mile
— not bringing the lighthouse to the southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., or the
South point of St. John's to the eastward of N.E. by E. 5 E., to avoid the
danger on the North side of the channel. After rounding St. Johns, and
bound to Singapore Roads or through the eastern part of the strait, proceed
as directed hereafter.

In working through between St. John Islands and Raffles lighthouse it is
usual to keep on the North side of the channel, making short tacks if neces-
sary, as that part of the strait affords tolerably convenient anchorage alono-
the greater portion of it, and vessels are extremely liable to meet with light
baffling airs, which would render it necessary for them to anchor. It is
especially requisite to attend to this when to the eastward of Buffalo Rock
for on that part of the South side of the strait the water is deep, and the

366 SINGAPOEE.

bottom rocky and unsafe for anchoring upon, the danger being much in-
creased by rapid currents and tides, with violent eddies and overfalls.

All danger on the North side of this part of the channel will be avoided if
the South extreme of 8t. Johns Islands be not brought eastward of N.E. by
E. i E., or Eaffles Lighthouse southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., but these
bearings more particularly apply to the rock which lies S.E. by E. from
Middle Island. Vessels may, with proper precaution, stand farther over
between the Sisters and Middle Island, and bring the South end of St. Johns
as far as E. by N. Take care, however, when nearing Middle Island, n<it
to bring Pulo Jong on with the East extreme of Middle Island until the
lighthouse bears S.W. by W. ^ W., or the South end of St. Johns N.E. by
E. ^ E. When to the westward of the rock, which may be known by seeing
Piilo Jong open of the West side of the island, a vessel may stand to the
northward until the South end of St. Johns bears E.N.E., but nothing to
the eastward of that bearing. At night, Eaffles light kept in sight leads clear
of all dangers on the North side of the strait, as before stated.

The narrowest part of the channel is when Buffalo Eock bears S. by E. to
South, between it and the rock lying south-eastward of Middle Island ; and
to know in the night when the vessel is in this part of the channel, Middle
Island will in general be perceived nearer, and more distinctly than the
other islands on the North side of the channel. When approaching the
meridian of Buffalo Eock, or when Middle Island bears about N.N.W., be
careful to keep Eaffles Lighthouse to the southward of W. f S. ; on no
account must it be brought to the westward of W. ^ S. when Middle Island
bears N.N.W. When Middle Island bears N. by W., the vessel will be
westward of Buffalo Eock, and in daylight may stand farther to the south-
ward, if necessary ; but it is much safer and better to keep over towards the
Coney. If, however, a board should be made to the southward, take care to
keep clear of Helen Mars Eeef (page 350),

SINGAPORE.

SINGAPORE, properly Singhapura — i.e. Lion City, the great British em-
porium of the Indian Archipelago, was acquired by purchase in 1819; and
in 1826 was formed into one government with Penang and Malacca. It now
ranks as the fourth European city of India, being exceeded by Batavia,
which the Dutch founded just two centuries previously, in 1619 ; a century
before Calcutta was established, and 50 years before Bombay became a
British settlement.

Singapore was the first experiment in free trade. Its success is measured
by its progress. In 1819, the population of the island consisted of 150
miserable fihermen; iseven years after it amounted to 13,000; in 1850 it

SINGArOEE. 367

reached 60,000, and in 1865 it was 90,700, among whom were 58,000
Chinese, 13,500 Malays, and about 800 Europeans. In this population the
disproportion of the sexes was most startling ; to six men there was but one
woman, taking the whole inhabitants of the island ; but among the Chinese
this difference was still greater, only one woman to eighteen men. In the
census of 1871 the number of the population was returned as 88,032, but
doubts exist as to the accuracy of the returns, and the number is probably
much larger. Of the returned number, about one c^uarter were females ; of
Malays there were 19,250, and the sexes were about equal in number:
Chinese, 54,098, of whom 7,467 were females; natives of India, 11,191,
about one quarter of whom were females ; Eurasians (half-castes) number
2,164, and the females outnumber the males; the white, European and
American population, numbered 1,329. Altogether there are about fifteen
Dationalities among the people, who, preserving generally their own lan-
guages, make use of the liquid, easily acquired Malay, as a common medium
of intercommunication. In 1863 its imports reached six and a half millions
sterling, and its exports five and a half millions, together twelve millions
sterling. In 1875 the imports had decreased to four and a quarter millions,
and the exports to four millions sterling, which decrease is accounted for by
the fact that goods are now shipped direct to China and other places, instead
of being trttnshi[jped at Singapore. In 1875, 2,261 vessels arrived at the
port, with an aggregate tonnage of 1,283,786 tons, or an average of 568
tons each.

Ihe Island of Singapore is about 25 miles long, and 14 in its greatest
breadth ; area, 206 square miles, or one-fourth larger than the Isle of Wight.
It is separated from the Malay main land by the Old Strait before men-
tioned, once the great thoroughfare, now abandoned for the more open and
well beaconed passage to the southward. Except on the shore of this strait,
the British settlement extends 10 miles inland, while to the southward and
with the islands, 75 in number, the whole area of the settlement comprises
an area of 223 square miles. The island has the appearance of one con-
tinuous forest, with undulating surface, the highest hill being 519 ft. hio^h,
and nearly in the middle of the island.

It was ceded to Britain by the Sultan of Johore, on February 6th, 1819
and the city was then founded by Sir Stamford Eaffles. He was succeeded
by the late talented historian of the Indian Archipelago, Mr. John Crawfurd
r.R.G.S., in 1823, who established the present laud-tenure; he was suc-
ceeded, in 1827, by Mr. Murchison.

The following description of the town and harbour is taken, like the fore-
going portion of the work, from the China Sea Pilot.

The Town of Singapore is built on each side of the Singapore Eiver a
small stream, only navigable for boats, on the S.E. side of the island, about
4 miles northward of the South extremity of the St. John's Islands. Th*

368 SINGAPORE.

commercial part of the town is on the South side of the river, the bank on
that side being lined with quays and godowns for the landing and reception
of merchandise. The river is usually crowded with cargo boats and many
other descriptions of small craft on their way to and from the ships in the
harbour, presenting a scene of extraordinary bustle and activity. Singapore
is a free port ; there are no harbour or tonnage dues.

Fort Fullerton, a small battery, stands on the southern part of the entrance
to Singapore Eiver. It is important from being the point to which it has
been customary of late years to refer the meridian distances of this portion
of the Archipelago. The latitude and longitude of Fort Fullerton now used
is r 17' 20" N., and 103° 51' 18" E. A handsome line of godowns is erected
to the southward of the fort, upon some land reclaimed from the sea for that
purpose. These buildings are conspicuous when approached from the east-
ward ; and in 1867 an extensive system of fortifications was in progress.

The principal landing place is at the Dalhousie Pier, a structure of stone
and wood, on the northern side of the entrance to the river, projecting over
the flat which extends from the shore some distance to seaward. An obelisk
stands near the inner end of the pier, and around it axQ four red lights, which
serve to point out the position of the landing place at night. A white light
is shown on the outer end of the pier. Close to the left of the obelisk (as
viewed from seaward) are two fine buildings ; the one standing back is the
court-house, and that nearer the sea the town hall. Farther to the left is the
post-office, a very mean-looking building, and still farther to the left, on the
bank of the river, is the office of the master-attendant.

On the right of the obelisk, the esplanade, a grass enclosure surrounded
by p carriage drive, extends along the sea front for the distance of a quarter
of a mile, and the drive round it is the fashionable resort of the European
residents in the cool of the evening. Behind the esplanade are three large
buildings, the two farthest to the left are used as hotels, and the third is the
masonic hall. To the right of these buildings stands St. Andrews Church,
one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in India, built after the model of
Netley Abbey ; the church has a fine tower, surmounted by a lofty spire,
which is very conspicuous when viewed from seaward. To the right of the
church is a very large building, the Eaffl.es Institution ; extending from
which, in the same direction, are a number of handsome detached houses,
standing in gardens. Beyond this line of houses is an extensive native
town, the greater part of which is hidden by the sandy point, named Tan-
jong Rhoo.

The above is a brief description of the most prominent objects seen along
the shore of Singapore Bay, wheu viewed from the anchorage.

SINGAPORE ROADS* are on the southern side of Singapore Island, their

* The Limits of the Port of Singapore are as follow: — From an oLelit-k built
cnTanjong Cutong in a struii^ht line to Peak Island ; along the northern shore of that itland

TANJONG CATONG. 369

limit being defined by a line drawn from an obelisk on Tanjong Catong, 2^
miles E. by N. from Fort FuUerton, to Peak Island. The usual anchorage,
however, for ships taking in and discharging cargo, and which is generally
known as Singapore Harbour, is restricted to that part of the roads com-
prised within the limits defined by a line drawn from Malay Point in an
easterly direction, until it meets the line drawn between Tanjong Catong
and Peak Island, and which includes a space about one-third of the extent uf
the entire roads.

TANJONG CATONG, or Deep-water Point, forming the north-eastern
boundary of Singapore Eoads, is 3| miles W.S. W. from the small Red Clifi's.
An obelisk, which marks the harbour limit in this direction, stands about a
cable's length to the westward of the round of the point.

Sand-Banks. — Lines of fishing-stakes run out from the coast about Tan-
jong Catong, over the shallow bank extending from the coast, and close to the
ends of the stakes are 6 and 7 fathoms water, but these soundings are in a
narrow run of deep water, behind the harbour bank, the 5-fathom line at the
edge of which is about three-quarters of a mile distant from the point.

Between the deep water close to the point and the 5-fathom line outside
of it, are several patches with but 2^ and 2f fathoms water over them, and
two patches with as little as 2 fathoms. One of the latter lies S.E. by E. ^ E.
from the obelisk, distant half a mile from the shore nearest to it j and the
other S. by W. | W. nearly three-quarters of a mile from the obelisk.

These shoals will be avoided by keeping Mount Serapong Avestward of
S. W. by W. i W. until the flagstatf on Fort Canning bears W. by N. i N. ;
or by not shoaling under a depth of 6 fathoms towards them.

Tanjong Rhoo, or Sandy Point, is the extreme of the land extending If
mile West from Tanjong Catong, and formmg the northern shore of Singa-
pore Bay. It bears N.E., a little over three-quarters of a mile from the
enta-ance of Singapore River, and is separated from the western shore of the
l>fiy by a channel a quarter of a mile wide, in which there are but 3 to 7 ft.
water at low spring tides.

to its north-westernmost point, thence in a straight line to its southernmost point of Bla-
kang ilati, thence along the eastern and northern shores of that island to the north-
westernmost point thereof, thence in a straight line to a mark placed at Batu Blaayer
(Lot's Wife) on the island of Singapore, thence along the shores of the island of Singapore,
to the ohelisk at TanjoDg Catong, including the mouth of the Singapore River as far as the
eecond or Coleman's Bridge, also the mouths of the Rochore and Eallang Rivers as far as
the first bridges crossing those streams, and including the public streets, roads, or high-
wa5-s, made or to be made along the banks of these rivers to the limits specified and includ-
ing all public landing-places, stairs, piers, or jetties, made or to be made along the shores of
the island of Singapore.

I. A. 3 B

.370 SINGAPORE.

Inside Tanjong Ehoo is an extensive shallow lagoon, convenient for the
anchorage of boats and native craft, and very many such are to be seen there
at certain seasons. Some shipwrights' yards are now established at this
point, and small vessels go there to be repaired.

FORT CANNING. — Eising abruptly behind, and overlooking the town of
Singapore, is a hill, 156 ft. high, upon which formerly stood a large bunga-
low, the residence of the governor ; now, however, the crest of the hill is
covered by a large fort, which has been named Fort Canning, in honour of
the late Viceroy of India. Near the middle of the fort is a flagstaff, crossed
with two yards, which is used during the day to signal the arrival of ships.

Light. — K fixed white light is exhibited from the flagstaff on Fort Canning,
at an elevation of 226 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a bad light, but
in clear weather is said to be visible at 15 miles. It is only shown over an
arc of 90°, or between St. John's Island and Johore Shoal.

A mud flat fronts the whole shore of Singapore Bay from abreast of Tan-
jong Catong to Malay Point. In front of the esplanade it extends rather
more than a cable's length, in front of Fort Fullerton and the new godowns,
not more than half a cable, but in the bay to the southward, towards Malay
Point, its distance from the shore is nearly 2 cables.

MALAY or Malang Point, the south-western limit of Singapore Bay bears
S. W. by W. \ W. nearly 3 miles from the obelisk on Tanjong Catong, and
S. by W. f W. nearly a mile from the entrance of Singapore River. A mud
and sand flax, with several patches of rocks upon it, and which dries at two-
thirds ebb, fronts the small bay between Malay Point and Pagar Point.
That part of the bank which extends from Pagar Point, and on which the sea
wall is built, is known as Pagar Spit, and that extending from Malay Point as
Malay or Malang Spit. Shoal water, under 3 fathoms, extends some distance
outside the flat, and its edge is marked by several lines of fishing stakes.

BLAKAN MATI ISLAND lies to the southward of the southern part of
Singapore Island, from which it is separated by a channel, known as New
Harbour. The island is 2 miles long W.N W. and E.S.E., and a mile
broad at its eastern extreme, but its western end terminates in a point. It
is fringed by a reef, which from Berala Point, its north-eastern extreme, pro-
jects a quarter of a mile to the eastward ; this part of the reef is known as
Berala Spit, and from its outer part Berala Point bears W. J S., and the
hill over Pagar Point N. \ W. ; from thence it trends about S. by W. for the
eastern extreme of the island, from which it projects but a short distance.
Off the South point of the island the shore reef extends about three-quarters
of a cable's length, and about the same distance along its West side ; but a
small detached reef, named Pelawan, about 1 1 cable in extent, lies 2 cables'
lengths off the West shore of the island, nearly midway between its southern
and western extremes.

MOUNT SERAPONG, rising to the height of 302 ft. near the north-

ST. JOHN'S ISLANDS. 371

eastern extreme of Blakan Mati, is conspicuous when approaching Singapore
Eoads from the eastwardj.and will assist a stranger in making out the land,
St. Johns Islands being seen to the southward of it. There are several other
hills of less height than Serapong upon Blakan Mati, but they are more ob-
servable in coming from the westward, when they wiU be seen under the
higher land of Singapore Island.

Over Rimau Point, the West extreme of the island, is Mount Siloso, 170 ft.
high, to the eastward of which, and South from Berdaun Rock, is Mount
Imheah, 202 ft. high. South-eastward from Imbeah is a hill, 168 ft. high,
westward of which is another, 160 ft. high.

Buran Darat is the name of an extensive coral reef, which uncovers at
two-thirds ebb, and fronts the eastern shore of Blakan Mati Island. It is
about a mile long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., a quarter of a mile broad at
the northern end, and terminates in a point at its southern extreme. There
is a detached patch, with 1^ fathom on it, lying about a cable's length to the
northward of the North edge of the reef. The north-eastern extreme of
Buran Darat is marked by a white beacon, from which Berala Point bears
W. i N., distant nearly two-thirds of a mile, and the hill over Pagar Point
N.N.W., westerly.

ST. JOHN'S ISLANDS, three in number, form the south-western limit of
Singapore Roads. They lie about N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. from each
other, extending nearly a mile in those directions.

Peak Island, or Pido TamlaTcool, the north-easternmost of the three, is a
mere islet, rising to a peaked hill 101 ft. high. From its western part a
low, narrow, sandy neck extends, on the extreme of which is a small mound,
which at some little distance appears like a separate islet. The island is en-
compassed by a reef.

The Middle Island, known as East St. John^s Island, is about half a mile
long N. W. and S.E., a quarter of a mile broad, 189 ft. high, and sloping in
form. It is also surrounded by a reef.

West St. John's Island is rather larger than East St. John's, but not quite
80 high. Its N.E. extreme is joined to the main body by a narrow neck of
lower land, which at a little distance gives it the appearance of a separate
islet. Between these islands are narrow channels about half a cable wide,
with depths of 6 to 16 fathoms in them.

In the space between Blakan Mati and St. John's Island are a few small
islands and several extensive reefs. Between the latter are channels of deep
water, but they are so narrow and intricate as to be useless for the purposes
of ordinary navigation.

Pulo Sikookur, about half a mile long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., but
very narrow, lies nearly mid-channel between West St. John's and Blakan
Mati Islands. Puh Ringat is the easternmost of two small islets which lie
cluse to the north-eastward of St. John's Islands.

372 SINGAPORE.

To avf)id all the dangers between St. John's Islands and Malay Voint^
Peak Island must not be brought to the eastward pf S. ^ E., when Mount
Serapong bears to the northward of W.N.W. When Mount Serapong is to
the westward of W.N. W., a vessel may stand on until the western extreme
of Wpst St. John's Island bears S. by W. ^ W., but no farther.

Outer Bank and Shoal.— A mud-bank, with general depths of 10 to 4
fathoms over it, extends across the outer roads of Singapore, from the St.
John's Islands to abreast of Tanjong Catong, where it takes the direction of,
and fronts, the coast some distance to the north-eastward.

The least water on this bank is about the middle of it, and it is this part
which is generally known as the Outer shoal, which is 1^ mile long N.E.
and S.W., a cable broad at its northern, and nearly half a mile broad at it»
southern end, having depths of 4 to 4| fathoms over the greater part of it,
but some patches of 3 J and 3^ fathoms near its southern extreme. This hank
is shoaling rapidly. From the N.E. end of the shoal, in 5 fathoms, the
obelisk on Tanjong Catong bears N. f E., Fort Canning flagstaff is just to
the northward of the obelisk on the Dalhousie Pier N.W. by W. nearly,
and Peak Island bears S.S.W. 1^ W. ; from its south-eastern extreme Fort
Canning flagstaff bears N.N.W. I W., and Peak Island S. by W. i W. ;
and from its south-western extreme the same flagstaff bears N.N.W., and
Peak Island S. \ W.

Fort Canning flagstaff open northward of Dalhousie Pier, bearing N.W.
by W. \ W., will lead clear of the North end of the outer shoal ; Peak
Island S.W. by S. will lead eastward of it ; and the southern extreme of
Blakan Mati Island S.W. by W. i W. will lead westward.

North-eastward of the Outer shoal the bank is not quite three-quarters of
a mile broad, with depths of 6, 7, and 8 fathoms over it. South-westward
of the Outer shoal the soundings on the bank are not so regular, and a hole
of deep water, half a mile long, runs into the bank in a north-westerly
direction about three-quarters of a mile from St. John's Islands.

A small patch, about 2 cables in extent, having 4 fathoms least water
over it, lies about a third of a mile south-westward of the Outer shoal, and
from its centre Fort Canning flagstaff bears N.N.W.-northerly, Peak Island
S. I W., and Mount Serapong W. by N. \ N. Mount Serapong bearing
W. I N, leads between this patch and the Outer shoal, and bearing W. by
N. 1^ N. leads to the southward of it.

Peak Island bearing S.W. leads just outside the 10-fathom line at the
edge of the bank in from 11 to 13 or 14 fathoms; the soundings quickly
deepening to 17, 20, 25, and 30 fathoms south-eastward from the middle
and southern part; and to 17 and 20 fathoms south-eastward from the
northern part of the bank.

Inside the Outer Shoal are 10 to 12 fathoms, mud, decreasing gradually to
7 or 6 fathoms, but shoaling suddenly from a depth of 5 to 4 or 3 fathoms,

DIRECTIONS. 373

when Fort Canning flagstaff bears to the northward of N.W. by W. i W.,
demanding caution in large ships anxious to get as close in as possible.
With Fort Canning flagstaff to the westward of N.W. by W. ^ W., the
soundings decrease much more regularly. The 2-fathom line extends nearly
half a mile south-eastward of Fort Fullerton, and nearly three-quarters of a
mile from the depth of Singapore Bay. The extremity of the north-eastern
line of fishing-stakes marks the 3-fathom edge of the shore bank, eastward
of Malay Point.

Near the north-eastern extreme of the Duran Darat Eeef is a run of deep
water — 12 to 23 fathoms — which terminates about half a mile E.S.E. from
Malay Spit.

Anchorage. — The trade of Singapore is now so considerable that a large
number of vessels are always to be found anchored in that part of the roads
called the harbour, and small vessels may run in, guided by their soundings,
and anchor where they can find a convenient berth.

Vessels of large draught must be more cautious, on account of the sound-
ings decreasing suddenly from 5 to 4 and 3 fathoms. Grood, safe anchorage,
in from 7 to 10 fathoms water, will be found with the flagstaff on Fort Can-
ning between the bearings of W. by N. ^ N. and N.W. ^ N., and with
Mount Serapong bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., or the left extreme of Blakan
Mati S.W. i W. ; the latter bearing places a ship a little further in, and is
useful when the flagstaff is to the westward of N.W. by W.

Directions. — Small vessels bound to Singapore Roads from the eastward
will have no difficulty, as they have merely to proceed to a convenient an-
chorage. Those drawing between 12 and 16 ft. may pass inside the shoals
off Tanjong Catong, by keeping in the run of deep water, pretty close to the
end of the lines of fishing stakes which extend out from the point ; but
vessels of larger draught had better keep outside those shoals.

It is often advisable for vessels, and the usual custom for those belonging
to the port, to keep the Singapore shore well aboard when proceeding to the
anchorage from the eastward, especially when the wind is off the land and
the tide setting to the westward. It will then, however, be very necessary
to be guarded as Tanjong Catong is approached, and vessels of large draught
must be very careful not to bring Mount Serapong (on Blakan Mati Island),
to the southward of S.W. by W. ^ W., until the flagstaff on Fort Canning
bears W. by N. ^ N., or to avoid getting under a depth of 6 fathoms towards
the Tanjong Catong shoals.

A vessel of large draught wiU pass north-eastward of the Outer shoal, and
not have less than 5 fathoms water, by keeping the flagstaff between the
bearings of W. by N, | N. and N.W. by W., and she should be prepared to
anchor direcfhj ^lonnt Serapong bears S.W. by W. i W., or the left extreme
of Blakan Mati S.W. -^ W., inside of which vessels of heavy draught should

374 SINGArOEE.

not go; but those drawing not more than 18 or 20 ft. may go a cablets
length or so farther in, and have 4 or 5 fathoms.

When bound to the roads from the westward, and having rounded Peak
Island at the distance of about 2 cables' lengths, steer N. by E. or N.N.E.,
according to the tide, across the Outer shoal for the anchorage. A large
ship, wishing to avoid the Oouter shoal, may steer to the northward with
Peak Island bearing between South and 8. by E., — but nothing to the east-
ward of the latter bearing, — until the left extreme of Blakan Mati bears
S.W. by W. i W., which bearing kept on will lead north-westward of the
Outer shoal, and then steer as convenient for the anchorage.

In working towards the dangers between St. Johns Islands and Blakan.
Mati, care must be observed not to bring Peak Island East of S. ^ E. while
Mount Serapong is North of W.N.W. ; but when Mount Serapong is West
of W N.W. a vessel may stand on until the western extreme of West St.
Johns Island bears S. by W. ^ W. The shoalest spots on the Outer shoal
will be avoided by not bringing Peak Island West of South, after the South
extreme of Blakan Mati bears W. by S. The fishing stakes will give warn-
ing when a vessel is standing towards the Pagar and Malay spits. The
South extreme of Blakan Mati, if not brought West of S.W. by W. a W.,
will lead clear of the inner side of the Outer shoal ; and large ships, not
wishing to stand over this shoal when outside of it, should not bring Peak
Island South of S.W. by S.

SINGAPOEE NEW HAEBOUR.

NEW HARBOUR, between Singapore and Blakan Mati Islands, is about
2f miles long, in a general direction East and West, and not more than l^
cable broad in places. The eastern entrance is bounded on the North by
the Malay and Pagar spits, and on the South by Buran Darat Eeef, and the
reefs surrounding the eastern sides of Blakan Mati and Ayer Brani Islands.

As an anchorage New Harbour is but a very indifferent one indeed, for
the breadth of the navigable channel is but from 100 to 200 yards, the bottom
is rocky and foul, and affords but bad holding ground, whilst the tides rush
through it with great velocity ; there is, from these circumstances, great risk
of vessels dragging their anchors and going ashore, especially during the
violent squalls which are common in this part of the world.

Notwithstanding these serious drawbacks, New Harbour has grown into
a place of considerable importance, for it possesses facilities for running out
jetties and making docks, which render it of the highest possible value to a
large shipping port like Singapore, situate in the very centre of eastern com-
merce. The Peninsular and Oriental Company, together with other steam
proprietors and merchants, have erected extensive coal stores, wharves, and
jetties, the latter allowing of the largest steamers being lashed alongside in

NEW HARBOUE. 375

perfect security. It is the place of arrival and departure of the mail
steamers, and all other steamers, no matter how large, proceed here to coal.
There are capacious dry docks, with workshops, and all needful appliances
for repairing ships.

The whole of the above establishments are situated on the North or
Singapore side of New Harbour, but the English and French Governments
have coal wharves and jetties on Pulo Ayer Brani, an island lying in the
middle of the eastern entrance to the harbour, and dividing it into two
channels.

Both sides of the harbour are fringed with reefs which dry at low water,
but close to their edges are depths of 3^ to 4J fathoms, increasing quickly to
5 and 6 fathoms, and to this circumstance New Harbour owes its impor-
tance. The deep water at the edges of the reefs allowing the largest vessels
to come alongside, it is but a simple matter to run out jetties to secure the
vessel to. These jetties, of course, greatly facilitate the coaling of steamers
and landing of cargo, which, at the anchorage in the roads, can only be done
by means of boats.

The entranse to New Harbour between Pagar Spit and Ayer Brani Island
is divided into three channels, by the Timbaga Eocks and Brani Shoals,
which are marked by buoys and beacons, as hereafter described. The chan-
nel between Pagar Spit and Timbaga Eocks is named the North Channel ;
that between Timbaga Eocks and Brani Shoals the Middle Channel ; and that
between Brani Shoals and Ayer Brani Island the Sotcth Channel.

NORTH SIDE of NEW KARBOVR.— Pagar Spit, which forms the north-
eastern limit of New Harbour, extends about S.S.E. ^ E. a third of a mile
from Pagar Point, and its extreme is marked by a red beacon, and there is
another at a cable's length to the north-westward of it. Between these
beacons is the head of the sea wall, which is built on Pagar Spit, and off it
is moored a red nun hauling off buoy, in 4 fathoms water S. by E., 150 yards
from the end of Pagar sea wall. From the first beacon the edge of the reef
trends in a north-westerly direction for rather more than half a mile. The
edge of this latter part of the reef is marked by two Jlxed white beacons, and
close to it are depths of 3^ to 5 fathoms. The edge then trends about S.W.
by W., and for a distance of nearly a quarter of a mile is lined with a row
of jetties, with coal stores and godowns behind them. At a cable's length
farther to the S.W., on the other side of a shoal bight named Blangah Bay,
is St. James's Hill, 70 ft. high, having a house and some trees on its summit
and which is a beautiful feature in the delightful scenery of this harbour.
It juts out from the main — to which it is connected merely by a low, narrow
neck — close to the edge of the reef, which is there marked by a red beacon.
Mooring buoys, painted red, are placed off the jetties, to assist in securing
the steamers when coaling.

From St. James's Hill the edge of the reef takes a westerly direction and

3-^6 SINGAPORE.

at a cable's length from the hill, on the other side of a shoal bight, named
Sibet Bay, commence the jetties of the Peninsular and Oriental Company,
with extensive cual stores and godowns behind them. The whole of these
buildings are on ground that was once a small island, but which is now
connected to the main island of Singapore by a roadway. The entire
frontage of the jetties is about 1^ cable in extent. A red heacon marks the
edge of reef between St. James Hill and the jetties, and at either end of the
jetties is a dolphin to secure vessels to, with two mooring buoys off in the
stream for the same purpose.

Proni the western end of these jetties, the edge of the reef takes a
W. by N. direction for 3J cables' lengths, a red heacon marking it about
halfway ; it then turns sharply to the N.W., and at about the distance of 1^
cable is the dry dock and works previously alluded to. From the dock the
reef curves round to the westward, forming Chermin Bay ; it then takes a
S.W. direction for about IJ cable, when it again curves to the westward,
and then to the southward, forming another small bay, and finally passes
about a quarter of a cable's length round Lot's Wife, at the north-western
limit of the harbour.

Hantu, the small round island lying in front of Chermin Bay, is nearly
1^ cable in diameter, 96 ft. high, and covered with trees. Its southern side,
being nearly in the same line as the Peninsular and Oriental jetties and
Lot's Wife, forms part of the northern side of the main channel of the har-
bour. A reef surrounds the East, South, and West sides of the island, the
edge of which, on the South side, is marked by a white heacon. The N.E.
side, opposite the dry rock, is free from reefs, with 3 fathoms water close to.
On the East side of the island is a ship-yard, with a patent slip for vessels
under 200 tons.

EEELAYEE POINT, the north-western limit of New Harbour, mentioned
previously, is formed of cliffs of moderate elevation, and projects in a S.S.E.
direction from the low mangrove behind it to a rather sharp point. From
this point the coast trends in a north-westerly direction, and is fringed with
a white beach named Pasir Panjang, or long beach, upon which, at a cable's
length from Berlayer Point, stands a board, denoting the harbour limit in
this direction.

Lot's Wife is a rock about 6 ft. above high water, lying immediately off
the pitch of Berlayer Point, about a third of a cable's length inside the edge
of the shore reef, which is here steep-to. This rock was formerly much
higher, and had the appearance of a pillar, hence its name.

Berlayer Rock, with but U fathom water over it, lies S.W., rather more
than half a cable's length from Perlayer Point. H.M.S. Charyhdis touched
upon this rock ; it is now marked by a heacon.

A Patch, having but 3J fathoms water over it, lies West-southerly, a
quarter of a mile from Berlayer Point. It is the shoalest part of a bank

MOUNT FABER— AYER BRANI ISLAND. 377

over the greater part of which are 4 and 5 fathoms water, with 7 and 8
fathoms close to its outer edge, and 6 fathoms between it and the shore reef
fronting Pasir Panjang beach.

To clear this patch, and also the Berlayer Rock, keep Tereh Point, a con-
spicuous red bluff on Ayer Brani Island, well open of the Peninsular and
Oriental Company's jetties.

MOUNT FABER is the name of a conspicuous range of hills which rise
bold up on the northern shore, about the middle part of New Harbour.
The direction of the range is about N.W. and S.E., the highest point, 357
feet, being towards its N.W. end. Near the middle of the range is a flag-
staff, which, like that upon Fort Canning Hill, is crossed by two yards, used
for signalling the arrival of ships from the westward, and repeating the
signals made from Fort Canning. The height of the range where the flag-
staff stands is 303 ft., exactly the same height as Mount Serapong on the
opposite side of New Harbour.

Eastward of Mount Faber, behind the wharves and jetties, are several
small hills from 100 to 132 ft. high.

AYER BRANI ISLAND, commonly known as Pulo Brani, lies inside the
eastern entrance to New Harbour. It is nearly two-thirds of a mile long,
N.W. and S.E., and the same extent East and West ; its greatest length is
on its north-eastern side, facing Singapore roads, and vipon this part are
three hills, the middle one, which is the highest, being 168 ft. above the sea.
Teregeh Point, the S.E. extreme, and Tereh Point, the North extreme of the
island, are both formed by cliffs ; those forming Tereh Point are of a red
colour, and present a bold, red bluff, which is very conspicuous when viewed
from either entrance of the harbour.

This island, like Blakan Mati, is encircled by a coral reef with occasional
patches of sand upon it, which uncovers at two-thirds ebb. From Teregeh
Point the reef projects about half a cable's length to the southward, and
more than 2 cables' lengths eastward, the extreme of the latter part being
known as Teregeh Spit, and marked by a white beacon. From this spit the
reef curves round gradually, passing about a cable's length fi-om Silingsing
Point, the middle point of the island ; it then closes the island until at Tereh
Point it is distant only about 20 or 30 yards. From Tereh Point it curves
slightly in towards Saga Bay, and then runs pretty straight about W.S.W.,
and forms a spit, the outer part of which is more than IJ cable's length
westward of Risim Point, the West extreme of the island.

Buoys. — Two black nun buoys were placed to mark Brani Reef in 1876,
one in 3 fathoms, on the S.E. end of the reef, with Teregeh Spit beacon
bearing S.W. by W., distant \\ cable; and the other on the edge of the
Brani Reef, off Brani Bay, in 5 fathoms, with the red beacon on the North
shore bearing N. f W. distant nearly 3 cables.

I. A. 3 c

378 SINGAPOEE.

The N.W. side of Ayer Brani, between Tereh and Risim points, is the
most important part of the island. Between these points is Saga Bay, dry
at low water, which oflfers great facilities for the construction of dry docks.
Some years ago a dry dock was commenced by a Mr. Clunis, who had
early perceived the advantages possessed by this island for such enterprises.
He had made considerable progress with his work when he was stopped by
the Government, who took possession of the property, owing to Mr. Clunis
having failed to possess himself of the proper legal grant of the land. The
Government has since built a temporary jetty and coal stores close to the
dock, at the north-eastern part of Saga Bay, but with the dock itself nothing
has been done. These coal stores and jetty are at present in a dilapidated
state, but they are about to be replaced by permament structures. Just to
the north-eastward of Eisim Point the French Government has erected some
good coal stores and run out a convenient jetty, off which mooring buoys are
placed to secure the vessel to.

SINKI STRAIT is the channel between Ayer Brani and Blakan Mati
To render it navigable, beacons are placed on the edges of the reefs
bounding it ; even now it is hardly safe for sailing vessels, owing to the
uncertainty of the direction of the gusts of wind caused by the adjacent
high land.

SILUGTJ ISLAND lies at the western entrance of Sinki Strait, about a
third of a mile West from the extreme of the spit projecting from Eisim
Point, and fronts a shallow bight, dry at low water, named Imbeah Bay.
It is a remarkable little island, almost circular in shape, and moderately
elevated, with a small bungalow on its summit. The shore reef projects
from the coast a short distance outside this island ; close to it are 3i to 5
fathoms.

On a projecting point of Blakan Mati, a short distance to the south-east-
ward of Silugu, is a jetty for heaving down ships.

BERDAUN ROCK is a small patch of reef above water, grown over by
mangrove trees, distant about IJ cable westward of Silugu Island, and half
a cable from the Blakan Mati shore. A reef, dry at low water, extends about
two-thirds of a cable westward, and about a third of a cable northward and
eastward from it.

RIMAU POINT, the N.W. extreme of Blakan Mati, and the S.W. limit
of New Harbour, is formed of cliffs with patches of shelving rocks project-
ino- from their bases. The shore reef extends only a short distance from the
North and West sides of the point, and close to it are 3| and 4 fathoms,
excepting in a W.N.W. direction from the West extreme of the point, where
a sort of narrow tongue with but Ig fathom water projects to a distance of
half a cable's length.

Brani Shoals lie at the eastern entrance of New Harbour, between Pagar
Point and Ayer Brani Island. They extend, under a depth of 3 fathoms,

NEW HAEBOUR. 079

about half a mile N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and from their S.E. ex-
treme Teregeh Point bears S.W. by W., and Pagar Point N. J W. ; from
their N.W. extreme the eastern part of Teregeh Point bears S. f E., and
Pagar Point N.E. by E. ^ E. The least water upon these shoals is 1^
fathom, this part being near their centre, and in length it is about 2
cables, and from a few yards to half a cable wide. The channel on their
eastern side is marked by three white buoys, one near their S.E. extreme,
one near their middle, and the other half a cable's length inside their N.W.
end. A white buoy has also been placed on the S.W. edge of the shoal in
3 fathoms, with the end of Pagar sea wall bearing E.N.E., distant 4 cables.

The soundings decrease gradually towards the shoals, and if the lead be
properly attended to, it will show when a vessel is nearing them. The
channel between them and Blakan Mati is about a cable wide, with depths
in it of 3 to 10 fathoms.

The Timbaga Rocks, dry at low water springs, lie between Pagar Point
and the shoalest part of the Brani Shoals ; they are about half a cable long
N.W. by W. i W. and S.E. by E. i E., but only a few yards broad. Two
red beacons mark these rocks, one on either extreme.

The Timbaga Shoal, about half a cable in extent, and with only 1 J fathom
least water over it, lies about a cable's length north-westward of the Timbaga
Rocks, and its north-western end is marked by a red buoy.

Maeander Shoal, about a cable in extent, East and West, with 6 to 16 ft.
water over it, lies on the South side of the main channel of New Harbour,
about 1| cable South of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's works, and
a cable to the N.W. of the extreme of the spit extending from Risim Point.
The shoal is marked by two red huoys, one near its S.E., and the other near
its N.W. end ; around it, and in the channel between it, and Risim Spit, the
depths are 3J to 4i- fathoms.

A mooring buoy, for the use of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's
steamers, is placed 110 yards to the northward of the eastern extreme of this
shoal.

Keppel Rock, with 15 ft. water over it, lies W.S.W., a cable's length
from the western extreme of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's works.
Close around the rock are soundings of 5 and 6 fathoms, and a buoy is placed
near its eastern side. The South extreme of Mount St. James on with the
eastern extreme of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties leads
southward of the rock.

Anchorage. — The general depths in New, Harbour are 6, 7, or 8 fathoms,
but the bottom is foul and rocky, and very indifferent holding ground. Staff
Commander Richards^ R.N., who surveyed this harbour in H.M.S. Saracen,
which vessel remained at anchor there for three months, I'emarks : — " The
holding ground is bad, and great care is necessary to prevent fouling the

380 • SINGAPOEE.

anchors ; vessels remaining more than a day should moor." The best an-
chorage is considered to be off the French Naval Coal Stores.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Peninsular and Oriental
Company's Wharf, at O*" 45". Springs rise 10 ft., neaps 7J ft. The ordinary
ratp of the tide at springs is 2\ knots, but it is much influenced by the pre-
vailing monsoon, and often runs 4 knots at the springs. During the N.E.
monsoon the stream sets to the westward 1 8 hours in the 24 hours during
spring tides, and almost continuously during neaps.

Directions. — Vessels proceeding from Singapore Eoads into New Harbour
should steer ahout S.W., according to their draught, not approaching Malang
or Malay Point nearer than a mile, nor hauling to the westward until Mount
Faber flagstaff is in line with the eastern extreme of the landing jetties, which
clears the shoal spit off Malay and Pagar Points. In rounding these points,
the fishing stakes furnish a ready guide to vessels, the outer ends of the
longest lines of stakes having 3 fathoms water close to them, increasing at a
short distance to 5 and 7 fathoms. Having rounded Malay and Pagar Points^
steer to the westward until the two red beacons on the Timbaga Rocks are in
line, bearing N.W. by W. \ W., and observing that Teregeh Point, the
south-eastern extreme of Ayer Brani Island, must not be brought to the
"westward of W. ^ S., which clears Berala Spit and the northern part of the
Buran Darat, and remembering that the north-eastern extreme of the latter
is marked by a white beacon,*

To proceed through North Channel, north-eastward of the Timbaga Eocks,
steer ahout N.W., and passing about half a cable's length westward of the
outer or south-easternmost of the two red beacons which mark Pagar Spit,,
open the Timbaga Eock beacons on the port bow, and pass in mid-channel
between those beacons and the inner or north-western beacon of Pagar Spit.
Continue on a N.W. by W. course, according to circumstances, leaving th&
red buoy on the Timbaga Shoal about half a cable's length on the port hand,
and edging to the westward as convenient when Pulo Silugu, a small round
island, with a bungalow on its summit, is seen just open of the red cliffs of
Tereh Point, which mark clears the N. W. extremes of the Timbaga and the
Brani Shoals.

It should be remembered, when passing between the north-western ex-
tremes of the shoals just mentioned and the coral bank which extends \^
cables' lengths from the shore of Singapore Island, and which uncovers at
two-thirds ebb, that the edge of the latter is marked by two fixed white
beacons, one North of the red buoy on the Timbaga Shoal, and the other

* Staff-Commander Richards observes, that owing to the strong tides and to the hard
hottom, the floating beacons frequently break adrift, so that no dependence can be placed
upon them ; he recommends strangers to take a pilot.

NEW HAEBOUE— DIRECTIONS. 881

about midway between the ivhite beacon just mentioned and the extremes of
jetties. Close to these beacons are 3 and 4 fathoms water.

To proceed by the Middle Channel to the south-westward of the Timbaga
Eocks, after having rounded Malay and Pagar Points, and brought the bea-
cons on the rocks in line, steer about N.W. by W., opening the beacons on
the starboard bow, and pass about half a cable's length to the westward of
both of them, and also of the red buoy on the Timbaga Shoal, about midway
between the latter and the white buoy on the N.E. extreme of the Brani
Shoals, in depths of 7 to 4J fathoms, deepening to 6 and 7 fathoms as Pulo
Silugu comes open of the red cliffs of Tereh Point ; when steer West and
W.S. W., to pass mid-channel between the jetties and Tereh Point, leaving
the red beacon and mooring buoys on the starboard hand.

The best anchorage is abreast of the French Naval Coal Stores ; but if
wishing to proceed farther to the westward, or through the harbour to the
■westward, a vessel may pass on either side of the eastern of the two mooring
buoys off the Peninsular and Oriental Company's Wharf, but it is better to
pass it on the South side, pretty close-to, giving a good berth to the buoys
on the Mseander Shoal, which will then be on the port side. Keppel Eock
■will be avoided if the South extreme of St. James's Mount is not shut in
behind the East extreme of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's jetties.

Having passed between the Mseander Shoal and Keppel Eock, a vessel
may anchor where convenient, as nearly in mid-channel as possible. To
proceed from thence through New Harbour to the westward, it will be
merely necessary to steer about W. by S., and taking care not to get too
close over towards the Berdaun Eock, keeping as nearly in mid-channel as
possible, and so pass out of the harbour. The conspicuous red bluff forming
Tereh Point, if kept well open of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's
Works, will lead out clear of the reef extending from the South end of
Hantu, on which there is a red beacon, aad also of the Berlayer Eock and
19-ft. patch just outside the harbour.

SINGAPOEE STEAIT ; EASTEEN PAET.

The SOUTH-EAST COAST of SINGAPORE ISLAND, from Tanjong Catong,
which forms the north eastern limit of Singapore Eoads or Harbour to
Changhi Point, takes a direction first to E. N.E. 5 miles, and then N.E. by N.
SJ miles. A slight indentation in the coast line about 3 miles S.W. by S.
from Changhi Point, is known as Tulloh Mati Ikan (Dead Fish Bay), just to
the southward of which, "where the shore begins to round away to the west-
ward, are Tanjong and TuUoh Buddoh.

Red Cliffs.— The South and S.E. coasts of Singapore are level and woody.

382 SINGAPOEE STRAIT; EASTERN PART.

The most conspicuous objects are the Large Red Cliff, or Tannah Merab
Besar, about S.W. ^ S. H mile from Changhi Point; and the Small Red
Cliff, or Tannah Merah Ketchil, in a small bight in the land, just to the
south-westward of Tulloh Buddoh.

A Shoal Bank fronts the whole of this part of the coast, extending to a
distance of more than half a mile in places. The soundings decrease toward*
it with tolerable regularity, but large ships should not near it under a depth
of 10 fathoms.

CHANGHI POINT, the N.E. extreme of Singapore Island, forms the
S.E. limit of the Old Strait of Singapore. It is low land, with a white sandy
beach, and bears about W. by N. nearly 6 miles from Johore Point. A shoal
bank extends about a cable's length from the point, close to which are depths
of 6 fathoms.

RED CLIFF BANK is an extensive flat of mud and sand, with some
patches of rock and coral upon it, extending from the eastern part of Sin-
gapore Island, between Changhi Point and Tanjong Buddoh. The north-
eastern edge of the bank projects about S.E. ^ E. nearly 4 miles from
Changhi Point, its extreme forming a sort of horn or spit. From Tanjong
Buddoh the bank projects in an easterly discretion towards the Johore Shoal,
which may be considered the outer horn or spit of the bank. These two
horns thus projecting from the main part of the bank form a sort of basin
between them, in which are depths of 7 to 12 fathoms.

JOHOEE SHOAL, or Allang Ban, fronts the entrance of the Old Strait
of Singapore, and may be considered as the horn or spit of the outer part
of the bank extending about 6 miles eastward from the Red Cliffs at the East
end of Singapore Island. The shoal is about 2 miles long East and West,
nearly a quarter of a mile broad, and is composed of hard sand, having 1 J
fathom on its shoalest part at low water, 3 and o\ fathoms on its South
extreme, and 12 to 15 fathoms very near to it, on the South, East and S.W.
sides.

South Romania Island open of South Point leads clear to the southward of
this shoal ; and when coming from the eastward it may also be avoided by
not approaching the North shore under a depth of 17 fathoms after Johore
Hill bears North, or Barbukit Hill N.E. f E. Coming from the westward,
St. John's Island should not be brought to the southward of W.S.W., after
Little Johore Hill bears N. by E., or Johore Hill N.E. by N., nor the shoal
neared under a depth of 17 fathoms until Johore Hill bears North.

OLD STRAIT of SINGAPORE, the channel between the northern shores
of Singapore Island and the Malay Peninsula, was formerly the passage by
which all vessels proceeded between India and China, when the strait at
present in use was not known to be navigable. Its western entrance has
very much filled up ; formerly it had 3 3 fathoms in it at the least water, but

TIKONG BESAE AND TIKONG KETCHIL. 383

now a bar of sand, with but 2 fathoms water on it, stretches across from
Tanjong Gul to Tanjong Bolus.

No vessels now proceed through this strait, but they occasionally enter by
the eastern or Johore Channel to load granite at Pulo TJbin, or to load tim-
ber at a small town, about halfway through the strait, close to Tanjong
Putri in Johore, and which the present Tumongong is striving to bring into
importance, having erected some extensive saw mills there, for the purpose
of cutting up the timber as it is brought from the adjacent forests. But
these vessels invariably enter and leave by the eastern channel.

TIKONG BESAE, and TIKONG KETCHIL are the two islands lying north-
westward of Johore Point, at the entrance of the Johore Eiver, dividing that
stream into two branches. Tikoyig Besar, as its name implies, is the larger
island of the two, being in extent 3| miles East and West, and 2\ miles
North and South. Tikong Ketchil, or Little Tikong, lying close to the West
side of the larger island, is in shape nearly round, its diameter being about
two-thirds of a mile. There is a small islet, named Pulo Sijonkan, lying close
to the S.E. side of Tikong Besar ; and another, named Pulo Sijahat, at three-
quarters of a mile to the southward of Tikong Ketchil.

Kapala Rocks appear to be three rocky heads awash, the outer one lying
S. by E» f E. rather more than 1^ mile from the South point of Tikong Ket-
chil, 1,5 mile W. by S. J S. from the South point of Tikong Besar, and 4
miles W. by-N. ^ N. from Johore Point.

Tikong Bank is the extensive shoal bank which surrounds both the Tikong
Islands, and also projects outside the islets and rocks just mentioned. Its
edge is distant from Pulo Sijonkan, in the direction of Johore Point, about
1^ mile ; and from thence takes a N.N.E. direction, passing about a quarter
of a mile outside the East end of Tikong Besar. Southward of Pulo Sijon-
kan the bank extends farthest, its edge in this direction being distant nearly
1 1 mile from the islet.

The eastern side of this bank is rather steep, and must be approached with
caution ; on the South side tlie depths decrease more regularly, and it may be
approached with proper attention in that direction by the lead.

JOHORE RIVER,— Kwala or Qualla Johore, or mouth of the Johore
Eiver, is bounded on the East side by the bank surrounding the South and
West sides, and extending to the northward of Pulo Tikong ; and on the
West side by Eed Cliff Bank, by the reef which projects eastward from Pulo
TJbin, and by Tanjong Kopo and the coast to the northward of it.

The old town of Johore, once a place of considerably trade, now consists
of some wretched huts, built with bamboo and mud, where good water may
be procured, but nothing else. It stands about 10 miles up the river, which
is navigable for ships the whole distance. It is not at all probable that
European vessels will have to proceed to Johore for several years to come
yet, although it is quite possible that the energy of the present Tumongong

384 SINGAPOEE STEAIT ; EASTERN PART.

(the sovereign of Johore), may, in the course of time, again develop sotQ«
trade there.

JOHORE POINT is a bluff promontory, forming the eastern side of the
entrance of Johore River and of the Old Strait of Singapore. The edge of
the shore bank and the Malang Berdaun Rocks extend nearly three-quarters
of a mile to the southward of Johore Point.

JOHORE HILL, or Maru Bukit, 660 ft. high, is of a regular, oblong,
sloping form, and covered with trees. Standing but a very short distance
inland from Johore Point, it is one of the most conspicuous objects in, and
serves as a useful landmark for navigating, the Strait of Singapore.

Little Johore Hill, 749 ft. high, rises N. by W. | W. 5^ miles from Jo-
hore Hill. Although higher, this hill is not so extensive as Johore Hill, but
it is also useful as a landmark.

GALDER HARBOUR is the name given to the entrance of one branch of
the Johore Eiver. It lies just round Johore Point, bounded on one side by
the bank fronting the coast to the north-westward of Johore Hill, and on
the other by the extensive bank which projects from Pulo Tikon Besar. The
breadth of the harbour is three-quarters of a mile, with anchorage in 5^ to
9 fathoms,

Tanjong Stapah, about S.E. by E. J E. 3^ miles from Johore Point, is a
good mark when kept in line with South Point, from which it bears West-
northerly, distant 3f miles, to keep vessels well clear to the southward of all
the dangers near the Romania Islands. This point appears to be pretty
bold close-to ; but vessels are recommended to give it a berth of at least
half a mile.

A patch of dry bank, with 5 and 6 fathoms water close-to, lies about three-
quarters of a mile "W. by N. from Tanjong Stapah. It seems, however, to
be but part of a shoal bank which fronts the coast to the distance of a mile,
between Tanjong Stapah and Johore Point.

The Malang Berdaun are a rocky cluster, some above and others below
water, the outer rocks of which lie South nearly three-quarters of a mile from
Johore Point, and within the edge of the shore bank just described. These
dangers are, however, quite out of the ordinary track of vessels as they lie
inside the Johore Shoal.

Tanjong Teeram, about H mile eastward of Tanjong Stapah, and bearing
W. ^ N. 2J miles from South Point, has rocks, both awash and below the
water, lying off it, and there are also many between it and South Point ; but
they are all within the margin of the 3-fathom edge of the shore bank.

SOUTH POINT, or Tanjong Tehimpang, the most southern point of this
part of the Malay Peninsula, bears W.S.W.-southerly 5 miles from Romania
Point. The 3-fathom edge of the shore bank which fronts this part of the
coast, is distant about a third of a mile from South Point ; the soundings
near it decrease rather suddenly from 10 or 9 fathoms.

ROMANIA POINT AND ISLANDS. 385

ROMANIA POINT, or Tatijong Penyiisoh, the S.E. extreme of the Malay
Peninsula, and of Asia, with the circumjacent coast, is level land, covered
with trees. The S. W. extreme of the point is nearly 1^ mile S.W. by W. % W.
from the S.E. extreme, and, although it is rather conspicuous, no name has
yet been given to it upon the chart. Between the extremes is a middle
point, with a small bay on either side.

Many rocks lie off Romania Point, extending nearly half a mile from it in
a southerly^direction. A rock awash also lies a short distance off shore, be-
tween the middle point and the S.W. extreme.

A shoal bank fronts this shore and extends outside these rocks, its edge
being distant nearly three-quarters of a mile in a S. by W. direction from
Romania Point. Southward of the S.W. extreme of the point a tongue pro-
jects in an easterly direction from the shore bank, the outer part of which is
three-quarters of a mile South of the point. Over this tongue are 3 fathoms
water, but inside of it is a narrow gap of 4 and 5 fathoms.

BARBUKIT HILL, 645 ft. high, 4^ miles W.N.W. from Romania Point,
and bearing from Horsburgh Lighthouse W. by N. f N. 12^ miles, is a regu-
lar pyramid rising from the low land, and, being only about 5 miles inland,
is a very useful object in making out the entrance of the strait.

FALSE BARBUKIT, 432 ft high, is a low, sloping hill near the sea, ap-
pearing like a tope of trees a little more elevated than the adjacent coast,
which is all rather low and woody to the northward of Barbukit HiU. It
bears N.N.E. 6 miles from Barbukit Hill, and N.W. from Horsburgh
Lighthouse, and, being discernible during hazy weather much sooner than
Barbukit Hill, answers as a guide in coming from the northward towards the
northern extremity of the outer shoals.

Prom the S.W. extreme of Romania Point, the South coast of the Malay
Peninsula, trends to the north-westward for about IJ mile to the entrance of
a small river, the Songie Romynia. From thence the land curves away to the
south-westward for 2\ miles to Tanjong Romynia, between which and South
Point, which bears from it S.W. by W. i W. nearly 1 J mile, is a small bay,
and the entrance of another small river, the Songie Kalarang.

WATER, or Watering Islands, is the name given to a small round island
about a quarter of a mile in extent, with an islet off its West extreme con-
nected to it by a reef, lying N.E. by E. ^ E. from Tanjong Romynia, the
outer side of the island being distant about three-quarters of a mile from it.

Close around the S.W. extreme of Romania Point is Diana Cove, where
there is a stream oi fresh water. The Romynia River, farther to the north-
■westward, has 2 or 3 ft. water at its narrow entrance at low tide, and is na-
vigable by boats 2 or 3 miles inland.

The ROMANIA ISLANDS, fronting Romania Point, are six in number ;
the westernmost or larger one is composed of two islands very near each
I. X. 3d

386 SINGAPOEE STEAIT; EASTEEN PAET.

other, joined by a reef; the northernmost and south-easternmost are two
barren rocks ; but the others are covered with trees. They extend about 2^
miles N.E. and S.W., the largest being within a mile of the point, and the
nearest to it. There is a rock, about 12 ft. above water, near the South point
of South Island, and a reef of straggling rocks extending to the eastward,
which are bold to approach on the South side.

DANGERS. — The following dangers lie contiguous to the Eomania Is-
lands : —

Congaltons Carr, a rocky patch, with l^ fathom water over it, and 8 to 12
fathoms close-to, is the easternmost of the dangers lying near the Eomania
Islands. From it the middle of the largest island is in line with Peak Eock,
the latter distant a mile ; North Eock, the northernmost island, bears N.W.-
northerly nearly 2 miles, and Horsburgh Lighthouse E.S.E.-easterly 5^
miles.

To avoid this danger, do not bring the southern extreme of the largest
Eomania Island to the westward of W. ^ N., or the centre of that island in
line with Peak Eock, until Tanjong Punji bears N.N.W. J W.

Caution. — When the tide is running to the westward, vessels passing
through the North channel must be very careful that they are not set too
near this danger, of which the lead will not give timely warning.

Jones Reef, having only 1 fathom water over it, and 8 or 9 fathoms close-
to, lies N.N.W. f W. a little over half a mile from Congaltons Carr, with
the Peak Eock bearing S.W. | W., distant three-quarters of a mile, and
North Eock N.W. | W. U mile.

Whale Rock, or Whales Crown Roch, lying W. by S. nearly a third of a
mile from Jones Eeef, is a small ledge of rocks which is particularly danger-
ous, as it is only at about three-quarters ebb that a email round rock be-
comes visible, and indicates the existence of the danger. It is steep-to, and
the depth in its vicinity is irregular, being from 15 to 8 or 9 fathoms. Peak
Eock bears from it S.W. ^ S., and North Eock N.W. i N., distant a mile.

A rocJc awash lies a short distance E.N.E., and a 4-fathom patch about a
quarter of a mile N.N.E. from Peak Eock. Another 4-fathom patch, with
12 fathoms near it, lies a short distance to the northward of Whale Eock.

A Reef, about half a mile in extent, and dry in places, lies between North
Island and North Eock. Its eastern extreme bears North from Peak Eock,
distant three-quarters of a mile ; and its western extreme rather less than
half a mile S.S.W. from North Eock. Upon its north-eastern extreme is
the smallest of the Eomania Islands — a mere rock ; and there is a o-fathom
patch between it and North Island.

Stork Reef, lying S.W. by W. |- W. about three-quarters of a mile from
Congaltons Carr, is about 3 cables in extent N.E. and S.W., and from its
S.W. point Barbukit Hill is on with the North hump of the large Eomania
Island bearing W. by N. | N. ; Peak Eock N.W., distant a little more than

THE EOMANIA SHOALS. 387

half a mile; the point of Watering Bay, the S.W. part of Romania Point,
West ; and Horsburgh Lighthouse E. by S. i S. 6 miles.

A Three-Fathom Patch lies S.W. by W. two-thirds of a mile from Stork
Eeef. South Island bears from it N. by W. | W. half a mile ; the South
end of the large Romania Island N.W. nearly a mile ; and South Point
W. by S. 6i miles.

A rock awash lies with South Island N.E. ^ E., distant one-third of a mile,
and the large Romania Island N. by W. f W. about the same distance.

A Four-Fathom Patch lies nearly a mile W. by S. from the 3-fathom patch
just mentioned ; with South Island bearing N.E. nearly a mile ; the large
Romania Island N. by E. 5 E., .three-quarters of a mile; and the largest
Water Island, West-southerly.

A Shoal with only 2^ fathoms water over it, and which is the southernmost
of the dangers near the Romania Islands, lies with the large Romania Island
bearing N. N.E. -easterly, distant 1| mile ; Horsburgh Lighthouse E. I S. 7f
miles ; Romania Point North 1 j mile ; and South Point W. i S., nearly 4f
miles. There is a patch of 4 J fathoms lying a third of a mile in a south-
easterly direction from this shoal.

Clearing Mark. — There is deep water, 9 to 12 or 13 fathoms, very close to
the above dangers. Tanjong Stapah, a point 3f miles to the eastward of
South Point, in line with South Point bearing West, will lead clear to the
southward of the last-mentioned patch of 2f fathoms, as also to the southward
of all the dangers near the Romania Islands.

The ROMANIA SHOALS are a number of detached patches of sand and
coral — various as to extent and depths of water over them — stretching in a
south-westerly direction from the tail of the bank which extends to the south-
ward of North Patch, towards the rocks and dangers which lie outside the
Romania Islands. Between these patches are channels with depths of 8 to
10 fathoms water.

The limits of these shoals, to depths of 4 fathoms and under, lie between
the bearings of N. by W. J W. and N.W. ^ W. from Horsburgh Lighthouse,
the distance on the former bearing being 6 miles, and on the latter 5 miles.
The least water shown upon the chart is 3^- fathoms, and this shoal portion
lies between the bearings N. by W. f W. and N.N.W. A W. from Horsburgh
Lighthouse, and is about a mile in length, in a northerly direction. But it
does not appear that 3^ fathoms is the least water on these shoals, and great
caution should be used.

Outside the N.E. limit of the shoal part of these reefs, the patches have
depths generally of 6 to 8 or 9 fathoms over them, but there is one patch of
5 fathoms bearing N. h W., and another of the same depth bearing N.W.
by W. from the lighthouse.

South Island, the southernmost island of the Romania Group, just open of
South Point, the southern extreme of the Malay Peninsula, leads to the south-

288 SINGAPOKE STRAIT; EASTERN PART.

ward of the Romania Shoals ; and Horsburgh Lighthouse kept to the sotitli-
ward of S. by E. ^ E., will lead to the eastward of those patches which have
less than 5 fathoms over them.

NORTH PATCH, lying 4J miles W. by S. from the Eastern Bank, is gene-
rally considered the outermost of the Romania Shoals, for the reason that the
Eastern Bank, not having less than 7 or 8 fathoms water over it, is not only
not dangerous to the mariner, but it is in fact useful to him, serving to deter-
mine his position ; whereas the North Patch, having but 4 fathoms water over
it, is not safe for a large ship to cross in a swell or a heavy sea. The patch
is nearly IJ mile long. North and South, and half a mile broad, composed of
mud and sand, and has but 4 fathoms water over the greater part of it. It
lies near the North end, and is the shoalest part of a bank about 5 miles long
and 2 miles broad, with depths of 6 to 10 fathoms over it, and a 5-fathom
spot about a mile from its South end. From the North end of North Patch,
Palse Barbukit Hill bears W. | S. 12i miles; Barbukit Hill S.W. by W. | W.
16 miles ; and Horsburgh Lighthouse S. by W. 11 i miles.

Bintang Little Hill open to the westward of Bintang Great HiU, leads
half a mile eastward of the North Patch.

The EASTERN SANK, the outermost of the shoal patches off Romania
Point, is nearly 1^ mile in extent, with soundings of 7 J to 10 fathoms over
it, and 11 to 14 fathoms close around it. It lies about a mile inside the
range of the Horsburgh light, and from its outer edge the light bears S.W.
by S., distant 14 miles; Barbukit Hill W. by S. | S. -southerly ; and False
Barbukit W. ^ S.

Vessels getting soundings of 8 to 10 fathoms on this bank, during hazy
weather, sometimes think they are on the northern patch of Romania outer
reef, and then haul more to the eastward, which renders them liable to fall
to leeward of the strait.

PEDRA BRANCA lies nearly in mid-channel of the eastern entrance to
Singapore Strait, and as it advances beyond the mouth of the straits consi-
derably into the China Sea, it has for ages sei'ved as the principal leading
mark to vessels passing out of, or into, the straits. Its Portuguese name,
*' white rock," was significant of its appearance prior to the erection of the
lighthouse, from its being so marked by the dung of the numerous sea birds
which lived on it. It consists of a reef of light grey granitic rocks, about
450 ft. long N.E. and S.W., and 200 ft. broad. At high water it had the
appearance of a mere heap of boulders loosely piled together, which only
afforded two rocks large enough to build the lighthouse upon ; the S.W. one
was chosen.

The HORSBURGH LIGHTHOUSE, which stands on this rock, is a noble
monument. It was determined on in 1847, after several years of delay and
discussion. The funds were partially raised by liberal subscription in Sin-
gapore and China, and the structure was designed and executed by J. T.

DANGERS NEAR PEDRA BRANCA. 389

Thompson, Esq., the government surveyor, who has given an elaborate and
interesting account of the work. It is dedicated to the memory of James
Horsburgh, F.R.S., the hydrographer of the East Indies. It is a fine column
of dressed granite, the first building so constructed in these countries, is 92
feet 9 inches in height from base to the top of the funnel, with a white
spherical dome, and the base of the rock being 16 feet 9 inches above the
high-water level, it has a total height of 109 feet 6 inches.

It shows a brilliant revolving light, from nine holophotal metallic reflectors,
the invention of Mr. Thomas Stevenson, three on each face of a triangular
frame, which revolves in three minutes, consequently a bright flash of 15
seconds' duration is produced in every direction once in a minute. The light
totally disappears at great distances. It is elevated 95 ft. above high-water
mark, and so may be seen 15 miles off from the deck of an ordinary ship.

It is in lat. 1° 19' 58" N., long. 104° 24' 28" E., and from it the largest island
ofi' Romania Point bears W. by N. i N. about 7^ miles. It is the same dis-
tance from the shore of Bintang, and is in one with the centre of Bintang
Great Hill, bearing S. by E. J E.

DANGERS near PEDRA BRANCA.— With the exception of a patch of 4
fathoms, the North and N.W. sides of Pedra Branca are steep-to, there being
17 fathoms close to the rock, and 30 to 36 fathoms near it.

This 4-fathom patch lies about a quarter of a mile northward of the rock,
and is the only shoal spot between it and the Romania Shoals, in which
space the depths are very variable in mid-channel, 17 to 32 fathoms, but
they become more i-egular, 17 to 14 fathoms, towards the Romania Shoals.

The East, South, and S.E. sides of Pedra Branca should not be approached
nearer than a mile, for there are dangerous rocky patches to the distance of
half a mile from the East side; and the South and S.E. sides are foul to
three-quarters of a mile, at which distance South and S.S.E. ^ E. from the
lighthouse are two dangerous ledges, named Middle Rocks, which are but
little above the surface at high water. Eastward at a short distance from the
Middle Rocks is a patch of 4 fathoms, and North a quarter of a mile from
this patch is a rock with only 3 ft. of water over it.

SOUTH LEDGE is very dangerous. It consists of three pointed rocks,
very little detached from each other, with 8 and 9 fathoms close to, and 16
or 18 fathoms at a short distance from them in their stream. They are of
small extent, not visible until the ebb has been made some time, and are
nearly covered before the stream of flood begins to run. Horsburgh light-
house bears from them N. by E. 5 E. , distant 2 miles ; the large Romania
Island N.W. by W. \ W. 7^ miles : and the outer hHl on Brakit Point E.S.E.
12^ miles.

Between the South ledge and Middle Rocks the distance is about 1 h mile,
and the depths 15 to 20 fathoms ; and between the South ledge and Diana
Shoal the distance is 4^ miles, and the depths vary from 12 to 18 fathoms,

390 SINGAPORE STRAIT ; EASTERN PART.

decreasing under 1 1 fathoms within a mile of the Diana, and shoaling to 8
fathoms close to that danger.

The Tides about Pedra Branca are described on pages 26, 27.

EAST COAST of the MALAY PENINSULA.— The coast from Romania
Point turns sharply to the northward, and at the distance of a little over
half a mile is a point with some rocks off it, from whence the land falls
back, forming a bay about a mile deep, the northern horn of which, named
Tanjong Punji, bears N. f E. 4^ miles from Romania Point. About 41 miles
N. by W. i W. from Tanjong Punji, is another point, named Tanjong Lompaty
which bears about West from the North patch, the outermost of the shoal
patches which extend from the Romania Shoals.

A shoal bank fronts the whole of the coast from the point a mile northward
of Romania Point to Tanjong Lompat. Abreast of Barbukit Hill it projects
If mile from the shore, nearly as far as the meridian of North Rock, which
bearing South leads close to its edge. Off Punji Point it extends about half
a mile, and off Lompat Point three-quarters of a mile.

Water. — Excellent water can be procured from the river close round the
rocky point, about 6 cables' lengths North of Romania Point.

The Inner Channel, between Romania Point and the islands, cannot be
considered safe, and we refrain from giving any directions which might have
the effect of tempting vessels to use it.

The North Channel is bounded on the East by the shoalest part of the
Romania Shoals, and on the West by the dangers which lie to the eastward
of the Romania Islands. The channel is about 3J miles wide ; there is one
patch of 4 to 5 fathoms and another of 5 fathoms lying in its fairway, but
there does not appear to be any less water, and it is now frequently used
by those locally acquainted.

Directions from the Northward. — Coming from the northward, and wish-
ing to proceed into Singapore Strait by the North Channel, pass about
midway between the North patch and the shore, and by the time False
Barbukit Hill bears West, Barbukit Hill should bear S.W. by W., nearly, or
in case Barbukit cannot be discerned, the South extreme of Tanjong Punji
should bear about S.W. ^ W. ; a S. f W. course will then lead through the
channel by the middle track marked on the chart, which passes over the
patch of 4 to 5 fathoms.

A vessel following this track will have soundings from 13 to 10 fathoms,
until Barbukit Hill bears about W. by S. or W. ^ S., when they will de-
crease to 8 and 7 fathoms, and when Barbukit Hill bears West to about 6
fathoms. She will then soon have 5 or 4J fathoms on the bank, except at
low-water spring tides, when there may be as little as 4 fathoms. The
depths will soon increase to 8, 9, or 10 fathoms, and then suddenly to 13,
or perhaps 15 fathoms, when she will bo in Singapore Strait. This 4-

DIRECTIONS. 391

fathom patch may be avoided and the banks crossed In not less than 6
fathoms water, by steering for Horsburgh lighthouse bearing S.E. ^ S. to
S.E. ^ S.

Having crossed the banks, the S. f "W. course should be continued to
avoid getting too near Congaltons Carr, over which there is but 1^ fathom.
The middle of the largest of the Eomania Islands in line with Peak Eock is
the mark for this dangerous patch, and vessels should be cautious — extremely
80 when the tide is making to the westward — not to bring the East extreme
of Punji Point to the North of N.N.W. ^ W., until Peak Eock is North of
the middle part of the largest of the Eomania Islands, or until the South end
of the last-named island bars W. ^ N. The vessel will then be to the
southward of Congaltons Carr, and may steer S.W., but nor more westerly,
until Tanjong Stapah comes open South of South Point, when she will be to
the southward of all the dangers near the Eomania Islands, and may steer
W.S.W. or W. by S., according to circumstances.

From the Southward. — In proceeding through the North channel from
Singapore, take care, after passing South Point, not to lose sight of Stapah
Point behind it, in order to avoid the 2|-fathom patch and other dangers
near the Eomania Islands. When the largest of those islands bears N.N.W.,
steer N.E., to pass about three-quarters of a mile outside Congaltons Carr ;
but if the tide is setting to the westward, a more easterly course must be
steered to avoid that danger, which will be done if the South end of the
largest of the Eomania Islands be not brought westward of W. J N., or
Peak Eock in line with the centre of that island, until the right extreme of
Punji Point bears N.N.W. J W. With these marks on the vessel will be in
about 13 or 15 fathoms water, and may steer N. | E., through the North
channel on the middle track.

In following this middle track, the soundings will vary from 12 to 15
fathoms for the distance of the first mile, when they will suddenly decrease
to 9 or 8 fathoms, and shortly after to 5 or 4^, and if at low-water spring
tides, perhaps to 4 fathoms. Having crossed this shoal part of the bank —
which is only about a third of a mile broad — the soundings will soon deepen
to 6, 7, and 8 fathoms, and by the time Barbukit Hill bears W. h S., to 10
and 11 fathoms; from thence to the northward they will continue to be 12
or 13 fathoms until past the North patch.

A vessel will avoid the 4-fathom patch and cross the banks in not less
than 6 fathoms water, by keeping Horsburgh lighthouse S.E. \ S. to S.E
^ S., and steering the opposite course till the banks are crossed.

In working through the southern part of this channel, Horsburgh light-
house should not be brought to the southward of S.E. 5 S. when standing
towards the Eomania Shoals ; nor to the eastward of S.E. by E. ^ E. when
standing towards Congaltons Carr or Jones Eeef. The soundings are not at
all to be depended upon to guide a vessel near these latter dangers, for there

392 SINGAPORE STRAIT; EASTERN PART.

are 12 fathoms in one direction and 6 in another very close to Congaltons
Carr, and 9 or 8 fathoms close to Jones Reef.

SOUTH SIDE OE EASTERN PART OF THE STRAIT.

BINTANG is the largest island on the South side of Singapore Strait ;
B.attam Island, on the West side of Rhio Strait, is also of considerable size,
and from it a chain of islands, separated by narrow guts, extends westward,
terminating nearly opposite the Rabbit and Coney.

The North side of Bintang is about 16 or 17 miles in length, nearly
E. by N. and W. by S., the greater part being taken up by the large bay of
Sumpat ; several dangers lie off it, which will be described in detail farther
on. Like most of the other land bounding the strait of Singapore, it is
covered with trees, and, excepting the hills inland, is not much elevated.

Bintang KUls.—Bmtanff Great Bill, in lat. 1° 4' 20" N., long. 104° 29' E.,
bearing S. by E. i E., about 16 J miles from Horsburgh Lighthouse, may be
seen in clear weather 40 miles, being 1,230 ft. high, and is a good mark in
approaching the entrance of the strait from the northward. When viewed
from that direction it forms a saddle, and adjoining it on the North side,
there is a small conical hill, called False Bintang Hill, or Bintang Little Hill,
762 ft. high, the summit of which is central with the saddle of the large
hill bearing S. 8° E. When the centre of the saddle bears South {true), the
summit of the Little Hill is just open with the western shoulder of the large
hill ; and this mark or bearing of Bintang Hill is a safe guide to carry a
vessel to the eastward of, but pretty near to the North patch, the outermost
of the Romania Shoals.

TANJONG BRAKIT, the N.E. point of Bintang Island, has some hilla
on its East side 217 ft. high, and others a mile farther to the southward 267
feet high. Reefs and dangers extend l\ mile from this point, within the
margin of which lie the following : — Pulo Coco, an island 40 ft. high, narrow,
but three-quarters of a mile long, lies close to, and appears to form the
©astern side of, Brakit Point ; it may be approached to a distance of half a
mile. Pulo Brahit, 30 ft. high, is an island about half the size of Coco,
lying half a mile N.N.E. from the northern part of Brakit Point. It should
not be approached nearer than three-quarters of a mile, for the shore reef
projects nearly half a mile outside of it.

Blac]< Rocks are a cluster of dark-coloured rocks lying off the North ex-
treme of Brakit Point, the outermost rocks being distant nearly a mile from
the shore ; and a tongue of sand, with but 3 fathoms water over it, projects
a third of a mile from their outer edge.

BRAKIT ROCK, discovered in 1861 by Mr. Stanton, commanding H.M.S.
Saracen, is a cable in length, N. W. and S.E., and half a cable in breadth,
▼ith 2 fathoms over it at low water, and 10 to 12 fathoms close to all round.

TULLOH SUMPAT. 393

It lies N.N.E. J E. 2? miles from Tanjong^ Brakit, and from its southera
and shoalest part the northern extreme of Pulo Sumpat appears in line with
the apex of Little Bintang Hill S.W. J S., and Horsburgh lighthouse bears
W. by N. ^ N. 12^ miles. A conspicuous double tree on a long hill 4 miles
from Tanjong Lokan appears just outside the point bearing S. J W. This
tree kept well open of Tanjong Lokan clears the eastern side ; Pulo Panjang
peak S.E. ^ S. will clear both the eastern and northern sides. Barbukit Hill,
about four times its own breadth open eastward of Horsburgh lighthouse,
will also lead a vessel northward ; and Little Bintang Hill well open north-
ward of Pulo Sumpat will lead to the westward.

The channel between the Brakit Eock and the point is free from danger.
It is not, however, advisable to use this channel except in cases of
emergency.

Postillion Reef, composed of coral and sand, and having 2 fathoms water
over it, lies nearly half a mile outside the shore reef extending from Brakit
Point ; between them are depths of 4 to 8 fathoms. Horsburgh lighthouse
bears from this reef N.W. by W. | W., nearly 10^ miles.

A shoal, apparently about half a mile in extent, having 1^ fathom water
over it, is marked on the chart S.W. by W. ^ W., \^ mile from Postillion
Eeef, W. by N. ^ N., a little over 2^ miles from Tanjong Brakit.

TULLOH SUMPAT or Sumpat Bay, is the extensive bight between the
western extreme of Tanjong Brakit and Tanjong Batu Sow, which lie W. f S.
and E. f N. of each other 2^ miles apart. Pulo Sunvpat, a small island 178
feet high, lying in the eastern part of Sumpat Bay, may be readily known
by its saddle shape. It lies 2\ miles South of the shoal last mentioned, and
S.E. \ S. IJ mile from the western extreme of Brakit Point.

Two Reefs lie near the bottom of Sumpat Bay, the outer of which is nearly
a mile distant from a rocky point on the shore, about 2 miles W. by S. ^ S.
from Pulo Sumpat, and 2\ miles E. | N. from Tanjong Batu Sow.

Diana Shoal, about half a mile in extent, has but 2f fathoms water over
it, and 4 fathoms close around. From its outer edge Tanjong Brakit bears
E. \ S. distant 8| miles ; Tanjong Batu Sow S.W. 3 miles ; and Horsburgh
lighthouse N. by W. § W. 6 miles. A little more than half a mile in a
W.S.W. direction from this shoal is a sand patch with 4 and 5 fathoms
water.

Langui Shoal, about a third of a mile in extent N.N.E. and S.S.W., lies
W. by S. ^ S. 4;^ miles from the Diana Shoal. Over its South end there is
but \\ fathom water, and 3 fathoms over its North end. From its North
end Tanjong Subong — the N.W. point of Bintang at the entrance of Ehio
Strait — bears S.W. J W. 4 miles, Tanjong Batu Sow E.S.E. a little over 2
miles, and Horsburgh lighthouse N. by E. f E. 7? miles.

This shoal and bank will be avoided by not bringing the point of Bintang,
I. A. 3 E

394 SINGAPORE STEAIT ; EASTERN PART.

which lies a mile W.S.W. of Tanjong Batu Sow, to the eastward of S.S.E.,
until Pulo Skeree (Doea Island), which lies on the East side of the entrance
of Rhio Strait, comes open of Tanjong Subong, bearing about S.W. Hors-
burgh lighthouse bears from the Langui Shoal N. by E. f E. 7| miles ; the
lighthouse or light therefore bearing N.N.E. i E. will lead about a mile
westward of this danger. A three-fathom patch lies about half a mile to the
southward of the Langui Shoal, and between them are 6 to 7 fathoms water.

The Coast between Tanjong Batu Sow and Tanjong Subong, forms a bay
about three-quarters of a mile deep, and oflf its East point, which is about a
mile W.S.W. from Tanjong Batu Sow, are some islets and rocks.

At half a mile S.W. by W. from Tanjong Pergam, the West point of the
bay, is an islet called Pulo Pergam, with a rock awash about a third of a mile
N.W. by W. from it. A rock awash lies about a third of a mile N.E. | E.
from Tanjong Subong.

From the above description, it will be seen that the whole of this part of
the coast is fronted with dangers ; and as it has been but partially explored,
and it is extremely probable that other dangers than those marked on the
chart may exist, vessels are advised not to attempt to come inside the Diana
and Langui Shoals.

Tanjong Subong, the north-western point of Bintang, and the Crocodile
and Pan Shoals, in the entrance of Rhio Strait, have been previously de-
scribed on pages 318 and 325.

TANJONG NONGSA, the most northern point of Battam Island, bears
W. 5 N., distant \3^ miles from Tanjong Subong; South, nearly 11 miles
from Johore Hill ; and S. by E. J E 7i miles from the eastern extreme of
Johore Shoal. The shore reef, which extends a mile off Tanjong Bomban,
the N.E. extreme of Battam, decreases in distance from the shore towards
this point, and off its eastern part does not extend farther than 1 or 2 cables'
lengths.

Pulo Nongsa, a small island a third of a mile in extent, with a high tree
upon it, lies \\ mile westward of Tanjong Nongsa, and about half a mile off
the nearest point of Battam. It is rather a conspicuous object when near
this part of the strait, and if kept open of Nongsa Point will lead a ship
clear of the Little Pan Shoal.

Bollan Bay, lying to the westward of Tanjong Nongsa, is nearly 3 miles
wide at its mouth, between Tanjong Treng on the East, and Tanjong Pengair
on the West, and 2^ miles deep, narrowing towards its head. A detached
reef lies at the entrance of Bullan Bay, a mile distant E. |^ N. from Tanjong
Pengair. The best anchorage in this bay for vessels of moderate draught
appears to be with Pulo Nongsa bearing N.E. by E., and Tanjong Treng
about E. by S. ^ S.

BATTAM BAY, the large bight immediately to the westward of Bollan
Bay, is nearly 7| miles wide, and 2 miles deep, being bounded to the east-

DIRECTIONS. 395

ward by the projecting point of which Tanjong Stqiiang is the N."W. extreme,
and to the westward by the two Sambo Islands. In the depth of the bay
are two islands about a mile apart, the eastern one of which is named Man-
grove Island.

The Sambo Islands, forming the western limit of Battam Bay, project
from Battam Island in a N.W. by N. direction, towards St. John's Islands
on the opposite side of the strait. Pulo Sambo, the southern island, is nearly
a mile long and about half a mile broad, and is distant a little over IJ mile
from the nearest part of Battam. Little Sambo, about half the size of Pulo
Sambo, lies about a third of a mile to the northward of it.

A rockg ledge, a third of a mile in extent, lies N.N.W. i W., the outer part
distant two-thirds of a mile from Little Sambo ; and half a mile to the west-
ward of it is another rocky ledge. These ledges are the outermost dangers
on the southern side of this part of the strait, and near them are very irre-
gular soundings.

Directions for the Eastern Fart of the Strait. — The Middle Channel be-
tween Horsburgh lighthouse and the Romania Shoals is the main entrance
to Singapore Strait from the eastward. Although the South channel is still
recommended as being preferable for sailing through in the night, yet it is
so encumbered with dangers, to clear which no good marks can be given,
that it is seldom used by those accustomed to the navigation of the strait,
more especially since the discovery, in 1161, of the Brakit Rock oflF Brakit
Point, which is extremely dangerous to vessels standing out in the N.E.
monsoon. The difficulty and danger attending the navigation of this chan-
nel arises from the risk of wrongly judging the distance from the lighthouse
when endeavouring to keep clear of the South ledge.

Coming from the eastward or north-eastward in the daytime, the entrance
of Singapore Strait may be easily recognized if the weather be fine and clear
by Bintang Great Hill, a remarkable saddle hill (1,230 ft. high) on Bin-
tang Island, and the sharp-peaked hill of Barbukit (645 ft. high), on the
opposite side of the strait. Bearings of these objects will serve to fix the
vessel's position and guide her in shaping a course to sight the lighthouse.
In making the entrance at night, if the vessel's position be known, it will be
merely necessary to stand on boldly for the light, being careful to make a
proper allowance for the set of the current, and when the light is seen, steer
so as to pass about a mile to the northward of it. Vessels should not get
within about 2 miles ot the light until it bears to the southward of W.S.W.,
on account of the dangers lying off its East side.

It is from the northward, however, that the strait is mostly made (viz., by
vessels coming from China), it being now the general custom for vessels
from Europe to enter from Rhio Strait.

During the strength of the N.E. monsoon the current sets generally to the
southward or S.S.E., between Pulo Aor and the East end of Bintang, by

396 SINGAPORE STEAIT ; EASTERN PART.

■which vessels running for Singapore Strait in thick weather are liable to
fall to the southward of its entrance, if proper allowance be not made.

Departing from Pulo Aor, steer to bring it to bear about North when
disappearing ; if the weather be clear, Bintang Hill and Pulo Aor may be
seen together ; but this seldom happens. Do not bring the centre of Bin-
tang Saddle Hill to the eastward of South, until Horsburgh lighthouse is
visible from the deck ; for with the hill bearing South the vessel will not
pass far outside the North patch ; but it is a safe bearing if the compass be
cori'ect, and will lead down in soundings of 16 to 13 fathoms. Bintang Little
Hill, open to the westward of Bintang Great Hill, leads to the eastward of
the North patch.

In hazy weather Bintang Hill is seldom visible until the eastern bank is
passed, in which case, having Pulo Aor disappearing about North, a course
S. by W. to S.S.W. may be requisite to counteract the south-easterly cur-
rent, or the ebb tide setting out of the strait to the north-eastward. The
depths will decrease regularly in steering southward, and the low land will
prolally be seen to the westward, when in 20 or 18 fathoms ; if so, coast it
along at 10 or 12 miles' distance, until False Barbukit low sloping hill is
discerned, appearing a little way from the sea like a clump of trees more
elevated than the others. When this hill bears "VV.S.W., 15 fathoms is the
fair track ; with it bearing W. f S. and W. ^ S., overfalls from 16 to 13
fathoms may be experienced, or probably less water, being then about the
parallel of the North patch and the shoal patch, with 8 to 10 fathoms, on
the eastern bank.

Having coasted along at 10 or 12 miles distance, with the land distinctly
in sight from the deck, and having brought False Barbukit Hill to bear
about W. by S., the vessel will be approaching the North patch ; and with
this hill bearing about W. f S., if a cast of 10, 9, or 8 fathoms is got, but
uncertain whether these soundings are on the North patch, or on the shoal
patch of the eastern bank, haul to the south-eastward until in 14 or 15
fathoms. Steer then South about 2 miles, or until False Barbukit Hill bears
West, when the vessel will be to the southward of the shoal patch of the
eastern bank, and abreast the North patch ; she may then haul in to the
W.S.W., and get a cast of 10 or 11 fathoms, and will then be certain that
these soundings are on the outer edge of the Romania Shoals, but in doing
so, heave the lead quickly, and if there is less than 10 fathoms, haul out
directly eastward into 15 to 16 fathoms, and then steer along the S.E. edge
of the shoals in 16 or 17 fathoms. If, when the lighthouse is discerned, it
bears S.S.W., the vessel will be clear to the eastward of the shoals ; but if
it is seen bearing S. by W., she will be close to or upon their edge. Having
steered round the shoals so far as to bring the lighthouse S. by W., do not
come under 16 or 17 fathoms in passing along their southern part ; for they
are there steep from 16 to 12, and from 12 to 3 fathoms at a cast, on some of

DIRECTIONS. 397

the rocky patches, with the lighthouse bearing from S.E. ^ S. to South.
South Island just open to the southward of South Point, bearing about "W.
by S. ^ S., leads clear to the southward of all the Eomania Shoals.

Although Pedra Branca Pock is steep-to on the North side, it should not
be approached very closely, for vessels are liable to estimate their distance
from it sometimes greater than the truth ; and, as the tide runs stiong, they
are in danger of being drifted quickly towards^ the rock without warning, if
they borrow near it in light winds.

Having passed between the Eomania Shoals and Lighthouse, and bound
to Singapore Poads, if the vessel be over on the North side of the channel,
steer about S.W. or S.W. by W., if in mid-channel about W.S.W., and if
near the lighthouse about W. by S., taking care if on the North side of the
channel to have Tanjong Stapah open of South Point, before South Island,
of the Pomania group, is brought to the eastward of N. by E. Having
brought the lighthouse to bear E. by N., the opposite course (W. by S.)
will lead at a convenient distance from the North shore of the strait until
Changhi Point bears North, when steer half a point more to the southward ;
the ships in the roads will be by this time in sight, and be a guide in
approaching the anchorage, and as Tanjong Catong is neared, the flagstaff
on Fort Canning Hill overlooking the town should not be brought to the
westward of "W. by N.

If the tide is running to the westward it is the usual practice for vessels
to keep well over on the North side of the channel, especially in light winds,
for neglecting this precaution they have often been swept by the rapid
current past Singapore Roads and the St. John's Islands — the deep water 45
or 50 fathoms, rendering it difficult or imposssible for them to anchor — into
the western part of the strait. In doing this, however, they must be cautious
not to go too near the Johore Shoal, which will be avoided by keeping South
Romania Island open of South Point, or South Point to the northward of
E. by N. * N.

At Night keep a good look-out for Horsburgh Light (page 388), which
being visible in clear weather at 15 miles, will be in sight before the vessel
can get too near the dangers at the entrance of the strait.

If entering the strait from the southward or south-eastward, the light is
seen bearing to the southward of West, a course may be shaped to pass about
2 miles to the northward of the light, proper care being observed to allow
for the set of the tide, so that the light is not neared under 2 miles, on a
West or N.AV. bearing, to avoid the dangers extending to the East and
S.E. from it. Should the light, when first seen, bear about W. by N. or
W.N.W., a vessel will be within 2 or 3 miles of the Brakit Rock, over which
there are but 2 fathoms water, and from which the light bears W. by
N. iN. 12i miles.

If when entering from the northward the light is made bearing anything

398 SINGAPORE STRAIT; EASTERN PART.

to the southward of S.S.W., haul to the eastward until it bears S.S.W.,
which will lead outside the North patch; approach the light upon this
bearing until about 2 miles from it, when a W.S.W. course may be shaped
until the light is brought E. by N., when keep it on that bearing, steering
W. by S. until the light is lost sight of.

Continuing for 4 or 5 miles farther on a W. by 8. course after Horsburgh
Light has disappeared, the fixed light at Singapore will soon come in sight,
but in case it should not be distinctly made out by the time Johore Hill
bears N. by E., do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms towards Johore Shoal,
and if a cast of 12 or 11 fathoms should be had haul quickly to the south-
ward, for this shoal is steep, and should not be approached under that depth.
Be careful not to mistake Singapore Light, which will be seen some dis-
tance above the horizon when first discerned, and high above the lights of
the shipping and town as the roads are neared ; when plainly seen it may
be approached on a West bearing until the eastern extreme of Singapore
Island (Changhi Point) bears North, or Johore Hill bears N.E. | E., when
the light should be brought to bear W. i N. ; as Tanjong Catong is
approached, edge to the southward until the light is to the northward of
W. by N.

It is very necessary to observe the precaution of keeping on the North
shore of the strait when nearing Singapore Roads at night, for although a
vessel may have entered the strait with a strong N.E. monsoon, yet as she
nears the roads, the wind will, in the night, generally draw off the land
from the north-westward, making it always very difiicult and sometimes
impossible to fetch into the roads or get into a convenient depth of water for
anchoring.

If bound into the strait of Malacca, a W. by S. i S. course is the fair
mid-channel track from Horsburgh Lighthouse, and when within 5 miles of
St. John's Island, the Raffles fixed white light on Coney Island will be dis-
tinctly seen. A vessel should steer up pretty close to St. John's Island,
avoiding the South side of the strait, and proceed through the western part
of the strait according to the directions given at pages 364—366 ; the Raffles
Light bearing W.S.W. is the fair channel mark.

The South Channel is sometimes convenient for ships which fall to lee-
ward of Horsburgh Lighthouse during thick weather, as they have no occa-
sion to anchor outside. If the wind be north-easterly, they may run down
until within 4 or 5 miles from the Bintang shore, remembering that Barbukit
Hill must be kept four times its own breadth open northward of Horsburgh
Lighthouse, or the lighthouse kept westward of W. by N. ^ N. to clear the
Brakit Rock, then haul to the westward, and pass nearly in mid-channel
between the shore and the lighthouse in 11 to 13 fathoms of water. With
the wind at N.W. or N., it will be advisable to borrow nearer to the South
ledge than to the Bintang shore, observing not to approach too closely to the

DIRECTIONS. 399

South ledge, as it is covered at high-tide. By borrowing towards the
weather side of the channel, vessels will be enabled to reach well into the
entrance of the strait ; and if the wind is scant and the tide against them,
they will have smooth water and good bottom for anchorage, until the tide
of flood is favourable for proceeding to the westward.

To work throngh the Eastern Part of the Strait. — No difficulty will be ex-
perienced by strangers in working in either direction through the eastern
part of the strait. The most prudent plan is to keep towards the North
shore, as the depths are more convenient for anchoring on that side of the
strait, in case of having to bring up. A vessel should tack towards the
Eomania shoals, when South Island is seen opening to the southward of
South Point ; and when standing towards Stork Eeef and Congaltons Carr,
South Point should not be brought to the southward of W. ^ S. When
South Island bears to the eastward of North, Tanjong Stapah must not be
shut in behind South Point when standing to the northward ; and from
thence the shore may be approached into 12 or 11 fathoms. South Island
kept open of South Point leads to the southward of Johore Shoal, and when
standmg towards this danger, if these objects connot be seen, avoid coming
under 17 or 16 fathoms, and on no account under 12 or 11 fathoms, for the
shoal is steep. From Johore Shoal to Singapore Poads the shore may be
approached to 12 or 11 fathoms; but it is not prudent to go into a lesa
depth.

There are no dangers on the South side of the strait, excepting those
fronting the Bintang Coast and the Crocodile and Pan Shoals, &c. But a
vessel should not stand so far over as to get near these dangers, for no ad-
vantage will be gained by doing so, and the depths there are inconveniently-
great for anchoring. Pulo Nong:sa, a remarkable little island, with a high
tree upon it, lying just to the westward of the entrance to Phio Strait, is-
very convenient for taking bearings of when getting over to the southward
near Phio Strait, and if kept to the southward of West, will lead clear of all
danger at the entrance of that strait.

To proceed from ISingapore Roads to the Eastward. — On leaving the roads,,
steer about E. by S. until past Tanjong Catong, when a course may be
shaped about East, and by not bringing the flagstalf on Fort Canning ta
the southward of West as long as it remains in sight, it will lead well clear
of Johore Shoal. When Johore Hill bears North, the vessel will be west-
ward of Juhore Shoal, and may steer E. by N. for the lighthouse, and passing
about a mile to the northward of it, proceed to sea as convenient.

CHAPTEE X.

THE GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

The Gulf of Siam extends from Pulo Kapas on the Malay coast, 245 miles
N. by W. from Point Romania to Pulo Obi, off Cambodia Point, 217 miles
in a N.N.E. direction. But in order to complete the description of the
coast, that portion of the Malay Peninsula South of Pulo Kapas will be
included in the present chapter. A portion of this coast, more than 100
miles in extent, was surveyed in 1849 by Mr. J. T. Thompson, F.R.G S., the
surveyor of the Straits Settlements. The rest is imperfectly laid down, but
the Siamese Government have recently made some new surveys.

The Gulf of Siam has not been completely surveyed, but the examination
of its shores, more than 1,000 miles in extent, made by Mr. John Eichards,
E.N., in H.M. surveying vessel Saracen, in 1856 — 8, includes everything
required for its safe navigation. The ensuing description of, and directions
for the Gulf are chiefly by that ofl&cer.

The Winds and Seasons are described on pages 16 — 17, ante.

The Currents on page 28.

The Passages to and from the Gulf, on pages 63 to 67,

The EAST COAST of the MALAY PENINSULA, from Romania Point,
its S.E. extreme, to opposite Pulo Varela, is mostly lew and woody, its
general direction being about N.N.W. Close to the coast, especially off the
points, there are many rocks, both above and below water, but they all, with
the exception of the Gading Rocks, near Blair Harbour, appear to lie within
the 3-fathom line of sounding ; so that when clear of Romania Reef the
coast is in most places safe to approach by the lead.

It was formerly a common practice for vessels bound from China to Singa-
pore, or to Banka or Gaspar Straits, to work down close to this coast. Now,
however, as has been previously remarked (p. 62), those from China usually
stand to the southward as soon as they can weather the reefs. But vessels
from Siam bound to the southward against the S. W, monsoon, generally find

SIBOU ISLANDS— PULO TINGY. 401

it most convenient to keep as close as possible to the Malay coast, where they
meet with regular tides, whilst a constant northerly current is found a few-
miles from the coast.

PULO EU, in lat. 2° 7' N., long. 104° 17' E., is the south-eastern of a
chain of islets and rocks which lie in a S.E. direction from Pulo Tingy, and
East and S.E. of the Sibou Islands ; it is described as a round, bluff rock.

Ambong Reef is placed on the chart 7 miles to the N. W. of Pulo Eu ; and
nearly in a line between them lie four small islets, or rocks above water,
named respectively Chupa, Chondong, Gantajig, and Belelei.
, Lima Island, lying about 1^ mile N.W. of Ambong Eeef, is nearly half
a mile in extent, and there are two rocks above water named Eaket, about
half a mile E.S.E. from it, another rock just to the northward of its West
extreme ; and another, named Sangul, nearly a mile W. by N. ^ N. from
it. They all appear to be connected, and surrounded to a short distance by
a reef.

SIBOU ISLANDS.— Sibou, lying about 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Tingy,
and the same distance from the coast, is a narrow island, 3 miles long N.W.
and S.E., and near its South end is a hill, 553 ft. high. A small island,
Middle Sibou, and two islets or rocks named respectively Sibou Kukus and
South Sibou, together with other rocks both above and below water, extend
in a south-easterly direction from Sibou, for a distance of 2 miles. The
western side of the group is dangerous to approach.

Sibou Channel, between Sibou and the main, is about 2^ miles wide in
the navigable part between the danger limits on either side, and perfectly
clear, with general depths of 6 to 8 fathoms, but of 9 or 10 fathoms near the
island.

PULO TINGY, in lat. 2° 18' N., long. 104° 9' E., is conspicuous from a
very high peak, which, rising gradually from the low land near the sea,
terminates at the summit in a sharp spire or cone, 2,046 feet high. The
island is nearly 4 miles long, N.W. by W. ^ W,, and S.E. by E. | E., and
2 miles wide.

A cluster of islets and rocks extend nearly 2 miles southward and south-
eastward from Tingy ; and on its East side, about half a mile off shore, is a
small island named Ibul, with an islet between it and the shore, and rocka
below water a short distance outside of it. About If mile off the North
part of Tingy is a reef, called the Gebang Roclcs ; and to the south-westward
of it is the Siam Enoll, of 3 fathoms, lying about 1 mile off the N.W. part
of Tingy.

Morau Rocks, or Arethusa Beef, appears to be a reef under water, extend-
ing to the northward and westward of a small islet, which lies 4f miles
N.N.W. from Sibou Island, and W. i S. from the peak of Tingy, nearly ia
mid-channel between Tingy and the main.

I. A. 3 r

402 GULF OF SI AM, ETC.

BABI ISLANDS. — Babi, or High Island, lying 9 miles N.W. from Pulo
Tingy, is 2i miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and three-quarters of a mile
broad. On its South end are two peaks, the northern one of which is 911
feet high ; some rocks appear to lie close to its southern shore. Middle Bahi,
an island about half a mile in extent, with several islets and rocks close to
it, Kes nearly 1 J mile north-westward of Babi ; and three-quarters of a mile
north-westward of Middle Babi, is a rather larger island, named North Babi.

Captain Ross, in the Phlegethon, in the month of August, having found that
the two watering places on the S.W. part of Pulo Tingy had dried up, pro-
ceeded to Pulo Babi, and found here three springs of clear fresh water, the
principal one on the N.W. point of the island, to the southward of a small
patch of mangrove jungle.

Tikus Rocks. — A rock above water, with small detached rocks around it,
lies 3:^ miles to the eastward of the southern part of Babi. Sakit Mata is
a rock awash, lying E. | N., distant nearly 2 J miles from the North point
of Babi.

Rawa is a small island, about half a mile in extent, lying 3^ miles North
from Babi, and 2\ miles N.E. from North Babi. From Eawa a chain of
islets and rocks extend 3 miles to the north-westward.

SIRIBUAT ISLANDS, bearing W. | S., 15 miles from the Asses Ears on
Tioman, and N.N.W. 7 miles from Gurong, appear upon the chart as two
islands, the eastern and larger being about If mile in extent. The western
island is a little more than half the extent of the eastern one, but is 748 ft.
high. The islands are connected by a reef, upon which are some islets and
rocks.

BLAIR Hk'R'ROJi'Bi.—Kahan Island, \\ mile long N.N.W. ^W. and S.S.E.
^ E., and but half a mile broad, lies W. by S. 6J miles from the Siribuat
Islands, and the space between its West side and a prominent point of the
coast named Peniabong Point, about a mile distant, is known as Blair Har-
bour. About a mile south-eastward of the South entrance of the harbour, is
a small group above and below water, named the Gading Rocks ; there also
appears to be rocks extending from the points on both sides of the South
entrance, thus materially contracting the channel. A small island, named
Little Kaban, lies about a mile northward of Peniabong Point ; other islets
and rocks lie to the westward of the point. North-westward of Kaban is a
group of islets and rocks named Tonos, and in the same direction, distant 2
miles from Kaban, is a small island named Leiar.

Blair Harbour is safe, sheltered from all winds, with anchorage in 4 and
4J fathoms, stiff mud. It is easy of access by passing between the North
point of Kan and the small islands, where the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms,
decreasing to 5 and 4^ fathoms inside. There is also good anchorage under
some of the other islands farther out.

Capt. Pridham, R.N., who touched here September 8th, 1830, discovered

INNER CHANNEL— PULO AOR. 403

a rock in the entrance of the harbour, which uncovers with the falling tide,
about half a mile South of Leiar Island.

Plenty of good water may be procured on Kaban Island by digging wells
6 ft. deep, about 20 or 30 yards from high-water mark.

The INNER CHANNEL, between the Malay coast and the groups of
islands just described, is safe for ships of any description by keeping along
the coast at 3 or 4 miles distance. The depths in it are 8 to 11 fathoms, in
the fair track, usually soft ground. The channel is safe in the day, but in
the narrow parts, among the islands, it is prudent to anchor at night, because
some of the rocks or islets are very little above water.

Tides. — About 20 miles to the southward of the entranse to the Inner
channel it is high water, full and change, at Q*" 14", and spring tides rise 6
to 8 ft. Near the Siribuat Islands it is high water at S** 50", and the rise
is 9 feet.

PULO AOR, the southern peak of which, 1,805 ft. high, is in lat. 2° 26^' N.,
long. 104° 34i' E., is generally adopted as a point of departure by ships
bound to China, and they also steer for it on their returning passage. It is
small, but high, and covered with trees. Being formed of two hills, with a
gap between them, it has the appearance of two islands when viewed at a
great distance, bearing N.E. or S.W., and resembles a saddle on a nearer
approach ; but when it bears N.W. the hills are in one. The easternmost
hill is of round form, like a dome, rather higher than the other, and in clear
■weather may be seen 45 or 48 miles from the deck ; at such times Bintang
Hill and Pulo Aor are visible together, when midway between them.

The bay on the S.W. side of the island aflfords shelter in the N.E. mon-
soon, when the wind is between North and E.S.E. ; and here, persons unac-
quainted with the entrance of Singapore Strait frequently anchor in dark,
hazy, blowing weather, until it becomes more favourable for running into
that strait. This has not been a common practice since the establishment
of the Horsburgh light at the entrance of Singapore Strait. Pinang Islet,
covered with trees, lies off the S.E. point of Pulo Aor, and Lang Islet lies off
the N.W. point ; to the N.E. of the latter is Dyang Islet, larger than the two
others, and separated from the North end of Aor by a narrow gut, having 18
or 19 fathoms water in it.

The depths near Pulo Aor are from 32 to 35 fathoms to the northward and
eastward, 24 and 25 fathoms to the westward, decreasing to 16 or 17 fathoms
towards Pulo Tingy, and to 21 fathoms close to the South end of Pulo
Pemangil.

Supplies. — Pulo Aor is inhabited, and there is a considerable number of
huts around the bay ; firewood and some cocoa-nuts may be procured, but no
other refreshments except water. Ships water with their own boats, for the
natives, although shy of strangers, are generally found to be inoffensive ; it
is, however, imprudent to let the sailors go up into the country.

404 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

There is a rise and fall of tide about 5 or 6 ft., although the current in the
offing sets mostly with the monsoon.

Directions. — li coming from the northward and intending to anchor in
the bay on the S.W. side of Pulo Aor during N.E. winds, pass on the West
side of the island, in order to fetch into the bay so far as the watering place,
which is a small running stream on its North shore. After rounding the
West side of the island, which is steep-to, at any convenient distance, haul
into the bay until Lang Island is on with the N.W. point, and anchor in 20
to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the extremes bearing from N.W. to S.E.
^ E., off shore about half a mile ; but sail ought to be reduced in timej
because from 20 fathoms the bank is steep, and it would be imprudent to
shoal under 15 fathoms in a large ship.

PULO PEMANGIL (or Pisang or Pamlelan) is distant 11 miles N.W. by
W. from Pulo Aor, which it resembles when seen in hazy weather bearing
to the S.W. or southward ; for it is formed of two hills with a gap between
them, giving it the appearance of a saddle, but it is not so high as Aor.
Its South peak, 1,507 ft. high, is in lat. 2° 34^' N., long. 104° 22' E. It is
said that water may be obtained upon Pemangil ; but ships seldom stop here,
for it is not inhabited, and consequently affords no supplies.

PULO TIMOAN, the South end of which is in lat. 2° 43' N., bearing
N.W. J W. about 22 miles from Pulo Aor, is 11 miles in extent, North and
South, and from 2 to 6 miles wide. This island is composed of lofty
mountains, the highest of which rises to an elevation of 3,444 ft. and may
be discerned 55 or 60 miles in clear weather. On its South end are two re-
markable peaks, called from their aspect Asses' Ears, standing on one base,
and rising almost perpendicularly from the sea to heights of 2,525 and 2,294
feet. There is a village on the S.E. side of the island in a small sandy bay,
which has ^anchorage in 20 or 22 fathoms, sand, and may be used during
fine weather ; but the bay on the S.W. side of the island affords the best
shelter in the N.E. monsoon.

Water ; Wood. — There is a small river on the East side of this bay, where
boats can fill their casks ; but a bar at the entrance prevents their going in
and out at low water. At a small rivulet on the N W. side of the bay, fresh
water may be filled at all times. Firewood may be procured in abundance
near the shore. Refreshments are not to be had here, the bay seldom being
inhabited. Ships seldom touch at this island, and persons landing on it
must be guarded against the deceit of the natives, and ought not to penetrate
into the interior.

The flood tide sets to the northward, along the West side of Timoan, and
the ebb to the southward, 1 or \h mile per hour, at times; it is high water,
fuU and change, at 6 hours, and springs rise 7 or 8 ft.

At 3 miles South of the Asses' Ears is a small island named Geeit, having
a small islet or rock close to the southward of it.

MAEGAEET SHOAL— PAHANG ETVEE. 405

Bara and Burong are two rocks or small islets, lying in the fairway of the
channel between Timoan and the Siribuat Islands. Bara lies 6 miles west-
ward of Geeit, with the Asses' Ears bearing N.E. by E. J E., distant 7
miles ; some rocks below water extend about a mile to the northward of
Bara. Burong is distant 10 miles N.W. I N. from Bara, the same distance
eastward of Timoan.

2hh'e is the largest of the islands lying oflF the N.W. point of Timoan, from
•which it is distant nearly 3 miles. It is about a mile in extent, and rocks
above and below water extend about a mile to the southward of it. The
channel between Tolie and the N.W. point of Timoan is clear, with depths
of 22 and 24 fathoms.

The COAST from Blair Harbour falls back 6 or 7 miles in a W.N.W.
direction to the Indau River ; it then takes a north-westerly direction for
9 or 10 miles to the entrance of the Pontean River ; from thence it curves
round gradually until it assumes a northerly direction, which it preserves as
far as the entrance of the Pahang Eiver, 48 miles to the northward of the
Pontean.

Boyah Rock. — Two small islets, named Duchong, lie nearly a mile off the
coast to the southward of the Pontean Eiver, and about 3 miles eastward of
them is the Boyah Rock, awash, with 4 and 5 fathoms water around. From
the rock the entrance of the Pontean bears W. i| N., 5 J miles ; the entrance
of the Indau S. by E. | E., 6 miles ; and the apex of the western Siribuat
Island W. by S. southerly.

MARGARET SHOAL, in lat. 2° 59^' N., long. 103° 38' E.— The brig Mar-
garet, in working to the northward along the coast, January, 31st, 1827,
shoaled suddenly from 6 to 4 and 3 fathoms, 3 miles off shore. There are
two conspicuous little hills on the low land, of regular form, the northern-
most of which bore W. by S., and the other S.W. by W., when the vessel
"was in 3 fathoms.

PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 18' N., long. 103° 38' E., is a barren rock 12 or
13 miles from the main, crowned with a few bushes, which in clear weather
may be discerned about 15 miles. There is a ledge of rocks even with the
water's edge, about 1^ or 2 miles nearly North from it, on which the sea
breaks in bad weather ; and about 6 miles North and N.N.E. of it there is
a rocky bank with overfalls, probably not dangerous, for the least water on
it is thought to be about 5 fathoms. The channel inside Varela is con-
sidered safe.

PAHANG RIVER, the entrance to which is in lat. 3° 34^' N., about 20
miles N.W. of Pulo Varela, was formerly a place of great trade, and is still
frequented by Chinese junks ; but it is small, very shoal, and contracted by
sands, which project from the low points on each side. Pahang Point bounds
the river on the South side, and has breakers stretching from it to the N.N.E.
nearly 1^- mile; a spit of hard sand, with 3 to 6 fathoms, extends about a

406 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

mile farther in the same direction, on the West side of which vessels of mo-
derate draught may anchor in 4| or 5 fathoms, clay and sand, off shore 1^-
mile, with Pahang Point bearing South or 8. i E, about 2i miles. Large
vessels anchor at a greater distance from the shore.

The COAST from the Pahang trends about N. by E. for a distance of 33
miles to a point in 4° 8' N., having high land near it, between which and
South Cape, about 14 miles farther to the northward, a bay is formed with
some islands close to the shore. From South Cape the direction of the coast
alters to about N. by W., as far as Tingeran, a distance of about 28 miles :
between are several bays, separated by Middle Cape and North Cape, all of
which have from 9 to 10 or 11 fathoms water within 2 or 3 miles of the shore,
but the projections or capes are rocky.

A chain of mountains commences inland, nearly abreast of Pulo Varela,
which converges towards the coast near South Cape, and then extends along
it towards Tringanu.

Between Pulo Varela and Tingeran the coast is, in general, safe to ap-
proach to 8 or 10 fathoms water ; but there are frequently overfalls of 1 or 2
fathoms in the oflB.ng, or ridges lying parallel to the coast ; and there are
some spots of 7 or 8 fathoms, sand and gravel, with 9 fathoms inside of
them, but this portion has not been properly surveyed.

HOWARD SHOAL was passed over by Mr. Howard, commanding the ship
Janet Button, in 1823, in lat. 4° 17' N., long. 103° 38J' E., bearing South
(or S. by W.) 30 or 31 miles from Pulo Brala, and S.E. | E. 6 miles from
the River Camaman. Upon this shoal he got 2 fathoms, rocks, and was in-
formed by the Malay fishermen that there was only 1 fathom on its centre.

Tingeran River, the entrance to which is in lat. 4° 49' N., is formed close
under the South side of Pocky Point, the latter being about 12 miles West
from Pulo Brala ; this river is barred by rocks.

PULO BRALA, in lat. 4° 49' N., long. 103° 38' E., distant 12 or 13 miles
from the main, is of considerable size, and may be seen 30 or 32 miles off in
clear weather ; when it bears S. f W. its summit is flat, but appears in hum-
mocks when bearing to the S.W. and westward. There is a black rock or
islet 1 or 2 miles distant from its southern extreme, and two islets off its
north-western extreme, the outer one being distant nearly 5 miles.

Between this island and the coast opposite, about Rocky Point, the sound-
ings are irregular in some places, and the bottom rocky or sandy.

PULO KAPAS is considered as the S.W. limits of the Gulf of Siam. Its
S.W. point is in lat. 5° 13' N., long. 103° 16' 4" E. ; it is H mile long,
North and South, three-quarters of a mile wide, and elevated 478 ft. A
large rock lies a cable's length N.W. of it. The island is fertile, and in-
habited by fishermen, who cultivate a few vegetables for their own consump-
tion. The channel, inside Pulo Kapas, between the island and main, is 2|-
miles broad, and quite safe.

TEINGANO HEAD— EEDANG ISLANDS. 407

TRINGANO HEAD, bearing W.N.W., distant about 3 miles from the
North point of Pulo Kapas, and S.S.E. ^ E. 6 miles from the entrance of
Tringano River, is remarkable as the only rocky point in the neighbourhood.
A rock awash at high water lies a quarter of a mile from the beach, and \^
mile to the southward of the Tringano Eiver entrance.

TRINGANO RIVER. — The entrance to this river may be easily known by
the large gap or opening in the coast line, as well as by a remarkable cone,
situated about 1 mile to the southward of the town. There is also in the
town a small steep hill, 100 ft. high, with a fort, on which the Eajah's flag
is displayed when a vessel passes within signal distance of the place.

The river has a bar, with 7 ft. over it low water. Within the bar, and
immediately off the town, there is good anchorage in 5 fathoms, but the
river itself above the town is very shallow. The Rajah is hospitable to
strangers, and the natives of the coast are friendly. Wood, water, and fresh
stock can be procured at reasonable rates.

It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Tringano River, at 8
a.m., and springs rise 7 ft.

EULO ROCKS. — The coast from the entrance of the Tringano trends north-
westward, and is low and slightly convex to Eulo Village, where the high
land approaches close to the beach. The Eulo Rocks, a small group of 6 ft.
elevation, lie immediately off the village, an eighth of a mile from the beach,
N.N. W. J W. 9 miles from the entrance of the Tringano River.

Seal Rocks consist of three distinct groups, the extremes of which lie
North and South, nearly a mile apart. The South Seal is elevated 9 ft.,
the other two groups only 3 ft. ; there are deep channels between them.
The South Seal lies nearly 2^ miles from Seal Bluff, and there is a good
channel between it and the blujff, with regular soundings. Care, however,
should be taken, when standing towards the bluff, to avoid a rock, awash at
low water, lying North a quarter of a mile from the bluff. Jiukit Trokit is a
rock, elevated 140 ft. above the sea, lying 4 miles northward of the Seal
Rocks. There is a rock, only 5 ft. high, nearly a mile westward of it.
House Rock, lying N.W. i N., lOj miles from Seal Bluff, is so named from
its appearance.

REDANG ISLANDS.— The Great Redang, the peak of which is in lat.
5° 48' 16" N., long. 103° 0' 48" E., is safe to approach on all sides. It is sur-
rounded by small islets and rocks, but they are all bold-to, and have gene-
rally good water inside them. There is plenty of wood and good fresh
water, and turtle may be caught in abundance on a beach at the North part
of the island. There is a fine bay on the North side and a small harbour
on the South side of the island. The harbour is protected to the southward
by Pulo Pinang, and, although small, might be useful to a ship in distress
or in want of repairs. There is a village on Pulo Pinang, and a few huta

408 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

scattered in different parts of the Great Eedang. The conical peak of the
Little Redang is 985 ft. high. All these islands are quite safe to approach.

PRINTIAN ISLANDS. — This group, lying about 15 miles north-westward
of the Great Redang, is also safe to approach. The channel between the two
large islands, although narrow, is quite safe for vessels with a leading wind.
There is good anchorage on either side of the channel, but the most secure
is to the southward. The islands are inhabited, but fresh water is scarce.

TURTLE-BACK ISLAND, so named from its peculiar shape, is elevated
346 ft., and bears N.W., distant 26 miles from Seal Bluff. The interme-
diate coast is low. Between Tringano and Turtle-back Island, at the dis-
tance of several miles inland, there are two ranges of high mountains ; the
northern one and nearest the coast is elevated 3,388 ft. The channel be-
tween Turtle-back and the Printian Islands, as well as the passage between
it and the main, is safe.

KALANTAN RIVER.— From Turtle-back Island the coast trends N.W. f
N. 30 miles to the East point of Kalantan Eiver. There are no dangers on
any part of it that are not apparent, and attention to the lead will always
indicate the distance from the land.

The Town of Kalantan stands on the right bank of the main river, 5 miles
fix)m the entrance, near the confluence of its delta, which consists of five
streams. The main river at the town is about 2 cables broad and 2 fathoms
dee^) : its banks here are very sandy. The town extends about a mile along
the river front, and seems to be densely populated. The greater part of the
population are Malays ; the remainder are Chinese ; Siamese were not seen.
The Rajah is a Malay, subject to the King of Siam ; both he and his people
are friendly and courteous to strangers. The whole delta of the river is very
fertile and highly cultivated. It produces immense quantities of cocoa-nuts,
and a great variety of fruits. Bullocks, sheep, goats, and fowls were plen-
tiful. Dollars are current.

The main branch of the river is the third stream from the eastern one, and
was said to have, in 1856, 9 ft. over the bar at high water springs. The delta
of the river is said to be continually altering during the N.E. monsoon.

Vessels approaching the river from the south-eastward will be guided to it
by three small hills, situated near the coast, 13 miles to the southward. Two
of these hills (close together) are called the Paps, and are elevated 300 ft. .
the third, named Wedge Hill, is elevated 400 ft., and separated a short dis-
tance. The Paps bearing S. by E. f E. will be in line with the sandy point
near the main entrance of the river.

The Coast for 25 miles westward from the main entrance of the Kalantan
has not been surveyed, but it is believed to be quite safe. It is all low land
for the above distance, at the termination of which there is a remarkable
conical hill standing on the coast line. This hill is elevated 1,158 ft., and

PULO LOZIN— CAPE PATANI. 409

bears S.E. by S. 17 miles from Baltu Rackil. Baltic Rackil, in lat. 6° 40' 36" N.,
long. lOr 43' 56" E., is a white rock, elevated 35 ft., and quite steep-to.

Hilly Cape is remarkable as the northern extreme of a chain of hills, which
rising far in the interior, and cutting the parallel of Kalantan 25 miles west-
ward of it, here jut out into the sea, and form an angle of the coast, remark-
able from its two steep bluffs. The easternmost of these bluffs bears from
Baltu Eackil N.W. J W. 15 miles.

Pulo lozin, in lat. T 21' N., long. 102° 1' 48" E., is 7 ft. above high water,
steep-to all around, and in size and appearance resembles a vessel of about
100 tons burthen bottom up.

The following information of the navigation of this part of the coast is
an extract from the Bangkok Calendar, 1873, and derived from the surveys
of H.S.M. surveying brig Enemy €haser, Capt. A. J. Loftus.

" From Hilly Cape to Ligor, vessels may safely approach the shore to a
distance of 4 miles, giving Cape Patani a berth of at least 3 miles, as there
are shoal sand patches, having 10 ft. of water, in that neighbourhood.
Patani Bay is quite choked up, and navigable only for small boats at high
water. There is no island existing off the end of Cape Patani, as shown on
the old charts. The mouth of Patani Eiver lies a little to the westward of
the meridian of the cape.

" Midway between Patani and Eow Island, and about 3 miles from the
shore, is a hard patch of ground, having 10 ft. of water on it. Pulo Ticos
and Pulo Kewshan may be approached on their eastern side as close as con-
venient, there being plenty of water and no hidden dangers near them.
Inside these islands the water is shoal, and not navigable for sailing vessels
of any size. Small vessels will find snug anchorage in 2h fathoms water,
bottom of mud, one-quarter of a mile off the S. W. end of Pulo Ticos. When
coming in, or leaving the inner roadstead, keep the South end of the island
(Ticos) close aboard. Large vessels will ride comfortably in 5 fathoms water,
with the South end of Pulo Ticos bearing westerly.

" The coast from here to the extreme North end of Pulo Tantalam is quite
clear, with good depth of water close-to, mud bottom. The coast line is not,
however, as represented on the old charts ; the extreme end of the Lamcolam
Pook being about 4 miles farther South, and ^h miles farther East, than is
there represented. The Pook itself is a narrow, curved spit of coarse sand,
being about 6 miles in length, and 300 ft. at its greatest breadth, and having
a compact cluster of young fir trees on its extremity, which may be seen at a
distance of 12 miles from the deck.

" The water is shoal off and around this point, and continues so to the mouth
of Ligor Eiver, which bears from the Pook about W. i N., distant of miles,
■when it gradually deepens to the northward. No hidden dangers have been
discovered from thence to lat. 10° 7' N.

1. A. 3 G

410 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

" Between the Pook and Ligor Creek the land forms a deep bight to the
southward, where a river named Pakinham, 1 J mile wide at its mouth, leads
to the inland sea in the same direction. This bight, like that of Patani, is
navigable only for small boats at high tide. To anchor in Ligor Roads,
round the Pook at a distance of 4 miles, steer to the westward, and bring
up according to draught. If coming from the northward, keep inshore, and
anchor in suitable water near the inner fishing stakes. Circumstances are
frequently favourable near the shore for vessels to beat down against the
S.W. monsoon."

SIX60RA. — The town of Singora stands just within the East point of the
river, and contains about 2,500 inhabitants. Its position may be known by
two small islands off the port, as well as from a remarkable piece of table
land at the entrance of the river opposite 4he town.

The anchorage for small vessels is in 17 ft. water, close inside the inner
island, called by the Malays Fulo Ticos. The river has a bad bar at its
entrance.

Wood and water may be purchased at the town, the latter from a spring
just within the bar of the river. Stock of every description is plentiful and
cheap.

The ISTHMUS of KRAW or Kraa (Monkey Isthmus) is probably the
narrowest portion of the Malay Peninsula. Its western side has been alluded
to in our Directory for the Indian Ocean,, page 1067. The eastern inlet is the
Champon or Tseoompyoon River, which has a bar with only 9 ft. over it at low-
water. A large town of the same name lies on its banks, 20 miles from its
mouth. The isthmus between this point and the village of Kraw on a branch
of the Pakchan Eiver falling into the Bay of Bengal, was traversed by
Captains Fraser and Forlong, under the direction of Col. Fytche, with a
view to discover whether it was available for a canal or railroad across. But
the desirability of this, although it may be practicable, is very questionable,
as two transhipments of goods, &c., would be required to save 93 hours be-
tween Calcutta and Hong Kong ; and, moreover, there are no good ports at
either end.

Koh Krah, in lat. 8° 24' 47" N., long. 100° 43' 30" E., is half a mile long,
a third of a mile broad, and 530 ft. high. Two high rocks, and a rock awash,
lie to the southward. A small quantity of stagnant fresh water may be
obtained on this island, and turtle are so plentiful that 150 have come up in
a single night.

The coast between Singora and Champon, 200 miles to the N.N.W., has
not been surveyed.

LEM CHONG P'RA, or Cape Chong P'ra, is a remarkable craggy head-
land of 1,060 ft. elevation, in about lat. 10° 54' N,, long. 99° 28' 10" E. A
narrow island, called Koh Buot, lies 2 miles south-westward of the cape, and
■within the island is a snug bay named Chong P'ra.

LEM TONG LAN— PRAN EOCKS. 411

lEM TONG LAN.— From Lem Chong P'ra, Lem Tong Lan bears N. by E.,
distant 18 miles. About midway within the bay, formed by these points,
is a level cliffy island, called Eoh Tin, 342 ft. high, and nearly \\ mile long.
There is no safe passage for vessels between Sing and Koh Tlu. Lem Tong
Lan is 814 ft. high, and the coast being very low within it, at a distance it
makes like an island. At 11 miles northward of Lem Tong Lan there is a
remarkable clump of conical hills, and a low dangerous island lies imme-
diately off them, at the distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore.

From Lem Tong Lan, Koh Chan, an island 80 ft. high, lying 4 miles off
the coast, bears N.N.E., and the distance is 27 miles, and to Koh Luem it is
37 miles, on nearly the same line of bearing.

KOH LUEM, 406 ft. high, is the outermost of several islands which lie
off the bays called Ao-ti-bon-lai (?) and Ao-ti-now (?).

Ao-ti-hon-lai, the northern bay, affords the best anchorage for ships.
W.S.W. 15 miles within the South horn of Ao-ti-now, is the mountain
named Kow Luang, elevated 4,326 ft., which is by far the most conspicuous
landmark on the whole coast.

KOH TA-KTJT, 300 ft. high, is I mile long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and a
quarter wide, lying about N.N.E. 28 miles from Koh Luem ; the coast be-
tween these islands is clear, and the soundings regular.

Samroiyot Hills. — Cui Point (corrupted by Europeans into Cin) is the end
of a spur running down from a remarkable clump of rocky hills near the
coast, called by the natives Samroiyot, or 300 peaks. At a distance their ap-
pearance is that of a serrated table island ; the highest peak is elevated 1,900
feet. Samroiyot is unlike any other land in the gulf, and all vessels bound
to Bangkok in the S.W. monsoon endeavoiir to make it.

Water. — The only fresh water to be obtained between Chong P'ra and
Cui Point is from wells, which have been provided at places convenient for
the use of native craft by wealthy benevolent Siamese.

PEAN ROCKS, two in number, and each 100 ft. high, bear N. f W. 17
miles from Koh Ta-kut. The village of Pran stands on the shore at the
entrance of a river 4 miles southward of these rocks.

Between Koh Ta-kut and the Pran Eocks is a dangerous rocky patch of
1 fathom water, from the centre of which the North patch of Koh Ta-kut
bears S. :^ E. 8 miles, and a remarkable head on the coast line "W.S.W. 2
miles. Vessels should not approach this part of the coast nearer than 2^
miles, nor stand into less water than 7 fathoms.

A small headland stands out prominently from the coast line at 2 miles
N. by W. from the North Pran ; and East three-quarters of a mile from the
centre of this headland is a rock which covers at haK flood.

CHULAI POINT is 34 miles N. f E. from the Pran Rocks. At 17 miles
N. by E. \ E. from the North Pran there is much rocky ground, and some

412 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

dano-erous patches of only 2 fathoms water lie 5 miles off shore; from the
outer patch Chulai Peak bears N.W. by W. | W.

When passing the neighbourhood of this rocky ground, it is recommended
not to approach the coast nearer than 6 miles, nor to stand into less water
than 7 fathoms.

The Coast about Chulai Point and to the northward of it is all very low.
The edi<^e of the bank extends a considerable distance from the shore and
is steep-to, especially off the village of Banlam, 8 miles northward of Chulai
Point, where there are only 2 fathoms at the distance of 3^ miles from the
shore.

Immediately round Banlam Point the low coast trends to the north-
westward, and the soundings in the offing become regular. From this point
along the head of the gulf to the bar of Bangkok Eiver the lead will b©
found a safe guide by day or night.

The town of Pechaburri is 8 miles up a river, the principal entrance to
which is 5i miles N.W. of Banlam Point. It is clean, well built, and
densely populated, the centre of a great rice-producing district, and evidently
of considerable importance. In point of climate it is preferable to Bangkok,
and more likely to agree with the constitutions of Europeans. The an-
chorage off the entrance of the river is far more sheltered in the S.W.
monsoon than that off the bar of Bangkok River, and cargo might be safely
embarked at all times.

EAST COAST OF THE GULF.

PULO OBI, the main island of the Obi group, lies about 11 miles S.E. by
S. of Camao Point, the south-western extreme of Cambodia, which bounds
the East side of entrance of the Gulf. The island is nearly 2J miles long
N.E. and S.W., and rather narrow near the middle, the widest and highest
part being the S.W., which is elevated 1,046 ft. From its S.W. end Camao
Point bears N.N.W. f W. 12 miles; and Hull Eock S.E. | E. 4 miles.
There are also two small islands within a mile of the S.E. point of Obi,
which contract the channel between them and Hull Eock to little more than
2 miles. The approaches to, and passages between all these islands, are quite
safe by keeping at a prudent distance from the shore.

The channel between Pulo Obi and the depth of 3 fathoms on the bank
extending from the coast of Cambodia, is rather less than 2 miles wide, has
6 to 15 fathoms in it, and is quite safe to navigate. Marsh Eeef, lying N. ^
W. 3 J miles from the North point of Obi, is a dangerous group of rocks
awash at low water.

There are two small pebbly bays, one on the N.W., the other on the S.K

PULO PANJANG. 413

side of Pulo Obi. The best anchorage is directly oflP these bays, on either
side of the island, according to the monsoon, at about half a mile from the
shore.

Frenh water is plentiful in the N.W. and S.E. bays, but the shores are not
convenient for embarking it. All the islands are densely wooded. No in-
habitants were seen.

M. Wj'st, commanding the Alan Prah, made some examination of Pulo Obi
in 1867. He found good anchorage off the S.W. side of the island, and
traces of human beings on the coast in the vicinity. The bay on the N.E.
side of the island he found to consist of two bays, the southernmost of which
has the deepest water, and is most frequented. In the valley extending from
the head of this bay was found a small chapel, said to be visited by Chinese
sailors at times.

PULO PANJANG, the main island of the Panjang group, is in lat. 9° 18'
14" N., long. 103° 28' 14" E. It is 3 miles long. East and West, 2 miles
wide, and of a nearly uniform height of 550 ft., making hke table land from
the sea in every direction. There are two small islands, having deep chan-
nels between them, at about a mile from its East end ; and one connected
with its South point. Besides these there is a large white rock, 75 ft. high,
S. by W. 1 J mile from its South point ; and two large rocks, named East
Island and Table Rock, elevated 110 and 40 ft. respectively, bearing from
the N.E. part of Panjang N.E. by E. 8^ miles.

During the N.E. monsoon the bay on the S.W. side of Pulo Panjang
affords capital shelter and good anchorage. Fresh water and wood can be
obtained in abundance in the bay, and fish may be caught in any quantity
with a seine. The anchorage on the S.E. side of the island is very in-
different. The island is not inhabited.

Caution. — Pulo Way, Veer Islet, Koh Prins, the Tanqualah group, and
the Depend Eeef, were regularly surveyed, and the soundings taken in the
neighbourhood seem to denote that the passages between them are safe ; but
as time woidd not permit these approaches from the northward and westward
to be sounded, caution must be observed when steering for them from those
quarters.

The channel between these islands and Koh Tron is believed to be quite
clear and safe.

PULO WAY, or Koh Kicang Noi, about 50 miles N.W. of Pulo Panjang,
consists of two islands about the same size, nearly the same height (250 ft.)
each beingjnearly 2 miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., and a quarter to three-
quarters of a mile wide. They are distant nearly a mile from each other.
East and West, and the channel between them is quite safe. A rock, ele-
vated only 3 ft. above high water, lies E. by S. three-quarters of a mile
from the East point of the eastern island ; and there is a dangerous patch
on which H.M.S. Saracen struck, with only 4 ft. on it, lying N. by W. ^ W.

414 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

three-quarters of a mile from the N. W. end of the same island. Good an-
chorage will be found oflP the North side of the eastern island, but the best
berth is off a sandy bay on the N.E. side of the western island.

The natives obtain their /resA ivater from a well about the middle of the
eastern island ; and from appearance, good water might be obtained in this
way on any part of either island at a moderate distance from the shore. The
islands are covered with wood ; the beaches afford turtle ; and a single cast
of the seine will generally procure a boat load of fish.

KOH TANG or Tanqualah Island, bearing N.N.E. | E., 2^ miles from
Pulo Way, is SJ miles long, very narrow, and has a peak rising to an eleva-
tion of 440 ft. near its North end. The fine clean sandy bay on its eastern
side will afford good anchorage in the S.W. monsoon.

DEPOND REEF, in lat. 9° 58^' N., long. 103° 7' 33" E., is about half a
cable's length in diameter, just awash at low water, steep-to on all sides,
and in fine weather might not be noticed until close upon it. From it the
peak of Tanqualah is faintly seen bearing N. i W., distant \^h miles ; and
the peak at the South end of the western Pulo Way is visible over the middle
of the eastern Pulo Way, W. by S. ^ S. nearly 14^ miles. The islands form-
ing Pulo Way are well in sight from an elevation of 15 ft.

Condor Reef.* — The Bremen barque Condor, 3rd February, 1860, was
totally lost on a sunken reef, said to lie in lat. 10° 42' N., long. 102° 48' E.
The reef was afterwards searched for by Lieut. Ellis, E.N., in the gunboat
Weazel, but without success, owing to rough weather. A patch of 9 fathoms
•with 15 to 20 around it was, however, found in 10° 41' N., 102° 51' E.

* Doubtful Dangers. — The following dangers may be considered not to exist, as,
coupled with the fact that they have been carefully and unsuccessfully searched for, there
are hundreds of vessels every year navigating in their vicinity without noticing their
existence : —

John Wade ifocA;.— Commander Fitzroj', of H.M. gun-vessel Avon, on a recent passage
from Singapore to Bangkok, passed over and carefully searched about the position ascribed
to the John Wade Eock, in lat. 10° 40' N., long. 101° 48' E., but no sign of danger could
be discovered. This very doubtful rock, on which the American ship of that name was
reported to have been lost at 3 p.m. on 26th March, 1858, has been frequently looked for in
other vessels with the like result, and its existence is altogether discredited by those accus-
tomed to the navigation of the Gulf of Siam.

Emanuel Beef, reported in 1862 by the French ship Emanuel, in lat. 11° 49' N., long.
101° 19' E., and with Chong Samit bearing N. \ E., was also searched for in the Avon with
no better success ; nothing like danger could be met with in the locality. Captain Bush,
harbour master at Bangkok, reports that after a careful search of nearly three days, under
very favourable circumstances, he was unable to discover anything like danger in the
vicinity, and is sure that the look-out man was deceived.

A shoal reported, in 1864, to lie in lat. 11° 59' N., long. 101° 10' E., was also passed over
in the Avon ; the soundings on and near the spot were 20 fathoms. This doubtful danger
appears to have found a place on the chart from verj' insufiicient data.

CAMBODIA POINT— FALSE PULO OBI. 415

Captain Thompson, of the brig Katinka, in March, 1872, saw the reef, which
he placed in lat. 10° 43' N., long, (by their good sets of observations)
102° 51' E. The most complete account is by Lieut. Yeron, of the French
navy, who examined the reef in the steamer Ze Frelon, who describes it as
follows : — Condor Reef is a rocky plateau half a cable in extent, and from
16 to 20 ft. below the surface, except at six points which rise above the
general level of the reef to within 6 to 1^ ft. of the surface. The shoalest
point is on the S. W. part of the reef ; from this point the depth increases in
the same proportion toward the North and South ; that is, 5A- fathoms at
110 yards, and 13 fathoms at 220 yards. Toward the East the depth in-
creases gradually to 13 fathoms at half a mile from the same point, but it
changes rapidly to 16 J fathoms outside of that distance. On the West side
the change is more rapid ; 6 fathoms of water is found at 55 yards, from
thence it increases rapidly to 1 6J fathoms, and 22 fathoms water is found at
3 cables West of the shoalest point. From the head of the reef or shoalest
spot the bearings true are as follows : The western island of the Koh-Samit
group, N, 37° E. The islet situated between the Koh-Kong and Middle
Island, N. 76° E. The highest peak of Koh-Kong S. 88° E. These bear-
ings give the position of the reef: Lat. 10° 43' 40" N., Long. 102° 53' 19" E.

Runs Heefis marked in lat. 10° 43' N., long. 102° 35'.

CAMAO or CAMBODIA POINT, the south-western extreme of Cambodia,
is low and covered with trees, and cannot be seen farther than about 9
miles from the deck of a small vessel. The edge of the bank off the point is
very steep-to, the soundings decreasing at once from 8 to 2 fathoms, which
latter depth will be found at the distance of 2 miles off shore. Abreast Pulo
Obi the edge of the bank is fully 5 miles off shore ; it is very steep also to
the eastward along its southern edge, and as several rocks have been found
within the 5 fathoms line, it will be prudent when passing not to go into less
than 8 fathoms water.

To the northward of Camao Point the soundings are regular, and the
coast may be approached with safety.

From Camao Point the land trends in an E.N.E. direction 17 miles to
the Camao River entrance, which is nearly dry at low water. Excepting tho
scattered huts of a few solitary fishermen, no signs of inhabitants were seen
near it.

From hence the coast takes a northerly direction to abreast Pulo Dama.
The land is all very low, with the exception of the Paps, two small rocky
bluffs, elevated 100 ft. on the coast line, bearing N.E. J E. 20 miles from
False Pulo Obi.

FALSE PULO OBI, bearing N.N.W. 2 W. 23 miles from Camao Point, is
three-quarters of a mile long, half a mile broad, elevated 500 ft., with cliffy-
sides, and steep-to all round. At 4 miles to the S.S.E. ^ E. is a small
rocky island, elevated 167 ft., with a ledge of rocks projecting a quarter of

416 GULF OF SI AM, ETC.

a mile from its East side. The channel between these two islands is quite
safe ; and there is a fine safe channel 12 miles wide, between them and the
main.

Pulo Dama is 3^ miles long, North and South, 1 mile wide, and near its
centre is a sharp peak, elevated 1,077 ft. Three small islands lie off its
North point, and there are also several off its S.E. end. No fresh water,
and no inhabitants.

Tammassou is a high table island, elevated 1,390 ft., with steep cliffy
sides, bearing about E.N.E. 16 miles from Pulo Dama. The island is safe of
approach in every direction. A little fresh water was found on it.

Teeksou Island, N.E. | E. 13 miles from Tammassou, is of conical form,
and elevated 1,380 ft. There is no passage for ships to the eastward of this
island.

Teksia Peak is a cone of 810 ft. elevation, bearing N.N.E. 7 miles from
Teeksou, and remarkable as the first high land on the main seen on ap-
proaching from the southward. Between this peak and Teeksou there is an
anchorage for large trading junks, whose cargoes are brought out from the
neighbouring town in the flat boats of the country.

TABLE HEAD is a rocky headland, elevated 600 ft., bearing W. by N.,
15 miles from Teksia Point. The coast between foi'ms a deep sandy bay,
having several small rivers falling into it. This bay is very shoal ; and a
dangerous rock, awash, lies S.E. ^ S. 4 J miles from Table Head.

TEKERE or MINGHUE, a cone-shaped island, elevated 1,120 ft., and
bearing S.W. J S. 8 miles from Table Head, is the largest of an archipelago
of islands and rocks, that extend westward and south-westward from Table
Head. There are two islets, named Outer Island and Shark Island, to the
south-westward of Tekere ; and there is one also, called West Island, lying
about midway between Tekere and the Twins, in the fairway channel for
vessels approaching Cancao from the southward.

CANCAO RIVER has on either side of its entrance high bluffs, which,
together with the gap dividing them, are remarkable from the westward :
and from this direction the town of Cancao, which stands at the entrance,
may be seen at the distance of 6 or 7 miles. The anchorage off the town is
good, and the soundings regular. In working up to it from "West Island,
care should be taken not to make too free with the islands on either hand ;
many of them being surrounded by dangerous rocks.

Cancao, named on the French charts Hatien, is said to have a population
of 8,000. The entrance of this river now belongs to the French, having been
recently ceded to that government by the King of Cambodia. There is a
large fort in front of the town to seaward to defend the entrance of the
river. This river communicates by a canal with the great Cambodian river
Makiang, and is the route by which the produce of the interior is brought
down to the coast. Some native boatmen assured a French missionary

KOH TRON. 417

iresident at Kamput that there is a 13-feet channel into the Cancao River.
Lieut. Richards only found 7 ft. at high water. Government boats were
sent out to warn the Saracen oflF, but it was done with civility. The fort
occasionally fires on merchant vessels passing near.

As no European vessel is allowed to anchor off Cancao, they are obliged
to rendezvous at Kamput, to which anchorage their cargoes are convej'ed in
Cancao junks.

Between Cancao and Kep Point, 10 miles to the north-westward, the coast
is only navigable for junks. There is no safe passage for ships inside the
Pirate Islands ; the Saracen grounded twice in making the attempt.

Anchorages. — Mr. Brown, commanding the English brigantine Acis,
January, 1860, recommends the following anchorages to vessels bound to
Cancao, the approaches to which are marked on the chart. That eastward
of Great Pirate Island will be most useful to vessels trading with Cancao in
the S.W. monsoon. The anchorage eastward of North Pirate Island may
also be of service to vessels of light draught in the same monsoon, and so
may that under the South side of Peaked Island in the N.E. monsoon ; but
it is to be feared that the channels leading to the two latter anchorages will
.be found rather intricate. A 2§- fathom shoal is reported by Mr. Brown as
extending 2^ miles W. by N. from North Pirate Island ; and he further
states that he found a 4|-fathom channel between Ragged Rock and the
nearest Pirate Island, where 2f and 3J fathoms are marked on the chart.

The anchorage under the South side of Peaked Island is stated to be the
best in the N.E. monsoon for vessels that have sometimes to receive cargo
both from Kamput and Cancao. A vessel of large draught should approach
this anchorage from the westward, by the main channel about 3 miles West
of the Pirate Islands.

East and West Brother are two small islands, 473 and 406 feet respec-
tively in height, lying off the South point of Koh Tron. They bear nearly
E.N.E. and W.S.W. from each other, and are 3 miles apart.

KOH TRON, called by the natives JToh Dud, is of a triangular form, 26
miles long, North and South, and 14 wide at its broadest part, which is
near the North end. Along its N.E. side is a mass of high table land,
elevated about 1,600 ft. ; farther southward is a remarkable quoin-shaped
hill, and there are some remarkable conical hills and bluffs at the South end
of the island. There are also some hills of moderate height near the N.W.
point ; the remainder of the island is low. The eastern shore is dangerous
to approach, it being fringed with coral reefs and sunken rocks, but the
island is quite clear of danger in every other direction. Eresh-water streams
abound, especially along the eastern shore.

Directions for South Channel to Kamput.— The Brothers, with Pulo Dama,
are the chief guides when bound to Kamput from the southward. Vessels

LA. 3 H

418 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

intending to take the South channel to Kamput may, if necessary, pass
northward of the Brothers, but they should not approach Eound Hill Point
(the South point of Koh Tron) nearer than 3 miles, as a rocky ridge with 2J
fathoms on it extends E.S.E. 2| miles from the point.

The eastern shore of Koh Tron, particularly from abreast Pulo Cici to its
North point, is very dangerous. In standing towards the Koh Tron shore,
always tack when the soundings deepen suddenly. Pulo Cici, or the Twins,
are two small islets covered with trees, and connected together by a reef of
rocks; the northern islet is 213 ft. high. A vessel ixay pass at a mile on
either side of them.

Caution. — Between Koh Tron and Pulo Cici lies the Rosita Hock, on which
an English schooner of that name struck. It is of coral, half a cable's length
in diameter, of only 2 ft. water, and steep-to on all sides, but may be seen
at a short distance from aloft by the discoloured water. The high Twin
bears from it S.E. by E. 4J miles ; South Pirate Island, E. f S. ; Grunung
Susu or Paps, 300 ft. high (about a mile North of Bumbi Bluff), N. ^ W. ;
and Byoot Peak, 1,608 ft. high (near the N.E. point of Koh Tron), N.W. by
W. J W., westerly.

North Channel to Kamput. — For all large vessels the channel northward
of Koh Tron is recommended, as the water is deep and the soundings regu-
lar. Caution should be used in standing towards the edge of the North
bank near the western entrance of the Kamput River, as it is steep-to and
rocky. The ground is also foul at the North point of Koh Tron. A number
of large rocks 20 ft. high extend about 2 cables' lengths from the point,
having others near them under water.

The western entrance of the North channel between "Water Island and
Koh Tron, is 2| miles wide, but there is a large flat rock just within it, and
lying North half a mile from the N.W. point of Koh Tron ; and a rocky
island covered with trees lies W. by S. 1^ mile from the same point. There
are also two other small rocky islands to the southward of the entrance.

In passing through this channel vessels should not, if possible, pass inside
Flat Rock or any of the above small islands, as the ground is foul between
them and Koh Tron, and the set of the tides irregular.

The Anchorage off Kamput is in 4 fathoms, with Bumbi cone in line with
the Paps, N. % W., and Kep Peak E. f S. Bullocks, pigs, fowls, ducks, and
eggs were purchased very cheap. Of vegetables there were great variety,
and the market had a good supply of fruit. Wood was plentiful ; water can
be obtained from wells near the town, but it is muddy and bad, and pro-
cured with great difficulty.

Good anchorage will be found on the N.W. side of Water Island in 4
fathoms water, at a quarter of a mile from the shore ; and all vessels in-
tending to remain any length of time at Kamput would do well to anchor
here and complete their water. The watering place is in a sandy bay on

BAY ISLAND— KUSEOVIE ROCK. 419

the N.W. side of the island ; there is a fine running stream, and as the
beach is very steep, the water is easily embarked. This bay is also a good
place to haul the seine.

BAY ISLAND. — Sailing from Kamput to the westward, after passing
Water Island, and a shallow inlet in the bight of the bay to the northward
of it, Bay Island will become conspicuous from its position, as well as com-
parative magnitude. It is 2J miles in diameter, elevated 380 ft., and its
outer or South point bears \Y. by N. J N. 13 miles from the southern extreme
of Water Island.

Kapongsom River. — From Bay Island the coast trends to the northward
towards the estuary of the Kapongsom River, which is 13 miles wide, and,
as far as it was examined, quite safe. The deep water appeared to be along
the southern shore.

RONG SAM LEM, the southernmost of a chain of islands that front the
estuary of the Kapongsom, is 5 miles long, North and South, elevated 780
feet, and its shores are steep and quite safe of approach. On its N.E. side
there is a fine bay, named after the Saracen, which indents the island so
deeply as almost to divide it into two parts, and affords good anchorage for
the largest vessels. Wood and fresh water may be had in abundance at the
head of the bay, but it is easier procured just without the bay to the north-
ward, where the beach is steep-to. Between Rong Sam Lem and the nearest
point of the main, a distance of 9 miles across, may be considered the proper
entrance into the estuary of the Kapong.som.

KOH RONG, lying 2i miles northward of Rong Sam Lem, is 8 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and 5 broad. The greater portion of the northern end of
this island consists of table land, the highest part of which, elevated 1,158
feet, descends with a slope to the southward, and rises again near the
southern extreme, where it terminates in a sharp peak. Its shores are
generally steep and foul.

There are no inhabitants on any of these islands.

The channel between Koh Rong and Rong Sam Lem is quite safe,
although generally rocky ground and unfit for anchorage.

Koh Samit, H tdx^Q long, 1 mile broad, and elevated 400 feet, is the
southernmost and largest of a chain of islands and rocks that front the coast
for 12 miles northward of Samit point. There is a deep-water channel in-
side all these islands. The highest and most remarkable hill about this
part is elevated 1,155 feet, and is named the Quoin, from its peculiar wedge
shape.

KUSROVIE ROCK, in lat. \V 6' 25' N., long. 102° 47' 49' E., and distant
about 17 miles from the nearest part of this coast, is about three-quarters of
a cable's length in diameter, and 36 ft. high, without a particle of vegetation
on it. Its sides are shelving, and isolated rocks extend half a cable's length
from it. The bottom can be plainly seen near it in 6 fathoms.

420 GULP OF SIAM, ETC.

Ellen Bangka Shoal. — The commander of the Netherlands India barq-ne
Ellen Banglca reports that his vessel, whilst under sail on the 12th November,
1870, in the neighbourhood of the Kusrovie Eock, struck twice on a shoal,
on which there was only 1 1 ft. water. The vessel was at that time North, b
or 6 miles from the Kusrovie Rock, which was visible from the deck. The
danger has accordingly been placed in lat. 11° 11' N., and long. 102° 47' E.
( rhe London and China Telegraph of March 14th, 1871.)

KOH KONG is a level table island, 11 miles long, North and South, 4
miles wide, and elevated 1,500 ft. It has some fine sandy beaches along its
western shore, which is steep-to, and quite safe of approach, but 'fhe island
offers no sheltered anchorages or other advantages to shipping. There are
no inhabitants.

Within Koh Kong there is a large shallow baj', into which numerous email
rivers disembogue ; but they are generally unapproachable.

The main land within Koh Kong is very low as far as visible to the east-
ward, but it rises to the northward with great regularity until it joins the
high table land abreast Koh Kut.

Two rivers of considerable magnitude enter the sea a short distance north-
ward of Koh Kong ; the northernmost river is called Klong Koh Kong.

The COAST, from the Klong Koh Kong, takes a N.N.W. * W. direction
40 miles to Tung Yai Bay, and is quite safe to approach with regular
soundings. With the exception of two rocky bluffs, the land near the sea
is low, and fringed by a straight sandy beach ; parallel to the coast, at the
distance of 2 or 3 miles inland, a table land rises with great regularity to the
height of more than 2,000 ft. One of its highest points was found to be
elevated 4,000 ft.

Tung Yai Bay affords good anchorage, but the eastern shore must be ap-
proached with caution, as several rocks lie nearly a mile off it. A small
stream, the Tung Yai Eiver, falls into the head of the bay, but it is only
navigable for boats. Lem Nam, forming the western point of entrance of
Tung Yai Bay, makes like a low woody island from the southward. From
thence the coast takes a W.N.W. direction 20 miles to Lem Ling, or Junk
Point, and is fronted all the way by an extensive flat named Tung Yai Bank.
A small mangrove islet lies close to Lem Ling, and the ground is foul for
some distance off it ; but Lem Ling is quite clear to the S.W.

KOH KUT, lying 16 miles off the coast between the parallels of 11° 34'
and 11° 46', is a high level island, with steep, cliffy sides. There are two
small conical peaks near its South end, the highest of which (the northern)
is elevated 1,171 ft. The island has no permanent inhabitants Good an-
chorage will be found in a bay near the N.W. end of Koh Kut, with a fine
stream of fresh water running into it.

KOH MAK, lying 3 miles N.W. of Koh Kut, and S.S.E. 7 miles from Koh
Chang, is 3 miles in diameter, and very low, excepting at its West end, which

KOH CHANG-CHENTABUN EIVER. 421

presents a rocky head to seaward, elevated 300 feet. It is inhabited by
fishermen engaged in collecting biche-de-mer.

KOH CHANG, 16 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and 6 miles wide, consists
of a mass of peaked hills intersected by rocky and precipitous ravines. The
highest part of the island (a table peak near its centre) is elevated 2,446 ft.
Notwithstanding the numerous islands and rocks that fringe Koh Chang, no
dangers were discovered near its shores but what were apparent. There is
a native government station at a low jutting point on its eastern side, with
about twenty persons, who are the only inhabitants. Tigers are said to be
numerous. Fresh water can be obtained on the western side of Koh Chang,
about 3 miles from the North point.*

The Coast from Lem Ling trends N.W. 3 N. 21 miles to Lem Sing, which
forms the western side of entrance to the Chentabun Eiver. The shore be-
tween is low mangrove ; but a short distance from it, and 5 miles from Lem
Sing, are three small, high islands. There is also a large river at the dis-
tance of 6 miles northward of Lem Ling.

ALABASTER ROCKS, in lat. 12° 20' N., long. 102° If E., 7^ miles
S. by W. from the entrance of the Chentabun River, were examined and
their positions determined by Mr. Alabaster, of H.M. Consulate, Bangkok,
who describes them as two small rocks, about 40 ft. apart, lying N. by E.
and S. by W. from each other. The southern and larger one is, at low
water spring tides, about 14 ft. long by 5 broad, and 3 ft. above the sur-
face of the sea ; the northern one is smaller, and shows but 2 ft. above
water. From the Alabaster Eocks Cone Island bears N. ^ W., westerly ;
the summit of Khao Sabap mountain, N.E. f N. ; the southernmost of three
small islands, N.E. by E. ^ E. ; and Table Peak, the highest part of Koh
Chang, S.E.

The Allan Prah, on her voyage from Saigon to Bangkok, saw a rock in lat.
12° 2bh' N., long. 101° 39iy E., which position was determined by bearings.

CHENTABUN RIVER.— The position of this river may be recognized from
a distance by a mountain called Khao Sabap, which rises to an elevation of
2,090 ft N.E. by E. 9 miles from its entrance ; also by Lem Sing, which at
a distance appears like an island, and may be further known by a conical
islet, named Cone Island, 405 ft. higli, lying a mile westward of it, as well as
by a remarkable white cliff on its eastern face.

The eastern side of entrance begins at Koh Chula or Bar Island, between
which and Lem Sing is the channel into the river, with 13 ft. in it at low

* Doubtful Baiujers. — -ome of the old manuscript charts show a sunken rock midway be-
tween the Kusrovie Rock and the South point of Koh Kut ; and another 24 miles West of
the North point of Koh Chang. The Saracen passed over these positions without meeting
any token of their existence, but caution is recommended to all vessels passing their neigh-
bourhood.

422 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

water, but as it is only a quarter of a mile wide, it would be necessary to
warp a large vessel in against a head wind. Vessels can ascend the river as
far as the fork, which is within 10 miles of the town. A convenient an-
chorage without the bar is, with Koh Chula N.E. by E., distant about half
a mile- Fresh stock is scarce, but an abundance of good water may be pro-
cured in a small bay westward of Lem Sing.

It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Chentabun, at
lO*" 0", and the rise is 5 J ft. The highest tide took place on the day after
the change.

Koh Samit, 377 ft. high, bears W N.W. 52 miles from the North end of
Koh Chang. It lies off Lem Ya, from which it is separated by a channel,
called CJiong Samit, 1^ mile mile, with a depth in it of 3 fathoms.

Mr. Alabaster reports that the native pilots declare a rock exists in Chong
Samit, towards the western end of the strait, about mid-channel ; their direc-
tions for avoiding it are — " It, on entering the strait from the westward,
Koh Plateen is sighted, stand over close to the main land ; if Koh Plateen
is not sighted, keep as near as possible to the island."

LEM YA may be known by a clump of conical hills extending from it 15
miles inland ; the highest, which is the northernmost, is elevated 2,470 ft.
On each side of this headland the coast is low. The bay to the westward is
slightly concave, and fringed with a sandy beach to Lem Sahemsan, or Cape
Liant. The bay to the eastward has several small islands in it.

Mr. Alabaster also reports that the native pilots say a rock, named Hin-
ai-eorp, lies in about lat. 12° 35i' N., long. 101° 46J' E., in a direct line be-
tween the island of Mon-KIang and the small bay on the main named Tung
Kaben, about 5 miles distant from the latter.

CAPE LIANT or Lem Sahemsan. — On approaching this cape from the
southward, the outer islands off it, Chuen and Me-san, being the highest land
in the neighbourhood, will be first seen. Hin Chalan, in lat. 12° 27' 46" N.,
long. 100° 58' 29" E., will not be observed until it is within the distance of 5
miles ; it is a white rock 40 ft. high, a cable's length in diameter, very steep-
to, and quite safe to approach.

The channel between Hin Chalan and Chuen is 2^ miles wide, and quite
clear. The channel between Chuen and Me-san is a mile wide ; and there
is also a channel between Cape Liant and Koh Riat, but it is only a quarter
of a mile wide, and although much used by small vessels, is dangerous during
spring tides, and certainly should never be attempted by a sailing vessel,
without a fair and commanding breeze. All these channels seem to be re-
markably clear of danger.

Sheltered Bay, at 3 miles north-westward of Cape Liant, is about 4 miles
wide and 2 deep, with good anchorage all over it. Koh Yoh, the outer island
off its entrance, is remarkable from its resemblance to an erect triangle.
The eastern born of this bay may be known by a remarkable cone 454 ft. in

KOH LUE:\[— KOH SI-CHANG. 423

height. Lem Putaii, the N.W. point of Sheltered bay, is a bold bluff head-
land of 600 ft. elevation, and close round it, to the northward, is a bay,
called Tung Kitea. Fresh water can be obtained in the S.E. corner of this
bay.

Tung Plong Bay lies 1 mile northward of Tung Kitea, and being shel-
tered by Koh Kram and Koh Ira, offers secure anchorage to vessels detained
in the channel.

A remarkable rock, called Sombrero, lies three-quarters of a mile from the
S.E. side of Koh Kram, and the channel between it and Koh Ira is about a
mile wide. The Sombrero should not be approached closely to the northward,
as there is much foul ground for a considerable distance in that direction.

Koh Kram, lying 9 miles north-westward of Cape Liant, is 3 miles long,
North and South, and 2 miles wide. There is a remarkable sharp peak of
704 ft. elevation on its S.E. side, and a bay on its N.W. side; its western
shores are quite safe to approach, but reefs extend three-quarters of a mile
from its eastern, and half a mile from its southern shores.

KOH LUEM, or Pilot Island, bears N.N.W. ^ W. 16 miles from the
N.W. point of Kroh Kram ; along this line runs a chain of small islands,
called Ein, Kring Badung, Mana Mechy, and the comparatively large island
of Pai, which is 2 miles long and 1 mile wide. The channels between all
these islands are free from danger.

Koh Luem, three-quarters of a mile long, North and South, and half a
mile wide, is as steep as a wall to the southward and westward, and rises
from the sea bold and cliffy all around, its peak of a dome-like appearance,
and 445 ft. high, being in lat. 12° 57^' N., long. 100° 38' 59" E. This island,
from its conspicuous and peculiar position, has long been considered the
principal landmark at the head of the gulf ; all vessels bound to the Me-nam
make it, and taking their departure from it, run boldly for the anchorage off
the bar by day or night.

KOH LAN, lying E. by S. 7^ miles from Koh Luem, is 2J miles long, a
mile wide, and has a remarkable sharp peak, elevated 685 ft. On its eastern
side is a village, containing about 200 inhabitants.

The Coast between Tung Plong Bay and Koh Klet-keo, 4 miles to the
northward, is high, presenting rocky bluffs to seaward, with sandy bays be-
tween. Lem Pataya is N. ;^ E. 9 miles from IQet-keo, and E. by S.2f miles
from East Lan, the small island off the East side of Koh Lan. One mile
E. by S. of East Lan there is a rocky bank about a cable's length in extent,
with 3 ft. on it, which narrows the channel between it and Lem Pataya to
1^ mile. From Lem Pataya, Lem Kican bears N.N.E. ^ E. distant 3^- miles,
and Lem Kra-lang N. | E. 9^ miles.

KOH SI-CHANG.— W.N. W. 4 miles off Lem Kra-bang commences the
Koh Si-Chang Group, between which and the coast there is a clear channel,
Koh Si-chang, the largest of the group, is 3^ miles long, North and South

424 GULF OF SIAM, ETC.

1 mile broad, and its peak, which rises at the North end of the island to an
elevation of C97 ft., bears N.E. by N. loj miles from Koh Luem. An island
named Kanghu, with a sharp peak 325 ft. high, lies one- third of a mile off
the South end of Koh Si-chang, and a rock 10 ft. high, like the hull of a
ship, about two-thirds of a mile off the North end ; an island, also, called
Koh Kam, and three islets, lie off the N.E. side ; the western side is quite
clear. E. by N. half a mile from the rock 10 ft. high, is a rock with only 4
feet water on it ; and there is another with 3 ft. N.N.W. one-third of a mile
from the North point of Koh Kam.

The bay on the N.E. side of Koh Si-chang affords anchorage partly shel-
tered by Koh Kam and the islets to the eastward. The village on the South
shore of this bay probably contains about 200 inhabitants, who appear less
shy of foreigners than the natives of the coast to the southward.

SI-MA-HA-RA-CHA.'^'— Koh Si-ma-ha-ra-cha is a rocky islet, about 90 ft.
high, lying aoout a third of a mile from the coast, N.N.E. \ E. 6^ miles
from Lem Kra-bang, and East 6| miles from the North point of Koh Si-
chang. The town of Si-ma-ha-ra-cha stands on the shore about S.E. half a
mile from the islet, and contains 500 inhabitants ; and the town of Bang Pra,
about 3 miles to the northward, has about 1,000 inhabitants. The latter
town cannot be approached nearer than 2 miles by a vessel of large draught.

With Si-ma-ha-ra-cha bearing E. by N. half a mile, in SJ fathoms at low
water, or for a large vessel a quarter of a mile farther out on the same line
of bearing in 4 fathoms, is apparently the best anchorage at the head of the
gulf, for communicating with the shore, for it is better sheltered than any
other part.

Supplies. — Fresh water is abundant on shore when the springs elsewhere
are dry, and the towns of Si-ma-ha-ra-cha and Bang Pra could furnish large
quantities of fresh stock. At the distances of half and three-quarters of a
mile southward of Bang Pra are two fine streams of water that run into the
sea through the beach, and the natives say that they are never dry, even in
the hottest seasons. A boat might fill from these streams at high water, but
at low tide the sands dry out so far that they could not be approached within
half a mile.

BANG-PASOI. — From Si-ma-ha-ra-cha the coast curves round to the
northward, and at the distance of 8 miles is Double Head (native name Lem
SamooJc, the Nose Point), a prominent bluff rising from the low land to the
height of 270 ft., and appearing at a distance like an island. At 2 miles
north-eastward of Double Head stands the village of Anhin (a royal watering
place), and 4 miles E.N.E. of Anhin, in the depths of a shoal muddy bight,
is the large town of Bang-Pasoi, a place of considerable importance. The

* Si, lieautiful ; niaha, great ; racha, royal, in Pali.

THE BANG-PA-KONG RIYER— BANGKOK EIVER. 425

town is governed by a high noble, and has a good market, but unfortunately
it is only accessible from the sea at high water.

The BANG-PA-KONG EIVER empties itself into the gulf at 4 miles north-
ward of Bang-Pasoi, and appears to be a fine navigable stream ; from hence
to the Me-nam entrance the coast is all low mangrove.

ME-NAM CHAU-PHYA or Bangkok River has on the western point of
entrance a clump of high trees like a small mound, elevated about 30 ft.
above the surrounding mangrove, and this is the first land seen on approach-
ing from the southward. From this mound Pilot Island or Koh Luem bears
S. I E. 34^ miles; Double Head, S.E. by E. 22J miles; and Koh Si-chang
Peak S.E. by S. 25 miles.

LIGHT. — A pile lighthouse is erected on the western side of a sand-bank,
inside the bar of Bangkok Eiver, and from it, in the year 1874, a, fixed bright
light was shown at an elevation of 44 ft., visible 10 miles off. The lighthouse
lies 3 miles S. by E. h E. from the West entrance point of the river, and in
lat. 13° 29' 26" N., long. 100'' 35' 20' E.

The river is deep and free from shoals for a distance of 60 miles. At about
3 miles within the entrance, on the eastern bank, is Pahiam, where vessels
must anchor to discharge guns and ammunition, and take on board a custom-
house officer. Here is a fair market, from which vessels remaining at the
bar anchorage can obtain their daily supplies of fresh food, but it is con-
sidered better to send to Bangkok for stock for a voyage.

Paklat Lang, on the western bank of the river, 4 miles above Paknam, is
the entrance to a canal which saves a circuit of nearly 10 miles to boats pro-
ceeding to or from Bangkok ; ships must take the circuitous route by the
river. The entrance is marked by a guard-house on each side, and its vici-
nity may be known by a long range of batteries half a mile above on the
same side of the river. The canal re-enters the river alongside some floating
houses at the small village of Paklat Bon.

BANGKOK, the capital and seat of trade of Siam, is about 25 miles from
the sea, following the river course, or about 14 miles direct. The first im-
portant objects seen, in approaching the city, are the American consulate on
the West, Puddicombe's ship-building yard and Russell and Co.'s godowns
on the East. Above these are some handsome temples, the French consulate
and cathedral, the custom-house, British and Portuguese consulates, and the
godowns of some English merchants, all on the East bank ; the only con-
spicuous object on the other side being a fort nearly opposite the British con-
sulate. Beyond this the river on either bank is lined with floating houses,
over which can be seen thick clusters of wooden houses built on piles, and
several magnificent temples. The second creek above the British consulate
leads to the Sampeng Bazaar, an extensive and well-supplied market. Far-
ther on is the walled city, on the East bank ; and in the opposite suburb are

I. A. 3 I

426 GULF OF SI AM, ETC.

some European stores and lodging-houses, the palaces of the Pra-klang and
Kalahome, the old British factory, palace of the Kromma Luang, several
European merchants' residences, and some temples, one of them a lofty py-
ramidal building, above which vessels seldom anchor.

In the city itself are many temples conspicuous for beauty. The palaces
of their Majesties the First and Second Kings are extensive buildings, with
a long river frontage furnished with elegant and commodious landing-stages
ior royal use. Floating-houses continue for 3 or 4 miles above the First
King's palace, with few interruptions. The population of Bangkok is esti-
mated at 300,000.

'* In running for the anchorage oflP Bangkok Eiver, make Koh Luem, and
from that departure steer boldly up, allowing for a westerly set, according
to the strength of the N.E. monsoon. The lighthouse will be seen before
the land is made, and is an excellent guide for running in ; bring it to bear
North, and run for it, keeping the lead going, and anchor according to the
draught of the ship. During the N.E. monsoon the land is generally ob-
scured by smoke, so that the lighthouse will be the only mark to show the
mouth of the river. Anchorage during the N.E. monsoon, lighthouse bearing
N. 35° W. ; during the S.W. monsoon, lighthouse bearing N. 17° E. Pilot-
boats cruise between Koh Luem and the bar, having competent Europeaa
pilots on board ; they generally anchor vessels in about 6 fathoms water,
with the lighthouse bearing as above, according to the season, and distant
about 6 miles." — Lieut. Nichols, V.S.N., 1873.

Owing to the shifting nature of the bar, it is not safe to enter without a
pilot. The pilot boats carry a flag red and white horizontal.

It should be borne in mind that the soundings become hard when nearing
the East banks, which are composed principally of sand, and very soft when
nearing the West flat, which is all soft mud.

Lieutenant Ellis, in 1868, examined the entrance, and searched in vain for
the four piles of stones sunk across the mouth of the river, and said to have
as little as 3 ft. over them. He found one mass of stones about two-thirds
of the way across the channel on the eastern side, but over which there was
1^ fathom at low water; he could find no less water anywhere about the
entrance.

The lest anchorage off the bar for communicating with the shore is in 3^
fathoms, with the two river points well overlapping, and the West point
mound bearing N. I W. or North, distant 6^ miles.

Caution. — Approaching the bar of the Bangkok Eiver from the southward
in the N.E. monsoon, it will be necessary, when near the head of the gulf,
to allow for a westerly current which occasionally runs ^-ith great strength
along the edge of the bank, and vessels set to leeward by it have found con-
siderable difl&culty in regaining the anchorage. For this reason boats work-

BANGKOK. 427

ing out of the river should not attempt to cross the bar before they can make
sure of fetching their ships.

The Tides near the entrance are very irregular. It is high water at from
4*' 30"" to 8^ 0", and the rise varies from 7i to 11 ft. At and near the springs
there were only two tides in 24 hours, and four tides at neaps. These irre-
gularities, caused by the gradual change from one to the other, are occasion-
ally increased and confused by changes of wind in the gulf.

In the month of April the river is at its lowest level, and the tide observa-
tions during this month gave 3 ft, on the bar at low water springs, and 10^-
feet at high water. Towards the end of the rainy season (the beginning of
October) the river is much swollen, and its banks are frequently flooded and
the country inundated. The bar has then 5 ft. on it, at low water springs,
and 14 and 15 ft. at high water, and the water is said to be quite fresh at
low tide.

Outside the bar and near the anchorage the flood sets to the westward,
and the ebb to the eastward, altering its direction occasionally according to
the strength of the river stream. Along the eastern shore of the gulf towards
Cape Liant the ebb sets to the southward and flood to the northward.

It is high water at Cape Liant about the same time as at the bar of the
Bangkok, and the rise is only 6-J ft.

Tachin River. — The mouth of this river lies about 20 miles to the west-
ward of the Bangkok River ; it was navigated for about 85 miles by H.M.S.
Teazer, in November, 1871. This river has a similar bay to that of the
Bangkok River, but the entrance is more difficult to distinguish, the land in
the neighbourhood being low, and covered with trees.

In clear weather the high land of Bang-Pasoi brought to bear E. by S.,
will lead to a position off the bar, which may be crossed on a N.N.W.
course. Tachin River has about the same general depth, and is of the same
general width as Bangkok River.

The r^(72er anchored oQ Maconchm in lat. 13° 39' N., long. 100° 11' E.,
nearly 35 miles from the mouth of the Tachin. At Maconchisi are the new
mills of the Indo-Chinese Sugar Company ; the sugar is at present sent in
barges by canal to Bangkok, but it is expected that vessels will shortly navi-
gate the Tachin River as easily as they now do the River Bangkok, whereby
an expensive freight will be saved.

CHAPTEE XL

THE COAST OF COCHIN CHINA, TON-KING, ETC.

The coast described in the present section borders the empire of Anam,
which is 960 miles in length from North to South, and averages about 300
miles in breadth. It is divided into three distinct portions, French Cochin
China or Saigon, Cochin China, and Tonquin. The first, of which Saigon is
the capital, was ceded to the French (together with the free right of navi-
gating the several arms of the Cambodia Eiver), by the Emperor of Anam,
in 1863. Saigon was first occupied by the French in 1857. Subsequently
additional territory has been acquired by the French, and several ports have
been opened to commerce. Eaung-Chow (Hoi How), in Hainan, is now open ;
the ports of Haip-hong and Han-oi, in Tonquin, were declared open to
commerce in a treaty signed in August, 1874, and the port of Quin-hon in
November, 1875. The Empire of Anam contains from 12,000,000 to 15,000,000
of inhabitants, and the French territory 900,000. There were in the latter
only 10 European British subjects resident in 1874. The chief export is
rice : of this article, 340,000 tons were exported from the French territory of
Saigon in the year 1876, chiefly to China and Java. Cotton, pepper, sugar,
silk, coffee, fish, &c., are also exported. The trade is chiefly in the hands of
Chinese merchants.

The view which the country of Cochin China and Tonquin presents from
the sea is that of a varied landscape, composed of bold headlands, picturesque
valleys, well cultivated slopes, extensive downs, and low plains, frequently
terminating in sand-hills with a back-ground of rather lofty mountains in
the distance.

1.— COCHIN CHINA.

The Coast of Cambodia, or Lower Cochin China, from Cambodia, or
Camao Point, its south-western extreme, to the Saigon Eiver, is very low
land, inundated by the sea at times ; and in most parts the trees are just
discerned nearly level with the water's edge, from the deck of a large ship,
at the distance of 1 1 or 12 miles. The whole coast is fi-onted with shoal
banks of sand, which project 10 or 12 miles from it in some places, having

EOYALIST BANK— PULO CONDOEE GROUP. 429

2 J and 3 fathoms on them, and 6 to 7 fathoms near their edges. The sound-
ings are regular in the offing, and decrease gradually until the edges of these
banks are approached : then from 9 or 8 fathoms the water shoals suddenly
in some places ; the bottom near the edges, and also a considerable distance
seaward, is mostly fine sand and oaze.

As the coast here is very low and destitute of any particular mark, it must
be approached pretty closely to observe its bearing, but this must be done
with great caution ; when its trend changes from eastward to north-eastward,
the entrance of the Cambodia River will be abreast.

ROYALIST BANK.— The late Lieut. D. M. Gordon, of H.M. surveying-
vessel Royalist, sounded on a bank, about S.E. by E. 24 miles from Pulo
Obi, which he thus described : — " On January 15th, 1848, we discovered a
bank, having 17 fathoms water at each end ; and crossing it in a S.S.E.
direction, we continued in from 10 to 6 fathoms, sand and hard bottom, for
about IJ mile, where we again deepened to 17 fathoms. Pulo Obi was
occasionally in sight through the haze, but no correct bearing could be
obtained. I could not see the bottom, and am not jjositive that it was coral,
the lead only bringing up reddish sand. We made it in lat. 8° 12^' N., long.
105° lU' E."

There is another patch of 6 fathoms upon the Admiralty chart, about
E. by N. .V N., 20 miles from the Royalist Bank.

The BROTHERS are two small islands, about 2J or 3 miles apart, N.E.
by E. and S.W. by W., lying about 80 miles eastward of Pulo Obi, and
nearly 40 miles from the coast of Lower Cochin China. The westernmost,
in lat. 8° 34' N., long. 106° 11' E., is a barren rock, not more conspicuous
than Pedra Branca at the entrance of Singapore Strait, and has high breakers
on its eastern side during blowing weather. The easternmost is a high
round islet, with trees on its summit, bearing W. by S., 18 miles from Pulo
Condore.

PULO CONDORE GROUP (called Con-non by the Cochin Chinese), lies
about 50 miles from the coast of Cambodia or Lower Cochin China, and 60
or 70 miles to the westward of the fair track of vessels bound up or down
the Main route of the China Sea, but right in the track of those proceeding
between Singapore and Saigon. The principal island is nearly 9 miles in
length N.E. and S.W., from 2 to 4 miles in breadth, and the head of the
landing place at the village in Great Bay, on its S.E. side, is in lat. 8° 40'
57" N., long. 106° 36' 11" E.* It is encompassed by several islands much
smaller, which are mostly all high and covered with trees, and is formed of
a ridge of mountains, the summit of the highest of which is elevated 1,954

• The mean of observations obtained in 1862 bj' the oflScers of H.M. surveying-vcsiels
Swallow and liijeman.

430 COCHIN CHINA.

feet, and has been seen 50 miles off in clear weatlier. The island is thinly
inhabited by people from Cambodia and Cochin China, who reside in a vil-
lage on a plain at the bottom of Great Bay. The French are in possession
of the island, which they make use of as a penal settlement.

The approaches to Pulo Condore are safe. The coral banks only occur
near the shores, and more particularly in those parts that are sheltered from
the N.E. and S.W. monsoons.

The CAMBODIA RIVER is of great commercial importance. It has been
termed the Me-kong, or Me-kiang, but by the French surveyors it is called
the Cambodia River. Taking its source in the mountains of Thibet, it tra-
verses two of the south-western provinces of China, and passing along the
entire western frontier of the Annamite empire, enters Cambodia, where it
divides into three branches or arms, two of which flow through Lower Cochin
China, and are there known as the rivers Hau-giang and Tien-giang.

This great river, the surveys of which are the result of the labours of M.
Man en and other French hydrographic engineers, is navigable for a great
distance into the interior. The waters commence to rise in the month of
May, attain their maximum in October, and decrease until March. They rise
26 to 33 ft. at Nam Van, and 17 ft. about Chau-doc and the Each Ong Nu.
Tides are only felt during the season when the waters are low, and their
height is 10 inches at Nam Van, and nearly 4^ ft. at Chau-doc.

DELTA of the CAMBODIA RIVER.— The several mouths of the Cambodia
Eiver form a delta more than 60 miles in extent, in a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion. The land is low, and subject to frequent changes in consequence of the
accumulation of the rich alluvial deposit brought down by the different
branches of the river. Shoal banks front the whole delta, and extend so far
to seaward that the land is nearly always invisible from their outer edges.
The 5-fathom line of soundings bounding these banks passes about 30 miles
to the westward of Pulo Condore, and imagining a line to be drawn from
that island to Cape St. James, the 5-fathom line will be about 8 or 9 miles
distant from it ^t the Co-khien mouth, and about 3 miles at the Cuatieu
mouth. Between the extreme mouths of the river, from lat. 9° 20' to 10° N.,
lies the most advanced part of the coast, and it is in front of this part that the
bank projects farthest. The soundings near its edge decrease suddenly from
10 or 11 to 3 fathoms, and the land, which is here 7 or 8 miles distant, is
generally invisible.

Many ships have gone on shore in this locality, on account of the great
risk arising from the rapid decrease of the soundings and the absence of any
land marks. It is therefore necessary in approaching this coast from the
ofl3.ng to exercise extreme prudence, and the greatest possible caution should
be observed when navigating to the westward of the line of Cape St. James
bearing N. by E. ^ E. At the first cast under 11 fathoms, or as soon as trees
become visible, it is necessary to haul out quickly to the eastward, especially

DELTA OF THE CAMBODIA EIVER. 431

during the N.E. monsoon, when the currents set strong on to the banks to
the south-westward. The direction of these currents vary from West, S.W.,
and S.S.W., and their rate, which depends a great deal upon the force of
the wind, is sometimes as much as 40 or 50 miles in 24 hours. Near the
mouths of the Cambodia River the rate of the current increases with the
flood and diminishes with the ebb.

The waters of the Cambodia are charged with yellowish mud, and dis-
coloured water may at times be seen 7 or 8 miles out at sea towards the end
of the ebb, but it is driven back by the flood. This change of colour indi-
cates the approach to shoal water, and is therefore a limit which it is not
prudent to pass.

The formation of deposit is so rapid in these parts, that the limits which
we have given may perhaps be altered in a few years. There is so much
sea on the edges of these banks, and the currents which set towards the land
are so strong, that this coast should be absolutely avoided during the N.E.
monsoon.

The mouths Ba-thac and Binh-nan, which limit to the westward the delta
of the Cambodia Eiver, bear N.N.W. J "VV., and are distant 45 miles from
Pulo Condore. The shoal banks fronting them extend about 9 or 10 miles,
and are for the most part uncovered at low water. The bar at the entrance
of the former has not been completely sounded ; upon that of the Dinh-naa
there are 8 ft. at low water spring tides.

The mouths Cong-hau and Co-khien are about 20 miles farther to the north-
eastward ; the shoal banks fronting them extend 10 or 11 miles, and partly
uncover. Upon the bar fronting these entrances there are but 6 ft. water,
low spring tides. There is a clump of trees on the right bank of the Cong-
hau, and a fort on the right bank at the entrance of the Co-khien.

The Ben-nhau mouth, 7 or 8 miles farther to the north-eastward, appears
to be more accessible ; from 8 to 10 ft. was found upon the bar at low water
springs, but the channel is long, tortuous, and difficult. Two Jorts, one upon
each point of the entrance, defend it. It was near this entrance that the
We^er was lost, the wreck of which is, or was very recently, still visible upon
the bank to the southward of the entrance, at a distance of 8 miles.

A few miles farther to the north-eastward is the entrance of the Ba-lai, upon
the bar of which 9 or 10 ft. water was found at low water spring tides.

The Cua-dai and the Cua-tieu, the two northernmost mouths of the Cambo-
dia River, are defended by forts built upon the banks at their entrances. On
the bar uf the former but 5 or 6 ft. was found, and on that of the latter 6 or
7 ft., at low water springs. The shoal banks, near which it is necessary to
pass in entering these mouths, are numerous and extensive, the shallow water
covering them forming large plateaux of very dangerous breakers.

In the actual state of things it would be useless to give instructions for
entering these different mouths, the banks and channels being subject to

432 COCHIN CHINA.

change of position ; the coast, moreover, is very low, and covered with a
vegetation so uniform, that in all probability any bearings we might give
here would but have the effect of leading into error. None of these mouths
are therefore practicable, in our opinion, unless they be j&ret carefully buoyed,
or unless with the assistance of a local pilot. "^

DELTA of the RIVER DON-NAI. — Six miles to the eastward of the
Dongtranh mouth lies Cangio Point, which limits on the "West the bay of
Ganh Eay, into which flows the Don-nai, as well as the Viam-tcheou, the
Viam-lcai-mep, the Ba-lou, the Tchavia, and the Racli-lap.

Caution. — In front of the mouths Cua-dai and Cua-tieu, and to the south-
eastward of Cangio Point, the banks are the most numerous and extensive,
and as they limit on the West the channel leading to Saigon, it is neces-
sary to be extremely careful that the vessel is not drifted towards them by
currents.

When the vessel is abreast of the Cua-dai mouth, or about 15 miles dis-
tant from the light on Cape St. James, take care that the light is not brought
to the East of N.E. f N., upon which bearing at that distance it leads in 4
fathoms about 2| miles outside the dangerous banks and breakers at the
entrance of the river. From thence that bearing of the light appears to be
a prudent tacking mark when standing towards the banks fronting the
shore ; it is however possible, when distant from 5 to 7 miles from Cape St.
James, to stand farther to the westward, until the light bears N.E. i E., but
we consider it advisable not to do so, especially in large vessels.

DON-NAI or SAIGON RIVER.— The Phuoc-linh-giang, commonly called
the Don-nai, or Saigon Eiver, has not been surveyed higher up than the
cascades, situated about 25 miles above Bien-hoa, the chief town of a province
of that name, and which lies 12 miles to the N.E. by N. of Saigon. It does
not become navigable until below the ancient barriers, at the point where the
Tay-giang branches off, 6 miles below Bien-hoa. From thence it follows a
south-easterly direction for 3 or 4 miles, and then trends with several wind-
ings to the south-westward, until it receives the Saigon arm and forms the
Tam-giang-khau, which runs nearly North and South. At Phami Point it
divides into two arms ; the one turning to the westward is the Loirap, that
turning to the south-eastward reassumes the name of the Phuoc-binh-giang
or Don-nai. Four or five miles below the point at which the Loirap diverges,
a smaller branch, named Each-mon-gom, turns to the eastward. This sepa-

* At present the only port useful for trade is Saigon, nor is it probable that any other
port "will be utilised, for the whole country being intersected with numerous rivers
and canals, it is an easy matter to convey its products to Saigon, the river leading to
■which can be safelj' and easily entered at any time by the largest class of ships. The
Company's ships which traded to Cambodia in the 16th century frequently got aground in
the river, and it appears always to have been an intricate navigation for large ships.

CAPE ST. JAMES. 433

rates into two streams, both of which rejoin the main river at one point,
and form that part known as the Quatre-bras (four-arms'). The Don-nai
disembogues at Cangio Point in Ganh Pay Bay, 8 miles below Quatre-bras.

The Saigon arm of the Don-nai is its sole af&uent, and, like it, is re-
plenished by the inundations from the great river of Cambodia. It flows
from the N.W. to the S.E., leaves on its right the mountain of Badinh,
passes by the Cai-cong, Thu-dau-mot, and Dai-thieu, and, pursuing a very
serpentine course, passes Saigon, joining the Don-nai about 8 or 9 miles
below that city.

CAPE ST. JAMES, bearing from Pulo Condore about N. by E. ^ E., dis-
tant 98 miles, and forming the eastern boundary of the entrance to the
Don-nai oi Saigon Piver, is the first high laud seen when coming from the
south-westward, the whole of the coast from thence to the Gulf of Siam
being very low drowned land. The mountain forming the cape has at its
southern part a low gap, and on its northern part a high gap, which give it
the appearance of three islands when first seen at a distance of about 30
miles, but on a near approach the connexion is percived. The extreme of
the cape is a narrow tongue projecting to the southward, and at a short
distance to the eastward of it is a small islet.

The village of Vang-tau stands in Cocoa-Nut Bay, on the western side of
Cape St. James, about IJ mile from its South extreme. The bay is about a
mile long and half a mile deep, the beach being hned by a grove of cocoa-
nut trees. The shore between the extreme of the cape and the bay is bold,
and may be passed at half a mile with safety ; but the bay is shallow and
afi'ords anchorage only for vessels of the smallest class. At the southern
part of the bay the soundings decrease pretty regularly from 5 to 3 and
2 fathoms, but at the northern part they decrease suddenly from 5 to 1|-
fathoms ; vessels, therefore, intending to anchor ofi" this bay should approach
it with caution, and anchor in 7 or 6 fathoms ; the bottom is soft mud, and
the holding ground good. " Be careful not to drop the anchor on a sunken
rock in 7 fathoms of water ; the extreme S.W. point of the bay bearing
S.E. by E., and the N.W. point N.E. by E."— Ca/?^. A. J. Loftus.

Water. — Good water may be obtained from wells, easy of access, at the
village of Yang-tau ; water may also be found at a village in the Ganh Pay
Piver, a short. distance from the point marked in the chart.

Lights.— A fixed white light of the first order is exhibited from a light-
tower, 26 ft. high, standing on the southernmost of the heights of Cape St.
James, and 776 yards within the South extreme of the cape. The light is
elevated 482 ft. above the mean level of the sea, and is visible in clear
weather at about 28 miles. The position of the light-tower is lat. 10° 19^'
N., long. 107° 5' 25" E.

A fixed white light, elevated 32 ft. above the sea, and visible 10 miles, is
I. A. » «^

434 COCHIN CHINA.

exhibited from a lightvessel moored head and stern N.W. and S.E., in 5
fathoms water, close to the right or West bank of the Dun-nai Eiver, N.W.
i W., distant 2 J miles from Cangio Point.

CANGIO or BASSOK BANK, forming the western boundary of the en-
trance to the Don-nai Eiver, is very extensive, and has but 3 to 4 ft. water
over it at low tides. From its southern extreme, in 2 fathoms, the light-
house on Cape St. James bears E. by N. — northerly, 4;^ miles, but shoal
soundings of 3 and S^ fathoms extend from thence to a 2^- fathoms patch,
which lies S.W., from 3^ to 4 miles from the lighthouse. The edge of the
bank from the southern extreme in 2 fathoms, takes a north-easterly direc-
tion till abreast of Yang-tau, when it trends to the northward as far as
abreast of Point A, where the navigable channel is about IJ miles broad ;
from thence the bank curves away gradually towards Cangio Point, passing
it nearly three-quarters of a mile off.

The edge of the Cangio Bank may generally be known by rows of fishing
stakes, the extremes of which are usually close to the deep water ; these
stakes, however, cannot be depended upon for marks, being occasionalJy
shifted by the natives.

Shoal Banks at the Entrance.— The shoal patch, lying about 2J miles
S.E. of the 2 fathoms' extreme of the Cangio Bank, is a hard bank of sand
and gravel about half a mile in extent, with 13 to 15 ft. water over it.
Prom its north-eastern extreme the lighthouse on Cape St. James bears N.E.
by E., distant 3 miles. Between the shoal patch and the Cangio Bank the
depths are 3 and 3 J fathoms; 3^ and 4 fathoms extend a mile to the east-
ward of it, and irregular soundings of 3J, 5^, and 4 fathoms, about 1^ mile
to the north-eastward ; from thence to Cape St. St. James the depths are 6
to 8 fathoms.

The Formosa Bank, the West extreme of which lies S.E. by E. three-
quarters of a mile from the South point of Cape St. James, is a mile in
extent E. by N. and W. by S., and composed of hard sand and gravel, with
but 13 to 15 ft. water over it. About a mil© E.N.E. from it is a patch of 3
fathoms, about half a mile in extent.

■ Two miles S.S.E. from Cape St. James there are shoal patches of 4f
fathoms on a bank of irregular soundings, which extends from thence about
E. by N., nearly 3 miles. Between this bank and the Formosa Bank and 3
fathoms patch, are depths of 6 fathoms, and 6 to 7 fathoms in other direc-
tions from it.

The Formosa Bank, and the shoal patches to the southward and eastward
of it, will be avoided if the lighthouse is not brought to the westward of
N. by W.

The Channel at the entrance of the Don-nai forms an elbow to Cangio
Point, the first land met with on the left hand when entering. It is 10 miles
long, and, between the North point of Cocoa-Nut Bay and the Cangio Bank,

SAIGON EIVER-CANGIO. 435

2 miles broad, but gradually narrows to threp-quarters of a mile abreast of
Cangio Point, where the river is usually considered to begin. The channel
is bounded on the "West and South by the Cangio Bank, on the East by the
cape land, and a mud bank which extends about 2 miles from the East side
Ganh Eay Bay, and on the North by a mud bank which extends nearly 2
miles to the eastward of the land opposite Cangio Point ; these mud banks
are separated by a passage with 5 to 8 fathoms water in it. The bottom of
the channel is soft mud ; the general depths are 7 to 12 fathoms, and ships
may anchor in any part of it.

The entrance of the river at Cangio Point cannot be made out when dis-
tant, the land being very low, and covered with brushwood. Should the
guard-ship be moored in her proper position at Cangio, the trees and her
hull will be seen close together, formmg an excellent mark for the entrance
of the river.

CANGIO is a small fishing village on the right bank of the river, not far
from Cangio Point, but it was, in 1862, nearly deserted on account of the
numerous pirates in the river.

Supplies. — Sometimes a few fish, ducks, pigs, eggs, and a small supply of
vegetables may be bought at the village, at moderate prices. The native
boats are numerous here, and sail very fast, with two and sometimes three
triangular sails made of matting, and, if wanted, may be hired for a small
Bum to go to Saigon or elsewhere.

Guard-ship, Pilots, &c. — A French frigate is stationed as a guard-ship off
Cangio, but she is sometimes lying off Cape St. James. All vessels arriving
must be brought to an anchor where she is, their small arms and ammuni-
tion, of whatever kind and quantity, must be packed up, numbered, and
taken on board of her, and the manifest, port clearance, list of passengers,
and the shij)'s draught of water must also be shown to her commanding
ofiicer ; after which a receipt and pass to proceed up the river will be granted.
Printed port regulations may be obtained on board, and also pilots for the
river, if necessary. Rate of pilotage 3 dollars per foot.

Caution.— Should the guard-ship be at her station oflP Cangio, large vessels
should not pass on her South side, there being no room between her and a
hard bank of sand, extending some distance from the South bank of the river.
The best anchorage is midway between the frigate and the North bank, in
8 fathoms, soft bottom. By proceeding farther into the river much deeper
water will be found, making it sometimes very awkward for a large ship to
get the anchor in the strength of the N.E. monsoon.

Banks and Dangers in the River. — Banks extend from both sides of the
river between Cangio Point (B) and the points marked E. and F. consider-
ably narrowing the channel, which must there be navigated with caution ;
the soundings are irregular, and the banks shoal suddenly. The river from
thence to Point P is free from danger, with the exception of a bank pro-

436 COCHIN CHINA.

jecting a short distance from Point M, another from the point opposite N,
and another from Point 0.

Coral Banks. — There is a coral bank in the bend opposite Point P, "which
extends more than half-way across the river; along its edge are U and 2
fathoms water, with less depths near the shore. There is also a detached
bank with as little as ^ fathom water over it between the southern part of
the shore bank, and the shore just to the southward of Point P; and
another detached bank, with 2| fathoms water over it, just to the northward
of Point P.

Mr. Phillips, master of H.M.S. Vigilant, remarks that these banks are well
buoyed ; and upon the French charts they are or were* marked as follows : —

Three red buoys are placed upon the outer edge of the shore bank.

A horizontally striped red and hlach buoy is placed upon the South extreme
of the lower detached bank, abreast of the southern red buoy on the shore
bank. A black buoy is placed upon its northern edge ; and a red buoy marks
its western limit.

A perpendicularly striped hlach and white buoy is placed on the northern
end of the northern detached bank.

Three trees with their stems painted in llach and white bands, mark the
limits of these dangers on the eastern or right hand bank of the river, going
up ; and a tree, similarly painted, marks the northern limit on the opposite
Bide of the river.

The best channel for large ships appears to be between the red buoy ou
the western edge of the southern bank and the shore on the left hand, going
up ; and afterwards between the middle red buoy of the shore bank, and the
perpendicularly striped llaclc and white buoy on the northern detached bank.
The usual plan, however, is to closely hug the shore on the left hand, going
up the river.

A shoal bank projects some distance from the shore at Point S at the junc-
tion of the Loirap, to avoid which vessels going up should keep over on the
left bank or eastern side of the river.

Dangerous Bank commences nearly 1^ mile above Point T, and extends
about 3A miles along the bank on the eastern side of the river, from which
it is separated by a narrow channel of 3 fathoms. It reaches about halfway
across the river, and is composed of sand and rock, the latter prevailing at
its South end ; it is also coated with mud and clay. Several ships have been
much injured on this bank, and have experienced great difficulty in getting
off it. When beating up or down this reach, tack just before getting in mid
river, and never shoal the water anything under 6 fathoms.

* We have received no notice of the arrangement of the buoys as above described, having
been altered since the French system was adopted of marking channels with red buoys and
beacons on the starboard side, entering from sea, black to port, and red and black to be
passed on either side.

THE CITY OF SAIGON. 437

Dangerous bank extends to abreast of Point V, where the river turns
sharply from a N.N.E. to a W.S.W. direction ; from thence to Saigon the
river is free from danger.

The CITY of SAIGON, the capital of the French possessions in Cochin
China, stands on the right or West bank of the Don-nai, about 45 miles
from Cape St. James. It was formerly the principal arsenal and marine
depot of the king of Cochin-China, who, in 1790, caused it to be extensively
and strongly fortified by Colonel V. Olivier, a French officer in his service,
Saigon consists of two towns connected by a straggling suburb ; Pingeh
with the citadel being on the West side of the river, and the commercial
town being on a tributary stream navigable by large boats. It is regularly
built and iotersected by canals, some of which are lined with quays of stone
and brick-work. The houses are mostly of earth, one story high, and
thatched with palm-leaves. The citadel, fortified in European style, contains
barracks, officers' quarters, and the governor's residence. Saigon has also
a naval yard and arsenal, a palace, and large rice magazines. It communi-
cates with the Mekong by a canal 20 miles in length, and has a foreign
trade with China, Siam, Java, the Philippines, &c. In 1876, there were 317
vessels of all nationalities, and aggregating 234,299 tons register, loaded at
Saigon, of which 215 vessels, of 158,151 tons, were British. The markets
are well supplied with provisions, especially fish, and the environs fertile and
carefully cultivated. Exports, see page 428. A railroad from Cholon to
South Fort, a distance of 6 or 7 miles, was determined on in 1875.

The observatory, about half a mile from the principal landing-place, is
reached by a straight road. It is, according to the French charts, in lat.
10° 46' 40" N., long. 106° 41' 52" E. The observations obtained in 1853 in
H.M.S. Rifleman agree very closely with this position, viz., lat. 10° 46' 39 'N.,
long. 106° 42' 31" E.

Anchorage. — The anchorage for men-of-war is ofi" the city in from 5 to 7
fathoms ; merchant vessels are obliged to anchor below the mouth of the
Viam-Benghe. Ships' papers must be shown to the harbour master ou
arrival, and a berth for mooring ship will be pointed out by him.

Supplies. — Captain Loftus says that water is obtained from a well at the
Chinese bazaar on the Viam-Benghe ; it is brought alongside in boats. The
fish are small and black, and inferior eating. Ducks and fowls sell for about
three dollars per dozen ; vegetables are scarce. There is but a limited
quantity of ships' stores, and little variety for visitors.

A plentiful supply of excellent beef was obtained here by H.M.S. Rifleman,
and also snipe at moderate prices.

Climate. — During the day the heat is very great, the thermometer often
rising to 100° in the shade, and during the night also the air is very close
and the heat oppressive.

Few strangers escape from what is called the Scdgon fever ; it seems to

438 COCHIN CHINA.

be of a chronic form, and not easily got rid of. Emetics, purgatives, and
large doses of quinine are used for its cure. Attacks of cholera and sua
stroke are also frequent. Bathing, moderate exercise in the shade, spare
regular diet, and ample rest, are the best preventives. Exposure to the sun,
indolence, costiveness, irregular diet, and drinking fermented liquors must
be avoided.

Tides. — At Cape St. James it is high water, full and change, at 2*" 30" ; *
at Cangio Point at 3''. Upon the bars of all the Cambodia rivers, as far as
the mouth of the Ben-nhau, it is high water nearly at the same time as at
Cangio. Equinoctial springs rise 13 ft., neaps 9 ft. Spring tides run
strong ; ebb tides last longer than the floods. Neap tides are feeble and
irregular ; sometimes strong currents set into the river at that period, and
raise the height of the tides a little. On the coral bank up the river it is
high water at 3** SO-" ; and the rise is the same. At Saigon the tides are
tolerably strong and regular about the springs ; it is high water at 4** 30™,
and the rise is 11 to 12 ft.

"Neaps are weak and irregular, with strong under currents and very
little rise and fall. Vessels dropping down during neaps will fiind great
advantage in having a square sail sunk under the stern, with two guys
leading forward. From the pitch of the cape the flood sets to the Cangio
Bank, almost direct to the mouth of the river ; the ebb takes the opposite
direction. The passage up the river generally occupies two days." — Captain
Jjoftus.

Directions for making the Land and Entering the Don-nai River. — In the N.E.
monsoon ships from the southward should make the land well to windward
of the port, or they will be set quickly to leeward of Cape St. James, and
too near the Cangio Bank, by the flood tide and the sea current setting
about S.W. by W. along the coast. But a strong set in the opposite direc-
tion may be expected with the ebb tide, which, at the full and change of the
moon, begins to run out of the river about midnight.

Entering the River, the fairway mark is the two points of the cape land
northward of Cocoa-nut Bay in one, N. by W. ^ W. ; this will lead between
the shoal patches in regular soundings of 6 or 7 fathoms.

Cape Bakek just open of Cape Ti-wan, bearing N.E. by E., leads to the
southward of the shoal patches which lie south-eastward of Cape St. James,
and the lighthouse bearing N. by W. leads to the westward.

The western extreme of the North point of the cape land (A) bearing
North, will lead clear of the shoal patch on the western side of the channel,
and bearing N. by E. \ E. will lead between the shoal patch and the Cangio
Bank in 3 fathoms least water.

* Mer de Chine, p. 210. Capt. Loftus gives ll*" as the time of high water at the cape,
and o'' 30'" at Saigon.

CAPE ST. JAMES TO SAIGON. 439

In the South-west Monsoon^ when the East end of Pulo Condore is brought
to bear South with a westerly wind and lee current, steer northward, and the
vessel will soon gain the edge of the bank fronting the Cambodia rivers, and
extending to the mouth of the Saigon Eiver.

Strong freshes run out of these rivers during this monsoon, and join the
sea current, whereby vessels are obliged to keep the edge of the bank aboard
to prevent being set to leeward of the meridian of Cape St. James.

Continue along the edge of the bank, with the lead going in not less than
10 fathoms, and keep on until Cape St. James bears about N.N.E., then
steering direct for it on that bearing, will lead to the fairway of the entranse
to the river.

CAPE ST. JAMES to SAIGON.— A steam vessel will have no difficulty in
proceeding up the Don-nai Eiver for the first time, guided by the chart only,
and without the assistance of a pilot, by keeping as nearly as possible in
mid-channel, and being careful in rounding the points. Of course, near the
Coral Banks and Dangerous Bank, it will be necessary to be guided by the
buoys (page 436) which mark the former, and to keep over to the fort side
when passing the latter. A stranger may proceed boldly up to the city, as
there is plenty of room to anchor and swing upon the flood tide. It is a
difi'erent matter however with sailing ships, and the following directions for
their guidance are by Captain A. J. Loftus, commander of the barque JJew-
sm^^o?i of Singapore, 1862.

In the North-east Monsoon. — Having rounded Cape St. James at a moderate
distance, either with the flood or ebb, keep mid-channel, and steer for point
A until it bears East, distant three-quarters of a mile, then steer N. W. \ W.
till the trees on point B. bear W. \ N., or the guard ship W. ^ N. ; at the
same time point A must be brought to bear S.E. by E. Then steer W. by N.
for the entrance of the river. Take care to make these courses good,
attending carefully to the lead. Having arrived at the entrance, bring up
midway between the guard ship and the North bank in 9 fathoms water.
Do not pass inside the guard ship.

When turning to windward between Cape St. James and Cangio Point,
the lead should be kept constantly going, and the water not shoaled to lesa
than 7 fathoms on either side, the banks being steep-to in many places ; with
a hard bottom the vessel is on the edge of the bank.

Having complied with the regulations of the guard ship, weigh at low-
water, with a commanding breeze from the eastward, and proceed toward®
point E, keeping in mid-channel, and giving the small islet lying ofi" point
E a good berth.

When near point E,* brace up and luff, run close to it through the next

* Many seamen have mistaken point D for that of E, and having luffed round it have
got aground on hard sand.

440 COCHIN CHINA.

reach. Should the wind be scant, make a tack and proceed on to point J,
keeping it close aboard ; then brace up and luff along the South reach,
giving the mouth of a river below the point a moderate berth ; steer on in
mid-channel until near point M, then haul up, and if the ship is handy,
work through the East reach, otherwise back and fill, or drop through if the
tide be strong. Make sail again at the end of the reach and proceed, round-
ing point in mid-channel, as there is a little shoal water off it. Keep very
close in to that side of the river until the painted tree that grows out of the
water at point P* and the Coral Bank are passed, giving the tree a berth of
half a ship's length.

Having passed the bank, run on, keeping clear of the bight Q, which is
shoal. When off point T, cross over to U, sailing along that side at a con-
venient distance. Keep close to point V if the wind be scant, and luff
through the next reach ; then keep away and brace sharp up at point W,
keep a close luff through the South reach, and bring up below the shipping.

In the South-west Monsoon. — Having arrived at Cape St. James, proceed on
and anchor in mid-channel off point A if the tide is ebbing ; if not, brace
up and work to windward in a N.W. direction until point A is brought to
bear S.E. by E., and the group of trees on point B W. \ N., or the guard
ship W. ^ N., then work up for the mouth of the river on these bearings,
keeping the lead constantly going, and not shoaling the water under 7
fathoms.

This is the rainy season at Saigon, and the prevailing winds are from the
West and S.W. Ships are able to partly drop and sail up the river in this
monsoon. But when under canvas be prepared for heavy%squalls, with rain
from the West and S.W., which travel across the southern part of Cambodia
from the Gulf of Siam. The tides also are stronger and of longer duration
now than in the N.E. monsoon. ,

Having arrived at the guard ship and complied with the regulations, at a
favourable opportunity get away at low water with a westerly or south-
westerly commanding breeze, and proceed up the river, making short tacks,
if necessary, in the upper part of this reach between points E and D.

When standing over to either side of the river above the branch C, do not
shoal the water to less than 10 fathoms ; but having rounded point E, in
working, approach either side to any distance, as both shores are steep-to.

When close to the Four Arms, the water deepens suddenly from 12 to 17
and 20 fathoms, and it would be advisable to pass these rivers under canvas,
until beyond the influence of their conflicting currents, and shoaler water is
met with.

In kedging or sailing past these rivers with the flood, keep in or about

* It is doubtful if this painted tree now exists ; it is not marked on the latest French
charts.

SAIGON TO CAPE ST. JAMES. 441

mid-channel, and be guarded against the tide, which sets strong from the
N.W. arm into the small river below point J. Having cleared the small
river at J, proceed sailing or kedging, according to the size or handiness of
the ship. The flood tide at the rivers K and L enter the main branch, con-
sequently ships passing their mouth will be set on the opposite shore.

Having passed point 0, if under sail, it will be advisable to take it in, and
kedging past the coral bank, with the anchor under foot in the manner
formerly mentioned, as it very seldom happens in this monsoon that a ship
can luff round point P, and clear the bank.

In passing this bank with a fresh wind and flood tide, take great care to
starboard the helm quickly when rounding point P, as the tide sets from that
point directly into the opposite bight, and ships from neglect of this precau-
tion would be apt to tail on the West end of the bank. Having cleared it,
proceed, and pass the mouth of the river at E closely, as the flood tide seta
out of it over to the opposite bank.

When under sail or kedging, pass point S in mid-channel, and make di-
rectly over to U, as the flood rushes out of the river at S, and sets over to
point T, sweeping the tail of the Dangerous bank. Ships are very apt to
be set on the South end of this bank when kedging past, if the point of the
river opposite S be not kept close aboard.

Continue on and give point Y* a close shave in passing, as the greater
bulk of the flood tide runs to the northward, which is apt to carry vessels
beyond the mouth of the smaller river, and with a head wind would lose a
tide or so in getting back again. Whereas by hugging the point close, a
couple of tacks will easily clear the reach, then bear away for Saigon, and
drop up to the shipping at leisure.

From Saigon to Oangio Point the ebb tide from the main branch enters the
minor rivers and flows«in a circuitous direction to the sea ; whilst the flood,
on the contrary, empties itself into the principal stream, the small river at J
being the only exception.

SAIGON to CAPE ST. JAMES. — In the North-east Monsoon the average
passage of small vessels to the mouth of the river is about five days, while
large vessels have taken from flfteen to twenty days. The former have the
advantage of being able to beat through nearly all the reaches, whilst the
latter have to back and fill or kedge with the anchor under foot.

When unmooring at the city, cat the starboard anchor, keeping the port
one down for kedging, and having broken groxmd, sheer from side to side,

* Ships dropping up or down this part of the river should, if possible, avoid the deep
bight to the westward of point V, and keep close to the opposite point, as there are some
cbstructions in the bottom of that Light, by which vessels have lost their anchors.

I. A. 3 L

442 COCHIN CHINA.

lying- athwart the tide when convenient, and hujzging the points when there
is no shoal off them, to prevent being set into the bights.

After rounding point V, keep on the sanae side of the river as far as U,
and from thence sheer direct over to point T, passing it closely, to prevent
being set into the river Loirap opposite. The ebb runs very strong into its
mouth, and many ships have been hoisted on the soft mud bank lying off
point S, through delay in crossing over. Proceed on, and when a short dis-
tance from the river R,* change anchors, giving that branch a good berth
whilst passing, as the ebb tide sets strong into it. Having passed the bight
Q, in mid-channel, keep close in to that side, and look out for point P ; if the
tide runs strong when the painted tree is approached, run out a line and
check the ship round it, keeping the bushes close aboard to prevent being set
on the rocky patch below the point ; this precaution is necessary, particularly
duiing the springs, as the ebb tide runs very strong, setting from point P,
directly over the rocky path.

Proceed, passing point in mid-channel ; strong sets will be found in the
bight at N and off point M, and also into the rivers L and K, the former of
which is nearly blocked up with soft mud. Vessels should hug the points
opposite these rivers very closely whilst passing, otherwise they will be
hoisted into them, and meet with more or less delay.

Proceeding, take care in passing the Four Arms, as the ebb tide sets
strong up the two northern arms, the water also increases in depth at their
junctions, making it very unhandy for kedging, and troublesome work for
the men at the windlass.

The best way to pass is to keep as close as safety will permit to the mouth
of the river at J, which is rather shoal, having but 3 fathoms across its
mouth. Having passed it keep very close to point J, where plenty of water
will be found, until beyond the tidal influence of th^ rivers.

Should the ship sheer off the point, carry a line out to the trees at J, and
snub her round it, otherwise she will be hoisted into one of the northern
arms, and be delayed. Several vessels have been delayed from one to two
days through this cause. After passing the Pour Arms, proreed, keeping
close to point E, as the tide sets strong into the bight opposite. The channel
from E to D is much contracted by the extent of the banks on both sides of
the river.

Having passed point E, proceed in mid-channel until the small island off
point D is rounded, keeping the North shore aboard until arriving at the
guard ship. By these means the strong set in the river C and the extensive
hard banks which lie on that shore will be avoided. These banks are pretty

Vessels dropping past the river at E, and the Coral Bank should always use the star-
board anchor with the ebb tide, and the port anchor with the flood. By these means the
river at R and the bank will be passed without much trouble.

CAPE TIWAN. 443

steep-to, and vessels tacking or droppino; in any part of this reach should
borrow, if anything, towards the North shore, as the water shoals there more
gradually. The lead at the same time should be kept carefully going, and
very short tacks made by vessels working through the narrows at the upper
part of this reach.

Having anchored at Cangio, receive the arms, and clearance from the
guard ship ; then get away with the sea breeze on the ebb tide, and work
the vessel through the channel to the eastward, being careful not to shoal
the water under 7 fathoms when standing towards the banks.

When the guard ship is brought to bear W. ? N., or the trees on point
B W. i N, bring the point A to bear S.E. by E. ; work up for the point on
these bearings, taking care not to stand too close to the high land of St.
James, as the wind is generally puffy and unsteady, causing ships at times
to miss stays. Should the tide be nearly done before getting clear of the
cape, it would be advisable to anchor off Cocoa-nut Bay until the next ebb
makes, for, should the wind fall light outside, the flood tide would in all
probability set the ship on the Cangio Bank.

In the South-west Monsoon, ships leaving Saigon will find little difficulty in
getting down to Cape St. James, as the prevailing winds are almost invariably
favourable for most of the reaches in the river.

When large ships cannot be worked through the smaller reaches, or are
obliged to kedge in consequence of foul winds, &c., the directions already
given for dropping down in the N.E. monsoon will be applicable. During
settled weather in this monsoon the sea breeze sets in from S.W., South,
S.E., and sometimes E.S.E. at Cape St. James.

From Cangio work out of the bay with the ebb tide to the cape, following
the directions already given for the N.E. monsoon.

CAPE TIWAN, bearing E.N.E. lOi miles from Cape St. James, is high,
and may be seen in clear weather 40 miles off. It is the termination of a
chain of hills, which, stretching northward, end in a long slope to seaward,
and it is generally the first land made in coming from the southward.
When off it, Cape St. James will be seen resembling two islands of moderate
height.

The bay between Cape St. James and Tiwan is filled by a shoal bank, the
3 fathoms edge of which is from 1 to 4 miles off shore. Four miles off the
entrance of the Cua-lap River, in the middle of the bay, with the lighthouse
bearing W. | S., and Cape Tiwan N.E. \ E. 3| miles, is a patch with 4^
fathoms over it. Pernamhuco Rock, on which the vessel of that name struck
in June, 187-5, was afterwards examined by the French ship of war Surcouf,
and found to lie 8 ft. below the surface of the water, S.E. \ S., 2 miles from
Cape Tiwan, and E. | N. from Cape St. James lighthouse. To avoid these
rocks, it is advisable for vessels passing between Capes Tiwan and St. James

444 COCHIN CHINA.

to avoid coming under a depth of 1 fathoms until they open the entrance of
the Saigon Eiver.

BRITTO BANK, named after a Portuguese captain who was wrecked upon
it, was examined by Captain Eoss, I.N., in 1817, who found it to be a dan-
gerous shoal about 1 J mile in length, E.N.E. and "W.S.W., and its breadth
does not exceed one-third of a mile. The shoalest spot has but 2 fathoms
water over it, and consists of a large patch of rocks near the North part of
the shoal, from which the summit of the highest hill over Cape Bahek bears
W. i N. distant 19-^- miles; Cow Island, N. by AV. 9 J miles; and the islet
close to Kega Point, N.E. f N. 15j miles. There are 3 to 5 fathoms over
other parts of the shoal.

Otram Point, termed of yellowish white sand hills, about 120 to 150 ft.
high, which render it easily discernible, bears N.E. by E. f E. 12^ miles from
Cape Tiwan.

OS this part of the coast, at from 2 to 3 J miles distant, are several shoal
patches, of from 4 to 5 tathoms water. These banks, from the water shoal-
ing suddenly over a hard bottom, cause overfalls, particularly near the edge
of the shore bank. The patches under the depth of 5 fathoms will be
avoided by keeping Cape Tiwan to the northward of West, until Cape Bahek
bears N. by W.

CAPE BAHEK, or Ba Ke, N.E. by E. J E. ii miles from Otram Point,
consists of a hill about 400 ft. high, surrounded by smaller ones, and is
connected with Otram Point by a range of sand hills.

The soundings for 12 miles eastward of Cape Bahek decrease regularly
towards the shore, but inside the Britto Bank there are several shoal patches^
only two of which, however, are dangerous to any but the largest ships.

The first of these patches, with only 3 fathoms water over it, lies about 7
miles N.W. of the Britto Bank, and 3| miles from the nearest land, which is
a point bearing about N. ^ W. from it ; the summit of the highest hill over
Cape Bahek, bearing W. by S. ^ S. 14| miles; and Cow Island N.E. by N.
6 miles.

About 2^ miles to the S.W. of the 3-fathom patch is another of 5 fathoms,
with 6 and 7 fathoms around it, and from it the summit of Cape Bahek bears
W. by S. nearly 12^ miles, and Cow Island N.E. ^ N. 8| miles. Three
miles E. by S. from this patch is another, of 4J fathoms water.

Vessels passing between the Britto Bank and the shore should not attempt
to go inside the 3-fathom patch, for there are no objects sufficiently near to
afford safe marks for passing between it and the tail of the spit.

COW ISLAND, bearing N.E. by E. i E. 19f miles from Cape Bahek, is a
Bmall round island, with trees upon its summit, lying about a mile from the
nearest part of the coast, and li mile westward of the entrance of a small
river. It is safe to approach, the soundings decreasing regularly towards it.

KEGA POINT (in lat. 10° 42' N., long. 107° 59' 40' E. by the French chart),

VINE, GUIO, AND LOGAN POINTS. 445

bearing from Cow Island E. by N. J N., distant 12 miles, is the extremity
of a tongue of low land, the prolongment of a spur from Mount Taiku, ter-
minating in an islet which resembles from a distance a fort in ruins.

The land is low and woody near the sea ; inland the country is high, and
the regular sloping mountain Tai-ku rises to an elevation of 1,312 ft., at 9
miles N.W. ^ N. from Kega Point. This mountain is visible a great distance
from seaward, being the most conspicuous land in this part of the coast, and
detached from any other high land.

The shore may be approached by the lead for a distance of 6 or 7 mile&
eastward of Cow Island, but about 4J miles "W.S.W. from Kega Point, and
3^ miles from the shore, the water shoalens suddenly from 6 or 7 to 3^
fathoms. W. by S. 4 miles foom Kega Point is a patch with only 2| fathoms
■water over it. A patch with 4f fathoms water over it, and 6 to 8 fathoms
around it, lies E. | S., distant 8 miles from Cow Island, with Mount Tai-ku
bearing North, and Kega Point N.E. by E. ^ E., distant 6^ miles. About
three-quarters of a mile to the south-eastward of this patch is another of 5 J
fathoms.

Kega Point is safe to approach, there being 9 or 10 fathoms water close
to it.*

VINE POINT, bearing from Kega Point N.E. | E. 22 miles, has a small
bank on its West side, northward or inside of which there is good anchorage
in 5 fathoms, opposite a fishing village in the small bay on the West side
of the point. Phan-thit Bay is formed by the land trending northward from
Kega Point to the Pbo-hai Eiver, and from thence eastward to Vine Point.
Tiger Island lies close to the East side of Vine Point. Although covered with
birds' dung it is not conspicuous, and only perceived when a ship is near the
land. The coast hereabout is speckled with alternate patches of sand and
verdure.

GUIO POINT, bearing N.E. i E. about 12 miles from Vine Point, forms
the South point of the bay of Phan-ry, and is known by a high, steep sand-
hill close to the sea. From Guio Point the coast trends nearl}'- North to the
entrance of the Phan-ry Eiver, and is of a reddish colour. Phan-ry is a large
fishing village.

LOGAN POINT, bearing N.E. by E. \ E. 15 miles from Guio Point, is a
narrow, low neck of land, projecting a considerable distance into the sea. On
its West side there is a small bay with a fishing village. Shoal water appears
to extend nearly a mile from the point.

• The description of the coast of Cochin China has, so far, hcen principally derived from
the late French surveys ; what follows, with the exception of the more recent descriptions
of the Treaty Ports, is chiefly from the surveys made by Mons. Jean Marie Dayat in 1793,
and from the remarks of Captain Daniel Ross, of the Bombay Marine, who visited this
coast during the yrars 1806 — 10,

446 COCHIN CHINA.

A bank about a mile in extent, with 4f fathoms water over it, was dis-
covered in 1862 by H.M.S. Vulcan^ lying about 2^ or 3 miles southward of
Lo^an Point, with the East extreme of the point bearing N.N.E., and the
West extreme N.N. W. Another 4 J-fathom patch, named Amazon Bank, lies
about 4 miles south-eastward of the point ; it is surrounded by depths of 1 1
and 14 fathoms.

PTJIO CECIR de TERRE (cilled Hon-cau by the natives), lying N.E. by
E. 5 E. S miles from Logan Point, is a low island, extending nearly E.N.E.
and W.S.W., having near its centre a mass of rocks higher than the other
parts, which is visible about 15 miles from the deck of a large ship. When
first seen it appears like a small peak or spire, and sometimes like a boat's
sail ; the whole of the island is rocky and barren, with the exception of a
little grass or green moss on the flat part. The two low extremities of the
island are encompassed with rocks, which project out above and below water
to a considerable distance. There are also some rocks above water on the
South side, but as the danger is generally visible, the island may be ap-
proached in the day to 2J or 3 miles ; in the night it ought not to be given
a wider berth, for then the island cannot be perceived unless it be very near,

Breda Bank. — The coast behind Pulo Cecir de Terre forms a deep and ex-
tensive bay, stretching from Logan Point to the land of Cape Padaran ; and
the high land of Cecir to the N. W. and North of the island is very moun-
tainous close to the sea. Between Pulo Cecir de Terre and the N.E. side of
this bay, opposite the Gap of Padaran, lies the Breda Bank, having 2 fa-
thoms, coral rocks, on its eastern edge, and there is said to be much less
water to the westward. This danger is not in the way of vessels passing out-
side Pulo Cecir de Terre, unless with a working wind they stand far into the
bay between that island and the land of Padaran.

CAPE PADARAN (called Muidin by the natives), in lat. 11° 21' N., long.
108° 58' E., is high land, steep and convex to seaward, forming the project-
ing part of the continent to the S.E. The high land of Padaran is joined to
the adjacent mountain of Cecir by a neck of low level land, visible only when
near the shore on the North or South side of the cape. The neck of low land
forms a deep gap between the land of Padaran and the mountain to the
westward ; and this gap or chasm in the land is generally called the Gap of
Padaran, and by the natives Cana. It is very conspicuous at a great distance,
and serves as a mark to avoid Holland Bank to the W.N.W. of Pulo Cecir
de Mer, described hereafter, and to point out the direction of Pulo Cecir de
Terre, this island being on with the Gap, bearing from N. by E, \ E. to
N. by E. i E.

Soundings do not extend far out from Cape Padaran, it being a steep head-
land, bold to approach, having from 25 to 30 fathoms very near the shore.

Amazon and Althea Banks. — The soundings about Pulo Cecir de Terre,
being in general irregular, are not always a sufficient guide in the night to

PHANEAN BAY AND HAEBOUR— DAVAICH HEAD. 447

show the proximity of the island. The ship Althea got on a bank of 8, 7,
and 6^ fathoms, with the island bearing N. by E. J E. just in sight from the
deck, and Logan Point N. by W. \ W. Lieut. Banare, of the French navy,
examined these banks cursorily in 1872, and believes the two banks, Amazon
(page 446) and Althea, to be only one bank, making out from the North
point of Cecir Island Bay, surrounding the latter ; thence trending out to
the S.W., and terminating at about 14 miles distance from the southern
point of the bay.

Over an extent of about 16 miles, in a N.E. and S.W. direction, he found
but shallow water, at times being able to see distinctly the sandy bottom
covered with coral heads.

Although having obtained not less than 5^ fathoms water, he is not posi-
tive that there may not be less.

Before a more thorough examination has been made, large vessels should
keep clear of these banks, and not approach the coast South of the parallel
of Cape Padaran.

PHANEAN BAY and Harbour. — Cape Padaran is the southern boundary
of the great bay of the same name, called also Phanran Bay, after a consi-
derable town at its head, where there is a tolerable harbour, formed by a
reef, dry at low tide, that projects about 2 miles from the western shore, and
shelters vessels from the sea.

After having passed Cape Padaran, if bound to the harbour, steer for the
middle of the bay, to avoid a reef and foul ground contiguous to the western
shore, then keep to the northward, for the North entrance point of the har-
bour until the reef on the western side is plainly seen.

When near the entrance, a mass of rocks, one over the other, like ruins,
will be perceived close to the shore at the N.AV. side of the harbour, and
beyond it an isolated hill ; keep the highest rock of the mass on with this
hill, in steering past the reef at the distance of a third of a mile ; 6 or 7 fa-
thoms will be the least water. When inside the reef, -steer more westerly,
and anchor in 4 fathoms, good holding ground. There is a rivulet at the
bottom of the harbuur, and a stream of fresh water where the reef joins the
shore.

From Phanran Bay to Davaich Head the coast runs about N.E. by N., and
is very mountainous and steep. A little to the southward of Davaich Head
there is an opening into Viing- Gang, a large basin or cove, inhabited by
fishermen, which is darkened by the steep surrounding mountains.

DAVAICH HEAD, or False Cape Varela* called Mui-Davaich by the na-
tives, in lat. ll'' 44' N., long. 109° 13' E., is formed by a high oblong moun-
tain of great magnitude, which, from the steep cliffs that front the sea, rises

* Named from a rock or knob upon the mountain, a little inland, having some resem-
lt)lance to that over Cape Varela, although not nearly so conspicuous.

448 COCHIN CHINA.

with a gentle acclivity inland ; it may be known from the other prominent
headlands by its great height, its convex outline, and by its regularly sloping
to seaward.

CAM-RANH BAY and Harbour. — The entrance to Cam-ranh Bay is
bounded on the South side by the land of Davaich Head, and the contiguous
isles, and on the North side by the high island Tagne : this is called the
large entrance, in which there are from 18 to 14 fathoms water. The small
entrance is between the North point of Tagne Island and the opposite point
of the main ; it has 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, but it is very narrow, and
should not be used except in a case of necessity. The bay carries 10 and 12
fathoms water, and is protected from the sea by Tagne Island.

About IJ mile to the N.W. of Tagne Island is the entrance to Cam-ranh
Harbour, about three-quarters of a mile wide, formed by a point of land on
the North side, and a long neck or narrow peninsula to the S.W. The inner
harbour is an extensive lagoon. There are no hidden dangers in. either the
bay or harbour, and they are safe for ships of any description, the bottom
being generally mud, and good holding ground. The harbour is mostly in-
habited by fishermen.

FISHER ISLANDS, in lat. 12° 2' to 12° 4' N., are of moderate height,
and lie 3i or 4 miles off the mainland to the northward of Cam-ranh Bay.
The southernmost island is called ^ow-«oj; the other, which is the largest,
and named JTon-ngai, has some islets and rocks near it. The channel inside
these islands is said to be safe, with 12 fathoms water near the shore, and
there is good anchorage opposite to them in the S.W. monsoon, close to the
coast at the sandy plain.

The passage inside the Fisher Islands is thought to be safe, and it may be
adopted if intending to proceed into Nha-trang Bay by the southern entrance ;
but caution must be used, for there is to the N.W. of these islands, in the
fair track, a rocky patch, on which the ship Lord Castlereagh shoaled suddenly,
August 18th, 1807.

Capt. A. G. Strode, E.N., H.M.S. Vulcan, 1862, reports having seen "what
was evidently a sunken rock, lying three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. of the
southernmost of the Fisher Islands, in lat. 12° 1' N., long. 109° 19' E."

Tre' Island, in lat. 12° 16' N., is high, and contains several coves, where
vessels may repair damages. The ship ITpfon Castle anchored to the west-
ward of Tre Island, between the inner of the small islands and the main, to
the southward of Nha-trang Bay, and found it good anchorage, and conve-
nient for watering.

NHA-TRANG BAY is large, and protected by Tre Island and its adjoin-
ing isles to the southward, and by the mainland and Pyramid and Dune
Islands to the northward and eastward. The anchorage is in 8 fathoms, good
holding ground, with the entrance of Nha-trang River bearing about N.W.
•r N.W. ^ N., distant 1 mile, and Tre Island E.S.E. The river has a bar,

THE FISHER ISLANDS-HON COHE BAY. 449

will only admit vessels drawing 7 or 8 ft. water, and communicates with
Nha-trang city, about 5 miles to the westward. This city is the capital of
the provinces Nha-trang and Binkang, and has a fort, built in the European
manner, by Monsieur Oliver, a French engineer. Here they manufacture
some silk and other articles, and carry on trade with different parts of the
coast.

A ship in want of wood or water may obtain them by touching at this
place.

To proceed into Nha-trang Bay by the South entrance, a vessel may pass
on either side the Fisher Islands, then between Tre Island and the two isles
to the S. W. of it. Between the West point of Tre Island and the main, the
channel is 1|^ or H mile wide.

The northern entrance into Nha-trang Bay, although wide, has a coral
bank nearly in mid-channel, opposite the large Bay of Binkang, which makes
it necessary to keep nearest to Tre Island.

It is high water, full and change, at Nha-trang Bay, at 8i hours ; and the
rise and fall is 5 or 6 ft. There is only flood and one ebb in 24 hours.

The FISHER ISLANDS are three small barren islands, with some rocks
close to them. Pyramid, the southernmost island, in lat. 12° 19' N., is a high
regular cone or pyramid, conspicuous as a mark in sailing along the coast.
The channel between it and Tre Island is safe.

Dune Island, lying about a mile to the N.E. of Pyramid, is of moderate
height, flat on the summit, like the crown of a hat, when viewed in some
directions ; to the south-eastward of it are some islets or rocks. Shala lies 5
or 6 miles to the northward of Dune Island, and about 3 miles to the south-
eastward of the peninsula of Hon Cohe.

HON COHE BAY, the next large bight to the northward of Binkang Bay,
which is shallow, has several islands in it, the outermost of which, called
Bac, has, about a mile eastward of it, a rock called the Button, and three
islands to the westward. Between Bac and the eastern of these three islands
there is a safe passage, and also between the latter and the other two islands,
which lie much nearer the western shore ; but the widest channel is outside
Bac, between it and the East point of entrance of the bay. At the head of
the harbour is the village of Hon Cohe.

On the East side of the bay are several islands at the entrance of Couabd
Harbour, into which ships may warp, and moor to the trees, there being
plenty of water and no danger ; but vessels do not usoally go there, as the
harbour is inhabited only by a few fishermen. This harbour or cove is
formed by high mountains.

At Hon Cohe it is high water, full and change, at 11^ hours ; and the tide
rises 5 ft.

The Three Kings are three rocks, lying about 1^ mile eastward of the

I. A. S 31

450 COCHIN CHINA.

eastern point of entrance of Coua-be Passage. They are bold to approach,
having 30 fathoms water near them, with a passage between them and the
point.

HONE GOME BIGHT.— About 5 miles northward of the Three Kings,
and close to a point of the main land, lies the small island Boi-moi, at some
views resembling a turret or sentry-box. The point, from which this island
is separated by a very narrow channel, is the easternmost land of Cochin
China, being a little to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Varela. Be-
tween it and Cape Varela, the land forms a concavity called Hone Come
Bight, in which the soundings are regular, and there is good anchorage in
8 or 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, at the South side, about 2 miles W.N.W. of
the point, near a small island. The sandy flat, which extends from the
high land of Coua-be to that of Cape Varela, is a neck of land scarcely a
mile broad in some places, separating the head of Hon Cohe Bay from the
sea ; and the three islands in the middle of that bay may in passing be per-
ceived over the sandy flat.

Water can be obtained at the southern extremity of the sandy flat, but in
the dry season wells must be dug in the sand, at some distance from the sea.
Fresh water may be procured in this manner on most parts of the coast.

PORT ONG-RO, at the northern extremity of Hone Come Bight, seems
safe at all times. It is about a mile wide at entrance, stretching about 3
miles inland, in a north-easterly direction, with soundings of 8, 7, and 6
fathoms, close to the village at its head. The bottom is fine clay. Pulo Varela
is a small island near the shore, to the south-westward of the entrance.

Water. — On the West side of the harbour fresh water may be procured in
several places, but the best watering place is about half-way up on the same
side, to the north-eastward of a little cove.

CAPE VARELA, or Pagoda Cape, in lat. 12° 55' N., long. 109° 24|' E., is
formed of steep clifi's, extending nearly North and South 2^ miles, having in
the middle of them a small sandy bay, where a stream of excellent water
descends from the mountain into the sea. The cape itself may be seen from
a distance of 28 or 30 miles, and when first perceived in coming from the
northward appears like an island, the gap of low land which joins it to the
mountain behind being then depressed under the horizon. This mountain*
rises directly over the cape, and upon its summit there is a large perpendi-
cular rock, resembling a pagoda or chimney, called Da-bia by the natives,
which makes it very conspicuous ; and it may be seen about 60 miles dis-
tance from the deck of a large ship, either from the northward or southward,
in clear weather ; but the summits of the mountains are frequently obscured
by clouds or vapours, particularly in the N.E. monsoon. The cape may be

. * There is a hot spring in the middle of the cape mountain, and there is said to be silver
ore in some of the mountains, which form double and treble ridges behind the cape.

PEEFORATED ROCK -PHI' YEN HARBOUR. 451

approached close to, there being 20 and 25 fathoms water around it at a
small distance from the shore.

Directions. — From abreast Davaich Head or False Cape Varela the course
is N. by E. ^ E. and N. by E., until Pyramid Island and the other islands
adjacent to it are passed, then N. ^ E., and North to Cape Varela. The
best track in the night, with a fair wind, is to keep from 6 to 9 miles off the
di£Ferent headlands, which, with the Fisher Islands and Pyramid group, will
be visible at that distance in passing along, if the weather be clear. When
the weather is unfavourable, edge farther out, to give the islands a prudent
berth : and if soundings are obtained, the vessel will not be far from them,
or some of the headlands.

From Cape Varela to Cape San-ho the course is N. by W., or N. ^ W.,
about 50 miles, but soundings will not be obtained in this track unless near
the coast. A little inland there is a mount in the vicinity of the city of
Quinhon, with a spired pagoda on it ; further to the northward there is a
mountain, on the summit of which there is a tower crowned with a small
spire or funnel ; the latter is in about lat. 14° 6' N., and they are discernible
when sailing along the coast at a considerable distance.

PERFORATED ROCK.— About 4 miles North from Cape Varela lies a
mass of rocks, some of them level with the water's edge ; but the central
rock is considerably elevated, with a large stone on its summit, appearing as
if placed by art ; in passing near it, when abreast, a hole through will be
perceived below the upper stone, which has given it the name of Perforated
Rock. There is safe passage, with 20 to 25 fathoms water, between it and
the mainland,

PHUYEN BIGHT is formed by the land taking a West and N.W. direc-
tion from Cape Varela to the Phuyen River, which is distant from the cape
about 11 miles. About 18 or 20 miles N.W. from the cape, not far inland,
stands a high isolated mountain, which, being a regular cone, is called
Conical Mountain, or Epervier ; a little to the S. W. of it there is a sloping
piece of land, with a rock or pagoda on it, which is only discerned when
near the shore. Here the mountains recede to the westward, a great dis-
tance inland, and the Cape Varela chain stretching also to the westwai-d, a
large space of low land is formed close to the sea round Phuyen Bight,
between Cape Varela and Conical Mountain.

PHUYEN HARBOUR.— The entrance to this great inlet, in lat. 13° 23' N.,
is about 2 miles wide, with 10 and 11 fathoms water on either side the
small island that lies a little inside, called Nest Island, from the West side
of which a reef extends in that direction nearly a quarter of a mile. The
country around this excellent inlet, one of the best in the world, is well
cultivated, and, together with the houses and huts interspersed along the
hills, presents on entering it a beautiful landscape. The province of Phuyen
is better cultivated than any other in Cocliin China.

452 COCHIN CHINA.

The inlet has general depths in it from 12 to 5 fathoms ; and three an-
chorages, Port Xuan-dai on its South side, Port Vung-Iam on its West side,
and Port Vung-chao in its N.E. corner. The anchorage of Port Xuan-dai is
in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, with the entrance of the river bearing South,
and Nest Island about N.E. by E. That of Port Vung-lam is in 7 fathoms,
mud, on the North side of an island that fronts the port, with the village
bearing S.W. by "W. Port Vung-chao is sheltered from every wind by
circumjacent mountains, and the anchorage is in 4J or 5 fathoms, with the
houses in the grove of cocoa-nut trees bearing S.E. to S.E. by E. The
North shore of this port is fronted by a coral reef, which is visible at low-
water. In proceeding towards Vung-chao the Buoy Pock must be avoided
which lies nearly awash about a third of a mile from the eastern shore
of the inlet. There is a small cove, called Vung-la, on the North side of
entrance of the inlet, where two or three vessels might be hove down, if
requisite.

The watering place is in a small bay to the N. by E., in which is a fine
cascade close to the beach, and very convenient for watering.

Gain-Ba Point, about 3 miles northward of the entrance of Phuyen
Harbour, has small bays formed on each side of it. About 3 miles to the
northward of Gain-ba Point is another point called Vung-trich ; and 4^
miles beyond the latter is another, named Vung-mon ; these two points are
also bold.

COU-MONG HARBOUR.— Between Vung-trich and Vung-mon Points is
the bay of Vung-mon, which is safe to approach, with regular soundings in
it towards the shore. On its South side, in lat. 13° 30' N., is the very narrow-
entrance of Cou-mong Harbour, with 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, 5 and
4 fathoms a little inside, and 3 to 4 fathoms to the southward of the small
island, Cou-mong, in the middle of the harbour. This is an excellent cove
for small vessels, or those of middling size ; and there is a little village
among the cocoa-nut trees to the northward of the island.

PULO CAMBIR (the centre), in lat. 13° 32 J' N., and 4 or 5 miles west-
ward of the meridian of Cape Varela, has a regular sloping appearance, and
is visible about 18 miles from a ship's deck; it is of considerable size, ex-
tending N.N.W. and S.S.E., having a few fishermen's huts on the S.W.
side ; and at a short distance S.E. from its South end there are some sharp-
peaked rocks, called the Two Paps. This island is nearly abreast and about
2 or 3 miles distant from Vung-mon Point ; and the channel between it and
the coast is safe.

Date Island, lying about 6 miles N.N.W. of Vung-mon Point, and 1^ mile
distant from the main, is of round form, and covered with trees. From
Vung-mon Point to opposite Date Island the coast is steep and very moun-
tainous, forming a considerable bight, called Cambir Bay.

aUIN-HON HARBOUR, the entrance to which is about North distant 6

CAPE SANHO, ETC. 453

miles from Date Island, is bounded on the West by a neck of sand about
4 miles long, and on tlie East by high steep land. This harbour, once a
place of considerable trade, is likely again to become of importance, as it was
opened to foreign commerce on Nt)vember 1st, 1875. It is sheltered from
southerly winds by the curved form of the high land on that side of the
entrance, and is protected by forts built on the point ; but vessels of large
draught are prevented from entering it by a shoal bank that extends a long
way out from the western point, and which, stretching across to the land
on the East side of the entrance, forms a bar, on which there are only 3 and
3J fathoms water.

The deepest water is close to the eastern point of entrance, where, it is
stated, a vessel may carry from 3^ to 4 fathoms on the bar, at high water
spring tides; inside of it the depth increases to 7, 8, and 10 fathoms. The
western part and bottom of the harbour is a spacious lagoon, with shoal
water ; several small rivers fall into it, one of which communicates with the
city of Quin-hon, situated about 15 miles to the westward, and is the capital
of the province of the same name.

CAPE SAN-HO, in lat. 13° 44' N., long. 109° 14' E., about 2^ or 3 miles
eastward of the entrance of Quin-hon Harbour, is a high blujff headland,
forming the eastern point of the Bay of Quin-hon. Close to the land, a
little to the northward of the cape, there is an island, called Hau by the
natives ; and the coast, which extends about 5 miles North from the cape, is
steep and high.

Abreast the North point of this high land there are some small islets, one
of which, called Cau, is of a round form, and lies about one mile off the
point ; and nearly 1 J mile outside of this there are some rocky islets, named
Hom-Co by the natives, and by Europeans Black Jack.

BUFFALO ISLAND, in about lat. 14° 5' N., and 4 miles distant from the
high land abreast, is a convex rock of sloping form, moderately elevated, but
will not be seen in the night until it is approached very close. It lies 15
miles to the northward of the North point of the high land that forms Quin-
hon Harbour ; from which point the coast is low for some distance, and agaia
becomes high opposite Buffalo Island. The water is very deep outside this
rock, and the coast to the westward is bold and safe to appi-oach, having
soundings of 14 and 16 fathoms near the shore.

Nuoc-Ngol, or Fresh-water Point and Bay, lie about 9 miles to the N.W.
of Buffalo Island. Turtle Island, about 9 miles farther to the northward,
and 3 miles off shore, is small, and very little above water ; but there is a
safe channel between it and the shore. Tarn- Quam River disembogues in
about lat. 14° 32' N., at the northern extremity of a sandy flat; the bar at
the entrance is passable only by boats at high water. Tiphou River falls into
the sea at 5 miles to the southward of the Tam-quam, in the middle of the
sandy flat.

454 COCHIN CHINA.

The Coast from Tam-quam Point trends about North 6 miles, and then
N.W. by N. about 33 miles to the entrance of the Quan-gai River. It is
steep and bold to approach. Contiguous to the sea the coast is of moderate
height, but the country is very high inland. There is anchorage ofiF the
Quan-gai Elver.

Cape Batangan, in lat. 15° 16' N., about 6 miles to the north-eastward of
the river, projects to seaward, and forms on its South side a bay, in which,
at about a mile distant from the cape, there are some rocks, called Rochy
Islands, nearly even with the water's edge ; the country vessels sometimes
pass between these rocks and the cape. There is also a rock with 2 5 fathoms
of water over it, in about 15° 13' 15" N., a short distance off the coast, on
which the French transport V Indre struck in 1875. From it Plat Rock bore
S. 28° E., tnie, distant H mile. The coast from this cape to Cape Bantam
runs about N.N.W. 12 miles, and the soundings are 20 and 25 fathoms near
the shore.

PULO CANTON, called Collao-ray Island by the natives, in lat. 15° 24' N.,
long. 109° 6' E., is of considerable size, and visible 26 or 27 miles from the
deck of a large ship. It has a level aspect when viewed from southward ;
its West side is inhabited, well cultivated, and fresh water may be procured.
A reef projects from its S.E. end ; and to the northward there are overfalls
and rocky bottom, extending about 3 miles from it, and a low island that lies
about 2 miles to the north-westward.

The channel between Pulo Canton and the main is safe, with soundings
of 25 to 40 fathoms.

Caution. — It may be proper to observe, that vessels adopting the inner
passage to China during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, in June, July,
and August, ought not to edge off from the coast of Cochin China until they
pass within sight of Pulo Canton, particularly if the winds are light and
baffling. On an old French manuscript chart, a reef is placed in lat. 13° 58'
N., long. 110° 20' E.

Q.TJI-Q.U'IK BAY, formed on the "West side of Cape Bantam, close to the
foot of high mountains, is about 4 miles wide and 6 miles deep, with some
islets in it, and small creeks where fresh water may be procured ; and it
affords good anchorage in the S.W. monsoon. At its N.W. extremity there
is a small bay or cove under Cape Eappoix, said to afford shelter in the N.E.
monsoon.

FALSE COLLAO ISLAND. — From Cape Happoix the coast trends nearly
N.W. by N. about 45 miles to Cape Touron, and in this space the country is
mountainous a little inland. About 9 miles northward from Cape Happoix,
and about 11 miles off the coast, lies the island of False Collao, of consider-
able height, and a reef is said to project from its South extreme.

CHAM-COLLAO (the South part), in lat. 15° 54' N., long. 108° 36}' E.,
and 9 miles distant from the main, is a high island, about 6 miles in length

TOUEON BAY-RIYER HUE. 455

N.N.W. and S.S.E., having some islets adjoining its South end, and others
as far as 6 miles westward from its N.W. part. Tc is inhabited, well culti-
vated, and the anchorage on the West side, in 4 or 4J fathoms near the
village, may be considered a safe harbour in all winds. Opposite this island
lies the entrance of the Fai-foh River, which, by a narrow arm of the sea,
communicates with Touron Bay. Near the entrance of this river there is a
mass of marble rocks, very conspicuous when sailing near the coast.

TOURON BAY.— Cape Totiron, or Tien-Tchu, in lat. 16° 8' N., long. 108°
21' E., is the eastern extreme of the peninsula that forms the East side of
Touron Bay (called Han-san by the natives) ; and CoUao-Han, or Touron
Island, in lat. 16^ 12' N., long. 108° 16' E., lies close to the point of land that
forms the N.W. side of its entrance. The entrance is 2f miles wide, with
regular soundings of 15 and 14 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8, 7, and 6
fathoms. The northern shore of the peninsula must be given a berth, for a
reef, on which the sea sometimes breaks, projects about three-quarters of a
mile from the third point. A rock awash lies a quarter of a mile off the
North point of the peninsula, with a depth of 6 and 7 fathoms between it
and the shore. The inner point of the peninsula is also joined to a small
contiguous island by a shoal. This small island is in lat. 16° 7' N., lono-.
108° 17' E., and the usual anchorage for ships is to the southward of it, in 4
or 5 fathoms, sheltered from all winds.

This was formerly a great place of trade, and some European nations had
factories here ; but no trade has been carried on by Europeans to this port
for a considerable time past.

In Touron Bay it is high water, full and change, at 2>^, and springs rise
4 feet.

CAPE CHOUMAY, or Chouvay, in lat. 16° 21' N., and 22h miles N.W. by
W. from Cape Touron, is the extremity of a round and rugged peninsula of
moderate height, which, united to the coast by an isthmus of sand, appears
like an island with two summits when seen from the N.E. or S.W. A chain
of high mountains with round summits extends almost to the coast. There is
good anchorage in a small bay on the West side of the cape, where there is
a river. A canal leads from Cape Choumay to Hue, and facilitates the com-
munication between that city and Touron.

The RIVER HUE, or Hue-Fo, the entrance to which is in lat. 16° 34' 50"
N., is generally considered the boundary between the coast of Cochin China
and Tong King. Between Cape Choumay and this river the coast is farmed
of sand-hills, the summits of which are covered with numerous villages,
surrounded by trees and cultivated fields ; a peculiarity which will prevent
mistaking this part of the coast for that North of Hue, where the villages
are on the sides and not on the summits of the sand-hiUs. The position of
the ri?er is marked by a large fort with a flagstaff, built on the West point
of entrance ; at half a mile West of this is a small hill with a remarkable

456 THE GULF OF TONG KING.

pagoda. There is good anchorage off the mouth of the river in 6 fathoms,
muddy bottom ; but it is said that there is a heavy swell along the coast
during the N.E. monsoon. The bar of the river has only 10 ft. on it at low
water,

The city of Hue, situated about 12 miles from the mouth of the river, is
sometimes the residence of the king of Cochin China. It is composed of two
parts, the inner, and the outer town where the mass of the population re-
sides, which has been estimated at 100,000 souls ; the inner town is a large
square fortress, built after Vauban, according to the plans of the French
engineers. The river encloses it on two sides, besides a canal 130 ft. broad,
by which it is entirely surrounded.

2.— THE GULF OF TONG KING.

The GULF of TONG KING, or Tonquin, is the great bend of the coast
comprised between the parallels of 17° and 22° N., and which is rendered a
deep inlet by the peninsula of Lien-chew and the island of Hainan, which
protect it to the eastward. The entrance between Cape Lay on the West
and the S.W. part of Hainan on the East is about 120 miles wide, which is
the general width of the gulf itself. Several islands lie contiguous to the
western shore of the gulf, and numerous small islands and shoals at its head.
Soundings may be obtained all over it, 45 and 40 fathoms in the middle, de-
creasing towards either shore ; the bottom is generally soft, fit for anchorage.
In some parts the soundings appear to be irregular, for the ship Holla, in
lat. 17° 25' N., to the northward of Tiger Island, shoaled from 35 and 30
fathoms mud, to 10 fathoms on a bank, steering W. by S. ; and soon deepened
again to 25 and 30 fathoms, steering W. by N.

CAPE LAY. — From the Hue River a low and sandy coast trends about
N.W. I "W. 47 miles to Cape Lay, which itself is rocky, of moderate height,
and covered with several patches of trees. A bank extends a short distance
off this cape; within 2 miles of the cape the depth varies from 15 to 20
fathoms.

TIGER ISLAND, distant about 12 miles E. by N. from Cape Lay, was
explored in 1831 by Laplace, Commander of La Favorite. It is small, about
a mile in extent, and its centre rises to a peak about 328 ft. in height, which
is visible in clear weather at a distance of 15 to 18 miles. The South point
is perpendicular ; the North point terminates in a low, narrow neck of land.
The channel which separates it from the coast is clear, with 17 to 23 fathoms
water.

The Coast north-westward of Cape Lay is sandy and low ; it trends first to
the N. by W. for about 31 miles, after which it inclines towards the West
as far as the entrance of the river Quia Hoy, at which stands a fort ; from,

CAPE'BOUNG QUIOUA— NORTH WATCHER. 4.57

thence the coast runs N. by W. for about 30 miles to Cape Boung Quioua,
forming a bay of moderate depth.

CAPE BOUNG aUIOUA.-To the northward of Quia Hoy the sand-hills
are of a reddish colour, and their summits are covered with brushwood. The
coast here is elevated, and forms two bays of considerable depth, in each of
which is a small stream. Cape Boung Quioua, easily known by its large red
spots, is formed of elevated land. There are two islands near it, and a third
at 2^ or 3 miles to the S.S.W. ; the latter is named Boissieux Islatid, and it
terminates towards the West in a long reef which projects !{ mile towards
the coast.

The anchorage of Boung Quioua is very good for all kinds of vessels during
the N.E. monsoon. A vessel can anchor in 4f to 6 fathoms, sandy bottom,
, under shelter of the islands.

About 2? miles E.S.E. from Cape Boung Quioua the charts show a skoal
.with 10 fathoms water; its position, however, is uncertain. Lat. 17° 50' N.,
.long. 107° E.

SOUTH WATCHER.— At 7i miles E. by S. from the cape, in lat. 17^ 55'
, 10" N., is a barren and rugged rock, called South Watcher Island, having
17 fathoms at less than a cable's length from its western side, decreasing to
9y fathoms near the small islands near the cape.

TSEU or Goat Island, also called Sovel, lies near a promontory 1,410 ft.
.high, and is distant 12 miles N.N.W. from Cape Boung Quioua. When seen
from the East it appears like two pointed hummocks, with a perpendicular
cliff towards the North, and sloping to the South ; it is surrounded by a reef
which extends more particularly to the South and West. There is an islet at
2 miles N.E. of Sovel. It is a jagged rock with a number of pointed peaks.

Tides. — A short distance to the southward of Sovel, during a period of
two weeks, only one tide was observed in 24 hours ; excepting for three or
four days, during which there were two tides per day. The range of tide
was about 10 ft., but this rise decreased in proportion in going southward.

At 6 miles to the West of Sovel is a small port open only from the North
,to N.W. The bottom is sandy, and it is sheltered from the East and N.E.
by a rocky peninsula, connected with the coast by a narrow sandy isthmus,
which running to a point projects half a mile from the shore.

The Coast from Cape Boung Quioua has been entirely mountainous, but
from the small port just mentioned it trends to the N.W. by W., and alters
to a sandy shore occasionally interrupted by isolated mountains, the first of
which, called the Mamelles {Paps), is easily distinguished by its two summits,
1,656 ft high, which in coming from the South are liable to be mistaken for
those of Sovel.

NORTH WATCHER (marked Hot Island on the chart) is a small island,
lying 10 miles N.W. from the MameUee, 21 miles N.W. J W. from Sovel,
I. A. 3 K

458 THE GULF OF TONG KING. *

and 3 miles North of a prominent hill 2,033 ft. high. To the SE. of it is a
much smaller island, a short distance southward of which the sea has been
seen breaking.

The coast from abreast the North Watcher changes its direction to N.W.
by N. for 45 miles, and then runs N.N.E. as far as Bien Shan Island, thus
forming a large bay, in which, at 2 or 3 miles from the shore, the depth is
6^ fathoms. A short distance before arriving abreast of the North Watcher,
high mountains appear in the N.W. and N.N.W., and in front of this part
of the coast lies Matt Island.

Matt Island, formerly called FrahaU, in lat. 18° 50' N., and about 10 miles
from the shore, is 1 mile in length, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and precipitous on
all sides except the South.

Besides two small islands lying at less than half a mile E. by S. from Matt,
there are between Matt and the coast two rocks ; the one, distant about 4
miles S.W. of Matt, is 32 ft. above the sea, and at a short distance resem-
bles a junk under sail ; and the other, about 1 mile N.N.W. of the former,
is low and flat, and consequently dangerous.

GNEU ISLAND, lying about 6 miles West of Matt, and about 2 miles
from the coast, consists of two hills separated by a neck of low land ; so
that from a distance, with the island bearing South, it will appear like two
islands.

PORT of LACHT KOUENN.— The coast from abreast Gneu Island ad-
yances more towards the sea, and forms a bay, at the head of which are high
mountains, with a flat shore at their base. The port of Lacht Kouenn,
situated in this bay, in about lat. 19° 4' 30" N., long. 105° 43' 9" E., is a
good anchorage for small vessels ; its entrance, which faces the S.S.E. and
is not more than a cable wide, has on the West side a large rock, called Dog
Eock, which is connected with the shore by a narrow isthmus, only seen at
low water.

This harbour, which is the best of those that have been explored on the
coast of Tong King by M. E. Ploix, is sheltered from all winds, except those
from the West, by rather higher mountains.* It is 2 to 3 cables in width,
with about 1^ fathom least water in it at low tide. The river Lacht Kouenn
empties itself into it, coming from the W.N.W.

• The size of the rivers of Tong King, which flow into the sea between lat. 20' and 21*
North, is shown by the great amount of alluvion that has been deposited, and which is
estimated to be about 328 ft. per annum, being the amount which the bank of the river
encroaches on the sea. At their entrance the fall of water is about 10 ft., and about 16 ft.
during spring tides, if we can believe the inhabitants. The depth varies, no doubt, with
the quantity of rain that falls into the basin, the melting of snow on the hills, where the
rivers find their source, and the force and direction of the wind on the coast ; but 10 ft.
rise and fall may always be depended on, and vessels of a certain draught are always sure
of being able to penetrate into the country.— IT. E, Ploix.

ME' ISLAND-KIAO RIVER. 459

Coal is found at the village of Magne Shan, on the East shore of the
harbour.

It is high water, full and change, at this harbour, at 10'', and the range
of tide is from 8| to 9^ ft.

ME ISLAND, in lat. 19° 21' N., and 8 miles from a projecting point of the
coast, is the most northern of a considerable group of islands, about 25 in
number, of diflFerent forms, and nearly all precipitous. The most western,
which is flat and precipitous on all sides, is called Bong Island.

BIEN SHAN ISLAND lies to the westward of Me Island, and rather near
the coast. It is about 2 or 3 miles long North and South, and its northern
part turns abruptly to the West, and forms a bay, which affords anchorage
for small vessels, sheltered from the westward. Larger vessels can anchor
at the entrance of this bay.

At Bien Shan it is high water, full and change, at S*" SC", and the rise of
tide is about 10 ft.

The Coast from Bien Shan Island runs northward, and afterwards N.N.E.
At 6 miles North of the island is the river Keun-hong, in which the water is
very shallow. Here the coast changes its aspect, the hills are at a greater
distance from each other, and as the country with which they are surrounded
is very low, they appear like islands.

Ne' Island, lying about 3 miles from the shore, and in lat. 19° 52' 30" N.,
is the last island met with before arriving at the head of the gulf. It affords
a temporary shelter from North winds in about 6^ fathoms water.

To the S. W. of Ne, and upwards of a mile from the coast, is an islet about
1 3 to 16 ft. high ; here the river Trann falls into the sea, and on its bar is a
depth of 2 fathoms at low water. It is high water, full and change, at the
mouth of the Trann River, at S"* 30"", and springs rise about 10 ft.

KIAO RIVER.— About 4 or 5 miles to the S. W. of the point before which
lies the island Ne, and on a low beach, is the mouth of the river Kiao, on
the bank of which, and 6 miles in the interior, stands the arsenal of Hamatt,
where the king's vessels are built. These pass across the bar without any
cargo, with IJ fathom at high tides. This river communicates with the
river Trann, which, as mentioned before, falls into the sea opposite Ne.

The Coast to the northward of Ne Island is a chain of serrated mountains,
and from them the country, for a considerable distance inland, is entirely
flat. As far as these mountains, the depths appeared to decrease in a
regular manner on approaching the coast, but on leaving it they were
irregular. Frooi these mountains the land forms a great convex bend to-
wards the East ; nothing is to be seen but a low shore, relieved at a distance
by trees, which here and there appear to rise out of the sea. Fronting this
shore are extensive banks, stretching in some places from 8 to 10 miles east-
ward. Mountains become visible in the N.W., but they are far inland.

Three great rivers, the Dai, Lak, and the Balat, form here a great delta ;

460 THE GULF OF TONG KING.

they communicate with each other partly by natural means, and partly by
canals constructed by the inhabitants. Pilots are also indispensable in order
to anchor before their mouth. A line of soundings, of 8 to 11 fathoms,
rock and sand, was carried by the Primauguet at about 7 miles from the
visible coast.

The RIVER DAI falls into the sea to the eastward of the above serrated
mountains. The Preffent, which anchored off its mouth at the end of De-
cember, 1859, found on the bar a depth of 6^ ft., muddy sand, at low water,
which would give, according to the tidal observations made along the coast,
about 13 ft. at high water, in ordinary weather. After crossing the bar the
depth increases to 3f fathoms at the entrance. The missionaries assert that
there are 3J fathoms water before their house, which stands about 20 miles
up the river,

RIVER BALAT.— The Primauguet anchored in lat. 20° 12' N., about 6
miles S.S.E. from the mouth of the River Balat or Keua-dong, the deepest of
the three rivers, and rather near the banks to the West, having at less than
a mile another bank to the N.E., at the "West side of which terminates the
canal which joins the branch West of Balat (Keua-dong), this being the
deepest channel to enter the country. The pilots state that there are 5^ ft,
at low water, and 10|^ to 12| ft. at high-water spring tides.

At 15 to 20 miles from the mouth of the Balat, and near the junction of a
natural branch, which flows to the South and unites the rivers Dai and Lak,
the river becomes much broader. The fort Mom-ro is erected here, and
opposite to it a toll-bar is established, which seems to be halfway between
the coast and Nam-binh, the first town of Tong King after Keicho. Beyond
Mom-ro the rivers, which discharge themselves into the sea partly by the
Dai and Lak, and partly by the three or four branches of the Balat, unit©
and become one large river, which is no doubt deep.

Nam-binh does not stand quite on the River Balat, but on a canal of little
depth, which joins the river about 3 miles from the town. The other part
of this canal enters at Roukbo into the river Dai, a little below the old esta-
blishment of the French missionaries, and the important town of Nim-binh,*
the second in the province. A little above Nam-binh are the old factories,
and farther to the N.W. lies Keicho, the capital of Tong King, which it
appears can be reached by vessels drawing about 9f ft. water.

Tides. — From tidal observations made on board the Primauguet, at the
anchorage otf the mouth of the river Balat, the establishment appeared to be
4 hours, and the rise of tide from 6 to 9 ft., the flood coming from the South,

* At Balat, the foniier limits of the coast, at the time of the commerce with Holland
(about 200 years ago), is at present about 4 or 6 miles in the interior. Balat is one of the
three ports op«m;d to French commerce by the treaty of Saigon.

RIVER LACHT HUEN. 461

and tlie ebb from the North. It was difficult to determine if there was only
one tide every day.

Keicho, or Hanoi, hereafter described, the capital of Tong King, is about
28 leagues up the river Balat. It is more than 150 years since European
vessels traded to this river, and the knowledge of the navigation of the
gulf not having been carefully recorded, it is now almost lost to Europeans.
Trade, however, may again open up, but for the present the treaty port of
Haiphong, on the Cua Cam River to the northward, will probably absorb
the little trade there is. According to M. Ploix, it appears that vessels of
about 10 ft. draught can go as far as the capital, but that there are dan-
gerous gravel banks before reaching it. Keicho is in about lat. 21° N., long.
105° 47' E. It is badly fortified ; the houses are constructed of earth and
wood, covered with cane, leaves, or thatch. The Dutch and Portuguese had
commercial establishments here, but they have been destroyed long ago.
The silk and porcelain manufactures of Keicho are the most valued of thia
part of the East.

The Coast North of the entrance of the Balat, as far as Cape Daushon
(Too-shan), is low, and its direction is N.N.E. nearly. It appears that there
are some rivers within this limit, and a line of soundings, from 3^ to 9 fa-
thoms, was carried at a distance of 5 or 6 miles from the shore.

RIVER LACHT HTJEN.— Between Daushon and another projecting point
the coast forms a bay with an opening 10 or 12 miles wide, but it is almost
entirely filled with banks. Into this bay fall the two principal and numerous
smaller branches of the Lacht Huen River (probably the Songka, Sangkoi,
or Red River). Up the southern of the principal outlets is the newly-opened
treaty port of Haiphong. The coast northward of the bay, into which the
River Lacht Huen flows, is steep-to, and is formed by extremely rugged
mountains, which determine deep bays, where a vessel drawing 1 1 ft. water
will find safe shelter.

The branches of the river forming the delta of Sangkoi may be navigated
by vessels drawing 16 ft. water, but which should not enter without the aid
of a local pilot, as the channels frequently change. Between the delta and
Hai-Dzeuong, about 50 miles up from the mouth of the Cua Cam branch,
there is usually a current running out of the river at the rate of half to one
knot. Above Hai-Dzeuong, in a narrow channel leading to Keicho, the
current runs IJ to 2 knots an hour. The water of the river is thick and of a
red colour, hence one of its names.

Tides. — According to the observations of Lieutenant T. Pepham, of the
French navy, the water on the bar of the Cua-cam entrance of Sangkoi
River rises and falls as follows : — When the moon's declination is North :
On the moon rising the water falls, and again commences to rise as the moon
sets. When the moon's declination is South : On the moon rising the water

462 THE GULF OF TONG KING.

oommenceg to rise, and again commences to fall as the moon sets. Tho
greatest range of tide is 13 ft.

Hondau Island and Lighthouse lie off the South extremity of Daushon
Point, in lat. 20° 40' N., long. 106° 47' E., and mark the West side of
the entrance to the Cua-Cam branch of the Lach Huen Elver, The island
is small, 100 ft. high, and the light, exhibited at an elevation of 164 ft.
above the sea, is & fixed white light, visible between the bearings of S. by E.
^ E. and N.E., and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 8
miles, but it is not a very reliable light.

A Eiiropean pilot is either stationed on Hondau, or is cruising between it
and Apowan ; he will take vessels up the Cua-Cam branch to Haiphong.
Pilotage is compulsory, the charges being 3.05 dollars a foot for steam
vessels, and 4.55 dollars a foot for sailing vessels. If no pilot come off,
vessels should anchor to the eastward of Hondau Island, and send to Hai-
phong. Care should be taken not to bring Hondau Island to bear southward
ofW.S.W., as the water shoals quickly inside that bearing from 31 to 2^
fathoms.

A vessel drawing 1 7 ft. can cross the bar at high water ordinary springs ;
at neaps there are about 14 ft. at high water, but the range of tide is very
uncertain, as is also the time of high water, at full and change.

HAIPHONG. — The following description is chiefly extracted from a pam-
phlet drawn up by N. B. Dennys, Esq., Ph. D., Secretary of the Hongkong
Chamber of Commerce :* —

The port of Haiphong, named also Haidong, or Hwafung, recently
opened to foreign trade under a treaty made with the Tonquinese, is situated
about 16 miles up the Cua Cam branch of the Lacht Huen River. The
town, a collection of huts, in about lat. 20° 49' N., long. 106° 40' E., is
at the mouth of a creek, which enters the Cua Cam on its right bank.
It contained, in 1876, a population of about 10,000; of whom 850 were
Chinese and 142 French, 120 of the latter being soldiers and marines who
have charge of two forts which command the passage of the river. These
forts are only to be held until indemnity is paid to the French and Spanish
governments. A French consul is resident. Only three steamers and three
Bailing vessels had visited the port between September, 1875, and April,
1876, which does not look very promising for future trade.

Supplies can be easily obtained. Water for drinking purposes is supplied
at one dollar per ton, but it can be more easily procured, and of better
quahty, from the French commissariat ; the charge for this is three dollars
per ton.

* A most valuable work for captains to have who intend visriting. Its title is, " Report
on the newly-opened Ports of Kiung-chow (Hoi How) in Hainan, and of Haiphong in
Tonquin (Visited in April, 1876), by N. B. Dennys, Ph. D., etc." Hongkong ; Printed by
Noronha & Sons, Oswald's Terrace, Wellington Street.

HAIPHONG. 463

In the narrow creek, on the bank of which is situated the custom-house,
are four wooden jetties, two on either side, one of which, on the East bank,
is used as a public wharf.

The river at Haiphong is 2§ cables wide and 4| fathoms deep. Vessels
drawing 15 ft. can anchor in mid-channel. Merchant vessels anchor N. and
E. of the northern fort ; man-of-war vessels N.W. from it.

Keicho, or Hanoi, the centre of commerce (Haiphong being its port), is
the capital of Tonquin, and head-quarters of French influence in that
country, and is situated inland, upon the river, at the mouth of which lies
Haiphong. By the most direct water route, the distance from its port is
about 60 miles ; but as the water in this channel is frequently too low to float
even the lightest draft boats, the usual route taken is by the main river
which extends the journey to about 150 miles. The enormous rise of the
Bpper waters during the rains (some 25 ft.) renders both channels equally
available for a short period in each year.

This latter lies through the Tai Bing Canal and Eed Eiver, upon the
banks of which latter Hanoi lies. It is very intricate, and the sands, which
abound in its course, are at times impassable. Vessels drawing only 6 ft.
can, however, generally manage to get up, the depth at low water varying
from f fathom to 2 fathoms. Keicbo may be also reached by proceeding up
the Balat Eiver as described on pages 460-1.

Hanoi is notable as the place where Lieut. Gamier (whose description of
this country, in a splendid work published in Paris in 1873, is so well known),
•was murdered in November, 1873. The town is situated on the left bank
of the river, and is said to contain 60,000 inhabitants, exclusive of 2,000 to
3,000 Chinese and some 175 Frenchmen. Missionaries have long been
resident in the district, which is said to contain 20,000 Christians. The
houses are mostly of brick. The chief trade is silk. No shipping, except
river and cargoe boats, is seen at Hanoi. One or two steam launches, how-
ever, run weekly between Haiphong and Hanoi. As at Haiphong the French
have some land on the river bank at Hanoi, ceded to them and other
foreigners, and some buildings are erected on it. So far wines and stores
have been the chief imports ; further trade is, however, likely to arise, es-
pecially as South-Western China can be reached by the Songka Eiver.
M. Dupuis was the first to do this successfully. In October, 1873, he con-
veyed an expedition up the river with arms, &c., for the Chinese, who were
then engaged in quelling disturbances. He describes the country as abound-
ing in the precious metals, as well as copper, iron, zinc, &c. The river at
Hanoi is 6 to 6 cables broad, and small vessels (probably of 8 or 9 feet
draught) may reach this point. There is a rise of 30 ft. in the summer, the
river being consequently wider and deeeper then. Imports and exports are
ae agreed by treaty, taxed 5 per cent, ad valorem, salt 10 per cent. The

464 COCHIN CHINA.

money, weights and measures will be described in the Appendix at the end
of this volume.

Directions for Eaiphong from the Southward. — Having passed Hondau
Lighthouse (the light from which is not to be depended on), bring Daushon
Point to bear S.W. by W. | W. distant half a mile, and steer N.W. J W.
for a distance of IJ miles, passing between fishing stakes on either side.

When Petit Mirador (a hill over a point lying N.W. from Hondau), bear-
inf S. by E. ^ E., is in line with the western base of Daushon Hill, seen
between a group of trees and the hill, steer in with this mark astern, allow-
ing for a strong tide off the mouth of the Cua-Cam River ; when Petit
Morne Oonique, which is easily recognised, bears W. by S. J S., the entrance
of the Cua-Cam River will be plainly visible to the eastward. Off the mouth
of this river, the shores of which are very low, a sharp shoulder of the higher
range of hills is in line with a low peak rising from the plain below ; from
this peak a table land extends westward, terminating in two conical shaped
hummocks. From this position a mid-channel course leads to Haiphong.

Or another leading mark is, after passing the fishing stakes, to bring
Hondau Island in line with Daushon Point, bearing S. by E. ^^ E., and keep
it so until Petit Morne Conique bears W. by S. J S., when proceed as before.
This mark leads close to a sand-bank North 2 miles from Daushon Point,
and as this is the shoalest part of the channel, the soundings should be care-
fully attended to. When a remarkable tree on shore comes in line with
Petit Morne Aplati, the sand-bank is passed. In order to keep in the deep
water channel. Petit Mirador must be kept open East of the group of trees
lying westward of the base of Daushon Hill.

Vessels can anchor off Petit Mirador in 14 ft. water, obtaining shelter
from N.E. winds.

PORT OTJNONG is on the East side of entrance of the East channel into
the River Lacht Huen. Off it is a rock called the JVinepin from its shape.
W. by S. three-quarters of a mile from the Ninepin is a dangerous rock with
about 1 1 ft. on it, and 8 fathoms close around it at low water.

In 1849 H.M. ships Columbine, Fury, and Phlegethon, entered the East or
Main Channel of the Lacht Huen River in chase of pirates. The entrance,
in lat. 20° 41' 40" N., is obstructed by a bar which they crossed at high water,
carrying 2f to 3 fathoms. Inside the bar the water deepens, and the shores
are generally bold, except off the West side, where there is an extensive
sand-bank. Wood was plentiful, but little water or provisions. The natives
said there was coal in the vicinity, but their accounts were vague.

The French ship Pregent entered this channel in 1859, and at that period
there were 1 1 ft. on the bar at low water.

During the Pregenfs stay in the Lacht Huen, there was only one tide every
24 hours ; during neap tides, however, there were 3 or 4 day* during which

APOWAN HARBOUR— GOW-TOW ISLAND. 465

there were two tides per day, but they were weak, and then one tide suc-
ceeds the other, so that the establishment at full and change is alternately
at I'' p.m. and l*" a.m. every 14 days. The rise and fall was about 10 ft.

Apowan Harbour lies about E. by N. 10 miles from Hondau Island. It
is reported to be a good typhoon harbour. The soundings inside are from 4
to 5 fathoms (soft mud), shoaling to 2 and 1 fathom towards the village.
The entrance is about 500 yards wide N.N.E. and S.S.W., with from 4 to 6
fathoms through it.

The Egeria anchored in Z\ fathoms, with centre of village bearing N.E. by
E. I E. ; left extreme of island to the south-eastward S.E. \ S. ; right ex-
treme of island to the south-eastward S. f E. ; loft extreme of island to
south-westward S.W. | S.

Vessels from the south-eastward, after passing Norway Islands, steer about
N.W., until a remarkable high nipple-shaped rock bears East, thence N.E.
for a cone-shaped peak which stands on the point at the East side of the
•entrance. The West entrance point consists of low rugged black rocks
which will appear overlapping the East entrance point as it is approached on
•a north-easterly course.

There is another entrance to Apowan Harbour from the south-eastward
by which the Egeria entered, having from 9 to 6 fathoms water, and passing
between some high precipitous islets about 150 yards apart. This entrance,
however, is unsafe, as there are said to be sunken rocks in the neighbour-
hood. There are 12 hours ebb and 12 hours flood at Apowan. The greatest
rise is from 12 to 13 ft., the least about 7 ft.

About 3 miles to the northward of Apowan is the eastern entrance to a
channel which leads across the peninsula to the westward. Its western en-
trance is about 2 miles northward of Ounong.

Chay-le-pi, an extensive group of rocks, some of which are always covered,
lie E. \ N. 19| miles from the Ninepin Rock. At 4 or 5 miles to the S.W.
of them is a small group of islands, the Norway Islands of the charts.

Between the Chay and Ninepin Rocks is the entrance of the remarkable
bay, called Fietze-loong , extending northward, and filled with islets and rocks
of limestone formation.

The North Coast of the Gulf of Tong King, as far as the strait of Hainan,
appears to be little known. It may be said to be bounded by banks and
rocks which extend a long distance off shore ; some large islands only have
been visited by the Columbine, Fury, and Phlegethon, when in pursuit of
pirates.

GOW-TOW ISLAND. — There are several islands between the Chay Rocks
and Gow-tow Island to the N.E. The Columbine passed to the southward of
Wuntaun Island and found a good passage 1^ mile broad. There is good
anchorage near Fungung, 4 or 5 miles West of Wuntaun.

Gow-tow, or Pirate Island, consists of a group of islands of which Chung-
I. A. 3 o

4pn GULF OF TONG KING.

Ian and Gow-tow are the largest ; the former is about 4 miles long and 1 to

2 miles broad, in a N.E. and S.W. direction.

A rid"-e of hills with an average height of about 500 ft., and sloping down
to the sea on both sides, occupies the centre of the island and terminates in
two or three abrupt precipitous cliffs of a red color, about 200 or 300 feet
lii"-h. Gow-tow Island is level and much, lower, having only one high conical
shaped bill near its North end. Its South end has several precipitous cliffs
similar to those on Chung-Ian, but not more than 100 ft. high.

There is a safe and spacious anchorage for vessels of moderate draught
between these two islands, sheltered by Chung-Ian to the eastward, by Gow-
tow to the westward, and by three or four smaller islands to the northward.
The Egeria entered it by a channel half a mile wide, which separates the
South point of Chung-Ian from Gow-tow Island. From the eastward Chung-
Ian was coasted along aboiit 2 miles distant in 15 and 13 fathoms water, and
when the passage between the two islands was well open, a N.N.W. course
was steered through it, avoiding the South point of Chung-Ian, where a
sunken reef on which the sea was breaking extends in a south-westerly direc-
tion The soundings varied from 10 to 7J fathoms in mid-channel, decreas-
ing to 6 fathoms as the vessel proceeded. The deepest water in this harbour
is close along the Chung-Ian shore, towards Gow-tow, and to the north-
westward, towards a smaller island in that direction, the water shoals to 2^
fathoms fully a mile and a half from the beaches.

The Egeria anchored off Chunglan Island, abreast a patch of black rocks
on the beach, with a quoin-shaped island bearing N.N.E. \ E., the North
extreme of Gow-tow Island N.W. by W. \ W., a conical peak on Gow-tow
N.W. by W., West side of the entrance S. f "W"., and the East side S. by
E. J E. ; deeper water, however, was found farther to the north-eastward to
within 300 or 400 yards of the beach.

There were only a few inhabitants on these islands ; pirates make perio-
dical raids and destroy the houses and crops. The ground appears fertile,
and has been cultivated in patches ; the hills are almost denuded of trees,
a feature by which this group may be distinguished from the islands to the
south-westward, which are all thickly wooded along their summits.

A reef, awash, nearly IJ cables long, running N.E. and S.W., lies about

3 miles from the N.W. point of Gow-tow Island ; this point may be rounded
close to. There is a reef bearing West, distant 4 miles from the anchorage
in Sha-pak-wan, the bay on the western side of the island. In the centre of
this bay, about 1^ mile from the shoie, is a cluster of dangerous rocks awash
at low water, bearing S.W. by S. from its N.W. point, and a reef, breaking
in bad weather, extends for about 2| cables to the S.W. from the south-
western point of the bay.

There is a channel with 2 ot 3 fathoms at low water between Gow-tow
and the island three-quarters of a mile ^northward of it, but a reef runs

CAPE PAHKLUNG. 467

along the N.E. shore of Gow-tow, coining close to the beach on its northern
side. The best channel is found by keeping close to this reef.

S.W. of Gow-tow is an archipelago of small grotesquely shaped islands
and pyramidal rocks, covered with thick jungle interspersed with patches
of lawn; they rise to a height of about 130 ft., and are steep-to ; numerous
caverns are to be found on their shores, in some cases forming natural
arches, having a depth of from 3 to 9 fathomss underneath them. There are
some rocks awash bearing S.S.E. about 2-J cables from the southern islands
of this group.

The main land recedes from the general run of the coast line in the
neighbourhood of these islands, forming the bay before mentioned about 13
miles deep, named Fietze-loong.

Gow-tow or Pirate Island has on its western side an extensive bay, which
is apparently without danger. "Wood and water may be obtained. There
are a few miserable huts on its shore. The anchorage is however considered
unsafe in bad weather on account of the heavy sea that enters.

The passage from Ching moy-tow Island to Gow-tow by Ye-moon passage
N. W. of Gow-tow, and also to Fietze-loong Bay has been frequently traversed
by the Anlan drawing 8 ft., and is apparently without danger.

Sat Island, in lat. 21° 20' N., long. 107° 46' E., is named from its resem-
blance to a Chinese hat, when seen from the eastward.

Tidal Streams. — Between Gow-tow and Norway Islands, and Hainan Strait,
the currents are reported to run 1 to 2 knots an hour in a north-easterly and
south-westerly direction. The Egeria experienced in April a set of about 28
miles S.W. i W. in a run of 24 hours from the entrance of Hainan Strait
to Gow-tow Island ; there had been a fresh north-easterly breeze during the
passage.

Lowseu Island lies 12 miles N.E. of the North extreme of Chung-Ian.
Good anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud, will be found off a little sandy bay oa
the S.W. side of this island.

Echim Island, 5 miles S.E. of Lowseu, is small, and lies about 2 or 3 cables
North of Tycham Island, to which it is apparently joined ; both islands ap-
peared to be fuul all round. Between Tycham Island and Chung-Ian, there
is a group of small islands, the most conspicuous of which, Chusan, is of a
pyramidal shape; it is the eastern island of the group, and lies S.W. ^ S.
from Lowseu Island.

CAPE PAHKLUNG is the eastern point of a bay in which are situate the
town and harbour of Choukshan. It is in lat. 21° 31' N., long. 108° 17' E.,
or about 8 miles to the eastward of the position assigned to it previous to
1876 ; it is a bold promontory, behind which rises a range of mountains 5,000
to 7,000 ft. high. The harbour, 12 miles West of Cape Pahklung, is on
the boundary between Cochin China and China. It is formed by shoals
on the East and a low point on the West, has 5 fathoms water in it ; pilots

468 GULF OF TONG KING.

may be obtained. The Columbine and Furi/ anchored off the shoals, with the
cape bearing N.E. A E., distant 6 miles.

Pahklung Rock (Pak-su-hai), lying S. | "W. 8 miles from Cape Pahklung,
is awash at high water, but being so far off the coast it makes the approach
to Choukshan Bay dangerous at night. It is in lat. 21° 22' N., long. 108°
14' E., or about 7 miles to the eastward of the position formerly assigned to
it on the chart. (H.M.S. Lili/, 1876.)

Guie Chow Island, bearing about S.E. | E. 58 miles from Cape Pahklung,
is 7 miles in extent East and West, and 400 ft. high. There is an excellent
harbour on its southern side. Chayung Island, lying 7 miles E.S.E. of Guie
Chow, is 4 or 5 miles in length, about 500 feet high, but affords no an-
chorage.

BACHT-LONG-VI, or NigUingah Island, in lat. 20° 8' N., long. 107° 46^''
E., from its position appears to form a good landmark for vessels bound to
the northern part of the gulf. It is 2 to 3 miles in length, N.E. and S.W.^
high, with a flat summit, and its sides are almost everywhere precipitous,
except to the S.E., where there are some huts along the shore. Off its low
N.E. point are sunken rocks, and breakers to the distance of half a mile-
The sea also breaks some distacee from the S.E. point of the island.

3.— COAST OF CHINA AND HAINAN ISLAND.

As before mentioned, the boundary line between Cochin China and China
reaches the coast at 12 miles West of Cape Pahklung. Of the small portion
of coast described in this chapter very little is known, and Hainan Island is
only becoming of interest on account of the new treaty port on its North
coast recently opened to commerce.

Between Cape Pahklung and Pakhoi, about 45 miles to the eastward, th&
northern shore of the Gult of Tonquin recedes, and is formed of the deltas
of several extensive rivers, one of which, the Zoong-moon, has its mouth 12
miles northward of Cape Pahklung.

The directions for Pakhoi are from those drawn up by Commander Coch-
rane in H.M.S. Zilg, in 1876, and by Capt. Cocker, of the Chinese gunboat
Feihoo.

PAK-HOI, opened to foreign trade in April, 1877, is entered between
the outer extremity of the fishing stakes off a sandy point li miles N.E. of
Quantow, and a large sand-bank, which protects the anchorage to the north-
ward J this channel is less than a cable broad, and to keep in not less than
15 ft. water, the stakes should be rounded as closely as possible, as the water
shoak rapidly to the sand-bank. Tikok village, hereafter mentioned, is in
lat. 2r 28' N., and long. 109° 5' 5" E. The anchorage at Pakhoi is good and

PAKHOI. 469

safe in any weatter. The exposed side faces the "West, But it is stated that
there is no force in the westerly winds here.

The deepest water in this anchorage, 25 feet at low water, is to be found
about 7 cables East of the outer extreme of the stakes, with the sandy point
bearing S.W. by W. The holding ground is of stiff mud, and should a vessel
remain for any length of time, the anchor should be occasionally lifted.

Supplies may be obtained from Pakhoi at moderate prices.

Directions for approaching Pakhoi from Hainan Strait. — The captain of a
vessel starting from Haik'ao (Hoi How), for Pak-hoi, ought, before weighing
anchor, to ascertain the condition of the tidal current, which runs East and
West, and vice versa, with great force in the Hainan Straits, and in his sub-
sequent navigation to make due allowance for its effect. It is the simplest
and safest plan to leave in the evening, and to steer from the centre of the
Hainan Straits West till Haik'ao is 30 or 35 miles distant, so as to keep
absolutely clear of any danger off Cape Cami, and to be certain of avoiding
a 3J-fathom8 patch of doubtful position, marked on the charts 13 miles West
of Cape Cami,

Having gone thus far, a course N.W. f W. for 34 miles, and then a course
North for 30 miles further, ought to lead a steamer westward of the exten-
sive banks lying as far as 20 miles off the land, and about daylight to the
first land, namely, the small island called on the charts Chayune, but known
to Chinese as Ch'ieh Yang. This island, which is high and bold, lies about
34 miles S.S.E. off Quantow Head, in lat. 20° 54' N., and long. 109° 13' E.
About 7 miles to the N.W. of it is the island of Weichow, called on the
charts Guiechow. Though larger in area, the latter island is much less
elevated than Ch'ieh Yang. It has a Catholic missionary, is apparently
well cultivated, and is foul off the North and East sides for a distance of
from 1 to 2 miles, and for about half a mile off the West and S.W. sides.
At night, when in the vicinity of Guiechow Island, do not shoal the water
less than 10 fathoms. After passing Ch'ieh Yanh (Chayune) about half a
mile to the East of it, in 9 or 10 fathoms, and keeping well clear of the reef
off Weichow (Guiechow), a course to N.N.W. will lead to Quantow Head,
"which will make as an island.

There are 5 fathoms of water to within a quarter of a mile of this head-
land. Between the island of Ch'ieh Yang (Chayune) and Quantow Head
innumerable heavy fishing stakes exist which render it a very imprudent
thing for a vessel to attempt to navigate this distance after dark.

To the eastward of Quantow Head the land is low, and the water shoal
for a long distance off shore, to avoid which, when approaching Pakhoi
from the southward, Quantow hills should not be brought to bear North of
N. by E.

Quantow Head is a bold headland 390 ft. high, forming the western ex-
tremity of a narrow peninsula of which the northern extremity is the pro-

470 GULF OF TONG KING.

jecting beach on which the village of Tikok, one of the limits of the Pakhoi
anchorage, is built. To enter the harbour after having reached about a
quarter of a mile to the West of Quantow Head, a vessel should steer for
the northei-n end of the fishing-stakes which will now be seen to the N.E.
planted athwart the entrance of the harbour in tiers running N.N.W. from
the village of Tikok for a distance of 830 yards, taking care not to get into
less water than 3 fathoms, as a sandspit runs out in a N.E. direction from
the N.N.W. point of the head ; at the same time a vessel must not go too
far olf, as there is a sand-bank running East and West to the North of the
fishing-stakes. The fishing-stakes can be passed close alongside (some in
fact occupy the deepest part of the channel), after which a course East by
South for a short distance takes a vessel to her anchorage.

There is a detached hill to the East of Quantow Head, 130 feet high,
known as Tikok Hill. When this hill bears S.W., and the northern end of
the fishing-stakes bears W. ^ N., good anchorage will be found in 4J fathoms
at low water.

The tides at Pakhoi are not regular. There is as a rule only one tide in
the 24 hours, which varies in its rise and fall from 8 ft. to 17 ft.

The soundings from Haik'ao to Pakhoi are regular, and by attention to
the lead notice of approach to land will be given in ample time to avoid
accident.

CAPE CAMI, the N.W. entrance point of Hainan Strait, is a low sandy-
point backed by sand hills with patches of scrub. Hoosheah Hill, at 25
miles from the cape, will be easily recognised from its isolated position.
Black rocks extend from the cape for some distance. Strong tide ripples
and patches of discoloured water are met with in this vicinity.

The spit of shoal water is reported to extend off the cape in a south-
westerly direction for a distance of 2 miles; but there appears to be no danger
off the point, outside of the sand-spit. Good shelter from N.W. winds may
be found in 7 fathoms, sand and mud, with Cape Cami bearing N.W. ^ W.
distant about 4 miles.

About 12 miles West of Cape Cami there is a sand-bank, upon which as
little as 3^ fathoms are said to exist, it is apparently a ridge extending North
and South for several miles with 1 3 fathoms on each side of it.

A shoal of 6 fathoms is reported 8 miles W.S.W. from the cape ; of 7 to 9
fathoms distant, 15 miles iu a W.N.W. direction; and 26 miles W. f S.
from the cape, is an extensive sand-bank with depths of 5 to 6 fathoms.

Haian Bay, 15 miles eastward of Cape Cami, may be easily recognised by
a white fort (96 ft. above high water), erected on the West entrance point,
opposite the village of Haian. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms, IJ mile Suuth
of this fort, whence the water shoals rapidly to the shore. Sheumen Pagoda,
another conspicuous land-mark, lies N.W. from Haian Fort, distant about

HAINAN ISLAND. 471

5^ miles. The anchorage is protected from all -winds from East round
through North to West ; the bottom is mud, and affords good holding ground.
The greater part of the sugar exported from Hoihow is brought over in
junks from Haian.

Haksha Village is situated at the head of a white sandy bay, about 2 miles
East of Hian : there is anchorage for junks about a quarter of a mile from
the village. Numerous fishing-stakes extend off the East point of Haiau
Bay, and a reef of rocks stretches off the same point, in a south-easterly
direction, for some distance.

4.— HAINAN ISLAND.

Hainan Island, bounding the Gulf of Tong King to the eastward, is about
155 miles in extent, N E. and S. W., and about 90 miles in breadth. It is
in most parts very high uneven land when viewed from seaward, but in the
interior there are many level districts, cultivated with rice, sugar-cane, areka
or betel-nut trees, and tobacco. These cultivated plains are separated from
each other by lofty mountains, covered with impenetrable forests, through
which the natives have cut narrow passes in the most accessible parts, to
enable them to go from one district to the other. The island forms part of
the province of Quang-tong, and is subject to the Chinese, who hold all the
places of profit or of consequence, keeping the inoffensive aborigines in a
state of abject poverty. Kien-chew or Kiung-chau, the capital of Hainan,
is situated at the North side of the island and a few miles from it Hoi-
How, a treaty port, stands on the banks of a river on the North coast of the
island.

The N.W. coast of this island is little known to Europeans.

The South and S.E. coasts* are bold to approach, with soundings gene-
rally from 25 to 35 fathoms very near or close to the headlands, deepening
to 65 or 70 fathoms about 15 miles off; and in some places these soundings
extend 18 or 20 miles off shore.

The S.E. coast is indented with several fine bays, affording good an-
chorage and shelter from the N.E. monsoon. Each of these bays may be
considered a safe harbour during that monsoon, but they are partly open to
southerly winds.

* The survey of the S.E. coast of Hainan was made by Captain Daniel Boss, I.N., on
Loard the surveying ships Discovery and Investigator, in 1817. It commenced at Gaalong
aud Yulinkan Bays, where base lines were measured on the shore ; after which a chain of
triangles was carried on from the East Brother Island to False Tinhosa Island, and in that
space three spaces were measured by sound, and every care taken to render the survey cor-
rect. The other coasts of the island are incorrectly delineated, and not to be relied on.

472 HAINAN ISLAND.

Winds. — Typhoons or hurricanes, as some writers term fhem, have been
singularly destructive in Hainan. As at Hongkong, they usually take place
between June and October, August and September being the worst months.
The Chinese state that the more violent ones give ample notice of their ap-
proach, generally occurring every two or three years, though twelve months
never elapse without a typhoon visiting the coast. No very heavy storm,
however, appears to have happened for about five years (1876), though one of
moderate force destroyed a good deal of property last autumn. K'iung-chow
is said to have been three times entirely destroyed by typhoons within his-
toric times. The extremely violent typhoons are locally known as Chii-funffy
the ordinary ones being called Pao-fung.

The average temperature of Northern Hainan is slightly above that of
Hongkong, but the climate is very damp, fogs continuously prevailing for
long periods. Hr. Taintor describes the spring as dry, but rain fell fre-
quently during my stay of nearly three weeks. The monsoons blow as at
Hongkong, viz., the S.W. from April to October, and the N.E. from October
to April. Their force is, however, very irregular on the North coast.

Banks at the Eastern Entrance to Hainan Strait. — In the vicinity of
Hainan Head there are several dangerous sand-banks, upon which the sea
sometimes breaks. There are deep-water channels between them, which,
when properly surveyed and defined, may be used by vessels proceeding to
the eastward, but an attempt to pass between the banks must always be
attended by uncertainty and risk, owing to the strong currents which prevail
in this neighbourhood, and the distance of the sand-banks from the land.
No reliable directions for the passage in or out can be laid down until the
locality is better known. In the directions hereafter given for approaching
Hoi-how, some remarks are made on the passage through these banks.

HAINAN HEAD, the N.E. point of Hainan is low and rocky, termi-
nating in a reef, awash at high water, extending North half a mile from the
shore. The mound, usually called Hainan Head, lies about three-quarters
of a mile S.W. f W. from the N.E. point, and when bearing S.W. by S., 5
or 6 miles distant, appears as a flat- topped mound about 180 ft. high, be-
tween which and Mount Mofou the land is low. Some black rocks above
water extend off the mound to the N.E., and at a distance of 3 or 4 miles
there are breakers.

Mount Mofou, S. 41° E., 20 miles from Hainan Head, appears at a distance
as an island, and has sometimes been mistaken for one of the Taya Islands,
which are, however, much smaller. It is high, with a cleft in its centre, and
rises to a height of 800 to 1,000 ft.

The coast West of Hainan Head recedes a few miles, and then trends
West for about 5 miles, terminating in a sandy point (Poochin Point), from
which it trends South, towards Poochin Lagoon.

Poochin Pagoda, a round whitewashed building with red top, 488 ft. above

HOI-HOW BAY. 41 i

the sea, stands on the highest of the sand-hills, 6 miles W.S.W. from
Hainan Head. Poochin Lagoon is used by small vessels, able to cross tjie
bar, of 7 or 8 ft. A patch of rocks, dry at half-tide, lies half a mile West of
Poochin I'oint, and there are numerous fishing stakes hereabout which re-
quire caution,

A shoal, on which the water is said to break, is reported to lieN.W. byW.
from Poochin Pagoda, about 3 miles off shore. This shoal is said to extend
8 miles in an East and West direction.

The coast from Poochin Point to the entrance of the lagoon is faced with
rocky patches, and must be approached with caution. There is said to be a
well-sheltered and safe anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, in 4 fathoms, about
half a mile S. W. from the point. The coast from the entrance of Poochin
Lagoon to Hoi-how Point is low, with no conspicuous objects for the first few
miles ; it forms a deep bay, which is reported by the native fishermen to
have several shoal patches. Kien-Chew-Fou pagoda forms a good landmark,
but is hidden behind trees when bearing to the westward of South. There
appeared to be a junk harbour with Kien-chew pagoda bearing South.

Hoi-How or Backsha Point lies AVest 17 miles from Poochin Pagoda.
It is low and sandy, with fishing stakes extending off 2 miles N.N.W. from
it. A village lies 2 miles inland. Hoi-how Bay is included between Back-
sha Point and Inner Point, 9 miles westward of it. Hoi-how is situated at
its S.E. corner, between which and Backsha Point are numerous sand and
mud banks extending off shore to a distance of 2 miles.

HOI-HOW BAY. — The following is chiefly derived from the pamphlet
mentioned on page 462, which is illustrated with plans, and would be of
much use to vessels visiting this port, especially as so little is now known of
the coast.

Hoi-How, or irai-lc'ow,'^ may be considered at present as the port to
K^ung-chow, or Kien Cheiv, which is. however, only important as the seat of
government, and is situated upon the river, 14 li or nearly 4 English miles
S.E. of it. There is, however, no water communication between the places
for anything larger than a canoe, and an amusing method is adopted for the
carriage of passengers and goods between the two places. Mr. Dennys says :
" The means of transit, irrespective of walking, are threefold — by pony,
wheelbarrow, or chair. Very few riders are seen, and the wheelbarrow
(which is also largely employed for goods) seems to be the popular vehicle.
It is ridden astride by both men and women, the feet being placed in
stirrups on either side of the wheel. The whole machine is of the clumsiest

• Captain J. S. .Cocker, of tlie Chinese gun-boat Feihoo, says that the name Hoi-how,
commonly used by foreigners in China, is unknown in Hainan, where the name Haik'ao or
Saik'ow is used.

1. 1.. 3 P

474 HAINAN ISLAND.

description. The chairs are remarkably light and small, being anything but
comfortable."

Uoi-how lies upon the shores of a shallow bay and still shallower creek or
river (it being the former at low water, though it forms a branch mouth to
the main river at high tide), both presenting great impediments to easy
trade, its appearance is more thriving than one would expect. The principal
industries, visible to the casual stranger, are rope-making, dyeing, junk-
building, basket-making, «S:c., with, of course, numerous rice mills, small
silversmith's shops, vermicelli and beancake shops, &c., such as may be seen
in any Chinese town. The population of Hoi-how numbers about 12,000.

Si(2)plies are plentiful and prices moderate. Water is brought off in water
boats, but it is unfit for drinking or cooking purposes, being muddy and
brackish. A large trade in sugar, ground nut cake, bean cake, also oil,
coins, and Chinese articles is carried on by junks, between Hoi-how, Swatow,
Macao, and other northern ports.

There is a British Consulate and a Custom-house. The former stands
about a quarter of a mile S.E. of the southern fort at the mouth of the Hoi-
how River, and at high water is practically isolated from the surrounding
neighbourhood. The building allotted to the staff of the Marine Customs,
which is only accessible to cargo-boats at high water, lies East of the British
Consulate, and not far from the edge of the western suburb. A foreign
settlement may be formed.

The coinage, &e., is described in the Appendix at the end of this volume.

The Anchorage of Hoi-how is essentially shallow, consisting of a sandy and
mud-bottomed bay, slightly protected on its N.E. side by sand-spits, but
considerably exposed to all winds, except those blowing from the southward.
At a radius of about 3 miles from the mouth of the creek upon which Hoi-
how is situated, there is a depth of from 5 to 6 fathoms, but this position is
entirely open ; and this depth rapidly decreases, so that from 10 to 12 feet
only are found at low water when about 2 miles distant from the same point.
Vessels drawing 15 ft. of water cannot safely anchor under 2^ miles from the
shore. "E-M..^. Ugeria, drawing 14 ft., was anchored at this distance. The
Ling-Feng and Sun- Chi, drawing 8 feet 6 inches and 9 feet respectively, were
anchored at a similar distance from the forts, but nearer to the South shore
of the bay ; nor did soundings taken justify their moving farther in. A
glance at the chart, however, will, better than any description, give a clear
idea of the anchorage.

Tides. — According to a note upon the survey of Hoi-how anchorage made
by Mr. Henderson (Chief Engineer of the Lighthouse Department), and the
Captain of the Fei-hoo, the tides are very irregular, they themselves observ-
ing only one high and one low water a day.

The range of tide is 7 ft. The flood sets into the straits from the eastward,
and into the bay from the N.E.

HOI-HOW. 475

At Hoi-how, during 37 days in May and June, 1876, when the tides were
observed by H.M.S. Egeria, the greatest range was found to be llA ft., the
least 2 ft. At the period of the highest tides, which apparently follow the
moon's extreme declination, there is only one flood and one ebb in the 24
hours, the flood making for about 16 hours, the ebb about 8 hours ; velocity,
1 J or 2 knots an hour. In like manner, the tidal stream through Hainan
Strait was observed to set to the westward for 16 hours, to the eastward for
about 8 hours ; greatest strength 2 to 3 knots an hour. On the Hainan
shore the stream is said to turn an hour earlier than in the offing.

Approaching Hoi-how from Hongkong. — Two routes from Hongkong to Hoi-
how are open to vessels ; one known as the " inshore," and the other as the
" direct" route. The dangers of the inshore route (owing to defective sur-
veys) are somewhat great. The difficulties of the navigation from Now-
chow to Hoi-how can scarcely be exaggerated. A vessel missing the tide,
owing to fog or other causes, is detained for the day, the southern portion of
the anchorage being crossed by a sand-bar, which, at high water, has a little
under 3 fathoms on its deepest part. Vessels drawing 16 ft. of water connot
eafely attempt it, even in smooth weather. H.M.S. Egeria, drawing 14 feet
6 inches, nearly touched on crossing it, in company with the S.S. Anlan,
when conveying H.B.M. Yice-Consul to Hoi-how — there being then a very
heavy sea on. After passing the bar, shoals and rocks, some awash and
almost all marked by breakers, abound on either hand, until the extremity
of the Lien-chow peninsula has been cleared.

Pilots. — Now-chow furnishes an ample supply of more or less competent
pilots for the inshore route, some nine boarding the Ling-Feng on her enter-
ing the anchorage, all of whom possessed certificates from masters of vessels.

The Direct Route, or that through the banks lying N.E. of Hainan Head,
has been several times successfully used. The shoals may be identified by
the dark yellow water on them, and by the heavy breakers which exist, even
in flue weather. The channels between are 4 or 5 miles wide, and have
deep water of a light green tint ; there is probably a depth of 5 to 12 fa-
thoms. The tides are strong, and heavy overfalls exist in the vicinity of
Hainan Head.

The following directions by Captain Cocker, of the Chinese cruiser Ling
Feng, should be used with caution, until the locality is better known : —
Vessels from the eastward should endeavour to make Hainan Head, bearing
S.W. by "VV. ^ W. and keeping it on that bearing, approach within 6 miles;
then steering to the north-westward pass 4 miles North of Hainan Head.
Bring Poo-chin pagoda to bear S. 40° W-, well open of Hainan Head, and
pass 3 miles North of the pagoda, then haul out to pass 8 miles North of the
low sandy coast which lies between Poo-chin pagoda and Hoi-how, until the
Hummocks (p. 476) bear S.S.W., when the vessel may steer to pass outside
the fishing stakes and thence for Hoi-how Bay.

47r, HAINAN ISLAND.

H.M.S. Lily, in 1876, found a clear channel to Hoi-how, from a position
about 7 miles North of the Taya Islands, passing about 4 miles northward
of Mo-fou Point, and rounding the reef, stretching off the N.E. point of
Hainan, at a distance of a quarter of a mile.

Mr. Anderson, master, S.S. Conquest, 1876, reports the existence of a good
channel, free from danger. He recommends, when leaving Hoi-how, to
bring the sand spit off Baksha Point to bear South, and from thence an
E. by N. i N. course, leads between the shoals in about 12 fathoms water.

The Coast.— As before stated, the North, West, and East coasts of Hainan
are but little known to Europeans. The following brief description of the
North coast is by Lieut. W. H. Stephens, R.N., of H.M.S. Egeria, 1876, and
of the West coast by Lieut. H. C. St. John, R.N., who carried a line of
soundings along it in H.M. gun-boat Opossum in 1865.

Jinmee Point, as before remarked, forms the western point of Hoi-how
Bay. It is composed of barren sand-hills, the point being made remarkable
by a cone-shaped mound, situated half a mile from the beach, and by a
Tillage on its western side.

About 6 or 7 miles inland a range of hills rises gradually from the east-
ward, and terminates to the westward, in two extinct craters, named the
Smnmocks, whicH bear S.W. by S. from the end of Backsha Sand Spits and
S. by E. \ E. from Jinmee Point. They are visible about 25 miles distant,
and form a conspicuous mark. Numerous fishing stakes extend from Jin-
mee Point for a distance of about a mile.

Between Jinmee Point and Sad Point, 15 miles westward from it is a
shallow bay, bounded by low land, which, however, rises in its western part
and at Sad Point, cliffs of a dark red colour, and 80 ft. high, are formed. A
detached piece lying N.E. of the point is very conspicuous in approach-
from the westward. West of Sad Point is Manu Barbour, on the western
Bide of which the coast is again low, and at a distance of 8 miles inland rises
the gently sloping mound called Laam Koo Hill. It is in lat. 19° 55' N.,
long. 1 09° 39' E. A reef extends half a mile off the western entrance point
of Manu Harbour.

Pingmar, or Double Sill, about 40 miles S.W. of Manu Harbour, is con-
spicuous from all directions ; it rises abruptly from low land, and forms a
double-headed hill distinctly separate on N.E. and S.W. bearings, but makes
like a round-topped single mount when bearing about S.8.E. 25 or 30 miles
distant. Between Laamkoo Hill and Pingmar the land appeared low,
forming How-sui Bay ; about halfway between the two hills, and some
distance inland, is a round-topped, isolated, conspicuous hill, named by the
pilots Koong-chin, and the volcanic mountains before mentioned are some-
times visible beyond.

The N.W. coast of Hainan, from Hoi-how to How-sui, a distance of 45
miles, is flat and uneven, and the country appeared cultivated with sugar-

YAIT-CHEW BAY. 477

cane. At How-sui hills first begin to appear. A small vessel could anchor
under the diifferent points of land, but there is no good anchorage.

Off How-sui there is an island of sand {Stumba in Chinese), which is the
only island between Hoi-how and Yait-chew.

Pingmar, on Double-hill Point, forms the western point of How-sui Bay.
About a mile from it there is the remarkable double-coned hill, which has the
same double appearance when approaching from North or South.

Pillar Point, 8 miles S.W. of Double Hill Point, is very remarkable,
having a peculiar pillar rock on it, and a small mandarin hat-shaped islet
joined to it at low water. Flat Point, 14 miles S.W. of Pillar Point, is
remarkable. There is deep water close off it. Between Pillar Point and
Flat Point is Chappoo Bay, in which is a good anchorage at Heong-po.
Sandbanks lie in the mouth of the bay, as shown by the chart.

At 7 miles westward of Flat Point is the entrance to Hoita Uarlour, a reef
of rocks lying off shore between, covered at low water. Two small conical
hills lie at the back of Hoita.

Bluff Boint, 21 miles S.W. of Flat Point, is rocky, about 300 ft. hip'h, with
anchorage on its South side. From here sandbanks and shoals begin to
appear, and continue as far as the S.W. point of Hainan. The Opouum
passed inside of them. They appeared to extend some 10 miles to seaward,
and are invisible from the shore. Pyramid Point is very remarkable, having
a pyramidal rock shooting out of a low, flat, sandy point. North of it is
Back-li Bay, so named from a village about 2 miles inland from its head ; it
lies to the North of Pyramid Point. The anchorage is off the village, but
there is a small reef near it (which breaks only at low water), which must
be avoided.

From Back-li Bay the Bouncer passed about 3 miles from Pyramid Point,
and steering 6 miles off the land kept outside all the sands.

Snake Point, in lat 18° 24' N., long. 108° 54' E., forms the West entrance
point of Yait-chew Baj-, and terminates in two sandy hummocks about 100
feet high, lying N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. from each other. Mud Island
lies South from Snake Point, distant about I5 mile. Button Island lies
W. ^ S., distant 1 mile from Mud Island. There is said to be no safe
channel either between these islands, or between them and Snake Point.
Maddock Pock, which covers at half tide, lies north-westward of the Button,
at the distance of about I5 mile.

Yait-chew Bay affords good anchorage during the N.E. monsoon in 3 J
fathoms, about 2 miles from the beach at the head, from which to the shore
the water shoals very gradually. A good position for anchoring is with
Yait-chew Fort bearing N.N.E., and Mud Island in line with Button Island,
bearing W. j S.

Great Cape, at the eastern entrance to Yat-chew Bay, may be recognised
by a hill surmounted by a pagoda, which lies about 4 miles E.N.E. from it.

478 HAINAN ISLAND.

S.W. 3 to 4 miles from Great Cape is a dangerous sunken rock. Toucon
Motmtain, 1,200 ft. above high water, is rugged, with several peaks.

Sama, Sanghia or Samoy Bay, 25 or 26 miles eastward from Yait-chew
Bay, has several rocks and islets in it, with anchorage inside for small vessels.

Yulinkan Bay is separated from Sama Bay by a long narrow strip of land,
which terminates in Soloman Point, and between it and Paumel or Tomb
Point is the entrance, 3 miles wide. About a mile to the northward of
Paumel Point, and near the eastern shore of the bay is a small island named
Zonhj. The usual anchorage is in 9 or 13 fathoms, on a mud and sand bot-
tom, about three-quarters of a mile north-westward of Zonby, sheltered in
every direction, except between South and W.S.W. Several ships, driven
from the coast of China by typhoons at the beginning of the N.E. monsoon,
have been known to take shelter here until the monsoon was over. The bay
cannot be a safe anchorage in the S.W. monsoon.

Good fresh water is to be procured close to the beach in a small bay on the
East side of Yulinkan Bay, and the natives are ready and willing to assist in
procuring both wood and water.

A dangerous sunken rock lies S.W. from 3 to 4 miles from Great Cape,
but the sea breaks over it if there is any swell on.

To the north-westward of the anchorage in the bay is a good channel
leading into the creek or inner harbour, which is said to be the resort of
pirates. The inner harbour is surrounded by hills, and forms the outlet of
a fine river which falls into its N.E. part.

Directions. — A ship may warp in if the weather is fine ; or if with a
southerly or easterly wind she may sail in, by keeping nearest to the eastern
shore until nearly abreast Eocky Point, then steer over for Sandy Point, and
round it at a short distance. The best time to enter is at low water, the
dangers being then more conspicuous, and 5 or 5^ fathoms will be the
smallest depth in the fair channel. Having rounded Sandy Point, and shut
it in with the land on the East side of the outer bay, anchor in 5^ or 6 fa-
thoms, within a Kttle less than half a mile of the shore near Sandy Point.

It is high water, full and change, in Yulinkan Bay at Q*" 45", rise about
2i ft. There is one tide in 24 hours during springs, two during neaps.

CAPE BASTION, the South extreme of Hainan, is in lat. 18^ 9 J' N., long.
109° 33^ E. It is the South point of a high peninsula, 4 miles broad, bold,
of rocky appearance, and visible 25 or 26 miles ofi" in clear weather.

GAALONG BAY. — At 2J miles eastward of Cape Bastion is a black rocky
point, named Cape Rhinoceros, forming the West extreme of Gaalong Bay,
which is about 5 miles wide, and 3 miles deep. In the eastern part of the
entrance are two round islands, called the Brothers, and one called St. Peter,
or Middle Island, near the middle of the northern part of the bay ; in the
N.W. part there are some rocks above and under water, and the bottom
along the western side the bay is generally foul.

LEONG-SOY BAY— TIEN-FUNG. 479

The usual anchorage for ships is between Middle Island and the eastern
shore of the bay, in 8 fathoms water, over sand and mud. The Discovery
anchored with the East Brother S.S.E. ^ E., the West Brother S. I W.
nearly, and the two extremes of the bay S.E. \ S. and S.W. ^ W., distant
about three-quarters of a mile off the eastern shore. In this position much
swell was experienced with a S.E. wind, from which it would appear to be a
very unpleasant anchorage during the S.W. monsoon.

Water. — Northward from the usual anchorage there is a white sandy
beach, and a rocky part of the shore separates it from the small bay to the
eastward. On the N."W. side of these rocks fresh water can be procured
from a small run, that terminates in a pool close to the beach. The tide
rises here about 4 or 5 ft.

Directions.— Th.e depth of water close outside the Brothers varies from 25
to 21 fathoms, and within them from 15 to 12 fathoms, decreasing gradually
to 6 or 8 at the anchorage. With a leading wind the bay may be entered
by one of the three channels ; that between the East Brother and eastern
shore has from 15 to 18 fathoms, coarse sandy bottom ; but as a reef pro-
jects from the N.E. end of the Brother, it will be prudent to keep in mid-
channel, or rather nearest to the main. The channel between the Brothers
is safe, but the western channel is the most convenient with a •working wind,
being nearly 3 miles wide.

LEONG-SOY BAY.— Leong-soy Point, bearing N.E. by E. \ E. 23i miles
from the East Brother, is formed by several high hummocks, having a sandy
plain to the northward, and when seen at 16 or 17 miles distance, it appears
like an island. At 2 miles westward of Leong-soy is another conspicuous
point, with a hill of a sugarloaf shape ; and about 2 miles farther to the
N.W. are several dry rocks, steep-to, which extend three-quarters of a mile
from another point. At 1^ mile N. by W. of this latter point is a narrow
and very shoal passage, which leads between two sandy points into an ex-
tensive salt-water lake. The anchorage off the bar is much exposed ; the
city is 7 miles from the anchorage. Farther to the westward is another
considerable town, named Tong-kin.

TIEN-FTJNG, or Sail FlocJc, in lat. 18° 26f N., long. 110= 7' E., and bear-
ing N.E. .by E. from Leong-soy Point, is one of a cluster of large rocks
above water, which, from its being higher and whiter than the others, has
acquired the name of Sail Pock.

The Coast between Leong-soy Point and Tinhosa Island, about 29 miles
to the N.E., forms a large bay, in which may be seen many sandy beaches
and very high land near the shores, but it affords no safe anchorage during
tlie southerly monsoon. On the eastern shore of the bay stands the town of
Munchow ; and in the vicinity of the coast, near the middle part of the bay
are three prominent peaks of an elevated range of mountains, the centre one
being the most pointed, and a little higher than the others j this lies near

4S0 HAINAN ISLAND.

the sea and, at a considerable distance, is sometimes mistaken for Tinhosa
Island. Capt. Eoss made it in lat. 18^ 38' N., long. 110° 7' 15" E., which is
about 2 miles inshore, and may be seen 35 or 40 miles off; when it bears
W. by N. J N. it is over Saddle Island. Farther inland, in about lat. 18"
56' N. there is another mountain of similar appearance to the former, but
more elevated. It was seen bearing W.S.W. nearly 90 miles distant, then
forming in three peaks or sugar-loaves.

TINHOSA ISLAND is 2J miles in extent, in a North and South direction,
and is formed by two high hills, united by a narrow sandy isthmus, which
covers at high-water spring tides. The southern hill, the highest, is 600 ft.
high, and its summit is in lat. 18° 39' 45" N., long. 110° 27' E., determined
by angles irom the East Brother. The island is just discernible, from the
poop of a large ship, at a distance of 33 miles.

False Tinhosa, in lat. 11° 49' N., long. 110° 32' E., and 9 miles N.E. from
Tinhosa, is an island of small extent and middling height, and when viewed
from the southward has a rock like a pillar at its eastern extremity. The
island may be seen, in clear weather, from a distance of 23 or 24 miles.* A
pagoda stands about 24 miles North of False Tinhosa Island.

The Coast from False Point, abreast of False Tinhosa, extends N. by E.
and N.N.E. about 54 miles, to a point under which is shelter in the N.E.
monsoon, and close to which, in about lat. 19° 37' N., long. 111° 5' E., is a
high mountain named Tongeon by the Chinese, which may be seen 40 or 45
miles off; and from there being no other high land in its vicinity, may be
taken for an island. The point on which the mountain stands is in lat. 19°
37' N., long. 111° 7 J' E., and the depth of water was from 18 to 20 fathoms
about 2J miles off it.

Chun-Ian, in lat. 19° 29' N., is reported to be a good harbour for vessels
that can cross the bar. Wood, water, and provisions can be obtained.

The Hainan shore to the northward of Tongeon Point is very low and
sandy, without cultivation. To the northward of this low land the coast
becomes again high, and safe to approach ; the high land j)rojects a little to
the eastward, and from lat. 19° 43' N. stretches northward, forming Hainan
Head, the N.E. extremity of the island, in lat. 20° 0' N., long. 110° 54' E.

The TAYA ISLANDS, separated from the high land of Hainan Head by
a safe channel about 12 miles wide, consist of two groups of high barren
islands, sis or seven in number, with some rocks, which may be seen about
12 or 15 miles off. The pilots say there is a safe passage 3 miles wide
between the two groups. They extend N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. about
15 miles, the northernmost island being in lat. 20° 2' N., long. 111°22'E.
The southernmost island, in lat. 19° 52' N., long. 111° 12j' E., seems one
of the largest, and from it a high sand-bank stretches to the N.N.E., hav-
ing regular soundings, 20 and 21 fathoms about 3 miles from it on the
East side.

( 480fl )

CHAPTER XII.

NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

TANJONG API is a low spit, forming the north-western extremity of
Borneo. It has been referred to on page 287 ante, and the coast of Borneo
to the southward of it has been there described. The term Api, fire is ap-
plied to this point, owing to its having been the principal pirate rendezvous,*
where the visitors, upon going away, were accustomed to leave a log burning
near the stream for signal to their friends. f

The point may be distinguished from the northward or southward, if
showing in profile, by its abrupt termination formed by the stems of large
trees, differing from mangrove, as well as by a small hummock within. The
beach, also, is remarkable, being composed of very white sand, studded with
black basaltic rocks, which project to seaward, showing reefs.

There is an extensive off'-lying reef filled in by a sand-bank, which en-
circles the point, leaving an entrance to the northward. The soundings
decrease rapidly from 12, 7, to 2 fathoms. Good anchorage may be found
in 14 fathoms W N. W. of Api Eock.

Poon, palo-maria, and woods resembling cedar and ebony, adapted for
spars and boat planks, were obtained here.

The entire range of Datu, presenting a detached mass, clear of the in-

* The active operations undertaken and steadilj' pursued in the four years, 1843
to 1846, had thoroughly destroyed all the pirate holds whence fleets of rovers had so
long spread terror on the coasts of Borneo and many other countries, and the moral in-
fluence and example of regular government supplied by the colony of Labuan and the
Eajahship of Sarawak have completed what was then so well begun, and although on rare
occasions acts of violence are still committed, no professional pirate fleet or vessel has
sailed along the coast for many years. Shipwrecked crews are treated with kindness, and
the smallest trading prahus traverse in safety a coast line extending over more than 700
miles. — Official Report, 1875.

t The general observations on the coasts of Borneo are chiefly by Captain Sir Edward
Belcher, C.B.

Mr. Logan, commanding the Rob Roy, bound from Labuan to Singapore, reported having
Been oS" Tanjong Api, the wreck of a vessel ashore on a reef, lying with Marundum Island
bearing X.E. | X., Haycock Island N. by W. \ W., and St. Pierre Island W. \ S.

There is good reason to conclude that Sir. Logan was mistaken in supposing the wreck to
be on a reef, as it was fallen in with afterwards by other vessels, drifting about, and ultimately
went on shore a short distance southward of Api Point, where she was visited by the autho-
rities of Sarawak. This danger is now removed from the charts.
Insertion.

4803 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

termediate mangroves, will lead to the northward of the dangers near Api
Point.

Water. — As this is the only spot where good water can be conveniently
obtained in this neighbourhood, it will be necessary to follow these very
precise instructions for landing and procuring it with safety.

Tanjong Api is a low, rocky formation, on which the sea forces up the
sand by its great exposure to westerly swells, and closes the mouth of a small
river which would otherwise flow to the sea. The main stream, thus dammed
up by the sand, forms a deep dark-coloured pool of a reddish tint. But na-
ture has again, with a view to purify her supply of this invaluable article,
interposed a reservoir, by forming a small strip or pond, running parallel to
the beach, and containing about 100 tons of pure water, which is filtered
through the barrier of sand, and thus furnishes to the passing traveller this
inestimable gift.

Between the rocks there is a safe admission tot boats, but due caution
is necessary.

The best landing will be found 60 yards to the southward of the great
rock on the North, where the beach is clear. Immediately within the beach
line will be found the pond before alluded to, into which the engine suction
hose may be placed. This supply is of such importance to mankind at large
that parties visiting Tanjong Api should be warned from trying any wanton
experiments, such as cutting a channel to the sea, by which it might be de-
stroyed.

Tides. — The tide at Tanjong Api was found to rise about 7 ft., the direc-
tion of the flood, in 15 fathoms at 2 miles ofi" shore, being E.N.E., and of
the ebb S.S.W.

From a position off Tanjong Api to a similar position off Tanjong Datu,
the course is E.N.E., and the distance 22J miles. The dangers within the
line between these points have not been satisfactorily examined, and there
is some reason to apprehened, from the sudden changes in the soundings,
attended with suspicious eddies, that undiscovered rocks lie near the surface.

TANJONG DATIT. — Great caution should be observed in approaching
this point. The tides are rapid, and the reef which encircles it, at a radius
of 2 miles, is studded with rocks, several of which are freqiiently awash.

There is no inducement of any kind to bring a vessel within 3 miles,
therefore no excuse for risking its dangers within a depth of 19 fathoms,
where a vessel may securely anchor to await the change of tide.

The entire western coast of this mountainous range is studded with rocks,
and the landing is difficult and dangerous. On the eastern side the coast
runs suddenly to the southward steep-to, and offers two sandy bays. A coral
bank, with detached rocks, being a continuation from the point, extends
about 3 miles to the southward, but there is deep water within.

Tides— The flood stream off shore sets East, the ebb nearly West ; rate
2 to 2i knots.

NIGER BANK— TANJONG SIPANG. 4S0c

NIGER BANK, discovered in 1858 byH.M.S. liiffer, and surveyed in 1862
by H.M.S. Rifleman, is composed of hard clay, 4i miles long East and "West,
and 1^ mile broad. The outer edge of the centre part of the band is about
North, distant 5 miles from Tanjong Datu. The bank has 5 to 9 fathoms
on it, and is very convenient to anchor upon to await tide j the 5-fathom
spots are towards the East and S.E. ends.

Caution- — In the event of detached boats, or a very small vessel, seeking
shelter, it may be found at 7 miles southward of Tanjong Datu, in Sleepy
Bay (Pirate Bay), but caution is necessary, as rocks near the surface are
abundant. Fresh water was not found. The whole space included between
a line from Tanjong Datu to Talan Island is very dangerous.

The Coast. — E.S.E. 43 miles from Tanjong Datu is Tanjong Sipang, at the
extremity of a high peninsula, the coast between forming an extensive bay,
within which are the rivers Siru, Samatan, and Lundu ; Sampadien and some
minor estuaries also discharge their waters, and in the eastern extreme of
the bay the Sarawak presents its western embouchure. There are several
small islands, the entire spaces between which are safe up to 6 fathoms, but
within that depth great caution is necessary.

The Talan or Turtle Islands lie S.E. by S. 13 miles from Tanjong Datu,
and deserve notice as affording a rendezvous or shelter under their lee for
boats. The northern island is remarkable for the resort of turtle to a small
sandy delta on its southern side. Turtle Rock, lying S.S.W. about three-
quarters of a mile from Little Talan Island, is uncovered at low water, and
dangerous by night.

TANJONG SIPANG may always be distinguished from the eastward or
westward by two remarkable thumbs or sugarloaf cones, which show out
clear next its northern extremity. The southern crest of the range {Santu-
long Peak) 2,712 ft. above the level of the sea, can be seen clearly at a dis-
tance of 40 miles.

Samarang or Cruizer Rock, with a 3i-fathom patch about a quarter
of a mile S.W. of it, lies 3 miles North of Tanjong Sipang, and covers
at half ebb. It is surrounded by deep water, having 6 or 7 fathoms
close to, and is difficult to find. Mantang Peak in line with the western side
of Tanjong Sipang, clears it on the East, and the eastern points of Tanjong
Sipang in line clears it on the West ; the thumb of the point end on leads on
it. Probably it is a continuation of the range, this being another outlying
sugarloaf.

Sailing vessels navigating this coast must always be prepared to drop a
light anchor should calm attend an opposing tide, and particularly between
Tanjong Api and Tanjong Sirik. In the depth of 14 fathoms no danger
may be apprehended. The flood does not run more than four hours, and
the strength of the ebb prevails eight ; and where calms are frequent, and
steam is not available, no advance can be made without great attention to
this subject.

480^ NORTH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

The Santubong Entrance to the Sarawak Eiver was surveyed by Sir
Edward Belcher in 1844.

Navigating-Lieutenant H.V. Russell, of H.M.S. Reynard, in 1863, remarks
"■ that the Santubong entrance is not navigable in the N.E. monsoon ; even
the small trading steamer uses the Moratabas entrance when going to Singa-
pore during this season. But at any time the Moratabas is the best chan-
nel for a stranger to take. Pilots are not to be found at the mouths of the
river, but by sending to the Rajah of Sarawak the assistance of the Euro-
peans in charge of the gun boats may be obtained."

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Santubong entrance, at
4'', springs rise 10 ft., neaps 6 ft. ; at the Sarawak junction at 5'', at Sara-
wak city at S*" 20"", and springs rise 15 to 18 ft., neaps 9 ft. ; and at the
Moratabas entrance at 4**, springs rise 9 ft., neaps 5 J ft.

Lieut. Russell remarks that the highest tides occur at the change of the
monsoons, viz., March, April, and November. In the N.E. monsoon the
new moon gives the highest tide, and those of the day are more regular, and
exceed in height those of the night ; while during the S.W. monsoon the
contrary takes place, and the higher tides are then at full moon.

Directions. — Making the land from the N.W. or N.E., the position, as
regards the two entrances to the Sarawak, may immediately be determined
by the inland or coast ranges in connection. Thus Matang Peak, seen clear
to the westward of Santubong crest can leave no doubt as to the lead to the
western mouth. The thumbs will also show on the left of the profile of
Sipang. Another feature is exhibited, which is not visible farther to the
eastward ; this is the topsail-shaped detached elevation on the right of
Matang.

Approaching from the N.E., Matang, seen eastward of Santubong Peak,
will afford a satisfactory guide either for Tanjong Sipang, or for finding
Tanjong Po, the mark for the Moratabas entrance to the Sarawak, for which
latter it is unerring, bearing S.W. by W. ^ W. from a distance.

Matang, when seen to the eastward of Santubong, shields Topsail Peak
from view, and the very steep character of Santubong afi'ords on this view a
safe leading mark, even as far as the mouth of the Sarebas River.

To ascend this branch of the Sarawak it will be expedient to obtain a good
local pilot, or to have boats sounding in advance, as well as immediately
under the bowsprit, as there are several dangerous patches of rock, one of
which is in mid-channel. A red huoy, the position of which, however, is not
to be depended on, lies off the entrance of the river N.W. by W. from Mount
Santubong. The channel thence extends about S.S.E 4 J miles to Royalist
Rock beacon, just westward of the entrance point of the river, and on the
South side of the channel. There was but 2f fathoms on the bar at high
water in 1864.

MORATABAS ENTRANCE TO SARAWAK. 481

Moratabas Entrance to Sarawak. — From Tanjong Sipang, Laki, or Peile
Island, lying off the northern extremity of Po Point peninsula, bears E. by
S. i 8. 10^ miles; and this course may be safely steered by day or night, if
the land can be distinguished, hauling northerly if the depth decreases to less
than 5 fathoms ; but in bad weather or fogs a depth of not less than 12
fathoms should be risked.

Po Point lighthouse, of a bright yellow colour, stands on the summit of
the point ; since the year 1873 di fixed bright light has been shown from it,
at an elevation of 490 ft. above the sea, and visible 13 miles oflf. The
river is stated to be huoyed on its left bank from Moratabas Point, fronting
the fishing village, to the village of ISinjinkat.

The entire face of Moratabas sea range to the N.E. is steep-to, and may
safely be approached into 8 fathoms ; and if intending to enter the Morata-
bas Channel, this shore should be hugged, passing within half a mile of a
white rock or islet off Po Point. The Moratabas Channel begins at this
white rock, within half a mile of which is the deep part.

Navigating-Lieutenant Moss, of H.M.S. Scout, in March, 1863, surveyed
the Moratabas entrance, and found that the banks forming the channel had
altered considerably since Sir Edward Belcher's survey, rendering the direc-
tions for navigating it given by that officer no longer applicable. Navigating-
Lieutenant Eussel, of H.M.S. Reynard, shortly afterwards made a track
survey of the river from Moratabas Point to Sarawak, which is sufficient to
enable vessels to proceed up safely. The Rifleman twice entered the river,
and steamed up to Sarawak, guided by these surveys, finding the soundings
correct, and experiencing no difficulty.

The channel of this entrance of the river is bounded on either side by
banks, composed generally of sand, with mud in places. The western bank
takes from Po Point a direction about S. | E. for a distance of nearly 3
miles, when it rounds away S.S.W. | W. for a mile, and then S.W. by W.
for IJ mile, where it forms a slight projection; from thence it trends "West
to Moratabas Point, distant half a mile.

A conical huoy painted red is (or was) placed oflP the spit of the Si Jalore
Shoal, or western bank, in 3| fathoms, low water spring tides. Vessels
should not attempt to pass to the westward of this buoy, but should pass a
quarter of a mile to the eastward of it.

The outer edge of the eastern bank, marked by the 3-fathom line, appears
to lie about N.E. by N., distant 3^ miles from Po Point ; from thence it takes
a southerly direction for 5 miles, and then curves up gradually to Brooke
Point, opposite Moratabas Point. But the outline of the eastern bank is
somewhat irregular, and a detached knoll of sand, with only 14 ft. water
over it, called Scout Shoal, from H.M.S. Scout having touched upon it, lies
with Po Point bearing N.W. by N., and Moratabas Point S.W. southerly.

I. A. 8 Q

482 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

The deepest water over the bar is between this knoll and the western bank,
the distance between them being about a mile. The depths at low water
spring tides are 3 J and 4 fathoms, and the bottom is composed of hard sand.

Otter Rock. — The barque Otter, on her way down from Quop anchorage,
struck and remained some hours on a pinnacle rock, with only 3 ft. on it at
low water springs, and deep water all round. The rock lies nearly in the
middle of the river. If mile within the entrance points, and E.N.E. about 9
cables from the Belcher Eock. The pilots and small steamers navigating
the river always pass to the southward of the rock.

Directions. — Proceeding from abreast Po Point, keep the islet half its
breadth open of the point, and steer S. by E. \ E. until Po Point is distant
about 3 miles, and Mount Santubong (2,712 ft. high), distant 13 miles, bears
W. by N. \ N., and is seen in the centre of a break in the hills. The above
course will leave Scout Shoal, two-thirds of a mile distant, on the port side,
and bring you to a position haK a mile E.N.E. of the red buoy. From this
position steer S.S.W. \ W. towards a clump of trees on the South entrance
point of the river until Tree Point, the first point northward of Moratabas
Point, is in line with the S.W. Sharp Peak, bearing W. by N. ^^ N., when
steer W.S.W. § W. into the river midway between the points. Otter Eock,
within the points, has been above described.

Caution. — With strong northerly winds a heavy swell is experienced when
about halfway between Po Point and Sarawak Eiver entrance. H.M.S.
Juno, drawing 18 ft., slightly touched when in mid-channel at half-tide, with
28 ft. soundings, in February, 1877.

Water.— To the eastward of Peile Island is a water-stained cliff, with a
minute cascade delivering itself most invitingly into the sea. The ascent to
the cliff, about 30 ft. above the sea, is easy. On the summit will be found a
series of natural reservoirs of transparent water.

Vessels drawing more than 15 ft. water, or of greater length than 200 ft.,
cannot go above the Quop without incurring considerable risk ; and almost
every man-of-war that has gone up has met with some accident.

The SARAWAK RIVER.— The delta of this river is formed by the several
streams which have been briefly described. They unite at the Quop, or
Lintang Junction, about 8 or 9 miles above the bar of the Moratabas
entrance. Elaborate directions have been given for their navigation, but as
it is manifest that in addition to the changes which necessarily occur in the
channels, much local knowledge would be required to pass safely up or down,
they are not here repeated. Some direction boards have been nailed to the
trees at the more important points, and their warnings or guidance should
be attended to.

TOWN of SARAWAK or KUCHING.— The principal part of the town is
on the South side of the river, where there is a good bazaar and market.
The church and bishop's residence are also on this side of the river ; and

LUPAR AND EAJANG EIVERS. 483

close to the building, half fort aud half house, which stands on Crookshank
Point, are the post-office, treasury, and other government offices.

The Rajah's house is prettily situated on a small elevation above the new
fort, with one or two bungalows near it for the use of his staff.

In 1871, the total value of exports was £169,826; of imports £172,331.
In this year twenty-three vessels entered from Great Britain and her colo-
nies, carrying considerably more than half (in value) of the imports and
exports.

Beef and fowls, with sweet potatoes and other vegetables, can be obtained
without difficulty.

Directiona to pass outside the Moratabas. — Owing to the shifting of the banks
at the Moratabas entrance, the exterior line of danger, in 3 fathoms at low
water springs, is no longer represented by a line E. by S. ^ S. from Po Point
to Curong Island. Unless intending to enter the river, Sipang Thumbs
should not be brought to the northward of West, until well past the Mora-
tab is entrance.

LUPAR RIVER, or Batang Lupar, is known also as the Sakarran from the
Sakarran tribe of D^'aks inhabiting it. To enter this river, bring Burong
Island to bear S.S.E., or equidistant between West Peak and Bliong Hill,
passing Burong Island at a safe distance. The mud flat has pretty nearly
equal water over it, but it was found to be apparently deeper, and the bottom
softer, close to the southern coast line (even with the starboard oars touching
the mud).

For boats or vessels of light draught, the Lupar River may be approached
from the northward, but it is necessary to be guided by the direction as
well as time of tide, particularly as the ebb tide sets westerly on Burong
Island,

The young flood brings in a lore, which may be avoided by anchoring in 6
fathoms within the Linga entrance, or in 4 fathoms eastward of Aboi Point,
until after the first quarter flood.

Sarebas River is 12 or 13 miles to the north-eastward of the Lupar. Its
entrance has not been surveyed, but Commander Miall, who, in 1858, in
H.M.S. Mohaiclc, proceeded some distance up this river, remarks as follows : —
The Sarebas is a larger river than the Rajang, In charge of a pilot, an
Englishman in the employ of the Rajah of Sarawak, we proceeded 40 miles,
though at night. The soundings are regular and deep. The only necessary
precaution is to take the bends of the river (which are numerous), avoiding
the spits which run out from the points.

It is high water, full and change, at Burong Island, at 4'' 45"°, and the rise
of tide 7 ft. The flood tide off the island sets S.E., 2^ knots an hour, and
the ebb, N. W. by N., at the same rate ; the ordinary rise is 6 ft.

RAJANG RIVER. — In this neighbourhood the land is very low, and a
large river, the Rajang, falls into the sea by two mouths, the larger of which

484 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

is about 45 miles north-eastward of Tanjong Po, and 40 miles southward of
Tanjong' Sirik. This river is likely to become of some commercial import-
ance, and it will, under very careful pilotage, admit vessels of 20 ft. or more
draught, the following are deduced from what the original chart by Lieut.
Gordon warrants.

His anchorage is marked just to the southward of Tanjong Jerri, the
North point of entrance, and the leading mark given by him is the Lalang
branch of the river open, with the South point of the entrance bearing
S.E. ^ E. But it would be preferable to bring Tanjong Jerri to bear East a
little northerly, until the inner point, easterly, showed the river open in 5
fathoms. Enter on the first quarter flood with these marks lapping, when
the swell of the last drain of ebb will have subsided, and give Tanjong Jerri
a fair berth.

Commander Miall, in H.M.S. Mohmck, also proceeded up the Eajang. He
remarks as follows: — "Steamed up the Eajang to the fort or stockade, a
distance of 25 miles. The water is pretty deep, and there are but few dan-
gers ; the anchor was let go off the fort in 6 J fathoms. The river at this part
is very narrow ; we experienced a difficulty in turning under steam on that
account, as also from the strength of the tides."

Mr. Consul Eicketts, in his commercial report for 1865, remarks — "From
accurate information, I find that there are from 3J to 4 fathoms over the
bar of the Eajang at low water, and at high water probably 6 fathoms.
Ships of 1,000 tons and upwards could proceed some few miles up the river
and find good anchorage either at the village of Eajang, situated at no
great distance from its mouth, or at Mount Sousou, about 12 miles above
the village.

Tides. — It is high water, at full and change, at the mouth of the Eajang,
at 4*" 45"; the rise of the day tides is 9 ft., and the night tides 13 ft. ; the
apparent depth on the bar at low water (at the time of its survey, in 1847,)
being 3 fathoms. The tides, both in this river and the Sarebas, are very
strong.

Quitting this river, it is advisable to stand to the N.W. into 18 or 20 fa-
thoms before stretching to the n'Orthward, to round Tanjong Sirik.

Palo River. — Following the coast line northerly from the Eajang, the
Balony Eiver is about 6 miles northwardof Tanjong Jerri ; it is unimportant,
and possibly but an estuary connecting with the Palo Eiver, halfway between
the Eajang and Tanjong Sirik. The Palo has a small islet on the sandy
tongue of its southern point.

Quitting the Palo Eiver and proceeding northerly, the off-shore soundings,
between 12 and 6 fathoms, appear to afford sufficient warning until nearing
Tanjong Sirik, which should not be approached under a depth of 12 fathoms.

TANJONG SIRIK, the western point of entrance to the Bruit Eiver, is
low and dangerous, and ehoale extend from it to the distance of 6 miles.

TANJONG SIETK. 485

Vessels should not come nparer this point than 8 miles, nor into less water
than 12 fathoms, the soundings decreasing rapidly from that depth to 4
fathoms.

It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Bruit Eiver, at
S*" ; and springs rise 11 ft. The ebb and flood preserve an E. by N. and
W. by S. set off the entrance in 6 fathoms.

The tides in the offing set north-eastward and south-westward, but in-
shore follow more closely the direction of the coast, and near Tanjong Sirik
they will be found to run North and South with a velocity, according to the
prevalence of rain, from 2 to 3 knots an hour. The flood tide will be found
to produce a strong indraught into all the rivers, which must be carefully
guarded against.

Proceeding northward from the Sarawak, a good off-shore course must be
steered, and allowance made for the flood tide, which runs strong to the
S.E. on the line between Tanjong Po and Tanjong Sirik, but follows more
closely the direction of the coast in shore, setting strong into the mouths of
the rivers. It will be well remembered that Matang sharp peak seen over
the inner brow of Moratabas Peninsula about W. by S. f S., is the danger
line for vessels of moderate draught, and Sipang Thumb bearing West, the
warning for the off-lying shoals of the Sarawak Eiver,

Shoals^ extend 6 miles from Tanjong Sirik, the flood tide setting strong
upon it with a heavy swell ; this point should not, therefore, be neared to a
less distance than 8 miles, or under a depth of 12 fathoms, the soundings
decreasing suddenly from that depth to 4 fathoms.

The Coast. — From Tanjong Sirik to Tatan Point, a safe course, recom-
mended, is parallel to the chord between these points about E. by N. in 12
fathoms, which will afford an average distance of 10 miles off shore. Pro-
ceeding, therefore, on this course in the above depth, if making a passage,
or in 6 fathoms if intending to call at the rivers, we first meet with the mouth
of the Ballang River. The entrance, which appears to be nearly North and
South'with the river open, is barred nearly 3 miles off shore. The village of
Oury is about 2 miles within, on the northern bank.

To the eastward of the Ballang are the rivers Oyah, Panuit, and Judah, but
they have not been sufidciently examined to warrant more than the visit by
boats. The Muka is the next important river in point of trade and popula-
tion, but as the chart indicates only 3 ft. at low water, it is not likely to be
visited by any but boats or native craft. Writing of this region, Lieut,
de Crespigny, E.N., remarks, in 1873, that he had been up to Mount Ular
Bulu in search of cinnibar, but had found no indication of it or any other
metal.

The mouth of the Neian appears to have received some attention, off which
Lieutenant Gordon anchored in two positions, N.E. and N.AV. of its entrance.
It is obstructed by a bar, having only li ft. of water. This is succeeded by

486 NORTH-AVEST COAST OF BORNEO.

the Tat an River, nearly 4 miles W.S.W. of Tatan Point. Mount Tatan is
1,890 ft. high, and bears S.E. J E. distant 10 miles from the entrance of the
Tatan River, and S.S.W. distant nearly 20 miles from the entrance of the
Bintula River. Farther inland, to the southward of Mount Tatan, is a ridge
of hills, the most prominent of vrhich is named Table Hill.

The Bintula, also a barren river, was visited by the Samarang in 1843.
The approach, particularly on the ebb, is dangerous. The cutter grounded
about 2 miles off shore, and the swell several times threatened to top. The
water deepens suddenly within, and the stream, which was fresh at the last
of the ebb, is of a deep reddish hue. The natives, or probably a piratical
crew, seen within, did not appear to be well disposed.

The natives' leading mark is a dead tree on Tupak Hill in line with the
West point of entrance S.E. by S.

This part of Borneo is now under the Grovernment of the Rajah of Sarawak,
by arrangement with the Sultan of Borneo. Trading stations are estab-
lished both at Bintula and Muka.

It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Bintula River, at
b^ 45™, and the rise is 6 ft.

The following notes are from the Sarawak Gazette : — Bintula stands on the
banks of a river which is easily navigated by vessels of the size generally
employed on our coast. During the N.E. monsoon there is generally much
less sea at the mouth of the river than at other places on the coast, as it is
protected by Kidurong Point. There are 9 or 10 ft. on the bar at the top
of the tide, and the entrance is about 60 yards across. The gunboat ITearts-
ease and the schooner Courier have come in two or three times during the
year 1870. From one branch at the head of the Bintula River the upper
part of the Rejang can be easily reached by a short journey overland. This
route is constantly used by traders during the N.E. monsoon. They find it
easier to come from Baloi to Bintula at that season than to descend the
dangerous rapids in the Rejang, which must be passed to reach Sibu.
Another branch of the upper Bintula River runs in the direction of the
Tinga. The journey overland between the streams only consumes a day and
a half for loaded men. Tinga traders occasionally bring produce, to Bintula
by this route. Vessels, as they enter the Bintula River, have to pass the
fort, and then reach the bazaar, off which all traders anchor. This bazaar
is chiefly built of wood, with bilian ataps, though some of the houses are still
roofed and walled with nipa leaves. The Kampong is further up, above the
bazaar. New houses are being built here at the edge of the river on bilian
posts 9 or 10 ft. high, with plank or bark walls and leaf ataps. These new
heuses are long buildings with a double row of rooms and a passage between,
the people living on either side of this corridor. In front of the house are
the platforms on which the raw sago is worked, built on posts or floating on

KIDUEONG BAY. 487

the river, for the sake of getting the water used in the process of making
"without difficulty.

The fort, bazaar, and principal part of the Kampong are built on the
right bank of the river ; there are, however, three smaller kampongs on the
opposite bank. The exports in 1870, valued at 172,946 dollars, besides
gutta percha and raw sago, consist of camphor, india-rubber, bezoar-stones,
and various sorts of canes. The country up the river is laid out in large
plantations of the sago palm. There are very few paddy fields, the inha-
bitants not growing rice enough for their own consumption. Bilian wood
grows abundantly on the banks. The greatest obstacle to improvement is
the want of population.

The Acis Patches were announced in October, 1860 : — " Two coral shoals
have been discovered off the N.W. coast of Borneo by the brigantine Acis.
The position of the eastern shoal is given as lat. 3° 45' N., long. 112° 42' E.
The other shoal lies on the same parallel, and at a short distance to the
westward."

The Rifleman anchored near the reported positions of these patches, and
searched for them without success. It is possible they may exist somewhere
in that locality ; but as 9 and 10 fathoms are shown on them in the chart
they were not of sufficient importance to detain her.

Kidurong Bay. — Northerly from the Bintula, at 5 miles distance, is Kidu-
rong Point, and about 3 miles S.S.E. from the point is a round hill named
Mount Kidurong. To the southward of Kidurong Point is the bay which
has been sounded, by Captain G. Heyler, of H.M. gunboat Heartsease.

Kidurong Bay is the only place of shelter along 300 miles of coast from
Tanjong Sirik to Labuan. In the N.E. monsoon small vessels could run in
here, and lie safely at anchor, sheltered from E.N.E. and N.W. gales. The
anchorage is good, being soft mud and sand ; the soundings vary from 2 to
8| fathoms ; good anchorage could be obtained about a quarter of a mile off
the inside point in 3 fathoms of water.

In entering the bay from the northward stand down till the point bears
E. J N. about one mile distant ; then stand in E. i N. to 2i or 3 fathoms of
water, and let go abont a quarter of a mile from the inside point with the
outside point bearing N.W. by N. Entering from the southward or Bintulu
side stand out into 5 fathoms, then stand for the point about N.E. by N., but
do not come closer than half a mile off' the point, then stand in for the
anchorage. Good fresh water may be obtained here in abundance.

The following are the bearings of the proposed lighthouse : Mount Tatu
N.N.E., and Kidurong Hill S.S.E.— C/ii«« Mail, 1872.

The coast from Kidurong Point to Breaker Bay and beyond appears to be
studded by rocky ledges. Indeed this coast, up to Tanjong Bali, should be
avoided within depths of 12 fathoms by day and 30 fathoms by night. The

488 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

soundings suddenly decreased from 12 to 6 fathoms, and heavy breakers,
with rocks above watei', were noticed some distance off-shore.

Lieutenant Gordon observes: — The large bay contained between Sirik
and Barram Points, as far as we have examined it, appears to be free
from danger. About 30 miles E.N.E.-ward from Sirik Point we found the
soundings about 7 miles off shore uneven, varying from 3 to 5 fathom, sand.
A rock also exists off Tanjong Bali, about 16 miles southward of Tanjong
Barram, but it is only 3 miles off the shore, and inside the 7 fathoms line.

The principal objects along the coasts of this bay are Mount Tatan, 1,890
feet; Mount Silungan, 1,500 ft.; and Mount Lambier, 1,550ft.

Marabu. — k.t 2 J miles northward of Tanjong Bali, and 13 miles southward
of Tanjong Barram, is the mouth of the Meri (or red) Eiver, on the southern
bank of which is the village of Marabu, where a considerable trade in bees'
wax and camphor is carried on with Borneo and Singapore. The entrance
is barred, and shoals extend some distance from the coast.

TANJONG BARRAM forms an abrupt bend of the coast, and is fringed
by a shoal line extending 2^ miles from the shore. Off shore the soundings
deepen suddenly, and no dangers seem to threaten; vessels working up may
therefore stretch well off this point to the north-westward, so as to make a
good board to the eastward.

The Barram River discharges itself into the sea in a W.N. W. direction at
the point. The greatest depth over the bar does not exceed 6 ft. at low
water, but suddenly deepens within to 4 and 5 fathoms ; the stream being
fresh nearly at the mouth.

The Coast from Barram Point easterly for 45 miles is very low, intersected
by numerous creeks, and at 38 miles from the point is the entrance of the
Ampa, where there appears to be some trade, and whence several prahus
were observed to depart.

AMPA PATCH.— N.E. | E. 32 miles from Tanjong Barram, and 15 miles
off shore, is the centre of a bank termed the Ampa Patch, composed of sand
and coral, upon which depths of 5 fathoms was the least water found. It is
surrounded by 15 fathoms, and irregular soundings.

SCOUT and VICTORIA PATCHES are two coral shoals lying to the south-
westward of the Bruni Patches, the channel between which and the coast of
Borneo, heretofore considered quite safe, being thereby rendered very dan-
gerous. Each shoal extends nearly a mile in a North and South, and about
half a mile in an East and West direction. These dangers were examined
in H.M.S. Rifleman, in 1863.

H.M.S. Scout passed over the edge of the former patch, in 4 fathoms. The
least water found by the Rifleman was 2 fathoms, which lies S.S.W. ^ W.
4f miles from the West Bruni Patch, and W. by S. i S. 12 miles from Keti
Islet.

The Victoria Patch waa discovered by H.M I.N. eteam-vessel Victoria, 16th

BRUNI PATCHES- PELONG POCKS. 489

August, 1860, and the least water obtained upon it was 17 ft. It bears
S.S.W. i W. 7 miles from the West Bruni Patch; S. by W. f W. 2 miles
from the Scout Patch, and W. by S. | S. 13 miles from Keti Islet.

A 2^ fathom patch, discovered in 1860, lies 2 miles westward of Victoria
Patch, and a 4J fathom patch to the S.W. of it.

The only mark to clear these dangers is a bearing of Keti Islet, which is
just visible at a distance of 12 miles.

BRUNI PATCHES.— From the Ampa Patch, steering easterly, the water
gradually shoals from 17 to 7 fathoms; when on the parallel of 5° N., and
with Bruni Cliffs (above which cleared or bald hills will be noticed), bearing
E. by S. nearly 10 miles, a series of coral patches will be found, extending
4 miles East and West, and 2 miles North and South, leaving a channel
within of 4 miles free from danger. From these patches, on which 2 fathoms
were found, Pisang Mount may be seen bearing East.

Two-Fathoms Rock. — Among the off-shore dangers a single cast of 2 fa-
thoms lies with Bruni white cliffs, bearing S.W. by S. distant 10 miles,
and Bruni bluff S.E. by E. J E. 7 miles. Woody Peak in line with Bruni
white cliffs leads directly on it.

Outlying Shoals.— During the passage of H.M.S. Iron Bulce, in 1872, from
Singapore to Labuan, soundings were obtained in 5 fathoms in lat. 5° 5' N.,
long. 114° 40' E., about 4^ miles N.N.W. of the Bruni Patches, with the
eastern extreme of the Bruni cliffs bearing S.E. f E.

Colombo Shoal is placed on the chart in lat. 5° 13' N., long. 114° 44' E. It
has 5 fathoms water over it.

Information was also received from the captain of a vessel trading between
Labuan and Singapore, of a similar patch about 16 miles to the N.E. of that
found by the Iron Bulce, reported to be in lat. 5° 13' N., long. 114° 53' E.
This position was determined from cross bearings of Kuraman Island and
Mount Pisang.

GTTNTJNG MALU, in the interior, is the highest mountain noticed in this
part of Borneo. It is in lat. 4° 5' 20" N., long. 114° 55' 8" E., and rises in a
conical form, slightly flattened at the apex, to an elevation of 8,000 ft. It
can be seen 90 miles, and is visible from Labuan to 20 miles southward of
Barram, a range of 100 miles.

BRUNI BLUFF slopes easterly to Pisang Point, where the sea at times
breaks heavily. The land rises to 600 ft. at Mount Pisang, which derives its
name from pisang, plantain in Malay. It is bare on the crown, excepting a
small patch of trees on its summit, and it forms the tail of a long range
extending about 12 miles towards the city of Bruni, and exhibits traces of
coal throughout. Numerous sandstone cliffs show to the northward.

PELONG ROCKS, lying 2 miles North of Bruni Bluff, consist of four

1. A. 3 R

490 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

separate rocks stretching to the northward ; the water is deep close-to, and
the channel between them and the bluff is safe. W. by N. ;^ N distant 6
miles is the 2-fathoms rock before described, having 5 fathoms immediately
surrounding it, outside of which there are 10 fathoms.

The main channel leading to the E.N.E. from the Pelong Eocks' may be
safely worked, even at night, in fine weather. It is about 4 miles in width,
and is everywhere safe in 16 fathoms.

Directions. — Between Sirik and Barram Points, steamers or vessels having
a fair wind may steer to pass the latter 4 or 5 miles off. There is nothing
in that track excepting the coral patches off the Bintula Eiver (page 487),
over which there are said to be 9 and 10 fathoms water. Neither are there
any known dangers in the offing nearer than the Luconia breakers. Vessels
working against the monsoons will find more regular tides in shore, but they
must guard against the effects of the indraught of the flood tide into the
several rivers.

Between Sirik and Tatan Points they may stand safely into 8 or 7 fathoms,
but between Tatan and Barram Points it does not appear to be safe to stand
into less than 12 fathoms, the soundings decreasing suddenly from that depth,
and the whole line of the coast is said to be studded with sudden dangers
from the instant the trees can be discerned.

Prom Barram Point to Labuan, or to the entrance of the Bruni Eiver, it
is proper, as previously remarked, to keep outside all the dangers between
Barram Point and Bruni Bluff.

BRUNI RIVER. — The city and Malay state of Bruni have given their
name to the largest island in the world, if Australia is reckoned as a con-
tinent. The modern name being synonymous with Borneo, as spelt by older
authors. It has been visited by European vessels for the coal which exists
in great abundance on the N.W. shore of the river. The trade of the port
of Bruni is almost exclusively carried on with the British settlements of
Singapore and Labuan, steamers running regularly between these places.
The trade is much the same as that described at Labuan. In 1875 exports
were valued at £36,663 ; imports at £36,672. The chief export was sago
to the value of £17,835, and the chief import cotton clothes, valued at
£13,448.

The port of Bruni lies about 15 miles up the river of that name, the
navigation of which is easy, but an artificial bar, which was constructed
about 300 years ago for purposes of defence, obstructs the free passage near
the island of Cherimon. At this spot, however, the river itself keeps a
narrow channel clear, sufl5ciently deep, at all times, for small craft, but large
ships can only pass the bar during high water. The town is called by travel-
lers a " water city," the houses being built on piles driven into the mud on
either side of the main stream of the river. Its population, chiefly Maho-
metan, is estimated to number 35,000. The situation is considered healthy.

BEUNI RIVER. 491

Tlie river and its approaches were origiually surveyed by Captain Drink-
water Bethune, R.N., in 1845, and this chart, with subsequent remarks,
forms the basis of the ensuing description. Brief and later directions will
be found on page 493.

The mouth of the Bruni River waS especially examined by Lieutenant
Gordon, in H.M.S. Royalist, and he observes : — " There are no good marks
for entering, and I do not think there could be better directions than those
given by Mr. Kirton in the old chart. — Thus : ' Do not come within 4 J miles
of the S.E. point of Moaro Island until it is brought to bear S.W. by W.
or W.S.W., then stand right for it, as the Moaro Reef trends neao-ly N.E.
for 3 or 4 miles.'

''Moaro lieefis all sand, and has two or three small rocks near the sea; it
is only dry near the island at low water, but the whole of it is very shoal ;
coming near it may always be known by the soundings changing from mud
to sand."

This rule of sand is not always a sure guide, as sand will be found on the
Sundar Spit, and at night, or after sunset, a vessel obtaining 4 fathoms, sand
may be induced to steer easterly, and thus become fixed for a tide on the
Sundar Spit.

Some little experience in this locality, and as far up as the city of Bruni,
induce the following : The whole region about the entrance to the Bruni
abounds in dangers, demanding extreme caution, and the banks appear to
have changed their outline since the old chart was constructed. Entering
by the Moaro Shoal, endeavour to keep in 10 fathoms, or until reaching a
depth of 5 fathoms, having Mount Pisang open of the northern extreme of
Moaro Island on the bearing W. by S. ^ S. Or, running down from the
northward, bring it on that bearing and steer for Sapo Point, until having
passed over 5 fathoms, sand, depths of 6 fathoms or less, mud, are obtained.

If the bearings can be depended on, and the outline of Moaro can be
seen (trees northward), this course should lead directly up to the extremity
of Moaro Spit.*

Tree Peak in line witli Sapo Point bearing about S.W. by W. i W. just
clears Sundar Spit in 3 fathoms.

Now, at the present day, when every navigator handles his sextant with
ease, let him bring Mount Pisang to bear W. by S. i S., and steer for it
until Mount Say subtends an angle of 18^. He will then know distinctly
his position, and from thence he may be enabled practically to reach the
anchorage off Moaro securely.

* Sapo Point is low, -with a few shrubs, but there are (or were) high trees about 7 cables'
lengths westward of it, which are seen 10 or 12 miles. A stranger would not be able to
recognise Mount Say without a good description of it, on account of the numerous hills.
It is a sharp cone, having an elbow at right angles on one side, and is seen over the hills
close to the sea shore. — Navigatins-Licutenant Russell, H.M.S. Reitnard, 1863.

492 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BOENEO.

Having proceeded as directed, steer now direct for Mount Say and -watch
the angle of Pisang with Mount Say, until it reaches 22° 30', when the vessel
will be in the fair channel in 6 fathoms, mud.

It is important to bear in mind that the course of the ebb is about N.E. ^
E., whereas that of the flood sets about S.E. across Sundar Spit, on the
starboard beam of a vessel entering, and vice versa departing. Due allow-
ance should be made for this, and the hand-lead allowed to remain at the
bottom a few minutes, if in doubt, to determine not only the set of the ship,
but also if she overcomes the tide.

As soon as Sapo Point can be distinctly seen, it should be kept a little
open of Tree Peak on its proper constant bearing, but if the flood tide be
running it must be kept on the starboard bow. There is no fear of danger
on that side, and Sapo Point must be hugged closely, to avoid the Tapayan
sands, the flood running with considerable force past Sapo Point. The vessel
should be rounded to starboard, and the anchor let go immediately on round-
ing the point, which will ensure the best berth.

The ebb tide strikes into the embayed coast line of Moaro, and forces the
tide easterly, until it clears the point ; precaution should therefore be observed
to prevent the tide setting the vessel on to the eastern tongue.

Such instructions have proved a sufficient guide to enter rivers much more
intricate than that of Bruni ; and where the safety of a vessel is involved,
neither the trouble of pilotage from aloft, nor the practice of the more im-
proved modes, by reliable instruments, should induce any seaman to omit
making use of the facilities which correct charts thus afibrd.

Vessels anchoring here should have an anchor well to the eastward, as
night squalls frequently drive vessels from their anchors.

Water may be obtained near the beach, but unless driven by necessity,
its use should be avoided. It is of a dark colour, strongly impregnated by
peat, and probably affected by naphtha springs, or pyrites connected with
the underlying coal.*

* A good channel, beaconed with a least depth of 18 ft at high water, leads up to it.
The first and last of these beacons on ttie starboard or northern side are distinguished by
a sort of ball on their summits, the space between and also the port side of the channel
being marked by branches of trees. Vessels intending to take this channel may, after
rounding Sapo Point, steer along the South coast of Moaro or at a discretionary distance,
according to the depth of water, which decreases gradually towards the island, taking care
not to open Mount Pisang of Bowong Point until clear of the Tapayan shoals, and when
approaching Bowong Point keep a good look-out for the beacons on either hand, between
which the vessel is to pass. A tolerable mark through between the beacons is a small elbow
on the northern part of Mount Pisang, iu line with some white cottages below it, bearing
W. by N. or W.N.W. Strangers should procure a pilot, as the beacons are liable to be
washed away. — Navigating Lieutenant H, S. Ley, H.M.S. Cormorant, \%bT.

BEUNI EIVER. 493

Sapo Point to Bruni. — The course of the river from Sapo Point to Bruui,
the capital of Borneo proper, may generally be discerned by the lines of
fishing stakes, which, at the period of Lieut. Gordon's visit appeared to ter-
minate by the fishing stage in deep water, and alternately on either bank,
Thus, by leaving the first on the left, second on the right, &c., the channel
was easily traced by the boats.

Mount Pisang and Bowong Point (the south-western extreme of Moaro)
in line clears both the Tapayan Spits ; and Mount Say kept open eastward of
Jagar Ridge leads up to the bar.

On nearing the islands Churmin and Ingaran (literally, Churmin, brio-ht
like a looking-glass, and Areng, coal), the channel between Ingaran and the
main may be taken by boats. But the ship canal has been artificially nar-
rowed by stones laid down, continuous with the reef from Ingaran, so as to
compel vessels to pass under the guns of the forts on the North end of
Churmin. The result has been to cause the current to cut a deep channel
round the point of Churmin, and, entering with the flood, it requires very
great caution, from the sudden turn from South to N.N.W., to prevent
being thrown on the breakwater to starboard, or the Churmin Rocks to port.
Fortunately the channel then leads by a moderate curvature to the western
shore, after which a course mid-channel, and moderate attention to the chart,
will carry safely uy to the city, the anchorage being at the opening leading
to the palace in 6 fathoms.

" The Barou Islands may be recognised on approach, the southern being
high and rounded, the northern low, with two conspicuous clumps of large
trees close together. Mount Say be known by taking its bearing on approach ;
it appears the northern of three hills of similar elevation, and has a steep
notched shoulder on the right, which is the leading mark. If not made out
before, after passing Sapo Point it will be the right-hand hill seen over River
Point."— Commander Bullock, H.M.S. Serpent, 1866.

"To enter: After passing Sapo Point, steer to the westward, and brin"'
Mount Say to bear S.W. | W. open East of Jagar Ridge, until Sapo Point
bears N.E. by E. \ E., when alter course to S.W. by W. h W., keeping
Mount Pisang astern. When Mount Pisang bears N. by E. ^ E., a stake
beacon should be seen, which leave about half a cable on the port hand
then steer S. by W, ^ W., keeping Mount Pisang astern. When Mount
Say comes just clear of Jagar Ridge, the vessel should be between two
stake beacons lying E. by N. and W. by S. from each other. From the
beacons alter course to S.S.W., which should lead mid-channel between the
beacons on South Bar bank and Barrier beacon." — Navigating Sub-Lieut.
E. H. WelHngs, H.M.S. Lily, 1876.

H.M.S. Lily in crossing the bar at high water by the above-mentioned
channel, had not less than 14 ft. water, bottom soft mud. At spring- tides,

494 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

2 ft. more water would probably be found. The flood-tide in the channel
sets on to the barrier of stones.

In the river above Barrier beacon, considerably less water was found by
the Lili/t in the month of May, than is shown on the chart. The bank
which extends from the North shore of the river, 4 miles above Asing
Point, has extended farther out than was formerly marked on the chart.

Tides. — By the chart it is high water, full and change, in the Bruni River
at ll*", and springs rise 12 ft.

Commander Bullock remarks : — " From good information from the best
Labuan pilot, the ordinary rise at springs is 8 ft., occasionally 9 ft. There
is a greater range in November, December, and January. From January
to June the high tides occur at night ; from July to December in the day-
time. The intermediate high water rises only 1^ ft. above the mean level."

Supplies. — Fresh water may be obtained from a spring near the base of
the Kianghi, where the natives will be observed filling their bamboos. The
entire range of this mountain, terminating at Bruni bluff, is probably com-
posed of coal, which in many positions crops to the surface. The market of
Bruni, carried on by numerous canoes, supplies poultry, eggs, deer, fruit,
vegetables, &c. The trade is the same as that (described on page 496) of
Labuan.

The water buffalo were used for beef; but bullocks of good quality are to
be obtained through the Kadyans or Dyak race of this region, the Malays
not being a pastoral or farming race.

The LABTJAN GROUP, a dependency of Great Britain since 1845, com-
prehends Labuan, Kuraman, Burong (or Bird Island), Rusukan Besar (or
Great Rusukun, supposed to be connected with deer), Rusukan Kechil (or
Little Rusukan), EniJe, Pappan (or Coolin Pappan), and Daat.*

Labuan, the largest of the group, extends about 10 miles in a N.E, by N.
and S.W. by S. direction, forming an obtuse-angled triangle on this base,
and having about 5 miles width at the vertex, where it would perpendicu-
larly bisect the base. This supposed division into two right-angled triangles
would divide the island into nearly equal portions, the northern being the
solid land, and the southern marshy, or intersected by streams.

There is good timber on the north-western point of the island, but it was
more easily obtained on the southern portion at the watering place about 1

• The signification of the word Labuan in the Malay language is anchoring-place. In
Marsden's Dictionary it is written Labuh-an ; but this has eventually, or by the dropping
of the h, fallen into its present use.

Labuan was given to the English in 1845 as a port or trading station ; and a right was
secured for British subjects to reside or trade in any part of the dominions of the Sultan
of Borneo. In recent years it has been proposed to bring the government of Labuan under
the administration of the Straits Settlements.

THE LABUAN GROUP. 495

mile from Kiamsan Point, the S.W. point of the island. It was used for
boat plank, timbers, and knees, being a rough description of poon, varying
much in solidity, from the centre, which was very dense, to the outer coating,
■which resembled cedar. The watering place is well marked by the termina-
tion of a range of casuarina trees at a bright sandy beach at the northern
bend of the bay. The supply is abundant, landing easy, on a sandy beach,
and boats lie safe within convenient distance for hoses. It is almost in
connection with a salt-water pool, which may cause some mistake. At low
■water large and excellent oysters may be found attached to the rocks, then
laid bare.

The North end of Labuan is the highest part of the island, its summit,
topped by trees, being elevated 460 ft., and appearing, when seen from the
North, as two peaks of equal height. It is surrounded by sandstone cliffs,
and an extensive reef stretches off the northern point ; a continuation of this
belts the island, offering occasional breaks admitting boats. The northern
portion is worked for coal, and convenient anchorage for vessels of any
draught may be foimd off Koubong bluff. Steam vessels can approach to
a cable's length of the beach.

A reef extending from the point off Koubong Bluff affords a good founda-
tion for a jetty, but a heavy sea occasionally tumbles in upon this coast
during the N.E. monsoon ; vessels should therefore, in that monsoon, an-
chor well out in a safe position for getting away, and veer in for coalino-.

The best spars can be obtained here, and after rain a stream of reddish
water flows over the rocks to the sea.

Fresh dangers are frequently discovered off the northern reef, and great
vigilance is necessary, the lead affording no warning ; the patches, when the
sun is visible, exhibit a light green hue, and a peculiar heave of the sea may
be detected by a vigilant observer. A breaking patch lies 2^ miles to the
N.N.E. of the point.

COAL. — The coal seams extend the length and breadth of Labuan ; the
mines are at the North end of the island. The coal produces satisfactory
results, and is exported to Hong Kong and elsewhere, but it burns rapidly.
In 1848 the value of the coal exported amounted to £600, and in 1874 to
£3,451. The quantity raised fluctuates largely from year to year ; in 1866
it was valued at £11,995. Recent endeavours have been made to reach an
11 -ft. seam, but great difficulty arises from the badness of the pumping ma-
chinery, which is not able to cope with the water in the mine. In December,
1874, a depth of 96 fathoms had been reached, and three separate seams of
6^ ft., 3 ft., and 4^ ft. had been discovered. The price, in 1874, did not
exceed 5 dollars 50 cents per ton free on board, 15 dollars per ton being the
cost in the neighbouring colonies..

The railroad from the mines to the shipping place at Tanj ong Kubono',

496 NOEXn-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

including a substantial jetty, was constructed in 1862. A new wharf was
commenced in 1874.

The climate of Labuan closely resembles that of the warm summer months
in the South of Ireland. Temperature ranges between 71° and 90°. Eain
falls plentifully, but chiefly in the night.

Supplies. — Fresh beef can be procured in Labuan. Vegetation is luxu-
riant, and the finest fruit is grown ; oranges, pummellos, mangoes, man-
gosteens, pine-apples, bananas, &c., can be got in abundance.

Fish is plentiful and cheap, and fowls can be purchased, but nearly every-
thing is very dear. The water in Victoria Harbour is bad ; it can be pro-
cured at high tide.

The long continued prevalence of cholera in 1876, and the previous out-
break of small-pox in 1873, had had a very depressing influence on trade.

Labuan may be considered an outport to Singapore, as here the produce
of the neighbouring coasts and of the Sooloo Islands is collected for re-
shipment to Singapore, which is distant 707 miles. The total imports
into the colony during the year 1875 were valued by the importers at
£119,362 ; of these there came from Singapore £67,105, and from the coast
of Borneo £52,257. The exports were in all £114,332, of which £63,229
went to Singapore ; the exports to the coast of Borneo, being taken as of
equal value to the imports with which they are purchased, represent a total
of £51,103. Copper coinage, in 1875, was replacing on the coast of Borneo
the cumbrous forms of metallic currency formerly prevalent there.

Exports in 1874, taking them in order of importance, were as follows : —
Sago, £30,109; birds' nests, £4,342; india-rubber, £3,867 (decreasing);
coal, bees'-wax, specie, rattans, camphor, tortoise-shell, pearls, hides, dam-
mar, gutta-percha, sharks' fins, &c. The principal articles in use at Labuan
and adjacent coasts are — brass, brass dishes, wire and other brassware, boxes,
candles, cotton cloth, cotton thread, thread for embroidery, earthenware,
gambler, gongs, gunpowder, iron bars, empty jars, muskets, opium, salt,
sugar, tobacco, &c., &c., all of which are obtained from Singapore by the
Labuan traders. A very good breed of ponies might be procured in consi-
derable numbers on the N.W. coast of Borneo, also at Cagayan Sooloo, and
more at Sooloo itself.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Victoria Harbour at 9"* 45"" ;
springs rise 6 ft., neaps 4^ ft. There are two regular tides in the day, but
in the S.W. monsoon the night tide does not rise as high as the day tide,
and in the N.E. monsoon the night tide is the highest. In the slack of the
monsoon the rise of the tides is equal.

VICTORIA HARBOUR, on the S.E. side of Labuan, is well sheltered in
both monsoons. The general depths in it are from 4 to 10 fathoms, over
a bottom of stiflf mud, decreasing gradually as the head of the harbour is
approached. Moor open hawse to the S.E., as strong gusts from South to

LABUAN. 497

East occur, particularly at night. The atmosphere here is oppressive, and
unless compelled to remain, it is preferable to anchor South of Pappan
Island, where the full strength of land and sea breezes will be experienced.
The shores of the harbour are bordered with sand-banks, which dry at
low water. On the West side they extend off nearly 3 cables, and are in-
terspersed with patches of rocks and stones. On the North side the bank
does not extend more than a cable from the shore. Each side they are
steep-to ; at half a cable's length from where the sand dries there is deep
water.

Rusukan Kechil, one of the group of islands off the S.W. extremity
of Labuan, was selected by Sir E. Belcher for the astronomical position,
being convenient for the survey, and solid ground. Its eastern sandy
tongue is the point on which the observations were made.

Vessels visiting this group, simply for rating chronometers on Little Ru-
sukan, should give it a clear berth to the southward of 3 miles, hauling up
when the western extremes of Great Eusukan and Kuraman are in line,
and avoiding the 2^-fathom patch to the south-eastward of the former, by
bringing Little Eusukan on either outline of Kuraman, anchor in 11 fathoms
about 1 mile East of Little Eusukan, where good landing may be found on
the northern beach.

BARAT BANK has 2 fathoms on it, and its outer extremity lies S.W. |
W. 3| miles from Great Eusukan, the soundings decreasing suddenly from
30 to 10 fathoms near it. It is therefore prudent not to haul up for Great
Eusukan until it bears N.E., preserving the depth of about 15 fathoms on
an E.N.E. course until Great Eusukan is open westerly of Kuraman, when
the course to Pappan is free from danger. Preserving a depth of 15 fathoms
will keep you clear of a 3i-fathom patch which lies 1 mile South of Great
Eusukanjand 4 cables S.E. of a breaking patch.

Lieutenant Gordon observes : — " Between the S.W. point of Labuan and
Kuraman is a passage between reefs, but I do not consider it safe."

Formosa Hock lies in the channel between Kuraman Island and Kiamsan
Point, with the latter bearing N.N.E. -^ E., and Burong Island East.

Trident Shoal, lying S.S.W. ^ W., nearly a mile from Enoe Island, is a
coral patch 2 cables long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and one cable broad, with
only 1 fathom on it at low water. The North extreme of Daat Island just
touching the South end of Pappan clears it to the southward, and the flag-
staff on Eamsay Point open East oF Enoe clears it to the eastward. There
is a passage 2 cables wide, with a depth of 6 fathoms, between it and the
shoal running off Enoe.

Enoe Island. — The shoal surrounding this island consists of sand, with
occasional patches of rocks and stones. It runs off 7 cables to the north-

I.A. 3 s

498 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

■ward, 3^ to the southward, and 3 cables to the eastward of the island, and
on the "West side joins the coral reefs stretching out from Labuan. A beacon
(consisting of stakes lashed at the top) is placed on its N.E. extreme in 4
fathoms water, with the summit of Enoe bearing S.W. ^ S., distant nearly
7 cables, flagstaff on Ramsay Point N.N.E., 1 mile, and extreme of man-
grove on Hamilton Point, West, nearly 8 cables. The shoal is steep-to
on all sides ; at a cable distant from where it dries are from 6 to 7 fathoms
water.

Pappan Island is flat, and covered with trees, the tops of which are
124 ft. above the sea level. It is surrounded by a shoal which extends a
cable's distance from the North shore, 2 cables from the West, and 3 cables
from the South shores, and to the westward it is only separated by a small
passage three-quarters of a cable wide from the reefs running off Daat
Island and the main coast of Borneo. A Je«cow is placed on the S.W. ex-
treme of the shoal in 4 fathoms, and from it the S.W. end of Pappan bears
N.E. ^ N. 2f cables, the summit of Enoe W. \ S. 1^ mile, and the flagstaff
on Ramsay Point N.N.W. ^ W., li mile.

Outer Shoal, lying between Pappan and Enoe Island, is a cable in extent,
consists of coral, and has only 3 ft. on it at low water. A beacon with a black
ball is placed in 1 J fathom on its East side, close to the shoalest part, and
from it the flagstaff on Ramsay Point bears N. \ W. 12 cables ; summit of
Enoe Island W. by S. f S., nearly a mile ; Pappan beacon E. by S. f S.,
two-thirds of a mile ; and Enoe beacon N.W. by W. J W., half a mile. The
passage between the Outer Shoal and Pappan beacon is 6 cables wide, and
has depths of 12 to 25 fathoms ; the passage between it and Enoe beacon is
4 cables wide, and has 9 to 11 fathoms.

Harbour Shoal, lying between Ramsay Point and Enoe Island, is a small
coral patch, half a cable in extent, with 1^ fathom least water on it. A
beacon with a white ball is placed near the centre of the shoal, and from it
the flagstaff on Ramsay Point bears N. by E. ^E., distant 6 cables' lengths ;
Outer beacon S. by E. | E., 6^ cables; and Enoe beacon S.W. by S., 4^
cables. Vessels may pass on either side of this shoal.

Columbine Beacon.* — From Ramsay Point the shoal water extends in an
E.S.E. direction for 7 cables, when it turns to the E.N.E., and curves gra-
dually to the northward. The edge of this bank is or was marked by the
Columbine and Inner beacons.

* Caution. — Mariners are cautioned r' to put confidence in the arrangement of the
beacons as placed on the charts marking the approaches to Victoria Harbour. Columbine
beacon and the three beacons on the West side of the bank to the northward of Daat Island
do not exist.— Mercantile Marine Magazine, June, 1871.

LABUAN— VICTORIA HARBOUE. 499

The Columbine beacon, surmounted by a black ball, is in 3 fathoms water,
and from it the flagstatf on Ramsay Point bears W. \ S., nearly a mile ;
Collier Head N. | W., 9J cables, and the S.W. point of Pappan Island
S. I W., li mile.

On an old chart of Labuan a rock was placed just to the north-east-
ward of the position of this beacon, but although searched for carefully,
nothing more than a small patch of coral with 1^ fathom on it was found,
just detached from the edge of the 2-fathom line of soundings, but inside
the line of 3 fathoms. The centre of this patch is N.E. by N., If cable
from the beacon, the 3-fathom line of soundings running in a N.E. by E,
direction, li cable from the beacon. In the channel, 1 mile wide, between
Columbine beacon and the shoal off Pappan Island, the soundings are irre-
gular, from 9 to 20 fathoms.

The Inner Beacon marks the edge of the shoal water halfway between
Columbine beacon and Ramsay Point. It is in 2 fathoms at low water, and
from it Columbine beacon bears E. by N. ^ N., distant half a mile ; the flag-
staff on Ramsay Point W. by N. half a mile ; and Collier Head N. by E. | E.,
1^ mile. Between these two beacons the edge of the shoal curves a cable's
length to the southward of a straight line joining them, and between the
Inner beacon and the flagstaff off Ramsay Point there is a coral patch of 1
fathom and another of three-quarters of a fathom, detached from the edge
of the bank, which extends 1| cable to the southward of a straight line
joining the flagstaff and beacon. Both patches are steep-to, and to avoid
them keep Columbine beacon open of the Inner beacon, whilst the flagstaff
on Ramsay Point is on a bearing westward of North.

Two beacons, with a white hall on each, are placed on the western edge of the
reef extending from Daat Island to Lubedan Island. The southern one
stands about E.N.E., a little more than 2 miles from Collier Head. The
northern one is N.E. |^ N., 3A miles from the same place, and N. f E., nearly
2 miles from the South beacon. (See note, p. 498.)

DIRECTIONS for South Channel.— In working into Victoria Harbour
from the S.W., Pappan open to the northward of Daat clears the Trident
Shoal on one hand, and Burong open of Kiamsan Point gives fair warning
of it on the other. The flood tide runs fast near Pappan Island, and from
the prevailing winds it was found advisable to hug its western side, making
short boards to the N.E. until a free course into Victoria Harbour offered,
grazing the northern dangers. Work up under the South side of Pappan
until the vessel can weather Enoe. Tack on the first cast in 10 fathoms ; if
the tide should tend to shut Little Rusukan in with EniJe, keep away, as
thpy must be kept open until near Pappan, which is bold-to on the West.
Keep rap full, and go round before the vessel is swept past its northern end,
otherwise the eddy may bewilder the steerage. Tack again in 10 fathoms

500 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

before Great Rusukan Peak opens inside of Enoe. This will clear the 6-ft,
patch, on which Burong Island will be seen clear of Hamilton Point. When
the northern bluflfs are seen open of Collier Head, the vessel will have a free
wind into Victoria Harbour. Keep Burong just shutting with Hamilton
Point until the harbour beach opens, when the vessel may safely round the
1 -fathom tongue, extending H cable's length to the south-eastward of the
flagstaff, by keeping in 6 fathoms.

Vessels wishing to sail in or out of Victoria Harbour should always take
advantage of the land and sea breezes, instead of attempting to work in.
Arriving in the afternoon or at night, the best way is to anchor about half a
mile South of the Outer shoal in 10 to 11 fathoms, weighing at daylight the
next morning, and running in with the land breeze ; and in leaving the har-
bour wait for the sea breeze between noon and 1 p.m., which carries a vessel
with a fair wind past all danger.

North Channel. — As regards the pilotage of this channel, much diversity
of opinion seemed to exist, but, it may be remarked, not by those who made
the surveys. No difficulty was at any time experienced in beating through
with the object of determining the 5-fathom limit. The following, there-
fore is the result of practical knowledge.

In leaving Victoria Harbour by this passage enter mid-channel between
the shoals of Ramsay Point and Daat Island, with Burong Island open of
Hamilton Point, and when the S.E. point of Daat shuts in with its S.W.
angle, and Malancassan Island opens off its northern point, a N. f E. course
may be steered, which, with the tide, and edging easterly on any cast less
than 5 fathoms, will carry the vessel out in not less than that depth.*

The westerly soundings are all safe, and dangers dependent on sun's bear-
ing, or before 2 p.m. visible.

In approaching from the northward steer for mid-channel, but withal
nearer to Lubedan. Nothing less than 4^ fathoms water on that shore wiU
be found until Lubedan opens from the distant tall trees of the N.E. coast ;
then proceed direct for Pappan Island, and when Burong opens haul in for
the town point, and anchor as before.

Route from Labuan to the Palawan. — Sir Edward Belcher makes the
following observations on proceeding to sea from the northern part of
Labuan : —

As regards off-shore dangers, the patches to the northward rise suddenly.

Gordon Patches. — North, 12 miles from Bethune Head, is a patch of 4
fathoms, with patches of 5, 6, and 7 fathoms 1-^- mile to N.W. of it, and one
or two detached 7-fathom patches extending as far as 2J miles westward of
it and a mile eastward of it.

Having passed through the North channel, the safest course for vessels of
large draught is to bring the high land of Bethune Head to bear 8. by W.,

JAHAT SHOALS. 501

avoiding the dangers extending 3 miles off the Head, and steer N. by E.
until past Gordon Patches ; this would make a direct cotirse to the North,
nearly on the meridian of the high hills of Labuan, until reaching the lati-
tude of 5° 45' N., in 20 fathoms, when an easterly course may be shaped to
make Pulo Tega. This will avoid the Jahat, Winchester, and Nosong
patches, and lead to the channel southward of the Tega group, much more
reliable than the narrow opening between the Deluar and Tega Shoals,
unless good berth be given at 10 miles from the northern Tega Islet, which,
simply for making a passage, should be preferred.

Other duties, or inducements, may lead the navigator along the coast line,
off which safe anchorage will generally be found.

At 7 miles N.N.E. from the North extreme of Labuan, deep water (15 or
20 fathoms) will be gained. Hence a N.E. by E. course, in depths from 11
to 14 fathoms may be observed, and the Pme Point shoals avoided by
moderate attention to the bearings of the elevations marked on the chart.
As a general caution for distance from this coast line and limit of shoals, the
base of the trees on the beach should not be distinguished when off Pine
Point.

On the other hand, similar precaution is necessary not to render them in-
distinct (which the distances of 5 and 10 miles would vary), which will keep
the wary navigator within the limits of the Jahat dangers. Having touched
several of these dangers, we may observe that due caution, now their
existence is determined, is given by the lead, and the heave of the sea will
always warn an intelligent pilot of shoal water. Independent of this, when-
ever the sun is abaft either beam, or on the back of the observer, the bright
green hue of the shoals is distinctly visible.

The preceding remarks especially apply to vessels of great draught ; but
to small craft, not exceeding 14 or 15 ft., the inner passage within the shoals
may be taken at 1^ mile from the coast line. If proceeding easterly, keep
Lubedan Islet barely clear of Toulak Point ; or, if westerly, the S.E. extreme
of Tega and Nosong barely in contact, apparently opening as the vessel re-
cedes from Tega.

Shoals North of Sahat Point. — A 3-fathom patch lies N.N.W. 5 miles
from Sahat Point and 6 miles N.E. of Bethune Head. JVis Shoal lies 3 miles
N.E. of the preceding ; and abont a mile N. W. of Nis Shoal is a o-fathom
spot, and 2 miles S.E. of it a 2-fathom spot, South H mile from which, and
4^ miles N.N.E. of Sahat Point, is a 2 and 3 fathoms spot, apparently at the
end of a spit extending from the shore.

JAHAT SHOALS.— The Jahat (literally bad, or danger) Bank, was ex-
amined closely by Lieut. Gordon, and is thus described by him : — " Jahat
Bank, the principal and most dangerous reef, is of coral, and horse-shoe
form, bearing N.E. J N. from the North point of Labuan, and N. § E. from

502 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

Lubedan. It has 6 ft. water on its eastern, and only 3 ft. on the south-
western part ; there is deep water all round except on the North side, where
depths of 5 fathoms extend for a considerable distance, and there may be
less ; and there is a passage through the N.W. or centre part of it."

NOSC:i'G SHOALS.— N.E. f N. f miles from the Jahat Shoals, and West
from the South point of the largest Tega Island, is a coral reef, on which are
two small sand patches nearly level with the sea, or awash at high water.
From these patches, breaking with any ripple, the reef extends 1^ mile
N. by E., and the ground is very uneven on the S.W. The following warn-
ing lines circumscribe its dangers, and, as will be seen by the chart, afford
a very safe passage to the southward.

The North Tega or Burong Island, which is high and conspicuous, clear
of the great Tega Island, will lead to the southward ; Tangout Eock shut in
with Nosong eastern outline leads to the eastward ; and Turtle or the second
Tega Island open of the great Tega Island leads to the northward of these
shoals.

PULO TEGA GROUP, which is composed of three islands, Tega, Turtle,
and Burong (which derive their name from Tega, three), extend off Nosong
Point, but the best authorities, the natives, with whom friendly intercourse
prevailed, termed this point Tanjong Pulo Tega, a matter of importance
when communicating with the coast people of the Kimanis.

Between Tega, the largest island, and Nosong Point, the channel is quite
safe, and the chart itself affords suflB.cient warning for clearing the dangers
off the point. The wind prevailing off-shore prevents vessels from getting
near the S.E. spit.

The group stands on a coral bank, extending about 6 miles N.N.E. and
S.S.W., with a danger breadth of 3 miles. The largest island is safe-to, and
affords good anchorage under its centre in the southern bay ; but a shoal
with 2 and 2^ fathoms over it extends from its eastern extreme in a southerly
direction for the distance of a mile, close to which are 14 fathoms. A shoal
patch, with but 2 fathoms on its outer end, also lies W. by S. from the
western extreme of the island, the outer part of which is distant If mile ;
close to this shoal are 7 to 9 futhoms. Navigating- Lieutenant Eussell, of
H.M.S. Reynard, says that a coral rock, with 6 ft. water over it, lies about
half a mile to the westward of the S.E. point of the island, and about the
same distance from the shore.

Turtle and Burong Islands occupy a patch of 3 miles in extent, and the
channel is only passable in light boats.

The northern island received the name of Bird (Burong) from the quantity
of birds' deposit. It is high, and bold-to on its S.E. side, where good an-
chorage was found in 9 fathoms. The trees are useless.

KIMANIS BAY, so retained in compliment to the name given by Dal-
rymple, as well as to the commercial importance of the river of the same

KIMANIS BAY. 503

name, is an extensive bight, and lies immediately to the eastward of Nosong
Point, and free from danger.

Kapala River (or Kuala-panko^ native), in the S.W. bight of Kimanis Bay,
is safe, at high water, for trading craft drawing 12 ft., or it can be entered
at all times in smooth water by a draught of 4 ft. The Lama River is about
3 miles to the eastward of the Kapala. It is barred by rollers in bad weather,
but in smooth water may be entered at high water by boats drawing 5 ft.
At low water springs it probably would show dry, or possibly oflPer a very
narrow boat channel. The Membakut is an insignificant stream in the depth
of Kimanis Bay.

Kimanis River, the entrance to which is iu the eastern bend of Kimanis
Bay, has shoal water extending a considerable distance off its mouth, which,
at low tide, is entirely barred to the smallest boats. At high water, prahus
of some size, drawing probably 6 ft. water, enter the river by the southera
channel.

The Kimanis River forms the boundary of the territory ceded to Great
Britain in 1763, as well as the jurisdiction of the Sultan of Bruni, or Borneo
Proper ; our relations, therefore, with the people are likely to become more
important to commerce, as this river is one of the principal trading connec-
tions with the interior, as well as with the city of Bruni, to which it sends
seed-pearls, camphor, beeswax, vegetable wax, pepper, &c.

Siqjplies. — The people were found very difficult to deal with. Goats,
ducks, fowls, vegetables, fruit, pepper, beeswax, camphor, parrots, &c., were
brought down in quantity, and at very low prices. Watering is incon-
venient, as the natives must be relied on to fill and bring the casks to the
boats.

Watering Place. — At about 4 miles northward of the Kimanis Eiver will
be found a space of 20 acres of cleared land, fringed at the beach by a line
of casuarinas, and close to the small river Benoni to the northward. The
water will be found in a long canal immediately within the trees and parallel
to the beach. It is 200 yards long, 30 yards wide, and in general seasons
may afi'ord a mean depth of 5 ft. The water is excellent, and is probably
in the course of constant filtration to the sea.

Particular stress has been laid in describing this locality, as we found our-
selves frequently deceived in replenishing water at places where positive in-
formation of its existence was given.

The Benoni is probably connected with the above watering place, and
during the freshes, floods the neighbouring flat, before described as cleared
land. The Minani, about 3 miles northerly of the Benoni, is barred, but,
like the latter, can be entered by boats at high water.

To the northward of Kinindukan Bluff", the eastern horn of Kimanis Bay,
the coast dangers recommoiice, but are ^ sily avoided by due attention to the
soundings. The inland ranges rise suddenly, attaining heights of 1,500 anu

504 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

2,000 ft. The rivers are insignificant, a;nd do not offer any inducement for
trade or other purposes until reaching Gaya Bay.

Caution. — From a general intercourse with all the tribes, Malay, Bajow,
as well as the Dyak or mountain races, it was apparent that by kindness and
firmness they are disposed to be friendly. Timidity, or too much suspicion
on the part of visitors, naturally renders th.em cautious. But caution, even
under the British pendant, is imperative in all transactions with the Malay
race.

Pulo Lyang. — N. f "W. 3^ miles from Kinindukan Bluff, and 2 miles from
the nearest shore, lies the island Lyang of the chart (termed Llangliangan by
the Bajows and coasters). It is high, bold-to, and may be safely passed at
1 mile off by day or night, at which latter period it may be mistaken for a
vessel under sail.

GAYA GROUP and BAY. — Gaya is a lofty well- wooded island, 15 J miles
N.N.E. -2" E. of Lyang, and nearly connected with the main by an extensive
reef. To the southward of Gaya lie four small islets ; within these there is
safe anchorage.

Gaya Bay is formed by the northern point of Gaya Island and Tanjong
Kaetan, which is surmounted by a remarkable peak. To the northward of
Gaya, and parallel to the chord of the bay, are the islands Sapangar, Udar,
Udar Keckil, and Vdar Tega, which form the land-locked harbour of Sapangar
Bay, the most secure harbour on this coast.

Between Sapangar and Gaya the main channel is safe. There are also
channels between the other islands, but they are unsafe, by reason of the
liability to sudden calms, currents, and gusts. The outer navigation is safe,
but beware of making too free with the lee side of Sapangar, or the vessel
will be becalmed.

"Within the bays or port just mentioned are the rivers Inanam and Kdbatuan.
The Inanam is nearest to Pulo Gaya, and its entrance is difficult, even for
boats.

Kabatuan River is in sight of the eastern bend near the Udar Kechil, not
within the northern bight or inner bay, but may be at once distinguished,
when abreast of its entrance, by a yellow sandstone bluff on its northern, and
the abrupt angle of the coast on the southern, shore.

The main or outer bar appears to be composed of coral knolls, being a
continuation of the line of reef extending from the Inanam. There are gaps
in this through which, at high water, small craft might contrive to enter the
river. The mouth is nearly closed by a small sand delta, near the southern
edge of which the deepest water was found. Water, however, flows in small
drains within the delta, furnishing, by perseverance, about 10 gallons in a
quarter of an hour. A few miles within the river the water is fresh.

The Kabatuan is the principal trading river of this region. Taking into
consideration the security uf the harbour, as well as the facility of com-

MANGALUM ISLAND. 505

munication in all weathers, added to the character of its governor, this may-
be considered as the safest and, at present probably, best trading position on
the coast.

The deep bight northward of this river is beset with shoals, and possesses
nothing worthy of its exploration.

The outer islands are surrounded by deep water, uninhabited, and possess
no interest.

Tanjong Kaetan is the inner bluff, near the islands, surmounted by apeak
of the same name. The outer bluff has no name, it therefore was designated
Gaya Head. It is steep- to, and has no hidden dangers outside of it.

Menkabong Bluff and Eiver. — This bluff, about 5 miles N.E. of Gaya
Bluff, is a high crowned peninsula, with a sandy beach connecting it with
the river of Menkabong, which is about 2 miles to the S.W. The river can
be entered by boats or small traders drawing 7 to 8 ft. The inhabitants are
apparently friendly.

Directions. — Before proceeding farther along the coast, the observations of
Lieut. Gordon, R.N., on the outer navigation, will be recorded. "Vessels
working up must not stand too far off, as there are numerous reefs off the
East side of Mangalum, which island is "W.N.W. 24 miles from the N.W.
point of Gaya Island. Off here, at 7 miles from the shore, during the
strength of the N.E. monsoon, a strong current was found setting to the
north-eastward."

MANGALUM ISLAND, the S.W. point of which is in lat. 6° 10' 40" N.,
long. 116° 35' 20" E., is nearly round, 4 miles in circumference, and very low,
the highest part of the ground being only a few feet above the level of the
sea ; the tops of the trees are visible from a sloop's deck about 12 miles. It
is surrounded by a coral chain, broken only at the S.E. portion, where vessels
may enter and anchor close to the shore.

Wood for fuel and other purposes is abundant; the trees grow quite
straight, and there is great variety. Mangalum Island is, or was, a common
rendezvous for piratical proas.

Tides. — High water about 11 p.m., and low water at 6.45 a.m., the greatest
rise of tide being 5 ft. It may be remarked here that, as in other positions
on the North coast of Borneo, the night tides greatly exceed those by day,
but are yet regular ; that this apparent single tide at night may probably be
accounted for by the prevalence of strong sea breezes outside, which, failing
at sunset, permit the tide to resume its flow, and that two or three sets of
tidal observations at this position would upset this theory, as it did that — so
long contended for by successive navigators — at Tahiti.

Bank of Soundings. — H.M.S. Dwarf, in August, 1876, struck soundings
on a bank which lies between lat. 6° 22' N. and 6° 16' 30" N., long. 115° 51'
10" E. and 115° 46' 25". The vessel was steering S.W. | S., and the first

I. A. 3 T

506 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

cast obtained was 9A fathoms, bottom distinctly visible ; the shoalest cast was
6 fathoms, sand ; the general appearance of the bottom, coral with rocks in-
terspersed. From the North end of the bank Kaetan Peak bore S.E.,
North extreme of Mangalum Island S.W. by W., centre of Gay a Island
S.S.E. J E. From the South end of the bank Kaetan Peak bore S.E. by
E. 1^ E., North extreme of Mangalum Island S.W. by W. i W., centre of
Gaya Island S.E. The nearest part of the main land, Gaya Head, was thus
distant 20 miles.

Off-lying Shoal. — Commander George Robinson, of H.M.S. Rinaldo, also
reports, that during the passage from Labuan to Manila, when about 21
miles from the coast of Borneo, the leadsman suddenly got soundings in 7
fathoms, decreasing to 5 fathoms, the bottom being distinctly visible, and
discoloured water seea from the masthead to the northward. From thia
shoal water the West extreme of Gaya Island bore S. ^ E., and the moun-
tain of of Kini Balu S.E. by E. | E., the depth of 5 fathoms being in lat.
6°26'N., long. 115° 56' E.

Tawalan River. — From Menkabong BluJQF, which is belted by a reef, the
coast runs pretty straight about 4 miles, when the mouth of the Tawalan
throws off an extensive sandy flat. The entrance is guarded by a spit, dry
at low water, into which boats can enter, from the South, on the first quarter
ebb. Within is rather a large village of huts, inhabited solely, it is asserted,
by the Bajow fishermen.

Sulaman River. — Two miles beyond the Tawalan or Kawalan is the mouth
of the Sulaman. This appears to be a spacious river, running as far as the
eye could trace, in a broad sheet inland. The stream is rapid, and the depth
at low water about 6 ft. on the bar. Immediately within, it increases to 3
fathoms, the channel apparently deepening on the southern,,bank.

The Coast from hence to the South bluff, belonging to the Ambong range,
is tolerably bold-to, but totally void of interest. Between this bluff and the
entrance to the port of Ambong are several patches of rock, but mostly above
water. Vessels should not near to less than 8 fathoms, or they will lose the
wind.

AMBONG BAY. — The port of Ambong, approached from the northward,
may always be recognized by the peculiar projection of high peaks, as it
were, into the sea. On the East will be noticed the island of Usukan, show-
ing as a black bushy cone ; the mountains near it on the main, exhibiting at
the same time smooth, yellowish-green, rounded summits, their bases easterly,
falliug into apparently level land. In the depth will be seen the high ranges
skirting the bottom of the port of Ambong, and, if sufficiently clear, the blue
tinted mountain of Kini Balu (Chinese widow), 13,698 ft. in height, crown-
ing all in the distance. On the right the Ambong range, clothed with trees
from the base to its summit, will stand in the foreground sloping off gradually

AMBONG BAY. 507

towards tho Siilaman River, where the high ranges cease, excepting 10 or 15
miles in the interior.

A shoal patch, a quarter of a mile in extent, with 2^ to 3 fathoms water
over it, lies with its outer part bearing N. ^ W., distant 8 J cables from Cape
Ambong. At 3 cables north-eastward of this patch is another of nearly the
same extent, but having only 2 fathoms water over it in places. From a 2-
fathom spot near its outer end Cape Ambong bears S. by W. f W., distant
nearly a mile, and Perunjuk Point S.E. | E., distant over a mile.

Supplies. — Ambong, as a place of trade or for refreshments, affords bul-
locks, goats, fowls, eggs, &c., at very moderate prices. Beeswax, pepper,
camphor, birds' nests, and other Bornean produce, were freely brought down
to trade.

There are two positions for watering : one immediately to the northward
and opposite to Ambong Town ; the other, and the most convenient, if cleared
above its run beforehand, is at the beach north-eastward of the anchorage.
The quantity depends much on the season.

Directions. — The approach to the port of Ambong is so evident on the
chart that but few directions are needed. Nevertheless the navigator may
find himself hampered by wind or tide, and a few hints may ease his mind,
should he find himself on the verge of danger, and he will undoubtedly be
led there by too near an approach to Cape Ambong and the consequent
failure of wind under the high land.

If coming down from the northward, with Kini Balu visible, bring it to
bear S.E. and steer for it, which will lead to Ambong on the deepest line of
soundings.

There is no danger in approaching from the westward with a strong lead-
ing wind, or under steam, the actual danger being North of the cape, within
1 cable's length of the shore. But trust not the breeze, steer East, or make
good that course, at 2 cables' lengths from the cape, until gaining the depth
of 8 fathoms, and having the highest peak of the sea range of the western
peninsula over the centre of the sandy bay immediately beneath ; observing
that the first sight of the sand, clear of the rocks, gives warning of the off-
lying patches, and the two inner points in line, of having passed them.

A vessel may then steer for Perunjuk Point, and a berth be taken in 6
fathoms, about 2 cables S.E. of it, with the eastern house of Ambong Beach
open of Teluk Point.

Large vessels preferring greater security should adopt the outer course,
bearing in mind that Usukan open of Sak Point N.E. ^ N. barely clears the
patches off Cape Ambong at a good cable's length. This mark will be dis-
tinct at all hours, even towards dark. But when objects can be clearly seen
the yellow island, Jaga, brought immediately under the highest outer cone,
Mount Eoberton, also well seen at dawn or dusk, on the bearing of N.E. by

508 NORTH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

E. i^ E., may be preferred. On this bearing not less than 11 fathoms will be
found until the patches are passed, and Perunjuk Point bears S.E.

Ambong Beach, 3 miles distant, will then be clearly seen, and when ita
western extreme is about to shut in with Perunjuk Point, shape a course
immediately for the latter.

In fine weather, by a careful look-out from aloft, all dangers will be clearly
visible.

Sak Point. — Quitting Ambong bound north-easterly, Jaga, a very promi-
nent yellow sandstone clifiy island, may be shaved ; but within the depth of
13 fathoms northerly of Soundal Point there is reason to believe that dan-
gerous rocks near the surface are yet undiscovered ; one, awash at low tides,
and surrounded by a coral bank, lies W. f S. of Sak Point.

TJSTJKAN BAY, about 3 miles to the northward of Ambong Bay, ofi'ers
not only safe anchorage, but also an excellent watering-place in its bight,
and is, moreover, the only convenient spot for communicating with the
River Abai. Directions therefore requisite for anchoring and watering will
be given.

Passing the rock awash off Sak Point, the clearing marks for which are
Jaga Island open of Soundal Point, and the second head on the southern side
of Usukan Bay open, steer, or work for Slime Rock, which is safe to approach
to a cable's length on the S.W. side, and anchor in 10 fathoms, with the apex
of the rock bearing N.W. A vessel will then lie secure from swell, and 1^-
mile from the watering place in the depth of the bay.

The Slime Rock is connected with Usukan Island by a ridge under water.
A rock awash, with deep water within, but too near the land for safe naviga-
tion, lies off Usukan.

Water. — As the driblets of Ambong afford but little, and the detention
of more than two days may be involved, it is important to know that here,
in safe anchorage, and not incommoded by natives, watering can be expedi-
tiously accomplished.

Usukan Island, fronting the Abai River entrance, is a prominent feature
on the coast, standing out clear from the land, and almost a warning for
danger when not shut in. It is high, conical, and well clothed with timber,
and, indeed, at times of extreme low tides, may be a peninsula.

ABAI RIVER. — It is by this western channel, at the first quarter flood,
that boats should visit the Abai, as the entrance by the North, although
deeper, is troubled by rollers.

This was formerly the port of Abai, the principal rendezvous of the Illa-
non pirates, but since they have selected Tampassuk, as better protected by
the Sultan, the importance of Abai has fallen. The natives are peaceable,
and will furnish bullocks, vegetables, and refreshments, but not so reasonable
as at Ambong.

As Abai Port is open by ita eastern entrance to vessels drawing 9 ft. at

TAMPASSUK EIVEE. 509

low, and 12 to 14 ft. at high water, it is proper to caution those intending to
enter, that the bottom within is hard sand, and, unless they pass into the
river at once, where 3 and 4 fathoms, mud, wiU be found, they are endan-
gered by the swell and rollers, which would cause them to strike heavily and
bilge. They must not, therefore, calculate on anchoring in the outer harbour.
A Dangerous Patch, on which the sea breaks, lies North, IJ mile from
Usukan Island, and exhibits three cones, or pinnacles, at dead low water
springs. The marks for it are the points of Abai Port lapping, or the points
westerly of Usukan Bay and peak of Slime Eock in line. Abai Port open
of Usukan leads to the eastward. The channel within is safe, and to be pre-
fen-ed.

TAMPASSUK RIVER.— The beach from the Abai Eiver to the entrance
of the Tampassuk Eiver, a distance of about 3 miles, is nearly straight, sandy,
and from tbe very shelving nature of the whole extent of coast up to the
Ant Islands, constantly subject to heavy rollers, rendering landing dangerous,
if not impracticable. The 14-fathom line extends far to seaward, and al-
though only two patches have as yet been discovered by the sea breaking
over them, it is necessary to caution vessels, not having business at Tam-
passuk, to give the coast at least a distance, by the lead, of 14 fathoms, or
as before remarked, do not open Usukan Island of the land westerly.

The entrance to the Eiver Tampassuk is barred by a sand-bank, over
■which, at high water, there is probably 12 ft., but at low water springs, not
more than 6 ft.

Caution. — It is necessary at all times to be on the guard when near the
Illanon pirates, which frequent Tampassuk. They are all well armed, in-
clined to be insolent, and are so sudden in their movements, that they may
execute much mischief, even slaughter, and escape before they can be over-
taken or punished ; wherever they are fallen in with, there may not be proof
of piracy, but the utmost caution is requisite.

Three-Feet Rock.— At 4J miles S.W. by W. | W. from the outer Ant
Island, close to Kranga Bluff, lies a shoal, marked as a 3-ft. rock, but at
times awash, on which the sea breaks. The line of direction for it is, Usu-
kan Island clear of the western land beyond ; if the objects overlap, it wiU
lead clear outside.

This danger is surrounded by deep water, and shoals suddenly from 14 to
2 fathoms. In this region the 20-fathom limit should be preserved during
night.

Ant Islands lie off Kranga Bluff, at the extremity of the sandy bay, the
shore of which trends N.E. \ E. 9J miles from the mouth of the Tampassuk
Eiver. The bay, as before stated, terminates in a river which did not find a
place on former charts.

EISA ISLAND, or Black Peninsula. — N.E. ^ N. from a safe position off
the Ant Island dangers, will lead clear to a Black Peninsula, Bisa Island

510 NOETH-WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

distant 8i miles. The entire space within is thickly studded with dangers,
which about a mile to the north-eastward of Gasap Point extend a mile from
the shore. Landing is very difficult.

Mantanani Islands. — Eighteen miles to the northward of Usukan, and
about 12 miles W. by N. from Bisa Island, lies the group called Mantanani,
consisting of two low islands, and one tolerably high clump, termed Nob
Island, the latter covered almost entirely with a species of pisonia, the roots
of which embrace, and apparetly confine together, the loose structure of
Btones consisting of calcareous tufa, which appears to have been thrown up
(or, one would almost say deposited) in the most unaccountable manner.
Bird Island of the Pulo Tega group, is of precisely similar formation, but of
larger fragments.

There is no inducement, beyond wooding, for any vessels to touch at this
island. It is or was much frequented by the pirates.

OFF-LYING SHOALS. — There is reason to believe that many shoal patches
may exist in this neighbourhood, and in bringing a line of soundings from
the South Furious Shoals towards Labuan, H M.S. Rifleman came on a bank
at night, lying S.W. by W. 17 miles from Nob Island of the Mantanani
group.

SOUTH FURIOUS SHOALS, a group of coral patches lying a few miles
to the north-westward of the Mantanani Islands, were discovered in August,
1859, by H.M.S. Furious, and examined, in 1863, by H.M.S. Rifleman, which
vessel anchored upon a small coral bank barely half a mile in extent, N.N.W.
\ W. nearly 7 miles from the western extreme of the Mantanani Islands.
It is in lat. 6° 4 8 J' N., long. 116° 14|' E., and the least water upon it is 7
fathoms.

About 2 miles S.S. W. of the last-mentioned patch is another of 6 fathoms,
about a mile in extent ; westward and south-westward of which again, are
other and more extensive banks. N.N.W. about 5 miles from the western
extreme of the Mantanani Islands is a small patch of 8 fathoms ; and N. by
W. i W., 3J miles, is another spot of 10 fathoms.

NORTH FURIOUS SHOALS are three coral patches lying about 20 miles
northward of the Mantanani Islands. These were also examined in the
Rifleman, and from the vessel's position at anchor in 11 fathoms among them,
in lat. 7° 3' 19" N., long. 116° 18' 15" E., Nob Island, of the Mantanani
group, bore S. | E., and Banguey Peak E. by N. f N. These shoals extend
N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. nearly 2 miles, and the least water upon them is
7 fathoms. The soundings around about are very irregular.

Barton Rock appeared on former charts as awash in lat. 6° 52' N., long.
116° 19f' E., 9 J miles North of the Mantanani Islands. The Rifleman passed
over this position without finding the rock ; 28 fathoms being the least water
obtained, but circumstances did not allow of a further search.

WHITE ROCKS.— Bisa Island (page 509) forms the southern horn of a

BATOMANDE EOCKS— SAMPANMANGIO POINT. 511

great bay, having two large white islets on its chord, with two smaller in its
bight. A reef extending 2J miles in a N. by E. i E. direction, and nearly a
mile in breadth, surrounds the White Eocks, which are known only by the
native fishermen as Batu Putih.

The largest rock is in lat. 6° 42' N , long. 116° 35' 52" E. Within this
reef, guided by the chart, good anchorage will be found, varying from 8 to
12 fathoms.

At 4 J miles North from White Eock, 6 miles S. J W. from the outer
Batomande, and If mile W. by S. § S. from the nearest rocky bluff, Ganda
Head, lies a shoal. The whole of this region is unsafe. It should be avoided
by vessels drawing above 12 ft.

BATOMANDE ROCKS.— N. i E., 10| miles from White Eock (and visible
from each other), lie the two Batomande Eocks, so named in the old charts
by Dalrymple. They are one of the astronomical positions of this coast, and
are situated in lat. 6<^ 52' 42" N., long. 116° 36' 24" E.

These conspicuous rocks are of yellow sandstone, 40 ft. above the sea ;
they lie W. by N. J N., 2 miles from Tanjong Agal, with which they are
connected by a dangerous reef, leaving a single opening immediately within
the inner high rock.

TANJONG AGAL derives its appellation from a species of fucus known by
that name in commerce, and is collected on its rocky ledges by the fishermen
for sale, similar to birds' nests and trepang.

In sailing to the northward and eastward, a distance of 3 miles from the
shore should be observed, the safe course from 10 fathoms off the Batomande
to the Island of Kalampunian being N.E. | N., and the distance 14 miles.
The space within this line can only be safely traversed by boats.

An unimportant river, navigable for boats at high water, enters at the
sandy beach immediately in front of a white cliff, N.E. by E. | E., 3 miles
from Tanjong Agal. The next river is about 3 miles northerly from the
last, and appears to enter at the southern termination of a line of tall
casuarinas.

The bay is terminated by a black rocky promontory, which, from its being
composed of a blackish compact basalt, containing in its vesicles masses of
zeolite, received the appellation of Zeolite Bluff (ot Katiga Point). This bluff
is N.E. i E. 8 miles from the Batomande Eock, and S.S.W. 6^ miles from
Kalampunian, but it is not seen from the latter.

One stream flows out immediately to the northward of Zeolite Bluff, but
it is barred to boats.

No traces whatever of human beings were observed during several days'
examination of this angle of Borneo.

SAMPANMANGIO POINT is readily distinguished by the tall casuarinas
which rise from its grassy bluff, and by the Island of Kalampunian off its
extremity. It is the western point or cape of the great bay of Maludu ; but

512 NORTH- WEST COAST OF BORNEO.

ae Kalampunian is exterior to this, and is the better leading object, it will
deserve especial notice. These terms Sampanmangio and Kalampunian have
so long been known as beacons for this part of the world, that it would
scarcely be prudent to disturb them, whatever their meaning may imply.
They are known by these names since Dalrymple handed them to us.

Water. — It is probable, in favourable seasons, that water may be obtained
on the western bay, immediately within Sampanmangio Point, where the
sandy beach succeeds the cliff termination and the level or marshy ground
commences. This is also the favourite resort of deer, wild hogs, &c. Another
spot also promises, at the neck of the Peninsula Islet, where a fair leading
wind will be found at full or half tide on its southern side.

KALAMPUNIAN ISLAND lies 1 mile North of Sampanmangio Point,
and its summit is in lat. 7° 4' 17" N., long. 116° 44' 51" E., the nearest point
of which island bears N.E. | N., distant IH miles. It is a sandstone for-
mation, similar to the nearest bluff of Sampanmangio, and rises abruptly,
from a flat bed, to the height of 40 ft.

The Coast south-eastward for 7 miles from Kalampunian, has been ex-
amined, but not beyond. It is dangerous to approach within 2 miles, in
consequence of many off-lying coral patches.

MALUDU BAY. — The great Bay of Maludu was not examined by the
Samarang ; but the main channel North of the entrance, between Borneo
and the islands of Balambangan and Banguey, is free from dangers, except-
ing those expressly mentioned in connection with the reefs off their proper
shores.

CHAPTER XIII.

BALABAC STRAIT AND THE ISLANDS NORTH OF BORNEO,
INCLUDING PALAWAN.

The line of shoals which lie on the edge of the bank of soundings off the
N.W. coast of Palawan, and which form the S.E. limit of the Palawan Pas-
sage, will be described in a subsequent chapter, in connection with the other
dangers in that channel ; what follows is a description of the little visited
island of Palawan, and those that lie between it and the North extremity of
Borneo.

The following directions, from the North part of Borneo to the South part
of Palawan, are from those by Staff Commander J. W. Eeed, JR.N., and
have been compiled from the surveys of that officer whilst in command of
H.M. surveying vessel Rifleman in 1869.

Between the North part of Borneo and the South part of Palawan are
several small islands, of which Balambangan, Banguey, and Mallawalle,
lying a few miles from the Borneo coast, with many islets and rocks, form a
conspicuous group. Northward of this group is Balabac Strait, which,
connects the China and Sulu, or Mindoro, seas. The elevated island of
Balabac forms the northern limit of the strait, and between that island and
Palawan are many smaller ones, of which Mantangoule, Bancalan, Boug-
sook, Pandannan and others form a group separated from Balabac by North
Balabac Strait.

BALAMBANGAN ISLAND, 11 miles N.E. by N. from Sampanmangio
Point, the N.W. extreme of Borneo, presents in its soutliern portion a range
of hills, the highest of which is 440 ft. ; these elevations ai-e bounded on the
■western sea margin by abrupt cliffy outlines. The northern portion of the
island is flat, but thickly covered with high trees. A spur juts easterly at
nearly the mid axis of the island, dividing the two inlets known as the
North and South harbours ; and on the peninsula head forming the southern
I. A. 3 IT

514 BALABAO STRAIT.

horn of the last of these, observations were obtained by Sir Edward Belcher,
as tlie chief eastern meridian for his survey of the North coast of Borneo.

Both harbours afford good water, but the purest was found at the southern
one.

Some islets and rocks lie off the South end of the island, and a detached
coral patch, with 3 fathoms water over it, E. by S. f S., distant a mile from
it. Off the S.W. point of Balambangan is the small, round island oi Kalutan,
278 ft, high, which a vessel should not near under half a mile, on account of
a reef projectirg from the West side of it. The whole western coast of
Balambangan is fronted by reef, which projects, in places, three-quarters of
a mile.

Siagid Shoal, a detached coral bank, 1^ mile in length, with less than a
fathom water over some parts of it, lies 2 miles off the N.W. part part of the
island ; by keeping in depths not less than 14 or 13 fathoms, all these dan-
gers will be avoided.

Eeefs and shoals extend more than three-quarters of a mile from Siagut
Point, at the North end of the island, and a 3-fathom patch lies N.N.W.,
nearly \\ mile from it ; vessels should, therefore, give it a berth of a couple
of miles, or not come under 9 or 8 fathoms when rounding it.

The whole of the East coast of Balambangan is also fronted by coral; IJ
mile south-eastward of Siagut Point, separated from the shore reef by a
passage 6 fathoms deep, lies a coral shoal, more than half a mile in diameter,
having less than a fathom water over some parts of it ; and eastward of this
danger, in the channel between it and the extensive reef surrounding Tiga
Islet, is a small spot of Zh and another of 2^ fathoms, which should induce
great caution in the event of a vessel having occasion to pass through that
channel.

The outlines to the eastward of Observatory jHead, and along the entire
S.E. coast, will be found fringed with shoals, which are not easily discovered,
unless the sun be shining on the back of the observer. These shoals will
then exhibit a pale green tint, the deeper water being clearly defined by a
deep blue.

Tiga Islet, low and covered with trees, is surrounded by reefs, and must
be approached with caution.

To enter South Harhour requires close attention to the following directions,
as well as the customarj' warning of " lead and look out : " — First, the Cone,
the outer islet off Tanjong Kalutan, open of the islets off Observatory pe-
ninsula W.S.W., positively clears danger, and on that bearing, if the anchor
be let go at the moment the harbour heads open N.W., the vessel will be in
13 fathoms, suflG.ciently clear of danger. Water will be found at a green
patch of grassy land cleared from trees, about a quarter of a mile within
Haha Point.

The North Harlour, or Looc Barabok Barabok (a Bajow name), offers

BANGUEY I8LAND. 615

greater convenience for anchorage than the South harbour, and is of much
easier approach, the shoals being better defined.

To clear the shoals off Tanjong Saparoak, do not lose sight of the southern
point of Balambangan, or mask it by the islets off Observatory Point, on
which line the Half- Channel Patch lies, breaking at times, and having 3 feet
at low water.

The Banguey Island shore is safe ; work upon that coast until the trees
of Tanjong Battang present a decided outline, or the latter bears about
W. by N. Two reefs awash lie on the chord of the bay. Enter the bay on
a West course, halfway between the northern reef and Tanjong Battang,
looking out to avoid a 9-feet knoll, which is on the line of the western ex-
tremity of Pulo Kalankaman on with the trees of Tanjong Battang. A shoal
atvash, which bounds the bay entrance on the North, will then be noticed ;
it may be grazed, and a position taken up in 10 fathoms, having its centre
in line with the trees of Tanjong Battang. The South reef is also awash,
and behind it (with a safe channel out S. by E. grazing the reef) the Sama-
rang ancliored.

It was on the southern point of North Harbour that the English establish-
ment (finally deserted in 1803) was situated. Two streams flow into the sea,
one on each side of the ruins. The westernmost is to be preferred for water-
ing. Fuel may be obtained at any part of these islands, and is similar in
quality to the woods of Borneo grown on hard soil.

BANGUEY ISLAND — the nearest part 2J miles eastward of Balamban-
gan — is twice the size of that island ; it is somewhat rhomboidal in form,
about 13 miles in diameter, very irregular, and everywhere fringed with
reefs. The South coast is faced by small island, between which are deep-
water channels, and behind them large concealed spaces formerly, and even
now at times the rendezvous and hiding places for the Llanum pirate prows.
They form the northern limit, and are included in the description of Ban-
guey South channel. The West coast is included in the description of Ban-
guey West channel, and the North coast in that of Balabac Strait. Off-
lying for several miles the N.E. and East coasts of Banguey are numerous
islands, islets, and dangers, some of which will be included in the descrip-
tion of Banguey South channel, and others, farther on, under special de-
nominations.

There are several ranges, as also some detached hills on Banguey ; the
highest, Banguey Pealc, elevated 1,876 ft., is at the N.W. end of the island,
and shows up as a very conspicuous object for more than 30 miles around.

From the peak a long spur slopes in a south-westerly direction to the West
coast, and a range of hills extends to the eastward for a distance of 6 miles,
East Bill, at the extreme of the range, being elevated 1,076 ft. ; thence some
smaller ranges take a northerly direction, and terminate near the coast in
North Hill, 742 ft.>igh.

516 BALA BAG STRAIT.

Bangney West Channel, between Balambangan and Banguey, leading
from the China Sea into Balabac Strait, is not so free from danger as it
was supposed to be, a rock, with 9 ft. water over it, having been discovered
in the fairway, and also other dangers off the N.W. coast of Banguey,
during the progress of the survey of Balabac Strait and its vicinity, by Staff
Commander Eeed, in H.M.S. Rifleman.

Molleangan, an island 466 ft. high, and Little Molleangan, about one-third
its size, together, with some islets and numerous rocks, lie south-westward
of the S.W. point of Banguej', the outer rocks being nearly 4 miles off.
Dangers stretch off in westerly and north-westerly directions from Mollean-
gan to the distance of three-quarters of a mile, and others in a northerly
direction till they unite with those fronting the S.W. coast of Banguey.

Giving the West coast of Banguey a cautious berth of 1 mile on a N.E.
and S.W. line, and not decreasing the water to less than 19 fathoms, the
coast is safe. A close examination and survey of the coast failed to detect
any river. No fresh water was found, and the reefs were unsafe at low
water for light boats.

Manyangit Point, the N.W. extreme of Banguey, can be approached to
within a quarter of a mile. The N.W. coast terminates at Samarang Point,
6^ miles N.E. by E. from Manyangit Point, three-quarters of a mile W.N. W.
of which is the outer edge of a patch of dry coral, with a sand cay upon it,
60 that this part of Banguey must be neared with caution. Two small coral
shoals, the north-eastern one having 2^ fathoms water over it, and the other
3 fathoms, lie 1 J mile off shore, with Banguey Peak bearing S. by W. ^ AV.
The channel between these shoals and the shore dangers is clear, with depths
of 6 and 7 fathoms. Bifleman Pock, a small coral patch with 1^ to 2^ fa-
thoms water over it, and 5 and 6 fathoms close to, lies in the fairway between
the shoals just described and those extending south-eastward from Tiga
Islet, distant 1 J mile from the former, and nearly a mile from the latter.
From the centre of the patch Manyangit Point bears S.S.W., and the S.W.
end of Tiga Islet W. | N. Westward of the rock are 6 and 7 fathoms, but
eastward of it the soundings are shoaler and more irregular.

Passing through Banguey West channel, Banguey Peak bearing N.N.E.,
or a depth of 19 fathoms being preserved, will lead you clear to the west-
ward of Molleangan Islands. Manyangit Point to the northward of N. by
E. ^ E. will keep vessels clear of the whole of the dangers fronting the West
coast of Banguey.

Being to the northward of the Half Channel Patch, haul out a little to-
wards mid-channel, and steer a northerly course until about a mile past
Manyangit Point, when bring it to bear S. by W., and carefully keeping it
80, guarding against tides, pass between Eifleman Rock and Tiga Islet
Reels. Steering a N. by E. course, and having brought the centre of the
highest part of Tiga Islet on the port beam, the rock will be on the starboard

BANGUEY SOUTH CHANNEL. 517

beam, and •when past it a vessel of heavy draught may edge more to the
eastward, to avoid some 4-fathom patches, the nearest of which, lies half a
mile north-westward, of the rock.

BANGUEY SOUTH CHANNEL, through which vessels may pass from
the China Sea into the Sulu Sea, instead of through Balabac Strait, is some-
what intricate, and demands careful navigation, being for the greater part
of its length bounded by dangers. The western entrance, about IJ mile
wide, is between Outer Shoal, the westernmost of many dangers which ex-
tend off several miles from the N.W. part of Borneo, and the Molleangau
Islands off the S.W. part of Banguey. The southern limits of the channel
are formed by the dangers off the N.W. and northern parts of Borneo ; the
South channel dangers ; the reefs off the northern part of Mallawalle ; and
the northern edge of the reefs and shoals extending many miles eastward of
that island, and known as Mallawalle eastern dangers. The northern limits
comprise the islands which lie close to, and appear to be part of, the southern
ehore of Banguey ; the Carrington Reefs ; and by an extensive mass of reefs
known as the S.E. Banguey dangers.

Those dangers only will be described which lie outside the mass, limiting
the channels proper for vessels to proceed by; the dangers N.W. and North
of Borneo will be first described.

Outer Shoal forms the S.W. limit of Banguey South Channel ; it is some-
what square shaped, about a mile in extent, with from 1 to 3 fatlioms water
over the greater part of it, and a patch which dries near its eastern side.
The N.W. end is steep, having 13 fathoms close to, and this part forms the
southern boundary of the entrance to the channel ; from it the apex of Little
Molleangan bears N.E. f N. 2J miles ; and a small islet close to the N.W.
point of Borneo, having upon it a white patch which shows like a boat's sail,
bears S.E. f S. 5 miles.

A sand cay, on the East side of a coral ledge nearly awash, lies E. by S.
^ S., 2J miles from the N.E. extreme of Outer Shoal, and S.E. by S. south-
erly nearly 3.^ miles from Little Molleangan.

Between Outer Shoal and the sand cay, but nearer the latter, is a small
dangerous coral patch with only 1 fathom water upon it.

Another small sand cay, in the centre of a coral ledge, lies E. ^ N. 1^
mile from that before mentioned, and S.E. ^ E. 3f miles from Little Mol-
leangan. These cays are very useful as marking the limits of the channel
in the dii-ection of Borneo, and being composed of white sand (coral debris)
they are very conspicuous.

Nearly 3 miles E.N.E. from the sand cay, last mentioned, is a 2-fathom
coral patch, with a couple of ledges which dry a short distance southward of
it ; from this danger, which is the most northerly of the whole cluster,

518 BALABAC STRAIT.

Little Molleangan bears W. by N. § N., 5f miles, and the apex of Pata-
niinam N.N.W. ^ W., nearly 4 miles.

About 1^ miles E. ^ S. from the 2-fathom shoal is the outer of two coral
lecl"-es lying close together; from it Little Molleangan bears W. by N. I N.,
7^ miles, Patanunam apex N.W. i W. 5 miles, and the highest apex of
Mallawalle E. ^ N. 8 miles. A 3-fathom patch lies 3 cables E.S.E., and
a ledo-e of rocks a little over 1^ mile in the same direction from these
dan"-ers; this ledge, however, should properly be considered one of the
dangers off-lying the N.E, coast, and affecting the navigation of the channel
between Borneo and Mallawalle.

South Channel Dangers comprise five coral shoals which lie nearly mid-
way between the Banguey and Borneo coasts, limiting Banguey South
channel to the southward, and Mallawalle channel to the northward. It is
only necessary to consider these shoals as a dangerous group which the fol-
lowing bearings just clear : — On the North side the apex of Large Mollean-
gan W. I S. ; on the South side the same object W. -J N. ; on the West side
the South apex of Pagassan N. i E. ; and on the East side, the islet next the
Point of Banguey, East of Lampassan, N. J W.

Mallawalle Island, 7 miles distant E. by N. from the North extreme of
Borneo, is 4 miles long, and about the same distance broad. The island for
the most part consists of ranges of hills from 400 to 500 ft. high ; but one
range, towards the N.W. end, attains the elevation of 562 ft. N.W. islet
lies a short distance off the N.W. end ; and North Island, low and nearly
a mile in length, lies so close to and projects from the North part of the
main island in such a manner that it is not easily seen to be detached.

Mallawalle, including the adjoining islands and islets, is encircled by a
belt of reef which dries at low water ; and at the N.W. point of Malla-
walle it curves round and projects a narrow spit more than a mile to the
southward, forming a sort of small harbour, with 8 fathoms water in it,
where proas, or other small vessels, could easily find anchorage. At the
South end of Mallawalle is an inlet about a mile in depth.

Off the North side of Mallawalle, at its western end, the shore reef
extends about IJ mile, and encloses liorth Island, 1 mile long, N.N E., and
S.S.W. A 2-fathom coral patch lies N.N.W. I W., nearly 7 cables from North
Island, and 5 cables outside the reef encompassing it, and from this patch
three narrow strips of reef, dry at low water, extend more than 2 miles to
the eastward ; the westernmost strip is marked near the middle by a sand
cay. Between these dangers and the shore reef is a channel with depths of
10 or 11 fathoms, decreasing to 4 fathoms near the reefs on either side.

Half a mile north-eastward of the snout, px'ojecting from the shore reef at
the eastern part of Mallawalle, is a conspicuous sand cay, situated near the
West end of a detached reef which extends a mile eastward of the cay ; the
channel between this danger and the shore reef is blocked by a 2-fathom

BANQUET SOUTH CHANNEL. 519

coral shoal. About 1| miles N. by E. from the East end of Mallawalle, and
N.N.W., 1^ mile from the cay, is" a narrow strip of coral, half a mile in
length, which dries; close around it are 12 and 13 fathoms; and S.E. i E.,
IJ mile from the cay, is another small coral patch, with a spot upon it which
dries, and depths of 15 fathoms close to ; but these are, in fact, the western-
most of the Mallawalle eastern dangers.

Mallawalle Channel.— Dangers extend off 3 or 4 miles from the N.E.
coast of Borneo, and between these and Mallawalle is a safe channel 3 miles
broad; but a rock lies in the fairway just outside the southern part, which
is the limit of the li/'f email's survey in that direction, and, probably, many
other dangers will be discovered when the survey is extended.

Mallawalle Eastern Dangers comprise a large number of detached reefs
and shoals which extend 10 or 11 miles in directions E.N.E., East, and S.E.
from Mallawalle. It is only the northern edge of these dangers, bounding
the eastern part of Banguey South Channel to the southward, which require
description, for there can be no possible object to induce risking a vessel
amongst them, unless it is a gunboat in pursuit of pirates.

About 2f miles N.E. by E. from the detached cay off the eastern end of
Mallawalle Island, is a small coral strip which dries, but surrounded by
depths of 14 and 15 fathoms. One-third of a mile southward of this strip is
a shoal half a mile in extent, with less than a fathom water over it. A mass
of reefs and shoals, occupying a space IJ mile in extent, with 13 fathoms
close to on their northern side, lies a mile eastward of the coral strip, just
described; and E. by N. i N., Oi miles from the same danger is a shoal
half a mile in length, with only 7 ft. water on its northern end. This last
danger, being always covered, is not so readily seen as the others, and it is
important to bear this in mind, as the shoal occupies a prominent position,
bordering as it does on the deep water of Banguey South Channel.

The Straggler, a small coral islet, with trees 20 ft. high, is a very useful
object for guiding strangers into, and assisting them in navigating the
eastern part of Banguey^South Channel. From it the 7 ft. patch just de-
scribed lies N.W. by W. ^ W. nearly 1| miles, whilst westward of the islet
are several other dangers. The reef surrounding the islet extends 1^ mile
in an E. by N. ^ N. direction. About 1 J ^^^ S.E. from the East extreme
of the Straggler Eeef, and E. by S. f S. from the islet, is the outer edge of
a shoal having in some places less than 6 ft. water. This is the north-
eastern danger of the Mallawalle group, and half a mile eastward of it is
a 3^ fathoms coral patch. Other dangers of the group extend 7 miles further
to the southward, which was the limit of the Eiflemmi's survey in a S.E.
direction from Banguey.

Fairway Shoal, at the eastern entrance of South Banguey Channel, is a
coral shoal, from half to three-quarters of a mile in diameter, having a rock
awash near its southern part, and 1^ to 3 fathoms elsewhere ; its eouthern

520 BALABAC STRAIT.

extreme is N.E. i E., 2i miles from the Straggler, U mile N.N.E. ^ E.
from the eastern extreme of its reef, which limits the width of the channel
southward of the shoal ; the channel between it and S.E. Banguey dangers
is 3 miles wide. From the eastern part of this danger the highest apex of
Mallawalle bears W. by S. ^ S., distant 14 miles, and Banguey Peak
W.N W., westerly, distant 27 J miles.

Islands off the South Coast of Banguey. — The Molleangan Islands, which
form the north-western limit of Banguey South Channel, have already been
described (page 516) ; it is, however, proper to observe here that dangers
extend three-quarters of a mile westward and two-thirds of a mile eastward
of Little Molleangan ; but Molleangan, a high conspicuous island, which
points out the entrance of the channel from afar, is free from danger on
those sides a£tecting the navigation of this channel. Patanunan Island, three-
quarters of a mile eastward of the S.W. point of Banguey, is 428 ft. high,
serves as a useful object for bearings when passing through the channel.
Pagassan Island, 3 miles eastward of Patanunan, is fringed by a reef which
projects 3 cables from the southern part, and a cable farther off lies a rock
awash ; the island must thei-efore be neared cautiously. Three-quarters of
a mile eastward of Pagassan is Zampassan, the southern part of which ex-
tends thence 2^ miles in an E.N.E. direction. This island is also high, and
from its southern and eastern points some peculiar spits of coral, dry at low
water, project nearly three-quarters of a mile. The S.E. extreme of Banguey
is bordered by coral reefs, outside the edges of which, opposite the mouth of
an inlet, lie two rather large detached patches, the South end of the outer
one being a mile off.

Nearly 2i miles from the East end of Lampassan is the West end of Car-
ring ton Reefs, comprising several masses of coral, for the most part dry at low
water, extending 4 miles in an E. by N. direction ; they are a mile broad,
and on the North side, 4 cables from the edge of the mass, is a detached
spot of '2h fathoms. Between this last and the dangers extending from the
Banguey shore is a channel three-quarters of a mile wide, but which, as a
matter of ordinary navigation, no vessel would require to use.

The main channel lies between the Carrington Reefs and those off the
North part of Mallawalle, and by this channel only should strangers attempt
to proceed, taking care not to near the former dangers under a depth of 15
or 13 fathoms; the apex of Pagassan bearing W. ^ N. leads close to the
southward, and the East end of Lampassan bearing N. by W. \ W. leads
westward of a 4^-fathom patch lying 3 cables off the West end of them.

South-East Banguey Dangers comprise an extensive group of reefs and
shoals 10 miles in length, E. by N. h N., and W. by S. | S., and nearly 5
miles in breadth ; they lie south-eastward of Bancawan Island and reefs,
being separated from them by Bancawan Channel ; the southern part is 9
miles south-eastward, and the eastern part 14^ miles eastward of the S.E.

BANGUEY SOUTH CHANNEL. 521

extreme of Banguey. The West end of the group is defined by two small
isolated patches, dry at low water and steep-to ; the northern patch lies
almost half a mile, and the southern one somewhat more outside the body of
the reefs, with depths of 12 fathoms between, so that a sharp look-out is
essential when nearing them, and the same precaution will have to be ob-
served when passing through the channel, as the reefs forming the southern
edge of the mass are all steep-to. A space, about 2 miles in extent, at the
eastern part of these dangers, is studded by a number of coral patches, with
If to 3f fathoms water over them, and from the outer or eastern one the
apex of Latoan Island bears N.W. by W. f W., 9^ miles ; Banguey Peak
W. by N. i N., 24 miles ; and the apex of Mallawalle S.W. by W., 14
miles.

The passage between the S.E. Banguey dangers and Carrington Eeefs is
nearly 2 miles wide, and perfectly safe.

Bancaw&n Channel, separating Bancawan Eeefs from S.E. Banguey dan-
gers, is three-quarters of a mile wide at its narrowest part, near the middle.
The direction of the channel is nearly straight, and a N.E. -| E. course will
lead between the East end of Carrington Reefs and the West end of the
SJS. dangers, and through the fairway ; but it will be necessary in practice to
be guided more by a vigilant look-out for the reefs on each hand bounding
the channel than by compass bearings : with proper precautions there will
be no difficulty in taking a gun-vessel safely through.

DIRECTIONS FOR BANGUEY SOUTH CHANNEL.— Having rounded
Sampanmangio Point, stand over to the eastward for the Molleangan Islands,
bringing their apexes in line as they are approached. When arrived within
2 or 3 miles of them open Little Molleangan left of the apex of the larger
island, and steer East into the channel ; and, in order to keep well clear of
Outer Shoal, avoid opening the whole of Patanunan (a black round looking
island when viewed from near the entrance of the channel) right of Mollean-
gan, before the apex of Little Molleangan is brought to bear N.N. E. Having
passed Little Molleangan steer up more to the north-eastward, keeping a
mile or so off Molleangan and Pantanunan ; and, being past those islands,
bring the apex of the latter to bear W. ^ S. and steer the opposite course
through the fairway between the South Channel dangers and the rock off
the South end of Pagassan ; Molleangan apex bearing W. by S. well clears
the former, and Patanunan apex bearing W. by S. { S. clears the latter
danger.

Continue to steer an E. -|- N. course, by preserving the opposite bearing of
Patanunan apex, until the summit of the hill at the southern part of Pa-
o-assan bears W. i N., when steer East for a mile or so, until the bearing
changes to W. ^ N., northerly ; when by keeping it so, and steering the
opposite course, the dangers off the North part of Mallawalle will be avoided.

I. A. 3 X

522 BALABAC STRAIT,

When the highest hill of Mallawalle is brought to bear S.W. ^ S., edge
away a little to the southward— to give a wider berth to the S.E. Banguey
dangers— until the same peak bears W.S.W., when the opposite course
E.N.E. carefully preserving the back bearing, will lead between the outer
part of the S.E. Banguey dangers and Fairway Shoal, and out of the channel
into the Sulu Sea.

These directions will serve very usefully to assist in the safe guidance of
vessels, but attention to them must be supplemented by a most vigilant and
careful look-out from aloft. The best time for proceeding through from the
westward is of course afternoon, with the sun astern, when there is seldom
much difficulty in making out the various dangers as the vessel advances,
which it is almost impossible to do with a glaring sun ahead.

BALABAC STRAIT, leading from the China Sea into the Mindoro or
Sulu Sea, is bounded on the South by the islands of Balambangan and Ban-
guey, and on the North by the island of Balabac. The greater part of the
body of the strait is occupied by coral dangers, far too numerous to admit
of detailed description. These dangers are delineated upon the chart, the
result of the Rifllemanh survey in 1869.

The high peak of Balabac Island is the most conspicuous object in the
vicinity of the strait, and visible from all parts of it. Banguey and Balabac
Peaks lie N. i E. and S. ^ W. of each other, 37^ miles apart, and as most
of the dangers and channels are to the eastward, and therefore at right
angles to that line, these peaks are of the first importance for determining
the position of vessels when navigating this dangerous strait.

BALABAC ISLAND, lying oflP the S.W. extremity of Palawan Island, and
about 26 miles northward of Balambangan, is nearly 20 miles in extent
North and South, and 9 miles East and West. On the southern half of the
island are several ranges of high cliflPs, exhibiting great variety in the out-
line of their summits ; only two, however, are of sufficient importance to
require particular description. Steep-fall Range, the first of these, is about
2 miles from Cape Melvill, the South point of the island ; the summits of
the several hills composing it form together a semicircular line, convex to
seaward, and being of nearly the same elevation, 850 ft., present a some-
what table-like appearance, whence the sides fall in a very precipitous
manner ; hence the name. These features will enable strangers to readily
recognise this range, without confounding it with the small range at the
S.W. extreme of the island, the highest part of which is, moreover, but
330 ft. From Steep-fall Range, other hills, less elevated, extend in a north-
westerly direction nearly as far as the West extreme of the island ; and
northward from the same range other ranges, varying in height from 1,200
to 1,300 ft., extend to Dalawan Bay; these last are separated from the still
higher ranges of Balabac Peak by a valley which runs in a W.N. W. direction

BALABAC ISLAND. 523

across the island. Bahbac Peak, the other object calling for special remark,
is a sharp hill near the eastern shore, 5 miles northward of Steep-fall Eange,
and obtains the greatest elevation on the island, 1,900 ft. Eastward of the
peak some ranges slope down to Dalawan Bay and the shore northward of
it ; and northward of these, separated from them by a valley, other ranges
extend along the coast as far as Calandorang Bay ; westward of the peak is
a range of six or seven sharply marked apexes, running in a N. by E. direc-
tion to the inner part of the same bay, and westward of this last are several
other ranges, inferior in altitude, which stretch over nearly as far as the
West extreme of the island, joining those which extend from Steep-fall
Eange. On the northern part of the island, joining those which extend
from Steep-fall Eange. On the northern part of the island, beyond Calan-
dorang Bay, are several detached hills, the highest, 750 ft., being situated
near the coast, 1^ mile northward of the bay.

The West Coast of Balahac cannot be closely approached on account of
numerous reefs and shoals which extend several miles oflf. These dangers
extend over many miles, and are of two kinds : the first consists of large
reefs, most of which begin to uncover at the first of the ebb, the whole of
them being dry at low water ; whilst the second comprises shoals and shoal
banks, none having less than 10 ft. water over them at low tides ; these lie
outside the reefs which dry, some of them being 7 miles from the shore.
Should closer information be required, it will be obtained more readily from
the chart than from a written description.

The following is a very brief description of the dangers lying W. and
S.W. of Balabac :—

The South extreme of Gnat Reef, on which H.M. gunboat of that name
was wrecked, lies 2 miles N.W. from the S.W. extreme of Balabac ; thence
the reef extends 1^ mile to the northward. There is a channel round it with
many dangers. N.W., 3 miles from the South end of Gnat Eeef, is the
South extremity of Balahac Great Reefs, which thence extend 8 miles to the
northward, and dry to the distance of from 3 to 5 miles from the shore.
S. W. Patches, a line of shallow water from 3J to 9 fathoms, lies 2 miles
South of the South extreme of Gnat Eeef and Balabac Great Eeefs. The
Western Shoals, and numerous detached patches of 2 J to 5 fathoms, extend to
a distance of about 3 J miles West from the western side of Balabac Great
Eeefs. Ada Reef, dry at low water, lies oil' the N.W. side of Balabac Island.
It is 2i miles long E.N.E. and W.S W., three quarters of a mile broad at
its West extreme, and lies a mile outside the shore reef just mentioned, the
channel between being full of shoals and patches of reef. From the N.W.
extreme of this, the outermost danger off the southern part of Blind Har-
bour, Balabac Peak bears S.E. by E., 11| miles, and the apex of the hill
over the northern point of Blind Harbour N.E. by E. i E. 6i miles.

Ada Eeef is connected by a coral bank, having less than 3 fathoms water.

524 BALABAC STEAIT.

witli the dangers of Blind Harbour, and those extending from the shore
thence to Cape Disaster.

North- West Shoal, the last of the Balabac dangers to be noticed, lies about
8 miles north-eastward of Ada Reef, 2 miles distant from the coast north-
ward of Blind Harbour ; it is 2^ miles long N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.,
and half a mile broad. This is a dangerous shoal, having as little as If
fathom over some parts, and only 2^ to 3 fathoms over the greater part of
its extent : to avoid this danger, the S.W. end of Balabac Peak, must not be
brought southward of S.E. f S., nor "West point South of S. J E. ; and Cape
Disaster, the North point of the island, if not brought to the northward of
E. I N., will clear the N.E. end.

When standing towards the dangers off-lying the West coast of Balabac
in the afternoon, when the sun will be astern, the outer shoals, and also the
reefs inside of them, will generally be seen a long way off, but always in
sufficient time to avoid them ; but if the sun is ahead, more especially if it is
low, the outer shoals are sometimes difficult to make out until close to them.
The soundings are so variable and uncertain, under depths of 30 fathoms, as
to afford little assistance to seamen, and in the daytime a good look-out is of
the first importance ; but at night the soundings must be carefully attended
to if near these dangers, and vessels should not decrease their depths under
40 fathoms off the S.W. and West parts of the island, nor under 50 fathoma
off the N.W. part.

Blind Harbour is an opening nearly 2 miles wide on the N.W. side of
Balabac, having the appearance of a capacious bay, being 4 J miles in extent.
It is, however, blocked up with coral, except near the points at the entrance,
where there is a narrow channel between the reefs, with 9 and 10 fathoms
water.

From Blind Harbour to Cape Disaster, the North extreme of Balabac, and
round the northern extremity of the island, the coast is low, with two small
cliffy hiUs a little inland. It is fronted by a reef, which at low water driea
from 4 to 5 cables, and off Cape Disaster 7 cables from the shore. Shoal
water extends some short distance outside the reef, and near Blind Harbour
stretches off more than a mUe from the coast.

The Eastern side of Balalac Islayid is tolerably bold, with deep water close
to the shore. From Cape Melville, the South point of the island, the coast
to Dalawan Bay trends to the N.E., and is steep-to, except at the cape and
the N.E. point of Clarendon Bay, a small inlet near it, off which reefs, dry
at low water, extend 2 cables.

The coast northward of Dalawan Bay trends North a little westerly j it is
fringed by a reef, which extends from 1 to 1^ cable from the shore, and has
three small inlets, the southernmost of which is called Calandorang.

From Candaraman, the northernmost inlet, the coast takes a more westerly

JBALABAC ISLAND. 525

direction for 2| miles to Encampment Head, a small bushy isthmus nearly a
mile to the eastward of Cape Disaster.

From Cape Melvill, the South point of the island, reefs extend off half a
mile, and from the S. W. part of the island nearly a mile : some distance
outside the shore reefs the ground is foul, with detached shoal spots here
and there ; from the outermost of these, a 3-fathom patch, the right extreme
of the southern part of the island bears N.E. by E. ^ E., IJ miles, and the
S.W. extreme N. by \V. J W. 1^ mile : vessels should not come nearer than

2 miles to the coast between Cape Melvill and the S. W. point of Balabac.

Clarendon Bay is a small inlet, opening into the coast in a north-westerly
direction, with depths of 3^ to 5 fathoms, five cables inside the points; from
the southern point the shore reef extends off a very short distance, but from
the northern point it projects more than 2 cables in a S.E. direction, narrow-
ing the width at the entrance to barely three-quarters of a cable. Clarendon
Bay, after being surveyed by Mr. Doorly, navigating midshipman of H.M.S.
Rijleman, was used as a place of shelter from S.W. gales by H.M. gun-vessel
Avon, when engaged in recovering guns and stores from the wreck of the
Gnat.

Balawan Bay, convenient for wooding and watering, and affording good
shelter with south-westerly winds, has its entrance 6| miles from the South
point of Balabac Island, with Balabac Peak bearing N.AV. 2|^ miles. When
off Dalawan Bay, its locality wiU be readily recognised by the low land run-
ning in a W-N-W. direction from the beach across the island, separating
the high land about Balabac Peak from the Transept, a smooth table-topped
hill on the South side of the bay.

The bay is about a mile wide from shore to shore at the entrance, and
about three-quarters of a mile deep. Eeefs, which dry at low water, project
from both points at the entrance, contracting the channel to a little less than
7 cables ; that on the northern side has a rock at its extremity called Buoy
Eock, lying South 2 cables from the shore, but rocky ground extends 3^
cables beyond this in a north-easterly direction, having in some parts only

3 fathoms water, with 5 and 7 fathoms close to the edge.

There is a white rock on the shore in the south-western corner of the bay
1 i cable to the northward of which is the entrance of the river. A reef
of rocks one cable in extent, showing only at low water springs, lies to the
eastward of the entrance of the river, upwards of 2 cables from the
beach.

The shores of the bay are densely wooded, the entrance on either side
being fronted with mangrove. The best anchorage is about the centre of the
bay in 9 fathoms, mud, nearly half a mile from the beach. South-eastward
about a quarter of a mile from the White Eock, where the mangrove joins
the foot of the hills in Dalawan Bay, is a rivulet oi good water ; there are also
one or two good streams on the northern shore of the bay, but neither of

526 BALABAC STEATT.

them was found so eligible for the purpose of watering as the river ; in the
dry season the water must be obtained some distance up to be good. The
river is navigable for boats on ordinary occasions about a mile, where there
are a few houses and some cultivated ground occupied by Malays, who by
turns, as opportunities offer, act the parts of pirates or husbandmen. Their
character is decidedly questionable, and merchant boats' crews should be on
their guard.

It is high water, full and change, at Dalawan Bay at IP ; and the rise of
tide is 5 ft.

Calandorang Bay, or Puerto del Prmcipe Alfonso, 6 miles northward of
Dalawan Bay, is a Spanish settlement, established a few years ago for the
purpose of developing the trade of Palawan and other neighbouring islands ;
it has not yet succeeded, however, in making any progress, for there is abso-
lutely no trade whatever. It is a naval establishment. No supplies of any
kind are to be procured ; bullocks, and other necessaries for the use of the
garrison, being sent periodically from Manila.

The bay is 6 cables wide at its entrance, and 1^ mile deep. The South
point of the entrance is formed by a hill, 110 ft. high, named Almirante
Gill, upon which is a lighthouse ; the North point is mangrove, with hills a
a short distance inside of it : coral and shoal water extend nearly a cable off
both points.

The light on Almirante Gill is elevated 268 ft. above the mean level of the
sea, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 10 miles. The
tower is square, white with a red base, and surmounted by a red lantern.

On the South shore, a cable or so inside the lighthouse, is a coal store
and small jetty, and further on two bluffs, or heads, project from the higher
ranges on to the beach ; from the first of these coral, dry at low water, and
shoal soundings, extend about a cable, and from the last a coral ledge
stretches out rather more than half that distance. Beyond the bluffs, about
half a mile from the entrance, is a landing pier, the town being built on the
shore of the bay westward of it, and terminating at a third bluff, or spur,
protruding from the high range of hills behind. The North shore of the
bay is all mangrove ; from two points, about half a mile from the entrance,
coral, dry at low water, extends off about 1^ cable ; and from a point oppo-
site the town, a coral reef, with some rocks above water upon it, extends off
almost as far.

A 3 -fathom patch, with 3f fathoms around it, lies off the first bluff west-
ward of the coal store ; from it the lighthouse bears E. :|^ S., and the block-
house S.W. 1 S.

The anchorage in the bay is good, the bottom being of mud, and during the
S.W. monsoon it is perfectly sheltered and secure ; a convenient position for
a moderate sized ship to anchor in is just outside a line between the light-
house and the dry rocks, with the former bearing E. by S. ^ S., the bluff

NORTH AND N.E. COASTS OF BANGUEY. 527

westward of the town S.W. i W., and the block-house fort, a white octa-
gonal-shaped building, S.W. by S. : small vessels can go farther in on the
line of bearing of the bluff, just mentioned, and anchor where most con-
venient. The N.E. monsoon occasionally blows into the bay with consider-
able force, sending in also a nasty chop of a sea, so that it is better, at that
season, to anchor more over towards the North shore, taking care to have
plenty of room for veering. At Calandorang Bay it is high water, full and
change, at IP ; springs rise 6 ft.

A steamer will find no difiiculty whatever in entering Calandorang Bay
guided by the chart. It is, however, very difficult and dangerous of access
for sailing vessels, on account of the deep water outside, and of the strono-
tides and currents which sweep along the East coast of Balabac, in the
strength of the monaoon. A sailing vessel bound for that port should be
provided with a heavy kedge, and stout hemp, or coir, cable, to enable her to
bring up in deep water, in case of missing the port, which she should not
attempt to make without a commanding breeze. About 3 or 4 cables off the
port the depths are 35 and 40 fathoms, and a mile off they are over 100
fathoms. A vessel coming from the southward should make for Dalawan
Bay, if the wind should threaten to fail her, and await there a more favour-
able opportunity for entering Calandorang Bay ; for if the wind should die
away when she was a mile or so off the port she would be swept in the most
helpless manner towards the numerous dangers to the northward : with a
commanding breeze, however, no difficulty will be found in enterino- as
directed for steam-vessels.

It must be borne in mind that, on account of the very deep water along
the East coast of Balabac, sailing vessels bound either for Dalawan or
Calandorang Bays must hug the shore, which is pretty bold, the fringe of
reef extending but a very short distance from it.

NORTH AND N.E. COASTS OF BANGUEY.— Between Samarang Point
(page 516) and the North point of Banguey the coast line falls back into a
couple of bays. North Guliuan, an islet on the western part of a reef three-
quarters of a mile in extent, lies nearly a mile off the North point of
Banguey, and 5^ miles E. by N. f N. from the sand cay off Samarang
Point. In this space, westward of Guhuan, there are no offlying dangers.

Off-lying Dangers are numerous, and extend a long way from the N.E.
part of Banguey.

A shoal bank extends from the reef surrounding North Guhuan in an E. f
S. direction, \\ miles ; from the middle of it a tongue projects half a mile to
the northward, having a patch of dry reef near the centre, and a spot of 3
fathoms; E. by N., a quarter of a mile from the extreme. Two sand cays,
surrounded by reefs, lie at the eastern end of the bank ; and between this
part of it and the shore dangers, which stretch off about three-quarters of a
mile, is a narrow run, with 4 and 5 fathoms depths of water on it.

528 BALABAC STRAIT.

Louisa Shoal, coral, with U to 3 fathoms water over it, 8 cables in extent
N.W. and S.E., and 4 cables broad, lies half a mile outside the bank, just
described,- from its North extreme North Guhuan bears S. by W. i W.,
distant U mile, and from its West extreme Samarang Point S.W. by W. \
W. nearly 6 miles. Nanyangit and Samarang Points in line, bearing S.W.
^ W., lead a good half mile outside this danger.

Maggie Reef, a strip of coral a quarter of a mile long, dry at low water, lies
on the northern part of a coral shoal, about 3 miles in circumference, situated
E. by N. a little over 2| miles from Louisa Shoal, and having upon it several
rocks, just below water. North Guhuan, bearing S.W. by W., will lead
half a mile outside, or N.W. of it; East Guhuan bearing S.S.E. ^ E. leads
well clear to the eastward.

Between Louisa and Maggie Shoals are several 4^ and 5 fathom patches,
and, outside the line of those dangers, two spots of 3J fathoms, one bearing
N.E. 3 N. nearly 3 miles, and the other N.E. | E. nearly 3J miles, from
North G-uhuan. A small spot of 5i fathoms lies on the edge of the bank,
and close to the northward of it are 12 fathoms : from this spot North
Guhuan bears S.W, ^ S. ; the right extreme of South Mangsee island N.
by E. i E. ; and East Guhuan S.S.E. i E.

East Guhuan, an islet about the same size as North Guhuan, stands on the
West side of a coral shoal which extends nearly half a mile north-westward,
3 cables north-eastward, and nearly a mile South and south-eastward from
it. About a mile N.N. W. of East Guhuan, a; little to the eastward of a line
between it and Maggie Shoal, is a 9 ft. patch, about 3 cables in extent.

Bangmy Outer N.E. Bangers are a cluster of reefs lying to the north-
eastward of those just described, and divided from them by a clear channel
three-quarters of a mile to IJ mile wide, with depths of 7 to 10 fathoms;
they extend 3J miles in a N.W. h W. and opposite direction, and a little
over a mile in a direction at right angles to their length. A large reef occu-
pies the centre of the mass, and dries within three-fourths of a mile of each
end ; upon the N.E. extreme of the reef is a sand cay, which is very useful
for pointing out the locality of these dangers, they being 6 miles distant
from the shore. Shoal water stretches off nearly a mile eastward of the cay,
which must not be neared anywhere to within a mile, except at the West
side, where the reef extends off only a short distance. Close to the outside
edge of these shoals are 11 or 12 fathoms.

The East coast of Banguey is fronted by dapgers which extend off several
miles ; they consist, for the most part, of extensive reefs, dry at low water,
separated from each other by narrow channels — impracticable for navigation ;
it is only the outer ones that require detailed description.

Rahamkamman is the name of a small islet, 2 miles S.E. of East Guhuanl
It lies towards the N.W. end of a coral shoal about a mile in extent, the
part surrounding the islet drying at low water. South-westward of this

BALABAC STRAIT. 529

shoal, separated from it by a 5J-fathom channel, about half a mile wide, is
another, about three times as large, having three islets, a sand cay, and
several extensive patches of reef. The S.E. islet is named Balundangan, a
mile S.W. of which is an island about IJ mile long, and rather more than
half a mile off the coast.

May Williams Shoal, 9 cables long N.W. and S.E., and 4 cables broad,
having from 2J to 3 fathoms water over it, lies half a mile south-eastward of
Kahamkamman Shoal ; from its S.E. end the islet bears N.W. by N.,
distant 2 miles, and the apex of Latoan S.S.W. ^ W., distant 3^ miles ;
around the shoal are depths of 7 to 9 fathoms.

Sampson Patches, three in number, have 3^ to 5 fathoms water on them ;
from the outer patch, Kahamkamman bears W. | N., distant 3 miles, and
the apex of Latoan S.W. ^ S., nearly 5f miles.

Latoan and Bancawan Inlands and Reefs comprise four or five islands,
several extensive reefs, and many small detached dangers, the whole forming
a group 7 miles long North and South, and b\ miles wide. Only boats can
pass between the various reefs composing the group ; but, between them and
the reef fronting the Banguey shore, there is a deep water channel, through
which it is possible for a gun-boat to pass, although, near the West point of
Bancawan, it is narrowed to little more than a cable by a small reef in the
middle.

Latoan is an oval-shaped island, a mile long N.W. and S.E., the trees
upon it rising to a kind of low apex near the centre. Bancawan, \^ mile
south-west n-ard of Latoan, is an irregular shaped flat island, 2\ miles long
North and South, and If mile broad. Outer Latoan Patch is the name given
to the eastern one of three isolated patches which lie close to the N.E. edge
of the large reef surrounding Latoan. It is about 2 miles in circumference,
with 1 to 3 fathoms water over most parts of it ; and a rock, a few feet under
water, lies near its eastern margin. From this last, Kah.amkamman bears
N.W. i N., distant 4^ miles, and Latoan apex S.W. by W. f W., distant 3f
miles. East Banguey Patches are two small coral shoals, lying three-quarters
of a mile and a mile, respectively, outside the Bancawan Eeefs ; the inner
one has as little as 2 fathoms upon it, but the outer one not less than 2|-
fathoms. From the latter, Latoan apex bears W.N.W. 3f miles, and the
left extreme of the round island, south-eastward of Bancawan, S.W. by
W. i W., 4! miles.

Mangsee Great Reef, which forms the northern limit of the main channel
through Balabac Strait, lies 4^ miles northward of North Guhuan, and a
little over 3 miles, in the same direction, from the Louisa Shoal ; its distance
from the 10-fathom line at the edge of the shore bank is 1^ mile. The reef
is 5 miles long E. by N. and W. by S., and 2f miles broad. It is nearly
everywhere covered at high water, but a sand cay upon the eastern part is

I. A. 3 Y

530 BALABAC STRAIT.

generally visible from aloft when near the edge. At low water the reef pre-
sents a vast expanse of coral and sand, with lagoons here and there.

From the West end of the reef shoal water, under 10 fathoms, extends
about 2 miles in a W.S.W. direction. The soundings over this part are
very irre"-ular, and, although the least depth discovered was 4 fathoms, the
locality should be avoided. From the outer part of this shoal water Banguey
Peak bears S.S.W. i W., and the apex of North Mangsee N.E. by E. ^ E.

The MAIN CHANNEL through Balabac Strait is limited to the southward
by the 10-fathom line defining the edge of the shoal bank which extends
from the shore, encompassing the various dangers and shoal patches lying off
the North and N.E. coasts of Banguey ; and it is limited to the northward
by Mangsee Great Eeef, the southern part of which is li mile distant from
the edge of the bank on the Banguey side. The depths in the channel are
not regular, varying from 14 to 23 fathoms, the deepest water being rather
nearer the reef than the middle of the channel.

Vessels coming from the south-westward, and bound through Balabac
Strait in the N.E. monsoon, will find the Main Channel the most convenient
to proceed by, attending to the following: — When making for the entrance
of the strait, and nearing the N.W. part of Balambangan, care must be had
not to bring Point Buttun to the westward of S.W. 5 S., nor to come into
less than 14 or 13 fathoms, in order to keep clear of the dangers extending
from the shore, and of the Siagut Shoal. Siagut Point, the North point of
the island, must not be approached nearer than 2 miles, nor under a depth
of 8 fathoms. North Hill, on the North part of Banguey, if not brought
to the eastward of E. by S. ^ S., will lead a good half mile outside all the
dangers ofi' Siagut Point, as also those extending North of Tiga Islet, which
last should not be neared to a less distance than a mile, or under a depth of

8 or 7 fathoms. From Tiga Islet the Banguey coast may be approached to

9 or 8 fathoms, until North G-uhuan is brought to bear about S.S.E., when
it will be well, especially for large ships, not to come inside the 10-fathom
edge of the bank extending from the Banguey shore, as the sudden variations
of the soundings on the bank are very alarming, and no less perplexing, to
strangers. The light green colour of the water over the Great Mangsee
Eeef will, even at high tides, always enable a good look-out aloft to make
out the edge sufficiently far off to permit of a vessel being guided past it at
a safe distance ; and when over on the South side of the channel, the first
cast of 10 fathoms, or under, will denote the edge of the bank. Having
brought the apex of North Mangsee to bear westward of North, vessels may
stand on to the bank if desirable to do so, but seamen must beware of a
scant wind, or lee tide, sagging them to leeward towards Banguey Outer
N.E. reefs, and be careful to avoid bringing North Hill anything to the
westward of S.W. by W. ^ W. until the West extreme of North Mangsee
is shut in behind South Mangeee.

BALABAC STRAIT. 531

Coming from the Sulu Sea, the Mangsee Islands should be made bearing
about West, when a course about W.S.W. will lead up to the entrance of
the channel. If, however, the channel should be made more from the
southward, and, as the apex of North Mangsee begins to shut in behind the
southern island, 14 or 13 fathoms may be had, a vessel will be over towards
Banguey Outer N.E. reefs, and care must be taken to bring North Hill of
Banguey to the southward of S.W. by W. i W. before proceeding further
to the westward.

Mangsee Danger Bank* includes within its limits the Mangsee and Sa-
lingsingan Idcuids, together with the extensive dangers adjacent to them, and
Loxdale and Jessie Shoals, besides many other smaller ones. Its length
E. by S. i S. and W. by N. ^ N. is 10 miles, and its breadth 4^ miles at the
eastern end, tapering to a point at the opposite extreme.

South Mangsee Island is somewhat round shaped, about half a mile in dia-
meter ; it stands upon a patch of reef which extends fro.n it a mile eastward,
6 cables westward, half a mile south-eastward, and less distances in other
directions.

North Mangsee Island is half a mile north-westward of South Mangsee, and,
like it, is covered with trees ; these rise to a kind of apex near the centre,
1 60 ft. above the level of the sea. The island is 7 cables long and 3 cables
broad, and from its East end reefs and shoals extend — beyond those project-
ing from South Mangsee — for a distance of 2^ miles, and some patches of 4
to 7 fathoms extend half a mile further in an easterly direction. From the
West end a line of reefs and shoals runs off in a W. by N. | N. direction,
nearly 3^ miles.

Jessie Shoal,] 1 J mile long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and half a mile broad,
lies about 2 to 3 miles E.N.E. of the Mangsees, having as little as 6 ft. over
it in places. This danger is situated at the East part of the bank, and some
shoal spots run off from it in a south-easterly direction. From 10 fathoms
outside these, Salingsingan bears N.W. by W. ^ W., distant A\ miles, and
the left extreme of South Mangsee Island W.S.W., distant 3^ miles.

Salitigsingan Island is a mere strip of coral and sand, covered with trees ;
it is rather more than half a mile long, N.W. by W. J W, and S.E. by
E. ^ E., and shoals extend 2 miles westward of the island, and three-quarters
of a mile eastward.

* The limits of this bank, as is the case with all the other similar banks encumbering
Balabac Strait, is detined, on the chart, by a danger line ; and as the separate dangers com-
prising these banks lie too close together for vessels to pass amongst them, they are not de-
scribed minutely, but only in general terms, and as briefly as possible.

t It must have been on this shoal that the Black Adder grounded in November, 1873, as
described, in a letter to the " Nautical Magazine " of May, 1874.

532 BALABAC STEAIT.

Loxdale Shoal, forming the West end of the Danger Bank, lies U mile
westward of the dangers extending from the islands of North Mangsee and
Salingsingan, the depths between being from 22 to 34 fathoms. It is a
coral shoal, nearly If mile long, E. f N. and W. f S. From the West end
of this danger Banguey Peak bears S.S.W., South Mangsee Island S.E. by
E. -J- E., and Salingsingan E. \ S.

Mangsee Channel, separating Mangsee Great Eeef from Mangsee Danger
Bank, is a mile wide at its narrowest part, between the shoal water extend-
ing half a mile off Great Eeef and that stretching off the same distance from
South Mangsee; the depths there are irregular, 14 to 17 fathoms near the
reef, and 24 to 33 fathoms towards the island, and throughout the channel
the depths are greater on the side of the Mangsee Danger Bank.

Ordinary navigators will rarely have occasion to use this channel, but in
case of necessity, the following directions may be of assistance : — Coming
from the westward, and having sighted the Mangsee Islands, bring the
centre of the South one to bear E. by S., and steer for it, carefully preserving
the bearing ; when the West end of North Mangsee bears N.E. by E. | E.
steer S.E. by S., passing midway between the islands and Great Eeef. With
a good compass and a vigilant look-out, no difficulty will be found in follow-
ing these directions, and passing safely through this channel.

Coming from the eastward, a vessel must be guided by the look-out alone
to the entrance of the channel, which, being arrived at, she should pasa
through the middle, steering a N.W. by N. course ; when the West end of
North Mangsee bears N.E. by E. | E., and the centre of South Mangsee
E. by S., steer W. by N. out of the channel.

GREAT DANGEH BANK is very extensive, and comprises many shoals,
amongst which no vessel should venture. It is 14 miles long in a W.N.W.
and opposite direction, and 8 miles broad at its N.W. end, gradually de-
creasing in breadth towards the opposite extreme ,• the outline of the entire
bank closely resembles the form of a shoulder of mutton.

S.E. Shoals denote several small coral patches situated at that end of the
bank; they extend over a space about 3 miles in diameter. From the S.E.
extreme of the bank Balabac Peak bears N.W. ^ W., North Mangsee apex
S.W. by W. f W., and Banguey Peak S.W. -J W. southerly.

Sa7id Cay, the only conspicuous object marking any part of the bank,
stands at the southern side of it, about 5 miles westward of the S.E. extreme,
and 3^- miles northward of the East end of Mangsee Danger Bank. From
the centre of the cay the left extreme of South Mangsee bears S.W. | S. 6
miles, centre of Salingsingan W. by S. | S. 5 miles, and Balabac Peak N.W.
27^ miles.

Middle Shoals are a cluster of coral patches, lying on that part of the bank
implied by their name. Mrth Patches, two in number, lie along the North
edge of the bank, and have nowhere less than 3 J fathoms water over them.

BALABAC STEAIT. 533

-2V. W. Shoals lie along the edge of that portion of the bank designated by
their name, and near the eastern end of them is a spot with only 9 ft. over
it. From the 10-fathom line bounding the north-western extreme of the
shoal patches, Banguey Peak bears S. by W. I W., Balabac Peak N.W. I N.,
Lumbucan N. | W., and Salingsiugan S.S.E. f E.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, separating Mangsee Danger Bank trom Great
Danger Bank, is a mile wide at its narrowest part, between the shoals ex-
tending nearly three-quarters of a mile eastward of Salingsingan and those
extending 3 miles westward of Sand Cay, increasing greatly in width towards
both ends.

Middle Channel lies quite out of the ordinary route of ships, but it may be
safely made use of, if necessary, by attending to the following directions : —
Coming from the westward, shape a course to sight Salingsingan Island
between the bearings of E. by S. ^ S. and S.E. The former bearing leads
a quarter of a mile northward of Loxdale Patch, and the latter close to 9
fathoms on the edge of Great Danger Bank. Having made out Salingsingan^
and being arrived within 4 or 5 miles of it, the fairway course through the
channel is E. by S. f S., passing a good mile northward of Salingsingan, and
bearing in mind that shoal water stretches off nearly a mile in a N.W. by W.
direction from that island. Being past Salingsingan the Sand Cay should
be seen about three points on the port bow ; proceed on the same course,
and pass out of the channel, remembering that the centre of Salingsingan
bearing W. by N. J N. leads close to the Jessie Shoal, and bearing W. 5 S.
close to the edge of the Great Danger Bank.

Coming from the eastward, the channel must be approached cautiously,
and if near the S.E. part of Great Danger Bank, care must be taken not to
bring the apex of North Mangsee to the south fl^ard of W. by S. f S., and a
sharp look-out kept for the Sand Cay and Salingsingan ; when the last is
sighted, the centre must be brought between the bearings of W. by N. i N.
and W. -^- S., and a mid-channel course, W. by N. J N., steered through the
channel, passing a mile to the northward of Salingsingan ; when past that
island, its centre must not be brought to the eastward of E. by S. ^ S. till
Balabac Peak bears N.N.W. in order to keep clear of Loxdale Patch, nor
to the southward of S.E. until Lumbucan bears North in order to avoid
Great Danger Bank.

Ray Bank, composed of sand, underneath which there is probably coral,
is a mile long E. by N. ^ N. and W. by S. i S., and half a mile broad, the
least water near the centre being 4 fathoms. It lies about 4i miles eastward
of the N.W. shoals on the Great Danger Bank.

Ellis Shoal, 3 miles north-eastward of Ray Bank, is a coral bank, 2J
miles long in an E. I N. and opposite direction, and 6 cables broad. The
western half, having 9 to 6 fathoms water over it, is not dangerous, but the
eastern half is so, there being but 21 and 3 fathoms over the greater part of

534 BALABAC STEAIT.

it. From the West extreme of tlie shoal part, Balabac Peak bears N.N.W.
I W., and the centre of Lumbucan N.N.E. ^ E.

Simanahan Reef and Channel. — The reef is about If mile northward of
North Patches on the Great Danger Bank, situated near the centre of a coral
bank 5 miles long, E. ^ N. and W. ^ S., and three-quarters of a mile wide.
The part, dry at low water, has a sand-bank near its centre, which is just
below the surface at high water ; this serves, even when covered, from the
lio'ht colour of the water over it, to point out the position of the reef from a
considerable distance. From the West extreme of the bank the centre of
Lumbucan bears N.N.W. f W. Sf miles, and Steep-fall Eange, on Balabac
Island, W. by N. f N. 15^ miles.

The channel between Great Danger Bank and Simanahan Eeef is perfectly
free from danger with soundings of 24 to 30 fathoms. All that is necessary
for its safe navigation is to pass about three-quarters of a mile to the south-
ward of the reef on an East or West course, but occasion can very seldom
arise to render this a convenient channel to proceed by.

Doorly Patches are several small coral banks, the centre of them lying
N N.E. I E., Similes from the centre of Simanahan Sand-bank. The general
depths over them are 7 to 10 fathoms, and no less than 6^ fathoms could be
discovered anywhere upon them.

Lumbucan Danger Bank, 5i miles long N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and
2j miles wide, comprises Lumbucan Island, with the dangers extending
around it, and also some isolated shoals southward and north-eastward of it.

Lmnlucan Island, bearing S.E. by E. \ E. from Balabac Peak, and 9 miles
distant from the shore, is small, low, and wooded, with the trees gradually
rising from the centre. It is surrounded by a reef and shoal water. South
Shoal lies 1% mile soutliward of the island. It is half a mile in extent, with
If to 3 fathoms water over it, and uneven depths. K.£. Shoals, some coral
patches, with If to 3 fathoms over them, lie a mile north-eastward of the
dangers encompassing Lumbucan.

Lumbucan Channel, limited to the southward by Ellis Shoal and Simana-
han Eeef, and to the northward by Lumbucan Danger Bank, is 4 to 5 miles
wide, and perfectly free from danger. Doorly Patches divide the channel at
its eastern end, the passage northward of them being 4 miles, and the one
southward of them 2 miles wide.

If bound to the north-eastward, this channel, on account of its capacious-
ness, is a very good one to use ; and to ensure a safe navigation, it will be
only necessary to keep a proper look-out for the dangers limiting it, and
when near them to pay attention to the bearings (previously given) of the
different land objects which point out their extremes.

Comeeran Danger Bank, 2f miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and a mile
broad, includes within its limits Domeeran Island and two shoals. Natives

BALABAC STEAIT. 535

from Balabac frequent the island for the purpose of catching turtle, which
at times resort here in great numbers.

Comeeran Island, one-fourth the size of Lumbucan, but similar in character,
lies N. i E. 5 miles from that island. It is surrounded by a reef, extending
from 1 to 2 cables off.

A shoal, nearly half a mile in extent, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it,
lies south-westward of Comeeran, its outer edge being distant nearly 1 J mile ;
and another shoal, about the same size, having 2| to 3 fathoms over it, lies
a little farther off in an easterly direction, Balabac Peak bearing "W. f N.
leads southward of all the dangers near Comeeran, and bearing W. I S.
northward of them ; Lumbucan bearing S. by E. I E. leads westward, and
the extreme of the trees on the North point of that island bearing S.S.W.
leads eastward of them.

Comeeran Channel is 3^ miles wide between the dangers surrounding
Lumbucan and the S. W. shoal off Comeeran. The soundings in it are very-
irregular, with 6 to 10 fathoms over coral patches in places; and a bank
about a mile in extent, lies near the middle, over the southern part of which
are 4f and 5 fathoms — the least water that could be discovered anywhere in
the passage; this lies with Balabac Peak bearing W. by N. | N., Co:; eerau
Island N. | W. This channel is not to be recommended, but it can be used
with safety by attention to the bearings, before given, of the extremes of the
dangers bounding it.

Nasubatta Island and Reef. — Nasubatta Island, lying N.N.W. ^ W. 7i
miles from Comeeran, is a low cleft rock of sandstone formation, covered
with trees, and appearing like two small bushy islets when seen from the
N.W. and S.E. It lies from 2 to 3 cables inside the northern edo-e of a reef
dry at low water, which extends three-quarters of a mile S.W., 1^ mile
S.S.W., and more than a mile S.E. by S. from the larger islet ; close to this
shoal are depths of 40 to 50 fathoms, and 70 to 75 fathoms 3 or 4 cables off.

Roughton Reef lies to the eastward of Nasubatta Eeef, separated by a
channel l^ mile broad, in which the depths are very great. On the N. W".
side is a sand cay, upon which some bushes have sprung up. From this
Balabac Peak bears S.W. by "W. ^ W., Comeeran Island S. f E., and the
larger Nasubatta Islet W. I N. The reef is steep-to at most parts, and
three-quarters of a mile northward of the East point is an isolated spot of 2^
fathoms.

Nasubatta Channel is 4! miles wide between the edge of the reef surround-
ing Comeeran and the edge of Eoughton Eeef. It is necessary, when navi-
gating this channel, to carefully guard against the effects of the strono- tides
and currents which sweep through it in the direction of North Balabac Strait
•with great velocity.

The sonndings on the East coast of Balabac, inside the islands above de-
scribed, are very deep, owing to a strong current usually sweeping past ; no

536 BALABAC STRAIT.

bottom being obtained with upwards of 70, and in some places 100 fathoms
line, within a mile of the shore.

Candaraman Island lies north-westward of Nasubatta, distant 3^ miles
from reef to reef. It is a low, flat island, and the reef, which extends from 3
to 4 cables from the northern and eastern sides of Candaraman, and on the
edge of which a few detached rocks generally show, forms the south-eastern
limit of North Balabac Strait.

North Channel is 4^ miles wide between the North end of Nasubatta
Eeef and the S.E. part of that extending from Canabungan, and 5i miles
wide between the shoal water off Houghton Eeef and the reefs extending IJ
mile from Byan and Gabung Islands.

The soundings, in a N.W. direction from Nasubatta, are very deep, as
will be seen by the chart. The only difficulty likely to arise in the naviga-
tion of this channel will be caused by the strong tides and currents which
rush through it with great velocity during the stregth of the monsoons,
requiring a strong favourable breeze to enable a sailing vessel to make
headway against them. But no danger is likely to occur from this cause if
vessels keep over to the northward of the deep water, where they can always
bring up.

NORTH BALABAC STRAIT.— About 26 miles N. by E. ^ E. from Bala-
bac Peak, and nearly 16 miles from Cape Disaster, the northern extremity
of Balabac, is Cape Buliluyan, the southern point of Palawan ; the inter-
vening space being occupied by a cluster of low wooded islands, almost
destitute of feature, the largest and easternmost of which is Bugsuk. These
islands admit only of one safe channel between them, called North Balabac
Strait, which is formed on the South by Balabac Island and Candaraman,
and on the North by Bancalan, Mantangule, and Canabungan Islands.

Secam is a low wooded island, 1;^ mile long, and only 1^ cable wide, lying
in an E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction, at the western entrance of North
Balabac Strait, northward of Cape Disaster, and separated from it by Bate
Channel, 1| mile wide, where there is deep water, 20 and 30 fathoms, close
to the edge of the reefs. The island is surrounded by a reef which follows
the contour of the coast-line, and extends 1 1 mile from its north-western
extreme ; and there is a 4-fathom patch near the extreme, and a similar
patch li mile West from the West end of Secam.

Bancalan Island, lying 5 miles north-eastward of Secam, is 3 miles long,
N.W. and S.E., and 1? mile wide, and has a small tree on its western side.
The island is half encircled by a reef, contracting the channel between it and
Secam to the width of 3 miles.

Mantangule lies 3 miles south-eastward of Bancalan Island, and the space
between is rendered dangerous by numerous small patches of shallow water.
Mantangule is 5 miles long, E. by S. | S. and W. by N. ^ N., and IJ mile
broad. It is much larger than Canabungan, which lies 2 miles to the south-

NORTH BALABAC STRAIT. 537

westward of it, and which is but 1|- mile long, N.E. and S.W., and about a
third of a mile broad.

Reefs also extend Ij mile to the westward of Mantangule and Canabun-
gan, the two islands being connected by a bank of sand and coral.

To the south-westward of Canabungan, between it and Candaraman, is
the narrowest part of the channel, 1| miles wide, where a strong current is
usually setting.

A vessel requiring anchorage will find tolerable shelter from S.W. winds on
the North side of Secam Island, in 19 and 20 fathoms water, sand and coral,
about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, with the eastern extreme of
the island bearing South ; the reef to the westward affording protection from
the swell.

In blowing weather, a second anchor should be let go in time, as the
squalls, which often succeed each other rapily, are sometimes most violent ;
and, once off the bank in deep water, a vessel would be awkwardly situated
as there is no other anchorage for which she could run ; and taking the
channel, the only alternative at night, would be attended with risk.

Tides and Current. — It is high water at Secam Island, full and change, at
lO*" 50'" a.m., and low water at 6^ oO"* p.m. ; rise 5 ft. The flood tide sets to
the eastward, and the ebb to the westward ; maximum velocity observed 2^
knots. There is only a tide and a half-tide in the 24 hours, the latter occur-
ring in the daytime in the month of November.

The strength of the current through Balabac Strait depends greatly on
the prevailing winds. In the months of October and November, after a
succession of westerly winds, it was found to set constantly to the eastward,
slackening only on the ebb tide ; while in July, after a continuance of un-
usually fine weather, with light East and S.E. winds, it set with the same
velocity, viz., from three-quarters to 2-J knots in the opposite direction. The
mean velocity observed for thirteen consecutive hours was 1| knot.

Directions. — If coming from the southward or westward, do not attempt
to approach Balabac Island nearer than 12 miles, until its peak bears to the
southward of S.E. by E. i E. ; or if obscured, a low cliff hill, near the
northern extremity of the island, bearing East, when an E.N.E. course may
be steered for Secam Island, which will show like a small cluster of trees
with a flattish summit.

Pass nearly mid-channel to the southward of Secam Island, borrowing a
little on its shore, to avoid the edge of the reef which extends about three-
fourths of a mile from Cape Disaster, but on which the sea generally breaks.

From Secam Island the channel course is S.E. by E. 6 miles, passing
between Candaraman and Canabungan, two low islands, appearing nearly
equal in size and elevation ; the former having a small island between it and
I. A. 3 :i

535 BALABAC STRAIT.

Balabac, and the latter a few casuarina trees detached from its northern
extremity.

Approaching from the north-westward, Secam will appear like a small
round island ; and in passing to the northward of it, care should be taken
not to approach too near the reef off the north-western extremity, as rocky
ground extends three-fourths of a mile from it, where there may be shoaler
water than that marked in the chart ; viz. 6 and 8 fathoms.

Having passed Secam Island about 5 miles, Nasubatta will be seen, dis-
tant about 7 or 8 miles, through the channel in the offing to the south-east-
ward, and soon afterwards Comeeran Island nearly in line beyond it.

If bound to Dalawan Bay, and a S.W. wind, haul close round the reef
of Candaraman, and beat down between these islands and the Balabac shore,
where there is a safe channel with deep water, but no anchorage.

Islets near Banealan Pataican is a small wooded islet, encircled by a

reef, lying a mile to the north-eastward of the point of Banealan. Paton-
gong Met lies 3 miles north-eastward of Banealan. Canimeran, lying 1| mile
north-eastward of Patongong, and 3 miles from Cape Buliluyan, is a small
sandy island with trees ; a reef extends 8 cables to the north-westward.

Pandannan Island, 3^ miles to the north-eastward of Banealan, is about 6^
miles in length N.E. and S.W., and about 2f miles wide. Its southern and
western shore are fronted with coral, and off the south-western extreme is a
sand-bank, dry at low water.

On the North side of Padannan the land rises a little, on which there are
two conspicuous trees. The extremity of the island also terminaoes in small
abrupt heads, more especially at the N.E. point, off which there is a small
bushy islet, from which a reef extends b\ miles in a north-easterly direction,
parallel with the coast of Palawan, having 20 and 24 fathoms close to its
western edge.

There is also an islet on the N.W. face of the island, midway between it
and Palawan, and East 2^ miles from Canimeran, from which an extensive
reef projects, contracting the channel round the South point of Palawan to
three-fourths of a mile, where there are 7 to 9 fathoms, mud.

Fresh water was found in a small opening on the South side of Pandannan
Island, about If mile to the eastward of the point; but the supply, besides'
being scanty, is difficult to obtain, owing to a reef that extends \\ mile from
the shore, parts of which are dry at low water.

Bugsuk Island, or Bongsook, 9 miles long, in a North and South direction,
and 4^ miles broad, lies close to the East side of Pandannan, but is sepa-
rated from it by a long channel, only 3J cables wide, running nearly North
and South, in which there are depths of 10 and 18 fathoms. The southern
and eastern faces of Bugsuk are fronted by a reef extending in some parts
nearly 2 miles from the shore. The only recognizable feature on the island
is a clump of trees near the N.E. extreme. Bowen is a small island lying off

PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST. 539

the North point of Bugsuk, and a reef, partly dry at low water, extends S^
miles from it in an easterly direction. Appo, Guhung, and Byan are small
islands lying in an irregular W.S.W. direction from the S.W. point of Bug-
suk, with which they are connected by a reef. Ifalimono Island lies 1 1 mile
N.N.E. of Mantangule, and is connected with it by a coral spit. It is small,
high, and differs from the rest in character and feature. The ground in the
vicinity is foul, and studded with rocky patches nearly awash.

Channels. — To the eastward of Bancalan, limited on the North and South
by Pandannan and Mantangule, and on the East and S.E. by Bugsuk, and
the small islands Appo, Gabung, and Byan, is an expanse of water, 8 miles
in an East and West, and 3J miles in a North and South direction, where in
some parts anchorage, sheltered from all winds, may be found in from 7 to
12 fathoms. The channel into it are, however, intricate, and almost im-
practicable for sailing vessels, being either close along the edges of the reef,
or, where it is wide and inviting, between small detached coral patches, for
which it is impossible to give any specific directions.

It must be borne in mind, that in navigating these channels, much de-
pends on a good lookout ; for the edges of the reef are generally well defined,
and any danger likely to bring a ship up, will under ordinary circumstances,
be detected beforehand.

PALAWAN* ISLAND, WEST COAST.

Cape Buliluyan, or Booleelooyan, the southern point of Palawan Island, in
lat. 8° 20' 25" N., long. 117° 9' 41 ' E., is low, fronted by mangroves, hav-
ing on its South side depths of 4 to 8 fathoms close to the shore, and on the
eastern side from 28 to 30 fathoms. The western side is fronted by a reef,
which is dry at low water.

Coral Patches. — At 2 miles to the westward of Cape Buliluyan, and the
same distance northward of the small bushy island of Canimeran, is a coral
patch three-quarters of a mile in extent, with 2 and 4 fathoms on it, the
soundings in the neighbourhood being 18 and 20 fathoms. North, a little
westerly, 3 miles from the above and 2J miles from the shore, is another
patch with the same depth, half a mile in extent, from the centre of which
the body of Capyas Island, a little open North of S.W. hill, bears N.E. | E.,
and the southern extreme of Palawan S.E. by S. easterly.

Off Welcome Point, 3i miles to the northward of Cape Buliluyan, rocky
ground, with 2 and 3 fathoms on it, extends about If mile from the shore ;
and if the Regenth bearings be correct, it was on this spot that a vessel of
that name was wrecked in October, 1822.

* This island is known to the Spanirds as Faraquas.

540 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

Capyas, a small, low, woody island, lies 6 miles to the northward of Cape
Buliluyan, and 1 mile off shore. The South side of the island is steep-to.
Eocky ground extends 2i miles to the westward of Capyas.

ALIMUDEEN POINT, N. by E. f E, distant SJ miles from Capyas, is a
small wooded promontory, which forms the southern extremity of Caneepaan
Bay. A low range of hills, which begin to rise abreast of Capyas, runs
parallel with the coast, about H ^^^ inshore, of which S.W. hill, with
a small triple summit 900 feet above the sea, is the highest and most con-
spicuous.

South Eegent Shoal, which appears to be the westernmost of the inner
dangers, is a patch of sand and coral, upwards of half a mile in extent,
North and South, on which, near its northern extreme, there are only 8 ft.
water, with 13 and 14 fathoms all around the edge. It lies nearly midway
on the bank, 7^ miles from the shore, and 5| miles South of the North
Eegent Shoal.

Kamonga Shoal.— On a line with S.W. hill, E. by S. f S. 3f miles from
the South Eegent Shoal, and midway between it and the shore, is the Ka-
monga, a 2-fathoms patch 3 cables in extent.

CANEEPAAN BAY.— Cape Seeacle, 2| miles N.N.E. of Alimudeen Point,
is a wooded promontory higher than that of Alimudeen, forming the North
extremity of Caneepaan Bay, with a small but conspicuous tree on the flat
part of its summit. In the centre of a sandy beach to the southward of this,
the Caneepaan Eiver disembogues. It is navigable for boats. Northward
of Cape Seeacle, and formed on the East side of that promontory, is a small
bay, called Seemagoup, with reefs drying nearly across the entrance. The
eastern shore of Seemagoup Bay is overlooked by Caneepahan Hill, 976 ft,
above the sea, rather steep and conical, with two summits when seen from
the north-westward.

BULANHOW MOUNTAIN.— To the eastward of Caneepaan Hill, and
nearly in the centre of the island from shore to shore (which is here about
13 miles across), the high land of Bulanhow rises, attaining an elevation of
about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea. It is of a reddish aspect.

SE PAN-GOW BAY. — N.E. 5 J miles from Cape Seeacle is Se-pan-gow
Bay, in which apparently there are two deep inlets, with Cliff Point, a small
red cliff to the northward, and two green islets lying close together imme-
diately under steep hill, the shoulder of a coast-range to the southward.
There are 8 and 9 fathoms at the entrance of the bay, but when well within
the points, the mud dries across it.

Water. — N.E. 3£- miles from Cliff Point is Eock Point, a long bluff head,
with a small rock lying off it. To the southward of this point is a sandy
bay, the shore of which is lined with casuarina trees, where, at the western
extremity, near Pine Point, there is a good flow of fresh water.

TERIGEE BANK-MARASI BAY. 511

PERIGEE BANK.- The coast between Cape Seeacle and Cliff Point is
dangerous to ajrproach, as rocky, uneven ground, with many shoal patches,
extends in some places 2h miles from the shore. The largest of these
patches is the Perigee, with 2^ fathoms over it, on which the sea breaks in
blowing weather, lying to the westward of Se-pan-gow Bay, and N.W. by
W. 2J miles from Providence Point.

Coloby Patch. — N.N.E. 3j miles from the south-western extremity of the
Perigee Bank, and N.W. \ N. 4J miles from Cliff Point, is the Coloby
Patch, 2 cables' lengths in extent, with 2^ fathoms upon it, and 22 and 25
fathoms water in its immediate vicinity.

Antelope Shoal.— W. | N. 3i miles from the Coloby Patch, and N.E. JN.
5^ miles irom the Breaker Reef, is the largest of the Antelope cluster. It is
a narrow, angular strip of sand and coral, 7 cables in extent in a N.E. and
S.AV. direction, on which there are only 2| fathoms water, with 30 and 35
fathoms on either side. It lies 6 miles from the shore, and there are 30
fathoms, green mud, between it and the Coloby Patch. S.W. by W. j W.
IJ mile from the centre of this shoal, is a 3-fathom shoal patch; and there
is also another with 3 and 4 fathoms, N. by W. ^ W., about li mile from it.

N.E. by E. J E. 1 mile from the Antelope, is a bank of sand and coral, 4
cables in extent, with only 2 fathoms Avater on it.

N.E. Antelope Shoal, the north-easternmost of the Antelope cluster, lies
N.E. by E. 5 E. Ij mile from the latter 2-fathom shoal, and N.E. -easterly,
2| miles fom the Antelope. It is 3 cables in extent, and not less than 3
fathoms were found upon it, and it has 31 fathoms close to its outer edge.

The lead does not give the slightest indication when in the proximity of
these shoals.

MARASI BAY.— From Rock Point the coast trends to the eastward 4
miles, forming Marasi Bay, off the North point of which, distant 6 cables, is
a small bushy islet called Leeta-Leeta, connected with the shore by a reef
which also extends the same distance northward of it.

From Rock Point a low ridge extends along the South shore of Marasi
Bay, on which is Balansungain Peak, 947 ft. in height above the sea. At
the back of the above ridge, fronting Bulanhow and running parallel with
the coast, is a higher range, called I-wi-ig, with a double hill in the centre,
1,814 ft. above the sea.

Balansungain Islands. — In the south-western part of Marasi Bay, a mile
from Rock Point, are two islands of sandstone formation, called Balansun-
gain, lying 3 to 5 cables' lengths from the shore ; the westernmost (which is
flat) being nearly connected with it by a spit which dries at low water.

The distance from Marasi Bay to Rocky Bay on the opposite shore of the
island is 10 miles.

PAGODA CLIFFS.— N.E. i E. lOJ miles from the summit of Bulanhow,
and 5^ miles inland of Marasi Bay, is a remarkable limestone cliff, 2,000 ft.

542 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

above the level of the sea, having a table summit with two clefts, which
form pinnacles at either extremity ; the southern being the sharper, and
having a small ninepin rock in the gap, is conspicuous on a N.W. and S.E.
bearino-. It is called by the natives Ta-go-ra-ras, and by the old navigators
the Pagoda Cliff. It rises immediately above a plain, which here extends in
a North and South direction across the island.

MANTALEENGAHAN MOUNTAIN, the summit of which is in lat. 8° 49'
22" N. lono-. 117*^ 39' 26' E., is the highest on the island of Palawan,
attaining an elevation above the sea of 6,843 ft. It is usually of a reddish
barren aspect, and when viewed from the westward has a table summit, the
North end, where it takes a sudden . fall, being the highest part; while a
long smooth shoulder, terminating in three small nipples, slopes gradually
to the southward.

From Mantaleengahan Mountain a high central range extends in a North
easterly direction to the parallel of 9° 10' N., having on it several remarka-
ble notch saddle peaks with sharp shoulders, the two highest of which are
Lan-dar-gun (a deep saddle summit), 5,397 ft. : and Gantung (a notch peak),
5,868 ft. above the level of the sea. Towards the termination of this range,
there is a table hill with a sharp nipple, called Cal-li-lu-gon, 1,793 ft.

The Coast from Leeta-Leeta Islet trends to the north-eastward 13J miles
to Pampangduyang Point ; it is low, and has small bays, in some of which
there are rivulets of fresh water.

Illaan Hill, frequently a useful object on this part of the coast, from the
high land being obscured, is a small detached hill, covered with wood, 600
feet above the sea, rising a mile from the coast behind Townsend Point, and
S. J W. 2J miles from Pampangduyang Point.

A mile and a half southward of Pampangduyang Point, in the bight of a
small bay, is a rivulet, from which in favourable weather a supply of good
water may be obtained.

Five-Fathom Patches. — N. by W. f W. 4 miles from Washington Head,
and W. i N. from Illaan Hill, is a 5-fathom patch, 2 cables in extent, lying
3^ miles from the shore, with a patch which breaks at low water 2J miles
to the south-eastward of it ; the latter lying 1^ mile West of Jervois
Point.

Caution. — Vessels should not approach this part of the coast within 3
miles. The lead gives no warning when near a reef, and the water is not
always sufficiently clear to see the danger.

The Coast from Pampangduyang Point takes a north-easterly direction
for 11^- miles to Eran Point, which, as well as the intermediate land, is low,
densely wooded, and fronted by reefs drying from 4 to 5, and in some parts
7, cables' lengths from the shore.

Eran ftuoin. — At 7^ miles from Pampangduyang Point is low Point, 2^
miles beyond which is Beecher Point, and on the plain between these two

ERAN BAY -TRIPLE-TOP ISLAND. 543

points is a quoin-shaped hill called by the natives Pa-le-pie-kan, rising to an
elevation of 518 ft. above the level of the sea. It is in lat. 9° 3' 25" N., long.
117° 38' 56" E., and from it Eran Point bears N.E. by N. 2^ miles.

ERAN BAY, immediately to the eastward of Eran Point, is the first bay
on the coast, coming from the southward, which affords eligible anchorage
in S.W. winds, to obtain wood, water, and supplies. Its locality may be
readily recognized by the Eran Quoin.

Grantung Mountain and False Sharp peak (the latter likely to be mistaken
when first seen for Sharp or Sal-le-kan Peak), 2,814 ft. farther South, over-
look this bay, the spurs from which approach very near the coast.

Eran Bay is 4 miles wide at the entrance, 2 miles deep, and open to the
northward ; the bottom is bisected by a long head called Truce Head. From
this islet the reef projects ju a northerly direction three-quarters of a mile,
with its extremity East 2 miles from Eran Point. S. by E. 1^ mile from
this point, in the S.W. corner of the bay, is the entrance of the Eran River,
which, under ordinary circumstances, boats can enter, and obtain a supply
of good water without going very far up. There are one or two rivulets of
fresh water, called by the natives Eetloose, to the eastward of Truce Head.

The population of this and the neighbouring district, at the period of the
Eoyalisfs visit, was said to be about 750, chiefly Dusuns, or hill people.

The best place to anchor in Eran Bay is eastward of Eran Point, a mile
from the shore, in 6J or 7 fathoms, stiflf mud, with the Quoin Hill bearing
S W. |- W., and Bivouac Islet S.E. by E., midway between it and the reef
off Bivouac Islet, or closer up if necessary.

It is high water, full and change, in Eran Bay, at lO*" 10"" a.m. ; the rise
is 65 ft. There is a tide and half-tide in the 24 hours.

The Coast to the northward of Eran Bay trends N.N.E. about 4 miles to
Elizabeth Point ; then N.E. by E. 9f miles to Hummock Point. Pu-Lute
Range, which is about 7J miles inshore of this part of the coast, is 3,067 ft.
high, with a deep saddle to the southward, and a high and a low sharp
Nipple, the former 2,930 ft. in height, on the slope to the northward.

Malapakkun and Marantao Islands. — Three miles W. by S. of Hummock
Point, and 1;^ mile off the shore, is Malapakkun, a wooded island 340 feet
high, with a small double summit. Fringing reefs extend along the neigh-
bouring coast, increasing in distance from the shore towards Hummock
Point, and inclosing a small island called Marantao, 247 ft. high, lying off
the coast 1 mile to the westward of the point.

Caution. — Vessels approaching the coast immediately to the northward of
Eran Bay, should not shut Malapakkun Island in with Elizabeth Point, as
the ground is treacherous thereabouts.

TRIPLE-TOP ISLAND, N.E. \ E. 4i miles from Marantao, and N.W.
nearly 3 miles from Albion Head, is the outermost of several islands ]yin"
from 2 to 4 miles to the Eastward of Hummock Point. It is somewhat flat

544 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

■with three summits (the highest being 162 ft. above the sea), and a pinnacle
rock at its northern extremity. A reef extends 1 cable's length from the
S.W. side of Triple-top.

TAY-BAY-U BAY. — Albion Head, bearing E. by N. 4^ miles from Hum-
mock Point, is a bold perpendicular limestone cliff, with stalactite caves,
luxuriantly wooded, and having several summits of nearly equal elevation,
the highest being 600 ft. above the sea. It is the extremity of a point
projecting from the land, in a north-easterly direction, and forming the
western shore of Tay-bay-u Bay.

Tay-bay-u Bay affords shelter in either monsoon, being protected on the
S.W. by the projecting point, of which Albion Head forms the extremity,
and on the North by a low, flat island, surrounded by reefs. It is, how-
ever, difficult of access, and ought not to be attempted by vessels without
some previous local knowledge.

A long range of hills overlooks the southern part of Tay-bay-u Bay, the
highest part of which is 1,630 ft. above the sea, extending to the south-
eastward, two-thirds of the way across the island, where it terminates in
the conical mound Ma- la-nut, 1,290 ft. above the sea, but not so high in
appearance.

The shore of Tay-bay-u Bay is fronted with mangrove, and in the south-
eastern part, at the western extremity of a sand-beach, the Ma-la-nut River
disembogues, where fresh water may be procured with tolerable facility when
the river is swollen.

About 1| mile up this river there is a landing-place on the right bank,
which leads into an open tract of country rather extensively cultivated,
where there are a few houses, occupied principally by Illanuns, the chief of
whom styles himself Sultan of Ma-la-nut, and exercises almost absolute
control over a population of about 3,000 souls. They are in communication
with the people of Eran and Caneepaan, and also with other Malay estab-
lishments on the East coast of the island.

Supplies. — Goats, fowls, yams, and vegetables of various kinds were pro-
cured, for which the natives were willing to take cloth, crockery, and other
articles in exchange ; and they would stack firewood on the beach (but
would not embark it) at the rate of one dollar for 100 billets, the average
size of each being about 2 feet long and 4 inches thick.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tay-bay-u Bay, at ll*" 15"
a.m. ; low water at S** 50"" p.m. ; rise 6 feet. The current is hardly per-
ceptible.

Unless the navigator has some previous local knowledge of Tay-bay-u
Bay, it is almost impossible to give clear sailing directions for it, as no mark
will lead direct in.

TREACHEROUS BAY.— Eleven miles from Albion Head is Deep Bay
I'oiut, and midway between is Treacherous Bay, separated from the latter

VICTORIA PEAK— MOORSOM HEAD. 545

by a group of four islands, and overlooked by two remarkable peaked hills
(called by the old navigators LevU's Cap Peak), the foot of which breaks
through the mangrove and forms a conspicuous yellow-looking cliff on the
shore, three-quarters of a mile to the S.W. of which is a stream of fresh water.
Back Cap, the highest or inshore peak, is 720 ft. above the sea.

It is recommended not to stand into Treacherous Bay, as the reefs to the
northward, as well as to the north-westward of Low Flat Island, extend a
long way off, and the water is usually so muddy that they cannot be seen.

The Coast between Double Island and Deep Bay Point is low and thickly
wooded, and should not be approached nearer than 2 miles, as the edge of
the reef dries half a mile from the points, with rocky ground in some places
a mile beyond it. From Deep Bay Point to Long Point, a distance of 18
miles, the general trend of the coast is N.E. ^ N.

VICTORIA PEAK, a sharp double peak, the second highest on Palawan
Island, attaining an elevation of 5,680 ft. above the sea, occupies a central
position on the intermediate range, from which several lower ranges, of not
l«ss remarkable feature, extend on either side, forming ravines and deep
gorges, thickly clothed with timber.

VALLEY CONE. — From a range immediately in front of Victoria Peak, a
spur runs down to the coast to Steep Point, 4| miles to the north-eastward
of Deep Bay Point, forming on the North side a valley, at the head of which
is Valley Cone, a remarkable conical hill lying beneath three sharp peaks on
the ridge above.

GAP RANGR — Immediately overlooking these hills is Brow peak or
shoulder, 3,840 ft. above the sea, forming the extremity of a ridge which
here takes a sudden trend to the eastward, attaining an elevation of about
5,000 ft, at its highest part, and having two gap peaks on it halfway.

The northern face of this range is a steep slope, with deep ravines and
some conical hills at the foot, of which latter Brow Cone, 1,180 It. high, over
Bluff Point, is conspicuous.

The Coast. — The bay to the northward of Deep Bay Point is bold to ap-
proach to half a mile of the shore ; but from Steep Point to Bluff Point the
coast is fronted by a reef, extending from 3 to 5 cables off.

Peaked Island, 110 ft. high, with a rock 23 ft. out of water, nearly three-
quarter of a mile to the westward of it, lies off the entrance of a fresh-water
stream which flows into the sea just northward of a mound 280 feet high,
called Cuckold Hill.

MOORSOM HEAD, 3^ miles beyond Bluff Point, is rather a prominent
headland, moderately elevated, with a small rock out of water half a mile
to the westward, and a reef awash — lying a mile from the shore, with 7 fa-
thoms inside it — 1 J mile to the northward of it.

Water. — There is a stream of fresh water at the base of Moorsom Head,
I. A. 4 a

546 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

in a sandy bay on the North side, and also one at the extremity of the heach,
nearly a mile to the north-eastward.

LONG POINT, in lat 9° 38' 8" N., long. 118° 19' 6" E., is densely wooded,
moderately elevated, and gradually sloping from the centre, terminating in
a rocky coast. The point is steep-to.

APPXJRAWAN. — Five miles to the north-eastward of Moorsom Head and
close to the southward of Long Point, is Appurawan roadstead, where a vessel
may obtain a few supplies, such as goats, fowls, vegetables, &c., from the
natives, who occupy small farms, scattered over a considerable tract of
country inland, and which are approached by a small river that disembogues
on the South side of Appurawan Head, IJ mile from Long Point.

Appurawan is the southernmost of the Christian settlements on this side
of Palawan, the natives being chiefly Baquit people, and holding no inter-
course with the Malays to the southward. They cultivate rice, maize, sweet
potatoes, tobacco, cotton, in small quantities.

Anchorage. — The best anchorage is westward of Appurawan Head, in 17
or 18 fathoms, stiff mud and shells, about 2 miles from the shore, with the
extremity of Long Point bearing N.E.

ANIPAHAN PEAK. — East of Long Point are two remarkable sharp
peaks, of nearly equal elevation (the northernmost, called Anipahan, being
the sharper), from which small table spurs project ; they are connected with
Long Point by a gradual slope in the range, on which are some round-
topped hills, usually visible when the more elevated land is capped. There
is a deep valley to the northward, overlooked by a sharp shoulder 3,606 feet
above the sea, which is the commencement of another central range broken
up into summits of various configuration, extending to Ulugan Bay.

MOUNT STAVELY.— The most remarkable of these are Mount Stavely,
3,930 It. high (a needle peak rising from the centre of a small table sum-
mit immediately to the northward of the sharp shoulder), and two dome-
shaped mountains farther northward. The latter, the southernmost, called
Thumb Peak (^4,260 It.) is the highest part of the range, and has a knob on
it ; the other. Mount Beaufort, has a small hollow in the highest part ; and
in the afternoon, when the sun is out, a conspicuous red slip, assuming the
shape of the letter V, will be seen on a slope in front of a peak to the south-
ward of these.

From Mount Beaufort the range gradually falls, and is again almost sepa-
rated between Mount Herschel and Mount Peel, a low ridge only connecting
them. Between the former there are two sharp peaks, the northern lying
more inland, and having a double hill in the hollow of the range between it
and Mount Herschel.

Mount Herschel is 2,316 feet above the sea, and has a smooth summit
filopiug to the south-westward.

NORTH AND SOUTH REEFS-ULUGAN BAY. 547

NOKTH and SOTJIH EEEF3.— There is a small bay on theNortli side of
Long Point, to the northward of which are two rocks lying parallel with the
shore a mile off. and IJ miles apart, with 17 fathoms between them. South
Reef is 20 ft. out of water and bold to approach, the soundings around it
being 18 and 20 fathoms ; North Reef is awash at high water. The depths
in the bay are 12 and 14 fathoms mud, and 20 and 30 fathoms off the
entrance.

There are some streams of fresh water in the above bay, but where the
bent flows the shore is fronted with coral, which extends 2 cables' lengths
from it, witli 3 and 4 fathoms close to the edge.

ANIPAHAN, about 10 miles N.E. of Long Point, is a small settlement of
Baquit people, where there are one or two huts, and a little cleared ground.
The shoie, 2 miles on either side of this point, is fronted by coral.

Hen and Cliickens. — Bluff Point, 12f miles N.E. of Anipahan Point, is
formed i>y a sjiur from Mount Herschel, and has a bay to the northward of
it, halfwaj' between which and Table Point, 6 miles beyond, is a small group
of islets and rocks called the Hen and Chickens, lying IJ mile from the
(shore, with 19 and 27 fathoms water between them and Sprat Point to the
eastward.

Mount Airyy a double-top summit lying at the foot of Mount Peel, over-
looks Hen and Chickens Bay, to the southward of which, between it and
Mount Herschel, the ridge is very low.

On the shore are numerous small sand bays, free from coral, with streams
of fresh water in some of them, the 'supply depending on the season.

Mount Peel, 3,600 ft. above the sea, rises immediately at the back of this,
and has an abrupt fall in the spur extending towards Mount Airy.

N.W. HEAD. — The coast towards Ulugan Bay is of a bold, rocky, barren
aspect, with several high cliffs ; and about 2J miles southward of N.W.
Head is a remarkable square grayish patch. The whole shore is bold to
approach, having 17 and 20 fathoms close to. ^

ULUGAN BAY (called by the natives Banog), on the eastern side of N.W.
Head, is 3 miles wide at the entrance between Cordelia Point and Broken
Head, and formed by a deep indentation in the land 8 miles in a southerly
direction, half severing the island of Palawan. The coast on the northern
part of the eastern shore of the bay is bold, cliffy land, and of reddish barren
aspect. Sanghowen, the North peak, 1,816 ft. high, has a small table summit
when seen in a south-easterly direction, and two sharp nipples on the brow
in front of it. Bentoan, immediately to the southward, and separated from
it by a low woody valley, which forms the back of the watering bay, rises to
an elevation of 1,730 ft,, is sharp, when viewed as above, and has a lower
range adjoining it to the southward with four distinct summits.

Three-Peaked Island, or Ca-muug-yan, the highest summit of which is

6<S PALA.WAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

140 ft. above the sea, lies N. f E., U miles trom N.W. Head, the northern
extremity of the peninsula forming the western side of Ulugan Bay.

A rocky ledge, consisting of sand and coral, extends a mile to the south-
ward of Three-Peaked Island, almost across the passage, on which the
average depth is 9 and 12 fathoms, with 19 and 25 fathoms at 2 cables'
lengths on either side of it. N.N.E. I E., distant U cables from the highest
peak of Three-Peaked Island, is a rock which generally shows, with one
visible only at low water, half a cable's length to the northward of it.

Reeta Island. — The western shore of the bay is undulating higli land,
with three inlets, and is fronted by Eeeta Island, 1^ mile long. North and
South, and barely more than a cable wide in any part ; it has a detached
rocky head at its northern extreme, 45 ft, in height, called Observatory Rock,
in lat. 10° 6' 11" N., long. 118° 46' 26" E., part of the base of which shows
white on entering the bay. Off Observatory Head, rocky ground, with 5 and
7 fathoms on it, extends in a northerly direction about 2 cables' lengths.
The eastern shore of the island is steep-to, having 19 and 20 fathoms within
a cable's length of the coral, which fringes it. A reef, dry at low water,
extends nearly a cable's length off Tide-pole Point, the southern extremity
of the island ; the edge of the reef is generally well defined by the dis-
colouration of the water.

The channel to the westward of Eeeta Island is about 3 cables wide, and
has 13 and 17 fathoms in it, but abreast of South inlet it is choked with coral
patches, having 9 and 10 fathoms between them. In heavy northerly galea
this channel appears to break across.

Magsiapo Reef, having some spots of only 10 and 12 ft. water on it, extends
6 cables westward and north-westward of Reef Islet, lying nearly 2 cables
off Marabay Point on the eastern shore, and has its outer edge one mile
from the southern part of Reeta Island. S.S.W. ^ W. If mile from Reef
Islet is the centre of a rocky patch, more than half a mile in extent, upon
which the sea generally breaks at low water. The high nipple (1,254 ft.) on
the brow of Sangbowen open of Broken Head, bearing N. f E., leads on the
western edge of this. It is, however, too far up for vessels to approach, as
the head of the bay is lined with reefs, which project in some places upwards
of half a mile from the shore. The above mark also just clears the Mag-
siapo Reef, and is a good guide to keep vessels to the westward when working
out of the bay until they are past the entrance to Tagnipa Inlet.

Oyster Inlet, the southernmost inlet on the western shore, has its entrance
6 cables to the S.W. of Tide-pole Point, and runs back If miles in a W.N.W.
direction, being separated from the coast outside by a low ridge 2 cables
wide. Reefs, which project from both points, contract the channel at the
entrance to one quarter of a mile in breadth ; they also fringe the shore
inside to the extent of one cable's length, gradually increasing towards the
head of the inlet, where a bank of mud and rocks runs off half a mile, on

ULUGAN BAY. 549

which good oysters may be found. There are 19 fathoms at the entrance,
■which depth gradually decreases over a stiff, muddy bottom to 9 fathoms,
close to the reef at the head of the inlet.

The two small inlets to the northward of Oyster Inlet are shoal.

East, distant 3^ cables from Coral Point, on the South side of the entrance
to Oyster Inlet, and south-westerly nearly three-quarters of a mile from
Tide-pole Point, are some small detached coral patches, nearly awash at
low water.

Cai-ho-lo and Ba-he-lee Rivers. — Two small rivers disembogue near the
S.W. corner of Ulugan Bay, and in the rainy season have fresh water very
near their entrance. Cai-ho-lo Eiver breaks through the mangrove between
the high ranges of Car-so-glan and Cai-ho-lo, l.| mile to the southward of
Oyster Inlet. It is navigable for boats about half a mile, where a good
stream of water is generally running, but owing to the extensive reefs which,
line the bottom of the bay, neither this nor the Ba-he-lee Eiver forms an
eligible watering-place. The Ba-he-lee has a small islet at its entrance,
which is S.E. by S. ^ mile from the mouth of the Cai-ho-lo, and is navigable
for boats about Ij mile. A short distance beyond this is a small farm on
some rising ground, occupied by a few natives from Baquit, who collect prin-
cipally bees'-wax, and cultivate the land in a small way.

Between the two rivers is a small islet called Tara-cai-a-wan, nearly half
a mile to the southward of which is a white rock, and though small, thia
generally forms a conspicuous object after entering the bay.

The Soundings in Ulugan Bay are from 30 to 35 fathoms at the entrance,
gradually decreasing towards the bottom of the bay to 12 fathoms, green
mud, close to the edge of the reef.

The Anchorage in Ulugan Bay is at the southern extremity of Eeeta
Island, off the entrance of Oyster Inlet, in 20 fathoms, stiff mud. No expe-
rience was had of the anchorage in the northerly monsoon. During westerly
gales the swell sets home to the bottom of the bay, breaking heavily upon
the reefs, especially on the eastern shore. In the month of November,
during one of these, which shifted to the N.W., H.M.S. Royalist, riding
with a whole cable at this anchorage, was at times pitching forecastle under.

Water.— Goodi water can be obtained in a small bay, with a stony beach,
to the southward of Sangbowen, N. by E. ! E. 4J miles from Observatory
Eock, and E. by N. of Three-Peaked Islet. It is not, however, practicable
to land there at all times, for, except in fine weather, a heavy swell usually
sets into it. The anchorage also is unsafe, having 30 fathoms as close to the
shore as it would be prudent for a vessel to lie, and from which it might b©
difficult to weigh with a westerly wind.

Caution. — Sailing vessels being compelled to water here, should not anchor
nearer than one mile to the shore ; and they should be prepared to weigh

550 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

on the sliglitest indication of a westerly wind, as the swell is liable to come
in suddenly.

The Eoyalist, while at anchor off this bay in the month of November, was
caught in a strong westerly wind which brought in a heavy swell, and with
difficulty escaped clear, being obliged to slip her cable.

Durin"- the fine season, i.e. from April to July or August, fresh S.E. winds
usually blow over the low land at the bottom of the bay ; and in calm
weather swarms of butterflies are constantly crossing the bay from the eastern
shore.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Ulugan Bay at Q*" 30"" a.m. ;
low water at S*" 30™ p.m. ; maximum rise (occurring generally three days
after), 51 ft.

No perceptible current was observed in the bay, except after heavy
raine, or when westerly winds have prevailed, when there is a light out-
draught.

Directions. — Vessels bound to Ulugan Bay, or any of the harbours of
Palawan to the northward, should conform to the directions given for
navigating the Palawan Channel, and ought not to attempt, except under
favourable circumstances, to cross the bank to the southward of the parallel
of 10° N.

If coming from the southward, it is recommended to be near the edge of
the bank at daylight, with Mount Peel bearing about E. by S., when Three-
peaked Island, at the entrance of Ulugan Bay, will bear E. J N., distant
about 37 miles. Approaching in this direction, the bay will be readily re-
cognised when a considerable distance off by some high rugged land, and a
remarkable dome-shaped hill called St. Paul, just seen over a lower range,
forming the North point of the bay. At the back of this a very sharp peak
rises, named Cleopatra Needle, being the southernmost and highest of a
range extending 5^ miles in a north-easterly direction. To the southward
and nearer than the above is Mount Peel, already noticed, comparatively an
isolated mountain, sloping gradually from the summit to the base, situated
S.W. 4 miles from the bottom of the bay, and S. by W. ^ W. 10 miles from
Three-peaked Island.

Approaching from the northward the bay is more readily distinguished,
apparently by a complete separation between Mount Peel and the high land
to the south-westward of the Cleopatra Range, the low land at the bottom of
the bay not being discernible until within a few miles of Cape Sangbowen.

If with a S.W. or westerly wind, pass to the southward of Three-peaked
Island, not borrowing too much on the Manabure shore,^where the vessel is
liable to be baffled under the land. Pass at a discretional distance to the
eastward of Reeta Island, in order to avoid being set towards the Magsiapo
Eeef, the western edge of which is cleared by keeping the high nipple, ou

ST. PAUL BAY— JIBBOOM BAY. 551

the brow of Sangbowen, to the westward of Broken Head, and proceed to
the anchorage.

ST. PAUL BAY. — Eastward of Cape Sangbowen, the north-western point
of Ulugan Bay, and separated from it by a low wooded valley, is Mount
Blomjidd, high table land, upwards of 2,000 ft. above the sea, with several
small nipples on the summit, and steep watercourses down the side, termina-
ting in a bold barren-looking coast, immediately to the eastward of which is
St. Paul Bay.

Overlooking the bay on the Sonth are some ver}' remarkable dome-shaped
hills and perpendicular cliff's of limestone formation, the most conspicuous of
which is St. Paul, 3, .'370 ft. above the sea, from which the bay derives its
name. To the eastward of this is a range, called by the old navigators the
Four Peaks, of which Cleopatra Needle, 5,200 it. in height, is the southern-
most and highest.

The second peak from the North is 4,730 ft. above the sea, and has a
Bmall slip close to the summit.

Cliff Head, bearing N.E. ^ E., distant 9^ miles from Cape Sangbowen, and
forming the northern extremity of St. Paul Bay, is a long wooded promon-
tory, terminating in an abrupt fall, 350 ft. above the level of the sea.

The shore of St Paul Bay is bold to approach, having 7 fathoms near the
points, and from 12 to 16 fathoms (fine sand and shells) in the centre.

JIBBOOM BAY, the upper part of which is an indentation in the land
running 3 miles in a north-easterly direction lies to the northward of Cliff
Head. At the enti-ance, midway between the latter and Peaked Point, 4J
miles to the N.N.E., is a small group of islands and rocks, the centre and
largest of which, Bay Island, has a somewhat flat summit, and is 307 feet
above the sea. Opposite this group on the South side is a long point, with
deep sandy bays on either side, and a remarkable hill (2,015 ft. high), with
a nipple shoulder at the back. The shore of the bay is steep-to.

Shelter from N.E. winds will be found in 15 fathoms about three-quarters
of a mile to the southward and eastward of Bay Island group, with Zoe, the
easternmost islet, and Peaked Point, the northern extremity of the bay, in
line bearing N. f E. The channel to the northward of the group is a mile
wide, and practicable for vessels.

The Coast from Peaked Point (which has a detached rock about 100 feet
high close off it, with one smaller, 3J cables' lengths to the southward),
trends N.N.E. 2^ miles to a steep bold point, called Avialingat, at the foot of
■which is a nine-pin rock.

Prom this point the coast takes a sudden trend to the eastward, and off the
first point from it are two islands, called Cacbolo and Cabalas, which form
part of the western side of May-day Bay.

MAY-DAY BAY, immediately to the eastward of Cabalas and Cacbolo
Islands, affords excellent shelter in the S.W. monsoon, and is by far a more

552 PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

convenient anchorage for wooding and watering than any of those we have
described to the southward on this side of Palawan.

It is 3i miles wide at the entrance, between Cacbolo and Cacnipa Islands,
5J miles deep, and is formed on the eastern side by a long irregular-shaped
promontory, the continuation of a high range jutting out in a northerly di-
rection from the body of the island, eastward of which lies Port Barton.

Cacnipa or High Island lies off the extremity of the above promontory, and
is separated from it by a channel 4 cables wide, in which is Passage Eeef,
about 6 ft. out of water. The island is steep and bold, 1,050 ft. high, and
3^ miles in circumference, with two summits, the southern being the higher.
There is a remarkable thumb rock off the south-western point, and a peaked
rock lies 3 cables' lengths from the shore on the North face of the island.

In the south-eastern part of May-day Bay is a remarkable conical head,
with deep sandy bays on either side. The bay on the North side is irre-
regular in contour, and has 14 to 20 fathoms in it, while that on the South
aide has 19 and 20 fathoms at the entrance, and a similar but smaller
conical head in it, with some streams of fresh water breaking through the
beach.

The soundings at the entrance of May-day Bay are 25 and 27 fathoms,
sand and mud, gradually decreasing to 19 fathoms close to Conical Head.
The points in the bay appear to be steep-to, and there is no known danger
in it but what shows.

Water. — The watering place is at the head of a small cove, named Water-
ing Bay, 2 miles S.W. by W. of Conical Head. The best anchorage is in
19 fathoms off the entrance of this bay, almost midway between it and
Conical Head, with the tangents of Cabalas and Cacbolo Islands in line.
The stream falls from the rocks on the South side of the cove, just before
coming to the sand beach, where, at high water, or even at half tide, a boat
can go almost under it.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in May-day Bay, at 9^ 55°
a.m. ; low water at b^ 55" p.m. ; and the rise (only one observation), is 3^
feet.

BOAYAN, lying N.E. 3^ miles from Cacnipa Island, is an irregular-
shaped island nearly 5 miles in extent East and West, and 3^ miles N.N.E.
and S.S.W., being in some parts less than half a mile wide. Its north-
western extremity terminates in a bold conspicuous head, with a double
summit 725 ft. above the sea. The highest part of the island is about 910
feet in height, and near it is a flat double summit, apparently of the same
elevation.

Two islands lie from 3^ to 4 cables' lengths off Bluff Point, the south-
western extremity of Boayan. Shelter from S.W. winds will be found on
the N.E. side of Boayan, in about 15 fathoms.

Royalist Shoal is a coral patch with only 2 J fathoms over it, lying E.S.E.

PORT BAETON. 553

one mile from Saddle Island, with the summit of Cabalas open of the S.E.
Bide of Cacnipa Island S.W. i W.

AIBAGUEN, lying 3 miles nearly eastward of Cacnipa, and nearly 2i
miles South of the S.W. extremity of Boayan, is a leg-of-mutton shaped
island, 570 ft. high, and nearly U mile in extent, with a conspicuous red
stripe (land slip) on the N.W. side.

PORT BARTON. — Albaguen Island is the extremity and largest of a group
of islands stretching in a north-westerly direction from the eastern shore
across the mouth of a deep bay, and wiiich, together with tlie promontory
mentioned on page 551-2 as forming the eastern side of May-day Bay, en-
closes a spacious sheet of water, to which the name of Port Barton has
been given.

The entrance to Port Barton is between Riddle Point, the S.W. extremity
of Albaguen, and Bubon Point, the N.E. extremity of the promontory, which
is in lat. 10° 29' 19" N., lung. 119° 5' 37" E. From the latter point the
harbour runs 5^ miles in a southerly direction, and near its head is Endeavour
Island, three-quarters of a mile in length Korth and South, having "Wedge
Islet lying off its south-eastern face, halfu-ay to the shore. There is however
nothing to induce vessels to go beyond Middle Reef, nearly 3 miles within
the entrance, the harbour affording no eligible watering place, although
there are several streams in the mangroves which border the shore, which is
apparently rocky in that direction. The soundings at the entrance of the
harbour are about 25 fathoms, mud, decreasing gradually to 5 and 6 fathoms
close to the edges of the reefs which fringe the shore at the head of it.

If requiring shelter only in Port Barton, and in the S.W. monsoon, anchor
in the northern part of the bay in 20 fathoms, stiff mud. In X.E. winds
vessels wishing to seek closer shelter for repairs, &e., will find good anchorage
in 12 fathoms mud, farther to the eastward, South of the body of Capsalay
Island, care being taken in approaching it to avoid Capsalay Reef.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Barton, at 10'' 55'' a.m. ;
low water, 3^ So"" p.m. ; and the rise of tide 6 ft.

PAGDANAN POINT is a peninsular head of reddish aspect, nearly 2J
miles to the E.S.E. of the eastern extremity' of Buayan Island, and has Con-
fusion Rock, white, and about 40 feet high, lying 3 cables' lengths off it.
Niaporay Mand, 354 ft. above the sea, lies in the channel between Pagdanan
Point and Boayan, at half a mile from the latter; and S.E. by E. half a mile
from the nearest point of Niaporay is the southernmost of two coral patches,
which lie nearly in the centre of tlie channel. There are only 9 ft. over it at
low water. There is also a 2j-fathoms patch, but not so much in the way
as the above, lying E.N.E. half a mile from the summit of Niaporay Island.
Pagdanan Rock, the northern patch of coral just noticed as lying nearly in
X. ▲. 4 s

5M PALAWAN ISLAND, WEST COAST.

the centre of the channel, has 2J fathoms on it, with 7 and 10 fathoms close
to, and lies N.E. by N. one mile from the Niaporay Patch.

PAGDANAN BAY. — At 2A miles to the north-eastward of Capsalay Island
is Betbet Point, with a conical hill near, and a small islet of tlie swrne name
off it, from which a coral spit projects nearly two-thirds of a mile in a
W.N.W. direction.

At two-thirds of a mile in a north-easterl)' direction from Betbet Point is
Eeef Point, between which and Pagdanan Peninsula is PagdauHn l?ay, 2J
miles wide at the entrance, and about the same di>tance deep. Reefs lie off
the points in the bay, some to the extent of half a mile.

A. fresh water rivulet disembogues at the foot of a small green cliff i<land
in the centre of Pa^danan Bay; and there are also two others in the South
part near Squall Point

The soundings to the southward of Bonyan Island average about 24 fa-
thoms, mud. At the entrance of Pagdanan Bay there are 10 and \1 f.ithonis.
Vessels not wishing to go into Purt Bartun will find good shelter from S.W.
winds to the northward of Capsalay Island; and frum N.E. winds iu Pag-
danan Ba}'.

MOUNT CAPOAS, N.E. f N. 10^ miles from Bold Head (Boayan Island),
and in lut. 10° 48' lU" N., long. 119° lb' 56' E., is high talde-looking land,
3,;3oO ft. above the sea, wish a high and a low sharp nipple at the western
shoulder, and a conspicunus land-slip extending twu-thirds of the way from
the summit to the base, immediately under it.

IMURXJAN BAY has its limits formed by Boayan Island and Pagdanan
to the southward, and Emergenc}' Poifit, under Mount Capoas, to the north-
ward, and is about 12 miles wide at the entrance. Its eastern shore is
overlooked by a high range of hills, of which Buy Pe«k, nearly abreast of
Imuruan Island, is the most ccmspicuous. Farther to the southward over
Pagdanan Bay the range is lower and assumes a table ridge. Fi'om the low
neck of Pagdanan Peninsula the shore of the bay for 8^ ndles is almost one
continuous .>-and beach, and throughout the bay is l>old to approach, having
3 to 5 fathoms close to the beach. At th-e entrance the soundings vary from
20 to ;iO fathoms, mud.

Shelter from the N E. winds will be found to the northward of these
islands, near the foot of Mount Capoas, in 19 fathoms, mud; wiiere also a
tolerably good supply of fish may be obtained with the seine, on the sandy
beaches opposite.

CAPE CAPOAS, in lat. 10° 51' 38" N., long. 110° 12' 6" E., N. by E. J E.
16i miles from Bold Head, and nearly North of AVedge Island, is a bold
projecting headland with two summits, and the extreme western point of the
peninsula, on which the table mountain of that name is situated, which
bears from it S.E. J E. distant 5J miles.

Conflagration Hill.— N.N. W. A W. nearly 5 miles from Emergency Point,

INLULUTOC— MALAMPAYA SOUND. 555

and 2 miles to the south-eastward of Cape Capnaa, lying ofif one of the points
of the sfiveral buys with which the coast is indented, is a remarkable steep
conical island. It is named Conflagration ITill, from an accident having
occurred there, whicii proved fatal to one man, and nearly so to an officer
and part of a lioai's crew who werei nscending it for the purpose of making
observations, in consequence of the long grass having been inadvertently set
on fire.

Shelter from N.E. -winds may be found in the first bay to the eastward of
Conflagration Hill, about West of Low Mt)unt Capoas, a peak rising 1,560
feet above the sea, immediately to the northward of the table Mount Capoas,
and, next to it, the highest on the peninsula.

To the northward of Cape Capoas, for tJ miles to Diente Point, the sotith-
•western point of the entrance of Malampaja Sound, the c^ast is deeply in-
dented, the bottom of snuie of the bays being separated from thnse corre-
epimding to them on the opposite side of the peninsula and in Malampaya
SoUTid, by very narrow isthmuses.

INLULUTOC, the largest of these bays, 1| mile wide and 2^ miles deop,
lies nearly midway between Cape Capoas and Diente Point, and affords
good shelter in the N.E. monsoon. It is overlooked on the North by Saddle
Jim, l,0(iO ft. above the sea, which, together with Chinongah to the north-
eastward, f.)rm conspicuous objects to identify the locality. There are no
dangers likely to bring a vessel up in any of these bays but what are visible.
Outside, the coast is bold, rocky, and very precipitous m some places, with
deep water close to.

Anchorage — IVater. — The best place to anchor in Inlulutoc (the only eligi-
ble bay for vessels to enter) is on the North shore, U mile to the eastward
of "Wreck Head, a bold rocky cliff forming the North point of it, between
Teodore Point and Anchorage Island, in 15 and 16 fathoms, mud, with
Saddle Hill bearing about N. by W., where near the foot of it, at the head
of the bay, are two streams of fresh water.

MALAMPAYA SOUND, formed on the north-eastern side of the penin-
sula of Capoas, is about 19 miles deep in a south-easterly direction, varying
in breadth from 2 to iipwards of 4 miles in the broadest part. It is one of
the finest liarbours tliat can be desired, being aluKJst perfectly free from
hidden dangers, and cimtaining along its shores bays and deep recesses,
capable of giving close shelter to any class and number of vessels. The
entrance is occupied by Tuluran Island, leaving only a narrow channel on
either side, and at about 7 miles within the entrance the sound is contracted
by long projecting headlands from either shore, forming as it were a second
strait, containing several islands, which opens into an expanse of water 9
miles deep and 4 miles wide, called the Inner Sound, in which are the
Spanish settlements Pancol and Baulao.

Caution. — Merchant vessels entermg Malampaya Sound in the early part

556 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

of the S.W. monsoon, particularly in the months of May and June, should
be on their guard against pirates, for in Pirate Bay, 4 miles within the en-
trance, H M.S. EoyalisVs gig was nearly cut ofiF in May, 1851, by a fleet of
eight Illanon prahus on their annual marauding expedition.

Diente Point, the northern extremity of Capoas peninsula, is the western
limit of the principal channel leading to Malampaya Sound. Notch Islet,
176 ft. above the sea, lies immediately off it, and at IJ cable's length to the
northward of the islet is a reef of rocks awash.

Tulnran Island, occupying the entrance of Malampaya Sound, is 4 J miles
long. North and South, and \^ mile wide. Two sharp peaks, attaining a
hei"lit of 1,272 ft., rise in the body of the island, and there are several others
of considerable elevation on it ; Tuluran Table, the southernmost, being 1,033
feet above the sea, and not unlike Mount Capoas on a smaller scale. The
northern and western shores are bold, rocky, and precipitous in some parts,
with conspicuous watercourses here and there.

At the north-western point of the island is a remarkable peaked islet,
with two rocks awash a cable's length off it.

BLOCKADE STRAIT, the channel to the southward of Tuluran may be
said to have its entrance between Diente Point and Bold Head, a distance of
2\ miles. It takes a south-easterly direction, and at about 2 miles within
the above line of entrance is the narrowest part, 6 cables' lengths across.
Beyond this the strait is about a mile wide for \\ mile, when it opens into
the outer extensive portion of Malampaya Sound.

Entrance Beef. — N.N.E. i E. nearly two-thirds of a mile from Notch Islet,
off Diente Point, is a cluster of small rocks, of which one is a pillar rock,
called Entrance Reef. White Round Islet and Pyramid Rocks lie off the
western face of Tuluran Island. White Eound is small, 80 ft. above the
sea, and bears W. by N. nearly \\ mile from Bold Head, the westernmost
point of the island and nearest shore.

The Pyramid Eocks are 50 ft. out of water, and one-quarter of a mile in
extent N.E. and S.W. The highest rock lies N.N.E. nearly 2 miles from
White Eound Islet, and three-quarters of a mile to the westward of Triple
Head, the N.W. point of Tuluran.

The passage is safe between White Eound Islet and Pyramid Rocks, but
between the latter and Peaked Islet there is a coral patch with only 6 ft.
water on it, N.E. ^ N. one-quarter of a mile from the highest Pyramid
Rock.

Cone Islet and Largon Eocks. — A conical islet, 237 ft. above the sea, lies
in front of Bolalo Bay, on the South shore of Blockade Strait, and nearly
midway between Notch Islet and Parmidiaran Point, a small conical head
with a pillar rock over it and the South point of the narrowest part of
Blockade Strait. N. by W. \ W. one-quarter of a mile from Cone Islet, is
a smaller islet called Largon, from which rocks out of water extend one-

BOLALO AND PIEATE BATS. 657

third of a mile to the northwarfl, their outward extremity being E. by S. | S.,
nearly a mile from Entrance Eeef, with Malapina Island S.E. by E. ^ E.,
4^ miles.

BOLALO BAY. — There is a small bay immediately to the eastward of
Diente Point, and between its eastern limit and Parmidiaran Point, distant
If mile, is the entrance of Bolalo Bay, a deep inlet aflFording good shelter
from S.W. winds. It runs 2^ miles in a southerly direction, the bottom
being separated by a narrow isthmus from the North part of Inlulutoc Bay.
The width inside is about half a mile.

Chinongab, a very sharp peak, elevated 1,216 ft., with a small table ridge
adjoining it, rises at nearly two-thirds of a mile within the eastern shores of
this bay, and is the same distance form the shores of the bay to the north-
eastward, and Pirate Bay to the eastward.

ENDEAVOUR STRAIT, to the eastward of Tuluran Island, has its south-
ern entrance between Pillar Pock Point and Endeavour Point, rather more
than three-quarters of a mile to the E.S.E. The strait runs nearly North
and South, and is 6 miles in length, and barely a cable wide at the nar-
rowest part.

Coral fringes the shores on either side of the strait, and nearly in the centre
of a bay on the West side, immediately under Soutli Tuluran Peak, is a rock
awash at low water, with 10 and 12 fathoms all round.

Endeavour Strait ought not to be used by sailing vessels, as they are
sure to be baffled, especially in the Narrows, by the very high land on either
sider of it.

PIRATE BAY.— Between Blockade Strait and the second or inner en-
trance, the western shore of the sound has three deep bays, in each of which
the ground is quite clear, and excellent shelter is afforded from all winds ;
but the two southern bays have no watering places.

Pirate Bay, the northernmost of the three bays just mentioned, will be
found the most convenient to vessels not bound to Pancol, but merely re-
quiring shelter, or wood, or water.

Water. — The watering place, affording a good supply, is in the bottom of
Pirate Bay, almost immediately under Chinongab Peak.

Tenabian Island is 325 ft. above the sea, and nearly two-thirds of a mile
long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, the N.E. portion of the island having
an extreme breadth of nearly half a mile, and the S."\V. portion a regular
breadth of about a cable's length. The passage inshore of the island is 2
cables' lengths across, but there is a reef in it which covers.

Malapina Island, fronting the inner part of Blockade Strait, is small, 156
feet above the sea, and lies a mile to the eastward of Tenabian, with the
northernmost point of Tacbolo Island S. | E. 2^ miles.

Boat Rock. — A small rock of this name lies just within the entrance of

«58 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

N.E. Bay, E. | S. IJ ir.ile from the highest point of Malapina L4and, and
South nearly h^ilf a mile from the South point of N.E. Bay lalanJ.

TACBOLO ISLAND. — In the inner strait, which is about 2^ miles wide,
and 3^ miles long in a south-easterly direction, are several islands, the
poith- westernmost of which is Tacholo, 300 feet above the sea, partially
cleared, and nearly a mile in length N.W. and S E. It lies exactly in mid-
cliannel between the heads at; the entrance of the strait. Between it and
Passage Island on the East and Pnggnianan Point, a headland with a triple
summit 380 ft. above the sea, on the West, is the principal passage leading
into tlie Inner Sound.

Passage, Eniaran, and Durangan Islands.— Passage Island, the largest in
the strciit, is '6 miles in circumference, and is separated from the S E. point
of Tacbolo by a channel only 1 cable wide, in which there aro 5 fathoms,
and from Tuluan Hill, the middle point on the eastern shore, by a boat
channel, barely three-quarters of a cable wide.

A small islet, called Eniaran, with a fiat rock on the West side, lies close
off its western point, and off the western p -int of a small bay on the South
side of the island is a white roik called Balolo. Durangan, a round-backed
island o86 ft. above the sea, and rather more than half a mile in length
Eitst and West, with two small black rocks at the eastern extremity, occupies
the centre of the channel between the S.W. face of Passage Island and
Bululu Point, the northern extremity of a chain of hills projecting to the
northward from the southern shore of the strait.

The channel between Passage and Durangan Islands is nearly half a mile
wide, and contains the only danger (the Caucea Pock) we are aware of that
is not visible.

To the southward of Durangan the channel is the same width, and has
depths of 9 and 12 fa;homs, mud, in it; nearly in the centre is Colonhogop,
the westernmost of two small islands 4 cables' lengths apart in about an
E. by S. and W. by N. direction. Bartoc, the easternmost, has a reef ex-
tending half a cable's length from its south-western side.

Cancea Rock, the above-mentioned danger, consists of a coral ledge nearly
awash in some parts at low water, fronting the head immediately to the
westward of the small bay on the South side of Passage Island, from which
it extends nearly 2 cables' lengths with 11 and 12 fathoms close to its edge.
From its outer extremity, Flat Rock, off Eniaran Islet, is in line with
Chinongab Peak bearing N.W., and the outer black rock off the East end
of Durangan Islmd bears S.S.W. 5 W.

Mallaratone and Ibelbel Islands.— S.E. by E. i E. nearly a mile from the
East end of Durangan, and two-thirds of a mile southward of Canica Point,
the South point of Passage Island, is Mallaratone Island, lying N.E. and
S.W., in wliich direction it is nearly half a mile long, with an average

DAMAO, MALLAROIS, AND YINALO ISLANDS. 559

breadth of about a cable's length. A small white pillar rook lies nearly a
cable's Ifngth off its S.W. point.

Ibelbel l>land, about 2 cables in diameter, partialh* cleared, and having
a quantity of banibc.o growing upon it, is on the northern shore of the strait
at the ejitrarue of a bay ■of which Passa^ze I>lan I forms the West side. It
lies E. ^ S. three-quarters of a mile from Cajiica Point, and N.E. ^ E. about
tlie sniiip disfan'e fr^m MulLiratone I-land, witli dear channels between.

DAMO, MALLAROIS, and VL^'^ALO ISLANDS, on opposite sides and
marking the south-eastern limits of the strait, aieN.E. and 8.W., IJ niile
from each other. D.imao, 226 It. in heiyht above the sea, and nearly ihree-
■qnarters of a mile in extreme length N.W. and S E., is on the southern
•shore S.S.E. f E. three-quarters of a mile frnm M..ilriratone Island. A
peaked islet, 8i ft. high, lies off its northern extremity, and in the channel
a quarter of a mile wide, separating the island from a headland on the
South, are some small islets and rocks awash.

Malhirois Island, E. ^ N. nearly 1^ niile from the North p'unt of !Malla-
ratone, and S.E. by E. J E. three-quart'ers of a mile from Ibelbel, is 93 leet
above the sea, less tlian a cable in length, and has a precipitous cliff on the
South side, with some rocks detached from the East end.

There is a larger island called Vinalo lying 2 cables to the northward of
Malhirois, and the channel between them is safe.

ALLIGATOR BAY is the northernmost of two large bays on the southern
side of the strait, and, next to Pirate Bay, the n.ost convenient phice in the
sound for watering. Durangan and Palcocotan Islands are immediately off
the entrance, which ii between Green Head and lialulu Puint. Alligator
IsLtnd lies on the opposite side of the bay, South of the watering-place, and
to the south-eastward of it is a double cone island.

The soundings at the entrance of the bay are 10 and 12 ftithoms, mud,
decreasing gradually to 3 and 4 fathoms near the shore.

Water. — In the S.E. cnrner of the bay the main stream from Mount
Capoas discharges itself thiough some low ground, but the watering-place
is on the North shore of the bay, in the first small iudentatiun from Green
Head.

MALIPU BAY is separated from Alligator Ba}' by the chain of hills of
whicli Balulu Point is at the northern extremity, and it has its eastern limit
at Damao Island. A remarkable hunch hill (546 ft.) rises on the south-
eastern side of the bay, and on the western siiore is Chinicaran Island, with
an isthffjus head on the North face, the passage between which and the
shore has only 12 ft. water in the narrowest part.

M(junt Capoas and the adjacent hi^h land rise directly behind the.se bays,
and it was from the mouth of a small stream just to the westward of
Chinicaran Island that the party who ascended Capoas set out; keeping the
course of the main stream, they advanced by a steep granite gorge on the

560 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

face of the mountain, which is everywhere conspicuous from the North side
of the sound.

The soundings in Malipu Bay average about 8 fathoms in the north-western
part, 4 fathoms to the south-eastward, and these depths decrease gradually
to 2 fathoms towards the shores of the bottom of the bay.

PANCOL. — The Inner sound of Malampaya opens immediately beyond
Daraao and Mallarois Islands, and in a bay on the northern side, 1$ mile
from the latter, is the Spanish settlement of Pancol, prettily situated under
the high land, and fronted by a green isolated hill, 65 ft. high, on which is
built a stockade in lat. 10° 52' 9" N., long. 119° 22' 56" E. The natives are
exceedingly friendly, and for supplies it is certainly the best place on the
coast. A stream of fresh water runs on either side of the stockade hill, and
water can be procured, but not readily in ships' boats. Eish is plentiful.

Vessels can anchcr oflf Pancol in 3 fathoms, stiff mud, within a quarter of
a mile S. by W. of the stockade, or in deeper water farther off, as convenient,
the anchorage being perfectly safe in all seasons.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Pancol at Q^ 40"", and the rise
of tide is 6 ft.

The MALAMPAYA EIVER disembogues at the bottom of a shallow bay
on the eastern side of the sound 3 miles from Pancol. A high round island
■called Mrilootone, with a small conical head at the South end, and an island
on either side, lie across the entrance of this bay, leaving a channel into it
little more than 2 cables wide, in which there are only 13 ft. water. Off
the first point inside these islands is a white rock, and across the entrance of
the river is a line of stakes commanded by a small stockade in which a
guard is usually kept. At low water the mud dries considerably outside
this, nearly abreast of two small islands on the South side of the bay.

The river, which is navigable for boats about 2 miles, runs into the body
of the island in a south-easterly direction ; near its head is a good foot-path
leading to the village of Tai-Tai, on the opposite side of the island, a dis-
tance of 2 miles.

BAULAO, a settlement similar to that of Pancol, but smaller, is on the
eastern shore near the head of the sound, S.S.E. J E. nearly 6J miles from
Pancol. It, however, cannot be approached within 2 miles by a vessel
drawing more than 12 ft. water, as the sound shoals gradually from 3 fa-
thoms at 4 miles southward of Pancol to the head, where, at low water, the
mud dries out nearly to Bay or Bivouac Islet, a mile from the mangroves.

Immediately to the southward of Baulao, the hills at the head of the
sound on either side recede, and are separated by an extensive plain which
runs through the body of the island, almost to the opposite coast, some of
the water of which is discharged into Malampaya Sound by a river having
its outlet through the mangrove, close to Bush Head, nearly 3 miles South
of Baulau.

MALAMPAYA SOUND— DIRECTIONS. 561

There are several detached ranges on this plain ; on the West, those
overlooking Imuruan Bay, and in the neighbourhood of Port Barton are
recognizable.

The western shore of the sound to the southward of Damao Island is in-
dented by bays, all of which are shoal.

The average depth in the centre of the Inner Sound is 6^ fathoms, mud,
from which it shoals gradually on all sides, except towards the entrance,
where it deepens to 9 and 10 fathoms.

Alleged Banger— In an old MS. chart, which was seen at Tai-Tai, there
is a rock called Coloma, laid down nearly in the centre of the Inner Sound.
The late Captain Bate tried for three consecutive days to find it, without
success, and the people of Pancol and Baulao denied having any knowledge
of its existence. As near as could be ascertained from the Spanish chart,
the position of the rock is about 3 miles S. ^ E. of Pancol stockade.

The northern extremes of Mallarotone and Durangan Islands kept in sight,
will prevent a vessel going near this position.

Directions. — In making the entrance of Malampaya Sound from the west-
ward. Notch Islet shows conspicuously off Diente Point, White Pound Islet
will be seen, and on a closer approach the Entrance and Largon Eocks,
which are always above water, become visible. The best course is between
these rocks and White Pound Islet, the soundings in the neighbourhood of
which average about 30 fathoms, and the former may be passed on the
North side as near as convenient. With a southerly wind, they should be
kept close aboard to enable the vessel to fetch through the narrowest part of
Blockade Strait, or she is liable to be set over upon the northern shore by
shifts of wind from the high land about Chinongab. Having passed Parmi-
diaran Point, proceed just outside the small white rock in the centre of the
next bay, and the reef awash off the point under Lookout Hill, having 13
fathoms close to, may be shaved without danger ; then haul into Pirate Bay,
and anchor as convenient.

Entering the strait with a N.E. wind, pass on either side of White Round
Islet, and conform to the same directions as before, only keeping on the
Tuluran shore, but not too close, or the vessel is liable to be becalmed, from
the high land there rising more abruptly than on the South side.

The passage through the second strait into the Inner Sound is on the
S.W. sides of Tacbolo and Passage Islands, and in using it great care must
be taken to avoid the Cancea ledge of rocks under water between the latter
island and Durangan.

The Coast to the northward of Tuluran Island, at the entrance of Malam-
paya Sound, trends northward for nearly 5 miles, where, near Custodio Point,
the extremity of a promontory which forms the western shore of Bacuit Bay,
is a remarkable quoin hiU, 466 ft. above the sea. The intermediate coast is

I. A. ' 4

562 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

of a bold rocky aspect, with several land-slips appearing as vertical reddish-
looking stripes down the face.

Rugged Limestone Group From Custodio Point, the extremity of the

promontory above mentioned, a remarkable group of rugged islands, of
limestone formation, extends 8^ miles in a N.N.W. direction. The sides of
these islands present bare perpendicular clififs of every variety of tint, with
numerous stalactite caves, in which the edible bird's nest is sought. The
summits terminate in small clusters of needle peaks, and wherever it is
possible for vegetation to take root, they are luxuriantly clothed with foliage,
of which the pandanus predominates.

Guntao Islands.— North and South Gruntao Islands, the south-westernmost
of this group, lie North 8 J miles from White Pound Islet, at the entrance of
Malampaya Sound, and 4J miles to the westward of Custodio Point.

Vestacado Rocks, showing like two small boats, lie W. by S. f S. 1^ mile
from the opening between the Guntao Islands, and on this bearing the bold
head of Mantinloc appears in the passage.

Tapiutan, the outer island of the Rugged group, having its summit in
lat. 11° 12' 50' N., long. 119° 15' 18" E., lies 7 miles from the shore, and N.
by E. 5 miles from the Guntao Islands. It is nearly 2i miles long N.N.W.
and S.S.E., the highest part, which is round-topped, being 1,415 ft. above
the sea.

Matinloc Island. — East of Tapiutan, and separated from it by a channel
1^ mile long, but only 2 cables wide, in which there are 20 fathoms water,
is the northern half of Matinloc, an island formed by a very narrow ridge of
limestone, nearly 4| miles in extent, running in a N. ^ W. and S. ^ E. direc-
tion, and almost separated in three places by deep gaps.

The Horn, 1,250 ft. above the sea, rises nearly in the centre of the island,
and when viewed in a northerly or southerly direction, assumes the appear-
ance of its name, forming a most conspicuous and readily recognizable feature
on making the coast.

Ynambuyod Island.— Off the N.E. face, lying parallel with and separated
from Matinloc by a deep channel 1 mile wide, is another island, called
Ynambuyod, similar in feature but smaller, being only IJ mile long. Two
islets. Cliff and Crown, lie respectively 1^ and 9 cables off its northern ex-
tremity, with 17 and 20 fathoms between them. There is also a remarkable
rock lying one-quarter of a mile off its south-eastern face, called the Mush-
room, from its being poised on a narrow stem about one-third the diameter
of the whole base.

Miniloc Island lies to the eastward of the southern part of Matinloc, the
channel between, in which there are upwards of 25 fathoms, being Ij mile
wide. It is a remarkable high, rugged island, 3J miles in circumference,
with several summits and precipitous crags, the coast nearly all around
being broken up into sharp cliffy heads, and, on the South side, exceedingly

BACUIT BAY. 663

picturesque bays. On the N.W. face are two high, rocky islets, the south-
ernmost and largest of which is cleft in two to the water's edge.

Pacluyaban, Entalula, and Pangutasian Islands.— On the southern side
of Minoloc Island, nearly connected with it by a smaller island, which occu-
pies the passage, is Pacluyaban, also of limestone formation, and very pre-
cipitous. Between the latter island and Custodio Point are two islands ;
Entalula, similar in character to the above, and Pangutasian, of entirely
different feature.

Pangutasian Island has a double summit, and slopes gradually towards
the S.E. point, where there is a sandy tongue, from which a reef projects in
a south-westerly direction, contracting the channel between the island and
the Custodio shore, off which latter is Plat Eock, to 3 cables across. The
depth in this channel is 14 and 16 fathoms.

On the eastern face, 3 cables' lengths from Pangutasian, is Popolcan, a
limestone islet 310 ft. above the sea.

Guintungauan Island and Jip Rocks.— Guintungauan Island E. ^ S. 2j
miles from the South point of South Guntao, and W. by N. nearly 1^ miles
from Custodio Point, is a quarter of a mile long, and appears like a square
block when seen in a North and South direction.

The Jip Eocks are a lump of limestone, 95 ft. high, cleft in two, and lie
N.E. by N. half a mile from Guintungauan Island, and 1 mile to the west-
ward of Pangutasian.

Water. — A reef, which always shows, extends 1 cable's length from Cus-
todio Point, and in a small bay fronted with coral between it and Flat Eock,
is a stream of fresh water.

BACUIT BAY, formed partly on the West by the islands just described,
is 9 miles deep, and 3 miles wide at the entrance between Miniloc Island
and a limestone peninsula, the highest part of which, called Bacuit Peak, is
tolerably sharp, and attains an elevation of 1,500 ft. above the sea. The
eastern shore trends nearly North and South, and is overlooked by a high
range, extending in a northerly direction. This range, on which there are
some curiously shaped peaks, forms part of a great vein of mountain lime-
stone that here traverses the island in a north-easterly and south-westerly
direction, commencing on the West side of Palawan at Tapiutan and Cauayan
Islands, just embracing both shores of Bacuit Bay, and terminating on the
East coast at Old Castle Point and the islands fronting Tai-Tai Bay, alto-
gether a distance of 30 miles. The average breadth of the vein appears to
be about 7 miles.

There are several islands in the bay, all of which are precisely similar in
feature and character to the group outside.

Ynabuyatan and Malpacao Islands. — Ynabuyatan, the northernmost
island facing the eastern shore of the bay, is a very conspicuous object on

564 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

entering, being 1,130 ft. above the sea (somewhat resembling the appear-
ance of an elephant on its haunches), and nearly a mile in circumference.

Malpacao, a remarkable ridge of limestone, with a high boulder detached
from it, assuming the form of a double island, lies S.S.E. |- E. nearly a mile
from Ynabuyatan, midway between the southern point of this bay and
Lagen Island.

Lagen Island, 1,140 ft. above the sea, the southernmost and largest of the
three islands on the eastern side, is of irregular form, If mile in length
N.W. and S.E., and presents a bold cliffy shore, upwards of 400 ft. in per-
pendicular height, with several sandy bays.

Comocutuan and Dibuluan Islands lie on the western side of the bay. The
former, a small precipitous island rising 298 ft. above the sea, is S.E. by E.
1| mile from Pangutasian Island, and between it and the shore abreast, dis-
tant upwards of a mile, a spit projects 3 cables' lengths from an islet with a
white rock close to it. Dibuluan Island is S.S.E. ^ E. 2 miles from Como-
cutuan, and about midway between it and Lagen are three rocky islets, the
easternmost of which shows like a ninepin on entering the bay.

Manlalec is a small village, situated a short distance up a rivulet, half a
mile inside the southern point of the small bay, off which is Ynabuyatan
, Island, on the eastern shore of Bacuit Bay ; the approach is commanded by
a stockade at the entrance mounting three guns.

The old and now deserted village of Bacuit is in the extreme south-eastern
corner of Bacuit Bay, fronted by a mud flat, dry at low water.

Tides.— li is high water, full and change, in Bacuit Bay, at 10'' a.m. ; and
the rise of tide is about 6 ft. Little or no current has been observed in
the bay.

Directions The best channel for small vessels proceeding to Bacuit Bay,

if coming from the southward, is between Entalula and Pacluyaban Islands.
It is 6 cables wide, and has 25 fathoms in it, with 20 fathoms close to the
shore on either side.

The best anchorage in the S.W. monsoon is in 17 or 18 fathoms, stiff mud,
about a mile to the south-eastward of Comocutuan Island, off the first lime-
stone head ; but as neither fresh water nor supplies are to be had readily,
there is little inducement, except it be shoaler water, for vessels to go
farther up.

CADLAO, or Table Top Island, 2,000 ft. above the sea, lies immediately to
the N.W. of Bacuit peninsula, being separated from it by a channel barely
3 cables wide, in which there are 17 and 19 fathoms close to the points, and
it may almost be considered as a continuation of the North side of Bucuit
Bay ; while Tapiutan and Matinloc are regarded as forming the southern
extremity of it.

The island is 3£- miles in length, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, with
an average breadth of about half a mile, Its features are very remarkable,

CAUAYAN AND CAVEEN ISLANDS— BACUIT. 565

and it forms the most conspicuous object when making the northern end of
Palawan.

The table rises in the centre of the island, to the eastward of which, and
separated from it by a deep gorge, are two remarkable peaks, of nearly equal
elevation, called East and West Loggerheads. The island, especially on the
southern and eastern sides, exhibits all the characteristic features of the
contiguous group, some of the cliffs overhanging the perpendicular to a con-
siderable extent.

There is a bay on the North side of the island immediately under the table,
with an islet in it called Mitre ; and on the S.W. face, 4 cables distant from
the shore, is Ymbalaba Island, three-quarters of a mile in extent, North and
South, the channel between the two having 11 fathoms in it.

Shelter in N.E. winds may be found to the eastward of this island, South
of the table, in 16 or 20 fathoms, stiff blue mud.

CAUAYAN and CAVERN ISLANDS.— North of Cadlao, and separated
from it by a channel about half a mile wide, in which is a peaked islet, is
Cauayan Island, 827 ft. in height, and 1^ mile in extent about N.W. by N.
and S.E. by S. It is of similar formation to the neighbouring islands, but
has a more even summit.

On the N.W. face of Cauayan, and distant a quarter of a mile from it, is
Cavern, a small island, the extreme of the group. It is 3.30 ft. high, and
when viewed in an East or West direction has a tall pillar rock rent from the
North end.

Good shelter from S.W. winds is to be had on the North side of Cadlao,
off Mitre Islet, in 17 fathoms, stiff mud.

Tides.— It is high water at Cavern Island, full and change, at 9^ 30"" a.m. ;
low water at 5^ 30™ p.m. ; rise of tide (one observation only), 5^ ft.

BACTTIT. — Cadlao and the islands just described form the western side
of a deep bay, in the southern extreme of which is the village of Bacuit,
called also by the natives Ta-lan-dac, in a sandy bay on the North side of the
peninsula forming the northern extremity of Bacuit Bay. In 1851 it con-
tained a population of 200, exclusive of women and children, all Eoman
Catholics, under the jurisdiction of the Alcalde at Tai-Tai.

The soundings at the entrance of the bay, and off Cavern Island, vary from
20 to 30 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 12 and 14 fathoms to within half a
mile of the shore ; towards the village of Bacuit it shoals to 3 and 4 fathoms
close to the edge of the coral.

Supplies, such as goats, pigs, fowls, vegetables, &c., in a moderate way,
may be obtained from the natives, for which, as usual, they ask an exorbi-
tant price ; but a more equitable bargain may be made by giving articles of
wearing apparel, crockery, hardware, &c., in exchange.

AVater may be procured from a stream at the eastern end of the beach, but
not with any degree of facility.

566 PALAWAN ISLAND ; WEST COAST.

The Coast trends in a northerly direction from Bacuit for 8 miles to Craw-
ford Point. A central range, the continuation of that over Bacuit Bay, over-
looks both shores of Palawan, and in the parallel of Cadlao, where it attains
the greatest elevation, is a high table, the north-western and south-eastern
shoulders of which are IJ mile apart, and are respectively 2,055 and 2,230
feet above the sea.

There is a sharp peak, 1,630 ft. in height to the southward, and several
hills of less elevation bordering the coast, the features of which are entirely
different from those of the limestone formation, and this is nowhere so evi-
dent as at the back of Bacuit village, where a sudden transition occurs.

East peak, attaining a height of 1,890 ft. above the sea, rises 4 J miles to
the north-eastward of the high table, but it is not generally observable
from the West side until some distance off shore. It, however, forms a
conspicuous object when to the northward and eastward of the North end
of Palawan.

Emmit, a small wooded island, 170 ft. high, with two remarkable pillar
rocks at the North extremity, lies 2 cables' lengths off a projecting point,
midway between Bacuit and Crawford Point, and eastward of the channel
separating Cadlao and Cauayan Islands.

The coast to the northward, on which is a small sugar-loaf hill, is bold to
approach, having 6 and 10 fathoms close to the shore; but that to the
southward is fronted with coral, and should not be closed nearer than half
a mile.

Water. — Eocky ground extends half a mile from the point opposite Emmit
Island, and in the first bay to the southward of it was a rivulet of fresh
water in May, 1851.

NORTH COAST OF PALAWAN.— Abreast of Crawford Point the island
of Palawan is 8 miles wide, and from this, as well as Darcotuan Point, cor-
responding to it, on the East coast, the island gradually contracts, forming
at the northern extremity a promontory 3 J miles long, and 1| mile wide.
Near the termination of this is a hill 493 ft. above the sea, with some table
looking land of greater elevation to the southward.

Off the sandy beach, and N. by W. nearly one mile from Crawford Point,
are the Gemeles, two white looking rock islets ; and N. i W. 2J miles from
Crawford Point, and separated from the headland above mentioned by a safe
channel 1 J mile wide, in which there are 9 and 10 fathoms, sand, is Lalu-
taya Island, 1 J mile long, 407 ft. above the sea, and, except on the eastern
side, where fronting two small sand bays some coral extends 2 cables, is bold
to approach.

Biaphila and Calitan Islands. — Base Bay is immediately to the northward of
Pasco Inlet, off which, and 2^ miles N.E. by E. of Lalutaya, is Diaphila
Island, lying a mile from the shore, with a safe channel inside. Calitan
Island, 256 ft. in height above the sea, lies N. by E. | E. nearly 2 miles

PALAWAN ISLAND ; EAST COAST. 567

from the latter, and nearly half a mile westward of the northern extreme
point of Palawan. There is a sharp double rock between it and the shore.

On the South side of an indentation on the coast between these islands, is
North Hill, 965 ft. high.

Cahuli Island, the highest part of which is in lat. 11° 26' 25" N., long.
119"^ 29' 46' E., lies oil the North end of Palawan, and, except when seen in
a N.W. or S.E. direction, appears to form part of that island, the channel
separating them, in which there are 7 and 9 fathoms, being only 3 cables
wide. It is \h miles in extent from North to South, 560 ft. in height, and
has rather a flat summit, the northern extremity of the island terminating
in a small head, with 17 fathoms water almost alongside. It is also bold to
approach on all sides, the soundings in the immediate vicinity being about
20 fathoms.

EAST COAST OF PALAWAN ISLAND.

In giving sailing directions, and a description of the East coast of Palawan,
it is to be borne in mind, that, although we believe they will be found suffi-
ciently succinct and accurate to meet the ordinary requirements of navigators,
they are, nevertheless, but the result of a few observations hurriedly collected
in a run down the coast during the summer, and a beat up in the winter
months of 1850, taken with a view to ascertaining the practicability of adopt-
ing this route to China, in preference of the usual passage on the West side
of Palawan, when late in the monsoon. They are not, therefore, implicitly
to be relied upon, as resulting from a well-executed survey ; nor are they
intended in any way to lessen the necessity of keeping that vigilant look-out
which the navigation of coral seas, on all occasions, urgently demands.

The adoption of the regular Palawan Passage, in preference to the route
on the East side of the island, is recommended as the result of Captain Bates'
experience.

In the strength of the N.E. monsoon, vessels may, taking the latter route,
reach as far as the parallel of 10° N., or the island of Dumaran, without
very great difficulty ; but to get beyond this they will experience at least
considerable delay, even if they succeed at all, for the current in this season
sweeps strong to the southward, between Palawan and the Cuyos Islands,
the velocity being almost in direct proportion to the strength of the wind.
H.M.S. Royalist, in the month of December, was delayed 15 days, vainly en-
deavouring to get round Dumaran against the monsoon, and had, after all to
make the passage into the China Sea, via Panay and Mindoro.

The currents on the East coast depend chiefly on the prevailing winds.

The flood tide sets along the shore to the southward, and the ebb to the

568 PALAWAN ISLAND ; EAST COAST.

northward. The maximum velocity observed was 1^ knots, and the rise
7 feet.

The Coast to the northward of Bugsuk Island (page 538) has been only
partially surveyed ; and that part between Eawnsley and Madripore Points,
a distance of 5 miles, is merely sketched in, and no soundings have been
taken near it. It is low, consisting chiefly of mangrove.

At 2J miles beyond Madripore Point is Deception Point, and at 5 miles
farther to the eastward is Church Point, having two wooded hills to the
N.E., and a reef which dries off \\ mile to the S.E. In the coast between
the latter points are two openings, with 4 and 6 fathoms water in them.

URSULA ISLAND, in lat. 8° 20' 42" N., long. 117° 29' 56" E., lies with
the North point of Bugsuk bearing East 12^ miles, and Church Point N. by
"W. 9| miles. It is one-third of a mile in length, lew, covered with wood,
and surrounded by sand. The South side is steep-to ; but a reef, dry at low
water, extends from the northern half of the island, nearly a mile in a N.E.
direction.

N.W. by W. 2j miles from the summit of Ursula Island, is a 2^-fathoms
coral patch ; and there is also one with apparently very little water, N. f E.
4f miles from the same, the soundings between varying from 14 to upwards
of 40 fathoms. Vessels should keep outside Ursula Island.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Ursula Island, at ll*", and the
rise of tide 7^ ft.

Wright Shoal, discovered by the Rifleman in 1868, is a dangerous coral
patch, having but 1|- fathom on the shoalest part; it lies E. J S. 9 miles
from Ursula Island, and is in lat. 8° 19' 17" N., long. 117° 38' 25" E. ; the
shoal water extends, under a depth of 10 fathoms, \l miles East and West,
and is half a mile broad. This danger lies in the direct track of vessels
proceeding between Balabac and Mindora Straits.

Reef Island. — N.W. ^ N. 7f miles from Ursula Island, similar to it in
character, and oj miles from the shore, is Reef Island, from which coral pro-
jects in every direction ; that to the eastward, to the extent of If mile, where
a bank dries at low water.

PIRATE ISLAND, less than 2 cables in extent, lies N.E. I E. 5^ miles
from Church Point, and \^ mile from the shore. A reef extends nearly three-
quarters of a mile from it in an E.S.E. direction ; and there is a patch of
coral with 3 fathoms over it, lying S.S.W. % W., nearly a mile from the
island.

ROCKY BAY is immediately under the Panalingahan range, noticed pre-
viously, and has its southern limit about 5^ miles N.N.E. of Church Point.
Three small rivers disembogue on the western shore of the bay, the northern-
most of which has some houses near the entrance, probably a piratical esta-
blishment.

Outer Four-Fathoms Patch.— The shoalest and outermost of the coral

TAC-BO-LU-BU. 569

patches that has been discovered has 4 fathoms on it, and lies with Pirate
Island W. by N 6 miles ; Ursula Island S.E. § S. ; Church Point E. by S. ;
Wood Hill, the northernmost and highest of the three that overlook the
Pirate Island shore, W. by N, | N., and Mantaleengahan Mountain, N. ^ E.

Gull and Egg Sands, nearly 2 miles apart, with dry patches on them, lie
in the entrance of Eocky Bay ; the former N.E. by E. J E., 2 J miles, and the
latter N.E. | E. nearly 4| miles from Pirate Island When inside these sands
the depths decrease gradually from 22 to 4^ fathoms, stiflf mud, towards the
head of the bay.

Oflf the reef that lines the western shore of the bay there are some rocks
and dry sand patches, the largest of which, a mile in extent, lies 2 miles
North of Pirate Island, and one mile from the shore.

Segyam Islands are two low islands connected with the shore at the N.E.
point of the bay, and have reefs near them, the largest patch lying S.S.W.
6 cables' lengths from the westernmost island, with 8 and 10 fathoms close
to it.

Caution. — Vessels having no object in coming into Eocky Bay should not
close this part of the coast nearer than 6 miles.

The Coast from the Segyam Islands trends about E.N.E. for 13^ miles to
Sir James Brooke Point, thence about N.E. by E. for 12f miles to Nose
Point, which is low and wooded, with a small hill at the back of it ; the in-
termediate land is a low, densely wooded plain, well populated, with several
cultivated spots, and overlooked by the high range of Mantaleengahan. The
coast is slightly indented, and bold to approach to half a mile, the soundings
when that distance from it being about 6 fathoms. Several streams of fresh
water flow into the bays, and some of the points have projecting reefs ; that
off Nose Point extending the farthest ofl', a distance of nearly half a mile.
Three miles S. W. by W. I W. of Nose Point is a reef awash half a mile from
the shore.

TAC-BO-LTJ-BTJ, in lat. 8° 43' 21" N., long. 117° 44' 26" E., and about 7^
miles E.N.E. of the Segyam Islands, is a Malay settlement, and the district
over which a Datoo presides. It appears to be well populated. Goats,
sweet potatoes, and fruit in small quantities may be obtained ; and also water
from a rivulet in fine weather, when there is no surf on the beach. There is
anchorage in the roadstead oflf the settlement in from 1 2 to 16 fathoms, stiff
mud, about a mile or upwards from the shore, with Mantaleengahan Moun-
tain bearing N.W. by N., and Addison Peak, a remarkable thumb shoulder
at the end of a spur, N. by E. Eeefs project 3 cables off both the points
forming the bay.

There is also another Malay establishment at Prahu Point, about 8 miles
to the N.E. It was not visited by the RoyalisVs boats.

The soundings, when from 3 to 4 miles off the coast between the Segyam
l.A. 4 D

570 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

Islands and Nose Point, vary from 20 to 30 fathoms mud, deepening as the
latter point is approached, with patches of 6 and 8 fathoms, coral, occa-
sionally.

EAST ISLAND, the N.W. extreme of which is in lat. 8° 53f' N., long.
18° 13' 56" E., is a low coral island nearly half a mile in extent, covered with
trees, visible about 12 to 15 miles off, and has a reef extending from the
eastern side, on the extremity of which is a small bush half a mile from the
island. There is no anchorage near it, the depths in the immediate vicinity
being upwards of 100 fathoms.

Cumi-Cumi Island. — The Rifleman passed within 3 miles of the position
ascribed to an island of this name in lat. 8° 57' N., long. 118° 39' E., proving
what had long been believed by seamen familiar with the navigation of the
Mindoro Sea, that no island exists there. East Island, 24 miles W. by S.
of the above position, just previously described, was plainly visible at a
distance of 20 miles, and is the only off-lying island in the locality.

The Coast from Nose Point trends N.N.E. J E. about 11 miles to Crawford
Cove, which is a mile deep, and has 5 fathoms at the entrance. Davie Hill
overlooks the shore at nearly 2 miles to the southward, and on the North side
of the cove is a tree hill, the southern extremity of a coast range.

Immediately to the northward of Crawford Cove are several low coral
islands fronting the shore, giving rise to the name of Island Bay to this part
of the coast.

ISLAND BAY has been only partially sounded ; but sufficiently so, how-
ever, to ascertain that several shoal patches exist, and that, close in, it is
hazardous for vessels to navigate. It corresponds with Tay-bay-u on the
opposite side of the island, the distance across being about 9 miles.

The plain intervening is cultivated in many parts, and broken up into
several detached hills of conical form, at the back of which the deep saddle
hill of Pu-lute, and Step Cliff on the Ma-la-nut range, are conspicuous.

Eelief Point, in the N.E. part of the bay, is in lat. 9° 9' 45" N., long. 118°
12' 1" E., and from it coral ground, on which there are patches of 3 ft. and
12 ft., extends 1^ mile to the S.W.

Water. — There is a fresh water rivulet at half a mile to the N.W., or
within Relief Point.

Gardiner, Bessie, and Reef, three low islands, upwards of a mile from each
other, lie in a N.E. direction from Crawford Cove more than a third of the
distance across Island Bay. Eeef Island, the north-easternmost, has its
eastern side surrounded by coral, which dries half a mile from it, and has
14 fathoms very near the edge.

Another group of islands and sand-banks lies in-shore and to the north-
ward of these, fronting the bottom of the bay ; the depth of water between
and around them is 6 and 7 fathoms.

FLAT AND SAND ISLANDS. 571

On the N.E. island of the in-shore group is the ruin of a Mahomedan
temple.

Two and a Half Fathoms Patch lies nearly midway between Eeef Island
and Eelief Point, and 3 miles off shore, with the North extreme of Eeef
Island a little open of Coast Hill, which rises close to the shore at 1| mile
North of Crawford Cove, bearing W. by S. f S. ; Steep Cliff, on Ma-la-nut
range, W. by N. | N. ; and the Button, a bush islet near the shore, N. | W.

The Coast from Eelief Point trends in a straight line 6 miles in an easterly
direction to Bivouac Point, where a good stream of fresh water breaks
through the shingle. There is a rock awash nearly midway between the two
points at half a mile from the shore.

In front of this part of the coast, at 3^ miles from the shore, is a 3-
fathoms coral patch, with depths of 15 and 16 fathoms, mud, inside it, and
which lies with Bivouac Point N.E. ^ N., 4^ miles ; Eelief Point, N.W. |
W., 4^ miles ; Table Shoulder, the southern termination of the Victoria
Eange on this side of the island, immediately overlooking the coast N. by
W. I W. ; and the North extreme of Eelief Island, nearly in line with
Coast Hill, W. by S.

The soundings off Island Bay, and between it and East Island, vary from
20 to 40, and upwards of 100 fathoms, with rocky patches here and there of
6, 7, and 12 fathoms.

FLAT ISLAND, lying 6 J miles E.N.E. of Bivouac Point, is 12 miles in
extent. North and South, low, and covered with trees. It is separated from
a sandy tongue projecting from Casuarina Point on the main, by a channel
4 cables wide, in which there are 8 fathoms. On its N.E. face a coral spit
runs off nearly half a mile.

Together with the main land, a small bay is formed on the western side of
the island, where good shelter from N.E. winds may be found in 5 and 6
fathoms, mud, with Crawford Point, the S.W. extremity of Flat Island,
bearing S.E., and Emmeline Island, the southernmost of some small islands
just detached from the opposite shore, S.W. by W.

Emmeline Island is bold to approach, but off Crawford Point the reef,
which fronts the South and western shores of Flat Island, extends 4 cables,
and has 8 and 9 fathoms close to the edge.

A reef commencing at the sandy tongue, projects 6 cables' lengths to the
southward of Casuarina Point, close to which there are 8 fathoms.

Casuarina Point is in lat. 9^ 15' N., long. 118^ 24' 16' E.

Caution is necessary in going into this bay, as it has been only partially
sounded. No watering place was found in it.

Tides. — It is high water in this vicinity, full and change, at midnight, and
on the following day at 9'' SO"' a.m. Eise of tide 6f ft.

SAND ISLAND lies E. i N. 5 miles from Casuarina Point, and 3^ miles
from the nearest part of Flat Island. It is one-quarter of a mile in extent,

572 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

CDvered with wood, and surrounded by a reef, dry at low water, which, on
the eastern side, extends half a mile from the island, with from 6 to 12
fathoms close to the edge.

The soundings outside Flat and Sand Islands vary from 20 to 40 fathoms,
mud ; in their immediate vicinity the depths are 10 and 12 fathoms, mud,
decreasing gradually to the shore. Shoaler casts, such as 6 and 7 fathoms
of sand and coral, here and there, may always be anticipated.

S.W. I W., distant 1^ mile from the centre of Sand Island, is a 5J-fathoms
patch of coral, with 14 fathoms, mud, on either side.

30th of June Island, lying N.E. by N. 8| miles from Sand Island, and 2^
miles off shore, is similar in aU respects to Sand Island, the reef on the East
side extending only 4 cables' lengths.

21aUhy Island, nearly as large, and of the same description as Elat Island,
lies 4 miles to the N.N.E. of the 30th of June Island, being separated from
the shore by a channel one mile wide, but which has not been sounded.

Two dry sand-banks with reefs lie between these islands, the depth of
water in the vicinity being from 4 to 7 fathoms, and there is a reef awash
N.W. three-quarters of a mile from 30th of June Island.

A rocky spit also extends 4 cables' lengths from the S.W. point of Maltby
Island.

The Coast opposite these islands partakes of the same features as that
farther to the southward, being low and thickly wooded. Victoria Peak,
5,680 ft. above the sea (page 545), overlooks it, and the mountain range,
which presents some deep gorges and picturesque valleys, is fronted by an
extensive and deeply wooded plain, the hills not approaching the sea until
near Table Head, which is low, and nearly 12 miles N.E. by N. of Maltby
Island. On the North side of Table Head is a small inlet for boats.

"Village Bay, in which are a few huts, 2 miles to the northward of Maltby
Island, is small, and a coral patch, 6 cables in extent, N.W. and S.E., occu-
pies its centre. Off the South point of the bay are two islets connected with
the shore by a reef, and a reef fronts the coast for a mile from the point on
the North side.

Water. — There is a good fresh water stream 5 miles to the south-westward
of Table Head, and 2 miles to the southward of S.W. hill, near where the
range forms part of the coast line.

The Soundings off this part of the coast are exceedingly irregular.

East, 6 miles from 30th of June Island, there is a bank of sand and coral
upwards of 5 miles in extent, on which the least water that has been dis-
covered is 6^ fathoms ; immediately outside there are no soundings with 80
fathoms ; the depths inside the bank vary from 12 to 20 fathoms.

Three and a Half Fathoms Patch. — Rocky ground also extends in a northerly
direction from this bank, where, at the extremity, is as little as 3J fathoms,
perhaps less. This patch lies East of Village Bay about 2^ miles from tlie

PORT ROYALIST— E-WI-IG RIYER. 673

shore, and from it the south-eastern extreme of Mai thy Island bears S.W.
^ S. ; the huts in Yillage Bay, W. | N. ; Dome, a conspicuous hill on the
ridge which connects Table Head with the Yictoria range, N.W. by W. i W.,
and Table Head, N. by E. | E.

At li mile to the eastward of this patch there is no bottom with 120
fathoms, but at 4 miles to the north-eastward of it there are 105 fathoms
water, 2J miles from the shore, with 30 fathoms immediately inside. The
bottom is distinctly visible when on these banks.

PORT ROYALIST has its entrance 4i miles north-eastward of Table
Head ; and Tide-pole Point, the inner extreme point of low land on the
North side, is in lat. 9° 43' 43" N., long. 118== 43' 11" E. It is formed in an
extensive densely wooded plain, fronting a high mountain range to the
S.W. of ]\Ii)unt Peel, of which Mount Beaufort and Thumb Peak (page 546)
are conspicuous. The latter, when seen from the S.E., appears a remarkable
steep conical mountain, with a knob on the summit, and it hears N.W. by
W. ^ W. from the entrance of the harbour. The entrance is a strait nearly
3 miles long and 2 miles wide, in a W.N.W. direction, being almost at right
angles to the prevailing winds in both monsoons.

Coral spits project from both the outer points, -which contract the channel
at the entrance to 1 mile in width. The South spit extends 7 cables' lengths
from the shore; while the North projects only 4 cables, and parts of both
dry at low water.

The reefs forming these spits extend along the coast outs^ide, and have
12 and 13 fathoms close to the edge ; that on the North has several dry
patches.

In the strait the depth is 25 fathoms, m.ud, which decreases as the head of
the harbour is approached to 4 and 5 fathoms close to the reef

There are two inlets on the South side of the strait ; the eastern has a
rock at the entrance lying olf a red cliff, which when first seen may be easily
mistaken for some native huts. The western and largest is upwards of 1^
mile deep, and has a coral spit projecting nearly 4 cables' lengths from
Heron Point, its North entrance point.

There is deep water in both these inlets, but their entrances are very
much contracted by coral.

From the inner part of the strait the harbour extends 3 miles in a northerly
direction, and is 2 miles wide. The North and western shores are chiefly
mangrove, the former being broken up into bays and inlets, all of which
are shoal and fronted with coral.

E-wi-ig River disembogues on the western side of the harbour, to the
northward of apparently a deep mangrove ha.j, and has a small island at the
entrance, W. by N. 2 miles from Tide-pole Point.

This river is navigable for boats about 2| miles ; half a mile farther up is
a small village, which in 1850 contained about forty or fifty persons, chiefly

574 PALA.WAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

Bysayans, carrying on a small traffic, beeswax, rice, maize, &c , with, some
of the contiguous settlements. They were quite harmless, and willing to
give ships supplies, but unable to do so, being in a wretched state of poverty
and filth.

After heavy rains the river is fresh almost at the entrance ; but in the dry
season boats must go some distance up to get the water good.

Mud dries at low water nearly three-quarters of a mile from the entrance,
through which are two boat channels diverging from either side of the island
at the mouth of the river.

Harbour Island lies off the largest opening on the North shore of the
harbour ; and besides being connected with the shore by reefs, has a rocky
spit, and some detached coral patches extending nearly a mile from it in a
southerly direction, having upon its extremity a rock nearly awash with 6
fathoms close to.

Anchorage. — Between the end of this spit and Buckle Point, three-quarters
of a mile N.N.W. of Tide-pole Point, a distance of two-thirds of a mile, is
the best place to anchor in the N.E. monsoon. In the other seasons, vessels
may lie farther to the southward.

Vessels bound to Port Eoyalist, and wishing to remain at anchor outside
for the night, will find the most convenient place somewhere abreast of
Bryson Point, 3 or 4 miles to the northward of the entrance, in 10 or 15
fathoms water, about 2 miles off shore.

Directions. — The soundings off Port Eoyalist are deep, there being no
bottom with upwards of 100 fathoms of line; and it is not until a vessel
approaches within a mile of a line joining the points at the entrance that
ground is struck, when from 120 fathoms the depths suddenly decrease to
20 and 30 fathoms, sand. This change is sometimes marked by a ripple line
on the surface.

The only part of the harbour that is bold to approach is the shore on the
northern side of the strait, from about half a mile inside the point to Buckle
Point. There is, however, a spit between the latter and Tide-pole Point,
extending 2 cables off, the edge of which is generally well defined by the
light green water over it.

In proceeding into Port Eoyalist do not approach either shore near the
entrance within a mile, until abreast of the opening.

When Tide-pole Point is seen midway between Thumb Peak and Mount
Beaufort, bearing about N.W. by W., the vessel will be in the fairway, and
inay then be steered direct for it.

Tide-pole Point in line with Thumb Peak, N.W. by W. | W., leada Just
dear of the North spit, and the same point in line with Mount Beaufort,
bearing N.W. ^ N., clears the South spit.

Having passed the spits, keep the northern side of the strait on board ;
and when abreast of Tide-pole Point, in 17 or 20 fathoms, haul gradually to

DEEP BAT, ETC. 575

the northward for Buckle Point, keeping upwards of 3 cables' lengths from
the shore, and anchor in from 9 to 12 fathoms, mud, about this distance
W.N. W. of the latter point.

It is recommended not to go beyond half a mile to the northward of
Buckle Point, as the channel between the reefs gets very narrow, and a 1|-
fathom patch lies 6 cables N. by E. ^ E. of it.

Vessels working in or out of Port Royalist should not approach either the
South side of the strait or harbour nearer than half a mile.

During easterly winds a heavy swell sets into the strait, which breaks
violently on the reefs, and also across tJie bay to the southward of the river.

DEEP BAY. — From Port Royalist the coast trends a little to the west-
ward of North fur 12 miles, and then E.N.E. for 25 miles, to Buld Point, the
angle of the bight forming what the old navigators called Deep Bay.

This bay corresponds with Ulugan Bay on the opposite side of the island,
the plain intervening, on either side of which Mount Peel and the Cone are
conspicuous, being only 5 miles across ; and in approachidg Deep Bay from
the westward. Mounts Herschel and Airy appear as two islands between
Mount Peel and the range to the southward.

Four low coral islands, covered with wood, lie in a direct line N.E. by
E. i E. and S.W. by W. i W. nearly equidistant across the bottom of this
bay, and between these and the shore is another group, consisting of four
islands and some reefs and dry sand patches, all of which have been but
imperfectly delineated and sounded.

Castle Point, on the North shore of Deep Bay, in lat. 9° 59' N., long.
118° .55' 61" E., probably so called from a small rocky protuberance (a
characteristic feature of the Cleopatra range) on the brow of the hill over it,
is the commencement of a bold range which borders the coast to Green
Island Bay. At 2i miles westward of Castle Point is a small river, navi-
gable for boats, and there is also a stream of fresh water three-quarters of a
mile eastward of the point.

E.N.E. , 14 miles from Castle Point is Bold Point, with a double hill im-
mediately over it, forming the N.E. extremity of Deep Bay, and is, as re-
gards both the aspect of the land and depth of water near it, quite what the
name imports.

Ramesamey and IVIackesy Islands. — Ramesamey, the south-westernmost
of the former group, mentioned above, lies in a bed on the western side of
Deep Bay, a mile from the shore, and 8}j miles to the northward of Port
Royalist. It is surrounded by a reef extending off one-quarter of a mile,
and there is a small Tuft Island S.E. by S. three-quarters of a mile from it.

Mackesy, the next island to the E.N.E., of similar form, and 3^ miles
from Ramesamey Island, is three-quarters of a mile in circumference, and
appears to have no reef round it.

Jleara and Fraser Islands, both apparently bold to approach, lie 'inshore

576 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

of the above, fronting the opening in the mangrove, on the West of which,
near the coast, is a hill range of reddish aspect.

A reef, partly dry at low water, lies half a mile to the S.E. of the North
point of the inlet, and a bush islet close to the shore, a mile to the north-
ward of it.

There are depths of 3 and 4 fathoms inside Ramesamey and Meara
Islands, and 10 fathoms near the entrance of the Mangrove Inlet.

Eeef Island, lying 4 miles to the E.N.E. of Anchorage Island, is, in-
cluding the reef that surrounds it, upwards of a mile in extent N.N.E. and
S.S.W., and the same distance N.W. and S.E., and there is a small sand-
bank, dry at low water, at 3 cables' lengths from its S.W. extreme.

A rocJcy lanlc, nearly dry at low water. If mile in a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion, lies halfway between the two latter islands, to the northward of which,
and between Eeef Island and the shore, a distance of 3^ miles, are two of
the four islands composing the inner group, with a dry sand-patch off the
outer extremity of each. The depth of water between the rocky bank and
Reef Island is 11 and 12 fathoms.

Anchorage Island, 2^ miles in circumference, the north-easternmost and
largest of the group, has a reef fronting the eastern side, which at low water
dries off 3 cables' lengtlis, and a rock awash at nearly three-quarters of a mile
from the N.W. point. The channel inside this island is almost blocked up
by two reefs, with dry sand-patches on each, and a shoal spit which extends
half a mile from Castle Point.

Between the latter and Anchorage Island are depths of 12 and 17 fathoms.

Soimdmgs.—Th.Qxe is a bank off Deep Bay with 5 fathoms on it, upwards
of 2 miles in extent, lying nearly in a direct line between Port Eoyalist and
Bold Point, and S.S.E. 6| miles from the body of Anchorage Island.

Fronting the group of islands, a little to the southward, the soundings vary
from 8 to 12 and 23 fathoms.

A bank with 17 and 27 fathoms over it lies 5^ miles S.E. of Bold Point ;
but within 2 miles of the coast to the westward of the point, there are no
soundings with upwards of 170 fathoms; nor is ground obtained at this
depth (unless within 3 cables' lengths of the shore, where there are 30
fathoms) all along the coast, until 3 miles S.E. of Anchorage Island, when
it changes suddenly to 6, 9, and then 20 fathoms.

Constancia Shoal, the general extent of which is unknown, was discovert'd
by a Spanish vessel of that name. It had 8J- fathoms on it, sand and
coral, where first sounded on, but the depth increased to 11 fathoms about 1
mile to the N.W., and again decreased from that depth in a W.S.W. direc-
tion. The shoal part lies about E. by S., 15 miles from Bold Point, which
places it in lat. 9° 58^ N., long. 119° 24^ E.

Pasig Shoal, of 5 fathoms, is placed in the chart 9 miles S.E. of Constancia
Shoal, in lat. 9° 50' N., long. 119° 31' E.

GREEN ISLAND BAY. 577

GREEN ISLANDS.— From Bold Point the hills forming the coast range
take a northerly direction ; and at 3 miles to the northward of the dou^tle
hill over the point, on the same range, is Bold Peak, upwards of 3,000 ft.
above the sea.

The sweep of the current, either round this point or from Green Island
Bay, appears to have detached a portion of the low land, which now forms
North and South Green Islands, together nearly 4 miles in length, and two
smaller islands to the northward, fronting the East side of Bold peak.

Pascoe Channel, the channel inside the Green Islands, through which the
current in the month of June was observed running at the rate of 3^- knots
an hour to the northward, is from 1 to 3 cables wide. Eeefs lie either side
of this channel. Off a point on the mainland to the southward of the en-
trance, the coral extends 4 cables' lengths, and there is a rock awash with 7
and 8 fathoms close to, immediately in the opening to the northward.

The depth of water about a mile outside North Green Island is 27 and 28
fathoms, but there is a 2-fathom patch E. by S. this distance from its North
extreme.

GREEN ISLAND BAY, to the N.E. of the Green Islands, has several
low coral islands, with extensive reefs and numerous sand patches in it.

At Cliff Point, 11 miles N.N.E. of North Green Island, a ridge of low
hills, called the Barbacan Range, joins the coast, and behind these is a
higher range in the body of the island, with some double summits and long
table spurs or shoulders.

Barbacan. — A small river disembogues at 5^ miles north-eastward of Cliff
Point, and it is shoal off the entrance, where the surf breaks heavily at
times. On the right bank, at half a mile up, is the small village of Barba-
can. Prom Barbacan the northern shore of Green Island Bay trends about
E. by N. for 10^ miles to High Point, a bold headland forming the north-
eastern limit of the bay. At 2 miles from the river is Barbacan Point, and
close to the sea, at 5 miles beyond, is a conical shaped hill called Bay Peak,
rising to a height of 1,800 ft.

Mount Baring, in lat. 10' 24' 55" N., long. 119= 32' 56' E., and N.E. 33
miles from Bold Point, rises directly over High Point to an elevation of
2,100 ft. Johnson Island, the outer of the S.W. portion of the group in
Green Island Bay, lies N.E. 19 miles from Bold Point, and 4^ miles from the
shore. A bank, consisting of sand and coral, 1 i mile in extent, East and
"West, dries at low water 2J miles S. J "W. of the island. There is also
some rocky ground with 4 fathoms, and 18 and 20 fathoms, mud, close to,
with the island bearing N. by W. J W. distant 3^ miles.

Howley, Stanlake, Flat, and Shell Islands lie inshore of Johnson Island ;
Iloidcij, the south-western and innermost, is N.N.E. 7^ miles from North
Green Island, and 1^ mile fi-om the shore, with a reef between; and there
I. A. 4 E

578 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

is a sand-bank S. by W. i W. l^ mile from Howley Island. Stanlake and
Flat islands are the two largest in the bay.

A sand-patch lies IJ mile to the eastward of Stanlake. Shell island is
N. J E. 3 miles from Johnson Island, and between it and Barbican. It has
a shoal extending one-third of a mile from its north-western side, and a sand-
patch at 6 cables' lengths to the south-westward. Gi-een Island, the outer-
most of the N.E. portion of the group, lies E. f N. 6J miles from Johnson
Island, and S.W. by S. from High Point.

Reef Island, from the East side of which coral projects three-quarters of a
mile, lies W.N.W. 2^ miles from Green Island, and N.W. by W. ^ W. A\
miles from Johnson Island ; midway between it and Shell Island is a sand-
bank and reef.

Hog Island, lying 3 miles N. by W. J "W. of Green Island, and the same
distance from the shore, is H cable in extent, with a roch awash, East,
northerly, 1 mile from it.

The Coast beyond High Point takes a N.E. direction for 12 miles to
Endeavour Point, which is low and densely wooded. Midway between is
Squall Point, from which a range runs nearly North to the coast at the same
distance on the other side of Endeavour Point, having Brahe Peah, a sharp
hill 1,300 ft. above the sea, on the southern part, and a double peak 1,400
feet high to the northward of it.

Ulan. — Two miles to the northward of High Point is a small river, with a
village similar to that of Barbacan, called Ulan, on the right bank, half a
mile from the entrance. The river is fresh at the village.

Dry Sand-hanlcs. — Two reefs lie off this part of the coast. The outer,
which is a mile in diameter, and has a dry sand-bank in the centre, is 4^
miles from the shore, and E. | N. 6| miles from High Point. The other is
2J miles inshore of it, and has also a sand-patch, which, as well as that on
the outermost reef, shows at all times. Eeefs and sand-banks extend nearly
2 miles off the coast to the northward of this.

DUMARAN ISLAND, separated from Endeavour Point by a channel 1^
mile wide, is about 42 miles in circumference, and not more than 600 feet
above the sea in any part. It is of irregular form, and has no very re-
markable features by which to distinguish it, the hills being apparently nearly
of the same elevation, and, with the exception of a few in the neighbourhood
of the settlement on the North shore, and near the North part of the island,
are thickly wooded.

There is an inlet on the S.E. face running 3 miles into the body of the
island, with 5 fathoms water near the head ; and at the eastern extremity of
Dumaran is an island connected with the shore by a sandy isthmus, East of
which, nearly 6 miles, is a small wedge-shaped island called Trepang.

Three small islands front this part of the coast ; the S.W. and largest,
called Christmas Island, lying 4 miles East of the opening of the inlet above

DUMAEAN— COOK CHANNEL. 579

mentioned. S.W. about IJ mile from the summit of it is a 3-fatliom patch
of coral, and there is also one with 4 fathoms at 8 cables' lengths N.W. of
the same. At 4i miles S.W. of Christmas Island, abreast of Green Point,
the South point of the inlet, is a rocky bank with only 4 fathoms on it.
Also S.W. of Green Point, fronting an opening, is a 2^J-fathom patch, lying
li mile from the shore.

Barton Point, the S.W. extremity of Dumaran, has a spit with 2^ fathoms
water on it, projecting IJ mile to the westward.

Coral Shoal. — Nearly midway between Barton Point and the inner dry
sand-patch already noticed as lying off the coast between High and Endea-
vour points, is a coral shoal with only 3 fathoms, and perhaps less, over it.
From it South Hill, Dumaran, bears E. | N. ; Endeavour Point, N. J W. ;
and Drake Peak, N.W. by W. The soundings in the immediate vicinity of
this shoal are 12 and 15 fathoms.

DUMARAN.— The Spanish settlement of Dumaran, next in importance to
that of Tai-tai, is 4J miles to the northward of Barton Point, and in the
bottom of a small bay immediately opposite Endeavour Point. The fort
stands on a hillock close to the landing place in lat. 10° 32' N., long. 119°
46' 51" E., and in 1850 was in a dilapidated condition, the terre plain, on
which a few pieces of old iron ordnance were mounted, being partly con-
structed of nebong, supported by poles, about 25 ft. from the base of the
building. A church forms part of the interior arrangements of the fort.
The village is prettily situated in the rear amongst some cocoa-nut trees, and
there is a considerable tract of land in the interior under cultivation.

Supplies. — Ample supplies, such as rice, maize, sweet potatoes, tobacco,
and cotton are raised, both for the consumption of the inhabitants and for
the purposes of traffic. Pigs, goats, and fowls are also plentiful, but an ex-
travagant value is put on them.

There is not any eligible watering-place in the bay.

Anchorage.— Shelter from N.E. winds will be found on the West side of
Dumaran in from 9 to 12 fathoms, mud, S.S.W. of the bay where the settle-
ment is.

COOK CHANNEL is the passage between Dumaran Island and the shore
of Palawan, and has its southern entrance between Endeavour Point and a
rocky spit with a sand-bank on it, dry at low water, extending to the south-
ward li mile from the West point of Dumaran.

The tides set rapidly through the channel, and it should not be attempted
by a sailing vessel, unless under peculiarly favourable circumstances.

From Endeavour Point the island of Palawan takes a suden trend in a
N.N.W. direction, and the coast assumes an entirely different character,
being fronted by numerous islands and rocks, not one of which partakes of
the features of those farther to the southward.

Dumpier Point bears N. by W. | W., distant 9 miles from Endeavour Point,

580 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

and forms the western extremity of the bay mentioned above. Point Peak, a
sharp peak 960 ft. above tlie sea, and others of less elevation, immediately
over it, joining the range noticed on page 578.

Of the islands in the northern entrance of Cook Channel, the three largest
lie on the eastern or Dumaran shore, in a N. by E. and S. by W. direction.
South Channel Island is 2 cables' lengths West of the southernmost of these
three, and is connected with it by a reef awash in some parts at low water.

A rock awash lies apparently in the centre of Cook Channel at 3 cables'
lengths from the edge of the reef on the S.E. side of South Channel Island,
with the summit of the large island N.N.W. three-quarters of a mile, and
Endeavour Point W.S.W. the same distance.

Goat Island, the northernmost on the eastern side of Cook Channel, is
N.N.E. 2^ miles from South Channel Island ; it is 380 ft. in height above
the sea, and has a rocky head just detached from the North extremity.

A 3-fathom coral patch lies W. i N. 1 mile from the summit of this island,
with 15 and 16 fathoms olose to.

Eeef and Bivouac Islets. — On the West side of Cook Channel are four
small and one larger island. The latter, 200 ft. above the sea, lies nearly
West about 2 miles from the centre island on the opposite side, and fronting
it are the Beef and Bivouac Islets.

Bivouac Island, 160 ft. high, lies half a mile to the N.N.E. of Eeef Islet,
is bold to approach, and has a small rocky head on the N.E. side, with 4
fathoms close to it.

North Channel Island is 6 cables' lengths to the N.W. of Bivouac, and
from it a reef projects 2 cables in a N.E. direction.

Barren Island, lying to the N.E. of Dampier Point, and separated from it
by a channel 2 miles wide, in which there are 23 fathoms, is a narrow island,
2J miles long, North and South, and 720 ft. in height. It is of a rocky,
barren aspect, with comparatively few trees growing upon it.

There is a ^-fathom patch S. J E. 8 cables' lengths, and one with the same
depth E. by S. \\ mile from the South extreme of Barren Island, the two'
being in line with Dampier Point bearing S.W. by W. f W.

Water. — A stream in the above-mentioned bay, difficult to distinguish
unless close to the beach, was the only eligible place discovered on this part
of the coast for watering, which here is a tedious operation if not supplied
with long hoses. In the absence of these the natives were found willing to
fill the casks and float them oE on bamboo rafts, constructed especially for
the purpose, at the rate of 75 cents per tun. If the latter expedient be
adopted, patience is indispensable.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Barren Island, at 9'' 30"
a.m. ; low water at 5 p.m. ; rise of tide 5f ft.

CARLANDAGAN ISLANDS.— The Carlandagan group, lying E.N.E.,

SOUTH TAI-TAI ISLAND AND BAY. 581

distant 16 miles from the N.E. extremity of Dumaran Island, is composed of
two large islands, and three smaller islets or rocks.

Carlandagan, the southernmost island, is 3 miles in extent from North to
South, and has a high precipitous conical head to the South.

Maducang Island, 926 ft. high, lies N. h E. of Carlandagan, the channel
between, in which there are lOi fathoms, being 6 cables wide. A small
island called Indong is connected with the shore on the S.E. side, and to the
eastward 3f miles is Bird Island, with a remarkable white rock 2^ miles N.
by W. of it.

High water, at full and change, occurs at the Carlandagan group the same
time as at Barren Island, 32 miles to the westward ; rise of tide 6 ft.

The Coast. — Immediately opposite Barren Island, and on the North of
Point Peak, is an inlet .'3i miles deep, with two islands at the entrance, the
largest of which, called Shadwell Island, is 1^ miles from the shore.

A rochj patch, with 3 fathoms water on it, lies S.E. i S. one mile from the
summit of Shadwell Island.

SOUTH TAI-TAI ISLAND bears N.W. by N., distant 6 miles from the
North extreme of Barren Island, and is separated from the South point of
the bay of Tai-Tai by a channel barely a mile wide, with 19 fathoms in it.
The highest part of the island is elevated 610 ft. above the sea. A rock
awash lies rather more than three-quarters of a mile from the shore on the
East side ; and at the S.E. extremity of the island is a small spit, with an
islet and a white rock near it.

Midway between this island and the North extreme of Barren Island, is a
bank nearly a mile in length, E. by S. and W. by N., with 3 and 4 fathoms,
coral, upon it.

TAI-TAI BAY is nearly 10 miles wide and 5 miles deep, and is capable of
affording good shelter, in the S. W. monsoon. Its western shore corresponds
with the eastern side of Malampaya inner sound, the distance across in some
parts not exceeding 4 miles.

A high range overlooks both shores, and that portion which separates the
N.W. part of Tai-Tai Bay and bottom of Bacuit Bay has an abrupt shoulder
1,680 ft. above the sea, and some remarkable sharp hunch peaks on it,
giving rise to the appellation of Shark-fin range. Four islands lie across
the entrance of Tai-Tai Bay, extending in a northerly direction from South
Tai-Tai Island.

Tai-Tai Fort, lat. 10° 50' N., long. 119° 30' 56 "E., in the S.W. angle of the
bay, is the principle settlement of the Spaniards on the island of Palawan.
From their own account, they first planted themselves here in 1600. The
permanent fortress, which now stands on the extremity of a narrow isthmus
(nearly isolated at high water), on the eastern side of the small bay where
the village is, was commenced in the year 1710, and, as recorded in the in-
terior of the building, finished in 1738. The fort, which had been allowed

582 PALAWAN ISLAND, EAST COAST.

to fall into a dilapidated state, was, under the energetic Alcalde, Antonio
Gimenez, an officer in the Spanish Eoyal Engineers, put in an efficient con-
dition. The garrison in 1850 consisted of about 200 soldiers, Manila men,
and there were 17 gunboats attached to the station.

The population at the same period was said to be about 600 souls, consist-
ing of Bysayans and half caste Manila people, over whom are placed the
Alcalde, or governor of the province, and seven European Spanish officers,
including a padre.

Supplies. — The usual supplies, such as pigs, goats, fowls, vegetables, &c.,
are to be obtained in moderate quantities, and there were some cattle seen
in the interior.

"Water here, as elsewhere on this coast, is not plentiful, that is, such as
can with facility be procured with ships' boats.

From Tai-Tai the shore of the bay takes a northerly direction. At 2 miles
is Tai-Tai Head, and 3J miles beyond is a bush island, just detached from
the shore, with a boat channel inside. A reef awash lies 1|- mile off a little
to the southward of this.

Polarican. — There is an islet on the North side of a small opening in the
reef, 8 miles to the northward of Tai-Tai, which leads to a rivulet of fresh
water, and where, on a hill overlooking it, is a stockade and a small settle-
ment, called Polaricon, prettily situated amongst some cocoa-nut trees.

Silanga Bay, which is 2 miles wide and nearly the same deep, has a settle-
ment comprising a stockade and a few houses built upon a small isthmus head
in the north-western shore and immediately under a shoulder peak, 1,700 ft.
above the sea, called Silanga Peak.

Shelter from N.E. winds may be had in Silanga Bay in 12 and 15 fathoms,
West of Smooth Hill, taking cave to keep rather on the eastern side, as the
shore on which the settlement is, is fronted by coral half a mile off.

Old Castle Point, having the Lion Eock S.S.E. 4 cables' lengths from it, a
high precipitous limestone formation, the N.E. limit of Tai-Tai Bay, may also
be considered the S.E. point of Silanga Bey. Vessels proceeding into Si-
langa Bay should haul close round Lion Rock (a steamer may pass into it)
in order to avoid the Eoyalist Beef, and enter to the N.E. of Silanga Islands,
keeping a good look-out for discoloured water.

North Tai-Tai, the southernmost island immediately fronting Tai-Tai Bay,
is North nearly a mile from South Tai-Tai Island. Elejjhant Islandlies about
a quarter of a mile to the northward of Castle Island, and has a reef awash
at three-quarters of a mile to the eastward. Snake Hock, about 60 ft. high,
lies to the eastward, distant 8k miles from the summits of these three islands,
which bear respectively S.W. by W. i W., W. | S., and W. J N.

There is a bank with 2, 4, and 6 fathoms coral over it, about a mile in ex-
tent, N.E. and S.W., lying to the north-westward of Snake Eock.

South Passage Islaiid, 1 J mile in length North and South, lies in the offing

SHAEKSFIN BAT— SMITH ISLAND. 583

of Tai-Tai Bay, 7f miles N.E. by N. of South Tai-Tai Island, and nearly 5
miles S.E. by S. of Old Castle Point.

Iguano, the northernmost island in the entrance of the bay, is 5| miles to
the westward of South Passage Island and N. ^ W. nearly 2f miles from
Elephant Island. There is some rockyfground, on which the Royalist struck,
1 J miles to the eastward of Iguano.

Bumlell is a remarkable double headed island with a rocky islet a cable
off its S.E. point, W. | N. 4^ miles from Iguano, and 2^ miles E.N.E. of
Polarican. A small double island also lies W. f S. nearly 3 miles from
Iguano, and between is a rock, with 15 ft. water over it.

A coral patch with 9 ft. on it lies N.N.W. \ W. nearly a mile from Dum-
bell Island.

The Silanga Islands, three in number, lie off the entrance of Silanga Bay,
each being surrounded by a reef barely a cable in extent ; but to the S.E. of
the centre island there is a patch lying 3 cables' lengths from it.

Tides. — It is high water, fuU and change, in Tai-Tai Bay, at 9'' 30", and
the rise of tide is 5^ ft.

Fronting Castle Peak Peninsula is a group consisting of four large and
several smaller islands.

Collinson Island, the S.E. and smallest of the four, 3i miles in circum-
ference, lies nearly East 5 miles from Castle Peak, and has to the N.W. of
it Borne (1,020 ft. above the sea), and Montero Islands, each being separated
from the other by a channel from 2 to 4 cables wide.

Gimenez Island, the largest of the group, 3J miles in circumference, is a
mile to the northward of Montero, from which several small islands extend
in a northerly direction towards Knob and Triple, and Smith Islands.

Eight cables E. by N. :^ N. of a remarkable red cliff rock on the East side
of Dome Island, is a rocic awash.

It is recommended not to take the passages between the islands forming
this group, as they have been but imperfectly surveyed, although the sound-
ings around are deep, viz. 20 and 30 fathoms.

Three-Fathoms Patch. — Some islets lying on the North side of this penin-
sula have also reefs off them ; N.E. ^ N. 1^ mile from the easternmost of
which, and S. ^ E. 1 ^ mile from Pigeon Island, is a 3-fathoms coral patch.

SHARKSFIN BAY, immediately to the northward of Castle Peak Penin-
sula, is 2J miles wide at the entrance, and is formed on the North by an
island (connected at low water with the shore), 5 miles in extent, on which
are two remarkable peaks, called Knob and Triple. Eeefs from the northern
shore stretch nearly halfway across the entrance.

SMITH ISLAND, 13^ miles to the northward of Collinson Island, and 5
miles north-eastward of Knob and Triple Island, is 2i'miles in extent, having
at Ihe South poiLt a remarkable rocky lump, 60 ft. high, tbree-quaitere of a

584 PALAWAN ISLAND.

mile S.E. of which is a rocky islet, resembling in form somewhat that of a
bishop's mitre.

ILOC or AUSTIN ISLAND, lying If mile N.W. of Smith Island and 6^
miles East of Santa Monica, is 4 miles in extent N. by E. and S. by W., and
has off its N.E. extreme, a smaller island with a rock out of water in the
middle of the channel separating them. The western side of this island
appears bold to approach, the depths within half a mile being 16 and 17
fathoms. It has, however, been but partially sounded.

CLEOPATRA ISLAND lies North 2| miles from the eastern side of Knob
and Triple Island, 4 miles to the westward of Smith Island, and 31 miles
from the shore. It is 2| miles in extent, has an undulating summit, and
some detached rocks out of water, off the North point. A coral spit projects
to the eastward 4 cables' lengths from the South point of the island, to the
southward of which, lying respectively at half and one mile from it, are two
rocks out of water.

The Coast of Palawan between Knob and Triple Island and Santa Monica,
about 7-|- miles to the northward, is fronted by rocky ground, which in some
places extends upwards of a mile from the shore.

North and South rocks, always above water, lie off it, in a N. by W. and
S. by E. direction, 2i miles apart, the latter being 2 miles from the shore,
and nearly 2^ miles North of Knob and Triple ; in a direct line between
these rocks are two patches of 3 and 3J fathoms, coral, with 10 and 16
fathoms outside.

Santa Monica, the northernmost settlement of the Spaniards on the East
coast of Palawan, is situated in a small bay immediately under East peak,
(page 566), the stockade being built on a small projecting head, with a few
houses at the back amongst some cocoa-nut trees. The population in 1850
was about 100, and in other respects the station is similar to those previously
described.

Darcotuan Bay. — Darcotuan Point, forming the South extremity of the
hay of that name, is N. by W. 2J miles from Santa Monica, and has a small
rock close to it, from which Cabuli Island, off the North point of Palawan
(described in page 567), is distant nearly 5| miles to the N.N.E.

Bay Island occupies a central position in this bay, about a mile from the
shore, and has on the South side some reefs which stretch nearly two-thirds
of the way towards Darcotuan Point. Eeefs, awash, also extend 8 cables'
lengths in a northerly direction from the latter, with 1.'3 fathoms close to.

In the northern part of the bay are the North and South Brother Islets,
lying a mile to the S.E. of the opening between Cabuli and Palawan. The
depth immediately outside them is 25 fathoms, but in the direction of Bay
Island it is only 12 fathoms, mud.

CHAPTER XIY.

NORTH-WEST COASTS OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, ETC.

In this chapter the N.W. coasts of the important archipelago the Philip-
pine Islands will be described. The island of Palawan also belongs to the
same archipelago. The latter, as before mentioned, has been regularly,
though not completely, surveyed by Captain Bate. Our descriptions of the
coasts to the northward of this, which form the eastern limit of the China
Sea, is chiefly derived from the charts drawn up under the superintendence
of Don Antonio Morata, of the Spanish Eoyal Navy, who was at the head
of the hydrographic commission appointed to collect the information upon
this portion of the Spanish possessions. To these charts and the resulting
remarks some additions have been made by other officers, as quoted and
arranged in the ensuing pages, which are derived from the China Sea Pilot,
vol. ii.

The general features of the Philippine Islands will be described in a
future chapter, only that portion limiting the China Sea being here
alluded to.

HASTINGS ISLAND, lying 7 or 8 miles eastward of the North point of
Palawan, between it and Linacapan, is 2J miles in extent N.W. and S.E.,
and has several summits, the highest being near its South extremity, where,
just detached from the point, is an islet head and some rocks awash. Im-
mediately off the N.W. point is a somewhat flat cliffy head, called Base Cliff,
and to the northward of the island, between it and Square-top group off
Observatory Island, are two peaked islets.

LINACAPAN ISLAND is the largest of an extensive group lying between
the N.E. coast of Palawan and the Calamianes, distant 11 or 12 miles from
the former. It is about 10 miles in extent. East and West, and has on the
North side two deep bays, with several islands and rocks lying off their
prominent points. In the eastern bay are several steep conical heads ; and
I. A. 4 y

586 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

in the S.W. corner is the Spanish settlement of St. Nicholas, comprising a
stockade and a few houses. There are 19 fathoms water at a mile from the
settlement ; but the approach to the bay has not been sounded, and no part
of the southern face of the island has been examined.

Several islands and peaked rocks lie between the North side of Linacapan,
and Calamion Island ; and to the south-eastward there are also some small
groups of islands.

Observatory Island, lying E. by N. ^ N. 10 miles from Cabuli, is the
north-westernmost of the Linacapan group. It is 758 ft. above the sea, and
when first seen, on making Palawan from the northward appears like a
conical hill. The island is If mile in extent, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and has
at its North extreme a saddle head, with a slip or water-course down it,
connected by a low neck of land, on either side of which are sandy bays.

A small rocky point, where observations were usually taken, in the bay
on the West side of Observatory Island, is in lat. 11° 30^' N., long. 119° 39'
33" E.

The channel between Observatory Island and Linacapan is barely 1 J mile
wide, and has upwards of 30 fathoms water. A strong current (depending
in velocity and direction on the prevailing winds) will be found usually
setting through it.

Square Top Group.— Four islands and some peaked rocks, so called, lie
off the S.W. face of Observatory Island, S.S.W. 3 miles from the largest of
which is Hastings Island.

Base Reef, lying N.W. by N. nearly 3J miles from the high part of Ob-
servatory Island, is about the size of a large boat, and between it and the
saddle head are two rocks awash.

Tides. — It is high water, one day after full and change, at Observatory
Island at IP; maximum rise observed, 5 J ft. The half tides in the month
of May occurred during the day.

The CALAMIANES are a group of high islands lying between the N.E.
end of Palawan and Mindoro, and extending between the parallels of 11° 39'
and 12° 20' N., and the meridians of 119° 47' and 120° 23' E.

Busuagan or Busuanga, the largest island of the group, is about 34 miles
in extent, N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., and 18 miles at its broadest part.
It is very irregular in form, being indented with numerous deep bays. The
islands and reefs which front its N.E. side, form the western side of North-
umberland Strait.

Calamian or Culion Island lies off the S.W. side of Busuagan, from which
it is separated by a strait about 3 or 4 miles wide in its narrowest part, and
in which are numerous islands, rocks, and shoals. Calamian is 19 miles
long, N. by W. A- W. and S. by E, ^ E., and its greatest breadth, near the
middle of the island, is nearly 10 miles. It is also of very irregular shape
on the side next Busuagan, but its western side, which alone concerns the

THE CALAMIANES GROUP. 587

ordinary navigator, is nearly straight, in the direction of the greatest length
of the island. Close to the south-western extreme is Dicahaito, a small
island which is distant nearly 10 miles from the nearest part of Linacapan ;
between them lie the numerous small islands and peaked rocks previously
mentioned.

Upon the West side of Calamian, in lat. 11= 45' N., is a small island at
the entrance of a narrow inlet or harbour running into the island in a north-
easterly direction about 5 miles. A reef, with some rocks above water upon
it, projects about a mile to the south-westward of the island. A little over
3 miles jST.W. by W. from the island is an islet or rock, surrounded by a reef,
which is nearly 2 miles distant from the nearest shore.

Islands and Dangers Westward and Northward of the Calamianes.—
Galoc is the name of a long narrow island lying close ojff the north-western
extreme of Calamian. It is surrounded by a reef which projects from its
south-western end nearly a mile. Close off its northern part, and about a
third its size, is an island named Popototan, from the western point of which
a reef extends more than a mile to the south-westward.

From Popototan a chain of islands and dangers extends across the strait
which separates Calamian from Busuagan, and other islands and dangers
extend several miles to the northward ; it is, however, only the outer of
these that concern the ordinary navigator.

Isla Verde, Green Island, or Nalaut, in lat. 12° 3' N., long. 119= 47' E., and
the westernmost island hereabout, is of moderate height, covered with trees,
and visible 15 miles off; it is surrounded by a coral reef, extending about
one-third of a mile. About 3 or 4 miles N.W. of the island the Discovery
got overfalls on a coral shoal, but did not find less than 5 fathoms ; to the
eastward of the island 23 fathoms were found, and 9 and 10 fathoms close
to the reef.

The Haycock, in lat. 12° 9' N., long. 119° 48^' E., is a high rocky island,
about 2 miles off the western part of Busuagan, and may be seen 18 or 20
miles. About 2^ miles West of the Haycock soundings of 26 fathoms were
found, with overfalls, 19 fathoms about 6 miles off, and 30 fathoms about 11
miles off.

Elet is the name of a 2J-fathom patch, which lies close to the westward
of two small islets, joined by a reef to a point of the N.W. part of Busua-
gan, N. by E., distant about 4 miles from the Haycock.

JEscollo del Pinaculo, Pinnacle Rock, in lat. 12° 19 J' N., and about 2 miles
West of the North point of Busuagan, is a very sharp rock above water,
having 25 fathoms water about 2 miles westward of it, and 12 fathoms about
a mile off.

Calavite, Bimipac, or Riyh Island, in lat. 12° 21^' N., long. 119° 53^' E.,
by Captain Eoss, I.N., lies about 2 miles to the northward of the North
point of Busuagan. It is a small island, not quite 2 miles in extent, and the

588 N.W. COASTS OF nilLIPPINE ISLANDS.

channel between it and Busuagan does not appear to be free of danger, as
some rocks were seen above water eastward of the island.

About a mile north-westward of Calavite Island are rocks above water,
one of which, named Sail JRocl; is very remarkable ; and If mile north-
•westward of this lies a large black rock, named JV. W. Hock or Dickilem, in lat.
12° 24t' N., long. 119° 52' E. When passing between these the Discovery
had 38 fathoms, and about 2 miles N.N.E. of N.W. rock, passed over a coral
spot in 8 fathoms.

Calocoto, or North Hock, in lat. 12° 28' N., long. 120" If' E., is of a dark
slate colour, no trees, has two lumps, and when closely approached, appears
excessively rugged, having three others a short distance westward of it. It
is the northernmost of the islands which lie on the East side of Busuagan,
and may be seen 13 or 14 miles from the deck.

Soundings. — The charts exhibit no soundings within 20 miles of the West
side of Calamian, but beyond that distance are' irregular soundings, 19 to
54 fathoms. In lat. 11° 52' N., long. 119° 26' E., is a patch of 9 fathoms,
■with other patches, 12 to 15 fathoms, within a few miles of it. The sound-
ings near the islands westward and north-eastward of the Calamianes have
been given with the description of those islands. They are also very irre-
gular, 17 to 30 fathoms, with patches of 5 and 8 fathoms, and it would
appear necessary to be on the lookout for shoal water when navigating ia
this locality.

A doubtful patch of 5 fathoms is shown on the charts 14 or 15 miles to
the northward of the North point of Busuagan, in about lat. 12° 35' N., long.
119° 52' E.

Mindoro Strait. — Dangers in the North Entrance — Between the parallels of
12° 35' N. and 12° 34', there are four banks at the North entrance of Min-
doro Strait, which were examined in November and December, 1872, by the
Spanish gunboat Ilindoro.

Hunter Shoal — The most western of the above, named Hunter Shoal, is in
lat. 12° 40' N., long. 120° 15' E. The part on which the sea breaks is a
fiat rock about a cable in extent. It trends N.N.W. and S.S.E. for the dis-
tance of 2 cables, with 12 fathoms water on it, but at its South end it has
but 8 feet at low water. Around it are depths varying from 24 to 64 fathoms,
From it Mount Calavite bears N. by E. ^ E., and Apo Islet E. 1° S., which
places it in lat. 12' 40' N., long. 120° 9' E.

Merope Shoal lies 5| miles N.E. of Hunter Shoal. From the centre of the
bank. Mount Calavite bears N. by E. ; Apo Islet S.E. by E. ; and Mount
Tundalara, 8. 2° W. ; which places it in lat. 12° 43' 29" N., long. 120° 13'
22" E.

Rosamel Bank, 7 miles N. by E. from Merope Shoal, could not be found.
It is probably Hunter Bank, for on sounding on its assigned position, and
over a radius of 4 to 5 miles, no bottom was found with 90 fathoms of line.

WEST COAST OF MINDOllO ISLAND. SSO-

Bajo De Apo or Appo Shoal, lying between the West coast of Mindoro
and the island of Busuagan, was examined by the Spanish surveying ships,
and also by the British ships Discovery and Investigator, under the command
of Captain Eoss in 1813. Its northern extremity is in lat. 12° '15' N., long.
120° 29' E. ; from thence the shoal extends S.E. by S. 7a miles, where it forma
a very narrow spit or East point, in lat. 12° 40f N., long. 120° 34' E. ; from
the East point the southern extreme bears S. 35° W., distant oA miles, and
between the two points there are several gaps in the shoal, having 9 ft. water.
On the western side there are two islands, Apo and Me^ior. Apo, the western
one is largest, being about half a mile in diameter, and covered with trees ;
white beaches line its northern and eastern sides, and a surrounding reef
projects about half a mile. About \^ mile E.N.K of it Menor a small
rock on the western edge of Apo Bank was formerly called Little Apo, and
is surrounded by reefs ; off its N.W. end is an elevated rock covered with
trees. Between Menor and Apo is a wide, practicable channel.

Apo is in lat. 12° 39' N., long. 120° 26' E. ; from its centre the North
part of the shoal bears N. 24° E., distant 7 miles ; the eastern point E. 9°
N., 8 miles ; and the South point S. 56° E., 6| miles.

Towards the middle of Apo Bank, at the North end, are two cays, close to
each other, and visible some distance.

The whole extent of Apo shoal is 10 miles from its North to the South
point, and 9 miles from its East point to the western part of the large island.
There are two high black rocks N.E. of the small island, which may be seen
about 6 miles off, and the islands in clear weather are visible from aa
elevation of 20 ft., about 10 miles. At low water many small rocks are dry-
on the shoal, particularly along its North side.

Ships intending to pass between the coast of Mindoro and the Appo Shoal
in the night, should keep about 6 miles off the small islands near Pandan
Point, as the eastern point of the shoal is narrow, and should the wind be
■westerly, it would not readily be perceived, nor would there be breakers to
make known the approach to danger.

Liscovertj Bank. — The centre of this bank is in lat. 12° 41' 13" N., long.
120° 37' 10" E., with Point Sablayan bearing N.E. by N. ; the North islet
of Pandan N.N.E. J E. ; the South islet of Pandan N.N.E. | E. ; Mount
Calavite N. by E. * E. ; Apo Islet W. i S. ; and Merer Islet W. \ S. The
bank is very narrow, extending \\ mile North and South, with 9 fathoms
over it, and no change in the colour of the water. The spot was found with
difficulty, as the natives knew nothing of it. The 21indoro anchored on it,
but saw no signs of breaking ; there was a slight stream of current visible.

The WEST COAST of MINDORO ISLAND has no soundings off it ex-
cepting in the bays, or within 1 or 2 miles of the shore in some places.
In the interior double and treble chains of mountains extend through the
island, and some low points of land project from them into the sea.

590 N.W. COASTS OF PHILirPINE ISLANDS.

GARZA BAY, formed between points Buruncan and Ilim or Ylin, the
South extremes of Mindoro and Ilim Islands, affords excellent anchoraj^e
and shelter from northerly winds at the mouth of the strait in 10 or 12
fathoms. Garza Island and its extensive shoal also offers shelter from strong
easterly gusts. About 3 miles to the W.N.W. of Buruncan Point is a rock
awash, and 3J fathoms on its southern side.

The strait between Ilim and Mindoro is free from dangers, but owing to
the prevalence of light airs should not be attempted without a fair wind.
Caution must be used when entering Garza Bay from the northward by this
strait, for the spit off Mindoro shoals suddenly from 10 to 3 fathoms. Keep
the channel well open, therefore, borrowing rather on Ylin until Garza is
nearly locked in by the eastern point, then haul easterly, anchoring in 1 2
fathoms.

This neighbourhood, particularly Mangarin, the principal settlement of
Mindoro, had been reported, by a Spanish officer who had commanded a
gunboat, to abound in stock, water, &c., and much attenticm was directed to
these matters, as likely to be of importance to vessels making this passage
from Batavia, Macassar, or Basilan Strait. Indeed, it is immediately off
this place that the Young Queen was fallen in with, distressed by want of
water, which might have been readily obtained at Ylin without inconvenient
delay had the coast been known. No inhabitants were noticed in Garza Bay.
MANGARIN or Mangarim Bay. — fl.M.S. Samarang passed through the
strait, between the S.W. part of Mindoro Island and Ylin Island, anchoring
off Mangarin Bay, the Royalist being moored within the sandy tongue, which
is in lat. 12° 20' N., long. 121° 2' 8" E.

The interior of the bay is very shoal, and the settlement, 1^ mile N.E.
of the spit, only accessible to light boats. There is no inducement to visit
Mangarin ; little was offered, and that excessively dear, and water fit for
consumption was not found ; indeed, the marshy, unhealthy location should
be avoided.

ILIM or Ylin Island fronts the S.W. part of Mindoro, covering a space
of 10 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction. The South extreme is bold-
to on all its faces. Hence easterly, with the previous warning for the tail of
the Garza Shoal, no dangers are known. Northerly, the passage up to the
town by the channel is safe, if it can be run with a free wind ; but it is safer
to pass outside Ambolon, bearing in mind that the tail of the southern
shoal, lying off the latter island, is exactly on the line of contact of Ilim and
Ambolon extremes at the moment that Ambolon outer point shows clear of
the smaller attached island. Indeed, the reef with this warning is so mani-
festly to be seen that no excuse will warrant the oversight, notwithstanding
the deep water between it and the island.

ISupplies. — The town of Ilim or Y'lin will be found in lat. 12° 15' N., one
mile to the northward of Ambolon Island. A reef extends seaward half a

PALUAN BAY. 591

mile, off which, with the southern large house bearing East, good anchorage
will be found in 10 fathoms. A channel, staked by the natives, leads up to
the settlement, where a stream delivers itself into the sea ; but much sweeter
water was found trickling over a cliff just round the town point to the
southward, to which the boats had easier access, and from which H.M.S.
Samaravg was readily completed with water. Of the other source, a most
excellent run of water was found, but used for all purposes by the people,
and difficult to embark, excepting at high tide, owing to the shore being dry
at least a cable's length from the mouth of the stream. Fowls, eggs, grain,
and vegetables were procured at reasonable prices. Cattle were stated to be
abundant at Mangarin, but of this we have already remarked.

AMBOLON ISLAIJD.— The dangers on the sea-board of this island are
all visible, and easily avoided.

On the meridian, or 2| miles North of Ambolon, a shoal as well as a
t<mgue spitting to the W.N.W. from Ylin must be avoided ; and 5 milea
North, two coral banks, one dry at low water, cover the entrance to Man-
garin Baj'.

The safe channel in, will be found by passing the northern dry patch on
its northern side, and the next dry patch (2^ miles easterly) on its South,
anchoring the moment the channel between Ylin and Mindoro is fairly
open.

Pandan Islands. — The position and configuration of these islands, which
lie off the coast of Mindoro, in 12° 50' N., were verified by the Mindoro.
During the S.W. monsoon there is shelter to the N.E. of them ; but when
seeking it, go North of them, or between the two, — never South of them.

Port Sablayan, one of the few harbours on the West coast of Mindoro •
has anchorage which may be recommended. Here, vessels of any size can
obtain good shelter at all times except with the winds from S."W. ; but
even with these, small craft can lie under the lee of the reefs, and laro-e and
small vessels alike may anchor in safety outside the harbour, North of point
Sablayan, between the Pandan Islands and the coast.

PALUAN BAY, at the N. W. end of Mindoro (House Cliff), was examined
by the late Capt. W. T. Bate, E.N., of H.M.S. Rotjalist. It affords excellent
shelter in the N.E. monsoon, and is also a convenient place for vessels to
obtain supplies when passing through Mindoro Strait. The bay is 5 miles
wide at entrance, of a semicircular form, running back 3 miles in a northerly
direction. There are no dangers in it. Reefs, dry at low water, extend a
quarter of a mile from either point of entrance, having deep water close to
them. The soundings at the entrance are from 45 to 50 fathoms, half a mile
to the southward of which they increase to 200 fathoms.

The best anchorage is in the north-eastern extremity of the bay, in 14
fathoms (to which,the- water suddenly shoals from 20 fathoms), less than a
mile from the beach, and West from a small isolated head, upon which a

592 N.W, COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

hut is erected. There is a black rock close to it, standing a few yards in
front of a sandy beach, which shows in good relie£ The bottom consists of
a black tenacious mud, from which it is difficult to extricate the anchor after
it has been down a few days.

Water. — A small river disembogues immediately on the North side of the
<;liff, where good water can be obtained with facility ; and on the beach there
is plenty of drift-wood. The coral projects half a mile from the entrance of
the river, and has 10 and 12 fathoms close to its edge.

Caution. — Care must be taken when beating into Paluan Bay, for the
squalls come violently oflF the high land, are very sudden, and at night do not
give the least warning.

CAPE CALAVITE, the north-western extreme of Mindoro, is in lat. 13°
26' N., long. 120° 18' E. Between it and Paluan Bay there are soundings
near the shore, which is bold to approach. The few rocks interspersed
along this part of the coast, adjacent to the cape, lie close in, and one of
them, just above water, has a sandy beach adjoining, upon the projecting
part of the coast that forms the cape. Over this point stands Calavite
Mountain, which is of regular sloping form, and visible at a great distance
in clear weather.

Flying Cloud Rock.— The ship Flying Cloud, on the 7th of April, 1854, is
reported to have struck on a sunken rock, with from 6 to 12 ft. water on it,
and about 30 or 35 ft. in diameter ; it is said to lie in lat. 13° 28' N., long,
about 119° 34' E.

LUEANG ISLANDS.— Lubang, extending about 16 miles nearly N.W.
and S.E., is the largest island of a detached group that fronts the S.W. end
of Luzon and the N.W. end of Mindoro; it is high in the middle, but low
at each extreme. Navigating-Lieutenant Phillips, H.M.S. Vic/ilant, 1863,
remarks that the northern part of Lubang is very low land, and when coming
from the southward, the northern extreme of the high land in the centre may
be mistaken for the end of the island. Amhil or Amtil, to the eastward of it,
is a high conical mountain, about 2,500 ft. high. Golo Island, a high but
long narrow strip of land, 8 miles W.N.W. and E.S.E , with reefs off its
N.E., East, and S.E. points, adjoins the south-eastern extreme of Lubang.
The northern part of Lubang is lined by a reef, on which the Company's
ship Regent was driven and wrecked, after having struck on one of the shoals
off the S.W. end of Palawan, where she lost her rudder.

Looc Bay, on the East side of Lubang, is thus described by Sir E. Belcher,
— " On the eastern end of Lubang Island, and covered by Ambil Island, is
the very snug port of Lcioc, which affords safe retreat in the event of acci-
dent in passing Calavite, or during the passage by the strait of Bernardino.
It is pretty free from dangers at the mouth, and good holding ground will
be found in depths between 10 and 20 fathoms. Within the former depth it
suddenly shoals, and several lines of coral ledge bar the inner depths of the

LUBANG ISLANDS. 593

bay from direct access, although excellent shelter would be found by a vessel
moored between these barriers, to which they might easily be conducted.
At the village a brisk rivulet supplies most excellent water, but boats cannot
fill except at high -water.

In approaching the bay caution must be observed, as a 3J-fathom patch is
marked on the chart about 2}^ miles to the eastward of the southern horn of
the bay. "Water, as well as wood, are easily procured, but bullocks, stock,
vegetables, &c., are at the same (or higher) prices as Manila.

Another port was indicated on the North side of Lubang. It was curso-
rily viewed by the Samarang in passing, and appeared to be merely sheltered
by a reef running parallel to the coast. It might aiford shelter to a steamer,
but ingress and egress, unless in very favourable weather, owing to its being
on a lee shore, is problematical to a sailing vessel. The village is termed
Tagbach, and may afford supplies to passing vessels which send tlieir boats.
It was reported to be a gunboat rendezvous.

Northward of Ambil are some rocks, and the islets of Mandani and Mala-
vatuatt. To the northward of these islets are shoal patches, but the least
water over them appears from the chart to'be 6 fathoms, the soundings round
about being 36 to 50 and 90 fathoms. Westward of Ambil, and 2 or 3 miles
from the northern shore of Lubang, are two rather extensive shoals, named
Ambil and Afuera Banks.

Cabra or Goat Island, the south-western extreme in lat. 13°52.^'N., long.
120° 2^' E., is the outer or westernmost island of the Lubang group, and its
S.E. point nearly joins the N.W. end of Lubang; it is a low, flat, woody
island, about 200 ft. in height, and very even, with a reef of foul ground
projecting from its North end. Sir E. Belcher remarks : — " Some doubt
existing as to the true position and the dangers reported to extend oflF this
island, a day was devoted to establish this turning point of the navigation of
these seas."

" The Samarang grazed the island on its eastern side, rounding to and an-
choring off its southern face. The distance usually observed in passing land
is the only question to be noticed here. No dangers requiring express cau-
tion exist. It has also been passed by the Samarang, very close on the "West
side, much within the range that any merchant vessel could try, without the
appearance of danger. In the voyage of H.M.S. Sulphur, it is observed, —
" Both the Starling and Sulphur shaved the surf-line of Cabra without ob-
taining soundings ; therefore the dangers reported to lie to the northward of
this island are incorrectly stated."

The Channel Eastward of the Lahang Islands, and aL^o between theai and

Mindoro, is frequented by the Spanish ships, when going to or coming from

Manila. The Samarang beat through this channel easterly, and Sir Edward

Belcher remarks, — " It is important to remind seamen that from about 4 to

I. A. 4 a

594 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. '

6 a.m. those who frequent this coast state that sudden heavy squalls may be
expected off-shore, and as vessels are compelled to carry a press of sail to
make progress, they should shorten before they attempt Calavite ; and this
especially applies to close working to get through the channel between it
and Lubang. Even with caution a flurry took two jibbooms in succession
between 6 and 10 a.m. The advantage gained by this channel, which is
free from dangers as to pilotage, was manifest, as it enabled us, having
cleared the channel at 3 p.m., to reach the entrance of Manila Bay with a
free wind at 10 p.m."

MINERVA ROCK. — Ships passing eastward of the Lubang group and ap-
proaching the S.W. point of Luzon, called Cape Santiago, should be careful
to avoid the Minerva Rock, which seems not to have been noticed by navi-
gators, until the Minerva, of Alioa, Capt. Robertson, bound from Sydney to
Manila, struck on it at 2 a.m., September 10th, 1834, although an American
ship had been wrecked on it several years previously. It is said to be a coral
rock, having 17 fathoms water near it, and bearing from Cape Santiago
S.E. ^ E., distant 4 or 5 miles.

FORTUN ISLAND, in lat 14° 2' 45" N., long. 120° 28' 34" E., is shown
on the chart as about a mile in extent, with some rocks off its eastern side.
Sir E. Belcher observes, — " The island is safe to, and, like Cabra, requires
but the seaman's attention."

SIMO BANK— In about lat. 14° 4' N., long. 120° 16' E., 14 or 15 miles
northward of the Lubang group, and 12 or 13 miles W. |^ N. from Fortun
Island, is a bank 4 or 5 miles in extent, with 7 to 11 fathoms water over it,
and irregular soundings, 21 to 109 fathoms, near it.

SOUTH-WEST COAST of LUZON.— We have no description of the land
between Cape Santiago (the South extreme of Luzon) and Manila Bay, and
this part of the coast is quite out of the ordinary track of vessels proceeding
up and down the China Sea. The coast line appears by the chart to take
from Cape Santiago a north-westerly direction for 4 or 5 miles, when it
trends 10 or 11 miles to the northward to San Diego Point, which appears
to be low and sandy. This latter part is fronted by a reef which projects in
places more 2 miles from the shore.

Fuego Point bears about N. by W. 10 miles from San Diego Point, and just
to the northward of the latter is Lian Bay, and about midway between the
points is the anchorage and town of Nasuglu. Two or three miles southward
and south-westward of Fuego Point, fronting a small bay, are several islets
and rocks.

From Fuego Point the coast line takes a direction about N. by E. to Lim-
bones Island, which lies close off a point of the main ; in this space are some
bays and islets, with anchorages off them. From Limbones the coast falls
back to the north-eastward, forming the southern part of Manila Bay,

MANILA. i95

The soundings off this part of Luzon are deep and irregular, 30 to 100
fathoms, and afford but little or no warning when approaching the dangers,
close to which are 17 to 60 fathoms; consequently the navigator will have to
approach the coast with proper care and caution.

MANILA.

MANILA BAY. — This large inlet is about 30 miles in extent each way,
and the land on both sides is high. The city of Manila, standing on its
eastern shore, about 25 miles from the entrance, is the capital of Luzon, one
of the largest of the Philippine Islands, and the seat of the Spanish Govern-
ment in the East. The city is large and convenient for trade, the country
adjacent producing excellent indigo, sugar, tobacco, hemp for cordage, &c. ;
but the inhabitants around are indolent. The cigar factories are numerous,
several thousand of women working in each. Its chief dependence was
formerly on the trade to Acapulco, carried on in two or three ships, which
usually sailed in March or April from that place, and arrived at Manila in
August or September, but not always regular ; now, however, it has a con-
siderable trade with all parts of the world.

The imports of Manila are chiefly British manufactures, linens and cottons,
hardware, and articles of British produce ; French and German toys and
goods, wines, &c. Its exports are sugars, rice, hemp, tobacco, hides, and
cotton ; a small quantity of coffee, indigo, rhubarb, native cloths, and hats.
In 1875, 86 British ships (chiefly from Hong Kong and Australia), or
67,687 tons, entered at Manila; 111 Spanish ships, or 32,316 tons; and 65
foreign ships, chiefly American, or 53,966 tons.

During the months of June, July, and August, the air of Manila is ren-
dered impure by noxious exhalations arising from the swampy land around ;
and the weather being sultry, with much rain at times, febrile complaints
are then likely to appear.

The N.E. monsoon blows strong out of Manila Bay at times, accompanied
by a cloud resembling smoke, which is di-iven out of the bay to the S.W.,
and forms an arch in that horizon, when the sky is otherwise clear ; but
sometimes sea-breezes from the S.AV. blow into the bay in the N.E. monsoon
after mid-day, increasing in strength as you advance into the bay.

The harbour is formed by two piers at the mouth of the River Pasig. A
bar lies ofl' the river's mouth covered by 11 feet at low and 14 feet at high
water. The harbour itself has as much as 25 feet of water. The channel
over the bar runs from the end of the northern mole S.S.W., diagonally
across the mouth of the river, and is marked by two red conical huoys, which
must be passed close-to.

596 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

A small green light visible seaward between the bearings N.W. and S.E. is
shown from a red iron stand on the battery of the South mole head, and a
red light visible 8 miles from a circular white tower on the North mole head.
These lights bear North and South from each other, and that on the North
mole head is in lat. 14° 36' 7" N., long. 120° 57' 20" E.

Supplies. — Coal of all kinds may be purchased. Water can be purchased,
but as the water boats have to be sent 5 or 6 miles up the river, timely notice
must be given. The water in Manila, excepting the rain preserved in tanks,
is brackish and very hard. Fresh beef is or was very bad, being spoiled in
the killing. If much be required, the bullocks should be purchased and
killed on board. Vegetables are not plentiful.

"The stay at Manila was sufficiently long to prove how very unsuitable a
port it is for refitting a ship and recruiting the men , compelled, as the ship
is, to anchor at a distance of nearly 2 miles from the shore, with a tempera-
ture ranging from 75 to 85 degrees, with an oppressive atmosphere, the tem-
perature of the water being constant at 82 degrees. The public houses open
to the crews are dens of infamy, in which the men are hocussed, robbed, and
turned into the streets, without any chance of obtaining remedy, owing to
the insufficiency of the police." — J. E. Davis, H.M.S. Challenger, Nov. 1874.

THE ENTRANCE OF MANILA BAY is divided by some islands into
two channels, known respectively as the North and South channels.

Corregidor, or Mariveles Island and Lighthouse, the principal island in
the entrance, lies over towards the North shore, and is 3;^ miles in length
East and West. A Lighthouse 60 feet high stands on its highest point, in
lat. 14° 23' 6" N., long. 120° 33' 30" E., and exhibits at an elevation of 639
feet above the sea a white light, which revolves every half minute, and is visiblo
in clear weather at 20 miles. A fixed white light is shown from the white
tower on the West mole head. There is fresh water to be procured under
a steep cliff at the western end of the island, but the landing is on a stony
beach, and inconvenient.

Pulo Caballo and Lighthouse. — Pulo Caballo is a high bluff rock 639 feet
high, of considerable size, partially covered with verdure, lying about three-
quarters of a mile southward of Buri Point, the eastern extreme of Corre-
gidor. K fixed white light is exhibited from the low spur on ^the N.E. part
of the rock, 27 ft. above high water mark, and is visible 6 miles. It is
concealed hy high land to seaivard between the bearings of S.W. by S. and
W. by S., and screened towards the North shore between the bearings of N.
by E. and N.W. by W. | W.

Sangley Point lAg\it.—A. fixed white light is shown on the eastern shore
of Manila Bay, elevated 29 ft. above high water and visible 7 miles off, at
Sangley Point, the outer extreme of the low land at the entrance of Port
Cavite.

Soundings of 50 to 40 fathoms will be got when within 7 or 6 miles of

MANILA BAY. 597

Corregidor, decreasing gradually to 27 or 26 fathoms about 2 miles to the
westward of it.

Between Corregidor and the North shore the depths are 50 to 48 fathoms
within a quarter of a mile of the island, 26 fathoms in mid-channel, decreas-
ing quickly to 16 or 15 fathoms, stony ground, -svithin half a mile of the
North shore.

La Monja, the Nun, or Raycoch, is a high rock, bearing from Corregidor
Light W. J S. distant 3 miles, with 27 fathoms water within a quarter of
a mile of it all round. The soundings from it decrease regularly to 29 fa-
thoms within a quarter of a mile of the North shore, and deepen to 29 or 30
fathoms near the N.W. part of Corregidor, close to which there is a per-
forated rock.

FULTON ROCK.— This danger lies about a quarter of a mile off the
northern shore of the entrance, N. by W. \ W. from Corregidor Lighthouse.
There appears to be 6 to 11 fathoms near the rock, and 5 to 6 fathoms be-
tween it and the shore. The North shore, several miles north-eastward of
it, is fronted by rocks, and about 3 miles north-eastward of the Fulton is or
was a hell buoy to warn ships to avoid the dangers which lie off Caucav©
Point.

El Frayle, the Friar, rock or islet, which appears like a sail, lies 3^
miles S. 4 E. from Caballo Light, and nearly 2 miles from the South shore
of the bay. Close around it are depths of 10 and 11 fathoms, increasing to
17 and 23 fathoms at a short distance to the westward.

K Z fathoms' patch lies 3 miles N.W. of Point Marijondon, the nearest
land, and 4 miles from the Friar.

PORT MARIVELES, on the North side of the entrance to Manila Bay,
is about a mile wide and li mile deep, with good anchorage, sheltered from
all but S.E. winds. Vessels of any size may moor here, and procure excel-
lent water. Some rocky islets, called Los Cochinos, with a rock awash just
outside them, project half a mile off" the S.W. point of entrance. Vessels
may anchor in 17 fathoms, with the village bearing N.W. by W., or they
may run farther into the bay if necessary ; the bottom being good holding'
ground and the anchorage safe. This is a convenient place for ships to
touch at when in want of wood and water, the former being an expensive
article at Manila.

St, Nicolas Banks are two shoals lying midway between Caballo
Island and Port Cavite. The outer shoal, nearly a mile in extent, is the
larger of the two, and has but 5 feet water on its shoalest part. From its
outer or northern edge in 1 1 feet water, Corregidor Light bears W. by S. ^
S., and Cavite Church E. by N. J N. Within a ship's length to the north-
westward there are 13 and 15 fathoms water, the soundings being no guide
in approaching it, because the bank is so steep. A buoy was placed on this
fihoal, but had disappeared when H.M.S. Nassau was here in 1871.

598 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

CAVITE', on the eastern shore of Manila Bay, is the port and marine ar-
Benal of Manila, where ships are built, and to which those are hove down
that want repairs, it having excellent conveniences for that purpose. The
town is well fortified, and stands on a low point of land, which forms a good
harbour or cove, the deepest water in which appears to be 3^ fathoms, soft
mud, with shelter from West and S.W. winds. As the water in the wells
here is brackish, the inhabitants are supplied with fresh water from the river
by Old Cavite.

ANCHORAGE IN MANILA ROAD.— A good berth is in 7 fathoms, stiff
mud, with the church of Santo Domingo (white, with two square towers,
an excellent mark for entering or leaving the bay) bearing E.N.E. ^ E. ;
light on North mole, N.E. by E. | E. ; an isolated cloister to the right of the
town, E.S.E. ^ E. ; and the light-tower at Cavite, S. by W. This anchorage
is only 2 miles from the town, and has the advantage of a fair wind for boats
to and from the mouth of the river. Large ships generally anchor at Cavite
Harbour. Sir Edward Belcher observes, that anchorage may be taken up
anywhere among the shipping, but the best and most convenient is in 5 or 6
fathoms, having the flagstaff of the garrison gate open to the right of the
convent dome, which is within the walls. This position enables boats to fetch
off under canvas, against the fresh afternoon breezes, when a very unpleasant
sea prevails, which not only renders pulling in laden boats laborious, but
entails wetting, a matter in tropical climates to be specially avoided, irre-
spective of damage to light goods.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Manila Bay, at 10'' 40", and
springs rise about 2^ ft. The tides are irregular ; with an easterly wind,
the ebb runs out 18 hours together, between Corregidor and the North shore
pretty strong ; the flood about 6 hours to the eastward, sometimes weak, at
other times with considerable strength.

Directions. — If intending to enter Manila Bay by the North channel, —
when about 6 miles to the westward of Corregidor, steer for it ; with a fair
wind the common passage is between it and the Haycock, afterwards on the
North side of Corregidor. From hence to Manila the course is N.E. by E,
^ E., distant 25 miles, and to Cavite E. by N. ^ N. 22 miles. To avoid San
Nicolas Shoals, keep the Haycock open of the northern part of Corregidor
bearing W.S.W. until the steeple of Cavite Church bears East, and a re-
markable hummock, which stands close to the sea upon a point of land on
the North shore, W.N.W. ; being then clear of the shoals, steer for Cavite
or Manila at discretion.

In the fair channel, between the shoals and the North shore of the bay,
the depths are 17 and 18 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards that shore
to 5 and 4 fathoms ; and in steering eastward, the depths also decrease re-
gularly to 5 fathoms off Cavite, where ships anchor a little more than a mile
off chore in that depth, the bottom all stiff mud.

MANILA BAT. 699

In using the channel northward of Corregidor, care must be taken not
to near the North shore under a mile, in order to avoid the Fulton Eock
and the dangers fronting that part of the coast. It appears from the chart
that the Haycock kept to the westward of S.W. i W., will lead clear of
these dangers.

South Channel. — When the wind is blowing from the eastward, out of the
bay, the current runs out through the North channel to the westward ; it is
therefore proper at such times to adopt the channel between Corregidor and
the South shore, there being more room in it to work to windward. To
enter the bay by this channel, caution is requisite when the vessel is abreast
Point Marijondon, the easternmost high land on the South shore, N.W. of
which is the 4 fathoms patch before mentioned. The trail of the St. Nicolas
Banks also trends away gradually towards this high land, and the water may
shoal suddenly in approaching them from 12 to 7 or 6 fathoms, rocky ground.
Do not, therefore, come under 13 fathoms when in their vicinity, and when
to the eastward, keep the Haycock open with the northern part of Cor-
regidor. From 15 fathoms water, the cast may be 7, and then 8 fathoms
on the verge of the St. Nicolas Banks, when the Haycock is shut in with
Corregidor.

To avoid the St. Nicolas Banks at night, Corregidor Light must not be
be brought to the westward of S.W. by W. f W.

Within three-quarters or half a mile of the eastern part of Corregidor there
are 22 and 23 fathoms ; and when it can be rounded, stand over for and
work along the North shore, which has 15 or 16 fathoms at a quarter of a
mile, and 10 or 12 fathoms about a cable's length off; although, in some
places, the water shoals suddenly from 15 to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, there is
no invisible danger, and when past Corregidor, the North shore has good
amhorage over a sandy bottom. Farther to the northward and eastward
this shore becomes more flat, the soundings decreasing regularly from 10 to
8, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms close in shore.

Sir Edward Belcher remarks, that it is customary to enter this bay by the
passage between Mariveles Bay and Corregidor Island, but experience has
proved that this practice is injudicious, that the wider channel easterly, where
less tide prevails, is to be preferred, where the local or coasting pilot well
knows, that by hugging the eastern coast of the bay or wide channel, a fair
leading or working breeze will be experienced at times when calms prevail
on tlie western side of the bay. As an instance of this, at 5^ 30" a.m. on
the IGth March, 1814, an American frigate was seen at dawn well to wind-
ward, taking the western channel. Fresh working breezes prevailed, and at
noon the Samarang having beat up by the eastern channel, had brought El
Frayle S.S.W. h W. and Cavite Lighthouse E.N.E. In 12 hours, viz., at
S*" 30" p.m. she was moored off Manila. At dawn the next morning the

600 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

American frigate was seen becalmed on the "West side of the bay, and sho
did not anchor off Manila before 8 o'clock.

The only reason advanced for the custom before alluded to, is, that it is
more convenient for the guard boat to communicate by the western channel,
and the officer of the guard boat generally instructs vessels in an authori-
tative manner to adhere to routine, even to threaten if his directions are not
obeyed.

Working up on the eastern side of Manila Bay, the chart furnishes suffi-
cient warning as to where danger may be apprehended. The best leading
mark for avoiding the San Nicolas Banks (until Cavite Lighthouse bears E.
by N. i N.) is never to open El Frajde to the westward of the more distant
land to the southward. Nevertheless, it is prudent to hug that shore, on.
short boards, up to that limit, particularly about noon, or before 2 p.m., as
the S.E. sea breeze first makes easterly, then southerly, o£f Cavite, which
affords a fine lead to the anchorage of Manila.

The Coast from Mariveles Point, at the entrance of Manila Bay, takes a
general direction nearly N.W. byW. ^ W. for about 7 miles to Luzon Point,
and is indented with several small bays; it then trends nearly North for
about the same distance, and then north-westward for another 8 or 9 miles,
thus forming a bight, named Bagac Bay, the town of Bagac being in the
depth of it, in lat. 14° 35' N. From the north-western extreme of this bay
the coast line trends to the northward to Port Subig. ^

The Coast from Mariveles Point to Port Subig is in general equally steep,
and may be approached to 1 or 2 miles in some parts ; but it will be prudent
to give it a wide berth, because rocks or foul ground extend 2 miles or more
from some of the points.

POET BINANGA, or Minargas, is the first bight to the southward of the
entrance of Port Subig. Small vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms, sheltered
from all winds excepting those at West and W.S.W. ; the course into it is
East and E. by N., about mid-channel between the points, to avoid the shoals
projecting from them, and there are 4 fathoms, fine sandy bottom, inside,
within a musket-shot of the shore.

PORT SUBIG has Grande Island at its entrance in lat. 14° 47' N., long.
120° 12y E., to the westward of which is the safe passage into the port;
for the passage to the eastward is intricate and lined by reefs. This port
stretches 8 or 9 miles inland, and forms two excellent harbours, one on the
East side, named Port Olongapo, or Olonapo, and the other at the northern
extremity, opposite the village of Subig ; here ships of any description may
be sheltered from all winds in 7 to 10 fathoms, mud.

PORT SIIANGUIN, in lat. 14° 47 J' N., long. 120° 5' E., is about half a
mile wide at entrance, and 2 miles deep, having tolerable shelter from all
winds, but rather exposed to the N.W. and W.N. W. The southern part is
formed by a high, round, bare hUl, with a reef projecting from it about a

CAPONES POINT. ' 601

musket-shot to the northward ; this must be avoided in steering East into
the entrance of the port, where the depth is 30 fathoms, decieasing gradu-
ally to the anchorage a little inside, near the beach on the South shore,
which is the best berth.

About 2J miles S.S. W. of the southern point of this port there are several
rocky islets, called the Three Friars, with a coral reef projecting from them
nearly a mile to the north-westward, and between these rocks and the shore
there are 40 and 42 fathoms water.

There is a stream oi freshwater at the bottom of Port Silanguin.

CAPONES POINT, in lat. 14° 54' N., long. 120° 3' E., is the most western
point of this part of Luzon, and therefore important to vessels proceeding
to and from China, and passing close to this coast. It bears from Cabra, or
Goat Island, North, distant 60 miles, and is high, bare land, of reddish
aspect, having two islands about 2 miles distant to the north-westward of it;
the outermost of these, called Great Capones, is about one mile in length
East and West, and nearly 3 miles distant from the shore. It has a sunken
rock off its North side.

About a mile outside Capones Point the depth is 42 or 44 fathoms ; from
40 to 35 fathoms will be found within a mile of the shore, between this part
of the coast and the North part of Port Subig, and generally 45 to 50 fathoms
about 3 or 4 miles off.

The Coast from Capones Point takes a general N. by W. J W. direction for
83 miles, to the southern part of Palauig Point. A town named Cahangan
lies about 7 or 8 miles northward of Capones Point, and another and more
important town, named Iba or Yba, the capital of the province of Zambales,
6 or 7 miles southward of Palauig Point. A reef is also shown as lying
about 2 miles off shore, in lat. 15° 10' N., with several other dangers between
it and Palauig Point. At 19 or 20 miles to the northward of Capones Point,
is Playa-Honda, formed of a small hill, projecting a little into the sea ; and
the fort is 2 miles farther northward amongst trees, by which it is not easily
perceived. The coast between them is of moderate height, with a level
space of considerable extent northward of Capones Point ; but inland, the
country is formed of high double mountains, one of which has a small sharp
peak upon it. About 2 or 3 miles off, the depths are 35 and 40 fathoms,
and the shore is lined by coral reefs, stretching out nearly a mile in some
places; about 1^ mile from the beach there is a small coral bank, bearing
S.W. by S. from Playa-Honda Fort, having 2 fathoms water, and close to it
10 or 12 fathoms. From Manila Bay entrance to lat. 15° N. the land is
generally high and mountainous. Here it begins to decrease in height ; and
near the sea in lat. 16° N. is not much elevated.

PALAUIG POINT and BANK— The southern part of this point is in
about lat. 15° 26^' N., long. 119' 53' E. ; from thence the coast line trends

I.A. 4 H

602 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

northward for 5 or 6 miles to the southern point of entrance to Port Ma-
singloc.

Palauig Bank is a danger about 2 miles to the south-westward of the
point ; from its outer part the West end of South Salvador Island bears N.
by E. £ E., and Mount Yba E. by S. The Luzon, a new steamer, commanded
by Mr. McGowan, was wrecked upon this shoal in December, 1864 ; and as,
by the same authority, there appear to be several other dangers on either
side of the point, it will be prudent to give this part of the coast a berth
of 3 or 4 miles.

The Coast from Palauig Point to Cayman Point, bearing N. by W. \ W.
30 miles, is indented with several deep bays filled with shoals, projecting
beyond the points that form their entrance. Just round the northern part
of Palauig Point, in about lat. 15° 31' N., is a small port named Masingloc;
and 16 or 17 miles farther northward, inside the Hermans or Sisters Islands,
is the port of Santa Cruz. Between Santa Cruz and Caiman Point is Bazol
Bay, which appears to be encumbered by many dangers.

HERMANAS and CULEBRA ISLANDS.— Hermanas Islands, or the Two
Sisters, are low and woody, with a conspicuous sandy beach, the northern
one, in lat. 15° 48' N., being the larger, and distant about 2 J miles from the
other. Islote Cuiehra, about 5;^ miles northward of the North Sister, is
small, with trees on it and a sandy beach. These islands have shoals pro-
jecting a long distance from them, and it will be prudent to give them a
good berth in passing, for they are about 6 miles off shore.

PUNTA CAYMAN, or Cayman Point, in lat. 15° 55 J' N., has a reef pro-
jecting to the S.S.W. ; but the channel is safe between it and Culebra
Island, having 30 fathoms water, and the point may be approached occa-
sionally to 10 fathoms .on the tail of the reef,

Seno de Bazol, or Tamhove Road. — The channel between Culebra Island
and Caiman Point leads to the extensive bay called the Seno de Bazol, or as
formerly Tambove Eoad, which lies to the eastward of Caiman Point, and
is open only to southerly winds. There appears to be many detached reefs
in it. Steering for the extremity of the beach, to the eastward of the point,
the depths will be 12 to 15 fathoms, coarse sand and shells, near the termi-
nation of the beach ; the water will then deepen, but until in soft mud it
will be improper to anchor, for rocks are scattered over the bottom, whore it
consists of sand.

Wood and good water may be got here.

The Coast. — From Caiman Point to the entrance point of the Bay of
Lingayen, the land is level, of moderate height and sterile aspect, with
a steep beach fronting the sea, and may be seen in clear weather about 24
miles. The coast in this space is bold to approach, having no ground at
50 fathoms within a mile of it in many places ; there are soundings near the

LINOAYEN GULF. 603

beach in some of the small bays, where a vessel may anchor occasionally,
but there is no safe place of shelter for large ships.

LINGAYEN GULF, or Pangminan Gulf, the entrance to which between
Purra Island off Bolinao on the West and Punta de San Fernando on the
East, is 17 miles wide, and from the line joining them to its head at the
town of Lingayen 26 miles in depth, is very extensive, formed by the low
land oi Cabahijjan Island, taking a south-easterly direction about 12 miles;
and then the Mongos-Mongos chain of islets and rocks, extending along it
nearly S.E. by S., lines the West side of the bay.

The Gulf is about 30 miles deep, and about 20 miles wide across the
entrance, from Santiago Island to San Fernando Point, or Balanac. Lin-
gayen Eiver, a place of some trade, disembogues at the bottom of the bay,
and into which the small coasting vessels can pass over the bar. The rivers
San Fabian and San Thomas are farther eastward, the former directly in the
S.E. angle of the bay.

Port Sual. — About U or 2 miles to the southward of the high islet Cala-
niitian, which is the last of the Mongos-Mongos chain, there is good an-
chorage in muddy bottom, at the entrance of a small port, called Sual, into
which a ship might be warped, should circumstances render it necessary.

Navigating Lieut. Harvey, of H.M.S. Magicienne, in 1859, made a rough
plan of Port Sual, and furnished the following account : —

The port is of small extent, the entrance narrowed by rocks and reefs to
the breadth of about a third of a mile, while an extensive coral bank, with
but 5 ft. water over it, fills up a large portiun of the port.

The land about Portuguese Point, the northern point of entrance of the
port, appears like an island when viewed from a distance of 7 or 8 miles ;
the point may be recognized by a small round tower on its bluff, and be-
tween it and Calamitian Island the ground is foul, with rocks just awash.
A reef extends nearly 1 J cable's length from Portuguese Point. It is always
covered, and the sea breaks upon it only when the wind sets in. Matigos or
Mamas Point, the southern point of entrance, has rocks extending some dis-
tance from it; but they are always uncovered, and may be approached to
half a cable's length. In the S.W. part of the port is the village, which
has a church and a small landing jetty. Mr. Harvey made the position of
Port Sual to be lat. 16° 7' 20" N., long. 120° 2' 44" E., and the rise of tide
6 feet.

When approaching the port, keep about H or 2 miles from Calamitian or
Calamitian Island, steering for Manzas Point ; pass the outer rock off that
point at the distance of half a cable's length, and then steer for the church,
taking care to avoid the large coral patch, the southern edge of which lies
between the N.E. point of the port and the church, bearing from each
other N.E. ^ E. and S.W. i W. ; anchor in o or 4} fathoms.

604 N.W. COASTS OF rHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

DILE POINT, in lat. 17° 34 J' N., long. 120° 20^' E., is the most promi-
nent point of this part of the coast, projecting far to the north-westward.
Between it and San Fernando Point there are several towns along the coast.
The country is formed of high double mountains, with low woody points to
seaward in some places, and the direction of the coast is mostly North and
N. by E. H.M.S. Samarang met with a dangerous patch in the bay near
Dile Point, 2^ miles offshore, a church bearing E.S.E.

Vigan or Bigan Road, in lat. 17° 24' N., is sheltered from northerly ^inda
by Dile Point, but exposed to the southward and westward. A patch of 3^
fathoms is marked on the chart about a mile off shore. The anchorage is
near the shore, off the river, bearing about East, in 10 or 12 fathoms; the
bank shelves suddenly off to no soundings. About 9 miles inland to the
E.N.E. of the road there is a chasm between two mountains, called Abra de
Vigan, or Gap of Vigan, which is very conspicuous when riewed from the
oflSng, and is a good mark to know this part of the coast.

Lepog or Salut-Salut Bay, at 11 miles north-eastward of Dile Point, is
sheltered from all winds but those that blow between S.W. and W.N.W.
There are good depths in it, and the reefs bounding the entrance, with a
rocky bank in the mouth of the bay, will be seen in clear weather. The
rocky bank has 1 and 2 fathoms on it, with a passage on each side of 9 or 10
fathoms water ; but that to the northward, between it and the North point
of the bay, is too contracted.

The coast from Vigan Eoad to this bay should be given a good berth, for
Pingiie or Finget Island, or Bantay, surrounded by breakers and foul ground,
lies about 1 J mile off the projecting part of the land to the southward of
Lepog Bay ; and to the northward of it the coast is lined with coral reefs,
stretching out a great way, as far as the entrance of Lepog Bay.

PORT SALOMAGUE, adjoining to the northward of Lepog Bay, is sepa-
rated from it by a point of land encompassed with shoals. "West from this
point, IJ and 2 miles distant, are two rocky banks, with 2J fathoms, or pro-
bably less, water on them. This port is more capacious, sheltered from the
same winds, and deeper than Lepog Bay.

The North point is also, like the southern one, encompassed with a reef,
■which stretches to the eastward along the northern side of the port ; and an
island of moderate height lies about three-quarters of a mile from the point,
with a reef projecting off it about a cable's length to the S.W. This place
may be known from the oflfing by a chasm or gap in some high mountains,
■which overtop the rest of the chain on this coast. It resembles the Gap of
Vigan, but it is not so large, nor does it approach so near the sea as that
gap ; it may also be seen bearing about S.E., when a ship is 12 or 13 miles
West of Salomague Bay. When the Gap of Salomague bears about E. \ S.,
an East course will lead direct towards Salomague Island at the North
point of the port, which should be approached in a large ship, bearing about

CAPE BOJEADOR. 605

East ; and the reef off its S.W. point ought to be passed close in 25 or 30
fathoms, mud, to avoid the rocky banks that lie to the westward of the South
point of the port ; she may then eteer right in the middle of the port, rather
inclining towards the northern shore, and anchor in 8 fathoms. Farther in
there is a shoal spot, which will be perceived in clear weather by the dis-
coloured water on it. The best berth to moor is in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud,
opposite some rice magazines on the North shore.

The Coast from Port Salomague trends about N. by E. to Cape Bojeador ;
in the bight to the southward of the cape there is said to be anchorage near
the shore ; in some parts the coast is low and woody to seaward.

The chain of high mountains inland, which commences near St. Fabian,
in the Gulf of Lingayen, extends parallel to the coast, gradually diminishing
in height, and stretching more inland about 24 miles to the southward of
Cape Bojeador, leaves a spacious plain fronting the sea. Another chain of
hills begins about 7 or 8 miles from the shore, and stretches northward
parallel to the coast-line.

About 9 miles northward of Salomague is Badog or Sinay Isle, about half
a mile oflF a point of land, surrounded by a reef; and the coast between
these places is rocky, with breakers projecting from it about a mile.

Ilara Hummock stands near the sea, about 9 miles southward of Cape Bo-
jeador ; being of middling height, with patches of trees on it, and there being
no other of similar appearance, it is a good mark in sailing along the coast.
Soundings are got about 3 miles off shore from Salomague to Ilara Hum-
mock, but from 4 or 5 miles beyond the latter to Cape Bojeador, none are
obtained at the distance of 2 miles from the shore ; and the whole of this
part of the coast is destitute of shelter for ships, and has rocky patches
stretching out above a mile in some places.

CAPE BOJEADOR, in lat. 18° 30' N., long. 120° 34' E., is a low point
with a reef of breakers projecting off it, which forms the north-western
extreme of Luzon. From hence the coast takes a N.E. direction, and at
the distance of 6 miles is Negra Point, on the East side of which is anchorage
•with southerly winds. The deep bay between this point and Dialao Point,
9 miles to the N.E., has much foul ground on its eastern shore. There is
anchorage at the bottom of this bay, near the small port of Bangui, which is
said to have been long shut up by an earthquake.

Cauagan or Mereira or Mayraira Point, distant about 20 miles N.E. of Cape
Bojeador, has a reef projecting about a mile out. Caravallo or Patapat Point,
bearing about E. by S. 11 or 12 miles from Cauagan Point, is a bluff, steep
point of white cliffs, having a mass of high mountains, the Montes Patapa,
contiguous to it. To the eastward of Caravallo Point there is a round hill
of middling height, called Pata Point. The whole of the coast from Cape
Bojeador to this place is steep, without any soundings until near the shore.

606 N.W. COASTS OF PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

The land is of moderate height, and in some parts rather low close to the
sea, with several rivers ; but the country inland is high and mountainous.

SCARBOROUGH or Maroona Shoal was surveyed by Nav. Lieut. Wilda
in H.M.S. Swallow, March, 1866. It is a dangerous coral reef, rising out of
deep water, and it affords, and that only in the calmest weather, a single
precarious anchorage off the entrance to the lagoon, at its south-eastern
extremity. The opening to the lagoon is about 2 cables wide, but it is dan-
gerous from the large jutting pieces of coral extending from point to point,
over which there are only 9 ft. water, with 5 and 6 fathoms close to; jutst
within it shallows.

The reef consists of a narrow belt of coral, nearly level with the water's
edge, enclosing a lagoon of clear blue water. On the belt are scattered several
rocks 3 to 10 ft. above water, visible about 5 miles. The 10-ft. rock is l^
mile S.W. of the opening. In shape the reef is a right-angled triangle,
•with the corners rounded off, the western side being nearly perpendicular to
the southern, the direction of the three sides being S. f E. 7^ miles, S.E.
by E. 10 miles, and E. J N. 8 miles. The South side and North point are
in lat. 15° 5' N. and 15° 12' N. respectively, and the West side and East
point in long. 117° 44' and 117° 52' E.

In March, 1866, the current ran strong to the westward; in April, 1853,
its direction was very doubtful in the proximity of the reef. It is high
water, full and change, about 1 1*", and the rise is 5 ft.

The TRTJRO SHOAL, in lat. 16° 19' N., long. 116° 41' E., was discovered
by Capt. T. J. Duggan, of the ship Truro, in September, 1857. He states,
" Whilst taking my forenoon observation, distinctly saw the bottom, white
coral. Got a cast of the lead instantly at 10 fathoms; again, about half a
mile more North, had 19 fathoms; steered North for another half mile, and
had 22 fathoms, and the next cast no bottom at 40 fathoms ; no shoal patches
were visible from the mast-head."

PRATAS ISLAND and REEF was surveyed by Navigating Lieutenant
John Eichards, E.N., April, 1858. Patras Island, the N.E. end of which
is in lat. 20° 42' 3" N., long. 116° 43' 22" E., rises from the West side, and
near the middle of the sunken part of the Pratas Eeef It is about 1 J mile
long, E. by S. and W. by N., half a mile wide, and 40 ft. high, of which
elevation the scrubby bush, with which it is covered, forms about 10 feet.
It is composed of sand, not a particle of mould or earthy matter could be
found on it, and its shape is that of a horse-shoe, enclosing a shallow inlet
or lagoon, which runs into its western side for about half a mile, and must
afford shelter to the Chinese fishermen who come here to fish in the early
part of the year. Brackish water can bo obtained by digging a few feet

PRATAS ISLAND AND EEEF. 607

into the sand. Gannets are numerous, and may be knocked down with
sticks.

The island is visible at a distance of 9 or 10 miles, in clear weather, from
the deck of a large vessel ; from the westward it will make like two detached
but contiguous islets, the centre being lower than the ends. It is visible
when near the southern extreme of the reef, but more conspicuous when
approaching it from the westward or northward.

The N.E. point of Pratas Eeef is in about lat. 20= 47' N., long. 116°
53' E., is a coral barrier of nearly circular form, encircling a lagoon of 5 to
10 fathoms water, and thickly studded with coral knolls round its margin,
but comparatively clear near the middle. The reef is about 40 miles in cir-
cumference, 1 to 2 miles broad, and slightly flattened on the northern side.
Nearly two-thirds of it, or the North, East, and South sides, are just dry at
low-water springs ; the remainder, or western side, forms a sunken barrier,
across which are two channels leading into the lagoon, one on each side of
Pratas Island. The North channel is about 3 miles wide, between the
island and the edge of the breakers, and 3 fathoms may be carried near the
middle of it at low-water springs. The South channel is by far the better
of the two, from being wider, a little deeper, as well as its comparative free-
dom from coral knolls.

Tides. — During the survey of Pratas Eeef, April, 1858, it was high water,
full and change, at about 4 a.m., and the rise was about 5 ft. There was
only one perceptible ebb and one flow in the 24 hours at the springs. The
highest tide occurred on the third day after the full moon, but the tides were
very irrpgular.

Anchorage. — Although Pratas Eeef is steep-to in most parts, there are
several spots where, in case of necessity, a vessel might find anchorage out-
side the breakers, particularly on the West side, abreast the middle of the
channels through the sunken part of the reef, and at the distance of about
lA or 2 miles on either side of the island. At each of these spots there is
good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, in 20 to 10 fathoms, but the position
abreast the South channel is considered the best, the sunken reef at this
part being deeper and the bottom more even than in the channel North of
the island. A vessel of light draught might even anchor in safety on the
reef, in the middle of the South channel in 3^ fathoms at low water, or cross
it and take up a berth inside the lagoon in 10 fathoms, fine sand.

Captain Eoss, I.N., visited this reef in the Discovery^ with the Investigator
in company, August, 1813. The first soundings obtained were 74 fathoms,
fine coral, about U or 2 miles fi'om the N.E. point ; from thence the former
vessel steered along the North side, about three-quarters of a mile from the
breakers, in soundiugs of 31 to 38 fathoms; the Investigator keeping about
a quarter of a mile off, had great overfalls of 10 to 24 fathoms. After
rounding the N.W. part of the reef about a mile off in 35 fathoms, rocky

608 PEATAS ISLAND AND EEEF.

bottom, they anchored in 24 fathoms, about 1 J mile from the West end of
the island, with the island bearing from S.E. ^ S. to E.S.E. About half-
way between this position and the shore the depths were 4 and 5 fathoms,
and then very shoal water.

H.M.S. Higliflyer, in May, 1857, anchored about 8 cables' lengths from
the West end of the island, in 20 fathoms, coral and clay, the extremes
bearin"- S.E. f E. and E. by S. She also anchored, with stream anchor, at
half a mile from the S.E. edge of the reef, in 32 fathoms, white mud, with
the centre of the island N.W. ^ W. distant 10 miles ; there were 13 fathoms
water at 2 cables' lengths from the edge of the reef, and 7 fathoms at a short
distance from the edge. In April, 1859, H.M. steam gunboat Leven an-
chored three-quarters of a mile off shore in 5 fathoms, with the centre of the
island bearing E. by N.

Caution — When beating against, or running with, the strength of the
monsoon up or down the China Sea, vessels should always endeavour to pass
to leeward of Pratas Reef, on account of the invariable set of the current to
l-eeward ; for there are no soundings to indicate a near approach, and the
weatlier is frequently thick and hazy in this vicinity. The safest quarter to
make the reef is irom the N.W., the island being on its western side, and
the currents in the neighbourhood invarjubly running in a N.E. or S.W.
direction according to the monsoon. Approaching the reef, a vessel should
be conned from the fore-top. The sun should be well above the horizon,
and if possible astern or on the beam, as the bottom can then be easily seen
in 10 fathoms.

The Uossach Shoals were said to have been seen by Mr. Hossack, com-
manding the ship Cyclone, 9th August, 1861. He reports, " When standing
to the N.W., wind W.S.W., tacked ship, having seen two patches, the
easternmost of which appeared to be very shoal, about 2 or 3 fathoms water,
extending about 400 ft., and the water breaking on it. From good observa-
tions the position of the reef is lat. 21° 31' N., long. 117° 7' E." These
ehoals were sought for in vain by H.M.S. Serpent in 1866.

CHAPTER XY.

THE CHINA SEA, WITH ITS ISLANDS AND DANGERS.

The great channel between the continent of Asia on the N.W., and the line
of the islands of the Indian Archipelago between Borneo and the Philippines
on the opposite side, have been described in previous pages.

The Coasts of Malaya and the Gulf of Siam are described in Chapter X,
pages 400 to 427. — The Coasts of Cochin China and Ton King, with the
Island of Hainan, are given in Chapter XI, pages 428 — 480. — The North-
West Coast of Borneo, in Chapter XII, pages 480 to 512. Palawan Island
and the Philippine Islands are included in Chapters XIII and XIV, pages
513— 608.— The k^outh-AVest part of the China Sea, or that between the
North coast of Java and the Coasts of Sumatra and Borneo, is described,
with its detached islands and shoals, in Chapter VIII, pages 295 — 356.

The CHINA SEA, although the main ship route towards the long fre-
quented parts of China, was but imperfectly understood previous to the
examination commenced by Lieut. J. W. Peed, P.N., in H.M.S. Rifle-
man. Before this, the charts were disfigured by numerous shoals, which
closer examination showed to be either non-existent, or placed so far out of
their true positions as to have been announced at different times as distinct
dangers, widely separated.

The important results of Lieut. Reed's survey have been to show that
there are two clear channels, free from all known danger, the one to the
N.W. upwards of 230 miles in breadih between the coasts of Cochin China
and a line of reefs and dangers lying along the centre of the China Sea,
generally parallel with its limiting coast. The other channel, termed the
Palawan Passage, lies between the reefs on the edge of the bank of sound-
ings on the N.W. side of that island and the S.E. limit of that apparent
archipelago of reefs which limits the northern channel.

The labours of the officers in command of the Rifleman have wisely been
confined in the outset in determining the outer limits of this line of dangers,

I. A. 4 I

610 THE CHINA SEA.

and the result has been not merely the determining of the exact character of
many previously announced reefs and banks, but proving the non-existence
or wrong identity of others, and the discovery of several new groups of
banks, which are not dangerous, but will serve as excellent points of verifi-
cation and departure in this troublesome navigation.

The currents of this region, also, do not appear to be well understood, and
some remarks by Captain Pulack, on pages 85 — 91, will be read with in-
terest, as giving the result of much experience in these waters, and the best
means of utilizing every slant of wind or current in making a direct passage
against the adverse monsoon, instead of the very circuitous routes formerly
advocated.

From the fact of its dangers having thus disappeared, and those which are
determined having shown that there are safe routes under the lee of either
shore, it is probable that a gi-eat portion of the commerce will pass through
this main ship channel, instead of being carried through the distant and im-
perfectly known passages to the eastward of Borneo.

The S.W. portion of the China Sea, which has been previously described,
is separated from the main area by three groups of islands, the Anamba
Islands and the two clusters of the Natuna Islands, which have broad and
safe channels between them. In describing these, we follow, as heretofore,
the compilation published by the British Admiralty.

THE ANAMBA ISLANDS.

The westernmost group, termed by Europeans the Anambas, is not known
by that name to the natives. They are mountainous and sterile, and the
scanty products of the land and sea are disposed of by the few Malay inha-
bitants at Singapore. Formerly they had an evil name for piracy, but are
now peaceful traders and fishermen, nominally subject to the Dutch, a flag
of that nation being shown at Terempa, where a magistrate is appointed.

The approach to the group from the westward is not dangerous, and the
French surveys of this part, made in 1828 and 1831, may be used with
confidence.

Climate. — From the vegetation and the stout build of the people, the
climate must be considered very favourable. While the avei-age tempera-
ture in Bangkok and in the Gulf of Siam had been, in daytime in the shade,
93° to 95°, and at night 88° to 90^', it was at the Anamba Islands only, re-
spectively, 84° and 77°. The cause of this low temperature appears to be the
frequent heavy rains, preceded by fresh breezes. (Corvette Nj/mphe, June,
1873.)

The SOUTHERN GROUP consists of the White Eock, high above water,
in lat. 2° 20' N., long. 105° 34' E., and the following islands :—

THE ANAMBA ISLANDS. RU

Pulo Repon, or Saddle Island, in lat. 2° 25' N., long. 105° 52' E., the
most southern island of the group, is about three-quarters of a mile in
extent. Captain Goldsmith, of H. M.S. Hyacinth, states that this island has
discoloured water three-quarters of a mile off its N.E. end, with regular
soundings of 33 and 35 fathoms, sand and shells, about 1^ mile to the west-
ward of it.

Capt. Laplace, of the French Imperial corvette La Favorite, in April, 1831,
passed about midway between White Kock and Pulo Eepon, carrying depths
from 30 to 34 fathoms, muddy bottom.

Baua is a small group, about 1 1 miles north-eastward of Eepon ; and
about 15 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from Baua is another small group, called
Kittan, in lat. 2° 39' N. This last group forms the south-eastern limit of the
Anamba Islands.

The Riabu Group extends from about 5 to 13 miles N.N.W. of the Rittan
group. Pulo Eiabu is a high island, about 6 miles in extent, having a much
smaller island, named Piling, close to the westward of it, and several islets
and roclcs off its S.E. extreme.

The WESTERN GROUP comprises a high island, called DJimaJa, about
14 miles in length, with several small islands, nearly joining each other, off
its N.W. extreme ; their N.W. limit is in lat. 3° 5' N., long. 105° 32' E., and
the South point of the large island is in lat. 2° 50' N. Djimaja has a peak
on it, and a bay on the North side, with islets and reefs about a mile distant
on the western side, and soundings of 24 to 35 fathoms near them.

Courier Rock. — There is a sunken rock, on which the Courier struck, in
lat. 2° 58' N., about 3 miles from the western shore of Djimaja, and nearly
the same distance S.W. ^ S. from Joulan Point, which projects to the west-
ward near the parallel of 3° N.

Pulo Domar, in lat. 2° 45' N., long. 105° 25' E., and the most western of
the Anamba Islands, is a high, barren rock, with 34 or 36 fathoms water
close to it, 35 to 40 fathoms between it and Djimaja, and 32 to 39 fathoms
in the channel between it and Pulo Aor. Sir E. Belcher states it to be 150
feet high, and that in fine weather safe landing may be found on its S.E.
extreme.

Telaga Group.— Telaga or Peaked Island, in lat. 3° 5' N., and about 8
miles north-eastward of the East end of Djimaja, is about 3 miles in extent,
and has a high peak on its northern end. Close to its N.W. end is Little
Telaga, an island about half its size, and close to its western side are some
islets and rocks.

Some groups of small islands lie between Telaga and Eiabu, and others
between the former island and the northern group.*

* In sailing round the northern group of the Anamba Islands, Telaga or Peaked Island
is a most remarkiible object, and appeared higher than any land about it. Douraij Island

612 THE CHINA SEA.

The NORTHERN GROUP of the Anamba Islands is comprised between
the parallels of 3^ and 3° 30' N. Its western portion consists of tliree large
islands, and there are numerous smaller ones to the south-eastward, with
other detached islets. The longitude of the most eastern islets is 106° 29' E.
The larger islands are inhabited, and abound with fruits and vegetables.

Captain Laplace examined this group in 1831, and he makes the three
large islands to extend from lat. 3° 9' to 3° 27J' N., the two northernmost,
called Mata and Molur, having a channel about a mile wide between them,
called Selamata (more properly Selat-Mata), with depths of 15 to 28 fathoms
in the South entrance and middle part ; but the northern part has several
isles and rocks, and appears, by the chart of the survey, not to have been
examined. Between the South point of Mobur, the westernmost island, and
Mangar Island, fronting it about a mile distant to the westward, is the
entrance of a deep inlet, named Paris Cove, which extends about 3 miles to
the northward into Mobiir, nearly dividing that island into two sections ; th©
general depths in it are 23 to 17 fathoms, decreasing near the shore at the
upper part, and it appears to form a safe harbour. The German corvette
Ntjmphe, in June, 1873, anchored in 18 fathoms of water, with a house on the
West side of the cove bearing W.S.W., and the S.E. point of the bay S.E.
^ S. A supply of good water was procured, but no provisions.

Siantan, the southern large island, fronts tlie South end of Mata, being
separated from it by a channel from 1 to 1| mile wide, in which the depths
are from 10 to 24 fathoms. The eastern entrance of this channel is ob-
structed by a chain of shoals, but there is thought to be a narrow passage,
with from 5 to 9 fathoms water, to the southward of them, by keeping close
along the reef that borders the eastern side of Siantan. The western entrance
of the channel is formed by Tnpinier Say, which is 3 miles wide between
Pedasse Point, the N.W. extreme of Siantan, and the South point of Man-
gar, which bear nearly North and South of each other ; the centre of the
entrance is in lat. 3° 16^' N., with depths from 24 to 32 fathoms.

Terempa. — About IJ ofiil® inside Pedasse Point, is Terempa village, at
the bottom of a small bay, where a vessel might anchor in from 10 to 15
fathoms, sandy bottom, sheltered from all winds. Terempa, containing 300
or 400 inhabitants, is the chief place of the group, and the residence of the
native magistrate appointed by the Dutch. The German corvette Nymphe
anchored here in 20i fathoms water, with Rigni Island bearing N.W. by N.
and Pedasse Point W. by N.

is high, about the same height as Paat Island. Sendock is a low rock, and will not be seen
till Namas Island (which is high and one mass of large rocks) bears about S.E. Guerite
Kock, -when first seen, makes like a topsail schooner ; on a nearer approach the stone on the
summit appears like the top of a lighthouse, and on a S.W. bearing, like a schooner running
before the wind. — Navigating Lieutenant J, W. King, H.M.S. Vernon, June, 1847.

NATUNA ISLANDS. 613

Two miles eastward of Terempa a bay is formed in the N.E. part of
Siantan, with depths of 10 to 15 fathoms near tlie reef that borders the
shore, where it would appear by the chart ships might anchor comj^letely
landlocked.

The following is from the report of the German corvette Nymphe, 1873 : —

From Terempa we steered southerly around Siantan Island for the
southern entrance of Clermont Channel, but we found the chart too incom-
plete. "We therefore proceeded North through Thetis Channel, along the
eastern shore of Bougainville Island, for the northern entrance of Port
Clermont, which, according to the chart, was to be looked for in a south-
westerly direction from a cliff running out to the North. This we found to
be correct ; but the eastern coast of Bougainville Island proved to be quite
different from that represented on the chart, on which it trended first about
2 miles North and South, and then 2 miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., with a
small bight midway of the latter part, while in fact there were two bays,
the southernmost of which was about a mile deep, with an entrance similar
to Port Clermont, with depths of from 11 to 17 fathoms ; the northern bay
■was wider and of less depth. The southern bay is quite foul, and, as the
entrance much resembles that of Port Clermont, may be dangerous.

In Port Clermont we found the reefs and shoals to extend considerably
into the channel, rendering it quite narrow. The hilly shores are every-
where steep-to ; the harbour is quite roomy, and, having three entrances,
would be an excellent place of refuge when better surveyed. The water in
the creek shown on the chart is in such small quantity that it would hardly
BufB.ce for one vessel.

NATUNA ISLANDS.

The name given by Europeans to these groups is entirely tmknown to the
Malay inhabitants. They own allegiance to the Prince of Johore, who lives
under British protection at Singapore. The larger islands only are inha-
bited, and according to Mr. Crawfurd, the Great Natuna had a population of
600, the northern group 300, and the southern 400, making a total of 1,300.
The islands are rocky and sterile, and the few articles of trade, fish, raw-
sago, and cocoa-nut oil, are exchanged in the straits of Malacca for rice,
clothing, and iron.

The northern groups were examined by Captain Laplace, in the French
Imperial corvette La Favorite, in 1831, and a survey was made by Lieutenant
E. Paris. The South Natuna Islands were surveyed by the late Lieutenant
D. M. Gordon, E.N., in H.M.S. Royalist, in 1847.

The Natuna Islands extend in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction to the distance of
100 miles from Tanjimg Api, the N.W. extreme of Borneo. They may be

614 THE CHINA SEA.

divided into three groups,— the South Natuna, near Borneo; the Great
Natuna and its contiguous islets ; and the North Natuna.

SOUTH NATUNA ISLANDS, — This group extends from the coast of Bor-
neo to about lat. 3° 3' N. ; it is subdivided by a safe channel, and the outside
channel, between it and Great Natuna, is spacious. The two principal
islands are Sirhassen and Subi.

Marundum, the southernmost island of the group, is in lat. 2° 4' N., long.
109° 7i' E., and bears from Tanjong Api N.AV. by W. i W., 14 miles. It
is about a mile in extent, and 120 ft. high. A reef, which dries, lies about
a mile off its AVest side, and there is a patch of 4^ fathoms about the
same distance from its N.E. side. The soundings round about are very
irregular.

API PASSAGE, the channel between the coast of Borneo and Marundum,
appears to be free from danger, with depths varying from 11 to 23 fathoms.
The description of the adjacent coast of Borneo will be found on pages 2S7
and 480, ante.

South Haycock Island, in lat. 2° 17' N,, long. 108° 55^' E., is a mere islet,
said to be, however, very conspicuous ; it is surrounded to the distance of
about a tliird of a mile by a reef, and there appears to be an islet, or rock
above water, close to the southward of it.

Sembuni and Moln Shoals comprise an extensive mass of dangers lying
between Marundum and Sirhassen. The Sembuni is the name given to that
portion which lies nearer to Marundum, the channel between that island and
the shoals being 7 or 8 miles wide, free from danger, but with depths vary-
ing from 8 to 16 fathoms. The Larkin Shoal, of Horsburgh, appears to be
one of the Sembuni patches.

The Molu Shoals lie to the eastward of Haycock Island, and cover a space
about 5 miles in extent ; the channel between the island and the shoals is
about 5 miles wide,, with depths varying from 11 to 20 fathoms.

A rock is placed on the chart 4 or 5 miles to the N.E. of the Molu patches,
■with Prantou Island bearing N. I E. 5^ miles, and the apex of Brian Island
N.W. i W. 13 miles. To the eastward of this rock is a space 7 or 8 miles
in extent, which has not been sounded over, and where it is probable other
dangers may exist.

SIRHASSEN PASSAGE is bounded on the South by Haycock Island and
the northern part of the shoals and dangers just described, and on the North
by Sirhassen and its contiguous islands. Its narrowest part, between the
rock N.E. of the Molu Shoals and Prantou Island, is about o miles wide,
and appears to be free from danger, although the soundings here, as else-
where in this neighbourhood, are very irregular, 14 to 40 fathoms.

SIEHASSEN GROUP. — Sirhassen or Ififfh Island, is 9 miles long. East and
West, and represented on the chart as mountainous, except on its N.E. side.

NATUNxV ISLANDS— SUBI GROUP. 615

■where the lofty extremes of the island have a low sandy bay between them.
Nearly joining the island on its S.W. side are several islets, the largest of
wliich, Brian Island, is 760 ft. high. These islets, having but very narrow
channels between them, must at a distance appear as part of the main island.
The chain of islets running about 7 miles in a N.N.E. direction from the
N.E. point of Sirhassen, give a partial shelter from the north-easterly winds
to vessels which may anchor in the sandy bay before mentioned, the depths
in which are from 10 to 17 fathoms.

It is reported that the ship Lighifoot, Pierce, master, from Whampoa to
London, struck on a coral shoal the 3rd September, 1854, about 3^ miles
to the westward of Sirhassen Island, in la'o. 2° 32' N., long. 108° 58' E. ;
■whilst the ship was on shore, found the current was setting to the eastward
3 knots per hour.

Prantoii, a small island, 465 ft. high, lies nearly 3 miles to the southward
of the eastern extreme of Sirhassen, with a deep channel of 20 to 40 fathoms
between them.

Royalist Haven is on the S.W. and "West side of Sirhassen Island. The
leading mark in is IToimt Koti [l&o ft. high, on the N.W. part of the island),
on with David Point bearing N.N.W. The entrance is about 2 cables wide
between Rimell and Wilkinson Eocks, with 7 to 10 fathoms in the channel,
and 7 to 1 1 fathoms in the haven ; there are several rocky heads with deep
water between them in and near the anchorage, in 9 or 10 fathoms, nearly
half a mile within the entrance, though a vessel of large draught may thread
her way between the coral heads at least 2 miles within the entrance towards
Banff Bay to the N.N.W. The Dutch have or had a small supply of coal
on Sirhassen Island.

KOTI PASSAGE is the name of the channel between Sirhassen and
Pulo Panjung, dividing the South Natuna group into two divisions. It is
9 or 10 miles wide, and appears, with the exception of the Milton Shoal, to
be quite free from danger, although 'the depths are very irregular, 15 to 30
fathoms generally, with some deeper holes — no bottom 35 to 37 fathoms
— near mid-channel.

This passage is often used by vessels proceeding from Singapore to
Hong Kong against the N.E. monsoon, and which are unable to weather
Subi.

Milton Shoal. — Capt. Le Boutillier, of the John Milton, reports a shoal in
the Koti Passage, as follows : — " On the 22nd September, 1869, passed over
a shoal, where on the chart is marked 20 fathoms water. This shoal is
about a quarter of a mile in breadth, the bottom of large round coral stones;
found no less than 28 ft. of water, being very smooth at the time, seeing the
bottom quite plain, vessel going at the rate of one mile per hour. At the
same time took several cross bearings, and found the said shoal to be in
lat. 2° 37' N., long. 108° 50' E."

616 , THE CHINA SEA.

STJBI GROUP. — Subi or Soiihi, or Flat Island, the northernmost and largest
island of the South Natuna, is about 12 miles long North and South, and
5 miles wide, including an island about 2 miles in extent o£f its northern end,
to which it is connected by a reef It is also apparently connected with, the
smaller island of Panjung and its neighbouring islets, lying 7 miles to the
S.S.E. by the rocky bank on which both seem to be based.

Subi appears to be surrounded, except on its S.W. side, with shelving
rocks, to the distance of 2 or 3 miles, and on their outer edge are several
rocky islets, the principal of which is Bucu, on the West side of Panjung,
completely detached; and 16 miles south-westward of Subi is the hilly island
called Serai, or West Island, in lat. 2° 40' N., long. 108° 35' E., with the
Doua Eock I J mile north-eastward of it.

Pumumahung Reef, lying about 3 miles West of the Panjung group, is
about 2 miles in extent. East to West, by one mile North and South, with,
soundings of 4 to 15 fathoms near it. There is also a rocky patch, the
Jahak Reef, at Z\ miles N.N.W. of this ; and West of the latter, and North,
distant 3^ miles of the Doua Eock, is the Jaring Reef, which is a rock with
a bank extending about 3 miles to the north-eastward from it. There is also
a rocky patch called Laid Reef, off the East side of Subi, about 2J miles out-
side the reef surrounding the island, from which the hill, 200 ft. high, on
the northern extreme of Subi bears N.W. \ W., and the eastern apex of
Pulo Panjung S. by W. f W. Vessels should be cautious in approaching
the eastern side of Subi.

The Soundings round the South Natuna group vary from 10 and 15 to 30
and 40 fathoms, and to the south-eastward extend to the coast of Borneo in
average depths of 14 to 20 fathoms.

Current. — The current at times is strong among the South Natuna Is-
lands, according to the prevailing winds. In the Koti Passage it has some-
times been found to run 2^ miles per hour to the northward, during the
southerly monsoon.

The Channel between Subi and Low Island is ordinarily used by vessels
proceeding to China by the Palawan route, during the N.E. monsoon, al-
though, as has been previously remarked, it sometimes happens that vessels
are unable to weather Subi, and find it convenient to proceed through the
Koti Passage. Low Island lies 60 miles to the westward of Subi, but the
channel is narrowed to about 50 miles by reefs which lie eastward and south-
eastward of Low Island.

LOW ISLAND, in lat. 3=^ 0' N., long. 107° 48' E., is in extent about 3 J
miles North and South, and 2J miles East and West, having shoal water
extending to a considerable distance from its eastern and western sides. The
following dangers render great caution necessary in passing to the southward
of it:—

JACKSON EEEF lies off the S.E. part of Low Island, in lat. 2° 56' N.,

NATUNA ISLANDS- G17

long. 107° 55' E. The bottom was perceived in 14 fathoms, coral, and the
boat in sounding near the ship, had from 5 to 7 fathoms, coral ; in one jjlace
only 43. fathoms, with apparently less water on other patches of this coral
ehoal, which extends about 2 miles in a S.E. and N.W. direction, bearing
from the East point of Low Island E.S.E., distant about 6 miles. This shoal
ought to be avoided, as well as Hutton Eeefs to the northward ; they may
probably be a continuation of the chain of shoals formed of coral patches, now
ascertained to exist in the proximity of Low Island.

Hutton Reefs are thus described in the journal of Mr. Howard : — Observ-
ing shoal water to extend a long distance off the East and "West ends of Low
Island, edged out to give it a wide berth in passing on the South side. From
10 a.m. to noon steered E. by S. 3 miles, and East 2 miles, when discoloured
water was seen bearing East ; hauled up N.E. by N. to go between it and
the island, the extremes of the latter then bearing from N.W. by N. to W.
by N., distant about 3 miles, observed lat. 2° 59' N.

In passing between the shoal and island, the least water was 8 fathoms,
rocks, with the East part of the island bearing S.W. by W. ^ W. 3 miles,
and the nearest patch of shoal water S.E. This appears to be an extensive
shoal, consisting of patches, and formed in the shape of a horse-shoe. After
passing between it and Low Island, sent the first officer in a boat to examine
the nearest patch, on which he had 3J fathoms, pyramidal rocks, and there
is probably less water on some of the patches, with channels between them.
The South or outer patch appeared to lie 4 or 4i miles from Low Island in
an E. by N. or N.E. direction.

Diana Reefs.— This dangerous coral reef, lying to the N.N.W. of Low
Island, is thus described by Lieutenant Kempthorne, who grounded upon it
in H.M. brig Diana : — Saw the bottom, and sounded in 4f fathoms, but lost
the lead, by its getting fixed in the coral. Wore to the eastward, and had
5 J, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 17 fathoms, then no bottom at 20 fathoms. The boat sent
to sound had 3 J fathoms, and several casts of Sf fathoms on the points of
coral, with deep water between them ; two spots of discolored water, one
bearing South, and the other S.W. by W. about 2 miles, appeared much
shoaler than where the boat sounded. The shoal seemed to extend N.E.
by E., and S.W. by W. ly miles ; no broken water was visible upon it, but
when the swell rolled over the points of coral, it resembled a shoal of fish.

When the bottom was first seen in 4| fathoms, the N.E. point of Low
Island bore S.E., and the N.W. point, with the S.W. point just open of it,
bore S.S.E. ^ E., Haycock Island, N. 43° W., distant from Low Island about
9 or 10 miles. Where the boat sounded, she had nearly the same bearings,
but was half a mile more to the N.W., with Haycock Island just in sight
from her.

Caution. — The channel between the Natuna and Anamba Islands ia wide

I. A. 4 £

618 THE CHINA SEA.

and safe in daylight ; but as several coral spots with but little water on them
have been discovered in the vicinity of the Natunas, a good look-out is neces-
eaiy, as other shoal patches, yet unknown, may probably exist.

Yong Sahal Bank, is placed on the Dutch chart W. ^ S. 19 miles from
the S. W. point of Low Island.

North Haycock Island, in about lat. 3° 17' N., long. 107° 34J' E. is high,
of conical shape, having a reef projecting 3 or 4 miles from it to the S.W.
and South, with 30 and 33 fathoms near its edge.

ElpMnstone Rock is named after the ship which discovered it in 1844, and
is thus described by her commander, Mr. Crawford : — It stands high out of
the water, about 69 feet. From the southward a reef projects about a mile,
at the extreme of which is a rock which is partially covered at high water.
From this a dangerous reef projects a long distance to leeward, and is pro-
bably a continuation of the Hutton or Diana Eeefs. To the northward of
the main rock there appears to be a safe passage. This rock is in lat. 3°
23' N., long. 107° 50J' E., and in a dark night or thick weather a ship would
be on it before it could be seen, as the soundings are no guide ; from 40 to
23 fathoms in a cast.

GREAT NATTJNA GROUP.— Great Natuna Island, called Pulo Boong-
Ouran by the Malays, extends from 3° 38^' to 4° 16 J' N., and two small
islands off the North point, joined to it by a reef, extend about 3 miles farther
with 17 fathoms water within a mile of them. The North extreme of the
idand is in long. 108° lli° E., and the East extreme in 108° 23' E., its
breadth being about 25 miles.

The interior of the island is mostly high ; and on the northern part are two
mountains of considerable elevation, Mount Bedong or Quoin Hill, in lat. 4° 3'
N., and Mount Eanay, near Cape Senubing, the East point of the island, in
lat. 4° N. ; the latter is 1,890 feet high, and may be seen 44 or 45 miles.
Some of the projecting parts of the coast are rather low, particularly from
lat. 4° N. to the North end of the island, where there are red cliffs.

Eeefs and islets front the eastern coast of this island, rendering it dan-
gerous to approach under 6 or 7 miles in some places, at which distance the
depths are usually from 34 to 46 fathoms. Mr. Whiteside, commanding the
ship Sarah, describes an extensive coral bank in patches, in passing over
which the ship received a slight shock, at which time a small island off the
Natuna bore S.W. by W., distant about 6 miles. A one-fathom patch, in
lat. 4° 4' N., long. 108° 26' E., called in the chart Mieulle Reef, agrees with
this bearing, but it is only half the distance from the island, which is called
Senoang, and lies close to Cape Senubing.

Devonport Rock is 10 miles distant from the East coast of the Great
Natuna Island, and in the neighbourhood of deep water 34 fathoms. It has
about 17 ft. water on the part where the Devonport struck. From the ship

NATUNAS- PYRAMIDAL EOCKS. 619

the following bearings were taken; Senoang Island N.W., and Kamodi
Island S.W. by W., which places it in about lat. 3° 54' N., long. 108° 30' E.

A reef is placed upon the Admiralty chart S. by E. J E., distant 3^
miles from Kamodi, the outermost of two islets lying ofiP this coast ; and
another reef is said to lie 3 or 4 miles farther in the same direction from
that islet.

The Dutch vessel Lamina Elizaheth struck on a reef lying off the S.E. coast
of Great Natuna, with Kamodi and Jantay Islets nearly in one, bearing N.
by E. f E. ; Mount Eanay N. by W. | W. ; the nearest high land on Na-
tuna W. by N. i N. ; the South point of the same W. ^ N. ; and the point
of Lagong Island about W. by S. It appears necessary to be cautious in
approaching the eastern and south-eastern coasts of Great Natuna.

The western coast of Great Natuna is also fronted by islands, the chief of
which are the Duperre group, lying near its S.W. extreme. They are high
islands ; Sedcdap, in lat. 3° 34' N., is the southernmost. Salaor, or Peaked
Island, in lat. 3° 53' N., is also high; likewise Seluan, or North-west Island,
in lat. 4° 9' N., long. 107° 50' E., which has a reef projecting a mile or more
from its South point, with depths of 30 to 20 fathoms on its S.W. side ; a reef
is marked on the chart at 2^ or 3 miles distance from the western side of
this island, and one 3 miles S.S.E. of Sededap.

A reef of coral rock, with only 2 fathoms on it, and from 20 to 30 fathoms
near it on the West and S.W. sides, lies in lat. 4° 3' N., about 5 miles
S.S.W. from Seluan Island ; about 5 miles S.W. | S. from this reef, and
10 miles N.W. by W. from Peaked Island, and about the same distance
from Seluan Island is another coral shoal in lat. 3° 59' N., having 3 fathoms,
rocks, on it, and from 20 to 30 fathoms, mud, close around. These shoals
were explored by Captain Ross, in 1814. There is also a reef named Semapi,
midway between Seluan and the North point of Great Natuna, 9 or 10 miles
off shore ; it appears to be of considerable extent.

PYRAMIDAL ROCKS, in lat. 4^3' N., long. 107" 21f' E., are in the track
of ships returning from China late in the season, when they pass between
the Anamba and Natuna Islands, proceeding towards Gaspar Strait. The
Windham and Coldstream, in 1817, passed on the East side of these rocks at
4 miles distance ; they described them as a clump, of rugged aspect, elevated
about 20 or 25 feet above the sea. The General Kyd, commanded by Mr.
Nairne, in 1818, passed 4 or 5 miles to the westward of them ; when Seluan
Island bore N. 85° E., the rocks were on a transit line with Salaor Island
bearing S. 72° E., distant 4 or 5 miles.

In 1863, H.M.S. Rifleman carried a line of soundings from Victory Island
to the position of a doubtful rock that was placed on the Admiralty chart 1 1
miles S.W. of the Pyramidal Rocks. The Rifleman passed close to the spot
without discovering any danger, and had soundings in 33 fathoms. The.

620 THE CHINA SE.\.

Pyramidal Eocks were also passed within 4 miles, but it was getting too
dark to examine them closely.*

A BouUful Rock is placed upon the chart in lat. 4° 11' N., long. 107° 34f'
E., about 15 miles N.E. by E. from the Pyramidal Rocks, and the same dis-
tance to the westward of the North point of Seluan Island. The Dutch
notice, previously alluded to, states that a rock, 25 ft. above water, was dis-
covered lying N.E. by E. \ E. of the Pyramidal Eocks. Its appearance was
eimilar to those in the neighbourhood of Pulo Semione, and it is said to be
in long. 107° 26' E.

Success Reef is about 2 miles in extent, in lat. 4° 22' N., long. 107° 55'
E., nearly midway between Semione Island and the North point of Great
Natuna. When the breakers on the reef were seen from the ship^s deck
bearing E. by S. about 2 miles, Semione bore N.W. | W. about 12 miles;
the eastern extreme of North Natuna N. by E. ; and the western extreme of
Great Natuna S. by W. I W. about 20 miles. The ship afterwards tacked
in 35 fathoms, within a mile of the breakers. The Favourite, Captain La
Place, in March, 18 31, passing close to the eastern extremities of these
dangers, marked as two patches in his chart, carried soundings of 30 to 20
fathoms, sandy bottom.

Semione or Saddle Island, in lat. 4° 31' N., long. 107° 42' E., has a reef
projecting from its South end, and another from the N.W. end, with less
than 3 fathoms water on it, and 40 fathoms close-to.

There is a rock above water about 4 miles S. by W. J W. from this island
and between thf m are depths of 28 fathoms.

THE NORTH NATUNA GROUP are of moderate height, producing cocoa-
nuts and some other fruits, and are inhabited by Malays. They comprise a
long island named Pulo Laut (Sea Island), stretching N.E. by N. and S.W.
by S. 8 miles, with Pulo StoJtong, a smaller island, near its northern extreme,
and several islets and rocks close to its southern end, upon the reef that
fronts the shore. There is also a rocky islet, in lat. 4° 39' N., about 2^ miles
S. by E. \ E. from the S.E. point of Laut ; and S. i E., 2A miles from this
islet, a rock touched on by the Louise and Marguerite, drawing 14 J ft. water,
in 1873. From it the S.W. end of Pulo Laut bore N.N.W. I W. Gloria Reef,
on which the Spanish steamer of that name was wrecked in May, 1877, lies
2 miles N.W. of the Louise and Marguerite. From this wreck, lying in 15
feet water, the West extreme of Pulo Laut bore N.N.W., and the South
extreme of Semione Island W.S.W. Between the two reefs a depth of 12

* From the Pyramidal Rocks, H.M.S Rifleman carried a line of soundings to the posi-
tion of the French Eocks, shown on former charts as three rocks ahove water lying N.NW.
\ W. of Pulo Laut. Their position was approached on a W. hy N. \ N. bearing, and at
noon the Rifleman was 2 miles North of it. She then steered South 7f miles, N.W. 9 miles,
and N.E. 6-2 miles, without discovering any signs of the rocks. The soundings about the
spot were from 35 to 40 fathoms.

SAOALS ON EASTERN SIDE OF MAIN EOUTE. 621

feet was found, so that the locality must be most carefully avoided until
examined properly. About 9 or 10 miles south-westward of the rocky islet
is Cockeran Bank, with 8 fathoms on it, from which Seraione Island bears
W. by S. \ S., distant 11 miles.

The North extreme of these islands is in lat. 4° 51' N., long. 108° 3' E.
There are 35 fathoms water about I5 mile N.N.W. from fctokong, but the
whole of the western coast of Laut is fronted by a dangerous reef, which
extends nearly 5 miles W. by S. and W.S.W. from the S.W. point of that
island, having no bottom at 40 fathoms within a mile of its West extreme ;
but both North and South of this extreme there are soundings of 32 to 36
fathoms, mostly coral bottom.

SHOALS ON EASTERN SIDE OF MAIN ROUTE.

Scawfell Shoal and Charlotte Bank are hereafter described.

Vanguard Bank is crescent-shaped, about 37 miles long, with an average
width of 6 miles. It has no danger whatever on it, the least water being 9
fathoms, the general depths varying from 20 to 60 fathoms. The horns of
the crescent are respectively in lat. T 16J' N., long. 109° 26' E., and lat. 7**
31' N., long. 109° 57' E., the convex curve being on the N.W. side, and
reaching to the parallel of 7° 36' N.

Grainger Bank, lying 33 miles north-eastward of the Vanguard, is pear-
shaped, 5i miles long, N.E. and S.W., by 2| at its widest part. It has only
6 fathoms least water on it, but no danger ; the general depths are under 20
fathoms, the bottom coral, quite visible over nearly the whole of it. The
centre is in lat. T 47|' N., long. 110' 29' E.

Prince Consort Bank (discovered by the Rifleman), lies between the Van-
guard and Prince of Wales Bank, and extends from 7° 46' N. to 7° 58' N.,
and from 109° 55' to 110° 6' E. No danger exists on it ; the general sound-
ings are from 30 to 50 fathoms, sand and coral, the least water found being
on a small coral patch of 10 fathoms.

Prince of Wales Bank, the centre of which is in lat. 8° 85' N., long. 110°
32^' E., is in shape an irregular oblong, 12 miles in extent N.E. and S.W.,
by 7^ miles wide ; near its N.W. corner is a patch having 4 fathoms on it,
but nothing less was found. It is in character just the same as the other
banks in the neighbourhood, coral, having three or four excrescences on it,
but no danger, without the 4 fathoms may be considered so ; the general
depths upon it are under 20 fathoms.

Alexandra Bank, in lat. 8° U' N., long. 110°36JE., is in shape a full
oval, 5 miles in extent North and South, by 3^ miles wide. A small patch
with only 3 fathoms water on it was found close to the eastern edge, but no
other dangers exist. The average depth on the bank is about 15 fathoms;
the bottom coral, distinctly visible.

622 THE CHINA SEA.

Rifleman Bank lies between the parallels of 7° 31' and 7° 57' N., and the
meridians of 111° 32' and 111° 45 J' E. Shoal patches were found round its
edges, one of which, of only 11 ft. water and half a mile in extent, lies on
its northern edge in lat. 7° 55' 20" N., long. 111° 42' E. ; with this exception,
4 fathoms was the least depth obtained on the bank. In the centre of the
bank, the soundings are from 20 to 40 fathoms, sand and coral ; and around
its edge, outside, a few deep casts were obtained varying from 300 to 600
fathoms.

Bomlay Castle Shoal. — The 11 ft. patch on the North edge of this bank is
the shoal seen by Mr. Cameron, commanding the Orleana, who obtained a
cast of 8 ft., and placed the danger in lat. 7° 56' N., long. 111° 38' E. The
8 ft. knoll was not found by the Rifleman's boats, but it is quite possible to
have escaped the lead, for large isolated rocks are known to exist on coral
reefs, though extremely difficult to find. Heavy breakers mark the position
of this patch, in any but the finest weather.

The Rifleman sounded over the position assigned to the Bombay Castle
Eeef, in lat. 7° 56' N., long. 111° 51' E., but no bottom could be obtained
with upwards of 10 fathoms of line ; nor could any sign of shoal water be
seen from the mast head under most favourable circumstances, when on,
and cruising around its supposed position ; it is therefore deemed probable
that the Bombay Castle must have sighted the 1 1 ft. patch on the Eifleman
Bank, as the latitude is nearly the same, though the longitude differs 9
miles.

LADD REEF {Roh Roy Reef of former charts^, the eastern extreme of
which is in lat. 8° 401' N., long. 111° 41' E., is a coral bank 3 miles long
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and a mile wide at its broadest part, which is at its
eastern end. In the centre of the reef is a lagoon with a bottom of clear
white sand, which shows up with remarkable distinctness. The surrounding
reef uncovers at half tide in many places, and at low water it is almost im-
possible for boats to cross over into the lagoon. A conspicuous beacon was
reported to exist on it in 1868.

Gillies Island, doubtless identical with Ladd Eeef, reported to be in lat. 8°
38' N., long 111° 28' E., is now removed from the charts. H.M.S. Rifleman
found 800 fathoms in its supposed position.

SPEATLY ISLANB, in lat. 8° 38' N., long. 111° 54' 30" E., bearing E.
^ S., distant 14 miles from Ladd Eeef, is evidently identical with Storm Is'
land, as no other island exists in the vicinity. It is a flat islet, about 8 ft.
high, and very small, being in extent but 2i by 1^ cables' lengths, with a
margin of bright white sand and broken coral, which, when the sun is shin-
ing on it, is conspicuous from the mast-head at a considerable distance. It
was described by Mr. Spratly, commanding the Cyrus, whaler, as " a low
sandy island, the top appearing to be covered with bushes." Commander
Ward says that not a bush or even a blade of grass is to be found upon it,

SHOALS ON EASTERN SIDE OF MAIN ROUTE. 628

and the appearance described by Mr. Spratly was no doubt the effect of the
mirage, which exaggerates the size and distorts the appearance of the drift-
wood on the beach and the sea birds which throng it. At a distance of 3 or
4 miles, the birds standing erect look very like small bushes.

The islet is on the West side of a coral bank, which is 1| mile long N.E.
and S.W., and three-quarters of a mile wide. Northward of the islet the
bank is shallow, there being only 3^ fathoms close to the edge of the deep
water, three-quarters of a mile distant from the islet, decreasing towards the
shore. North-eastward of the islet there are 7 or 8 fathoms on the bank,
which extends not quite half a mile from it. Rocky ledges, dry a,t luw water,
surround the islet, rendering it necessary to be cautious when landing iu
boats, which during the S.W. monsoon may be eflfected on the lee side. The
bank is steep-to, the sea breaking heavily upon it in the S.W. monsoon,
except in very fine weather.

A square beacon was erected by Commander Ward on this islet. It is
formed of four uprights of rough driftwood spars, 27 feet high and 15 feet
apart. The uprights are shored up, and the centre space solidly filled in and
built up to the height of 15 feet with drift-wood, rubble, &c. The top is at
present covered in with canvas — to be replaced by plank if circumstances
permit — with black and white sides, and may be seen in clear weather at a
distance of 8 miles.

The Rifleman anchored in about 6 fathoms on the N.E. point of the bank,
but it is so steep-to, that, riding with the wind W.S.W., and 50 fathoms of
chain out, the vessel's stern was in 54 fathoms ; this position was, however,
fairly sheltered from the S.W. ; the extremes of the islet bore S.W., ^ S. ;
and S.W. by W. |- W., and the extreme of the breakers on the western
edge W. I S.

In the months of June and July the island swarmed with turtle of a very
fine description, and they may possibly frequent it at other seasons. Large
numbers were taken, being easily turned over by two or three men on the
beach, in the evening or night, and occasionally in the daytime ; they are
apparently identical with the green turtle of Ascension. Immense quantities
of their eggs were found on the S.W. side of the islet. Fish were nume-
rous, but very few captures effected. Sea birds' eggs literally covered the
ground. About seventy sprouts of cocoa-nut trees were planted, and at the
end of a fortnight exhibited every promise of a vigorous growth.

Tides. — Observations at Spratly Island in the S.W. monsoon showed but
one tide during the 24 hours, and in the early part of July it was found to
be high water at Q*" a.m., the rise and fall being 5^ feet. No observations
up to the present time have been obtained during the N.E. monsoon, which
probably creates a great change. The direction of the stream at the N.E.
corner of the bank was S.W. during the rising tide, and S.E. to E.N.E,
during the falhng tide.

624 THE CHINA SEA.

The Ruby Shoal, a email spot formerly shown upon the Admiralty chart in
lat. 8° 35' N., long. 112° 4' E., was searched for in 1864 and in 1865 by the
JRifleman without success ; it is now expunged from the chart.

LONDON REEFS.— TFesiJ London Reef, bearing E. by N. f N. distant 31
miles from Ladd Eeef, is the westernmost of a group of shoals, the London
Beefs of the charts. It is a bank 4^ miles long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W.,
S^ miles wide, and almost surrounded by coral reefs, some of which dry at
low water. There is a space in the centre of the bank with from 6 to 10
fathoms water in it, but slso many shoal spots. The only approach to this
central space is from the S.E. side, but so many coral patches crop up that
the navigation is extremely hazardous. On the East side of the bank, in lat.
8° 52' N., long. 112° 14|' E., is a sandy cay, a quarter of a mile in extent
N.E. and S.W., but only 26 yards wide, and 2 feet above high water. The
Rifleman anchored at the middle of the North side of the bank in lat. 8° 53'
N., long. 112° 12|-'E.

Central London Reef, the centre of which is in lat. 8° 55i' N., long. 112°
20' E., was discovered by the Rifleman whilst sounding between the East and
West London Eeefs. It is a coral patch, awash, half a mile in extent, with
a shallow lagoon inside the belt of coral. On the S.W. extreme of the reef
is a sandy cay, 60 or 70 yards in circumference, which is probably covered
at high-water springs.

This is in every respect a most dangerous reef, and lies directly in the
track of vessels working up or down the China Sea. Being small, it is not
marked by great masses of breakers, like those which so readily point out
the positions of East and West London Reefs, for one of which it has pro-
bably been mistaken, when sighted, as it has doubtless been.

Caution. — Like all other dangers in the China Sea visited by the Rifleman,
the Central London Reef is surrounded by deep water, thus rendering the
lead useless ; it is therefore essentially necessary to observe the greatest pre-
caution when in their vicinity, and never to stand towards them with the sun
shining ahead, as under these circumstances it becomes almost impossible to
distinguish shoal water or breakers.

East London Reef is 7 miles long, East and West, from 1 to 2 miles broad,
and its East end is in lat. 8° 49' 38" N., long. 112° 37' 26" E. The coral
rtmnd its edges encloses a lagoon, having 4 to 8 fathoms water. No entrance
into the lagoon could be discovered, but there were apparently numerous
shoal patches inside. The sea breaks heavily on the reef, and on its western
extreme are one or two rocks which seldom cover. No soundings could be
obtained with 100 fathoms of line at one mile from where the coral dries,
nor with 500 fathoms at 2 miles North of it.

Cuarteron Reef, named after the Spaniard who discovered it, is awash,
and in shape like a crescent, whose chord is 3 miles in length, E. by S. and

DISCOVERY EEEFS. 625

W. by N., with the curve to the southward. Its eastern extreme is in lat.
8° 60' 54" N., long. 112° 49' 34" E.

This reef was found steeper-to than any yet visited, for although deep
water is found close to all of them, there was generally some slope from the
rocks awash, on which the Rifleman could anchor with safet)' for a short
period, to enable the position to be fixed ; here, however, although she an-
chored in 5 fathoms, with the jib-boom over the rocks awash, the reef was
so steep as to cause the anchor to roll down the incline, and run the cable
out to the clinch. Captain Ward is of opinion that no vessel should ever
venture to sight this reef.

The Fiery Cross or Investigator N.W. Reef, which was marked as two
distinct dangers on former charts, was found by Lieutenant J. W. Reed in
H.M.S. Rifleman in 1867, to be but one extensive coral reef, having several
dry patches on it, upon most of which the sea breaks even in light winds, or
■with a light swell. It is 14 miles in length N.E. by E. and S W. by W.,
and 4 miles in breadth. Its S.W. end is in lat. 9° 32' N., long. 112° 53' E.,
and its N.E. end in lat. 9° 41' N., long, 113° 4' E. The largest dry patch is
at its S.W. end, and here were found the wrecks of two vessels, supposed to
have been those of the Fiery Cross and Meerschaum, both of which are known
to have been lost upon this reef.

DhauUe Shoal, reported in the year 1826, by the vessel of that name,
which anchored on it in 3 fathoms, is now erased from the charts. Its re-
ported position was 25 miles westward of the South end of Fiery Cross
Reef, in lat. 9° 32' N., long. 112° 24' E. Here, and in the locality in favour-
able weather, H.M.S. Rifleman was employed a whole day in searching for
this reef, but with no success, a depth of 1,060 fathoms being found on the
spot. The Lhaulle doubtless anchored on the end of Fiery Cross Reef.

DISCOVERY GREAT REEF, the South end of which is in lat. 10° 0' 42"
N., long. 113° 51 J' E., is a long, narrow coral shoal, the greater part of which
dries at low tides, with several large rocks upon it which always show above
■water ; in the centre is a lagoon, which appeared to be shallow, and to have
no passage through the reef leading into it. From the South point the reef
trends first North, 5 miles, then N. by E., 5 miles, and it is a mile broad at
the South end and half a mile at the North. No bottom was found with 100
fathoms line within a very short distance of any part of the reef except off
its North end, where the Rifleman anchored in 42 fathoms, nearly half a mile
from the rocks; a third of a mile off its S.W. point a sounding of 192
fathoms, sand and coral, was obtained.

The reef reported 10 miles north-eastward of Discovery Great Reef was
found to have no existence by H.M.S. Rifleman.

Discovery Small Reef, in lat. 10° 1^' N., lung. 114° 1^' E., is a small

I. A. 4 L

626 THE CHINA SEA.

round coral patch, a third of a mile in diameter, dry in places at low tides,
■with very deep water all round. Soundings of 174 and 180 fathoms, sand
and coral, were obtained very close to its eastern side, and no bottom at 210
fathoms the same distance off the opposite side.

Western or Floral Temple Reef, the centre of which is in lat. 10° 15' N.,
lono-. 113° 37' E., is the westernmost reef in this part of the China Sea, and
very dangerous, having patches of rock just under water at the S.W. part,
and but 1 to 3 fathoms in other places. It is li mile long N.E. and S.W.,
and rather more than half a mile broad at the southern part, decreasing to
half that breadth at the opposite end. The Rifleman, for the purposes of the
survey, anchored in 5 fathoms on its north-eastern extreme, which had to be
approached with great caution, as shoal water was seen at a very short dis-
tance inside the edge ; soundings of 18 to 74 fathoms were obtained close to,
but at a short distance off no bottom at 100 fathoms.

The reef upon which the Flora Temple was wrecked in 1859 was said to lie
6 miles north-westward of the western reef, but the Rifleman passed over
that position, and certainly no danger exists there ; moreover, the descrip-
tion of the reef given at the time of the wreck applies exactly to the Western
reef, where, without doubt, the ship was lost.

TIZARD BANK and REEFS.— From Discovery Small Eeef, the nearest
part of this bank, bears N.E. by E., and is distant 16 miles. It is very ex-
tensive and, like the generality of the large coral banks in the China Sea,
consists of a lagoon, bordered by shoal patches. Several of the patches
up on the Tizard Bank are dangerous reefs, dry at low water, two with
islands on them, and a third a sand cay. The bank lies in an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. direction, and extends nearly 31 miles; its breadth in the middle
being 11 miles, at the S.W. part 7 miles, and at the opposite end 3 1 miles.

Itu Abaer, the larger of the two islands, is situated at the N.W. corner of
the bank, and is three-quarters of a mile long E. by N. and W. by S., and
a quarter of a mile broad. The reef surrounding it extends in some places
to the distance of a short half mile, and in others riot so far ; its limits, how-
ever, are generally defined by a line of breakers. The island is covered by
small trees and high bushes, together with numerous nests of sea birds.
Two or three cocoa-nut and a few plantain trees stand near a small well, but
the most conspicuous object is a single black clump-like tree on the North
side of the island, which may be distinctly seen 10 miles off; this is in 10°
22'25"N., and 114° 21' 45" E.

A little more than 6 miles East from Itu Aba is a small sand cay, nearly
in the centre of a round-shaped reef, three-quarters of a mile in diameter.
The island and cay are connected by a line of shoal patches, which form
the N.E. part of the bank ; and nearly midway between, but nearer the
island, is a dangerous reef, entirely covered at half-tide, about the sanae size
as that surrounding the cay. Elsewhere on the northern edge of the bank

TIZAED BANK AND EEEFS. 627

there is not less than 4 fathoms, and vessels may safely anchor in from 7 to
1 1 fathoms about 1 J mile westward of the sand cay, midway between it and
the reef last described.

Petley Reef, an oval-shaped patch a little over a mile in extent, lies E. by
N. I N. oj miles from Sand Cay; it forms the extremity of a remarkable
strip of coral, \\ mile wide, projecting like a horn in a N.N.E. direction
from the main body of the bank, the edge of which trends E.8.E. from the
cay ; not less than 6 fathoms was found upon the strip, except within a mile
of the southern part of the reef above mentioned, where it shoals to 4 and 3
fathoms, and no bottom could be obtained with 100 fathoms at a short dis-
tance on either side of it.

mdad Reef, the N.E. end of which is in lat. 10° 23' N., long. 114° 42' E.,
forms the eastern extreme of Tizard Bank. It is a peculiarly shaped reef, 4^
miles long, N.N.E. I E. and S.S.W. J W., the southern and middle parts
being about H mile wide, but of irregular outline ; and the northern part
tapering away in the form of a long, narrow tongue, on either side of which
no bottom could be obtained with 100 fathoms of line. A few large rocks
are visible at high water, and at low water many smaller ones uncover.
Shoal patches extend nearly three-quarters of a mile to the westward of the
reef.

Namy it Island \\QS Awe South from Itu Abaer, distant 11 J miles; it is very
small, being only 3 cables long East and West, and 1 cable broad, and is
surrounded by a reef which projects more than a mile to the westward, and
about a third of a mile in other directions.

Gaven Reefs are two dangerous reefs, covered at high water, which lie to
the westward of Namyit ; the first is oval-shaped, three-quarters of a mile
long N.N.W. and S.8.E., the island bearing from it E. JN., distant 6 miles ;
the second is a mile long North and South, and nearly three-quarters of a
mile broad at its northern end, narrowing to a point at the opposite end ;
this last is the westernmost danger of the Tizard group, and its outer edge
is in 10° 18' 20" N., and 114° 13' 7" E.

Anchorage. — The above comprise all the dangers found upon this great
bank, and, with the exception of a small 3-fathom patch which lies N.E.
nearly a mile from Namyit Island, nothing less than 4 fathoms was found
upon any of the shoal patches surrounding the lagoon ; so that vessels of
moderate draught can, in cases of necessity and in fine weather, find conve-
nient anchorage, observing always due care and caution in approaching
them, so as to guard against possible danger from some shoal spot having
escaped detection by the lead.

Hainan fishermen, who subsist by collecting trepang and tortoise-shell,
were found upon most of these islands, some of whom remain for years
amongst the reefs. Junks from Hainan annually visit the islands and reefs
of the China Sea with supplies of rice and other necessaries, for which the

62S THE CHINA SEA.

fishermen give trepang and other articles in exchange, and remit their pro-
fits home. The junks leave Hainan in December or January, and return
with the first of the S.W. monsoon. The fishermen upon Itu Abaer Island
were more comfortably established than the others, and the water found ia
the well on that island was better than elsewhere.

LOAI-TA BANK and REEFS extend 21 miles N.E. and S.W. ; its
Bouthern part is 5J miles wide, and its centre 7 miles ; from thence it gra-
dually narrows to a point at its N.E. extreme.

Loai-ta Island (South island of Horsburgh) lies N. j E., distant 18 miles,
from Itu Abaer, its N.W. extreme being in lat. 10° 40' 45' N., long. 11 4° 24'
54" E. It is a low sand island, covered with bushes, and small, being only
1^ cable in diameter ; a reef surrounds it, extending, in some places, nearly
half a mile.

A reef, about 1| mile in extent, dry at low water, and having a small
sand cay near the centre, lies 5 miles north-westward of Loai-ta. Another
and larger reef lies three-quarters of a mile to the south-westward of the
one just mentioned, extending in that direction 1| mile, its width being
about a mile. The S.W. extreme of this last reef, which is also the S.W.
extreme of Loai-ta bank, is in 10° 42' N., and 114° 19' E. ; the sand cay
bearing N.E. distant nearly 3 miles, and Laoi-ta Island E. by S. 6 miles.

From the sand cay above mentioned the north-western edge of the bank
trends away E.N.E. 5 miles, and then N.E. 13 miles ; no less than 4 fathoms
was found anywhere upon this part of the bank.

Lan-Kesam Cay, a coral patch, half a mile in extent, which partly dries at
low water, lies E. by N. 2 miles from Loai-ta Island ; and E.N.E. 6J miles
from the same island is a larger reef, three-quarters of a mile in diameter,
having a sand cay near its centre ; this cay, known to the Hainan fishermen
as Lan-Keeam, is in 10° 43' 20" N., 114° 31' E.

N.E. by E. A E. 3 miles from Lan-keeam is a small dry patch, which
forms the S.E. angle of the great Loai-ta Bank, and N.E. \ N. 4^ miles
from that cay is another small reef ; this last is the northernmost patch
which dries.

From the reef just mentioned the south-eastern edge of the bank trends
to the N. by E. about 9 miles, when it meets the north-western edge j
nothing less than 4 fathoms was obtained on this part of the bank.

SOTJBIE REEF, the S.W. end of which is in lat. 10° 53^' N., long.
114° 4' E., is the westernmost danger in this locality. It is an irregular-
shaped coral reef, nearly 3^ miles long, N.E. and S.W., and 2 miles broad,
is dry at low water, and has a lagoon, into which there appears to be no
passage.

THI-TTT REEFS and ISLAND, or the JSf. W. Dangers, consist of several
very dangerous patches grouped upon two coral banks, separated by a nar-
row deep gut. Thi-tu is a low sand island, somewhat round ,in shape, aad

TRIDENT SHOAL. 629

not quite half a mile in diameter. Near its S.W. end is a dark clump tree in
lat. 11° 3' 9" N., long. 114° 16' 25" E. ; in addition to this clump tree the
island has upon it some low bushes and two stunted cocoa-nut trees, near to
which is a small well and a few plantain trees.

From the island the western bank widens out in directions N.W. and.
S.W. for a distance each way of 2| miles ; the North side of this part of the
bank is marked by a round coral reef, three-quarters of a mile in diameter
between which and the reef surrounding the island are soundings of 2J to 7
fathoms, the deep water being nearer the island. The South edge of the
bank is also marked by a reef, but this is much smaller than the one just
described, and the depths between it and the island are more favourable for
anchoring upon than the opposite side of the bank, being in no place less
than 4J fathoms. From these two reefs the bank gradually narrows and
terminates in a point in lat. 11° 2' 30" N., long. 114° 10' 30" E., the island
bearing E. f N., distant 6 miles.

On the North edge of the bank is a sand cay, which bears from the island
W. I N., nearly 3J miles. This is also on a large patch of reef, dry at low
water, and between it and the western extreme of the bank are dan^-erous
reefs, nearly always marked by breakers. There is a passage into the
lagoon between the sand cay reef and the one 2 J miles N.W. of the island
with depths of 5 to 12 fathoms.

The South side of the bank is not nearly so dangerous as the North side
and vessels may anchor upon it with the sand cay bearing between N.E. by
N. and N.W. by N., or to the eastward of the patch which lies S.W. 2 J
miles from the island, with the cay bearing N.W. by W. | W., and the island
N.E. i E. In the lagoon the depths are 17 to 19 fathoms.

The eastern bank is a mass of dangerous reefs and patches ; its western
extreme is more than a mile eastward of Thi-tu Island, extendin^^ from
thence 1| mile East and 3^ miles N.E., with an average breadth of 2 miles^

TRIDENT SHOAL, lying E. by N. 16 miles from North Danger, is a
coral bank 7| miles long and 6 broad, of the shape of a shoulder of mutton
the broad part being to the northward ; it is composed of many patches
with less than 10 fathoms water over them, two of which are dan^^-erous.
These patches lie round the edges of the bank, forming a lagoon, the depths
in which are 26 to 37 fathoms ; close outside of them, there is no bottom at
100 fathoms.

The most dangerous patch is at the northern extreme of the shoal. This
patch extends 1 J mile East and West, and half a mile North and South and
near its centre, in lat. 11° 31' 30" N., long. 114° 39' 15" E., is a small spot
which dries at low water springs ; the depths on other parts of the patch
vary from 1 J to 6 fathoms. The other patch is at the eastern extreme of the
shoal, and is distant 3i miles S.E. ^ S. from that just described • it is a
small spot of 2^ fathoms, with depths of 3 to 5 fathoms at half a mile around

630 THE CHINA SEA.

it. Some casts of 4 fathoms were had about a mile W. by S. from the dry
spot, but not less than 5 fathoms on any of the other patches.*

LYS SHOAL lies 2 miles southward of Trident Shoal, and like the latter
is formed of a number of patches under 10 fathoms, with a lagoon in the
centre ; only one danger, a small spot of 17 ft., was found, and this lies near
the S.W. extreme of the bank, in lat. 11° 19' 40" N., long. 114^ 34' 24" E. ;
around it the depths are 5 fathoms. Some 5-fathom patches were also
discovered near the N.E. end of the bank, but nothing under 6 fathoms was
met with elsewhere, the general depths on the patches being 7 to 10 fa-
thoms, and a short distance outside of them bottom was not reached with 100
fathoms of line.

North Danger Reef, of coral formation, is about 8|- miles long, N.E. and
S.W., and 4| miles broad. On its N.W. side are two sandy cays, the north-
eastern of which is half a mile long, one-quarter of a mile broad, and 10 ft.
above the level of the sea at high water ; the south-western cay is only 4
cables long, and IJ cable broad, but its elevation is 15 ft. above the same
level. Between the cay is a passage 1 mile wide, with from 4 to 9 fathoms
water, leading into the lagoon of the reef, where the depth is from 20 to 25
fathoms.

Shoal water exists all round the edge of North Danger Eeef, and there
are heavy breakers over the coral, awash at its N.E. and S.W. extremes.
No soundings could be obtained close to the edge of the reef with upwards
of 100 fathoms of line, but one cast of 380 fathoms was procured 1^ mile to
the N.E. of the breakers on its N.E. extreme. On the eastern side of the
reef no bottom could be obtained with 450 fathoms of lino.

Both cays are covered with coarse grass, and on the north-eastern of the
two is a stunted tree in lat. 11° 28' N., long. 114° 20|' E. The cays are fre-
quented by Chinese fishermen from Hainan, who collect biche-de-mer, turtle-
shell, &c., and supply themselves with water from a well in the centre of the
north-eastern cay.

Caution. — Vessels should not attempt to pass through the reefs in this
part of the China Sea, as a line of dangerous shoals, extending many miles,
is known to exist eastward of the dangers just described.

Currents and Tides. — Whilst the Rifleman was at anchor on the reefs,
careful observations were taken of the set of the current, which, for 16 hours

* Mr. Lyall, commander of the Trident, who discovered the Trident Shoal, placed it 6
miles to the northward of this position. The Rifleman was employed five days searching
that locality without discovering any danger, and it is certain none exists there.

The Bremen vessel G. E. Lorenz Meyer was reported by her commander, Mr. Moller, to
have struck at night upon a shoal in lat. 11° 25' N., long. 114° 51' E. ; this position was
also examined by the Rifeman, but no danger discovered, and there is but little doubt that
the vessel struck on the eastern patch of the Trident.

SCAWFELL AND BANDA SHOALS. 631

out of the 24, invariably set to windward, generally with the greatest force
■when the monsoon was strongest.

The rise of tide at springs was about 6 ft., and at neaps 1 to 2 ft. ; one
tidal stream in 24 hours.

ISLANDS AND DANGERS IN THE FAIRWAY OF THE MAIN

ROUTE.

CHARLOTTE BANK.— H.M. surveying vessel Rifleman anchored in 8 fa-
thoms upon the Charlotte Bank, in lat. 7" 7|' N., long. 107° 37^' E. From this
position the bank extended North three-quarters of a mile, South 1^ mile,
East three-quarters of a mile, and West 3 miles ; the least water found was
5 fathoms. Tiie bank will be avoided by keeping under 30 fathoms water
when passing its parallel.

SCAWFELL SHOAL.— Mr. Thompson, commanding the ship Scawfell, re-
ports as follows : — "On the 13th of May, 1865, on my passage up the China
Sea, just before noon I observed an unusual quantity of fish around the
ship, and while taking noon observations, rocks were reported under the
bottom. I immediately got a cast of the lead, and had 9 fathoms, the lead
trembling off the coral gave half a fathom more. The water was very smooth
at the time, the vessel having just steerage way, with a very light air from
the N.E. Other casts of the lead gave 1^ fathoms until about the middle of
the shoal, when the lead got fast between the coral rocks and was lost ; this
part appeared as shoal as any that was visible round the ship. Got another
lead ready as soon as possible, when we had 17 fathoms, then losing
sight of the bottom, the ship drifting to the N.N.W,, with a light northerly
current about one knot an hour. On sounding an hour later, the ship
going in the same direction at the same rate, had 22 fathoms ; one hour
afterwards 20 fathoms, this last being 5 or 6 miles north-westward of the
shoal.

"The noon observations taken on the shoal gave lat. 7° 19' N., and by
mean of forenoon and afternoon sights for chronometer, made the longitude
of the shoal to be 106° 51' E.. Made Pulo Condore next day, and by that
island, together with observations taken in Sunda and Gaspar Straits, the
chronometers appeared to be quite correct."

It will be seen that the position of this shoal is about as far to the
westward of the usual track of shipping proceeding up or down the China
Sea before a fair monsoon as the Charlotte Bank is the eastward of it.
Lying 80 near the fairway, it appears extraordinary that it has not been
before observed.

BANDA SHOAL, discovered in 1871, has a depth of 3 fathoms over it,
and lies S.E. 48 miles from Pulo Condore, in lat. 8° N., long. 107° E. It is
marken on the charts as a small isolated patch.

632 THE CHINA SEA.

PTJLO CONDORE has been before noticed on page 429. It is 50 miles off
the coast of Cambodia, and is to the westward of the main track through
the China Sea, but immediately in the way of those going between Singa-
pore and Saigon. It is occupied by the French, who use it as a penal
settlement. The approaches to the island are safe. The village in the
Great Bay on the S.E. side is in lat. 8° 40' 57" N., long. 106° 36' 11" E.

The Great Bay is formed by the projection from the main body of the
island of two high points of land, which are about 5 miles apart. Off the
southern point a chain of four islets extends nearly 1| mile to the eastward,
and the bay is fronted in that direction by an island, named Haon Bai Kan,
having an islet off its South side, named Haon Lap.

There are three passages into this bay ; that between the southern point
and the islets to the eastward of it, although but a quarter of a mile wide,
is quite safe, with depths of 20 and 16 fathoms, decreasing to 9 and 7 inside.
The passage between the islets and Hoan Bai Kan is about 2J miles wide,
but is nearly filled up by a bank with depths generally of 3^ to 4^ fathoms,
hut having one patch of only 2i fathoms, and two patches of 3 fathoms
upon it. The 2|-fathom patch lies about two-thirds of a mile N.E. f E.
from the easternmost of the islets. One of the 3-fathom patches lies nearly
a mile N.E. by E. from the same islet, and the other is about half a mile
S. by W. i W. from the western part of Haon Bai Kan. The passage
between the northern point of the bay and Haon Bai Kan is the best for
large vessels, being two-thirds of a mile wide, with depths of 10 to 19
fathoms.

The northern sides of the islets off the southern point of the bay are
fringed with coral, as is the western side of Hoan Bai Kan ; but Hoan Lap
islet appears to be bold close-to, the chart, however, has no soundings near
its astern side. The bay, inside a line connecting its northern and southern
points — which bear from each other N.E. f N. and S.W. f S. — is encum-
bered with an extensive shore flat, as also many detached shoal patches
having less than 6 ft. water over them. On account of these dangers vessels
should not go inside the line connecting the points, excepting at the S.W.
part of the bay, where they may stand in until the North point of Haon
Bai Kan bears N.E. by E. J E., there being nothing outside that line more
dangerous than a patch of 3 J fathoms, with 4|- and 5 fathoms near it, which
lies nearly half a mile N. by E. J E. from the southern point of the bay ;
and a small patch of 3f fathoms, with 6 and 7 fathoms around it, which lies
N.N.E. i E., distant IJ mile from the same point.

The anchorage in Great Bay is only available during the S.W. monsoon.
In order to avoid the sea, vessels should anchor in its S.W. part, where,
however, the squalls are heavier, but the holding ground is good, the bottom
being gray mud. There appears to be good, safe anchorage, with depths of
5^ and 6 fathoms, inside the 3^ and 3f fathoms patches, with the South point

PULO CONDOEE. 633

bearing from S. by W. to South, and Haon Lap Islet from E. i N. to E. ^ S.
A good berth for a large ship appears to be in 7 or 8 fathoms, with Haon
Tai-leung, the largest islet off the South point of the bay, bearing about
South, and Haon Lap East or E. I- N,

North-East Bay is to the northward of the North point of Great Bay, and
would appear to offer convenient shelter in the S.W. monsoon for vessels
not wishing to enter Great Bay. It appears to be quite free from danger,
but the depths decrease rather quickly from 6 to 5 fathoms. Vessels should
therefore anchor in 7 fathoms, or directly the water shoals under that depth.

Haon Cao is the name of a bold island, nearly a mile in extent, lying 2
miles N.E. by E. from Haon Bai Kan. In the channel between them are
depths generally from 12 to 15 fathoms, but near Haon Cao the soundings
appear to be more irregular, 17 to 29 fathoms.

A barren white rock lies N.E. by E. ^ E. 3i miles from the N.E. point of
the largest island of the Pulo Condore group; around it are 17 to 22
fathoms.

South-West Bay, or Pulo Condore Harbour, called by the Cochin-Chinese
Queou Dam Leun, is formed between the S.W. end of the large island and
an adjoining high, island called Little Condore, or Bae Vioung, the East
point of which is separated from the S.W. point of the large island by a
narrow gullet, but to the north-westward they are separated about three-
quarters of a mile, forming the entrance to the harbour. Here the depths
are 9 and 7 fathoms, gravel and mud, decreasing to 5 and 3 fathoms near
the flat that occupies the head of the harbour, and which is dry at low
water. This bay is well sheltered by the surrounding hills, except from the
north-westward, but the wind is seldom strong from that quarter ; it affords
shelter to seven or eight vessels. The heavy squalls require precaution, but
holding ground is good.

Some islets lie off the North point of this bay, to the northward of which
is a high island named Haon Trap, having some rocks above and below
water extending from its N.W. side.

Haon Tae, another high island, lies about a mile to the north-westward
of Haon Trap ; off its north-eastern extreme is an islet. Haon Tae Niao is
another island lying a little more than 2 miles to the north-eastward of Haon
Tae, having a reef and some rocks extending a little over a cable's length
from its North and East sides. There is a safe passage inside the two last-
mentioned islands, with depths of 16 to 22 fathoms.

Supplies. — At the time oi ih.Q Rifleman'' s visit, in 1862, the inhabitants were
living in a state of great poverty in miserable huts, and subsisting upon
yams, pumpkins, fruit, and fish. Horsburgh remarks: — "These islands
abound with timber, but there are no articles of trade to be procured ; the
soil being generally dry and unfruitful, the country unhealthy, and abound-
I. A. 4 m

634 THE CHINA SEA.

ing "with reptiles, there is no inducement for strangers to visit this place ;
consequently few ships touch here."

In the Mer de Chine, 1st part, page 197, published in 1865, it is stated
that "the character of the inhabitants is very mild. The country, without
being rich, yields plenty of fruit, timber for building, and vegetables. The
natives rear a large quantity of pigs and poultry."

Water may be procured in the N.E. part of South-West Bay, a short dis-
tance to the southward of the landing-place.

Tides. — At the Pulo Condore group it is high water, full and change, at
2*' SO"", and springs rise 6^ feet.

Soundings. — The soundings 13 or 14 miles outside the Brothers are 17 or
18 fathoms ; 13 and 12 fathoms within 2 miles of them on the East and N.E.
sides, deepening to 17, 18, and 20 fathoms close to Pulo Condore. When
Pulo Condore bears North, or N. by E., distant about 30 miles, the sound-
ings are 19 and 18 fathoms; when N.W. about 25 miles, 18 and 17 fa-
thoms ; West 45 or 50 miles, 24 fathoms ; West 60 miles, 27 fathoms.
Eounding Pulo Condore on the South and S.E. sides within 2 to 3 miles
distance, the depths will be 17 or 18 fathoms.

From 18 fathoms, near the White Eock off the N.E. end of the Pulo Con-
dore group, the soundings continue between 18 and 17 fathoms for a few
miles in a direct line to Cape St. James, when they gradually decrease to
15, 14, and 13, with an occasional cast of 17 fathoms, as that headland is
approached.

From Pulo Condore, steering direct for the Great Catwick, the depths in-
crease very slowly until within 40 or 45 miles of the latter, then rather
quicker from 30 or 34 to 45 and 50 fathoms near the Catwick.

The following accounts of the reefs and dangers to the north-eastward are
chiefly derived from the result of a survey made by navigating-lieutenant
J. W. Peed, commanding H.M. surveying vessel Rifleman, between the 3rd
April, and 21st May, 1863.

ROYAL BISHOP BANK.— From near the Great Catwick, the Rifleman
carried a line of soundings for this bank until she came to a coral patch, 3J
miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and about l^ mile broad, having 10 fa-
thoms least water upon it, in lat. 9° 40' N., long. 108° 14' E. There are 28
to 30 fathoms all round it.

Circumstances did not permit of a farther search for the 7 and 8 fathoms
patches said to be found on the Eoyal Bishop, and which will probably be
discovered to the northward of the bank examined.

Corsair Rock is now removed from the charts. Its existence has been fre-
quently denied, and the Rifleman passed so close to its reported position,
lat. 9° 54' N., long. 108° 35' E., that she must have seen it if it had been
there.

RAGLAN BANK.— The ship Lady Raglan, in September, 1858, is said to

PULO SAPATU— JULIA SHOAL. 635

have passed over a rocky shoal lying about S.E. | S. 39 miles from Pulo
Sapatu, in lat. 9= 28' N., and long. 109° 25' E. ; no soundings were tried for,
but the rocks were plainly visible under the vessel's bottom ; shoal -water
was seen a short distance off; the direction, however, is not stated. This is
another doubtful danger which could not be found by the Rifleman, there
being upon the spot no bottom with 300 fathoms. The Lightning steamer
also passed over this position recently without observing any appearance of
danger, although circumstances were very favourable for doing so.

In 1875, the French government gave notice that the vessel Jachnel had
passed near a shoal supposed to be the same as that seen by the British ship
Lady Raglan in 1858. The «/acA-mc? passed close to the shoal, on which the
sea was breaking heavily, and the position assigned to it by that vessel is
lat. 9° 24' N., long. 109° 26' E. The position of this danger must be con-
sidered as approximate, and caution is necessary when navigating near it.
It will be observed that the position assigned to the danger by the Jachnel is
r to the eastward and 4' to the southward of the spot searched by the
Rifleman.

PTJLO SAPATU (or Sapata\ or Shoe Island.— Its summit, 347 ft. high, is
in lat. 9= 58' 23' N., long. 109° 5' 57" E. It is the easternmost of three
islands that go by the name of Catwicks. It is a high, barren rock, fre-
quented by numerous birds, one-third of a mile long North and South, about
half as broad, and visible in clear weather at 22 or 23 miles. Under very
favourable circumstances it is possible to effect a landing upon the rocks at
its base ; but otherwise it is impossible. When viewed in some directions, it
resembles a shoe ; at others it seems a large square column ; and when bear-
ing to the westward it assumes the form of a pyramid. Ships generally
endeavour to sight this island, or to pass within 20 or 25 miles of its eastern
side, in proceeding up or down the main route of the China Sea. With
the exception of a rock awash lying a quarter of a cable's length eastward
of its South end, the island is bold close to; 16 and 17 fathoms were
obtained about 2 cables' lengths eastward of it, and half a mile off in that
direction 25 to 30 fathoms. On the West side the soundings are a few
fathoms deeper.

JULIA SHOAL is a small coral patch about a quarter of a mile in extent,
with only 2i fathoms on it at low tides, lying S.E. by E. distant 3i miles
from Pulo Sapatu.

The Little Catwick in line with the northern extreme of Sapatu, N.W. by
W. f W., leads nearly half a mile north-eastward of the Julia ; the Little
Catwick exactly in line with the southern extreme of Sapatu, leads over 10 '
fathoms water on the S.W. edge of the shoal ; and the Little Catwick well
open of the southern extreme, N.W. | W., leads half a mile south-westward
of it.

When the Little Catwick is just lost behind the southern extreme of Sa-

6f36 THE CHINA SEA.

pat'j, and the angle of elevation of that island is 1° 22', or more (the height
of the eye being 15 feet), ships will be one mile or more inside the Julia.
When the angle of elevation is 0° 45', or less (the height of the eye being 15
feet), they will be one mile or more outside the shoal.

It is strange that no mention of this important danger is made in Hors-
burgh. In 1836 Mr. Thomas, commanding the ship Good Success, observing
a rippling, sent a boat to examine it, and found a sharp pinnacle rock, to
which the boat was held by a boat hook. In 1847 it was examined in the
ship Julia, but no less water than 3 fathoms could be found, which is no
doubt the usual depth upon the shoal, although it is not safe to depend upon
finding more than 2J fathoms. It is possible that the Christopher Rawson
knocked off the pinnacle mentioned by Mr. Thomas. She struck with great
force, dragging the stern post out of her.

From the examination made in the Jxilia the danger obtained a position on
the charts, which position was very nearly the same as that ascribed to it by
Mr. Thomas. Lieut. Eeed agrees with both in bearing, but makes the dis-
tance from Pulo Sapatu (which with them must have been a matter of judg-
ment only) a mile less than they.

This shoal has been the cause of more anxiety, perhaps than any other in
the China Sea. In all probability many of the reported positions of dangers
in that locality (for instance the Hopkins Bank), have proceeded from this
shoal having been seen, and its position wrongly estimated. In the note
below '^ are given Lieutenant Reed's reasons for believing that the Christopher

* The Rifleman searched carefully for the dangers supposed to exist to the eastward of
Pulo Sapatu, but without success. The Eawson Shoal was marked on the charts as a
doubtful danger about 20 miles E.S.E. of Pulo Sapatu. It was hereabouts the Christopher
Rawson was supposed to have struck. But bearing in mind that the accident occurred in
the middle of the night, when the ship was running under double-reefed topsails before a
strong X.E. monsoon, and that she went down a few minutes after striking, the crew having
barely time to save their lives by taking to the boats, it was manifestly impossible under
such circumstances to calculate the position of the shoal with any degree of certainty ; it
must have been a matter of mere conjecture.

It happened that the gunner's mate of the Rifleman belonged to the Christopher Rawson
when she was lost. Overhearing him speak of the wreck in the passage out from England,
Lieutenant Eeed questioned him as to the circumstances. He asserted that they had seen
no land before the vessel struck, but shortly after they had taken to the boats (which were
running before the wind) an island was seen upon the starboard quarter about 4 or 5 miles
off. If this statement be true, the vessel could not have been lost in the position shown
in the charts, for Sapatu is only visible from the bridge of the Rifleman at a distance of
22 miles.

The Rifleman steamed about the position of the Rawson a whole day, but could find no
appearance of danger. The soundings upon the spot were 162 fathoms, with similar depths
around it. H.M.S. Saracen also passed over this spot some years ago and saw no danger.
It has also been passed over by many other vessels with the same result.

THE P YE AMID, ETC. 687

Rawson (the only vessel heard of striking on a shoal near Pulo Sapatu) was
lost upon the Julia ; and that from the impossibility of correctly calculating
the ship's position at the time of the accident, the navigation of the China
Sea was for twenty years encumbered with the Eawson Shoal.

The PYRAMID, or LITTLE CATWICK, is a small peaked rock 56 feet
high, lying N.W. by W. 5 W. 2^ miles from Pulo Sapata. It is steep close
to, with no danger near it, and can be seen about 9 to 10 miles.

The channel between this rock and Pulo Sapatu is free from danger, and
the soundings in it are deep, 50 to 65 fathoms. The following observations
from Horsburgh are very valuable, — " Although this passage seems to be
safe with a commanding wind, it ought not to be adopted excepting in a
case of emergency, for it is contracted, and the currents are strong and irre-
gular about these islands. Ships passing here in the night, during the N.E.

A day was also spent in searching for the Hopkins Bank, but no sign of danger was met
with in this case either.

For these reasons, therefore, and considering also that no authentic account of danger
having been seen near the position has since appeared, Lieut. Eeed thinks that it may be
fairly inferred that the Christopher Eauson was lost on Julia Shoal ; and that thsre is no
good reason for believing that any other danger exists in that locality.

A day was spent in carefuUy searching for the Forth, Columbia, and Alexander Shoals,
but nothing of the sort could be met with. Upon the positions of the Forth and Alexander
the Bifeman had no bottom with .500 fathoms ; and no bottom with 350 fathoms upon that
of the Columbia.

Mr. T. B. White, the late commander of the Lanrick and Fiery Cross, a gentleman of great
experience in the China Sea, in an able paper communicated to the Nautical Magazine
in 1853, thus mentions these shoals : — " The Shepherdess, Christopher Eawson, Forth, and
Alexander Shoals, I do not believe to exist. The Eawson was no doubt bilged on the 3-
fathoms patch (the Julia Shoal) lately found a few mUes S.E. of Pulo Sapatu. The Forth
Eock is said to have been seen at 2 a.m. in a dark squally night, and the Alexander s wreck
is asserted to have been seen on the Western Eeef. Nor need we be much surprised at
this latter discrepancy, when it is known that in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, obser-
vations are often not to be had for 36 or 48 hours, and the current in thut season often
runs from 30 to as much as 56 miles in 24 hours, varj-ing in direction from E. by S. to
N.E. by E."

Mr. Crockett, now commanding the steamer Clan Alpine, who has had similar experience
in the China Sea to Mr. White, also states that he has passed over the positions of all these
supposed shoals, and has never seen any sign of danger. Many similar statements have
been received from other captains not so well known as those referred to, but m every way
worthy of credit.

From the above statements, and from the result of the examination in the Eifleman, it
may be inferred that the main route to China is not fraught with so much difficulty and
danger as it has been hitherto considered to be, and that, with the exception of the Julia
and Eaglan Banks, there is no reliable report of the existence of any danger between Pulo
Sapatu and the western edges of the reefs known to extend from the North Danger Reef
far to the south-westward.

638 THE CHINA SEA.

monsoon, ought to make proper allowance for a south-westerly current, which
is liable to deceive, and to carry them down upon the island, particularly if
the wind is strong at the time."

ROUND ISLAND, or GREAT CAT WICK, is a barren rock 196 ft. high,
and about U cables in diameter, bearing W.N.W., distant 11 J miles from
Sapatu, and nearly South, about 30 miles from Pulo Ceicer de Mer. It is
bold close-to, having 30 to 50 fathoms at a short distance from it in all
directions.

LA PAIX ROCK is a small spot with a pinnacle awash lying nearly in the
fairway of the channel between Great and Little Catwick, and which may,
with this exception, be considered safe to navigate. From the pinnacle the
Great Catwick bears west-northerly, distant 4^ miles, and the Little Catwick
is seen open to the southward of Pulo Sapatu, bearing S.E. by E. -easterly,
5^ miles. Except in exceedingly fine weather, the sea always breaks upon
this rock, but vessels should not attempt the channel at night, unless their
position is exactly known, and other circumstances are favourable.

yXJSUN SHOAL, in lat. 10° 16' N., long. 109" 2' 15" E., is a small coral
patch of 4 fathoms, lying in the fairway of the channel between Ceicer de
Mer and the Catwicks. From it the S.W. summit of the former bears N. by
W. f W. 17 I miles, the Great Catwick S.S.W. i W. 14f miles, and Sapatu
S. by E. ;^ E. 18 miles, which is very nearly the position assigned to it by its
discoverer ; close around it are 45 and 50 fathoms, which is the general depth
of the middle of the channel ; but about a mile W.N.W. of the shoal is a
patch of 24 fathoms.

In fine weather the shoal is not easily seen, but when blowing hard in
the strength of the monsoons, the sea has been frequently observed to break
heavily upon it.

There is good reason to believe that the Yusun is the only danger in the
channel between Ceicer de Mer and the Catwicks, which is otherwise spacious
and safe. The soundings in the channel are irregular, and will be better
understood by a reference to the chart.

PTJLO CEICER DE MER is 3^ miles long North and South, and 1^ mile
broad. There are two small hills towards its North end, and they bear
E.N.E. and W.S.W. distant a mile from each other. The S.W. and higher
hill of the two is in lat. 10° 32' 36" N., long. 108° 56' 30" E. ; it is 360 feet
high, has a round top, slopes gradually until it joins the low land, and is
visible at 24 or 25 miles. The N.E. hill, 306 ft. high and of a conical torm,
rises abruptly from the low land, and has several irregular masses of rock
near its summit, which give it a somewhat remarkable appearance.

Nearly half a mile off the N.E. end of the island are several masses of
rocks with foul ground around them ; the most conspicuous is a large black
rock 60 ft. high. This part of the island should not be approached by ves-

PULO CEICER DE MER. 63&

sels of large draught nearer than 1 i or 2 miles, nor by small vessels nearer
than a mile. In a case of emergency it is possible, perhaps, to gain shelter
from the S.W. monsoon by anchoring off the N.E. end in 14 or 15 fathoms ;
but the bottom is rocky, bad holding ground, and by no means to be recom-
mended as an anchorage.

On the East side of the island is a sandy bay which has the appearance of
affording convenient anchorage ; but a coral reef not only fills it completely
up, but projects in such a manner that the 5 fathoms line of soundings forms
an arc of a circle convex to seaward more than a mile distant from the depth
of the bay, and approaches within a cable's length or two of the N.E. and
S.E. points of the island. Vessels should be extremely cautious in approach-
ing this treacherous bay, as the soundings decrease so suddenly from no
bottom with 40 or 50 fathoms to 4 or 5 fathoms, that the land cannot be relied
upon to give warning of the danger in sufficient time to avoid it.

At half a mile off the S.E. end of Ceicer de Mer is a small island lying
in a North and South direction, the highest point of which is 133 ft. above
the sea. The S.E. part of Ceicer de Mer is nearly the same height, and both
present steep rugged cliffs to the eastward. In the middle of the channel
between these islands is a mass of rocks just above water, between which and
the small island is a channel for boats. A quarter of a mile S.E. of the
small island is a conspicuous black rock 30 feet high, with smaller rocks
around it ; 2 cables' lengths S.E. of which, again, are two rocks awash. The
small island, therefore, should not be approached within a mile when bear-
ing to the westward of North.

Anchorage.— K sandy beach extends along the whole "West and S.W.
coasts of Ceicer de Mer, the S.W. point being formed by a number of black
rocks. There is fair anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, with a bottom of sand
and shells, all along these shores ; but the best is just to the southward of
the S.W. point, where vessels may conveniently anchor in 10 to 14 fathoms.
It is necessary, however, to be careful in coming to, as shoal water and rocks
extend about one-third of a mile from the island, and the depths rapidly
decrease from 1 1 to 4 fathoms.

Supplies, etc.—F\x\o Ceicer de Mer is inhabited by poor fishermen and
others, and is well cultivated, yet no supplies could be obtained. The
natives brought off a few fowls on one occasion, and seemed pleased to re-
ceive some empty bottles, biscuit, &c., in return ; but they refused all offers
of money, and woiild not be prevailed upon to sell anything. They were
much disturbed at the vessel remaining so long in their neighbourhood, and
kept up an almost incessant noise with drums and gongs all the time she
was at anchor. They always lined the beach, armed with spears and other
Chinese weapons, when any boat landed, but did not attempt to molest
the crew.

HIGH KOCK, of a white colour, 50 ft. high, and the resort of sea birds,

640 THE CHINA SEA.

lies N.W. i N. nearly 5 miles from the N.W. point of Ceieer de Mer. Nearly
half a cable's length northward of it is a small rock a few feet above water,
close to the northward of which is a rock awash.

In the channel between Ceieer de Mer and High Eock the depths vary
from S to 12 fathoms, and the bottom is coral. Near the rock some patches
of 5 and 6 fathoms were found, but no danger discovered. The channel
between Ceieer de Mer and Holland Bank is about 12 miles wide. The
depths in it are very irregular, varying from 26 to 10 fathoms, the bottom
generally sand, or sand and shells, at the deep soundings, and rocky at the
shoal ones.

HOLLAND BANE is composed of coral, and has various depths of water
upon it. Its greatest length (under a depth of 10 fathoms) is 6| miles
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and its breadth 4 miles. The shoalest patches are
towards its N.E. end. The soundings on these patches are very irregular ;
the least water found was 2i fathoms, reduced to low water springs. Erom
the centre patch, in lat. 10° 39' N., long. 108° 43' E., the S.W. summit of
Ceieer de Mer bore about E.S.E. 15 miles, and High Eock about E. by S.
10 J miles.

The S.W. hill of Ceieer de Mer bearing S.E. by E. I E. leads just outside
the depth of 10 fathoms, on the N.E. end of Holland Bank ; and bearing E.
by S. I S., leads outside the same depth on the South end. Therefore, ves-
sels passing northward of the bank, should not bring the S.W. or high and
sloping hill of Ceieer de Mer to the eastward of S.E. ; and those passing
southward of the bank should not bring the same hill to the southward
of East.

The soundings round the bank are very irregular, and afford no certain
guide, but the bank is much steeper on its eastern edge than elsewhere.
The lead, however, is not at all to be relied on in approaching that edge, for
20 fathoms may be had at one cast, and 4 fathoms the next. Excepting at
the eastern part, if the lead be attended to and hove quickly, it will point
out the edge of the bank before a ship gets into danger.

The following valuable remarks, from Horsburgh, cannot be improved
upon : — " To avoid this bank on its western side, do not raise Pulo Ceieer de
Mer more than to have the summits of the two hills visible from the poop
of a large ship when the island is bearing E. ^ S. and S.E. ; for if the low
part of the island between the hills be in sight from the poop, bearing from
E. by S. to E.S.E., the vessel will be near the edge of the bank."

Caution. — Vessels should keep a good look-out when passing between
Ceieer de Mer and High Eock, or High Eock and Holland Bank ; for
although many hundreds of soundings were obtained by the Rifleman, in
the neighburhood, and the result of the survey affords reasonable assurance
that these channels are quite safe, yet with depths so irregular, and the
bottom mostly of coral, the possibility of some small patch having escaped

THE PARACEL ISLANDS AND EEEFS. 641

the lead, even in the most careful survey, should always be borne in mind
and guarded against as far as possible.

The MINERVA BANK, lying to the north-eastward of Pulo Sapatu, was
discovered by the company's ship of this name, in 1821, "At noon, observed
in lat. 10° 32' N., steered N.E. ^ N. 5 miles, and about half-past noon, the
water appearing very much discoloured, kept the lead going quick ; had 40
fathoms first cast, then 35, 30, and 28 fathoms ; shortened sail, and hove to,
head to the S.E. ; next cast had 39, 40, and 42 fathoms, and continued this
depth by repeated soundings. From noon till 2 p.m., when lying to, had
steered N.E. ^ N. 8 miles, which gave 6 miles northing, placing the bank in
10° 38' N. ; and good sights taken at the same time made the long. 110° 18'
E. by means of three chronometers. The soundings upon the bank were all
coral rock, and it appeared to extend to about 11 mile in a north-easterly
direction, as in hauling to the southward the depth greatly increased. About
a quarter past 2 p.m. bore away, and gradually increased the soundings from
45 to 50 fathoms, then no bottom at 55 fathoms.

Soundings were tried for in the Rijleman on the supposed position of this
bank, but no bottom was obtained with 200 fathoms. Lieutenant Eeed has,
however, no doubt that it exists somewhere near its assigned position on
the chart ; but as 28 fathoms is the least water reported upon it, he did not
deem it sufficiently important to occupy his time in making a closer search.

THE PAEACEL ISLANDS AND EEEFS.

The PARACEL ISLANDS and REEFS are an extensive group of low
islands, reefs, and shoals, which extend from lat. 15° 45|' to 17° 8' N., and
from long. 111° 9' to 112° 43' E. Vessels should carefully avoid coming
within their limits, as the dangers among them are not accurately known.
This will be seen by the following description, taken from the survey made
by Captains Eoss and Maughan, of the Bombay Marine, in 1808. It may
induce caution if we remind our readers that H.M. gun-vessel Slancy was
wrecked on Drummond Eeef of this group during a gale on 16th May, 1870,
when 3 officers and 46 men were drowned, and only 9 of the crew saved.
The ship Caradacxis also went ashore during the same gale.

TRITON ISLAND, in lat. 15° 46' N., long. 111° 11' E., extends in aN. W.
and S.E. direction about 3 or 4 miles (according to a plan of it by Captain
Brown, of the Triton), and is thought to be the most southern and western
danger of the Paracels.^'' Its North part is a sandy lump, about 20 ft. high,

* In June, 1815, Captain Maughan, in the Investifjator, passed within a quarter of a mile
of apparently some patches of coral, having, he supposed, about 6 or 8 fathoms water over
I.A, 4 N

642 THE CHINA SEA.

sloping down in a low point to the S.E., with high breakers projecting a
great way in that direction ; another reef projects from its N.W. end ; there
are no soundings near it.

BOMBAY SHOAL, lying between lat. 15° 59' and 16° 6' N., and long.
112° 26' and 112° 38' E., is a reef of breakers of oblong form, about 12 miles
in extent E. by N. and "W. by S., having apparently an entrance at the
western part, with deep water inside ; some of the rocks are level with the
water, and have sandy patches inside of them. This shoal is steep-to, for at
three-quarters of a mile at its South side, the Bomlay had no bottom with
100 fathoms of line ; and close around it Captain Ross in his survey could
get no bottom. It seems to bear about S. by W. from Pyramid Rock, for
although the Bombaij made it several miles more easterly than the longitude
stated above from the survey of Captain Ross, it probably is not so ; because
the Jehangire observed at noon, in lat. 16° 5' N., long. 112° 52' E., and no
danger could be discerned from the mast-head.

JEHANGIRE BANK is named after the above ship, which got upon a
coral bank in lat- 16° 18' N., long. 112° 35' E., and had 12, 10, and 9^
fathoms water ; the next cast was 30 fathoms, and in less than an hour had
no bottom, drifting to the south-eastward by the lead, being calm at the time.
This seems to agree with the account of Capt. Eoss's pilot, who stated that
there are soundings on coral banks in a narrow line between Lincoln Island
and the Bombay Shoal, which, with those dangers, form the eastern boundary
of the Paracels.

Bremen Bank.— The North German schooner barque Charlotte, of Bremen,
Captain B. Steengrafe, reports a shoal under the following circumstances : —
Left Hong Kong on the 18th of March, bound on a voyage to Bangkok.
After a favourable passage of four days sighted the Paracels ; being desirous
of ascertaining the rates of chronometers, found old rates to be exactly cor-
rect by good observations and cross bearings. At 9 a.m. Lincoln Island
bore E. by N., and Pyramid Eock South per compass ; thence sailed S.S.W.
16 miles until noon. After having taken the meridian altitude of the sun,
found ourselves upon a coral bank. Set the lead going immediately, and
sounded carefully from 10 J to 12 J fathoms, within a few minutes to 1.
Sailed over it a distance of 5 miles in S.S.W. direction ; southern edge ap-
peared to stretch W.N.W. and E.S.E. ; bank visible from the topgallant
yard as far as we could discern. Had with more than 20 fathoms line no
soundings at about half a cable's length from the South edge. The true
position of the point of the bank we were on was, by dead reckoning, lat.

them ; but no soundings could be obtained with 110 fathoms of line at that distance, and a
boat could not be hoisted out to examine them, on account of the high sea and blowing
weather. These patches, seen at 2 p.m., are in lat, 14° 12' N., long. 112° 52' E. ; but it is
uncertain that they were real dangers.

PARACEL ISLANDS AND REEFS. 643

16° 24' N., long. 112° 24' E. ; by observations lat. 16° 24' N., long. 112° 25'
East. Had very fine -weather at the time, light easterly winds and little
swell from the same quarter, sky clear.

LINCOLN ISLAND, the S.E. point of which is in lat. 16° 39' 34" N., long.
112° 44' 23" E., is li mile long, N.W. and S.E., three-quarters of a mUe
wide, and about 20 ft. high ; it is covered with brushwood, and surrounded
by a coral reef, dry at low water, which extends 1^ mile from its S.E. point,
half a mile from its North and East sides, and about a cable's length from
its S.W. side. A narrow coral shoal runs off to the southward from its S.E.
point, which is said by Horsburgh to extend 1 1 miles ; time did not admit of
its being properly examined by the Rifleman, but judging from the soundings
that were obtained, the dangerous part of this shoal does not appear to ex-
tend farther than 3 miles from the island. Grood anchorage can be obtained
in the N.E. monsoon under its lee in 8 to 10 fathoms, coral, about half a mile
from the shore. The spring of excellent water in the centre of this island,
mentioned by Horsburgh, is merely a well dug by the Hainan fishermen
close to a stunted cocoa-nut tree, into which the salt water filters.

PYRAMID ROCK bears S.W. \ W., distant 7^ miles, from the S.E. point
of Lincoln Island, and 10 J miles N.W. by W. from the South end of the bank
extending southwards from that island. Between Lincoln Island and the
Pyramid there are depths of 27 to 31 fathoms.

H.M.S. Bido, in 1844, observed a shoal about 10 miles to the eastward of
Lincoln Island. It is shown on the chart as a doubtful danger in lat. 16°
45' N., long. 112° 54' E.

PASSOO KEAH, in lat. 16° 6' N., long. 111° 46' E., is a small sandy island,
surrounded by a coral reef, having no soundings near it.

DISCOVERY SHOAL or REEF.— The West end of this dangerous shoal
is in lat. 16° 11' 40' N., long. 111° 33' E. ; from thence it extends E.N.E. 15
or 16 miles to its eastern extremity in lat. 16° 16' N., long. Ill" 48J' E. The
reef is of the shape of an extended oval, with an opening 1 cable wide on its
South side, having in it overfalls from 2 to 20 fathoms, and a small opening
on the North side. There are no soundings about 20 yards from the reef,
and scarcely 2 fathoms water over any part of it, with many spiral rocks a
few feet above the water's edge. The Hainan boats come here to fish from
January to May.

Vuladdore Shoal, lying 9 or 10 miles E. by N. from the Discovery Shoal,
is 7 miles in extent E.N.E. and W.S.W. It has a few small spiral rocks on
it above water, with high breakers, and no soundings at the distance of a
cable's length on either side. Captain Ross made the centre of this shoal
in lat. 16° 18' N., long. 112° 2' E. ; the Portuguese snow Vuladdore, in her
passage from Macao to Manila, saw it in lat. 16° 19' N., long. 112° 5' E.,
bearing S. 15° W. 39 miles from the Amphitrite Islands. She had passed

644 THE CHINA SEA.

to the westward of these islands on the preceding day, and in steering south-
ward had no soundings, nor did she see any other shoal but that which has
been named after her.

The Crescent Chain of islands and reefs, called by Captain Eoss, Money,
Robert, Pattle, Drummond, and Duncan Islands, extends from lat. 16° 27'
*to 16° 37' N., and from long. 111° 28' to 111° 46' E. They consist of six low
sandy islands, for the most part connected by reefs, stretching nearly East
and West in the form of a crescent, at the East end of which an elbow is
formed by part of the reef turning round to the south-westward ; on this
part stand the two Duncan Islands, with an opening 4 miles between their
contiguous reef and the Antelope Shoal, which lies about 2 miles to the east-
ward of Money, the western island of the group. This opening is on the
South side of the chain, and inside there are soundings ; but the ground is
chiefly coral, with great overfalls from 25 to 5 fathoms. The best anchorage
is close to the reef, on the North side of Duncan Island, where there are
some broad patches of sandy bottom.

The Duncan and Drummond Islands were more particularly examined by
the Rifleman, and the passage between them sounded. The two Duncan
Islands are now joined by a sandy spit which is always uncovered ; they
extend a mile in an East and "West direction, are 4 cables in breadth, and
surrounded by a coral reef which extends in some places 4 cables from the
shore, and dries at low water. On the westernmost of the islands is a cocoa-
nut tree.

Drummond Island is nearly round, its diameter being about 3 cables ; at
2 cables South of it is a rock which never covers. A reef of coral extends
a short distance from the West side of the island, but runs for miles to the
eastward and north-eastward of it. Both Duncan and Drummond Islands
are covered with brushwood. Between them is a safe channel, upwards of
a mile in width, with from 19 to 20 fathoms water. Horsburgh says this
channel should not be taken in large vessels, the passage westward of Dun-
can Island being preferable ; but the Rifleman, when passing between Dun-
can and Money Islands, suddenly got to shoal water, which appeared to
extend across that channel, and therefore the channel between Duncan and
Drummond Islands is certainly safer for steamers. Vessels may anchor to
the northward of Duncan Island in from 16 to 18 fathoms, about half a mile
off shore.

Observation Bank, in lat. 16° 36' N., long. 111° 40^' E., is small, lies on
the North side of the Crescent Chain, and may be considered as part of it.
Within this bank, about 3 miles to the southward, is an anchorage from 5
to 20 fathoms, on a coral bottom.

Hotspur Shoal, on which an American ship of this name was wrecked in
1860, is said to lie in lat. 16° 51' N., long. 111° 30' E. ; it is likely, however,
to be the North shoal, lying to the northward.

AMPHITEITE ISLANDS-MACCLESFIELD BANK. 645

AMPHITRITE ISLANDS are in two groups, lying N.N.W. and S.S.E. of
each other, and having a deep-water channel between them. The northern
group consists of four low, narrow islands, connected by a reef of rocks that
projects 2 or 3 miles beyond their extremes ; upon the westernmost island
there is a cocoa-nut tree, from which it has received the name of Tree Island.
The western extremity of the reef surrounding these islands is in lat. 16° 59'
N., long. 112° 12' E. ; the reef extends about 10 miles E.S.E., the eastern
extremity being in lat. 16°54'N., long. 112°22'E., and it forms the northern
limit of danger in this part of the archipelago. There are no soundings on
the North side, but there is good anchorage in 10 fathoms, sand, under the
S.E. side of the chain, about half a mile from the rocks ; no fresh water is
procurable.

The southern group consists of two islands, called "Woody and Rocky,
lying very near each other. Woody Island, in lat. 16° SOV N., long. 112°
19' E., is about 3 miles in circumference, covered with small trees. A reef
projects around this island to the distance of three-quarters of a mile, con-
nected with Eocky Island.

Eocky Island, in lat. 16° 52' N., long. 112° 19^' E., is small, and nearly
of the same h^ght as Woody Island ; there are no soundings to the N.E.
or eastward of it, but irregular soundings extend 6 miles to the S.W. of
these islands, decreasing to 14 fathoms in some places. Close to the reef
on the West side of Woody Island there are 25 fathoms ; and the depths
decrease gradually from 30 to 15 fathoms towards the Amphitrite Islands,
where a vessel may anchor if requisite.

The North Shoal, extending E.N.E. and W.S.W. about 6 miles, is narrow
and steep-to, having soundings only on the North side, 14 fathoms within
half a cable's length of the rocks. The East end of this shoal or reef is in
lat. 17° 6V N., long. 11 T 32i' E., and it appears to be the north-western
danger of the Paracels.

Tides and Currents. — At the Crescent chain, and at some other of the Pa-
racel Eeefs, there are regular tides during the springs. The currents run
generally strong before the wind in both monsoons, but in light winds be-
tween the monsoons they are continually changing their direction amongst
the shoals. Ships ought, therefore, never to come within the limits of these
dangers, if it can possibly be prevented, for they may be drifted upon some
of the reefs during calms, close to which there is no anchorage. There are
several channels between the different reefs or shoals, from 12 or 15 to 30
and 35 miles wide.

MACCLESFIELD BANK, discovered by the English ship of this name in
1701, is of greater extent than is generally supposed, for the Fort St. David

646 THE CHINA SEA.

country ship is said to have obtained soundings in lat. 15° 17' N., on its
southern part; and in lat. 16° 19' N. by noon observation, the Stormont had
14 fathoms on its northern part, and about 1 mile farther to the south vrard
she had 14 fathoms water ; the Cirencester also had a quarter less 10 fathoms,
in lat. 16° 19' N., long. 114° 33' E., deepening gradually until in lat. 16°
21J' N., then 55 fathoms, no ground. The bank, therefore, appears to ex-
tend from lat. 15° 17' to 16° 21' N. ; its length East and West being about
90 miles, the western edge being nearly in long. 113° 40' E., and the eastern
edge in about long. 114° 53' E.

The depths on this bank are generally very irregular, from 25 or 30 to 40
or 50 fathoms, coral rock ; and in some places, where the soundings are a
little regular, the bottom is coarse or fine sand. There appear to be gaps
in some parts of the bank, where no soundings have been obtained with 80
or 100 fathoms of line ; for several ships, in steering directly over it, after
getting ground, have lost soundings for a considerable time, and obtained
them again.

On the northern and eastern parts of the bank there are level patches of
considerable dimensions, with regular soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy
bottom ; there are also some patches on the southern and western parts, with
14 to 17 fathoms upon them.

The greatest extent of the bank. East and West, appears to be near its
northern extremity, for soundings have been obtained in long. 114° 51' E.
In lat. 15" 56' N., and long. 114° 51' E., the Thetis had 11^ fathoms, and
carried soundings 3 or 4 miles farther to the eastward, deepening to 20, 40,
60, and 75, then 80 fathoms, no ground, when in long. 114° 55' E.

The Admiralty chart shows soundings of 17 and 20 fathoms, in about lat.
15° 58' N., long. 115° 6' E., and a cast of 130 fathoms in long. 115" 10',
which is 17 miles eastward of Horsburgh's extreme eastern position. The
chart also shows 5J and 6 fathoms between the parallels of 16° 4' and 16° 12'
N. in about long. 113° 54' E., with 30, 40, and 80 fathoms extending to the
northward, the latter depth being in lat. 16° 35' N.

In 1857 the Siamese vessel Bangkok, Captain Moses, when crossing this
bank in lat. 16° 2^' N., long. 114° 2J' E., got suddenly into 5^ to 4 fathoms,
coral and red sand, and as suddenly deepened to 10, 16, add 20 fathoms; the
weather was fine and the sea smooth, otherwise with a swell he believes it
would break.*'

* H.M.S. Rifleman made three passages across the bank from North to South, in about
long. 114° 30', 114°, and 113° 40'. The follov/ing description of these passages will be of
service.

On the first occasion, on her way from Hong Kong to the North Danger, she crossed the
Macclesfield Bank in March, 1865. Soundings were struck in lat. 16° 11' N., long. 114*
26 E., in 116 fathoms, bottom sand and mud, a line of soundings was then carried in a

ST. ESPRIT SHOAL. 647

Bet-ween the western edge of the Macclesfield Bank and the eastern limit
of the Paracel Eeefs, it has been said there are other coral banks, with
soundings of various depths upon them ; yet, in this space of about 30 miles,
probably no soundings are to be obtained.

ST. ESPRIT SHOAL. — The examination of the various positions ascribed
to this shoal was made in May, 1866, by Navigating Lieut. John W. Reed,
Commanding H.M.S. Rifleman, in the tender Dove. The shoal was stated to
be " 6 leagues in diameter, with 9 to 15 fathoms on its southern part, and
on the northern part there are rocks even with the water's edge," but no
Buch dangerous shoal exists near any of these ascribed positions, all of which
were sounded over by the Dove under circumstances extremely favourable for
observing the sea topping or breaking over dangerous patches, had any such
existed.

The Esprit Shoal was found to be a coral bank 2^ miles in length, East
and AVest, and 1^ mile in breadth ; its centre being in lat. 19° 33' N., long.
113° 2' E. The general depths upon it are 9 fathoms, the least water ob-
tained being 7 fathoms, with 60 to 80 fathoms close to. The Dove remained
at anchor upon the shoal for two days, on both of which good observations
were obtained for determining its position.

Captain Ross, of the Discovery, who passed over the shoal in 1813, placed
it about 5 miles to the south-eastward, and Monsieur D'Apres 19 miles to
the westward, of the above position. D'Apres' position was well sounded
over, and regular depths of 95 to 100 fathoms obtained. The Asseviedo's

S. by E. direction over the bank, and the least depth of water met with was 12 fathoms,
the general depths being from 40 to 50 fathoms ; but a patch of 15 fathoms was found near
its southern edge in lat. 15° 34' N., long. 114° 30' E. ; and 5 miles farther southward no
bottom could be obtained with 307 fathoms of line.

On the second occasion, in April, 1867, star observations placed the ship at o^ 30"" a.m.
in lat. 16° 34' N., long. 114° 13' E. ; from thence steered for the 4-fathom patch, reported
to have been passed over in 1867, by Mr. Moses, commanding the Siamese vessel Bangkok,
in lat. 16° 2' 30" N., long. 114° 2' 30" E. ; the deep-sea lead was kept constantly going, but
no bottom was obtained with 50 to 60 fathoms of line, At noon found the ship to be in
lat. 15° 59' N., long. 113° 58' E., and that she had passed about 2 miles to the westward of
the ascribed position of the patch. Proceeding to the southward, soundings of 42 fathoms,
coral bottom, were had on the northern edge of the bank in lat. 15° 51' N., long. 113° 57'E.
Regular depths of 42 and 43 fathoms were carried until in lat. 15° 30' N., long. 113° 57' E.,
where 32 fathoms were obtained ; 3 miles South of this position no bottom was reached
with 103 fathoms.

On the third occasion, during her passage from Hong Kong to the reefs in May, 1868,
she struck soundings in 40 fathoms on the northern edge of the bank in 15° 38' N., and
113° 40' E. ; frem this position a line of soundings— 40 to 33 fathoms— was carried across
the bank in a S. |^ E. direction for 11 miles, when no bottom with 50, and immediately
afterwards no bottom with 100 fathoms of line could be obtained.

648 THE CHINA SEA.

account placed the shoal in lat. 19° 6' N., long. 113° 4' E., and this position
was also sounded over, but no bottom could be obtained with 200 fathoms
of line.

The Dove also sounded over the position of the discoloured water seen from
the Altliea in 1806, lat. 19° 36' N., long. 112° 17' E., but regular depths from
65 to 70 fathoms were found in that locality.

Helen Shoal is a small patch If mile in length, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and
a mile wide ; its centre is in lat. 19° 12' N., long. 113° 53' 39" E. The least
water upon it is 6J fathoms, the general depths being 8 and 9 fathoms ;
around it no bottom could be obtained with 100 fathoms of line.

Currents. — The strong ripplings mentioned by Eoss, were not observed
by the officers of the Dove, during the two days she was anchored on the St.
Esprit Shoal. Strong ripplings were, however, seen during the search over
the various positions ascribed to the shoal, but on examination they appeared
to be mere current ripplings, the water being as deep there as elsewhere.
The current was found to set generally to leeward.

Captain Eoss was of opinion that the shoal was of small extent, and that
the report of dry rocks on it is erroneous, as the swell at the time the Disco-
very was crossing it was high, and would have produced breakers on any
very shoal parts ; whereas no discoloured water was visible till in 10 fathoms,
although the day was clear ; but strong ripplings broke on board the ship
when in the vicinity of the shoal, which might be mistaken for breakers by
persons unacquainted.

PALAWAN PASSAGE.

The following dangers lying in the fairway of vessels proceeding to the
Palawan passage on their way to China, were (with the exception of the
Louisa Shoal, examined by Captain Bate, H.M.S. Roijalist, in 1850-54) sur-
veyed in 1863 and in 1866 by Navigating Lieutenant J. W. Eeed, command-
ing H.M.S. Rifleman.

The adjacent coast of Borneo has been described on pages 481 to 512, and
Balabac Strait and the islands to the northward, including Palawan, in
chapter xiii, pages 513 to 584. What follows will be a description of the
outlying shoals, and of those lying on the edge of the Borneo and Palawan
bank of soundings, which are passed in sailing through this channel to or
from the China coast, commencing from the south-westward.

Caution. — Lieut. Eeed, E.N. remarks, when engaged in the examination
of the dangers the weather was remarkably fine— finer indeed than had been
experienced in any previous season ; little or no current was found, and the
sea was in general so smooth that hardly a breaker appeared on the edges

DANGERS S.W. OF PALAWAN PASSAGE. 649

of the dry reefs ; this made it difficult to detect dangers, and it was only
during the search for the Dhaulle Shoal that the weather was favourable for
doing so. Up to the 8th of June, when the Rifleman arrived at Manila, the
weather continued fine, with the exception of occasional light squalls of wind
and rain, and on the 10th the first of the S.W. monsoon was felt, the weather
still remaining very fine.

SOUTH LUCONIA SHOALS comprise a group of four coral shoals, the
southernmost of which is about a mile in extent, and in the form of a horse-
shoe, with the open part to the north-eastward ; between the horns of the
shoal are 26 fathoms. The general depths on the shoal are from 2 to 3
fathoms, but near the N.W. extreme is a rock nearly awash. The southern
extreme of the middle part of the shoal is in lat 4° 59J' N., long. 112° 39J'
E., and bears from Barram Point W. by N. \ N., distant 81 miles.

The westernmost shoal of the group, lying about W. by N. distant 7 miles
from the southernmost one, is nearly 2 miles long N.W. and S.E., and about
three-quarters of a mile broad. The general depths over it are 2 and 3
fathoms, but near the S.E. extreme is a rock just below the surface of the
water, and a similar one at the N.W. extreme ; the latter is in lat. 5° 2\' N.,
long. 112=31i'E.

Luconia Breakers. — A reef, nearly half a mile in extent, and upon which
the sea breaks even in fine weather, lies on the eastern extreme of a shoal,
over which are various depths under 5 fathoms. The shoal extends nearly
2 miles in a north-westerly, and about a mile in a south-westerly, direction
from the centre of the breakers, which is in lat. 5° 3' 24" N., long. 112° 41'
36" E.

One mile north-eastward of the centre of the breakers is the South extreme
of a narrow strip of shoal, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, which extends
from thence about N. by E. for a distance of 2 miles. The North extreme
of this shoal is in lat. 5° 5f' N., long. 1 12° 42|' E.

The whole of these shoals are steep-to.

There is good reason to believe that no dangers exist between the South
Luconia Shoals and the coast of Borneo.* Many lines of soundings were
obtained in the Rifleman from these shoals in directions between S.W. (round
southward) and East, but no dangers could be discovered. The general
depths were from 55 to 69 fathoms.

NORTH LUCONIA SHOALS.— Upon the old charts of the China Sea a

* The Rifleman steamed for three days over and about the reputed positions of two very-
doubtful dangers, named on the old charts of Horsburgh, Kirton Shoal and Euphrates
Eeef. The weather and other circumstances were extremely favourable for seeing shoal
patches, but nothing was visible, nor could bottom with 600 fathoms be obtained on the
position ascribed to the Euphrates Keef.

I. A. 4

650 THE CHINA SEA.

number of dangers were shown between the parallels of 5° 20' and 6" 2' N.,
and the meridians of 112° 14' and 112° 40' E. ; they were named Lugonia,
Seahorse, George and Ambercrombie, and Friendship Shoals. These dan-
gers were examined by H.M.S, Rifleman^ and were found to consist of a mass
of coral reefs and shoals, amongst which no vessel should venture. The
above general name is now adopted as applying to the entire group, but
the names given by the original discoverers have been retained for particular
or conspicuous localities.

The southern extreme of the group is marked by two shoal patches, about
4 miles apart, but lying in the same latitude, 5° 11 \' N., and each of them
is rendered conspicuous by rocks just below the surface of the water, upon
which the sea breaks with the least swell.

The western patch, about a mile in extent East and "West, and a quarter
of a mile wide, has but 1 to 2 fathoms water over it, and near its western
end, in long. 112° 32^' E., are two rocks nearly awash, upon which the sea
is generally breaking even in fine weather. About half a mile West of these
rocks is a patch of 3 fathoms, on the eastern extreme of a coral bank, with
2 fathoms least water, which extends from thence — curving gradually to the
north-westward — for a distance of 3 miles.

The eastern patch has, like the western patch just described, two rocks
nearly awash at its western extreme, in long. 112° 38' E., and upon which
also the sea is generally breaking even in fine weather. The shoal patch
upon which they lie has 2 fathoms water over it, and, about a mile eastward
of the rocks, it forms the south-eastern extreme of a long, narrow coral bank,
which extends irom thence 6^ miles, in a general direction about N.N.W.,
its average breadth being about a third of a mile. The general depths over
this bank are 4 or 5 fathoms, but there are several patches of 2 and 3
fathoms, and a rather extensive patch near its north-western extreme, in lat.
5° 32f' N., long. 112° 35^' E., has as little as 1^ fathom over it.

Seahorse Breakers, in lat. 5° 31' N., long. 112° 34' E , is the most con-
spicuous danger of the Lugonia Shoals. It is a reef of rocks and sand just
above water, about a mile long, N. by E. and S. by W., and one-third of a
mile broad. From these breakers shoals extended as far as the Rifleman was
able to sound in 1863, viz., 18 miles North, 5 miles South, 5 miles East, and
13 miles West.

The northernmost of the shoal patches reached in 1863 was in lat. 5° 48'
30" N., long. 119° 32' 15" E. In 1866 the vessel was anchored near a 2|-
fathom patch, in lat. 5° 55' 15" N., long. 112° 31' 30" E., on the northern
edge of a coral bank, traced for 2 miles to the southward, but which no
doubt extends to the northernmost patch surveyed in 1863, and just referred
to ; vessels should not pass between these positions.*

* Captain Bate in H.M.S. Moyalist passed over the position ascribed to the George and
Abercrombie ■without finding it. He supposed that it and the Friendship were the Bame

DANGEES S.W. OF PALAWAN PASSAGE. 651

Friendship Shoal is the northernmost of the Lugonia group ; the Rifleman
crossed it without getting less than 4^ fathoms, although there appeared to
he less depths in some places. The North part of the shoal is in lat. 5° 59'
30" N., long. 112° 31' 30" E., and though this position must be considered
approximate, it is nevertheless near the truth. Lines of soundings were
obtained in directions N.E., North, and N.W. from the North end of the
shoal for a distance of 4 miles, but no shoal water was found. The survey
of the Lugonia Shoals was not (October, 1867) completed to the northward
and westward.

Caution.— No directions can be given that will enable vessels to pass safely
through these reefs and shoals. Although not less than 2 fathoms were
found upon those to the northward of the Seahorse Breakers, yet they should
be avoided, as it is quite possible there may be knolls with less water upon
them which have escaped the lead.*

Louisa Shoal, the S.W. rock of which is in lat. 6° 19f N., long. 113° 18^'
E., or 9° 27' 12" East of Fullerton Battery, Singapore, by H.M.S. Royalist,
in October, 1851, is a dangerous coral reef of quadrangular form, two-thirds
of a mile in extent from East to West. The rocks on it are generally covered
at high water, with the exception of two small clusters on its eastern and
south-western extremes ; the centre of the shoal is shallow. There are no
soundings with 50 fathoms close to its outer edge, nor with 180 fathoms a
quarter of a mile to the south-westward of the shoal, but within 20 yards of
the S.W. rock there are 10 fathoms.

The Tidal Stream at the Louisa Shoal at noon, on the full and change days
in the month of October, 1850, was setting to the W.N.W., and the maxi-
mum rise appeared to be about 4 ft.

VERNON BANK, discovered by H.M.S. Vernon in 1847, is a large coral
shoal, having a dangerous group of rocks, named after H.M.S. Fury, upon
one part, and a patch of 2f fathoms on another part of it. The bank lies
between the parallels of 5° 39' and 5° 50^' N., and the meridians of 114° 57 J'
and 115° 7i' E., and is in form of an irregular triangle, having its base, 6

shoal ; but the error was in the longitude of the George and Ambercrombie, which placed
it too far to the westward. It exists, and forms part of the mass of shoals which extend
continuously from the Seahorse Breakers to the Friendship.

* Captain Bate also passed over the position assigned in Horsburgh's chart, tIz., lat.
5° 54' N., long. 114' 7' E., to the Cayo Marino, a 3-fathom shoal, without being able to
discover it; nor could soundings be obtained when in the neighbourhood, with from 180
to 200 fathoms.

The Cava Shoal, placed in lat. 5' 51' N., long. 114° 30f' E., was searched for in vain by
the Rifleman. On the spot mud bottom was obtained with 415 fathoms of line. She also
anchored in 46 fathoms on the supposed position of a reef, on which the steamer South-
westerti is said to have struck, in lat. b" 54' N., 115° 4|' E., and sounded round it for miles,
obtaining regular soundings. Commander Ward confidently asserts that the reef, does
not exist.

652 THE CHINA SEA.

miles in length, to the S.W. and its apex to the N."W., extending in those
directions about 12 miles.

The Fury, in 1858, crossed the western edge of this bank, and saw
breakers about 1^ mile in extent, which no doubt were on the Eury Eocks.
This formidable danger is nearly 3 miles in extent, and consists of coral
patches, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over them, and several detached rocks,
one or two of which nearly uncover at low water. These rocks are pinnacle-
shaped, with 4 to 6 fathoms aroimd them, so that in fine weather there is
seldom much break of the sea over them, and sometimes none at all pro-
bably. The centre of the rocks is in lat. 5° 43^' N., long. 115° 2i' E., and
with the eye 18 ft. above the sea, the highest part of Labuan (303 ft.) is just
visible, bearing S.S.E. | E.

The soundings on the other parts of the bank are irregular, with several
patches of but 4 and 5 fathoms, and on the West and N.W. sides of the
bank is a sort of curved coral wall, convex to seaward, having 4J to 9 fa-
thoms on it, 14 to 19 fathoms inside of it, and 20 to 30 fathoms close outside
of it. As the Eury Eocks lie 2 to 3 miles inside the edge of the bank, the
lead, if carefully attended to, will give sufficient warning to avoid them ; but
large vessels should on no account make free with this dangerous bank, and
small vessels will do well to give it a wide berth, for the currents in the
vicinity are very uncertain.

The 2f-fathom patch, near the N.E. extreme of the bank, is in lat. 5° 49'
20" N., long. 115° 5' 20". It is a small coral knoll, surrounded to some dis-
tance by soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms. This part of the bank should also
be avoided.

Samarang Bank, its centre in lat. 5° 35^' N., long. 114° 53f E., is an
oval-shaped coral bank 6^ miles long, E. by N. and W. by S., and 4| miles
wide. The general depths on it are 4 to 6 fathoms, and the least water
found was 3^ fathoms. From the centre of the bank the highest part of
Labuan (303 ft.) bears S.E. by E. \ E.

Saracen Bank. — H.M. surveying vessel Saracen, in 1854, on her passage
from Labuan to Hong Kong, discovered an extensive coral bank, having
generally from 2 to 4 fathoms water over it, with dry patches and several
coral knolls with but a few feet water over them. The bank is 5 or 6 miles
in diameter, and its centre is in about lat. 6° 7|' N., long.^ll5° 20 J' E.,
bearing W. by S. ^ S., distant 14 or 15 miles from Mangalum Island
(page 505).

Dangers had been seen in this locality before, but their positions were
quite uncertain. It seems very probable that other dangers may exist here-
about besides those known.

ROYAL CHARLOTTE SHOAL, of a nearly rectangular shape, is li mile
in length, N.W. by W., and S.E. by E., and nearly a mile in breadth. On

DANGEES S.W. OF PALAWAN PASSAGE. 653

its south-eastern side are stones 2 to 4 ft. above high water ; the highest of
them is in 6° 57' 18" N., and 113° 35' 30" E. ; there are also one or two
stones on itsN.E. edge, which just show at high water. This shoal and also
the Louisa, although lying off the coast of Borneo, may be said more pro-
perly to belong to Palawan, for they may be considered, both in their cha-
racter and position, to form a suitable portal through which to introduce the
navigator to this Channel.*

Swallow Reef and Ardasier Shoal are described hereafter.

Doubtful Dangers.— Viper Shoal is marked doubtful on the chart, in lat.
7° 30' N., long. 115° E. The Royalist passed over its assigned position, and
when on the spot could get no bottom with 500 fathoms, though the day
was clear, and conditions good for detecting a danger. The Saracen subse-
quently passed oyer the same ground with a view to its discovery, and with
the same result.

Ottawa Shoal. — This danger was reported by Mr. Gribble, commanding
the Peninsular and Oriental steamer Ottawa, and supposed by him to be the
Yiper Eock. The following is an extract from the log-book of that vessel,
dated December 6th 1860 : — " Sighted from the mast-head broken water on
the port bow, having every appearance of being a shoal about half a cable
in extent from East to West, with no indication of shoal water near it.
When abeam it was about 2 or 3 miles distant from the ship, and was
then visible from the deck. Position of the shoal lat. 7° 16' N., long.
115° 5' E.

The Rifleman searched for this danger for three days, but could find no
indication of it, nor could bottom be got with 1,000 fathoms of line. The
area sounded over is comprised within the following limits : — 8 miles East,
15 miles West, 5 miles North, and 5 miles South of the position given
above.

North Viper Shoal or Seahorse, is shown on the chart as a shoal with
rocks above water, 5 miles in extent, lying between the parallels of 7° 59' and
8° 4' N., and in long. 115° 23' E. The position of this reputed shoal was
not examined by the Rifleman. The Saracen passed near it without seeing
any appearance of shoal water, but from the following account of a reef seen
by Mr. Baird, this danger would appear to lie 17 miles N. J E. of its ascribed
position on the chart.

* Sandy Island, reported in 1863 by Mr. "W. Andrew, master of the barque Tliames, to
be in about 7' 20' N., 114° 10' E., was looked for in the Rifkinan. At noon, from lat. 7°
12' N., and long. 114° 1' E., a course was shaped for the assigned pusition of the island ; at
2^ 30"" p.m. the vessel was in the same latitude and 1 mile to the eastward of it ; from
thence a course was steered for the South Ardasier Shoal. No appearance of shoal water
could be seen from the vessel on either of these courses, and certainly no island exists
within 5 or 6 miles on either side of the lines passed over.

654 THE CHINA SEA.

Commodore Reef. — Mr. Hugh Baird, commanding the ship Commodore, re-
ports as follows: — Monday, December 22nd, 1862, at 8 a.m., saw what I
took to be the Viper North Shoal, or Seahorse, the N.E. end bearing by
compass N.N.W. 3 miles ; it seemed to extend over 3 miles N.E. and S.W.
Partly dry sand, and several rocks from 20 to 30 ft. above water, and heavy
breakers all around it. At noon it bore W. by S., distant about 6 miles ;
lat. by observation 8° 22' N., long. 115° 31' E., placing the shoal 17 miles
North of its position on the Admiralty chart.*

DANGERS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE PALAWAN

PASSAGE.

HALF-MOON SHOAL, having the Inclined Rock on its eastern side in lat.
8° 51|' N., long. 116° 16' 45" E., by H.M.S. Royalist, in July, 1853, is
formed by a belt of coral even with the water's edge, of the average width
of one cable's length, except at its S.W. extremity, where it is broader. It
is of oblong shape, the long diameter being nearly 3 miles in a N.E. and
S.W. direction, and the average width of the shoal one mile. On the eastern
side, to the southward of the Inclined Rock, there are two breaks in the belt

* EoGEE Breakees.— Heavy breakers were seen in about lat. 8° 21' N., long. 116° 25' E.,
from the Peninsular and Oriental steamer Formosa, commanded by Mr. Eoger, on the 4th
of January, 1858. There was a swell from the N.E., and the broken water, about 10 yards
in extent North and South, was apparently caused by a rock a few feet under water. The
vessel proceeded slowly, and soundings were occasionally tried for with 100 fathoms, no
bottom. The weather was thick and rainy, but on clearing up observations and a bearing
of the distant land confirmed the position of the breakers by dead reckoning.

Navigating- Lieutenant Keed, commanding H.M. surveying vessel Rifleman, remarks: —
" This is another instance in which it was most desirable that a boat should have been
lowered from the Formosa to examine the breakers and to find out if there was really any
rock there or not. It was of the greatest importance to avoid placing a doubtful danger at
the very entrance and in the centre of the fairway of the Palawan Channel. An hour or
so would have decided the point beyond doubt, whereas several valuable days of the Rifk'
man's time were occupied in searching for the Ottawa Shoal and Roger Breakers without
enabliug us after all to decide the matter positively."

Mr. Curling, commanding the Peninsular and Oriental steamer China, who has made
many voyages by this route, asserts that the appearance of breaker* where no real danger
exists, is very common in the Palawan. This is further corroborated by the following ex-
tract from the log-book of the ship Veloz, Commander Mr, John Jones :—" At noon, 6th
November, 1859, lat. 8° 2i\ N., long. 116° 25' E, At lOh 30m a.m. the mast-head look-out
reported breakers about a mile on the port beam. Lowered a boat, and sent the chief
officer to examine the spot. It proved to be an extensive patch of seaweed, drift wood, and
a great number of fish. No soundings at 50 fathoms. We were passing over the spot
marked ' iloger Breakers ' on the chart, but could not see any indication of it."

DANGEES IN THE PALAWAN PASSAGE 655

forming channels into the basin, the southernmost of which has 4 to 9 fa-
thoms in it, and is marked by a cluster of rocks, which generally show
above water. Half-tide Eocks are interspersed over the belt, the largest of
which is at the N.W. extremity of the shoal. The average depth in the
basin is 14 and 16 fathoms, with numerous patches of coral scattered about
it. From the shoal Balabac Peak (pages 522-3) bears S.E. ^ S., distant 71
miles ; Bulanhow Mountain (page 540)) E. by S. J S. ; and the Elbow or
nearest part of the bank of soundings fronting Palawan Island (page 656)
S.E. ^ E. 39 miles.

Tides. — It is high water at the Half-Moon Shoal, 5 days after full and
change, at 10^ 45" a.m., and the rise is about 4 feet.

ROYAL CAPTAIN SHOAL lies E.N.E. 23^ miles from the Half-Moon
Shoal, and N.W. \ W. from the edge or nearest part of the bank, contract-
ing the channel, which is here the narrowest part, to 25|- miles in width .
Observation Eock, at its North extremity, which shows at half tide, is in lat.
9° 1' 45' N., long. 116° 39' 36" E. ; from it Balabac Peak bears S. by E. ^ E.,
distant 68^ miles, Bulanhow Mountain S.E. by E. ^ E. ; and in clear weather
the high land of Mantaleengahan (page 542) is visible. The shoal is ellip-
tical, the length being If mile in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with a breadth
of one mile. The belt, which is entirely covered at high water, and of ir-
regular form in the inner rim, varies very much in width, the broadest part
being at the S.E. extremity, where it is 2 cables. There are depths of 15
to 17 fathoms, sand and coral, with several coral patches, inside the basin.
There is no entrance, but at high water a boat can cross the belt. The
outer edge is steep-to, having no bottom with upwards of 100 fathoms,
within half a cable's length of the reef. Only a few rocks on the belt show
at low water.

Tides. — It is high water at the Eoyal Captain Shoal, 6 days after full and
change, at 11.30 a.m. ; the rise is about 4 feet.

SOMBAY SHOAL, on which the French frigate Madagascar was wrecked,
in 1841, lies N.E. by N. 29 miles from the Eoyal Captain Shoal, and 27^
miles from the nearest part of the bank of soundings. Madagascar Eock,
on its N.E. extremity, is in lat. 9"^ 26' 7" N., long. 116' 56' 4" E., and
from it Mantaleengahan Mountain bears S.E. ^ E. ; and Bulanhow S.S.E.
^E.

This shoal is in the form of an ellipsis, lying in a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion one mile in length by three-quarters of a mile in breadth. The basin,
in which there are 16 and 18 fathoms, sand, is completely enclosed by a
belt, on which three or four rocks show at half tide, the most conspicuous
being at the North extremity of the shoal. There are 30 fatlioms outside
the reef, within 20 yards of the S.W. and N.E. extremes ; but beyond, there
is no bottom in any direction with upwards of 150 fathoms line.

656 THE CHINA SEA.

The Bombay is the northernmost and smallest of this description of shoals
in the Palawan Passage.

Tides. — It is high water at the Bombay Shoal, 7 days after full and change
at noon ; rise about 4 feet. While the tide was rising, the current was ob-
served setting to the N.E.

CARNATIC SHOAL is said to lie about N.E. by N. 47 miles from the
Bombay Shoal, in lat. 10° 6' N., long. 117° 21' E., and to have as little as 3^
fathoms over it. H.M.S. Royalist, in July, 1853, could not discover the shoal
in the position assigned to it, or succeed in obtaining soundings with from
100 to 200 fathoms, when in the neighbourhood.

Other banks and dangers (outliers of the great prolific coral bed) are
reported to exist to the north-eastward of this and the Bombay Shoal, by
vessels which have deviated from the proper channel course, all which appear
to have no soundings near them.*

DANGEE8 ON THE EASTEEN SIDE OF THE PALAWAN

PASSAGE.

Having described the dangers and shoals which limit the western boundary
of the Palawan Passage, we shall now proceed with those on the eastern side,
which lie immediately within the edge of the bank of soundings fronting the
island. The coast has been described in pages 539 to 567. The S.W. part
of the bank forms an Elbow on the parallel of nearly 8J° N., from which
Cape Buliluyan, the South point of Palawan, bears E. by S. J S , Balabac
Peak, S.S.E., and Bulanhow Mountain E. by N. J N. The bank also ex-
tends to the northward, fronting the Calamines group.

HEREFORDSHIEE SHOAL.— The ship Rerefordshire, in 1815, struck upon
a reef in lat. 8° 35' N., long. 116° 59' 19" E., about 15 miles to the north-
eastward of the above Elbow ; an occurrence which might have been pre-
vented had the lead been properly attended to, as the danger lies 4 miles
within the edge of the bank. The position of this shoal was not fixed by
H.M.S. Royalist.

NORTH REGENT SHOAL, N.E. by E. | E. 5 miles from the Hereford-
shire, is a dangerous coral patch, 4 cables in extent, having in some places

* Holmes Shoal. — The Rifleman on leaving the Routh Shoal steered a S.E. | S, course
to pass over the doubtful position of Holmes Shoal ; no bottom at 200 fathoms was obtained
on its reputed position, lat. 10° 32' N., long. 117' 59' E., nor was any sign of shoal water
seen in the vicinity ; many others have reported to the same effect. It certainly does not
exist where reported, and there are reasons for believing that the Fairy Queen Shoal,
18 miles to the -westward, is the Holmes Shoal.

DANGEES— PALAWAN PASSAGE. 657

only 13 ft. water on it. It lies 6 miles within the edge of the bank, and 9^
miles from the nearest shore, with the S.W. or Triple Hill S.E. J E. ; summit
of Bulanhow Mountain a little open South of Caneepahan Hill, E. J S. ; and
the Pagoda (page 5^1), E. by N. I N.

N.W. J "W. 4i miles from the North Eegent Shoal, and one mile inside
the edge of the bank, is a coral patch, with 10 fathoms water on it; at 1^
miles to the north-eastward of which, and 2 miles inside the edge of the
bank, is another patch, 3 cables in extent, with only 5 fathoms on it. Also
N.E. by E. ^ E. U miles from the latter, is a 4-fathom patch, 3 cables in
extent ; ard a 7 -fathoms knoll lies half way between the two. The sound-
ings in the vicinity of the two latter shoals are 27 and 20 fathoms, sand and
shells ; the soundings near the former, which are within 2 cables' lengths of
the 10 fathoms, being 60 fathoms, mud, with 74 and 77 fathoms between
them and the edge of the back. Between the North Eegent and the above
shoals the depths are from 30 to 45 fathoms, mud, and sometimes sand and
broken coral.

BREAKER REEF, Ijing N.E. | E. 5 miles from the North Eegent, is 3
cables in extent, and of triangular form, with a few rocks showing at low
water. It is 8 miles inside the edge of the bank, and 7 miles from Cape
Seeacle, the nearest shore, and from it S.W. or Triple Hill bears S.S.E. ;
Caneepahan Hill, S.E. by E. f E. ; and the Pagoda, showing to the south-
ward of a double hill on I-wi-ig range E. J N.

Eocky Ground, where there are only 2J fathoms, extends If mile to the
westward of this reef ; also noi-thward of it 3^ miles there is a patch with
4^ fathoms ; and another N.W. i W. 2^ miles from that, with 6^ fathoms;
the soundings in the neighbourhood being 30 and 40 fathoms, except to the
south-westward of the latter, where there are 16 and 30 fathoms, coral, half
a mile from it.

Paraquas Ridge begins at 11 miles N. ^ W. from the Breaker Eeef, and
extends 8 miles to the N.E., parallel with and a mile inside the edge of the
bank, when it then trends 2 miles to the eastward. It is a long irregular
formed bank of coarse sand and shells, with a very narrow ridge of coral
having gaps through it, and on which ridge the least water found was 5
fathoms ; the average depth being 6, 7, and 9 fathoms, with from 20 to 30
fathoms on the bank. When on the extremes of the bahk the bearings
were as follows : —

S. extreme in N. extreme in

26 fathoms. 19 fathoms.

Bulanhow Mountain - - S.E. i S. - - S. hy E. f E.

Caneepahan Hill - - - S.E. by S. - - S. f E.

Pagoda (Pagoda Cliffs) - - E. by S. i S. - - S.E. easterly.

Mantaleengahan Mountain - E. ^ S. - - E. by S. ~ S.

I. A. 4 J

658 THE CHINA SEA.

The outer edge of this bank is steep-to, having in many places 60 and 70
fathoms within 2 or 3 cables' length of the ridge.

VANGUARD SHOAL is a coral patch 2 cables in extent, with only one
foot water on it, lying E. by S. 5J miles from the shoalest part of the Para-
quas Eidge, and 12 miles off shore, with Caneepahan Hill bearing S. ^ E. ;
Bulanhow S. by E. f E. ; Pagoda S.E. J E. ; and Mantaleengahan E. by
S. i S.

Between this shoal and the Paraquas the soundings are irregular, varying
from 30 to 50 fathoms. To the south-westward of the latter they are from
70 to 80 fathoms, mud, when on the edge ; 20 and 30 fathoms, coarse sand
and broken coral, a mile inside, and 40, 45, and 50 fathoms, mud, when
fairly on the bank.

SCALEBY CASTLE SHOAL is a dangerous coral patch, 2 cables in ex-
tent, with 15 ft. water on it, and 32 fathoms close to its edge, lying in lat.
9° 5' N., long. 117° 17' 11" E., N.E. by N. 7^ miles from the North extreme
of the Paraquas, and only IJ mile within the edge of the bank. From it
Bulanhow bears S. | E. ; Pagoda S.S.E. | E. ; Mantaleengahan, a little
open South of Illaan Hill, S.E. by E. southerly ; Sharp Peak, a little open
South of a high peak on the Mantaleengahan Eange, S.E. by E. f E. ; and
Eran Quoin E. J S. It is distant 15 J miles from Townsend Point, the nearest
shore.

COLLINGWOOD SHOAL, lying N.E. by E. 15i miles from the Scaleby
Castle, and 6 miles inside the edge of the bank, is half a mile in extent, and
on it the least water found was 13 feet, with 26 and 28 fathoms close to its
western or outer edge ; the soundings in the neighbourhood being 40 and
45 fathoms, stiff mud. From this shoal Eran Quoin, the nearest land, bears
S.E. i S. 12 miles ; Pagoda (which is very conspicuous on this bearing over
the low land, and generally discernible when the elevated objects are ob-
scured), S. i W. ; Mantaleengahan, S. by E. f E. ; and Grantung, a high
notch peak (page 542) S.E. i E.

To the N.N.W. of this shoal the edge of the bank projects a little beyond
the general trend, and has on either side a less regular contour with bights,
having soundings of 130 and 140 fathoms within a mile, and in some places
only 3 cables' lengths from the coral patches.

Coral Patches. — From the Scaleby Castle Shoal to the parallel of 9° 30' N.,
a distance of 35 miles, the coral patches on the edge of the bank of sound-
ings are so numerous, that to give a description or bearings for each sepa-
rately, would tend more to confuse than make clear the directions for the
navigation of this part of the channel. Four fathoms is the least water
that has been found on them, and they may generally be distinguished by
an ordinary look-out from the mast-head. It is, however, recommended to
avoid them, as it is impossible to say whether there may or may not be
shoaler parts which have escaped detection. The average depth upon the

DANGEES -PALAWAN PASSAGE. ' 659

patches is from 6 to 7 and 9 fathoms, with 15 and 20 fathoms close to
their edges.

York Breakers. — This is a dangerous coral shoal, in lat. 9° 5 3 J' N., long,
118° 8' 26' E., on which the Countess of London is supposed to have been
wrecked in November, 1816. It is 4 cables in extent, with less than 2 feet
on it at low water, and, except in fine weather, generally breaks. It lies 6^
miles inside the edge of the bank, and is steep-to, having 45 fathoms close
to the edge, the soundings contiguous to it being 40 and 50 fathoms, mud.
When on it, Victoria Peak bears S. by E. ^ E. ; Anipahan, the northernmost
of two sharp peaks, over Long Point, S.E. § E. ; Mount Stavely E. by 8. f
S. ; Mount Peel E. by N. ; and in clear weather Cleopatra Needle will be
seen over Ulugan Bay, nearly in line with Carsoglan Hill E. by N. I N.
(See pp. 546, 547, 551.)

Coral Patches. — There is a coral patch, having only 3 J fathoms on it, lying
S.W. i S. 4 miles from the centre of the York Breakers ; and 1^ mile west-
ward of it is another, with 4 fathoms, the latter lying 3| miles inside the
edge of the bank, with a bank of coarse sand intervening, on which the
average depth is 18 and 20 fathoms.

The soundings in the neighbourhood of these shoals are from 40 to 50
fathoms, mud.

Middle Shoal. — From the York Breakers in the direction of Ulugan Bay,
viz., E. by N. f N., distant 16^ miles, and at 12 miles off shore, is the
Middle Shoal, 2 cables in extent, with 3^ fathoms, coral, upon it, and 12
and 20 fathoms close to its edge. From it Mount Peel bears E. ^ N. ; Ani-
pahan Peak S. I E. ; Mount Staveley S.S.E. J E. ; and the summit of Long
Point S. i W.

Directions. — To the northward of the parallel of 9^ 30' N., the soundings
on the bank'are more regular, and the coral patches lying near the edge of
it, except in the neighbourhood of the York Breakers, have generally more
water on them than those to the southward, seldom having less than 7 and
9 fathoms up to the parallel of 10' 40' N., where they again begin to cluster,
and have as little as 4 fathoms in some places. Vessels, therefore, bound to
Ulugan Bay, or wishing to close with the land for the purpose of working up
in shore, cannot do better than cross the bank about this parallel, with Mount
Peel on an E. i S. or E. by S. bearing, or where it is still clearer on a S.E.
by E. I E. bearing. The bank on this parallel extends 30 miles from the
coast. The first soundings obtained on the edge will generally be 18 or 20
fathoms, coarse sand and broken coral, or perhaps a 9-fathoms cast on coral,
v.hen the bottom will be visible, after which the depth will be more regular,
the 40 and 50 fathoms' casts being chiefly on a stiff muddy bottom ; while
in less water sand and mud, or sand and broken coral, will predominate.
The nearer to the shore the fewer are the patclies, and the more regular the
soundings.

660 THE CHINA SEA.

Crescent Reef, in lat. 10° 40' N., long. 118° 42' 26" E., and upon which
there are 4 fathoms, is a very narrow strip of coral, three-quarters of a mile
in extent, in an E..N.E. and W.S.W. direction, lying 1| mile inside the edge
of the bank, and 22 miles from the nearest shore. There are 40 and 44
fathoms within half a mile of its edge.

When on the centre of the shoal, Sangbowen, the North peak of Ulugan
Bay, bears S. by E. :^ E. ; Cleopatra Needle, S.S.E. ^ E., ; summit of Cac-
nipa or High Island (page 552), S.E. by E. f E. ; highest part of Boayan
Island (page 552), E. by S. J S., easterly; and Mount Capoas (page 554),
E. by N. i N.

The Bank immediately West of this shoal follows apparently the contour
of the coast line, and takes a sudden trend in a westerly direction for about
10 miles, with soundings of 60 and 75 fathoms. To the northward of the
shoal it trends nearly North for 9 miles, and then N.E. 2J miles.

South, 2 1 miles from the Crescent Shoal, there is a 7-fathoms patch, with
soundings of 36 and 40 fathoms close to; and E.N.E, 2^ miles from the
same is another, 3 cables in extent, having only 4J fathoms on it, with
40 fathoms close to the edge. Between these shoals and the shore, the
soundings vary from 30 to 50 fathoms, and the ground appears to be free
from danger,

Capoas Cluster. — In the vicinity of the above patches, and between them
and the Crescent Eeef, the soundings are irregular, where also there appear
to be several shoal spots of 5 and 6 fathoms, all lying from 1 to 6 miles
within the edge of the bank. They are too closely grouped and too far ofif
shore for bearings to be of any advantage to navigate between them.

N. by E. lOi miles from the Crescent Shoal is a 5-fathoms coral patch,
one of the Capoas cluster, lying only 4 cables' lengths inside the edge of the
bank, with upwards of 40 fathoms water close to it ; and also a 6-fathoms
patch 1^ mile S.W. of it. From the former Mount Capoas bears E. ^ S.-
easterly, distant 32| miles ; the northernmost of the Four Peaks on Cleo-
patra Eange S.S.E. ^ E., and the summit of Tapiutan Island (page 562)
N.E. i E.

N.E. by E. 8f miles from the 5-fathoms patch is a 4 J-fathoms coral patch,
apparently the northernmost of the Capoas cluster, 3 cables in extent, with
52 fathoms close to its western edge. It lies li mile inside the edge of the
bank, with Mount Capoas bearing E. by S. J S., Chinongab Peak (page 557)
East-northerly ; and the highest peak of Tapiutan Island N.E. | E.

The least water that has been found on the Capoas cluster is 4 J fathoms.
The soundings in the immediate neighbourhood are 40 and 50 fathoms.
Vessels should keep clear of this part of the bank.

The Bank of Soundings from the 5-fathoms patch above mentioned trends
to the north-eastward for 9 miles, and then nearly North parallel with the
line of coast.

DANGERS -PALAWAN PASSAGE. 661

Erom the northernmost of the Capoas cluster, the bank trends North a
little westerly, preserving a distance of about 30 miles from the shore, to
the parallel of 11° 12' N., when it gradually takes a north-easterly direction,
and does not approach the North point of Palawan nearer than 23 miles.
The bank is steep-to, 40 and 50 fathoms being close to the lOO-fathoms line.
Here and there it has comparatively shoal ridges (15 to 20 fathoms) of
coarse sand and broken coral, on which there are some 7 3 and 9 fathoms
patches of coral lying close to the edge. The northernmost and shoalest
of these that has been discovered, and on which there are 7 fathoms, lies 1^
miles inside the edge of the bank, in lat. 11° 28' 45" N., long. 119° 1' E.
When on it the North Hill on Palawan bears E. by S. -easterly ; West
shoulder of the High Table Range (page 566) S.E. by E. ^ E. ; Cadlao or
Table-top Island (page 564) S.E. f E. ; and the Horn on Matinloc Island
(page 562) S.E. J S. It is 20 miles distant from the nearest part of the
island, and the depths in the vicinity vary from 20 to 40 fathoms.

The nature of the bottom near the patches is usually fine sand, but when
fairly on the bank, especially off the North part of Palawan, stiff green mud
predominates. The bank farther to the northward does not appear to be so
steep as that abreast of the island, soundings with 160 fathoms having been
found nearly 4 miles outside the lOO-fathoms line.

The foregoing pages, relating to the shoals and dangers in the China Sea,
contain descriptions of those which lie on the south-eastern verge of the
main route, along the continental side, or those which form the north-
western side of the Palawan route, which have been found by the recent
examination to be free from danger.

In former times, the imperfect observations of passing vessels, and the too
frequent very desultory notices of presumed discovery of dangers, caused the
charts to be embarrassed with a multitude of reefs which have no existence,
as has been shown.

But in the space between the two channels, as they may be termed, along
the Asiatic side, and that parallel with Palawan, there still remains a
labyrinth of clusters, shoals, and reefs, in many cases of doubtful existence,
but in more of doubtful position, for this area has up to the present period
been unsurveyed, and *^ ought lo he avoided hj all 7iavigators.^'' This truth
cannot be too strongly impressed upon all, for although it is possible that a
ship might pass unharmed through this region of dangers, coralline, reefs,
and sand-banks, yet the risk is very great, and the greatest caution will not
be an excuse for venturing into such imminent danger.

The ensuing enumeration and description of shoals lying out of the proper
track of ships, is therefore added with a view to making these remarks com-
plete, rather as an object of utility.

662 THE CHINA SEA.

SHOALS NEAE THE MAIN EOUTE.

The Bombay Castle, Orleana, Johnson, and Kingston Shoals of former
charts, were found by Commander Ward, in H.M. surveying vessel Rifleman,
to be patches on the edge of the Eifleman Bank, described on page 622.

OWEN SHOAL, in lat. 8° 8' N., long. UP 69' E., was discovered in 1835,
by Mr. Owen, commanding the ship David Scott, who had soundings of 5 to
4^, and one cast of 3f fathoms in passing over it, a little past noon, steering
S.S.E., and at 1 p.m. cleared the shoal, having then no bottom. The shoal
appeared to be about 2 miles in extent, consisting of black and white
speckled coral, in a state of rapid accretion, apparently by the vitality and
energy of the madrepores, observed in recent formations of large pieces of
coral brought up by the lead. The patches of speckled coral were bright
and alarming while on the shoal, and although no breakers were perceived,
as the sea was then very smooth, yet with a heavy swell, the sea probably
rises in rollers over the shoal patches, when a large ship would be liable to
strike on some of them.

AMBOYNA CAY was surveyed by Commander Ward, H.M.S. Rifleman,
in 1864. It is in lat. 7° 51f' N., long. 112° 55' E., and is the dry portion of
a small coral bank running N.E. and S.W. The cay is at the south-west
extreme of the bank, and is 150 yards long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., 124 yards
wide, and 8 feet above high water mark. It is surrounded by coral ledges,
some of which dry at low water, but in no instance do they extend as far as
2 cables' lengths from high water mark ; the sea breaks heavily upon these
ledges in any swell,

About^two-thirds of the rock forming the cay is covered with a rich coat
of guano, and in some places 4 feet deep, the deposit of myriads of boobies,
petrels, and other marine birds ; the rest of the cay is comminuted coral.
A large pile, composed of all the drift-wood to be collected on the cay, a few
lumps of coral, &c., was erected in the centre, and can be seen as a sail at a
distance of from 5 to 7 miles in clear weather.

The bank, to the north-eastward of the cay, forms a very narrow ridge a
mile long by 2 cables wide. The soundings upon it are about 4 fathoms
Irom a quarter of a mile from the reef until close to the end of the spit,
when the water deepens rapidly from 9 to 17 fathoms, and then dips into 67
fathoms, no bottom ; while at a distance less than a third of a mile, no
bottom was obtained with 220 fathoms of line. There is no danger on the
ridge if vessels do not get into less than 4 fathoms, although from the exces*
Give clearness of the water the bottom looks alarmingly close to the ship's
keel ; the ledges surrounding the islet are steep-to.

Anchorage on the ridge in 5 fathoms, in the S.W. monsoon, was obtained

LIZZIE WEBBER AND STAGS SHOALS. 663

by the Rifleman, fairly sheltered from the prevailing wind. Fish appeared
to be abundant, but only a few were caught.

Tides. — By observations at Amboyna Cay two days before neaps, the
maximum rate of tide was 1.4 knots per hour, the flood stream setting about
N. by W, the ebb West ; flood commencing at 11 p.m., and the ebb at 6 a.m.
Rise and fall doubtful.

LIZZIE WEBBER SHOAL.— Mr. Dallas reported that while returning in
a small vessel, the Lizzie Webber, to the wreck of the Fiery Cross (in 1860),
they struck upon a reef in lat. 8° 4' N., long. 113= 12' E. The reef, which
was very little under water, is a narrow strip of sand and coral lying in a
N.E. and S.W. direction.

This shoal is supposed to extend about 25 miles to the north-eastward of
the above position, as reported by Mr. P. Orr, commanding the barque
Canada, which was wrecked on it on the 24th December, 1864, at 12.30 a.m.

STAGS SHOAL, placed in 8° 24' N., 112° 57' E., was reported in 1802 by
Mr. Trinder, commanding the brig Amboyna, as follows : — " The North end
of the shoal extended S.E. and S.S.W. in form of a triangle, with rocks
above water and breakers in various parts, the intermediate space appa-
rently very shoal, and the southern extremity could not be discerned from
the mast-head."

The Rifleman, from a position 5 miles North of that given above, was
steered E.S.E. 12 miles, when she was in the latitude of the shoal, and 11
miles East of it, here no bottom was obtained at 200 fathoms ; a West course
was then steered for 21 miles, and again a S.E. by E. course until the
longitude of the shoal was reached. Soundings, with 40 fathoms of line,
were tried for, as quickly as possible, on the different courses, and on the
spot assigned to the danger, bottom (dark oaze) was brought up from a depth
of 1,085 fathoms.

The Rifleman had previously passed over the position, and H.M.S. Reynard
also steamed about the locality, and it is certain from the result of these
examinations that no shoal exists within 10 miles of the position assigned.
The soundings obtained in the Rifleman in former years indicate that the
shoal does not exist to the westward, — and it seems probable that the danger
seen from the Amboyna was part of the Lizzie Webber or Canada Shoal, — ■
25 miles E.S.E. of the position ascribed to the Stags, — and this is verified
by the fact of the Amboyna Cay being found 11 miles farther West than
reported by Mr. Trinder.

Pearson Reef, in lat. 8° 56' N., long. 113° 44' E., was seen in 1843 by
Mr. Pearson, commanding the Bahamian, who reported that he passed about
3 miles to windward of an extensive shoal in the above position, about 2
miles long in a North and South direction, with some rocks above water on
the southern edsre.

664 THE CHINA SEA.

Cornwallis South Reef is a doubtful danger, placed on the chart in lat.
8° 50' N., long. 114° liy E., and shown as being 3 or 4 miles in extent.

Ganges Reef is another doubtful shoal, 32 miles to the northward of
Cornwallis South Eeef, in lat. 9° 22' N., long. 114° 11' E.

Sin Co we Island is reported by the fishermen to lie in lat. 9° 41' N.,
long. 114° 21' E. (approximate).

Fancy Wreck Shoal is a doubtful danger, 30 miles north-eastward of the
Ganges Reef, in lat. 9° 43' N., long. 114° 41' E.

Cornwallis Reef, also doubtful, is shown on the chart as an extensive reef
with rocks, 20 miles to the north-westward of the last-named shoal, in lat.
10" 0' N., long. 114° 23' E.

Pennsylvania, one of the many doubtful shoals, is placed in lat. 10° 0' N.,
long. 115° 10' E. ; and about 20 miles N.N.W. of it, in lat. 10° 18' N., long.
115° 4' E.. is another doubtful Granges reef. About 14 miles N.N.E. of this
latter, in lat. 10° 32' N., long. 115° 8' E., is Ganges North Reef, also a doubt-
ful danger.

Third Thomas Shoal (1839) is placed on the chart in lat. 10° 52' N., long.
115° 55' E., and shown as being 3 or 4 miles in extent.

Flat Island, in lat. 11° 1' N., long. 115° 40' E., is said to be low and flat,
surrounded with breakers, and having a reef projecting from its N.E. side.
It is marked doubtful in the charts, but it is said that it has been seen by
several ships. This is the northernmost danger in this part of the China
Sea, and lies nearly midway between the North Danger Eeef and the north-
easternmost of the dangers bounding the Palawan channel.

SHOALS NEAR THE PALAWAN ROUTE.

Swallow Reef, seen by the Swalloio in 1801, lies 28 miles N.N.E. from
Charlotte Reef. It is formed of a belt of coral surrounding a shallow
basin, is 3j miles long, E. | N., and W. f S., and IJ mile wide. At its
eastern part are some rocks from 5 to 10 ft. above high water, the highest
of which is in 7° 23' N., 113° 50' 23" E. ; there are also one or two stones on
the south-eastern side which show at high water ; the West end terminates
in a sharp point.

ARDASIER SANK, lying N.E. of Swallow Reef, is very extensive, and
has only received a partial examination. It is probable that the South Ar-
dasier, 7° 34' N., 114° 9 E., Gloucester, 7° 50' N., 114° 15' E., and North
Ardasier Breakers, 7° 56', long. 114° 2', as also the breakers seen by Mr.
Dallas in 1860, in lat. 7° 38', long. 113° 54' E., are shoal patches on diflPerent
parts of one large bank. The south-eastern side, which forms one of the
nort^iern limits of the approach to the Palawan passage, has been surveyed
in the Rifleman. The general direction of this part is N.E. by E. ^ E. and
S.W. by W. ^ W. for a distance of 20 miles, but the outline of the edge is

INVESTIGATOR SHOAL. 665

very irregular. Several shoal patches of 3 to 5 fathoms were found near the
edge; the shoalest spot discovered had only 2^ fathoms water; this last is
in 7° 36' 37" N., 114^^ 10' 10" E., very close to the position ascribed to the
South Ardasier Breakers.

INVESTIGATOR SHOAL, examined by Captain Crawford, of the Indian
Navy surveying ship Investigator, in 1813, is very extensive; its western
point being in lat. 8° 5' N., long. 114° 31' E., and its eastern extremity in
lat. 8^ 10' N., long. 114° 50' E. It is about 4 miles in breadth, North and
South.

Cay Marino is a doubtful shoal, jjlaced upon the chart in lat. 8° 30' N.,
long. 114° 21' E.

S.W. and N.E. Shea Shoals were seen by Mr. Shea, commanding the
Buchinghamshire, in 1833. The first shoal appeared to consist of two reefs of
rocks, with high breakers, extending IJ mile E. by S. and W. by N., and
half a mile North and South, the centre of which was found to be in lat.
8° N., long. 114° 55' E., by observations of sun, moon, and stars.

The other shoal, seen on the following morning, appeared to consist of
two dry white banks, with a ridge of rocks extending from them to the
westward about 2 miles, which was considered to be in lat. 8° 30' N., long.
115° 19' E.

Glasgow Bank. — Mr. Baird, commanding the ship Glasgow, is said to
have discovered a bank in lat. S' 39' N., long. 115° 31' E. It apparently
extended 3 miles to its N.E. edge, and was composed of sand and rocky
peaks, in some places 21 to 32 ft. above the sea.

Alicia Annie Shoal. — Captain R. Kirby reports having seen a reef in lat.
9° 25' N., long. 115' IQi' E., of lagoon form, 3 miles in length, N.W. by N.
and S.E. by S. There is a slight rise of sand hill at its N.W. end, and a
reef of rocks at its S.E. extreme, with several detached rocks around. There
was a portion of wreck on the S.E. end, and a junk with four boats close by ;
inside the lagoon there was a boat apparently fishing. Soundings were tried
for at a quarter of a mile from the S.E. end, but no bottom with 100 fathoms
of line. First Thomas Shoal was made the next day, and the chronometer
showed it to be 2 miles "West of its position on the chart.

First and Second Thomas Shoals appear by the chart to have been seen
in 1839. The first is placed in lat. 9° 18' N., long. 115° 53' E. ; the second
is shown as an extensive shoal, 9 or 10 miles long North and South, and 4
miles broad ; its southern part is in lat. 9° 41' N., long. 115° 47' E.

Investigator N.E. Shoal, in lat. 9° 15' N., long. 116= 24' E., is shown on
the chart as having some rocks awash upon it.

Pennsylvania and Sabina Shoals. — One of the doubtful Pennsylvania
Shoals is placed upon the chart about 17 or 18 miles northward of the N.E.
Investigator, in lat. 9° 31' N., long. 116° 23' E., and there are three other

I. A. 4 Q

666 THE CHINA SEA.

patches of that name, the first in lat. 9° 47' N., long. 116° 44' E., the second
about 4 miles, and the third about 10 miles to the north-westward from it.

The Sabina Shoal, placed upon the chart in lat. 9°43'N., long. 116° 34^' E.,
was discovered by Mr. French, commanding the Sabina, of New York, in
1836, who saw "rocks with the sea breaking tremendously over them."
Mr. French thought it was one of the doubtful Pennsylvania Shoals, which
in all probability it is.

Mr. E. Eouth, commanding the Bombay/, with the Henry Clay in company,
sighted breakers which his observations placed nearly in the position of the
Sabina Shoal.

Lord Auckland Shoal appears on the chart as a bank with 8 to 80 fa-
thoms water over it. The 8-fathom part is in lat. 10° 21' N., long. 117° 17'
E. ; close to the eastward of the bank there is no bottom at ] 00 fathoms.

OTHER PENNSYLVANIA SHOALS — BROWN SHOALS.— Another
Pennsylvania Shoal is placed on the chart in lat. 10° 24' N., long. 116° 33'
E. ; and another, the Pennsylvania North Eeef, in lat. 10° 49' N., long. 116°
54' E. The positions of these are very doubtful, and it is probable that the
shoals seen by Mr. Brown, commanding the Arabian, in 1838, were the same.
The following is Mr. Brown's account of them : —

" On the 8th of January, 1838, on our passage to China by the Palawan,
standing to the northward, wind N.E., at 10.30 a.m. passed close to wind-
ward of a coral patch, with apparently 5 or 6 fathoms water over it, blowing
fresh and a good deal of sea ; could not lower a boat to determine. It lies
in lat. 10° 30' N., long. 116° 41 E.

** Same day, lying up East on the port tack, at 3.30 p.m., came suddenly
into shoal water. Saw the coral rocks very distinctly under the ship's bottom.
Hove the lead over, first cast had 5 fathoms, and mark above water for a
few casts. Put the helm up and run to the southward for a few minutes,
until we gradually deepened to 30 fathoms, no bottom. "We appeared to be
on the southern edge of an extensive coral flat, extending N.E. and N.W. of
us some miles. By sights taken immediately we came off the shoal ; this
part of it lies in long. 117° 0' E., or 4' East of the Bombay Eeef, which we
left yesterday ; lat. 10° 35' N., which we observed at noon.

** The following day at 9 a.m., standing to the northward, with a fresh
wind from N.E., and a heavy head sea, came again into shoal water ; coral
rocks seen very close to our keel, but before we could get the lead forward
we had passed over the ridge into 28 fathoms. From 9'' to IP 30™ a.m. ran
8 miles on a N.N.W. course in irregular coral soundings, least water, by
the lead, 1 1 fathoms, but at times we apparently had much less from the
proximity of the coral rocks. We entered upon the flat in lat. 10° 39' N.,
long. 117° 24' E. ; came off in lat. 10° 46' N., long. 117° 19' E. The longi-
tude computed from a series of sights before and after noon ; the latitude by
a good meridian altitude, four observers, and clear weather. In passing

SEAHOESE OR SOUTH SHOAL. 667

over this bank the water appeared very shoal East and West of us, lying in
ridges in that direction."

Amy Douglas Shoal. — The Amy Douglas, commanded by Mr. Pensberry
— under the Siamese flag — on her passage up the Palawan, passed over a
shoal in lat. 10° 52' N., long. 116" 25' E. On February 12th, 1860, at noon,
had good observations, and noticed about that time the water discoloured
for about a mile on each side of the ship. Dropped the lead over the side
and found 14 fathoms. Mr. Pensberry is of opinion that the water was much
more shallow to the westward of the ship.

Fairy Queen Shoal, having 9 fathoms water over it, is placed on the
chart in lat. 10° 39' N., long. 117° 38' E.

Coral Bank, — H.M.S. Rifleman, when proceeding from Loai-ta Island
(page 628), round the northern edge of the Archipelago, obtained soundings
of 47 fathoms on a coral bank in lat. 11° 28' N., long. 116° 46' E. ; steermg
E. by S. J S. 3 miles farther had 44 fathoms, and shortly afterwards 12
fathoms on a small coral patch in lat. 11° 26' N., long. 116° 53' E. Con-
tinuing the same course, the depths were 42 fathoms for a distance of 5
miles; at 8 miles 125 fathoms, and at 14 miles 175 fathoms. A few miles
farther on no bottom was reached with 200 fathoms of line.

SEAHORSE or ROTJTH SHOAL was examined by the Rifleman. It lies
at the N.E. angle of the archipelago of reefs, and forms the N.E. limit of the
Palawan Passage. It is a pear-shaped coral bank, 8 miles in length, N.N.E.
f E. and S.S.W. | W., 41 miles in breadth at the North end and 3 miles at
the South end ; it is not dangerous, the least water upon it being 4 J fathoms,
which was found on a 5-fathom patch, about three-quarters of a mile in
extent, at the North extreme of the bank in lat 10° 50' N., long. 117° 46' E.
Nothing less than 6 fathoms were obtained on any of the other patches sur-
rounding the lagoon ; the depths in the lagoon vary from 17 to 19 fathoms
at the shoal edges to 35 fathoms in the centre.

The northern part of this shoal was passed over by the Seahorse in 1786,
and the southern part by Mr. Routh, commanding the Bomhay, in 1835.

A Sandy Shoal is placed upon the chart in lat. 11° 2' N., long. 117° 37' E.

Templer Bank.— The Minerva, commanded by Mr. Templer, passed over
a bank to the north-westward of the Seahorse Bank, in November, 1835,
having from 10 to 17 fathoms water on it. The bank appeared to extend
about 4 miles North and South, and as no discoloured water was seen to the
eastward, but several apparently shoal patches were perceived to the west-
ward, it is supposed that the ship passed over the eastern part of the bank.
The centre of the bank is in lat. 11° 7' N., long. 117'' 13' E.

PART HI.

THE EASTERN PASSAGES.

The descriptions and directions given in the foregoing pages have been de-
voted to those coasts and channels leading towards the Coast of China,
which lie to the westward of Borneo, and which are approached by the Straits
of Malacca and Sunda, and are therefore generally known as the "Western
Passages.

The Eastern Passages, which remain to be described, are those to the
eastward of Borneo, and may be taken either by the Strait of Sunda, and
passing eastward through the Java Sea, or else by one or other of the straits
between the islands East of Java.

In earlier times these various routes were known by different names, of
which Pitt's Passage, or that which passes East of Gilolo, between it and
the West end of New Guinea, may be cited as the most generally known,
and this for a reason happily non-existent now — that it avoided those straits
and islands subject to the Dutch.

Our charts of these passages are very much more imperfect than those of
the portions of the Indian Archipelago to the northward" and westward, and
this consideration should have much weight with the commander in the
choice of a route.

Till recent years the British charts in general use, such as those drawn up
by the late Captain Horsburgh, were very unsafe guides, and it was main-
tained by the Dutch in Java that they caused many disasters. This obloquy
ia now in a great measure removed ; for, however imperfect the charts of the
eastern parts of the Archipelago may still be, the labours and observations
of many British and Dutch officers have been combine.d for their improve-
ment, although no proper and systematic survey has been made of the entire
area. Prominent among these stands the " Netherlands Commissie tot het
verbetering der Zeekarten in de Oost Indie," with which the name of the late
Lieutenant Peter Baron Mellvill van Carnbee, may be associated. These
have given to the nautical world a very much more perfect representation of

THE EASTEEN PASSAGES. 669

tlie navigation of the south-eastern portion of the Indian Archipelago than
was formerly attainable.

These charts were published chiefly by the respected and ancient firm of
Wed. Q". Hulst Van Keulen, of Amsterdam, and have since been copied and
improved by our Admiralty and others.

In the future descriptions of the channels leading towards China, we com-
mence with the great island of Java, which stands as a rampart between the
Indian Ocean and the Archipelago, and then proceed with the islands and
straits to the eastward and northward, in due order, as far as the irregular
distribution of the islands will permit.

CHAPTER XVI.

JAVA, AND THE JAVA SEA.

JAVA.

The Island of Java is beyond all comparison the most important portion of
the Indian Archipelago. Its fertility, its population, their civilization and
industry, place it far in advance of all surrounding islands.

It is about 575 miles long, with a breadth varying from 48 to 117 miles,
the area being computed at 37,029 square geographical miles, or about one-
third larger than Ireland, but it supports a population twice as numerous.
It may be compared in form, size, and position to Cuba, but then it has ten
times the number of inhabitants.

It is the principal colonial possession of the Dutch nation, and its governor
is paramount over all other of the Dutch possessions in the East. It claims
the singular merit among Oriental countries under European subjection of
producing a considerable revenue to the Netherlands Government. What-
ever opinions may be held concerning the restrictive and engrossing policy
of the Dutch, the facts of the great increase of the productiveness, the ex-
ports, and the population, stand as an evidence that the systems there
carried out have been beneficial to the inhabitants and to the home govern-
ment.

A century ago the population of Java and the adjacent island of Madura
was estimated at 2,000,000. At the end of the last century it had risen to
3,660,000. In 1815, during the temporary occupation by the English, the
census gave 4,615,270 inhabitants. The Dutch have, since the restoration
of the island, made many enumerations, and each census has shown a large
and steady increase. In 1845 the population of both islands was 9,530,781.
On December, 31st, 1872, the census gave 17,298,200 as the number of in-
habitants in Java and Madura. This included 28,926 Europeans, and 185,758
Chinese settlers. It is thus one of the most densely populated countries in
the world, and this is more apparent if the large area occupied by its lofty
and inaccessible mountains is taken into accouut.

ISLAND OF JAVA. 671

The material prosperity of its people has also advanced with the increase
of their numbers, and the great exports of coffee, sugar, rice, «S;c., subject to
a heavy export duty, brings in, as before said, an ample revenue for its local
government, and also leaves a large amount for the home exchequer. Java
is therefore much more important to HoUand than India is to the British
nation ; and it is looked upon as their promised land ; *' Java is ons Kaniian"
has been said of it by a Dutch writer.

A ridge of lofty mountains runs from West to East throughout its entire
length. The more lofty of the conical peaks are generally visible from sea,
and of these there are about 33 which rise above 5,000 ft. above that level.
Of these, Salah, 7,200 ft., and Pangeranga, 9,663 ft., in the rear of Batavia .
Gedee, or Tagal Peak, 11,300 ft., between Tagal and Pekalongan ; Soembing,
11,000 ft. ; and Merapie, 9,290 ft., near Samarang; Japara Peak, 4,600 ft. ;
Laicoe, 10,700 ft. ; Ardjoena, 12,000 ft. ; and Semiroe, the loftiest summit,
12,400 ft., near the Strait of Madura, are the most noticeable for their eleva-
tion. They all appear to have been formed as active volcanoes, and the
hidden fires are in some cases scarcely extinct, but none are now in activity.

The heights of these mountains have been observed by Lieuts. Eietveld,
Escher, Eschauzier, Staring, Brutel de la Eiviere, and Melvill van Carnbee,
of the Dutch navy.

They are a continuation of that volcanic band alluded to in an early part
of this volume as encircling that vast area limited by Malaya, Sumatra, Java,
and the islands East of it, Celebes, the Philippines, Japan, Kamtchatka,
along which volcanic agency is more or less evident or active.

The South coast of Java is abrupt and iron bound, affording but very little
shelter, and being a lee shore, beaten by the whole force of the waves from
the Indian Ocean, is carefully to be avoided ; but it is free from storms. The
chief ports and settlements are on the northern side, along which are large
plains of unsurpassed fertility, between the mountains and the sea.

At the principal ports the Government have established very ordinary
means for refitting. The open ports (1870) in the island for import and ex-
port trade are Batavia, Samarang, Sourabaya, Cheribon, Passoeroean, and
Tjilatjap. For export only, the following ports are open in Java, Anjer,
Bantam, Indramayoe, Tagal, Pekalongan, Eembang, Probolingo, Bezoekie,
Panaroekan, Banjoewangie, Pangool, Patjitan, and Wyncoopsbay. There
are railways running inland from Batavia and Samarang, and along the
entire length of the island is a fine road, 800 miles in extent, made by
General Daendels. There is electric telegraphic communication throughout
the island and with all parts of the world, as described with Batavia here-
after.

The island lies between the wind systems of the two hemispheres, and
thus enjoys an immunity from those storms and cyclones which devastate the
countries in higher latitudes ; but it is very moist, and to this fact it probably

672 ISLAND OF JAVA.

owes much of its fertility. Formerly it was considered to be very unliealthy,
but later experience and an improved mode of living, adopted by Europpans,
have shown that it is not more deleterious to the white man than any other
tropical country, and it has besides the advantage of affording lofty sites for
residence and sanatoria.

Although no very systematic and minute survey of its coast has been made
by the Dutch Government, yet the zeal of the officers in its large fleet, well
directed by the Commission for the improvement of the Indian charts, have
given us tolerably perfect delineations of its shores and harbours. The work
was carried on under the orders of Rear- Admiral Lucas, the commandant of
the Dutch navy, by the officers before mentioned. The first chart was pub-
lished in Amsterdam, in 1842, under the authorship of the late Mr. Jacob
Swart and Lieut. P. Baron Melvill van Carnbee. To accompany this chart,
they drew up the " Zeemans-Gids voor de Yaarwaters rondom het Eiland
Java," from which the following directions are derived, as translated into
English by Lieut. G. Tichelman.

A ship bound to Batavia, being abreast of St. Nicholas Point, ought to
steer E. J S., or E. by S., to pass Bantam Bay, mid-channel between Babi
Island and the reef which projects from Pontang Point; with this course,
Menscheneter Island and Great Kombuis will be seen ahead, and the Hoorn
Islands in a N.E. or E.N.E. direction, visible in clear weather at the distance
of 3^ or 4 leagues. The best track in the night is to keep in 14 or 15 fa-
thoms, taking care not to borrow under 1 1 fathoms toward the Java shore,
nor to deepen beyond 18 fathoms in the offing. It would, however, be rather
imprudent for strangers in these waters to keep under sail all night; it
would be better to anchor, as moderate depths are found from here to
Batavia Eoads. The tides set generally East and West along this part of
the coast.

Pulo Babi lies due North from Pontang Point, and according to the trigo-
nometrical survey of Lieutenant Staring, D.R.N., in 1841, the centre of the
island is in 5° 48' 45" S., and 106° 16' 13" E. It extends 2^ miles East and
West, and a mile North and South ; it is steep-to on all sides, except on the
E.S.E., where a reef projects to a distance of 3 cables' lengths, and off the
West point, at a distance of 1 J cables' lengths, are some rocks. Half a mile
West of the island there are from 17 to 15 fathoms ; along the South side
2 i to 17 fathoms; on the East side 20 fathoms; and along the North side
from 25 to 11 fathoms water. In some old charts a rock is placed 4 miles
S.E. from Babi, called Cheribon, but apparently does not exist, as Lieutenant
Staring carefully examined the place without finding it ; and the native
fishermen also, who are very well acquainted with the existing dangers,
declared that they knew of no such rock.

The BAY of BANTAM is about 8 miles East and West, and 6 miles
North and South, and contains one large and several small islands, but no

BANTAM. 673

hidden dangers, consequently there is no difficulty in navigating it. Paniang
or Panjang, the name of the large island, is 2 miles in diameter, and lies in
the western part of the bay. The island is bold to approach on all sides, ex-
cept off the South point ; the passage on the West side of Paniang is also
navigable, and is 1^ mile wide, and has variable depths from 5 to 9 fathoms.
South by West from its S.W. point a small rock lies at a cable's length off,
with 6 ft. water. S.E. of Paniang, and very near it, there are two small
islands, the reefs from which project to the southward half a mile, and con-
sequently ought not to be approached within that distance. W.N.W. from
the North side of Paniang, close under the Java shore, there are two small
islands, of which the largest is called Pulo Kalie ; and more toward St. Ni-
cholas Point, li mile E. by S. from it, lies a third island, called Saliera,
sometimes called Rohhen Island, and in old charts Notendop, between which
and the two former may be found the place called Pangorian. S.W. of Pa-
niang, in Bantam Bay, there are three small islands, under the Java shore,
the northernmost of which may be approached very near, there being at a
distance of 2 or 3 cables' lengths 4 and 4f fathoms at low water, and this
same depth will be found near the two southernmost islands at the distance
of 5 or 6 cables' lengths, shoaling to 3|- and 2 fathoms when approaching
them. South of Paniang, 2 or 2J miles distant, lies a group of islands,
called Eoehor, Karang-Padang, Lima-jamhoe, and Lima-hlappa, in old charts
called the Butch Churchyard. These islands are surrounded by reefs of 1 and
2 cables' lengths in extent ; and between them, as well as West from them,
and close in-shore, there are several coral banks, for which reason it is ad-
visable, when entering the bay by the West channel, and having passed
Paniang, to steer about S.E. in 7, 5, and 4|- fathoms, along the North side
of the northernmost island of this group, to the anchorage. Eastward of
Paniang there are two islands, called Mujang Besar and Mvjang Eetjil (or
Pamoejang, or Iladu), with a free passage on both sides ; but that between
these islands and Paniang is preferable, having regular depths from 9 to 5
fathoms, and shoaling towards the anchorage to 4 fathoms. Both the Mu-
jang Islands may be approached very near, being clear of danger; and when
passing to the eastward of them, the best way is to keep closer to them than
to the Java shore, within a mile of which, in some places, there are but 3
fathoms at low water, while in the other channels from 3J to 5 fathoms will
be found.

BANTAM, once the native emporium of these seas, has been reduced from
its former importance to an insignificant place. It is now an open port for
exports only. The Dutch Government, gradually increasing in their power
and authority over the province whose name it bears, finally deposed the last
of its kings in 1843, and banislied him to Surabaya.

The anchorage for large ships is W. S.W. or S.W. from Mujang Ketjil,
I. A.. 4k.

674 JAVA.

and South from the East point of Paniang in 3f to 41 fathoms depth at low
water, and small vessels will find a good road in 3 fathoms, a mile distant'
from the beach, and half a mile East of Lima-klappa Island. Very near the
shore are the two Dua Islands, with the depth of 2 or 3 fathoms near them.
The flagstaff of the fort is in 6° 1' 39" S., and 106° 8' 48" E., according to the
trigonometric survey of Lieutenant Staring, in 1841. The mouth of the
river is closed by a mud-bank, upon which there are 2 fathoms water at the
distance of a mile, and 1 fathom at the distance of 2 or 3 cables' lengths
from it. In a S.S.W. direction from the centre of the bay stands the con-
spicuous hill of Pinang, or Mount Bantam, which is a good mark for vessels
entering the bay. The mean rise and fall of tide is 2 or 3 ft., and at springs
5 ft., but with neap tides no rise is perceptible.

PONTANG POINT, forming the East side of Bantam Bay, is bluff, but a
reef projects from it IJ mile. This reef, which has been represented in
former charts much too large, is steep-to, as the depths decrease speedily
from 8 and 9 to 3, \h, and 1 fathom, and stretches farthest in a N. by E.
direction from Pontang Point, where the limit of 3 fathoms lies about East
from the North point of Paniang Island. "When passing along this point it
is advisable not to come nearer than 12 or 11 fathoms, before the East point
of Babi Island is well to the westward of N. by W. ^ "W. The northern-
most point of the reef of Pontang lies 3 miles N.E. by E. from the point it-
self, and S. f E. from the East point of Babi.

Between Pontang Point and Kaik Point the coast forms a bight, and in
the middle of this bight are situated the village and the river of Tanara, from
whence a reef with a tongue, projects 3 miles off. Outside of this tongue
the depths of 2 and 3 fathoms increase speedily to 7 fathoms and more ; and
the northernmost point of the tongue, in 3 fathoms, at low water, bears
E. f S. from Pontang Point, and W. \ S. from Menscheneter Island. In this
bight, close in-shore, lies the small island of Tianhier, in a N.N.E. direction,
from which, at half or 1 mile distance, there are two coral banks above
water.

MENSCHEN-ETER ISLAND (Man-eater, or Cannibal) is 3 miles north-
ward of Tanjong Kaik, and on the West side of the reef which projects from
it. The island is low, covered with trees, and little more than one-third of
a mile in diameter. It is surrounded by a narrow reef which is very steep-
to, and between it and the end of the reef, there is a very narrow channel,
fit for proas, with soundings from 4 to 11 fathoms.

A lighthouse is proposed on Menscheneter Island. It will show a flashing
light, visible 16 miles off.

Menscheneter Eeef projects North of Kaik Point, and its northern edge
consists of a steep sand-bank with rocky patches, called by the natives Karang
Walla. Off the North end of the reef, in 5 fathoms water, and only 2 cables
North of a depth of 2 fathoms, is placed a white buoy, surmounted by a ball,

BATAVIA. 675

N.E. by E. I E., 7 cables from the North end of Menscheneter Island, and
N. l W. 3i miles from the extremity of Kaik Point. Vessels should keep
well outside the position of this buoy at night, as the depths decrease so
suddenly from 7 and 5 fathoms.

Cheribon Rock, mentioned on page 672, is now placed on the charts 4-^
miles from the East end of Babie Island.

Strnisvogel, or Ostrich Bank, consists of five difi'erent coral rocks, stretch-
ing North and South about a mile, and East and West a little more than
half a mile ; on the shoalest place there are 2 fathoms at low water, but close
to the bank 13 and 17 fathoms; and therefore it should be approached with
great caution. It bears N.W. | N. from the middle of Menscheneter, and
S. J W. from the West point of Great Tidong, the westernmost of the Hoorn
Islands, A white Herbert's buoy, surmounted by a (/lobe, is placed on
Karang-Poerak, the North end of the reef; and an iron beacon, with a cone,
stands on Karang-Bezoar, the South end of the bank.

Tangara Rock rises suddenly out of 13 and 14 fathoms, mud, having upon
its shoalest spot, 3 fathoms, a beacon with a triangle, bearing N. | E. from the
middle of Menscheneter, and W.N.W. | W. from the middle of Great Kom-
buis. Halfway between Struisvogel and Tangara, or H mile N.W. i W.
from the latter, there is another small coral rock, called the Zaut ; the least
depth upon it is 3| fathoms at low water, and close to it from 12 to 17 fa-
thoms, soft ground.

The CHANNELS which lead towards Batavia from the westward are two
in number, the Inner Westerly Channel (het Westelijk Binnen-Vaarwater), and
the Outer Westerly Chamiel (het Westerlijk Buiten-Vaarwater).

The INNER CHANNEL, which appears to be most used, passes between
the North end of Menscheneter Island and reef and the Kombuis Islands,
then between Middelburg Island and the Ontong Java Reef, and westward
of Onrust and Kuiper Island.

The OUTER CHANNEL runs to the northward of the Kombuis, Middel-
burg, and Amsterdam Islands, and then between Eotterdara and Haarlem,
and afterwards between the white buoy on Eynland and the black buoys on
Neptunus, Pas-op, and Pipa Reefs.

The INNER or Dutch Channel may, with a good look-out, be considered
as free from dangers. To proceed through it, a ship should pass between
Menscheneter Island and the Great Kombuis, due attention being paid to
Struisvogel, Laut, and Tongara Rock, and not to borrow too much on the
Java shore toward the buoy off Menscheneter Reef. A good berth should
also be given to the Great Kombuis, as Pedynab Beefs project to a consider-
able distance from its western point. Upon the western point of these reefs
is a blade buoy, with a ball, from which the South point of Great Kombuis
bears S.E. by E. f E., and its N.W. point E.N.E. \ E., about a mile distant.
Between this reef and that of the Menscheneter the channel is, in its narrow-

676 JAVA.

est part, 2 miles wide, with depths from 8 to 12 fathoms. Between Kaik
Point and Ontong Eeef there is a bight, in which the depths decrease regu-
larly towards the Java shore, except near a rocky shoal oflF Serang Point,
stretching East and West 1 mile, and having in some places 2J and 2 fa-
thoms water ; this shoal bears South from G-roote (Great) Kombuis, E. by N.
from Kaik Point, and S.E. by E. from Menscheneter Island, the depths in-
creasing speedily toward the offing to 7 and 9 fathoms.

Loembing Rock. — Between the Great and Little Kombuis lies the dan-
gerous Midden or Loemhong Klip, a rock only a ship's length in extent, and
carrying only 2 J fathoms at low water. On the middle of it stands a hlach
beacon, with a cone, bearing W.S.W. from the South point of Little Kom-
buis, and S.E. by E. | E. from the South point of Great Kombuis. To the
southward, a little more than a mile from Kleine (Little) Kombuis, there is
Tiga Shoal, with 3J fathoms at low water; this is marked by a llach buoy,
surmounted by a ball, and from which the North point of Middelburg bears
E. JS.

Meinderts, Manders, or Mynder Shoal, is 1 J cable's length in diameter, and
has 2 fathoms depth upon its shoalest part. It is marked on its North and
South sides by two hlacTc buoys, surmounted by globes. The northern of these
bears S.E. i E., 2 miles from the East end of Little Kombuis, and W. f N.
from the North side of Middelburg Island. S.E. of Mynder Shoal lies
another small but dangerous shoal in the common track, discovered in 1840
by Lieutenant Staring, D.R.N. This shoal, called Tanna Kenappan, or
Ketapang, has 2J fathoms on it at low water, and close around it 6 fathoms,
which quickly increases to 7 and 9 fathoms. A llach luoxj, with a hall, has
been placed on this shoal, from which the beacon of Ontong Reef bears
S.E. by E. I E., distant a little more than a mile; the South point of
Amsterdam, just opening clear of the South point of Middleburg Island,
E. 1 S. ; and the North point of Middleburg E.N.E. \ E. Besides this
shoal, there are some others to the westward of Middleburg, but none of
them in the common track of ships. Upon two of them, however, there are
leacons. A ship beating up along the South side of the above-mentioned
dangers should consider it as a fairway mark, not to bring the South point
of Middleburg Island to the southward of E. J N., and to keep the South
point of Amsterdam always well open South of Middleburg.

The passage between the beacons on Middleburg and Ontong Reef is very
narrow (not quite half a mile), in 8 or 10 fathoms water. The reef which
borders the South coast of this island is very narrow, and carries a beacon,
with a cone at its extreme end.

MIDDLEBURG ISLAND, 2 miles N. by E. from Ontong Java, forms the
North side of the Inner Channel. It is surrounded by a reef, on the S.E.
point oC which is a llach leacon, with cone; and 2 J cables westward of the
beacon is a black buoy, surmounted by a ball, on the South side of the shoals

BATAVIA. 677

A red light is proposed to be established on the S.E. extreme of Middleburg
Island, as it is the turning point into the Batavia Eoads.

Amsterdam Island, to the eastward of it, is also surrounded by a reef,
quite steep-to, but having a narrow 9-fathom channel between it and Mid-
dleburg.

BATAVIA.

The capital of the Dutch East India Possessions was first built on the low
shore of the bay, called the Heede van Batavia, when that nation established
itself in the East. In 1610 a fort was built and named Batavia, on the
site of the present one, but at that time it stood on the edge of the sea,
which was deep nearly up to its walls. The town was founded in 1619, on
the ruins of the native one of Jacatra, and the Dutch, true to their home
instincts, built their streets on the sea level, with straggling canals inter-
secting them. This arrangement, convenient and good in Holland, was
most pestiferous within the tropics, and the place, up to recent times, was
proverbial for unhealthiness.

In 1699 a series of earthquakes brought down a vast quantity of earth,
which blocked up the previous channels, and obstructed the two piers which
had been carried out along the course of the river. A large bank was
formed off this entrance, and these piers were gradually extended as the
land subsequently increased with the drifts brought on to it by the prevalent
currents.

In 1753 the coast line had advanced to one-third of a mile from the walls
of the Kasteel or Fort, and at 90 years later the shore line was a mile sea-
ward of the fort. At present the piers are carried seaward If mile from the
shore line at the time of the first establishment of the fort. The pestiferous
canals were filled up in 1809 — 1817 by Marshal Daendels, under the vigorous
administration of the French rule.

The population of Batavia, as ascertained by the first correct census by the
British Government in 1814, was 47,217. Twenty years later it had risen
to 118,000, and in 1850 it was ascertained to be 348,325 — a marvellous in-
crease. It is now about 650,000.

The railway between Batavia and Buitenzorg, about 30 miles in length,
was opened in Jan., 1873. It is a great boon to the inhabitants, enabling
them to easily reach the high and healthy land of the interior. The goods
traffic is gradually increasing, quantities of tea, rice, coffee, and other pro-
ductions being transported from the interior to Batavia.

Batavia is connected with all parts of the island by electric telegraph, and
also with all parts of the world. Messages for Europe and China are sent
by way of Singapore. A cable is laid to Padang, on the West coast of Su-

678 JAVA.

matra, and another from Banjoewangie, on the South coast of Java, to Port
Darwin, thus bringing the Australian lines into the system. The rates, in
1874, were, to Europe £6 78., and to Singapore £1 3s. For Australia the
rates were, in, 1872, to Port Darwin, 20 words, 48 florins 75 cents ; to Mel-
bourne 50 florins, and to Syney 52 florins.

As may be supposd, the low fore shore afi'ords no facilities for commerce,
and it is by the piers and the proas that come out to the shipping in the
roads that commerce is carried on. There is no private establishment for
repairing ships, and only vessels of very small tonnage can be taken into
the river and careened. A project for the erection of docks, &c., was afoot
in 1870, but since that time nothing has been done. The only place for
repairs in Java is at Sourabaya. The"naval establishment is at the island of
Onrust, 5f miles north-westward from the pier-heads.

The BAY of BATAVIA, between the point, Ontong Java on the West,
and Krawang Point on the East, is 21 miles in width, and between the lines
joining those points it is 8 miles in depth. The bottom consists of soft mud,
but in the vicinity of the shoals, rock. The soundings are from 10 to 4
fathoms, regularly shoaling towards the shore ; and generally throughout
the bay at a mile distant from the beach there will be found 3 fathoms.
Except in a few places, the road is sheltered by a chain of islands, by which
ships are always protected against a dangerous swell setting in. The road
may be considered as very safe, for although ships roll considerably in the
strength of the western monsoon, and are consequently compelled to strike
their top-gallant masts and yards, no danger is to be apprehended of driving,
from the excellence of the holding ground.

Most of the islands and shoals lying near the road consist of coral with
white sand above water, and are covered with various kinds of trees ; they
are steep-to, and it would seem that some of them increase in extent, so that
it will be necessary to re-examine the depths from time to time ; and the
more prudence is recommended to those who try to pass over shoals, on
which but just sufficient depth is indicated. The coast of Java is generally
flat, but 30 miles inland from Batavia the Goenong Gedeh, or the Blue
Mountains, rise to a considerable height. Lieut. Melvill Van Carnbee found,
in 1841, by angular measurement, the height of these mountains above the
surface of the sea, viz. : Pangerango, 9,954 ft. ; Salak, 7,322 ft. ; Karang,
6,014 ft. In the western monsoon their peaks may be seen from the road
in the morning, but are seldom visible during the eastern monsoon. From
the common anchorage near Eynland Shoal, the highest peak of these
mountains, called Pangerango, bears S. by E. I E., the highest or eastern-
most peak of Salak S. ^ W., and Mount Karang, in the Bantam residency,
W. by S. According to the trigonometrical survey these peaks are in lat.
6° 45' 15", 6° 42', and 6° 15' 45" S., and in long. 107° 1' 45",' 106° 47', and
106° 6' 45" E.

BATAVIA. 679

Beacons. — In 1855-6 a system of beaconage was adopted by the Marine
Commission for Batavia Eoads, by which the limits of the three principal
channels leading towards Batavia were clearly marked. Two descriptions of
beacons only (both painted hlaclc) were used ; the one surmounted by balls or
globes, and the other by cones. The beacons with gloles to be left to
starhoard, and those with coyies to port, on entering. The situation and use
of these beacons will be described hereafter in their respective places. With
these, and the new lighthouse on the pier-head at Batavia there will bo no
difficulty in entering. In recent years hwys on the starboard side of channels
are generally painted ivhite.

ONTONG-JAVA REEF which forms the western limit of Batavia Bay, is
steep at its northern end, and consists there of a hard sand bank with
some rocks, with only half a fathom at low water ; the beacon with a globe,
which stands upon its northern edge 20 ft. above high water, ought not to
be approached nearer than in 8 or 9 fathoms. At the eastern side, abreast
of the island Schiedam, Ontong Eeof is more sloping, and may be more
nearly approached if the lead be kept briskly going. A ship, after passing
Middleburg, should steer S.E., S.E. by S., and S.S.E., edging aw*ay for
Onrust Island. Kelor Roch, or the Steen (Stone) of Onrust, is the western-
most of several small coral rocks which lie off the North point of Onrust ;
they are small and steep-to ; and on the shoalest place there are 2^ fathoms
near the beacon with a cone, which stands on its north-western extremity,
about 4 cables' lengths N.W. from Onrust, and which must be passed on its
western side. The Mathilda Roch lies less than half a mile W. I N. from the
former, and carries a leacon with o, glole, on its N.E. side in 3 fathoms depth,
but at low water there is no more than 2 fathoms upon its shoalest spot.
The channel runs betwixt these two last-mentioned rocks, and it is advisable
not to pass to the eastward of Kelor Eock, nor between the islands of Onrust,
Kerkhof, and Purmerend, on account of the numerous shoals in that space.
If a vessel should be working between Schiedam and Onrust, she will have
to look out for a small rock, discovered, in 1846, by Lieutenant Tengnagel,
D.E.N. , from whence Onrust bears South, easterly, and Mathilda Eock
beacon S.W. \ W. It carries 3 fathoms at low water, but there are 6i- fa-
thoms all round it and close to.

ONRUST, a small islet, not more than 400 yards in length, is the arsenal
of Batavia, and has every convenience for refitting a ship. There is 24 ft.
alongside the jetty, and the place is excellently managed.

There is a dry dock 400 ft. long, at which, previous to 1866, vessels could
be repaired, but since that date only in very urgent cases are merchant
vessels admitted.

The flagstaff upon the island of Onrust is in 6° 2' 20" S., and 4° 27' W.,
from the Time-ball at Batavia, or in 106° 43' 40 '5" E of Greenwich.

Kuiper Island is a cj^uarter of a mile South of Onrust. It is bold-to on the

680 JAVA.

S.W., but a reef surrounds it on the other sides. On the north-western
point of the reef a hlach beacon with, cone marks the North side of the Inner
Channel. The powder magazines for merchant shipping are on Kuiper
Island,

When past the Kelor, or Stone of Onrust, steer to the westward of Onrust
and Kuiper Islands, giving a proper berth to a reef which projects 1 or 1^
cable's length from the N.W. side of Kuiper, and of which the limits are
indicated by the leacon with a cone. The S.W. side of Kuiper Island may
be approached without danger ; but do not keep too much to the Java side,
on account of a small rock, called Karang Kuiper^ which bears S.S.W. half
a mile from the island, with 2j fathoms on its shoalest part, at low water.
It has a white huoy with glohe on its North side, and marks the starboard side
of the Inner Channel. A little way farther to the S.S.W. from this beacon
there is a sandha^ih with 1 fathom water upon it.

Soon after having rounded Kuiper steer S.E. by E. towards the lighthouse
on the West pier in Batavia Eoad, and the white buoys with balls on
Reigersdaal and Rijnland Shoals will be seen ahead ; pass between them in
6 to 7i fathoms right toward the shipping in the road, and anchor in 6 or 5
fathoms, mud. South from Eynland buoy. The western passage between
Reigersdaal and the main is not to be recommended, on account of two
shoals bearing S.W. from it, upon one of which there are 3J fathoms water.

The OUTER CHANNEL.— That which is called the Outer Channel leads
along the North side of the Struisvogel Eocks and the Great and Little
Kombuis, as a ship coming from the westward may pass on either side of
these. Between the Struisvogel Eocks and the Hoorn Islands, it is 5 miles
wide ; and these islands may be approached from the southward to within
half a mile, as their reefs do not reach farther off than \\ cable's length.
To the westward, however, there is a rock called Karhouw, about a mile
W. f N. from the West point of Tidong, the westernmost of the Hoorn Islands,
on which there is 1 fathom at low water. A leading mark to pass to the
northward of Struisvogel Shoal, and of the Laut and Tangara Eocks, is to
keep the Little Kombuis well open to the northward of the Great Kom-
buis. A ship may pass also to the southward of the Struisvogel be-
tween it and Tangara Eock beacon, but in this case the latter must be
approached within 1 mile distance, on account of the Laut Eock, before
described. The passage between Tongara Eock and Great Kombuis is also
safe, only taking care to remain full a mile from the West point of that
island, on account of the small coral rocks which project therefrom.

The HOORN ISLANDS (or Het Wapen van Hoorn Eilanden) are four in
number, stretching W. by N. and E. by S. 4 miles ; the two westernmost are
called the Great and Little Tidong, and the two easternmost, bearing North
and South of each other, are called Pajang Islands. Each of these groups
is surrounded by reefs, which fall partly dry at low water, and which are

BATAVIA. 681

very steep-to at the outside. The reef round the Tidongs projects but very
little to the southward ; to the northward about 1 J cable's length, and to the
eastward about 3 cables' lengths, while that which surrounds the Pajangs
projects North and South about 1, and East and West 2 or 3 cables' lengths.
The soundings to the southward of the Hoorn Islands are, very near them,
30 and 40 fathoms, and, in the channel between them and the Angeneita
Islands, which is full 2 miles wide, 35 to 50 fathoms.

The Angeneita Islands are a little more than 4 miles North of the Kom-
buis Islands, and are all very small islands, Pulo Parrie being the largest
and easternmost ; they are connected to each other by reefs, partly visible
above water and extending in some places three-quarters of a mile. One
mile East from Pulo Parrie are two small shoals very near each other, called
the Jonks, one of which shows above water, and upon the other there are
2 fathoms at low water. The fairway of the Outer Channel, between the
Angeneita and the Kombuis Islands, is close along the North side of the
latter, in order to avoid five heads of rook which lie on the North side of the
channel. The southernmost and easternmost of these is the Serassa Pod;
marked by a black huoy on its western side, from which Little Kombuis
Island bears S.S.W. 2f miles; Pangan RocTc, of 3^ fathoms, "W. by N.
half a mile ; Tanda Po Lakki Rock, of 4i fathoms, West three-quarters of a
mile ; Panyangdi Laut Rocks, a dangerous patch one-third of a mile in extent,
N. by W. 1 mile ; and about midway between the buoy and the East end is
Parrie Island.

Being so far advanced that Little Kombuis bears S.S.W. and Serassa
buoy North, steer N.E. or N.E. by E. till Dapoer Islet bears E. by S., and
then make right for it, because a straight course from the Little Kombuis
toward Dapoer would lead among the coral rocks which lie North and N.W.
from Middleburg, on some of which there are not more than 2^ to 3 fathoms
at low water. The northernmost of these rocks lies 2J cables northward of
a line joining the Little Kombuis and Dapoer. It is marked by a large
white Herbert's buoy, from which Dapoer Island bears E. J N., distant 2J
miles ; Little Kombuis W. by S. ^ S., 3 J miles ; Middleburg Island, East
end S. by E. \ E., 2| miles; and Serassa Eock buoy N.W. by W. J W.
3^ miles.

A ship coming from the Little Kombuis may also pass between the shoals
N.W. of Middleburg, and along the North side of this island as well as of
Amsterdam ; but she ought to have a steady breeze, for fear of being taken
aback between the reefs, and it will always be prudent to have a boat ahead
sounding. If a boat cannot be spared, and if she has a leading wind
through this channel, she will avoid the shoals by steering (as soon as Little
Kombuis bears S.S.W.) a S. by E. course until Little Kombuis bears
W. by N., and is in line with the South end of Great Kombuis ; keeping it
I. A. 4 s

682 JAVA.

80 will lead over a 4 J fathom patch, lying N.W. by N. H mile from the
N.W. end of Middleburg Island, and 3i cables northward of a 3|-fathom
patch, which lies N i E. 4 cables from the N.E. end of Middleburg Island.

From a position a mile N.E. of Amsterdam a south-eastei'ly course may
be steered for the Middle Channel.

Dapoer Island is surrounded by a reef, and 2 cables' lengths N.E, and
S. by E. from it lie two separate dangerous coral banks, the former extend-
ing to a distance of 4 cables from the island, and the latter a 2f-fathom
patch, at the distance of 3| cables — for which reason Dapoer should not be
approached within a mile distance on these bearings.

A lightliouse has been proposed on Edam Island, but is not likely to be
established. North of Edam, at three-quarters of a mile distance, there is a
coral reef of considerable extent, with not more than half a fathom of water.

Monnikendam Reef lies E. by S. from Haarlem Islet, and N. by W. from
Hoorn ; it falls partly dry at low water, but has in some places 2 and 3
fathoms. A white Herbert's buoy marks the North side of the reef, and
superseded the beacon existing here previous to 1872.

Middle Channel. — To take this channel, the vessel should not borrow too
much on the eastern shore of Amsterdam, as a reef projects from that side
2 cables' lengths. Two and a half miles further, mind the small rock,
called Obie, marked by a ivhite buoy surmounted by a glole, lying half a mile
East of Rotterdam. The channel leads to the eastward of this rock, between
it and Ayer Banh, which has 2^- fathoms water upon it at low water, and is
indicated by a hlack luoy with ball, which bears West from the North point
of Hoorn Island at 2^ cables' lengths distance. Between Rotterdam and
Kerkhof there are several small coral rocks with \\ to 3f fathoms upon
them, for which reason a ship should not borrow too much towards that side
of this channel. The easternmost of these rocks bears N.N.E. from Kerkhof,
S.E. from Rotterdam, and S. by E. from Obie buoy. The Wapen of Pur-
merend, or lalan Roclc, is about 2 cables' lengths in extent, consisting of large
rocks with 2 and 3 feet water upon them, and close-to 8 fathoms ; it has a
white buoy with a hall at its N.E. point, which bears E. ^ S. from Pur-
merend, and S. f W. from Hoorn.

Saket Reef bears S. by E. half a mile distant from Pui*merend Island ; it
is 2 cables in length, and carries 2 fathoms water on its shoalest part at low
water, as well as a beacon with a cone on its S.W. point. There are two other
reefs hereabout, one 2 cables' lengths to the East, and the other half a mile
S.E. from Purmerend, upon each of which, at low water, there is but half a
fathom patch.

The EASTERN CHANNELS leading to Batavia Eoad are very safe and
convenient, and, like the western channels, the chief dangers are marked
by beacons in the southern entrance. Those between the islands of Edam,
Alkmaar, Enkhuizen, and Leiden, have soundings of H, 12, 11, and 10

BATAVIA. 683

fathoms ; the channel to the southward of Leiden is also safe, if attention is
paid to the shoals which lie between it and the main, and to a small coral
rock, 2\ cables' lengths East of Leiden, upon which the Dutch ship Amstel
struck in 1842. It is marked by a Uach Jlerlerfs luoy surmounted by a hall.
The rock was surveyed by Lieut M. L, Kool, D.R.N., who found it to be two
ships' lengths in diameter, carrying 1^ fathom, and speedily deepening to 3,
5, 7, and 9 fathoms. From the shoalest spot, the North point of Leiden was
in one with the middle of Hoorn Island ; the South point bore W. % S., the
West point of Edam, just behind the West point of Alkmaar, and the East
point of Edam open to the eastward of Alkmaar. The rock is 218 yards
from the reef round the island, and between them there is 7 fathoms depth.

Vader Smit Shoal. — The first shoal between Leiden and the Java shore is
Vader Smit, a coral reef above water. It has a beacon and globe on its South
point, which bears S. f E. from Leiden, and N.W. I N. from Priok Point.
There is also a white Herbert buoy oif its N.E. extremity. A depth of only
3 fathoms is found at half a mile West of the buoy, and the same distance
N.W. of the beacon.

One mile East from Vader Smit, and S.E. by S. from Leiden, Lieutenant
Eschauzier, D.R.N., discovered, in 1840, another rock, with 2 J fathoms at
low water. This rock was very dangerous to ships proceeding through this
channel, and to avoid it they passed H or 2 miles to the eastward of Vader
Smit, but it is now marked by a beacon with a glohe. There is a depth of
only 3f fathoms at 3 cables AV.N.W. of the beacon. About a mile N.W.
from Priok Point there are also two other patches of coral rocks, in 3 and 3 J
fathoms water. The best channel is to the southward of the beacons and
the shoal East of Vader Smit, in 5i and 6 fathoms The coast of Java, to the
eastward of Priok Point, may be approached safely by the lead to 6 fathoms,
as the soundings decrease regularly ; though off Krawang Point it is better
not to borrow nearer than 8 fathoms, as the depths decrease there very
quickly to 3 fathoms.

Nierstuk is a rocky shoal of about 2 cables in length, usually covered by
breakers, having 2 ft. depth at low water. It was very easily discovered by
a discoloration of the water, or by the breakers which show with the least
wind, but now it is marked by two white buoys 4 cables apart, one off its
North and the other off its South end. It bears W.S.W. i W. from Vader
Smit, and about S.S.W. from Leiden. The passage between it and Vader
Smit is more than a mile wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms depth. The passage
between Nierstuk and the shoals of Neptunus, and Pas-op, is more than half
a mile wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms depth.

The Neptunus consists of large rocks with 2 feet water; it is 1 or 1^
cable's length in diameter, and is marked by a Uach buoy surmounted by a
hall off its N.W. extreme, and by a Uach buoy off its S.E. end.

Fas-op Shoal is very small, with 14 feet on its shoalest place, and 6 and 6

684 JAVA.

fathoms close to it ; it bears E. i N. a full mile from Rynland Shoal. It is
marked by a hlacJc huoy surmounted by a hall on its North side. This buoy
lies Ah cables S.S.W. of the buoy on the N.W. extreme of Neptunus Eeef,
a depth of 6 fathoms' water being found between them.

Karang^ Pipa is marked on its western side by a hlach buoy surmounted
by a lall which lies S.S.W. J "W. a quarter of a mile from the buoy on
Pas-op and a mile E. f S. from the Rynland Shoal buoy. It is a small coral
rock -with 2^ fathoms at low water, and close around 5, 6, and 7 fathoms.

The three buoys surmounted by balls on the western side of Neptunus,
Pas-op, and Pipa Eeef are nearly in line N. by E. f E. from the lighthouse
on the western pier at the distances of If, 2, and 2 J miles.

Rynland Shoal is very small, and has 15 feet water on its shoalest part.
It is marked on its North side by a lohite buoy surmounted by a lall, bearing
N. by "W. f W., H ^il© distant from the end of the pier of Batavia River.
The channel between Rynland and Pas-op Shoals is a mile wide, and 6 to 8^
fathoms in depth.

BATAVIA. — The piers which confine the river run in a N. by W. direction
from the observatory and time-bal], toward the Rynland Shoal. They ex-
tend for a mile beyond the line of shore into 18 feet water.

A LIG-HTHOUSE, showing a "bri^hi fixed light, elevated 54 feet, stands on
the "West pier 4 cables lengths from the head, and is shown from a lens
apparatus of the 4th order, and may be seen at more than 14 miles off
according to the elevation. A small lamp light is shown on the pier-head.

The best positions for anchorage by night are with this light between S. f
W. and S. f E. when to the southward of the Rynland, Pipa, and Nierstuk
Shoals. Entering the roads by the western channel, and having passed the
beacon on Karang Kuiper, steer S.E. until the light bears South, and then
anchor. Two white buoys, in 4f fathoms depth, lie S. by E. and S. by W
of Rynland Shoal, and mark the South limit of the anchorage.

Batavia Observatory, where a time ball has been exhibited since 1839,
stands East, 3133 yards from the boathouse near the river, or a little more
than a mile and a half from the lighthouse on the pi<^r-head. The geogra-
phic position of the time ball is in lat. 6° 8' S., and the assumed longitude
106° 48' 7^" E., 6'' SI"" 58^ in time.

The Time Ball is hoisted every day at 5 minutes before noon, Batavia
mean time, half-way up the pole ; at 2 minutes to mean noon it is hoisted to
the top, and precisely at Batavia mean noon it falls. For those ships that
wish to rate their chronometers according to Greenwich mean time, the
moment of 6 o'clock a.m., Greenwich mean time, is indicated in the same
way; the ball being hoisted half-way up at 46™ 58'' p.m., Batavia mean
time ; and at 49™ 58* to the top; and exactly at 51™ 58' p.m., Batavia time,
which corresponds to 6 o'clock a.m. Greenwich time, it falls.

The usual place for large ships to anchor is in 5 or 6 fathoms on a mud

BATAVIA. 685

bottom, about a mile distant from the pier-head, and between S.S.W. and
S.E. from Eynland Shoal. They seldom moor, as the anchors generally
bury themselves in the soft mud, for which reason it is advisable to sight the
anchor sometimes during a long stay. Small vessels may anchor nearer to
the pier-head, in 4 or 3- fathoms. There used to be a bar just outside of
the middle mouth of the river, with only 2 or 3 feet depth at low water upon
it ; but since the pier was lengthened, and the river shut off by a dike to
turn the current, this bank has disappeared. In the western monsoon there
is sometimes such a heavy swell which breaks at the mouth of the river, that
proas are unable to get out, and ships' boats may be exposed to great danger
sent on shore after a blue warning flag is displayed at the boathouse.

Tides. — By accurate observations, made in 1839 at Onrust, it seems that
the tides and the rise and fall of water are not sulDJect to fixed rules. In the
eastern monsoon, it appeared to be high water there in the evening ; and in
the western monsoon in the forenoon ; the time of high water at full and
change being generally 10 o'clock p.m. in the eastern monsoon, and at 10
a.m. in the western. The mean rise and fall was 2 feet, and the maximum
and minimum 4 feet, and scarcely an inch.

Whenever the weather is so boisterous, especially during the western
monsoon, that any attempt to land at the jetty, at Batavia, or alung the
shore, would be attended with danger, a blue flag will be hoisted at the
Mizen of the Guard Ship, and similar flags will also be shown at the Ob-
servatory, as well as at the palace of Wettereden. The signal "There is
too much surf to land " will likewise be displayed at the Observatory.

The variation of the compass is at present 0° 45' E. In 1847 it was 1°
45' E., as computed from a great number of observations on board H.N.M.
ships ; thus showing that when compared with former years, it has changed
from West to East, and is again decreasing in the latter direction. The mean
height of the mercury in the barometer is 29.67 inches. The influence of
the weather upon the barometer is very small, it being seldom raised by
continued dry weather, or depressed by a boisterous moist temperature,
more than from 1 to ^ lines above or below the mean. The mean tempera-
ture in the morning and evening is from 70° to 74°, and at noon from 84° to
86° Fahrenheit ; although it occasionally rises to 90° or 95°. Batavia Eoad
is rendered unhealthy by the pernicious influence of the noxious vapours
generated along the marshy coast and the shoals at low water, which are
uncovered, and it seems to be chiefly in the shifting months of the monsoons
that the Batavia fever is most frequent. Ships, therefore, intending to make
a long stay should not anchor too near the shore.

There is at Batavia an excellent establishment for purifying the water for
the shipping in the road ; this water is conveyed on board, at fixed and
moderate prices, in whole or half leaguers, or in proas fitted with tanks.
Artesian wells have also been recently sunk (1875).

686 JAVA.

Krawang Point is 16 miles N.E. by E. from the Batavia lighthouse. The
shore bank around the point stretches off for 2 or 3 miles, and therefore it
should not be made too free with. There are no detached dangers in the
eastern portion of Batavia Bay, and therefore a vessel may safely anchor in
any part of it.

The islands and dangers which lie in the Java Sea to the northward of
those which lie across the mouth of Batavia Bay, will be described pre-
sently.

The NORTH COAST of JAVA is in general flat, covered with large trees
to the beach, and a little way up the country there are several high peaks,
which may serve as sea guides. Some of these are 10,000 and 11,000 ft.
high, and their positions accurately laid down in the charts. It occurs often
that they, especially in the eastern monsoon, are concealed by clouds or by
the hazy state of the atmosphere, but in the western monsoon the highest of
them may be seen more than 26 leagues. In October, 1842, Lieut. Melvill
van Carnbee saw the Pangerango, or Blue Mountains, at the distance of 37
leagues. The soundings along the coast are regular, so that in most places
the land may be approached to 8, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, mud ; but, in some
places extensive shoals project from the shore ; and there are a few danger-
ous rocks and shoals in the offing.

The Eastern Monsoon prevails along this coast while the sun is to the
northward of the equator, and the western monsoon when the declination is
South ; their general tendency being towards that parallel where the sun is
in the zenith. The former is in its greatest strength in the months of June,
July, and August ; and the western monsoon in December, January, and
February. As in most intertropical countries, land and sea breezes will be
found within a certain distance from the shore, and may be very advan-
tageously employed in an adverse monsoon. These land and sea breezes,
however, are not regular, as in the strength of the western monsoon the
wind does not at all deviate from its common direction, and in the middle of
the eastern monsoon seldom more than one or two points.

Ships passing between Batavia and Sourabaya and back must steer dif-
ferent courses in different seasons, in order to make a speedy passage ; and
although the rules prescribed here are not submitted as fixed laws, yet they
should be followed as nearly as possible, according to circumstances.

Vessels going in the western monsoon from Batavia to Sourahaga ought to run
out from the Eynland Shoal between N. and N.E., till Edam bears North.
Then steer N.E. by E. 16 miles, and E.N.E. 20 miles, till in about 5° 42' S.,
and 107° 24' E., when they will be clear of the reefs of Sedarie ; then steer
East 36, and S.E. or S.E. by E. 28 miles, passing between the rock of Pama-
noekan and Boompjes Islands, after which a direct course may be steered

BATAVIA— DIEECTIONS. 687

for the point of Indramayoe. When they have verified their reckoning by

one of these points the course will be East for 49 leagues, along the South
side of Carimon Java Islands, till Mandelike Island boars South ; from thence
steer S.E. by E. and E.S.E. to make Ouwer Point (in about long. 112° E.)
care being requisite not to bring Mandelike to the northward of "West till
clear of Taio Bank. From Ouwer Point the course is E. and E.S.E. along
the shore, having a good mark in the Doodkists (coffins) to make Panka
Point. In this monsoon it is of the highest importance, when past Mande-
like, not to keep too much in the offing, as the easterly currents will carry
a ship speedily past Sourabaya Strait, in which case the hills upon the island
Madura, called the False Doodkists, will be mistaken for those which lie
near Panka Point. In such circumstances, a ship would have the greatest
trouble to beat up against the westerly winds and contrary currents in order
to fetch Sourabaya Strait, a case which has often happened.

Ships hound from Sourabaya to Batavia in the western monsoon have a difficult
task to perform, when the wind blows with violence, and for a ship that sails
indifferently it will be impossible.

It is always a safe rule to take advantage of every little veering of the
wind which will give the most westing. Should it draw to the southward of
West, work up with short tacks under the Java shore, to avoid the disadvan-
tage of a high sea and easterly currents. If it comes to a gale with a high
head sea, it would be advisable to bear up for one of the harbours, and wait
a change in the weather, as in general such weather does not last long.
Most of the roads along the North coast of Java are unsafe in this monsoon,
such as those of Japara, Samarang, Pekalongan, Indramayoe, Tjassem, and
Pamanoekan, being exposed to much sea, and some are difficult to enter.
Cheribon Eoad affords good shelter from westerly winds ; but in most in-
stances it will be better to return and anchor behind Panka Point, for, if
the wind comes to N.W. or N.N.W., a vessel might be much hampered by
the Java shore, causing great trouble to get off, especially if in the Bay of
Samarang. In the western monsoon, tolerable good shelter will also be found
near or in Joana Eoad, or behind Cape Boegel and the Taio Bank.

Shi2)s hound from Sourahaya to Batavia in the eastern monsoon should steer
from Panka Point W.N. W. or W. by N. till past Mandeliko Island, and then
about West from Indramayoe Point, which should be seen. From thence a
westerly course for 8 or 9 leagues will carry them in sight of Pamanoekan
Point, but not too far in the offing for fear of Pamanoekan Eock. When
certain of having passed that rock, steer about N.N.W. till at least 8 miles
to the northward of Sedarie Point, to avoid the Sedarie Eeefs, and then try
to get sight of the land near Krawang Point with a S. W. or W.S. W. course,
after which make Edam Island, and passing between it and Krawang Point
with a S.W. course, run into Batavia Eoad. When the ship has arrived off
Sedarie Point, if becalmed there, seeing the land, mind the westerly current.

688 JAVA.

which might carry her much more to the westward than the reckoning would
indicate, and might entangle her among the Nassau ledges and other dangers
thereabout. H.N.M.S. Schrikverwekker, coming from the eastward to Ba-
tavia, was carried so far by the current in the night of the 17th of May,
1800, and was wrecked upon one of the reefs near Angenita Islands. And
the Admiral Zoutman, Captain Heykop, which ship struck in March, 1839,
upon a coral rock, bearing (by account) 16J miles N.N.W. I AV. from Kra-
wang Point, and carrying 18 feet water. This rock seems to have been the
Nassau Ledge. The captain remarks that long experience had taught him
that if a ship be more than 7 or 8 leagues distant from this part of the coast,
it is prudent to anchor, even in 25 fathoms, if the weather is not too threaten-
ing, as the lead is no proper guide in such a situation.

A vessel from Batavia to Souralaya in the eastern monsoon ou^i to take every
possible advantage of the land and sea breezes, and therefore should not
stand too far into the offing. If she leaves Batavia Road in the evening, or
in the night, and arrives abreast of Edam on its eastern side, a north-easterly
course will carry her to about latitude 5° 42', where she may expect the sea
breeze. From thence she will get sight of the Points of Pamanoekan and
Indramayoe with S.S.E., S.E., or E.S.E. courses, taking care to give a good
berth either North or South to Pamanoekan Pock. Then let her try to get
so much easting with the land wind that the next tack in-shore will allow her
to stand along Cheribon Eeef. When this succeeds, and on this tack Brebes
Point, or Tegal, is made, the coast should not be approached from thence to
Samarang, nearer than 10 miles, in order to avoid the Pemoelang and Koro-
welan Pucks, nor should she stand too far off on account of the Bappang
Eeef. If not bound to Samarang, when making long tacks off and the short
boards in-shore, she will get sight of the Japara Mounts, and may try to
gain so much easting as to weather with the sea breeze Mandelike and Taio
Bank. Take care, however, not to borrow too much on this bank, and
therefore Mandelike should not be brought to bear to the northward of
West before Cape Boegel is distant 8 miles. From thence beat up with short
tacks in the offing and long ones in-shore, along the coast toward Panka
Point, in order to get sight of the Loodkist or Coffin Hills. In the night the
small Mount Koekoesan, near the Coffins, is a good mark for bearing away
towards Panka Point.

KRAWANG POINT, in 5° 57' S., and 107° 1' 7" E., forms the N.E.
boundary of Batavia Bay, as before mentioned. When bound to the east-
ward, pass this point at a distance of 4 miles in 15 fathoms ; for though it
may be approached to 2 miles in 10 fathoms, it is bettor kept at a greater
distance, as to the eastward of this point the bank trends to the northward
till it reaches an offing of nearly 3 miles.

Sedarie Reefs.— From Krawang Point steer E. by N. or E.N.E. to avoid
the Eeefs of Sedarie. The coast between Krawang and Sedarie Points

THE PAMANOEKAN EOCK. 689

stretches about East and E. by S., forming two bights towards Sedarie Point,
which is a low round projection. Its woody north- easternmost part is in
6° 591' S., and 107° 24^' E., and about 4 miles to the eastward of the mouth
of Sedarie River. Sedarie Reefs consist of some dry patches or shoals de-
tached from the shore, with narrow channels between them. Upon the two
northernmost of these patches 3^- and 4^ fathoms is the shoalest water, and
altogether they extend 2 miles N.W. and S.E., and 1 mile across ; and are
composed of black sand with shells. The northernmost bank bears N.E.
from Sedarie Point, 6 miles distant. The depths outside increase rapidly
from 5 to 7 fathoms, and at the distance of 2 miles to the northward, to 10
fathoms, inside of which it is not advisable to pass ; and there the low land
of the point is just discernible. Upon the southernmost of these shoals,
which consists of three small patches of sand with shells, near each other,
the least water is 2J fathoms. Between the North and South patches there
is a channel of 1 mile in breadth, lying N.W. and S.E., with 8 to 10 fathoms
water, but decreasing to the eastward to 6 fathoms. Between the South
patch and the main, a channel 1 mile wide and 4 fathoms deep, over mud,
stretches 2 miles along the coast. It is best to pass to the northward of all
these dangers.

Near the northermost of these shoals, Lieutenant Escher took the follow-
ing bearings : Mount Salak S.W. i S., the Pangerango 8.S.W. J W., the
Panimbang S. by W. i W., the highest top of the Craggy Mountains S. ^
W., the highest top of Tankobang Llountains, 6,427 feet, S. by E. f E., the
Tampomaas S.E. by 8., and Cheribon Peak (just visible) S.E. From the
outer edge of the Sedarie Reef the course is between S.E. and E.S.E. towards
Pamanoekan Point, which lies in 6° 12' S., and long. 107" 49J' E., or 57' 30"
from Batavia. The shore may be approached to within 8 fathoms, and from
10 to 14 fathoms is a proper track in the night, in order to pass within the
Pamanoekan Rock, on which the Wacrden Castle was lost.

The PAMANOEKAN ROCK is very dangerous. Its position, and even its
existence, was doubted, but numerous disasters hereabout showed that it cer-
tainly did lie somewhere in the vicinity. In the ancient sea atlas, by the
celebrated J. Van-Keulen, the rock is marked nearly in its position and true
character. It was surveyed in 1802 by Lieut. N. Doekes, and said by him
to bear N.E. by N., a little easterly from Pamanoekan Point from 13 to
18 miles; the adjacent depth being 17 to 19 fathoms. According to his
survey the rock is 109 yards in extent, witn 2| fathoms water upon it, and
Pamanoekan Point just visible, appearing as an island.-

It has been many times sought for since without success. But on August
7th, 1848, the Netherlands barque Celebes, Capt. J. R. N. J. Biji, struck on
it, and was fixed there for some time. Her draught was 15f feet English,
and when aground Mount Tampomaas bore S. f E., and Pamanoekan Point,

I. A. it

690 JAVA.

S.S.W. i W. By a good chronometer observation the longitude was found
as 107° 50' 7" E., lat. 6' 3' S. By these data it is only 10 miles from Pama-
noekan Point, if the charts be correct. It is very small, as at less than
half a ship's length all around the vessel, there was from 8 to 20 fathoms.

A Fifteen-feet Patch is marked on the charts at 9 1 miles eastward of Pama-
noekan Eock, 20 miles N.W. by W. of Indromaya Point, and 19 miles
W.S.W. of Eackit Island light.

Near Pamanoekan Point, about 2 miles distant W. ^ S. from it and N.N.E.
from the mouth of Tjassem Eiver, good anchorage in the East monsoon may
be taken in 4 fathoms water ; but it is an open anchorage, and unsafe
during the N.W. monsoon. From this anchorage the course of N.E. by
E. leads clear of a reef which projects nearly to the distance of a mile from
the point. Between the Sadoelang Islands, which lie from 8 to 16 miles to
the westward of Pamanoekan Point, there are some shoals, which it is ad-
visable not to approach. From Sedarie to to Indramayoe Point the coast is
low, with some high land in the interior ; it may be approached safely to 8
fathoms, but not nearer.

THE POINT OF INDRAMAYOE, in 6° 12' S., and 1° 29^' E. from Ba-
tavia, is of moderate height and woody, and at some distance has the appear-
ance of an island ; at its western side there is a good anchorage in 4 or 5
fathoms, but to the northward it should not be approached within 7 fathoms,
as the reef projects there nearly a mile. Indramayoe is an open port for
exports only.

RACKIT or BOOMPJES ISLAND, in 5° 54' fc5., and 108° 20' E., is full 6
leagues N. ^ E. from Indramayoe Point. According to Lieutenant B. H.
Staring, D.E.N., who surveyed it in 1840, Eackit Island is about a mile East
and West in extent, and lies in the track of 25 fathoms.

LIGHT. — A revolving white light, showing a flash of 24 seconds duration,
preceded and followed by an eclipse of 36 seconds, is shown from the S.E.
point of Eackit; it is elevated 116 ft. above the sea, visible 23 miles off.
The tower, of open ironwork, is painted white.

About N.N.E. from Eackit lies Middle Patch, a collection of rocks, close to
each other, and partly visible above water ; and still farther N.N.E. the
North Outer Patch, in 5°46i' S., and 108° 22|-'E., the passages between these
shoals and the island are each of them 3 miles wide, with 25, 26, and 27
fathoms depth, and are both safe. Vessels, however, should keep in the
mid-channels, as the reefs project a little distance under water- Close to the
northward of the Outer Patch there are 27 fathoms, and 4 miles N.N.E. of
it 30 fathoms blue mud. When working through the channel, between
Eackit Island and Indramayoe Point, in the night, do not approach the
island nearer than 20 fathoms, nor the point nearer than 10 fathoms. The
depth in the channel was found to be greater than the chart of 1841 showed ;
it is from 24 to 25 fathoms.

CAPE TANNA AND EEEF— CHEEIBON. 691

CAPE TANNA and Reef. — From Indramayoe Point the coast runs S.E.
by E. 7 leagues toward Capo Tanna, in 6° 30' S., and thence S. by E. 14
miles toward Cheribon, the flagstaff of which on the eastern side of the river
lies in 6° 45' S., and 108° 34' E., or 1° 46' E. from Batavia. The reef was
surveyed, in 1802, by Captain Busscher, D.E.N., and, in 1841, by Lieut.
Groll. Both the surveys show that the re?/ projects nearly 4 leagues to the
eastward, with 3-^ fathoms on its extreme end, and 2i and 2 fathoms farther
in ; in some places it consists of hard sand, in others of softer ground, and
part of it is sometimes covered with breakers.

CHERIBON. — The cliief town of the important province of the same name,
and an open port, is 16 miles southward of Cape Tanna, and the same dis-
tance S.W. of the East end of the Tanna Eeef. It is the outlet of the
remarkably fertile province^ which, consisting chiefly of volcanic soils, pro-
duces abundance of coffee, indigo, teak-timber, &c. It had a bad reputation
for unhealthiness, a third of its inhabitants having perished from a pestilence
at the commencement of the present century. It is the residence of a Dutch
governor and staff, and on th.6 South side of the river is a fort for its pro-
tection, the flagstaff of which is a mark.

Light. — Since July 1st, 1867, a hright Jixed dioptric light has been shown
from the extremeity of the northern mole of the harbour, elevated 26 feet
above high water, and visible 8 miles off. It is merely intended as a guide
to the roadstead at night.

The South prong of the Tanna Eeef and Cheribon Peak, and the flagstaff,
are in one, on the bearing of S.W. ; the proper mark, therefore, to avoid
that South prong is to bring the mount well to the westward of S.W., and
to round the reef in 6 or 7 fathoms. Large ships find a good anchorage at
2 miles N.E. or E.N.E. from the fort, with a small but conspicuous Djatty
bush, about W.N.W. in 3 1 to 4i fathoms, soft mud ; and small vessels more
in shore half a mile from it, in 3 to 2^ fathoms. In the western monsoon this
road affords a good shelter from the high sea, and is a safe anchorage at any
time of year.

Cheribon Peak, 10,323 feet as ascertained by barometer, in 1840, by Dr.
Junghun, being very conspicuous, is a good mark for ships sailing along this
coast ; it stands in 6° 54^ S., and 108" 28J' E.

Peak of Tegel. — Between Cheribon and Tegal the coast is low, but inland
the country is mountainous, and the Peak of Tegal, or Guno7ig Gede, is the
highest point of the whole island ; it is in 7° 13i' S., and 109° 13' 3" E. A
little more to the eastward, but nearer to the sea, there is another conspicuous
mountain, called Gadjah, or the Elephant.

TEGAL, or Tagal.— The flagstaff of the fort at Tegal lies in 6° 44' S., and
109° 8' 7" E., and bears North by West from Mount Tegal. It is an open
port for exports only. The anchorage is in 4 or 5 fathoms North by West
from the fort, 1 or 1 i mile off shore. Tegal Rock lies N.E. \ E. 4i miles from

692 JAVA.

Tegal, and about 3 miles from the nearest point of the shore. This rock is partly
even with the water's edge, and extends East and West 710 yards, and North
and South 300 yards. It is marked by a ichite beacon. From Tegal Peak
this beacon bears about N. h W., and the soundings at half a cable's length
round it are 9 fathoms ; shoaling regularly towards the shore, in 8 and 7, to
the mid-channel in 6 fathoms. Tegal cannot be considered a safe anchorage
during the N.W. monsoon.

It is proposed to show o, fixed red light from an iron post at Tegal.

From Tegal to Samarang the coast runs about East with some small bights.
Cape Pamalang should not be approached nearer than in 16 fathoms, to avoid
the shoals of Soegalie and Pemoelang, which lie about 4 miles N.W. and
N.N.W. from that point. The shoalest spots upon these shoals are 16 and
27 feet; and they bear about 16 miles E.N.E. J E. from Tegal, and N.N.E.
from Mount Gadjah.

Pekalongan, an open port for exports only, is at the mouth of a river, which
lies in 6° 51j S., and 109° 43' 40" E. ; the town being a little inland, and not
visible from seaward through the trees.

Light. — A white plastered pyramid was erected in 1836, a little to the
westward of the entrance of the river; and since September, 1866, this
pyramid has been used as a lighthouse, showing a bright ^xei light, elevated
26 feet, visible 8 miles off. It is a guide to the roadstead off the river.

When coming from the eastward, if a vessel should pass Cape Goenong at
the distance of 2 miles, in 5 or 6 fathoms depth, the lighthouse will be seen
bearing West by South ; from thence steer W.N.W. ^ W. in 5J fathoms,
toward the road of Pekalongan, where she may anchor in 4f or 3^ fathoms,
soft ground, at U or 1^ miles from the entrance of the river. Coming from
the westward. Cape Pamalang should not be approached too near, to avoid
the shoals of Soegalie and Pemoelang ; but once past those rocks, Oeloedjami
Point may be approached to 4J fathoms, at the distance of 3 or 2 miles,
where the pyramid wiU be discerned, bearing E.S.E. about 8 miles, amongst
some high trees on the beach which served formerly to guide a ship to Peka-
longan Road. Pekalongan is not a safe anchorage during the N.W. mon-
soon.

Bappang, or Coreas Reef.— When not touching at Tegal, 14 to 20 fathoms
is a good depth in the night to avoid the Bappang or Coreas Eeef, which
was examined, in 1847, by Captain Theedens, who anchored near it in 8
fathoms, and found its length and breadth to be about half a mile. Its
general depth was 5J to 4 fathoms, but in one spot there was a single rock
carrying only 14 feet ; close round the reef there were 4^ fathoms, and it lay
in the stream of 23 fathoms, and 20 miles from the shore, and about 18
miles East of Pamalang Point ; but this position is doubtfiil, as it has been
placed 5 miles farther to W. by N.

Eorowelan Shoal. — Another shoal called Korowelan, or Korrowolaan, with

SAMAEANG. 693

3| fathoms depth, is situated more to the eastward about 6 miles off shore,
abreast of Kendal. Between this shoal and the shore is a channel with 10
to 5 fathoms depth. A conspicuous conical UerlerVs beacon buoy (which always
stands upright), painted red, is placed on the shoal.

MOUNTAINS — Between Tegal and Samarang the land is high in the
interior ; the most conspicuous mountains toward the latter place are the Sin-
doro (10,318 feet), and Soembing (11,030 feet), or the Twee Gebroeders (Two
Brothers), both remarkable peaks, the easternmost being most remote, 26^
miles from the shore. They bear S.W. by W., and S.W. \ S. from the en-
trance of Samarang Eiver. The easternmost and highest peak (8,389 feet)
of the Pralioe, or Praauw Mountaims bears W.S.W. nearly from the mouth of
that river. To the eastward of these stand the Samarang Mountains, called
Oenaran, or Onarang, 5,147 ft., and Merbaboe, 10,220 ft., bearing S. by "W. f
W., and S. j W., from the mouth of Samarang Eiver.

THE BAY OF SAMAEANG, bounded to the eastward by the high land of
lapara, lies South from the islands of Crimon Java, or Karimon Java. This
bay affords good anchorage in the eastern monsoon in 5 or 6 fathoms, mud,
at about 3 or 4 miles from the beach, the flagstaff of Samarang bearing S.
or S.S.E., the westernmost visible land about West, and the high land of
lapara N.E. by E. Small vessels may anchor in 4 fathoms, 2 or IJ miles
distant from the shore. The road being open to West and N.W. winds,
ships are exposed in the western monsoon to a high sea, for which reason
this bay is not to be recommended in that season, particularly if compelled
to make a long stay.

SAMAEANG, which lies in the head of the bay, is one of the three prin-
cipal cities of Java for European residence and commerce, and one of the
ports of call for the Netherlands' Indian Steam Navigation Company's boats.
It is an open port, and the seat of the governor of the important province of
the same name. The shore of the bay upon which it is built is very low, the
site being an alluvial plain, and the beach is only communicated with by
means of a raised causeway. It, however, contains some handsome build-
ings, and is protected by fortifications from native attack. The great high-
way which traverses Java from West to East, passes through the place, and
there is another road which crosses the island here, about 70 miles broad,
from North to South. A railway runs into the interior from Samarang.
The concession was first granted in 1872, but many delays have occurred in
its construction.

At Samarang there are no establishments for repairing vessels. The har-
bour is quite open, and in the N.W. monsoon very dangerous, and commu-
nication between the shore and the harbour is often interrupted for several
days. The Government continued deaf to the representations of the mer-
cantile community of Java regarding the necessity of insuring the complete

694 JAVA.

safety of the harbour, although it has indeed met them half-way by building
a new walled-in canal extending some way over the surf. — (1870.)

A harbour light is proposed to be established here on the completion of the
harbour works. A white beacon is placed on Oedjoing Kalavaran, to indi-
cate the N.E. limit of the Eoad of Samarang.

The flagstaff stands in 6° 57' 20" S., long. 110° 24' 37" E.

lAPARA ROAD is situated in 6° 32^' S., and 110° 35*' E., and is very
safe in the eastern monsoon. The anchorage is inside of the islands Kelok
and Panjang, in 4 to 6 fathoms depth. When coming from the westward the
high land of lapara appears like an island, the coast near Samarang being
low, and forming a deep curve. From Samarang Eoad to lapara Point the
course is about N.N.E. ; and between them lies Visscher Island, in about
6° 36' S. Approaching from the northward, caution is required to avoid a
3f-fathom bank, which lies between 2 and 5 miles off shore, and between 3
and 5 miles north-westward of Panjang Island. Its centre is in lat. 6° 28' S.,
long. 110° 34' E. It appears to be about 3 miles in diameter, and leaves but
a narrow channel between it and the dangers extending off shore.

It is proposed (May, 1877,) to show a s-mBll fixed red light at Japara.

KAEIMON JAVA, or the Crimen Java Islands, are very numerous,
covering a space of 12 or 13 leagues East and West, and 5 leagues North
and South.

They were surveyed, but not completely, by the Dutch, in the frigate
Vreede, Captain Dibbets, in 1803; many detached shoals and other dangers
have since been discovered.

The largest and highest of these islands are Karmon, Komodian, and Pa-
rang, which are discernible at a great distance. There is a Dutch settlement
atKarimon, which is sometimes visited by ships. The general anchorage is
about 3 miles West from Karimon, and about midway between the islands
Meniangan at the East side, and Glean and Boerong at the West side, in 20
to 30 fathoms water ; but there is a sand bank 3 ft. above water, extending
E.S.E. and W.N. W. about 3 cables' lengths, with the West end of the Great
Karimon bearing N. 25° E.; Pulo Boerong, W. 17° S. ; and Pulo Glean,
W. 7i° S.

Another sand bank, with 4J ft. water over it, stretches N.E. and S.W.
for 4 cables' lengths in breadth, with the West end of Great Karimon
E. 7^° N. Pulo Boerong and Pulo Glean in one, S. 48° W. ; Pulo Tjamara
Ketjil, N. 30° W. The flagstaff stands in 5° 54' S. and 110° 31^' E. Between
the different islands there are deep channels with 10 to 30 fathoms, but they
should be cautiously used, for besides the reefs which project from the islands,
there are some other dangerous rocks, which were discovered and surveyed,
in 1825, by Lieutenant I. I. Baedrie, and in 1826 by Captain Elgenhuizen,
D.R.N., and in 1862 by Captain Halverhout, D.R.N., in the steam frigate
Soemhing.

lAPAEA EOAD-KAEIMON JAVA. 695

A coral reef, dry at low water, with both Krakab Islands in one, and bear-
ing S.S.W. J W., the highest land of Karimon Island E. by S.

The Eatang Reef stretches East and West about 2 or 3 miles, and North
and South about a mile, and although it does not dry at low water, it is
easily discerned in clear weather. From this reef Katang Island bears
E. by N., the highest land of Karimon E. J S., Krakab-besar E.S.E. \ E,,
Krakab-ketjil S.E. by E. | E., and the North point of Parang N.E. f E.

The sand bank and coral rocks, called Kappal, are about 2 or 3 miles East
and West, and a mile broad. Upon its shoalest part there are 2 and 3 ft.
water. From its West point Krakab-besar bears N. by E. | E., and Krakab-
ketjil N. by E. I E., Boerong E. ^ N., the highest land of Karimon Island
E.N.E. I E., Niamok Island N.N.W., and the West point of Parang Island
N. iE.

There are also the following dangers to be guarded against.

A coral reef, with 6 ft. water on it, 2 cables in length North and South,
with Pulo Katang bearing S. 62° E. ; Karang Bessie N. IT W. ; and Pulo
Njamok E. 17° S.

A coral reef, uncovering at low water, one-third of a mile long, N.N.E. and
S.S.W., with Pulo Njamok E. 8^^ S. ; Pulo Katang N. 17' E. ; Karang-
Katang W. by S. A reef of sand and coral extends for 3 miles to S. 62''W.
from Pulo Njamok. From the outer end of this danger Pulo Katang bears
N. 19° E. ; Karang Bessie N. 19' W. ; Pulo Krakab Ketjil E.S.E.

Karang Bessie, discovered in 1826, is an isolated sand bank, high out of
the water, and about 1| mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W.

From these rocks the N.W. point of Parang bears N.E. by E. i E., the
highest land of Karimon E. by S., Kombang E. J N., the South point of
Njamok S.E. i S., and the middle of Kombar Island N.E. ^ E.

Besides these reefs and rocks, a shoal will be found between Kombar and
Parang Islands; another 2 miles S.E. of Parang; again, at a mile N.E. of
Tjamara-ketjil ; and several other small rocks .along the East coasts of Ko-
modian and Karimon Islands. A vessel coming from the westward, and in-
tending to touch at these islands, should make Karimon about E.N.E., and
steer right for it, taking care to give Krakab-ketjil a berth of 6 miles to the
southward, in order to avoid Kappal Reef; and then to pass between Boe-
rong and Meniangan, steering for the anchorage. Between Karimon and
Moniangan there is a channel with sufficient depth for large ships, but it is
rendered very narrow by reefs that project from both sides. When passing
along the western side of this group of islands, it would be prudent to keep
at least 8 miles to the westward, to make sure of clearing Katang and Bessie
Keefs.

Tides amotig the Karimon Islands. — In 1839 Mr. Michalofsky observed the
tides among these islands, and states that they are very irregular, but that
with rising water (in the eastern monsoon by night, and in the western

696 JAVA.

moDBOon by day), the current runs most to the eastward, and with falling
water to the westward. It is but once in the 24 hours high and low water,
each tide lasting from 9 to 15 hours. At full and change it is high water in
the eastern monsoon at 8 p.m., and in the western monsoon at the same hour
a.m. ; and there seemed to be a general, although irregular, retrograde
motion in the time of high water. The mean rise and fall of the water was
4 ft., and the greatest 6 ft.

The PASSAGE between the Karimon Islands and the coast near lapara is
10 or 11 leagues wide, with depths of 19 to 30 fathoms. Near the Java
coast lies the island oi Mandelihe, in 6° 22' S., and 110° 49' E. This island
bears North from Mount Moera, about a mile off shore, and may be approached
very near, it being steep-to at all sides. The passage between Mandelike
and the main is free from dangers, being a mile wide, and having 3f and 4^
fathoms water.

Two miles East of Mandelike, at Cape Boegel, the coast forms a deep curve,
from which the Bank of Taioe projects 5 or 6 miles off shore ; a large ship
should therefore not bring Mandelike to the North of "West, until 6 miles
past Cage Boegel. This bank consists of the same whitish clay which is
found near Mandelike and in most places along the North coast of Java ;
it stretches along the coast, toward Joana Eoad, where there are 4 fathoms
water.

HEMBANG BAY is bounded to the eastward by the Point of Lierang in
6° 36^' S., and 111° 28' E. Close to the beach are the towns oi Remlang and
Zassem, noted for their timber, and at the West end of the bight the village
Joana, a little way up a small river. The South shore of the bight is lined
with a great many islets and rocks. The flagstaff of Rembang stands in
6° 40^' S., and 111° 14' 40" E. This is an open port for exports only. To
steer for the road, and to avoid the rocks, of which some are lying 2^ miles
off shore, bring the flagstaff to bear South, and anchor on that bearing in 4
or 4^ fathoms, about 2 miles from the shore. From Lierang Point the
coast leads, with some small curves, about E. by S. to Sourabaya Strait, and
may be approached to 6 and 5J fathoms, and in some places into 4^ fathoms
water. It is proposed to show a small bright light at Java.

PANKA POINT, or rather the flagstaff, is in 6° 56' i" S., and 112= 34' E.,
or 9' 56" W. from the western pier-head of Sourabaya ; it forms the western
side of the strait which leads to Sourabaya, and is a low and sandy point,
A little to the westward of it there are some conspicuous mountains, two of
which are called the Coffins {Doodkisten), from their shape, and a third is of
a square form ; and these hills serve exceedingly well to recognize Panka
Point, and in the western monsoon it is advisable to get sight of them in
time, especially at night, because the current carries a ship speedily to the
eastward of the strait.

The STRAIT of SOURABAYA was trigonometrically surveyed, in 1843-7,

STEAIT OF SOUEABAYA. 697

by Lieutenant (now Captain) M. H. Jansen, D.R.N, (a name since famous
in connection with Indian Hydrography and Meteorology), assisted by five
other able officers ; at its entrance, between Panka Point and Cape Wodon,
the N.W. point of Madura, it is 15 miles wide, and that space is nearly all
filled up by an extensive flat, called the Zee Bank, but leaving at the western
side two narrow channels for the navigation of large ships.

The Lightvessel at the northern entrance of the western channel leading
to Sourabaya exhibits a white light, elevated 28 ft. above the sea, visible 10
miles off. The light consists of three lanterns hoisted on the mast of the
lightship, which appear as one light at a distance. The vessel, painted
yellow, carries a black ball at the masthead, and has the name " Sourabaya "
painted on the side. When, for trimming the light, the lantern is hauled
down, the gong will be sounded, and a clear burning lantern hoisted tem-
porarily. She lies in lat. 6° 57' S., long. 112° 40' E., midway between white
buoys 2 and 3, which mark the western side of the Western Channel at the
North entrance to Sourabaya Strait. From her Panka Point bears W. by
N. 1 N. 5^ miles distant ; Cape Wodon or Madura, W. by S. ^ S. 8 miles
distant ; and Fort Erfprins S. by W. ^ W. 4J miles distant.

All vessels require pilots, and should anchor, or heave to, oflp Panka
Point, to wait for them. In the eastern monsoon a vessel may anchor
at the entrance of the New Channel, to wait for high water, if necessary, to
carry her over the bank, and the more so, because in this monsoon higli water
takes place in the morning. In the western monsoon high water occurs at
night, or in the evening, and when a high swell makes it unadvisable to an-
chor outside of the bank, it is better to do so under Panka Point, bringing
the flagstafE" to bear N.W. 1 or 1 J mile distant, in 3 or 4 fathoms.

To pass outside of the Zee Bank, keep the Little Square Mount (being the
western of the hills near Panka Point) W. by S. h S. open to the North of the
Coffins till at the entrance of the channel, taking care that the two Coffins are
in one, and appear to be as one long mountain ridge. To the eastward the
N.W. extremity of Madura, Cape Wodon, should not be brought to the
northward of East, in order to clear the Zee Bank, and the rocks of lamoeang,
which lie a little to the eastward of the channel, and which are covered by
the sea at high water.

Ships are sometimes detained xipon the bank or at the entrance of the
channel by the singular tides which prevail thei-e, and for which science has
not yet been able to account, or the pilots even to reduce to rule. In the
chart of the channels leading to Sourabaya, by Capt. M. H. Jansen, D.R.N.,
the depths are given at low water, and the following remarks are made on
the tides —

"During the months in which the sun is on or near the equator, i.e., in
March, April, September, and October, there are in this channel, at the fuU

I. A. 4 u

698 JAVA.

and change, two tides in the 24 hours ; but at the quarter moons, as well as
during all the other months, there is only one tide, and it makes low water
in the night with South declination, and in the day when the sun has North
declination.

" The greatest rise and fall of spring tides is 6 ft., and it occurs only in
those months when there is but one high water in the 24 hours, and 3 or 4
days after full and change. The least rise and fall is 4 ft., and this takes
place at the full and change also, but only in the months when there are the
two tides, which may be regarded as a change for the day high water to the
night high water, and vice versa. At the quarter moons of these months the
water rises about 5 ft., and in every other month 5| ft., above the depths
marked in this chart.*

" In the month of —

HOURS. HOURS.

May

it is high water between 9^

and Oi

June

„ Oi

July

„

August

„ 9

November

, 12i

December

„ 12

January

„ 12

February

„ 12

" At the spring tides, as well as at the quarter moons, it is high water
always at lOJ or 22| hours.

" During the months when the two tides occur, it is also high water at 10 5''
and 221''. These two tides are, however, different in height ; and when the
sun's declination is North, the morning tide is the highest ; but when it is
South, the evening tide. In those the quarters which give but one tide, give
the higher water as at full and change."

For more convenience, a stake will be erected at each side of the channel,
inside of the bank, indicating how many feet of water there is upon the
bank.

A vessel bound to Sourabaya may steer for the entrance of the chapnel
across the Zee Bank, as before directed. The land about Grissee slopes
gradually up from the eastward to Mount Gierie, but its western side is
abrupt. "When this steep western face of the mount bears S. by "W. ^ W.,
the trees of Menarie will be in the same direction, and this is the mark to
enter the channel with the courses of S. by W. J "W., S by W., and South.

When a Kttle way up channel, more trees will be seen on Menarie, and

* In most of the months there are 15 or 16 ft. water upon the bank, but when the sun
has no declination, or when it is very small, 14 ft., and 14 ft. at full and change.

STRAIT OF SOURABAYA. 699

they should be brought, as soon as they are visible, in one with that same
steep western side of Mount Grissee ; and at length, when the low point of
Menarie is entirely seen, keep it just open of the steep, and enter the strait
on that mark. If there be a commanding breeze, she may be kept more
towards Piering Point on the Madura side, because the Menarie Bank pro-
jects into the channel. In hazy weather, especially during the eastern mon-
soon, the Grissee hills are not always distinctly seen, but the buoys hereafter
described render that of less importance than formerly. In the eastern
monsoon, when high water happens between 8 o'clock a.m. and noon, and
the springs at 10 or 11 o'clock, the period when the land wind ceases and
the sea breeze has not yet set in, the best way is to work up with the land
wind towards the shoalest part of the bank, n order to make use of the
high water, when the sea breeze sets in. The current sets to the north-
ward immediately after high water, and therefore if vessels that are out-
ward bound can get with the land wind to this spot, they will be able in a
few tacks, with the sea breeze, to pass outside the bank.

The shoalest part of the Zee Bank channel is nearly level. On the shal-
lowest, in 1847, there were 10 ft., and with spring tides 16 ft. ; with common
tides it was 15 and 14 ft.

Generally the ground is so soft that a vessel receives no damage by remain-
ing aground there ; and there was an instance of a ship, drawing a quarter
of a foot more than the depth of the channel, passing over the bank.

In the western monsoon, when it is high water between 8 o'clock, p.m.,
and midnight, the sea breeze generally prevails ; in case of its being some-
what scant when going out, keep close along the western buoys, and then
one tack will carry you over the bank.

The directions given above will be found useful in studying the tides and
best time for entering the channel. We now proceed to describe the buoys,
and a few of the directions given above will be repeated.

Buoys. — The northern entrance channels to Sourabaya Strait are marked
by white buoys on their western sides, and by Hack buoys on their eastern
sides, or by white buoys to starboard, and black buoys to port, in entering.
The buoys are each surmounted by a staff and ball. The entrance to the
Western Channel, at 7 miles E. by N. of Panka Point, is marked on either
side by a white buoy and a black buoy, these buoys being 2 miles apart
E. by S. J S. and W. by N. ^ N. from each other. The white buoy, on the
western side of the channel, lies 7 miles nearly E. by N. \ N. from the flag-
staff on Panka Point, and N. k E. 3f miles from the new lightvessel.

The leading mark up the Western Channel is the western slope of Grissee
Hills, in line with the outer edge of the trees on Menarie, S. by W. ^ W.
This mark will lead up between the white buoys and the lightvessel (each
about 2 miles apart) on the westei-n side of the channel, and the black buoys
on the eastern side. By keeping to this mark a vessel will pass nearly a mile

700 JAVA.

eastward of the lightvessel, IJ mile eastward of Fort Erfprins, and 4 cables
outside the shoal water extending oflP that fort ; thence the course continued
will carry her in safety nearly up to Kresik.

The Eastern Channel is marked in a similar manner to the Western
Channel, but is much narrower, being only about half a mile across. It has
three white buoys on its western side, and three black buoys on its eastern
side ; the outermost buoy lying three-quarters of a mile E. by S. ^ S. from
the outer black buoy of the Western Channel, 9^ miles E. ^ N. of Panka
Point ; 5 miles W. ^ N. of Cape Wodon ; and N.E. J E. 4 miles from the
lightvessel. From a position midway between the outer buoys of this chan-
nel the course is S. by W. f W. for 4^ miles, thence from abreast the third
white buoy the course is more westerly, or about S.W. by S. for 3 miles into
the Eastern Channel, which is entered abreast Fort Erfprins. In proceedings
up this channel great laution is requisite to avoid the Dyamnang Pocks,
on the eastern side ; the second black buoy lies off their eastern side.
From abreast Fort Ei'fprins the leading mark previously given will lead up
the channel.

The Java Bank, abreast Fort Erfprins, is steep-to, shoaling suddenly from
15 to 2 or 3 feet. The channel is a mile wide, and if too fearful of the
Java Bank, you will be in danger of the Zee Bank ; and the more so, because
the stream from Solo River runs along the western side of the fort, and then
sets over to the Zee Bank. The most projecting part of the sand abreast
Fort Erfprins lies E. by S. | S. a mile from the fort, and can be easily cleared
by passing 2 cables outside of the white buoy, lying E. f N. from the fort,
and steering nothing westward of S. f W., the course previously recom-
mended for passing through the channel.

In the narrows of the strait a mark to avoid the Java side is the steep side
of Mount Grissee open of the low point of Menarie; and the mark for the
opposite shore, or Madura side, is the small house upon the pier-head of
Sembilangan, not open of the land. When a vessel has to enter these nar-
rows with a faint breeze, which is often the case, it is advisable to keep on
the Menarie side of the bank in 10 fathoms, because the stream setting out
of the Solo Piver has often so much force, particularly a little before low
water, that she may be swept by the united efforts of this current and the
stream from the old channel, across the strait, and compelled to anchor. In
the westerly monsoon it is also advisable to keep this side, to be certain to
fetch above the fishing-stakes, when the wind is scant.

When working through this part of the strait, stand over toward the Ma-
dura side into 7 fathoms, and to the Java side while the steep side of the
Grrissee mount is open of the Menarie land. Ships that anchor in the narrows
of the strait should do so under Sawo Point, 2 miles southward of Fort Erf-
prins, in not less than 10 fathoms, as in less water there are rocks under

STRAIT OF SOUEABAYA. 701

the mud, which would endanger the safety of the ship by the loss of the an-
chor. The stream is very strong in the narrows, especially to the northward.

The fishing-stakes which are found in this strait, and which are a great
obstruction both to its navigation and to the streams of tide, should be kept
all to the eastward ; pass them very near when going to the southward, and
make the Fourteen-feet Bank. "With a working wind the Madura shore may
be approached by keeping the lead briskly going till amongst the fishing-
stakes ; but on the other side be careful to keep the flagstaff of Fort Erfprina
open outside of the trees of Menarie, to avoid the steep Java Bank, which
fills up the whole space formed by the curve between Menarie and Grissee.
A red buoy marks the North side of an isolated 2 ^-fathom patch, in th©
middle of the strait, N. | E. 2 miles from Kresik light. This patch is about
2 cables across; Kresik light bearing S. f E. leads in mid-channel west-
ward of it.

In the beginning of the eastern monsoon, the northerly sea breeze with
which the Zee Bank has been crossed, wiU not blow farther than abreast of
Sembilangan ; and from thence to Boeloe Point, light baSiing winds will be
met with ; but when the easterly wind comes out from the bight of Sotja,
keep along the fishing-stakes, so as to make a good board to the southward
in working towards Sourabaya. In a more advanced stage of the eastern
monsoon the sea breeze will reach farther in, and will also be more northerly ;
80 much so that, generally in the afternoon, vessels run right before the wind
into Sourabaya. In the night the land wind blows from the West, and in
the morning more from the southward. In the western monsoon the land
wind varies between the N.W. and S.W., and towards the end of that
monsoon more northerly.

Kresik or Grissee is a noted trading place, being frequently visited by
coasting-vessels, which keep up a brisk trade ; many of the Indian ships were
built there, and it affords good means for repairing them. A pier projects for a
considerable distance, and close to this pier is the usual anchorage.

K fixed bright light is shown at the pier-head of Kresik, elevated 42 feet,
and visible 8 miles off.

From Grissee to Sourabaya the course is S.E. and S.E. by E., and close to
two rocks situated near the Madura shore, called the Bujfels Rocks {^-aSsLloes),
the outermost of which is seldom covered by the sea, even at high water
The Madura shore may be approached by the lead till near the Buffels, and
these rocks may be approached till within half a mile. The Java Bank,
near the Pisang Hocks (which are marked by a white buoy on their
northern side), is steep-to, the depth increasing towards them to 8 or 9
fathoms, and in some places near their edge to 10 or 11 fathoms; they
are always covered, and on their shoalest part there is but a foot of water.
They nearly touch the steep bank of Java, S.AV. by W. from the Buffels.
To keep clear of the Pisangs, do not bring Tanjongun Point to the eastward

702 JAVA.

of North, and tack immediately when the water deepens, as that indicates
the proximity of this bank. The current sets direct on these rocks, for which
reason it is advisable in calms and light winds to remain near the Madura
shore, if possible ; but when once past the Pisangs and Buflfels, both shores
may be approached to 7 fathoms till in Sourabaya Roads.

SOERABAYA, Sourabaya, or Surabaya, is in the southern part of the
Strait of Madura, and, with the exception of that of Tjilatjap on the South
coast, is the only sheltered harbour that Java possesses, the others being
only open roadsteads.

It is the stronghold of Java, and the Dutch government have spent larg»
sums in fortifying. It is a port of call for the Netherlands^ India Steam
Navigation Company's boats. The ground on which the town stands is a
flat alluvium, of recent formation, and surrounded by marshy land, which is
penetrated by the sea. A river, called the Kali-Maas (river of gold), the
source of which is at a considerable distance in the interior of the island,
separates into two branches just before reaching the town. While one of
its streams divides Sourabaya into two equal parts, the other just enters it^
and falls into the sea about half a mile to the East of the former. The
principal branch is straitened from Sourabaya to the sea. The current in it
is very strong, and always running down ; the flood or ebb stream being
neither of them felt, except by producing a difi'erence of level.

This canal is the high road of intercourse between the roadstead and the
town, which is accessible to all vessels of less than 12 ft. draught. Boats are
tracked up against the stream, and on the left bank of the river is a track
road for the purpose.

Besides a strong citadel built at the entrance of the town on the right bank
of the river, there is an enciente with bastions, entirely surrounding the town
on all sides. This enceinte is very wide ; but the importance of the town
must not be judged by its dimensions, for there are no houses of stone ex-
cepting those along the quays, and these are only about 300 or 400 yards on
each side of the canal. The rest of the enclosure is filled one-half by swamps
and the other by the straw huts of the Malays.

The left bank of the canal is reserved for the houses of Europeans and
the various government establishments; the right bank is occupied by the.
Arabs and Chinese. The Europeans who live there are generally military
and civil functionaries of the government and some small merchants, who
have only their houses of business in the town, their dwelling-houses being
outside of the enceinte. It is the same with those carrying on business, wha
do not employ more than two hours at their office. All these buildings are
scattered towards the river South of Sourabaya, and extend to 2 or 3 miles
from the centre of the town.

There is an excellent Marine Establishment and good Hospital at Soura-
baya. There were, iu 1870, several private establishments for the repair of

STRAIT OF SOURABATA. 703

fillips, but all on the primitive heaving down system. The Government
Floating Docks are excellently managed, but merchant vessels can seldom
get access to them. A time hall is in operation at the Marine Establishment,
longitude 112° 43' 30" E.

Vessels may at once embark their cargoes without employing proas ; and
all sorts of supplies and refreshments are to be had in abundance, especially
fresh water, which is filtered and purified, and carried on board in tanks, in
the same manner as at Baiavia.

The river is broad and elongated by two piers ; and at high water there
is sufiBcient depth for large proas and square-rigged coasting vessels, which
come in to be careened and repaired. At low water, however, great care is
requisite in entering the river, even with boats, there being sometimes only
a foot of water upon the bank, and if not kept just in the mid-channel,
they may be upset by the current. The road is esteemed to be very healthy,
and afiFords, in all seasons, proper and safe berths for vessels of all sizes.

The anchorage is about half a mile North, or N.N.W. from the entrance
of the river, in 9 fathoms water, Grissee bearing about N.W. by W. In the
western monsoon it is better to anchor a little farther out in stifi'er holding
ground, and also to moor.

Vessels staying longer than 24 hours in Soerabaya Roads are compelled
to moor with sufficient scope of cable, and clear of other shipping, under a
penalty of 100 florins for vessels above 100 tons burden, or of 25 florins for
smaller vessels. (Ordinance, March 28, 1862.)

The land is low fronting the strait, but at a considerable distance in the
interior there are some high mountains, of which the principal peaks are
the Penang, S. by W. \ W., distant 26 miles, 5,495 ft. high ; Ardjoeno, S. by
W. i W., distant 36^ miles, 11,627 ft. high; and Setniroe, S. by E., 55^ miles,
12,385 ft. high.

The Solo Elver, which discharges its water into the strait of Sourabaya
at a distance of 2 miles W.S.W. from Fort Erfprins, is one of the largest
and deepest rivers of the Isle of Java, and is navigated by large proas far
into the interior. In 1841 a part of this river, with the shoals at its entrance,
was surveyed by Lieut. Groll, commander H.N.M. iron steamer £tna. He
states that the channel, from the southward of Fort Erfprins to the entrance,
leads close along the shore of Menarie, and at low water in from 3 to H
fathoms in depth. Upon the bank which runs along the North side of this
channel there are, at low water, but 5^ or 6 ft., and part of it dries ; it con-
sists in some places of sand, and in others of mud, but higher up of clay and
mud. The depth is greater inside than outside the entrance, amounting in
many places towards the village Boenga to 5 and 7 fathoms. In the eastern
monsoon the flood streams up as far as Boenga, and at Bodjo Negors the
water is brackish and unpalatable. In the western monsoon there is more

704 JAVA.

water in the river, and, according to the natives, the current in this season
always sets down.

MADURA ISLAND.

The North Coast of Madura, and the channels eastward, were surveyed,
in 1822, by Lieut. F. A. Fokke, of the Dutch Eoyal Navy. The whole of
the North coast of this island may be safely approached, there being at the
distance of 1 mile 4 or 5 fathoms depth, at 2 or 3 miles 7 to 9 fathoms, and
6 to 8 miles 15 to 20 fathoms, and 16 to 20 miles 30, 40, and 45 fathoms, for
the most part good holding ground.

This coast is moderately elevated, and except for some hills near its
western end, of a uniform height ; it has generally a fertile appearance, with
some rocky sand patches at its eastern extremity. A fresh-water place is
said to be not far from the East end.

BAWEAM" or Bavian or Lubec Island bears due North from Sourabaya
Strait, and its centre lies in 5° 49"" S., and 112° 42' E., according to the mean
of several chronometric observations. It is of considerable extent, being
North and South 9 J miles, and East and West 10 miles; towards the centre
and West end very high ; and having some small islands on both sides. It
is dangerous to approach from the eastward, on account of extensive rocky
shoals, which reach 6 to 10 miles off, and near which there are 25 and 30
fathoms water. The outermost of these is the extensive group of the Tam-
haga Roeks, which show, and lie about 10 miles E.N.E. of the peak of Ba-
wean Island. These rocks form a group 2 or 3 miles in extent, and are the
northernmost of the patches lying off the East side of Bawean. Separated
from them by a channel, 1^ mile wide, is another patch, 2 miles in extent.
North and South. These are separated from Lor Island (1^ mile off the
East extreme of Bawean) and its surrounding dangers by a channel 1^ mile
in width. Bungarang Reef, under water, lies 4 miles S.E. of Lor Island.
The channels within these reefs are of doubtful safety. The South, West,
and North coasts of the island should not be approached within 2 miles, ex-
cept with great caution, as many sunken rocks lie off its shores. Noko Reef
lies S.E. from the peak of Bawean, l| mile off shore.

Sankapoera.—Th.Q principal place in this island is Sanka Poera, or Sanca
Poura, on the shore of a bay, in its southern coast. There is good anchorage
in this bay, in 7 to 10 fathoms water, between the reefs, the western ex-
tremity of the bay, Alang Point, which is high and conspicuous, bearing
from West to W.S.W. There are several reefs in this bay, which stretch

GILIANG. 705

air^ross from both sides, and therefore a stranger should not bring Alaug
Point to the southward of W. ^ 8.

W.S.W. i W., 3 or 4 miles from Alang Point, Lieut. Fokke discovered a
ledge of rocks, carrying from 5 to 9 fathoms, but suddenly rising from the
depth of 30 fathoms ; and the Uromo found another at the same distance
from that point, but bearing from 8. by W. ^ W. to S. by E. f E., with 7
to 9 fathoms.

Miltoti Rock, 4 miles westward of Bawean Island, was found by Mr. George
Butchard, in 1876, to consist of coral, to extend about 270 yards in a N.W.
and S.E. direction, and to have 16 ft. on its shoalest part, deepening all
round to 4^ and 6 fathoms, and then to 18 fathoms. The following bearings
for the position of this danger are given by Mr. Butchard : — S.W. point of
Bawean Island, S.E. by E. ; North point of Bawean Island (Tienio Point),
N.E. by E. ; Small Islet (Nusa), N.E. ^ N. These bearings place the rock
in lat. 5° 44' S., long. 112° 33' E.

Nusa Island and Rock, the rock lying about a mile N.W. from the islet,
are about 4 miles N.N.E. of Milton Eock, and 4 miles westward of Tienio
Point, the N.W. extreme of Bawean Island. S.W. and N.E. of Tienio
Point dangers lie at the distance of a mile.

The Hastings Eock, upon which the British ship the Marquis of Hastings
Btruck, May 27, 1826, lies in 6° 6' S. and 112'' 32' E., with the summit of the
island of Bawean bearing N.E. by N., 20 miles distant. The rock is not
visible, and probably but very small.

Nahmen's or Oosterling Eock or Ircakers were seen from the Dutch barque
Oosterling, March 22, 1855, at about 25 miles N.W. of the centre of Bawean.
It was not sounded on, but it appeared to be in lat. 5° 33' S., long, 112° 28' E.

The Arrogant Eeef, in 5° 12' S., and 113° 0' E. by a mean of the chrono-
meters of H.M.S. Arrogant, and those of the Dover Castle, which agreed
within 4 minutes of arc, lies about 11 leagues N.N.E., of Bawean, having
been dif covered, in 1802, by the former ship. It was examined by the boats,
and found to extend about a quarter of a mile N.W. and S.E. with only 5 or
6 ft. water, where they could approach in safety from the breakers. There
were from 5 to 12 and 25 fathoms round it at the distance of a cable's
length. This reef is just in the track of ships from Batavia to Macassar &c.

GILIANG or Pondi is a small flat island, in 7° S., and 114° 10' 48" E.,
and about 3 miles East from the East point of Madura. The passage be-
tween them has from 5 to 16 fathoms water, soft ground, but is a very narrow-
channel, occasioned by the shoal spit which projects from the East point of
Madura, and upon the edge of which there are but 3 fathoms. A small
shoal, with 3^ fathoms water, lies a mile AVest from the North point of
I. A. 4 2:

706 JAVA.

(xiliang ; and a large bank with U fathom shoalest water stretches North
and N.N.E. as far as 3 miles from the East point of Madura.

Tamlaga Rock. — The two dangerous rocks of Tambaga, according to
Lieutenant Fokke, lie 4 miles East from Sarotak Point, the south-eastern
angle of~Talango Island ; N.E. by N. from Lawak ; and S. by W. ^ W.
from Giliang. At low water, these rocks are even with the water's edge,
and lie about a mile distant from each other, with 10, 20, and 24 fathoms
close to. A third and very dangerous rock, previously known to exist, lies
rather above a mile to the South of them. Its position was ascertained by
Captain Gaeter, D.E.N. , in the steamer i^raa^, in 1867. The British ship
JEdendale was wrecked on it. It has only 14 ft. water, and bears S.E. by E.
from the westerly Tambaga Eeef and S.W. \ S. from the eastern one, Gili
Lawak bearing S.W. westerly.

A. fifteen- feet patch lies a cable southward of the Tambaga Rocks.

Four miles N.E. of these Tambaga Rocks there is another, which was
discovered, in 1822, by Lieut. Fokke, and named, after the vessel he com-
manded, the Jacoba Fltzabeth ; but it need not be avoided by ships, as the
shoalest water upon it is 7 fathoms, with 22 and 50 fathoms all round.

SAPOEDIE ISLAND, the Galioen, or Respondi, of the old charts, lies
between 7° 3' and 7° 10^' S., and the West point in 114° 19' E. ; it is larger
and higher than Giliang. Both are well cultivated, and bear a fertile and
pleasant aspect. About 5 miles to the N.N.E. of the N.E. end of Sapoedie
is Pandyang, a small island with two small islets, lying within 9 miles west-
ward from it. North 3 miles from the centre of the three islets, and N.E. f N.
of the West point of Sapoedie is a 6-fathom bank, discovered in 1864 by
Capt. Kuffeler.

Sapoedie Strait, or the channel between Sapoedie and Giliang, is 6 miles
wide, and the usual track for vessels bound to the Strait of Bali. Besides
the above-described rocks of Tambaga and Jacoba, there are no dangers ;
and though the soundings are very irregular, varying from 10 to 30 fathoms,
yet it is a very good channel, and preferable either to that West of Giliang,
or East of Sapoedie. South of Sapoedie the depths increase rapidly to 50
and 100 fathoms ; and the course to be steered to Cape Sedano is about
S. by E.

There is a safe channel to the eastward of Sapoedie, with moderate depths
between it and the isle of Ra-as (Great Hog Island). Lieutenant Boedrie,
in H.N.M. schooner Iris, found a rocky shoal, upon which were but 2 fathoms.
This spot bore W. i S. from Sarok Island and N. ^ E. from the West point
of Ra-as. The shoal is round, about a cable's length in diameter, and very
dangerous for all vessels passing through this channel from Sumanap to
Kangeang or Macassar.

Lawak, or Turtle Island, lies in lat. 7° 12' 20" S., and long. 114° 3' E.
It is a small sandy island, covered with trees, and discernible 8 miles ofiP.

SUMANAP. 707

Between this island and the extremity of the long neck projecting from Gin-
tang Island, 6 miles to the westward, are two rocks above water, E.N.E.
and W.S.W., 1| mile apart. The easternmost lies 2 miles West of Lawak,
and has a sunken rock just West of it. The western rock has a sunken
danger on its eastern side.

SUMANAP (the Flagstaff) lies in 7° 2' 30" S., and 113° 55' E. It is a
considerable town, and furnishes fresh water and provisions of all kinds.
The adjacent country abounds with rice and timber, several coasting traders
being built here. The bay is margined by a soft mud bank, so that ships
are obliged to anchor at a great distance from the shore. Large ships
anchor in 5 or 5^ fathoms, 4 or 5 miles from the fort. Small vessels anchor
more in shore, about 2 J miles from Sumanap, in 3 fathoms, mud.

Ships coming from the southward, and intending to touch at Sumanap,
should first make Lawak, pass on its eastern side, and stand along the South
side of Talango for the anchorage. The passage between Lawak and Gen-
ting is not to be recommended, on account of the above-mentioned rocks ;
nor should Gintang, or Genting, be approached too near on its northern
side, as two rocks, Noko and Gemer, lie 1^ and 1 mile from it ; both, how-
ever, are above water, and discernible at some distance. The channel lead-
ing to Sumanap, between Gintang and Radja, is safe, with 19 to 8 fathoms
water ; but a berth of about a mile should be given to these islands on both
sides, as reefs project nearly to that distance. Channel passed, steer N.E.
by E., in 8 fathoms depth, close round the South point of the bay, for the
anchorage. The extremity of the reef off the West side of Gintang is marked
by a white buoy with mast and ball, and that off the East end of Radya by a
Hack buoy with mast and ball.

Along the Madura coast there is in most places soft mud, except upon the
reef near the East point ; but among the islands there will generally be
found hard sand or rock at the bottom. Lieutenant Fokke gives the time of
high water, in the middle of the East monsoon, at noon ; but in November
about midnight. In common tides the rise is 5 ft., and at springs 7 or 8 ft.
Sometimes he experienced a current among the islands, of 2^ miles per
hour.

Gilingan Island lies S.W. 2^ miles from the West end of Radya, and
S.E. li mile from it is Guntur Rock. A doubtful patch lies S.E. ^ S. 2 J
miles from Gilingan, and a 9-ft. rock was reported by the Merapie to lie in
lat. V 18' S., long. 113° 54' E., with Genting Island bearing N. ^ W. to
N.E. ^ N. This latter patch is not marked on the Admiralty chart.

Boender and Tiandie are two places in a bight of the South coavst of
Madura, about 6 leagues West of Sumanap. These places are sometimes
visited by trading ships, to take in salt, which they produce in abundance.
A great many dangerous rocks and reefs lie in this bay, and make it neces-
sary to approach it with caution, the more so as the fishing stakes indicating

705 JAVA.

their position being sometimes washed away by the sea, no implicit reliance
can be placed on them.

In the eastern monsoon the tide sets N.W. and S.E., and in the western
monsoon E.N.E. and "W.S.W. In common tides the rise is 4J ft., and in
the springs 8 or 8^ ft.

KANGEANG. — A chain of small islets and rocks stretch eastward of Sa-
poedie as far as Karigeang, an extensive island, the N.W. point of which i«
in 6° 50' 30" S., and 115° 12' E. In former charts all these island were re-
presented very incorrectly, but the observations of yarious officers of the Dutch
navy have made the islands better known.

The north-western part of Kangeang is high and rugged, but clothed with
trees ; the eastern point is less high, with a more even appearance ; and in the
S.W. part the land is low and bushy. It is a very fertile island, governed
by the Sultan of Sumanap, and scantily peopled ; but visited by trading
proas from Baly, Sumanap, and Bawean. Sometimes this island is subject
to invasions. Near the N.W. point of Kangeang lies the small iaiand of
Manpoeriet, or Manropet, which is of considerable height, and visible as far as
that N.W. point, i.e., in clear weather, about 8 or 9 leagues ; and it is sur-
rounded by a coral reef, which projects at the N.W. and W.N.W. sidea
about 3 miles. Between Manpoeriet and the N.W, side of Kangeang, there
is a bay of a mile wide, in which are several rocks, one of which, a danger-
ous coral patch of 3^ fathoms, lies with Manpoeriet West point bearing'
N.W., and Katapang flagstaff W. and E. ^ S. The village of Katapang is
situated in this bay. According to Lieutenant Jolly, a ship having cleared
the reef of Manpoeriet, may steer mid-channel into the bay, till Manpoeriet
bears North, when a good anchorage will be found in 10 fathoms depth.
This is a fair and safe berth in the S.E, monsoon, and it is not advisable for
large ships to stand farther in, as coral reefs project in some places a mile
off shore. There are some refreshments to be had there, and a liitle good
water may be found in two wells upon the beach. In the N.W. monsoon a
large ship will not obtain shelter against hard winds and high seas,

Kamirian, or TJrk Island, in 7° 2' 15" S., and 115° 12' E., or 8° 24' E. of
Batavia, is of a circular form, very woody, not very high, with a sandy beach
all round, but which projects most to the westward. The passages on both
Bides of Kamirian are safe, with 40 and 50 fathoms depth in the middle, 25
near the island, and 15 and 10 on the Kangeang side. These passages are
of importance to ships coming from Australia and bound to Singapore or
Bengal, and are often preferred to Salayer Strait when coming from Banda
or the Moluccas, in the strength of the East monsoou, and going to Batavia,
The passage to the eastward of Kamirian is 4 miles wide, and has no dan-
gers, as the reefs project from the S.W. point of Kangeang about a mile
only ; and the passage West of Kamirian between it and Takat, is at least

KAXGEAXG GTTOUF. 109

A miles wide, and has no dangers, the reefs on either side showing- their
edges by the discolouration of the water.

Karang Takat Bank, sometimes called the Four Brothers, is an extensive
coral shoal, which stretches E.S.E. and W.N.W. for a length of 4 leagues,
with three dry patches, elevated 2 or 3 ft. above low water. These patches
are called by the natives Takat Oomoh, Takat Fimor, and Takat Tinga ; two of
them are near the extreme ends, and one in the middle of the bank. Ac-
cording to Lieutenant Boedrie, in 1827, and Captain Machielson, in 1834,
the southernmost part of the bank bears about W. ^N. from Kamirian, and
the northernmost part of it S.W. by W. i W. from the N.W. point of Kan-
geang. This shoal is very steep-to, as Lieut. Gregory, who passed very
near it in 1836, in H.N.M corvette Boreas, states that at the distance of half
a mile E.N.E. from its north-westernmost point he had 39 fathoms, and at
half a mile from its S.E. point, Urk Island bearing E. by S., there was no
bottom with 45 fathoms. With a good look-out at the mast-head, this
dangerous shoal will be discernible at a considerable distance by the colour
of the water, except when in the direction of the sun.

The passage West of Takat, between it and the small islands of Kamoedie
and Goa, is about 3 or 4 leagues wide, and is said to be safe ; but as but little
is known about this channel, the utmost care and prudence is to be recom-
mended to vessels proceeding through it.

The English ship Ma7j, in 1843, passed close to the southward of Ea-as
and of the islands to the eastward of it, and struck upon a coral rock there,
with only 13 ft. According to the account of her captain (Gait), it lies 5 miles
S.E. by E. from Little Ea-as, or Tund Island, and 6 miles S. by W. from
Goa. There is also a rock between Timd and Ea-as.

Dangers Northward of Kangeang. — At 3 miles N.N.W. of Manropit
Island is a sunken rock, and 15 miles westward of that island is another sunken
rock of doubtful position, but placed on the chart in lat. 6° -50' S., long,
114° 51' E. Sumhing Reef, of 3 fathoms, discovered in 1863, is marked on
the chart 6 miles North of the North side of Kangeang Island, in lat.
6° 42' S., long. 115° 22' E. At 15i miles N. ^ E. of Sumbing Eeef is a 4^-
fathom patch, and N.E. by N. 11 miles from this patch is /*r2'wc(? i/awr/^s
Reef, in lat. 6= 20' S., long. 115° 31' E. A spot 4 miles long East and West,
■with 9 and 10 fathoms water over it, lies in lat. 6° 5' S., long. 115° 12' to
115° 16' E.

Kalkun or Turkey Islands, five in number, are low, and their locality little
known. A passage between them and Kangeang has been used, but is also
little known. The southern island is surrounded by rocks to the distance of
3 miles all round, and lies 13 miles N. by E. of the East end of Kangean^
Island, in lat. 6= 43' S., long. 115° 41' E. It is 2 miles in length East and
West. Two of the islands lie N.W. h N., at the distance of 5 and 10 miles
from the East end of the South Turkey Island, and a sunken rock lies in

710 JAVA.

the same direction 6 miles from the outer island, and 1 1 miles South of
Prince Maurits Eeef, The other two islands lie at 11 miles N.N.E., and 15
miles N.E. by N. from the South Turkey.

Looper Reef, of coral, in lat. 6° 28' S., long. 115° 55' E., and 10 miles
E.N.E. from the N.E. Turkey Island, has 2f fathoms water on it, and was
discovered by Capt. Looper, E.D.N.

Belliqueux Reef is the old name for all this locality. A 4i-fathom patch
lies 12 miles E.S.E. of Looper Reef, and thence the water is considered dan-
gerous westward of a line extending 25 miles to the southward to Sakala or
Sastings Island, which lies 20 miles N.E. of the East end of Pandyang
Island, the easternmost of the Kangeang Group.

A roclc is marked in lat. 6° 34' S., long. 116° 44' E., 38 miles N.E. by K
of Sakala Island, and 45 miles E. ^ S. of Looper Reef

Peterborough Shoal, in lat. 6° 87', long. 115° 5H', was discovered by a vessel
of that name in 1871. The shoal appeared to be a narrow coral shoal, lying
in au East and West direction. It was steep-to, and from it the N.E.
Turkey Island, distant 10 miles N.W. by N., was just visible.

Cyclops Reef is marked in Dutch charts in lat. 6° 48' S , long. 115° 44' E.
It has 4J fathoms water, and lies S.S.E. 7^ miles from the South Turkey
Island. Sedulang Shoal lies 6 miles eastward of it, and 10 miles N. \ E. of
an islet of the same name. There are no reefs yet discovered between Sedu-
lang Shoal and the islets lying off the Kangeang Group, or in the space of
9 miles southward of Cyclops Reef and Sedulang Shoal.

( 711 )

MADURA STRAIT.

Vessels bound from Sourabaja to the Strait of Madura will find pilots at
Passueroean. There are two channels ; the Jansen Channel, to the westward,
is well buoyed, and leads along the Java shore ; while the Old Channel
(Trechter), lying more to the eastward, passes close to the Gezonken (sunken)
Fort, commonly called Daendels Fort, and is not buoyed. But before we
enter either of those channels, it will be satisfactory to give some remarks
upon the tides in the Trechter, which afi'ect them both equally.

The Tides in many parts of these seas are attended with considerable
peculiarities and difficulties, and none more so than those which psss through
the Trechter. They have been carefully investigated and elaborately de-
scribed by Capt. M. H. Jansen, D.E.N. ; but for the general purpose of these
instructions the following briefly-stated facts will probably be sufficient. It
has been seen that on the Zee Bank there are for a few months two tides in
the 24 hours, but that, for the major part of the year, there is only one hicrh
water in that interval ; in the Trechter, on the contrary, there are always
two distinct tides, though they differ materially in height, according to the
sun being North or South of the equator. Secondly, the rise and fall of the
water in the Trechter, springs and neaps, are 8;^ and 5^ ft. ; which, being
much greater than the corresponding rise and fall on the Zee Bank, it fol-
lows that the stream sets to the northward through the Trechter from two
hours after high water, a circumstance very favourable to vessels enterino-
from the southward, and equally troublesome to those that are bound to the
eastward from Sourabaya.

The JANSEN CHANNEL, above mentioned, is liable to change, and
therefore no permanent directions can be depended on for it. But the Dutch
Government have well buoyed this channel in the early part of 1867, with
hlack Herbert's buoys on its western side, and wldte buoys on its eastern side.
The channel is about three-quarters of a mile wide at its northern end, and
1^ mile wide between the buoys at its southern end. The northern black
buoy lies 3 miles East of Sourabaya, and 3 cables N.E. of Kalabang-
kang Point; between this black buoy and the outermost white buoy,
three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. of it, is the northern entrance of Jansen
Channel. Thence the course is about S.E. by S. for 7^ miles, till the outer
edge of the trees on the Java shore come in Hne with the south-western
slope of Madura bearing N. W., which is the mark for leading out of the
South end of the channel.

Between the black buoy at the northern entrance, and the outer black
buoy at the southern entrance of Jansen Channel, the distance is 14 miles,
and, including these two buoys, the western side of the channel is marked by
nine black buoys. From the southernmost black buoy the eouthernmost

712 JAVA.

white buoy on the opposite side of the channel bears N. J W., distant 3
miles. The eastern side of the channel is marked by seven white buoys, all
on Herbert's principle except the northernmost.

Jansen Channel, outward boimd. — When bound to the eastward from Sou-
rabaya, steer E. by N. to clear the Java Bank, which is steep-to, keeping
the end of the Navy-yard to the southward of W. by S. If beating out, do
not approach the Madura shore nearer than 7 fathoms ; and on the Java side
tack immediately that there is less water than 8 or 9 fathoms. If compelled
to anchor, avoid doing so near Madura, as the bottom there is rocky. An
8-ft shoal, marked by a white buoy, lies some distance off the shore ;
from it the 7-fathom line is sufficient security. In steering towards the
northern entrance of the Jansen Channel, keep as near as can be done with
safety to the Java Bank, in order to haul in close round the buoy off the
point of Kalaban ; for the eastern stream, instead of bending round the
buoy, sets across the channel and upon the Tongue, which is the name of the
long shoal that forms the eastern side of the Jansen Channel. When once
in the channel the stream takes its direction. The depths in the Jansen
Channel gradually decrease from 6 and 7 fathoms between the buoys at its
North entrance to 2^ fathoms between the buoys at its South entrance, and
midway between these depths there is only 18 ft. water. Deeply laden
vessels are, therefore, obliged to anchor there, and wait for high water.
Along the whole length of the Tongue the banks are steep-to on both sides,
and therefore, when working, vessels should tack short of the line of the
stakes ; and indeed in the narrow part of the channel, 3 miles within its
North entrance, although a mile in breadth, it is advisable for them to drive
with the tide, which runs there with great velocity — even 8 knots it has been
asserted. The Java Bank, to the southward of this, is a little more gradual
in its slope, but still too steep to make free with ; and the Kletta Rocks, though
buoyed, should not be approached without great caution. Still farther to the
southward, the edges of the banks become flatter, and vessels may borrow
on them by the lead.

OLD TRECHTER CHANNEL. — Vessels proceeding from Sourabaya by
this channel, pass pretty close to the S.AV. side of Daendels Fort, a large
collection of stones, brought there for the purpose of building a fortress
which should command the Pass, and thrown into the water. There is a red
buoy off these dangerous stones. The channel leads along the S. W. side of
the fort, and this is its narrowest and shallowest part, as no more than 2 fa-
thoms depth will be found at low water. The rise and fall of the tides is in
this place three-quarters to 1 J fathom. From off the fort the Zadelberg Hills
on Madura will be seen bearing N. W. ^ N., N.N. W., and N.N.E. The eastern-
most is the highest of the three, and may be distinguished by two conspicuous
trees at its foot ; this hill is the great mark for the inlots throughout the
strait ; the middle one is not so high, and seems chiefly to be composed of

KOKO REEF, OR ZWAANTJES DROOGTE. 713

high trees ; the westernmost is also of moderate height, and resembles a
saddle more than the others. This passage should never be attempted with-
out a pilot.

When leaving Sourabaya Road with a fair wind the course is E.N.E. to
the Madura shore, in order to clear the mud bank which projects a consider-
able distance off the Java shore, East from the river, leaving nothing but a
small channel between the two banks, and also to avoid the indraught of the
Jansen Channel.

The land breeze seldom reaches far off shore, and therefore when leaving
Sourabaya beat up along, in the eastern monsoon, the Madura shore, and
borrow on the Java side only as near in as 9 fathoms ; the mud-bank being
here steep-to. To beat to the eastward, except with an eastern stream, is
impossible ; and, therefore, the Jansen Channel, throughout which the land
breeze prevails, is by far the most eligible during the eastern monsoon.

When past Daendels Fort, proceed S.E. by S. and S.E., till it bears
N.N.W. ^ W., 4 miles distant, when the three hills of Zadelberg will be
visible at the East side of the fort. Between the sunk fort and Passaroean
a mud bank projects a considerable distance off shore, with a dangerous
knoll, called the Slatan, which makes it advisable not to borrow on the Java
shore nearer than 7 or 6 fathoms. A ship should also mind the dangers
S.W. of Kambing Island, presently described, especially when working to
the southward.

Passaroean. — To touch at Passaroean, the pilots have a mark of four or
five conspicuous trees, in the vicinity of the town, and the mark for standing
into the road is, or was, a small dark bush, at the mouth of the river, near a
single house, bearing S. i E. The anchorage is 3 or 4 miles N.N.E. to N.E.
from the flagstaff, and N.W. by W. f W. or W.N.W. from Warangan Point,
in 5 or 6 fathoms, mud. Pilots may be procured here for Sourabaya.

A red light is, or is to be, shown from a lamp-post at Passaroean, lat.
7° 37' S., long. 112° 55' E.

Kambing Island lies in 7° 19' 36" S. and 113° 12' 40" E. ; it is about a
mile in extent, woody, not high, but visible in clear weather at the distance
of 4 or 5 leagues. It is surrounded by a coral reef, close to which there are
from 14 to 20 fathoms, and then shoaling gradually toward Madura into 4
fathoms. At 2 miles West from the West end of Kambing is a sand-hank.

A small sJwal of IJ cable, bears S.W. by S., 2 miles from the West
point of Kambing Island. There were 4 ft. water upon it at the time, being
half tide, and therefore at low water 2 ft. It seems to correspond in place
with that laid down in some charts as the Eabeljaauw Bank.

KOKO EEEF, or ZWAANTJES DROOGTE.— A coral reef of half a mile
in breadth, called by the natives Koko, and by the Dutch Zwaanijes JDroogte ;
one part of it is always in sight, and consists of white sandstone. In 1855
I. A. 4 Y

714 JAVA.

a conspicuous iron screw pile beacon was erected on it, this is now super-
seded by the lighthouse, from which the outer buoy of the channel is visible,
so that it is an excellent mark.

LIGHTHOUSE. — The lighthouse on Koko Eeef, completed in 1872, ex-
hibits a revolving Iright light, at an elevation of 54 ft. above the sea. The
lio-ht appears as a fixed bright light for 1^ minute, and in the succeeding
half minute shows a flash of 10 seconds duration, preceded and followed by
an eclipse of 10 seconds. The flashes are visible about 14 miles off. In
foggy weather, or if the light is out of order, a hell is sounded. The follow-
ing dangers lie near the lighthouse.

Manilla Roch, or bank under water, two ships' lengths in extent, bears
S.W. by S. and S.W. J W. from the extremities of Kambing Island, 3 or 4
miles distant, having 2 fathoms water on its shoalest part, and 16 fathoms
between it and that island.

Sirumpa Rock is 5 miles N.W. by N. from Koko lighthouse.

Bur a Rock, with a sand-bank, is about Ij or 2 miles in extent, and
bears N.W. f N. 5 miles from Koko Reef, and about S.W. by W. 11
miles from Kambing. Upon the shoalest part there is 3 ft. water.

Eendragt Shoal. — A small rocky shoal, discovered in 1841 by Capt. H. H.
Deuling, in the Dutch barque Eendragt, with the Koko bearing W. by N., 5
miles distant, and the island of Kambing N. ^ E.

Ships bound to the eastward from Passaroean should generally make
their easting along the Java shore, in order to profit by the land and sea
breezes, which blow with more regularity and strength than on the Madura
side ; besides which, if becalmed or set to the westward by the current, they
may anchor on the Java side. In the eastern monsoon, during the day S.E.
by E. and E.N.E. winds prevail ; in the night commonly a brisk S.S.W. or
S.W. land breeze, and often in the forenoon followed by light baffling winds
and calms. In the western monsoon, N.N.W. and W.S.W. winds blow very
hard, sometimes declining in the evening, and often veering to S.W. and
S.S.W. in the night ; the current generally runs East or West, but that de-
pends on the prevailing wind.

The winds, however, in the Strait of Madura, are more variable than on any
other part of the coasts of Java and Madura, arising not only from the con-
traction of the passage, but, perhaps, from the influence upon the atmosphere
of the several high mountains, among which are some active volcanoes, in the
eastern part of Java. Very frequently variable and suddenly shifting winda
and squalls are experienced in this strait.

A reef, called the Karang Katang, was discovered by Captain Kingdom, in
the Dutch ship Liederika. It lies in the bay between Warangan Point and
Probolingo, about 2| miles off shore, with Probolingo West harbour point
S. J E., and Gunong Lores E. | S. It is very small, and has 3f fathoms
least water, surrounded by depths of 9^ fathoms.

KATAPANG, OR KRABBEN ISLAND. 715

KATAPANG, or Krabben Island, in 7' 41' S., and 113° 16' 10 E., is not
high, but woody ; about a mile East and West, and half a mile North and
South. It is surrounded by a broad coral reef, which projects fully a mile
to the eastward, with 15 fathoms close to its East and N.E. sides, and 10
fathoms at the West and S.W. sides. When not bound to Probolingo, or
to one of the adjacent places, keep well to the northward of Katapang, but
at the same time giving a good berth to Eendragt Reef.

A ship may safely approach the Java shore till Mount Eingit bears South,
as no dangers have been found on the coast to the westward of it, except a
little to the eastward of Cape Bedoelang, where there seems to be a shoal 2
miles from the shore. H.N.M. schooner Argo struck on it in September,
1846. It may be the same as that examined by Lieutenant Toutenhoofd,
which lies above half a mile off the most projecting point between Bezoekie
and Bedoelan, called Tanjong Binor. The reef is called Karang Krantjie, is
awash, and from it Gunong Laros bears S. ^ E.

PROBOLINGO flagstaff is in 7° 44' 30' S., and 113° 12' E. The town
lies in a bight of the coast, opposite Katapang, that island bearing N.E. f N.,
Warangan Point W.N.W., and Mount Lamongan S.S.E. ^ E. It is an open
port for exports only. The coast may be approached in this bight safely,
with due attention to the lead, there being at 2 miles distance 4 to 6 fathoms,
at 3 miles 7 and 8 fathoms, and so on, gradually increasing. A vessel going
to Probolingo may pass either East or West of Katapang, but should not ap-
proach it within 2 miles. The common anchorage in the road is in 4 or 5
fathoms, with the flagstaff bearing about S.S.E., Katapang N.E. i N., and
Warangan Point about W.N.W. \ W. This place is often visited by ships
in want of water or refreshments, both of which are excellent. The river is
lengthened by a pier. The English ship Albion, sunk in the roads of Probo-
lingo, is marked by a buoy (1875).

A red light is, or is to be shown from an iron post at Probolingo.

Mount Lamongan, or Belierang, is an active volcano, about 17 miles S.E.
by S. of Probolingo. It stands in 8° 0' 30" S., and 113° 20' E.; and its
summit is 6,824 ft. above the sea, while that of the Argopoera Mountain, to
the eastward, and the highest of the range, rises to 9,843 ft., according to
Dr. F. Junghuhn.

BEZUKIE flagstaff is in 7° 43' 45" S., and 113° 40' E. This town is the
capital of the Residency which comprises the eastern part of Java, and is
much frequented by ships. It is an open port for exports only.

A hright light is, or is to be, shown from an iron post at Bezukie.

A vessel bound to this place from the westward may steer inshore near
Bedoelang Point, so as to bring Mount Eingit, or Ringgit, to bear E. by S.,
but not more to the eastward, on account of the shoal before described. It
is easily distinguished by its superior height, its vicinity to the coast, and by
its rugged, rough, and barren aspect ; it is an extinct volcano, and its summit

716 JAVA.

stands in 7° 43' 30" S., and 1 13° 51' E. When this mountain bears E. by S. ^
a hill named Tempora, to the westward of the town, will soon be discerned
on the bearing of S.E., and the conspicuous white coffee storehouses, with
red tiles, of Bezoekie. In approaching the anchorage the water will shoal
from 20 to 8 fathoms, and a broad sandy bank spreads out from the shore,
steep-to, and projecting farthest from Katang Point, where there is but 1^
fathom or less. Abreast of Mount Tempora, in the western part of the road,
some rocks and foul ground will be found. A mile to the eastward of Ka-
tang Point there are 11 to 13 fathoms, and this depth will be carried as far
as Poetie Point. The anchorage is N. by "W., or N.N.W., from the flagstaff.
Mount Tempora W.S.W. I "W., about a mile from the shore, and in 9 or 10
fathoms water. In 7^ fathoms, with Mount Tempora "W. by S., a ship
would lie too near the bank and too close to the fishing stakes.

PANARUKAN.— The flagstaff of Panarukan is in lat. 7° 43' S., long.
113° 53' 36" E. The town lies in a little bay at the foot of Mount Ringit.
It is an open port for exports only. The western side of this bay is formed
by a projecting point, on the extremity of which stands Pilarmig Hill, and
which, in one with Mount Eingit, bears S. by W. ^ W. A dangerous rock,
with only 10 ft. on it at low water, lies in this part of the bay at half a mile
off the beach, with the flagstaff at Panarukan bearing S. 64^° E., and the
eastern high peak of Gunong Einggit S. 65° W. The eastern coast of the
bight leads N.E. and N.E. by E. to Cape Tyna, and is partly margined by a
rocky reef, which begins 2 miles from Panarukan, projects half a mile from
the shore, and reaches as far as the Eiver Gomok. This reef dries at low
water in some places, but has 5 fathoms close to it, and 10 and 12 fathoms
depth at a mile distant. Ships coming from the westward and bound to
Panaroekan, may stand in for the road, with Mount Einggit bearing South,
and anchor in 17 to 15 fathoms water, on a mud bottom, full a mile from the
shore ; the flagstaff S. or S. \ E., and Mount Einggit S.W. Good fresh
water and beef are to be procured there ; but fowls and other provisions are
scarce. The anchorage is considered safe at any time of year.
A red light is, or is to be, shown at Panarukan.

CAPE TJINA or China Point is the northernmost point of the eastern
part of Java, and is in 7° 38' S., and 114° 4' E. ; it is all low, so that from
the westward, the Sedano Hills are seen high above it. There is a small
sandbank just to the westward of Cape Tjina, upon which there are but 1^
and 2 fathoms at low water, and from which the cape bears N.E. by E., and
Mount Einggit W. by S. There is another shoal of 4^ fathoms, hard sand,
just to the westward of Cape Tjina. The cape bearing E.N.E. h E., 1 mile
distant, and Mount Einggit S.W. ^ W. ; and 2 miles from the land to the
southward ; but the bank rises as suddenly as a wall from 13 and 12 fathoms,
to 5, and less. To avoid this danger, it is advisable, when passing Cape
Tjina at the West side, not to borrow too much towards the shore.

KO^tBANG BAY— CAPE SEDANO. 717

KOMBANG BAY. — To the eastward of Cape Tjina the coast runs about
8 miles to the southward, and forms Kombang Bay, in which are situated
the kampongs {villages) of Aggel, Kombang, and Tianker. This bay reaches
to Tianker Point. This bight is not free from dangers, as from Tjina there
is a sandbank a mile off, with 2 fathoms water, though 14 to 9 fathoms are
close to it. There is said to be another bank to the S.E., with 2 fathoms
only at high water, called the Enora.

A dangerous shoal was discovered, in 1812, by H.M.S. Hecate. Her boat
found 2h fathoms, rocks, and on some parts of it there appeared to be less
water, and an appearance of breakers. Cape Tjina bore from it N.W. by W. j
Mount Einggit, W.S.W. ; the first point to the westward of Cape Sedano
(Tianker Point), E. by S. ; and Sedano Mount, E.S.E. Inside of this shoal
there are 13 fathoms water, 3 miles from the Java shore. But as this shoal
has been sought for without success, it is doubtful if it exists as stated ;
nevertheless, vessels should not enter the bight between Tjina and Tianker
without necessity, and then with very great caution.

The is a good anchorage in the eastern monsoon behind Tianker Point.
In this part of the Isle of Java there are several small rivers, but at high
water their contents near the entrance are brackish. The westernmost gives
the best fresh water, which falls there over some rocks, situated above high
water mark.

Between Tianker Point and the projecting point of Loemoet, 8 miles to the
eastward, there is another bay, and the village of Tiottehy about a mile from
the entrance of a river. The mouth of this river may be found by a very
conspicuous dead tree, with two branches, on its eastern bank. The anchor-
age is in 9 or 10 fathoms, half a mile off shore, the dead tree bearing S.E.
by S. or S.E., and Loemoet Point, or the East point of the bay, E. by S.,
about 4 miles distant. The river affords good water, and is often visited by
trading proas ; but with a N.E. or E.N.E, wind the road is exposed to a
high sea. The reefs near this village stretch off to the westward from Loe-
moet Point till abreast of the dead tree. They are all within a mile of the
shore, and often afford shelter to the pirates, it being difficult to pursue them,
and they find there fresh water in abundance.

CAPE SEDANO forms the north-easternmost point of the Isle of Java, in
7° 49' S. and 114° 26' 53" E. From Loemoet Point to the eastward the coast
curves gradually from E.S.E. to S.E., without any conspicuous points, the
whole being considered as Cape Sedano. The true cape is a bluff rocky pro-
jection, which bears E.N.E. 3 E. from the summit of Mount Sedano, and
from which the coast runs more southerly. The perpendicular height of the
mount above the sea is 4,760 ft. Near the cape there is a reef, which stretches
2 or 3 cables' lengths off shore, and inside of which frequently proas are an-
chored. The depth along this coast is considerable, being in places 50 and
60 fathoms, no bottom. Mount Sedano is high and rugged, and from different

718 JAVA.

points of view has a different appearance, showing sometimes a flat table top,
and sometimes separate summits.

MEINDERS DROOGTE is 1° 41' 30" S., and 114° 22' 30" ;E., lies North
nearly 6 miles from the north-eastern coast of Java, and consists of coral,
part of which is always above the level of the sea. This dry part stretches
N.W. and S.E. about a mile ; it is very narrow, and resembles at some dis-
tance the trunk of a fallen tree.

LIGHT. — An iron pile lighthouse, with three galleries, was constructed in
the Meinders Droogte Reef, in 1877, and from it is shown a fixed hriffht lights
from a catadioptric (lenses and reflectors) apparatus of the fourth order.
The lighthouse is 46 ft. high, and the light, elevated 56 ft., is visible 12
miles off.

Vessels should not approach the lighthouse for 3 or 4 miles on its eastern side,
as a 2-fathom patch extends to the distance of 2| miles from it in that
direction. It is separated from the dry reef by a narrow channel. On its
S.W. side the lighthouse reef spreads a mile under water, consisting of large
detached rocks, carrying 3 fathoms water, while there are 50 fathoms close
to them.

About a mile W.N. W. i W. from the above reef there is another patch of
half a mile in extent, with 2 fathoms water in the shoalest place, and no
bottom with 25 fathoms between them.

Lieutenant Rietveld discovered three other reefs bearing "W". by N. and
W.S.W. ^ W., besides the last-mentioned, at the distance of 1 and 2 miles
from the dry part of Meinders Droogte, but with not less than 7 fathoms in
the shoalest place, and then 8, 10, and 15 fathoms. Two Dutch vessels were
wrecked in 1866, on what were stated to be some detached shoals, but it was
found that the Isis was S. 30° W., a third of a mile from the beacon, and the
Cornelis Anthony was on the reef bearing "W.N.W. from the beacon. To the
southward of them there are 50 and 58 fathoms.

The Eastern Coast of Java, which forms the western shore of the Strait
of Bali, will be described in the next chapter, in connection with that strait,
and the islands East of it.

The SOUTH COAST of JAVA is unlike the North coast, which in most
places consists of low plains near the sea, with regular soundings along the
coast, and anchoring ground almost everywhere. The South coast is gene-
rally high, consisting of steep rocks and rugged points, always covered with
foam and breakers, and the whole coast wearing a barren and desolate ap-
pearance. In general, great depths will be found in the immediate vicinity
of the coast, and although in some places a less forbidding beach and a less
depth of water may be found, yet they very seldom afford a fit spot for an-

GHAD.TAGAN BAY. 719

chorage. as a terrific swell, especially in the N.E. monsoon, lashes with un-
ceasing fury on to its headlands, or, carried by the full force of the ocean,
rolls into its ports and havens. Notwithstanding this, the South coast of
Java is not altogether destitute of places of shelter, for there are a few bays
and harbours which afford, under every circumstance, a safe retreat, and
have been made known by the surveys of some eminent officers of H.M.S.
navy.

From the small extent in latitude of Java, and the consequent approxima-
tion of its North and South coasts, the mountains serve as leading marks
equally on either side of the island. Throughout the western monsoon some
of these mountains may be discerned at the distance of 15 to 26 leagues, but
in the eastern monsoon they are generally concealed by a hazy sky, and
therefore not distinguishable till very near. The situation and height of these
mountains have been already described in the former pages.

The Winds and Seasons are described on page 14 ante; the Cuerknts on
pages 30, 31.

The SOUTH POINT of Java, in 8° 47' S., and 114° 26' 13" E., is the
southernmost projection of the great peninsula which forms the south-eastern
extremity of Java. From this point the coast curves in a little, E. by N. for
about 8 miles towards the Zuidoost Hoek, or S.E. point of Java ; and again,
N.W. by W. for about 6 miles towards Tamhang Point. This part of the
coast seems to be fringed with reefs under water, to a mile off shore, with 20
and 25 fathoms close outside, and with 70 and 100 fathoms of line, no bottom,
at 2 and 4 miles distance. Continual breakers will be seen there, and the im-
practicability of anchoring in such large depths makes it advisable to keep at
some distance off this coast, especially in calms and light airs.

GEADJAGAN BAY. — Gradjagan is a large bay to the westward of Tarn-
bang Point. It is 10 or 11 miles wide, and about 6 miles across ; and it ia
said to afford good anchorages during the eastern monsoon, in 14 to 8 fa-
thoms water. On the western side of the bay, on a small river, stands the
village of Gradjagan, but neither there, nor in the wells along the beach, ia
good water to be had ; nor can ships' provisions be procured.

From Gradjagan Bay to Nusa Baron, or Baron Island, a distance of about
16 leagues, the coast is steep, rocky, and barren, forming a chain of small
bights, lined witli several islets and rocks, which make the approach dan-
gerous. One of these bights, 16 miles to the eastward of Baron Island, ia
called Fledermuis (Bat) Bag, but from its rocky shore, large depths, bad
shelter in most winds, and continual surf, is unsafe.

Baron or Barung Island. — The S. point of Nusa Baron is in 8" 32' S., and
the W. point in 113" 15' E., and the island is 8 miles in length, and 4 miles in
breadth. Its South side is low, fronting the sea, but the S.W., S.E., and E,
sides steep, of considerable height, and rocky, and discernible at a consider-
able distance. The summit of Moxmt Semiroe bears from the East point

720 JAVA.

about N.W. by W., and its nearest distance from the shore of Java is 2 A or
3 miles, with 20 and 30 fathoms between them. At the N.E, angle of the
island there is a small bay, where tolerable anchorage may be found in the
N.W. monsoon in 27 fathoms.

N.N.W. i W. from the East point, and E.N.E. from the West point of
Baron Island, the Java shore forms a projecting land-tongue ; 5 miles to the
eastward of which lies the village and the river of Poeger, where some pro-
visions and water may be procured in the western monsoon.

Dampar Bay. — N.N.W. of Baron Island, the Java coast makes a bay,
"with 50, 30, and 20 fathoms water. The easternmost part of this bay has a
sandy beach, which rises into sandhills or downs ; the western shore is rocky,
and it is said that dangerous sunken reefs project some distance from the
■shore. One rock lies 8 miles W.N.W. from the N.W. point of Barung
Island.

To the westward of Dampar the country inland is mountainous, and in
clear weather a good mark to correct the reckoning is the high hill of
Semiroe, the conical summit of which is in 8° 8' S., and 112° 54' E., and
discernible 20 leagues. The coast forms here several bights, of which the
principal, Pelolot Bay, bears about S. J W. from Semiroe Peak.

Sempoe Island is 8 miles to the westward of Pelolot Bay, and its West
point lies in 8° 28' 30" S., and 112° 39' E., or about S.W. by S. from Semiroe
Peak. The island is 5 miles long, and consists, as does all the adjacent
■coast, of high rocks. It is separated from the main by a strait a quarter of
a mile wide. From the island of Sempoe the coast runs about 17 leagues
W. by N., and consists of a ridge of steep rocks, fronted by an uninterrupted
line of surf.

SEGORO WEDIE BAY is one of the most splendid bays of the whole
island of Java, as well with respect to its situation and fitness for trade as to
the magnificent appearance of its extensive basin, surrounded by its high
and picturesque land, or by the numerous islands in its entrance. The
latitude of Tawing, a village at the northern part of the bay, is 8° 16' 40" S.

The group of Limo Rocks (or Five Islands), which are full 2 miles S.E. of
the entrance, are in 8° 22' 45" 8., and 111° 43' 48" E. Outside of the bay,
besides the Limo Rocks, there are several other small islands, but all within
3 miles of the shore, and as some of them are elevated from 120 to 400 ft.
above the sea, they serve as leading marks towards the entrance of the bay.
All these islands, as well as the adjacent coast, are steep-to, rising abruptly
out of the water, so that a ship may pass on either side of them when enter-
ing the bay. There is said to be a dangerous rock of 3J fathoms called
Bergat, with Goenong Island bearing W.N.W. i W., Wot Jaloe Point
N.N.E., Losari Island E. i S., and the West point of Boyo S. by E. i E.,
but this is doubtful.

SEGOEO WEDIE BAY. 721

There are no other concealed dangers in the entrance of the bays, as the
Batang and Skel Eocks remain always above the surface.

Segoro Wedie Bay is separated into two bights, Segoro and Damas ; the
former is bounded to the southward by the sugarloaf shaped island Kembeng,
and to the northward by the rock of Pegat. In this bight a ship will be
sheltered, in 14 fathoms mud, from wind and sea in the eastern monsoon, on
the eastern side of the bay. Fresh water may be procured, and communi-
cation may be kept up with the shore, by the ships' boats or by proas, as
most convenient respecting the cargo.

The anchorages along the western side of the bay are not safe, and, with
a southerly wind, even those on its eastern side are not exempt from a heavy
swell that rolls heavily in ,• while with south-easterly gales, sudden gusts of
wind come down from the mountains, but they are not of long duration.

Gemah and Boemboen Bays. — About 4 miles to the eastward of Segoro
Wedie Bay there is a deep bight, between Wat Jaloe Point and Djong Pakis
Point, about 6^ miles wide at the entrance, and receding 4 miles to the
northward, where it is divided into two parts by a rocky projecting interval.
The western part is called Gemah Bay, and the eastern Boemboen.

In general the coast is here rocky, but very steep. In the eastern mon-
soon the bay is wholly open to the wind as well as to a high running sea,
except under the south-eastern point of Lemiring, where a ship will find a
tolerable shelter close in-shore near the village of Popoh. The northern and
western sides of Gemah Bay are unsafe in that monsoon.

Popoh has about 150 inhabitants, and affords good water and wood, but
no ship's provisions whatever. Inland communication is here much more
convenient than from any of the other bays of the South coast, as it is only
separated from the interior by a ridge of hills 300 or 400 ft. in height, which
is comparatively low.

Boemboen Bay lies 3 miles to the eastward of Gemah Bay, and extends
from Pakis Point, upon which stands a round hill of the same name, to Selo
Pajong (a flat stone), which bears some resemblance, at a distance, to a dis-
masted wreck. There being no inhabitants, no provisions are to be had ;
but the bay is unfit to be used in the eastern monsoon.

Soembreng Bay. — From Segoro Wedie Bay the shore stretches West, and
W.N.W. 8 miles to Soembreng Bay, forming diff'erent points and small
bights, though not off'ering good anchorage.

Soembreng Bay, in about 8° 20' S., and 111° 34' E., is far inferior to that
of Segoro Wedie, not only in regard to its smaller extent, but in its insecure
anchorages and inconvenient landing-places. Two or three miles S.W. of
this bay the three rocky and uninhabited islands, Kalengan, Preyidjono, and
Kepanean, serve as good marks for this or for Pangoel Bay.

It is 2 miles wide at its entrance, and contains no dangers except the
I A. 4 Z

722 JAVA.

rocks round the small island of Sroyoe, near its S.E. point ; and Gebos Reef
•which bears S.S.E. from that island, about 2 cables' lengths, but it shows
itself above water. The depths in the entrance are from 35 to 40 fathoms.

At each end of the sandy beach, upon which there is always a high surf
there is the mouth of a river. The eastern one has some rocks beneath the
water's edge at high water, and very dangerous when there is the least
swell. The water, however, is very good, and fire-wood may be had in
plenty there. The communication with the interior is difficult from the
steep ridge of mountains.

PANGOOL or Pangoel Bay is about 6 miles to the westward of Soembreng,
and 5 leagues from Segoro Wedie ; it atfords a good anchorage in the eastern
monsoon, and is frequently visited by coasting traders, being an open port,
but for exports only. Its limits were defined by the Royal Ordinance, March
23rd, 1862, as lying within the line joining the beacon mark for the harbour
and the N.W. point of Pulo Kongitan, or North Gialang, and bearing from
each other N.E. i E. and S.W. i W.

At the distance of a mile from the S.E. point of the Bay of Pangoel lie
the dano-erous rocks of Sero ; they are partly above water, and though the
southernmost is sometimes covered, its high breakers usually show its place.
The passage to the eastward, between them and the S.E. point of the bay, is
a mile wide, and seems to be free from danger, as all the rocks are visible
above water. The common anchorage in Pangool Bay is at the N.E. side
in 7 or 8 fathoms, sand, opposite the Government Salt Storehouse ; but as a
ship is exposed there to a dangerous swell, and the landing is troublesome,
another anchorage, a little more to the southward, in a bight abreast of
Kongilan Island, is preferable. This bight is scarcely half a mile wide, but
it has good ground, sand and clay, in 7 to 5 fathoms. The bottom rises
gradually towards a sandy island, upon which stands the cofifee storehouses ;
and there is a pier, which much facilitates the transfer of cargoes, as well as
the intercourse of boats.

From Pangool the coast stretches to the westward for 24 miles to Patjitan,
but forming some bights, of which Lorok -Bay is the principal, although too
small and too much exposed to afford any anchorage for ships. The coast is
high, rocky, and lined by a continued range of breakers.

PATJITAN BAY. — Ships bound to Patjitan Bay ought to steer close along
the shore, for fear of passing it in the night, the opening not being wide ;
care is also requisite not to mistake it for Lorok Bay, as they bear much
resemblance to each other ; but as these bays differ 1 5 minutes in longitude,
an error of this kind is not probable, if any confidence can be placed in the
chronometers, and if due attention is paid to the following directions. The
middle of the bay lies in 8° 15' S. and 111° 3' E. Its limits were officially
defined (March 23, 1862) as being inside the line joining the signal flagstaff
on Ngamber Point, on the eastern side, and the hillock of Karang Semondo

BAGLEN HEAD. 723

on the West. The entrance is only 1 mile wide, but inside it expands to 2
miles in breadth and in length ; and when it bears N. or N. by E. the bay is
open and easily discovered. The fair track into the bay is mid-channel be-
tween the two points, on both of which a high surf always breaks. Patjitan
Bay cannot be considered as quite safe, or as an agreeable resort, for ships
must submit there to continued heavy rolling, sometimes gunwale under,
occasioned by the perpetual high southerly swell. Notwithstanding all this,
the anchorage has in most places good holding ground, consisting of black
sand mixed with clay, in 8 to 14 fathoms. There are but two places in the
bay fit for boats to land ; the first on the western side, near a small patch of
white sand, called Temper an Beach ; the watering-place is also there, and near
it the best anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms water. The other landing-place is
near the eastern point of the bay, in Megelon Cove, which, though very small,
is large enough to contain a single ship. In this cove there is very little
swell, and 12 to 10 fathoms, soft ground ; farther in, a deep cleft will be
discerned in the land, in the direction of N.E. by E., forming a little harbour,
with depths of 4 to 2 fathoms, soft ground, and shoaling gradually to 3 ft.,
with a small white sandy beach without any surf at all. Both the little
harbour and the cove in which it is situated are completely landlocked ; but
the communication with the chief town, Patjitan, is difficult from the inter-
vening mountains. Patjitan is an open port for exports only.

The fine river Pantier falls into the bay at its N.E. side, but it is difficult
to enter on account of its bar. The whole North side of Patjitan Bay is
lined with a beach of white sand, but the high surf renders it impracticable
for landing. It is high water, at full and change, about 8 o'clock, and the
vertical rise is a little more than 7 ft.

From Patjitan Bay a barren, woody, uninhabited coast of chalk moun-
tains, and fronted by a continuous line of breakers, stretches W, by N. and
W.N.W. It forms, however, some small bights, of which Homho, Krakal,
and Baron, are the largest, but all of them useless to ships. Farther on,
from near Brossot to Bollong Head, the shore is not so steep, and the beach
rises into a chain of sand downs, about 25 ft. in height above the water.
There is no anchorage near this part of the coast.

BAGLEN HEAD, or Meganties Point, lies in long. 109° 24' E., and is a
promontory of steep and inaccessible rocks, said in the old charts to resemble
Beachy Head. Landing there is impossible from the high surf ; and it is
without doubt that there are some sunken rocks near it. Many instances
are on record of boats and proas, in endeavouring to land, having been up-
set, and of large trading proas, as well as other vessels, having been wrecked
there.

When coming from the eastward, Baglen Head seems to be surrounded
by low land, and is a notable mark for ships bound to Tjilatjap. From the
S.E. or southward it has the appearance of an island with peaked hills. It

7 J I JAVA.

l)ears much resemblance to Kambangan Island ; but if the chronometers are
not much in error, such a mistake is not probable, as the two points differ
24' in long;itude.

SCHILDPADDEN or Turtle Bay is the long: bight between Kambangan
Island and Baglen Head. According to the Kambangan pilots, this bight
is without dangers, and has good holding ground throughout, except near
the range of breakers. Some rivers that discharge themselves into it cause
irregular currents, with patches of discoloured water and ripples, and drive
out trees and shrubs in abundance. In the eastern monsoon it affords no
anchorage for ships, at least not without suffering from much wind and swell,
near the village of Jettis ; for though Baglen Head offers some partial shelter,
by which landing is rendered less dangerous than at any other place, yet the
promontory does not project enough to afford a safe anchorage. The only
good anchorage in the whole of Schildpadden Bay is behind the eastern end
of Kambangan Island.

KAMBANGAN ISLAND is separated from Java by a very narrow ehannet,
and it occupies the whole space between the bays of Schildpadden and Pe-
naniong. At each end of the island there is a harbour, Tjilatjap and Tjitando-.
The latter, to the eastward, is a place of considerable resort for vessels of all
sizes ; and on the right bank of the river, which empties itself into the
former, stands the establishment of Kalie Poetjang.

To the northward the channel expands into Anakan Lagoon, which is fuUy
4 miles square, but from its extensive mud-banks it is navigable by proas and
small vessels only. Kambangan is throughout its whole length high and
rocky, but covered with large trees, and stretches from W.N.W. to E.S.E.,
its extreme length being 15, and its breadth 4 miles.

TJILATJAP or Chailachap, near the eastern part of Kambangan, is an
open port, and the most important on the South coast of Java. It has
increased remarkably in importance since the development of the commerce
of the island, being the market for the entire products of the surrounding
country. The surveys of the Dutch Government, and the marks esta-
blished, will simplify its navigation, but a pilot is necessary.

The South point of Tjilatjap lies in 7° 44' 40" S., and 109° 5' 30 E. ; and
the flagstaff on BoUong Head is in 7° 46' 12" E., and 109° 7' 0" E., according
to Lieut. Rietveld.

Vessels bound to Tjilatjap ought to steer for the eastern end of Kamban-
gan. This island, from the southward, is very conspicuous ; the East part
being high and terminating in the bluff head of Bollong. In clear weather,
and when the mountains are not hidden by clouds, the conical peak of Tegal
will be an excellent mark ; by bringing its summit N. by E. ^ E., when
Bollong Head will be seen in the same bearing ; but if the peak should be
made on the bearing of North, then the head will rise in the N.W. about 20
miles distant. When approaching to within 5 or 6 miles to the eastward of

TJTLATJAP AND LIGHT. 725

Kamhangan, some hills will be discerned, which are situated to the eastward of
the rivers Serayoe and Adirejo, and near the shore, and have the appearance
Oi an island.

LIGHT. — In order to distinguish the eastern point of Kambangan from
Karang Bollong to the East ot it, a stone tower was erected, but it was blown
down. A new stone tower, 75 ft. high, was erected in 1861. There is now
a lighthouse on this part of the island, onTjimiring Hill, from which dibright
revolving light is shown at an elevation of 665 ft. above the sea, and visible 20
miles off. It appears as a bright light for 8 seconds in every minute, and
is obscured to vessels close under the land.

Besides this outer mark there are three pairs of leading marks or beacons-,
which show the direction of the inner channel, and two others farther in.

In coming from the eastward, and getting near the island, the rock of
Bollong will be perceived, lying 87 yards from the N.E. point of Kamban-
gan Island ; this rock, at which the channel begins, is very small, covered
with some trees, and hollow underneath.

Lieutenant Rietveld says — When Bollong Rock bears West, at 2 miles
distance, good anchorage will be found; when the S.E point of Noesa Kam-
bangan bears S.S.W., 12 or 13 fathoms, sandy bottom ; the East point ap-
proached within half a mile, 8 fathoms, sandy bottom ; the East point bear-
ing South, 5 or 6 fathoms, sand ; and N.E. of Bollong Rock, or of the flag-
staff, at low water, 4 fathoms. Inside or to the westward of Bollong Rock,
there are again 6 and 8 fathoms, and throughout the whole channel good
anchorage ground will be found, as indicated by the chart.

A government native pilot proceeds instantly on board of any vessel on
her making the signal for a pilot, which should be accompanied by a gun.

With westerly winds there is no great swell under the lee of Kambangan
Island, and vessels to the N.E. of Bollong Head, while waiting for a pilot,
may anchor there as soon as they are sufiiciently sheltered. In the south-
eastern monsoon the pilot will come out, unless the wind and swell are too
high, in which case that anchorage would not be safe, and then vessels
should stand off and on in the offing, unless they are so far acquainted with
the place as to be able to run inside of Bollong Head, where they will be
protected from the wind, and not very much incommoded by the swell.
While waiting outside, keep Bollong head to the West of S.W., as the
outer or sea-bank stretches from the point N.E. of the Hard iSand-bank
opposite Kambangan.

Beacons. — The channel within Karang Bollong is shown by several beacons
as above mentioned. The principal are two stone towers, surmounted with
hexagonal iron plates, 25 ft. in diameter, standing near Karang Tonga, and
288 ft. apart; being in one, S. 68° W., they lead up to Karang Rempak.

Two smaller but similar beacons, near Banjoe Njapa, 75 ft. apart S. 45° W.
in one, lead through the narrows by Karang Rempak.

726 JAVA.

To the southward of Karang Rempak are two similar inntr leacom, East
and West, 45 ft. apart, leading between Karang Rempak and Karang
Tenga.

These three pairs of beacons are alike in form and colour. The higher and
inner ones are white, with three black perpendicular stripes. The outer and
lower ones are white. When in one the white beacon covers a portion of
the inner one, the black stripes on which are thus seen over it.

Besides these beacons there are two pair of marks farther in. The first
two are on the North side of the channel ; they stand on Karang Balie, and
point out the end of the sea-bank. Their tops are triangular, the base of
the triangle being perpendicular, and their upper points in opposite direc-
tions, so that when seen in one, these tops being at equal heights, form a
square. Their bearing is N. 53° W., and show the above direction.

Another pair of similar beacons stand on the southern side of the channel,
a little to the southward of the former, and are in one N. 60° W. 260 ft.
apart. In using these marks, great caution is requisite, to keep the narrow
channel, without touching on the banks.

As for a stranger a pilot is necessary, it is needless to give more direction*
than those which were generally useful previous to the establishment of
the beacons in 1861.

The channel up to Tjilatjap is very narrow from abreast of Bollong Rock,
where it makes a curve towards the S W. ; and between the end of the Hard
Sand and Kambangan it is not 220 yards wide, but on both sides steep-to.
In the middle of the channel there are from 4 to 9 fathoms, with a few spots
which carry only 20 ft. It is too narrow to work in, and therefore a vessel
must be warped in against the wind.

To avoid a rock which bears North of Mount Brambang, or 8.S.E. from
the coal store on the South point of Tjilatjap, and which carries only 2^
fathoms at low water, keep the point of Sodon in sight, well outside of Agong
Point. This point, Agong, in one with the foot of the farthest visible mount,
Boaya, leads just upon the rock, Sudon Point being then, of course, shut
in. Keep nearest to the Kambangan side, where good anchorage will bo
found S.S.W. from the storehouses, on the line uniting the pier and the
watering-place, and in 5 or 6 fathoms, with a sand and mud bottom. The
deepest water will be found on the Kambangan shore, which is also steep-
to. A vessel lies here as in a dock, sheltered from all winds, and without
any swell ; so that since the pier was completed, cargoes are shipped or dis-
embarked with facility.

The bight of Tjilatjap, between the South point and Green point, contains
a soft sloping mud-bank, stretching out as far as the pier, and drying at low
water spring tides. With the South point ol Tjilatjap in one with the flag-
staff of Bollong, there are not more than 4 fathoms depth between those two
above-mentioned points.

TJILATJAP. 727

Tides. — The following information respecting the tides, currents, and winds
in the neighbourhood of Tjilatjap, has been collected from Lieut. Eietveld's
remarks.

The ebb tide runs between the easternmost beacons to the N.N.E. and
N.E., and the flood to the S.W., over the Hard Sand-bank, and then partly
turns to the W.S.W.

Abreast of Balie Rock, just to the -westward of Rempak Point, the ebb tide
sets to the North and N.E. over the sand-bank ; also the flood to the South
and S.W. ; and in the West monsoon to the S.S.E., towards Banjoe Japa
Rock, in the deepest part of the bight, from whence it follows the westerly
trend of the channel. When the Hard Sand-bank is dry, the streams set of
course along its edge.

To the westward of Tjilatjap Point the tidal streams follow the direction
of the channel ; the flood, more than half the length of Kambangan Island,
into the Anakan Lagoon, where it meets the flood which sets in through
Tjitando Bay and round the West point of Banting Mattie. The ebb runs
in the contrary directions, sweeping round the bight of Banjoe Japa, and then
N.E. through the narrows, and crossing the Hard Sand, or entering the sea
in an East or E.S.E. direction.

The velocity of these streams is variable, 2J, 3, 4, 4^ knots, and the ebb
even 5 and 5^ in the rainy season. The time of high and low water is, at
full and change, low water, 2'* 35"", and high water S"" 45"; the length of the
flood being about 6*" 0™ ; and the mean rise and fall about 3^ ft. The
greatest range of the tide that took place was 6 feet 3^ inches.

In the morning, before 8 or 9 o'clock, there is usually a gentle laud
breeze from the West or W.N.W., which enables vessels to go out in the
eastern monsoon. Then, in both monsoons, it is calm till 1 1 o'clock, which
allows ships to warp or tow in, during the western monsoon. From the
middle of July, however, till the beginning of October, there are continued
easterly winds, without the least interruption ; and in August and Septem-
ber they are accompanied by heavy rains, and sometimes storms, with no
westerly or land breeze at all.

Deep-laden ships waiting outside for a fit opportunity to weigh often sufi'er
severely from the sea. In both monsoons a small steam-tug (perhaps now
established) would, therefore, be a great benefit to the trade of Tjilatjap.

The watering place on the Kambangan shore is near the anchorage, and
aff'ords good and pure water ; a brick aqueduct and reservoir may the pro-
cess convenient.

The Island of Kambangan is all rock and wood, there is therefore plenty
of fuel, and even trees fit for topmasts.; there is also a profusion of game
such as deer, wild hogs, tigers, rhinoceroses, &c. Refreshments are to be
procured plentifully at Tjilatjap, but few ships' stores at present. The fa-
vourable position of this port for general commerce has so wonderfully in-

728 JAVA.

creased the number of vessels by which it is visited, and so conveniently is it
connected with the rest of Java, that perhaps at no very distant period it
will be the principal entrepot of the whole island. On the sea-face of Karang
liollong are numerous caves, in which are found the edible birds' nests so
highly prized by Orientals. The nests are formed, by a small species of
swallow, of gelatinous seaweed. The caves are from 50 to 700 ft. beneath
the bill tops, and inaccessible, except to men lowered by ropes.

The climate of Tjilatjap cannot be considered healthy, especially in the
western monsoon ; and malignant fevers prevail sometimes after a long
drought, and during the rainy season.

At Tjilatjap are residing an assistant resident, a storekeeper, and some
civil authorities of minor importance, and a small garrison at Karang Bol-
long, a military doctor, hospital, &c. The western entrances of Segara Ana-
kan, which are formed to the westward of Kambangan Island, and which
are visited sometimes by coasting vessels to fetch a cargo of salt for Kalie
Poetjang, are very narrow and intricate. BessekHead, the S.W. extremity
of Kambangan Island, lies in 7° 41' 45" S., and 108° 49' E.

Tjitando Inlet, the western entrance to the Segara Arrakan, or Anakan La-
goon, between Kambangan and the Java shore, is 2 miles long, and for a
mile 2 cables' lengths wide; and both sides are high, steep, and rocky.
Wre Island divides the inlet into two parts, and there are also some detached
rocks, which make it still more intricate. The opening into this inlet, which
lies 2 miles North of Bessek Head, Kambangan, is not discerned easily when
coming from the southward, even at a short distance, from its tortuous course
and its high shores ; but steering a little northward of Bessek Head, Wre will
easily be distinguished when standing in-shore.

Ships bound to this place in the eastern monsoon should make the land a
little to windward of the western end of Kambangan, and then run along
towards the Isle of Wre, but not forgetting the Amboer, a dangerous sunken
rock, bearing N. by W. i W., 700 yards from Bessek Head.

In the western monsoon a ship should first steer for Cape Mandararie, at
the extremity of Penaniong Bay, and bearing W.S.W. | W., 19 miles from
Bessek Head. From Cape Mandararie the course of E.N.E. leads into the
entrance of this inlet.

The steep sides of the Tjitando Inlet intercept all winds which do not blow
straight through, and the little room it affords for working, along with it8
winding form, in most cases render towing or warping unavoidable. A ship
must trust chiefly to the tides, and when she arrives at the mouth of the in-
let, she should anchor and wait for the flood. It need scarcely be mentioned
that with westerly and southerly winds there will be a heavy swell there,
and, although the holding ground is good, a ship cannot be said to lie in
safety.

With southerly winds, in either monsoon, the entrance of this inlet is Tery

TJITANDO. 729

troublesome and sometimes impossible ; but with easterly winds, and no high
sea, a ship may anchor near the South side of the Isle of Wre, and wait for
a favourable tide.

Between the entrance of the inlet and Bessek Head there is a small bight
called Bator Cove, which, though only half a mile wide, affords good shelter
in easterly winds.

In the passage there is an irregular bottom of gravel and broken rocks,
and not till in the Anakan basin will better ground be found, and there only
for a small space. "When abreast of Banting Mattie, a ship will be land-
locked on all sides, and, being no longer exposed to the swell, she may an-
chor in safety ; but she should be provided with chain cables, for the chan-
nels being passed entirely by warping or towing, it is necessary to bring up
very frequently.

Wre Island, which divides this inlet in two parts, is high, rocky, and
densely clothed with trees, stretching N.X.E. and S.S.W. nearly a mile in
length, but varying in breadth from 440 to 55 yards. The passages to the
East and West of "Wre Island are called respectively Tando and Sehel. It is
difiB.cult to prescribe under what circumstances either of these channels
ahould be preferred, — the position of the vessel, the wind and weather, the
tide, and other considerations, — must decide the choice of the prudent
seaman.

"When proceeding through Tjitando or Channel, it should be considered
that the reef projecting from Serang Point (which is the western extremity
of Kambangan, and bearing E.S.E. from the South point of V^re) is not so
dangerous as its heavy breakers would indicate at the first appearance ; for
outside of this reef there is hard sand, ground, with 10 to 14 fathoms water,
where, although much exposed to the swell, anchoring is not dangerous. In
bad weather, indeed, this reef should never be approached, except to pass
it with a leading wind and good headway. Within Serang Point lies the
small island of Manok, and W.N.W. from it the dangerous rock of Tongak,
which, is, however, visible at low water. The channel leads between this
island and some rocks, and is only 328 yards wide, with from 5 to 18 fa-
thoms depth in the middle. Between Tongak and Wre the passage is barred
by rocks, and to the depth eastward of Manok there is only from 1 to 3
fathoms depth. Accordingly vessels should steer close along the West side
of Manok Island; thence with a N.E. or E.N.E. course in 12 to 20 fathoms
depth, along the projecting peninsula of Java, called Siragalo ; and pass
Cape Mattie with a North or N.N. W. course. Siragalo Peninsula is high and
steep, and may be passed at the S.E. and East sides at half a cable's length,
in 6 and 12 fathoms water; but the Kambangan side should not be ap-
proached too near, on account of the rocks of Gomboyok, which are dry at
very low water, and bear S. by W. and S.S.W. from Cape Mattie, and E. by

I. A. 5 A

730 JAVA.

N. and E.N.E. from the point of Siragalo. The eddy of the ebb tide along
the Kambangan shore sets right upon those rocks. Cape Mattie lies half a
mile North of Siragalo, and half a mile farther, on the Java shore, the river
Tjitando falls into the sea. The anchorage off Cape Mattie is in 12 to 20
fathoms water, but a better berth may be found in 7 to 10 fathoms, sandy
bottom, about 4 cables' lengths from the mouth of the river Tjitando. There
being extensive reefs on the Java shore, and in the Anakan Basin,
and the tides and eddies being very irregular, it is advisable to moor
the ship.

The Tji Schel Channel to the westward of Wre Island is not so dangerous
as that of Tando, and has throughout its whole length, irregular depths,
from 4 to 12 and 16 fathoms, gravel and broken rocks. It is necessary,
however, to keep in the mid-channel, as there are but 3 fathoms water to
the North and N.E. of the Isle of Wre ; for 330 yards distance, and to the
westward of the peninsula of Siragalo, the Eawit Eocks, which are dry at
low water, project 100 yards distance off shore.

This channel is longer than that of Tando, and has the further disadvan-
tage that, when the wind is not favourable, vessels cannot get directly inside
of Siragalo, and they are compelled to anchor, which occasions loss of time.
In such circumstances it is better to wait to the S.W. of the North end of the
Isle of Wre, because the North and East sides afford less shelter, and a
nasty swell makes the eastern anchorage very inconvenient. When Sira-
galo has been rounded, proceed according to the directions for the Taudo
Channel.

As both these channels are too intricate for strangers, they should not
attempt them, unless in a case of high necessity, without a pilot.

The rise and fall of the water depend much upon the winds, and on the
more or less efflux of the rivers which fall into the Anakan Sea ; spring tides
generally rise 5 to 5J ft., and the neap tides 3^ to 4 ft. The currents are
unequal in force, and the duration of the streams very irregular, except
when the rivers are low, the flood and ebb then changing every 6 hours ; but
while the rivers are full, the flood runs 3, and the ebb 9 hours. At full and
change, the times of high and low water are too variable to allow us to give
the establishment.

PENANIONG BAY, formed between the western end of Kambangan and
Cape Mandararie, is about 6 leagues in extent, and is divided into two un-
equal parts by the peninsula and point of Penaniong, the eastern Maurits
Bay, and the western Vries Bay.

In Maurits Bay, between the peninsula and Kambangan Island, a ship
may find sufficient shelter in the western monsoon. When entering Maurits
Bay, a rock, perforated like the arch of a bridge, will be discerned, also three
rocks in a line, like sugar-loaves ; there are no dangers, the soundings de-
crease gradually till within a mile of the shore, where a ship may anchor,

WYNKOOPS BAY. 731

or nearer if requisite ; and fresh water may be procured easily in a small
sandy bay.

From Cape Mandararie the coast stretches westward, and then W.N.W.
and W. by N., to Cape Anjol, a distance of more than 40 leagues, without
meeting between these points anything worth notice. Nothwithstanding,
there are two points where, at Cape Santiang, the coast curves in for some
miles; and still more at Cape Eurum, about 107° 36' E. longitude. Near
Boemie Foint, which lies in 108° 17' E., there are two small islands, the
westernmost of which is round, and the other low and more level.

This part of the South coast of Java seems to be free from dangers,
although off most of the points there are reefs, on which the sea usually
breaks with violence, and in every bight or curve a heavy surf rolls up a
white sandy beach. In general, at 4 miles distance off shore, 50 to 30 fa-
thoms will be found ; and within that distance a 30 to 12 fathoms line will
reach the bottom, which is mostly sand, and tolerably good holding ground,
were it not for the very high swell. Vessels beating up along this coast
should therefore keep under sail during the night, and not approach too
near the shore ; but in all cases their ground tackle ought to be kept in
readiness for immediate use if required.

From Cape Santiang to the eastward the coast is low near to the sea,
woody and cultivated, and of an agreeable appearance, but to the westward
of that point to Cape Anjol it is much higher and mountainous.

Coasting along this part of Java, a ship may often correct her reckoning
by the summits of the mountains ; the positions of the Mounts Patoeha,
Tiloe, Papadayang, and Tjikoray, between 107^° and 108' E., have not been
yet ascertained with accuracy, but a little more to the westward, in clear
weather, the bearings of Pangerango (blue mountains) and Salak, of which
the places and the elevations have been determined, will be satisfactory.

CAPE ANJOL, in the old charts called Wine-coopers (Wynkoops) Point,
is situated in lat. 7° 25' S., and long. 106° 24 V E. The point is low, but
nevertheless easily distinguished, and from the westward is very conspicuous.
Near the point there is a low sandy island, with some trees on it. To the
eastward of Cape Anjol the coast bends slightly round to Gadia Point, and
has somewhat of the appearance of a wall with embrasures. About 3 miles
offshore the depth is 19 fathoms.

From the cape the coast trends suddenly to the N.N.W. for about 3
leagues to Cape Monijol, and from thence N. by E. and N.N.E. 6 miles to
Pantyoer Point and Zand Bay, which extends to Cape Ragat, where Wyn-
koops Bay begins.

WYNKOOPS BAY lies N.E. and S.W., and is entirely open to W. and
S.W. winds. Its entrance points, Ragat and Payong, bear N.W. by N. and
S.E. by S. 9^ miles from each other; and the whole length of the bay is 10
miles. At the N.E. side of the bay are the government storehouses for coffee

732 JAVA.

and salt ; and their position has been determined by many observations to be
6" 59' 30" S., and 106° 31' E., or 17' W. of Batavia. The limits of the road,
defined officially March 23rd, 1862, are on the North, the parallel of the
beacon to the southward of the government storehouses, to southward the
parallel of the beacon of Palaboean-Eatoe, and to the West the 12-fathoni
(Eynland) line. Wynkoops Bay is an open port for express only. There
are many spots of good anchorage ground, but a large funnel-shaped space
in the middle channel, leading from the entrance to the store, is more than
100 fathoms deep. Two cables' lengths due West from the stores there are
some sunken rocks, with 3 and Ih fathoms water ; and they so fend off the
sea, that a communication may always be kept with the shore in boats. The
bay is surroxmded by high hills, which are clothed with trees to the water's
edge. In some places ragged points project, with a few scattered rocks
upon them, some visible and others invisible, and reaching half a cable's
length or more off shore. The best roadstead is to the southward of the
storehouses, and is called the Palaboen Radja. Regular soundings will be
found there and along the coast as far as Gambang Point, with good hold-
ing ground of clay and sand ; and vessels may safely anchor there in as far
as 8 fathoms, or from half a mile to a mile off shore.

Between Gambang and Ponnay Points there is also good anchoring
ground, but the water is too deep there, being at half a mile from the rocks
50 fathoms, and a little farther 100 fathoms, no ground. Between Ponnay
and Eagat Points, the latter being the S.W. point of the bay, there is no
anchorage, as there is no bottom at a quarter of a mile off shore with 50
fathoms. In the northern part of the bay vessels may also anchor to the
westward of Pamoelang Point, up to the Eiver Tjiboreno. In the western
monsoon it is better to anchor in a greater depth, as the usual road is not
then so safe, the winds raising a considerable sea. At the South side of
the bay, if it be necessary to land in the eastern monsoon, smooth water
will be found in some places, where native huts are seen near the beach,
or behind the rocks ; but at the N.W. side there is then no landing place
at all.

At night the N.J], side of the bay is usually obscured by mists ; and as the
depth in the entrance is too great for anchoring, all vessels should stand off
and on till morning ; and this they can do without trouble, there being no
tides worth mentioning.

With heavy rains the current from the Eiver Mandirie sets to the S.W.
along the coast, but is never stronger than three-quarters of a mile per hour ;
and in the N.E. corner of the bay there is none. From the Eiver Tjiboreno
also there is sometimes an outset of 2 miles per hour ; but this N.W. part
of the bay should never be visited without necessity, for although the
ground is good enough, when close in, yet there is much danger there from
th(i breakers.

ZAND BAY. 733?

In neap tides the rise and fall near the storehouses is 2 feet 7 inches, and
in the springs about 5^ feet. At full and change the time of high water is
5 o'clock, but the time, as well as the rise, depends much upon the iniluence
of the rivers, which often disturb its regularity.

At full and change there is commonly a change of weather ; baffling and
variable winds, with sudden squalls, predominate about this time, and the
sea runs higher.

The land wind during the night is either N.E. or S.E.,- according to
the side of the bay ; the sea breeze sets in usually at 9 or 10 o'clock in the
morning, and in the eastern monsoon is not stronger in the roadstead than a
topgallant breeze.

The little strength of the eastern monsoon in this bay is probably caused
by the high mountains which surround it, and though in the monsoon the
western wind blows with force, Wynkoops Bay is visited throughout both
seasons by coasting vessels, as well as by large ships, for they are at all times
sure of finding a good anchorage.

Ships coming from Europe in the eastern monsoon generally shape their
course so as to make the land to windward of Sunda Strait, and it often
happens they get first sight of the land near Cape Anjol or of Wynkoops
Bay. Should a vessel in such a case require fresh water, it may speedily be
procured in Wynkoops Bay, whilst beef, rice, and fowls may also be had
there. This bay is also very convenient for shipping produce for Europe.

The only river of importance in the bay is the Mandirie, which is of con-
siderable breadth, but a bar at its mouth is an impediment to its navigation,
and the stream meeting the swell produces heavy breakers. The other
rivers divide in rivulets and small branches, and disperse themselves on the
beach without being noticed.

ZAND BAY, li mile to the S.W. of Wynkoops Bay, is about Z^ miles
across, between the points of Jaiar and Pantyoer ; but further in contracts
to 1| by 1 mile. The N.W. point of the little island of Mandra in this bay
is in 7° 11' 7" S. and 106= 25' E. The depths at the entrance are irregular,
from 40 to 50 fathoms, but just outside, in a line between Eagat and Pan-
tyoer Points, and bearing N.W. i W. from Mandra Island, there is a patch
with 7 to 14 fathoms. A little inside of the entrance the depth decreases
rapidly to 30, 20, and 10 fathoms, miid bottom, and to the north-eastward of
Mandra to 7, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms, also mud.

Besides Mandra, which is a remarkable rock, surrounded by cliffs, with
some trees, there is Manok, another small rocky island, less elevated and
more oblong.

This bay is essentially rocky, yet in the middle there is a large and good
anchoring ground, consisting of mud mixed with sand. Along the north-
eastern side of the bay, the rocks do not run ofi" more than a cable's length,
except at Jaiar Point, whore ii reef, visible above water, projects for a dis-

7'A JAVA.

tance of 3 cables' lengths. There are many rocks, both visible and sunken,
on the South side of the bay and near Mandra Island ; one of them, called
the Castor, is particularly dangerous, from its being in 11 fathoms and near
the anchorage ; it carries 2 feet at low water, but is only made visible by
the breakers during the sea-breeze, its top not being above 8 ft in diameter.
To the south-eastward of it 43 yards, there is another rock of the same kind
carrying 2^ fathoms. From the Castor Eock the ISorth end of Mandra
bears S.E. by E., Byoek Point S. i E., and Pantyoer Point W.S.W. i W.
The best anchorage for a large ship in Zand Bay is about the middle, in 12
or 1 3 fathoms water, and with the following bearings : the North end of
Mandra Island S.E. by S., Pantyoer Point W.S.W., Jaiar Point N.E. J E.,
and Eagat Point N.N.E. ^ E., or about half a point open of the farthest
visible land to the northward. When anchored on these bearings a ship
will be N.E. ? E., about 900 yards distant from the Castor Eock, and to
avoid that danger it is advisable, when entering the bay, not to bring the
North point of Mandra Island to the southward of S.E. by S.

Two sunken rocks lie southward of Castor Eock at 2 cables from the shore,
and at the distance of 6 and 7 cables westward of the West point of Mandra
Island. Another rock lies 2 cables W.N.W. of the West end of Manok
Island, and the water East and South of this is dangerous.

At the N.E. and S.W. sides of the bay the mountains approach close to
the sea, but the S.E. shore is more even, and high and marshy alternately.
The hills and the low land are all covered with high trees, and near the
beach with bamboos.

The largest river which discharges into Zand Bay is the Latoe, S.E. i E.
from the isle of Mandra. The vertical rise and fall of the water is there 4
feet 10 inches, and at half tide the river is navigable for boats.

The rivers Kanter and Maringo, at the eastern side of the bay, in which
there are waterfalls of 400 and 200 feet in height, are barred by breakers
across their mouths, and consequently not navigable.

To the southward of Zand Bay, between the points Pantyoer and Kapoo,
there are two bights, also surveyed, in 1837, by Captain Ampt, and found to
contain good anchoring ground, mostly white sand with shells, and mixed
with some clay.

From the numerous rocks along this part of the coast these bights are
avoided by all strangers, but they are really very convenient to anchor in
during the night in the eastern monsoon for vessels bound to Wynkoops
Bay, and not being able to reach that road. A ship will then be well
sheltered here, and also with southerly or even south-westerly winds, but
in the western monsoon it would be very dangerous to anchor in either of
them. Both these bights contain wood for fuel, plenty of fish, and turtle in
abundance.

Between Kapoo Point and Capo Monyol, which bear S. h W. and N. A E.

THE JAVA SEA. 735

3 miles from each other, there is another bight, -with regular soundings of
20, 15, and 10 fathoms, and good anchoring ground, but H.N.M. corvette
Castor, having remained here a ■whole day at anchor, found that she was not
sufficiently sheltered, and that the surf was so high that landing was deemed
almost impossible. In proceeding to the southward, towards Cape Anjol,
the greater is the swell and the higher the surf; and although the lead
marks from 10 to 40 fathoms, between 4 and 8 miles off shore, the coast to
the southward of Kapoo Point affords no safe anchorages. Upon the rocks
of Cape Anjol the sea breaks with tremendous force, preventing all inter-
course with the coast ; and in the eastern monsoon, as soon as a ship comes
abreast of this cape, she will find that the wind considerably increases.

From Wynkoops Bay the coast of Java stretches 9 miles West to Gehang
Point, and from thence it trends more north-westerly. The coast is high and
rocky, but becomes more level to the westward at Sussa Point, where there
is a sandy beach ; the whole coast is covered with trees. In the whole of
that interval there is but little anchoring ground, and in many places very
near the shore no bottom with 100 fathoms line. A little to the eastward of
Hussa Point there is a bank of soundings carrying from 15 to 30 fathoms
water, coarse sand and mud, and extending to Trowers Island.

From Hussa Point, off which a reef projects a mile to the south-eastward,
and between it and Malang Point, there are many rocks near the shore, but
mostly visible. To the westward of the latter point is the mouth of the
Piver Tjibinoeangan, which is said to be navigable for small proas, provided
there be no swell. From the point of Mentoyong, to the westward of that
river, some shoals stretch out full 2 miles to the southward along with some
sunken rocks, while, by keeping more to the southward, towards Trowers
Island, 10, 16, and 17 fathoms water will be found. From the southern
extremity of those shoals the following bearings were taken ; Hussa E.N.E.
I E., Sodon Point W. h S., and the western point of Trowers Island S. by
AV. f W.

CAPE SANGIAN SIRA.— The coast from thence to Cape Sangian Sira
and Java Head, as well as Trowers and Klapper Islands, with adjacent
depths and dangers, have been described on pages 152, 153, ante, in con-
nection with the account of Sunda Strait.

THE JAVA SEA.

' The space comprised between the islands of Sumatra, Borneo, Java, and
Celebes, is known by the name of the Java Sea. It is more than 800 miles
from West to East, and has a breadth of 250 miles. For a great portion of
its area there is no proper survey, and therefore it should be navigated with.

736 JAVA.

more than ordinary caution, as defective charts are stated to have been one

cause of disaster.

The East Coast of Sumatra between Sunda and Banka Straits has been
described on pages 181 to 187 ante. The dangers which lie to the eastward
of the direct track between these two straits will be now described. The
JVorth Coast of Java has just been given in detail.

Tie THOUSAND ISLANDS (Duizend Eilanden, Dutch).— The Thousand
Islands have been surveyed by Lieut. Dijsrink, D.R.N., whose chart was
published in 1862. They are about sixty in number, and approach within
2 miles of the Hoorn Islands (page 680), and the northernmost Pulo Boea
and JVorth Island is in lat, 5° 24J', so that they extend 22J miles in a North
and South direction.

Previous to the survey they were but little known. Among the southern
groups there are many lurking rocks and reefs ; this portion should there-
fore be carefully avoided, unless well acquainted. The channel between
their South end and the northern side of the Hoorn Islands appears to be
quite clear, and there are numerous passages between them to the north-
ward, but, as before said, they should not be attempted by a stranger.

The northern part of the Thousand Island group is described on pages
183, 184.

The following are the dangers to the eastward of the Thousand Islands : —

Sireen Rocks, reported in 1838 as a patch of breakers, in lat. 5° 19' 30" S.,
long. 106° 34' 45" E., has since been searched for carefully without any suc-
cess, and its existence is now considered as diproved.

ARNEMUIDEN ROCK lies East of the North "Watcher. As the position
of the latter island has been altered in latitude and longitude, it is probable
this may account for the differences in the positions of this well-determined
shoal, which is in lat. 5° 12' 30" S., long. 106° 42' E.

Molenwerf Shoal, a doubtful danger, is marked in lat. 5° 13' S., long.
106° 50' E. Etna Shoal lies 4|- miles southward of it.

The Etna Shoal, so called by Lieut. Groll, although covered by the sea,
was very probably not far below its surface, as the swell occasionally broke
upon it. It was impossible for a boat to go upon the shoal to sound, but
close to were 20 fathoms mud, with much shells and coral sand. At 1^
cable's length there were 13 fathoms, same bottom; although less sand
■when farther from the shoal. The position was determined to be 5° 17' 18"
S., and 106° 55' E. Lieut. Groll found no other danger.

BROUWERS SHOAL has been determined by the Netherlands survey to
be in lat. 5° 17' 30" S., long. 107° 0' 20" E., about 8 miles north-eastward of
its position on the old charts.

The SOUTH WATCHER, or Pulo Ampel, or Peniekie, lies in 5° 42' 47" S.,
and 106° 42' 17" E., and bears N. ^ W. 13 miles from Dapur Island, from
whence it is just visible, but from the deck of a large ship the island may be

NASSAU or. IvKOYA BANK. 737

discovered in clear weather at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues. It is small,
thickly covered with wood, and surrounded by a reef which projects to the
N.E. about 450 yards, and to the South and West about 100 and 220 yards.
This reef is very steep, with 8 fathoms close, and at two boats' lengths 24
and 23 fathoms, mud ; it cannot, therefore, be approached by the lead.
From the deck of a ship off the South Watcher, Dapur and the Thousand
Islands cannot be seen, but from her tops they will be just visible.
. NASSAU or Kroya Bank was surveyed, in 1841, by Lieut. T. Groll, in
H.N.M. steamer Etna, with great accuracy. It bears N.E. ^ N. from Dapur
Island, S.E. ^ S. from the South Watcher, and N. by W. from Edam; in
5° 49' S., and 106° 49' E. The natives, who are commonly very well ac-
quainted with the existing dangers, assert that there are no other shoals
than this ledge between Edam and the South Watcher, which need be
avoided by ships, although Lieut, G-roll found some patches with 5J and 7
fathoms to the westward of Nassau. The shoalest ledge upon the Nassau
was If fathom, according to Lieut. Groll, and round it 3 and 4 fathoms,
coral bottom. It stretches E.N.E. and W.S.W. about 300 yards, with 17
fathoms very near it, and a little farther off, 16 fathoms, mud with shells.
From this ledge Alkmaar in Batavia Eoads was just concealed behind Edam,
80 that they afford a fair mark to avoid it by keeping these islands well open
of each other.

A Q-fathom patch lies S.W. 25 miles from Nassau Bank.

A shoal of from 20 to 7 fathoms was sounded on by Th. Schut, of the
Dutch frigate Maria Elise, Dec. 11, 1861. Its position is given as 5° 50' 15"
S., long. 107° 35' 30" E., or about 43 miles W. by N. of Eackit Island light.

DIRECTIONS. — Ships leaving Batavia and bound to Banka Strait, ought
to steer betwixt Eynland Shoal and the eastern reefs, and proceed on a
northerly course through the Great or Edam Channel ; this course leads be-
tween the Hoorn and Haarlem Islands, and Monnikendam sandbank on the
port side, and Leiden, Enkhuizen, Alkmaar, and Edam on the starboard
side, but avoiding the shoals near Dapoer and Edam.

From Edam steer for the South Watcher, avoiding the Nassau Ledge
by keeping Alkmaar open to the westward of Edam. From the South
Watcher do not steer too much to the westward towards the Thousand
Islands, especially in the eastern monsoon, when a ship is liable to be driven
in a calm amidst unknown dangers, where there is sometimes a current of
4 miles an hour. The South Watcher may be passed on either side, but off
the North Watcher, beware of the Arnemuiden, and other shoals more to the
eastward. To avoid them with certainty, give the North Watcher to the
eastward a berth of 6 miles. A ship may also pass the North Watcher on
its western side, but then she must borrow towards it, so as to clear tho
Two Brothers, and the Lynn Shoal, and to give a sufficient berth to the
I. A. 5 b

738 JAVl SEA.

Brouwer Bank. From the North Watcher shape a course for Lucipara'
about N. by W. ; but in the western monsoon, with S.W. and westerly
winds, it will be prudent to steer more to the westward, borrowing toward
the banks which project from the Sumatra coast as far as to 11 to 9 fathoms,
but they should not be approached nearer than 9 fathoms, particularly in
the night.

Ships that have passed through Sunda Strait, and are bound to Banka
Strait, should steer a direct course N. by E. for the Two Brothers, after
having passed also the Zutphen Islands and North Island, according to the
directions before given. It is prudent to keep within a moderate distance of
the Sumatra coast, in order to avoid the shoals in the offing; 11 or 12 fa-
thoms is a good depth. With a working wind, a good mark in daylight is,
when standing in-shore, to tack when North Island is just in one with the
highest Zutphen Island ; the depth will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms,
and a large ship should not risk a less depth when working between North
Island and the Two Brothers.

The Islands and Reefs which lie off the North coast of Java to the east-
ward of Batavia have been described in previous pages. The following are
between it and the South coast of Borneo.

The SOLOMBO ISLANDS are but little known. Great Solomho, or Nma
Ltmho, is about 100 miles E. f N. from Bavian Island, described on page
704. It is said to be 5 or 6 miles in length from North to South, where it
terminates in a high, fiat-topped hill, about 550 ft. high, visible 24 miles off.
This hill is in lat. 5° 33' S., and about long. 114° 27' E. The greater part of
the island is a long projection of low land.

The middle island, or Little Solomho, is about 3 leagues to the northward
of the former, its eastern extremity bearing N. J E. from the hill of Great
Solombo. Its centre is in 5° 21i' S., 114° 28' E. This island is neither so
large nor so high as the former, and between them the channel is 6 miles
wide, and considered to be safe. The North coast of Little Solombo should
however, be approached with caution, as Capt. Milbank, of the Shun Zee, in
1869, saw what he thought to be the wreck of a barque on some rocks, off
the N. W. side of that island.

Arends or Arentes Island, the northernmost of the group, is in 5° 1' S., and
114° 35' E., and bears N. by E. i E., about 9 leagues from Little Solombo ;
a little islet lies off its South end. The channel between it and Little So-
lombo seems to be safe, but tide rips and a reef with fishing stakes is marked
on the chart as extending 7 miles E.S.E. of its S.E. end. The South end
of Arentes may be passed at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, but the western
side should be approached with caution, on account of a rocky spot, upon
which an American ship struck in January, 1794, the captain reporting that
he had 18 fathoms just before and after striking, and one cast of 5 fathoms
immediately after the shock ; the track of 18 fathoms should therefore be

SOUTH COAST OF BORNEO. 739

avoided. This rock must lie about 3 leagues West from Arends, but its
position has not yet been accurately ascertained. Fishing stakes extend 4
miles oflP the N.W. end of the island.

The Rosalie Rock was discovered, in 1823, by Capt. Baptist, of the Dutch
Indian ship Rosalie, on her passage from Sourabaya to Macassar. According
to his statement, it lies in 5° 56' S., and 8 leagues S.S.W. { W. from Great
Solombo, which brings it in longitude 114" 15^' E. Rosalie Rock has the
appearance of a small island of reddish sand, with one tree in the centre. It
seemed to be about 6 ft. above the sea, and all round it small rocks above
water, which was very deep, as the ship was at anchor in 42 fathoms, at 1
mile distant.

The islands and shoals which lie still farther to the eastward will bo
described in connection with the Strait of Macassar hereafter.

The SOUTH COAST of BORNEO is but little known, and has not been
surveyed. Therefore what follows respecting it must be received with all
caution. It was made to accord with the charts drawn up by the late Mevill
van Carnbee and W. F. Versteeg, 1859.

TANJONGr SAMBAR, the S.W. headland of Borneo, has been described
in connexion with the Carimata Strait, in a former portion of this book, page
281. To the eastward of this, Yeritam or Ajer Hitam Bay extends for 22 miles,
a small river of that name falling into its head. Tanjong Ajermata is its
eastern limit, to the East of which is a considerable river, the Kwala Djellei,
has a broad entrance. Off the coast to the East of this, shoal water extends
20 miles seaward, and facing the western limits of the Bay of Rotaringin,
the name of the Dutch province, and the river which falls into it, at 40 miles
East of the mouth of the Djellei or Dieley. The Koemai River enters the
next bay to the eastward, and the coast here assumes a southerly direction
for 35 miles, terminating in Tavjong Poeding, or Flat Point, in lat. 3° 30' S.,
long. Ill" 55' E.

From Flat Point the coast trends to E.N.E. for 70 miles to Sampit or Pa}i-
daran Bay,, which from the map appears to be an extensive inlet, and is an
open port for exports and imports ; Tanjong Malalajer, lat. 3° 30' S., long.
113° 30' E., is 30 miles S.S.E. from the entrance to this bay, and at about
30 and 42 miles respectively to the E.N.E., are the mouths of the Great
Dayak or Kohajau River, and the Little Bayak River. Off these rivers there
is a very extensive sand-bank, said to extend for 20 miles and more off the
land, and beyond this are some shoal patches 10 leagues from the coast.
One of these, in lat. 4° 0' S., long. 113° 50' E., has 4J fathoms, with 8 fa-
thoms close to it, and the land of Borneo is just visible from it, bearing N.E.
\ N. All these remarks, however, are of the most vague description.

BARITO or BANDYER BIYER.—Bandjermasin, a port of call for the
Netherlands' India Steam Navigation Company's boats, and an open port
for exports and imports, was once a very important pepper port of the Dutch,

740 JAYA SEA.

and stands about 13 miles up the Barito Eiver, about 23 miles eastward of
the Little Dayak Eiver. It is the port of a principality acquired by the
Dutch in 1785, and is now held by that nation. The river has been surveyed
by P. H. Wedden, and the following directions by Capt. Godtare, adapted
to that chart.

The entrance of the river is formed by Tartjong Boerong on the East side,
and Tanjong Bedalla Toea on the western, these being 2f miles apart. At
about a mile N.E. from the latter point is another, called by Captain Grodt
Bearing Point, being the visible extreme, used as a mark for sailing over the
bar. This bar is 7 miles to the S. 3o° E. of Tanjong Bedalla Toea. The
channel lies between banks of hard clay and sand to the eastward, and of
mud and clay westward, and the bar has from 11 to 16 ft. at high water, the
bank on the western side being nearly dry at low water, and another rock
lies near the bar on that side.

Buoys. — Two white on the eastern and two hlack buoys on the western side
were placed, in 1876, to mark the channel across the bar of the Barita
Eiver. The outer black buoy, in lat. 3° 39' 33" S., long. 114° 25' 54" E., is
in 7 ft. water, S.S.W. from the West entrance point of the river ; the outer
white buoy, in 7 ft. water, three-quarters of a mile N.E. by N. from the
black buoy. About If mile within these outer buoys, and to the N.N.W.
of them, lie the two inner buoys. The channel within these buoys is
marked by eight ball beacons on the port side and five ninepin shaped bea-
cons on the starboard side.

To enter, bring Bearing Point to N. 35° E., and Tanjong Boerong N. 58**
E., and you will then be on the outer edge of the bar in 3 fathoms water.
Eromhence steer N.E. | N. in 16, 15, 13, and 14 ft. water, to bring Bearing
Point N. 34° E., when Tanjong Boerong bears N. 66" E. ; then steer N.E. |-
N. until the former bears N. 25° E., and the latter E. by N., when you will
be inside the bar in from 15 to 20 ft., and should steer N.E. ^ N. for the
mouth of the river, and clear of a narrow spit that projects a considerable
distance from Tanjong Boerong to the westward. Bearing Point may be
approached to within 30 or 40 fathoms if necessary. From hence local
knowledge is necessary to take a ship up to Fort Van Tuyl, at the South end
of the town. Mid-channel is the best track to keep clear of the trees, and
to avoid the eddy tides near the points.

CAPE SALATAN, or Tanjong Soengiharoe, of the Dutch charts, in lat.
4° 10' S., long. 114° 41' E., is the southern point of Borneo, and the high
land over it, called Gunong Eatoos, appears like islands when seen 10 or 12
leagues o£F. This high land forms a ridge of peaked hills, stretching east-
ward toward Pulo Laut, but close to the sea the coast is low and wooded.
The district is called Tanah Laid, and is very populous.

The coast hereabout may be approached to 10 fathoms, but 14 fathoms is
a good depth to preserve in passing Cape Salatan, and from hence towards

LITTLE PTJLO LAUT. 741

Pulo Laut it may be approached with caution to 7 or 8 fathoms ; the former
ought not to be passed at a greater distance than 8 or almost 10 leagues, on
account of Arentes Island, on the South side of this passage, and a rocky spot
to the westward of that island.

Dangers. — Between Arends Island and Pulo Laut there have been several
isolated dangers reported. Bampton Bank, a small patch of 2 fathoms, lies
20 miles N.E. ^ N. from Arends Island. At 15 miles northward of this
danger is a 4-fathoms patch, surrounded by depths of 14 and \o fathoms. It
was discovered by Capt. Duaud, and named by him Oiseaujc Bank. Buattd
Bank bears from Cape Salatan S.S.E., distant 22 miles. There have been
no dangers reported between these and Little Pulo Laut Islands, but at 5
miles off Tuka Point the Dutch S.S. CoeJioarn reports having struck on a 2-
fathoms patch in lat. 2° 58' S., long. 115° 25' E. At 11^ miles N.E. by E.
^ E. from this is a sunken rock, 4 miles off the land and 1 1 miles beyond this
a 2i fathoms bank was discovered in 1869 by the S.S. Betsy, 5 miles off
the land and 15 miles S.W. J W. from the "West entrance point of the Pulo
Laut Strait.

LITTLE PULO LAUT, or the Lauriot Islands, are mostly high, and ex-
tend 9 miles from N.W. to S.E. The S.W. island, 2IaUa Sin, is in lat.
4° 51' S., long. 115° 43' E., and about 850 feet high. The shore is rocky.
On the N.W. side of the northernmost island, the Laurel filled up her
water from some deep holes or wells under the trees at the foot of the
mountains.

Moeso Siri, or the Moresses, in lat 4° 23' S., long. 115° 50', is a group of
three islands, the highest of which lies 15 miles N. by E. of the northern-
most of the Little Pulo Laut cluster. It is formed like a pyramid, and has a
regular peak at the summit.

There are three or four islets or rocks above water contiguous to them ;
they lie near each other, the largest in the centre. They ought not to be
approached nearer than 3 miles in the night, for the outermost rock is about
1^ mile to the southward of the high island, and is on with the body of it,
bearing N.N.W. ^ W.

PULO LAUT, which lies off the S.E. end of Borneo, and forms the S.W.
side of the Macassar Strait, is 56 miles long from N.N.E. to S.S.W., and
from its South point a reef of breakers projects almost to the nearest island,
Btdo Koenyit, which is small and bold-to.

The STRAIT of PULO LAUT, which separates that island from Borneo,
is said to be too narrow lor large ships, but may be followed with a com-
manding breeze, and in daylight. The southern portion of it was surveyed
by the Dutch officers A. H. Huijsman and G. A. de Lange, in 1848, and this
shows a clear channel, with from 6 to 4 fathoms throughout its southern half •
but beyond this, to the northward, it is more intricate. Wo have no avail-
able directions fur it.

CHAPTEE xyri.

ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF JAVA.

OtTR knowledge of the islands eastward of Java is not so exact as that of
other parts of the Indian Archipelago, but much has been done through the
zeal of the Dutch officers, who have been stationed here. They have recorded
a vast number of excellent observations, and these have been collected by
the Dutch commission for the improvement of the East India charts. Among
these officers who may be cited as foremost in this good work, are P. Baron
Melvill van Carnbee, Eietveld, Boom, J. Van Gogh, J. M. J. Brutel de la
Eiviere, P. F. Uhlenbeck, T. Van Capellen, E. F. de Scijflf, C. Bosch, &c.,
&c. These remarks have been collected in the Directions drawn up by Lieut.
H. D. A. Smits, of the Dutch navy, 1848, which have been followed here.

BALY ISLAND AND STRAIT.

The Island of Baly or Bally is 82 miles long East and West, and about 50
miles in its greatest breadth, containing about 1,700 square geographical
miles. An excellent and elaborate account of it and the adjacent island of
Lombok, has been drawn up by Melvill van Carnbee, and published in the
Moniteur des Indes, 1846.

It is very mountainous ; a ridge, apparently a continuation of the Java-
nese ranges, traverses nearly the whole of it from "West to East. One of its
peaks, in the eastern part, far overtops all the rest, and is seen very far off
at sea, 70 to 80 miles in the wet or rainy monsoon, when the air is clear
of clouds or fogs. In the opposite season its head is usually enveloped in
clouds. This Peak of Baly, properly Gmiong Ago7ig, or Agoeng, lat. 8° 20' S.,
long. 115° 28' E., is 11,326 ft. high, inferior only to those of the Java peaks,
and nearly equal to that of Tenerife. The island is chiefly volcanic, and
resembles in a remarkable degree the geologic formations of the East end of

CAPE PASSIER. 743

Java. The South point, or Tafelhoek, is a calcareous formation of very recent
geological origin, according to M. Zollinger. Besides Agong, which broke
out in 1843 into a state of activity, several other mountains are still showing
the effects of that volcanic agency which has manifested itself in such terri-
ble forms here. Earthquakes, as may thus be supposed, are very common.
The most disastrous was that of November 22, 1815, seven months after the
famous eruption of Sumbawa, which covered Baly with a bed of ashes more
than a foot thick. That of November 22nd was felt as far as Sourabaya,
and lasted an hour ; and one of the mountains which lie in the rear of Beli-
ling, on the North coast, was overturned and rolled down, and a subterra-
nean lake burst out with incredible fury.

From its elevation, Baly is abundantly provided with water by numerous
streams. Eice is consequently the chief article of cultivation. The people
are a mild and tractable race, of industrious agricultural habits, and, on the
coast at least, chiefly profess the Hindoo religion. The island is very popu-
lous. M. Huskus Koopman, the Dutch commissioner, in 1842, estimated it
at 700,000, or more than 480 to the square mile, a remarkable density of
population, which is a powerful argument as to their industry. This small
island is divided into eight independent principalities, each of which abuts
on the coast. It is very favourably placed for commerce and revictualling.
I:s trade is chiefly in the hands of Chinese and Buginese. The Dutch formed
a trading post at Kotta, in the South Peninsula, in 1839, but it was given
up. Owing to the frequent insults to the Dutch flag, the governor ordered
an expedition to Baly in 1846 ; this attacked and took Beliling on the North
coast, on June 28th in that year, after a strong resistance. Their bravery
was forgotten on a subsequent attack, when the Dutch force was compelled
to retreat. But the ultimate result was to cause the native princes to respect
Dutch commerce, to endeavour to suppress piracy, and consent not to allow
any European power to become possessed of their territory.

The NORTH COAST of BALY runs generally East and West, and belongs
to the States of Beliling and Karang Assem, the latter occupying the East
end of the island.

CAPE PASSIER, before mentioned, the N.W. point of Bali, forms the
narrowest part of the strait, which, between Baly and Java, is here only 1^
mile wide. A reef projects about half a mile from Cape Passier, and is
marked by a white buoy, but the Java shore is steep-to, and may be ap-
proached without fear.

The coast to the eastward of this cape has three places to which vessels
resort, Tebunkus, Beliling, and Sangsit, all on its western part. They can
only be visited in the eastern monsoon.

St. Nicolas Bay lies 5 miles eastward of Cape Passier. The northern part
appears to be free from dangers, but it has no convenient soundings j in the

744 BALY ISLAND AND STRAIT.

southern part two dry reefs are seen, and it is probable that there exist other
dangers thereabout.

Minjangan or Herten Island, contiguous to the shore, to the westward, is
surrounded by a reef, which projects far to the eastward and westward.
There is a dry patch of coral and sand off its western end, and at low water
the whole reef is olten visible. In the passage between Minjingan and Bali
soundings may be had in 12, 15, and 20 fathoms, but there is a sunken rock
in the strait S.S.E. from the West end of Minjingan. Ships may shelter in
the strait during the western monsoon.

Banju Wedan Bay, to the eastward of St. Nicolas Bay, is nearly closed by a
reef, and turns immediately to the eastward ; proas may lie here hidden from
the sea view. There is a warm spring at its head.

Gunong Sandan is 6 miles East of Banju Wedan Bay. It is close to the
shore. The low point to the westward of Mount Sandan has a large reef
running off W.N.W. and W. by N. along the shore, inside of which num-
bers of piratical proas may lie concealed.

Gunoncf Gondol, or Mount Goendel, 4 miles eastward, is a small peaked and
bare hill, which may be known by its yellow aspect, standing on a low land-
tongue projecting to the northward, so as to form a safe sheltering place, and
at the same time a good lookout for the pirates.

To the northward of Mount Goendol there is an extensive reef of an oval
shape, with 20 fathoms near its northern edge, then 9, 4, 3, 2, 3, and 7
fathoms rocky and sandy bottom, and 24 fathoms to the south- south- west-
ward, which enables ships to pass (having a fair wind) between the reef and
the shore, so as to overtake the pirates in their sheltering place on the East
side. From the reef. Mount Goendol bears S.S.W., Plakkie Point, West-
northerly, and Mount Sandan W. by N. nearly. Another small reef, with 4
and 6 fathoms, and 18 fathoms on its northern edge, bears N.W. by W. from
Mount Goendol, distant 2^ miles.

There is a single rock carrying 7 and 9 fathoms, with Mount Goendol
bearing S.E. by E. | E., Plakkie Point S.E. by E. :^ E., and another more
extensive reef stretching E.N.E. and W.S.W., with 4, 3, 2, If, 4, and 7
fathoms on it. Mount Sandan bearing W. J- S., and the North point of Min-
jangan or Herten Island W. by N.

From the N.W. points of two other reefs, in soundings of 2| and 9
fathoms. Mount Sandan bears S.W. | S., and the East point of St. Nicolas
Bay W. f N. The innermost reef is partly dry.

From the East point of another extensive reef, in 2f fathoms. Mount San-
dan lies S. i E., and the East point of St. Nicolas Bay W. ^ N.

From the centre of a smaller reef, south-westward of the last mentioned,
in 3 fathoms, Mount Sandan was found to bear S.E. by S., and Mount Goen-
dol E.S.E.

Tebunkos.— The road of Tebunkos, or Teboenkoes, in 8° 7' S. and 115° E.,

BELILING AND SANGSIT R0AD3. 745

18 said to be the best on the North coast of this island, being sheltered from
N.W. and North winds by a dry coral reef, which fronts the shore at the
distance of 380 yards, and inside of which first-rate ships may lie in safety,
but they should moor W.S.W. and E.N.E. in mid-channel, so that vessels
may swing clear of the shoal water on both sides. Between Antoran Point
to the eastward and Cape Koanjer to the westward, many dangerous reefs
project to a considerable distance from the land.

Bound to Tebunkos, keep the reef, which may be known by a small house
and some trees on it, bearing South ; round it very closely on either side,
and moor to the southward of it in 13 or 14 fathoms.

The ebb runs westward, and the flood eastward ; generally only one flood
and one ebb tide are observed in 24 hours. At full and change of the moon
it is high, water at 5 o'clock, and the rise of the tide is 6 or 7 feet at the
springs.

Beliling and Sangsit Eoads, — Beliling or Bleleng, the chief village of the
N.W. principality, is 7 miles E.N.E. of Tebunkos, and Sangsit is 3 miles
farther on in the same direction.

There is anchorage all along the shore between Beliling and Sangsit
Points, at 1^ or 2 cables' lengths off shore, on a steep bottom of coral and
eand. During the western monsoon the anchorage opposite to the Beliling
fort is considered unsafe ; it is better to lie then inside of the reef to the
westward of Sangsit Point, which is about 4 cables' lengths distant from the
latter, being steep-to, and having patches of only IJ fathom. At Beliling
Point there is a steep reef, of which several rocks are visible above water.
With the river bearing South you may stand in for the anchorage without
fear. Beliling Eiver will be known by the proas lying inside ; its entrance
is in 8° 5' 30" S.

Light. — A red light was first shown at Sangsit in September, 1877.

The N.E. Coast oi Bali is still more unsafe than that to the westward. The
principal points being Eoehoe and TJoelik, at 1 8 and 6 mUes respectively, from
the East point of the island.

To the eastward of Sangsit the high mountains nearly reach the coast ;
near Tianiar the chain is split by a deep ravine ; it then passes the village of
Tiolik, and forms, under the name of Mount Seraja, the bold eastern ex-
tremity of Bali, sends out ridges southward towards Labuan Amok and
Padang Cove, and slopes down to the southward in low, cultivated land.
The coasts are steep-to on either side, though close inshore some anchorage
may be found in considerable depths.

Mount Agong, or, as it is usually called, the Peak of Bali, is the highest

point of the chain of mountains which terminates in the East point of Bali ;

its summit is often visible at the distance of 80 miles. The most remarkable

summits of the chain are the four peaks of Mount Tabanan, about the centre

I. A. 5 «

746 BALY ISLAND AND STEAIT.

of the island, and the volcano Bator, although the latter is not very high,
the smoke issuing from its crater may be perceived at a great distance.

Cape Karang Assem, the eastern point of Bali, is in about lat. 8° 21' 30"
S , long. 115° 41' E., and is formed by the eastern slopes of Gunong Seraja,
a mountain more than 4,000 ft. in height. Ktibu Manalc, a small island, lies
off its eastern extremity.

Oedjong, the landing place for the chief town of the Karang Assem state,
is 6 miles S.W. from Manak Island.

There is anchorage near the village of Oedjong in 20 fathoms, 3 cables*
lengths off shore, the village and the peak bearing N.W. \ W., the N.E.
point of the land N.E. by E., the islet of Asam S.S.W. ^ W., and the East
point of Pandita Island S. \ W.

Green or Groen Island is 5 miles farther to the S.W. The passage inside it
is safe.

Amok Bay, or Lahuan Amok, is very safe during the western monsoon, the
bottom being not so steep, and there is little surf on the sandy beach ; the
soundings decrease regularly from 35 to 10 fathoms at 2 cables' lengths from
the beach.

Padang Cove is separated from Amok Bay by Castor Point, and is nearly
filled up with reefs, between which there remains only a small gullet about
82 ft. broad, where small craft may find anchorage in 2 J or 3 fathoms.

Castor Point, between the cove and Labuan Amok, may be known by a
temple standing on it. The village Padang is seen in the back ground, be-
tween tufts of trees. The S.E. coast of Bali is safe to approach, but there
are no soundings near it, unless close in shore. The anchorage near Lebi,
at 9 miles "W. by S. of Padang, is said to be safe in both monsoons, and ships
may anchor there in from 15 to 8 fathoms, abreast of the sandy beach.

Panteh. Timor, or the eastern road of Bali Badong, is safe during the
western monsoen ; ships may moor inside of the reefs along the shore. The
entrance between the reefs, however, is very narrow and intricate, and as the
tides set with great velocity over the points of the reefs, it is dangerous to
haul a ship inside.

From Benoa Point, the southern side, on which is a flagstaff, a reef runs
south-eastward, the outer edge of which bears about North from the Bro-
thers, two small islands lying close to the shore. The low island of Serangan
extending between the points of the bay, is lined by a broad reef, which is
steep-to, and has a sharp point projecting to the southward. Schooners and
small craft may haul inside through the channel between these reefs. At full
and change it is high water about 11 o'clock.

The Pandita, Banditi, or Salomlo Group, situated between 8° 39' and 8° 48'
S., and 115° 22' and 115° 31' E., appears from the southward as high table
land, with a small peak on its East end. It is dangerous to approach these
islands, as the tides run there with tremendous rapidity.

TAFEL HOEK. 747

The channels on both sides of the group are safe, but the western is to be
preferred, as the eddies are not so violent there, and there being anchorage
near the Baly shore. There is also a patch, with soundings of 30 fathoms,
on which ships have stopped a tide in fine weather, Kassoemba (which may
be known by large store houses on the beach) bearing N.W.

TAFEL HOEK, or Table Point.— The southern part of Baly, called Tafel
Hoek, is a high peninsula, joined by an isthmus to the body of the island ;
the isthmus, upon which there are two villages, Kotta on the North side, and
Toehan to the south-eastward, is barely a mile broad. On both sides of it
there are anchoring roads, of which the westernmost is used during the
eastern monsoon, and the other, just alluded to, during the opposite
monsoon.

Panteh Barat. — The western road, or Badong Bay, is not, however, quite
safe during the eastern monsoon, on account of the heavy rollers which enter
about full and change of the moon, nor after very blowing weather ; these
rollers often cause the chains to part, or oblige the vessels to leave the road,
and therefore they ought never to moor there.

Coming from the westward, a high tree, standing near Toeban, may be
seen long before the low land can be discerned, and soon afterwards the flag-
staff and a small house, the lower part of which is whitewashed. The shore
is covered with heavy breakers, which project a long way opposite to tho
flagstaff. The anchorage is unsafe on account of the heavy swell which comes
round Tafel Hoek, very far from the village of Kotta, and the landing is
dangerous. Westward of the reefs are soundings in 12 and 15 fathoms, and
close to their edge 6 and 7 fathoms. There is a bar W. i N. from the flag-
staff, with 2| (or If) fathoms on it, at low spring tide ; there remains a
passage with depths of 3 and 3 J fathoms between the bar and the reef. The
bar diminishes greatly the swell of the sea, and the anchorage inside is safe,
although lying in the midst of breakers. It happens, however, that vessels
lying too near the bar, or when the breakers on it are very high, are some-
times obliged to leave this anchorage, and run for shelter to the northward of
the bar, where the breakers do not reach. By keeping the high tree, which
stands to the northward of the flagstaff, between E.S.E. and S.E. by E., you
may work in-shore till in 5^ fathoms ; but, if not acquainted with the place,
it is prudent to anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms, with the flagstaff bearing S.E. by
S., and to send for a pilot.

It is high water at full and change of the moon at 1 1 o'clock, and the rise
of tide amounts sometimes to 8 or 10 feet. The export of rice to China and
Singapore is considerable, and supplies are to be got in abundance, also cattle
and poultry, the watering place is near the flagstaff.

The S. W. coast of Baly, beyond this, which also forms the Strait of Bali,
stretches to N.W. and W. by N. for 38 miles, whence it assumes a more
northerly direction for 20 miles to Cape Passier, before mentioned. It is

748 BALY STRAIT.

generally lined by a reef with a great surf upon it, which, however, is the
only danger near this coast, and in calm weather ships may anchor along it
ir from 12 to 18 fathoms. This facility of anchoring, together with the
pretty regular land breezes, make it easy to work along this shore in the
eastern monsoon.

Manok Bay lies about 4 miles to the southward of Cape Passier ; the en-
trance is barely a ship's length wide, and inside of the bay there are three
small islands, surrounded by a flat of mud and sand. To the eastward of
the islands there are only 2 fathoms, and the cove near the watering place
has only water enough for very small proas ; fresh water is very scarce. The
tides run with great velocity round these islands, and the perpendicular rise
of the water is from 8 to 10 feet.

BALY STRAIT.

With the exception of the Strait of Alias, to the East of Lombok, the Baly
Strait is to be preferred to all the passages eastward of Java, as there is
anchorage on both sides of the Narrows, which may be gradually passed in a
single tide. Another advantage of Baly Strait is, that ships bound to Europe
during the western monsoon are not so much liable to fall in with the coast
of Australia as when passing through any of the other eastern passages.

Wi7ids. — From February to September southerly winds prevail in Baly
Strait, and during the other months baffling westerly winds, succeeded by
calms and heavy squalls, probably caused by the high land of Java. During
the eastern monsoon fresh breezes occur from S.S.W. to S.W. to the eastward
of Cape Sedano, while steady East and E.N.E winds, succeeded by land
breezes from South to S.S.W. are found to the westward of the same cape ;
from July to November the S.W. winds to the northward of the strait blow
rather strong, while at the same time fresh northerly breezes, varying be-
tween N.W. and N.E., prevail to the westward of the cape. This change
of the winds takes place immediately to the eastward of Cape Sedano, or
when the strait opens ; but past the strait, or when approaching the coast of
Baly, the wind diminishes in force, and veers gradually to S.E, Mount
Goendol seems to be the limit of the S.W. winds, or of the influence of the
strait in rendering the winds unsteady and variable. The southern part of
the strait being much wider the wind is not so strong there, and near the
shore of Baly the regular land breeze usually occurs.
The currents are noticed on page 31, ante.

The EASTERN COAST of JAVA, forming portions of that of the Dutch
provinces or Besidentces of Bezoeki and Banjoewangi, is about 70 miles in extent
from Cape kSedauo, the N.E. to the S.E. point of Java.

CAPE SEDANO— DUIVEN ISLAND. 7^9

CAPE SEDANO ia in 7^^ 49' 12" S., and 114° 27' 30" E. ; it is rocky and
steep, and the middle one of three points near each other. The volcano of
Gunong Baloeran, or Telagu Woerong, or Tafelborg, 4,347 feet, bears W.8.W.
^ W., nearly from Cape Sedano, and N.N.E. | E. from Mount Idjing.

The anchorages of Tinjang, Toe, and Assam, to the southward of Sedano,
are much frequented by the pirates ; they are formed by detached reefs, and
have only single entrances and little space inside, but at Kajang, 3J miles
South of the cape, a large number of proas may lie concealed, and may
escape either to the northward or southward.

Pirates also often take shelter inside the reefs of Tiotek, 10 miles to
N.N.W. of Bape Sedano, which stretch parallel to the shore between the
points of Tiotek and Loemoet ; they consist of 4 large reefs above water and
some other shoal patches. Those passages between the three westernmost
are the widest, and lead to the anchorages of Lahuan Gattal and Labuan
Gollek near which there is a watering place.

MEINDERS DROOGTE, or Karang Maas, in 7° 41' 30" S., and 114° 22'
30" E., has been before described on page 718, together with its lighthouse.
It bears N.N.E. from Mount Sedano, E. f N. from Mount Ringit, and N. f
W. from the easternmost point of Java. Ships passing between Java and
the rocks ought not to approach close to their S. and S.W. sides, on account
of the reefs.

Tanjong Tjandibang is 5 miles South of Cape Sedano. A bank, covered
with only 3 feet water, lies about a mile off shore, Mount Sedano bearing
W.N.W. z W., Mount Idjing S.W. and Tjandibang Point, with some trees
on it, S. by W. ^ W. The 2-fathoms bank is the north-easternmost danger,
and is known by its discoloured water. Mount Sedano bears N.W. i N. ;
Mount Idjing S.W. by W. I W. ; and Tjandibang Point, North from tho
shoal.

It is also said that the 2-fathoms bank lies S. by E. of Cape Sedano, and
N. by E. ^ E. of Duiven Island, and about 3 miles off shore ; it consists of
five rocks close together, with only 6^ ft. water over them. It will be, how-
ever, prudent not to bring Duiven Island to the southward of S.S.W.

There are two reefs to the south-westward of the 2-fathoms shoal ; they
bear about N. and S. from each other, and on t*he southernmost, in sound-
ings of 5 fathoms. Mount Sedano was found to bear N.N.W. ^ W. Another
rock, close to which 19 fathoms were found, lies with Mount Idjing bearing
S.W. by W. I W., Mount Sedano N.N.W. h W., and Tjandibang Point
N. by E. From another shoal, to the southward of the former, Mount
Idjing bears W.S.W. i W., Mount Sedano N.N.W. i W., Tjandibang
Point N. by E., and Duiven Island S.S.E. I E. All these dangers have
also light-green discoloured water.

DUIVEN ISLAND, also named Taboean or Gilboan, is small, and sur-

750 BALY STEATT.

rounded by a reef, which projects to the North and S.E. of the island, and
bears E. | N. from Mount Idjing.

LIGHTHOUSE, — An open iron framework, 30 ft. high, was completed in
1872, on the East side of Duiven Island, and from it is shown, at an eleva-
tion of 55 ft., Si fixed hright light, visible 12 miles off. Lat. 8° 2' 30" N., long.
114° 27' E. Duiven Island is dangerous to approach, as the current sets
strongly towards it, so that vessels can only be saved from driving upon it
during a calm by their anchors holding against the reef in 60 fathoms depth.
It was the practice for piratical proas to lie in wait on the North side of the
reef for vessels coming out of Bali Strait. The passage to the eastward of
this island is preferable, as there are dangers to the westward, but in light
and favourable breezes the western branch may be adopted, there being an-
chorage N.N.W. from the island in 40 fathoms ; or, by keeping a good look-
out for the reefs, in 20 fathoms closer in shore. When going out by the
western passage, if overtaken by the contrary stream before reaching the
northern anchorage, vessels are better able to fetch the anchorage to the
southward of Dodol.

The first anchorage is in the bight to the southward of the first point
following after Batoe Dodol (which place may be known by a bridge over a
creek, with a guardhouse near it), in 18, 12, and 10 fathoms, and in the eddy.
There is also anchorage, but closer in shore, in the small bays to the
southward of this, as far as the high tree on the Java shore, but it is
difficult to reach them with light winds if the vessel is not near the shore.

The dangers of Baly Strait begin when you approach the high tree 2 miles
N.N.E. of Banjoewanjie. This tree is difficult for a stranger to reognise, but
a beacon is marked on the chart as situated on a point of the land near it.
At three-quarters of a mile S. by W. from the beacon is North Rock, oT 3
fathoms, a small patch lying 3 cables off shore. It lies with the high tree N. f
W., and the flagstaff of Fort Utrecht S.W. by W. | W. Vessels co:; ing
from the northward, and bound to Banjoewangie during the eastern mon-
soon, are sometimes obliged to pass this rock at low water, and as there is
often a great swell, it is considered very dangerous ; but by keeping Mount
Ikan about a ship's length open to the eastward of Pakkem Point they will
pass to the westward of the rock.

The Leptford Shoal stretches here along the shore, being a reef of rocks
with unequal soundings. Its North end lies in 6 ft. water, with the flag-
staff of Fort Utrecht, Banjoewangi bearing S.W. by S., Pakkem Point in
one with the western foot of Mount Ikan S. \ E., the high tree N. | W., and
a white bmxj on its South end S. by W. westerly, 3^ cables distant. This buoy
lies half a mile N.E. of Banjoewangi Light.

Cameleon Rock, a small patch of 3 fathoms, marked by a white buoy, lies
nearly a mile E.N.E. of Banjoewangie Light.

Further southward lies the (J real Rock, which carries 2 fathoms water ;

BANJOEWANGIE. 751

from the black buoy on it the pier at Banjoewangie is seen in one with
Fort Utrecht W.N.W., the high tree North, and Mount Idjing N.W. | N.
Inside of this rock lies another, also marked by a Uach buoy. It is called
the Kaiman or Crocodile, with 2 fathoms water, the fort bearing W. by N.,
the high tree N. ^ E., andPakkem Point S. | W.

BANJOEWANGIE, the Dutch settlement in Baly Strait, from which the
telegraph cable leaves the shore to cross the water to Port Darwin, is the
chief town of its province, and 8 miles South of the Narrows. It is an open
port for exports only, and is a place of call for refreshments for vessels pro-
ceeding by the eastern passages. The water is good when the pipes are
clean, otherwise it soon becomes fetid. The town is not always readily dis-
tinguished in the afternoon, when the sun is behind it ; a good guide then is
the Bakungan Mountains, a triple topped range on the Baly shore, from
which it bears West.

The road of Banjoewangie is limited by the last-mentioned reefs. There
is very safe anchorage there during the western monsoon, in from 1 2 to 8
fathoms, when ships should moor North and South, and they may then take
their cargoes on board without the least difficulty. But during the eastern
monsoon the South and S.E. winds blow strongly in the afternoon, and often
in the morning too, and cause a great surf on the shore, through which only
very small proas can pass. It is not advisable to anchor a sailing vessel
close in during the S.E. monsoon, for the difficulty in getting out may cause
detention.

Light— A /xec? light, elevated 41 ft., is shown from Fort Utrecht, seen 12
miles off; lat. 8' 12' 50" S., long. 114° 22' 30" E. With the light between W.
by S. ^ S., and West, you may approach the road clear of all dangers.

The river cannot be entered unless at high water, and then the surf is
generally most high. Mount Idjing bears from the pier N.W. ^ N., and
Mount Ikan south-easterly.

There is a patch of 5 and 6 fathoms on a hard bottom, to the eastward of
which there are 9 and 10 fathoms, to the northward 7, 6, and 4 fathoms, and
to the southward 8 and 9 fathoms. The patch bears E. i N. from the fort,
and North from Pakkem Point.

To enter the roads from the northward, keep the land immediately to the
southward of Pakkem Point in view, and do not approach the shore in less
than 15 fathoms before the fort bears West, nor bring the house on the pier
in one with the fort, on account of the Groots Rock ; this will lead to the
eastward of all the dangers. Passing between the Cameleon Eock and the
Deptford Rocks, keep Pakkem Point well open of the foot of Mount Ikan
but it is not required to keep in sight the land to the southward of Pakkem
Point.

When the fort or its fixed light is brought to bear West steer direct for it
till in 12, 20, or 8 fathoms clear bottom, where you may bring up ; but some

752 BALT STRAIT.

attention is required on account of the streams of tide while nearing the
shore, as they run sometimes in a contrary direction to those in the middle
of the strait.

To avoid the rocks to the southward keep the pier so as to view it always
on its North side. The best anchorage is with the fort bearing West, the
high tree N. J E., and Pakkem Point, South.

A vessel desiring to have a pilot in the strait ought to give due notice
beforehead to the pilot at Banjoewangie, of the place from and the date on
which she intends to sail. He then will take care to have one ready on her
making the signal, near the Java shore at anchor on the reef opposite Ta-
boean Island. During the eastern monsoon the pilots seldom cruise, as only
a few vessels then require their assistance.

Departing from Banjoewangie bound to the southward, do not approach
too near to Pakkem Point, as a reef projects from it about 3 miles. Its
outer extremity is marked by a hlach buoy with white ring, in 4 fathoms,
with the highest Bakungau mountain bearing E. by N. ^ N., and Fort
Utrecht N.N.W. \ W.

Anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms may be found all along the shore from Pak-
kem Point to Pampang Bay.

A dangerous spot was discovered S.E. 2 miles from Pakkem Point, in
1865 by H.N.M. steamship Bromo. It has 3^ fathoms least water, and lies
with the flagstaff at Banjoewangie N.W. | N. ; Mount Ikan S. ^ W.; Mount
Eaoe W.N.W. \ W. It is only about 35 ft. in diameter, and has 15 or 16
fathoms close around it. Its eastern edge was found by Captain M'Kenzie
to bear N. \ E. from Mount Ikan, Pakkem Point in one with Banjoewangie
N. ^ W. distant 5 miles.

Mount Ikan, 14 miles South of Banjoewangie, is an isolated flat-topped
bluff, separated from the Sloko Hills by a low isthmus, causing it at a dis-
tance to appear like an island, forms a very safe bay, sheltered on the
eastern side by this hill, which is about 400 or 500 ft. high, and on the North
side by the projecting land of Java, so that the water is smooth in both the
monsoons. The southern shore is covered with thick forests of jattee trees.
There is anchorage from the entrance to 3 or 4 miles inwards, on the eastern
side of the bay, in depths from 12 fathoms, regularly decreasing to 3 fathoms,
the bottom coral sand, but not farther to the westward of the Mount Ikan
shore than half a mile or a mile. The beach on the eastern side is lined
with a small reef, consisting of coral and mud, and the W. and S. shores by
muddy flats.

S.E. CAPE of Java is the extremity of the low Balambangan peninsula,
on the northern side of which is a range of hills which terminate on the East
at Cape Sloko. The points of the low land dip at 10 or 12 miles, causing a
false point to be seen beyond that distance. An extensive coral reef borders
the cape, but North of the Sloko ranges the shore is very steep, and a ship

CAPE TAFEL. 753

working; through may stand in boldly. There is no safe anchorage near the
Java shore to the southward of Mount Ikan.

The Prince of Orange Bank, in the middle of the strait, is a 6-fathom bank,
on which ships may anchor in case of calm and contrary tide. It is about 4
miles in extent, with soundings from 6 to 24 fathoms, black sand, mixed
with stones and shells. It lies with the low East extremity of Java, S. by
W ; eastern summit over Cape Sloko, S. W. ^ S. ; and the summit of Mount
Ikan, W.N. AY.

CAPE TAFEL, the South extreme of Baly Island, is a peninsula of table
land, bordered by a high broken cliff and a few small reefs. Though about
300 ft. high, it may be styled low in comparison to the adjacent mountain-
ous country. The western part is the higher and bolder, the eastern tapers
into a low point, off which is a low island. Soundings of 20 fathoms may
be found West and South of the West cliff at the distance of a mile. Badong
Bay, North of Cape Tafel, a£"ords shelter from S.E. winds, with anchorage
in 8 to 6 fathoms, sand and mud, good holding ground ; but there is little or
no protection from the heavy ground swell that rolls in from South.

DIRECTIONS.— Ships bound from the Strait of Madura to Baly Strait
during (he eastern monsoon work between Java and Meinders Shoal, the
dangers near the former being all above water ; but to the West and south-
westward of Meinders Shoal there is a reef extends about IJ mile, which
may be known by light-green discoloured water.

After rounding Cape Sedano, the wind will change to S.W. or S.S.W.,
which will enable them to fetch the Baly shore about Minjangan Island or
Mount Goendol, from whence it is easy to work towards the strait. Should
adverse tides or approaching night forbid an entrance to the strait, ships
should keep under an easy sail. If the stream runs to the northward they
will not be liable to approach the shore, and by keeping Minjangan Island
to the southward of S.S.E., and the high mountain of Idjing to the south-
ward of West, they will avoid Taboean Island and the dangers near the coast
of Baly.

When the tide changes, work with short tacks between Minjangan and
Taboean Islands, and keep the Java shore on board, when in the Narrows,
to avoid the reef off Cape Passier ; the Java shore is preferable also, because
the sea is not so boisterous there as near Baly. When the tide is goin" to
change, search for anchorage in the bays to the southward of Dodol, the
Java ehore being safe to approach as far as the high tree.

When past the high tree, keep Mount Ikan well open with Pakkem Point,
or, rather, stretch over to the eastward so far as to get in view the land to
the southward of Pakkem Point, and do not borrow towards Java in less
than 15 fathoms before Fort Utrecht bears West, for which they may then
steer as before directed. When working to the southward of Banjoewangie,
!.▲. 6X>

75 i LOMBOK ISLAND AND STRAIT.

keep Mount Ikan to the westward of S. by W., to avoid the reef off Pakkem

Point.

The southernmost safe anchorage on the Java side of the strait is in
Pampang Bay, nevertheless keep on the Java shore until near S.E. point, as
the sea is usually smoother there than near Baly, aud no tide perceptible.
Havino- approached the S.E. point, stretch over to Baly, and work along
that shore with the land and sea breezes, occasionally anchoring in from 12
to 18 fathoms.

If bound through the strait, keep Mount Ikan well open of Pakkem Point,
or, rather, keep the land to the southward of this point in view until you
are to the northward of the high tree, when it is advisable to keep nearest
to Java, to be the sooner in anchorage if required, and to avoid the reef off
Cape Passier. You may pass on either side of Duiven Island at a moderate
distance ; the western passage is preferable in case of light winds, as there
is anchorage to the N. W. of that island in 40 to 20 fathoms. Great care is
requisite in approaching the Java shore, on account of the several dangers
near it ; and should a contrary tide come before you reach the anchorage to
the northward of the Narrows, you must endeavour to reach the anchorage
to the southward of Dodol. When nearing the 2-fathom shoal it is prudent
not to bring Duiven Island to the southward of S.S.W. The N.E. part of
Java may be approached within 2 miles.

Vessels working through the strait will save time by taking a pilot, for
the tides are irregular and require local knowledge.

Tides. — Near to Duiven Island the establishment of the port at S"*. Flood
runs to the North, ebb to the South. During the N.W. monsoon, Decem-
ber, January, and February, the ebb is very weak, especially near the times
of high and low water. It is also stronger by night than by day.

LOMBOK ISLAND AND STRAIT.

LOMBOK, Lombock, Sassak, or Selaparang, is the next island eastward
of Baly, separated from it by the strait to which it gives its name. Although
of a very ditferent figure, it is very nearly of the same area as Bali, and of
similar geologic formation. It has also a very lofty peak on its N.E. angle,
which overtops the other mountains of which it is principally composed.
This is called Rindjanie Peak, and was measured trigonometrically by Mel-
ville van Carnbee as 12,379 ft. ; Horsburgh states that he found it by the
same means to be only 8,688 ft., but the Dutch officer is confident in his
own observation. It is an extinct volcano, in lat. 8° 21' 0" S., long. 116° 27'
E., and appears double when seen from the southward.

This peak forms a portion of a chain of mountains, which traverse the

THE ROCKY ISLETS. 755

island from West to East ; and to the southward is another and lower chain,
which has a similar direction. From its elevation, like Baly, it is abundantly
Bupplied with water in the rainy season, when its numerous rivers swell to
an enormous volume, and send down vast quantities of water; but during
the dry season the reverse is the case, and then scarcity prevails in many
parts, so that vessels coming here at this period are compelled to bring water
with them.

The people, though more advanced in civilization than in surrounding
countries, are difficult to deal with. Europeans are established in the two
principal places, Ampanam on the West coast the chief port, and Tring in
the S.W. bay, and through them the barter or trade may be conducted.
They owe in some degree an allegiance to the Dutch, but all caution should
be used in any dealings with them. They make excellent krises or swords,
and firearms, which are in great request in the islands around. Eice is the
staple production, and the fertile valley in the centre of the island is skilfully
and zealously cultivated. The island now prospers, but two-thirds of the
inhabitants perished in the dreadful eruption of Sumbawa in 1815, the whole
island being covered with ashes to the depth of 18 inches, accordin"- to
M. Zollinger.

The North coast is steep-to and without anchorage. In the old charts two
dangers are laid down to the northward of the islands, which seem not to
exist, as many ships have made a fruitless search for them.

A range of small islands, named Trawangan, Meno, and Si'ra, lie off the
N.W. point, or Cape Roeuihek. There are numerous rocks around them, and
the coast runs East and West for about 44 miles.

The North point of the island is a green point, in 8° 11' S., and the land
thereabout has a fruitful appearance, and seems to be well peopled.

The N.E. point of Lombok is fronted by two low islands called the Twins
(Tweelings), which are surrounded and united by a reef with a boat passage
across it ; the road to Sogean is inside of these islands, having anchorage in
from 8 to 1 2 fathoms. Water is to be had at the village of Sogean on the
river Melanting. The channel inside of these islands is safe, with soundings
from 11 to 16 iathoms mid-channel, regularly decreasing towards Lombok
over a sandy bottom, and generally increasing towards the reef round tlie
islands, which is steep-to, with 16 fathoms near its edge. The Lombok
shore, as well as the Twins, may be approached to the distance of a quarter
of a mile, as a man from the masthead can see all the dangers on either
side.

The Eocky Islets at 12 miles South of the Twins is a group of three low
rocky {Rotsige, Dutch) islands bearing S.W. by S. from each other, and a
dry sandbank ; but they are all connected by a reef which projects about a
mile to the south-eastward. The channel to the westward of the group is
free from danger, with regular soundings from 15 to 17 fathoms throughout.

756 LOMBOK ISLAND AND STEATT.

The channel to the eastward of them is much wider, but destitute of sound-
ings, for which reason the former is more generally used. When proceeding
to the southward, the Lombok shore ought to be kept at least a mile distant
in order to avoid the shoal on which the Surat Castle, an English Indiaman,
struck in March, 1796. It is a coral patch of 3 fathoms, lying a little to the
South of the point of land that bears W. by S. from the South extremity of
the Eocky Islands, and opposite to a fresh-water creek in the bight, to the
Bouthward of that point. There are overfalls from 25 to 10 and 6 fathoms,
coral rock, about 3 or 4 miles S.S.W. from the Eocky Islands, but not less,
it is believed, than 6 fathoms.

Sagara, near the village of Lomhok, is only adapted for small vessels. It
is sheltered by a dry sandbank and a narrow channel with soundings of 3
and 4 fathoms, from a point of land which projects to the northward, and
forms a cove. The anchorage inside is safe in both the monsoons, and it is
much easier to water there than at Laboe Hadye. There is a road across
the island from this place.

Labuan Hadji or Bally, is 12 miles South of Lombok. The road is not
quite safe during the eastern monsoon, as the anchors often drag when the
sea breeze is very strong. The anchorage for large ships is in 17 or 15
fathoms, black sand, about 1^ or 2 miles off shore, with Lombok Peak bear-
ing N.N. W., the southernmost bluff island on the Sumbawa side of the strait
E.S.E., and the next to the northward E. ^ N. or E. f N. These islands are
the best guide to know when abreast of Labuan Hadji, for, being situated
behind a tope of cocoa-nut trees, it is not easily perceived from the offing.
Ships ought never to go under 10 or 11 fathoms. Boats sent to fetch water
anchor inside of the reef at the mouth of the river ; the casks are filled about
100 yards from the beach, and then floated off to the boats. The water is
good, but ought not to be filled when the tide is high, for it is then brackish,
and during the south-eastern monsoon it is often tedious getting water off
from the shore. Eefreshments of every description are to be procured here
in great plenty. The flood sets to the northward, and the ebb to the south-
ward, about 1|^ or 2 knots at the springs ; it is high water in the roads about
12*" 30" at full and change, but nearly 3 hours sooner upon the shore, and
the rise of tide is 10 or 12 ft.

Pedioe, Peejow, or Pejoet, is more frequented than Labuan Hadji, being
more safe and convenient for watering, as the river is navigable by boats.
On Cape Louar, the North point of the bay, there is a flagstaff in about 8°
47' S. and 116° 32' E. The anchorage is in 7 or 8 fathoms, with Lombok
Peak bearing N. f W., the southernmost island on the Sumbawa side of the
strait E.N.E. ^ E., the flagstaff on Cape Louar, North, Eingiet Point in one
with the southern part of the Tafel Berg near the S.W. point of Sumbawa
S.E. Eingiet Point, on this bearing, is a good mark to avoid the reefs to
the southward of the anchorage, and this line ought not to be passed when

AMPANNAM. 757

entering the bay ; the only other dangers to be avoided are the reef off Cape
Louar, which is nearly dry, and a rock bearing 8. f W., about a cable's
length distance from the flagstaff, and visible at low springs. Capt. Kingdom
discovered also, in 18 46, a sandbank with 3^ to 5 fathoms on it and 8 fatlioms
all round, Eingiet Point bearing S.E. i S. southerly, East Island S. by W.
i W., and the flagstaff on Cape Louar N. W. | W.

The SOUTH COAST of Lombok, between Cape Eingit and Cape Bamho
Bamho, the S.W. point, is about 50 miles from E. to W. There is a small bay,
Telok Longas or Blongas, which it is said affords safe anchorage in the westerly
monsoons, but quite exposed in the opposite season. The S.W. point is the
extremity of a peninsula which forms a bight on the North side, in the head
of which is Tring, one of the best anchorages in the island.

A rock, scarcely showing above high water off the South coast of Lombok,
was discovered by Captain B. van Eiethagen, in the bark Sophia Zoutze, in
1864 ; when it bore E. by N., the South point of Panditi Island bore W.N.W.
^ W., and the S.W. point of Lombok N.W. It lies 5 miles off shore.

Labuan Tring. — In running for Labuan Tring from Ampanam a southern
course will about lead down the bay, but in blowing weather it is preferable
to haul out S. by W. ^ W. at first, and when abreast of Karang Point, easily
known by a little conical hill near it, and about 2^ miles from Ampanam,
Bteer South, or more easterly if required, as you approach the cove. The
western side of the entrance to the cove is bluff, and readily distinguished ;
the East point is low and sandy, with bamboos and brushwood. Entering
the cove, keep nearest to the eastern shore, as a reef runs off the other. A
good mark is, to bring the low point about S. by E., and run in with that
bearing till a high bluff point on the East side of the cove be seen. Haul
round the East point until it bears N.N.W. J W., or N.W. by N., and bring
up in about 10 fathoms, mud and clay, 2 or not more than 3 cables' lengths
from the beach ; the water here will be quite smooth, although a great deal
of swell may be in the entrance. A reef surrounds the island, which lies
E.S.E. of this anchorage ; of this be careful by bringing up close to the beach,
which is so steep-to that 4 fathoms will be found over a boat's stern when she
touches the ground forward, except near the eastern extreme point. There
is also a good berth in the West side of the cove close in-shore in 6 or 7 fa-
thoms, mud, care being taken not to run beyond the small islet. There are
three good wells near the huts on the eastern side of the cove. Firewood
and bamboos may be cut in plenty, but any other supplies, excepting plan-
tains and cocoa-nuts, are scarce.

AMPANNAM or A?npanam is the chief trading place of Lombok. It is
on the West coast, at about midway between Tring and the N.W. point. It
affords an excellent sheltered road during the eastern monsoons, but during
the westerly monsoons it has no security whatever from the swell and wind.

758 LOMBOK ISL.\ND AND STEAIT.

At all seasons there is usually a very heavy swell, which makes the taking
or discharging cargo difficult and even dangerous.

The large bay of Anipanam is a safe road during the eastern monsoon, as
before said, and Labuan Tring Bay, in the S.E. part of it, sheltered from
all winds. A group of islands and reefs fronts the southern shore of the
bay ; and there is a bank of coral aad sand, with soundings of from 10 to 25
fathoms, on which the Heroine lay at anchor during a fresh S.E. breeze, the
first island to the northward of the West point of Lombok bearing S. by E.
about 3 miles. There is also anchorage a little southward of the North
point of the projecting S.W. land of Lombok.

H.N.M. frigate Boreas watered here in June, 1838, and filled daily 2,000
gallons ; at high water boats can enter the river, but otherwise the casks must
be carried across a neck of land. Cattle are cheap, and all kinds of provi-
sions are to be had there. The mouth of the river cannot always be dis-
cerned at a distance, but it may be known by the huts along its banks.

There is a rocky patch, with only 2^ fathoms, to the north-westward of the
flagstaff, probably the same on which, in 1811, the boats of H.M.S. Psyche
had 3 fathoms, Lombok Peak bearing E. by N., and the North point of the
bay N. by W. \ W. There are 2^ fathoms on a shoal S.W. of Karang
Point, and near the shore, having 6 fathoms all round.

The tides in the bay are seldom found to be strong ; the rise of tide is
from 5 to 7 ft., and it is high water, at full and change of the moon, about
8 o'clock.

The best marks for Ampanam Bay are, the peak of Baly bearing W.N.W.,
Lombok Peak between E.N.E. and N.E. by E., or the river bearing E. by N. ;
but it is not safe to approach the shore, after having passed the ridge, in less
than 10 fathoms, as in some parts the soundings decrease very rapidly from
7 to 3 fathoms. During the western monsoon (from November to April)
ships ought to anchor "i miles off shore, so as to be able to run for Labuan
Tring, if need be. On appearance of bad weather the chains should be
buoyed, and everything ready to slip.

Trawangan, or North Island, before mentioned, is 13 miles N.N.W. of
Ampanam. It is the highest of a group of three islands near the N.W.
point of Lombok, in 8° 20' S., and 116° 1' E., and from its North point
Lombok Peak bears E. by S. H.N M. steamer Hecla anchored in 15 fathoms
with this island bearing from North to N.W. by N., Eombeh Point S.
by W., Mount Agong, or the Peak of Baly, West, northerly, and a river
S.E. by E.

Siwa Reef lies N.E. 5 miles from Trawangan Island, and a doubtful reef
is marked on the chart at 4 miles ofi" shore, and 10 miles north-eastward of
Siwa Reef.

During the East monsoon, strong winds from S.S.W. to S.E. prevail in
the Strait of Lombok, and during the western monsoon N.W. winds ; during

ALLAS STRAIT. 759

the former the southerly currents are the strongest, and during the latter
they run with more velocity to the northward.

The STRAIT of LOMBOK, between Lombok and Bali, is 36 miles from
North to South, and from 10 to 25 miles in breadth. The Bali side has beea
previously described, and the Lombuk shore is given above.

Entering Lombok Strait, with an adverse current during the eastern mon-
Boon, most progress may be made by keeping the Baly side on board until
the peak bears West. By stretching over then to Lombok, a ship will very
likely fetch the road of Ampanam, especially if the Baly side of the strait be
left early in the morning for the sake of the sea breeze from the southward.
With a contrary current, it is difficult to get down on the Lombok side of
the strait, and on the Baly side after the peak bears to the northward of
West. The channels on both sides of Pandita Islands are safe, but the
■western one is to be preferred, as ships may anchor occasionally near Baly,
and the ripplings are not so strong there as to the eastward of these islands.
Although the route through Lombok Strait is liable to great delay, it is often
used by ships bound to China, which pass St. Paul and Amsterdam Islands
in the latter part of January, or in the beginning of February ; the passage
through the Strait of Alias is, however, generally quicker. Care is then
requisite not to fall to leeward of the intended strait. The high peaks of
Bali and Lombok may be seen in clear weather about 8 leagues to the south-
■ward of the straits, the latter one showing from this view two summits over
the high western part of the island.

ALLAS STRAIT.

Alias Strait, separating Lombok from Sumbawa, is about 45 miles long
on a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and from 9 to 15 miles wide. Although
it has not been properly surveyed, it is probable that all its dangers are
known, and it has some advantages over the straits to East or West of it.
The Lombok side has been just described,

The West Coast of Sumbawa, about 45 miles long between Tangong J,ahu
Bua, the N.W. point, and the S. W. point of the Table Hill, which forms that
extremity.

Mr. H. Zollinger, who visited this coast in 1847, gives the following de-
Bcription of it : —

Kamoedong, Tawar, Segattal, and Belo, the north-easternmost of the islands
•which front the N.W. coast of Sumbawa, are low, with rocks contiguous to
their points, and deep channels between them. There are soundings from 4
to 14 fathoms in the channel inside of these islands, and the bays of Paddie,
Boeer, and Alias, afford anchorage. The latter is a cove, 12 miles from.

760 ALIAS STRAIT.

Labu Bua Cape, stretching about South, and deep enough for large ships.
To the south-westward of Belo are the islands of Bassar, Genang, PatakiOy
Oenet Passeran, and Tatagen, all high, and Belang, a low island, and the
southernmost of this group. Inside of the latter islands are soundings from
25 to 30 fathoms.

Taliwang Bay. — The road of Taliwang affords a secure anchorage during
the south-eastern monsoon. From the bluff North point of the bay, Lom-
bok Peuk bears N.W. ^ N., the southernmost island in the strait W.N.W.
^ W., and Eingit Point S.W. by W. \ W., and the South point of the bay
S.E. by E. i E. 12^ miles from Labuan Hadji, or Laboe Hadye ; the bay
may also be known by a peak near the beach, rising to a height of about
1,570 English feet. Water and wood are easily procured, and provisions are
cheap, but they must be ordered a day before.

Ships in want of water and wood should anchor to the south-eastward of
Knoop Island, in 15 or 16 fathoms; but wh^n provisions only are wanted,
they may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, 8. by E, from a storehouse, standing
near the bluff North point of the bay. The natives are polite and ready to
assist.

The straits to the eastward of Java being all more or less subject to fre-
quent calms, it is advisable to keep in soundings, on account of M'hich the
Lombok side of the strait is to be preferred, the more so as the currents are
not so strong there as in the middle, ond on the East side, of the strait.

The Strait of Alias is easily known in coming from the southward, the
S.W. part of Sumbawa being high rugged land, whereas the East end of
Lombok is composed of steep cliffs, facing the sea. The S.W. point of Sum-
bawa is a double table-hill, in 9° 2' S., and 116° 47' E., and Lombok Peak
bears N. by W. ^ W. from the entrance of the strait.

With the S.E. point of Lombok bearing W.N.W., and the S.W. point of
Sumbawa S.E. by E., soundings are got in 64 or 70 fathoms, clean bottom ;
but farther to the southward and eastward the bottom is rocky, and no sound-
ings less than 80 or 90 fathoms.

In the south-eastern monsoon, the winds blow strongly from the southward
during the greatest part of the day, but they subside towards evening, when
the land wind from Lombok begins. In the western monsoon, variable and
bafflmg southerly breezes are often experienced in the Strait of Alias.

Bound to the southward, it is advisable to get underway very early in the
morning, in order to clear the strait if possible, before the sea breeze sets in.

There is good anchorage on the western or Lombok side of the strait ; in
many parts the bank of soundings is very steep, extending only a short
distance from the shore, and requiring careful attention to the lead while
approaching it in the night time. Stock and fresh water can be obtained at
a reasonable price at Bally, Pidioe, and Lombok, and at Alias on the Sum-
bawa side.

SUMBAWA ISLAND. 761

The prevailing current is from the southward, which, in the centre of the
strait sometimes runs 3 or 4 knots. In June, 1845, H.M.S. Fly experienced
an equally strong current from the northward.

At Bally the tides are described as regular, the flood coming from the
southward, and setting along shore at from 1 to 2 knots per hour.

SUMBAWA ISLAND.

The Island of Sumbawa, Sombawa, or Soembawa, is one of the most re-
markable in the world, possessing as it does the most tremendous volcano
known. It is of very singular form, being deeply indented by arms of the
sea, especially on its North side. Its character and proximity to Celebes and
Oillolo, and their fantastic forms, point to their common igneous origin.

The elevation of the great volcano Tambora, or Tumbora, is 9,040 ft.

The great eruption of Tumbora occurred between April 5th and 17th, in
1815, and it, for a time at least, destroyed the island, which from a fertile
and thriving region become a desolate waste. The whole area was deeply
covered with volcanic ashes to the depth of from 4 to 2 ft. -, nearly two-
thirds of the inhabitants perished, a large number buried alive in the ashes,
the rest dying from want and starvation. According to M. van den Broek,
there were only 20,000 to 25,000 men who survived, and it was not for many
years that any immigration took place, and then a multitude of Buginese
and Makassars took possession of the land, and restored it to more that its
previaus fertility. The area over which the ashes fell extended from near
to Bencoolen in Sumatra to Timor, a distance of more than 1,500 miles apart,
East and West, and over the South portion of Borneo, Celebes, &c., for a
diameter of 900 miles.

The natives are a good-natured people, and the island produces a great
quantity of sandal-wood ; the trade in horses is considerable.

Madang or Flat Island, the centre of which is in 8° 8' S. and 117° 18' E., lies
off the North side of Sumbawa. It is very low near the "West end ; the
northern part is a little elevated, and may be seen from deck at a distance of
16 miles in very clear weather. It has reefs from the North and S.W. points,
and a dry spot near its northern edge, from which the East point of the
island bears about S. by E. The S.E. shore forms a small bight, opposite to
which a single ship may find anchorage in 30 fathoms a mile off shore and
half a mile from a reef.

Majo, or Maio, 7 or 8 miles E.S.E. of Vlak, is an extensive island, regu-
larly high, with the exception of the East point, which appears at some dis-
tance as a low and separate island. A reef projects from the N.W. point ;

762 SUMBAWA ISLAND.

and the bay on the West side of the island is full of shoals, behind which
the pirates often take shelter. In former times the West part of Maio was
inhabited, and there are several springs of good water on that side of the
island. The frequent visits of the pirates obliged the inhabitants to leave
this island for Sumbawa.

Setonda Island, off the N.E. point of Maio, is in 8° 6' 30" S., and 117° 43' E.
It is of moderate height, with the top appearing somewhat flattened, when
seen from the north-eastward ; the reefs from the points are of very small
extent. Viak, Maio, and Setonda, are all uninhabited, for the pirates often
make their appearance there.

The Bay of Sumbawa to the southward of Flat Island, and to the eastward
of Labu Bua Point, the N.W. cape of Sumbawa, has no other dangers than
the reefs along the shore, which project most from the West point of the
bay, about 2 cables' lengths, and are steep-to and dry at low water ; the an-
chorage is in 20 to 16 fathoms, clay bottom, about 2 cables' lengths offshore.
Entering from the northward and steering toward the centre of the bay, the
soundings decrease regularly but rapidly from 40 to 17 and to 7 fathoms
within a short distance from a dry sandbank opposite to the river's mouth ;
and as the bay is open from N.N.E. to N.W. by W., a vessel cannot be con-
sidered safe during the western monsoon. The landing is easiest to the
westward of the river on a sandy beach, as the river can be entered only at
high water. The village of Sumbawa is about 2 miles inland.

To the eastward of this bay, and opposite to the South coast of Maio, is
the extensive Gulf of Salee. Mr. H. Zollinger, who explored the whole
island of Sumbawa in 1847, gives the following description of it.

The large Gulf of Salee extends about 13 leagues in a S.E. direction, and
is about 4 leagues wide. The entrances along the N.E. and S.W. points of
Maio are both narrow ; the western one being about a gun-shot wide. The
South point of Maio is pretty bold, but reefs project from Menangis and
Gayong Points, on the southern shore ; and in the bight of Peniaring between
these points there is shoal water.

Gayong Point forms the West side of an inlet with deep water inside,
which stretches about 4 miles South, called Bango, or Bunga, with a small
village. The entrance of this inlet bears S.W. by S. from Setonda, but it is
too intricate for ships, having reefs on either side.

Liang and Negalie, two long, narrow, and hilly islands, stretch parallel to
the coast, and form two narrow channels with deep water stretching about
N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; proas may enter them at both ends. The southern
beach is inhabited by fishermen, and about 3 miles inland stands the large
village of Lapie.

The next bay to the south-eastward is called Tieris ; then follows Kollong,
a large bay, bounded by a monotonous and bai'ren plain, and by low hills to
the southward ; the S.E. winds pass freely over them, and blow strongly in

TAMBORA VOLCANO. 76:5

this part of the gulf. The bottom of the bay is mud mixed witli sand, and
its little depth of water does not permit vessels to stand close in shore ; 3^
miles inland is Plampang, a considerable and well fortified place, governed
by a nearly independent prince.

The island, or rather isthmus, is not more than 8 miles broad.

The Bay of Ampang to the eastward of Kollong Bay is also shallow. There
are several islands in this part of the gulf, called Tengar, Tapan, Keho, Dempoe
(easily known by two peaked hills), Tepie, liah't, a large island. Koivanko
Bay, to the eastward, is shallow ; near its eastern beach is the small island
Balerek, and the long and low island Kowanko, stretching E.S.E. ; Nisaah
Monteh is contiguous to its AVest point, and fronts the bay to the northward.

There are also several inlets in the East part of the gulf, but most of them
are closed by reefs ; they are named Tioerie Lora, Sonapa, and Gempoe, fronted
by the rocks of Poedo ; rivers disembogue in the former and in Sonapa. The
small village Gempoe stands about a mile from the beach ; good fresh water
is to be had here, and the country abounds with game.

The northern shore is uninhabited ; it runs in a straight direction, and is
Bteep-to, affording no anchorage. From August to October, pirates come to
this bay for fire-wood, and greatly disturb the natives, who therefore build
their villages far inland. They often attack proas and ships which pass near
Maio Island.

The tides set with great velocity through the Strait of Salee, and probably
also through the northern entrance to the gulf. The flood sets to the E.S.E.
and the ebb to the W.N. W. ; during the eastern monsoon the latter is strongest,
and it is high water about the moon's meridian passage.

The chains of mountains generally follow the direction of the bays which
they limit, causing S. or S.S.E. and N. or N.N.W. winds in the West part
of the gulf, N.W. and S.E. winds near its centre, and E. or E.S.E. and W,
or W.N.W. winds at its East end. During the eastern monsoon the
northerly winds are light, on account of the vicinity of the high land of
Tambora and Maio, but the southerly winds blow then rather strongly over
the low land of Kollong. Pilots for this gulf are to be had at Sumbawa
Town. There is plenty of wood on either shore, but provisions and fresh
water are very scarce.

TAMBORA VOLCANO.— The Gulf of Salee is separated from the Bay of
Dompo by the isthmus, on which stands the high volcano of Tambora, or
Tumbora. The summit of the mountain is very large, and of a circular form,
in the longitude of 117° 48', and bearing S.E. by E. ^ E. from Setonda
Island.

Dompo Bay.— In former times the Dutch had settlements in the Bay of
Dompo, but they have been abandoned. Mr. Zollinger, on his journey to
the top of Tambora, found a fine spring of water, called by the natives Tam-
poerokh, close to the beach on the western .shore of the bay. Several inlets

764 SUMBAWA ISLAND.

afford good anchorage, tlie westernmost of which, Bioe Bay, is much fre-
quented by pirates. In former times the Dutch had established a trade for
sapanwood at Kamboe, and the road of Kila is very safe during the eastern
monsoon, but the villages along this coast are all deserted now on account
of the frequent invasions of the pirates.

Bima Bay, 15 miles eastward of Dompo Bay, stretches deeply inland, and
forms a safe harbour, where ships lie quite landlocked and sheltered on all
sides by high land. In the wide entrance there is only a temporary anchor-
age. The shores which bound the bay approach each other about 4 miles
from the entrance, forming a narrow channel for about 3 miles in length and
not half a mile in breadth, with soundings from 32 to 20 fathoms, but lead-
ing to a spacious cove, in the centre of which lies the high island Kambing.
The Dutch have a battery near the beach on the East side of the bay. The
narrow entrance is defended by two small bentings, where the Dutch colours
are hoisted. To the southward of Bima the bay forms another spacious covo
with an islet near the southern beach.

During the eastern monsoon, very strong southerly winds, accompanied by
heavy squalls, continue to blow, sometimes for many days, outside of the
narrow channel ; and yet, inside, quite calm under the high land, and im-
possible to enter the bay. The land winds blow regularly during both the
monsoons, and there is therefore no difficulty in quitting it.

Kambing Island lies due South from the Narrows in 8° 26' 45" S., anci
118° 41' E. Having passed the Narrows, the village of Bima will be soon
discovered ; steer directly for it until in 11 fathoms, when a low point on the
opposite side of the bay will be seen open with the South point of Kambing
Island. Do not run farther in, as the depths decrease rapidly from 9 to 2
fathoms on the edge of the muddy flat opposite the village.

It is high water at full and change of the moon at noon, and the rise of the
tide is 6 ft. The landing is difficult, on account of the extensive mud-flat
opposite to the battery ; water is scarce and bad.

From the N.E. point of the bay the South point of Apie Island bears
E. \ N., its N.W. point N.E. by E., and its southern peak E. by N. When
southerly winds prevent the entrance of the bay, it is advisable to anchor on
the East side of the outer bay, as otherwise you are obliged to stand off
during the night, and many days may be lost in a fruitless attempt to
work in.

Sangeang Island or Gunong Api is a high, volcanic, double-peaked
island, ofi" the N.E. Cape of Sumbawa, between the latitudes of 8° 6' and
and 8° 14' S., and the southern or highest peak is in 119° 2' E. It bears S.
by E. i E. from the North peak. The island is very steep-to on every side.
Proas sometimes land there to cut wood. Its N. and N.E. sides should
not be appreached within a mile.

The Eastern Coast of t^umbawa strotchea at first about South to Sapi

SUMBAAVA ISLAND. T6.5

Bay, where it takes an easterly direction till past Midden and Todo Islands,
and then turns again to the southward as far as the southern entrance of the
strait. Near the North point of Midden Island lies Keppek, a small islet,
with two rocks, between which and Setan is the most frequented channel,
being about 3 miles wide ; about 6 miles to the southward of Keppeh lies
Kamara Island, close to Sumbawa.

Sapi Bay is formed by a deep bight in Sumbawa, and sheltered by Mid-
den Island and some adjacent islets. The bay is 1^ mile wide, with sound-
ings from 20 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 17 and 14 fathoms in the
centre, and to 5 fathoms in the southernmost part of the bay ; the shore of
Sumbawa is lined by a reef, but the islands may be approached within a
short distance.

Sapi Town is situated by the side of a creek, at the south-western extremity
of the bay ; ships may procure there every kind of refreshments, which the
natives will barter for toys, fire-arms, empty bottles, &c. ; but single vessels
ought to be guarded against any treachery of the inhabitants.

Rees and Britannia Bays are formed by the projecting points of Sumbawa
to the northward of Sapi Bay, and at either of them ships may procure wood
and water.

The outer verge of soundings stretches nearly in a direct line from Keppeh
to Api Islands ; the soundings decreasing pretty regularly towards Sumbawa
from 60 to 20 fathoms, from half to a quarter of a mile off shore ; but
towards Banta there are no soundings, unless very deep. Nor are sound-
ings to be had in the southern part of the strait South of Setan, beyond half
a cable's length from it ; there are 20 and 25 fathoms between it and the
Low Rocks adjacent, deepening to the northward. Hereabouts the bottom
is all rocky, with overfalls and rapid tides setting past Setan, 4 and 5
knots, and producing strong ripplings like breakers, which render ships un-
governable.

In about 118° 26' E, there is a deep inlet or bay, with a narrow entrance.
Inside is a pearl bank, which was thickly covered by the eruption of Mount
Tambora. Mr. Zollinger visited this bay, which is called Tiempia, and got
a few oysters containing pearls of a small size. He sounded in 2 fathoms in
the Narrows ; but according to the natives there are 4 fathoms in the basin.
Pirates frequent this bay, and they often take shelter inside of Sido and Ten-
gani, the Ragged Islands of the old charts.

( 766 )

SAPI STRAIT.

This passage through the chain of islands, between Sumbawa on the West,
and Comedo to the eastward, is about 20 miles in width. Its shores were
cursorily examined by Lieut. W. T. Baars, D.R.N. , in 1837-8.

The Strait of Sapi, Sapie, or Sapy, was much frequented in former times,
but at present the Strait of Alias is preferred, being both wider and easier.
The northern entrance of the former is divided into two branches by Banta
Island, but the channel between it and Comodo is seldom used, as it is to
leeward during the western monsoon, and has no soundings, while the ebb
tide sets strongly upon Comodo, which is a high and steep land, and sur-
rounded by rocks and reefs. Between Api Island and Banta the sea is clear,
but H.N.M. steamer Hecla, when rounding the N.W. point, at the distance
of a mile, June 2, 1844, fell in with a reef when the island bore S. by E. ^
E. to E.S.E. Another rock lies just N.W. of this islet, lying off the South
end of Banta.

Gili Banta, or Banta Island, may be known by its northern peak gradually
sloping to its low southern point. This peak is in 8° 22' 30" S., and 119"^
15' E. The West side of the island forms a pretty large bay,

Setan, or Macota, is a small, peaked island, with several rocks to the north-
ward, bearing S.S.E. ^ E. from Api Peak, and S. by W. from Banta Peak.
The Middle Rocks lie W.N.W. | W. from Setan, S.S.W. \ W. from the east-
ern extremity of Banta, and S.E. ^ E. from the Black Rocks, and the latter
bear W.N.W. from Setan. The Low Rocks, nearly level with the water's
edge, lie about 3 miles S.W. from the South point of Banta, and 3 milea
N. i W. from Setan. When Banta Peak bore N.E. I N., and Setan S.E.
by E. \ E., the Boreas had the Low Rocks bearing N.E. by E., visible from
the shrouds.

As the Low Rocks are nearlyeven with the water's edge, the track be-
tween them and Setan is not so safe as that between the latter and Keppeh.
In this passage keep near Todo Island, rounding its N.E. point about the
distance of a mile, for some ships have been in danger of being drifted on
the rocks near Setan by the rapid tides.

Although the tides set rapidly through the middle of the strait, the flood
to the northward, and the ebb to the southward, they become much weaker
within the edge of the bank of soundings, near the north-eastern part of
Sumbawa, where there is very little tide in the bays. The rise of tide in
Sapi Bay is 10 ft. ; in Britannia Bay 11 or 12 ft. ; and it is high water about
1 o'clock at full and change of the moon.

The winds are variable in Sapi Strait, forming a kind of land and sea-
breeze, those from the westward prevailing in the western monsoon ; and
during the opposite season, strong breezes blow into the strait from the
sou.liward a great part of the day.

SAri STRAIT. 767

The eastern branch of the strait, between Gili Banta and Comodo, is seldom
used, there being no soundings ; the passage, however, between Banta and
•Peak Island is safe, and the latter is very steep-to ; it bears E.S.E. from the
South Point, and S. f E. from the East point of Banta. Several rocks lie
between Peak Island and Comodo, and it seems that there is no safe chan-
nel inside.

Opposite to, or about East from Kamara Island, a small island lies close
to Comodo. It is said that the passage inside of it is safe, and that there is
good anchorage in the bays to the southward of it, a cable's length oflf
shore. .

No other dangers are known in the southern part of the strait, except a
shoal to the southward of Fulo Kamara, in its S.W. part, rather in the bight
•which this island forms with Sumbawa, having only 6 ft. water on it.

Chimney or Schoorsteen Island. — Contiguous to the S.W. point of Comodo
stands a high and bold island, with a nob or upright rock resembling a chim-
ney on its declivity, which renders this island a good mark to reconnoitre the
strait in coming from the south-eastward. The West point of this island
bears S. by E. from Banta Peak, and is in 8° 46' S. and 119° 22' E. A rock
lies about a mile southward of the chimney, and another near the South
point ol Komodo, 3 miles to the eastward.

Ships steering for Sapi Strait, with light variable or easterly winds, may
fall in with the West end of Sandalwood. This island is of middling height
and may be seen in clear weather 9 or 10 leagues, and the peak near its
West end about 20 leagues. The West point of Sandalwood lies in 9*^ 42'
S. and 119° E. With westerly winds, which blow strongly, and produce
easterly currents, the South coast of Sumbawa may be approached, as it is
mostly high, except opposite to the bottom of the Gulf of Salee, near the
middle, where there is a low point, covered with trees. Remark also the
shoal water stated to exist by Capt. Villoch.

Entering the strait, bring the East point of Kamara to the westward of
North, on account of the Ida Shoal, and steer for the passage between Setan
and Todo, rounding the N.E. point of the latter island at about a mile dis-
tance, to avoid the rocks to the north-westward of Setan, and in order to be
the sooner in soundings ; the currents not being so strong there, an anchor-
age may be obtained when the tide is contrary. If during the western mon-
soon the route through Salayer Strait is to be pursued, borrow towards the
East side of Api, and keep well to windward, because by the strong easterly
current, sometimes of 32 miles in 24 hours, ships are thrown to leeward of
the islands fronting the South end of Salayer, and obliged to pass them to
the southward.

In going from Salayer Strait towards the Strait of Sapi, during the south-
eastern monsoon, endeavour to fall in with the North point of Comodo, and
pass through the eastern channel on the Banta Island side, if not in want

768 SAPI STRAIT.

of water ; but in all other cases the western channel seems preferable Two
islets lie in the eastern half of the channel.

The SOUTHERN COAST of Sumhawa is very little known, and the repre-
sentations we have of it are derived from the ancient charts. In 1864 Don
J. Frederico Villoch sailed along its southern side, and has given the follow-
ing general observations on it. The mountainous coast of Sumbawa, as seen
from different points, varies greatly ; generally it appears rocky and covered
with bushes. At 1^ mile from its S.W. extreme is a small islet, about
three ships' lengths in extent, and near to it to S.W. is one still smaller,
and the first point which projects toward them to S.E. is low, even, and
terminates in a perpendicular point. The coast from this trends E.N. E. 14
miles, and then S.W. about half that distance, then South for another 4 or

6 leagues, the land being lofty and mountainous, but sloping down to the
sea in an extremely low point. From this it runs East and West for 30
miles, when two conspicuous points project to southward, the bluff land
between them being remarkable.

At the last of these points a sandbank terminates. It commences at 6 or

7 miles to the West of it, and reaches 10 or 11 miles to the South. Its
colour is so marked that it may be compared exactly with the Great Bahama
Bank. This is a good point for correcting the reckoning, a difficult matter,
on account of the strength of the current, as well as from the frequency of
fogs. Its edge is well defined, the colour of the sea changing very suddenly,
as if its edges were perpendicular. Beyond this bank to the eastward the
coast is lofty and perpendicular, appearing to be quite clean and safe.

COMODO ISLAND, on the East side of Sapi Strait, is but little known.
According to the chart of Lieut. W. C. Baars, 1837-8, it is about 25 miles
long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and about 8 miles broad, being separated from
Floris by the intricate strait of Mangarei. It is high and steep, of volcanic
formation, and said to be part of the principality of Bima in Sumbawa.

The North coast of Comodo and the N.W. coast of Floris were first ex-
plored in 1843 by Kapt. -Lieutenant Coertsen's squadron. The North coast
of Comodo forms a large bay; when entering it their first soundings were iu
35 fathoms, with the North extremity of Api Island N.W. by W. ^ W.
and the N.W. point of Comodo W. by S. They steered along shore at the
distance of about a mile, and sounded in 32, 35, 30, 28, and 25 fathoms,
opposite to a bight where the ships anchored.

The steamer Secia came to in 18 fathoms, hard bottom, with 11 fathoms
a cable's length closer in shore, the N.W. point of the bay bearing N.W. by
N., the North extremity of two islands contiguous to the N.E. point of
Comodo N.E. f E., and a small islet N.E. i N.

It was easy to land, the coast having a slow ascent ; and fruit trees were
in abundance, particularly tamirind and palm trees. The land abounded
with deer.

ilANGAEAI «TliAlT— FLORIS. 76y

The next day they passed between two islands off the N.E. point of Co-
modo ; rocks above water being seen in the channel nearest to the southern
island, they borrowed toward the northern islet.

MANGARAI or Mangerye Strait. — The Eeda experienced strong south-
erly winds at the entrance of the Strait of Mangarai, but the current was so
strong that she was drawn in, at the rate of 11 miles an hour! about S. ^W.;
the other vessels, at sonae distance to the northward, having a light northerly
sea breeze. The Strait of Mangarai showed a continued chain of reefs,
sandbanks, and islands, with three high peaks, and with apparent channels
between them. At 9 a.m. the S.E. extremity of the strait, formed by a
high and bold rock, was seen bearing S. by E. ^ E. ; at the same time the
S.E. point of Comodo, a bold rocky point in the shape of a woman's breast,
bore S. S. W. f W. The course was then altered to North, but the current,
which caused violent ripplings and deep whirlpools, was so strong at the
time, that the vessel, working with full power, hardly advanced, and could
not be kept on its course, veering 4 or 5 points to and fro. After a fruitless
search for a passage between the N.E. point of Comodo and the adjacent
island (the several islands at the entrance of the strait having been examined
by the other ships), they altogether returned through the same channel
whieh they had passed in the morning.

The Resource, Captain W. Bligh, went through the strait bound to the
northward August, 1789 ; this, however, appears to be the single case of a
ship attempting this most dangerous and intricate passage.

FLOmS, or Ende, or Mangarai, is about 200 miles long from West to
East, and from 40 to 50 miles broad, wi<;h an area of 4,040 square miles.
Its name is perhaps more properly Flores, as given to it by the early Portu-
guese. It has not been surveyed, but it consists of a chain of volcanic hills
and mountains, in continuation of the great band passing through Java and
Sumbawa. Two of its peaks are active volcanoes, one of them about 7,000
feet high. The people, an inoffensive race, have frizzled hair, and appear
to be an intermediate race between the Malays and Papuas, but distinct from
either. Cotton and sepan wood are its chief products, but it has little
trade. At Potta, on the North coast, the Dutch have (or had) a fort and
small post for the suppression of piracy, and there was a Portuguese settle-
ment at Larantuka, near the S.E. end.

The ensuing directions are chiefly those drawn up by the Dutch ofRcer,
Lieut. Smits.

Badiak Cove, on the N.W. coast of Eloris, is quite sheltered by a chain
of islands. It is situated in 8"^ 28' S. and 119° 48' E. Enter by the passage
to the southward of all the islands, and anchor in 13 fathoms, the S.E. point
of the bay bearing S. by E. ^ E., a point of Eloris N. by E. ^ E., the N.E.
point of Kanassir N. \ E,, Badiak between "W.N.W. and W.S.W., and the
i. X. 5 i' .

770 FLORIS ISLAND.

watering place E. by 8. This cove is a perfect hiding-place for pirates,
several narrow channels between the islets affording them an easy escape in
case of a surprise, and the hills in the vicinity an extensive view to seaward.
A run of very clear water, from the foot of a cataract, led into a small inlet
about 50 paces long, where sampangs can enter to fill the water-casks. The
cove will be easily found by keeping the northernmost of the islands conti-
guous to the N.E. point of Gomodo W. by N.

There are four islands close to Cape Kandisang, the N.W. point of Floris.
Between this point and the next island the channel is only half a mile in
breadth, which is reduced by the reefs on either shore to 2 cables' lengths ;
and the high land, producing squalls and variable winds, renders it a
perilous passage. It leads, however, into a spacious bay, near the N.E.
point of which lies Bodo Island, in 8° 19' 30" S., and 119° 59' E.

Seraya Island, 2 miles in diameter, lies 3 miles N.W. of Cape Kandisang.
Two and a half miles North of its North point is a sunken rock. Sunken
rocks also lie 2 miles N.E. by E. of Cape Kandisang, 2 miles S.W. of Bodo
Island, and Vesuvius Rock, with 2 fathoms water over it, 3 miles North of
Bodo Island.

The bays of Terang and Barrie are separated from each other by a point of
land to which Longso Island is joined by a reef. The small islet Koico, which
has an extensive reef, nearly closes the entrance of the Bay of Terang,
leaving only two narrow channels between the reefs of Longso and Koko,
and between the latter and the reef which stretches along the N.W. point
of the bay. Farther inside there are some other shoals with soundings of
9 fathoms between them. All the reefs are steep-to, and mostly dry at low
water.

The anchorage in Barrie Bay is in 12 fathoms N.W. or W.N.W. from the
village, but deeper in the bay ships lie better sheltered and more conve-
niently for watering. In 1847 a colony of about 200 Bimanese was settled
here, in order to keep away the pirates from this sheltering place.

The Bay of Reo, so called after the village which stands on the S.E. shore
in 8° 15' S., and 120° 32' E., is bounded to the westward by a high and bold
point called Bessie, and to the eastward by Kediending Point ; reefs run off
both points about half a mile, and there is a dry sandbank opposite to the
mouth of Yzer River. The bottom is very steep, and the anchorage in from
30 to 7 fathoms, close in shore. The Yzer Eiver is navigable for proas far
upwards, and the stream carries down a considerable quantity of iron ore
and also some gold dust.

POTTA.-The road of Potta, in 8° 17' S. and 120° 45' E., is bounded
to the westward by Cape Baya, a bold point bearing due East from Bessie
Point. The shore is here so steep-to that in some parts no bottom is felt
with 50 fathoms at 2 cables' lengths outside the reef which lines the beach.
The anchorage is in 18 fathoms. Cape Baya, bearing N.W. by AV. £ W.,

FLOlilS HEAD. 771

Potta Village N. by E. f E., Passier Point (the East limit of the bay)
N.E. i N.

The Dutch bark Diederika, Captain J. J. Kingdom, in 1847, at 6 p.m.,
saw breakers bearing S. j E., distant half a mile, in lat. 8° 21' S., and long.
121° 13' 30" E., about 4 miles off the shore.

A small sandbank, bearing S.E. about 8 miles, observed lat. 8° 22' 40" S.,
when this danger was South, distant 1 mile, Paloweh Island bore E.N.E.
This sandbank lies about 6 miles off shore, and is surrounded by rocks.

Paloweh is a high island and bold to approach ; the peak is situated in
8° 19' S. and 121° 42' E. The channel between it and Floris is safe, and
about 6 miles wide. The coast of Floris to the southward may be known at
a great distance, as it consists of high white rock.

Liuguette or Sukur Island has a high, sharp peak near the East point, and
a hill on its S.W. declivity ; the summit of the peak lies in 8° 6' S. and 122"
8' E. There is no anchorage near this island, and the reefs projecting from
the N.W., 8.W., and S.E. points are of little extent ; there is a rock above
water with a single tree on it on the reef off the S.E. point. Fura Hock lies
4 miles South of Liuguette.

The Doffer Islands, two in number, are joined by a reef ; they appear at
a distance as three islands, the middle part of the westernmost island being
low. From the West point of West Doffer, Linguette Peak bears N. W. by N.
nearly. There are sunken rocks lying to a distance of 5 miles West from
Doffer Island.

The Bastaard Islands are high, particularly the Great Bastaard. The
mountain on the South part may be known by two ravines. Close to the
eastward of it lie six small islets, and to the north-eastward of the eastern-
most of these, the East Bastaard. The coast of Floris to the southward and
eastward of this group forms several deep bays, and one of its low points
approaches close to the islets to the eastward of the Great Bastaard ; the
channel between these islands and the point is nearly a mile wide, and the
two easternmost islets are joined to each other by a reef. The coast forms
several deep bays, and has the appearance of a wall in decay. Nowhere was
anchorage found among these islands ; it would therefore be dangerous to
cruise among them in a sailing vessel. Macassar proas frequent these places,
as there is much tripang there, but they are often annoyed by the pirates.
Sunken rocks lie a mile South of the S.W. end of the Great Bastaard, and
also 2 miles South of the S.E. end; there is also a sunken rock off the West
end of the East Bastaard.

Giliting lies at ihe head of the bay, S.W. of Bastaard Islands ; two sun-
ken rocks lie near the shore, and Reteh Bank, of 2 fathoms, 4 miles W. by N.
of the town.

FLORIS HEAD, or the Iron Cape— The N.E. extremity of Floris is a

772 FLOKIS ISLAND.

hijih and steep promontory of considerable extent, called Floris Head,
situated in 8° 4' 45" S., and 122° 53' E.

The Angelica Eeef is stated to lie about 30 miles N.W. by W. from
Floris Head ; but this position is uncertain. According to Lieutenant Hooft,
May, 1844, with the reef bearing E. by N. to N.W., the peak of Linguette
bore S.S.W. -i W., Poloweh Peak S.W. ^ W., Floris Head S.E. by E. f E.,
lat. observed 7° 48' 39" S., and had no poundings in 80 fathoms. The reef
seemed to extend E,S.E. about 3 miles, and appeared to be about half a
mile broad near its extremities, which are nearly even with the water, but
only 2 cables' lengths near the centre.

The JIaai run aground during the night, near the S.E. point of this shoaL
When aground she had 6 ft. near the bow, 2 fathoms at the rudder, and
40 fathoms on the edge of the shoal about two ships' lengths to the north-
north-eastward ; Floris Head bore S.E. by E. JE., Ilimandri Peak S.E. ^ E.,
Lobetobie Peak S.S.E. | E., Linguette Peak S.S.W. f W., Paloweh (in-
distinctly seen) S.W. i W., and Toea N.W. by W. ; lat. observed, 7° 4S'
30" S.

The reef appeared to extend about 4 miles, and is divided by two nar-
row channels, which traverse it in a North and South direction, with some
dry rocks on the centre.

Pasier Leiyeran or Angelica Shoal is now marked on the charts as 4 miles
in diameter, its centre being in lat. 7° 46' S., long. 122° 18' E.

Bangalore Reef, on which the ship BavgaJore, from Amboina, bound to Alias
Strait, was wrecked in 1802, is said to extend North and South about 3 miles,
with rocks resembling proas under sail. It is very probable that the ship
was lost on the West part of Angelica Shoal.

The ISLANDS between Floris and the southern part of Celebes and Sa-
layer are but little known. They were great resorts of pirates, but since
1843 they have been almost cleared out, and they were partially examined
by Lieutenant Uhlenbeck, in H.N.M. steamer Hehla, in 1843,

The easternmost islands of this group and of the Tyger Islands are Kohona
or Post Horse (Postpaard), in 7° 25' S., and 122° 3' E., with a reef projecting
about 1^ mile from its East point, and Kalia, Pereh, or Baars Island, in 6°
66' S., and 122° 15' E.

Madu, or Pandiang Island, in 7° 28' S., is separated from Kalatoa Island
by a channel of 3 miles in breadth. Eeefs, with much discoloured water
and steep-to, run off the points on the West coast of both these islands ;
the channel between them is free from dangers.

Kalatoa Island is about 6 miles in diameter, with high land at its South
end. To the eastward of this high land, and off the S.E. end of the island,
is Cornelia Road, in V 24' S., long. 12P 44' E. The anchorage is in sand
and coral, in 24 fathoms water, 2 cables off shore.

There are several islands and dangers to the north-westward of Kalatoa,

PYAMPEA— MAMALAK ISLAND. 77$

which are paid to extend almost to the islands Latonda and Salayer, and far
to the northward, although it appears that there is a passage along the coast
of Salayer.

The reefs which line the "West coast of Bonerato project in some parts of
the bay about 4 cables' lengths from the shore.

The 8trait between Bonerato and Kalao is safe. Kalao is a moun-
tainous island, most elevated at each end ; a reef, which is partly dry, and
ranging from 12 fathoms, runs off the West point in a W.S.W. direction
about 5 miles.

The Jfartanne Shoal, in 7° 27' S., and 121° 13' E., extends about 5 or 8
miles East and West, and -3 or 4 miles North and South, having rocks above
water on the southern part. From the wreck of the JJarianne, in 1820, Ka-
lao and Bonerato bore from N. to N.W. by W. i W., and Madoe E. by N.

About midway between this reef and Madoe lie two small islets, called
Knjoe or Kayu, which are surrounded by a reef,

Dyampea, or Tjampeah, is the largest island of this group ; it has a rug-
ged appearance, and terminates to the eastward in a low point. There is
an extensive reef on the North side of this island, with overfalls from 30 to
5 fathoms. Kamharraghie Bay, on the South coast of Djampea, formed by
a projecting point of the land and by several islets which iront the South
coast, and inside of which there are passages for proas, was much frequented
by the pirates. The bay is environed by picturesque mountains, covered
with canary and other kind of high trees, and it is considered safe in both
monsoons.

Maringi Bay is 6 miles farther to the eastward, at the eastern foot of the
peak of Djampea. At from 12 to 18 miles northward of Bonerato is a group
of three islands, Latonda, Little Latonda, and Kampa, surrounded by a reef.
Between them and the East point of Tjampeh, which is 17 miles West from
Latonda, a reef is shown on the chart.

To the westward of the East end of Dyampea are three small islands,
Badjnk, Batu, and Kamarie ; and at 14 miles North of the same point is Ka-
joeicaddie, which has a peak on its West point. Sisir, a low island, lies 4
miles N.W. from the N.W. end of Dyampea ; it is surrounded by a reef,
but leaves a clear channel between. At 5 miles to the West of it a reef is
reported, and at 7 miles W.S.W. is a 2-fathom rock. Vesuvius Bock lies in
lat. 7° 8' 30" S., long. 120° 23' 30' E., 11^ miles S.W. by S. of Sisir, and 36
miles S. -, E. of it is a doubtful patch.

Mamalak Island, or MamalaMi, in 6° 40' S. and 120° 13'E., is the western-
most island of this group ; it is surrounded by a reef, and the channel be-
tween it and Roessa and Tambelaoeang is dangerous.

The channel between Mamalak and the Postilion is 19 or 20 leagues wide,
without dangers, and is the usual track of ships from Sapi Strait bound to
the Strait of Salayer or Makassar.

774 FLORIS ISLAND.

During the eastern monsoon ships will experience here a daily set of the
current to the westward, from 16 to 30 miles, and during the western mon-
soon it runs with rather greater velocity to the eastward. Ships working
towards Makassar during the eastern monsoon should bring Api Island to
bear S.S.W. or S. W. by 8. before they cross over ; and during the western
monsoon it is often very difficult to weather the strait of Salayer after hav-
ing passed through Sapi Strait, on account of which the passage through
the Strait of Alias is now generally preferred.

The route along the coast of Floris and to the northward of Paloweh and
Linguette is generally adopted by ships bound from Sapi Strait to Pitts
Passage, and also by ships bound to Amboina late in the monsoon, in March
or April, or returning from there in June, July, and August. It is prudent
not to stretch over far to the northward on account of the islands and dan-
gers before mentioned, and of some others which are doubtful.

SOUTH COAST of FLORIS.— As the trade on the South coast of Floris is
carried on exclusively by proas, and the trade with Sandelhout Island being
of little importance, the strait between these islands is seldom frequented,
unless by ships navigating between Singapore, or Java and Timor, or
Australia.

The Strait of Mangarai, or Mangara, before described, lies between Co-
mod o and Rindia, an uninhabited island, which abounds with wild buffaloes
and horses.

There is a deep bay in the South coast of this island, but full of reefs.

Molo Strait separates Eindia from Floris ; its entrance may be easily
known by a high island in 8° 46' S. and 1 19° 44' E. Alligator Bay is formed
by a neck of land projecting to the southward. The S.W. point of this bay
is low and green, and the S.E. point may be known by a perpendicular
black clilf, to the south-eastward of which there is a low point, with a
remarkable hole in a rock, appearing from the seaside like a sail. The bay
is 2|- cables' lengths broad, by half a mile in length, and a considerable
stream or river falls into the sea in its N.E. part, where there is a steep
bank, extending about a cable's length from the river's mouth ; the beach
is steep-to in every part of the bay, and no other dangers exist. Although
the tides were nearly imperceptible, the rise of the water was observed 12 ft.
at the springs.

The South point of Mangrove Bay may be known by a brown spot near its
extremity, and the North point has a green appearance. Then follows to
the northward a bold, rocky, and wooded point, and the next point is high
and overhanging.

Cape Som, the S.W. point of Floris, appears at a distance as an island,
and is situated in 4° 49' S. and 119"^ .35' E. The land falls back] north-
eastward and forms a bay, near the East point of which lies Toren (tower)
Island, easily kuuwn ut a great distance by a sugurloaf peak staudiug near

EXDE BAY— SUXTBA OR SANDALWOOD ISLAND. 77.5

its western extreme in 8° 62' 30" S. and 120° U' E. Nanga Ramo Bay, in
which is anchorage, sheltered from the eastward, lies 13 miles E.N.E. of
Tower Island. The coast then forms a more extensive bay, terminating in
the southernmost point of Floris, on which stands the sharp peak of Bokka,
in 8° 54' S. and 120° 59' E., which has been seen at the distance of 31
leagues ; and in 8* 50' S. and 121° 12' E. stands the high volcano of Eomha
Peak, southward of which is Keo Bay. The land hereabout is imperfectly
known ; it appears to be fruitful and well peopled, but the inhabitants are
said to be uncivilized and savage. Along the shore a great surf was observed
by the steamer Hecla, and she ran into discoloured water when in chase of
some proas, Eomba Peak bearing N.E., and the extremities of the land
E. I S. and W. by N., half a mile off shore.

ENDE BAY is formed by the high isthmus of Api Head, on which is an
active volcano, and bounded to the westward by a bold point, in long.
\'2V 20' E. Ende Island, opposite to the centre of the bay, has the shape of a
gunner's quoin, with the highest part turned towards the South ; and appears
at a distance as a projecting point of the land.

The coasts here are steep-to on all sides ; near the southern beach of the
bight of Amhogaga the first soundings in 36 and 26 fathoms are within 2
cables' lengths off shore. Water is scarce, as well in the village as in the
river of Braai. Proas find shelter from westerly winds on the N.E. side of
Ende, where good anchorage is found opposite to the ruins of a Portuguese
fort, and water may be had there.

The bay to the eastward of Api Head has not been visited, but it is sup-
posed to be safe during the western monsoon. From hence the coast stretches
about E. by N., with many remarkable mountains inland, among which the
principal are a high volcano, in 8° 49' S. and 121° 52' E. ; a lofty peak near
the shore, which may be distinguished at a great distance in coming from
the westward, in 8° 48' S. and 122° 5' E. ; a mountain with a flat top, in
8° 44' S. and 122° 25' E. ; and Lobetohie, the northern head peak of which
forms a sugar-loaf, in 8° 32' S. and 122' 47' E.

SUMBA or SANDALWOOD ISLAND, the Tanna Tyumha of the Malays,
has not been surveyed. It is estimated to have an area of 3,800 square
miles, and its people are of the Malayan race, but a distinct nation. The
land is mountainous, and like the neighbouring countries is perhaps volcanic.
But little is known of it, and there is no trade to boast of.

The North-East coast, about 90 miles in extent, offers a very monotonous
view, showing a calcareous wall with a nearly level top about 1,200 ft. high,
and from 2 to 6 miles inland, covered with long grass. At Palmedo, Sassa,
and Tapi Points the land has a more regular aspect, and the hills about
Roeloe are rather elevated parts of the wall, but those near Nangamessie and
Palmedo are peaked. The East part of Sandalwood appears to be a plain

776 SUMBA OR SANDALWOOD ISLAND.

covered with grass and bushes, and gradually sloping down towards the low
points Tapi and Mandieli.

From Tapi Point to Mandieli the coast is covered by a reef projecting
about 4 miles, with an island upon it formed by some flat rocks about 25 ft,
above water, called Mano.

Nangamessie Harhour, in the bay between Atta and Mandolo Points, is
formed by reefs projecting from the shore, which are steep-to and mostly
dry, and by a detached reef, with only 1 and 2 fathoms water over it, on
the East side of the entrance, which is separated by a narrow but deep
channel from the rocks of the shore. The space between the reefs is 1 or 2
cables' lengths.

Mandolo Point and Cape Roeboe are bold, and Cape Sassa rises nearly per-
pendicularly to a height of 250 ft. on its North and West sides.

The entrance of Fahnedo Eiver hears S.W. by W. I W., about 12 miles
from Cape Sassa ; boats drawing from 5 to 7 It. can enter at high water.
The road may be known by the Kron Berg, which is the highest point of the
back land, and the top of which is wooded and peaked ; and further to the
westward another woody peak of about the same height will be seen.

The N.E. Coast of Sandalwood may be approached within 1 or 2 miles,
with the exception of the East point of the island. Erom seaward no
villages are visible except Lenna, near Palmedo, and Taimano, near Nanga-
messie.

There is a high peak in the West part of Sandalwood, which may be seen
about 20 leagues, and most part of the South coast is seen at the distance of
9 or 10 leagues. The West point of the island, called Reef Point, on account
of a great reef projecting from it, is in about 9° 40' S. and 118° 59' E., bear-
ing S. by W. ^ W. from the southern entrance of Sapi Strait.

Cape Blackwood, the South point of Sandalwood, is in 10"^ 20' S. and
120° 29' E., and as high and inaccessible as the rock of Gibraltar, with a
low connecting land-tongue, on either side of which lies a spacious bay.
The West one seems to be well shelteied by the islands fronting the point,
but there are no soundings 3 or 4 miles off shore.

There is a safe harbour sheltered by reefs from all winds on the South
coast, in long. 119° 28', near the populous village Tida. There is also safe
anchorage near Treba, and in the spacious bay of Wedielo, near the South end
of this island.

Fly Islands are two small islands lying at 14 and 20 miles westward of Cape
Blackwood ; the eastern one is high and rugged, with a small islet off its
western end ; and the western one low, with a sunken rock West of it.

Niagara Breakers viere seen by Captain Fray in 18G9, in lat. 10° 44' S.,
long. 120° 5' E., with the largest of the Fly Islands bearing N.E. by N., and
Cape Blackwood N.E. i E.

A lO-/athom patch was diecovered in 1869 by the S.S. Corona, at about 150

STRAITS BETWEEN FLORIS AND OMBAY. 777

milos southward of Sandalwood Island, inlat. 12° 26' S., long. 118° 40' 30'' E.

Savu Islands. — The channel between Sandalwood and Savu is about 15
leagues wide, and has no other dangers than the reef which projects far
from the East point of the former island.

Savu, or Rai Haicu, may be seen at 8 or 9 leagues distance ; it has a sandy
and barren aspect, and Banjoan is low and wooded.

H.M.S. Serpent coasted along the South shores of these islands to verify
their positions, and found them fairly correct. They are bold, except that
from the East point of Rai Diuwa or Benjoan, an extensive reef was seen
on which the sea was breaking heavily. (1869).

Hockie or Dana (New Island) is of coral, low, and covered with scrub,
having a ridge along its north-eastern side of about 120 ft. elevation, the
western part of which is a detached knoll like a short horn. This latter is
in lat. 10° 49' S , 121° 16' E. Under this ridge, and facing the N.E., is a
broad sand beach, which is the only practicable landing-place in fine weather.
Off the northern part of this beach is the anchorage in 12 fathoms, sand,
with the knoll bearing S.W., and the East point S.S.E. Wild goats abound
on the island, but no fresh water could be discovered.

Ships late in the monsoon bound to China, and passing St. Paul and
Amsterdam Islands in the latter end of September, October, November, or
December, generally proceed through the Ombay Passage. They ought to
make the East point of Sandalwood, and to pass between it and Savu, or
between the latter and Rotti, if they fall to leeward with N.W. or westerly
winds. In former times it was usual to steer for the West end of Sandal-
wood, and to pass between it and Floris ; but the route to the eastward of
Sandalwood is preferable, particularly with variable winds, nor can it be
required to pass to the westward of Sandalwood unless the wind blows strong
from the north-westward with a lee current, when it may be desirable to pass
to windward.

STRAITS between Floris and Ombay. — The several straits between Floria
and Ombay Islands are narrow, and subject to strong currents and frequent
calms, succeeded by heavy squalls from those high mountainous islands, and
are therefore but seldom used.

The straits of Floris, Solor, and Lamakwera or Zemandro, are often used
by the Dutch vessels of war bound to Timor, and it seems that formerly the
Strait of Boiling, or the Dutch Gut, between Lombatta and Adenara, was
much frequented. The straits of Alloo and Pantar are very intricate, very
deep and embarrassed with strong currents.

In March, 1868, from twenty to thirty vessels had been over three weeks
endeavouring to get through Ombay Passage — with the usual luck of losing
by day what was gained at night. At length the masters of the Lord
Maeauley (drawing 20 ft.), and the Westminster (drawing 22 ft.), resolved to

I. A. 5 Q

77S

STRAITS BETWEEN FLORIS AND OMBAY.

turn back and try what could be done at Zemandro Strait ; after two days
they reached the entrance. At noon, Sangi Island bore East of them, and
with the strong current and the assistance of a 4-knot breeze they were clear
through, and past the dangers at the northern end of the strait in 2^ hours.
The Gossamer on this occasion passed through AUor Strait.

The STRAIT of FLORIS, between the East coast of that island and the
West coasts of Solor and Adenara, stretches N.N. E. and S.S.W., about 12
leagues. The southern part of the strait, along the coast of Solor, is gene-
rally called Lohetobie Strait, and the northern part the Gut of Larantuka. The
narrowness of these straits and their strong currents make it unadvisable to
resort to them unless in case of necessity.

If intending to pass through the Strait of Floris during the western mon-
soon, after passing Sandalwood haul in for the coast of Floris, and approach
it pretty closely. In coasting to the eastward, Ifigh or Hoog, a high round
island in the mouth of the strait, must be passed on the West side. The
island is in about 8° 40' S., and 122° 51' E., and is steep-to, having no
ground near it at 90 or 95 fathoms. There is a ledge of rocks a little to the
eastward of it, part of which is visible above water, and other islands and
rocks front the South part of Solor. At a small distance inside High Island
two other rocky islets form the passage, which are seen when the strait is
open; they bear W.S.W. and E.N.E, from each other, distant half a mile
or more, having soundings of 40 and 30 fathoms mid-channel, but the com-
mon passage is on the East side of these two islets.

The S.E, point of Floris, at the foot of the high peak or volcano of Lohetobie^
is of a green aspect, resembling a gunner's quoin, from which a reef pro-
jects with 9 fathoms near its edge. The peak of llimandri bears N.N.E. of
the point.

At Larantuka, a village, where the Portuguese have a settlement, good
water and refreshments for two or three vessels may be had. The anchorage
in the Bay of Larantuka, about I or 1^ cable's length off shore, is considered
more safe than nearer Adenara, but the bottom is the same.

The narrows of Floris Strait are about 3 cables' lengths wide, with sound-
ings in 16 fathoms, mid-channel, 12 and 11 fathoms nearer to Adenara, 14
and 15 fathoms on the Floris side of the strait, and deepening suddenly to
19 fathoms, no bottom when to the northward of the narrows.

The flood sets to the northward and the ebb South. The tides change
regularly every six hours. H.N.M. frigate Triton, December, 1838, ob-
served the ebb to run 2 or 2^ knots, but the flood 5, the latter to set in very
irregularly, with violent ripplings, which make it dangerous to anchor in
the entrance of the strait. It was high water at 12 o'clock two days before
full moon.

Ships from the southward, when leaving the narrows, should haul in for
Adenara, because the tide, setting strong round the point of Floris, will bo

KOMBA Ii>LAND— SOLOR STEAIT. 779

liable to drift them on the reef which projects from this point, or to horse
them into the Bight of Floris outside the point, which is shoal all over.

Ships coming from the nortliward may anchor ofl the village of Adenara,
either to get out the boats and take every precaution requisite before tliey
proceed into the strait, or to procure refreshments. When Serbette bears
N.W. by W., and Komba N.E. ^ E., Adenara village bears S.E. by S.

Serbette Island, situated in the northern entrance of the strait, is S" 8'
30" S. and 123^ 1' E., bearing S.E. by E. i E. from Floris Head, and N. by
E. ^ E. from Ilimandri Peak, is a low island, uninhabited, and visible from
the deck about 8 or 10 miles. It is surrounded by an extensive reef, partly
dry, from the eastern extremity of which Ilimandri Peak bears S.W. J 'SV.,
and Wokka Peak S.E. I E. The reef extends about the same distance
nearly 2 miles to the westward, and the channel inside between it and Floris
is apparently clear.

KOMBA ISLAND, or Batutara, is high, and stretches North and South
about 3 miles. The peak on the southern part is in 7° 48' S., and 123° 34' E.
It is an active volcano, and was seen during an eruption by Captain the
Hon. H. Keppel, R.N. From the West coast of this island Wokka Peak
bears S.S.W. ^ W., the N.W. peak of Lomblen S. ^ W., and Lobetobie
Peak S.E. ^ E. ; and from its East coast the two tops of the latter mountain
bear S. by E. f E. and S.S.E., and the West peak of Lomblen S. f W. It
is an excellent guide for ships coming from the Banda Sea and bound to the
Strait of Floris, which bears S.W. i W. It may be passed on either side in
steering for the Strait of Floris during the eastern monsoon, because the
currents are strong to the westward.

Jessie Shoal lies 24 or 25 miles N.E. | E. of Pulo Komba. The high land
of Lomblen is visible from it. The rock is level with the top of the water,
but no breakers were seen. It must be the same danger as the Mackie
Shoal, discovered in 1826.

SOLOE STRAIT.— Vessels bound to Timor, after passing through the
Strait of Floris, generally proceed through the Strait of Solor, between the
islands Solor and Adenara ; it stretches about East and West, and is 3 miles
wide. There is no anchorage, except close in-shore, and the Solor side of
the strait is preferable, as the squalls are not so frequent there, Solor being
less elevated than Adenara.

Lawang, on the North side of Solor, has the ruins of a Dutch fort. Good
water may be had on the opposite shore. North of Lawang.

The village oi Lamakwera, near the N.E. end of Solor, is in 8" 26 S. and
123" 9' E. The ebb sets to the northward and the flood to the southward ;
sea-breeze southerly, and land-breeze northerly and light. In approaching
the anchorage, the lead ought to be kept going as the soundings decrease
rapidly towards the village.

There is a reef a little to the westward of Lamakwera, of 21 fathoms, the

780 STRAITS BETWEEN FLORIS AND OMBAY.

North and N.E. points of Solor bearing W. i S. and S.S.E. ^ E. There is
a safe passag'e between the reef and Solor.

BOLENG STRAIT, the " Dutch Gut,'' was much frequented by the Dutch
Company's ships, and, according to their charts, there are soundings all
through it, and anchorage in 20 to 9 and 6 fathoms in the Bay of Lomblen.
The northern entrance of the strait bears about S.S.W. \ W. from Komba
Island. In the centre of this entrance are the Boleng Islets, about 2^ miles
West of the N. W. point of Lomblen, and surrounded by a reef. The N.W.
end of Lomblen is also fringed with a reef, but in mid-channel the depth
appears to be good — no bottom at 50 fathoms. Dutch charts show but an
exceedingly narrow passage between the Boleng Islets and Adenara. The
Lomblen side of the strait appears the safest, and it is said that there is
anchorage in Lomblen Bay in 19 to 9 and 6 fathoms.

LOME ATA or Lomhlen Island. — The S.W. point of Lomblen bears S. by
E. I E. from the N.E. point of Solor. The South and West coasts of this
island are high and bold, volcanic, and of a barren aspect. Soangie Island,
easily known by a hole which opens when it bears N.W. f W., is in 8° 35' S.
and 120° 13' E., and bears S.S.E. from the S.W. point of Lomblen, and
W. f S. from Lamarap Peak ; it has a green aspect, and may be approached
within a short distance.

ALLOR or Maurissa Strait. — In approaching the Strait of Allor, along
the South coast of Pantar, the seaman is struck with the appearance of four
islands, but the easternmost proves to be the high S.W. part of Pantar, the
second the West part of the same island, joined to the body of the island, by
a low land-tongue, though, according to Lieut P. F. Uhlenbeck, D.R.N., it
is detached ; the next is Nuhatan or Bahi Island, which may be called low in
comparison to the surrounding land ; several rocks and reefs project from it,
especially from the South point ; another reef projects a considerable way
from the North point in a N.N.E. direction. The fourth is Nabokam or
Eusa, which has a reddish, rocky, and barren aspect, and is dangerous to S
miles off its S.W. coast. When Little Island is in one with the West part
of Pantar, the opening of the strait will be discerned.

The high S.W. foreland of Pantar has a reef running off in a southerly
direction, on the outer edge of which lies a large rock with heavy breakei'S ;
the passage between Klein Island and Pantar is thought to be very dan-
gerous, and seems never to have been examined. A high rock is joined by
a reef to the westward of Middle Island. The western isthmus of Pantar
and Little Island has nearly the same level aspect ; but the N.W. point of
the isthmus may be known by a group of seven trees on it. The N.W.
coast of Pantar stretches about N.E., forming several bays, and a reef runs
off the North point about 2 miles, with many rocky points visible above
water.

Grrm Island is small, round, and high, consiatiug of reddish rock. It

PANTAR. 781

appears from the eastward like a sand-hill, but when viewed from the
southward it has a green appearance. Flat Island is very low ; its North side
is covered with shrubs, but the southern part is barren. The Pantar perceived
only one low island, but the Hecla saw two, possibly united at low water. A
reef, with several ledges of rocks a little above water, projects about N.E., 4
miles from Green Island. The western edge of this reef runs along the-
West coast of Flat Island, and joins it to Green Island.

The NE. point of Lomblen is fronted by a reef with heavy breakers ; but
a little to the southward of this point the coast is clear as far as the next
projecting point, which is also fronted by high rocks, and near which there
are no soundings.

A 1\-fathom patch lies in the middle of the narrow pait of the strait, be-
tween the N.E. point of Lomblen and the West point of Pantar.

The Currents in this strait are most violent at times, and render a ship
quite ungovernable, should it fall calm, as is frequently the case. Added to
these evils, the depth is usually unfathomable, and affords no anchorage.
The Dutch sloop of war Pantar was thus drifted to and fro for several hours
in the greatest peril, in June, 1839, and only saved by a southerly breeze
springing up at midnight. These considerations should weigh with a com-
mander before he ventures to take this strait.

The strait of Allor may be easily known, as well from the North as from
the southward, by the high double peak LohetoUe, near the N.E. point of
Lomblen, in 8° 12' S. and 123= 4o' E., bearing N.N.W. i W. from the
middle channel. Green Island is also a good guide in coming from the
northward ; and Lomblen and Pantar being both very high land, the strait
will be easily discerned.

It is not advisable to attempt this passage, when bound to the southward
during the eastern monsoon, as it would be difficult to get through in one
tide, the winds then generally blowing strong from South to S.S.W.

Great care is requisite when sailing along the entrance of Allor Strait, not
to approach Lomblen within 4 leagues distance, as ships are liable to be
horsed in the strait by the current, as happened with the Dutch frigate Maas,
in 1839. In general, great attention is to be paid to the currents when
passing near any of the eastern straits, as ships have often been carried into
them. The Pantar observed high water between 9 and 10 a.m., two days
before full moon.

PANTAR, Pntar, or Pandai, which forms the eastern side of Allor Strait,
is but little known. Its western side was examined by Lieut. L. J. de Yrieze,
in 1839. The people are rude, half-naked heathens, with dark brown com-
plexions and frizzled hair, and are not to be trusted. It is high and most
probably volcanic.

The STRAIT of PANTAR is formed between the island and the West

782 OMBAY-WETTA.

side of Ombay. The N.W. end of Ombay is high bold land, and the dis-
tance from it to the N.E. point of Pantar is 5 miles ; but in the northern
part of the strait there aie three islands. The northernmost of these, called
Panjang or North Island, in about 8° 8' 40" S. and 124° 17' E., is low, and oa
the middle of it there is a small hummock. Another island, in the form of a
cone, bears S. ^ W. from the former, and the third, called High Island, is
much larger, and terminates in a double peak, nearly as high as the N.W.
end of Ombay or the peak of Pantar ; and the land abreast of it forms a
bay on both sides the strait. There is a deep inlet to the N.E., and a Malay
village near the beach in the back part of this bay. Twerin or 8outh Island,
situated in the southern entrance of the strait, in about 8° 29' S. and
124'' 14' E., is high. The proper channel through is between the islands in
the North part of the strait and the Ombay shore, and out to the southward
on either side of South Island ; but the passage West of the latter is prefer-
able. The narrowest part of the channel is between the N.E. point of High
Island and the North point of the inlet that stretches into Ombay, and is 2
or 3 miles wide.

A high mountain, forming a saddle, stands on the southern part of Pantar ;
its southern peak is in 8° 32' S. and 124° 6' E.

The OMBAY PASSAGE, between Ombay and the North coast of Timor,
is 16 miles wide in the narrowest part. It has apparently deep water
throughout, and there is no danger known, but it has not been surveyed.

The most eligible route for ships late in the season bound to China is by
the Ombay Passage, to proceed to the westward of Buru, then through Pitt
and Dampier Straits, or the Gilolo Passage. After making the East point of
Sandalwood Island, pass between Timor and Ombay, and haul close round
the East point of the latter island to the northward.

OMBAY, Ombai, or Allor, extends nearly E. and W., about 19 leagues ;
it is all high, but most so at the eastern part, and is covered with beautiful
high trees to the summit of the highest ridges of its mountains. The in-
habitants are of the Malay Negro race, with dark complexions and frizzled
hair. Like the Dyaks of Borneo, they are ferocious head-hunters, but con-
tent themselves with the lower jaw. On the coast some of the people profess
Mahomedanism.

It is about 50 miles long from AVest to East, and its West end is deeply
indented by a large bay. It is of volcanic formation, but is not known to
contain any active volcano. The S.E. point is formed by a bluff white rock,
in 8° 21' S. and 125° 14' E. A sunken rock lies near this point; and off
Bilukii, 15 miles to the westward, two sunken rocks lie near the shore.

WETTA is also high and bold, extending E.N.E. and W.S.W. about 19
leagues. Dog (or Honden) Isla^id, off the N.W. point of Wetta, is in T 41' S.
and 126° 1' E. ; and Liban, or Babi, is another high island, separated by a
chaiiucl of about 2 milos broad irom the S.W. end of Wetta. The West

KAMBING. 783

coast of Wetta is faced by reefs^and the channel inside Babi is said to be
unsafe. The mail steamer Normanhy reports (in 1875) having struck on a
reef extending three-quarters of a mile from the South end of Libau Island.
A break was also observed on what was supposed to be a sunken rock, lying
3 miles East of the South point of Libau Island.

The Nautilus Reef, of 1839, N. by E. 3 miles from the North end of Libau
Island, is partly dry, extends S. by "W. and N. by E., about 3 miles, and
a mile broad. The reef consists of sand and small rocks, with some dry
coral patches, and there are soundings of 20 fathoms, 1 or 2 cables' lengths
to the eastward of it, regularly decreasing towards the shoal, over a bottom
of white sand.

The East point of Wetta is in about 7° 4.5' S. and 126° 47' E. ; it is not
advisable to approach this island closer than 4 miles, as H.N.M. schooner
Janus, 1840, saw breakers near the S.E. part, about 2 miles from the shore.

H.N.M. sloop Dourga anchored abreast of the village Sauw, which is near
the middle of the South coast, in 50 fathoms, and found it sheltered from
south-easterly winds, by a projecting point of land.

KAMBING, an island which lies on the N.E. side of the Ombay Passage,
is said to be about 12 miles long. North and South, and, like the rest of
this neighbourhood, has not been surveyed. Its name means " goat island,"
and is applied to it from the number of a small species of deer found on it.
Its surface is hilly, and near to its South end is a peaked mountain, on the
suo-mit of which is a mud volcano. This remarkable feature consists of
twelve hillocks, from which, at regular intervals, is a discharge of gas and
mud, the mud forms the cones, and the saline water trickling down the sides
is a great attraction to the deer.

Kambing Island extends N.N.E. and S.S.W. about 8 miles ; from its
N.W. point the peak of Babi bears N.E. i N. In 1844 Lieutenant Hooft's
squadron approached the West side of this island, within 4 cables' lengths
abreast a village situated in the mountains ; the boats got no bottom at 65
fathoms, about two ships' lengths off shore, and had 9 fathoms rock bottom
almost at the beach. The boats were at first received in a hostile manner,
and the natives rolled large stones from the tops of the hills in order to im-
pede the ascent along a steep path, but afterwards the commanding officer
succeeded in establishing an intercourse with them. They appear to be but
little civilized, and they had no firearms nor ornaments which might reveal
any former intercourse with Europeans. In some parts of the West coast
there are narrow beaches about 150 paces broad, but the land then ascends
like a steep wall ; wherever the ground permits cultivation, palm-trees and
fields of jagon are seen. A sounding of 1,780 fathoms, mud, has been taken
at 5 miles South of the S.E. end of the island.

H.N.M. steamer Ilecia, with the other ships in tow, coasted within a short
distance along the North and East sides of this island, without finding an-

7fl4 TIMOR ISLAND.

chorage. The shore was found to be stee(p-to on all sides, except near the
N.E. point, from •which a reef projects about 2 miles. The North and East
coasts appear to be still more inhospitable than the West coast, and do not
oflFer even a landing-place. No villages are seen there, and no other boata
than very small lippas.

The channel betwixt Kambing and Babi is 5 or 6 miles wide, and that
betwtjen Kambing and Ombay about 5 leagues ; both are subject to strong
currents, and in the northern part of the latter, in lat. 8° 10' S., long. 125°
20' E., a rock has been reported.

KISS A or Kisser Island. — The centre of Kisser Island is in 8° 6' S. and
127° 10' E. The Dutch fort VoUenhoven, on the West side of this island, was
evacuated long since, but is kept in good condition by the Malay inhabi-
tants, who are Christians. Near the edge of the reef there is no bottom with
80 fathoms, and the soundings on it are very irregular, 5 and 10 fathoms,
with overfalls of 30 fathoms.

Roma Island. — The West point of Royna or Teralta bears East about 1 1
leagues from the East point of Wetter, and is in 7° 38' S. and 127° 19' E.
The Dourga anchored in 7 fathoms on a sandbank, which projects half a
mile to the northward of Media Island, which is very small, and bears South
3 leagues from the West point of Koma, and about 3 miles from Kampong
Dieroesoe on Roma. During the north-western monsoon ships many anchor
in the bight to the northward of that village, to leeward of the West point.
It is necessary to moor the ship with a cable on the shore here as well as at
Kisser, to prevent her being driven to sea when the land breeze blows hard.

TIMOR or TIMUR is the largest of this eastern range, being in area
about one-fourth that of Java, or double that of Jamaica. It is about 370
miles long, and 50 in its greatest breadth. It lies in an oblique direction to
the westward chain of islands, and unlike them, is of different geologic for-
mation ; instead of volcanic rocks, it consists of sedimentary clay slates and
madreporic limestone, containing many caverns. But it is subject to frequent
earthquakes, one of which, in 1794, did much damage to Koepang.

It is also very different in climate to the islands West of it ; instead of
the luxuriant vegetation there seen, Timor is covered with a stunted growth
more resembling the northern part of Australia. This fact very much dimi-
nishes its value as a colony. The inhabitants seem to be a race intermediate
between the Malay and Papuan Negro. They resemble in many respects
the Dyaks of Borneo. They are seemmgly divided into three tribes, differing
chiefly in dialects. Their character and that of the climate and soil of Timor,
have made it a comparatively unimportant possession of the European
powers, the Dutch and Portuguese, who have settlements on it.

But it is interesting as a link between Asia and Australia, and it is this
political view which has caused the above-named European powers to retain
poseession of their poets, although, probably, at a considerable annual

SAMAO-KOEPANG. 785

sacrifice. The western part is nominally at least, under the Dutch, whose
chief port, and also the principal place on the island, is Koepang or Kupang,
at its S.W. end. It forms part of the Banda Eesidentie, which extends
hence to the Arru Islands, having the Banda Islands as their chief place.
All the north-eastern portion is or was claimed by the Portuguese, but in
1860, according to the last cessions to the Netherlands, Portugal has now
only the North coast with the Island Kambing. These, however, are far
from profitable, for while, in 1867-8, the receipts of the government were
£27,900, the expenses were £99,000.

The climate of Timor, especially the western portion of it, resembles that
of northern Australia, differing essentially from the healthy climate of the
Moluccas and from the islands to the westward of it. The westerly mon-
soon, which ordinarily sets in in the middle of November, continues till
April, brings heavy rains and overcast weather, which is very detrimental to
European constitutions. While during the easterly monsoon in the rest of
the year, the weather is almost always clear, and the rains moderate, so
that, notwithstanding the great heat, the air is not unhealthy. This great
variation in climate, from extreme humidity to intense dryness, is much
greater in Timor than in the adjacent countries. In eastern Timor, during
the dry season, not a drop of rain falls, and the natives, their cattle, and
the vegetation alike suffer from the intense drought. But it is free from
wind, storms, and cyclones, although thunder and lightning are of daily
occurrence in the wet season.

SAMAO, Semao, or Samauw, a small island 20 miles long and. 7 broad, lies
off the S.W. end of Timor. The eastern side consists of a chain of moun-
tains of moderate height, the rest is a sterile, sandy plain. A remarkable
fig-tree, called by the natives Noemoek, making a small forest of three
thousand stems, is an object of veneration. The native rajah of Timor re-
sides here.

The Strait of Samao, separating the island from Timor is about 3 miles
broad and 15 miles long, affording good anchorage and shelter in the south-
west monsoon, when there is none in the road or anchorage at Koepang,
opposite to it. The strait has soundings of 30 to 60 and 70 fathoms in mid-
channel. Between Bolk, and Tanal Point on the eastern side of the strait,
also at Haiyina Sissi the N.E. point of Semao Island, long and dangerous
spits project from the shore reefs ; they are, however, easily seen when the
sun is in a favourable position.

Point Oijsma, the S.W. end of Timor, is in lat. 10= 20' S., long. 123° 26';
it has a reef extending to the S.W. with heavy breakers, and soundings of
12 to 18 fathoms near its edge.

KOEPANG or KUPANG, on the South side of a deep bay is, as above
said, the chief Dutch settlement. They first took the place from the Portu-
I. A. in

78r, TIMOR ISLAND.

guese in 1613, and erected the Fort Concordia, which remains to this day,
but is in a ruinous condition. It is a port of call for the Netherlands' India*
Steam Navigation Company's boats. An aqueduct carries a good supply of
excellent water to the beach. Coal can generally be obtained at a settlement
on the South side of Koepang Bay ; the price is about £5 the ton (1877).
The flagstaff is in lat. 10° 10' S., long. 123° 34' 30" E.

A red light is shown from a post on a house at Koepang, elevated 40 ft.

Pakoela Point, the North point of the bay, is low, having sunken rocks
extending nearly a mile from it, and may be known by a tree, which stands
separate from the others, and is visible long before the low point can be
discerned. Tihoes is a small, round, wooded isle, situated on the edge of the
reef which lines the North point of the bay, and when the point bears E.S.E.
i E., it is seen just touching the islet. Kera is a low, sandy isle, in the
middle of the entrance of the bay, surrounded by an extensive reef, on either
side of which there are clear channels. When this island bears S.S.E. 1 mile,
and Tikoes E.N.E. 3 or 4 miles, soundings will be got in 60 fathoms, sand
and coral, decreasing to 50 and 38 fathoms about half a mile from Kera ;
come no nearer to it on account of its surrounding reef, which projects much
farther from the "West and S.E. sides. It is partly dry at low water, which
is always discoloured.

Selamo Peak, in 9° 57' S. and 123° 39' E., has a remarkably rugged appear-
ance, and may be seen long before Samao annd Rotti are discerned in coming
from the westward.

The reefs between Tikoes and Boerong, and those which project to the
south-eastward of the latter isle, are partly dry at low tide, and they are
steep-to from 10 or 8 fathoms to 2 or 1 J fathoms. To avoid the first, these
islands ought not to be brought in opposite bearings.

Good water may be easily got to the N.N.W.-ward of Boerong, where
boats can approach close to the beach. There is also a small river near the
village of Selamo, but boats cannot approach unless at high water. Captain
Stokes says that the good water is above the fall, and that water should not
be taken within the tidal influences ; that so taken in the South corner of the
bay is liable to produce dysentery.

Ships may procure here cattle, poultry, and fruits. They ought not to go
nearer in than 16 fathoms, as it shoals rapidly from 9 to 2 fathoms. When
it is blowing weather from N.W., ships are often obliged to leave this
anchorage and to search for shelter near Boerong or under Samao ; but the
latter anchorage is foul, rocky, and steep, and, as the currents set with great
strength through the Strait of Samao, ships are liable to be driven into deep
water if the anchor should drag.

The channel to the southward of the island of Kera is also safe, and the
reefs which surround that island are easily perceived by the colour of the
water ; they project about 1-^ mile to the westward, and the sea generally

ROTTI. 787

breaks heavily on the northern edge. The northern passage is, however,
preferable, there being soundings in it from 40 to 25 fathoms, which will
enable ships to anchor when overtaken by a calm. In the southern passage
the first soundings are got about 3 miles from Koepang.

The tides in the bay are weak. It is high water, at full and change of the
moon, about 1 1 o'clock ; the rise at the springs is 9 ft., and at neap tides
only 4 or 4 J ft. ; the flood comes in from the westward.

ROTTI lies 17 miles South of the S.W. point of Timor. Between them is
the island of Lando, joined to Eotti by shoal water. It is a dependency of
the Dutch Governmet of Koepang, but is governed by several (fifteen it is
said) native princes or rajahs in a feudal manner, which the rugged nature
of the country allows, each seigneur residing isolated in his rocky territory
in the hill fortresses. They are industrious, and are a better looking race
than the people of Timor.

The Strait of Rotti lies between Lando and Timor. Rotti is of middling
height, visible 12 to 14 leagues distance ; it is fronted by several islands,
and has many fine bays and inlets.

With the excption of Beatrice shoal, the strait of Rotti seems to be free
from dangers. In some parts there are soundings in 60 fathoms, decreasing
towards Eotti.

Beatrice Shoal, in lat. 10° 31' 30" S., long. 123° 35' E., was discovered by
Commander John Hutchinson, of H.M. Surveying Vessel Beatrice, and subse-
quently Mr. Waleson, the harbour-master of Koepang, succeeded in finding
on it a knoll with only 5 ft. water, over which the sea almost always breaks.
The shoal is an oval-shaped coral bank, lying E.N.E. and W.S.W., half a
mile in extent. Soundings of 3 to 6 fathoms are found on its central part
(where probably the knoll is), deepening to 8 and 10 at either end, where
there is tolerable anchorage ; outside this the reef falls steeply into deep
water. The centre of the shoal is on the following bearings : — N.E. point
of Oessoe Island (the island East of Landu) W. 5 N., 7^ miles ; the conspi-
cuous double hill over the point, W. i N. ; the high, flat-topped hill of
Eotti, S.W. I W. ; S.W. point of Timor (entrance of Semao Strait), N.W.
f N. ; White Clifi's of Timor, N.E. northerly.

The West coast of Eotti is fronted by some islands between which there is
a passage. These islands are low, the southern ones particularly so. The
exception is a rocky islet with steep cliffs, lying in the channel between
Dana Island and the main, which is conspicuous at 20 miles distance, when
all the neighbouring land, except the hills of Eotti, has dipped. The only
anchorage recommended about the islands is on the North side of Noesa.

Dome is the westernmost island, and is famous for its goldsmiths, the most
expert in the archipelago. Their filagree ornaments are much prized for
their beauty and neatness. Two smaller islands lie adjacent to the N.W.
point of Kotti.

78» NOETK COAST OF TIMOR.

When passing the N.E. point of Oessoe the water was suddenly shoaled
by H.M.S. Serpent to 5 fathoms, the point then bearing N.W., H mile dis-
tant. The shoal was not examined. An unexamined coral bank, on which
the least water obtained whilst crossing it was 15 fathoms, lies 3^ miles
"W.N. W. of Dana, the southernmost of the islands off Eotti. No examina-
tion was made of it.

The islands of Lando and Eotti form two safe roadsteads ; the entrance to
Eango, on the North side of Eotti, is from the eastward, and is difficult to
go out during the eastern monsoon. The entrance to Karhaffo Bay is from
the westward, rounding the reef which projects from the S.W. point of
Lando ; ships lie there quite landlocked.

H.N.M. schooner Circe anchored, in 1846, in the road of Baa, on tho
North coast of Eotti, in 15 fathoms, with Tormana Eocks bearing N.E. \ E.,
the flagstaff S.E. ^ S., and the extreme West point of the land seen between
two islets W. J S., in 10° 44' 42" S., and 123° 1' 40" E.

The English ship Abercromiie, bound to China, after being dismasted to
the southward of Sandalwood, anchored in Boykaai Bay on the South coast of
Eotti, January 1812, in 21 fathoms, soft bottom, 3 cables' lengths off shore,
and procured there water and refreshments. This is perhaps the same bay
which was visited by Captain R. Spratley, of the Cyrus whaler, which i»
formed by the islands La and Mano, fronting the coast, and inside of which
there is safe anchorage in 10° 52' S. and 123° 5' E. It is high water in
Cyrus Harbour, at full and change of the moon, at 12 o'clock, and the tide
rises 5 or 6 ft.

There exist several shoal patches, and probably dangers, off the East side
of Eotti, but they are very imperfectly known. The Satellite Rocks are about
4 miles from the nearest part of the island off the N.E. point of Eotti, a
hummock on the centre of which bore W. j S. and the S.W. point of Timor
N. iE.

The SAHUL BANK is said to be dangerous in some places, but there is
reason to believe that it is not so extensive as laid down in the charts, where
it reaches from 10° 40' to 11° 30' S., commencing near the East point of
Eotti, and stretching to the eastward upwards of 2 degrees.

As the dangers of this bank have never been examined, it should be
avoided, and vessels should not stretch over so far to the southward in sailing
along the South coast of Timor.

The NOETH COAST of TIMOR extends for nearly 40 miles in an irre-
gular N.N.E. direction to Gomok Point, E.S.E. of which is Timu Peak.
Nolloi anchorage lies North of Timu Peak, in lat. 9° 52' S., long. 123° 52' E.
At 15 miles to the N.E. of GomoTs Point is Sutrana or Sotroma Eoad, which
lies off the mouth of a small river S.E. of Jula Island. A sunken rock lies
about a mile westward of the mouth of the river.

Jl'.naiif/o, a bandbank or rock which appears only in old Dutch charts, has

LIEFOU—GEDEH. 789

since been seen by Captain C. Hart, who describes it as a small patch a litcle
above water, or even with the water' edge, situated in lat. 8° 41' S., long.
123° 51' E. It lies 6 miles off shore, and 6 miles S.W. of Grula.

Gula or Goela is a small island of middling height in 9° 15' S. and 124° E.,
distant 6 or 8 miles from Timor, and bearing N. by W. from Timoe Peak,
which is in 9=" 33' S.

Tulang Ihan Bay is in long. 124° 16' E. Sunken Rocks lie just off the shore
at 2 and 5 miles westward of it.

Liefou, a portuguese settlement, in 9' 12' S. and 124° 24' E., or 24' E. of
Goela Island, according to the observations of D'Entrecasteaux, has an open
roadstead, which is separated from Tolanican Bay by a low point. There is
anchorage near the village of Koesie in 22 fathoms, 2 cables' lengths oflf
shore, the houses bearing about South, Liefou Point E.N.E., 2 miles dis-
tant, and Gula West. A vessel might anchor near Sotrana in 30 to 40
fathoms, foul and rocky ground, about 1^ cable's length off shore, with the
houses bearing S. by W., Gula Island N.W. westerly, extremities of the
land N.E. by E. and W. ^ S.

Atapopa is a Dutch settlement, in lat. 8° 59' S., long. 124° 50' E., 28 miles
eastward of Liefou, which, cannot be seen at more than 2 miles distance, as
the land rises immediately behind it. The land thereabout is remarkably
rugged, in some parts rocky and barren, but generally wooded. To Dutch
Point, 7 miles westward of Atapopa, the coast is foul, and for 5 miles to the
eastward. The outer anchorage is in 36 fathoms, half a mile off shore,
N.W. from the village of Dolilo, and with a tomb at Atapopa in line with a
gap, S. by E. ^ E. This is also the leading mark through the narrow en-
trance in the reef into the inner harbour.

Gedeh is a Portuguese settlement in 8° 57' S. and 124° 55' E., as observed
on board H.N.M. frigate Boreas, in 1838. It lies in a valley surrounded by
picturesque mountains, and is frequented by whalers. It is fronted by a
rock, which bears N.N.E. from the flagstaff, and with soundings near it.
The Boreas, coming from the westward, had no soundings till within 4 miles
of the road, then 65, 55, and 50 fathoms, decreasing to 35 fathoms, a cable's
length off shore ; being becalmed, she was towed round the West point of
the bay, and steered for the rock in soundings of 42, 50, 45 to 26 fathoms,
brownish sand, where she came-to, the flagstaff bearing S.S.E. ^ E., distant
2 cables' lengths, the rock N.E. J N., N.E. point of the road N.N.E. J E.,
and Pantar Peak N.W. by W. ^ W. It is very tedious work to water
here, on account of the great surf on the beach. The best landing place is
abreast of the fort, where the boats come to their grapnel. The tides in this
road and farther to the westward close in-shore, change, but are very weak.
A sunken rock lies 2 miles off shore, on the North side of the anchorage,
with Mount Sukekit bearing S.W. by S.

DIELLI, or Dilli, belonging to the Portuguese, is the principal port on

790 DIELLI.

the North side of Timor, where the Netherlands India Steam-Navigation
Company's boats and other ships proceeding through the Ombay passage
sometimes stop for supplies. Lieutenant Kolff gave a sad picture of it in
1825 when he visited it in the Bourga, and Mr. A. R. Wallace, the natura-
list, who visited it in 1861, says " it is a most miserable place compared with
even the poorest of the Dutch towns. The houses, the custom-house, and
the church are all built of mud and thatch ; the fort is only a mud enclo-
sure." Dilli is much frequented by whalers, and has a considerable trade in
wax and sandalwood. The flagstaff is in 8° 34' S. and 125° 37' E. From the
low situation of the town under the high land, it is with difficulty perceived
when coming from the northward, but to the eastward of it there is a bluff
projecting point by which it may be known. Off this bluff, at the distance
of half a mile, is a reported 3-fathoms patch. The houses and the flagstaff
wiU be visible when about 4 miles distant from the Timor shore, with the
peak of Kambing bearing N. ^ E. Large ships, which only stop for re-
freshments, should anchor at a fit distance outside of the reefs which form
the inner harbour, as the channel between the reefs is very narrow, and there
is little space inside of them.

A good outer anchorage is on the Brilliant Bank, on which 15 fathoms
least water is found, with the signal-tower bearing E.S.E. 2 miles distant,
and Fatukama, the East point of Delhi Bay, N.E. by E. ^ E. This bank ia
three-quarters of a mile long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and was first made
known by Captain Walker in 1867.

The inner harbour is formed by the reefs running off the bay points and
another detached reef between them, which are mostly dry at low water, and
consist of sand and coral. The western entrance, on the North side of which
is a white buoy, is the widest and most used, but it is difficult to run out
through this channel when there is no land breeze. The new lighthouse
is on the reefs forming the South side of the western entrance, and the white
buoy above mentioned, bears N.E., distant 2 cables' lengths from it.

To enter the harbour of Dielli from the westward, pass mid-channel be-
tween the lighthouse and the white buoy in soundings from 10 to 6 and 14
fathoms. The instant a ship hauls round the reef near the West point of
the bay, sail should be reduced. Steer for the custom-house, which is a
large building standing near the beach, to the westward of a high tree, and
keep it in one with the gate of the church, which will lead you close to a
coral patch, on which a bamboo has been planted in 10 or 11 ft. When in-
side of this patch, haul in for the West part of the harbour, and come-to in
9 fathoms at an equal distance from the custom-house, and the bridge to
the westward, and abreast of a white house. The shore is here^steeper and
softer than near the custom-house, where there are two coral patches, with
3 and 6 feet water over them. Between the reefs the bottom is hard, but
iubide mud.

80UTn COAST OF TIMOR. 791

The eastern channel is only half a cable's length wide, but it has a leading
wind during the western monsoon, both for ships entering or going out. To
enter it, keep the high, tree in one with the house standing between the
church and the custom-house. There are soundings from 20 to 7 fathoms in
this channel. Haul close round the point of the reef, to avoid the patches
abreast of the custom-house. Another good anchorage is in 15 fathoms,
with the flagstaff of the fort bearing S.E. I E., the church S.E. ^- S., the bat-
tery near the inner point W. ^ S., and the South point of Kambing Island
N. by W. I W. It is high water, at full and change of moon, at 1^ 30™, and
the rise of the tide is 6 ft. at the springs. Cattle and vegetables may be had
here, but rice and poultry are neither cheap nor abundant.

Between Manatuti Point and Lameh Point, 18 miles to the eastward, is a
deep bay, in the western part of which is Mantotte, 4 or 5 miles southward
ol Manatuti Puint. Lamsana, a snug cove a few miles farther to the east-
ward, sheltered by reefs from all winds, has good anchorage in 8 or 9
fathoms. Wemasee anchorage is just westward of Lameh Point. Lameh
Point has sunken rocks off it. Laga anchorage is 10 miles to the S.E. of it.

Between the bluff point eastward of Dilhi and Manatute Point, 20 miles
to the eastward, the coast should not be approached within 5 miles, as sunken
rocks lie off" it.

Abreast the S.E. point of Ombay is the narrowest part of the strait of
Jklalloea, or the Ombay passage, which is there 5 leagues wide.

The currents in the Ombay Passage are noticed on page 31.

The SOUTH COAST of TIMOR, although little frequented, is safe to ap-
proach within a moderate distance. In coasting along this side of island
during the night, keep at a moderate distance from the points of land, aa
several of them have projecting reefs. This coast stretches about N.E. by
lE. and S.W. by W. ; the land is low near the coast, but gentle hills rise a
little inland and a chain of high mountains is in the interior, which may be
seen 27 leagues. The land is mostly covered with trees, except in some parts
which appear cultivated. Ships in sailing along this coast have found many
small islets that were safe to approach, and soundings of 15 to 25 fathoms
within 1| mile of the shore.

Nusa Besie, or Jackee Island, in about 8° 25' S. and 127° 16' E., fronts the
East point of Timor. It is low and flat, appearing as a land-tongue, before
it opens with Timor. There is anchorage between it and Timor, but the cur-
rents set with great velocity through the channel.

H.B.M. ship North Star saw six remarkable white cliffs of difi'erent di-
mensions in 124° 17' E., probably Batoe Poetie, which H.F.M. sloop Casua-
rina, Commander L. Freycinet, made in 124° 15' 30" E.

Ships crossing over between Wetter and Amboina generally run in sight
of Gunong Api, to secure the passage along the Lucipara and Turtle Is-
lands.

792 DIRECTIONS.

GUNONG API, in 6° 43' S. and 126° 43' E., is a high conical mountain,
visible 15 or 16 leagues. It is in a state of ignition, with smoke generally
issuino- from the crater at the summit, and is bold to approach.

DIRECTIONS. — In addition to the remarks given on pages 80 — 85 ante,
the following will be useful Leaving Amboina in the eastern monsoon
(April to September) steer for Gunong Api, give a wide berth to the Luci-
para Islands, on account of which it is preferable to pass to the westward of
them, as the current generally sets strong to the westward during this mon-
soon. From thence, if bound to Europe, steer to make Honden Island, and
proceed through the Ombay Passage and the channel to the eastward or
westward of Savu. Being so far to the southward as Eotti or Savu, the
S.E. winds will begin gradually to increase in strength.

If bound to Java, the passage through the strait of Salayer would be pre-
ferable ; but when the route along the islands to the eastward of Java is
be taken, steer for Komba Island, and proceed to the westward along the
North coast of Floris, towards the Strait of Madura ; or when on the meri-
dian of Alias Strait, cross over so as to pass between TJrk and Kangeang,
or between the former and Takat Shoals, and proceed along the North coast
of Madura, directions for which passages have been given in former pages.

The general passage for ships bound from Java to Amboina during the
western monsoon, is through the Strait of Salayer.

Ships leaving Amboina for Europe or Java during the western monsoon,
generally proceed by the northern route, i.e., to the northward of Celebes
and Borneo, or in the latter part of the monsoon through the Strait of Ma-
kassar. Should Amboina be left in March, the southern passage may be
adopted, i.e., to work along the North coast of the islands to the eastward of
Java, as there, generally, the winds begin to shift and the currents to di-
minish in strength. It is advisable to stand up toward Buru, and from
thence to work over near St. Matthew Islands. Having approached these
and Veldhoen Island, a southerly or S.S.W. course ought to be followed in
crossing over to the islands to the eastward of Java. If bound to- Europe,
pass through the Strait of Allor ; and when clear of it, proceed through the
channel between Sandalwood and Savu, or between the latter and Eotti.

Leaving Amboina in the strength of the western monsoon bound to the
westward, and having occasion to take the southerly passage, though it may
not be possible to weather the strait of Allor, nor probably the Ombay pas-
sage ; yet a ship ought to use every means to pass on the North side of
Timor, for if she fall to leeward, and be obliged to round the East of
that island, she will find great difficulty in beating to the westward between
it and the coast of Australia, where strong winds from W.N.W. to W.S.W.,
"with squally weather and a heavy sea, usually prevail from November to
April. If a ship should unavoidably fall to leeward, work to the westward
along the South coast of Timor.

CHAPTER XVIII.

ISLANDS AND PASSAGES EASTWARD OF BORNEO.

We are now advancing eastward into regions of which, much less is accu-
rately known than perhaps of any other part of the maritime world. The
extensive archipelagoes which lie between the more frequented islands of
Java and Borneo, and the North Pacific, are but little visited for commer-
cial purposes by European nations. Their inhabitants, more or less un-
civilized, have few European wants, and but few products for exportation.
There has been no regular survey made of any large portion of this area.
A few detached places have been well examined, and positions accurately
determined, by Dutch and English officers. To fill up the voids which occur
in our recent knowledge, we are obliged to have recourse to the older voyages,
or to the recitals of scientific travellers not specially appertaining to hydro-
graphy.

What follows, therefore, in this chapter must be generally received with
caution ; neither the date of much of the information, nor its confessedly
imperfect nature, can induce confidence. It will be needless to recite the
numerous authorities consulted ; but should more intimate knowledge, or
greater detail be required, other works, not usually available at sea, must
be consulted.

THE STRAIT OF MAKASSAR.

The great channel eastward of Borneo, which takes its name from the port
or rather the nation, on the S.W. extreme of Celebes, is 360 miles long, and
with a breadth varying from 150 to 65 miles, the narrowest portion being its
northern entrance. This large area is separated into several channels by
extensive shoals and numerous islands which lie chiefly in the central por-
tion. Many of these are of the most dangerous character, and when it is

I. A. 5 I

794 * THE STRAIT OE MAKASSAE.

remembered that this strait and the coasts which limit it have not been
properly surveyed, and that many dangers may, and probably do, remain
undiscovered, it behoves every commander who passes through it to use more
than ordinary caution.

It may be said, generally, that there are two channels most available, the
one along the Borneo coast, which appears to be preferable, and that on the
Celebes side, the latter having unfathomable depths close-to, and not afford-
ing any anchorage, while the reverse is the case on the opposite side.

The EAST COAST of BORNEO is subject to the Dutch, who exercise
sovereignty over it, in virtue of several treaties with the native sovereigns
entered into since 1816. The total area in Borneo thus claimed by the
Netherlands as belonging to that nation, embraces two-thirds of the entire
island, or a territory one-half larger than Great Britain and Ireland. But
their sway over by far the greater portion is of the slightest character, and
this sovereignty over a vast tropical wilderness can be but of little advan-
tage to them.

The charts, or rather maps, which have been published by the Topogra-
phical Bureau at Batavia, show how little is known of the coast in question ;
and, therefore, the few remarks which follow are of a vague character, and
are made in accordance with the charts published by the Dutch Com-
mission.

PULO LAUT, or Great Pulo Laut, has been before mentioned, page 741,
and the strait which separates it from the S.E. extreme of Borneo is there
described. The island is 53 miles long North and South. Its N.E. part is
lofty, forming a peak called Gunong Seeleloeng, and its eastern part is appa-
rently clear of danger, with soundings of 13 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom,
at 6 or 8 miles off. Off its South point lies a small island, Pulo Kunyit
(Koenjit), the South end of which is in lat. 4° 6' 20" S., long. 116° 5' E.

At 9 miles S.E. from this is a small island Dwaalder, and 6J miles farther
in the same direction are the Two Brothers, or Gehroeders, all surrounded by
reefs, but having 14 to 16 fathoms water between them. Dwaalder is higher
at the East and West ends than in the middle, so that it appears like a
saddle when seen from the southward. Erom its eastern side a reef pro-
jects about the length of the island. It is in lat. 4° 13' 40" S., long. 116° 11'
E. At 71 miles due East of Dwaalder is the St. George Banh, with 12 and
14 fathoms close up to it. To the N.N.W. of this, and 9 miles East of
Kunyit, are the Bira Birakan Islands, surrounded by an extensive reef.

Pulo Seboekoe, or Sehuku, an island 16 miles long, lies off the East coast
of Pulo Laut, but we have no particulars of the strait within it ; it is high
in the centre. From its North point, Tanjong Manghop, a reef projects for
2 miles. At 4 miles West of Mangkop Point is Manti Island, and 2 miles
West of this small island is a sunken rock.

Tanjong Pamantyngan, the North point of Pulo Laut, has a reef around it,

THE THEEE ALIKE ISLANDS. 795

but it may be rounded at the distance of li miles in 8 or 10 fathoms. In the
bay formed by the North part of Sebuku and the projecting point of Borneo,
Tanjong Dewa, 31- miles to the North of it, and facing the northern part of
the Strait of Pulo Laut (see page 741), there is shelter from all winds, ex-
cept those from North and East. The northern part of this bay is shoal, but
the soundings are regular to the watering place under the high land on the
West side, where you may anchor abreast of it in 6 fathoms, about li mile
oS shore, with the N.E. point of the bay bearing E. by S. i S., and a small
island covered with trees, on the East side of the bay, bearing S.E.. Oysters
may be got, and the woods abound with wild hogs and deer ; but care should
be exercised when a party lands, as the natives are treacherous, although
under Dutch supervision.

The THREE ALIKE ISLANDS, or Pulo Sambarghp, lie 15 miles East of
the South end of Sebuku. Their centre is in lat. 3° 39' S., long. 116° 41'.
They bear N.E. 45 miles from Dwaalder, and form a group of three is-
lands, alike in appearance, exclusive of an islet and some contiguous rocks,
visible 5 or 6 leagues off. The channel between them and Sebuku is quite
safe, and they are also quite clear to the eastward for 17 miles, where is the
Twee Vrienden Eeef presently described.

The southern entrance to the strait of Makassar has an extensive range of
shoals and islets which lie to the northward of those existing off the North
coasts of Bali, Lombok, and Sumbawa. Of these the following is a descrip-
tion as far as is known.

The Sibbald Bank appears to the south-westernmost. It is not exten-
sive ; but Captain Forbes sounded in from 20 to 5 fathoms, coral, so that
there may be less depth now. Its shoalest part, 5 fathoms, is placed in 5°
46' S., long. 117° 4' E., or 83 miles N.E. by N. from Hastings Island.
Around this shoalest patch is 6 fathoms at 2 miles to the S.E., 8 fathoms at
2 miles W.S.W., and 10 fathoms at 2 miles to the N.E. There is deep water
beyond these depths, and another 5-fathoms patch lies 9 miles eastward, re-
ported by Lieutenant Howe, E.N, This patch lies in lat. 5' 45' S., long.
117° 12' E. At 2 miles North of it is a depth of 7 fathoms, and for 5 miles
S.S.E. of it the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms ; outside these soundings is deep
water, but a detached 7-fathoms patch lies 12 miles S.S.E. of the 5-fathom8
patch.

The Aurora Bank, coral, with several casts of 4f fathoms on it, and per-
haps less, is apparently about three-quarters of a mile broad, in lat. 5° 25'
S., long. 116° 58' E.

Nusa Komba, a low island, in lat. 5° 14' S., long. 117° 4' E., has a reef
extending for 6 miles to the South of it. At 9 miles North of it is Sibaru, or
Siharoe, the southernmost of a group of four low wooded islands, called Nusa
Siri, extending 5 miles to the northward, the northern one in 5° 0' S. 117° 5'
E., and may be seen at a considerable distance. Trinidad Shoal, of 4^

796 THE STEAIT OF MAKASSAE.

fathoms, lies midway between Sibaroe and Nusa Komba, and 6^ fathoms
has been reported at 6 miles S.W. by S. of Sibaroe. A 10-fathom bank, 8
miles wide from East to West, lies to the northward of Noesa Siri Islands,
and on this bank are two 4^-fathom patches, one lying 6 miles North, and
the other 6 miles N.W. of the northernmost island of the Noesa Siri
Group.

Pudsey Dawson, a 45-fathom patch, is in lat 4° 42' S., long. 117*^ 4' E. ■

Laurel Reef is a narrow reef, extending from an 8-fathom patch, in
4° 20' S., to a 3^-fathom patch in 4" 34' S. ; the last-named patch is very
steep-to, and at 5 miles northward of it is a 2^-fathom patch, named Batii
Batong, in lat. 4° 29' S., long. 1 17° 7' E. At 9 miles eastward of the Laurel
Eeef another similar reef is marked, but its existence is very doubtful.

The Martalan Shoal, so named after the ship which discovered it, is placed
in 4'^ ir S., long. 117° 10' E., 20 miles to the northward of the Laurel
Shoal.

The ship Sea Serpent, in lat. 3° 56' S., long. 117° 28' E., anchored on a
coral bank about a quarter of a mile long, the least depth lound being from
4 to 6 fathoms. There was no discolouration of the water.

A bank that dries, with a reef extending southward of it for about 1 mile,
was discovered in lat. 3° 31' 50" S., long. 117° 29' 40" E.

At 10 miles E.S.E. and 11 miles S.E. of the last-named bank are two
others.

Twee Vrienden Reef, about 2 cables in length, and in some places 6 feet
above water, reported in 1876, was discovered by a vessel of that name
striking on it. Its estimated position is lat. 3° 40' S., long. 117" 8' E.

Franklin Bank is in lat. 3° 2' S., 117° 33' E.

The Triatiffles or Zari Larien Isles are three small islands, nearly in the
middle of the strait, of which the southernmost, in lat. 3° 5' S., long. 117°
50' E., is a small sandy island, with several bushes on it. At 4 miles to the
northward of it are the two other islands near together. Union Bank, a
small bank of 8 fathoms, is 25 miles eastward of the Triangles.

Laars (Dutcli) the Boot Bank, is an extensive shoal, or collection of coral
banks, of very irregular figure, the South end of which is in lat. 6° 2' S.,
long. 118° 14' E. ; its West end, 10 fathoms, in lat. 5° 44' S., long. 118° E.
Between its western end and the Sibbald Bank are some 10-fathom patches.
In lat. 5° 47' S., long. 118° 17' E., is a 5-fathom patch, S.S.W. 5 miles, S.E.
12 miles, and E.N.E. 15 miles from which, other similar patches have been
reported. A low wooded island, Saflana, Zalineff, or Pulo Bewnkan, is situated
on the North end of Laars Bank, in lat. 5° 26' S., long. 118° 26' E. At 6
miles S. ^ E. of it is another similar island, named Laars Island, islets and
rocks lying between. Dangerous rocks also extend for 5 miles to the south-
ward, and 10 miles to the westward of Laars Island. The general soundings
on these banks are from 10 or 15 fathoms to 4 fathoms, which appears to be

TONYN ISLAND. 797

the least water found, and that towards its northern part. A depth of 12
fathoms, coral, was found by the Vittor Pisani, to the southward of the Boot,
in lat. 6° 4' 30" S., long. 118° 15' E. The bank appeared about a mile
broad.

The best track for crossing the Boot Bank is southward of lat. b" 40'; but
in thick weather a wide berth should be given to the islands by keeping well
to the southward, for there is probably no danger on the southern part,
though the depths of 5 or 6 fathoms, when there is much swell, may not be
pleasant for a large ship.

Tonyn Island, or Benkoehean, is low and woody, in lat. 5° 31' S., long. 118°
36' E., or 7 miles East of Laars Island. It is surrounded by coral rocks.

To the westward and north-westward of Pulo Saflana, between the
Laars Bank and those previously described, is a range of islands and banks,
of which but little is known. The northernmost is shown on the Dutch
charts, Edam or Medemblik, in lat. 5° 0' S., long. 11 7° 56' E., and to the south-
ward, in an extent of 23 miles, are those named Middellurg, Hoorn, Amster-
dam, or BoandoenganJcetjil and Doandoenganhezaar, the last in lat. 5° 23J' S.,
long. 117° 55' E. These southern islands have been called the Hen and
Chickens in the old charts. To the westward of this range is Rotterdam.
Island, or Kaloekaloekoan, about 33 miles E. \ N. from Nusa Komba. It is
said to have good water on it, and that there are two reefs 12 miles to the
"West, and 10 miles to the S.W. of it. Sunken rocks, discovered near the
islands above mentioned, lie as follows. Rotterdam Island should not be
approached, except with great caution, to within the distance of 2 miles ; a
sunken rock also lies 3J miles S.E. of it. Edom Island has a 5-fathom patch
at 4 miles "West of it, and a series of rocks extending 5 miles N.N.W. from
it. Middleburg Island has a sunken rock 3 miles "West of it, and between
this island and the northern danger extending from Horn Island, the
distance is 2 miles. Between Horn and Amsterdam Island is unsafe. At 7
miles "W. ^ S. from Doandoanganbezar is a sunken rock.

To the eastward of the islands and shoals just mentioned, the water was
examined by H.M.S. Nassau, in 1872. Marisindeh Island is in lat. 5° 5' S.,
long. 118° ir E. ; at 6 miles to the southward of it is the northern end of a
dangerous bank, which thence extends 3 miles to the southward. At 27
miles E.N.E. of Marisindeh is Taka Bakang or Teignmouth Bank, 3 miles in
diameter; it lies 23 miles to the westward of the dangers of the Spermonde
Archipelago.

The Brill Shoal, or Taka Romata, the south- easternmost of this range of
islets and shoals, is very dangerous. Its South end is in lat. 6^ 8' S., long.
118° 55' E. It is probably a coral reef, with very steep sides, about 5 miles
long, North and South. The rocks are awash on its northern part, and in
many rarts the verge has only 2 ft, water.

798 THE STRAIT OF MAKASSAR.

The banks and islands which lie against the S.W. part of Celebes will be
described presently.

The COAST of BORNEO, northward of Pulo Laut, is but little known, and
has been very seldom visited by Europeans. A peculiar race, a kind of sea
gypsies, live about the mouths of the rivers. They are called by Mr. Earl
the Orang Badju, dwelling in boats of 8 or 10 tons burden, each boat con-
taining a family of about 15 inhabitants, who employ themselves in catching
and curing fish and trepang. They are very trustworthy, and are very use-
ful in carrying despatches or any similar offices.

Eloempang, or Ealumpang Bay, lies immediately North of the point which
protects the entrance to the Pulo Laut Strait. Pulo Nanha, and an islet to
the North of it, lie in the entrance, round the North end of which is the
channel which leads to an apparently well sheltered roadstead. A rock lies
a mile off the East end of this islet. To the North of this the land is
skirted by a broad shelf, with breakers on its outer edge 4 and 5 miles from
land.

Shoal or Flat Point, Tanjong Mirra, in lat. 2° 35' S., long. 116° 32" E.,
is the southern extremity of a piece of wooded level land, about 9 leagues
in length. To the South of it is the entrance to Bamulan Bay^ a large bay,
into which several rivers fall, and which form the outlet of the district of
Tamah Boemhoe. A reef projects from Shoal Point for 4 J miles in a southerly
direction, having some rocks and bushes above water, but the flat which
fronts the point may be borrowed on with safety to 6 fathoms on the East
side, about 2 leagues distant from the point, the bottom being soft, and the
depth very gradually decreasing. Steering a direct course along the coast,
the water shoals about 2 fathoms abreast the point, and returning to the
former depth when past it.

Ragged Point, Tanjong Ares, is in lat. 2° 8' 30" S., long. 116° 37' E., and
27 miles N. by E. from Flat Point. The land between them being level
and moderately elevated, is terminated to the northward by Ragged Point,
which is bluff, with some gaps among the trees, and surrounded by a reef.

Shoals.— This portion of the Strait of Makassar is the most intricate, as
there are several shoals which contract the passage on this side to its
narrowest part. These shoals have not been properly examined, and the
soundings not being regular, there is great difficulty in avoiding them at
night. The Hercules Shoal is one of these, in lat. 2° 20' S., long. 116° 45' E.
It bears S. 35° E. from Ragged Point, and N. 47° E. from Flat Point, distant
11-^- miles from shore. It is composed of sand, coral, and stones, with from
3 to 9 ft. water on it, and from 15 to 17 fathoms close- to. At 7 miles to the
N.E., and 8 miles N.W. by N. of the Hercules Shoal, are other detached
dangers.

Addington Shoal appears to be the southernmost. It is a very dangerous
coral patch of 14 ft. water, with Flat Point bearing N.W. i N., distant 20

THE LITTLE PATEENOSTEES. 799

miles. It apparently forms part of an extensive series of patches, with deep
water between them, the extent being nearly 2J miles in a N.W. and S.E.
direction. There are several distinct shoals, one a patch of sand above water,
on the N.W. side.

When abreast this dangerous shoal, it is best to keep within 4 or 5 leagues
of the coast, and not to bring Flat Point to the westward of N. W., North, or
N.W. I N., until to the northward of its parallel, which is about lat. 2° 50'.
Breakers were also seen to the N.E. of it, in lat. 2° 40' S., long. 117° 0' E.,
extending North and South about 5 miles.

The LITTLE PATERNOSTERS, or Pulo Palabalagan, lie in the middle
of the strait off this part. They are called the Little Paternosters, to distin-
guish them from the other group North of Sumbawa. They are most
vaguely placed on the charts, but are said to consist of thirteen small isles,
with banks of sand and coral above and under water, scattered over a space
80 miles in breadth, on the parallel of 2" 20' S. The southernmost isle is in
lat. 2= 42' S. ; the north-easternmost in lat. 2° 10' S., long. 117^ 56' E. ; and
the north-westernmost in lat. 2° 8' S., long. 117° 35' E. On these two isles
there is fresh water ; they are all covered with low trees, and should not be
approached, as their neighbourhood is dangerous, breakers and shoals lying
fully 8 miles to the northward of the N.W. islet, and for 30 miles East and
West of them are numerous scattered reefs.

The Blenheim Reef, in lat. 2° 24' S., at 21 miles E.N.E. of Flat Point, is
apparently the westernmost of the above shoals, and therefore forms the
eastern side of the fairway. The Hannah Shoal, about 26 miles E. by S. of
Eagged Point, in lat. 2° 18' S., long. 117° 2' E., forms a portion of these
western limits. Emily Anina Islet, in 2° 4' S., long. 117° E., is doubtful.

Pasir or Passier River, on the coast of Borneo, the mouth of which is in
lat. 1° 51' S., is a considerable stream, about 40 or 50 miles up which is the
town of Pasir, formerly of some importance, a considerable native trade being
carried on with the Spice Islands ; but it subsequently became a den of in-
famy and piracy. In 1772 the English proposed to establish a factory here,
but did not carry it into effect. The anchorage off the mouth of the river or
Kwala Pasir, is in 4J or 5 fathoms, 3 leagues off shore, to the northward of
the river. There are some shoals in the South part of the bay, between
Eagged Point and the river, from 3 to 6 miles off shore, to avoid which, in
coming to Pasir, you should get into the latitude of the anchorage before
approaching the shore, and then steer West for it. Supplies may be got at
the town, but ships must be guarded against attack. At the N.W. part of
the bay is the broad entrance of Pasir J^ama, called Adang Bay All the land
is low and wooded near the sea, but inland it is hilly.

Jason Reef, off this coast, is 5 miles in extent. North and South, and 4
miles East and West ; its N.E. end is in lat. 1° 47' S., long. 116° 55' E. The
eastern part is 9 leagues eastward of the entrance to the Pasir Eiver. There

800 THE STEAIT OF MAKASSAE.

is a depth of from 12 to 23 fathoms to westward, and 18 to 20 fathoms im-
mediately to the eastward of them.

From Tanjong Telakai, the N.E. point of Adang Bay, the coast trends to
the north-eastward for 26 miles to Balih Papan Bay ; the coast is low, but at
30 miles N.W. of the bay a detached mountain is seen, Gunong Balik Papan,
and to the North of Adang Bay the land rises in hummocks. A rock lies in
the middle of the entrance to the bay.

The RIVER KOETEI or Koti, or Mahakkan, one of the most consider-
able in Borneo, forms a delta commencing in lat. 0° 57' S., and extending
thence for 40 miles to the northward, the low land intersected by its nume-
rous branches and mouths, being called Pulo Pamarang, or Pamarung, or
Dondrekin Eiland, by the Dutch, and it was surveyed by a Dutch oflB.cer,
Q-. W. E. Moeth, in 1856. The various branches diverge from a point more
than 25 miles from the bars of the southern entrances, and the town of San-
gason stands on the South side of the stream. At 9 or 10 miles still higher
up the river is the larger Bugis town of Samarinda, the capital of the state
of Koetei ; Tengaroeng or Tongarron being 30 miles in direct distance to the
N.W., but much more following the windings of the river, which is here
very tortuous. The Sultan of Koetei entered into a treaty with the Nether-
lands Grovernment, October 12th, 1845, by which he acknowledged the
sovereignty of that nation, and by which he undertakes to suppress piracy,
and accords the free navigation of the river as high as Samarinda. A Dutch
expedition under Major Muller, ascended the river in 1825, to cross the
country to the West coast, but they were cut off by the Dyaks. Mr. Dalton,
an Englishman, went up two years after, and lived 15 months among the
Dyaks. The river in the rainy season brings down large drifts of trees and
vegetation, carrying them out to sea, when they appear frequently at a dis-
tance like small islands or prahus under sail.

Pamarung Islands form the delta as before said. The south-westernmost
mouth, Muara Dyawa, is in lat. 1° 0' S., long. 117° 20' E. It runs to the
northward, and has 10 ft. least water on the bar, but is deeper within,
although between the bar and Sangason there are some places with only 6
feet depth. Numerous branches debouche to the eastward of these, one of
the largest behind Oedjong Becapay, 14 miles from Muara Dyawa. Tanjong
Bayor, the easternmost, and central point of the delta, is in lat. 0° 43' S.,
long. 117° 38' E. The shoal water extends fully 6 to 10 miles outside the
dry land to the northward and eastward, but its outer edge is here more
steep-to than the southern portion of the islands and flats of the delta. The
tides rise here from 8 to 9 ft. A detached 2i-fathom patch lies 14 miles
S.E. by E. of Tanjong Bayor.

The Coast of Koetei, to the northward of the Pamarung Islands, is little
known, and but seldom seen. At 25 miles North of them is a cluster of
islets and rocks, which extend along the shore to lat. 0° 10' N. A slight

ISLAND OF CELEBES. 801

projection of the land, Oedjong /Saw^aw^ lying on the equator. In lat. 0°22'N.,
and at 8 miles off shore, is a detached rock, Karang Sangatta ; and in lat.
0° 35' N., long. 117° 55' E., is Bungalun Rock, marked doubtful in position
on the chart. These should be thought of should a vessel venture into this
great bay, at the head of which, in lat. 0° 45' N., there is anchorage in 5 to
10 fathoms, muddy bottom, near the shore, but be careful of another detached
rock, li mile from the land. The coast from this trends to the eastward for
68 miles, with no place worthy of remark except a large bay in long. 118° ,
called Sanhoelirang or Telolch SaJca Bag, at the back of which is a mountain of
the same name. Bira Birahan, a small islet, lies 8 miles off shore, in long.
118° 27' E. At 6 miles E.S.E. of it is a shoal, varying from 10 fathoms to
18 ft., in lat. 0^ 42' N., long. 118° 35' E. It was discovered in 1869 by the
Dutch barque Johanna Anthonia.

TANJONG KANIONGAN is the north-western limit of the Strait of Ma-
kassar. It is in lat. 1° 4' N., long. 115° 56' E. It is the eastern extremity
of a range of high even land, which extends to the westward, joining the
great central chain of mountains. At 7 miles south-westward of it a rocky
shoal lies against the shore, and immediately around the cape itself there is
shoal water, but outside this the depth is very considerable. From the cape
the land trends to the W.N.W., and has some extensive shoals and several
islets, with channels intersecting them at 8 or 10 miles distant. These
islands, and the rest which lie off the northern side of the peninsula, are very
differently represented in the more recent Dutch charts, to what is given by
older authors, and they cannot in any way be considered as forming the
entrance to the strait.

The ISLAND of CELEBES, one of the most singular in the world, forms
the eastern limit of the strait. Except in some small portions, it has never
been surveyed, but on the coasts not examined there appears to be few dan-
gers to navigation ; the water is very deep close-to as far as is known,
but the paucity of observations will give but little knowledge of its real
character.

The grotesque form of the island, four long peninsulas joined together, is
familiar to every schoolboy. From this cause it has few or no rivers worth
mentioning, and its mountainous character is such, that the fertilizing effects
of these streams is carried at once into the deep waters of the ocean. Thus
there is but little agriculture, and the total population of the island does not
much, if at all, exceed a million, while, if it were as fertile as Java, it ought
to be fifteen times as many, the area of Celebes being one-half larger than
Java. The best known portion of the island, is the southern peninsula, and
it is by far the most populous and important. A chain of mountains runs
through it, and terminates to the southward in the highest point of the
island, Lompoe Batang, 8,200 ft. high, and near to the southern coast.
I. A. 5 k

802 ISLAND OF CELEBES.

The people of Celebes are of the same race as those of Sumatra, Java, and
Borneo, but are divided into a very great number of tribes, possessing every
variety of civilization, from the savage cannibal and head-hunter to the man
of letters. The most civilized portion is that in the S. W. peninsula. The
great feature of the nativfes of Celebes is their propensity for the sea. This
probably arises from the proximity of every part of the island to the sea, its
sterility, and the abundance of fish which may be caught around it. From
whatever cause it proceeds, the inhabitants of Celebes are at present the most
skilful and adventurous native mariners and merchants of the archipelago.
Their little vessels of peculiar build, called Padewakan by the Malays, and
of the burden of from 40 to 50 tons, conduct the carrying trade from 'one end
of the archipelago to the other, their outward and homeward voyages being
guided by the monsoons. Besides the trade conducted in Celebes itself, the
people of this island are to be found as settlers in every part of the archipe-
lago where there is trade and protection, and many vessels belonging to
them sail from such settlements." — Crawfurd.

The whole of the island is, nominally at least, subject to the Dutch, and
it is divided into three provinces. The government of Mangkasser, em-
bracing the southern and part of the south-eastern peninsula ; the Eesidence
of Ternati, attached to the Moluccas, around the shores of the eastern Gulf
of Tomaiki, and the residence of Manado, embracing the shores of the Grulf
of Tomini and the long northern peninsula. The capital of the whole is
Makassar or Mangkasser.

SONTHEIN, on the South coast of the southern peninsula, is a Dutch
town, at the head of a bay, in lat. 5" 32' S., long. 119° 55' E. It is connected
by a post road with Macassar, 50 miles in length. Behind it rise the
highest mountains in Celebes, Gunong Loempoe, Ballang, or Bonthein PeaJc,
before mentioned; its summit is 11 miles due North of the town. There is
good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, at about 2 miles off from the
village. The land rises from the shore towards the slopes of the mountains,
and on its upper portion potatoes and European vegetables are grown.

Boelecomla, another Dutch village, is 14 miles eastward of Bonthein.
Boelecomba Hill, in longitude 120° 8' E., is not very conspicuous when first
seen in coming from the westward ; but when abreast of it, it becomes an
excellent mark, being a high conical hill standing by itself on the low land
near the sea to the N.W. of the village. There is good anchorage off it
with the bell buoy N.N.W. J W. and the flagstaff of Boelecomba N.N.W.
2J or 3 miles in 6J or 7 fathoms, sand and mud. Water may be procured
in the river on the East side of the bay, by sending boats about a quarter of
a mile up it. A coral reef projects nearly 2 miles from the western point of
the watering bay, and is steep-to.

Melassor Bay is 20 miles westward of Bonthein, Cape Boelo Boelo, the
southernmost point of Celebes, lying between. Its eastern extreme point is

POINT LATKAN-MAKASSAR. 803

called Elamhang, in lat. 5° 40' S., 119° 40' E. Between this and an islet on
the West side, the bay is 3 miles wide at the entrance. Shoal water extends
for \\ mile westward of Tanjong Klambang, but 3 and 4 fathoms ax'e found
close to the island on the West side. Toeratte Bay is to the westward of
Melassor Bay, but appears to be foul and rocky. The southern coast of
Celebes is fronted by a bank of tolerably regular soundings, '2 or 3 leagues
broad in some parts, which is a good guide by night, but 12 to 15 fathoms
are found close to the headlands.

POINT LAYKAN, or Tanjong Laikan, the south-westernmost point of
Celebes, is in lat. 5" 36' S., long. 119° 26' 30". It should have a berth of
3 miles 5n account of a coral bank which, extends for 1 J or 2 miles from it,
but the water shoals near it to 15 or 12 fathoms, and there are 4 and 5
fathoms on its edge.

TANA KEKE, an island about 3 miles in diameter, lies 10 miles north-
westward of Point Laykan. It has a level appearance, and may be seen 18
or 20 miles off. It is separated from the S.W. part of Celebes by a naviga-
ble channel about 2 miles wide, with 10 fathoms least water between the
reefs on either hand, soft bottom, but frequently coral. A Hack conical Her-
bert's luo7j, 8 ft. high, is placed on the N.E. part of the reef, against
Tana Keke Island, in 4^ fathoms water ; and a similar buoy, but painted
white, lies on the westerly projecting point of the Malang Beang Shoal in
3f fathoms. Between these two buoys there is a safe channel through the
Tana Keke Passage.

There is a 6-fathom patch about in mid-channel in the southern entrance.
Avoiding this on passing through, keep in mid-channel, or rather nearest to
Tana Keke. Three islands, called the Three Brothers, lie to the N.W. of
Tana Keke. The bank of soundings stretches to the West of these for 6
leagues, the outermost patch of 4^ fathoms lying in lat. 5° 22^' S., long.
118° 55' E. At 18 miles southward of this patch, and about the same dis-
tance south-eastward of Tonyn Island, is a bank of 13 to 17 fathoms, sur-
rounded by deep water.

Cape Magindari is 12 miles N.N.W. from Cape Laykan, and forms the
eastern limit of the strait within Tana Keke. From this the coast trends to
the northward, and at 6 miles from it is a small island, GUssong, close to the
coast.

MAKASSAR or MANGKASSER, the metropolis of Celebes, was surveyed
by Sir Edward Belcher, in 1844. He established an observatory near to
the North angle of the fort, in lat. 5° 8' 9" S., long. 119° 21' 18".

The Fort of Makassar, Kasteel Rotterdam, stands on the S.W. angle of the
town, disconnected by a ditch and high rampart, within which the military
reside. The town, which is walled, is very regularly built, extending about
one-quarter of a mile by half a mile over its squares, and having 3 gates on
its southern face, which were closed at 9 o'clock. The Chinese appear to con-

804 MAKASSAE.

stitute the majority of the population of the town, but the huts of the natives
extend far to the northward, and appear to be thickly inhabited, as are all
the coast and the islands. The fishing propensities of the natives are evident
everywhere. The beacons, which are frequently found in 16 and 17 fathoms,
induce a belief in shoal water. Makassar is reckoned particularly salubrious.
The atmosphere is very dry ; it seldom rains, and is similar to the climate of
Lima. Nevertheless the horizon and atmosphere on the mountains is very
hazy. The sea breeze generally sets in regularly about 10 o'clock, com-
mencing from the southward, and veers to the westward before sunset, when
it fails, and is succeeded about 10 o'clock by a cool land breeze. Stock is
plentiful and reasonable in price, as well as vegetables,

Makassar is a port of call for the Netherlands' India Steam Navigation
Company's boats. It was declared a free port by an ordinance from the
Dutch Governor-general, dated September 9th, 1846, which took effect on
January 1st, 1847. The roadstead of Makassar, though only an open one,
is not subject to storms, and has safe anchorage, and the native trade has
always been considerable. Subsequently to the enfranchisement of Makas-
sar two other places on the N.E. end of Celebes, Menado on the North side
and Kema on the opposite side were declared free ports on September 28th,
1848. In entering these roads all vessels are required to hoist their national
flag, which will be responded to on the shore, and a correct description of
the ship and her destination must be handed to the officers.

Lights.— On Fort Rotterdam a fixed bright light is shown, which is visible
11 miles off, and about 1^ mile to the southward a second light was estab-
lished in 1870. Previous to the establishment of this light a lightvessel
marked the South end of the Great Lelij Shoal. It illuminates in a seaward
direction an arc of 180°, divided into three sections, of which the central one,
measuring 30°, shows a red light, and the others, each of 75°, a white light.
The lantern is placed at an elevation of 39 ft. above the level of high water ;
the red light being visible 3 miles, and the white light 8 miles.

From the lighthouse, the beacon on Pienjing Shoal bears S. 67° 30' W.,
and the beacon on South end of Great Lelij Shoal N. 65° 30' W. ; the red
sector of light being about midway between these beacons.

The new light will serve, in conjunction with the harbour light at Macas-
sar, to render Macassar roads easy of access from the South and S.W. For
this purpose, having entered the red sector of light, steer for the light on an
easterly bearing, until Macassar harbour light bears N.E. by N., when steer
for it, taking care, on approaching the latter light, to alter course more to
the northward, in order to enter the roads.

The anchorage is within a line of shoals, the southernmost of which is
called the Great Lely, or Lelei, a mile in extent, and for a great part nearly
awash, its eastern angle being more than half a mile West of the castle, the
depths between varying from 7 to 10 fathoms. It is a coral reef covered

THE SPERMONDE AECHIPELAGO. 805

■with sand. The Little Lelei and other shoals extend for more than 2 miles
to the northward, but leave a clear channel of 9 fathoms depth between
them, which can be taken by bringing the North angle of the castle to bear
E. by S. ^ S. In coming to it from the southward the castle should not be
brought to the northward of N.N.E. ^ E. till past the dangerous Fieiijing
Reefy marked by a beacon, which lies off the extremity of a sandy spit jut-
ting out to the westward three-quarters of a mile on the South side of the
Goa Eiver, and 2J miles distant from the castle. The anchorage is abreast
the town in 7 or 8 fathoms.

The South end of the Great Lelij Shoal is marked by a beacon with a
triangular head, and Hoofd Eeef, the S.E. extreme of Little Lelij Reef, is
marked by a hlack buoy, moored in 2 fathoms, with a pyramid on the shore
bearing E. by N., and the Fort lighthouse S.S.E. f E., half a mile distant.
The eastern end of Little Lelij Shoal, and also the reef extending off Fort
Rotterdam, are each marked by a beacon.

In advancing from the westward, care must be taken to guard against a
sunken rock, marked on the Dutch charts at 2f miles nearly due West of
the fort ; it is there called Bonie Banlco. At 4 miles W. by N. from the fort
is Sammalona or DeviVs Island, surrounded by a reef. There are several
other islands scattered on the great flat which extends from 20 to 30 miles
off the coast for 70 miles northward of Tana Keke.

The SPERMONDE ARCHIPELAGO, as these islands are called, are best
understood by the chart ; it would be impossible to describe them verbally.
The whole of the space for 50 miles North of Makassar, and for 20 to 33
miles off shore, is a complete labyrinth of shoals. The westernmost of these
is Pulo Eapo Fosang,, in lat. 4° 43' S., long 118° 55' E., and this bears N.W.
^ W. 36 miles. A sunken rock on the reef which surrounds it lies nearly 2
miles westward from it, and at 2\ miles still farther West is a rock which
dries at low water, but separated from the main reef by a deep channel. To
the N.E. of this the limits of the reef have not been traced, but the northern
edge trends generally East and West, on the parallel of 4° 18' S., and is very
steep-to, the depths at a short distance outside being unfathomable.

There are channels through the Archipelago towards Makassar, and at
the northern entrance to this a Herbert's huoy, painted hlaclc, with a white
horizontal band, is placed on the N.E. part of the Tomisa Reef, in 5 fathoms
water. There are also some white stone beacons marking the reefs.

Pareh Pareh Bay, at 68 miles northward of Makassar, has a landlocked
basin at its head. The channel leading to it runs to northward 2 miles, and
is clear on the port side, but has some shoals on the opposite shore, abreast
of the village of Pareh Pareh, in lat. 4° 1' S., long. 119° 34' E. From this
the coast trends to N. by W. for about 33 miles, when it assumes a westerly
direction for 27 miles, forming an extensive bight, terminated on the N.W.
by Cape Mandhar. At 8 miles eastward of the cape is an anchoring place

806 CAPE MANDHAR— BAY OF PALOS.

off the village of Balanipa, lat. 3° 32' S., long. 119° 5' E. The anchorage is
on a projecting spit of 2J to 6 fathoms, with the village or rather the mouth
of its river, bearing N.W. three-quarters of a mile distant. Immediately
East of Cape Mandhar is Madye7ia Road, an anchorage open to the south-
ward, but there is an opening thi'ough the reef opposite the village, which
is in lat. 3° 32' S., long. 118° 5^)' E.

CAPE MANDHAR or Mandar, lat. 3° 35' S., long. 118° 54', is high land,
and on its western side is quite bold-to, but shoal water extends some dis-
tance to the southward and eastward from it. The coast trends to N. by W.
from it for 7 miles to Penamhoeang, a village facing a bay open to the west-
ward, in lat. 3" 27' S., long. 118° 51' E. There is anchorage in this bay in
12 to 20 fathoms within 300 yards of the shore, protected from the north-
ward and southward. Tijnrana Bay is 10 miles northward of Penamboeang,
and has two lofty islets on its West side, Taai Manoe, to the South of which
is the village in lat. 3° 19' S. The depth in the bay, open to the N.W., to
the East of these is from 10 to 20 fathoms. From this the coast of Celebes,
but little known and unsurveyed, trends irregularly to lat. 2° 52', where on
the northern side of Lehanie Bay are the anchorages of Tapullang, to the East
of a cape of that name, and of Kait, a mile to the westward of it. The
bank is very steep-to, and has 30 fathoms within a quarter of a mile of the
shore. Good water may be procured here. H.M.S. Virgime watered here
in 24 hours, and could have procured buffaloes and other stock by waiting
for them.

Cape William, in lat. 2° 40' S., 118° 47' E., is 12 miles northward of Cape
Kait, and is a high projecting headland, having a large bay to the eastward.
When this cape bears East 10 leagues distant, the south-easternmost of the
Little Paternosters will be seen, and should be avoided. Meinderts Shoal, of
5 fathoms, lies 7 miles W. by N. of Cape William. Mamoedya Bay, to the
eastward of Cape William, is protected from the northward by an island
called by the same name. It affords good anchorage either with the village
bearing E.S.E. a mile distant, or inside a rocky shoal, in 11 fathoms three-
quarters a mile to N.E, of the centre of the village.

The coast to the northward of this for many miles is unknown and un-
visited. The first place of which we know anything is Kajeli or Kayeli, in
lat. 1° 40' S., said to be famous for gold, sheep, &c., but anyone landing
here, or on any part of this coast, should use the greatest caution against
treachery.

The BAY of PALOS, the entrance to which is in lat. 0° 37' S., has been
examined by officers of the Dutch navy, and its several anchorages have
been surveyed by Lieuts. Van Loo, Castendyk, &c. It is a deep gulf pene-
trating the coast in a S.S.E. direction for nearly 20 miles, with a breadth of
from 4 to 6 miles, thus affording much shelter. Its shores, especially the
eastern side, appear to be thickly peopled. On the eastern side are the

CAPES TEMOEL AND DONDA. 807

anchorages or bays of Wari, 6 miles within the entrance points, Membora 10
miles farther South, and Palos at its head. The anchorage here is to the
eastward of the village, which is in lat. 0° 57' S., long. 119° 49' E. A high
table mountain lies E.S.E. from the village. Near the entrance of the bay,
on the western side, is the roadstead of Dangola, abreast of the village. A
rock is shown in the Dutch maps as lying about 13 miles N.N.W. from the
western headland of the bay, but its position is uncertain.

The northern peninsula of Celebes here separates from the main body of
the island, assuming first a northerly and then an easterly direction. The
isthmus connecting it is here very narrow, but of undetermined breadth, as
the head of the great Gulf of Tomini is very little known. Melville van
Carnbee makes its breadth to be only 10 miles.

CAPE TEMOEL or Samsa is the West extremity of a peninsula of high
land, projecting considerably from the line of coast, on the equator, in
longitude 119° 36' E. When first made from the northward it makes like
islands, as the land which connects it with the coast is lower than the hills
which form it. Captain Horsburgh states that he was all the month of
February endeavouring to round it to the northward. A shoal extends to the
northY'ard of the cape about IJ mile. About 5 miles N. by W. from the
cape lies a small round island, the South Watcher, or Zutd Wachter' oi the
Dutch, having a reef projecting from its South end, and from its N.E. end
a reef of rocks and sand extends towards the Celebes shore more than one-
third the distance between them. It is not advisable to go inside the island,
as it seems unsafe. A shoal, seen by Captain Spratley, bears S.W. \ S.
from the South Watcher and West from Cape Temoel 3^- miles distant. It
is about 2 miles in length E.N.E. and W.S.W., and deep water within a
mile of it.

The Seven Islands, in lat. 0° 32' N., are flat, low, and woody, not easily
distinguished unless when near them, except the outermost, called the North
Watcher (Noord Wachter), in about lat. 0° 36' N., long. 119° 42' E., distant
13 miles from shore, and seems not so large as the others, but may be seen
15 or 18 miles oflF. This island is surrounded to the distance of a mile on
its West, North, and East sides by a coral reef; beyond this reef the channel
between it and Pulo Pangahsia7i, 6 miles to the S.E., is clear of danger. At
15 miles E.N.E. from the North Watcher, and 3 miles off shore, the Dutch
charts mark a danger, called Rynsdroogte.

CAPE DONDA, or Dondo, which may be taken as the N. E. limit of the
strait of Makassar, is in lat. 0° 59' 30" N., long. 120° 12' E., 22^^ leagues
N.E. by N. from Cape Temoel. The mountains over this cape being very
high and bold, and having a steep declivity to the water's edge, terminating
in several bold headlands, make it diJ0B.cult to distinguish this cape. The
cape or N.W. extreme of the peninsula, according to the Dutch charts, is an
island, with a rock 2 miles westward of it. A doubtful rock is marked at 9

808 DIEECTIONS— STEAIT OF MAKASSAE.

miles to the N.W. of it. Some shoal water is said to exist to the southward
of it, but generally along this coast no soundings can be got close to the
shore, nor does there appear to be any in the bays with sandy beaches near
the Seven Islands or Cape Temoel.

DIRECTIONS for the Strait of Makassar.— The great extent of this strait
and the breadth of its channels prevent any specific directions being given
for it, or marks for avoiding its dangers. The imperfection of our knowledge
adds to these difficulties. A few general remarks must suffice.

The Little Paternoster group, as before stated, separates the strait into
two channels, of which the western one, along the Borneo coast, is 10 or 11
leagues broad, and the other about 12 leagues. There are some dangers in
the former, but still it is more frequented and preferred to the eastern side,
along the Celebes shore, as the depths are moderate, and anchorage may
be found in most parts, whereas the coast of Celebes is almost entirely
steep-to, and the offing, as far as is known, unfathomable, besides which
there are but few anchoring places, as will be seen from the foregoing
directions.

In October and November it is probable that the Celebes side is pre-
ferable, for light southerly breezes prevail here at this time, when the wind
is difi'erent on the Borneo side, and when strong southerly currents prevail
in the middle of the strait, their velocity has been found to decrease a little
as the Celebes shore is approached.

To sail along the Celebes side, and coming from the southward or west-
ward in the westerly monsoon, approach the S.E. part of Great Pulo Laut
as if you were proceeding along the Borneo side, and thence by an E. by N.
or E.N.E. course, traverse the strait and make the coast of Celebes, about
Cape Mandhar, taking care to avoid the Triangles, the Union Bank, and
the cluster of little known banks which lie in about 117° 30' E , and which
should be left to northward, avoiding also the Martaban and Laurel Shoals
to the southward. The lead should be kept going, and a good look-out
kept for these dangers. Proceeding along the coast of Celebes, northward
of Cape Mandhar, you should keep at least 2 or 3 leagues off shore in light
winds, to prevent being drifted near the shore ; but when beating to the
northward against a steady wind and lee current, you should work near the
coast in most places, particularly in the bay to the South of Cape Temoel,
where you will be out of the strength of the stream. Ships coming from the
southward in the easterly monsoon should pass between Tana Keke and the
S.W. part of Celebes, if intending to touch at Makassar.

The Borneo side is generally preferred, as above stated, until the Little
Paternosters are passed. To proceed by this route, and having passed the
S.E. part of Great Pulo Laut, the channel on either side of the Three Alike
Islands, may be chosen according to circumstances, and a course steered
towards Flat Point, avoiding the Addington Shoals.

THE NOETH COAST OF CELEBES. 809

The best track between these points with a working wind is to stand out
into 1 -5 or 1 6 fathoms, about 4 or 5 leagues from shore, and back again into
7 or 8 fathoms, about 2 or 1^- leagues distant. The bottom is generally soft
mud, but in some parts overfalls may be got from 10 to 7 fathoms in the fair
channel, about 4 or 5 leagues from shore.

The NORTH COAST of CELEBES, 320 miles long, is very little known.
The peninsula forms the Dutch Eesidentie of Menado, the chief port, at its
N.E. extremity. This peninsula varies in breadth 20 to 50 miles. A range
of mountains traverses its whole length, rising into some lofty peaks at its
East end. The North coast is steep, and the land falls more gradually
towards the Gulf of Tomini, on the South. Erom its character there are no
rivers properly so called, but numerous streams descend from the mountains.
The country is very thinly populated, not with aborigines, but with Bugis
and immigrants from Ternate and Tidore. There is little or no trade, and
that is all centred at the free port of Menado. Although most of its moun-
tains are not volcanic, yet earthquakes are frequent, and some active volca-
noes are found near Menado. Gold is procured near Gorontalo ; rice is also
grown, and excellent cordage is made near Menado.

CAPE RIVERS, 40 miles N.E. by E. from Cape Dondo, may be taken as
the N.W. Cape of Celebes. It was surveyed by Eear- Admiral Sir Edward
Belcher. It has two small islets close to it, and the land that forms it
having a regular declivity, with a gap not far from its extremity, gives the
cape an isolated appearance when first seen. To the eastward, between it
and Trees Cape, there is a projecting headland with white clifis fronting
the sea.

Slime Islet, the outermost islet off the cape, is a high rocky pile of appa-
rently upheaved grey basalt, about 80 ft. above the sea level, with a few
shrubs on it, the whole being coated and whitened by the dung of marine
birds, hence its name. Its position was established as \° 20' 24" N., long.
120° 43'. Immediately within this is another islet of similar construction,
and about 150 ft. high, and a space of half a mile, with a deep channel, in-
tervenes between it and Cape Elvers. The reefs extend southerly from those
islets as far as the eye can reach, and the coast from the cape suddenly re-
ceding into deep and lonely bays, leaves a good harbour or channel within.
The coast between it and Cape Dondo forms a concavity, and is mountainous
at a short distance inland. At 15 miles South of Cape Eivers, and in the
S.E. angle of the bay is the anchorage of Negri Baru. The tide rises at
Slime Island 9 ft.

KaUtan Island, 20 miles south-westward of Cape Eivers, is 7 miles long

I. A. ' 5 L

810 THE NOETH COAST OF CELEBES.

W-N-W. and E.S.E., and about a mile broad. Its eastern end is in lat.
1° N,, long. 120° 35' E., and 2 miles off the South side of the island, at 2
miles West from its eastern end is a sunken rock. Between Kabitan and
Cape Eivers there are some islets extending to a distance of 3i miles from
the North side of Kabitan, and three patches of sunken rock in 1° 6' N.,
120° 36' E., 1° 10' N., 120° 35' E., and the most extensive is 1° 13' N., 120°
38' E. Dondo Islets lie close to the coast, in lat. 1° 10' N.

The richness of the mountainous regions of Celebes afford many interest-
ing views along the North coast to the eastward ; here there are many cul-
tivated s]Dots both on hill and dale, which, by their bright grassy tints and
contrasts of colour exhibit an effect scarcely less interesting than that of
more civilized regions.— (Sir Edward Belcher.)

At 5 miles eastward of Cape Eivers a sandbank fills the head of a small
bay, and off the eastern point of the bay lies a small islet named Da lan-
gan. A sandbank lies a mile off the shore at 3 miles eastward of the islet.
Several small islets lie off the coast to the eastward.

Cape Randi is 40 miles eastward of Cape Eivers, and the coast here turns
to the southward for 10 miles to the anchorage of Bool, where it is said that
fresh water may be got, but some dangers project from the shore, and there
is a 3-fathom rock on which a ship has struck.

At 17 miles eastward of Bool, and within a mile of the shore, lie the two
small Radya Islets ; between these and Palelee Bay, 9 miles to the eastward,
is Lintido Point, which is high. Off Kaboe Point, the eastern point of the
bay, distant a mile, is a sunken rock, in lat. P 7' 30" N., long. 121° 53' E.
Between Kaboe Point and Huledehongo Point, 10 miles to the eastward, a
rock is marked doubtful at 3 males off shore. Between Huledebongo Point,
which has rocks extending IJ mile from it, and Bolole, a high point 8 miles
to the eastward, is Beau Bay. At 4 miles northward of Bolole Point is the
South end of a reef which thence extends 8 miles to the north- east ward to a
point in lat. 1° 15' N., long. 122° 19' E. Bolontio Point is 8 miles eastward
of Bolole Point, and 6 miles E.S.E. of it are the Damuma Islands and Eeefs,
extending to a distance of 3 miles off the shore.

Timor Bank, of 2J fathoms, is in 1° 5' N., 122° 31' E. It lies 5 miles
North of the two small Radya Isles, which lie East and "West of each other,
3 miles North of Donda Point, a rock lying in the channel between them and
the point.

Kwandang Bay is between Dondo Point and Cape Besar, 16 miles to the
eastward of it. It is very extensive and very foul. Two islets lie at 1 and
2 miles North of Cape Besar, and outside the line joining Cape Dondo and
Cape Besar are three isolated patches lying off the mouth of the bay. One
of these lies 5 miles W. by N. of Cape Dondo, another 7 miles E. by N. of
Dondo Point, and the outer one 12 miles E.N.E. of Dondo Point, and 7

MENADO. 811

miles N.W. of the outer islet oflF Cape Besar, which is in lat. 1° 1' N., long.
122° 46' E. A douhtful patch is marked at 6 miles N.E. of Cape Besar.

Bonghie is a small islet in lat. 1° 5' N., long. 122° 52' E., 8 miles off shore,
and for 25 or 30 miles eastward of this the shore should not bo approached
but with the greatest caution, on account of the imperfectly examined Josina
Reefs, which extend to a distance of 10 miles from the shore. There is some
very high ground southward of the Josina Reefs, 12 miles inland. Domisil
Bay is in long. 123° 43', and some islets extend 2 miles off its eastern point.
Ochie Bay is 8 miles eastward of this, and Moloro Islet 1^ mile off shore, 5
miles eastward of Ockie. Bolano Bangha is on a point 7 miles eastward of
Moloro Islet, and at 3 and 5 miles eastward of it are two rocks. Midway
between Bolano Bangka and Lomhok, 10 miles to the eastward, are two
islets 2 miles from the shore. Two rocks lie at 1 mile North and 2| miles
N.N.W. of Maririe Point, the western entrance point of Lombok Bay, which
is small.

From Lombok Bay the coast trends to the N-E. 16 miles to Sapa Point,
between which and Talapan Point, 9 miles to the N.E., is the entrance to
Amurang Bay, 10 miles deep. For 15 miles to the eastward of Talapan
Point the shore is bordered by rocks to 7 miles distance. Talapan Point is
in lat. 1° 20' N., long. 122° 25' E.

The District of Minahasa or Ifenado, which embraces the eastern extremity
of the peninsula for a distance of 55 miles, is a romantic region of volcanic
mountains, some of which are in a state of activity. The highest is Elolat,
6,694 feet in height, the volcano Seputan, 5,570 feet, and Mount Sempo, 4,744
feet. Cacao and coffee have been extensively cultivated, the latter of very
fine quality.

MENADO, or Manado, a Free Port, and port of call for the Netherlands
India Seam-Navigation Company's boats, is the chief place. It was con-
stituted so, with Kama on the opposite side, by the Dutch Governor-General
of the Indies, by an ordinance dated Batavia, September 28, 1848. The
Dutch first built a wooden fort here in 1655. Manado Tm, a very steep,
conical, well wooded island, apparently an old volcano, about 2,750 feet
high, is the westernmost of a cluster of islands which lie N.W. of the Bay
of Monado. It is 17 miles N.W. from the town, and is a good guide for
making it.

The whole bay of Menado, which faces the N.W., is steep-to, decreasing
suddenly from 150 fathoms to 60, 10, and 1 fathom. The anchorage should
be approached along the beach obliquely ; let go the anchor when the line at
the taffarel gives 60, veer eight shackles, and secure by stream anchor on
the reefs. This will berth you in 15 fathoms, and the operation must be
completed before 4 p.m., or the land squalls may drive you off into 150 fa-
thoms. The holding ground off the mouth of the river is best, and affords
better scope. In the months of November, December, and January, the

812 GULF OF TOMINI.

rollers are said to be terrific, but no instance has occurred of a vessel being
wrecked or driven on shore. The fort, called Fort Amsterdam, is at the
North end of the place, and is in lat. 1° 29' 25" N., long. 124° 46'. Eise of
tide 6 ft. High water, full and change, nearly noon.

North Cape, or Papahimpongang, is 17 miles north-eastward of the North
point of Menado Bay. From this to Cape Coffin or Polisan, the N.E. ex-
treme of Celebes, the distance is 13? miles. The whole of the land is com-
posed of lofty ranges, surmounted by peaks, of which Klabat is the most
conspicuous. It has been seen clearly from Ternate and Meyo, and from 60
miles to the westward.

The STRAIT of BANKA, which is formed by this coast and a cluster of
two larger and five smaller islands, is from 3 to 6 miles wide. About the
middle are two rocks, one of which is IJ mile from the South side, the
Koerier Rock, of 19 feet, the other 2 miles to the North of it. Banka Island,
the largest and easternmost of the group, is about 1,100 ft. high.

Limbe Island lies against the East end of Celebes, and forms a narrow
and somewhat intricate strait. It is about 12 miles long, and in the middle
there is an island encircled by a reef, which occasions an eddy ; and the
tides being very strong, the passage through the strait is not advisable in a
large vessel. Close on the "West side of the strait is a lofty volcano, the
lava from which has extended to the eastern point of Celebes, called by the
Dutch Verhrandehoek. To the S.W. of this peak rises the lofty peak of
Gunong Sodara, or the Ttvo Sisters, 4,300 feet high, and still farther to the
S.W. is Mount Klolat or Klahat, before mentioned. In the South part of the
narrows of Limbe Strait there is good anchorage, where ships caught in
Kema Eoad with S.E. winds may find shelter.

KEMA, a free 2^ort, and, like Menado, regularly visited by steamers, lies
at the S.E. foot of Mount Klobat. It is in lat. 1° 21' N., long. 125° 3' E.
There is a good road from it to Menado. There is good anchorage in the
road abreast of the fort, in 10 or 12 fathoms, with Mount Klobat bearing
N. 36° W., and the Two Sisters N. 28° E., about a mile off shore, the
depth thence gradually decreasing to the town, where good water and other
refreshments are to be procured. The tides rise 5 and 6 ft. about this part.

From Kema the coast trends to S.W. by S. for 25 miles to the Boentin
Isles, a cluster which extends some distance from the shore, the track being
outside of them. The coast may be approached within 3 miles, and in most
places nearer. From this to Cape Tolo the distance is 80 miles ; we have no
particulars of it beyond the Dutch maps.

The GULF of TOMINI or of Gorontalo, is the great bay which separates
the northern and eastern peninsulas of Celebes. From Cape Tolo to its
head it is 230 miles deep, and is 50 miles wide at the entrance, and 90
miles at its head. It is very little known, especially at the western part.

Gorontalo, on the North side of the gulf, 63 miles westward of Cape Tolo,

GULF OF TOLO— BOETON. 813

is the chief port of the gulf, and the residence of the Dutch Commissioner.
The country around it produces gold dust, wax, &c. Its position is given as
0° 25' N., long. 122° 50' E. by Melvill van Carnbee. There are two small
coves just within the entrance of the river on the eastern side. Into either
of these a ship may haul, and moor to the large stones that lie on the beach,
protected from the rapid stream that runs down after much rain ; or she
can anchor in mid-channel close to the fishing stakes in the entrance to the
river. The village is about 2 miles up, and abounds with refreshments of all
kinds. A red ligld is or is to be shown at night from an iron post at Goron-
talo. Pagoioat is 62 miles westward of Gorontalo, in long. 121° 55' E.; the
anchorage is within the reefs that border the shore, in 9 to 20 fathoms.
Tomini is in the N.W. bight of the gulf; we have no particulars of it.
Parigi is at the head of the gulf, with the Table Mountain, which overlooks
the head of the Bay of Palos, rising in its rear. The Togean Islands, on the
South side of the gulf, are frequented by the fishermen for trepang and tor-
toise shell, which are carefully prepared.

Cape Talabo, the eastern extremity of the eastern peninsula, is in lat. 0°
46' S., long. 123= 27' E. It is a steep headland.

The GULF of TOLO or Tomaiki is almost unknown, and there is no port
or place of any interest on its northern shore. A cluster of islands lies to
the southward of Cape Talabo, of which the principal is Bangaai. A chief
deputed by the Sultan of Ternate resides here, and a considerable native
trade is carried on from it with the shores of the Gulf of Tolo and the ad-
jacent islands in wax, tortoise shell, and trepang. Of the other islands,
Peling, Lnhuba, Banhela, &c., the charts must furnish descriptions.

Cape Nederhurgh forms the S.E. limit of the Gulf of Tomaiki, in lat. alout
2° 54' S., long. 122° 16' E. To the southward of this the coast is fronted by
numerous islands, of which Padea and Manui are the principal. The inha-
bitants of the latter construct the fishing-boats, which are sold to the baju
fishermen. Wowoni (Weywongy of the old charts), 28 miles to the south-
ward of Manui, is larger and more mountainous than the former islands,
and was formerly inhabited by a peaceable industrious people, but it has
been depopulated by the incursions of pirates.

Kendari or Vosmaer Bay, in 3° 57' S., 122° 32' E., was discovered by the
enterprising Sub-Resident M. Vosmaer, in 1831, during his examination of
these shores. He gave an interesting account of the country around it, and
of its warlike people continually "head hunting." In 1835 he established
here the elements of a permanent factory, under the hopes of creating a
trade in its neighbourhood.

BOETON or Buton Island lies off the S.E. extremity of t)ie peninsula,
and is the residence of the Sultan of this and the surrounding islands. The
Dutch Government have also an assistant resident here. The island is about
80 miles in length, and is generally of moderate height, and hilly in the

814 BOETON STEAIT.

southern parts. The South point is in about 5° 41', long. 122° 48' 30" E. The
island is composed chiefly of a coralline limestone ; the soil is not fertile, but
produces the finest cotton in the whole Indies. In the North part facing
Celebes the shore is marshy and covered with mangrove swamp. Along the
West and South coast the shore is often abrupt and rocky, except in the bays
which have generally a beach of white sand.

The East Cape of Boeton is a long, low, level point, in lat. 5° 15' S., long.
123° 16', projecting far into the sea, and having behind it, in the interior, a
piece of remarkable table land close to its western side. To the northward
of this is an extensive bay, called on the Dutch charts Kaliesusu Bay, for-
merly Dwaal Bay. In its North extreme there is a road or harbour, with
soundings of 30 to 55 fathoms at the entrance. Care is required in entering
between the shoals on the East and those fronting the islands which bound
the western side of the road, which seemed to be sheltered from the sea by
shoals projecting from the point on the East side. Eefreshments may be
procured at the village on the N.E. side of the bay. The N.E. Coast qf
Boeton appears to be safe, and may be coasted within moderate distance. A
little inland from the N.E. point of Boeton there is a small peaked hill like
a sugar-loaf. The North point is in lat. 4° 23' S., long. 123^ 4' E.

BOETON STRAIT, which separates Boeton from Moena or Muna, is about
66 miles in length, and is very narrow in fome parts, although the depth does
not appear to be less than 10 or 12 fathoms. In early times it was much
used, but now the more open passage around the South end of Boeton is
generally followed. The southern entrance is on either side Kadalua Island,
from which reefs extend to some distance.

Off the S.W. part of Boeton are two small islands. The southernmost is
Siumpu, the South Island of the old charts. According to Melvill van Carn-
bee it is in lat. 5° 40' S., long. 122° 30' E. It is of moderate height, formed
of stratified rock, and not well made out in coming from the westward. A
coral patch, with 3 fathoms, lies with the East end of Siumpu bearing N.N.E.
and the South point of Boeton N.E. by E. A E. A reef of black rocks was
reported in 1870 as lying 2 miles North of the West end of Siumpu. Middle
Island, a small island, lies between Sompoe and Kadalua, or JVorth Island, 7^
miles to the northward. Kadalua should not be approached within a mile,
as sunken rocks exist off its South, West, and N.E. points.

(The groups of islands to the south-eastward of Boeton, and those scat-
tered over the Banda Sea, will be described hereafter.)

Boeton, the chief place on Boeton, is just inside the strait on the East side,
in lat. 5° 28' S., long. 122° 36' E. It is the residence of the Sultan, and some
Dutch officials are to be found here. Poultry, vegetables, &c., may be got.
The tides are moderate, and will assist a vessel in drifting through in light
winds, and convenient and good anchorage may often be got. A shoal pro-

GULF OF BONl. 815

jects a little way from the N.W. end of Boeton, and, when clear of it, the
channel leading out takes an easterly direction, passing between Wowoni (or
Weywonij) and Boeton. The strait is not made out from the northward
until you are up with it ; a remarkable rock, hollow below, with bushes on
it, lies against the Boeton shore ; both sides of the strait rise perpendicularly
from the sea.

Passing along the S.E. end of Boeton, if the wind is westerly, keep the
Boeton coast on board to the East point, to prevent being set over toward
Wangi Wangi and the Tukan Bissi Isles by southerly currents and light
airs, which frequently prevail in the offing. It is said that the ship Noord-
heck was wrecked on a reef which lies 15 miles S.E. of the East cape, in lat.
5° 30'. Care is also required when between the latitudes of 6° 39' and 6°
31', as Penguin Reef, with as little as 9 ft. water on it, leaves a channel only
4 miles wide between it and the S.E. coast of Boeton.

Mcena, Muna, or Pangasanc, the island westward of Boeton, is 50 miles
long North and South, and is subject to Boeton. Its chief town is in the
interior, but its only port is at the North end, called Tiora, or Tiwora, which
gives its name to the strait between it and the southern part of this penin-
sula of Celebes.

Tioro Strait is intricate and unknown to European navigators. The shoals
and islands are very numerous, and there are no inducements for taking it,
especially in a large vessel.

Kabeina, or Camhyna, is a large island to the westward of the South end
of Moena. It rises steeply and rugged from its western extremity towards
a high peak in its centre, which is about 4,000 ft. high, lat. 5° 19' S., long.
121° 54' E. The island is about 12 miles in diameter, and off its South and
S.E. ends there are one or two small islands, with rocks 2 or 3 miles S.E. of
them. About 2 or 3 miles from its West end lie three islands, very low,
with breakers projecting 2 or 3 miles South from them. A rock also lies IJ
mile off shore, S.W. of the central peak. In coming from or to the Strait of
Salayar, these rocks should be guarded against.

The GULF of BONI separates the two southern peninsulas of Celebes, and
is 90 miles wide at its entrance, and extends 150 miles northward. It has
been visited by Sub-Resident Vosmaer, in 1831, but had not been circum-
navigated till James Brooke, Esq., afterwards the Eajah Sir J. Brooke,
sailed around it in his yacht the Royalist, between November 29th, 1839, and
May 1st, 1840. In the first chapters of his interesting work, published in
1848, a narrative of this cruise is given, and affords much information.

CAPE LASSA, or Berak, is the S.W. point of the gulf, and the northern
point of the Strait of Salayar. It is in lat. 5° 36' S., long. 120" 29' E. It is
18 miles eastward of Boelecomba, mentioned on page 802, ante. Palunrueh,
or Balanranga, an island 400 ft. high, is 27 miles due North of Cape Lassa;
off it are several coral reefs. The village of Songi is up a river abreast of

816 POINT PATIRO-CAPE MARASANGA.

this. The course to the northward was among numerous reefs and shcals,
threading the way with some difficulty. Of the outlying known dangers,
Boni Rock is 20 miles N. by E. of Cape Lassa. ByMorps Bank, 10 miles in
extent E. and W., is nearly 30 miles N.E. by N. of Cape Lassa. Limpogeh
Island, in lat. 4° 55' S., long. 120° 45' E., is small, and has a sunken rock 2
miles South of it, and numerous isolated dangers between it and Lamleina
Reef, 21 miles to the N.N.W. of it.

Point Patiro, lat. 4° 39' S., was passed half a mile distant; off it is a
patch of white sand and coral, the channel being inside it ; off this cape the
flood comes from the South, the ebb North, but not strong, though the rise
is considerable.

Boni, the chief town of the district, is two hours journey inland from
Bajue, or Badyoa, which is 10 miles W.N.W. of Cape Patiro. The State of
Boni, once the most powerful in Celebes, presented the curious spectacle of
an aristocratic elective monarchy. Palette, 1 1 miles North of Point Patiro,
is wooded, and superior in elevatioii to the adjoining coast. Between these
points the Lambeina Reef extends off shore to a distance of 10 miles; a
small islet is situated on its eastern part. Chinnana River is 7 miles North
of Palette. The town is some distance up the stream, which drains some
large lakes, the only ones known in Celebes. Peneki Bay is 14 miles north-
ward of the mouth of the Chinnana River ; the coast here is a low mangrove
flat.

Cape Marasanga or Siiva, in lat. 3° 44' is low and covered with light
green trees, but beyond this the scenery changes its character, and the low
shore is replaced by lofty hills and wooded mountains. Mount Latimojoyig
crowning all. The whole of the coast South of Cape Marasanga is em-
barrassed by coral reefs of unknown extent. The district of Luwu, which
surrounds the head of the gulf, is one of the most ancient of the Bugis States.
It is a mountainous region, but the shores are more clear of outlying shoals.
Jenemaiji, or Red Water Point, in lat. 3° 18' S., is so named on account of a
discoloured stream which discharges itself near it. From this the coast runs
N.W. 20 miles to the town of Palopo, at the head of a bay in the N.W. part
of the gulf. It is the capital of Luwu, but is only a miserable collection of
300 houses. At 12 miles N. by E. from Cape Dyenee, are two sunken
dangers, and N.N.E., at the distance of 15 miles, is another.

Beraoe, or Burn, at the head of the gulf, in lat. 2° 41' S., long. 120° 41' E.,
seems to be the chief place of the neighbourhood. Two sunken rocks lie to
a distance of 2 miles from shore, at 2 miles S.W. of Beraoe. In the N.E.
angle of the gulf is the town and river of Usu. It lies on the North side of
a bay, the southern side of which is entirely distinct in character from the
northern, the former being bold and abrupt, the latter an alluvial plain. Ptdo
Paloch (or separated mountain) is an island off the South point of Usu Bay.
It is bold and wooded, and divided from the main by a moderate channel.

SALAYAE OR SALETEE STRAIT. 817

At 5 miles S.W. of it a doubtful rock is marked. The scenery of all this
coast to the southward is most picturesque, bold wood-covered hills, with
high mountains behind. Cape Tahako is in lat. 3° 20' S. Cape Susua, lat.
3° 27', is bold and prominent, as are two others, Lihnandala and Lahekara, to
the southward ; the coast is very bold-to. Midway between Capes Labuan-
data and Labekara is a reef 3 miles off shore, Batu Lakie Read, a slightly
projecting headland, 18 miles S.E. of Cape Labuandata, has a rock marked
doubtful at 3 miles S.S.E. of it. Cape Bungie, in lat. 3' 54' S., is a project-
ing promontory, in the bay northward of which is the small island of Roko.
Off its western side is another small islet. In 4° 8' S. is Padamarang Island^
5 miles in diameter. Lambasina Islet lies a mile West of its N.W. point, and
a second islet, W.N.W. 6 miles from its N.W. point, has a rock off each end
and another, 5 miles W.S.W. from it. Within Padamarang Island, is Kongka
Bay, nearly filled by reefs. Maniang Met, 5 miles S.E. of the S.E. point of
Padamarang, and 4 miles off shore, forms the outer western point of the
channel leading up to Pasatue, a village at the head of Kongka Bay.

The Minkoka District, the Baaikonka of the Dutch, occupies the head of this
bay. The country is attractive, and partially cleared. The mountains sink
to a strip of aUuyial plain near the sea. The people resemble the Bugis in
person, but are a separate race.

Cape Takarie is 36 miles South of Padamarang Island. There is a small
bay just northward of it. Sunken rocks lie 1 or 2 miles off shore at inter-
vals for 15 miles northward of Cape Takarie, and 11 miles westward of it is
the North end of a reef, in lat. 4° 42' S., long. 121° 17' E., which thence
extends 7 miles to the southward. Bassa Island is low, 15 miles southward
of Cape Takarie, rocks lie to 2 miles W.N.W. and to 8 miles N.N.W.
from it.

Cape Boenging Katto, the S.E. extreme of the gulf, is in lat. 4° 55', long.
121° 45' E., and is 15 miles East of Bassa. A suriken rock is reported 7 miles
S.W. by W. from it.

SALAYAR or SALEYER STRAIT, between Cape Lassa, on the S.W.
side of the Gulf of Boni and the North end of the island of Salayar, is a
great highway for the commerce between the Moluccas and the Java Sea.
Several islands lie in the strait, and in the old charts are called North,
Middle, and South Islands. Sarontang, a small islet, lies 5 miles S.S.E. of
Cape Lassa, and should not be approached within a mile on its South side.
Lukan Lovoeh is another islet, 5 miles S.W. of Cape Lassa. There appears
to be a clear channel 3 miles wide between these islands, but the channel
generally used is 5 miles wide to the southward of Sarontang, ^between it
and Boang Island. This latter island is 1^ mile in diameter, and lies 2 miles
from the North point of Salayer Island, the channel between being dan-
gerous because of sunken rocks.

I. A. 5 m

818 SALAYAE ISLAND.

Dangers in Salayer Strait. — At 5 miles westward of Lukan Loweh is a
6^-fathom patch, 4 miles off shore. A sunken rock lies between this and the
shore. Eanlcaj), a 4-fathom patch, lies 8 miles West of Lukan Loweh.

The Mansfield Shoal, in lat. 5° 43^' S., long. 120° 13^ E., lies to the
westward of the strait, is not very well known, and is dangerous. It is
extensive, and lies about 18 miles W.N.W. of the North end of Salayar;
Sarontang, just seen from the mast-head, about E. by N. f N. ; and
Boelecomba, or Peaked Hill, on Celebes, N. by "W. It is said to have on
some parts not more than 3 to 3| fathoms, with deeper soundings up to the
Celebes shore, but none to the southward.

A 7-fathom patch, probably the same as Amhoina Shoal, which was reported
as dangerous, lies 8 miles eastward of Mansfield Shoal.

To sail through the Strait, intending to pass outside of the Mansfield Shoal,
which is the best track with a S.W. wind, keep out of soundings, about 16
or 18 miles from the Celebes coast, when Bonthein Peak bears between
N. i E. and N. by W. ; and when the North end of Salayer is discerned, by
keeping its extreme point East, but nothing to the southward of this bearing,
you will clear the shoal to the southward. Steer direct for Sarontang Island,
and pass it well to southward. Along the Celebes coast, inside the Mans-
field Shoal, thex^e are moderate depths for anchoring.

SALAYAR ISLAND is about 40 miles long, North and South, but is
narrow. It is very populous, and is a dependency of Celebes. The people
are industrious, and raise considerable produce. The teak tree has been
planted, and flourishes. It is said that this island is the division of the
climate systems of the eastern and western parts of the Archipelago (see
page 20 ante), the rainy season being reversed, and by which they conform
to the West with the north-westerly, and in the East with the south-easterly
monsoon.

The North Point of Salayar is in lat. 5° 47' S., and the land over it being
rather higher than the islands adjacent, and joined to the main body of the
islands by a low neck, makes the North point appear isolated when first
made either from the eastward or from the westward, a fact that should be
attended to in making for the strait. There is a large village on the N.W.
side of the point, but with shoals and rocks stretching out from it, conse-
quently it is a very bad anchorage. Pasi, or Hoog Island, an island of con-
siderable length, lies on the S.W. side of Salayar, parallel with and a short
distance from it.

In the northern part of the strait, dividing it from Salayar, and on the
eastern side, is a kampong and fort, abreast of which is good anchorage in
10 to 12 fathoms. There is a reef around the North end of Hoog Island,
and to the West of it is the Whale or Souteland Reef, about a quarter of a
mile in extent, with 12 ft. on it, and 4 J fathoms close-to, and reported by
the master of the Evelyn to lie about 4 miles W.N.W. from the North end

THE POSTILIONS. 819

of Pasi Island, otherwise known as Hog Island. From the shoalest part of
Whale Shoal the North end of Pulo Salayer bears N.N.E. ; and the S.W.
extremes of Pasi Island and Pulo Salayer are in line. It is of undeter-
mined extent, but is about 9 miles West of Hoog Island. A 2-fathom patch
lies 5 miles off the West coast of Salayar, in lat. 6° 18' S.

The South Point of Salayar is in about lat. 6° 27' S., long. 120° 28' E., and
is surrounded by an extensive reef. At 3 miles westward of it is Baoloeang,
a small island, with a reef projecting far off from its N.E. point, but leaving
a deep channel, 35 to 38 fathoms, between it and Salayar.

The Tiger, or Tyger Islands of the old charts, lie to the southward of the
Gulf of Boni, and southward of the track eastward from Salayer Strait. The
steamer Hertog Bernard, when steaming to the eastward of Salayar, in 1871,
in search of the American whaler Xantho, stranded near an island group
which appears on old charts under the name of the Tyger Islands. This
group consists of a large number of coral islands, mostly high, surrounded
by far extending reefs, and visible from on deck to a distance of from 2 to 3
geographical miles. The largest and most north-easterly, named North
Tiger Island, lies in 6° 21' S., and 121° 3' E. from Greenwich. From North
Tiger Island, a chain of reefs stretch out S.S.E. to Kala Tua ; to the East
of these reefs is no anchoring ground ; they rise up steep from a depth of
100 fathoms. The wreck of the Xantho was found on the eastern side of
these dangers, and lies in 6° 30' S., and 121° 17' E. from Greenwich. The
commander of the Xantho has reported that to the East of the reefs a safe
passage exists between Kala Tua and Post-horse Island, in a N.N. Westerly
direction.

Tamioeloengan, or Tamhelaoeang , a little known island, lies 8 miles S.S.W.
of the South point of Salayar, and is about 3 miles long ; 2 miles farther
South is the North end of Roesah, or Roessa, another undescribed island,
with a peak at its North end. Between this small island and the low islet
of Sisir, 17 miles to S.S.E., and described on page 773, there are several
reefs, with probably clear channels between them. Mamalahkie, described
on page 773, is 10 miles westward of Eoesah. These islands were formerly
marked as the Tonyn or Tonin Islands, but they are not now known by that
name. The islands to the southward and eastward are alluded to on pages
772, 773 ante.

The whole of these islands and groups which lie between the Java and
Floris Seas, do not appear to have been examined for many years, and,
therefore, the very imperfect accounts we have of them can be of little
service.

There are two groups still to be mentioned, which lie to the westward of
those just described, to the North of Sumbawa.

The POSTILIONS lie about 70 miles S.S.W. of the S.W. point of Celebes,
and the same distance North from Sanjeang, off the East end of Sumbawa

820 THE MOLUCCA ISLANDS.

(page 764). They consist of an extensive range of low islands extending 36
miles in a S.E. and N.W. direction, and are almost entirely unknown. The
North island is in lat. 6° 31' S., long. 118° 42' E. The N.W. island has a
small lump in the centre. The easternmost limit of the islands is in lat.
6° 48' S., long. 119° 12^ E. There is apparently a safe channel between
them and the Great Paternosters, but little is known of it, and a series of
islands extends for 60 or 70 miles S.W. of the South end of the Postilions.

At about 40 miles West of their south-westernmost point is the N.E. end
of a more extensive range, the Great Paternosters.

The GREAT PATERNOSTERS consist of several groups of coral islands,
mostly low and wooded, extending nearly N.E. and S.W. 110 or 120 miles.
They are but little known, and should be avoided till they are better de-
scribed. Many of them are surrounded by reefs and sboal coral patches.
The S.W. isles are about 6° 56' S., long. 117° 5' E. The N.E. Paternoster
is in about lat. 6° 36' S., long. 118° 17 E. Near the N.E. Paternosters, in
lat. 6° 30' S., and long. 118° 18' 30" E., the water was observed to be dis-
coloured, and a coral reef supposed to exist.

THE MOLUCCA ISLANDS.

The designation of Moluccas has been extended to all the islands between
Celebes and New Guinea, but properly it should be confined to the chain of
five islands running North and South on the West side of Halmahera or
Jilolo, having Ternate to the North and Batchian on the South. These
islands are the native country of the Clove — a spice considered to be of such
value in the middle ages, that the search for it was one of the chief incen-
tives to the first voyages of Columbus, which, in addition to giving us the
knowledge of a new world, have also attracted a navigation which has made
known to us regions equal in extent to that new world. These small islands,
unattractive in themselves, have therefore played an important part in the
progress of navigation and hydrography.

The Moluccas, as now understood, are claimed by the Dutch, who hold
the sovereignty over the whole of them with greater or less power. They
are divided into — 1. The Residentie van Amhoina, which embraces that island,
the West part of Ceram, Buru, and the neighbouring islands ; 2. The Resi-
dentie van Banda, comprising that small group, the East part of Ceram, and
all the groups to the South and S.E. ; 3. The Residentie van Ternate, em-
bracing the three Sultanats of the Moluccas or Spice Islands proper, the
islands of Jilolo or Halmahera, a portion of Celebes, and the islands to the
S.W. of them. The details of the area and population of these several pro-
vinces was given for the first time with any accuracy by that accomplished

THE XULLA ISLES. 821

hydrographer Melvill van Carnbee, in the " Moniteur des Indes " for 1846-9.
The interesting figures there given must be the guide to those who require
further information.

This section will be a description of the islands and passages as far as
they are known, commencing with the westernmost. The authorities for
these are, besides the numerous notices collected and issued by the Dutch
commission for the improvement of the Indian Sea charts, the surveys of
Lieut. Gregory ; the voyage of M. M. Modera, S. Miiller, «S:c., in the Dutch
corvette Triton, in 1828; that of M. Kolff in the Doerga, in 1825-6; Freycinet,
in 1822-5 ; Dumont d'Urville in the Astrolabe and Zelee, in 1837-40, when a
large number of important observations were made ; Sir Edward Belcher's
voyage of the Samarang, 1844, Capt. Owen Stanley, E..N., 1889; Mr. A. S.
Bickmore, 1865; Voyage of the Challenger, 1874, &c., &c. Besides these,
the works of Temminck, Eysinga, &c., have been consulted, and many par-
ticulars are extracted from our old Oriental Navigator of 1806.

The XULLA ISLES, a group of four or more islands to the eastward of
the eastern peninsula of Celebes, do not appear to be at all known, as no
good account is to be found of them. Their name is apparently given by the
Portuguese, and is sometimes written Zidla or Soela.

Xulla Taliabo, the westernmost, is high and bold, with but few inhabitants.
Its north-western point is marked as in lat. 1° 45' S., long. 124° 19', from
whence it extends eastward for 60 miles, and is separated from the next
island by the strait of Sapaloeloe or Surinam.

Xulla Mangola, the next to the eastward, is generally high, especially at
its N.W. end, where it is lofty and rugged. It is about 50 miles long. Off
its East end is the smallest of the group, Lifa Matoelah or Ztssamatula, sepa-
rated by a narrow channel. It is moderately high and level, having along
its North and East sides several white cliffs, which are conspicuous at a con-
siderable distance. The S.E. point is in lat. 1° 51' S., long. 126° 30' E.,
and off it is an isle which forms like a saddle in coming from the northward.

Xulla Bessi, the southernmost, is of considerable height, and may be seen
12 or 13 leagues off, and has a level appearance when seen at a distance.
It is about 30 miles long, and its S.E. point is in about lat. 2° 28' S., long.
126° 2' E. It is well cultivated and inhabited, producing much wax and
honey. There is a village, Sabi, near the S.E. point, where a ship may pro-
cure some refreshments. There is a Dutch resident here.

Sannana Bag, on the N.E. coast of Xulla Bessi, was surveyed by Lieut.
J. C. G. Brennwala. It is a good harbour, half a mile in diameter, almost
surrounded by coral reefs, with a narrow entrance facing the East, with 7 to
1 1 fathoms in it. Immediately opposite the entrance is a building called the
large mosque, which, bearing West, would lead through. At a short distance
North of this is the Fort de Verwachting, which is W. by N. ^ N. from the
entrance, and in lat. 2° 2' S., long. 125° 56' E. Inside the harbour the

822 GEEYHOUND STRAIT— BOURO.

depths are from 7 to 14 fathoms, clay bottom, and good anchorage in the
centre, with the fort bearing N. 67° W., the great mosque West, and the
little mosque on the South side S. 40° W. Tides rise 9 ft.

The channel between Bessi and Mangola is about 3 or 4 miles wide be-
tween the coral reef which extends North of the former island, with an-
chorage in from 30 to 35 fathoms near the Mangola shore, which is bold to
approach. The currents are strong in the channel, and influenced by the
tides. In coming through from the eastward, keep on the eastern side until
near the small island West of the passage, when you may haul to the
southward.

Greyhound Strait leads past the western end of Taliabo. The western
coast of this island trends nearly North and South about 13 miles, having a
haycock island, Seho, in lat. 1° 58', close to its S.W. point, and another
island off its N.W. point; from the latter, several islands lie near the
Taliabo shore, to the N.E. and eastward. Masunie or Middle Island, which
separates the straits into two channels, bears West 9 miles from the North
island above mentioned. It is low, swampy, and covered with trees, and
surrounded by shoal water.

A sunlcen rock lies at 2 miles westward of the South end of the western
islet, lying off the N.W. extreme of Taliabo, and the Qmniet touched on a
shoal of 1| fathom, lying 3 miles south-westward of the sunken rock. From
the shoal Pulo Massuni bore N. 59° W. ; Pulo Lembau, E.N.E. ; and Pulo
Seho S. 28° E. There are 3 fathoms water on the edge of the reef, S.E. of
Pulo Massuni, and it is 3 miles East of the eastern side of the island.

BOURO, Boeroe (Dutch), or JBuru, a large and lofty island, is 42 miles
south-eastward of Xulla Bessi. It is 80 miles long by 50 in its greatest
breadth, and is therefore one-half larger than Bali or Lombok, but compared
with them is of but little value. It is a vast mass of mountainous land,
rising to the height of from 7,000 to 8,000 ft., the most elevated in the Mo-
lucca Sea. Mount Tomahoe, 8,530 ft. above its N.W. point, is very lofty.
Cape Balatetto or Palpatu, the N.W. cape, is in lat. 3° 6' S., long. 126° 4' E.
The West coast trends about South for 32 miles to Cape LisateJce, 6 miles to
S.W. of which is a roch awash. The southern coast curves irregularly E.S.E.
and E.N.E. for 88 miles, and then northward toward Cayeli Bay.

Cayeli or Cajeli Bay, on the N.W. coast, is the chief place of the island.
Fort Defensie, in the S.W. part of the bay, according to Admiral Sir E,
Belcher, is in lat. 3° 22' 49" S., long. 127^ 6' 27" E. The southern and
western shores are fronted by an extensive coral reef to the distance of about
a mile, and on the eastern side lies a large coral reef, which extends nearly
one-third across the bay.

There is a rugged mount or double peak, two very high conical hills
inland, called the Mother and Daughter, which from the sea appear as one.
The Daughter is only seen separate when well into the depth of the bay.

AMBLAU- MANIPA. 823

The eastern side is streaked with white, by reason of its bare rocks. It lies
on the S.E. side of the depth of Cayeli Bay, 4 J miles S.E. J S. from the fort,
and is an excellent mark for rounding the eastern head from the S.E. ; as
long as its head can be seen above the trees at the eastern point, the ship-
ping will be perfectly clear of danger. The instant it begins to rise, after
passing the point, a course may be shaped for the North point, which
apparently shows as the left of an island on the N.W. shore. When in
mid-channel steer with the town off the port cathead until Mother bears
S.E. by S. Then steer South for the fort ; shorten sail when about 1 mile
from it, and anchor at the first cast 25 fathoms, bottom mud, good holding
ground.

The limit of danger, westerly, is the two eastern turrets of the fort in
line. Sir Edward Belcher found soundings in every part of the bay, both
going in and coming out ; on the latter occasion it never exceeded 50 fathoms
until he hauled up E.N.E. Entering, it ranged from 64, 42, to 60 gravel,
anchored with the fort, South, Eed Island, or Pulo Papeoa, East. The
latter is IJ mile E. by N. from the fort, and behind it is a landlocked an-
chorage in 6 fathoms, entered between the reefs North of the island, the
channel first trending S.E., then South. H.M.S. Sulphur was here in August
and September, 1840. Sir Edward says that Bouro or Cayeli Bay possesses
great advantages over Amboina as regards supplies of poultry, eggs, water,
and wood. The harbour is also snug, sheltered from the monsoons, and
less troubled with the diurnal rains of Amboina. Deer are plentiful in the
interior. A great variety of beautiful woods, adapted for cabinet purposes,
and now (1868) greatly appreciated, are also plentiful, including the most
valuable ebony of these seas. The cajeput oil is principally obtained from
this island and sent to Amboina. The Dutch resident was much perplexed
at the frigate's visit.

It is high water, at full and change, at 1'' 32" ; rise of tide 4^ ft.

Amblau or Amblauw, a small island 6 miles in extent, lies 6 miles off the
S.E. end of Bouro. Its East end is in lat. 3° 50' S., long. 127° 17' E. A reef
of rocks is reported to lie in the strait, but its position is not known.

Manipa is a lofty island, 2,100 ft. high, midway between Bouro and the
western peninsula of Ceram, its centre being in lat. 3° 17' S., long.^l27° 34'
E. The best channel is the Manipa Passage, between it and Bouro. It is
about 16 miles wide, is without soundings, and clear of danger. It is the
passage generally used in going from Bouro to Ceram or Amboina. At 1^
mile West from the West extreme of Manipa is the small islet of Suangi,
327 ft. high, in lat. 3° 16' 30" S., long. 127^ 29' E. On the South side of
Manipa is the Dutch fort, off which, and within a small islet, there is an-
chorage close to the shore. Kelang is 2,400 ft. high, and lies to the N.E. of
Manipa, being separated from it by a safe channel 3 miles wide, through
which the tides or currents set very strongly at times with great noise and

824 ISLAND OF AMBOINA.

strong ripplings. Babi is low, and separated by a narrow but closed pas-
sage from the N.E. Cape Kelang. To the East it is separated from the
West point of Ceram, Tanjong Hatan, by a narrow passage called the Nas-
soutoscke Gat.

AMSOINA or Amboyna, a free port, is, as before observed, the seat of the
Dutch Government of the adjacent islands, although it is not very populous,
Melvill van Carnbee giving its total inhabitants as 29,592 in 1841, of which
about 9,000 live in the chief town. They are a brown complexioned race,
who have lost many of the distinctive characteristics they were found to have
when the island was first discovered. The Malay is now the universal
language, and a large proportion of them have been well educated and cared
for by the Dutch Government, so that they are allowed to be the most moral,
well conducted, and peaceable people of the whole Archipelago.

The island is 29 miles long E.N.E. andW.S.W., and consists of two por-
tions, nearly separated by a narrow and low isthmus, across which the Dutch
commenced and nearly succeeded in cutting a canal. The northern and
largest portion is called by the natives Sttoe or Situ, and the southern pe-
ninsula, on which is the capital of the Moluccas, is Leitimor.

" Amboyna is a beatiful island, nearly divided in two by a broad sea inlet
running between high hills, covered with forest or yellow grass, and along
the shores are Malay villages, nearly hidden by cocoa groves. Fourteen
miles up, on the South side, is the town of Amboyna, the bay continuing 6
miles farther, narrowing just above the town, and again broadening into a
lake*like sheet of water, bounded by soft and lovely vegetation at the foot of
low wooded hills. We anchored almost alongside of a pier crowded with
Dutch soldiers and Malays, excited at our arrival. Though the town from
the anchorage looked picturesque enough with trees and palms springing up
above the roofs, we were rather disappointed, as it by no means looked Kke
the large place we had heard it was ; but when on shore we found it was
very much larger than Banda." — (Lord George Campbell : Log Letters from
the Challenger.)

The island is composed of primitive and volcanic rocks, and, like many
other productions, the clove cultivation is peculiarly adapted to the disin-
tegrated soil of volcanic origin. The little energy of the inhabitants, about
30,000 in number, is almost exclusively devoted to the growth of this staple
product, as the island is not much cultivated in other respects. The total
produce of the clove is about 500,000 lbs. to 600,000 lbs. per annum. This
industry, however, is not now so well cared for, since the soil of other lands
has been found suitable for clove cultivation. Shells of rare species are also
much collected and exported. The rocky and hilly portions of the island do
not attain a very great elevation, Gunong Salhoetoe, in the N.E. part of
Hitoe, being 4,010 ft., and Gunong Latoea, in the S.W. part, 3,363 ft. The
highest points of Leitimor are Gunong Nbnna, 1,972 ft., 2 miles S.S.W. of

THE BAY OF AMBOINA. 825

the city, and Grunong Ilorie, 2,030 ft., 3 miles E.S.E. of the same. The
southern peninsula is traversed by some good roads.

Winds, ^-c. — From a meteorological register kept at Amboina, extending
over a period of four years ending 1874, it would appear that the N.W.
monsoon commences about November and lasts till April ; but only during
January, February, and part of March do the winds blow steadily, and then
between North and N.W. The S.E. monsoon blows from May to the begin-
ning of September, after which it becomes variable to the end of November,
In December the wind is variable from North through West to South, and
in March and April from N.W. to S.AV.

Rain falls in every month of the year, the driest being from October to
April inclusive, with an average of 13 days rain and 8 inches fall for each of
these months. The other months average 21 days rain, with a fall of 27
inches. The mean temperature for the whole year ranges from 74° to 86°
Fahrenheit.

Earthquakes occur from December to June.

Tanjong Wawolle, the western extreme, is in lat. 3° 40^' S., long. 127°
54' 30" E. ; off it are three islands called the Drie Breeders (three brothers),
or Pulo Tega, between all of which and also between them and the point,
there are safe passages. The North shore of Amboina is clear of danger
throughout, and the channel between it and Ceram, 4 or 5 miles wide, is
subject to strong but irregular currents. Off the N.W. point of Amboina is
a small island, Pulo Potnlo, and from this to the S.E. extreme of the northern
part of the island the distance is 8 miles in a S. by W. direction. Bagualla
Bay indents the eastern face of the island, and at its head is the low isthmus.
There are numerous shoals in it, and it is entirely open to the East.

The BAY of AMBOINA, which trends to N.E. by E., enters between
Tanjong Allang on the West and Noesanive on the East ; they are steep-to,
and bear East and West from each other 6 miles apart. About 3 cables'
lengths S.S.E. from the latter point there is a narrow bank of soundings of
from 15 to 50 fathoms, on which a ship might anchor during a calm. It is
detached from the shore.

Inside the S.E. point is a slender bay, called formerly Portuguese Bay, but
there are no soundings to be obtained at a cable's length from the shore on
either side except in the upper part near to the narrows.

AMBOINA or Amboyna, the capital of the Moluccas, is 8 miles up the
bay on its southern shore, or about 15 miles from Point Allang. The town
is regularly built, clean, and neat, with wide and regular streets. It has a
governor's palace and a long esplanade, planted with nutmeg trees, termi-
nating at Fort Victoria, at the N.E. end of the town.

The houses are built in the Dutch style, but chiefly of one story, on account
of the frequency of earthquakes. The Chinese quarter, which is extensive,

I. A. 5 N

826 AMBOINA.

is in the western part, and has a very large and well stocked market, fur-
nishing most of the luxuries as well as the necessaries of the climate, but
the people do not seem to be so industrious as they are in other parts of the
world.

" The Dutch Government have a large coal depot here. One day we pro-
ceeded farther up the harbour for the purpose of taking in a supply, lying
alongside a jetty during the operation ; it was, however, a slow and tedious
process, for no inducement could make the coolies get in anything like a
reasonable quantity per day. It was a pretty place, and as we had the ad-
ditional facilities of lying alongside a pier, many excursions were taken. On
completing our coaling we returned to our first anchorage off the town. The
passage down the harbour afforded one of the most astonishing and beauti-
ful sights to behold. The bottom was absolutely hidden by a continuous
series of coral sponges, actiniae, and other marine productions of varied
forms and brilliant colours. The waters were clear as crystal, and the
depth varying from 8 to 10 fathoms."— (W. J. J. Spry, E.N., Cruise of
H.M.S. Challenger.)

This citadel was built by the Portuguese, and, besides the military quar-
ters, contains storehouses for the produce of the clove plantations. A wooden
jetty extends from the wharf in front of the fort, off which is the usual an-
chorage. The town contains about 8,000 or 9,000 people, but seems to be
declining. The summer-house on the S.W. angle of Fort Victoria, the ob-
servatory of Sir Edward Belcher, was found by him to be in lat. 3° 41' 30"
S., long. 128° 10' 18" E. corrected), which agrees closely with the observa-
tions of Lieutenant H. A. Meijer, of the Dutch royal navy, who surveyed
the bay in 1840. A survey of the island was made in 1842 by Lieutenant
H. van Guffron.

The bay, as before observed, has very deep water along the middle, for
at between 3 and 4 cables' lengthsof the jetty there are 60 fathoms water.
The bay here is about 2 miles wide. There is anchorage abreast of the
fort, in case a ship is driven from the anchorage to the south-westward, off
tbe town.

The best time for entering the bay in the westerly monsoon is in the morn-
ing between daybreak and 8 or 9 a.m. ; and by keeping a N.E. by E. course
from between the heads nearly in mid-channel, you will generally carry a
breeze up to the anchorage off the town. During the night light variable
airs or calms generally prevail, accompanied with an outset, which renders
the progress up the bay tedious and difficult, for ships are liable to be drifted
about by the eddies, or probably out of the bay after getting half-way up
with a favourable breeze. There is, however, no danger to be apprehended
during the night, for although a ship may seem to be drifting toward the
beach when calm, yet the depth of the water allows a ship to be set parallel
to the shore close to. Strong gales are often experienced in the westerly

AMBOINA. 827

monsoon, about full and change of the moon, which are generally preceded
by a great swell tumbling into the bay.

In the easterly mo7isoo7i, as the current frequently sets strongly past the
points of the bay to the westward, a ship coming from this direction ought
to work up in the offing until Noesanive Point bears N.N.E. or N. by E.
She should then steer round it pretty close, keeping along the southern shore
of the bay at a moderate distance under low sail ; for the sudden gusts of
wind which come off the high land sometimes might endanger the masts with
light sails set.

The anchorage is off the town or the fort, in about 20 fathoms, at 2 cables'
lengths off shore. It is customary to run the stream cable on shore, and for
this purpose heavy anchors are already laid down, to which cables can be
attached at low water. The edge of the shoal off the town of Amboina is
well marked by fishing stakes, which may also be seen in many parts of the
bay. H.M.S. Challenger anchored in 24 fathoms 1 cable W. by N. from
the pier.

Water, fruit, and vegetables may be got, but stock cannot be depended on
at all times. The watering place is opposite to the town 1^ mile distant, but
there is another in the Inner Harbour.

" Beef is indifferent in quality and expensive, being 2s. per lb. ; fowls,
Is. 6d. each ; ducks, 3s. to 4s. each ; eggs, 2s. 6d. per dozen. Fish is plen-
tiful and cheap, but fruit is scarce.

** The coaling wharf is at Tanjong Mungayeu, a little more than a mile
south-westward of the town pier, and there are 4 fathoms alongside it.
Ships intending to coal at the wharf should steer in with their heads to the
south-eastward, and at half a cable's length off the wharf end drop the port
anchor in 10 fathoms, hauling alongside by means of the wooden piles placed
at convenient distances along the shore. The red buoy to the north-eastward
of the wharf is lightly moored, and intended only for the off-fasts of the
small steamers frequenting the port. Large vessels will therefore find it
necessary to have their stream anchors to windward, as the wharf is slightly
built, and the N.E. wind presses them strongly against it. A large quan-
tity of coal is stored here, principally from Newcastle-on-Tyne, the price
being £3 per ton. Labour can be obtained at a Dutch rupee, of Is. 8d. per
day, but only about 60 tons a day is shipped.

" There is a monthly mail-steamer from Makassar or Sourabaya, which
touches at Koepang and Dilli in Timor, and at the Banda Islands, on the
voyage to Amboina ; also at Ternate and either Kema or Menado in the
Celebes, on her return.

" Tides.— It was found to be high water, full and change (in October) in
Amboina Harbour, at 2'' 5™, the day tide being lower than the night tide ;
they are, however, irregular, and influenced by the wind." — (H.M.S. Chal-
lenger, October, 1874.)

828 OMA- SAPAROEA.

The Inner Harbour is entered by a narrow channel, 300 yards wide, be-
tween the sandy flat on the South side and the steeper North shore. There
are 6 to 10 fathoms water in it. It is U naile above the town, and the
channel, as before stated, is on the northern side ; within, it widens into a
large basin, 3 miles long by U broad, with tolerably even depths over it,
varying from 12 to 18 fathoms. It is well sheltered from aU winds, but,
probably from this cause, is considered to be unhealthy for ships' crews,
much sickness prevailing with the small vessels coming inside, while those
in the outer harbour continue healthy. The watering river is on the North
side, and may be known by a house on either side of it, at a small distance.
Casks are readily filled by means of a hose, but a loaded long boat can only
float out at high water. The head of the harbour, as before mentioned, is
separated from Baguala Bay on the eastern end of the island by a narrow
sandy isthmus. At one time the Dutch attempted to cut a canal. It has
been partially filled up, still up to the present large prahus are floated up
and carried across the remainder to avoid going round the whole of the
island.

OMA or Haruku lies 6 miles eastward of the eastern part of Amboina.
The channel is quite safe. It is about 9 miles long, and the clove is well
cultivated. It has no harbour or roadstead, the chief place being Hanihu, at
its S.W. end. Fort Zeelandia here is in lat. 3° 37' 45" S., long. 128° 25' E.
The North coast of the island should not ^e approached within 2 or 3
miles.

SAPAROEA or Honimoa, the next island to the eastward, is larger than
Oma, and, like Amboina, is of an irregular figure, two peninsulas joined by
a narrow isthmus. The channel between Oma and Honimoa is only a mile
wide in its narrowest part, destitute of anchorage, and subject to strong
currents or tides. Should a vessel venture through, which is not to be
recommended, keep on the Oma shore. Some shoals are marked on the
Dutch charts as lying a mile East off the N.E. point of Oma.

Pulo Dombo or Pigeon Island, a small islet, lies off the South point,
known formerly as the Dolphin's Nose. This is in lat. 3° 39^' S., long. 128°
39'. A bay, 3 miles deep, lies to the East of it, and Pulo Melano or Moelana
about 2 miles to the S.W.

Saparoea village, the chief place, lies at the head of the bay of which the
Dolphin's Nose is the S.W. point. Fort Buurstede protects it. There is good
anchorage near this fort in the westerly monsoon in about 12 fathoms.
Steer in about mid-channel, between the reefs that line both sides of the
bay, but no soundings are to be got until within a mile of the fort, and
anchor in 10 fathoms with it bearing N.W. 450 yards distant. The fort is
in lat. 3° 35' 50" S., long. 128° 38' 18" E. High water, full and change, at
Ih 0™ ; springs rise 6 ft. The island, like the others, is well cultivated, and
has several roads traversing its central portion to its North shore.

THE BANDA ISLANDS. 829

NUSA LAUT, about 800 ft. high, the easternmost of the Amboina group,
or the Clove Islands, is separated from Honimoa by a safe channel, 2 miles
wide. Foul ground surrounds it to the distance of a quarter of a mile. There
is no shelter whatever, but anchorage may be had in favourable weather at
the North side, and ojEf the N."\V. part, where there is a fort. A road goes
all round the island, a circuit of 18 or 20 miles. It is believed to produce
the best cloves of all the group.

The STRAIT which separates these islands from the South coast of Ceram
is of very various width. Its northern part, along the shores of Ceram, is
believed to be quite clear at a mile off the land, but a berth should be given
in working through it, to the shoals which lie to the northward of Oma and
off the N. W. part of Honimoa. The eastern islands are comparatively low,
and, when viewed at a long distance from the southward, do not appear
separated from the very much higher land of Ceram to the northward ; it is
not until closer up with them that they are perceived to be distinct islands.

The BANDA ISLANDS are the home of the nutmeg tree, as the islands
just described are of the clove. It is a singular fact that these two spices of
such universal use should be only produced on two such insignificant groups
of islands, lying so near the equator as those in question. There has been
no regular hydrographical survey of the group, but the Dutch authorities
and Captain Owen Stanley have given us sufficient data to use the charts
with confidence.

The islands, subject to the Dutch, by whom a Eesident is appointed, have
been cared for in a most expensive and exclusive manner. The nutmeg
monopoly was formerly maintained by the government, by purchasing the
produce at a fixed price, and supplying the proprietors of the perks (parks)
with slaves at a fixed price, and rice from Java at its cost. Since the aboli-
tion of slavery, however, any one is free to clear the jungle and plant the
spice-giving trees. The annual produce is about 600,000 lbs. of nutmegs
and 150,000 lbs. of mace. Many obsolete obstructions to the extension of
commerce have been removed, but the islands still preserve their character
of exclusively producing the best nutmegs. The nutmeg trees are in fruit and
blossom all the year round ; the flower is yellow, and the fruit like a small
unripe peach. When fit to gather, the outer rind splits open, disclosing the
nut with its covering of mace.

The Banda Islands have been frequently described, and most recently by
Mr. W. J. J. Spry and Lord George Campbell, who visited the islands on
board H.M.S. Challetiger in September, 1874. They were much struck durino-
their three days' stay with the neatness of the town, the beauty of the
scenery, and hospitality shown by the inhabitants. We take the account of
a visit by Mr. A. S. Bickmore, in company with the Dutch Governor-General
Mr. Arriens, in September, 1865.

They are ten in number ; the largest, Lonthoir or Lontar, or Great Banda,

830 THE BANDA ISLANDS.

is a crescent-shaped island, about 7 miles long, and a mile and a half wide
in its broadest parts. Its eastern horn curves towards the North, and the
other points to the West. In a prolongation of the former lie Pulo Pisang,
" Banana Island," and Pulo Kapal, " Ship Island." The first is only about
two-thirds of a mile long, and half as wide, and the last is merely a high
rock, resembling the poop of a ship, hence its name. Within the circle of
which these islands form an arc, lie three other islands. The highest and
most remarkable is the Gunong Api, or " Burning Mountain," apparently
attaining a very considerable elevation, because its sides rise so abruptly
up from the sea. Between the Gunong Api and the northern end of Lonthoir
lies Neira, about two miles long and less than a mile broad. North-east of
the latter is a small rock, called Pulo Krakka, or " Women's Island." The
centre of the circle of which Lonthoir is an arc, falls in Zonne Gat or Sun
Strait, a narrow passage separating Gunong Api from Neira. The diameter
of this circle is about six miles. Without this another concentric circle may
be drawn, which will pass through Pulo Ai (Wai), ** Water Island," on the
West, and Eosengain on the S.W. ; and outside of this a third concentric
circle, which will pass through Pulo Swangi, " Sorcery," or " Spirit Island"
on the N.W., Pulo Eun (Eung), -'Chamber Island," on the West, and the
reef of Eosengain on the S.W. The total area of the whole group is only
17.6 geographical square miles.

In the five islands now named — Lonthoir, Eosengain, Ai, Eun, and Neira
— grow all the good nutmegs consumed in every part of the world. De Bar-
ros, in 1852, said that they had been frequented for ages by the Malays, in
proof of which, the names of the difi'erent islands mentioned above are all of
Malay or Javanese origin. The aboriginal population at that time is given
at 15,000, which, if correct, would have made this group far more densely
peopled than any other island or number of islands in the whole archipelago
at the present day.

The climate and proximity of the great volcano render the islands very
unhealthy, the annual deaths in the group amounting to 1 in 21. The
frequent eruptions, always followed by famine and death, and the earth-
quakes, which also devastate the group, have kept down the population to
a very great degree. The most fatal of these visitations occurred in 1G29,
1683, 1686, 1691, 1743, 1816, and 1852. So terrible were the ravages of
the eruption and earthquake of 1691, that all the more wealthy people hastily
abandoned it, and it was only by the firmness of the Dutch Governor that
the abandonment of the place was prevented. Some of these have com-
menced their destruction without an instant of warning, and the ashes and
hot stones have buried the island in dust and ashes, and poisoned its water
in a moment.

Winds, etc — From inquiries amongst the natives and Dutch residents, it
was gathered that the North- West Monsoon, which sets in about the middle

GEEAT BANDA. 831

of November, occasionally blows with violence, but that the South-West
Monsoon seldom blows so fiercely. Eain falls in both monsoons, the dry
months being September and October, when light variable winds and calms
prevail.

The population of the group in 1840 was only 5,081, of which Neira had
1,225, Lonthoir 372, Ai 148, and Eun 42. These, amounting to 1787, were
the free population; but to make up the total there were 2,183 slaves and
1,029 convicts from Java, Sumatra, and Borneo, so that the people had de-
creased one-fifth in the previous 115 years.

GREAT BANDA is about 7 miles long, by li broad. It is divided into
three districts, Lontlwir, or Lonthar, at its "West end, and the rest into the
Voorland, or " front," on the North side, and the Achterland, or the '' back,"
on the South and East.

The shore of the western horn of crescent-shaped Lonthoir is composed
of a series of nearly perpendicular crags, 200 or 300 feet high ; but on the
North side the luxurious vegetation of these tropical islands does not allow
these rocks to remain naked, and from their horizontal crevices and upper
edges hang down thick wide sheets of a bright unfading verdure. The
western entrance to the harbour is between the abrupt magnificent coast of
Lonthoir on the right, and the high, overhanging peak of Gunong Api on
the left, and, as we advance, these separate and open to our view the steep
lofty wall that forms the northern shore of Lonthoir. This is completely
covered with one dense mass of vegetation, out of which rise the erect
columnar trunks of palms.

This western end of Lonthoir is about 400 feet high, and is composed of
coral rock of very recent date. Nearly the whole island is composed of such
eruptive rocks, and Lonthoir may be regarded as merely a part of one immense
crater about 6 miles in diameter, if it were circular, though it may have been
more nearly elliptical. Pulo Pisang and Pulo Kapal already noticed as fall-
ing in this circle, are two other fragments of the old crater walls — all the
rest have disappeared beneath the sea. Here, then, is another enormous
crater, greater even than that seen among the Zeugger Mountains on the
eastern end of Java, whose minor and major axes severally measure three
miles and a half and four miles and a half, and whose floor of naked sand
is well named by the Malays " the Sandy Sea." Banda Neira represents the
extinct craters rising in that Sandy Sea, and Gunong Api has a complete
analogue in the still active Bromo. The enclosed bay, where vessels now
anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, is the bottom of this old crater, and, like that in
the Zeugger Mountains, is composed of volcanic sand.

The radiating ridges on the outer side of Lonthoir represent the similar
ridges on the sides of every volcano that is not building up its cone by
frequent eruptions at its summit.

Every island in the group is now belted with a fringing reef, except at a

832 GUNONa API— NEIEA.

few places where the shore is a perpendicular precipice, and the water
of "reat depth. The western entrance through which we came to the
roads is already quite closed up by a broad reef of living, growing coral.

The Western Channel, half a mile wide, which separates it from Gunong
Api, is called the Lonthoir Channel. It has 6 and 7 fathoms in the fairway,
but from the North shore, abreast of Lonthoir village, shoal water extends
for half a mile off. The channel, therefore, is under the Gunong Api shore.

GUNONG API, the "burning mountain," is simply a volcanic cone, in lat.
4° 31' S., long. 129° 54' E.

The whole mountain is one great cone, about 2 miles in diameter, of
small angular blocks of trachytic lava and black volcanic sand, the crater
at its top being a conical cavity in this mass. The form of the summit
is nearly elliptical ; the depth of the crater is about 80 feet, its diameter
being roughly estimated at from 100 to 150 yards. The area at the top
is about 200 yards long, by 390 wide, composed of heaps of small lava-
blocks, which are whitened on the exterior, and in many places quite en-
crusted with sulphur. Through these heaps of stones steam and sulphurous
acid gas are continually rising.

The first European who reached the summit, so far as I am aware, was
Professor Reinwardt, in 1821 ; the second was M. Salomon Miiller, in 1828,
and from that time till the 13th of September, 1865, when we ascended it,
only one party had attempted this difficult undertaking, and that party was
from the steamer Etna, whose name we had found on a large rock in the old
crater. Some of the crew of H.M.S. Challenger ascended the mountain in
1875, and took 2 hours in reaching the summit.

The height of this volcano we found to be 707-5 metres, 2,321 feet. Its
spreadicg base occupies less space, 2 miles square. In size, therefore, it
is insignificant, compared to the gigantic mountains on Lombok, Java, and
Sumatra; but, when we consider the great amount of suffering, and the
immense destruction of property that have been caused by its repeated
eruptions, it becomes one of the most important volcanoes in the archi-
pelago." — Bichnore.

NEIRA, or Banda Neira, is separated from Gunong Api by a channel of
irregular breadth, called Zonnegat, or Sun Strait. It being so contracted, and
the tides within it being so rapid, it is seldom used except by small vessels.
Erom the north-eastern part of Great Banda it is separated by the Slaman,
or East Gat, a name given to it from a ruined Portuguese fort on the N.W.
end of Great Banda. Neira is about If miles long from N.N.W. to S.S.E.,
and the capital of the group is at its South end. Its highest point is the
Papenhurg, 640 feet at its northern part. The southern part is composed of
hills, which gradually slope down to the South shore, on which the town or
village is built. On the S.W. point are the Pakhuizen, or Magazines, and
above this point, on the summit of a hill, is Fort Belgica.

PULO PISANG. 833

Fort Belgica is in form a regular pentagon. At the corners are bastions
surmounted by small circular towers, so that the whole exactly resembles
an old feudal castle. Its walls are white and almost dazzling in the bright
sunlight, and beneath is a broad neatly-clipped glacis, forming a beautiful
green, descending lawn. Below this defence is Fort Nassau, which was built
by the Dutch when they first arrived in 1609, only two years before the
foundations of Belgica were laid, and both fortifications have existed, much
as they are now, for more than two centuries and a half. To the right and
left of this fort extends the town of Banda Neira, with rows of pretty shade-
trees on the bund, or front street bordering the bay. The town is prettily
laid out, and contained, in 1874, 6,000 inhabitants, including 600 Euro-
peans. At one end is the Dutch garrison, and at the other the Chinese,
Arabs, &c. There are three piers running into the sea. The roads are in
excellent order, being kept so by convicts ; a row of green trees on each side
of the road gives them a refreshing coolness. Banda is a free port.

H.M.S. Challenger entered the harbour northward of Great Banda, between
Pisang Island and Point Burang, and anchored in 7 fathoms, with the East
extreme of Banda Neira bearing N.E. f N., the South extreme of Gounung
Api W. I N., and Fort Nassau N. h W.

The edges of the shoal water on either side of the southern channel into
Banda Harbour, between Gounung Api and the western end of Great Banda,
are marked by beacons, each consisting of a pole surmounted by a triangle.

Su2)plies are scane and expensive, fowls are 3s. to 4s. each, eggs 2id. each.
Beef can only be occasionally procured. Vegetables and fruit are to be had
in small quantities. Coal is generally to be had, but the supply cannot
always be depended on.

Tides. — From the Dutch observations, it is high water, full and change,
at the mole head in Banda Harbour, at 12'\ ; springs rise 14 ft. The tides
are strong, but not regular ; it is therefore proper to moor at once.

Batu Palo Matti is the N.W. point of Neira, and off it is Palo KraJcka, or
Porto Krah, an islet lying in the northern entrance to the Sun Strait.

Pulo Pisang lies half a mile northward of the N.E. point of Great Banda,
and is joined by a reef to Pulo Kapal, the Ship Rock. Between Pisang and
Great Banda the channel is very deep. Pulo Way or Ai bears West 7 miles
from Gunong Api, and E. by N. \ N, 4 miles from Pulo Run or Rung, the
passage between the latter being said to be unsafe, as a reef extends ofi" the
North side of Pulo Eun. Pulo Swangg, the northernmost of the group,
bears N. J W. from Pulo Way. Rosengain, or Rosengeyn, the easternmost of
the Banda Islands, lies about 4 miles eastward of Great Banda.

Rosengain Reef, which breaks, lies 5 miles S.E. by S. of the island of the
same name. It is in lat. 4" 38' S., long. 130^ 5' E.

I. A. 5

834 THE BANDA SEA.

The islands, generally, are subject to gusts of wind from the mountains,
and the weather is hot and oppressive in the day, but the nights are cool.

In the Westerly Monsoon, the only practicable channel is by the Lonthoir
Channel, which, as before said, has shoal water on its southern side ; so that
it is necessary to keep the Gunong Api shore on board. The extremity of
Pulo Way kept just touching, but open with the extremity of Grunong Api,
will lead a ship up to the anchorage. As this is only used for coming in
in this monsoon, so it is the channel used for going out in the opposite
season.

In the Easterly Monsoon, the broader Slaman Channel is used. Give a
berth of half a mile to the shore of Great Banda and to that of Banda Neira.
You may pass on either side of Pulo Pisang and Pulo Kapal, but not
between them, and when to the southward of them the channel is about 2
miles wide.

The anchorage is off the Eesidentie House and the New Pier at Neira, in
7 or 8 fathoms, with Pulo Way just shut in with the point of Gunong Api
and Eoit Belgica, about N.N.W., distant one-third of a mile from the wharf.
The Orpheus Bank, with only 15 ft. water over it, will be avoided in coming
in by not shutting in the north-eastern point of Great Banda with the low
S.E. point of Banda Neira.

THE BANDA SEA.

The space between the S.E. portion of Celebes and the islands lying off it
on the one hand, and New Guinea on the other, with the islands just de-
scribed, with Ceram on the North, and the chains of islands extending east-
ward from Timor, has been termed the Banda Sea. It is difficult to describe
in geographical sequence a series of islands so widely scattered. Most of
the islands are supposed to belong to the Dutch, and during the period when
a strict monopoly of trade was maintained at the Spice Islands, that Govern-
ment established and kept up a number of forts on the chief islands for
the protection of this monopoly. Since this system has been partially aban-
doned, the interest in them, which must have been costly, has led in most
cases to their virtual abandonment, but still the natives acknowledge the
sway, now so slightly exercised over them, and they usually appear to pass-
ing ships or traders under Dutch colours.

The Banda Sea is of great depth in places, as H.M.S. Challenger obtained
a sounding of 2,800 fathoms in lat. 5" 24' S., long. 130° 38' E. In the serial
temperatures taken in the deep soundings, the same temperature, 37.5°, was
found from a depth of 900 fathoms to the bottom, indicating that the Banda
Sea is enclosed by a rim or border, with only 900 fathoms in its deepest
channel.

TOKEN BESSI. 835

Some of the islands are still very little known or visited, especially those
in the western part ; of the others which lie between the Moluccas andN.W.
Australia, the charts have had many improvements from the observations
and partial surveys by Captains J. Lort Stokes and Owen Stanley, E.N., and
especially the remarks of Lieutenant D. IT. KolfF, of the Dutch navy ; but
very much is required before we can give a perfect description of the region.
We commence, as before, with the western portion — that next to Boeton off
Celebes, is described on page 814, atite.

TOKEN BESSI, or Tukan Bissi Islands, an extensive but little known
archipelago, lies to the S.E. of Boeton. They are of moderate elevation,
but are quite unsurveyed, Wmigi- Wangi, or Waniyi, the north-westernmost,
and perhaps the largest, is 10 miles eastward of Cape East of Boeton. Be-
tween them the depth is very great, 1,070 fathoms. The island is high,
and may be seen 7 or 8 leagues oif, and may be approached within 2 or 3
miles on the North and "West coasts, there being no soundings nor any
appearance of danger above 1^ mile off shore. It is inhabited, and abounds
with cocoa-nuts. The South side of "Wangi-Wangi is bordered by three or
four islands, and S.S.W. 8 miles from the western one is the N.W. end of a
shoal, in lat. 5° 24' S., long. 123° 24' 30" E., which thence extends to the
S.E. towards the Kadupa Group. Kadupa, or Comhado, another cluster, lies
13 miles S.E. from Wangi-Wangi, and the southernmost, BinonJco or Pinunko,
is in about lat. 6° 17' S., long. 124° E.

The space between the southern island and the northernmost is supposed
to be foul, but is quite unknown. Some small islands, tree covered, called
the Boompjes, are marked on the Dutch charts.

Hegadis, in lat. 6°7'S., long. 122° 40' E., is the westernmost of the groups
around the S.E. end of Boeton. It is of moderate height, and about 3 miles
in diameter. Reefs extend East and West of it, and off its South end are
some islets, called the Lagu Rocks. At 9 miles to the South of it is a sunken
rock, of doubtful position. A Six-Feet Bank, of considerable extent, is shown
to the eastward of it ; and East of the bank, 40 miles East of Hegadis, an
island, vaguely marked as Groenivout Island, on the old charts.

The Boeton Passage, mentioned on page 814, is about 20 miles wide in its
narrowest part, between these islands and shoals and the South end of
Boeton ; and, as far as is known, is safe, with the exception of Penguin Eeef,
lying 5 miles off the coast of Boelon.

Some shoals are marked to the southward and south-eastward of Binonko,
but nothing certain can be said of them. The Emperor of China Rock is said
to be 33 miles S.S.E. of Binonko, and another rock, Koko or Kaka, is
vaguely stated to lie at 12 miles S.E. of the same, or under the name of the
New Rock, in lat. 6° 39' S., long. 124^ 40' E., at 37 miles South of Velthoen
Island.

Velthoen, the south-easternmost of the islands off Boeton, is in lat. 6° S.,

836 THE BANDA SEA.

Ion"-. 124° 46' E. It is low, covered with trees, and about 5 miles in extent,
and should not be approached within 2 or 3 miles. When seen to the west-
ward the coast has a white chalky appearance, probably coral, which might
be mistaken for breakers.

An island of small size is marked doubtful midway between Velthoen and
Binonko.

St. Matthew Islands, the north-easternmost, are two in number. They
extend in a N.W. and S.E. direction for 15 miles, the centre being in lat.
5° 24' S., long. 124° 16' E. The southernmost is the largest, separated from
the other by a space of 4 miles of breaking reefs. They are about 30 miles
eastward of the northern Token Bessi. The channels between are not safe,
having several reefs, and with our imperfect knowledge demanding a good
look-out.

Ships bound westward in the S.E. monsoon should steer for the northern
of the Token Bessi's, and round it within 3 or 4 miles, for by steering wide
of these islands, you may not be able to weather or beat round the South
end of Boeton against the northerly currents which prevail at times. Wetter,
and the other islands on the South side of the Floris Sea are described on
pages 782, &c.

LUCIPARA, Lousapara, or Lucapin, is a cluster of five low islands, covered
with trees, the North islet in lat. 5° 28J' S., long. 127° 31' E., according to
the Dutch frigate Maria Reygershergen. They cannot be seen more than 12
miles from the deck. Within 5 miles to the E.S.E. of this are several
small islets, and at about 2 miles S.W. from them is a reef called William I.
Reef, from a steamvessel of that name, which was wrecked on it in 1837.

The Turtle Islands are three in number, very low and small, and dan-
gerous to approach by night, being surrounded by coral reefs. The northern-
most island is in about lat. 5° 20' S., long. 127° 48' E. ; the other two islands
lying at 3 miles to the S.W., and 5 miles to S. \ W. They lie 11 miles N.E.
from the Lucipara Islands.

GTJNONG API, before mentioned on page 792, a volcano or burning moun-
tain, as its name indicates, is a high conical hill, visible 45 to 50 miles off.
Its summit is in lat. 6° 43' S., long. 126° 43^' E., bearing S.W. by S. 88
miles from the Lucipara Islands. It is generally active, and the smoke
issuing from its crater will indicate its proximity. It is bold-to.

The SERWATTY ISLANDS.— The several groups of little known or visited
islands, which lie between Timor and Timor Laut, are generally known as
the Senoatty Islands. The people are of the Malay race, and are described
by Mr. George Windsor Earl, who visited them, as a peaceable and indus-
trious race, who raise vegetables, sugar, and hogs, and are divided into three
castes — lords, land owners, and serfs.

EOMA, which lies 64 miles S.E. i S. from Gunong Api, is a hilly island,
about 12 miles in circumference. There is said to be good anchorage in a

LETTI. 837

bay on the N.TV. side, but this part of the island has but a scanty popula-
tion. On the S.W. side lies a fine and fertile valley, through which runs a
small river. In the West monsoon there is good anchorage for a vessel
opposite to the mouth of this river, from which abundance of timber, fire-
wood, and good water may be obtained. On the other sides of the island
the shores are steep and rocky, which renders even boat landing very difii-
cult. The chief village lies on the side of a hill about 400 ft. above the sea,
and is very picturesque. The population, who are chiefly Christians, are
very industrious, and collect large quantities of wax, besides cultivating the
soil, so that provisions may probably be obtained. The anchorage of
Serussa is on the S.E. side of the island, northward of the small island Nussa
Media, which lies within 1 i- mile of the shore. The South shore of Eoma
is dangerous to a mile ofi". Its West point is in lat. 7° 38' S., long.
127° 20' E.

A doubtful island, with a rock ofi" its North end, is marked at 8 miles
North of the West end of Eoma, and several uncertain islands within 20
miles to the eastward of it.

Media is a small island, placed on the chart about 3 miles S.W. of the
South end of Eoma. The island is covered with trees, but without fresh
water. Abundance of turtle ai'e caught around this and the other islands
A rock is marked near its N.W. side.

LETTI, or LETTE, is about 23 miles E.N.E. of the East Cape of Timor,
and to the S.S.E. of Eoma. It is about 8 miles in extent. A high ridge
of hills extends along the centre of the island from East to West, the sides
of which, sloping towards the sea, are covered with trees, and the whole
island presents an appearance of great fertility, but it sufi'ers much some-
times from drought. It was surveyed by Captain Owen Stanley. As above
said, it is generally hilly, but low near the shore, where the chief part of the
inhabitants reside in villages on the more elevated and projecting points.
Eeefs line the island on the North and N.W. sides through an opening,
which is the entrance to the anchorage off the village of Tomlra, which
appears to be the chief place. This inlet or basin is from 400 to 500 ft. wide,
with G to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. It is bounded on either side by reefs,
visible at low water. In the westerly monsoon the best anchorage is off
the village of Batu Mean, on the East side of the island, opposite Moa.
The people are not so civilized as those of Eoma, neither are they so
prosperous.

Moa lies next eastward of Letti, and is about 18 miles long East by South
and West by North. The S.W. point of the island is surrounded by reefs,
but on every part of the East side of the island there is good and convenient
anchorage during the appropriate monsoon.

The S.W. point of the island has reefs steep-to, so that there is a very
heavy surf, especially in the rainy monsoon. The people, who profess much

838 THE BANDA SEA.

attachment to the Dutch Government, turn their chief attention to breeding
cattle, and grow only a small quantity of vegetables and Indian corn. On
the N.E. point of the island is a solitary high mountain, called Eorhou, or
Buffalo Peal, 4,100 ft. high, in lat. 8° 12' S., long. 128° 2' 30" E., resembling
in appearance, though so much, lower, the Peak of Tenerife. The rest of
the island is generally flat and coralline ; on the South and south-eastern
sides there is very little cultivation. The buffaloes are the best that can be
procured among these islands.

Lakor is separated from Moa by a strait, in which is good anchorage.
The island bears a perfect resemblance to a dry coral bank, raised about 20
ft. above the sea, so that there is butl ittle scope for cultivation. The sandy
spots are planted with cocoa-nut trees ; most of the necessaries of life are
imported from the other islands, so that the population is small and poor.
The Bourga anchored off the western village, on the North shore, in 7
fathoms, with a warp on to the shore reef. At 8 miles eastward of Lakor is
a small cluster of islets, called OTcenao.

Luan, about 32 miles E.N.E. from Lakor, is a group about 14 miles in
circumference, and, being high, is visible at a considerable distance. An
extensive reef, studded with islets, surrounds it, within which, there is a
depth of 2 fathoms, affording sufficient anchorage to small traders. The
islets to the N.E. of Luan are not inhabited, and are about 4 miles distant
from the the main island. Close outside these the reef is steep-to, and may
be safely approached. The people, forming 200 or 300 families, nominally
Christians, are tolerably civilized. The chief product of the islands is
tortoise-shell, of good quality. Trepang is also one of the chief articles of
trade, as well as edible birds' nests. Louan is the chief island. Matumara,
a small islet, lies 2 miles South of it ; and Klapa, the second largest islet, is
3 miles eastward of Louan.

Sermatta, or Sermattan, next eastward of Luan, is about 15 miles long,
and composed of a high ridge of hills, extending East and West, the sides
of which run steeply down to the sea. As the island is thinly inhabited,
and affords no shelter to shipping, it is unimportant to strangers. The in-
habitants are subject to the people of Luan. East end lat. 8° 16' S., long,
129° 0' E.

DAMMA lies 65 miles N.N.W. of Sermatta. It is high and hilly, and on
its N.E. extremity is a volcanic peak, from the crater of which smoke issues
almost without interruption. At the foot of this mountain, near a cave, in
the Bay of Kulewatta, are some warm sulphureous springs, useful as a
bath in rheumatic cases. The island is about 15 miles long from N.W. to
S.E., and on its East side is Kulewatta Bay, before mentioned, extending
about 4 miles inland, and in many parts quite unfathomable, with precipitous
shores. Wilhehnus Bay, on tlie North side of the island, was formerly the seat
of the Dutch residency. It is much exposed, and a heavy swell tumbles home

MANO— BABA. 839

in it in all seasons, but there is secure anchorage near the mouth of a small
fresh-water river. Several islands are marked to the southward and two to
the westward of it, but we have no particulars of them.

Teon, or Tame, is 37 miles E.N.E. of Damma, is hilly, and of moderate
height. It is uninhabited. Nila, which is much larger, is about 18 miles
N.E. of Teon, the water between being dangerous. It consists of a high,
round hill, with anchorage for small vessels on its North side. It is visible
6 leagues off. In the channel between it and Teon there are numerous reefs,
so that it is quite unsafe. It is inhabited by a few heathens. Tortoise-shell
is procured in great abundance on all these islands. Two shoals are shown
on the old charts to the northward of Nila, and the captain of the Dutch
brig Doeahorgh reported, in 1870, a shoal N.W., distant bh miles ; particulars
not stated; and Captain Griffin, in 1874, reports a danger with the peak of
Nila bearing W.S.W. ^ S., and Seroea N.E. i N.

Serua, or Seroea, in lat. 6= 17' S., long. 130= 0' E., is 32 miles N.E. of Nila,
and is said to have anchorage on the North side ; but most of these islands
are steep-to, and generally have a rocky bottom in those few places where
they have been sounded.

MANO or Bird Island.— This island, l^ing N.N.W. and S.S.E., is about
1 mile long and half a mile wide ; it is prism-shaped, its sides sloping from
the sea at an angle of about 30' to the summit, which is 980 ft. high. The
eastern slope and the northern part of the summit are wooded, the western
slope and southern part of the summit are bare. Smoke was seen rising
from the West side by H.M.S. Challenger. The South point of the island is
in lat. 5° 34' S., long. 130° 19' E. At 22 miles E.N.E. i N. from it, H.M.S.
Challenger found a depth of 2,800 fathoms.

SABA is 43 miles E.N.E. of Sermatta. It is hilly and tolerably high,
and surrounded by several smaller islets, the most important of which are
Wetang to the "West, Daaiio the North, Maselar to the S.E., and Lawelaar to
the East. The best anchorage near Baba during the East monsoon is on the
West side of the island off the village of Te2)a ; and, in steering towards
this, the Dourga ran close along the North shore of Wetang, and then stood
over to Baba, when she worked up close under the land to the anchorage,
bringing up in 1.5 fathoms, good holding ground. Care is necessary in
working up to the anchorage during this monsoon, as heavy squalls some-
times come off the land. When easterly winds prevail, it is said that the
most secure roads are under the coast of Wetang. There is a bank of 5^ to
10 fathoms between them, on which a vessel will be sheltered from all winds.
There is also anchorage at the East end of Baba, with the N.E. point of the
island bearing about North, and the South point S. by W., and the entrance
of a fresh- water river S.W. ; but the bottom is generally foul about this
island. The western side of Baba is so precipitous and oyergrown with

840 THE TENIMBEE ISLANDS— TIMOR LAUT.

forest, that there is but little cultivation. Matang is more fertile, and is well
cultivated.

The people are divided into two portions, one to N.W., the other to S.E.,
the centre of the island being uninhabited. They are a barbarous people,
who have forgotten nearly all the old Dutch influences for good, and, like
those of Timor Laut, are not to be trusted.

The TENIMBEE, ISLANDS.— This group is the easternmost of those
which extend from Timor towards the Ki and Arru Islands. It consists of
numerous islands, of which Timor Laut, or "Timor of the Sea," is the prin-
cipal. They are almost all low and coralline, with the exception of Serra
and Vordate, which have some hills. The inhabitants are of the Malayan
race, and are good looking when young. They are very particular with
their persons, and have great cleanliness in their dwellings, &c., a rare
virtue. They are industrious, and raise much vegetables, farinaceous roots,
cocoa-nuts, hogs, goats, and poultry ; but they are not to be trusted. Capt.
Owen Stanley has given a vivid picture of his visit to a village in the S.E.
part of Timor Laut.

TIMOR LAUT, according to the charts, is 95 miles long from S.W. to N.E.
Its eastern coast is formed of a range of hills, wooded to the very summit,
and indented by deep bays, which would afford anchorage during the N.W.
monsoon, were it not for a coral reef that appears to extend along the coast
at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore.

The South Point, or S.W. point, is rather low, in lat. 8" 19' S., long. 130°
43', and is fronted by a dangerous reef, pi'ojecting from it 2 miles, requiring
great caution when in its proximity during the night, particularly as the
currents are variable and strong at times. The land about the point is
covered with ti'ees, and the shore to about a mile eastward presents a rocky
face, the East end of which has the appearance of the entrance of a river,
and is remarkable by a large detached fragment of rock resembling the hull
of a ship. From the South point the coast extends in a N.E. by E. direc-
tion 12 or 13 miles, and afterwards more northward, the whole extent to the
North end being above 100 miles. A wooded islet lies 2 miles West of the
South Point.

Oliliet, on the East coast of Timor Laut, was visited by Captain Owen
Stanley, R.N., in H.M.S. Britomart. He places it in 7" 55' S., long. 131" 23' E.
It is built on a hill, 413 ft. high, about the middle of the East coast. The
hill is nearly perpendicular, and only capable of being ascended by ladders.
The houses are all built on piles, and are thatched and surmounted at the
gables by richly carved large wooden horns. It does not appear to be a
place from which any quantity of sea stock can be procured, for although
there were many pigs seen, they did not seem inclined to part with them.
Water may be got on the beach, but a merchant vessel should be very cau-
tious in sending her boats for it to guard against treachery. To the N.E. of

THE AEEU ISLANDS. 841

Oliliet there are six other villages perched on cliffs overhanging the sea, and
most difficult to approach.

Of this coast, beyond what has been stated, nothing more is known, and
the whole of the western shore appears to be a complete terra incognita.

Laarat or Laroc Island, off its N.E. point, is nearly 20 miles long ; its
eastern shore is surrounded by a reef, but off which there is anchorage in
the westerly monsoon.

Vordate Island, which is higher than the rest, is separated from Laarat
by a safe channel, 2 miles wide. The island is well cultivated ; the an-
chorage off its South end is not very good, owing to the great unevenness of
the bottom. H.M.S. Britomart came here in 1839 and anchored. They
found that the natives were very well off, had many European goods, but
were not to be trusted. Like the adjacent islands, the people acknowledge
some sort of sovereignty in the Dutch. Many of them profess Christianity,
especially the chiefs. They have been converted for many years by the
Dutch from Amboina.

Of the other islands which lie to the northward of Timor Laut, Ma^'u
and Muhi, we know nothing ; the northernmost is represented in lat. 6° 35'
S., long. 131° 40' E. The same may be said of the islet and reefs which
extend for many miles off its N.W. side, and having Serra, a high land to
the S.W., the S.W. point of which is in lat. 7° 38' S., long. 130° 44' E., and
is quite bold-to. The strait between this and Baba, 60 miles to W.S.W., is
deep and clear.

The ARRIT ISLANDS, which lie 130 miles E.N.E. from Timor Laut, are
an extensive group or archipelago extending 110 miles from North to South,
and with a breadth of from 40 to 50 miles. They were visited by H.M.S.
Britomart in 1839-41, and from the descriptions by her commander Owen
Stanley and other officers, and especially from the notices given by ]\Ir. Geo.
Windsor Earl at the same period, we owe nearly all thut can be said of
them. H.M.S. Challenger anchored off Dobbo for a week in September,
1875, when some interesting additions to the natural history collection were
made, including some fine specimens of the king bird of paradise. The name
is properly Pulo Aran, " islands of the casuarina trees."

The Arru Islands are under Dutch authority, being visited periodically by
the officials from Banda. They are inhabited by a negro race, bearing more
resemblance to the northern tribes of Australia than to the Papuans of New
Guinea, but they seem to have acquired more civilization than is usual with
this race. Many strangers, Malays, Javanese and others from Celebes and
the Moluccas are settled among them. They are vigorous traders, mother-
o' -pearl shells, trepang, birds' nests, and tortoise-shell being the chief articles.
The islands are of limestone formation, and the land rises from an elevation
scarcely above the sea-leyel to the eastern side. The shores abound in
I. A. 6 P

842, THE AERU ISLANDS.

caverns, the resort of the swallow which builds the esculent nest. They are
covered with tall trees, the casuarina being prominent among them.

The land is only a few feet higher than the level of the sea, except in
ppots where patches of limestone rock rise to the height of about 20 ft. ; but
the immense trees which cover the face of the country give it the appear-
ance of being much more elevated. Most of the islands consist of fresh-
water swamps, and the jungle is so thick that it is seldom penetrated by the
natives ; the communication between the different villages, all of which are
erected on the sea-shore, being carried on by means of boats.

The produce of the Arru Islands consists chiefly of pearls, moth er-o' -pearl,
tortoise-shell, birds of paradise, and trepang ; but the trade of Dohlo on the
N.W. side does not entirely depend upon the produce of the Arru Islands
alone. The Bugis prahus import large quantities of British calicoes, iron
hardware, muskets, gunpowder, &c., from Singapore ; to obtain which,
Dobbo is visited by natives of Ceram, Buru, New Guinea, and all the adja-
cent islands, it being the only spot in this part of the world where British
manufactures can be procured. The tortoise and moth er-o' -pearl shells,
ambergris, birds of paradise, ebony, cloves, massay-bark, rosamald, an
odoriferous wood, and kaya buku, a wood much prized in Europe for cabinet
work are obtained here. British calicoes and iron are the only articles taken
in exchange for these by the prahus of New Guinea.

Of the timber of the Arru Islands there are several varieties highly spoken
of by the Bugis, who build and repair prahus here, for its durability and
ease with which it is worked. Although of immense size, the trees are
almost invariably sound, and as they can be felled within a few yards of the
beach, it is not impossible that timber may at some future time form a
valuable article of export.

The western islands of this group are thinly inhabited. The eastern
islands are said to be more thickly inhabited ; the natives appear to be a
harmless race, and although their country in produce is so rich, the greater
portion are in a state of poverty. This is to be attributed to the inconsi-
derate use of spirituous liquors, large quantities of which are brought by
the traders from Java and Makassar ; indeed, with rice, it forms the bulk of
their cargoes.

Weather. — From native report, the S.E. monsoon commences at the Arru
Islands about the beginning of May, and lasts until the end of August or
middle of September ; light winds then prevail to the middle or end of No-
vember, when the N.W. monsoon sets in. The rainy season is during the
N.W. monsoon, but there is rain on every day of the S.E. monsoon. The
finest months are September and October, when but little rain falls. This
account of the weather agrees with that given by the missionaries of Redscar
Bay, New Guinea.

Ngor Island is the southernmost of the group, its South extreme being in

THE ARRU ISLANDS. 843

lat. 7° 10' S., long. 134° 23' E. The North part of this island was the first
land sighted by H.M.S. Challenger in approaching from the southward.
Batu Goyang and Krei Islands to the N.W. of Ngor, between it and White
Eock, could not be seen in their assigned positions.

Trangan Island, forming the S.W. land of the group, is low and flat ; the
only elevations on its western side are a small wooded, flat-topped hill (S.W.
hill) conspicuous from the southward, in lat. 6° 49' S., long. 134° 8J' E. ;
and a low summit (North Hill) but slightly higher than the surrounding
land, and conspicuous only from the westward. It is in lat. 6° 40' S., long.
134° 6' E.

Close off the South point of the island are two small islets, the southern
one, White Roch, in lat. 6° 58' S., long. 134° 13' E., is bare, about 20 feet
high, and shows white when seen against the green background. The other
islet has a few scattered trees upon it.

The South point of Trangan Island is not remarkable, but just East of it
are some very conspicuous red cliff's. From the South point the western coast
of the island trends N.W. for 2 or 3 miles to a bare point, where, turning
northward, it forms a bay. Upon the western bluff point (Eed Patch Point)
of this bay is a red patch, by which it is easily distinguished. Its extremity
is in lat. 6°51J'S., long. 134°4i'E,, and it was seen from the north-westward
at a distance of 18 miles.

The coast northward of Red Patch Point is low and flat, as far as the
N.W. point of the island next South of Maika Island, which seemed to ei.d
abruptly with the trees growing to its outer extremity, and it is easily re-
cognized. About 5 miles southward of this point, is an apparent bluff that
stands out from the dead level of the trees, and is the only prominent object
northward of North Hill.

Maika and Bahi Islands are both flat and thickly wooded ; they were seen
at a distance of about 15 miles.

Blackburne Shoal, lying W.S.W. 8 miles from Eed Patch Point, is about 1
mile in extent, and upon it there appeared to be as little water as 6 ft., with
shallow water to the north-eastward. The outer part of the shoal is in lat.
6=^ 54i' S., long. 133° 57' E.

From 10 miles S.W. of the South point of Ngor Island to the Blackburne
Shoal, the soundings varied from 19 to 12 fathoms ; northward of the shoal
the depths were from 7 fathoms to 13 fathoms W.N.W. 13 miles from North
Hill, after which the water deepened to 35 fathoms. Off the N.W. point of
the island next South of Maika Island, 10 fathoms were found N.W. 4^
miles from the point, when the depth rapidly increased to 40 fathoms, and
45 fathoms 8 miles West of Maika Island. Ten miles W.S.W. of Babi
Island no bottom was found at 150 fathoms, and there are 58 fathoms 3
piiles W-S.W. of the N.W. point of Wama Island. Westward of Dobbo

844 THE AEEU ISLANDS.

Harbour the water deepens rapidly, when Babi Island opens of "Wama
Island.

Kobroor Island, the central one, is the largest, and is 55 miles long. Off
its N.W. end is Wolan or WoJcam, off the S.W. side of which is Wama on the
North shore of which is Dobbo, the chief trading port.

Dobbo Harbour is formed by the channel between Wokan and Wama.
The village is in lat. 5° 47' S., long. 134° 14' E. Mr. Hill, E.N., of H.M.S.
Britomart, gives the following.

The native traders found at Dobbo from the northward, generally prefer
making the small island of Bali, lat. 5° 52' S., long. 134° 10', after getting
hold of which a N.N.E. course is steered for the N.W. point of Wama,
distant 6J miles, and may be known by a native village and a small Dutch
fort.

Vessels bound to Dobbo from the southward, when in the parallel of 6° 8'
South, and long. 134° 4' East, with 11 or 12 fathoms of water, will find a
deep opening to the eastward, and a little more to the northward will be
seen the island of Babi, which is low. Having reached the N.W. end of
Babi, and being 4 or 5 miles to the westward of it, steer N.E. or more
easterly, until you see the village and fort of Waula, on the N.W. point of
Wama.

Water may be procured at the point, by sinking a cask a few feet deep,
but it is not very good from the stream. The native chiefs of the islands of
Wama and Wokan, who have both gold-headed sticks with the Dutch arms
on them (as a symbol of authority), expect a trifling present of arrack and
tobacco from vessels visiting the harbour.

The following is by Commander Tizard, who was here in H.M.S. Chal-
lenger in September, 1874. Steering into Dobbo Harbour with the end of the
spit upon which the village is situated, bearing E.S.E., a depth of 5|^ fathoms
was obtained when the rock off the N.W. point of Wama Island bore
S. by W. ; and 3J fathoms, with the spit end bearing E.S.E, and the rock
bearing W. ^ S. ; from which it was inferred that the 3-fathom line extends
farther from the shore than has been hitherto supposed.

The Challenger anchored in 16 fathoms, with the rock off the N.W. point
of Wama Island bearing West, the western point of Wokan Island N.W. ^
N., and the end of Dobbo Spit S.S.E. | E. Fishing stakes were seen in
various parts of the harbour, stretching from the shore nearly to the edge of
the reef.

The native estimate of the number of inhabitants in the village of Dobbo
was 300, in September, 1874, principally Bugis from the southern part of
Celebes ; but during March the number is said to be increased to as many as
1,500, by the crews of large trading proas from the Makassar coasts, which
carry from 30 to 40 men each.

Supplies are scarce, and consist of a few fowls, eggs, and fish. Upon the

THE ARRU ISLANDS. 845

islands of Ougia and Wassia there are deer, a pair having been originally
placed upon each island by the Dutch.

Alligators are said to abound on the islands, particularly in the swamp at
the back of Dobbo.

The principal exports are trepang, pearl-shell, birds' nests, tortoise-shell,
and birds of paradise. The price of pearl-shell is 2s. per lb., tortoise-shell
158. per lb., and birds of paradise are sold to the Chinese traders by the
natives for 2 dollars each. The coin used is the Dutch dollar at 4s. 2d., and
the rupee at Is. 8d. Gold, particularly sovereigns, is eagerly accepted.

Tides.— 'From observations obtained at Dobbo (in September, 1874) it
would appear to be high water, full and change, at about 2'' 30"". Springs
rise 6 ft., but the time of high water is uncertain. The flood stream in
Dobbo Harbour comes in from the eastward, and the ebb stream from the
westward. In the S.E. monsoon the flood is weak, but the ebb runs from
1 to 1^ knot an hour.

Having to run in or out, great attention should be paid to the tides. If
turning in with the flood, and standing towards the southern shoal, you
should tack the first shoal cast, as the tide sets strong over that bank ; in
turning out with the ebb, the same attention should be paid to the northern
shoal, as the ebb sets strong over that bank. The people of Wama profess
to be pilots, but those seen by the Britomart did not appear to be the least
trustworthy or of any use.

Coal Store. — A Dutch coal store on the East end of "Wama Island was
visited. The coals, estimated at 300 or 350 tons, were in a shed 90 ft. long
by 30 ft. wide, and 20 ft. high, and close to the beach, which appeared
steep-to. Boats can probably load at any time of tide, and a vessel approach
within a half or 1 mile of the beach upon, which the shed stands.

A passage or strait about one-quarter of a mile wide, was found running
in an easterly and westerly direction through the islands, winding slightly.
From its western entrance, which may be distinguished by a small rocky
islet on the southern side, the North point of Maika Island bore W. \ S.,
the right extreme of Babi Island N.W. f W., the left extreme of Wama
Island N.N.W. f W., and the right extreme of Wama Island N. by W. \ W.
In the centre of the passage were found depths of 4 and 5 fathoms.

The island North of this strait is named by the natives Wokan, who stated
that it was part of the island forming the North side of Dobbo Harbour.

The island South of the strait (Kobroor) was called AVanembai, The in-
habitants were numerous and friendly, and cultivate plantains, cocoa-nuts,
sugar-canes, pine-apples, &c., in patches of partially cleared ground enclosed
by rough rail fences. The land is greatly diversified by hill and dale, al-
though from the sea it appears perfectly flat, but it seldom rises to more
than 100 ft. in height.

Each house contains 10 or 12 families, the space being partitioned off by

846 THE KI OR KEI ISLANDS.

boards a foot high into divisions about 6 ft. square, each portion being the
residence of a famil}'.

It was also said that at an island named Gomo Gomo, at the back of Ko-
broor, and two days journey from Dobbo, goats and an abundance of poultry
might be procured.

The high mountains of Great Ki, which rise to a height of about 3,000 ft.,
are visible before Dobbo Harbour is lost sight of.

The northernmost point of the Arru Islands is in about lat. 5° 20' S., long.
134° 40' E. 60 miles distant from the coast of New Guinea.

The KI or KEI ISLANDS are 70 miles westward from Dobbo, in the
Arru Islands. The name, which has been variously spelt as above, or Key,
Kiif or Ky, perhaps means island or the tribes which inhabit them, as it is
prefixed to most of the places on them. The Xi group consists of two large
islands, called the Great and Lesser Ki, and a number of smaller ones lying
to the N.W. of the latter. The Great Ki is about 40 miles long, high and
mountainous ; but the Lesser Ki is nowhere more than 50 ft. above the level
of the sea. The natives of the islands differ very considerably, both in per-
sonal appearance and in language, from those of the Arru Islands, and are
evidently the same race with that inhabiting the Serwatty and Timor Laut.
During the stay of the JBritomart at Ki the inhabitants maintained the high
character they have acquired for industry and hospitality to strangers. The
population is between 8,000 and 10,000.

H.M.S. Challenger left Dobbo on the 23rd of September, 1874, and
reached Little Ki Island the following evening, having obtained two sound-
ings between the groups of islands in 800 and 580 fathoms, green mud. As
the largest island of the group was approached, several boats full of natives
boarded the ship, but as they were all more or less afflicted with skin disease,
they were soon cleared out. On anchoring at Ki Doulan this malady was
found not to be so prevalent. The Rajah and numbers of natives visited
the ship. The chief trade of the place is boat-building, for which they are
locally famous. The natives are an active race, as they proved by running
over the rigging like cats, in a manner that could scarcely be imitated by
the seamen themselves. None of the women were to be seen ; being Moham-
medans, they are naturally and religiously jealous of them, and kept them
out of sight. Some fine pigeons, weighing two pounds each, were taken.

Great Ki, as before said, is about 40 miles long from N.N.E. to S.S.W.,
and is not more than 6 miles across where broadest. Its South point is in
lat. 5° 56' S., long. 132° 53' E. At 8 miles from this, on the East side, is a
small harbour, Hier.

The North point of Great Ki Island is bluff and readily distinguished ; its
extreme was found to be in lat. 5° 16' 45" S., long. 133° 10' 45" E. On the
East and West sides of the point are small bays, in which huts were seen,
and probably anchorage may be found in them.

LITTLE KI ISLAND— KI DOULAN HARBOtJE. 84^

The N.E. point, lying S.E. ^ E. 2 miles from the North point, is low and
sandy, with casuarina trees growing upon it. Off the point are two small
islets, the outer being about 40 ft. high. From the N.E. point, the eastern
coast of the island runs to the southward for 3 miles, and then, receding to
the westward, forms a small bay, on the South point of which is the village
of Ali Bandang ; whence the land extends about S. by W. i W. to a con-
spicuous point in lat. 5° 34' S., long. 133° 8' E.

The N.W. point is W. by S. ^ S. 2 miles from the North point, and off it
there is a detached rock 30 or 40 ft. high. The western side of the island is
nearly straight in a S.S.W. direction for a considerable distance, without
any conspicuous object on its shores.

The whole of the island is mountainous, the range traversing its centre
and sloping down on either side, the peak at the North end being 2,200 ft.
high.

Little Ki Island in reality consists of three low wooded separate islands,
each about 10 or 12 miles long North and South, and 5 to 8 miles wide ; the
two eastern of these are separated from the southern part of the Great Ki
Island by a strait varying in breadth from 6 miles at its southern entrance
to 12 miles in its northern. In the South part of this strait, 10 miles North
from the South end of Great Ki Island, and 5 miles off one of its projecting
points, is an extensive shoal. Hogian is the southern of the Little Ki group,
and is separated from Ki Doulan to the northward by a narrow strait. To
the westward of Ki Doulan and Hogian, and separated from them by a
narrow strait, is Letman Island, on which is a hill 200 ft. high at its N.E.
end. Between the North side of Letman and the West side of Ki Doulan
are three large and numerous smaller islands and rocks.

Ki Doulan Harbour. — N.W., 8 miles from the North point of Ki Doulan
Island, is Ramadan Island, \^ mile in diameter, and midway between is
another small island, which forms the West side of entrance to Ki Doulan
Harbour, the North point of Ki Doulan forming the eastern side of the en-
trance. Doulan Laut Island, with a shoal off its eastern point, is about 2
miles in diameter, and shelters Ki Doulan Harbour on its western side.
Commander Tizard, who visited the harbour in H.M.S. Challenger, in Sept.,
1874, gives the following information : —

Ki Doulan Harbour was not readily distinguished from the north-east-
ward, from the similarity of the two outer islands, Pulo Ramadan and Pulo
Bandang, each having a small islet off its S.E. side.

There is a small summit about 200 ft. high upon the South point of Pulo
Oboor, called Buket Krain, and another, Buket Kalamit, of about 250 ft.,
upon the main shore of Little Ki, S.S.W. 3^ miles from Buket Krain.

The first anchorage of the Challenger was off the village of Tamandam on
the North point of the harbour, with Tranjong Serbat bearing E. J S., Buket
Krain S.S.W. | W., and the East extreme of Pulo Bandang N.N.W. The

848 THE ARAFUEA SEA.

eecond anchorage was in 19 fathoms, off Ki Doulan village, a quarter of a
mile from the shore, and about a cable from the edge of the shoal water,
with the mosque at Ki Doulan bearing East, Loobi Rock S.W. by S., and the
left extreme of Doulan Laut W. ^ S.

From the village of Ki Doulan a wharf or jetty, built of loose coral stones,
extends off to the edge of the shoal water. A few fowls and eggs, cocoa nuts,
and a small quantity of pumpkins and plantains were procured. Some fine
pigeons weighing about 2 lbs. each were also shot. Sago palms grow upon
the island, and supply the staple food of the natives.

One day's observations (September 25th), at full moon, gave the time of
high water, full and change, at Ki Doulan Harbour, at l"" 26", Springs rise
7 ft. The same report as to the winds and weather was given at Ki Doulan
as at the Arrou Islands.

Southern Channel. — A deep channel, was found from the harbour westward,
South of Doulan Laut Island, by which the Challenger proceeded to sea.
Between the reef off Doulan Laut Island and the reef westward of Pulo Oot
9 and 10 fathoms were obtained upon what seemed to be a ledge joining the
two reefs ; westward of this the water deepened rapidly, and 90 fathoms
was obtained between the N.W. point of Little Ki Island and the islet of
Pulo Gad an g.

Margaretha Harbour. — According to Count Lovera di Maria, commanding
the Italian vessel of war Vettor Pisani, 1872, is situated about 5 miles to the
southward of Ki Doulan Village, on the "West side of Ki Doulan Island, is
a capacious and well-sheltered harbour formed by Ki Doulan, Letman, and
Oboor Islands ; the best anchorage is off Tuallah Village, in 7 to 1 1 fathoms
good holding ground.

The passage leading from Margaretha Harbour to the southward, between
Letman and Ki Doulan, is about l^ miles in length, and from 1 to 3 cables
wide, with depths of 2^ to 2f fathoms.

Vessels entering Margaretha Harbour from the northward should steer in
with Buket Kalamit (197 ft. high), in line with Buket Krain, bearing S.W
J S., until Loobi Rock bears East, whence a S. by W. course for 3^ miles
will lead to the anchorage off Tuallah.

The ARAFURA SEA is the area southward of the foregoing islands, be-
tween them and the North coast of Australia. There is nothing to describe
in it, more than information given by the charts. The only dangers or shoals
in the open sea are the Victoria Shoal, lat. 9° 13' S., long. 131° 22' E., a
doubtful position, and the Lynedoeh Banh, discovered in the ship of that
name, Captain W. Stead, October 26th, 1838, in 9° 55' S., long. 130° 40' E.
The latter had 13 to 7 fathoms least water when found, three-quarters of
a mile long, and composed of coral, which may have grown up to a less depth
than the above.

The Money Shoal, 27 feet, is another small detached spot, lying 62 miles

THE AEAFUEA SEA. 849

N.E. from the entrance of Port Essington, lat. 10° 19' S., long. 132° 47' E.
These appear to be all the shoal spots which have been found.

The depth of the Arafura Sea increases from 20 to 30 fathoms, on the
meridian of Cape Valsche and Cape Wessel to 450 fathoms off the South end
of Timor Laut. From Melville Island, in Australia, to the latter, the depths
also appear to gradually increase.

One feature of this sea, which has been frequently noticed, is the quantity
of fish spawn, or of microscopic animalcula^, which discolour its waters. It
being the highway to India from New South Wales, via Torres Strait, it
has become of more importance since that important channel has been well
surveyed, and thus opened to commerce. Captain Henry Toynbee passed
through it in his well known ship the Gloriana, in September and October,
1855. He notices the discolouration of the water from animal life.

September 27, 1855. — At noon this day the sea was all shades of yellow,
blue, and green, caused by what I suppose to be fish spawn ; it had a fishy
smell, and its shape, when seen through a small microscope, was like that of
grass seed.

29th.— Much fish spawn was seen again to-day; in some parts it was quite
dark enough to be mistaken for a sand-bank ; it floated in lines pointing in
the direction of the wind-

In conclusion he says — I have little to say on our passage through the
Arafura Sea. Most of the reported dangers are under water, and we found
none of them. We had soundings of 15 fathoms about 50 miles to the west-
ward of Booby Island ; 27 fathoms forty miles further to the West ; and 38
fathoms seventy-five miles further ; then the depth decreased to 29 fathoms
at the spot where we passed the line between Wessel Island and Frederick
Henry Island. From this point it gradually increased again, so that it is
probable that a line of less soundings connects these islands. We averaged
109 miles per diem through this sea, which quite equalled my expectations,
and were in 11° S., on the meridian of Cape Leeuwin on our thirty-third day
from Sydney. Thence we gradually increased our southing until we were in
lat. 13° 51' S., where we had a good S.E. trade. On the 18th of October
we were in 10° S. lat. and 90° E. long ; and between the 25th and 26th we
crossed the line, in 87° E. On the 5th of November we anchored at the
Sandheads.

To the westward of Little Ki Island are several clusters of small islands.
H.M.S. Challenger, in September, 1874, passed among these islands in pro-
ceeding towards Banda from the Ki Islands, and found the charts most
inaccurate. Many islands were not marked at all. We give below the in-
formation gained.

In about 6° S. and 132° 30' E., or 15 miles S.W. by W. from the S.W.
I. A. 5 Q

850 TIONFOLOKKER GROUP— NUSA TELLO ISLANDS.

end of Hagian Island of the Little Ki group, is an island, and several lie
northward of it, at 8 or 10 miles westward of Little Ki.

The Tionfolokker Group consists of three large and four small islands with
a few outlying rocks. They lie in a N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. direction,
and extend over about 20 miles in length, and about 8 miles in width. The
south-westernmost island is 550 feet high and round-backed ; its southern
point is in lat. 6° 47' S., long. 132° 9' E.

The other islands are low and flat, but covered with trees, and they can
be seen at a distance of from 12 to 15 miles.

A reef extends for 3 miles southward from the two islands lying north-east
of the high south-western island of the group ; on the edge of this reef are
some rocks which are always above water. No other dangers were seen, but
vessels should not venture amongst the islands.

Three Brothers Islands. — This group of three islands occupies a triangular
space, the apex of the triangle being to the southward, and its sides are from
6 to 7 miles in length.

Ta Island, the southernmost, is round shaped, about one mile in diameter,
and 390 ft. high ; its South point is in lat. 5° 42' S., long. 131° 54' E. The
island appeared to be inhabited.

Dol Island, the north-eastern and largest, is low; it is \\ mile long in a
N. by W. and S. by E. direction, and nearly one mile in width ; its southern
point in lat. 5° 37^' S., long. 131° 58^' E., is N.E. ^ N. 6 miles from Ta
Island.

Onelifi Island, the north-western of the group, is also low, but covered with
trees ; it is round and about half a mile in diameter, and is in lat. 5° 36^' S.,
long. 131° 53r E.

Each island is fringed with a coral reef which did not appear to extend far
from the shore; and the passages between the islands seemed free from
danger.

Nusa Tello Islands lie to the North of the Three Brothers. The southern-
most of them is Kanalur Island, 5 miles long, in a N.E. and S.W. direction.
No dangers were observed eastward of the Three Brothers Islands, or be-
tween that group and Kanalur Island. It has an islet oflF its N.E. extreme,
and rises to the summit in a succession of beach-like terraces. The peak,
which is 1,600 ft. high, is in lat. 5° 20^' S., long. 131° 57' E., and it was seen
from the southern entrance of Ki Doulan Harbour. The island is probably
inhabited as smoke and cocoa-nut trees were seen upon it.

At 8 miles northward of Kanalur is Kandar, a smaller island ; and 5 miles
northward of this is Boen, with two small islets within 2 miles N.E. of it.
Toppers Eoedje is marked P.D., at 10 miles N.E. by E. of [Boen, as is also
Little Fortune Island, 9 miles N.N.E. of Boen.

Toa or Tehor Island is 6 miles long North and South, and 3 miles wide at

GOEAM ISLES. 851

its North end. Its South extreme is in lat. 4' 50' S., long. 131° 46' E. At
6 miles E. by N. of this point is a small islet.

Matabella Islands.— The group is hilly and rocky, and the South ex-
treme of the Matabellas is a small table hill. Kamiwi or Corsair is the
central and largest of the Matabellas; it is 6 miles long N.W. and S.E.
—its South extreme being in 4° 30' S., 13P 40' E. At 5 and 7 miles S.E.
by S. from this point are two small islets, called the Bare Islets. Kulcar,
another small islet, lies 6 miles East of them. Separated from the North
extreme of Kassuwi by a strait 1^ mile wide are Watuhclla and higar Islets^
joined by a bank, and extending 6 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction.

GORAM ISLES are three in number, and are separated from the Ceram
Laut group to the N.W. by a narrow channel. They are distinguished by
the natives as Goram, Manovolko and Salawatta or Soeroeaki, or Salavako.
They are rather high, and very fertile. Eice is only grown on the main
island, as that is considered to be an hereditary right.

Goram is the easternmost; its S.E. point is in lat. 4° 3' S., long. 131° 28'
E., and it is about 9 miles long. It has the largest population, and most
trade of the group. The people resemble those of Ceram, and being well
acquainted with the neighbouring coasts, willingly go on board foreign
trading vessels as pilots. Coin is unknown, cotton twist being the best
object to barter. There is a small harbour, called Ojidor, in the reef on
the N.W. side of Goram, which is the chief trading place. Between the
two coral reefs which form it there are 16 and 18 fathoms. Going north-
ward by keeping the Matabellas their own breadth open of the West en-
trance of Goram, will lead outside of them. A N.E. by E. course leads in,
and the channel can be seen, but a gun fired will bring a pilot off. When
you have entered, bear more to the northward, and come to off a stone pier
in 10 fathoms. Fowls, fruit, and sago can be procured. There is a clear
passage between the two western islands, and also between the N.W. island
and Ceram Laut. There is another harbour, open to the East, near the S.E.
point, called Kailahat.

CERAM LAUT, "Ceram to sea," lies off the S.E. end of Great Ceram,
and is a cluster of islets lying on one coral reef, 15 or 18 miles long, which,
as usual, is very shoal on its edges, and drops at once into deep water. The
Avestern island, which is the largest, is high and hilly, and, according to
Captain Kolff, has an exceedingly high tree on it, under which the chiefs of
Kilwari are interred, and which forms a good land mark for seamen. Lat.
3° 50' S., long. 131° O'E-

Kilwari, or Kalhcaru, is a small sandy island overspread with houses, on
the N.W. side of Ceram Laut, to which it is joined by a sand-bank. The two
villages are under the native rajah to the East, and the other a small portion
to the West under a Dutch commander, and are separated from each other
by a stone wall, 6 feet high and 2 feet thick, a similar defence surrounding

852 CERAM.

the island. Coral reefs extend for a considerable distance from the island,
but boat landing may be effected in a bay on the North side. The people
are of the Malay race, and are chiefly fishermen, and take considerable
quantities of tortoise-shell and trepang, which with other articles are largely
collected and bartered here.

Ghissa or Gesir is a low, sandy, uninhabited island, surrounded by a reef
off Kilwari, the channel between being narrow, but said to be safe.

The Keffing Isles, two in number, lie close to the S.E. extreme of Ceram,
and are connected with it by sunken reefs. Little Keffinq is well peopled,
each village being governed by a separate rajah. The East point is in lat,
3" 52' S., long. 130° 53' E. The island is low, and the groups of huts
among the cocoa-nut trees have a very picturesque appearance. To the
East of these islands and the reef which surrounds them, there is a small
island, with a deep channel between.

CERAM, one of the largest islands of the Malay Archipelago, is 1 62 miles
long East and West, and about 40 miles across where broadest. A chain of
mountains runs through its eastern length, so that it may be said to consist
of one Cordillera, some of the peaks of which rise to the height of 6,000 to
8,000 ft., and one of them, Nusa Meli, to 9,250 ft. It has no active volcano
or extinct crater, as far as is known, and has no good harbour on either
shore, except that of Amahai, North of the Amboina group. The whole
island is covered with one stupendous forest, but generally of useless timber.
The coasts are occupied with an enterprising race of Malay fishermen, who
vigorously collect tortoise-shell and trepang from as far as New Guinea and
Australia. But they are a wild and untractable people, who, though they
may be hospitable to Europeans who visit them to their profit, are inveterate
head-hunters, and live in constant feuds. They should not, therefore, be
trusted. The island, as a whole, is very thinly inhabited. A small portion
of its East end, Toho, is under, nominally at least, the Dutch Residentie of
of Banda ; the rest belongs to the Residentie of Amboina.

On the North coast of Ceram, during the East monsoon, the weather is
fine with regular land and sea breezes. The West monsoon is the wet and
squally season, although it brings fine weather at Amboina, a very singular
exception; but at Ceram the West monsoon is the rainy and squally season,
in conformity with its general character everywhere else in these seas from
December until April. The wind is frequently fresh from West and W.N.W.
during the day, dying away towards night, and veering to the W.S.W. with
a light breeze in the morning.

Waru Bay, on the eastern coast of Ceram, has anchorage off the village,
which is in its southern part, in lat. 3° 26' S., long. 130° 45' E. It affords
good anchorage, where water and other refreshments may be procured. For
5 miles eastward of this village the water is foul from the coast, and there is
also a small shoal 5 miles W.N.W. of it, the anchorage lying between these

CERAM. 853

reefs. N.N.E. 10 miles from "Waruis Parang Island, dangerous to approach,
and having a reef 2 miles oflF its "West end. Semgum, or Lengowa Point, is
22 miles northward of Waru ; and at 10 miles N.W. from Semgum Point is
Lama Point, at 22 miles westward from which, is the anchorage in Kobie
Bay, a small bay, sheltered by the land from winds between S.E. and West.
Leuwarden Reef, the West end of which is 7 miles E. by N. from Lama
Point, is 2 or 3 miles in extent, and very dangerous, the West side being a
white sand-bank, and the eastern side a ledge of rocks, some above water.
There are no soundings near it, nor in the channel inside it, which is con-
sidered to be safe.

Wahaay Bay. — The fort at the head of this bay, according to the Dutch
charts, is in lat. 2° 45' 30" S., long. 129° 30' E.

It was visited by Captain R. L. Hunter, in the Marshall Bennett, in 1840.
He says it is something to the westward of the situation assigned to Flat
Point of the charts. Wahaay, however, is at no point, nor is the land near
it at all remarkable for flatness ; in fact, the houses are on the rise of a hill
of some height. It presents from the offing a straight coast, therefore it is
necessary in running for it to keep within 4 or 5 miles of the shore, that the
houses may be seen ; the adjoining land also appears more cleared here than
elsewhere.

Wood here is plentiful of all kinds, large or small, for spars, plank or any
purpose, and excellent water near the ship, and very convenient.

For refreshments a tolerable supply of fowls can be procured, and we
obtained sweet yams enough to supply all hands daily during our stay.
Pine apples and plantains are plentiful. Fish frequently are in abundance,
and sometimes wild deer. Pigs, goats, sheep, and ducks, are scarce and
expensive.

Close to it on the western side is a similar but larger opening in the reefs ;
at the head of the bay, which it leads to, is a village called New Hatiling.
There is a shoal in the middle of the bay ; the anchorage is inside this.

It is high water on full and change days at 6 p.m., only one tide in 24
hours, and the rise 8 ft.

Sawaai Bay is in lat. 2° 51' S., long. 129° 9' E. Taitjong Para forms its
western point ; it is low, and has several small islands surrounded by shoals,
the outer one named Pulo Basar, lying 2 or 3 miles off. There are also some
islands and shoals in the S.E. part of the bay. The channel into the harbour
or road is to the westward of the latter, by steering South for a mount called
the Friar's Hood, at the bottom of the bay, near the village Selema ; and
having rounded the reef and islands fronting the road, haul along shore to
the eastward, and anchor near it, with Pulo Atui, the westernmost island,
bearing North. The water is deep, 40 to 25 fathoms, but it is good anchor-
age, in the S.E. monsoon, bottom mud.

854 CERAM.

Ella Island and shoala, 5 miles in extent, lie off the western entrance of
Pha Point.

Cape Talanuru is the N.W. extremity of Ceram, and is in lat. 2° 52' S.,
long. 128° ir E. From this the western part of Ceram trends off to the
S.W. and South for 45 miles in a long irregular peninsula, in a similar
manner to Amboina, Saparua, and other volcanic islands in the neighbour-
hood, and as is seen on a much larger scale in the singular forms of Celebes
and Halmaheira.

Bonoa, an island of about 12 miles long, with a reef off its northern end,
lies off this N.W. part of Ceram, forming Bonoa Strait, 5 miles wide in its
narrowest and S.W. part. It is quite clear on the North side, but the
Ceram coast is skirted by a series of islets and rocks, which require care.
Ada Reef lies 3 miles West of the West extreme of the North coast of
Bonoa.

The islands which lie between this and Bouro, forming the East side of the
Bouro or Manipa Strait, have been mentioned on pages 823-4, ante.

The South Coast of Ceram has but few particulars to interest the seaman.
It is deeply indented by the different bays at its western end. Seal Point, its
S.W. extreme, is the end of the long peninsula above mentioned, and 4
miles North of the Three Brothers, which lie off the N.W. end of Amboina.
Piero Bay, 28 miles wide, penetrates the S.W. part of Ceram, opposite to
Amboina, and thus forms a wide portion of the strait limited to the South
by Amboina and the islands East of it.

Amahai Bay, East point, is 30 miles N.E. by E. from the N.E. point of
Saparua. The bay extends in an E.N.E. direction for 23 miles, and on the
North side of its eastern point is a secure anchorage called Amahai Roads.
It was surveyed in 1862 by Lieut. Koning. The outer bay is named by the
natives Elpapoetie Bay, and in the centre of it there are no soundings, and
the shores are very steep-to.

The Inner Bay is limited by Tanjong Koeahho on the West, of moderate
height, and on the East by Tanjong Mapoei, higher, and covered with trees.
At the head of the bay is the small village of Amahai, where there is a small
Dutch fort and garrison, the flagstaff of which is in lat. 3° 19' 30" S., long.
128° 56' 7" E. It is high water at noon, and the rise is 3 ft. In coming in,
you may pass round Point Koeakho within a ship's length, and avoid the
reef which projects from the eastern side nearly two-thirds over, and may
be seen by the colour of the water. There are some bamboo stalks on it,
and there is sometimes a bathing-house. Anchor with Point Koeakho bear-
ing N.W. by W., and Point Mapoe N.N.E., the cupola on the reef N. | E.,
and the flagstaff of the controller's house E.S.E. f E. in 8 fathoms with 40
fathoms of cable.

( 8.55 )

WESTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF NEW GUINEA.

The COAST of NEW GUINEA, which fronts the Molucca Islands, is
chiefly known to us from the voyage of Lieut. Kolfi", in 1826. "We take the
following from the extracts made from his work by Mr. George Windsor
Earl. It is very much out of the way of the ordinary track of ships, and is
never visited by European vessels for trade, and will therefore need but few
remarks. Should the Dutch Government act on the knowledge recently
acquired of this fine island (the greatest area of the world now entirely un-
known, with the exception of a portion of Africa) there may be a necessity
for further nautical information on it. The eastern part of the island, in-
cluding the discoveries of Captain Moresby, in H.M.S. Basilisk, during
the years 1873-4, are described in the South Pacific Directory, chapter xix.

FREDERIK HENDRIK ISLAND, on the S.W. coast, is about 100 miles
long, separated from the mainland by Prinses Marianne or Dour g a Strait, first
determined to be a channel in 1835. The island is everywhere low, appa-
rently marshy, and covered with a dense forest. The entire South coast is
fronted by a mud-bank, extending about 8 miles out to sea, having 3 fathoms
on its verge, from which the depth rapidly increases to 9, 14, and 27 fathoms.
Ahoxit 50 miles to the N.E. of Cape Yalsche the mud-bank begins to decrease
in breadth, so that vessels are enabled to approach the shore.

Cape Valsche, or False Cape, according to Lieut Kolff, is in lat. 8= 22' S.,
long. 137^ 40' E. The northern part of Dourga or Prinses Marianne Strait
is about 15 miles wide, the eastern part being in lat. 7' 23' S., long. 138° 54'
E., and there was no danger discovered by the Dutch ships in beating
through. On the North side of the strait, about 5 miles within the entrance,
is a creek, within which the water is fresh at three-quarters ebb, but difficult
to be got on account of the hostility of the natives, who should be avoided on
all occasions.

The coast from the entrance to the strait extends in a N.N.W. direction to
the False Utanata River. The land is low and covered with forest, and a mud-
bank, which lines the shore, prevents approach within from 4 to 8 miles.
The coast is thickly peopled by inhospitable natives.

The Triton Sandhank, the South side of which is in lat. 6' 0' N., long. 138°
4' E., lies 23 miles ofi" shore, and has 10 fathoms, mud, immediately to the
southward. Providential Banh, lat. 5° 38' S., long. 137° 52' E., has 4, 6, and
7 fathoms immediately to the South of it. It lies 18 miles from the main.

False Utanata River, in lat. 4° 46' S., long. 136° 57' E., is of considerable
size, but a bar of sand extends across its mouth, on which, during the S.E.
monsoon, there is a heavy surf. A vessel may anchor in 13 fathoms to the
westward of the bar ; but a strong swell from the southwai'd, and the reefs
which lie to the N.W., render this anchorage unsafe in the S.E. monsoon.

856 WESTERN PART OF NEW GUINEA.

Fahe Wdkia River, 7 or 8 miles to the northward, is of a similar description.
The shores of these rivers are thickly peopled, but no intercourse with them
was obtained. The coast to the northward of this forms a deep bight, ter-
minating in Cape Steenhoom, lat. 4° 44' S., long. 136° 23' E., across which, in
a line between the cape and the river, lie several shoals, the outermost of
which lies 9 miles S.E. from Cape Steenboom.

Utanata River, in lat. 4° 40' S., long. 136° 15' E., is about 2 miles wide at
its mouth, and is fronted by a bar, on which there is above 6 ft. at low
water. The natives here were more friendly, perhaps arising from more
frequent intercourse with the Ceramese and Makassar traders. To the N.W.
of the Utanata lies the Wamuka River, lat. 4° 39' S., long. 139° 11' E. It is
rather smaller than the former, and, like it, is covered by a bar.

Cape Buru, or Boeroe, lat. 4° 28' S., long. 135° 10' E., is a steep promon-
tory, visible at a distance of 30 miles, with no soundings 4 miles outside.
At 25 miles N.W. by "W. from it is Mount Lahahia, near the coast, 4,526 ft.
high. This is the western of a chain of mountains which thence extends
inland to the eastward, and is known as the Charles Louis Range. At 40
miles North of False Utanata River the elevation is 11,500 ft., and at 56
miles N.E. of the same river the elevation is 14,000 ft.

Cape Perier is N.W. by W. f W., 42 miles from Cape Buru, the coast
between having a few small indentations. Between Cape Perier and Cape
Baudin, 10 miles N.W. from it, is the entrance to Etna Bay, which is 20 or
25 miles deep. Between Etna Bay and Triton Bay, 30 miles to the west-
ward, the coast is fronted by several islands having narrow straits between.
The easternmost of these islands, named Chausot, is 1,600 ft. high, and lies
5 miles westward of Cape Baudin. The westernmost is named Aidumea ; it
is 10 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and forms the eastern side of the entrance
to Triton Bay.

Triton Bay is an inlet extending 6 miles to the N.E. into the mainland.
A chain of five small islands stretches 4 miles W.S.W. from the "West point
of Aidumea, and the fair channel lies between the outermost of these and
Semieuw. Fort Du Bus, a Dutch establishment, is at the head of a small
cove on the North side of Triton Bay, lat. 3° 46' S., long. 134° 3' E. The
cove is 2 miles deep and a mile wide, having at the entrance a depth of 32
fathoms, which decreases to 5 fathoms, mud, at its head, where a vessel may
moor a cable's length from the shore. The channel into the cove is close
to the S.W. side, as a mud bank, nearly dry at low water, extends from the
N.E. side, three-fourths of the width of the cove. High water, full and
change, P 8™ ; rise and fall 7 ft. Water and refreshments may be obtained
here through the Dutch commandant. Iris Strait, the channel by which the
Triton entered the bay, is formed by Aidumea Island to the South and by
Dramaai Island and the mainland to the North. Its South entrance is 2 miles

PULO ADI, ETC. 857

wide, in lat. 4° 2' S., long. 134° 6' E., from which it stretches N.W. by W.
about 6 miles. At 45 miles W.N.W. of the entrance to Triton Bay is the
N.W. corner of Arguna Bay, which is little known.

Pulo Adi, or Wessel Island, which extends W.N.W. and E.S.E. about 25
miles, lies 33 miles to the S.W. of the entrance to Triton Bay. The S.E.
point of the island is in lat. 4° 16' S., long. 133° 34' E., and W.S.^V. of this
point at 9 miles distant is Vogel or Bird Island, surrounded by a reef.

The Nautilus Strait separates Adi from the southern shore of the Orange
Nassau peninsula, on the South side of which is Speelman Bay, before which
lie some islets named Buloffs and Karawari. In Nautilus Strait the western
end of Wessels Island should not be approached within a mile. Sunken
rocks also lie at 3 miles W.N.W. and 5 miles N. by E. of this point. There
is anchorage North of the N.W. point of Wessels Island, southward of some
islands. Plana Islands, two in number, are 5 and 8 miles northward of the
centre of Wessels Island. The district here is under the control in some
measure of the Mysole chiefs. The S.W. part of this portion of the western
peninsula of New Guinea is not known beyond the coasts, which are tolerably
well defined on the chart.

Cape Kaffoera, lat. 4° 5' S., long. 132° 47' E., is 23 miles West of Nautilus
Strait, and here the coast is high and bold, and trends to Cape Sapey, 28
miles to the N.N.W. Near the shore, along the stretch of coast, the land
reaches an elevation of over 3,000 ft., and no bottom was found with 100
fathoms of line at 4 miles westward of it. Cape Kaloeman or Kalomuns is in
4° S., and has several islands northward of it.

Between Cape Sapey and Dree Cap Peninsula, 60 miles to the N.W. ^ N.
from it the district is known as Charles Albert Archipelago. Gudin Island,
6 miles long N.W. and S.E., is 1,200 ft. high, and has a hill at each of its
extremities. Cape Foidlioy, 10 miles northward of it, is in lat. 3° 17' S.,
long. 132° 32' E. It is high, and has a 3-fathom patch \h mile West of it.
At 10 miles N.N.W. of it is Jacobs Island. Gide Isles lie to 7 or 8 miles off
the S.W. part of Dree Cap Peninsula, and eastward of them, at 10 and 15
miles distance, are Roze Island and Coster Island.

Mc Cluer Gulf, or Telok Berow, is an extensive inlet, which reaches within
5 miles of the shores of the Great Geelvink Bay, almost insulating the N.W,
part of New Guinea. This part is under the influence of the Salawatti
chiefs, and, like the rest of the vicinity, is very little known. From the
N.W. point of Mc Cluer Gulf, thus named from Lieut. Mc Cluer, who sailed
up it in 1791, to the western extreme of New Guinea, there are several bays,
but we have no hydrographical particulars of them. The natives are stated
to be numerous, treacherous, and hostile.

Patippi Bay is 7 miles deep, and has its entrance in lat. 2° 41' S., long. 132°
10' E., facing the West. It is on the North side of Drei Cap Peninsula.

I. A. 5 JR

858 WESTERN PART OE NEW GUINEA.

Wass Island, 6 miles westward of the entrance to Patippi Bay, is a small islet
close to the laud, and protecting an anchorage eastward of it. At 16 miles
eastward of the entrance to Patippi Bay is Segaar Bay^ with numerous islets
and rocks lying N.W., North, and East of its entrance. It is high water in
Segaar Bay at 6*^ 30". Springs rise 4 to 6 ft.

The channel between this portion of New Guinea and the East end of
Ceram, and the islands which trend south-eastward from it, and to north-
ward of the Ki and Arru Islands, is apparently clear, and from 65 to 90
miles in breadth. The first island in proceeding north-westward through it
is Saluda or Wonie Melat, off the entrance of McCluer Gulf, the South point
in lat. 2° 40' 8., long. 131° 37' E. To the S.E. of it is a group of islets
called Pisangs.

MYSOLE or Misool, a large island 45 miles long and 15 to 20 broad, is
but little known, though of such considerable extent. The interior is said
to be inhabited by Arafura negroes, and the coast by a mixture of the
negro and Malay races. It is generally level land, and of moderate height,
and the shores are lined almost all around it by a range of small islands,
the outermost of which to the N.W. and E.S.E. lie many miles off. On the
South side is Efhe, which forms a harbour, visited by Capt. Forrest in 1775,
where he was well received by the inhabitants at a small village. Nume-
rous other islets lies off the South side of My sole to a distance of nearly 10
miles in the eastern half of the island. Efhe, the largest island, is in lat.
2° 5' S., long. 130° 11' E.

To the eastward of the S.E. point of Mysole a range of islets and scattered
rocks extend for 14 leagues, terminating to the East in False Pisang — "ba-
nana-island," a common Malay term in these seas.

Off the North coast of Mysole are numerous islets and several sand-
banks, only to be understood by the chart, which extend more than halfway
across the channel between the island and Popa, leaving, however, a clear
route 15 miles in width, and leading towards Pitt Strait.

The Kanari or Canary Islands lie to the N.W. of Mysole, and are an ex-
tensive chain of flat, wooded, uninhabited islands, leaving a narrow passage
between some of the groups which lie close to Mysole. Great Canary is the
westernmost and largest, in lat. 1° 49' S., long. 129" 35' E.

On this island Captain Forrest, on his voyage to New Guinea in 1775, in
search of the nutmeg tree, found good water, in a pond situated on the
South end. He anchored in Round Harbour, so called by him, lying be-
tween two small islands, which are at a small distance on the East side.

To the southward of those islands which front the South shore of Mysole
and the North coast of Ceram the passage, which is 50 miles wide, is safe,
and was partially examined by Lieutenant Briitel de la Riviere, D.E.N.,
in 1850.

POPA. 859

Between My sole and Popa are the groups, little known, called the Vienna
Isles, and Nosela Islands.

FitzMaurice Shoal, of 2 fathoms, is marked in two positions northward of
the Canary Islands. Pigeon Island is in lat. V 42' S., long. 129° 45' E.,
and the shoal is marked 5 miles N. \ W. from it, and at 10 miles N.W.
from it.

In the strait between Mysole and Salwatti are several islands and dangers.
Pinon or West Brother Island lies in the centre of the East part of the strait
northward of the False Pisangs. There is a sand-bank N.W. 7 miles from it.
Efmatal Island, 10 miles off the New Guinea coast, is 20 miles to the E.N.E.,
and N.W. 10 miles from Efmatal is an extensive sand-bank with a depth of
2 fathoms water near the New Guinea coast. Orse Islets, in lat. 1" 33' S.,
long. 130° 61' E., are 2 miles off the coast of New Guinea, and 10 miles east-
ward of the southern entrance to Galewo Strait. Vessels should not pass
inside of them, as some banks lie to the East and West. Vettor Pisani Isles,
two small islets near together, the southern, being in lat. 1°40'S., long. 130°
29' E., lie in the middle of the strait midway between the North point ©f
Mysole and the Orse Islets. A 2f fathom bank, Hesketh Shoal, was reported
in 1876 as lying about 1^^ mile northward of these islets and between them
and the Schilpad Isles. From it Schilpad North Island, the largest and
highest of the group of that name, bore from it N. by E. J E., distant 5 or
6 miles, in latitude 1° 38' S., long. 130° 28' E., 12 miles from the nearest
part of Mysole Island. A sandbank lies 5 miles off the North shore of
Mysole, W.S.W. of Vettor Pisani Isles. Schilpad group, six or seven small
islands, lies about 5 miles northward of Vettor Pisani Isles, and a chain of
islets extends N.W. from them for a distance of 10 or 12 miles. A sunken
rock lies N. by W. 10 miles from the Schilpad group, and another at 15
miles N. ^ W. from it.

POPA, Popo, or Poppa, 42 miles North of the West end of Mysole, is
inhabited. Its East point is in lat. 1° 8' S., long. 129° 53' E. Including
the adjacent islands which surround its S.W. and West sides, it is 18 miles
from East to West, and 9 miles in breadth. It has two remarkable hills on
its West part, which may be seen at a great distance, the one of a semi-
circular form, like a beehive ; the other of an oblong shape ; the rest of the
island being entirely flat. The group of islets off its S.W. part are some-
times called the Tatas. At its N.W. end is a considerable island, called
Calap or Ealap. Deception Island, of the old charts, to the N.E. of Calap,
adjoining the N.W. part of Popa, appears like four separate islands in
passing along the North side of it, having four separate points, each re-
sembling an island until they are closely approached. Close to, and among
these isles which surround the western part of Pulo Popa, there are sound-
ings, but none at 2 or 3 miles distance.

860 WESTEEN PART OF NEW GUINEA.

Grosvenor Hank, 5 miles in extent, with 3 fathoms least water, lies ISmileiS
W.S.W. of the Tatas, in lat. 1° 19' S., long. 129° 23' E.

SAL AW ATI or Salwatti, a large island adjacent to the West end of New
Guinea, is lofty, and inhabited by above 4,000 Arafura negroes. The charts
will give all particulars known.

Galewo Strait, which lies between Salawati and New Guinea is only
known from the examination made of it by Lieut. McCiuer, who went
through it in the Panther and Endeavour. It was called Revenge or Watson
Strait, Captain Watson of the Revenge being the first person who went
through it in 1764. It is much embarrassed by numerous small islands and
shoals, and being out of the direct track of ships it is seldom or never used.
At the North part of it a chain of islands stretches across from the N.E.
point of Salawati to Cajye Spencer on New Guinea. It has been called Foxd
Point by the Dutch, and reefs project from it to the N.W., and from the
adjoining islands to the distaiice of 1| or 2 miles. There are soundings and
various depths throughout Galewo Strait, and there is anchorage in many
places, but at its N.W. part the water is deep very near to the shore.

The North Coast of New Guinea eastward of Cape Spencer is generally
high, but in some places is low near the coast. A short distance inland a
chain of mountains covered with trees, and from 4,000 to 5,000 feet high,
extends parallel with the coast as far as the N.W. point of the Great Geel-
vink Bay.

BATANTA or Battanta, another considerable and lofty island, is also little
known. It lies North of Salawati, and is separated from it by Pitt Strait.
The island is about 30 miles long E. by N. and W. by S. Cape Maho, its
West extremity, is in lat. 0° 56' S., long. 130° 24' E., bearing N.E. by E. ^
E. from the East end of Pulo Popa, 34 miles distant. Off this cape is a
small but high island, Fisher Island, bearing from it W. ^ N. 2 miles. Ba-
tanta and Salawati to the South of it are lofty, and may be seen after a ship
has passed Pulo Popa.

PITT STRAIT was thus named by Capt. Jas. Dewar, who went through
it in the ship Warwick in 1760. The shores of Batanta and Salawati, which
form this strait, are both lofty and steep, and the tides are remarkably rapid,
attended with strong eddies, which render the passage at all times dangerous,
especially if it should happen to fall calm.

There are no soundings going through the strait, except near Salawati, on
the East side of Roggewijn Island, which is a small island at the West
entrance of the strait, and must be passed on the North side in going
through ; and also at a small distance from a shoal orreef of rocks, the Batanta
Reef, 9 miles E. by N., from the East end of Batanta. You must be careful
not to approach them, as the want of anchorage may expose you to danger j

WAIGIOU. 861

for these reasons Pitt Strait is seldom frequented, and Dampier Strait is pre-
ferred, being shorter and wider, with anchoring ground in the narrowest
part.

After a ship is in Pitt Strait, in case of night coming on, without moon-
light, she may haul in for the Salawati shore, where she may anchor, should
occasion require, but it is improper to anchor if it can be avoided. Some
ships have been thrown by the eddies against the North shore of Salawati,
their yards touching the trees, and apprehending great danger. Steer right
through this strait, keeping as near the middle as you can, till near the East
end of Batanta ; then haul over to the southward toward Jackson's Island,
to give a berth to the reef off the East end of Batanta. It runs a consider-
able distance from that end of the island, having 3i and 4 fathoms on
some parts of it, but there is a greater depth on the West and South sides of
it, where a ship may anchor, if the tide is carrying her towards the shoal
part of the reef. Jackson's Island is high, and lies off the N.E. end of
Salawati.

When past the reef you may steer for Point Pigot, which is the S.E. point
of the Island Waigiou ; and when to the eastward of it you are in the
Pacific Ocean, taking care to avoid the Buccleugh Shoal at 12 miles N.E. by
E. from Point Pigot ; and another shoal, 3 miles South of the western of two
islet?, which lie off Point Pigot to the southward.

WAIGIOU is a considerable island, 64 miles long, to the northward of
Batanta. Its North shore is just South of the equator. It is generally hilly
in the interior, the highest peak. Cone de Beiiffle or BuffaWs Horn, was esti-
mated by the officers of the French surveying ship, La Coquille, under
DUrville, at 1,516 ft. The climate is moist and hot, and the people on the
coast, which in some places is low, are said to be a cross between the Malay
and the Papuan negro. Sago is their chief food ; rice is unknown.

Captain Forrest explored the northern coast of Waigiou in January and
February, 1775. The coast is described as generally bold, but reefs extend
from some of the points and small isles near the shore. Within the harbours
fresh water may be obtained.

Piapis is situated about 3 leagues from the S.W. end of the island. Rocks,
on which the sea generally breaks, project to the W.N.W., about a quarter
of a mile from the western point of the entrance. They may be avoided by
steering in about S.E., and keeping towards the West point. Off the latter
is a haycock rock, about 15 ft. high, and standing in 10 fathoms of water.

The entrance, rather more than a quarter of a mile in breadth, has from
30 to 20 fathoms water. The depth thence decreases. A ship may haul
round the haycock rock, and anchor to the S.W. of it, in 15 or 20 fathoms,
muddy bottom. Fresh water may be procured at a pool on the island within,
which has a hill on it. Between this island and the western shore there are
rocks, leaving a passage of 8 fathoms close to the island, and of 6 fathoms

862 WESTEEN PART OF NEW GUINEA.

close to the shore in a cove at the S.W. side, where a ship may be careened.
At the bottom of the eastern branch there is good timber for masts, and a
email brook of water may be found near two peaked hills. On the small but
high island Sipsipa, which forms the eastern po'int of the entrance, there is
a pool of fresh water.

Nearly midway between the harbours of Piapis and OflFak, there is a small
island called the Shoe; thiis named from its appearance. Three remarkable
peaks will be seen in sailing along the coast ^ of these the first or western
peak is represented at 2 miles to the eastward of Piapis ;. the second or
middle peak to the S.S.E. of the Shoe ; and the third or East peak to the
southward of Offak. The latter, from its peculiar figure called the Buffaloes
Horn, is mostly covered with trees, and very steep.

Offali Earhour is 31 miles to the eastward of Piapis.' Being surrounded by
high land, it is not readily discernible at a distance. At the entrance, on
the eastern side, is a sugar-loaf hill, about 500 feet in height, and the Buf-
falo's Horn above mentioned standing inland will be seen. The latter in a
line with the Sugar-loaf bears S.S. W.

The breadth and depths of the entrance are nearly the same as those of
Piapis. The course in is about S. by W., keeping some rocky islets, like hay-
cocks, which lie near the eastern point, on the port side. Within, the harbour
extends considerably; on one side to the eastward, on the other to the S.W.

To the southward, fronting^ the entrance, are two islands connected by a
reef; the outer one has a pool of fresh water on it, and a reef extends from
its western end. On the South side of the isle and reef are from 12 to ft
fathoms, over a muddy bottom; but there are from 26 to 20 fathoms midway
between it and the entrance. A little way within the eastern point is a
small sandy cove with 10 fathoms, and a stream of fresh water.

Pulo Manouaran, at a league from the coast, lies 3^ leagues from th©
entrance of Offak Harbour, in the direction of N.W. by W. The isle is of
moderate height, and has a pool of fresh water on it, and an islet close to its
N.W. point. There are soundings from it to the East and West, and a safe
channel within, varying in depth from 10 to 20 fathoms.

Rawak. — This harbour is situated at about 5 leagues from Offak. It is
formed by the isle called Pulo Rawah, which is separated from the island of
Waigiou by a narrow channel. The larger entrance, about half a mile wide,
is from the eastward, with depth decreasing from 17 to 10 fathoms. A ship
may be sheltered here from all winds, excepting those from between East
and N.E. Water may be obtained from two streams on the Waigiou shore,
which is inhabited.

At 8 miles E.N.E. of Pawak Island is a shoal, and in the same direction
6 miles from it a 41 fathom bank.

Boni Ha/rhour, 6 miles eastward of Eawak, has its entrance filled with shoals^

DAMPIER STRAIT, or Gemen, or Gamien, is formed by Batanta Island

DAMPIER STRAIT. 863

to the South and Waigiou to the North. It is named from the great English
navigator who first explored it. It is 70 miles long from Cape Mabo, the
West point of Batanta, to Cape Pigot, the S.E. point of Waigiou. But the
narrower and difficult part of the strait is only 30 miles long, and is north-
ward of Batanta. Gamen is the largest of several islands on the North side
of the strait, and appears as part of the South coast of Waigiou, being sepa-
rated from it only by narrow channels leading into an extensive inlet.

Chabrol Bay is to the eastward of this inlet. It extends in a W.N.W.
direction across the island to within 1^ or 2 miles of the western arm of
Ofi'ak Harbour, and within 2 J miles of Ports Buperrey and i)' Vrville, nearly
cutting through the island. On the western side of Chabrol Bay two other
bays branch from it ; and at its northern extremity is a safe harbour named
Port Blosseville by the officer of La Coquille, lat. 0° 5' S., long. 130° 40' E.

King William IslancL, to the southward of Gamen, and on the North side
of the strait, is high, with a white patch on its eastern extremity ; it may be
seen 12 or 13 leagues off, and when first discerned in coming from the east-
ward, three hills on it appear like separate islands. Contiguous to the East
end of King William Island, is Hump Island, with a round rocky islet a
short distance outside of it, and two shoals N.W. from it. Several small
islets lie near the Waigiou shores.

Augusta and Pigeon Islands are very low, and lie in the middle of the strait
to the southward of the West end of King William's Island ; the western-
most is Augusta, and the easternmost Pigeon Island. Foul Island lies be-
tween the East end of King William's Island, and the North shore of Ba-
tanta, but nearest to the latter. It is a small, level island, and the channel
is between it and King William Island. Due East of Foul Island is a small
white sandbank, part of which is covered with tall trees, and is called
Mansjield Island. This island is on the South side of the strait. There are
several others between it and Batanta, but scarcely to be distinguished
from Batanta, being very near that island. The passage between King
William Island and Waigiou is unsafe.

Woodford Shoals are two 4-fathom patches, which lie respectively at 7 and
10 miles S.W. from Augusta Island, and are described presently.

On leaving Pulo Popa, if the wind should be northerly, haul up N.E. or
N.E. by N., so as to be able to lie round the N.W. end of Batanta, observing
not to approach near the Tameay Isles, a chain of islands lying to the west-
ward of Batanta, 8 or 9 leagues from Cape Mabo ; these islands are not well
known, therefore it is proper to give them a good berth, by borrowing on
Batanta, the West end of which is perfectly clear of danger ; and when 3 or
4 leagues to the N.E. of Fisher's Island, there are soundings as far as Foul
Island. Being to the northward of Fisher's Island, a ship should not ex-
ceed 3 or 4 leagues distance from Batanta, as to the westward of Augusta
Island there are some coral patches, called the Woodford Shoals, not perfectly

864 WESTEEN PAET OF NEW GUINEA.

known. There is a spot on which the Augusta had only 3 or 4 fathoms,
which bears W. by S. 2 leagues from Augusta Island ; another spot, on
which the Mansfield had 6 fathoms, bears about W.S.W. 4 miles from Au-
gusta Island ; and it is probable there may be less water on some of these
patches. The soundings in these straits are in general irregular, the bottom
gravel, with coral and shells in some places ; you have from 30 to 60 fa-
thoms, until 2 or 3 miles to the eastward of Pigeon Island. There is a bank
extending eastward from this island 4 or 5 miles, with moderate depths on
it for anchorage, the bottom mostly sand and gravel. There is 5^ fathoms
coral rock, with Pigeon Island W. by S. 1| mile ; but deepens to 10 and 12
fathoms, sand, when 3 or 4 miles eastward from this island. To the north-
ward the water deepens fast towards the East end of King William's
Island, there being no ground at 1 mile distant from it, with 90 fathoms of
line. It also gets deeper in standing towards the shoal which surrounds
Foul Island ; this is called Vansittarf s Shoal, extending 3 miles to the N.W.
of Foul Island, and then trenches directly to the southward, till it reaches
Batanta ; from its N.W. extreme the North verge of it extends in a line
directly East, towards the East end of Batanta, Mansfield Island lying on the
northern edge of it. When you have passed at the distance mentioned from
the Batanta shore, and Augusta Island bears N.E. by E., you should then edge
over towards it and Pigeon Island, to keep at a proper distance from the
N.W. part of the Vansittart's Shoal, by not coming nearer Foul Island than
6 or 6 miles, when it bears East, nor within 4 miles when it bears to the
southward. Augusta and Pigeon Islands may be approached on the South
side to a small distance if necessary, as the coral flat does not extend far out
to the southward from them. There is a channel between these two islands,
but it is narrow and intricate. Augusta Island is the easiest for landing on,
to cut wood ; but on the ebb tide care is requisite, to prevent boats from
receiving inj ury on the sharp coral rocks. If you see Mansfield Island, it is
a good guide for the shoal spots which the Augusta and Mansfield were upon.
Keep it on with the South part of Foul Island, and you will go clear to the
southward of them both ; and when within 3 miles of that island, pass on
the South side of them, at any convenient distance. When to the eastward
of Pigeon Island, and you have it bearing West from 3 to 5 miles, you shoal
to 10 or 12 fathoms, but borrow over toward Foul Island, you will deepen,
there being 60 fathoms irregular, close to the North and N.W. verge of
the Yansittart's Shoal, the verge of which is thought to be steep and dan-
gerous. When Foul Island bears S. by E. or South, there are no more
soundings, and you are clear of danger ; only do not near Batanta so as to
be in a line with Foul and Mansfield Islands, as that line borders on Van-
sittart's Shoal.

When past Foul Island steer for Point Pigot ; along the Waigiou shore
you will see several small islands lying close to that point, which appear like

PITT'S PASSAGE. 865

inlets of a river. If the wind be from the northward, keep near Point Pigot,
so as to be able to keep at a tolerable distance from New Guinea, when clear
of the strait. Point Pigot is the S.E. end of Waigiou ; it is moderately
high, and two small islands, with a sandbank 3 miles S.S.W. of the western-
most, lie at a very little distance from it ; its latitude is 0° 19' S., long. 131°
ir E. The N.W. point of New Guinea is low, but after you have got a few
leagues to the eastward of Point Pigrot, all the North coast is vei-y high and
mountainous. Between Point Pigot and New Guinea the passage is about
8 leagues wide ; when outside, a ship should make to the eastward till she
gets sufficient easting to pass to the eastward of the Pelew Islands, giving a
reasonable distance to the North coast of New Guinea.

Buccleugh Bank is 8 miles eastward of the eastern side of "Waigiou Island.
It is 5 miles in diameter, the shallowest part, of 2 and 3 fathoms, lying on
its western side, N.E. by E. 10 miles from Point Pigot, and the same distance
S.E. from Cape Lamarche, the N.E. point of Waigiou.

In Dampier's Strait the tide seems very irregular, and yery strong at
times ; between Pulo Popa and Batanta, in the S.E. monsoon, there is often
a current setting to the northward, but at times there is no current. In the
N.W. monsoon, from September to April, the prevailing ciirrent is southerly ;
although, at times, it may be liable to deviations.

Between Point Pigot and New Guinea the tide appears to run sometimes
12 hours in and out; but the tide setting to the eastward is generally the
strongest in this part in both monsoons.

In the narrow part of Dampier's Strait, between Foul Island and Au-
gusta and Pigeon Islands, the tide to the S.W. appears to be the strongest,
in the southerly monsoon, and continues to run longer than the tide out of
the strait.

In July and August, at anchor, about 4 miles eastward of Pigeon Island,
the tide to the eastward has been observed seldom to run longer than 5
hours ; often weak, with a long interval of slack water ; but, at other times,
its velocity, for a short time, when strongest, has been from 4^ to 5 miles
an hour.

At the same times and places it has been observed that the tide to the
westward frequently runs 10 and 11 hours, gradually augmenting in strength
in the first part, setting about W.S.W., from thence S.W. by S., when
strongest about 5 miles an hour, or a little more on high spring tides, and
about 4 miles on the neaps. After running strong S.W. by S. to S.W. for
a few hours, it abates gradually, until it changes and runs to the eastward.

PITT'S PASSAGE, the great channel North of Boeru and Ceram is some-
times called by the Dutch the Ceramese Sea {Ceramsche Zee). It is quite free
from danger, as far as is known, and the charts will show all its hydrogra-
phical features.

I. A. 6 8

866 OBI MAJOE.

OBI MAJOR or Ombirah, " great gain Island," lies on the North side of
Pitt's Passage. It is about 30 miles long East and West, and 15 miles wide.
It is lofty, the highest ,part being about 5,000 ft. high. Over the N.W.
point of Obi Major is a remarkable Muff, with a knob-like summit, higher
than the surrounding forest, which is probably a clump of trees ; the knob
is in lat. 1" 24' S., long. 127° 24' E. Five miles southward of this bluff is a
projecting point which looks like an island. It is surrounded by several
smaller islands, of which Gomona, on the South side, is most conspicuous
from this passage. It is 850 ft. high, round-backed, and its centre is in lat.
1° 50' S., long. 127° 3b' E., bearing from the East point of Lisa Matula of
the Xulla Islands, East 55 miles.

Sophia Reef lies midway between the North point of Gomona and Pocky
Point, the West point of Obie Major, which should not be approached withiu
2 miles.

Ohie Latta is 6 miles in diameter, and attains an elevation of about 2,400
feet ; upon it are three or four sharp, well-defined peaks, of nearly equal
height, the highest point being in lat. 1° 25' S., long. 127° 18' E. Its centre
is 8 miles N.N.W. of Rocky Point.

Typa Island, off the N.W. point of Obie Major, is 10 miles long E.S.E. and
W.N.W., is about 1,000 ft. high, and rises in a single round-backed hill, its
summit being in lat. 1° 12' S., long. 127° 23' E.

Numerous tide rips were passed through westward of the Obie Islands by
H.M.S. Challenger.

The Bahia Reef lies 25 miles N.W. by W. from Obi Latta, and 30 miles
S.W. from Mandolie. It is a dangerous coral reef, announced in December,
1858, as having been discovered by the ship Bahia, striking and dragging
heavily on it, lat. 1° 10' S., long. 126° 50' E.

Lukisong or Loyang, " Landscape Island," lies off the East end of Obi
Major. It is sometimes called in the old charts Great Pulo Gasses. Its South
end is in lat. 1° 43' S., long. 128° 2'. It is 9 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W.,
and of moderate height, well wooded, stretching with a remarkably even
slope that forms its northern extremity. The channel inside it is very nar-
row, and subject to calms, owing to the adjacent high land, and is therefore
not recommended for ships. A small island, Long Island, lies off the North
end of Lukisong or Lookisong.

Pulo Gasses is 7 or 8 miles eastward of Lukisong, and nearly of the same
height, a flat table-land for about three-fourths of its extent, sloping down
to each end with a spit of rocks, stretching about a cable's length from the
S.E. end, which is in lat. 1° 38' S., long. 128° 14' E. The island has a sandy
bgach, but no soundings at 1 or 2 miles off. The channels on either side
are safe ; that to the westward may be used with a westerly wind, but that
to the eastward is wider, and seems better with a working wind.

THE GILOLO PASSAGE. 867

The Courier Rock, a five-feet shoal, seen in 1845, bears N.W. ^ N., about
26 miles from Gasses, and 8 miles North of the N.E. point of Obi Major.

Talhot Shoal was reported in 1873, by the master of the vessel of that
name, in lat. 1° 51' 30" S., long. 128° 8' E., with the East side of Gasses
bearing N.N.E., and High Peak on Gomona W.N.W. ; where the latest
charts mark no bottom at 70 fathoms. The sea was nearly smooth, and
ship sailing from 5 to 6 knots per hour, steering S.S.W. She grated over
for about three times her own length. The extent of the shoal S.S.W. and
N.N.E. would be about 500 ft. Before we had time to pass the lead we
were in deep water. This shoal lies directly in the fairway between Manipa
Straits and the entrance to Gillolo Passage. The bottom must be of dark-
coloured rocks, as there was not the slightest discolouration of water, or any
appearance whatever to indicate danger. Time of accident, 3.30 p.m. Tide,
half-ebb.

Kekik, a high island, bears N.E. by E. | E. 20 miles from Gasses, in lat.
1° 30' S., long. 128" 35' E. Laun, about 6 miles eastward of Kekik, is also
a high island, with an islet off each side of it, and another in the form of a
button, between it and Kekik.

Pisang, the highest of these islets, forms two hills resembling each other,
and may be seen 30 or 35 miles off; in lat. T 23' S., long. 128° 49' E. The
Nabob Shoal, ot 3i- fathoms, lies 16 miles North of Pisang.

The Bee or Bu Islands lie 24 miles E.N.E. of Pisang ' They form a group
of ten or twelve small, low islands, 15 or 16 miles West from the West end
of Papa (page 859), the channel between being safe. These islands are in-
habited, and produce cocoa-nuts. A few goats and some dried fish perhaps
may be procured.

Captain Jacob B. Brown, of the American barque Agate, writes to the
" Shipping and Mercantile Gazette" as follows : — " On a voyage from New
York for Shanghai, January 25, 1877, the barque ^^a^e struck upon reefs
off Boe Islands, which, in the latest charts, are laid down as deep water.
These islands are laid down in 1° 10' S., and 129° 20' E. There are various
reefs making off from Boe Islands, extending, by good observation, to 1^
14 J' S. ; depth of water, 2, 2^, 2i, and 3 fathoms. Most of the islands ap-
pear to be connected by coral reefs. This group of islands lies in the direc-
tion of E.S.E. and W.N.W. A rock appears from the mast-head between
the Boe Islands and Popa, about 4 miles from the former. I should recom-
mend extreme caution in navigating about these islands. There is a safe
anchorage between the two westward of the reefs in 12 fathoms of water."

The McCleur Bank, a dangerous coral shoal, 19 ft., has been said to lie in
the channel to the westward, 2 miles in extent, and bearing W. by S. 20
miles from the Boe Islands, and E.N.E. from Pisang.

The GILOLO PASSAGE or Strait, between Halmaheira on the West, and
the islands of Mysole, Waigiou, &e., on the East, may be said to commence

868 GTLOLO PASSAGE.

to the north-jrard of the islands just described, and is preferred by some to
the narroTrer Dampier Strait, to the eastward, for passing into the Pacific
Ocean from Pitt's Passage. Having avoided the neighbourhood of Talbot
Shoal above described, enter it between Gasses and Kekik, haul cloae around
the South end of the former, to prevent being carried past the channel by
the current, which frequently sets to the eastward. After rounding Gasses,
the loftier parts of the Dammer Islands, off the South end of Halmaheira,
will rise in sight from the deck. They first appear in form of a saddle, the
southernmost being in lat. 1° 11' S., bearing N.N.E. 26 or 27 miles from the
North end of Lukisong. They will be described presently, the islands and
shoals which lie in the passage will follow.

Black Rocks or Fairioay Ledge, bears about E.N.E., 6 miles from the
southernmost of the Dammer Islands, They are a low ridge of rocks, about
2 miles in extent E.N.E. and W.S.W., a part of which, near the East end,
is about the size of a small ship's hull above water. The breakers continue
toward Dammer beyond the rocks. They, therefore, should be carefully
avoided in the night, by giving a wide berth to them, for there are no
soundings to guide.

Anchorage. — Captain Collins, of the American vessel Brewster^ reports as
follows : —

At the southern entrance of Gillolo Passage, 5 miles South of the ' Black
Eocks,' I was becalmed, and experienced a three-knot current, setting about
S.S.E., which drifted the ship towards Toppershead or Button Island.
When within 4 miles of it, saw bottom plainly ; let go my kedge anchor in
14 fathoms — Toppershead Island bearing S. by E., distant 3^ to 4 miles.

This bank extends East and West, how far I was not able to ascertain,
but another vessel anchored about 3 miles East of me, on the same bank,
therefore I think it extends as far as from Lawn Island to Kekik Island.
Pound 50 fathoms between the bank and the islands, and 15 fathoms within
a cable's length of Toppershead Island.

There were nine other vessels in company, and had they known of this
anchorage they could ail have availed themselves of its convenience, and
thus escaped the anxiety and trouble incidental to being drifted about at
the mercy of the tides and currents. In my own case, I think I should have
lost the ship on Toppershead Island, had it not been for the anchorage on
the bank.

I am sorry that I cannot give you a more accurate description of it. I
lay at anchor 24 hours (2nd of December, 1868), after which the current
changed, setting strong to the N.W., enabling me to proceed on my passage.
The vessel anchored with me had 12 fathoms; it may possibly be much
ehoaler in some parts.

The Wida or Weedah Islands form two compact groups of low wooded
islands, the southernmost bearing N. \ W. from Kekik, and N.N.E. from

GEBI OR GEBEH— row ISLAND. 86»

the South point of Halmaheira, 10 or 12 miles, in lat. 0°40'S. The northern
group is 8 or 9 miles "W.N.W. of the other. They lie on the -western side of
the passage, and seem to be safe to approach, though very steep-to.

Veldman Roch is 6 miles northward of the eastern group, in lat. 0° 27' S.,
long. 128° 24' E.

To the northward of Popa there is a line of islands, of which we have no
account. On the Dutch charts they are named Vlaming, the south-western-
most Schooteroog, Klaarheck, and Kommerust the north-easternmost, which lies
12 miles W.S.W. of the western island of the Tameay group.

GEBI or Gebeh, a large island, on the N.E. part of Gilolo Strait, is
long and narrow, about 21 miles long E.S.E. and W.N.W. It is hilly, but
not exceeding 500 ft. high ; the formation is probably sandstone, not vol-
canic. The aborigines are Papuans, but there are settlers from the Mo-
luccas, who own the sovereignty of the Sultan of Tidore. Their chief em-
ployment is fishing for trepang and pearl oys^^ers. The north-western part
is rather low, but the other end is high, and terminates in a bluff point. The
N.W. point is very nearly, or quite, on the Equator, Capt. Duperrey placing
it in lat. 0° 2' N., long. 129' 19', while Lieut. McCleur gives it as 0° 0'. It
bears from Moar off Cape Tabo, on Halmaheira, E. by S. I S. 21 miles, and
this forms the narrowest part of the Gilolo Passage.

Few Island lies off its S. W. side. It has a peaked hill on its South point,
and is separated from the southern shore of Gobi by a narrow channel, about
a quarter of a mile wide, which forms a safe harbour, much frequented by the
whalers, with depths of from 10 to 15 fathoms. There is a passage into it
on either side of Fow Island, by passing close to the latter, for a shoal lies
in mid-channel in the West entrance, with good depths around. In the
South entrance there are two small shoals close to each other, the best chan-
nel being between them and the East side of Fow. In the bay to the east-
ward of these shoals there is anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms, near the Gobi
shore, the chief village, Eetchepee, being about 2 miles distant, on the East
side of the island.

At 1 mile off the Gebi shore to the S.E. in the bottom of the bay, distant
If to 2 miles, is a fresh-water stream or creek with excellent water, into
which onr boats went at half-flood and filled the casks from alongside, but at
low water as there is a bar, your boats must anchor outside, land the casks
and roll them a short distance up the hill, in which case you have to raft
them off, which may be done with ease and expedition, as the water is
perfectly smooth, and must be so during the whole of the N.W. monsoon.
A ship tolerably well manned would have no difficulty in filling twenty or
thirty tons in the course of the day. From the mouth of the creek the South
point of Fow Island bears by compass W. ^ N., and may also be known by
a bluff cliff or headland, the only one in the bay, rising in a gentle slope of
table-land from the top of the cliff towards the hills to the S.E.

87a THE GILOLO PASSAGE.

Spars fit for yards and masts abound on either shore ; vegetables, fruits,
and fish are also procurable in abundance from the natives, who are very
friendly and kind, many of them speaking English, Fow Harbour being
much frequented by whalers.

On the N.E. side of Fow a narrow channel fronting Gebi Harbour stretches
into the island close to the peaked hill, and forms an excellent port or basin,
■with 4 or 5 fathoms in the narrow entrance, and from 10 to 16 fathoms
within. The fresh water rivulet is on the Gebi shore opposite the North
point of Fow. Tide rises 5 ft. at springs.

The N.E. side of Gebi is steep-to without anchorage, and the islands Yoe
and Utu or Oetoe^ about 3 miles northward of the East point, are small and
low.

Gagy is of considerable extent, being about 22 miles S.E. by E. from the-
S.E. end of Gebi, North end, lat. 0° 20' S., long. 129° 55' E. It is moder-
ately elevated, formed of uneven hummocks, having some small islets S.W.
of it, called Doif (or Dove), and a large group called the Banffapally IslandSy
to the eastward, off the S.W. end of Waigiou. Between these and Gagy
there is a passage, and the channel between Gagy and Gebi is very safe,
having an islet near the South end of the latter. This channel is sometimes
taken by ships going outward, and may probably be advantageous to those
coming towards Pitt's Passage during the S.E. monsoon.

Syang, in lat. 0° 20' N., long. 129° 52' E., is 40 miles N.E. by E. ^ K
from the N.W. end of Gebi. It is a low, flat island, about 3 miles in extent,
with fresh water at a rocky point near its N.W. end, from whence a reef
projects three-quarters of a mile. Eye Island, off the North end of Syang,
is small and low, and covered with trees. There is said to be a bank, having
10 or 11 fathoms over it about 5 or 6 miles East of Syang.

Wyang or Vayag, 9 miles S.E. from Syang, is the northernmost of a
range extending off the N.W. end of Waigiou. Yen is the easternmost.
Ruih, the largest and highest, lat. 0° 2' S., is the southernmost, and is
surrounded by rocks which contract the passage between it and Waigiou.
This has been called the Bougainville or French Passage, as it was explored by
the French expedition under Bougainville.

The channels among these islands are probably safe in many parts, but
require care, as the French corvette Urame found a coral bank of 6 fathoms,
5 miles N.W. by N. from the North end of Kuib.

Ormsbee Shoal, least water 15 fathoms, bearing N. ^ W. from Wyang. in
lat. 0° 42' N., long. 130° 0' E., that island and Syang being visible from the
masthead. Nearer to Halmaheira there are several shoals, which will be
described with that island.

Captain J. W. Eoy, of the Chusan, writes as follows to Lloyd's agent at
Iloilo: — "As some doubt appears to exist as to the extent of the Ormsbee
Shoal, North of the entrance of Gillolo Passage, I beg to hand to you a few

HALMAHEIRA OR GILOLO. 871

remarks made while passing the South end of the above shoal on my passage
from London to Shanghai.

"On the 30th of December, 1872, at 8.30 a.m., centre of Syang Island
bore due South ; steered due East 7^ miles by patent log ; the centre of the
island then bore S.S.W. These angles place the ship at the last bearing
N.N.E. 17 miles from Syang Island. At the same time saw rocks under
the ship's bottom ; sounded immediately ; had 7 and 9 fathoms ; then no
ground.

" This appears to be the southern extremity of the shoal, lat. 0° 38' N.,
long. 129° 58' E. ; the bank to the North of the ship at that time appeared
to have much less water, and very smooth. I am sorry that I cannot give
you a more accurate description, as I had to take advantage of the light
breeze then blowing."

DIRECTIONS. — Having entered the Gilolo Passage by the strait on either
side of Gasses, as mentioned previously, if passing to the eastward of that
island, steer about N.N.E. ^E., orif by the western entrance, about N. by E.,
BO as to pass between Point Tabo of Halmaheira and Gobi. In the night,
be careful to give a berth to the Tramway Ledge and to the Wida Islands ;
but it is advisable to keep on the western side of the passage when the winds
are light, as the current sometimes sets to the N.E. or eastward. If the
wind be at N.N.W., so as to occasion delay in working to the westward of
Gebi, pass to leeward between it and Gagy, and then out into the Pacific
through any of the channels near Syang. But the western channel, and
between the Catharina Isles and Syang should be followed if possible, so as
to weather the Aiu and Asia Islands.

HALMAHEIRA or GILOLO is one of the most singularly formed islands
in the world, being a representation of Celebes on a small scale — a junction
of four peninsulas jutting to the eastward and also to the North and South ;
but it is not more than one-tenth of the area of the larger island, and about
half the size of Timor.

The name has been very variously designated. The Dutch, who claim the
sovereignty, now term it Halmaheira, otherwise Almahera, as above, which
probably means " mainland," in distinction from the range of the true
Moluccas on the western side. The name by which it has been generally
placed in geographical works is Gilolo or Jillolo, by the Dutch Djailolo,
which was applied by the early Portuguese to the whole island, from the
name of a kingdom, and now of a town on the S. W. side of the northern
peninsula, near to Ternate.

Its surface is broken, mountainous, and volcanic, the highest point being
6,500 ft. high. From its physical character, and the depth of the surround-
ing ocean, the fertilizing powers of the climate run away into deep water,
and thus the island from this cause and the absence of irrigation is not pro-
ductive. It is covered with a tall forest, among which it is singular that the

872 HALMAHEIRA OR GILOLO.

clove tree is not found, though its native place is in the islands adjacent to
it on the West. The absence of this and of other articles of commercial
production, have left the natives (a rude and inoffensive people) in a com-
paratively uncivilized state. The original natives are a brown com-
plexioned race, speaking peculiar languages, but the coast is usually occu-
pied by Malays, who, like the rest of their race, are much addicted to a sea-
faring life.

The island is subject to the Dutch nation, and is divided between the
governments of the Sultan of Ternate, who has the northern and half the
southern peninsula, and that of the Sultan of the next island, Tidore, who
holds the central portion of the island. Its three bays on the eastern side
are open, and have no good harbours, but this is of less importance in a sea
never troubled by storms. Our hydrographical knowledge of this and its
adjacent islands is most imperfect, and what will be said here is little more
than an enumeration of the points.

Dammer Island, before mentioned, lies off the South point, and to the
southward of it there are numerous islets and rocks, extending to a consider-
able distance to the South and S.W.

Tanjong Libobo or Cocoa-nut Point, lat. 0° 51' S., long. 128° 23' E., is the
southern point of Halmaheira. There is a knob on it, but the land near it
is rather low and uneven. Pulo Bali (or Ordal), which lies off this point, is
small, and lies in the entrance of the strait between Dammer and Halma-
heira, which is too narrow for ships. The Wida Isles, which lie to the
N.N.E. of Libobo Point, have been before mentioned.

Wida or Weedah Bay, as the south-easternmost bay of Halmaheira is
called, takes its name from a village lying on its western side near the head.
It is 63 miles wide in the entrance, and about the same depth. We have
no useful particulars concerning it.

Cape Tabo, in lat. 0° 10' N., long. 128° 51' E., is the north-easternmost
point of this bay. It has a gradual slope, ending in a bluff to seaward, and,
when bearing N.W. by N., some white cliffs are seen near it. The land
about it is lofty, and over the point there rises a quoin-shaped hill, the
highest point to the westward. Pulo Moar, off the extremity of Cape Tabo,
is low, flat, and woody, and connected with the cape by rocks and breakers.
Close to the East point of those there is a small islet, in lat. 0" 9' N., long.
128° 66' E. There are several villages near this part of Halmaheira.

The Shanpee Islands, a group three or four in number, lie 15 miles North
from Cape Tabo. They extend 3 or 4 leagues North and South, and are
mostly level, of considerable size, with a small elevation between the central
part and northernmost island. The Recovery Rock, a round islet or rock,
about half a mile in circuit, with a few shrubs on it, lies about 10 miles
S.W. by W. from the next group, the Catherine Islands. These are three
small low islands near each other, forming the western side of the Nortlx

MORTI. 873

entrance to the Gilolo Passage. They are about 1^ mile long, lying W. by
N. and E. by S., low, and steep-to on the southern side, which appears to
be steep as a wall, except near the East end, where there is a small sandy
cove. The Canton Packet Shoal consists apparently of white sand and black
rocks, very near the surface, about mid-channel between the Shanpee and
Catherine Islands, lat. 0° 40' N., long. 129' 4' E. The Ardassier Rock is
N.W. of the Catherine Islands, in lat. 0° 45' N., long. 129° E. The Aurora
Bank is the easternmost of these, and is of small extent. Although 8 fa-
thoms was the least depth found on it on its discovery, yet a whaler has
stated that there is only 5 ft. in some parts, which must very much diminish
the safety of the Gilolo Passage in rough weather.

Bitjoli or Bitzoli Bay is the eastern or central inlet of Halmaheira, sepa-
rating its N.E. from the S.E. peninsvdas. It has numerous islets and rocks
scattered over it. It takes its name from a village on its South shore, where
there is a Dutch sub-resident. Chiaico Bay is the north-easternmost of the
inlets, which give Halmaheira its bizarre configuration. We have no
account of it. On the north-eastern side of the northern peninsula is
Gunonrj Karakan, the highest point of the island.

Tanjong Batu Bessao is in lat. 2° 14' N., long. 127° 33' E. This part of
Halmaheira is high, bold land, with three high, remarkable peaks. There
are several islands, called collectively the Tale^iading Islands, to the N.W. of
the point, the northern of which, Dili, is in 2° 17' N., 127° 33' E. They are
of moderate height.

MORTI, or Morotai, or Morty, is the northernmost of the Molucca group.
It is about 58 miles long North and South, and 10 to 12 miles broad. The
North cape is in lat. 2° 44' N., long. 128° 21' E. It slopes down from the
high table land into a point which forms this cape. The northern end is
skirted by a reef which extends 1 or 2 miles off, having no soundings close-
to, with some small islands adjoining.

Riao or Riow Island lies off the western side of Morti, separated by a small
strait. In the bay between the N.E. part of Eiao and Morti there is said to
be anchorage, with fresh water, abundance of wild hogs, deer, pigeons, &c.,
on the islands contiguous.

The Western Coast of Halmaheira trends to S.S.W. for about 63 miles,
to the point which forms the north-western extremity of the bay, in which
lies the village of Gilolo or Djailolo, which, as has been before mentioned,
gave its name to the island. After the terrible earthquake of 1840, which
devastated the adjacent and chief island Ternate, this place was proposed as
a fitting one to remove the seat of government to, but nothing was carried
into effect.

The point of Gilolo nearest to Hieri Island lies from Hieri Peak N.E. | N.
8 miles. Over this point is a hill, 1,050 ft. high ; 3 miles north-eastward of

I. A. 5 T

874 THE MOLUCCA ISLANDS.

the hill there is a remarkable sharp peak of 3,450 ft. ; and about 8 miles
still farther northward a flat-topped hill with four peaks on it will be seen.

Bodingo Bay, to the eastward of Ternate and Tidore, has the village of
Sedangoli on its North side, and that of Dodingo at its head — places of some
importance among others which are quite insignificant. From this bay the
western coast of Halmaheira trends to S.S.E. for about 110 miles to the
South point, before alluded to. There is nothing particularized concern-
ing it.

The MOLUCCA ISLANDS properly consist of the five islands next enu-
merated, which lie against the West coast of Halmaheira. The name is
unknown among the native languages, though applied by the early Portu-
guese discoverers. The term has had a much more widely-spread significa-
tion by including the islands East and N.E. of Celebes, but originally it was
restricted, as above said, to the five islands in question. They were formerly
considered the principal of the Spice Islands, but had ceased to be so from
the destruction of the trees by the Dutch. They are, however, regaining
their reputation for spice-bearing and nutmegs ; cinnamon is also grown
to a great extent; pepper is largely cultivated, as also are cofi'ee and
cocoa ; the sago-bearing palm flourishes in every part of the island. They
also now produce what the others do not, and which is more thought of by
the passing seamen, viz., a tolerably good supply of provisions, in sheep,
fowls, vegetables, and a greater variety of fruit ; pine-apples, oranges,
lemons, bananas, &c., being plentiful in their seasons.

TERNATE ISLAND lies between the parallels of 0° 45' N. and 0° 52' N.,
and the meridians of 12 7M6i' E. and 127° 22' E. The peak is 5,600 ft.
high, and in lat. 0° 48^' N., long. 127° 19' E. Its shores appeared steep-to,
and with no dangers beyond a few reefs extending off from one quarter to
half a mile.

In the Ternate Channel the flood stream, coming from the north-eastward,
formed numerous tide-rips and eddies, which gave the appearance of broken
water over a sunken reef.

Ternate is the northernmost and principal of the group, the head quarters
of the Dutch government of its region, and the seat of the Sultan, who claims
sovereignty over a large part of Halmaheira. It is of very small extent,
being, in fact, the mere pedestal on which stands the lofty volcano of the
same name. This volcano produced no fewer than fourteen eruptions, be-
tween 1608 and 1840, and at times has nearly caused the total abandonment
of the island. The peak was ascended without much difficulty by a party
from H.M.S. Challenger. The clove, for which this island was celebrated,
and which was apparently its native seat, has long been almost extirpated
from its soil.

Ternate is a free port, and is visited regularly by the Netherlands India
Steam Navigation Company's boats, the town being on the East side of the

TERNATE ISLAND. 875

island. Fort Oranje, which protects it, is in lat. 0° 47' N., long. 127° 21' E.
The anchorage is abreast the town. The Scaleby Castle anchored in Novem-
ber in 22 fathoms, coarse sand and gravel, with the flagstaff of the fort
bearing N.W. by N. Water was only procurable in small quantities at this
time. It was during this night that one of the most violent of the explosions
before alluded to occurred at the volcano. The town is built along the
shore, half hidden among fruit trees and cocoa-palms. As usual, there are
the Dutch, Chinese, and Malay quarters. Behind the town lies a consider-
able extent of level ground, before the wooded slope of the mountain com-
mences, and a great portion of this is occupied by plantations growing every
spice, fruit, and palm, under the tropical sun ; cloves, pepper, cinnamon,
nutmeg, coffee, cocoa, pine-apples, durians, oranges, limes, citrons, bananas,
bread-fruit, and endless others, with palms of every kind, are here planted
on a green sward, level as a billiard-table." — Lord George Campbell

The Challenger was here in October, 1874, and made purchases of a fine
collection of parrots and other natural history objects. The crew received
much ho pitality at the hands of the inhabitants. As on the other islands
visited in this region, the beautiful tropical vegetation was highly appre-
ciated by those who went into the interior of the island.

The anchorage chosen by H.M.S. Challenger in Ternate Eoad was in 13
fathoms, with the extreme of the North pier extending from the Resident's
house, N. ^ W. ; the extreme of the middle pier, N.N.W. J W. ; the ex-
treme of the South or coaling pier, N.W. by W. ^^ W. ; and Maytara Island
S.S.W. Vessels making more than a temporary stay should moor, as the
holding-ground is bad, and the tide streams strong.

Three piers extend from the island to the edge of the reef, which is com-
posed of sand and coral. The northern pier is used as a landing place, the
middle pier is for the shipment of merchandise, and the southern is the
coaling pier. These piers are lightly built, and would be easily destroyed
by a ship pressing against them.

Two large coal sheds stand upon the shore abreast the coal wharf ; they
are capable of holding 1,000 or 1,500 tons, but at the time of the Challenger's
visit a small quantity only Mas in stock.

There is a depth of 5 fathoms at the outer end of the pier ; and small
anchors are buried on the land to which hawsers may be secured, but, from
the frailty of the pier, anchors off the bow and quarter are necessary.

Supplies are plentiful and moderate in price (October, 1874). Beef, 1.?.
per lb. ; fowls, 8s. per dozen ; ducks, 2s. Qd. to 3s. each ; geese, 6s. to 7s.
each ; sweet potatoes, 5s. per picul of 133 lbs. ; potatoes (imported), 25s. per
picul. Fruit in its season is abundant ; the durien, mangostein, mangoe,
pine-apple, orange, lemon, banana, jack-fruit, and pomegranate grow luxu-
riantly. The coffee and cocoa beans are cultivated, also the arica and sago
palms, the latter supplying the principal food of the inhabitants.

876 THE MOLUCCA ISLANDS.

Birds of paradise skins can be procured in considerable numbers at the
rate of 6s. or 7s. each. As a spice island, Tern ate is growing in importance,
and produces nutmegs, pepper, cinnamon, and cloves.

The Dutch dollar and rupee are the coins in general circulation. An
English shilling is only accepted as half a rupee. Gold in small quantities
can be changed at its full value.

Magnetic sand. — The whole of the sand upon the island proved to be of
such a highly magnetic character that no compass observations could be
made.

I^iV^es.— It is high water, full and change, at Ternate, deduced from one
day's observations, at S*" 10"; springs rise about 4 ft.

The flood stream comes from the northward, and the ebb stream from the
southward, and they run for two hours after high and low water by the
shore.

Winds, Sfc. — From a register, kept by the surgeon of the Dutch settle-
ment at Ternate, extending over a period of 8 years, from 1860 to 1867 in-
clusive, it was deduced that the N.E. monsoon blows through January,
February, and March, the wind varying from N.E. to N.W. After a month
of variable winds, the S.W. monsoon commences in May and ends in Octo-
ber, its direction being from S.E. to S.W. During November and December
the winds are again variable.

Rain fell on 216 days of each year, or 18 days per month; the average
fall during the N.E. monsoon being rather less than during the S.W. mon-
soon.

The mean temperature for each of the above 8 years was 80.7°.
On comparing the records of the weather at Ternate with those at Am-
boina and stations eastward, it would appear that during the periods of their
greatest strength, the N.E. monsoon passing through the Molucca Passage
turns eastward and becomes the N.W. monsoon in the Banda and Arafura
Seas ; and that the S.E. monsoon blowing through the Arafura and Banda
Seas, bends into the Molucca Passage, and joins the S.W. monsoon in the
Pacific.

These changes in the direction of the winds in this locality will be seen to
be a corroboration of those shown on the Admiralty Wind Charts.

Hieri Island, lying to the northward of Ternate, is circular in shape, and
about If mile in diameter; the peak, which is in lat. 0° 54' N., long. 127°
18' E., is 2,200 ft. high. Off the North point of Hieri Island is a rock, and
north-westward of the island is a small islet, both close to the shore.

TIDORE or Tidor is the next southward of Ternate, and is separated from
it by a safe channel. It is larger than Ternate, and, like that island, is
entirely of volcanic formation. The mountain, of which it is chiefly com-
posed, is 6,000 feet high, and its extinct crater is in lat. 0° 39' N., long.
127° 22' 30" E.

TIDORE. 877

The capital of the island, Soa Sia, is on the East side. The Sultan is tri-
butary to the Dutch, but at one period held great sway over a large portion
of central Halmaheira, which is still subject to his influence. The people of
Tidore, about 6,000 in number, are Mohamedans, having been so from early
ages. The town is walled, and contains, besides the Sultan's walled resi-
dence, a large mosque, &c. The anchorage is off the town in 30 fathoms,
sandy bottom, but in several places the ground is foul, with deep water close
to the shore.

Mareh or Potlahhr Island, 1,160 ft. high, is the next in succession to
Tidore, the passage between them being safe and the island bold-to. Two
small sandbanks, dry at low water, lie almost 5 miles East from the middle
of this passage. These banks may be readily seen by their white colour
during the sunshine or daylight, and they are the only known danger in the
passage. They may easily be avoided by keeping on the Halmaheira side
in coming up.

Motir, or Mortier, or Moone, is the next southward, and is about 4 miles
in diameter, the passage northward of it being about 3 miles wide. It is
2,800 feet high, the highest point being in lat. 0° 28' N., long. 127° 23' E.

Makkian is a larger island than the last, and is also bold-to. Its peak is
in lat. 0° 19' S., long. 127° 23' E. On its South shore is the village of Mofa-
gila, where there is a Dutch resident. The Scalehy Castle anchored here with
the fort bearing S.W. off shore a quarter of a mile in 35 fathoms, sand and
shells. Miskien is the next island southward, and Kayo or Kiow succeeds it
southward. They are together about 1 1 miles from North to South. To the
westward of them is a cluster of islets, called the Guaricha or Latta Islands.
By daylight they are not dangerous, as most of them are visible.

At Makian, in 1846, a tremendous volcanic eruption took place, splitting
the peak in two, destroying villages and their inhabitants by thousands.
The island again repeopled, once more in 1862 the volcano burst out, kiUed
some 6,000 people, leaving scarce one to tell the tale; and the ashes dis-
charged so covered Ternate, 40 miles distant, that nearly all vegetation there
was destroyed. — Lord George Campbell.

At 6 miles S.W. from the S.W. end of Makkian is a 5-fathom bank, and
11 miles in the same direction from it is Laigoma, the easternmost of a
cluster of islets and rocks which extend for 20 miles to the West and W. by
S. The western part of the group should on no account be approached, as
several sunken rocks lie around it.

The Wolf Rock lies about 28 miles W. i S. from the South end of
Makkian, lat. 0° 20' N., long. 127° 9' E. It is nearly level with the surface,
the sea breaking over it, when it is visible in the hollow of the swell. It is
thus a very dangerous neighbour. From it the Peak of Ternate bears N.E. f
N. 43 miles. One of the Guaricha isles bears S.E. by E. 12 miles, and a

878 THE MOLUCCA ISLANDS.

small island off the North part of this group bears E. by S. about the same
distance.

BATCHIAN or Batjan, one of the five original Molucca or Clove Islands,
is by much the largest of them, and is the southernmost. Like the others,
it is of volcanic formation. It is said that fossil coal of good quality has
been found on it. The island is of irregular figure, about 52 miles long from
N.W. to S.E., and has numerous islands off its "West end. The Sultan of
Batjan is the third prince in rank subject to the Netherlands in these seas,
but he has very little power over his subjects, and piracy under his flag used
to be common under the protection and seclusion of the bays and harbours
formed by the islands around it. The population of Batjan is about 3,000.
The chief town, Batjan, is at the head of a bay on the S.W. side, and here
the Dutch have a post, called Fort Barneveld. Mount Lalurs, upon Batchian
Island, is a remarkable flat-topped mountain, 7,150 ft. high, in lat. 0° 44' S.,
long. 127° 32' E.

"On the 14th of October, 1874, we passed the islands of Batchian and
Tawali, which are great volcanic masses heaped up into ridges, about 1,000
feet in height, and separated by a long, narrow strait, abounding in the
grandest scenery. Here on Batchian the clove tree grows wild. North of
this island is Makian, an old volcano ; in fact, we were just now surrounded
with extinct craters." — W. J. J. Spry, R.N., Crm%e of S.M.S. Challenger.

The Strait of Batchian is formed by the islands of Bottan Lumang and
Mandolie or Marigorang, the latter of which is flat-topped and about 1,000 ft.
high. The southern part of it is broad, and there is good anchorage in most
places, with sheltered anchorage on the adjacent shores, but the tide runs
very strongly through the narrows in the North part of the strait. The
strait may be said to continue past the N.W. part of Batchian, between that
coast and the island of Great Tawalie or Kasiruta. This channel could only
be used with the greatest caution. Great Tawali has several islets off its
S.E. end, of which the Sow Islets, low and not remarkable, are the southern-
most. A sunken rock lies just South of the southern Sow. Great Tawali is
20 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 10_miles broadat its middle. It is
high, and also flat-topped, with a peak rising above the surrounding hills to
a height of 2,650 ft. ; the peak is in lat. 0° 20' S., long. 127° 5' E.

Tappi and Latta Latta Islands are separated by a strait 5 miles wide and
10 miles long from the N.W. side of Great Tawali Island. Tappi Island is
generally high; the highest peak, of l,-'300 ft., is in lat. 0° 15' S., long.
127° 4' E. Off the South and West extremes of Tappi are two small islets,
about 200 ft. high ; and 3 miles northward of its North point are three
small rocks close together, 130 ft. high, and in lat. 0° 11' S., long. 127° I'E.
From a position 10 miles West of the Peak of Tappi, the islands of Ternate,
Tidore, and Mortier were seen, and also one of the islands, probably Guari-
cha, northward of Little Tawali.

STEAIT OF PATIENTIE- MOLUCCA PASSAGE. 879.

Strong streams of flood and ebb were experienced by H.M.S. Challenger
westward of the Batchian Islands, the flood coming from the northward and
the ebb from the southward.

The tide sets through among these islands to the northward and southward
about 6 hours each way, but not always regular, and it rises about 6 ft.

The STRAIT of PATIENTIE, between Batchian and the southern penin-
sula of Halmaheira, is about 50 miles long, and of very various breadths.
It is a useful passage for vessels sailing between Ternate and Amboina in
the S.E. monsoon, although there is no good anchorage in it, as there is in
that of Batchian to the westward.

The northern enti'ance is between a projecting point of Halmaheira and
Batu Sombo Island, close to the Batchian shore, an opening 7 miles wide.
Between the S.E. point of the island and Bristly Point on Baichian, lie two
islands near the shore, and to the southward of the point and southernmost
of these islands there is a large bay, with good anchorage and plenty of
wood and water. Further in the strait is Lary Island, long, low, and flat.
It is covered with trees, and is close to the Halmaheira shore, on which,
opposite to its N.E. point, there is a fresh water river, where plenty of wood
and water may be obtained. The passage between the island and the Hal-
maheira shore is very narrow and shallow, and the tide is sometimes exceed-
ingly rapid. Farther South is Helang, or Amsterdam Island, in the middle
of the Narrows. After passing these islands, going southward, stand over
to the eastern side of the strait, and keep along that coast, on account of a
shoal said to lie nearly in mid-channel between the East point of Batchian
and Halmaheira. The East point above mentioned is in lat. 0° 48' S., long.
127° 53' E., and has deep water close-to in some parts, but some islets and
projecting spits should have a proper berth.

The MOLUCCA PASSAGE, or Molucca Sea, the wide space between the
islands just described and the eastern side of Celebes, described on page
812, requires but little description. The islands to the South of it, the
Xulla Group, are described on page 821, and Obi Major on p. 866. Between
the N.E. part of Celebes and the N.W. shore of Halmaheira, the breadth of
the narrowest part of the strait is 120 miles.

Mayor or Meyo Island, in the middle of the passage between Ternate
and Menado on Celebes, is about 3^ miles long East and West, and rises
gradually from the shore to a round-backed summit, 1,280 ft. high, in lat.
r 20^ N., long. 126'^ 22J' E. There is said to be anchorage on both the
North and South sides, sheltered from the monsoons.

Tifore, or Tyfore, 17 miles S.W. of Mayor, is about 2 miles long in an
East and West direction, and H mile broad. On its N.W. end is a saddle
peak 530 ft. high, the eastern and highest summit being in lat. 1° 1' N.,
long. 126° 8' E. About one cable's length ofi' the N.W. point of the island
is a small islet. On the eastern side of the island there is a bay in which,

880 DIRECTIONS.

according to the statement of the Malays at Ternate, whose proas frequently
take shelter in it, there is a depth of 20 or 30 fathoms, with a ridge of coral
across its entrance, upon which there are from 1 to 3 fathoms. There are
no soundings to be got in the strait between Tifore and Meyo, and no danger
was observed by H.M.S. Challenger. The current sets to the N.E. during
the greater part of the year.

The islands to the North of the N.E. extremity of Celebes, and those South
of Mindanao, will be described in the succeeding chapter.

DIRECTIONS for the Eastern Passages, or those eastward of Borneo, to
the description of which the latter pages of this work have been devoted, have
been given in pages 67 — 102. The choice of the most advantageous straits or
channels in the different monsoons is there indicated, and as will be under-
stood, this choice must depend very greatly upon the consideration of the
sailing powers of the ship, combined with the direction and strength of the
winds encountered. To follow the directions given in the remarks referred
to will not be difficult in combination with the hydrographical descriptions
in this chapter, as the latter follow in regular geographical order, and are
thus readily followed in any voyage, whether going northward or southward.
The illustrative chart facing page 42 will also aid in facilitating the applica-
tion of those general directions with the subsequent descriptions.

CHAPTER XIX.

In the foregoing pages the various islands and channels which form the
southern part of the chain of the Eastern Passages, or those between Borneo
and New Guinea, have been described. What follows in the present chapter
will be descriptions and brief remarks on the islands North of the Moluccas,
of which the Sulu Archipelago and the important Philippine Islands, are
the principal. The information is derived from a variety of sources, and
considerable improvement in our knowledge of the Sulu Archipelago was
gained by an examination made by H.M.S. Nassau, in 1872. It may, how-
ever, be observed, generally, that the hydrographical knowledge of the
islands described in this chapter is not as perfect as could be desired. We
commence with the southward and proceed northward towards the northern
portion of the Philippine Archipelago.

ISLANDS NORTH OF THE MOLUCCAS.

Bejaren is about 26 miles N.E. from the East end of Banka Island, lying
against the north-eastern extremity of Celebes, and described on page 812.
The channel southward of it is quite safe, and is much used. When seen
from an eastern or western direction it is wedge-shaped, with the cliflF to the
southward ; but seen from the southward it rises to a single sharp hill with
a thumb-like summit projecting nearly 500 ft. above the main portion of the
hill. The peak is 1,240 ft. high, and in lat. V 6^' N., long. 125° 2If E. A
fire was seen on the N.W. side of the island by H.M.S. Challenger.

Tagulanda is about 10 miles N. by E. from Bejaren, the channel between
being clear of danger. The island is about 7 miles long, and has two sum-
mits which show from East and West ; the eastern summit is round-backed
and 2,550 ft. high ; the western peak, 2 miles West of the eastern, is more
abrupt, and 2,450 ft. in height. To the S.W. of it, in lat. 2° 20' N., long.
125° 21' E., and connected by a reef, is the islet Buang or Roang, which shows
from the East and West as two sharp volcanic peaks, but from the southward
I. A b -Q

882 ISLANDS NORTH OF THE MOLUCCAS.

as three peaks ; the eastern, of 2,450 ft., is the highest. Smoke was seen
rising from the middle summit, and the island to within 300 or 400 ft. of the
sea is covered with lava and scorite, the lower part being wooded. At 5
miles N. W. of Eoang is Passigi, small, flat, and covered with trees, the tops
being about 100 ft. high.

Siao or Seauw is larger than Tagulanda, and is made very conspicuous by
a high conical volcanic peak, lat. 2° 44' N., long. 125° 22' E. There is a
village, named Undung, about the middle of the western side of the island,
off which to the W.S.W. is a sunken rock. MakaUhe, a small island, round-
backed, with palm trees (probably cocoa-nut) growing on its highest ridge,
lies 8 miles West of Siao. This island was seen 25 miles off by H.M.S.
Challenger, but Maquiliere Island was not visible at the same distance.
Mandang, with other islets, lie on the eastern side of Siao. Some rocks pro-
ject from the S.W. side of Mandang, between which and Siao there is an
opening a mile wide. The channel between Siao and Tagulanda is about 12
miles wide, and quite safe.

A group of small islands lies between Sangir and Siao. They are some-
times called the Karahitang, or Passage Islands. The westernmost of the
northern cluster is Karakitang, and is high ; the easternmost is Pala, and
projects into a low point to the eastward. The channel to the southward of
them, between this and Siao, is considered to be dangerous, as there is a
cluster of four rocky islets nearly midway between the two islands ; one of
these is called the Quoin. If this channel is taken, the North end of Siao
should be passed close-to, to avoid them ; but it is better to pass southward
of that island. The easternmost of these islands is called the Rabbit, which
is 18 miles S.E. of the South end of Sangir. There are two other small
islets or rocks to the East of the Eabbit, and others to the westward; several
of them are small spiral rocks, and some appear like haycocks.

SANGIR or Sanguir is 24 miles long N.W. and S.E., and is of volcanic
formation, a link in that great chain which passing through Java continues
northward through the Philippine Islands. It contains many extinct craters,
and several active volcanoes. The northern part consists of high mountains.
The chief peak is Mount Abu, at the N.W. end. The people are somewhat
civilized, simple, and inoffensive, speaking a peculiar language. The South
point, Cape Palumbatu, is in lat. 3° 21' N., long. 125° 39' E. The island is
surrounded by numerous smaller islets, of which we have no account. The
western side is indented by several small bays, with soundings of from 40 to
60 fathoms at from 1 to 2 miles off shore. It is clear of danger, but the
bottom is mostly coral. There is an anchorage off a small river or watering
place in a bay, in lat. 3° 29' N., long. 125° 28' E., with the village bearing
E.N.E., the piece of land like an island, but joined to the main island N.E.,
distant 1^ mile, the point of Fulo Keama, off the South end of Sangir,
S. 36° E. The watering river is there a little to the southward of the land

THE TULUR ISLANDS. 88:3

resembling an island. The tides run to the northward and southward about
2 miles an hour, and rise 6 or 7 ft. The water should be filled before high
water, as the ebb soon runs out dry. Poultry and vegetables may be got.
There is also said to be a harbour on the East of Sangir, formed by the ad-
joining small islands, several of which are at a considerable distance.

There are some small islands which lie scattered in the space between
Sangir and the South point of Mindanao, but they have safe channels among
them. The southernmost is called Louisa Island, 13 miles N. by W. from
Sangir. The Louisa Skoal is N.W. 4 miles distant. There is a good channel
outside the isles ofif the N.E. part of Sangir, but great caution is requisite in
the bight. To the northward of the last-mentioned island is a group called
the Carcaralong Islands, six in number, extending from lat. 4° 15' N. to
4° 46' N. They are named respectively the Haycock, Armadores, Anda, the
two Saddle Islands, and Ariaga, the northernmost. Haycock Rock, in lat.
4° ir N., long. 125° 5' E., lies N.W. by W., 24 miles from Louisa Island,
and W. by S. f S., 12 miles from Haycock Island. There is also a dangerous
patch of rocks, seen by the Iphigenia, two above water a mile apart, and a
third under water a mile to the southward of the southernmost, in lat.
4° 11' N., long. 126° 8' E.

The TULUE ISLANDS are the last of the Dutch possessions that have
to be noticed. They lie 65 miles north-eastward of the Sangir group, are
not much known, but are also called the Talaut or Salibabo Islands, the
latter being the name of the principal island. They are inhabited by a par-
tially civilized and simple race, who raise yams, cocoa-nuts, hogs, goats, and
poultry.

The southernmost island is Kaloroan (Kabroeang), and has a peaked
summit on its eastern end. At its S.E. point is Kaman Village, in lat.
3° 49' N., long. 127° 2' E. Saiibabo or Lirong is to the W.N.W. of Kaboroan.
On its N.W. end is a table hill, and the principal village is in a small har-
bour at the bottom of Salibabo Bay, at its S.E. end. Sailing infer the road
by the South channel, between Kaboroan and the S.E. point of Salibabo, a
berth must be given to a spit that projects rather more than half a mile
from the shore, about halfway between the point and the harbour. The
havbour is readily known by the houses and cocoa-nut trees, but is not
adapted apparently for large vessels. There is a safe channel between this
island and the others to the N.E., but the S.E. end of Karekelang should be
approached with caution.

The Northiimberlajid Reef lies about 12 miles S.E. from the peak of Ka-
boroan. It is about 2 miles in extent, and has a patch of sand above water.

Karakelang is the largest and northernmost of the Talout Islands, and is
24 miles long N.E. and S.W. The northern part is lined with a dangerous
reef, which projects 3 or 4 miles from the North point.

The Meangis Islands, 36 miles N.E. of Karekelang, cuusist of five islands,

884 THE StJLU AECHIPELAGO.

of moderate height, with some smaller ones adjoining. The southernmost,
Kakarutan Island, is in lat. 4° 39' N., long. 127° 7' E. At 2 miles eastward
of it are some small islets, and 5 miles N.N.E. of it a sunken rock, which
also lies 8. ^ E. 2^ miles from Central Island. Namusa, the largest island,
3 miles long North and South, and 670 ft. high, has its North point in lat.
4° 48' N., long. 127° 6' E. At 5 miles W.N.W. from this point is North
Island. Karatin Island lies 6 miles South from North Island, and has a
sunken rock off its N.W. end. These islands are but little known, and a
good look-out is required when near them. H.M.S. C'^a^^ew^CT- passed within
6 miles of them in February, 1875, and exchanged some tobacco for lories
brought off by the natives in their canoes. A S.E. current had drifted the
ship further South than was intended.

The CELEBES SEA is the area between these last described islands, the
Sulu Islands, the coast of Borneo, and the North coast of Celebes, Its
shores have been described, but the following may be interesting as relating
to its depth, &c.

" Proceeding through the passage between Banka Island, off the North
coast of Celebes, and Bejaren Island, the positions of those and the neigh-
bouring islands were fixed, and a sounding obtained in 2,150 fathoms, red
clay, when only 23 miles West of Maquiliere Island. The serial tempera-
ture proved that the water in the Celebes Sea is cut off from communication
with the surrounding seas below 700 fathoms, the temperature of the water
below that depth being uniform at 38° 6', this agreeing with the observations
of Commander Chimmo. On the 22nd of October another sounding was
obtained in 2,600 fathoms, when about 40 miles from the land of Point
Pola, South coast of Mindanao, with the same result as to temperature." —
Yoyage of H.M.S. Challenger, Geographical Magazine^ November, 1875,

THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO,

This labyrinth of islands between Borneo and the Philippine Islands is
variously termed the Sulu, Sooloo, Soolo, Soeloe (Dutch), Jolo (Spanish),
Suluk (Malay). An examination of the group was made in 1872 by Com-
mander Chimmo; E.N., in H.M.S. Nassau. Previous to this our knowledge
was very scanty, and chiefly derived from the visit of the United States'
Exploring Expedition, in 1842.

The Archipelago consists of nearly 150 islands, many of them mere rocks,
clustered around the three larger islands, which alone are of any importance.
Basilan to the E.N.E., Sulu in the central part, and Tawi-Tawi in the
"W.8.W. part. Although the islands are supposed to be under the rule of
the Spaniards, the Sultan and his subjects are in conetant rebellion, and a

THE SULU ARCniPELAGO. 885

blockade of the ports was going on at the time of the visit of H.M.S. Chal-
lenger to Samboangan in 1875. Previous to holding communication with
these people it is necessary to hoist a flag of truce.

The commerce, chiefly with Manila, is mostly in tortoise-shell, pearl
oyster, pearls, sharks' fins, trepang, and swallows' nests. The people pro-
fess the Mohammedan religion, and the only people who can reside among
them as traders are the Chinese, who pay a large tribute in their shipping
transactions.

Tapul Group. — <?»«««» /«?«m<?, the peak of which is in lat. 5" 32' N., long.
120° 52' E., and 1,714 ft. above the sea, is the highest island between Sulu
and Tawi-Tawi. There are several lai'ge villages built on the reefs that
fringe the S.W. and East coasts, the inhabitants of which carry on the pearl
fishery. Tara Island lies on the reef to the North of Siassi, and IJ mile
North of this is a solitary rock, 8 ft. above high water mark.

Tapul and Bulipoyigpong^ two fertile and well cultivated islands, lie to the
northward of Siassi; the former is 1,657 ft., and the latter 984 ft. high.
They are apparently clear to the westward, but reefs extend to the southward
and eastward of both.

A 3-fathom patch, a mile in extent, lies 2 miles northward of Siassi, with
the East extreme of Manubol Island bearing S. | W., and the North extreme
of Tara Island E. by S. h S. Another patch, about 3 cables in extent,
awash at half tide, with deep water around it, lies \\ mile S. j E. from Tara
Island ; and a third j)atch, of 3 fathoms^ lies If mile E.S.E. from it.

Lapac, three-quarters of a mile to the westward of Siassi, in the
distance on a S.E. bearing looks like two islands. The reef from this
island nearly joins that of Siassi. The Imperial German ship Elisabeth^
Captain Von Wiekede, obtained good anchorage in 1 1 fathoms, in the chan-
nel between Siassi and Lapac Islands, abreast a house almost hidden by
trees, on Siassi Island. The southern portion of this channel, which lies
between the coral reefs extending from these islands, is 1 cable wide, with
depths of 6 to 9 ft. on the bar at the South entrance, where it is only halt a
cable wide ; but from an examination by Captain Schick, in the German
schooner Minna, 1876, there appears to be 6| lathoms in the southern en-
trance of the channel.

One-third of a mile from the S.W. point of Lapac is a dangerous patch of
rock, with 8 fathoms between it and the shore. The island of Manubol, on
the South part of the Lapac lieef, has a large fishing village on the north-
eastern side. Good anchorage was found by H.M.S. Frolic, in 1874, ofi' the
West side of Lapac Island ; and immediately ofi' the northern entrance of
the passage, between Lapac and Siassi Islands, good shelter is said to be
found by vessels, in the S.W. monsoon. There is also good anchorage in
from 7 to 1 2 fathoms, sand and coral, to the southward and westward of the
email island West of Lupac, and immediately oiT the village. Supplies may

886 THE SULU AECHIPELAGO.

be obtained at Lapac, such as bullocks, goats, and fowls, at a moderate rate,
but vegetables are scarce, as is also water.

Selu7i, a small island 2| miles N.W. of Lapac, is about a quarter of a mile
lono-, 153 ft. High, covered with trees, and steep-to, with a clear channel be-
tween it and Lapac. Tapaam, a low island, lies S.W. of Lapac. The chan-
nel between is about 1^ mile wide, and navigable.

Tapaam Passage, which is formed by Tapaam and Lapac to the eastward,
and Bubuan and Maniacolat to the westward, is about 63 miles wide at its
narrowest part, viz., between Maglumba, a small island, 123 ft. high, off
Maniacolat, and the N.W. side of Tapaam. This passage is clear for a
steamer, and would be convenient for a sailing ship, as the tides make fairly
through it, and in calms or light winds a vessel could always anchor to await
the change of tide. Crest of Wave Shoal is in the fairway of the Tapaam
Passage, and the shoalest part of 4| fathoms lies about N.E. ^ E., 4f miles
from the little conical island of Parangaan, on the S.W. side of the passage.
As a rule, it is easily discerned by discolouration, or by the tide ripplings.
Tapaam Shoal is a small patch of 6^ fathoms, coral and sand, nearly midway
between Tapaam and Bubuan.

Tagao Island lies 7 miles southward of Bubuan. It is a small island, with
a sunken rock one-third of a mile S.E. of it. Magpeo, another small island,
surrounded by shallow water, lies 2 miles northward of Tagao. Keenapoussan
Group, 10 miles to the southward of Babuan Island, consists of three low,
densely wooded, coral islands of Tabawan, Bintoulan, and Keenapoussan,
between the two former of which there is a narrow 5 fathom channel. As
the reefs to the southward of these islands are steep-to, and the lead conse-
quently gives no warning, care should be taken when navigating in this
vicinity. The tides here are also strong. The best anchorage is with the
West extreme of the village on the North side of Tabawan about S.S.E.,
three-quarters of a mile off shore. The tides are regular here, and not very
strong.

The TAWI-TAWI, or Taui-Taui, or Tawee-Taivee Group, are those nearest
to Cape Unsang. The principal island of the cluster is Tawi-Tawi, 35 miles
long, and its northern side, according to the Spanish charts, appears nearly
clear of danger.

Bongalao Island is the most western of the Tawi-Tawi Group. It is about
2f miles long by 1^ mile broad, and the highest peak is 1,151 ft. above the
sea, but other peaks attain nearly the same altitude. Observation Islet,
immediately South of Bongalao, is in lat. 5° 0' 33" N., long. 119° 44' 20" E.
Sanga Sanga Island is about 6 miles long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and
3J miles across at the widest part ; it lies immediately to the northward of
Bongalao, between it and Tawi-Tawi Island, and separated from each by a
very narrow boat passage. Unlike Bongalao, this island is not high, has no
conspicuous hill on it, and is covered with trees. There are a few small

THE TAWI-TAWI GROUP. 887

patches of cultivation on the S.E. side over Pandan Bay, where there is a
Panglema or chief, but there is none in any other part of the island. Panda7i
Bay is a snug anchorage, well sheltered from all winds, with good holding
ground, taking care if going close in to avoid the rock awash and the 6-foot
coral patch in the middle of the entrance. The best anchorage is, however,
outside the bay, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, mud, with the Panglema's House
(on the East side of the bay) N.N.W. ^ W., and South point of Sanga
Kanga W-S-W. There are no supplies to be obtained. Care should be
taken in approaching Pandan Bay, to avoid some dangers on the South coast
of Tawi-Tawi.

Papahag Island lies on the South side of the entrance to Pandan Bay, and
East of Bongalao Islan-d. There are said to be numerous wild cattle here,
but none were seen during the Nassau's visit in February, 1872.

Bahmhing, a town on the South coast of Tawi-Tawi, was destroyed by the
Spanish squadi'on in 1871, since when, on the smoke of a steamer being
seen, the inhabitants take to their boats. They are pirates when opportunity
offers, and build boats at a place called Lupa Buan, about 10 miles to
the N.E.

Bilitan is an island about 3^ miles long, the North extreme being about
•6^ miles S.S.E. of Balambing; there appeared to be some large villages in
the interior of this island, and judging by the number of boats passing be-
tween it and Tawi-Tawi and the islands to the S.W., there is great traffic
carried on between them. The reef, with a few narrow, tortuous channels
through it, joins Bilatan to the S.E. end of Tawi-Tawi, and from the S.W.
■end of Bilatan a dangerous coral reef, with sand cays, extends for 9 miles to
the S.W. Simonor Island is about 5 miles in diameter from N.W. to S.E.,
and its N.E. end lies W.S.W. 9 miles from the S.W. end of Bilatan. It is
thickly inhabited, but has no anchorage near, as the fringe of coral reef
surrounding it is steep-to. At 2 miles N.E. of its N.E. end is Laa, a small
island, surrounded by a reef, which thence extends for 5 miles to the W.N. W.,
having 2^ fathoms on its western extremity, and a second island 2 miles
W.N.W. from the first. This reef with the S.W. extremity of that extend-
ing from Bilitan forms a channel on the East and North sides of Simonor.
Manuc Matica is is separated from Simonor by a deep channel 2 miles wide.
It is thickly inhabited, and the reef surrounding it steep-to.

There is good anchorage anywhere along the South coast of Tawi-Tawi
from Bongalao to Balambing in about 13 fathoms, sand and coral, muddy
bottom being sometimes obtained, but there are several dangers, as before
mentioned, which require caution. When anchored North of Laa Island in
H.M.S. Nassau, the natives came off from Simonor in large numbers with
fowls, goats, cocoa-nuts, sweet potatoes, and fish.

Sibutu Island, the North end of which is in lat. 4° 54' 40" N., long.
119^^ 27' E., lies W. by S. J S. about 18 miles distant from the Observation

888 THE SULU ARCHIPFXAOO.

Islet South of Bongalao ; it runs nearly North and South, and is about 14
miles long, with an average breadth of 2 miles. With the exception of the
single peak on the East coast, which has an altitude of 524 ft., and is a per-
fect cone, the island is flat and densely wooded. A reef, steep-to, fringes
the coast, and then runs nearly 8 miles South of its southern point, some
email islands covered with trees, lying near its S.W. extreme.

From 2 to 2^ miles West of Sibutu a chain of islets and reefs runs to the
southward and parallel to it, of which Omapui and Tuinindao Islands are the
principal. There is a deep channel between Sibutu and these islands, but
it has not been examined. From the N.E. point of Omapui the reef trends
to the N.W. for about 2^ miles, and then to the S.W. These islands are
frequented for the beche-de-mer. The natives report that wild cattle are
very numerous in Sibutu, and that Omapui abounds with wild pigs.

Unsang Anchorage, off the extreme East point of Borneo, affords good^
shelter in the S.W. monsoon, the bottom in the bay being moderately even,
and holding ground of sand and mud, remarkably good. The N.E. extreme
of the island South of the anchorage is in lat 5° 14' 54" N., long. 1 19° 15' 1 1"
E., and lies N.W. by W. | W. from the Observation Islet, South of Bon-
galao, distant 32 miles.

Two and a half miles N. by E. ^ E. from the observation point is Rocky
Bank, two rocks on a 3-fathom bank. Three-quarters of a mile to the west-
ward of Rocky Bank is Sandy Bank, half a mile in extent, composed of sand
•and mud, its western edge being within 1 1 cables of the shore.

No fresh water was found at any time of tide. Fish are plentiful. There
were no traces of natives during the stay of the Nassau. Casuarina trees
for steaming purposes may be cut in any quantity close to the beach.

Rene Bank, of 4 fathoms, lies in lat. 5° 31' N., long 119= 9' E., N.E. by
E., 5 miles from Tambisan Island, on the East side of Tangusu Bay.
Discolored water was seen at 6 miles N.E. of it in lat. 5° 37' N., long. 119°
15' E., approx.

Nymphe Bank was discovered by a Prussian corvette of that name in 1873.
It is described as half a mile in extent, and breaking heavily. Lat. 5° 43' N.,
long. 118° 41' E.

Peri Bank, of 5J fathoms, is in lat. 5° 47' N., long 118° 57' E.

Sunday Bank lies N. by W., distant 32 miles from Hog Point, which is
visible from it. The shoalest water on this bank (10 fathoms, sand and
coral) is in lat. 5° 50' 35" N., long. 119° 9' 30" E.

Talantam Bank is composed of sand and coral., the shoalest part of 5 fa-
thoms being in lat. 5° 42' N., long. 119° 26' 30" E. It is about 3 miles long
N.W., and S.E. If mile wide, with an average depth of 8 fathoms. With
wind against the tide there are heavy overfalls round this bank.

The Pearl Bank, on which are Taj a and Zan Islands, is a formation of
coral and sand, lying about E. by N. and W. by S., 15 miles long, with an

SIILU. 8«9

average width of 6 miles, and very steep-to. The opening leading into the
lagoon formed by the coral reef on Pearl Bank, has a bar extending across
it with 9 to 13 ft. water. This reef has several small islands, the highest
(50 ft.) being near the S.E. extreme. There is fair anchorage ou the bank
either to the N.E. or S.W., in the S.W. and N.E. monsoons respectively,
but tides are very strong, running with a velocity of from 3 to 5 knots an
hour.

Doc- Can lies E. \ N. about 12 miles from the eastern islet on the Pearl
Bank. In the centre of this island is a large lagoon, with several islets in it.
A bank w^th from 5 to 8 fathoms extends about 2 miles to the N.W. of Doc-
Can Island. The tides here are very strong, the flood running N.N.W., ebb
S.W., 3 to 5.5 miles an hour. There is anchorage South and West of Doo-
Can, but none North of it ; outside the 20-fathom limit the bank is steep-to ;
on the southern side of the island, a ship should anchor directly 9 or 10
fathoms is obtained, as deeper water will be found between those soundings
and the edge of the reef.

Laparan Island is situated to the eastward of Doc-Can, with a channel
a quarter of a mile wide dividing them ; it runs North and South, is 5
miles long, and from 2 to 3 miles broad, and covered with trees. To the
westward it is fronted by a coral reef, with several small islets on it, the reef
being steep-to. There is no anchorage to the westward of Laparan.

Cap Island lies 9 miles E.N.E. from Laparan. It has sunken rocks ex-
tending 3 miles westward from its northern end, and a 2|-fathom patch at 3
miles eastward of the same point. Deoto Bato, 2\ miles long in a N.N.W.
and S.S.E. direction, lies in the southern part of the strait which separates
Laparan and Cap Islands. Numerous small islands lie to the south-eastward
between these islands and the Tapul Group, which will be best understood
from the chart.

SULTJ is about 30 miles long, and 8 or 10 miles broad. The officers of the
U.S. Expedition came to the conclusion that they had seen nothing in their
circumnavigation to be compared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to
be well cultivated, with gentle slopes rising here and there into eminences
from one to two thousand feet in height. Although under cultivation, it had
the freshness of a forest region. The effect of this was destroyed in part by
the knowledge that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a cruel and
barbarous race of pirates.

Sulu or Sotmg, at the N.W. end of the island, is or was the residence of
the Sultan or fiajah, and the emporium of the archipelago. H.M.S. Egeria
visited the place in 1876, and found that the town had been destroyed.
According to Sir Edward Belcher, it is built on piles, like Brunion the N.W.
coast of Borneo, running in three lines out to sea, the out r houses being
in 4 fathoms, the intervals allowing the Samarang to lie in the main street.
I. ▲. • 5 X

890 THE SULU AECHIPELAGO.

The chiefs, however, reside on terra firma. There are or were two batteries,
one on each side of this main water communication. It is in lat. 6° 2' N.,
long. 121° E.

The anchorage in the road is in 18 or 20 fathoms, on a loose sandy bottom,
with the Sultan's house bearing S. 26° E., Mount Temontangis S. 26° W.,
Tulian Eock S. 67° W., and the S.W. point of Paliangan, the largest and
westernmost island in the offing N. 60° W. The bottom being insufficient
holding ground, ships are liable to drive in N.W. squalls. Bullocks, poul-
try, and live stock of all kinds, with abundance of vegetables and fruits,
may be procured ; also wood and water. But in any communications here,
the utmost caution should be used, as before urged. Water may be procured
in abundance in Talian Bay at the N.E. end of the island.

In coming to Sulu Eoad from the N.E. care should be taken to avoid the
Tahut Palunuan Shoal, with 3 and 3 J fathoms or less water, and extending
N.E. and S.W. for 6 or 7 miles. The southern part is in lat. 6° 14' N.,
long. 121° 16' E., about 18 miles N. by W. from the East end of Sulu, and
16 miles westward of the Duo Bolod, two rocks 700 feet in height, nearly
midway between Sulu and Basilan. They are quite bold-to. Leaving Sulu
Eoad, the best route to the S.E. is round the West end of the island, leaving
the high island of Tapul before mentioned, and the low islands of Taluk and
Kabinguan to the southward, and the islands nearer to Sulu to the north-
ward. One of the detached coral patches mentioned before, however, lies
near this track. It has 8 J fathoms, and bears from the westernmost high
land of Sulu S.S.E. and West from the South point of Pata Island, which is
high. The tides set fair through this channel, and sometimes very strong.
Off the West end of Sulu, in December, they have been found to set N.W.
and S.E. at 4 miles an hour. During the N.N. monsoon there is generally
a N.W. or westerly current in the neaps between Sulu and Basilan. In
March the current generally sets to the eastward.

Dalrymple Rarhour, on the N.E. side of the island of Sulu, is formed by
the island of Tulyan on the North and the coast of Sulu to the South, and,
being the only well-protected harbour in this fertile island, may at some
future day be a place of importance. Good anchorage will be found during
the N.E. monsoon under the lee of Tulyan Island ; the natives report that,
during the N.E. monsoon the wind seldom blows home.

Tulyan Island, about 1 mile in length froai S.S.W. to N.N.E., and 8 cables
in an East and West direction, is steep on the West side, running up to a
height of 513 ft., the summit being clothed with long grass. The Spaniarda
had a guard of soldiers on this island for some time, but the natives from the
mainland made such frequent excursions, spearing the sentries and cattle,
that they found it advisable to remove the settlement, since which time it.
has not been inhabited.

THE PANGUTARAN GROUP. 891

Buol was the largest town in this part of the island of Sulu, but was par-
tially destroyed by the Spaniards in 1872.

A large ship visiting Dalrymple Harbour should round Tulyan Island to
the northward, and approach the anchorage by the eastern passage, avoiding
the 4i-fathom patch 3^ cables S."W. of Martin Bluff, having passed on the
island side of which, a course about S.W. A W. until the southern point
bears West, leads up to the anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms. The extreme
eastern point of the island should then bear about N.N.E. j E. Supplies
are not to be obtained.

Maimbun Bay, on the S.W. side of Sulu Island, is much used as an an-
chorage during the N.E. monsoons ; the bottom, however, appears to be
studded with loose coral. The rock charted 2 miles South from Point Ca-
balian (the West entrance point of Maimbun Bay), is said not to exist. A
shoal (Batolaqui Shoal), awash at high water, was seen from the Swinger, at
half a mile E.S.E. from Point Cabalian.

The Pangutaran Group, to the N.W. of Sulu, consists of several islands,
of which that which give the name is the largest and westernmost. Th^re
is a village on the coast at 5 miles S.W. of Sulu, and near the shore, N.E. of
this village, is a sunken rock. W.N.W. 3 miles from the point on which
the village stands is an islet, with a sunken rock 1^ mile westward from it.
Marongos, a small island, lies N.W. 6 miles from Sulu, and in a N.E. direc-
tion from it lie three other islands, within a distance of 8 miles. A bank
lies a little to the S.E. of the centre one of the three. Palliavgan, 5 miles
long N.E. and S.W., has its South extreme at 3 miles W. by N. from Ma-
rongos. Off its S.W. extreme are some dangers, and at 4 miles W.S.W.
from this point is a 3-fathom patch. There is a clear channel between the
Pangutaran Group and Ubian, and this is the proper course in the S.W.
monsoon, as the currents run strongly to the northward along the West sides
of the islands. To the northward of Pangutaran the springs sometimes run
6 knots, and if horsed to the eastward of the island, there will be some
difficulty in getting to the S.E., as the two adjacent islands, Eulassein and
Pandiican, are connected by reefs, and the strait between is very narrow.

Ubian is inhabited, the largest town Suang-bunah being on the S.W. side,
well protected by a coral reef. From Ubian a shallow bank, with from 7 to
1 1 fathoms over it, runs in a W.S.W. direction for nearly 19 miles to Cap
Island. This bank affords a good stopping place for a ship taking the Pan-
gutaran passage ; its northern edge is very steep, and the lead should be
kept going when approaching from this direction. There is anchorage be-
tween Ubian and Malicut, a small island 3^ miles S.W. of it, in from 5 to 10
fathoms, but the bottom is hard and even. There is also anchorage about
I mile W.S.W. of the North end of Malicut in 7 to 9 fathoms, but the tides
run strong at springs.

The interval between Sulu and Basilan, a space 13 miles wide, is occupied

892 THE SULU AECHIPELAGO.

by several groups of islands, which have open and clear channels between
them. The south-easternmost of these openings, between Point Tandu, the
East point of Sulu, and Bengao, the island next eastward of it, is 5^ miles
wide, and, as far as is known, is safe, the only danger being a reef off the
N.W. paint of the latter island. The channels between this and Belauan,
separated by Batanguingi and Tongkuil Islands, are also safe.

In the space to the northward of Sulu Island are several detached rocts
and dangers. Teomabal Island, 12 miles East of Panducan, has a reef extend-
ing 8 miles E.N.E. from it, and 5 miles northward of the eastern end of this
reef is a detached If fathom bank. St. Lucia Shoal, of 3^ fathoms, is in lat.
6° 24' N., long. 121° 14' E. Wilhelmina Rock, awasb at high water, lies 7
miles E. ^ N. from this, and at 8 miles S.E. from the St. Lucia is a rock
awash, with a 3i-fathom patch just northward of it, and shallow water ex-
tending for 6 miles to the S.W.

Belauan or Belawn is the south-easternmost of a cluster, and is apparently
low land, and on the N.W. island is a high, round mount. The East point
of Belauan is in lat. 6° 7' 30" N., long. 121° 52' E. A mile to the N.E. of it
are two small islets, called Difulul. Tataran is also of moderate height, and
is 6 miles northward of the East point of Belauan.

The channel between Tataran and Lanauan, which is 533 feet in height,
is 6 miles in breadth, and the edge of the bank of soundings on which the
islands stand is very steep-to to the eastward of them. This occasions a
ridge or line of strong ripplings, appearing sometimes like breakers when the
current runs swiftly, but there is no danger, the least depth being 9 and 10
fathoms. Tapiantana Island, which forms the N.E. limit of this channel,
has a high, hill, forming a regular peak on its western part, with low land
stretching out to its East point, which is in lat. 6° 17' N., long. 122° E.
Buhuan Island, to the northward of Tapiantana, is very similar to it, and
has a mount of similar form 983 ft. high. To the eastward of them are the
Salipen Islands, from the North side of which a reef extends towards the
South point of Basilan. The channel between the South end of Basilan and
the reefs which lie off it is safe, but in some parts is very narrow, so that
that South of Lanauan is much to be preferred.

BASILAN, the largest of the eastern group, belongs to the Spanish Go-
vernment. It was a nest of thieves and pirates, the most expert in the
archipelago, and in consequence was taken possession of by the Spaniards,
and attached to the province of Samboangan in Mindanao. It is about 20
miles long, and is a mountainous country. The highest point, on the South
side, is 3,970 ft. high ; the East end rises to 2,540 ft., and the western point
to 1,116 it.

Point Matanal, the eastern extremity, is in lat. 6° 37' N., long. 122° 19' E.
Above it is the high land before mentioned. The N.E. shore of the island
is quit© bold-to, and trends to W.N. W. for 20 miles to the mouth of a narrow

BASILAN- PASSANHAN OR ISABELA HAEBOUR. 893

strait, formed by Malaunavi Island, in which is the Spanish post of Imhela or
Passanhan.

Passanhan or Isabela Harbour, at the N.W. side of Basilan Island, can
be entered from the North or South, and there is sufficient depth of water
for large vessels. The channel has an everage width of 1 J cable ; the shoals
which in some places narrow it are marked by buoys, as is also the shoal off
the southern entrance. Large vessels should moor in the stream ; smaller
vessels may lie closer to the shore of the harbour.

The tides during the stay of the Rertha, in the month of April, were regu-
lar, of six hours' duration each, and no slack water ; they are, however, fre-
quently influenced by the wind. The flood set S.W. and the ebb to the N.E.,
at the rate of 1^ or 2 knots.

Isahela, the residence of the Spanish Governor of Basilan, is situated on
the western slope of a chain of hills, 590 ft. high, and densely wooded. The
bar of the rivulet Passanhan, West of the town of Isabela, is impassable even
for small craft. It supplies the only drinking water to be obtained, but so
high up that boats cannot ascend. Provisions cannot be obtained. There
is a coal depot for the use of the Spanish vessels of war, at a small island
adjoining the mainland ; no other store of coal is kept.

The population consists of 5,000 or 6,000, chiefly Malays and Chinese,
who live in bamboo huts, the Malays, according to their custom, over or
near the water. Some convicts are kept on the idand where the coal depot
is placed. — (Ship Rertha, Imperial German Navy, 1875.)

The bay to the West of this, called San Rafael Bay, has anchorage in 12
to 15 fathoms, protected in some degree by the shoals which extend westward
from the island.

To the westward of Basilan there are numerous islands, the channels be-
tween which appear to be safe, but should only be used with caution,
Buhuan, 983 ft. high, lies off" the South point in lat. 6° 21' N., long. 122° O'E.
The Basilan coast, to the N.W. of this, is clear, as also the channel 3 miles
wide to the North of it, but to the eastward there are some shoals which very
much contract the passage to the eastward. Malusa, a settlement of the
Spaniards on the S.W. coast of Basilan, is deserted ("1875), and its vicinity
should be avoided, the inhabitants being hostile. On the S.E. side of Basi-
lan, between the island Cauluan and Matanal Point, there is a bank of
soundings against the shore of the wide bay which opens to the S.E.

Sibago Island, which lies %h miles N.E. by N. from Point Matanai, is
high, with low land projecting from the hill. It is in lat. 6° 45' N., long.
122° 24' E. Langil Island is 3 miles to the W.N.W. of Sibago ; it also has
low land extending from its high hill, and the two islands when seen in
nearly the above or opposite bearing, appear as one saddle hill. Cocos, a
high and small island, is 5 miles W. i S. from Langil, and 5 miles off Basi-

S94 THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.

Ian. The Eelena Bank, coral, lies about H mile N.W. from Cocos, which is
in lat. 6° 46' N., long. 122° 14' E.

The STRAIT of BASILAN, between that island and the South point of
Mindanao, is about 6^ miles wide where narrowest. To the south-eastward
are the islands just mentioned, and to the westward are the clusters which
lie to the N.W. of Basilan and northward of Pilas.

Filas is all low level land, except the North part, where there are two hills
about 710 ft. high. It is about 6 miles long North and South, and a small
island, Tagowlu, lies on its eastern side.

Of the islands West of Pilas the Salleolukit Isles are the westernmost, and
are 25 miles westward of the West point of Basilan. A 3 miles N.W. of this
is this Favotirite Roch, 12 ft., in lat. 6° 44' N., long. 121° 22', which is the
farthest to the N.W. The Griffin Rocks lie 6 miles N. by E. from Salleolukit.
They must have a berth to the eastward, as the sea does not always break
on them. There is another rock, Batu Balu, about 7^ miles to the S.E. of
Salleolukit. Besides these there are several other shoals to the westward of
Pilas and Sanghoys Islands, the latter lying 18 miles N.W. by W. from
Basilan ; they are two high islands close to each other, and are sometimes
called the Hare's Ears. The hill on the South, or Great Sangboy, resembles
a dome.

Teinga or Texjnga is about 3 miles N.N.E. from the North Sangboy. It is
in lat. 6° 54' N., long. 121° 38' E., and is the northernmost of the Sulu Ar-
chipelago. It is very low, covered with trees. A reef extends a short dis-
tance South of it, and another a considerable distance to the North of it.
There is also a 6-fathom spot at 6| miles E. by N. ^ N. from it, reported by
the ship Wild Rover, in 1870.

Between Pilas and Basilan are Malaga or Mataha, low and woody, and
Bululi to the northward of it, a considerable island, with a sloping hill at the
North part, and low land to the southward. With Pilas Island it forms a
safe channel 3 miles wide. About midway between Matagu and Baluk there
is said to be a bank or dangerous rock.

The Santa Cruz Islands, on the North side of the strait, adjacent to the
South point of Mindanao, are two in number and small. There are numerous
coral reefs in their vicinity. One of these has 13 ft. water, and lies 4 miles
S.W. \ W. from the western island, the eastern peak of Basilan bearing
S.E. by E. There are other patches between this and the island to the east-
ward. There is another coral reef of 16 feet, with the western Sta. Cruz
Island bearing E. by S. ;| S. 7 miles. A 6-fathom patch lies 3 miles off the
North coast of Basilan, at 14 miles westward of Cocos Island.

With the exception of these reefs, and that near the Cocos Islands, the
Strait of Basilan appears to be safe, although the depths in it are very irre-
gular, with rocky bottom in many places.

( 895 )

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

This noble archipelago belongs to the Spaniards by right of discovery.
Twenty-nine years alter the discovery of America by Columbus, and two
years after the conquest of Alexico, Fernando Magalhaens, or as he is com-
monly called Magellan, after having passed round Cape Horn, and discover-
ing the Ladrone Islands, came in sight of Samar, one of the Philippines, on
Sunday, March 17th, 1521, the feast of St. Lazarus, and thus named them
the Archipelago of St. Lazaro, which -was subsequently changed by Villa-
lobus 21 years later, to their present appellation, in honour of Philip Prince
of Asturias, the unworthy son of Charles V. Magellan, coming to Zebu or
Cebu, began the work of conquest and conversion simultaneously, and was
shot by the Indians in a foolish fray on the island of Mactan, adjacent to the
East coast of Zebu, on August 26th, 1521. Thus died the first circumnavi-
gator, his ships being brought to Spain by his cousin and historian Barbosa.
A monument is erected to his memory at Zebu, as hereafter described.

The archipelago numbers thirty-one islands of importance, exclusive of
numerous tiny islets, rocks, and reefs. They extend from North to South,
over sixteen degrees of latitude, a circumstance which endows them with a
striking variety of climate, which in its turn is exemplified in the growth of
products belonging to both the temperate and torrid zones, the palm and
the fir, the pine-apple, the potato, and wheat flourishing alike on their
shores. The situation of these fertile islands, occupying as they do a central
point between Japan, China, Annam, the English and Dutch settlements in
the East Indies and Australia, not to speak of their favourable position for
communication with the West coast of America, ought to ensure them a
world-wide trade. But hitherto, in spite of the early trade with Manilla in
the 16th century, commerce has languished hopelessly through the elaborate
and short-sighted restrictions imposed by Spanish protectionists. There is
however, good ground for anticipating better days, for a decree of the 5th of
April, provided that the difi'erential duties, which were framed in a spirit of
the most extraordinary hostility to all foreign traders, should expire at the
end of two years, that all export duties should be abrogated, and that the
more annoying port dues should be consolidated into one single charge. The
most important products of the islands are tobacco, coffee, cacao, cocoa-nut
oil, sugar and Manila hemp. Manila, Samboanga, Zebu, Ilo Ilo, Tacloban
and Legaspi are open ports.

The rest of the islands, excepting Mindanao and the Bashi Islands, are
known collectively, as the Bisayas, or Visayas, a native word signifying
" painted man," as the people were found to be so when first discovered by
the Spaniards. But they are all under one government, that oi the Captain-

896 THE PHILirPINE ISLANDS.

General, resident at Manila, whose jurisdiction not only extends over all the
islands, but also over the Marianas in the Pacific. The people are of diflferent
races. The mountain tribes are called Negritos, diminutive negroes, who
also inhabit the island Negros, adjacent to Zebu. Another race are the
Igorrotes, a copper-coloured race, who resemble the Dyaks of Borneo, and
are eager head-hunters. The great mass of those subject to the Spanish
rule are the Tagals inhabiting Luzon, and the Bisayans, who live on the
other islands, each having a variety of dialects and customs. A large Chinese
population also exists.

The number of the population has been variously and vaguely estimated,
the latest account being that given by Dr. Meyer, in 1875, who states that
the population of the archipelago, according to the latest Spanish accounts,
numbered 7,451,352; of these 4,540,191 were in Luzon, and 1,052,586 in
Panay.

The seasons may be divided into the wet and dry, the former extending
from June to November, and the latter from December to May.

Tides. — It is only in recent years that the tides of these islands have been
understood. Owing to their great irregularity, it required a long series of
observations at frequent intervals to gain sufficient knowledge to make known
the system. These observations have been made, and the conclusion come
to, that in the course of the lunar day in the Bay of Manila there are two
high waters and two low waters of different relative heights, and that the dif-
ference between the height of the two high waters has reference to the age
of the moon. Senor Don Francisco Carrasco, who has written an elaborate
paper on the subject (translated in Nautical Magazine for July, 1868), thus
speaks of these differences : —

"If we follow the curve during the lunar month, we see that at the be-
ginning of the lunation there is a high water of great comparative impor-
tance ; and another most minute one, corresponding to the passage of the
moon over the inferior meridian (antipodes). The important high water goes
on decreasing in height with the age of the moon, when the heights of both
high waters are nearly equal ; the first goes on decreasing and the second
increasing until full moon, when the great tide of new moon is converted
into the least and this into the largest. Starting from this conclusion, the
same phenomenon presents itself in the large tide diminishing, and the
smaller one increasing, so as to become equal at the last quarter, and at the
next new moon returning to its former greater height and the other to its
lesser." The rise of the tide varies from 3^ to 6 or 7 ft. in Manila Bay.

MINDANAO, or Magindanao, is the southernmost of the Philippine
Islands, and next to Luzon is the largest. It is very little known, but some
trade is done with Labuan. Up to a comparatively recent period the
Spaniards only held the North and N.E. portion of it, leaving the great bay
on the South, and this part of the island in the hands of those pirates whose

CAPE SARANGAXI, OR PANGUITAN. 897

name of Llanuns or lUanuns derived from the bay, spread terror over the
surrounding seas.

Miudanao is about 270 miles long from East to West, and 245 miles from
North to South. Its mountains are of great altitude, and, like many other
islands of the eastern seas, clothed with the richest forest growth nearly to
their summits. There are many volcanoes, some extinct, others more or less
active. Among the latter is Mount Calalan^ in the S.E. part. It is inter-
sected by these mountains in many directions, and in the valleys they form
are many extensive lakes, a circumstance to which the island owes its name.
It is or was divided by the Spaniards into four provinces, that of Caraga on
the N.E. side, Neuva Guipuzcoa on the S.E., Misamis on the N.W., and the
small district of Samhoangan on the South end of the western peninsula.
Of the people little can be said here. M. Meyer estimated the population to
number 191,802, in 1871. The whole of the interior is occupied by those
piratical people of very various races, but known generally as the lUanos or
lUanuns before mentioned. They profess Mohammedanism. The climate is
hot and humid, but from its lying so near the equator, it is beyond the reach
of typhoons. This renders the coast much more safe than it otherwise
would be, although in the extensive bays which indent it there are many
places of shelter.

CAPE SARANGANI, or Panguitan, is the South point of Mindanao. It
is in lat. 5° 35' N., long. 125° 21' E. The land adjacent is lofty, and may be
seen 30 or 40 miles oflf. Off it lie the Sarangani Islands, two in number,
bearing E.N.E. and W.S.AV. of each other, and about South from Cape
Panguitan. The easternmost is much the lowest, and has a hill on its South
end. Linitan is a small low island, about 3 miles northward of the eastern
Sarangani Island, and has reefs projecting from its North, South, and East
points.

The Channel between the cape and the Sarangani Islands is about 5 or 6
miles wide, clear of hidden danger. There is a passage between the islands,
the eastern side of which is the best, as there is a shoal projecting nearly
into mid-channel from the western side in the narrowest part.

To the north-westward, 20 miles distant from the South point, is a deep
bay, with a bank lying S.W. of its western entrance point. It is known as
the Bnhia de Sarangani, and from this the southern coast trends to the north-
westward towards the great bay which so deeply indents the South side of
the island. A sunken rock lies 3 miles off the land in lat. 6° 12' N., long.
124° T E., and a bank West of Leno Bay, in lat. 6° 41' N., long. 123° 55' E.

Illana Bay is 40 miles wide in its opening, and in its eastern part is the

island of Bongo, lying off the mouths of the Rio Grande, the largest river of

Mindanao. It is near the mout of this river, at Cotahatu or Cota Batto, 6

miles from its bar, that the Spanish fort has been established. In the

I. A. 5 y

898 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

eastern part of this bay, at 5 miles N. a E. from the North end of Bongo, is
the Pinatayan Bank, extending to 2 miles off Point Matimioz. The piratical
people of Illana Bay have been known to drag their vessels over the isthmus
to the North shore, to escape pursuit. We have no particulars of the great
bays which lie to the westward of this, named the Puerto de Dumanquilas and
the Seno or Bay of Sihugimj.

Circe Bank, of 3j fathoms, lies on the eastern side of the entrance to Si-
buguey Bay in lat. 7° 17' 30" N., long. 122° 37' 30" E. To the south-
westward of it are two other banks, one of 2f fathoms, N.E. by E. 10
miles from Tanalutan Island, and another, Samar Bank, of 2\ fathoms, at
4 miles E.N.E. of the same island.

SAKBOANGA and its vicinity were surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher in
the Samarang in 1844, the examination including the Santa Cruz Islands
before mentioned. The fort at the eastern end of the town is regularly
built and equipped. It is in lat. 6° 54' 55" N., long. 122° 6' 30' E.
There is a church at the western end. The anchorage off the town is not
good, the bottom being foul and the bank steep, the depth of 12 fathoms
being close in. Samboanga, a free port, is a penal colony of the Spani-
ards, and is not specially adapted for the refreshment or refitment of pass-
ing vessels. Bullocks, fowls, yams, fruits, rice, and vegetables are procur-
able. The water is excellent, and easy to obtain ; it runs behind the beach
in a fine stream, but it should be filled early in the morning, before the
•whole female population commence their washing.

Light. — There is a small pier or mole, at the head of which a red fixed
light is shown, elevated 32 ft. It is in about lat. 6" 54' N., long, 122"
4' E.

Tides. — From information acquired from the Spanish surveying vessel at
Samboangan, it appears that the times of high water and turn of the streams
are extremely irregular, the time of high water, fuU and change, varying
from 7 to 10 hours after the meridian passage of the moon; and the same
phenomena is observed here as in the China Sea, viz., that in the S. TV. mon-
soon the day tide is the highest, and in the N.E. monsoon the highest tide
is at night.

La Colder a is 12 miles westward of Samboanga. It is a small harbour, at
the head of which is a small fort, where the Spanish flag is hoisted to vessels
passing through the Strait of Basilan, and here also is anchorage for ships
when they cannot lie in the open roadstead in front of Samboanga. Eresh
water, but not good, can be procured here. At 2 miles to the N.W. is a
place called Daumalong, with a small stockaded fort. This occupies the S.W.
point of Mindanao, and is the N.W. entrance point of Basilan Strait.

The North- West Coast of Mindanao is more irregular than any other por-

CAMIGUIN ISLAND. 899

tion of the Bisayas Islands. The charts will show its -configuration. The
province of Misamis on the northern side of this portion is the most im-
portant of the island. The principal inlet is the Bahia de Iligan, an extensive
bay, at the head of which, on the western side of a deep inlet, with a low
marshy head called the Lagiina de Pangnil, stands the pueblo of Misamis^ the
chief place of the province, lat. 8° 10' N., long. 123° 49' E. It has some
trade, and is protected from the Moro pirates by a small fort built on the
beach. It is said that the bay and inlet afford safe anchorage even for the
largest ships. The Bay of 2facajalar or Macahalao is 40 miles N.E. of Misa-
mis, and at its South part is the third Spanish post on this coast, that of
Cagayan which is some distance up the river.

Camiguin Island lies to the North of this, and, with the exception of some
shore reefs, is apparently clear. Mr. W. J. J. Spry, E.N., thus describes
the visit of H.M.S. Clmllenger: — " To the East we could see at the distance
of 50 or 60 miles the island of Camiguin, its volcanoes giving out both
smoke and steam. From this distance the volcanoes seemed just on a level
with the water, the most prominent part of the island being an older vol-
cano, which rises up behind the active cone to a height of upwards of 5,000
feet.

"On the morning of the 26th January, 1875, we gradually approached
the island, and at noon were close under the volcano, when parties of natu-
ralists landed to explore, and the vessel proceeded on, and came to anchor
off the little village of Abaji. It seems early in the year 1871 this island
was visited with several violent earthquakes, which resulted in the first
eruption ; from this date the accumulation of the mountain has been going
on gradually, and apparently with little violence. The general colour of the
cone is a rich chocolate brown ; it has now reached some 2,000 ft. in height,
and its base has gradually extended until it entirely covers the town of
Camiguin, formerly the largest on the island (with a population of 10,000
inhabitants). Now only a few ruined walls remain of this town, which was
formerly in one of the most prosperous and fertile of the small islands of
the archipelago. Since the eruptions, the island has become almost deso-
late ; only a few hundred inhabitants remain ; most of the houses are in
ruins, and the paddy fields and groves of flax are deserted and overgrown
with a second jungle. For miles on either side of the volcano the trees are
blighted and vegetation is destroyed by the sulphureous exhalations. Tem-
peratures were taken in 185 fathoms; but that shown 57° was in no way
other than usual at similar depths in these seas."

From this the North coast of Mindanao runs irregularly to the East and
northward, forming the GoJfo de Butuan, which affords good shelter, and
terminates in Point Bilaa, which forms the narrowest part of the Surigao
Passage. A 2 -fathom bank extends nearly 2 miles northward of Point
Bilaa, and between it and Gipdo Island, 6 miles norlli-eu&tward of it, are two

900 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

rocks lying H mile apart, and in the centre of the channel. One of these
is 6 feet below water. This portion of Mindanao forms the province of
Caraga, which is said to possess the chief gold mines of the island. It is
very hilly, covered with a dense vegetation, and is very thinly inhabited.

Surigao, the chief place of the province, is 4 miles to E.S.E. of the above-
mentioned point, and lies on the North side of a small bay of difficult
access. You may anchor in 14 or 15 fathoms, fine grey sand, with the vil-
lage bearing S. by W. 1 or IJ mile. If brought more westerly, it is a chance
if the anchors hold, on account of the violent tides. If intending to water
here, and the wind being at southward and westward, carry all possible sail,
taking care to haul close round Surigao Point between Rozol, or the South-
wood Island and Mindanao, keeping this coast aboard until the village bears
as above. The currents rush past it with great rapidity during the N.E.
monsoon, when this side of the island becomes a lee shore. There are
some building-yards here, and the native vessels are well constructed of
the excellent timber from the adjacent hills and interior mountains, where it
is said that teak is abundant. The people are mild and docile, but several
forts are kept up to prevent piracy.

At 5^ miles northward of Point Bilaa is a small island, 1^ mile E. by N,
from which is a rock which breaks. Gipdo, a high island 5 miles long,
N.N.W. and S.S.E., forms the eastern side of the passage leading to Su-
rigao, the land of Point Bilaa forming the western side. lu the middle of
this passage are two small rocks E.N.E. and W.S.W. a mile apart. Two
miles North from the N.W. end of Gipdo is a small island with a rock just
North from it, Sihanag has a rock oil its southern end 3 miles North from
the last named rock.

The STRAIT of SURIGAO or Panaon, which passes between this North
part of Mindano, and the South point of Panaon is 12 miles broad where
narrowest. To the eastward it is fronted by the group of Surigao Islands,
of which Dinigat, or Gurbo, or Bella Vista is the largest, and is 40 miles long.
This island ofi'ering a direct resistance to the course of the great equatorial
current drifting to the westward across the Pacific in one season, or in the
reverse direction at another, causes the channels separating them and lead-
ing to the Surigao Passage to be most dangerous, from the violent tides and
currents which rush through them. It should therefore be never attempted
from choice, for, in addition to the tidal and drift currents, the course
through must be carried nearly at a right angle, so that it is almost im-
possible to have a fair wind throughout, and in a calm the danger is much
increased, as there are neither soundings nor good anchorage. These re-
marks are especially applicable late in the season, or when there is a chance
of the N.E. monsoon setting in prematurely. But if a ship, in proceeding to
China, should be carried into it by the westerly current not later than the
early part of October, she might ventuie through.

LEYTE. 901

The Eastern Coast of Mindanao is not described, nor visited by commerce,
although the interior country affords much good timber, and abounds with
trees producing large quantities of wax and honey. It is a lee shore much
to be avoided, as before said, during the eastern monsoon.

A singular fact remains to be noticed. Dampier tells us that there is a
large island, 38 miles long, 34 broad, lofty, and covered with forest, called
the Idand of San Juan, lying 30 miles eastward of this coast. Modera
knowledge is not sufficient to affirm satisfactorily that it does not exist, though
it does not appear to have been seen since. Ita existence is therefore in-
credible.

Panaon is 17 miles long from N.N.W. to S.S.E., and at its North end
is a narrow strait separating it from the S.E. point of Leyte. At the North
end of the island is the village of Liloan, and this strait is called the Puerto
di Liloan. It has 7 fathoms least water, and there is anchorage in the small
bay off the village.

LEYTE is the next large island to the N.W. of Mindanao, and is 115 miles
long N.N.W. and S.S.E. It is generally mountainous, and several of its
peaks are quiescent volcanoes. Forests cover a great portion of its surface ;
among the trees, that which produces the "brea," or pitch, is the most
remarkable. Since the active measures which have been taken for the sup-
pression of piracy by the Moros, the population of this island has increased
in a remarkable manner. The people are all of the Visaya race, and have
long been converted to Christianity. The town of Leyte, which gives it its
name, is at the N.W. extremity, but the chief place is Tacloban.

Tacloban, opened to foreign commerce in 1873, is situated at the N.E. end
of the island of Leyte, and at the South entrance of the straits which sepa-
rates Leyte from Samar. It is a safe harbour during both monsoons, but
the passage to it through the Juanico Straits is somewhat difficult for sailing
vessels, owing to the strength of the current running between the island of
Samar and the island of Leyte. To steamers drawing 14 ft. of water there
would be no difficulty in making this harbour.

Leyte is thinly inhabited, and the people of Tocloban are poor and
miserable, as are those of the rest of the island. It is mountainous and
covered with forest. Volcanic craters are found, and sulphur abounds in
some placfis. Cocoa-nut oil is made, but the trees are sometimes destroyed
by hurricanes.

The Strait of San Juanico separates Leyte from Samar. It is about 30
miles in length, and not more than a mile wide in its narrower portions, and
the two sides of the strait being so similar and parallel, lead to the inference
that the two islands were once united. In making for this strait, of the
navigation of which we have no particulars, the Samar or northern shore
must bo kept on board. Its N.W. poitiou is called the Canal de Janabatas.

902 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

To the westward of this the North shore of Leyte forms a deep bay, at the
head of which is the poor village of Carigara, where the first cacao tree was
planted in the Philippines.

Palompon Harhour is an entrance through the reefs on the western shore of
Leyte, in lat. 11° 4' N. Port Bella lies S.E. of and on the opposite side of
the promontory to Palompon. It is in lat. 10° 50' N. Ylongos is on the
S.W. coast of Leyte, in lat. 10° 24' N.

SAMAR is larger than Leyte, and forms a separate province. It was
called Ihahao. Its eastern shore being washed by the Pacific, has but little
shelter, and its north-western side forms the principal entrance from the
great ocean to the Bisayas and other islands of the archipelago. The S.E.
point is continued seaward by a chain of islands, the outer point of the
south-easternmost, called Punta Bangui, is in lat. 10° 54' 30" N., long. 125°
50' E. It is mountainous and lofty, its northern peaks being visible from
Zebu serving as a good mark for the adjacent channels. Like the other
islands it is covered with forest, and in its central portion is a considerable
population of Indians, but not Negritos. Cocoa-nut oil, cacao-bean, abaca
or Manila hemp, wax, pearl oysters, and tortoise shell are the productions,
and the people trade with the Pelew and Mariana Islands. Catbalogan, on
the North side of a bay on its western shore, is the chief town and residence
of the Alcalde.

Puerto de Palapa, on its N.E. end, afi'ords good shelter to vessels about
to pass through the San Bernardino Strait. It is formed by the island of
Batag on the East, and the islands of Laguan and Cahmjagan on the West,
and is a channel about 8 miles long. Off each of its eastern entrance points
reefs extend for some distance, but the channel midway is quite clear, with
depths of from 7 to 12 fathoms. From this the opening is nearly a mile
wide, and extends westward for 3^ miles, when it turns to northward, and
between the islands on either side there are good depths of water for an-
chorage, and a free outlet into the strait to the northward. Good water is
to be got on Laguan Island, which forms the S.W. side of the port, and thero
is a narrow but useless channel to the South of it, which leads into Laguan
Bay. In this bay a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms between Laguan
and the Samar shore, sheltered from East and N.E. winds, but exposed to
the N.W. and West.

From this northern entrance, to the Balicuatro hlands which form the
eastern limit of the Strait of San Bernardino, the distance is 39 miles due
West. To the eastward of Viri, the northernmost of these islands, there is
a bank of soundings, varying from 7 to 35 fathoms, which has been traced
for 16 miles to the E.N E., and may be a guide in approaching the strait.

The Western Coast of Samar. — At the northern part of the coast between
Points Lipata and Quinabasaran there is a slight bay, which, although

THE STRAIT OF SAN BERNAEDINO. 903

having little depth, aflfords good anchorage, particularly in the season of the
N.E. winds, and although at a good distance from it, large rocks are scat-
tered over the sandy bottom, yet when nearer the coast these are not so
numeix)us, and the ground is much cleaner. In the interior of the bay there
is a rivulet from which a vessel may complete her water.

About 1;^ mile from Quinabasaran Point, and E.S.E. from the North end
of Puercos Island, is the mouth of the River Moho, across which there is a
narrow opening with a depth of 2 fathoms at low water. A steam launch
might enter here and obtain water at the cascades, some little distance up
th« river.

About 4 miles S.S.E. of the Eiver Mobo is the little port of Canaguaion.
It may be used by any vessel in case of necessity, and is formed by a bend
in the coast and two islets in its mouth that leaves two narrow channels for
entering and leaving.

The STRAIT of SAN BERNARDINO, which separates the N.W. part of
Samar from the S.E. extremity of Luzon, is named from the small islet which
lies in its eastern entrance. This narrow passage is all to which the name is
applicable, but it has been extended to the whole of the track between the
islands leading towards Manila, formerly the only point of general maritime
interest in the Philippines. It was formerly the great highway for the
Spanish galleons on their way to Manila from Acapulco.

Tides. — The greatest range of tide occurs generally in June and December,
and is about 6 ft. ; the smallest range of tide is about 3^ ft., generally in
March and September.

The phases of the moon have but slight influence on the time of hi»h
water or on the tidal range. The highest tides follow the moon's greatest
declination ; the lowest tides follow the moon's least declination ; at the
moon's greatest North or South declination there is only one flood and one
ebb in the twenty-four hours ; at the moon's least declination there is one
flood and one ebb in twelve hours."

The points on which the pilots are mostly agreed is that in the channel the
water begins to rise at about two hours after the moon is up. That the
greatest rise and fall is 8 ft. That from the eastern mouth of the strait to
about the meridian of Bondog the flood sets westward, and the ebb eastward
when it falls : and that from that meridian to the western mouth'of the strait
the reverse of that takes place. That from the eastern mouth of the strait to
the above meridian, the stream of flood runs longer than that of ebb in the
N.E. monsoon ; the reverse being found in the S.W. monsoon, and the oppo-
site condition to this is found in the western part of the strait. That the
night tides are commonly higher than those of the day.

With the foregoing considerations the navigator may be advised that on

904 THE rniLTPPINE ISLANDS.

entering the strait, he should immediately look to the state of the tide, and
follow up his observations closely while he is in it, and to depend more on
what he sees than on any calculation. (See also pa^e 896.)

In making for the strait from the Pacific, Cape Espiritu Santo, in lat. 12°
32^' N., long. 125° 13' E., the N.E. point of Samar is in general made for.
It is bold high land, and may be seen 12 or 13 leagues oflP. But should the
wind be northerl}' it would be better to make directly for the entrance of the
strait; or you may become embarrassed with the islands and shoals on the
North side of Samar. The entrance to the Emhocadero or strait is contracted
by the Balicuatro Islands before mentioned. The islet of San Bernardino^
covered with trees, many of which are ebony, lies to the N.W. of these,
directly in the entrance of the strait, lat. 12"' 46' N., long. 124° 15' E. There
is a small islet close to it on the North and some rocks on the East side,
otherwise it is clear, and on either side there is a channel 4 or 5 miles wide,
with soundings of from 30 to 60 fathoms. Having passed this island, the
fairway of the strait will bear to S.S.W. between Caput Island, off the N.W.
end of Samar, and Tielin Juag and Colinton Islets, on the Luzon side ; these
are bold-to, but at 2 miles S.W. by S. from the latter island is the Calantas
Bank, surrounded by depths varying from 3^ on the East to 26 fathoms on
the North side. Avoiding this, the passage is clear either to the N.W. by W-
to clear the North end of Ticao in proceeding towards Manila, or to the
southward towards Zebu or Ilo-ilo. There is a channel to the East of Capul
Island, between it and Puercos Island, which is 2 miles wide, with reefs on
the port hand, but a rock of 2f fathoms, called El Diamante, lies in its
southern entrance, 2 miles S.S.E. of the South end of Capul. There is no
anchorage around Capul, except at a bay at its South end, but it may be had
around Puercos Island.

TICAO, the first island to the westward, is 24 miles long. Port San Ja-
cinto, about the middle of its N.E. side, is an anchorage sometimes used in
passing the strait. It may be known by a building or fort with round bas-
tions on a rocky cliff, the land rising behind it. It is in lat. 12° 34' N., long.
123° 44' E. The anchorage in the road is in 15 or 16 fathoms, sand and
gravel, a little more than half a mile off shore, with the house or fort bear-
ing S.W. f W., a pyramidal rock to the southward of it, South, thesugarloaf
hill on Luzon N. ^ W., and the mouth of Sorsogon Harbour N. by E. f E.
13 miles. The bank is steep, so anchor as soon as possible. There is very
little stream in the road. High water at 6^ hours ; rise 6 ft. The South
point of the entrance to the harbour is fronted by a reef which stretches
along shore to the southward ; and a reef projects nearly half a mile from a
point where there is a black rock, about a mile to the North from the North
point of the harbour's mouth. The latter is contracted by a reef on the South
side, but inside the harbour there is room for several ships. The northern

MASBATE. 005

arm being very shoal, vessels are obliged to anchor on the South side, with
the entrance partly open. The watering place is about 2 miles to the north-
ward. Good beef and fruits may be procured. It was in this port that the
galleons from Manila awaited a favourable wind for their voyage to Acapulc(j.
At o miles to the N.W. is Togagauno Bay, and at the N. W. end of the island
is the bay or port of &an Miguel, protected from the East.

SIASBATE is the next of the Visayas Islands, south-westward of Ticao.
It is somewhat of a crescent form, 36 miles long, and has a chain of moun-
tains running along its entire length, from the slopes of which the rivulets
bring down sufficient gold to make the washings for it payable. It is very
thinly inhabited. Puerto Barreras, near the N.W. point, offers safe anchor-
age, but requires great care in entering. Its S.E. point. Cape Caduljuan,
has a reef around it, a continuation of that fronting the East coast of the
island. The land surrounding this port is for the most part mountainous
and of a red colour, from whence it seems that various handsome patterns of
wood are obtained. There is no watering place in the bay, and therefore a
vessel must send well up the river for it. The town is at a considerable
distance from its mouth, and has thirty or twice that number of families in
it from Balino, very poor in spite of the beautiful place, and the washings
for gold hard by. The natives are held in such terror that the inhabitants
dare not even go to fishing in the bay.

The N.E. part of Masbate from the Baj' of Mobo as far as Port Magda-
lena has anchoring ground of 30 to 35 fathoms at half a mile off shore. The
Port of Magdalena, in lat. 12° 27i' N., long. 123° 33' E., is very small, but is
an excellent anchorage, for notwithstanding being open to the N.W. it may
be considered safe in all seasons. Even a large vessel may be secured with
as many fastenings as required to trees, and although she might be blown
on shore with the few winds to which it is exposed, she would come to no
harm on mud. The margin of the port has no settlement, but about l^-mile
to the westward is the town of Baliuo, containing about eighty families, in
the inlet of which there is shelter for small boats, and a small river. Some
vegetables, fowls, and honey, are all that is to be had there.

Between Masbate and Sibuyan are several known dangers. Bennet Bank
is a patch of sand and mud, a mile in diameter, its centre being in lat.
12° 24' N., long. 123° 6' E. It bears S.W. f S. 15 miles from Bugui Point,
the N.W. point of Masbate. At 7 miles S.S.W. from it is a sunken rock.
A 4^-fathom patch lies 4 miles West of Mirabeles Point, the North point of
entrance of Nin Bay. Las Llagas is the name given to five patches, sepa-
rated by deep water, lying in the middle of the strait. Of these the northern-
most, in lat. 12° 15' N., long. 122° 64' E., has only 4 ft. water over it. At 3
jniles South from this is a 2|-fathom patch, and S. ^ W. of this is a patch of
3£ fathoms. There is a depth of 107 fathoms between the two h.sL men-

I. A 5 z

906 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

tioned. The easternmost has only If fathom water over it, and lies in lat.
12° 13' N., long. 122° 59' E., 5 miles E.S.E. from the northernmost. A
sunken rock lies 4 miles S.W. from the eastern patch.

Cervera Bank, of 1| fathom, lies S.E. by E. ^ E. 8 miles from Cambalayan
Point, the East point of Sibuyan, in lat. 12° 21' N., long. 122° A^' E. At
IJ mile East from it is another small bank. Perseus Bank is 4| miles S.S.W.
from Cervera Bank, and another bank is marked at 2 miles S.W. from it.

Cresta de Gallo is a small islet, S.E. | S. 6 miles from Point Cauit, the
South point of Sibuyan. Shoal water extends a mile North from it, and 3^
miles to the S.S.W. Prueha Bank, of 6 fathoms, lies South from Point
Cauit, and N.W. from the Cresta de Gallo, and there are two 4i-fathoni
patches, one lying N.N.E. 3 miles, and the other S.E. by E. the same dis-
tance from the Cresta de Gallo.

ZEBU or Cebu is an island of some importance and interest, as its port has
been thrown open to foreign commerce. The island is 120 miles long, and
narrow, with ranges of hills of no great height traversing it in a longitudi-
nal direction. The town of Zebu, the oldest in the Philippine Islands, and
the seat of government of the southern Philippines, lies in an extensive
and well ctiltivated plain, at the foot of the mountains, and is considered
healthy.

The population consists of 80,000, principally Malays and Chinese. The
huts of the poorer Malays, mostly fishermen, on the sea shore, constitute the
western part of the town, while beyond them stand numerous massive houses,
with good streets. The town is well built, and has large barracks, two
churches, and a lazaretto. Zebu has also a naval station.

The exports consist chiefly of sugar, hemp, tobacco, coflPee, and piiia lace ;
the imports embrace European goods, rice, and coal. Coal is imported from
Australia ; a vessel cannot depend upon a supply with certainty. There is
coal on the island, but not properly mined. Provisions are plentiful. In
1874, 6,933 tons of shipping entered at Zebu.

The channel between Zebu and Leyte is clear as far as is known, with the
exception of the following banks, which are easily avoided. Calangaman
Inland is low, and lies S.E. \ E. 15 miles from the N.E. extreme of Zebu.
Its western end should not be approached within 3 miles. Capatancillo is
another small, low island, 2 miles off the coast of Zebu, and S.W. 12 miles
from Calangaman. Shoal water extends 4 miles N. by E. from it. About
midway between Zebu Island and that of Mactan, E.N.E. of the city, are
the Camote Islands against the Leyte shore, but which leave good channels
around but not between them.

The Port of Zebu is protected by the small island of Mactan or Magtan,
before mentioned. It is about 9 miles long, and the town lies in about mid-

ZEBU. 907

way througli the strait on the shore of the larger island. The strait forming
Port Zebu is easily navigated, as there is always the ripple on the edges of
the banks, and their colour marks the channel. Fort Zebu is a triangular
building, painted red, and armed with small guns.

On the small island of Mactan, Magellan was killed, soon after he first
discovered the Philippines in 1521. In memory of the great navigator,
Queen Isabella II. has erected a conspicuous monviment.

Light. — A small fixed light, elevated 46 ft., is shown on Bagaca Point, the
West side of the northern entrance to the Port of Zebu. It is difficult to
distinguish from fishing lights shown in the vicinity. Lat. 10° 4' N., long.
123' 59^ 20' E.

The narrow channel entrance bears about S.S.W. from the light, and in
entering, the South or Mactan side should be kept, as a shoal extends a
great part of the way over the channel from the opposite side, but in mid-
channel there is nothing to pick up a ship in her route to the town, the fort
forming the outer point of the city. From this to the southern entrance the
route is also clear, but in mid-channel in the southern opening is the Bajo
Lipata (mentioned below), which must be cautiously approached.

The best anchorage ofi" Zebu is S.S.W. of the fort, in 5 to 7 fathoms, mud ;
nearer the southern reef the water is deeper, and bottom hard. From the
anchorage ofi' the fort a south-westerly course should be steered until the
dome of San Nicholas church bears N. i E., when a course of S. \ W. leads
in the fairway between Lipata Bank and the reef on Mactan Island.

The harbour is difficult of access for large vessels from the North, owing
to the narrowness of the channel, unless with a leading wind. With a fair
wind it is not dangerous, the passage between being deep enough, and only
requiring to be less imperfectly buoyed off. To the South the entrance is
more open and easy of access, though care is required to avoid the Lepata
and Narvaez shoals.

H.M.S. Challenger visited Zebu in January, 1875, one object of her visit
being to obtain some specimens of the beautiful sponge Euplectella or Venus'
baskets, said only to be obtained near Zebu. " The pinnace, taking guides
who knew the bank where they grow, went out to get some. The natives
lowered their apparatus — a bamboo triangle of two sides, on which thirty-six
fish-hooks are fastened ; with this they always brought several up, some-
times as many as ten. They were very fine specimens, the skeletons covered
■with brownish animal matter, but so that the skeleton tracing was not hidden,
while the top is usually bare. One day's drying in the sun will take the
animal matter off, leaving the bleached skeleton clean." — Lord George
Campbell.

Dalaguete Village, about 40 miles southward of Zebu, is marked by a
conspicuous church, which may be seen a long distance both from the North

908 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

and South. On Tanon Point, the southern point of Zebu Island, there ia
also a larg'e villasre, with a church. Sumilon Island, lying to the N.E. of
Taiion Point, is about 150 ft. h\^\\.

Bohul forms a part of the province of Zebu. It is about 50 miles long,
and possesses no point of commercial interest. Its North and West coasts
are bounded by rocky shoals, and to the N.E. the channel between it and
Levte is nearly closed, but a narrow passage will be found close to the Leyte
shore, between it and the small island of Camigao. A l|-fathom patch lies
7 miles North of Point Acio, the eastern point of Bohul, 2 miles off shore.
Fmfio^ or Siquijor Island, 20 miles to the S.W. of Bohul, has also nothing to
be described. A sunken rock lies 2 miles off its N.E. coast, N.E. from the
highest peak.

Cervera Rock is 2 cables long, N.E. and S.W., and has 13 ft., coral and
sand, on its shoalest part. From the rock, the S.W. extreme of Bohul
Island bears N. 60° W., the North extreme of Pamilacan Island N. 82° E.,
the South extreme S. 88^ E., the Mount N.E. of Pangalo N. 4° E.

NEGROS was formerly called Baglas. It is 110 miles long, and although
larger, is not so rich or populous as Zebu. Its interior is but little known,
but is peopled by the Negritos, who have given the name to the island.
The villages are generally built on the sea shore, with the exception of
Tanay and Hoc, which are in the interior. The chief place of the island is
Jimamailan or Urmamaylan, about the centre of the western coast, seated on
an open bay at the mouth of a small river, over the bar of which small craft
are floated by means of bamboos placed under their keels. The only har-
bour deserving of mention is Bacolot, opposite to the island of Guimaras,
against the Panay shore. From the North point an extensive reef extends
for 20 miles, connecting it with Bantayan Island. The western side is in
general safe and sandy, but the eastern side is very dangerous, especially in
the South, where the Strait of Tanon separates it from Zebu. This is not
more than 2 miles in width, and subject to most violent currents.

BTJRIAS is a long, narrow island, 40 miles from N.W. to S.E. by 5 miles
broad. Its surface is rocky and hilly ; rice, tnaize, and abaca (hemp), are
the chief products. It was long without inhabitants, or only visited by
piratical Moros, but is now used as a place of transportation for criminals
from Manila, and, in order to create an excellent population, abandoned
women are also sent here.

Busin. — At its N.W. end is the harbour of San Jose or Busin, formed by
the island of San Joso, with Fort San Pascual on a hill commanding the
narrowest part. There is a safe entrance from theN.E., as well as a narrow
one from the westward ; but the tollowing off-lying dangers require men-
tioning. At 2 miles North from the East end of Busin Island, and 4 miles
W.S.W. from the small island oi Anima Sola, is a sunken rock. Numerous
islets and dangers extend N.W. to the distance of 2 miles from the West end

TANAY. 909

of Busin, and N.N.W. 2.\ miles from this end is a small detached islet, with
a bank N.N.E. a mile from it. Templo Island, 3 miles long W.N.W. and
E.S.E., with sunken rocks off each of its extremities, lies 3 miles West of
Busin. Sombrero Islets are 2 miles West of Templo Island ; and Sand Island,
2 miles West of Sombrero Islets, has sunken rocks to 2 miles off its North
end.

£i/ night the entrance of Busin Harbour is facilitated by three fixed lights —
one at the North entrance, a second at the West entrance, and the third on
the end of the bank. Brought in one with the last they lead through the
respective channels. The N.E. side of Busin is quite bold-to, but a reel pro-
jects from its S.W. side.

Busainga Harhoiir is on the N.E. coast, 6 miles South from the Anima Sola
Itock, which lies off the North point of Burias. A fixed blue light is shown
here.

Boca Engano Harbour is about 15 miles from the S.E. point. Its position
is marked, by night, by a blue fixed light.

Malaguing Gilog Harbour is on the S.W. coast, about 12 miles from Boca
Engano. Its situation is also shown by a blue light at night.

We have no particulars of these three last-named ports or anchorages.

PANAY is, next to Luzon, the most important of the Philippines, and is
the largest of the Visayas Islands. It is, for its area, the most fertile and
densely populated. It is somewhat of a triangular form, 95 miles long, and
with an area of 3,960 square geographical miles. A chain of high moun-
tains runs from North to South throughout its whole extent ; but little is
knojvn of the interior. From its physical features, being abundantly ele-
vated, and lying in the midst of the archipelago, it is a flourishing island ;
and. the opening of its chief port Ilo-ilo to foreign commerce, will lead to
a great advance in its commercial prosperity. It is divided into three pro-
vinces, Capiz on the North, Ilo-ilo on the East, and Antigue on the western
shore. The population of the whole island was estimated to number
1,052,586 in 1875.

Between the S.W. point of Masbate and the N.E. point of Panay is the
island of Jintotolo, with a reef ofi' its western part, and 8 miles W.S.W,
from it are the two Zapatas, nearly of the same size and height. Zapata
Menor being 270, and Zapata Mayor 260 ft. high, the former bare, and the
latter wooded and partially cultivated. Jintotolo is flat, and thickly wooded
to the water's edge, the trees being about 120 ft, high ; it is apparently
uninhabited.

The Capiz Coast, or North side of Panay, is about 80 miles in extent.

There are numerous off-l^ing reefs about its western part, and therefore it
should not be made free with. At 19 miles West of the eastern point is the
island Oliitaya, surrounded by a reef, with no good channel inside it, but
that botweeu it and Zapato Menor is quite safe. Pimta Bulacaue, the N.E.

910 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

point of Panay, is low, and in lat. 11° 36' 30", long. 123° 13' E. It is sur-
rounded by a reef, and at from 5 to 6 miles N.N. E. of it there is a dangerous
reef of 18 ft. least water, called the Cuearacha. A dangerous If -fathom
patch also lies 3 miles off shore, at 10 miles W.S.W. from it.

The Silanga Islands lie off the N.E. point of Panay. This portion of
the Philippine Islands, comprising the strait between Panay and Negros
with the South and S.W. coasts of the former island, were surveyed by Lieut,

D. Claudio Montero, of the Spanish navy, in 1854, and therefore the charts
are deserving of more confidence here.

The Gigantes Islands, North and South, are the north-easternmost of these.
A bank extends eastward from the northern one, but there is a 12-feet
channel between them, and the channels West of them are open. Calagnan
and Sicojan Islands, both high, lie about 8 miles S.W. of them. A 4-fathom '
bank lies 2h miles South from the South point of the latter. The most con-
spicuous land-mark here is the Pan de Azucar, or Sugar-loaf Island, the
summit of which is in 11° 17' N. A series ot islands extends south-westward
from it towards the Strait of Iloilo, but they are generally bold -to. Tagil is
next South of the Pan de Azucar, separated from it by a narrow but shoal
channel. Between the South end of Tagil and the Panay shore is the an-
chorage of Bacahuan, in the strait separating the islands.

A written description of the shoals which encumber the channel North of
Negros and S.E. of the Gigante Islands would be useless ; they can only be
understood from the chart.

Taguhanhan Island is the last of the larger islands, and has a safe channel
on either side. At 1^ mile North from its N.W. part is Apiton, where there
is a watering place. From this to the Calahazas Islets is 5 miles, and at 1^
mile S.S.W. of them, and the same distance off the Panay shore is a sunken
lock, the Pepitas.

Turia Rock lies in this part of the channel, and is verg dangerous. It
presents a surface of 33 yards, over which there is no more than 5^ ft. water,
with 8 fathoms close to.

The commander of the gun boat Prueha took the following bearings from
a spot 73 yards North of the said rock, in 4J fathoms : — the S.E. part of
Anauayan Island N. 47° 20' E. ; the South part of Ilacaon Island, S. 85° 52'

E. ; the North part of the Calabazas Isles, N. 63° 14' W. ; Yisita Manapla,
S. 11° 10' E. ; and the North part of the southernmost of the Binanan Isles,
S. 29° E. ; placing the rock in lat. 11° 2' 15" N., long. 123° 5' E.

ILOILO having been opened to foreign commerce, as before said, pos-
sesses more interest than most other ports in the Philippines. The town
or village stands on a low point of land at the eastern entrance of a creek
near the S.W. end of the strait which forms the harbour. H.M.S. Challenger
visited Hoilo in October, 1874, and obtained a supply of coal. A few English
merchants were there doing business in sugar and hemp. The town was

ILOILO. 911

found to be not at all attractive, part of it being flooded at high water, and
the streets generally in a dirty condition. In 1875, 52 vessels entered Iloilo,
aggregating 35,453 tons, of which 14,886 were British.

The Isla de Gwimaras, 22 miles long by 3 in breadth, forms in front of
Iloilo a sheltered passage, running N.E. and S.W., with a breadth varying
from 2^ to 6 miles, with deep water and good anchorage. The best entrance
which is from the South, is considerably narrowed by tho Otong Bank, which
stretches from the Panay shore to the W.S.W. for a considerable distance,
above 4 miles, and is increasing to the westward. The channel is clear to
the southward of it, and there is a narrower one to the northward. It is no
obstacle when once made out during the S.W. monsoon, and with a contrary
or N.E. monsoon, vessels can work or drag through with the tide, keeping
well over towards Guimaras, anchoring, if necessary, on the edge of the
sand, which affords good holding ground. This southern entrance should
be used by all large ships if unprovided with a pilot. The edges of the
Otong Bank are marked by fishing stakes, and at its N.E. end there is good
anchorage.

If blowing hard in the southern channel a vessel may proceed to Port
Buluagan or Santa Ana, on the West side of Gruimaras, which is easy of
access, and capable of admitting vessels of large tonnage, and affords good
shelter under almost any circumstances.

The Fort of Iloilo occupies the extremity of a low spit, with deep water
close-to. It is in lat. 10° 41' 50", long. 122° 36' E. The town lies on the
beach to the N.W. of it, and to the North of it is the entrance of the river
or creek, on the South point of which is a post-house, or Ventay, a small
bamboo watch-box. It is high water, full and change, at 12 o'clock ; rise
5 1 feet.

The strait beyond this assumes a more northerly direction, with the shore
bold- to on the eastern side. At 7 miles to the north-eastward in the eastern
entrance of the Narrows, is a cluster of remarkable rocks, called the Stete
Fecados, the Seven Sins Pocks. At IJ mile East of them is the West end
of the Iguana Bank, a narrow spit 2J miles long East and West, with 6 feet
least water. The best channel is to the North of it, but it is also clear to the
southward. Fimta Dumangas forms the N.E. point of the entrance.

Having arrived at the southern entrance of the strait according to the di-
rections subsequently given, you will at once see at daybreak whether it is
ebb or flood tide ; if ebb, it is necessary to stop at anchor till it turns (that
is with the wind at N.E.), as with the flood tide you can easily work up in
short tacks under the Guimaras shore. A bank lies in the bay, on the West
side of Guimaras, 3 miles South from Iloilo Fort. Making Iloilo Strait from
the southward, Bondulan Point, which is high and bold, should be brought
to bear N.E. J N., and steered for until the remarkable clump of trees in
Iloilo is seen. These trees brought about half their width open of the point,

912 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

until the southern angle of the fort opens of Bondulan Point, will lead clear
of the Otou Bank. In thick or hazy weather, when you canuot see the fort
(which is very seldom the case), you must never bring the point of Bondulan
on Ouimaras to the East of N.E. ^ E. ; bui keeping the fort a little open of
this point is the best leading mark with a fair wind. "When past Point
Boudulan, and the wind is fair, you ought to keep the fort a little on the
port bow.

The best anchorage to load is with the fort bearing S.W. ^ W., and the
small bamboo watch-box near the port entrance of the river N.W. ^ N. It
is dangerous to keep near the starboard entrance of the river, as the surf is
heavy at times, and the tide runs strong. At spring tides high water a vessel
drawing 16 ft. can come out, but at ordinary tides only 15 ft. Always have
a pilot for entering the river.

The depth of water on the bar at the entrance of the creek or river Iloilo
is about 10 ft. at low water, but within the river there are nearly 2^ fathoms
with the sides of a vessel nearly touching the mangroves, and off the
town it deepens to 5 fathoms. A vessel drawing about 15 ft. can enter or
leave ; and when, as is proposed, a dredging machine is employed to clear
away the mud which has been allowed to accumulate at the shallower parts
near the entrance, vessels of almost any burthen will be able to complete
their cargoes. The banks of the creek being of soft mud, there is little or
no risk to be apprehended from grounding. Proceeding about IJ mile up
the creek, the coasting craft bring up at the jetties of their respective owners,
and have the great advantage of discharging and loading at the stores with-
out employing boats. Coasting vessels can go beyond this point as far as
Molo by passing a drawbridge.

The channel for entering the river is marked hy four beacons (1864), formed
each of three piles, two on each bank. The direction of the channel is
N. 7° W., and the depth in the channel is 14 ft. at lowest tides, deepening
to 17 ft. inside the bar. Great care should be used to guard against the
violent currents in the entrance.

The country around Iloilo is well cultivated, the inhabitants quiet, and
apparently industrious. The chief exports are sugar, sapan wood, tobacco,
hides, hemp, and rice. The women make large quantities oi pina goods from
the fibres of the pine-apple leaf, and from cotton, silk, and hemp. Fresh beef
is cheap and good, and by giving a few days' notice two or three hundred
bullocks could be procured, each weighing about 200 lbs., at the rate of about
7 dollars a bullock. Powls, eggs, &c., may be obtained.

Provisions and coolies are much cheaper, and good water can always be
got to the North and South of the village of Tilas, opposite to Iloilo on
the Guimaras shore. The tide changes very suddenly, and runs down very
strongly.

Fort Santa Ana, or Buluagan, on the West coast of Guimaras Island, 10

ILOILO-DIllECTIONS. 91.3

miles S.S.W. of Iloilo, affords excellent shelter. It is a landlocked basin,
a mile in extent, with from 3 to 9 fathoms water. The entrance channel
runs East and West. The South side is the best, as there is a sunken rock
on the North side of the entrance, and a spit runs off from the North point.
Within the harbour, towards its head, is another sunken rock, which must
be looked to in seeking an anchorage. There is a river of good water at the
head of the bay.

DIRECTIONS. — The ensuing remarks by Mr. Vice-Consul Loney, as to the
routes toward Iloilo, will be applicable generally to the navigation of the
inner channels of the Philippine Islands either to the port in question or
towards Manila or Zebu.

South- West Monsoon. — Vessels making the voyage from Australia or any
place to the southward of the Philippines, will find it the best course in the
S. W. monsoon to enter the Philippine Archipelago by the Strait of Basilau
(page 894), between that island and Samboangan ; and in passing Point
Batalampon, the S.W. point of Mindanao, to keep well up to Point Gorda,
58 miles to the northward, and the N.W. point of the western peninsula of
Mindanao, and make the Murcielagos Islands, 17 miles farther to the N.E.,
and thus avoid being swept off to the westward by the strong currents setting
from off the Mindanao coast during both monsoons.

After passing the Murcielagos, the high land of Negros soon becomes
visible, and the course is clear and safe along its western side towards the
island of Guimaras. When off the S.W. point of Guimaras, the route is
direct for the narrow channel between that island and Iloilo. On makina:
and entering this channel, care should be taken to keep on the Guimaras
shore, so as to clear the Otong Shoal. This shoal, being of soft sand, may
be approached pretty closely, in the event of its being necessary to beat
through. The tides run through the passage with considerable strength ;
but if unable to make head against the ebb, bring up on the edge of the
shoal, and wait for the flood to the northward.

The North-East Monsoon. — During this monsoon it is generally considered
to be the best route for ships from Australia to Manila, to make a detour to
the eastward of the Philippines, and enter the Archipelago by the Strait of
San Bernardino. In coming from Australia to Iloilo, it will therefore be
advisable, during the period of northerly wind, to beat up outside as far as
Samar, and enter the Bernardino Straits by that island and Masbate. If
bound from Manila, or ports to the northward, vessels may also safely proceed
towards Iloilo through the Mindoro Passage, and onwards through the chain
of islands off the N.E. coast of Panay. After passing Tablas and Eomblon,
the latter with an excellent light and a good harbour, make for the Silangas
Islands, the group off the N.E. end of Panay, a good mark for which is the
high conical island, the Pan de Azucar, M'hich is visible from a great dis-
I. A. 6 a

914 TEE rniLirriNE islands.

tance. In approaching these islands during the N.E. monsoon, vessels
should keep along between the islets of Jintotolo and the larger Zapata;
and during the S.W. monsoon move in towards the Pan ay shore, between
Olutaya and Zapato Menor. After leaving the Zapatas, the course is to the
northward or southward of the Gigantes, as preferred, and the channel
through the group of islands is generally entered between Sicogon and Ca-
lai'uan, from whence the route is continued past Culebra, Pan de Azucar,
Bagabu, and Tagubanhan, though for vessels of heavy tonnage it may
possibly be found preferable to adopt the outer and broader passage between
the groups of islands and Negros, keeping within 2 or 3 miles of the Negroa
shore, in order to avoid the dangerous Turia Rock, described on p. 910.

If the inner route among the islands be taken, good anchorage will be
found throughout, more particularly at Pan de Azucar and at Bacauan or
La Concepcion. At Bacauan assistance and supplies may be had through
the commandant of the district, and at Apiton good water and live stock can
be obtained. After passing Tagubanhan, and emerging into the broad
channel (after passing the Turia Eoek above mentioned), the best course
is to steer direct for the highest land visible on the island of Guimaras, care
being taken to clear the Calabazas and the Pepitas Eock, and then proceed
as above directed.

It should be remarked that the coast from the Gigantes to Iloilo affords
good anchorage, and vessels have been known to ride out heavy gales in the
open channel between Negros and Panay.

The ebb tide to the North of the Pepitas Eock runs to the eastward, but
to the South of it it sets to the West. It runs through the Silanga Islands,
and as far as the Seven Sins, about 3 or 4 miles an hour, but in the strait,
owing to its being so constricted, it is said to run at 6 or 7 miles an hour.

From Manila to Iloilo, the best and safest route, according to Captain
Ganswyk, is to proceed along the West coast of Panay, or close along the
coast of the Province of Antiques), at any season, because the West monsoon
is not very regular, and seldom or ever blows strongly between the Cuyos
Archipelago and Panay, or to the North of Basilan. To the North and
along the East coast of Mindoro is safe and easy, and if it should happen
that you meet with strong S.W. winds near Tablas, it is time enough then
to keep off aud go along the East coast of Panay. The South coast of Panay
is free from dangers till near the Oton Shoal, and the wind scarcely ever
blows on the land. The bights along the coast have deep water, and you
can work close in-shore, or from point to point, with perfect safety ; but
there is no good anchorage, as the coast is steep, and the holding ground not
good. You may sail close to the West side of Panay, or the coast of An-
tiques anywhere to the South of Balhatan Island, lat. 11° 36° N., which is
very steep, only avoiding Maralison Island, lat. 11° 20' N., which has a reef

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 915

to the East and West, and sunken rocks near the shore at Nalupa, in laf.
ir IV N., and at San Jose in lat. 10'' 44' N. There is also a 6-fathom
patch near Tibiao in lat. 11° 18' N. "When you double the S.W. point of
Panay during the night, you must not go too close to the islands off it,
Juraojurao, off the South extreme, and N^ugas, which is 4 miles to the W.N.W.,
as both of them have reefs around them to the southward, but not to a great
distance. When clear to the eastward of these islands, and not too far South,
you may safely steer N.E. by E. 32 miles without any danger ; but at that
distance it is necessary to lie-to during the night ; or, if the night is very
clear, to run in towards the shore of Panay, and steer carefully along the
coast, at the same time keeping the lead going, and as soon as you are in
shoal water to anchor at once till daylight, because if you keep over tow^irrls
the Guimaras shore (particularly during the N.E. monsoon), you will find
no anchorage, and will lose ground. Thence proceed as above directed.

The voyage from Iloilo to Manila, during the north-easterly monsoon
(from November to March), usually occupies the better class of square rigged
vessels from 10 to 15 days, and from 4 to 6 on the return voyage. Owing: to
the protection afforded by the chain of the Silanga Islands, and by other
harbours on the route, the Iloilo vessels do not (as is usually the case be-
tween the ports on the northern part of the more exposed coast of Luzon
and the capital) lay up during the stormy months from September to No-
vember, and communication, though less frequent during these months, is
seldom altogether suspended.

The Coast of Antique, as the western coast of Panay is called, from its
being the province of that name, runs nearly North and South. General
directions for it have been just given. It is commercially unimportant, for
the people are not so industrious as those of other parts of this fertile island.
During the S.W. monsoon it is in general highly dangerous to approach it,
and at this period the coasters scarcely venture out for fear of pirates. There
are one or two points where ships call for water and provisions. It is com-
posed of alternate hills or mountains, and plains, and when the rice grounds
are green some parts appear very pleasant. Generally the temperature is
agreeable, and the climate healthy.

Aniguig, near the South point, may afford some refreshments ; it is in a
deep bay. The country inland and for some distance is formed by a ridge
of rugged mountains, called the Cresta de Gallo, the Cockscomb Mountains
forming part of the great chain which runs through the length of the
island.

San Jose de Buenavista, 17 miles from the S.W. point of the island, and
in lat. 10° 45', is with the village of Antique, 3 miles southward, considered
to form the capital of the province. It is a miserable place, founded in 1 733,
with a few forts to guard against pirates. There is good anchorage off it,
but it is not safe, and, as a sunken rock exists, should not be approached at

916 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

night. It is a convenient place for water and refreshments, as a Spanish
resident will lend his aid. In coming here with a brisk wind, sail must be
reduced in time, as the bank is very steep, decreasing rapidly from 30 to 7
or 8 fathoms, th'e proper depth.

To the northward of San Jose the coast may be approached with caution,
and in daylight to within 3 or 4 miles. But caution should be used, as the
coast is not well known. Napula (or Nalupa), in lat. 11° 10^', is 25 miles
North of San Jose, and 5 miles southward of Tiliao, a small pueblo on a
projecting point. Also while proceeding southward from the village of
Tibiao on the West coast of Panay Island, Captain Fagg obtained soundings
on a coral reef well known to the small coasters, off the pueblo or village of
Napula ; some parts of the reef appeared awash, but he had H fathom with
the village of Nalupa bearing E. by S., distant about 2 to 2^ miles. In lat.
11° 20' is the high island of Maralison, and 4 miles farther North is the low
point of Lipata, surrounded by a reef ; 9 miles North of this is the larger
islet of Balhatan or Maniguig. A bank exists near the coast, Ih miles North
of Point Lipata. Point Pucio, the westernmost point of Panay, is in lat.
11° 46|^' N., long. 121° 50' E., and has a rock near it.

The outlying rocks off the West Coast of Panay belong more particularly
to the Suiu Sea, and are hereafter described.

THE SULU SEA.

The space included between the Sulu Archipelago on the South, to Min-
doro on the North, and having the Philippine Islands on the East, and Pa-
lawan on the West, is distinguished by the term of the Sulu Sea, or some-
times as the Sea of Mindoro. Although of great depth (1,778 fathoms), this
sea is thought to have no greater depths than 250 fathoms in the passages
■which join it with the surrounding seas. The deep sea temperatures, taken
by Commander Chimmo, showed that from a surface temperature of 84° in
each sea the thermometer fell to 55" at 200 fathoms, and 37° at 1,600 fa-
thoms in the China Sea. While in the Sulu Sea, although it was the same
at 200 fathoms, yet the bottom temperature was 50°, or about equal to that
at a depth of 300 fathoms in the China Sea. He therefore argues, from this
and other data, that the water filling the deep basin of the Sulu Sea cannot
be drawn from a greater depth than 250 or 300 fathoms out of the surround-
ing seas.

Winds. — The N.E. monsoon in the Sulu Sea prevails from December to
June. The first burst of the S.W. monsoon was experienced at Ho Ho on
the 10th of June (1871), when it blew a heavy gale from that direction,

THE SULU SEA. 917

•with torrents of rain, the wind shifting to the N.E. again two or three days
afterwards, and blew generally from that direction at Zebu and Camiguin in
the middle of July.

Crossing the Sulu Sea in H.M.S. Nassau, during July, the wind was light,
from W.N.W. to N.W., with heavy clouds in the S. W. and gloomy weather.
On her arrival at Cagayan Sulu, the wind shifted to S.E., after which it
blew from N.W. to S.W., squally, with heavy continuous rain. Between
Cagayan Sulu and Labuan the winds were light and variable.

Currents. — During the N.E. monsoon the current runs regularly in the
direction of the wind, and varies in strength according to the force of the
wind. In the early months of this monsoon, when the wind blows strongest,
the current runs with the velocity of a mile an hour, decreasing to about
half a mile an hour in May and June.

The eastern limits of the Sulu Sea have been just described ; the coast of
Palawan is given in former pages, from the surveys and remarks of Captain
Bate. The Sulu Group is also described previously.

The North-East Coast of Borneo is so little known that to describe it3
shores and dangers would be useless. We, therefore, only notice its more
important harbours and their off-lying dangers. Unsang Anchorage has
been mentioned on page 888.

SANDAKAN HARBOUR.— In 1873 a trading settlement was established
at Sandakan Bay, very centrally situated for collecting the valuable pro-
ductions of that neighbourhood. The subsequent hostile operations of the
Spaniards against the people of the Sulu Archipelago have given additional
importance to this place, and the bay is visited by a steamer from Labuan.

Caution is necessary in approaching Sandakan Harbour, as the shoals in
the neighbourhood are imperfectly known ; to the north-westward they are
said to extend 7 miles from the shore. The entrance of Sandakan Harbour
may be recognized by Bahalatolis Island, situated on the western side of tho
entrance of the harbour, in lat. 5° 50' N., long. 118° 11' E. The south-
eastern side of the island descends abruptly from a height of 980 ft., while
the north-western side slopes gradually. The islets on the reef extending
North from this island are densely covered with wood.

The shoal of 13 ft., lying on the eastern side of the entrance seaward of
Towsan Dooyon Island, does not show by discoloured water. The S.E.
point of Bahalatolis Island bearing S.S.W. leads clear of dangers on either
hand, and when the island is passed the vessel may steer direct for the an-
chorage abreast Buy Island.

G-ood anchorage will be found well inside the entrance on the western
shore, in from 9 to 6 fathoms, with a high peak bearing N.W. The Hertha
anchored in mid-channel in 10^ fathoms, mud, with the N.E. point of Buy
Island, bearing S.S.E., about 10 miles distant from the European settlement.

918 THE SULU SEA.

There are two small villages in the harbour, also a station of the Labuau
Trading Company. Firewood and good water can be obtained from the
natives, but no other supplies.

Tides. — The flood tide in Sandakan Harbour sets at the rate of a half to
\^ knot for 6 hours, the last 3 hours being after the turn of low water; and
the ebb at the rate of a half to 1 J knot for 18 hours.

There are several islands lying to the north-eastward of the entrance of
Sandakan Harbour. Taganac Island is 15 miles N.E. from Bahalatolis
Island, and E. by N. 8 miles from Taganac is Baguan Island. Each of
these islands is less than a mile in diameter. Clotilde Roeh rises about 10 ft.
above the level of low water, and is about 100 yards long N.N.W. and
S.S.E., and about 20 yards broad. From the rock Baguan Island bears
S.E. by S., southerly, 9 J miles, and Taganac Island S. by W. ^ W. 9 miles ;
these bearings place it in lat. 6° 9' 50" N., long. 118° 25' E. Laurel Rotk is
about double the height and size of Clotilde Rock. It lies N.E. by N. 4
miles from Baguan Island. At 11 miles westward of Clotilde Eock is
another rock, 3 miles N.E. of the Bukkungaan Islets.

CAGATAN DE SULU is a small group in the south-western part of the
Sulu Sea, bearing about 100 miles N. by W. from Cape Unsang, on Borneo,
and 75 miles East of Mallawalle Island, South of Banguey. It seems to
belong to no power, unless claimed by the Sulu Sultan, and was a resort for
pirates. There are several islets to the northward ; the northernmost,
Quinapusan, is 11 miles N. | W. from the chief island, and the southernmost,
Mutipns, 5 miles to the S.W., are two in number, one in form of a saddle,
with anchorage near them, and they are safe to approach.

The chief island, Cagayan, is large, 1,000 ft. high, and well clothed with
trees. It is of volcanic origin, and a portion of it appears as a complete crater,
having one or more very deep circular basins within the edge, but they are
quite barred from approach from the sea. Captain Sir Edward Belcher's
observatory was set up on a small islet, at the entrance of this most romantic
basin, lat. 6° 58' 5" N., long. 118° 24' 11" E., being nearly on the meridian of
the great island. Eeefs appear to extend fully a mile from the western
shore, with rocks dry at low water.

" Cay ay an is about 25 miles in circumference, nearly on every point sur-
rounded by a fringe reef of coral, in a very active and progressive state, and
which affords protection to canoes, and rafts made of bamboo, to travel from
one point to another in smooth lanes of water, enabling the natives to pursue
their fishing, on which they chiefly exist, without being subject to heavy
seas.

" The men fish, while the women do all laborious work, such as carrying
water, pounding rice, &c. We found them very friendly all round the
island, constantly coming on board, and accompanying us when on shore,

CAGAYAN DE SULU. 919

and very useful as guides (for a trifle) in cutting down trees and clearing
away bushes.

" There are safe anchorages around the island in both monsoons ; that in
the N.E. is safe and good on the S.W. side in from 8 to 10 fathoms; another
good anchorage on the S.W. side of Keenapousan in 10 fathoms; a third
about a mile South of the little islet at the entrance to the crater on the S.E.
side in 12 fathoms, but all coral bottom.

" The water on the East side of the island is the deepest, having 240
fathoms 1 mile ofi" the land, and strong tide rips around here often frighten
the mariner ; but they are about the deepest water.

"The S.E. side of the island is by far the most picturesque and interest-
ing, but not the best anchorage ; the land here slopes to the South, is richly
wooded, and many parts cleared, having plantations of bananas and sweet
potatoes ; but no dwellings were visible from the ship, nor did any natives
visit us, as they so readily did at the S.W. end on our first arrival.

" I do not know any island I have seen over the world more favourably
situated for trade, or more suitably adapted for cultivation. Rice, su^-ar
cocoa, coffee, maize, potatoes, and vegetables, would all grow if cultivated.
Cotton-tree and tobacco-leaf were already growing there. The soil is excel-
lent, rich, of trap formation, with sufficient sand to make it loose and friable.
Cattle of all sorts —horses, cows, sheep, pigs, and poultry — would fatten and
thrive here. Enterprising men, with some Chinese labourers, would soon
make it a valuable island, and not a disagreeable one, to live on." — Captain
Chimmo, R.N., 1871.

Keenapoussan, a small island, 811 ft. high, is the northernmost of the
Cagayan Sulu group. Anchorage will be found on the S.W. side of the
island, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, coral and sand, with Keenapoussan summit
N.E. ^ N., and Pomelikan summit S.S.E. ^ E. N.E. Batik, with only 4
fathoms on its shoalest part, lies N.E. by E. about 3^ miles from Keena-
poussan. N. W. Bank has a 4-fathom patch N. W. ^ W. 3^ miles from Kee-
napoussan, and runs in a N.W. and S.E. direction.

Between Bisu Bintoot and Bisu Bohan there is a safe channel, but Bieu
Bohan, Bohan, and Mandah are connected by a reef dry at low water. All
these islands, with the exception of Bintoot, are thickly wooded, Mandah
having a sharp peak 283 ft. high. Bintoot appears a vast block of dark
sandstone. There is a good channel between Pomelikan and Bintoot, but
the latter island should be kept aboard, as a reef runs off Pomelikan to the
southward and westward about 3 cables.

Tides. — At Cagayan Sulu, during the N.E. monsoon, it is high water, full
and change, at 6*" 10", springs rising 6 ft. ; the tides are, however, irregular
and uncertain, the tidal stream being scarcely perceptible.

Muleegee Islands lie 8 miles South from the West end of Cagayan Sulu.
They are two small islands, 410 and 232 ft. above the sea respectively, and

920 THE SULU SEA.

bearN.E. by N. and S.W. by S. from each other. The channel between
them should not be attempted. Mambahenauan, another small island, lies 20
miles S. by E. ^ E. from Muleegee Islands.

The Muleegee Patches consist of a number of coral banks with from 5 to 10
fathoms; the shoalest lies W. \ N. 26 miles from the great Muleegee Island.
A patch of 61 fathoms was sounded on in lat. 7° 3' 36" N., long. 1 1 T 56' 24" E.
The Pudsey Dawson Bangers are a series of coral patches, the western of
which, with 15 ft., bears E. ^ S. nearly 19 miles from the East extreme of
Mallawalle Island, in Banguey South Channel ; from this danger, on the
bearing of E. by N. ^ N. for about 13 miles, are several banks with from
2^ to 10 fathoms on them. These banks are principally coral and sand, with
deep water between ; as a general rule they are not steep-to, and thus, if the
lead be kept going, warning of their vicinity will be given. Dangerous
reefs also lie westward and southward of the Pudsey Dawson dangers, and
are only to be understood by studying the chart.

Viola Reef, having only 4 ft. at low water spring tides, and on which the
Spanish vessel Viola struck and remained several hours, is reported as lying
in lat. 7° 50' N., long. 117° 40' 50" E. Another rock of doubtful position is
marked at 5 miles N.N.W. of the Viola Eook.

St. Michael Islands consist of four islets; they lie about 40 miles to
the northward of Cagayan Sulu ; the largest, Bancawang, Is about three-
quarters of a mile long, and at 2 cables from the N.E. point is nearly
divided by the sea. The N.E. point rises to a peak, 123 ft. high. Banca-
wang is connected with a small coral islet, lying I J mile to the northward,
by a reef extending from the North and West sides, with sand cays and
large boulders on it. The islet is steep to the S.E.

Manuh Manukan, the larger of the two S.W. islets of the group, is thinly
covered with trees, the tops of which are 32 ft. above the sea, and lies about
W.S.W. 5 J miles from the N.E. point of Bancawang.

There is no safe anchorage around any of these islands ; in the progress
of the survey, H.M.S. Nassau anchored in 6 fathoms, South of Manuk Ma-
nukan, and had 70 fathoms over the stern.

Two and a quarter miles N.W. of Manuk Manukan is a coral reef of 2J-
fathoms, which is considered to be connected with Manuk Manukan by shoal
ground, and therefore to be avoided.

The West Bank is 4 miles to the westward of Manuk Manukan, and runs
about N.N.W. and S.S.E. 3f miles long. The least water found was 6^
fathoms, near the South end. The eastern extreme of the extensive S. W.
Bank lies S.W. ^ S. 4| miles from Manuk Manukan. H.M.S. Nassau an-
chored on this bank on several occasions in good holding ground. Red
bream and large cod-fish in great numbers were caught on most of the banks
when in depths exceeding 10 fathoms.

Java Reef, between St. Michael Isles and Bancoran, was discovered by

THE CAGAYANES ISLANDS. 921

Captain Kempton in 1869. He found a depth of 2 J fathoms least water,
surrounded by depths of 5 and 6 fathoms. From the bank, St. Michael's
Island bore S.W. by S. | S. ; Bancaran Island, N.E. i N. ; and Mount
Mantaleengahan, in Palawan, N.W.

Bancoran Island, the centre of which is in lat. 7° 57' N., long. 118° 40' E.,
is about 4J cables in extent, flat, and covered with trees, the tops of which
are 140 ft. above the sea.

Tub Bataha. — This dangerous line of reefs consists of small islets, sand
cays, and large boulders, all connected by sand ridges, and fringed with
steep-to coral reefs, running S.W. and N.E. for a distance of about 16 miles.

The N.E. islet, which is the highest, is 15 ft. above the sea, with verdure
in the centre, and lies in lat. 8° 53' 48" N., long. 120° 0' 45" E.

The S.W. islet is 10 ft. above the sea, with the trunk of a large embedded
tree on the N.E. side. Apparently a chainel exists through the reef about

5 miles North of the S.W. islet, but it was not examined. Both of these
islets were teeming with sea birds, numbers of them flying round the ship
before the reef was sighted.

To the eastward of Tub Bataha two rocks are marked, one in lat. 8°46'N.,
long. 119° 57' E.; and the other, Tetnerario Rock, lat. 8° 48' N., long. 120° 5^' E.

Jessie Beazley Eeeflies about 14 miles N.W. by "W. from the northern islet
of the Tub Bataha ; this position can only be considered approximate, as the
reef was alone seen from the mast-head of H.M.S. Nassau on passing the
Tub Bataha.

South Tub Bataha was supposed to exist in lat. 8° 4' N., long. 119° 50' E.
H.M.S. Nassau tried for soundings there, finding no bottom with 1 80 fathoms ;

6 miles W. by N. of this position, at noon, with good observations, bottom
was obtained in 1,878 fathoms, pale yellow sand. As the observations were
made on a clear day, and a good look-out kept from the mast-head, there is
no doubt this shoal has been misplaced on the charts.

Nicholson Rock is marked in lat. 8° 52' N., long. 119° 43' E., 12 miles
W. \ N. of the South end of Tub Bataha.

ClotiUe Breaker is in lat. 8° 1 1' N., long. 1 19° 16' E.

Rosalia Rock, discovered in March, 1868, is in lat. 8° 54' N., long. 119° 6' E.

The CAGAYANES ISLANDS were very imperfectly described and deli-
neated on the Spanish charts, until Sir Edward Belcher made a cursory
survey of them in March, 1846. Cagayau, the largest and southernmost of
the group, is about 5 miles long ; at its broadest part, which is towards the
southern end, it is 2 miles across ; the highest hill, 285 ft. above the level of
the sea, lies 68 miles West af Negros West point. The remaining islets of
this group are low, and covered with trees. A reef which curves to the
eastward, and is steep-to on all sides, extends 85 miles to the northward of
Buombong. The Observatory was fixed on a small rocky islet in the channel
I. A. 6 b

922 THE SULU SEA.

between the two largest islands, lat. 9° 35' 30" N., long. 121° 15' 30" ;R
The bays or creeks situated in the interior of the extensive sound formed by
the two great islands are very picturesque and retired, and have at their
entrance, or chord of the bay, a depth of not less than 3^ fathoms. If the
entrance to this sound from the northward should be found clear from dan-
ger, or even accessible by dint of pilotage, this group would form an im-
portant naval position, but not more than 12 ft. could be found by the
Samarang. The cottages of the inhabitants are scattered about in the little
nooks or bays, but are not neat or cleanly, although the people they saw
were clean limbed, light coloured, vigorous, and very respectful and courteous
in manner. Sir Edward was assured that bullocks, vegetables, and fowls,
could be procured, and inferred that whalers frequently visit the pueblo, a
pretty large village, with a whitewashed fort and a church. The islands are
surrounded by a reef, which extends nearly 9 miles to the northward.

Colusa Island, lying 10 miles W. by N. ^ N. from the South point of Ca-
gayan, is about 60 ft. high, covered with trees, and visible 8 miles o£F. There
is a deep channel between it and Cagayan. Ca/vilU and Sandy Islands, with
their outlying reefs, extend 8^ miles in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direc-
tion, with a deep channel 1^ mile wide between. As these islands are steep-
to on all sides, the mariner should be cautious when navigating in their
vicinity, the lead giving no warning.

Between the Cagayanes group and the South end of Panay there are
several shoals. The southernmost was announced in 1839, as the Nicholson
Banlc, 3 fathoms (perhaps less), 9 or 10 miles North of the larger Cagayan.
Another was announced by Captain Wedge, of the Sultana, in 1845, with
oiily 9 ft. least water, in lat. 9° 59' N., long. 121° 24' E. Another, an exten-
sive reef, on which the Golconda struck in 1837, and the Sell in 1839, reaches
to within 23 miles S. by W. of the South extremity of Panay. The charts
must afford all further information.

Piedra Blanca, or white rock, lies in lat. 10° 27' N., long. 121° 3' E., about
20 miles S. i E. from the S.W. point of the Gran Cuyo, but far to the west-
ward of the ordinary track of vessels.

Queen of the Seas Sank, an 8-fathom patch, was discovered by Captain
Smiley Eeid, in 1868. The bottom was distinctly seen, and the bank ap-
peared to be about IJ or 2 miles in diameter. From the bank, Carlandagan
Island bore N.W., and Quiminatin N.E. ^ N., which places the shoal in lat.
10° 26' N., 120° 29' E., or 15 miles eastward of the position now assigned
to it.

The CXJYOS ISLANDS, or Islas de los Amantes, is an extensive archipelago
between Panay and Palawan. The charts of them will give the only account
we have ; there is no good description. Gra7i Cuyo is the largest and one
of the southernmost. Its centre is in lat. 10° 52' N., long. 121° 2' E. It is
well cultivated with rice in some parts ; the village is on the N.W. side.

THE CUYOS ISLANDS. 923

Many of the other islands are high and rocky ; the easternmost is iu hit.
10° 58i' N., long. 121° 16' E., 9 miles N.E. of Gran Cuyo. Qumuluhan, the
northernmost, is in lat. 11° 27' N., long. 120° 51' E., and is a high island,
with others near it, to the southward.

There are safe channels among the various islands, with depths varying
from 30 to .60 fathoms, but a large ship should not get entangled among
them, as many of the reefs extend a long way around them, and there are
detached coral patches either not known or not properly placed. Of the
sunken dangers known there is a \^-fathom patch, S.W. by W. I W., 21
miles from the peak of Cuyo Island, and S.E. 10^ miles from Paya, a small
island, the south-westernmost of the group. Canipo Island is N.N.W. 10
miles from Cuyo, and the space between is nearly filled up by a shallow
bank. A sunken rock is placed in lat. IP N., 120° 38' E., W.N.W. 25 miles
from Cuyo Island. Agatuya is an island 3 miles long North and South. A
sunken rock lies N.W. 3 miles from its North extremity, and S.W. the same
distance irom Lit, another small, high island. A \- fathom patch was dis-
covered by Captain Mackenzie, of the ship Chinaman^ in 1871, in latitude
ir 17' N., 121° 6' E., 10 miles E.N.E. of Dit.

The Sombrero Rock, midway between the S.W. end of Panay and the
Cuyos Islands, is not larger than a long boat, and can only be seen when
witliin 8 or 9 miles; it generally shows black. Soundings appear to extend
from the Sombrero Eock to the Cuyos It is in lat. 10° 43' N., distant 20
miles from Panay, and can only be made out at the distance of 8 or 10 miles.
It bears from Point Naso N.W. 29 miles, from the centre of Gran Cuyo
E. by S. \ S., and from Paguayan, the easternmost of the Cuyo Islands, S.E.
distant 24 miles.

Pontui Bank is a small dry patch, in lat. IT 20' N., long. 121° 41' E.,
S.W. by W. 16 miles from Balbatan Island. A 7-fathom coral patch lies 4
miles N.N.W. from it; and Sidtan Bank, with 5^ fathoms water over it, Hes
13 miles West of the 7-fathom patch.

The Panagatan Shoal lies to the S.W. of Semirara. It is also called the
Camden Reef, and is a coral reef, 4 miles in extent East and West, and 4
miles broad. There are three eoral islands on it, all covered with trees, that
to the westward being the highest, only 12 ft. above high water. No fresh
water found ; but they are visited by fishermen. The S.E. point of the
North island is in lat. 11° 50' 40" N., long, about 121° 16' E. Its native
name is derived from the enormous shells of the tridacna or Chama gigas
which abound on it.

Falmouth Bank, of 11 and 12 fathoms, lies 15 miles West of Panagatan
Shoal. Leonidas Bank, of 5^ fathoms, lies 15 miles N.N.W. of Falmouth
Bank, and 12 miles S.W. of Ambolon Island. Three shoal patches lie east-
ward of the Calamion Islands, one of 5^ fathoms 7 miles E.S.E. from the
East end of Bulalacao. Magellancs Bank, of 5^ fathoms, 8 miles East of

924 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

Delian, in lat. 11° 51' N., long. 120^ 29' E., and a 4j-fathom patch S.S.E.
10 miles from Mao^ellanes Bank, and 14 miles eastward of the 5i-fathom
patch just mentioned.

MINDORO is 76 miles from North to South, and its northern coast is
about the same length. Its western shore has been described (p.p. 586 — 592)
as forming a portion of the limit of the China Sea. It is an island of great
natural fertility, its climate is very hot, and the rains almost incessant.
Cape Calavite, its N.W. extremity, is formed by the slopes of a lofty moun-
tain, and from this the North coast trends nearly eastward, and at 25 miles
from Cape Calavite is the Ahra de Ilo, where is good anchorage, and between
them are the ruins of a remarkable church. They stand on a narrow plain
called Punta de San Tomaa, now deserted, but their existence shows that
the island must have been once populous before the incursions of the pirates
about the middle of last century. This coast of the island is exceedingly
unhealthy, and is uninhabited. It is believed that to sleep a single night on
it is certain to produce a putrid or tertian fever. At 12 miles eastward of
the Abra de Ho is the Puerto Galera, only fit for boats., and thus named be-
cause it was a refuge for the galleys in pursuit of the pirates. Inland of this
is the loftiest mountain of Mindoro. The coast to the eastward is deserted
and inaccessible, and only visited occasionally by the wild inhabitants to take
the honey which is abundant among its rocky cliffs. Calapan, the chief place
of the island, is 14 miles E. by S. of the Puerto Galera, and is on a point
from which an extensive reef projects. It is a miserable place, with a small
fort. Point Dumali, its N.E. point, is bold and steep-to, and when coming
from the eastward may be recognised by a remarkable white patch on the
face of it about 4U0 ft. high.

Mindoro is at present very unimportant. The remnant of its once civilized
population now live in the interior, a miserable and degraded remnant, and
the alleged unhealthiness of its shores prevents immigration to restore its
former fertility.

SIBUYAN is 1 3 miles in diameter ; it is only inhabited by Indians, nearly
uncivilized, and therefore it is quite unimportant. On its N.E. side is a reef
of sand and rocks, which uncovers at low water, 5 or 6 miles in extent. It
runs parallel with the coast, leaving a channel half a mile wide within it,
having from 6 to 10 fathoms water, and which perhaps affords some shelter.

The channel between Sibuyan and Masbate, with its shoals, has been
before noticed (page 905).

ROMBLON is 8 miles West from the western point of Sibuyan. It is 10
miles long, and at its N.E. end is an excellent small harbour, and a well
kept village. There is a fort here built by a priest to resist the piratical
Muros, which he did so efifectually as to gain the name of Capitan Terror.

TABLAS— LUZON. 925

There sire four small fixed lights shown at Ronjblon, but no account is jriven
of their use or application. They are on the Sahang, Aghatan, Binagon and
Rosas Poi)its beacons.

TABLAS, next "West of Eombh'n, is 33 miles long, but is narrow. We
have no account of its coasts. It has three small villages, and a fort for
protection against the Moro pirates.

Marinduque is 25 miles long and 11 broad. It is lofty, and Mount Jfar-
langas is of < onsiderable elevation, rising over its southern cape. The island
is fertile, rice the chief product ; the principnl outlet of which is at Jfalauigi,
an open road on its southern coast. On the N.E. side is a town and harbour,
called Sta. Cruz de Napo, spacious and sheltered, and on the N.W. side is
that of Sanf Andres, a shoal lying in front of it.

Port St. Andrews, in the N.W. part of the island, has a very narrow en-
trance, with some dangers extending from the shore on the northern side.
Within is a deep well sheltered basin. There is no town here, but at 4^
miles to the southward is Buac, with 1,100 inhabitants. Gazan is nearly 20
miles further down the coast.

Of the islands to the northward of Tablas, Bos Hermanas are flat and about
150 ft. high, Maestro de Campo being high and steep-to. Banton and
Sirnara Islands are readily recognized from the northward of Maestro de
Campo ; the former is high, peaked, and rugged, and apparently unculti-
vated, while the latter is moderately elevated, flat-topped, and well culti-
vated, with a village, church, and fort on its South side.

LUZON, LUCON, or, as it is sometimes corrupted, " Luconia," is by much
the largest and most important of Las Islas Filipinas. It is of an exceed-
ingly irregular figure, participating in this character with the other volcanic
islands of the archipelago, such as Mindanao, Halmaheira, and Celebes, the
volcanic agency being apparently continuous throughout all these, and ex-
tending northward towards Japan and Kamtchatka. Measured along its
greatest length it is 550 miles in extent, but the great mass of the island is
in the northern peninsula, which is 135 miles broad in some parts. Its form
has been compared to the bent arm " brazo doblado," and its aggregate
area is nearly equal to double that of Ireland.

It is divided by the Spaniards into nineteen provinces, of which that of
Tondo, which contains the capital, Manila, is by far the most important; the
others need not be enumerated. The whole commerce of the island and
most of the civilization and European residents are centred in its capital.

From its great extent in latitude, between latitudes 12° 30' and 18° 43' N.,
it lies in the main strength of the monsoons, which exert their whole force
on either coast alternately. Throughout its length ranges of volcanic moun-
tains extend, commencing in the South with the active volcano of Balusan,
on the North side of the Strait of San Bernardino, and cuntinuing through

926 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS,

many lofty peaks along the southern peninsulas, exhibiting more or less the
results of former or recent activity. On the south-western side of the
northern peninsula and on the opposite coast are separate ranges, and in the
northern portion are those of the Sierra Madre or El Gran Cordillera, which
runs generally parallel with the eastern coast, terminating in the North at
Cape Engaiio. On the western side, and in a similar direction, are the
Cordillera Central and del Norte, which are generally known as the Mantes
Caralallos.

These mountain chains, although of no great elevation, probably nowhere
6,000 or 7,000 ft., have an important influence on the climate of the eastern
or western coasts, in a similar way that the Ghauts, in about the same lati-
tudes, have on the meterology of the Indian peninsula. There are nume-
rous volcanoes along this chain, of which those to the S.E., such as May,on,
above Albay, Taal in the centre of a lake, Bonolano, &c., are the best known.
Earthquakes are consequently frequent, and have been in some cases very
destructive.

The seasons are divided into the wet and the dry. In the western portion
the rains last from the beginning of June until the middle of September,
while at this season there is fine weather in the eastern and northern parts
of Luzon. This monsoon is not so regular on the western coast as farther at
sea, and in other portions of its course, being much interfered with by the
various islands and mountains. In October the westerly monsoon gives place
to the northerly winds, which then bring similar rains, derived from the
evaporation in passing over the Pacific, on to the eastern coast. When these
rains set in the fall is so abundant, that the whole country becomes inun-
dated and generally impassable, and the flat plains are then little better
than vast lagoons. A surprising fertility is the consequence of this abun-
dance of moisture, combined with the tropical heats which are constant
throughout the year. From the wetness of the climate for so large a por-
tion of the year roads and bridges are deficient, and a great portion of the
commerce is carried on coastwise, a traffic which is much aided by the pecu-
liarly indented coast line of its more densely peopled parts. The heat is
very great, but the humidity qualifies this. The great heats commence
about the middle of March, when the winds from East and S.E. set in. and
which last about two months. At the changes of the seasons hurricanes and
typhoons are frequent and very violent.

Of the North and eastern coasts we know very little ; our hydrographical
knowledge of it is almost entire ignorance. This portion of the island is
scarcely subject to Spain, has no trade or productions, and being moreover
a lee shore for so large a portion of the year, it is avoided by ships at all
times, on account of this and of the strong currents which prevail close
to them.

The SOUTH COAST of LUZON is imperfectly known. Caje Santiago, its

THE SOUTH COAST OF LUZON. 927

western extremity, in lat. 13° 46' N., long. 120° 40' 20" E., is low, with reefs
extending a quarter of a mile from it, and Minerva Hock, 4 miles S.E. of it.
Verde Island, 9 miles to the S.E. of the East end of Maricaban, is 4 miles
long N.W. and S.E., and 1,500 ft. high. * By taking care not to shut in its
North point by Maricaban, the Minerva Rock will be cleared by at least 3
miles. Between Cape Santiago and the western end of Maricaban Island,
which is surmounted by rocks, 11 miles S«E. by E. from it, is the entrance
to Balagan Bay, the S.W. part of which is called Fagapas Bay. In these bays
there is good anchorage. Maricaban Island is 7 miles long, high, and covered
with trees. On its eastern end there is a mountain, which is remarkable for
being on land which is higher than any part of the island. At the western
end there is another, not so high, terminating in a peak, and is very distinct
•from the neighbouring heights of Point Santiago. Vessels may anchor on a
sandy bottom oif all the beaches on the northern and southern sides of this
island ; but it is necessary to do so close to them, for they are very bold.
To the northward of the western end of the island there is a small islet ex-
tending North and South surrounded by rocks. Eocks and islets extend to
2 miles off the East end of Maricaban. The channel northward of Verde
Island is generally preferred, as a rock is said to exist about 1 J mile S.E. ^ E.
from the South point of Verde Island, and a reef running 5 cables North of
the Bacos Islands.

The entrance to Batangas Bay is between the East end of Maricaban
Island and Matoco Point, high and covered with trees, 5 miles to the east-
ward. The best anchorage is in its N.E. part, near the town of Batangas or
Bauang. The River Rosario is 10 miles eastward of Matoco Point, the coast
between being sandy. Point Malahrigo, 4 miles S.E. by E. from Eosario, is
covered with trees. Northward of it is some high ground, 3,500 feet hi^h,
called the Sierras of Rosario, which forms a useful landmark in approaching
from the eastward. The next high ground to that at Point Malabrigo is at
Sigayan promontory, 10 miles N.E. by E. of it. There is anchorage near the
coast between these places The eastern extreme of Sigayan promontory is
called Cape Bantigui. One and a half mile N.W. from it is a small bay with
some wooded islets in it. Paghilao Island lies 11 J miles N.E. from Point
Bantigui. Its irregular shape forms a bay on its southern coast, and the
island itself, nearly filling up the bay in which it lies, forms two harbours,
Pagbilao to the westward and Lagummanoc to the eastward. The first of
these is much embarrassed by shoals, and requires a pilot. Vessel not draw-
ing above 24 ft. can enter Lagummenoc, but great caution is necessary in
doing so, for the reefs which extend from its two points very much reduce
the breadth of the entrance.

Erom the S.E. point of Pagbilao Island, in lat. 13° 53' N., long. 121° 48'
E., for 28 miles to the south-eastward to Point Tuguian, the coast should not
be approached within a distance of 2 or 3 miles, as numerous sunken rucks

928 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

lie off it. Between Point Tuguian and Point Pinamuntangan, 26^ miles to
the south-eastward, a shallow bay is formed. In the southern part of this
bay, 5 miles N. by W. from the last named point, is a patch of rocks 2 miles
in extent and 3 miles off shore. ' Mulanay, a mall bay, with the town of
Yendo on its shores, is in lat. 13° 30' N., long. 122° 25' E. This bay is backed
by high ground, and to the southward of it the peninsula is high, terminating
in Mount Bondog, 1,250 ft. high, 24 miles to the southward.

Bondog Head lies 2 miles 8.S.E. from Mount Bondog, and from it the coast
trends about N.E. for 8 miles to Point Arena, and has several sandy bays
with anchorage. A shoal, 3 miles N.E. from Bondog Head and a mile off
the shore, should be avoided. Somhocagon Bay is 4 miles N.N.W. from Point
Arena, and several sunken rocks lie near the intervening coast. In this bay
country boats resort for anchorage, but there is a large rock in the midst of
it, leaving a channel between it and the shore. In the N.W. part of the
bay is the town of the same name. The North point of the bay has a reef
extending from it to the S.E. in a semicircular form, under which there is
good sheltered anchorage in 4 fathoms, fine sand.

Alihijahan Island, on the western side of the Gulf of Eagay, and 6 miles
North of Arena Point, is 3 miles long North and South, and surrounded by
rocks. There is a channel IJ mile wide between the rocks off its western
side, and those extending a mile from the main. N.N.W, 5 miles from the
North end of this island, is the Palad Bank, 3 miles off shore. The entrance
of Pusgo Harbour lies N.W. 7 miles from Palad Bank, and has Point Pusgo
on its eastern side, a mile southward from which is a If -fathom patch, the
best entrance to the harbour being on the western side of this patch,

Guinayan is a town at the head of the Gulf of Kagay, on its western side, 25
miles above Point Pusgo. In approaching this place there are two dangers
to be avoided, one lying S.E. by E. 8 miles from it, and a IJ-fathom patch
3^ miles E. ^ S. from it. Ragay is on the eastern shore of the gulf, E.S.E.
from Guinayan. The S.E. entrance point of the Gulf of Eagay may be con-
sidered as Tamba Point, which lies S.E. from the North end of Burias
Island. Between Tamba Point and St. Bernardino Strait are several har-
bours worthy of mention. Visita and Ilarigotidon are towns near the
coast, respectively in lat 13° 1' 30" N., and 13° 0' 30" N. Bonson lies 4 m.iles
above the mouth of a small river, off which is shallow water. At 5^ miles
S.E. of Donson Eiver is the entrance of Fort Putiao, in lat. 12° 53' N., long.
123° 40' E. The channel into Port Putiao is in the middle of the mouth
leaving the islet off the point on the left hand. But it is necessary to enter
lead in hand and with small sail to keep the channel, for there are rocky
shoals on both sides which dry at low water. In the mouth there are 25 to
10 fathoms, mud.

The port of Parlatuan, 2 miles to the eastward, has scarcely 3 fathoms
mid-channel, although it has 5 and 6 fathoms inside. To get into it a vessel

THE EASTERN COASTS OF LUZON. 929

must be towed and sound to keep the channel and avoid the rocks which
appear at low water.

Sosogon Bay, 12 miles deep, is the best port to be found hereabouts, and
on its shores are several towns, where provisions may be obtained. Bagatao
Island, 2 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E., lies across its entrance, and the
best passage in is between its western end (lat. 1 2° 52' N., long. 123°46'30"E.),
and Malumahuan, a small island, li mile to the westward. There is an-
chorage on a sand -bank South of the West end of Bagatao Island, in 12 or
14 fathoms. When inside the port a vessel may anchor where suitable. If
large she must not approach the vicinity of Sorsogon, for from the third part
of the extent the depth decreases 20 fathoms. But there is the satisfaction
of knowing that the whole of the ground is mud, and that in the event of
touching it, a vessel cannot do herself much harm. Water is got from the
East side of the outer harbour. It was in this bay that at one period the
great galleons which went to Acapulco were built, and here also were esta-
blished roperies for the making of cordage from the Manilla hemp, the pro-
duce of a species of banana.

Bulan is a town 1 3 miles southward of Bagatao Island. The coast be-
tween has anchorage off it ; but, at 1\ miles northward of Bulan, a shoal
bank of sand stretches some distance off the coast. At the town of Bulan
(formerly Gate) is a river, the bar of which has but 5 ft. on it at low water.
Within this, however, it is navigable with but little change of depth. The
town is seated on the right bank at a short distance inside. On the bare
sandy point which extends out a tolerable distance is a fort.

Butag Bay, 3 miles to the south-eastward of Bulati, is 1|^ mile wide be-
tween Points Angas and Barugo, off each of which are some rocks. A town
lies at the head of the bay. The shore of the Day is mountainous in some
parts towards the shore and well wooded, and the depth of the water in it
admits of vessels of all kinds. Tagiran Point, formed of a hill with a flat
top, is 7 J miles S.E. by S. of Butag, and there are several bays where an-
chorage may be obtained, lying between. This point is in lat. 12° 32' N.,
long. 123° 58' 30" E., and several bays with anchorage in them, lie to the
eastward of it. Calantes Bank is a small coral rock, 5| miles E.S.E. from
Tagiran Point. It is mentioned on page 904. The small islands of Calinfan,
Juac, and Tielin, off the S.E. end of Luzon, have many rocks near their
shores, but the narrow strait which separates them from the coast of Luzon
has plenty of depth for any vessel.

The EASTERN COASTS of LUZON,* washed by the Pacifle, are very

• "Lbgaspi, opened to foreign commerce in 1873, is situated at the S.E. end of the
Island of Luzon. It is an open roadstead much exposed to the violence of the N.E. mon-
I. A 6c

930 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

irregular, and in their southern portion very deeply indented by large bays
and inlets. The Strait of San Bernardino, which separates it from Samar,
and is the great inlet from the Pacific to the Bisayas Islands, has been
described on page 903.

The Volcano of Bulusan, lat. 12° 47' N., stands as a sentinel on the northern
side of this Embocadero or strait, and being in constant activity, its flames
have been a good mark by night for approaching it.

Magnoc Bay has its entrance at 2 miles westward of Tielin Island (page
■929). At the southern point of Tielin Island a shoal extends out S.E., and
as its neighbouring isle, Juac, has another extending in the contrary direc-
tion, they leave but a small channel between them, which is used by the
trading craft of the country. Magnoe Bay is not large, but may afford an-
chorage to any vessel, whether the weather may be fine or blowing between
North and S.S.W. ; but to all other winds she would be exposed and subject
to a considerable swell. The town is very small and poor. To the north-
ward it has a river, and may afford water and a few provisions. The southern
point of entrance of Magnoe Bay has shoal water extending off it for more
than half a mile to the northward. Having passed Point Padan, which is
next to the E.N.E. from the North point of the Bay of Magnoe, there is
neither bay nor place for anchorage as far as that of Albay. The whole
coast is composed of ravines with rocky terminations or sandy beaches, and
although off these the ground may be clean, at some distance there is a rocky
ridge which extends from Point Padan as far as the shoals of Montufar,
leaving only some few breaks or cuts which the pilots, who know them, pass
through in their small craft for Bulusan, lat. 12° 42' N. ; Guhat, 12° 56^' N. ;
Bagacay, 1 3° N. ; or for any part of the coast, inside the ridge.

The Gulf of Alhay is 22 miles deep in an East and West direction, and lies
between the three islands of Eapurrapu, Batan and Cacraray, on its North,
and the xjoast of Luzon on its South side. Its entrance is between Ungay
Point, the S.E. point of Eapurrapu, lat. 13° 11' N., long. 124° Qi' E., and
Montugan Point, 5 miles South from it. The latter point has sunken rocks
off it. The narrow channels between the islands forming the North side of
the harbour are intricate and dangerous, and some sunken rocks also lie off
the South side of the islands. The South shore of Albay Gulf forms two
large bays, in the eastern of which are the villages of Nabug, Sugob, and
Bacon; and in the western, called Poliqui Bay, are Manito and Caguayan,
on its eastern shore, and Poliqui on its western. Sunken rocks lie all round

fioon. There being also deep water close to the shore, vessels at anchor run great risk of
dragging during the gales which often prevail on thiit part of the coast. Coral reefs are
also said to exist in the Bay of Legaspi, though not entered on the chart." — Mr. Coneul
Rickets, 1873.

There is no mention made of this place on the charts.

LUZON— CATANDUANES ISLAND. 931

PoHqui Bay, at 1 or 2 miles off shore. Allay Totcn, in lat. 13' 9' N., long.
123° 43' E., lies 2 miles inland from the head of the bay. A village lies on
the coast East of it, at the mouth of a river. N. by E. 5 miles from this
village is that of Lime, with rocks on the shore. Two detached rocks also
lie 3 miles S.E. of the mouth of the river in which Livoc is situated. Port
Sula, at the S."W. end of Cacraray Island, lies 5 miles East of Livoc.

Tobaco Gulf, next North of Albay Gulf, has its chief town, named TobacOf
just within its western entrance point, which is in lat. 13° 22' N., long.
123° 43' E. This gulf is 7 miles broad East and West. The island of San
Miguel shelters it from the northward, and round the western end of this
island is the entrance to the gulf, a mile broad. The North side of this
island is bordered by dangers to a mile off, and the channel eastward of it^
between it and Cacraray, is unsafe. The West end. of San Miguel should
not be approached when bearing South of S.S.E. Besides Tobaco, the
villages of Malilipuy, Bagacay, and Pilis, are built on the shores of Tobaco
Gulf. On the South side of Canamuan Peninsula, 17 miles to the northward,
is Lagonotj Gulf, with several villages on its shores.

The Volcana of Allay, in perpetual agitation, lies 5 miles W.N.W. from
Livoc, and is constantly threatening the neighbourhood, "vhich is fertile and
well cultivated. The roads too are better here than in other parts.

CATANDUANES ISLAND is 34 miles long by 15 to 18 broad. It is lofty
and fertile. The heat of the climate is tempered by the sea breezes. Pice,
cotton, abaca, and maize are produced. The abundant forests of its interior
yield good timber for ship-building. There are several islands in the strait
named Maqueda Canal, which is 10 to 20 miles broad, separating it from
Punta Rungus on Luzon, above which rise the lofty mountains of Canamuan.

lot Point, the North point of Catanduanes Island, is in lat. 14° 8' N., long.
124° 13^' E. Matulin Idand lies 5 miles E.N.E. of it, and is surrounded to
of 1 or 2 miles by sunken rocks. Horadada Rocks, above water, He 6 or 7
miles N. by W. from lot Point, and Abriop Bank 2 or 3 miles N.W. from
Horadada Rocks.

Pa7iay, 4 miles long N.E. and S.W., lies off the N.E. coast of Catandu-
anes, in lat. 14° 4' N. Along its western side, which is bordered by rocks,
is the entrance to a small bay, in which are situated the villages of Baga-
manoe, Payo, and Biga. On the East coast of Catanduanes is Tamhongon, in
lat- 13° 59' N., and Port Baras in lat. 13° 39' N. Sunken rocks lie off the
coast at Pandaran Point, in lat. 13° 51' N., at Jimoto Bay in lat. 13° 46' N.,
and at Biniirun Point in lat. 12° 41' N.

Nagumhuaya is the S.E. point of Catanduanes Island. It is in lat. 13° 32'
N., long. 124° 31' E. Between this and another point 10 miles to the west-
ward is a deep bay, into the eastern part of which a large river flows, having
Cabugao and Balo villages at its mouth. On the S.W. coast of Catanduanes
is anchorage off the village of Calolbong. On its westera coast is no place

932 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

of importance. Palumbanes Island lies 5 miles West of its N.W. point,
where is a small bay named Carao.

Puerto de Sisiran is on the North shore of Canamuan peninsula, the
entrance being 32 miles W. by S., of the North point of Catanduanes.
It is safe, and sheltered by a group of islands, the entrance to it being in lat.
14° N., long. 123° 41' E. The channel leads South, and when round the
East point of the island haul West, and anchor to the N.E. of the village of
Basi on the Luzon shore. At 24 miles to the S.W. is the peaked mountain
Ysaroc and Psarroc, near the head of the bay of San Miguel.

In approaching this bay care should be taken to avoid some sunken rocks,
which lie at 7 miles north-eastward of its eastern entrance point. They ex-
tend for 1^ mile N.W. of a small island. To the southward of them is
Tagun Bay, West of Lahuy Island.

Botavanan Island, in lat. 14° 10' N., long. 123° 20', lies 23 miles N.W. by W.
from the entrance of Sisiran ; the coast between is broken up into three deep
bays. At 5 miles S.W. by W. from Botavanan Island is Pinitan Point,
with sunken rocks extending a mile N.W. from it. Between this point and
Siruma Island, 5 miles to the S.W., is the entrance of /Struma Bay, at the
head of which is a village of the same name.

San Miguel Bay. — The entrance of this bay is 5 miles wide between Siruma
Island just mentioned and the Canimo Islands to the westward. At the
head of the bay is Cabusao, at the mouth of a river which has formed a bank
extending for 5 miles to the N.N.E. C'olasi, on the western shores of the
bay, lies S.W. from Siruma Island. This bay is open to the northward, but
some sheltered spots may perhaps be found on its eastern side. The western
shores of the bay are low and unhealthy.

The Canimo Islands form the N.W. side of the entrance to St. Miguel Bay.
The channel between them and the shore is closed by reefs. West of the
largest and northern island of this group is the mouth of the Daet Eiver, in
lat. 14° 5' N., long. 122° 59' E. Gold is reported to be found in the streams
hereabout, and a town to exist. Mount Labot, 5,092 ft. high, lies S.W. 15
miles from Canimo Island.

Off this part of the coast an extensive bank is reported to exist ; its S.E.
end is in lat. 14° 38' N., long. 123° 38' E., thence, with a width of from 5 to
7 miles, it extends for 20 miles to the N.W.

Matandumaten Island is small, and lies 12 miles northward of the entrance
to St. Miguel Bay. To the N.W. of this is the Calagnas Group, with sunken
rocks extending 3 miles from their S.E. side. Cacbalisay Island is the eastern
of the group, and 5 miles S.E. from its eastern end is a small islet with a
sunken rock off its South side.

Qwinamanocan Island, 7 n:iles N.W. of Canimo Island, lies within a mile of
the shore, and 22 miles north-westward of this is a small group with a bank
off their northern side called the Tonao Isles. They lie 8 miles West of

LUZON— THE POLILLO ISLAND. 933

Maculabo, the western of the Calagnas Isles. Mount Bagacay is in lat. 14°
Hi' N., long. 122° 48' E., and on the coast 8 miles N.N.W. from it is Para-
cale village. Mamhulao is at the head of a bay, the entrance to which faces
the N.W., and lies 7 miles westward of Paracale. The River Capalonga
enters the sea in long. 122' 22' E., 16 miles westward of the Tongao Isles.
To the westward of the mouth of this river is Jaulo Island. Dagdaf Point,
with a rock off it, lies 9 miles W.S.W. Jaulo Island, and between them lies
Sogod Bay. Paranjo Point is 4 miles S.W. from Dagdap Point, and about
3 miles West of it is Palupari Island, the intervening space being dangerous.
At 4 miles S.S.W. of Paranjo Point is Silanja Point, the space between
being occupied by a bay, at the head of which is the town of Calagua.
Silanga Point is separated by a channel 2 miles wide from the East end of
Alahat Island, which, with a width of about 4 miles, thence extends for 15
miles in a N.W. direction, sheltering Lamon Bay to the southward. The
West end of Alabat Island is surrounded to a distance of a mile by sunken
rocks. Panguiren is on the South side of the West end of Alabat Island,
and at 8 miles West of it on the main is the town of Mauban. Majajaquin and
Talolen are villages in the S.E. head of Lamon Bay, and Gamaca is 7 miles
West from them. Cahalete Island, 5 miles long N. by W. and S. by E., is
separated by a strait 3 miles wide from the N.W. end of Alabat Islets
lie a mile off the North end, and 1^ mile off the N.W. end of Alabat.

Balesin Island, 1^ mile in diameter, lies N.W. If miles from Dagdap Point,
and at 13 miles N.E. of it is the West end of Jomalig Island, which thence
extends for 12 miles to the E.S.E. Two small islands lie East 2 miles, and
S.E. 3 miles from its eastern end.

The Polillo Islands, consisting of one large island 30 miles northward of
Alabat, with some others on its East coast, are very little known. The
centre of the large island is occupied by an extensive mountain, named Ma-
lolo. It is probable that there is shelter during the N.E. monsoon close
under the lee shore of Polillo, perhaps in a small bay where the principal
village lies S.W. of Mount Malolo. To visit this bay Mount Malolo should
be kept bearing South of E. by N. on approaching the coast, as many rocks
lie within 4 miles of the shore to the southward, and leave the channel inside
them a mile wide and 4 miles long near the shore.

On the Luzon shore, on the parallel of the South point of Polillo, is the
small harbour of Lampon, having 15 ft. water in the entrance, with 3 or 4
fathoms inside. The strait separating Polillo from the main island has
poundings, although deep water. The N.W. coast of Polillo is bordered by
sunken rocks, as is also the coast of the mainland to the westward. The Gulf
ofBingala is in lat. 15° N., long. 121° 32' E., 17 miles W.S.W. of Panampa-
tam Point, the N.W. point of Polillo. Dumages River lies 4 miles southward
of the Gulf of Dingala.

The North-east Coast of Luzon is but very little known, and never visited.

934 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

The Nueva Provincia, although nominally under Spanish sway, is really
occupied by independent tribes, who have no commercial relations with the
world, and scarcely a village is marked on the official maps on the 230 miles
of coast intervening between the above and the N.E. point. Beaten inces-
santly by the whole fetch of the Pacific surf, at best it must be an iron-
bound eoast, and is so indicated, and probably with very strong currents
drifting past it. This must be especially the case in the N.E. monsoon,
which brings the rainy reason here, and when the remark before made is re-
membered, that the mountain ranges intercepting the S. W. monsoon, bring
the rain on to the opposite coast, although in a less continuous manner, it
will be inferred that they reach the eastern shore very much mitigated in
their force, and are probably felt as light and baffling winds, or as more
violent squalls. In the absence of any recorded experience, it may be the
safest course to entirely avoid it as far as possible.

Baler Bay^ in lat. 15° 49' N., has a village of the same name in its inner
angle, and may afiPord shelter from southerly winds. The 8eno de Casigiiran
is a large bay open to the S.E. and from its eastern point, Cape San Ildefonso,
in lat. 16° 1' N. a range of cliffs extends for 36 miles N.E. by N. to the
entrance of the Puerto de Tumango, in the northern bend ' of which is the
viUage oi Dauilican, in lat. 16° 50', which may have shelter from the north-
eastward. From hence to Cape Engano there is nothing to remark, more
than what the charts explain. Mount Moises, 4,085 ft. high, lies 7 miles
W.N.W. of Paranan Bay, and in lat. 17° 13' N. Mount Cresta lies 10 miles
West of Bivilican Bay, and in lat. 17° 21' N. ; Mount dos Cuernos-, in lat. 17"
30' N., is 4,008 ft. high, and near the coast ; Mount Cetaceo, in lat. 17° 44'
N., is within 5 miles of the coast ; Mount Cagua, a volcanic peak, is in lat.
18° 13' N., and between it and Cape Engano are two other elevations of
3,451 and 2,086 ft. respectively.

CAFE ENGANO is the N. t^. point of Luzon ; its name " deceit" may be
the reason why the term should also be applied to the N.E. point of Palabi
Island.

PALAUI ISLAND, N.E. point, is 7 miles to W.N.W. of the N.E. point
of Luzon, and is sometimes called Cape Engano ; it is moderately elevated.
A coral reef, with high breakers and several rocks above water, extends
E.N.E. about 3 miles from the point of the cape ; and patches of shoal water
project a mile beyond it. This reef fronts the eastern side of the island at
the same distance, extending southward about 4 miles, until abreast a round
hill forming its South point, and joins the N.E. end of Luzon. Close to the
northward of the cape are two islets, the outermost of which, called Lava, is
a square, steep mass of lava, about half a mile in extent, and may be seen
at the distance of about 27 miles.

The channel between Cape Engano and Camiguin Island to the N.N.W.

LUZON— POET SAN YINCENTE. 935

is about 20 miles wide, and clear of danger. As the currents set strong to
the northward in the S.W. monaoon, it will be prudent for vessels proceeding
to the eastward to keep on the South side of the channel.

Port San Vincente is formed by a small island of the same name, lying
between the N.E. end of Luzon and the adjacent island of Palaui. There is
room in this port for three or four ships, sheltered from all winds ; but the
entrant© is narrow and intricate, being formed between shoals on each side,
which project from the S.W. part of Palaui, and from Vincente Island ; a
vessel is therefore obliged to warp in. There is good anchorage in 5 fathoms
opposite the mouth of the port, and sheltered from all winds but those be-
tween West and S.W.

The N.E. extremity of Luzon forms a peninsula, which projects about 15
miles bej'ond the line of the North coast, so that between Cape Engaiio and
Pata Point is a deep bay with a chain of mountains inland, and a consider-
able space of moderately elevated, or rather low land fronting the sea, in-
terspersed with villages and intersected by rivers. There is a continued
beach along this coast with regular soundings, generally 30 or 40 fathoms,
about 1| or 2 miles off on the western part, and similar depths extend. 3 and
4 miles off shore when farther eastward.

There is a missionary station on the coast S.W. 17 miles from the S.W.
end of Palaui Island, and W.N.W. from the volcanic Mount Cagua. At 8
miles westward of this station is the village of Bugay, N.W. 13 miles from
which is the mouth of the Rio Grande de Cagayan.

The Rio Grande of Cagayan rises in the eastern range of mountains called
the Sierra Madre, and, after a course of some 120 miles, enters the China
Sea at Aparri, 13^ miles eastward of the mouth of the Abulag. There
being but 14 or 15 feet of water at flood tide on the bar of this river, large
ships anchor outside. The rapidity of the current and the sudden floods
render the navigation of the Eio Grande at times exceedingly dangerous.
It may nevertheless be termed the highway of the tobacco-producing pro-
vince of Cagayan. Small steamers run to Guagua, Bulacan, and Manila.
There is good anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms, about 2 miles N.N.E. from
the mouth of this river. The point on the S.E. side is known by the church
and convent of the town of Aparri built on it ; abreast of which or North
from the church is the best anchorage, with the volcanic mountain on Cami-
guin Island bearing N.N.E. easterly.

From the mouth of the Eio Grande de Cagayan the sandy coast continues
for 14 miles to the bar of the Ahulag and Pamplona Rivers. Point Pata is
15 miles N.W. of Pamplona Bar, and appears as a round hill of middling
height. Hence to Cape Bojeador the coast is steep, without any soundings
until near the shore. The coast to the westward is described on pp. 605-6.

The BABUYAN or Five Islands form a kind of circular chain fronting

936 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

the North coast of Luzon. The channels between them are said to be safe,
without soundings, and their coasts are generally steep-to.

Dalupiri Island, the westernmost of the group, has a level appearance,
extends 6 or 7 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and may be seen from a
distance of 30 miles. About 1^ mile off its South point is Rijutan Islet, sur-
rounded by shoals.

Fuga Island, distant about 8 miles S.E. of Dalupiri, is lower, and of an
even appearance, terminating in low land at the eastern part. It is about
10 miles long, East and West, and there are irregular soundings along its
S.W. side, where a vessel may occasionally anchor.

The Bay of Musa is formed between the West end of Puga and two small
islands adjacent, called Barrete and Mahag. The best channel into the bay
is from the southward, between Barrete and the West point of Fuga, the
depths being 14 and 16 fathoms outside, and 9 to 12 fathoms in mid-
channel. Barrete Island has a reef lying off its West side, and another pro-
jecting from its South point. Water may be procured, but with difficulty,
some distance inland. Musa Bay, although sheltered from the sea, is only
fit to run for in case of necessity.

Calayan Island, lying about 15 miles N.E. of Dalupiri, is formed of
mountainous and uneven land, highest in the centre, with, low gaps in some
places ; it is steep-to, without any safe anchorage, and may be seen in clear
weather at a distance of 45 miles. Some rocks above water extend about a
mile from the South and East points ; and about 1 1 mile off the N.E. point
is an islet called Panuctan, about a mile in extent North and South.

Wyllie Rocks, consisting of two clusters above water, with high breakers
between, are dangerous to vessels passing through the Babuyan group at
night. The southernmost rock, which is the largest, bears N.N.E. distant
about 5 miles from Panuctan Islet ; the other cluster lies about 1^ mile in
a N.N.E. direction from the largest rock. Sunken rocks lies between the
Wyllie Eocks and Panuctan.

BABUYAN CLARO, the most northerly and highest of the Babuyan
Islands, is about 25 miles E.N.E. from Calayan. On its West end is a
volcano, between which and the mountains on the eastern part is a concave
curve in the form of a crescent, when viewed from the North or South ; but
when the island is seen at a great distance from the eastward, it appears as
one round mountain with a detached hummock to the northward. A reef
projects from the West point of the island. The South point is steep and
rocky, and about a mile off it is a black rocky islet, in the form of a sugar-
loaf.

CAMIGTJIN ISLAND, about 10 miles in extent N.N.E. and S.S.W., is
high and hilly, and lies about 26 miles South of Babuyan Claro. Its shore
in some places is bordered with coral rocks, having soundings of 30 to 35
fathoms about a mile off ; and the land is low close to the sea, along its

THE BASHI OR BATAN ISLANDS. 937

eastern and northern sides. The southern part of the island is formed of a
high mountain, formerly a volcano, visible at a distance of 60 miles. To
the westward of this mountain some steep cliffs front the sea, about 2 miles
to the southward of the South point of Port San Pio Quinto.

Port San Pio ftninto may be considered the only place amongst these
islands tolerably safe for a large ship, for the bottom in it is not so rocky as
in Musa Bay, Fuga Island. The port is formed by a concavity in the land
about 3 miles wide and L} mile deep, a little southward of the middle of the
West side of Camiguin, and is sheltered from the westward by Pio Quinto
Islet, which lies in the middle of the entrance. This islet is high, about 1^
mile in circumference, steep to seaward, and has on each side a safe channel
leading to the port.

It is high water, full and change, in Port San Pio Quinto at 6*" 0™, and
springs rise about 6 ft.

GUINAPAE ROCKS (or Southern Pillars), bearing E. by S. about 10
miles from the North point of Camiguin, consist of two rocks like towers,
one larger than the other, with some smaller rocks contiguous. There are
no soundings within a short distance of their eastern side ; between them
and the nearest part of Camiguin is a channel 6 miles wide, which is safe on
the island side.

DIDICAS ROCKS (or Northern Pillars), about 7 or 8 miles N.E. ^ E. of
the Guinapae, are a group of four sharp-pointed rocks, much higher than
the latter, and when seen at a considerable distance appear like ships under
sail. They are about 2 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., and among them
are many rocks of various sizes, which render their approach dangerous in
light winds ; for the currents run strong to the northward, producing rip-
plings like breakers in the vicinity of and among these dangers, and there
are no soundings near them where a vessel could anchor in case of necessity.

The BASHI or BATAN ISLANDS, so called by Dampier from the name
of an intoxicating liquor much used by the natives, lie northward of the
Babuyan group, and consist of a chain of islands, mostly high, extending
from lat. 10° 58' to 21° 13' N., and the channels among them are thought to
be safe and free from hidden danger. During the N.E. monsoon strong
winds prevail amongst these islands, and the currents are occasionally very
strong ; the flood sets to the S.W., the ebb to the N.E.

These islands, with those just described, form part of that great volcanic
band before alluded to, which may be traced far to the northward. The
islands of Batan and Sabtan are mountainous, with many broad cultivated
spots ; the highest peak, apparently an old volcano, is about 5,000 ft. above
the level of the sea, and thickly covered with trees. Abundance of vegeta-
bles and fruits are to be got. Cattle, pigs, poultry, sheep, and goats are also

I. A. 6 D

938 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

abundant. Deer are found on Sabtan and Ibugos, and quail on all the
islands. Wood is reasonable and plentiful, as well as water ; but this latter
necessary is difficult to procure.

Balintang Islands, said to lie in lat. 19° 58' N., long. 122° 14' E., and the
southernmost of this group, consist of three small but high-peaked islets or
rocks, visible about 27 miles off, in clear weather, and, when in one, bear
E. by S. and W. by N. The westernmost islet is much larger than the others,
and a hole is seen through it when bearing N.E. They are steep-to, and
may be passed on either side at 2 or 3 miles distance, but the sea beats
violently against them in bad weather.

The Balintang channel, between these islets and Babuyan Claro, is about
25 miles wide, and is frequently used by vessels when proceeding by the
eastern passages to China.

BATAN ISLAND is about 9 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and Mount
Irada, on its northern extremity, is 3,806 ft. above the sea. The rest of the
island is mountainous, and has several broad and cultivated spots.

Captain Sir Edward Belcher in the Samarang anchored in the bay of San
Domingo, on the western side of Batan Island, on a fair clear bottom of fine
coral sand, the best berth being with the convent barely open, when moored
off the northern point of the bay in 13 fathoms ; this, however, is not very
secure with a northerly wind. Although the holding ground is good, thia
bay can only be resorted to in the N.E. monsoon.

The authorities recommended the anchorage off San Carlos, about 2 miles
to the N.W., as the best for obtaining a supply of water ; but this position
is exposed. The next anchorage is that of San Vincente, which is the port of
Ivana, or landing-place for that village ; it, however, ought not to be resorted
to, as it is very confined, and must be quitted the moment a northerly wind
threatens.

Sabtan Island is separated from the S.W. end of Batan, by a channel 2
miles wide, which appears clear of danger. Off the North end of Saban are
two ledges of rock, with a passage between them carrying 14 and 10 fathoms
water.

Ibugos Island is small and rather low, excepting a hill on its South end,
where there is a village. It is separated from the West side of Sabtan by a
channel from a mile to half a mile wide, which affords indifferent anchorage,
the bottom being rocky, with sandy patches between. There are no facilities
for watering. Dequez Island, also small and rather low, lies nearly half a
mile westward of the N. W. point of Ibugoa.

As the current sets strong to the northward between the above islands in
the N.E. monsoon, it is advisable to work westerly round Dequez, and not
to cross the channel between Batan and Sabtan until the dividing neck of
San Carlos is clearly open, E.S.E., as the stream dividing at Mabatui Point

IBAYAT AND NORTH ISLANDS. 939

sends one current southerly ; the other, which is an eddy, is favourable from
thence north-easterly to San Domingo.

Ibayat Island, about 8 miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., lies 14 miles
N.N.W. of Batan, and the channel between is free from danger ; Mount Sta.
Rosa at its North end rises 680 ft., and Mount Riposet at its north-eastern
part, 800 ft. above the level of the sea. The island is without anchorage ;
the interior is, however, highly cultivated. Abundance of refreshments can
be easily obtained.

Diogo is a small island, 848 ft. above the sea, lying 3^ miles eastward of
Ibyayat, and the channel between is clear of danger.

Madubis Island, lying N.N.E. 6 miles from the North end of Ibayat, is
about IJ mile long in a N.E. and S.W. direction, high and steep-to. One
mile S.S.W. of it is Siayan Island, about 1^ mile in circumference, having
off its N.E. side several detached rocks. The channel between Mabudis
and Siayan is rendered unsafe by detached rocks ; that between Ibayat and
Siayan is about 4 miles wide, and free from danger.

Y'Ami, the northern island of the Bashi group, is about a mile in circum-
ference and tolerably high. The position of the islet lying off its S.W. point
(by Sir Edward Belcher) is lat. 21° 4' 56" N., long. 121° 58' 24" E.

North Island, lying 2 miles S.S.W. from Y'Ami, is high and steep-to, ex-
cept on its eastern side, off which, at a cable's length, there are three islets
and some detached rocks. The channel between Y'Ami and North Island is
safe, and carries soundings with rocky bottom, but too deep for anchorage ;
that between Mabudia and North Island is 9 miles wide, and free from
danger.

The North Bashi Rocks could not be found by Capt. Sir E. Belcher, who
states " they have no existence in the position assigned them in the charts,
nor in the visual radius from the mast-head of the Samarang, 108 ft. above
the level of the sea."

The islands on the North side of the Bashi Channel will be described
hereafter.

DUGAY TROUIN REEF was reported by the captain of a vessel of that
name in 1875, to lie N.E. of Luzon, in lat. 19° 5' N., long. 124° 43' E.

( 940 )

THE COAST OF CHINA,

The coast line of this important empire, which contains more than one-
third of the population of the globe, is about 2,500 miles in extent, and has
been well surveyed by our Admiralty. The charts and directions between
Canton and the Yang-tze Kiang will be as safe guides as in any other portion
of the globe. This is a triumph of hydrography, and was a result of the in-
glorious war commenced in 1839-40, consequent upon the destruction of the
opium at Canton, April 3, 1839, On July 5th, 1840, Chusan was taken
possession of by a British fleet, among the officers of which were Admirals
Sir Richard CoUinson and Henry Kellett. To their energy and skill the com-
mencement of the noble survey is due. The survey continued between the
years 1840-6, and the result is a fine series of charts and instructions,
describing, with minute accuracy, a coast which might be claimed as almost
first discovered by them, as there were no prior nautical surveys of by far
the largest portion.

While foreign commerce was so sedulously confined to the single port of
Canton, the only attempts at true delineation were the partial surveys of the
rivers by that excellent surveyor Daniel Koss, 1807 — 1816. Some other
observers, such as R. Wallis, D. Inverarity, &c., added a few particulars.
In other respects we were almost entirely indebted to the noble work of
Jean Baptiste du Halde, a Jesuit missionary, who arranged the vast mass of
information collected by his brother missionaries in China, and published
them in four splendid volumes in 1735. The series of maps accompanying
this work deserve some notice. The whole of the empire was carefully sur-
veyed, by astronomical observations and triangulation by these Jesuit mis-
sionaries, under the authority of the Emperor Chang-hi; commenced in
1708, and completed in 1718. These maps and their text deserve most
honourable consideration.

Now, however, the Admiralty surveys, chiefly conducted by Capt. CoUinson,
have totally superseded these imperfect representations of the coast line,
while the survey made by the squadron when in the upper Yang-tse Kiang,
and other observations have given us a much clearer insight into the inner
geography of China.

THE COAST OF CHINA. 941

To add to the completeness of our knowledge, in the year 1877, H.M.S.
Nassau, Commander Napier, commenced to examine the several dangers dis-
covered near the shore by the hugging of the land during the strength of the
N.E. monsoon by the numerous large steam-ships engaged in trade between
the Treaty Ports.

The troublesome wars which were forced upon the British Government by
the insolence and duplicity of the Chinese authorities, added to the great
internal disorganization, terminated in the Treaty of Tientsin, which was
concluded by Lord Elgin on June 26, 1858, and this placed the external
commerce of China on a satisfactory basis. A fresh treaty was entered into
after Peking was entered by the British and French armies, on October 24,
1860, and a new treaty not yet completed will further open the country to
foreigners.

The whole coasting trade of the empire is open to foreign commerce,
though, of course, this is but of limited utility. The wonderful commerce
which has sprung up since its establishment, and its probable futxire develop-
ment, may be judged by the fact that in 1863 there were only four or five
ordinary lights on the Chinese coasts, which are now pretty well lighted.

The following is a list * of the Treaty Ports and the tonnage (coast trade)
entered at each during the year 1875 :— Shanghai, 847,443; Chinkiang,
599,118; Kinkiang, 615,503; Chefoo, 295,313; Hankow, 283,375; Amoy,
277,259; Ningpo, 267,428; Swatow, 206,633; Tientsin, 167,217 ; Foochow,
133,823; Newchwang, 117,194; Canton, 102,700; Takow, 34,914; and
Tamsui, 26,516. The two latter ports are in Formosa. There are 843
foreign firms and 3,579 foreign residents at these ports, 211 firms and 1,611
residents being British, 46 firms and 541 residents American, and 52 firms
and 367 residents German. Pakhoi, at the head of the Tongking Gulf,
and Hoi-how, in Hainan, two recently opened ports, are described pre-
viously.

The coast generally is low, but with bold headlands, in the S.W. portion
At the entrance of the Canton Eiver it commences to be high and rocky, and
thus continues to Chusan, where it becomes very low, and so continues as
far as the Gulf of Pechili, with the exception of the bold, rocky, gold-bearing
promontory of Shantung. The ensuing descriptions commence with the
S.W., and follow those of the shore of Tong-King and Hainan, given on
pages 468 et seq.

Keport on the trade of China for the year 1875, by H. Kopsch, F.R.G.S,

CHAPTEK XX.

THE COAST OF CHINA, BETWEEN HAINAN AND HONG KONG.

NOW-CHOW, in about lat. 20" 58' N., long. 110° 36' E., bearing 8.W.
about 45 miles from Tien-pak, and lying oflF the north-eastern part of the
peninsula of Lien-chew, is a small port dangerous to enter, but when in it
there is good shelter. This place was a rendezvous of the Ladrones (pi-
rates), whose vessels anchored in great numbers alongside the forts and
town, their crews being part of the inhabitants.

The anchorage of Now-Chow, some 5 miles in width, and abounding in
eand-banks, especially requires surveying. At certain seasons it is likely to
remain the place of call for vessels bound to Hainan, and the approach to
it from either side requires much care. The difficulties of proceeding to the
southward are mentioned on page 475.

Now-Chow Island is about 300 ft. high, 9 miles long, 3 miles broad, and
well cultivated. Strangers should be careful to avoid the sand-banks on the
northern shore. The North point of the island is 5 miles W. by N. from the
eastern point, and the space between is full of rocks, awash. Off this point
is a dangerous horn of sand, and it would be advisable to obtain a pilot
from a fishing boat, or anchor, and send to the town for one, before preceed-
ing farther. Low water would be the best time to enter, as the shoals are
then visible.

The town stands in a small bay on the western point of the island, which
is S. W. by S. 6 miles from the northern point. Here may be obtained good
pilots for the dangers in the vicinity of the island.

In addition to the bank in the centre of the channel, there is a bank with
only 6 ft. water, extending from the island. The least water found (4
fathoms) by H.M.S. Algerine, in 1868, was off the North end of the island,
7 fathoms were carried through the channel, it then deepened to 10, towards
the fort. The best anchorage is off' the village, on the S.W. side of the
island, but not too close to the fort, as the water is deep. Wood and water
can be obtained at Now-Chow.

TIEN-PAK. 943

ftuan-Chow-Wan Bay is extensive, and has its narrow entrance at 8 miles
within and otf the N.W. point of Now-Chow Island. By some it is recom-
mended as a superior stopping place to Now-Chow, but the banks off its
entrance will prevent its becoming much used. From the Now-Chow an-
chorage, with clear weather, the mountain Kam Loong (Golden Dragon) or
Toong hong Shan, bearing about S.W. by W., over 20 miles distance, may
be seen ; the successive bearings of which are of great service when entering
Quan-chow-wan by the southern channel, the channel most recommended.
This bay was formerly a great resort for pirates.

TIEN-PAK, or Tihen-Pien, is the principal place on the South Coast of
China, where salt is produced, and several hundred junks are employed
transporting it to Canton.

The high land on the N.E. side of the road, called Lintoa, has the appear-
ance of a high round mountain in coming from the eastward ; its southern
extreme is called Seij-ho, or Sye-ho Point. From this point, E. by S. 1^ mile
and 1 mile distant from the high land, lies a reef of rocks, on which the
sea often breaks. From Sey-ho Point, S.W. about half a mile, lies Pauk-
pyah, a large white rock, having between it and the point 6 and 7 fathoms
water; Foong-hje-chye, a small island, lies about 1^ mile to the westward of
it. Ty-fmig-hjoh, about 2 miles to the south-westward of the latter, is of
considerable height, being the outermost island of the road, in 21" 22^' N.,
long. 11 r 10^' E.

The city of Tien-pak is walled round, and is of considerable extent. A
ship touching here in distress may procure temporary masts, and get iron-
work done in the city ; refreshments of all kinds may be got from the vil-
lages contituous to the harbour.

A small ship in want of shelter from a N.E. or East gale, may keep near
the reef of rocks to the eastward of Sey-ho Point, then steer between that
point and Pauk-pyah, and anchor in 4 fathoms, sand and mud, about three-
quarters of a mile westward of the point. She must not go farther to the
northward. Large ships ought to pass about a mile to the southward of
Pauk-pyah and Foong-kye-chye, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, and anchor in 6
fathoms water between the latter and Ty-fung-kj'oh, or rather a little inside
this island, which will shelter them from the S.W. winds.

To the N.W. of the bar about If mile lies Marble Rock, and nearly 4 miles
farther westward there is a reef of black rocks ; neither of these can be ap-
proached, the water being very shoal on that side of the bar.

It is high water, full and change, on the bar of Tien-pak Harbour at 12
hours, and the tide rises 8 ft. After the 1st of September, there is almost
a constant westerly current along this coast, running from half to 1^ mile
per hour.

Ty-Chook-Chow is an island lying about 7 miles E. by N. from Sey-ho
Point, and 3 miles distant from the coast. It has rocks on the North side,

944 THE COAST OF CHINA.

stretching to the north-westward and towards the coast ; but there is anchor-
age on its West side.

Chin-Chew, bearing N.E. by E. J E. 5^ miles from Ty-chbok-chow, is
high, and covered with grass ; it should not be approached on the South
side nearer than 1^ or 2 miles, in 10 and 11 fathoms water, for a reef of
rocks, on which the sea generally breaks, projects S. i E. from it about
three-quarters of a mile.

SONG-YUI POINT, bearing from Chin-Chew E. by N. i N. about 10
miles, is the S.W. extremity of the Great Bay, at the N.E. part of which is
Hai-ling Harbour; close to it there are 9 or 10 fathoms water. The Brothers^
distant 3 miles N.N.E. from Song-yi Point, are two islets near the high
island, having rocks projecting from them about half a mile.

HUI-LING-SAN HARBOUR. — Hai-ling-shan, or Hui-Ung-san, is a high
island, extending E.N.E. and W.S.W. about 12 miles, separated from the
coast on the North side by a narrow passage, and having an extensive shoal
bay to the N.E., and a harbour on the West side. Two small islands, some*
times called the Twins, and by the Chinese Mamee-chow, bear from Song-yui
Point E. by N. | N., distant 10 miles, and lie close to the S.W. point of
Hai-ling-shan, being united to it by a reef and sand-bank. They form the
outer point of Hui-ling-san Harbour ; and, in coming from the eastward,
being on with each other, appear as a single island.

Bluff Point, bearing E. by N. 8 miles from the Mamee-chow Islets, is high,
and has 9 and 10 fathoms water close-to ; and 4 miles N.E. by E. f E. from
that point are two rocky islets close togther, appearing as three small hum-
mocks. A little inland from these stands Sugar-loaf Hill, which does not
show its peak when seen to the eastward of Bluff Point.

Close to the East point of Hai-ling-shan, and bearing E. by N. f N., dis-
tant 5^ miles from the two rocky islets, there is a small island, having 7 fa-
thoms water close to it, and to the East end of Hai-ling-shan ; but S.W. by S.
\\ mile from the small island, there is a reef of rocks nearly covered at
high water. On the East part of Hai-ling-shan, contiguous to the sea,
there is a remarkable patch of red sand, discernible when off the Man-
darins Cap.

To sail into the harbour, if coming from the eastward, pass about a quarter
of a mile from the South side of the Mamee-chow in 8 fathoms water, and
round them about the distance of a cable's length in 7 fathoms. Steer direct
for Deep Water Point, which bears N.N.E., distant rather more than half a
mile, which pass at rather less distance than a cable's length, for the edge of
a 2^-faihom bank is within a quarter of a mile of it.

From this point steer N.N.E. ^ E. about a mile, for a fort on the summit
of a small hill covered with trees, until abreast of Teep-chow, a small island
about mid-way between them, to the westward of which, about a quarter of
a mile distant, large ships should anchor with the fort bearing N.E, by N.

MANDARINS CAP. 945

The West side of the bay, between the Mamee-chow and the Brothers,
should not be approached under 5 fathoms water, the bottom being sandy,
with shoal water under that depth.

The bay between Teep-chow and Deep-water Point has only 2J fathoms
water; here, adjacent to a small joss-house in ruins, fresh water may be
procured. The harbour for small vessels is in the bay formed between
Teep-chow and the fort, where the depths are 8 and 9 ft. Chino Village
stands in this bay, where water and refreshments are obtained ; carpenters
and caulkers may be got to work on board, and smith's work can be executed
at the village.

In Hui-ling-san Harbour it is high water, full and change, about 8| hours,
and the tide rises from 7 to 8 ft.

Ty-oa Point and Bay are about 16 miles E.N.E. from the East end of
Hai-ling-shan, and N.N.W. \ W., 16^ miles from Mandarins Cap. The
depths decrease regularly coming from Mandarins Cap, to 4 J fathoms at low
water close to Ty-oa Point. Inside the point, and in the extensive bay to
the north-westward, the water is shoal.

The following islands and rocks lie off the coast, between Hai-ling-shan
and Hawcheun : —

MANDARINS CAP, called Fan-shee-ak, " White Eock," by the Chinese,
in lat. 21° 28' N., long. 112° 21f E., is a barren white rock, about 200 ft.
high, converging gradually to the summit, and terminating in a sharp peak.
Near it, to the northward, lie two other rocks, one of which is very small.
From Mandarins Cap, Nam-oa Harbour bears N.E. by E. distant 13 miles,
and the South end of St. John Island E. by N. I N., nearly 24 miles. On
the South and West sides there are 15 and 16 fathoms, mud bottom, within
a cable's length of the rock, and 13 fathoms a little to the northward.

Currents. — In August and September, when easterly winds frequently pre-
vail, the current sometimes sets to the westward 3 miles per hour off Manda-
rins Cap, abating only to IJ mile per hour when the tide, under ordinary
circumstances, would be setting to the eastward. The westerly current con-
stantly prevails along this coast during the easterly monsoon, and frequently
in the S.W. monsoon, particularly if the wind veer to the eastward.

Nam-Pang, bearing N.W. by W. f W., distant lOf miles from Mandarins
Cap, is high at the West end, and about 1^ mile in length. It is safe to
approach all round. Round Island, bearing West 3^ miles from Nam-pang,
is small, and named from its appearance. To the S.S.W. of it about 2 miles
there are two rocks awash. The Quoin is an islet resembling a gunner's quoin,
lying near the East side of Nee-wok Island, and 2f miles N.N.W. of Nam-
pang. Nee-wok is an island of moderate height, about a mile in length,
bearing from Nam-pang N.W. ^ N. about 3^ miles.

, Ty-wok, about 1^ mile N.N.W. of Nee-wok, is high, appearing like a
I. A. 6 b

946 THE COAST OF CHINA.

saddle when viewed from the S.W. S.W. by S. 1 mile from Ty-wot, and
N.W. i W. from the summit of Nam-pang, there is a rock with 7 fathoms
all round, which is generally visible 3 or 4 ft. above water, and the sea al-
ways breaking upon it, renders it conspicuous in passing.

MONG-CHOW, bearing N.N.E. IH miles from Mandarins Cap, is a high
island, about 2^ miles in length, and covered with verdure. There is a town
near its summit, only discoverable from the S.E. ; some rocks lie ofiPits N.E.
point. Small vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms at low water, on the West
side of this island, during easterly winds ; and fresh water may be procured
at a small beach on that side, near the South point.

HAWCHEUN, or False St. John, is a high island, extending N.E. and
S.W. about 11 miles. The S.W. end, in lat. 21° 35' N., long. 112° 31 V E.,
is a bluff point, having 7 and 8 fathoms water close-to ; and close round it
on the West side there are two small bays, with sandy beaches, having 3^
fathoms water, where small vessels may take shelter. A large ship will be
sheltered from easterly winds by anchoring in 5 or 6 fathoms, soft mud,
about a mile off.

NAMOA HARBOUR is formed between the S.W. end of Hawcheun and
Namoa Island, and, although rather small, it is safe and convenient for re-
fitting a ship, after being disabled by a typhoon, or otherwise requiring
shelter. The South or large entrance is about 1^ mile eastward of the high
bluff S.W. point of Hawcheun, and is preferable to the eastern entrance for
ships drawing above 16 ft. water; having 6 fathoms in it, gradually de-
creasing to the sandy beach at the village of Namoa fronting it, and no dan-
ger whatever. It is three-quarters of a mile wide, having an islet on the
East side, called Passage Island, joined to the West point of Namoa by a few
rocks. With an easterly wind the best anchorage for a large ship is about
halfway between Passage Island and Green Point, which has a round mound
on it covered with grass, and forms the N.W. point of Namoa. Here she
will have 4^ or 5 fathoms, soft mud, at low water, according as her berth is
near to or farther from Namoa, and will be sheltered by this island, which
is 500 ft. high, to the eastward, and by the high land of Hawcheun to the
northward, round to S.W., from whence, if it blow strong, a long ground
swell rolls in, rendering it necessary to move further in, to the western part
of the harbour, where there are 4^ to 4 fathoms, mud, at low water.

The eastern entrance, between Namoa Island and the S.E. part of Haw-
cheun, has 4J fathoms, gradually decreasing inside to 3^ fathoms at low
water springs ; and, although it is the most contracted of the two, will be
found convenient for small ships. The channel is, with the exception of a
few narrow passages, of about 90 or 100 ft. wide, staked completely across ;
but vessels very soon shoot through them. The best berth for a small ship
is in 3 fathoms, abreast the sandy beach on Namoa, which forms Green Point,

NAMOA HAEBOUR. 947

not so far in as to open the South entrance, but to see it over the narrow neck
of that point.

There are several watering places about the harbour, the largest and most
convenient of which is in Watering Bay, a sandy bay on Hawcheun, bearing
from Green Point N.N.E. ; here the water comes close to the beach.

Barren Island, about a mile to the northward of Green Point, has a white
conical rock inside of it ; both are connected with Hawcheun at low water,
and separate Watering Bay from Namoa Bay, in which is Namoa Village,
consisting of about 100 brick houses, at a small distance from the shore.
Here a few refreshments and fish may be procured ; but guard against the
crews of any Ladrone boats, which may be about the coast.

It is high water, full and change, in Namoa Harbour, at about 10 hours,
and the rise of tide is 7 to 8 ft. ; and then a small drain of ebb sets out
through each of the channels.

Directions. —To ei;ter Namoa Harbour by the eastern entrance, if coming
from the eastward, after rounding the South end of St. John pretty close,
steer about W. by N.; or, if the ebb is running, more northerly, which course
will lead near the Boat Rock, which bears from St. John, South point W. f N.,
distant 7 miles. It has 7 fathoms water close-to, is about the size of a small
boat, never entirely covered, and the sea generally breaks on it. To the
northward of this rock about three-quarters of a mile lies Round Island,
the southernmost of a chain of five rocky islets fronting the East side of
Hawcheun. Having passed a short distance southward of Boat Rock, steer
about W.N.W. for the entrance of the harbour, distant 3 miles, taking care
to avoid the rocks, which have 7 fathoms close to them, projecting nearly
three-quarters of a mile from the S.E. part of Namoa.

The FIVE ISLANDS, fronting the East side of Hawcheun, are mostly
small, and bound the West side of the channel between it and St. John.
Round Island, the southernmost of them, and Boat Rock bearing S.E. by E. ^ E.
nearly three-quarters of a mile from it, have been mentioned above ; there
are also other rocks, high above water, near its South side. Wasp Island,
next to the northward of Round Island, is the largest of the group ; high at
each end, and nearly separated in the middle, with some rocks close to its
East side. Cricket, the third island, is high, and covered with grass. The
fourth, called Pipachoio, is of middling height, covered with grass, having
some rocks above water projecting off its South end ; there are 4^ fathoms
water close to these rocks, and also between them and the other island to the
southward, and the same depth close to the East side of Pipachow. The
fifth, or northernmost island, lies nearest the Hawcheim shore, with 4 fa-
thoms at low water between it and that shore.

There is no hidden danger near these islands, and a vessel drawing not
more than 15 ft. water may either pass or anchor between them and Haw-
cheun, keeping rather nearer to the island. Here she will find shelter in 3

948 THE COAST OF CHINA.

or 3J fathoms, soft ground, at low water, and can be supplied with refresh-
ments from the town of Hawcheun, which stands in a small bay fronting the
islands. All the space between these islands and St. John is clear from
hidden danger, with depths of 5 and 6 fathoms, soft ground.

To the northward of the Five Islands the depths increase to 4J and 5 fa-
thoms, in a direct line towards the West point of St. John, and continue the
same in passing about mid-channel between this point and the island lying
off the N.E. end of Hawcheun. Here is the narrowest part of the channel,
which is about a mile wide, where vessels may be sheltered during bad
weather. The entrance of the channel, generally called St. John Road ox Bay
between the South part of St. John and the Five Islands, is more open to
blowing weather ; for some ships at anchor there have been obliged to cut
their cables and put to sea.

ST. JOHN ISLAND, or Chang Cheun-cham, in length about 15 miles N.N.E.
and S.S.W., has been generally considered as two islands, for in coming
from the eastward or westward, the high land on each extremity appears
separated by a large gap, which, on a near approach, is found to be a
low, narrow isthmus of sand, uniting the high land, and having a bay on
each side.

There are 7 and 9 fathoms near the East side of the island, and no hidden
danger, excepting a small rock, visible only at low water, lying off a bluff
point, about 2 miles to the southward of the N.E. point of the island, from
■whence the land stretches to the south-westward. About a mile off the
N.E. point of the island there are some rocks, always above water, with a
passage of 8 and 9 fathoms between them and the point ; and to the north-
ward of them there are 5 and 6 fathoms.

On the North side of the island there are two small bays separated by a
narrow peninsula. The western bay, called Sam-chmo-tong, or Tree Island
Bay, is the largest, with several small islands in it, and only 2f fathoms
water within the point ; there is a village in this bay, where refreshments
may be obtained. All this side of the island is free from danger.

The large bay on the West side of St. John, opposite the sandy, low
isthmus, extends into the island about 4 miles ; but a ship cannot enter it,
the water being shoal 18 to 12 ft.

Shitoe or Satye Bay, on the S.W. side of St. John, has 6 and 7 fathoms
water at the entrance, and a small vessel may go farther in, and anchor in
4 or SI fathoms ; but it is too narrow for a large ship, unless she were to
warp in.

Wycaup is a small, high, rocky island, fronting the S.E. end of St. John
Island, being separated from it by a narrow passage. There are 13 and 14
fathoms water close round this island on the outside.

Lieuchieu is an island of moderate height and barren aspect, separated
from Wycaup and the S.E, part of St. John by a safe channel 2^ miles wide.

CANTON RIVERS. 949

The WIZARD ROCKS lie off the South end of Ty-kam, between St. John
and Coucok Island, 12 miles N.E. ^ N. from Lieuchieu. The outermost,
named the Flies, consist of a group of five or six rocks, about 30 ft. high,
having 10 fathoms, mud, at the distance of a cable's length from them. The
Great or South Wizard Rock bears from the Flies N. by W. f W., distant 1
mile ; and If mile northward from it lies a white conical rock, called the
Inner or White Wizard. Near the South Wizard the depths are 6 and 7 fa-
thoms, and near the White Wizard about 5 fathoms, soft ground. S.W.
three-quarters of a mile from the White Wizard, there is a rock, covered at
high tide, making it necessary for a ship passing between them to keep
nearest to the South Wizard. There is another rock, always above water,
bearing W. by N. from the White Wizard, having 4 fathoms near it ; and
there is a passage with 4 J fathoms water between the White Wizard and the
South point of Tykam.

Tykam Island, lying to the northward of the Wizard Rocks, is of con-
siderable height, of darker aspect than the other land, and in clear weather
appears with red streaks. Between this island and Tonquay, the next island
to the westward, the water is shoal, and also in the large space to the west-
ward of Tonqua.

COUCOK, the next island to the eastward of Tykam, is high, and 4 miles
in extent East and West. Its S.W. point has a remarkable rock close to it,
resembling a boat under sail. The West side of the island is formed by a
steep hilly ridge stretching North and South, having good anchorage under
it in 6 fathoms. Fresh water may be obtained at the westernmost of two
small bays on the North side of the island.

Tymong Island lies to the northward of Coucok, having an islet, called
Samcok, joined to the S.W. point by rocks visible at low water.

Tylou is a high island, with a large ichite patch on its eastern side, resem-
bling a ship's mizen or mizen stay-sail, when viewed in some directions.
The island is separated from Coucok by a channel about 2 miles wide, with
7 and 6 fathoms water in it. By passing close round the East point of
Coucok, it appears that vessels of moderate draught might anchor to the
northward of that point in 5 fathoms, sheltered from most winds.

CANTON RIVERS.

As vessels bound to Canton River from the southward in the S.W. mon-
soon endeavour to make Great Ladrone Island bearing about North, and
then proceed towards the river by the Great West Channel, a description
will first be given of the islands and anchorages on the West side of this
channel, from San-chau Island to Cum-sing-mun Harbour (including the

950 THE COAST OF CHINA.

Broadway and the Si kiang), and then returning to the Ladrone Islands the
mariner will be taken through the different passages eastward of these
islands to Hong Kong, and to the entrance of the river.

SAN-CHAU, which forms the West side of entrance to the Broadway, is
the next large island north-eastward of Tylou Island, and its 8.E. point
bears W. by N. 13^ miles from the Little Ladrone. The space between
San-chau and Tylou is shoal, with some islets and rocks adjoining the N.E.
end of the latter. The depths decrease gradually off San-chau.

MONTANHA, or Wunp Cum Island, forming the East side of entrance to
the Broadway, is a large high island N.E. of San-chau, and close to its N E.
side is Ko-ho Island. These two islands form the South side of the Typa
anchorage ; and the Great West Channel is bounded by them on the West,
and by Potoe and the other islands adjacent on the East.

The BROADWAY is the chief and eastern entrance, and the only one yet
surveyed, of the Si-kiang. It has sufficient depth to admit a vessel of
moderate draught a considerable way up, and may be found useful to such
as intend to make a long stay near Macao, or to those who have parted from
their anchors, and draw too much water to attempt the Typa anchorage.
Its entrance is 9 miles south-westward of Macao, between the islands of
San-chau and Montanha.

The Water Islands are two small islets lying close off the South end of
Montanha ; and N.W. f N. a mile from them lies Inside Islet, having a
small inlet, called Lark Bay, between it and Morgan Point (608 ft, above
the sea), the West extreme of Montanha. These islands are on the East
side of the Broadway entrance, and Coffin Island, bearing S.W. by W. J W.,
distant 4 miles from the Water Islands, is on the western side. At 5 miles
in a S. f E. direction from Montanha Peak and 2| miles from the Water
Islands is a shoal patch of 12 ft.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the Broadway
at IP, and springs rise 7^ ft. The neaps are very irregular, there being
then only one flood and one ebb, of any considerable strength, during the
24 hours. The direction of the flood outside is governed principally by the
winds; with strong easterly winds it comes from E.S.E. ; and when south-
westerly winds prevail, from South. The ebb runs generally to the S.W.
Inside the river the tides take the direction of the channel.

Directions. — The best time to enter the Broadway is with the first of the
flood, and if at anchor in Macao Rimd and obliged to run for it with a N.E.
or East wind, about three-quarters ebb will be the best time to leave the
road, that the first of the flood may be met at the entrance, where it flows
sooner than in the road. Having rounded the East point of Ko-ho Island,
about IJ mile distant, in 4^ fathoms, steer at any convenient distance round
Apomi Point, the high S.E. extreme of Montanha.

When abreast the point, the Water Islands will be seen in one with each

CANTON RIVERS. 951

other, near the western extreme of a bay with a sandy beach. Steer to pass
about half or three-quarters of a mile southward of these islands, in 2J or 3
fathoms, then haul round the western island, preserving the same depth and
distance. Do not exceed the distance of 1 mile westward from this island,
for beyond that the water shoals fast to 2^ fathoms, towards the San-chau
shore. From abreast the islands about a N.N.W. ^ W. course, giving a
berth of three-quarters of a mile to Inside Islet, will lead up to abreast
Morgan Point, the West point of Montanha.

From the above point the water shoals gradually towards Ross Island on
the "West side of the channel. There is generally a line of fishing stakes
extending westward from the point, with passages among them for vessels.
Mong-chau, or Ballast Island, bears N.N.W., distant 2^ miles from Morgan
Point. N.W. f N. about 1^ mile from Morgan Point, and fronting the first
of the above passages, there is a rock which shows at low water about the
size of a small boat. The channel is about a cable's length westward of
this rock ; for W. i S. about a mile from it there is another rock, which also
shows at low water, and shoal banks bound the channel on both sides. Pak-
tang, a small island with a sharp hummock on its N.E. end, lies on the
western bank, W. ^ N. distant 3 miles from Ballast Island. The bank,
composed of mud, has only 6 ft. on it, and extends 1^ mile from Pak-tang
towards Ballast Island, contracting it to about the breadth of from half a mile
to a mile, with 2^ and 3 fathoms in it.

If intending to proceed farther up than Morgan Point steer N.N.W.
towards the rock fronting the first passage to Macao. When abreast the
rock, steer N.N.W. ^ W. IJ miles, and the vessel will then be abreast
Ballast Island, in 2f fathoms. This is a safe and convenient anchorage,
about 6 miles S.W. by W. of Macao, and the boats are kept in sight when
passing to and fro from that place. Fresh water may be obtained in a small
bay to the northward, under Beacon Hill, which is 690 ft. high, and has a
remarkable stone on its summit.

TYPA ANCHORAGE. — The eastern entrance to this anchorage is between
two high islands, that on the South side name Ko-ho or Apomee, and that
on the North side named Typa or Kaikong. Ko-ho is separated, from the
N.E. point of Montanha by a narrow gut with 24 ft. water in it, decreasing
to 9 or 10 ft. farther in towards the Typa. The anchorage is between the
West end of Typa Island and the East end of Macarira Island, and affords
secure shelter in 3^ to 4 fathoms. H.M. ships Herald and Modeste refitted
during the operations in China in 1841.

Tides. — In this anchorage, and in Macao Harbour, it is high water, full
and change, at lO** 0". The springs rise about 7 ft. ; in the Typa they run
1^ and 2 knots per hour, when not influenced by the winds. The ebb runs
out of the Typa entrance, but it sets across it when outside the points.

Directions. — Vessels entering or leaving the Typa should weigh at half

952 THE COAST OF CHINA.

flood. In entering steer for the North extreme of Ko-ho, and pass it pretty
close, the deepest water being on this side of the entrance ; continue on until
the summit of Sylock Island is in line with the North extreme of Ko-ho,
Keep this latter mark on, or the North point of Sylock just in sight, bearing
about E. f S., leads in the deepest water ; and when the East end of the
middle hill on Typa Island opens westward of a rocky mount forming the
S.W. point of the same island, haul gradually to the northward, and anchor
near the West point of Typa, with the South point of Sylock open of the
North extreme of Ko-ho.

Here the depth is 3 1^ to 4 fathoms at low tide, and vessels are sheltered
from all winds by the high lands around. The deepest water is near the
West point of Typa, for the bay abreast, at the East end of Macarira, ia
shoal. The watering cove is at the head of this latter bay, and from the
North point a reef of rocks projects nearly a quarter of a mile eastward ; a
vessel ought not to go so far northward as to approach this reef. In the
middle and eastern parts of the Typa the depths are only 14 and 15 ft. at low
tide, in the fair channel leading to the anchorage, but no injury can be re-
ceived by grounding, the bottom being remarkably soft.

MACAO HARBOUR. — Macao stands on a small peninsula projecting from
the S.E. end of Macao Island. The peninsula is nearly 2 miles long, less
than a mile wide at its broadest part, and is connected with the island by a
low, narrow, sandy isthmus, across which extends a barrier wall to exclude
foreigners from the interior of the island. The town is built on the declivi-
ties round the harbour, the shore beneath being embanked, so as to form a
marine parade, backed by a terrace of white houses. Eort Quia stands on
the hill to the N.W. of the town.

LIGHT. — A bright light, revolving every 64 seconds, is shown from Fort
Guia. It is elevated 330 ft., and said to be visible 15 to 20 miles off. It is
stated to be in lat. 22° 11' N., long. 113° 33' 30" E.

This settlement, known to the Chinese as Ngao-mun, was established by
the Portuguese in 1557, but has never been recognized as a possession of
Portugal by the Chinese government ; the British government, however,
has recognized the jurisdiction of its law courts as supreme. In December,
1873, the Portuguese goverment abolished the system of CooHe emigration
which has been existing since the suppression of the slave trade. Thig
traffic, if all is true that has been reported of it, equalled the old iniquities
of the African slave trade.

The Inner Harbour is formed between the peninsula and Patera Island to
the westward. Its entrance is narrow, but the depths are 20 ft. at low water
close to Fort San lago or Barra, which is built on the S.W. point ; and from
thence the soundings are 19 and 16 ft. along the western shore to the town.
There is an excellent landing pier. Steamers ply daily to Hong Kong, and
eyery other day to Canton.

MACAO. 953

Pedra Areca, a rock lying S.E. 4 cables from Fort Barra, is marked by a
beacon, and San Francisco Bank, If mile East of the fort, i» a mud patch,
with two heaps of ballast, with 4 and 5 ft. on them, and 10 ft. close to.

Pilots. — Canton River pilots are procured at Macao, and each receives a
chop from the residing mandarin, to deliver to the officer stationed at the
Boca Tigris, describing the force of the ship and to what nation she belongs.

MACAO ROAD is shoal, the depth being generally from 3 fathoms at low
■water springs on the West side, to 4 J or 5 fathoms close over to Samcock and
the other islands that bound the East side. There is, hcwever, said to be
much less water in it of late years, but as the bottom is soft loam or loose
mud there is no danger of a vessel striking on her anchors, for they imme-
diately bury in it.

Vessels of large draught usually anchor in deep water near the islands,
•with Macao bearing between W. by N. and W.N.W., distant 6 or 7 miles,
which render the communication with that place difficult and dangerous in
blowing weather. With Ko-ho Point S. by W. ^ W., and Macao W.N.W.,
distant 4 or 5 miles, a large vessel may anchor in about 4 fathoms at low
water, and be more conveniently situated for procuring a pilot. If drawing
imder 18 ft. she can anchor with Macao on the same bearing about 1^ mile
off the Typa entrance.

Small vessels may anchor in the S.W. monsoon in the entrance of the
Typa, off the Ko-ho shore, a little outside Ka-o Islet, in about 3 fathoms at
low water. In the N.E. monsoon they can anchor abreast a sandy beach,
between the Cau-chau or Nine Islands and Macao, in 3 or 3^ fathoms ; here
they will generally have smooth water and an easy communication with the
shore.

Directions. — The route to Macao Harbour for small vessels, through the
Typa anchorage, has 7 ft. at low tide in the fair track between the Typa and
the harbour, and 8 to 12 ft. between Typa Island and Macao. A vessel
should steer a direct course from the Typa to the harbour, and to avoid the
sunken rock, Pedra-mea, lying about a quarter of a mile eastward of the
N.E. point of Macarira, keep the N.E. point of Montanha open eastward of
Macarira ; or, in passing it, keep rather towards the Typa Island side of
mid-channel.

From thence, steer direct for the entrance of the harbour, avoiding Pedra
Areca Rock, from which the South point of the outermost of the two high
Ma-lo-chau Islets, to the S.W. of the entrance, bears W. by S. J S. IJ mile,
and the point of Fort Barra N. W. about 4 cables. The N.E. point of Mon-
tanha in line with East point of Macarira leads westward of the Pedra Areca,
and a vessel will not be too near it if she does not go eastward of a line
drawn from the West point of Typa Island to Fort Barra Point. This point
Bhould be rounded pretty close in entering and the eastern shore kept aboard
I. A. 6 r

954 THE COAST OF CHINA.

to the anchorage abreast the town, where a disabled ship may be hove down
and repaired.

Entering from the outer roads, fort Barra Point in line with the South
extreme of Anang village, W. by N., will lead between San Francisco Bank
and Pedra Areca in 9 feet least water, deepening as the harbour is ap-
proached.

CUM-SING-MUN HARBOUR.— From Macao the eastern shore of Macao
Island trends N.N.E. about 11 miles to Bluff Head, where it turns abruptly
westward, and forms a deep bight called Cum-sing-mun Harbour. This
harboiir is safe for small vessels, and it would be a desirable haven for
vessels of large draught to run for from the anchorage off Lintin, at the
approach of a typhon, were it not for the extensive shoal flat they would
have to cross, the depths being only 2 to 3 fathoms at 2 miles outside the
entrance ; but they increase quickly to 7 and 8 fathoms when within half a
mile of Bluff Head, which is the proper side to steer for in coming from the
S.E., and also to keep nearest to when running into the harbour.

The entrance, about half a mile wide, is between the South part of Kee-ow
Island and Bluff Head. Between this head and the small islet and sunken
rocks, near the island shore, the depths are irregular, from 14 to 6 fathoms ;
but inside, about half a mile West, or W. by S. from the small islet, the
bottom is soft, affording safe anchorage in 6, 5, or 4 fathoms, taking care,
however, to avoid the shoal patches shown on the chart.

GREAT LADRONE (Man-san of the Chinese), being the outermost island
directly fronting the estuary of Canton River, is generally used as a land-
fall by vessels bound there from the southward during the S.W. monsoon ;
and with the Little Ladrone adjoining to the westward, and Potoe to the
north-westward, bounds the East side of the Great West channel, leading to
the river.

This steep, bold island may be easily known by its N.W. part forming a
round mount or dome (1,465 ft. high), which, being more elevated than the
other parts, can be seen, in clear weather, about 27 miles from a vessel's
deck, and 40 miles from the mast-head ; none of the other islands have a
similar appearance, although most of them are high. The island is about 2
miles in diameter, with a rocky aspect close to the sea, but it is safe to ap-
proach, the depths near it being 14 or 15 fathoms ; on the S.W. part there
is a small inlet, named Pumice-stone Bay, where fishing boats take shelter
in the N.E. monsoon.

LITTLE LADROH'E {Pocking-han o{ the Chinese, is of a convex sloping
form, not so much elevated as the Great Ladrone, and separated from its
West side by a narrow channel of 9 to 18 fathoms water, but too confined
for a vessel unless in a case of necessity. Near the West side of the island
the depth is about 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 7 fathoms about half

CANTON RIVER. 955

a mile southward of Potoe ; there are 12 fathoms near its South point, and
14 and 15 fathoms near the South and S.E. sides of the Great Ladrone.

A small rocky islet lies close to the N.E. part of the Little Ladrone ; and
North nearly three-quartes of a mile from this islet there is a black rock
covered at high tide, with 10 fathoms close around ; it will be prudent
therefore, in passing this locality at high water when the rock is covered, to
keep about mid-channel between the Little Ladrone and Tong-ho island,
which lies 2^ miles to the northward. This is the only danger near the
Little Ladrone, excepting a high rock close to its N. W. side, having a depth
near it of 9 and 10 fathoms.

Potoe, or Passage Island, bearing N.N.W. i W. 5^ miles from the south-
west end of the Little Ladrone, is a flat sloping rock, visible about 9 miles.
There are 5 to 6 fathoms near it on all sides, but it ought not to be ap-
proached too close in light winds, as the eddies occasioned by the freshes
out of the river may render a vessel iinmanageable, and probably drift her
towards it, or Wong-mou, the adjacent island. The channel between it and
the S.E. point of Montanha is about 5 miles wide, and safe.

Wong-mou Island, lying 1^ mile E.N.E. of Potoe, is \\ mile long, North
and South, and has a peaked hill on its northern part ; at nearly half a mile
from its West side there are some rocks above water. Liungnib, lying a mile
eastward of Wong-mou, has a round islet off its South end.

About three-quarters of a mile N. W. from the North end of Liungnib lie
two rocks, which cover at springs, and break in blowing weather ; therefore,
in passing the North end of this island, keep at least a mile from it.

PU-TOI or Pak-leak Island lies N.E. by N. nearly 1^ mile from the
Great Ladrone, and on its N.E. point is a remarkable cone hill, 855 ft. high,
which is visible from Macao. The island is of irregular shape, and on its
Bouthern side the hills are much covered by black rocks. On its northern
side are some small bays in which fresh water may be procured ; and near
its N.E. point there is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen have a hut and
fishing stage. A rock, awash, lies close off its South extreme.

Clio Rock, on which H.M.S. Clio struck, 1 2th December, 1841, lies about
2 cables from the West side of Pak-leak, with the N.W. extreme of the
island bearing N. by W., distant 4 cables' lengths.

TONG-HO ISLAND, about 2| miles N. by E. h E. from the Little Ladrone,
is 1| mile long, East and West, and of moderate and unequal height. On
its N.E. side there is a small cove into which the ship Boddam, drawing 21^
feet water, wa.s taken by her pilot and remained in safety during a typhoon.
The cove is about 2 cables wide, with 24 leet water at the entrance, 1 7 and
18 ft. well inside, at low- water springs, and the bottom all soft mud. Here
a vessel may lie at anchor, or if she has none, be run into the mud without
risk. Being the chief rendezvous of the fishing boats in bad weather, or a
place of refuge from the pirates, it is protected by a fort on tlie N.W. point

956 THE COAST OF CHINA.

of entrance. Good water may be obtained at Boddam Cove, also beef, fish,
poultry, and some fruit.

Boddam Cove will not be readily distinguised until the vessel is within
about 2 miles of the N.E. part Tong-ho. Steering for the entrance, take
care to give a berth to a rock lying off the N.E. point of the island, and to a
sunken rock lying about H cable N.E. of the fort point ; when the head
of the cove bears S.W. by W., the vessel will be S,E. of the rock. Having
brought the cove fairly open on the above bearing, steer for the point on the
N.E. side of entrance, and pass it within the distance of half a cable j forthe
N.W. point, where the fort is built, is bordered by rocks.

Bouncer Rocks are two rocks close together, lying N.E. by N., two-thirds
of a cable from the S.E. entrance point of the cove ; the outer rock is awash
at low water.

Good water may be obtained at Boddam Cove, also beef, fish, poultry and
Bome fruit.

CHUK-WAN ISLANDS.— These two islands lie about E. by N. U mile
from Pak-leak, and the larger island, the eastern one, has a high rocky islet,
named Sharp Idand, lying off its S.E, point, and a small bay on its North
side. There are 14 fathoms water between Hoa-oek and the western island,
and II and 12 fathoms northward of the group.

RALEIGH ROCK, on which H.M.S. Raleigli struck, 14th April, 1857, is
a small pinnacle, which breaks, when there is a moderate sea, at low water
springs, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to. Its position is lat. 22° 2' N., long.
113° 47' E., nearly in mid-channel between Pak-leak and South White Rock,
distant 2J miles from the latter. When on the rock the gap in the centre of
South White Rock is in line with the right extreme of a small wedge-shaped
island off the eastern side of Lafsami Island bearing N.E. by N. \ the highest
part of Ai-chau Island E. |^ N. ; and the peak of the Great Ladrone is over
the western slope of Pak-leak S.S.W. \ W.

North, and South White Rocks are two high white rocks half a mile apart,
lying North about 3^^ miles from the western or small Chuk-wan island.
From the southern rock the N.E. point of the eastern Chuk-wan bears
S.S.W \ W., distant 4| miles. About a mile S.E. of the southern rock is a
small black rock, visible only at low springs, having 9 fathoms water close
around.

The White Rocks may be seen in fine weather in time to avoid them, and
the depth is about 9 fathoms near their eastern side, 8 fathoms on the
western and northern sides, and 9 fathoms in the channel, betweea them
and Chuk-wan ; but since the loss of the Raleigh by striking on the Raleigh
Rock, it will be prudent not to use this chnnnel until it has been more accu-
rately examined.

AI-CHAU ISLANDS lie N.E. by E. i E., 4 miles from the eastern Chuk-
wan, and the eastern or larger island is separated from the smaller one on its

CANTON EIVER. 957

"West side by a very narrow channel with 4 and 5 fathoms in it at low water.
Hill Islet, lying N.E. li mile from the northern part of the eastern Ai-
chau, has 11 and 12 fathoms water at a short distance from the rocks
ai'ound it.

The SAMOUN, or Three Gates, form a group of three small islands 2^
miles eastward of Ai-chau, aod extend about 3J miles in a N.W. and S.E^
direction, with narrow passages between them. Near the N.W. part of
the N.W. island, called Ilak-chcm, there are two peaked islets; and on the
northern side of the gi'oup, between the eastern and middle islands, there
is another high rocky islet, named Gauze with a bed of rocks lying south-
ward of it ; the South end of the eastern island is the highest part of the
group, ond forms a round mount. There is a small harbour on the S.W.
side of the largest island, which would afford shelter to two or three vessel*
during a N.E. gale. The anchorage is in 6 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom.

LINGTING ISLAND, bearing W. | N., distant 15 miles from the N.E.
head of the Lema Islands, is of rugged appearance, about 1£- mile long,
East and West, and rises to a peak near its centre. Two rocks, one awash
and the other above water, bearing N. by E. and S . by W. of each other, lie
eastward of the North point of the island ; the outer one, awash, is distant
nearly a mile E.N.E. from the Nurth point, and the otlier S. by W. about
half a mile from the North point, and the other S. by W. about half a mile
from the outer one, with depths near them of 1 3 fathoms, but foul ground
between.

The Needle Eocks, on which H.M.S. Doris struck in 1813, are two heads
lying within a few yards of each other, about H cable's length S.W. of the
low rocky N.W. extreme of Lingting, and they are so sharp that it is diflS.-
cult to keep the lead fixed on their points ; at low springs they have about
6 ft. water on them, at which time, with a swell, they may probably show
either breakers or a rippling. From the outer rock the S.W. extreme of the
Lema Islands is just shut in with the S.W. point of Lingting, and the highest
part of Lamma Island is a little way over the low N.W. point. A vessel
will avoid them when passing round the N.W. end of Lingting by not
approaching it within half a mile, or by keeping the S.W. extreme of the
Lema Islands a little open S.W. of Lingting.

The depths close to the North point of Lingting are 18 or 1 9 fathoms,
decreasing to 14 and 15 about a mile distant ; to the southward and west-
ward of the island there are 10, 11, and 12 fathoms over soft bottom.

When passing northward of Lingting at night, give its North side a berth
of 1? mile to avoid the rocks of its N.E. side.

TY-LO ISLAND is the southern of the range of small islands bounding
the East side of Macao Road. It is high near the western part, sloping a
little to the eastward, and lies N. ^ E. from the North end of Liungnib, from
which it is separated by a good channel 2| miles wide, but in using it take

958 THE COAST OF CHINA.

care to avoid the rocks off the northern point of the latter. Ty-lock, about
half a mile northward of Ty-lo, is a small rocky islet, with a large rock on
its summit.

Sam-Cock Island, or the Pyramid, the largest of the above range, and
lying U mile N.N.E. from Ty-lock, is of moderate height, rugged in appear-
ance, and in the form of a pyramid. Between it and Ty-lock there is a small
islet named Sy-loek, and two rocks above water ; but the channels between
these are so narrow, that they should not be attempted on account of the
strong eddies, which frequently render vessels unmanageable. On the
northern part of Sam-cock there is a small bay or cove for boats, and the
island affords fresh water.

Chxmg-chau-si, TTest Water Island, the northernmost of this range, lies
N.N.E. about 1^ mile from Sam-cock, and there is 7 fathoms water near it
to the eastward, and 5 and 6 fathoms to the northward and westward.

Four-feet Rock. — This small dangerous needle rook, with only 4 ft. on it
and 10 fathoms close around, lies E.S.E. 3 miles from Chung-chau-si, and
from it the summit of Ty-lo bears S.W. by W., the centre of Sam-cock W.
i 8., and the small islet lying off the N.W. end of Chung-chau N.N.E. i E.
"When Chuck-tu-aan Island (3 miles S.E. by S. from Chung-chau-si) and the
email islet off the N.W. end of Chung-chau are on the same bearing, about
N.N.E. h E. and S.S.W. I W., the rock will be between the two, but nearest
the former ; therefore if a vessel has occasion to enter Macao Road by this
channel, and keeps about three-quarters of a mile off Lafsami and the South
side of Chung-chau, she will pass in mid-channel, and have 10 or 12 fathoms
■water, decreasing to 7 fathoms as she nears Chung-chau-si.

CHXJNG-CHATJ, or Water Island, which with the islands southward of it
bound the S.W. side of Lantao Channel, lies about S.W. by W. 2J miles
from the S.W. point of Lantao, is high, and near its North point there is a
peaked hill. It is 11 mile long, N.W. and S.E., and there are no hidden
dangers near its northern side.

Nau-tau-mun, or Bullock's Head Gate, the next island to the S.E. is
small but high, and is separated from Chung-chau by a narrow channel
through which H.M.S. Doris ran, and found shoal water near Chung-chau.

LAF-SA-MI ISLAND, separated from Nau-tau-mun by a narrow channel,
is larger than either Chung-chau or Nau-tau-mun. It is inhabited on the
south-western side, where fresh water is to be had in a small bay. This
island from some views forms a peak ; and at a short distance eastward of its
South point there is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen have huts, and a
winch for heaving up their nets.

CHI-CHAU ISLAND, the largest of two islands lying 2J miles E.S.E.
of Laf-sa-mi, forms the South side of the East entrance of Lantao
Channel. The island is high, of round appearance, inhabited on the West
side, and separated by a narrow channel from the smaller and lower island,

CANTON RIVER. 959

on its western side ; a sunken rock lies off its N.E. point, and a patch of 4
fathoms about a quarter of a mile off its North point.

SOKO liSLAXDS. — A-chau, the southern of the two Soko Islands, is distant
nearly 4 miles S.E. f E. from the South point of Lantao, and forms the
North side of the eastern entrance of Lantao Channel. The South point of
A-chau is high, and rises very steep, having 7 fathoms water close to ; the
depths between it and Chi-chau are 11 to 13 fathoms, deepening suddenly to
25 or 30 fathoms in a hole or swatch close to Chi-chau.

The other island, lying a short distance northward of A-chau, is about a
mile long. East and West, and very narrow in the middle. A sand spit
extends nearly West upwards of IJ mile from its West side, and on the
West extreme of the spit there are 2f fathoms at low water, decreasing
quickly to 2 and 1^ fathoms towards the island. A rocky islet and two rocks
above water lie between the two Soko Islands ; there is also at nearly a mile
eastward of A-chau, a high rocky islet.

KYPONG ISLANDS are the southernmost group of the Archipelago
fronting the estuary of Canton River. Pak-tsim, the largest and north-eastern
island, bearing E. by S. 16 miles from the Great Ladrone, has near its
western extreme two high remarkable peaks, called the Asses Ears, which
make it easily known, as they rise from the same base almost perpendicu-
larly from the sea to the height of 980 ft., and sloping suddenly down on
the N.E. side, are united to a piece of moderately elevated land, which ter-
minates that part of the island. Tsi-mi-wan, the next island to the S.W. is
of considerable size, and separated from the S.W. point of Pak-tsim by a
channel about half a mile wide.

A range of islets extends 4J miles in a south-westerly direction from Tsi-
mi-wan ; the south-westernmost islet (90 feet high) called Gap Rock, but
Man-mi-chuu by the Chinese, has a small gap in it. Between the South end
of Tsi-mi-wan and Peaked Rock (180 feet high), the easternmost islet of the
range, there is a passage 1^ mile wide, with 18 fathoms least water in it.
A rugged rock, 50 ft. high, lies about IJ mile N.W. ^ W. from the South
end of Tsi-mi-wan. The passage, about half a mile wide, between Nut
Island and the islet nearest to it to the southward, has 10 to 26 fathoms
water. There is also, between Gap Rock and the other islets to the east-
ward, an opening a mile wide, with 16 to 18 fathoms water, and safe to pass
through with a steady wind.

Kwe-tau, or Tortoise Head, lying about three-quarters of a mile from the
East point of Pak-tsim, is a white rocky islet, having other rocks between it
and the point, neither of which ought to be approached. Gay-une is another
islet, rather more than a mile northward of the North end of Pak-tsim :
there is a passage between it and the latter, which, however, ought not to
be attempted unless from necessity; for there is said to exist some straggling
rocks on which the sea breaks at times.

960 THE COAST OF CHINA.

Cambridge Rock, on which a vessel of this name struck, August 30, 1820,
requires the greatest care to avoid when vessels are passing through the
Tai-ta-mi Channel between tbe westernmost of the Lema Islands and the
above rocks. The rock is of a spiral form with only 17 ft. water on it, and
sometimes breaks. It lies N. by W. i W. 2i miles from Kwei-tau, N.N.E.
^ E. 1| mile from the North point of Pak-tsim, and from it the highest part
of Chi-chau Island is in line with Hill Islet N.W., and the S.E. side of
Gay-une Islet is on with N.W. extreme of Eugged Eock, S.W. J W. There
are 4 and 5 fathoms on the rocks surrounding the spiral rock ; from thence
the depths increase to 23 fathoms in the Tai-ta-mi Channel, which is 2^
miles wide, and safe by borrowing towards the Lema Islands when passing
through.

LEMA ISLANDS consist of three large and one small island, extending in
an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction 12| miles. The easternmost and largest
island, named Tamkan, is 6 miles long and a mile broad, of moderate
height and undulating, and separated from Ye-chau, the middle island, by
the narrow Yat-moun Channel.

The Yat-moun Channel, by Capt. Bate's survey of 1850, is free of danger,
and carries a depth of 12 to 19 fathoms, but it is said that there is a sunken
rock in mid-channel, and that this passage should not be attempted unless
from necessity.

Ye-chau is the middle and highest of the Lema Islands, and when viewed
from most positions it appears flat on the top. Close to its N.E. part is a
small rocky islet, named Eound Island, visible when the Yat-moun Channel

is open.

Foun-tinj the third or southern of the large islands, is separated from Ye-
chau by the narrow Ye-chau Channel, with 19 to 30 fathoms water in it.
This island (1,210 ft. high) forms more in a peak than either of the other
two and has a point projecting westward with a hummock on it, named
E-chau Head. To the southward of this head lies Tai-ta-mi^ a small but
high island, with a narrow channel between it and Pountin. Tai-ta-mi
forms the N.E. boundary of the Tai-ta-mi Channel, which has Cambridge
Eock Pak-tsim Island, and the Kwei-tau Eocks bounding its S.W. side.

Directions. — The Lema Islands on their southern side are all steep and
rocky, not affording even a single bay for a boat to shelter in, and the
soundings are 22 or 23 fathoms about 1:^ mile from their coasts; on their
northern sides the depths are generally 15 or 16 fathoms close to the shore.
Vessels in the N.E. monsoon should endeavour to pass between the North
end of Tam-kan and Putoy, which lies 6 miles northward, and its North end,
when viewed from the E.N.E. , forms a small peaked hummock.

Notwithstanding the Lema Islands appear barren, tliere are a few men
residing on them, preparing charcoal from small quantities of brushwood
found between the rocks, which they send to Macao for sale. Eresh water

LAMM A ISLAND AND CHANNELS. 961

may be obtained along the North side of Tam-kan at several places ; and
close to the westward of its N.E. point, in a little cove, called Joss House
Bay, there is a Chinese place of worship, and about this part the Compra-
dore's boats await vessels after the end of August, when the easterly winds
set in. The Yat-moun and Ye-chau Channels should not be used unless ia
a case of emergency, or when the wind blows directly through, as they are
narrow, with deep water, and have generally a strong current sweeping
through them. Yat-moun is the widest, and of moderate depth, but if the
Cordelia Rock is in existence, it is very dangerous.

LAMMA ISLAND lies off the S.W. side of Hong Kong, and its S.W.
point bears N.W. by W. I W. 13 miles from the N.E. head of the Lema
Islands, and N.E. 5J miles from the North point of Lingting, The island is
of rocky appearance, about 4 miles long, North and South, and 2 miles wide.
The North end of the island is about a mile distant from the S.W. part of
Hong Kong, and over it Green Island light shows of a green colour.

From the North point of the long bay, on the West side of the island, the
shore trends N. ^ E. a mile to another point, off which, at half a mile from
the shore, are some sunken rocks. The S.E. point of the island is remark-
able from its being a small round hummock of bright green appearance on
the top, and rocky near the water's edge ; this part of the island, as far as
the eastern point, is rocky close to the shore, with 13 or 14 fathoms water
half a mile off.

The cove on the East side of the island, to the northward of its eastern
point, is about 1^ mile deep and two-thirds of a mile wide. It carries a depth
of 8 to 3J^ fathoms, and a vessel may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms water,
over rocky bottom, about half a mile within the entrance, and ride in
security, being land-locked. George Island, 234 ft. high, lies close to the
northward of the North point of the cove.

A rock awash at low water, with deep water around it, lies N. by W. j W.
about one cable from the rock whicb is above water near the N.W. point of
Lamma Island. The S.W. point of Lamma Island open of the West point,
bearing S. by E. ^ E., leads to the westward of this danger, and Tree Island
open of the North point of Lamma Island, bearing E. f N., leads to the
northward.

LAMMA CHANNELS. — East Lamma Channel, between Lamma Island
and Hong Kong, is about a mile wide, and has general depths in it of from
17 to 23 fathoms; but a vessel will find a good and sheltered anchorage
between George Island and the North point of Lamma in 7 or 8 fathoms.
There appear to be no dangers in this channel, but a rock (doubtful) is
said to lie off the S.E. point of Mas-kong or Eound Island, on the Hong
Kong shore.
The West Lamma Channel, between the western side of Lamma and the
I. A. 6 G

962 THE COAST OF CHINA.

islands lying oflF the East side Lantao, has general depths of 5 and 6 fa-
thoms on a mud bottom. Entering it from the East Lamma Channel, the
soundings will decrease rapidly to 7 and 6 fathoms after rounding the North
point of Lamma, off which, at one-third of a mile to the N.N.E., is a rocky
patch of 8 fathoms, surrounded by depths of 14 to 21 fathoms.

Water. — About a mile N.E. of the North point of Lamma Island, and
near the western point of a deep cove, named Aberdeen or Shehpywan Har-
hour, on the Hong Kong shore, there is a cascade of good water conveniently
obtained.

CHUNG ISLAND is near the S.E. side of Lantao, N. J W. 5 miles from
Lingting. Its North and South parts are high, but it is narrowed near the
middle, which is low, by two bays, one on the East, the other on the West
Bide of the island. A vessel of moderate draught will find good shelter
during an easterly gale, in the western bay, in 31 fathoms. There is no
danger in passing the South end of the island, the depths being 7 and 8
fathoms close-to, and 5 and 6 fathoms near the south-western part ; but East,
about 3 cables from the eastern point of the island, is a small rock, which
dries at low water, and has 6 and 7 fathoms close-to. Capsingmoon Pas-
sage, between Chung Island and Lantao, with the dangerous Passage Rock,
is described hereafter.

To the northward of Chung, and at a short distance from Lantao, there
are several small islands and rocks above water ; but the channels between
them and the Lantao shore are narrow, shoal, and unfit for large vessels.
Fresh water can be procured in the bay on the western side of Chung.

The PTJ-TOY GROUP, lying off the South end of Hong Kong, bounds the
northern side of the Lema Channel. Pu-toy, the southern island of the
group, bears N.N.W. \ W. 6 miles from the N.E. head of the Lema Islands.
It is of moderate height, the appearance in general barren, there being only
a small quantity of brushwood in the valleys. On its western side there is a
cove for boats, and a small rocky islet.*

Lo-chau or Beaufort Island, lying northward of Pu-toy, and separated from
it by a narrow channel, is high, flattened at the top, and steep all around ;
about its north-western brow there is a small peak, with a few large and
remarkable rocks on it. At half a mile off its S.W. side are some large
rocks above water, having no hidden dangers near them. Sun-kong, about
1^ mile East of Lo-chau, is a small but high island, rising in a peak, 466
leet high, towards the centre ; near its north-western part there are some

• Corn. C. M. Buckle, R.N., who cruised for some days about the islands southward of
Hong Kong in H.M.S. Cormorant, 1865, remarks that there are a number of small rocks
amongst them, some above and some below low-water mark, which, owing to the small-
ness of the scale of the chart do not appear.

HONG KONG. 963

rocki considerably above water. Wag-Ian, about three-quarters of a mila
East of Sun-kong, is a small barren rocky islet, the easternmost of this group,
having 16 and 17 fathoms water at a short distance to the eastward.

HONG KONG.

HONG KONG ISLAND {Eeang Keang, the Island of Fragrant Streams),
80 called from the numerous water courses on its sides, is about 9 miles long,
N.W. by W. and S.E. by E., 2 to bh miles broad, and with an area of about
29 square miles. It lies between Lamma Island and the main, from which it
separated by a narrow channel a quarter of a mile wide, named Lyemun
Pass. The appearance of the island is somewhat picturesque, but on the
whole it is generally barren and unprepossessing. Victoria Peak, 1,825 feet
high, in the N.W. part of the island, serves as a signal station.

Three important lighthouses have been recently established. The two on
the eastern end of Hong Kong Island are described hereafter.

Green Island Lighthouse, first illuminated in July, 1875, is a round white
tower, 20 ft. high, and stands on an island lying off the N.W. end of Hong
Kong Island. The light infixed, elevated 95 ft, above the level of the sea,
and visible 14 miles off. It shows red to the westward between N. by W. ^ W.
and S. by W. ^ W., green to the northward between N. by W. ^ W. (indi-
cating the western edge of Kellet Bank) and N.N.E. \ E., and also green to
the south-eastward between S. by W. J W. and S.E. To the eastward the
light is obscured by the island.

HONG KONG, 3 miles in extent, is on the North side of Hong Kong Island.
For some years, owing to the excessive heat of the city, a site was occupied
as a sanatorium at Kowloon, on the northern shore of Victoria Harbour. By
the treaty of Tientsin this was ceded to Britain, and the tract, about 5 square
miles, has been laid out for villa residences.

In the year 1841, when the island became a British possession by the
treaty of Canton, the population numbered only 5,000 ; in 1876 it was esti-
mated at 122,000. In 1865, of the 125,504 inhabitants, 2,034 were European
and American, and the remainder all or nearly all Chinese.

Hong Kong being a free port, it is impossible to give any statistics of its
trade. It may be looked upon chiefly as a depot, only a small quantity of
the goods imported being consumed upon the island, the greater portion
being re-exported to other ports. Amongst the articles principally dealt in,
may be enumerated — opium, sugar, flour, cotton, rice, tea, cotton and woollen
goods, silks, oil, salt, provisions, &c., besides which there is an export of
granite, almost the only article produced in the colony.

The trade with the Australasian colonies has much improved smce the

964 THE COAST OF CHINA.

steamers of the Eastern and Australian Mail Steamship Company have
regularly established their line, and these have been largely supplemented
by occasional vessels leaving this for Cooktown in the northern extreme of
Queensland. Of the 3,562,774 tons of shipping entered during the year
1875, 45.2 per cent, arrived in junks, 43.7 percent, in steamers, and 11.1
per cent, in European and American-built sailing vessels.

Climate, &c. — Hong Kong lies just within the tropic, and is subject to an
excessively hot and a somewhat cool season, coinciding with the S.W. and
N.E. monsoons ; it has also a dry and a rainy season. July and August Are
the hottest months, the temperature ranging from 80° to 94°, with a difference
of 10° between day and night. The city being situate on the North side of
the island under the peak, is completely sheltered from the influence of the
S.W. monsoon, which, on the southern side of the island, agreeably tempers
the violent heat. November to January is the coolest period, and the air i*
often bracing ; the temperature occasionally falls below 40°, and ice has been
known on the peak, but this is rare ; sudden changes frequently take place,
a day of almost tropical heat being followed by a cutting northerly wind, for
when calms and variables prevail, it is hot even in winter, and it requires the
N.E. wind and overcast sky to reduce the temperature, and gales from the
latter quarter are common in the autumn and spring months, blowing for
two or three days. March and April are rainy and foggy, and the damp is
80 penetrating that the greatest care is required to prevent clothes, books,
instruments, stores, &c., from being destroyed or injured by mildew. Ty-
phoons seldom occur before June or July, for they advance northward as the
season progresses, and may be expected most severe at Hong Kong about
the autumnal equinox.

The wet season commences in May, and continues until the beginning of
August, and during this period the rain falls almost without intermission,
frequently causing floods which do great damage.

Although visited by sickness caused by malaria, it has been shown by
Btatistics that ior salubrity Hong Kong may compare favourably with most
of the ports of the East, and its healthiness has been greatly increased of
late years by its sanitary arrangements and excellent water supply. The
annual rate of mortality amongst the foreign residents between 1858 and
1865 was about 6^ per cent., ranging in various years between 2 and 8 per
cent. The most unhealthy years have been those most deficient in rainfall.
Dysentery and intermittent fever are not uncommon, and the bilious remit-
tent fever, sometimes so nearly allied to yellow fever, occurs in the summer
season, small-pox prevailing in January, February, and March. Neglect of
the usual conditions of health, such as exercise, diet, proper clothing, and
the like, conduce to, and exposure to the rays of the sun, even in winter,
almost invariably results in, sickness.

The Harbour consists of the space enclosed between the northern shore of

HONG KONG. 965

the island and the mainland immediately opposite. It is only exposed to the
force of strong westerly gales, and their effect is mitigated by the large
number of outlying islands, so that altogether it may be deemed one of the
safest in the world. Eastward of the harbour the peninsula of Kowloon
forms an inner harbour which is nearly landlocked, and which affords pro-
tection to vessels in all weathers, but the situation is not a convenient one.
On the approach of a typhoon the native craft almost invariably seek shelter
over towards the northern side of the harbour. The anchorage is most com-
modious, and is enteied from the sea by fine deep-water cha nels both from
the eastward and westward. The depth of water varies from 3 to 8 fathoms,
deepening to 11 fathoms off Kowloon Point.

There are port regulations for the berthing of vessels under the superin-
tendence of the harbour-master. The anchorage for the merchant shipping
is abreast the centre and lower parts of the city, on either side a fairway
channel, marked by buoys ; that for the men-of-war lies eastward, between
the Government establishments and Kowloon, the Cathedral roughly indi-
cating the dividing limit.

Supplies of every kind can be obtained in abundance, and there is a well-
regulated market. Excellent water from the well-constructed water- works
is efficiently supplied to the city and shipping. Every appliance necessary
for refit and for the repairs of ships, and steam machinery will be found at
the dock establishments, stores, &c. ; and there is a good hospital for seamen,
and a well-conducted sailors' home.

Docks. — There are two large granite docks at Aberdeen or Shekpywan
Harbour, a narrow inlet formed between the S.W. shore of Hong Kong,
and a small island off it named Aberdeen or Tapliohau. They lie on the
Hong Kong shore of the harbour, and one of them is capable of receiving
the largest class of vessels drawing 24 ft. There is also a dock at Kowloon,
and a patent slip at East point. The dock charges are very high, owing to
want of competition, and therefore many prefer to have their vessels docked
at Whampoa in the Canton River, where thw charges are more moderate.*

The dimensions of the Aberdeen Docks, belonging to the Hong Kong and
Whampoa Dock Company, are as follows : —

Dock No. 1.— Length over all, 330 ft. ; length on blocks, 308 ft. ; breadth
over all, 80 ft. ; breadth at bottom, 42 ft. ; width of caisson gate, 60 ft. ;
depth over sill at spring tides, 18^ ft. ; depth over sill at neap tides, 16 ft.

Dock No. 2.— Length over all, 400 ft. ; breadth over all, 90 ft. ; width of
caisson gate, 70 ft. ; depth over sill at spring tides, 24 ft. ; depth over sill at
neap tides, 21^ ft.

* A rock breaks at low water about 50 yards to the westward of the North point of Aber-
deen Bay. There is alao another rock a little more than half that distance oflf a point to the
South of it, on which a vessel was lost.

966 THE COAST OF CHINA.

The above are the extreme depths for which credit is claimed, but the
level is much influenced by the wind at all times, and from October to
January inclusive, the average height is about 1 i ft. greater at springs than
during the remainder of the year.

A steam-tug, of 100 horse-power nominal, is always in readiness to tow
sailing vessels round from Hong Kong free of charge, and will take them
back or to sea at reduced rates. The work-shops on the premises possess
every appliance necessary for the repairs of ships and steam machinery.
There are also powerful lifting-shears on the jetty, alongside which vessels
can lie in 24 ft. water, and take in or out boilers, masts, &c.

The Union Dock Company has also a dock at Kowloon, which, being
•within the harbour is of immense advantage to vessels which may reach
port in such a state as to require instant docking. Its dimensions are : —
Length over all, 300 ft. ; breadth of entrance, 80 ft. ; and depth over sill at
ordinary spring tides, 21 ft.

The patent slip at East Point, on the northern shore of Hong Kong, is
said to be capable of taking vessels of 1,000 tons.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Hong Kong Eoad, at lO*" 15",
and springs rise about 4| ft. Around the island the tides are irregular,
flowing and ebbing without any apparent change of direction at the surface,
and at neaps there sometimes appears to be only one tide in 24 hours. In
the harbour the tidal streams are regular.

At Hong Kong, during the summer months, the highest tide is three days
after, in winter three days before the full and change. In September,
October, and November, and the three corresponding spring months, March,
April, and May, the highest water is at the latter end of the quarter. In
March the tide is very low. At all seasons of the year the tides are most
irregular off the mouth of the Canton River. It so occurs that the night tides
are the higher, and consequently stronger, during the N.E. monsoon, and
similarly the day tides in the S.W. monsoon. The rise from low water at
Hong Kong is 7^ ft., except in strong East and S.E. winds. A tide of lO-fl.
rise at Canton or Whampoa is generally owing to a freshet or a strong
southerly wind.

Directions. — Hong Kong Eoad is generally approached by sailing vessels
from the westward, which side is protected by Green Island and Kellett
Bank, the latter extending nearly 1| mile northward from the island, with
an even depth of 3J fathoms. It may also be approached from the eastward
through the Lyemun Pass during the N.E. monsoon, but the winds are
generally baffling under the high land, for which reason it is not generally
used by sailing vessels.

When abreast Green Island, if the vessel be of heavy draught, keep the
peak of Lamma Island (Mount Senhouse, 1,140 ft. high) open westward of
Green Island S. | E. until Devil's Peak (on the mainland near Lyemun Pass)

HONG KONG ISLAND. 967

is in line with the White Rock on the South point of Won-chu-chau or
Stone-cutters Island, when a S.E. by E. course will lead northward of Kel-
lett Bank, and direct for the anchorage.

Vessels of proper draught can proceed over Kellett Bank, on which the
least water is 20 ft , or through the 4-fathom channel between Green Island
and the South part of the bank, by passing about 1^ cable northward of the
island, and then steering for the road.

The narrow channel between Green Island and Hong Kong is sometimes
used by steamers, also by sailing vessels when a fresh fair wind, blows right
through. It has depths of 10 to 12 fathoms in the middle, shoaling to 8, 6,
and 4^ fathoms after passing the small islet eastward of Green Island.

TYTAM BAY. — There are several small bays on the southern shore of
Hong Kong, all of which are safe for small vessels ; but at the S.E. part of
the island is a deep inlet, named Tytam Bay, 2^ miles deep, \^ mile wide at
entrance, free from danger, and carries a depth of 10 to 6 fathoms. Tytam
Head, the western point of entrance, is a high bluflf, with. 13 and 14 fathoms
near it ; from thence the western shore of the bay trends about N. by E.
three-quarters of a mile to a small sandy bay, with a rocky islet fronting the
beach. About half a mile northward of the islet the land forms a round pro-
jecting point, and northward of this point is a larger bay, with a sandy beach,
in which is Tytam village.

Tylong Sead, or Cape d^Agutlar, off which are two green islets, forms the
eastern point of entrance to Tytam Bay, and from thence the eastern shore of
the bay bends round to the northward for 2 miles, and terminates in a small
inlet, called Tytam Harbour, carrying 4 to 6 fathoms, but its head, to the
N.W., is shoal and rocky. This bay would be useful to a vessel, with the
probability of a dark and tempestuous night, for by running in she will at
any rate be snug, even if there should be a typhoon during the night. Water
may be obtained at Tytam village on the western side of the bay.

There is very little tide in Tytam Bay, but the rise and fall is about 7 or 8
feet at springs, and about 3 or 4 ft. at neaps. The ebb sets to the eastward
between Lo-chau and Hong Kong.

Directions.— If bound to Tytam Bay from the eastward, the route may
either be taken to the northward of Wag-Ian, Sun-kong, and Lo-chau,
through the Shingshimun Pass, or to the southward of these islands through
the Lema Channel ; then round Castle Eock to the westward of Lo-chau.
but the northern passage is preferable, for after opening the bay a vessel
may havd to the northward in any convenient berth ; whereas, by taking the
southern route, if the wind be northerly, she will have to turn in.

Cape d^Aguilar Lighthouse is described hereafter.

LANTAO, or Ty-ho, the large high island lying westward of Hong Kong,
is 14 miles long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and its greatest breadth is

968 THE COAST OF CHINA.

5i miles. About the centre of the island the land is very high, making in
peaks, the highest and westernmost of which rises 3,050 ft. above the sea.

West Coast— Close to the western shcre of Lantao, at 1^ mile from the
South point, there is a peaked hill, which at high water is insulated. From
this hill to the point a mud flat extends about a third of a mile off shore,
with only 2 fathoms water on it.

About 1^ mile N.N.W. of the peaked hill, and three-quarters of a mile
from the nearest shore, there is a rock above water, having near it a depth
of 15 fathoms, and between it and the shf)re 7 fathoms, decreasing quickly
towards the latter. N.E. by N. 1^ mile from this rock is a bluff point, and
eastward of the latter a bay, in which is the village of Ty-ho.

North Coast.— On the northern side of Lantao are two projecting points,
three-quarters of a mile apart, between which is the bay and village Sah-lo-
ivunq ; and directly fronting the eastern point of the bay and about a quarter
of a mile distant is a small islet, having a rock awash off its N.W. side.
Between this islet and Saw-chau, 2^ miles to the northward, the depth is too
small for a vessel of large draught at low water. Immediately eastward of
the above small islet, between it and Chu-lu-cock Island, is another bay iu
.which is Tung-chung village. Red Pointy the N.E. extreme of Chu-lu-cock,
has a remarkable rocky appearance, and is frequented by a company of stone-
cutters, who cut the granite rocks into slabs for building. The South point
of this island is so near to the Lantao shore, that in passing it is difficult to
distinguish it to be an island. In Tung-chung Bay the water is shoal.

About li mile E.N.E. of Eed Point lies a small green island 230 ft. high,
and three-quarters of a mile further in the same direction another small
island, 200 ft. high, which are the Brothers of Dalrymple, or Motoe of the
Chinese. A rock, 30 ft. above water, lies about half a mile southward of the
East Brother, and about 1^ mile off the Lantao shore. A small reef borders
the western and northern ends of the West Brother. From the East Brother
the N.E. part of Lantao bears E. by N. 4 miles.

South Coast. — The southern coast of Lantao forms two large but shoal
bays. The larger and eastern bay, to the north-eastward of the Soko Islands,
has in it a small islet and some rocks above water, and a populous village at
its head. Here H.M.S. Cormorant rode out an easterly gale, in September,
1865, which lasted 48 hours. The anchorage was much exposed, but the
holding ground was good, hard, stiff mud, mixed with sand and shells. The
western bay is less capacious than the other, and carries a depth of 2 to 5
fathoms.

Off the East entrance point of the eastern of the above bays, and separated
from it by a narrow channel, is a high green island named Patung, and close
to its West side are some rocks above water. A small vessel will find good
anchorage westward of these rocks, with them bearing about S. by E., three-
■quarters of a mile distant.

CANTON RIVER. 969

CAP-SING-MUN PASSAGE, or Throat Gates, formed between the North
point of Lantao and the main, is separated into two channels by Mah-wan
Island. The channel on the West side of Mah-wan is generally used by
steam-vessels, but it is narrow with dangerous eddies ; the channel southward
of that island should be used by sailing vessels, as it is wider, with good
anchorage, a regular tide, and the advantage in the'N.E. monsoon of being
to windward.

Bunsansiah or Passage Rock, in the southern entrance of the Capsingmun
Passage, is a pinnacle rock awash at low water, having depths of 8 to 10
fathoms close around it. From its centre, Chunghue Rock is in line with
the South extreme of Chunghue Island, bearing E. by N., and the East ex-
treme of Cowechau Island is in line with the West extreme of Lamma Island,
S. by E. f E.

A sailing vessel proceeding through the Cap-sing-mun Passage from the
westward, should keep close over to the mainland to avoid a reef, extending
a third of a mile from the N.E. point of Mah-wan ; then steer in mid-
channel between that island and Chung-hue Island, which lies a mile to the
eastward, and after rounding the South end of the latter, if bound for
Hong Kong Road, steer for the West end of Won-chu-chau or Stone-
cutters Islands.

SAW-CHAU, lying 3 miles northward of Lantao, and S.E. 4^ miles from
Lintin, is a small narrow island nearly a mile long, with a sharp hummock
on its North end. About 1 mile northward of it is Tong-ku Island, higher
and more rocky in appearance ; and S.W. by S. from the South point of
Tong-ku, and W. by N. from the North point of Saw-chau there are two
rocks above water, about a mile distant from each island ; the western is
named White Roch from its white appearance.

URMSTON BAY, or Tong-ku Harbour, bounded by the islands Tong-ku
and Saw-chaw to the West, and Castle Peak land to the East, is a safe an-
chorage, and tolerably sheltered from all winds. The best berth is in about
8 or 9 fathoms, with Tong-ku Peak just open of the South end of Lintin,
and nearer to the main land than to Tong-ku. This safe bay or harbour
was named Urmston by the captains of the fleet, who anchored there in
August and September, 1823, at the recommendation of Sir James Brabazon
Urmston, President of the Company's factory at Canton during the discussion
with the Chinese relative to the affair of the Topaze frigate in 1821 — 22, at
Lintin ; the anchorage was found secure, with smooth water when it blew a
gale from the eastward. Fresh water was procured in abundance.

Directions. — The approach to Urmston Bay for vessels of large draught is
between the East side of the spit extending from the South side of Lintin and
the islands Saw-chau and Tong-ku, and then northward of Tong-ku, the

I. A 6 H

970 THE COAST OF CHINA.

depth there being 7 and 8 fathoms. The passage south-ward of Saw-chau
has only 3 J fathoms, and that between Saw-chau and Tong-ku 2^ fathoms.

The channel between White Eock and the East side of Lintin Spit is about
2 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing towards the spit to 5 fathoms.
Working northward, do not stand so far West as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to
bring the East side of Lintin northward of N. by W. With the South end
of Sau-chaw bearing E.N.E., and Lintin Peak North, a vessel will be on the
southern edge of the spit in 4f or 5 fathoms, sand and mud.

LINTIN ISLAND, lying W.N.W. of Urmston Bay, is about 7 miles in
circumference, and its summit terminates in a high conical peak. A spit of
sand extends about 4J miles southward from the South side of the island,
having 3^ fathoms water on its outer part, but only 9 ft. within 2f miles
of the island, and rather less in some places. The spit is steep-to on the
West side, with 10 fathoms near it, 7 fathoms touching its edge, then 3
fathoms ; and on the East side the water suddenly deepens from 3 to 7 or 8
fathoms. When within 5 miles of the island, if the vessel is of large
draught, do not, when standing eastward towards the spit, bring the West
end of Lintin, westward of N. f W., or tack immediately after deepening to
9 or 10 fathoms ; but in the night do not deepen to above 7 or at most 8
fathoms.

A sandbank also extends 13^ miles in a N.N.W. direction from the North
side of Lintin, and on its northern part is a narrow ridge called Lintin Bar,
the southern end of which, in 2^ fathoms, bears W. by N. f N. from
Ean-si-ak Islet, and N.N.W. J W. about 6| miles from Lintin Peak. The
least water on the bar is 12 ft., and its northern end, in 2^ fathoms, lies
N.W. by N. lOi miles from Fan-si-ak, with Sam-pan-chau just open westward
of the West extreme of Anung-hoy Island.

The anchorage off Lintin is about 1^ mile from the sandy beach on its
S.W. side, in 10 or 12 fathoms ; under 10 fathoms the water shoals quickly
towards the island.

Water. — Fresh water may be obtained at the eastern extremity of the
beach on the South side of Lintin ; at times a few bullocks and vegetables
may be procured from the inhabitants of the village.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the anchorage off Lintin, at
noon, and springs rise 7 or 8 feet. The streams run nearly North and
South, and the ebb in the freshes sometimes 5 J or 6 knots per hour. In
the N.E. monsoon the neaps are very irregular, sometimes only one flood
perceptible during 24 hours with a small rise when the other flood should
prevail.

FAN-SI-AK ISLET.— Two rocky islets, the easternmost of which is the
largest, and called Fan-si-ak, and the other White Eock, lie North 4J miles
from the peak of Lintin. When these islets are in one, E. by S. f S., the
southern extremity of Lintin Bar is on the same bearing. The East side of

LANKEET FLAT-SAM-PAN-CHAU. 971

the channel between the South extremity of the bar and Lintin is bounded
by sand-banks, with irregular soundings of 2h and 3h fathoms on them at
low water.

LANKEET FLAT, extending from the North end of Lintin Bar, across the
channel to the shoal mud bank on the "West side, and N.W. towards Lankeet
Island, consists of sand and mud, with hard bottom in some places. The
depths on it are 3 and 3 J fathoms at low water, and 4|- to 4 J fathoms at high
water springs ; a vessel therefore drawing more than 20 {t. should not pass
over it until about half flood. Close to the northward of this flat there are
generally some fishing stakes, and boats fastened to them, and there are
others between Lintin and Lankeet. Care should be taken not to run over
the boats, which generally show lights in the night.

LANKEET ISLAND, bearing N.N.W. ^ W, 19 miles from Lintin Peak,
is formed of two hills, sloping into a low point at the "West end, where there
is a well of fresh water by a small temple close to some trees ; the island at
this part is covered with earthen vessels containing human bones. A spit
or flat extends S.E. by S. 2^ miles from its South side, with only 2 and 2^
fathoms over it at low water. Between this spit and a long narrow sand to
the westward is the Lankeet entrance of the western channels.

To proceed up this entrance to an anchorage in Lankeet Eoad, keep the
highest peak of Ty-cock-tau just open of the outermost of the rocks project-
ing oS" the West end of Lankeet N.W. f N. ; with this mark on, a vessel
will have 4| or 5 fathoms at high water, about 4 miles from Lankeet ; and
will carry the same depth till nearly abreast the West end of the island,
where she will have about 6 fathoms in Lankeet Road. This is a convenient
place for a vepsel to moor when circumstances require her stores or sick to be
landed. All the space between Lankeet and Ty-cock-tau is shoal.

SAM-PAN-CHAXT, or Boat Islet, bearing N. by E. J E. U mile from the
East end of Lankeet, is small, of middling height, resembling a boat turned
bottom upwards, and is the best guide for crossing over Lankeet flat, between
the northern part of Lintin Bar and Lankeet. An extensive rocky bank,
partly above water, projects N.W. from it, and joins the shoal bank extend-
ing from Lankeet to Ty-cock-tau. There are regular depths of 7, 8, and 9
fathoms to the eastward of Sam-pan-chau.

DIRECTIONS to CANTON RIVER. -The Lema Channel, formed by
the Lema Islands on the South, and the Pu-toy group on the Nurth, is about
6 miles wide, and safe to navigate, with regular depths of 17 to 19 fathoms,
and soft bottom. This channel should, if possible, be always adopted by
sailing vessels bound to Kong or Canton River in the N.E. monsoon, to
efi'ect which they ought to make the N.E. head uf the Le: a Islands, bearing
to the westward. If the weather be thick, and the wind blows strong «t
East or S.E., it may be prudent to heave-to, when land cannot be discerned
above 3 or 4 miles. The depths are 19 to 21 fathoms, close to the head, and

972 THE COAST OF CHINA.

about 18 fathoms at the entrance of the channel. If the weather will not
permit the vessel to enter the channel, do not shoal under 25 or 26 fathoms,
as in these depths she will drift clear outside all the islands.

If, however, the vessel should happen to be near the entrance of the Lema
Channel in the evening, and a typhoon is expected, she should run imme-
diately for Tytam Bay (on the South side of Hong Kong), or for the Tathong
Channel, or the East Lamma Channel, as may be most convenient ; in either
of which she will be secured from the tempest, if an anchorage is gained
before night.

During S.W. or westerly winds it will sometimes be found difficult to turn
through the Lema Channel from the eastward, as there is generally a set
from West to East, occasioned by the ebb coming from the westward out of
the numerous channels, and the flood from the S.W. ; with a strong S.W.
wind the stream runs about Ig knot per hour to the eastward, only slacking
a little when it ought to change its direction. Pu-toy Island may be ap-
proached with safety to a quarter of a mile, and the whole North side of the
Lema Islands to half a mile.

Through LANTAO CHANNEL. — From about a mile southward of Pu-toy
a West course for 19 miles will lead to the entrance of Lantao Channel,
passing northward of Lingting and southward of Lamma, the depths de-
creasing from 17 fathoms ofi" Pu-toy to 12 and 13 fathoms after passing
Lingting, and to 7 and 8 fathoms as the channel is approached ; there are 12
fathoms in the middle of the entrance, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms towards
A-chau. Lingting, which is of considerable height, and terminates at the
summit in a conical peak, may be passed on either side as the wind requires.
If passing southward, give a wide berth to the sunken rocks off its N.W.
point ; and to those off its N.E. point if passing northward ; but thg channel
northward of this island is preferable, for in daylight it has no hidden
danger, and a vessel may work from side to side. In the night give the
North side of the island a berth of 1^ mile to avoid the two small rocks off
its N.E. point.

Chi-chau, when seen from the eastward, has a remarkable appearance,
and is a good guide ; it makes like a high, round, detached island with dis-
tant rugged land westward of it, which are the islands of Lafsami and
Chung-chau. Having entered the Lantao Channel, the course through is
N.W. by W., and the depths will be variable, not under 8 or 9 fathoms, nor
above 25 fathoms. The ebb tide runs through in strong eddies, particularly
in July or August, when its rate is sometimes 4^ knots per hour on the
springs. With a light wind at times, it is difficult to manage a vessel here-
about. On some occasions two or three boats, assisted by the sails, have
been baffled in their attempts to tow the vessel's head round. After passing
between Chi-chau and A-chau, the water will deepen from 10 to 17 fathoms
in mid-channel near the islands which front the S.W. point of Lantao, and

DIEEOTIONS-OANTON RIVER. 973

there are 7 fathoms close to the point. Having rounded the point at a mo-
derate distance, steer to the northward for Lintin, or to the westward for
Macao Road, as circumstances require ; in the latter case the depths will
gradually decrease to 5J or 5 fathoms.

In turning through the Lantao Channel, when standing northward, do not
shoal under 7 fathoms in a vessel of large draught, nor pass the line of bear-
ing between the South points of Lantao and A-chau. Between the northern
Soko Island and the Lantao shore there is a good channel, 1 mile wide,
which may be taken by a vessel when blowing fresh from the northward.
In this case, after passing the South point of Patung, a small rocky islet
will be seen in the bay on the southern shore of Lantao ; steer to the north-
westward until this islet is shut in behind the western point of the bay,
when keep towards the South point of Lantao, and the depth will be 4^
fathoms, muddy bottom, between the point of the sandy spit and the Lantao
shore.

From the small islet oflP the North side of Chung-chau, Lintin Peak bears
N. ^ E. 13 miles ; the sand spit extending off the South side of Lintin is on
the latter bearing, therefore a vessel will clear it if this islet is kept S. by E.
until Lintin Peak bears N. by E., then steer for the West point of Lintin.
In a dark night a N.N.W. or N.W. by N. course (according to the tide)
should be steered from the middle of the Lintao Channel until the water
shoals to 6 fathoms, then steer North, keeping a good lookout for the fishing
stakes. On this latter course, if the water deepens above 7 fathoms, keep a
little westerly until the vessel is near or above Lintin, where she can anchor.
By not deepening above 7 fathoms, she will not be too near Lintin sand spit,
there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to. The ebb tide, from the West end of
Lintin to the eastward, sets South ; but over on the western shore its di-
rection is S.E.

Through TAI-TA-MI CHANNEL. —Proceeding towards the river through
the Tai-ta-mi Channel, between the Lema and Kypong Islands, after clear-
ing Cambridge Rock, steer northward for Linting, passing between it and
the Samoun group, and then proceed through the Lantao Channel ; or pass
between the Samoun group and Ai-chau, and then steer for the Lantao
Channel or to the N.W. direct for Lafsami. Having approached Lafsami,
keep within a mile of its western side, and of the South part of Chung-chau,
to avoid the 4-ft. needle rock ; after passing Chung-chau steer for Lintin or
for Macao Road.

If the channel be taken between the Great Ladrone and Gap Rock, or the
narrow passage between the latter and the Kypong Islands, steer to north-
ward, and proceed along the West sides of Ai-chau and Lafsami. Or if
bound for Macao Road, there is a more direct passage about a mile wide,
with 13 fathoms water, between Pak-leak and Chuk-wan, then on the North
sides of Tong-ho and Liungnib, and to the southward of Ty-lo, which tracks

974 THE COAST OF CHINA.

lie nearly in a direct line towards the road. Although this channel is safe
in the daytime, great care must be taken to avoid the Ealeigh Eock. There
is a safe passage between the Great Ladrone and Pak-leak, with 14 to 9 fa-
thoms water, but recollect the sunken rock lying half a mile from the North
side of the Little Ladrone, and also the Clio Eock ; a vessel taking this route
should pass southward of Potoe.

Through GREAT WEST CHANNEL.— This channel, on the West side of
the Ladrone Islands, is generally used by vessels bound to Canton during
the strength of the S.W. monsoon, and to do this they endeavour to fall in
with the Great Ladrone bearing about North, or N. by E. ; but late in the
season when the winds incline to the eastward, or at any other time when
they are expected to come from the northward or eastward, it will be pru-
dent for a sailing vessel to make the N.E. head of the Lema Islands, and
proceed towards the river by the Lama and Lantao channels. Here the
risk of being horsed to the westward by the freshes setting out of the Great
West Channel is avoided, and a northerly wind will lead to an anchorage
in the river. When typhoons happen on the coast, they generally com-
mence in a moderate gale from the northward, which is a leading wind for
these channels, and as the wind commonly veers to the eastward before it
blows hard, a vessel with the first of the gale may get well up the river
above Lintin, where these storms are less violent than outside among the
islands.

As the approach to the Canton estuary is probably more safe than that of
any other large river in the world, there being no sandbanks at the entrance,
and the channels amongst the islands outside being mostly all free from hid-
den danger, a stranger should not hesitate to push through the nearest con-
venient channel without a pilot, if the weather is tolerably clear. But the
streams must be attended to, as they set in difiPerent directions amongst the
islands to the south-eastward according to the prevailing winds ; a strong
easterly wind generally producing a westerly current or tide, which abates
in strength when the ebb should be setting to the S.E. If an outside pilot
can be obtained at a moderate rate he may be useful to run the vessel into
some cove or place of shelter, if a storm should be approaching, or if she be
in a disabled state. Macao Euad should not be used if there is an appear-
ance of bad weather, but run well up the river above Lintin.

About South 30 miles from the Great Ladrone, the depths increase to 27
or '28 fathoms ; about 60 miles from it, to 42 and 44 fathoms; and sound-
ings extend on the same meridian to about lat. 20" N. ; from hence they con-
tinue westward towards Hainan Head ; but converge towards the land, with
deeper water eastward of the meridian of the Ladrone Islands A vessel
falling in with the land in thick weather may easily distinguish whether it
be that of the islands eastward of the Great Ladrone ; for the Kypong and
Lema Islands have soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms close to ; whereas the

DIEEOTIONS— CANTON EIVER. 975

islands between the Great Ladrone and St. John to the westward have only
10 and 11 fathoms at a considerable distance outside. These are also large
and of regular appearance, resembling a coast more than islands ; but those
to the eastward are detached, high, and uneven, excepting Tam-kan, the
largest of the Lema Islands, which is long and of an undulating form.

The freshes out of Canton Eiver set almost constantly from the South end
of Montanha, along the shores of the islands to the westward, at the rate of
1 to 2 knots an hour, particularly with strong easterly winds ; and although
at times there seems to be on the surface a flood tide setting eastward, or
into the entranoe of the river, the freshes underneath continue to run west-
ward, by which sailing vessels are rendered ungovernable, even in fresh
winds. Many vessels from this cause, after getting near Montanha, or be-
tween it and Potoe Island, have been drifted nearly to St. John Island whilst
making every endeavour, with moderate winds, to keep their heads to the
eastward. Steering, therefore, for the Great West Channel, never borrow
near San-chau, or the other islands to the westward, unless it is blowing
strong from the S.W. to avoid being drifted to the westward. The freshes
abate at times, and then weak tides set to the eastward ; but as these are not
of long duration, a vessel should keep on the eastern side of the channel in
deep water towards the Ladrone Islands and Potoe, and anchor instantly if
she finds the current drifting her westward.

In the strength of the S.W. monsoon, as before stated, endeavour, if the
wind be steady between S.E. and S.W., to make the Great Ladrone, bearing
about North, and never fall in with the islands to the westward ; this is the
more necessary after the middle of August, when easterly winds are likely to
prevail several days together, as they are, more or less, at all seasons. If a
vessel falls to leeward about St. John, in September or October, she will gene-
rally make a tedious passage to Macao if she keeps close along the islands,
where the current or freshes setting westward will oblige her frequently to
anchor ; as these freshes prevail only in shoal water, near the islands, the
best plan to adopt is, to stand well off the land, and take every advantage of
the favourable shifts of wind, to get to the eastward.

Having passed through the Great West Channel, or if the vessel has
anchored in Macao Road, with a leading wind she may weigh with the ebb,
if she can haul over north-eastward for Lintin ; for the tide will then act upon
her port bow, and keep her off the western shore ; whereas, with an easterly
wind, the flood is likely to drift the vessel into shoal water near that shore.
With a fair wind, steer about N.N.E. ^ E. fi-om Macao Eoad for Lintin ;
if it be night, from 4^ to 5 fathoms are good soundings ; for at low- water
springs greater depths ought not to be expected, until several miles north-
eastward of the road.

Turning up against a northerly wind on the flood, tack from the West
side of the channel in about 4 fathoms, according to the vessel's draught, the

976 THE COAST OF CHINA.

lead being a safe guide along the western shore, where the bottom generally
consists of mud. The islands eastward of Macao Eoad may be safely ap-
proached, having 5 fathoms near them, and when past Chung-chau-si the
depths will increase to 9 and 10 fathoms towards Lantao. Working from
hence to Lintin in the night, stand in to 4J fathoms in the West part of the
channel, and do not deepen above 7 or 7^ fathoms to the eastward. Here
the tides become stronger as the vessel proceeds upwards.

In Macao Eoad, and between it and Lintin, the tides are frequently
irregular, setting in a different direction at the surface to what they do
underneath, by which vessels are rendered unmanageable in light winds.
The ebb is stronger, and continues longer than the flood ; the freshes
often running out below, when a flood tide at the surface is setting into
the river.

IINTIN to the BOCA TIGRIS.— When within 7 miles of Lintin steer for
its West point, bearing about N. | E., and when abreast the point run north-
ward in soundings from 5 to 6^ fathoms ; with a westerly wind borrow on
the West side of the channel ; if it is easterly keep in 6 to 6 1 fathoms with
the flood tide. It will be safe to proceed 9 or 12 miles above Lintin, even in
the night, with a working wind, the lead being a certain guide, by tacking
from the West side of the channel in 4^ fathoms, and from the East side in
6^ fathoms ; but when about 6 or 7 miles northward of Lintin, tack in 5^
fathoms from the East side of the channel, for the deepest water is near the
edge of Lintin Sand, and if a large vessel begins to shoal on its edge to 5
fathoms, she will not have room to tack.

Lantao is frequently obscured by clouds or haze, but when its summit is
visible the West peak of that island affords a good mark for running up
this channel in the day. Steering N. by W. or N. by W. | W. from the
West end of Lintin, draw gradually the high West peak of Lantao on with
the West end of Lintin, and continue to bring it more easterly until it is on
with Lintin Peak, or a little open eastward of that peak, and keep it so,
until the vessel is more than halfway from Lintin towards Lankeet. Then
if the wind is contrary, Lantao West peak may be brought nearly to the
East end of Lintin, in tacking from the East side of the channel, and well
westward of Lintin Peak when tacking from the West side ; but on a nearer
approach to Lankeet, the West peak of Lantao must not be brought west-
ward of Lintin Peak.

When within 5 miles of Lankeet, the West peak of Lantao must not be
brought more westerly than touching the East end of Lintin, when in the
West side of the channel ; and to a considerable way open with the same
when on the eastern side. Here the depths decrease, and there is only about
a fathom more water on the East side than on the West side of the channel.
A vessel will pass eastward, in 14 ft. water, of all the mud banks at the
entrance of the western channels between Cum-sing-mun and Lankeet, by

DIEECTIONS— CANTON EIVER. 97?

keeping the northern and highest peak of Kee-ow Island West of S. by W.
i "W., and the summit of Lankeet West of N. by W. i W. The pilots some-
times get vessels on these banks in the night ; but with those of large
draught they are more inclined to borrow close over to the eastward, whereby
they have frequently grounded upon Lintin Bar ; it will therefore be pru-
dent, when the pilot appears confused or uncertain of his position, to anchor
before the vessel shoals her water.

From a position about half a mile oflF the West end of Lintin, a N. by W.
|- W. course would lead fair through the channel to the East side of Sam-
pan-chau, were the tides to run in that direction ; but from Lintin they set
N.N.W. and S.S.E. nearly as far as the North end of Lintin Bar, and from
thence to Sam-pan-chau about N.W. by W. and S.E. by E.

Steering northward, with the West peak of Lantao open a little eastward
of Lintin Peak, or keeping in between 4i and oi fathoms, Lankeet Island
will be seen making like a saddle, and shortly afterwards two small islets or
rocks will appear close to its eastern end. These rocks will be nearly on
with the middle of the opening of the Boca Tigris when first seen, and
should not be brought more easterly ; nor in working ought they to be
brought to touch the point of Tiger Island, which forms the West side of the
opening, until within 4J miles of Lankeet ; being then northward of Lintin
Bar, a vessel may edge over to the eastward. There is no good cross mark
to know when clear of the bar ; but a pagoda on the western shore bearing
S.W. f W., will lead northward of its extremity. From the northern end of
the bar Sam-pan-chau is a little open with Anung-hoy Point N.N.W. i W.,
and the little hill on the East end of Lankeet is N.W. ^ N'., distant about
ft miles.

Shortly after the rocks off the East end of Lankeet are on with the middle
of the opening of Boca Tigris, or rather more westerly, if the vessel is within
6 or 7 miles of Lankeet, Sam-pan-chau will be recognized and will then ap-
pear under the land, a little eastward of the high round summit of Anung-
hoy, a high round hill, sloping to a point on the West side, and forming the
eastern boundary of the Boca Tigris. Anung-hoy Peak in line with Sam-
pan-chau hummock, N. by W. f W., leads westward of Lintin Bar, and
eastward of Lankeet Spit. With a working wind keep Sam-pan-chau be-
tween the eastern shoulder of Anung-hoy hill and the West point of the
same ; but that islet must not be opened westward of Anung-hoy Point until
clear of the North end of Lintin Bar.

With an easterly wind, to prevent being set by the tide towards Lankeet,
keep on the East side of the channel, with Sam-pan-chau shut in a little
eastward of Anung-hoy Point, or nearly on with it. When within 4 miles
of Lankeet a vessel may stand well to the eastward in working, opening
Sam-pan-chau considerably westward of the point, being then to the north-
I. A. 6 I

978 THE COAST OF CHINA.

ward of the extremity of Lintin Bar ; do not, however, stand so far over as
to bring Anung-hoi Point to touch Chuen-pee, but tack before they come
on, for farther eastward the water is shoal. After opening Sam-pan-chau
with Anung-hoy Point, which, with a westerly wind, need not be done until
abreast of Lankeet, steer then direct for the land of Anung-hoy, giving Sam-
pan-chau a berth to the westward of half a mile or more at discretion, in 9
or 8 fathoms ; the depths from hence will be 9, 8, and 7 fathoms to the
entrance of the Boca Tigris, increasing to 13 and 16 fathoms abreast South
Wantong.

If in a vessel of moderate draught, a cast of 3^ or 4 fathoms hard ground
be got before Lankeet is seen, in a clear night, she may be certain of its
being on Lintin Sand, and will deepen fast on hauling westward into the
channel.

Through Fan-si-ak Channel. — If a vessel is drawing 23 feet water, it
would be imprudent to attempt the channel on the East side of Lintin, it
being very narrow just above and about Tree Island, with a considerable
swell in it when blowing strong from the northward. The southern part of
the channel between "White Eock and the East side of Lintin South spit is
about 2 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing towards the spit to 5
fathoms. In working northward, do not stand so far West as to shoal to 5
fathoms, or to bring the East side of Lintin to bear North of N. by W.
When northward of Tong-ku, if the vessel is of 20 or 21 ft. draught, keep
the eastern shore aboard, avoiding the spits of shoal water at the points of
the islands, until ofif the North end of Mah-chau, the shoal off the South end
of which will be avoided by not shutting Tree Island in with Mah-chau, or
by not bringing the highest peak of Mah-chau westward of N. | W., when
White Eock is in one with the North end of Fan-si-ak, which is the mark
for the South end of Mah-chau spit.

From hence to Tree Island, when standing towards Lintin Bar or Fan-si-
ak Bank, keep the lead going, and tack in 4 fathoms or less, according to the
vessel's draught ; but the lead will be the best guide, as the bank is much
curved in shape. Standing eastward, do not bring the North or highest
peak ©f Mah-chau westward of South, and when the South point of Sui-
chau bears N.E. do not bring the tree on Tree Island westward of N. by W.
^ W., to avoid the shoal spit of 2 and 3 fathoms, which extends S.S.E. from
that island nearly a mile. When thus far, endeavour to pass between Tree
Island and the fishing stakes No. 1 (in the Admiralty chart) placed near it ;
this island is safe to approach close to the rocks, but on the Channel Banks,
on the western side of these stakes, the water shoals suddenly to 2J fathoms,
irregular soundings, sand and mud.

Being close to the West end of Tree Island, do not bring the tree to bear
more southerly than S.E. ^ E., this bearing being close on the edge of the
shore bank. Standing westward. White Eock should not be brought east-

CANTON EIVER. 979

ward of the saddle on the East end of Lintin, or the East end of the fishing
stakes No. 3 (in the chart to the northward of N.W. by N., the lead not
being a sufficient guide for the Channel banks. If the fishing stakes be not
removed, they appear to be a preferable guide to the land mark, being
always discernible, but either may be used in clear weather. When within
half a mile of the stakes No. 3, the passage becomes wider, extending from
the shore bank to Lintin Bar, with 4, 4J and 4h fathoms in it at low water,
shoaling gradually on either side, so as to render the lead a guide in tacking,
the bottom being very soft mud.

If close to Tree Island with a leading wind, steer direct for the centre of
the fishing stakes No. 3, and pass them on either side, as circumstances
require.

There is another range of fishing stakes (numbered 4), bearing S.W. J
W. of No. 3, which will, when near them and bearing South, warn a vessel
of her proximity to Lintin Bar.

If the vessel is under 20 feet draught a wider range may be taken, but
she ought, if possible, to follow the above directions, and at any rate pass
between Tree Island and the fishing stakes No. 1, or close to their western
end, and avoid the Channel banks. If drawing 17 feet or under she may
pass up or down any part of the channel, keeping to the eastward of Fan-
si-ak well over towards Mah-chau, avoiding the shoal spits which project
from the ends of the islands.

Tides. — In the Ean-si-ak Channel it is high water, full and change, l"* O™,
but the rise is irregular, especially at neaps, the rise and fall being then
only 2^ to 3 ft., and from 6 to 8^ ft at springs ; velocity from 3 to 4 knots,
and from 2 to 2^ knots at neaps.

A vessel proceeding up with a working wind should weigh instantly the
tide slackens suffiently for her to make any progress, in whatever part of
the channel she may have anchored. The passage between Lintin and Fan-
si-ak should not be attempted in vessels of large draught, having only 2| to
2f fathoms in it at low water.

The CHU KIANG or PEARL RIVER, commonly called CANTON
RIVER, rises about 30 miles North of Canton (or 100 miles from the sea)
in two streams, which unite at 10 miles above that city; at this junction a
long narrow stream connects it with the North river by two branches, one at
Sam-chui, the other 10 miles North of that place. The Tunff Kiang or East
river, formed between the islands Chuen-pee and Ty-cock-tau, or perhaps
more strictly between Ty-cock-tau and the island of Anung-hoy, is divided
by the Wan-tong Islands into two channels, the eastern of which is generally
used by vessels of large draught, and is named Boca Tigris, and the western
is called Bremmer Channel.

980 THE COAST OF CHINA.

CHUEN-PEE POINT, the South extreme of Chuen-pee Island, is close to
a small peak called Chuen-pee Hill, and N.N.E. I E. If miles from Sam-
pan-chau. On the N.W. point of the island is a small watch-turret, with
a fort under it ; and midway between this point and Chuen-pee Point is a
ledge, named Pratt Roch, lying a quarter of a mile off shore, with 6 to 9 fa-
thoms close outside.

Anchorage. — There is a small bay with sandy beach on either side of Chuen-
pee Point, and fresh water may be obtained in that on the eastern side ;
but vessels of large draught cannot anchor near it, the soundings being shoal
on a sandy flat, extending eastward and south-eastward from the point.
The anchorage is in 6 to 7 fathoms, about one-third of a mile from the beach
on the western side of tlie point. At this anchorage it is high water, full
and change, at about 2'' 0", and springs rise 7 to 8^ feet.

Anson Bay, between Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy Islands, is very shoal,
affording only a harbour for boats in Junk Creek.

Bower Point, the S.E. extreme of Ty-cock-tau, form the western point of
entrance to Canton Eiver. From this point to Sam-pan-chau, the West side
of Chuen-pee Channel is bordered by a shoal flat, over which boats can only
pass to East and West Ow-chau, the two small islets lying southward of the
point.

Anung-hoy Point, the S W. point of Anung-hoy Island, forms with Keshen
Point, half a mile to the N.W., the eastern side of the Boca Tigris. The
priiicipal fortification? for defending the strait are built on this face of
Anv]Tig-h(jy, and Anung-hoy Peak rises immediately behind them to the
height of 1,500 ft. These are the first to attract attention, and consist of a
long range of white granite masonry pierced with embrasures at the water
level, with a wall running up the steep in a semicircle, as a protection from
attack in rear.

Wantong Islands. — North and South Wanton g are two small islands lying
nearly in mid-channel abreast Anung-hoy Point, and form the western side
of the Boca Tigris. They bear N.N.W. and S.S.E. from each other, distant
a third of a mile apart, and are surrouded by a bank which extends 1^
mile in a S.E. by S. direction from the southernmost island, at which dis-
tance the depth is only 4 fathoms. These islands are completely encircled
with white granite batteries.

Directions. — From mid-channel abreast San-pan-chau with a leading wind
a N.W. by N. course for 4i miles will lead to the entrance of the Boca
Tigris ; but with a turning wind be careful, when standing towards Chuen-
pee, not to borrow too close to Pratt Bock. When standing westward to-
wards the shoal flat extending south-eastward of South Wantong, tack before
the eastern extreme of Tiger Island touches the eastern part of the fort in
North Wantong.

The BOCA TIGRIS has deep water and uneven bottom, and is much con-

CANTON EIVER. 981

tracted by the Chain Rode, above water, lying E.S.E. a quarter of a mile
from the East point of North Wantong ; and although the passage between
it and Anung-hoy Point is too narrow for working a large vessel, she can
always back and fill through with the tide. The tides runs strong through in
eddies, and vessels generally keep nearest the eastern shore in passing. If
detained here by the Chinese authorities, the best position to anchor is in 7
or 8 fathoms, abreast of and about a quarter of a mile northward of the fort
and turret on North Wantong, taking c<ire to avoid the Wantong Rock,
lying North nearly a cable's length from its eastern point.

The Bremer Channel, westward of the Wantong Islands, carries a depth
of 10 to Sg fathoms, and was frequently taken by Her Majesty's ships
during the operations in Canton River in 1841. If intending to use this
channel, the first village seen to the northward of Bower Point open South
of the first bluff point above Tij-coch-tau Fort (this latter point has the ap-
pearance of an island), will lead southward of the South extreme of the
shoal flat off South Wantong; and the East extreme of Tiger Island just
open westward of the West end of South Wantong will lead along its
western edge in 5 fathoms. When abreast of North Wantong, about 1^
cable from its West point, steer about North to avoid the shoal flat on the
western shore.

Duff Rock. — This dangerous pointed rock, with only 18 ft. water over it,
and 7 to 9 fathoms around it at low water, lies N.N.W. f W. nearly a mile
from the eastern end of North Wantong, with the small round hummock on
the western part of South Wantong seen over the western slope of North
Wantong (between the small redoubt with a tree on it and the point), and
the high land of Geefou Island touching the western brow of Tiger Island.
A vessel will pass eastward of the rock by not bringing Sam-pan-chau to
touch the East end of North Wantong, until she has approached Tiger Island
BO near as not to see the high land of Geefou to the westward of it.

TIGER ISLAND.— N.W. i N. If mile from the East end of North Wan-
tong is the Tiger's Claw, the S.E. extreme of a remarkable high island,
called by the Chinese Ty-fu and by Europeans Tiger Island, the summit of
which appears cleft. A shoal extends S.E. from the Claw, and at the dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile the depth is only 3^ fathoms. There is a fort on
the N.E. side of the island. This island, the upper end of which is a re-
markable mass of rounded granite with precipitous sides, rises to the height
of about 400 feet. On its eastern face stands a battery similar to that of
Anunghoy, which completes the defence of the river entrance.

Bate Rock, discovered by the late Captain W. T. Bate, R.N., in 1857.
lies 2 cables northward of the North side of Tiger Island, with the fort on
that island bearing S.E. | S., ; the highest part of the island (eastern sum-
mit) S. f E. ; and the N.W. extreme of the island nearly in line with a small
granite boulder on the summit of the hill on the western shore of the river

982 THE COAST OF CHINA.

S.W. i W. It has only 14 ft. on it, is steep-to, there being 10 fathoms mud
close to the eastward, and 7 fathoms between it and the island. To pass out-
side or N.E. of the rock, keep the East extreme of North Wantong open of
Tiger Island Fort.

Towling Flat— About a third of a mile eastward of the fort on Tiger
Island, is a projecting elbow of Towling Flat, which, together with Towling
Sand, are much increased, and have extended considerably to the westward
since the survey of this river in 1840. The sand is now an island covered
with vegetation, and never whoUy under water even at the highest tides,
Tomb Point (the next point N.W. of Chuen-pee Point) must be kept well
open of Keshen Point.

Vessels turning to windward from the Boca Tigris towards Tiger Island
may stand to the eastward and shut in the high land of Chuen-pee with
Anung-hoy until abreast the S.E. point of Tiger Island. If of large draught
they had better back and fill, between the island and the flat, as the tides
are strong.

The Small Bar is the name given, in the chart of this river, by Lieut. D.
Ross, I.N., 1815, to a small bank of hard ground lying nearly in mid-
channel, about 4f miles northward of Tiger Island. It is now more than a
mile in extent. North and South, and near its centre. West, two-thirds of a
mile from Blake Point, a patch was found with only 10 ft. on it; the depths
on the other parts of the bank were 2 to 3 fathoms.

Second Bar. — The channel for vessels of large draught becomes very nar-
row abreast of Second Bar Creek, on the eastern shore of the river, and the
services of a pilot are requisite. The Second Bar is a large collection of
shoals, 3 miles in length in a N. by W. ^ W. direction, lying between
Second Bar Creek and Second Bar Pagoda. There are two channels over
it, on either side of the central banks or middle grounds, which have varying
depths of 13 to 17 ft. on them, and several shoal patches of 9 to 11 ft. The
western channel is about 2 cables broad, and carries 18 to 26 ft. at low water ;
but there are two patches in it of 14 ft. water, lying respectively W. | N.
and W. by S. of the opening of Second Bar Creek. The West point of
Tiger Island in line with Grassy Tongue, S. by E. easterly, leads through in
not less than 1 4 ft. at low water, touching on the banks.

The eastern channel is always taken by the pilots, as it is easier, more
direct, and along the shore. Its southern part is entered at 7 cables above
Amherst Point, but a shelf steep-to, extending 2 cables off the intervening
shore, must be avoided. Having passed this shelf stand in North a little
easterly towards Second Bar Creek to get the leading mark on, which is
Wantong Tower on with the grassy edge of the land at Amherst Point, S. by
E. 1 E., when abreast of Second Bar Creek. From hence the channel is
only about a cable wide for a mile, and this mark will lead through in not
less than 17 to 20 feet at low water, provided the vessel be sheered to the

CANTON RIVEE. 983

eastward about half a cable to avoid a 14-ft. patch on passing the first little
creek, about half a mile above Second Bar Creek ; after which the leading
mark may be regained or the tower kept a little shut in with the point. The
banks are cleared when Second Bar Pagoda bears W. by S.

The Town of Timg-hian, about 10 miles eastward of Second Bar, may be
reached by two principal creeks, each of which has several outlets.

Blenheim and "Whampoa Passages. — At 3 miles above Escape Creek, and
5i miles above Second Bar, the river divides into two main branches, the
Whampoa and Blenheim Passages, which meet again at Honam Point, just
above the city of Canton, and opposite the foreign settlement. By the
Blenheim, or southern passage, the distance to Honam Point from the junc-
tion is 16J miles, and by the Whampoa, or northern passage, 14 miles.
Canton lies on the latter below Honam Point, and 8 miles below the city is
Whampoa, the anchorage for foreign vessels. Above Whampoa the river
in some parts is not navigable, even at springs, by vessels drawing more than
13 ft., so that those of heavy draught have to proceed to Canton by Blenheim
Passage.

WHAMPOA. — At 2 miles above Escape Creek, and near the East bank of
the River, is First Bar Island, low and flat, westward of which are the four
flat islands, smaller but similar, and then the larger Danes Island, the
western part of which is covered with hilly ground which marks the position
of ^Vhampoa. The navigable pass into the Whampoa Passage is that
which is next westward of First Bar Island, carrying from 20 to 30 ft. water.

Whampoa is known to foreigners as Bamboo Town. Above the town lie the
premises of the Union Dock Company, next the hill with a chapel embosomed
in foliage at its foot forming the Parsee burial ground, and the British Vice-
Consulate perched on the brow of a hill, behind which lie the basins and
workshops of the Hong Kong and Whampoa Dock Company. Fronting
these is English Reach, and above it, south-westward, American Reach.
Opposite is Sulphur Point, formed by the confluence of Elliot Passage (of
which American Reach is a part), and the direct channel to Hong Kong.
Whampoa New Town extends from Sulphur Point along the left bank of
American Reach.

The Aiichorage is in English and American Reaches, the best position being
between the North sides of Danes and French Islands, and Whampoa New
Town opposite. It is a safe anchorage with a moderate tide, in from 5 to 6
fathoms, soft mud bottom ; there is, however, scarcely room for two large
ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping, when
there are many arrivals, to lie moored in English Reach, abreast the entrance
of Junk Creek.

Tides. — At Whampoa, it is high water, full and change, in the month of
March, at 1^ 40", in April, at T 15", and in May and June, at O'' 30'°; and
the rise at springs is 7 to 8 ft. In March the day and night tides rise to the

984 THE COAST OF CHINA.

same level. From April to October the day tides are the higher ; and from
November to February the lower. In May and June the level of spring
tides is 4 ft. higher, and that of neaps 2 ft. higher than in March.

Doch. — There are nine docks of various classes. The Hong Kong and
Whampoa Dock Company have four, of which two are of granite, one of
wood, and two mud docks available for small vessels at low charges. The
Union Dock Company possess four other docks. Dock A, the principal dock
at Whampoa, is on the N.W. side of Danes Island, under the cemetery hill,
and was formerly called Couper's Dock. Its length over all is 550 ft.,
breadth 80 ft., depth over sill at springs 16J to 17 ft., and at neap tides 13^
to 15 ft. It can be used as either one or two docks, being fitted with two
caissons, and can be pumped out in about 4 hours. There is a pair of shears,
capable of lifting 60 tons, on the jetty alongside which vessels can lie at all
times of tide. Both A and B, the other granite dock, are, as regards capa-
city but not depth over sill, the largest docks in China, and are fitted with
every appliance in the way of caissons, powerful steam-pumps, &c., to ensure
safety and despatch in the work.

Directions. — Having entered Canton Eiver by the Boca Tigris, be careful
when approaching Duff Eock not to bring Sam-pan-chau to touch the East
end of North Wantong, until the high land of Geefu Island is shut in with
the western part of Tiger Island. In passing through the channel between
the latter island and Towling Flat, observe that Tomb Point, on Chuen-pee
Island, kept well open of Anung-hoy North Fort, will lead westward of the
western edge of the flat ; and the eastern end of North Wantong kept open
of Tiger Island Fort will lead N.E. of Bate Eock. With a working wind,
a vessel of large draught had better back and fill through this channel, as
the tides in it are strong.

After passing Tiger I&land, keep the watch tower on Chuen-pee Fort open
of Anung-hoy North Fort, until Bower Point, the East extreme of Ty-cock-
tau, is in line with the eastern side of Tiger Island ; then steer up the river
with this latter mark on, and it will lead in the deepest part of the channel,
but nearest to Towling Island, in 7 or 8 fathoms water. When the remark-
able high part of Geefu is on with the highest land to the westward, or
bearing S.W., keep more eastward, and open Bower Point again. Thence
steer to the northward, pass on either side of the small Bar, and attend to
the soundings on the chart.

The two Fairway marks for crossing the Second Bar are given in page
982 ; but the services of a pilot are here indispensable to a vessel of 20 ft.
draught, unless the channel be previously buoyed ; for the knolls or shoal
patches being formed of sand and gravel mixed with mud, are subject to
alter in position by the freshes of the river and the spring tides, which also
render the navigable channel changeable. A pilot can be obtained from
amongst the fishermen on the spot, who then buoy the channel with their

CANTON EIVER. 985

sampans, but sufficient time should be given them to sound with their bam-
boos and to take their stations properly, or else a vessel is likely to take the
ground. Vessels often ground and lie in a dangerous state for a tide ; and
this often proceeds from two or three pushing over together, as there is no
time to be lost after the water has risen sufficiently for a vessel drawing 23
or 24 ft. to pass over.

Vessels of large draught proceeding up the river from an anchorage below
the Second Bar in the N.E. monsoon, or with a weather tide, should be
under weigh by the last quarter flood, to save the tide across the bar ; for
the channel between the knolls being very narrow, they must back and fill
through ; if of moderate draught they may weigh much earlier. The diffi-
culty in crossing the bar is in ascertaining correctly the shoal patches on either
side the channel, and it will be best to place the boats on them at the first
of the flood. When the Second Bar Pagoda bears W. by S., the bar is
crossed, and the bottom will be soft and loose, unlike that on the bar, which
is in parts hard and stony.

After passing the Second Bar, keep between a third and half a mile from
the eastern shore until First Bar Island is approached, when the river begins
to be contracted and its navigation requires great caution. When Whampoa
Pagoda is observed just on with the northernmost clump or hill on Danes
Island, haul out more into the middle of the river to avoid the shoal ground
ofi" the South side of First Bar Island.

As no safe marks can be given for leading between First Bar Island and
the easternmost of the Flat Islands, towards the First Bar, it will be pru-
dent for a stranger, if without a pilot, to buoy the S.E. extreme of the spit
extending ofi" the eastern Flat Island, and also the Brunswick Patches. The
best route appears to be when the South Chop-house ou the southern shore
of the river bears S.S.W., to haul over to First Bar Island to avoid the spit,
and then steer in about N.W. J N., passing along the western face of the
island at about a cable. The open pile beacon on the S.E. end of No. 1
Flat Island marks the extremity of a mud bank. When Whampoa Pagoda
is seen clear to the horthward of the Flat Islands, steer for the northern
shore, which must be skirted at about half a cable, passing through the nar-
row 4-fathom channel northward of the Brunswick Patches.

As the northern patch is approached, or when the large house inland
bears about N. by W., be careful in preserving the distance of half a
cable from the shore, and when the house bears eastward of N. by E. the
danger will be passed. Thence steer towards Whampoa through Cam-
bridge Reach, borrowing towards the northern shore. Entering English
Eeach, the southern or Danes Island shore is generally preferred to avoid
the shoal flat off Junk and Watson Islands, taking care to give a berth
to the cluster of rocks, covered at half-flood, near Jardine Point, the East
I. A. 6 K

986 THE COAST OF CHINA.

point of entrance to French Eiver. The anchorage off Whampoa is in 5
to 6 fathoms, over soft mud bottom ; but there is scarcely room for two
large ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping,
when there are many arrivals, to be moored in English Reach.

Whampoa to Canton. — The lower part of the City of Canton is 8 miles,
and the Shamien or Foreign Concession 10 miles above Whampoa. If pro-
ceeding by the Whampoa Channel, as this passage is called, it is better to
take a pilot for the first time, although for gun-boats the Admiralty charts
are a sufficient guide if no radical changes in the channels of recent occur-
rence have been reported. Some caution may be required in passing the
Whampoa barrier if the tide be strong, in which case it is preferable to hug
the South bank at the mouth of Fiddler's Eeach. Another part where care
is required is just below Canton, where the city is first lully opened out dear
of Napier and Kuper Islands, for a reef extends nearly a cable into the river
from the South bank. When, therefore, the small Suburbs Pagoda on the
S.E. or nearest angle of the city wall comes in line with Qough's Hill, which
is a little to the right of the tall, square, conspicuous red pagoda of five
stories, N.N.W. ^ W., sheer out from the South bank into mid-stream. The
rocky ground above the Dutch Folly, as the small island abreast the centre
of the city is called, has been recently buoyed and lighted, and now therefore
presents no difficulty to navigation.

Close to the Dutch Folly are two wooden buoys to mark the fairway be-
tween some rocks. One is in 8 ft. water, painted in red and black vertical
stripes, to mark the starboard side of the channel; the other is in 4 ft., with
green and black vertical stripes, to mark the port side entering.

Lights and Beacons. — On the sunken rocks above the Dutch Folly are three
square stone beacons, from which, at n\^t, fixed lights are exhibited. Two
red lights are on Nos. 1 and 2 red beacons on the starboard hand entering,
and one green light is on the port hand on No. 3, a green beacon.

To Canton through Blenheim Passage. — In the Blenheim Passage lead-
ing to Canton the only two p irts where difficulty is experienced are the
pas-sage of the Barrier and Parker Puint Bar. From Escape Creek above
Second Bar, a mid-channel course is pursued until nearing the southern
shores of the Flat Islands. Close these, keeping very near to island No. 3,
and also the south-eastern face of Danes Island, but sheer well off as soon as
French Creek westward of Danes Island opens out, and steer well over
towards Terrace Head in Kellett Eeach, a hill 147 ft. high, on which the
ground is cultivated in terraces from base to summit. At the head of Kel-
lett Eeach is Larkins Point, an earth cliff 40 ft. high, and J| cable below it
is Junk Eock, under water, 120 yards from the eastern shore. Above Lar-
kins Point fishing stakes extend halfway across the river from the South
bank, but they present no obstruction as the channel is now along the northern
shore for some distance.

CANTON RIVER. 987

Bremer Point, having a group of hills with cliffs at their base, is next
closely rounded to avoid a shallow middle ground tailing from High Island
half a mile down stream. High Island, of 88 ft elevation, lies in the centre
of the river, narrowing the northern or navigable channel to 1 cable. The
Comus sunken rock, 60 yards from the North bank, further narrows this
channel; it lies S.W. of the highest of the hills of Bremer Point, and \\
cable East of the North point of High Island, which is very steep-to. Above
High Island is Brown Reach, which has a depth of 24 to 25 ft., and where
H.M.S. Blenheim anchored. Above Galbraith Hill Point, on the South bank
of Brown Reach, the river splits round the low flat island of Changshan.
Senhouse Reach, the channel South of Changshan, is seldom used, the
deepest water at its western part being only 1 1 ft. The northern channel ia
Maitland Passage, which carries deep water as far as the short cut which
connects it with Elliot Passage on the North ; then the depth decreases to
13 ft. (20 to 21 It. at high water springs), on either side a narrow middle
ground of 10 ft. Keep along the North shore past Changshan, above which
more fishing stakes are seen southward of the fairway. Above the next
hilly ground on the South bank, and between it and Hamilton Creek, the
river is broad and deep, and without obstruction, and therefore affords ex-
cellent anchorage. Above this, vessels drawing IS ft. cannot go.

If proceeding to Canton the deep water must be quitted for a narrow
gully along the North bank, carrying 10 to 12 ft., which leads up to the
Barrier Passage. Caution is required here, for the channel is irregular both
in its conformation and depth, and the middle ground of 7 to 9 ft., which
bounds it on the South, is of the same character; this shoal, which extends
from the Barrier to fully half a mile below it, being entirely northward of
the centre of the river.

The Barrier is an artificial obstruction of stones and piling, constructed to
prevent the approach of large ships to Canton, during the first China war.
Recently, however, the passage through it by the northern bank has been
widened to 100 ft., and deepened to 11 ft., besides being rendered more prac'
ticable by the establishment of improved beacons and lights.

Two wooden heacons, painted white, and surmounted by a hlach disc 2 ft. in
diameter, have been recently erected on the North side of the Barrier. A
scale to show the depth of water is affixed to each beacon, and lights will be
shown at night to indicate the passage.

The course for the first half mile above the Barrier lies along the North
bank, and there are shoals of 7 to 9 ft. in the centre of the river, caused by
this obstruction to the current, which are probably of a shifting character.

Farker Point Bar is situate at a crossing from this branch of the river into
that from Canton, of which Elliot Passage, leading to Whampoa, is a con-
tinuation. It is shoal in consequence of being out of the scour of the tides
of either branch. Its shoalest part, 8 to 9 ft., is between Parker and 49th

988 THE COAST OV CHINA.

Points. Vessels of 1 7 ft. draught have passed over after examination and
buoying of the best channel.

Macao Fort Passage is a reach of 3i miles, leading straight up from Parker
Point Bar to the Foreign Concession at Canton. Macao Port, a picturesque
object on an islet in the reach, may be passed closely on the East side, but
N.N.E. of the northern extremity of the fort lies a sunken rock exactly in
mid-channel, between the fort and the shore. After passing this, keep in
the centre of the river, for there are rocks below water on either side, close
to the bank; and abreast Birds' Nest Fort, just below the Honam suburb,
on the East bank, two other sunken rocks lie close together, 130 yards from
the shore.

The ebb stream in Macao Fort Passage, at springs, runs from 3 to 4 knots
an hour.

Elliot Passage is an intermediate branch of the river leading to Whampoa
from Canton, and is indeed the direct continuation of the Macao Fort Pas-
sage. It was originally a fine, deep-water channel, but the large Barrier 6
miles above Whampoa, of similar construction to those in the other passages,
has caused the bed of the river, for 1 mile on either side the Barrier, to silt
up, and not more than 8 ft. can with certainty be carried through the
Barrier Channel, which is close along the South Bank. At Whampoa,
Elliot Passage is entered from American Eeach. Both this and other inter-
secting creeks in the vicinity may be navigated with the aid of the Admiralty
chart, having been surveyed in 1857.

CANTON, the capital of the province of Kwang-tung, stands on the North
bank of the river, about 31 miles above Boca Tigris, 70 miles from Macao,
and 74 miles from Hong Kong. It is surrounded by a strong wall 5 miles
in circumference, the foundation of which is of red feldspar rock, and the
upper part brick. The wall varies from 25 to 40 ft. in height, and is 20 ft.
thick, having an esplanade on the inside, and is accessible on three sides of
the city.

To the West of the city a concession was obtained after the bombardment
and destruction of Canton on December 28-9, 1856, and an area of 24 acres
was levelled and planted, and a quay wall built. Of this area, four-fifths
have been appropriated to the British Grovernment, and one-filth to the
French, the latter portion occupying the eastern part. Besides the consular
offices and the residence of the Vice-Consul, there is a church, library,
reading-rooms, &c., and there are two cemeteries within a moderate distance
of the concessions. The Consul, for political purposes, resides within the
city at an official yamun.

• Ofi" Shamien the river is broad, forming a commodious anchorage for large
steamers, the deepest water, 18 to 22 ft., and good holding ground, being
within 150 yards of the river wall of Shamien, but sailing vessels are re-
stricted to the anchorage of Whampoa.

CANTON RIVER. 989

Supplies. — The markets of Canton are well supplied with provisions at
moderate prices ; beef, poultry, and fish, fruit and vegetables at all times,
to which are added, in winter, mutton and game in plenty.

War and rebellion, the opening of Hankow as a shipping port for tea, and
the facility with which smuggling can be carried on, have robbed Canton of
the pre-eminence it so long enjoyed in commercial prosperity ; of late years
foreign trade has declined about one-half, and the native traders are rapidly
absorbing in their own hands the dealings which before were the means of
enriching foreign houses of business. Tea and silk are the principal ex-
ports, the imports are cotton goods, rice, opium, «S:c.

Climate. — Canton enjoys a much more temperate and salubrious climate
than most places situated within the tropics, and neither epidemics nor ma-
laria prevail there. In ordinary years the temperature ranges from 42" in
winter to 96° in summer ; the extreme range is from 38° to 100", but these
are rarely reached. The seasons correspond with the period of the monsoons,
the hot season being from May to October, and the cool season from the
middle of October to the latter part of April. The S.W. winds set in early
in April, but do not gain force until May, when rain becomes abundant, and
the thermometer rises to 85°, and even higher. June is a dry and sultry
month, whilst in July and August frequent showers are of almost daily
occurrence, which, with the strong monsoon, temper the extreme heat, which
averages 80° to 88°. September is again sultry, but the nights begin to grow
cool, and October, though warm, is usually not an unpleasant month. The
first steady blast of the N.E. monsoon, in the early part of November, send-
ing down the temperature to 55,, brings a sensation of bitter cold to the con-
stitutions of Europeans, relaxed by the preceding heats ; but the weather
of the ensuing months, in which constant sunshine, a moderately cold, but
agreeable temperature, and clear skies, prevail almost uninterruptedly, is not
to be surpassed in any quarter of the globe. Ice sometimes forms in Janu-
ary, and the thermometer has been registered at 29°. A fall of snow, 2
inches deep, occurred in February, 1835. Fogs are common in February
and March. Great precaution must as a necessity be observed, even by long
residents, to avoid exposure to the sun and chills, and this with temperance
in diet will ordinarily ensure immunity from sudden disease. Fever and
ague, and sunstroke, are brought on by very slight exposures, and bowel
complaints are the natural consequences of imprudent indulgence in fruits,
cold beverages, &c., and much attention should be paid to suitable clothing.
Chlorodyne, Lamplough's saline mixture, and quinine will always be found
useful in this and similar climates.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in the river off Canton, in
March, at 2'' 40*", in May and June at P 40", in September and October at
2h 12""; the springs rise about 5J ft., neaps, 4i ft. During the N.E. mon-

990 THE COAST OF CHINA.

soon the tides rise 2 to 3 ft. higher in the night than in the day ; but in the
S.W. monsoon the day tides are the higher.

The SI KIANG or WEST RIVER, also called the Blue River, is 500 miles
in length from its source to its mouth, which is 9 miles S.S.W. of Macao,
and receiving in its course some large tributaries, drains with them the entire
province of Kwang-si. At Sam-shui, 75 miles from the sea, where its course
turns from South to East, it receives the waters of the Peh-kiang, or North
River, which rises in the northern part of the province of Kwang-tung. From
the North River and from the West Elver, below Sam-shui, are several com-
munications with Fat-shan, Canton, and other parts of the Canton Eiver.

DELTA of the SI KIANG and ADJACENT RIVERS. -Between Macao,
Sam-shui, and Canton, on the western side of the estuary of Canton Eiver,
is a large tract of alluvial land, the delta of these rivers. A network of
streams and canals intersect this space, which, from the greater elevation of
land on the Si kiang, discharge themselves into Canton Eiver, and thus,
together with the Tung kiang or East Eiver, which drains a large central
portion of the Kwang-tung Province, flowing into Canton Eiver at its eastern
side, cause the great volume of water in its estuary so disproportionate to its
size. The greater portion of the delta has been reclaimed in times long past,
by embankments, and the process is going on at the present day.

The principal channels traversing this delta fall into the Canton estuary,
between Cum-sing-mun and the second bar ; some small upper branches in
the vicinity of Fat-shan, falling into Canton Eiver between Canton and the
upper part of Blenheim Passage. The principal of these streams, the Tam-
chau Channel, traverses the entire length from Sam-shui (at the junction of
the Si kiang with North Eiver) in a S.E. direction, with branches to all the
principal towns and districts in the delta. In the central district of Shun-
tuk nearly all the channels are connected, and one, which passes South of
the town of Tai-lung, joins them to the Si kiang 2 miles South of Kum-
chuk. Besides these there is the narrow channel used by the Nemesis,
which, entering from the Broadway 5 miles above Moto Fort, runs through
Liau-si-wan, and joins the Wang-mun or the first channel North of Cum-
sing-mun.

Between Cum-sing-mun and Lankeet are the Wang-mun, Tam-chau, and
Ty-cock-tau Channels. They enter the West side of the estuary through
extensive mud banks, their course running through level lands dotted with
many island-like hills. The waters are kept in their channels by artificial
embankments, without which almost the whole of the rice fields would be
flooded at high water. The rice lands are principally East of Tai-lung ;
West of that town the land, although having the same features (level with
island-like hills), is more elevated (above high water level), and cultivated
with mulberry plants.

CANTON EIVER. 991

The embankments are wide, but being planted with fruit trees, with here
and there houses of labourers, leave but a paved path, about 6 ft. wide, for
foot passengers. The rivers and numerous canals are the ordinary mode of
transport, as every field is approachable by a canal. The towns are also
entered by water, the channels being staked across; in some cases an entrance
is left wide enough to admit a large junk, the opening being closed by rude
gates, as at Tam-chau ; in others these barriers consist of rows of stakes,
with their heads above high water, closely driven across the whole breadth
of the river, leaving but a narrow and circuitous channel near one bank,
through which the current runs with great strength, and often the stakes are
level with low water.

The general course of the Tam-chau Channel is from the N.W., as is also
that of the Ty-cock-tau Channel, which falls out of the Sdiwan Channel below
the town of Saiwan. The Saiwan Channel is entered from Canton River,
North of Whitcomb Island ; the course up it is more westerly, and it joins
the Tam-chau Channel N.E. of Tai-lung. Moneypenny Creek leads from
the latter into the Fatshan branch above Haycock Island.

The Tai-lung, which is South of the town of that name, runs "West from
the Tam-chau Channel, and by a winding course joins the Si kiang by the
Junction Channel. The Wang-mun receives three branches, the Nemesis
from the S. W., and the Sailam and Kerr Channels from the N. W. ; the latter
also joins the Si kiang through the Junction Channel. Besides these main
channels there are smaller channels at right angles to them, forming connec-
tions at different points of their course. The principal of these have been
explored, and all found to have more than 6 ft. in them at low water springs.

To describe this network of streams, which have been well examined by
our officers, would be a hopeless task without the elaborate plans they have
drawn up of their courses and connections ; and these charts, moreover, are
the best guides. We therefore omit the details wliich have been given, the
principal of which are those by Commander C. J. Bullock, the late Captain
Bate. Captain NoUoth, &c.

Tides. — In the month of February it was high water, full and change, in
Cum-sing-mun Harbour, at U*" 6", and at Lankeet Island at 11'' 20". In
March it was high water in the Tai-lun Channel (Kerr Point) at 1'' 30", in
the Wang-mun at IP 50", and in the Junction Channel at about 2''. At all
these places springs rose 6^ ft., neaps 5^ ft., and neaps ranged 3 J ft.

In the Saiwan, Tam-chau, Tai-lung, and Junction Channels the flood sets
to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward towards Canton River. In the
summer, when the day tides are the higher, it appears to be high water
nearly all day at springs in some of these channels, owing to the day tide
only falling about 2 ft.

CHAPTEE XXI.

EAST COAST OF CHINA, BETWEEN HONG KONG AND THE

RIVER MIN.

TATHONG CHANNEL is formed between the West side of Tamtu Island
and the East side of Hon|; Kong; close to the latter, about IJ mile north-
ward of Tylong Head, lie two small rocky islets, and between these islets
and the South extreme of Tamtu is the Tathong East Roch, above water.

Cape D'Aguilar Lighthouse, sometimes called Tylong Head lighthouse,
is situated at the S.E. extreme of Hong Kong Island. It is a stone tower,
57 ft. high, which, together with the necessary buildings, is painted white.
The light is fixed, elevated 198 ft. above the sea, and visible 23 miles off as
follows : — visible to the eastward between N.E. and S.E. f E., excepting
where the Ninepin and Waglan Islands intervene ; obscured between S.E. | E.
and S.E. \ S. by Soon Kong Island ; visible between S.E. \ S. and S.S.E. ;
obscured from S.S.E. to S.W. by S. by Lochow, Pootoy, and Lema Islands;
visible from S.W. by S. to W. by S. f S., except to vessels when S.W. of
the Samoun group ; and visible over Tathong Channel, with the exception
of a small portion obscured by Shicko Head. Position lat. 22° 12' 15", long.
114° 15' 45" E.

Cape CoUinson Lighthouse, on the eastern side of Hong Kong Island,
was illuminated on the 1st of March, 1876, and shows a /xf(? light, at an
elevation of 200 ft., visible 8 miles off. This light appears bright in the
Tathong Channel between N.N.W. and S.S.E., and shows red to the west-
ward of those bearings. The red light covers the Tathong and Bokhara
Eocks to the southward, and the dangers extending out from Sywan Bay to
the northward, so that vessels approaching Victoria Harbour from the south-
ward and eastward will clear all the dangers on the western side of Tathong
Channel by keeping in the bright light.

Bokhara Rocks are two rocky heads, with nine fathoms between them.
The S. W. rock (on which the S.S. Bokhara struck) is a pinnacle rock with 3

TATHONG CHANNEL. 993

fathoms on it at low water, from which Tathong Rock bears N. by W. J W.,
and Cape D'Aguilar lighthouse W.S.W. A Mack and ichite chequered buoy
ha8 been moored in 9 fathoms close to the western edge of S.W. Bokhara
Rock, with Tathong Rock bearing N. by W. | W., and Cape D'Aguilar
W.S.W.

N.E. Rock is a pinnacle rock with 18 ft. water over it, situated about 1^
cable N.N.E. ^ E. from S.W. rock.

From the centre of N.E. ruck, Tathong Rock is in line with the extreme
of Cape CoUinson, bearing N. by W. J W. ; the N.W. point of Beaufort
Island is just shut in behind the rocky islet to the southward of Cape
D'Aguilar, S.W. southerly ; and Cape D'Aguilar lighthouse bears S.W. by
W. f W. distant 8^ cables.

Directions. — Vessels bound to the southward through Tathong Channel,
and wishing to pass between Bokhara Rocks and Hong Kong Island, should,
after passing to the eastward of Tathong Rock, bring the summit of Beaufort
Island in line with Cape D'Aguilar bearing S.S.W., and steer with that
mark on, until Tathong Rock is in line with the left extreme ot Taitoo Island
N. \ W., which mark should be kept on, until abreast of Cape D'Aguilar.
If passing to the westward of Tathong Ruck, the latter mark should be
brought on as suon as convenient after passing that rock.

Vessels passing to the eastward of Bokhara Rocks should not open Ta-
thong Rock to the northward of Pottinger Peak, until the southern extreme
of Tytam peninsula is open South of Cape D'Aguilar.

The most direct route for steam vessels leaving Hong Kong by Lyemun
Pass and through Tathong Channel is to pass West of Tathong and Bokhara
Rocks, and, after passing Cape D'Aguilar steer so as to pass midway be-
tween Putoy and Sunkong Islands, where there is a good channel with 15 to
20 fathoms, mud.

Vessels having run out from Hong Kong Road through the Lyemun Pass,
and wishing for anchorage either for the night or in consequence of bad
weather, will find a good berth in the bay on the North side of Tamtu in 6
fathoms ; but bear in mind that the water shoals to 2f fathoms at 3 cables'
lengths from the Joss House on the North side of the bay.

Tamtu or Tunglung Island, 820 feet above the sea and 3 miles in circum-
ference, is separated from the mainland by a channel called Fotaumun Pass,
of 3 fathoms water, which is only 1 ^ cable wide between the rocks which lie
off both points in the channel. S.E. \ E. distant 4 cables from the North
point of Tamtu lies a sunken rock, from which the West end of Steep Island
(the first small islet to the north-eastward) just shows clear of a remarkable
headland, Yih Bluff, bearing N.N.E. ^ E.

Steep Islet is IJ mile northward of the eastern entrance of the Fotaumun
Pass, and 4 cables from the shore ; at IJ mile farther North are the Trio

I. A. 6 L

994 THE COAST C)Y miXA.

Islets. There is an indentation in the coast, with 8 fathoms water, "between
Trio and Steep, but it is exposed to easterly winds and swell.

NINEPIN GROUP lies 4 miles eastward of the Fotaumun Pass. The two
largest islets bear North and South of each other, and the channel between
is 2 cables wide. The southern face of the South Ninepin is a precipitous
cliff, 330 ft. high ; cff its S.W. side is a smaller islet, with a peaked rock off
its North point. The surface of the North Ninepin is nearly of the same
elevation. An islet lies off its S.W. extreme.

Ninepin Rock, or East Ninepin, 222 ft. high, is nearly a mile eastward
of the North Ninepin, and assumes the appearance that its name indicates
only when seen in a N."W. or S.E. direction ; otherwise the name is liable to
mislead.

One-foot Rock, lying S. f W., not quite 7 cables from the Ninepin, has
only a foot over it at low water. The South end of South Ninepin on with
Fotaumun Pass, W. f N., leads South of it.

North Rock, lying N.W. JN., distant 9 cables from the Ninepin, is nearly
awash. There is a reef, which breaks at low water, nearly a cable's length
S.E. of it.

At the Ninepin group it is high water, full and change, at 10*" 0", and the
rise is 5 ft.

PORT SHELTER. — To the northward of the Ninepin group the mainland
forms a deep bay, containing Port Shelter and Eocky Harbour. The western
of the two, Port Shelter, runs back 5^ miles to the northward, and its head
is separated from tii« S.W. portion of Mirs Bay by an isthmus I5 mile
wide, overlooked by the Hunchback Hills, 2,315 feet above the sea, which
with Shar^ Peak, 1,540 f^et high, on the West side of the entrance to Mirs
Bay, form conspicuous marks by which this portion of the coast may be
recognized.

When steering for Port Shelter, pass eastward of Trio and Table Islets, as
rocks extend 3 cables from the point to the westward of them. Nearly a
mile northward of Table Islet is the southern point of Jin Island, with a
peaked rock lying 2 cables southward of it ; and E. f N. rather more than a
cable's length from Peaked Rock, is a rock awash at high water.

Shelter Island, 1^ mile N.W. of Table Islet, should likewise be left to
the westward when steering for Port Shelter, as the ground is foul between
it and the main. There is good anchorage on the N.W. side of Shelter
Island in 3 fathoms, but give the North point of the island a berth of a cable
and avoid the 9-ft. patch, lying 6 cables to the northward in the centre of the
bay. Southerly, distant 1 cable from the West point of Shelter, is a rock
aw ash at low water ; and there is a patch of 2l fathoms lying half a mile
westward of it,

ROCKY HARBOUR is formed by Keui and Jin Islands on the West, and
by High, Basalt, and Bluff Islands to the East and S.E. Anchorage will be

FUXG BAY— MIRS BAT. 995

found in the N.E. monsoon on its eastern side, in the neighbourhood of a
email cove northward of Green Islet, where there is a mandarin station and
a village. Inside the cove the depth is 6 fathoms, but the space is confined,
owing to sunken rocks. In the S.W. monsoon vessels will be better shel-
tered by anchoring to the N.W. of Day Islet.

Three-feet Patch.— Midway between Day Islet and the North end of Bluff
Island is a rocky 3-ft. patch, from which the "West point of Bluff Island is
on with the summit of North Ninepin, S. ^ E., and the southern summit of
Day Islet bears W.N.W. The North Ninepin and Bluff Islands touching
leads westward of it ; and the West end of the islet lying off the S.W. end
of North Ninepin, in one with the West point of Bluff Island, leads east-
ward ; also, a vessel will be northward of it when Pyramid Rock opens clear
of the N.E. extreme of Bluff Island, S.E. by E. | E.

Three-fathoms Patch lies 6 cables northward of the 3-ft. patch, with the
summit of Day Islet W.S. W., Pyramid Rock S.E. J S., and G:reen Islet, the
small islet on the eastern shore, E. % N., and distant 3 cables.

The channel between Basalt Island and Bluff Island is 4 cables wide, and
has 5 fathoms in it at low water. The former island is 8 cables long. North
and South, and 572 ft. above the sea ; the southern faces of both islands are
very precipitous.

The channel between Town Island and Basalt Island is also 4 cables wide,
but it should not be used without a leading wind, or in a handy vessel, as
the chow-chow water, or whirling eddies, might lead them into difficulty.
These ripplings, occasioned by the meeting of adverse currents, are fre-
quently so violent as to render a vessel unmanagele when within their in-
fluence.

S^iffh Island, 7^ miles in circumference and 910 ft. above the sea, is sepa-
rated from Town Island by a channel of 3^ fathoms water, but in some places
it is barely a cable wide. At 1^ cable eastward of the latter is Sole Island,
so called from its being perforated.

FUNG BAY. — Conic Isle, lying not quite a cable from the shore, N.N.E.
2^ miles from Hole Island, has immediately westward of it a small bay 3^
cables wide and three-quarters of a mile deep, which might be used in the
N.E. monsoon. Fung Bay, the next inlet to the northward, is 1| mile wide,
and has two islets and a rock in the middle of it ; but it is too much exposed
to the eastward to be of any use.

MIRS BAY is a deep inlet 15 miles to the N.E. of Hong Kong, and it«
entrance, between Fung Head on the West and Mirs Point on the East, is
5^ miles wide; its extent northerly is 11 miles, and in an East and West
direction IS miles. Gau-tau. a rocky islet, 90 ft. high, lies about 2 miles
within the entrance, and S.W. by W. about half a mile from it is a rocky
ledge, part of which is always unrovered.

The hills near Mirs Fomt rise to the height of 1,200 ft.., and juat off" its

996 THE COAST OF CHINA.

South extreme is a small islet, named Griffin Roch. To the eastward of the
islet are some rocks, at a cable's length from the shore ; the first point to the
northward of them is perforated.

Grass Island. — The point on the "West side of entrance of Mirs Bay, \\
mile N. by W. of Fung Head, has two islets off it, and from thence the
western coast of the bay trends suddenly to the westward, then northerly 1^-
mile, where there is an opening 3 cables wide leading into Long Harbour ;
the navigable channel, however, has only 2 fathoms in it, and is barely a
cable wide, with shoal water extending from both shores.

On the North side of the opening lies Grass Island, 420 ft. high ; and at
3^ cables eastward of this island is a large black rock, named North Gau,
with a reef, awash at high water, lying N.W. i N. 4 cables from it. There
is also a very dangerous 6-ft. rock, on which the German war ship Cyclop
struck between Grass and North Gow Islets. It lies about a cable westward
of the islet which lies near the West side of North Gow.

Port Island, 420 ft. high, is nearly 6 cables northward of Grass Island,
and its N.E. point, which is narrow, projects 3 cables from the body of the
island. There is a convenient watering place on the northern side of this
island.

LONG HARBOUR runs 3i miles in a southerly direction from its en-
trance, 6 cables wide, which is a mile S.S.W. of Port Island. Both shores
are steep-to, with the exception of the S. W. end of Grass Island, where there
is a cove with a rock off its North point ; to the northward of this rock, and
half a cable from the shore is a rocky patch of 3; fathoms ; some rocks also,
which show at low tide, extend nearly a cable's length from high-water mark
at the S.W. end of the island.

Jones Cove, the next inlet westward of Long Harbour, is a mile deep,
N.N.E. and S.S.W., and 3 cables wide ; but it, as well as Long Harbour, is
open to a considerable swell from the N.N.E.

Tolo Channel, leading into Tolo Harbour, is the next inlet westward of
Jones Cove. Its entrance, between Port Island and Bluff Head, is nearly 1 \
mile wide, and from thence the channel trends S.W. by W. 7 miles to White
Head, forming a sound, with shores steep-to, the depth varying from 6 to 14
fathoms on the North shore.

Withing the channel, at 3J miles from Bluff Head, is Knoh Reef, with a
fiat reef 2 cables to the S.W. of it ; and 2^ miles farther in lies Btish Reef,
North of which, 3 J cables, is Harbour Island. Although there is a navi-
gable channel on either side of these reefs, the one northward of them is
preferred.

At White Head (which is a peninsula with the Hunchback Hills, 2,315 ft.
high, with very precipitous face, rising immediately behind it), the Tolo
Channel separates into three arms, Tide Cove to the S.W., Tolo JIarhour to
the N.W., and Plover Cove to the N.E. Plover Cove would in all proba-

MIES BAY. 997

bility be found the most eligible place to ride out a typboon ; it runs back
21 miles to the eastward beyond Harbour Island, and carries a depth of 6 to
4 fathoms.

Round Island is N. W. by N. 2f miles from Port Island, and is the eastern-
most of an extensive group lying in the N.W. part of Mirs Bay ; the largest
of the group are Double, Crescent, and Crooked Islands. Double Island, the
southernmost, lies N.W. 6 cables from Bluff Head, and the channel, which
separates its S.W. point from the main, is only large enough for boats.

On the N.W. side of Crooked Island is a large village, and on the East
end a remarkable peaked head, between which and the mainland to the
northward, the depths are 9 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the West
side of the island is a good anchorage named Crooked Harbour ; and to the
southward, formed by Crescent and Double Island, is a secure basin, named
Double Haven, the northern entrance into which is 3 cables wide ; within
it the depth is 7 fathoms.

PENG-CHATJ ISLAND, 3 miles in circumference and 148 ft. high, is in
the N.E. corner of Mirs Bay, N. \ E. 4^ miles from Gau-tau. The geolo-
gical formation of this island is totally different from the adjacent land, being
alluvial, shale stones forming its beaches. The distance between it and the
main land to the eastward is rather more than a mile, forming a convenient
anchorage, sheltered from all winds. E.N.E. from the island is the remark-
able peak, East Cone, 750 ft. high, overlooking Typung Bay, the distance
across being IJ mile, and the land tut little elevated. Under the peak is
the village of Namoa, and in the bay South of it is a peaked rock and a
sunken reef.

Anchorage. — The N.W. part of Mirs Bay, northward of Crooked Island,
gradually shoals to the westward, and affords good anchorage. The northern
portion of the shores of the bay are steep-to. Anchorage in the N.E. mon-
soon will be found all along the eastern shore of the bay to the southward
of Peng-chau ; but the number of fishing platforms on stakes in 8 and 9
fathoms water render the navigation awkward in the dark. There is an-
chorage in south-west winds to the westward of the South Gau, in 8 or 9
fathoms.

Tides. — In Tide Cove, in the S.W. part of Mirs Bay, it is high water, full
and change, at lO*" 0"", and springs rise about 65 ft. ; but during neaps the
water remains nearly at the same level. With the flood, there is a great
indraught into Mirs Bay and Pocky Harbour, which must be guarded
against in shaping a course from the Tuni-ang Group to pass outside the
Ninepin Group.

Directions. — As the ebb stream runs to the southward along the western
shore at the entrance of Mirs Bay, a vessel working to windward with a
S.W. wind will get to the westward speedily by keeping near the land passing

998 THE COAST OF CHINA.

between the Ninepin Group and Tamtu ; but as soon as the Lema Channel
opens out she will meet with a set to the eastward.

During August and part of September, if a vessel is eastward of the
Lema Island, she will find it difficult to proceed along shore to the west-
■ward if the wind is from that quarter ; she ought therefore either to stand
off to the southward for two or three days (if ned,r full and change of moon,
■when bad weather may be apprehended), or anchor in Mirs or Harlem Bay
for an easterly wind, which in these months usually happens every few days,
close in with the coast.

TUNI-ANG GROUP.— From Mirs Point, the South coast of the peninsula
separating Mirs and Bias Bays trends NE. by E. 8 miles to Teyih Point, and
between are two sandy bays, off the westernmost of which, at 4 cables from
the shore, is Coast Islet, having 4 fathoms water between it and the land.
At 6 miles eastward of Mirs Point, fronting the peninsula, is the Tuni-ang
group, consisting of eight islets, including Single Island and Acong Eock.
The largest island, the northernmost, is 5 miles in circumference, and its
summit rises like a cone to the height of 960 feet ; off its western end are
two islets.

Peah Hock, lying a quarter of a mile westward of Net Island, with 4 and
5 fathoms water between, appears like two islets with a shingle beach con-
necting them. N.W. i W., 4 cables from Peak Rock, is a ledge of rocks,
the northern edge of which is always visible ; and between them is a reef
which breaks at low water.

Immediately southward of Tuni-ang Island are three islets, called by the
Chinese Saman (or three passages), which form a good harbour, named
Samun Road, sheltered from all winds, except those from W.N.W., round by
the "West to S.W. by S. Samun, the southern islet, is 3 miles in circumfer-
ence, and distant 1 mile from Tuni-ang ; the channel between it and Cone
Islet to the northward has 9 and 10 fathoms water. The passage between
Cone and Tuni-ang is crooked, and has only 2^ fathoms water.

The Acong is a remarkable pyramid rock lying 6 cables N.E. of Single
Island, with 15 fathoms water between them. There is a rock with 16 feet
over it lying N.N.E. f E. about a mile from the Acong, on which bearing it
is on with the S.E. point of Single Island. When on this rock, which rises
so abruptly that there was great difficulty in finding it, Cone Islet bore N.W.
"by W. J W., and was in one with a remarkable gap in Tuni-ang.

Anchorage. — In the N.E. monsoon the trading junks anchor in 9 fathoms
southward of Net Island and Peaked Rock, and abreast a fort on Tuni-ang ;
but the ground is foul within 2 cables' lengths of the fort point.

Middle Rocks. — N.E. i E. from the summit of Tuni-ang is the Middle Rock
just awash at high water. From it the Acong Rock bears S. ^ W. ; Bate
Island, off the East point of Bias Bay, N.N.E. ; and Lokaup Island N.W.
by N. 1 miles. At 3 cables S.W. of this rock is a reef which breaks only at

BIAS BAY. 999

low water, and from which the East end of Cake lelet (on the East side of
Lokaup) is in line with the Pillars, N. by W. | W.

The channel between Tuni-ang Island and Teyih Point, the West point of
the entrance to Bias Bay, is U mile wide ; boih shores are eteep-to, with the
exception of the reef, already mentioned, lying off Peak Rock near theN.W.
point of Tuni-ang, and a rocky ledge extending south-westerly from the first
point East of a remarkable white rock on the North shore. The hills on this
side attain an elevation of 2, GOO and 2,800 feet.

BIAS BAY, a capacious and deep inlet similar to Mirs Bay, has a chain
of islands fronting its western shore, which is indented by two large bays, at
the head of the principal of which is Typung Uarbour. This harbour, so
named from the walled town of Typung on its northern shore, although con-
tracted is capable of affording good shelter for moderate-sized vessels, except
with easterly winds, when the anchorage under Lokaup Island should be
preferred. On the northern side of the harbour there is a smooth conical
hill, off which a shoal commences extending half a mile from the shore ;
the southern side, which is bold-to, must therefore be kept aboard. Vessels
drawing more than 15 ft. should not proceed farther westerly than the third
point on the South side, as the bottom of the harbour is shoal.

Bumbell Bay, the next inlet northward of Typung Harbour, runs back
westerly 6 miles from Big Island, and carries a general depth of about 3
fathoms.

Fan-lo-Jcong Sarbour, in the north-eastern pait of Bias Bay, has an entrance
1 J mile wide, with a depth in mid-channel of 4 fathoms. The village of
Fan-lo-kong is on the northern shore. This will brobably be found the best
anchorage in Bias Bay in a typhoon.

Pagoda Island bears from Tsang-chau N.W. by W. J W. 4 miles. The
water shoals towards Pagoda ; to the W.S.W., 3 cables off, are some rooks.

Lokaup Island, the southern of the chain of islands in Bias Bay, has on its
South end some pyramidal rocks. It bears N. by E. 6 miles from Tuni-ang,
and the channel between it and the West point of the entrance of the bay
is 3 miles wide, with a depth of 9 fathoms. The island is about 2 miles
long, and nearly separated in two places ; the highest part, 330 ft. above the
sea, is near the South end. There is anchorage on either side of it, accord-
ing to the prevailing winds.

There are six islets around Lokaup, three on the West, two on the North,
and one on the East side. The North islet, named the Pillars, is remarkable
from the two square pillars on its South side ; there is a reef off the West
end of the islet South of the Pillars.

Middle Group. — About a mile northward of the Pillars is Middle Group,
consisting of six islets. Green Island, 254 feet high, the southernmost, has
an islet off its West end ; and at three-quarters of a mile northward of it is
Eeef Islet, to the !S.E. of which is a I'eef that breaks at low water. There is

1000 THE COAST OF CHINA.

also another rock awash at low water, lying North 3 cables from Reef Islet,
and there is another N. i W. Ij miles from Eeef Islet, and N.W. i N.
from Eed Islet.

Harbour Group, consisting of nine islets, is not quite a mile northward of
Middle Group. The southernmost are two small islets named the Twins, to
the N.E. of which, at 2 cables, is Shoal Island, having rocky ground extend-
ing north-westerly 3 cables from it. At a quarter of a mile westward of the
Twins is Tree-a-top Islet, and westward of it, at half a mile, is a sugar-loaf
shaped island. Narrow Island is three-quarters of a mile long. North and
South. Round Island lies rather more than 2 cables northward of Narrow
Island, with a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms between them ; to the northward of
it at 2 cables lies a flat rock nearly a-wash and steep- to. N. by W. 6 cables
from Round Island is Cone Islet, a conical rock surrounded by reefs; vessels
wishing to anchor to the westward of Narrow Island will find this channel
or that between Tree-a-top Islet and Sugar Loaf Island the best to
enter by.

To the westward of Sugar Loaf is Big Island, oS the North face of which
is a small islet, and further North a flat rock, with a reef, which shows only
at low water ; when upon this reef the highest part of Narrow Island bears
S.E. by E., and Nobby Reef N.E. by E. To the N.W. of Big Island, 4
cables, is Sand Patch, a low rock surrounded by sand ; between it and the
island there are 3| fathoms water. There is also a rock awash at high water
on the South side of Big Island.

BIAS POINT, the eastern point of the entrance of Bias Bay, is fronted
to nearly a mile by rocks, between which and the land the channel is unsafe,
but the passage between them and the rock lying off the S.E. end of
Bate Island may be used, being 8 cables wide, with a depth inside of 4^
and 5 fathoms.

Bate Island is 8 cables long, North and South, and half a mile wide ;
besides the rock off its S.E. end, there is another awash at high water, lying
N.N.E. 6 cables from its North end, with the South point of Lokaup S.W.
by W. h W., and the rock off the S.E. end of Bate Island E. by S.

From Bias Point the eastern coast of the bay trends northerly 8^ miles to
Tsang-chau Island. There is anchorage in the N.E. monsoon between Bate
and Triple Island, lying 2^ miles to the northward. Tsang-chau is a low
flat islet with a smaller one S.E. of it, lying 6 miles northward of Triple.

MENBOZA ISLAND, 480 feet high, and 2f miles in circumference, bears
S.E. by E. \ E. 7^ miles from Bate Island, and a vessel will find shelter from
a S.W. wind on its northern side. Off its western side is a small islet sepa-
rated from it by a channel a cable wide, and of 9 feet water. Tsincoe Island,
167 feet high, lies 6 cables northward of Mendoza, with 11 fathoms water
between ; near its centre is a remarkable cleft.

FOKAI POINT, bearing N.E. by E. 3| miles from Mendoza, is the South

HARLEM BAY— SAM-CHAU INLET. 1001

extreme of a promontory connected to the main by a low sandy isthmus ; the
land near the point is high, and has the appearance of an island when viewed
from eastward or westward. On the summit of the Fokai Hills is an arti-
ficial mound 670 ft. above the sea, and on the hill over the S.W. point is a
large fort. On the East side of the isthmus are three rocky islets ; and E.
by N., 8 cables from the northernmost islet, is a reef showing at low water,
from which the East extreme of Fokai Point bears S. by W. ^ W., and the
Pauk Piah Pock E.S.E.

HARLEM BAY, formed on the "West side of the Fokai promontory, affords
secure anchorage in the N.E. monsoon ; but it cannot be considered safe
during a typhoon, when the winds are liable to shift suddenly to different
points of the compass. A good berth will be found northward of 'Hebe Islet
in any convenient depth of water. This islet is flat-topped, and 70 ft. high,
and a ledge of rocks, which covers at high water, extends 3 cables north-
eastward of it. The natives here are not so shy of intercourse as at other
places along the coast ; they will supply fish and vegetables.

At 6 cables westward of the West extreme of Fokai Point, and 10 or 12
feet above the sea, is Middle Rock, which may be passed on either side. On
the western foot of the Fokai Hills is a fort, with a tall chimney on the hill
behind it. S.W. by W. 3 cables from Hebe Islet lies a rocky patch, of 3^-
fathoms water, bearing North from Middle Eock, and N.W. I N. from the
West extreme of Fokai Point.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Tuni-ang Island (page 998),
at 8'' 0" ; at Tsang-chau Island in Bias Bay at S** 30" ; and at Hebe Islet iu
Harlem Bay (two days before full moon) at lO*" 0". In the month of April
the current in this neighbourhood sets constantly to the westward, its rate
increasing upon the flood, but did not exceed a knot. When, however, tha
monsoon drift current recedes from the coast, the tidal influences prevail,
and it is commonly reported that the flood stream sets westward and ebb
eastward, or directly the reverse of their set North of Breaker Point.

Directions. — Bound to Bias Bay from the eastward, pass about a mile west-
ward of Mendoza Island, and then steer N.W. by W. for the opening
between Lokaup and Bate Islands, shoaling from 13 to 10 fathoms water
over muddy bottom. From thence either proceed up the bay to an anchor-
age in 5 fathoms, about Ij miles from the eastern shore, 3 miles northward
of Triple Island, or to the southward of Lokaup to an anchorage in the bny,
or in Typung Harbour. There are several populous villages on the eastern
shore where no doubt refreshments could be obtained.

If bound to Harlem Bay, round Fokai Point about half a mile off in 13
fathoms water, and either haul up between the shore and Middle Eock, or
pass between that rock and Tsincoe Island.

SAM-CHAU INLET.— From Fokai Point the coast trends N.E. by N. 12

I. A. 6 AI

100-2 THE COAST OF CHINA.

miles to i?o«« Head, and at the distance of 9 miles is Coad Met, lying: 4 cables
off shore. Shoal water, over rocky bottom, extends 6 cables southward of
this islet, and here, close to a flat rocky head, is an opening a cable wide
into the extensive inlet of Sam-chau, the channel, carrying 5 and 6 fathoms,
beino- close to a narrow cliff on the southern shore ; but in strong easterly
winds the sea breaks across it. The entrance bears W. by N. ^ N. from
Siting Islet, and E. \ N. from Harlem Peak, which, being 2,070 ft. above the
eea, forms a conspicuous landmark. S.S.W. \ W. nearly 2^ miles from Coast
Islet is a sunhm rock, from which Si-ting bears East nearly 6 miles, and
Harlem Peak N.W. h W.

Commander P. Cracroft, of H.M.S. Reynard, who visited this inlet in chase
of pirates, says, " The mouth of the inlet is but little wider than the breadth
of a ship ; there is also an inner bar with an equally narrow passage ; and
across both these bars the tide runs 5 knots. The depth in the channel
varies from 6 to 8 fathoms, and deepens to 10 fathoms above the upper bar,
where there is ample room for a vessel to swing ; but such is the intricacy
of the navigation, that a personal examination should be made, and the state
of the tide carefully ascertained before attempting the entrance."

PEDRO BLANCO ROCK {Ty-sing-cham of the Chinese), in lat. 22° 19^
N., long. 115° 7' E., when bearing North appears as two rocks; the summit
\% of a white colour. It is bold to approach, having 20 fathoms close to the
southward, and 18 fathoms to the northward, decreasing gradually to 13
fathoms in the neighbourhood of the Pauk Piah Eock, which bears from it
N.N.W., distant 15 miles.

The Pauk Piah is a flat rock, 4 feet (Capt. Morant, E.N., says 24 feet)
above high water, from which the summit of the Fokai HiUs bears W. | N.
7 miles.

WHALE ROCKS.— S. by W. 2^ miles from the Pauk Piah are the two
Whale Eocks, rising abruptly from the depth of 12 fathoms, and upon which
the sea sometimes breaks. From them, the West extreme of Fokai Point
is on with the summit of Bate Island, W. by N. \ N., the summit of Fakai
bears N.W. by W. ^ W., 7 miles, and the summit of Mendoza West a little
northerly.

Tung-Ting and Si-Ting are two rocky islets about 50 ft. above the sea,
lying S.E. | S. and N.W. 5 N. from each other, distant 1| mile apart; there
are sunken and detached rocks around them both.

N.W. by W. li mile from Si-ting is a rocky patch which sometimes
breaks. There is also the ISingle R(x:k which breaks only at low water,
or when there is a heavy sea, and from which Si-tang bears S.W. by W.
i W. ; Tung-ting S.W. by S. ; Hat Islet N. by E., and Harlem Peak, W.,
northerly.

HONG-HAI BAY, -about 15 miles N.E. of Fokai Point, is extensive, but
in the upper part the water shoals to 6 and 4 fathoms, and it is open to

TT-SAMI INLET, ETC. 1003

8.W. and South winds. There are several islands in the bay, the largest of
which, Hong-hai, is in the middle of it.

Vessels are recommended not to pass to the westward of Tung-ting and
Si-ting, nor into the N.W. part of this Bay, as they will find a heavier sea
there than outside ; there is, also, usually a long ground swell near Inside
Island, rendering it advisable not to stand farther in than Hong-hai Island.

In Hong-hai Bay is an inlet, not identified, but probably that which is 9
miles N.E. of Fokai Point, which was visited by Captain P. Cracroft, R.N.,
in H.M.S. Reynard, 184 9. Its bar extends nearly across the entrance, leav-
ing an opening, on the South side, of very little more than a ship's breadth.
There is an inner bar also on the South side, with an equally narrow pas-
sage, hugging a point which resembles "Devil Point,' at the entrance of
Hamoaze ; and over these bars the tide sets, at springs, with the great velo-
city of or 6 knots.

The depths in the channel vary from 4 to 8 fathoms, deepening to 10 fa-
thoms above the inner bar, where there is ample room for a ship to swing,
but the n.^vigation is so intricate that a careful examination should be
made before attempting the entrance, and the state of tae tide correctly
ascertained.

Eong-hai Island, bearing N.E. 5 E. 8 miles from Si-ting, is half a mile
long, East and West, 3 cables wide, 240 feet high, and has shelter on its
northern side from southerly winds. Two rocks, visible at low water, lie 3
cables from the shore, S. by E, f E. from its summit, ffat Islet is a peaked
rock 2f miles westward of Hong-hai. It is called by the Chinese Ee-sin-she
(fowl's heart), which it more resembles than a hat; there are detached rocks
about it. Inside Island, 5 miles N.W. of Hong-hai, is 460 ft. high, a mile
long North and South, and but little more than a cable wide. At 3 cables
otf its S.W. end are some detached rocks.

Shoal Bay is formed at the head of Hong-hai Bay, 3 miles N.N.E. of
Hong-hai Island. Its entrance is 2 miles wide, and within the water shoals
to less than 3 fathoms. At three-quarters of a mile eastward of Club Point,
the East point of the entrance to Shoal Bay, there is a rocky ledge, part of
■which is alwaj'S above water.

TY-SAMI INLET, bearing E. :J N. 9 miles from Hong-hai Island, has an
entrance channel half a mile wide, with 2 J fathoms in it at low water. The
northern shore of the chnnnel is shoal-to, and rather more than half a mile
ofi" the beach are some rocks, which show at low tide. Ty-sami Mound, 970
feet above the sea, is an artificial cone on the highest part of the hills near
the eastern point of Hong-hai Bay.

In Hong-hai Bay it is high water, full and change, at 10*^ 0", and the rise
is 6^ ft.

Goat Island, lying S.E. 3 miles from Tsiech Point, the eastern outer
entrance point ol Hong-hai Bay, is the southernmost and largest of a uume-

1004 THE COAST OF CHINA.

rou8 group, amongst which there are no navigable channels. S.W. ^ W.
from its summit, and S.S.E. J E. from Tysami Mound, there is a dangerous
rock, which shows only when the tide is low and the wind high. At rather
more than a mile inland from the beach northward of Goat Island, is the
walled town of Tsieching. There is good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon
on the N.W. side of Goat Island, which, with the group of islets northward
of it, shelters well from the heavy sea. This roadstead is much used by
opium vessels, which approach as close to the shelving beach as the depth of
water will allow.

Reef Islets lie S.E. by E. 3 miles from Goat Island. The southern or
largest islet has reefs extending a cable's length in a southerly direction from
its East end. In using the channel between Goat Island and these islets,
take care to avoid a sunken roch on which the sea breaks at low water, bearing
E. i N. 1| mile from the summit of the island, and N.W. f W. 2 miles from
the North end of the islets.

Vessels may pass between the Eeef Islets and some rocks awash named
Middle Reef, lying If mile to the northward, the depth being 7 and 8 fathoms,
but bear in mind that reefs extend rather more than 2 cables northerly from
the islets, the northern danger bearing W. ^ S. from Chelang Point. It will
not be prudent to pass in-shore of Middle Reef.

CHELANG POINT, 5 miles E. by N. \ N. from the Eeef Islets, is very
remarkable, of moderate height, composed of red sand, with many ragged
rocks scattered over it. The point has two islets and a reef close ofiP it,
and the depth is 13 fathoms within a mile of the outer islet, which is 80
feet high.

On the western extremity of this headland is a fort, and westward of the
fort a small bay, which will afford shelter in the N.E. monsoon ; but a
sunken rock, with only a foot water over it, lies N.W. by W. 5J cables from
the fort. Flat Roch is If mile W. by N. from Chelang Point, and there is a
small sunken rock lying N.W. from it, and West from the fort. The land
on either side of Chelang Point for some distance is of a remarkable red
colour with black mounds.

Kin-yu or Eemsiie is a rocky islet, half a mile long N.E. and 8.W., lying
N.E. ^ N. 3| miles from Chelang Point, and under its highest or N.E. part
there is a high rock. Its shores are bold-to, but the islet is too small to
afford shelter.

HIE-CHE-CHIN BAY, formed between Pauhhao Point on the West, and
Tongmi Point on the East, has 7 to bh fathoms water at entrance, shoaling to
3 or 3^ fathoms within a mile of its head, over soft muddy bottom. It affords
shelter from westerly and northerly winds, and from the N.E. monsoon, but
is quite exposed to the southward and S.E. ; the eastern side of the bay is
high and mountainous. The village of Kinsiang stands in the N.E. bight of

HIE-CnE-CHIN BAY. 1005

the bay, immediately under Round Hill. Two rivers empty themselves at
the head of the bay.

Near Tongmi Point is Chino Peak, a remarkable conical hill, 455 ft. high,
■which, with the islets of Tung-ki and Si-ki, render this side of the bay easy
to recognise when well within it. But when in the offing some have, in
approaching Chino Bay, mistaken at first for Chino Peak, Round Hill, on
the northern shore of the bay, which is also a remarkable conical hill, 1,456
feet high. When first seen, Round Hill rises like an island, and is a good,
mark when approaching from the south-westward. The land about Chino
Bay, when first made from the same direction, appears of a somewhat uni-
form height,

Tung'-ki.— Chino Peak bears N.W. I N. nearly 2^ miles from Tung-ki,
which is 18 ft. above the sea, having some detached rocks on its eastern side,
and three rocks awash at low water, half a cable from its N.W. side.

Suwonada Rock, upon 'vhich a steamer of that name struck, August,
1969, lies in nearly mid-channel between Tongmi Point and the Tung-ki
Rucks. It consists of two or three pinnacle rocks, with 11 ft. on them at low
water springs, and 8 or 9 fathoms close to. This dangerous patch lies
N. by W. f W., 4^ cables from the West extreme of the Tung-ki Rocks ;
Tongmi Point bearing N.W. by W. \ W., and Si-ki Rock S.W. by W.

No indication of these rocks is afforded by discoloured water, and it is
recommended that the passage between Tung-ki Rocks and the mainland
should not be used for the purposes of navigation. A mile North of Tung-
ki, and East three-quarters of a mile from Tongmi Point, is a cluster of
rocks nearly awash.

Si-ki Islet, 80 ft. high, rises abruptly, and is cleft at the summit ; Tung-
ki bears from it E.N.E. 3 miles, and Chino Peak N.N.E. I E. Between the
two islets the soundings are 1 1 and 1 2 fathoms.

Paukshao Bay, on the western side of Hie-che-chin Bay, affords good
shelter, unless the wind comes eastward of South, there being 5 fathoms
water with Paukshao Point bearing westward of South. Paukshao Puint is
of moderate height, with numerous rocks scattered over its surface. Tha
other point to the westward has a high battery on it. There is said to be a
sunken rock lying N.E. about half a cable's length from Paukshao Point.

Chino Bay is on the eastern side of Hie-che-chin Bay, to the northward of
Chino Peak, and on its shore there is a furt and small village, abreast which
the water is shual, the 2-fathoms line of soundings being half a mile off the
land. West from Chino Peak is the Chmo Reef, extending 4 cables from the
shore ; the outer rock does not show at high tide unless there is a consider-
able swell.

A dangerous coral rock, on which the Sarah Lucy struck, lies 8J cables
S.E. of the Yellow Stone. There are only 7 ft. water on it, 4^ fathoms, mud,

1006 THE COAST OF CHINA.

close-to. To pass westward of the rock, keep the East White Stone open
westward of the Yellow Stone.

The best anchorage in Chino Bay is in 3f fathoms farther northward about
East of the Yellow Stone, which is the southernmost of all the rocks, with
the exception of the Sarah Lucy, in the N.E. part of the bay. The walled
town of Keishi-wei, bearing E. by N. 3 miles frum the Yellow Stone, will
be seen over the low land from this anchorage ; there is a creek leading up
to it which will admit junks at low water.

Between the Yellow Stone and the rocks three-quarters of a mile N.N.W.
of it, there is a channel of 4^ fathoms water : but vessels are recommended
not to approach that part of the bay northward of the Yellow Stone, as there
are several sunken rocks. Vessels drawing less than 18 ft. may stand into
the bay to the northward of the West White Stone, where the depth is 3^
to 2\ fathoms, the water shoaling gradually towards the beach.

HUTUif G POINT.— From Tongmi Point the coast takes an E by N. ^ N.
direction about 15^ miles to Cupchi Point, and at the distance of 4^ miles is
Black Rod- Point, with black rocks off it, and a square white rock on its
S. W. side. N.W. 1 J cable from the White Eock is a sunken rock.

About 2f miles eastward of Black Rock Point is the mouth of the River
Hutung, which falls into the sea on the West side of Hutung Point, but it
has only 6 ft. water over the bar. On its South bank is a fort, and close to
the fort a remarkable dome-shaped building, apparently intended for a fire
beacon ; this is a good mark in hazy weather, being so easily recognized,
indeed there is nothing resembling it on this part of the coast. S.S.E. 1^
mile from the fort is a small islet, surrounded by reefs and deta hed rocks,
one of which, to the eastward, is of a curious shape, and is named Figura
Rock.

At 3 miles eastward of Hutung Point the hills come down to the beach,
and on one of their peaks is a conspicuous knob. At a mile off the beach is
a flat rock with sunken dangers between it and the shore ; there is also a
rock awash to the S.E. of it.

CUPCHI POINT has a rugged summit, 210 ft. high, and near the sea
there is a dilapidated fort. South 1^ mile from the point is Turtle Rock, 14
feet above high water, and inside of it are two islets and four patches of rock.
The junks pass between Turtle Rock and the rock next to the northward,
though sunken rocks lie westward of both, and much discoloured water,
which, however, helps to detect them. The U.S.S. Palos discovered off
Turtle Rock a shoal, with only 2 fathoms of water. From the shoal Cupchi
Point bore N. f E. 3 miles, and the hill marked on the chart as 726 ft. hijjh,
N.W. J W. As this danger lies in the track of navigation, vessels should
be cautious to give it a wide berth, when passing the Turtle Rock.

Between the islets and the point the channel is 2 cables wide, but the
bottom is rocky and uneven, and a rock on which the steamer Five Brothers

TUNGAO ROAD. 1007

\ras wrecked, February 28th, 1859, lies 60 fathoms South of the point. The
least water on this rock is 12 ft., and as many sunken dangers are in its
vicinity, it would be imprudent for a stranger to attempt the passage. A
ledge of rocks extends 2 cables from the point westward of the fort, its outer
end breaking at low water.

A remarkable little black conical hill, named Black Mount, rises 230 ft.
above the sea from a red sand down, at 4^ miles N.E. of Cupchi Point, and
half a mile from the beach. Eeefs extend half a mile from the shore along
this part of the coast.

Anchorage. — There is good anchorage during the N.E. monsoon to the
southward of the Shag Eock, which lies half a mile off shore N.N.W. of
Cupchi Point ; it is 3 ft. above high water, and has 2 J fathoms around it,
except on its S.E. side, whf-re there is a projecting reef. On the main,
abreast this rock, is a fort standing on the East side of entrance to a river
leading to the walled town oi Kiahtsz. The town is IJ mile from the fort,
and southward of it is a pagoda two stories high. There are 9 ft. at low
water on the bar of the river.

Nearer the entrance there is a second fort over a point, and a martello
tower on the sandy point opposite, to the southward of which, sand-banks
extend more than half a mile. Situated exactly in mid-channel between
these sand-banks and the inner fort point is a dangerous rock, steep-to,
which uncovers at low water, and may be passed on either side.

TUNGAO ROAD.— The village of Tungao stands in a bight of the coast
N.E. by E. 15 miles from Cupchi Point, the intervening shore being low and
sandy. On the bar of the river, West of the village, the sea breaks heavily
at low water, and outside the bar the water shoals suddenly; so that vessels
approaching the anchorage in Tungao Eoad should not bring the fort at the
village to bear eastward of N.E. ^ N., when within 1^ mile of it; this will
be found a good roadstead in the N.E. monsoon, well sheltered and with
good holding ground. There are two pagodas in the neighbourhood, one on
the low land at the East side of the river's mouth ; the other on the hills 2
miles to the northward.

S.E. 2^ miles from the village is White Rock, which forms a good mark
by which thi« part of the coast may be recognized ; halfway between White
Eock and the village is a creek with a fort upon the hills East of it. The
land near the coast is low, with several fishing villages in the sandy bays,
the boats belonging to which are numerous, and being of difi'erent shape and
smaller than those of Hai-mun and Cupchi, will enable a vessel to identify
her position in a fog.

Hai-Loong Rock is directly in the track of vessels proceeding from the
anchorage in Tungao Eoad round Breaker Point when keeping in-shore to
avoid the N.E. monsoon, and lies S. by W. f W. 1 mile from the White
Bock, with pinnacles 11 ft. below the surface of the water slipping off into

1008 THE COAST OF CHINA.

6 fathoms on either side. The islet inside Breaker Point bears from it
E. by N. northerly, and the North pagoda N.N.W. J W.

BREAKER POINT, lying 1 miles eastward of White Rock, and E. by N. f
N. 23 miles from Cupchi Point, may be known by a black dome-shaped hill,
rising 280 ft. from a red sand drift on the point, whence the hills trend
northward and westward, dipping suddenly at their extremity. The shore
should not be approached within half a mile. A lighthouse is proposed at
Breaker Point. At 2 miles westward of Breaker Point is a small islet,
having Flat Reef, two conspicuous masses 1 2 ft. above high water, to the
south-eastward of it, distant 9 cables. A quarter of a mile W. by N. ^ N.
from Flat Eeef is Black Rock, 15 ft. ; and N.N.W., half a cable, another, 12
feet above high water. Corea Rock, having 14 ft. water over it, lies two'^
thirds of a mile S.W. ^ S. from Flat Reef. One and a half cables westward
of the Corea Rock is a rocki/ patch, with 3 to 5 fathoms water over it, and 7
fathoms around.

Sunk Rock has but 7 ft. water over it. From it the apex of the islet
westward of Flat Eeef bears N. ^ E., distant half a mile. When on Sunk
Rock, Black Rock and the rock (12 ft. high) respectively to the West and
N.W. of Flat Reef are in line. Another rock was reported in 1874, by thd
British steam-ship JSfingpo, South, 3 miles from Flat Island, and S.W. ^ S.
from Breaker Point. The steam-ship Ulysses, also, is reported to have struck
on a rock IJ mile East of this position. The dark hills seen over the high
sandy coast is very deceptive at night, and Dome Hill can then very seldom
indeed be recognised ; strangers cannot do so readily by daylight, and at
night are very liable to mistake for it a round-shaped hill at the extremity of
the back range. For these reasons soundings only can be relied upon to
enable vessels to pass the above dangers safely at night ; when by keeping
in depths of 11 or 12 fathoms, not less than 11 fathoms, they will pass
from 1 to 2 miles to the southward of Corea Rock.

Tides. — From observations on the tidal streams, from January to May,
between Hong Kong and Breaker Point, the ebb ran to the eastward. To
the eastward of Breaker Point, however, the flood set to the eastward, which
is its direction throughout the N.E. coast of China. It appears that the tidal
wave from the Pacific Ocean strikes first upon Breaker Point.

Tong-lae Point is 4J miles N.E. ^ N. from Breaker Point, and about a
mile westward of it is the entrance to a creek leading to the walled town of
Tong-lae. On the eastern side near the entrance is a fort, under which in-
different shelter might be found in the N.E. monsoon by a vessel of not more
than 12 ft. draught, but she would be in an awkward position should the
wind veer southward of East. Sunken rocks abound along this portion of
the coast, one of which lies 6 cables off the land, with the fort bearing
N.W. by N., and Rocky Point N. by E. f E. Rocky Point is the low ex-
treme of the land N.E. \\ mile from Tong-lae Point; hence the coast trends

THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 1009

northerly, and at the distance of 4^ miles is a headland with reefs extending
a quarter of a mile S.E. of it.

HAI-MUN BAY.— N.E. ^ E. 7 miles from the above headland is Hai-mun
Point, and between them Hai-mun Bay. The town is built on the left bank,
1 mile within the entrance of the river, which has 10 ft. over its bar. There
are three pagodas on the land to the northward of the bay, two of which are
on the hills, and can be seen in clear weather from Namoa Island.

At 9 cables southward of Hai-mun Point are two rocks, on which the sea
breaks. From the southern, Parkyns Rock, Eocky Head Point, on the East
side of entrance of Hai-mun Eiver, bears N.W. A rocky ledge, with only 2^
fathoms on its South end, extends 6 cables from the fort on the East point of
a sandy bay, 1 J mile E.S.E. of Rocky Head Point, and near the anchorage
of Hai-mun Eiver is another rock showing at low water, from which the
South extreme of Hai-mun Point bears E. by S., Eocky Head Point N.E. J N.,
and the West peak of Pagoda Eange N.W. by N.

CAUTION. — On many occasions vessels have nearly been lost by mistaking
Hai-mun Point for the Cape of Good Hope in thick weather, when the
Island of Namoa was not visible. These points bear a marked resemblance
to each other, both having three distinct high points with sandy beaches
between. In such weather, the low white sandy shore of Hope Bay is often
not visible.

Hope Bay is between Hai-mun Point and the South extreme of the Cape
of Good Hope, which bears E. by N. f N. distant about 8i miles. For 3^
miles N.E. of Hai-mun Point vessels should not close this part of the shore
nearer than three-quarters of a mile ; beyond that distance the sandy beach
is steep-to. There is a secure anchorage in the N.E. monsoon on the southern
side of the cape, to the N.W. of Tide Point. Sunken rocks extend a cable
from the fort point ; otherwise this bay is clear. At the western extreme of
this sandy bay is Peaked Eock, S.W. by S. of which, distant 4 cables, is a
small sunken pinnacle rock, on which H.M. gunboat Cockchafer struck in
1868. It has 4 ft. on it at low water, with 5 fathoms close-to on either side.
At 1^ mile N.W. of Peaked Eock is the entrance to a creek which communi-
cates with the Eiver Han, 3 miles above Swatow.

The CAPE of GOOD HOPE is the eastern, and Pagoda Hill the northern
boundary of the entrance to the Eiver Han. The cape, 163 ft. high, is the
N.E. extreme of a hilly peninsula, the highest part of which. High Cape
summit, is elevated 433 ft. Vincent Eange lies to the N.W. of the cape,
and North \\ mile from the highest part of Vincent Eange is Signal Sill,
on the summit of which, 377 ft. high, is a rudely constructed semaj)hore.

Dove Rock has only 7 ft. on it. From it the South summit of Double
Island bears W. by N. \ N., distant 5 miles, and Green Islet S.S.W. ^ W.
I. A. b X

1010 THE COAST OF CHINA.

4| miles. Its position may easily be recognized in calm weather by the tide
setting over it.

The northern face of the Cape of Grood Hope is half a mile long, and
terminates to the westward in a bold point, on which is an old fort. N. J E.,
half a mile from the fort, is Green Met, 72 ft. high, from the N.E. side of
which rocks extend a cable. Bill Islet, 50 ft. high, bears N.N.W. 2| miles
from the cape, and is nearly 1 mile oflp shore. At a third of a mile S. by
E. f E. from this islet is Squat Rock, about 15 ft. high ; and a quarter of a
mile S.W. by W. from Squat Eock is a reef awash.

Sugarloaf Channel.— Peaked Eock, bearing N.W. | N., 2| miles from
Bill Islet, lies off the South point of entrance to Sugarloaf Channel, which is
formed between the West side of Sugarloaf Island and the coast abreast it.
This channel, although only 2 cables wide, is excellent, either side being
quite steep to a quarter of a cable, and is alwajs used by steamers, and fre-
quently by sailing vessels.

Peaked Eock, 25 ft. high, can only be seen when it it is standing out clear
of the land. Sugarloaf Island, which bears not the least resemblance to its
name, is 200 ft. high ; and East, distant 2 cables from its South extreme,
are two rocks nearly awash at high water.

Double Island (the pilot station) bearing N.W. by N., 4 cables from the
North extreme of Sugarloaf, only appears double when seen from the S.E.
The white walls and tops of houses are the best guides to recognise it from
seaward. At 3 cables S.S.E. ^ E. from the summit and IJ cable off shore,
are rocks which cover at 5 ft. rise of tide ; the channel between them and
Sugarloaf cannot be recommended. Fisherman Island, half a mile westward
of Double Island, forms with it the continuation of Sugarloaf Channel.

Caution. — Between Double Island and the anchorage off Swatow are nu--
merous rows of fishing stakes, some of which stretch across the fairway.

The RIVER HAN. — Pagoda Hill, the northern boundary of the entrance
to the river, will be easily recognized by the pagoda on its summit, 257 feet
above high water. Kakchio Promontory, 4 miles westward, of Double Island,
when seen from seaward has the appearance of one continuous hill, the
southern part being 486 ft. high, and the northern 296 ft. ; the numerous
ravines by which it is cut up are only seen when close to. On its northern
side is the English Consulate (in lat. 23° 20' 43" N., long. 116° 39' 3" E.)
with a number of European houses, but they can only be seen when close up
to the anchorage.

Off the North extreme of the promontory, and separated from it by a very
narrow channel, is Bottefurh Rock, 50 ft. high ; and at two-thirds of a cable
farther to the N.N.W. is the Wyoming Rock, with only 4 ft. at low water,
marked by a red buoy, in 4 fathoms, 20 ft. N.AV. of the rock. Madras Rock,
having 8 ft. on it at low water springs, was discovered by the P. and 0. ship
Madras striking on it when hauling off the adjacent beach. From the rock

SWATOW. loll

Bottefurli Eock bears E. by N., the English Consulate flagstaff S.E. by E. |
E., and the extreme of the western pier S.E. by S., distant 1| cable.

Cken-to Roch, with 5 ft. water over it, is reported as a small cluster from
•which the British Consulate bears S. by "W. -J W. ; the Customs flagstaff
N. by W. f W., the Harbour Pilots' Pier S.E. by E. \ E., and the North
extreme of Bottefurh Eock W. by N. ^ N.

SWATOW stands on the northern bank of the river, nearly a mile distant
from Kakchio, and the whole of the Hongs are on this side. The anchorage
for foreign vessels is immediately fronting the town, where 6 to 7 iathoras
are found, with good holding ground.

The Port of Sicatoic, opened to foreign trade by the Treaty of Tientsin in
1858, is the shipping port of Chau-chu fu, 35 miles inland, and since its
establishment as a centre of foreign commerce, has been the means of
creating a large emporium at San-ho-pa, at the confluence of two branches,
40 miles farther up the river Han. Jetties project into the stream to a dis-
tance of some 200 yards. They are, in most cases, built of rough blocks of
granite. The military mandarin resides at the small, picturesque fort on the
"West of the town, in close proximity to the custom house.

The Han above Swatow is navigable 25 miles above where the Admiralty
survey terminates, to a place called Tiaka, where a bridge crosses the river.
Tiaka is about 12 miles from Chau-chu-fu, the capital of the province.
Another branch of the river runs to Chau-chu-fu from Swatow, but it is so
ehallow that it is only available for flat-bottomed boats.

Supplies. — The markets are fairly supplied with beef, mutton, poultry,
fish and fruit, and in winter with wild-fowl. Small repairs to ships, spars,
&c., can be executed, and there is a hulk capable of heaving down vessels
of 300 tons or more. There are no docks, the nearest being at Amoy, and
the rise of the tide is insufficient for the examinatien of the bottoms of
ships grounded on the soft mud. There is constant steam communication with
Hong Kong, Amoy, and Foochow, from which places stores of all kinds, not
procurable at the port, may be provided in a few days.

The foreign trade of Swatow has been very rapidly developed, but several
causes have concurred towards confining it almost exclusively in the hands
of native or Singapore Chinese.

The climate, and especially Double Island, shares with Amoy the well-
merited repute due to its maritime situation. Double island affords sea-
bathing, and attention has been drawn to this spot as a possible sanitarium
for Hong Kong and the southern ports. The position of Swatow at a point
opposite the Bashee Channel renders it pecularly exposed to typhoons, the
principal range of which is in this narrow seaway.

Tides. — Springs rise 9 ft., but the tides are much influenced by the pre-
vailing winds. During the S.W. monsoon, for a number of days there may
be only 2 or o ft. rise. Vessels drawing 17 ft. have been known to wait ten

1012 THE COAST OF CHINA.

days off Double Island, there not being sufficient rise of tide to enable them
to stand out.

Directions.— K vessel of heavy draught running for the entrance of the
Eiver Han before the N.E. monsoon should pass outside or eastward of the
Dove Eock. To do this, do not bring the East extreme of Fort Island to the
eastward of N. ^ E., until the clearing mark, the East extreme of Green
Islet on with the North part of High Cape summit, S.W. J S., is made out,
when steer for it imtil Sugarloaf Channel is well open. Bill Islet and Squat
Bock will then be easily recognized, and by steering in with Bill Islet on
with the extreme of the Cape of Good Hope bearing S.S.E., it will lead
between the Outer Flat- and the spit extending eastward from Double Island
in not less than 15 ft. at low- water spring tides. When nearing Double
Island great attention must be paid to keep this mark exactly on, as the
channel is only 2 cables wide. Vessels of light draught, 12 and 14 It., eaa
easily run in for the entrance North of Double Island.

Fort Island lies E.N.E. If mile from Pagoda Hill. Brig Island, so called
fi n a rock at its South extreme, which appears like a brig when seen in an
East or West direction, lies N.E. | E. 4f miles from Fort Island.

N AMOA ISLAND, 1 2 miles long East and West, and 5! miles wide at
its broadest or eastern part, is separated from the main by a channel about
3^ miles wide, with depths varying from 3 to 6 fathoms. The three peaks
of this island, West Peak, 1,h30 ft., Namoa Peak 1,934 ft., and Saddle
Pfeak 1,794 ft. above the level of the sea, form the most prominent land-
marks in the neighbourhood. Notwitlistanding its barrenness, the island is
exceedingly populous, the fisheries affording a livelihood to the greater por-
tion of the inhabitants.

Caution is required to avoid the large fishing stakes which almost surround
this island in deep water, some of which are large enough to carry away a
vessel's jib-boom. The anchorage in Clipper Eoad is in 6 to 7 fathoms,
very good holding ground.

Local knowledge is necessary when approaching the anchorages on the
westward of Namoa from the southward, as the knolls of the S.W. end of
Namoa are said to shift. The eastern channel between North point of
Namoa and Fort Head is much wider and has general depths of 7 to 4
fathoms.

Nangaou Bay, the next bight eastward of Shoal Bay, on the North coast
Namoa, has at its head a walled town, the residence of the magistrate of the
district. Vessels drawing less than 18 ft. may stand into this bay until Pa-
goda Island, on its eastern side, bears E. by N. ; but during the N.E. mon-
soon there is a considerable swell in it. Eocks extend 3 cables from the
north-eastern point of Namoa.

South Bay, on the South coast of Namoa, affords good shelter in the N.E.
monsoon ; rocks extend 1| cable southward from its eastern point. Vessels

LA MOCK ISLANDS— LAMON EOCKS. 1015

drawing 18 ft. may run into this bay until the extreme of the point bears
S.E. About half a mile S.E. of the point is Crab Island, a low flat islet.

IFart Rock, with 4 J fathoms on it at low water, lies 7 cables off East Point
of Namoa, with North point of Namoa N. 39° W. and West end of Euff
Eock just open of Dome Island.

LAMOCK ISLANDS are a g:roup of four islets, and two patches of rocks
occupying an extent of 7i miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction. From tlie
Boat Eocks at their S.W. end, the We.st point of Namoa bears N.W. h W.
22 miles ; and from North Eock at their N.E. end, the East point bear*
N.W. 13 J miles, and the south-eastern Brother N.E. by E. 25| miles.

Boat Rocks are two square rocks, 15 ft. above high water, about the size
of boats, with several reefs between them. White Rock, lying N.E. 1^ mile
from Boat Eocks, is sufficiently large to afford shelter to boats.

Hig'h Lamock, near the centre of the group, is covered with brushwood.
The channel between it and White Eock is safe, the depths varying from 8
to 14 fathoms. The distance between High and East Lamock Islands is a
mile, but about the middle of the channel is a rock, with a reef, which shows
at low tide, extending southward \^ cable from it. The three northern islets
lie close together ; North Eock, the northern one, which has a pyramid on
it, is without vegetation.

LIGHTS. — On High Lamock Island there are exhibited two fixed lights,
Tiz. : — a high white light, and a low red lijiht.

High Light is a fixed bright light, elevated 241 ft. above the sea, and in
clear weather should be seen from a distance of 22 miles. The lantern is on
a round tower of cast iron, 25 ft. in height (lantern vane 54 ft. above base),
and painted black ; the dwellings and boundary wall are white.

Low Light is di fixed red light, elevated 55 ft. above the level of the sea, and
in clear weather should be se^n from a distance of 7 miles. The light ex-
hibited from a window in a white building erected on the southern slope of
the island, is shown only between the beai'ings S.W. by S. and S.W. ^ W.,
covering the White and Boat Eocks, and is intended as a guide for clearing
these rocks.

Times Rock, on which several vessels have struck, is a dangerous coral
pinnacle, with only 9 ft. at low water. Froii it the North Eock of the La-
mock Islands bears S.W. J S., distant nearly 1^ mile, and Dome Island
W. by N. ^ N., 12 miles.

In passing inside the Lamock Islands, attention to the tide as well as ta
the vessel's course is necessary.

LAMON EOCKS. — Between Namoa and Lamock Islands are several islets,
the northernmost of which is the highest, and from its appearance is called
Dome Island. The two southern islets. Ruff Rock and Ocste Rock, lie East and
West of each other ; to the southward of the Euff are the Dot and Sul Rocks.

1014 THE COAST OF CHINA.

A reef extends one-third of a mile southward of the Sul. Plat Island is
flat topped, and is lower than the Euff or the Oeste.

Machinnon Roch has only 5 ft. water. From it the N.W. point of Plat Is-
land bears W.S.W., distant three-quarters of a mile ; the East extremity of
Oeste Eock, S. by E. i E. 2 miles ; the summit of Euff Eock, S.E. | E. 2
miles ; and the summit of Dome Island, N.E. by E. f E.

Sinta Rock, with only 2 ft. over it, lies S.E. f S., nearly 5 miles from Dome
Islet, with the S W. extreme of Euff Eock in line with the summit of Plat
Island, bearing W.N.W. ; East point of Namoa N. by W. ; and the highest
part of High Lamock E. by S. f S.

Yeng Rock, awash at low water, is 5 miles N. f E. from Sinta Eock, with
the North end of Crab Islet in one with the S.W. extreme of Namoa, bear-
ing W. by N. northerly ; Dome Islet W. by S. J S. ; High Lamock S.E. f
S., and East point of Namoa N.N.W. § W. The North point of Namoa
Been clear of East point, leads north-eastward.

Glengyle Rock, lying one-third of a mile off the S.E. point of Namoa,
breaks and lies with Namoa East point bearing N. ^ E. ; Oeste Eock S.S.W.
^ W., and Three Chimneys W. S.W. Its position was ascertained by H.M.S.
Nassau in 1875.

Half-Tide Reef, between Dome Islet and Namoa, lies rather more than a
mile from the Namoa shore, S.E. by S. from Three Chimney Bluff. The
channel between these rocks and Namoa is obstructed by fishing stakes.

Ckelsteu Rock appear as large boulders, and bear East nearly 6J miles
from the North point of Namoa.

Dioyu Reef just awash at high water, is rather more than 3 miles N.W.
by N. from Chelsieu Eocks. The reef is horse-shoe shaped, 120 yards long,
and appears to form a natural dock. It has apparently deep water close to.

CHALLTJM BAY is fronted by the North side of Namoa ; and its entrance
affords better shelter during the N.E. monsoon than Nangaou Bay, and it is
also a good anchorage when the wind blows strong from East or E.S.E.

Chauan Bay entrance is 10 miles N.E. J E. from the North point of
Namoa, may be useful during the southerly monsoon. A vessel should not
attempt to cross the bar at less than half tide, when at the deepest part she
would have 12 to 14 ft. In the N.E. monsoon it runs far enough back to
the N.E. to allow an awkward sea to arise, and a vessel should then endea-
vour to reaoh Owick Bay, 2 miles eastward of Chauan Head, which has a
sandy bottom, and is protected to the eastward by a narrow isthmus, having
two rocks off its South extreme. The bay should not be entered during the
typhoon months, as the anchorage is unsafe during S.W. winds. Immedi-
ately eastward of this bay is a remarkable sand patch, which will help to
point out its position.

Jokako Peak, 880 ft. above the sea, and conical shaped, is the highest part
of the land at the back of Owick Bay. Pell Island, '6 miles eastward of

TONGSANG HAEBOUE. 1015

Owick Point, is perforated at its South end, which will be seen on a S.E. or
N.W. bearing. There is an islet between it and Jokako Point, having a
reef off its North end. Jokako Foint is an isolated hill 640 ft. above the sea :
off it are two islets ; the nearest, Cliff Islet, bearing S.E. by E. one mile,
and the other, Square Islet, E.N.E. 1£- mile. Square Islet is perforated. A
reef extends a cable N.N.W. from Cliff Islet. Cone Peak, elevated 800 ft.
above the sea, with a peaked rock off its eastern point, bears N.N.E. 5 E.
51 miles from Jokako Point.

The Brothers -are two islets lying S.E. by E. about 12 miles from Cone
Peak, and N.E. f E. 28^ miles from Lamock Light. They are 180 and 120
ft. in height, and 1^ mile apart in a S.E. ^ E. and N.W. J "W". direction.
The south-eastern islet, the larger and higher of the two, has a fine bluff at
its South extreme, and a reef extending north-westward from it ; the smaller
islet has a remarkable square top.

TONGSANG HARBOUR is one of the best on this coast, and its position
•will be readily recognised by Fall Peak, a remarkable peak, 930 ft. above
the sea, which rises on its eastern shore and makes something like a saddle
but with a deeper indentation ; upon the island at the entrance is a pao-oda
which bears from the S.E. Brother, N.W. by N. 14^ miles. A mud bank,
of 3j fathoms, lies outside the entrance, with the pagoda bearing N.W. ^ N.
and Fall Peak N.E.J N. ; but by keeping the Sisters, two islets in the
northern portion of the harbour, well open of the East end of Middle Is-
land (the island N.E. of Pagoda Island) a vessel will pass eastward of the
bank.

Junks anchoring for the tide bring up between Pagoda and Middle Is-
lands, but in running for this anchorage take care to avoid the rocks which
extend south-eastward 2 cables from the East point of the northern portion
of Pagoda Island. The walled town of Tongyung stands on a jieninsula on
the western shore of the entrance abreast Pagoda Island. The inhabitants
of and about Thunder Head will bring off supplies of bullocks, poultry, fish,
and vegetables.

Caution. — When running into Tongsang Harbour, sail should be reduced
in time, if the wind is fresh outside, for violent squalls come down from
Thunder Head. The coast on the eastern side of Thunder Head must not
be approached within a cable.

Pees Pock, covered at high water springs, Lies S.E. by E. % E. rather more
than half a mile from Fall Peak, with the chimneys on Chimney Island
forming the eastern side of Eees Pass, bearing N.E. by N. ; a rock, on which
the sea breaks at low water, lies a cable eastward of it.

Pass Islets bear N. t E. li mile from Eees Eock, the ground between
them being foul.

Rees Pass is between the Pass Islets and Eees Islands, and on its eastern
side, W. by S. from the chimneys, and 3 cables from the shore of Chimney

1016 THE COAST OF CHINA.

Island, is a shoal of only two fathoms water. The Eees Islands are barren,
and only inhabited by fishermen, H.M. brig Plover rode out a heavy gale
veering from N.E. to E. by N., in this pass. Simplicia Wreck Hocks are 6
cables N.E. of South-East Island, a reef, which shows at low water, lying
a cable N.E. of the outer rock.

Caution. — In the neighbourhood of the Eees Islands the sea rises rapidly
after the commencement of a breeze, and overtops, leading to the suppositioa
that there must be some change in the soundings.

Dansborg Islani, lying 2 miles N.E. of Simplicia Wreck, -has three peaks
of nearly equal heights. Skead Islet is li mile W.N.W. of this island, and
between them, at the distance of 4 cables from the islet, is another small islet
with a reef extending from its West point ; a reef also projects from the East
point of Skead Islet. Chitig Rock, which covers at high tide, lies 14 cables
from Skead Islet. The eastern Simplicia, open East of Skead Islet, leads
eastward of the reef.

Goo Rock covers at a quarter flood. It lies 2 miles S.W. by W. | W. of
the Ching. Awoota Rock is close to the main, N.W. | W. 2i miles from the
Chimneys.

Black Head, or Hu-tau-shan, 5| miles northward of Dansborg Island,
comprises five separate hills, the southern of which. Black Head, is most
remarkable. On the northern hill is a walled town. There is good anchor-
age south-westward of Black Head, but not much shelter unless the wind be
well to the northward. Should the wind draw round to the eastward, the
sooner this anchorage is quitted. the better. Eefuge will then be found by
running through Eees Pass and anchoring close under Chimney Island, or
in Tongsang Harbour.

The Coast from Black Head to Eed Bay, 10 miles to the N.E., with the
exception of one hill and two hillocks, is a sandy plain. K7iol Rock, 150 ft.
high and steep-to, bears S.E. by E. | E. 3J miles from Spire Islet.

Eed Bay will be found a fair roadstead in the N.E. monsoon, and may be
readily recognized by two high black rocks off its eastern point. Ac the
head of the bay is a village on the right bank of a creek.

In navigating this portion of the coast during the N.E. monsoon, the
wind will be found to hang to the northward from 2 to 10 a.m., and in the
eastern quarter the remaining period. Deeply laden vessels will find it
more advantageous to seek shelter in one of the harbours or roadsteads
above mentioned during a strong N.E. wind, than to keep underway, as
ground can seldom be gained in consequence of the depth of water.

Mount Edmond (lat. 24° 7' N., long. 117° 50' E., is about 1,500 ft. high,
and from its isolated position is a conspicuous and useful landmark. About
6 miles to the S.W. of Mount Edmond there is another conspicuous moun-
tain about 1,200 ft. high.

Cork Point to China-lia Point. — The coast line from Cork Point, the

CHAPEL ISLAND, ETC. 1017

N.E. point of Eed Bay, takes a N.E. | N. direction 18i miles to Chin-ha
Point. Halfway between Cork and Chin-ha Points is House Hill Point, the
southern extremity of a small islet connected with House Hill at low water.
House Hill is low, with the ruin of a house on its summit, and bears N.W.
by W. I W. from Lamtia Island. There are two small inlets here ; both
have bars across the entrance, and are frequented by pirates. Lamtia
Island bearing N.E., distant 9 miles from Cork Point, is of basaltic forma-
tion, and its southern side rises abruptly from the sea ; a reef extends N.W.
by N. half a mile from it. Notch Island, of similar formation, lies N. by W.
3 miles from Lamtia, and has a rocky spur extending S. by E. a quarter of a
mile from it, and also one N.W. by W. 1^- cables.

CHAPEL ISLAND, in lat. 24° 10' 18" N., lono:. 118° 13^' E., is 47 miles
N.E. f N., from the 8.E. Brother, and lU miles S.S.E. from the Chaucliat
Eocks at the entrance of Amoy. It is of basaltic formation, with steep
sides and grassy top, and perforated at its southern end ; there is also a re-
markable mound on either end. With this island bearing South, and when
about midway between it and the entrance to Amoy, Captain Ross, of the
Indian Navy, passed over a sand-bank of 6 fathoms water, but no less could
be found.

LIGHT.— A/^efl! and fashing white light, the flashes being shown every
half minute, is exhibited on Chapel Island. It is elevated 527 ft above the
level of high water, visible all round, and in clear weather should be seen
from a distance of 22 miles. The illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of the
first order. The tower, 63 ft. high, is round and painted black ; the keeper's
dwelling and wall are painted white.

Merope Shoals are between Chapel Island and the coast. South Merope
has only 5 ft. on its shoalest part, at its southern end, from which Chapel
Island bears N.E. by E. I E. 7! miles, and Lamtia Island N.W. by W. 5
miles; thence it extends, with depths of 3 and 4 fathoms, nearly 5 miles to
the N.E. North Merope is formed of pinnacle rocks, the highest of which
dries 8 ft. at low water ; these rocks have deep water between them, and
bear W. by N. 8^ miles from Chapel Island ; the eastern edge bears N.E.
from Lamtia Island.

Tingtae Bay, 4 miles northward of North Merope, affords shelter for small
vessels in the N.E. monsoon. The pagoda of Fantai Wushan, 1,720 feet
above the sea, stands on the hills ioi mediately at the back of this bay. The
coast here continues in a north-easterly direction 3 miles farther to Chin-ha
Point, when it takes a sudden turn to the N.W., forming Amoy Harbour.

i:rl King Shoal, reported by the master of the English steamship ErlKivg,
1869, of 3 fathoms water, lies S. by PI 2{ miles from Chin-ha Point, with
Chapel Island bearing S.E. ^ E., and Lamtia Island, S.W. *} W.

CAUTION.— Vessels bound to Amoy from the southward and passing be-
I. A. 6

101 R THE COAST OF CHINA.

tween the ofF-lying dangers and the coast should use the utmost caution.

Chin-ha-Point has a dangerous rocky patch above water, about a quarter
of a mile in diameter, N.E. by E. 6^ cables from it. Vessels should pass
•well outside the reef. Notch Island, or Table Head, just open of Chin-ha
Point leads to the S.E, and the eastern extreme of "Wu-seu Island bearing
N. J W. leads to the eastward of it.

Wu-seu Island, 330 ft. high, is on the western side of entrance to Amoy
Outer Harbour, and on its summit are or used to be three chimneys (the
usual pirate signal on the coast of China. Its N.E. and S.E. faces are steep
cliffs. It will be prudent not to pass westward of Wu-seu, as the channels
inside are only partially surveyed. A rock, which is sometimes covered,
lies between Wu-seu and Chin-ba Point, with that point bearing S. 5 W.,
and Nantai Wushan Pagoda W.N.W.

The Chauchat are three flat rocks nearly awash at high tide, lying about
half a mile eastward of Wu-seu. A rocky ^-ft. patch lies 4| cables E. by 8.
\ S. from Chauchat, with the extremes of Wu-seu bearing from S.W. by W.
\ W. to W.N.W., and the eastern extreme of Tae-tan N, ^ E. A vessel
should pass eastward of the rocks by keeping Tae-pan Point open northward
of Tsing-seu N.W. by W. Chow-chow water is found westward of them.

The Chin-tseao are two rocks, the eastern of which is 60 feet high, and the
other covered at high, water, lying N.W. by N. haK a mile from the North.
end of Wu-seu ; between them and the main are several islets and half-
tide rocks.

TSING-SEU is a table-topped island lying three-quarters of a mile N.W. of
the Chin-tseao ; it rises precipitously from the sea, and forts are built upon
its summit, which is 250 ft. above high water.

A LIGHTHOUSE, 33 ft. high, octagonal in shape, and painted in red and
white vertical stripes, is established on the northern slope of Tsing-seu
Island. The buildings surrounding it are painted white. From the light-
house a, fixed light was first shown in December, 1875. It shows red to the
southward, over Chauchat Eocks and Wooseu Island, between South and
S.E. by E. ; white over the entrance and up the harbour, between S.E.
by E. and N.W. ^ W. ; and red to the northward over the Taepan Shoal,
between N.W. J W. and West. The light is elevated 130 ft., the bright
light being visible 15 miles off, and the red light 8 miles.

This lighthouse stands on the western side of the entrance to Amoy Outer
Harbour, Chih-seu Island standing on its eastern side. The channel west-
ward of Tsing-seu is not safe.

On the western side of Amoy Outer Harbour, between Tsing-seu and Tae-
pan Point, is Tae-pan Shoal, which will be avoided when standing westward
by keeping the pagoda on Ki-sue Island open N.E. of Tae-pan Point. To
avoid the shoals on the N.E. side of the harbour, do not bring the East end
of Seao-tan to the southward of S.E. by E.

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AMOY HARBOUR. 1019

Chih-seu is a small islet 60 ft. high, lying N.E. i E. 8 cables from Tsing-
seu. This islet is connected to two other small islets, Hwangkwa and Tao-
sao by a rocky bed which blocks the passage.

Seao-tan is an island 6^ cables long, East and West, 200 ft. high, with
three chimneys on it, and a sandy bay on its northern side. It lies E.N.E.
of Hwangkwa, and the channel between, 3 cables wide, is frequently used.
On Seao-tan is a Signal Station, which communicates with Amoy.

Tae-tan Island and Light. — Tae-tan, the highest island of this group,
and lying N.E. of Seao-tan, is about 8 cables long, N.N. W. and S.S.E.,
with a low sandy ithmus in the centre ; the highest part is at its East
end. The channel between this island and Seao-tan is 2 cables wide, but
as vessels are likely to have baffling winds, it would not be prudent for a
stranger to use it.

There is a white, octagonal lighthouse, 16 ft. high and about 300 ft. above
the sea, on Tae-tan Island, fitted with Argand lamps, and exhibiting a, fixed
light, seen 10 miles off in clear weather, but the light cannot be depended
on. ThOj^light is shown to the northward between West and S.E.

It is said that since the survey of this locality in 1843, the soundings on
the bank westward of Tae-tan have much decreased, and that a vessel draw-
ing more than 12 ft. must wait for water to run through this channel.

AMOY HARBOUE. — Amoy Island, about 22 miles in circumference, occu-
pies the northern portion of the great bight between Chin-ha and Hu-i-tau
Points ; in the eastern portion is the island of Quemoy and Hu-i-tau Bay.
The City of Amoy stands on the S.W. part of the island, abreast the Island
of Kulangseu, which affords protection to the inner harbour.

Amoy was captured by the British forces on August 26th, 1841, and by
the treaty of Nanking, which followed, was thrown open to foreign trade.
The harbour is one of the best and most easy of access on the Coast of
China, so that the services of a pilot, either in entering or departing, are
scarcely necessary. There is good holding ground in the outer harbour, and
vessels can anchor in the inner harbour, within a short distance of the beach,
in perfect security.

The Chinese City occupies the south-western corner of the island of Amoy,
near the mouth of the Lung-kiang, which leads westerly to Chang-chau-fu.
The population is estimated to exceed 200,000, and, unlike the turbulent
Cantonese, is quiet and inoffensive. There is a seamen's hospital on this
side, at which the charges are 1^ dollar a day for seamen, and 3 dollars for
officers.

The British Consul and staff, together with the medical officer and chaplain
attached to the Consulate, reside on Kulang-seu, the chief consular building
being situated on a cliff commanding an extensive view seaward and of the
harboui', while the Vice- Consulate is built at its foot.

1020 THE COAST OF CHINA.

The docking accommodation is very good, and ably managed by the Amoy
Dock Company. There are three docks. The chief establishment is situated
on the Amoy side, nearly abreast Dock Islet. There is also a wharf, with 18
feet water alongside at springs, fitted with masting shears. The dock, which
is capable of taking a vessel 300 ft. long, is 316 ft. in length at coping, and
304 ft. on floor ; depth from coping to sill, 20 ft. ; length of caisson on deck,
64 ft. ; on floor, 54 ft. ; width of dock at entrance gate, 60 ft. ; on floor, 34
feet ; there are 18J ft. water at entrance at springs, and the rise and fall is
17 to 18 ft. The second dock is on the Kulangseu side, near the Lintau
landing place ; it is 240 ft. in length. The third and smallest, called the
Bellamy Dock, is near the entrance of the inner harbour, abreast the Brown
Eock; it is 186 ft. long.

A sunken roch, on which there are only 6 ft. at low water, lies N.W. f N.,
1 J cable^from the entrance of Amoy Dock.

The Harbour lies between Kulangseu Island and the S.W. shore of Amoy
Island, and is from 2 to 3| cables in breadth, and 1| mile in length. Ku-
langseu, 302 ft. high, when viewed from the entrance of the outer harbour,
appears as one huge boulder. The British Consulate, standing on its S.E,
part, is very conspicuous. Over the consulate is the Signal Station.

Buoys. — Co];er Rock, the outer danger at the entrance of the eastern chan-
nel into Amoy inner harbour, has 2 ft. water on it, and is marked by a rei
and white vertical^ striped buoy, from which Cornwallis Stone bears E. by
8. I S., and is distant a little more than half a mile ; the "West extreme of
Thumb Rock is just touching the white staff on the point North of it,
N.W. J N., and this high water rock (6 ft. high) off Beveridge Point is just
open South of two small rocks of the same height lying off the English Con-
sulate, nearly West. Coker Rock lies in mid-channel.

Brown or Ashne Rock, of 13 ft., is marked by a buoy in red and white hori-
%ontal stripes, from which Coker Rock bears S. by E. | E. one-third of a
mile, and the South extreme of the easternmost house on Kulangseu is just
on with the top of Thumb Rock W. by S., which latter is distant 1^ cable.

Harhour Rock lies in the anchorage, having only 9 ft. water at low tides,
and 6 and 7 fathoms between it and the shore ; from the rock the apex of
Dock Island bears N.E. \ N., distant IJ cable, and Monkey Island Pagoda,
N.W. i W., 7 J cables. There is a buoy 36 ft East of this rock.

Kellett Spit is the extreme North of the foul ground extending in a
northerly direction from the North point of Kulangseu. A red buoy is placed
in 5 fathoms on its extreme end. It has been the scene of many accidents.

* In the Chinese official list, corrected to August, 1874, it is stated that there is a large
iron buoy about 60 fathoms from the Coker Rock, and a small iron buoy ^0 ft. S.W. of the
pinnacle of the rock, but how coloured is not mentioned.

AMOY HAEBOUR. 1021

Anchorage. — The outer harbour of Amoy has extensive anchorage in 7 to
16 fathoms, good holding ground, and unless vessels are badly fuund it ia
not probable that any gale could hurt them. The usual anchorage is west-
ward of Cornwallis Stone ; a good berth is in about 6 fathoms, muddy-
bottom, with Cornwallis Stone bearing East, and Thumb Rock N.W. ^ N.
This is almost as near the town as a vessel can approach without the neces-
sity of mooring. Moorings are laid down for H.M. gunboats.

There is also good and safe anchorage in 7 to 17 fathoms in the channel
on the West side of Kulangseu.

Typhoons are scarcely known, but when experienced along the coast, Amoy
is visited by heavy north-easterly gales, with hot winds, veering round East
and South. Vessels then in the neighbourhood generally run for Amoy
Harbour to repair damages.

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Amoy Inner Harbour, at
12*" 0"", ordinary springs rise 18^ ft., neaps 14Jft. During the N.E. monsoon
the evening fall is only 15 ft., the previous rise having been 19 ft. This
occurs from September till March, when for a short time the morning rise
and evening fall may be said to be equal. During the S.W. monsoon this
phenomenon is reversed, the evening tide having the greatest fall, the morn-
ing the least. The greatest velocity at springs is 4 knots.

Owing to a greater rise of tide from August till December than the other
months of the year, a vessel may be taken into Amoy Dock, drawing 18^ ft.
In April there are only 16 ft. on the blocks, which is the lowest during the
year. It gradually falls to this level from December, and again increases to
the month of August.

DIRECTIONS. — When bound to Amoy from the southward, after round-
ing the Lamock Islands and the Brothers, steer about N.E. by N. for Chapel
Island, keeping between 10 and 12 miles off the coast to avoid South Merupe
Shoal. The Nantai Wushan pagoda is a good landmark by which the
entrance of Amoy may be recognised when in the neighbourhood of Chapel
Island, which may be passed close-to on either side, thence a N. by W. f W.
course will lead towards the entrance of the harbour. As the 8-feet patch
off the Chauchat Rocks is approached, keep Tae-pan Point well open North
of Tsing-seu to pass eastward of it ; thence steer between Tsing-seu and
Chih-seu into Amoy outer harbour.

Approaching the harbour from the eastward, give Dodd Island a berth of
a mile, and after passing Leeo-lu Head, wuich is steep-to, be careful not to
shut in the island with the head until Ki-seu Island opens South of Tae-tan
Island, W. by N. f N., to clear Quemoy Spit. Thence steer for Tsing-seu,
keeping Tae-tan Point well open North of Tsing-seu as before.

The entranoe to Amoy in clear weather is easily distinguished by the high
land on the South side, on the summit of which is the Nan-tai Pagoda, an
excellent land-mark, but often covered with clouds, especially in the S.W.

1022 THE COAST OF CHINA.

monsoon. After Chapel Island is made the six islands forming the outer
harbour soon come in sight.

The channel into the inner harbour, between Kulangseu and Amoy, is so
narrow, and sunken rocks lie ofif both its shores, that a stranger should not
attempt it without a pilot. The best anchorage is between Dock Islet off the
city point and Hauseu Island. The inner harbour, however, may be reached
without difficulty by passing through the channel westward of Kulangseu,
taking care to give Druid Head, the S.W. point of the island, a berth of at
least 1 cable's length, and recollecting that shoal water extends half a mile
from the main land on the opposite shore. After passing Draid Head, keep
"well over towards Watson and Hauseu Islands, and in crossing over to the
eastward for the city beware of Kellett Spit, extending from the North point
of Kulangseu, especially if the ebb tide is running strong.

Pilots (Chinese) are generally to be met with inside Chapel Island who are
licensed to pilot vessels (1869) as far as Cornwallis Stone, the limit of the
inner harbour, whence European pilots take charge. Their boats may be
recognized by their carrying a flag, and having "Licensed Pilot" painted
on the bows.

Entering the harhotir. — It is always advisable to enter the eastern or Blonde
Channel into Amoy Harbour on the ebb. In entering, steer for Cornwallis
Stone, and after passing it keep the Amoy shore aboard on the ebb and
during ttie N.E. monsoon. The Coker and Brown Rock buoys watch well ;
leave them at half a cable on the port hand. The South Chalk Island just
open northward of Hauseu Island, N.W. f N., clears the Alibi Rock, the
Isere Rocks, and all the dangers on the East side of Kulangseu.

The wider channel on the West side of Kulangseu may be used without
difl&culty, but a vessel of large draught in entering should keep Druid Head
a little eastward of North to avoid a 3 -fathom spit, which extends off Anson
Bluff, on the eastern side of the channel. Cass Spit, extending from the S.E.
point of Sung-seu Island, has only 8 ft. at low water on its extreme, which
is one-third of a mile from the point ; to clear it, dc) not shut in the white
tower, which is on the low wooded point West of the Chalk Islands, with
the N.E. point of Sung-seu, N. by W.

In working through this channel, standing westward towards Cass Spit,
keep the white tower openof the N.E. point of Sung-seu. Standing eastward,
Druid Head and the small joss house may be approached to three-quarters
of a cable. If obliged to tack between the small joss house and Modeste
Point, keep Druid Head well in sight. Kiu-sung-seu is fringed with low
water rocks, and may be approached to about a cable. In making the
eastern board towards the Isere Rock.s, tack when the small joss house is
midway between First Rock and Modeste Point. When northward of the
buoy on Kellett Spit, or when the cathedral cross is in line with Duck Islet,

AMOY— DIEECTIONS. 1028

steer to tlie eastward for the anchorage off the city, keeping the South Chalk
Island open North of Hauseu to clear the Isere Eocks.

On entering Amoy, if foggy, after passing between Tsing-seu and Chih-
seu and unable to see Kulangseu, care should be taken to ascertain the
direction of the tide as it runs here very strong, and vessels are often so
drifted out of their course as to be compelled to anchor. As a rule, the
ebb tide for the first three hours will be found setting strongest through the
narrow channel North of Kulangseu and obliquely across the outer harbour,
about S.E. ; and the last of the tide, making stronger through the broad
channel South of Kulangseu, will generally be found setting more easterly
and directly through the fairway.

In working out with the ebb tide it is not advisable to stand in close to
Tsing-seu or Chih-seu on account of the eddies and chow-chow water ; the
tides at springs run very swiftly between the islands and set obliquely, N.E.
and S.W., across the outer harbour. A sailing vessel beating out of Amoy
on the ebb should be careful not to be becalmed under Tsing-seu, as the tide
runs strong towards it.

Vessels of large draught should pass northward of Kellett Spit buoy, as
immediately inside it are only 1 8 ft. at low water. Many vessels have passed
over the Isere Rocks with impunity, owing to the great rise of tide, but some
in doing so have been greatly injured, and in the case of the Isere a total
shipwreck was the consequence.

The formation of the bottom in Amoy HarboUr appears as irregular as
the sudden and abrupt falls on Kulangseu. The residents are of opinion
that the patches are mushroom shaped, and consequently when cables wind
round them they are irrecoverable.

When there is much shipping in the inner harbour, the easiest way often
to get out is to go round to the westward of Kulangseu.

The channel around Amoy Island is so narrow and winding that directions
would be useless ; the chart is the best guide. The Bay of Sungseu, on the
North side of which the city of that name is built, runs back 7 miles to the
westward from Kulangseu ; it is, however, shoal, and only navigable for
small craft.

Coal is supplied from Hong Kong for H.M. ships, and stored, and is put
on board by contractors at any hour of the day or night, weather permitting.
Fresh beef, vegetables, and water are readily procured.

Q,UEMOY ISLAND is separated from Amoy by a channel 5 to 7 miles
wide, in the middle of which is Little Quemoy Island. Between Tae-tan
Island and Little Quemoy the channel is deep, but narrowed by reefs.

The channel between Little Quemoy and Quemoy is half a mile wide. To
enter, bring the N.E. point of Little Quemoy onaN. ^ E. bearing, and steer
for it until the pagoda on Quemoy bears East, then haul to N.E. by N. for

1024 THE COAST OF CHINA.

a mile, and anchor in about 9 fathoms secure from all winds. Vessels draw-
ing less than 15 ft. may borrow over on the Little Que-noy shore.

Quemoy Bank extends 3 miles southward from the West point of Quemoy.
It is steep-to, and the lead will give no warning. Leeo-ht Bay, on the South
coast of Quemoy Island, is said to afford good shelter from N.W., round
northward, to East, but the tides are uncertain, and several dangers exist
near the shores.

Hu-i-tau Bay, formed between the eastern side of Quemoy and the main-
land, affords good shelter in the N.E. monsoon. Hu-i-tau Point, the eastern
point of entrance, is 80 ft. high, and at 1^ mile south-eastward of it is a
sunken rock, on which 2f fathoms were found.

Vessels requiring shelter during the N.E. monsoon in this bay, will find
good anchorage on its eastern side between Oyster Islet and Oyster Hock,
taking care to avoid the latter, which only shows at low water springs.
There is also anchorage westward of Oyster Islet in 5 fathoms, but the islet
should not be brought to the southward of East, as a rocky ledge of only 6
feet water lies 6 cables W.N.W. of the islet.

Vessels seeking shelter in a southerly wind can run up the bay to the
northward, of "White Eoeks and Thalia Bank, and find anchorage in 5^
fathoms at half a mile N.E. of Flak Islands To avoid the northern edge of
Thalia Bank, do not bring Flak Island to the northward of W. by N. f N. ;
and by keeping Oyster Islet open northward of the fort, the bank will be
avoided which extends from the North side of the bay.

The channel between Thalia Bank and Quemoy is foul with several reefs,
and should not be attempted without some previous knowledge. To clear
the South end of Thalia Bank, keep the chimney on the North end of
Quemoy on a W. by N. f N. bearing until White Eock bears North, then
steer N.W. until the rock is N.E. by E., when shape a course to pass half a
mile from the points of the bays on the Quemoy shore.

The channel North of Quemoy having 8 ft. in it at low water, might be
used at high tide ; but no vessels should attempt it without a pih)t.

CHIMMO BAY is between Chimmo Point on the South, and Yungning
Point on the North. The former of these points lies 8J miles N.E. of
Hu-i-tau Head. This bay can only be termed a roadstead, and is dangerous
in the southerly monsoon. Timgning Islet is steep-to, but the reef lying
W. I S. 3 cables from it, covers at high water. Within the bay the depths
shoal gradually, but vessels drawing 15 ft. and upwards must not bring
Yungning Islet to the southward of E. f S. It is high water, full and change,
in Chimmo Bay, at 10'' 20"; spri' gs rise 16 ft. The tide sets with consider-
able strength along the coast, between Hu-i-tau and Chimmo Bays ; but
both the period and the rate vary considerably with the monsoon. The
state of the tide will be known by the numerous fishing nets moored off the
coast.

CHIN-CHU HARBOUE. 1025

CHIN-CHU HARBOUR.— The coast from Chimmo Bay trends N.E. by N.
8 miles to Chungdii Point, the southern point of entrance to Chin-chu
Harbour. At 1^ mile southward of Chungchi Point is Bell Islet, with a
building on it something like a bell.

Pilots. — Chin-chu Harbour is the only place where pilots can be got for
Hai-tan Strait or Hungwha Sound, and it is advisable that all vessels bound
there should take one, as the navigation is very intricate.

Kusan Pagoda, 760 ft. above the sea, on the North side of Chiramo Bay, is
an excellent mark for recognizing the locality of Chin-chu Harbour when
approaching it from the southward. From a position about If mile eastward
of Chungchi Point, steer North until Choho Pagoda opens northward, of
Seatoi Island, bearing W. J S., when the pagoda should be steered fur on
that bearing, and it will lead, along the northern edge of Seatoi Bank. The
ship Omega, drawing 11 ft., struck on a bank 1^ mile eastward of Seatoi,
but not less than 2i fathoms were found upon the Seatoi Bank in March,
1844; the southerly monsoon may, however, cause the sand to accumulate
at times.

If running for the harbour from the northward, aud intending to anchor
southward of the Boot Sand, after passing about three quarters of a mile
South of Passage Island, steer in with Choho Pagoda W. f S. until the peak
on Tatoi Island bears N. by W. ^ W., and the eastern end of Seatoi Island
S.S.W. i W., then haul to the southward, and pass a cable eastward of the
East point of Seatoi. Pound the South side of Seatoi at half a cable, and
when its western summit is on with the highest part of Tatoi, the vessel
•will be in the narro>v est part of the channel, which is here barely a cable
across.

Having passed Seatoi, a W.N.W. course will lead to the anchorage above
Pisai Island in mid-channel. By keeping this island westward of W. by
N. ^ N., the reef off Choho Pagoda will be avoided; and the southern edge
of the Boot will be cleared by not bringing Seatoi to the southward uf
E. by S. J S. ; the outline of this bank, however, is generally visible. The
opium vessels run in between the Lynx and Taheen Eocks, with the Si»uth
extremes of Seatoi Island and Ota Eock in line with the North extreme of
Pisai. The anchorage is North about IJ or 2 miles from Pisui, where the
channel is 3 cables wide.

If wishing to anchor on the North side of the Boot, steer to pass northward
of Tatoi Island, and if drawing less than 15 ft. a vessel may run up until
Choho Pagoda bears S. by W. ^ W., where she will have smooth water in
any weather, as the Boot forms an excellent breakwater. The North edge
of the Boot will be avoided by keeping the White Eocks southward of East.
A sunken rock lies 1 J cable from the northern shore, and N. by W. i W.
from the summit of Tatoi. There is good anchorage iu N.E. or northerly
I. A. 6 p

1026 THE COAST OF CHINA.

gales in Sh and 4 fathoms, with the summit of Tatoi S.E. by S. ; but in a
S. W. o-ale the former anchorage is to be preferred. The Boot may be crossed
by a vessel of light draught at high tide, but it should be sounded first, as
the sands are liable to shift.

The entrance of the small river, leading to the town of Chin-chu, is Smiles
"W. by N. f N. from Pisai Island. On the left bank near the entrance is a
circular fort, 4 or 5 miles above which is the town standing on the North
bank of the river. The channels to it are shoal and intricate, and the large
junks have to wait in the neighbourhood of Pisai for tide before they can
cross the flats, which are covered with artificial oyster beds.

Tong-bu Bay. — About 10 miles N.E. by E. of Chung-chi Point is the
town of Tong-b<i, south-westward of which is a large open bay or roadstead,
afi'ording anchorage in 7 to 4 fathoms, with good shelter in the N.E. mon-
soon ; it cannot, however, be recommended, on account of the exceedingly
rocky character of the coast.

Juno Rock is a cluster of rocky heads covered with coral, with 12 ft. at low
water, and 5J to 6 fathoms around, from which the West corner of ToDg-bu
wall bears N.E. If mile.

Pyramid Point, at 3 miles eastward of Tong-bu, appears a bold, black
face of land ; to the S.E. of it is a rock which never covers. To the eastward
of the Pyramid are several reefs, from the outermost of which the Pyramid
bears S.W. by W. | W. 6 cables.

Port Matheson, called by the Chinese Gulai, is the next inlet to the N.E.
of Chin-chu. It is only a roadstead, and that a bad one in the southerly
monsoon. There are no dangers in it except a rock lying North 4 cables
from the largest islet on the southern shore.

Meichen Sound, the next inlet North of Port Matheson, is 6 miles across
at the entrance, which may be recognized by the Ninepin Rock lying nearly
in the middle of it. A reef extends South from the Ninepin, and at the
distance of a mile in that direction is Square Rock, one of a cluster of rocka,
which does not cover at high tide ; thence the reef extends south-westward
If cable, and its outer part dries at low water. A large spar is moored
about 1 J mile S.W. of square Rock.

East, 6 cables from the Ninepin, is a flat patch of rocks awash at high
water, and between this patch and Eogues Point is good anchorage in the
N.E. monsoon. In the southerly monsoon vessels will find a good harbour
to the N.W. of Saddle Island, which bears N.W. by N. 3^ miles from the
Ninepin.

It is high water, full and change, in Meichen Sound, at O*" 30™ ; springs
rise 17 ft.

Sorrel Rock, bearing E. by N. 3f miles from Rogues Point, is 60 ft. high,
and has a detached rock three-quarters of a cable South of it.

Pinghai Bay, the next inlet N.E. of Meichen Sound, is 6 J miles wide at

THE OCKSEU ISLANDS AND LIGHTHOUSE. 1027

entrance, between the Rowan Islands on the West and Ping Point on the
East, and shoals gradually from 5 to 3 fathoms. Ping Rock, 90 feet hip-h
and conical shaped, lies 4 cables southward of the latter point; there is a
sunken rock S.W. by W. a quarter of a mile from it. The anchorage in
this bay is in 3 fathoms, off the town of Pinghai, with the Ping Eock bear-
ing S.E. by E.

Loutz Eock is about 5^ miles E.S.E. from Ping Eock, and between them,
If mile from Loutz, are two sunken rocks, named Loutz Shoal, from which
the Ping is in line with Marlin Spike Peak N.W. by W. \ W. ; and the
islet lying N.E. of the Loutz in one with the South Yit, E. f N. N.N. W. 2
cables from the above islet is a half-tide rock, and another S. f W. 8 cables
from the islet and East from the highest part of the Loutz.

The OCKSEU or WOKETJ GROUP « onsists of two islands, with a barren
rock in the centre joining the eastern island. The north-western island, the
largest, is 260 ft. above the sea, round-topped, with smooth sides, and bears
from tlie Sorrel Eock E. by S. I ^. 15 J miles, and from the South Tit S. by
W. J W. lOi miles. A strong tide ripple, or reef, appeared to break about
1^ mile W.N.W. of the western Ockseu Island.

LIGHTHOUSE, — On the high or West Ockseu Island stands a round stone
tower 64 ft. high, painted black. The surrounding buildings are painted
•white. The light, first exhibited in December, 1875, is a bright revolving
light, showing a flash every minute. It is elevated 286 ft. above the sea, and
through a clear atmosphere is visible 24 miles off.

LAM- YIT ISLAND, the southern and largest of the archipelago, called
the Eighteen Yits, fronts the deep and extensive inlet, Hungwha Sound. Off
the South point of the island is South Yit Islet, to the N.AV. of which will
be found a snug and excelleut anchorage, in 7 to 10 fathoms, in the N.Fl
monsoon. N.W., 2 miles from the South Yit, is a flat rock, always above
water ; and S. by E. 4 cables from this rock, is a reef awash at low tide.

Lam-yit Channel is on the West side of Lam-yit Island. A sand-bank
extends 2^^ miles in a southerly direction from the West point of Lam-yit fi-om
its South end, the South Yit bore E. f S. ; its western edge will be avoided
by keeping Lam Point (the West point of the island, which will be known by
its three chimneys) to the eastward of North. On the western side of the
channel there is also a rocky patch of If fathom, the eastern edge of which
bears S. by W. 2 miles from Clam Islet, the largest islet between Lam-yit
and the main.

Anchorage. — The Plover rode out a strong N.E. gale between Lam Point
and Clam Islet ; but better shelter will be found southward of Lam Point,
■where the junks anchor. Eor vessels of large draught there is anchorage in
4 or 5 fathoms, at 1^ mile northward of the point.

HUNGWHA SOUND.— Besides Lam-yit Island, there are many islxnds
and rocks within Hungwha Sound, bordering its shores, the principal ones

1028 THE COAST OF CHINA.

being near the entrauce points. The only passages that must be used to
enter it are, the Lam-yit and Himgwha Channels, and Hai-tan Strait.

Filots can be obtained at Chiu-chu. Hungwha River flows into the
western part of Hungwha Sound.

Hungwha Channel.— The Eighteen Yits are a scattered group of islands
lying N.E. and eastward of Lamyit Island, and extending over a space of
10 miles. On no account ought vessels to stand in among the Yits, as the
ground is very uneven.

Cliff Island lies 1^ mile northward of the North extreme of Lam-yit. From
this dangers extend £ r nearly 1^ mile to the N.E. by E. At 2 miles E.N.E.
of Cliff Island is North Fit Rock, surrounded by dangers, and lying a mile
northward of the N.W. point of Bed Yit, the largest of the Eighteen Yits.
The best channel into Hungwha Sound will be found by passing northward
of the North Yit and Cliff Island, and southward of the Passage Islands,
which lie 2 miles northward of Cliff Island. Henry Rocks, 2^ miles eastward
of the North Y'it, and S.S.W. IJ mile from White Island, are a dangerous
cluster of sunken rocks, lying W. by N. and E. by S. 1 mile in length. Eerr
Island lies N.E. by E. 2 J miles from White Islet, and has numerous dangers
lying South and S.E. of it. With White Island bearing W. by N., how-
ever, all these dangers will be clered.

Hungwha Channel leads out to seaward North of the Eighteen Yits, and
the northern side of which is bounded by the island and reefs off Vangan
Point.

Entering Hungwha Channel from the eastward, pass (taking care to avoid
the Sedan and Comet Eocks) between Double Yit and Sentry Island, and
westward of Sand Island and the rocky islets on its N.W. face, off which
there is anchorage, should daylight or the tide fail ; but the best shelter is
off Station Island, to the North of Chim Island.

On no account whatever pass between Sand, Sentry, Eeef, and Chim
Islands, as this locality has not been sufficiently examined, and beware of
the reefs eastward and southward of Eeef Island. Some of these have been
accurately placed. The Comet Rock, with 9 ft. water, lies If mile S. by W.
f W. from the summit of Eeef Island. Breaker Bock lies 1^ mile South of
the same. Sedan Bock, the outermost yet discovered, is of small extent,
with 8 feet water over it, steep-to, having 11 to 13 fathoms close around.
From its shoalest part, Eed Yit Island summit is just open northward of
the North extreme of Double Yit Island, bearing W. i N. ; and Chim Island
summit is in line with the eastern ^treme of the reef lying 3 cables westward
of Bent Island, bearing N. byW. ^ W.

HAI-TAN ISLAND. — This large and irregular shaped island, lying be-
tween the parallels of 25° 24' and 25° 40' N., is separated from the mainland
by the fine navigable strait bearing the same name. Its northern part is
high, the peak of Kiangshan Hills rising 1,420 ft. above the level of the sea,

HAI-TAN ISLAND. 1029

■whilst the eastern and western shores are low, and indented by deep sandy
bays. Numerous small islands and rocks occupy Hai-tan Strait, between
the island and the coast, and although it is not to be recommended to sailing
vessels except with a commanding breeze, being very intricate, yet the
coasting steamers and junks invariably use it; one of the latter was found
lying there, having being detained 27 days waiting for an opportunity to get
out at the northern end.

There is very good anchorage under Hai Head, the S.E. point of Hai-
tan Island, in the N.E. monsoon. It is reported free of rocks. H.M. gun-
boat Dwarf in 1872 anchored in 3J fathoms, with the outer point S.E. by E.,
and the easternmost village on the bay N.N.E. This anchorage is frequented
by junks.

To enter the South end of Hai-tan Strait, after passing Junk Sail, steer
North for Low Islet until the East end of Junk Sail and the West end of
Station Island are in line, keeping them so until Pass Island bears South ;
but be careful to shut the points in somewhat at the moment of passing the
Ashuelot Rocks,* or when Low Island will be coming on an East bearing.
Then steer N. ^ W. or N.N.W. as may be desirable to pass East or "West of
Flag Island.

Since the date of Kellett's and Collinson's Survey in 1843, the channels
North of Flag Island have materially altered, the old channel on the East
having decreased in depth of 17 ft. at its northern part, and a new channel,
the Wilson, on the western side of the strait, has 22 ft. at low water springs.
Between the two a middle ground 3 miles in length has grown up with only
4 to 6 feet water over it. The banks are generally discoloured, and their
edges show, but not invariably. In thick weather, especially when coming
from the northward, the Wilson channel, is preferable

The Cow^s Horn, a remarkable peak on the main to the northward of the
strait, kept in line with the summit of Slut Island N. \ W., leads clear of
all dangers to within a mile of the northern entrance.

The best channel out of Hai-tan Strait is eastward of Slut, between Slut
and Shingan Islands. The course is N.E. \ N. Eeefs extend from both
shores, narrowing the channel to 4 cables. Between Slut and Shingan
there are often strong tide rips and overfalls, which render the steerage
very difficult. For Pilots, see page 1025.

Tessara Islands are a group of four islets lying N.N.E. 6 miles from Slut
Island. There is nothing here sufficiently extensive to shelter a vessel in
N.E. monsoon, and it cannot be considered safe for large vessels to pass by
any of the channels inside Tessara Islands.

Red Rock is a small islet with reefs about it, lying S.E. by S. 3 miles from

* Siation I>land kept open of the point inside Junk Sail Kock, leads tliiough the channel
■westward of Ashuelot Rocks.

1O30 THE COAST OF CHINA.

Tessara Islands. Vessels should not close the Hai-tan shore to the eastward
of this rock.

Norton Hock,, about 50 ft. high, with a rock awash half a mile westward of
it, lies East 6^ miles from Tessara Islands.

TURNABOUT ISLAND, lying E.S.E. about 4 miles from Hae Head, in
lat 25° 26' N., long. 119° 58' -VI" E., has two small islets off it, and Sunda
Hock, dry 3 ft. at low water spring tides, bears North from its northern ex-
tremity, distant 3J cables, with foul ground inside.

Also a rock, awash at low water spring tides, lies South of the South point
of Turnabout Island, distant IJ cable.

Vessels should not approach Turnabout Island within three-quarters of a
mile. The lighthouse keepers report that several steam vessels have been
hazarded, by rounding the South point of the islaod too closely.

A LIGHTHOUSE, 54 ft. in height, black, surrounded by white dwellings,
is built on the summit of Turnabout Island, from which is shown a fixed
Iright light, visible all round. It is elevated 256 ft. above the sea, and should
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 23 miles.

WHITE DOG ISLANDS, called by the Chinese Pih-keun, are 22 miles
N.N.E. \ E. from the peak of the Kiangshan Hills on Hai-tan Island, and
8 J miles S.E. of the entrance of the Eiver Min. They consist of two large
and one smaller islet, named Middle Dog, South Dog, and Tong-sha Island.
Tong-sha, the western and largest of the group, has a reef of rooks running
off its West extreme, terminated by a square islet called the Breakwater.
The highest part of the island is flat-topped, and 590 ft. above the sea

Eocks and reefs extend both northerly and westerly from the Middle
Dog, but the outer ones always show ; a rock on which the sea generally
breaks, lies N.E. by E. ^ E. 11 cables from its N.E. point. The channel
between Middle Dog and Tong-sha is safe. The islands are inhabited by
a few fishermen, and were, at the time of the survey, occasionally visited by
pirates.

A LIGHTHOUSE, white in colour, and 35 ft. high, is erected on the N.E.
end of Middle Dog Island. It shows a fixed bright light, varied by a bright
flash every half minute, visible all round, except to the westward, where it is
intercepted by the higher ridges of the White Dogs. It is obscured by
Tong-sha when bearing between E. by S. f S. and East; by the northern
hill of Middle Dog when between E. | N. and N.E. by E. ^ E ; and by the
Bouthern hill of the same when between N.E. by E. and N.E. J N. It is
elevated 257 ft. above the sea, and in clear weather should be seen from a
distance of 23 miles.

Anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, for vessels of any draught, will be found
tinder Tong-sha Island. Small vessels will be well sheltered in 18 ft., close
under the Breakwater, and here whole fleets of Chinese junks remain during
foul weather. As the water decreases gradually towards Tong-sha, larg©

PASSAGE FROM LAM-YIT TO WHITE DOG ISLANDS. 1031

vessels may approach as convenient, bearing in mind that the rise and fall
is 18 ft. H.M.S. Cornwallis anchored here for five days, with strong north-
easterly winds, and rode easy, with the Breakwater bearing N. J W., the
village N.N.E., and the Middle Dog E. ^ S.

The Passage from Lam-yit to White Dog Islands may be considered as
the most difficult porti(m of the coast that a vessel has to contend with in
the N E. monsoon, and it is believed there are few men who know the coast
of China but will allow that Turnabout Island is well named. The attempt
of the flood to force its way through Hai-tan Strait forces the water back,
and occasions a strong current off Kwing Bay, at the N.E. end of Hai-tan.
It is a great misfortune that this bay does not afford shelter, as it would
prove an uncommonly good halfway house ; it is, however, one of the worst
places on the coast of China the Plover dropt anchor in, being full of rocks,
with a heavy swell. Sailing vessels have, therefore, no alternative but to
stand boldly off and trust to a slant on the Formosa side, or take the Hai-tan
Strait. The open sea is, however, preferable, notwithstanding that some
vessels have got successfully through the strait ; yet it requires local know-
ledge and a handy vessel to prevent great detention.

CHAPTEE XXII.

FORMOSA AND THE PESCADORES ISLANDS.

FORMOSA ISLAND, 210 miles in length and 80 miles wide at its broadest
part, is high and mountainous throughout its whole extent, except at the
central part of the West coast, where a broad alluvial plain stretches from
the mountains to the sea, and on which is situate the Chinese capital of
Tai-wan-fu.

The Chinese have long been in possession of the plain and the harbours
and villages of the "West and North coasts, but the East coast is still peopled
by aboriginal and warlike tribes, not subject to the Chinese, yet who hold
intercourse with them of a more or less friendly character. The population
is estimated to number 1^ million.

Coal is found in many parts of the island, and in the North is worked by
European machinery. It is of a quick burning nature, gives out much heat,
and fairly answers for steamers, if mixed with a harder kind. Sulphur is
also found. Among the products of the island may be mentioned rice, cam-
phor, wheat, co£Fee, tobacco, tea, and sugar. The cultivation of the tea plant
seems to be on the increase. The climate is not healthy for Europeans, being
very damp during a greater portion of the year.

In consequence of repeated acts of outrage and murder towards the ship-
wrecked crews of foreign vessels, in revenge for former injuries, a treaty
was concluded on 15th October, 1867, with the hostile tribes of the South
part of Formosa, by the United States Consul of Amoy, by which the
southern end of Formosa was thought to be rendered safe to those driven on
its coasts by distress. The outray^es continued, however, and a Japanese
force was sent there in 1871 to punish the natives.

The BASHEE CHANNEL, frequented by vessels making the eastern
passage to China, is 80 miles wide between the Batanes (page 937) and the
South end of Formosa, but its navigable breadth is greatly contracted by the
dangerous Gadd Eock, which must be remembered when sea roum is needed
to avoid the track of a typhoon.

BOTEL-TOBAGO— SOUTH CAPE. 1033

Gadd Eock, or Cumbrian Beef, in the fairway of the Bashee Channel, is
inlat. 21°42J'N., long. 121° 39' E., Little Botel Tobago bearing from it
N. I W. IJ^ miles. It may be considered one of the worst hidden dangers
known, being steep-to, with deep water all round. At low water the sea
would probably break, but the locality is generally covered by violent tide
ripples.

When passing southward of Gad Eock in thick weather or in the night,
make allowance for a northerly current, which is generally experienced in
light winds and during the S.W. monsoon. Several vessels during light
winds have been drifted by the current between Formosa and Botel-tobago.

BOTEL-TOBAGO is high, 71 miles long, N.W. and S.E., appears in form
of a saddle, or with a gap in it when viewed from a S.S.W. or N.N.E. di-
rection, and is visible about 50 miles from the mast-head. The island is
well inhabited, and its highest part is crowned with trees ; the N.E. peak is
1,850, and the West peak 1,820 ft. above the sea.

Indifferent anchorage was found by H.M.S. Sylvia in 1867, about half a
mile from the beach, on the North side of the island, in 21 fathoms, black
sand and rock. The coast is rocky in almost every part, and needle rocks
are seen in many parts of the island ; and if the ground under water assumes
the character of that which is above, a vigilant look-out for rocks is neces-
sary when rowing along the coast. When circumnavigating the island deep
water was found at a mile off shore. The island is densely inhabited, but
the natives were timid.

Little Botel-Tobago is a small island of considerable height, lying about
S.S.E. 3i miles from the southern part of Botel-Tobago ; foul ground ap-
pears to extend all round this island.

Alceste Shoal, formerly marked on the chart in about lat. 22° 5' N., long.
121° 18' E., is supposed to have no existence.

Vele-rete Bocks, in lat. 21° 45' N., long. 120° 49^' E., lie 9 miles S. by W.
from South Cape, and on nearly the same parallel, and about 47 miles west-
ward of Gadd Eock in the Bashee Channel. The highest is S. by W. 9 miles
from the South Cape of Formosa, and with two others is from 15 to 25 feet
above the sea. The channel between them and the South end of Formosa is
safe ; but very heavy tide ripples are often experienced.

Caution. — The northern current of the Japan stream sets with great
strength over these rocks to the north-eastward.

SOUTH CAPE or NAN-SHA, in lat. 21° 54' N., long. 120° 50' E.; is low,
and, together with the one which is three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. of it,
formed of coral limestone. At 4 miles to the N.W. is a peculiarly rugged
hill, 1,035 ft. high, from which the land slopes down gradually to the cape.
Farther northward is a high, double-peaked mountain, visible 60 miles in
clear weather.

I. A. 6 Q

1034 THE ISLAND OF FORMOSA.

EAST COAST of FORMOSA, extending 200 miles to the N.N.E., is
mountainous, and with the exception of Sau-o Bay is without harbours, and
deep water will be found close in to the land. The mountains rise almost
immediately from the sea ; their sides in some places are cultivated, and
scattered houses are seen.

This coast is not visited by the full strength of the N.E. monsoon, which
probably results from the mountainous character of the country preventing
the breeze blowing home. Sailing vessels, however, experiencing strong
gales at 20 miles to the eastward, might feel cautious in venturing in-shore.
Nor is there any necessity to run to leeward ; but if, when beating up, they
should experience the breeze declining in strength, with less sea on the
western board, particularly between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., or up to sunset, they
will find it advantageous to hug the coast within a moderate distance ; but
good judgment and caution are requisite, as sudden loss of wind, attended
by inconvenient swell, might be attended, if followed by calm, with imminent
danger.

Double FeaJc, a mountain on the coast 58 miles to the northward, is about
2,500 ft. high. Samasana Island, 15J miles from the coast abreast Double
Peak, is in lat. 22° 39' 26" N., long, (assumed) 121° 28' 48" E., and lies
N. f W. 34 miles from Botel- Tobago. H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1867, anchored in
the North bay in 13 fathoms. The anchorage is not recommended. It is
advisable to avoid the lee side of the island, as calms, eddies, and variable
winds are likely to cause delay. Black Roch Bay, in lat. 23° 6' 30" N., and
long, (assumed) 121° 26' E., and 22 miles northward of Double Peak, might
afi'ord shelter from S.W. and southerly gales, but the bottom is rocky and
uneven. The coast North of Black Eock Bay is rugged and rocky. The
lower slopes of the hills are covered with grass ; behind the hills the moun-
tains attain an elevation of 5,000 and 6,000 ft., and are clothed with dense
forest. Choch-e-Day, 60 miles northward of Black Eock Bay, is in lat. 24°
6^' N. The inhabitants were nearly naked, and used threatening gestures
to the surveying party. The coast from Chock-e-day to Dome Point, 20
miles to the northward, is the boldest and most precipitous that can be con-
ceived, the mountains rising 7,000 ft. almost perpendicularly from the water's
edge. Dome Point, 650 ft. high, is 3 miles South of Sau-o Bay.

Boudruet Rochs, reported to be about 65 ft. high, and in lat. 24° 10' N.,
long. 122° 34' E., would be 48 miles from the nearest point of Formosa.

Reported Dangers. — A shoal, which would lie in lat. 24° 17' N., long. 122°
48', was reported in 1844 as showing heavy breakers. Another shoal in lat.
24° 30' N., long. 122° 49' E., 3 miles in extent, E. by N. and W. by S., is
reported as lying N.W. by W., distant about 10 miles from Kumi. The
ripples are very strong in this vicinity, and it is possible that the above
dangers are not existing, the ripple having been mistaken for breakers.

Sau-o Bay, in lat. 24° 38' N., long. 121° 50' E., will be found an excellent

SAMTIAU POINT. 1035

place of shelter for vessels working up this coast against the N.E. monsoon.
Sau-o or Arhji Rocks, 98 ft. high, lie off the entrance of Sau-o Bay, about a
mile from the northern promontory. To the N.W. of the Arlyi Rocks is
much foul ground, with rocks awash, generally breaking. Breakwater Reef
(or Tong-sim-tai), about 2 cable in extent, N.E. and S.W., lies a little more
than half a mile from the shore, and nearly in the centre of the bay.

The inhabitants of Sau-o Bay are mostly Chinese fishermen. Fresh sup-
plies were obtained.

There is good holding ground in the outer part of the bay in 10 to 13
fathoms, black sand and mud, E. by S. of Breakwater Eeef, and with the
South point of the bay about South, but the anchorage is unsafe with easterly
winds. The best anchorage is under Breakwater Eeef, but in rounding its
North end a berth of 2 cables must be given, to avoid the Serpent Eock, of
11 ft. water, which lies 1^ cable N.W. of the highest rock on the reef (the
clearing mark is the easternmost rock of the Sau-o Eeef in a line with a
conspicuous rocky islet off the North point), when vessels may haul to the
southward, and anchor in 7 fathoms, with the conical or high rock bearing
E.S.E. distant about 2^ cables ; or if of 12 ft. draught with the rock bearing
East. The water shoals rapidly. It is high water, full and change, at o*" 50"
and the rise 3 to 6 ft. The tidal streams are weak in the bay ; the flood
sets along the coast South and the ebb North, with a velocity of 1^ knot
per hour.

Approaching Sau-o Bay from the northward, pass half a mile eastward of
the Sau-o or Arlyi Eocks, the highest of which may be seen 8 or 10 miles off
in clear weather, and when Breakwater Eeef bears W. I N. haul up for it.
From the south-eastward vessels can boldly approach the South point, off
which reefs extend 2 cables,

Ealeewan River. — At 6 miles to the northward of Sau-o Bay and 10 miles
S. W. ^ S. of Steep Island has only 3 ft. on the bar at low water, the rise of
tide being from 2 to 3 ft. The banks and coun^^ry on either side of the river
were everywhere under cultivation, principally with rice, Indian corn, and
millet ; sugar-cane also in small quantities. The inhabitants behaved with
great civility.

Steep Island, 14 miles northward of Sau-o Bay, is inhabited by Chinese,
and cultivated in terraces to its summit, which is a sharp conical peak, about
1,200 ft. above the sea. S.W. 1^ mile from Steep Island is a small islet,
with a rock to the S.W. of it.

SAMTIAU POINT, the N.E. extreme of Formosa, is 10 miles N. by E. ^
E. from Steep Island. The point itself is low and flat, but a little inland is
a hill range which terminates in a bluff. Here the coast line turns abruptly
to the N.W. for 30 miles, and midway is the harbour of Kelung, described
hereafter.

1036 THE ISLAND OF FORMOSA.

Petou Point, N.W. by N. 7 miles from Samtiau, is'a'peninsula 400 feet
hio-h, and from a distance appears like an island. The small boat harbour
and fishing village of Petou is close to the westward of it. The coast from
thence to Kelung Harbour is steep-to, all the off-lying rocks, which are of
sandstone, showing above water. The most remarkable feature on this coast
is Dome Peak, which makes in that form from the N.E.

Chiinmo Bay is 5 miles westward of Petou Point, and in it a vessel might
anchor if in distress, or forced in by a northerly wind. _The point on its
eastern side is foul.

Directions for making the passage along the East coast are given in pages
91—94.

The WEST COAST of FORMOSA has been surveyed by Messrs. Wilds
and Stanley, of H.M. surveying vessels Swallow and Dove, and Commander
E. Brooker, of H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1867.

Kwa-liang Bay is 6 miles W. by N. from South Cape (page 1033). In the
N.E. monsoon good anchorage will be found in 10 or 12 fathoms, about half
a mile from the shore, anywhere on the North and N.E. sides of the bay.

SOUTH-WEST POINT, 1 mile West of Black Point, is the angle of the
coast where it turns to the northward. The small bay of Chim-kong-o,
North of it, has 23 fathoms at half a mile off shore, and 52 fathoms at a
quarter of a mile off its North point, where are strong tide ripples.

Tossapon Hill is on the south-western promontory. The fort, erected in
consequence of the treaty mentioned on page 1032, is situated over Black and
S.W. Points, and is therefore plainly visible from the sea, and had the
Chinese flag flying on it.

Gooswa Promontory extends in a N. by W. direction 7 miles[ from S.W.
point. The promontory is backed by an inland range, Ba-swa, rising to the
height of 2,235 ft., 8 miles N.N.E. ^ E. of S.W. point. The bold shore of
the promontory consisting of dark rocky cliffs is steep-to. Its most conspi-
cuous feature is the sand beach of Chim-kong-o Bay. Aou-iva-nah is a nook
at the head of the small bay which lies immediately North of Gooswa pro-
montory. The reefs from either shore meet within a cable, forming the
entrance to a basin about 2 cables in diameter, having a depth of 5 to 3
fathoms. To the northward, the coast is inhabited by Chinese, who move
about armed for protection against the natives, with whom they carry on a
perpetual warfare.

Liang-kiau or Expedition Bay, 3 miles in extent, between Bay Hill and
Lang-kiu Point, 2 miles North of it, is open to all westerly winds, but affords
good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon. The approach to the bay is quite
clear, but a sandy spit runs out three-quarters of a mile from the North point
of the bay, on which account vessels are recommended not to hug the shore

APE HILL. 1037

too closely. Lang-kiu is the principal town or village of the district, and the
most southern settlement in which Chinese authority is recognized.

Caution. — About 5 miles N. by W. from Liang-kiau Bay, when not in
soundings, the leadsman struck what must have been a peaked rock at 9
fathoms, which caught the lead line and nearly pulled the leadsman out of
the chains.— (H. M.S. Flamer, 1865.)

San-Liau Bay, North of Liang-kiau Point, aflFords anchorage in 3 fathoms
at 3 cables from the shore. All the low shore of Liang-kiau Point is bor-
dered by an extensive reef. Le-liang-swa, 2,500 to 4,000 ft. high, is a moun-
tain range on the coast North of Liang-kiau, extending 6 miles North and
South.

Hong Kong, 6 miles North of Liang-kiau Point, is a large Chinese village.
Che-tong-ka, N. by W. 13 miles from Gooswa Promontory, and 4 J miles from
Hong Kong, is on a point, bordered by a reef; the coast is bold and steep-
to. Vessels can anchor anywhere along the coast in 8 or 9 fathoms. Pong-li
is a small Chinese town, 7 miles N.N.W. ^ W. of Che-tong-ka, and a short
distance inland, about a mile northward of a remarkable square clump of
trees on the beach, called Kay-a-haou.

Lambay Island, or Seo-liu-kiu, in lat. 22" 20^' N., long. 120=' 22i' E., is
flat, the most elevated part being 258 ft. No anchorage can be obtained
near this island, but a mud-bank, havirg 15 to 26 fathoms water over it, is
reported at 3 miles eastward of it. Eeefs extend a mile off the N.E. and
S.E. points of the island.

Tang-Kang River has its entrance N.N.E. 7 miles from Lambay Island and
1 1 from Pong-li ; at low water there are only 4 ft. on the bar. The town
stands near the entrance, and has about 20,000 inhabitants.

Ape Hill, 1,110 ft. high, called by the natives Ta-kau, is N. by W.J W.,
18 miles from Lambay Island. It appears like a truncated cone; its barren,
rugged sides rise with a steep slope from the sea, facing which is a large
white land-slip. At 41 miles N.E. of Ape Hill is another remarkable hill,
700 ft. high, named Whalehaclc; and N.N.E. , 12 miles, there is a small
triangular-shaped hill, and a large detached piece of table-land resembling
a quoin on a North and South bearing. These are the only landmarks on
this part of the coast, which is all very low, and of these Ape Hill is the most
useful, as it stands out on the coast line, and is frequently seen distinctly
when all the others are shrouded in mist.

Saracen Head, 173 ft. high, 2 miles South of Ape Hill, is surmounted by a
Signal Staff. It is a huge nearly level block of a mole-like appearance, bounded
on the sea face by a line of precipitous cliffs rising from the water's edge,
and which, jutting through the beach to seaward for about 300 yards, forms
a sheltered harbour for small vessels in the strength of the N.E. monsoon.
This mole is separated from the hill by a deep channel about 60 yards wide,
which is the entrance to the little port of Ta-kau-kon.

1038 THE ISLAND OF FOEMOSA.

Anchorage in the N.E. monsoon is good and safe under Ape Hill, which
stretches out so as to afford smooth water. In the S.W. monsoon heavy
rollers come in, making it undesirable to remain at anchor there.

Ryder Roch, half a mile off shore, with Ape Hill bearing E. by N., was
reputed as above water in 1876.

TA-KAU-KON, or Harbour of Takow, the Consular port of Tai-wan-fu,
is the only harbour on the "West coast of Formosa available for vessels of 12
feet draught. It is a small basin just within the entrance of a great lagoon.
The entrance to it is immediately North of Saracen Head, where the fair
channel is only 200 ft. wide.

The Bar is formed by a narrow ridge of sand, curving outwards and ex-
tending from under the bluff of Saracen Head round towards the shore at
half a mile North of the entrance. There are 10 to 11 ft. over its North and
South parts at low water springs, but over the central part, N.W. of the
entrance, only 7 to 9 ft. It consists of loose sand, and is said to be constantly
shifting.

The harbour is immediately within the entrance. The anchorage is too
confined to allow a vessel to swing, it is therefore necessary to moor head
and stern. In 1873 there was water only for vessels drawing 9 ft., larger
vessels having to anchor outside the bar. The Chinese town or village
stands on the South side at the back of Saracen Head. Here is the British
Consulate. V/ater can be obtained from a spring on the North shore, and
care must be taken that it is not procured from the wells on the South side.
Fresh beef of inferior quality is supplied, also vegetables, besides pigs,
fowls, ducks, eggs, rice, sugar, and fish.

Takau was opened to trade in 1864, but as its importance arises from the
fact of its being the port of Tai-wan fu during the S.W. monsoon, and the
only accessible one where ships can then lie with safety, its trade is chiefly
limited to that period. The pilots are Chinese, and are under the superin-
tendence and regulations of the European harbour master. The signal sta-
tion on Saracen Head is under the direction of the harbour master. It is
high water, full and change, at Takau, at 8'' 30", springs rise 4 ft.

Directions. — If obliged to run for the entrance in bad weather, bring it to
bear E. by S. ^ S., and run boldly in. Keep close to the outer North rock
(steep-to), and haul close round the point, but not within 10 yards, as there
is a rock inside, within that distance, with only 4 ft. on it at low water. As
the rocks are neared, starboard the helm and round the northern head close-
to, shooting into a little sandy bay, where a vessel may touch the ground
with her fore-foot without sustaining any damage. Great care is required if
entering at springs on the ebb, which runs at the rate of 4 or 5 knots through
the entrance. The harbour is also difficult of exit in the S.W. monsoon. It
is said to be shallowing year by year. At present, at the outside, it can con-
tain twelve vessels of 1 2 ft. draught, moored head and stern ; but it is bus-

AMPING EOAD— TAI-WAN FU. 1039

ceptible of great improvement at small expense, and as Formosa becomes
more opened to commercial enterprise this place must advance in im-
portance.

The Coast, northward for 20 miles between Ape Hill and the old Dutch
Fort Zealandia, is nearly a straight line of beach, pierced by four small
streams, the banks of which are densely populated by fishermen, who appear
to be well fed and clothed and a happy and contented people.

The old Dutch ruined fortress, built in 1630, and now surmounted by a
large tree, visible 8 or 9 miles from a vessel's deck, is the only conspicuous
landmark in this neighbourhood, except a large clump of trees If mile N.W.
of the fort, on the outer sand-bar. The fort stands about two-thirds of a
mile from the sea, and about it has grown up, along the continually rising
mud and sand-banks, the village of Amping.

AMPING ROAD, off an opening in the beach, which is the nearest ap-
proach to Tai-wan fu from the sea, is an open roadstead, where, during the
strength of the N.E. monsoon, from December to March, capital sheltered
anchorage with smooth water may be found, in 5^ fathoms, at 2 miles S.W.
of Fort Zealandia. During the rest of the year the chances of S.W. winds
render this position an unsafe one, and anchorage should be sought farther
out, but in the strength of the S.W. monsoon no vessel could lie off a coast
so fully exposed to its full force, and the heavy rollers which accompany it.
Then also the bar is most dangerous, and cannot be passed by the cargo
boats for days and weeks together.^-' Catamarans are used as at Takau, and
are managed by the Chinese with great skill. Trade ceases entirely for four
months, viz., from June till September, all goods being then sent to Takau
for shipment. The anchorage should be approached from the northward
with caution, and the lead used constantly.

Amping has a population about equal to Takau, a resident Mandarin, and
a superintendent and tide-waiters of Chinese customs. The British Consul,
a Medical Missionary, and a Surveyor of Customs reside at Tai-wan fu.
Excellent fresh water is supplied from the latter place.

Between Amping and Tai-wan fu, 2 miles S.E. from the fort, is a large
expanse of mud flat which at times during the S.W. monsoon is entirely
covered with water. A narrow creek or canal runs up to the West gate of
the city, by which cargo boats can go up at high water.

TAI-WAN FU, the capital of Formosa, is a prefectural city of 70,000

* The tar was last crossed in 1869 by H.M. gunboat Bustard, drawing 7 feet, but its
channel is constantly shifting, and, like the harbour within, shoaling rapidly. The same
change is taking place all about this part of the coast, for where good harbours existed
formerl)-, with 15 to 20 ft. water, there is not now sufficient to float a junk. According to
Dutch and other records, the sea at one time extended to the fort inside the city. H.M.
ships are now prohibited from entering this harbour, by order of the Commander-in-Chief.

1040 ,THE ISLAND OF FOEMOSA.

inhabitants, surrounded by a wall 20 ft. bigh, quadrangular, and 5 miles in
extent.

Vuyloy Shoal, about half a mile in extent, and with only 8 to 12 ft. on it
at low water, lies upwards of a mile offshore, S. by E. 4 J miles from the
entrance of Port Kok-si-kon, W. by N. f N. 4^ miles from Fort Zealandia,
and S.W. by W. i W. 2| miles from Joss Islet. With southerly winds the
sea breaks heavily on it, but with off-shore or N.E. winds there is but little
break. The soundings are 4J to 5 fathoms at 1-^ mile westward of the bank,
and 3 fathoms between it and the shore. Vessels bound from Kok-si-kon to
Ta-kau, will pass westward of this shoal by keeping 3 miles off the sand
bars fronting this part of the coast, or not shoaling to less than 4^ or 5
fathoms, until Fort Zealandia bears East. This will also clear two sand-
banks which uncover at low water. They lie W.N.W. 2J miles from Fort
Zealandia, and three-quarters of a mile West of the tree clumps.

Tides. — The flood stream sets in a N.N.W. direction for IJ to 2 knots an
hour along this part of the coast. The ebb runs S.S.E., except near the
entrance of Kok-he-mung, 3f miles N.W. of Zealandia Fort, where its
direction is S. by W. out of the harbour.

PORT KOK-SI-KON, the North point of entrance to which, Gull Point, is
32 miles N.N.W. of Saracen Head, is the outlet of several small, shallow
streams, which here unite and form a channel through the mass of sand-
banks fronting the coast. This channel or port runs N.E. and S.W., and,
taking the 3-fathom line as its boundary inside, is three-quarters of a mile
long and only 2 cables broad, with 4i fathoms in the middle ; it will be,
therefore, necessary to moor N.W. and S.E. The bar has 12 ft. on it at low
water springs. The deepest part is generally marked by the natives with
bamboos ; but as the channel is both wide and straight, and the bottom re-
markably even, it is by no means difficult of access for vessels of 12 or 13 ft.
draught at high tide. The channel and sand-banks are said to have altered
since the survey. It is high water, full and change, at IP 30", rise
about 3 ft.

Directions. — The high land of Formosa, immediately over Port Kok-si-kon,
may be distinctly seen in very clear weather from the Pescadores, but as it
is generally obscured, and the coast low and sandy, it will be prudent at all
times, when bound to that port from the westward, to be certain of the
vessel's position before losing sight of East Island, or one of the southern
islands of that group.

The mast heads of a large fleet of junks usually at anchor in the small
harbour of Kolc-he-mung, 5 miles S.E. by E. of Kok-si-kon, will serve as a
guide on approaching the coast ; and when 3 or 5 miles from the shore,
three clumps of huts and trees (the southernmost clump abreast West Point
being the largest and most conspicuous), Joss Islet, and Fort Zealandia, are
objects sufficiently well defined to mark the locality. Joss Islet has a clump

POET KOK-SI-KON. 1041

of dark trees on its southern end, and the Joss House on it has a whit© front
to seaward. Ung-lo and So-co,, to the south-eastward, are remarkable hills,
and may generally be seen when the mountains in the interior are hidden.
The clouds sometimes rest upon them, when they appear as the highest land
in the vicinity. Ung-lo, 1,080 ft. high, is the southern termination of a long
table range which falls steeply for a few hundred feet, and rises again to the
round hill of So-co 880 ft. high.

The Coast for 20 miles to the northward of Fort Zealandia has no dis-
tinguishing feature, the highest bushes and huts being but a few feet above
the low level land. Kakaou, 7 miles northward of Kok-si-kon, is a small
and narrow inlet, as is also Paiv-tay-chui, N.N.E. \ E., 11 miles from Ka-
kaou. Four miles W.N.W. of the entrance to Paw-tay-chui are the Atj-aio
Banks. Ay-aw Creek is at the northern part of the bay, formed by the
Wanckan Banks and the low opposite shore. The creek is approached from
the 8.W., between the Ay-aw Banks and the South Wanckan Shoal.

Wanckan or Chin-ne-yah Banks form the westernmost part of the Island
of Formosa. The South end is in lat. 23° 31' N., long. 120° 2' E., 24 miles
northward of Kok-si-kon. To the southward the bank at low water dries
nearly 2 miles, and continues in a N. by E. direction for 1 1 miles. The
Chinese say that there are many junks and ships lost on them during the
year. When coming from the North or South there are no land-marks to
guide the navigator, and the strong tides experienced reud<.r a ship's position
at all times doubtful.

The Pescadores Channel is narrowed to a breadth of 3 miles between
Outer Wanckan Shoal and the Nine-feet Reef which lies W. by S. \ S. from
it, and which is 4 miles S.S.E. ^ E. of Three Island, the easternmost islet of
the Pescadores Group.

The Coast from the hut on the sandy patch of the South extreme of the
Wanckan Banks to Lohiang, in lat. 24° 3' N., is low, and has no distinguish-
ing feature, the bushes and huts being only a few feet above the land. This
uninteresting seaboard becomes even more dreary at low water, when the
mud and sand-flats uncover for miles.

East 8 miles from Lo-kiang is a peak, 7 01 ft. high, and between them is
a sand-hill. To the westward of the town of Lo-kiang is a small outlet,
marked by two bamboo beacons; in this creek a great number of junks find
anchorage. From Lo-kiang the coast trends N.N.E., with extensive mud
flats ; but having passed the village of Goche, 1 3 miles to the northward, the
flats uncover only for a distance of half a mile. Goche is situated at the
northern extremity of the great alluvial plain, which extends as far south-
ward as Tai-wan fu, a distance of 80 miles.

Off Wanckan, and as far as Goche, a distance of 50 miles, the soundings
off the low coast being shallow and irregular, ships should not stand into a
I. A. 6 b

1042 THE ISLAND OF FORMOSA.

depth of less than 10 fathoms; and the strong tides which run round the
Wanckan banks and reefs should also be borne in mind. From about 3
miles North of Goche to Tongsiau the coast can be approached to a mile,
when soundings of not less than 10 and 12 fathoms will be found. The tides
along this coast are less strong than olf Wanckan.

Tyka or Tai-kia, the principal town of the first hilly district North of the
plain. It stands 3 miles from the sea on the banks of the Tyan-kiang, a
small stream, 8 miles northward of Goche. The entrance is marked by
beacons. The town is situated between two detached hills northward of the
Goche range, and which are described as the most striking features of the
coast; the southern hill, Stone Peak, is 501 ft. high; the northern is a re-
markable square topped hill, 743 ft. high, seen from the sea in all directions.

The Mow-lung-8ui, a considerable stream, on which, a mile above its en-
trance, is the large village of Tongsiau, is 8 miles north-eastward of the
Tyan-kiang. Between the two, 7 miles inland, a rocky-topped range rises
to the height of 2,227 ft. Mount Sylvia is E. J S. 35 miles from Tong-siau,
and 15 miles nearer in the same direction is Mount Royalist, 9,000 ft. high.
Petroleum springs have been discovered 15 or 20 miles inland, a few miles
beyond the first flat-topped ridge.

Port Heong-san, in lat. 24° 41' N., is available for vessels of light draught,
and affords room for several large junks. Table Hill or Hong-san-ki, 360 ft.
high, and 1\ miles N.N.E. f E. from Heong-san, is a conspicuous object.

PAKSA POINT, the N.W. point of Formosa, lies 10 miles N.N.E. \ R
from Table Hill. An elevated sand hill stands at its extremity. The point
is not bold ; shoal water extends 1 J or 2 miles northward of it, which has
been observed to break at 1 j miles off shore.

From Paksa to Tam-sui Harbour, a distance of 22 miles, the coast line
curves in an E.N.E. direction ; the first 14 miles being low with sand hills,
and along this part reels project about half a mile off shore, with soundings
of 7 fathoms well clear of them, and there are numerous creeks in some of
which junks are seen lying. The low land is succeeded by table land about
600 ft. high and steep-to, until within 2 miles of Tam-sui.

DIRECTIONS. — As far as Lieutenant Gordon was enabled to examine the
N.W. coast, it was his opinion that a great advantage would be obtained, if,
instead of hugging the coast of China or beating up in the middle of For-
mosa Strait during the N.E. monsoon, sailing vessels were to reach well
over, and at all events during the day stand close in to the Formosa shore,
particularly on the ebb tide. The latter stream was always found setting
strong to the N.E., whereas the flood ran very weak to the S.S.W., the
former having the advantage over the latter of at least 8 miles every 24
hours.

The time of high water, full and change, on the N.W. coast of Formosa
is at nuou. The bottom is dark sand, with, occasionally shells and broken

TAM-SUI HARBOUR. 1043

stones ; soundings of 30 to 40|fathoniR'iiear the shore, and 25 to 17 fathoms
at 10 to 20 miles off. The water commences shoaling about 1^ or 2 miles off
shore, and the depths decrease rapidly. The sea near the coast in moderate
weather is smooth, the wind blowing along the land.

TAM-SUI HARBOTJR is formed in the- lower reach of Tam-sui River.
South of the river entrance is a remarkable double hill, the North peak of
which is 2,014 ft. above the sea. The river has a funnel-shaped entrance,
where is the bar, and the shares of which are low, with sand hills, bordered
on the South side by sand and mud flats, and on the North by a stony flat,
on which is a small Chinese lighthouse, only used occasionally.

The bar is a mile in extent ; the fairway channel over it is direct, 1 to
2 cables in width, and has a depth of 7 to 8 ft. at low-water springs. The
river within is three-quarters of a mile broad, but the South side is filled
with mud banks. The deep water channel is only a cable wide between the
banks off the low points of entrance, and within preserves the same breadth
along the North shore for the distance of a mile with 12 to 15 ft. water.
The white fort and entrance beacon are on the North point of entrance ; the
old Dutch red fort, which is the British consulate, is half a mile higher up
on the same side, and above is the town of Hoo-wei, at the lower part of
which is the custom-house. Foreigners have not unfrequently been insulted
in this town, the lower classes of which are lawless and turbulent.

Five miles above Hoo-wei the main branch of the Tam-sui River runs to
the S.E., on the right bank of which, about 13 miles from the entrance, is
the town of Mang-kia or Bang-ka, the largest in the North of Formosa.
About /) miles above Mang-kia a smaller branch enters from the southward,
and numerous other tributary streams feed this river, which is said to take
its rise 70 or 80 miles above Tam-sui Harbour, and wind its course among
the high mountain ranges of the interior. A confluent branch takes a turn
at Kang-tow, 6 miles from the entrance, and atter several small rapids ends
a few miles from Kelung, where the coal mines are situated.

The exports of Tamsui and Kelung consist chiefly of tea, rice, camphor,
and coal, amounting, in 1871, to £160,367. Grood water and provisions of
all kinds are to be obtained ; bullocks, pigs, goats, poultry, vegetables, and
fruit in profusion. Water is brought oti in sanpans at I5 dollars the ton.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Tam-sui Harbour at ll*" 45™.,
springs rise 7 to 10 ft.

Directio7is. — If approaching Tam-sui from the westward, steer midway
between the two mountains, one of which rises on either side the entrance,
until the leading marks to cross the bar are discerned, but as the channel
across the bar is liable to shift from the effects of freshets or gales, no vessel
should enter Tam-sui for the first time without a pilot, one of whom can
generally be obtained ofl the port, or^at the^village just inside the white

1044 THE ISLA.ND OF FOEMOSA.

fort.* If intending to anchor, do not stand into less than 8 fathoms, unless
in a steam-vessel, for the anchorage ofif the harbour is unsafe, as the hold-
ing ground of loose shifting sand is not good ; and a vessel, though with a
good scope of cable out, is likely to drive even in moderate weather. When
the wind freshens from the N.E. a heavy sea rolls in, breaking even in 3
fathoms water, and a sailing vessel must immediately proceed to sea, for
should the wind veer to N.W. it might be impracticable. In summer also
it is exposed to sh(jrt, sharp south-westers, which rise suddenly with little or
no warning, but which are not of very common occurrence ; in the event of
one, it is necessary to put to sea without delay.

The recent survey in the Sylvia showed the deepest water over the bar to
be in nearly the same direction as it was in 1845, when Lieutenant Grordon
surveyed it, but 5 ft. shoaler. Since then the entrance has been entirely
altered by a typhoon, which swept over the harbour in September, 1871, but
it is probable that the freshes of the ensuing rainy seasons have re-established
the channel in its old position. The leading mark for entering the har-
bour previous to this change was a white beacon placed near a small fish hut
on piles, near White Fort, just open to the right of the old red brick square
Dutch fort, E. I S., botk situated on the northern side of the river. The
passage over the bar is usually marked with bamboos, but these are unin-
telligible to a stranger.

The entrance heacon on the North bank, W. i N. half a mile from the Eed
Fort, is 40 ft. high, and pyramid shaped, consisting of three poles with a
triangular facing towards the bar ; the whole painted white. The beacon in,
line with the Eed Fort is the leading mark for entering the harbour.

On entering the river pass the white beacon at about three-quarters of a
cable, and run up along the North shore at the same distance. The anchor-
age for large vessels is off the custom-house ; the best berth for men-of-war
is nearer the Eed Fort. It is necessary to moor, and ships should be pre-
pared with a spare anchor in the winter months, as the freshets have been
so strong, after continuous rain, as to cause a vessel to drift out and be
wrecked on the bar. The holding ground is not very good. Of the advan-
tages of this harbour, it may be said that it is quite secure from all storms j
and although there is only a depth of 8 ft. over the bar, yet, the rise being
from 7 to 10 ft., vessels of moderate draught may enter or leave daily
throughout the year.

The North end of Formosa is high and mountainous, except the North and
N.W. points, which are low, and have reefs extending a considerable distance
off. From Tam-sui the coast trends to the N.E., 10 miles to Syau-ki Pointy

• These pilots hare not alwajs proved trust- worthy, shipmasters should therefore be
on their guard and procure a licensed pilot, if possible. The charge is five dollars.

KE-LUNG HAEBOUR. 1045

and then 4 miles East to Foki Point ; a reef fronts it, and in some places
extends nearly half a mile off shore. The shore rises gradually, and is very
flat for several miles inland to the Tam-sui range. Masou Pminsula is 8 miles
S.E. of Foki Point. Its N. W. point is formed by a remarkable hill of sand-
stone, 250 ft. high, perpendicular to the N.W. To the westward of this
peninsula is the deep bay and valley of Masou, in the middle of which is an
islet with three rocks lying S.E. of it. Immediately eastward of Masou
Peninsula is a bay 3 miles across, with numerous reefs running off the
points within it ; and 2 miles farther on the entrance of Ke-lung Harbour.

The coast between Foki and Petou Points, 20 miles apart, forms some-
what of a bay into which the N.E. monsoon rolls a heavy sea ; in this bay,
about 6 miles eastward of Masou Peninsula is Ke-lung Island, a remarkable
black rocky island rising precipitously on all sides to the height of 580 feet.
This excellent landmark guides to Ke-lung Harbour, the entrance to which
bears from it S.W. 2|- miles. Off its N.W. end is a conical rock 100 feet
high, and extending S.W. by S. from the island is a spit of gravel or rock,
a mile in length.

KE-LUNG HAEBOTJR is easy of access and well sheltered in all winds,
except those from the northward, which send in a heavy sea. Ke-lung
Island directs to the entrance which is marked by beacons, and the hidden
dangers within are marked by buoys.

Audacious Hock, on which H.M.S. of that name struck in 1876, is a small
pinnacle, with 21 ft. over it, and 10 fathoms at the distance of 50 yards in
all directions. From the shoalest part, the islet, 100 ft. high, adjacent to
the West side of Ke-lung Island, bears E. § S., distant 17 cables ; and the
second peak West of Image Point (293 ft. high), S. by W. i W., distant 2^
miles. Petou Point, just overlapping the South point of Ke-lung Island,,
bearing S.E. by E. 5 E., leads about 2 cables north-eastward of Audacious
Rock. The summit of the distant range of hills (southward of Ke-lung
town) in line with the Saddle between the first and second peaks West of
Image Point, bearing S. 3 W., leads about 2 cables westward of the rock in
15 fathoms water.

Falm Islayid, three-quarters of a mile long, East and West, is 2 miles
S.S.W. i W. from Ke-lung Island. Close to its N.W. extreme, and almost
connected with it, is Macedonian Mound, 140 ft. high. Bush Island, low and
rocky, about 10 ft. high and covered with shrubs, lies 3 cables West of Palm
Island. Its extreme North end is marked by a beacon, 43 ft. high, painted
hlack.

Image Point, the West point of entrance to the harbour, is a low project-
ing shelf half a mile W.S.W. of Bush Island, and remarkable from the
number of detached pieces of sandstone rock which the action of the sea
has worn into grotesque figures. The point is or was marked by a tchite
beacon and may be rounded at a cable. There are 7 to 16 fathoms in the

1046 THE ISLAND OF FOEMOSA.

entrance, whlcli is 4 cables wide between Imaj^e Point and the reef ofiP Bush
Island.

Inflexille Reef, on which several ships have struck, is a sunken ledge of
rocks. On its outer edge are two knolls of 4 and 6 ft., from the westernmost
of which Image Point bears N.W. by W. 4 cables, and the left extreme of
Bush Island N. by E. This knoll is marked by a red buoy on its western
edge, in 7i fathoms.

Crag Peak, a remarkable sugar-loaf hill, about 150 ft. high, lies on the
western shore of the harbour, half a mile southward of Image Point. From
it projects another shelf of sandstone, on which is the mushroom-shaped
rock to which has been given the name of Ruin Rock. A sunken ledge with
3 to 9 ft. on it extends 1^ cable eastward of this point, the outer edge of
which is marked by a white buoy (coral shoal buoy), in 5J fathoms. The
town of Ke-lung stands at the head of the bay a mile above Euin Eock.
The coal mines are about a mileE.S.E. of the town.

The trade of Ke-lung is extensive, principally with the Eivers Min, Chin-
chu, Amoy, and Tongsang. For the latter plane quantities of coal are
shipped, and for the former rice, ground-nut oil, camphor, and camphor wood.
Good water is easily obtained on the western shore of the harbour, in the
second small bay within Crag Peak. Pigs, poultry, and sweet potatoes may
be purchased. The Ke-lung coal is a small bituminous mineral, good for
domestic purposes and for steamers making short passages, but it is otherwise
unsuitable. (See page 1032.)

It is high water, full and change, in Ke-lung Harbour at 10'' 30™, and the
rise, when uninfluenced by the weather, is about 3 ft.

Directions. — The entrance of Ke-lung may be boldly steered for even in a
N.E. gale with thick weather, if the land about it, especially Ke-lung Island,
can be well made out. Avoiding Audacious Eock, Crag Peak, a conspicuous
landmark within the harbour, may be steered for on any bearing between
S. \ W, and S. by W. f W., and will lead in within the entrance clear of all
danger. After passing Image Point, which it is preferable to hug, steer for
the sandy bay to the S.E., getting the point on a N.W. ^ N. bearing, and
anchor in 6 to 7 fathoms, mud, good holding ground, with the West extreme
Bush Island N. by E., or Crag Peak S.W. ^ W. This anchorage is 1^ cable
South of Inflexible Eeef, and if the buoys are in position the red buoy will
bear North.

If proceeding into Junk Harbour, round Euin Eock at 2 cables, passing
outside the white buoy, and anchor with the rock S.E. by E. | E. A gun
boat may proceed higher up.

A sailing vessel must use much caution in leaving this harbour during
the N.E. monsoon, in consequence of the heavy sea rolling in, and there
being no anchorage outside. With a light wind short tacks should be
made, and the entrance kept open until an offing is gained.

ISLANDS NORTH-EAST OF FOEMOSA. 1047

Coal Harbour, or Petaou Bay, a small inlet of the coast IJ mile south-
eastward of Palm Island at the entrance of Ke-lung, and bearing from Ke-
lung Island S. | E., is so called from its proximity to the coal mines on the
hill sides of the southern shore of Quar-see-kau Bay. It lies open to the
northward, and is surrounded with reefs and rocks, and shoal at the head ;
it might, however, be available to a vessel in distress, if embayed to wind-
ward of it.

It offers anchorage and shelter for one or two vessels only, and should
the mines ever be worked by Europeans, the coal, which is of good quality,
could be conveyed to Harbour Eock at its head by means of a railroad along
the West shore of the bay, at the base of the hills. A short pier from the
North side of the rock would enable a vessel to lie alongside in 3 or 4
fathoms water, and receive or discharge her cargo.

ISLANDS NOETH-EAST OF FORMOSA.

From the northern extremity of Formosa there extends for 170 miles in
an E. by N. direction, a chain of rocks and islands of small size, bold of
approach, and for the most part widely separated, lying on or near the edge
of the bank of soundings extending from the coast of China.

Pinnacle Island, called by the Chinese Tsaou su or the Chair-bearer,
owing to its resemblance to coolies carrying a sedan chair, is in lat. 25° 25^'
N., long. 121° 58i' E., and 19 miles N.E. by N. from the entrance of Ke-
lung Harbour. It is a rugged mass of rock, 170 ft. high, with perpendicular
sides, and around it are three semi-detached pinnacle rocks about half the
height of the island, two of which are visible in almost every direction.
They aU stand upon a low reef, the western point of which extends, pro-
bably 2 cables.

Craig Island, in lat. 2.5" 29' N., long. 122° 8' E., is 10 miles E.N.E. of
Pinnacle Island. Its eastern point is a steep cliff from the summit of the
island, 240 ft. in height, off which lie the two high craggy rocks, surrounded
by a large reef, from which the island has probably received its name.
H.M.S. Serpent anchored off the North side of the island in 9 fathoms, ia
June 1866.

Agincourt Island, 9 miles N. J W. from Craig Island, is in lat. 25° 38' N.
long. 122° 5i' E. It has a round summit, 540 ft, high, stretching out into
high, bold headlands on the North and South, and off the S.W. point is a
reef.

Hoa-pin su, the North face of which is in lat. 25° 47' N., long. 123° 0' E.,
is an island 3 miles in extent, and 1,181 ft. high. The S.W. point, when
seen on a S.E, by E. bearing, appears low and bhelYing. The western part

1048 ISLANDS NORTH-EAST OF FORMOSA.

of the island rises symmetrically to a sharp peak, and is separated by a deep
gap from the eastern peak which is somewhat lower, very rugged, and steep
on its southern side ; the S.E. point is a high cliiff. The island may be said
to slope to the N.W.

The Pinnacle Group, which is connected by a reef and bank of soundings
with Hoa-pin su, allowing a channel of about 1 2 fathoms water between it
and the Channel Rock, presents the appearance of an upheaved and subse-
quently ruptured mass of compact grey columnar basalt, rising suddenly
into needle-shaped pinnacles. Although a safe channel exists between Hoa-
pin su and the Pinnacle Islands, it ought not (on account of the strength
of the tides destroying the steerage), to be attempted by sailing vessels if it
can be avoided.

Ti-a-usu, N.E. northerly, 15 miles from Hoa-pin su, is about 1^ or 2 miles
in extent, and its summit is a round hill about 600 ft. high, with a lower hill
of similar shape on its N.E. side, which both show very prominently when
the island is first made from the eastward.

Raleigh Rock, in lat. 25° 35', long. 124° 35' E., and 50 miles E. | S. from
Ti-a-usu, is a narrow elongated mass of bare rock, rising abruptly from a
reef to the height of 270 ft., and perpendicular on all sides. Reefs stretch
off its West, East, and North sides. In the distance it appears like a junk
under sail.

The Bank of Soundings appears to terminate a little eastward of Raleigh
Rock, for at 12 miles N.E. by E. of it no bottom was obtained with 150
fathoms of line. In the vicinity of the islands, the depths were found very
irregular, varying from 60 to 90 fathoms, over a bottom of grey sand, or
rock, or stones, so that it would not be possible to determine a ship's posi-
in thick weather by means of soundings, beyond the fact of her being on
the bank.

MEIACO SIMA GROUP form the westernmost portion of the long chain
of islands which extend in an easterly and north-easterly direction from For-
mosa to the southern extremity of Kiusiu, Japan.

KITMI ISLAND,* conspicuous by the peculiar sharpness of its single peak,
770 ft. high, and table base, is 60 miles E. by S. of Sau-o Bay, Formosa.
The island is 6 miles long, East and West, and its peak is at the south-
eastern part. The principal town and port is on the North side, but the
entrance from the sea is narrow and shallow. Tolerable anchorage is found
in fine weather, in 17 fathoms, sandy bottom, apparently over coral, at 3
cables from the shore, northward of the town.

Chung-chi and Sandy Islands are the south-western outliers of the western

* Reefs, reported to have been seen lying wtstvrard of Kumi, are described on page 1034,

KU-KIEN-SAN— PAOHUNG SAN. 1049

group of the Meiaco simas. Chung-chi, 33 miles S.E. by E. J E. from Kumi
Peak, is a high uninhabited mass of basaltic rock. Sandy or Hasyokan
Island, 13 miles S.E. by E. frcm Chung.chi, is 3 miles in extent, East and
West, with a few trees and huts on it, and stands on a coral reef, which
extends a mile from its S.W. point. There is no safe passage between the
two islands ; between Chung-chi and Ku-kien san several coral patches have
been observed, and Sandy Island is stated to be connected with Loney Island,
1 6 miles north-eastward, by numerous reefs and shoals.

KU-KIEN-SAN is 16 miles in extent, and rises at its highest part to an
elevation of about 2,000 feet, its shores affording several commodious har-
bours, which, with good charts, are safe of approach. Seymour Bmj is on the
southern coast, 2 miles East of Seymour Point, the S.W. angle of Ku-kien
san. Here is perfect shelter in the N.E. monsoon, and a fine stream enters
the sea in deep water, where a vessel might water, without the intervention
of boats or casks.

At the middle of the western coast is Herbert Island, 700 ft. high, detached
from the extremity of a long peninsula, which separates two narrow inlets.
Port Cockburn, on the South, carries very deep water, 30 decreasing to 20
fathoms up to its head, which is 3 miles from the entrance ; but there are
many coral reefs off its shores. The harbour is almost landlocked, and only
open to N. W. by N. Port Herbert, North of the peninsula, is fringed by broad
reefs throughout its whole extent. It has 3 fathoms in the middle of its
entrance, which opens out into a broad basin within, with a depth of 22 fa-
thoms, from whence a narrow channel, about 2 cables in width between the
reefs, and carrying 14, 7, and 10 fathoms, leads S.E. by S. \\ mile to the
head of the inlet, where is anchorage, clear of a coral reef, in 6 fathoms.
This harbour is also nearly landlocked, and open only to N.W. by N. Port
Gage is a small bay, also on the West side of Ku-kien san, 3 cables across,
open to West and S.W.

Isaac Island, 40 ft. high, is 2 miles northward of Ku-kien san. Koubah
Island is a mile off the East point of Ku-kien san.

PA-CHUNG SAN, 8 miles eastward of Ku-kien san, is about 10 miles in
extent across the body of the island, and the hills on its North side rise to
the height of 1,500 feet, from which range a narrow peninsula stretches 12
miles N.E. by N., terminating in Adams Point, off which is an islet on the
reef. South-westward of Pa-chung is Roberto7i Island, 60 ft. high, 4^ miles
westward of which is Koubah Island, before mentioned ; the two are con-
nected by a coral reef, which is steep-to, and on the edge of which are three
islets. Eoberton is also connected by reefs with Baugh, Ingle-field, and Loney
Islands to the S.W., which also lie off Ku-kien san ; and South Rock, which
is high and marks the edge of the reef, is S.E. of Eoberton, and 3J miles
from Pa-chung.

1. X. 6 s

1050 ISLANDS NOKTH-EAST OF FOEMOSA.

On the North side of Pa-chiing are several g;oocI bays, where anchorage
might be found in the S.W. monsoon, but which are certainly not adapted
for refit.

Port Haddington is a spacious bay on the "West side of Pa-chung-san.
Ofi' Hamilton Point, the North point of entrance, will be noticed a remark-
able little rocky hummock, upon which was left, at the time of the survey,
a very large pile of stones. The bottom for more than half a mile off the
point is rocky and dangerous ; but as all the dangers of this port are visible
from aloft, there is no risk with a proper look-out. This is a well sheltered
port during the N.E. monsoon, but not so safe in the S.W. monsoon ; for
although it is landlocked, there is a long fetch for the sea with a S.W. gale,
and in the latter season typhoons are said to be very violent about this
region.

A convenient watering-place was established by H.M.S. Samarang, by
sinking a cask and suspending the suction hose of Hearle's pump over it, so
as to prevent the sand from being sucked in. Here wood is abundant. The
inhabitants are a poor, contented, and an unarmed race, in appearance
similar to the Loochooans, to whom they are subject, but resembling the
Japanese more in manner, customs, and language.

It is high water, full and change, at e** 45'", and the rise and fall about 7 ft.

Directions. — From the westward, Port Haddington may be sought and
reached more expeditiously by working upon theN.W. side of Ku-kien-san,
rounding Isaac Island and running down off the danger line from Melros
Point (the northern part of the peninsula which forms the North side of the
bay) round the reef, which extends 6 cables off Hamilton Point, and shoot
into 15 fathoms. The chart exhibits several awkward patches, but a vessel
which works decently can thread her way between them, if the sun be bright,
as all the shoals may easily be traced from aloft.

There is a passage from Port Haddington into Broughton Bay, which was
used by H.M. sloops Lily and Contest, in 1852 ; it abounds in coral reefs.

About 15 or 20 miles E. by N. ^ N. of the N.E. extremity of Pa-chung
are two low islets, Mitsuna and Tarara, from -vhich extensive reefs stretch
northward and westward, and the ground is shallow and foul at 10 miles
N.N.E. of them. The vicinity of these shoals ought therefore to be avoided
by night, but by day the dangers are clearly denoted by breakers.

TAI-PIN SAN GROUP, the eastern division of the Meiaco simas, com-
prises the large island of Tai-pin san and four small off-lying islets, and is
distant 50 miles from Pa-chung san in an E. by N. ^ N. direction. Tai-pin
san is 15 miles long, N.W. and S.E., and is surroimded on all sides except
the South by a very extensive chain of coral reefs, upon which lie the four
small islands. Off' the S.W. point is Ashumah or Kurimah; to the westward
is Erahou or Yerabu, 4 miles in extent ; off the North point is Corumah or
Ykima, and 2 miles eastward of the same is Uummoch or Ogame.

PESCADORES ISLANDS. 1051

Safe anchorage during the S.W. monsoon might be found inside the reefs
of Hummock Island, and also safe in the N.E. monsoon ; but the passage
in or out at that season would be attended with risk, and there can be no
inducements for any vessel to visit Tai-pin san ; neither wood, water, nor
any other necessaries could be procured.

YKIMA ISLAND (Doubtful), is placed on the charts as 3 miles in extent
with an islet off its N.E. side, and in lat. 24° 26' N., long. 125° 26', which
position is 20 miles South of the eastern point of Tai-pin san.

CAUTION is requisite in approaching the Meiaco sima group from the
N.E., East, or South, particularly with fresh breezes, and in the absence of
the sun, by the aid of which the coral reefs below water can be detected.
They are here, from their greenish hue, being covered by seaweed, less dis-
tinct than at other places, and therefore, where they are not marked on the
chart, it must not be presumed that the space is free from danger ; for the
lead will not afford timely warning.

Vessels should not venture near these islands after dark until the dangers
have been more closely examined. From the western limit of Chung-chi
Island to the eastern range of the breakers of Tai-pin san, the space is dan-
gerous. Independent of the many reefs which connect the islands, the con-
stant strong winds, with haze and rain during the N.E. monsoon, render the
approach at that season, unless in a clear day, very hazardous.

Of the dangers on the northern side of the group, all that is known has
been said, and no off-lying shoals appear to exist westward of Pa-chungsan.
But it is nut considered prudent that any vessel should run the risk of being
hampered by these islands and shoals, and therefore, w4ien beating up to the
northward, should not come farther eastward than to sight Chung-chi Island.
The currents, as these islands are approached, press more southerly and
easterly than on the coast of Formosa, and stronger breezes are met as a
vessel advances eastward; indeed it blows inceasantly at this western group.

PESCADORES ISLANDS.

The PESCADORES or Panghou Archipelago consist of twenty-one inha-
bited islands, besides several rocks, and extend from lat. 23" 11^' to 23° 47' N.,
and from long. 119° 16' to U9° 40" E. From their basaltic formation the
land is generally flat, and no part of the group is 300 ft. above the level of
the sea. Panghou or Ponghou and Fisher, the two largest islands, lie near
the centre of the archipelago, and between them is an extensive and excel-
lent harbour. The general depth of water on the western side of the archi-
pelago is 30 and 35 fathoms; there are, however, some places with GO fa-

10 -,2 PESCADORES ISLANDS.

thorns. To the eastward of the group the depth is 40 fathoms, and the
current strong.

These islands contained, in 1843, a population of about 8,000, and are
extensively cultivated, potatoes, maize, millet, and ground nuts being pro-
duced in considerable quantities, as well as a few other vegetables, but the
soil is not good ; owing to the violence of the wind there are no trees, but
the islands are well supplied with fruits and vegetables from Formosa. Bul-
locks are numerous, being used to till the ground. Fresh water was abund-
ant in the months of June and July, but it was stated that at some seasons it
was scarce. Dried fiah forms the only article of export, and the imports are
rice, sugar, fruits, and vegetables from Formosa ; tea, &c., from Amoy.

JUNK ISLAND, the most southern of the Pescadores, is 2 miles long,
East and West, and IJ mile wide, and the soundings in its vicinity are 15
and 16 fathoms. The highest part of the island is 260 ft. above the sea,
and from it High Island bears N.W. i N. 8f mHes, Eeef Island N.E. by E.
6 J miles, and East Island E. by N. 13 miles. A reef of rocks extends 6
cables from its S.W. side, and within them is a small artificial harbour for
junks. Its eastern face is fronted by bold cliffs; and its western extreme is
a long shelving point.

Eeef Islands are three in number, one of which. Steeple Island, is a re-
markable pyramid. The other two are rather more than a mile each in cir-
cumference, and are connected at low water by a stony ledge ; reefs extend
half a mile to the southward of them, and South one-third of a mile from the
West end of the eastern island is a pyramidal rock 80 ft. above the sea.
There is also a low flat rock, nearly level with the water's edge, lying S.W.
by S. li mile, and a small peaked rock with a reef northward of it lying S.E.
2 miles from the East end of this island.

East Island is 8 miles eastward of the Reef Islands, and between them
and distant 5 miles from the latter is a smaller island, named Pe-ting, 1^ mile
in circumference, with a reef extending in an easterly direction, not quite a
mile from its North point. East Island is 2J miles in circumference, and a
small islet lies half a mile from its north-western shore.

Nine-feet Reef liesN. by E. | E. 12| miles from the North end of East
Island, and from it Dome Hill on Poughou Island bears W. by N. ^ N.
lOi miles, and Three Island N.N.W. ^ W. 4 miles. The lead gives no
warning.

ROVER GROUP, consisting of two large islands, Pa-chau and Tsiang, and
several rocks, are sufficiently extensive to afford shelter under their lee in
either monsoon. Pa-chau, the western island, is 2^ miles long, North and
South, and a mile broad, and its summit rises like a dome with a large pile
upon it. A reef extends If mile in a westerly direction from the S.W.
point of the island, and its extreme shows at all times of tide. 'Tsiang, the
©abtern island, is only 1| mile long N.E. and S.W., and about 1^ mile broad,

PANGHOU OR PONGHOU ISLAND. 1053

and the channel between it and Pa-chau is barely a cable wide. The East
point of this island is remarkable from an isolated cliff, called Rover Knoh^
100 ft. high, which forms the most striking feature in the group ; and 7
cables eastward of the cliff is a ledge of rocks, part of which are always
above water.

The channel between the Rover group being so narrow and intricate, the
only excuse for a stranger using it would be his vessel being caught at an-
chor to the northward of the group in a breeze from the northward, and
unable to fetch clear either eastward or westward.

High Island, bearing W. by S. | S., 9 J miles from the highest part of
Pa-chau, is dome-shaped, 247 ft. high, and three-quarters of a mile in cir-
cumference. At 1 mile eastward of it is a low flat island, and between the
two are several rocks, one of which has a remarkable gap in it, and rises 60
feet above the sea. A rock nearly level with the water's edge lies S.E, 5 E.
\\ mile from the summit of High Island.

Yih-pan Island, 158 ft. high, 2 miles in circumference and uneven in ap-
pearance, is 4 miles northward of High Island, and S.W. § S. II5 miles from
the lighthouse on the S.W. end of Fisher Island.

Table Island, bearing S.S.E. \ E. nearly 5 miles from the lighthouse on
Fisher Island, is aptly named, the summit being a dead flat 200 ft. above
the sea. The island is not quite 2 miles long E. by N. and W. by S. , and
is seldom 3 cables wide. Tablet Island is about a mile northward of Table
Island, and between them the depth is 12 to 19 fathoms. A shoal of only 9
feet least water extends N.W. ^ W^. \\ mile from the N.W. side of the island.
From its north-western limit Dome Island bears N.E. by N. ^ E.

PANGHOU or Ponghou Island, the largest of the Pescadores, is 9^ miles
in extent, North and South ; it is, however, separated into three portions by
narrow channels, which have only 2 ft. in them at low water, and are further
blocked by stone weirs. The whole of the western face of the island is
fronted by coral reefs. On its south-eastern side, between Hou and Leechin
Points, are two bays with fishing villages, either of which afford anchorage
in the N.E. monsoon. Dome Bay , on the S.W. side of the island, will also
afford good anchorage in 6 fathoms. Makung Harbour is formed at the
S.W. part of Ponghou, and although much confined by coral reefs it has
sufficient depth for vessels of large draught. The town of Makung stands on
the North side of an islet, close to the N.E. of the entrance, and will be
easily recognized by a citadel and a line of embrasures. The large junks
waiting for a favourable wind to take them to Formosa, anchor S.W. of the
town in 7 and 8 fathoms, with Black Rock lying midway between Fisher
Island and Makung, bearing N.E. by N. The harbour runs back 3 miles 10
the eastward from Chimney Point, the South point of entrance, on which is
an old Dutch fort.

Running fur Makung Harbour from the westward, pass about half a mile

1054 PESCADORES ISLANDS.

southward of Litsitah Point, the South extreme of Fisher Island, and then
steer E. ^ N. for the town of Mukung. The only dangers to be avoided in
entering this passage are, the shoal with 9 ft. on it, extending N.W. | W.
ii mile from Tablet Island ; and a reef, just awash at high water, at half a
nAle westward of Dome Island.

FISHER ISLAND, which in a collection of voyages in Dutch, published
in 1726, is called D'Vissers Island, lies westward of Ponghou, and between
them is the excellent and extensive harbour of Ponghou. The island is 5
miles long. North and South, and 3J miles broad. The S.E. point, Siau
Head, is a bold cliff, 170 ft. above the sea. A reef breaks at low water at 7
cables from the western shore of the island, and its outer extreme bears
N. by E. i E. from the lighthouse.

Litsitah Point Lighthouse, on the S.W. extremity of Fisher Island, is a
round iron tower, painted black, and 33 ft. high. The keepers* dwellings
are painted white. The light is a. fixed bright light, elevated 205 ft. above the
level of the sea, and visible 15 miles off. It was established in December,
1875, and superseded an old native light which had been established a
century.

Vessels seeking shelter in a N.E. gale will find smooth water off the
southern shore of Fisher Island between the lighthouse and Siau Head, where
there are two sandy bays. Niu-hunq Bay, between the N.E. end of Fisher
Island and Pehoe Island, will afford shelter in the S.W. monsoon.

PONGHOU HARBOUR.— The eastern coast of Fisher Island trends north-
ward from Siau Head, and forms several small bays which are steep-to to a
cable's length of the beach until 2^ miles North of the head when reefs ex-
tend nearly 3 cables off shore. To avoid these reefs the fall of Siau Head
must not be brought southward of S. by "VV. J W.

The harbour northward of the anchorage is much choked with coral
patches. There is a passage out to the northward between Fisher Island and
Pehoe Island, and it may be used on an emergency by vessels of 15 ft.
draught, but a local knowledge is necessary to render it available.

The archipelago, to the northward of Fisher and Pehoe Islands, does not
afford any inducement for a vessel to enter it.

Tortoise Rock, 9 ft. above high water, and steep-to, lies about 2i miles
from the N.W. point of Fisher Island, and N. by E. \ E. 7J miles from the
lighthouse. There is a shoal patch of If fathom at 6 cables S. f E. from the
ruck, and N.W. £ N. from the N.E. point of Fisher Island.

Sand Island, three-quarters of a mile long, North and South, and a
quarter of a mile broad, bears N.E. by E. \ E. 2f miles from the Tortoise
Hock, and it will be known by a hummock which rises on the low land in the
centre of the island, and also by its yellow appearance ; a rock lies off its
S.W. end, and reefs extend N.W. 3 cables from its N.W. point.

Bird Island bears E.N.E. from Sand Island, and a long sandy point, off

E0T7ND AND THREE ISLANDS. 1055

■which is a small sand island with a hou!=e upon it, forms its southern extreme.
Shoal water extends 3 miles northward from the North point of Bird Island,
and near its centre is North Island, which has a house upon it to shelter the
fishermen, and upon a reef half-way between them is another house. The
northern edge of the shoal water uncovers at low tide. Shelter during a
north-easterly wind might be found on the "West side of Bird Island ; and
from southerly winds, to the northward of the reefs extending from the
North point of the island. iV. W. Outlier is a shoal patch of 5 fathoms,
lying N. by W. f W. from Sand Island, and West 3J miles from North
Island. Sable Island, bearing S.E. by S. 5 miles from the N.E. end of Bird
Island, is a small islet with a sand patch on its South cliff, and surrounded
with rocks.

Organ Island is 3 miles S. by E. ^ E. from Sable Island. N.K f N. 1 mile
from it is a reef, from which Sable Island bears N."W. by N. Hanged Island
is nearly a mile S.E. by E. from Organ Island.

Eound and Three Islands. — Leechin Point, the East extreme of Ponghou,
is low and shelving, and 1^ mile eastward of it is Pound Island, bearing
S. by E. I E. 3^ miles from Ragged Island ; and S. -J E. li mile from Round
Island is Three Island. N.W. by W. J "W. from Three Island, and S.W.
from Round Island, is a reef which covers at half tide.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Makung Harbour, at 10'' 30" ;
springs rise 9^^ ft., neaps 7 ft. The tidal streams among the Pescadores run
■with great strength, but they are much affected by the prevailing winds.
Vessels navigating in this neighbourhood may safely allow that the effect
of the current and tidal stream together will set them, according to the pre-
vailing monsoon, 17 miles in one tide. Tide races are common, and overtop
with great violence.

CHAPTEK XXIII.

RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

The RIVER MIN, 8 J miles N.W. i W. from the anchorage at the White
Dogs, is formed between sandbanks, which extend 7 miles from the land,
that partly dry at low water. The range of banks terminates to the eastward
at Outer Min Reef, a detached rocky patch, two peaked heads of which show
at the last quarter ebb. Woufou Island, 6 miles long East and West, and
4 miles broad, is situated within the entrance, and near its N.E. point ia
the little island of Hokeang, with its two contiguous islets called the
Brothers. Vessels of 12 ft. draught can go up to Fuchow.

Pilots.— A staff of European pilots conducts the navigation of foreign
vessels entering or leaving the River Min, but notwithstanding the skill of
many of these individuals, wrecks are of not unfrequent occurrence among
the shifting sandbanks and intricate channels of the river. Pilot-boats are
always cruizing in the vicinity of the White Dogs and Matsou, or between
Tongsha and the entrance ; they are of Chinese rig, and carry a flag, white
and red horizontal.

Caution. — To those well acquainted with the port, it is easy of access with
proper care and attention, but in face of the frequent changes of the en-
trance, it would be imprudent in others to risk taking their ships in without
a pilot. There are unlicensed Chinese pilots at the White Dogs, but these
are not to be trusted, notwithstandiug their numerous testimonials.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the White Dog Islands, at
9*" 0", springs rise 18 ft. ; at Temple Point, River Min, at 10'' 45", springs
rise 19 ft., neaps 14^ ft. ; and at Losing Island it is high water at noon. It
is high water at the White Dogs about 2 hours before the tide has done flow-
ing at the Rees Rock.

Considerable alteration has taken place in the entrance to the River Min,
previous to 1868, when the entrance was again surveyed by Commander E.
Brooker, of H.M. survej-ing vessel Sylvia. The banks between North

THE EIYER MIN. 1057

Breakers and Eees Eock had shoaled to 9 ft., and thus closed the principal
or South channel, whilst the North channel, heretofore irregular and uncer-
tain, opened out with a clear, direct, and accessible passage, having 15 ft. ou
its outer bar at low water springs.

With a 16-ft. rise of tide the best time for entering the Min is from half-
flood to half-ebb. The North sands of the entrance begin to cover at a quarter
flood. At low water springs they dry about 3 ft. ; at neaps they do not show.
In fine weather the North and South breakers appear from half-ebb to half-
flood, and the Outer Knoll, which has only 10 ft. on it, seldom until after the
last quarter ; but in bad weather a line of breakers extends from the Outer
Knoll across the North bank, and a continuous line from the South breakers
to Black Head.

Outer Min Reef is nearly half a mile in extent, and only shows at low-
water. In clear weather it may be passed outside at a mile by keeping the
summit of Tong-sha S.E. by S. till Eees Eock is open southward of Wou-fou
Island.

Rees Rock is a small black rock which never entirely covers. It is marked
by a beacon built of granite, which is " used as a range for the Middle
Channel and as a general landmark."

South Channel is now disused by large ships. The leading mark in was
Eees Eock in line with the North extreme of Hokiang, N.W. by W. \ W.

BUOYS of North Channel. — Outer or No. 1 Buoy is a fairway buoy in 8
fathoms, off the northern entrance of North channel, and is about 3 miles
N.W. ^ W. from the outer part of Outer Min Eeef. It is a large buoy, 10
feet in diameter, painted in red and hlach horizontal stripes, and surmounted
by a black cage, 18 ft. above the water. From the buoy, Sharp Peak bears
W. \ N. nearly, and Eees Eock S.W. | W.

Middle or No. 2 Buoy is a fairway buoy in 4 fathoms, and about 2\ miles
S.W. by W. I W. from Outer Buoy, to which it is in all respects similar,
except that its cage is in the form of a truncated cone. From it. Sharp
Peak bears W. by N. I N., and Eees Eock S.W. \ S.

Inner or No. 3 Buoy is also a fairway buoy in 7^ fathoms, and lying about
2i miles W. \ S. from Middle Buoy, with Sharp Peak bearing N.W. \ W.,
and Eound Island S.W. § W. It is precisely the same as Outer Buoy.

The small Eound Island iu line with the first gap left of the Serrated
Peak, W.S.W., leads over the Outer Bar and up the North Channel, uutil
Kushan Peak is in the middle of the saddle of Square Peak, bearing
W. I S. With these latter marks, run in until the highest part (white
patch) of West Brother is on with the right fall of East Brother N.W. by
W. J W., which leads over the Inner Bar, in 10 ft. at low water. This bar
is very narrow, and the marks must be carefully attended to. The Inner
Bar is to the southward of Sharp Peak Island, the peak of which, 616 feet

I. A tj T

1058 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

high, is a prominent landmark. On the south-western extremity of the shelf
off Sharp Peak Island is a sunken rock, having 8 ft. on it at low water springs,
and on which the British ship Erne struck in August, 1872. A red nun buoy,
6 ft. in diameter, is moored in 14 ft., low water springs, on the southern ex-
tremity of the rock, with Sharp Peak Point bearing E. by S. ; S., and Sharp
Peak N. by E., easterly.

South Coast Passage. — South of Woufou there is a passage, over the flats
at the entrance, and along the mainland, by which the Min is entered, about
6 miles below Pagoda Island, and 10 miles above Sharp Peak. Large junks
use it, and the English pilots, occasionally, to save time, as the distance is
about 5 miles shorter than by the main channel. The deepest water is found
with square Peak on Wou-fou Island bearing from N.W. by W. ^ W. to
N.W. by W. I W., till the highest peak left of Serrated Peak is in line with
the outer rock off Sand Peak Point, W. f S. Keep on this leading mark
until close in, passing the outer rock at a cable, from which steer well open
of Meewah Town Point.

The River. — On the North side of the first reach of the river, off the point
under Woga Fort, which is a circular building on the summit of the southern
hills of Woga, is the Zephyr Rock, with only 5 ft. on it, at three-quarters of
a cable from the shore : there are 5 fathoms inside it.

Off Temple Point are two patches of 2 fathoms ; also, in mid -channel, 3
cables off the point, is the Temple or Six-feet sunken rock, marked by a red
luoy on the southern extremity of the rock, to the southward of which vessels
should pass. When on this rock, Woga Point is in line with Sharp Peak.

On the South bank, on the mud spit which extends westward from West
Brother and abreast the Six-feet Eock, is a patch of rocks which cover at a
quarter flood.

The best position for anchorage is said to be with East Brother S. i E.,
and Sharp Peak Point E.S.E. In the N.E. monsoon, the high land of
Woga in line with or a little open of Temple Point is a good line to anchor
on ; in the S.W. monsoon Woga Creek is the best anchorage.

Kinpai Pass is dangerous to strangers, particularly at or near spring
tides, for then the violence of the current produces eddies among the rocks,
that occasionally cross the channel, and renders the vessel totally unmanage-
able, even in a fresh breeze ; it therefore should never be taken without a
pilot or personal knowledge, and then at slack tide. On the flood a danger-
ous eddy extends from Kinpai Point above it, in the direction of the Ferry ;
and for this reason the passage North of the Middle Ground is considered
the best. The Wolverine Rock, with 13 ft. over it, lies S.W. by W. i W.
from the North extreme of Kinpai Point, and 1^ cable from the shore. The
Vixen Spit, at the eastern end of the Middle Ground, lies S.W. 3 cables from
the point, and the distance, from 1^ fathom on its South edge to the southern
shore, is about a cable.

THE RIVER MIN. 1059

Enter the pass South of Pass Island and the other islet S.W. of it, and
•when past White Fort, close the northern shore, which is steep-to, until
Serrated Peak is in line with the Ferry house on Woufou, S. i W., which is
the leading mark across between the Middle Ground and Quantao Shoal.
This is also a good line for vessels to anchor on when coming down the river,
and waiting for an opportunity of dropping through the Pass.

The danger of this passage is in passing the northern shoulder of the Mid-
dle Ground, which forms a sharp angle with only 1 foot on it at low water
springs, and 4 fathoms close-to ; from this point to the shore the distance is
only IJ cable. After clearing this spot, in passing either up or down, the
tide will tend rather to set the vessel from the bank into the stream. The
highest part of Pass Islet in line with White Fort bluff outer extreme is a
near clearing mark for the northern shoulder of the Middle Ground. It is
recommended to shut Pass Islet in altogether until past that point, opening
it again immediately afterwards. Vessels drawing 8 ft. (and sometimes 12
feet) can pass over the Middle Ground at half tide.

At Slack water, Kinpai Point and the small islet off it (not marked on the
chart) may be rounded closely and the South shore kept on board for half a
mile, when a vessel may edge across the stream W. ^ S towards the other
shore, and steer for Wedge Island, thus clearing the shoal that extends 3
cables off the Ferry house on the Kinpai shore.

Tongue Shoal, which is steep-to, skirts the Wou-fou shore, extending
more than half across the river. Its elbow, with only 7 ft. water, which is
the most necessary part to avoid, is half a mile N.N.E. of Half-tide Rock,
and may be cleared by keeping the Ferry house midway between Kinpai
Bluff and the tower, until the highest point of Kowlui Head comes in line
with Half-tide Rock.

Half- tide Beacon. — Half-tide Rock, which is near the upper end of the
Tongue Shoal, is marked by a granite Beacon like a monument. From this
to Tintao, 2 miles higher up, the bottom is very irregular.

Mingan Pass. — Proceeding upwards, the river narrows at the Mingan
Pass, where the land rises on either side to 1,500 or 2,000 ft. About three-
quarters of a mile above Mingan, and on the same side of the river, is
Couding Island, off the East point of which H.M.S. Scout grounded on a
rock at the end of a ledge projecting 25 yards faom the islet, with 7 ft. near
its extreme.

Buoys. — At the upper or South end of the gorge, where it opens out, and
on the East side of the river, are Spiteful and Flat Islets, which must be left
on the port hand. The Spiteful Rock, showing at low water, is part of a
rocky ledge projecting about 30 yards from the S.W. point of the island, and
is marked by a Hack nun buoy. There is also a red nun buoy on the opposite
side, at the extremity of the ppit extending north-eastward from Losing

1060 EIVEK MIN TO SHANGHAI.

island, from which Spiteful Island bears N.E., and Flat Island S.E. J E. ; a
course between the two buoys leads clear of all danger.

To pass between Spiteful Eock and Losing Spit, and avoid the latter, do
not shut in Younoi Head with Flat Island until Black Cliff Head, just passed
(marked with a white spot) comes in line with the northern edge of Spiteful
Island.

Pagoda, Rock, Beacon, and Light lie off the South point of Losing
Island. The rock dried formerly at low-water springs. The beacon is an
iron pile, 28 ft. high, surmounted by a cage, and a red light, 14 feet above
high water, is exhibited from it from sunset to sunrise.

FTJCHATJ FIT (or Foochow), 34 miles within the entrance of the River
Min, was opened to foreign commerce by the Treaty of Nanking in 1842.
The city is built on a plain, and lies about 3 miles from the river side, to
which it is connected by a line of suburbs. The foreign hongs and British
and other foreign consulates are principally at Nantai, on the opposite or
South bank of the river, which is connected with Fuchau by a massive
stone bridge. So also are the church, hospital, cemeteries, &c.

The anchorage for foreign vessels is at Losing Island, generally called Pa-
goda Island, 10 miles from the city of Fu-chau. Foreign vessels, with the
exception of small schooners or steamers of very light draught, are obliged
to anchor here, farther approach to the city being prevented by difficulties of
navigation and lack of sufficient depth of water, the natural shallowness
having been largely increased of late years through shoaling caused by the
barrier constructed in 1841, with the object of preventing access to the city
by the British ships of war. The channel of the river is very tortuous, and
is said to be constantly changed by heavy freshets.

The dock here is owned and managed by Europeans. Its length is 300
feet, breadth 95 feet, and depth 22 feet. It has an average depth of water
at springs of 17 ft., and neaps of 14 ft. Steam power is used for pumping
dry. An imperial dockyard and arsenal is also established.

Supplies. — Coal is to be obtained, both British and Kelung, from floating
hulks and from coal stores on shore. There are some general stores in the
place, and boarding houses kept by Europeans. Beef and poultry are the
staples of animal food. Foochow bacon and hams are much prized, and
largely shipped to all parts of China. Game and wild-fowl are to be had in
their season, and occasionally venison. Fish abounds in great variety, and
oysters are very plentiful in the cool months, but are dangerous if eaten raw.
Fruit and vegetables are abundant, and excellent potatoes are largely grown
for the supply of foreigners.

The principal foreign imports are cotton and woollen manufactures,
metals, and opium ; and the native imports bean cake, beans and peas, tea,
mats, oil, sugar, &c. The exports are tea, paper, oranges, woods, &c., but
tea is the only staple of importance.

MATSOU ISLAND. 1061

On leaving the river, take care that the set of the tide across the channel
between Sharp-peak Point and Eees Eock does not force the vessel on the
shoals on the North side of the channel. Fair anchorage in 6 fathoms, to
stop during a tide, will be found with Eees Eock bearing S.S.E.

The junks generally use the Woga Channel between "Woga and Sharp-
peak Islands, but to the northward of the latter island there are several
sandbanks which show at low tide, with not more than 6 to 9 ft. water be-
tween the banks. Small steamers may proceed to sea by this channel with
considerable advantage in the N.E. monsoon, as they are enabled, with fore
and aft sail, to fetch up between Matsou and Chang-chi, and if bound to
Formosa a very weatherly departure is ensured. A pilot, however, should
be taken and due caution exercised, because the banks are liable to change,
and personal knowledge is recjuisite for the safe navigation of the channel.

MATSOU ISLAND lies N.E. of the entrance of the Min, and North 10
miles from the western White Dog ; and between the two and N. by E. \ E.
6^ miles from the latter is a precipitous black rock, the Sea Bog, 60 ft. high,,
and surrounded by rocks.

Hehe Reef. — S.W. by S. 1 mile from the Sea Dog is a rock which shows
when there is a heavy swell on and at low-water springs. When on it the
West end of Matsou bears N.N.W. ^^ W., and Breakwater Eock at Tong-
eha Island S. by W. f W. The East end of Eeef Island foflF the East point
of Matsou) in line with Changchi Peak N. by E. \ E. leads to the westward.

Between the Sea Dog and the East end of Matsou are two other rocks
above water, the Sea Cat and Flat Rock.

Pilot Rock was examined by H.M.S. F'assau in 1878. It breaks at low
water, and lies 3 miles East of Sea Cat Island, with Changchi Island peak
bearing N. by W. J W. and Sea Dog Island S.W. by W. f W.

Flat Eock should not be approached on its southern side, as two dangerous
pinnacle rocks lie 6 and 9 ft. below the surface of the water at nearly half
a mile to the southward. These pinnacles are named the Norman Court
Rocks, and between them and Flat Eock is a 2^-fathom patch. A rocky
ledge, with 6 fathoms over it, extends S.E. by S. 1^ cable from Norman
Court Eocks.

Ayma Rock, on which the American barque Bevjamin Ayma struck in Jan.
1878, lies 5 miles westward of the West side of Matsou Island. It is a small
3-ft. patch, steep-to, with 9 and 10 fathoms close around. The South ex-
treme of Changchi Island, in line with the North extreme of Matsou leads
southward of it, and Crab Island bearing North leads eastward of it.

Anchorage will be found on the western side of Matsou during the N.E.
monsoon, and good shelter in the deep bay on its northern face in the S.W.
monsoon.

CHANGCHI ISLAND, at If mile N.E. of Matsou, has on it two remark-
able sharp peaks, the highest being 1,030 ft. above the sea. Off the northern

1062 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

face of the island are several islets, the largest of which, Gordon Islet,
bears North 2i miles, but there is no safe passage between them. N.E. 1^
mile from the North point of Gordon is a small black rock, with a reef lying
westward of it.

At half a mile S.S.E. f E. from the islet off the South point of Changchi
are two rocks always above water ; and West 1| mile from the South point
is the Pastel Rock. The Frio Rocks, about 50 ft. in height, lie N.E. by E. ^
E. 2 miles from the N.E. point of Changchi.

The bay on the South side of Changchi affords good shelter in the N.E.
monsoon, but a heavy swell rolls in at times. Vessels entering from the
northward can round its eastern point close-to, and anchor within the point,
in 6 fathoms. Either this or the anchorage on the western side of Matsou,
which is preferable, should be used by sailing vessels bound to the River
Min during the N.E. monsoon, as they may always get to the bar from hence
the precise moment they require it, whilst from the White Dogs a vessel will
barely fetch.

Alligator Island, or Tungsha, in lat. 26= 9' N., long. 120° 26' E., is a bar-
ren rock, about 40 ft. above the sea, bearing East 22^ miles from Matsou
Island, and N.E. by E. J E. 26 miles from the South end of the White
Dogs.

Larne Rock, lying N.W. by W. 12^ miles from Alligator Island, is
low and fiat, with a reef lying 2 cables North of it. Larne Met, bearing N.
by E. 5^ miles from Larne Rock, has ledges extending from its North and
South ends. It is about 200 ft. above the sea, with large boulders sticking
up here and there ; near its summit are three houses.

Black Rock, 40 ft high, is 7 miles W.N.W. of Larne Islet, and 6 miles
E. \ N. of Ragged Point on the mainland. A reef shows at low water
E.N.E. 5^ miles from the Black Rock, and from it Larne bears S. by E. ^ E.
5 miles, the North end of Tung-ying Island E. by S., and Cony Islet
N.W. t N.

Tung-ying, the easternmost island on this part of the coast, bears E. ^ N.
13 miles from Larne Islet, and its peak rises 855 ft. above the sea. Its ap-
pearance is level and flat, with steep cliff shores, and a large village stands
on its western side ; off its South extreme is a ledge of rocks. It is pro-
posed to establish a lighthouse on its summit.

There is good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon in 10 fathoms, at half a mile
southward of the small island lying off the N.W. point of Tung-ying. This
island appears as part of Tung-ying, except on a N.E. by N. or S.W. by S.
bearing.

Cony is a remarkable conical island, lying W.N.W , 19 miles from Tung-
ying. A reef extends 3 cables off its N.E. shore, otherwise the channel,
nearly 1^ mile wide, between it and the two islands North of it, is safe. A
rock awash at low water, lies Eaat 1^ mile trom the cuno, and another S.E.

SPIDER ISLAND— WANKI BAY. 1063

i E. If mile ; from the latter, S.W. of which there is uneven ground, the
South end of Spider Island bears W. f N.

Spider Island is 3^ miles westward of Cony, and its highest part is 620
feet above the sea. There is a large village in a bay on its South side, a
reef off its S.W. point, and four small islets off its N.E. face. Between it
and the main, which is 5^ miles distant, there are three other and larger
islets ; between the first and Spider Island is a half-tide rock ; the centre
one, named Isthmus Island, has a sandy isthmus, and a mud bank extends
westerly from it, but the channel between it and the fijst islet is clear. The
passage between Isthmus and Inside Islet, IJ mile to the westward, is ob-
structed by a reef, some rocks of which uncover at half-tide, and which ex-
tends 6 cables E.N.E. from Inside. The channel between the latter islet
and Cox Point has 6 to 4 fathoms, and is a mile wide. "West of Spider and
southward of Isthmus are the two groups of Larva Rocks, with a channel
between them ; two rocks on each are above water. The channel between
Isthmus and Larva is contracted to a mile by reefs extending northward
from both the latter groups.

There is good shelter from N.E. winds on the West side of Spider Island.

Ting-hae Bay, formed on the West side of a peninsula of the mainland,
13 miles westward of Changchi, affords safe anchorage in 2^ to 3 fathoms in
the N.E. monsoon.

Fronting this bay to the southward and S.E. are many islands and rocks.
The outermost (four islets above water, named Square Hocks) lie 3 miles to
the southward, with reefs extending northerly from them. To the N.E. of
them is Crab Islet, surrounded by reefs, which extend off its N.W. part at
least half a mile. In the channel between Crab Islet and Ting-hae Point
are two islets.

Wanki Bay, 6 miles E.N.E. of Ting-hae, is frequented by junks, but
although it affords them good shelter it cannot be recommended for larger
vessels. There is a rock, which shows at low water, lying near the centre
of the bay at 7 cables off shore, with Pe-kyau Point E. ^ N., and the nearest
Claret Rock S.E. by S.

Claret Hocks are 1^ mile southward of the East point of Wanki Bay.
Three of them are from 20 to 30 ft. above the sea, but they are all sur-
rounded by sunken rocks, the southernmost of which lies S.W. ^ S. half a
mile from the South Claret. A stranger should pass South of the Claret
Rocks, and haul up when the village in Wanki Bay bears North.

Ragged Point is the N.E. extreme of a narrow peninsula, in some places
only half a mile across, which runs 5^ miles E.N.E. of Wanki Bay. A
quarter of a mile eastward of the point is Diplo Islet, with a reef extending
three-quarters of a cable eastward of it. Steamers frequently anchor under
the smuU island westward of Ragged Point.

1064 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Sam-sah Inlet.* — The entrance to this inlet, at 10 miles westward of
Spider Island, is If mile wide, with deep water and strong tides. There is
a rock in mid-channel W. :^ S. 6 cables from Castle Point, from which the
centre peak of Cone Island bears N. I W. and Steep Rock N. by E. f E. ;
to pass eastward of it, keep the West end of Cone Island in line with the
highest peak of Crag Island.

On the eastern side, close to the entrance, is a small bay with a fort in it,
and here the junks remain for a tide, but the water is very deep, and shoals
too suddenly for vessels that cannot take the ground.

At 4 miles southward of the entrance of Sam-sah Inlet is the opening to
another inlet, 10 miles deep ; there are 30 fathoms water at the entrance,
but circumstances did not admit of its being examined.

Off the entrance to these inlets, about 4 miles north-westward of Ragged
Point, and 7 miles south-westward of Spider Island are three islets, named
Hag Islands, and a mile northward of the easternmost is the Bittern Rocky
which covers at high water. The Plover anchored westward of the western-
most islet and found tolerable shelter. Off the Rag Islands the tides run
with great strength, and a long swell rolls home into Sam-sah Bay withN.E.
winds.

Double Peak Island is 3J miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and near its
northern end are two remarkable peaks, the highest of which rises 1,193 ft.
above the sea. It lies 3 miles N.E. of Spider Island, the only danger in the
channel between being the rocks lying off the North end of the latter island.

There are two cone-shaped islets between Double Peak and Cony Island,
with channels between too narrow for sailing vessels, but there is a geod
passage between the southernmost of these islets and the reefs extending
north-eastward of Cony Island. A rock above water lies a cable N. by W.
from the "West point of Double Peak Island. At IJ mile westward of the
North end of Double Peak is Flap Island, a low flat islet, with a sunken rock
off its southern point. There is no passage fit for vessels between this islet
and the mainland.

There is good anchorage in the N.E. monsoon on the S.W. side of Double
Peak Island, to the S.E. of a small islet, with a rock above water on each
side of it, lying three-quarters of a mile westward of the West point of the
island ; the two cone-shaped islets northward of Cony Island sheltering from
the eastern swell. There is also good shelter abreast the first sandy bay
within the point westward of Flap Island. Here were found six piratical
junks plundering part of a convoy they had captured.

* Sam-sah Inlet is not known by that name to the natives or European coasters. The
true Sam-sah lies farther North, being a small cove at the N.E. angle of Fuh-ning Bay, at
2 miles N.W. of the North point of Fons^ho Island. There is anchorage, in the N.E. mon-
soon, in the cove half a mile eastward of it, in 3 to 5 fathoms, but it would be scarcely safe
to proceed inio it without the services of a pilot.

PIH-SEANG AND TAE ISLANDS. 1065

From Flap Island the coast trends northward for 10 miles to Fielon Island,
and oflF it is Bittern Island and several rugged rocks, which vessels of large
draught should give a berth to, and not close the shore under the depth of
6 fathoms. Between Bittern Island and the main there is good anchorage
in 85 fathoms for small vessels in either monsoon. On the N.W. side of the
island is a sandy cove, where fresh water will be found. From Fielon Island
the coast falls back to the westward, forming a deep but shallow bay, on the
shore of which is the city of Fuh-ning. In the northern part of the entrance
is a group of islets extending 2 miles from the coast.

Pih-seang Islands lie E. by N. %\ miles from the North point of Double
Peak Island. The northern islet, named Town Island, is the largest, and the
little cove at its S.W. angle will afford shelter to one or two small vessels.
Between the northern and southern islets of the group there is a channel free
from rocks, but the intervening space is thickly studded with fishing stakes.
A reef extends half a mile in a north-easterly direction from the easternmost
of the Pih-seang Islands, which lies S.E. 2 niles from Town Island. The
sea breaks on the reef.

Fuh-yan Island, 1,700 ft. above the sea, lies North 12 miles from the
Pih-seang group, and between it and the coast is a good roadstead, named
Lishan Bay, where good water is plentiful and easily obtained. It is high
water, full and change, at 10'' 15" ; springs rise 16 ft.

Dangerous Rock, in lat. 26° 53' N., long. 120° 34' IS" E., has its summit
8 ft. above high water, or 24 ft. above low water springs. It is 9 miles
E.S.E. of Fuh-yan, and 14 miles N.E. of Town Island, Pih-seang group.

Tae Islands lie E. by N. 16 miles from the eastern point of Fuh-yan. The
eastern one, 618 ft. above the sea, is the largest, and remarkable for its
table top. Shelter in the N.E. monsoon can be had under this island as
close as a vessel can safely go (say half a cable's length), but it is bad,
S.S.W. J W. 3 miles from the easternmost Tae Island are two rocky islets
named Strawstach, about 100 ft. high; they almost join. Close to the N.E.
point of the northern Tae Island is a remarkable rock, the Mushroom, 260 ft.
high. A roch has been reported by the master of the steamer Waratah as
lying about 4 miles westward of the Strawstack, and visible at low-water
springs.

Between the Tae group and Fuh-yan are the Incog Islands, too small to
afford shelter; they are low and flat, with steep cliffs. At 3 miles N.W. of
these islands is Solitary Bock, with a reef extending 2 cables in an easterly
direction from it ; the soundings between this and the main, from which it is
distant 3J miles, vary from 7 to 5-^- fathoms. A slight examination was
made in 1866, of the Incog Islands and the channel between these and Soli-
tary, by Commander Charles Bullock, E.N., H.M.S. Serpc7it. The channel
was found clear, and the islands appeared to be steep-to all round the group.
I. A. 6 IT

1066 EIVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Vessels passing inside the Tae Islands should keep well to the westward,
as the ground in their vicinity has not been well explored. Ttoo reefs,
which show at low water, have been found ; from one, with the rocks on it
8 ft. above high water, the Mushroom Eock bears E.S.E., and the West
end of the eastern Incog Island S.W. by W. i W., on which bearing it is
in line with the East end of Fuh-yan ; and from the other, the table top
island of the Tae group bears E. by S. ^ S. and the West rock of the group
N.E. by E. 11 mile.

Seven Stars are a group of rocks and islets, 2^ miles in extent, which
may be passed on the outside safely at a mile. The southern islet, about
200 ft. high, which is the largest, and split into two, is 7 miles N.E. by E.
\ E. from the eastern Tae Island, and S.S.E. from Cleft Eock. A rugged
islet, 70 ft. high, lies a mile N.E. by E. of it ; and a mile farther are three
low flat rocks, the easternmost of which covers, and bears SE. |- E. 3 miles
from Cleft Rode ; the latter, 50 ft. high, and having the appearance its name
implies, is 8 miles N.E. by N. from the eastern Tae Island.

Pih-quan Harbour lies N.W. 14 miles from the Tae group. Its entrance
is between Ping-fong and Chin-quan Islands and the main. To the north-
ward there is a high and very remarkable, sharp, conical hill, Pih-quan Peak,
in lat. 27° 18' 48" N., long. 120° 28' 42" E., having on its summit the appear-
ance of a cairn. The harbour is 1^ mile wide, carries a depth of 3 fathoms,
and affords good shelter in the N.E. monsoon to vessels under 15 ft. draught.
Care is required, however, in entering, as a sunken rock, reported in 1877,
lies in mid-channel, from which the islet at the South end of Chin-quan
Island tears W. by N., and Ping-fong Eock (West side of Ping-fong Island)
N. by E. H.M.S. Growler, in October, 1874, obtained shelter with the
West extreme of Ping-fong Island bearing S.E. |- S., and the S.E. extreme
of Chin-quan Island bearing S.W. \ W., in 3 fathoms at low water, muddy
bottom, and good holding ground. The tidal streams are very strong.

Ping-fong has three chimneys on its summit ; off its S.E. point is a low
rock, which is never covered, and between this rock and Ping-fong is a
sunken rock. Vessels bound from the northward may round this low rock
at a cable's length, and then haul up for the South point of Ping-fong,
giving it and also the S.W. point a berth of 2 cables. The Pih Pass, be-
tween the North end of Ping-fong and the main, is fit only for such junks
as use pculls. Fresh water can be procured in the sandy bay at tiie foot
of the three chimneys on Ping-fong.

NAMftUAN BAY, lying westward of Chinquan Island, is shallow, but
anchorage will be found on the western side of Chinquan Island. Namquan
town is on the North shore of Nam-quan Bay. Immediately westward of
Nam-quan Bay is the entrance to Nam-quan Harbour, an inlet which runs
about 15 miles in a general N.W. direction, when it appears to expand into
a wide basin called Gordon Bay.

NAMKI AND PIH-KI-SHAN ISLANDS. 1067

Within the North point of entrance is a town, 2 cables off which is a stm-
ken rock. Having arrived within the point anchor in 14 fathoms, as the
mud banks rise almost vertically. On the South side of entrance is a small
fort with a few houses. The narrowest part of the channel is 6 cables wide,
and the strong tides and baffling winds make it necessary to have a boat
ready to tow the vessel's head round.

H.M.S. Nimrod, when proceeding up Nam-quan Harbour, January, 1857,
struck on a rock with only 9 ft. water on it, lying about 1 1 miles from the
entrance, and. If cable eastward of a small islet on the western shore.

The Coast from Nam-quan Harbour trends N.E. by N. 21 miles to Ping-
yang Point, and at the distance of 12 miles is Tanue Bay, which is too shal-
low to afford shelter to any vessel drawing over 10 ft. water. A low rock,
named Gap Met, lies 1 J mile southward of Tanue Point ; and N.E. f E. 4|-
miles from it is Farmer Rock, which shows at low water, and lies 3^ miles off
shore, with Ping-yang Point bearing N.N.W., and Tanue Point S.W. by
W. i W. 3^ miles.

From Ping-yang Point the coast takes a north-westerly direction, and is
fronted by mud banks taking a N.N.E. direction, which dry 3 miles from
the land at low water, and on which are several small islets and rocks 5 or
6 miles from the shore. At the distance of 11 miles from the point is the
embouchure of the Shwin-gan River, by which the commerce of Wan-chu fu
is maintained.

The bar at the entrance of the Shwin-gan has only 9 ft. on it at low water,
and off it are the four Tsang Islets, the southern of which is the largest.

NAMKI ISLANDS lie N.E. by N. 30 miles from the Tae group, and on
the south-eastern side of the largest, 740 ft. above the sea, there is a good
harbour, called Port Namki. Vessels should not pass among the islets
forming the S.W. part of this group, as there are many reefs which cover
at high water. The westernmost islet, Turret, makes like a cone, and has
reefs to the North and West of it. The southern islet. Castellated Rock,
lies S.S.W. 5 miles from the rest of the group. In the N.E. monsoon, and
with S.E. winds, a swell rolls into Port Namki. There is a bay on the
North side Df the West point of Namki which the junks frequent, and which
is a good smooth water anchorage. Good water can be obtained in Port
Namki.

PIH-KI-SHAN ISLANDS.— N.N.E. miles from Namki is another group,
the largest island of which is named Pih-ki-shan. The four islets close to
its S.W. side protect the anchorage on its South side from the easterly swell.
Vessels should not, however, choose this anchorage, unless from necessity.
Presh water may be obtained.

At 11 miles W. ^ N. from Pih-ki-shan, with five small islets intervening,
is another group of one island and four islets. The island, called Tung-pwan

1068 EIYER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

or Brass Basin, has anchorage off its S.W. face in 8 fathoms in the N.E.
monsoon, but the shelter is not so good as that on the South side of the
Tae-pih Islands, lying 3 miles to the N.W. of it, under which the water
will be smooth in 4 fathoms.'^

In working up to the northward of the Tae-pih and Tung-pwan groups,
shoal water will be found to extend 8 miles from the foot of the hills on the
main ; at which distance is the 2 fathoms' line of soundings. On the
eastern edge of this line, af 6| miles northward of Tae-pih, is the Pang-
peto Eeef, visible at low water ; from it the western of the Tae-pih Is-
lands bears S.S.W. ^ W., and the southern of the Tseigh Islands E. by S.
i S.

TONG WHANG GROUP.— The Tseigh Islands, three in number, 8 miles
N.N.W. of Pih-ki-shan, lie on the South of a large and numerous group.
Between the Tseigh and Pwan-peen Island, the next island northward, is a
navigable channel for vessels, 3 cables wide. Tong-whang, the largest is-
land of the group, is 6 miles long N.E. and S.W., 2| miles at its extreme
breadth, and its eastern face is high and precipitous ; there is a junk channel
between it and Pwan-peen. Coin Island, the eastern of the Tong-whang
group, has three rocks lying N.W. of it, and to the W.S.W. is a low flat
islet, named Flash, with rocks off its southern end, and two rocky islets
to the north-westward, between which there is a safe channel of 8 fathoms
water.

The entrance to Bulloch Sarhour is between the Tseigh group and a high
island with bold cliffs, named Fakew. It has excellent anchorage in 4 to
10 fathoms, sheltered from all winds.

Vessels have no business in the space between the Pih-ki-shan and the
Tseigh Islands, as the clusters of rocks there are interspersed with reefs
covered at half-tide.

The San-pwan pass between Tong-whang and Miaow to the westward of
it is of great value to small vessels steaming up against the N.E. monsoon ;
but in September, 1866, the north-eastern end of the pass was so filled up
with fishing stakes and nets, that there was great difficulty in finding a pas-
sage for a gunboat.

WAN-CHU RIVER.— N.W. by W. 8 miles from Niaow Island is Wan-
chu Island, fronting the mouth of the Wan-chu River. A mud spit extends

* It is stated by Nav. Lieut. Barns, R.N., who was cruising in these parts in 1866, that
several of the names on the chart have been wrongly inserted or misapplied. For instance,
Tung-pawn is not known to the Chinese bj^ that name, but one of the Tae-pih group is so
called. The natives call the Pih-ki-shan Islands Pah-ki, and Bittern Island Pih-ki-shan.
And in the Eiver Jlin, Wou-fou Island is properly Lowgai, and Pinnacle Island the true
Woufou.

WAN-CHU EIYEE. 1069

6 miles south-eastward from this island, leaving only a shallow channel of

7 ft. water between it and Niaow, close to the latter.

At the entrance of the river it is high water, full and change, at 9'' ; at
Wan-chu fu it is high water at 9'' 30" ; and the rise at each place is 15 to 16
feet. The velocity of the flood is from 3 to 4 knots at springs ; that of the
ebb 4 to 5 knots.

Bound to this river from the southward, when abreast Coin Island steer
N.W. i N., leaving the Cliff Eocks to the northward and the North rock of
Great San-pwan (Chwang-pien) Island to the South. Having passed the
latter, edge away "West for the South point of Hutau Island, leaving a re-
markably steep bluff island, called Hokeen, to the South. Off the South
point of Hutau, and abreast Hokeen, is a sunken rock lying 1^ cable off shore,
but it will be avoided by opening the S.W. point of Hutau to the south-
ward of White Eock in Hutau Bay South of White Eock there is a middle
ground confining the channel, which is North of it, to a width of 7 cables.
There is good anchorage in 4 and 5 fathoms to the S.W. of White Eock,
but the bay within the rock is shoal.

From half a mile off the S.W. point of Hutau the entrance of the river
bears W.N.W. 5 miles, and it will be known by an isolated range of hills
with a square fort at the East, and a small walled town at the West end.
The depths will vary from 3 to 4 fathoms in the channel outside the entrance
which is more than a mile wide, but upon either side the edges of the ex-
tensive mud banks shoal suddenly, and at low water large tracts of them
are dry.

Having passed the range of hills keep the left bank or Notch shore of
the river aboard, until the first hill on the flat island (Wan-chau Island)
bears S.W. by S., when the vessel will have cleared a little ground at half
a mile from the South shore, and li mile E.N.E. of this hill; the highest
part of Hutau in line with the South foot of the hills at the entrance
bearing E. ^ S. is the mark for its northern edge.

From abseast this middle ground, in the vicinity of which and fronting a
village the depth decreases to 11 feet, keep mid-channel, passing a large
walled town on the North shore of the river in 4 to 5 fathoms, then gradu-
ally haul over to the first point on the South side, where the hills come down
to the water's edge, passing a point with a circular fort and a building like
a large jar upon it close-to. The leading mark across, in 5 fathoms, is
Salamis Point, East of Jar Point, in line with a remarkable gap, S.W. by
W. J W.

Vessels ought not to go more than 2 J miles above Jar Point ; they will
then find anchorage in from 3i to 7 fathoms water. At this position, with
the West extreme of the largest island bearing about North, there is a sunken
rock off the South bank. From this anchorage the distance to Wan-chu fu
is 5^ miles, but the channel is too intricate for a stranger. Provisions are

1070 EIVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

cheap and abundant, and the authorities and people well disposed toward
foreigners. Wood is procurable at 25 cents per picul.

In 1869 the upper channel was partially re-examined and found to have
considerably altered since the survey of 1843. The spit extending from the
large island had greatly diminished, along which a narrow channel ran in a
N.N.W. direction, with soundings varying from 3 to 5 fathoms, deepening
towards the high land and a dark bluff, close to which was 7 fathoms. The
depth over the flats on the South side is only 3 ft.

Southern Channel. — There is said to be a good channel into the river on
the southern side of Wan-chu Island and Flats, carrying from 3 to 5 fathoms,
between the S.W. point of Niaow (Miaow) and the rocks lying a mile west-
ward of it. It has a bar of 9 ft. Pilots can be obtained at a village on the
West side of Niaow.

Junh Island, lying on the North side of Hutau, is low and rocky, and the
channel between them, and between Junk Island and the main, can only be
used by small junks. North of Junk is Lot-sin Barj, in the southern parts of
which there is good anchorage. At 2 miles eastward of Hutau is Quang-ta
Island, under the West side of which H.M. brig Plover anchored.

Kemong Harbour. — Westward of the East point of Ta-on is a bight named
Kemong Harbour, with an islet off each point, in which the junks are fond
of taking shelter. It is, however, confined, and vessels will have better an-
chorage to the eastward under either Taluk or Seoluk Islands. A rock lies
awash in the middle of the entrance to the harbour.

Seoluk, Taluk, Chin-M, Towan, and Pe-shan Islands form a group off the
coast from 3 to 14 miles eastward of Ta-ou. Taluk, the centre and highest
of the group, 770 ft. above the sea, is 30 miles N.N.E. of Pih-ki-shan. At
the anchorage between the islands of Chin-ki and Taluk it is high water, full
and change, at g^ 20". ; springs rise 13 ft.

Taow-pung Island, at 9 miles N.N.E. of Pe-shan, is 7 miles long N.N.E.
and S.S.W., and H naile broad, and forms the East side of Yeyvan Bay,
which is shoal and affords no shelter. The island is separated from the main
by Penetration Pass, a narrow channel through which all the country trade
passes.

At 2h and 3 miles respectively to the S.W. of Song-men Point, the South
end of Taow-pung, are two flat rocks above water, a mile apart. To the
south-eastward of the point are three islets, and the nearest, named San-shi,
has a reef off its West side ; the outer islet of the three has a shoal off its
North end. There is a navigable channel, a mile broad, between San-shi
and the rocks off the point. At 3 miles north-eastward of San-shi are the
Stragglers and Shetung Islets ; the northern and highest islet of the latter
group has a reef lying 3 cables from its S.W. point, and many rocky islets
off its South end, between which and the Stragglers there is u channel carry-
ing a depth of 6 fathoms. Indifferent shelter in the N.E. monsoon may be

CHIKHOK ISLAND-CHUH-SEU ISLAND. 1071

found under Shetung. Soudan, the easternmost islet of the group, is flat-
topped, and has a reef off its South side.

Chikhok Island lies North 6 miles from Soudan, and as it rises abruptly
in a cone to the height of 760 ft. above the sea, and has a broad yellow stripe
on its south-eastern side, it forms altogether one of the best landmarks in
this locality ; and S.W. by W. ^ W. of it is the most conspicuous hill on the
coast seen from the offing. N.N.W. \\ mile from Chikhok is Low Chikhoh
Island -with a half tide rock lying N. W. 3 cables from it.

Tai-chau Group extends 9 miles northward of Hea-chi, the southernmost
island, and consists of two large and ten smaller islands. Between the two
large islands is an excellent harbour, the approaches to which, both from
eastward and westward, are free from danger. The southern of these islands,
750 ft. high, is called Hea-ta, tne northern Shang-ta, which is well inhabited.
Between Shang-ta and the Shang Eock, 1| mile to the N.N.E., there is a
safe passage.

About 2 miles southward of the West point of Hea-ta are two rocks, the
western of which lies S.S.W. 3j miles from the highest part of Hea-ta, and
shows at all times of tide ; the other, which bears N.E. ^ N., 4 J cables
from the western rock, and S. by W. % "W. from the highest part of Hea-ta,
covers at high water.

Several watering places will be found on Shang-ta, but the supply from
any one of them is not abundant. The best anchorage in the harbour
between the two large islands of the Tai-chau group, during the N.E.
monsoon, is to the S.E. of the islets, extending from the S.W. point of
Shang-ta. It is high water, full and change, at this anchorage, at 9'' 0"" ;
springs rise 14 feet.

Squall Islands, two in number, the southernmost of another, the Tungclmh
Group, lie 6 miles N.W. by W. of Shang Rock, the northern islet of the Tai-
chau group, and so close as to appear as one, except on an E.N.E. and
W.S.W. bearing. Eocks lie off the N.E. and N.W. points of the northern
island, and a reef extends from the S.E. of the southern island. Junks take
shelter under the western point of the southern isliind during N.E. winds.

Crate Island is a small cliff islet 2^ miles eastward of the Squall Islands,
and the channel between has 8 fathoms in it ; but the western end of Crate
is not steep-to. A group of rocks lie 3 miles W. by N. of Squall.

Chuh-seu Island, lying N. by W. ^ W., 4i miles from the Squall Islands,
is remarkable, having a sharp cone, 670 ft. above the sea, over its southern
point, and a beacon on its western summit. Between Chuh-seu and the Squall
It^lands are four rocks ; and S.E. by E. J E. 2| miles from the highest part
of Chuh-seu is a solitary rock named Fir Cone.

Good anchorage and a convenient watering place, with abundance of water,
•will be found under and to the S.W. of the cone of Chuh-seu in 6 fathoms,
between it and an islet with a reef off' its N.E. point.

1072 ElYEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

TAI-CHAU BAY, to the N.W. by W. of the Tai-chau Islands, is wide and
shallow, and at its head is the entrance to the Tai-chau River, 17 miles West
of the cone of Chuh-seu. On the South bank of the river is the walled town
of Haimun, 4 miles above which the river separates into two branches, one
taking a N.W., the other a S. W. direction. The city of Tai-chau fu is on the
North branch of the river, about 24 miles in a direct line from Haimun.
There are only 8 ft. at low water across the bay to the entrance of the river,
but inside the headlands at the entrance the depths are 4^ and 5 fathoms.
The inhabitants reported that vessels of 12 feet draught could not cross the
bar, except at high water, and that the tide, which rises from 18 to 20 feet
in this locality at springs, would carry them up to the city.

Tung-chuh Island, lying East, a little northerly, 5 miles from Chuh-seu, is
700 ft. high. The two Reef Islands lie S.S.W. 2^ miles from its South point ;
a reef extends north-easterly from the southernmost of the two. Midway
between Reef and Chuh-seu is a cluster of rocks. Gau-tau Island, remarkable
for four barren peaks, lies 3 miles N.W. of Tung-chuh, and there is a half-
tide rock 3 cables North of its N.E. extreme. Shelter may be had in the N.E.
monsoon under the South side of Tung- chuh, but vessels had better gain the
anchorage under Chuh-seu, or endeavour to reach Barren Bay.

Barren Bay, formed between Gau-tau and Kin-men Islands, is 2j miles
wide at its north-eastern entrance, and besides the half-tide rock just noticed
off the eastern promontory of Gau-tau, there are rocks off the eastern point
of Kin-men, and a mud spit off the N.W. point of Gau-tau. Immediately
to the S. W. of Kin-men, and separated by a deep-water channel rather more
than a cable across, is Nine Pin Island, divided near the centre by a sandy
isthmus, on which is the rock from which the island is named. Very poor
shelter will be found between Gau-tau and Nine Pin. South, 2 cables from
the West end of Nine Pin, is a rock which will be seen at half tide.

Fall Island, lying nearly 2 miles northward of Kin-men, has off its West
end two rocks above and one below water. The channel is safe between
these islands, and also between Fall and Chain Islands, but the latter are
not steep-to.

Chain Islands, three in number, bear N.W. by W. 4J miles from Fall Is-
land. South, 2 cables from the centre island, is a half-tide rock ; and there
is a rock awash and two small islets lying off the West end of the southern
island. Between Chain and Pine Cone to the southward are four detached
rocks where the ground has not been examined.

Vessels should keep eastward of the whole group just described, for the
space inside Chuh-seu, Kin-men, Chain, and Sanmun Islands is shallow, and
has in it several rocks covered at high water.

HEISHAN GROUP, consisting of three inhabited islands and eight rocks,
lie N.E. by E. I E. 17 miles from Tung-chuh, and occupy a space 5 miles
North and South, and 2 miles East and West, but they are too small and

SAN-MUN BAY— SHEIPOO EOAD. 1073

too detached to afford shelter. The southernmost island, 320 ft. above the
sea, is the largest. The northernmost island is named llushroom, and N.E.
^ E. If miles from Mushroom is a sunlcen rocJc, of 8 ft. water, from which the
Cheng Eock appears in one with the S.E. end of Cliff or Sha-ho Island,
bearing S.S.W. I W. A quarter of a mile N.N.W. from Mushroom is Sirock
awash at low water.

Montagu Island, or Tanto-shan, lies 19 miles N.N.W. ^ W. of the Hie-
shan group ; the northern portion is called Gore Island. There is an islet off
the S.E. point, and sunken rocks obstruct the channel to the westward.

To the southward of Montagu, and at 2 to 4 miles from the eastern coast
of the large island of Nyew-tew, are six islets ; the southernmost, called the
Twins, are 8 miles from Montagu, and the others are 1 5 to 6 miles from it,
with clear channels between them. A.hvQa.st Dike Islet, the middle and inner-
most islet of the five, is Nose Islet, nearly connected with Nyew-tew at low
water, and vessels passing between them must recollect that neither are
steep-to.

Heroine Rock, awash at low water, was reported in 1851, and has since
been placed in several different positions on the chart. Commander Mat-
thews, of the U.S. ship Ashuelot, in 1875, examined these different positions,
and fixed the position of the rock : — South end of Sanchesan or Triple Island,
W. I S. ; S.W. end of Lea Ming Island, N.W. by W. I W. ; and the West
extreme of Montague Island N. f E. This appears to be the only sunken
danger in the locality.

SAN-MUN BAY entrance is 20 miles N.N.W. of the Heishan Islands,
and it will be readily recognised by the remarkable Thumb Peak, 800 feet
above the sea, called by the Chinese Tafou, and by the opium vessels Albert
Peak ; it rises from the northern end of Tafou Island, on the northern side
of the bay.

Vessels wishing to stop a tide or driven in by bad weather, will find
good shelter in the N.E. monsoon immediately westward of Lea-ming Is-
land, which forms the North point of entrance of the bay. In running for
this anchorage, give a berth of 2 cables to the S.W. point of the island, to
avoid a reef lying off it. The soundings will shoal suddenly after the North
peak of the island is brought southward of East ; the bottom is soft mud.
S.W. f S. 2i miles from Lea-ming, is Sanchesan or Triple Island, and the
depth between them is 1 and 1 1 fathoms.

At the anchorage under St. George Island, San-mun Bay, it is high water,
full and change, at lO'' 20" ; and the springs rise about 15 ft.

SHEIPOO ROAD.— Vessels bound to the roadstead off the town of
Sheipoo may pass close to the northward of the islets off Gore Island, the
northern portion of Montagu Island, and steer to the westward for the two
forts on the summit of Tungmun Island. On the North side of the road-

I. A. 6 X

1074 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

stead are the three Bangao Islands, and South 3 cables from the eastern point
of the centre one, Wangchi, are the Bangao RocTcs, which always show-
There is deep water close to these rocks, except to the westward, where it
shoals to 2 J fathoms ; to avoid which do not bring the higher fort to the
southward of West.

Cliff Island, or Seao-Seao, lying nearly in the centre of the roadstead, has
anchorage off its N.W. end in 4 fathoms, but with a strong wind a consider-
able swell rolls in. A reef of rocks extends westerly from Cliff, and the
channel between it and the islands off the main has 3 fathoms water. South
of Cliff is an islet with foul ground between, and S.S.E. 6 cables from its
East point is a sunken mck. There is a narrow channel between this dan-
ger and the shoal ground extending from Montagu and Gore Islands, the
extremity of which is marked by a flat rojk with a sunken rock 2| cables
N.W. of it. This latter is 5 cables E. by S. of Cliff.

Sheipoo Harbour is between the mainland and Nyew-tew Island, and
at high water has the appearance of a splendid basin, but when the tide
is out the mud dries off shore a long distance, giving it the appearance of a
river. At its western end is an entrance into San-mun Bay, and on its South
shore there is another leading into the bay West of Lea-miug Island, which
is very narrow. The town of Sheipoo stands on the main forming the
northern boundary of the harbour near the sea, and derives its importance
principally as a convenient stopping place for the coasting trade ; the walls
are in a dilapidated state, and the houses and shops are not good.

There are three very narrow entrances, with rapid tides and chow-chow
water in them, leading from Sheipoo Road into Sheipoo Harbour. Two of
these entrances are formed by Tungmun Island. In the centre of the middle
entranse between Tungmun and Sin Island, and just within it, is a rock, on
which H. M.S. Sphinx stvuck in 1858. It lies in the narrowest part of the
channel, and the least water on it was 10 ft., with irregular soundings
around, the deepest water being towards Sin Island ; it appeared very small,
and is probably quite smooth. This passage is not recommended for large
vessels, and, if used, they should keep well over on the South shore.

The northern entrance between Tungmun and the main, although tortuous
and narrow, is safe ; there is also less chow-chow water than in the middle
entrance. The South entrance, between Sin and Nyew-tew, is long and
narrow, and near its mouth is a small flat islet, with a reef extending east-
ward from it. Vessels pass north-eastward of this islet ; but it is said the
Chinese junk-men never use it, and they report rocks in mid-channel.

The Coast from Sheipoo trends northerly about 25 miles to the entrance
of Nimrod Sound, and is fronted by several islets, none of which are large
enough to afford shelter, and the depths about them generally are under 3
fathoms.

Half-tide Rock lies N.E. by N. C miles from the East point of Montagu,

KWESHAN ISLANDS. 1075

with the Bear (an islet near the main with a sharp peak at its western end,
but not always easily made out) bearing N.W. ^N., distant 11 miles. Should
high tides and smooth water prevent this rock being seen, the East point of
Montagu kept westward of S.W. will lead to the eastward.

KWESHAN ISLANDS are eleven in number, besides several rocks. The
central and largest island is 3 miles long, and deeply indented, and its greatest
breadth is 1 J mile ; in two places, however, it is not much more than a cable
across. Near its western end the land rises to a sharp peak, 490 ft. high.
The other islands are much smaller. The whole group is thickly populated.
Pri^a^ecocX, the south-easternmost island of the group, is 450 ft. above the
sea, and remarkable on account of its flat and table-like appearance. The
north-western island of the group is the second in size, and 400 ft. high.
The peak of the largest island bears South of the N.W. island, and between
the two is a mud-bank. By keeping the West extreme of the N.W. island
to the eastward of N.N.E., not less than 3 fathoms will be found with good
holding ground, and not much swell.

South IJ cable from the peak of Kweshan is another island, which is also
high, with steep cliffs ; off its western point is a half-tide rock, and a reef runs
off from its South end. The Holderness Roch lies AV. ^ N. 1 mile from the
highest part of this latter island, and having only 6 ft. water over it, occa-
sionally breaks ; from it the highest part of N.W. Island bears N.N.E. \ E.
Another sunken rock, with only 4 ft. on it, lies S. by W. J W., three-quarters
of a mile from the summit of the same island.

It is high water, full and change, in the neighbourhood of the Kweshan
Islands, at Q*" 30", springs rise about 14 ft. The change in the direction of
the stream does not take place until 2 hours subsequent to the change of
depth. The flood stream comes from the southward at the rate of about 2
knots per hour, and will sensibly assist a vessel in getting into the Chusan
Archipelago. Between the Hieshan and the Kweshan Islands the flood
against a strong northerly wind causes an angry sea. The ebb stream out of
San-mun Bay will be useful in working to windward, provided the vessel
heads up to the northward of N.N.W.

From the N.E. extreme of the Kweshan Group, the Mouse Rocks, nearly
level with the water's edge at high water, bear N.N.W. 6 miles; the Whelps,
50 ft. high, a cluster of four small islets, W.N.W., nearly 10 miles; and a
low flat reef, named Starboard Jack, about 15 ft. high, with two rocks off its
eastern end, N.W. ^ W. 9i miles. Mr. Joseph Gr. Dathan, Master, K.N.,
of H. M.S. Encounter, observed that the Mouse bore S. 75° E. of Starboard
Jack, which would place the rock 6 cables farther to the South.

Pylades Rock. — Mr. Arthur Meldrum, Ningpo pilot, reports a sunken rock
which he had many times seen, with about 6 ft. water, lying nearly 2 miles
S.S.W. ^ W. from the Whelps. When on the rock, Mesan Island shows
between the two South Whelps, and the peak of Patahecock is on with the

1076 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

N.E. point of the island which is nearest to the Holderness Eock. The rock
is well known to the Ningpo pilots.

The Corners are several isolated rocky patches,' 3 miles in extent, and well
above water, lying between the Whelps and Buffaloes Nose, an island 6 miles
to the N.N. W. From the outer or eastern rock, which is occasionally covered,
Buffaloes Nose bears N.N.W. f W. ; there are two islets 1 cable to the west-
ward of it, which will point out its position if the rock should be covered.
The distance between the Corkers and Starboard Jack is about 3 miles, and
the channel between has depths of 6 to 5 fathoms.

Buffalo Nose Channel. —T/ie Tinker is a steep cliff rock, 80 ft. high, lying
N. by E. i E. 2f miles from Starboard Jack. The Buffalo Nose Channel,
the entrance of which is between them, has 6 and 7 fathoms in it, and will
be found the most eligible to take in entering the archipelago during the
N.E. monsoon, as the vessel will be well to windward. There is a sunken
rock off the Tinker S.E. by E. 2 cables from it.

Mesan, the largest of a group of four large and several smaller islets or
rocks, lies at three-quarters of a mile N.N.E. of the Tinker ; it is about 400
ft. hi?h, its ban-en summit forming one of the most remarkable features in
the Buffalo Nose Channel. There are 7 and 8 fathoms water between it and
the Tinker, but sunken rocks extend a short distance from both shores.
Lanyett is the next island N.N.W. of Mesan.

At 3 miles E.N.E. of the Mesan Group is Front Island, the southernmost
of a chain of islets extend N.N.E. 3f miles Beak Island. Between Front
Island and a castellated rock 2 miles to the westward is the entrance to Har-
hour Rouse, which will be found a convenient stopping place in the northern
monsoon for a vessel that has missed her tide through the Beak Head Chan-
nel ; the depth in the harbour varies from 5 J to 2^ fathoms.

Buffalo Nose Island, lying N.W. i W. 16 miles from the N.E. extreme of
the Kweshan Islands, and 6 miles from Starboard Jack, is 1;^ mile long
North and South. There are three peaks on the island, the central one, 500
feet above the sea, being the highest. Near its northern end the island is
perforated, from whence its native name (Niupi-shan) is supposed to be de-
rived. The anchorage westward of Buffalo Nose is secure ; during the N.E.
monsoon, however, the wind blows directly through, and occasional violent
squalls are experienced. Fresh provisions and water may be obtained at this
anchorage, but the supply of the latter cannot be depended upon.

Ploughman Group is composed of three islets, of which the largest lies
W.N.W. nearly a mile from Buffalo Nose, the depth between them vary-
ing from 5 to 18 fathoms. Junks usually pass inside the Ploughman and
Buffalo Nose, and to the westward of the Corkers ; there are, however,
many reefs, and the tides are strong, and vessels will do better to keep east-
ward of Buffalo Nose.

NIMROD SOUND.— Six miles W.N.W. of Buffalo Nose is the entrance of

CHUSAN AECHIPELAGO. 1077

Nimrod Sound, a deep inlet of the coast running 27 miles inland in a W.S.W.
direction. Within the South point of entrance are the Hunters, a group of
six islands, and 3 miles N. W. by N. of these, on the opposite side of the
channel, which carries 5 to 6 fathoms, is the Castle Hock, on the edge of the
mud-flat, which extends 2 J miles from the North shore, and which commences
at Barren Island, 5^ miles above.

Castle Eock may be passed at 4 cables ; the other islands and banks of the
sound are for the most part steep-to. Their position will be best understood
by studying the chart. At its head the sound is separated into two branches
by the Treble Islands. Pass northward of these islands, keeping in mid-
channel to avoid the Half-tide Rock, 3 cables from the North shore.

In the shallow bight on the North shore, to the N.W. of the Treble Islands,
is the village of Tung-ju, from whence there is a paved footpath communi-
cating with the Fungwha branch of the Ningpo Eiver, the distance from
hence to Ningpo being 20 miles in a direct line. On the South side of the
sound, at 3 miles S.W. of the Treble Islands, is also a paved footpath lead-
ing to San-mun Bay. Having passed the Treble Islands, good anchorage
will be found in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud, off the village of Tung-ju.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Nimrod Sound, at lO*" 30",
springs rise about 20 ft.

CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO, of which Chusan is the principal island, lies
near the mainland between the parallels of 29° 39' and 30° 50' N. The ar-
chipelago may be entered from the southward by four channels named the
Buffalo Nose, the Beak Head, the Vernon, and the Sarah Galley, of which
the two former channels may be considered the best to enter by, and the
Vernon to go to sea. Northward of Chusan, the second between Chin-san
Island and the chain of islands extending westward from Video, is generally
taken if bound to Ning-po and Chusan during the N.E. monsoon, being clear
of danger with the exception of the Mariner Eeef at its western entrance.
The water of the archipelago is very muddy, and causes the boilers of
steamers to prime.

Luhwang, the largest of the islands in the S.W. part of the archipelago,
is 9 J miles long N.W. and S.E. It is well cultivated, and maintains a large
population.

The southern face of Luhwang has two small deep indentations with sandy
bays, and a reef projects 3 cables from the point abreast the Mesan and
Lanyett Group, described previously. Eeefs also extend half a mile from
the North extreme of the latter group, narrowing the channel between them
and Luhwang to less than a mile. The coast line of Luhwang immediately
westward of the reef point trends to the N.W., forming a wide bay with three
islets in it, extending to Dufiield Pass. South 1 mile from the easternmost
islet is a mud bank, of 3^ fathoms water, which extends to Mesan, to avoid
which a vessel may keep the islet aboard ; a rock lies half a cable from its

1078 EIVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

South extreme. Duffield Reef lies, off the western extremity of Luhwang at
the eastern side of the entrance to Duffield Pass, and consists of three rocks
above water with a sunken rock between them and Luhwang.

There is good holding ground in 9 to 5 fathoms on the S.W. side of Luh-
wang outside the line of these islets and Duffield Reef Point Within this
line the soundings are irregular from 2| to 4 fathoms.

Fu-to Island, to the westward of Luhwang, has a spit off its North extreme,
and to the N.E. three islets, with a rock 1 cable to the N.W. of Chloe Island,
the northernmost. Tree-a-top Island is o^ cables southward of the South ex-
treme of Fu-to, with a deep water channel between. This island, 180 ft.
high, and about A cables in circumference, has a pile of stones on its summit,
hut no tree.

DiifB.eld Pass, the nearest but not the best channel in, is between Luhwang
and Fu-to. On the Fu-to shore are several islets ; among them the water
shoals to 4 J and 5 fathoms, and a vessel may anchor and stop a tide if neces-
sary. Off the fourth point on the Luhwang side is a reef extending a cable
from the shore ; otherwise this side of Luhwang is very steep-to, the depth
being 35 fathoms within a cable of the mud Two small islets, named The
Notches, lie in the centre of the pass, abreast this reef, and between them and
Fu-to is a half-tide rock ; unless this rock shows, vessels should not tack in-
side the Notches, so as to pass westward of them.

Yomig Hele Rock, with only 16 ft. over it, lies 2 cables eastward of Hebe
Island at the North end of the pass. On the Luhwang side, N.E. from Hebe
Island, and a cable from the shore, is Bird Rock, which formerly had a stone
pillar on it ; there are two islets at 2 cables southward of it.

Gough Pass, formed between Fu-to and the Central Islands, is far pre-
ferable either to Duffield or Roberts Pass, for both shores are steep-to, and
the lead, if hove quickly, will give warning of approach to the shoal extend-
ing half a mile S.S.W. from the southern islet of the Central Islands. The
south-western of the Central Islands is a small islet connected at low water
with the largest of the group by a reef and spit. At half a cable North of
the northern island is a reef.

Roberts Pass, between the Central Islands and the mud which dries 1 mile
from the embankment on Mei-shan Island, is 2 miles long, N.E. and S.W.,
and 4 cables wide ; the depths in it vary from 6 to 40 fathoms, but as the
lead gives no warning, its boundary on the Mei-shan side will not be known
except at low water. On the N.E. side of Mei-shan are the two Damson
Islets, from the northernmost of which, Clijf Islet, a bank of 3 fathoms ex-
tends nearly a mile to the N.E.

Junk Channel, between Mei-shan and the Ketau shore, is 10 miles in
length and 2\ cables wide, and carries a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms except at
the South entrance, where it shoals to 10 ft. Anchorage will be found any-

CHUSAN AECHIPELAGO. 1079

where along the Ketau shore, between Mei-shan and Ketau Point, until
abreast of Sing-lo-san Island, where the water deepens.

Caution. — As there is no anchorage besides the above, but in very deep
water, until that under Elephant Island is reached, it would not be prudent
for sailing vessels to proceed farther unless the wind and tide will ensure
their gaining that position.

Tides. — In the above passes the first of the flood often comes from the
northward, and runs sometimes for three hours before it takes the direction
of the ocean tide.

BEAK HEAD CHANNEL {Taou-sau-mun of the Chinese), the next passage
N.E. of Buffalo Nose Channel, is considered one of the best by which to enter
the archipelago from the southward. Its eastern entrance is 2f miles wide,
between Beak Head, the East extreme of Beak Island, and Vernon Point,
the East end of Vernon Island. Beak Island is nearly 5 miles long, in some
parts very narrow, and remarkable for two hummocks near its West end.
Off Beak Head are three islets ; and south-westward of the head are several
islets and a rock, between which and Luhwang Island is Harbour Eose (page
1076), which will be found a convenient stopping place for a vessel that has
missed her tide through Beak Head Channel. The channel between Luh-
wang and Beak Island has 3^ fathoms least water; but there would be no
object in using it while there are passages so superior.

Off the N.E. face of Beak Island are two reefs, lying respectively 3 cables
and half a cable from the shore. Off the North face are Gull, Shag, and
Puffin Islands ; a reef also extends 3 cables from the N.W. end of Puffin.
Near the "West end of Beak Island the channel is narrowed to half a mile by
the reef of rocks, extending from between Gull and Shag halfway across the
channel, the northernmost of which is always above water, and also by two
small islets lying off the South side of Conical Hill Island, which lies between
Shag and Vernon. Between Conical Hill Island and Vernon are two islets,
the reefs off which render the channel between these islands intricate.

A N.W. by W. \ W. course fur 8 J miles from the eastern entrance of Beak
Head Channel will lead southward of Conical Hill and Conway Islands, and
from thence a N.W. course will clear the channel ; take care, however, in
light winds, to give the Pai Rock, the last islet on the North side of the
channel at its western entrance, a wide berth, as the flood sets directly
towards it. There is good anchorage in 9 and 10 fathoms on the N.W. side
of Conway.

To the northward of Conway Island is a group of islets and rocks, through
which there is a passage into the Vernon Channel ; but owing to the rapidity
of the tides, it should not be attempted without local experience. On the
Luhwang side of Beak Head Channel is a reef, and an islet with a small
pinnacle on it ; the reef, which is generally uncovered, bears S.E. £ S. 2
miles from Cape Luhwang, and by keeping the cape westward of N.W. ^N.

1080 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

it will be avoided. The mud dries 7 cables from the Luhwang shore, in the
bight to the southward of this reef, which makes landing difficult except at
high water.

VERNON CHANNEL {Hea-che-mun of the Chinese), the next channel
northward of Beak Head, is formed by Vernon Island on the South and
Taou-hwa Island on the North, This will be found a convenient passage
from Chusan during the northern monsoon, the distance from Elephant
Island, off Tinghae Harbour, to the open sea being only 17 miles; it should
not, however, be attempted by sailing vessels with light winds, as they are
liable to be becalmed, and experience flaws under the high land of Taou-
hwa, and in some parts the soundings are 60 fathoms, and the tides strong.

The Vernon Channel at its eastern entrance is 1^ mile wide, but 5 miles
within it is divided into two passages by John Peak Island, which has a
rock, lying half a cable from its N.E. extreme, which uncovers at the last
quarter ebb. The passage between John Peak and Taou-hwa is only 3^
cables wide between this rock and two small islets and some rocks which
bound its North side. The passage between John Peak and Vernon is half
a mile wide, and good anchorage will be found on the South side of John
Peak. Caution is necessary to avoid the fishing stakes West of John Peak
Island. The shore of Taou-hwa is bold and precipitous, and the peak of the
island, elevated 1,680 ft. above the sea, is visible at times when the lower
land is obscured by mist. Near its western end the land becomes low,
rising, however, again, and surmounted by a peculiar perpendicular crag,
called Miller'' s Thumh, 606 ft. high, which will be recognised nearly through-
out this part of the archipelago.

Vernon Island has on its N.E. side a wide bay, with two islets and a reef
in it, where vessels may anchor in 4 and 5 fathoms, and procure water from
the several cascades on Taou-hwa Island ; the water may be obtained without
removing the casks from the boats. The East end of Vernon is rugged, with
large boulders of granite ; at this end there is a cove, which runs back three-
quaiters of a mile to the westward, and affords shelter for boats.

SARAH GALLEY CHANNEL is the next passage northward of the Ver-
non, but it is by no means so eligible as those just described. Near the
entrance, at 4 miles N.E. by E. | E. from the South point of Taou-hwa
Island, is the Janun or Laoush Rock, a steep cliff islet, with rocks extending
1^ cable from its South end ; there is also a half-tide rock lying W. by N. f N.,
1| mile from the North extreme of Laoush, with the highest part of Ousha
Island bearing N.N.E. ^ E. If mile.

The coast line of Ousha is steep cliffs, and off its N.W. end is a ledge of
rocks ; the southern end of the island is the highest, and rises in a round
peak. The channel between the N.E. point of Taou-hwa and Peak Island is
not navigable, owing to reefs and strong tides ; neither is there a fit passage
between Peak Island and Tang-fau. Vessels may pass between Peak Island

CHUSAN AECHIPELAGO. 1081

and the two patches of rock lying westward of Ousha ; but there are some
rocks off the North end of Peak which naust be avoided.

The Cambrian Pass, between Ousha and the large island of Chukea, or
Chus Peak, is 2 cables wide, but it should not be used without a command-
ing breeze, on account of the strong tides.

Vessels entering the Sarah Galley Channel from the southward generally-
pass westward of Laoush Eock and Ousha Island, and from thence the chan-
nel is between Ousha and the two patches of rock to the westward, which
are almost covered at high water ; they lie N.N.E. and S.S.W. of one another,
2 cables apart, and half a mile distant from Ousha. After passing these
rocks the course is N. ^ E. 2^ miles, leaving Teen and Yung Islets, off Tang-
fow, and a reef between them, to the westward ; and Hut Islet, off Chukea
(so called from a house on its summit), with a reef of rocks off its South ex-
treme, to the eastward. The channel here is three-quarters of a mile wide.

From thence steer N.W. by N. fur ]f mile, leaving an island with two
hummocks to the southward, and Druid Island to the northward ; but be
careful, after passing Hut Island, that Flat or Liwan Island (the southern
small island at the inner entrance to the channel) is not brought westward
of W. by N. i N., as the water shoals suddenly on the North side, and the
mud dries nearly all the way across from Druid Island to South Chukea
Island, leaving only a small boat channel.

When in the vicinity of Liwan the East end of Chusan will be seen,
having on it a small temple built of large stone slabs. Between Liwan and
Chusan is Lokea Island, the southern shore of which is not steep-to ; and
this is the case with the whole of the islets on the South side of Chusan be-
tween this and Pih-lou, alter which they become steep-to. After passing
the smaller islets South of Ta-kan, the shoal water will be avoided, when
standing northward, by not bringing the rocks off the southern part of Pih-
lou southward of West, or on with Trunk Point on Elephant Island. Liwan
as two rucks off its South end. There is anchorage in 5 fathoms at 8 cables
W. i S. from it.

Chukea Island is about 7 miles long, North and South, and near its
centre is a smooth-topped cone, 1,164 ft. high, named Chukea ^eak, which
is one of the most prominent objects seen in making this part of the archipe-
lago. The South end of Chukea is a ridge as high as the peak.

There are also several indentations on the eastern side of Chukea, and the
southern one, Wolf Bay, affords anchorage at times in the N.E. monsoon.
On the North side of the bay is a black islet, and li mile from the shore is
a peaked rock, off which, at 2 cables to the N.E., are two reefs, showing at
half tide. Off Pelican Point, the North point of the small islet North of
Wolf Bay, is a reef visible at low water; and E.N.E. 3 cables from tlie
point is Nob Eock, always above water.

I. A. 6 T

1082 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

To the eastward of Chukea, at the distance of 5 and 8 miles, are two islets
named Pihting and Tongting. Tongting, the outer one, about 40 ft. high, has
detached reefs S.W. of it. Pihting is a similar islet. Pelican Rock lies E.
by S. J S. 2\ miles from Pelican Point on the Chukea shore, and only shows
at low-water springs.

North, 6^ miles from Pihting, is East Islet, 30 ft. high, and from it Loka,
the northernmost of the islands on the N.E. face of Chukea, bears W. by S.
4 miles, East Bock, nearly awash at low water, lies E. by S. 2 miles from
East Islet, with Tongting Islet bearing S. by E. :^ E. 7 miles, and the summit
of Poo-too (which will be known by a look-out house on it, and the high
land of Chusan forming a table top at the back of it) W. by N. I N. N.W.
by N. 6 miles from East Islet is I^.E. Islet, a conical rock, in form something
like a haycock ; it also lies N.E. i E. 2 miles from the N.E. end of Isthmus.
The Ninepins are four pinnacle rocks with reefs around them lying 1 to 1^
miles East-south-eastward of N.E. Islet, and N.E. by E. ^ E. 5 miles from
the summit of Poo-too.

Isthmiis Island, the outer north-eastern island of the Chusan archipe-
lago, is three-quarters of a mile from the N.E. point of Poo-too, and the
channel between has deep water. A half-tide rock lies E. by N. ^ N. 4
cables from the S.E. point of Isthmus, with the East and S.E. extremes of
Poo-too in one bearing S.W. | S., and the South summith of Isthmus
W. ^N.

Poo-too Island lies 1^ mile from the East extreme of Chusan, and the
channel between is called by the Chinese Leenhwa-yang, or the Sea of
Water-lilies. The island is 3J miles long, North and South, and in one
place only half a mile across. The temples on it are numerous, but the two
largest, on its eastern side, are falling into decay. A narrow projecting
point extends from the eastern side of the island, forming to the southward
a deep sandy bay, in which there are 3 fathoms water ; the islet off the
point has a sunken rock- off its East side, and at a little more than a mile
E. by S. from the S.E. extreme of the point is a pinnacle rock, with 6 feet
water over it, discovered by the S.S. Hochung in 1877. The western face of
Poo-too is ahoal, the 2^-fathom line of soundings being 3 cables from the
shore. An islet lies off the North end of Poo-too, and some rocks half a mile
farther northward ; vessels may pass between the rocks and the islet. A
stream runs into the above bay, on the eastern side of Poo-too. There is
anchorage off the eastern side of Poo-too in 12 and 14 fathoms water, but
several vessels have had a difficulty in purchasing their anchors ; it is also
much exposed, and by no means desirable in bad weather.

To the eastward of the South point of Poo-too, and off the N.E. end of
Chukea, are four islands named Loka, Pih-sha, Lakeah, and Lakeati. There
is a passage between them and Chukea, and a good channel between them
and Poo-too.

CHUSAN ISLAND. 1083

Channel East of Chusan. — Whang Head, the East point of Chusan, op-
posite Poo-too, is a low peninsula. Thence the coast trends 4 miles to
another head which forms ihe S.E. point of Chusan. Shoal water extends
a mile from this shore.

The N.W. and AVest faces of Poo-too Island are shoal-to, leaving, how-
ever, a channel between them and Whang Head nearly a mile wide. The
northern part of this channel has only 4 fathoms in it, and in working
through, when southward of Whang Head, do not bring the ship's head
eastward of North, as the Chusan shore is shoal.

The channel off the S.E. end of Chusan is 2 cables wide, and in the centre
is a reef with a stone pillar on it. The flat extending towards Poo-too has
only Ij fathom on it at low water, and some hard casts ; therefore vessels
drawing over 12 ft. should not attempt this passage, but use the Sarah Gal-
ley Channel. In working through it from the southward between Lokea
and Kin-ho Island, bear in mind that the shoal water extends 3^ cables from
the former, and 6 cables from the latter ; the above pillar or beacon in one
with a cliff islet northward of it, is a good mid-channel mark. After passing
■westward of the beacon, bring the cliff' islet in line with a building on Whang
Head ; thi3 will lead over the flat in the deepest water, and when the South
end of Poo-too bears East it may be steered for.

CHINKEAMUN HARBOUR, at the S.E. end of Chusan, carries on a
considerable fishery to the eastward of Poo-too Island. The harbour, formed
between the island of Lokea and the Chusan shore, is 1^ cable wide. The
S.W. entrance to the harbour, between Lokea and Maoutze Island, has not
more than 2;^^ fathoms in it at low water ; the mud extends westward 4^
cables from Lokea, and a rock lies S.S.E. a cable from the East end of
Maoutze.

Chinkeamun is 11 miles eastward of Ting-hai Harbour. The Shei-luh
Channel, close along the southern shore of Chusan has deep water in it, but
in some places it is so narrow as to be practicable only for small steam vessels
or boats.

CHUSAN ISLAND, so called from its supposed resemblance to a boat, is
51 miles in circumference; its extreme length in a N.W. and S.E. direction
being 21 miles, and its greatest breadth XO^ miles. The island is beautifully
diversified with hill and dale and well cultivated. Besides the principal
harbour of Ting-hai there are three other commercial ports, viz., Chinkea-
mun at the S.E. end of the island, Ching Keang or Singkong on the N.W.
side, and Shaaou at the North end.

Tinghae is situated on the western part of the South coast of the island.
The town is 1| mile in circumference, and surrounded by a wall 14^ feet
high and 13 ft. wide, surmounted by a parapet 14^ ft. high and 2 ft. wide.
A canal nearly encircles the city. The principal exports are fish, coarse

inR4 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

black tea, cotton, vegetable tallow, sweet potatoes, and some wheat. The
water is not good at Ting-hai, and is sometimes scarce.

Ting-hai TTarbour, formed on the South side of Chusan, is fronted by many
small islands, between which are the several channels leading to it. The
outer and westernmost island is To-maou or Tower-hill, Enst of which and
distant 1 and 4^ miles respectively are the large island Teijo or Elephant
Island and Pih-lou. Within, or to the northward of these, reckoning from
the westward, are the islands called Ra-tse or Bell, Fwanche or Tea, Seaou-keu
or Deer, and Ao-shan. The two small islands Taiooo or Trumhall, and Wae-
woo or Macehfifield , lie inshore or to the N E. of Tea Island, fronting the city,
and there are many small islands and rocks among those larger ones abover
named.

The harbour is diflBcult of access in all its approaches, owing to the strong
tides and sunken rocks. The best approach is through Tower Hill and Bell
channels, the latter being between Tower Hill and Bell Islands, and between
Bell Island and Tea Island ; in these no hidden danger has been found ;
but the tides are strong, and sailing vessels in light winds must be careful
that they are not set by their influence between Tower and Elephant, or be-
tween Tea and Elephant Islands, where the ground is foul and the channel
narrow and deep.

Tower Hill Channel — The best approach to Ting-hai Harbour is through
Tower Hill Channel. After passing Ketau Point steer to pass a convenient
distance from the South extreme of Tower Hill Island. Should the tide fail,
enchorage will be found under the islands eastward of Tygosan Island ;
for which purpose pass 3 cables southward of Square Stone Islet, to avoid
the reef lying 1 J cable S.W. of it, and anchor before the channel between
Little Tygosan and Chueii-pi Islands opens, as the water shoals suddenly off
the East end of Entrance Island.

Having rounded Tower Hill Island, haul up, steering first for Bell Island,
then f(jr Tea Island. The soundings in Bell Channel, between Bell and
Tower Hill Islands, vary from 30 to 40 fathoms ; but off the N.W. end of
the latter is a mud bank of 3 fathoms water extending 1^ cable off shore.

There is good anchorage in 10 and 12 fathoms between Boll and Tea
Islands, nearer the latter, but vessels intending to remain here should not
open the channel between Bell and Chusan, as the tides are stronger and
the ground loose. On proceeding from hence to Ting-hai Harbour, take
care to avoid The Nab, a suken rock with 14 ft. over it at low water, lying 2 J
cables from the Chusan shore, and South of a small hillock in the valley
near the shore. The marks for it are Taching Point, the West extreme of
Tea Island, in one with the East side of Taewang or Bell Rock, S. ^ W.,
and the South point of Guardhouse Isle nearly in line with the summit of
Tawoo or Trumball Island. A 3-fathom patch lies about 3^ cables W.S.W.
of the Nab, and E. by N. J N. nearly 4 cables from Ap-tan-shau Island.

CHUSAN ISLAND. 108.5

The Spithead anchorage on the Chusan shore, between the Nab Rock and
Guardhouse Isle, will be found a convenient place for watering ; the anchor-
ing ground is steep-to, and the tides are irregular, and off the entrance to
the watering creek is a mud flat of 3 fathoms water. With light winds,
vessels should avoid the strength of the ebb when passing through tlie
channel between Tea and Guardhouse Islands, fur it is liable to set them
through the Melville Channel. A ledge of rocks, covered at high water,
extends 1 cable from the high- water mark at Kouching Point, the Korth
extreme of Tea Island.

Proceeding towards Ting-hai Harbour, and being abreast of Guardhouse
Isle, steer towards Wae-woo or Macclesfield Island, taking care to avoid the
Middle Ground, which has only 2 ft. on its shoalest part. Tower Hill in
line with the slope on the southern rise of Tea Island will lead along the
southern edge of this shoal, in 4 fathoms. The Wae-woo Channel is only 2f
cables wide between the 3 fathoms line on the edge of the Middle Ground
and Wae-woo and Tawoo Islands. The usual anchorage is abreast Taotau,
tiie suburb of Ting-hai, but vessels must moor, as the eddies are strong.
The channel between Chusan and Guardhouse Isle is only fit for boats.

Cautioti. — Spring tides set at the rate of 3 and 3J knots per hour in the
Tower Hill Channel, and with light winds and a strong flood vessels have
been swept away to the westward, and ( arried by the tide beyond Just-in -
the- Way, and even through the Blackwall Channel ; and after rounding
Tower Hill and entering the Bell Channel many have been borne by the ebb
amongst the islands between Tower Hill and Elephant Island, or between
the latter and Tea Island, where the channels are narrow, the water deep,
and the ground foul. In these cases the bower anchors and chains should
not be used, but a good kedge and stout hawser, which (as the holding
ground is good, and if care be taken to conn the vessel and not break her
sheer) will bring a vessel up and prevent her being driven into these narrow
passages, where some have been brought up in from 30 to 40 fathoms water,
■with two anchors down and three or four round turns in the hawse.

Having rounded the North end of Tea Island with a strong ebb, it is neces-
sary to guard against its taking the vessel through the Melville Channel,
and if not able to pass northward of Macclesfield Island, send the boats
a-head and endeavour to keep the vessel to the northward of Takeu and
Sarah Islands, wher'? the water is not so deep.

The Melville or southern passage to Ting-hai Harbour is between Elej>hant
and Deer Islands, but as two sunken rocks lie in the centre of the channel
and narrow it to 1 j cable, it should not be attempted unless there be a com-
manding breeze, and the mariner have a thorough knowledge of their posi-
tion. Its navigation is rendered more difficult in the neighbourhood of these
dangers by the tides rushing through four different channels into this, and

1086 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

formino' eddies wlilch render a vessel unmanageable even with a good breeze
at the springs. A boat a-head will be found useful at the neaps.

KIDDISOL ISLAND, lies 2 cables southward of Yanglo Point, the S. W.
extreme of Chusan. There is a patch of 2% fathoms off its S.W. end. From
hence to Sinkong Point, 4 miles to the N.W. by N., the coast line of Chusan
is mud, with the exception of a small hillnck at the edge of low water. An-
chorage in 10 and 12 fathoms will be found all along the Chusan shore
between Yanglo and Sinkong Points, but in standing towards the shore be
careful, as the water shoals suddenly after 10 fathoms.

CMng Keang Harbour, on the western side of Chusan, and distant 7
miles in a direct line across country from Ting-hai, is formed between the
islands TTa-feo, Lin, and Latea (otherwise called Outer, Middle, and Lmer
HooTc) and Chusan. Upon the islands, and on the point near the southern
entrance, are extensive stone quarries. There is a white rock off the S.W.
point of Wa-teo, and a mud bank extends from the island nearly to the rock
and also bounds its West side. Between Wa-teo and Chusan the entrance
to the channel is 6 cables wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, forming a
snug anchorage much frequented by the junks as a stopping place, and de-
fended from pirates by a fort. Abreast of Lin, the small island next North
of Wa-teo, the channel is less than a cable wide, with 7 fathoms water. The
town stands on the Chusan shore, on the banks of a stream, which at high
tide is navigable for boats. Here the channel is also less than a cable wide,
and the depths 5 to 4 fathoms.

Kintang or Silver Island is between the West end of Chusan and the
entrance of the Yung or Ning-po Eiver. Near its S.E. extreme is a re-
markable saddle hill, 1,432 ft. high, which with the Cap Eock forms one of
the marks for the Melville Eock. Another remarkable peak, 1,520 ft. high,
is 1^ mile northward of the saddle hill. Alligator Point, the South end of
Kintang, has a reef, which covers at half tide, extending 2 cables to the
southward. There is a beacon, painted white, on the extremity of the reef.
Alqerine Point, the S.E. extreme of the island, has an islet connected at low
tide by a mud flat, from which a ledge of rocks extends S.S.E. 2 cables, the
South end of which covers at high water. The eastern face of Kintang is
bold-to, without any anchorage along it. The western side affords good
temporary anchorage, but it is advisable to take up a position within half a
mile of the shore to be out of the strength of the tide.

Off the North end of Kintang there is a group of seven islets, amongst
which there is anchorage ; off its N.W. end is Taping Island, separated by
a narrow channel of 4 to 6 fathoms. Southward of Taping is the small
harbour of Ta-outse or Lukon, a former station for opium vessels, which
affords good anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms, sheltered by the small island of
Ta-outse. The entrance is between Kintang and Ta-outse Island, and the
channel is barely 2 cables wide. Between Ta-outse and Taping there are

CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 1087

not more than 8 ft. at low water. This harbour is small, but affords good
anchorage, and may be recommended as a sanitary station for vessels
obliged to make a lengthened stay in the Eiver Ynng. Supplies of all kinds
can be readily obtained by native boats from Ning-po. Kintang is well
cultivated and produces abundant supplies, but they all appear to be sent to
Ning-po.

Steward Bock, 5 ft. high, lies in the middle of Blackwall Channel, between
Chusan and Kintang Island. The depths in its vicinity are 25 to 45 fathoms,
except on a rocky patch 2 cables to the eastward, where the least water that
has been found is 6 fathoms.

Blackwall Channel, between Kintang and Chusan, is divided at its north-
ern entrance by Blackwall Island into two passages, both of which are very
difficult, owing to the rapid tides.

There is anchorage off the N.W. face of Blackwall Island, from which ex-
tends, 1| mile, a tongue-shaped shoal of 3 to 5 fathoms, exposed to northerly
winds. A reef extends westward 1^ cable from the West end of Blackwall,
to avoid which do not open Steward Rock eastward of Rondo Islet.

Broken Island is connected at low water to the N.W. extreme of Chusan
by a mud bank. Crack Islet lies about half a mile from its North point. A
mud spit runs of north-westerly 4 cables from Crack Islet.

Dunsterville Group, N.W. 3 J miles from Broken Island, is a batch of low
islets which may be approached as convenient, the soundings between them
and Crack Islet varying from 5 to 4 fathoms. The tides are strong in this
neighbourhood, the flood running to the West, the ebb to the East.

SHAAON HARBOUR, or North Bay, formed between Chang-pih or Fisher
Island, and the North end of Chusan, is 2 miles long, If mile wide, and has
a varying depth from 5 to 9 fathoms. Broken Island, as before stated, is
steep-to on its N.E. side ; from the western part of Chang-pih shoal water
extends half a mile. The southern shore of Chang-pih is an extensive mud
bank, a considerable portion of which has been enclosed from the sea by
embankment ; off its S.E. end the water is shoal, the 3-fathom line being
half a mile from the shore.

The Chusan shore is bordered by a mud bank, which renders landing,
unless at high water, difficult, except in one place near the eastern end of
the harbour, where there is a causeway. Near the causeway are some
houses, but the principal village is some distance up the valley. A small
islet lies off the North end of Chang-pih, and a group of islets, named Cluster
or Midway Islands, off the N.E. end.

Vessels bound to the eastward from Shaaon Harbour may pass either
through the Kwei Channel, between Lan-sew or Sheppey Island and Chusan,
or to the northward of Lan-sew, which is the better channel of the two, but
both are difficult fur a stranger. A sunken rock lies 3 cables from the
S.E. point of Chang-pih, with the South extreme of Chang-pih bearing W.

1088 RIYER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

i N., the largest of the Cluster Islets, N.E. of Chang-pih, N. | W., and the
Bummit of Lan-sew open of the rocks oflf Ma-aou Point E. by N. ^ N.

The Kwei Channel, never to be attempted during the strength of the tide,
is between the large island of Lan-sew, 4 miles East of Chang-pih and the
Chusan shore, and, although U mile broad, the navigable passage is greatly-
contracted by the numerous rocks and islets on either side. At its western
end it is only three-quarters of a mile between the two rocks off Ma-aou
Point and the Houblan Islets extending from the West side of Lan-sew.
In the centre, the Lan-sew shore is bold, but two chains of islets from
Chusan stretch half way aci'oss. The eastern end is narrowed to 2 cables
between Kanlan Point on the Chusan shore and the small islet with a reef
of its S.E. end, lying South of Sewshan or Grain Islet off Lan-sew.

There is the Kwimun Channel, close in to the Chusan shore, but it is
crooked, and a sunken rock lies near the centre.

The island of Lan-sew appears formerly to have been two, the interven-
ing space having been gained from the sea by embanking ; it is now called
by the Chinese Lan-shan and Saw-shan, and is 3i miles long and 2 J miles
broad.

Channel North of Lan-sew. — When leaving the anchorage in Shaaon Har-
bour by the Chang-pih Channel, and intending to pass North of Lan-sew,
steer about N.E. by E. for Kwi-si, a barren island with a round peak upon
it. The southern side of this island is steep-to, and the distance between it
and the N.W. point of Lan-sew is 1^ mile ; a mud bank dries 1 J mile from
the western side of the latter, and is steep-to, the lead giving no warning,
but its northern edge will be avoided by keeping the North end of Mo-un
(the largest islet off the North end of Lan-sew) open of the North extreme
of Lan-sew.

Having passed Kwi-si steer for the next island, Kwan, the South shore of
■which keep close aboard, to avoid a reef which lies half a mile to the
southward and covers at high water ; from the reef Kwi-si Hill bears W.
by N., and the highest part of Lan-sew S.S.W. § W. ; the ground between
this reef and Lan-sew is foul. Although the channel is half a mile wide, it
is difficult to shoot through, owing to the eddy tides and flaws off Kwan,
which is 600 ft. in height. When the reef is passed, take care to avoid a
ledge of rocks extending a short distance from the N.W. point of Mo-un,
which bounds the channel to thq southward.

To the eastward of Kwan are nine islands lying off the S.E. end of Tae-
shan to the northward ; there is a reef off the southern end of the nearest.
From thence an East course may be steered to sea along the southern coast
of Keu-shan Island and the Fisherman's group. The channels North of
Kwi-si and Kwan are described hereafter.

Anchorage. — Vessels wishing to anchor on the East side of Lan-sew Is-
land may haul to the southward after passing the first islet East of Mo-un,

LAN-SEW BAY. 1089

running between it and Gan-ching, a cluster of rocks to tlie eastward. At
the East end of Lan-sew is a low cliff, named Hartey Island, which may be
passed at a cable, when hauling to the southward, anchorage will be found
in 5 fathoms, the water shoaling gradually towards the shore. H.M.S.
Ptjlades, in 1840, anchored here in 5| fathoms, with the East end of Harty
Island N. | W. 6 cables, and Grain Islet S.W. by W. In the northerly
monsoon there is a better anchorage at 7 miles to the N.E. in Peaked Eock
Bay on the southern shore of Keu-chan.

Clijfs and Doub Hocks, to the eastward of Lan-sew, at the distance of 2
miles and .5 miles respectively, are two cliffy islets. South 2 cables from
Cliffs, the western islet, is a ledge of rocks nearly awash at high water, and
the ground in its neighbourhood is foul ; there are rocks, also, which show
at low water, lying 1:^ cables from the N.E. point of the same islet.

The N.E. Coast of Chusan, East of Lan-sew, trends S.E. 11 miles to
Whang Head, a low peninsula forming the East end of Chusan. At the
distance of 3 miles is Thornton Island, with a narrow passage between it and
Chusan, and a deeply indented bay westward of it, in which the mud dries
out a long way, rendering it difficult to land except at the extreme points;
an islet and rocks lie off the N.E. face of Thornton. At 2| miles farther to
the S.E. is Tsae, a larger island with a remarkable fall in the hills near its
centre. The Chusan shore hereabouts is shoal-to.

To the eastward of the North part of Tsae are three islands at the distance
of half, 1^ and 83 miles. The nearest, named Meih-yun, the largest of the
three, has a patch of rocks lying N.N.W. 4 cables from its North point.
Meih-ting, the central islet, has a pinnacle rock lying E. by N. half a mile
from it, and a rocky patch at 2 cables westward of its North extreme. The
outer islet, Jow Rock, is a narrow cliff with a rock lying one cable from its
North side. There are islets also N.W. of Tsae.

Half way between Tsae and Whang Head is a low island, named Ta-chen,
and the depth in its vicinity is 3 fathoms. A reef lies three-quarters of a
mile S.E. of Ta-chen, and a quarter of a mile from the Chusan shore, with
the N.E. point of Ta-chen in one with N.E. point of Tsae N.N. W., and the
North end of the Poo-too group E. by N.

Between Ta-kan and Maoutze there are not more than 6 ft. at low water,
and the same depth between the two latter ; between Ao-shan and Deer
Island there is a deep water channel, but it is confined by mud banks and
obstructed by reefs.

LAN-SEW BAY, 10 miles across and 10 deep, is formed between the N.E.
face of Chusan and the extensive chain of islands running in an E.N.E. direc-
tion towards Video Island. The navigation of the southern part of this bay,
from the N.W. point of Chusan to Poo-too Island, has been noticed above,
and on page 1088.

I. A. 6 z

1090 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

The NORTHERN PART of the CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO consists of
numerous islands and rocks, which extend northward of Chusan a distance
of 40 miles to the entrance of the Yang-tze kiang, and front Hang-chu Bay.
All of them are inhabited, with the exception of the outlying Barren Isles
and Leuconna, and small supplies may be obtained, but the natives, except
at Tae-shan Island, were in a very miserable condition, owing to the con-
stant visitation of pirates. Many good anchorages will be found among
them, in depths gradually increasing from 5 fathoms off Hang-chu Bay to
30 fathoms on the outer part of the bank. The outer islet, Jow Rock, is a
narrow cliff with a pinnacle rock between it and Meih-ting.

As vessels bound to the Tang-tse kiang usually pass eastward of this
archipelago, and as, in the northern monsoon, they endeavour to make the
island of Video if they cannot weather the more northerly Barren Isles, we
shall commence with the eastern islands, and then continue the description
westward.

VIDEO ISLAND, in lat. 30° 8' N., long. 122° 46' E., bearing E. by N. l^
N. 22 miles from the summit of Poo-too, and N.E. by N. 19 miles from
Tong-ting Islet (page 1082), is about 1,500 ft. high, nearly square, and has
a bold precipitous appearance, and a remarkable white cliff which shows
when the island bears N. W. by N. ; when first seen from the S.W. the island
appears flat and shelving to the westward. It is proposed to establish a
lighthouse on this island.

At 5 miles E. by N. i N. from Video are four rocks called the Four Sisters;
and E. by N. 9 miles from Video are two rocks named the Two Brothers.
As the soundings in this vicinity are above 30 fathoms, any cast below that
depth will, in thick weather, point out that a vessel is among the chain of
islands.

Leuconna Island bears N.N.E. J E. 18 miles from Video, and when seen
from the southward it makes like three abrupt, round-topped hummocks.

Beehive Rock, a remarkable rock 35 ft. high, has 14 and 16 fathoms water
around it, and a rock awash lying 3 cables to the eastward. Leuconna bears
from it E. by N. ^ N. 12^ miles, and Video S. by E. ^ E. 13 miles.

Barren Isles, three in number, in lat. 30° 43' N., long. 123° 7' 14" E., are
three-quarters of a mile in extent. East and West, and about 50 feet high,
and at 2 cables S.E. of the eastern isle is a reef awash at high water. This
reef appears to extend three-.quarters of a mile S.E. of the isle. Barren
Isles lie E. i N. 16 miles from East Saddle Island, and N.N.E. f E. 20 miles
from Leuconna.

FISHERMAN'S GROUP.— North of Chusan, a chain of islands extends
frotn Video W. by N. s N. 45 miles, terminating in the Volcano Islands,
facing Hang-chu Bay. Between Video and the Fisherman's Group, the first
islands westward, there is a channel 2 miles wide ; but among the Fisher-
man's Group, consisting of four islets and several rocks, vessels ought not to

KEU-SHAN— TAE-SHAN ISLAND. 1091

go. Perhaps the best channel through the chain is close to the westward of
this group, S.S.W. | W. 9J miles from the Beehive. From this to ITeu-shan,
westward, is 10 miles, with many intervening islands, but the channels be-
tween ought not to be attempted, as, from the character of the land, there
are, no doubt, many sunken rocks.

Shelter will be found under Hall Island, the largest of these intervening
islands, at 7 miles westward of Fisherman's Group ; but a vessel h.ad better
go on to Keu-shan Island, and anchor on the South side in Peaked Eock
Bay, bearing in mind that the head of the bay is shoal.

Keu-shan, the first large island of this chain, is 8 miles long. East and
West. Peaked Rock Bay is westward of Eden Point, the S.E. end of the
island. Along the southern side of Keu-shan are several islets and rocks, to
which give a berth of 2 cables. Off the western part of Keu-shan is Chang-
tow Island, the peak of which rises over the West side of the island to the
height of 920 ft. above the sea, rendering it one of the most conspicuous
objects of the chain. Between the islands is a narrow channel, named
Chang-tau Strait, carrying 5 fathoms, but the South point of Chang-tau is
not steep-to.

Tae-shan Channel is West of Chang-tow, and between it and Tae-shan.
Its approach from Lan-sew Bay is I5 mile wide between the West part of
Keu-shan and the Doub and Cliff Eocks (page 1089). From the Cliffs the
Bouthern entrance to the Tae-shan Channel bears North, and is formed by
the islets of Pou-no and Pou-ti to the West, and Funing Island, with the Cliff
Islet South of it, to the East ; off the West end of the latter is a reef, covered
at high water. N.W. by W. 6 cables from Funing are two low rocks, and
the space between them and Funing is shallow. Between these rocks and
the South point of Chang-tau is Chang-tau Strait.

The Tae-shan channel is a mile wide. Both shores are shoal-to, and a
sunken rock lies S.S.E. 2 cables from the projecting point on the Tae-shan
shore. A mile N.E. of this point is Gan-su Island, which has a double peak
on it, and there are two islets on each side ; the channel lies between it and
Chang-tau, under the North head of which is low rock.

The directions for passing South of Tae-shan Island, between Kwan and
Lan-sew, have already been given in page 1088 ; but it remains to describe
Tae-shan and the channels between it and the Volcano Islands.

TAE-SHAN ISLAND, 8 miles long and 5 broad, and the third in point of
size in the archipelago, Chusan and Luhwang only being larger, is very
populous, and carries on an extensive manufactory of salt from sea water.
The centre of the island is an extensive plain, with many villages ; the hills
also separate near the eastern extreme, leaving a level plain across the is-
land. Off the S.E. end of the island are nine islets, among which vessels
have no business to go. There is a passage close to the eastward of Kwan ;
but owing to strong tides and the flaws under the bluff* land of this island.

1092 EIYER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

vessels had better pass South of Kwan and between it and Kwi-si Islands,
where there is a channel a mile wide ; the mud dries 3 cables from the West
end of Kwan.

At Towtow Point, the West end of Tae-shan, the hills come down to tlie
water's edge, and midway between it and Chang-pih are Miles and EUicott
Isles, with 5 and 7 fatlioms in their vicinity. The Show Islands, one of which
is high, lie 6 cables westward of Towtow Point ; the channel between having
4 fathoms at low waterr On the North side of Tae-shan are four islets,
which are too small to afford much protection in the N.E. monsoon, but
during the summer good anchorage will be found off the town near the
centre of the island. The bay is very capacious, but the whole of it is
shoal, and the tides are very strong.

VOLCANO ISLANDS.— East Volcano, with four peaks on it, lies 6 miles
westward of Towtow Point, and is 4 miles long North and South. East of
its South point is an islet ; and between it and the Show Islands off Tae-
ehan are the two Beclier Islets, with steep cliffs, lying close together, and also
two low rocks Ij mile North of the latter. Kestrel Hock, awash at three-
quarters ebb, was passed by H.M.S. of that name in 1876. It lies nearly in
mid-channel between Beecher and Show Islands, the South extremes of
Beecher Islands were in line bearing W. by N. northerly, and the centre of
Miles Island S. i E.

Vessels passing between the Show Islands and East Volcano should be
careful not to stand too close to the latter, as the water shoals to 2 fathoms
at li mile off shore. East 3 cables from its North point is a half-tide rock,
steep-to.

Anchorage. — There are many sunken rocks among the group of islets which
extend 5^ miles off the N.W. face of East Volcano, among which vessels
ought not to go, but they will find anchorage with shelter from northerly
winds on the South side of West Volcano, the southern of the group of th©
East Volcano, the anchorage being to the northward of a flat rock, lying
westward of the South point of the latter. The northernmost islet of the
group has a reef lying 1| cable northward of it.

WEST VOLCANO LIGHT,— Since October, 1872, there has been ex-
hibited from a lighthouse recently erected on the western island or rock of
the Volcano group, z. fixed hright light, elevated 93 ft. above the sea, which,
in clear weather, should be seen at a distance of 15 miles. The illuminating
apparatus is of the fourth order, dioptric. The tower is of stone, 33 ft. high,
and painted black ; and the keeper's dwelling is painted white.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Volcano Islands, at 11''
SO-", springs rise 15 ft. The flood sets W.N.W. and the ebb E.S.E. The
velocity of the tide will be found to increase as Hang-chu Bay is ap-
proached, and in light winds a wide berth should be given to all the islets
hereabouts.

CSlN-SAN ISLAND— SADDLE GROUP. 109-5

Skead Islet, lying 4| miles northward of the Show Islands, has a smaller
islet on its N.W. side and another on its S.E. side. The depths from 2 to 4
miles around Skead are unknown, but towards the Rugged Islands, to the
northward, they vary from 5 to 7 fathoms.

Mariner Reef.— A notice was published in the " North China Herald,"
in February, 1857, of a rock or reef, on which the merchant brig J/armer*
Hope struck, when running between Tae-shan and Chin-san Islands towards
Ning-po. The vessel was 12 hours on the reef, which was stated to be about
a third of a mile long, East and West, 2 cables broad, and had 7 fathoms at
her bows, with only 5 ft. under her stern, at low water. Skead Islet bore
S. |- E., distant 3 miles ; South extreme of Chin-san, E. J S. ; large Volcano,
S.W, westerly; and extremes of Rugged Islands from N.N.W. \ W. to
N.N.E. i E.

CHIN-SAN ISLAND, 8 miles long East and West, lies W. by N. 13 miles
from the Beehive Rock, and 5^ miles to the N.E. of Tae-shan. The channel
South of this island, and between it and the chain of islands extending from
the Fisherman's group, is sometimes taken during the northerly monsoon by
vessels bound to Ning-po or Chusan, and it appears preferable to that through
Lan-sew Bay, being broad and clear of danger, with the exception of the
Mariner Reef just described. There are several islets lying off the eastern
and northern face of Chin-san ; the best anchorage in the northerly monsoon
is westward of the south-eastern islet, between it and Chin-san ; and there
is also tolerable shelter on its western side, off Pennell, the S.W. point of
Cbin-san.

SADDLE GROUP. — This important group of islands lies off the estuary
of the Yang-tse kiang, directly in the track of vessels entering from the
southward.

East Saddle, the outer southern island of the group, is 32 miles northward
of Video, W. i S. 16 miles from the Barren Isles, and N. by W. ^ W. 17
miles from Leuconna Island. South Saddle on the West, and contiguous to
it is rugged, the highest part, at the N.E. end, rising 680 ft. above the sea.

A roch, which shows at low water, lies in the bay on the East side of the
island, with the highest part of the rocky islet close to the eastern point of
the bay in line with a conical hill over the West point of East Saddle.

Eight miles N.W. of East Saddle is North Saddle Island, 780 ft. high.
Between them is False Saddle Island ; and south-westward of North Saddle
are the Side Saddles, two narrow islets which will afford shelter, but not so
good as under South and East Saddle. North Saddle forms the North end
of the Chusan Archipelago, and from it the Amherst Rocks at the mouth of
the Tang-tse kiang bear N.W. | N. 26 miles, the soundings gradually shoal-
ingifrom 12|to 6 fathoms.

Anchorage. — The most convenient anchorage in the northern monsoon
amongst the Saddle group is under East Saddle, and in the event of being

1094 ETVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

caught in a southerly wind a vessel might run between the islands, taking
care to keep South Saddle close aboard, within 1 J cable, as there is a large
patch of 3 fathoms occupying the centre of the channel, and three rocks awash
North of it. Water can be obtained at the East end of East Saddle.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at an hour before noon, and the
rise is 14 ft. ; the tides are said to be regular, the flood setting to the N.W.,
the ebb to the S.E.

LIGHT. — On the N.E. extreme of North Saddle Island there is exhibited
from a lighthouse a revolving hright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every
minute, elevated 273 ft. above the sea, and in clear weather visible from a
distance of 24 miles. The tower, of brick, is 54 ft. high, upper part black,
lower part white ; the keepers' dwellings are painted white. To the south-
ward, south-eastward, and south-westward, this light is obscured by several
of the more lofty islands of the Saddle and Parker groups, which intercept
it between the bearings of E. by N. ^ N. and N.W. ^ W. ; but it is visible
in all other directions.

Childers Rock, lying 4! miles South of the East part of East Saddle
Island, uncovers at low tides, with the Barren Islands bearing E.N.E., Leu-
conna Island S.S.E. \ E., and the summit of Senhouse Island W. by N.
The lead will give no warning of approach to this danger, the depth being
24 fathoms close-to.

Bit and Cairnsmore Rocks are in the channel, 4 miles wide, between the
Saddles and the Parker group next westward. Bit Rock, not much elevated
above high water, and with a rock awash reported to lie 1 cable S.E. of it,
is 4 miles West of South Saddle and South of the chain of rocks and islets
extending from Side Saddle. On approaching from the South, Bit Rock i»
not easily distinguished at first ; it has a remarkable patch of rock with one
part standing upright like a mile-stone, a little to the northward of it.

Cairnsmore Roch, a dangerous pinnacle not more than 30 or 40 ft. in dia-
meter, and on which the ship Cairnsmore was wrecked in 1858, rises almost
perpendicularly from soundings of 12 fathoms at about 2^ miles eastward of
the East end of Efifiles Island. When examined, the precise depth on the
pinnacle could not be ascertained, as the wreck, with her fore-mast standing,
quite covered it, but there cannot be more than 11 ft. over it at low water
springs.

From the rock, the S.E. point of Senhouse bore South ; a small rugged
rock lying close to the S.E. point of Raffles, and in line with the point,
S.W. by W. i W. ; and the northern rock of the group lying oflf the North
part of Chesney Island, N.W. by W. i W.

Caution. — Vessels navigating the channel between the Saddle group and
Raffles Island are cautioned to keep well over towards the Saddle Islands
to avoid the above danger, as the lead will give no warning when approach-
ing it. In sailing North, when the Bit Rock opens South of the South

PAEKER AND RUGGED ISLANDS. 1095

Saddle they will be northward of the Cairnsmore ; and in sailing South,
when the same rock opens North of the South Saddle they will be south-
ward of it.

PARKER 1SLA'S'DS,—Rafffes Island, the largest of this group, bears West
11 miles from South Saddle Island. At half a mile from the N.E. point of
Raffles, and 2 miles W. by N. of the Cairnsmore, is a sunken rock. Senhouse
Island, with steep cliffs, lies If mile S.E. of Raffles ; there is a good channel
between them, and anchorage will be found on the South side of Raffles in
the northerly monsoon.

Brooke Island is a mile S.W. of Senhouse Island, and the channel between
should not be used, as the wind is liable to fail under the latter ; there is,
however, a good passage 2 miles wide West of Brooke, between it and the
Bonham Isles. Off the North end of Raffles is Chesney Island, from which
rocks and islets extend 2 miles farther northward. A rock, on which the
ship Tonlridge struck, is reported to lie 2^ miles northward of Chesney
Island, so that this locality must be carefully avoided. N.W. of Raffles, and
distant from it If mile, are the Elliot Islets, on the S.W. side of which H.M.
brig Plover anchored, and found lair shelter, with the wind blowing hard
from the northward. From the Elliot, Gutzlaff Island bears W. by N. ^ N.
lOJ miles.

Morrison Island, 7 miles S.W. of Raffles, with smaller islands about it, is
very precipitous. The south-western islet of the Parker group is 2 miles
S. by W. of Morrison ; and East of this is a chain with deep water passages
between extending to Senhouse.

RUGGED ISL4NDS lie W.S.W. 15 miles from Raffles. Formed like a
pair of callipers, 10 miles in length, and opening to the westward, the group
affords shelter in both monsoons, but the tides set through it with consider-
able velocity. Tayimg, on the South, the largest and highest of the group,
is 660 ft. above the sea, and differs from the rest by being round topped,
whereas the others are, as their name denotes, rugged and barren. Under
the South side of an islet West of Tayung is Pirate Bay, which affords snug
anchorage during the northerly monsoon, and a better shelter than the bay
within the S.W. and N.W. horns of the group. A reef, which generally
breaks, lies off the East side of Pirate Bay.

On the North side of this group the largest island is Tripoint, remarkable
for its triple peak ; and East of it is Spire Islet, on which is a curious pin-
nacle. The islands are inhabited by fishermen, and the various anchorages
are frequented by the trading junks.

At 3f miles N.E. by N. from the N.W. Horn of the Rugged Islands is an
islet having a reef running out from the N.W. of it, with several rocks above
water called the Hen and Chicks.

A shoal of only 10 ft. has been reported to lie S.W. 7 miles from Gutzlaff
Island, v/hich would place it E. by N. ^ N. not quite 2 miles from the Hen

1096 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

and Chicks. The chart shows indications of a bank of 65 fathoms in this
vicinity, extending from between 2 and 6 miles eastward of the latter, with
6 to 7 fathoms around.

GUTZLAFP ISLAND, 210 ft. high, andN.E. ^ E. 8^ miles from tbe Hen
and Chicks, is a round, smooth-topped island, surmounted by a low light-
house, and the most conspicuous object off the southern entrance of the
Yang-tse kiang. A small islet lies half a mile N.N.E. of it, and "it has
been reported, from many sources, that a bank with only 2 fathoms on it
extends a mile from its western side."

■ A LIGHT was first exhibited on Gutzlaff Island in the year 1869.
It is di fixed hriglit light, elevated 270 feet above the level of the sea, and in
clear weather should be seen from a distance of 20 miles. The lantern
is 24 ft. high, and painted white ; there is no tower. When it is desired to
attract the attention of passing vessels, a gun or guns will be fired and sig-
nals made. During fogs guns will be fired in answer to the fog signals of
passing vessels. Gutzlaff Island is a Telegraph Station.

Tides of the Chusan Archipelago. — In the Vernon Channel, at the South end
of the Chusan Archipelago, it is high water, full and change, at 9"^ 40™, and
springs rise 14 ft. ; in Ting-hai Harbour, at ll*" 0", springs rise 12 ft., neaps
9 ft. ; at Pootoo Island at 8'' 15"", springs rise 12 ft. ; in Lan-sew Bay at
lO*" 0", springs rise 13 ft. ; at the Volcano Islands at 11^ 30", springs rise 15
feet; and at East Saddle Island at IP O"', springs rise 14 ft.

Under Luhwang Island the flood sets to the N.W. at the rate of 2 knots
per hour, and the ebb to the S.E. at IJ knot. In Dufiield, Gough, and
Roberts Passes, the first of the flood, at full and change, often comes from
the northward, and sometimes runs in that direction 3 hours before the tide
through Buffalo Nose Channel overcomes that through the Beak Head,
Vernon, and Sarah Galley Channels. In Duffield Pass the tide sometimes
runs 5 knots; in Gough and Roberts Passes it is not so strong; in Beak
Head Channel 4 knots is about the maximum ; and in Vernon Channel it
has been known to run 6 knots. Off Roundabout Island the tidal streams
are not so violent, but the eddies take command of a sailing ship at springs.

In the southei'n entrance to Sarah Galley Channel, between Laoush and
Ousha Islands, the flood ran W. by S. at the rate of 2 knots, the ebb E.S.E.
1^ knot ; the moon was then 18 days old. In the Cambrian Pass, between.
Ousha and Chukea Islands, H.M. steamer Vixen, with the Cambrian in tow,
could not stem the ebb.

In the Tower Hill Channel, as before stated, with a strong flood, vessels
have been swept to the westward, and carried by the tide beyond Just-in-
the-Way, and even through Blackwall Channel ; and after rounding Tower
Hill and entering Bell Channel, many have been borne by the ebb, between
Tower Hill and Tea Islands. Having rounded the North end of Tea Island
with a strong ebb, it is necessary to guard against its taking the vessel

KINTANG CHANNEL. 1097

through the Melville Channel, and if not able to pass northward of Maccles-
field Island, send the boats a-head and endeavour to keep the vessel to the
northward of Sarah Island, where there is shoal water to anchor. In the
channel between Bell Island and Chusan, the tide at times runs with great
strength, so much so that on one occasion the Madagascar steamer had great
difficulty in stemming it.

In the Blackwall Channel the eddies are as strong as they are off Round-
about Island, taking a sailing ship round against both helm and sails. In
the Kintang Channel, between Kintang Island and Deadman Island, the
tides sometimes run 4 knots.

In the northern part of the Chusan Archipelago, with Lan-seu Island
bearing West 5 miles, the flood ran to the W.N.W. the first hour, then
N.W. ; total amount of tide 1 1 knots. The ebb, S.E. by S. the whole tide ;
total amount 5f knots.

KINTANG CHANNEL, between the South Coast of Kintang Island and
the mainland, is about 21 miles wide, but is narrowed to 1^ mile by an ex-
tensive mud bank (which borders its southern shore), and by a ledge of
rocks extending 2 cables from Alligator Point, the South extreme of Kin-
tang, which is marked by a beacon, painted white, from which Long-nose
Point bears N.W. by W. about 7 cables, and Just-in-the-Way E. \ S.
This mud bank dries upwards of three-quarters of a mile from the shore, is
steep-to, and the lead gives little warning ; there are some small islets lying
on its outer edge, near the westernmost of which is a boat creek, from
whence there is a paved footpath leading to Tein-tung, and so on to Ning-po,
the whole distance being about 18 miles, the last 6 miles of which may be
performed by canal.

Just-in-the-Way is a small islet, 20 ft. high, with rocks extending 1^ cable
from its S.S.E. side, lying in the eastern entrance of the Kintang Channel.
To the S.E., between it and Tygosan Island, there is fair anchorage in 12 to
16 fathoms, which will be found a convenient stopping place should there not
be sufficient tide to take a vessel on to the Biver Yung, the anchorage out-
side of which is much exposed.

The Deadman is a square island, lying W. h N. 2^ miles from the South
extreme of Kintang, and 4^ miles westward of Just- in-the- Way. The chan-
nel between it and Kintang is rather less than I'l mile wide, with deep water
and strong tides. The Ko Channel, between the Deadman and the main, is
half a mile wide, but is not recommended, as the tides run with great strength,
and the limit of shoal water on the South side is not well defined.

A pinnacle rock lies in the channel between Dumb Island and the main.
From the rock Ko Point bears S.S.E. f E. 1^ cables; West extreme Dumb
Island, N.N.W. | W. ; South extreme of Deadman Island, E. by N.

Blonde Roch, a short half mile northward of the Deadman, shows at low
water springs. The marks for it are, the easternmost islet off the N.E. point
I. A 7 a

1098 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

of the Deadman in one with. San-shan Islet S.E. I S. ; and the West end of
Dumb Islet S.W. J W, Beacon Hill, at the East side of entrance to the
citadel) is in line with Cone Hill bearing S.W. I S., which leads westward
River Yung, in line with the citadel bearing W.S.W., leads northward of
the rock. It is marked by a wooden leacon, with cage, said to be painted
white.

TSE-LE or SaUARE ISLAND, off the Yung River, is 2| miles N.W. by W.
from the Deadman ; there is a patch of 2f fathoms water at 6 cables S.E. by S.
from its North end.

LIGHT. — K fixed bright light, visible all round, at an elevation of 123 ft.
above the sea, is exhibited from a white octagonal tower, 33 ft. in height,
on the summit of the island. The lightkeepers' dwellings are painted white.
A fog-hell is sounded once every 15 seconds in foggy weather.

H.M.S. Conway anchored W.S.W. of this island, with Pas-yew, the
western of the Yew Islands, bearing South. This anchorage in the summer
season is safe, but during the autumn and winter violent gales with thick
weather rise rapidly, causing an uneasy sea, in which a vessel will have diffi-
culty in weighing her anchor ; consequently, the anchorage at Just-in-the-
Way or that in Ta-outse Harbour, at the N.W. end of Kintang, should be
resorted to at this season.

Pas-yew or Tiger Island Light. — A fixed red light, visible all round, at an
elevation of 148 ft. above the sea, is exhibited from an octagonal tower,
painted with alternate red and white vertical stripes, on Pas-yew Isle,
the western of the three islets fronting the entrance of the River Yung. A
gong is sounded during foggy weather, giving five strokes in quick succession
at intervals of about one minute. The tower is 30 ft. in height. The light-
keepers' dwellings are also painted in red and white vertical stripes.

YUNG RIVER has its entrance fronted by three islets, called the Yew
Islands or Triangles, which form three passages into the river. The town
of Chin-hai is built close to the S.W. side of Citadel Hill, on the western
side of the entrance to the river, of which it is the maritime town. From
Chin-hai the river trends in a S.W. and West direction for 11 miles to Ning-
po fu, and is about 2 cables wide, with depths varying in mid-channel from
5 to 2 fathoms. Vessels of 17 ft. draught can proceed up to the city from
Chin-hai at springs, at half-tide, and anchor off either face of the foreign
settlement. European pilots can be obtained at Chin-hai. The Yung sepa-
rates into two branches at Ning-po.

NING-PO is situated at the point where the two branches of the river join,
the city walls extending along the river side up both branches. It was
thrown open to foreign commerce by the treaty of Nanking in 1842. It
is situated in Chekiang, the smallest of the eighteen provinces of China,
which occupies the southern and terminal portion of the great central
plain. Within the limits of Chekiang, which enjoys a favourable climate
and varied soil, all the most celebrated staples of China are produced,

NING-PO-DIEECTIONS. 1099

besides the advantage of means of intercommunication, natural and ar-
tificial. Silk, tea, cotton, rice, dye-stuff's, drugs, and minerals (including
iron and coal) are among its principal natural productions. The importance
of Ningpo has rapidly increased of late years. Nearly four-fifths of the whole
foreign trade is done through Shanghai.

The advantage of Ningpo over Shanghai as a place of residence for Euro-
peans is its proximity to the sea, and the neighbourhood of numerous hilly
regions, where pure air and moderate temperature can always be enjoyed.

Native shops established in various parts of the settlement supply fo-
reigners with provisions at prices more moderate than at Shanghai. Game
is plentiful during the winter, and fish, including mackerel, is obtained of
superior quality and in great abundance.

Tides. — At Chin-hai it is high water, full and change, at IP 20"", and
springs rise 12 J ft. At Ning-po fu it is high water at l"" 0", and springs
rise 9 ft.

DIRECTIONS.— A vessel bound from Ting-hai Harbour, Chusan, to the
Eiver Yung, should, after clearing the Bell Channel, steer W. by S. for
Just-in-the-Way, recollecting that the S.E. face of that islet is foul, and that
a reef extends a cable's length from Insular Point, the North extreme of
Tygosan. As before stated, if the tide should fail, there is fair anchorage
to the S.E. of Just-in-the-Way. From hence the peak of Tower-hill Island in
line with Insular Point will lead southward of the rocks ofi" Alligator Point,
after which keep over towards the Kintang shore, until well past the Dead-
man, or until Beacon or Look-out HiU at the eastern point of entrance to
the Eiver Yung is in line with the citadel "W.S.W., which will lead north-
ward of the Blonde Eock, and southward of the 2|-fathom patch lying S.E.
by S. 6 cables from the North end of Tse-le.

A notice from the Chinese authorities, dated May, 1874, states that a
conical buoy, surmounted by a red cage, elevated 11 J ft. above the water-
line, is moored in Qh fathoms, 90 ft. N. by W. from the peak of Sesostris
Roch, with Tiger Island flagstaff W. f S. and Seaou-yew Island summit
N.E. I N. Should this buoy not be in position, it will be prudent for a
stranger before entering the Eiver Yung, if unable to obtain a pilot, to mark
the Sesostris Eock by a boat. It will also be advisable to examine the en-
trance of the river, which may have changed since the survey.

The Yew Islands, as before stated, form three passages into the Yung
Eiver. The eastern passage is between the islands and Look-out Hill, the
East point of entrance, and the first danger in it is the Nemesis Rock, which
lies E. by N. f N. a quarter of a mile from the summit of Ta-yew, and is
covered at half-flood. By keeping Pas-yew open of the South point of Ta-
yew, this danger will be avoided.

Having passed the East point of Ta-yew, keep it and Seaou-yew aboard,
to avoid the Sesostris Eock, with only 8 ft. on it, lying in mid-channel, until

1100 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Peak Islet (a remarkable rock on the East side of the riyer opposite the
of the rock.* From the rock the Friendly Islands (7 miles N.W. of Chin-
hai) are in one with Talung Island (a high bluff island beyond it) bearing
N.W. i W.

Having cleared the Sesostris, steer to pass between half and 1^ cable
southward of Pas-yew, and then for the point under the citadel, taking care
that the tide does not set the vessel over to the eastern bank of the river,
where the water shoals to 2 fathoms at half a mile off shore.

The middle passage, or that between Seaou-yew and Pas-yew, is pro-
bably the best of the three. A mud spit, the extremity of which is marked
by a Hack buoy, extends north-westerly l^ cable from the "West end of
Seaou-yew, and shoal water, 3 fathoms, some distance beyond it, but this
bank will be avoided by keeping the citadel open westward of the West end
of Pas-yew until a small hill on the southern shore bears S. by E. \ E.,
which is the leading mark through ; then steer as before so as to pass south-
ward of Pas-yew.

The passage between Pas-yew and Chung Point under the Citadel, has 2
fathoms in it at low water, and is the broadest and best for small vessels
when the tide has risen sufficiently high for them to enter ; the only danger
being the Tiger's Tail Roch, which covers at high tide, and lies rather more
than a cable N.W. ^ N. from the summit of Pas-yew, with the S.E. foot of
the Citadel Hill in line with Cone Hill, bearing S.S.W. | W. ; the rock is
now marked by a beacon, of iron, surmounted with a cage. Chung Point is
steep-to on its East side, and vessels will find good shelter under the fort.

Fishing stakes are moored to the West side of Peak Island in deep water.
The bend of the river above Chin-hai is often rendered most difficult to
navigation by the immense number of junks at anchor there or dropping
with the tide. The passage between them is left so narrow that the greatest
caution is necessary to avoid collision. Above Chin-hai, keep mid-channel,
giving the points a good berth. Vessels drawing 12 ft. water should go up
on the flood, as they are liable to take the ground in many places.

The Coast from Chin-hai trends in a N.W. direction, and is fronted by a
mud bank, which dries at low water for nearly three-quarters of a mile from
the sea embankment, and is steep-to. At the distance of 7 miles from Chin-
hai, and three-quarters of a mile from the shore, is a group of five islets,
named Friendly Islands, inside of which there was shelter in 3 fathoms at the
time of the survey, but the water is said to be shoaling fast. Take care,
when rounding the West end of the largest islet, to avoid a spit extending
3 cables to the S.E. from it.

* The merchant barque Moltan is said to have struck on a rock having 9 ft. on it and 18
feet close-to, lying with Friendly Island just showing northward of Pas-yew, and the
northern extreme of Look-out Hill bearing East.

MIDDLE GEOUND— SESHAN ISLANDS. 1101

At 4 miles to the N.W. is Talung Island, a high bluff, 920 ft. high, form-
ing the southern horn of the Tsien-tang estuary, or Hang-chu Bay.

Caution. — From Talung the coast trends more to the westward, and for
upwards of 30 miles is fronted by a dangerous mud bank, which, at the
distance of 8 miles from Talung, dries 7 miles off shore, and on its edge are
some small knolls. The Kite transport was lost upon this bank in 1840, the
tide, which here begins to increase its velocity to 6 knots at the springs,
turning her over the moment she tailed on it.

Middle Ground. — N. by W. 3 J miles from Tse-le Island is a Middle
Ground, with less than 2 fathoms on it, to avoid which vessels, in proceeding
to the northward from the Eiver Yung, must keep over towards the Kin-
tang shore, and, if drawing 18 feet water, should not bring Tse-le to the
southward of S.S.W. There is a passage to the southward of this Middle
Ground for vessels of 15 ft. draught, but there are two patches, on which
H.M.S. Contest grounded, lying in a N.W. direction from Tse-le, one with
12 ft. on it at 9 cables, and the other with only 5 ft. at 2^ miles from the
island.

Nanho or South Island, bearing N. | W. HJ miles from Tse-le, is the
outer and largest of the first group of islands met to the westward when
steering to the northward from Chin-hai ; it is flat-topped, 216 ft. above the
sea, three-quarters of a mile in extent East and West, and cultivated. As
the water deepens close around this island to 26 and 32 fathoms, vessels
cannot anchor near enough to get shelter, but the holding ground is good.
About half a mile North of it is a small rock which always shows.

West Stork is a small islet lying W. J N. 3f miles from Nanho, and
there are 8 and 9 fathoms water between them.

Seven Sisters Islets, 2 miles farther West, lie North 9 miles from Talung
Island, and although small, will afford shelter from northerly winds. The
channel between them and the dangerous mud bank just described, is 4
miles wide, and the depth in it varies from 6 to 2 fathoms, shoaling towards
the bank. A reef shows at low water, at half a mile N.N.W. of the
western islet ; and a shoal of 2 to 3 fathoms extends 4 miles north-westward
from it.

Seshan Islands form three distinct groups. East Seshan, the easternmost
group, lies North 18 miles from Nanho Island, and consists of one island
about 400 ft. high, with six islets around it. Middle Seshan Island, lying 6
miles W.N. W. of East Seshan, is the largest of a straggling group consisting
of eight other islets, the southernmost of which is a small rock nearly awash,
at nearly 4 miles S.E. of the highest ; the western islet. House Islet, is an
abrupt cliff with a house on its summit. Neither of these two groups are
sufficiently large to afford shelter ; but fair anchorage will be found in the
neighbourhood of the three islets forming the West Seshan group, at 10 miles
W.N.W. from Middle Seshan Island.

1102 EIVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Fog Islets. — In the centre of Hang-chu Bay, at 14 miles W.S.W. of Mid-
dle Seshan Island, are five low rocky islets, the depth of water about which
is 5 to 6 fathoms.

CHAPU is a town of considerable importance, standing in a bight on the
North shore of Hang-chu Bay, 17 miles S.W. of West Seshan. It is the
port of Hang-chu fu. It will be readily known by the hills in its vicinity,
as well as by the islets which protect the roadstead ofi" it from the eastward ;
on the eastern of these islets is a remarkable white house.

Vessels steering for this roadstead should round the southern islet at about
a quarter of a mile, and haul up for the houses which will be seen westward
of the hills. The anchorage is sheltered from E.N.E. to S.S.W. ; but the
tide runs 5 knots at springs, and the rise and fall is 25 ft. The mud dries
half a mile from high-water mark, is steep-to, and the lead gives no warn-
ing. At 4 miles southward of the southern islet is a shoal on which the
ship Bentinch tacked in 3 fathoms, and where there is probably less water ;
should the tide therefore set vessels in this vicinity, it will be prudent to
anchor.

Wan-tao-Tcwan is situate in a small bay westward of the second point of
land, about 20 miles south-westward of Chapu. Off the point are two small
islands, between which and the point is a narrow passage, carrying 4 to 5
fathoms at low water, but which can only be passed through at slack water
on account of the extraordinary velocity of the tide.

When hound northward from the River Yung, endeavour to leave with the
first of the flood, and when northward of Tse-le Island, if drawing more than
18 ft., do not bring that island southward of S.B.W., then in line with Look-
out Hill, to avoid the Middle Ground. In working up for the East Seshan
group some casts of 3| and 4 fathoms were obtained with the eastern islet
N. by E. 8 miles ; it is therefore advisable that vessels of large draught
should not stand into Hang-chu Bay unless bound for Chapu Eoad, in which
case pass about 3 miles southward of East Seshan, and steer for the South
islet of the Middle Seshan group. After passing "West Seshan the low land
on the North side of Hang-chu Bay will be seen, and to the southward the
Eog Islets, a group of five low rocky islets, bearing W. by S. J S. 14 miles
from Middle Seshan, the depth about them being 5 and 6 fathoms.

If bound for the Yang-tse keep eastward of the Seshan Islands, steering
between East Seshan and Eugged Islands. The tides in the vicinity of the
Volcano Islands will be found to have increased their velocity, the flood
setting W.N.W., the ebb E.S.E. Eugged Islands afford shelter in both
monsoons, but the tides set strong through them. From thence steer to pass
on either side of the Hen and Chicks, recollecting;the 10-ft. shoal; it will
be prudent, if the vessel is of large draught, to pass eastward of Gutzlaff
Island, as a bank of only 2^ fathoms water is said to extend a mile from its
western side.

THE YANGTSE KIANG. 1103

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Seshan Islands at IP
45". and springs rise 14 ft. ; at the Fog Islands in Hang-chu Bay at the
same time, and the rise is 17 feet ; in Chapu Eoad at noon, and the rise is
25 feet.

The tidal stream increases in strength as Hang-chu Bay is approached ;
near Nanho Island and the Volcano group the flood runs W. by N., and the
ebb E. by S. sometimes 3 knots, and in light winds, unless great care is
taken, vessels are liable to get entangled among the Dunsterville or Volcano
groups. At the Fog Islands, the rate increases to -i^ knots, at Chapu to 5
knots ; and in the S.W. part of Chapu Bay to 7 knots, with a rise of 35 ft.
At 25 miles above Chapu, the tide was found to run 11 knots at springs, and
8 knots at neaps, with a rise and fall of 40 ft. In the vicinity of East Seshan,
and of the Rugged group, the flood runs 2J and 3 knots ; South of Gutzlaff
the first of the flood makes to the southward of West.

HANG-CHU FIT, the capital of the province of Chehkiang, stands on a
plain about 2 miles from the North bank of the River Tsien-tang, 20 miles
above its entrance, and 80 miles from the sea. The tide rises 6 or 7 feet
opposite the city, and it is said about 30 ft. within its entrance. Captain
Collinson, when making some explorations of its mouth in Hang-chu Bay,
in order to ascertain the practicability of an approach to Hang-chu fu, found
the tide to run llj knots an hour. The peculiar phenomenon of the eagre
occurs ofi" the city, the first of the flood coming up in a huge smooth wave, 6
to 12 ft. in height. The southern termination of the Gi'and Canal is at
Hang-chu fu, but it has no opening into the river ; there is also continuous
water communication with Shanghai.

THE YANGTSE KIANG.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— This noble stream, which ranks first amongst
the rivers of the Old world, and next only to the Amazons and Mississippi
in the New, is alike the most useful and important of the rivers of China,
and constitutes one of the chief elements in the prosperous development of
its commerce ; whilst it has also become, during the short period that has
elapsed since its opening to foreign navigation, a highway of the highest
importance to European trade. Its sources, though hitherto unvisited by
scientific explorers, are known to exist among the mountains of Tibet, on the
eastern side of those ranges, from the western declivities of which the Brah-
maputra and the great rivers of Burmah and Siam take their rise ; whence
the river, called the Muhlusu, flows in a south-easterly direction for upwards
of 1,000 miles, and being joined by a large tributary, the Yalung Kiang in
Yunnan, it turns suddenly to the N.E. and East through the central regions

1104 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

of the Chinese empire, traversing its entire breadth in a course, inclusive of
its windings, of fully 3,000 miles, from the remote province of Sz'chuen to
the Eastern Sea, and discharges itself at a point 1,900 miles in a direct line
from its source.

Nearly 1,800 miles of the river have now been surveyed, or two-thirds of
its entire length, viz., 200 miles from the sea to Nanking, by the British
fleet in 1842 ; 400 miles farther to Hankow, by the expedition accompany-
ing His Excellency the Earl of Elgin in 1858 ; thence 124 miles to Yohchau
on the Tung-ting lake, by that under Vice- Admiral Sir James Hope in 1861 ;
and further explored for 1,100 miles to Pingshan in the province of Yunnan,
in long. 104° 25' W., by the enterprising traveller Captain Blakiston, R.A.,
and his party, March to June, 1861, 360 miles of which has been subse-
quently surveyed, as far as Kwei-chau fu in lat. 31° N,, long. 109° 34' E.,
by Sub-Lieutenants L. S. Dawson and F. J. Palmer, R.N., in April, 1869.

Hankow is the highest port on the Yangtse at present open to navigation
by foreign vessels, but it is said that sea-going steamers could reach the city
of Ichang, 950 miles from the mouth of the river.

TREATY PORTS.— The treaty ports on the Yangtse at present open to
foreign commerce are four, viz., Shanghai, Chinkiang, Kiukiang, and Han-
kow, at the respective distances of 60, 193, 480, and 600 miles from the sea.
Consular Officers are stationed at these ports, at each of which is a concession
for the residence of foreigners. Nanking, although not at present open as
a treaty port, is nevertheless specified in the Treaty of Tientsing among the
river ports to be eventually thrown open, and now may be, at any time,
under " the most favoured nation" clause.

Rise and Fall of the River. — The Yangtse is subject to great periodic
changes of level. It has been thus described : — " The waters begin to rise
early in the year (February or March), and attain their highest level in
July or August, at which season the higer portions of the river assume the
appearance of an immense lake, by the inundation of the low lands. No
banks are visible ; junks and boats of all descriptions are seen sailing over
what in the chart is dry land. At many parts between Nanking and Han-
kow, it exceeds 20 miles in breadth, and sometimes no land can be seen
from the deck on either side as far as the bases of the distant bills bounding
the horizon, on which the sun is seen to set. The houses to the very roofs
are under water, and for miles only the roofs and trees are visible, the inha-
bitants of the villages encamping on the hills till the waters recede. At the
end of January the river is at its lowest level, and that to which the sound-
ings on the Admiralty charts refer. The height of the summer above the
winter levels may be considered to be for Nanking 12 ft., Kiukiang 30 ft.,
and Hankow 40 to 50 ft. At Kiukiang, the rise was 21 ft. between March
and June, at Yohchau 20 ft.
In the months of September and October the river is not difficult to

THE YANG-TSE KIANG. 1105

naviVate, if proper care and caution are employed, the water being then
many feet higher than its winter level. In September it commences to fall,
and in November and December sinks very rapidly eight or ten inches a
day, on account of which these two latter months are considered the most
difficult period for navigation, for the bed of the river becomes altered by
the summer inundations and rapid currents, so that if a vessel having
touched the ground be not floated off at once, there is great probability of
her remaining agi-ound until the water rises in the ensuing spring. It is,
therefore, deemed imprudent to attempt the navigation of the river at this
season without a pilot.

The latest information is to the effect that the Admiralty charts are suffi-
ciently correct to enable a gun-vessel drawing 8^ ft. water, to proceed from
Chinkiang to Hankow, at the season when the river was lowest, without a
pilot. Small steamers may take all the short cuts from June until the time
the waters commence to fall.

The most constant part of the river is the entrance of the Southern chan-
nel, for beyond some slight extension of the bar seaward, no alteration of
any consequence has taken place within 30 years ; but the character of the
same channel higher up, between Kintoan and the mouth of the Wusung
River, which latter is 40 miles from the entrance, has no permanency what-
ever, and of late years has been subject to many changes, which have re-
sulted in considerable deterioration, caused mainly by the opening out of a
deep channel North of the Tungsha Banks.

The Estuary of the Yangtse is 70 miles broad from North to South. Its
delta, 60 miles in extent, is divided into two almost equal portions by the
main stream of the river, the northern part of which, Tsung-ming Island, is
82 miles long in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, 5 to 10 miles broad, and
is stated to be the largest alluvial island in the world, containing a popula-
tion of about half a million, although in the 14th century it did not exist
above water. There is said to be a large city on the island, but it is not
visible from the sea.

The Tungsha Banks lying south-eastward of Tsung-ming form the southern
portion of the delta. These banks are rapidly growing up, and two new
islands which appeared in 1862 are still increasing in size, one. Grass Island^
being about 2 miles, and the other, House or Dry North Jslatid, 12 miles to
the S.E. of Block House, the only island previously existing. In 1869 five
new islands were discovered to have grown up along the northern edge of the
Tungsha on the borders of the main channel ; and Tsung-ming has also
extended eastward about 6 miles since 1842.

The Yangtse enters the sea by three channels, of which two only are
navigable ; these are the North Entrance, now quite unknown, and used only
by junks; the Main Channel, by which the waters of tiie river are now dis-
I. A. 7 s

1106 RIYEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

charged North of Shaweishan Island, and which of late years has greatly
increased in depth and volume, and now is reported to be the best ; and the
South Channel, which has heretofore been the only one ajffording a sufl&cient
depth of water for navigation by foreign sea-going vessels, as it is also the
nearest and most convenient approach to Shanghai.

Great Yangtse Bank, extending seaward in an easterly direction for 150
miles, is a vast bank of clean river sand about 30 miles in breadth. It lies
rather otf the northern entrances, and is of grey or dark speckled fine sand,
its depth varying from 17 to 20 fathoms; the surrounding bottom is chiefly
mud, or mud and sand. When more fully examined it will no doubt be a
good guide to vessels making the Yangtse from the eastward. South of this
bank, a deep water gully of from 25 to 30 fathoms runs up towards Shawei-
shan Island from the south-eastward, terminating 20 miles E. by S. of that
island. The water North of the bank is also deeper, although it shelves off
yery gradually to the north-eastward.

The breakers said to have been seen from the steamship Costa Rica, in
lat. 32° 10' N., long. 125° 3' E., have been carefully searched for, but not
found ; 25 fathoms were obtained on the spot, with even depths all round,
in a space of 15 miles square.

The North Entrance, which, in 1842, was in lat. 31° 52' N., long. 122° 0'
E,, has never been examined since that date, when it was only partially sur-
veyed. It leads into the Yangtse, North of Tsung-ming, where the river
flows into the sea by what is called the North Branch. It is exceedingly
probable that the banks and channels in this locality have entirely changed
since the survey, and on no account should vessels approach it, even in the
finest weather, under a depth of 8 fathoms.

The following notice of a buoy moored near Drinkwater Point was issued
in 1877. — "A buoy, with ret? and black horizontal stripes, surmounted by a
black globular cage, has been moored in the North channel in 5^ fathoms at
low water springs, 15 J miles W. | N. from the Shaweishan Lighthouse.
Entering by this channel, when 3 miles from the lighthouse, bring it to bear
E. 5 N., and keep it so until you have increased the distance to 8 miles, then
steer directly towards the buoy."

The MAIN or SHAWEISHAN CHANNEL.— In 1842 the waters of the
Yangtsee divided at Bush Island, the greater part fiowing through the
southern channel, which then carried a good depth of water, but of late
years the latter has been filling up owing to the diversion of the greater
body of water to the northward of Bush Island, which has had the effect
of altering entirely the features of the unnavigable mass of swatchways
and shallows which formerly existed in the space between Tsung-ming and
TuDg-bha, and scouring out a deep, broad, direct channel, which, fortunately
for navigation, emerges at Shaweishan Island. This channel, when exa-
iuined by ^Captain Charles Forbes, E.N., in 1869, was found to have a uni-

THE YANG-TSE KIANG. 1107

form breadth of fully 3 miles, carrying a depth of 5 to 8 fatlioms in an
almost direct course to the sea, its South point of entrance being marked by
Shaweishan Island and Light, from which its bar, of 4 fathoms at low
water and one mile across, extended between 3 and 8 miles W. by N. from
Shaweiahan.

To enter, pass northward of Shaweishan, taking rare to avoid a 16-feet
patch at the north-eastern extremity of the Tungsha Banks, which lies W.
by S., 2i miles from the island, after clearing which, bring Shaweishan
on an East bearing, and keep it so until 15 miles distant, when the course
may be altered to W. by N. for the next 5 miles. Tsung-ming may then
be closed, and its shore passed at the distance of a mile or two until abreast
Bush Island, but care must be taken not to overrun the above distances on
the flood, nor to dip Shaweishan Light, if at night, before hauling in for
Tsung-ming.

Shaweishan Island and Lighthouse, in lat. 31° 24J' N., long. 122° Hi' E.
and N.N.W. f W., 41 miles from North Saddle Light, is a small steep-sided
island, 190 feet high, fronting the main entrance to the Yangtse, and sur-
mounted by a lighthouse. When bearing S.S.W. it makes as a flat-topped
island with the highest part to the eastward, and when bearing West as a
peaked island. When bearing N.W. f W., distant about 5 miles, it appears
like two islands, the westernmost being the smaller. It is seldom seen when
entering the river from the southward.

A fixed light, visible all round, is exhibited from the summit of Shaweishan
Island at an elevation of 229 ft. above high water, which in clear weather
can be seen at a distance of 22 miles. The lighthouse is round, painted
black, and 55 ft. in height, and the lightkeepers' dwellings are painted
white.

Amherst Rocks, 10 ft. above high water, lie S.S.E. 17^ miles from
Shaweishan, N.W. J N. 23^ miles from North Saddle Light, and N.N.E.
^ E. 241 miles from Gutzlafi". They are a dark cluster of rocks, of which
the largest is very prominent, and when first seen always makes as a single
black rock, but should there be numerous fishing boats cruising in their
vicinity, they might not be distinguished if not on the alert.

Ariadne Rock, with 9 feet on it at low water, is apparently of the same
jagged formation as the Amherst Eocks, from which it bears W. by S. 7
miles, and South 17^ miles from Shaweishan Island. There are 5 fathoms
water close round within 30 feet of the rock. With a strong ebb tide, the
position of this danger can easily be distinguished by the commencement of
discoloured water ; the brown water resembles the shape of a comet, the
nebula being over the rock. The Amherst Rocks are well in sight from it
on a fine day, but if they be not seen, the Ariadne Rock is a great danger in
entering, particularly on the northern and western streams, fur the lead is
no guide.

1108 EIYEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Gutzlaff Island and Light, forming the southern conspicuous object at the
entrance of the Yangtse, is described on page 1096. If kept on a South
bearing it will lead up to the outer part of the bar at the entrance of the
South channel in not less than 19 feet at low water springs, and on a S. by
W. bearing in not less than 21 feet.

Cape Yangtse, forming the South point of entrance to the estuary, is 17
miles W. by N. from Grutzlaff Island. The whole coast here is very low and
quite level, having been entirely gained from the sea, and the mud dries out
half a mile at low water from the embankment. There is anchorage in 4^
fathoms southward of the cape, and fair shelter from northerly winds, unless
the wind draws well to the eastward. There was formerly a beacon on the
cape, but it has long since disappeared, and there is now no distinguishing
mark whatever.

The coast for 20 miles northward of Cape Yangtse is fronted by an exten-
sive mud bank which commences at the cape, and its eastern edge or elbow
in 2 fathoms was (in 1864) 13 miles from the shore, and 12 miles N. by W,
^ W. from Gutzlaff. From this elbow the bank trends to the N.W., and
gradually narrows up to Kintoan Beacon. It is of very soft mud, and on ita
outer part large floatirg fishing stakes in long rows, attached to nets, are
generally met with.

The SOUTH ENTRANCE of the YANaTSE, which is the recognised
channel and fairway into the river, is bounded to the southward by the
South bank, just described, and to the northward by the southern edge of
the Tungsha Banks, and the shallows extending therefrom in the Erection
of the Ariadne and Amherst Rocks.

The Outer Bar, about 5, narrowing to 3, miles in breadth and 8 or 9 in
length, has, according to the Admiralty survey of 1864, not less than 20 feet
least water at its outer part, nor less than 18 feet at its inner end, 3 milea
below the light-vessel ; but seldom will so little be found, and although it
has extended seaward since 1842, the alteration is almost imperceptible.

The Tungsha Lightvessel, painted red, is moored in 3| fathoms at low
water in the entrance of the river, at the inner part of the bar, under the
North bank. She has one mast, surmounted by a 10 ft. black ball. She
exhibits a hright revolving light, giving flashes at half minute intervals, ele-
vated 40 ft. above the sea, which in clear weather can be seen 11 miles. Her
position is in lat. 31° T 20" N., long. 122° 1' E., with Gutzlafi" S. by R | E.,.
Shaweishan N.E. by N., and Kintoan Lighthouse N.W. by W. J W.

A gun will be fired from her to attract attention when vessels are observed
running into danger, and the course which should be steered will be sig-
nalled by the Commercial Code. In foggy weather a Steam Fog-horn will b©
sounded at intervals of 10 seconds. When necessary to lower the lantern for
trimming, a small light will be hoisted and a flash light burned.

Kintoan Lighthouse, 70 ft. high, and painted black, is erected on the south-

THE YANG-TSE KIANG. 110»

em shore of the Yangtse, N.W. by W. -J W. 16i miles from the Tungsha
Lightvessel. No light has been shown from it since the lightvessel wa8
established.

KINTOAN LIGHTVESSEL, placed in position in March, 1 878, is moored
in mid-channel N.E. of Kintoan Lighthouse. She is painted red, and shows
a. fixed hright light at 35 ft. above the sea, visible II miles off. A bright light
is shown at her forestay to show in which direction she is riding.

A Fog-lell, weighing 10 cwt., is sounded on the Kintoan Lightvessel in
foggy weather. It will be struck th7'ee double blows every minute ; the interval
between the blows in each pair will he five seconds, and between two succes-
sive pairs of \Aows fifteen seconds.

If the lightvessel should be driven from her station to one where she would
not serve as a guide to shipping, the usual light will not be exhibited, but a
fixed red light will be shown from the bow and stern. By day, the globe
will be struck as soon as possible, and until struck a red flag will be shown
above it.

Kintoan Small Beacon and Light.— This beacon is a wooden tripod, 40 ft.
in height, and situate 5 miles N.W. \ W. from Kintoan lighthouse. It
carries dk fixed light showing white over the channel to the south-eastward, or
between the South shore and the bearing of E. by S. | S., and red across
the channel towards Blockhouse Shoal, between the same bearing and S. by
W. 5 W. The white light is visible 6 miles, and the red light 4 miles. The
light is elevated 32 ft.

Beacon Spit, said to have disappeared in 1871, is a 3 fathoms patch in the
centre of the fairway, East of Kintoan Lighthouse, and a little detached from
a 3 fathoms spit, which in 1869 was growing out from the South bank. The
channel was further narrowed to less than a mile by a similar spit extending
from the North side. The Kintoan Bar which first appeared in 1862, N.E.
by E. of the lighthouse, appears to be extending both ways, and the channel
to be deteriorating. The new lightvessel however is a good guide.

The Tungsha Bank, forming the North side of the South or fairway-
channel, is rapidly growing up. Its south-eastern spit, which borders the
entrance and Outer Bar, extends about 8 miles eastward of the lightvessel,
with a depth of 13 to 16 feet, and it may be cleared by not bringing the
lightvessel to the westward of W. by N. ^ N. The south-western edge uf
the bank is extremely irregular, and being steep-to should be approached
with caution ; it forms a complete breakwater to the channel, which afl'ords
secure anchorage everywhere in ordinary weather.

House Island, formed on the Tungsha Bank, has extended considerably,
and is now a leading feature on the North. The house on the eastern part
of this island bears East 9 miles from Kintoan Beacon, ond N.W. | N., 9 J
miles from the outer lightvessel ; the bank extending from the West side is
steep-to, and should be approached with great caution. The bank is evi-

1110 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

dently growing to the S.E. from this island, for where the survey of 1842
gives 3? fathoms, there are now only 10 feet.

Block House Island is N. by W. ^ W. 6i miles from Kintoan Lighthouse,
and N.W. by W. ^ W. 10 miles from House Island. It is covered with
grass and low bushy trees, and is becoming larger every year. To the
eastward about 3 miles is Grass Island, lately formed, and three others to
the northward. It is probable that in a few years these will become
united, and Grass Island and House Island become connected.

Block House Shoal. — The navigable channel between Kintoan Lighthouse
and Block House Island has for some years past undergone a series of im-
portant changes, the latest formation being Block House Shoal, a middle
ground of 6 ft. water, 7 miles in extent, the South point of which (marked
by a buoy is N.E. by N. of the lighthouse. The channel northward of the
shoal is not now navigable, whilst the fairway which lies between it and the
South shore, and which in 1869 first became narrowed to less than half a
mile, is reported to be filling up. There is no permancy in the chaacter of
the channel at this part, mariners must therefore trust to the pilots.

A red buoi/, 6 ft. in diameter, surmounted by a staff with a truncated, pyra-
midal cage, 12 ft. above the sea, has been moored on the S.E. extremity of
Block House Shoal, in 16 ft. at low water. From the buoy Kintoan Light-
house bears S.W. f S., and Small Beacon W.N.W. westerly.

OUTER ANCHORAGE. — In fine weather a vessel may anchor anywhere
between Gutzlaff, Amherst, and the Saddle Islands, but should always havo
one of them in sight, so as to take a good departure. It is recommended
that an anchorage should not be taken at night under the Saddle Islands,
during the N.E. monsoon, unless there are appearances of bad weather, as
it will frequently take all the daylight of the next day to work up to the
entrance. In the summer season, if bad weather is approaching, which the
barometer usually foretells, a stranger should not attempt to run in unless-
certain of getting within the bar, or making the lightvessel ; but either an
anchorage should be sought under these islands, or the vessel kept at sea or
standing off and on, as it is dangerous to enter the river when a gale is
coming on. It is preferable to anchor rather than to stand out to sea, as
the weather is sometimes thick and foggy, the tides strung, and the vessel's
position not easily ascertainable under such circumstances.

The anchorage at the Saddle Islands is dtscribed on page 1093; the best
anchorage at the Parker Group is northward of Senhouse, the south-eastern
island, in 10 fathoms; or between Senhouse and Raffles in 6 to 7 fathoms,
all the approaches being apparently steep-to.

TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in the vicinity, and eastward
of Gutzlaff Island, at 1 1*' 30"; and springs rise about 15 ft. The highest
tide occurs on the second day after lull and change. At the lightvessel at
the eiitiaucc of the Yatigtse it is high water at noon, and springs rise 16 ft.,

THE YANG-TSE KIANG.

1111

neaps 11 ft., and neaps range 7 ft. At the entrance of the Wusung Eiver
it is high water at 0^ 30" ; springs rise 15 ft., neaps 10 ft. At Shanghai it
is high water at 0'' 40'" ; springs rise 10 ft., neaps 7 ft., and neaps range 4 ft.

The tidal streams at the entrances of the Yangtse from Gutzlaff to Sha-
weishan rotate, performing one revohition (with the sun) in 12 hours. To
the southward of Gutzlaff the tides are also rotatory, but not with that regu-
larity which is observed about the Amherst Eocks. There is also reason to
beheve, although the fact has not yet been conclusively established, that they
preserve the same character some distance to seaward, and far to the north-
ward. During its revolution the direction of the stream changes about two
points every hour, excepting when veering from N.W. to N.E. about the
time of high water, and from S.E, to S.W. about the time of low water,
when the change is more rapid. The northern stream for the most part
makes and completes the flood, and the southern stream for the most part
makes and completes the ebb, although the first part of the flood is made by
the southern stream, and the first part of the ebb by the northern, called
sometimes " tide and half-tide."

In the river the streams are sharp in turning, the flood making at P 30"
after high water, and the ebb at 2^ 30" after low water. There is very little
slack, the ebb running 7 hours, and at springs attaining during that period
a distance of 24 miles. The period of greatest velocity, 5 knots, is the 5th
hour after high water. The flood runs 5 hours, and with much less strength,
seldom exceeding a velocity of 4 knots, the distance attained during the
whole tide being 16 miles.

TABLE showing the direction and velocity of the tidal streams at the entrance

of the Yangtse-kiang.

Time of

Tide.

3 Miles North
of Gutzlaflf.

Lightship at
Springs.

Lightship
Neaps.

Outside of

the
outer Bar.

Between
Shaweishan
and Amherst,

Knots.

At H.W.

W. by N. 1

N.N.W. 1|

N.N.W.

NW. 4

N.N.W. 2^

1st hour ehb

Sh.ck

North li

N. by W.

N.N.W. 3

North U

2nd

N.E.

N.E. by N. l^

N.N.E.

North li

N.E. 2

3rd „

E. by N.

E bvS. 2

EN.K.

N.E.

E.N.E. 2i

4th „

East

E.S.E. 3i

E. hv S.

East

E.bvS. 3'

5th

E. by S.

S.E.byE. 4

E.S.k

ES.E.

E.S.E, 2

bth

E S.E.

S.E. 2i

S.E.byE.

S.E.

At L.W.

S.E.

S.E. by S. 2

S.E. by S.

S.E.

South 1

1st hour flood

South

S. by E. li

S. by W.

S.S.E.

S.S.W. 3

2nd „

S.W. 3

W.S.W. 2

W. by S.

West U

S.W. 3i
W.S.W. 3h
West 3

3id

W. by S. 3i

W.N.W. 3

W.byN.

W. by N. 3

4th „

West 4

N.W.byW.3i

W.N.W.

W.N.W. 3i

0th „

W. by N. 3

N.W. 2^

N.W.byW

N.W. 4

W.N.W. 2i

6th

W.byN.U

N.W.iN. 21

N.W. by N

N.W. 4

N.W. 2

Also ut tLe Amhetst, ls<t hour flood S.E., 2nd ho\ir South, 1 knot.

1112 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

The foregoing table compiled from various sources will afford the best
guide to a knowledge of these rotary tides, and will be fovmd valuable should
it be deemed desirable or necessary to stand in and make the light ship in
thick weather. If a good departure be obtained before the outer islands or
lights are lost sight of, the entrance may be confidently steered for, provided
the course and distance run be kept corrected each hour, or oftener, by
making allowance according to the table. Perfect reliance may be placed
upon the direction of the stream, as given therein, which will seldom be a
point in error, but the rate of the stream is a matter of judgment, and though
capable of much precision, can only be correctly approximated by a careful
consideration of all the attendant circumstances.

PILOTS, — Properly qualified pilots are licensed by the harbour master of
Shanghai. No sailing directions can do away with their usefulness to the
stranger, where the safety of the vessel depends so much upon a correct
knowledge of the tides. The pilots can be obtained day or night, except
when all are distributed on board vessels, when the schooners anchor near
the lightvessel.

The cruising stations are : Outermost Station — between Leuconna Island,
Barren Islands, and East Saddle Island ; Middle Station — between North
Saddle Island, Elliot Island, and Amherst Rocks; Inside Station — from the
lightvessel to 8 miles outside.

The charges established under a code of regulations, by agreement be-
tween the Chines9 government and the foreign ministers, and which came
into force on the Ist of January, 1867, are as follows : —

For steamers or sailing vessels in tow, to or from the light-ship, for each
foot of draught, 4 taels ; for sailing vessels not in tow, to or from Gutzlaff,
5 taels, and to or from the light-ship, 4^ taels. Two-thirds of the above
rates respectively, shall be charged upon vessels proceeding from sea to
Wusung, or vice versa, instead of to Shanghai.

The Shanghai Pilot Company's schooners are known by a black hall with
number underneath in foresail and mainsail ; flag white and red horizontal.
The Mercantile Pilot Company's vessels have white hulls and the same flag,
with the word " Pilot" on mainsail.

DIRECTIONS from the Southward. — If bound to the Tangtse during the
S.W. monsoon, endeavour to make the island of Video, and having passed
eastward of it at the distance of a mile or two, steer about N. by W., making
some allowance for tide, which (although in this locality little is known accu-
rately respecting it) may be taken to set westward on the flood, and eastward
on the ebb. This course will lead 2 to 3 miles eastward of Beehive Rock, 13
miles distant, and a further run of 18 miles will bring a vessel up to the
passage between the Saddle and Parker Groups, which is the most direct
route into the Yangtse kiang. To avoid the Cairnsmore sunken rock, the
only known danger in the passage, hug the Bit Rock, from which to the

THE YANG-TSE KIANG-DIRECTIONS. 1113

Tungsha lightvessel the course is N.W. | W., close along the South bank,
and across the centre of the bar.

If preferring for any reason to pass outside the Saddle Islands, a N. by E.
course should be steered from Video, the only danger to be avoided being
Childers Rock, 4 J miles South of the south-eastern extremity of East
Saddle. The Saddles may be rounded as convenient, and after passing the
North Saddle light, it may be brought to bear astern S.E. by E. ^ E.
Easterly, the opposite course to which will lead through the fairway of the
bar up to the lightvessel.

During the N.E. monsoon, if not intending to call at Ning-po, vessels
should pass east\rard of Chusan, and enter the archipelago to the northward
of that island. It is best, however, to endeavour to make the Saddle Islands
as being the most weatherly land-fall, but if unable to fetch so far to the
northward, and the parallel of 30° N. has been reached, the high dome-
shaped island of Video, 500 ft. high, will then be a conspicuous object, for
it may be seen in clear weather about 30 miles ; it has a remarkable white
cliff, which shows when the island bears N.W. by N., and in thick weather
any cast below 30 fathoms will point out that the vessel is in the vicinity of
this or the neighbouring islands, provided she be southward of the Great
Yangtse Bank, The most remarkable land to the southward of Video is the
island of Chukea, on which there is a round-topped peak 1,164 ft. high, and
eastward of Chukea are several islets, of which Tongting, the outer one, is
about 40 ft. high, with detached reefs S.W. of it.

If unable to turn to windward, anchorage will be found on the southern
side of Ousha Island, in the entrance to the Sarah Galley Channel. If un-
able to weather the North end of Chukea, the South side of Pootoo Island
will be found the best stopping place ; the anchorage in 12 fathoms is under
the hill, with three chimneys on it ; the mud bank from the shore is very
steep, shoaling quickly from 12 to 2 fathoms. From this position, in a handy
vessel the best route will be through Lansew Bay, and through the channel
between Lansew and Tae-shan Islands ; but large vessels had better pass
eastward of Video, and enter the archipelago farther to the northward. If
unable to fetch to windward of the Barren Islands, and should the tide or
weather be unfavourable for entering the river, a convenient anchorage can
be found among the Saddle Group, which, with other available anchorages,
are described on pages 1093-4.

It may be here noticed that as the entrance of the Yangtse is somewhat
difficult for a stranger to make even in fine weather, the difficulty is greatly
increased if it be necessary to beat up against a contrary wind, especially in
bad weather ; no vessel should therefore attempt to do so without a pilot, or
unless it be sufficiently clear to ensure keeping the islands in sight until they
dip. But with a leading wind and a good departure either from Gutzlaff or
I. A. 7 e

1114 EIVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

the Amherst Rocks, together with strict attention to the course and distance
made good, a vessel may stand in for the lightvessel.

The In-shore Passage from Hong Kong to Shanghai during theN.E. mon-
soon is described on pages 9G-7.

From the Northward or Eastward. — Vessels bound into the Yangtse from
the Gulf of Pe-chili are recommended to make Shaweishan, not approaching
the coast within the depth of 15 fathoms until within 60 miles of that island,
when the water maybe shoaled to 10 fathoms with safety, by which means
there will be no difficulty in further making the Amherst Rocks in daylight.
In N.E. winds, if strongs and the thick weather which usually accompanies
them, there is a great probability of overrunning the distance owing to the
strong southerly set (notwithstanding that the tides are revolving), and so
getting to leeward, and having to work up from the Saddle Islands. Al-
though it is better to do this than incur any risk, it is suggested in such a
case that if the Amherst be not made before dark, especially if Shaweishan
or its light be not seen, the vessel should be hove-to till dawn, sufficiently
far to the northward to allow for drift and a set of a mile an hour, keeping
a careful reckoning.

In N.W. winds and fine weather, the Amherst should always be made.
In November and December, when these winds prevail, vessels from Japan
should keep well to windward, for if they are of long continuance there is
every probability of being driven to leeward of Video ; in such case, should
the weather be thick, the Great Yangtse Bank will be a good guide in ap-
proaching the entrance of the river, owing to the nature of the bottom,
which is of clean river sand.

Whether intending to enter by the main or southern channel, Shaweishan
is the best landfall to make when bound from the northward or eastward.
By keeping it on a N.N. W. bearing it will lead towards the Amherst Rocks,
which may be passed at half a mile on either side. These rocks bearing
E.N.E. astern will lead South of the Ariadne Rock, distant 7 miles from them;
when a West course may be steered till the lightvessel heaves in sight, making
allowance for the state of the tide. Should a vessel in thick weather find
herself being set over to the Tungsha Bank, she should immediately steer
South for the channel, and anchor.

The Entrance of the Yangtse in hazy weather is somewhat embarrassing,
for after the outer islands are lost sight of neither land nor marks are visible,
but in clear weather the navigation is not diflScult by day, and since the
establishment of the three fine lights on the North Saddle, Gutzlaff, and
Shaweishan Islands, it is equally easy, if not more so, at night.

Leaving the Saddle Islands, keep North Saddle bearing S.E. by E. I E.
easterly until Gutzlaff bears South, distant 16 to 17 miles, recollecting that
if Shaweishan shows plainer than GutzlaflF, the vessel is too far to the north-
ward, and in danger of entering a false channel through the Tungsha Banks,

THE YAJSTG-TSE KIANG-DIEECTIONS. 1115

5 to 7 miles northward of the fairway, and may be dangerously near to the
Ariadne Eock, in which case the Amherst Rocks will also be visible. Gutz-
lafF, 210 ft. high, when first seen, will appear like a small round lump, and
its lantern, which is mounted on a tripod, painted white, may not be visible.
Shaweishan, 196 ft. high, a little larger than Gutzlafi", and surmounted by a
lighthouse painted black, is not often seen when a vessel is in the right posi-
tion for approaching the bar and fairway.

With Gutzlaff on the above bearing and distance, if the day be clear, the
lightvessel will be visible from the mast-head (she is rarely seen beyond 7
miles from the deck), when steer for her between the bearings of W.N. W.
and N.W. to cross the bar, making due allowance for tide, the channel
course being N.W. by W. As long as North Saddle and Gutzlaff are in
sight, the reckoning should be tested frequently by cross bearings, so as to
verify the allowance made for tide, and thus give greater confidence in enter-
ing the river.

In working up from the Saddle Islands, do not bring Gutzlaff eastward of
South, until 16 miles northward of it, when it may be brought to bear
S. by E. The vessel will then be on the edge of the South Bank, and may
now stand to the westward, nearly into her own draught, bearing in mind
the direction of the streams. All vessels should keep as near as possible to
the South Bank, the edge of which, from below the lightvessel up to Km-
toan Beacon, appears remarkably even.

The foregoing directions are for vessels of about 18 ft. draught, and will
lead over not less than 20 ft. at low water springs ; small craft may close
with the South Bank when Gutzlaff bears South, distant between 12 and 15
miles, and steer up with the lead for their guide, for the edge of the South
Bank is very even and may be depended on nearly up to Kintoan beacon.
Or, having passed Gutzlaff Island, if the weather be fine, a vessel may safely
steer in with the island bearincf S. by E., astern, and this will lead over the
eastern edge of the South bank in about 15 ft. at low water, or 31 ft. at high
water springs.

Too much attention cannot be paid to the set of the streams at the entrance
of the Yangtse, and also to the lead. So long as the weather is clear, Gutz-
laff forms an admirable mark, and it has only to be kept westward of South
until it is distant 16 miles, when a vessel may steer N.W. by W. for the
lightvessel ; but in thick weather and a working breeze with a variable tide
under her lee, it is difficult to ascertain when 16 miles have been made, and
she will be liable to be horsed over to the Tungsha Banks, where several
vessels have been wrecked. These banks should always be approached with
caution, as their southern edges give no warning, unless it be by the lead
indicating hard bottom ; and, as the tide may be setting across and not into
the river, it will be as well to ascertain the vessel's true rate over the ground

1116 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

by using the deep sea lead for a ground log instead of the log-ship, and
taking the opposite to the bearing of the line as the course made good.

Whenever the ground log is not used, it is recommended to allow hourly
for the tides, both as to direction and velocity. Experience has shown that
the lightvessel can be made by following this method, always being careful
to verify the ship's position by bearings of Gutzlaff and the Saddle Islands
as long as they remain in sight. The break on the head of the Tungsha
banks will sometimes be seen after passing the Ariadne Rock, but in thick
weather the southern side of the channel is no doubt the one to border on.
At night or in thick weather the lead will be a useful guide. The bottom on
the North bank is hard mud with sparkling grains of sand, but soft in a few
places. On the South bank the bottom is soft mud with dark gray sand.

Mr. George Stanley, R.N., remarks that the nature of the bottom is very
little guide, for after six weeks' sounding, during the survey of 1864, it was
impossible to detect any diSerence between mid-channel and the North and
South banks ; the only positive difference being that sand with black specks
may be found on the Tungsha Bank, but never on the South bank. A
stranger taking it as an infallible rule, that sand with dark specks are to be
found on the North bank, would at once be in doubt if the lead showed two
or three successive casts of brown mud.

Captain Charles Gribble remarks that although there may be little or no
difiFerence in the appearance of the bottom on the North and South banks,
there is a difference in the feel of the bottom, that on the South bank being
very soft, that on the North hard.

Lightvessel to Wusung River. — The lightvessel is moored over against
the North side of the channel, off a bight in the North bank, and a mile
below is a 9-feet spit of the Tungsha, the extremity of which in 17 ft., is
half a mile E.S.E. of her. Vessels should therefore pass to the South of the
lightvessel, from which the channel course is N.W. by W. ; but if beating
up after passings the lightvessel, tack in 3i fathoms when standing towards
the South bank. The deepest water is near and along the southern edge of
the North bank, but in standing towards it do not wait for the second shoal
cast to go about. Generally the edge of the North bank is lined with heavy
fishing slakes, planted in 4 and 5 fathoms, with only a few feet water a ship's
length inside them.

The house on House Island and the lightvessel are excellent marks for
fixing a ship's position by cross bearings until Kintoan lighthouse (now dis-
used, see pages 1 108-9), is well in sight, which it will be when the hull of the
outer lightvessel is just dipping. At night bring the lightvessel astern on a
S.E. by E. bearing, and keep it so till the light dips ; this will lead well
over on the North side of the channel, but in the best water opposite Beacon
Spit, E. ^ S. from the Kiutoan lighthouse, where the channel is much cou-

WUSUNG RIVER. 1117

tracted.* Here the South shore will be plainly in sight, and the Kintoan
lightvessel (page 1109) a guide in mid-channel. When the lighthouse bears
"W. by S. steer W.N.W., so as to pass about half to three-quarters of a mile
South of the Blockhouse shoal buoy, and then stand up channel again on a
N. W. f W. course, bearing in mind that the edge of the South bank is less
steep than that of Blockhouse Shoal. As previously mentioned, the chan-
nel above Kintoan is reported to be shoaling, and the banks to be constantly
shifting, so that a stranger must trust rather to the pilots than the chart.f

At night it is preferable to hug the South shore near the lighthouse, pass-
ing it at a mile. Blockhouse Island will soon rise after passing Kintoan
lighthouse, having at first the appearance of a cluster of fishing boats, and
gradually showing itself a low island covered with bushy trees. When the
large house on this island bears North, the vessel will be in the narrowest
part of the channel, which here is only 4 cables wide.

After passing Blockhouse, the South shore, the bank of which is steep-to,
should be gradually closed lo not less than a mile, and kept at that distance
until the marks and buoy for Wusung Spit are seen, and should not be
approached under 5 fathoms. It is then necessary to keep well out into
the channel and get Paushan Pagoda, a peaked tower near the small walled
town westward of the entrance, on a W. by N. J N. bearing, which will lead
up to the Wusung River, just clearing the dangerous shelf which borders
the shore eastward of the entrance. Wusung lighthouse will also be in sight
just over the point after passing the Blockhouse Shoal, but the red light it
exhibits at night down the channel of the Yangtse is not visible more than 5
miles. If bound to Shanghai, the directions are continued on page 1120.

The WUSUNG RIVER, on which is situate, 1 2 miles from its entrance,
the great commercial port of Shanghai, is about 60 miles in length, and is
the lowest tributary of the Yangtse kiang. It flows from the lake Tien-shau
or Miau, through which is a water communication with the Grand Canal,
leading northward to the important city of Suchau, and southward to Hang-
chu fu. Its real name is the Wongpu or Hwangpu, but it has taken its
commonly received name from the small town of Wusung, situated about a

* In 1869. The only information subsequently received concerning the alterations of
the channel is contained in the following extract : — " The first sign of land will be three-
remarkable trees on the South bank of the river, 7^ miles below Kintoan lighthouse, and
marked " Clump ' on the chart. To the south-westward of House Island the spit extends
in a S.E. direction, the bottom on that side being hard. Blockhouse Shoal has extended in
a S.E. direction, and also on its S.W. side. When close to Kintoan lighthouse, keep the
South shore about three-quarters of a mile distant, and follow the trend of the land until
the red buoy on Wusung outer buoy is sighted." — H.M.S. Avon, May, 1871.

t These directions refer to the channels as they existed in Tune, 1359, and as they are
shown on the Admiralty charts.

1118 EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

mile within the entrance of the river on its left bank, and on the North side
of a creek also leading to Suchau.

The Outer Bar of the Wusung River commences about a mile from the
entrance, carrying not less than 20 ft. at low water springs, with occasional
deeper soundings, over a narrow channel between the shallow and extensive
mud flats which border both shores of the river at its mouth. The North
side of the bar channel is marked by the Spit or Wusung Buoy, on the edge
of the western shoal, about half a mile above its extremity. This is a large
red and black, vertical striped, nun buoy, 8 ft. in diameter. It lies in 21 ft.
at low water springs, with Paushan Point N.W. by W., and Wusung light-
house S.W. by W.

Vessels should cross the outer bar with Wusung lighthouse bearing
S.W. by W. ^ W., westerly, so as to avoid the dangers on either side, the
chief of which is the Lismore wreck, in 2 fathoms, on the edge of the South
flats. The channel subtends an angle of about 13|^° from the lighthouse, so
that a course on a S.W. by W. \ W. bearing of it will hug the northern
flats, and a course on a W.S. W. bearing of it the southern.

Lismore Wreck Light. — A pile lighthouse was erected in 1875 over the
Lismore wreck, and a fixed red light shown from it, but the water deepening
around the lighthouse rendered it unsafe, and in 1878 it was decided to re-
move it, and mark the wreck by a small junk, moored 200 yards North of
it, from which will be shown two lights, the upper one red, and the lower
one bright. A fog-bell was sounded during thick weather at the pile light-
house, and we presume is still used on the junk.

Wusung Light and Left Bank. — The western side of the mouth of tlie
river has a grassy embankment pierced with embrasures, with a ruin at the
point of entrance called Fort A. A quarter of a mile above Fort A i*
Wusung lighthouse, a square tower of brick, 45 ft. high, with a total height
of 58 ft. It exhibits o. fixed light, showing bright from the river bank N.W.
of the lighthouse to N. J W. ; green on the North side of the navigable
channel between N. \ W. and N.E. f E. ; bright over the navigable channel
of the entrance between N.E. f E. and E. by N. | N. ; and red over Lismore
wreck and the South side of the navignble channel between E. by N. \ N.,
and the bank of the river. It is elevated 50 ft. above the sea, and in clear
weather the white light should be seen from a distance of 12 miles, and tlie
red light, which also shows over the Yangtse to seaward, about 8 miles.
The illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of the fourth order, and the tower is
painted black.

A yellow joss house with poles about a mile above Fort A marks the
village of Wusung, situated on the northern side of the creek leading to
Suchau, and another mile up is the French coal depot and flagstaff', and just

WUSTJNG EIYER. 1119

ahovp the latter the Chinese customs' station, a conspicuous square white
building surmounted by a turret and knob, and in front of which is the
mast or signal staff, from which is exhibited, by flags and balls, the depth
of water on the inner bar. Abreast and just above the custom house is the
best anchorage for vessels intending to remain, in which case they should
moor, but quite clear of the fairway of the bar, in order to avoid the risk of
collision, as the flood tide sweeps along this shore, requiring rather a sharp
turn to be made to cross the bar. Vessels waiting for tide only to cross the
inner bar should anchor lower down off' Wusung".

The East lank of river at the entrance is very low and not approachable,
being the shallow side of the river, and bordered by mud flats, which to the
northward extend nearly a mile. Here several ships have been wrecked.
Over these flats the Wusung light shows red. At the outer point is
Fort B, a small ruin, from which upwards the margin of the shore is reedy
as far as Pheasant Point, a sharp elbow, about a mile above ; this point is
steep-to.

The Inner Bar is above Pheasant Point, and appears to be formed by the
eddy which that point causes on the flood. It presents no obstacle to vessels
drawing 11 ft. water, for the passage over it, with that depth at low water
springs, is two cables broad. But for another foot of depth the channel is
very narrow, a matter of importance to vessels of deep draught crossing.
Irs entrance is abreast or immediately above the custom house, and the lead-
ing mark for the best water, 12 ft. at low-water springs, is two poles on the
bank of the river, 1^ mile above Pheasant Point, kept in line E. f S. The
front pole is a low one, with a pyramidal top ; the back one, a little removed
from the bank, is a high pole with a rectangular top. At night a red low
light is exhibited on the river bank, with a high white light on the low pole
behind it, indicating the same line of direction. These lights are visible 2
miles in clear weather. The bar channel shifts occasionally, and varies
slightly in depth.

Any deep draught steamer requiring to cross the bar at night, may, by
making application to the officer in charge of the customs' station, arrange
to have a light hoisted on the signal staff', to show when there is water
enough for her to cross.

Inner Bar Signals. — The depth of water on the bar is shown, during day-
light, Irom the flagstaff, 100 ft. high, at the custom house. In clear weather
these signals may be seen by vessels over the land before crossing the outer
bar. The flag employed is square, half red and half white, in combination
with one or more black balls, distinguishing the depth, as follows : —

* The code (coloureJ) can be oLtained at the Harbour Master's office, Shanghai.

1120

EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Red over white, black ball under

18 feet

White next mast, no ball

15 „

Same , black ball over

23 „

Same , black ball under

16 „

^VTiite over red, no ball

19 „

Same , black ball over

21 „

Same , black ball under

20 „

Ked next mast, no ball . .13 feet.

Same , black ball over . 24 ,,

Same , black ball under .14 „

Same , balls over & under 25 „

Same , two balk under . 26 „

Eed over white, no ball . . 1 7 „

Same , black ball over . 22 „

In addition, a double cone is hoisted at the cross trees when the water is
rising.

Extending from the Inner Bar 2 miles up the river is the Middle Ground,
a shoal which divides the river into two channels, and which is rapidly in-
creasing in height. A great portion is visible at half-tide, and a considerable
patch of reeds, Gough Island, never covers. Between it and the eastern
bank of the river is the narrow ship channel leading to Shanghai. Junk
Channel, S.W. of the Middle Ground, saves half a mile in distance, but its
upper end, at the tail af the Middle Ground, is very narrow, with only 6 or
8 ft. at low water, so that it should only be taken with a rising tide.

Above the Middle Ground the banks are of the same low character as at
the entrance, and there is nothing deserving of more particular description
than can be mentioned in the subsequent directions.

Tides. — At the entrance of the Wusung Eiver it is high water, full and
change, at O*" 30™; springs rise 15 ft., neaps lOJ ft., and neaps range 6 ft.
At Shanghai it is high water, full and change, at 0*" 40"" ; springs rise 10 ft.,
neaps 7 ft., and neaps range 6 It. Vessels drawing 18 ft. can cross the
Inner Bar at any high water, but if of larger draught they will generally
have to wait for spring tides. The greatest draught ever brought up to
Shanghai was H.M.S. Imperieuse, drawing 24 ft., but a vessel of that draught
would have to wait for the springs to pass either up or downthe river.

DIRECTIONS. — As pilots are always in attendance at the entrance, it
would not be prudent for a stranger to enter Wusung River without one,
for its shoals are constantly undergoing changes from the alluvial deposits.
Approaching the entrance, a peaked tower or Pagoda near the small walled
town of Paushan, and just seen over, will be observed to the westward,
and this pagoda must be kept W. by N. ^ N. (but nothing to the northward
of that bearing) to clear the shoals off the river's mouth, until the Wusung
lighthouse is brought S.W. by W. | W. westerly, on which course vessels
should steer in over the bar by day ; at night the white light is visible over
the channel, a change to red or green denoting that a vessel is out of the
channel and in danger. In entering pass close eastward of the Wusung
buoy (leaving it on the starboard hand), for the deep-water channel here is
narrow, and composed of hard substances. After passing the Wusung buoy
on the ebb tide, it is necessary to be careful that a vessel be not set too
near the South bank, which shoals very suddenly and is rocky.

SHAN QHAI— DIRECTIONS. 1121

Standing into the river, keep well over to the western shore, and keep it
aboard as far as Wusung Creek, when a mid-channel course may be steered
rounding Pheasant Point. Vessels, except of very shallow draught, should
never be tempted by the apparent breadth and clearness of the channel to
pass on the East side of the junks, which sometimes lie thickly anchored in
the fairway below Wusung, but should pass through the midst of them or
by the western shore, which is steep-to.

As vessels of large draught are obliged to cross the Inner Bar at high
water, whilst the flood tide is still running strongly, care must be taken to
alter course in good time, say, when the beacon poles bear E. by S. h S., and
not to allow the high pole to come to the southward of the low pole, for they
are very close together. This caution applies with peculiar force to sailing
vessels, for the flood sweeps up the river and towards the Middle Ground
with great strength, 4 knots at springs and 2 knots at neaps. If intending
to wait for high water, be careful not to anchor too near the bar, and if the
vessel is of large draught, it will be better to anchor below Wusung, so as
to give plenty of time and room to turn the ship ; for with a strong flood a
vessel may be abreast the bar before her head is the right way. No vessel
of any size should attempt to pass through the junks or across the bar in
light winds if the tide is running strongly ; and it should be borne in mind
that both flood and ebb streams continue to run at least an hour after the
time of high and low water by the shore.

To cross the Inner Bar in the deepest water, 12 ft.*' at low water springs,
bring the high and low beacon poles in line (or at night the white and red
lights), E. f S., and when over the bar close the shore to three-quarters of a
cable, altering course as recjuisite so as to preserve the same distance along
the East bank of the river up to Black Point, 3 miles above Gough Island.
The narrowest part of the channel is abreast Gough Island, the dry part of
the Middle Ground, but at this part the river bank is very steep.

Blach Point, which is halfway to Shanghai, serves as a guide in passing
up the river, to ascertain the vessel's position, the banks being exceedingly
low and flat, so also does the old earthwork at the mouth of a creek a little
higher up. Here the eastern shore must be kept well aboard, as a shelf
stretches two-thirds across from the opposite side ; the creek, howeven
should not be passed within a cable. Continue along the East bank at a
moderate distance until the houses of the foreign settlement at Shanghai are
in full view, and after passing the lower wharves, if not intending to anchor
to wait for the ebb tide, edge over W. f N. towards the opposite shore,

* Vessels passing Gough Island are cautioned to keep in mid-channel as a bank has been
found to extend about half a cable off the mouth of a creek, 1,720 yards S.E. by E. \ E.
from the high beacon of the Inner Bar. In mid-channel at low water the least depth
obtained in November, 1877, was 25 feet.

I. A. 7 J>

1122 RIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

steering for the new dock well below the American Church, distinguished
by its square tower, and keep well on that side the river until Suchau Creek
opens, when the course is mid-channel, round Putung Point,

In the lower part of Shanghai Reach fishing boats constantly anchor in a
line across the river, but a passage is always kept clear for vessels. A vessel
will generally pass southward of the shipping which lie in the upper part of
this reach.

Vessels going up with the last of the flood generally anchor below the
shipping, and remain till the ebb stream makes down, which does not take
place till If hour after high water by the shore ; the flood stream makes
about an hour after low water. Steamers, therefore, or sailing vessels with
a commanding breeze crossing the Inner Bar at high water or with a rising
tide, will find the flood stream still strong in Shanghai Reach, which is often
so crowded with shipping that it would be almost impossible to pass through
without collision ; and pilots are not allowed to bring a vessel up beyond
the lower anchorage until they have ascertained from the harbour master
where her berth is to be. Tugs are now available for hire, by the employ-
ment of which the risks of collision, before so frequent, are in a great mea-
sure averted.

The space in front of the British Consulate, at the entrance of the Suchau
Creek, is generally clear of vessels, and always looks inviting, especially at
slack water, but it should be avoided, as the chow-chow water, caused by
the sharp bend of the river at Pootung Point, renders this locality insecure
as an anchorage. The holding ground also is indiflferent, the anchors are
liable to come home, the water is 8 to 16 fathoms deep, and a vessel is
constantly swinging round and round, so that whilst endeavouring to moor,
before the swivel can be got on, she may have taken several round turns in
her cables.

The best berths are abreast and above the Chinese custom house, along
the West bank of the river on which the city stands. The tides here run
with regularity and with less strength, and a fairway along the eastern bank
is left clear. Vessels ought to be moored with at least 36 fathoms on each
cable, and a mooring swivel should be invariably used. A heavy fine is im-
posed on vessels neglecting this precaution. It is necessary to moor taut, as
the anchors are generally found to come home after some time, and great care
must be taken in laying the anchors, especially in long ships, in order to
ensure a clear berth.

There is a regular berth appropriated for the British senior naval officer's
ship ; the mooring buoy is off the custom house in 9^ fathoms.

SHANGHAI is situate on the left bank of the Hwang-pu, 12 miles above
Wusung. Vessels of 24 feet draught can sometimes be taken up to the
settlement at spring tides, but there is no trade above Shanghai in foreign
bottoms. The port of Shanghai extends to Wusung, and the anchorage for
foreign vessels, ^ called the;j harbour, l^extends]|^f or 4 • miles down the river.

SHANGHAI— DIEECTIONS. 1123

This is under the regulation of the harbour master, an officer appointed by
the Chinese authorities, who retains a complete conservancy of the harbom*,
its dues, customs, and duties, a condition which was ratified at the Treaty of
Tientsing in 1858. The harbour is divided into nine sections (from Upper
Limit, about a mile above Suchau Creek, where a mark is placed defining
the foreign boundary), in which vessels lie tbree abreast, and lettered ac-
cording to their positions.*

Shanghai, it is well known, is the most important centre of foreign com-
merce in China. It has risen within a quarter of a century from the insig-
nificant rank of a third-class city to the fame and wealth of one of the chief
commercial emporia of the world. It was always a considerable place of
trade, from the fact of its being the nearest seaport to the great city of Su-
chau on the Grand Canal, 45 miles to the westward. Situated on the delta
of the Yangtse, and having water communication with the whole empire,
its site is most commanding. Its name signifies " Upon the Sea," and
although it is now 25 miles from the coast, Chinese annals state that it was
once upon the seashore, and the low land which now intervenes has been
gradually formed by alluvial deposits. For 50 miles around the city there is
water communication with the interior in every direction by the numerous
creeks which intersect the neighbouring plain.

The foreign settlement is entirely distinct from the native city in its boun-
daries, government, and commerce. The French concession is northward of
and contiguous to the city. The British concession, which includes all the
other European communities and consulates, lies between the Yang-king
Pang and the Suchau Creek, and here stands the British consulate, a large
square building near the bridge which crosses the latter creek.

The quay along the river side in front of the palatial residences of the
foreign consuls and merchants, nearly a mile in length, is called the Bund,
in the centre of which, recognisable by its Chinese architecture, is the cus-
tom house, presided over by the foreign inspectorate. In this building are
the offices of the harbour master, and of the engineer who has the superin-
tendence of all matters connected with lights, buoys, beacons, &c. The cus-
tom house possesses the only wharf at this part of the settlement where
cargo boats can load or discharge at all times of tide.

The American concession, locally known as Hongkew, extends a mile up
the lower bank of Suchau Creek and along the river side eastward, where
are situate two of the principal docks, the Sailors' Home, and many of the
leading firms of Shanghai. The Pootung side of the river opposite the
settlement is also common to all foreigners. At the point is a look-out
house 130 ft. high ; the British cemetery is a little below, and above is the

* Thus: — S Shantung side, C centre, P Putung side, O L outside limit; a list is pub*
lished daily in the Shipping Gazette, so that any vessel in the river can be easily found.

1124 ErVEE MIN TO SHANGHAI.

large engineering establishment of Messrs. Muirhead & Co., and the finest
dock in Shanghai.

Time Gun. — A gun is ordinarily fired from the senior naval ofiicer's ship
at mean noon precisely, a red and white triangular flag being previously
hoisted. Vessels can also have their chronometers rated by various firms on
shore. The best observing place is the British Consulate, near the flagstaff,
in lat. 31° 14' 42" N., long. 121° 28' 55" E.

Docks. — There are three large docks at Shanghai. Two of them, docks A
and B, also known as the Old and New Docks, lie at Hongkew,* on the left
bank of the river, about half a mile apart. They belong to the Shanghai
Dock Company, and their dimensions and depth of water are as follows :—

Dock ^—Length over all, 374 ft. ; breadth, 60 ft. ; depth over sill at
springs, 18 ft. ; depth over sill at neaps, 13 ft. Boch B — length over all,
385 ft. ; breadth, 52 ft. ; depth over sill at springs, 14 ft. ; depth over sill at
neaps, 9 ft. Every appliance for repairing iron or wood vessels and machi-
nery is on the premises.

Muirhead's Dock is on the Pootung side, opposite the city. Its dimen-
sions are, length over all, 380 ft. ; length on blocks, 340 ft. ; Width at top,
125 ft. ; width of dock entrance, 75 ft. ; depth on sill at springs, 21 ft. ;
depth on sill at neaps, 16 ft.

There is also a complete engineering establishment attached, where all
repairs of vessels and machinery can be effected.

Trade, Supplies, &c. — Independently of an enormous traffic in general
merchandise, the characteristic feature of Shanghai is the export of silk, for
which staple this is the main entrepot, and since the opening of the Yangtse,
the trans-shipment of tea brought down from Hankow by steamer or of im-
ports and Chinese produce for the various river and northern ports cause a
great concentration of foreign shipping here.

Shanghai toater is very impure and sometimes brackish, containing a large
q^uantity of organic matter, and its use is a fertile source of sickness to the
crews of vessels. If obliged to use it, the grosser particles may be precipi-
tated by a small quantity of powdered alum. Water is sometimes procured
from the Ta-hoo lakes and sent on board for 5s. a ton. If good water cannot
be procured in the hot season, condensed water should be used if cholera is
prevalent.

Provisions are plentiful and moderately cheap, and the markets are well
supplied with beef, mutton, game, fish and poultr3\ Vegetables are con-
sidered unsafe articles of diet, in consequence of sprinkling them during
cultivation with liquid manure, and the fruit is of poor quality ; for these
rice is the best substitute.

* Also spelt Honque.

SHANGHAI— CLIMATE. 1125

Coals for men-of-war are sent alongside from the naval store in lighters
and put aboard by coolies under contract with the Chinese.

The general hospital is on the French Bund. Seamen are received into
the third class wards at a charge of 1-| Mexican dollars per day, which
covers all expenses necessary for medical treatment. For the two higher
classes of wards 1^ and 3 taels per day are charged respectively.

CLIMATE. — The advantage enjoyed by Shanghai from its position in the
temperate zone of China is in a great measure neutralised by its low-lying
site, scarcely raised above the level of the river, aud exposed to noxious
marshy exhalations.

Crews of ships stationed at Shanghai suffer both from the malarial in-
fluences of the climate and the impurity of the water, especially in the
hot season, when fever, dysentery, and cholera generally prevail, at which
time precautionary measures are found to be instrumental, in a great de-
gree, in staving off fatal results. Frequently, under double awnings, the
temperature rises to 95° by day, remaining above 85° during the night, and
at midsummer, for a period of two to three weeks, it often rises much
higher. This is the most trying period, and many cases of sunstroke then
occur. In July, 1863, the native population were dying of Cholera at the
rate of one thousand a day, It is therefore of the highest importance that
officers in command should be prepared to adopt needful precautions.
Properly filtered water is indispensable to health, and when mixed with
oatmeal, for drinking purposes, has been found to be very beneficial. Rigid
attention to diet should be strictly observed, excesses of every kind being
in the highest degree prejudicial. There is published in the " Treaty Ports
of China," page 394, from the pen of the late Dr. Henderson, an article on
health, which contains most valuable refiections on that important subject,
the preservation of health in China, which is well worthy the perusal of
officers stationed at the ports. Without entering into particulars it may be
stated that not more than half the amount of food is required to sustain the
vital energies in the hot months as during the cold, that then the food can-
not be too simple, and that extreme moderation in, almost abstention from,
the use of fruit and vegetables in season is necessary, indulgence in them
being incompatible with health, rice being quite sufficient for all piu'poses of
nutrition. During summer and autumn the power of the digestive organs
is weak, and a moderate indulgence in stimulants is requisite, but iced
drinks during meals are very injurious. Tea is far too little used ; it has a
gently stimulating influence, and is not followed, as in the case of alcoholic
drinks, by a corresponding depression. It is tonic and astringent, and its
use and that of coffee excite respectively the nervous and cerebral functions.
But above all things, after a lengthened stay, change to a more bracing
climate is essential to the due preservation of health

1126

EIVER MIN TO SHANGHAI.

Winds and Weather. — By a meteorological register kept at Shanghai, the
prevailing winds from 1848 to 1854 appear to have been as follows : —

January - N.E. to N.N.W. and

generally N.N.W.
February - N.E. to N.W. and

generally N.W.
March - N.E. to S.E. and vari-
able.
April - E.N.E. to S.E. chiefly

S.S.E. and variable.

May - - E.S.E. to S.S.E.

June - - S.E. to S.S.E.

July and August S.S.E.

September - N.E. to E.

October - - N.E. to N.W.

November - N.W. and variable.

December - N. to N.W.

January is in general fine at Shanghai. In February, thick fogs occur.
March is damp and disagreeable. April has more rainy days than any
other month, except June, which is the wettest month. In May there is
but little rain, and that little occurs in heavy showers. July is hot, dry,
scorching, with considerable rain in the form of evening thunder-showers.
July and August are the hottest months. In September the S.W. monsoon
is wholly broken up, and the temperature is very changeable. In November
the winter fairly sets in, the first frost appearing from the 12th to the 20th.
December is the driest month of the year, and the weather clear and
freezing, though foga are of occasional occurrence. In May, June, and
July fogs also occur.

The summer gales are strongest from the S.E., and generally give good
notice, the barometer beginning to fall sometimes as much as 24 hours pre-
viously. The rules for judging the barometer on the Chinese coast gene-
rally hold good for the neighbourhood of Shanghai ; a rapid fall betokens a
gale, and a high range the continuance of northerly winds. Typhoons rarely
occur. In August, 1871, one passed over travelling to the north-westward,
the greatest force of wind being 9. Commencing at N.E. the wind shifted
to W.N.W. and S.W. Many vessels afterwards arrived either totally or
partially dismasted.

WUSUNG TO HANKOW.

The navigation of the Upper Yangtse must be manifestly conducted with
much local and recent knowledge. The Admiralty directions for this portion
will therefore not be given, as the changes in the river channels alone would
render them of little value after any time has elapsed. Many difficulties
and troubles have arisen, so that in June, 1866, the following letter was sent
to Lloyds by their agents at Shanghai, Messrs. Dent and Co. —

Many disasters have occurred to tea ships that have gone to Hankow this
season of 1866. These disasters are so serious that we think the attention
of the underwriters and shipowners should be directed to the dangers attend-
ing the navigation of the Upper Yangtse for sea-going ships.

THE YANGTSE KIANG. 1127

During the winter months the river falls so low that in some places the
river steamers find only 10 feet of water ; the channel is continually shifting,
forming shallows and banks where a few weeks previously was deep water ;
thus the lightship on the Lang Shan crossing, one of the most difiicult parts
of the river, had recently to be moved half a mile. The water begins to
rise towards the end of March, but sometimes falls again till the middle of
May, and from fhat period till the end of July the rise goes on steadily with
a very strong current. It follows, therefore, that ships can only go up and
down with any degree of safety when towed by powerful steamers, adapted
to take the vessels alongside, and in charge of captains and pilots continually
employed on the river.

It is, however, not only the passage up and down that is attended with
danger ; there is also great danger to ships while at anchor off Hankow,
owing to the strength and eddies of the current, caused by the proximity
of the anchorage to the mouth of the Eiver Han ; this season the current
has been unusually strong (6 to 7 knots) and hence the greater number of
accidents.

CHAPTEE XXIV.

FROM THE YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

The great length of coast described in the present chapter, about 1,000
miles in extent, -was very little known to Europeans till within the last few
years. The early visits of the British embassies to China had added little
to the information given by the Jesuit missionaries, and it is only since the
warfare which led to the treaty of Tientsin, that hydrographical knowledge
of the coasts has been obtained. The low shores of the province of Kiang-
tse, the southern portion of the great delta of the Hoang-ho, is still a terra
incognita barred from access to shipping by vast ranges of shoals, extending
80 or 90 miles off the dry land, but which, as is the case with most other
diluvial areas, is probably intersected by numerous channel, which must
for all time be most difficult to navigate in the absence of buoys and
marks.

The Tung-liai, or Eastern Sea of the Chinese, although recognised by geo-
graphers, is scarcely known by that name to navigators. It comprises the
space lying between the Yellow Sea and the Pacific, being separated from
the former by an imaginary line joining the mouth of the Yangtse and the
Korea, and from the latter by the chain of islands stretching from Kiusiu
(Japan) to Luchu and Formosa. Its climate is temperate, though subject to
gales and occasional snow storms in winter ; the summer season is fine, and
it is not within the limit of the typhoons. Its currents, beyond the influence
of the Yangtse and coast tides, seem to be irregular, except in its eastern
part, through which the Japan stream flows north-eastward from Formosa
towards the Pacific along the southern shores of Japan, and northward with
some regularity, especially in the summer season, through Korea Strait.

The Whang-hai, or Yellow Sea, is bounded on the "West by the deep bight
of the coast formed between the Yangtse and the Shantung promontory,
and on the East by the coast of Korea. This sea was little frequented by
foreign vessels previous to 1858, but since that year all the prominent fea-
tures of its coast have been surveyed or examined, and the dangers of it are
now sufficiently well known, to answer the requirements of safe navigation

GULFS OF PE-CHILI AND LTAU-TUNG. 1129

between the treaty ports of China and Japan. The Korean coast and 200
miles of an unapproachable shore North of the Yangtse still remain un-
explored, but they are rarely approached by the mariner, and it is to be
hoped that a better knowledge of these localities may lead to the discovery
of some new harbours, of which the coasts are somewhat deficient, although
there are many excellent anchorages There is a considerable coasting trade
carried on principally with Shanghai, Ningpo, and Tientsin, and also with
Ta-kusan in the Korea.

Gulfs of Fe-chiU and Liau-tung. — The head of the Yellow Sea branches out
into a double-headed gulf, one head extending to the West 150 miles, the
other about the same distance to the N.E., forming a great inland sea,
known to the Chinese as the Peh-hai or North sea. The southern part of
this sea has received from foreigners the name of the Gulf of Pe-chili, and
the north-eastern part that of the Gulf of Liau-tung. At its entrance the
coasts approach within 55 miles of each other, and the space between is
called Pe-chili Strait, the southern part of which is occupied by the Miau-
tau group.

The shores of the Gulf of Liau-tung were almost a terra incognita to Euro-
peans until the year 1793, when H.M.S. Discovery and Alceste navigated its
southern portion and anchored in Halu-shan Bay. In August, 1855, H.M.S.
Bittern sailed along the eastern coast and anchored in Fu-chu Bay and off
the port of Newchwang. Subsequently, in July, 1859, a survey was made
by Commander J. Bythesea, H.M.S. Cruiser, and Major A. Fisher, Royal
Engineers, of part of the western coast from the Great Wall of China to the
Chi ho, 25 miles South of the Pei ho. The remaining shores were surveyed
in the fall of the year 1860 by Commander J. Ward, Lieut. C. Bullock, E.N.,
and officers of H.M.S. Actceon, Dove, and Cruiser.

The Gulf of Pe-chili borders the north-eastern margin of the great plaia
along the shores of the provinces of Shantung and Chili, receiving several
rivers, chief amongst which is the Yellow Eiver. At its head is the entrance
of the Pei ho, on which river stands Peking, the capital of the empire, and
also the opulent city and treaty port of Tientsin. The Gulf of Liau-tung is
the continuation of a great valley of Manchuria, lying between two mountain
chains in the province of Shing-king or Liau-tung, which encompasses its
sides. The Liau ho falls into the head of this gulf, on which river, at its
entrance, stands Yingtze, the treaty port of Newchang.

WINDS and WEATHER.— The climates of the Eastern and Yellow Seas
are in most respects identical, although there is considerable variation be-
tween their remote extremes, viz., the region about Formosa and Lu-chu in
the one and that of the coast of Shantung in the other.

In the Yellow Sea, near the coasts, the winds throughout the greater part
of the year are local. Between Shanghai and the Korea, and almost em-
I. A. 7 b

11.30 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

bracing the Shantung promontory, in December and January, it blows almost
constantly from the N.W. (seldom ranging beyond North and W.S.W.),
■with gales of long duration from North to N.W., sometimes with fine, but
generally with overcast, gloomy weather attended with rain. Towards the
China coast the wind follows more the trend of the shore, and between
Shanghai and the Gulf of Pe-chili, Captain Goodenough, of H.M.S. Renard,
which ran the mails in that season, states that a fresh N.N.E. wind blew
almost incessantly until the end of February, when it veered more to the
eastward. There are, however, breaks in this regularity. Snow is rare at
Shanghai, but the mountains and coasts of Shantung and the Korea are
covered with it in January, February, and part of March, and high lands
remain covered later.

In the Eastern Sea, in the spring and until June, moderate winds from East
prevail, bringing rain and drizzle, generally when the wind veers a little to
the northward, also occasional stiff N.E. breezes ; S.W. winds occur but
rarely, but bring fine weather for short intervals. Later in the season the
winds are variable, inclining chiefly to S.E., with occasional N.W. breezes.
Towards Japan it is recorded that westerly winds prevailed at the end of
July. Early in September, the winds prevail between E.N.E. and South,
and strong easterly gales have been known, but are very unusual.

In the Gulfs of Pechili and Liau-tung it appears that the climate is temperate
and agreeable in summer, and severe and stormy in winter, but the latter is
of only four months duration. The coasts are then covered with snow, which
begins to melt in March, snow storms occurring as late as the end of Feb-
ruary, and showers until the middle of March, when the winter season breaks
up. At the head of the Gulf of Liau-tung the ice lasts 4 J months, from the
middle of November to the end of March.

A dry season then commences, with scarcely any rain during the summer
months ; light winds, exceedingly variable and of short duration in any
quarter, prevailing. About the autumnal equinox, there are symptoms of
unsettled weather, and westerly winds prevail, with occasional short gales.

TIDES and CTJERENTS.— The tidal wave appears to come in to the
Yellow Sea from the south-eastward in the form of a tongue, making high
water at the Shantung promontory only 2 hours later than at Gutzlaff Island,
although it is several hours later on the intermediate coasts. The rise at
Gutzlaff is 15 ft., but at the promontory only 6 ft. ; whilst opposite on
the Korean coast it rises to 20, and in one place even 30 ft. ; a phenomenon
almost exactly similar to that which occurs in the English and Irish
Channels.

The flood sets West, and the ebb East, along the Shantung coast, to within
100 miles of the ancient or southern outlet of the Yellow River; but the
rotatory tides of the Yangtse have been observed off shore, 120 miles North
of the latter. In lat. 33° 15' N., long. 122° 16' E., 70 miles from the coast,

THE YELLOW RIVER OR WHANG HO. 1131

and 127 miles North (true) of the Ariadne Rock, it was high water, full and
change, about 1 o'clock, and the rise and fall about 9 ft. During the whole
rise and fall of the afternoon tide, it set from N.N.W. to N.N.E. at a maxi-
mum of nearly 2 knots, and being nearly slack for two hours; and during
the whole a.m. rise and fall, it set weakly to the southward for 13 hours;
making one complete revolution in 24 hours. These tides were observed in
December, and are recorded chiefly with the hope that more light may be
thrown upon them by others. A stiff S.W. wind was blowing at the time,
which may account for the weakness of the southerly current, as it is well
known that in the northerly monsoon the southerly set predominates.

The YELLOW RIVER or WHANG HO is little inferior to the Yangtse
in magnitude, being nearly 2,500 miles in length, but beyond 250 miles
from the sea it is totally unnavigable, and is alike, at present, the most use-
less and impracticable river in the world. Flowing through the midst of a
densely peopled and highly cultivated country, this remarkable river ofiPers
no facilities for navigation throughout a great extent of its course, and it
has gained the apt and striking name of " China's Sorrow," on account of
the exposure of the great plain (which its lower course traverses) to disas-
tious inundations, which are a perpetual source of wasteful expenditure to
the government and of peril and calamity to the people. It is but little used
by the Chinese for navigation, and the cities on its banks are in constant
jeopardy of being submerged. Foreign skill and science are necessary to
teach the people how to restrain its fury, and western steamers alone can
stem its impetuous current and make it a channel for commerce.

Between the Yangtse and Yellow Rivers the coast for 150 miles is low, and
intersected by numerous streams. The Grand Canal connects the two rivers
at their nearest point of approach to each other, where they are only 75 miles
apart. The canal is raised considerably above the plain at Whaingan on the
Y^ellow River, a little below the Hunjjtse lake, and 45 miles above the river's
mouth, and thence falls to the level of the Yangtse at Chin-kiang fu.

The whole of this low coast is fronted by extensive flats and shoal banks,
projecting in some places above 60 miles from the land, and rendering the
approach dangerous for vessels of large draught until better known, although
there may probably be channels among the banks in the neighbourhood of
the coast frequented by the native trading vessels. They all lie West of the
meridian of 122° E., except off the northern entrance of the Yangtse and
Tsung-ming. H.M.S. Highflijer, July, 1859, had soundings of 12 fathoms,
abreast of and 100 miles from the mouth of the Yellow River.

On various Chinese maps four hills or islands are represented at from 30
to 50 miles northward of the Yellow River entrance. Two of these were
sighted by the Dove on making the coast in December, 1861, and their posi-
tions approximately fixed. The north-eastern one is in about 35° N., long.
119' 40' E., and probably agrees with the Chinese Ying-ya-inun. It is about

1132 TANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

a mile in extent, has a flat rugged top with abrupt sides, as if of sandstone
formation, and is 100 or 200 ft. high.

A smaller islet or rock, of conical shape, probably the Chinese Nai-nai-
shan, was also seen from the mast-head, about 10 miles S.W. of Ying-yu-
mun. If the other two exist, they are Mun-li-shan lying South of Ying-yu-
mun, and Kai-shan, S.E. of it and the more distant of the two. To the
South and East of Kai-shan (probably Yu-chu of the Admiralty chart), and
between it and the Ta sha, many ridges of sand are delineated on a
Chinese map.

The coast North of these islands, though not steep-to, may be approached
with a proper degree of caution. The water is clear (as to sedimentary
matter), and the bottom gravelly to the northward of the banks above
mentioned.

The southernmost point of the coast of Shantung approached' by a Euro-
pean vessel is in lat. 35° 10' N., long. 119° 18' E. The shore here is low and
undulating, with detached hill ranges, 1,000 to 1,500 ft. high, which recede
from the coast at a point 10 miles North of this, and were also seen stretch-
ing to the southward, to within 60 miles of the Yellow River. A track
survey only was made from this to Kyau-chau Bay, and many of the names
on the Chinese maps could not be identified.

The character of the whole of the shore, hereabouts, is generally low at
the coast line, with projecting reefs ; there are sandy bays between the
points ; and isolated hills standing on low plains, which gradually attain
toward the northward the altitude of mountains.

Tower Point, in lat. 35° 20' N., is so named from a conspicuous square-
tower standing on a low hill. The point is low and rocky, and two reefs
extend a considerable distance oflF it, but they may be passed at a mile in
7 fathoms. There are also reefs of considerable extent skirting the coast for
6 miles North of Tower Point. About N.W. by W. 12 miles and N. by W.
6 miles from the point are two conspicuous isolated hills, 6 miles apart, re-
epectively 1,000 and 800 ft. in height; that nearest the coast slopes towards
the sea, and terminates eastward in a bluflP, which is the southern point of
entrance of a large open bay 9 miles across and 7 miles deep, the north-
eastern point of which is low and very rocky, with an island off it similar in
character. West 3 miles from the latter point a reef was seen fully a mile-
in extent, and beyond it, under some low cliff-sided hills on the North
shore of the bay, is a junk anchorage.

North-east of this reef point is the anchorage of Wang-kia-tai, a long
narrow bay affording shelter from North and N.E. winds in from 3 to 5
fathoms, mud. The temple of Lung-wang, on the shore of the bay, is in
lat. 35° 39' N., long. 119° 48' E. The shores of the headland East of Wang-
kia-tai are low and rocky, except on the sea coast, where there are two hills
600 and 400 feet high, the latter or south-eastern having a nipple on it.

THE YELLOW EIYER OE WHANG HO. 1133

Pinnacle Range, 1,600 ft. in height, is on the coast, about 11 miles N. by E
of Lang-yi tau. Between this and Lang-yi tau is a large bay with sandy
shores. The next 13 miles of shore to the north-eastward has not been ex-
plored, but from thence to Staunton Island the coast has been regularly sur-
veyed, commencing from the cape northward of Tolosan. Pinnacle Range
would appear to be the Chinese Lingshan. To-lo-sati Island, lying about
N.E. by E. 15 miles from Lang-yi-tau, rises to an elevation of 1,700 ft.

Tcha-lien-tau, in lat. 35° 54i' N., long. 120° 53' E., is S.S.E. I E. 16J miles
from Cape Ya-tau, the nearest land, and E. by S. 19^ miles from Tai-kung
tau, off the entrance of Kyau-chau Bay. The island is 1 mile in length,
N.E. and S.W., and very narrow ; at its centre is a small even-topped hill,
182 ft. high, and its eastern end is a detached bluff.

Tai-kunq tau is an island, 341 ft. high, 10 miles E.S.E. of Cape Evelyn,
the South point of entrance to Kyau-chau Bay, and S.W. ^ S., 16 miles from
Cape Ya-tau. It is of smooth and rounded outline, and from all points of
view greatly resembles a haycock. W.N.W. half a mile from it is a round
islet, 103 ft. high ; and W.S.W. 6 cables from the islet is a rock which covers
at high water, surrounded by a reef extending 4 cables to the S.S.W., which
at other times of tide is partly dry and partly awash. It is recommended to
give this island a berth of 2 miles when passing westward of it.

Siau-kung tau, lying 5 miles E.N.E. from Tai-kung tau, and S.W. \ S.
10^ miles from Cape Ya-tau, is a large, flat, square mass of rock, rising
sheer from the sea to the height of 78 ft., and apparently bold-to on all sides^
with 15 fathoms water at 3 cables' distance.

Round Island, 172 ft. high, lying South of the West point of entrance to
Kyau-chau Bay, at 2 miles from the shore, is of semi-circular profile, and
conspicu(ms on that account. About a quarter of a mile West of it, and
Connected at low water, is another island, larger, but only 100 ft. high,
hnving a level top, and inhabited. Off the East side of Round Islet are two
low islets.

Dangerous Rock, bearing N. f E. 3 miles from the summit of Round Island^
and S.E. f S. IJ mile fi-om the West entrance point of Kyau-chau Bay, is
just covered at high water springs, and has deep water on all sides. At 1
mile W.S.W. of it, and half a mile off shore, is another rock which covers at
6 ft. rise of tide. Between these two rocks there is a passage of 13 fathoms
water, with the point bearing N.N.W., but it is more prudent to keep out-
side or eastward of Dangerous Rock.

Swallow Bank, of 26 ft. least water and half a mile in extent, lies N.E. f N.,
4 miles from Round Island, and E.S.E. 3 miles from the West point of
entrance. This bank appears to be formed by deposits from the bay. To
pass North of it, keep the summit of Sishan touching Cape Evelyn W. by N.
nearly. A good mark to lead between it and Dangerous Rock is the highest

1134 YANOTSE KIANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULF.

and northern summit of Chi-po-san, touching Pile Point a little eastward of
Cape Evelyn, about N.W. by W.

Wei Hal or Kyau-Chau Bay, the entrance of which is on the West coast
of the Yellow Sea, in lat. 36° 2' N., long 120° 18' E., is a spacious harbour,
and one of the best sheltered on the East coast of China, its area at high
tide being about 140 square miles, and the anchorage perfectly landlocked.
It is partially frozen over during the severe winter season.

There will be no difficulty in recognizing the entrance to this bay in clear
weather, either when approaching from North or South, for at 17 miles east-
ward of it, the Loshan Mountain, which is 3,530 ft. high, and extends North
almost the same height for a mile, forms an unmistakeable landmark. Oa
a nearer approach the rugged top of the Lungshan Mountain, 1,146 ft. high,
will appear as a prominent and singular feature, and a little farther west-
ward, and immediately over the North side of entrance, is Nubhle Hill, 490.
feet high, with a large stone on its summit. At 1 1 miles westward of tho
entrance, the Tamo-shan, or High Dotiile Mountain, of smooth outline, rises to
the height of 2,249 ft., and is very conspicuous, showing a double summit
i'rom the eastward ; this range runs North, and meets the summit of Sishan,,
a mountain 1,096 ft. high. At 3 miles W.N.W. from Cape Evelyn, the South
point of entrance, is Chi-po-san Island, which is the first low land recognized
after passing the entrance.

Bay Rock, covering at 3 ft. rise of tide, lies W. by N. ^ N. 1| mile from
Cape Evelyn, and S.W' f W. nearly 2 miles from the South point of Yu-
nui-san. This rock may almost be called a hidden danger, as it is covered
at low water neaps. To pass North of it, keep Tai-kung-tau well open of
Cape Evelyn.

Horseshoe Bock is the most off-lying donger on the East shore of the bay,
from which it is distant half a mile. It covers at 5 ft. rise of tide, and from
its N.W. horn the West extreme of Yu-nui-san bears S. by W. ^ W. 2
miles, and the summit of Chi-po-san W.S.W. 3^ miles. The summits of
Tung-lau-shan and Gau-shan in line, and open westward of Woman's Island,
N.E. ^ E., lead 3 cables to the westward of it.

Woman^s Island, 1 5 ft. high, and on the same shore of the bay, is nearly
2| miles S.W. J W. from Gau-shan summit, and 2| miles N.W. i N. from
Nubble Hill. Its North and West sides are fringed with rocks, which dry
at low water, and it is connected with the mainland by an extensive mud
flat. At 4 cables S.W. by W. | W. from the centre of the island is a rock
which covers at 10 ft. rise of tide.

Supplies. — Almost any necessary supplies can be obtained at the village of
Chiug-tau-kow, which stands in a bight on the North side of entrance of
Kyau-chau Bay, 1 mile West of Nubble Hill. Clear and good water can
be obtained by digging above high water mark in the sandy bay on the
East »ide of Chi-po-san and South of its summit.

THE YELLOW RIVER OR WHANG HO 1135

Directions. — Vessels navigating in the vicinity of Kyau-chau Bay may
soon find sheltor in heavy north-easterly gales. Having made out the land,
it will be best to hug the shore to insure smooth water, and, if necessary,
anchorage may be found in 8 to 10 fathoms, muddy bottom, anywhere
between the entrance of the bay and Lo-shan Harbour, which is S.W. of
Lo-shan Mountain. The low islet Chuen-si-san, about 15 ft. high, lying
three-quarters of a mile off the shore, in a S.E. direction from the summit
of the Lung-shan Mountain, and 8 miles eastward of the entrance, should
always be left to the northward.

The first anchorage where junks resort is S.E. 2 miles from Tungshan, on
the North side of the entrance in Ching-tau-kau Bay. Small vessels can
anchor amongst the junks, but vessels of large draught should anchor in 8
or 9 fathoms, muddy bottom, with the small island on the East side of the
bay bearing about N.N.E. one-third of a mile.

The large bay on the South side within the entrance, between Cape Eve-
lyn and Chi-po-san Island, which might be considered an outer harbour,
affords excellent shelter from easterly winds, round South to N.W.

The coast eastward of Kyau-chau Bay, .which extends E. by N. 22 miles
and terminates in Cape Ya-tau, is the southern face of a mountainous penin-
sula, which is indented with several bays, and has many off-lying islands and
reefs, but there is anchorage all along at a moderate distance from the shore,
the soundings for the most part decreasing gradually. During the summer
months it would be highly imprudent to anchor on this exposed coast, with
the chance of being caught in a S.E. or easterly gale. In the summer of
1865 the winds from E.N.E. to S.E. were very frequent, at times blowing a
hard gale, but these gales are seldom of more than 12 hours' duration. In
winter the winds are from N.N.E. to N.W., chiefly in the latter quarter near
the land, but in the former in the ofiing, although a S.W. gale of a few
hours' duration, veering to South, is not unknown.

Supplies can be obtained from any of the villages along the coast at moderate
prices. Grapes and pears are clieap and plentiful. Good bread can also be
procured, and late in the season hares and wild fowl may be obtained.
Water is not good. In Loshan Bay, in August, H.M.S. Swallow watered at
a small stream N.W. of Boulder Hill, but the supply was poor, and it had
to be carried a considerable distance in barricoes. Several cases of dysentery,
one terminating fatally, were ascribed to this cause.

Cape Adkins, the north-eastern point of Loshan Bay, is a steep, cliffy
head, the smooth summit of which, 239 ft. high, terminates a small range
or ridge of hills running eastward of Boulder Hill. On the northern part
of the cape, which is rather low, is a small square tower ; the southern point
of the cape is an abrupt cliff, bold-to. A small round islet, connected with
the mainland at low water by a spit of shingle, lies 1 mile N.N.E. from the
eape.

1136 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULP.

Ka-tih-nian, an isolated island, lies off Loshan Bay, 12 miles E. by N. of
Cape Yatau, and about the same distance from Cape Adkins. From the
other two islands in the offing, Tcha-lien-tau and Surveyor's Island, it bears
respectively N. by E. ^ E. 17| miles, and W. by S. 22 miles. It is a small
island, 243 ft. high, with a smaller island, about 100 ft. high, lying 3 cables
S. by W. from it, with a passage between carrying 12 fathoms.

Surveyor's Island, 23 miles off-shore, is in lat. 36° 16' 30" N., long.
121° 24' 15" E. It rises out of 17 fathoms water, and is divided into two
distinct portions by a narrow neck which is perforated ; the southern and
higher part, which is very rugged, being 297 ft. high. In the spring months
this island is often obscured by fogs, which are very prevalent in the offing,
although it may be quite clear along the coast. ^

The coast runs N.N.E. from Cape Adkins to Ting-tsi Harbour, a distance
of 11 miles. The country is hilly, the shore mostly low, and not generally
approachable on account of rocky and shallow ground, and it is fronted by
several off-lying islands and reefs. Clijf Island, 121 ft. high, is N.E. by E.
3 miles from Cape Adkins, and S.W. of it is a low island, and another of less
elevation to the westward. Long .Island, half a mile N.E. of Cliff Island, is
180 ft. high. End Island, off the eastern point of Long Island, and connected
with it at low water, is smooth and grassy, and 68 ft. high. Outer Island is
1^ mile N.E. of End Island, and S.E. |^ E. 6 miles from Temple summit,
S20 ft. high. It is narrow, smooth and grassy, and 116 ft. high. Outer
Rock, 24 ft. high, is on the middle of a reef, 2 cables in extent, which lies
half a mile South of Outer Island. E. by S. a quarter of a mile from this,
with the island summit N. by W., is a sunken rock, which generally breaks
at low water. Reef Island, N. by E. ^ E. 3 miles from Outer Island, is 30
fe«t high. Anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms may be obtained between Eeef Island
and Outer Island, with shelter from S.W. winds ; but there is no part of the
coast for 36 miles North of Cape Adkins where there is shelter from winds
between South and N.E.

Tingtsi River.— 5«r Island, or Tn-shing, 99 ft. high and 2 cables in extent,
is 7 miles N.N.E. from Outer Island. It has a round, grassy summit, pre-
senting the same aspect from every direction, with cliffy sides fringed with
rocks. It lies off' the entrance of the 7'm^-^s^ ^/t?er, and as it is inside the
sand banks of its bar, it should not be approached on passing within 2 miles.
Ting-tsi Eiver entrance has the appearance of a deep inlet. It does not ap-
pear to be much frequented, as only a few small junks were seen. On some
Chinese maps the river is named Lih-ho. At the head of the inlet stands the
town of Kin-kia, formerly an important trading place. The entrance, 4
miles westward of Bar Island, is about 3 miles across, but the navigable
channel is less than half a mile wide, and subject to changes. Green Head,
at the South point of entrance, is 4 miles W. \ S. from Bar Island. River
Islet, 30 ft. high, is on the North shore, 1 mile northward of the narrow pro-

THE YELLOW EWER OR WHANG HO. 1137

montory extending north-westward from Green Head. The river is barred
by a long spit, 2 to 4 cables in width, which stretches in an E.S.E. direction
from Green Head nearly 4 miles. The depth on it at low water is 4 ft. At
high water springs a direct course can be steered in, with a depth of 15 ft.,
across the Bar Spit, with the summit of Green Head W. by N. J N., and
just open to the southward of the more conspicuous hill behind it, which
mark also leads clear and to the southward of the sand-patch 1 mile W.S.W.
of Bar Island, and which may generally be discerned by the discoloured
water. When Bar Island is E. by N. |^ N., haul up N.W. to pass between
the shoals off Green Head and the narrow sand bank, very steep-to, which
commences 1 mile W.N.W. of Bar Island, and extends in the same direction
for 2 miles. River Islet may then be steered for, and good anchorage, per-
fectly sheltered, be obtained southward of the islet in 4 to fi fathoms. But
a greater depth of water, 7 ft. at low water and 18 ft. at high water springe,
may be carried in by steering direct for Bar Island on a W. by S. course, and
when at 2 to 3 cables' distance from the island changing the course to S.W.
until the leading mark, given above, is brought on.

The Coast now chancres its direction from N.E. by N. to E. by N., and
continues in the latter direction up to the Shantung Promontory, a distance
of 60 miles. For the first 12 miles the shore, as far as the town of Hai-yang,
is low and sandy, broken in three places by projecting ledges of rock,
stretching out some distance, and off the western of which, at 1 mile from
the shore, is a detached reef; this shore cannot be approached, for the depth
is only 3 fathoms at 3 miles distance. Three miles in-shore is seen a flat-
topped range, 796 ft. high, and N. by E. 9 miles from Bar Island, a spur of
which stretches towai'ds the sea.

Sutherland Rock, lat. 36° 41' N., is 24 ft. high, and lies 3 miles S. by E.
from Tau-tsui Head, E. by N. ^ N. from it is another rock awash at low
water. Tau-tsui Head, 4| miles East of Arthur Head, is a bold headland
at the extremity of a hilly promontory jutting out from the mainland for
about 2 miles in a North and South direction. Between the rocks and Tau-
tsui are even depths of 8 to 10 fathoms, decreasing to 6 fathoms when the
promontory is passed. Outside the rock the ground has not been sufficiently
examined, and it should not therefore be passed within a mile.

Staunton Island, or Su-shan tau, lying S.W. by W. 15 miles from the
south-eastern point of the Shantung Peninsula, is 6J miles S.E. by S. from
Tsing-hai-wei Point. The island is a ridge of steep hills, about a mile in
length N.W. by W. There is a fishing village and landing place on its
North side, directly under the centre hill, 353 ft. high, which is its highest
part. There is also a landing place in a bay formed by a rocky promontory
on the South side, with the summit bearing East.

Channel Roch lie respectively N.W. by N. \\ miles, and N. by W. | W.

I. A. 7 F

1138 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULE.

If mile from Staunton Island, and are North and South of each other three-
quarters of a mile apart.

Tides.— The following observations on the tides were made in 1865, during
the survey of H.M.S. Swallow. It is high water, full and change, at Tau-tsui
Head, at 3'' 20", and springs rise 12^ ft. The flood stream in the neighbour-
hood of Staunton Island sets West, and the ebb East, at the rate of If mile
an hour, which appears to be the velocity observed all along the coast, but
between Staunton Island and Channel Eocks the rate is o knots. It maybe
stated as approximately correct, that on the southern side of the Shantung
peninsula the flood stream sets westward, whilst on its northern side it sets
eastward.

Actaeon Shoal. — A dangerous shoal, lying southward of the Shantung
promontory, was sounded on by H.M.S. Actceon, 19th February, 1860. The
least depth obtained was 22 ft. in lat. 36° 31 1' N., long. 122° 28' E. approxi-
mately, but less water probably exists.

As there is no reasonable doubt of the existence of this shoal (which is
laid down on Chinese maps S.E. of Cape Macartney, North of the parallel
of Staunton Island, and called the Siau-sha or small Sand-bank , vessels,
particularly those of large draught, approaching its vicinity should keep a
careful lead going, and as it may exist to the East, or more probably to the
N.E. of the position assigned to it, they should at present not pass West of
the meridian of 122° 48' E., unless they pass inside or West of the position
of the shoal.

SHANTUNG PROMONTORY.— A chain of high peaked hills, 2 to 3 miles
in breadth, rises eastward of the sandy plain of Yung-ching, and running
6 miles in an easterly direction, forms the Shantung promontory. These
hills when first seen from N.W. or S.E. make like a number of pointed
detached islets of peculiar appearance. Five of them are very prominent ;
the highest, called Ta-ching-shan, 910 ft. high (which is also the Chinese
name for the promontory) is the western peak ; it is very pointed and pre-
cipitous, except to the North, on which side it has a gentle slope. Sharp
Peah, 680 ft. high, halfway between this and the extreme of the promontory,
is also remarkable, with deep valleys on either side.

SHANTUNG LIGHTHOUSE, built on the N.E. extreme of the promon-
tory, in lat. 37° 24' N., long. 122° 42' E., is a circular white tower, 64 feet
high. The light first exhibited in the year 1875 is a fixed light, showing
Iright to the north-westward between N.W. by W. ^ W. and N.N.W. f W. ;
red from N.N.W. | W. to N. by W. ^ W. over and eastward of Alceste
Island ; hright from N. by W. i W. through East and South to S.S.W., and
red from S.S.W. to S.W. ^ W., to warn vessels that they are approaching
the coast. The light is obscured by hill peaks between N.W. by W. ^ W.
and N. by W. g W. and also by Alceste Island between N.N.W. and

SHANTUNG PEOMONIOEY— DIRECTIONS. 1139

N.N.W. J W. The light is elevated 200 ft., and should be visible in clear
weather 20 miles off.

Rodney Rock lies 4 cables from the shore off the N.E. end of Shantung
Promontory. It is awash at low water, and lies in a direct line between the
centre of the lighthouse and the eastern extreme (within the reef) of Alceste
Island. From it the N.E. promontory bears S.E. by S., Abrupt Bluff, West,
and the western extreme of Alceste Island, N.W. by N., 16 cables distant.

Alceste Island, or Siau-ching-shan, 210 ft. high, triangular in shape, flat-
topped, and bounded by cliffs, lies 3 J miles N.N.W. ^ W. from the extreme
of the Shantung promontory, and IJ mile offshore. A cluster of reefs ex-
tends 4 cables North from its East point, the outer reef of which is awash,
but the others are higher. There is also a small pinnacle rock a quarter of
a mile South from the same point, with a small rock awash close to the S.E.
of it. The tides are strong inside Alceste.

Anchorages at Shantung Promontory. — The following are the safest and
most convenient anchorages. From S.S.W. to S. by W. of Ears Eock, in 5
to 8 fathoms, with the Temple Saddle bearing E.N.E. In 5 to 6 fathoms in
the bay between Ears Rock and Flat Rocky Point, avoiding the patches and
reefs. At any part of Shang-kau Bay in 4 to 6 fathoms, and under Shu-a-
tau Head in 5 to 7 fathums, with shelter from N.E. winds. In Aylen Bay
W.S.W. to S.W. by W. of Martha Point in 4 to 5 fathoms, or in the centre
of the bay in 6 to 7 fathoms. In 6 to 9 fathoms, between Martha Point and
Shantung Promontory ; and in the northern part of Yung-ching Bay (only
partially examined) in 4 to 7 fathoms.

Small craft can also find anchorage in Litau Bay, or the inlet on the South
side of Chalk Saddle in 3 to 4 fathoms. There is no good anchorage on the
North side of Shantung Promontory ; but anchorage can be obtained off its
north-eastern face in 5 to 8 fathoms, 2 to 4 cables from the shore ; and also
in the bay on its S. W. face, 1 mile from the extreme of the promontory, in
5 to 10 fathoms, with a rock or islet there bearing North, and the end of the
beach under the rugged hill, W. by N.

Directions for passing Shantung Promontory.— Vessels bound to the
northward into the Gulf of Pe-chili in the spring, are liable to pass Shan-
tung Promontory in foggy weather, without making it. It has been generally
observed that the effect of the tides is nearly neutral, as regards being set
East or West in a two or three days' run ; nevertheless, in rounding at such
a time, a vessel's position may be ascertained if there is any doubt about it
by constant use of the lead. In regard to the Actseon Shoal, circumstances
of wind and weather should be taken into account in deciding on which side
of it to pass, for it is clearly a danger lor large vessels. Thick weather is
not of unusual occurrence here, and this, together with the strength of the
tidal streams, renders it prudent to keep the vessel's position fixed by cross
bearing, as the coast between the piomoutoiy and \\ ei-hui-wei cannot

1140 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

always eaeily be identified, and it sometimes becomes necessary to anchor
at night.

Ki-ming Island. — Erom the high land of the Shantung Promontory a low-
sandy coast, broken by rocky points, trends W. by N. 14 miles to Wei-hai-
wei. The island of Ki-ming or Nan-ming tau, 9 miles W. | N. of Alceste,
lies 1 mile off a rocky point which projects considerably from the shore.
It is 370 ft. high, flat-topped, surrounded by extensive reefs on three sides,
and joined to the shore by a rocky flat, over which are not more than 3 to 4
fathoms, b^it the island may be passed to the northward at 2 cables in 12
fathoms. A large lagoon (salt) opens into the sea eastward of this point.

Wei-hai-wei Harbour, 23 miles westward of Alceste Island, is formed
between Leu-hung -tau, an island 510 ft. high, and a deep bight of the coast,
and is the most eastern anchorage on the North shore of the Shantung pe-
ninsula. It is easy of access, and capable of afi'ording shelter to a consider-
able number of vessels of moderate draught, but the anchorage is contracted
for large vessels. It has two entrances, one on the West, the other on the
East side of Leu-kung-tau, thus affording a facility for access or departure
•with almost any wind. The town of Wei-hai-wei stands on the side of a hill
on the West shore of the bay. The western entrance, although much nar-
rower than the other, has the deepest water, and should be used by all
vessels drawing above 18 ft. Round Island and three or four adjoining
rocks lie off the northern point of the western entrance. The outer rock, 15
feet high and steep-to, is three-quarters of a mile E.N.E. from the point ;
between it and Round Island is a rocky patch, which covers at high water.
No other hidden dangers are known. At half a mile E.S.E. from the eastern
end of Leu-kung-tau is a reef of rocks, steep-to, but as a portion of them
always shows above water, they may be easily avoided. The best anchorage
is near the West point of Leu-kung-tau, in 5 to 7 fathoms on excellent hold-
ing ground of mud, sheltered by the island from the N.E. In Wei-hai-wei
harbour it is high water, full and change, at 9'' 30"", and springs rise about
9 ft., neaps 6^ ft. In working through the eastern entrance the lead may
be safely trusted, there being no hidden dangers known. The shore of
the mainland may be approached to a mile, and that of Leu-kung-tau to
3 cables.

The land north-westward of Wei-hai-wei, and which forms the harbour
on that side, is a hilly peninsula, 900 to 1,200 ft. high, with rocky shores.
Its northern point is Cape Cod, 4 miles from Leu-kung-tau. Eddy Island, If
miles W.N.W. from Cape Cod, is somewhat low with scarped cliffs, and lies
1 mile N.E. from the extreme of a narrow, jutting peninsula, 2 miles in
length, on which is a remarkable peaked hill with even slopes. From this
the coast recedes south-westward for 7 miles to the mouth of a little stream
which small junks can enter, and then bends westward again, skirting a luw
sandy plain lor 16 miles farther to While liock Pvini, whith is 6 miles E.S.E.

KUNG-KUNG ISLAND AND LIGHTHOUSE. 1141

of Chifu Harbour. This point is the N.E. extreme of Yungmatau, a narrow
island which thence extends 4 miles to the S.W. by W. Around the South.
end of this island is the entrance to Lungnmn Tlarhour, which would safely
hold a large number of small vessels moored. The course from Eddy Island
to White Rock Point is W. f S., 21 miles, and the shore between them should
never be approached to a less depth than 9 to 10 fathoms.

Kung-kung Island and Lighthouse. — A group of islands and rocks, of
moderate elevation, is spread over an extent of 7 miles, at the north-western
part of the extensive bay south-eastward of Chifu, and gives shelter to the
spacious harbour of the same name which it forms. Kung-kung tau, the
largest of the group, is even-topped in character, and has on its summit, 200 ft,
high, a lighthouse 45 ft. high, which bears N.W. -^ W. 7^ miles from White
Eock Point. From this lighthouse is shown a fixed bright light, elevated 242
feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather at a distance of 22 miles.

^ast Sayid-spit, which greatly shelters the anchorage from easterly winds,
extends three-quarters of a mile S.W. f S. from the S.W. point of Kung-
kung.

The German man-of-war Arcona, when passing Chifu Harbour, observed
a shoal about I mile long, on which 4^ fathoms were obtained. From
the shoal North Eock bore W. by N. i N., S.E. Island W. by S. i S., and
White Rock S. by W. i W.

North Roch, the outer and north-eastern islet of this group, bears N.E. J E.
4f miles from Kung-kung tau lighthouse. A small rock just awash at high
water, and therefore nearly always visible, lies N.E. by E. J E. 3 cables from
North Rock, and is steep-to, there being 9 fathoms close outside it.

Double Roch, S.W. by W., 2J miles from North Rock, when seen from the
eastward appears, as its name denotes, to be double, the northern part like
a wedge ; the southern part, which is much the higher, 198 ft., is an irre-
gular mound, rather elongated to the westward.

South-east Island, 60 ft. high, bears from North Rock S.W. f S. 4J miles,
and is IJ mile S.E. by E. ^ E. from the lighthouse. Three high rocks lie
between S.E. island and Kung-kung tau, but no hidden dangers near them
have as yet been discovered.

Finger Rock, the shape its name denotes, is half a mile North of Kung-
kung tau lighthouse. Stick-up Rock, of similar form, lies to the North of tlie
western islets of the group. Mount Islet, where was situated from 1861 to
1867 the British Naval coal store and depot, is the second islet from the
westward. These three are useful leading marks for clearing East Sand-
spit, and approaching the anchorage under the islands.

Cape Chifu, about 60 miles westward of Alceste Island, is the eastern ex-
treme of a mountainous peninsula connected with the mainland by a low
neck of land of considerable extent. This peninsula, which is 5 miles long,
E.S.E. and W.N.W., and extends in a narrow ridge parallel to the coast

1142 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULP.

line, is high and steep, and when seen from the distance appears like an
island. Chifu Feak, at the centre of the ridge, is 980 ft. high, and has a
double top. One cable S.E. of Chifu Cape is Sentry Rock, which may be
closely rounded in 9 fathoms, and the cape is equally bold.

CHIFU or YENTAI HARBOUR, a treaty port, and the only one between
Shanghai and Tientsin, is formed in a bight of the coast between the penin-
sula of Chifu and the Kung-kung group of islands, which, being 3 miles in
extent, constitute a magnificent natural breakwater to the harbour, shelter-
ing the various anchorages from North and East. The anchorage space in
the harbour, comprising a depth of from 5 to 7 fathoms, is 4 square miles,
and for a depth exceeding 4 fathoms, 9 square miles, whilst a depth of 21 ft.
can be carried up to within 300 yards of Tower Head, which bears W. J S.
5^ miles from Kung-kung lighthouse. The harbour, although affording
ample depth of water for all classes of ships, is exposed to the disadvantage
of violent north-westerly and northerly gales which prevail through half the
year, particularly in the winter months, but its safety as well as its capacity
have been now fully proved by experience. During the last China war the
French squadron laid between Kung-kung tau and Tower Point during a
whole winter, and not a single ship dragged her anchors.

The town of Yentai, where the foreign settlement is, stands on the sandy
shore of a small interior bay westward of Tower Head.* It is built without
design or regularity. On the slope of the hill, facing landward, are some
European houses, the highest of which is the British consulate. The sum-
mit of Town Hill is occupied by a Chinese fort and signal station. There
is a Chinese customs' establishment, which is in all respects similar to that
at Shanghai.

Supplies. — Contractors supply excellent beef and fair mutton, and there is
an abundance of vegetables of good quality. Coal can be obtained from
contractors, the naval depot at Mound Islet having been removed. It is
now imported direct from England and Australia, as well as from Formosa
and Japan. A correspondent of the North China Herald, writing from
Chifu in 1877, says that there is a scheme afoot for working coal-mines.
Some 120 miles West of Chifu there is a fine level plain, under which, at no
great depth, is a thick seam of coal, but little worked by the natives, as
they have no means of pumping the water out of the pits. There are &ome
nearer coal-fields, it is proposed to connect with Chifu Fort by tramway.

Water is the great want here, as it is along the whole of this part of the
coast of Shantung. Water brought from the interior is 2 to 2^ dollars a
ton, but the water obtained near the shore is uuwhulesome, and produces
diarrhoea and dysentery. When water is required it is customary to hoist

* Off the N.W. point of Tower Head or Yentai Hill, with the tower E. by S. \ S., is u

sunken rock of 7 ft. at low-water springs. On it stands a beacon, an iron rod with cajju.

CHIFU—DIEECTIONS. 1143

signal-flag No. 1 at the fore. At Mound Islet there is a well, but the water
is brackish, and at the village inside Chifu Cape there are wells, but the
water is of very inferior quality. Accounts are kept in taels, and petty
transactions in cash. The clean Mexican dollar passes current, but at a
considerable discount, viz. 8 to 15 per cent. The standard of Sycee silver
accepted at the Chinese custom-house is 4 per cent, higher than that prevail-
ing at Shanghai.

The exports consist chiefly of peas, beancake, silk, prawns, drugs, dates,
oil and wheat. The imports ot cotton and woollen fabrics, metals, opium,
seaweed, &c. The position of Chifu is highly advantageous for trade with
the northern ports of Japan, Korea, and the Eussian possessions. It is the
only harbour open in the North of China from December to March. There
is regular steam communication about two or three times a week with
Tientsin and the southern ports, but chiefly with Hong Kong and Shanghai.
The voyage to Shanghai occupies about three days, that to Taku about
one day.

In point of climate this port is undoubtedly the most salubrious of all
those open to the residence of Europeans on the coast of China. The winds
in a general manner follow the courses and periods of the monsoons. The
summer winds are chifly from the south-eastward, and light but very
changeable ; the winter winds are from the north-westward, strong and
often violent, but although they are intermittent they are more constant.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Chifu Harbour at 10** 34"'
springs rise about 8 ft., neap 6^ ft. For information concerning the tidal
streams, see p. 1138.

Directions. — If bound to Chifu from the eastward, after rounding Cape
and Eddy Island, the course and distance to the Kung-kung Islands is West
25 miles. The high hill over Knob Point, 3 miles eastward of Yentai, kept
on a W. by S. | S. bearing, will lead well clear to the eastward of these
islands, giving S.E. Island a berth of three-quarters of a mile. This mark
should be followed, in order to clear the East sand-spit, until Stick-up Rock
cornea on with the eastern part of Mound Islet (the second from the "West),
bearing N.N.W., when the course may be altered for Mound Islet, until
Finger Rock, which is conspicuous, comes on with the West extreme of
Kung-kung tau, then haul up about N.E. by N. or N.N.E., if wishing to
anchor close under Kung-kung tau, where the depth will be 4 fathoms, or
continue N.N.W., if of light draught, or N.W. if of heavy draught, and
anchor in 4 to 7 fathoms as convenient. The bottom is mud, the holding
ground is good, and there is sufficient space for a large number of vessels.

If wishing to run on for the anchorage in Village Bay under Chifu Cape,
when the mark for clearing the East sand spit has been reached, Chifu
Peak bearing N.W. will readily be distingui.'ihed. Steer N.W. ^ W. for
the head of the bay, and anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms, mud, with the extreme

1M4 YANGTSE KTANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULF.

of the cape bearing about N.N.E. or N.E. by N. H.M.S. Adceon, in 1860
anchored here in 3| fathoms at low water, with Chifu Peak N.W. by N. .
Sentry Eock N.E. by E. ^ E, ; the lighthouse E. by S. ^ S. ; and Knob
Point S.S.E.

If working in for this harbour from the eastward, North Pock, Double
and S.E. Islands may be safely approached to half a mile on the one side,
and the mainland on the other, until the soundings decrease to 4^ fathoms,
the water gradually shoaling as the shore is approached. Between the
islands and Knob Point is the Kung-kung Plat, having in one or two places
4 fathoms at low-water springs, rather near to the island, but a general
depth of 4J and 4f fathoms.

As the East sand-spit extending from Kung-kung tau is approached,
remember the bearing of the hill over Knob Point, W. by S. J S., and do
not go northward of that bearing until the clearing mark, Stick-up Eock
and the Mound, comes on. When the spit is cleared a longer stretch may
be made on the port tack, taking care not to approach the Mound nearer
than to bring S.E. Island E. f S., when it will be seen over the sandy flat
between the two portions of the island. This line will clear the West sand-
spit, the South extreme of which bears from the centre of Mound S. by E. ^
E. nearly three-quarters of a mile, and W. I N. from the lighthouse.

Approaching from the westward Chifu Peak, 980 ft. high, and the land of
the peninsula will show out conspicuously, appearing from a distance like
an island, the low sandy isthmus connecting it with the mainland not being
visible. There are no hidden dangers known in the vicinity. Three or
four detached rocks are dotted along the face of the peninsula, but they
are all well within half a mile of it, and above water, so that a course a mile
off and parallel to the shore clears everything. Sentry Eock, lying off the
cape, may be rounded at 2 cables distance in 7 fathoms, and the anchorage
steered for.

If intending to anchor under the Kung-kung Islands, after rounding
Sentry Eock, steer for Knob Point until the clearing mark for the West
sand spit (the lighthouse bearing East) comes on ; then run in southward
of that line and anchor as convenient.

The Coast westward of the bold sea face of Chifu peninsula falls back
southward, forming a sandy bay, terminating at Sloping Point, 11 miles
N.W. by W. J W. At 11 miles farther in the same direction is Low Point,
distinguished by a conspicuous nipple or small mound upon it, 250 ft. high ;
and between the points are two other bays. At 8 miles westward of Low
Point is Teng-chau Head of about the same height, around which are steep
cliffs. In 1875 a light was falsely reported to be shown on this head.

Teng-chau, a city of the second class, is commanded on" three sides ; the
rising ground of Teng-chau Head overlooking it on the West. An opening

THE MIAU-TAU ISLANDS. 1145

in the sea face of the city wall forms the entrance to a small camber, in
which a fleet of small junks lie closely packed and sheltered from all winds.
The little camber is a scene of bustling activity in summer, some junka
taking in cargoes of grain. Coal is occasionally imported from Fu-chau.
No supplies or water of good quality can be obtained here.

Teng-chau Bank extends in a W.N.W. direction 7 miles from Teng-chau
Head, with a general depth of 2 to 4 fathoms on it. It is apparently of
sand and rock, with several small knolls and large shelves of shallow water.

If intending to anchor off Teng-chau, after rounding Low Point steer
W. I N., and when Teng-chau Head bears W.S.W. stand in and take up
anchorage in 3 to 6 fathoms. But if running westward be careful not to
bring the nipple on Low Point to the eastward of E. by S. f S., to avoid a
dangerous rocky ledge extending nearly a mile off a low point of the shore,
and the extremity of which is 2j miles East of Teng-chau Head.

The Miau-tau or Meih-shan Islands, in all fifteen, exclusive of small
rocks, extend 35 miles in a northerly direction from Teng-chau to within 22
miles of the extremity of the Liau-ti Shan promontory on the North side of
Pe-chili Strait, and they separate the Yellow Sea from the Gulf of Pe-chili.
The four northern islands form a group, the peak of the northernmost being
in lat. 38° 23' 37" N., long. 120° 55' E. The southernmost islands form a
compact group, 9 miles in extent, enclosing the anchorage known as Hope
Sound, where the British fleet, under Vice-Admiral Sir James Hope, K.C.B.,
assembled in 1860. The intervening islands and rocks are isolated and
scattered.

Anchorages. — Hope Sound can only be considered as a summer anchorage,
at which season ships of any draught and in almost any number may lie
quite sheltered.

Charyldis Harhour, at the N.W. end of Changshan Island, may be entered
from North or South ; it affords a secure anchorage at all seasons of the
year, and is protected from all winds by the surrounding islands and rocks.
There is sufficient room for two large vessels and four small vessels to lie at
single anchor. It is advisable to moor, however, as vessels are generally
tide rode, and seldom swing to the wind.

In Chief Bay, on the South side of Toki, there is anchorage in 6 to 9 fa-
thoms, well protected from the northward and westward.

H.M.S. Wellesley, in 1840, anchored in 12 fathoms under Kao-shan or
Quoin Island during a strong northerly wind, with the island bearing from
North to N.N.E. ^ E. about a mile distant.

Ta-cJiu-shan, or Great Bamboo Island, the easternmost of the Miau-tau

group, is 480 ft. high. Changshan, or Lovg Island, is the largest of the

Miau-tau Islands, and divided into two parts by a narrow isthmus of ehingla

nearly a mile in length. Its East and North sides, bold and cliffy, are steep-

I. X. 7 a

1146 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

to. The southern part of Chang-shan is also hilly, its South and centre hills
being each 490 ft. high. Chang-shan Tail, a sandy spit, extends South up-
wards of half a mile from Spit Point, its South extreme. Ta-hi-shan and
Siau-hi-shan, or Great and Little Black Islands, are to the westward of
Chang-shan, and between them is the small island Miau tau or Temple Island,
310 feet high, on the N.W. side of which is Hope Sound, which, as before
stated, is the best and most sheltered anchorage among the Miau-tau group.
The western point of Ta-hi-shan is a stupendous bluflf, with cliflFs 600 ft. high.
Tohi-tau, 10 miles northward of Chang-shan, and readily distinguished by
its peak, 613 ft. high, is in the form of a right-angled triangle. Kao-shan or
Quoin Island, 650 ft. high, lies nearly 5 miles W.S.W. of Toki. Houkilslandy
on which it is proposed to build a lighthouse, lies 4 miles to the southward.
It is 310 ft. high, has a reef extending some little distance from its northera
side, and another off its eastern end.

Hesper Bock, about 30 yards in extent, dries from 4 to 6 feet at low-
water springs. From the rock the West extreme of Ta-kin bears N.N. W.
^ W. ; the summit of Kao-shan West ; and the highest part of Ta-chu-san,
S. by E. Great caution should be used in approaching this locality at high
water. Lieutenant Bullock remarks — " We were much struck on passing,
the day being calm, with the treacherous appearance of this rock, which
looked like a brown floating log, and might easily have been passed un-
noticed."

Fisherman Hock, lying nearly in mid-channel between Toki and Ta-kin
Islands, is seldom visible. From the rock, the East extreme of Takin ap-
pears just touching the West extreme of North Hwangching N.N.E. f E. ;
Kao-shan is just seen over the North extreme of Toki, S.W. by W. ; and the
western side of Sha-mo is in line with the centre of Siau-chu-shan, S. by
E. |E.

Directions. — Vessels bound to the Pehi ho or other porta in the Gulfs of
Pe-chili and Liau-tung, are recommended to use the Chang-shan channel on
the North side of Chang-shan, the course and distance from 2 miles outside
of Alceste Island to the middle of which, is W.N.W. 100 miles. The chan-
nel between Toki and Ta-kin cannot be recommended to a stranger on
account of the Fisherman Rock.

There is a narrow, deep channel between North and South Hwangching
Islands, but at its East entrance, nearly in the centre, is the rock which dries
6 ft. at low water, and is therefore nearly always visible.

From Miau-tau Strait the southern coast of the Gulf of Pe-chili trends in
a south-westerly direction for 60 miles to Lai-chau. The coast is low, lying
under a mountain range, the crests of which are from 10 to 15 miles inland.
Low spurs break through the otherwise even coast-line, and, projecting at
some points far from the shore, constitute dangers, which should be ap-
proached with extreme caution in bad or thick weather, more particularly in

THE PEI HO. 1147

northerly or north-westerly gales, when at night the reckoning may be in
error on account of the current.

East of Lai-chau the mountains turn abruptly to the South, the coast
bending westward round a large shallow bight, 30 miles across. Thence it
continues in a N.W. direction for 120 miles to within 30 miles of the Pei ho.
This part of the coast, the margin of the Great Plain, is low, sandy, and
almost a desert. Scantily populated, its inhabitants live in small wretched
hamlets, in mud hovels built on banks elevated a few feet above the plain,
and in a state of extreme poverty.

The Ta-tsing ho or Li-tsin ho, the present outlet of the Yellow River,
has its entrance in lat. 37° 62' N., long. 118° 35' E. Tsi-nan fu, the capital
of Shantung, stands 4 miles South of the river, at about 1 35 miles from the
eea and 75 miles from the canal, but there is little known concerning it. The
waters of the river are laden with yellow mud or clay, caused by the irrup-
tion of the Yellow River into its bed, and that torrent now fairly occupies
its channel, having established the Ta-tsing as its outlet since 1851.

The Bar, when surveyed in 1860, was 3 miles from the entrance of the
river, and had a depth of from 2 to 3 ft. on it at low water springs. The
depth over the bar ^t high-water springs would therefore be 12 to 13 feet.
In 1868 the bar had only 4 feet over it at high tide, but had a channel on
either side, that on the South carrying 7 ft., and that on the North 5 ft.

The PEI HO or White River, called also the Tientsin ho, is the great
highway to Peking, the capital of China. The important city and treaty
port of Tientsin also stands on this river at its junction with the Grand
Canal, of which it is the northern terminus. No peculiar difficulties in its
navigation, from the entrance up to Tientsin, are met by vessels drawing
from lOJ to 11 ft. In fact the navigation of the river is too simple to re-
quire directions ; a mid-channel inclining into the bends and slightly avoid-
ing the points being the best. With long vessels there are some points
■which will require considerable care and skill in turning. If the vessel is
drawing more than 8 ft. there are two places that must be passed at high
water. One of these shoal places, having only 7 it. at low tides, is otf the
brick-kilns about 9 miles below Tientsin ; the other, of 6 J ft., is in the long
broad reach, 3 miles below the city.

According to a recent regulation foreign vessels are only allowed to re-
main at anchor at the mouth of the river, and at Tientsin ; they must
there occupy berths assigned by the custom-house officials. Vessels anchor-
ing on the route to Tientsin are required to anchor as close to the bank as
possible, and to buoy their anchors. No foreign vessel is allowed to anchor
in any narrow part of the river, nor in the bends. Persons infringing these
regulations are liable to a fine.

TIENTSIN is a treaty port, and has a consular establishment. It is the

1148 TANGTSE KIANQ TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

eea port of Peking, and the largest and most important city in the North of
China. It has trade with Siam and Cochin China, as well as with all the
ports of China. Both strategically and commercially it is the key of the
capital. The river is 200 ft. wide at Tientsin ; above this it soon contracts
and becomes too shallow even for gun-boats.

The foreign settlement or concession is about 2 miles below the city. That
of the British is at Tz-chu-lin on the South bank of the river, where is the
consular establishment. It has a fine bund, where is a jetty at which steam
ves.sfcls can lie and unload. About a quarter of a mile below the British,
concession are two large and strong earth-forts on either side the river.

The chief foreign articles of import are cotton goods, cambrics, woollens,^
silk, opium, metals, needles, and matches. The trade is by no means un-
important, but it is fast merging into the hands of native merchants, who
avail themselves of every facility which is at the disposal of the foreigner,
and procure their goods direct from Shanghai. The native imports are
hemp, paper, teas, sugar, silk, sea-weed, beche de mer, camphor, and ginger.
The chief exports are cotton, soap, skins felt, wool, grain, drugs, and
fruits.

The native currency is confined to taels, copper cash, and a sort of bank
note current on the spot. Dollars pass at either Tientsin or Peking, but on
the road copper cash are more useful. Tientsin cash are not current in
Peking. The northern Chinese now accept small silver coins, such as ten
and five cent pieces and sixpences.

Supplies. — At Tientsin and along the river ample supplies of bullocks,
eheep, and poultry can be obtained. Sheep are cheap and plentiful, and
fatten to a great size on oil cake. Vegetables are rather scarce. Water from
the river, if taken sufficiently above the entrances at low tide, and cleared
by alum, which may be bought at any of the villages, is wholesome. Slack
lime can also be procured. Drinking water is supplied by the compradors.

Climate. — Ofi" the river's mouth it has been found both agreeable and
healthful during the summer months, the sea breezes which then prevail
tempering the heat ; at Tientsin the summer heat is intense, and the diseases,
typhus, cholera and small pox, which are so rife, are rather attributable to
want of sanitary precaution than to climatic influence.

The Bar of the Pel ho, the Chinese name of which is Lan-kiang sha, ig
about 2 miles in length, in a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction, and
consists of hard mud. Being now well buoyed there is no difficulty in cross-
ing it, and there are also beacons on the flats near the forts which serve as
leading marks. The channel is wide.

The shoalest part of the bar is three-quarters of a mile in extent, com-
mencing at 4 miles below the outer forts. About the middle of the channel,
at 2| miles S.E. by E. ^ E. of the South Cavalier of the South fort, there is
an elbow or bend in the fairway, at which part there are only IJ feet at

THE PEI HO. 1149

low tides, but tlie bottom is very soft mud. Farther out there are 2 feet,
but the bottom is hard mud, or sand, so that vessels than can cross this can
also pass the elbow, although in less than their own draught. At the en-
trance to the bar, the northern banks, like those of the Peh-tang, are of
hard sand, and like them also tail away to the southward.

At high water springs from 11 to 13 feet may be carried over the bar, the
height of the tide being much influenced by the direction and force of the
winds ; at neaps, there is at times as little as 6 or 7 ft. at high water. In
November, the channel of the bar becomes somewhat shallower, and the
river is generally frozen over early in December, and remains so till early in
March. The banks are not always easily distinguished when covered, for at
high springs the ripples over them are not visible.

Buoys and Beacons. — There is no light at present to mark the approach
to the Pei ho, but it is proposed to erect a lighthouse on Sha-lui-tien Island.
There are three buoys to mark the passage over the bar, and five beacons
to mark the banks of the river, three on the North side and two on tho
South. Entrance Buoy is a red iron buoy, on the outer edge of the bar, to
mark its commencement and the entrance of the channel. South Buoy is a
^lach iron buoy, on the South side of the bar, to mark a bend in the
channel, hmer Buoy is a red and black striped iron buoy, on the inner end
of the bar, to mark the entrance to the channel. This buoy is about one
mile S.S.E. of North Port. Mud Beacon, painted white, is on the North bank
at the mouth of the river. North Bank Harks are two 30 feet poles with
cages, on the North bank at the mouth of the river. South Bank Marks are
two poles 30 feet high with cages, on the South bank near the mouth of the
river.

These buoys are removed before the river becomes frozen up, and the
channel is re-buoyed every spring. They are often washed away.

Anchorage. — Vessels of large draught, say 24 feet, may lie in nearly their
own depth about 8^ miles from the forts, the mud being very soft, so that
they may ground at low water. The best position is at that distance, S.E.
by E. of the South Cavalier, the left and largest of the five seen. This will
be about 4| miles form the bar. Vessels of less draught can choose their
own depth upon the same bearing, finding 15 feet at Ij miles from the bar,
A vessel anchoring in 8 feet more than her draught at half tide would have
from 2 to 3 feet to spare at low water springs.

The holding ground at this anchorage is excellent, A heavy gale brings
in an unpleasant sea, yet with good ground tackling and plenty of cable out
it is considered that a sailing vessel ought to ride out a summer gale. The
anchorage seems to be a wild one in winter ; in the gales of November, some
boats only were lost. At a later period ships cannot anchor there at all,
owing to the ice.
; Sometimes vessels anchor in their own draught of water, for the mud is

1150 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULF.

very Boft, and if the wind sets in from seaward the level of the sea is raised^
whilst with off-shore winds which diminish the depth of water the sea is
always smooth. The difference of level between high water spring tides
with a south-easterly wind, and low water springs with a north-westerly
wind is 12^ feet, the spring rise being 10 feet.

The anchorage, called officially the Outer anchorage extends from the
Customs' junks to 3 miles outside the bar seaward.

Pilots certified by Her Majesty's Consul, are usually on the look out for
vessels entering during the open season. The rate of pilotage to Tientsin is
about 8 dollars per foot of draught.

The native divers are very skilful. They have been able to recover boxes
of specie from a depth of 25 feet. As gales sometimes come on in a few
minutes without the slightest warning, boats alongside are liable to be stove
or damaged.

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, outside the Pel ho Bar at
S** 30" ; ordinary springs rise about 10 ft., neaps 7 to 8 ft. The actual time
of high water sometimes varies as much as 1^ hours from the computed time,
but seldom at springs. As soon as the flats are covered, the tide sets across
the bar along the coast, nearly parallel thereto, the flood running northward^
the ebb southward, about 2 knots at springs, and 1 knot at neaps. On the
bar the tide is always weak. The influence of the direct tides in and out is
not felt on the bar except towards low water, when the stream is confined
within the mud banks. Outside the bar, the flood sets North, the ebb S.S.E.
The tides are subject to great irregularities. North and N.W. winds retard
the flood and diminish its rise; East and S.E. winds increase the rise and
retard the ebb. Slack water sometimes lasts 3 to 4 hours at the neaps. The
rate of the tide in the river is 2 to 3h knots, its maximum 4 J knots.

At Tientsin it is high water, full and change, about 7^ 0"" ; it is estimated
to be about 4 hours later than Ta-ku, but varies very considerably. The
average rise and fall is 3 to 4 ft., and the greatest range 6 ft. When the
snows melt, the river is said to rise 2 to 3 ft. higher. The times of high and
low water are irregular ; the water will sometimes remain at its high level
for 3 or 4 hours. The tide takes 6 hours to rise and the same period to fall,
but at the forts which stand some miles below Tientsin, the flood stream ran
only 45 hours at springs ; the ebb therefore must have run 8 hours. At the
above forts it is high water, full and change, at about ft*". The tide ceases
at Yong-tsun, 23 miles above Tientsin.

The flood tide has a velocity of about one knot and continues to flow up
for an hour after high water ; the ebb has a velocity of 2 knots and runs out
until two hours after low water. At times when it has been blowing from
the northward, there is scarcely any rise of tide and the stream is then
always making down.

Tide Signals. —The following signals are made from a flagstaflF with yard to

THE PEI-HO— DIEECTIONS. 1151

show the depth of water on the bar, the starboard yard-arm being the
northern one.

At masthead: —

Ball signifies ... - Slack water.

Eed flag ,,-... Rising tide.

Two balls „ - . _ . Falling tide.

At starboard yard-arm : —

Triangle over ball „ - . - - 8| feet on bar.

Ball over triangle „ - - - - 9^ ,,

Triangle hoisted alone at starboard yard-arm, in conjunction with the following
signals at port j'urd-arm, signifies an additional half foot of depth.

At port yard-arm : —

Triangle sign

Triangle over ball
Ball over triangle
One ball

Two balls horizontal
Two balls vertical
Three balls

fies - . - - 10 feet on bar.

- 11

- 12
. 13

- 14
. 15

- 16

Directions. — Having passed the entrance red buoy, steer to pass to the
northward of the South llaclc buoy at the bend of the bar channel, and thence
towards the inner striked buoy, and from that for the mouth of the river be-
tween the forts. A steam-tug is always in readiness at Taku to tow sailing
vessels up the river.

The beacons, before described, have been erected for landmarks in case of
the displacement of the buoys, and are used when the buoys are removed on
the approach of winter and until the channel has been re-buoyed in the spring
after the breaking up of the ice. The beacons are on the mud-flats below
the forts. To enter, keep Mud Beacon {white) just open southward of the
North cavalier of the North fort, and this will lead in southward of the
entrance buoy and up to the South buoy ; then the two South Banks marks
(poles with cages, black and red), on the South beach kept in one will lead
up to the inner buoy, leaving the South buoy to the southward. Pass South
of the inner buoy, steering for the mouth of the river.

The river from Taku to Tientsin is not difficult to navigate, yet owing to
its winding course great care is necessary. Steam vessels of nearly 12 feet
draught, and 200 ft. in length, have reached Tientsin at the period of spring
tides almost without a check, but some of the bends are very sharp. The
most difficult portion of the passage is a bend known as Double Eeach, about
20 miles below Tientsin, where many vessels have stuck fast, and on some
occasions the cargoes have had to be discharged before the vessels could be
floated. Conveniently placed warping posts are now erected at the worst

1162 YANOTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

places, so that check lines can be made fast. Twin screw vessels do not re-
quire these aids.

As in some parts of the river the channel is very narrow, and barely of
sufficient width to allow two vessels to pass each other, it has become cus-
tomary for that vessel which is proceeding against the tide to run her bow
aground so as to make way for the other.

Taku Forts, commanding the entrance of the Pei ho, leading to the capital,
are an important military post, and were deemed by the Chinese impregna-
ble till they fell before the British squadron on the 20th May, 1858, and
were captured a second time by the British and French allied forces on the
21st August, 1860. The land is so perfectly low and flat about them as to
make it difficult for a stranger to detect the entrance of the river, and there
is nothing to denote its position, except the shipping and the five elevated
cavaliers of the two principal torts which, from their yellow colour, are some-
times discernible with difficulty.

A British vice-consul is stationed at Taku, who receives the papers of all
British sailing vessels bound either for this port or Tientsin, those of steamers
being retained on board until their arrival at the latter place. The vice-
consulate is situated up the river, almost 2 miles above the forts, and about
a quarter of a mile from the river's bank. Here also are the Chinese cus-
toms' establishment, pilots, &c.

Kohu, 17 miles above the forts, is the port at which all the southern junks
from Amoy, Swatow, &c., discharge their cargoes. Double Reach, about 20
miles below Tientsin, is the most difficult part of the river to navigate. Most
vessels frequenting the port have, at one time or another, stuck fast in this
awkward spot, and on more than one occasion have had to discharge cargo,
in order to lighten sufficiently to get afloat. In the event of thus grounding,
boats are despatched from Tientsin as quickly as possible.

SHA-LUI-TIEN ISLAND, distant 120 miles N.W. by W. of Teng-chau,
and 30 miles E. f S. of the outer anchorage off the Pei ho, stands at the
S.E. extreme of an extensive group or mass of sand-banks, the outer edge
of which is 20 miles in length in an E.S.E. direction, at a distance of 12
miles from the coast. These banks, some of which dry at low waters must
be approached with caution, particularly in thick or foggy weather. The
island is low, but it has a small joss house on it, which, standing alone and
upon an elevated spot, is conspicuous. It is covered with long grass, and,
unlike the banks which are of dark river sand, is of bright sea sand. It is
Bteep-to on its South side. It is proposed to establish a lighthouse on the
island.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, off the western part of the Sha-
lui-tien Banks, at 2" 50", and neaps rise 8 ft. Near the banks the flood
takes a W.N. W. direction along their edge at the rate of 4i knots at springs,

GULF OF LTAU-TUXG. 1153

and the ebb to the S.E. at the rate of 3 knots ; on their western side the
flood sets to the northward, but its velocity is not so great.

A strong N.W. wind drives the water out of the head of the gulf of Pe-
chili, reducing the depth a little ; but a southerly wind raises the level of the
water.

GULF OF LI AU-TUNG.— About 10 miles N.E. from Sha-lui-tien Island
is the south-eastern point of the Province of Chili, which defines the limits
of the gulfs of Pe-chili and Liau-tung ; from thence the coast bends to the
N.E. by N. 70 miles to the Great Wall of China, to within a few miles of
which it continues to be quite low.

The Ching ho entrance to which is 16 miles N.E. by E. of Sha-lui-tien
Island, is through a break in the extensive banks which here skirt the coast
for many miles, and across a bar on which there are only 2 ft. at low water.
The Lau-mu ho entrance, 16 miles to the N.E. of the Ching ho, has a narrow
bar, with 3 ft. over it at low water. Hsin-shai-hau, about 2 miles S.W. of
the Lau-mu, is a bar creek, into which junks sometimes run for shelter iu
bad weather.

Mirage on this coast is very deceptive, giving an appearance of water to the
dry sand, and distorting the objects on shore considerably, small huts some-
times appearing, when first seen, to be large forts.

From the Lau-mu the coast runs 10 miles N.E. by N. to Sha-ti Point,
where the formation of the coast changes. This point is the southern ex-
tremity of a ridge of sand hills 30 or 40 ft. high, extending to the N.N.E.
in a straight line for 17 miles, as far as the Pu ho.

The Pu ho enters the sea through the sandhills, in lat. 39° 40' N. The bar
is nearly dry at low water. The rise and fall is about 6 ft.

From the River Pu, the ridge of sand hills, 30 ft. high, continues N.E. 8
miles, and 1 mile beyond their termination is the entrance of the River
Yang, which is very shallow, and though a few junks pass a short distance
up it at high water, the greater number discharge their cargo just within
the entrance, whence it is carried into the interior in carts. The depth is 1^
feet over the bar, and the rise and fall 6 ft. The small river Tai-cho enters
the sea 1 mile eastward of the Yang. The anchorage off Liu-sia-kwang, 1^
mile N.E. of the Tai-cho entrance, is open from N.E. by E. to S.W., at a
quarter of a mile from the sandy beach. The passage into the beach near
Liu-sia-kwang is between two sand-banks, the one running out from Rocky
Point, the other from the mouth of the River Tai-cho. Horses and bullocks
are abundant. There are two wells of good water at the village near the
beach. Ning-hai is a walled city, 2 miles from the sea, along the West side
of the Great Wall. The anchorage off it, near the extremity of the Wall, is
open from N.E. (round southerly) to W^est.

The GREAT WALL of CHINA abuts on the sea on the western shore of

I. A. 7 H

1154 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

the Gulf of Liau-tung, in lat. 39° 58' N., long. 119° 51' E. It originates at
the edge of the beach, to which it descends in broad terraces and massive
flights of steps, now much ruined, and having a masonry pier jutting out
into the sea. The wall rises generally from 20 to 30 ft., in sections similar
to the walls of Chinese cities, and with a thickness of 15 to 25 ft. After
running round and enclosing a portion of ground close to the sea side, thus
converting it into a fort, it runs obliquely inward to the West, and at a
distance of about IJ mile from the beach embraces the city of Ning-hai.

North of the Great Wall the western coast of the gulf is mountainous.
The ranges run in an E.N.E. direction far beyond the head of the gulf, and
nearly parallel to those on the eastern shore, from which they are distant
about 80 miles, and either can be seen in clear weather from the opposite
side of the gulf. Although appearing at a distance as continuous ranges,
many of them are distinct groups separated by extensive plains, whilst their
marked and. peculiar forms render them excellent, as they would soon become
familiar, and useful landmarks, when steering an off-shore course, which
would generally be the case when bound to Newchwang.

From the Great Wall, the coast trends E.N.E. 6 miles to Temple Head,
and after bending North for 3 miles round the head, it continues in the
former direction 26 miles to Sand Point, off which lie the extensive Crmzer
Shallows. It then turns abruptly to the N.N.E. All this coast is low,
along the edge of an undulating plain, 10 miles in breadth from the foot of
the mountains, and broken by low headlands on the sea shore, off which
are reefs.

The LIAU HO, at the mouth of which lies the treaty port of Newchwang
(Yingtze), now open to foreign commerce, drains an enormous area of country,
consisting of the western half of the Province of Shing-king or Liau-tung.
It flows through a plain 70 miles in breadth, and elevated only a few feet
above the sea, and about its entrance the lowland, covered with trees, is not
visible at the distance of 7 or 8 miles from a ship's deck, although it may be
seen from the masthead. Vessels of 18 ft. draught can cross the bar during
the summer months, but after the 1st of October, in consequence of the pre-
valence of northerly winds, which lower the water level of the gulf, it is
recommended that vessels abstain from loading over 16 ft. .

The river is frozen up during four months an a half, or from the middle of
November to the end of March, and the only means of communication is
then overland, by couriers via Peking at irregular periods. The tide affects
the stream for many miles. Small junks ascend to Tie-ling, 205 miles from
the sea, and good sized junks to Tien-chwang-tai, 30 miles from the bar. It
is 150 years since large junks went up to Newchwang.

NEWCHWANG LIGHT is exhibited from a lightvessel moored off the
entrance of the river in 5i fathoms at 10 miles from the entrance points, and
3 J miles outside the bar. It is o. fixed hrigU light, elevated 40 ft. above the

THE LIAU SO. 1155

sea, and in clear weather should be seen from a distance of 1 1 miles. The
illuminating apparatus is catoptric. The lightvessel is painted red, with
Newchwang in large letters on each side, has three masts, and one ball on her
mainmast only.

A gun will be fired when vessels are observed running into danger, and
the course that should be steered signalled by the Commercial Code. In
thick weather blasts from a steam Fog-horn are sounded at intervals of 10
seconds. If the light is being trimmed, a small bright light will be hoisted,
and a blue light burned at the half interval of time between lowering and re-"
hoisting, that is to say, at 7 minutes after lowering and 7 minutes before
rehoisting. This lightvessel is only in position from about the 1st of April
to the 1st of November, on account of the ice, and her position ordinarily is,
Tower Hill S. by E. J E. 16 miles, Euined Tower on Kae-chu Point S.E. i E.,
direction into the river about N.E. by E.

BUOYS and BEACONS. — There are two buoys to mark the channel over
the bar, also five beacons to mark the passage into the river. Both the
buoys can be seen from the lightvessel, the entrance buoy with the naked
eye, the inner buoy with a telescope.

Entrance or Outer Buoy is an iron nun buoy, painted in Hack and white ver-
tical stripes, and surmounted by a black rod and ball, visible 4 miles ; it is in
3 fathoms, oaze, on the western edge of the fairway channel of the bar.
From it the lightvessel bears S.W. by W. | W. 2^ or 3 miles, and inner
buoy, N.E. by E. ^ E. 2f miles. Good anchorage will be found 2 cables
from it, with the buoy bearing between S.S.E. and N. by E.

Imier Buoij is a spar mounted with a bamboo pole, painted hlack and white
in horizontal hands, visible 3 miles. It is in 10 ft., hard sand, on the inner
edge of the bar, close to the S.E. edge of West bank, and about 2| miles
N.E. by E. ^ E. from outer buoy. It must be left to the westward on
passing.

Another small spar buoy, surmounted by a basket, is moored about a mile
S.S.W. of beacon No. V., and marks the East bank and the position of Deep
Hole.

Fishing Stakes at Deep Hole. —During the winter months the Liau Eiver is
closed by ice. While the navigation is open the fishermen have three sets
of stakes off Deep Hole ; one set on the western side, and two on the
eastern, all situated below beacon No. V. As these have proved good marks
for the fairway channel, it has become necessary, on their removal previous
to the setting of the ice, to leave the outer stake of each set standing.

East Spit or No. V Beacon is a pole 38 ft. high, surmounted with two black
balls, with the figure " V " painted in white on the lower ball. It is
N.E. i E 3 miles from inner buoy, and stands on the East spit, a shoal that
projects to the southward from the bank of the river at its East puint of

1156 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.*

entrance, and is left dry at three-quarters ebb. This beacon marks the edge
of the bank, and with the inner buoy forms one of the leading marks in going
out or coming in.

Nodding Tommy or No. IV. Beacon is a white pole, 28 ft. high, mounted
with a red joss-pole box, on which its number "IV" is painted in black
figures. It is on the East bank of the riyer, at low water mark, on the South
side of a small creek, and about 2 miles from beacon No. Y. It marks the
Whale's Back, a dangerous shoal on the opposite bank from which it bears
East.

Middle Bank or No. III. Beacon is a red pole, 28 ft. high, mounted with a
black joss-pole box, on which is the figure "III" in white. It is on the
East bank of the river, at low water mark, about 2i miles from No. IV-
beacon, and it marks the centre of the Middle Ground Shoal, of 9 ft. water^
from which it bears East, and also points out the channel line.

Flagstaff or No. II. Beacon, mounting two trellised frames or basket balls,^
one above the oter, is 50 ft. high ; pole and frames black, lower part whit©
with its number " II " in black figures. It is on the East bank of the river,
planted on dry ground, 1^ mile from No. III. beacon.

West Bank or No. I. Beacon, also called Fish-house beacon, is a black pol&
mounted with a red joss-pole box, with the figure "I" on it in black. It
is on the West bank of the river, near some fishing houses, a short distance
from the bend that leads to the harbour, and is used as a leading mark to-
No. II. beacon, on the East bank, from which it is three-quarters of a mil&
distant.

Pilots. — Pilot vessels, having competent licensed pilots for the Liau ho,^
•will be met on nearing the bar. They carry the pilot flag, yellow over green,
horizontal, and the words " Licensed Pilot," with number, on the head of
the mainsail. There are twelve pilots, who are under the control of the
harbour master, under whose direction, also, vessels are berthed, and are
not allowed to shift without his permission. The pilot boats cruise within a
radius of 5 miles from the lightvessel, except in bad weather, when they take
shelter in Deep Hole.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Liau ho Bar, at 4'' 0™ \
springs rise 11 or 12 ft., neaps 7 or 8 ft. At Yin-koa, at S"*, and springs rise-
12 ft. The rise, especially at neaps, is much influenced by the wind, a
southerly breeze causing a rise above the normal height, while northerly
winds cause a fall below the same.

The BAR. — The channel into the Liau ho flows through the mud flat
which extends from 4 to 6 miles off the coast. The eastern point of entrance
to the river is 3 or 4 miles South of the western. The bar begins at 7 miles
S.W. of the eastern point, and carries for 2 miles depths of 7 to 9 ft., but ia
its centre is a bank 1 mile in length, of only 4 ft. Thence the channel takes
a north-easterly direction towards the East point of entrance, gradually

THE LIAU HO. 1157

deepening to 5 and 6 fathoms, but shoaling again to 18 ft., which depth
may be carried up to Yin-koa. The bar has somewhat altered since the sur-
vey of 1860.

The bar is difficult of approach, especially in cloudy weather or when no
ships or junks are lying outside, owing to the low land and the extent of the
flats. A vessel should not stand nearer in than 4 fathoms. "When in 6
fathoms, soft bottom, Tower Hill bearing S.S.E., she is in anchorage outside
the bar, when she must wait for a pilot ; or if drawing 10 to 12 ft., and it
being 3 hours flood, she may follow, on a course about N.E. by E., the large
five masted junks going in, which keep strictly in mid-channel. But as soon
as the vessel has passed the first fishing stakes, and having 4^ fathoms, soft
bottom, good holding ground (the bar is hard sand), she is inside the bar^
and ough^£ to anchor.

Anchorage. — Vessels arriving off the port, if requiring to anchor, should
bring-to near and to the eastward of the lightvessel ; or, if preferred, they
may proceed up to inner buoy, and anchor with the buoy bearing between
S.S.E. and N. by E., at 2 cables' distance.

Caution. — Vessels that have been kept too far off' shore, in order to give
the Bittern Shallows a wide berth, have been run amongst the dangerous
shoals, at the head of the gulf, westward of the Liau ho.

Crossing the Bar at slack water of the last of the flood, steer from the light-
vessel N.E. by E. I E., and pass half a cable to the north-westward of
entrance buoy. From this steer N.E. by E. ^'E,., which will lead 1^ cable
eastward of inner buoy, and stand on, on the same course, until you have
brought the latter buoy to bear AV. by S. 5 S. about 1| mile distant. Thence
a N.E. course for about 1 mile will bring you to Deep Hole (between the
fishing stakes), where there ie good and secure anchorage in 6J fathoms.

The tides set obliquely across the bar, the flood about N. by E., the ebb
about S. by W., at the rate of 2 to 4 knots. With this knowledge the
mariner will be able to steer so as to make good the courses above given.
When on the bar, to avoid the middle ground, do not bring inner buoy to
bear to the northward of N.E. ^ N. ; and to avoid the dangerous spit on the
western bank, do not bring it to bear to the eastward of E.N.E. When
above inner buoy, in order to avoid another projection from the western
bank, do not bring the same buoy to bear to the southward of S.W. by
W. ^ W. until your distance from it exceeds \\ mile. The western bank is
8teep-to ; the eastern bank shelves gradually.

From L)eep Hole, the Admiralty chart and a careful use of the lead will
enable you to reach the Yin-koa anchorage. Feel your way along the eastern
bank, passing within a cable of Nodding Tommy and Middle Bank beacons,
on which side the deepest water is to be found, until Flag-staff beacon is
reached, then strike across for Fish-house beacon, on the western shore, in
order to clear the shoal water off Everlasting Point. Then (still guided by the

1158 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULF.

lead) follow the North shore around the bend, until you are well abov&
Everlasting Point below Yingtze, when steer for the anchorage off the town.

At 12^ miles South eastward of the lightvessel is Kae-chu Point, low, with
a ruined tower on it. Some 10 and 12 ft. patches lie at 6 miles westward of
the point. Tower Hill, 9 miles S.S.W. of Kae-chu Point, is 420 feet high,
and has a conspicuous tower on its summit ; bearing S. by E., it clears the
Kae-chu patches to the westward. Vansittart Saddle, 10 miles to the S.W.
of Tower Hill, is a group of hills on a projecting angle of a great plain. A
large square tower stands to the eastward of them. Sand-\j Head is a hill 440
feet high, 5 miles S.S.W. from Vansittart Saddle. It is conspicuous, and a
good mark for the Bittern Shallows. Maocwell Point, in lat. 40° 2' N , long.
121° 50' E., is 6 miles S.W. from Sandy Point. It is the western extreme
of a hilly promontory, 4 miles in extent, rising from the extensive plains of
this part of the coast in varying heights to 970 ft., whilst 12 to 13 miles in-
land mountains of 2,000 to 3,000 ft. run parallel to the coast for 30 miles.
At 5 miles below Maxwell Point are the MacGoioan Cliffs, and the same dis-
tance S.W. from them is Schooner Rock.

Bittern Shallows are a collection of banks of coarse sand, 22 miles in
extext, fronting the coast, and marked by heavy breakers in N.W. and
West winds. Their most projecting point is 9 miles N.W. \ W. of Sandy
Head, where the most dangerous cluster lies. These outer banks carry 12
to 16 ft. water, several of the inner from 1 to 10 ft., and others 15 ft. The
lead will be the best guide to avoid these banks. Their most projecting
point, with 2 fathoms on it, has 13 and 14 fathoms close to, whilst the sea
outside has an uniform depth of 12 fathoms, mud ; in other parts the banks
are safe to approach to 10 fathoms, mud. A very conspicuous mountain,
2,880 ft. high, in line with the small cliffs East of Vansittart Saddle, S.E.,
will lead over the North tails of the banks in 4 J to 5 fathoms.

Glacis Point, 7 miles W.S.W. from Schooner Rock, is the termination of
a gentle slope from a hill 500 ft. high. Fort Head is 5 miles S.W. from
Glacis Point, and 4 cables off its S.W. side is the Coclced Hat, an islet 60 ft.
high. Fu-chu Point, the North point of Fu-chu Bay, is 4 miles S. by W. of
Fort Head, and between them is a shallow bay. Extending from it 1 mile to
the westward is a reef.

Fu-chu Bay is 1 1 miles across between Slaney Head and Fu-chu Point.
The approach has from 15 fathoms at 12 miles, to 5 fathoms at 3 to 5 miles
from the head of the bay, the soundings generally regular with mud bottom,
except off Slaney Head. The passage up to Fu-chu, at the head of the bay,
is between Square Island, a flat- top isle 110 ft. in height, on the North, and
Table Point, a projecting rocky head, on the South. The small town of
Fu-chu commands but little trade. It produces coal of little worth.

Hulu Shan Bay, the next bay southward of Fuchu Bay, affords anchor-
age iu deptlis under 9 fathoms, good holding ground of sand and clay, inside

SOCIETY BAY. 1159

its entrance points, which are 5f miles apart. Small vessels can find shelter
from N.W. on the North side of the bay, or from S.S.W. on the South side.
There are no supplies.

Society Bay is 37 miles wide at its entrance, between the North point of
Hulushan Bay on its North side and Cape Collinson on its South. To the
N.N.E. of Cape Collinson, between the distances of 10 and 17 miles, are
Milne aud Murchison Islands, and numerous shallow patches. At the N.E. head
of the bay is Port Adams, 18 miles in depth, which can be entered by vessels
drawino^ 20 to 21 ft. at high-water springs. A few supplies can be obtained
at the villages on its shores. Kinchan Bay is shallow, and forms the S.E.
part of Society Bay. At its head is the small walled town of the same
name.

Q,uang Tung Peninsula forms the South side of Society Bay. Its N.W. ex-
treme is Cape Collinson. At 6 miles W.N.W. of Cape Collinson is Si-hau-
sJian or Iron Island, 750 ft. high. Between Cape Collinson and Liau-ti-shau
Promontory, 13 miles to the southward, two bays are formed on the coast ;
the northern of these is named Louisa Bay, and has good anchorage in its
entrance in 6 fathoms, outside the small islands. At 4| miles westward of
the entrance of Louisa Bay is Beef Island, 400 ft. high, with some rocks off
its western side. Pigeon Bay, 5 miles to the southward of Louisa Bay, ha8
anchorage in 4 fathoms. The mountain on Liau-ti-shan promontory is 1,500
feet high. Port Arthur, 5 miles E.N.E. of this mountain has rocks on either
side of its entrance, and a military station on its N.E. shore.

Encounter Rock, in lat. 38° 33' 50" N., long. 121° 40' E., is about 70 yards
in length East and West, has 24 and 26 fathoms close to. From the eastern
or largest rock, which is 1 1 ft. above high water, the Cap bears N. ^ W,
the summit of Sanshan tau N.N.E. |- E. ; Prominent Peak N. by W. | W,
Sampson Peak, N. by E. | E. ; Liau-ti-shan summit, N.W. by W. J W
and Round Island, E. by N. 25 miles.

Cap Island, 17 miles eastward of Port Arthur, and 5 miles off shore, is
about 400 ft. high, and slopes towards the East. Bound Island, in lat. 38°
40' N., long. 122° 11' E., is small, round-topped, 200 ft. high, and is gene-
rally sighted when bound to Ta-lien-whan Bay from the southward. The
soundings at half a mile from it are 25 fathoms, mud and shells.

Ta-lien-whan Bay is an extensive inlet, square in form, being 6 miles
wide and 6 deep, with three smaller inlets, named Victoria, Junk, and Hand
Bays, branching from its head ; there is also a small bight, Odin Cove, on
its eastern shore. The holding ground is excellent, the eastern side of the
bay affording the best sheltered anchorage in summer. Its principal ap-
proach is 5 miles wide, between the West Entry Point and the two Sanshan
Islands. There is also a passage 1 mile wide between these islands ; and
another 2 miles wide between the northern island and the eastern point of
entrance. Both of these channels, and the main entrance, appear to be clear

1160 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LTAU-TUNG GULF.

of danger ; but in passing between the two islands it would be prudent to
steer a mid-channel W.N.W. course through, so as to clear the 6-fathom
mud-banks, one lying S.E. by S. 8 cables from the North Island, and the
other East 8 cables from the North hill of the South Island, which have not
been examined, and on which there may be less water.

The flat country at the foot of the hills surrounding Ta-lien-whan, ap-
pears to be good arable land, well cultivated. Large quantities of a kind of
dwarf Indian corn, millet, and wheat (kaouliang) are grown on it. Vege-
tables are scarce, and from the latter grain above mentioned a spirit is
distilled.

Odin Cove lies 3 miles North of the North Sanshan Island, and just within
the north-eastern entrance point of Ta-lien-whan Bay. In approaching it
care should be taken to avoid a rock lying a mile oflF shore, and 3 miles N.E.
of North Sanshan Island. The best anchorage is on the South side of Odin
Cove, the northern shore being dangerous to approach. A few supplies may
be obtained, and on the northern shore of the cove water may be got.

The Blonde Group, or Wai-chang shan, lying about 45 miles eastward of
Ta-lien Bay, consists of one large island and four smaller islands north-
eastward of it. They are all much the same in charac^^er ; undulating ridges
with deep ravines, bordered with high cliflPs or ragged shores, but destitute
of any prominent feature when seen from a distance. Shi-siau is a remark-
able rock 40 ft. high, which appears as a junk under sail, and lies 5 miles
southward of the Blonde Group. Hai-yun taxi, 15 miles eastward of the
Blonde Group, 5 miles in extent North and South, lies isolated at the S.E.
part of the Blonde archipelago. The summit of this island is a gently
sloping peak, 1,320 ft. high.

The Ta-hu-ian or Ta-yang ho, has its entrance in lat. 39° 47' N., long.
123° 40' E. At 12 miles above its mouth is the town of Ta-hu san, the sea-
port next in magnitude to Yingtse (Newchwang), and like that place pos-
sessing many large native warehouses.

The approaches to the river are shallow, and large vessels can only ap-
proach to within 6 miles of the entrance. About 4 miles off the entrance are
two small islands, namely, Ta-lu-tan on the South side and Sian-lu-tan on
the East side. The channel into the river lies between these two islands ;
the channel West of Ta-lu-tan is not practicable even for boats. The Ger-
man vessel of war Ariadne was piloted to an anchorage in 4^ fathoms, 1^
mile S.E. by S. from the peak of Ta-lu-tan ; shoal water extends South and
West of Ta-lu-tan a distance of over 3 miles. A depth of 4 fathoms is found
at 4J miles S.W. of the island.

The boats of the Ariadne, in July 1876, ascended this river without diffi-
culty as far as the town of Taku-schan. A depth of IJ ft. was found on the
bar at low water, but it is considered possible that the bar may dry at low
water spring tides. Inside the bar the least water foirnd was 7 feet, with a

THE KOREA. 1161

general depth of 8 ft. At the anchorage off the town there is a depth of 8
feet at low water, bottom soft mud, on which vessels drawing less than 10 ft.
may ground. The banks of the river from the entrance to the town of
Taku-schan are low, and in some places submerged at high water ; the
stream is 330 yards wide at the town. Spring tides rise 20 ft.

The population of Taku-schan consists of 30,000 or 40,000. Commerce
with Korea, prohibited previous to 1873, has commenced, and is at present
very active. The exports consist chiefly of bean cake and timber. Silk of
a coarse inferior quality is exported in small quantities.

The KOREA is separated from China on the N.W. by the Tulu hiang,
the estuary of which river is in about lat. 39° 50' N., long. 124^ 10' E. Some
trade commenced in the year 1876 between Japan and the port of Fusan in
Corea.

The coast eastward of the Yalu kiang appears to trend to the S.E. as far
as Ping Yang inlet, and is skirted by numerous islands, the whole of which
are as yet unexplored. Banks with shoal water on them extend a long
distance to seaward of these islands, and vessels navigating in this locality
should, use great caution, as banks of rock and sand rise precipitously from
the water.

The S. W. coast of Korea and the islands lying off it are but little known.
The passages between the islands have been traversed by many vessels, and
all the outer groups fixed with tolerable precision.

ftuelpart Island, about 40 miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 17 miles
wide, is of considerable height, and detached from the islands which face the
S.W. coast of Korea. Its general outline is that of an oval, with iev^ deep
indentations to affect its regularity. Its general appearance, as viewed from
the sea, is inviting, there being a pleasing variety of hill and dale, and oa
the northern and eastern sides much cleared land, cultivation rising probably
to the level of 2,000 ft. Rock reported in lat. 33° N., long. 126° 13' E.

Quelpart, throughout its extent, has but one safe anchorage, and that is
at its East end, off the southern bay of Beaufort Island, which here forms
a channel with Quelpart, about 2 miles wide, and through which the current
sets strong to the southward. The second temporary roadstead is off the
city on the northern shore of the island, but a vessel would be compelled to
seek an offing at the first symptom of a N.W. breeze.

The third anchorage, at the western extreme of Quelpart, within Eden
Island, affords shelter from North (round East) to N.W., and offers an
escape to leeward if requisite. A fourth temporary but dangerous anchorage
is off Hooper Island, near the city on the southern shore ; but this is open
from West to S.E., and is too confined to admit of beating out, should wind
and sea come in suddenly.

Off the South coast of Eoiea^ between Maisonneuve Island and Kuper

I. A. 7 I

1162 YANGTSE KIANG TO THE LIAU-TUNG GULF.

Harbour on the West, and Castle Islands and Herschel Island on the East,
are about 100 conspicuous islands, from 300 to upwards of 2,000 feet in
height, more than two-thirds of which are inhabited ; and including the
smaller islands, the whole number, more than 200, are contained in a space
of between 1,500 and 2,000 square miles. Speaking generally of this ar-
chipelago, it is bold, presenting very few hidden dangers. All these off-
lying islands have been examined, but the mainland of the South coast of
Korea is yet uusurveyed.

Port Hamilton, lying about N.N.E. ^ E. 38 miles from the N.E. end of
Quelpart, consists of two large islands, deeply indented, the northern points
of which nearly meet, and which, with a third and smaller island, Observa-
tory Island, situated between their south-eastern points, form a spacious and
well-sheltered harbour, named Port Hamilton, the main entrance to which
is at the S.E. part of the group. These islands may be readily distinguished
from the numerous clumps of islets and rocks in the neighbourhood, by their
greater size and massive bold appearance, as well as their peculiar position.
Except at a great distance from the south-eastward, they invariably make as
one island.

Within Observatory Island a vessel may be safely hove down for repair.
Wood is scarce — fresh water is plentiful and good, and easily embarked.
Eish may be caught with the seine.

On entering the port, the only danger that does not show is the Saracen
Bock, with 7 ft. on it, lying at the entrance, 2 cables eastward of the East
end of Observatory Island. Vessels may anchor anywhere within the port.
The holding ground is so good as to render it difficult to trip the anchor
after a few days.

Chosan or Tsau-liang-hai Harbour, is formed on the S.E. coast of Korea,
in lat. 35° 6' N. The entrance is between Cape Young on the North and
Cape Vashon on the South, which bear from each other N.N.E. J E. and
S.S.W. i W., and are 3 miles apart; from thence the harbour trends in
a N.W. direction 4J miles, and is from 1 to 2 miles wide. At 3 miles
within the entrance there are some rocks always above water.

No perceptible trade is carried on in the harbour. A few boats were
occasionally seen moving about, but their cargoes generally consisted of fire-
wood and straw. The Japanese of the garrison, some 250 or 300 men, have
but little intercourse with the natives, and apparently hold them in supreme
contempt.

The coast of the Korea will be found fully described in the China Pilot,
published by the Admiralty. To give a full description of a coast seldom or
never visited by European vessels is thought to be beyond the scope of this
work. We therefore give the above brief description, and proceed to de-
scribe the coats, &c., of the Japanese Archipelago.

The coast to the northward is described in the North Pacific Directory.

CHAPTEE XXY.

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

The celebrated and long mysterious traveller, Marco Polo, was the first
to announce to the western world the existence of the rich and powerful
island of Xipangu, now known to be Japan. In 1542 a Portuguese, Mendez
Pinto, wast cast by a storm on its shores, and a Portuguese settlement from
Malacca was soon afterwards made on Kiusiu. In June, 1598, some citizens
of Rotterdam fitted out a small fleet of five ships to trade in the Indian Ar-
chipelago, and injure, as much, as possible, the commerce and power of Spain.
Among several Englishmen in this fleet, were William Adams, of Gillingham,
near Rochester, and Timothy Shotter, who had accompanied the famous
Cavendish in his circumnavigation. The venture was pre-eminently unfor-
tunate. Only one ship, and that the smallest, the Joyous Message, commanded
by Siebold de Weert, returned to Holland. Two of the others were de-
i^royed, and the fourth, in which were these two Englishmen, reached Japan
a mere wreck. They were taken prisoners, and, after some confinement,
Adams was taken into the confidence of the Emperor ; the rest departed ;
He was raised to great honours ; became of first importance in the political
and commercial affairs of the empire ; but did not succeed to the extent of
his intentions, having gained privileges only for the Dutch, who have stu-
diously avoided mention of his part in their establishment. Some extensive
privileges were also granted, at his instigation, to the English East India
Company, to establish a factory at Eirando.*

As is well known, the only port allowed to be open to foreigners, and this
permission was limited to the Dutch and Chinese, was the Port of Nagasaki,
or rather for the Dutch, the Island of Dezima, lying before it. But the
Japanese maintained a rigid exclusiveness, and but little was known to
Europe about the country. Without enumerating the older authors, the
principal work on Japan was the collection from the notices of the Dutch
presidents, by Dr. Ph. Fr. van Siebold, who visited the country in the period
between 1823-30, a magnificent work, worthy of any nation.

In the year 1853, July 8th, Commodore Perry, U.S.N., appeared off

* The first English who visited it were with Capt. Saris, who came to the relief of Adams
from England, in 1611, arriving at Firando June 9th, 1613.

1164 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

the entrance to Yedo Bay, with two large steam frigates and two sloops of
war. He ostensibly sought at first only to abolish the barbarous Japanese
laws, which consigned shipwrecked seamen to death, and their vessels to
destruction. The steady resistance to any intercourse, overawed, however,
by the presence of this formidable force, gradually gave way, and some con-
cessions were granted before the departure of the fleet, which left with a
promise, or menace, from Commodore Perry, that he intended to return for
a more definite answer with a " larger fleet " in the following year. Accord-
ingly, on February 12th, 1854, a squadron of nine war vessels appeared in
the Bay of Yedo, and after skilful negotiation a treaty of friendship was
concluded between the Tycoon and the United States, and permission was
granted to locate a consul at Simoda, an insignificant place at the South
extreme of the Idsu Peninsula, on the "West side of Yedo Bay.

The second stage of this international negotiation was reached by Mr.
Harris, the U.S. diplomat, who, by unremitting zeal, contrived to enter Yedo
at the end of 1857, not to leave it till April, 1858, with the treaty of com-
merce framed. This great step was followed by similar concessions being
granted to the principal European powers ; and that with Great Britain was
ratified at Yedo, July 11th, 1859. After all these apparent victories, it was
discovered that these treaties were illegal, having been made with the Tycoon
of the period, whereas they should have been ratified by the Mikado, but this
was remedied by the appearance of the allied fleet from China and the subse-
quent full recognition of the rights of the external world to trade at various
ports. Of the subsequent troubles nothing can be said here. The works of
iSir Eutherford Alcock, Captain Sherard Osborn, R.N., &c., &c., will supply
all that can be required.

The empire of Japan is composed of four large islands, Kiusiu, Sikok,
Nipon,* and Yezo, and numerous smaller islands. Nipon, the largest and
most important of these, and that which gives its name to the whole empire,
is more than 700 miles in length N.E. and S.W., and its breath varies from
50 to 150 miles. South of Nipon, and separated from it by a narrow chan-
nel, is Kiusiu. Lying N.E. of Kiusiu, and eastward of the South extreme
of Nipon, is the island of Sikok, about 130 miles in length. It is separated
from Kiusiu by the Boungo Channel, and with Kiusiu and the western part
of Nipon forms a basin or inland sea named Seto Uchi. North of Nipon,
and separated from it by the Strait of Tsugar, is the large island of Yezo, a
conquest and colony of Japan. Its form is that of an irregular triangle.

* Nipon is applied in Japan to the whole empire. In the two words of the Chinese cha-
racters which compose it, Jih Fun, it means the place or rising of the sun. The Japanese
soften the letter in*^^o n, and so make it Ni Pun, the Dutch spelling it Jeh Pun, their j
corresponding with our y. The English, giving the harsher sound to j, call it Japan ; so
Jinido should be produced Yedo for the same reason, and is hereafter spelt so.

THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO. 1165

The chief towns of Japan are now all joined with each other and with
Europe by electric telegraph ; railways are springing up near the chief ports,
and coal is being worked on European principles. A good indication of the
progress made by Japan in the last few years is afforded by the rapid light-
ing of the coast. Of the 39 lights now exhibited not one was shown previous
to the year 1869, a few coal fires only marking the coast at night. The
population of the empire numbers about 33,000,000, and there are about
3,000 foreign residents in the country, nearly half of whom are English.
Imports at the various treaty ports in 1876 amounted in value to about
£5,000,000, and exports to £5,500,000, chiefly silk (including eggs and
cocoons), tea, and miscellaneous produce.

Treaty Ports. — The following are the ports opened to British subjects by
treaty, between Her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland and
the Mikado of Japan : — Kanagawa (including Yedo and Yokohama), in the
Gidf of Tedo ; Nagasaki, on the West coast of Kiusiu ; Hiogo and Oosaka,
in the Isumi nada (eastern part of the inland sea) ; Niegata, on the N.W.
coast of Nipon ; and Hakodate, on the South coast of the Island of Yezo.

Climate. — The following observations upon this subject, connected with
Japan, are made by Van Siebold : — "In speaking of ice, frost, and snow,
within 32° of the equator, we should consider the geographic position of the
Japanese Islands, and cite an observation which has been more than once
made, and at last confirmed by Alex, de Humboldt. The eastern part of
Europe, and the immense continent of Asia, are vastly more cold, under the
game latitude, than western Europe, making allowance for the greater or less
elevation above the sea level. The climate of islands being much milder
than that of continents, it can scarcely be comprehended that the temperature
should be lower in Japan than those European countries under the same
latitude. But the cause of this contradiction is found in the low temperature
of Asia, which, surrounding the Japanese and Kurile Islands on the West
and North, has a very decided influence on their climate. From the pi'oxi-
mity of the continent, and the winds blowing ofi" that coast during a portion
of the year, the cold arises which prevails in Japan, particularly in the North
and N.W. Thus in lat. 32° N. the thermometer desends on the coast to 30"^
and 29° Fahr. It freezes to several lines in thickness, and snow falls that
remains on the ground for several days. In lat. 36° the lakes, as those of
Suwa on the Sinano, are covered with a bed of ice, which, between 38° and
40°, becomes thick enough for the river to be crossed on foot. In the island
of Tsusima (lat. 34° 12' N., long. 126° 55' E.) rice will not grow ; near
Matsmae, in the Island of Yezo, wheat returns but a very poor harvest ; and
on Cape Soja (lat. 45° 21' N., long. 140° 29' E.) the wild Ainos, a vigorous
race, are obliged to retire into caverns, to preserve themselves from the in-
tolerable rigour of winter. On the other hand, the S.E. and eastern sides,
protected from the freezing winds of Asia by high chains of mountains,

1166 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

which traverse these great Islands of Kiusiu, Sikok, and Nipon, in a direc-
tion parallel to the continent, have a more fertile and more temperate climate.
In those parts of the country between lat. 31° and 34", the palm, the banana,
myrtle, and other plants of the torrid zone, are found. In some parts the
sugar-cane is successfully cultivated, and they gather two rice harvests each
year. The environs of Sendai, a city in lat. 38° 16' N. long. 138° 36' E.,
near Niegata, produce this grain in such abundance, that, notwithstanding
their northern position, they are in reality, as they are called, the granaries
of Yedo, the most populous city of the country. But it is more particularly
in the rigorous season, which lasts from the commencement of January to
the end of February, that this difference between the western and eastern
shore of Japan becomes most remarkable. At Dezima (Nagasaki) for ex-
ample, in lat. 32° 45' N., long. 127° 31' E., the thermometer marks 45° Fahr. ;
while at Yedo, in lat. 35° 41', long. 137° 22' E., it rises to 56° ; so that the
position of the capital, more easterly by 9° 51' than the factory, raises its
temperature higher by 11°, although it is only 3° nearer the pole. Thus in
the two months of winter in which these observations were made, the coasts
facing the Asiatic continent were exposed for thirty-seven days consecutively
to the freezing winds from N.W. and North. This circumstance explains,
besides, why the white mountain fSirojamaJ, which is on the western coast
of Nipon, in lat. 36° is covered with perpetual snow at 8,200 feet above the
sea; and why Fusi-jama, at the eastern extremity of the island, with its summit
at 12,450 feet, remains without snow for months together.

" During the hot weather in July and August, when the winds blow from
South and S.E., this disproportion in the temperature disappears, and the
mean height of the thermometer for this season is 79° at Dezima, and 76° at
Yedo. On the South and S.E. coasts, then refreshed by these winds, it
hardly exceeds 85 ; nevertheless in the South and S.E. parts of Kiusiu, and
chiefly in the bays sheltered from the breezes, it often rises to 90 and 98°,
and sometimes even to 100°."

At Hakodadi, the climate in winter is variable. In the winter of 1859 —
60°, the greatest depression of the thermometer was 12°. The character of
the winter season is uneven, and acts prejudicially on the health, in conse-
quence of the great variability of the atmosphere, thaws and sharp frosts
alternating. North-westerly winds blow for four months, and snow fell in
the winter of 1859 daily for six weeks. Sir R. Alcock says the winter ia
almost Siberian, with long continued and heavy falls of snow, the thermo-
meter standing many degrees below zero.

Fogs are very prevalent on the coasts of Japan, especially in the northern
parts, and thunderstorms are frequent. In June and July, they occur fre-
quently in the Korea Strait ; further to the North they envelope the coasts
of Manchuria till the middle of July.

Earthquakes. — The whole region of the Japanese Islands is volcanic, and

THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO. 1167

many of the eruptions are fraught with extreme danger to ships. At Yedo,
one occurred in August, 1783, exceeding in its hoi-rors and wide spread deso-
lation that of Lisbon. Another occurred at Yedo on the 10 Nov. 1855,
which is said to have caused the destruction of 100,000 dwellings and 54
temples, and the death of 30,000 persons.

In 1854 the town of Simoda was reduced to ruins, and the Russian frigate
Diana nearly wrecked in the harbour, being whirled many times round her
anchors, at one time aground, at another in many fathoms depth. She was
then greatly injured, and was subsequently lost in an inexplicable submarine
tornado, whilst in tow of a multitude of Japanese boats which deserted her
suddenly at some, to them, well known warning.

Simabara, in Kiusiu, is also a locality of terrible earthquakes, one of which
is said to have altered the whole feature and coast line of the neighbouring
province.

The Japanese Current, or Kuro Siwo, as it is called by the Japanese in
one point of its course, is an immense stream which rushes part the southern
coasts of the Japanese Archipelago towards the N.E. and is exactly analo-
gous to the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic. It has been observed by
every voyager in these regions ; and, like the Atlantic Stream, may be traced
to a great distance to the eastward, and evidences of this drift have been
frequently found on the American coast, as in the remains of junks, or of
these vessels with their crews being drifted on to the American territories, as
has been previously related.

But the Pacific current differs from the Atlantic Stream in not being con-
fined in a narrow channel at its outset, and in the strongest part of its
course. Hence its velocity and direction are not so constant, and some great
variations in the current have been experienced, and these, too, without any
apparent cause. Thus there can be no dependance placed on its rate or
direction, and inshore it is certainly controlled or altered by tidal action. In
the North Pacific Directory this remarkable stream will be noticed more at
length, in the section specially devoted to currents.

Survey. — The Japanese Archipelago has never been properly surveyed.
Some portions have been minutely examined, especially the vicinities of the
treaty ports where European commerce has hitherto been allowed. In addi-
dition to the surveys made by the officers of the American squadron in 1853-
4, and the British fleet in 1863, there are various portions derived from the
surveys of Commander J. Ward, R.N., in the Rifleman; of Commander
Brooker, E.N., in the Sylvia; and especially of Commander C. Bullock, R.N.,
in the Serpent ; and of Captain St. John, in H.M.S. Sylvia. All these and
others have been connected together by a most remarkable map. During
the political negotiations this perfect representation of the empire was de-
livered to our representatives, and it was found to be a regular trigonome-
trical survey of 6 miles to an inch, and so accurate that, when tested by the

1168 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

surveyors, it was found that very great reliance could be placed on it. Such
a geographical work deserves especial mention.*

The Luchu, Loo Choc, or Liu Kiu Group lies to the north-eastward of the
Meiaco Sima's (see pages 1048 — 1051 , about 120 miles from the northern
island of the latter group to the southern island of the former. It consists
of three large islands — Okinawa sima (Great Lu-chu), to the 6.W. ; Kaki-
rouma, in the centre ; and Oho sima to the N.E., between which and in their
vicinity are numerous smaller islands, some of which form clusters, the
whole, with some outlying rocks, lying between the parallels of 26° N. and
28^ 46' N., and the meridians of 126' 42' E. and 130=" 16' E.

The inhabitants of the Liu-kiu Islands are both friendly and hospitable ;
their chief resides at Sheudi, the capital, and formerly paid tribute both to
China and to Satsum, a powerful Japanese Daimio. They have but little
commerce, except amongst the neighbouring islands of the group.

Okinawa Sima (Great Lu-chu Island, the largest of the group, is about 56
miles long, N.E. and S.W., preserves a tolerably uniform breadth of about
10 or 12 miles. Napha-Kiang, on its 8.W. side, is the principal seaport of
the island, and perhaps the only one possessing the privileges of a port of
entry.

There are three passages leading into Napha-Kiang Road, viz., the South,
the Oar, and the North channels. When sailing into this anchorage great
care should be used to avoid the numerous reefs and rocky patches which
surround it.

Heber Reef, reported as a rock about 5 feet above water, surrounded by
reefs, lying 6 or 8 miles W.S.W. from Cape Yakimu, the South end of Oki-
nawa, has been inserted on the charts in lat. 26° 2' N., long. 127° 34f' E.
Its existence is doubtful, as its description agrees in every particular with
Hall's Reef.

Hall's Reef is a large, circular, rocky patch, a part of which is above
water ; it lies 7 miles W. by N. i N. from the S.W. point of Okinawa sima.

Komisang is very irregular in shape, about 6 miles long, and the same in
width; its northern peak is 1,108 feet in height, and that to the southward
1,028 feet; the western side of the island being fringed with reefs. Eli%a-

* There is a sad story in connexion ■with this map. It is related in Commodore Perry's
" Narrative," page 88. The story is thus told by a modern writer on Japan ; — " Von
Siebold had been with Colonel Struler, the Dezima chief, to Yedo ; the Japanese astrono-
mer, Takahasi Zakusaimon, had, in violation of the law, furnished him with a copy of a
recently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having become, from
some cause, offended with the astronomer, denounced him to the authorities. An investi-
gation followed, which lasted a year. Von Siebold was banished from Japan ; and Taka-
hasi and the draughtsman who accused him, both committed suicide." This occurred prior
to the commencement of the American expedition in 1853,

LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS. Ilfi9

leth Reef, very dangerous, extends 6 miles to the eastward of Komisang.
Tu sima, in lat. 26° 35J' N., long. 126° 51' E., lies N. by E. J E., \Z\ miles
from the North peak of Komisang. It is a rocky islet about 60 feet high,
one-quarter of a mile in extent, with a reef surrounding it.

Germantown Eeef. — The U.S. ship Germantoicn, in 1859, struck on a coral
reef said to lie in lat. 28° 16' N., long. 129° 58' E. From the shoalest spot
found, 6 feet, the highest terrace on Kikai sima bore N.E. ^ E. 6 or 7 miles.
The reef is about a mile long in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and half a
mile wide.

Another shoal spot was found lying North 2 miles from the centre of this
reef, with apparently a clear passage between. Reefs were also seen from
aloft, extending from one to two miles from the S.W. and S.E. points of
Kikai sima.

In the American chart Germantown Eeef is placed 2\ miles S. by W. ^
W. from the S.W. extreme of Kikai simai, or in lat. 28° 14f' N., long. 129°
53' E. ; and there is another danger, named Marsh Eeef, 1^ mile southward
of it.

Marsh Reef, placed on the charts in lat. 28' 14' N., long. 129° 55' E., was
reported by Mr. Marsh in 1853 as lying 7 miles S.W. of Kikai sima, ex-
tending N.N.E. and S.S.W. about 3 miles, with 12 ft. on it at high water.

Sandon Rocks, about 33 ft. above the sea, and surrounded by sunken
dangers, lie in lat. 28° 45' N., long. 129° 47^' E.

The LINSCHOTEN ISLANDS, or Cecille Archipelago (so called in the
Prench charts after Admiral Cecille, by whose directions the islands were
examined), extend from lat. 28" 49' N. to 30° 6' N., and from long. 129° to
130° 3' E. They consist of 12 islands and rocks, some of which are inhabited,
and there appears to be many safe channels between them. The mariner is,
however, cautioned not to place too much dependence either on their con-
figurations or positions as shown on the chart of this part of the ocean, for
they are by no means correct ; they are from the Japanese as collated by
Siebold, and from detached surveys and corrections by English, French, and
American navigators. The French corvette La Sabine examined them in the
year 1846. As their character will be readily understood from the chart we
give only a description of a few of the islands near which dangers exist.

Yoko Sima, rising to the height of 1,700 ft. above the sea, is an extinct
volcano, the highest part of which is in lat. 28° 48' N., long. 129° 2' E. The
bank on which the Pacific mail steamship Oregonian is supposed to have
struck is E.N.E. | E. distant 300 yards from the South point of Yoko-sima.
Kutsino Sima is 4 miles long N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; its peak, which is 2,230
feet above the sea, is in lat. 29° 59' N., long 129° 56' E. There is probably
no safe passage between Kutsino and Naka, the next island to the southward.
Breakers are reported 7 miles N.N.W. ^ W. from N.W. point of Kutsino.
I. A- 7 k

1170 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Firase, or Blake Beef, consists of several islets and rocks, extending about
3 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction; the highest islet, 92 feet above the
sea, is in lat. 30= 4' N., long 130° 3' E.

Jffenty Beef, on which the sea was seen breaking heavily, has been re-
ported as lying N.W. f N. 3f miles from the North point of Kutsino sima,
and about \^\ miles to the westward of Eirase.

COLNETT STRAIT, which separates the Linschoten group from the group
to the northward, appears preferable to Van Diemen Strait for vessels bound
from China to Japan ; Yakuno sima, being lofty and steep-to, is an excel-
lent mark ; besides which better weather is generally experienced in this
strait than in the latter.

Iledu&a Beef, reported as being indicated by discoloured water and high
breakers, 2 miles in extent North and South, and lying 8 miles to the north-
ward of Eirase, is inserted on the chart in lat. 30° 13' N., long. 130° 4' E. ;
it has not since been noticed, but if it exists it is a dangerous impediment
to the navigation of Colnett Strait.

Tanega Sima, the most eastern of this group, is 32 miles long, and off the
S.E. point of the island is a conspicuous detached rock, 80 feet in height,
named S.E. Eock.

A reef of rocks showing above water, and a shoal about 2 miles S.S.E. from
them, are reported as lying nearly 7 miles from the S.E. point of Tanega
sima. This reef has been inserted on the charts 5 miles South of the S.E.
Eock, in lat. 30° 15' N., long. 131° 2|' E., but its position is very uncertain.

Vincennes Strait between Yakuno sima and Tanega sima is 10 miles wide
in the narrowest part.

Seriphos or Omuru Bock is marked on the French charts as a rock under
water, in lat. 30° 49' N., long. 130° 45' E.

Take Sima (Apollos Island), in lat. 30° 48|' N., long. 130° 261' E., is about
2 miles in circumference and 816 feet high. A rocky spit extends 2 J cables
from its East extremity, and a dangerous shoal has been reported a short
distance North of the island.

Iwoga Sima (Volcano Island on French chart), is an active volcano ; its
highest peak, 2,469 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 47' N., long. 130° 19' E.
A pinnacle rock, marking the centre of a reef, a mile in extent, lies a mile
North of the centre of Iwoga Sima. Some rocks and reefs extend about
three-quarters of a mile from the East and N.E. points of the island, and
about half a mile off its S.E. side lie two rocks, estimated as 50 and 40 feet
high respectively.

Cowose or Powhattan Beef a dangerous reef in lat. 30° 41' N., long. 130°
19' E., was discovered by the U.S. frigate Powhattan in January, 1860.
From the centre rock, about 18 ft. above the sea, the S.W. point of Iwoga
sima bore N.W. ; the East point N. I W., and the East point of Take sima
N.E. h N.

VAN DIEMEN STE AIT. 1171

Other rocks were seen awash, or a few feet above water, stretching aut
about three-quarters of a mile from the centre rock.

Use or Trio Roehs are three distinct islets of about an equal height ; the
centre islet, 206 ft. above the sea, is in lat. 30° 45' N., long. 130° 7' E.

Kuro Sima (St. Clair Island on the French chart), is about 3 miles long
(East and West). It is an active volcano, and its peak rises to the height
of 2,160 feet above the sea, and its centre is in lat. 30° 50' N., long.
129° 561' E.

Kusahi Sima {Ingersoll or Morrison Each) are eight in number, and extend
N.E. and S.W. about 5J miles ; the highest, in the centre, 468 ft. above the
sea, is in lat. 30° 51' N., long. 129^ 26' E., and visible in clear weather at 25
miles.

VAN DIEMEN STRAIT lies between Kiusiu Island on the North, and
Iwoga sima. Take sima. Make sima, and Tanega sima on the S.W. and
South. It is clear of shallows, with the exception of a shoal spot of 8 fathoms,
reported about 2^ miles to the southward of Satano misaki, the South point
of Kiusiu, and consequently safe. Making this strait from the westward,
Mount Horner, on Kiusiu, 3,069 ft. high, and the peak of Iwoga sima, 2,469
feet high, form two conspicuous landmarks. The only drawback to the navi-
gation of this channel is the heavy weather and thick atmosphere usually met
with off Satano misaki ; the Japan stream setting strong through this strait
at all times causes the latter to become a serious disadvantage, which is, how-
ever, somewhat lessened by the light now exhibited on the above cape.

sdUTH AND EAST COASTS OF KIUSIU AND SIKOK.

SATANO MISAKI or Cape CMchakoff, the southern point of Kiusiu and
of the Japanese empire, is situated in lat. 30° 58' 45" N., long. 130^ 40' 15 'E.
It is about 650 ft. in height, the mountains at the back, from which it is a
spur, rising to a considerable elevation, at some points between 2,000 and
3,000 ft. A small island and several small detached rocks lie off it. This
cape is well known to vessels trading to Japan, and has attained celebrity
from the fact that almost constant bad weather is experienced in its vicinity,
violent gales with a thick murky atmosphere rendering the passage through
Van Diemen Strait at times somewhat perilous. At about 2^ miles S.S.W.
from the cape a shoal spot of 8 fathoms has been reported. Heavy tide races
occur off the cape.

LIGHT.— Situated on a small island about 300 yards from the cape, ex-
hibits, at an elevation of 200 ft. above the sea, a fixed bright light of the first
order, obscured landward between N.N.W. i W. to N.E. by E. £ E., and is
visible in clear weather from a distance of 21 miles. The lighthouse is 35

1172 THE JAPANI!SE AECHIPELAGO.

feet in height, constructed of iron, octagonal shaped, and painted white, and
is in lat 30° 58' 30" N., long. 130° 40' E.

The COAST for 140 miles to the north-eastward, comprising the whole of
the East coast of Kiusiu, is very little known.

Osprey Breakers (1864). — The position assigned to these breakers is lat.
31° 27' N., long. 131° 40' E. Captain Edmond has frequently passed thia
locality, but has not seen the breakers ; he therefore considers that the ap-
pearance of breakers was caused by a current overfall.

Nelly Rock, reported in 1863 by the British barque of that name, waa
afterwards unsuccessfully searched for by Commander Bullock, in H.M.S.
iSerpent, in 1866. It has, however, again been reported 2 miles westward of
its first assigned position by Captain W. B. Andrews, of the Peninsular and
Oriental Company's steam-ship Avoea, in 1873. The rock is locally known
by the name of Ocfo, and lies 3 miles E. by N. from Cape Cochrane, in lat.
31° 48' N., long. 131° 35' E. It is very steep- to, and breaks in bad weather.

Numa Sima or Hoso Sima Harbour, (lat. 32° 23'N., long. 131° 43' approx.)
is a secure and well sheltered anchorage for a large number of vessels. The-
entrance is open to the N.E., and thence extends in a westerly directioa
about a mile to the head of the harbour. During typhoons the winds at East
and S.E. are usually the strongest ; Hoso Sima Harbour would thus afford
shelter during the season when those storms occur. At the head of the bay
a vessel in distress might safely be beached. The harbour is apparently
clear of danger.

The SOUTH COAST of SIKOK, from Isa saki at the eastern entrance tO'
the Boungo Channel to I. sima at the western entrance to the Kii Channel,
is also as yet unsurveyed. This coast is about 150 miles in extent, and ia
divided by the projecting peninsula, of which Murato saki is the extreme
point, into two bights, that to the westward being the deepest, broken in
outline, with several deep indentations which may, when examined, prov©
useful harbours of refuge ; four have been mentioned, two only of which are-
described as good harbour.

The coast of Sikok between Ootzu saki and Ko sima no hana forms a
deep bight 3J miles wide between these points, and 2^ miles in depth. From'
it two inlets extend farther to the northward and eastward, forming the
harbours of Susaki and Nomi, the latter in lat. 33° 23' 18" N., long. 133° 17'
48" E., in the S.E. part of the bight. Vessels entering Nomi Harbour should
keep the northern shore on board.

SOUTH-EAST COAST of NIPON.— Prom Siwo Misaki, the southern point
of Nipon, the coast trends to the north-eastward for 75 miles as far as Cape
Sima. The whole of this coast is bold and mountainous, the high coast
ranges attaining an altitude of 2,000 ft. The hills are thickly wooded and
very undulating, those immediately in the vicinity of the coast being steep

SOUTH COAST OF NIPON. 1173:

and conical shaped. Several good harbours of refuge are found, which have
been described as follows : —

00-SIMA HARBOUR is formed between Oo sima and the East side of
Siwo misaki, the extreme South point of Nipon, which, with its lighthouse,
is described hereafter, and which is connected to the mainland by a low
isthmus. The harbour has two anchorages, one in the bay on the S.W.
side of Oo sima, completely sheltered, but the water rather deep ; the other
in 4 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom and good holding ground, off the village of
Hasingui on the mainland in the northern part of the harbour.

This very eligible harbour is largely resorted to by windbound junks, and
it offers every facility for repairs and replenishing supplies. There are three
villages, two on the mainland and one on the island. "Water is easily ob-
tained from the latter village.

Oo Sima Island, which forms the eastern shores of the harbour, and is-
about 3^ miles long (East and West), and 1| mile at its widest part, is irre-
gular in shape and outline, hilly, and the greater part under cultivation,
being only thickly wooded in the ravines. Its summit is 535 ft. high.

LIGHT. — On the East point of 06 sima is exhibited, at an elevation of 130
ft. above the sea, a revolving bright light, which shows half a minute, and is
eclipsed for half a minute, visible in clear weather from a distance of 1&
miles. The position of the lighthouse is lat. 33° 28' N., long. 135° 52' E.

Double Rocks, above water, lie 2 cables to the north-eastward of the East
point of Oo sima.

Kami Seh Rock was examined by H.M.S. Sylvia, in 1874. It has 16 feet
water over it, and 17 to 19 fathoms close-to. From the rock, 06 sima light-
house bears S.W. \ W., distant 19 cables. Itsimo Sima, just touching Omi
saki Eock, bearing W. ^ N., leads well South of Kami seh Eock.

Directions. — Approaching 06 sima Harbour from the westward, a heavy-
tide race is often met with off Siwo misaki, which is skirted by uneven masses
of rock, most of it showing at low water, with rocks awash 3 or 4 cables off
shore. Bottle Rock, lying South a quarter of a mile from the point, has some
foul ground IJ cable outside it; a rocky spit extends about a quarter of a
mile off Wedge Head, and there is broken ground at nearly the sam©
distance off Isumo saki.

To clear these dangers, the right extreme of 06 sima, the most southern
point seen, must not be brought eastward of E.N.E. until Mioga sima comes
well open of Isumo saki N.N.W., when it may be steered for, taking care
not to bring it northward of that bearing until within half a mile of it, or
until the East extreme of Isumo saki bears S.S.W. J W., when steer
K.W. I N., passing mid-channel between the land and the West side of
Mioga sima, which has a small ledge running off its South side ; after pass-
ing Mioga sima, steer for the anchorage of Hasingui.

If compelled to work in, the 06 sima shure is the clearest, but take care

1174 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGa

to avoid a dangerous rock lying nearly 2 cables westward of the N-W. part
of Tsuya sima, an island 120 ft. high off the S.W. point of Oo sima. The
S.W. bay of Oo sima is clear of danger. In making the starboard board
remember the bearing of Mioga sima for clearing the foul ground off the
"West side of the entrance ; to the northward of Mioga the lead will give
warning when approaching the mainland, but Oo sima is steep- to.

Approaching the northern entrance of the harbour from the eastward, give
the mainland a berth until the Kuro sima Rocks are passed, as numerous
rocks, only showing at low water, lie scattered along the coast, some nearly
a mile off shore, and a shoal has been reported as lying N.E. i N. If mile
from the lighthouse on Oo sima. The Kuro sima are two large rocks, with
a group of smaller ones off their West side. The South end of the chain of
rocks off Hasingui may then be steered for, passing the outer rock at half a
cable, and taking- up the anchorage off the village.

Koza-gawa is a small but opulent town, situated on the East side of the
entrance of a river, 2J miles N.N.E. of the North point of Oo sima. At
high water, which is about T*" full and change, 10 ft. may be looked for on-
the bar. It is the seat of an important whale fishery,

Ura-Kami Harbour is an inlet running 1^ mile in a "W.S.W. direction
into the land at 8 miles N.E. of Oo sima Harbour, and, although small,
affords excellent shelter in 4 to 5 fathoms, over stiff* muddy bottom. For
steamers it offers an admirable haven, but being only a quarter of a mile
wide, sailing vessels might experience difficulty. In entering, take care ta
avoid a spit of rocks projecting upwards of half a mile in a N.E. direction
from the South point of entrance, but show sufficiently to render them easily
to be avoided. The best anchorage is in 4 to 5 fathoms off the East end of
TJra kami village, which stands on the South shore about half a mile from
the head of the harbour.

Kada Bay. — From Ura-kami the coast trending N.E. by E. is high and
thickly wooded. At a distance of 40 miles is Kada Bay. Grood anchorage
with from 13 to 3 fathoms, gradually shoaling, may be found at the head of
the southern arm, which is perfectly landlocked, and is reported to be clear
of all dangers. The entrance to the bay is marked by a rock off the northern
point, about a quarter of a mile off shore.

Owasi Bay is a deep inlet on the North side of Kuki saki, about 5 miles
northward of Kada Bay. This bay is formed by Kuki saki on the South,
and Domakura saki on the North, and is 5 miles wide at its entrance and 4A-
miles deep, composed of four inlets, two of which are only suitable as
anchorages, the remaining two being much smaller, are only frequented by
j unks.

Otai-tjama, lat. 34° 11' N., long. 136° 7' E., a mountain 5,620 ft. high, is a
conspicuous object when approached from the eastward, and is apparently
the hii^heat land seen from that direction.

SOtJTH COAST or NIPON. 1175

The coast for 23 miles trends to the E.N.E., is much indented, and thickly
wooded ; the mountains, however, are of much less elevation than those to
the southward ; several islets and rocks skirt the coast, and a near approach
is not recommended. At the distance above mentioned from Owasi Bay is
an extensive inlet named Goza.

Mura Harbour, 2 j miles "West of Goza Harbour, is an extensive inlet,
■which indents the coast in a N.N.E. direction, and is 4 miles deep. The bay
is divided at the head into two large inlets. Anchorage may be obtained in
either of these arms, that to the westward (Hazama mura) being preferable,
abreast a small village, in 10 fathoms. Mura Harbour is an excellent and
sheltered anchorage.

Goza Harbour, in lat. 34° 17' N., long. 136° 46' E., affords shelter from all
but West winds. Its entrance, which is about 1 mile wide between the two
points, has 12 fathoms water. The southern point is a high bluff, and is
thickly wooded, and has one or two small rocks lying to the westward of it.
From the northern point a ledge of rocks extends some distance. After
rounding the South bluff point, keep in mid-channel to avoid some scattered
rocks lying 2^ cables off the North shore, and stand in 2 miles to abreast the
first inlet on the port hand, and anchor as convenient.

CAPE SIMA is a low wooded headland, lying 9 miles to the eastward of
Goza Harbour. East, 3J cables from the cape, is a conspicuous rock, 35 ft.
in height ; a rocky ledge extends 2 cables from the point. To the south-
westward from the point are the two small islands sima and Ko sima, from
which long reefs extend in all directions. Outer Reef, on which the sea always
breaks, uncovers 8 ft. at low water, and lies S.W. ^ "W. 7|- miles from the
rock off Cape Sima ; S. by W. J W. 2 miles from sima, and S.S.E. \ E.
5J miles from the wooded entrance to Goza Harbour. Numerous tide rips
occur outside this reef, but there is no danger. The islands off Cape Sima
should not be approached within 3 miles, and it would be only prudent to
give this dangerous cape a still wider berth.

Matoya Harbour lies 5 miles North of Cape Sima, and is open only to the
East. Its entrance is 6J cables wide between Tomio saki on the South, and
Sungi saki on the North, but a reef of rocks which are nearly all above
water, situate just within the South point, contracts the navigable channel to
to 3i cables.

Light. — On Tomio Saki, the South point of entrance to Matoya Harbour,
a wooden octagonal lighthouse, 44 ft. high, is built, and painted white.
From this is shown a light revohing every half minute, elevated 102 feet
above the sea, and visible 15 miles off. It is shown between S.W. ^ S. and
W. by N. i N.

The whole harbour is split up into numerous inlets, narrow channels, and
bays, and safe anchorage may be obtained in nearly all of them.

1176 THE JAPANESE AECHirELAGO.

Watakano sima, an island nearly three-quarters of a mile long, lies in the
middle of the S.W. arm of the bay which it divides into three narrow chan-
nels. The town of Matoya is approached by the northern of the above-
mentioned channels, which is little over a cable wide.

Halca se, a rocky patch which uncovers at low water, lies 6J cables within
the North point of the entrance ; and another patch, connected with Haka
se, lies 3 cables to the north-westward from it, the whole surrounding the
•eastern point at the entrance to the bay on the North shore of Matoya
Harbour.

Ohi-no se, a rocky patch of considerable extent, lies N.E. | E. 3^ cables
from the outer rock, seen above water off Miya-no saki (at the North entrance
to the channel leading to the town), to which it is joined by a reef.

Supplies are very limited.

On entering Matoya Harbour the reef just inside the entrance projecting
from Tomio saki, will be avoided by passing from about 1 J to 2 cables from
the extreme rock seen above water, after passing which, to avoid Haka se,
steer West for the opening leading to the town, seen South of the cliffs of
Miya no saki, and anchor as convenient.

With winds from N.E., North, or N.W., good anchorage may be had in
the 8ma,ll bay on the northern shore of the harbour off the village of Adako ;
but with wind from South or East vessels should either anchor off Matoya
in from 5 to 6 fathoms, or between the East side of Watakano sima and the
reef which extends off the second point from the entrance on the southern
shore.

Toba Harbour. — About 8 miles northward of Matoya is the small harbour
of Toba, the residence of a daimio. It is said to be available as an anchorage,
but is not of any great extent. The harbour is situated at the western
entrance to the bay of Owari.

Light. — On the N.E. point of Suga Sima, the South entrance point of
Toba Harbour, is built a brick lighthouse, 28 ft. high, painted white. From
it is shown a, fixed Iright light, elevated 176 ft. and visible 15 miles off.

A thirteen-feet rock lies in Toba Harbour, about 3 cables distant from the
North end of Suga Sima,- from it Kami Sima bears N. 61° E., the outer
rock, near Suga Sima lighthouse, S. 77° E., and the North end of the small
island in the inner part of the harbour, S. 68° W.

OWARI BAY. — This extensive inlet, the entrance to which is between
Momotori (an island North of Toba) on the West and Irako saki on the
East, is about 35 miles long (North and South) and divided into three sepa-
rate arms, that to the westward being the largest. The western side shows
a high mountain range broken opposite Yokaichi. The eastern coast is low ;
from Moro-saki to Noma Saki are hills of moderate elevation ; North of
Noma Saki the land appears level and wooded. Mr. Pendered, in the Tha-
hor, 1875, proceeding in a nearly direct line from Kama Sima at the entrance

OMAE SAKI AND LTGnTnOUSE. 1177

to Yokaiehi on the West shore of the gulf, obtained soundings of 13 to 2o
fathoms, at 2,^- or 3 miles from the Enst shore.

According to an examination recently made by the German vessel of war
Elizabeth, Owari Bay has a general depth of 17 to 22 fathoms, decreasing to

7 or 8 fathoms on the East, West, and S.W. sides of the bay at distances
of 2 to 3| miles from the shore. Large vessels, without local knowledge,
should not shoal less than 8 fathoms. Near the mouths of various small
rivers mud banks have formed, on which the water shoals to 3 fathoms ; in
few cases can these banks be discovered by the discolouration of the water.

A shoal of 2^- fathoms, mud, lies about 2 miles from the eastern shore,
with Onia Saki village bearing N.N.E., Noma ISaki S. by E., Tokoname
village E.N.E.

Vessels can anchor in any part of the bay, having due regard to the pre-
vailing wind, for the bay is large enough to produce an inconvenient swell
with a strong breeze.

Yohaichi, at the mouth of a small river on the western shore, at the head
of Owari Bay, is in lat. 34° 58' N., long. 139' 36' E. (approx.). It is the port
where all produce from the interior is shipped. Native steam vessels call
regularly there, and the place is of rising importance. At the head of the
bay, about 8 miles N.E. from Yohaichi, is Kuwana. The head of the bsy
is formed by the delta of the large river Kiso.

The N.E. head of the bay is known as Miya Bay, and at its N.E. point is
the seaport of Miwa, which it is proposed to connect with Nagoya, one of the
largest and most opulent cities of the empire, by a railway about 4 miles
long. This railway is thence to be extended till it is joined with the system
described with Hia^o hereafter.

Entering this bay, Kami Sima should be left on 'the port hand; the
southern passage, having many dangers on it, should not be attempted.
OfiF Irako-Saki are some detached rocks, and when approaching from the
eastward the cape should not be passed too closely. Inside of and to the
northward of Irako-Saki, H.M.S. Frolic found a safe anchorage in from 7 to

8 fathoms, mud, with perfectly smooth water, though a considerable swell
was running outside.

The coast from Irako saki takes an easterly direction for 60 miles as far
as Omae saki, Uamana Inld lying midway between. It is fronted by a
sandy beach with low sandhills and occasional patches of trees, the whole
being steep-to, with no known off-lying dangers.

OMAE SAKI and LIGHTHOUSE, the West point of entrance to Suruga

Gulf, is a dark wooded bluff 150 ft. in height. The lighthouse, 57 ft. high,

is erected on the sandhill at the South part of the cape. It is painted white.

From it is shown a revolving hright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every

I. A. 7 L

1178 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

half iliinute, elevated 172 ft., and visible 19 miles off. The light is shown
eastward and southward between "W. by N. J N. and N.E.

Lady Inglis Rocks, half a mile in extent, and covered at high water, lie 2
miles E. f S. from the lighthouse.

Portsmouth Breakers, S. ^ E. 25 miles from Omae Saki, were reported by
the U.S. frigate of that name. They have since been looked for without
success, but a good look-out should be kept while in their locality. Irregu-
larities have been found in the depth hereabout, and the water appeared
discoloured. In a S.W. gale good shelter may be obtained under the lee of
Omae saki in 7 to 4 fathoms, but no closer in.

Gulf of Suruga (named Tutomi Gulf in former charts) is 34 miles deep
and 23 miles wide at entrance.

The western side of the gulf is not so well known as the eastern. It ap-
pears less precipitous, but, judging from the soundings obtained off Simidzu,
is equally steep-to. At the head of the gulf is Fusi Yama, the highest
mountain of Japan (p. 1181). Simidzu and Eno ura are two excellent har-
bours, one on each side at the head of the gulf.

The four bays Ena TIru, Ueda, Arari, and Tago, on the eastern side of the
Gulf of Suruga will serve as a refuge from S.W. winds, which cause a great
swell. Their coasts are wooded and mountainous, attaining the height of
1,000 ft. The entrances may be approached fearlessly, for the high coast
conceals them, and the bays only open when within a mile. The whole of
the western coast of the Idsu Peninsula is shelving, and may be safely
approached to 2 miles. Islands lie off it, but not beyond the distance of
a mile. The current is stronger along the shores than in the middle of
the gulf.

IRO-0 SAKI (Cape Idsu), a fine, bold, rocky headland which cannot be
mistaken, is the southern extremity of the mountainous peninsula of Idsu.
It will be recognized by a conspicuous white cliff, 3i miles to the N.W. of it.
To the E.N.E. the coast for 3 miles is very broken, and fronted with nume*
rous sunken rocks.

LIGHT. — On the point, elevated 185 feet above the sea, is exhibited a
fixed red light of the sixth order, visible in clear weather from a distance of 8
miles. The tower is 20 feet high, octagonal shaped, built of wood, and
painted white.

Rock Island and Lighthouse. — Mikomoto or Eock Island, about 104 ft.
high and a third of a mile of length, with precipitous shores and an uneven
outline, bears E. by S. f S. about 5 miles from Iro-o Saki lighthouse.

On Mikomoto, at an elevation of 164 ft. above the sea, is exhibited a fixed
bright light oi the first order, visible in clear weather at a distance of 21 miles.
A red rag is shown between N.W. and N. f E., over all the dangers between
Mikomoto and the shore ; the eastern edge of the ray leading into Simoda

SOUTH COAST OF NIPON. 1179

harbour. The tower is 75 ft. high, built of white stone, and is in lat. 34'
34' 20' N., long. 138^ 57' 10" E.

Between Eock Island and the main land are the Ucona and four other
rocks, among which the junks freely pass ; but a vessel should not attempt
to run inside Eock Island at night unless her distance from it can be accu-
rately estimated, for some of the rocks about Ucona are small ledges and
only 2 miles distant from Mikomoto.

Tides. — Eegular tides have been observed, the flood setting W.S.W., 1^
mile an hour, the ebb E.N.E., from 2 to 3 miles per hour ; thus with the
ebb tide the north-easterly current is considerably augmented in force, whilst
the flood tide overruns the current close to the shore. To the N.W. and
North of Mikomoto there are overfalls caused by the tides passing over a
very uneven bottom. The Japanese fishermen deny the existence of any
danger there.

The channel between Mikomoto and Ucona Eocks carries irregular sound-
ings of 14 to 30 fathoms, with the exception of a patch of 9 fathoms 3 cables
North of the island. An additional reason for not using this channel at
night is, that by crossing on a more southerly course towards Cape Sagami,
the influence of the indraught on the eastern side of Odawara Bay is not so
likely to be felt.

Ucona Hocks, two in number, though they generally appear as one, bear
N. by W., distant 2 miles from Mikomoto ; the largest is about 25 ft. high.
Four other rocks occupy a triangular space of a mile from W.S.W. to
N.N.W. of the Ucona. The northern and southern of these are small
ledges nearly awash. A reef also extends 3^ cables towards them from
Tohadgi Point to the N.W. of the Ucona. There is deep water between all
these rocks.

SIMODA HARBOUR, is on the eastern side of the peninsula of Idsu, 6
miles N.E. of the cape. Vandalia Bluff, the East point of entrance to the
harbour, will be known by a grove of pine trees on the summit of the bluff,
and the village of Susaki, which is about a third of the way between it and
Sumegi Saki. The town of Simoda stands on the West shore of the har-
bour, and Kaki-saki village on the East. There is good landing for boats
in Simoda creek, and also at the village.

Wood, water, fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vege-
tables, may be procured.

Centre Jslatid, lying nearly in the middle of Simoda Harbour, bears N. f
JE., 5^ miles from Eock Island, and N. by E. ^ E. 3^ miles from the Ucona
Eocks. It is high, conical, covered with trees, and a cave passes entirely
through it. Buisaco Islet, a quarter of a mile N.N.E. from Centre Island, is
about 40 ft. high, and covered with trees and shrubs.

There are but two hidden dangers in Simoda Harbour ; the first is Souih-
amj^ton Bock, which is in mid-channel, S. by E. £ E., 2 cables from South

1180 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

point of Centre Island. It has 2 fathoms water on it, and was formerly
marked by a white spar buoy. The other is the Supply Roclc, lying 8. by W.
a short distance from Buisaco or Misana Islet ; it is a sharp rock, with. 11 ft.
water on it, and is marked by a red spar buoy.

Anchorage. — In the outer road, or mouth of the harbour, a disagreeable
swell is experienced ; but inside Southampton Rock and Centre Island ves-
sels are well sheltered. Moor with open hawse to the S.W. It is an unsafe
and expos 'd bay, being open to South and S.S.W., the direction from
which the heaviest winds blow.

If intending to anchor at Simoda, pass Mikomoto at a mile, when the har-
bour will be in full view to the northward. Standing in from this island, a
vessel will probably pass through a number of tide rips, but no soundings
will be obtained with the hand lead until near the entrance, when the depth
will be 14 to 27 fathoms. Should the wind be from the northward and fresh^
she should anchor at the mouth of the harbour until it lulls or shifts, or
until she can conveniently warp in, as the wind is usually flawy and always
baffling.

The Coast from Iro-o saki rounds in a N.E. direction 26 miles to Futo sah',
its general features being high, rocky, and even, having near Simoda a few
Bandy beaches. Between Simoda and Futo saki the coast is bold of approach.
Over it, the Amagi Yama rises to 4,700 ft., and on the N.E. ridge is a con-
spicuous dome-shaped hill.

From Futo saki the coast trends more to the northward, forming the
western coast of Awatsu Bay.

Macedonian Heeflies off the East side of Awatsu Bay, at 4 miles N.N.W.
of the lighthouse on the West end of Joka Sima. It dries in many places at
low tide. To avoid its western side, do not bring the lighthouse to the
southward of S,S.E. g E. until the South end of the first range of hills, 700
feet high, North of Cape Sagami, bears E. J N.

Vessels embarrassed in the vicinity of the Macedonian reef may find an
anchorage about Ih mile N.E. of it in Asina Bag, in 4 to 8 fathoms, good
holding ground.

Eocky ground extends from the reef to the South extreme of the bay.
There are also some rocks off the North side of the bay, but they show, and
are easily avoided by keeping mid-channel.

There are two or three excellent havens for small craft and junks on the
West shore of Sagami Peninsula, to the southward of Macedonian Eeef.

JOKA SIMA and Lighthouse.— Joka Sima lies off the S.W. point of Cape
Sagami, with a channel about 2 cables wide, and encumbered with rocks^
between it and the shore. Off its southern shore is a rocky patch of 2 fa-
thoms, 2 cables from the island. The light is b. fixed green light shown on the
western end of the island at an elevation of 106 ft., visible 9 miles off. It
is obscured to the eastward between E. by N. and S.E. ^ E. by the land.

DIRECTIONS— SOUTH COAST OF NIPON. 1181

In navigating the south-eastern coast of Japan, after passing Satano
misaki, in Van Diemen Strait, if the weather be thick, the vessel's position
should be well ascertained before she is hauled to the E.N.E., as her course
is parallel to the high land for about 20 miles fr')m the pitch of the cape.
It should also be borne in mind that the current on this coast ;^Kuro siM-tj)
runs to the E.N.E. at the rate of from 40 to 100 miles a day.

Vessels therefore bound to the eastward must allow for this current, and
should keep not more than 30 miles off shore, taking every opportunity of
verifying their reckoning, if working up inshore the north-easterly set will
be lost, and the ship will be influenced by the tides. Many vessels have
Tinder these circumstances reported the current as setting in various direc-
tions in the vicinity of the Kii and Boungo Channels, indraughts, and vice
versa, resulting from the ebb or flood tide being experienced at the time. In
the summer season the north-easterly current is not to be expected in the
vicinity of Iro-o saki (Cape Idsu).

Vessels from the Gulf of Yedo bound for the Kii Channel, after passing
Mikomoto (Eock Island), should take an inshore passage, steering for Omae
saki, and thence for sima, thus avoiding the strength of the Japan stream.
Following this course, a vessel may carry a favourable current (on the flood),
and it has been often observed that there is a back set to the S.W. in the
bights between Eock Island and sima. In folio iving this route, take care
to avoid the rocks off Cape Sima.

In approaching the Gulf of Yedo, the remarkable high mountain Fusi
Yama, a lofty and symmetrical truncated cone of 12,450 ft. elevation, and so
different in form from any other land in its vicinity, cannot fail to be of great
service in directing vessels either to Simoda or Yedo. In clear weather it is
the first distant land seen, and genei'ally to the north-eastward, visible at
times upwards of 100 miles., Iro-o saki (Cape Idsu) is in line with it when
bearing North. "When bound from the southward and westward endeavour
to make Iro-o saki, and if the weather is at all clear, the chain of islands off
the Gulf of Yedo will at the same time be plainly visible. Omae saki, the
West point of entrance to Suruga Gulf, cannot be mistaken for Iro-o saki,
the former being low, with a sandy beach and low sand hills, with occasional
patches of trees, and the coast is said to preserve this character for 30 or 40
miles to the westward ; whereas the cape is high and rocky, has a lighthouse
at its foot, its summit being generally hidden in the clouds. Mikomoto
(Eock Island) being low, unless the weather is clear, or at night when the
light is visible, will not be seen until long after this cape and Vries Island
are made.

Between the Kii Channel and Mikomoto, westerly winds are most fre-
quently met with, falling light when the latter place is passed ; and often on
rounding Cape Sagami a strong N.E. wind is encountered.

1182 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGa

THE BAY OF YEDO.

The entrance to the Bay of Yedo, named the Uraga Channel, lies between-
Cape Sagami on the West, and Cape King, in the province of Awa, on the-
East, is 15 miles wide between these points, and 35 miles deep. Situated on
the N. W. shore at its head is the city of Yedo, now known as Tokei (eastern
capital) the commercial as well as political capital of the empire, and on the
western shore is the principal seaport and treaty port of Japan, viz. Yoko-
hama. In the year 1876, there were 2,554 foreign residents at the treaty
port (p. 1187) of Kanagawa (including those at Yedoj. Of these 635 were
British, 240 Americans, 161 French, 160 German, and 1,033 Chinese. There-
were 176 firms, of which 54 were British.

Pilots. — Every master of a vessel entering the port who may engage a
pilot is to see that he holds a certificate qualifying him for the pursuit of his
vocation as pilot. The following are the signals for a pilot in the day
time : —

1. The jack or other national colour of the ship hoisted at the fore. 2.
The International Code pilot signal P.T.

At night, the following signals, when used together or separately, are
deemed to be signals for a pilot : —

1. A blue light every fifteen minutes, or 2. A bright white light flashed
or shown at short intervals just above the bulwarks for about a minute at a
time.

URAGA CHANNEL, leading into the Gulf of Yedo, appears remarkably
clear of hidden danger. On its West side are the Ashika sima or Fhjmouth
Hocks, which are always uncovered and easily seen ; there are some sunken
rocks close around them. In their vicinity, off Senda saki and Uraga, aro
several rocky patches extending some distance from the shore. The mariner
should bear this in mind, and as Kaneda Bay has also some foul ground in it
at nearly a mile from the shore, it would be prudent to give this locality a
good berth in passing.

Sagami Misaki, the western cape at the entrance to the Uraga Channel is
comparatively low, the hills forming in a table flat about 150 ft. in height,
and rising, about one mile from the shore, to a saddle peak, having on it two
conspicuous clumps of trees elevated 354 ft. above the sea. The shore is
clear at less than half a mile, except ofl the eastern part of the cape, where
there is a patch of 4f fathoms at that distance lying S.E., 7 cables Irom the
North extreme of the cape.

TSURTJGA SAKI AND LIGHT. — On the south-eastern point of Cape
Sagami, at an elevation of 110 ft. above the sea, is exhibited ajfashinff light
of the second order, showing a flash every ten seconds, visible in clear
•weather from a distance of 16 miles. This light is shown bright to the

THE BAY or YEDO. 1183

southward and eastward between W. by S. and N.E. i E. To the northward
over, and to nearly a mile outside the Plymouth Rocks, a red sector is shown
between N.E. i E. and N.N.E. J E. The tower, 36 ft. in height, is in lat.
3o° 8' N., long. 139° 41' E.

Kaneda Bay, contained between Sagami misaki and Senda saki, affords
excellent anchorage with winds from South, round by West and North to
N.E., in from 10 to 3 fathoms, as convenient ; sandy bottom, good holding
ground. Old-no sima, 3 feet above high water, is a black rock in the S.W.
portion of the bay, steep-to on the North side, but having foul ground be-
tween it and the shore on the South and West sides. Hits iso form a cluster
of rocks in the centre of the bay that cover at high water. A shoal having
6 ft. on it at low water lies W. by S. J S. 7 cables from the southern and
highest of these rocks ; another shoal, of 9 ft., lies W. by S. J S. nearly one
mile from the same rock.

Ashika Sima, or Plymouth Eocks, are two dark rocks 5 ft. above high
water, lying N.E. ^ N. 5^ miles from Sagami misaki, and S. by W. \ W.
3 J miles from the lighthouse on Kanon saki. Kata sima, a rook awash, lies
S.E. by E. I E. nearly one mile from the eastern of the two rocks, and is
marked by a red beacofi, surmounted by a ball about 20 ft. above high water.

Senda Saki shows in steep white cliffs the termination of the range from
Take yama. It has a dismantled fort at the summit of the cliffs, and is sur-
rounded by detached rocks. The eastern portion of these runs out in a spit,
the outer edge, of 21 ft., lying E. by S. :^ S. 6 cables from the point, and
leaving only a passage of 3 cables between it and Ashika sima. The outer
detatched rock awash, steep-to on the South side, lies S.S.W. 9| cables from
Senda saki. On entering Kaneda Bay from the northward, Ashika sima
should not be brought to the eastward of N.E. 5 N. until Take yama bears
N.W. by W.

Kurihama, the bay North of Senda saki, has a sandy beach at its head,
the end of a long plain that is drained by a river running into a lagoon that
enters the sea at the North end of the beach. This bay should not be used
as an anchorage, the ground being foul in all directions.

Kadzusa Saki, the North point of this bay, is terminated by a conical
mound, Shendora, 69 ft. above high water, from which a ledge of rocks ex-
tends S.E. I S. 4 J cables to the outer depth of 5 fathoms. From this to
Tomio saki the ground is foul nearly 4 cables from the shore.

Uraga, a thriving village, and clearance port of the junk trade to Yedo,
is a capital harbour for vessels drawing less than 9 feet, but should not be
entered without a chart.

Tomio saki, the South point of entrance to Uraga is a low point with a
Japanese lighthouse and a memorial stone near its extreme. These have
been erroneously called beacons ; when in line they clear Ka yama. A
shoal of 12 ft. lies E. 1 S. 3 cables from the light, and there is less than 3

1181 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

fathoms, three-quarters of a cable S.E. from it. Miojin salci, the North point
of entrance to Uraga, is a bold bluff surmounted by a battery. From ic to
Kauon saki the land is undulating, with villages in sandy bays. The whole
of this coast is foul for half a mile from the shore, having depths of If to 4f
fathoms on the outer margin. Ka Yama or JElinsione Rock has only 12 ft. on
it at low water, with 4 fathoms, 2 cables to the eastward and southward.
It lies S. by W. f W., nearly 1 mile from Kanon saki lighthouse. Ashika
sima kept S.S.W. J W. until Kanon saki light bears N.N.W. will clear all
the foul ground.

Kanon Saki and Lighthouse.— Kanon saki is a steep and partially wooded
point, within which, 1 cable from the shore, is a conical hill, 272 ft. above
high water. On the slope of this hill, at an elevation of 170 ft. above high
water, is exhibited a fixed bright light, visible 14 miles off. The tower is
square, built of stone, and rises from the centre of the keeper's dwelling.

The point immediately East of the lighthouse is steep-to, but the S.E. ex-
treme of of Kanon saki has a reef off it, terminated by a rook awash, steep-
to, IJ cable from the shore. From this to Rubicon Point the coast is slightly
indented, having sandy bays between the points. From Eubicon Point rocks
extend 1 cable, with deep water close to the outer.

Tsu-no ura is a deep bay with a sandy beach, having numerous villages
from the largest of which it takes its name. This bay has shallow water in
the eastern portion, the outer shoal of 12 ft. lying N.W. by W. ^ W. 8|-
cables from Rubicon Point. In the centre of tlie bay is a shoal 4^ cables
long by 3 cables broad, having 9 ft. on the North and 13 ft. on the South
edge, with uneven depths of 2; to 4^ fathoms between. The North edge lies
S. I- E. 5 cables from the South end of Saru sima, and N.W. by W. f W.
nearly 2 miles from Rubicon Point.

Saru Sima, 198 ft. high, is cliffy, with a wooded flat summit. The S.E.
point has a conspicuous single tree ; and from the South extreme a sandy
spit extends half a cable. This island has shoal water all round, except off
the North end.

From the South point, E by S. f S. 3| cables, lies Kitsne no se, a rock that
covers at high water; and West, 3 cables from the same, lie three rocks awash
at hi'j-h water. Between these and Kitsne no se there is shallow water. No
vessel should go between Hana rete and Saru sima.

Hana-rete, 94 ft. high, is a grass-covered conical mound, sloping down to
dark rugged rocks. Between it and the western end of 0-tsu-no ura the
coast is a series of white cliffs, with shingly beaches intervening. Imme-
diately South of Hana-rete is a deep bay, off the South point of which there
is a conicle islet 78 ft. high, from which, S.S.E. ^ E. 3^ cables, lies a rock
that dries at low water, with foul ground between it and the shore.

Beacon. — A rock, awash at low water, having on it an iron beacon sur-
mounted by a cage, and painted recly lies N.E. by E. 3J cables from Hana-

THE BAY OF YEDO. 1185

rete ; East, 1 mile nearly from Ha sima, at the entrance to Toko?ka ; and
N.W. 4 miles from Kanon saki extreme. It may be approached to a
quarter of a mile on the North side, but vessels should not attempt to pass
inside it.

YOKOSKA HARBOUR, 11 cables in depth, and with a general breadth of
3^ cables, is the eastern of two inlets, and may be easily recognized by Ha
sima, the islet that lies off its N.E. point, and by a remarkable clump' of
trees, 355 feet above the sea, known as ^::M;«ff, on the highest hill of the
promontory that separates it from Ura-no-go ura, the western bay. It
has a series of cliffs and indentations, the points generally being marked
by white stone beacons. At the head of the harbour is a dock, with large
smith and boiler factories, and all the necessary works for thoroughly repair-
ing and building ships, with houses for the officials, built on a plain that
joins 0-tsu-no ura. On one of these factories is a clock tower, that may be
seen from that bay. The inner harbour is formed by two breakwaters, and
is of considerable width at the entrance.

The Bock is 395 ft. in length, 82 ft. broad, and 26 ft. deep. It has no lock,
and vessels can pass from the anchorage through the inner harbour direct to
the dock. There are three other slips for biiilding purposes.

Off the eastern points of Yokoska there are spits, having 10 to 12 ft. on
their outer edges ; those off Susu-ga saki extending N.N.E. 2^ cables, and
N.W. J W. 1| cable. The outer end of the latter is marked by a small red
cask buoy. Vessels should not bring Ha sima to the northward of N.E. by N.

Anchorage may be had in 6 to 8 fathoms in any part of the bay, but large
ships should not go inside the red buoy, as there the anchorage space has
only 2 cables breadth.

Across the promontory that separates Yokoska from Ura-no-go ura, a
canal has been cut, through which boats may go, when the tide has risen 1
foot above low water. Hako saki, the N.W. extreme of this promontory,
has rocks that show at low water, and shoals off it for \^ cable. For the
better protection of Yokoska Harbour, a breakwater is being constructed,
which will be about 600 ft. in length when completed.

Ura-no-goura, 8 cables long, with a general breadth of 4 cables, has excel-
lent anchorage in 7 to 4| fathoms, mud, as convenient ; the water shoaling
gradually as the bay is entered. There is no danger in mid-channel. Yeno-
liido is a deep inlet on the western shore of this bay, with too narrow an en-
trance for ships, but a fine harbour for junks, running inland 4 cables, and
having a general width of 1 cable. From its. North point, E. by N. f N. 1^
cable, lies Yaiama, a reef that just shows at high water, steep-to on the outer
edge. Matsu Sima is a partially wooded island, 300 ft. high, that stands
between Ura-no-go ura and the entrance no Kanasawa Inlet. It has a spit
of shoal water, with 4 fathoms on its outer edge, extending East 3 cables,

I. A. 7 }kl

1186 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

and shoaling gradually towards the shore. Yeboshi yama is a conical rocky
islet, joined to the shore near Yenokido at low water, and separated by a
channel of 1 cable from the S.W. point of Matsu sima.

On passing Matsu sima a creek is seen, which, on entering, winds round
in a northerly direction, and at about half a mile from the entrance the chan-
nel contracts, passing which it opens into a large shallow lagoon. A narrow
channel, marked by stakes and bushes, leads up to the village of Kanasawa,
situated in the N.W. corner. From this village there is a good road (which
lies through a remarkaDle narrow pass) to the town of Kamakura, celebrated
in the history of Japan as being a former opulent town, and also at this time
for its ancient temples. Continuing this road for some distance about 2 or 3
miles from Kamakura is the celebrated bronze statue of Daibutsu sama,
situated in a beautiful grove at the foot of a valley.

From Matsui sima the coast takes a northerly direction for 3 miles to
Graham Bluff, is shallow for some distance, and at 2 miles off-shore is skirted
by banks of from 4 J to 5 fathoms, with deep water between them and the
coast.

Mississippi Bay (Nigisi), formed between Graham Bluff to the southward
and Treaty Point on the North (between which it is 3 miles in width), is well
sheltered from the prevailing winds. In anchoring, give the shore a wide
berth to avoid a shoal which extends half to three-quarters of a mile from it.
Between Matsu sima and Treaty Point the soundings are irregular, shoaling
suddenly from 12 to 5 fathoms on banks of hard sand.

Treaty Point, the termination of a ridge of low hills extending into the
Gulf of Yedo, about lOJ miles N.N.W. of Kanon saki, forms the southern
point of the Bay of Yokohama. The point is formed of a long line of cliffs
of a conspicuous yellow colour, the northern bluff of which is called Manda-
rin Bluff. These bluffs, and a bank which fronts them to the distance of 1 J
mile in some places, and which is rather steep-to, protects the anchorage
from south-westerly winds, the only ones which blow with sufficient force to
send a heavy sea into the bay.

A LIGHTVESSEL, with two masts, carrying a ball at her foremost head,
is placed at the extremity of the shoal off Treaty Point and Mandarin Bluff,
and lies in 7 fathoms, with the following bearings : — Treaty Point, S.W. f S. ;
Mandarin Bluff, S.W. by W. ; and the mouth of the Canal (just northward
of the English sick quarters), W. \ N. The vessel exhibits ^ fixed red light,
elevated 36 ft. above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of
10 miles.

A huoy, with a cage painted red, is moored in 4 fathoms on the northern
extreme of the shoal off Mandarin Bluff, southward of the anchorage off Yo-
kohama, with the following bearings : — Mandarin Bluff, S. by E. i E. ;
Mouth of the Canal, S.W. by S. ^ S. j and the centre of the English hatoba
(landing place), W. by S.

^^•'

JVoifM ISA

YOKOHAMA. 1187

YOKOHAMA on a plain surrounded by low hills, is environed by a canal
which entirely isolates it. It is connected with Yedo by a railway, which
forms part of the system described with Hiogo hereafter. The residences
of the foreign community occupy the East, and those of the Japanese mer-
chants the N.W. of the town, and the bluff on the South side, on which is
situated the camp and British Legation, is being rapidly built over. The
English sick quarters are on the northern face of the bluff at the southern
end of the town ; boats can land there at high water in the canal above men-
tioned. The position of the square in the sick quarters is lat. 35' 26' 30 'N.,
long. 139° 39' 24" E. Yokohama exports tea, raw and manufactured silk,
lacquered goods, vegetable wax, oil, antlers, cotton, and rice in small quan-
tities. For the Chinese market, paper, camphor, flour, peas, beans, seaweed,
isinglass, beohe-de-mer, and dried shell-fish.

At the head of the bay, and on its North side, stands the town of Kana-
gaxva* one of the ports opened to foreigners, bat this being an inconvenient
situation for a settlement it was changed to Yokohama on the South side, it
being a more eligible position for business communication. The water also
is deeper for anchorage, and more cun vet lent for the landing of boats and
merchandise than at Kanagawa, where it is so shallow that at low tide the
sea retreats to a considerable distance from the shore.

Kanagawa is subject to frequent shocks of earthquakes. It is situated on
the Tokaido or imperial highway to Yedo. All persons (excepting officers in
uniform) passing between Yokohama and Yedo must produce a passport.

A red huoy, with staff and cage, is moored in 4 fathoms at low water
springs on the point of the spit extending from Kanagawa Fort to the
northern side of Yokohama anchorage, and lies S.E. by E. easterly, 1 mila
from Kanagawa Fort.

A good anchorage for large ships is with Kanon saki just open of Mandaria
Bluff, the latter bearing S. by E., and the British Consulate S.W. by W. ^ W.,
mud bottom. Vessels of lighter draught may, if desirable, take up a posi-
tion much nearer the town.

AlII supplies, provisions, water, coal, «S:c., are to be procured in abundance,
and ordinary repairs both to ships and engines can be easily executed.

* The limits of the Treaty Port Kanagawa to the North lies along the course of the Logo
Kiver, which, after pursuing an easterly direction, enters the sea midway between Yedo
and Yokohama. At 25 miles above the mouth of this river the treaty boundary leaves the
river and pursues a southerly direction to the coast, which it joins just eastward of Odiwara,
in long. 139" 10' E. The extent of territory open to foreigners is thus, roughly speaking,
25 miles square. There is a strip of land on the western side of Uraga Channel not open to
foreigners ; its boundary line runs from Susquehanna Bay on the East to Asiua Bay on
the West.

1188 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Yokohama Bay, at e*", and
springs rise 6^ ft., neaps 4^ ft ; with southerly winds the tide rises about 2
feet higher.

The streams in this bay are scarcely felt, but they run strong in the middle
of Yedo Bay, and their velocity is much increased off Saratoga Spit, Saru
sima, and Kanon saki, particularly off the latter, round which they sweep
with great rapidity.

KAWA SAKI, bearing N.E. J N. from the lightvessel off Treaty Point,
is low and wooded, with shoal water extending \\ mile from the shore, ita
edge being marked by Haneda pile lighthouse and two buoys. The southern-
most, a red huny, with cage, is moored in 6 fathoms, with Treaty Point
S.W. I W., Kawa saki N. ^ W., and Bansu hana E.S.E. southerly. The
northernmost, a hlach huoy, with cage, is moored in 6 fathoms, with Kawa
Baki bearing West, Noko gawa entrance N. f E., Bansu hana S.E. i E., and
the southern buoy S.W. f S.

Haneda Point Lighthouse. — At the extremity of the spit which extends
to the eastward of Kawa saki a pile lighthouse was completed in 1875. The
lighthouse is 60 ft. high, of iron, painted white, and stands in 7 ft. water,
600 yards in-shore of the black buoy. Prom it is shown a. fixed green light,
elevated 40 ft. above high water, and visible to South, East, and North, be-
tween S.W. by W. f W. and N.N.W. \ W., 8 mile| off.

YEDO, which has lately been named Tokei, is situated at the N.W. angle
of Yedo Bay, along the shore of which it extends, with its suburbs, for 8
miles. Its aspect is not imposing, as large stacks of timber and elevated
ground conceal by far the larger part of the city. The suburb of Sinagawa
stands on the South of the city, where are seen the low wooded heights of
Goten yama, extending 2 miles along the shore. The landing place is on
the North side of these and West of the five forts, close to which is the temple
occupied by the British legation.

The small Eiver Sodogawa, which flows through the very centre of Yedo,
disembogues at the northernmost part of the bay on which the city stands,
thence splitting into two streams, up which boats and small junks can pass.
Light.— On the third fort (commencing with, the extreme eastern fort)
before the city, at the East entrance to the Tsikiji channel leading to the
foreign concession at Tsikiji and the city, elevated 53 ft. above high water,
is exhibited a, fixed red light of the fourth order, visible in clear weather from
a distance of 9 miles.

Anchorage.— This bay is so shoal all along the shore where the city stands
that at low water even a ship's boat cannot approach within a mile. Tho
best anchorage for a large ship is in 5 to 6 fathoms, soft mud, good holding
ground, with, the south-western of the five forts bearing N.W. ; but recollect
that on this bearing the water shoals rather suddenly from 4 to 2J fathoms-
It is better, therefore, to anchor a smaller vessel on a N.W. by N. bearing

THE BAY OF YEDO. 1189

of the fort. H.M.S. Furious, in 1858, anchored in 15 ft. at low water, with
the five forts bearing from N. J W. to N.W., Beacon house S. ^ W., and the
peak of Fusi yama W. by S.

The Coast from Tonegawa Point round the head of the Gulf of Yedo is
low, with shoal water extending a considerable distance from the shore,
forming a deep bay with from 6 to 8 fathoms water between the above point
and Bansii hana, which lies on the eastern shore of the gulf about S.E. by E.
8 miles from Kawa saki ; it is very low, and is fronted by shoal water ex-
tending 2 miles from the shore in a westerly direction. From Bansu hana
the coast takes a southerly and then a south-westerly direction for 12 miles,
and is low and shoal from 1|^ to 2 miles offshore.

Futsu Saki is a low sandy point, having a fort at its high water line, and
stretching out in a narrow tongue that forms Saratoga Spit. "West from this
tongue, in 9 fathoms, is moored a red huoy, with staff and cage, 13 ft. above
the water. East from the buoy there are only 5 fathoms at 3 cables, and 1
fathom at three-quarters of a mile. The bank of 5 fathoms trends N.E. J N.
and S.E. by E., deepening rapidly to 10 fathoms.

The coast from Futsu saki takes an easterly and southerly direction, form-
ing a deep bay, the northern shore of which is sandy and low, but the
southern is the termination of the slopes from the high range Noko-gheri
yama, and is rocky and steep-to. Shoal water extends from 1^ to 2 miles
from the shore in the centre of the bay.

Kanaya Point, the south-western extreme of these slopes, is steep-to, and
bears nearly East of the Tree Saddle on Sagami Peninsula ; it is at the ter-
mination of tlie sharp well-defined ridge of the A/iocfani yama, a fine dome-
shaped mountain, elevated 1,096 ft. The coast from this point takes a
southerly direction for 7i miles as far as Daibo saki, between which there
are three small bays, the southern of which has several rocky patches.

Ghibu Isi (Black Eock), about 20 ft. high, lies three quarters of a mile
West of the latter bay, having several reefs in its vicinity which only uncover
at low water. The lofty mountains Miogani yama, Sveno yama, and Douhlo
Hill, are very conspicuous, towering above this coast.

The Peninsula of Awa, although mountainous, is less so than Idsu, and
possesses much larger tracts of arable land, all of which is carefully culti-
vated. Its West coast is more sinuous than the opposite shore of the gulf,
but only one of the bays, Tati yama, formed in it, affords fair anchorage.

To the northward of these hills the country (Kadsusa) becomes much
lower, and a few miles north-eastward of Futsu saki, the point off which runs
the Saratoga Spit, it becomes an uninteresting dead flat, encircling the head
of Yedo Bay.

Tati-yama Bay, formed between L)aibo saki and Su saki, has shelter and
good holding ground in southerly and easterly gales, but it is exposed to the
westward.

1190 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

SU SAKI, the East point of entrance of the Gulf of Yedo, when seen from
the southward, appears as a block of small hills, rather conical in profile, the
highest, Hazama, being elevated 650 ft. The point is low, with the exception
of a small elevation at the N.W. corner, on which is an old fort. There is a
heavy tide rip off it, but no dangers at a greater distance than half a mile
from the shore, and the point may be safely rounded at a mile.

Mela Head, S.E. \ S. nearly 5 miles from Su saki, forms the eastern point
of entrance to the Uraga Channel and Gulf of Yedo. It is 456 ft. above the
sea, the general height of the coast range in its vicinity being comparatively
low. An extremely dangerous ledge {Mela Ledge) lies 1^ mile off Mela Head,
about 5 miles S.E. of Su saki. Extending 3 miles from this ledge in a south-
westerly direction is a rocky bank.

NO SIMA LIGHT.— On No sima Point, at an elevation of 134 ft. above
high water, is exhibited di fixed hriyht light of the first order, visible in clear
weather from a distance of 20 miles. The tower is octagonal shaped, and
painted white.

Approaching the Gulf of Yedo from the southward or westward, in clear
weather, the chain of islands running southward from it are unmistakeable
landmarks, and Cape Idsu can scarcely be mistaken. Omae saki, the point
25 miles westward of the cape, is low, while the cape, as before stated, is
high, bold, and rocky. From 1^ mile eastward of Mikomoto (Eock Island)
a N.E. \ E. course will lead 4 miles N.W. of Tries Island, from which posi-
tion the centre of the entrance of the Uraga Channel bears N.E. by E.,
distant 22 miles. Care must, however, be observed when approaching Cape
Sagami not to be drawn into Odawara Bay by the indraught mentioned.
Should Vries Island be visible, this danger is easily guarded against by not
bringing that island southward of S.W. by S.

Vessels approaching the gulf from the eastward are recommended not to
hug the shore of the South end of Awa too closely, as dangerous shoals are
known to exist in that neighbourhood.

To avoid the Mela Ledge and all other known danger when rounding from
the eastward, do not bring the eastern extreme of land seen to bear eastward
of E.N.E. until the extreme of Su saki bears N. by W. ; and when rounding
from the westward do not bring the extreme of Su saki westward of N. by W.
until the eastern extreme of land is E.N.E. At night, or in thick weather,
when the light on No-sima Point is not seen, soundings of 40 fathoms may
be considered as indicating close proximity to these dangers.

In steering for the Uraga Channel the Tree Saddle Hill on the South end
of Sagami Peninsula will be readily recognized ; and on nearing the chan-
nel the Ashika sima (Plymouth Rocks) will be plainly seen on its western
side. Give these rocks and the Ka yama a berth of half a mile in passing,
or at night keep without the red rays of the lights, and after rounding Kanon
saki at a little less than that distance, steer N. by W. j W., which will load

THE BAY OF YEDO— DIRECTIONS. 1191

to the westward of the buoy off the Saratoga Spit, and continuing this course
when the lightvessel of Treaty Point is seen steer to pass to the eastward of
her, taking care not to bring the light to the northward of N. J W. The
elevated ground above Mandarin BluflP, at one mile northward of Treaty
Point, showing to seaward in brown cliffs well wooded to the summit, will
be readily recognised ; the bluff being the most eastern.

The lightvessel may be passed within a cable's length, after rounding
which steer to pass northward of the red buoy with staff and cage moored
on the northern edge of the bank off Mandarin Bluff, and anchor as con-
venient.

A sailing ship will have to make short tacks when working into Yoko-
hama Bay with a westerly wind, as North of Mandarin bluff the deep water
channel is narrowed to li miles ; the lead here, however, as is the case round
nearly the whole shores of Yedo Bay, gives fair warning.

Working through the Uraga Channel.— With a northerly wind a vessel
after passing Cape Sagami may stand across and tack close to the opposite
shore, as there are no rocks at any distance off it to the northward of Kanaya
Point, and to the southward of the point the dangers show. If unable to
fetch this point it would not be prudent to stand into the bay between the
point and Uki sima, a small rocky island 150 ft. high to the southward as
foul ground exists there. This bay will be readily recognised from a dis-
tance, as it is the sea shore of a valley between the Miogani yama and Sveno
yama ranges, and two small hills are in the centre of it.

In making the western board, the foul ground in Kaneda Bay, as well aa
off Senda saki, and along the shore between it and Kanon saki, must be
remembered. The shore of Kadsusa Bay, northward of the Mioo^ani yama
range, may be approached by the lead, tacking in 5 fathoms.

If unable to fetch Kanon saki on the starboard board, be careful to tack
short of the bearing for clearing the Ka yama. Short tacks should be made
when to windward of Kanon saki, not shoaling towards the opposite or
Kadsusa shore to less than 9 fathoms. When Saru sima bears W. by S.
stand no farther eastward than to bring Kanon saki to bear S. ^ E. until
Saru sima is S.W. I W., when the spit will have been weathered. At night
do not bring the light off Treaty Point to bear West of N. by W. ^ W. until
Kanon saki light bears S. i E. Long boards may now be again made, but
do not shoal on either tack to less than 5 fathoms, nor off Yokohama Bluff
to less than 7 fathoms. There are some shoal patches of 3 j to 5 fathoms
sand and mud, off the western side of the bay between Saru sima and Mis-
sissippi Bay, but none are known at a greater distance off than 2 miles and
they may be avoided by not bringing Saru sima eastward of South.

The Tides are much affected by the winds, but both flood and ebb sweep
with great velocity round Saratoga Spit. The flood runs N.W. by W. and

1192 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

the ebb S.W. by S., about 3i knots an hour at springs. Generally the flood
strean[i sets a vessel on to the western shore.

VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH-EAST OF JAPAN.

A very remarkable range of detached islets and rocks extends for nearly
300 miles in a S.S.E. direction from the entrance of the Gulf of Yedo. There
is no portion of the ocean which has been more misrepresented than this in
our older works, and the great number of supposed discoveries rendered the
charts so confused that no adequate idea could be gained of their number or
arrangement. The author endeavoured, in 1858, to reconcile these vague
surmises and great discrepancies, so as to give a more correct representation
of their real character.*

This geographical confusion has arisen no doubt from the unsuspected in-
fluence of the great Japanese current, which rushes through the group with
exaggerated and uncertain velocity, and thus afi'ecting the dead reckoning of
many or most of the ships which announced discoveries, most of which are
to the eastward of the true positions. It will be unnecessary to discuss these
varying accounts, since they are now in a great measure reconciled by exact
observations ; and this is of the greatest importance, seeing that an increas-
ing commerce between China, Japan, and North-Western America, passes
through these channels. What follows will, therefore, be confined to a brief
description of what is well ascertained, connected with an identification, when
possible, with what has been but vaguely surmised.

These islands are all bold-to, some appearing to rise like a wall from the
depths of the ocean, and they have but few outlying hidden dangers. The
lead therefore in foggy weather will give little or no warning, as in some
cases no soundings will be obtained with 150 fathoms line within half a mile
of the shore.

The Currents also in this part of the Japan stream are influenced by the
prevailing winds at the difi'erent seasons, and capricious, heavy current
rips being of very common occurrence, have often been mistaken for
skoals. These rips are more constantly met with close to the islands and
rocks than otherwise, and in the event of getting into one at night or in a
fog, it may be assumed, when the vessel's position is not accurately known,
that danger is near. It may be well to bear in mind that in calms, although
the stream may appear to be hurrying the vessel on to an island, if the island
be steep, it will always turn to the right or left on approaching within a
certain distance of the rocks ; not so, however, should shallow water extend
any distance, when the anchor must be depended on.

* See Transactions of tke Britieli Association, 1858.

VOLCANIC ISLETS, SOUTH OF JAPAN. 1193

The usual set of the current through these islands is north-easterly, and
the rate ranges from 1 f to 3 knots, but the islands frequently deflect it from
its course, and the eddies always found on the margin of great currents are
here particularly numerous and active, so that it is not unusual, especially
among the northernmost of the islands and in the vicinity of the coast of
Nipon, to encounter a set precisely in the opposite direction to that antici-
pated. Close to Fatsizio and Vries Islands, at less than one-third of a mile
oflP, a regular change of tidal stream was observed, and also between these
islands and the coast.

Lot's Wife or Black Rock, in lat. 29° 47' N., long. 140° 22i' E., is a tall
pinnacle rising about 300 ft. above the sea ; in clear weather it can be seen
at a distance of 25 miles, and bears a remarkable resemblance to a ship
under all sail. A cast of the lead within 8 miles of this rock gave no sound-
ings with 160 fathoms of line.

Ponafidin or St. Peter Island, 1,328 feet in height and li mile in length
East and West, was discovered in 1820 by Lieutenant Ponafidin of the
Russian Navy, and named by him Three Hills Island. Lat. 30° 33' N., long.
140° 15' E.

Smith Island. — H.M.S. Tribune passed this island in 1859, and describes
it as a high pinnacle-looking rock, in lat. 31° 15' N., long. 139° 52' E., about
250 feet in height, three-quarters of a mile in circumference, with heavy
breakers extending apparently a quarter of a mile from it, and a small rock
close to its North side. A volcanic disturbance was noticed in 1870 at 4 miles
N.E. by N. from this island.

Bayonnaise, in lat. 32° 0' 40" N., long. 140° 0' E., forms a curve a cable
long North and South, with several hummocks on it, its northern summit
being about 26 ft. in height; several rocks extend a quarter of a mile off its
N.W. and N.E. sides.

Aoga Siina, in lat. 32° 37^ N., long. 139° 47f E., is 3 miles long, and
visible 36 miles off in clear weather. Its coasts are steep, and the only land-
ing place is on the East side, where there is a rock level with the water at
a little distance from the land. It is inhabited and cultivated on the North
and N.W. sides.

FATSIZIO ISLAND, the most southern of the islands visited by the Actcron
in 1861, is 8^ miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and 4 miles wide at
its broadest part. In shape it is nearly an oblong, rounded at the N.W.
end, while at its S.E. end a slight curve forms a bay, the spot of observation
which (close to some small huts) is in lat. 33° 4' 24' N., long. 139° 50' 24' E.
Anchorage was obtained off this bay in 1 6 fathoms, sand and gravel, at less
than a mile from the shore, but exposed from S.S.W. to N.N.E., and a vessel
would always be liable to experience a heavy swell. There were 30 fathoms,
dark sand, at about 2 miles off this shore, but the rest of the coast line

I. A. 7 N

1194 THE JAPANESE ARCaiPELAGO.

appeared to share the bold features and to be as steep-to as the generality of
these islands.

This island is a penal settlement of Japan. Its highest part is the northern,
where a mountain reaches an elevation of 2,840 ft. Approaching from the
eastward the island appears as two.

At the S.E. end of Fatsizio are two or three small streams of delicious
xvater falling down the rocks, and in fine weather and smooth water, boats
may readily obtain an abundant supply.

Kodsine is a small and nearly oval-shaped island 1,820 ft. high, IJ mile
long, and nearly 1 mile broad ; it lies westward of the highest part of
Fatsizio.

Broughtoii Rock (Kanawa), in lat. 33°39'N., long. 139° 18' E., is a small
inaccessible islet, about 60 ft. high, flat-topped, and so bold that at about a
third of a mile from its N.E. side no soundings could be obtained with 180
fathoms line. The north-easterly current in the neighbourhood of this islet
was found to be particularly strong, running nearly 4 knots an hour.

Miaki and Mikura. — Miaki Sima is 2,690 ft. high, and has a flat summit ;
the N.E. end of the island is a little more elevated than the S.W. end. The
highest part of Miaki is in lat. 34° 5' N., long. 139° 35' E., and the highest
part of Mikura in 33° 52' N., 139° 37' E. ; the latter lies about 17 miles to
the N.E. of Broughton Eock. Mikura is called Prince Island ; and Miaki,
Volcano Island in former charts.

Bangers. — There is a cluster of rocks about 2 J miles to the S.W. of Miaki,
and Broughton says, " there are, in addition, some black rocks 2 or 3 miles
from the eastern point of the island." A cluster of rocks is also marked on
some charts at 8 miles S.E. of the East end of Miaki.

Onohara is a small islet "W.S.W. 5 miles distant from Miaki, composed of
a cluster of high detached rocky pinnacles, the centre one being perforated
in two places.

Redfield Rocks (Sanbon-take) are the most western of the chain of
islands and rocks South of the Gulf of Yedo, and the most dangerous of the
whole group. They consist of two patches of black rocks extending nearly
3 miles N.N.E. and S.S.W. The southern rocks, in lat. 33° 56' N., long.
138° 48i' E., are the highest, about 20 feet above high water, while the
northern are only about half that height. The hand lead will afford no
warning until close upon this dangerous cluster.

Kosu Sima, in lat. 34° 12i' N., long. 139° 8 J' E. (centre), and elevated
2,000 ft. above the sea, is 3^ miles long N.E. and S.W., and may be recog-
nized by a remarkable snow-white cliff on its western side, and a white patch
on its summit, to the northward of the cliff. There is a safe channel 15
miles wide between Kosu sima and Miaki. Two small rocky islets lie close
together, about half a mile off the centre of the eastern shore of Kosu sima.
About_2 miles southward of the S.W. point of Kosu sima are the Onghashi

THE EAST COAST OF NIPON. 1195

Rocks, which should be given a safe berth, as their jagged appearance would
lead to the belief that there are many hidden dangers in their immediate
neighbourhood.

Sikine Sima is low, with a small islet off its North end. It is H ™ilQ
long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and lies 5 miles N.E. of Kosu Sima. One of the
vessels of the American squadron passed between these islands and saw no
danger ; there is therefore reason to believe that the channel is safe.

Nil Sima is about 1^ mile N.E. of Sikine, and from its broken outline
appears from a distance as several islands, Its extent is 5 miles. North and
South, and its most elevated part 1,490 ft. above the sea. There is a small
low islet a short distance off its S.E. point.

Utone is a conical islet, 660 ft. high, lying N. ^ E., about 2J miles from
Nii sima ; detached rocks lie near its shores.

To Sima, bearing N. ^ W. 2 miles from Utone, is 1 mile in diameter,
pyramidal shaped, and its summit 1,730 ft. above the sea.

VRIES ILAND (0 sima) the largest and most northern of the chain front-
ing the Gulf of Yedo, is 10 miles N.N.E. of To sima, its south-eastern point
being in lat. 34° 40' N., long. 139° 27' E. The island is oval-shaped, about
8 miles in extent N.N.W. ^ W. and S.S.E. | E., and 5 miles wide, and its
summit attains an elevation of 2,550 ft. At its centre is an active volcano,
over which a white vapour cloud is generally floating, and frequently, at
night, it brightly reflects the glare of the subterranean fires at work in the
crater beneath, forming, in clear weather, a conspicuous landmark, visible
by night or day for many leagues. Observation Point, a bluff forming the
N.W. end of the island, is 350 ft. high, and, when seen from the N.E. or
S.W., at a distance appears as an island.

There are several villages on the island. On the North side a narrow
bank of soundings affords a precarious anchorage in from 12 to 18 fathoms.
A junk harbour is situated at the S.E. point of the island. Landing may be
effected at the Korth village, or in the junk harbour. The inhabitants were
civil and hospitable, but averse to strangers visiting the volcano.

THE EAST COAST OF NIPON.

Mela Head to Cape Erratatsi and Ohigasi Saki (King and Blanco) is
a wild and dangerous coast, skirted by off-lying rocks ; the projecting points
are generally rugged cliffs of yellow clay or gravel. It is well wooded ; the
high land ends about Ohigasi saki in a long backed hill, terminating in a
couple of thumb-shaped pinnacles, and is fronted by a bold chalky cliff.

The coast, when partially obscured by fog, is difficult to identify when
coming from the eastward ; a ship thus approaching Yedo Bay is liable to
be set considerably out of her reckoning by the Japan stream. The tempe-

1196 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

rature of the sea is a useful guide, and the soundings will give good warn-
ing if attended to. Mela Head sometimes shows out in relief when all the
coast eastward is obscured by fog.

INABOYE SAKI and LIGHTHOUSE.— From Ohigasi saki north-eastward
to Nakuno saki, a distance of 100 miles, the coast is low, and for the most
part sandy. Inaboye saki is a projecting rocky cape, on which is a smooth,
bare, and conspicuous hill, about 200 ft. high ; reefs extend from the cape
fully a mile, but it may be rounded in safety in 40 fathoms water. Ship-
wrecks are frequent on the sandy beach North of the cape, caused, it is
believed, by the effects of the currents, which meet here and set a vessel
towards the shore.

The lighthouse on Inaboye saki, completed in November, 1874, is a circu-
lar brick building, painted white, 105 feet high. From it is shown a revolv-
ing Iright light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every half minute, elevated
168 ft. above the sea, and visible 19 miles off.

Arkold Rock, originally reported by the Russian frigate ArTcold in 1859,
was considered to lie in lat. 36° 15' N., long. 141° 28' E. ; again reported in
thick weather, by the Russian vessel of war Sihole in 1870, was said to be
20 feet high, about 1 1 miles to the southward of the spot in which it wa&
first reported.

H.M.S. Thistle on two occasions in 1873 passed close to the last-named
position, but saw nothing of the rock, although from the state of the weather
a rock 20 ft. high must have been visible. H.M.S. Ringdove, in 1874, made
a search for this danger under favourable conditions of wind and weather,
but without success ; good observations had previously been obtained, and
the adjacent land, 35 miles distant, was visible H.M.S. Modeste, in 1877,
passed over the assigned position of the rock, but without seeing any signs
of the danger ; good observations had been obtained an hour previously.
Arkold Rock has in consequence of these searches and reports been expunged
from the charts.

Choosi Point is on the North side of Inaboye promontory. The Tone
Gawa, a rapid river, flows into the sea on the South side of the point, but
owing to the heavy swell from the Pacific its bar can seldom be crossed by
ships' boats, and at times native craft cannot attempt it. There is anchorage
in 6 fathoms, sand, 1 mile off the bar, but it is not recommended. The
soundings deepen gradually to 20 fathoms at 4 miles from the shore.

North from Choosi Point for 45 miles the shore is wooded ; it may be
passed along at a distance of a mile, in 9 fathoms. From Machama the shore
is bounded by low cliffs, and North of Kawajiri (a populous fishing town)
hill ranges commence.

SENDAI BAY lies on the East coast of Nipon, in lat. 38° 20' N., the
land North ot it is deeply indented, high, and steep, and apparently thinly

SENDAI BAY. 1197

populated, fishing boats being seen only off Simidzu. Most of the bays are
open to seaward.

At 10 miles from the coast inland there is a high, easily recognisable
mountain, about 4,600 ft. high, in lat. 39° 28' N., long. 141° 41' E., ap-
proximately.

The group of islands in the N.W. corner of Sendai Bay should not be
approached nearer than 2 miles, as reefs and rocks extend off them to a
considerable distance, and there is no anchorage even for a small vessel on
the western shore of the bay.

Cape Amitsihama, the East point of Sendai Bay, has deep water close-to,
and may be passed within 2 cables. Soundings in from 16 to 19 fathoms
will be found between the cape and Nagasima Island, and anchorage for the
largest ships may be obtained in from 12 to 9 fathoms, sand, off the North
end of the island.

On the shore of the mainland, abreast the North end of Nagasima Island,
there is a bay half a mile wide, which affords anchorage in from 7 to 9 fa-
thoms, mud. The bay may be recognised by its having the only white
sandy beach in the vicinity, and from a wooded islet lying off its northern
point.

A single rock, which dries, lies East 2 cables from the southern extreme
of Nagasima Island.

Both the above anchorages afford shelter from North and East winds,
but a heavy sea is thrown in by winds from East round northerly to N.W.

Matsu Sima Bay. — The southern entrance of this extensive but shallow
harbour, in 38° 20' N., and 141° 5' E., appeared completely obstructed by
low reefs, and according to the fishermen, no channel exists between the
sunken rocks. The northern entrance (4 miles to the northward) is very-
shallow, there being only 4 ft. water over a rocky bar in a narrow channel,
but good shelter for two or three vessels may be obtained off it in 5 or 6
fathoms, mud, open only to the East.

Ichinomaki River, of considerable importance, falls into the sea at the
North part of Sendai Bay. It is reported to be navigable by junks for 70
miles, and boats can reach Morioka, the capital of Nambu, situated 120 miles
from its mouth. The town of Ichinomaki at the entrance was not seen in
passing. The anchorage is a roadstead, open to the South and S.E., but it
is believed that with the wind from those quarters good shelter could be
found in the East part of the bay.

Kitakami Eiver enters the bay in lat. 38° 26' N., long. 141° 15' E. Kita-
kanii light consists of a lantern similar to a ship's masthead light, and beino-
in front of the town, it can with difficulty be distinguished from the lights of
the houses and junks. It is shown from a mast on the East bank of the
river, and elevated 52 ft.

1198 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGa

Kingkasan, or Goldmine Island, dedicated to religious purposes, is re-
sorted to by pilgrims from all parts of Japan ; a peak 1,000 ft. high and
wooded to the summit, is conspicuous. The deer on the island are numerous
and considered sacred. Mica in large quantities is found in the soil.

Between this island and the main a depth of 3 fathoms can be carried by
passing at one-third the distance from the island. There is anchorage on tha
South side of the narrows.

LIGHT. — A granite tower, 28 feet high, was completed in 1876, on the^
East side of Kingkasan Island, in lat. 38° 19' N., long. 141° 36' E. From
it is shown a fixed Iright light seaward between N. by E. and S.W. ^ W. It
is elevated 178 ft. and visible 19 miles off.

Aikawa, near Kingkasan, is a safe anchorage, and is the first sheltered
spot for vessels bound to the northward from Yedo Gulf. It is easy of ac-
cess, and the light now shown from Kingkasan Island will guide to its
position. The reef projecting 3 cables from the southern cape is dangerous.
It breaks only when the wind blows hard, or when there is a heavy swell.

It is not recommended to pass inside Hira Sima, Asi Sima, and their con-
tiguous groups.

The coast to the northward is at present little known to navigators ; it
presents a deeply indented outline, probably concealing some fine harbours.
The shores appear bold.

Kamaishi Harbour, in lat. 39° 18' N., long. 142° E. (approximate), is
more easy of access to a sailing vessel than Yamada Harbour, which is
situated 10 miles to the northward. On the S.W. part of Sangan Sima ar&
some white quartz holders, and also on the cape N.N.W. af the island.
Sangan is steep, well wooded, not distinguishable from the coast at a dis-
tance of 6 or 7 miles, excepting when approached from the northward.

There are two rocks near the centre of the harbour, lying North and South
of each other, and about a third of a cable apart. On the northern rock
there is 6 ft. at low water, and on the southern rock 2 ft. The northern
rock is marked by a hlach huoy, surmounted by a circular cage, the top of
which is 8 ft. above water ; the buoy is moored to the North of the rock in
1 1 fathoms at low water. The southern rock is marked by a red beacon, con-
sisting of a massive stone foundation, on which stands an iron post, sur-
mounted by a cage, which is 19 ft. above high water. Vessel must not pass
between the buoy and the beacon.

Kamaishi is not an open port, and at present there is no traffic whatever.
At about 10 miles inland is a district abounding in iron ore of good quality,
which will probably soon be worked by the Government. A railway is in
course of construction, also a pier in connection therewith.

Yamada Harbour is a large circular bsin surrounded by mountains up-
wards of 1,000 ft. in height, and is entered by a broad pass or strait running

SIRIYA SAKI AND LIGHTHOUSE. 1199

S.W. between high bold shores, in which there is a depth of from 20 to 50
fathoms. A reef extends nearly 1 cable South from Miojin Saki, the inner
North point of the entrance to be avoided by keeping in mid-channel ; after
rounding this point haul up N.W., and passing a quarter of a mile North of
sima, the larger of the two wooded islands, anchor off the centre of the
town of Yama in 6 fathoms. When standing in for the anchorage the
■water shoals to 7 fathoms, and then deepens to 10, after which it decreases
gradually. The eastern part of the bay is deep, rocky, and exposed, there-
fore not recommended as an anchorage. It is shallow between the two
islands at the head of the harbour. The small island Ko Sima is in lat. 39°
27' 17" N., long. 141° 59' E.

The town or village of Yamada is populous, and inhabited almost exclu-
sively by fishermen, who appear ignorant, uncouth, and dishonest. The
high land on the North may be easily recognized when coming from the
northward or southward, in following the coast of which, it forms the most
salient point. Outside the port the water changes its colour, but there is no
bottom in 38 fathoms at 2 miles from the shore. Yamada is the best an-
chorage at present known on the N.E. coast of Japan.

It is high water, full and change, in Yamada Harbour at 6^ 30"" ; springs
rise 4 ft.

Miyako Port opens at 8 miles North of Yamada, and is a place of consi-
derable trade, situated on the western shore of an inlet about 3 miles deep
junks anchor outside in from 7 to 4 fathoms, mud. The anchorage is open
to the eastward. About the time of the equinoxes strong N.E. winds occa-
sionally blow, and in the winter strong westerly winds. The point of Tayo-
mani that forms it is sunnounted by a conical hill.

The coast North of Miyako takes a N.N.E. direction, and is a shelving
table land, bordered by broken cliff and backed by high flat ranges, which
rise to about 2,000 ft., but the land gradually decreases in elevation towards
the North until about Sanemuva Point, where it becomes low. JTuro Saki
stands well out, and may be recognized by its small range of hills about 700
feet high. North of Kuro Saki the cliffs get lower, and the long flat slopes
run out into fine tapering points.

Two isolated mountains can be seen behind Hon-na-mi. The land is
densely wooded.

Cape de Vries is low and flat, about 330 feet high, and is remarkable
from the way it stands out between two bays. The Dupleix sailed along this
coast from Cape Kiori to Cape Vries, at a distance of from 2 to 4 miles and
saw no danger except close to the shore.

SIRIYA SAKI and LIGHTHOUSE.-At Siriya Saki, the N.E. point of
Nipon Island, the coast slopes towards the cape from an elevation of 1 265

1200 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

feet, and appears like an island at a distance. The lighthouse, completed
on the cape iu 1876, is a circular tower 94 ft. high, painted white. From
the tower, at an elevation of 150 ft., is shown a fixed bright light, visible 18
miles off.

A fog hell is sounded by machinery in thick weather, 1 5 strokes in every
minute.

Off the cape, at the distance of 3 cables, is a small white rock, 70 ft. high,
and at 2 miles to the south-westward is another rather larger than the for-
mer, lying 1 cable from the shore. The coast within 4 miles of the cape is
studded with rocks, and very foul.

Rattler Rock lies E. by N. f N., \\ mile from Siriya Saki lighthouse,
and is a ledge having 5 ft. least water. It rarely breaks, and when it does
it is hard to distinguish between the break and the tide rip.

Anchorage. — The Thahor anchored 2 miles South of Siriya Saki. This an-
chorage would be useful to vessels bound West through Tsugar Strait during
the winter season, and obliged to anchor. The lead is a safe guide. The
bottom at 23 fathoms is fine black volcanic sand, gradually changing to
coarse brown, with a few shells. At a depth of 3 fathoms and less the
bottom is stony. From a vessel at anchor in 7 to 9 fathoms the light at
Siriya Saki is visible. A small vessel might anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms with
good shelter. The rise and fall of tide appears to be about 3 ft.

DIRECTIONS. — Vessels bound from the Gulf of Yedo to the eastern en-
trance of the Strait of Tsugar, will, after passing Su Saki and Cape Erra-
tatsi (C. King) experience the full force of the current setting them to the
E.N.E. The land about this cape is high and wooded, and the coast in its
locality should be given a good berth, as heavy breakers have been seen
some distance off shore.

Caution is requisite in doubling Ohigasi Saki (Cape Blanco), as the
American squadron passed over the edge of a reef in 22 fathoms water
S.S.E., distant about 5 miles from this cape, and from the heavy overfalls,
in which fishing boats were anchored, there is probably much less water
upon its shoalest part. As it was near nightfall it was impossible to ex-
amine this reef, but its position is about lat. 35° 8' N., long. 140° 34' E.,
and Cape Blanco in lat. 35° 13' N., long. 140° 32J' E.

From this cape to Tsugar Strait, as far as is known, the coast may be ap-
proached within from 2 to 3 miles. The Oya Siwo flows to the southward
along the N.E. coast as far South as Inaboye Saki, and its average width is
from 100 to 200 miles, outside of which the Kuro Siwo flows to the north-
eastward. This coast is known to be subject to strong gales and much
heavy weather. On nearing the entrance of Tsugar Strait the American
squadron experienced a sudden fall in the temperature of the sea of 15°

THE SETO UCHI, OR INLAND SEA. 1201

to 20', as the squadron ran from the nortk-easterly current into the cold
current setting to the southward.

THE SETO UCHI, OR INLAND SEA.

The great inland sea of Japan, called by the Japanese Seto Uchi (inner
strait), is enclosed between the S.W. coast of Nipon, which entirely bounds
it on the l^orth and East ; and the islands of Kiusiu and Sikok, which
bound it on the West and South. It extends somewhat in an East and West
direction, in length 240 miles, with a breadth varying from 3 to 30 miles-
It has six divisions, called nadas or seas, taking their names generally from
the provinces, the coasts of which they wash. There is a great maritime
trade along its populous shores, as well as the through traffic to Osaka, one
of the chief seats of commerce of the empire, and the seaport of its capital,
Kioto.

The Seto Uchi can be navigated with safety at all seasons of the year, and
even under favourable circumstances during the night, the more particularly
now that a correct chart of it has been published from the Japanese manu-
script survey, to which has been added the surveys of Commanders Ward,
Bullock, Brooker, and St. John, and Navigating-Lieutenant Maxwell. In
the winter months, too, when the westerly gales are so prevalent, sailing
vessels would probably gain time by tiding through this sea, rather than by
endeavouring to beat round Satano misaki (Cape Chichakoff), against the
Kuro Siwo or Japan Stream. As an instance of this, a fine clipper ship was
nearly three weeks getting round Cape Chichakofi', whilst the Adceon sailed
through the inland sea in nine days, meeting with one westerly gale, and
anchoring every night.

A very destructive species of Mollusk inhabits the Seto Uchi, and might
prove very injurious to ships' bottoms. Specimens of new timber were found
at Awa sima, the perforations in which were a third of an inch in diameter.

Supplies. — Water of excellent quality can be procured almost at any an-
chorage in the Seto Uchi or Kii Channel, and is brought off in boats, in
buckets, at a very small cost. About 70 tons of charcoal were purchased at
the various harbours in the Kii Channel, for fuel for steaming, at from 4 to
11 dollars per ton, superior for such purpose to the best Welsh coal.

Tides. — The tides and currents of the Seto Uchi are as yet but imperfectly
known, but are found to be regular at its East entrance ; those of the
Boungo Channel are quite unknown. The tide wave comes from the Pacific
Ocean by the Kii and Boungo Channels ; from the latter it branches East
and West, meeting the Kii Channel tide at about Awa sima, in long.
I. A 7 o

1202 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

133° 38' E., at the eastern entrance of the Bingo nada. The tides run
strongly in the narrow channels, especially on the western stream, and whirl
about very considerably, so as to render steering difficult.

We first describe the Boungo Channel, then the Kii Channel, and after
that the Isumi nada and the diflFerent nadas to the westward as far as
Simonoseki Strait, by which the Sea of Japan is joined to the Seto Uchi or
Inland Sea.

The BOUNGO CHANNEL, the western of the two entrances on the East
coast to the Seto Uchi, is quite safe to navigate as far as it is at present
known, and the projecting points and islands were found correctly marked
on the Admiralty chart by the allied squadron under the command of Vice-
Admiral Sir A. L. Kuper, K.C.B., which entered the Seto Uchi by it in
September, 1864. No dangers were seen in the route they adopted, in
addition to those marked on the chart. The western points of the different
islands and capes on the eastern shore, from Okino sima on the South to
Cape Okanaba on the North, are well defined, and apparantly steep-to; so
is also the land on the western shore in the vicinity of the town of Kitsiku
and along the N.E. coast of Kiusiu.

Okino Sima, forming the eastern point of the South entrance to this chan-
nel, is 1,150 ft. high, conspicuous, and may be seen in clear weather from a
distance of 35 miles. To the northward of it the space appears to be rocky
foul ground.

Euryalus Rock, named after H.M.S. Euryalus, is a small rocky islet, 50
ft. high, lying in the middle of the Boungo Channel, 26 miles N.W. of Okino
sima. It is surrounded by rocky shoals, some above water, to the distance
of half a mile. It occupies a most excellent position for a lighthouse.

Takanaba, the island lying nearly in the middle of the northern entrance
of the channel, has two small rocks above water at 2 cables N.W. of it.
There appears to be a good passage on either side of this island. The current
is not strong.

The KII CHANNEL, lying between Sikok and Nipon, is 80 miles
across at its entrance from the Pacific, decreasing to 15 miles at 30 or 40
miles within, which width it preserves for 20 miles farther, or up to Awadji
sima. The coast of Awa to the West from Muroto saki to Naruto is as yet
unknown; but the coast of Kii from Go sima to Kata, along which vessels
pass to and from the Seto Uchi and Yedo, has been surveyed or explored.
The fairway from the Kii Channel into the Seto Uchi is by Isumi Strait, but
there is a more direct route, by taking which (if not bound to Osaka or
Hiogo) a saving of 35 miles is effected, viz., the Naruto Passage, West of
Awadji, but this channel should not be attempted excepting under the most
favourable circumstances, that is, at slack water or within half an hour of it,

THE KII CHANNEL. 1203

and at neap tides, and even then it is highly dangerous. The coast on the
western side of the Kii Channel from Murato saki to the rocky^ point 0-iso
at the western entrance to the Naruto Passage is from the Japanese manu-
script.

Muroto Saki, the western entrance point to Kii Channel, is a steep head-
land, 400 ft. high, and when first seen in clear weather from the eastward or
westward appears as an island. Another hill, 2 miles to the northward, and
770 ft. high, also makes an island, but may be distinguished from Muroto
Saki by the scarcity of trees.

I Sima lies nearly in the centre of the western shore of the Kii Channel at
its narrowest part; its southern peak is visible 30 miles. The channels
between the reefs westward of I sima should not be attempted.

A roch was reported in 1873, by the steam-ship Alexander, at 9 miles S.S.E.
of I sima, 10 ft. high. Lat. 33° 30' N., 134° 30' E.

Wada Sima Harbour, in lat. 34° 0' N., long. 134° 39' E., has a good an-
chorage in from 4 to 6 fathoms water, just inside a low point with trees on
it on the East side of the harbour. The South and West parts of the harbour
are very shoal.

0-Iso, the projecting sandy point N.E. of Sikok, slopes down from a hill
named Shiro-mune yama, 290 ft. high, ending in a bare conical mound. East,

3 cables from 0-iso, are some rocks awash, with deep water 1 cable outside
them.

NARUTO PASSAGE (literally, gate of the sea which makes a great roar-
ing) has hitherto been considered to be a whirpool, and not without cause.
In its'narrowest part it is only 7 cables wide, and this is further narrowed
to 3 cables by a reef on its eastern side.

The passage may be taken at the first and second hour before and after
change of stream, with the tide, and for the first three-quarters of an hour
before or after change, against the tide, in fine weather ; but in bad weather
it should^not be attempted, as the passage then breaks right across, and it is
di£B.cult to distinguish the channel.

Vessels must be careful to have the passage well open before approaching
it, and at all times great caution must be observed.

Tohi Sima, 93 ft.'^high, is a conical wooded islet, lying S. by "W. nearly
three-quarters^of a mile from the narrowest part of Naruto Passage. It has
shoal water ofi'its North end for \h cable, but may be approached on the
eastern side to 1 cable. A rock, 1 cable in extent, East and West, with from

4 to 5 fathoms on it, and steep-to, lies S.W. 4 cables from Tobi sima.
Tides. — The tide sweeps through Naruto in about a N. by W. and S. by E.

direction, with a velocity at springs of from 10 to 11 knots, but slacking
about an hour before and after change either way to from 7 to 8 knots.
At springs there is scarcely any slack water, but at neaps about a quarter of
an hour.

1204 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAaO.

It is high water, full and change, at Fuk ura, at 6'> 17"", springs rise 7 ft.,
neaps (probably) 4i ft. The north-western stream makes at 2^ hours before
high water at Fuk ura, changing every 6 hours nearly. North of the Naruto
Passage the tides are anomalous.

Anchorage — If wishing to wait for slack water, or change of stream, an-
chorage may be found on the Awadji shore, at Maru yama, on the North
side of the Naruto ; and at Fuk ura on the South, in 4 to 8 fathoms. There
is also excellent anchorage in Minotoye Ba}^, 5 miles to the westward.

Yura is a town on the S.E. side of Awadji. A low island, IJ mile in
length, with a bluff hill on its North point, and a large granite fort on its
South, lies like a breakwater fronting a bay, and forms the harbour, which
nas narrow entrances North and South. The North entrance has from 10 to
11 ft. at low water springs, and is 120 yards wide; the South is a narrow
opening, with 2 to 3 ft. water. The broadest part of the harbour is half a
mile, with anchorage in 4 to 6 fathoms, mud. A vessel drawing 16 ft. could
enter at high water springs, and lie secure in smooth water for repair. The
junks anchor somewhere to the northward of this to wait for tide.

Anchorage may also be obtained in 2 to 5 fathoms outside the island on
the sand-bank off it, with the outer extreme of the bluff N.W., or of the fort
S.S.W. ; but it is very steep on the edge, and the holding ground is probably
not good.

Kata is a town on the eastern side of Isumi Strait, on the South side of a
bay North of Takura saki, and where there is anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms.
There is a fine landing pier here, 200 yards in length, for the use of the
Daimio, who resides at Wakayama, and to whom Kata belongs. Off Takura
saki, and in Kata Bay as far as Diyi Island, reefs covering at high water
extend about 3 cables off the shore.

It is high water, full and change, at Yura and at Kata, at 6*" 5". Springs
rise 6^ ft. ; neaps, A^ ft.

Osaki Bay is IJ mile deep, and open to the W.N.W. The village of
Osaki stands on the shore of a narrow inlet on its North side, where small
vessels can find good shelter in 5 to 2 fathoms, which they can also obtain in
Smotz ura, the innermost bay on the South side of the inlet. The only dan-
ger is a rocky patch of 1 fathom 2 cables S.E. of the North entrance head.
The South point of Tree Islet should be given a berth of more than 1 cable.
Over the village of Osaki is Takadoosi yama, 591 ft. high, a smooth- topped
hill, with two stunted trees on its summit, conspicuous from off shore. The
South shore is hilly, the South entrance bluff, being about 400 ft. high.
Fresh water and small supplies can be readily obtained.

OMno Sima, W. by S. ^ S. 2 miles from the entrance of Osaki, has a round
hill, 275 ft. high, and is bare of trees. Djino Sima, 1 mile East of it, is 400
feet high, has high cliffs towards the sea, and is wooded. A rock awash lies
about 2 cables South of it, and some islets further South.

THE KII CHANNEL. 1205

Miya Saki, 220 ft. high, lies 2 miles South of Okino sima, and may be
passed at 3 cables.

Tskahara Bay is 5 miles deep and 6 miles across, between Miya saki and
Sirasai saki, its North and South points of entrance. At its head is the Bmj
of Hiroivatali, with anchorage in 7 to 8 fathoms, even bottom and mud, and
well sheltered from all winds except W. by S. A pier at the South end of
the sandy beach at its head and ofiF a small town, protects small craft in a
shallow inner harbour.

Two islands, Kura sima and Taka sima, lie off the southern shore of Tska-
hara Bay. The Karamo Group of small islands, with reets about their North
sides, lie N.N.E. of Taka sima and West of Hirowatali Bay, with a cluster
of rocks E.N.E. of them balf way to the shore, the ground about which has
not been examined.

Golden Rock, so named from the large amount of property lost there, is a
very small patch, nearly awash at low water, and so steap that the lead gives
but little warning, there being 17 fathoms at 100 yards on the outside. It
lies 3 miles N.N.E. \ E. of Sirasai saki, N.W. J W. U mile from Taka sima
Hill, and S. by E. f E. from Miya saki.

Sunq-ami, three-quarters of a mile North of the West point of Karamo, is
a sunken rock, with 6 ft. over it, and equally steep-to; it is also IJ mile
N. by E. of Taka sima, and S.E. ^ E. 2i miles from the point S.E. of Miya
saki.

Unless desiring anchorage, or working to windward against tide, Tska-
hara Bay should not be entered within a line joining its points, as the
two dangerous rocks above mentioned lie in the centre and northern parts of
the bay.

Shirasai Saki, or White Eock Point, derives its name from the large
masses of quartz in its cliffs, and which, with the white pinnacle rock, 200 ft,
high, 4 cables E.S.E. of it, show very distinctly from the South.

Fisherman Rock, a small, narrow rock, 4 ft. above high water, and steep-to
on the outside, lies 4 cables West of Shirasai saki. Some rocks awash ex-
tend a cable's length to the N.E. of it. The passage inside the rock carries
14 fathoms in mid-channel.

Oohiki ura is a bay between Shirasai saki and Yura no uchi, where a vessel
might anchor for the night with the wind off shore, in 6 fathoms, at 2 or 3
cables from the beach. The steep little island Hijiki sima, 120 ft. high, off
its South point, marks the North point of entrance to Yura no uchi, a har-
bour 4 to 7 cables in breadth and 2 miles deep, and being sheltered by the
sharp peaked island Ali sima and the extensive reefs off the South point of
entrance, always above water, and only open to two points, viz., W. by S.
and S.W. by W. Winds from these directions cause some swell inside in a
gale, but it is nevertheless a secure anchorage. Anchor near the head of the
bay in 6 to 7 fathoms, mud.

1206 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

Hino Misaki, being at the turn of the coast, is the most prominent cape
in the Kii Channel. Its terminal hill, Hino yama, is smooth-sloped, 675 feet
high, and the islet off it may be passed at 2 cables. It is steep-to, but the
tide sweeping out of the bay South of it causes an appearance of broken water,
especially with a North wind. Thence the coast runs south-eastward for 19
miles to Tanabe, and parallel to the line of the outer capes, but falls back
within them from 2 to 4 miles. The shore is hilly, with a strip of low land
along the beach ; the interior is mountainous.

The Hidaka kawa, sometimes entered by small junks, has its entrance 5
miles E. by S. from Hino Misaki. A reef of rocks extends a mile oil shore
at a mile to the southward from this. Anchorage will be found abreast the
sandy beach northward of the river.

The coast to the S.E. has several outlying reefs, the largest of which ex-
tends 4 cables off Arari Point. Eastward of Arari Point, 33° 45^' N , is a
bay, affording good anchorage in from 5 to 8 fathoms. Eeefs extend 4 ca-
bles from the cliffs on the northern shore of the bay. North of Arari Point
is a round hill, on the summit of which are three spike-shaped monuments ;
and 3 and 4 miles inland, North and N.E. of this, are two large hill clumps,
which are very conspicuous from the offing.

Tanabe Bay is formed in a bight of the coast, 22 miles S.W. of Hino
misaki, its outer parts exposed only to West and N.W. When approaching
from the south-eastward, Itsive misalci, the most projecting point of the coast,
will first be made, and being very similar to Cape Tanabe, the bay between
them, in thick weather, may be mistaken for that of Tanabe. Itsiye misaki
is a sloping point with a low terminating cliff, but the hills over it are much
higher than those of Cape Tanabe, and rise to a sharp peak, the outer of a
continuous high range. The summit of Cape Tanabe, which has a single con-
spicuous tree on it, is only 539 ft. high, and falls abruptly inland. Outwards
a long ridge slopes gently toward the sea, with a dark clump of trees on the
brow, from which it falls steeply.

The cliffs which border the cape are bold of approach, but Isaki Point,
North of the cape, is very dangerous to three-quarters of a mile off.

In the north-western point of entrance of Tanabe Bay are the Saito and
North Bay Reefs, 4 cables apart, with a deep water channel between them.
These reefs are low and quite flat. At 2 cables distance S.E. and North of
Saito, the southern of them, are sunken rocks, and off North Bay Reef is a
small rock like a boulder. There is also a deep water channel between these
reefs and Maruyama Point, off which shoal water extends 3 or 4 cables.
Within these dangers there is safe approach for a mile, but farther in is a
mass of reefs, rocks, and islets, which must be approached with great cau-
tion. In bad weather, with the wind in, all the known dangers would
break.

The best anchorage is in the south-eastern arm of the bay, South of

KII CHANNEL— EASTERN COAST. 1207

Anchorage Island. Tliis island may be recognised by the dark trees dotted
over it, and a tree islet West of it, from which a long uncovered reef extends.
The end of this reef may be passed at a cable ; then steer to pass the same
distance off the N.E. point of Anchorage Islanrl, between it and the sunken
rocks of Passage Reef in 6 to 10 fathoms, irregular bottom. Having passed
along the East side of the island, stand in S.W. ^ S., anchoring in 10 to 8
fathoms, in a secure and thoroughly sheltered position. There is moderately
deep water in the arm to the South, as also in Hosono Bay, but they are too
contracted for good anchorage.

Binzli Reef, lying in the centre of the bay, is an extensive reef with several
rocks on it, dry and awash at low water. The north-eastern part of Tanabe
Bay (only partially surveyed) has many shoals. On the North shore a small
river discharges itself, running close under the white loop-holed wall sur-
rounding a residence of the Daimio, the imperial Prince of Kiisiu, hidden
among the trees on the left bank at entrance. The village of Tanabe stands
on the shore of the sandy bay to the westward of the river, and to the North
is a mountain range, the highest part of which rises to the height of 2,650 ft.,
the ridge curving round to the range which terminates in Itsiye misaki.

SIWO MISAKI. —The shore from Itsiye misaki to Siwo misaki, a distance
of 21 miles E.S.E., is very bold, and under a high mountainous coast, ter-
minating in a promontory of table land, which is the extreme South point of
Nipon. There is a great tide race and overfalls off Siwo misaki, both on the
flood and ebb ; they are, however, heaviest on the flood. After a south-
easterly gale the sea comes in round this point in immense rollers, such as
are rarely seen on any coast.

Bottle Bock lies 2h cables South of the cape, and foul ground extends 1^
cable further southward.

LIGHT. — On the top of the cape, at an elevation of 163 ft. above the sea,
is exhibited & fixed bright light, visible in clear weather from a distance of 20
miles. The lighthouse, completed in 1878, is 63 ft. high, built of stone, and
painted white. Previous to this there was a wooden tower, now removed.

Passing through the Kii Channel, it is recommended to steer always for
Hino misaki.

The coast to the eastward of Siwo misaki is previously described.

ISUMI STRAIT, between the S.E. point of Awadji and Nipon, is divided
into three channels by the islands Tomangai and Diyi. The West or main
channel is 2 miles wide, but contracted by a sand-bank which extends half a
mile off the large fort of Yura, and by reefs stretching 3 cables off the S.W.
part of Tomangai. The centre passage is only 1 cable wide, and full of
rocks. The eastern channel is a quarter of a mile wide, and said to be
clear and safe between the reefs which extend 1^ cable off both shore and
island.

LIGHT. — On the western extreme of Tomangai sima, at an elevation of

1208 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

208 ft, above the sea, is exhibited affixed Iright light, visible in clear weather
a distance of 19 miles. It is obscured to the eastward between S. J E. and
N.E. by E. The tower, 21 ft. high, of granite, is in lat. 34° 16' 40" N., long.
135° 0' 30" E.

The ISTJMI NAD A at the N.E. extreme of the inland sea, and 35 miles
in extent N.E. and S.W., is bounded on the South by a promontory of
Nipon, and on the West by the large mountainous island of Awadji. Its
shores are in general high and thickly wooded ; in some places, however,
they are low and sandy. It is singular in having neither an island nor a
danger. On the East shore of Awadji the water is deep, with no convenient
anchorages except in small bays close in. The coast of Nipon, on the con-
trary, affords good anchorage along its whole extent, reefs only extending
off it 1 or 2 cables.

OSAKA, the place of greatest commercial importance in Japan, stands on
the N.E. shore of the sea, on the left bank of the Yodo Gawa, which at
the N.W. corner of the city divides into two branches — the Aji Kawa,
as the Yodo is here called, continuing directly towards the sea ; the other
branch, the Kishun Gawa, takes a southerly course, and discharges its
waters 3 miles lower down the gulf ; these two branches are navigable by
junks of moderate size. Osaka is the seaport of Kioto, the capital of Japan,
which is situate 20 miles to the N.E., on a branch of the Sedo Gawa.

The Foreign concession, named Ebisu Jima or Kawa Guchi, occupies the
angle formed by the Aji and Kishu branches ; its position is indicated by
lofty trees ; the right of building is confined to this site, but the right of
residence extends over the contiguous suburb westward. It is 2f miles above
Temposan, the fort at the river's mouth, and 2 miles below the castle. The
population of Osaka is about 400,000.

The River Aji is shallow, but may be navigated by ships' boats as far
as the castle ; it has a bar, which at unusually low tides would be nearly
dry ; at exceptionally high tides, 7 ft. might be carried over.

The roadstead of Osaka is open to the West and South. The depths in
the roadstead are extremely regular, diminishing gradually over a soft mud
bottom ; the holding ground is so good that it is considered a vessel could
ride out any gale in safety. The shores are everywhere of clean sand (as
are the river bars), but it constitutes a fringe only, mud being found at a
cable from the low-water line.

Anchorage. — It is not advisable to anchor in less than 4 fathoms, as S.W.
winds cause much sea. There are 4 fathoms at 7 cables from the lighthouse,
and 7 fathoms at 1^ mile. To the southward it is much shoaler. The best
anchorage is West of the Temposan or Osaka lighthouse.

Temposan Fort and Light. — The large Temposan Fort stands on the
South point, and commands the entrance of the river ; it is a high turfed
earthwork, scarped with masonry, and is a conspicuous landmark, the shores

HIOGO AND KOBE. 1209

being very low. On the parapet of the western salient angle of Temposan
Fort, 53 ft. above the sea, is exhibited a fixed hright light, shown seaward
between the bearing of N.E. by E. f E. (round by North and West) to
S.W. by W., and is visible in clear weather from a distance of 12 miles.
The tower is a square-shaped white wooden building. 30 ft. high.

The Kishu Gawa. — Two miles S.S.E. of Osaka Bar is the bar of the Kishu,
at the North point of entrance of which river a small star fort is being con-
structed at low-water mark a mile from the shore. This bar has not been
closely examined, but it is probably a little deeper than that of the Aji, as
a larger class of junks ascend this branch to Osaka.

Sakai.— Light. — S, by E. 4 miles from Temposan is the mouth of the
Sakai Eiver, which enters the sea between two short moles extending from
two green batteries ; it has no bar, and has 2 ft. at entrance. A light is ex-
hibited from a wooden turret on the North fort.

HIOGO and KOBE. — A treaty port, 14 miles West of Osaka, is a better
and more convenient anchorage than the roadstead of Osaka, having slight
protection from the South, and being thoroughly sheltered from the westerly
or prevailing winds. The shores of Hiogo Bay are steep-to, but low, and
rise in a gentle slope from the beach to the abrupt range of hills 2 miles
inland, which are of 800 to 2,000 ft. elevation, running parallel to the coast.
The bay has an even depth of 4J fathoms, with good holding ground in a
very stiff mud. A patent slip is established at Hiogo to receive a vessel 190
feet long, with 13 feet draught forward. A sea-wall and piers, which will
also form quays, are also proposed.

The Foreign Settlement is beautifully situated at the head of the northern
bay of Kobe. This bay is somewhat smaller than that of Hiogo, but the
shores of it are steep, and there is about the same depth of water as in the
former, and if less sheltered in S.W. winds it is less exposed to easterly
winds.

The railway pier at Kobe was completed in 1876, so that vessels can mror
alongside and load from the railway trucks. Moorings are laid down. There
is also the old accommodation, which entirely shelters junks of considerable
size.

British subjects are free to go wherever they please within 10 n (21 miles)

• A RAILWAY, 21^ miles long, was opened in May, 1874, between Kobe and Osaka (Agi
Kawa). From Osaka it is continued in a N.E. direction for nearly 30 miles to Kioto, at
the South end of Lake Biwa. It is proposed to extend this railway, so that all the chief
parts of Nipon shall be in communication, including Tsuruga and Niegata, on tho West
coast, and Nagoya, at the head of Owari Bay, and Yokohama on the South coast. Mr. R.
Vicars Boyle, C.S.I., has surveyed most of the routes for the intended railways.

A dock was commenced in 1876 at the Osaka station for the accommodation of water-
borne traffic, which, when completed, will enable goods to be transported by boat direct to
and from that station in place of Ajikawa as heretofore,

I. A. 7 P

1210 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

of Hiogo in any direction, that of Miako (Kioto) excepted, which city shall
not be approached nearer than 10 ri. The crews of vessels resorting to
Hiogo shall not cross the River Ena Gawa, which flows into the bay between
Hiogo and Osaka. During the autumn and winter months small-pox is
very prevalent here. The railway borders the bay to the eastward of Kobe.

LIGHTS. — At Kobe a fixed green light is shown from a white staff, 34 feet
high, on the eastern pier-head of the Foreign Concession. The light is
elevated 42 ft., and visible 6 miles off.

0)1 Wada Misahi, the S.W. point of Hiogo Bay, elevated 52 ft. above the
sea, is exhibited a fixed red light, showing seaward between the bearings of
N.N.W. (round by East and South) to W. by 8. J S., visible in clear
weather from a distance of 12 miles. The tower is an octagonal-shaped
white wooden building, 46 ft. in height.

It must be borne in mind that the ebb tide sets to the westward towards
Akashi Strait, and the flood to the eastward towards Osaka, 2 knots an hour
at springs, increasing as Akashi Strait is approached. In the bay directly
East of Kobe, there is a sandbank of less than 2 fathoms, extending half a
mile off shore.

Supplies of all descriptions may be procured in abundance at tolerably
cheap rates. Government coal is stored here in charge of a contractor, who
also supplies fresh meat, vegetables, and water. Large timber, chiefly cedar
(Sungi) is also procurable.

Tides. — It is high water, fuU and change, at Hiogo at V" 15"". Springs
rise 5 ft. 8 in. ; neaps 4 ft. 3 in. ; neaps range 2 ft. 6 in. The range of any
day seldom exceeds 5 ft. at springs or 1 ft. 6 in. at neaps.

Taka iso, a rock with 9 ft. on it at low water, lies nearly a cable off shore,
5 J cables to the westward of the village of Shiwoya.

Hira iso are the highest pinnacles of a bank of rock and shingle, 4 cables
from the shore, having 6 ft. on them at low water. The eastern lies E. J N.
3 J miles from Matsu-wo-ga hana (the North point of Awadjii sima).
South from it, and quite close to, is the wreck of a Satsuma steamer,
having 2 ft. on it at low water. To clear them the light on Matsu-wo-ga
hana must be kept West, until Ichi-no-tani yama bears N.E. The stone
fort at Maiko in sight, N.W. J "W., clear of the trees on Kara saki, leads to
the westward of Hira iso.

AKASHI NO SETO (Akashi Strait), between the North point of Awadji
sima and the coast of Nipon, is nearly 2^ miles wide, the above rocks, Taka
iso and Hira iso, being the only known dangers when approaching it.

Akashi town, on the North shore of the strait, contains the residence of
the Daimio, the four white towers of which show out plainly against the
surrounding dark foliage.

In the bay of Yamata ura, between the dark wooded point of Kara saki
and the conspicuous granite fort at Maiko to the eastward, and the town of

INLAND SEA— HAEIMA NADA. 1211

Akashi to the westward, there ia good anchorage, with winds from N.W.
round by North to East, in 9 fathoms, sand, good holding ground.

Yamata iso, a rock in the strait having 2 ft. on it at low water, lies N.W.
by W. I W. 3i cables from Maiko Fort. Care should be taken not to anchor
within 5 cables of the fort. The tides take the line of the coast, and have at
springs a velocity of 2f knots.

From the West end of the town of Ahashi a series of shoals extends to the
W.S.W. for 11 miles, the outermost composed of rock covered with sand and
shingle, being named Shiha no se. The South sides of these shoals being
steep-to are very dangerous. The South side of the Shika no se is marked
by a red huoy.

Murozu no se, on the southern side of the West entrance to Akashi no seto,
has been thoroughly examined by H.M.Ss. Serpent and Sylvia, and nothing
less than 5f fathoms has been found.

Directions. — On approaching Akashi Strait from the westward a clear
course may be made between the above shoal and Shika no se, by keeping
the summit of Ichi-no-tani yama in line with the lighthouse on the North
extreme of Awadji sima E. by N. ^ N. or at night by keeping the light on
that bearing.

Matsu-wo-ga Hana and Light.— The North point of Awadji sima is termi-
nated by a white stone fort, with seven guns " en barbette," is steep-to, and
has a lighthouse erected on it, from which is shown, at an elevation of 158
feet above the sea, o. fixed light of the first order, from East round by North
and West to S.W. by W. i W., visible 18 miles oflF. The tower is 15 feet
high, built of stone.

HARIMA NADA is a comparatively shoal expanse, lying between Awadji
sima and Sozu sima, having about 20 fathoms deepest water, the southern
portion of the sea being clear of dangers. The northern portion, however,
is said to be encumbered with shoals and dangerous covered rocks, extend-
ing from Ukado Point, the S.E. point of Sozu sima to Shika no se, before
described. In navigating the Harima nada the dotted track should be as
closely as possible adhered to, as the northern portion of this sea has not
been closely examined. Its southern shore from the Naruto passage west-
ward for about 17 miles, as far as Taka sima, is also as yet unsurveyed.
Ichi-no-tani yama (end hill) just seen open of the lighthouse on Awadji
eima leads between the Shika no se and Murozo-no se, for the South point of
Sozu sim.

Sozu Sima, a large island in the western part of the Harima nada, is
2,560 ft. high. On its South side the high promontory of Yosino, terminat-
ing in a bluff 980 ft. high, stretches to the southward, forming a conspicuous
landmark throughout the Harima nada, and the narrow sea to the westward.
There are large bays on either side of it, but they are considered not to
afford good anchorage.

1212 THE ;rAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Hana Mura, on the Kiusiu shore, S.S.W. 5 miles from Yosino Bluff, is
said to be the best anchorage in the neighbourhood, and a fine harbour. A
bank, carrying 19 ft. water, lies in the middle of the entrance.

Westward of Sozu Sima the Seto Uchi is studded with numbers of islands,
for miles forming numerous channels, of which the most central and
southern only have been examined ; these, however, are sufficiently clear of
dangers to be with ordinary caution quite safe of navigation, the surveys of
these narrows having rendered the navigation of the Seto Uehi compara-
tively easy.

Galatea Shoal, on which H.M.S. Galatea, Capt. H.E.H. the Buke of
Edinburgh, grounded in 1869, has from 1 to 3 fathoms on it. Its eastern
extreme lies IJ mile W. | S. the South point of Kasiwa, and its eastern ex-
treme approaches Odutsi within 1 1 cables.

Nabae Sima Light. — On the summit of Nabae Sima, it lat. 34° 23' N., long.
133° 49' E., at an elevation of 85 ft. above the sea, is exhibited o. fixed bright
light, of the third order, seen between N. ^ E. round by South to W. ^ N. ;
visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. It is very useful in
assisting vessels to avoid the 3-fathom shoal to the southward.

Siijaho lies West from Nabae Sima, with a deep channel between. A
rocky ledge extends l^ cable off its South point. Ushi Sima lies to the south-
ward of Siyako, between which is a deep channel, 5 cables wide. RoclcSf
which dry towards low water, extend 1 cable off the North point of Usi Sima.
They are steep-to.

The Conqueror Barik, steep-to, from the S.W. point of Usi Sima extends 2^
miles in a W.S.W. direction.

Anchorage. — Hiro Sima lies to the W.S.W. of Siyako. On its South shore
is Ino Ura, a small bay, on the shores of which are several small villages.
Ino Ura is a convenient anchorage for vessels passing through the Seto
Uchi, and is generally chosen as a night anchorage, especially when bound
from Hiogo to the westward, it being within convenient distance, and can be
arrived at before nightfall. Care must be taken not to approach the shore
too closely, as the head of the bay shoals very suddenly.

Ten-feet Hock, or Habushi Iwa, lies Sg cables S. by E. ^ E. from the South
point of Ino Ura ; it is 20 ft. high and whitened, and may be passed quite
safely on either side at 1 cable distance. i

Takami, a very conspicuous island on the South side of the route, is nearly
1^ mile long. A shoal bank extends from the eastern side of Takami in an
E.N.E. direction, and nearly joins the S.W. extreme of the Conqueror Bank.
Sanagi Sima lies 3 miles W.S.W. from Hiro Sima. From its eastern shore
extending 3 miles in an easterly direction, is an extensive bank of sand, with
from half to 2 fathoms upon it.

Nezitmi Sima lies If mile to the southward of Sanagi Sima, between

INLAND SEA— BINGO NADA. 1213

"which is the channel recommended. Rocks pi'oject on its northern side to
nearly 3 cables. The channel South of Conqueror Bank is now seldom used.

Anchorage. — Awa Sima, on the South side of the western entrance to the
channel, joining the Bingo and Harima Nadas, is triangular in shape, having
bays on its North, South, and West sides. Anchorage may be had in either
of the above bays, that to the South having the deeper water ; but in using
it Aiva Hock must be avoided. It lies S.W. by S. 3J cables from the S.E.
point of Awa Sima. The northern bay is more convenient for vessels anchor-
ing for the night. Care must be taken not to anchor too near the head of
the bay as it shoals a long way out. The bay on the West side of the island
is shoal.

The BINGO NADA from the channels just described across to the chan-
nels leading into the Misima nada is about 80 miles wide, and about 38 miles
long in a N.N.E. direction. It is comparatively clear, having only a chain
of six islands stretching across it in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and a few
others lying near the Kurusima Strait.

Directions. — On passing Nezumi sima, steer to pass in mid-channel between
Mutsu sima and Akeno misaki, from whence, if wishing to take the northern
route through the channels between the Bingo nada and the Misima nada,
a course W. by N. will lead up to mid-channel between the islands of Hyaku
Kuan and Yoke, at the entrance to the Mekari seto.

If intending to take the southern route through the Kurusima Strait, a
course W.S.W. from Mutsu sima will lead up to Takaikami, the loftiest of
the islands lying in the Bingo nada, and, passing in mid-channel between it
and Oki sima, continue the same course passing about one mile North of
Kadji, the northern island of the next group, and when the islands of the
South point of sima are seen, haul up and steer to pass them at about a
mile, for the Kurusima Strait.

KURUSIMA NO SETO (Kurusima Strait.— The northern shore of the
province of lyo forming the southern coast of the approach to Kurusima no
seto, may be known by two curiously shaped hills, one with a double sum-
mit ; on one of which is a clump of trees 1,202 feet above high water ; the
other hill has a lower clump, 363 feet above high water, close to the shore,
2j miles South of Imabari, the coast being a series of sandy beaches between
Imabari and the spurs from the double hill just mentioned. The large
town of Imabari is also very conspicuous on this shore, and the islets off the
South point of sima on the northern shore of the strait are also easily
recognized.

Hocks that cover at high water, and stretch 1^ cables from the shore, lie off
this coast N.N.W. J W. IJ miles from the pier at Imabari.

Tori ishi, a rock with a temple gate, 13 feet above high water, lies nearly
four miles south-eastward from Imabari Pier, 1|- cable from the shore.

1214 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

Ohama is a large village 2J miles to the N.W. of Imabari, having a bluff
point at the North extreme, and a conspicuous temple gate near the centre.

Shiroi iiva, 13 ft., is a white topped rock, lying 2 J cables N. by E. ^ E.
from the rocky point just northward of the village of Obama. and may be
approached to half a cable on the East side.

Amaze, a rock that dries at low water, lies N. by W. ^ W., 3^ cables from
Shiroi iwa ; and Hirose, a patch of rocks that dry, lies S. by E. ^ E. 2J cables
from the same place.

sima, a large island on the North side of Kurusima no seto, bears evi-
dence of volcanic origin in the remarkable features of its innumei^ble peaks,
deep valleys, and off-lying pinnacle rocks,

Ancliorages. — There is a good anchorage off Hangatain 7 fathoms, with the
left extreme of the village bearing W. by S. f S. distant 2J cables. There
is no really safe anchorage off Obama, the tides being especially strong
there. Anchorage, though in a strong tideway, may be had with off-shore
winds in from 11 to 13 fathoms, sand, good holding ground, with the
pier of Imabari bearing S.S.W. 2^ cables.

From Hashi hama the coast trends to the N.W. to Ozumi no hana, and
about midway between is the village of Hangata, near the North end of
which is a temple gate, the tide pole datum.

Maru iso lies S.E. ^ S. half a mile from Ozumi no hana and 1^ cables from
the shore, and uncovers 5 ft. at low water.

Birose is a ledge of rocks covered at high water, lying off Hangata. Both
this and Maru iso are occasionally marked by tree beacons.

Directions. — The channel from the eastward, formerly used between Nezumi
sima and Uma sima, is the best ; that now frequently taken, known as the
Kuru sima or Junk Channel is not recommended. After rounding Uma sima
care should be taken to clear the Perseus Rock by keeping in mid-channel,
with the eastern point of the entrance to Hashi hama Harbour open of
Nezumi sima, until a remarkable single tree in the first gap right of the
highest sharp hill of sima, is in line with the North extreme of Mushi
sima S.E. by E. ^ E. The northerly stream sets on to the S.E. point of
Nezumi sima, and also towards the Perseus Pock.

Approachi7i(/ from the westward, after passing Kadjitori saki, a course should
be steered to pass a quarter of a mile North of the flat rock of Ozumi no
hana, when the conspicuous tree in the first gap right of Kiro yama will be
seen in line with the North extreme of Mushi sima, S.E. by E. ^ E. This
mark should be kept on until the "West extreme of the N.E. point of Hashi
hama is open East of Nezumi sima S. W. i W. ; this clears the Perseus Pock
(Ko no se). A course may then be steered to pass West of Uma sima, bor-
rowing rather nearer to that island than the mainland, to avoid the Amaze.
Uma sima may be rounded at 2 cables, or continuing the leading mark a

INLAND SEA. 1215

little farther on a course may be steered to pass between TJma and Nagato
sima, keeping the latter island close on board.

The other channels should not be attempted.

Tides. — In the Kurusima no seto, from Ozumi no hana, the flood runs to-
wards Nezumi sima and Tsu sima, sweeping over the Perseus Eock (Ko no
se) towards the North point of Uma sima, then taking the direction of the
channels, diverging into the Hi-uchi nada. The ebb converges from the
last-named place to the channels, running with great velocity from Imabari
to the North, so that a vessel leaving that place should guard against being
swept on to the More no iso. From the South point of Uma sima it runs
for the S.W. point of Nezumi sima, and diverges through the channels. The
ebb sweeps directly through the channel between Uma and Negate sima,
causing on the North side heavy whirls that must be guarded against, their
tendency being to turn the vessel's head towards Ko no se. The velocity at
springs is from 4 to 6 knots.

It is high water, full and change, at Hangata, at 10'' 36'° ; springs range
\\h, neaps 5 ft., after superior transit of moon, and at Q"* 52™. springs range
9, neaps 3^ ft., after inferior transit.

The Northern Route through the Mekari seto and Aogi seto is but little
greater distance than through Kurusima Strait, if when oflP Mutsu sima
a course be at once steered for its entrance through the Mekari seto ; and it
has the advantage of the Kurusima Strait from the fact that the tides are
of much less velocity here than in the latter.

Passing westward of Hyaku kuan at about 7 cables, a course N.W. by W.
\ W., with the bluff fall of Hachi gaune yama (which will be seen ahead
1,405 ft. high), in line with the right extreme of Hoso sima, will lead into
the Mekari seto clear of Jarrad Bank, which lies to the northward off the
S.E. point of Mukai sima. On passing Hoso sima at about 2 cables distance
borrow on the northern shore, which is steep-to, until abreast Ko saki sima,
when keep in mid-channel between Saki sima and the coast of Nipon until
within half a mile of Ko-ne sima, when the Aogi seto will open, then haul
up S.W. by W. I W. and bring the distant high peak Higashi on Osaki
sima in line with the extreme point of 0-mi sima ; this mark will lead in
mid-channel between Admiral and Captain Banks. On nearing the dark
wooded island Kuno sima a rocky islet will be seen off 0-mi sima, which
may be passed at 1 J cable. Keep in mid-channel between Matsu sima and
0-mi sima, rounding Kodono sima at half a mile, when steer to pass in mid-
channel between Yoko sima, Niwatori jima, and the shore of Osaki until
abreast Noka no hana the S.E. point of Osaki, when haul up and pass iu
mid-channel between Oge and Ko Oge sima into the Misima nada.

The entrance to Aogi seto from the westward may be readily distinguished
by the conical hill and white quartz-faced boulders of Ko-oge sima and tha

1216 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

dark wooded Oge sima, care being' taken not to mistake the S.W. point of
Okamura, that has also some white rocks at the base.

Mitarai sima, a high wooded island to the westward of the entrance to the
Aogi seto, has a flat-topped summit 1,443 ft. above high water, sloping gra-
dually to its West end, when it falls abruptly, has a slightly indented coast
line, and an apparently bare double peak at its eastern end, sloping down to
a considerable village, with a remarkable white wall at the eastern ex-
treme. South of the village is a Japanese lighthouse, merely a lantern, and
rarely lit.

Tides. — The tides in the Aogi seto appear to take the line of the channel,
running with a velocity of 2^ knots round Noko no hana, 3 to 4 knots in the
channel between Kuno sima and 0-mi sima, and with an average velocity of
3 knots to the narrows between Mukai sima and In-no sima (Mekari no
seto), where they increase their rate to 3i knots. The flood runs to the
eastward and the ebb to the westward.

It is high water, full and change, at Miwara, at 10^ 37". Springs range
11 ft., neaps 9 ft. The stream changes to flood at low water, and to ebb
three-quarters of an hour after high water.

Directions for Kuruma no Seto.— The directions for Aogi seto should be
followed until clearing the channel between Kuno and 0-mi sima, when the
latter should be rounded at three-quarters of a mile, and a S.E. course steered
to pass a quarter of a mile East of Hiotan jima, and the same distance
West of the S.W. point of Seto-da jima, bearing in mind that the ebb sweeps
strongly towards the beacon on the West side of the channel.

The Seto-da jima shore should be kept about a quarter of a mile off until
the islet off the East point of Hakata sima opens of the N.E. point S.E. \ E.,
when a course should be steered to pass the latter point at a quarter of a
mile, and then for mid-channel between the islets off the East point and
Mu sima, taking care to keep the S.W. jDoint of Seto-da jima open of the
N.E. point of Hakata sima N.W. i W., to avoid the foul ground in the bay
between the East and N.E. points.

In the Kuruma no seto the flood runs to the S.E. and the ebb to N.W.,
with a velocity of 21 to 3 knots, in the direction of the channel, except off the
S.W. paint of Seto-da jima, where the ebb sweeps partly across the channel
towards the stone beacon on the West side.

MISIMA NADA.— This portion of the Seto uchi is 30 miles East and
West, about the same distance North and South, and is studded with nume-
rous groups of islands, islets, and rocks, of which as yet little is known.
At its North extreme is the large town of Hire sima, on the shore of Nipon.
Its southern boundary is an extensive chain of islands stretching across
the Seto uchi in an East and West direction, of which Yayo sima, Numa
sima, Nnku sima, Mosuki, Nokona, and Kosii sima are the largest. The

lYO NAD A. 1217

route reccmmended lies through the south-eastern part of the Misima Nada,
within 2 to 3 miles from the mainland of Sikok.

Tsuri Sima and Lighthouse marks the eastern side of the channel which
joins the Misima Nada with the lyo Nada. Tsuri Sima is highest at its
southern end, where the elevation is 150 feet, gradually decreasing to the
North and West. The island is wooded. The lighthouse, 21 feet high, is
built of granite, and stands 400 yards inshore of the N.W. point of the is-
land. The fixed bright ligJit, elevated 186 feet and visible 20 miles off, is
obscured to South and East between S. f W. and E.N.E.

Anchorage. — Cape Simonamba, 13| miles north-eastward of Tsuri Sima, is
a bluff point of about 250 ft. in height, from which the land rises to the
eastward or inland in irregular slopes to three conspicuously sharped peaks
of about 1,000 feet. The bay South of Simonamba Point affords good an-
chorage in 6 to 9 fathoms with the North point of Kosii bearing W. by S. J
S., but one mile South of this position is a a sandbank, on which there is
only 9 ft. water. A sandbank on which there are 14 ft. water, lies in the
same bay, about midway between Ka sima and Kosii sima, with the western-
most of the two largest elevated rocks which are seen West of Ka sima in
line with Cape Simonamba.

Directions. — After rounding Ozumi no hana, Itsuki sima, a comparatively
low island with bare ridges of a reddish colour should be steered for W. by
S. i S., until Kajitori saki bears about S.W. by S., when alter course to
S.W. \ S. for the S.E. point of Nokona, and passing it at about half a mile
keep in mid-channel between Mosuki and Kosii sima. Cape Simonamba
should not be approached nearer than one mile.

lYO NADA. — This portion of the Seto uchi lies westward of Tsuri
Sima, between which and Hime sima its western boundary is about 55
miles. The whole of its shores are as yet unsurved, but that to the
South appears clear, with no off-lying islands or indications of danger ;
its northern shore, however, is skirted by groups of islands and rocks.
Great caution should always be observed when approaching any of the coast
which has been inserted in the charts from the Japanese manuscript only,
as the sunken dangers are not often shown on that document. At the S.W.
of the sea is a deep bight on the North shore of the island of Kiusiu, which
from this, westward, forms the southern shore of the Seto uchi. In this
bight are several deep indentations, which are probably good anchorages ;
several large rivers also flow into this part of the lyo nada. About 20 miles
to the eastward is the northern entrance to the Boungo Channel described
on page 1202.

Anchorage can be obtained at Oemura, about E. by S. of the South point
of Kosii. There is a large town (Sinhama) in this bay with forts on the
shore, and a Japanese man-of-war was seen lying at anchor with a large

I. A. 7 Q

1218 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

nun>ber of junks ; the bay is open to the westward. In passing through
between Kosii sima and the main, where not less than 9 fathoms were ob-
tained, there appeared to be good anchorage in the southern bay on the East
side of Kosii ; junks were lying there. The shore of the mainland opposite
Kosii is skirted with rocks and islets.

Tides. — The tides, both flood and ebb, set across the bay, but their rate
does not exceed 1 to 1 1 knots. It is high water, full and change, at about
9'', and springs rise 8 or 9 feet.

directions.-— 'From. Nokono a course may be shaped to pass on either side
of Yuri, the South side being preferable, from which a course S.W. by W. |
W. will lead up to pass about one mile South of Ko Minasi sima, after which
alter to W. by S. i S. to pass about 1^ mile southward of Ya sima. When
Ta sima bears North haul up W. by N. i N. This course leads about If
mile northward of Hime sima, but according to the tide vessels are either
set to the southward towards the Boungo Channel, or to the north-westward
towards Iwami sima. Continuing this course from Hime sima will lead
through the Suwo nada up to the entrance to Simonoseki Strait.

The SUWO NADA, the western division of the Seto Uchi, is the most open
but of no great depth, the soundings varying from 15 to 20 fathoms in the
centre. It is bounded on the North by the provinces of Suwo and Nagaton
in Nipon, and on the South by the province of Buzen in Kiusiu, and on the
East by Hime sima, and is about 40 miles in length (East and West). At
its western extreme is the strait of Simonoseki, the western approach to the
inland sea.

Directions. — Vessels bound from the Boungo Channel or from the eastward
for Simonoseki Strait, may steer to pass Moto yama at the distance of 3 or 4
miles. Thence a course should be shaped, N.W. f W. for I saki, which ia
high and bold, as well as steep-to, and may be rounded at the distance of 2
or 3 cables. At night keep I saki white light in Sight N.W. ^ N.

I SAKI and LIGHT. — Isaki is the eastern promontory of the North point
Kiusiu, and South point of East entrance of the strait of Simonoseki ; it may
be passed at 2 cables.

On its N.E. extreme, elevated 122 ft., and visible 17 miles ofi", is exhibited
a Jlxed light, showing red to the northward and eastward between W. by N.
and S.E. f E., and bright to the southward of the latter direction as far as
S. i W. The junction of the red and white lights bearing N.W. f W. clears
the shoals off Moto yama. The tower is of granite 31 ft. high.

SIMONOSEKI STRAIT, surveyed during the years 1872 to 1875 by Cap-
tain St. John in H.M.S. Sylvia, is 7 miles in length, and has a navigable
channel varying from 3 to 7 cables in breadth. Both entrances are encum-
bered with sandbanks, particularly the western, between which and the off-
lying islands extensive reefs project in every direction. The eastern entrance
to the strait lies between I saki and Kusi saki, between which it is 2J miles

SIMONOSEKI STEAIT. 1219

wide, but is divided into three channels by two extensive sandbanks named
the Middle Ground and Tano Bank.

Kusi Saki, the North point of entrance of the strait, has reefs extending
2 cables off it. There is a large military station here, named Choshin, or
or Hagi Chiofu.

Eanziu and Manziu are two islands E. by N. of Chofu Point. They are
both covered with trees, and should not be passed within 2 cables. Kanziu
is low and flat, with some large rocks and a rock awash off its South end ;
but Manziu is 190 ft. high.

Middle Ground, midway between Kusi saki and I saki, is a shoal bank of
sand extending 1^ mile in an East and West direction, being from one-half
to 3 cables in width, and has depths varying from 1 to 3 fathoms on it. The
eastern extreme is 1^ mile N.N.E. from I saki Lighthouse.

A black huoy surmounted by a cage lies in 3 fathoms at the East extremity
of the Middle Ground. From it the middle of Manzui bears N. by E. ;
Mozi Point, W. by N. f N. ; and Isaki Lighthouse, S. f W. There is a
shoal spot, with only 6 ft. water on it, immediately North of the buoy. A
red buoy with staff and ball is moored in 3 fathoms, 8^ cables West of the
black buoy, with Kusi saki bearing N.N.W. ^ W., 4| cables from the
western extreme of the Middle Ground.

This bank divides the strait into two channels, that to the northward
(North Channel) carrying the deepest water.

Tano Bank, western extreme, on which is 4 fathoms, lies 4 cables E. ^ N.
from Mozi saki, from which position it extends in an easterly direction for
nearly 1^ mile with depths varying from 2f to 4 fathoms on it.

This bank divides the portion of the strait lying southward of the Middle
Ground into two channels. Neither of them is to be preferred to the North
channel (North of the Middle Ground), but of the two the channel North of
the Tano Bank (Middle Channel) is the best.

A large clump of firs on Take saki (the South point of Simonoseki town),
in line with Mozi saki, W. by S. I S., leads between Kanabuse and Tano
Bank.

Anchorage in 5 fathoms may be found on the outer part of the Tano Bank
(which shoals suddenly from 7 to 4 fathoms) well clear of the tide race
through the strait. "

Kanabuse or Fisherman Rock lies 1 1 cables N.E. by E. J E. from Mozi
saki. It is 120 yards long (N. by W. and S. by E.), has only 4 feet on its
southern end, 12 feet on its northern end, and 5 fathoms between at low-
water springs ; the South end has the appearance of two large square blocks
of stone 10 yards apart. There are 6 fathoms close to its South, East, and
West sides, and 10 fathoms (sandy bottom) about a boat's length northward
of the 12 feet patch. A buoy, colored black and white in horizontal stripes and

1220 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

carrying a staff and ball, is moored in 9 fathoms, half a cable South of the
southern rock, with Mozi saki bearing S.W., and I saki E.S.E.

CHANNELS.— The North Channel, northward of the Middle Ground, is,
with the exception of the Kanabuse, clear of danger. The Middle Channel,
South of the Middle Ground, and North of the Tano Bank, carries 4^
fathoms at low water springs. Hino yama kept W. ^ N. until the clump of
trees on Take saki comes in line with Mozi saki leads through. The South
Channel, southward of the Tano B.nk, is the narrowest, although the tides
here are not so strong as in the North and Middle Channels. It carries a
depth of not less than 5^ fathoms at low water.

Mozi Saki. — The strait is narrowed to 3 cables between this point (which
is the extreme of a promontory at the North end of Kiusiu), and the eastern
end of the town of Simonoseki. Hino yama, a peak with three summits, the
highest of which is 933 ft. above the sea, is conspicuous on the mainland of
Nipon, opposite Mosi saki. Between Mosi Saki and the opposite shore
the tide runs with great velocity, but with some interval of slack water
between the change of stream.

Whitshed Bay, on the South side of Mozi saki, affords good anchorage in
from 5 to 7 fathoms, with Mozi saki and Observation Point in line, or a little
open, bearing North ; and Mozi village bearing East. Here the heavy ships
of the allied fleet anchored after the reduction of the batteries in September^
1864. An extensive shoal bank, with from 3 to 4 fathoms water on it, fills
up the whole of the southern part of Whitshed Bay.

SIMONOSEKI is an important town from its position at the entrance of
the Inland Sea. It is formed of a single principal street running for nearly
2 miles, at the base of some low steep hills, along the shore of Nipon. Its
most conspicuous building is the custom-house, recognised by its tall whit©
gables. A small light is exhibited on the shore at the end of a stone balus-
trade at the eastern quarter of the town.

Supplies of provisions and coal were obtained by the squadron with diflS-
culty, as it was not a treaty port. The coal, which is much used here in the
forging of nails, was of the worst possible description, and gave 75 per cent,
of ash and earthy matter. Water of excellent quality was brought off in
buckets in large boats.

If intending to anchor off the town of Simonoseki, take a position well
below the custom-house in from 6 to 10 fathoms, out of the tides, which are
very rapid.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Simonoseki, at S*" 30"" ; springs
rise 8 It., neaps 3 ft. The western stream makes at 2^ hours before high
water, and the eastern stream 2| hours after high water, so that the western
stream continues 5 hours and the eastern 7 hours. Off Mozi saki the velocity
at springs is from 7 to 8 knots, at neaps 3 to 4 knots ; the current is at its

SIMONOSEKI STEAIT. 1221

full strength for 3 hours of each tide. There are heavy overfalls in the
eastern part of the strait at springs.

HIKU SIMA, lying at the western entrance of Simonoseki Strait, is 3
miles in extent North and South. Its S. W. point, Entrance Head, is a wooded
bluff, 380 ft. high, to the North of which is a small harbour called Fukuura,
where junks anchor in from 9 to 10 ft. at low water. K fixed Iright light
is shown about two-thirds up the hill, on the North point of entrance to
Fuku ura.

Yodsibi Rock lies E.N.E. 5^ cables from Kibune Point, the S.E. extreme of
Hiku sima, and is best avoided by hugging the Hiku sima shore. It uncoveurs
4 ft. at low water springs, and is marked by a red conical stone beacon, 20 ft.
in height and 8 ft. in diameter at the base, with a plain rounded top. The
rock may be passed on either side, but the western channel is preferable,
being twice the width of the other.

Narusi Rock is a quarter of a mile off Kibune Point, and 1|^ cable offshore.
It uncovers before half ebb, and is very dangerous. A white conical beacon^
8 ft. in diameter at the base, 20 ft. in height, and surmounted by a pear-
shaped top, has been erected on this rock. To pass outside it, keep Hino
yama, the wooded bluff hill over Simonoseki, open of Kibune Point.

Manaita Rocks, lying nearly 2 cables South of Entrance Head, uncover
towards low water. A conical beacon, coloured black and white in rings, 8 ft.
in diameter at the base, and 20 ft. in height, surmounted by a ball 3 ft. in
diameter, has been erected ou the largest of these rocks.

KOKURA town and fortress stands on the shore of Kiusiu, South of Hiku
sima, at the mouth of a small stream named the Ogawa.

Kokura Ledge is a flat of sand and rock, with shoal patches on it, fronting
the low shore of Kiusiu South of Hiku sima. The flat extends from 1 to 2
miles off shore, gradually deepening to 3 fathoms at its outer edge, which is
steep-to.

Hiku Flat, lying W.N.W. 1 mile off Entrance Head, is a bank of sand-
stone rock, 8 cables long and 3 broad, with 13 ft. water on it.

The West extreme of Hiku sima (Cape Sizikuts), in line with the East ex-
treme of Kanasaki sima, N.N.W. J W. westerly, leads between Hiku Flat
and a small 3-fathom bank, 4 cables N.E. of it (Hamo Bank).

DIRECTIONS.— Approaching the strait with I saki light N.W. | W., or
at night keeping the white light in sight, as before mentioned, pass I saki at
half a mile, and when the lighthouse bears S.S.W. ^ W., haul to the north-
ward to clear the eastern end of the Middle Ground, taking care not to bring
I saki lighthouse southward of that bearing until Hino yama bears W. J S.,
southerly, when steer for it until I saki lighthouse bears S.E. by E. ^ E.,
when a small islet will be seen just open North of Kusi saki, bearing
N. by E. i E. Alter course to S. by W. J W. with the above mark on

1222 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGa

which will lead between the western extreme of the Middle Ground and
Kanabuse Buoy) until the clump of firs on the point South of Take saki is
in line with Mozi saki W. by S. f S. ; keeping this mark on steer for them,
rounding Mozi saki at IJ cable (mid-channel), on passing which haul to the
southward, keeping the northern shore on board until Hino yama bears
N.N.E. ^ E., when alter course to S.S.W. ^ W., and pass to the westward
of the re(? beacon on the Yodsibi Rocks. Pass Kibune Point at 1^ cable,
and take care not to shut Hino yama in with the above point until the
Narusi Eock is passed (at about 1^ cable), when alter course to S.W. by S.,
keeping the hill over Mozi saki open of Kibune Point until Clump Hill
(1,778 ft. high) on the southern shore bears S.E. by E. f E., then alter course
to N.W. by W. f W., until the East extreme of Kanasaki sima is in line
with Cape Sizikuts (the N.W. point of Hiku sima) bearing N.N.W. I W. ;
haul to the northward with this mark on, which leads to the westward of the
Manaita Rock, and in from 6 to 10 fathoms between the Hiku Flat andHamo
Bank, borrowing to the westward as the Hiku Plat is passed, and round Cape
Sizikuts at about 3 cables ; after which, haul up for the lighthouse on the
N.E. point of Rockuren Island, and pass it at from 3 to 4 cables ; or at night
keep the light in sight, taking care not to bring it to bear eastward of
N. by E. ^ E., to clear the shoal extending to the S.E. from Wakura sima
and Kanasaki sima.

Caution. — The mariner is reminded that the tidal streams set through this
strait with great velocity, and that great caution is necessary for the safe
navigation of the ship, to avoid the many dangerous rocks and banks with
which it is encumbered. It is therefore recommended that vessels should
anchor, if the tide be not favourable on arrival at either entrance, and that
the strait should be taken at as nearly at the time of slack water as is
possible.

Anchorage may be had at the western entrance to the strait, to the east-
ward of the Hamo Bank in from 8 to 10 fathoms, with Wakura sima in line
with Cape Sizikuts.

The Western Entrance to the Seto Uchi is at its outer part 35 miles
across, being formed by the West Coast of Nipon running South for 25-
miles from Kado sima, and the North Coast of Kiusiu taking an easterly
direction for the same distance, from Kosime no Osima. At the angle
where these coasts meet, within 3 miles, is the large island of Hiku sima,
above described, South of which is the fairway and entrance to the Strait of
Simonoseki.

IWAYA POINT, low and rocky, with projecting ledges, is at the termi-
nation of a sandy bay 5 miles wide. A wooded hill, 1,100 ft. high, con-
spicuous from the offing, with a round gap in its summit, rises 5 miles S.W.
by W. I W. of Iwaya Point.

INLAND SEA— WESTERN ENTRANCE. 1223

The Kiusiu shore eastward from Iwaya Point is generally low, and skirted
with sandstone ledges, but the back ranges are from 2,000 to 4,000 feet in
height. The shore of Nipon is higher, but its hill ranges lower, or 'from
1,000 to 2,000 ft.

Siro Islands, two in number and 1 mile apart, lie W. by N. J N. 16 miles
from the outer point of Kosime no Osima (Wilson Island) and nearly 5 miles
N.N.E. from Iwaya Point. The north-eastern one, 400 ft- high, with a wooded
summit of rounded outline, has a round rock off its rugged North point and
a shoal spit extending 4 cables off its South point. The South island is in-
dented, its eastern sharp peak being 290 ft. high ; there is shoal water off its
South point ; but its North point is steep-to.

To the S.S.E. for a distance of 1 J mile from the eastern end of South Siro
Sima are a series of rocky patches and shoals, on the outermost of which is
a depth of 2 1 fathoms. At 1| mile southward of this outer patch is a patch
of 2 fathoms, and midway between is a rocky patch of 4^ fathoms.

Masui Sima lies N.E. by N. 6 miles of North Siro sima, and 3 miles from
the shore of Nipon, off Cape Morotzu, the hills over which are 1,000 ft. high.
The channel between is free from known danger.

The northern part of this island is a triple-topped bluff, 900 ft. high ; on
the West coast (about the middle) there is a very sharp peak ; the southern
part of the island is lower, and terminates in a bluff. The island is bold-to
on all sides, except at its South point, off which reefs extend 1 cable. One
mile E.S.E. of the South bluff is a small black rock, 6 ft. high, which should
not be approached too closely.

Ai Sima, bearing S. by E., 6 miles from Masui sima, is a low flat island
covered with trees, and 1 mile in length. Eeefs, dry or sunken, extend 1
mile off its North point, and a spit extends S.E. by S. 1 J mile from the South
point ; there are also others extending 8 cables East of its South point, and
which are marked by a small square rock.

low Reef or Shirasu and Lighthouse. — To the S. W. of Ai sima is a large
detached reef, with a sand patch on it ; and in the channel, a mile wide be-
tween it and Ai sima, the depths are from 3 to 5 fathoms. The lighthouse,
square, and painted in black and white horizontal stripes, 49 ft. high, is
situated on the South part of the reef. From it is shown a fixed red light
at an elevation of 42 ft., visible 8 miles off.

Eokuren Island and Light lie 3 miles S.E. by E. of Ai sima. This island
has on its table land a large and conspicuous clump of trees, 390 ft. above
the sea, which is visible after rounding Kosime no Osima (Wilson Island),
when it will bear about E. ^ N. A spit extends 2 cables from the North
point of the island, but the East side is bold. A fixed hright light is shown
on the eastern extreme of Eokuren, elevated 89 ft. above the eea, and visible
12 miles off. To the westward the light is obscured by the high land of
Eokuren, between N.W. \ N. and S. by W. \ W. The tower is of granite,

1224 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

25 ft. high. The light when first seen, bearing S.E. f S., leads half a mile
from the shoal ground North of Ai sima.

U-Ma Sima Group, consisting of Ma sima, Kanasaki sima, Wakura sima,
and several smaller islets and rocks, lies to the S.W. of Rokuren.

Anchorage. — There is small anchorage on the S.E. sideof Masui sima, with
the shore bluff bearing S.W. There is anchorage also along the Nipon
shore, East of Ai sima and Rokuren, in 7 and 9 fathoms, but the coast
should not be approached within half a mile, as it is fringed with reefs ;
northward of this the reefs extend a mile off shore. If, however, there be
suflacient daylight to get round Rokuren, it is recommended to do so instead
of anchoring outside for the night, and bring-to on the bank half a mile
South of the U-Ma sima Group, in 6 or 7 fathoms.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the western entrance to Simo-
noseki Strait, at 10 p.m., and the rise and fall is scarcely 4 ft. At Kokura,
on the South side of entrance, it is high water about 9*" 20'".

If hound to Simonoseki from the westward, pass about 1 mile North of Kosime
no Osima (Wilson Island), and steer E. by N. ^ N. for the North point of
North Siro sima, which pass at half a mile ; then steer East, taking care not
to bring the North point of North Siro sima to the northward of West, till
the lighthouse on the eastern extremity of Rokuren Island opens out S.E. f 8.,
or at night until the light is sighted, so as to clear the reefs marked by the
red buoy off the North point of Ai sima. A S.E. course will then lead up
to Rokuren, which can be rounded at 3 cables, when steer S. by W. to pass
Cape Sisikuts, the West point of Hiku sima, at a distance of nearly half a
mile ; or at night keep the light in sight, taking care not to bring it to bear
eastward of N. by E. i E.

The Southern Channel only shortens the distance 4 miles, and requires the
new survey as a guide. To the S.E. of Shirasu there is but a depth of 2 to
2i fathoms in it.

THE GOTO ISLANDS AND THE WEST COASTS OF KIUSIU
AND NIPON.

The GOTO ISLANDS, a mountainous chain of many islands, lying be-
tween the parallels of 32° 37' and 33° 20' N., is 50 miles in extent in a N.E.
and S.W. direction, and from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. The group cannot
be said to have been thoroughly examined, but the information relating to
it is much more reliable since H.M.S. Sylvia, Lieut. Pearce, R.N., made an
examination of the more important portions in 1877. Our knowledge pre-
vious to this was from visits of H.M.S. Saracen, in 1855, and of Commanders
Brooker and C J. Bulloek, in 1866-9.

GOTO ISLANDS. 1225

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in the East Bay (Ojika) at
8'' 40-"; springs rise 101 ft., neaps 2 to 4 ft. The duration of the tidal
streams in the North part of Goto Islands is nearly equal ; the main direction
of the flood is to the northward, and ebb to the southward. In the vicinity
of Hira sima the streams run through the channels at the rate of 3 to 5
knots during springs, causing heavy overfalls.

Ojika Seto or Kosaka Channel is the strait lying southward of Uku sima
and Tera sima, the latter 120 ft. high, off the S.W. side of Uku sima. To
the eastward of its entrance are the Kuromo-zey a cluster of rocks, 50 ft. high,
at 2f miles S.E. of Uku sima. There is anchorage in a bay on the N.E. side
of Tera sima, between that island and Uku sima. There is a bank in the
centre of this harbour of 4^ to 5 fathoms water; the best anchorage is
northward of this bank. Some supplies may be obtained from the villages.
The harbour should be approached with Tera sima seen just open to the
westward of Uku sima, bearing N.W. \ W-

The western entrance of the Ojika seto is only 9 cables wide between Tera
sima and No sima. Neither the South side of Tera sima nor the North
side of No sima should be approached. Ai-no-se, 16 ft. above high water, is
in the centre of the strait, 2 miles N.E. of No sima ; and Mu sima, 254 feet
high, with dangers extending a quarter of a mile South from its eastern
point, lies on the South side of the eastern entrance to the strait, at 3^
miles eastward of No sima.

Nosaki Sima, 1,142 ft. high, is 3i miles long North and South. Between
it and Mu sima to the northward is a strait a mile wide, in which are several
dangers. Between the South end of Nosaki sima and the North end of
Nakadori is a narrow strait clear of danger ; but the islets 7ffw;Vand Skimomu,
lying between 1 and 2 miles S.S.E. of it, should be avoided, as many dangers
exist near them.

Ojika Island, 3i miles long East and West, lies South of No sima, a navi-
gable channel separating them, ^ast Bay, on the eastern shore of Ojika, is
three-quarters of a mile deep, and nearly 7 cables wide at its entrance. The
shore of this bay is fronted with shelving rocks that cover at high water.
Erom Tonozaki, the South entrance point, rocks extend 2 cables in a northerly
direction, and shallow water half a mile in a south-easterly direction. Kus-
sukuri, the North entrance point, is marked by a rock above water at the
extremity of the shelving rocks. The depths in East Bay are from 4 to 14
fathoms, the best anchorage being in about 8 fathoms, with the North point
of Nosaki sima in line with the rock off Kuszukuri Point, bearing E. by
N. ^ N. ; and the South end of Nosaki sima in line with Tan-ji Islet,
S.S.E. f E.

Ko-guro Sima, 57 ft. high, situated 6J cables westward of the S.E. point
of Ojika, and 2 cables from the shore, is 400 yards long East and West, and

I. A. 7 R

1226 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

300 yards broad. This island is steep-to, except off the N.E. point. An-
chorage can be obtained nearly midway between Ko-guro sima and the S.E.
point of Ojika, in 7f fathoms, sand, with the South extremes of Ko-guro
sima and Kuro sima in line, bearing W. by S. h S., and the hill over the
S.E. point of Ojika N.N.E. J E. This anchorage is sheltered from northerly
winds,, and the depths are even.

For 11 miles to the westward of Ojika there are many islets. The
northern of these, named Eoage or Arch Roch, lies 5 miles West from the
West end of Ojika, and consists of two pinnacles, 167 and 120 ft. high. A
dangerous roch, dry 5 ft. at low water springs, with 5 to 11 fathoms round it,
and on which the sea generally breaks, lies to the northward of Hoage, with
the summit of Biriyo sima in line with the West extreme of Hoage, bearing
S.W. I S., distant from the latter 6J cables, and Aka sima West point
S.E. by E. easterly. There is a depth of from 20 to 34 fathoms between
this rock and Hoage.

Shiro-se, 105 ft. high, 13J miles W. by S. from Ojika seto, is the western-
most islet in the northern portion of the Goto Islands. It is divided into two
pinnacles, nearly the same height, lying in a N.E. and S.W. direction. Off
the islet are several rocks.

Hodge Rock or Shaku shi, a rock awash at low water, with deep water
around it, lies N. \ W., distant 4 J cables from Shiro-se. The North peak of
Nosaki sima in line with Hoage, bearing East, will lead 2 cables to the
northward of Hodge Rock.

Korai-nO'Ze Roch, with 18 ft. water, lies near the S.E. edge of a rocky
bank ; this bank extending N.W. by N., three-quarters of a mile, with a
breadth of 4 cables, has from 5 to 10 fathoms. At 3 cables southward of the
rock the depth is 20 fathoms; and at half a mile from the depth of 5 J fa-
thoms on the northern edge of the bank there is 38 fathoms. The North
point of Bi'ayo-sima, in line with the North peak of Nosaki- sima bearing
E. f N., leads northward of Korai-no-ze. South point of Hira-sima in line
with the North peak of Nosaki-sima, bearing E. by N. J N., leads southward
of Korai-no-ze.

Nakadori sima is 2 If miles long between Sawo saki, the South extreme,
and Tsua saki, the North extreme. The coast line of Nakadori sima, the
greater part of which has not yet been surveyed, is deeply indented with
bays. 0-mitzu yama, a flat peak, 1,446 ft. high, 6 miles from its North end,
is the summit of Nakadori sima.

Nama ura Bay, situated on the western side of Nakadori sima, immediately
to the southward of 0-mitzu yama, may be recognized by Cone Roch, 313 ft.
high, which forms the South entrance point of the bay. Nama ura is 2
miles deep and half a mile wide, with an even depth of about 16 fathoms;
from the N.E. side of entrance shelving rocks extend 3A- cables in a S.W.
direction.

GOTO ISLANDS. 1227

The best anchorage for large vessels is near the head of Nama ura, in 10
fathoms water, 2f cables from the shore, with the peak of sima just open
eastward of the Cone Eock, bearing N. by W. J W., a patch of red cliff on
the West shore of the bay, jast North of Nama village, W. by S. i S., and
Joss Point N.E.

Hira sima, nearly 2 miles from the East extreme of Nakadori sima, and
4 miles westward of Yenoi sima, is 663 ft. high. Its western side is steep-
to, and its eastern irregular, with a few off-lying dangers and islets. Haido-
mari Bay, on the N.E. side of Hira sima, is 6 cables deep. It is, however,
only suitable for junks. Komoda Bay, situated on the S.W. side of the
island, affords protection to small vessels from North and easterly winds ;
near the centre of this bay lies a small wooded islet, named Kojima ; vessels
should anchor to the south-eastward of this islet. Nanori is a remarkable
rock, 92 ft. high, 6 cables to the south-westward of Komo-no-saki, having
rocky ledges surrounding it.

The channels on either side of Hira sima are navigable ; the channel be-
tween Hira sima and Nakadori sima is clear of danger, but in the channel
between Hira sima and Yenoi sima are the Saracen Reefs, situated to the
southward of Yenoi sima, and S.E. 3 miles from the North end of Hira sima,
and the foul ground to the south-westward of Kuro sima (a small islet 120
feet high). The eastern shore of Hira sima is the clearer side of this
channel.

Oldham. Rock, covered at high water springs, lies nearly 1^ mile E. by N.
from Sawo saki, the South extreme of Nakadori. An islet, 78 ft. high, half
a mile to the westward of Sawo saki in line with it, bearing West, leads to
the southward.

The channel between the South end of Nakadori and Kaba sima to the
southward is 3 miles wide, and, with the exception of some dangers close to
its northern shore, seems deep and clear of danger. On the S.W. side of
Nakadori sima is Wakamatsu sima, the narrow Nakadori Channel lying between.
The strait between Wakamatsu sima and Naru sima, a mile wide, has not
been examined. It is named Takigawara seta.

The Kuga Channel, or Naru Seto, between Naru sima on the North and
Hisakajima on its South side, was examined by H.M.S. Saracen, and found
to carry deep water, 26 to 32 fathoms, through it. This channel may be
approached either around the North or South sides of Kabasima. If using
the channel to the North of Kabasima, there is a sunken rock to be avoided.
It lies West 3 miles from the North end of Kabasima, and about half a mile
eastward of the South end of the island (IJ mile long N.N.E. and S.S.W.),
which lies close to the westward of the long promontory forming the South
end of Naru sima.

Hwrdy Harbour, a small inlet, 6 cables in length North and South, and 3
to 4 cables broad, is a snug anchorage, on the S.W. side of Naru sima. It

1228 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

is entered from the Kuga Channel. On the South side of its entrance is
Observatory Islet, at 1 cable South of which a shoal, steep-to, with 9 ft. water,
extends IJ cable from the shore. From the N.W. side of the entrance a
shoal extends southward halfway across the entrance. The best anchorage
is in 6 or 7 fathoms W.N.W. of Observatory Islet, and rather nearer to the
opposite shore.

Fukuye or Fukai, the chief town of the Goto Islands, is situated on the
shore of an open roadstead on the north-eastern side of Fukuye sima, the
southern and largest island of the chain, and southward of the Fukuye
Channel, which separates it from Kuga sima. On either side this channel
(which is a mile in breadth, with every probability of carrying deep water
throughout) there is an anchorage, also several others surrounding the in-
dented coast of Fukuye sima, but neither channel nor anchorages have yet
been explored, with the exception of Tama no ura, on the S.W.

Cape Goto, or Ose Saki, the S.W. point of Fukuye sima, about 500 ft. high^
is exceedingly bold. Behind, or north-eastward of the cape, rise three fine
mountains, about N.N.W. of each other, of which the northern and highest
is 1,387 feet above the sea. At the extremity of the coast, which extends
E.S.E. Smiles from the cape, is Otakara Point. A quarter of a mile S.E.
is the islet Bira Sima, 150 ft. in height, with a rock IJ cable off it to tho
southward. E. by S. 3 miles from Otakara is Tsutara Sima, 320 ft. high,
Eeefs stretch off its East and West points. To the North of this island is a
large bay, at the western part of which anchorage maybe obtained. Situated
centrally in the large bay, at 7 cables N.N.W. of Tsutara, are two islets.

The coast East of Tsutara has not been explored. Kasayama saki, the
southern cape of Fukuye, is low and wooded, and separated by a valley
from the mountains.

Tama no Ura, the name of a large inlet or arm of the sea, on the -western
side of Fukuye sima, only partially explored, is finely situated as a port of
refuge, and but for its great depth of water would be a magnificent harbour.
Its only entrance is 4^ miles N.N.E. of Ose saki, and 2^ miles S.E. of the-
island Saga sima, which is If mile in length, and shows two distinct hills on
its North and South parts, which are separated by a valley through the
island. In the bay on the East side of Saga there is good anchorage in 7 to
8 fathoms, quite sheltered from all westerly winds.

The entrance to Tama no ura is a mile wide, and must not be mistaken for
the blind opening 2 cables wide, only 2 miles North of Ose saki.

The best anchorage for large ships will be found at the S.E. part of thet
harbour, in 16 fathoms, mid-channel, with the peak of Boshi yama, which
is seen ahead when standing up the harbour, bearing from S.W. by W. to
AV.S.W. There are many parts of the harbour where ships can make fast
to the shore in perfectly tranqijil water.

ME AC SIMA GROUP. 122?

BluflP, falling to a low point, the north-western promontory of Fukuye,
which is fronted by shelving rocks. Hime sima, 350 ft. high, is separated
from this point by a channel a mile wide, in which was seen a rock awash.

Several swtiken rocks lie oflP the N. W. side of Fuknye sima, at distances of
from 3 to 6 miles. Nichisone Rocky a 9-feet patch, lies West 6J miles from
Hime sima, and N. by W. ^ W. 5^ miles from the North end of Saga sima.
Carasone RocTc, of 6 ft., lies N.W. 3 miles from Hime sima. Becrez Roch, of
21 ft., N. by W. J W., 3 miles from Hime sima. Between the two latter is
another sunken rock.

Camono sima is a group of islets, lying 2 miles westward of the western
entrance to Tanna ura seto (the channel dividing Fukuye from Hisakajima),
N.W. a little more than a mile from the North extreme of these islets is a
sunken rock.

PALLAS ROCKS, three in number, lie close together, S.W. 30 miles from
Cape Goto. The largest rock, in lat. 32° 14' 17' N., long. 128" 12' 30" E.,
is about 60 ft. high, and very steep-to.

Pallas Pocks are steep-to ; fishing vessels, by hooking on to the lee side
of the rocks, ride out moderate breezes. During four passages these rock&
were passed by the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steam-ship Orissa,
and the set of the current in this locality was found to be with the wind.

MEAC SIMA GROUP consist of two islands, sometimes called the Asses'^
Ears, with intermediate smaller islands and rocks. Taka sima, the N.E.
island, is nearly 1|^ mile long, and 618 ft. above the sea, and is somewhat
level at the top.

Caution. — Reefs a few feet above water were observed by the Peninsular
and Oriental Company's steam-ship Oms«, in 1875, to extend 2 or 3 miles-
to the N.E. of Taka sima, and foul ground may possibly extend farther out
than was seen. The islet lying N.N.W. a mile distant from Taka sima is
about 70 ft. high.

Kma-kaki, the S.W. island, is less than half the size of the N.E. island,
but 100 ft. higher and very craggy. Its remarkable peak probably suggested
the name of the group to its first discoverers. Me sima and Wo sima, the
intermediate small islands and rocks, are high and cliffy, the latter partaking
generally of the sugar-loaf form. Rocks extend South about a third of a
mile from the S.W. island, and a detached rock, 15 ft. high, lies S.W. IJ
mile from the S.W. end of the group.

KOSIKI ISLANDS, consisting of two large and several small islands,
extend in a N.E. and S.W. direction from lat. 31° 37' to 31° 53' N., and from
long. 129° 41' to 130° 0' E. They are not high, but their appearancd is bold
in passing. The Nadieda Rocks, off their West side, are considered to be
about 4 miles from the shore, and 7 miles North of Haya saki, their western-
most point.

At the South end of Simono ko siki, the southern island is a small bay, in

1230 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGQ.

■which is anchorage. A sunJce7i rock lies East \\ mile from the eastern
entrance point of this bay and S.E. extreme of the island.

A reef is reported (1877) byCapt. Kiljour of the steam-vessel Kiushu-Maru
as lying in lat. 31° 20' N., long. 130° 10' E., about \\ mile S.S.W. ^ W.
from Okino-Akima, and 1 mile from the nearest part of the mainland. The
rock has been seen to break in N.W. winds. The reef is said by Captain
Davidson, of the Kinjun Maru, to lie farther "West.

Between Kamino, or the northern Kosiki, and the shore, 17 miles dis-
tant, are several dangers and rocks. A conical rock lies a mile eastward of
the N.E. extreme of the island ; S. ^ E. 1^ mile from this is Tsika, a small
rock above water, with a number of dangers just eastward of it. Midway
between the conical rock and Tsiko is a sunken rock at the West end of a
series of rocks above and below water, which thence extends 2 miles to the
eastward. Pinnacle rocks, a small cluster, lie a mile N.E. of their eastern
end. Pioneer Rocks, above water, but dangerous from their smallness, are
reported as lying S.E. by E. 3 miles from Pinnacle Eocks, and 10 miles
W. ^ N. from Kami Saki. A doubtful sunken rock is marked 3 miles eastward
of the Pioneer Eocks.

Taka Sima, or Simplegades, lie S. by E. about 11^ miles from Na Saki,
the South point of the Kosiki group. They are described as three rocky
islets, forming a triangle, the sides of which are each not more than a cable
in extent ; to the southward are two small rocks about 7 ft. in height, and a
rock awash was observed by H.M.S. Highflyer, in 1859, lying a quarter of a
mile southward of the group.

The Tsukarase, or Retribution Rocks, two in number, apparently steep-to,
were discovered by H.M.S. Retribution, 6th August, 1858. They lie in line
North and South, about 2 cables apart, in lat. 31° 23i' N., long. 129° 44' E.
The two southernmost rocks lie in a needle form about 60 ft. above the sea j
the northern rock is flat, and only 10 ft. high.

TJdsi Sima, or Roche Poncie Group,* consist of one island, with some rocks
and islets surrounding it. The island is 2 miles in circumference, the western
part somewhat flat, but the eastern rising in a precipitous peak to the height
of 1,060 ft. above the sea. It is in lat. 31° 12' N., long. 129° 29' E. Two
and a half and one mile respectively to the S.W. of the island are two small
islets ; and to the eastward of its peak about a mile is another islet.

" The Udsi Sima are high, and of considerable extent. The easternmost
island appeared larger, and its position to be farther North than marked in
the chart; no foul ground was near them." — (Stephen Court, Master of
H.M.S. Furious, 1858.)

The WEST COAST of KIUSIU.-From Satano Misaki, the South point of

* Thus named (and deservedly so, if an European name is admissible), after the Inge-
nieur-hydrographo of Ihe French Expedition under Admiral Cecille in 1846.

KIUSIU— KAGOSIMA GULF. 1231

Kinsiu, the coast trends to the northward, forming a large gulf (Kagosima),
the coasts of which have only been partially examined.

Anchorage. — H.M.S. Furious, in 1858, experienced a strong breeze from
the N.E., and being accompanied with a falling barometer, an anchorage
was sought for under and to the westward of Cape Chichakoff. The vessel
eventually came-to in 13 fathoms, abreast a small village near the centre of
the first bay northward of the cape, with the extreme of the cape bearing
S.S.W., Horner Peak N.W. \ N., and Oto Saki N.N. W. ; here she was weU
sheltered. A small but well sheltered inlet in the N.E. corner of the gulf
in which the Furious anchored (Yama Gawa) has since been examined, and
is of great service to small vessels meeting with adverse winds, when bound
eastward through Van Dieman Strait.

KAGOSIMA GULF is an arm of the sea 35 miles in length, and from 5
to 10 in breadth, which runs in a North direction into the southern part of
Kiusiu. At 25 miles within its entrance the large island of Sakura nearly
fills the head of the gulf, with channels on both sides leading into an inner
gulf or spacious harbour, 6 miles by 9, and quite landlocked.

There is no good anchorage on the eastern side, except on the small bank
North of Havock Islands in the North part of the gulf, where there is aa
anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms. In Sata Iras Bay, about 2 miles northward of
Oto Saki, there is shelter from South and S.E. winds for one vessel in 5J
fathoms.

Kami Rock lies in the mid-entrance of Kagosima Gulf, 3 miles off the
northern shore. The bearings from it are, — Horner Point, N.W. by W. #•
W. ; Horner Peak, N.W. | W. ; Satano Misaki, S. | E. ; Oto Saki, S.S.E-
^ E. ; and the East head of Tsiring Sima just opening the North and low
wooded point of Yama Gawa, N.N.E. ^ E.

Yama Gawa, a small harbour, formed on the West side of entrance of
Kagosima Gulf, is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its North part opens
East to the sea by a funnel-shaped passage, a quarter of a mile in length,
but only 1 cable wide at its inner part, formed by an extensive shoal bank
which extends 1 mile from the shore. South of the entrance. There are 3f
to 4J fathoms over the lip of the crater or bar, with one patch of 2 fathoms
in the centre. No vessel should attempt to enter in bad weather, although
a small vessel may lie there at anchor or moored to the shore. Inside the
harbour the water is deep.

Two dangerous swikeii rocks, on the outer of which, named Waters Roch, is
2i feet water, and on the inner 9 feet, lie close together, E. J N., 1 mile
from the northern point of the entrance to Yama Gawa Harbour. Between
the rocks and the shore is a depth of 6 fathoms.

At 4 miles northward of Yama Gawa entrance lies Tsiring sima, on the
western shore of the gulf, about 1 mile from the shore, to which it is con-
nected by a reef on which the sea sometimes breaks. It is from 150 to 200 ft.
high. On the eastern shore, opposite, a shoal bank called the Racehorse Shoal,

1232 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

extends about 2J miles from the shore. Between this shoal and Tsiring
sima the gulf is narrowed to about 3 miles. Thence the Kagosima Gulf
extends for about 17 miles to the northward, with a uniform breadth of
about 10 miles to the Island of Sakura.

Seven Rochs is the name of a cluster of small rocks, which lies on the
western shore of the gulf at 15 miles N.W. by N. from Tsiring sima. A
shoal patch lies just outside them.

The channel at the S.E. end of Sakura is very narrow, and has not been
examined. On the western side of the island are several villages, and in the
channel dividing Sakura from the shore to the westward is Parher Shoal,
on which a fort is built. On the S.W. side of this shoal temporary anchor-
age may be found.

Kagosima. — Facing the Island of Sakura on the West, the Kiusiu shore
projects, narrowing the western channel into the inner gulf to 7 cables at its
northern part, its length being 4 miles. On this projecting shore stands the
city of Kagosima, the fortress of the Daimio, Prince of Satsuma. Battery
Point, to the South of the city, is low, and has a spit extending from and
around it to 2 cables, and very steep at its edge ; a shoal also fills the bay
North of this point. Off the centre of Kagosinaa in front of the Daimio's
Castle, is an inner harbour or large camber, gained by entrances between
five forts of masonry, which have deep water close up to them. This castle
cannot be seen from the gulf. There is a cannon-shot foundry here, worked
by Japanese. Two small rivers disembogue, one on the North side of the
city with long spits off its points of entrance, on one of which H.M.S Eace-
horse grounded ; the other. South of the city, falls into the shallow bay just
North of Battery Point. North of the city the hills reach the sea.

The western shore of Sakura Island is very bold, but anchorage in from
15 to 25 fathoms may be found in Euryalus Bay E. ^ N. of the castle of
Kago Sima, very close in. In an easterly gale there is danger of driving oflf
the bank into very deep water and having to slip the cables.

The Coast from Sendai Saki northward to Amakusa, together with the
Otentosama Sea, is as yet comparatively unknown. In the middle of the
entrance to the Otentosama Sea is Naga Sima, the channel westward of
which is foul 10 miles within. The Kuro-ne-seto, S.E. of Naga Sima is a
safe and clear strait. There is one rock only on the western shore, it is close
in, and shows at low water. The tides run with very great velocity through
the strait, which should only be used as slack water. The northern part of
Otentosama Sea is shoal.

A reef-wsLS reported in 1877 as lying IJ mile S.S.W. i W. from Okino-
Akima, in lat. 31° 20' N., long. 130° 10' E.

AMAKUSA, a large island 23 miles in length, lies S.S.W. of the Simabara
peninsula ; between them is the western entrance to the gulf, only 2^ miles
in width. Two harbours, Tomioka and Sagitsu no ura on the western coast
of the island, have been examined.

SIMABARA GULF. 1233

Kotamo Bay, on the South end of Amakusa, is well protected by Kasu
sima. A reef lies in the centre of the bay above water, with a passage
carrying from 13 to 16 fathoms on each side of it, and three other detached
reefs, which always show above water, lie on the eastern shore closer in.
The depth in the bay is from 13 to 16 fathoms, shoaling to 8 or 9 fathums
at 1 cable from the shore. In rounding Kasu sima do not approach too near
the S.E. rock, as reefs have been observed on which the sea broke heavily
outside this rock.

Koto no Mm.— This bay has a series of detached reefs in its centre, and
there appears to be no anchorage for anything but native craft.

Sagitsu no ura has been recently surveyed, and the channel leading to the
narrow passage found rocky and uneven. There are three rocks north-
westward of the entrance, the two eastern of which are pinnacles ; the
western is low. Only 4 fathoms can be carried at low water along the
northern shore. Cormorant Inlet also is almost closed by the bank of shingle
which extends across, and in the channel only 1 fathom at low water can be
obtained. Kami ura is an inlet on the South shore.

Timioka, about 14 miles from Sagitsu no ura, is a lagoon-like harbour,
on the eastern side of a small peninsula, which forms the N.W. point of
Amakusa. The harbour is formed by a low tongue of land, curving round
to the westward and enclosing it, giving complete shelter. The entrance is
from the S.E. by a channel carrying 5 fathoms water close alongthe South
side of the low tree-covered tongue which forms the eastern side of the
harbour. The deep part of this channel is only 150 yards broad ; a vessel
should therefore be steered in at that distance from the shore on a W.N.W.
course, with the village. of Tomioka ahead, carrying in 4 J to 5 fathoms, and
may anchor in the centre of the harbour in 6 fathoms. It is very shallow off
the South shore at entrance, but a flat of 3 fathoms borders the channel,
making it for that depth a quarter of a mile in breadth.

SIMABARA GULF.— Of this large gulf, which extends 70 miles into the
heart of Kiusiu, little is known. Simabara is a large and broad peninsula,
so situated as to make this gulf an inland sea. On the eastern shore of the
peninsula there stands a city of the same name. In the centre of the pe-
ninsula is an active volcano. The head of the Simabara Gulf is shallow and
full of dangers, and vessels navigating it should avoid the very turbulent
chow-chow (or disturbed water.)

A rock lies at the entrance of the gulf, and uncovers 5 ft. at low water.
It bears N. 20° W. from the East extreme of Tsuji sima, and N. 64° W.
from East extreme of Oosima.

The western passage into the gulf, North of the " 5 -ft. rock," seems
preferable, as it is less exposed in its eastern part to the force of the tide,
which here runs with great velocity and produces whirlpools. Great care

1234 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

is therefore requisite in the steering of the vessel. This rock always shows,
except at high-water springs. Southward of the " 5-ft. rock," between it
and Tsigi-sima, several rocks have been reported showing at low water ; the
Japanese do not use this channel.

Abreast the town of Simabara a bank, having 3J fathoms, extends at least
half a mile from the shore. There is probably no safe anchorage close to
Simabara. To the southward of Do-saki, Ohoye, and Fusinotsu there is
probably safe anchorage ; and at Fusinotsu is a junk harbour, in which was
seen a Japanese barque of 300 tons.

, The eastern side of Simabara Gulf seems shoal throughout ; but the lead
may be considered a safe guide in approaching the bank.

Tsikugo-gawa, situated at the head of Simabara Gulf, is reported to have
a depth of 12 ft. on the bar. The foreshore is very low, but the land at the
back is high.

Tides. — Springs rise 14 ft. at the town of Simabara ; in the southern part
of the gulf the range is greater.

About 22 miles of the eastern side of the Nagasaki peninsula has been
surveyed. It has generally a bold steep coast, but there are several places
on it where a vessel blown to leeward of Nomo saki by West winds will
find anchorage and good shelter from them.

Aba Bay is rectangular in shape, 1 J mile deep, and 1 mile in breadth.
There is anchorage in the centre of the bay in 7 fathoms, open only be-
tween South and S.E. The eastern side of the bay is formed by Maki
sima, which has some islets on the reefs on its South side, one of which ex-
tends 4 cables. There is a boat camber at the village on the western side of
the bay.

On the N.E. side of Maki sima is a small harbour, connected with Aba
Bay by a narrow channel. It has from 10 to 12 feet water, but only 9 feet
between the reefs at its eastern entrance, which is scarcely a cable wide.
There is a road or bridle path to Nagasaki through the valley, only 3 miles
distant from the head of Aba Bay.

Mogi Bay is 3 miles S.W. from Aba Bay. Small craft can anchor in from
3 to 6 fathoms, sheltered except from South to East ; and larger vessels in
from 9 to 11 fathoms off the entrance.

Tameitsi Bay is 5^ miles S.W. from Mogi. Steer for the village at its
head, and when Kaba sima shuts in behind the southern point of the bay
anchor in 10 fathoms or less, about 2 cables off shore. Sitziwura, a small
bay 2 miles farther N.E., has anchorage in from 9 to 10 fathoms, at 2 cables
off shore. There is an islet or rock on the reef which extends 2 cables off
the South point of the bay ; it lies directly under and S.E. of the highest
peak of Kawara yama.

Between Sitsiwura and Mogi Bays there is an islet and several large reefs,
which extend 2 or 3 cables from the shore.

NAGASAKI. 1235

Misahi Bay, North of Kaba sima and East of the low jutting point and
sandy beach where stands the large village of Misaki, affords anchorage in
from 7 to 11 fathoms.

Kabasima Bay, between Nomo saki and Kaba sima, affords anchorage at
its north-western part open only between S.E. and'S.W. Here reefs which
dry project 1^ cable from the shore ; at 2 cables from the shore there are
8 fathoms, and at 4 cables distance 11 fathoms about E.N.E. of the Nomo
Eock. The eastern part of the bay, where a long sandy beach is seen, should
be avoided, there being a sunken rock, Bay Rock, on which are 6 ft water
with 4 and 6 fathoms about it. Its position is E. \ N. 1^ mile from the
Nomo Rock, and N. f W. of the West point of Kaba sima, at half a mile
from the shores of island and main. Off the South side of Kaba sima are
some rocks.

The West Coast of Nagasaki Peninsula. — From 10 miles outside the is-
lands fronting the West coast of Nagaski the soundings decrease gradually
over a bottom chiefly sand, until 30 fathoms is obtained, which will be at a
general distance of a mile from all the outer islands ; the only exception is
an 18 fathoms spit which extends one mile N.W. of the Sotonohirase Hock,
and the extremity of which is U mile W.S.W. of the N.W. point of Iwo
sima. Within this island, the bottom in the fairway is of mud, gravel, or
rock.

IWO SIMA and LIGHTHOUSE.— Iwo Sima lies in a N.W. and S.E. di-
rection, and is of undulating outline, the eastern summit being 400 feet in
height. Signal Head forms its N.W. point, and on this is established a signal
station (for telegraphing the arrival of vessels), and the lighthouse, an iron
tower painted white, 38 feet high, from which is shown a fixed bright light,
elevated 205 feet above the sea. The light is obscured to the South and
eastward between S.W. by S. and E. 2- S. Signal Head is a good guide for
entering the harbour of Nagasaki. It is bold and may be rounded at 3 cables
distance in 25 fathoms.

Oki Sima, of much the same height as Iwo, is more wooded, especially its
southern summit. There is access to the harbour by the channel East of
Oki, between it and Koyaki. Iwo and Oki appear as one long island, al
though separated by a narrow boat passage.

Hirase Rock, which covers at high water only, is marked by a beacon,
painted red and 10 ft. high. It lies 4 cables from the eastern shore of Iwo
sima, and E. by S. J S. 11 cables from Signal Head, and although not directly
in the fairway, is in the route of vessels beating in and out. There do not
appear to be any other dangers near it. If covered, the bluff of Papenburg
Island, bearing E. I S., leads 3 cables North of it.

Sotonohirase Rock, also covering at high water, is 9 cables off the S.W.
shore of Iwo sima, and S. by W. \ W. U miles from Signal Head. The
Kutmose, 10 ft. high, lies inshore of the Sotonohirrse, at li cable from Iwo

1236 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

simo. The Kurose is a large straggling reef off the South end of Oki, from
which it is distant 4 cables.

Taka Sima, at 3 miles S. by W. of Signal Head, has a precipitous ridge
about 900 ft. high on its eastern side, and a smaller ridge over the cliffs on
its western or sea-face. Reefs extend IJ cable of its North and West points.
Three small islands, about 120 ft. high, Tobi sima to the North, and Eutako
sima (two islands) on the South, lie in line. North and South of its East
face. The latter two are connected and fringed by reefs.

There are coalmines, the first in Japan worked on European principles, on
the East side of Taka sima, from which coal of a very fair quality is mined.
The only anchorage is on the West side of the island in from 2 to 7 fathoms
oa a bank of coal and sand, which at 3 cables from the shore deepens sud-
denly to 15 and 20 fathoms. Small vessels might anchor there in fine wea-
ther and smooth water, but the anchorage is neither of sufficient extent or
protection to be in any way recommended to H.M.'s ships requiring coal.

Hi sima and Nagano sima, Ij and 2 miles S. by W. and S.S.W. respectively
from the summit of Taka sima, are smooth-topped islands about 120 feet in
height, with rocky shores and with reefs extending more than a cable off
their southern points. Nagama sima is 4 cables S.W. of Hi sama, there
being deep water, about 14 or 16 fathoms, in the passage between them.

Mitzuse lioch, the outermost dangers in the approach to Nagasaki from the
South, lie 3t miles S.W. of Taka sima, and N.W. ^ W. 2| miles from the
summit of Nomo saki. They spread irregularly over an extent of half a mile^
the interior rocks of the group covering with the tide. On the northern-
most rocks are two pointed islets, 60 ft. in height, with outlying patches on
the East and West ; the south-eastern of the group is a bare rock about 6
feet above high water. At one cable westward or outside the rocks there
are 23 fathoms and no outlying dangers are known, but it would not be
prudent to pass between the rocks although the water appeared deep.

NOMO SAKI is the south-western extremity of the peninsula of Nagasaki,
and at a distance has the appearance of an island. At 6 cables North of the
cape is Nomo yama Point, which rises steeply to a wooded summit, beneath
which stands a look-out house ; the hill slopes towards the cape in two gently
descending ridges of small hills : the coast between is broken and rocky,
and skirted with dangerous reefs which dry out in patches to a quarter of a
mile, but it may be passed at the distance of 4 cables in from 12 to 17
fathoms, gravel and rock. At 2 cables off the cape is an inaccessible islet
called Nomo Rock, which is surrounded by small low detached rocks, most of
which cover.

Nomo ura, the entrance of which is one mile N.E. of Nomo yana Point,
is small and perfectly sheltered, 6 cables in length and from 1 to 2 in breadth,
with 9 to 10 feet at high water in the deepest part of its narrow entrance.
Take care to keep rather along the southern shore in entering.

NAGASAKI. 1237

The coast of the peninsula northward from Nomo yam a Point is bold with
a few outlying rocks, and should not be approached within half a mile, the
ground off it being uneven and rooty.

Suzume, 6 miles north-eastward of No saki, is a bare rock, about 50 feet
high, and the north-western of a group of islets. No sima, the southern, and
all the other islets, are wooded and low, and surrounded by large reefs.
There is a 5 fathoms channel between No sima and the coast, but the islet
must be closed in passing, as a large reef projects from the shore. Suzume
may be rounded at 3 cables on its West side in 15 fathoms, rock or gravel,
but at that distance N.N.E. there are only 5 fathoms.

Koyaki is the largest island off Nagasaki, and is situated directly S.W. of
the entrance, which may be gained by the channels both East and West of
it. This island is not high, but very hilly, its two chief elevations being 362
and 403 ft. Numerous reefs and islets border its broken outline. Of these
Johi sima and Uadagase, an islet and a rock, lie about W.S.W. at 5 and 8
cables respectively off Mumenoki, the South point of Koyaki, with from 15 to
18 fathoms inside them. Hodagase may be passed at 4 cables on its West
side in 26 fathoms. The large bay on the northern side of Koyaki has from
17 to 20 fathoms water, and, besides being too deep for convenient anchor-
age, is open to the N.W. swell. On the eastern side of Koyaki, there is a
mass of reefs in the South Channel.

Kageno. — This island appears part of Koyaki, as it is only separated from
its North point by a narrow boat passage. The Naginato or Hungry Hock,
■which covers at high water, lies a cable East of its N.E. point, off which is a
small islet.

Kamino sima, at 6 cables North of Kageno, is the largest island on the
northern side of the fairway to Nagasaki. Its North hill is elevated 330 ft.,
and on its central hill, which is lower, is a Signal Staff. On the East side
there is a small boat camber ; on the S.W. the small flat island of Siro sima,
on which there is a battery, is connected with a work on Kamino sima by a
causeway of masonry. There are other batteries on Kamino sima, all of
which command the passage.

North-westward of Siro sima are the two small islands Aino sima and Mats
sima. Aino sima, at li cables distance, is aflat table island on a reef, with
a conspicuous rock (the observing place of Belcher, in 1843, from which
several meridian distances were measured to Lu-chu, Quelpart, &c.) close off
its South point ; Mats sima, at 5 cables, is a small hill 90 ft. high. There
is deep water in the passage between Siro sima and Aino sima.

Barracouta Rock. — Off Kabuto saki, the S.E. point of Kamino sima, on
which there is a battery, are some small islets. One cable from these, S.W
of the Tree Rock, and W. by N. of the South bluff of Papenburg, is the
l5arracouta, a sunken rock, which is the only hidden danger in the entrance,

1238 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

and may be cleared to tlie southward by keeping the summit of the coast
range (800 ft.) over Megami Point open of Papenburg, bearing East.

Papenhirg, or Tahahoko, 2 cables S.E. of Kamino sima, is the small pre-
cipitous island covered with dark foliage, which so well marks the entrance
to the harbour. It may be passed at half a cable in 18 fathoms. To the
N.E. of it, and distant one-third of a mile, is a small fiat-wooded island,
Nczumi sima, lying off the small bay of Kibatsu, East of the large village of
Kosedo.

Swinger Rock, with 4 ft. water over it, lies nearly midway between Taka-
boko (Papenberg Island) and Ogami Point. From it. Signal Head, theN.W.
point of Iwo-sima, is in line with Kabuto-saki fort. Centre of Nizumi-sima
bears N.N.W. ^ W. ; centre of Takaboko (Papenberg Island), W. by S. i S. ;
Kosaki Temple, Ogami Point, E. by N. \ N.

This rock may be dangerous for steamships leaving the harbour when
passing another vessel in its vicinity, or for sailing vessels working in, care
must be taken therefore to keep Signal Head well open of Kabuto-saki fort
when near the locality.

The HAEBOXJR of NAGASAKI, an arm or inlet running in a north-
easterly direction, is large and commodious, thoroughly sheltered from all
winds, and available for ships of all classes. From its entrance, which is a
quarter of a mile wide between Ogame Point on the West and Megami
Point on the East, it runs N.E. to the city a distance of 2 miles. The depths
decrease oradually from 16 fathoms at entrance to 3 fathoms off the city. A
sunken rock lies about 70 yards South of the East extreme of Ogame Point.
A temple stands on the South extreme of the point.

Megami Point is at the foot of a steep ridge, on which are three batteries,
one above the other. Within Megami Point I J cables (a small islet lying
between them) is another point, on the extreme of which, in a battery, is a
remarkable large tree. The Hishiwo Bank, which fronts the shore from
De sima to the foreign settlement, is a good and convenient place for
grounding.

The harbour has three approaches. The principal one or fairway is di-
rectly from the N.W., the entrance of which, 4 miles outside the harbour,
is between Fukuda saki and Iwo sima light. Vessels entering Nagasaki
Harbour should invariably use this channel. The second approach is by the
Oki Channel, between Oki sima and Koyaki, but it is only 3 cables in
breadth. Neither this channel nor its approaches have been yet thoroughly
examined. The Kurose, a rocky islet with reefs projecting from it lies in
the fairway to the entrance to this channel from the southward. The third
approach is by the South channel, between Koyaki and the main, and can
only be used by steam-vessels. The whole of this channel is so encumbered
with rocky patches that instructions for its navigation would not be suffi-

NAGASAKI. 1239

cient ; a local pilot would be necessary, and it should never be taken with-
out one.

NAGASAKI, a treaty port, at present second only in importance to Yoko-
hama, and the only place of trade open to foreigners between 1623 and 1857,
covers a broad valley on the eastern side of the harbour, surrounded by
lofty hills. Its population in 1858 amounted to nearly 70,000. In December,
1876, there were 134 British residents, 14 German, 31 Americans, 14
Danish, and 450 Chinese. Altogether, including a few of other nationalities,
numbering about 700 foreign residents. The exports consist of tea, silk,
coal, vegetable wax, gall nuts, copper, gold ; also various articles for the
Chinese market,

De sima, the historic site of the Dutch factory, projects into the harbour
on the S.W. side of the city, with which it is only connected by a stone
bridge. At the broad steps at its West end is the best place for landing at
the city. The Foreign Settlement is on the flat South of De sima, having a
water frontage of 730 yards ; it also stretches up the valley on the Owara
Creek on the South. The British Consulate is upon the bluff South of this
creek, where there is a good landing place. The American, French, and
Portuguese consulates are on the hills at the back of the settlement.

Provisions are plentiful, cheap, and easily obtained, as also is wood and
water ; the latter is brought off in boats to the shipping. There is a
Japanese government steam factory at Akunora, on the West side of the
harbour, and also a patent slip. The dnj dock, which was reported as com-
pleted in 1877, is 460 ft. in length, 89 ft. in breadth, and 28 ft. deep.

Coal is worked at several mines in the neighbourhood of Nagasaki, and,
although reported as of inferior quality, is used by vessels of the French,
United States, Russian and German navies, also by some of the fast tea ships
trading to London. The chief mine is at Taka sima, before described ,• there
is also a mine on Hi sima, which lies 3 miles S.W. from Taka sima. At
Miike, also, in the N.E. corner of Simabara Gulf, coal is worked.

The best anchorage for men of war is just above the British consulate bluff,
large ships anchoring in from 6 to 7 fathoms, rather over towards Minage
Point, at this the broadest part of the deep water of the harbour. Merchant
vessels usually anchor off the foreign settlement in from 4 to 6 fathoms, or
even above De sima in 3 fathoms. In the hot weather of July and August
great relief may be experienced from the closeness of the atmosphere, and
it will be beneficial to the health of the crews to spring the ship's broadside
to the sea breeze, which, in fine weather, is almost constant from the S.W.
and generally very fresh.

Pilots, either Japanese or European, can always be had at a charge of 30
dollars, obtained by requisition through the consul. It is said that they are
well acquainted with their business, and that it is their custom to take entire

1240 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

charge of the navigation of the ship ; but great caution should be used in this
respect, as some of them have only knowledge of particular localities.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Nagasaki, at 1^ 15". Springs
rise 9 ft., and neaps about 7^ ft., but they are variable. The current in the
harbour is always sluggish. A strong southerly wind is said to raise the level
at high water at springs from 10 to 12 ft., or 2 ft. above the ordinary level.

Directions. — "When making Nagasaki from S.W. or "West, steer to round
Sio-nal Head, the North end of Iwo sima, at a quarter of a mile, taking care
not to bring the light to bear northward of N.E. by N. (on which bearing
it is obscured) on approaching it. By keeping the light in sight, or during
the day, keeping the North point of Iwo sima bearing eastward of N.E. by N.,
will clear the shoal water off the dangerous Sotonohirase Rock. After
rounding the head, steer E. ^ S. for the Papenburg Bluff, passing it as
closely as convenient, but taking care to avoid the Barracouta Rock ; then
E.N.E. for the entrance. At night do not bring the light to bear northward
of W. I N.

Passing in mid-channel between Ogame and Megami Points, a N.E. course
direct for the Dutch flag on De sima will then lead up in the best water, and
when the factory of Akunora, on the West shore, opens of Minage Point,
N. by W., a large vessel should haul up N.N.E., and anchor in 6 fathoms
between it and the British consulate or foreign settlement.

Should a vessel, from calms or adverse winds, be unable to enter, every
endeavour should be made to get inside Papenburg, if it be the intention to
anchor, for outside this island the water is inconveniently deep, and it would
be preferable to stand off and on till daylight, taking care not to decrease the
soundings below 30 fathoms.

Anchorage can, however, be found in 20 to 26 fathoms over a bottom of
thick green oaze with fine sand, good holding ground, or possibly rock or
sand and shells if near the Hirase Rock. There is also anchorage East of
Papenburg and Kageno, in from 13 to 17 fathoms, or in 11 fathoms on a
bank S.W. of Megami Point ; the bottom here is mud, and the shelter good
except from West. Towards the eastern shore the ground is irregular, and
probably rocky.

Miye no TJra, with good anchorage at its head, is about 5 miles N. by E.
from Iwo sima light. It runs N.E. and S.W., is 2 miles deep, and the navi-
gator should be cautious, as it is much encumbered with dangers.

The Coast from Miye no ura takes a N.N.W. direction to the East Rock
(Kashe), with bold points and sandy beaches, and moderately elevated coast
range of hills, nearly all the points having off-lying rocks ; an isolated rock,
with deep water around, lies off the centre of a bay, 6 cables from the shore,
and N.W. h N. li mile from the outer low flat rock, off the northern point
of Miye no ura. Vessels creeping up in shore must be careful of this rock ;

DIRECTIONS FEOM NAGASAKI TO SIMONOSEKI. 1241

and nearly 2 miles S.E. ^ E. from Kashe (East Rock) are some rocks and
islets, 3 cables off the shore.

Mats' sima, a large and well-cultivated island, with coal mines, is 2 miles
long and 1 J mile broad. The whole of the channel between Mats' sima and
the main is much encumbered with reefs and obstacles.

DIRECTIONS from NAGASAKI to SIMONOSEKI.— The coast route is
taken by vessels who know the land, and in thick weather prefer to sight it,
and feel their way along from point to point ; they steer for the square rock
Kashe (East Rock), and pass between it and the arch rock Tengo, or rather
Hako sima, which is to the eastward of the arch rock, making for the South
coast of Mats' sima, the western coast of the last island being safe at 2
cables distance offshore, taking care of the rock above water off its N.W.
shore.

The western cape of Mikoto sima can be approached to 3 cables, and from
here, in clear weather, a course may be shaped to the westward of Kata sima,
up to Taka sima, passing eastward of Kuro sima, and thence along but out-
side of the islands which lie off the coast of Kiusiu, and forms the East side
of the Hirado Straits.

A more direct course from Nagasaki Harbour is to steer straight for Ko
tate (Bonnet Rock), but allowance must be made for the current which in
the vicinity of Oo tate, and to the southward sets N.W. and S.E., so that a
vessel in thick weather finds herself either to the westward and northward of
her reckoning, or to the eastward, and towards the main ; but, having sighted
the cone-shaped, easily-distinguished Ko tate (Bonnet Rock), she can steer
for the bold bluff of Kuro sima, bearing in mind that great danger the
Fuhushe, which lies North 4^ miles from Ko tate. This rock was marked by
a beacon, 38 ft. high, in 1876, but it had been partially destroyed in 1877.

The southern coast of Kuro eima is steep close-to, and the perpendicular
cliffs at its western end loom up in thick weather. The mariner, however,
must remember that off its western end, and separated by a passage of 2^
cables, is a low flat rock, above water, with deep water close to it. After
sighting the bluffs, vessels should steer for the South coast of Hirado, which
can be boldly approached to 1 or 2 cables, and by keeping it in sight at 2
cables distance, the Costa Rica and Rohinett Rocks will be avoided. Vessels
can run along the East coast of Hirado to the North as far as Kawatchi Bay,
when it is necessary to steer for the opposite shore, to avoid the Asama, before
entering the narrow part of Hirado Straits, at the red cliff point, from which
the vessel must be guided by the sailing directions (pp. 1242-3).

From Hirado or Spex Strait to the North there are no difficulties in clear
weather. A straight course for Mats' sima, passing eastward of Madara
sima, and giving the rocks off Hato saki a good berth. The conspicuous

I. A. 7 T

1242 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

cone islet of Yebosi, or its fixed hriijM light (elevated 182 ft.) at night, is a
good mark, which can be steered for, and a course shaped to go outside of
Wilson Island, taking care to look out for the Kuri no kami (Swain Eeef).

It was formerly recommended to vessels to pass eastward of Oogawa sima
(the eastern of three islands lying North of Hato saki), between that island
and Hirase Rocks, but a dangerous sunken rock having been discovered in
that passage in 1876, the best track from Hirado Strait, steering from it on
a N.E. I E. course, is to pass between Madara and Kagara, and rounding
the N.W. point of the latter at a mile ; from this a N.E. by E. ^ E. course
will lead up close to the West point of Wilson Island, passing half a mile to
the westward of Yebosi, between it and the rock off the Idzumi Islets.

Should the passage have been made by the Korea Strait, after rounding
the North point of Iki, an E. ^ N. course may be steered for the Siro simas,
at the entrance of the Inland Sea, passing well northward of Oro no sima
with a clear run of 55 miles. The tidal streams here are not very well
known.

Another route from NagasaTci is to steer for Oo tate, and take the clear chan-
nel between it and Yenoi sima, passing up the West coasts of Hirado and
Ikutski, and enter the Grenkai nada by the channel South of Iki sima. In
this route the rock South of the Idzumi Islets must be remembered.

If proceeding outside Hirado, after leaving Nagasaki steer N. W., unless
wishing to pass outside Hiki sima. A run of 16 miles will place a ship
abreast that island, and a further run of 13 miles on the same course will
lead up mid-channel between Oo tate and Yenoi sima, from which position a
N.N.W. course for 11 miles will reach the islets off the S.W. point of Hi-
rado. Pass a mile outside these islets, and also of the Aska sima, 3 miles
North of them, unless intending to take the Obree Channel, in which case
the ship may pass between Ko Azika sima and Kasira, and steer N.E. by N.
directly for it.

Coasting Hirado and Ikutski on a N.N.E. course, a run of 13^ miles from
Oo Azika sima will place a vessel off the North point of Ikutski ; then steer
N.E. by E. for 7 miles until past Use, the small rocky patch off the north-
western face of Atsusi no Osima, which, if not seen, may be cleared by keep-
ing the summit of Madara in line with the summit of Mats' sima E. ^ N.
Giving Use a berth of 1^ mile, a course E. by N. f N. leads up in mid-
channel between the rock lying to the southward of Kami Idzumi and Ye-
bosi, and when the latter island bears S.E., alter course N.E. by E. J E. to
clear Kuri no kami, and pass northward of Wilson Island, being careful lest
the eastern tidal stream into the Strait of Simonoseki, which sets rather
strongly through the channels East of Wilson Island, should saddle the
vessel on to that reef.

Entering Hirado Channel or Spex Strait from the North, vessels of light
draught use either passage, but the western, from being full of rocks and

NAGASAKI TO SBIONOSEKI STRAIT. 1243

uneven bottom, with the Vineta Rock to the S.W. 1 cable, and further, sub-
ject to much "Chow-chow" water and tidal whirls, is not recommended;
the eastern passage, although much narrower, is by far the safest.

The North end of Kuro-ko sima kept midway between the rock and the
wooded head of Ushi-ga no kubi (a point a little more than 2 cables South
of Hirose) leads clear through the passage, passing the rock at little more
than half a cable ; three-quarters of a cable outside the wooded point.

Vessels of heavy draught when passing through this passage at the springs,
when the strength of the tide is great, must remember the shoal patch of 15
feet, which extends 1^ cable to the north-eastward of Ushi-ga no ubi
Point. From the wooded point the Kiusiu shore should be kept at a cable's
distance while rounding to Red Cliff Point.

Due North, nearly 2 cables from Red Cliff Point is the Ootaske Rock, 5 ft.
above water, and E. by N. | N. from the latter, three-quarters of a cable, is
a sunken rock, having 15 ft. at low water springs; the precipitous fall from
the end of a flat-topped ridge on the Kiusiu shore kept open of the Red Cliff
Point will clear the sunken rock.

The Kiusiu shore must be kept on board until abreast Aosa saki, which is
If mile S.S.W. from Red Cliff' Point, where a course for the extreme South
end of Hirado (S.W. by S.) can be shaped, which clears the Asama Bank.

The East coast of Hirado can be kept at from 2 to 3 cables distance.

It has hitherto been the practice to pass down the western shore of Kiusiu
to the eastward of Kuro sima, &c., but from the numerous islands, rocks, and
outlying dangers off' that shore, and from the absence of prominent marks
for avoiding the James Rock, the above route is recommended ; there being
no danger along the Hirado East shore.

As soon as the Costa Rica Rock has been passed (which may be known
when the Kuro sima bluff' bears S.S.E., with the North Kareki open of the
South Kareki), a course can be shaped to pass between Mikoto and Ko tate
(Bonnet) ; this course passes 2 miles to the eastward of the Fukushe, taking
care to keep the peak of Sisiki on with or open to the eastward of Ho-age
(Sail Rock) until Kata bears East.

Vessels taking the outer passage from Simonoseki, and passing between
the Goto Islands and Hirado, can round the cone-shaped islet of Take sima
off the South end of Hirado, quite close, and to avoid the Fukushe, must
either take the direct route between the islands of Otate and Yenoi, or steer
for the Ho-age (Sail Rock), in order to run with it and Sisiki Peak in line
till Kata bears East.

Ancliorage. — Vessels passing through this strait will often find it convenient
to anchor. The places recommended are Kawatchi, on the East side of
Hirado, and Taske on the North side, or at Kamada on the Kiusiu shore,
immediately North of the entrance to the strait from the northward.

Vessels from the icentivard, bound for the Inland Sea, and finding bad weather

1244 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

coming on from the North or West, will find Gro no ura convenient and safe.
From the westward, steer for the South point of Hira sima (the outer or
southern island, which has a smooth top, with black clifiy and rocky shores),
giving it a berth of from 2 to 3 cables, then steering E. by N. for the next
low rocky islet, giving it a berth of half a mile ; haul up N. by E. ^ E., an-
choring near the head of the bay in 12 fathoms, remembering the low rock
on the port hand, just above water, when passing up the bay. From the
eastward vessels must remember, before making the South coast of Iki sima,
the 8-feet rock which lies to the southward of the Idzumi Islets, when they
can steer for Ka saki (the southern cape), from which the coast should not
be approached nearer than half a mile, to avoid the rock above water, and
the ledges farther to the northward.

The WEST COAST of NIPON is but little known, and should therefore
be navigated with necessary prudence and caution. The only parts at pre-
sent surveyed are the islands Sado, Awa sima, and Tabu sima, and the strait
between Sado and Niegata, by H.M. ships Adaon ox^A. Bone \n 1859. The
coast from Tsugar Strait to Cape Noto has been partially explored by the
Bittern and other of H.M. ships, the Russian gun vessel Djigit, and H.M,
surveying vessel Saracen. The latter vessel has also explored the coast be-
tween Simonoseki, the western entrance of the Inland Sea, and Taka yama
(Cape Louisa), lat. 34° 40' N.

Tsuno or Kado Sima and Lighthouse. — Tsuno sima is of peculiar forma-
tion, appearing from the northward as two very flat quoins. The lighthouse
a granite tower 100 ft. high, is placed on the N.W. point of the island.
From it is shown a flashing bright light, showing a flash every 10 seconds,
elevated 142 ft., and visible 18 miles ofi" seaward, between S. ^ E. and N.E.
by E., in which latter direction the light is intercepted by Square Eoek Pointy
which is 8 miles distant from the lighthouse.

Igama Bay has its entrance E.N.E. from the lighthouse. It has not been
explored, but the best anchorage seems to be in its N.W. corner, just within
the North entrance point.

Banh. — About 4f miles in a N.N.W. \ W. direction from the Tsuro sima
lighthouse is situated the tail of a bank, composed of broken shells, sand,
and stone, and having at this part a depth of 16 fathoms. In the winter,
during N.W. gales, a heavy sea runs on the bank, and many junks have
foundered there.

Mino Sima is in lat. 34° 47' N., long 131° T E., W. by N. f N. distant
20 miles from the northern coast of the province of Nagato. Approached
from the northward, at 9 miles distance, it appears much extended, with an
undulating outline, its highest part, elevated 492 ft., being in the centre of
its West side. A large square rock lies half a cable off its eastern point,
and there is an islet on its N.W. side.

CAPE EOIVEN OR NOTO. 1245

MiJcu ura, in lat. 35° 32' N., long. 133° 24' E., affords an excellent anchor-
age in 9 fathoms, mud ; shelter (except with winds from the East, which ara
of little consequence) can be obtained. Eocks are said to lie off the lagoon
opening on the South side.

The Oki Group, consisting of one large and a group of three smaller
islands, and a number of islets and rocks, lie N.E. and S.W. of each other,
and occupy an extent of 23 miles in that direction. There is an open and
apparently safe channel between the large islands and the group of smaller
ones. Oki sima, the N.E. or largest island, about 10 miles in diameter, was
estimated at 3,000 ft. elevation, but no indication of a port, nor even the
prospect of a tolerable anchorage was observed along its western shore.

Miyadsu, an excellent harbour, completely landlocked, with good holding
ground, situated in about lat. 35° 32' N., long. 135° 15' E., is easy of ingress
and egress, and free from dangers. The town contains about 12,000 inha-
bitants. Silk is manufactured in the neighbourhood, and this is a great mart
for dried fish. In entering with the southernmost of the Okino Islands,
bearing N.E. f E., steer S.W. | W. between Whale Point and Kata sima \
then steer S.W. f S. until at the mouth of the harbour, when steer direct
for the battery, keeping in mid-channel up to the anchorage. The soundings
from the mouth of the harbour will gradually decrease from 1 1 to 7 and 6
fathoms to abreast of the town, with bottom of sticky mud.

Tsuruga Bay, in about lat. 35° 40' N., long. 136° 1' 20" E., is very easy of
ingress and egress, and, so far as is known, free from rocks, excepting those
supposed to exist well in on the western shore. The town of Tsuruga, at
the head of the bay, contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and exports dried
fish and rice. Approaching Tsuruga Bay from the northward, steer so as ta
be distant 6 miles from the North end of Tamagawa when it is brought in
line with Ibo Point ; then steer SE. | S. until the triangular white cliff seen
to the left of the town is opened, when bring it to bear S. ^ E., and then
steer for it until the first prominent point on the left of the bay going in is
brought to boar E. by N. f N. ; then steer S. ^ W. to the anchorage.

Mikuni Bay.— The approach to Mikuni Roads, in about lat. 36° 13' N.,
long. 136° 8J' E., is bold to within half a mile from the shore, when the
soundings vary from 9 to 6 fathoms. The town of Mikuni is said to contain
10,000 inhabitants, and is situated on the right bank of a river. The an-
chorage in the outer roads is exposed from S.W. round West to North, but
completely sheltered from aU other winds. On Cape Sakiura, just northward
of Mikuni, a light is sometimes shown.

CAPE ROIVEN or NOTO, in lat. 37° 28' N., long. 137° 22' E., is elevated
about 700 or 800 ft., the land rising 1,200 to 2,000 ft. to the westward of it.
At 12 miles W. by S. from the cape is a remarkable white cliff, that shows
well to the westward. A reef, which dries, extends eastward 2 miles from

1246 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGa

the cape, with much uneven ground in the vicinity, and it is reported that a-
5-fathom patch lies at a distance of 3 miles.

A sunken ledge &f rocks, with only 3 ft. water, is said to exist between the
Astrolabe Rocks and Waisima, 2J miles from the latter place.

Aroostook Reef lies nearly N.N.W. f W., 10 miles from Cape E-oiven.
From the reef the northern Astrolabe Rock bears W. f S., and Isonosu Hill>
S.W. i W.

Yutsi Sima, in lat. 37° 50J' N., long. 136° 55' E., is 40 ft. high, about two-
thirds of a mile in diameter, level, and cultivated ; there are a few stunted
trees on it, and a small village on its southern side.

Nana Sima (Astrolabe Rock), in lat. 37° 35' N., long. 136° 54' E., is 200
feet high, about a quarter or a third of a mile in diameter, and is the largest
and highest of a group of five rocks, which extend nearly 1 J mile in a N.E.
and S.W. direction, and vary from 200 to 70 ft. in height.

Nanao Harbour, in lat. 37° 2' N., long. 136° 58' E., has two entrances^
caused by Noto-jima, an island about 3 miles long. The ciiy of Nanao is
situated in the extreme western angle of the bay. There are some iron-
works here.*

Toyama Bay. — Cape Roiven is the western point of entrance to this ex-
tensive bay, which is broadly open to the North and N.K The shores of
this bay appear populous, and at Fmhiki, in the centre of the head of the
bay, a fixed bright light is shown. Good anchorage will be found with this
light bearing S.S.W. % W., distant three-quarters of a mile.

At 15 miles S.W. \ W. from Niegata the low shore terminates at Kadota
yama head, 4^ miles North of a spur of the fine peaks of Yafiko yama, which
has the appearance of a blunt cone sloping on the West. A mile to the
South the peak of Kauriko yama rises to a higher elevation.

PORT KIEGATA.— The city of Niegata stands on the left bank of, for
Japan, a rather large river, with 4 fathoms water within the entrance ; but
a bar off the entrance seals it to vessels of greater draught that 7 or 8 feet
(7^ feet in 1877). In fresh breezes from seaward the sea breaks across the
entrance, and at that time not even a boat could cross the bar without risk.
The roadstead off the river's mouth is quite exposed, and the holding
ground bad.

Niegata, one of the ports open by treaty to foreign trade, is the most
opulent city on the West coast of Nipon. It is said to be more than four
times as large as Hakodate, and the population exceeds that comparison.
A small battery near the entrance to the river appeared to be unarmed.

The port of Niegata still (1877) remains unvisited by foreign ships. There
is no good harbour, which is much to be regretted, as it is the outlet of one

* The places on the coast between Nanao and Niegata are described by J. Troup, Esq.>
in the Journal of the Kojal Geographical Society, vol. xlii., 1872.

POET NIEGATA. 124T

of tlie most fertile districts of the country. Imports are mostly brought
overland from Yokohama. There is a temporary light-tower (1877) at the
mouth of the river.

Anchorage. — Although Niegata is opened to European trade, no vessel ex-
cept a powerful steamer could, during the autumn or winter months, remain
at anchor off that port, as before mentioned. Under these circumstances,
the most prudent course to adopt would be to anchor under shelter of Sado
Island, and have the cargo transported from Niegata in junks or light-
draught steamers.

Soundings reach to a considerable distance off the mainland in the vicinity
of Niegata ; vessels, therefore, running between Sado and Nipon at night,
or in a fog, should keep the lead quickly hove. Should soundings be ob-
tained and decrease gradually, the mainland is being approached. A run of
very deep water will be found on the Sado side of the channel.

The town of Aosima yama stands near the embouchure of a river, which
also has a clear channel carrying only 7 ft. It is said to be 6 miles N.E. of
Niegata, but is but half that distance according to the Japanese manuscript.

Tides. — For the distance of 4 miles a strong indraught, on the flood tide,
is experienced off the entrance of Niegata, greatly to the inconvenience of
sailing vessels seeking an oflB.ng. The ebb would, of course, assist them off
the land.

Sado Island, lying 25 miles westward of the important trading port of
Niegata, is 33| miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., nearly 17 at its widest part,
and is composed of two parallel mountain ranges lying N.W. and S.E. of
each other, the neck of land joining them being a plain, on the N.E. and
S.W. sides of which are formed two extensive open bays.

The b'^nd in the coast-line on the N.E. side of the island forms an exten-
sive bay called Minato-mats, which affords anchorage in from 12 to 16 fathoms,
sheltered from E. by S. (round South and West) to North. A conspicuous
rock, 60 ft. high, called Siza, marks Okawa Point, the South extreme of this
bay, in which no known dangers exist. At the head of the bay is the town
of Ilesso or Yehisu.

Another eligible anchorage will be found off Oda village, a quarter of a
mile S.S.W. of Matsu saki, a low projecting tongue of shingle, bearing
S.S.W. ^ W., distant lOJ miles from Okawa Point. The Adceon rode out a
heavy gale of wind here in 13 fathoms water.

The South part of the East coast possesses several coves and inlets in
which small craft will find excellent shelter, but there is no harbour of im-
portance on it.

Nearly every little valley has its stream of excellent water flowing down
to the beach, and when the sea is smooth easily obtainable. Coal is not
known.

1248 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

Awa Sima, th« N.E. extreme of which is in lat. 38° 29' 36" N., long. 139°
16' 7" E., is a narrow strip of land running N.N.E. and S.S.W., and reach-
ing at its southern extreme an elevation of 680 ft.

The S.E. side of the island is fringed with a narrow bank of soundings,
but is clear of rocks. Rocks are found off the West side of the island to the
distance of a quarter of a mile, and off the N.W. side to the distance of a
mile.

The hand-lead will afford but little warning to vessels approaching the
N.W. side of this island.

Tabu Sima (Observatory Rock, off the East extreme of which is in lat.
39° ir 53" N., long. 139° 34' 17" E.), is in shape somewhat of a horse-shoe,
with a club at its N.E. end. It is on top nearly a flat, varying from 120 to
150 ft. in height. Its greatest length is 1| miles N.E. and S.W. Except
on the S.E. side, the island is surrounded by detached rocks ; they all show,
and are in no instance more than three-quarters of a mile off shore-
Bittern Rocks. — This group of three small rocks, two above water and one
awash, was discovered by H.M.S. Bittern, 8th July, 1855. The south-
western or largest rock, in lat. 40° 31' N., long. 139° 31' E., and lying W. by
S. about 15 or 17 miles from Cape Yokoiso, is about 18 ft. high, and in size
and appearance resembles the hull of a vessel of about 200 tons.

TSUGAR STRAIT, separating Nipon from Yezo Island, is about 40 miles
in length in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and 9i miles wide at its nar-
rowest part.

Winds. — Strong N.W. winds prevail in this strait during the winter
months, accompanied by snow and rain, and the weather is very boisterous.
In April the wind hauls to the westward, with heavy squalls from the S.W.
In May the wind is from the southward, variable between S.W. and
S.E., or more easterly or westerly, and fine weather commences, lasting
until the middle of September when it becomes unsettled and summer
commences to break up with frequent gales; winter fairly setting in in
October.

Dense /o^s prevailed in May and June; after that period they are com-
paratively rare.

Current. — Through the middle of Tsugar Strait the current sets constantly
to the north-eastward, but its breadth varies considerably according to the
state of the wind and weather. The shores of the strait are subject to
tidal influence, the flood making to the eastward and the ebb to the west-
ward ; the velocity of the whole stream on the flood tide being thus consider-
ably augmented ; whilst on the ebb it is diminished.

Awomori Bay, a vast interior basin at the North end of Nipon, opens on
the South side of Tsugar Strait. The entrance is 5 miles wide, and with
high land on both sides. Off the salient part of the West point, some half-
tide rocks lie one cable from the shore.

TSUGAR STEAIT. 1249

The toivn of Awomori, in the S.W. part of the bay, stretches along the beach
for nearly a mile. It appears to have from 15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants. A
great quantity of rice is exported to Yezo. This anchorage is open to the
North ; the soundings decrease gradually, and 9 fathoms will be found at 2
cables from the shore, with good holding ground. A considerable river flows
into the sea East of the town, but its entrance is blocked by a bar, the outer
edge of which projects If cables.

K fixed red light is shown at Awomori from a pole placed 100 ft. from high
water mark in the front of the town.

Toriwi Saki, the most northern point of Nipon, lies 26 miles W. by N. ^
N. from Siriya Saki, which with its lighthouse is described on page 1199.
Toriwi saki is a low tapering point, off which, at the distance of a cable, is
Zow Islet or Omasahi sima, 40 ft. high. The ground all around this cape and
islet is very foul, except to the N.E., where a vessel may anchor to wait tide
in 13 fathoms, with the centre of the islet bearing S.W. by S. distant about
a mile. This is a useful anchorage for vessels approaching Hakodate from
the eastward, particularly during the light south-westerly winds common to
the strait during the summer months. There is a tide race, near the full
and change of the moon, 3 miles North of Low Islet, and heavy overfalls
with a N.E. swell. On such occasions care must be taken to avoid this lo-
cality. There is no clear channel for large ships between the race and the
islet.

Singapore Hock, with 6 ft. on it at low water springs, lies N. by E. | E.,
2i miles from the centre of Low Island, and is at the extremity of a sunken
ledge, with from 6 to 17 fathoms on it, connecting this rock with Low Island,
excepting in which directions the soundings round it vary from 13 to 21
fathoms. This rock is surrounded to a considerable distance by the most con-
spicuous of the overfalls existing in the vicinity, all of which should be
carefully avoided.

NORTH SHORE.— Cape Sirakami (Nadiejda), the North point of western
entrance to Tsugar Strait, is a high bluff similar to Cape Siwokubi, but not
so safe of approach. The coast, for more than a mile on each side of the
cape, is bordered with numerous rocks, generally above water, some of which
extend nearly 2 cables from the shore. As it is not known whether the
dangers extend under water beyond this distance, it will be prudent to give
the cape a good berth in passing.

Cape Tsiuka, at 12^ miles N.E. by E. from Cape Sirakami, is a high cliffy
point, which may be further known by three rocks extending a quarter of a
mile from a point one mile north-eastward of it ; the outer rock of the three
is of a conical form, and 70 ft. high.

Vessels can anchor in the bight of the bay, between Capes Tsiuka and
Sirakami; but as a southerly wind on the western tide sends in a cross
I. A. 7 u

12.50 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGO.

swell, it would not be prudent to anchor far in. The best position is in
from 15 to 20 fathoms, with the southern white cliff bearing West about
one mile.

HAKODADI HARBOUR, or more properly Hakodate, on the North side
of Tsugar Strait, is situated at the foot of the northern slope of a high
peninsula which is connected with the mainland of Yezo by a low sandy
isthmus. It is an excellent roadstead 4 miles wide and 5 miles deep, and for
accessibility and safety is one of the finest in the world. Its entrance is
between Hakodadi Head and Mussell Point, which bear East and West of
each other, distant 4f miles. The harbour is in the south-eastern arm of
the bay, and is completely sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent
holding ground, the best anchorage being over a depth of 5 fathoms, black
mud, in a line with the avenue leading to the governor's house. The town
of Hakodate stands on the N.E. slope of the promontory, facing the harbour,
and in 1854 contained about 6,000 inhabitants. Hakodate exports herring
oil ; bear, river and sea otter, and deer skins, antlers, and edible seaweed in
large quantities ; and large junks of from 200 to 300 tons visit the harbour
engaged in this trade. There is telegraphic communication between Hako-
date and the other Japanese ports.

A lightvessel painted red, with two masts carrying a ball at the foremost
head and exhibiting a fixed bright light, elevated 36 feet above the sea, is
moored in 7^ fathoms (at low water spring tides) off the most northern point
of the spit, which runs out from Point Anama, the N.W. point of the town,
with the mouth of Kamida Creek bearing E, by S. J S., and White Bluff
S. by W.

Vessels of large draught entering the harbour should pass North of the
lightvessel, as there is a bank of stones directly South of her.

At 2 J cables South from the vessel is a triangular floating beacon moored in
5^ fathoms. The passage between the lightvessel and the beacon may be
taken by vessels drawing less than 18 ft. water.

South of the beacon the bottom is composed of large stones, and is very
irregular. The banks on the East side of this bay must be avoided, that
extend half a mile from the shore. A vessel can moor at half a mile from the
shore in 51 fathoms mud, good holding ground. In less than that the
bottom is gravel, and anchors hold badly.

JFater can be obtained, likewise coal and wood for steaming purposes.
There is a brass and iron foundry on a limited scale. Vessels, even when
seriously damaged, can undergo repairs in the harbour.

Pilots. — Vessels entering the bay are boarded by pilots, who charge five
Mexican dollars, without any distinction as to the size of the ship. There
are no special harbour regulations.

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in this harbour, at 5*"., and the
extreme rise and fall of tide is 3 feet.

TSUGAR STRAIT. 1251

Directions. — Entering Hakodate Harbour, after rounding Hakodate Head,
and giving it a berth of a mile to avoid the calms under the high land, steer
for the sharp peak of Komaga-daki, bearing about North, until the eastern
peak of the Saddle Mountain, bearing about N.E. by N., opens to the west-
ward of the round knob on the side of the mountain, then haul up to the
northward and eastward, keeping them well open until the centre of the
sand hills on the isthmus bears S.E. by E. | E. (these may be recognised
by dark knolls upon them). This will clear the spit which runs in aN.N.W.
direction two-thirds of a mile from Anama saki, the north-western point of
the town. Round the lightvessel, passing northward of her, and anchor as
convenient in from 6 to 8 fathoms, taking care to keep the lightvessel bear-
ing westward of N.W. to avoid the shoal bank off the town. Should the
lightvessel be removed, then bring the sand hills a point on the port bow,
and stand in until the above point of the town bears S.W. ^ W., when the
vessel will be in the best berth, in 5^ or 6 fathoms water. The upper part
of the harbour is generally crowded with small vessels.

At night bring the light to bear N.E. | N., and steer for it on that
bearing, taking care not to bring it to bear North of that bearing. Round
it as before directed, and anchor as convenient. Should the light be re-
moved steer a northerly course on entering Hakadodi Bay to a depth of 7
fathoms, and keeping in that depth on an easterly and south-easterly course
the spit will be safely rounded.

Should the wind fall before reaching the harbour, there is good anchor-
age in the bay, in from 25 to 10 fathoms water.

Cape Siwokubi bears E. by S. 12 miles from Hakodadi Head, and N. by E.
f E. 95 miles from Low Islet on the Nipon shore ; this is the narrowest part
the Strait of Tsugar. This cape is steep-to, and the N.E. current frequently
runs with greater strength close to the rocks than out in the stream. The
summit of the bluff immediately above the cape is 1,022 ft. high.

Cape Yesan, the North point of eastern entrance to Tsugar Strait, is the
East extreme of a bold promontory, with several remarkable dome-shaped
mountains in the rear. The cape itself is a steep cliff about 600 feet high ;
the volcano immediately above it is 1,935 ft. high, and frequently capped with
a light cloud of steam, and a jet of steam is constantly seen issuing from a
hollow on the West side of the hiU, but it is not otherwise active.

At 2^ miles E. f S. from Cape Siwokubi is Conical Islet, 200 ft. high, lying
close to the coast.

DIRECTIONS.— Sailing vessels approaching Tsugar Strait from the west-
ward during foggy weather should guard against being carried by the current
to the northward past the entrance. Should the weather be clear when nearing
Cape Yokoiso, it may be as well to sight it ; but if doubtful, shape a course
(allowing for the probable current) direct for Oho saki. Should a fog come
on suddenly when nearing this cape, recollect that the coast is clear and

1252 THE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO.

sandy, and the soundings are regular to the southward, but rocky with ir-
regular soundings to the northward of it. The cape is steep-to, and standing
out prominently from the coast line, forms a good landmark.

No particular directions are required in passing through the strait from
the westward, the only dangers being those off Toriwi saki above described,
and the Rattler Rock off Siriya saki, and the north-easterly current will
always be found strongest in the middle of the stream. After passing Tat-
supi saki, if the weather is thick, and the vessel bound to Hakodate, endea-
vour to make Cape Tsiuka, and proceed from thence to Musseil Point ; or
giving Cape Tsiuka a berth, feel the way by the lead into the bay, between
it and Cape Saraki, and anchor till the weather clears.

Approaching the strait from the eastward, steer for Siriya saki, and
endeavour to make it on a N.W. bearing. Pass the cape at not less than
2 miles distance, then haul in to avoid the current and to anchor should it
fall calm. In this case, by keeping this shore close aboard, the vessel may
probably be drifted up to Low Islet, off Toriwi saki,^ by the western
stream, when the N.E. current is running like a mill stream in mid-channeL

At the anchorage off Low Islet the vessel must wait a favourable oppor-
tunity for crossing the strait. During the summer months the winds are
generally light from the S.W. for a considerable period ; the wind, however,
generally freshens a little when the western stream makes, and this is the
right time to weigh. Pass about half a mile from Low Islet, between it
and the Singapore Rock, and in crossing the current take care not to be set
to leeward of Hakodate. If proceeding straight to Hakodate from the east-
ward, the better course is to cross the strait, and passing about 5 miles off
Siriya saki make for Cape Yesan, so as to take advantage of the eold west-
erly set along the South shore of Yezo.

Proceeding from Hakodate to the westward against S.W. winds, keep well
inside Cape Tsiuka, and if unable to round it, anchor with the stream or
kedge about 2 miles to the N.E., weighing again when the next western
tide makes. Should the wind be very light, a vessel may not clear the strait
in one tide ; in this case it will be better to wait a tide to the eastward of
Cape Sirakami, and take the whole of the following tide to clear the strait,
thau run any risk of being swept into the strait again by the current. Ves-
sels passing through the strait, particularly to the westward, should have a
good kedge and 150 fathoms of hawser ready for immediate use, and must
keep the land close on board.

Tides. — The tide in the stream runs about 12 hours each way near the
full and change of the moon, and there are two regular tides by the shore
in 24 hours. At full and change the flood or eastern stream makes at Tat-
supi saki at 6^ 30" a.m., at 1^ 0"' at Cape Tsiuka, and at 7'' 30"" at Toriwi
saki. The western stream begins about 12 hours later. The turn of the
stream takes place li hours later every day. With heavy S.W. gales the

YEZO ISLAND. 1253

north-easterlj current swells and fills the strait, attaining- a velocity of from
5 to 6 knots an hour, and entirely overcomes the ebb tide.

YEZO ISLAND — The coast line of Yezo is about 1,000 miles in extent^
and its eastern shore appears low from seaward, resembling table- land ; its
appearance is, however, most deceptive, as the country is a repetition of
abrupt hills of a uniform height, interspersed with deep valleys, rivers,
swamps, and large lagoons.

The western coast is bold, and ranges of lofty mountains, many of the
summits of which are extinct volcanoes, rise in every direction. The highest
of these, Shubets, a cone-shaped mountain 30 miles inland, is an active vol-
cano, and from its size and grandeur may well be considered by the Japanese
as the Fusi yama of Yezo.

The island is almost entirely covered with wood, the ground being in-
many places strewn with the trunks of trees in all stages of decay, and
covered with moss, lichen, and rank vegetation ; and the coarse bamboo
grass is found in some places growing to a height of 1 5 ft.

There are numerous rivers and streams, the largest of which, the IsJcarri,
is on the West coast, and three or four large lakes are said to exist in the
interior. Coal is found in several places, but is principally procured from
the village of Kamami, near Iwani, on the West coast. Sulphur abounds,
and sulphur springs are numerous.

Yezo is a conquest and colony of Japan, and small settlements of emi-
grants from the South, and of natives are found scattered along the shores.
The Ainos or aborigines of Yezo are a race of stunted growth, and are
grossly ignorant, wretchedly poor, and filthy both in person and habits ;
unlike the Japanese, they allow their hair and beards to grow to a great
length. They appear to be of a diff'erent race to the Japanese.

Little or no agriculture is carried on, both Japanese and Ainos principally
subsisting on the produce of the ocean. Salmon and herring fishing on a
large scale is their principal occupation, and large quantities of seaweed are
collected, dried in the sun, and sent South, finding its way into all parts of
Japan and China.

" Want of harbours, or even anchorages, is the great drawback to Yezo.
The extent of coast line is about 1000 miles, and along the whole of that
distance there are only Hakodadi and Endermo on the S.W., and Akishi on
the S.E., that can be called harbours. Hamanaka is an anchorage, Nemoro
is but an anchorage, and from Nemoro to Otarunai, a distance of 420 miles,
there is nothing in the shape of a harbour. A vessel may anchor at one or
two places, provided the wind is off shore ; under such circumstances little
could be done in the way of exportation should the island become of any im-
portance.

Otarunai is at all times safe, and might be made an excellent harbour.

1254 THE JAPANESE AECHIPELAGQ.

There is no place between Otarunai and Hakodadi which can be used as an
anchorage, except Sutsini and Rogers Island, and there only under favour-
able circumstances. Considering Otarunai as a harbour, there are then four
along the 1000 miles of coast line, namely, Hakodadi, Endermo (in Volcano
Bay), Akishi, and Otarunai ; and three anchorages possessing good shelter
— these are Hamanaka, Nemoro, and Sutsini.

None of the places I visited in the East had ever seen European vessels
even pass the coast, except some years ago, when a vessel went once or twice
to Nisibets, and a steamer passed into the Straits of Yezo, and proceeded to
Nemoro ; the Sylvia is the first man-of-war, and almost the first ship, that
has been round Yezo." — (Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Society, vol.
xlii., 1872, Notes on the East^ N.E., West Coasts of Yezo. — Commander
H. C. St. John, R.N.

In the same volume will be found a long and interesting description of a
journey made nearly around the coast of the island by Captain T. Blakiston^
F.R.G.S.

With this we shall close the description of Japan. A description of tha
coasts to the northward will be found in the North Pacific Directory.

APPENDIX.

NAMES, MONEY, WEIGHTS, MEASUEES.

Geographic Terms.

There is not a more vexed question than the proper mode of representing the sounds
of an Oriental language by our European alphabet. Though every language has
much in common, there are still those great and important diflferences in the value
of different letters or syllables, that each language, or even dialect, would require a
separate alphabetic system, and a great variety of independent letters, or combina-
tions of letters, to represent the specific peculiarities of each. If it be difficult, or
impossible, to represent the various local pronunciations of our own tongue, the
different way in which many words composed of the same letters would be uttered by
a native of Devonshire, Northumberland, or Lanarkshire, how difficult or impossible
it will be to carry such a system into a tongue of a totally different construction.

But there would be a limit to some of this confusion, if it were agreed as to what
should be a common value for the European alphabet. Formerly every one repre-
sented the names of places, difficult to describe the sound of, in that mode which seemed
best to him, without heeding what value those of any other nation would give to bia
orthography. The confusion thus arising is nowhere more evident than in the
countries described in this work, where no written language similar to our own
exists.

As has been before remarked, certain values should be given to every letter, and
this system is now generally adopted by modern writers ; and, as far as practicable,
has been followed in this work. Briefly, the system is this, that all the consonants
are to be pronounced as in English, French, &c., and the vowels as in Italian, i as ee,
and u as oo, or ou in French. In the vocabularies of the names which are given for
each principal language hereafter this system is followed.

1256

APPENDIX.

MALAY, SINGAPORE, ETC.
Malay Vocabulary.

Malay.

EliGLISlt.

Malay.

Ejtglish.

Ainas - . »

Gold.

Gajab, gajah mina -

Elephant, whale.

Anak, anak ayer -

Child, rivulet.

Gosong - . -

Shoal, sand-bank.

Ang-in . - -

Wind.

Gunong - - -

Mountain.

„ durat -

Land wind.

„ api -

Volcano.

„ laut

Sea breeze.

Api . - .

Fire.

Jambatan, palamban

Bridge.

Arang - • -

Cbarcoal, coal (?).

Jurang, churang

Creek.

Ayer ...

Water, river.

Kalang-an

Dry dock.

„ baku

Ice, hail.

Kampong

Enclosure, village.

„ dang kal

Shallow water, ford.

Kamudi

Rudder, helm.

„ masin

Salt water.

Kapal - - -

Ship.

„ sung-ei -

Rain water.

Karang • - -

Coral reef.

„ tawar -

Fresh water.

Karra - - -

Monkey, ape.

Karsik - - -

Gravel, sand.

Banchah

Marsh, morass.

Kayu, kayu api

Wood, firewood.

Barat, barat tapat -

West.

Kilat -

Lightning.

„ daya -

South-west.

Korong - - -

Cabin, poop.

„ laut

North-west.

Kota

Fort, castle, tower.

Batang . - -

River.

Kuda . . .

Horse.

Batu

Rock, stone.

Kuku - - -

Fluke of an anchor.

„ barani -

Loadstone.

Kuning ...

YeUow.

„ Bedil -

Gun, musket.

Kwala - - -

Mouth of river.

Belantara

Forest, desert.

Bender - • ^

Port for trade.

Labuh-an

Anchorage, harbour.

Bengkok, Bungkok-

Crooked, humped.

Lama - . -

Former, old, ancient.

Besar - - -

Large, great.

Lampong

Buoy.

Besi

Iron.

Lang-it - - -

Sky, beavens, roof.

Beting - - -

Sand-bank.

Lang-kong

Arch, crescent.

Biduk - - -

Boat, Great bear.

Lapong . - -

Gap, wide.

Bintang . - -

Star.

Laut, laut besar

Sea, the ocean.

„ kutab

Pole-star.

„ salatan -

Southern ocean.

Bras, nasi, imei

Rice, boiled rice.

Layen - - -

Sail.

Buah '

Fruit.

Lembah - - -

Valley.

Buaya - - -

Alligator, crocodile.

Lichah, Lumpun -

Mud.

Bukit •

Hill.

Lima, lima-blas

Five, fifteen.

Bolan, bulan bharu

Moon, new moon.

Lubok . - -

Bight or recess.

„ purmana

Full moon,

Bulub -

Bamboo.

Mata . . -

Points of the com-

Burong - - -

Bird.

pass.

Merah - - -

Red.

Damie - « -

Peace.

Danau, tasek -

Lake, small lake.

Nang-ka

Jack Fruit.

Dapur - - -

Cooking place.

Negri - - -

City, town, country.

Datu, datuk -

Chief of a tribe.

Da-un, daban-

Leaf, bough.

Padang - - -

Plain, open space.

Dayong - - -

Oar, paddle, to row.

Padi

Rice in the husk.

Padoman

Mariner's compass.

Etam . - -

Black.

Pahak, lembah

Valley.

Pakau, pasar •

Market place, ba-

Gading - - -

Ivory.

zaar.

Gadong, godong

House.

Palamban

Bridge.

APPENDIX.

1257

Mala*.

English.

Malat.

English.

Panjang

Long, tall.

Salat, sellat -

Strait of the pea.

Pinchuran, trusaa -

Channel, passage.

Salatan - . •

South.

Pasang ...

Tide.

„ daya -

South-south-west.

., besar -

Spring tide.

Sampan

Canoe, small boat.

„ kadang

High w iter.

Sap.ih, sippah

Quid of Betel.

„ kring -

Low water.

Sudagan (Ar.)

Merchant trader.

Paya, rawah -

Marsh.

Sung-ei - - -

River.

Pendek, korang

Short, wanting.

Pikul .

Weight of 133 Iba.

Tambaga

Copper.

Pinang ...

Bettl nut.

Tambang

Mine.

Pisang - . -

Plaintain, banana.

Tanah, benua

Land, country, earth

Ponchak, kaman-

Tanda -

Beacon.

chak - - -

Peak of a hill.

Tanjong, tapat

Cape, point, cliff.

Prigi

Well.

Tasek -

Inland sea, lake.

Pulau, Pulo -

Island.

Teluk -

Bay.

Putih -

White.

Timor - - .

East.

„ laut

North-east.

Rachun - - .

Poison

„ tung-ara

South-east.

Eakil -

Raft.

Eantau - - -

Plain, flat sea coast.

Ubat bedel -

Gunpowder.

Eata

Flat, level, low.

Ujong tanah -

Promontory.

Rawang, rawah

Swamp, marsh.

Utara -

North.

Eumah chukei

Custom-house.

Utan, rimba -

Forest.

Rumpak

Pirate.

,, timor

North-east.

„ sa-mata timor

North-north-east.

Sakat -

Bar, barrier.

„ barat-laut

North-north-west.

Money.

The silver coin in general use in Singapore, Penang, and Malacca are the rupee and
dollar. Foreign monies, also, are freely used, especially the Mexican and Spanish
dollar. All government accounts are kept in £ s. d. The metallic value of the
rupee of course depends on the market price of silver. In 1872 it was Is. ll|d. ; in
1874-5, Is. lOd. ; in 1875-6, Is. 10|d.; and in 1876-7, Is. 9|d.

12 pies .... ::z 1 annum .... zz l|d. 1 cent .... =r |d.

16 annas .. 1 rupee 2s. (nom.) 100 cents = 1 dollar .. 4s. 3d,

100 rupees .... = 46| dollars.

100 dollars .... 214 rupees, 1 anna, 5 pies.

The same denominations for moneys, weights, and measures prevail, with variations
throughout most of the Malay States.

The word picul is the Malay vrord pikul, which, like the Chinese word tan, means a load
or burden carried on the back. Mace and tuel are derived, through the Malayan and
Javanese mas and tail, from the Hindu Masha and tola. Cash is from caixa, the Mooiish
name of the tin coin found by the Portuguese at Malacca in 1.511. Catty ot kati is the
Malayan pound, and candareen or kondrin is also Malay. Fice is the Javanese vfoi^ pivhis.

Weights.

The commercial weights in use between Europeans and natives are the Chinese
picnl, catty, and tael. A little discrepancy exists in the weight of the picul and
LA. 7 X

1258

APPENDIX.

catty in some places ; and there is a distinction between the Chinese and Malay picul ;
the latter is equal at Penang to 142| lbs. avoirdupois, and is only used to weigh tin
and pepper. This discrepancy arises from the use of the hahr, which varies consider-
ably in weight, and is divided into 3 Malay piculs ; the bahr is equal at Penang to
421 catties. By the Malay picul, goods are purchased from the native vessels; but
they are re-sold by the Chinese pical. By the coyan, of 50 Chinese piculs, grain and
salt are sold ; a bag of salt weighs 100 lbs. avoirdupois; but one of grain or rice
weio-hs 164 lb?. The coyan at Penang is a measure; 45 piculs of rice, or 43 of salt,
make a measurement coyan.

The Chinese dotchin is commonly met with ; hut among merchants English weights
and scales are generally used ; and, in fact, wherever Europeans have colonized or
settled in Malaysca, they have fixed the imperfect native measures and weights,
as thereby making them the standard, or by supplanting them with their own.

Gold dust is weighed by the hunkal, equal to 2 dollars or 832 grains, troy, which
is divided into 16 iniams of 12 sagas each ; a catty of gold is lf| of the common catty.
In the towns on the eastern side of the peninsula the bunkal and catty are found to
be about 10 per cent, less than these. Pulse, dholl, and rice from Bengal are sold by
the bag of -2 bazar maunds, or I643 lbs. Piece goods are sold by the corge of 20
pieces, and Java tobacco by the corge of 20 baskets.

At Malacca the picul weighs 135 lbs. avoirdupois; and 3 piculs, or a bahr, 428 lbs.
avoirdupois.

Measures.

The measure of length frequently used by the Malays and other natives is the
hasta or cubit, equal to 18 English inches ; but among the Chinese, as well as Euro-
peans, the English yard is always used.

The chief measui'e of capacity for grain and oil is the gantang, divided into 4
chupals, each about 2\ lbs. avoii'dupois ; the gantang is equal to 271*65 cubic inches,
or \\ gallon ; 10 gantangs make one^jora^, -which is merely a nominal measure; and
80 parahs of rice make 1 picul ; 800 gantangs are counted to a cayan, about 2 tons
7 cwt.

SIAM.

Siamese Terms.

Used in

the

Chai

rts and Sailing Directions.

Siamese.

English

Siame.se.

English.

Bang

- Village.

Fai -

Fire, light.

Bon

- Upper.

Burl

- City.

Hin

Hatsai ...

Rock, stone.
Sandbank.

Dam

- Black.

Deng

- Eed.

Khao

Mountain, hill.

Din niau

- Clay.

Khao or Khaao

White.

Din-so-phong -

- Chalk.

Kblon . . -

Mud.

APPENDIX.

12.

Siamese.

English.

Siamese.

English.

Klong

• Canal or creek.

Pa - -

- Forest.

Koh

- Island.

Pak

- Mouth.

Kok

- Olives.

Pak-nam -
Pom

- Mouth of a river.

- Fort.

Lem

- Point, promontory.

Lang-tao

- Bar (of a river).

Rong-pa-si

- Custom-house.

Lat

- A cut, short cut.

Sai -

- Sand, gravel.

Mai

- New.

Sao-thong

- Flag-staff.

Me-nam -

- River.

Muang

- Town.

Tha-leh -
Thai

- Sea, lake.

- Siamese.

Nam

- Water, or tide.

Thit nua -

- North.

Nam-khun

- Rising tide.

Thittai -

- South.

Nam-o

,, beginning of.

Thit tawan-ok -

- East.

Nam-tem-khraye

- . Full tide.

Thit tawan-tok

- West.

Nam-long

- Ebbing tide.

Thi-thot-samo -

- Anchorage.

Nei

- In.

Noi

- Little, or less.

Wat

- Temple.

Nok

- Out.

Nei-qna -

- Inner.

Yot

- Peak.

Koi-qua -

- Lesser.

Yai

- Great,

Nok-qua -

- Outer,

Yai-qua -

- Greater.

Money.

200 to 450 Cowries or Bier -
4 P'hai-nungs - - -
2 Fuangs - - - -
4 Salungs or Miam -
4 Ticals - - - -
20 Tamlungs

lOO Chungs or Catties -
2 Dollars (Spanish) -

- := 1 P'hai-nung - - - = \^i.

1 Fuang ... - 3fd.

I Salung or Miam - - 7|d.

1 Tical or Bat (silver) - 2s. 6d.

1 Tamlung - - - IDs. Od.

1 Catty or Chang - - £10.

1 P.cul ... - £1,000.
5 Ticals.

Measures of Length.

The niu is supposed to be equal in length to 8 grains of husked rice ; the kup or
keub to measure from the end of the thumb to the end of the middle finger ; and th®
sok fi-om the end of the middle finger to the elbow.

Inches.

Metres.

1 niu

= ft :

= -20637

12 niu

- :^ 1 kup or keub -

•24764

2 kup

1 sok

•49528

2 sok

1 ken

•99056

2 ken

1 wa or voua -

78
yards.

1-98112

20 wa -

1 sen

39-62-244

miles.

kilometres.

100 sen -

1 roeneng

2-462119

3-962244

4 rbeneng -

1 yola

9 -848477

15.848976

1260

APPENDIX.

Capacity.

Pint.

Litres.

1 tanan -

- = ^

gallons.

= -8619

20 tanans -

- =

1 tang

3-75

17-038076

25 tanans or

tang

1 sat

4-6876

21-297596

80 sats or

hectolitres.

100 tang -

1 coyan -

376

1-7038076

Weights.

Troy Grains.

Grammes.

1 tical -

- r="233i =

1511975

4 ticals

- =: 1 tael

933i

60-479

lbs. av.

■ kilogrammes.

20 taels

1 catty -

1-20958

50 catties

1 picul -

1331

60-479

The Coyan is a weight which is usually reckoned equal to 20 piculs, but it raritw
from 18 to 22 piculs. The coyan of paddy (rice in the husk) is reckoned at about
16| piculs, and is considered equal to 2133| lbs. av.*

COCHIN CHINA (ANAM.)

Money.

'• The every-day money of the country is cash of the Chinese pattern, though bar
silver, cast in pieces weighing ten taels each, is also made use of by merchants.
Lumps -weighing a tael, with Chinese characters on them, as also round silver coin*
of Chinese origin, are occasionally seen, both finding their way down from Yunnan.
Gold is not used as money. The cash are, in one respect, singular, being made of
zinc, or what seems like a mixture of lead and sand, and so fragile as to be easily
broken between the finger and thumb ; 6Q cash make one chek, 10 chek make one
koon, or ' ligature,' as the French name it ; 5 koons, on an average, go to the dollar,
but the exchange varies daily. On April 14th, 1876, the exchange was 3,300 cash,
or 5 koon 5 chek per dollar ; while at Hue, the capital of Annam, the dollar had
been commanding 7 koon and over. At Hai-phong, foreign silver coins of any de-
nomination are readily taken." — (N. B, Dennys, Ph. D.)

Accounts are commonly kept in qttan, ma?, and sapeks, as follows : —

1 sapek, or dong, or cash z= -fgd.

60 sapeks zz 1 mas, or mottien, or heap 3Jd.

10 mas 1 quan, or string 28. 9id.

• The Merchants' Handbook of Money, Weights, and Measures of all Nations. By W.
A. Bro-wne, LL.D. London; Edward Stanford, 6, Charing Cross.

APPENDIX.

1261

Measures of Length,

Inchea.

Metres.

1 ly - - -

r= -0192

= -00048

10 ly

- =r 1 phau . - -

•192

•00487

10 phau -

1 tac

1-92

•04876

10 tac -

1 thuoc or cubit

19-2
feet.

•48766

6 thuoc

1 ngu -

2-43835

10 thuoc

1 truon - - -

yards.

4-87670

3 ngu -

1 sao ...

7-31.506

3 truons

1 chai vai or that -

14-63012

10 sad

1 mao - - -

73 15064

10 chai vai

1 quo - - _

160

146-30128

The thuoc, which is the chief unit of measures of length, varies considerably in
different places ; thus there are six different values assigned to it, varying from IS'
to 2of English inches, or from •38098 to -656209 metre, but the thuoc, the value of
■which is given in the Table, is the one in general use. The drapers' thuoc is a little
longer, being equal to 25a inches ; the tac to 2J inches ; the phan to •256 ; and the
ly to 0256 inch English.

Distances

Yards.

Metres.

1 li or mile

- = 486

— 444-390138

2 U - - :

= 1 dam -

972
miles.

888-780276
kilometres.

6 dam -

1 league

2-761

4-4439

Square

Measures.

Square yards.

Square metres,

9 gqr. ngu - :

— 1 sqr. pao

- = 64

=z 53-510208
Ares.

100 sqr. sao

1 sqr. mao

6400

O3-510203

Weights

Troy Grains.

Grammes.

10 ai - - =:

z 1 tran -

- =

•000006 =

: -0000003

10 tran

1 buy -

-000060

-0001)038

10 buy

1 chau -

•000601

•0000389

10 chau

1 hot -

-006015

-0003898

10 hot -

1 hao -

•060156

'0038981

10 hao -

1 li

•601563

-0389806

10 li -

1 phan -

6-015625

•3898061

10 phan

1 dong -

60-15625

3-8980605

10 dong

1 luong

601-5625

38-9806056

10 luODg

1 nen -

6015-625
lbs. av.

389806056

10 luong

1 can -

623-68969
kilogrammes.

10 can -

1 yen -

13f

6-23689

6 yen -

1 binah

68|

31-18484

10 yen -

1 ta

1374

62-36896

6 ta -

1 quan -

687 i

311 8U8i

1262 APPENDIX.

. Measures of Capacity for Grain.

Imperial Gallons. Litres.

1 hao - - . =: 6f ZI 28-270586

Zhao - =: 1 shita or tao - 12| 56-541172

" The weights and measures in use for commercial purposes are Chinese, and bear
Chinese names, differing from the Canton standard only in being heavier. The leonff,
or ounce, weighs about IJ ounce English, and the catty, 1 lb. 6 ozs. 10 grs. There
are several differing standards of length. The ell used for measuring piece goods is
25 i inches. It is in fact necessary in buying articles of any description to agree
beforehand as to the length or weight of the denomination used. This especially
applies to grain and similar products." — (N. B. Dennys, Ph. D.)

NETHERLANDS' INDIA.

Money.

The monetary system of Netherlands' India has of late years been assimilated to
that of Holland. The silver standard is the Netherlands ^j«7t?er, or ^ori'n, which i»
divided into 100 centen.

1 Cent = id.

100 Cents = 1 Guilder or Florin rr Is. 8d.

The gold coinage in Holland was suppressed by law in 1850. and has not since been
re-established. It consisted of the 10 (^wWew and 5 gulden pieces. These are some-
times met with, but they are not a legal tender ; their price rises and falls with the
fluctuation of the market. The average price of the 10 gulden piece is about 9>
guldens and 65 cents, and that of the 5 gulden piece about 4 gulden and 82 cents.

The silver coins are the 2^ gulden jnece (sometimes called rixdollar), the florin or
guilder, and the \ florin. These are of the fineness of ^Sg^gths, and the florin weighs
866.17 grains troy. There are also in silver of a lower standard the 25, 10, and 5
cent pieces. The 5 cent piece is often called a stiver.

The copper coins are the cent and the J cent, worth respectively }d. and /^d, ster-
ling.

Weights.

The weight for gold and silver is the Dutch mark, troy, divided into 9 reals, each,
weighing 422 grains, English.

The commercial weights in common use are based on the China weights, thus . —

16 taels = 1 catty := U lbs. Dutch troy.

100 catties =: 1 picul =125 „ rr ] 36 lbs. avoirdupois.

or 61 kilogrammes.
3 piculs zz. 1 small bahar = 408 „

4| piculs := 1 large bahar _ ; 612 ,

APPENDIX.

1263

In foreign trade, however, the Dutch troy pound of 2 marks is genei'ally used.
The proportion of the Dutch and English weights are —

1 Dutch troy pound rr^

1 Dutch commercial pound ::::

7576 grains, English.
7625

The metric weights are as follows — •

1 korrel =
10 korrel = 1 wiglje =:
10 wigtje = 1 lood ^=

10 looden ::= 1 onze =^

10 onzen = 1 pond r=

Grains Troy.
1.5432349
15.432349
154.32349
Lbs. av.

.220466
2.20466

1 decigramme.

1 gramme.

1 decagramme.

1 hectogramme.
1 kilogramme.

Measures.

The measures for rice and grain are the picul and coyan or koyang, and for smaller
quantities the timhang and gantang. The coyan weighs at —

Batavia
Samarang
Soerabaya
or about 60 imperial bushels.

27 piculs or 3,3 75 troy Dutch lbs.

28 piculs or 3,500 „
30 piculs or 3,750 „

The timbang contains 5 piculs or 10 sacks ; 5 gantangs make 1 measure ; and 46
measures are equal to a last. These measures are principally in use among the
natives.

The most general liquid measure in all the Dutch .settlements is the kan, 33 of
which are equal to a little more than 13 English gallons. A leager or legger of
arrack is 388 Batavia kans, equal to 133 imperial gallons, or 550 litres.

Of long measure, the ell is 27| English inches, and the foot of 12 duimen, or inches.
is equivalent to 1239, English inches.

The metric system of measures is as follows —

1 maatje
10 maatjes = 1 kop

10 koppen =: 1 schepel

10 schepels= 1 mud or zak

30 mudden = 1 last

Imperial Pints.
= .176077
= 1.760773
Imperial Gallons.
= 2.200967

Imperial Bushels.
=z 2.751208
Imperial Quarters.
= 10.31703

1 decilitre.
1 litre.

1 decalitre.

1 hectolitre.

^ 30 hectohtre.

A market schepel contains 2^ schepel, or 25 koppen, and is equal to 5.5024175 imperial
gallons, English.

Length.

In 1820, Holland adopted the metric system ; and the weights and measures are
the same as those of France, but have different names, as will be seen by the follow-
ing tables : —

Inches.

1 streep

0.3937

1 millimetre.

10 strepen =

I duim

.3937079

1 centimetre.

10 duimen=:

1 palm

3.937079

1 decimetre.

10 palmen =

1 el

39.37079
Yards.

1 metre.

10 ellen =:

1 roedo

—

10.936308

—

1 decametre.

100 roeden =i:

1 mijle

1093.6082 or nearly 6

furlongs

1 kilometre.

NORTH-WEST BORNEO.

Memorandum forwarded by H.B.M., Consul-General for Borneo, with regard to
Dr. Browne's tabulated series of questions on the Currency, Weights, and Measures
of Borneo, &c.

Money.

On the N.W. Coast of Borneo, goods and produce are exchanged for each other,
the reckoning being made in so many piculs of brass guns, a picul being worth about
35 dollars.

This is not altogether an imaginary mode of keeping accounts, for the guns are
actually cast in quantities at Brunei, and weigh from 2 to 8 guns to the picul. At
Brunei fines are levied in piculs of guns. Dollars and cents are also a medium of ex-
change.

In the South of Borneo, under Dutch rule, the real and guilder are used in reckon-
ings, the real being an imaginary coin worth 2 guilders.

In Lootoo and the territories in Borneo belonging to that country the currency
consists of doubloons, dollars, and Pitis, 5,000 of which are equal in value to a dollar.
These small zinc coins are made in China and Manilla for the Lootoo market, and are
similar to the copper cash used in China, but are much smaller and thinner. In the
extreme North of Borneo money is almost unknown, and accounts are kept in pieces
of cloth, each piece equal to 1.50 dollar. In the mountains of the same district
reckonings are made in bundles of iron for large accounts, each bundle, so far as I
could learn, being in weight about 8 lbs. For small accounts they reckon in charges
of gunpowder.

The mountaineers (Legal) in the N.E. of Borneo, reckon in cakes of salt for small
accounts, and pieces of cloth, each representing 3 dollars, for large accounts.

In the western part of New Guinea accounts are calculated in pieces of black clothe
each valued at 10 guilders.

Weights used at Brunei.

16 taels

1 Catty.

100 catties

1 picul

40 piculs

1 koyan.

1331 lbs.

APPENDIX. 1265

Measures of Quantity.

2 pahus or bambus

rr:

1 chupa.

4 chupahs

1 gantang.

10 gantangs

1 para.

20 gantangs

1 picul.

40 piculs

I koyan.

Measures of Length.

2 jankals ^^ 1 hasta.

2 hastas :=r 1 ella or yard.

2 ellas rzr 1 dapa or fathom.

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
Money.

The currency of the Philippines is the Spauish dollar divided into rials and cuartos,
but for commercial accounts, and to correspond with the American dollar, also divisible
into cents. A dollar consists of 8 rials, equal to 160 cuartos, a rial being equal to 20
cuartos.

The coinage consists of the gold pieces of 4 dollars, 2 dollars, and 1 dollar ; of the
silver pieces of 4 rials (equal to 50 cents), 2 rials (equal to 25 cents), 1 rial (equal to
12^ cents), and a recent emission of 20 and 10 cent pieces ; and of the copper pieces of
2 cuartos and 1 cuarto.

The Government accounts are, however, calculated in escudos or florins (2 to the
dollar), and in ten-thousandths of an escudo ; thus, 1 dollar 6 rials are equal to 1
dollar 75 cents, and to 3 iVo^o^o escudos.

Weights.

The weights commonly in use are the picul and its parts. There are also the fol-
lowing Spanish weights : —

8 dram =z 1 ounce.

16 ounces or 2 marks = 1 pound.

25 pounds =: 1 arroba = 25^ lbs. avoirdupois.

4 arrobas or 100 lbs. := 1 quintal := 102 „

51 arrobas or IST^ lbs. =:^ 1 picul =: 148 „

Measures.

The Spanish foot is about 11 j English inches. It is divided into 12 pulgados, each
containing 12 lines. The vara, or measure for cloth, is three feet, or 4 palmos, or 36
pulgados, equal to 33 i English inches; 100 varas are equal to 92| English yards.
English goods and some other goods are sold by the English yard. The corge is 20
pieces. The caban, a measure for grain, contains 3,'g"g cubic feet; a caban of rice
•weighs 123 lbs., and of paddy 85 lbs. Sixteen Manila piculs equal 1 ton English
weight. One ton weight of hemp measures 2 tons of 40 cubic feet.

I. A. 7 Y

1266

APPENDIX.

CHINA.

Glossary of Chinese Words.

Chinese. English.

Chah Barrier.

Chah-hwang-muh Boom.

Chau District, city, islet.

Chin Town.

Chuen Channel.

Chung-yuen Mainland.

Fau-fu Buoy.

Fau-tau Eoadstead.

Fu Departmental city.

Gau Harbour.

Hai Sea.

Hai-kau Bight, creek,

Hai-kioh Cape.

Hai-mun Estuary.

Hai-yau Gulf.

Heh Black.

Hiah-kau Strait.

Hiang-tsun ....,, Village.

Hien, Chau District city.

Ho River.

Ho-tun Lighthouse.

Hu .....,, Lake.

Hung Red.

Hwan Yellow.

Chinese.

Barbarian.

Kau Mouth,

Kiang River.

Kiau Bridge.

Kin Gold.

King Capital city.

King-chi-chau .... Peninsula.

Koh ............ Rocky peak, headland

Kwang-lau Lighthouse.

Kwan Custom-house.

Kuh Valley.

Lau Tower, old.

Li Inner.

Lin Forest.

Ling Chain of hills.

Lung Tiger.

Ma Horse.

Ma-tau Jetty, port.

Miau

English.
Temple.

Nan South, southern.

Ni Mud.

Nui Inner.

Pau-tai Fort.

Peh, pei North,

Peh White.

Po, Hu Lake.

Pu Sea-shop.

Pwang-sheh Rocks.

Sha Sand, sand-bank.

Shan, san Hill, Mountain.

Shan-hu Coral.

Shan-ting Mountain chain.

Shan-tau Bluff, cliff.

Sha-sien Shoal.

Sha-tan Bar.

Sheh Stone.

Sheh-tan Reef.

Shin Spirit (celestial)

Shui Water.

Si West, western.

Siau-ho Rivulet.

Sima (Japanese) ,. Island.

Siwo (Japanese) . . Current.

So , Town, village.

Tah Pagoda.

Tau Island, head.

Tau-tu Clay.

Ting, Ti-tau .... Promontory.

To-muh Wooded.

Tsiau-pi Cliff.

Tshui-sha Gravel.

Tsui-wei Rocky, stony,

Tung East, eastern.

Tutan Ferry.

Wan Bay,

Wi-moh-ti Isthmus,

Wei Outer,

Wei Military post,

Yang Sheep.

Yen-tun Beacon, buoy.

Money.

The only native coin now in use throughout China is the tsieji, called cash by the
English, and sapeque by the French, M'ho derive it from the Portuguese sapeca. It

APPENDIX.

12G7

is circular from ^ to ,"„ inch in diameter, and has a square hole in the middle for con-
venience of stringing them. It is cast, not stamped. On one side it bears the name
of the province it is cast in, in Mandchu letters, on one side of the hole, with the
Chinese word " money " on the other. On the other side is the name of the emperor
reigning, on each side of the hole, and above and below it two Chinese characters,
signifying " current money." Copper coins of this shape were first cast about B.C.
1120, when Saul was King of Israel, and has ever since been retained as the national
currency.

Spanish, Mexican, and South American dollars (though not acknowledged by the
government) are employed as a commercial medium throughout the maritime pro-
vinces.

The nominal moneys of account are the linng, tsien.fan, and li, called by foreigners
tael, mace, candween, and cash, the proportion of which, one to the other, is decimal.
The candareen is equal, only in accounts, to 10 cash ; but, owing to the deterioration
of the coin, its actual value in Canton, in 1854, was about the eighteenth part of a
candareen, 1900 ordinary cash, or 1800 picked ones, being paid for a tael. Since
that time the exchange has risen from various causes, and only 1350 to 1400 can be
obtained for a tael. At Amoy, in 1850, a Spanish dollar would purchase 3600 pieces
of the poorest kind, but only 1300 selected ones. At Canton, at the same time, the
dollar bought 1200 current cash, and at Shanghai 1750. In 1863 a dollar at the same
three cities would exchange for 1100, 1050, and 1100 pieces, showing the result of
freer intercourse.

The terms tael, mace, candai-een, and cash, are merely denominations of w'eight ;
the cases in which stamped pieces of silver (other than clean dollars) pass current as
coin being few, except in small transactions. It is more convenient, however, to
speak of them as nominal moneys.

The circuli^ting medium in transactions with foreigners, at the open ports, is chiefly
in whole or broken dollars ; the value of the dollar in relation to the tael varies in
different transactions. In calculations and accounts between foreigners and mer-
chants, and almost always in bargains between the Chinese themselves —

Taels are converted into dollars at the rate of - - taels 720 per 1000 dollars.

But payments in cash are generally weighed at - - „ 717 ,,

Tradesmen paid by compradores receive - - - - „ 715 to 717 ,,

The value of the tael in relation to sterling money was reckoned by the East India
Company at 6s. 8d,, but its intrisio value varies according to the price payed for
dollars per ounce in London. Hence, to convert taels into sterling money, multiply
the price payed for dollars by multiplier 1.208. Thus, if the price of the dollar be
60d. per ounce, the value of the tael will be 60 -f 1.208 — 72,V„d., it at 66 it will

Taels.

Mace.

Candareen.

Cash.

Drs. Avoird.

Grs. Troy.

Grammes.

Tolas.

100

1000

21.33

579.34

37.796

3.23

—

100

2.13

57.984

3.779

—

0.213

5.798

0.378

—

1268

APPENDIX.

Commercial Weights,

The unit of the table is the liang or tael.
1 kernel of millet is 1 shu.

10 shu

z= 1 lui.

11 lui

:= 1 chu or pearl.

24 chu

= 1 liang or tael

\\ oz. avoir.

16 liang or

taels

= 1 kin or catty

lilbs. „

2 kin

=r 1 yin

2f lbs. „

30 kin

= 1 kiun

40 lbs. „

100 kiun

= 1 t»n or pierul

133 1 lbs. „

120 kin

= 1 shih or stone

zzz

160 lbs, „

Chinese weights and grain measures, and the linear long and land measure, all
vary in different parts of the country; but, as a general rule, they are largest and
longest in the southern provinces.

I ton is equal to 16 piculs 80 catties,
I cwt. „ 84 catties.

1 lb, avoirdupois f of a catty or 1 2 taels.
4 oz. is equal to 3 taels.

1 picul „ 1.19047 cwt. or 1 cwt. 21^ lb».
3000 taels „ 302 lbs. troy.

The difference in the values of the weights above a tael as fixed by the natives, and
those in common use in China, are as follows —

British Treaty, French Treaty. Common Weights,

Stone - - - 169.99 lbs. avoir, 72.544 kilog. 159.11 lbs. avoir.

Picul - - - 133.33 „ 60.453 „ 132 6

Catty - - - 1,333 „ 604.53 grammes. 1.326 „

Tael - - - 1,333 oz. avoir, 37.783 „ 1,328 oz. avoir.

Length.

Capacity,

Measures.

1 lih or gran is 1 fun.
10 fun - - - 1 tsun or inch.

10 tsun-

ehih, covid or foot =

14.1 in. Eng,

10 chih-

chang or pola =:

11. ft. 9 in.

10 chang

yin.

1 grain of millet is 1 suh.

6 snh -

1 kwei.

10 kwei

1 tsoh or pugil.

10 tsoh

1 chau or handful.

10 chau

1 choh or ladle.

choh

1 yoh or cup.

2 yoh -

1 koh or gill =

0.103 litre.

2 koh -

1 shing or pint ^^

1.031 „

10 shing

1 tau or peck =

10.31 „

16 tau -

1 yu.

6 yu -

1 koh =

51.55 „

2 yu -

1 shih =

10,310 „

16 koh -

1 ping.

1 f u -

6 tau 4 shing.

These are taken from the " Chinese Commercial Guide," by S. Wells Williams, an
excellent work.

APPENDIX.

1269

Japanese.

Chisai

Ko, as a prefix ,

Oki

O, as a prefix

Daibo

Kuchi

Makes guchi in the
compound, as ....

Kawa guchi .....,,,

Kawa

Makes Gawa in the
compound

Yama ....

Kuni

Nada

Umi

Seto

Haua

Saki

Misaki

Ura

Minato

Mura

Sima, in the Yedo
dialect pronounced

Shima, and some-
times forms in the
compound Jima, as

Awa Jima

Ham a

Tei-haku

Si wo, pronounced in
Yedo

Shiwo

O shiwo, or siwo ....

Ko shiwo „

Michi shiwo „

Hiki Shiwo „

Iwa

Ishi

Kita

Minami

Hagashi

Kicihi

JAPAN.
Glossary of Japanese Words.

English. Japanese. Enohsm.

Little, small. Kaze Wind.

Little, small. Ame Rain.

Large, great. Yuki Snow.

Large, great. Kumo Clouds.

Fort, Midzu Water.

Mouth. Hi Fire.

Tsuki Moon.

Mouth. O Hi Sun.

The river's mouth. Ki Tree.

River. Michi , Road.

Machi Street.

River. lye House.

Mountain. Hiroi Wide.

Country. Hoso Narrow.

A sea. Nagai, pronounced in

The sea. Yedo Long.

Strait. Nangai , Long.

Point. Mijikai Short.

Cape. No (possessive pron.) Of.

A prominent cape. Wa (the definite art.) The.

Bay. Wo (the ohjective

Harbour. case.)

Village. Ga (the indefinite

art.) A or any.

Island. Kane, makes in

the compound

Gane Metal.

Island. Aki-gane (red metal) Copper.

Awa island. Kin Gold.

Coast, shore. Gin Silver.

Anchorage. Tetsu Iron.

Tomio Lighthouse,

Tide. Se A shoal.

Tide. Fukai Deep.

Spring tide. Asai Shallow.

Neap tide. Takai High, lofty, taU,

Flood tide. Tera Temple.

Ebb tide. Fune Boat.

Rock. Joki sen Steamer.

Stone. Ho bune Sailing vessel.

North. Kuroi Black.

South. Shiroi White.

East. - Hana iro Blue.

West. Ki iro ............ Yellow.

1270

APPENDIX.

Japan ESB.
Hatoba

Gake

Take

Ikiari

Uma

Imo

Mame

Kochira ni asai ka .
„ fukai „

Nin or jin , .. .

Onna

Kodomo

Uchi

Hdru

Natsu

Unjosho

Aki

Fuyu

Kama

English. Japanese. English.

Wharf, landing- Doro Mud.

place. Hashi Bridge.

Cliff. Sibansho Guard house.

Hill. Guiikan Man-of-war.

Anchor. Hata Flag.

Horse. Gats Month.

Potatoes. Nichi Day

Beans. Omo kaji Starboard.

Is it shoal here ? Tori kaji Port.

Is it deep here ? Ushi Bull.

Man. Niwatori Fowl.

Woman. Tamago Egg.

Child. Kamo Duck.

In, inside, Karo Magistrate.

Spring. Shikwan Officer,

Summer. Daimio Noble,

Custom house. Joki sha Railway.

Autumn, Oka Land.

Winter. Midzu umi Lake.

Sand.

In the pronunciation of many of the above words i and u are often almost inaudible.

Money.

The coinage now in use in Japan was adopted in the year 1871, The Yen, a gold
coin weighing 25,72 grains troy, was constituted the fundamental unit of the system.
The gold coins are 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 yen pieces, the latter valued at £4 3s. 4d, The
one yen piece is valued at 4s. 2d. English,

Silver and copper coins are as follows. The yen or dollar being the coin used in
paying duties and in commercial transactions between Japanese and foreign mer-
chants : —

1 yen
60 sen
20 sen
10 sen

5 sen

Silver.

= 48. 2d.

„ 2s. Id,

lOd,

„ 5d.

2M.

Copper.
1 sen =
\ sen „
1 rin

id.
|d.

a'od.

Weights.

4.1'oirdupois.
1 drachm
1 oz.

1 pound -
1 cwt.
1 ton

Troi/.
1 grain -
1 pennyweight
1 oz.
1 pound -

.4695 Momme.
7.5117

120.187 „

13161. „

269220. „

.01717 „

.4121 „

8.242 „
98.1

APPENDIX.

Measures.

1 inch

= .08378

Shaku3.

1 foot

1.005362

1 yard

3.016086

1 pole

16.588473

1 furlong

663.539

1 mile

5308.312

1 geographical

mile -

6119.304

1 degree -

367168.

„ or 28.330111 Ri

!27l

The measures of capacity are as follows :-

Japanese.
10 Sai -
10 Shij-aku
10 Is gob
10 Shoo
10 To -

Chinese.
1 Shiyaku (Choh)
1 Ngob (Koh)
1 Shoo (Shing) -
1 To (Tau)
1 Koku -

Cuhic measure.
1.1075 cuhic inches.
11.075 „
110.75
1107.5

6.409 cubic feet

Liquid measure.

or .3195 pints,
or 3.195 „
or 3.9942 gallons,
or 4.9928 bushels.

INDEX.

Aanvang Bank, 250, 257

Aba Bay, 1234

Abai River, 508, 509

Abaji, 899

Abang Islands and Strait,

341. 342
Aberdeen Harbour and

Island, 962, 965
Aboi Point, 483
Abra de Vigan, 604
Abriop Bank, 931
Abro de Ilo, 924
Abulag River, 935
Abu Mount, 882
Acasta Rock, 311
A-chau Island, 959
Acheen or Achin, 137, 138
Achin Head and River, 139
Achterland, 831
Acio Point, 908
Acis Shoals, 487
Acong Rock, 998
Actason Rock, 266, 269

,, Shoal, 1138
Adako, 1 176
Adams Point, 1049
,, Port, 1 159
Adang Bay, 799
Ada Reef, 523, 854
Addington Shoals, 798, 799,

808
Addison Peak, 569
Ad«nara, 777, 779
Adie, 142
Adirejo River, 725
Adkins Cape, 1135
Admiral Bank, 1215

„ Protet Reef, 276
Afuera Bank, 593
Agatuya Island, 923
Agbatan Point and Light,

925
Aggel, 717

Agincourt Island, 1047
Agong Mount, 251, 745

,, Point, 726
Aguadas Islands, 131
Agum-Agum Point, 140
Ai-chau Islands, 956, 957
Aidumea Island, 856
Aikavva, 1198
Ai-no-se Rock, 1225
Aino Sima, 1237
Airy Mount, 547
Ai Sima, 1223

Ajax Shoal and Buoy, 362

Ajar Hitam Bay, 739

Aji Kawa, 1208
,, River, 1208

Akashi Strait, 1210, 121 1

Akbar Shoal, 238

Akeno Misaki, 1213

Akishi, 1253, 1254

Akunora, 1239

Alabaster Rocks, 421

Alabat Island, 933

Alang Kalem Bank, 297
„ Point, 704, 705
„ Tiga Islands, 337,

351
Albaguen Island, 553
Albay Gulf, 930, 931
Albert Peak, 1073
Albion Head, 544
Alceste Island, 1139

,, Reef, 228, 236, 237,

242
,, Shoal, 1033
Alexander Shoal, 637
Alexandra Bank, 621
Algerine Bluff, 1228, 1229

,, Point, 1086
AH Bandang, 847
Alibijaban Island, 928
Alibi Rock, 1022
Alicia Annie Shoal, 665
Alimudeen Point, 540
All Sima Island, 1205
Alkmaar Island, 682
Allang Bau Shoal, 382
Alias Strait, 748, 759-761
Alligator Bay, 559, 774

,, Island, 320, 361,

559, 1062
,, Point, 1086, 1097
Alloo Strait, 777
Allor Island, 339, 782

,, Strait, 7S0, 781
Almahera Island, 871
Almirante and Lighthouse,

526
Althea Bank, 446, 447
Alwina Shoal, 255, 256
Amagi Yama Mountain,

1 180
Amahai Harbour, 852, 854
Amakusa Island, 1232, 1233
Amalingat Point, 551
Amantes, Islas de los, 922,

923

Amaze Rock, 1214
Amazon Bank, 446, 447
Ambil Bank and Mountain,

592, 593
Amblau Island, 823
Amboer Rock, 728
Ambogaga Bight, 775
Amboina, 824-828

Shoal, 818
Ambolon Island, 590, 591,

923
Ambong Bay, 506-508

,, Reef, 401
Amboyna, 824-828

,, Cay, 662, 663
Amelia Bank, 209
Amherst Point, 982

,, Rocks, 1107, 1114
Amitsihama Cape, 1197
Amok Bay, 746
Amoy Island and Harbour,

941, 1019-1023
Ampanam, 755, 757, 758
Ampang Bay, 763
Ampa River and Shoal, 488
Amphitrite Bay, 337, 351

,, Islands, 645

Amping and Road, 1039
Amsterdam Fort, 812

,, Island, 677,

.797. 879
Amul Mountain, 592
Amurang Bay, 811
Amur Shoal, 290
Amy Douglas Shoal, 667
Anakan Lagoon, 724, 728
Anak Seera Islands, 336
,, Varella Island, 335
Anam, 428

,, Money, &c., 1260-
1262
Anama Point, 1250, 1251
Anamba Islands, 610-613
Ananas Island, 292
Anang, 954
Anauayan Island, 910
Anchorage Island, 555, 576,

1207
Anda Island, 883
Andellan Island, 158
Angas Point, 929
Angelica Reef, 772
Angeneita Islands, 681
Anhin, 424
Aniguig, 915

INDEX.

1273

Anima Sola Island, 908,909
Anipahan and Peak, 546,

547
Anjer and Lights, 162, 163,

671
Anjol Cape, 731,
Anna Grabs Point, 123
Anson Bay, gSo

,, Bluff, 1022
Antelope Shoal, 185, 541, 644
Antique, 915
Ant Islands, 509
Anto Island, 298, 299
Antoran Point, 745
Antu Island, 317
Anung-hoy Island and

Point, 977, 980
Aoga Sima Island, 1193
Aogi Seto, 1215, 1216
Aosa Saki, 1243
Ao-shan Island, 1084
Aosima Yama, 1247
Ao-ti-bon-lai Bay, 411
Ao-ti-no\v Bay, 411
Aou-wa-nah, 1036
Aparri, 935
Ape Hill, 1037
Api Island, 764, 766
,, Passage, 614
,, Point, 197, 480
Apiton Island, 910, 914
A Point, 434

Apo Island and Shoal, 589
Apollos Island, 1170
Apomi Point, 950
Apowan Harbour, 465
Appo Island, 539

,, Shoal, 589
Appurawan, 546
Arafura Sea, 848, 849
Arakun Dur River, 142
Arari Bay, 117S

,, Point, i2o5
Arch Rock, 1226
Ardasier Bank, 664-665
Ardassier Rock, 873
Ardjoena Peak, 671, 703
Arena Point, 928
Arend Bank, 187
Arends Island, 738, 741
Arentes Island, 738
Arethusa Reef, 401
Argopoera Mountain, 715
Argo Shoal, 255
Arguna Bay, 857
Ariadne Rock, 1107, 11 14
Ariaga Island, 883
Arkold Rock, 1196
Arlyi Rocks, 1035
Armadores Island, 883
Arnemuiden Rock, 736, 737
Aroostook Reef, 1246
Arrang-Arrang Island, 128
Arroa Islands, 125-126
Arrogant Reef, 705
Arru Islands, 841-846
Arthur Head, 1137
„ Port, 1159
I. A.

Aruba Shoal, 288
Asama Bank, 1241, 1243
Asam Island, 746
Ashika Sima Rocks, 1182,

1183
Ashme Rock, 1020
Ashuelot Rocks, 1029
Ashumah Island, 1050
Asina Bay, 1180, 1187
Asing Point, 494
Asi Sima, 1198
Aska Sima, 1242
Assam, 749
Assarhan River, 146
Asses' Ears Islands, 1229

,, ,, Peaks, 404, 959
Assing River, 196, 197-198
Astrolabe Rocks, 1246
Atapopa, 789
Atjeh River, 139
Atkin Rock, 336-337
Atsusi no Osima, 1242
Atta Point, 776
Atwick Rock, 266
Audacious Rock, 1045
Augusta Island, 863, 864
Aurora Bank, 795, 873
Austin Island, 584
Awa, 1182, 1202
Awadji, 1208

,, Sima, 1202
Awa Peninsula, 1189

,, Rock, 1213

,, Sima, 1213, 1248
Awatsu Bay, 1180
Awomori and Bay, 1248-

1249
Awoota Rock, 1016
Ay-aw Banks and Creek,

1041
Ayer Bank, 682

,, Brani Island, 377-378

,, Masein Bank, 275
Aylen Bay, 1139
Ayma Rock, io5r
Azuma, 1185

Baa, 788
Baaikonka, 817
Baars Island, 772
Baba Island, 839-840
Ba-bou River, 432
Babuyan Islands, 935-936
Babi Island, 672, 780, 782,
824, 843, 844
,, Islands, 402
Bacahuan or Bacauan, 910,

914
Bac Island, 449
Bacht-long-vi Island, 468
Back Cap Peak, 545
Back-li Bay, 477
Backsha Point, 473
Bacolot Harbour, 90S
Bacon, 930
Bacos Islands, 927
Bacuit Bay, 561, 563-564,

565

Badas Island, 299
Baddoe, 158
Baddu Island, 158
Badiak Cove, 769-770
Badinh Mountain, 433
Badjak Island, 773
Badog Isle, 605
Badong Bay, 747, 753
Badyoa, 8i5
Bae Vioung Island, 633
Bagaca Point Light, 907
Bagacay, 930, 931, 933
Bagamanoe, 931
Bagan Panas River, 142

,, River, 142
Bagatao Island, 929
Baginda Point, 199
Baglas Island, 908
Baglen Head, 723-724
Bago Island, 252
Baguala Bay, 825, 828
Baguan Island, 918
Bahalatolis Island, 917
Bahek Cape, 444
Ba-helee River, 549
Bahia de Sarangani, 897

,, Reef, 865
Bajo de Apo Shoal, 5S9

,, Lipata, 907
Bajue, 816
Bakauw Point, 337
Ba Ke Cape, 444
Bakit Moar Hill, 133
Bakka Shoal, 255
Baksha Village, 471
Bakungan Mountains, 751
Balabac Great Reefs, 523

,, Island and Strait,
513, 522-539
Peak, 523

,, Strait Main Chan-
nel, 530
Balagan Bay, 927
Ba-lai River, 431
Balambangan Island, 512,

513

Balambing, 887
Balanac, 603
Balanipa, 806
Balanranga Island, 815
Balansungain Islands and

Peak, 541
Balatetto Cape, 822
Balat River, 460
Balawan River, 143-144
Balbatan Island, 914, 916
Baler Bay, 934
Balereh Island, 763
Balesin Island, 933
Balicuatro Islands, 902
Balik Papan Bay, 800
Balino, 905

Balintang Islands, 938
Bali Peak, 745
Ballang Island, 299

„ Peak, 802

,, River, 485
Ballast Island, 951

7 z

1274

INDEX.

Bally, 756
Balo, 931
Balolo Rock, 558
Balony River, 484
Baltu Rackil Rock, 409
Balulu Point, 559
Balundangan Island, 529
Balunrueh Island, 815
Baly Island and Strait, 742-

754
Bambek Shoal, 126, 128
Bambo Bambo Cape, 757
Bamboe Island, 255
Bamboo Town, 983
Bampton Bank, 741
Bamukan Bay, 798
Banana Island, 830
Bancalan Island, 513, 536
Bancawan Channel, 521
Bancawang Island, 920
Bancawan Island and Reef,

529
Bancoran Island, 921
Banda Islands, 829-S34
Bandar Bahru, 118
Banda Sea, 834-S4S

,, Shoal, 631
Banditi Islands, 746-717
Bandjermasin, 739-740
Bandyer River, 739-740
Banfif Bay, 615
Bangaai Island, 813
Bangao Islands and Rocks,

1074
Bangapally Islands, 870
Bangalore Reef, 772
Bang-ka, 1043
Bangkok River and Light,

412, 425-427
Bango Inlet, 762
Bang-pa-kong River, 425
Bang-Pasoi, 424
Bang Pra, 424
Banguey Island, Shoals,

and Channel, 512-529
Bangui Port, 605
Banjoan Island, 777
Banjoe Japa Rock, 727

... Njapa, 725
Banjoewangie, 671, 748,

751-752
Banju Wedan Bay, 744
Banka Bank, 147

,, East Coast of, 234

,, Island and Strait,
812

,, North Coast of,
224-226, 260

,, Point and Hill, 202

,, Strait, 187-224

,, West Coast of, 199
Bankela Island, 813
Banks of Soundings, 104-

105
Banlam, 412
Banog Bay, 547
Bansu Hana, 1188, 1189
Banta Island, 766

Bantam and Bay, 671,
672-574
,, Cape, 454
Bantayan Island, 908
Bantay Island, 604
Bantigui Cape, 927
Banting Mattie, 729
Banton Island, 925
Baoloeang Island, 819
Bappang Reef, 692
Baras Port, 931
Barat Bank, 497
Barbacan Point, 577
Bara Island, 405
Barbukit Hill, 385, 395
Bare Islets, 851
,, Rocks, 303
Baring Mount, 577
Bar Island, 421, 1136
Barito River and Buo}s,

739-740
Barneveld Fort, 878
Barn Island, 232: 245, 361
Baroe Island, 292
Baron Bight, 723

,, Island, 719-720
Barou Islands, 493
Barracouta Rock, 1237
Barra Fort, 952
Barram Point and River,

488, 490
Barren Bay, 1072

,, Island, 310, 363,

580, 947, 1077
,, Islands, 1090
Barreras, Puerto, 905
Barrete Island, 936
Barrie Bay, 770
Barrier Beacon, 493-494
,, Passage and Bea-
cons, 987
Bartoc Island and Reef, 558
Barton Point, 579
„ Port, 552, 553
„ Rock, 510
Baru Bay, 336
Barugo Port, 929
Barung Island, 719-720
Basalt Island, 994-995
Base Bay, 566

„ Cliff and Reef, 585,
5S6
Bashee Channel, 1032-1033
Bashi Islands, 937-939
Basi, 932
Basilan Island and Strait,

892-S94
Bassa Island, 817
Bassar Island, 760
Basso Island, 351
Bassok Bank, 434
Basso Point, 337
Bastaard Islands, 771
Bastion Cape, 47S
Ba-swa Mountains, 1036
Batag Island, 902
Batak, 138
Batakarang Point, 198, 222

Batalampon Point, 913
Batangan Cape, 454
Batangas Bay, 927
Batang Lupar River, 483

,, Rock, 721
Batanguingi Island, 892
Batan Islands, 930, 937-939
Batanta Island and Reef,

860
Batavia, 671, 672, 677-688
Bat Bay, 719
Batchian Island and Strait,

878
Bate Channel, 536

,, Island, 1000

,, Rock, 981
Ba-thac River, 431
Batjan Island, 878
Batoang Island, 281
Batoe Dodol, 750
,, Poetie, 791
Batolaqui Shoal, 891
Batomande Rocks, 511
Bator Cove, 729

,, Volcano, 746
Battam Islands and Bay,

392, 394
,, Island, 348

Battanta Island, 860

Battery Point, 1232

Battoo Mandi Shoal and
Buoy, 129

Batto Tinga Rocks, 129

Batuan Bank, 275

Batu Balia, 125
,, Balu, 134
,, ,, Rock, 894
„ Barra Bay and River,

144, 145-146
,, Batong Shoal, 796
,, Creek, 140
,, Goyang Island, 843
,, Hadji Strait, 349, 363
,, Island, 773
,, Kapal, 139
,, Lakie Island, 817
,, Mandi, 125
,, Meau, 837
,, Pedir, 140
,, Point, 324
,, Pulo Matti, S33
,, Putih Rocks, 511
,, Sombo Island, 879

Batutara Island, 779

Baua Islands, 611

Bauang, 927

Baudin Cape, 856

Baugh Island, 1049

Baulao, 555, 560

Bavi'an or Bawean Island,
704-705

Baya Cape, 770

Bayan Point, 197

Bay Hill, 1036
,, Island, 419, 551, 584
„ Islet, 560

Bayonnaise Island, 1193

Bay Peak, 554, 577

INDEX.

1275

Bay Rock, 1134, 1235
Bazol Bay, 602
Beacon Hill, 951, 1098
Beak Head and Island, 1079

,, ,, Channel, 1076,
1077, 1079-10S0
Bearing Point, 740
Bear Island, 1075
Beatrice Shoal, 787
Beau Bay, 810
Beaufort Island, 962. 1161
Mount, 546, 574
Becher Islets, 1092
Bedoelang Point, 715
Bedong Mount, 618
Beecher Point, 542
Beehive Rock, 1090
Bejaren Island, 881
Bekas Creek, 142
Belang Island, 760
Belas Creek, 142
Belauan Island, 892
Belawn Island, 892
Belelei Island. 401
Belgica Fort, 833
Belierang Mount, 715
Beliling and Road, 743, 745
Bella Vista Island, goo
Belliqueux Reef, 710
Bell Island, 1014-1015,

1025, 1084
Bello Port, 902
Bell Shoal, 922
Belo Island, 759
Belvedere Shoals, 265. 269
Bengao Island. 892
Benkoloean Island, 797
Bennet Bank, 905
Ben-nhau River, 431
Benoa Point, 746
Benolo Island, 252
Benoni River, 503
Bent Island, 1028
Bentoan Peak, 547
Beradjang Creek, 140
Berak Cape, 815
Berala Point and Spit, 370
Beraoe, S16
Berba Island, 337
Berdaun Rock, 371, 378
Bergat Rock, 720

Berlayer Point and Rock,

360. 376
Bernam River, 118

Bersiap Hill, 212

Besar Cape, 810
,, River, 113

Beschutter Island, 175

Bessek Head, 728

Bessie Island, 570
,, Point, 770

Bessi Island. 821-822

Betbet Point, 554

Bethune Head, 500

Belong Island, 252
,, Point. 167

Beuffle, Cone de, 861

Beveridge Point, 1020

Bezee Island and Channel,

Bezoeki, 671, 715-716, 748
Bias Bay and Point, 999-

lOOI

Bidan Island, iio

Bien-hoa, 432

Bien Shan Island, 458, 459

Biga, 931

Bigan Road, 604

Bight Islands, 171

Big Island, 999, 1000

Bihu, 140

Bilaa Point, 899

Bilitan Island, S87

Billimbing Bay, 166

Bill Islet, loio

Billiton, 229, 251, 273-274

Bima Bay, 764

Binagon Point and Light,

.925
Binanan Isles, 910
Binanga Port, 600
Binan Island, 314
Binget Island, 252
Bingo Xada, 1213
Binkang Bay, 449
Binnen Bank, 210
Binonko Island, 835
Bintang, 302-304, 392, 395
Bintoot Island, gig
Bintoulan Island, 885
Bintula River, 486-487
Binurun Point, 931
Binzli Reef, 1207
Bioe Bay, 764
Bira Birahan Island, 801
,, Birakan Islands, 794
Bird Island. 494, 502, 581,
839, S57. 1054-1055
,. Rock, 1078
Birds' Nest Islands, 290,

292
Biriyo Sima, 1226
Birose Rocks, 1214
Biro Sima. 1228
Bisa Island, 509-510, 511
Bisayas Islands, 895
Bisi Island, 290
Bisu Bintoot Island, gig
,, Bohan Island, gig
Bitjoli Bay, S73
Bit Rock, iog4, 11 12
Bittern Island and Rocks,
1064, 1065, 1068,
1248
,, Shallows, 11571
1158
Bitzoli Bay, 873
Bivouac Island, 543, 560,
580
,. Point, 571
Blackburne Shoal, 843
Black Cliff Head, 1060
„ Head, 1016
,, Islands, 1146
,, jack Islands, 453
„ Mount, 1007

Black Peninsula, 509-510
,, Point, 1036, 1121
,, Rock, 117, 290, 303,
1008, 1053,
1062, 1189,

1 193
„ Bay, 1034

,, ,, Point, 1006

Reef, 262

„ Rocks, 392, 766. 868
Blackwall Channel, 1087
Blackwood Cape, 776
Blading Island, 320
Blair Harbour, 402
Blakan Mati Island, 370
Blake Point, 982

,, Reef, 1 170
Blanco Cape, 1195, 1200
Blangah Bay, 375
Blantoe Hill, 251, 256
Blantong Bay, 171
Bias Mateu Rock, 231, 239
Bleleng, 745

Blenheim Passage, Canton
River, 983
,, Reef, 799

,, Shoal, 124

Blimbing Bay, 166
Blind Harbour, 524
Bliong Hill, 483
Bliss Shoal, 231, 258
Blitung Island, 229
Blockade Strait, 556
Block House Island and

Shoal, 1105, mo, 1117
Blomfield Mount, 551
Blonde Channel, Amoy
1022
,, Rock, 1097

Blond Islands, 1160
Blongas Bay, 757
Blosseville Port, 863
Blue Mountains, 678, 686

,, River, ggo-ggi
Bluff Head, g54, 996

,, Island, 9g4-g95

,, Point, 477, 545, 944
Boan Island, 291
Boat Island, 971

„ Rock, 557-558. 947

,, Rocks, 303, 1013
Boaya Mount, 726
Boayan Island, 552
Boca Engano Harbour and
Light, 909

„ Tigris, 976, g7g-9Si
Boddam Cove, g55-g56
Bodjo Negors. 703
Bodo Island, 770
Boear Island, 262
Boediang Island, 300
Boeer Bay, 759
Boe Islands and Reefs, 867
Boegel Cape, 6S7, 6g6
Boekoe Point, 336
Boelang Island, 348
Boelecomba, 802
Boelo Boelo Cape, 802

1276

INDEX.

Boemboen Bay, 721
Boemie Point, 731
Boender, 707-708
Boenga, 703

Boenging Katto Cape, 817
Boen Island, 850
Boenta Island, 337
Boentin Isles, 812
Boeova Island, 338
Boeroe Cape, 856

Island, 822-823
Boerong Islands, 285, 694,
786
,, Point, 318
Boeton Island and Strait,
813-815
,, Passage, 835
Bohan Island, gig
Bohul Island, 908
Boissieux Island, 457
Bojeador Cape, 605, 935
Bokhara Rocks, gg2-g93
Bolalo Bay, 556, 557
Bolano Bangka, 811
Bold Island, 290-291

,, Peak, 577

„ Point, 203, 575, 576
Boleng Strait and Islands,

780
Bolinao, 603
Bolk, 785
Bollan Bay, 394
Boiling Strait, 777, 780
BoUong Head and Rock,

723, 724-725
Bolole Point, 810
Bolombo Island, 345
Bolontio Point, 810
Bolus Bank, 358
Bombay Castle Shoal, 622,
662
,, Shoal, 642, 655-65G
Bondog Head and Mount,

928
Bondulan Point, gii
Bonerato, 773
Bongalao Island, 886
Bong Island, 45g
Bongkie Island, 811
Bongo Island, 897
Bonham Islands, 1095
Boni and Gulf, 815-817
Bonie Banko Rock, 805
Boni Harbour, 862

,, Rock, 816
Bonnet Rock, 1241, 1243
Bonoa Island and Strait, 854
Bonolano Volcano, 926
Bonthein and Peak, 802
Bool, 810

Booleelooyan Cape, 539
Boompjes Eiland, 238

,, Island and Light,

690
Islands, 686, 835
,, Reef, 177
Boom Rock, 175
Boonting Islands, no

Boorong Island, 290
Boot Bank, 796-797

,, Sand, 1025
Boreas Bank, 187
Borne, 167

Borneo, East Coast of, 794
,, Money, &c., 1264-

1265
,, North- East Coast

of, 917-918
,, North- West Coast

of, 480
,, South Coast of,

739-741
,, West Coast of,
281
Boshi Yama, 1228
Bottan Lumang Island, 878
Botavanan Island, 932
Bottefurh Rock, loio
Botel Islands, iig
Botel-tobago Islands, 1033
Bottle Islands, 119

,, Rock, 1173, 1207
Boudruet Rocks, 1034
Bougainville Island, 613

,, Passage, 87b

Bougsook Island, 513, 538
Boulder Hill, 1135
Bouncer Rocks, 956
Boungo Channel, 1164,

1202
Boung Quioua Cape, 457
Bouro Island and Bay, 822-

823
Bowen Island, 538
Bower Patch, 115-116

,, Point, 980

,, Shoal, 276
Bowong Point, 492-493
Boyah Rock, 405
Boykaai Bay, 788
B Point, 435
Braai River, 775
Brabands Hoedje Island,

164
Brace Islands, 306
Brahalla Island, 335
Brakit Rock, 392-393
Brambang Mount, 726
Branding Breakers, 241

,, Shoal, 230
Brani Point, 203

,, Reef and Buoys, 377,

378-379
Brass Basin Island, 1068
Breaker Bay, 487

,, Point, looi, 1008
,, Reef, 541, 657
,, Rock, 1028
Breakers Island, 152
Breakwater Island, 1030

,, Reef, 1035

Brebes Point, 688
Breda Bank, 446
Bree Point, 281
Brekat Bank and Point,
238, 269

Bremen Bank, 642
Bremer Channel, 981

,, Point, 987
Bremmer Channel, 979, g8i
Brewers Strait, 148
Brian Island, 615
Brig Island, 1012
Brilliant Bank, 790
Brill Shoal, 797
Brisbane Rock, 300
Bristly Point, 879
Britannia Bay, 765
Britto Bank, 444
Broadway Entrance, Canton

Rivers, 950-951
Broken Head, 547

,, Island, 1087
Brom-Brom Reef and Buov,

208
Brooke Island, 1095

,, Point, 481
Brossot, 723

Brother Islands, 417, 5S4
Brothers Islands, 136, 146,
177. 349, 351,
355. 429, 47S-
479. 746, 944.
g68, 1056
,, Islets, 1015
Broughton Bay, 1050

,, Rock, iig4

Brouwers Sand, 164
,, Shoal, 736

,, Reefs, 186

Brown Reach, g87
„ Reef, 253
,, Rock, 1020
,, Shoals, 666
Brow Peak, 545
Bruas River, 113
Bruit River, 484-485
Bruni Bluff, 48g
,, River, 4go-4g4
,, Shoals, 48g
Brunswick Shoals, g85
Bryson Point, 574
Buac, 925
Bubon Point, 553
Bubuan Island, 886, 892,

893
Buccleugh Shoal, 861, 865
Bucu Island, 6i5
Buckle Point, 574
Buffaloes Nose Island, 1076

,, Rocks, 701
Buffalo Horn Peak, 861, 862

,, Island, 453

,, Nose Channel and
Island, 1076, 1077

„ Peak, 838

„ Rock, 363, 366
Buffels Rocks, 701
Bugay, 935
Buging River, 142
Bugsuk Island, 538
Bugui Point, 905
Buisaco Islet, 1179
Bu Islands, 867

INDEX.

1277

Buitenzorg, 677

Buket Kalamit Hill, 847

„ Krain Hill, S47
Bukit Batu, 148, 213

,, Beloe, 207

,, Jerom, iig

,, Jugru, 123

,, Limmaun, 204

,, Pandin, 207

,, Panjang, 207

,, Tempelang, 207

,, Trokit Rock, 407
Bukkungaan Islands, 91S
Buku Point, 336
Bulacan, 935
Bulacaue Punta, gog
Bulalacao Island, g23
Bulan, 929

Bulanhow Mountain, 540
Buliluyan Cape, 536, 539
Bulipongpong Island, 885
Bullock Harbour, 1068
Bullock's Head Gate Island,

958
Bulo Bay, 224
Buloffs Island, 857
Buluagan Port, 912-913
Buluk Island, 894
Bululu Point, 558
Bulusan Volcano, 930
Bunga Inlet, 762
Bungala Creek, 140
Bungalun Rock, 801
Bungan Banks, 144-145

,, Bungan Point, 144
Bungarang Reef, 704
Bungie Cape, 817
Bunoa Island, 308
Bunsansiah Rock, 969
Bunting Islands, no
Buol, 891

Buoy Rock, 452, 525
Buran Darat Reef and

Beacon, 371
Bura Rock, 714
Burias Island, 908-909
Buri Point, 596
Burong Creek, 140

,, Island, 255, 405,
483, 494, 502
Buru, 816

,, Cape, 856
,, Island, 822-823
Buruncan Point, 590
Busuagan Island, 586
Busainga Harbour and

Light, 909
Busuanga Island, 586
Bush Head, 560

,, Island, 306, 1045, 1 io5
,, Reef, 996
Busin Harbour and Lights,

908-909
Butag Bay, 929
Buton Island, 813-815
Button Island, 165, 292, 477

,, Islet, 571

,, Rock, 449

Buttun Point, 530
Butuan Gulf, 899
Buy Island, 917
Buzen, 1218
Byan Island, 539

Cabalas Island, 551
Cabalete Island, 933
Cabaluyan Island, 603
Cabangan, 601
Cabra Island, 593
Cabugao, 931
Cabuli Island, 567, 584
Cabusao, 932
Cacbalisay Island, 932
Cacbolo Island, 551
Cacnipa Island, 552
Cacraray Island, 930
Cadlao Island, 564-565
Caduljuan Cape, 905
Cagayan de Sulu Islands,

918-919
Cagayanes Islands, 921-

922
Cagua Mount, 934
Caguayan, 930
Cahayagan Island, 902
Cai-cong, 433
Cai-ho-lo River, 549
Cairnsmore Rock, 1094,

1112
Cajeli Bay, 822-823
Calabazas Islands, 910
Calagnan Island, gio
Calagnas Islands, 932
Calagua, 933
Calalan Mount, 897
Calamianes Islands, 586-

588 _ _
Calamitian Island, 603
Calandorang Bay, 523, 526-

527
Calangaman Island, 906
Calantas Bank, 904, 929
Calapan, 924
Calap Island, 859
Calavite Cape, 592, 924
,, Island, 587-5S8
Calayan Island, 936
Calder Harbour, 384
Calintan Island, 929
Calitan Island, 566
Callang River, 120
Cal-li-bu-gon Hill, 542
Calocoto Rock, 588
Calolbong, 931
Calusa Island, 922
Camaman River, 406
Camao Point, 412, 415
Cambodia, 428

,, Point, 415

River, 430-432
Cambrian Pass, 1081

,, Reef, 1033
Cambridge Rock, 960
Cambyna Island, 815
Camden Reef, 923
Cameleon Rock, 342, 750

Camel's Hump Island, 310
Cami Cape, 469, 470
Camigao Island, 908
Camiguin Island, 899, 936-

937

Camono Sima, 1229

Camote Islands, 906

Campou River, 149

Cam-ranh Bay and Har-
bour, 448

Ca-mung-yan Island, 547-
548

Cana, 446

Canabungan Island, 536-

537
Canada Shoal, 663
Canaguaion, 903
Canamuan Peninsula, 931,

932
Canary Islands, 858
Cancao River, 416
Cancea Rock, 558
Candaraman Inlet, 524

,, Island, 536,

537
Caneepaan Bay and River,

540
Caneepahan Hill, 540
Cangio and Point, 432, 433,

435
,, Bank, 434
Canica Point, 558
Canimeran Island, 538, 539
Canimo Islands, 932
Canipo Island, 923
Cannibal Island, 674
Canning Fort and Light,
370
,, Rock, 264
Canton, 988-990

,, Packet Shoal, 873
,, River, 979-990
,, Rivers, 949-963
Capalonga River, 933
Capatancillo Island, go6
Cape of Good Hope, 1009-

lOIO

Cap Island, 164, 349, 353,

889, 1159
Capiz, 909

Capoas Cluster, 660-661
,, Mount and Cape,

554
Capones Point and Islands,

601
Cap Rock, 1086
Capsalay Island and Reef,

553
Cap-sing-mun Passage, 969
Captain Bank, 1215
Capuchin Point, 154
Capul Island, 904
Capyas Island, 540
Caraballos Montes, 926
Caraga, 900

,, Province, S97
Carao Bay, 932
Caravallo Point, 605

1278

INDEX.

Carcaralong Islands, 883
Carigara, 902
Carimata Island, 280

,, Strait, 271-294
Carimon Islands, 136, 347,

352, 354' 365
Carlandagan Islands, 580-

581

Carnatic Shoal, 656

Carnbee Rocks, 250, 257

Carpenters Rocks, 155

Carrington Reefs, 517, 520

Casiguran Bay, 934

Cass Spit, 1022

Castellated Rock, 1067

Castle Island, 582
,, Islands, 1162
,, Point, 575, 1064
,, Rock, 967, 1077

Castor Bank, 297
,, Point, 746
„ Rock, 734

Casuarina Point, 203, 571

Catanduanes Island, 931-
932

Catbalogan, 902

Catherine Bank, 160-161
,, Islands, 872-873

Catharine Reef, 266, 268,
278

Catong Sandbanks, 369

Catwick Islands, 635-638

Cauagan Point, 605

Cauayan Island, 565

Caucave Point, 597

Cau-chau Islands, 953

Cau Island, 453

Cauit Point, go6

Cauluan Island, 893

Cava Shoal, 651

Cavern Island, 565

Cavilli Island, 922

Cavite, 598

Cayagan Island, 918-gig

Cayeli Bay, 822-823

Cayman Point, 602

Cay Marino Shoal, 665

Cayo Marino Shoal, 651

Cebu Island, 906-908

Cecille Archipelago, 1169-
1170

Ceicer de Mer Island, 638-

639
Celebes Island, 801-820

Sea, 884
Celestial Reefs, 267
Central Island, 884
,, Islands, 1078
,, London Reef, 624
Centre Island, 306, 1179
Ceramese Sea, 865
Ceram Island, 852-854

,, Laut Island, 851
Ceramsche Zee, 865
Cervera Bank and Rock,

906, 908
Cetaceo Mount, 934
Chabrol Bay, 863

Chailachap Harbour and

Light, 724-728
Chain Islands, 1072

,, Rock, 981
Chalk Islands, 1022
Challum Bay, 1014
Chamber Island, 830
Cham-Collao Island, 454-

455
Champon River, 410
Chang-chau-fu, 1019
Chang Cheun cham Island,

948
Changchi Island, 1061-1062
Changhi Point, 382
Chang-pih Island, 1087
Chang-shan Channel, 1146
,, Island, 987,

1145-1146
,, Tail Spit, 1146

Chang-tau Strait, 1091
Chang-tow Island, 1091
Channel Rock, 1048

„ Rocks, 1137-1138
Channels, Penang, iog-112
Chapel Island and Light,

1017
Chappoo Bay, 477
Chapu, 1102-1103
Charles Albert Archipelago,

857
Charles Louis Mountains,

856
Charlotte Bank, 631
Charybdis Harbour, 1145

,, Rock, 115

Chauan Bay, 1014
Chauchat Rocks, 1018, 1021
Chau-chu-fu, loii
Chausot Island, 856
Chay-le-pi Rocks, 465
Chayune Island, 469
Chayung Island, 468
Chefoo, 941
Chehkiang, 1103
Chekiang, 109a
Chelang Point, 1004
Chelsieu Rock, 1014
Cheng Rock, 1073
Chentabun River, 421-422
Chen-to Rock, loii
Cheribon and Light, 671,
691
,, Peak, 691
,, Road, 687
,, Rock, 672, 675
Cherimon Island, 490
Chermin Bay, 376
Chesney Island, 1095
Che-tong-ka, 1037
Chiawo Bay, 873
Chichakoff Cape, 1201, 1231
,, Cape and Light,

1171-1172
Chi-chau Island, 958, 959,

972
Chief Bay, 1145
Ch'ich_Yang Island, 469

Chifu Harbour and Cape,
1141-1144
,, Peak, 1 144
Chih-seu Island, 1019
Chikhok Islands, 1071
Childers Rock, 1094
Chili Province, 1129
Chim Island, 1028
Chim-kong-o Bay, 1036
Chimmo Bay and Point,

1024, 1036
Chimney Island, 767, 1016

,, Point, 1053
China, Coast of, 940-1031,
1056- I 162
,, Glossary, Money,

&c., 1266-1268
,, Great Wall of, 1 153-

1154

,, Point, 716

,, Reef, 280

,, Sea, 609-667
Chin-Chew Island, 944
Chin-chu Harbour, 1025-

1026
Chingho Entrance, Liau-

tung Gulf, 1 153
Ching Keang Harbour, io85
Ching-moy-tow Island, 467
Ching Rock, 1016
Ching-tau-kow, 1134
Chin-hai, 1098
Chin-ha Point, 1017, 1018
Chinicaran Island, 559
Chinkeamun Harbour, 1083
Chinkiang, 941, 1104
Chin-ki Island, 1070
Chinnana River, 816
Chinna Point, 166
Chin-ne-yah Banks, 104 1
Chino Bay and Reef, 1005-

1006
Chinongab Peak, 555, 557
Chino Peak, 1005
^ „ Village, 945
Chin-quan Island, 1066
Chin-san Island, 1093
Chin-tseao Rocks, 1018
Chi-po-san Island, 1134
Chloe Island, 1078
Chock-e-Day, 1034
Choho Pagoda, 1025
Cholon, 437
Chondong Island, 401
Cheng P'ra Cape, 410
Chong Samit Channel, 422
Choondong Islands, 171
Choosi Point, 1196
Chosan Harbour, 1162
Choshin, 1219
Choukshan Harbour, 467
Choumay Cape, 455
Chouvay Cape, 455
Christmas Island, 578-579
Chrysolite Rock, 265
Chuck-tu-aan Island, 958
Chuen Island, 422
Chuen-pee, 978

INDEX.

1279

Chuen-pee Point, 980
Chuen-pi Island, 1084
Chuen-si-san. Island, 1135
Chuh-seu Island, 1071
Chukea Island, 1113

,, Island and Peak,
1081
Chu Kiang River, 979-990
Chuk-wan Islands, 956
Chulai Point, 411
Chu-lu-cock Island, 968
Chung-chau Island, 958
Chung-chau-si Island, 95S
Chung-chi Point, 1025

,, Island, 1048-

1049, 105 1
Chunghue Rock, 969
Chung Island, 962
Chung-Ian Island, 466
Chung-mun Island, 1074
Chung Point, iioo
Chun-Ian Harbour, 480
Chupa Island, 401
Church Point, 56S
Churmin Island and Rocks,

493
Chusan Archipelago, 1077-
1103
,, Island, 1083-10S9
Chus Peak, 1081
Chwang-pien Island, io6g
Cin Point, 411
Circe Bank, 898
,, Reef, 263
Cirencester Rock or Shoal,
276
,, Sandbank, 275

Citv of Carlisle Patch,

187
Clam Islet, 1027

,, Strait of, 347
Clarendon Bay, 525
Claret Rocks, 1063
Cleft Rock, 1066
Clemencia Reef, 288
Clements Channel, 227,

244-249
Cleopatra Island, 584

,, Needle Peak, 550,

551
Clermont Channel and

Port, 613
Cliff Head, 551
,, Island, 1028, 1073,

1074, 1078, 1 136
,, Islet, 562, 1015, 1091
,, Point, 540, 577
Cliffs Rock, 1089
Clifton Shoal, 186
Climate, Anamba Islands,
610
,, Canton, 989
„ Hong Kong, 964
,, Japan, 1165-1166
,, Liau-tung Gulf,

1130
,, Luzon, 926
,, Pechili Gulf, 1130

Climate, Pei-ho River,
1 148
,, Shanghai, 1125-

1126
,, Timor, 785

Clio Rock, 955

Clipper Road, 1012

Clotilde Breaker, 921
,, Rock, 918

Clove Islands, 829

Club Point, 1003

Clump Island, 306

Cluster Islands, 1087

Coal Harbour, 1047

Coal, Japan, 1236, 1239
,, Labuan, 495

Coast Hill, 571

,, Islet, 998, 1002

Cochin China, 428

,, Money, &c.,

1260-1262

Cochrane Cape, 1172

Cockburn Port, 1049

Cocked Hat Island, 1158

Cockeran Bank, 621

Cockscomb Mountains, 915

Cocoa-nut Bay, 433
,, Island, 177

,, Point, 171, 872

Cocos Islands, 893, 894

Cod Cape, 1140

Coffin Cape, 812
,, Island, 950
,, Mountains, 696

Coin Island, 1068

Coker Rock, 1020

Co-khien Ri\t;r, 430, 431

Colasi, 932

Colinton Island, 904

Collam Island and Strait,
120-123

Collao-Han Island, 455

Collao-ray Island, 454

Collier Head, 499
,, Rock, 172

Collingwood Shoal, 658

Collinson Cape, 1159

,, Cape and Light-
house, 992
,, Island, 583

Colnett Strait, 1170

Coloby Shoal, 541

Coloma Rock, 561

Colombo Shoal, 489

Colong Island and Strait,
120-123

Colonhogon Island, 558

Comara Shoal, 186

Combado Islands, 835

Columbrian Shoal, 262, 265

Columbia Shoal, 637

Columbine Beacon, 498-499

Columbus Shoal, 281

Comeeran Island and Chan-
nel, 535

Comet Rock, 1028

Commencement Bank, 250

Commodore Reef, 654

Comocutuan Island, 564

Comodo Island, 766, 768

Comus Rock, 987

Concordia Fort, 786

Condor Reef, 279, 414-415

Cone Hill, 1098
,, Island, 421, 514
,, Islet, 556, 1000
,, Peak, 1015
,, Rock, 1226

Coney Island and Light-
house, 361

Conflagration Hill, 554-555

Confusion Rock, 553

Congaltons Carr Rocks, 3S6,

391
Cong-hau River, 431
Conical Head, 552

,, Hill Island, 1079
,, Mountain, 451
,, Islet, 1251
Conic Isle, 995
Con-non Group, 429
Conqueror Bank, 1212
Constance Shoal, 307
Constancia Shoal, 576
Conway Island, 1079
Cony Island, io'52
Cook Channel, 579-580
Coolin Pappan Island, 494
Cooper Shoal, 257

,, Shoals, 250
Copper Rocks and Beacon,

203
Coral Bank, 159, 246, 667

,, Point, 549

,, Shoal, 579

,, Shoals, 658, 659
Coran Cape, 120
Corasone Rock, 1229
Cordelia Point, 547
,, Rock, 961
Cordillera Mountains, 926
Corea Rock, 1008
Coreas Reef, 692
Cork Point, 1016-1017
Corkers Rocks, 1076
Cormorant Inlet, 1233
Cornelia Road, 772
Cornwallis Fort, 109
Reef, 664
,, South Reef, 664

,, Stone, 1020

Corregidor Island and

Lighthouse, 596-599
Corsair Island, 851
,, Rock, 634
Corsyra Shoal, 278
Corumah Island, 1050
Costa Rica Rock, 1241,

1243
Coster Island, 857
Cota Batto, 897
Cotabatu, 897
Couabe Harbour, 449
Coucok Island, 949
Couding Island, 1059
Cou-mong Harbour, 452

1280

INDEX.

Courier Rock, 6ii, 867

Currents, Maurissa Strait,

Coventry Reef, 183

781

Cow Island, 444

,, Natuna Islands,

Cowman Bank, 297

616

Cowose Reef, 1170

,, St. Esprit Shoal,

Cow's Horn Peak, 1029

648

Crab Island, 1013

,, Sulu Sea, 917

,, Islet, 1063

„ Tsugar Strait,

Crack Islet, 1087

1248

Crag Peak, 1046

,, Yellow Sea, 1 130-

Craig Island, 1047

1131

Crate Island, 1071

Curtoy Creek, 141

Crawford Cove, 570

Custodio Point, 561

„ Point, 566

Cuyos Islands, 922-923

Crescent Island, 997

Cyclops Reef, 710

,, Islands and Reefs,

Cyrene Shoals, 358

644

Cyrus Harbour, 788

„ Reef, 660

Shoal, 280

Daat Island, 494, 499

Cresta de Gallo Island, 906

Daai Island, S39

,, Mountains,

Da-bia Rock, 450

915

Daendels Fort, 711, 712

Cresta Mount, 934

Daet River, 932

Crest of Wave Shoal, 885

Dagdap Point, 933

Cricket Island, 947

D'Aguilar Cape and Light-

Crimon Java Islands, 694-

house, 967, 992

696

Dahun Point, 202

Crocodile Rock, 300, 751

Da Jangan Island, 810

,, Shoal, 325, 327,

Daibo Saki, 11S9

331

Dai River, 460

Crooked Island, 997

Dai-thieu, 433

Crookshank Point, 483

Dalaguete Village, 907

Crown Islet, 562

Dalawan Bay, 523, 525

Cruizer Rock, 480

Dalhousie Pier and Lights,

,, Shallows, 1154

368

Cua Cam River, 461

Dalrymple Harbour, 890

Cua-dai River, 431, 432

Dalupiri Island, 936

Cua-lap River, 443

Damao Island, 559

Cuarteron Reef, 624-625

Damar, 120

Cuatieu River,430, 431, 432

Damas Bight, 721

Cucaracha Reef, 910

Damma Island, 838-S39

Cuckold Hill, 545

Dammer Island, 872

Cuernos Mount, 934

Damo Island, 559

Cui Point, 411

Dampar Bay, 720

Culebra Island, 602

Dampier Point, 579-580

Culion Island, 586-587

Strait, 862-865

Cumi-Cumi Island, 570

Damson Islands, 1078

Cum-sing-mun Harbour,

Damuma Islands and Reef,

954 .

810

Cupchi Point, 1006-1007

Dana Island, 777, 787

Curong Island, 483

Danes Island, 983

Currents, 25-32 (see Table

Dangerous Bank, 436-437

of Contents)

,, Rock, 1065, 1 133

,, Allor Strait, 781

Dangola, 807

,, Balabac Strait,

Dansborg Island, 1016

537

Dapoer Islet, 681-682

,, Banka Strait,

Dapur Island, 736

190-igi

,, Point and Islands,

,, Carimata Strait,

200

271-272

Darcotuan Bay and Point,

,, Crescent Islands

584

and Reefs, 645

,, Point, 566

,, Japan, 1192-1193

Date Island, 452

,, Java Sea, 181

Dato Island, 281

,, Macclesfield

„ Point, 338, 351

Channel, 239

Datu Point, 480

,, Mandarin's Cap

Daughter Hill, 822-823

Rock, 945

Dauilican, 934

Daumalong, 898
Daushon Cape, 461
Davaich Head, 447
David Point, 615
Davie Hill, 570
Dawelaar Island, 839
Dayak River, 739
Day Islet, 995
Dead Fish Bay, 381
Deadman Island, 1097
Deception Island, 859
Point, 568
Decrez Rock, 1229
Dedap Island, 339
Deep Bay, 575, 576

,, Point, 544, 545

,, Hole, 1155, 1157
Deepwater Point, 346, 369,

944-945
Deer Island, 1084, 1085
Defensie Fort, 822
De Gezusters Islands, 179
De Hes Rock, 299
Delhi River and Shoal, 143-

144
Delhi Bay, 790
Delian Island, 924
De Monnik Rock, 154
Dempoe Island, 763
Den Briel Shoal, 288
Deoto Bato Island, 889
Depond Reef, 414
Deptford Shoal, 750
Dequez Island, 93S
Derde Point, 159

,, Point and Beacon,
194
Desie Islands, 340
De Sima, 1239
Dessa Island, 323
Deva Reef, 268
Devil Point, 1003
Devil's Cap Peak, 545

,, Island, 805

,, Peak, 966
Devonport Rock, 618-619
De Vries Cape, 1199
Dezima, 1163, 1166
Dhaulle Shoal, 625
Dialao Point, 605
Diamond Point, 141-142
Diana Cove, 385

,, Reefs, 617

,, Rock, 129

„ Shoal, 393
Dian Island, 339
Diaphila Island, 566
Dibuluan Island, 564
Dicabaito Island, 587
Dichilem Rock, 58S
Didicas Rocks, 937
Diederika Shial, 262
Dieley River, 739
Dielli, 789-791
Diente Point, 555, 556
Dieroesoe, 784
Dike Islet, 1073
Dile Point, 604

INDEX.

1281

Dili Island, 873 Directions,

Dilli, 7S9-791
Dimipac Island, 587-588
Binding Island, 114-116
River, 116-117
Dingala Gulf. 933
Dinh-nan River, 431
Dmigat Island, goo
Diogo Island, 939
Dioyu Reef, 1014
Dipio Islet, 1063
Dipulul Islands, S92
Direction Island. 305
Directions, Akashi Strait,
1211

,, Amboina to

Java, 792

,, Baly Strait,

753-754
„ Banguey South

Channel,
521-522
„ Bataviato Sou-

rabaya, in
the Eastern
Monsoon,
688
„ Batavia toSou-

rabaya, inthe
Western
Monsoon,
6S6-687 _
„ Blenheim i^as-

sage, 986-987
„ Borneo, West

Coast of, 286
,, Broadway En-

trance, Can-
ton Rivers,

950-951
„ Canton River,

971-979
„ Carimata

Strait, 292-

294
,, Clements Chan-

nel, 248-249
,, Durian Strait,

350-356
,, Formosa,

North - West

Coast, 1042-

1043

,, Gaspar Strait,

268-270
., Gilolo Passage,

871 I

„ Japan, S.E.

Coast, 1181
,, Java Sea, 737-

738
,, Labuan to the

Palawan, 500
,, Lintin to the

Boca Tigris,
Canton
River, 976-
978

Makassar |
Strait, 807-
808

Manila to
Iloilo, 914-

915
Nagasaki to

Simonoseki,

I 24 I- I 244
Nipon, East

Coast, 1200 '
Passing Shan- i

tung Pro- I

m o n t o r y,

1139-1140
Philippine Is- I

lands, 913- !

915 . I

Rhio Strait,

326-334
Sarawak River,

480
Simon o seki

Strait, 1221-

1222, 1224
Singapore

Strait, 364-

366,390-392,

395-399

Singapore
Strait to Tan-
jong Api,
Borneo, 312

Sourabaya to
Batavia, in
the Eastern
Monsoon.
687-688

Sourabaya to
Batavia, in
the Western
Monsoon,
687

Strait of Sunda,
179-180

Through Blen-
heim Passage
to Canton,
986-987

Through Fan-
si-ak Chan-
nel to Canton
River, 978-

979

Through Great
West Chan-
nel to Canton
River, 974-
976

Through Lan-
tao Channel
to Canton
River, 972-

973
Through Rhio
Strait to Sin-
gapore, 326-
334

Directions, Through Tai-
ta-mi Chan-
nel to Can-
ton, 973-974
,, Yangtse Kiang

River,

iiii

1117
Yung

River,
1099-1100
Disaster Cape, 524
Discovery Bank, 5S9

„ East Bank, 275

,, Great Reef, 625

„ Reef, 275

,, Rocks, 235, 242

,, Shoal or Reef

643
,, Small Reef, 625-

626
West Bank, 275
Dit Island. 923
Ditloffs Reef, 316,328
Diyi Island, 1204, 1207
Djailolo. 871, 873
Djambu Ayer Creek, 142
Djellei River, 739
Djimaja Island, 611
Djimpa Creek, 140
Djino Sima, 1204
Djoeroh Dajong Rocks, 274
Djolokh River, 142
Djong Pakis Point, 721
Doandoenganbezaar Island.

797
Doandoenganketjil Island,

797
Doang Island, 817
Dobbo Harbour, 842, 844-

846
Docan Island, 296
Doc-can Island, 8S9
Dock Islet, 1020
Dodd Island, 1021
Dodingo Bay, 874
Dodol, 750
Doffer Islands, 771
Dog Island, 782
,, Islands and Light-
house, 1030-1031
,. Rock, 458
Doif Islands, 870
Doi-moi Island, 450
Dol Island, S50
Dolphin Island, 345

Rock, 185
Dolphin's Nose Point, 828
Domakura Saki, 1174
Dome Bay, 1053
,, Hill, 573, 1008
,, Island, 583, 1013
„ Peak, 1036
,, Point, 1034
Domino Hill, 300
Domisil Bay, Sii
Dompa Island and Reef. 321
Dompo Bay, 763
Doncan Island, 353
Donda Cape, 807

8 A

1282

INDEX.

Donda Point, 8io

Dondo Cape, 807
,, Islets, 810

Dondrekin Eiland, 800

Don-nai River, 432-439

Donson, 928

Doodkisten Mountains, 696

Doodkist Hills, 687

Doorly Shoals, 534

Do-saki, 1234

Dos Hermanas Islands, 925

Dot Rock, 1013

Doua Rock, 616

Double Head, 424
„ Hill, 476, 1 189
,, ,, Point, 477

„ Island, 292, 545,

lOIO

„ Island and Haven,

997
,, Peak Island, 1064
„ ,, Mountain,

1034
„ Reach, 1151, 1152
„ Rock, 1141
,, Rocks, 1 173
„ Tree Hill, 304
,, Yit Island, 1028

Doub Rock, 1089

Doubtful Rock, 620

Doulan Laut Island, 847-
848

Douraij Island, 611-612

Dourga Strait, 855

Douw Island, 787

Dove Islands, 870
,, Rock, 1009-1010

D Point, 439

Drake Peak, 578

Dramaai Island, 856

Dree Cap Peninsula, 857

Drie Breeders Islands, 825

Drinkwater Point, 1106

Druid Head, 1022
,, Island, 1081

Drummond Island, 644

Dry North Island, 1105
,, Sandbanks, 578

Dua Island, 324
,, Islands, 340, 674

Duang Island, 8S1-882

Duaud Bank, 741

Du Bus Fort, 856

Duchong Islands, 405

Duffield Pass and Reef, 1078

Duff Rock, 981

Dugay Trouin Reef, 939

Duiven Island and Light-
house, 749-750. 754

Duizend Eilanden, 736

Damages River, 933

Dumali Point, 924

Dumangas Punta, gii

Dumanquilas, Puerto de,
898

Dumaran and Island, 578-

579
Dumaran Island, 567

Dumbell Bay, 999

,, Island, 583
Dumb Island, 1097
Dumpo Strait, 339, 342
Duncan Islands, 644
Dune Island, 449
Dunsterviile Islands and

Rocks, 1087
Duo Bolod Rocks, 890
Duperre Islands, 619
Duperrey Port, 863
Durangan Island, 558
Durian Islands, 343-344,

352,355
,, Sabatang, 118

,, Strait, 334-356

D'Urville Port, 863
Dutch Channel, 675-677
,, Churchyard Islands,

673

,, Folly Island, 986

,, Gut, 777, 780
Point, 789

,, Shoal, 262, 265, 269,
320-321, 330
Duurstede Fort, 828
Dwaal Bay, 814
Dwaalder Island, 794
Dwars in den Weg Island,

163
Dyak, 299

Dyamnang Rocks, 700
Dyampea Island, 773
Dyang Islet, 403
Dyenee Cape, 816
Dyuruh Bank, 275

Ears Rock, 1139
Earthquakes, Japan, 1166-

1167
East and West Channel, 127
Bank, 315, 328
Bastaard Island, 771
Bay, 1225

Brother Island, 417
Cape, Boeton, 814
Cone, 997

Domino Island, 300
Eastern Bank, 216,343, 3^8
,, Channel and

Buoys, 700
„ Channels, Batavia,

682-684
,, Sea, 1128
East Gat, Banda, 832
,, Guhuan Island, 528

n Hill, 515

„ Island, 277, 413, 570,

1052
„ Islet, 1082
,, London Reef, 624
„ Peak, 566, 584
,, Rock, 125, 1240
,, Saddle Island, 1093
„ Sandspit, 1141
,, Spit Beacon, 1155-

1156
,, Volcano Island, 1092

Ebeling Shoal, 305-306
Ebisu Jima, 1208
Ebul Island, 308
E-chau Head, 960
Echun Island, 467
Edam Island, 682, 737, 797
Eddy Island, 1140
Edeling Shoals, 184
Eden Island, 1161
Edie Besaar River, 142
Edmond Mount, 1016
Eendragt Shoal, 714
Eerste Point, 192
,, Punt, 154
Elbe Harbour and Island,

858
Efmatal Island, 859
Egg Sand, 569
Eighteen Yits Islands, 1027,

1028
Elbow Bank, 656
Eldad Reef, 627
El Diamante Rock, 904
Elephant Island, 582, 1079,
1081, 1084
,, Mountain, 140

Elet Shoal, 587
Eleven Islands, 255
El Frayle Island, 597
El Gran Cordillera Moun-
tains, 926
Elizabeth Point, 543

,, Reef, 1168-1169

Ella Island and Shoals, 854
Ellen Bangka Shoal, 420
EUicott Island, 1092
Elliot Islets, 1095

„ Passage, 987, 988

,, Sand, 290
Ellis Shoal, 533
Elmstone Rock, 11S4
Elpapoetie Bay, 854
Elphinstone Rock, 618
Elvira Mount, 108
Emanuel Reef, 414
Embleton Island and Rock,

230-231
Emergency Point, 554
Emily Anina Islet, 799
Emmeline Island, 571
Emmit Island, 566
Emperor of China Rock, 835
Ena Gawa River, 12 10
Encampment Head, 525
Encounter Rock, 1159
Endeavour Island, 553
„ Point, 578

,, Strait, 557

Ende Bay and Island, 775

,, Island, 769-779
Endermo, 1253, 1254
End Island, 1136
Endjung Creek, 140
Engano Mount, 934
Eniaran Island, 558
Enkhuizen Island, 682
Enoe Island, 494, 497-498
Enora Bank, 717

INDEX.

1283

Eno Ura Harbour and Bay,

1178
Entalula Island, 563
Entrance Head, 1221

,, Point, 232, 234,

240
,, Reef, 556
Epervier Mountain, 451
E Point, 435, 439
Erabou Island, 1050
Eran Bay and River, 543

,, Point, 542

„ Quoin Hill, 542-543
Erfprins Fort, 700
Erikson Shoal, 280
Erl King Shoal, 1017
Erne Rock, 1058
Erratatsi Cape, 1195
Escape Creek, 9S3
Escollo del Pinaculo, 5S7
Espiritu Santo Cape, 904
Esprit Shoal, 647-648
Etna Bay, 856

,, Shoal, 736
Eulo Rocks, 407
Euphrates Shoal, 649
Euphrosine Rock, 288
Europe Shoal, 310
Eurum Cape, 731
Euryalus Bay, 1232

,, Rock, 1202
Evans Reef, 278
Evelyn Cape, 1133, 1134
Everlasting Point, 1157
E-wi-ig River, 573-574
Expedition Bay, 1036-1037
Eye Island, 870
Eyoe Island, 167

Faber Mount, 377
Fai-foh River, 455
Fair Channel Bank, 134
Fairlie Rock, 230
Fairway Ledge, 868

,, Rock, 116

,, Shoal, 519-520,
522
Fairy Queen Shoal, 656,

667
Fakew Island, 1068
Fall Island, 1072

„ Peak, 1015
Falmouth Bank, 923
False Barbukit Hill, 385,

Bintang Hill, 392
Cape, 855
Collao Island, 454
Binding Hills, 114
Doodkist Hills, 687
Durian Island, 343,

351
First Point, 193
Hook, 158
Parcelar Hill, iig
Pisang Island, S58
Point, igS, 480
Pulo Obi, 415-416

False Rocky Point, 234
,, Saddle Island, 1093
,, St. John Island, 946
,, Sharp Peak, 543
„ Sugarloaf Hill, 234
,, Suggur Hills, 114
,, Tinhosa Island, 480
,, Utanata River, 855
,, Varela Cape, 447
„ Wakia River, 856
Fancy Wreck Shoal, 664
Fan-lo-kong Harbour, 999
Fan-shee-ak Rock, 945
Fan-si-ak Island, 970
Farmer Rock, 1067
Fatal Island and Reef, 177
Fathool Barrie Shoal, 261
Fat-shan. 990
Fatsizio Island, 1193-1194
Fatukama Point, 790
Favourite Rock, 894
Feringi Rock, 109
Fielon Island, 1065
Fiery Cross Reef, 625
Fietze-loong Bay, 465
Figure Rock, 1006
Finger Rock, 1141
Firase Reef, 11 70
Fir Cone Rock, 1071
First Bar Island, 983, 985
,, Point, 192, 220
,, Point and Lighthouse,

154
,, Thomas Shoal, 665
Fisher Island, 131, 860, 863,
1051, 1053-1054,
1087
„ Islands, 448, 449
Fisherman Island, loio

„ Rock, I 146, 1205,

1219
Fisherman's Islands and

Rocks, 1090-1091
Fish-house Beacon, 1156
Fitz Maurice Shoal, 859
Five Islands, 720, 935-936,

947-948
Flag Island, 1029
Flagstaff Beacon, 1156
Flak Islands, 1024
Flap Island, 1064
Flask Island, 1068
Flat Island, 571, 577-578,
616, 664, 761, 781,
1081
,, Islet, 1059
,, Point, 166, 477, 739,

798. S53
,, Reet, 1008
,, Rock, 418, 558, 563,

1004, io5i
,, Rocky Point, 1139
Flies Rocks, 949
Flora Temple Reef, 626
Florence Adelaide Reef, 279
Floris Head, 771-772
,, Island, 769-779
,, Strait, 778

Fly Bank, 301, 327

Flying Cloud Rock, 592

Fly Islands, 776

Fog Islands, 1102

Fokai, 1228

,, Point, looo-iooi

Foki Point, 1045

Fong-ho Island, 1064

Foochow, 941, 1060

Foong-kye-chye Island, 943

Formosa Bank, 434

,, East Coast of,

1034-1035
,, Island, 1032-1047
,, Mount and River,

133
,, North Coast of,

1044- 1047
,, Rock, 497
,, Shoal, 133
,, West Coast of,
1036-1044
Forsaken Island, 173
Fort Head, 1158
Forth Shoal, 637
Fort Island, 1012
Fortun Island, 594
Fotaumun Pass, 993
Foul Island, 863, 864
Foullioy Cape, 857
Four - and - T hree- Quarters

Fathoms Bank, 194
Four Brothers Bank, 709

,, Islands, 132-

133
Four-Feet Rock, 958
Four Peak Mountains, 234

„ Peaks, 551

„ Sisters Rocks, 1090
Fourth Point and Banks,

,, Point and Lights,
161
Fow Island, 869-870
Fox Shoal, 288
F Point, 435
Frakaki Island, 458
Franklin Bank, 796
Eraser Island, 575-576
Frederick Hendrick Rocks
and Channels,
213-214
,, Hendrick Shoal,

222
,, Reef, 301

,, Hendrik Island,

855
French Creek, 986
,, Passage, 870
,, Rocks, 620
Freshwater Bay, 292

„ Bay and Point,

453
Island, 359
Friar Island, 597

,, Rock, 154
Friar's Hood Mountain, 853
„ Rocks, 154

1284

INDEX.

Friendly Islands, iioo
Friendship Shoal, 650, 651
Frio Rocks, 1062
Front Island, 1076
Fuchau Fu, 1060
Fu-chu Point and Bay, 1158
Fuego Point, 594
Fuegos Island, go8
Fuga Island, 936
Fuh-ning and Bay, 1064,

1065
Fuh-yan Island, 1065
Fukuda Saki, 1238
Fuk Ura, 1204
Fukushe Rock, 1241, 1243
Fuku Ura Harbour and

Light, 1221
Fukuye, 1228
Fullerton Fort, 368
Fulton Rock, 597
Fung Bay, 995
Fungwha River, 1077
Fungung, 465
Funing Island, 1091
Furious Shoals, 510
Fury Rocks, 652
Fusan, 1161

Fushiki and Light, 1246
Fusi Jama Mountain, 1166
Fusinotsu, 1234
Fusi Yama Mountain, 1178,

1181
Futako Sima, 1236
Fu-to Island, 1078
Futo Saki, 1180
Futsu Saki Point, 1189

Gaalong Bay, 471, 478-479
Gadd Rock, 1032-1033
Gadia Point, 731
Gading Rocks, 402
Gadong Hill, 201
Gage Port, 1049
Gagy Island, 870
Gain-Bai Point, 452
Galang Island, 315
Galatea Shoal, 1212
Galbraith Hill Point, 987
Galera, Puerto, 924
Galewo Strait, 860
Galioen Island, 706
Galoc Island, 587
Gamaca, 933
Gambang Point, 732
Gamen Island, 863
Gamien Strait, 862-865
Gan-ching Rocks, 1089
Ganda Head, 511
Ganges North Reef, 664

,, Reef, 664
Ganh Ray Bay and River,

432, 433
Gan-su Island, 1091
Gantang Island, 401
Gantung Peak, 542
Gap Islet, 1067

,, of Padaran, 446

„ of Vigan, 604

Gap Range, 545

,, Rock, 175, 310, 959
Gardiner Island, 570
Garras Islands, 315-316,

333
Garza Bay and Shoal,

590

Gasap Point, 510

Gaspar Island, 239, 268
,, Strait, 227-270

Gasses Island, 866

Gassing River, 198

Gate, 929

Gau-tau Island, 995, 1072

Gauze Island, 957

Gaven Reefs, 627

Gaya Group and Bay, 504
,, Head, 505

Gayong Point, 762

Gay-une Island, 959

Gazan, 925

Gebang Point, 735
,, Rocks, 401

Gebeh Island, 869

Gebi Island, 869

Gebos Reef, 722

Gebroeders Islands, 794

Gedee Peak, 671

Gedeh, 789

Geefou Island, 981

Geeit Island, 404

Gelam Island, 289

Gelassa Rock, 239

Geldria Bank, 302-303

Gemah Bay, 721

Gemeles Islands, 566

Gemen Strait, 862-865

Gemer Rock, 707

Gempoe Inlet, 763

Genang Island, 760

General Elliott Reefs, 261
Genkai Nada, 1242
Genting, 707
George and Abercrombie

Shoal, 650, 651
George Banks, 233
,, Island, 961
,, Town, 109
Germantown Reef, 1169
Gesir Island, 852
Gezonken Fort, 711, 712
Ghibu Isi Rock, 1189
Ghissa Island, 852
Gichen Creek, 140
Gide Isles, 857
Gierie Mount, 698
Gigang Ketchil Island, 307
Gigantes Islands, 910
Gigchen River, 139
Gilbert Rocks, 290
Gilboan Lland and Light-
house, 749-750
Giliang Island, 705-706
Gili Banta Island, 766
Gilingan Island, 707
Giliting, 771
Gilla Island, 308
Gillies Island, 622

Gilolo, 873

,, Island, 871-872
,, Passage or Strait,
867-871
Gimenez Island, 583
Gin Island, 319

,, Peak, 302
Gintang Island, 707
Ginting Island, 290
,, Point, 224
Gipdo Island, 899, 900
Glacis Point, 1158
Glasgow Bank, 665
Glassa Rock, 239
Glean Island, 694
Glengyle Rock, 1014
Glissong Island, 803
Gloria Reef, 620
Gloucester Shoal, 664
Gnat Reef, 523
Gneu Island, 458
Goa River, 805

,, Island, 709
Goat Island, 457, 580, 593,
1003
,, Shoal, 261
Goche, 1041
Goela Island, 789
Goendel Mount, 744
Goenong Cape, 692

,, Gedeh Moun-
tains, 678
,, Island, 720
Goenting Island, 251
Goerong Islands, 291
Golconda Shoal, 922
Golden Dragon Mountrun,

943

,, Mount, 137

,, Rock, 1205
Goldmine Island and Light,

1198
Golo Island, 592
Goma Goma Point, 140
Gomboyok Rocks, 729
Gomo Gomo Island, 846
Gomok Point, 788

,, River, 716
Gomona Island, 866
Go No Ura, 1244
Good Hope, Cape of, 1009-

lOIO

Goo Rock, 1016
Gooswa Promontory, 1036
Goram Islands, 85 1
Gorda Point, 913
Gordon Bay, 1066

,, Island, 1062

,, Shoals, 500
Gore Island, 1073
Gorontalo and Gulf, 8og,

812-813
Gorts Island, 174
Gossong Point, 201
Goten Yama, 1188
Goto Cape, 1228

,, Islands, 1224-1229
Gough Hill, 986

INDEX.

1285

Gough Island, 1120
,, Pass, 1078

Gow-tow Island, 465-466

Goza Harbour, 1175

Grace Reefs, 272-273

Gradjagan Bay, 719

Graham Bluff, 1186

Grainger Bank, 621

Grain Island, 1088

Gran Cuyo Island, 922-923

Grande Island, 600

Grass Island, 996, 1105

Great Abang Island, 341-
342
,, Arroa Island, 125
,, Bamboo Island, 1145
,, Banda Island, 829-

831
,, Bank, 315, 328
,, Bastaard Island, 771
Bay, 429, 632-633,

944
,, Canary Island, S58
„ Cape, 477
,, Carimon Island, 136,

347.

,, Catvvick Island, 638

,, Channel, 156

,, Danger Bank, 532

,, Dayak River, 739

,, Domino Island, 300

,, Durian Island, 344

,, Gain Island, 866

,, Garras Island, 316

,, Geelvink Bay, 857

,, Hog Island, 706

,, Island, 302, 319

„ Ki Island, 846-847

,, Kombuis, 672

,, Kra Flat and Buoys,

III

,, Ladrone Island, 954

,, Lelei Shoal, 804

,, Lelij Shoal, 804

,, Merak Island, 164

,, Nangka Island, 205

,, Natuna Islands, 618-

620

,, Paternoster Islands,

820

,, Pulo Gasses, 866
,, ,, Laut, 794

,, Rock, 750-751

,, Rusukan Island, 494,

497
,, Solombo Island, 738
,, Tambelan Island,

308
,, Tawalie Island, 878
,, Wall of China, 1153-

1154
,, Wizard Rock, 949
,, Yangtse Bank, 1106
Cireen Head, 559, 1136
,, Island,3o6, 337, 578,
587,746,780-
781, 966, 999
.. Bay, 575, 577

Green Island Lighthouse,

963
;, Islands, 577
,, Islet, 995, loio
,, Point, 192, 579, 946

Greig Channel, 292

Shoal, 280-281

Greyhound Strait, 822

Griffin Rock, 996
,, Rocks, 894

Grissee and Light, 701
,, Mount, 699

Grisse Island, 290

Groen Island, 746

Groenwout Island, 835

Groote Bank, 315

Groots Rock, 751

Grosvenor Bank, 860

Guagua, 935

Guardhouse Island, 1085

Guaricha Islands, 877

Gubat, 930

Gubung Island, 539

Gudin Island, 857

Guerite Rock, 612

Guhuan Islands, 527-528

Guia Fort and Light, 952'

Guiechow Island, 468,
469

Guimaras Island, 908, 911

Guinapae Rocks, 937

Guinayan, 928

Guintungauan Island, 563

Guio Point, 445

Gulai, 1026

Gula Island, 789

Gull Island, 1079
,, Point, 1040
,, Rock, 252
,, Sand, 569

Gunong Agoeng, 742

,, Api, 764, 792, 832,

836
,, Balik Papan, 800
,, Baloeran Volcano,

749

,, Batu Pahat, 133

,, Beginda, 251

,, Bolo, 251, 257

,, Buboo, 112

,, Chundong, 226

,, Gondol, 744

,, Karakan, 873

,, Kwas, 302

,, Ledang, 132

,, Loempoe, 802

,, Loros, 714

,, Manombing, 207

,, Maradi, 225

,, Marass, 725, 260 i

,, Ratoos, 740 j

,, Sandan, 744

,, Seebeloeng, 794

,, Seraja, 746

,, Sodara Peak, 812 l

,, Tebalo, 251 j

Guntao Islands, 562 |

Guntur Rock, 707 |

Gunung Malu Mountain,

489
Gurbo Island, 900
Gutzlaff Island, 1102

,, Island and Light,
1096, 1108, 1115

Haai Shoal, 315, 342
Haarlem Island, 682
Habushi Iwa Rock, 1212
Hachi Gaune Yama, 1215
Hadagase Rock, 1237
Haddington Port, 1050
Hadji Reef and Buoy, 209-

210
Hae Head, 1030
Hagi Chiofu, 1219
Haian Bay, 470
Haidomari Bay, 1227
Haidong, 462
Hai-Dzc^uong, 461
Hai Head, 1029
Haikao, 469, 473
Hai-k'ow, 473-476
Hai-ling Harbour, 944
Hai-ling-shan Harbour,

944-945
Hai-Loong Rock, 1007
Haimun, 1072
Hai-mun Bay and Point,

1009
Hainan Head and Island,
471-472, 475
,, Strait, 469
Haiphong, 428, 461, 462
Hai-tan Island and Strait,

1028-1029
Hai-yang, 1137
Haiyina Sissie, 785
Hai-yun Tau Island, 11 60
Haka Se Shoals, 1176
Hakata Sima, 1216
Hak-chau Island, 957
Hakodadi, 1166, 1253, 1254
,, Harbour and

Light Vessel,
1250-1251
Hakodate, 1165

,, Harbour and

Light Vessel,
1250-1251
Hako Sima, 1241
Half-Channel Shoal, 515
Half-Moon Shoal, 654-655
Half-Tide Reef, 1014

,, Rock, 1074-1075

,, ,, and Bea-

con, 1059
Hall Island, 1091
Hall's Reef, 1168
Halmaheira Island, 871-872
Halu-shan Bay, 1129
Hamana Inlet, 1177
Hamanaka, 1253, 1254
Hamatt, 459
Hamilton Creek, 987
,, Point, 1050

,, Port, 1162

1286

INDEX.

Hamo Bank, 1221
Hana Mura, 1212
Hana-rete, 1184
Hancock Island, 258

,, Shoal, 229, 244
Hand Bay, 1159
Haneda Point and Light-
house, 1188
Hangata, 1214
Hang-chu Fu, 1103
Hankow, 941, 989, 1104,

1126
Hannah Shoal, 133, 799
Hanoi, 428, 461, 463
Han River, loio, 1127
Han-san Bay, 455
Hans Reef, 415
Hantu Island, 376
Haon Bai Kan Island, 632
,, Cao Island, 633
,, Lap Island, 632
,, Tae Island, 633
,, Tai-leunglslandj633
,, Trap Island, 633
Happoix Cape, 454
Harbour Island, 308, 574,
996
,, Islands and

Rocks, 1000
,, Rock, 1020, 1047

,, Rouse, 1076, 1079

,, Shoal and Bea-

con, 498
Hard Sandbank, 725
Hardy Harbour, 1227-1228
Hare's Ears Islands, 894
Harima Nada, 1211
Harlem Bay, 998, looi
Hartey Island, 1089
Hart Rock, 1013
Haruku Island, 828
Hashi Hama Harbour, 1214
Ha Sima Island, 1185
Hasingui, 1173
Hastings Island, 585, 710

,, Rock, 705
Hasyokan Island, 1049
Hatien, 416
Hat Island, 467

,, Islet, 1003
Hato Saki, 1241
Ha-tse Island, 1084
Hau-giang River, 430
Hau Island, 453
Hauseu Island, 1022
Havock Islands, 123 1
Hawcheun, 948

,, Island, 946

Hawkins Shoal, 268
Haya Saki, 1229
Haycock Hills, 251

,, Island, 587, 991
,, Island and Rock,

883
,, Rock, 597
Hazama Hill, 1190

,, Mura, 1175
Hea-che-mun Channel, 1080

Hea-chu Island, 1071
Head Island, 306
Heang Keang Island, 963
Hea-ta Island, 1071
Hebe Island, 1078

,, Islet, looi

,, Reef, io6i
Heber Reef, 1168
Hector Bank, 287
Heda Bay, 1178
Hegadis Island, 835
Helang Island, 879
Helena Bank, 894
Helen Mars Reef, 350, 353

,, Rock, 183

,, Shoal, 648
Helinet Island, 291
Hen and Chickens Islands,

797
Hen and Chickens Rocks,

547
Hen and Chicks Rocks, 1095
Hendrik Jan Rock, 319
Henry Rocks, 1028
Henty Reef, 1170
Heong-po, 477
Heong-san Port, 1042
Herbert Island and Port,

1049
Hercules Shoal, 798
Herefordshire Shoal, 656
Hermanas Islands, 602
Heroine Rock, 1073

,, Shoal, 250, 273
Heron Point, 573
Herschel Island, 1162
,, Mount, 546
Herten Island, 744
Hesketh Shoal, 859
Hesper Rock, 1146
Het Wapen Van Hoorn

Eilanden, 680-681
Hewitt Shoal, 246, 259
Hidaka Kawa, 1206
Hie-che-chin Bay, 1004-

1006
Hier Harbour, 846
Hieri Island, 873, 876
Hieshan Islands and Rocks,

1072-1073
Higashi Peak, 1215
High Bank, 277

,. Cape, 1009

,, Double Mountain,

1134
,, Island, 176-177, 253,
402, 552, 587-588,
614, 778, 782, 987,
994-995. 1052,

1053
,, Lamock Island and

Lights, 1013
,, Point, 577
,, Rock, 125, 639-640
Hijiki Sima Island, 1205
Hiki Sima, 1221, 1242
Hiku Flat, 1221, 1222
Hill Islet, 957

Hillsborough Rock, 261-262

Hilly Cape, 409

Himamaylan, 908

Hime Sima, 1218, 1229

Hin-ai-eorp Rock, 422

Hin Chalan Rock, 422

Hindostan Bank, 220
,, Rock, 175

Hirio Misaki Cape, 1206
,, Yama, 1221
)) ,1 Hill, i2o5

,, ,, Peak, 1220

Hiogo, 1 165, 1209-1210

Hiotan Jima, 1216

Hippogriffe Shoal, 229

Hippomenes Rock, 342

Hirado Strait, 1241-1243

Hira Iso Rocks, 1210

Hirase Rock, 1235

Hira Sima, 1198, 1227, 1244

Hirose Rocks, 1214

Hiro Sima, 1212, 1216

Hirowatali Bay, 1205

Hisakajima, 1227

Hishiwo Bank, 1238

Hi Sima, 1236, 1239

Hitoe, 824

Hitu, 824

Hoage Rock, 1226, 1243

Hoa-ock Island, 956

Hoa-pin-su Island, 1047-
1048

Hockie Island, 777

Hodge Rock, 1226

Hoedeken Rock, 156

Hogian Island, 847

Hog Island, 578
,, Point, 171, 176

Hoi-How, 428, 469, 473-476
,, Bay and Point,

473
Hoita Harbour, 477
Hokeang Island, 1056
Hokeen Island, 1069
Holderness Rock, 1075
Hole Island, 995
Holland Bank, 640
Holmes Shoal, 656
Hombo Bight, 723
Horn-Co Islands, 453
Honam Point, 983
Hon-cau, 446
Hon Cohe Bay, 449
Hondau Island and Light-
house, 462, 464
Honden Island, 782
Hone Gome Bight, 450
Hong-hai Bay and Island,

1002-1003
Hongkew, 11 23
Hong Kong, 963-967

,, Village, 1037

Hong-san-ki Hill, 1042
Honimoa Island, 828
Hon-na-mi, 1199
Hon-ngai Island, 448
Hon-noi Island, 448
Honque, 1124

INDEX.

1287

Hoofd Reef, 805
Hooghly Rocks, 279
Hoog Island, 253, 257, 778,

818
Hook Islands, 1086
Hooper Island, 1161
Hoorn Island, 797

,, Islands, 672, 680-
681, 736
Hoosheak Hill, 470
Hoo-wei, 1043
Hope Bay, 1009

,, Sound, 1 145, 1146
Hopkins Bank, 636, 637
Horadada Rocks, 931
Horie Mount, 825
Horner Mount, 1171

,, Point, 1231
Horn Mount, 562
Horsburgh Lighthouse,

388-389, 397
Horse Shoal, 261
Horse-shoe Rock, 1134
Hosono Bay, 1207
Hoso Sima, 1215

,, ,, Harbour, 1172
Hossack Shoals, 608
Hot Island, 457
Hotspur Shoal, 644
Houblan Islands, 1088
Houki Island, 1146
Hou Point, 1053
House Cliff, 591

,, Hill Point, 1017

,, Island, iioi, 1105,
1 109

,, Rock, 407
Hout Island, 176-177
Howard Shoal, 406
Howley Island, 577
Hovvqua Shoal, 306
How-sui Bay, 476
Hsin-shai-kau Creek, 1153
Hue-Fo River, j.55-456
Hue River, 455-456
Hughes Shoal, 311
Hui-ling-san Harbour, 944-

945
Huisman Island, 174
Hu-i-tau Bay, 1024
Huledebongo Point, 810
Hulu Shan Bay, 1158-1159
Hummock Island, 1050,
105 1
Point, 543
Hummocks Hills, 476
Hump Island, 863
Hunchback Hills, 994 -
Hungry Rock, 1237
Hungtse Lake, 1131
Hungwha Channel and

Sound, 1027-1028
Hunters Islands, 1077
Hunter Shoal, 588
Hussa Point, 735
Hutau Island, 1069
Hu-tau-shan Head, 1016
Hut Island, 1081

Hutton Reefs, 617
Hutung Point and River,

1006
Hwafung, 462
Hwangching Islands, 1146
Hwangkwa Island, 1019
Hwangpu River, 11 17
Hyaku Island, 1213
,, Kuan, 1215
Hydrograf Rock, 274

lalan Rock, 6S2
lapara Road, 694-696
Iba, 601

Ibabao Island, 902
Ibayat Island, 939
Ibelbel Island, 559
Ibesso, 1247
Ibo Point, 1245
Ibugos Island, 938
Ibul Island, 401
Ichang, 1104
Ichinomaki River, 1197
Ichi-no-tani Yama, 1210
Ida Shoal, 767
Idjing Mount, 749
Idsu Cape and Light, 1178,
1181
,, Peninsula, 1164, 1178
Idzumi Islets, 1242
Igama Bay, 1244
Iguana Bank, 911
Iguano Island, 583
Ije Labu Creek, 140
Ikan Mount, 750, 752
Iki Sima, 1242
Ikutski, 1242
Ilacaon Island, 910
Ilara Hummock, 605
Ilchester Bank, 297
Iligan, Bahia de, 899
Ilimandri Peak, 778
Ilim Island and Point, 590-

591
Illaan Hill, 542
Illana Bay, 807
Ulan and River, 578
Hoc, 908

,, Island, 584
Iloilo, 895, gio-915

,, River and Beacons.
912
Imabari, 1213
Image Island, 1045
Imbeah Bay, 378

,, Mount, 371
Imbong Mount, 181
Imuruan Bay and Island,

554

Inaboye Saki and Light-
house, 1 196

Inanam River, 504

Inclined Rock, 654

Incog Islands, 1065

Indau River, 405

Indong Island, 581

Indragirie River, 338

Indramayoe, 671, 687

Indramayoe Point, 690
Inflexible Reef, 1046
Ingaran Island, 493
Ingar Island, 851
Ingersoll Rocks, 1171
Inglefield Island, 1049
Inland Sea, Japan, 1201-

1224
Inlulutoc Bay, 555
Innang Island and Reef,

317
,, Islands, 329
Inner Bank, 210

,, Bar and Signals,
Wusung R., 1119-
1120
,, Beacon, 499
,, Channel, 216, 390,

403
,, Harbour, Amboina,

828
„ Sound, 555
,, Westerly Channel,

675-677
,, Wizard Rock, 949
In-no Sima, 1216
Ino Ura Bay, 1212
Inside Island, 1003, 1063

,, Islet, 950
Insular Point, 1099
Investigator North-East

Shoal, 665
Investigator North-West

Reef, 625
Investigator Shoal, 665
lot Point, 931
Irada Mount, 938
Irako Saki, 1176, 1177
Irene Rock, 339
Iris Strait, 856
Iron Cape, 771-772

,, Island, 1159
Iro-o Saki Cape and Light.

1178, 1181
Isaac Island, 1049
Isabela Harbour, 893
Isabella Bank, 333
., Shoal, 323
Isaki and Light, 1218

,, Point, i2o5
Isa Saki, 1172
Isere Rocks, 1022, 1023
I Sima, 1203
Iskarri River, 1253
Island Bay, 570
Isla Verde, 587
Islote Culebra, 602
Isonosu Hill, 1246
Isthmus Island, 1063, 1082
Isuma Nada, 1165
Isumi Nada, The, 1208
,, Strait and Light,
1202, 1207-120S
Itsive Misaki Point, 1206
Itsiye Misaki, 1207
Itsuki Sima, 1217
Itu Abaer Island, 626
Ivana, 938

1288

INDEX.

Ivon Shoal, 267
Iwami Sima, 1218
Iwani, 1253
Iwaya Point, 1222
I-wi-ig Mountains, 541
Iwoga Sima Island, 1170
Iwo Sima and Lighthouse,

1235, 1240
lyo, 1213
lyo Nada, 1217-1218

Jabak Reef, 616
Jaboeng Point, 334
Jacatra, 677
Jackee Island, 791
Jackson Island, 861

,, Reef, 616-617
Jacoba Elizabeth Rock, 706
Jacobs Island, 857
Jaga Island, 507, 508
Jagar Ridge, 493
Jahat Shoals, 501-502
Jaiar Point, 733
Jambie Ayre, 141
Jambi River, 337
James Rock, 1243
Jamsetti Reef, 280
Janabatas, Canal de, 901
Jansen Channel, 711-713

,, Rock, 1080
Jantay Island, 619
Japan Archipelago, 1163-

1254
,, Current, 1167
,, Glossary, Money,
&c., 1269-1271
Japara, 687

,, Peak, 671
Jarang River and Bank,

198
Jardine Point, 985
Jaring Reef, 616
Jar Point, io6g
Jarrad Bank, 1215
Jason Reef, 799-800

,, Rock, 183
Jaulo Island, 933
Java, North-Eastand South
Coast, 670-741

,, Bank, 700-701, 712

,, y/est Coast of, 151-
165

„ Head, 152, 153-154

,, Reef, 920-921

„ Sea, 735-741
Jeddo, 1164
Jehangire Bank, 642
Jelaka, 241
Jenemaiji Point, 816
Jerankat Hill, 224
Jessie Beazley Reef, 921

,, Shoal, 531, 779
Jettis, 724
Jibboom I3ay, 551
Jibuse Bay, 224
Jillolo Island, 871
Jimamailan, 908
Jimoto Bay, 931

Jin Island, 994
Jinmee Point, 476
Jintotolo Island, 909
Jip Rocks, 563
Jiring Bay, 206
Joana Road, 6S7, 696
Joanta Island, 281
John Peak Island, 1080
Johnson Island, 577
,, Shoal, 662
John Wade Rock, 414
Johore River and Point,

383-384
,, Shoal, 382, 399

Jokako Peak and Point,

1014-1015
Joka Sima and Lighthouse,

1 180, 1237
Jolo Archipelago, 884
Jomalig Island, 933
Jombol Island and Strait,

348
Jones Cove, 996

,, Reef, 386, 391
Jonks Shoals, 681
Josina Reefs, 811
Joss House Bay, 961
,, Island, 1040
,, Point, 1227
Jonkamoe Peak, 168
Joulan Point, 611
Jow Rock, 1089
Juac Island, 929, 930
Judah River, 485
Jugru River, 120
Jula Island, 788
Julia Shoal, 635-637
Junction Channel, 991
Junk Bay, 1159
,, Channel, 1078-1079,
1120, 1214
Creek, 980

Island, 985, 1052, 1070
Point, 420
Rock, 986
Sail Island, 1029
Juno Rock, 1026
Juraojurao Island, 915
Jurom Mas River, 113
Just - in - the • Way Island,
1097

Kaban Island, 402
Kabasima Bay, 1227, 1235
Kabatuan River, 504
Kabeina Island, 815
Kabeljaauw Bank, 713
Kabia Island, 772
Kabinguan Island, 890
Kabitan Island, 809-810
Kaboe Point, 810
Kaboroan Island, 883
Kabroeang Island, 883
Kabuto Saki, 1237
Kada Bay, 1174
Kadalua Island, 814
Kadji Island, 1213
Kadjitori Saki, 1214

Kado Sima and Lighthouse,

1244
Kadota Yama Head, 1246
Kadsusa, ii8g
Kadupa Islands, 835
Kadzusa Saki Point, 1183
Kae-chu Point, 1155, 1158
Kaffoera Cape, 857
Kagara Sima, 1242
Kageno, 1237, 1240
Kagosima and Gulf, 1231-

1232
Kahamkamman Island, 528
Kaik Point, 674
Kailakat Harbour, 851
Kaiman Rock, 751
Kai-shan Island, 1132
Kait, 806
Kajang, 749
Kajeli, 806
Kajoe Islands, 773
Kajoewaddie Island, 773
Kakaou Inlet, 1041 '

Kaka Rock, 835
Kakarutan Island, 884
Kakchio Promontory, loio-

1012
Kakirouma Island, 1168
Kaki-saki, 1179
Kalabangkang Point, 711
Kalaban Point, 712
Kalagian Island, 170
Kalampunian Island, 511,

512
Kalang-Bayang Harbour

and Mountains, 167-168
Kalang Serat and Buoy,

254
Kalantan River, 408
Kalao Island, 773
Kalap Island, 859
Kalatoa Island, 772
Kaleewan River, 1035
Kalengan Island, 721
Kalian Ledge and Pass, 210

,, Point and Light, 210
Kalie Poetjang, 724
Kaliesusu Baj-, 814
Kali-Maas River, 702
Kalinda, 171
Kali Saputi River, 182
Kali Tulang Bawang River,

182
Kaliwaru Island, 851-852
Kalkun Islands, 709
Kaloekaloekoan, 797
Kaloeman Cape, 857
Kalomuns Cape, 857
Kalore, 140
Kalutan Island, 514
Kalumpang Bay, 798
Kalumpong Point, 324
Kamada, 1243
Kamaishi Harbour, 1198
Kamakuia, 1186
Kamami, 1253
Kamantara Mountains, 16S
Kaman Village, 883

INDEX.

1289

Kamara Island, 765
Kamarie Island, 773
Kambangan Island and

Light, 724-730
Kambarraghie Bay, 773
Kambing Island, 713, 764,

783-784
Kamboe, 764
Kamida Creek, 1250
Kami Idzumi, 1242
Kamino Island, 1230

,, Sima, 1237
Kamirian Island, 708
Kami Rock, 123 1

,, Seh Rock, 1 173

,, Sima, 1177

,, Ura Inlet, 1233
Kam Loong Mountain, 943
Kamodi Island, 6ig
Kamoedie Island, 709
Kamoedong Island, 759
Kamonga Shoal, 540
Kampa Island, 773
Kamput, 417-419
Kanabuse Rock, 1219
Kanagawa, 1165, 1187
Kanalur Island, 850
Kanari Islands, 858
Kanasaki Sima, 1221, 1222,

1224
Kanasawa, 1186
Kanawa Rock, 1194
Kanaya Point, 1189, 1191
Kandang Island, 176
Kandar Island, 850
Kandi Cape, 810
Kandisang Cape, 770
Kaneda Bay, 1182, 1183
Kangeang, 708
Kangku Island, 424
Kang-tow, 1043
Kanlan Point, 1088
Kanon Saki and Lighthouse,

1184, iigi
Kanter River, 734
Kanziu Island, 1219
Ka-o Island, 953
Kao-shan Island, 1145, 1146
Kapala River, 503 :

,, Rocks, 383
Kapongsom River, 419
Kapoo Point, 734
Kappal Shoals, 695
Karakelang Island, 883
Karakitang Islands, 882
Karamo Islands, 1205
Karang Assem, 743, 746

,, Balie, 726
Karang-Besoarand Beacon,

675
Karang Bessie Sandbank,

695
,, Brom-Brom and

Buoy, 208
,, Hadji Reef and

Buoy, 209, 210
,, Katang Reef, 714
„ Kawat, 272-273
I. A.

Karang Krantjie Reef, 715
,, Kuiper Rock, 680
,, Layar Reef, igg
,, Maas and Light-
house, 749
,, Mountain, 152

Karang-Padang Island, 673

Karang Pandjang, 255
„ Pipa Shoal, 684

Karang-Poerak and Euoy,

675
Karang Point, 757

,, Sangatta Rock,

801
,, Sarabu, 207
,, Semondo Hill, 722
,, Takat Bank, 709
,, Trasseh Laout,

225
,, Tenga, 725

Walla Sandbank,
674
Kara Saki, 1210
Karatin Island, 8S4
Karawang Point, 273
Karawari, 857
Karbaffo Bay, 788
Karbouw Rock, 680
Kareki, 1243
Kaiian River, 107
Karimon Island, 694

,, Java Islands, 694-
696
Ka Saki, 1244
Kasayama Saki, 1228
Kasengo Island, 252
Kasho Rock, 1240
Ka Sima, 1217
Kasira, 1242
Kasiruta Island, 878
Kasiwa, 1212
Kassang River, 133
Kassoemba, 747
Kassuwi Island, 851
Kasteel Rotterdam, 803
Kasuaris Bay, 155
Kasu Sima, 1233
Kata, 1202, 1204
Katang Linga Island, 314
,, Point, 716
,, Reef, 695
Katapang Island, 273, 708,

715
Kata Sima, 1241, 1245

,, ,, Kock, 1 183

Katiga Point, 511
Ka-tih-niau Island, 1136
Kauriko Yama Peak, 1246
Kawa Guchi, 1208
Kawajiri, 1196
Kawalan River, 506
Kawa Saki, 1188
Kawatchi Bay, 1241, 1243
Kay-a-kaou, 1037
KaNa-la-pun River, 143
Ka Yama Rock, 1183, 1184
Kayeli, 806
Kayo Island, 877

Kayu Islands, 773

Kebat Island, 339

Kebatoe Island, 272

Kebo Island, 763

Kechil River, 113

Keddah, 107

Kediending Point, 770

Keenapoussan Islands, 886,
919

Kee-ow Island, 954

Keffing Isles, 852

Kega Point, 444-445

Keicho, 460, 461, 463

Kei Islands, 846-848

Keishi-wei, 1006

Keizers Bay, 167

Kekik Island, 867

Kelang Island, 823

Kellet Bank, 963

Kellett Bank, 967
Reach, 986
,, Spit, 1020, 1022

Kelok Island, 694

Kelor Rock, 679

Ke-lung Harbour and Is-
land, 1043-1046

Kema, 804, 811, 812

Kem ng Harbour, 1070

Kemsue Island, 1004

Kendari Bay, 813

Kennedy Island, 250

Kent Rocks, 350

Keo Bay, 775

Kepanean Island, 721

Keppeh Island, 765

Keppel Rock, 379, 381

Kep Point, 417
Kera Island, 332, 7S6
Kerkhof Island, 682
Kerr Channel, 991
,, Island, 1028
Kerti Creek, 141
Kertoy Creek, 141
Keshen Point, 980
Ke-sin-she Island, 1003
Kestrel Rock, 1092
Ketapang Shoal, 676
Ketau Point, T0S4
Ketchepee, 869
Kcti Island, 489
Keua-dong River, 460
Keui Island, 994
Keun-bong River, 459
Keu-shan Island, 1091
Key Islands, 846
Keyser Bay and Island, 167

,, Peak, 168
Kiahtsz, 1007
Kiamsan Point, 495, 497
Kianghi Mountain, 494
Kiangshan Hills, 1028
Kiangtse Province, 1128
Kiao River, 459
Kibatsu Bay, 1238
Kibune Point, 1221, 1222
Kiddisol Island, 1086
Ki Doulan Harbour, 847-
848

1290

INDEX.

Kidurong Bay and Point,

486, 487
Kien-chew, 471, 473
Kietjar River, igS
Kii Channel, 1202-1207
Ki Islands, 846-848
Kikai Sima, 1169
Kilapan Island, 237
Kila Road, 764
Kiloang Bay, 168
Kilwari Island, 851-852
Kimanis Bay and River,

502-503
Ki-ming Island, 1140
Kinchan Bay, 1159
King Cape, 1182, 1195
Kingkasan Island and

Light, 1198
Kingston Shoal, 662
King William Island, 863,

86 +
Kini Balu Mountain, 506
Kinindukan Bluff, 503
Kin-kia, 1136
Kinkiang, 941
Kin-men Island, 1072
Kinpai Pass, 1058
Kinsiang, 1004
Kintang Channel and
Island, 1097
,, Island, 1086-

1087
Kintar Island, 301
Kintoan Lighthouse and
Light Vessel,
1108-iiog
,, Small Beacon and
Light, 1 109
Kin-yu Island, 1004
Kiori Cape, 1199
Kioto, 1208, I2IO
Kiow Island, 877
Kiro Yama, 1214
Kirton Shoal, 649
Kishun Gawa River, 1208,

1209
Kiso River, 1177
Kissa Island, 784
Kisser Island, 784
Kitakami River and Light,

1197
Kitsne No Se Rock, 1184
Kiukiang, 1104
Kiung-chau, 428, 471, 473
Kiusiu Island, 1164, 1171

,, West Coast, 1230
Kiu-sung-seu, 1022
Khao Sabap Mountain, 421
Klaaibeck Island, 869
Klabat Bay, 225

„ Mountain, 812
Klambang Point, 803
Klang River, 107, 120
Klapa Island, 838
Kiappa Island, 169

,, Point, 171
Klapper Island, 152
Klein Fortuin Island, 166

Klein Island, 780
Kletta Rocks, 712
Kliang Mountain, 251
Klippige Point and Shoals,

233. 235, 242
Kloiiat Mountain, 811, 812
Kloempang Bay, 798
Klong Koh Kong River,

420
Klumpang Dua Creek, 141
Knob Hill, 181

,, Island and Peak, 583-

584
,, Point, 1143
,, Reef, 996
,, Rock, 1016
Knoop Island, 760
Koanjer Point, 745
Ko Azika Sima, 1242
Koba, 260

Kobe and Light, 1209-1210
Kobie Bay, 853
Kobona Island, 772
Kobroor Island, 844
Ko Channel. 1097
Kodono Sima, 1215
Kodsine Island, 1194
Koeber Island, 170
Koeboe Point, 745
Koebor Island, 673
Koekoesan Mount, 688
Koemai River, 739
Koenjit Island, 794.
Koepang and Light, 785-

786
Koeraw, 260

Koerier Bank, 251-252, 257
Koerier Rock, 812
Koesie, 789
Koetei River, 800
Ko-guro Sima, 1225-1226
Kohajau River, 739
Koh Buot Island, 410

,, Chan, 411

,, Chang, 421

,, Chula, 421

,, Dud, 417

„ Ira, 423

,, Kam, 424

„ Klet-keo, 423

,, Kong, 420

„ Krah, 410

,, Kram, 423

,, Kut, 420

,, Kwang Noi, 413

„ Lan, 423

,, Lucm, 411, 423

,, Mak, 420

„ Ko ho Island, 950-952

,, Platecn, 422

,, Riat, 422

,, Rong, 419

,, Samit, 419, 422

,, Si-chang, 423

,, Si-ma-ha-ra-cha, 424

,, Ta-kut, 411

„ Tang, 414

,, Tlu, 411

Koh Tron, 417
,, Yoh, 422
Kojima Island, 1227
Kok-he-mung Harbour,

1040
Koko Island, 770

,, Reef and Lighthouse,

713-714
,, Rock, 835
Kok-si-kon Port, 1040
Koku, 1 152

Kokura and Ledge, 1221
KoUong Bay, 762
Koloembj'an Bay, 167-168
Komaga-daki Peak, 1251
Komba Island, 779
Kombang Bay, 717
Kombar Island, 695
Kombuis Islands, 681
Ko Minasi Sima, 1218
Komisang Island, 1168
Kommerust Island, 869
Komoda Bay, 1227
Komodian Island, 694
Komo-no-saki, 1227
Ko Ne Sima, 121 5
Kongilan Island, 722
Kongka Bay, 817

,, Island, 300
Ko No Se Rock, 1215
Ko Oge Sima, 1215
Koong-chin Hill, 476
Korai-no-ze Rock, 1226
Korbou Mountain, 838
Korea, The, 1161-1162
Korowelan Shoal, 692-693
Kosaka Channel, 1225
Ko Saki Sima, 1215
Kosedo, 1238
Kosii Sima, 1216
Kosiki Islands, 1229-1230
Ko sima, 1199

,, Island, 1175
,, No Hana, 1172
Kosime No Osima, 1222,

1223
Kosu Sima Island, 1194
Kota Lumut, 118
Kotamo Bay, 1233
Kotaringin Bay, 739
Kota Striah, irS
Ko Tate Rock, 1241, 1243
Koti Passage and Mount,

615
,, River, 800
Koto No Ura Bay, 1233
Kotta, 743, 747
,, Kiver, 204
,, Wanngin River, 206
Koubah Island, 1049
Koubong Bluff and Reef,

495
Kowanko Bay and Island,

763
Kowloon, 963, 965
Kow Luang Mountain, 411
Kowlui Head, 1059
Koyaki, 1235

INDEX.

1291

Koyaki Island, 1237
Koza-gawa, 1174
Kraa Isthmus, 410
Krabben Island, 715
Krakab Islands, 695
Krakal Bight, 723
Krakatoa Island, 156, 173
Kranga Bluff, 509
Krang Guku Ceek, 141

,, Island, 274

,, Ryah Bay, 139
Kran Island, 283
Krawang Island, 290

,, Point, 683, 686,
688
Kravv Isthmus, 410
Krean River, 107
Krei Island, 843
Kresik and Light, 701
Krian River, 112
Kring Badung Island, 423
Kroenjo Rock, 164
Kron Berg, 776
Kroya Bank, 737
Kuala-panko River, 503
Kuan Island, 1213
Kubu Manak Island, 746
Kuching, 482-4S3
Kuga Channel, ir27
Kuiper Island, 679-680
Kukar Island, 851
Ku-kien-san Island, 1049
Kuki Saki, 1174
Kulang-seu Island, 1019,

1020, 1022
Kulassein Island, 891
Kulewatta Bay, 838
Kumi Island, 1048
Kumpal Island, 289
Kung-kung Fiat, 1144

,, Island, and

Lighthouse,
1141
Kuno Sima, 1215, 1216
Kunst Shoal, 335
Kupang and Light, 7S5-786
Kuper Harbour, 1161-1162

,, Island, 986
Kuraman Island, 494, 497
Kura Sima Island, 1205
Kurihama Bay, 1183
Kurile Islands, 1165
Kurimah Island, 1050
Kuri No Kami Reef, 1242
Kuro-ko Sima, 1243
Kuro-ne-seto Strait, 1232
Kuro Saki, 1199
Kurose Islet, 123S
Kurose Reef, 1236
Kuro Siwo Current, 1167,

1200
Kuro Sima, 1227, 1241, 1171

,, ,, Rocks, 1174
Kurow River, 113
Kurusima No beto, 1213-
1215
,, Strait, 1213-1215

Kusa-kaki Island, 1229

Kusaki Sima Rocks, 1171
Kusan Pagoda, 1025
Kushan Peak, 1057
Kusi Saki, 1218, 1219
Kusrovie Rock, 419-420
Kuszukuri Point, 1225
Kutong River, 113
Kutsino Sima Island, 1169
Kutsnose Kock, 1235
Kuvvana, 1177
Kwaka Saki, 1188
Kwala Bubon, 143

,, Djellei River, 739
Kvvala-nur River, 337
Kwala Pasir, 799
Kvva-liang Bay, 1036
Kwandang Bay, 810
Kwang-si Province, 990
Kwang-tung Province, 988
Kvvan Island, 1088
Kwei Channel, 1088
Kwei-chau fu, 1104
Kwei-tau Rocks, 960
Kweshan Islands, 1075
Kvve-tau Head, 959
Kvvimun Channel, 1088
Kwing Bay, 103 1
Kwi-si Island, 108S
Kyau-Chau Bay, 1134-

"35
Kypong Islands, 959

Laag Island, 289

Laa Island, 887

Laam Koo Hill, 476

Laarat Island, 842

Laars Bank, 796-797

Laboe Hadye, 756

Laboh Point, 202

Labot Mount, 932

Labekara Cape, 817

Labuan, 144

,, Amok, 745, 746

Labuandata Lape,8i7

Labuan Gattal, 749
,, Gollck, 749
,, Group, 499-501
Hadji, 756
Tring, 757

Labu Bua Point, 762

Laburs Mount, 878

La Caldera Harbour, 898

Lacht Huen River, 461

Lacht Kouenn Port, 458

La Concepcion, 914

Ladd Reef, 622

Ladrone Islands, 954-955

Lady Inglis Rocks, 1178

Laf-sa-mi Island, 956, 958,

973
Laga Anchorage, 791

,, Point, 197
Lagen Island, 564
Lagoendy Islands and

Strait, 172
Lagong Island, 619
Lagonoy Gulf, 931
Laguan Island. 902

Lagummanoc Island, 927
Laguna de Panguil, 899
Lagundy Islands, 172

,, Strait, 168

Lagu Rocks, 835
Laho Island, 170
Lahuy Island, 932
Laichau, 1 146
Laigoma Island, 877
La island, 788
Lakahia Mount, 856
Lakeaii Island, 1082
Lakeati Island, 1082
Laki Island, 481
Lakor Island, 838
Lak River, 460
Lalanga Island, 169
Lalarie Pomt, 203, 221, 223
Lalutaya Island, 566
Lamakwera, 779

,, Strait, 777

Lama Point 853
Lamarap Peak, 780
Lama River, 503
Lamaut Island, 120
Lambasina Islet, 817
Lambay Island, 1037
Lambeina Reef, 816
Lambier Mount, 488
Lamcolam Pook, 409
Lameh Point, 791
Lamina Elizabeth Reef, 619
Lamma Island, 957

,, Island and Chan-
nels, 961-962
Lamocklslands and Lights,

1013
Lamon Bay, 933
Lamongan Mount, 715
La Monja Rock, 597
Lamon Rocks, 1013-1014
Lampassan Island, 518,

520
Lam Point, 1027
Lampong Bay, 169-171

,, Mountains, 168

Lampon Harbour, 933
Lamsana Cove, 791
Lamtia Island, 1017
Lam-yit Island and Sound,

1027
Lanauan Island, 892
Lan-dar-gun Peak, 542
Lando Island, 787
Landscape Island, 866
Langat River, 120
Langil Island, 893
Lang Island, 174

,, Islet, 403
Lang-kiu and Point, 1036-

1037
Langkong Point, 203
Lang Shan Crossing and

Light Vessel, 1127
Langui Shoal, 393-394
Langwas Island, 255
Lang-yi Tau, 1133
Lanka Point, 260

1292

INDEX.

Lankattuah Island, 143
Lan-Keeam Cay, 628
Lankeet Island and Flat,

Lan-kiang Sha, 1148
Lanksa Bay, 143
Lanrick Shoal, 266
Lansew Bay and Island,

10S7-1089
Lan-shan Island, 10S8
Lantao Channel, 958

,, Island, 967-968,
976
Lanteba, 140
Lanyett Island, 1076
Laoush Rock, 1080
Lapac Island and Reef,

885-8S6
La Paix Rock, 638
Laparan Island, 889
Lapie, 762

Larabe Slioal, 230, 25S
Larantuka, 769

„ Gut, 778

Largon Island and Rocks,

556-557
Lari Larien Islands, 796
Lark Bay, 950
Larkin Shoal, 614
Larkins Point, 986
Larne Rock and Island,

1062
Laroc Island, 842
Laroot and River, 107, 112,

Larva Rocks, 1063

Lary Island, 879

Las Llagas Shoals, 905-

906
Lassa Cape, 815
Lassem, 696
Latea Island, 1086
Latiniojong Mount, 816
Latoan Island and Reef,

529
Latoea Mount, 824
Latoe River, 734
Latonda Islands, 773
Latta Islands, 877

,, Latta Island, 878
Lau-mu Ho Entrance, Liau-

tung Gulf, 1 153
Laun Island, 867
Laurel Reef, 796
„ Rock, gi8
Lauriot Islands, 741
Laut Reef, 616

,, Rock, 680
Lava Island, 934
Lavender Bank, 275
Lawak Island, 706-707
Lawang, 140

,, Island, 779
Lawoe Peak, 671
Lawvengan Island, 160
Lay Cape, 456
Laykan Point, 803
Lea Ming Island, 1073

Lebanie Bay, 806
Lebi, 746
Leda Rock, 339
Leechin Point, 1053
Leema Islands, 280
Leenhwa-yang Channel,

1082
Leeo-lu Bay, 1024

,, Head, 1021
Leeta-Leeta Island, 541
Legabatang Creek, 141
Legaspi, 895, 929-930
Leiar Island, 402
Leiden Island, 682
Leitimor, 824
Lelei Shoals, 804-805
Le-liang-swa Mountains,

1037
Lema Channel, 971-972

,, Islands, 957, 960-961
Lembalei Bay, 138
Lem Chong P'ra, 410
Lemiring Point, 721
Lem Kra-bang, 423

,, Kwan, 423

,, Ling, 420

,, Nam, 420

,, Pataya, 423

,, Putau, 423

,, Sahemsan, 422

,, Samook, 424

,, Sing, 421

,, Tong Lan, 411

,, Ya, 422
Lengowa Point, 853
Lenna, 776
Lenning Point, 163
Leno Bay, 897
Leong-soy Bay and Point,

479
Leonidas Bank, 923
Lepar Strait, 234
Lepog Bay, 604
Letman Island, 847
Letti Island, S37
Leuconna Island, logo
Leu-kung-tau Island, 1140
Leuwarden Reef, 853
Leyte Island, 901-902
Lian Bay, 594
Liang Island, 762
Liang-kiau Bay, 1036-1037
Liant Cape, 422
Liat Bay and Reef, 263
Liau Ho River, 1154-1157
Liau-ti-shan Promontory,

1159
Liau-tung Gulf, 1129, 1153-

1162
Liloan, Puerto di, 901
Lima Island, 401
Lima-jamboe Island, 673
Lima-klappa Island, 673
Lima Strait, 338
Limbe Island, 812
Limbones Island, 594
Limo Rocks, 720
Limpogeh Island, 816

Linacapan Island, 585-586

Lincoln Island, 643

Linga, 298-300

Lingayen Bay and River,
602-603

Lingey River, 129

Linghie, 107

Lingin River, 12^

Lingshan Mountains, 1133

Lingting Island, 957, 972

Linguette Island, 771

Lin Island, 1086

Linitan Island, 897

Linschoten Islands, 1169-
1170

Lintang Junction, 482

Lintido Point, 810

Lintin Island, 970

Lintoa, 943

Lion Rock, 582

Lipata Bank, 907

,, Point, 902, 916

Lirong, 883

Lisateke Cape, 822

Lishan Bay, 1065

Lismore Wreck Light,
1118

Lissamatula Island, 821

Litau Bay, 1139

Li-tsin ho River, 1147

Litsitah Point and Light-
house, 1054

Little Abang Island, 341
,, Andellan Island, 158
,, Apo Rock, 589
,, Botel-tobago Island,

1033
,, Carimon Island, 136,

347
,, Catwick Rock, 637
,, Condore Island, 633
,, Dayak River, 739
,, Binding Island, 114
,, Durian Island, 344
,, Fortune Island, 166,

850
,, Garras Island and

Lighthouse, 315
,, Innang Island, 317
,, Island, 780
,, Johore Hill, 384
,, Kabang Island, 402
,, Ki Island, 847
,, Ladrone Island, 954-

955
,, Latonda Island, 773
,, Lelei Shoal, 805
,, Merak Island, 164
,, Molleangan Island,

516, 521
,, Pan Reef, 318
,, Paternoster Islands,

799
,, Pomogotang Island,

170
,, Pulo Laut Islands,

741
„ Quemoy Island, 1023

INDEX.

1293

Little Rusukan Island, 494,

497
,, Sambo Island and

Ledges, 395
,, Solombo Island, 738
,, Square Mount, 697
,, Tamarind Island, 174
,, Tiemara Island, 317

Liu Kiu Islands, 1168-
1169

Liungnib Island, 955

Liu-sia-kwang, 1153

Livoc, 931

Liwan Island, loSi

Lizzie Webber Shoal, 663

Liban Island, 782

Libau Island, 783

Libnandala Cape, 817

Lied Rock, 237

Liefou, 789

Lien-chew, 942

Lierang Point, 696

Lieuchieu Island, 948

Lifa Matoelah Island, 821

Ligor and Roads, 409, 410

Lih-ho River, 1136

Llangliangan Island, 504

Loai-ta Island and Reef,
628

Lobam Island, 339

Loban Islands, 323

Lobetobie Mountain, 775
„ Strait, 778

Lobetolle Peak, 781

Lobogh Bay, 171

Lo-chau Island, 962, 967

Lochovv Island, 992

Loembing Rock, 676

Loemoet Point, 717

Logan Point, 445

Loggerhead Peaks, 565

Logo River, 1187

Loirap River, 432

Loka Island, 1082
Lokaup Island, 999
Lokea Island, 1081
Lokiang, 1041
Lombata Island, 777, 7S0
Lomblen Llandand Moun-
tains, 779, 780
Lombok Island and Strait,

754-759
Lombok Islet, Sii
Lompoe Batang Mountain,

801
London Reefs, 624
Loney Island, 1049
Long Arroa Island, 125

,, Harbour, 996

„ Hill, 202

„ Island, Gaspar Strait,

253
,, ,, Rio Strait, 319

„ „ Varella Strait,

349. 353
,, .. Pitts Pass, 866

,, ,, Yellow River,

1136

Long Island, Miau-tau Is- '
lands, 1145- I
1 146

Longnose Point, 1097 ]

Long Point, 545, 546

Long Sand and Buoys, iii

Longso Island, 770

Lontar Island, 829-831

Lonthoir Island and Chan-
nel, 829-832

Loobi Rock, 848

Looc Barabok Barabok
Harbour, 514-515

Looc Bay, 592-593

Loo Choc Islands, 1168-
ii5g

Look-out Hill, 1 100

Loong-moon River, 468

Looper Reef, 710

Loos Island, 322

Lord Auckland Shoal, 666

Lor Island, 704

Lorok Bay, 722

Losari Island, 720

Los Cochinos Islands, 597

Loshan Mountain, 1134

Losing Island and Spit,
1056, 1060

Lot-sin Bay, 1070

Lot's Wife Rock. 376, 1193

Louan Island, 838

Louar Cape, 756

Louisa Bay, 1159

,, Island and Shoal,
883
Shoal, 528, 651

Lousapara Islands, 836

Loutz Rock and Shoal, 1027

Low Chikhok Island, 1071
,, Flat Island, 545

Lowgai Island, 1068

Low Island, 232, 241, 245,
253, 289, 616-617
,, Islet, 1029, 1249, 1252
„ Peak, 308
,, Point, 542, 1144
,, Reef and Lighthouse,

1223
,, Rocks, 765, 766
,, Lowseu Island, 467

Loxdale Shoal, 532

Loyang Island, 866

Loz Island, 322

Luan Islands, 838

Lubang Islands, 592-594

Lubec Island, 704-705

Lubedan Island, 499

Lububa Island, 813

Lucapin Islands, S36

Luchu Islands, 1168-1169

Lucipara Channel, 189, 219-

224

,, Channel and Light

Vessel, 219-224

,, Island and Rocks,

192

Islands,

836

Banda,

Lucipara Point, 192
Luconia Breakers, 490
,, Island, 925-936
,, Shoals and Break-
ers, 649-651
Lugon Island, 925-936
Luctor Shoal, 277-278
Luda Hill, 256

,, Peak, 251
Luhwang Island, 1077-1078
Lukan Loweh Island, 817
Lukisong Island, 866
Lukon Harbour, 1086
Lumbucan Island and

Channel, 534
Lundu River, 480
Lung-kiang River, 1019
Lungmun Harbour, 1141
Lungshan Mountain, 1134
Lung-wang, 1132
Lunkat River, 143
Lupa Buan, 887
Lupar River, 483
Luwu, 816

Luzon Island, 925-936
Lyang Island, 504

,, River, 225
Lyemun Pass, 963
Lynedoch Bank, 848
Lynn Bank, 183, 185-186

,, Shoal, 737
Lynx Rock, 1025
Lys Shoal, 630

Ma-oau Point, 1088

Maas En Waal Shoal, 278-

279
Mabag Island, 936
iMabatui Point, 938
Mabo Cape, 860
Macahalao Bay, 899
Macajalar Bay, 899
Macao Fort Passage, 988
,, Harbour and Light,

950-954
Macarira Island, 951
Macartney Cape, 1138
Macclesfield Bank, 645-647
,, Channel, 234-

244
,, Island, 1084

McCluer Bank, 867
,, Gulf, 857
Macedonian Mound, 1045

,, Reef, 1 180

MacGowan Cliffs, 1158
Machama, 1196
Mackesy Island, 575
Mackie Shoal, 779
Mackinnon Rock, 1014
Maconchisi, 427
Macota Isla.id, 766
Mactan Island, 895, 906-

907
Maculabo Island, 933
Madang, or Flat Island, 761
,, Islands, Varella
Strait, 340

1294

INDEX.

Madara Sima, 1241, 1242
Maddock Rock, 477
Madras Rock, loio
Madripore Point, 568
Madubis Island, 939
Madiicang Island, 581
Madu Island, 673, 772
Madura Island, 701, 704

,, Strait, 711-713
Madyena Road, S06
Maeander Shoal and Buoys,

379
Maestro de Campo Island,

925
Magdalena Port, 905
Magdalen Reef, 266
Magellanes Bank, 923
Maggie Reef, 528
Magindanao Island, S96-

gor
Magindari Cape, 803
Maene Shan, 459
Magnetic Variation, 41
Magnoc Bay, 930
Magpeo Island, 886
Magsiapo Reef, 548, 550
Magtan Island, 9or-907
Mahakkan River, 800
Mahitam Island, 170
Mah-wan Island, 969
Maika Island, 843
Maiko, 1210
Maimbun Bay, 891
Main Channel, Yangtse

River, 1105-1108
Maio Island, 761-762
Maissonneuve Island, 1161
Maitland Passage, 987
Majajaquin, 933
Majo Island, 761-762
Makalehe Island, 882
Makassar and Lights, 774,
803-805
,, Strait of, 793-809

Makiang River, 416
Maki bima, 1234
Makkian Island, 877
Makung Harbour, 1053-

1054
Malabrigo Point, 927
Malacca and Lights, 130-
132
,, Strait of, 106-149

Malaguing Gilog Harbour

and Light, 909
Malaka, 130
Malampaya River, 560

Sound, 555-556
Malancassan Island, 500
Malan Do\ang Rock, 225
Malang Beang Shoal, 803
„ Berdaun Rocks,

384

,, Orang Reef and

Buoy, 318

Point, 735

,, Point and Spit,

370. 380

Malan Guntur, 225
Malang Yarong Island, 317,

324
Malan Hyu Rock, 225
Ma la-nut Hill and River,

544
Malapakkun Island, 543
Malapina Island, 557
Malauigi, 925
Malaunavi Island, 893
Malavatuan Island. 593
Malay Point and Spit, 370,
380
,, Vocabulary, Money,
&c., 1256-1258
Maleidong Island, 291
Malicut Island, 891
Malikan River, 142
Malilipuy, 931
Malinsono Island, 539
Malipu Bay, 559
Mallaratone Island, 558
Mallarois Island, 559
Mallawalle Island and
Channel,
51^. 518-
519
,, Shoals, 519,

521
Ma-lo-chau Islands, 953
Malolo Mountain, 933
Malootone Island, 560
Malpacao Island, 564
Maltby Island, 572
Maludu Bay, 512
Malumahuan Island, 929
Malusa, 893
Mamalak or Mamalakkie

Island, 773, 819
Mambahenauan Island, 920
Mambulao, 933
Mamee-chovv Islands, 944
Mamelles Mountain, 457
Mamelon Hummock, 202
Mamoedya Bay, 806
Mampango Bank, 275
Mampawa, 283
Manado, 811-812

,, Tua Island, 811
,, Residence of, 802
Manaita Rocks, 1221, 1222
Mana Mechy Island, 423
Manatuti Point, 791
Mandah Island, 919
Mandang Island, 882
Mandani Island, 593
Mandararie Cape, 728, 731
Mandar Cape, 806
Mandarin Bluff, 1186
Mandarins Cap Rock, 945
Mandelike Island, 687, 696
Manders Shoal, 676
Mandhar Cape, 805, 806
Mandieli Point, 776
Mandirie River, 732, 733
Mandolie Island, 878
Mandolo Point, 776
Mandra Island, 733

Man-eater Island, 674

Maneh Creek, 141

Mangala, 182

Mangalum Island, 505

Mangarai Island, 769-779
,, Strait, 769, 774

Mangarim Bay, 590

Mangar Island, 612
,, P( int, 273

Mangerye Strait, 769

Mangir Island, 158

Mangkasser and Lights,
803-805
,, Government of,

802

Mang-kia, 1043

Mangola Island, 821-822

Mangoman Island, 172

Mangos Point, 603

Mangrove Bay, 774
,, Island, 576

Mangsee Danger Bank, 531
,, Great Reef, 529-

530
,, Islands and Chan-
nel, 530-532

Maniacolat Island, 885

Maniang Islet, 817

Maniguig Island, 916

Manila Bay, 595-600, 895

Manilla Rock, 714

Manipa Island and Passage,
823

Manito, 930

Manlalec, 564

Man-mi-chau Island, 959

Mano Island, 776, 788, 839

Manok Bay, 748

,, Island, 729, 733

Manovolko I- land, 851

Manpoeriet Island, 708

Manropet Island, 708

Man-san Island, 954

Mansfield Island, 863, 864
Shoal, 818

Mantaleengahan Moun-
tain, 542

Mantanani Islands, 510

Mantang Island, 319
,, Peak. 480

Mantangule Island, 513,
535

Manti Island, 794

Mantotte, 791

Manubol Island, 885

Manuc Manca Island, 887

Manu Harbour, 476

Manui Island, 813

Manuk Manukan Island,
920

Manyangit Point, 516

Manzas Point, 603

Manziu Island, 1219

Maoutze Island, 1083

Maqueda Canal, 931

Maquiliere Island, 882

Marabay Point, 548

Marabu, 488

INDEX.

1295

Maraksa, 141

,, River, 139
Maralison Island, gij., gi5
Marang, Mount, 282
Marantao Island, 543
Marasanga Cape, 816
Marasi Bay, 541
Marass Mountain, 225
Marawang and River, 260,

262
Marble Rock, 943
March Island, S77
Margaretha Harbour, 848
Margaret Shoal, 405
Marianne Shoal, 773
Maricaban Island, 927
Marigondon, 928
Marigorang Island, 878
Marijondon Point, 597,

599
Marinduque Island, 925
Mariner Keef, 1093
Maringi Bay, 773
Marinijo River, 734
Maririe Point, Sii
Maritinieh Island, 797
Mariveles Bay, 599

,, Island and Light-
house, 596-597
Marlangas Mount, 925
Marongos Island, 891
Maroona Shoal, 606
Maroon Hill, 234
Marsh Reef, 412, 1169
Mars Island, 322
Martaban Shoal, 796
Martha Point, 1139
Maru Bukit, 384

,, Island, 842

,, Iso Rock, 1214
Marundum Island, 614
Maru Yama, 1204
Maruyama Point, 1206
Mary Goddard Shoal, 229

,, Rock, 296
Masar Island, 250
Masbate Island, 905
Maselar Island, 839
Masien 1 iega Islands, 292
Ma Sima, 1224
Masingloc Port, 602
Mas-kong Island, 961
Masou Peninsula, 1045
Masui Sima, 1223, 1224
Masunie Island, 822
Matabella Islands, 851
Mata Island, 612
Mataga Island, 894
Mataha Island, 894
Matanal Point, 892
Matandumaten Is. and, 932
Matang Island, 840

,, Peak, 485
Matheson Port, 1026
Mathilda Rock, 679
Matimioz Point, 898
Matinloc Island, 562
Matoco Point, 927

Matoya Harbour and Light,

1175, 1176
Matsmae, 1165
Matsou Island, 1056, 1061
Mats Sim I, 1237, 1241
Matsu Saki, 1247

,, Sima, 1185, 1197,
1215
Matsu-wo-ga Hana and

Light, 1210, 1211
Malta Siri Island, 741
Mattie Cape, 729-730
Maitie Point and Shoal, 145
Matt Island, 458
Matulin Island, 931
Matumara Island, 838
Maurissa Strait, 780-781
Maurits Bay, 730
Maxwell Point, 1158
Mayak, Mount, 2S2
May-day Bay, 551-552
Mayon Volcano, 926
Mayor Island, 879
Mayrarra Point, 005
May VVdIiams Shoal, 529
Meac Sima Islands and

Rocks, 1229
Meangis Islands, 883-884
Meara Island, 575-576
Medang River, 234
Meddang Islands, 207
Medemblik Island, 797
Medta Island, 784, 837
Medusa Reef, 1170
Meeuwen Island, 156
Meevvah Town Point, 1058
Megami Point, 1238
Meganties Point, 723-724
Megelon Cove, 723
Mehegan Point, 117
Mei^co Sima Islands and

Rocks, 1048-105 1
Meichen Sound, 1026
Meih-shan Islands, 1145-

1146
Meih-ting Island, 1089
Meih yun Island, 1089
Meinders Droogte Keef and

Lighthouse, 718, 749, 753
Meinderts Shoal, 676, 8o5
Mei-shan Island, 1078
Me Island, 459
Mekari no seto, 1215, 1216
Me-kiang River, 430
Me-kong River, 430
Mtla Head and Ledge, 1190,

1 195
Melalu, Mount, 225
Melanting River, 755
Melapies Islands, 291-292
Melassor Bay, 802-803
Melcdan Island, 292
Melros Point, 1050
Melvill Bank, 216

,, Cape, 522, 525
Melville Passage, 1085-1086

,, Kock, 1080
Membakut River, 503

Membora, 807
Mcnado, 804, 811-812
Me-nam Chau-phya River,

425
Mcnangis Point, 762
Menango Bank, 788-789
Menarie, 698
Mendoza Island, 1000
Mcniangan Island, 694
Menkabong Bluff and River,

505

Meno Island, 755
Menor Island, 589
Menscheneter Island and

Reef, 672, 674-675
Mentawa Shoal, 261
Mentoyong Point, 735
Mentui Creek, 142
Merak Harbour and Island,

164
Merapie Peak, 671

,, Shoal, 220
Merbaboe Mountain, 693
Merdu Point, 140
Mereira Point, 605
Meri River, 488
Merope .-^hoai, 588

,, Shoals, 1017
Mesan Island, 422, 1075,

1076
Me Sima, 1229
Mesudji River, 182
Mew Island, 154, 156-157

,, Stone Rock, 157
Meyo Island, 879
Miaki Sima Island, 1194
Miako, 1210
Miaow Island, 1068
Miau Lake, 11 17
Miau-tau Islands, 1145-

1146
Middelburg Island, 797
Midden Island, 765

Rock, 676
Middle Babi Island, 402

,, Bank and Buoj's,
III

,, ,, Beacon, 1156

Middleburgh Shoal, 346,

352, 353^ 354
Middleburg Island, 676-677
Middle Cape, 406

„ Channel, 375, 381,

395. 533
,, Channel Batavia.
6S2
Dog Island and
Lighthouse, 1030
,, Ground Sandbank,
i2ig
,, Shoal, 1059,
iroi, 1120
„ Group, 277
„ Island, 235, 371,
478, 780, 814, 822,
1015
,, Island and Reef,
360, 364

1296

INDEX.

Middle Islands and Rocks,
Bias Bay, ggg-

lOOO

,, Nangka Island, 205
„ Pass, 227, 247
,, Pass Shoals, 246
,, Patch, 6go
„ Reef, 230, 553, 1004
,, Rock, 303, looi

Rocks, 335, 38g,
766, ggS-ggg
,, Shoal, 65g
,, Shoals, 532
,, Sibou Island, 401

Midway Islands, 1087

Mieulle Reef, 61S

Mikomoto Island and Light-
house, ii78-ii7g, 1181

Mikoto Sima, 1241

Mikuni Bay, 1245

Mikura Island, iig4

Miku Ura, 1245

Miles Island, iog2

Miller's Thumb Crag, loSo

Milne Island, ii5g

Milton Rock, 705
,, Shoal, 615

Minage Point, i23g

Minahasa District, 811

Minangas Port, 600

Minani River, 503

Minato-mats Bay, 1247

Mindanao Island, 895-goi

Mindoro Island, 924

,, Island, West Coast,

589-594

,, Sea, gi6

„ Strait, 588-58g
Minerva Bank, 641

Rock, 5g4, g27
Mingan Pass and Buoys,

1 05 9- 1 060
Min^hue Island, 416
Miniloc Island, 562
Minjangan Island, 744,753
Minkoka District, S17
Mino Sima, 1244
Minotoye Bay, 1204
Min River and Buoys, 1056-

1061, 1068
Mintano Lsland, 290
Mintok and Light, 210-212

,, Bank, 2og
Minto Mount, 281
Miogani Yama Mountain,

11S9
Mioga Sima, 1173
Miojin Saki, 1184, ngg
Mirabeles Point, 905
Mirs Bay and Point, gg4,

995-99S
Misaki Bay, 1235
Misamis, 8g7, 8gg
Misima Nada, 1216-1217
Miskien Island, 877
Misool Island, 858
Missana, 313, 327
Mississippi Bay, 1186

Mitarai Sima, 1216

Mitre Islet, 565

Mits Iso Rocks, 1183

Mitsuna Island, 1050

Mitzuse Rocks, 1236

Miwara, 1216

Miya Bay, 1177

Miyadsu Harbour, 1245

Miyako Port, ngg

Miya-no Saki, 1176

Miya Saki, 1205

Miye No Ura, 1240

Moa Island, 837-838

Moaro Island and Reef, 4gi

Mobo River, go3

Mobur Island, 612

Modeste Point, 1022

Moeara Kompeh, 337

Moeboet Islands, 316

Moelana Island, 828

Moena Island, 815

Moera Mount, 6g6

Moeso Siri Islands, 741

Mofagila, 877

Mofou Mount, 472

Mogi Bay, 1234

Moises Mount, g34

Molenwerf Shoal, 736

Molleangan Islands, 516,
520, 521

Moloro Island, 811

Mole Strait, 774

Mohan Rock, iioo

Molucca Islands, 820-834,
874-880
,, Passage or Sea,
879

Molu Shoals, 614

Momotori Island, 1176

Mom-ro Fort, 460
Moncudu Island, 226

Money Island, 644
Moneypenny Creek, ggi
Money Shoal, 848-84g
Mong-chau Island, g46, g5i
Mongos Mongos Islets, 603
Monijol Cape, 731
Monkey Islands, 345

,, Isthmus, 410
Monnikendam Reef, 682
Monopin Hill, 197, 207
Montagu Island, 1073
Montanha Island, 950
Motaran Islands, 277
Montero Island, 583
Montufar Shc.als, 930
Montugan Point, g30
Monyol Cape, 734
Moone Island, 877
Moorsom Head, 545
Moratabas Entrance to
Sarawak, 480-482
,, Point and Penin-
sula, 481, 485
Morau Rocks, 401
Moresses Islands, 741
Morgan Point, g50, 951
Morioka, iig7

Moro-saki, 1176

Morotai Island, 873

Morotzu Cape, 1223

Morrison Island, iog5
,, Rocks, 1171

Mortier Island, 877

Morty Island, 873

Mosuki Sima, 1216

Mother and Daugter Hills,
822-823

Mother Hill, 822-823

Motir Island, 877

Motoe Islands, g68

Moto Yama, 1218

Motts Point, 117

Mo-un Island, 1088

Mount Islet, 1141

Mouse Rocks, 1075

Mow-lung-sui River, 1042

Mozi Point, i2ig

Mozi Saki, i2ig, 1222

M Point, 436

Muara Dyawa River, 800
Mudancoos Islands, 120
Mud and Goose Islands,

120
Mud Bank, ig3-ig5
,, Island, 477
,, Point, 120
Muhlusu River, 1103
Mui-Davaich Head, 447
Muidin Cape, 446
Mujang Besar Island, 673

Ketjil, 673
Mukai Sima, 1215
Muka River, 485
Miike, i23g
Mulanay Bay, g28
Muleegee Islands and

Shoals, gig-g20
Mulu Island, 842
Mumenoki, 1237
Muna Island, 815
Munchow, 47g
Mundaga Island, 308
Mundo Bay, 206
,, Peak, 207
Mun-li-shan Island, 1132
Mura Harbour, 1175
Murato Saki Point, 1172
Murchison Island, ii5g
Murcielagos Islands, gi3
Muro Island and Strait,

345
,, Strait, 34.8
Muroto Saki, 1202, 1203
Murozu No St Shoal, 1211
Musa Bay, g36
Mushi Sima, 1214
Mushroom Island, 1073

,, Rock, 562, 1065

Mu Sima, 1225
Mussell Point, 1250
Mutigins Island, giS
Mutsu Sima, 1213
Mynder Shoal, 676
Mysole Island, 858

INDEX.

1297

Nabae Sima and Light,

I2I2

Nabob Shoal, S67
Nabokam Island, 780
Nab Rock, 10S4
Nabug, 930
Nadieda Rocks, 1229
Nadiejda Cape, 1249
Nado Passage and Buoy,

253

Nagama Sima, 1236

Nagano Sima, 1236

Naga Reef, 250

Nagasaki and Harbour,
1163, 1165, 1234-1244

Naga Sima, 1197, 1232

Nagaton, 121S

Naginato Rock, 1237

Nagoya, 1177, i2og

Nagumbuaya Point, 931

Nahmen Rock, 705

Nai nai-shan Island, 1132

Nakadori and Channel,
1225-1227

Naka Island, 1169

Nakuno Saki, 1196

Nalaut Island, 587

Nalupa, 915, 916

Namas Islan'l, 612

Nama Ura Bay, 1226

Nam-binh, 460

Nambu, 1197

Namki Islands, 1067

Namoa. 946-947, 997

,, Island and Peak,
1012-1013

Nam-Pang Island, 945

Namquan Bay and Har-
bour, 1066-1067

Namusa Island, 884

Namyit Island, 627

Nanao Harbour, 1246

Nana Sima, 1246

Nangamessie Harbour, 775,
776

Nangaou Bay, 1012

Nanga Ramo Bay, 775

Nangga Harbour, 172

Nangka Island, 277

,, Islands, 205, 223
,, Point, 201

Nanho Island, iioi

Naning, 130

Nanking, 1104

Nan-ming tau Island, 1140

Nanning, 130

Nanori Rock, 1227

Nan-sha Cape, 1033

Nantai, 1060

Nan-tai Pagoda, 1021

Nantai Wushan Pagoda,
1017

Napha-Kiang, 1168

Napier Island, 277, 9S6

Napula, 915, 916

Narrow Island, 1000

Naru Seto, 1227
„ Sima, 1227
I. A.

Narusi Rock, 1221, 1222
Naruto, 1202

,, Passage, 1202, 1203
Narvaez Shoal, 907
Na Saki, 1230
Naso Point, 923
Nassau Bank, 737

,, Fort, 833
Ledge, 688
Nassouwsche Gat, 824
Nasubatta Channel, 535
,, Island and Reef,

535. 538
Nasugbu, 594
Natuna Islands, 613-621
Nau-tau-mun Island, 958
Nautilus Reef, 783
„ Strait, 857

Nederburgh Cape, 813
Needle Rocks, 957
Nee-wok Island, 945
Negalie Island, 762
Negra Point, 605
Negri Baru, 8og
Negros Island, 908
Neian River, 485-486
Neira Island, 832-833
Ne Island, 459
Nelly Rock, 1172
Nemesis Bank, 216-217
,, Channel, 991
,, Rock, 1099
Nemoro, 1253, 1254
Neptunus Shoal, 683
Nest Island, 451
Netherlands India, Money,

&c., 1262-1264
Net Island, 998
Netscher Shoal, 325
Neuva Guipuzcoa Province,

897
Nevvchwang and Light

Vessel, 941, 1154-1155
New Guinea, West part,
855-865

,, Harbour, 358, 360,

374-381

„ Hatiling, S53

,, Island, 777
Newland Shoal, 266
New Rock, 835
Nezuma Sima, 1212
Nezumi Sima, 1238
Ngamber Point, 722
Ngao-mun, 952
Ngor Island, 842-S43
Nha-trang Bay, 44S-449
Niagara Breakers, 776
Niale River, 181
Niamok Island, 313
Niaow Island, 1068, 1070
Niaporay Island, 553
Nibong Island, 291
Nichisone Rock, 1229
Nicholson Bank, 922
,, Rock, 921

Niegata, 1165, 1209, 1246-

1247

Nierstuk Shoal, 683
Niger Bank, 4S0
Nightingale Island, 468
Nigisi Bay, 1186
Nihoung River, 181
Nii Sima Island, 1195
Nila Island, 839
Nim-binh, 460
Nimrod Sound, 1074, 1076-

1077
Nin Bay, 905
Nine Islands, 953
Nine-Feet Reef, 1041, 1052
Nine Pin Island, 1072
Ninepin Islands, 992, 994

,, Rock, 464, 994,
1026
Ninepins Rocks, 1082
Ning-hai, 1153
Ningpo, 941, 1077, 1098-

1099
Nioer River, 337
Nipon, 1164, 1172

,, East Coast, 1195

,, West Coast, 1244-
1248
Nisibets, 1254
Nissah Monteh Island, 763
Nis Shoal, 501
Niu-kung Bay, 1054
Niupi-shan Island, 1076
Niwatori Jima, 1215
Nob Island, 510
,, Rock, 1081
Nodding Tommy Beacon,

1156
Noesa Island, 7S7

,, Kambangan, 725
Noesanive Point, 825
Now-Chow and Island, 942
Noka No Hana, 1215
Noko Gawa, 11 88
Noko-gheri Yama Moun-
tains, 1 189
Nokona Sima, 1216
Noko Reef, 704
Noko Rock, 707
Nolloi, 788
Noma Saki, 1176
Nomi Harbour, 1172
Nomo Rock, 1235, 1236

,, Saki, 1234, 1236

,, Ura, 1236

,, Yama Point, 1236
Nongsa Point, 318
Nonna Mount, 824
Noord Wachter Island, 807
Norman Court Rocks, 1061
North Ardasrier Shoal, 664

,, Babi Island, 402

,, Balabac Strait, 536-

539
,, Bank and Point, 114,

"5
,, Bashi Kocks, 939
,, Bay, 1087
,, ,, Reef, 1206

,, Cape, 406, 812

1208

INDEX.

North Channel, 375, 380,

390, 536

,, „ Min River,

1057-

1058

,, ,, Island, 580

,, ,, Manila

Bay, 598-

599
,, Danger Reef, 630
„ East Antelope Shoal,

541
,, East Bank, gig
„ „ Bay, 633
North-Eastern Group, 308
North East Islet, 1082
,, ,, Shea Shoals,

665
,, ,, Shoals, 534
,, Entrance, Yangtse
River, 1105-1106
Northern Pillars Rocks, 937
North Furious Shoals, 510
,, Gau Rock, gg6
,, Guhuan Island, 527
North Harbour, 514-515
,, Haycock Island, 618
,, Hill, 515, 567, 843
„ Island, 179, 183, 246,
253> 518, 736, 758.
782, 814, 884, 939,

1055
„ Luconia Shoals, 649-

651
Mangsee Island, 531
Merope Shoal, 1017
Mound Hill, 113
Natuna Islands, 620-

621
Ninepin Rock, 994
Outer Patch, 6go
Passage Island, 344
Patch, 388
Reef, 205, 547
Regent Shoal, 656-

657
River, Canton, 990
Rock, 125, 584, 508,

750, 1013, 1141
Saddle Island and

Light, 1093-1094
Sands, 123
Shoal, 645
Shoals, 532
Tai-Tai Island, 582
Northumberland Reef, 883
,, Strait, 586

North Viper Shoal, 653-654
,, Watcher Island, 457-

458, 737, 807
,, Watcher Island and
Lighthouse, 184
North-West Bank, 919

,, Dangers, 628-

62g
„ Head, 547

„ Island, 114,

255. 619

North-West Outlier Shoal,

1055
„ Rock, 588

,, Rocks, 296

,, Shoal, 524

„ Shoals, 533

North Yit Rock, 1028

Norton Rock, 1030

Norway Islands, 465

Nosaki Sima, 1225

Nose Islet, 1073

Nosela Islands, 85g

Nose Mountain, 251
„ Point, 424, 569

No Sima, 1225, 1237
,, ,, Point and Light,
1 190

Nosong Pomt and Shoals,
502

Notches Islands, 1078

Notch Island, 1017
,, Islet, 556

Notendop Island, 673

Noto Cape and Reef, 1245-
1246

Noto-jima Island, 1246

Now-chow, 475

N Point, 436

Nubatan Island, 780

Nubble Hill, 1134

Nueva Provincia, 934

Nut^as Island, 915

Nuku Sima, 1216

Numa Sima, 1216

,, ,, Harbour, 1172

Nun Rock, 597

Nuoc-Ngol, 453

Nusa Baron Island, 719-
720

Nusa Besie Island, 791
„ Heli Peak, 852
,, Island and Rock, 705
,, Komba Island, 795
,, Laut Island, 829
,, Lumbo Island, 738
,, Siri Islands, 795
,, Tello Islands, 850

Nussa Medta Island, 837

Nut Island, 959

Nyew-tew Island, 1073,
1074

Nymphe Bank, 888

Obama, 1214

Obie Rock, 682
,, Latta Island, 866

Obi Major Island, 866

Obree Channel, 1242

Observation Bank, 644
,, Islet, 886

,, Point, 313,

1195
,, Rock, 655

Observatory Head, 514

,, Island, 586,

1162
,, Islet, 1228

„ Rock, 548, 1248

Ocean Mail Shoal, 187

Ockie Bay, 811

Ockseu Islands and Light-
house, 1027

Oda, 1247

Odawara Bay, 1190

Odin Cove, 1159, 1160

Odutsi, 1212

Oedek Island, 314

Oedjoing Kalavaran Bea-
con, 694

Oedjong, 746

,, Becapay, 800
,, Santang, 801

Oelar Reefs, 212

Oeloedjami Point, 692

Oemang Island, 158

Oemura, 1217

Oenaran Mountain, 693

Oenet Passeran Island, 760

Oepan River, 196

Oerong, 170

Oessoe Island, 787

Oeste Rock, 1013

Oetoe Island, 870

Offak Harbour, 862

Offlying Rock, 115
,, Shoal, 506

Ogame Island, 1050

Ogami Point, 1238

O^an River, 196

Oge Sima, 1215

Ogo Rock, 1 172

Ohigasi Saki, 1195, 1200

Oho Saki, 1251
„ Sima Island, 1168

Ohoye, 1234

Oijsma Point, 785

Oiseaux Bank, 741

0-iso Point, 1203

Ojika Island, 1225
,, Seto, 1225

Okamura Point, 1216

Okawa Point, 1247

Okenao Islands, 838

Oki Channel, 1238
,, Islands, 1245

Okinawa Sima Island, 1168

Okino-Akima, 1230

Okino Is-lands, 1245

Oki-no Se Shoal, 1176

Okino Sima, 1202, 1204
Oki-no Sima Rock, 1183
Oki Sima, 1235, 1245
Old Castle Point, 582

,, Channel, Madura Strait,

711-713
Oldham Rock, 1227
Old Trechter Channel, 712-

713
Oliliet, 840-841
Oliviera Reef, 288
Olonapo Port, 600
Olongapo Port, 600
Olutaya Island, 909
Omae Saki and Lighthouse

1177-1178, 1181
Omapui Island, 888

INDEX.

1299

Oma Island, 828 '

Omasaki Sima, 1249
Ombai Island, 782
Ombay Island and Passage,

777, 782
Ombirah Island, 856
Omega Rock, 1S4
O mi Sima, 1215
0-mitzu Yama Peak, 1226
Omuru Rock, 1170
Onarang Mountain, 693
Ondor Harbour, 851
One Fathom Bank and

Lighthouse, 124-125
One-fathom Patch, 231
One-foot Rock, 994
Onelin Island, 850
Onghashi Rocks, 1194-
1195

Ong-ro Port, 450

Onia Saki, 1177

Onohara Island, 1194

Onrust Island, 679

Ontario Reef, 279, 293

Ontong-Java Reef, 679

Oobiki Ura Bay, 1205

Oogawa Sima, 1242

Oosaka, 1165

Oo Sima, 1173, 1202, 1233

Oosterling Rock, 705

Ootaske Rock, 1243

06 Tate, 1242

Ootzu Saki, 1172

Ophir Mountain, 131, 132

O Point, 436

Orange Nassau Peninsula,

857
Oranje Fort, 875
Ordal Island, 872
Organ Island, 1055
Orleana Shoal, 662
Ormsbee Shoal, 870-871
Oro no Sima, 1242
Orpheus Bank, 834
Orse Islands, 859
Osaka, 1208-1209
Osaki Bay, 1204
Ose Saki, 1228
O Sima, 1199

Island, 1175, 1181,
1195, 1214
Osprey Breakers, 1172

Osterly Shoals, 276

Ostrich Bank, 675

Otai-yama Mountain, 1174

Otakara Point, 1228

Otan Island, 250

Ota Rock, 1025

Otarunai, 1253, 1254

Otentosama Sea, 1232

Otong Bank, 911, 912, 913

Oto Saki, 123:

Otram Point, 444

O Tsu-no ura Bay, 1184

Ottawa Shoal, 653

Otter Rock, 482

Ounong Port, 464

Oury, 485

Ousha Island, 1080-1081,

Outer Bank and Shoal, 372-

373
,, Channel, Batavia,

680-6S2
,, Four-fathoms Shoal,

568-569
,, Island, 416
,-, Island and Rock,

1136
,, Latoan Shoal, 529
,, Min Reef, 1056, 1057
,, Reef, 1 175
,, Shoal, 517, 521
,, ,, and Beacon,

498
,, Westerly Channel,
675-677
Ouwer Point, 687
Owara Creek, 1239
Owari Bay, 1176-1177
Owasi Bay, 1174
Ow-chau Islands, 980
Owen Shoal, 662
Owick Bay, 1014
Oyah River, 485
Oya Siwo, The, 1200
Oyster Inlet, 548

,, Island and Rock,
1024
Ozumi Rock, 1214

Paat Island, 612

Pa-chau Island, 1052-1053

Pa-chung-san Island, 1049-

1050
Pacluyaban Island, 563
Padamarang Island, 817
Padan Point, 930
Padang Cove, 745, 746
,, Mountains, 260
,, Reef, 230
,, Shoal, 244
Padaran Cape, 446
Paddie Bay, 759
Padea Island, 813
Pagapas Bay, 927
Pagar Point, 370, 375, 380
Pagassan Island, 518, 520
Pagatan, 178
Pagbilao Island, 927
Pagdanan Bay, 553-554
Pagoda Cape, 450
,, Cliffs, 541-542
,, Hill, loog, loio
,, Island, 999, 1012,

1015, 1060
„ Rock, Beacon, and
Light, 1060
Pagowat, 813
Paguayan Island, 923
Pahang River, 405
Pah-ki Islands, 106S
Pahklung Cape and Rock,

467, 468
Pai Island, 423
„ Rock, 1079

Pajang Islands, 680-681
Pakchan River, 410
Pak-hoi, 468-470
Pakinham River, 410
Pakis Point, 721
Pakkem Point and Reef,

750, 752. 754
Pakko Island, 322
Paklat Bon, 425
Paklat Lang, 425
Pak-leak Island, 955
Paknam, 425
Pakoela Point, 786
Paksa Point, 1042
Pak-su-hai Rock, 468
Paktang Island, 951
Pak-tsim Island, 959
Palaboean-Ratoe Beacon,

732
Palaboen Radja, 732
Palad Bank, 928
Pala Island, 882
Palapa, Puerto de, 902
Palauig Point and Bank,

601-602
Palaai Island, 934, 935
Palawan Island, 539-584
,, Passage, 648-661
Palcocotan Island, 559
Palelee Bay, 810
Palembang and River, 196-
197
,, Point, 153

Pa-le-pie-kan Hill, 543
Palette Island, 816
Palintoan Island, 282
Pallas Rocks, 1229
Palliangan Island, 891
Palmedo Point and River,

775i 776
Palm Island, 1045
Palmer Reef, 262
Palompon Harbour, 902
Palopo, 816
Palo River, 484
Palos Bay, 806-807
Paloweh Island, 771
Palpatu Cape, 822
Paluan Bay, 591-592
Palumbanes Island, 932
Palumbatu Cape, 882
Palupari Island, 933
Pamalang Cape, 692
Pamanoekan, 687

,, Point and

Rock, 686,
689-690
Pamarung Islands, 800
Pambarawang, 282
Pamilacan Island, 908
Pamoejang Island, 673
Pamoelang Point, 732
Pampang Bay, 752, 754
Pampangduyang Point, 542
Pamplona River, 935
Panagatan Shoal, 923
Panambungan Island, 292
Panampatani Point, 933

1300

INDEX.

Panaon Island and Strait,

goo, go I
Panaroekan, 671, 716
Panay Island, gog-gi6, g3i
Pancol, 555, 560
Pancore Island, io5, 114
Pandai Island, 781
Pandan, 254

Bay, 887
,, Islands, 5gi
Pandannan Island, 513, 538
Pandan Point, 58g
Pandaran Bay, 739

,, Point, 931

Pan de Azucar Island, gio

913
Pandiang Island, 772
Pandita Islands, 746-747
Pandjangkang Island, 305
Panducan Island, 891
Pandyang Island, 706
Pangallap Island and Strait,

339. 341
Pangan Rock, 681
Pangasane Island, 815
Pangasinan Gulf, 603
Pangeranga Peak, 671
Pangerango Mountains, 686
Panghou Archipelago, 105 1-
1055

,, Island, 1053
Pangoel Bay, 722
Pangool, 671
Pangorian, 673
Pangpeto Reef, 1068
Panguiren, g33
Panguitan Cape, 897
Pangutaran Islands, 8gr
Pangutasian Islands, 563
Paniang Island, 673

„ Reef, 160
Panjang Hill, 202

., Island, 673, 694,
_ 782
Pankal Pinang, 260, 262
Panka Point, 687, 696
Pankel Island, 321
Pan Reefs, 318, 327, 332
Pantar Island and Strait,

777, 780-782
Panteh Barat, 747

,, Timor, 746
Panter Reefs, 159
Pantier River, 723
Panton Point, 148
Pantyoer Point, 731, 733
Panuctan Island, 936
Panuit Kiver, 485
Panyangdi Laut Rocks, 681
Papabag Island, 887
Papadayang Mount, 731
Papalumpongang Cape, 812
Papan Islands, 291, 292
Papenburg Hill, 832

,, Island, 1235,

1238, 1240
Papolle Island, 159, 160
Pappan Island, 494, 49S

Paps Hills, 40S

,, Mountain, 457
Paracale, 933
Paracel Islands and Reefs,

641-644
Parang Island, 6g4, 853
Paranjo Point, g33
Paraquas Island, 539
,, Ridge, 657
Parcelar Hill, 123

,, Point, 128
Paree Hill, 224
Pareh Busuk, 142

,, Pareh Bay, 805
Pare Joie Shoal, 264
Parigi, 813
Paris Cove, 612
Parker Islands, 1095

Point Bar, 987-988
,, Shoal, 1232
Parkyns Rock, loog
Parlatuan Port, 928-92g
Parmassang Hills, 204
,, Peak, ig4

Parmidiaran Point, 556
Parrot's Gift, 282
Pasatue, 817
Pascoe Channel, 577
Pasco Inlet, 566
Pasier Leiyeran, 772
Pasig River, 5g5

,, Shoal, 576
Pasi Island, 818
Pasir Lama, 7gg

„ Panjang, 376

,, River, 7gg
Pas-op Shoal, 683-684
Passage Island, 558, 946,

955
,, Islands, 291, 351-

352, 8S2, 1028
,, Reef, 552, 1207
,, Rock, 303, 96g
Passages, 42-102. (See

Table of Contents).
Passangan Creek and Point,

140
Passanhan Harbour, 8g3
Passarang Island, 170
Passey, 141
Passier, 141

Cape, 743
,, River, 7g9
Passigi Island, 882
Passir Salah, 117
Pass Island, 1029, 1059

,, Islets, 1015
Passoeroean, 671, 711, 713
Passoo Keah Island, 643
Pastel Rock, 1062
Pas Yew Island and Light,

logS, 1 100
Patahecock Island, 1075
Pata Island, 890
Patakie Island, 760
Patani Cape and River, 409
Patanunam Island, 518,
520, 521

545 >

994.

Patapa Mountains, 605
Pata Point, 605, 935
Patappan Island, 172
Patawan Island, 538
Patera Island, 952
Patientie Strait, 879
Patippi Bay, 857-858
Patiro Point, 816
Patjitan, 671

„ Bay, 722-723
Patoeha Mountain, 731
Patongong Island, 538
Pattle Island, 644
Patung Island, 968
Pauk Piah Rock, 1002
Paukpyah Rock, g43
Paukshao Point and Ba}',

1004, 1005
Paumel Point, 478
Paushan Pagoda, 11 17
Pawang River, 281
Paw-tay-chui Inlet, 1041
Paya Island, g23
Payo, 931
Payong Point, 731
Pea Island, 131
Peaked Island, 417,
611, 6ig
,, Point, 551
„ Rock, 959;

1009, lOIO
,, ,, Bay, logi

Peak Island, 371, 372
,, Islet, iioo
,, Rock, g98
Pearl Bank, 888-889
,, River, 979-990
Pearson Reef, 663
Pechaburri, 412
Pe-chili Gulf, 1129
Pedada Bay and Island,
169
,, Creek, 140
Pedasse Point, 612
Pedioe, 756
Pedir, Coast of, 138

,, Creek and Point, 140
Pedra Areca Rock, g53
Pedra Branca Rocks and
Lighthouse, 388-389, 3g7
Pedra-mea Rock, g53
Pedro Blanco Rock, 1002
Pedro Point, i3g
Pedynab Reefs, 675
Peejow, 756
Peel Mount, 5^6, 547
Pegat Rock, 721
Peh-hai Sea, ii2g
Peh-kiang River, ggo
Pehoe Island, 1054
Peh-tang Banks, ii4g
Pei ho River and Bar, ii2g,
1147-1152
,, River Buoys, and
Beacons, 1149
Peile Island, 481
Pejoet, 756
Pekalongan, 671, 6S7, 6g2

INDEX.

1301

Peking, 1147
Pe-kyau Point, 1063
Palawan Reef, 370
Pelican Point and Rock,

1081, 10S2
Peling Island, 813
Pelolot Bay, 720
Pelong Rocks, 489-490
Pemoelang Shoal, 692
Penamboeang, 806
Penang, 109

,, Peak, 703
Penaniong Bay, 724, 730
Peneki Bay, 816
Penetration Pass, 1070
Peng-chau Island, 997
Penguin Reef, 815, 835
Peniabong Point, 402
Peniekie Island, 736-737
Peninsula Islet, 512
Penjaboeng Rock, 342
Pennell Point, 1093
Pennsylvania North Reef,

666
,, Shoals, 664-

667
Peper Baai, 159
Pepitas Rock, 910
Pepper Bay, 159, 168-169
Perah River, 117-118
Perak and River, 112, 117-

118
Perch Island, 772
Perforated Rock, 451
Pergam Island, 234
Pen Bank, 888
Perier Cape, 856
Perigee Bank, 541
Perlak Shoal and Buoy, 254
Pernambuco Rock, 443
Perseus Bank, 906

,, Rock, 1214
Perunjuk Point, 507
Pescadores Islands, 1051-

1055
Pesemot Island, 277
Pe-shan Island, 1070
Petaou Bay, 1047
Peterborough Shoal, 710
Pe-ting Island, 1052
Petit Mirador Hill, 464 j

,, Morne Aplati Hill, j
46J. I

,, ,, ConiqueHill,

464
Petley Reef, 627
Petou Point, 1036, 1045
Phami Point, 432
Phanran Bay and Harbour,

447
Phan-ry Bay, 445
Phan-thit Bay, 445
Pha Point, 854
Pheasant Point, iiig, 1121
Phillip Channel, 348, 352-

353
Philippine Islands, 895-939
,, Money, &c., 1265

Philippine Islands, North-
West Coasts, 585-608
Pho-hai River, 445
Phuoc-binh-giang River,432
Phuyen Bight and Harbour,

45^-45 2
Physical Geography, 103-

105
Piapis, 861
Pidada Creek, 141
Piedra Blanca Rock, 922
Pienjing Shoal, 804-805
Piering Point, 6gg
Piero Bay, 854
Pigeon Bay, 1159

,, Island, 274, 583,
828, 859, 863, S64
,, Island and Light-
house, 749-750
Pigot Point, 861, 864, 865
Pih-keun Islands, 1030
Pih-ki-shan Islands, 1067,

1068
Pih-lou Island, 1081, 1084
Pih Pass, io65
Pih-quan Harbour and

Peak, 1066
Pih-seang Islands, 1065
Pih-sha Island, 1082
Pih-ting Island, 1082
Pilarong Hill, 716
Pilas Island, 894
Pile Point, 1134
Piling Island, 611
Pilis, 931
Pillar Point, 477

,, Rock Point, 557
Pillars Island, 999
,, Rocks, 937
Pilot Island, 423
,, Rock, 1061
Pinamuntangan Point, 928
Pinang Hill, 674
,, Islet, 403
,, Shoal, 254
Pinatayan Bank, 898
Pine Cone Island, 1072
,, Point, 540
,, ,, Shoals, 501
Pingeh, 437
Pinget Island, 604
Ping-fong Island and Rock,

1066
Pinghai Bay, 1026-1027
Pingmar Hill, 476
Ping Point and Rock, 1027
Pingshan, 1104
Pingue Island, 604
Ping Yang Inlet, 1161
Ping-yang Point, 1067
Pinitan Point, 932
Pinnacle Island, 1047, 1068
,, Islandsand Rocks,

1048
„ Range, 1133

Rock, 587
,, Rocks, 1230
Pinon Island, 859

Pintoe Island, 339
Pinunko Island, 835
Pioneer Rocks, 1230
Pipachow Island, 947
Pirate Bay, 4S0, 556, 557,
1095

,, Island, 465, 568

,, Islands, 417
Pisai Island, 1025
Pisang Bank, 134

,, Island, 867

,, Mount, 489

,, Rocks, 701
Pisangs Islands, 858
Pisui, 1025
Pitjingit Island, 322
Pitt's Passage, 865
Pitt Strait, 86o-85i
Plaggan Point, 158
Plakkie Point, 744
Plampang, 763
Plana Islands, 857
Plat Island, 1014

,, Rock, 454
Playa-Honda, 6or
Ploughman Islands and

Rocks, 1076
Plover Cove, 996
Plymouth Rocks, 1182, 1183
Pocking-han Island, 954-

955
Poedo Rocks, 763
Poeger River, 720
Poetie Point, 716
Point Peak, 580
Pokowang Island, 169
Polarican Island, 582
Pollillo Islands, 933
Poliqui Bay, 930
Polisan Cape, 812
Polish Hat Island, 174
Pollux Rock, 301, 327, 335
Pomelikan Island, 919
Pomogotang Island, 170
Pompon Island and Shoal,

339

Ponafidin Island, 1193

Pondi Island, 705-706

Ponghou Island and Har-
bour, 1051, 1053-1054

Pong-li, 1037

Pongoh Island, 263

Ponnay Point, 732

Ponoebo Island and Strait,
338

Pontang Point and Reef,
672, 674

Pontean River, 405

Pontianak River and Buoys,
282-283

Pontian River, 198

Pontud Bank, 923

Poochin Point, 472

Poolsche hoed Island, 174

Poondo Bay, 169-170

Pootoo Island, 1082, 1113

Pootoy Island, 992

Popa Island, 859

1302

INDEX.

Popoh, 721

Po Point and Lighthouse,

480, 4S1
Popo Island, 859
Popolcan Island, 563
Popototan Island, 587
Poppo Island, 859
Port Island, 996
Porto Krak Island, 833
Portsmouth Breakers, 1178
Portuguese Bay, 825

,, Point, 603

Post Horse Island, 772
Postilions Islands, 819-820
Postillion Reef, 393
Postilion, 773
Postpaard Island, 772
Potbakker Island, 877
Potoe Island, 950, 955
Potong Island, 342
Potta, 769, 770
Pottinger Peak, 993
Pou-no Island, 1091
Poun-tin Island, 960
Pou-ti Island, 1091
Powad, 140
Powhattan Reef, 1170
P Point, 435, 436, 440
Praauw Mountains, 693
Prahoe Mountains, 693
Prahu Point, 569
Pran Rocks, 411
Prantou Island, 615
Pratas Island and Reef,

606-608
Pratt Rock, 266, 268, 980
Prauhilah Point, 142
Praya Sand, iii
Prendjono Island, 721
Prince Consort Bank, 621
,, Island, 1194
,, Maurits Reef, 709
,, of Orange Bank, 753
,, of Wales Bank, 621
)! 1, Island,

107-112
Princes Channel and Island,
154-156
„ Island, 344, 351,

354
Prinsen Eiland, 154-155
Prinses Marianne Strait,

855
Prins Reef, 320
Printian Islands, 408
Prick Point, 683
Probolingo and Light, 671,

715
Proet Island, 251
Prominent Peak, 1159
Providential Bank, 855
Province Wellesley, 106,

107
Prueba Bank, go6
Pruisen Bank, 185
Pry River and Sand, iii,

"3
Psarroc Mountain, 932

Pucio Point, 916

Pudi Point, 202

Pudsey Dawson Dangers,

920
Pudsey Dawson Shoal, 796
Puercos Island, 903, 904
Puerto del Principe Alfonso,

526
Puffin Island, 1079
Puga, 936

Pugguianan Point, 558
Pu ho River, 1153
Pulo Adi, 857

Ai, 830, 833

Ampel, 736-737

Anak, 247

Angup, 349

Antu, 207

Anzas, 119-120

Aor, 396, 403-404, 6 1 1

Arau, 841

Atui, 853

Ayam, 253, 259

Babi, 672, 872

Bandang, 847

Baroe, 284

Basar, 853

Batu Dinding, 253-

254.
,, Ketchil, 166

Bedua, 308

Besar, 119, 202

Bessar, 132

Blanhap, 303

Boear, 260

Bookum, 359

Boong-Ouran, 618

Boreaii, 302

Bosing, 359

Brakit, 392

Brala, 406

Brani, 377-378

Brasse Lighthouse,
138

Bucalisse, 148

Bungin, 309

Burroo, 139

Buru, 346-347

Caballo and Light-
house, 596

Callam, 120

Cambir, 452

Canton, 454

Cecir de Terre, 446

Ceicer de Mer, 638-

639

Cici, 418

Coco, 392

Cocob, 136

Cocops, 136

Collong, 120

Colombo, 298

Colowy, 260

Condore, 632-634
,, Group, 429
,, Harbour,
633-634

Dahun, 202

Pulo Dama, 416

,, Damar, 284

,, Datoe, 283

,, Datu, 304

,, Deli, 152

,, Dewakan, 796

,, Doea, 183, 736

,, Domar, 611

„ Dombo, 828

,, Doncan, 349

,, Dumpo, 314

„ Duri, 343

„ Eu, 401

,, Gadang, 848

„ Gala, 253

„ Gasses, 866

„ Gelassa, 239

,, Gigang Besar, 307

,, Gin, 302

,, Goomeata, 345

,, Gosong Rangat, 1^4

,, Jarra, 118-119

,, Jarrang, 307

„ Java, 131

,, Jelaka and Light, 232,

236

,, Jeraga, iii

,, Jerajah, m

,, Joe, 295

>. Jong' 360 ■

,, Jummur, 125

„ Kaboen, 285

,, Kaka, 298

„ Kalankaman, 515

„ Kalie, 673

,, Kalmanbang, 254

,, Kamara, 767

,, Kami, 156

„ Kapal, 830, 833

,, Kapas, 406

,, Kapo Posang, 805

,, Katjangang, 296

,, Katta, 116

,, Keama, 882

„ Kera, 324

,, Kewshan, 409

,, Klappa, 168

,, Koenyit, 741

,, Konjitan, 722

,, Krakka, 830, {533

,, Kumbong, 253

,, Kunyit, 794

,, Labuan, 167

,, Laga Tojoo, 143

,, Lalang, 295
,, ,, Besar, 146

,, Lalang Kechel, 146

,, Lamokatan, 285

,, Landean, 285

,, Laut, 296, 359, 620,

794
,, ,, and Strait, 741

„ Leat, 235-236, 247

,, Leho, 822

,, Lembau, 822

„ Lepar, 234

,, Lima, 252

„ Logok, 179

INDEX.

1303

Pulo Lozin, 409
,, Lumaut, 120
„ Lvang, 504
„ Malora, 139
,, Manco, 28S

,, Mankap, 288
,, Manouaran, 862

,, Mapar, 299

,, Maralie, 298

,, Massuni, 822

,, Melano, 828

,. Mendanao, 253

,, Mentagas, 345

„ Merak Besar, 164
,, „ Ketchil, 164

,, Meranti, 296

,, Merodong, 301

„ Moar, 872

,, Moncudu, 226

,, Nanka, 133, 798

„ Nongsa, 394, 399

„ Obi, 412-413

,, Oboor, 847

„ Oelar, 359

,, Padang, 148

,, Palabalagan, 799

„ Paloeh Island, 816

,, Pamarang, 800

,, Pambelan, 404

,, Panambungan, 292

,, Panatan, 154-155

,, Pancore, 114-116

,, Pandan, 146, 347

,, Paneeky Ketchil, 305

,, Pangalasian, S07

,, Panjang, 131, 261,

303,346, 413

,, Panjung, 615

,, Papeoa, 823

,, Pappan, 346

,, Paril, 347

„ Parrie, 681

,, Passir, 260

,, Patampong, 349

,, Payong, 196

,, Peblakan, 183

,, Pemangil, 404

,, Pemein, 204

,, Penang, 106, 107-112

,, Penata Besar, 285
„ ,, Ketchil, 285

„ Pergam, 394

,, Pesang and Light-
house, 134-136

,, Pinang, 404, 407, 830,

.833

,, Pisang and Light-
house, 134-136

,, Pombo, 825

,, Punoebo, 297-298

,, Quandan, 146

,, Ramio, iii

,, Rantow, 148

,, Rawak, 862

,, Remo, III

„ Renjang, 163

,, Repon, 611

„ Riabu, 611

Pulo Ringat, 371

,, Rodong, 301

,, Rondo, 314

„ Roupat, 147

n Ruig, 302, 303

,, Run, 830, S33

,, Runcan, 361

,, Sabaroot and Reef, 360

,, Salanama, 146

,, Salook, 359

,, Samassu, 284

,, Sambarglap, 795

,, Sambayang, 207

,, Sambo, 395

,, Sampatuan, 143

., Sanglar, 344

„ Sapatu, 635

,, Sato, 296

,, Seboekoe, 794

,, Selagin, 247

,, Selio, 251

,, Semione, 620

,, Senappu, 148

,, Sennang, 361, 363

„ Setjawa, 338

,, Sheilo, 133

„ Sijahat, 383

,, Sijonkan, 383

,, Sikookur, 371

,, Simbang, 263

„ Sinkep, 297-298

„ Sitenga, 284

,, Skerrie, 324

„ Smot, 308

„ Soobur, 360

,, Soodoncr, 361

„ Stokong, 620

„ Sumpat, 393

„ Suto, 303

„ Swangi, 830, 833

„ Tallong, 114

„ Tambakool, 371

„ Tampelu, 143

,, Tantalam, 409

,, Taron, 315

,, Taya, 296-297

,, Teecoos, 109

„ Tega,825
,, ,, Group, 502

,, Tekolo, 119

,, Temadjoe, 284

„ Terobi, 302

,, Tetawa, 260

,, Ticos, 409, 410

,, Ticus, log

„ Tingy, 401

„ Tinjil, 152

„ Timoan, 404

„ Tjamara, 694

,, Tjebia, 296

,, Torreatep, 346

,, Tuan, 139

,, Tukong, 125
,, ,, Simbang, 125

,, Tukonkembong, 296

„ Ubin, 3S3

,, Ular, 164

,, Undan, 133

Pulo Varela, 145, 405, 450
„ Way, 139, 309, 413,
S30, 833

Pulusari Mountain, 152

Pu-lute Hill, 570

Pu-Lute Range, 543

Pumice-stone Baj', 954

Pumumabung Reef, 616

Puni Island, 202

Punta Cayman, 602

Punyabung Mount, 222, 224

Pura Rock, 771

Purra Island, 603

Pusgo Harbour, 92S

Putar Island, 781

Putat Hill, 241

Putiao Port, 928

Pu-toi Island, 955

Pu-toy Island, 972
,, Islands, 962

Putung Point, 1122

Pwanche Island, 1084

Pwan-peen Island, 1068

Pylades Rock, 1075-1076

Pramidal Rocks, 619

Pyramid Island, 291, 449,
958
,, Peak, 251
,, Point, 477, 1026
„ Rock, 637, 643
,, Rocks, 556

,, Shoal, 126, 128

Quan-Chow-Wan Bay, 943
Quan-gai River, 454
Quang-ta Island, 1070
Quang-tong Province, 471
Quang Tung Pen'a, 1159
Quantao Shoal, 1059
Quantow Head, 469-470
Quar-see-kau Bay, 1047
Quatre-bras River, 433
Quedah, 107

Queen of the Seas Bank, 922
Quelpart Island, 1161
Quemoy Island and Bank,

1023-1024
Quemov Spit, 1021
Queou Dam Leun Harbour,

633
Quia Hoy River, 456
Quinabasaran Point, 902
Quinamanocan Island, 932
Quinapusan Island, gi8
Quin-hon, 428, 451-453
Quin Shoal, 129-130
Quinuluban Island, 923
Qui-quik Bay, 454
Quoin Hill, 419, 618
,, Hummock, 2S0
,, Island, 882, 945,
1145, 1146
Quop Anchorage, 482

Ra-as Island, 706, 709
Rabbit Island, 361, 882
Racehorse Shoal, 123 1-
1232

1304

INDEX.

Rachada Cape and Light-
house, 128-129

Rach-lap River, 432

Rach-mon-gom River, 432

Rackit Island and Light,
690

Rada Point, 166

Radja, 707

Radya Islands, 810

Raffles Island, 1095

„ Lighthouse, 353,
361

Ragat Cape, 731

Ragay Gulf, 928

Ragged Island, 302, 1055
,, Islands, 765
,, Point, 798, 1063
,, Rock, 417

Rag Islands, 1064

Raglan Bank, 634-635

Raha Point, 514

Rai Diuwa Island, 777
,, Hawu Island, 777

Raija River, 142

Rajah Bassa Road, 171
,, Point, 140

Rajang River, 4S3-484

Rakan River, 146

Raket Rocks, 401

Rakit Island, 763

Raleigh Rock, 956, 1048
,, Shoal, 303

Ramadan Island, 847

Ramesamey Island, 575

Ramsay Point, 497

Ranay Mount, 618

Rangat Island, 184

Rango, 788

Rankap Sh(-al, 818

Rapurrapu Island, 930

Rateh Bay, 170

Ratteh Mountains, 168

Rattler Ruck, 1200, 1252

Rawa Island, 336, 402

Rawak Harbour and Island,
S62

Rawit Rocks, 730

Rawnsley Point, 568

Rawson Shoal, 636, 637

Rayat Point, 731

Ray Bank, 533

Reccan River, 146

Recovery Rock, 872

Redang Islands, 407

Red Bay, 1016
„ Cliff, 117
„ ,, Bank, 382
,, ,, Point, 1243
„ Cliffs, 381-382

Redfield Rocks, 1194

Red Fort, 1044
,, Island, 131, 345, 349,

352, 823
,, Islet, 1000
„ Patch Point, 843
„ Point, 968
,, River, 234, 461, 403,

Red Rock, 1029

,, Water Point, 816

,, Yit Island, 1028
Reef Island, 336, 548, 568,
570, 576, 578, 1028,
1136, 1159

,, Islands, 1052, 1072

,, Islet, 580, 999

„ Islets, 1004

„ Point, 554, 776
Rees Bay, 765

,, Rock, 1057

,, ,, and Pass, 1015-
1016
Reeta Island, 548
Reigersdaal Shoal, 680
Relief Point, 570
Rembang and Bay, 671,

696
Rembeng Island, 721
Kemoa Island, 177
Rempang Island, 316
Rendezvous Island, 289
Rene Bank, 888
Reo Bay, 770

Residentie Van Amboina,
820
,, Van Banda, 820

,, Van Ternate,

820
Respondi Island, 706
Reteh Bank, 771
Retribution Rocks, 1230
Revenge Strait, 860
Rhinoceros Cape, 478
Rhio Island, 322

,, Island and Strait, 301,
312-334
Riabu Islands, 611
Riao Island, 873
Richardson Shoal, 344
Riddle Point, 553
Rifleman Bank, 622, 662
,, Rock, 516

,, Shoal, 314

Rigni Island, 612
Rijutan Island, 936
Rimau Point, 371, 378
Rimell Rock, 615
Rindia Island, 774
Rin Island, 423
Rindjanie Peak, 754
Ringlet Point, 756
Ringin Creek, 142
Ringit Mount, 715
Ringong, 170
Rio Grande, 897
Rio Grande de Caga3'an, 935
Riondo Shoal, 318
Riow Island, 873
Riposet Mount, 939
Risim Point, 377
Rittan Islands, 611
Rival Reef, 279
River Islet, 1136
,, Point, 493
Rivers Cape, 809-810
Roang Island, 881-882

Robben Island, 673
Robert Island, 644
Roberton Island, 1049
,, Mount, 507
Roberts Pass, 1078
,, Shoal, 262
Robinett Rock, 1241
Rob Roy Bank, 133
,, ,, Reef, 622
Roche Poncie Islands and

Rocks, 1230
Rock Island and Light-
house, 1178-1179
,, Point, 540
Rockuren Island, 1222
Rocky Bank, 576, 888
„ Bay, 541, 568
,, Harbour, 994-995
,, Island, 645
,, Islands, 343, 454
„ Islets, 310, 755-756
,, Point, 235, 242, 406,
478, 866,
1008, 1 153
,, ,, and Light,

235
„ Hill, 233
„ Ridge, 158-159
Rodger Rock, 307
Rodgers Reef, 292
Rodney Rock, 1139
Rodong Islands, 340
,, Peak, 301,314
Strait, 339, 341
Roeboe Cape, 775, 776
Roembek Cape, 755
Roesah Island, 819
Roessa, 773
Roessah, 262
Roessa Island, 819
Roger Breakers, 654
Rogtrs Island, 1254
Roggewyn Island, 860
Rogues Point, 1026
Roiven Cape and Reef,

I 245-1 246
Rokka Peak, 775
Roko Island, 817
Rokuren Island and Light,

1223-1224
Roma Island, 784, 836-837
Romania Islands and

Shoals, 385-388, 396
Romba Peak, 775
Romblon Island and Lights,

913, 924-925
Romynia River, 385
Rongit Island, 158
Rong Sam Lem, 419
Rosalia Hock, 921
Rosalie Rock, 739
Rosamel Bank, 588
Rosario River, 927
Rosas Point and Light, 925
Rose Ellis Rock, 307
Rosengain Island and Reef,

830, 833
Rosengeyn Island, 833

INDEX.

1305

Rosita Rock, 418
Ross Head, 1002

,, Island, 252, 951
Rots Bay, 139
Rotsige Islands, 755-756
Rotterdam Island, 254, 257,

797
,, Reef, 320

Rotti Island and Strait, 787
Roughton Reef, 535
Roukbo, 460

Round Arroa Island, 125
Round Harbour, 858
,, Hill, 1005

Hill Point, 418
Round Island, Sunda Strait,
172
,, Macclesfield Channel,

234
,, Durian Strait, 346, 349,

353
,, China Sea, 638
,, Co. China, 945, 947,
960, 961, 997, 1000,
1055, 1057, I 133,
1140, 1159
Round Mount, 251
,, Shoal, 2ig
Routh Shoal, 667
Rover Islands and Rocks,
1052-1053
,, Knob Cliff, 1053
Rocks, 168
Rowan Islands, 1027
Row Island, 409
Royal Bishop Bank, 634
„ Captain Shoal, 655
,, Charlotte Shoal, 652-
653
Royalist Bank, 429
,, Haven, 615
,, Mount, 1042
Port, 573-575
Reef, 582
,, Rock, 306
,, Shoal, 552
Roze Island, 857
Rozol Island, 900
Rubicon Point, 1184
Ruby Shoal, 624
Ruff Rock, 1013
Rugged Islands, 1095

„ Limestone Group,
562
Ruib Island, 870
Ruined Tower, 1155
Ruin Rock,, 1046
Rungus Punta, 931
Rupels Reef and Buoy, 321
Rusa Island, 780
Rusukan Besar Island, 494,

.497.
,, Kechil Island, 494,

497
Ryder Rock, 1038
Rykdorps Bank, 816
Rynland Shoal, 680, 684
Rynsdroogte, 807
I. A.

Sabang, 201

,, Point and Light,
925
Sabi, 821
Sabina Shoal, 656
Sablayan Point and Port,

589, 591
Sable Island, 1055
Sabon Island, 346
Saboyoro Strait, 336
Sabtan Island, 938
Sabuda Island, 858
Saddle Hill, 222, 555

,, Island, 232, 245, 302,
310,611,620, 1026
,, Islands, 883, 1113
„ ,, and Rocks,

1093-1094
,, Mountain, 1251
,, Peak, 1012
Saddles Hill, 260
Sadoelang Islands, 6go
Sado Island, 1247
Sad Point, 476
Sailana Island, 796
Saga Bay, 378
Sagami Cape, iiSo, 1182,
1191
,, Misaki Cape, 1182,

1 183
,, Peninsula, ii8g
Sagara, 756
Saga Sima, 1228
Sagitsu No Ura, 1233
Sahat Point, 501
Sah-lo-wung Bay, 968
Sahul Bank, 788
Saigon, 428, 437

River, 432-433
Sailam Channel, 991
Sailor's Hat Island, 255
Sail Rock, 479, 58S, 1243

,, Shoal, iig
St. Andrew's Port, 925
,, Barbe Island, 305
,, Clair Island, 1171
,, Esprit Islands, 306
,, ,, Shoal, 647-648
,, George Bank, 794
1) ). Island, 1073
,, James Cape, 430, 634
,, James Cape and Light,

433
,, James Hill, 375
,, John Bay and Island,

948
,, John's Islands, 360, 371
,, Julian Island, 310
,, Lazaro Archipelago, 895
„ Lucia Shoal, 892
,, Matthew Islands, 836
,, Michael Islands, 920
,, Nicholas, 586
,, ,, Point, 165,672

,, Nicolas Banks, 597-600

Bay, 743-744
,, Paul Bay and Hill, 551
„ ,, Mount, 20I

St. Paul's Hill and Light-
house, 130, 131
,, Peter Island, 478, 1193
,, Pierre Islands and Rock,

311. 312
Saito Reef, 1206
Saiwan Channel, 991
Sakai River and Light, 1209
Saka Island, 172-173
Sakala Island, 710
Sakampang River, 181
Sakapar Point, 273
Sakarran River, 483
Saket Reef, 682
Sakit Mata Rock, 402
Sakiura Cape, 1245
Sak Point, 508
Sakura Island, 1231, 1232
Salak Peak, 671
Salamis Point, 1069
Salangore and Hill, 119
Salaor Island, 6ig
Salatan Cape, 740
Salat Padang, 14S

,, Panjang, 148

,, Ringit, 148

,, Sambulan, 358

,, Sinki and Beacons,
358-360

,, Tambroh, 358
Salavako Island, 851
Salawati Island, 860
Salawatta Island, 85 1
Salayar Island and Strait,

817-819
Salee Gulf, 762, 763
Saleh River, 196
Saleyer Strait, 817-819
Salhoetoe Mount, 824
Salibabo Islands and Baj-,

883
Saliera Island, 673
Salingsingan Island, 531,

533
Salipen Islands, 892
Sal-le-kan Peak, 543
Salleolukit Islands, 894
Salomague Port, 604-605
Salombo Islands, 746-747
Salt River, 197-198
Salut-Salut Bay, 604
Salwatti Island, 860
Sama Bay, 478
Samalangan Creek, 140
Samangka Bay, 167
Saman Islands, 998
Samao Island and Strait,

785-786
Samarang and Bay, 671,
687, 693-694
,, Bank, 652

,, Mountains, 693

,, Point, 516

,, Rock, 480

Samar Bank, 898
Samarinda, 800
Samar Island, 902-903
Samasana Island, 1034
8d

1306

INDEX.

Samassu Island, 283
Samatan River, 480
Samauw Island, 785
Sambang River, 2S7
Sambar Point, 281
Sambas River, 287
Sambilang Islands, 117
Samboanga, 895, 8g8
Samboangan Province, 897
Sambo Islands, 395
Sam-chau Inlet, 1001-1002
Sam-chow-tong Bay, 948
Sam-chui, 979
Sam-Cock Island, 958
Samcok Island, 949
Samit Point, 419
Sammalona Island, 805
Samoun Islands, 957
Samoy Bay, 478
Sampadien River, 480
Sam-pan-chau Island, 971,

980
Sampanmangio Point, 511-

512, 521
Sampit Bay, 739

,, Island, 255
Sampson Peak, 1159
,, Shoals, 529
Samroiyot Hills, 411
Samsa Cape, 807
Sam-sah Inlet, 1004
Sam-shui, 990
Samtiau Poi.it, 1035
Samun Islana and Road,

998 _
Sanagi Sima, 1212
San Bernardino Strait, 903-

904
Sanbon-take Rocks, 1194
Sanca Poura, 704-705
San Carlos, 938
San-chau Island, 950, 975
Sanchesan Island, 1073
Sandakan Harbour, 917
Sandalwood Island, 767,

775-777
Sandan Mount, 744
Sand Cay, 532, 627
Sandelhout Island, 774
San Diego Point, 594
Sand Island, 230, 241, 245,
571-572, 909, 1028, 1054
San Domingo Bay, 938
Sandon Rocks, 1169
Sand Peak Point, 1058
,, Point, 1154
,, Rock, 1000
Sandy Bank, 888
,, Head, 1158
,, Island, 653, 922,

1048-1049
,, Point, 369, 478
,, Sea, 831
,, Shoal, 667
Sanemuva Point, 1199
San Fabian River, 603
,, Fernando Point, 603 i
,, Francisco Bank, 953

Sangan Sima, 1198

Sanga Sanga Island, 886

Sangason, 800

Sangbowen Peak, 547

Sangboys Island, 894

Sangeang Island, 764

Sanghia Bay, 478

Sangian SiraCape, 153,735

Sangi Island, 778

Sangir Island, 882-883

Sangkoi River, 461

Sanglar Strait, 345

Sangley Point Light, 596

Sangoa Point, 283

Sangsit, 743, 745

Sangui, Punta, 902

Sanguir Island, 882-883

Sangui Rock, 401

San-ho Cape, 453

San-ho-pa, loii

San lago Fort, 952
,, Ildefonso Cape, 934
,, Jacinto Port, 904
Sanjavay River, 282
San Jose de Buenavista,
915-916
,, Harbour, 908

San Juanico Strait, 901

,, Juan Island, 901
Sankapoera, 704-705
Sankoelirang Bay, 801
San-Liau Bay, 1037
San Miguel Bay, 905, 932

,, Island, 931

Sanmun Island, 1072, 1073
Sannana Bay, 821
San Pascual Fort, go8

,, Pio Quinto Port, 937
San-pwan Pass, 1068
San Rafael Bay, 893
Sanshan Islands, 1159-1160
San-shi Island, 1070
Santa Ana Port, 912-913
Sant' Andres, 925
Santa Cruz de Napo, 925
,, Islands, 894

,, Port, 602

Santa Monica, 584

,, Rosa Mount, 939
San Thomas River, 603
Santiago Cape, 594, 926-927

,, Island, 603

Santiang Cape, 731
San Tomas, Punta de, 924
Santubong Entrance to

Sarawak River, 480
Santubong Peak, 480, 482
San Vincente, 935, 938
Sapaloeloe Strait, 821
Sapangar Bay and Island,

504
Sapa Pomt, 811
Saparoea Island, 828
Sapata Island, 635
Sapey Cape, 857
Sapi Strait, 766-769
Sapoedie Island and Strait,

706

Sapo Point, 491-493
Sapy Strait, 766-769
Saracen Bank, 652

,, Ba 419

,, Head, 1037, ^°3S

,, Reefs, 1227

,, Rock, 1162
Sarah Galley Channel, 1077,

1080-108 I
Saraki Cape, 1252
Sarangani Cape and Islands,

897
Saratoga Spit, 1188, 1189
Sarawak and River, 480,

482-483 _
Sarebas River, 480, 483
Sarok Island, 706
Sarontang Island, 817
Sarotak Point, 706
Saru Sima Island, 1184
Sassak Island, 754-759
Sassa Point, 775, 776
Sata Iras Bay, 1231
Satano Misaki Cape, 1171,

1201
Satellite Rocks, 788
Satye Bay, 948
Sau Island and Lighthouse,

317' 332
Sau-o Bay and Rocks, 1034-

1035
Sauw, 783
Savu Islands, 777
Sawaai Bay, 853
Sawang, 140

Sawchau Island, 968, 969
Sawo Point, 700

,, Saki, 1226, 1227
Saw-shan Island, 1088,

1226, 1227
Say Mount, 491-493
Scaleby Castle Shoal, 65S
Scarborough Shoal, 606
Scawfell Shoal, 631
Schar\'ogel Islands, 274
Scheweningen Shoal, 267
Schiedam Island, 679
Schildpadden Bay, 724
Schilpad Islands, 859
Schooner Rock, 1158
Schoorsteen Island, 767
Schooteroog Island, 869
Scorpion Point, 115
Scout Shoal, 481, 482,488
Sea Cat Rock, 1061

,, Dog Rock, 1061
Seahorse Shoal, 650, 653-

654, 667
Sea Island, 620
Seal Point, 854

,, Rocks, A07
Seao-Seao Island, 1074
Seao-tan Island, 1019
Seaou-keu Island, 1084
Seaou-yew Island, iioo
Sea Rock, 175
Seasons, 1-25 — (see Table

of Contents)

INDEX.

1307

Seatoi Bank and Island,

1025
Seauw Island, 882
Sebalick River, ig8
Sebezee Peak, 174
Seboeko, or Sebuko Island,

175
Sebuku Island, 794
Secam Island, 536, 537, 538
Second Bar, Canton Kiver,
982-983, 985

,, Point, 157, 193

,, Thomas Shoal, 665
Sedangoli, 874
Sedano Cape, 706, 717, 749
Sedan Rock, 1028
Sedarie Point and Reefs,
687-689

,, River, 68g
Sededap Island, 619
Sedo Gawa River, 1208
Sedua Besar Island, 309

,, Ketchil Island, 309
Sedulang Shoal, 710
Seeacle Cape, 540
Seemagoup Bay, 540
Seera Island, 336
Segaar Bay, 858
Segara Anakan, 728

,, Arrakan. 728
Segattal Island, 759
Segoro Bight, 721

,, Wedie Bay, 720-721
Segyam Islands, 569
Sehel Passage, 729
Selamo Peak, 786
Selamata Channel, 612
Selanga Islands, 314
Selaparang Jsland, 754-

759
Selatan Island, 315
Selat-Mata Channel, 612
Selema, 853
Selentang Island, 300
Selindang Island, 308
Seloeting Reef, 274
Selo Pajong, 721
Seluan Island, 6ig
Selun Island, 886
Semao Island, 785
Semapi Reef, 619
Sembilangan, 700
Semboelan River, 206
Sembolang Point, 316, 328
Sembuni Shoals, 614
Semgum Point, 853
Semieuw Island, 856
Semione Island, 620
Semiroe Mount, 719

,, Peak, 671, 703
Sempoe Island, 720
Sempo Mount, 811
Sendai Bay, 1196-1197

,, Saka, 1232
Senda Saki, 11S2, 1183
Sendock Rock, 612
Sendulang Islands, 309
Sengarang Island. 322

Senggera Rocks, 324
Senhouse Island, 1095
,, Mount, 966
Senior Island, 237
Senoang Island, 618
Seno de Bazol Road, 602
Sentry Island, 1028

,, Rock, 1 142, 1 144
Senubing Cape, 618
Seo-liu-kiu Island, 1037
Seoluk Island, 1070
Sepadian Island, 281
Se pan-gow Bay, 540
Seputan Volcano, 811
Serai Island, 616
Seraja Mount, 745
Serangan Island, 746
Serang Point, 7^9

Shoal, 676
Serapong Mount, 370
Serassa Rock, 681
Seraya Island, 770
Serayoe River, 725
Serbette Island, 779
Seriphos Rock, 1170
Sermattan Island, 838
Seroea, 839
Sero Rocks, 722
Serpent Rock, 1035
Serra Island, 842
Serua Island, 839
Serussa, 837
Serwatty Islands, 836
Seshan Islands, 1101-1102
Scsostris Rock, logg
Setan Island, 765, 766
Seto-da Jima, 1216
Setonda Island, 762
Seto Uchi, The, 1164, 1201-
1224
,, Western En-

trance, 1222
Seven Islands, 222, 295, 807

,, Rocks, 1232

,, Sins Ro'-ks, 911

,, Sisters Islands, iioi

„ Stars Islands and
1066
Severn Shoal, 267
Sewshan Island, 1088
Sey-ho Point, 943
Seymour Bay and Point,

1049
Shaaon Harbour, 1087
Shadwell Island, 5S1
Shag Island, 1079

,, Rock, 1007
Shahbundar Bank and

Shoals, 1S2
Sha-ho Island, 1073
Shaku Shi, 1226
Shala Island, 449
Sha-lui-tien Island and

Banks, 1149, 1152-1153
Shamien, 986, 990
Sha-mo Island, 1 146
Shanghai, 941, 1104, 1122-

1126

Shang-kau Bay, 1139
Shang Rock, 1071
Shang-ta Island, 1071
Shanpee Islands, 872
Shantung Promontory and
Lighthouse,
113S-1140
,, Province, 1129

Shark-fin'Range, 581
Shark Island, 416
Sharksfin Bay, 583
Sharp Island, 956

,, Peak, 543, 994, 1138
,, Peak Island, 1057,
1061
Sharpshooter Shoal, 229
Sha-ti Point, 1153
Shaweishan Channel, 1106-
1108
,, Island and

Lighthouse,
1107, 1114
Shea Shoals, 665
Shei-luh Channel, 10S3
Sheipoo Harbour and Road,

1073-1074
Shekpywan Harbour, 962,

965
Shell Island, 577-578
Sheltered Bay, 422
Shelter Port and Island, 994
Shendora Mound, 11S3
Shepherdess Shoal, 637
Sheppey Island, 10S7-1089
Shetung Islands, 1070
Shtudi, 1168
Sheumen Pagoda, 470
Shicko Head, 992
Shika No Se Shoal, 12 1 1
Shingan Island, 1029
Shing-king Province, 1129,

1154

Shingshimun Pass, 967

Ship Island, 830, 833

Shirasai Saki, 1205

Shirasu Reef and Light-
house, 1223

Shiroi Iwa Rock, 1214

Shiro-se, 1226

Shi-siau Rock, 1160

Shitoe Bay, 94S

Shiwoya, 1210

Shoal Bay, 1003, 1012
,, Island, 1000
,, Point, 798

Shoahvater Island, 241,258

Shoal-Water Island and
Shoals, 230-231

Shoe Island, 272, 293, 635,
862

Shore Reef, 235

Show Islands, 1092

Shu-a-tau Head, 1139

Shubets Volcano, 1253

Shuntuk, 990

Shwin-gan River, 1067

Siagut Point and Shoal, 514

Siak and River, 138, 148

1308

INDEX.

Siam, Gulf of, 400

,, Knoll, 401

,, Vocabulary, Money,
&c., 1258-1260
Sian-lu-tan Island, 1160
Siantan Island, 612
Siao Island, 882
Siassi Island, 885
Siau-ching-shan Island,

1139
Siau Head, 1054
Siau-hi-shan Island, 1146
Siau-kung-tau Island, 1133
Siau-sha Shoal, 1138
Siayan Island, 939
Sibago Island, 893
Sibanag Island, goo
Sibaroe Island, 795
Sibaru Island, 795
Sibbald Bank, 795
Sibet Bay, 376
Sibou Islands and Channel,

401
Sibou Kukus Island, 401
Sibuguey Bay, 898
Sibutu Island, 887-888
Sibuyan Island, 905, 924
Sicojan Island, 910
Sido Island, 765
Side Saddle Islands, 1093
Sierra Madre Mountains,

926
Siete Pecados Rocks, 911
Sigayan Promontory, 927
Signal Head and Light-
house, 1235, 1240
,, Hill, 1009
Si-haa-shan Island, 1159
Si Jalore Shoal and Buoy,

481
„ Kiang River, 950, 990-

991
Si-ki Island, 1005
Sikine Sima Island, 1195
Sikok Island, 1164, 1172
Silanga Bay and Peak, 582
Silanga Islands, 583, 910
Silanguin Port, 600-601
Silanja Point, 933
Silensing Island, 337

,, River, 113

Silingsing Point, 377
Siloso Mount, 371
Silugu Island, 378
Silungan Mount, 488
Silver Island, io85
Simabara, 1167, 1233-1234
Sima Cape, 1175
Si-ma-ha-ra-cha Island, 424
Simanahan Reef and

Channel, 534
Simara Island, 925
Simidzu, 1178
Simo Bank, 594
Simoda Harbour, 1167,

1179-1180
Simonamba Cape, 1217
Simono Ko Siki, 1229-1230

Simonor Island, 887
Simonoseki and Strait,

1218-1222
Simpang, 337

,, Olim River, 142

,, River, 281

Simplegades Island, 1230
Simplicia Wreck Rocks,

1016
Sinagawa, 11S8
Sina Island, 179
Sinano River, 1165
Sinay Isle, 605
Sin Cowe Island, 664
Sindo, 178

Sindoro Mountain, 693
Singapore, Strait of, 357-

399
,, 106, 366-381

,, Island, 367

Light, 398
,, Old Strait, 358,

382-383
,, Rock, 1249

Singhapura, 366
Singkawan River, 286
Single Island and Rock,

998, 1002
Singora, 410
Sinhama, 1217
Sin Island, 1074
Sinkep Island, 297, 336

,, Laut Island, 336
Sinki Channel and Beacons,
358-360
„ Strait, 378
Sinkong Point, 1086
Sinta Rock, 1014
Siolon Island, 319
Sipang Thumb, 485
Sipsipa Island, 862
Siquijor Island, 908
Siragalo Peninsula, 729
Sira Island, 755
Sirakami Cape, 1249, 1252
Sirasai Saki, 1205
Sireen Rocks, 736
Sirhassen Islands and Pass-
age, 614-615
Siribuat Islands, 402
Sirie Island, 292
Sirik Point, 4S8, 490
Siriya Saki, 1252

,, ,, and Light-
house, 1199-
1200
Sir James Brooke Point, 569
Siro Islands, 1223
,, Jama Mountain, 1166
,, Sima, 1237
Siruma Bay and Island, 932
Sirumpa Rock, 714
Siru River, 4S0
Sishan, 1133
Sisiran, Puerto de, 932
Sisir Island, 773, 819
Sisters Islands, 179, 360,
602, 1015

Si-Ting Island, 1002
Sitziwura Bay, 1234
Siumpu Island, 814
Siwa Cape, 816
,, Reef, 758
Siwokubi Cape, 1249, 1251
Sivvo Misaki and Light,
1207
,, ,, Point, 1172,

1173
Six-feet Bank, 835
Six Islands, 252, 258

,, Peak Mountains, 234
Siyako, 1212
Siza Rock, 1247
Sizikuts Cape, 1221, 1222
Skead Islet, 1016, 1093
Skel Rock, 721
Skimomu Island, 1225
Slakouw River, 286
Slaman Gat, 832
Slan Bay and River, 204
Slaney Head, 1158
Slatan Bank, 713
Sleepy Bay, 480
Sleino River, 198
Slime Islet, 809

„ Rock, 508
Sloko Hills, 752
Sloping Point, 1144
Slut Island, 1029
Small Bar, Canton River,
982

,, Island, 278, 705
Smith Island, 583-584, 1193
Smits Bank, 215
Smooth Hill, 582
Smotz Ura Bay, 1204
Snake Point, 477

,, Rock, 582
Soangie Island, 780
Soa Sia, 877
Society Bay, 1159
So-co Hill, 1041
Sodogawa River, 1188
Sodon Point, 152, 726
Soegalie Shoal, 692
Soela Isles, 821
Soembawa Island, 761-769
Soembing Peak, 671

,, Mountain, 693

Soembreng Bay, 721
Soemoer Island, 158
Soengal Island, 173
Soensang River, 196
Soerabaya, 702-704
Soeroeaki Island, 851
Soja Cape, 1165
Sogean, 755
Sogod Bay, 933
Soko Islands, 959, 968
Solitary Rock, 1065

,, Sharp Peak, 207
Soloman Point, 478
Solombo Islands, 738
Solo River, 700, 703
Solor Strait and Island, 777
779

INDEX.

1309

Sombawa Island, 761-769
Sombocagon Bay, 928
Sombrero Islands, 909

„ Rock, 423, 923

Sonapa Inlet, 763
Songi, 815

Songie Kalarang River, 385

,, Romynia River, 385

Songi Kisoe^ean River, 194

,, Liat, 263
Songka River, 461
Song-men Point, 1070
Song-yui Point, 944
Sooloo Archipelago, 884-

894
Soon Kong Island, 992
Sophia Louise Rock, 757

Reef, 866
Sorcery Island, 830
Sore Island, 321
Sore Reefs, 333
Sorrel Rock, 102 5
Sorsogon Harbour, 904
Soruetou Island, 279-280
Sosa Cape, 774
Sosogon Bay, 929
Sotja Bight, 701
Sotonohirase Rock, 1235,

1240
Sotroma Road, 788
Soubie Reef, 628
Soubi Island, 616
Soudan Island, 1071
Soundal Point, 508
Soung, 889-890
Sourabaya, 671, 686-688,
702-704
,, Strait and

Light Ves-

, sel, 696-704

Sousou Mount, 484
Souteland Reef, 8i8-8ig
Southampton Rock, 1179
South Ardasier Shoal, 664

„ Bar Bank Beacon,

493
,, Bay, 1012
,, Brother Island, 136
,, Cape, Formosa, 1033
,, Channel Island, 580
,, Coast Passage, Min

River, 1058
,, East Cape, Java,

752-753
,, Island, 245,252, 290,

782, 814, IIOI
,, E?.st Island, 306, 1141
,, ,, Point, Java, 719
,, „ Shoals, 532
Southern Pillars Rocks, 937
South Furious Shoals, 510
,, Harbour, 514
,, Haycock Island, 614
,, Hummock Hill, 128
„ Ledge, 389
„ Luconia Shoals, 649
,, Mangsee Island, 531
,, Merope Shoal, 1017

South Mound Hill, 113
,, Natuna Islands, 614-

618
,, Passage Island, 344,

582-583
„ Peak, 251
,, Point, 3S4
,, ,, Java, 719

,, Reef, 547
,, Regent Shoal, 540
,, Rock, 125, 584, 1049
,, Saddle Island, 1093
., Sands, 126-127
,, Shoal, 534
,, Sibou Island, 401
,, Tai-Tai Island, 5S1
„ Tub Bataha, 921
,, Watcher Island, 457,
736-737' S07
. ,, West Bank, 920
„ Bay, 633
,, Western Group, 307
,, West Island, 306
,, ,, Patches, 523

,, ,, Point, For-

mosa, 1036
,, Wizard Rock, 949
Southwood Island, 900
South Yit Island, 1027
Sovel Island, 457
Sowerby Shoal, 264
Sow Islets, 878
Sozu Sima, 1211
Speelman Bay, 857
Speke Rock, 336, 351
Spencer Cape, 860
Spermonde Archipelago,

805
Spex Strait, 1241-1243
Spider Island, 1063
Spire Island, 1016

,, Islet, 1095
Spirit Island, 830

,, of the North Shoal,
291
Spiteful Islet and Rock,

1059-1060
Spit Point, 1146
S Point, 436
Spratly Island and Beacon,

622-623
Sprat Point, 547
Squall Islands, 107 1

„ Point, 554, 578
Square Island, 115S

,, Island and Light,

1098
,, Islet, 1015
,, Peak, 1057
,, Rock, 1026
„ Rock Pomt, 1244
,, Rocks, 1063
,, Stone Island, 1084
,, Top Islands, 586
Squat Rock, loio
Sroyoe Island, 722
Stags Shoal, 663
Stanlake Island, 577-578

Stanton Channel, 189, 215-

219
Stapah Point, 391
Starboard Jack Reef, 1075
Station Island, 1028
Staunton Island, 1133,1137
Stavely Mount, 546
Steenboom Cape, 856
Steep Cape, 349
Steep-fall Range, 522
Steep Island, 1035

,, Islet, 993
Steeple Island, 1052
Steep Point, 545
Steward Rock, 10S7
Stick-up Rock, 1141
Stokong Island, 621
Stolze Channel, 227, 249-

260
Stone-cutters Island, 967
Stone of Onrust Rock, 679
Stone Peak, 1042
Stork Reef, 386
Storm Islanil and Beacon,

622-623
Straggler Island and Reef,

519 •
Stragglers Islands, 1070
Straits Settlements, 106
Strawstack Islands, 1065
Stroom Rocks, 163, 17S
Struisvogel Bank and

Shoal, 675-680
Stumba Island, 477
Sual Port, 603
Suang Bunah, 891
Suangi Island, 823
Subig Port, 600
Subi Islands, 616
Subong Bay and Point, 325
Succadana, 282
Success Reef, 620
Suchau and Creek, 11 17,

1123
Sugarloaf Channel and Is-
land, lOIO
„ Hill, 9-K
,, Island, 234, 910,
1000
Suga Sima Point and Light,

1 176
Sugob, 930

Suji Island and Strait, 34S
Sukadana, 282
Sukur Island, 771
Sulaman River, 506
Sula Port, 931
Sullivan Reefs, 261
Sulphur Point, 983
Sul Rock, 1013
Sultana Shoal, 922
Sultan Bank, 923

,, Snoal, 359, 362
Sulu Archipelago, 8S4-894

„ Island, 889-891

,, Sea, 916-924
Sumanap, 707
Sumatra Bank, 149

1310

INDEX.

Sumatra, Coast of, 137-149,
165-199

,, Rivers, 196

,, Rock, 141
Sumba Island, 775-777
Sumbawa Bay, 762

,, Island, 761-769

,, West Coast, 759-

761

,, South Coast of,

768
Sumbing Reef, 709
Sumegi Saki, 1179
Sumilon Island, 908 "
Sumpat Bay and Reefs, 393
Sumur Island, 158
Sunda Rock, 1030
Sundar Spit, 491-493
Sunda, Strait of, 150-180
Sunday Bank, 888
Sung-ami Rock, 1205
Sung-ei Moar River, 133
Sung-hei Batu Pahat River,

133
Sunghy Ujong, 129
Sungie Sumpit River, 117
Sung-seu Bay and Island,

1022, 1023
Sun-kong Island, 962, 967
Sunk Rock, 246, 248, 249,

locS
Sun Strait, 830, 832
Supply Rock, 1 180
Surabaya, 702-704
Surat Castle Shoal, 756
Surigao Islands and Strait,

900
Surinam Strait, 821
Suruga Gulf, ii77--ii78
Surveyor's Island, 1136
Susaki, 1179

,, Harbour, 1172
Su Saki Point, iigo
Su-shan tau Island, 1137
Susquehanna Bay, 1187
Sussarat Island, 172
Susua Cape, 817
Susuga Saki, 1185
Sutherland Rock, 1137
Sutrana Road, 788
Sutsini, 1254
Suwa Lakes, 1165
Suwo Nada, 1218
Suwonada Rock, 1005
Suzume Rock, 1237
Sveno Yama Mountain,

1189
Swain Reef, 1242
Swallow Bank, 1133
,, Reef, 664
„ Rock, 185

Swatow, 941, 1011-1012
Swinger Rock, 1238
Syang Island, 870
Syau-ki Point, 1045
Sye-ho Point, 943
Sylock Island, 952, 958
Sylvia Mount, 1042

Sywan Bay, 992
Sz'chuen Province, 1104

Taai Manoe Islands, 806

Taal Volcano, 926

Tabako Cape, 817

Tabanan Mount, 745

Tabawan Island, 886

Tablas Island, 913, 925

Table Head, 416, 572
„ Hill, 486, 759, 1042
,, Island, 245, 252, 256,

1053
,, Islet, 994
„ Point, 547, 747, 1 158
,, Rock, 115, 413

Tablet Island, 1053

Table Top Island, 564-565

Tabo Cape, 872

Taboean Island and Light-
house, 749-750

Tabu Sima, 1248

Tacbolo Island, 558

Tac-bo-lu-bu, 569

Ta-chen Island, 1089

Ta-ching-shan Hill, 1138

Tachin River, 427

Ta-chu-san Island, 1145

Tacloban, 895, goi

Tadjem Hill, 251

Tae Islands, 1065-1066

Tae-pan Point and Shoal,
1018

Tae-pih Islands, 1068

Tae-slian Island and Chan-
nel, 1091-1092

Tae-tan Island and Light,
1019

Tafelborg Volcano, 749

Tafel Cape, 753

Tafelhoek Point, 743, 747

Tafou Peak, 1073

Tagal Island, 170, 691-692
,, Peak, 671

Taganac Island, 918

Tagao Island, 8S6

Tagbach, 593

Tagil Island, 910

Tagiran Point, 929

Tagne Island, 448

Tagnipa Inlet, 548

•Tago Bay, 1178

Ta-go-ra-ras Cliff, 542

Tagowlu Island, 894

Tagubanhan Island, 910

Tagulanda Island, 881

Tagun Bay, 932

Taheen Rock, 1025

Ta-hi-shan Island, 1146

Ta-hu-san River, ii6o-ii6r

Tai Bing Canal, 463

Tai-cho River, 1153

Tai-chau Bay and River,
1072

Tai-chau Fu, 1072

,, Islands and
Rocks, 1071

Tai-kia, 1042

Taiku Mount, 445

Tai-kung tau Island, 1133

Tai-lung River, 990, 991

Taimano, 776

Taio Bank, 687

Taioe Bank, 696

Ta Island, 850

Tai-pin San Islands and

Rocks, 1050-105 1
Tai-Tai, 560

,, Bay and Fort,

581-583
Tai-ta-mi Channel and

Island, 960
Taitoo Island, 993
Tai-wan-fu, 1032, 1038,

1039-1040
Taja Island, 888
Taka Bakang Bank, 797
Takaboko Island, 1238
Takadoosi Yama Hill, 1204
Takaikami, 1213
Taka Iso Kock, 1210
Takami Island, 1212
Takanaba Island, 1202
Takarie Cape, 817
Taka Romata Shoal, 797
Taka Sima, 1205, 1229,

1230, 1236, 1239, 1241
Takat Fimor Shoal, 709

,, Gomok Shoal, 709

,, Tinga Shoal, 709
Takau, 1038
Ta-kau-kon, 1037-1039
Take Saki, 1219

,, Sima Island, 1170

,, Yama, 1183
Takigawara Seto, 1227
Takong Besar Island, 349

,, Ketchil Island, 549
Takow Harbour, 941, 1038-

1039
Taku Forts, 1152
Takura Saki, 1204
Taku-schan, 1160-1161
Takut Pabunuan Shoal, 890
Talabo Cape, 813
Ta-lan-dac, 565
Talang Island, 319
Talango Island, 706
Talan Islands, 480
Talantam Bank, 888
Talanuru Cape, 854
Talapan Point, 811
Talaut Islands, 883
Talbot Shoal, 867
Talenading Islands, 873
Taliabo Island, 821-822
Talian Bay, 8go
Ta-lien-whan Bay, 1159-

1160
Taliwang Bay, 760
Tallack Shoal, 291
Talolen, 933
Taluk Island, 890, 1070
Talung Island and Shoal,

IIOO, IIOI

Ta-lu-tan Island, 1160

INDEX.

1311

Tamagawa, 1245
Tamah Boemboe, 798
Tamandam, 847
Tamano;o, Puerto de, 934
Tama No Ura, 1228
Tamarind Island, 174
Tambaga Rocks, 704, 706
Tambangadin River, 198
Tambang Point, 719
Tamba Point, 928
Tambelan Islands, 307, 308
Tambelaoeang Island, 773,

8ig
Tambisan Island, 888
Tamboeloengan Island, 819
Tambongon, 931
Tambora Volcano, 761, 763
Tambove Road, 602
Tam-chau Channel, 990-991
Tameay Isles, 863
Tameitsi Bay, 1234
Tam-giang-khau River, 432
Tamkan Island, 960, 975
Tammassou Island, 416
Tamoeang Rocks, 697
Tamo-shan Mountain, 1134
Tampang Bank, 167
Tampassuk River, 509
Tampoerokh, 763
Tam-Quam River, 453
Tam-sui Harbour and River,

941, 1043-1044
Tamtu Island, 992, 993
Tanabe Bay and Cape, 1206
Tana Keke Island, 803
Tanah Laut, 740

,, Putie River, 147
Tanal Point, 7S5
Tanara and River, 674
Tanay, go8

Tanda Po Lakki Rock, 681
Tando Passage, 729
Tandu Point, 892
Tanega Sima Island, 1170
Tangara Rock, 680
Tangfow Island, 1081
Tang-Kang River, 1037
Tangout Rock, 502
Tangusu Bay, 883
Tanji Island, 1225
Tanjong Ajermata, 739

Along-Ajang, 154
,, Allang, 825
Tanjongan Point, 701
Tanjong Agal, 511
,, Ares, 798
,, Api, 312, 480
,, Awat, 120
,, Baginda, 199
„ Bali, 487
,, Bantil, 199
,, Barram, 488
,, Batoe Blad, 286
„ Battang, 515
,, Batu Bessao, 873
,, Batubrani, 210
,, Batu Putie, 139-
140

Tanjong Batu Sow, 394
,, Bayor, 800
,, Bedaauw, 204
,, Bedalla Toea, 740
,, Bersiap, 210, 212
,, Biat, 212

Bienga, 251, 255
,, Binor, 715
,, Blanhap, 304
,, Boekoe, 298

,, Boerong, 740

,, Bolus, 136, 358
,, Bomban, 394

Brakit, 304, 392

,, Buddoh, 382

,, Buru, 136

Catong, 369, 373

,, Crassok, 226, 263

,, Datu, 480

,, Dewa, 795

,, Doeya, 199

,, Dua, 199

,, Eung, 298

,, Ginting, 224

,, Goere, 141

,, Gukulang, 157

Gul, 358

,, Hantu, 115

,, Hatan, 824

,, Jaboeng, 334, 350,

356

„ Jati, 148

,, Jerri, 484

,, Jurung-patt, 206

,, Kaetan, 504, 505

,, Kalutan, 514

,, Kamuning, 128

,, Kaniongan, 8or

,, Karrah, 204

,, Kejang, 199

,, Klambang, 803

,, Kling, 129

,, Koeakho, 854

,, Laboe, 235

,, Labu Bua, 759

,, Laikan, 803

,, Libobo, 872

,, Lompat, 390

,, Lussong, 159

,, Malalajer, 739

,, Mampawa, 283

,, Mangkop, 794

,, Mapoei, 854

,, Mattie, 144

,, Melalu, 225

,, Miira, 798

,, Moncudu, 263

,, Mungayeu, 827
Napal, 168
Nongsa, 394

,, Oclar, 210, 212

,, Pajang, 287

,, Pamant\ ngan,794

,, Para, 853

,, Peie, 136

,, Penegang, 206

„ Pengair, 394

„ Penyusoh, 385

Tanjong Penyusu, 225
„ Pergam, 394
,, Pinang, 322
,, Po, 480
,, Poeding, 739
,, PuchatMuka,io8-

109
,, Pulo Tega, 502
,, Puni, 207
,, Punji, 390
,, Raya, 206
,, Ressam, 206
,, Rhoo, 369
,, Riah, 262
,, Roe, 298
,, Sambar, 739
,, Samoedin, 283
,, Sangoa, 283
,, Saparoak and

Shoals, 515
„ Sipang, 480, 481

Siquang, 395
,, Sirik, .484-4S5
,, Sedow Malang,

284
,, Segie, 140
,, Seginting, 133
,, Soengibaroe, 740
,, Somoet, 287
,, Stapah, 384
„ Subong, 394
,, Sukal, 207
,, Supong, 182
,, Tadah, 206, 223
,, Tanah Roboe, 200
,, Tedong, 204, 206
,, Teeram, 384
,, Tehimpang, 384
,, Telakai, 800
,, Tjandibang, 749
,, Toka, 176
,, Tor, 133

Treng, 394
,, Tuan and Light-
house, 128-129
,, Tuen, 263
,, Tykorang, 161
Wawolle, 825
Tankel Island, 170
Tankyngi Parrie Point, 158
Tanna Cape and Reef, 691
,, Kenappan Shoal,

676
,, Tyumba Island, 775
,, Ura Seto, 1229
Tano Bank, 1219
Tanon Point and Strait, 908
Tanqualah Island, 414
Tanto-shan Island, 1073
Tanue Ba}', 1067
Taosao Island, loig
Taou-hwa Island, 1080
Taou-sau-mun Channel,

1079-10S0
Ta-outse Harbour, 10S6
Taow-pung Island, 1070
Tapaam Island and Pas-
sage, 886

1312

INDEX.

Tapaam Shoal, 886
Tapan Island, 763
Tapayan Sands, 492-493
Tapiantana Island, 892
Taping Island, 1086
Tapi Point, 775, 776
Tapiutan Island, 562
Taplichau Island, 965
Tappi Island, 878
Tapul Islands, 885
Tapullaiig, 806
Tara-cai-a-\van Island, 549
Tara Island, 8S5
Tarara Island, 1050
Tarong Point, 316
Tarremboe Bank, 164
Taske, 1243
Tatagen Island, 760
Tatan Mount, 486, 488

,, Point and River, 485,
486
Tataran Island, 892
Tatas Islands, 859
Tate Rocks, 262
Tathong Channel, 992

,, East Rock, 992
Tati Yama Bay, 1189
Tatoi Island, 1025
Ta-tsing ho River, 1147
Tatsupi Saki, 1252
Taui-Taui Island, 886
Tau-tsui Head, 1137
Tauw Island, 839
Tawalan River, 506
Tavi^ali Island, 878
Tawar Island, 759
Tawing, 720
Tawi-Tav^'i Islands, 886-

887
Tawoo Island, 1084
Taya Islands, 472, 480
Ta-yang Ho River, 1160-

1161
Tay-bay-u Bay, 544
Tay-giang River, 432
Ta-yew Island, 1099
Tayung Island, 1095
Tcha-lien-tau Island, 1133,

1136
Tchavia River, 432
Tea Island, 1084
Teboenkoes, 744-745
Tebunkos, 744-745
Tebunkus, 743
Teeksou Island, 416
Teen Island, 1081
Teep-chow Island, 944-945
Tega Islands, 502
Tegal and Rock, 691-692
Tegel Peak, 6gi
Tehor Island, 850-S51
Teignmouth Bank, 797
Teijo Island, 10S4
Teinga Island, 894
Tein-tung, 1097
Tekere Island, 416
Teksia Peak, 416
Telaga Islands, 611

Telagu Woerong Volcano,

749
Teles Amoi Point, 141
Telok Batoh Bay, 273

,, Berow, S57

,, Belong and Light,
170-171

,, Longas Bay, 757
Telokh Saka Bay, 801
Telok Samoi, i^ i

,, Sintang, 142
Teloo Point, 197
Teluk Point, 507
Temerario Rock, §21
Temiang Island and Strait,

339, 340
Temoel Cape, 807
Temontangis Mount, 890
Tempelang River, 206
Temperan Beach, 723
Teviperatiirc, 39-40 (See

Table of Contents)
Temple Head, 1154
,, Island, 1 146
,, Point and Rock,
1056, 1058
Templer Bank, 667
Templo Island, gog
Tempora Hill, 716
Temposan Fort and Light,

1208-1209
Tempoza Island, 165
Tenabian Island, 557
Ten-feet Rock, 1212
Tengani Island, 765
Tengar Island, 763
Tengaroeng, Soo
Teng-chau and Head, 1 144-

1145
,, Bank, 1145

Tengo Rock, 1241

Tenimber Islands, 840-841

Teodore Point, 555

Teomabal Island, S92

Teon Island, 83g

Tepa, 83g

Tepie Island, 763

Teralta Island, 784

Terang Bay, 770

Tera Sima, 1225

Teregeh Point, 377

Tereh Point, 377

Terempa, 610, 612-613

Terkolei Island and Light-
house, 322-323

Ternate Island, 874-876

Ternati, Residence of, 802

Terrace Head, 986

Terumbo Careemon Shoal,
362

Te^sara Islands, 1029

Tetampan Group, 340

Tetawa Bank, 260

Teyih Point, 998

Tejnga Island, 894

Thalia Bank, 1024

Thetis Channel, 613

Third Point, 157, 159

Third Point and Beacon,
194
,, Thomas Shoal, 664
Thirtieth of June Island,

572
Thi-tu Island and Reefs,

628-629
Thomas Shoal, 319

,, Shoals, 664, 665
Thornton Island, 1089
Thousand Islands, 183, 736
Three Alike Islands, 795
,, and a Half Fathoms

Shoal, 572-573
,, Brothers Islands,
342-343. 803, 850
,, Chimney Bluff, 1014
,, Fathoms Shoal, 583,

995
Three-feet Rock, 509

,, Shoal, 250, 995

Three Friars Islets, 601

,, Gates Islands, 957

,, Hills Island, 1193

,, Island, 1055

,, Kings Rocks, 449-
450

,, Peaked Island, 547-
548
Throat Gates Passage, 969
Thu-dau-mot, 433
Thumb Peak, 308, 546, 573,
1073
,, Rock, 1020
Thunder Head, 1015
Thwart-the-Way Island,

163
Tiaka, loii
Tiampa Island, 338
Tiandie, 707-708
Tianiar, 745
Tianker, 717
Tiankier Island, 674
Ti-a-usu Island, 1048
Tibiao, 915, gi6
Ticao Island, 904-905
Tida, 776
Tide Point, 1009

,, Cove, 996, 997
Tide-pole Point, 548, 574
Tides, 25-38

,, Amboyna Cay, 663

,, Balabac Strait, 537

,, Banka Strait, igo-
191

,, Banka to Singapore,

304

,, Cagayan Sulu, 919

,, Carimata Strait, 271-
272

,, Chusan Archipelago,
1096-1097

,, Durian Strait, 347-
348

,, East Coast of Pala-
wan, 567-568

„ Fan-si-ak Channel,
979

INDEX.

1313

Tides, Macclesfield
nel, 239
,, Madura Strait, 711
,, Philippine Islands,

,, San Bernardino
Strait, 903

,, Sato Uchi, 1201-
1202

,, Singapore New Har-
bour, 3S0

,, Singapore Strait,

363-364
,, Sourabaya Strait,

697-698
,, Stanton Channel, 217
,, Tsugar Strait, 1252-

1253
,, Varella Strait, 347-

348
,, YangtseKiangRiver,

1110-1112
,, Yellow Sea, 1130-

1131
Tiding Islands, 6S0-681
Tidore Island, 876-877
Tie-ling, 1154
Tielin Island, 929, 930
,, Juag Island, 904
Tiega Islands, 171
Tiemara Bank and Islands,

316-317. 329
Tiempia Bay, 765
Tien-chwang-tai, 1154
Tien-fung Rock, 479
Tien-giang River, 430
Tienio Point, 705
Tien-pak, 942, 943
Tien-shan Lake, 1117
Tien-Tchu Cape, 455
Tientsin, 941, 1147-1148
,, ho River, 1147
Tieris Bay, 762
Tieroetioep Bay and River,

254
Tifore Island, 879
Tiga Islands, 171
,, Islet, 514
,, Shoal, 676
Tiger Island, Cochin China,
445, 446
,, Island, Canton River,

077, 981-982
,, Island Light, 1098
,, Islands, 819
Tiger's Tail Rock, iioo
Tihen-Pien, 943
Tikoes Island, 786
Tikok, 468
Tikong Bank, 383

,, Besar Island, 383
,, Ketchil Island, 383
Tikus Point, 168
,, Rocks, 402
Tilas, 912
Tiloe Mount, 731
Timbaga Rocks and Bea-
con, 203, 224
I, ^,

Chan- I Timbaga Rocks and Shoal,
379. 380
Times Rock, 1013
Timioka, 1233
Timmerlieden Rocks, 155
Timor, 784-792
,, Bank, 810
,, Laut Island, 840-

Tims Island, 173

,, Klip Rock, 172
Timu Peak, 788
Timur, 784-792
Tingeran River, 406
Tinghae, 1083-1084
Ting-hae Bay, 1003
Tinghai Harbour,io84-io86
Tingtae Bay, 1017
Ting-tsi Harbour and River,

1136-1137
Tinhosa Island, 480
Tinjang, 749
Tinker Rock, 1076
Tintao, 1059
Tioerie Lora Inlet, 763
Tiolik, 745

Tionfolokker Islands, 850
Tiora, 815
Tioro Strait, 815
Tiotek Reefs, 749
Tiottek, 717
Tiphou River, 453
Tiwan Cape, 443
Tiwora, 815
Tizard Bank and Reefs,

626-628
Tjamara Islands, 695
Tjampeah Island, 773
Tjampedak Island, 281
Tjandibang Point, 749
Tjankul River, 139
Tjassem, 687
Tjassens Shoal, 315
Tjeringie Reef, 160
Tjibinoeangan River, 735
Tjiboreno River, 732
Tjikoray Mount, 731
Tjilatjap, 671

,, Harbour and

Light, 724-728

Tjimiring Hill and Light,

725

Tjina Cape, 716

Tji Schel Channel, 730

Tjitando Harbour and In-
let, 724, 728-730

Tjoelik Point, 745

Toa Island, 850-851

Tobaco Gulf, 931

Toba Harbour and Light,
1176

Tobi Sima, 1203, 1236

Tobo, 852

Toboe Ali Lama Hill and
Point, 201

Todo Island, 765, 766

Toe, 749

Toeban, 747

Toedjoe Islands, 222
Toejoe Islands, 295
Toekan Mengkoedoe, 290
Toelang River, 182
Toempal Island, 177
Toeratte Bay, 803
Togagauno Bay, 905
Togean Islands, 813
Tohadgi Point, 1179
Tokei, 11S2, 1188
Token Bessie Islands, 835
Toki-tau Island, 1146
Tokokemo Island, 277
Tokoname, 1177
Tokul Bank and Buoy, 254
Tolanican Bay, 789
Tolie Island, 405
Tolo Cape, 812

,, Channel and Harbour,
996

„ Gulf, 813
To-lo-san Island, 1133
Tomahoe Mount, 822
Tomaiki Gulf, 813
Tomangai Island and Light,
1207-1208
,, Sima and Light,

1207-1208
To-maou Island, 1084
Tomb Islands and Reels,

344
„ Point, 478, 982
Tombra, 837

Tomini and Gulf, 812-813
Tomio Saki Point and

Light, 1175, 1176, 1183
Tomisa Reef, 805
Tonao Islands, 932-933
Tondo, 925

Tonegawa Point, 1189
Tone Gawa River, 1196
Tongak Rock, 729
Tongao Islands, 933
Tongarron, 800
Tong-bu Bay, 1026
Tongeon Mountain, 480
Tong-ho Island, 955-956
Tongkalie Island, 168
Tong-kin-, 479
Tong King, Gulf of, 456
Tongkuil Island, 892
Tong-ku Island and Har-
bour, 969
Tong-lae Point, 1008
Tongmi Point, 1004
Tongsang Harbour, 1015
Tongsha, 1056
Tong-sha Island, 1030
Tong-siau, 1042
Tong-sim-tai Reef, 1035
Tongting Island, 10S7, 1113
Tongue Islands, 290-291

,, Shoal, 1059
Tong Whang Islands and

Rocks, 1068
Tongyung, 1015
Tonin Islands, 819
Tonos Islands, 402
8e

1314

INDEX.

Tonozaki, 1225
Tonquay Island, 949
Tonquin, Gulf of, 456
Tonyn Island, 797
,, Islands, 819
Toong Hong Shan Moun-
tain, 943
Too-shan Cape, 461
Topics Islands, 320
Toppers Hoedje, 850

,, ,, Island,

165
Topsail Peak, 480
Toren Island, 774
Tori Ishi Rock, 1213
Toriwi Saki, 1249, 1252
Tormana Rocks, 788
Tortel Island, 342
Tortoise Head, 959

,, Rock, 1054
To Sima Island, 1195
Tossapon Hill, 1036
Toty Island, 296
Toucon Mountain, 478
Toulak Point, 501
Touron Island, Bay, and

Cape, 455
Towan Island, 1070
Tower Head, 1142

„ Hill, 1158

,, ,, Island and

Channel,
1084, 1085

,, Island, 774

,, Point, 1132
Towling Flat, 982
Town Island, 995, 1065
Townsend Point, 542
Towsan Dooyon Island, 917
Towtow Point, 1092
Toyama Bay, 1246
T Point, 436
Tramway Ledge, 871
Trangan Island, 843
Tranjong Serbat, 847
Trann River, 459
Transept Hill, 525
Transit Rock, 212
Trawangan Island, 755, 758
Treacherous Bay, 544-545
Treaty Point and Light

Vessel, 1186
Treaty Ports, Japan, 1165

,, ,, Yangtse

Kiang River,
1 104
Treba, 776
Treble Islands, 1077
Trechter Channel, 711-713
Tree-a-top Island, 1000,

1078
Tree Island, Canton River,
978
,, China Sea,

645
„ Caspar Strait,

238, 269
„ Japan, 1204

Tree Island, Singapore
Strait, 365
,, Sumatra, 182

Tree Island Bay, 948
Islands, 349
Peak, 491-493
Point, 235, 482
Rock, 205, 340, 1237
Saddle Hill, 1190
Trees Cape, 809
Tre Island, 448
Trepang Island, 578
Triangle Islands, 796, 1098
Trident Shoal, 497, 499,

629-630
Tring, 755, 757
Tringano Head and River,

407
Trinidad Shoal, 795-796
Trio Islets, 993-994

,, Rocks, 1171
Triple Island, 1000, 1073
,, Island and Peak,

583-584
Triple-top Island, 543
Tripoint Island, 1095
Triton Bay and Sandbank,
855. 856
,, Island, 641-642
Trong River, 113
Trower Island, 152
Trowers Island, 735
Truce Head, 543
Trumball Island, 1084
Trunk Point, 1081
Truro Shoal, 606
Tsae Island, 1089
Tsang-chau Island, 1000,

lOOI

Tsang Islets, 1067
Tsaou-su Island, 1047
Tsau-liang-hai Harbour,

1162
Tseigh Islands, io58
Tse-le Island and Light,

1098
Tseoompyoon River, 410
Tseu Island, 457
Tsiang Island, 1052-1053
Tsieching, 1004
Tsiech Point, 1003
Tsien-tang River, 1103
Tsigi Sima, 1234
Tsika Rock, 1230
Tsikiji, 1188
Tsikugo-gawa, 1234
Tsi-mi-wan Island, 959
Tsi-nan fu, 1147
Tsincoe Island, 1000
Tsing-hai-wei Point, 1137
Tsing-seu Island and Light-
house, 1018
Tsiring Sima, 1231
Tsiuka Cape, 1249, 1252
Tskahara Bay, 1205
Tsua Saki, 1226
Tsugar Strait, 1164, 1200,
1248-1253

Tsuji Sima, 1233
Tsukarase Rocks, 1230
Tsung-ming Island, 1105
Tsuno Sima and Light-
house, 1244
Tsuri Sima and Lighthouse,

1217
Tsuruga, 1209

Bay, 1245
,, Saki and Light,
1182
Tsusima Island, 1165
Tsutara Sima, 1228
Tsuya Sima Island, 1174
Tuallah, 848
Tub Bataha Islands and

Reefs, 92X
Tuft Island, 575
Tuguian Point, 927
Tukan Bissi Islands, 815,835
Tuka Point, 741
Tulang Bank, 182

,, Ikan Bay, 789
Tulian Rock, 890
Tulloh Mati Ikan, 381

,, Sumpat, 393
Tuluan Hill, 558
Tuluran Island, 555, 556
Tulur Islands, 883
Tulyan Island, 890
Tumbora Volcano, 761, 763
Tumindao Island, 888
Tundalara Mount, 588
Tund Island, 709
Tungao Road, 1007
Tungchuh Islands and

Rocks, 1071, 1072
Tung-chung, 968
Tung-hai Sea, 1128
Tung-ju, 1077
Tung Kiang River, 979
Tung-ki Island and Rocks,

1005
Tung-kuan, 983
Tunglung Island, 993
Tung Plong Bay, 423
Tung-pwan Island, 1067-

1068
Tung Kitea Bay, 423
Tungsha Banks and Light
Vessel, 1 105,
1107, 1108, 1109,

1115
,, Island, 1062
Tung-Ting Island, 1002
Tung-ting Lake, 1104
Tung Yai Bay and River,

420
Tung-ying Island, 1062
Tuni-ang Islands and

Rocks, 998-999, looi
Tupak Hill, 4S6
Tupinier Bay, 612
Turia Rock, 910
Turkey Islands, 709
Turnabout Island and

Lighthouse, 1030
Turret Island, 1067

INDEX.

1315

Turtle-back Island, 408

Turtle Bay, 724

Turtle Island, Cochin China,

453
,, Borneo, 502

,, Java, 706-

707
Turtle Islands, Banda Sea,
836
,, Islands, Hainan, 480
,, Rock, Cupchi Point,

1006
,, Shoal, Gaspar Strait,
230, 244
Tu-shing Island, 1136
Tu Sima Island, ii6g
Tutomi Gulf, 1178
Tweede Point, 193
,, Punt, 157
Twee Gebroeders Moun-
tain, 693
Tweelings Islands, 755
Twee Vrienden Reef, 796
Twerin Island, 782
Twin Islands, China, 944,
1000, 1073
,, Durian Strait,

345
,, Lombok, 755

,, Siam, 418

Two-and-a-half Fathoms

Bank, 233
Two and a half Fathoms

Shoal, 571
Two Brothers Islands, 185,

794
,, Rocks, 1090

,, Fathoms Patch, 233
,, ,, Rock, 489

,, Paps Rocks, 452
,, Sisters Islands, 602
Peak, 812
Tyan-kiang River, 1042
Tyankoy Creek, 141
Tyanti, 171
Tycham Island, 467
Ty-Chook-Chow Island,

943-944
Ty-cock-tau Island, 980
Tyfore Island, 879
Ty-fu Island, 981
Ty-fung-kyoh Island, 943
Tyger Islands, 772, 819
Tygosan Island, 1084, 1097
Ty-ho Island, 967-968
Tyka, 1042
Tykam Island, 949
Ty-lock Island, 958
Ty-lo Island, 957-958
Tylong Head and Light-
house, 967, 992
Tylou Island, 949
Tymong Island, 949
Tyna Cape, 716
Tynrana Bay, 806
Ty-oa Point and Bay, 945
Typa Anchorage and
Island, 951-952

Typa Island, 866

Typung Bay and Harbour,

997. 999
Tyringin Reef, 160
Ty-sami Inlet and Mound,

1003
Ty-sing-cham Rock, 1002
Tytam Bay, 967
Ty-wok Island, 945-946
Tz-chu-lin, 1148

Ubian Island, 891

Ucona Rocks, 1179

Udar Island, 504

,~, Kechil Island, 504
,, Tega Island, 504

Udsi Sima, 1230

Ujong Ballai, 148
,, Bantam, 147
,, Byan, 143
,, Kwala Lanksa, 143
,, Perbabean, 147
,, Poneng, 138
,, Roquit, 143
,, Tamiang, 143
,, Tannang, 143

Ukado Point, 1211

Uki Sima Island, iigi

Uku Sima, 1225

Ular Bulu Mount, 485

Ulim Creek, 140

Ulugan Bay, 547-551, 575,
659

Umang Island, 158

Uma Sima, 1214

U-Ma Sima Islands, 1224

Umbrella Island, 196

Undung, 882

Ungay Point, 930

Ung-lo Hill, 1041

Union Bank, 796

Unsang Cape and Anchor-
age, 886, 888

Uraga and Channel, 1182,
1 183

Ura-Kami Harbour, 1174

Ura-no-goura, 1185

Urk Island, 708

Urmston Bay, 969

Ursula Island, 568

Use Rocks, 1171
,, Shoal, 1242

Ushi-ga No Kubi Point,

1243
Ushi Sim.a, 1212
Usu, 816
Usukan Island and Bay,

506, 508
Utanata River, S56
Utone Island, 1195
Utrecht Fort and Light, 751
Utu Island, 870

Vader Smit Shoal, 683
Valley Cone Hill, 545
Valsche Cape, 855

,, Eerst Point, 193

„ Point, 198

Vandalia Bluff, 1179
Van Diemen Strait, 1171
Vangan Point, 1028
Van Gogh Island and

Shoal, 317
Vang-tau, 433
Vanguard Bank, 621
,, Shoal, 658
Vansittart Saddle Hills,
1158
,, Shoal, 265, 864

,, Shoals, 232,

241
Van Tuyl Fort, 740
Varela Cape, 450

,, Reef, 144-145
Varella, 351

„ Island, 335,356
Strait, 334-356
Varkenshoek, 176
Vashon Cape, 1162
Vayag Island, 870
Vega Shoal, 267
Veldman Rock, 86g
Vele-rete Rocks, 1033
Velthoen Island, 835-836
Verbrandehoek Point, 812
Verde Island, 927
Verlaten Island, 173
Vernon Bank, 651-652

,, Island and Chan-
nel, 1077, 1080
Verwachting Fort, 821
Vestacado Rocks, 562
Vesuvius Rock, 770, 773
Vettor Pisani Islands, 859
Viak Island, 762
Viam-Benghe River, 437
Viam-kai-mep River, 432
Viam-tcheou River, 432
Victoria Bay, 1159
Fort, 825

,, Harbour, 496-497
Peak, 545,572,963

„ Shoal, 488-489,
848
Victory Island, 311, 619
Video Island, 1090
Vienna Islands, 859
Vierde Point, 195

,, Punt and Lights, 161
Vigan Road, 604
Village Bay, 572, 1143
Vinalo Island, 559
Vincennes Strait, 1170
Vincent Range, 1009
Vine Point, 445
Vmeta Rock, 1243
Viola Reef, 920
Viper Shoal, 653
Viri Island, 902
Visayas Islands, 895
Visita, 928

,, Manapla Island, gio
Visscher Island, 694
Vixen Spit, 1058
Vlakke Hoek, 166
Vlaming Islands, 869

1316

INDEX.

Vledermuis Bay, 719
Vogel Island, 857
Vogelnest Island, 290
Volcanic Islets, South-East

of Japan, 1192-1195
Volcano Bay, 1254
Volcanoes, 103-104
Volcano Island, 1170, 1194
,, Islands and Light,

1092
Vollenhoven Fort, 784
Voorland, 831
Vordate Island, 842
Vosmaer Bay, 813
V Point, 437, 441
Vries, Cape de, 1199

,, Island, 1181, 1190,

1 195
Vuladdore Shoal, 643-644
Vung-chao Port, 452
Vung-Gang Cove, 447
Vung-la Cove, 452
Vung-lam Port, 452
Vung-mon Point, 452
Vung-trich Point, 452
Vuyloy Shoal, 1040

Wada Misaki and Light,
1210

„ Sima Harbour, 1203
Waewoo Island, 1084
Wag-Ian Island, 963, 967
Waglan Islands, 992
Wahaay Bay, 853
Wai-chang Shan Islands,

1 160
Waigiou Island, 861
Waisima, 1246
Wakamatsu Sima, 1227
Wakayama, 1204
Wakura Sima, 1222, 1224
Waller Rock, 279
Wama Island, 844, 845
Wamuka River, 856
Wan-chu River and Island,

1068-1070
Wanckan Banks, 1041
Wanembai Island, 845
Wangchi Island, 1074
Wangi Wangi, 815

,, ,, Island, 835

Wang-kia-tai, 1132
Wang-mun River, 991
Wanki Bay, 1063
Wan-tao-kwan, 1102
Wan-tong Islands, 979, 980
Wantyi Island, 835
Wapen of Purmerend Rock,

682
Warangan Point, 713
Waratah Rock, 1065
Wari, 807
War Island, 158
Warren Hastings Reef, 264,

269
Warn Bay, 852-853
Washington Head, 542
Wasp Island, 947

Wass Island, 858
Watakano Sima Island,

1176
Watas Islands, 306
Watcher Islands, 457-458
Wa-teo Island, 1086
Watering Bay, 552, 947

,, Islands, 385
Water Island, 418, 830, 958

,, Islands, 131, 132-

133. 385. 950
Waters Rock, 123 1
Watson Bank, 157

,, Island, 985, 1022
,, Strait, 860
Watubella Island, 851
Waula, 844

Weather, Arru Islands, 842
,, Shanghai, 1126 .

„ Yellow Sea, 1 129-

1130
Wedge Head, 1173
Hill, 408
,, Island, 553, 1059
,, Rock, 114
Wedielo Bay, 776
Weedah Bay, 872

„ Islands, 868-869
Weichow Island, 469
Wei Hai Bay, 1134-1135
Wei-hai-wei Harbour, 1140
Welcome Bay, 152, 157-158

„ Point, 539

Welkomst Baai, 157-158
Wellesley Province, 106,
107
,, Shoal, 280

Welstead Rock, 305
Wemasee Anchorage, 791
Wessel Island, 857
West Bank, 920

,, Bank Beacon, 1156
,, Brother Island, 417,

859
Western Channel and
Buoys, 699-
700
,, Reef, 626

,, Shoals, 523

West Group, 277

Island, 183, 416, 616

London Reef, 624

Nangka Island, 205

Peak, 1012

Point, 259, 324

Reef, 205

River, Canton, 990-

99 1
Stork Island, iioi
Volcano Island and
Light, 1092
,, Water Island, 958
Wetang Island, 839
Wetta Island, 782-783
Weywongi Island, 813
Whaingan, 1131
Whaleback Hill, 1037
Whale Point, 1245

Whale Reef, 818-819

,, Rock, 386, 1002
Whales Crown Rock, 386
Whampoa, 983-9S6

,, Passage, Can-

ton River, 983
Whang-hai Sea, 1128-1129
Whang Head, 1082, 1089

,, Ho River, 1131
Whelps Islets, 1075
Whitcomb Island, 991
White Bluff, 1250

,, Dog Islands and
Lighthouse, 1030-
103 1
,, Dog Rocks, 1056
,, Fort and Beacon,

1044, 1059
,, Head, 996
,, Island, 272
,, Islet, 1028
,, River, 1147-1152
,, Rock, Anambas, 610
,, ,, Arru Islands,

843

,, ,, B a 1 a b a c

Strait, 525

11 1) China, 945,

967,969,978,
1007, 1013,
1069

,, ,, ChinaSea,634

,, ,, Caspar Strait,

251, 257, 259

,, ,, Malacca

Strait, 117,
136

,, ,, Tambelan Is-

lands, 307

,, Rocks, Borneo, 510-

956,

Rock

1 140,

China,
1024
Point,
1205
,, Round Islet, 556, 561
,, Stone Rocks, ioo5
,, Wizard Rock, 949
Whitshed Bay, 1220
Wida Islands and Bay, 868-

869, 872
Wild Man Mountain, 112

,, Pigeon Shoal, 268
Wilhelmina Rock, 892
Wilhelmus Bay, 838
Wilkinson Rock, 615
William Cape, 806
William I. Reef, 836
Wilson Bank, 237
,, Channel, 1029
,, Island, 1223, 1242
Winds, 1-25 (see Table of
Contents)
,, Amboina, 825
,, Baly Strait, 748
,, Banda Islands, 830-

831
,, Eastern Sea, 1130

INDEX.

1317

Winds, Hainan, 472
„ Shanghai, 1126
,, Sulu Sea, 916-917
,, Ternate, 876
,, Tsugar Strait, 1248
,, Yellow Sea, 1129-
1130

Winecoopers Point, 731

Winsor Rock, 178

Wizard Rocks, 949

Wodon Cape, 697

Woga Fort and Channel,
1058, 1061

Wokan Island, 844

Wokeu Islands and Light-
house, 1027

Wokka Peak, 779

Wolf Bay, 1081
,, Rock, 877-878

Wolverine Rock, 1058

Woman's Island, 830, 1134

Won-chu-chau Island, 967

Wong-mou Island, 955

Wongpu River, 11 17

Wonie Melat Island, 858

Woodford Shoals, 863

Woody Island, 131, 645
,, Peak, 489

Wo Sima, 1229

Wot Jaloe Point, 720

Wou-fou Island, 1056, 1058,
1068

Wowoni Island, 813

Wreck Head, 555

Wre Island, 728-730

Wright Island, 337
„ Shoal, 568

Wung Cum Island, 950

Wuntaun Island, 465

Wu-seu Island, 1018

Wusung Light, 11 18

,, River and Light
Vessel, 1116-
1127

Wyang Island, 870

Wycaup Island, 948

Wyllie Rocks, 936

Wyncoopsbay, 671

Wynkoops Point and Bay,

731-733
Wyoming Rock, loio

Xipangu, 1163
Xuan-dai Port, 452
Xulla Bessi Island, 821-822
,, Isles, 821-822
,, Mangola Island, 821-

822
,, Taliabo Island, 821-
822

Yabama Reef, 11S5
Yafiko Yama Peaks, 1246
Yait-chew Bay, 477
Yakimu Cape, ii58

Yakuno Sima Island, 1170
Yalung Kiang River, 1103
Yamada Harbour, 1198-

1199
Yama Gawa, 123 1
Yamata Ura Bay, 1210
Yamato Iso Rock, 1211
Y'Ami Island, 939
Ya Muria Moi nt, 137
Yang-king Pang, 1123
Yanglo Point, 1086
Yang River, 1153
Yang-tse Cape, 1108
Yangtse Estuary and Delta,
1 105
,, Kiang River, 1103-
1127
Ya Sima, 1218
Ya-tau Cape, 1133, 1135
Yat-moun Channel, 960,961
Yayo Sima, 1216
Yba, 601
Yebisu, 1247

Yeboshi Yama Island, 1186
Yebosi Island and Light,

1242
Ye-chau Island and Chan-
nel, 960, 961
Yedo and Light, 1165, 1167,
1188-1189

,, Bay, 1164, 1182-1192
Yellow Cliff, 117

,, River, 1131, 1147
,, Sea, 1128-1129

,, Stone Rock, 1006
Ye-moon Passage, 467
Yendo, 928
Yeng Rock, 1014
Yen Island, 870
Yenoi Sima, 1227, 1242
Yenokido Inlet, 1185
Yentai Harbour, 1142-1144
Yerabu Island, 1050
Yeritam Bay, 739
Yesan Cape, 1251, 1252
Yew Islands, 1098
Yeyvan Bay, 1070
Yezo, 1164

,, Island, 1253-1254
Yih Bluff, 993
Yih-pan Island, 1053
Yingtze, 1154
Ying-yu-mun Island, 1131-

1132
Yin-koa, 1156
Ykima Island, 1050, 1051
Ylin Island and Point, 590-

591
Ylongos, 902
Ymbalaba Island, 565
Ynabuyatan Island, 563-

564
Ynambuyod Island, 562
Yochau, 1 104

Yodo Gawa River, 1208
Yodsibi Rock, 1221, 1222
Yoe Island, 870
Yokaichi, 1176, 1177
Yokohama, 1165, 1187-1188
Yoko Island, 1213
Yokoiso Cape, 1248, 1251
Yoko Sima, 1215

,, ,, Island, ii6g
Yokoska Harbour, 1185
Yong Sabal Bank, 618
Yong-tsun, 1150
York Breakers, 659
Yosino Promontory, 121 1
Young Cape, 1162

,, Hebe Rock, 1078
Ysaroc Mountain, 932
Yu-chu Island, 1132
Yulinkan Bay, 471, 478
Yulu Kiang River, 1161
Yung-ching and Bay, 1138,

1139
Yung Island, 108 1
Yungmatau Island, 1141
Yungning Point and Island,

1024
Yung River, 1097-1100
Yunnan Province, 1104
Yu-nui-san, 1134
Yura, 1204
Yura No Uchi Harbour,

1205
Yuri, 1218
Yusun Shoal, 638
Yutsi Sima, 1246
Yzer River, 770

Zadelberg Hills, 712
Zalineff Island, 796
Zambales Province, 601
Zand Bay, 731, 733-735
Zan Island, 888
Zapatas Islands, 909
Zealandia Fort, 1039
Zebu, 895

„ Island and Port, 906-
908
Zee Bank, 697-699
Zee-Klip Rock, 175
Zeelandia Fort, 828
Zemandro Strait, 777, 778
Zeolite Bluff, 511
Zephir Rock, 272
Zephyr Rock, 1058
Zoe Island, 551
Zonby Island, 478
Zonne Gat, 830, 832
Zuidoost Hoek, 719
Zuid Wachter Island, 807
Zulla Isles, 821
Zutphen Islands, 176-17S
Zwaantjes Droogte and

Lighthouse, 713-714
Zwarte Rots, 290

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