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 WHITE NORTH 
 
 iHELEN .S.^WRIGHT
 
 
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 THE GIFT OF 
 
 MAY TREAT MORRISON 
 
 IX MEMORY OF 
 
 ALEXA.NDER F MORRISON
 
 THE (IRE AT AVIIITE NORTH
 
 THE MACMILLAX COMPAXV 
 
 M-;\"'.' YORK • Bf7STf)N • CHIC.M.O 
 ATLANTA • SAN FK-ANCISC' 
 
 AiACMILLAX & CO , Limited 
 
 LONDON ■ r;OMr.AV • CAI.f.T'-'A 
 JIELliOlKNt 
 
 IIIE MACMILLAX CO. OF CAXADA. Lti 
 
 T(7!!ONTl'
 
 (■',l>f/ri;/l,l /.// CL'nxlin.^f, Wash in, /I, 
 ( 'i iM\i \ ,\ i)i:i{ Hcini:i;i linwix I'i:ah\'. l.S.X. 
 \Vl!., rca<-hr,l Ih.. l',,l(. Aiwil (i, I'.KC.) 
 
 D.C.
 
 THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 THE STORY OF 
 
 POLAR EXPLORATIOT^ 
 
 FRO:\I THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE 
 DLSCOA^ERY OF THE ROLE 
 
 BY 
 HELEN S. WRIGHT 
 
 THE MAC^IILLAX CO:\rPAXY 
 1010 
 
 AH riyhtti renerved
 
 COPYKIGIIT, 1910, 
 
 By the MACMILLAX COMPANY. 
 
 Set up and electrotyped. Published October, igio. 
 
 Cusliini.' Cm. — i'„-i-\\ick >^ Smith Cn 
 .\(,r«n,,.l. Mh>s.. f.S.A.
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The material for this book has been gathered from the 
 rich storehouse of Arctic Literature. Tlie chief labour 
 of its composition lay in elimination rather than construc- 
 tion. The great field I have endeavoured to present can 
 hardly be brought Avith justice to the narrow bounds of 
 a single cover, but I have conscientiously endeavoured 
 to bring to the reader's mind an accurate record of bril- 
 liant deeds that go to make the history of the far Xorth. 
 and have let the explorers themselves tell the story of Jtow 
 these deeds have been accomplished. 
 
 Between the lines of their simple language describing 
 stern facts or desperate realities, one reads the character 
 and temperament of the adventurer ; one gathers lessojis 
 of patience, self-sacrifice, and endurance unsurpassed in 
 the history of mankind, and perhaps appreciates, for the 
 first time, the splendid fibre of which he is made. Stripped 
 of the conventions and luxuries of civilized life, he plunges 
 into the great unknown to fight a relentless war against 
 the greatest foes to his existence, — Cold. Starvation, and 
 Death. Though he may fall by the wayside a victim to 
 the Cause, or crawl home on liands and knees over the 
 rough fastnesses of the fro/.en wilderness, famishing, — ])er- 
 ha|)S dying. — the record of his work lives on: the fun- 
 damental princi])les of gi'eat character do not jierish. but 
 stand through tlie centuries, a star of hope to the \\'eary
 
 VI PREFACE 
 
 traveller on liis pilpfrimacre alr^icr tlie Avell-trodden patli- 
 wdv of e\"eryday life, and stirs the layman to a better 
 enditrance of the Ijtirdens and jiin'plexities of the common 
 lot. 
 
 Jt is with })leastire J inake grateful acknoAvledgment 
 to the gentlemen who have aeeordt-d me their gracious 
 permission to <juote from their A\-(jrks. to Commander 
 Rohert E. I'eai'v, t<j Ahijor-( irneral .V. W. (ireely. and 
 Sir .\llen Young, and tr> the following publishers and 
 (jthe-rs wlio. l)y fiii'in.--hing material or gi\'ing consent to 
 use selceted mattei'. or Ijy l;ind assistance in other ways, 
 liave made my Avork possilde: The .Vmerican Publishing 
 Company, Hartford, ('onn.. for selectifMis from '-Our 
 Lost l-lxplorer> "' : I). Ajiph.'tfm i,V Company for selections 
 from Charles Lannuin"s •• l-'artliest ^'ortli" and Payei'"s 
 ■• Xi'W Lands wdthin tlie Arctie Circle "": The Ccnttiry 
 Contp'au}' for seleetions from (ifiieral Ci'lh-1v"s article 
 o]i •• 'l"h(^ Norlliwest Passage": to (dint-dinst. ^^'as]ling- 
 ton. ]).('.. for pt'i'iidssion to rcju'oduce tlie copvriglit 
 poi'traits of Adnnrals Scddcy and .Mfl\"!ili,'. (icuoral Crcidy. 
 aici Commander Peary ; ('onstable vt Compaiiv. arid 1-1. I'. 
 J)u1ton & Company, Ltd.. London, fur permission to 
 I'eproduce ilie poi'ti^ait oi Amundsen in the lattei'"s wfji'k, 
 "Tlie Xorllj\\'e>t Passage'"": I)ouble<lay. Page \ Company 
 ior seleetions from ('oinmander l'ear\'"s •■ Nearest tlie 
 Pole," and for the [loHrait of Anthony bdala and rithei' 
 illustration> from tlie !atiei-"s \\-orl<. ••bduLiing the Polar 
 Icc" ; The l-hic\'ch)])a'dia Ib'itanidea Company for a selec- 
 tion from an ai'tiele 1)\' Markliam on "Polar Tu"_;'ion> "" : 
 
 to J. Si.-olt J\'eilie. L.^ij.. edili,]' of tlie n rniiril jiJii'-ill Jnil r- 
 
 iKil. for selfeti'ins fi-oni thai joiiiaial : lIoULi'liton : .Miftlin 
 ('onipau\' feir .-^rleel !on.-> tVom ••Tlie \'o\-a'i-e of thi' Jean-
 
 PREFACE Vll 
 
 nette " and Melville's "In tlu^ Lena Delta"; Dodd, Mead 
 cV' C'onipany for selectioiis from the Duke of Abruzzi's 
 "On the Pohir Star"'; Benjamin ]>. Hampton, Esq., for 
 permission to reproduce photographs of the Peary ex])e- 
 dition of 19U8 and Commander Peary's map, and iMr. 
 Hampton and the Hew York Times for permission to quote 
 Commander Peary's telegram announcing his discovery 
 of the Pole; the editor of tlie JUustrated London News 
 for permission to reproduce the portraits of Sir Edward 
 l^elcher-. Captain Xares, and Commander Mai'khara ; 
 Jjittle, Prown & Com[)any for selections from (Tcneral 
 Circely's '• nand])ook of l*olar Discoveries"; The London 
 Agency for ()rdnance Maps for selections from Sir Allen 
 Young's " I'andora Voyages '' ; Longmans, Creen & Com- 
 })any for seh'ctions from Nansen's " First Crcjssing of 
 (ireenland" and Sverdru})'s "New Land"; the editor of 
 MaClure's 3I((;/azine foi' a selection from Mr. Baldwin's 
 ai'ticle on "The Paldwin-Ziegler .\rctic Expedition," 
 ^\•hich a])])eai'c;d in that magazine in P,H)P-dl)U2; Albert 
 Op(n'ti. Es(p. fc)r permission to reproduce the portraits 
 of W. II. (iihler, Lieutcmant Schwatka, Colonel lirainard, 
 Captain I)c Long, and Lieutenant Lockwood ; C. Kegan 
 Paul & Company for a selection from Markham's "(ireat 
 l-'rozen Sea"; (i. P. I'utnam's Sons for a selection from 
 ?tli-. Alger's articles on " lioald Amundsen,"' which ap- 
 })eared in l^iifnuin's 'Montlilu ; tht; editor of the Anierh'ati 
 llci'U-ir of lii'rifirs for a selection from ]\Ir. McCiratli's 
 ai'licle on •■ Polar Ivxploration/' an'IucIl a[)peared in that 
 niagazine : Sampson. Low. Marston c\: Company. London, 
 for a selection from '•(ierman Arctic Exjjcditions " ; 
 Charles Seribner's Sons for a selection from St'lnvatka's 
 "Search." Greel\"'s "'.Fhree Years' Arctic Ser\ice." and
 
 PREFACE 
 
 Scliley's " Ivcscuo of CTrcely"; V. A. Stokes Company for 
 ])ermis«io]i to reproduce illustratioiis from Cominuuder 
 Peary's work, " 'J'he iS'orth Pole," and for tlie loan of 
 photographs ; and to tlie same com})any for selections 
 froin Andree's " I^alloon Expedition " and Peary"s "North- 
 ward ovei' the Great Ice."
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Early adventurers. Py theas. — Dicuil. — Other. — Wulfstan. — The 
 Norsemen. — Iva Bardsen. — The Cabots. — The Cortereals. — 
 "Willoughby and Chancellor. — Stephen Burrough. — Xiccolo 
 Zeno. — Frohisher. — Pet and Jacknian. — Sir Humphrey Gil- 
 bert. — Davis. — Bareutz ........ 1 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Hudson. — BatTm. — Desh- 
 neff. — Behring. — Schalaroff. — Tcliitschagof. — Anjou and \'on 
 Wrangell. — Phipps 18 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 Early nineteenth century. Ross and Parry. May .']. 1818. Object 
 of voyage, search for Northwest Passage through Davis Strait 
 and explore bays and channels described by Baffin. — Met natives 
 near Melville Hay. — 'The discovery by Ross of the famous Crim- 
 son Cliffs. — Enters Lancaster Sounil. — Advance barred by im- 
 aginary Crocker M(iumains. ■ — Rerurn of expeditioTi to Enirland. 
 — Buchan and Franklin N(~irtli Polar expedition via Greenland 
 and Sjiitzbergen. — Barnthca and 'I'rpiit in Magdalena Bay. June 
 3, I.^IH. — Reacheil hiuh latitude of Sii ;i7' N. —Course directed 
 to east coast of Greenland. — Disastrous battle with the ice. — 
 Z>o?'();/(^a disabled. — Hasty return to England . ... 29 
 
 ClIAPTEB IV 
 
 1810-1827. Parry's first voyage. — Object, to survey Lancaster 
 Sound and prove the uon existence of Crocker Mountains.— 
 Discovery of ucw lands — Parry Islnnds. — Attains lonuiiude 
 110 W.. thereby winning the bounty of live thousand ]>ounils
 
 cox TEXTS 
 
 offered 1 IV Parliaraont. — Winters near .Melville Island. Second 
 voyaue. — Sliiii> Jf"'f'> and /•''//•_'/. — Kxainints Dukr of York i5ay 
 and Frozi-n Strait of Middlctim. — Winters off Lyon Inlet. — 
 Sled-e j(iui'ne\s. — Ohjeet.to make Nurthwe.-t I'assaux- ri'i I'rinee 
 liegent Inlet. — ]i(-aehed I'ort Bowen. — Ten nmnths" inipris- 
 onruent. — DestriK'tion of the Fur[/. — Hasty return to Kn-land. 
 l-'iiurth vi.yaiie. — Pui'pose h> reaeh the i'l.le ci'/ Siiitzberucn 
 with sledge Ijoats over ice. — JTr/a as transport. — J-'arry's 
 farthest S2 4-V X. reached. June 2'-], 1^-21 ..... 
 
 41 
 
 fJIAl'TEli V 
 
 Nineteenth century cnydiiiinil, Scoreshy and C'lavering, — Former 
 visiti'd Jan Mayens I>land in 1>17. — Later he visited east coast 
 of Ci'cenland. — I)iscii\ere-d Score-by Sound. In 1824. Ca])- 
 tain Lyon surveyc-il .Melville Peninsula.- — Adjnining straits 
 and shnres of Areiic America. — In Is:.'-'). Caj'tain Ik-echey in 
 the Bl'issoiii sailed through Hehring Strait and passed beyond 
 ley Cape. — Survi-yed the coast as far ;is Point Earrnw. addiiig 
 I2d miles I if ni-Vv' sIimi-c. — S(-<;iind voyage of ('ujjtain Jnhu Puss. 
 
 — I'ndertaken in ls:.",i. — Diseuvers iionthia. — Wiiitered in 
 Felix II arlmr. — Disenvi.-ry uf Nortli Ma::iietic Pole by iiejihew 
 I'f Cajitain .Jnhn lvi>s. — ('Mniniaiider .Jan;'-s Clark lin^s. — 
 \'ali;able o])scrvations. — Sledire journeys to mainland. — Four 
 >'ears s])ent in the Aretic. ■ — I'erilcjus rf'ireai. — Saf(.- return. 
 Land journey liy Captain liack. — The Great Fish-P>ack liiver.— 
 
 — Point ()i;le. —Point liichardson. • — Pack's farthest jmini was 
 'iS' \-]' ."iT" north latitude. '.») 5^' 1" west longitude. Land jour- 
 neys of Simiison and Dease. ]S;;i;. — Descend the Maekt-nzie 
 i;iverto the sea.- — Surveyed wf-si shore between lieturn ]\eef 
 and Cape Parrow. — In Ibo'.', they explored shores of \'ictoria 
 Land as far a< Caj.e Parry. — Cm.-si-d Coronation Gulf. — I)e- 
 ,-cended the Cd])], ermine. — l-;e:ii-hed the j'l.lar Sea. 0\-erland 
 y iurney in F^"4''> by Dr. .bilm Pac confirmed Captain John lioss's 
 siaieiiient t liat Pooihia wa-^ a peiiiu.-ula ..... 
 
 cH. \PTi:i; vr 
 
 bihii Fi-ai!l<lin. — I-iarly life. — Fir-i land expedition of i>l'.'-l--L'l. 
 
 biUrni-y fi-om Vurk ba-'Oa''. to Cumb'-riaiid ihiiH.-. — lo-.ach 
 
 lojr; I'ri 'Vidrnce. — Winter at Fort Fnierp!'ise. — Fxploj-alions.
 
 CONTENTS XI 
 
 PAOE 
 
 — 5550 miles. — Hardship. — Starvation. — Return. Second 
 land journey. — 18"i5. — Winter quarters at Great Bear Lake. 
 
 — Descent of tlie Mackenzie Kiver to tlie Polar Sea. — 1200 
 miles of coast added to map. The last journey of Sir John 
 Franklin, 1845. — -The Erebus and Terror. — Last seen in Mel- 
 ville Bay 79 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Search for Sir John Franklin. Captain Kellett. — Captain Moore. 
 
 — Dr. Richardson. — Dr. Rae. — Sir J. C. Ross. — Mr. Parker. 
 
 — Dr. Goodsir. — Collinson, M'Clure. — The Felix. —■ Prince 
 Albert. — Commanded by Charles C. Forsyth. — Captain Aus- 
 tin's s(iuadron. — Captain Ommaney. — Lieutenant Sherard 
 Osborn. — Commander Cator. — Grinnell expedition under De 
 Haven 95 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Search for Sir John Franklin continued. Sledge journey of Captain 
 Austin's squadron. — -Return of Frince Albert under command 
 of Captain Kennedy. — Bellot. ....... 120 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Search for Sir John Franklin continued. Sir Edward Belcher's 
 S'quadron. — Inijlofield. — Rae"s journey. — Discovery of North- 
 west Passage by Captaui IM'Clure. — Death of Bellot. . . 141 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Sledging parties of Sir Edward Belcher's squadron. — -Desertion 
 of the ships. — Return to England. Story of the Resolute. — 
 Traces of Sir John Franklin discovered by Dr. Pae. — Ander- 
 son's journey. — The voyage of the Fox. under Connnander 
 ^Nl'CliiUock. — • Sledge journeys. — Record and n^lics of Frank- 
 lin's expedition. — Fox returns to England .... 17-4 
 
 CH.VPTER XI 
 
 The second Grinnell expedition. Connnanded by Dr. Elislia K. 
 Kane. — Winter quarters in Rensselaer Harbor. — Sledging
 
 xii coyTEyrs 
 
 I'AfJE 
 
 trips. — To the rescue, — Effects of exhaustion and cold. — Dr. 
 Kane's journey. — (jreat Glacier of Iluiuboldt. — lieiurn and 
 illness of Dr. Kane. Second winter in tlie ice. — Privations 
 and suffering;. — Abandonment f)f ilie Ailranrp. — lietreat and 
 rescue . . . . . . . . . . . .109 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 Dr. Hayes's expedition. Winter (quarters at Port Eoulke, Greenland 
 coar^t. — Death of Soinita^. — Dr. Hayes's journey. — Attempt 
 to cross -Smith Souiul. — Hayes's fartliest. — •• Open ]V)]ar Sea.'' 
 
 — Homeward bound 2:)5 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Charles Francis Hall. — Early life. — Interest in fate of Sir John 
 Franklin. — First journey to Greenland. — Discovery of Fro- 
 bislier relics. — Experiences and study of the Eskimos. Sec- 
 ond journey. — Delays and disappointments. — Sleddn,' trips. 
 
 — Kinii William Eand at lust. — Franklin relics. — Bcturn ul 
 Hall to United States. Polfiris exj)edition. — Readies hiLdi 
 Jll)rthin.l,^ — Hall's sledge journey. — Jfeturn and deatli. — l'i>- 
 hrris winters. — X(j escape. — Polaris is wrecked. — Part of 
 crew adrift on tlie ice-lloe. — -Remainder build wintei' hut. — 
 i'inal rescue and return to United States ..... 243 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Captain Tliomas Loner. — Discovery of Wranirell Land. — Captain 
 ' 'arisen and Cajitain Palliser sail aci-oss tiic Sra. of Fara. — ( 'ap- 
 tain .fdhaniU'sr'n circumnaviii-ates X()\-a Zeinl'la. I'ii'sf German 
 I'xpcditinn, — Second (ierman exj^fditinn. — (rprni'i inn. ( 'a]itain 
 K'.lipwey cnnHnandincr. — Iliius'i. Captain He^-emann. — Drjiai- 
 turi- from P)i-f-men. — Crossini: tlie .\r."tic Circle. — Island nf .Ian 
 Maycn. — Tlie ice line. — Separatinn from the Jl'insu. — .\drift 
 on the ire-floe. — \\'inter. — Final reseue. — ■ (lir'nuriiin beset. 
 
 — ^\'inter. — Sle<p_nii2; ]-iarfies. — LieiUenant I'ayer's remark- 
 able journey — 77 1' north latitude. — IJeturn of the (ii-rmirn'i" 208 
 
 CH.M'TEH XV 
 
 Xorwf>frlan '''Xjiedition. 1^71, I'ayei- and Weyjireflit. — The Tp'i'it- 
 Afi.rr ad rift in tlie I'olar ]iaek. — Dise^very of Fi'anz .Jos(-f Land. —
 
 CONTENTS xiii 
 
 pa(;e 
 
 i'ayer's sledge journeys. — Payer's farthest 82 ' 5' north latitude. 
 
 — Cajie Fligely. — Abauilonmeut of the "Tcijetthoff. — Ketreat of 
 ollicers and crew. — I'icked up by Russian lishernien. — Home 280 
 
 niArTER XVI 
 
 Baron A. E. von Nordeuskjold. — First voyage, 1858. — ■ Aceoni- 
 pauies suceeeding Swedish expeditions. — Spitzbergen. — Voy- 
 age of Sojia. — 18(;8. — -Nordenskj old's journey to Greenland. — 
 Voyage of tin' Pdlhcin. — Attempt to reach the Pole by reindeer 
 sledge. — Unexpectetl discouragements and disasters. — Voyage 
 of the Proven. — liSTo. — The Kara Sea. — Journey repeated 
 the following year. — In the Ymcr. — Voyage of the I >[/(« . . 298 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 British expedition of 1875. The Alert and Discovery. — Captain 
 George S. Xares, V. M. S., Albert H. Markham. F. R. G. S. — 
 Two voyages of the Pditdura, 1875-187(5. Schwatka's searcli 
 for the Franklin records. 1878-1879 810 
 
 CHAPTEli XVIII 
 
 The Jeannette expedition, 1879-1881. In coniiuand of Captain Geiu-ge 
 \V. DeLong. — Leaves San Francisco. — Touches at Ounalaska, 
 August 2. — Reaches Eawrence I'ay. East Siberia. August 15. — 
 Last s.'fu by whale bark .'<en Breer^e ne;!r Herald Island, Septem- 
 ber 2. — '1 lie .refiriiu'ttr beset in ice-pack September 5, never 
 auain released. — Daily nnuine of officers and crew. — Shi}) 
 springs a leak. — .\ frozen suinnu'r. — Sight of new land. — A 
 second wintei- in the ])ack. — The .Teannvtte crushed. — Aban- 
 donment. — The retr(>at. — The fate of the three boats.- — Death 
 of De Long's ])arty. — :\Ielville's search olo 
 
 CHAPTEli XIX 
 
 International circunipolar .stations. — Failure of Dutch expedition. 
 
 — Greely expedition reaches Lady Franklin P.ay. — Life at Fort 
 (\iim-er. —Sledge journey of Brainard and I.oekwood. — Farthest 
 north. — Greely's journey to interior of (Jrinnell Land. — Lake 
 Hazen. — Failure of relief ship Xeptunv to reach Conger in 1S82.
 
 xiv CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 — Official plans for Greely's relief in 1883. — Proteus crushed 
 iu ice. - — Garliugtoirs retreat. — Greely's abandounient of Fort 
 ("oiiirer. — Greely readies Gape, Sabine. — Tiie beuinninij of a 
 hard winter. — Deatli of members of tlie party from starvation 
 and cold. — Scldey's brilliant rescue of the remnant of the Lady 
 franklin Hay (ixpedition in 1884 ...... 809 
 
 C II AFTER XX 
 
 Xansen. — 'I'lie man. — First Arctic experience. — Plans the crossing 
 of Greenland. — Carries out his ,<ireat undertaking. — Voyage on 
 the Frdiii. — Drifting with the current. — Life aboard. — Nan- 
 sen and Johannesen start for the Pole. — Difficulties of travel. 
 — -'riie " Farthest Xnrtli !" — 'Plie retreat. — A winter on the 
 Fi'anz Josef Land. — Attempt to reach Spitzbergen by kayak. 
 
 — The meeting at (^ape Fl(jra with Frederick Jackson. — Home 
 
 in tiie Windward ......... 401 
 
 ClIAFTKR XXI 
 
 Journeys of Dr. A. P>unge and Baron E. von Toll. Exploration iu 
 Siiitzberuvn. — Sir Martin Conway. — Dr. .\. (i. N'athorst.— 
 I'i'ofe>soi' J. U.Cjore. — Andree's balloon t;xpeditiun tothe North 
 Pole. — St-areli for Andree by The(j<lor Lei'uer. — J. Stadling. 
 
 — Dr. A. (i. Xatliorst. — Captain Bade. — Walte'r Wellman's 
 ])lan to rea(;h the Pole from Spitzbergen. — Italian ex]jfditiou 
 under Duke of Abi'uzzi. — l>oss of the Stidla I'nlorf. — ( 'aptain 
 I'mberto Cagni's journey. — ISreaks the; I'eeord. — lietreat. — 
 Home. — lialdwin-Zieglcr exijedition of ll)()(). — ( 'omplete equip- 
 meiil . — Return of expedition in autumn. — Zieghu' exjxHlition 
 under Anthony l'"iala. — 'i'he Anifricn readies high nortliing. — 
 ^Vinl(■rs in 'iriplilz l>ay. — Is <h'stroyed. — ■ Failure; of sledgt; 
 jiiuriii vs. — lu'licf sliip doe.s not eniiie. ■ — Second winter. — Be- 
 tiu'ii of pai1y liy T<rrn Xnvi in I'.Mi:; ...... 417 
 
 cii.M'TFi; x.xir 
 
 Otti) Svei'dcu]). — I'.air years" \nyage of the Fram. — J(jurneys in 
 L I lesm; •!■(■. Land. — Important e.Nploi'atinn ol'.Iones Sound. — -l)is- 
 eiivri-\ of new lands. -- 1 1'eleM.se of tlie Fntiii. Captain itoald 
 .Vmundseii. — 4'lie voyage of the (,'jnii. — Beaches liead of I'eter-
 
 CONTENTS XV 
 
 PAGJ5 
 
 sen Bay (King William Land). — Two years' stay — Valuable 
 scientilic observations. — Visits from Eskimos. — Sledge jour- 
 neys. — Release from the ice. — August 14, lOOO. — Completion 
 of the Northwest Passage. — Another Arctic winter.' — Sledge 
 journey of Anumdsen to Kagle City. — Release of Wui Gjoa. — 
 Reaches San Francisco, 1907 ....... 4.35 
 
 CHARTER XXIII 
 
 Robert E. Peary. — The man. — First visit to the Arctic, 188(5. — 
 Other journeys, 1891. — Independence Bay, Gi'eenlar.d. — Dis- 
 covers Melville Land and Ileilprin Land. ■ — Subsequent jour- 
 neys, 1893-1895. — Discovery of famous " Iron Mountain.'' — ■ 
 Summer voyages, 1896-1897. — North Pole journey of 1898. — 
 Peary seriously disabled by frost-bites. — • Polar expedition in 
 S.S. Boosevelt, 190.')-1900. — Final dash for the Pole, 1908 . 455 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 Dr. Frederick A. Cook. — Claims discovery of the Polo. — His return 
 from the Arctic. — Recei)tion by tin! Danes. —Announcement 
 of conquest of tlie Pole by Peary. — Denounces Dr. Cook. — 
 Acceptance of Peary's claims by the .\merican Geographical 
 Society.- — Dr. Cook sends manuscript to Copenhagen. — Ver- 
 dict. — Prior claim to the discovery of the North Pole. — Not 
 proven ........... 470 
 
 I>Xl>LA.VAT!ON' OF TkRMS ......... 477 
 
 Index ............ 481
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Commander Hobert Edwin Peary ..... 
 lloiulius his ^lap of the Arctike Pole, or ^'ortherne World 
 
 Fronti 
 
 spiece 
 
 Sebastian Cabot .... 
 
 Sir nu,i;li Willoughby 
 
 Martin I'rubi.slier .... 
 
 Sir Humphrey (Jilbert 
 
 Uavis's Ships Srtntihine and Muom^hine 
 
 The Death of Henry Hudson 
 
 Peter Feodorovitsch Anjou 
 
 Ferdinand von Wrangell . 
 
 Captain John Ro.ss, H.N. . 
 
 Entering Lancaster Sound 
 
 Jolni Franklin . 
 
 Upernavik .... 
 
 Henry (irinnell . 
 
 The (iraves on 15eechiey Island 
 
 E. K. ]\ane 
 
 The Kescue in .Melville Bay 
 
 Lauding near (iriuuell Cape 
 
 Nipped ill the Ice 
 
 A dale in the .\retic Sea . 
 
 Tlie Outlook from Cape (Jeorge Kussell 
 
 IIuml)oldt (dacier .... 
 
 L I. Hayes 
 
 Five Members of the Grinuell Expedition 
 
 TennysoiTs ^louunuMit 
 
 Frobisher's Map nf >b.'ta Incognita . 
 
 Funeral oi Caiitain Hall 
 
 Jan Mayeii Island .... 
 
 A. E. Nordenskjr.ld .... 
 
 Foul l!ay ...... 
 
 The Vrijd in Konyam Bay 
 
 xvii 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 U 
 
 17 
 
 21 
 
 L'8 
 
 28 
 
 82 
 
 52 
 
 80 
 
 99 
 
 110 
 
 lb! 
 
 120 
 
 128 
 
 170 
 
 ISO 
 
 209 
 
 215 
 
 218 
 
 224 
 
 2:il 
 
 2:]1 
 
 2 \:', 
 
 254 
 
 2S8 
 
 ;)05 
 ;;o9
 
 XVIU 
 
 LIST OF ILU'STRATIOXH 
 
 FACING P.. 
 
 The Crew of the Y<'ga 
 
 Disco Islainl ..... 
 
 J.icuteiuuit Frederick Schwatka, L'.S.A. 
 
 AV. H. (iilder 
 
 Caiitaiii G. W. De Lnnir. U.S.X. 
 
 Kear Admiral ( ieorge W. Melville, U.S.N 
 
 Ciijoiicl David Lcuue Braiiiard, U.S.A. 
 
 LieuttnanL James H. Lockwood, U.S.A. 
 
 C;eiieral A. W. Greely, U.S.A. . 
 
 Rear Adiidral Schley, U.S.X. . 
 
 The Retreat of 1004 — Sledge Column leav 
 
 J5reakiim Camp at Cape Richtliope 
 
 Anthony l^'iala .... 
 
 ]i(jald Amundsen 
 
 Cape Flora in Early July. 11)04 . 
 
 The Ciial .Mine at Cape Flora 
 
 The ll<,(iK(-roU dryiuLT her Sails . 
 
 Cairn f-rected over the Body of Marv 
 
 Camio Mf.irris Jesnp . 
 
 The I'eary Sledge 
 
 Christmas Dinner on the Unofi'-iult 
 
 Tlie Flag that Peary carried to the Pole 
 
 :\Iap of Arctic Explorations, 18uO-lU09 
 
 ing C 
 
 iipe 
 
 Mull in 
 
 bock 
 
 ;ll(j 
 320 
 337 
 344 
 
 3.32 
 309 
 
 o-o 
 
 380 
 384 
 400 
 433 
 433 
 437 
 444 
 448 
 448 
 450 
 400 
 402 
 404 
 404 
 408 
 474
 
 TILE GREAT WTTTTE ^"ORTII 
 
 CPIAPTEK 7 
 
 ]']arly adventurers: Pytheas. — Dicuil. — Other. — Wulfstan. — 
 The Xors(Mneii. — Tva Bardrfen. — The Cabots. — The C'ort(Mvals. 
 — Willoughby ami Clumeellor. — Stephen Iku'rough. — Xiccolo 
 Zeno. — Frobisher. — P(>t and Jackman. — Su- Humphrey Gil- 
 bert. — Davis. — Barentz. 
 
 A ({RAVE old Avorld, majestically swinging upon its axis, 
 the mystery of its northern extremity locked closely within 
 its breast, is suddenly electrified hy the news that at last 
 man, for cc^nturies l)afll(Hl in his lun'oic efforts, has rcn-ealtnl 
 its hidden s(H'ret, and that Old Glory, symbol of the daring 
 of the moderns, floats from the Pole itscdf. 
 
 AMiat a thrill of inten^st ])asses over the nations of the 
 eartli ; universal excitement; universal rejoicings. Cable- 
 gram, Marconigram, carry th(> wonderful tidings vmder ihe 
 seas or around tlu^ A\'orld in s]')ac(\ 
 
 Tlw Pole at hist! For ag(>s tlu^ northern lights hav(> 
 b(>cko!u>d the adventurous s])irits to fathom the plKMiomeua 
 of the gi'(^a1 unknown. ha\'e lured num into harbours fanlaslic 
 AN'ith 1h(^ fi'ozen ice of c(Mituries, have insijired him to cross 
 the (Ireenland ice ca]) —or maki^ his lonel\' trail through the 
 "bari'ens" of Xorth Amei-ica or the desolate "tundi'a" of 
 Siberia, his dauntless courage un(]U(Miched by ])revious I'ccords 
 of i)rl\'alion, star\'ati()n. and death its(>lf. One aft(>r anoiher 
 of intre])i(l (>xpl()]'(M's ha\-e left their stories of thrilling ad- 
 \'(Mitui'e. and I'ecoi'd of their nann^s or those of their benx'- 
 factors to mai'k their ])ersonal discoveries. 
 
 H 1
 
 Tin: CUE AT Win IE y OUT 1 1 
 
 A\'h;it ;i hi-tory, what suffering', wliat sacrifice, comix'nsatcd 
 !)>■ ,iir<-:>.i aclii('\"cniciiT, by heroism, hy <ilury — by tlic aihU- 
 linii- io llic woi'iil's ri'conl of scicntihc kno\\ic-lii,c! 
 
 W'Ihj were the cjtrly mariiicrs that aspired to peueti'ate tlie 
 U!i]viio\v!! seas of ive ? . |'a;r back in the centuries. Pytheas, 
 bold ad',-i']fnire,r.vbr.ou'irlit, 'back rumoui's oi an island in the 
 Arcti'' (.'ircle c;J..le/t TIkiIcj, aT: .fir>t welconietl by the ancierils 
 a- ;;bv'onVic!'.nd''d'i-(-oV'(^ry-! 'bill 'afterwards discredited. In the 
 ninth century --onie Irish UKjnks, carried away Ijy r<'liuious 
 euthusia-ni and an. adventui'ous spirit, seem to havevisiied 
 Iceland, and one. Dicuil by name, left wiitten evidence, about 
 Si'), confii'minu' tiie <tory (jf the island Thule. whieh -ome of 
 the bi-eihi'f'ii \'i-ite(l. and re])(jrted ihei'c \va.- no dai'kru'-.- at 
 tlif summer sol-tice. Other and \\'ulf<tan, athirst U)V di<- 
 co\'ery ;ui'l knowleilo-f, set sail in the i'ei;i,'ii of Kinu' Alfred. 
 aU'l in all ])i'obabilily the fcjrmer rounded the Xoilh ( 'a])e 
 M-j\ \'i>ile<l ihe >hores oi' La])land, ihinigii his exact discovei'ies 
 c;im!o1 now be i(lentificd. 
 
 The h;irdy Xoiv-emen. reuliziim; the advantau'e (jf hunling 
 aud l);i.ner auionu' the nati\'(-s of ( rrecnhind. made permanent 
 >eiii"me)|i> ut Hrattelid and f^uiar-fjord. A- far as ~'.)'^ 
 iKC'iii laliiude a c.airn was found, and U])on a runie stone ^^'as 
 a. 'hi"'' ]'!'■','). aud iIktc i- (-xudenee that othei' >('Trler- reache(l 
 ;•- i';ii' ;:- l;ililud<' ~') bi' X. and ]);U'row ."^trait in \'l'iV\ or 
 ihiTeiiiioui-. Toward the ufidiHc of ihe fourtecnlh cenlury 
 Xi)!-.v:;y \v;i-; '•lU'^fd with t h(> Ilhick Death, and the coloiH.-V< 
 ii! i'.'ir-ofi' ' '■(■(■'•nlaiid wcr'' torii'onen. I-"or-akeu 1 ly then' own 
 ewun' i'Xi'K-ii. t]]cy rccci\-(Ml liiilc a--i-tauce trom the nati\"(' 
 hb::ii!ii >-. mr we read they wci-e o\'cri'ini and altaek<'d by 
 'i:"!!! ;ih()Ut ]:; 1!». A rare old dociuni'iii. ih^ oldest woi'k on 
 Ar^-br l:i ^ ;:;■;!' Ay. i-on-i-l inii of -aiiiuLi' (lireciidu- for i'e;aTuu£ 
 thi' ciiloiiy fi'oMi Iri fill 1. wa- wi'iui'U b>' one Iwa Ibard-i-n. 
 i':^' -1'WaiA of ih" ni-hoi)ric of dardar. i!! th'' Ib'i-t iJyuA. 
 lla.vMM!! wa- a uaiiv'c of ' d-coniand and went fortii f(jr the
 
 M.liA^riAX ( AlU/l
 
 THE CABOTS 6 
 
 pur]50so of hol])in,G; the i^ister colony. All of this early his- 
 tory' is \-;(,<i\ie and unsalisfyin^-, l)iit it shows the adventurous 
 s])irit of those early mariners, ^\ltllin the next hundr(>d 
 years, that is to say between I0I8 and 1448, at rare intervals 
 there was soiU(^ coniinunication with the Greenland settle- 
 ments, but fiiuilly it ceased altofi;etlier. Later the desire 1(j 
 find a short route to India inspired merchantman and niiunnor 
 to cross tlu^Ai'ctic Circle, and in the sixteenth and seventeenth 
 centuri( s expeditions of note, led by men of dauntless spirit, 
 find their record u])on th(^ ])ages of history. 
 
 Born in Bristol, En,i2;land, about 147(), Sebastian ('al)ot. 
 ambitious son of an adveiiTvu'ous fatluM', John ("abot, became 
 zealous at an early age, throu<i:h the successes of ('olumtjus, 
 to attem))t a like achievement. Father and son ]iropo-ed 
 to ITenr}" \'II to sail west, and reach India by a shorter route. 
 The kin<i-, ]>leased with the idea of enterinii a new field of 
 marilime discovery, couiided t(j the Cabots the execution of 
 this ])!an. A ])atent was ^-ranted March 5, 119(3. "It cm- 
 ])(_)wered tla^m to seek out, subdue, and occu[>y, at their own 
 chariL'es, any rei^ions which before had Ixm'Ii unknown to all 
 ( 'hi'istians." Tliey were em])()W(M'ed to take ])ossession (jf 
 sucli lands and set up the royal banner. They were au- 
 thorizv^i to return to th(^ ])ort (jf I^ristol antl no other, and 
 a fifth of the <i,ains of the voya.ii'e were to Ije turned o\'er to 
 the crown. 4"he followin.a year, 1497, John and Sebastian 
 saile(l from Pu'lslol in th(> <iT)od sliip Mdlhc^r. 
 
 By the r(\'ords of an old maj) of this ])('ri()d llie land fir>t 
 seeu by th(> ( "ab(.)ts was The coast of Xova Scritia. or I-land 
 of ( 'a])e I^reton. Idie ('abols desi,una1e(l the maiiiiand ;is 
 '■ Prima J'ei'ra \'esta." and is oMihncd bciwetT! b')" wwd oO', 
 ^howiuii land calhMl St. Juan, no doubt j'rince Ivi^vai'd I-Iand 
 and moutli of lli(> St. La\vi'(Mice. In the Pri\'y Pu!'-c e\j)en<''> 
 ot ILmu'v \'1I ihei'c i^ tlic followiuii: intcri'-tino- oxpi'iidiiurc 
 " lOth of Auu'u^t. 1 l'.»7. J'o liim that found the new l.-h,
 
 4 rilE a BEAT WHITE yOTlTII 
 
 £10." Xo doubt, this modest sum was paid for Xewfound- 
 land. 
 
 With the entliusiasm of the first voyagers stimulating tliem 
 to fr(>sli (effort, the Cabots seeured a s(>cond "patent'' to John 
 ('abot, dated Fel)ruary 3, 1498, giving him the command of 
 six v(\<sels, of not more than two hundred tons each, and to 
 C[U(jte the exact words of this document, "them convey and 
 led(> to the lande and isles of late found liy the said John in 
 oure name and by oure conunandment." 
 
 But bef(jre the small fleet was in readiness, the father died, 
 and to his son fell the enterprise. With five vessels, Sebas- 
 tian set sail from Bristol in ^lay, 1498, and reaching the 
 American coast ascended as high as 67° noi'th latitude, prob- 
 ably ]^as<ing into Hudson Bay. He detra-mined to pi'cs^ on 
 in a desire to find an 0])en channel to India. His men became- 
 ai)])alle(l at tlie dangers that beset navigation in those higher 
 latitudes and mutinied, comjX'lling him to retrace his cour-o. 
 
 There is a vague rumour that he had witli liim upon this 
 V(jyage over a hundred emigrants, whom he landcfl in tlu'-e 
 liiuh latitude's, and who all ])erish(>d from cold, although the 
 -ea-(jn was midsununer. Howc^ver, he l)rouglit back to I-Jig- 
 huid three nati\'es of th(> countries he had A'isitefl, and for 
 hi< <ucc(-ssful disco\-(>ries of more than oiiihteen huiidi'ed miles 
 of our Xorth Aiuf'ricau coast, the king rewarded him by con- 
 ferrintr ui)on him rlie office of (Irand l^ilot of 1-Jigland. 
 
 Idie interest and ex(M'tions of Sebastian Cabot did not 
 abate, for tliis hero, extolled by contemijorai'y writers for his 
 charaetei' and cf)urage. by his unflagging ])ei'sf'\'eranee and 
 indomitable will promotr'fl the succes-ful ex]X'(lit ioii> of 1 ").1M. 
 tor whieh lie was a.i)])ointed go\-(a'nor for life of the Mu-covy 
 ("omi)any. Idii.- company wa> estaiili-hed by tlie merejiaiits 
 ol' bniidoii for tlie ])urpo-e of exteiidimi' eonimei'ce and trade 
 ill linlia a.nd C;ii liay, aid to find a tiorthea>t roiiie that 
 would expedite tlieir enl(a'pi'i-e.
 
 wiLLovaiinv AND ciiAycKLLon 5 
 
 Tlii'cc shi])s wvvo fillcMl out, and Cabot dnnv up instnic- 
 tions which arc curious reading at this day. Tlic ex])C(htion 
 was uudci- Sir IIu<i,h \\'illouji;hl)y and Richard Chancellor, and 
 sailed May 20, 1553, ''for the search and discovery of north- 
 ei'u parts of the world, to open a ^vay and ])assagc to our 
 men, for ti'avel to new and unknown kingdoms." Cabot 
 instructs these men. to treat all natives "with g(>ntleness and 
 courtesy, without any disdain, laughing, or contem])t." If 
 ihey should b(^ invited to dine with any lord or rukn', they 
 should go armed and in a i)ostur(^ of defence. He tells them 
 to beware; of "j^ersons armcHl with l)0ws, who swim nakenl 
 in various s(nis and harl)oui's, desirous of the bodies of men 
 which they covet for meat." 
 
 Of Sir Hugh Willoughby, first in conunand of the Bona 
 Spcraiizd, it is recorded that he was tall and handsome and 
 had i^roved a valiant soldier: of Richard Chancellor, that 
 he was behoved and genial and es]X'cially noted for "many 
 good ])arts of wit." 
 
 Thus on Hiat briglit morning in early ^lay, these two com- 
 manders with th(>ir loyal crcnv sailed down the Thames amid 
 tlie firing of guns and che(M's of the ci'owds ass(Mnl)led u])on 
 the river baiiivs to wish them (;c)d-s])eed. It was understood 
 betw(MMi the connrianders that should th(>ir vessels become 
 se]iai'a1e(l, they sliould tiy to meet at Wardhuys, "a goo<l 
 port in I'inmark." 
 
 The>' ]):'()ce(>(l(Ml noi'thward and ])asse(l th(^ northermnost 
 capi^ of Ivurope in July. At night during a dense fog and 
 stoi'm, th(> two shii)s se])arated, the tlui'd and smallest ke])t 
 wiiii Willoughby, and the twi) brave commanders and theii' 
 ciTWs iiex'e!' met again. Proceeding noithward sonu^ two 
 hundre(l miles, reaching Xcn'a Zembla, Willoughby was 
 forcinl by ilie ice to ret urn to a lower latitude. In Se])1emb(>r, 
 155.'), he harboured in the mouth of the river Arziiui, in La])- 
 land.
 
 G TIIK GUKAT WIHTE XORTJf 
 
 lie wrote in his journal at this time: "Thus remaining 
 in this haven tlie s])a('e of a weeke. seing the year farre s])ent, 
 and aUo very eN'ill wether, - as frost, snowe, and hail(^, as 
 tliouuh il had been tlie deepe of winter, wee thought it Ijest to 
 \\'inter there."" 
 
 In .huniary, aeeonhng to the record of A\'illoughl\v's jour- 
 nah ail were living. In the s])ring Russian sailors, ventui'ing 
 in llie>(> higli lalitud(^s, w(n'e sur])rise(l t(j see two shijis frozen 
 ill the ic(\ The rclentii^ss gi'i)) of the Arctic winter still held 
 tiiem fast ; the hand of death in its most gruesome sluqx' had 
 reaped its hai'vest. Not a man survi\-ed. How bi'ief tlie 
 dciaiis, yet the imagination shudders at the agonies of lh(>ir 
 last d:;\'s, - the cold, inlense, congealing; the inqjenetrahle, 
 melancholy dark, arnl death, la\ing its icy fingers u])on the 
 d(s));!iiijig h(-art of each in tuj'ii ;uid the 'dast Man,"" sur- 
 rounded by the stai'k foi'ms of his comi)anions, wi'estling 
 alone with inexoi'iihle fate. 
 
 ( 'l);ine(ll()r"s \-cssel, the Bdiki I'cntura, reached the ]]i\y of 
 Si. ?si('ho!as, tiud iaiidedi near Archangel, which was ihen hut 
 an i-o'.'iled cd-lle. He undertooI< ;i. joui'iiey to .M(.)sc(.)W, 
 \\'h:ch recalled in succe>>f'ul arrangemenis I'or eommercial 
 ei;f erpri-c. lin-siu nt l!ial time being almost as litlle Icnown 
 ::- tlie i'ar east. i!etrirning siifelN' to l^ngiand, lie wa> warmly 
 \i'e|c()!iied a.- ha\'ing ])ro\'e(l the ])raclical utility of Arrtic 
 
 ()];(> (if l!ie com])anio!is of ('hnncellor (jn this \-()yage. 
 Sie))i;('i; l-iiiiToiigh, n.iaterially aided by Sebastian ('abot, 
 ih.'M in lii- ( iglity-fourth year, set sail in bl.lb fi'oin (;i';i\-e- 
 ,-e!id. in ;i -iiKiil pinnace named ilw S( <irch-t/n'ifl. j'efoi'e the 
 1 1' ]);i r< Mi'e. the -hip ;md crew wei'c \-isiled by ('abot, an<l it 
 !- I'^'.-iii'ded oi' ihi- f;irewell x'i-it that "Master ('abot ga\'e the 
 puor Mio-t iib-ei'al ahiie^. wishing them to ja'ay U)r the good 
 ''iii'i uiie and |i!'i i-p( i'imi- -i!cc(-- of the St n rch-lh rifl : and f(ji" 
 \ ! r\' iMN ;l:;ii he had to -ee t(A\ardness of our intended dis-
 
 Mi; lir.;ii Wii.i.
 
 TlIK CORTimKALS 7 
 
 covcry, ho ontorcd into the (hince among lh(> r(>st of the young 
 and histy company; which being (nided hv and his friends 
 departed most gently;, conmiemhng us to tlie govt>rnance of 
 Ahnighty Ood." 
 
 l^urrough skirted the northern coast of La,])hui(I to the 
 eastward, discovering the strait leacUng to tlie Kara Sea, 
 bc^twcen Xova Zenihla and Waigat. As a n^sult of "Wu' 
 great and t(MTibl(> abundance of ice tha,t we saw with our 
 (\ves," Bui'n)Ugh (\\pIor(>(l no farther, but sailing into tlie 
 White Sea wintered at Coloniogro, rc^turuing home the follow- 
 ing spring. 
 
 As (^arly as 1500 a Portuguese, Cas])ar Cortej'e;d by nanu^, 
 (nidea\'oured to rc^ach Cathay 1)}' the Northwest Passage and 
 reached between 50° and 00° north latitude. After making 
 captive some fifty-seven nativc^s, for the ])urpose of making 
 tiieni slaves, he returncnl to Lisbon, October 18, 1501. 
 
 The following 3'ear he set sail again with two ships and is 
 supposed to luive reached Hudson Strait, where tlu^ v(\ssel,s 
 b(M'am(> s(>parat(Ml. Caspar CortcM'eal and his crew wcvo 
 nevc^- heard of again. 
 
 The otlier ship returned to Lisl)on with the unfortunate^ 
 tidings, and a l)rother, Miguel, set sail from Lisbon, in the 
 spring of 1502, on a sc^arcliing expcnlition. I'])on reaching 
 Hudson Strait the shi])s se])arat(Hl to ex])lore tlu^ various in- 
 l(^ts and islands of the locality. Two of tlu^ shij)s reacluxl the; 
 jioint of rendezvous, but the third, with ^Miguel Cortereal on 
 bo.ard, never appearcnl. Thus the two bi'others sIuuxmI a like 
 fatl^ 
 
 A third brotluM-, ^'asco, ])eti1ioned the king to ef]ui]~) anotlKM' 
 ex])edition to s(Mid in search of the missing uumi, but tliis the 
 king i'(>fused to do on the ground that the l(<ss of two was 
 gr(^ater than he could afford to sustain. No ti'lings vrei-e 
 ever rec(MV(Ml that could tin'ow any light upon the sad fate 
 of the bold mariners.
 
 8 THE CUE AT WHITE yOiri'II 
 
 One of the most curious ]:)ro(luetions by ji;oofrraplH'rs wus 
 a nia]) ])ul)lish('(l in looS l)y one Xiccolo Zcno. a Waictiaii 
 uoblc, whose auccstcjr of the same nanu^ had left with notes 
 and journals a record of certain northern journeys made by 
 liim toward tli(> end of tlie fcjurteenth centiny. lie liad en- 
 fred as ])il(jt the service of a mariner named Ziclmnh, re- 
 mainedmany \'ears in liis servic(\, and, joined hiter by a brother 
 cahed Antonio, spent some time in a coimtry lie named Fi-i-- 
 landa. Later both brothers fotmd their wa\' i)ack to \"enic('- 
 ddi(^ younj^ Xiccolo, discovering the nnitilated letter>and nKi])s 
 of these l)rothers, ])r(jcee(led to prejjare a narrati\'e and 
 elaborate map which was consideretl a mo>t \-aluable addi- 
 tion to knowledge and continued to be an authority for 
 more than a century. 
 
 The nam(>s are very curious and confusing, but are suj)- 
 ])0sed to be identified as follows : — 
 
 J']ngronelant, Clrr-enland ; Islanda, Iceland ; Estland, 
 Shetland Islands: Frisland, Far(K' Isl(>s ; Macldand. Xova 
 Scotia: r^stotiland, Xewf(amdland ; Drogeo, coa>t of X(M"lh 
 America : Icaria, c()ast of Kerry or Ireland. 
 
 The three \-oyages of Frol)i<her undertaktm betwe(>n ihe 
 year- blTii-blTS were in a great measure financc'd by a rich 
 ;md influential merchant named Michael Lok. whose ]);e--ion 
 for geogra])hical research led him to encourage the youug ex- 
 ])loi'ci'. who .-et out in. th(^ s])ring of b")7<) in two small \'e--eb, 
 ihc (inhriil and Miclun}. The latter ])arte(l comi);m\- in the 
 .Vtlantic, and the ("rVz/y/'/r/ com inued her \'oyai;'i' alone. Ih'o- 
 l)idier -iiihtcd land about July 20 and called it (^ueen Idiza- 
 Iwij,'. For.'lan.l. 
 
 ' 'oni inuin'i,' on hi- cour-e. he cntereil the followinu' day the 
 -n'ait 1 liat bear- hi- name, ealliliu' t he land "Mela I ncou-nil ;i." 
 lb' inadf a landinu' and e.\])loi'(Ml the l;ind to -ome extent, 
 r.'i ii!-ni:cr 1m !'aiL!,l;ind with -oine briiilil yi'l'.ow dt'c windi 
 a!'MU-c(l the '■nl!ni-i,a-m of irold .-cekri'- and uTeath' a--i-ted
 
 ynoBisHEi; — pkt am) jjckmax 9 
 
 liini in cxp'Hliting his otlun' voynv^vs. His primary aim of 
 stM'kins^ for \\\o Northwest Passa<2;(' was all l)\it for<>;otton in 
 tlic excitement caused by tlie possil)le cUscovery of untold 
 wealth. 
 
 (^u(HMi Elizabeth issu(Hl instructions for his <2;ui(lance upon 
 future \-oya;^es; "'Vf yt be ])()ssil)l(>," so sta1(^s tlu^ official 
 documenl , "you shall have some {persons to winter in the 
 straighi, ,a;ivin,<;' them instructions how they may observe 
 the naiui'e of the ayre and state of th(> count rie, and what 
 time of th(^ }('are the strai,L!;ht is most fr(>e from yce ; with who 
 you shall leave a sufficient ])re])aration of victualls and W(>a]i- 
 ons, and also a jiynnas. with a carpenter, and thyngs neces- 
 sarie, so well as ma\' be."' 
 
 The second journey, nmch better e(iuipped than tlu^ first, 
 brouj2;ht diome, Ix'side specimens of })lants and st()n(\s, lar^e 
 ([uantities of the sup])osed ^'old oj-e. I^ut thou<i;h th(> di'i^am 
 of an I'd Dorado v,'as nc^ver realized, and the oi'e was eventu- 
 ally ])rov(Ml worthless, l-'robisher's i^rcndest victory to sci(Mice 
 was ('stablishiu!^' the fact that there were two or more wid(> 
 oiieninti's kniding to the westward betwecm latitude ()()'' and 
 (K) ~ on tlu^ American coast. Of his jjei'sonal character we 
 nole with inter'^st that he was a brave, skilful leader of m(m, 
 rough in b(>aring, but a sti'ict disci])linarian, and carried 
 through his designs with the enthusiasm of a iv\w ex])lor(>r. 
 
 Arthur Pet and Charleys .lackman, connnanding two v(\s- 
 s"ls, >et out ill loSO with instructions to sail through the 
 strait leading betW(>(Mi Xova Zt'mbla and ^\'aiga1 , and from 
 llicni'e e-astward beyond the Obi Rix'ei'. They I'cached 
 V.'ardhuys on the 'iod of .June. About two \veel-;s later lhe\' 
 appi'oached \()\'a Zemlila. but ice i'(>1arded iheir adwmce. 
 Tli'\- sight(>d Waigal on the llHli of .luh'. \\'hile trying lo 
 ])\i<]\ their way along its soulheni coasl.lhey wei'e enibnr- 
 I'as^ed by shallows and obliged 1o go round by llie north. 
 TI'.i'V forced iheir \\'a\' between llie >!iore and a low inland
 
 Ill 
 
 THE GUKAT WHITE yo HI' If 
 
 only to l>c closed in by the ice. which slo])])C(l further I)rog- 
 fe<s. The shij)- were \vi(lely sej)arate(l. and (-(jiiU onl\- cc^ni- 
 niunicate with each ot!i(-r 1>\' the l)eating' of (hums or firing 
 of nuisj-cets. \\"arj)ing their shij)s as op])ortunit\' olfered, they 
 finally g(rt in clox'i- coniinunic;iti(jn. Of the v»-eath(-r, they 
 write a1 thi- time. "Winds we have had at will, hut ice and 
 fog< too mucli au'ainst (Mir wills, if it had ])!eased the Lord 
 otlu-rw'i.-e." Suri'(_)iuided by lieMs of ice, en\'elo])ed in fog, 
 th(\\' were oblige(l to make fast to icehiergs, where, "abiding 
 the Lord's pleasure, they conlinue(l Avith ])atience."' J>\- 
 the f;^th (jf Augu-t the seas(jn was con>idered too far ad- 
 vanced to penetrate farther, l^a had dis(;o\'ered a >trait 
 between the mainland and A\'aigat leailing iiit(j the KaJ'a 
 Sea, and with thi- n('Ws he returned to Ivngland. Jackman 
 wintered in a Xoi'wegian ])ort ; ,-ailing home in the spring, 
 his shi]) witli all on boai'd Ava.-^ lo.-t at sea. 
 
 The (li>tingui-hed l-)rid-!i n:ival connnandei'. Sir num])lirey 
 (iilbert, near relati\'e of Sir A\'ailer Pialeigh and fa\"()urite of 
 (^ueen l-ilizabeih. being ambidous to colonize Xewfound- 
 land, obiained in blTs full ];ov-'( r fi'om tl;e (jueen to \mder- 
 take a \'oyage (A di-eo\-ery aJid <enle >uch ])ai1> of ]\orth 
 America "a- no ('In'i-tian prince or his --ubjeets c(.)ulil claim 
 from pre\'iou> ])o>-er--ion." JIi> sec(inil \'oya,ge wa> under- 
 taken in b")S:!. and wiili h\'e -Iiips umler his command, he 
 sailed out of I'lyniou'li Souiiil. .lunc IL 
 
 A com anion- di-":i-e breakiiiL!,' out on mie of the \-e->eL. the 
 propertx' of Sir Walter Piaieiuii. and conmiaiideil by ('aplain 
 l-'>utler, it relnriieil in I'intiiand: lln' four I'emainlnLL'. the 
 
 ijJnihf. liie ^o^^,' //da/,, 1 he Sav,//.,//', and ill- Sr/./zV/v/, 
 >igli1e(l Nf\\-:oimi!!ai!d abdiU .hme :i(). Here lh.'\- lani!e(I 
 AiUiii-i 'b l:iki:i'j. pM--!--.i(ia oi' llic laarbciu' of M. .loiai'- in 
 ihc !i:.iic- ol' ( Micen Lli/;il 'I'l li. A miner, bi'ouuhl 'di' the jiur- 
 po-e of hndicL^ ])ri'!-!o;;- liietai-. -honi,! -aeh exi-t in thf- 
 ni'wb,- ( r!-eo\-e:'ed i.'iTitoi'w elainied lo locate a .-il\'er nain(.\
 
 pre r,i{rui /:: 
 
 .10 i ".tat 
 
 -iC ^cr^ri'^ t 
 
 -Mahtix J'ii( iuisiii:]{
 
 sni 11 1 \M I'll HE Y (; iL HE II r 
 
 11 
 
 which iKnvs was o-roctcd v/ith much cutlmsiasin b^' the en- 
 tire heei. So nuui\' of the crew h:i\"iii<.>: become ill, Sir Ilum- 
 ])lirey found il a(i\"isaliie to send home ihe Sa'dlhur with tiie 
 sick on bourd. lie then emb:u'ked on the SquiiTiI, (A only 
 ten ton>. the smallest siii]) ot' the fleet. 
 
 Sailin.ii out of tlie harbour of St. Jolm's on Au,ii'ust 20, he 
 reached 1)\- the 27th latitude 44° with fair weather. Two 
 days later a <iale aros(^ ])receded by a dense fo,2,'. The (iohicii 
 Ili'iuk and l)(li(jht wei'c beaten, in amon,ti tlu^ rocks and 
 shoals. 1die (iid'hn Hiinlc siu.-na!led to stand oui to sea, but 
 the Diliijht did u(.)t heed thi>, and was shortly afterwa.rd 
 wrecked ui)on a s'aoal, wiiere her stern was (fuickly b(>at{-n to 
 pieces. A few of the ci'cw escaped in a boat, b\it the cap- 
 tain and :i hundi'cd men went down v.'ith the shij). The 
 heroic ('ai>tai!i Browne, only I'ecently transferred from the 
 Siriillmr to the (rol'ii n flimlc, v\-hen ur^'ed to save himself, 
 spuriie(l the idea, and sioo;! bravely at his ])ost rather tlian 
 Ijear tlu^ repi'oach of ha\'iii!i' deserted hi.- ship, thoti^nh that 
 sliip. hiiiiseif. and all haihl> left aboardt w(>re doometl to de- 
 sti'uction. ddie >ma!l ! loat inti^ whicli a few had cro\\'de(l, 
 drifted about ir; the mid.-t of the uade, which threatened e\"ery 
 in.-tant to sAvamp them. 4"hey wei'e without food and su'Vered 
 gi'c-at ly fi'om ;hir.-i. I''eai'ii!.2,' the o\'ererowded bo;it would 
 founder unless matc-i'ialiy li.u'htened, a man name*! lle;idl(\\' 
 suu.''d'e.-t'Ml that lot> be drawn; tho-e drawing' thefoiu' .-hortest 
 >]ioulil bi' tin'ovvn Ov-c;'l)o,'i)'(l. Ibit oin' of thf-ir number, 
 Ibichar:! Clarke, A\'h(i had been master oi' the i)tjiij]it. I'o-c in 
 the lc.A\" aiid answered .-ternly, "Xo, we v.'ill all live or die 
 in eom])any.'" 
 
 "^Vwn more da>'< jsas-C'd wilh "ncrea^ed -urferinL!:<. They 
 tried to appea-e tlie ]),nm- (if huiiirei' with <(awee(l that 
 iloa.ti-'l on the -urface of th»' wa.\'('-, and, the\'dl-rank .--e;! -water. 
 On tlie fifth day the \wa\\ ilcadlcy dieil ;nid one otlaa'. All 
 ])Ut ( 'lai'ke wca'e Dra'.'inLi: to ( '.od tor d.catji, rather than -ucli
 
 1:> 
 
 THE (.IIKAT WHITE XOllTH 
 
 (■(iiii iiuicil a'j;oii\'. ( "hii'kc 1ri(Ml to cncoui'a.u'c lhcin l)y tcHin,ti; 
 ihciii ihcy Would >ufcl\' i'c;u'li land \)\ ihc niorrow', and if 
 they did iiol make il !)>' llic sc\-cnth da}', llii-y miuhl throw 
 him ()\-{'i'li()ai'(h The >c\'('nTh (hi\' came at la<t. and hy noon 
 thc\' siiilitcd hind, as ( 'larkc had ])r(j|)hc>i('d; in llic after- 
 noon t hey huidt'il. ddicy tiavc thanl<s to ( lod, and after slak- 
 inu; tlieir unliearahk' tliirst with fresli w;iter. the sti'onii,' ones 
 found so!ue hei'ries "rowinji; wild witli wliicli to feed tlie ])ai'ty. 
 In >e\'eral ihiy> they ^lo\\i\' re<iaine(I their -tren.^1ll. 
 
 Later the>' rowed alonti' the coa-t. lio])in.i;' to reach the 
 bay of Newfoundland and jneT some S])ani-li whak'r.s 
 Avho frequenle*! these watei'>. They sati.-fieil their huirii'er 
 ]>y eatinii' herrie- and ])eas. huulinti; at inter\'al- f(jr the ])ur- 
 ])o<e. I-^i-forc lonii' they fell in with a Spani-h -lii]): the 
 captain took them to St. Jean de Luz in the liay of ]ji-ca\'. 
 Landiim' near t!ie rren.ch fi'ontier. they t ra\'elled tlu'oim'h 
 l''rance and reacheil hhruland ahout the end of the \ ear l."),s:-i. 
 
 The lo-- of the jjih'ijhf wa- a -eriou- hlow to Sir IIumi)!ii'ey 
 riildcn ; of llie fi\-e -lii])- witli whicli he had >tarted onl\' the 
 (inbli n llinilr and the Sij/dri'il <ur\'ive(l. Tlie im])enet rai Je 
 foii- whic'i at thi- junetU!'e en\'elo])iMl t he>e shijjs Were mo-t 
 di-!ieai"i enin.Li,' to the crew, and already the pro\i-ion- on 
 i)oard the S'/nirrd AVei'c ruimini;; low. ( )fhcers and men 
 lM-(iUL!.hi Sif llumphi'ey to I'eiurn, lait reluctantly, \\ilh no 
 aliali-niriii iu hi- enlhu-ia-!n lor adventure, lie only con- 
 senlfd to alter hi- cour-e, upon their ])!'omi-e to emtiark with 
 huM a'.:;iin the followitiLi -pritm. ( )!i AuiiU-t dl tln-y tui'nrd 
 1 h<-ir i ,1 1\\--~ 1 ( )Ward home. 
 
 < )ii 1 he 'Jd of ScplcmlM'i', lia\'iiiu' liurt hi- foot and wi-hiirii' it 
 drc--(d i 'y the -umvi 111, Sil' IIump!il'e>' (lill'e!-1 lioardi-d the 
 
 (',,,hl.,i //'"'/., and l:Mer ivpc;!ird ihe \-i-it to take ])ai'l in an 
 enl "r1 ;iinmi'iii with the cajitain and I'l'ew. lie imiiiioned tin- 
 ^o^I■ow ;ii '\:t- iM-- of 1 he I )Ji,<hl . aud of (■(■i-i;iiti paptT- aud oiv 
 thai ihi' Sa\o!i mil.'-r h:id nroiMUvd ill N. wfoundla lid. lie
 
 DA VIS — BA REX TZ 1 3 
 
 was advised to rt^niain al)oard tho Golden Ilindc, the Squirrel 
 l)eii!<i so eiu'uinhered with h(>avy artillery and other freight 
 that she was not considered safe to face the storms so likely 
 to occur in mid-ocean at that season of the year. After con- 
 sid(-ration, Sir Huni])}u'(^y rc^plied, — 
 
 "1 will not now desert my little vessel and crew, aftc^r we 
 have encountered so many perils and storms togetlier." 
 
 Being su])])li(Ml from th(^ Hinde with some necessary \m)- 
 visions, Sir Hum])hrey returned to the Seiidrrel. 
 
 On tlie 9th of Se])teml)er, in the latitude of England, the 
 overl)urd(>n(Ml little craft of ten tons sliowed signs (jf found- 
 ering. Sir Hum])hi-f\v was seen by \hv Hinde -itting in the 
 slern of his vessel with a hook in his hand and was heard to 
 call out. — 
 
 ''Courage, my lads! we ar(> as near heaven on sea as on 
 land!" 
 
 At midnight sIk^ sank with all on ])(jard. Thus termi- 
 n:ited the first a1tem])t to cohjnize tiie inhosi)ila!)le shores 
 of Xewfoimdland. 
 
 P\)ll()wing closely u])on the disastrous voyagf" of Sir Ilum- 
 ])hre>' (lilhert (-ame the three v()\'ages of Davis betwcf^n the 
 ye;u's ] .IS.") and 1 .58<S. II(> (U-cov(^re(l the strait that beai's 
 his name. ()])ened a way to l^afhn l')ay and the Polar Sea, 
 anil surveyed a considerable extent of the coast of Greenland. 
 
 BetAveen the years l.V.)4 and b")00. \\'illiam Barentz made 
 three joiu'iieys to the Ai'etic, lo^ing his life in the disasters 
 and ]yi'i\'ati()ns of tlu> la-t voyag(\ Tn this tliird vox'age, he 
 nuide his way to the <ea l)etw(>'''n S])itzberii'en and Xo\'a 
 Zembla. Vv'here he wi'ites. "Wf came to so great a heap(> of 
 ice that we rould not sayle thi'ough it."" In .Vugust , b")9(), 
 the\' were surrounded by drifting ice which ci'u>hed around 
 tlieni witli -uch alai-niing h)rce as to make ""all the liaire of 
 our head- to ri<e ui)rigl!l willi feai'c."" d"liey made CN'ei'y 
 etVorl t(.) extricate themselves from their jjcrilous ijosition,
 
 14 
 
 THE umcAT nil UK soirni 
 
 i)Ut oil ilu" lull of Sc])t(']iilH-r " w'v saw that we could not 
 u'ct 'out ol' the irr, hut ratlu.-i' hccauic faster, and eould not 
 l(H)>r Dur ship, as at other times v\-e had (bjue. as also that 
 it tieuan to he winter. >(j took eoun.-ell together what we Were 
 he-t to doi'. accordiu,ii.' to the time, that we mijzht winter, and 
 attend >U!'h adveuTuro as Cod would send u> : and after 
 we had licbatcil upon the niattei' 'to kee])e and defend oui- 
 sei\-e> hotli fj'om the eoide and wiM heast.-'. we da'trrmiued 
 to huild a hou-e upon t he land, to kee])e u< thei'e in as well as 
 Wee eoui'l, auil to commit oui'~ ■l\'e> imto the tuition of Clod,'" 
 
 ^^d;ile -eai'chimi feir juaterial wherewith to huild their 
 winter-qu:irter-. they d.i-c()\-ere(l ;i ([Uaiitity of (h'iftwo(jd for 
 whieh tl,ey tiianke(l ( '.od for a -pccial act of Ih'ovideiLce, and 
 " w'riv much c<)m!'orled. Ix-inu; in ivood hope that (Wxl would. 
 show u-^ --ome fui'iher favour : foi' that wood >er\'ed u< not 
 
 opp,' to (lUlid oui' tiou-e. liUt a'-o to I'Unie, and ,-ei-\'e u- a 
 
 the winter lon'j. : otiierwi-e, ^\'it!iout all doiiiit, we had (lied 
 there mi-fl'aMy with ex^ I'eme cold." 
 
 In -p.ite of ihc intense cold whicli m;ide the liuildin'i.' of 
 their hut mo-i lahoriou-, thei'c wa~ open water an "ai'row 
 >hot " hivond ^lieir -hip. They d!"at:'ie(l their >tore~ on 
 hand -hd-, and hy t)n.,her tiieii' d'.velHmr. cloM'ly thatched 
 widi -ea rack to kerj) out ;i- nmch "oM a-^ po-,-hile. wa- com- 
 jth i",h ;ii|:! -'w.^ -I't HI) our dy.all and ma^le the clock -tride." 
 < 'ii 1 he i I h of \o\"( mil!'!'. " Wee -aW ; he >unne no more, tor it 
 W'l- no loiio''!' aho\-e i^.i' !:Mri/on: ti^en onr chirur'i'io!! na-dir 
 a ha" h to 'a;)ihe u- in oi' a wine-pipi\ AV'hcr; in w.-.- entij'.Ml 
 oiie ;ifo-r anotiie]'. and ii 'iid u- much uood. i\\v\ \\a- a iinat 
 nieane- (if Min' heahh."' 
 
 i!e'j'i!;iii.- Ill-- \\'( r-' e-t ai'li-licd. food wa - am )o!l ioiii 'd. ;ind 
 (■■■'ri .:^i'h!nL: d'-i I'ih^U ed. 'lh';ip- Weiv -ei i',,.' hiX'^- aiid 
 
 o- her u;mii-, hnt -oon i he wt-it !:■■!' heraaie -o riui c'on- t h: i !'or 
 Tiit \' we!'e ill daia ne-- exc.^pt lor tiieir (wr . the -mok' of
 
 tn t'!J n-rr i'l.! ri>a ^u co'ui -hdi^ 
 
 MU 11 ^\Il'lli;^:v ( iii.nKKT
 
 nAHE.\TZ 15 
 
 which bocanio uhnost uii(ni(hiral)l('. Ice formed two incht's 
 thielv in their berths, imd their misery may be imaj2;ine(l 
 better than deseribed. 
 
 On tlie 7tli ol' Dt'ceniber, they nianai2;ecl to secure some 
 coal from their shij), and with it made a p;ood fin^ which 
 waruKMl tbu>m somewliat, tliough it neai'ly as])liyxiat(Ml them. 
 The cold becoming ever more intense and tlieir su])ply of 
 wood (Uminislting, tiieir sufferings are Jioted repeatedl}' in 
 ih(Mr journaL 
 
 "It was foul(> weather again, with an easterly wind and 
 extreame cold, almost not to l)e(^ endured, where u])on W(^e 
 lookt pittifuUy on(> upon tlie othei', l)eing in great feare, that 
 it th(^ extr(\unitie of tlu^ cold gixnv to bec^ more and moi'e, wee 
 should all dye ltier(> with cold ; foi' that what fire socn'in' w(>e 
 mad(> it would not warme us ; yea, and our sake, which is so 
 hot. was froz(m very hard, so that when we were every man 
 to have his ])art, we wvvc forced to melt it in the fire, which 
 A\'ee shar(>d ev(M'y second day about halfe a ]iint for a man, 
 wh.cre with we were forced to sustaync^ ours(>lv(>s ; and at 
 other times we (h'ani-:(^ water, which agreed not well with the 
 C(il(I. and va^ iK-cded not to cool(> it with snow or ice; but 
 A\'i' \V(>re forced to melt it out of th(> snow." 
 
 I'h.'V W(M'(- often awed by tiie great volumes of sound, 
 '"like t]i(> l)ur>ling asunder of mountains and the dashing 
 thcni to a.toms." .\i)out tii(^ nniddle of January, they W(M'e 
 torccil, undei' grciit difliculties, to s(>cui'e wwvc wood, and, 
 making anotlier ti'ip to thi^ vessel, 1h(\\' h)un(l imich ice accu- 
 mulated witliin, an.d r(>turned to tlicii' hut with a fox caught 
 in the shi])':- cabin, whicli provided them with fresh me;)t. 
 
 ( )i! Twc'h'th \ighi th(y m;ide a. Iiei'oic effort to make mei'ry. 
 Tlicy di'ew!ot> for the honour of lieingkingof Xo\'a Zembla. 
 and the ginniei' w;is i'oyall>' in<t idled. Iinaginhng tiiemsel\-es 
 back in Holland, tliey drank to tb.e threi> kinu's of ( 'ologne. 
 soakinu' bi>cuit in the \\'in.(> that U)Y dax's thev had set aside
 
 1() 'nil-: a HEAT wiiitk soirrii 
 
 out of their scunt slofc to cclcbralc this "•2;r(';it feast." But 
 llic iutcusc (old and stot'iiis that soon followed excluded e\-ery 
 olhec idea, and for days 1hey were shut in, ti'yin.u; to hriuj^; 
 wai'nilh 1o llieir frozen bodies with hot stones, !)u1 while 
 siltinii; l)eh)re the fire, their hacks would he white with frost, 
 while tlie'.r st()ckinii;s would he burned l)c>f(ji'e the}' could h>el 
 heat to their feet. 
 
 Their stock of provisions was })econiinj>; exhausted, and 
 althou.uh they had seen traces of bears and heard the foxes 
 running; o\'er their heads, th(\v could not secure any. 
 
 On January 2t, ( ierard de \'eer, Jacob K(>einsdirk, and a 
 third c()ni])aiii()n, u))ou niakin,ii; their way to the seaside 
 toward the north, saw the sun above the horizon for \\\v fii'st 
 time. Xot havin.i!,' ext)ecte(l this event foi' fourteen days 
 latei'. Bai'entz was doul)tful of their acciu'acy. On the 2()tli, 
 one of their nuinlx'r who had lon,Li,' been ill died, and they du,ti; 
 a ,<i;ra\'e se\-(ai feel in the snow, "after that w h.ad read cer- 
 taine chaptei's and suna,- some ])salmes, we all went out and 
 bui'ie(l 1 he man." 
 
 As da\'li,iiht increased, they left their hut for sh.ort ])eriods 
 of e\erci>e. 
 
 ])>■ .Ma\' their impalienc(> to lea\'e this desolate s]M)t 
 prompted them to make pi'eparat ions for deparlur(\ and 
 without uaitinu' to <ee if tlieii' ship would be naxiiiable wIhmi 
 once i'e!ea--(>(| from the ic(\ they I'cpaired their two boats 
 and awaited the fii'--t opportunity "to ucl out of that wilde, 
 depart, irke-ome, feai'full, and cold counti'ey." 
 
 On the bithot June, l lie t wel\e sur\-i\'ors left I he mi-eraiile 
 --helter th;!l had been their home foi' ten months, and tool; 
 to the open b();it-. d'helf su rfei'inti;^ and pi'iwil ion-' c;mnol 
 be de-eril ,(.,| ; 1 h I'ee (if thcii' number suceumbed, and lia- 
 I'eiilz liim-ell' became loo ill tor sei-\'ice. 
 
 A- llie\- i);i--ei| b'y ('ape, a lie;idl;md of Ala-ka, latitude 
 70 'Jll' X.. loic^itude l(d^ 1(1' W.. liaivntz asked lo be lifted
 
 r,t > 
 
 I 
 
 "-*=^- 
 
 -n 
 
 1. 
 
 5i >>' ' 
 
 in ; 
 
 *- "_ 
 
 ' ', V 
 
 T 
 
 mn 
 
 . ^ . 
 
 /: J 
 
 -^ f 
 
 ; 1 
 
 ^ i 
 
 ^ ,"'/ 
 
 '« '!
 
 UAllEX'lZ 1( 
 
 u]) to s(M^ it i)\wv inoro, and the (l\"iii<;' man's eyes rcstml with 
 })l(';isurc ui)(>!i its cIumtU^ss ('(Just. 
 
 On the 1 \v(Mili('th (la\' of Jun(\, ]^ar(Mitz was told that a man 
 in the otlicr boat named ('la(\s Aiuh'iz was near death. He 
 remarked he would not lon<2; survive his conu'ade. He was 
 e\;uninin<;' at the moment a chart of the co\mtri(^s and ol)- 
 jeets they had seen (.)n their vo>'asi'e. He turned to CJerard 
 de \'eer, who had made this ehai't, and asked him for sonu>- 
 thin,a; t(.) drink. Hardly had he swallowed the liquid when 
 he suddenly ex])ired. Saddened and disheartened, the rem- 
 nant of this unfortunate (wjiedition stru<i'<;i(Hl on mitil Sep- 
 tember, when the}' reached the coast of Lapland. 
 
 After a voya<2;e of elevc^n lumdred and forty-three miles, 
 these heroes of th(> north left their ])()ats in the ''M(M'chant's 
 house" at ( 'oola as "a si<iii and t(jken of their deliverance." 
 A Dutch ship carried them to Holland, where they a])])eared 
 lu'fore the curious crowds of Amsterdam in the co<ttnne they 
 had woi'n in Xo\'a Zembla. The\' were h(.)noured by their 
 countrymen an.d made to I'epeat their wonderful ad\'entures 
 before tlie mini-^ter> of the lla.U'ue. 
 
 I'o the eai'ly maps of the period at the close of the sixteenth 
 cent U!'y, Xewfoundland and adjacent coast line had been 
 added by the ('al)Ot-^, who had reached as far as ()7° north 
 latitude. r'robi>lu'i' Sti'ait. an outline of the lands that he 
 had \-isitcil. Davis Strait, and a ])ortion of (Ireenland's east 
 coa-t. \^\v^ . moi'e im])ortant than the discovt^ry of new leiTi- 
 toi'v w;i.- the stinmlus to Arctic entei'])rise, which throuuh 
 I'icnai'd ('hanceilor had e>tabli>he(l \'aluable trading' acti\"i- 
 tics between 1-Ji^land and far-distant IvUssia. The journe\-s 
 of tlie ('ot'/reals had o])ened a wa>' to Spanisli and Portu- 
 ,uucs(> fisi!erie> oif the bank< of Xewfoundland, and Frobi<lier"s 
 suppo.-ed (lisco\-er\' of <j:old in distant lands had ^i^iven zest 
 to (l!-c(i\-er\- in the X(>w World !>\'the l^imlish. exemi)lifie(l by 
 Sir fluinpluey ('.ilbei't's dai'insi but misuccessful attemj)t to 
 (■'.ildui/e Xewfoundland.
 
 CILVrTER II 
 
 ^.'■\-ciitc('tiili nml fiu'liTcfiilli fi'iiturics : ITiul>on. — RafRii. — Dc-h- 
 i:.-i'.''. 1 ')i'lirii!!j,\ - S<-li;ilar(jf'f. — Tchil-cliauxjf. — Aiijou and \\m 
 Wraii-t 11. -riiii)ps. 
 
 Xo ccnlury !ia- ])ro(luc('(I a more dariny; or rciiownod 
 iiiariiii'i' ihaii Iltiii'v Hud.-on. (jr one wlio.-c melancholy fate 
 lia~ ])ri)\"()k(Ml more ])it\'. I)(PA'u Tlii'nii<:h the decatlcs tlic 
 >i()]'\' of hi- ad\'('nTuro.- has liccn lold and I'ctold at ihc firc'sidc 
 of liic old t(j the ca^iicr car.- and (luickcninji inia;i,'inalioii of the 
 younu'. 
 
 Talcntf-d,. iiid.cfatiLL'ahlc. fcai'lc>s. his achic\-cincnt s, in the 
 infancy of Arctic c.\])!oi'a1 ion. handicajjpcd hy the hudv of all 
 that in\"cniion and sci<'ncc ha.- .-ccurcd to modern e.\])lorei's, 
 ])lace him in the fir-t rank, with the orea1e-t na\'iuator< the 
 wiirld ha- kniiv/n. .\- e;irl\' a- lt)()7 he had di-t inuni-tied 
 him-clf !i\- pn-hinu' a- fa!' noi'th a- lat it ndc si ^ ^,". in hi- eiVort 
 to follow the in-tructions of ihe Mu-co\'y ( 'ompan>' to peiie- 
 1ra1e lo I lie I'ole. .\1 1 enil)t iliU' t lie Xorl he;i-t ra--aii'e iii IhOS. 
 he .-;nv Xurt !i ( ':[])r ()]\ I lie iM of June : jtu.-hinu' to the ea-t- 
 w'ard on parallel- 7 \'' and 7')'. la- -killed Nova Zemhla. hut 
 foninl ii im|)o--ihlc to pi -net I'ate Ihc^lici' i han 72^ 2.")'. 
 
 The 111 \t yeaf tlic Dnlch -ent him to t I'y thi< l)a-.-ai:e 
 a:r.'iin. tiioM'.i.h the prexdnu- voyaii'e had coiudnced him that 
 i!;e >, ( ,ri hi M-i Pa--aU'' wa^ iti i] )ract ical. 
 
 !!•■ ra—'d \\';.:-hii>--. reiurninL!.' pa-t North ('ape. i)U-hinii.- 
 
 hi- Way "m the Ame!'ii-,'ili cna-t. wficre he -earched iMl' a pa-- 
 
 ■s inii I Xi-w ^'<lrk harlniur. ih-ci werei ! the maiL- 
 '1 i,.i, 
 
 iliii-'eal ri'.'e!' whirl! he']!'- id- naHie. Thi- -plejlilld .achleX'c 
 
 me! It oni\' .~t ii'i'ed hi- am hit ion- fni't her. and under t he pat ron 
 
 is
 
 irrnsox ID 
 
 :it!:o of Sir .lohii Wolstonholmt^, Sir Du(ll(\v Dip;,2;os, and oilier 
 (lisliiiiz;uis!i('(i men, u vcrisel of fift,y-tivc tons was fitted out 
 and ])rovisi{)n((l for six months. 
 
 I'ndcr the comniand of Hudson, the Discorcry set sail 
 A])ril 17. 1(110. Touchinji; at Orkney and Fai'o islands, they 
 siiihtiMl the southeastern pari of Iceland, May 11. Later 
 they reached the N'estnianiui Isles, and saw Mount lic^cla in 
 (n'U])tion. On June 4, Hudson ^\•rites, "This day, we saw 
 (dreenland ])(»ri'ectly over the ice ; and tliis ni<2;ht the sun Avent 
 down due norlh, and rose north-north-east, so plying the fifth 
 day we were in G.")°." 
 
 Takinji' 1heii' eoiu'sc^ northwest, they passed C'a])e Deso- 
 lation. A school of whales was si,u,hted at this juncture, and 
 later iceher.u's were encountered. In June tliey saw liesolu- 
 tion Ishuid : .u'ointi to tlu^ south of this island, they were 
 carfied by the current northwest, \uitil lhey struck shore ice, 
 from which it A\'a> most difhcult to (wtricate thenr^eh-es. 
 
 At ihis time a <iT<>^vin,!i- discontent anion,!;; tlu^ men first 
 ai)pear('(l on board : some were for returnin,^; l)efore tlu^ ]ieriLs 
 of the journey sliould become <i'j'eater, others were for con- 
 tinuinsi'. Hudson sliowed them ;i chart showinji' that lhey 
 had sailed Ivv'o hundre(l leagues f;u'lh(M' ihan any Enti;lishni(>n 
 had sailed before. The situation of the slu]), at times cm- 
 bedded in ice, at oth.crs ])usl!in,<i' hei- way through leads of 
 o])en A\ater, \\'as ci'itica.l and discouraiiing, but Henry Hudson 
 continiU'd liis intricate navigation, finally being rewarded by 
 finding himself in a clear, open se;i. Sigliting three head- 
 lanil>. lie called 1hem Prince Hem'\' ("a])e. King Janu's, 
 and (^iiieen Anne, and, conlinuing, he saw a hill which he 
 called Morml Charles, and latei- siuiited (■a])e Sali-l)Ui'>'. 
 A\ liile exploriiiii' llie south >l!ore, h(' disco\'rre(l an i>!and, 
 one i)()int of wliich he named Dee])e ('at)e. t!i(> otliei', 
 Welstetiliolme. Ife entci'cd a ba\', A\'!iich, fi'om the date, 
 he called Michaehua> I5av.
 
 10 
 
 ri/K CHEAT wiiiTi: xoirrir 
 
 The season was adx^anciiiii;'; already Hie days were very 
 short and llie ni,iz;hls Ion,*;' and cold. l{ea!izin,<;- it was lime 1o 
 find sliellei' I'oi- llie winter, he east about to (hscovei' a suital)le 
 location. Hy the fii'st of \o\-eml)er he had the vessel liauled 
 ai!;roun{l, and ten days latei- it was fro/en in. The stock of 
 IX'ovisions was very low, hut thc^ men supplemented it hy 
 killin.u; or trappin.u; an\'thin<2,- that was ser\-iceahle for food, 
 and aft(>r ,!;ame left them in tlu^ spi'in_u;. tlie\' lived on such 
 l)i!'(;s as tlie\' could secui'e ; Avhen these, too, mi,iira1ed, t he\- 
 at(^ moss, froiis, and buds. 
 
 With t !u> l)i'eakin,<i' up of the ic(- in the s])rin,u', preparations 
 were made for returuinu' home. 
 
 In Hudson's own l)a>', in 1 he cold embrace of the shoi'es he 
 liad explored, IlejU'y Hudson di\'id(Ml the last reumants of 
 food e(]uall\' amonu; his men. They \\'ere a faiui.-lied, de- 
 s])airin,u; crew. iiKuhlened with suCfei'in^t!,-. Tli(> cr_\' foi' bi'ead 
 was in theii' \-ilals, and tliere was no bi-e;id. llun^ucr and 
 miser}' made their b|-ains reel, I'oblxMl them of theii' ?i,'odli- 
 ness, and rediiced them to wild animals at bay. It took but 
 the encoui'a<i('ment of one of their numbei', ( '. I'een by name, to 
 incite 1 hem to mutiny. 
 
 On June 21, ''The shii)'s comi)any. both sick and well, 
 were in berths, di-pes'sed t^'enei'aiiy two and two about the 
 ship. Kin^', one of the crew who was su|)posv'd to be fi'iendly 
 to Ilud-on. was uj), and in 1 lie mornim!,' 1 iie\' secured him in 1 he 
 hold i)y fastcniii!:; d(twn the hatches. (Ircen thci; went and 
 held the carpenter in con\'ei--;at ion to anmse him, \\!iile two 
 of the ciMW. kecpiiiji; ju-l before IJud-^oii, and oiii'. named 
 \\ il-on, behind him, bound his haiid>. lie ,M-!-,.'d \\h;i1 ihey 
 w ere ; I bout , and 1 lie\' Inid him he should kin )\\' when he w;;!- ui 
 the -halliip. Another uiiMiiieer, ,Iue1, Wen; (liiWM i!> Kin;.'," 
 in the hold, win i ki pi him a 1 1 saw bi^inu' a I'liied wit ii 1.! -' -w oi'd. 
 lie c;nne upiHi f\<rrl. P) Him'-dm. whoin lie fonnil wilh his 
 hand,- tied. Hudson wa,- he;ird to i';ill 1o the c;n-pen1ei-, ami
 
 Till. I )L \ I li ' '1 I I i.\ i:"! I
 
 BAFFLX — IlFAlIUya 
 
 21 
 
 1<'ll him lie was lM)un(l. Two of the devoted party, wlio wen^ 
 sick, told 1h(~ mulineers their knavery would he punished, 
 '^rhey ]>aid no allentioii ; the shallop was hauled \\\) to the 
 side of 1 he \-es>el, and lh(^ sick and lame were made to get into 
 ii. The carpenler, whom they had agrecnl to retain in the 
 vessel, asked iliem if lh(>y would not be hanged when they 
 reached I'^nglaitd, and Ixjldly refused to I'emain with them, 
 ))referi'ing to share the fate of Hudson and th(> sick men." 
 
 The crew tlien set sail, and the boat in which wei'e Hudson 
 and his com])anions was nevei' s(H'n again. After many hard- 
 shi])s and vicissitudes and nnich loss of life through the 
 onslaught of the iLatix'es, where they landed to secure food, a 
 renmarh of ihe unfortunate ci'ew found their way ])ast the 
 ("aj)e of (iod's Mercies and thenc(> to ('a])e Desolation in 
 ( h-eenland. Pursuing their homewai'd ccjui'se, they were re- 
 duc(>(l to the la^l extremities b}' lumger, one-half a fowl fi'ied 
 in tallow ])er man being their onh' sustenanc(> each twenty- 
 foiu' hours. 
 
 .bl-1 bcfoic llieii' \{\>\ ])ii'd wa< devoiU'ed. they sighted \\\o 
 north of Ireland, \\iiei'e they landed, and later made their 
 wa\' lo I'lyniouth. 
 
 I'lillowing \\\i- example of ITud.'-on, and with the ]:>ur])Ose of 
 further disco\-er\', P>aflin set sail in KiKi and exi)lor(Ml 1he 
 \"ast bay eig!i1 lumdred miles long and thi'ce hundred miles 
 wide that beai's his name. He saw Lancaster Sound and 
 brouuht home ol>sei'\'alions and reports of lalilude and 
 louuilude, the accuracy of which wa< doubted for many 
 ye;!rs, bul has since been verified and accrediteil to him. 
 
 i'-(iually tragic with the f;ite of Henry Ihuboti was the 
 \[i<\ \"oyage of lha1 gr(^at Pussian C(.)nmiander, Ijchring, 
 ^vllo-^e lil'e \v;is one long recoi'd (^f heroic achievement. He 
 hail -('(11 many ])arls of the woi'ld whil(> sei'\ing under Peter 
 llii' ('.feat, by whom he was y:i\'en ihe commis-ion of li(-u- 
 teuanl in 1707, and ca])taiii-lieutenant in 1710. In a ])i'e-
 
 ■2-2 THE (niEAT whitk yoirrji 
 
 vioiis A'()\'a,ir(' lie had ('X])loi'c(l the sti'uiTs which l)(>ar his 
 iiainc l"h(>(' straits liad hccii iia\'i<iat(M[ liciirly a century 
 l)cfor«^ hy DcslmciT, one of the early iiu.-siaii ex])lorers who 
 made se\'('ral X'oyaut - between 1040 and 10-16. His <:,reat 
 object WMS In rotuid, t(j tiie ni(juth of the Ana<lr\' Piiver, 
 an<l there form a traders' settlement. Deshneff and his 
 con!])anions wre the fii'st navigators to sail frcjm the Arctic 
 Scu to the Paciiic, and ])r(jved, at a miicli earlier ])eriod than 
 i- <i.'enei'all\' >ii]")])(j.-ed_, that the continent.^ of America and 
 Asia are not uniteih 
 
 liehi'ing -el .-;til .June 1, 1741. \\ith t^\•o vessels from Kamt-- 
 chaika in the hai'i>our of St. I^'ter and St. Paul. Steering 
 ea-1^\■al■d toward the Am(-i'ican continent, he -iglited land the 
 isth of .Jul\'. in latitude .IS' 2s' and o(j'- longitude, from 
 Analr-dia. ('a])tain T^chirikow A\-ho conmuudeil this sc'coml 
 I'oat, had -eeii tlie landi n U-w days ])re\"iou~ly and. ha\"mg 
 d(-lernnne(l to -.-nil ^on;(' men a-hoi'e for in\'e.-t iii'at ion. the 
 .-hallei]) and long-boat wi-i'e maniK-d with sex'enTcen <jf the 
 cr;-\V for thi- ])Uri)o-e. 'hhey nevei' I'etumed to the >hi]). 
 Such a !i:'a\-c di>a-icr detei'nhn(-d Jjehring to send this 
 \"e--i'l bail; to Kanit-ehal ka. 
 
 He ])roe(-(Mlc(l on hi- \-oya,ii.e alon(', ho|)in<r to rc^ach as 
 hi lib biTit udi' a- i)( I', but prou'rc-- wa.- >!i,\v. owint:: to t he \'ai'ied 
 i'oa-1-iine ;uid the labyi'inlh of i-laudi-- wiiich bordc)- tlii- 
 \'i''iniiy. d'f.f}' fi-li in witli ;t U-w nati\'i'<. \vl:o had b(-cn on 
 a. fi-bin'j.' ex|>'H;n ion. wiib whom thf^y iMld -ome fi'i'^ndly 
 iniircM]irM-. bro'^n-- cdniinued i<> be ri larded by calms 
 and cui'i'enu-, and finally iln'iy wcathi^r -'-l in early in Srp- 
 I'liibci' ;,no I'.'iL^'i! m ,-! \iiiiiiii -i.frm foi' -I'X"' ntccn d;i\>-. 
 
 4 ;j- -'":!'■,•;/ n^'W ;!'t;c'k.'d bee ci'i-w. and numi-mi;- df:ii h< 
 O'^rmTid. b.i ! rin'^' d' i<i'miiii'd to rri urn tn Kcmt -''liat ka. 
 d'hri^n'^h ;in unh i;"".m;!^ ' ■ i>lundei\ ih<-y 'iTcil in ihiir cour-e. 
 en ' l;inil i'''ni;hni'd \'w:-\'^-\i-. 'I"l:c :i; ii »ri Kehi of winlrr 
 bei-niii' ;i';!i'nnn::'. li,e cold inr|-ia-i'd. an.d rain turncbi lo ice
 
 BKIllllXG -l-'i 
 
 and v-wQW. Th(> unfortuuutc^ crcnv wore in a pitiable coiidi- 
 tioii iVoui tlu' niiscrahlc discntsc that laid hold of them. The 
 Hteei'siiian had to Ix^ supixnled at the \vh(H>l by two other sick 
 men that he might coiitiime at his post of duty. Finally 
 lie was disabled, and men hardly more fit took his place 
 one by on(\ Almost daily some one died, and the ship, no 
 lon<z;er witli enough hands to man lu^-, was at the mei'cy of 
 the elements. The nights became long and dark, the water 
 su])i)ly was running low, and certain destruction and death 
 awaited the rc^nnant of human beings left on board, unless 
 a harbour of I'efuge could l)e found. 
 
 At last on(> morning land was sighted. Tlie a]:)])roach was 
 diflicult, th(^ ship so ci'ippled as to be almost unmanag(uible, 
 and the rocks threatened instant destruction. Darkness 
 came on 1)efore they could make a landing. In tlieir att(nn])t 
 to anchor, two cables parted, and the anchors were lost; 
 they had no third anchor in r(>adiness. 
 
 At this juncture it secnned as if the hand of Pi'ovidenco 
 interv(>ned, for a huge wave lifted them across a sand bar, 
 belween a narrow ()i)ening of high rocks, and tliey found 
 ■lh(>msel\'es in eahn water, where the next da\' tlu\v made 
 a succes>ful landing. Tlu^ land ])i'o\'ed a barren and treeless 
 island, foi'tunately A\'ell sii])|)!ied with game, but ihe.re wtis 
 no h.ut or shelter- of any kind, showing it to be iminhal)ited. 
 Such of llie crew as wen^ :d)le made slielters und(M' ])rojecting 
 sauil-biuilcs, u^ing sail-clotli to keep out 1h(> wind and cold, 
 and lliere they brouglit 1lu>ii' sic]< ;ind d\'ing com.rade^. F>ut 
 the sliock to some of the sicke<t ]iro\'ed fatal, and, liefoi'e 
 thi'ir dead bodices could be inPM'red. foxes attacke(l ;uid 
 (le\-oure(l ])oi'tions of the hands and f(>et. 
 
 A six'cial sh(>lter was imah^ loi' the brave old ca])tain. now 
 I'i'duced to ihe last exl remit i(-s of disea-e, his Ijody {'inaciatcd, 
 liis mind (Mifecblcd. He was mo\'ed XoN'cmlier \\ and thd'e 
 he lay d.ying, ]iassing the W(ary hours in tlu^ vagaries nf
 
 lii 
 
 TiiK (.itr.A'r Willi 1-: yairni 
 
 {Iclii'iuni, 1 ) y covcrinu' his shrunken form wilh >;ni(l, ijial\iiii!; 
 his own li'raN'c, a- il were uiitih on Dc'ccniocr s. 17 l\ . h(- j)a.-.-('(l 
 away. There he rest>, l>ehrin,u' Ishuid his se])ulcin'e, and his 
 name is u])on e\'ery map of the world, ,-heiwin,u' lhe .-ti'ait- 
 (H\-i(Hn,ii- Xorlli America and A.-ia, throuji,h which he .-ailed 
 in lhe ,ulory of hi> ])rime. 
 
 The command \\'a- now under A\'axall. who rallied hi> mt^n 
 to superhuman elf(jrt. that lhe\- mi.uht ])a.-> lhe wear\' \\-in1ei' 
 and allempT makinu' their esca])e in the >i)i'iii,u-. A f-'iu'hlful 
 blow 1(j their ho])es \\'as the wreckinii,' of tlieir ve.--el and a !o-- 
 of valuadle fo(jdi supl)lies, Avliicli i(Kjk place the 2!hh (jl' l)e- 
 cemher. 
 
 Wy March. 1712, the f(jrty-five sur\'i\'ors 'thirty (jf their 
 riumker ha\dn,a ])eri-hcd) wei'e confi'onted 1 iv the prolTtn of 
 how to make theii' e.-ca])e when the ice -hould ])crmit. Their 
 l)oat wa- a total wreck', and their only lio])e la\' in con- 
 st i-uctin,L!,' fi'om the delji'i- a craft that ^\■ould hr -ufliciciiilx' 
 t ru.-twort hy to cai'i\\' t hem to civilization. At \\ axalh- -uu- 
 !ic-lioti. they took the old \-e.->cl to ])i<-cc.<. and oiic Sa^\"a 
 .-^laradoul)Zo\', a nati\'e of Sihei'ia. ^vho had worlc(-il in the 
 :-hi!)yard at < )khot-k, offcrecl to con-ti'uct the new craft. 
 
 I\ai'l\' in ]\Ia\' the -hi]) wa- -tai'teil. It wa- f(>!'y\' fed 
 loii'i and thirteen ki'oad. on(> ma-ted. a ^mali cal)in in the 1)oo]t 
 and a ualley in lhe fore ])art of the ve.--e!. A .-eco!id -mall 
 ! oat wa- al-o madic. 
 
 • hi ihc lOih of Auu'u-t il wa- launched ;uid chri-1ene(l the 
 >■/. I'lhr. Durimi'a few da\--' e;d!n that fi ill. )Wc<j. i h.' ;'ud,, irr, 
 .-ail-. Mid liail;i-1 were ailju-ted. Pro\-i-ion- and .-ucli fur- 
 a- lliey had ei, III -I'll -d wei'e ]iul akoal'd. and ll;e\" -ei -ail '>\\ il;e 
 liilh. AhhoULih Slaradoulizo\- had nex'er h>'en a cai'iien'er. 
 hi- erafi pro\-i'i| -i';iworih\' and lc•l■;l-^■d ;i 'jiA^ in liic- -'caO'". 
 
 ddiey -iuhtid Iv.illl-eh.-itka. AULLU-t 27). e!i1«-l'id ll.'- !'a>- n] 
 A\\a1-ka 'hi' nexl daw and made r..i!l ai I'l-l I'ej )a fez-ki . 
 
 AUU'.-' 27. h i- plra-Cil 1o Hole lh;..l li,r i;u--i;m UiC.'e:')!-
 
 .Lvjor Ayjj vox \vrangi:ll 2o 
 
 i)!('ii1 conferred the lowest rank of nol)ilily upon Sawa Slara- 
 <loui)Zo\', that of Siiihoiarskoy. 
 
 Th.e Jvussians have been untirin<i; in their en(leav(var to dis- 
 eovr a i)assa<i'e eastward lo the north <jf ('a])e Taimner and 
 Cape ( '!iela,i!;skoi. in 1700, Schalaroff attempted to force the 
 ])a-sa'i,'e tfiat had ])rove(l so disastrotis to Jjehi'in^' ; in s])iteof 
 iinitinx' and hardshi]). he renewed his atte!n])t three times, 
 1)UT was finally wrecked al)out sevent\' miles east of Cnpc 
 ( 'hda^skoi, wliere he and his crew perisl.KMl miserably from 
 starvation,. 
 
 Adniii-al I'chitscha^'of (>ndeavoured to force a ]:)assap;o round 
 Sl)it/;liei'u'en in the year ITtJl, but in s])ite of coin'a,<i'e and 
 l)er<e\'er:ince, his ex])edit i(jn war^ unsuccessful. Later ( "aj)- 
 tain P)iliin,i':> in 1787 made two atteni])1s, Ijoth (jf which W(-re 
 unsuccessful. 
 
 AIan>' years later, 1S20 to 1823, Lieutenant Anjou and 
 Admiral A on A\'ran,t;cll made a series of remarkable sledt;'o 
 journeys stai'tin,u: i'r<.)m the mouth of th(> Kolyma Liver. (.)n 
 the fourtli jourricv. March, 1S2:), \'on A\'!'ari,t!,'ell reached 
 latitude 70" ol', lon,2itude 17-")^ 27' ^\'.. one hundred and five 
 \-ers1-- in a dired line from the mainhmd o\-rr a fi'ozen sea. 
 Sevei'al times the ])arty came neai' lo>in<i their li\'es by 
 breakin.u' throuuli the ice. After reacliin,u' this hi.^'h lati- 
 tude and rccounizin.ii' siuns of o})en watia' to the north, \'on 
 W'ranu'ell \\'rite< : — 
 
 '■ \o1 wit hstandin,u" this sui'c token of th.e imi)o<sibili1y of 
 ])rocec(lin.u- nnich J'urther, ^\•e continued to u'o due north for 
 aboin nine- \'er--t-, when we an'i\'ed at the edo-(. of an inunense 
 bi'eak in the ice, ext cndiu'i,' ea-t and V(-\ further than the 
 eye rouM reach, and which at the narrowest jiart' was moi'(> 
 1 h;m a iiUiidr-'d fat hoiMs acro-s. . . . We clinibcd one of the 
 lofiic^i ice hilk. whei'e we obtained, an exi "ii-ice A'iew tow.ards 
 the n.orih. an<l whence we beheld ilie widi , immea.-nrable 
 ocean -i)read bef'ore (nu' j'aze. Il v.'a^ a feai'ful and mauniii-
 
 2i! rilK CHEAT WHITE XOBTIL 
 
 cent, but K) us a uiclancholy. spccTaclc. Frauiuonts of ice of 
 (Mionnous size fioatctl on tlic surface of ihc ajiitatc<l ocean, 
 anil AVere thi'own \)X the waves with awful violence a.uainst 
 the cdn-c of the ice-lield (jn the further side of the channel 
 behjre us. The colli.-ioirs were s(j trenien<l(ju<. that lai'uc 
 masses were ex'ei'v instant hrcjken away, and it was exidcnt 
 that the ])orlion of ice \\-hich still diA'idedi the channel from 
 the 0])en ocean would soon l)e completely destroyed. Had 
 W(' att(-ni])te(l to ha\"e feri'ied oin'>ch-cs aci'oss u])on (jiie of 
 the iloatinu; piece- of ice. we >hould not ha\'e found firm 
 f(^(jtin<i; ujion oxw ai'rival. Kvdi on our >idi\ fre-h lane< of 
 Walter A\"ere continually formin,a\ and exiendin.,u' in e\'ei'y 
 direction in the field of ice behind u>. A\dlh a ])ainful f(-e!- 
 in<i' (jf the im])o-->!hilit\' of overcomin,u' the oh.-ta.clc- which 
 Xatui'e oi)])o-ed to U-. oui' la-t ho])e \'ani-he(l of dii-covering 
 the hmd wliich we yet Ix'lieA'cil to e\i-t."" 
 
 Of the difhcultie- that confr(.)n.ted them upon their return, 
 Adniii-al \'on A\'ranu'ell write-: — 
 
 "We had hardly ])roccfd(Ml one verst wlien we found oui'- 
 sclve< ill a fre-h labyrinth of lane- of watci\ whicli hfiMiiiod 
 u- in on e\'cry .-ido. .V- all the hoatinu' i)iccc- around u- were 
 .-inallcr than the (.me on whicji a\-c -tood. which wa- -f\'enty- 
 fi\'e fathom- aero.--, and a- a\'c -aw nian\" ccrtaiPi indacalions 
 of an ai)proacliin2: -toi'm. 1 thought it beiid' to rfiiiain on 
 the larger naa--, wliirh offered u.- >oni('\\'hat more >ec!nity. 
 and thu- we waited ouiell\' v.haie\-er Pro\-id.(-nce >honld 
 d--eree. l)ark cloial- now I'o-e from l!;e we-t . andi i he whole 
 at ni( i-phii'e liecanie filled with a damp \'a]M)!'. A -^i'nmi' 
 breeze -i a !,di ! i ! \" -p!'aim' up I'rom llie we-t . and iiwiva-i'i ! in 
 h'-- lean hah' an hnur 1o a -lorm. lA'ery nionieni l.i.ii,e 
 ma--e^ (if ice around u- wei'i' da-he(l auain-1 each ebl.i-r, and 
 111'' i'-:e!i in In a t '!!on-:ind iVaLmi'-ni -. ( )ur Ih. t !•' pa:i\' ivnaiiiK-di 
 f;i--t on (iMf ie.. idai;d. whieli wa - l(.--ed 1o and fl'M by l!:e 
 wa\'i-. \\'( ua/i d in nie-1 painful inaeti\dty (;n ihc wild
 
 PI IIP PS 27 
 
 conflict of the cloinciits, ('X])C('tin<i; every moment to be swal- 
 lowed u]). We had been three lon«;' hours in this ])ositi(jn, 
 and still ihe mass of ice beneath us held to<>;ether, when sud- 
 denly it was cau.iiht by the stoi'm, and hurletl a(2;ainst a larj^e 
 field of ice. The crash was terrific, and the mass beneath us 
 v.'as sluittered into fra<iments. At that dreadful moment, 
 when esea]:)e seemed im])o^sibl(>, the im])ulse of scdf-presc'rva- 
 ti(.)n inii)lanTed in every livin.u; being saved us. Instinctively 
 Vs'e all s])ranii; at once on tho sled<>;es, and ur.ged the d(jgs to 
 tii(ii' full s])ee(l. They flew acnjss the yielding;' fra<i'ments 
 to th(^ held on -which acc had been stranded, and safely 
 reached a part of it of firmer character, on which were sevc^ral 
 Immmocks, and where the cloR's innnediately ceased runninjj;, 
 conscious, a])])arently, that the dan<i,er was past. A\'e wei'e 
 saved : we joyfully embraced each other, and united in 
 thanks t(j (i(jd for om' ])reservation from such imnun(Mit ])eril." 
 
 The ])rimary objf>ct of the rhi])])s ex])e(lition sent out by 
 the Pioyal Societ}' of I'Jisland, under the solicitation of the 
 govei'innent and ail scientific men of the time, was to reach 
 the Mai^iV'tic Pole and solve, if possible, the causes of the 
 ^•aria"ti()n oi' tlie com])ass and other M'ientific problems. 
 A\'ilh two \-e<sels, the lificdiorsc and the ('(ircosr, ('ai)tain 
 rhii)])s -I't out in 177;-) and skirted the (astern shore of Spitz- 
 l.}er_u;^-n to .S()° IS' nortli latitude. Here he was be>et \\'ith ice 
 and could ])roeeed uo farther. Accom])anyin<}; this ex])e(Ii- 
 tion was younu; Xelson, lat(-r the hero of Trafal<i;ar. An anec- 
 doii" of Xei>:in shoA\'ing his coiu'age and daring on this 
 trip i< Told a- follows : — ■ 
 
 ''While out in small lioats one of the officers had v\'ounde(| 
 a walru-. . , . I'he w<»un(led animal (li\-e(l innnediatel\'. 
 and lirouglii uj) a number of iis compaifions : an.d they 
 join(>d m an attark on the boat. T}ie\' wre-tcd an oar from 
 on*' ol' till' men. an<l it wa- with tlie ulnio-t difiicullx' that 
 thr crew could i)ri'\-ent them from >la\ing or u])setling her,
 
 Tin: (.in:. IT white .yoirrii 
 
 Till Xclsoii caiiic u]) : and ihc \\';ilrus(>s, find'nn;- IIkmi" cncinics 
 llni> n'('!il'()i'ct(|. (li.-pcrscd. \ ouiil:; XcL^oii exposed liiiii- 
 sell' ill ;i ino.-i dai'iiiii' iiuinner." 
 
 The uiituil uiiale silualioii of his vessel^ f()ree(l Phii)ps lo 
 I'di'ai'e his cour.-e ai'.d reluni to lMi,<ilaii(h 
 
 Tiidei' iii>t nic1 ions lo al1enip1 the i)assa_u,-e of Ice Sea, from 
 !^)( lirin,!!,' Sli'ail lo P>afrm Ba\', llie ill-faled Cool; sailed in 
 177<i, huT failetl to sail Iceyond Ie\' ( 'a"pe, whei'e he found 
 iinp(Mieti'al)le ice : h.owexcr, he reached as far as Xoi'tli ('ape 
 on 1 h(> coast of Asia. 
 
 Ma(d<eiizie, liie la>1 of 1 he eii;!i1 een1 h-cen1 ui'y (^x])loi'ei's. lel't 
 l-'oi'l ( 'hipew van. aend de-cended 1 he Mackenzie lvi\'er. a nnich 
 I;! rue r si rea ill than 1 he ( 'oppei'inine p!'e\'iou>ly di<co\ered hy 
 liearne. lie h)i!oweil the cour>e of tiie ri\er ui,lil he readied 
 an i-land. ■"where the Tide rose and fell." hut there is no cer- 
 tainty that lie reached the ocean. dd;e land exi)e(lit ions 
 w't'Vi' for u'eojiraphical di-co\'ery and not for the di-co\-ery 
 of the Xorthw'e.-t I'as^aii'e, that had occupied mariners h)r 
 so maiiN' \'ears.
 
 ■J^^*-—^ 
 
 «-e— ^ 
 
 
 "*°^< 

 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 I^arly niiiot(HnitIi ('('ntiirv: I'oss ami I'ariy, May 3, l^is;. — Objcft 
 
 of \-()yati'('. search toi' Xorlh\vi'-t I'a— ati'" 1 iiroiitih J)a\'i> Si rail 
 ainl !Xp!i)!'(' lj;i\'s ami chaiiiicls (Icsci-Hm'.I by jjafliii. -—Met iiali\'(S 
 near .McKillc 15ay. — The (lisco\-ci'y ijy lio— of the famous ('riiii- 
 son Cliff-. ~-]-!uti'i-s ].aiica,-tfr Soiiml. -Ailwaucc hai'rcd hy iiii- 
 a,a;iiiary ('rockcs' .M()un1aiii>. - - l{i'i ui-ii (jf cxjjcilition to Juiuiami. 
 - - ]^)Ucha!) ami ]'"raiikli!i Xorth Pi;lai' cxp-Mlit ion rin (.Irccnlaiid ami 
 Spit 7.1 x'rgcn. -— /)n/v,///rv/ atnl Tnni in Mau'iialcna. Jjay, Jutic ;-!, 
 JSIS. - Hcaclicfl hi,ii'h latitude of SCC :\~' X. — ( 'oui'se direeted 
 to ea<t coast of ( Ireenland. - - - ! )i~a<1 rous ha I tie with the ice. — ■ 
 Domllicd disatjled. — JIastv return to IJm'land. 
 
 As a result of tlic iiuiiiv disastrous voyages 1o the Arctic, 
 there was a lon.u' ])erio(l of iuacli\'il\' in ])olai" i'e>eai'cli, \\iileh 
 (•()ip inucd for the first sixteen year- of t he uiiieTeeut h century. 
 lntei'<st was revived. liowe\-e]'. hy the a-toundinu' iv'port 
 that ice \\'hicli had cut oil the Dani-h colonic- from ceuiununi- 
 eation with their native country fiu' centiiries. luul suddenly 
 lieeoine free, and tliat certain ( ii'eenianal whah-i's liad sailed 
 1o the >e\-entietli aiid ei^tihtieth i)ai'allei. 
 
 ddie l-)rilis!i Admiralty in, c()njuncii()U with the Council of 
 the Royal Society decideil to fit out 1 Wo ex])e( lit ions : ( )ne 
 imdc!' ( 'aptain .John hJo-s and Lieutenant Ivlward Pari-y, 
 A\'ho-e ohject Was to force a n<ii'thwe-i pa--auv thrdim'h Da'-.'is 
 Si !'a.il and to ex])li)re the lia\'- and chaniU'U ije-ei-ihed 1 )y 
 Pailin at \\v head of lic' imm(ai-e hay that hear- hi- name, 
 ddie -ecoud ('XjM'ilii ion und,er P)Ucha!i and Pratdvlin wa- to 
 du'i'C ii- cour-e li\' wa\' of C.reenhiiid and, Soil /hei'o( ti 
 in. -"aivh of the l^)le, and make it., wa.v ihreHiuh JJehrinir 
 S1 rail Mut to the J'acitic. 
 
 •2'.)
 
 :;(l 
 
 THE 'rl;i:AT WlflTK \()l!JJf 
 
 The four sliiji^ wci'c the l)c>t cfiuipijcil foi' Arclic rcscai'C'h 
 thai had cN'ci' hccu -cut out from I'>n,ii,'huiih and the coiuniaud- 
 ers were iii>1ru(icd 1o (•oH( d ah ])o--h)h" infonualion that 
 would ])roinol<' .-ciculhic IvHowIimI^c in iialui'al hi-toi'v, ,sj.(('!- 
 ou'v, inci corolou'V. aud astronomy a.- lo llic s])ccial |)hcnomciia 
 (.■.\i-lin<i' ill hiiih uorlhcrn hititudc<. 
 
 ( )u the ;)d of May. L'^1S. the t\vo cxjitMhtion- ])arl{'d 
 com])an\' hi l>ra>>a Sound, Shclhuid, and >ahcd for thcii' 
 rc-])('cti\'c d('>lhialion.s. Tiic L^dh'lld and Ah .raiuli r. under 
 the command of I{o-s and Pai'r\', rcachctl Vv'yua! Souml on 
 t!ic 17th of June, wlicrc lhcy wciv d.ctaincd hy i!ic ice in 
 com])an\' with fort\'-iive whalers, umil the "iOlh. 'idiey made 
 oh-cr\-allon~- from the sIujI'c (jf \V\'ii'at I>iand. whicii they 
 found to he nu-placed (jn the map- 1 )y no le-< than h\'e de- 
 tirei'-. 
 
 ]*>y ^\■arpinl:: and towiim' they madj' -low i)ro,u'i'(---, nat'i'owly 
 mi--i!m' de-truction iiy the i)re--ui'e oi huire icr-fjor^. hut 
 fina!!\' makinu' l!ic open water, iliu'h mountain- were du'- 
 scri'-d on th'' north -idi' of tl!i- hay called hy IJo--. Ah'h 
 \-illc l)ay. till' ])i-i'cipi<'e- \'aryin,L;; in height from ono thi_u;s;]nd 
 tot wo t hoir-aiid feet . 
 
 An Iv-kimo. Jolm Sadieu-e, ^^-ho acted ;c- interi)reiei' io 
 the expedition, wi-nt a-hore and hi'ouiiht l^ack wiili him a 
 do/.en or moi'e nati\'e-. who were iiiu^'h enUa'taine<l I ly i ht^ 
 ho--piiahty proxided foi' ihem h\- the .-hip'- com])ai!>'. After 
 partakiuLi' of t^a ;inil hi-cuit-. a dancr wa- held on ilie (leek, 
 and nf ihi- ('aptain lio-^ ui\;-s au amu-inu' d:--cr;pt!on : — 
 
 ■' Sache'.i-f'.- niii'lh and joy exccrileii aii hound- : and with 
 a uoi )d-hinnori'd ohiciou-ne--. in-tiijcd hy ilie impiirtaiit 
 dr-'inction v.'!;ich hi- -uoi-rior l^nowlfdov now ^[Wr kin', hf 
 ]i''i'i( cnu'd \\if (liiicf di' m;i-'<-r i)f c'-'^inon;''-. An l.-kinao 
 \h( ', Ml :! k;iii ,^n 1!!" di i-k iif on'' (^i' !!. M. >liip- in i! '• iry 
 -m;.- iif ' I i'''"n!:i"i h \c;!- an olh-i- -i )•!!( \',-!i:ii new. hu' \;i-h 
 h.m-' if '■"uld n'lt iia\'.' i lU'if u'lned i:i- funciion- in a maimer
 
 noss AX J) I'AirRV ^1 
 
 more u])])ro])riat('. It did not bcloii,^; even to Xash to com- 
 bine in iiis own ])ei>on, lilce .luck, the discordant C|ualifications 
 (jf seaman, intci'preter, (b'aut^'htsman, and master of cere- 
 monies to a b:Ul, with th(jse of an active fishei' of seals and a 
 hnnter (jf white bears. A daughter of tlie Danish resident, 
 {!)>' an i']sl<imo woman,) about eighteen N'cars of age, and 
 by far the be-t looking of the half-caste gr(jup, was the ob- 
 ject of .lack's ])ai'iiculai' attentions : which being observed 
 b\' one of our ofhci'rs, he gave him a lady's shawl, ornamented 
 vnth si)aii.u;les, a- an offei'ing for lu>r acceptance. lie pre- 
 sented it in a most rc-j^ectful and not ungi'aceful maimer to 
 tlie dam-el, vrho bashfull\' to(.)k a ])''\vter I'ing from her finger 
 and ga\-e it to him in return, rewai'ding him, at the stune time, 
 with at) elofiuent smile, whicli could leave no doubt on our 
 Eskimo's mind that he had made an impression on her 
 heart." 
 
 Xear f 'ajie Dudley Digues a curious c(jndition of the ice 
 was noteil b\' (';ii)t;un Pioss :is follows: — 
 
 "\\'e have discovered that the sn(jw on the face of the 
 cliffs ])re>ents an appeai'ance both novel and interesting, 
 b)(-iug a])j)arently -lained or covereil ] iv >om( substan(;e which 
 gave it a dee]) crimson color. Idii- -n.-jw was penetrateil iu 
 ]nan\' ])laces to a depth of ten oi' twelve feet by the c(jloring 
 matter." 
 
 b'a--ing Smith and Jones Soimd. I{o--s reuclu'd the f'U- 
 trance df Laiica-ter Soiuid by the la-t of Augu>t. ■'()n. the 
 :]l>t," he \\'riie-, "we di.~''(/\-ei'e(l, lor the first time, that the 
 land exteiiderl fj-om the -outh two-thirds acro-s this a])])a!'ent 
 St!':iit. (ib-cui'ed it- real figure. Dui'ingthe d;iy nmch intere.-t 
 was excit(-d on board by the a])])eai-ance of tlie Strait. The 
 general ojjinion. liovrevei'. w;i- that it w;t-; (jnly an inlet. The 
 land \\';i- i);irti:dly -■■en extendinu; acro-^ : tlie yellow -ky 
 Wa- l)efce])tible. At a little before four o'clock A.M.. the l:snd 
 was s(-en at tine bottom of the inlet b\- the ofhcers of t he watch,
 
 Tin: (;i:i:Ar wnrri-: xoinii 
 
 l)iit Ix'l'orc I ix^A oil <lccl<. a sjiacc o\ al)()Ul <('\-('ii dc.unM's of lli{> 
 (•oiii])ass was ol)si'Ui'('(M)y 1 he lo^u,'. Tlu'laiid wiiii'h I ihcusaw 
 A\as a hi,L!,h I'id^c of inounlaiiis cxlciid'm.i;,' (lifcdly across llu> 
 bolloni of the iuld. ^Idiis chain aj)})('ai'('(l cx1 1'cnuay liifi'h in 
 the ccnl I'c. Ahlioii!i,h a |)assa.u;(> in ihis (lir(>ctioii appcai'cd 
 lu'pclcss, 1 dclcrmincd 1o explore it conii)let(dy. 1 lliei'efoi'e 
 c<.)iiliinu'd all r-ail. Air. Be\"ei'ly, the sin;i;,'eon, who was the 
 most san^uiuine, went n]) to tlie crow's nest, and at twel\-o 
 reported to me that !)ef(jre it became thick he had se(ai the; 
 land aci'oss the bay, exce])t for a ^'ery short spacc\ At three, I 
 went on dcrk ; it c()m])letely cleared for ten minntes, when 
 I distinctly saw land around the !)ottom of the ba\', forminiz; 
 a ch,ain of mountains comiected with those which extended 
 alouii the north and south side. This land a])])eai'e(l to bo 
 at the distance of ei,^ht leaa:ues, and AFr. Lewis, the mastia', 
 and James IIai,u\ leadin.u man, beiii^- s<'nt for, they took its 
 Ix'ariniis, which wrvc in^erted in the lou;. At this moment 
 I also saw a contiimitx' of ice at the distance of se\-en miles, 
 (>xtendin,u; fi'om one side of ih.e bay to the other, between th(> 
 neare>t cape to the north, which T namedi aftei' Sir ( leor.^e 
 A\'ai'renden, and 1 hat to t !i" >outh. which wa< named aftei' \'is- 
 count ( 'astlerea^h. Tlu" mountains, which oc(aipied the 
 centre, in a_ north and south direction, wei'e named ('rocker's 
 ]\b)initain<. after tlie Seci'etary to the Admii'alty." 
 
 ddie much-di-puted ""('I'Dcker Mountain-" brouiiht the 
 na\'iL;'at or i'iiliciijc an.d di^ci'edit upon his return to bn,i!:land. 
 The I'einrii \\';iv di'cided upon on ( tctober L that date brim:; 
 the liiinl to whieli !ii- in-^t I'nd ions ])e!'mitted ('aptain boss 
 to r( niani m m)r\ hei'n ];ii ii udes. 
 
 Alilmu^ili l!ie e\t riordinai'y blumlci' co<t Capt.ain lioss 
 ivput :ii i! Ill :i!iil till' eoniidence of hi- friend-, he had ne\'ei'- 
 theli-.-^ rendei'i-J, \-;ilii;d)le addition to Ai'ebic knowledge: his 
 scieiMiiie ni i-ir\";!i io!i- had been uni'emil 1 1nu' ;ind ;iccurate. 
 He ii;,d in;ipOed bie we-1 eM:i-I of ]):i\i- Str.ait, had advanced
 
 ('APiArv .Idiix Pi(is>. Pi.X,
 
 nOSS AND PARRY 3o 
 
 through Baffin Bay, thereby proving the chiims of that fa- 
 jiiouri old mariner, and liad been the first to meet the Eskimos 
 of th(> far north, who were to render such valuable assist- 
 ance to future^ ex])lor(n's. 
 
 Th{> ])rogress of the Dorothea and the Trent under the re- 
 s])(H'tive commands of Captain David Buchan and Lieu- 
 tenant-Conunander John Franklin (later Sir John Franklin) 
 v.'as delayed by fog and storm until tlu>y sighted Clierie Island, 
 kititude 74° 33' X., and longitude 17° 40' E., famous for its 
 herds of walruses frcjui which the AIuscov}^ C'om])any had 
 dei'iv(Hl nnich ])rofit by s(mding ships to the island for oil, the 
 cvcw captuiving as many as a thousand animals in the course 
 of six or seven hours. 
 
 The ships now encountcnxvl small floes and huge masses of 
 ice, which augUMMited the difficulties of ])rogress, and this 
 Lieutenant Beechey, the clever artist and interesting nar- 
 rator of th(> voyage, describes as follows : — 
 
 " There was, l)esides, on the occasion an additional motive 
 for r(Mnaining u]i ; very few of us had ever seen the sun at 
 midnight, and this night happcniing to be particularly dis- 
 torted by I'efraction, and swe(^])ing majc^stically along the 
 northern horizon, it was the ol)ject of im])osing grand(>ur, 
 wliicli ri\'et(Hl to tlu^ deck some of our crew, who would per- 
 ha])s have l)ehel(l with indifference the less imposing effect of 
 tlie icebergs ; or it might hav(^ bcnni a coml)ination of both 
 thes(^ ])henomena ; for it cannot b(> (kuiied that tlu^ novelty oc- 
 casioiunl by the fioating masses was materially heightened by 
 the singular effcH't |)roduc(Ml byth(M'(M'>' low altitude at which 
 the sun cast his h(>rv bivuns ov(M' t\w icy surface of tlu^ sc^a. 
 
 " ddie rays wer(" too oblitiuf^ to illuminat(^ more than the 
 iiie(|uahties of the floes, and falling thus ])a.rtially on the 
 gi'otesciue sluqx's, (utlier really assuincnl l)y the ice or dis- 
 toiied by the unc^iual refi'action of the atniosjjhei'c. so l)e- 
 tra\'ed tlie imagination that it recjuired no gi'eat exertion of
 
 :U 
 
 TlIK CHEAT WliriK XOIiTU 
 
 fancy to trace in \'ari()us dirccticjns aiT'liitcetural ('dificfs, 
 ,uri)tt().-. and caws here and there ohttering as it' with ])rc- 
 ci(jus metals. So ticnerally, indeed, was tlie dec('])t!on ad- 
 mitted, ihat. in (Hrectin,^ the I'fjute of the vessel from al(jft, 
 we for a wliile de\'iated ft'om (jur nautical ])hras('olo<iy. and 
 .-ha])ed our cou!'.-e for a church, a tower, a hridtic o!' sonie 
 .-imiiar structure, in.-tead of for hinu])- of ice, which were 
 u.-uall\' de>i,u,nated hy le,-- <'leo-;int a])j)('llatioi!-. 
 
 "Afier >iu'htin,L;; the M)Uthei'ii ])romonlor\' of S|dl zlx'r.u'en. 
 the two -^hip- wei'e ])arte(l in a se\-e]-e ,u.-ale. The >now fell 
 in hea\'y -liowers. and -e\'e!'al ton-" ^v<■i:^■ht of ice acciunu- 
 lated ahout l!;(- side,- (jf the l)riu; ihe Tr( n! and formed, n. 
 (•()mj)l('te ca.-inii: to the |)lank<, which -ecured ;ui additional 
 layer at each phmii-e ol the \-es-el. So u'l'f'ut. indee(|. \\-;t> the 
 accunniiation ahout the how.-, that we were ohli'j.-eil to cut 
 it away re])eatedily with a.xe- to relie\-e tlie hoW'-prii fi'om 
 tlie enor.mou- wei^'lit that was attached to it, and the rojx.'S 
 wei'c so thicl<!\' c()V<'re(l with ice. that it wa- n(-c('.--ar\' to heat 
 them \vith laru'e stick- to hf'C]) them in a -late of readine>s 
 for any (-x'olution tliat nuLiht t)e rendered nece^^ary, eit lier 
 ()\' the a])])earance of ici-, to leeward or hy a cj:am:c of wind,''" 
 
 l)y the .'!d of .lime the -liio- \\'ere reunited in Maiidialena 
 l)a\', SurroundiiiLi' thi- liarliour of !'(-fuuv are liiiih moun- 
 tain- ri-inii,' ])recipii oiisly aiiout thi'ee t!iou-and feet hiii'h, 
 the (jfej) \-ailey- iilieil with inuneu.-e hed- of -now. 'J'he 
 te!i!])erat uri' i- part iculai'ly mild on l!ie we-tei'ii co;i-i of 
 .•^pit /heruen, auij in con-epuence there i- a hixury nf Aloine 
 ])lani-, Lira--e-. ;uid licJKii-. al-o of animaa life, re:;id<'ei'. 
 aiid ildck- of hird,-, >uch a- the auk, wilinck. Lmii-. cormorant.-, 
 al-i I walru-'-- .and -I'.al-. 
 
 Tlicr'' a I'e nuMiii-'iii- uiaciij'- fro!n which !im:e pieces wmiiM 
 occ;;-:( .lack/ kr' ak a\\"a\ . M '■. H.-'-'wy ,\,--^rrv ><'~^ in a iiii-t 
 iiiie:-.'--; inu wa\' 'he fall of one uf ih(-i- e.\t raoi'tluiary nut--es 
 i.f ice:—-
 
 nCClIAX AXI) F RAX KLIN oO 
 
 ''Th(^ first vras occasioned ])y the discharge of a musket at 
 alioul hah' a mile's (hstance from the u;lacier. Imme(hately 
 after tlie report of tfie iiun. a noise resembling thunder was 
 heard in the direction of the iceherg (glacier) and in a few 
 seconds mor(^ an immense ])iece broke away, and fell head- 
 long into llie s(>a. Tlie crew of the launch, su])ix_)sing them- 
 selvt's beyond the reach <.)f its influence, (|uietly look(>d upon 
 thi^ scene, wlien ])i'esently a sea arose and rolled toward the 
 shore with sucii rajjidity, that the crew had not time to take 
 any ])recauti(>ns. and tlu^ boat was in consecpience washed 
 upon t!ie l.ieach, and c()m])l(>tely fillcMl by the succecMling wave. 
 As soon as tlieir astonishment had subsided, they examin(><l 
 the boat, and found h(>r so badly stove that it became neces- 
 sary to re])air her in order to return to the ship. They had 
 als(.) the curiosity to measu.re the distance th(> boat had been 
 cari'ied by tiie \vave, and f(.>und it to be ninety-six feet.'' 
 
 Describing a second avalanche he writes: — 
 
 "This occuri'cfl on a remarkably fine day, when the quiet- 
 ne>s of the bay was first interru])t(Ml by the noise of the fall- 
 imi; body. Lieutenant Franklin and myself had a])])roached 
 one of these stu])eiidous walls (>f ic(\, and wei'e end(>avoring 
 to >earc]i into the innermost recess of a dee]) cavern that was 
 neai' the foot of the glacier, when we luvird a re])ort as if of 
 a canniMi. and. tui'ning to the Cjuarlei' \vhen.ce it ])roc(-eded, 
 we j)ei'cei\'ed a.H immen>(> i)i(>ce of the front of the bei'g slid- 
 ing down from the heigfit of tw(j h.undred f(>et at least into 
 tlie sea. anid (!is])ersing the water in ever\' direction, acconi- 
 ])anied l)y a loud, grinding noise, and followc^l l)y a. quantity 
 o!' water wliicli being ])l•e^•iously lodged in the fissure-, now 
 made its e^cajx' in n.umberless small catai'acts over the from 
 of 1 he u'lacier." 
 
 So gri'al wa< tlie disturbance of the \\-atei'- liy tliis great 
 falini^- ina,s< tliat tlie l)iiri>l!i(ii was seen to be careeniiur at. 
 a distance of four iuile>. After it ln'came somewhat settled.
 
 80 
 
 Til /•; ( ; /.' KA T wiiiT /•; xo n tu 
 
 tlu'V ai)])r():i('li('(l it and found it to Ix' ncai'ly a (ivuirtcr of a 
 mile in cir(aiinf('r('nc(>. "Knowing its specific gravity and 
 making fair allowance for its inc(|Ualitic<, its weight was c(jni- 
 putiMl at 421. ()()() tons." 
 
 d"h(> slii])s left -Magdalena I^)ay. June 7. and made theii'slow 
 way thi'ougli lu'a-h ice which hc^anie tliicker and more im- 
 ])enetral)lc until a fortunate bi'ceze dis])ei-se(l it. Sailing in a 
 we>lei'ly dii'ection. they encountered se\'eral whale->hi])s. which 
 re])orted others l)e>et hy the ice in that dii'ection. ('ajjtain 
 l-Juchan change(l lus course and stood to the noilhward, ])ass- 
 ing ( 'loven ( 'lilV. an isolated rock, marking the n(.)i'thwe.-tern 
 l)oundar\' of S])ii zbergen. Xear Picd Pkiv they were sto])peil 
 hy th(> ice, and the chamiel hy which the \'e<sels had entei'cil 
 became entirely clo>ed. ddie slii]i-^ ^\•el■e h<'re henuneil in, in 
 almost the same ])osilion wliere hjafhn. Hud>on. Poole, ( 'aj)- 
 tain Phi})})-, an.d all the eai'ly voyage]',- to ihi- (piarler 
 had heeu -to|)})eil. ( )f their i)erilous situation, Lieulenaiit 
 ]^eecji(>y writes : — 
 
 "Idie ice -oon began to })re>s lieavily u})on us. and. to add 
 to oui' diiReultie,-. wv found the water so -hallow thai the 
 rock- Were })lainly di-co\-ered under the holtoms of the -hi])s. 
 It wa- im})os-ii)le. however, hy any exei'tion on our })ari. to 
 im|)i'o\-e the situation of tlie ve<-els. Idiey wei'e a- firml\' 
 fixed in till' ice a- if liiey had foi'nied pari of the |);ick. and 
 Wf could only hope that the curr('!il would not ilrifl them into 
 .-till -hallower waiei', ;ind damage ihem a<i'ain-l the u'ronnd." 
 
 Il w;;- now fiiund nece--;u'y to attach the -hi})- to (Idc- 1 ly 
 ice-;nichol'-. which \\';i- dniiewilli cou-iderahle exertion. 
 
 T.'d^iim- ad'\';tlil ;iLl'e of ;i hi-c.^k in t he ice, l hey iv;ichc(l \ i i^c] 
 
 .'^;in.L!,' ;itM)ii; .liinc "Js. whct'c the crrw Were f'lrtunalc enough 
 1m -cciirc fiii'iy reindeer ;ind plcniy of ejilcr-duck-. 
 
 'Ml ih<' tiiti 111' .hil\-. ( ';ipi:ii:i ]>iic!i;tn. tiihlinL'; i!ic ii-e con- 
 dition- f;i\-i iuf;il ih'. (jet iTiiiinci 1 ill niMkc ;i- f:ir an ;idwincc in 
 liic norlii a- [)M--iIilc. \\\ nm-l arduou- l;iiiour.- in warping
 
 BCCIIAX AXIJ FIIAXKLIX 
 
 ;ui(l 1r;i.ckin<i, clc, he ;i1t;iinc(l ;i latitude of <S()° ol' X., but, 
 thouiih attached to floes, he found himself hein^' carried to 
 the southward li\' the current. On the loth and Kith of Jul}', 
 hoth ships suffered considerable ice ])ressure. The nine days 
 followin.u', the cr(-\v \V()rked ni,u,'ht and day to free the shi])S 
 and jiet into o])en water. 
 
 Ilavinti' ,<ii\'en the ice a fair trial and ])roved it unna\'i^-al)le, 
 J^uchan tui'ueil his attention toward the ea>tern coast of 
 (ireeiiland, intendin.u', if it ])roved ini])eneti'al)le there, to 
 round the south ca]:»e of S])itzher<i;en and atteni]n to make an 
 advan.ce between that island and Nova Zembla. A terrific 
 ji'ale struck them the 3()th of July, wliicli brouji;ht down tlu; 
 ic(^ U])on theni and thi'eatened thei]' immediate destructiijn. 
 Of this encounter Lieutenant Beechc}' gives a mo>t \'ivid 
 desci'iption : — 
 
 "In oi'der to avert the effects of this as much as ])ossibl(\ 
 a cable was cut up into thir1\' feet lengths, and these, with 
 j)lales of iron four feet sfpun'e, which had been su])]jlied to 
 us as fend(>!'s. together with some walrus hides, were hung 
 round the \'es>els, es])ecially about the bows. ddie masts, 
 at the same time, were secur(-d with a<lditional rojx's, and 
 the hatches were battened and nailed down, l^y the time 
 these ])recaiitions had been taken, our a])pi'()ach to the 
 breakei's only left u-< tb.e alternati\-e of either' ])ei-mitting the 
 shi])s to be drifted bi'oadside against the ice. and >o to take 
 their chance, or of endea\'o!'iiu2: to force fairly into it by 
 ])Ulling bef()i'e the wind. At length, the ho])eless -tate of a 
 \-es>el i)laced i)roadside again-^t so foi'midable a body became 
 a])pai'ent to all, and we I'esoh'ed to attem])t the lattei' ex- 
 ])e<lii'nt ." 
 
 Jjcecliey, in docrlbing the aj^iialling scen(\ contimies: — 
 
 " Xo langUMLic. I am coi!\-iuced, can con\'ey an ade(|ua1e 
 ide:i d!' ihc Icrrific t^Tamleu!' of ihe effecl now l)i'oduce(l by 
 the c()lli-i()n of the ice and the 1 emjje-l uou-- ocean. The -cm.
 
 ■ >>i 
 
 THE CHEAT WHITE yOltTU 
 
 \-iol('nTl>' a.uilat('<l aiul rolling it- niounlaiiKjus waM's a<raiii.-t 
 ail ()i)])(),-iii,ii' i)()ily. i< at all liiiic- a >ul)liin(' and awful >i;z'lit : 
 hill when, in afldilion. it (■ii(M)untcr> ininicn.-c masses, which 
 it ha< si'i ill motion with a \'i()lcncc cijual to its (;wn, its 
 cticet i> ])r()<hu'iou--l\' inei'ca-c<h At one iiKiniciit it !Mif>ir^ 
 upon thc-c ic\' iVa.u-mtiits and hui'ics tlicni many I'cct be- 
 neath its wave, and the next, as tlie l)Uoyancy of the de- 
 ].M'c-,-ed hody >tru,<j.ij.!es f(jr i'( a-cen(hinc\'. the \\'aler ru-lie- in 
 toamin,u' cataract- o\'ei' the ('d^'e-, wliile e\'ery in(n\ddual ma,->, 
 rockinu' and laborinu,' in its hed, ,aTind.< a.;:'ain,-t and contends 
 witii it- oppijnent. until one is (-ither -])lit with the -hock or 
 ui)!iea\'ed uj)on the -urface of the other. Xor i- iiii< colii-iou 
 confined to any ])arlicular >])ot ; it i> li'oinu' on as far as the 
 .-i,u'ht can I'cach : and when from tin- con\'ul-i\'e -c(-ne lidow, 
 the (-ye i^ lurned 1o the exi raoi'dinary aj)i)earaiic(' of i he 
 hliiik in the -!vy al)(j\'e, where the mmatura! cleariie>.- of a 
 calm and >il\-ei'\' atmo-])here ])re>cnt< it-( If, houia'a-d 1)\' a dai'l-:, 
 liarii iiii'' of -tormy cloud-, >uch as ti;i- momi'iii lowereil (,\'ci- 
 our nia>l-. a- if to mar!-: the coidines within which the (■tforls 
 of man would he of no a\'ail, llie reader may imagine the -en- 
 .-ation oi' ;iwr whicli mu-1 acconi])any that oi' uraiidcui' in the 
 mindi of ihe ochold(-r." And he conlinues: '"li' e\'er that 
 foi'iiiiidc of -(^amen wa- l'airl\' lri(d. il wa- a--urei!ly not 
 ic-~ -o on ihi- occa-ion : and 1 will nol conceal the prid,c ! felt 
 in wii nf--iiiu- the hoM and d('ci-i\-e tone in whirh the ord'-rs 
 wi'i-c i--ucd h'y 1 he c: ;m 111 audi i' 1 he ])rc-em ( ';i])1 aiii Sir John 
 Id'aiikiiii. of our linlc \-('--cl, and llie ])romp1 il udi' ami 
 -!• adili''-- wi'h whii'h liie\' were executed ii\' the ci'cw.'" 
 
 ;l'idil\- aJMiroached the 
 
 lUi-rou- Wa 
 
 icr, ('ach pci'-on in-' iiicl i\-ely -cciu'eil hi- owai hold, aicl. wii h 
 hi- cyi-- ii\i-d u])on * he ma-t-, awaited in hreathie-- anxiety 
 the nioiiient oi eo!icu--!on. "It -lion ari'i\'ed: the ic-j^- 
 
 T : I ." ■ , c'H 1 ilCi' her Wa \' t hfi lUuh 1 !m' hlilM !''e. came in x'ii ilent 
 
 coniaci with the main i)(jdi\-. In an in-lant we all lo-t oiir
 
 nrCIIAN AND FRANKLIN 
 
 30 
 
 foolin.U-; the musts IxMit with the iin])('tus, and the cracking 
 timlx'i's tVoin below l)('s])()k(' a ])i'essur(> whicli was cak'ulatccl 
 to awala'ii our serious ai)])rehensions. 'V\iv v(\ssel shiji-<>;ere(l 
 luider iIk^ siioek, and for a moment scH'med to recoil ; but 
 the n(>.\t ^va^(\, curlinu,' u]) \md(n- her eoimter, (h'ove lier 
 about liei' own length within the mar<2,in of the ice, where 
 she !j,a\"(^ one I'oll, and was immediately thrown ])roa(lside 
 to the wind by the succcHHling wave, which Ix^at furiously 
 a^'ainst \\vy stern, and brought her lee si(l(^ in contact with 
 the main bod}', hnudnp; her weathcn- side (\\])os(xl at the same 
 time to a ])i(H'e of ice about twice hei' own dimc^ision.s. This 
 imfortun.ale occmMXMice })revented tlu^ vessel ])en(>tratinp; suf- 
 ficiently far into the ice to esca])e the effect of tlu^ g;de, and 
 ])lac(Ml liei' in a situation whei'e sh(^ was assaiUxl on all sid(^s 
 by battering-rams, if 1 may use the ex]^r(\'^si()n, evc^y one of 
 which contested tlu^ small s])ace which sh(> ()ccu])ied, and 
 (l(\dt such uurel(Miting blows, tliat there appcnu'ed to be 
 scai'cel\' any i)ossibility of saving her fi'om h)un(lering. 
 Literally tossixl fi-om ])iec(> to ])iece. we had nothing left but 
 ))atieiu!y abide tlie issu(> ; h)r we could scai'cely ke(>]) our 
 leet , nmch less render any assistance to the ^•essel. The 
 motion. iudiM-d, was so gri>at, that the shiji's bell, which, in 
 the hea\-iesl gale of wind, had ne\'er struck of itself, now 
 tolled so continually, thai it w;is ordered to be muflle(l. h)r 
 th(> |)ur])o-e of escai)ing ttie nn])leasant association it was 
 calculateil to ps'oducc. 
 
 ■'In anticiiKit ion of the worst, we detiM'inined to attem])t 
 ])lacing the launch ui)on the ice mider the lee, and hun'i(>d 
 into her such, provisions and stores as could a.t the moment 
 b(> got. ;it. Sei'ious doubts wei'e reasonably entertained 
 of lln> bo;it being able to \\\'v among the coni'used mas> by 
 which V\'(> wei'e encom]);i-sed ; yet as this ai)])e:n'ed to !)(■ oui' 
 !>n!y I'C'fuge, we chrng to it with all the eagerness of a l;ist 
 resource."
 
 THE <;REAr winri-: soirni 
 
 II \va> onl}' 1()() ('\'i(l('iit That >h(' could not lon,<r sur\iv(' tlio 
 crilical ])()-ilio!i in which she \va> ])hicc(l aiul that the only 
 sah'atiou lay in penetratinii' still farther int(j the ice. To 
 this end. more sail was s]>rea(l, and, with the addecl ])ower, 
 siie I'i^'hted hei'>elf, s])lit a small field of ice, fourteen feet in 
 thickness, and effected a ])assa<i-e for herself between tlie 
 ])ieces. On the <2;ale al)atin,ii. both shi])s reached the o])en sea, 
 hut were ,<i'reatly disabled, the Dorothea in a foundering- con- 
 dition. In this useless state they made ior Fair Haven, 
 in S])itzber(i'en, where they underwcnit necessar}- re])aii's. 
 Lieutenant J'"ranklin ur<2.T'ntly rer|uested to be allowed, to 
 return Xo the intere-tin<i' (jue.-t which the-y had been obliu'eil 
 to abandon, but thi< bein,<2; ini])o><il)le. owin.u' to the >hattei'ed 
 condition of tlie >hi]")s. the exjjedition \)\\X to >ea the end of 
 Ausiu-t and reached En<i;land about the mi<ldle of October, 
 1S18.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 1S19-1S27: Parry's first voyage. — Object, to survey Lancaster 
 Sound and pro\-e tlu; nou-exist(Mice of Crocker ?vIountains. — 
 Discov(My of new lamls. — Parry Plands. — Attains longitude 
 110^ \\'., tlierehy winning tlie bounty of five thousand pounds 
 offered l)y Parliament. — A\'int(a-s near Melvill(> Island. — Second 
 voyage. — Ships IIi cUi and /''"/■//. — Pxaniines Duke of York Pay 
 and I''rozen ►"^trait of ISIiddleton. — A\'inters off Lyon Lilet. — 
 Sledge journeys. — Object, to make Xorl Invest l'assag(> rid Prince 
 Regent Inlet. — Pi^acluMl Port P^owen. — Ten nujnths' impris- 
 onment. — Destruction of the Funj. — Ila.-^ty I'cturn to Lngland. 
 I''ourth voyage. — Purpose to I'each the Pole via Spitzbei-gen 
 with sledg(> boats owv ice. — Ihcla as transport. — Parr^-'s 
 farthest, 82° 45' X., reached .Iun(> 23. 1S27. 
 
 TtiE priiicii)al object of Lictitenant W. E. Parry's first 
 voyage under tlu^ tlirc^ction of tlic British Admiralty was 
 to ptii'sue the survey of Lancaster Sound, so abruptly dis- 
 continu(>d l)y ('a])tain Ross the ])re\'ious year, and d(M'ide 
 the ])roba!)ility of a nortlnvest ])assag(^ in that direction, thus 
 settling the iunch-(lis])ute(l (jiiestion of the (>xistenc(^ of the 
 '■('rocker ]\Iotuitains.'' whicli Parr>'. who had a('coni])ani(>d 
 Pioss, declared from the first 1o ha\'e been an (xailar illusion, 
 Shotild Lancaster Sound not ])rove na\"igabl(\ Snuth and 
 Jon(>s sounds were to be explored. 
 
 'idle Ihchi, :)7.~i tons, and \\\^' (ri'i/x r, ISO Ions, wei-e strength- 
 (Mied an<l ])ro\-i.-ion.ed foi' two years. Sailing fi'om th(> 
 d'hanies May 11. ISP), they reached Davi,^ Sti'ait th(> la>t 
 \\'eek in ,lun(\ and luM'e ex])erienced a good (li>al of .annoyance 
 from ice, thi'ough. which th(>\' made a slow and difrHadt 
 
 41
 
 42 
 
 TllK a HEAT Willi E yoETII 
 
 ]):i--;mv l)y }ica\'iii,ii' inul wjiipiim'. rcacliinti: Possis-ioii Bay 
 a iniiiiTli later. I pnii laiii liii'i the men Vv'crc not a Utile sur- 
 pri-cil to >(■!• llicii' own toot])riiit> of the ])r('vioiis year: a fox, 
 a fa\Tii. -onic I'inu' fiowci'-. ami -iiow-hniitinu's w^'i'c >c(*n. 
 al-o a 1)('-". 4'ufts and ,uroui!(l ])lants ,urc\v in coiisidci-al)!!' 
 ai.uiK lance w-hcrcx'cr tlicrc was moisture. 
 
 l'roc('(M!ina: on their \'oya,iie, they readied, by Au,u'u>t 4, 
 lonu-itude Sti' ."))»' \\.. tlu('(' deiii^-es to th(- we.-tward (jf 
 Avhere laml had lieen laid down Ity ('a])tain \\o>>. rassin,a; 
 throimh liari'ow St I'ait . tiicy found ice to >uch an extent 
 nortii of heo])olil I.-iand thai Pari'y dieterniineil to sha])e his 
 cour-c to the >out!iWard anil ex])lore the 1»(-autitul slieet of 
 water to wide!! he i:a\'e the name of Pie,u'ent Iidet. 
 
 4d:e com])a-> nowl'ecame u.-ele-<. owinu' to the local at- 
 traction, and the 1iiin!ac!e< were di-cafded. llax'inu' jienr- 
 ti'aled one liundredi a.nd tweiit}' mi!(-s and iiaxdim' ui\'en tiie 
 fart!:e.-t point of laiid^ liie n.anie of ( 'a])e Katcr. it \'.'a- foiuid 
 necc.-.-ary to iviui'u to the southwal'di or he caught in the ice. 
 Skirting' tl:e nortli .-hore of liai'row Strait, they latei' ])a--ed 
 two lar'ie o])cninu's. to tiie first of w!:ieh Pari'X' ^lU'e the 
 name ni' WVuinLi't on ( 'hanii''!. al-o naminu' A'arious eaijcs 
 and inlet-, a- lie ])a,-~'Ml thenn liatham. I'ai'lo^x', ( 'ornwallis, 
 l)(iwcn. h')>';tMi .\[a!t in. ( d'if!it h. Lov.lhcr. Ikithui--! . and ot her>. 
 
 \a\'i'j.;il io!i now liecame extremely diilicult, owinu' to 
 ll;icl< fnx-. hut nt it wit h-l andiiiii man>' o! ^-tach- t hey reach(-il 
 the cd.'i-i (if an i-land iar'ivr tlian any yet disco\'ei'ed, which 
 they c,,h-d Melvihe Mand. and hy t!ie !th of Se]>temher 
 l.iei,' eiaaiii i'ar!'y \'.'a- alile to mal>;e the ioylul amiounccmeiu 
 iM hi- er,-\v li.at. ha^in- [la-ed l(in-!tn<le IIU' W .. they 
 \'/' re el;! ii 'e, I 1 , , - n,. rew a rd I if h\'e t !iou-and jx lund- promi>e(l 
 \>y I'a' iiaiir'ni t'l the fir-t -hip'- cumpany which should reach 
 
 4''i c'ii^ra'' tlielr -uce , thex- iia\'e tlic uatue of ( 'a])e 
 
 ;)MUnl\' to the 'a!'iiie-t necj^ of land .-iuiited in the di.-tance.
 
 FA!;JiY's fIj';st \'()YA(^k 4;] 
 
 I'^vcry cfl'oil was now made lo ])usli forward in the li(j])c of 
 r('achin,ii,- lonj2,itu(lc I'-Hf \\ ., tlio'coy scciirina,' the .-ccond rc- 
 wai'd licld (jut by xhv <i'ov('rnni('nt. They liad ])rop,r(>ss('d 
 Init a short distance when, to tluar great disa])])ointrncnt, 
 farther advance became impossible by reason of an ini])en(^- 
 irable barrier of ice. 
 
 Tlie ap])roach of win.t(M' d(H'i(le(l Lieutenant Pai'ry to seek 
 the slielt(M- near Aleh-ille Island and there prepare for the 
 lonu; winter months. 
 
 To \\ic f^'rou]) of isUmds in tlie vicinity of whicli he had taken 
 refuge, \w gax'e th(^ name of (ieorgian Ishuids, in honour oi 
 His ^Majesty, King (leorge 111, l_)ut later the name was 
 changed to Parr}' Islands. 
 
 Knowing well ihat good spirits meant good health in the 
 tedious ^\'iuter months. Lieutenant Pany established a school 
 f(jr his men, as well as the diversicjn of a news])a])er, and th(> 
 shi])'s crev,' acted several ])lays, which were most enthusiasti- 
 cally received. Li s])ite of enforceil exercise and other meth- 
 ods for kc('])ing in good ])liysical condition, scur\'v showed 
 itself amongthe crew, and such antiscorbut ics as lemon ,iuic(^, 
 ])ickle>, mustard, cress, and s])ruce-beer ^\'ere ])ut into i'e(|ui- 
 sitioii. J.atei'. >]i()W-blindne<s afiiict(-d some of the men. but 
 wa> rerH>\-ed by washes and the wearing (jf black ci'ape before 
 the eyes. 
 
 As the sjji'ing a])pi'oached, the slii])s were made r(^ady for 
 the first oi)])or1unily to esc;i])e fi'om the ice, which, howe\'er, 
 remaine<l im])eriet rabk'. 
 
 On the b^t of June an excur-ion wa- nuule acro.-s r\re!\il!(i 
 L-land by Lieutenant Pai'ry ;uid others, carrying i)r()\'i>ions 
 for thi'tM- \\'eek>. They found such i)arls of tiic gi'ound as 
 ^\'(■I•e fi'ec i'rom snow c(.)\'ered with dwarf willov,-, -oi'i'el. aiid 
 ])o])])\'. abo mos< and saxifrau'c. A few ducks and i)1;!i'migan 
 were killed. Lpon hi^ I'eturn to the shij) the mi'Mle (;f 
 June, (.'a[)tain Larry ordered his men to make dail\' excur>ions
 
 44 
 
 77//; am-: AT white soirrn 
 
 ;)l'tcr .-oi'i'cl, A\iiicli th('\' ])r()cui'('(l iii larfic (iii;nititi(\< and 
 UicailN' enjoyed. ( )n llie we>1ei'!i side of ihe island at Bush- 
 maiTs ( 'o\-e, in Liddon's (lull', ihey found "one of llie pleas- 
 ante>1 and ni(js1 liahiladie >])o1s we had yv\ seen in the Ai'ctic 
 re_uions. the \-e<i('tat ion hein.<i- nioi'c adundant and f(jrA\'ard 
 than in an\- other ])lace, and the situation sheltered and fa\'or- 
 ai)le foi' U'aine.'" 
 
 ddiouuh channels and ))Oo!s A\-ere evei'vwhcre forniin<i', it 
 A\'as ]\(>\ until the ,-ec(jnd of Au,u'ust that the <i;reat nia-s (ji ice 
 di'oke u]) and floated out. The ,-hi]) now made for the o])eit 
 w;i.ier; hut after a short advance, in s])ite of e\'ery eifort, tney 
 found tli('rn.-eh-es once ni(jre ])rev('nted hy the ini])enetral)le 
 hai'rier of ic(- from makin.i:; their wa}' \\ est ward. There ^(■enled 
 no altei'nati\'e lait a return lujineward, and after takin,i!,- 
 certain additional ohservations of the two coasts extendin<i; 
 alon,^■ Pjarrow Strait, they set sail for hinu'land. 
 
 A wai'Ui welcome a\\'aite(l the 'iariiiK na\u,aators, who had 
 reached a lonuitude u'reatei' by mor(' than Ml)" than any otli(-r 
 ex])loi'er : who had di-co\'ered man\' new hauls, i-laiids, and 
 l)a\'-: had e-tahli-hed 1 he fact of a ])olar ,--ea nort h of Amei'lca ; 
 and had win1e!'e(l >ucce--full\' in tlie Arctic, lii'in,uin,2,' hack his 
 crew in uood condition. 
 
 Parr\''- unpi'f'cedent ed >ucce-.< and the (-nlhu-ia-m for 
 Ardie exploi'iit ion throughout hinuland decided the !-)rili-h 
 Adiuirahx' lo >('\[i[ out a si'C()nd e\])e(lii ion to allempt a 
 p;i--ai.',e in a lowei' latitude than that of Melville h-land. 
 The llii-lii ;ind llii' /■'"/■// wei'e m;ume(l and ])i'o\'i.-ioned and 
 p;!l aiider the eonimand of ('aplain I'ari'y and Lieulenant. 
 I .vwii. win i-c 1 r;i \'el- in Tripoli, Mourzouk, ;ind ol hei' ],art - ol 
 iiorihei'ii .\i'ri(';i ii;i(l ;ilread\' hrouuhl him coii-idera1 ion and 
 -oiiic diLO'ec of r( Mown. The tran-])or1 Sdntiliis wa- lo 
 :ii'i-i imp;! ii\" llie -hip- ;i- tar a- llie ice. ;ind 1r;in--hip extra 
 pi'i I'/i-ioii- ;iud -I ocf; ;i- -odii ;i- I'ooni eoiild he jound for 1 hem. 
 
 d"iic .-iiio- -;i ifd I'l'Dni 111'- Xol'e on the Slli of AlaW 1 S_M ,
 
 PAimv's sEco.xD voyA(;E 45 
 
 atul hy tlu^ 2(1 of July wore at the mouth of Hudson 
 Strait, having ]7art(Hl with the Xantilas tlie i)r('viou.s day. 
 lecheries in foi'niidablo numbers had ah'eady be(>n encountercMl, 
 and the desohite coiuhtion of th(> shores, the naked rocks, the 
 snow-covered vaUeys, and tlie thick fogs encountertnl wer(> 
 anything but (Micouraging. 
 
 Progrc^ss was now ukuU' through verj' hea\'y fioes^ and l)e- 
 twcMMi strong curnnits, edches, and icebergs tli(>y were nuMuiced 
 by serious (huig(>r for mon^ than ten days. Whil(> (>mbay(Ml 
 in the ice, th(\v sight(Ml near Resolution Island thre(^ strange 
 shi})s also fast in the ice. These th(\y later managed to join, 
 and found them to be Hudson Bay Com]iany's tradca's, t\\v 
 Prince oj Wclc^Ahi.' Eddijdone, and the Lerr/ M'dl'nujton, char- 
 tercel to c()nv(\yone himdred and sixty emigrants, who intendcMl 
 scuttling on Lord Selkirk's (>stat(> at the Red Riv(M'. Of thc^se 
 ])eo])!e Lieutenant Lyon writers an inten^sting account : — 
 
 "While nearing these vess(^ls, we obs(>rved tlie settlers 
 waltzing on dcx'k for above two hours, tlu^ nuai in old-fash- 
 ioried gray jacla^ts, and the women wearing l()ng-(vu"ed mob 
 caps, like thos(^ us(m1 by Swiss ])(^asants. As \\c wei-e sur- 
 roundtMl by ice, and the thermometer was at the freezing 
 ])oiiit, it may be su])])osed that this ball'// rcrofrisco afforded 
 us much. amus(>ment." 
 
 Some days lat(M' th(\v fell in with some I'>l;imos, who came 
 out to the shijis. tlie men in tln^r kaxalvs. the wonuai in 
 theii' s])ecial "oomiaks." The nativ(\s bo:u'(led the slu])s 
 anil, sa\'s ('a])tain Lyon :- - 
 
 "It is (|uite out of my power to descrilu^ tlu> shouts, 
 yells, and laughter of the savages, or llu^ confusion AS'hich 
 (\\isl(Ml for two or three hours. Hie females w(M'e at hi->t \-('i'\' 
 s!i>', and unwilhng to come on llie ice, but bartci'ed c\('ry- 
 thing from their boal^. I'liis tiinidil>', liowever. soon wore 
 off. and th(\\', in the end, became a~ noisy and boisterous as 
 tlie men."
 
 4G THE CHEAT WHITE SORTII 
 
 "'l"li:' >n';!nti'fr> wm'c >o well pleased in our sofiety," con- 
 tinue.- ( 'a|)Tain Lyon, "■llial lliex' sii(jw(mI no wish t(j leave us, 
 and when ihe market haJ (juite eea>e(l. they hegan dancinp,' 
 and i)h;\"iiui' with ()\\v i)e()])ie. on the ice alon.ii'^ide. 
 
 "In order to anni-e our new [tcquaintanee- as irnich as 
 l)().--i';.l''. tiie iiddler w;e- >ent (jn the ice, where he iri.-tantly 
 h)und a nin-t diclio-hiful -et (jf danc('rs. (jf V\"honi >onie of the 
 weunen ke])r ])retty uood time. Their (jnly ftKure consistefl 
 in >tan!]nnu' and ju!n])inu' with all th(-ir mi,u'ht. Our musi- 
 cian. \\\\<) wa- a lively t'ellow. soon cau^u'ht the infection, anrl 
 lieuan I'Uttinu' ca])ei's al>o. Iji a >hor1 time every orie on the 
 flw!'. officer-, men. ami -avau'e-, wei'c daucinu- tou'ether. and 
 exhiliit('d o;ie of the nio>t exti'aordinary >i,u'ht- I ('\'e]- wit- 
 ne-.-ed. < 'ne of om- seiimen. of a fn-.-h. ruddy eom])lexion. 
 excited tlic admiration of all t!ie youn,u' i'ennde-. Avho juitteil 
 hi- fae(' and d;mced round h.ini whei'cver he went. The ex- 
 ei'1 ion of dancinti' -o (-xhilarnteil ilu- I-"-kimo-. that they had 
 the appi arcnce of hcinLi' hoi-tej-ou-ly dru!ik, and jdayed many 
 ext ;';h ^rd'nary pranlv-. Anion'.i' other-, it wa- ;i f;ivorite jol-;e 
 to run -l,\'!y i^'hind. the -eamem arul -houtinii' loudly in one 
 (•:ii-. to ui\'e them at tlie -aiu" time a \"ei'y -nairt -l;i]) on the 
 oth'i'. W'l.ilr looking; on. I w;e< -harp>ly scdut^d in this 
 ncuiiicr, end. of conr-e. wa- puit" -t;irlled. to the iri-f-it aiiiu-e- 
 m<n-! of l;:e k\--i Milder-. {)!;!• cool^, who Wa- a ni()-t acti\''' 
 
 al.d Un\S'i-J!''e( i iumoi'T. k(-c;!mc :-o U!'!';n a f:i\"ori1e. that (-X'e^'y 
 Olif iiirv.-d !:i- '■;;!■- -o -ound.ly ;i- to okliLl'" the ] loi i]' lUMU to 
 
 [■■■lire !ro:ii -ui'ii do!-" !■!■( CI- niar'<- of aiJin'ol ';iTion. .Vmoni;: 
 o-c-!' -po'i-, -oMii- '>\ !'■! I'i-ldnio-. rather i'ou!i:''!v' hut \\-:di 
 nK..;ii ^,!,id cui:cc\ cSciih^mM ■] (iiir ])!'op|c io wa-o-dc. ( )ne 
 mcM in oa :■! icui'i r. w'ci had 'hrowai -c'/oi^al of hi- coiiiit rynien. 
 a1U.i^:a-d aa Mffc'cf i c' a \'i'!'\" -tl'Miia make. IcU the poor -aX'ai^e 
 'A I- ■ ■!-' ■: .! ■ ;\^ 1 CO i-i r , vr^\\ no v rv i a-^/ I'-ill : \>-\ . aklioii'j.h 
 • ■•."■■!'v I c;i' -.'.'a - ia'"di'm!" a' hi:!i. !.<■ Oori' li wiih exemplary 
 LiM'id icaiio!'. Ti'r -a.cao offif r afforded u- much di\'ei'-ion
 
 VllOZEX STIlAir OF MIDDLKTOX 47 
 
 hy Icachin,!;- a hir.ti'c ])arty of wonu'ii to bow, courtosy, shake 
 hands, turn their lo(>s out, aiul ])('rl'oriu oth(>r ])ohtc acconi- 
 ])hshnicn1s; tuc whole ])arty, inastcr and pupil.-, present iii^ti; 
 the strictest gravit}'. 
 
 "Toward niidni,nht all om- men, exe(>])t tlu^ watch on deck, 
 turned into tlieir beds, and the fati(i;ued and luniii,'ry h^kiinos 
 returned to their boats to lake their su])])er, which consisted 
 of luiu'ps of raw lie>h, and blu])ber of seals, birds, enti'ails, 
 etc. ; lickin.a,- their finuci's with ^'reat zest, an<l witli kni\'es 
 or finu;ers sf'ra])in.a,' the blood and grease which ran down their 
 chins into thei;- mouths. " 
 
 j'ai'ry made an examination (jf Duke of York Bay, and the 
 201 h of August I'eache.l the Frozc^n Sti'a.it of Middleton. Two 
 da\'s later the //re/a andi Furij^ioX well into lve})iilse T^)ay, and 
 a careful examination oi the shores was made by parties of 
 olhci'rs and m(ni in IxKits. l^y tlie Mist of August they reached 
 (iiire ]>ay, which was ])acked with ice. Ijicountei'ing thick 
 fog-, northerly winds, and heavy ice-iloes, th(>y h)und that in 
 spite of evei'V exei'tion tliey were ixMug carried back to \]\o 
 spot in I'"ox Channel from wliich they had start(Ml some days 
 befui'e. irowever, ihey later made some advance an.d 
 anchoi-ed near l.yon Inlet. 
 
 I'laily in Ociobri' l he .-luilgc, oi- young ice, l)egan to form, a 
 warning of a])p/i'oaching winli r. to be folioweil shoi'tly by ihe 
 ])aiicake ice and ba\' ice, which neces-ilated finding at once 
 A\i!iler {[uarters for the ships. The southeast extremity of an 
 i-huid off L,\'ou Inlet was s(>!ect(>d, and calleil AMnter Island, 
 anil the UKjuolonous \\-inter closed in upon ll;em shortly aflei-. 
 
 The u>ual tlieati'ical di\'ersions wei'i' ]:'i-()\'ided for the 
 entertaimn(-ut (jf the crew, and ih(- " liivab '" v.'a- ])re<i-n1e(! as 
 Well a- ;ui(jth('i' succe.~-ful play. The errw took kiu.diy to 
 a <iTooI est;d;!i>iieil by the c)fhc.''r- :Uid to other form- of 
 iiiciUal and i)liy-!i-;il actix'ily d.e-imicd to fceei) tiie expcdiliou 
 in good lu'idtli and s[)ii'it-. (.'hrir-lmas wa< celebrated wilh
 
 4^ 
 
 THE CHEAT WIHTE WOUril 
 
 (■>l)cc!al ,U'()()(1 cheer, and ]ji,uli>!i r()a>t beef, wliich had been 
 kepi by bciuii' frozen, was M,'r\-e(l. as well as cranberry ])ies 
 and plum ])uddin,!j,>. The effect of the intense cold u])on cer- 
 tain of their store< is interesting' : — 
 
 "Wine froze in the bottles. P(jrt was conp;ealed into thin 
 ])ink lannna', which lay loosely, and occupied the whole 
 len.a,lh of the bottle. Wdiite wine, on the contrary, froze into 
 a solid and ])erfectly tran>])arent mass, reseniblin;^' anilu'i'."' 
 
 On the bltii of Abirch, a ])art\' under ('a])tain Lyon started 
 out to explore the land near the shi])s ; they were ])ro\'isioned 
 for three or four da\'s. but their ex])erience was uKjst mifor- 
 tunate. The cold AVas intense, their tent> at ni<i'ht aff(jrdin^ 
 little [)i'oteeTion aji'ainst the fi'ifi'htfully low teni])ei-alui'e. 
 They spent -ome time di^i!,;uin,<i' out a >now hut, which they 
 hoped Would ])ro\'e warmei', but this wa- hardily more ,-ati>- 
 lactoi'y. ddie f(dl<nviim' mornin,ti they found theniseh'cs 
 almo-t buried with snow which had drifted at ni.u'ht diu'ing 
 a fierce o'ale which now raucil. All ])ai'a])hernalia. .-ledares, 
 etc., were com])leiely bui'ied. To remain where they Avere 
 wa> a- impract ic;ible a- to mo\'e on.. ( 'ari'yini:: with them a 
 f('\\' ])ound.- of bread, -onie rum. and a s])ade, the ]);irty >et 
 out i:i the hope of reaching!,' the ships. ('apt.ain Lyon recoi'ds 
 their -uii'eriiiu- a< follow- :- — 
 
 " Xot kuowiiiU' where to u'o. We waud.ered anions hea\'y 
 hununoiL- of ice. and -ufferinu' fi'om cold. fatiii'Ui'. and anxi- 
 e1y. wet'e -oou coiuplel el\' bewih lere( 1. .■~^e\"erai of oUl' I^iryv 
 udw beuai) to exhibit -\'m])lon- of that hori'id kind of in-eii- 
 >ibilily which i- the pi'elud.e of -leep. They all ])l'ofe--ed 
 <X1 reine wiiiiimiic-< 1 () do wiiat 1 hey were told ill order to keep 
 in exi-rci-e. I'Ut none obeyed: on the contrary, they I'eeled 
 aboin like diriHiken men. ']"he iwn'- of -e\-ei'al were -e\-erely 
 fi'o-1 lii:0'|i, ;,!,ii -.o!n<' !i;;d; lor a c( lu-iderabje time lo-t -en-a- 
 1 iMii i:i 1 hi'ir lin^:e!'~ and i ne- ; yrt tiny made not 1 he -!iLdi1e-t 
 exerbiiu lo rub bne oart- affected, and e\"en di-coi;1 inued
 
 TKX MONTHS^ IMPinsoXMEST 4;t 
 
 their jiiMicral custom of warning (vicli otluM' on ol)s{'r^•in<i• a 
 discoloration of tin* sl<.in. Mi'. Palmer em])l()\'e(l the people 
 in l)uil(linu; a snow wall, ostensihly as ;i sheltei' irom the wind, 
 hilt in fact to ,i;iv(^ them exei'cise when standina,' slill must 
 ha\'e ])i'oved fatal to men in our circumstances. ^ly atten- 
 tion was exclusively dii'cM'ted t(^ S(>rgeant Si)eckman, wlio, 
 h;!\"iiiiz,' IxH'n re])eated!y warned that his nose was frozen, liad 
 ])aid no attention to it, owing to the stat(> of stui)efacti()n into 
 which he had fallen. The frost bite now extended ()\-er one 
 side of his face, which was fro/en as hard as a mask : the (eye- 
 lids wer(^ stiff and one cornei' of the u])])er li]> so drawn u]) as 
 to ex])()se thet(H'th and ti'ums. My hands l)ein,t; still wai'm, I 
 liad hai)i)iness in i'(>s1()rin,ii; circulation, after which I used all 
 my endeavoi's to keep the ])o()!' fellow in motion ; but he com- 
 ])laine(l sadly of li'iddiness and dinmess of si,t;ht, and was so 
 ^^'eak as to be unable to walk without assistance. His case 
 was so alarming' that T expected e\-ery moment h(> would lie 
 down never to ri>e again. 
 
 '■ Our ]')ros])eci now becanu^ ev(My moment moi'(> gloomy, and 
 it v.'as but too ])robable that four of our i)art\' would bcMUUible 
 to sur\-l\-e anotlier houi\ Mr. l^ilmer, howevc^r, ende-a\'oi'ed. 
 as well ;i> m\-i'lf, to chec!' the ])eople up, but it was a faint 
 aiti'mjjt, as w-' had not a >ingl(> hope to gi\'e them. I^v(M'y 
 ])iec(> ol' ice. oi' e\'en of small rocl; or stone, w.as now su])posed 
 to be the >hip-, and we liad great difhculty in p)'e\-enting t!i(> 
 men from i-unnina,- to the different objects whicli atlr.acted 
 tiieni, and conse(|iieiit ly losing theinsel\-es in tii(> drift. In 
 th!< --tate, while Mi'. Palmer was rumiing I'ound us to A\'arin 
 binisi'lf, he suddenly pitch(>d on a new b(\alen track, and as 
 exerci-e \\';is iii(li.~])en<ab!('. we determine(l on h)ll()V,'in<i.' it, 
 wlua'CMM' it might lead us. I ia\ing t ak(Mi the Sei'geant under 
 my coat, he r(co\'ei'ed a liltlc. and w'v mo\'ed onwaj'd. \\'l:cn 
 to our infinite joy w<- found that the i)atti \vi\ to tlH> ship<."' 
 
 It was not until the 2d of Juh'that the shins, free froni
 
 Tin: a HEAT wiirri: x out if 
 
 ire I'iir ihc fir.-t lime in 2H7 (la\'s. ])ut to sea, l)Ut not without 
 (laii-ivr ol' -'jucczi'.- iVoin liic nio\'in,u' icc-llocs which iVt'CjUcntl}' 
 1 h real cm 'd tlic ilc-l rurtion of t tic >hi]). i'li-hiu.ti,' to the noilli- 
 wai'il, they cntc!'l;iinc(l hi,uh hope.- of makin^i;,' tlic looked-for 
 pa^-aire to the Polai' Sea, hut unfoi't unately a fi^rniidahle hnc 
 of inii)enct I'ahlc ice harrcd tiic way and deternhned Parry to 
 make ;u"i exj)edilio]i aloiiti,' the fro/en surface of the -t!'ait in 
 wlhcli they found t heni-el\'cs. 
 
 For four d[a\'< Pari'y, acc()nii)anied by a party of -ix, made a 
 lahot'ioa- :in(l fat i'.ruin2; ailvance over the uneven huanmocks 
 of ice that coufi'outed them. At times ojicn water made the 
 .iourne\' -till more ["'I'hou-. Their exertion- were at kc-t 
 re])aid \\'hen they came in \'iew of a hold ca])e, where they 
 found the -irait at it- Uarrowe-t j)art ahout two nuh'^ aci'o--. 
 d'o t he wi-twai'd ihe land I'ccciled until it liccanie inxi-iMe, 
 and ('aptain I'ai'r}' heheM the u'reat Polar S;'a, into which he 
 iiad lonii' ho;)iMl to force his way. Xaminu' tin- the I'ury and 
 Heel a St rail . he made rrady for t lie I'et urn to t hf -iii|)<. 
 
 d^akin.u' adi\-anTau'e of e\-(>i'y fa.vouraMe condition. < 'a])tain 
 Parr\' now madf a- ra])idi };r(iu,-re-< toward !ii> u'oal a- the ice 
 WduM ])''rn.it. Idnie!' i'ull -ail thfy i)U>hedi into the I'olteii 
 icr il'a^ foi'meil the hari'ier to the oixai \\'ater. hut -uddiailx' 
 th<'\- iicraine fixed. in .t another yard could he -^aini-di. It 
 wa- n(c.\- foup.d !i( ce-^-ai-N' to extricate the \-(..-;--rl- and -rck 
 -h"lii-r inv aiinijicr loim wimei'. ( Ml the ;-!i)di ei' < )ctoh<'r. hy 
 the u-Uil (iprraiion ef -awinu'. tlu' -hip- wi-ri^ drawn into the 
 harhoui'oi' hilMoiik. and nucle readi\- for ihe wiiii .'r, which wa< 
 
 iw r,-! pally 
 lv\cur-i( <\\ 
 
 .cere o;-ca-ionall\" ncdc with dou- aiid^ -lcd'.:'es 
 li-hini'!-. h;;i *h'- -■■a-on -i-iiird d^ 'Wn wiiii 
 'y and lii^' -(■'■oiid loici wintci''- n!j.hi pro\'!-il 
 ;. iui 1 han thi- Wv--. 1 )eai!i a!;d -'-m-x-}- m.id!' 
 '!'• ai 'O^al'anfia and alt hoHMJ, ( •.,,,-• .i;,, P;,;M-y 
 ■r etforl tic followin'' \'!-a.r h\- tran-f'^r- 
 
 iciivi ■ all
 
 DESTIU'CTIOy OF THE Fl'llY 51 
 
 ring to the Furn ull ]jrovisions that could Ijc sparod. and <v\\A- 
 ing tlie Ilecla home with the .sick, this ])roject was abandoned, 
 and on the Otli of August they turned tlieir faces homewar(L 
 
 Tlie}' touched at Wintc^r IsUmd and found radishes, nnis- 
 tard, crt'ss, and onions tliat they had planted the ])revious 
 year still alive. Tlie ships were diifted about in a st(jrmy sea 
 at the mercy of ice-floes and adverse currents. Xot until 
 S('])tember 2o did th(\v g(4 free into the Atlantic : and, the 
 lOtli of ()ctol)er, 182.], reached Lerwick, Scotland. 
 
 This exjiedition having ])roved tlie impractical)ility of 
 a ])assage through the western extremity of ^Melville Island or 
 by way of Fury and Hecla Strait, it was hoped that a passage 
 might })(> accom|)lished through Pi'ince Eegent Inlet. For 
 this ])ui'pos(>, Captain Pai'ry was again fitted out in the Ilecla 
 and in th(^ accidental absence of Captain Lyon, Lieutenant 
 lI(.)i)]Minr was j)ut in command of the Fury. The ex])e(liii()n 
 saih^l from Xorthfleet on tlie lOtli of ALiy, 1821, and entere.l 
 Davis Stnut about tlie middle of June. Lancaster Sound 
 was not reached until Se])tember 10, and Port P)Owen was 
 made their winter (juartcrs. After ten months' imprison- 
 nuent, tlie shi])s -were once more free, Ijut, later overtaken b}' 
 gale-. i)()th ships sustained serious damag(\ Drift ice caught 
 "ih('m and threatened immefliate desTrue^'aon. The Furii was 
 thi'own on -hore and seriously damag"d. Later it v/as h)und 
 nee(^ssar\' to ;il)andon her. Tlie IFchi. now ovei'crowded by 
 tlie |)!'0\-!-i()[is and ci'ew of tlv Fnru, could no longer ])ursue 
 hci' course aiiil wa- forced to return to Fngland. Ilitter as was 
 hi- di-a])])oi!uincrir. Parry clung to the i<lea tliat a northwe-t 
 ];a--;;ige would some day Ije accomplished, and to this end he 
 wr(jte : — 
 
 '"I feel coiihdcnt that tlie undertakinii. if it he d('eme(l a'l- 
 \'is:il)l(' ;;r ;iny future time T(.) pur-u" it, will one ch-y (M' ot'icr 
 b:' iiccoiMphshcil : fo!' -ettinsj: 'i-ide the aecidi-nl- to wthc'i, 
 frtjiii tlieii' \'cr\- nature, ,-uch attemots mu-t be lialjie, a- well
 
 THE (rllF.AT Will IK yoilTir 
 
 a- other uiifav()ral)l(' circuui-i anccs which huiiiaii f(jr('si<i-lit 
 call iic\-ci- "iuanl aLi.'aiii>t, or human power coiiir(;l, 1 cannot 
 hut l)eUe\'e it to he an eiiteri)rise (jf pi-acticahiHty. It inaV 
 he trie(l often ami fa/ih for >e\-eral fa\'orahle and h)rtunate 
 circuiii>tances must he comhineil foi' its accomj)h>hinent : hut 
 I herie\'<', ne\-ertheh'<.-,that it will ultimatel}' he acc(.)m])lishe(l."" 
 
 ■■ I am much mistaken, inileeil." he continues, "if the Xorth- 
 \\'e-.t Pa->a,u'<' ever hecome-the hu>ine>s (jf a sin,L!;l(- -uminer : 
 nay, I helie\-e that nc^thinu' hut a concurrence of \-ery favor- 
 ahle circum>tance> f- lilvcly e\-er to make a >in,ule winter in 
 the ice -uflicient for it> accomplishment. P>ut there i- no 
 aruument a,iiain.-t the ])o»iliility of final success : for we 
 know that a. \\'iiner in t lie ice may he pas-ed not only in safety, 
 hut in health and conhort." 
 
 "I in April. lS2h," write- Captain !'arr\-. " ])ro])ose(l to the 
 Jiiu.'hl Honorah'e A'i-count Ah'U'ilh'. the fir>i hu'd commis- 
 sioner (jf the Admiralty, to attem])t to reach the Xorth Pole 
 hy meiuis of traVfllinu' with sled'^c-hout- o\'er the ir'c. or 
 1hroU'.:'h any -])ac('- of o])en water tha_t miiiht occur. .My 
 ])ropo-a! wa- -oon al'tf-rward referred To tiie ])re.-idcnt and 
 council of the Pioyal Society, who -tromi'ly reeommended 
 it- adoption: a.nd an exi)e'!ii ion hi-iuLi; accordiimly directed 
 1o hi- e(iui))ped for Tiiis ])Ui-l)M-e. I had the honour of heiim 
 ap])omlei! to till' comma.iid oi' it ; and m>' commi--ion for \\\< 
 maje-ty"- -hip the If'-rl'!, which w;i- to carry u- to S])itz- 
 
 hei'LlcM. W:i- daterl the lltti of \o\-emhi-r. Is2t). 
 
 "'hwo iio;it- were cour-t pi [d ( ., j ;ii W'oolwich. uiider mv su- 
 
 ])eriti' .-n I'-ner, ;iflei' ;ui I'XCflli'lit Innilrl -ULl'Lie>1ed hy Mr. 
 
 l'i''i!a', and iii'a!'l>' re-i'mhhu'i w hat ai'e eiilled ' t roop-1 loal -.' 
 h.-! '.■ill'.' 'j,'''\'!i i!ai lie-- of tlonr, \\-li !i till' f\1 1'l'iiie hreadt !i carried 
 '.'.■'■il !o!'w:.!-(! Mild a!'l. and po--i --iiiLl.' t he utmo-1 iiUoN'aiiey. a- 
 V-'W a- eapai'ity (ny -U)]-:-'i<-. 'hicir idi-lh Wm- tWdlly feet, 
 and ih'd i'\'!'iinc iirc:idiii -i-\-i-ii fe;'i. The timh^-r- were 
 mad'- oi ;ou'i';; ;L-'n ;m-i !iii-!vor\'. one inch h\- half an iiii-'h
 
 I'AnnY s Forirni i'dyage 
 
 s(|U;i!'('. and a foot apart, with a "half limlx'r' of >ni:ill('r size 
 lictwicn {^ac'li two. On \\w outsidi* of tlK> fi'nmc thus foriiunl 
 was hiid a c'ox'crin.u' of Alackiutosh.'s water proof (■an^•as, 
 the out(n' part hchi.ii cox'crcd with tar. ()\'cr this was jjlaccd 
 a i)huik h)r fir, only thi'cc-sixtcM'iitlis of an inch thick ; then 
 a sheet of stout h'lt : and over aU, an oak ])lank of the same 
 tliickness as the fir : tlie whole of these l)t>in,u,' firmly and closely 
 secured to the timhers by iron screws a])]iIi(Ml from wit h(.)ut." 
 
 "On each sidt> of the keel," continues ('aptain Parry, "and 
 ])rojectin_<i considerably lielow it, was attached a stron^ii; 
 'I'umier" shod with smooth steel, in the manner of a sledtj,(^, 
 u.i)on which the boat entii'ely I'ested while uixju the ice.'' 
 Two wheels were also attaclu'd, but soon discarded as useless, 
 owin.ii to the unev(-nness of the ice. 
 
 Two officers aiui twelve men were seh-cted for each boat's 
 crew. The ILcln. acting as traus])orl fo!' the ad\"enture, 
 sailed March 27. 1S27, and made Hakluyt"s Headland l)y the 
 b)th of May, where she wa> shoi'tly beset by an ice-lioe which 
 can'ied liei- otf to tlie e;istM'ard. cau<in,u- both delay and vexa- 
 tion. For the safety of the Ilccln it ^\■as found ii(>cessarv to 
 return to Spitzber.iien and secure anchoi'a.iic in a sah' harbour. 
 This Parry accom])lished and, finding' a con\-enient reces-;, 
 which he named jlccla's ( 'ox'e, made ready h^r the main object 
 of 1 he expedition. 
 
 Having with him sevent\--one days' jirovisions, con<i>ting 
 of ]>emmican, l;i>cuit, cocoa, and I'um. with .-i)irit of wine to 
 be u>e(l a< fuel, change^ of warm clothinu'. thick fui' dre<.-es 
 foi- .-le(>ping in. and stout I'^kimo boots, lie got away ,]m\o 
 22, and -pi'oceeded in oi)en waier -ome eisz'hty miles, wlien the 
 boats came to a tr\-i!m- condition of mixe<l -urfaec ic(' lunl 
 watci'. thr(»ugh which it wa> found necess;u'\- allei'nately to 
 haul and Hoat them. Owing to the better condition of tlu^ 
 ice, it w;is de(>me(l best to re\'erse the u-tial course nf life. 
 
 "Travelling by night and .-leeping by da\-." wi'ito ( 'aptain
 
 :)4 
 
 Tin-: (iiLKAT wiiiTK ^^<)Jrnl 
 
 P;uT\' "so completely inverted the luitunil order of tilings 
 ti'.at it wa.-. didicult 1o persuadi' ours(4v(\s of the reality, 
 lvv'(Mi the ollicei'.s and myself, who were all furnished with 
 pocket chronometers, could not alwax's Ix^ar in mind at which 
 ]);ut of \\iv t\vent\'-four lioui's we had arrived ; and tliere wer(; 
 several of the men who declared, and I l)eh(>ve truly, that they 
 nev(u' kn(>w ni<;ht from (hiy durin<>; the whole excursion. 
 W'iieu we ros(> in th(> evenin<>;, we ('ommenc(>d our day 1)\' 
 })ray(M's ; aftei- which we took off our fur sleepinjj,' di'csses and 
 ])ut on clothes for t i-avellin<>;, the foruKM' ix'ini;' unulv of camlet 
 liiied with raccoon skin, and the latt(n" of sti'onji; blue cloth. 
 We made a point ahways of ])uttin.u; on the sam(> stockin<z;s and 
 h(j(jts for ti'a\'ell!n,ii; in, wiiethei' they had keen dried (hu'in<>; 
 the day or not, ;uid f believe it Vi'as only in five or six instances 
 a1 ihe mo-^t that lh(>y wer(> not eithei' still wet or hard fro/en. 
 d'liis indeed was of no coiise(iuence, beyond tlie discomfort of 
 fii'st ]>uttinji; tli(-m on in tliis state, as they W(M-(^ siu'c to he 
 1 i'.o!'ou,uh!\' wet ill a (|uai'((M' of an houi' after comnKMicinu; our 
 journey ; wliil(\ on tlie otlier liand, it was of \-ilal imp()rtanc(> 
 to keep (h'y thinuv; foi' sleep^inii,' iii. ])ein_i2; 'ri^j^ed' for ti'a vei- 
 ling',, w<' breald'a.sted ujx)!) warm cocoa and biscuit, and 
 aftei' stowinir t!ie thiii'.i's in !)()a,ls. and on the skillies, so as to 
 s!'cur<' ihem as much as possii)ie fi'om the wet, we set off on 
 our day'> journey and usually 1ra\'elled foui', fi\'e, or s(>ven. 
 liour-;, ;iccf irdiii'i,- to circum-'1 auces." 
 
 4'iiey maile \'e:'y slow ])i'oL!;re--s in sp/ite of their strenuous 
 exc!'! io!i-, o\\ ini': 1o tiie floes hei'ii;' small, exce(N!iuid\" rouu'li, 
 ;i!!il iiucr:--ec1 ed by lane-; of watei' which could not be ci'o<-ihI 
 v.'!lhi)u1 unloadii'U' ihe bo;;1s. i\a/m added to iheir divcom- 
 \'>;\ ''aiHiie^' 1 lie ice to !'■, irm into numbe!-k><s irre^ulai' needle- 
 kl-.'' cry-i;ib, whii'li prox'cd \-ei-y trying' to the feet. i'"le\'ati'd 
 k iimiti.ii'i-' - ;)r"-cni ed 1 kcm-eb/e-;, o\'e!' wiiich it was almost 
 
 i ■ Ml K i--il ':• 1(1 d r;!\\^ ; kc ko'M ,-. 
 
 I'A'en b\- ikf u1mo-t ei'i'oi'ts 1 ke\' could not make an ad-
 
 p.i7i'/.'i' .s Foi'irrn voyage 5") 
 
 vo-ucc of inon^ thuii ;i iiiik^ ;ui(l a luiU' or two miles in fi\'c or 
 six hours. Kcaliziu.ti- the unfavourahli^ coiulitious for rcachiiit^ 
 the pole, owins^to thv advanced season of lhe y(>ar, Parry soon 
 rc^incjuished that h.opc^ and bent liis ener<;ies to r(>achin<f at 
 l)est tht^ 8;-)° ])arallel, if ])ossil.)le. But now to his utter dis- 
 eoura^'enient it was found tliat tlie drifting of the snow fields 
 ^^'as gradually e;u'r>ing them backward, and that, in spite of 
 every attempt to advance, th(\v w(>i'e daily losing ground. 
 
 On July "io, they reached their farthest north, S2'^ 45'. 
 "At the extreme ])oint of our joui'iu^y," says l\iny, "t>ur dis- 
 ttuice from the Jlecla was only one hundred and se\-enty-two 
 miles in a S. \V. direction. To acc()m])li>h this dis1anc(\ W(> 
 liad travei's(Ml, by our r(>ckoniug, two hundred and ninety-two 
 miles, of wliich ai)out one lumdriMl \\('re jierfornuMl by water 
 ])reviously to our (mtering the ice. As w(> travellcMl by far the 
 greater ])art of our dist;uic(> on llu^ ice thi'ee, and not uirfre- 
 (|uently fi\'e. times ovt'r, we ma\' safely nudtiply the l(Migth of 
 the !'oad l)y two and a half ; so that our whole distance, on a 
 A'er}' modiM'ate calculation, amounled to five luiiv.lred ae.d 
 eighty ge()gra])hical, or six hvmdriHl ;nid >ixty-eight siatute 
 miles, Ining iu>arly ^ullicient to lun'e reached th.e i)()le in a 
 direct line. \']) to this ])(Miod, we had been ])artirulaii\' foi'- 
 tun:!t(^ in the ]ii'es(M'\-a1 ion of om- lu^alth." 
 
 Owing to tlu' increas(>d softness of tlu^ ic(\ the retui'ii triji 
 w;is e\-(Mi more diflicul! than the advance, the nwn sinking 
 1o tlieir llilglis in tlu^ ic(> slush. B\- the 11th of August th(> 
 jo\'fu! -ound of the siu'f bireaking again>1 the mai'gin of th(^ 
 ice w;!< h.eai'd, ;ind later th'c lK)ats wei'e launch(>d into o]ieu 
 w;iter, and in another ten d;tys th(\\' rejointMl the Ilccbt. and 
 soon afterward sai!e(l for I'Jigiand. 
 
 .Pan'y's remai'!-.:ab!(> vo\'ages. besides r(>;i])ing a lich liarNcst 
 of sciee.liiic data, liad jiroN^ed th.e navig;ibihly of l.anc:;st(M' 
 Sound. th(> non-(^xistence of lh(^ ('rocker Mountains, and, tlial 
 Prince Pegent Pilel opened into Parrow Strait, which in
 
 .)() 
 
 THE ciiKAr wiim: jsoutu 
 
 1uni widened into Melville Sound, and thence opened into the 
 j)ol:if ocean. lie had added to \\\v map the ini])orlant 
 ai-chipela,^() or Pany Islands, many of which he named and 
 exploi'ed; jiad outlined the sounds, l)a\'s, und inlets throu<;'h 
 which he had sailed; discovei'ed llecla atid l''ui'\' Sti'ait : and 
 demonstfated the imiii'act icahilit y of makin<i; the northwest 
 passai;;e l)y way of Frozen Strait.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 Xiiu-tcciitli century, continued: Scor(^sl)y and C'lavcring. — I^or- 
 mcv visited Jan Alayen Island in IS 17, l;it(n' visited east coast 
 of Cireeiiland, discovered Scoresby Sound. — In ls2\. Captain 
 Lyon sur\-(>y(>d Melville Peninsula. — Adjoining sti'aits andsho]'(\s 
 of Arctic America. — In ]S2~), ('aplain IScecluy in the Bhissatii 
 sailed througii ]k>hring Sti'ait and passed l.)(>y()iid ley Cape. — 
 Sur\'(ye(l the coast as fai' as Poiiu J'arrow, adding 12(') niilcs of 
 new shore. — Second \-oyage of Captadn John Ko^-s. - rndei'taken 
 in 1S2(). --■ Discovers Hoothia. — A\'iiUerrd in IVlix Hai'oor. — 
 Discovery of Xortli [Magnetic Pol(C)y ncplunv of ('aptain John 
 Ross. — ( 'onmiander James Clark Poss. — - \'adiialile oli>er\-alions. 
 
 — Sledgi> joiu'neys to niaiidand. — Pour yeai's spent in the Arc- 
 tic. — Pei'ihnis retn>at. — Safe return. — Pand jounuy l>v Captain 
 Pack. -The Croat Fish-Pack JPver. -^ Point Ogle. --Point 
 Pic!iardi<iin. - - Mack's farthest ]H)ini was (IS' ].'■>' ~u" norlli lati- 
 tude. 04" .")S' 1" \vo>t longitude. Panil jounu'ys of Sini])-on and 
 Deasc. js.'Sl). - Drscciul the ^lackenzic liivn' to the sea. — Sur- 
 ve\'ed \ve>1 shoi'e between Petui'u Pu>i'f and ( 'ajie Jian'ow. — In 
 IS.'!',*, they explored >hor('s of \'ictoria Land as fai' as ( 'apr P.arry. 
 
 — Crossed ('oi'onatioii Culf. - - Deseendeil the Coppcrniine. — - 
 Pea(Ped_ the Polar Sea. — ( )verl,and joo.rncy in isjfi by Di'. John 
 Pae eonfirin(.'(l Ca'ptain John Ross's statemenl thai ]^)OOtliia was 
 a peninsula. 
 
 Tni-; iKuiu^s of Scoresby and ( 'lavoring hold theii' own 
 six^eial interest in llio long list of heroes of the noHii. .V 
 pi'aetieal wliahannii. of an iiitolligont and seientilie fi'anie of 
 mind, S"or(>sby, as early as ISOb, liad n(aiet rated to wit hiu fi\"o 
 liui\d!'ed geograi)liieal miles oi' tlio Polo. In ISl 7 be had ma('o 
 an excursion to Jau Mayen Island, and lattu' a.secaidod Mitri' 
 
 57
 
 r„s 
 
 77//-; cuKAT wiiirK .xoirrif 
 
 Cape, whose suiiiinit is csliiiialrd at three Ihousaiid fe(^t 
 uh()\-e the le\'(>l of Ihe sea. l)Ul not until 1(S22 (hd his (hs- 
 (•o\-eries reach the ,u'i'ea1est iniportance. In this year, while 
 i<eai'ehin<;' Utv hclter fi>hin,i;' iifounds, he fell in with the eastern 
 coast of (li'cenland, a shore almost entirely unknown, (>x- 
 ce])t wliei'e the Dutch colonies of Old (ireenland wei'e su])- 
 ])()seil io ha\-e heen situated. >kirtin,i>,- this bleak and barren 
 coast. Scores! )y uanie(l inlets, l)a\'s, and (■a])es as he dis- 
 c()\'ered lliem, i>assin,i!; .Jameson Land and finally r(>achini2; 
 Hcoreshy Sound. 
 
 'I'lie coa>1 of .Jameson Land seemed esjw'cially hai ile, and 
 e\-idences of I'ude habitations W(M'e seen, but no human l)e- 
 in,L;,s discox'ei'eil. l-'roceedin,a; noiiliAVard, still fo!lo\\'in,u' tlie 
 coa--1-line, he wa^ soon bes(>t with ice, and ihou^h lie named 
 o1 hei' p()inl> oi' land and inlets, he was obliu,cd to relui'ii, not 
 lia\ini;- I'un across the \\'hales which it was liis business t(j 
 secui'c. 
 
 ( iood fortune, howe\'er, favoured him, foi" on the bll h of 
 Auuust numel•ou-^ whales aj)peared round the ship; three; 
 AN'ei'c .-secured, a.nd the ship now "full-hshed" could make a 
 liapp\- relui'n to Jjii'jand after a most successful year. 
 
 The followiiu;- season, ('aplain ( 'hiverin^', comman<ler of 
 II. AI. S. (irijxr, conxcyed u ('apiain Sabine to IlammerlesL 
 in Xoi'wax-, wliei'c Sabine desii'cl to mai<e certaiin scientific 
 ob<cr\'aliou< on the com])ai'a1 i\'e leni^th of the ])eiidulum 
 a- a!Tec1(-d by ihe j jiiiicipic of a11 1'act ion. ()lher noi'llici'U 
 poinds wep" lo lie toiiclied foi' similar purpos(\s, mid Spitz- 
 bei-'.i'n \\\\i\ llic- ea-1 co;i-1 of ( li't'(ailand were dolu'tialeii, 
 thi' I'iMi'r piiim iH'iii'r r^'adied cai'ly in Auun^t. " He landed 
 hi- p:!--i'!i';e!' ;iiii! llie ^(■ien1ific apparaliis on 1 wo i>laiids 
 d'-; :i!'!ii';| from ilic ea>iei'n .-iioi'c of i he coiU in(Mi1 , which he 
 caljfl tlic i'liciiiliim i.-laii(!s, ;ind ^^[ which ihe oulermosl 
 pniiil i- i!i;ii'kid liy ;i Imld i ]( •.■|( !l;i lid |-i-iiii': 1o llic hciL'.hl of 
 liiivc ilioi;-;uii! feci." ("Ai'dic .\.d\-enture,-,"' Sar,L!,eut.j
 
 ^IKLVILLK J'ENINSrLA T)*) 
 
 Wliilc waitin.y; for Captain ?^abit\o, ('lav(a'iu<i; i'(H'0!iiioitr(Hl 
 \\io ('Oust, au<l was more' foi'tuuatc than Scorrs'hy in runnino; 
 across some of the natLV(\s, who closely restful )le( I tiu)s(> 
 tlescrilxnl by P;iiTy. Iiy the be<i;inniii<i; of September, Sabine 
 having completed liis observations, the (iripvr made her way, 
 not without dijiiculty and delays, bj^ Avay of Drontheim, 
 back to England. 
 
 In 1S21, Ca])tain Lyon, connnanding the (iri])('i\ was given 
 th.e lask of the surv(\v of Melville P(>ninsiil;i, adjoining straits, 
 and tlu^ sliori' of Arctic .Vmerica. OvcM'laden and unsc-a- 
 worlhy, tlu^ ( in' per was totally inifit for such an (^xpc^dilion, 
 and u])on rc^aching Ivoe WcUhjuu^, she was struck by a gak^ 
 wliich threatened the desti'uction of both the shi]) and crew. 
 Aft(a- being battered ai'ound at th(^ nua'cy of tlu^ storm for 
 three days and niglits, in which connnander and ci'ew had 
 taken no I'cst or sKhm), slu^ was finally brouglit to ai\chor in a 
 sliallow bay, latca- d(\-;ignated as (.lod's ?\I(a'cy. IIcM'e she was 
 still in innnin(Mit danger of b(nng groundcnl, and thei'e secaned 
 little ho])e of iier surviving ihe high s("as then running. The 
 crew wer(^ ordei'cxl to i)re])a,r(^ for the worst, and to this (aul 
 each man was cDiuniandcMl to iput on his w:irmer clothing. 
 Of this sc(au\, Captain Lyon writ(\s : — 
 
 "E;i('h, therei'oi'o, brouglit his bag on (l(>ck and dr(^ss(>(l 
 himself, and in the fine athletic foi'ms wh.ich stood (^x])()S(m1 
 before me. 1 did not s(H' one musck^ (juiver. nor the slight(>st 
 sign of alarm. Pi'ayers wer(> I'ead. and th(\v tlaai all sat 
 dov>m in gi'oups, sheltercMl from the wash of the sea l)y what- 
 ever ttie\- could I'lwd. and sonu^ (>nd(\ivored to ob-tain a little 
 sleep. rS(>\-er. iK'i'ha])s. was witnessed a line!' scen(> tlian 
 on the deck of m\- little shi]), wiien all li{)])e of life had left 
 us. Noble a^ tlie character of t\\v iJritisli s:i:lo!- is always 
 allowed to be- in cases of dangta', >"et I did not b(^lieve it to lie 
 pos-ible that ;imong fort\'-one ])(S'soiis, not one }\>p!niiig 
 word should hav(> becai uttca'cd. Each was at peacc^ with
 
 i;o 
 
 77//; i:i:r:.\r wiiitk yoirrii 
 
 \'.\< iifiuhl-i)!' uikI .ill the w'oi'ld ; mid I am finiil\' ])cr.-ua(l(Ml 
 liial ihc iv.^i^iiaTioii which w'a- ihcu >h()Wii lo the will of the 
 Ahiiiiiin y. wa- ihc mean- of ohlainiii^ Hi- mercy. (i()(l wa- 
 mcrcii'ul li) u>, ami the liilc. almcot mirafailou-ly. h41 ikj 
 
 \i )\vrv." 
 
 A- -(Kill as the weather coiiililions ])ermilte(l. they ai- 
 lempied lo |)r()C<'e(l up Mels'ihe ( 'haiiliel, hul aiiolhei' -toi'lii 
 •. )\-^'!'t(i( il: ihem. ami, after con-uh imi,' wit h his odicers, it was 
 decided It) luri! the crippled ship for iiome, 
 
 Anolher expe<liiii)ii iiiat set out ahout this time flS2.")) 
 w;i- commanded hy ('aptain He(-che\'. The lilnsstini was 
 ilirecied lo round < 'a])e ilorii and emer the .Vrclic 1)\' Wa\' of 
 liehrinu' Sirail. In descridinu' this oreat u'alewa}' 1o the 
 noi'ih, ('ai)lain lieechey write-: 
 
 " W'e a])!)roached die strait \vhich sei)arate< the two u'reat 
 coiiiinem- of A-ia and America, on one of iho-e lieautifnl 
 -dli nil;:!!!- well known 1o all who ]ia\'e \-i-iied the Arctic 
 reL;ion-. when the -ky i- without a cloud, and when the niid- 
 n;::hl -un. -eiircejy hi- own iliametei' helow the hoi'izoii, 
 iim;e- wiiii a kriiilit hue all the norlhein circle. 
 
 "')iir -hip. propelled !iy an increa-iii,u' hreeze, uliijed 
 rapidlx' alonu' a -mooth .-ea. -tarlinu.' from her i)alh Hock- of 
 a'lUj'ic hird-. who-e (liiiht. in the dt'Cp -ilence of the -ceiie, 
 CO!. Id 1,.. trace(l 1 ly i!ie ear to a u'feat di-lalice." 
 
 To' t !i" norl tl of C 'ape Prince of Wale-. 1 hey were xd-ited liy 
 li-ldnno- widi \\"hom thi^y haflereil and had friendly inter- 
 
 e.ii!-.-. !',\. the -JlM of July. tl;e -hil) reached Kol /el Ule 
 
 ""o iipl. mim! :,\U'V exploriiio- a deep inlet oil it- lioHheni -iioiv, 
 
 whieli :i:ey named Ilotliam Inlet, they I'ominueil their 
 co.i'-- 'o (■h-!mi--o I-land. wi:'-."'' they hopeil to idll in willi 
 ,'-ii' .1:::!! fVankiiii'- exDedit ion. t hell ill the fiekl. Sikm iii'i 1 he 
 e.i--' ■ ■;.- ( '.Mpe 'rkoni-i>n. I'oint Hope, ('ape I.l-liurn. < 'ape 
 
 Im:!';,-!' . an.i k-y ('-pe. they ke-aU to -ee exdleia-e- of li;e 
 'U i >:'. ,■,(■' , i;' \'/ii,i .;■. and r;il her 1 hall I'i-k keiliii; fro/eii in. 1 key
 
 noss SEcoxi) I'ovAci-: 
 
 Gl 
 
 From ]ivv(' Captain BccH'hcy (IcspalcluMl the l)ai\u;(' in 
 char.iic of his li(nit(Miants to survey the eoast. This they suc- 
 ("cssi'ully accouiphshcd as far as Point I^arrow, a ciistanco 
 of one hun(h'(Ml and twenty-six niil(\s of new sh()r(\ 
 
 The hist of August, 1S27, found the Jilnssoin ngam at 
 Clianiisso Ishuid. where inlereourse was renewed willi the 
 i'^skinios. V)}' ()eto]>er, no news havin.ii; Ix'cn ree(U\'ed of 
 Frankhn, ('a])tain ]-)(M'ehey rehielanlly shaped his liomev.'ard 
 course. \ot until th(^ foUowin,^; >'(~ai', October 12, 1S2S, did 
 he arri\'e in I'highuid, liitvY an absence of three years and a 
 hah'. 
 
 We now r(^turn to ("ai)tain John Hoss, \v]ios(^ ])r()fessi()nal 
 reputation had suffered for ten years, under the cloud of liis 
 c^u'ly faihn(\ Evov anxious to I'eti'ieve his unfortunate mis- 
 takes, he had in vain imi)h)r(Ml tlie l^ritish A(hniralty to send 
 liim once moi-e to the Arctic. rn(kunit(Ml by tlieii' refu-:il 
 and iii(hl'f(M'encc, he ])ei-s(>\-cred in his determiiiation, and at 
 last found a liberal supjjorter in I'Vlix l^ooth, a rich disti'lei', 
 who conli'ibuTed se\-enteen thousand pounds towsu'd the ])ro- 
 ])osed expetliiiou. Captain Ro-^s :iddin_<>,' his own (^ntire fortune, 
 which was jibout thre(> thous:uid ])oun(ls more. 
 
 A small Tvivei'pool steamei- called the Viclorij, on(- hundiXMl 
 ami fifty ton^, was purchased and prox'isioned for thr(M> yc;irs. 
 Accompanyinii; ('ai)tain Ross, as second in command, was 
 his nephew. .James Ross, who had -mailed wii h him oi) tlie first, 
 \'oyat!,(" to tli(^ Arctic, and had also acc()m))anied Parry (a; all 
 his \-oyati-(>s. Scltiiiu; -ail in May, ls2!), with the a\'owed 
 object of makimr. if po--ib!c. tlu- Xorth\vc<t Pa~sa,u'e by some 
 openiii'i: leadiiiL!,' oiit of Ive2,'c!i1 lidet, ttiey neared the D'sn- 
 ish seltlemcMit of Ilolsteinbofu', in ('o'ceiiland, to\\'ai-d the !a-t 
 ot' .Inly, whci'e 1 he\' i'(-cei\-ed ;i mo-^t hospit.able welcome li.im 
 the ^vA-iM'iioi'. Their >1ore-; wen- i'cp'eni^hed anil ciM-tain 
 obniM' addition^ made, inclndin'i six l^vkiir.o (lo<.i,'s, a piv-eiit 
 fi'oni th(> tiovemor. S:ii!in,Li; noilhward, the\' si<i;lited tlie im-
 
 rrl 
 
 TIIK a UK AT WIIITK y()llTIT 
 
 ])().-in<:' mountains of Di-c(^ I.-lan<l, ])urTially covci'od with 
 -now, ami latci'. flare I>lanil, wliich llicy found clcai'. a])- 
 ])i'oac!iini!: latitude 74^. where the II(cla and Fur;/ had been 
 iee-lt()und in l^'ih Xo ice wtiatever ^va> encouriTereth Xot 
 wiiliout emotion, ("ajjlain l{o-- entered Lanca-Ter Soundi, 
 tlie >eciic (if hi- eari\' lilu'.ider. Now he h)und seai'cely any 
 trare oi ie". and he -ailed thi'ouii'h the middle of it, ])a>- in^■, on 
 t!ie lOtli eif Auiru-1, ('a])e York, after which the land tui'us 
 southwai'd and. \\'ith the opno-ite coa>t of X'orth Somer>et 
 ('I'oothia', foi-m- the hroadi openinir of Prince Pu^uvnt Inlet. 
 Some day,- later tliey |)a<-ed the -cene (jf the Fiir;fs wreck. 
 ddiey examined tiie snot, and found that thouuii the hull had 
 entirely di-ai)i)cared. the tcnt^ and ])ole< were still standin!!. 
 The cani-ter- of ])re-erved i")i'o\'i-ion- were in jierfect condition, 
 aho ih" wine, -utiar, hi-ead. (lour. and. cocoa, and, after re- 
 Ijleni-hui'i their own ^tort'.-. they left a la.rLie ([Uantiiy hehind. 
 P.y the middle of Auu'U-t tliey had cro<-e(l the mouth of 
 C'!-c--well P)ay and reacheil ('a])!' Pai'ry. the fai'the<1 ])oint 
 seen t )y Parry on hi< previou- voyaii'e, hut here they found 
 difhcu'iy in n;i\';2:atinii\ owinti' to the comi)a-s heinu' u-ele-s hy 
 ]>roximity to the .Xhcjuetic J'ole. p-c condltic^ns al.-o hecame 
 alai'miu'j.' and ohiiaei! them to make fa-t to the driftiim' 'ioc-, 
 ■which -omci iiMi'- carried them forward, hut more often hack- 
 ^\■;ll■d. -1) PirO cnn-i' lera! ile time ;md di-talicc \va- lo-l in thi- 
 maiiiiei'. In the U-w ^\'l■ek< reniaininu". heforc i!ic winter 
 cold !;cld 1 hem icc-1 lounij, ( 'apt ain lio-< explored -ome three 
 hutuh'ed mijc^ of coa-t land. Lioinii; a- far a- rJi'entwcIl Pay. 
 P:ii';y mile- h.'VMMd ('aoc Parrvx Here ('aptain Po— w^nt 
 a-Pc'.- and fdi'miniy 1(lo]^ po--e--ion in the kinu'"- name, c.all- 
 
 \\":\\' ''v\^''j: m I'eiix IlaiPor. the ])arty had -e\-erai occa- 
 -ie'i-- ;'. >>■ iiio ■'■ri i'n'-e w'' '/> I itic iP !-; i 1 11 o- . fi'oin \\'''.'ni tiie\- 
 
 LlaVi'-rcM O Ml 
 
 of 1 he i-i liini r 
 
 '■■ in'i ii'ma' II >]\ re^a r^ iuili: i !ie u' ^ ''Sva] Miy 
 ni- leii ('aot.ain po.-- to ,-end ou^ -"Via'al
 
 JAMKS CLAllK BOSS G-] 
 
 expeditions, hoping to establish tlie ]:)ossibilit3' of a passage 
 tlirough to the W(\st, when th(^ siunnun- sliould again free 
 tlieir ships, hut after eareful inspcK-tion it was concluded that 
 their only hope was to th(^ north. Though the observations 
 were made from several distiuit points, and much valuabh^ 
 iuf(jrmation collected, the months rolled by in h(j])eless suc- 
 cession, with no apparent prospect of leaving this desolat(^ 
 spot. 
 
 Xot until the ITtli of September were th(^ ships fr(H\, and 
 even then they ad\'anced only threc^ miles to find tluMUscdves 
 blocked once more, and a few days later liopelessly frozen in 
 for anotlua' dreary winter. Xot until A])i'il, IS.'^O, wen^ any 
 excursions attenq^ted, and in one of these Commander 
 James (dark Pioss had the good fortune^ to discover- tlie 
 North Alagnetic Pole in latitude 70° o' 17", longitude Of/ 
 46' 45" \V. 
 
 "Tlu^ ])lace of the observatory," he writ(~-s, '"'was as near 
 to the Magnetic Pole as the limited means which I possess(Ml 
 enabled me to detca'mine. The amount of the di]), as indi- 
 cated l)y m\- di])])ing-n(MMll(\ was 80° o!)', being thus witliin 
 one mimite (jf the vertical : while the ])i'oximit}' at least of 
 this ])ole, if n(jt its actual existence where W(^ st(x)d, was fur- 
 ther confii'ined by the action, or rather by th(> total inactifjn, 
 of tlie several horizontal ncM-dles then in my ])0>se>si(jn." 
 
 "As soon." continues ('onnnander Pioss, ""as I had satis- 
 fied my own mind ()nth(> subject, I made known to the i:)aity 
 this gratifying result of all our joint labors: audit was then that, 
 amidst nnitual congratulations, we fixed the I^jriti-^h flag on the 
 <]V)i. and t(j()k ])oss(>s-ion of the North ^Magnetic Pole and its 
 adjoining territoi'}' in tlie name of (Ireat Piitain and Iving 
 ^\'illiam I\". We had abuiKhmce of materials foi' ])uild/i!ig 
 in th(> fragments of limestout^ that covered the beach, and we 
 tliei'efoi-e erecte(l a caii'n of -ome magnitude, under wiiich \\'e 
 bui'ieit a cani.-ter C(jntaining a record of the iiit ei'e-ting fact,
 
 riii: (.iiKAT wiirrr. soirni 
 
 finiy rfurcliiiiii th;it \vc had not the means ot const ruc'tinu' a 
 ])yraiiiiil ol' more iniporlancc. and of strcn^u'th sufticicnt to 
 \\-illi-tand llic a>>aulls of time and liic lv-kinio>. Had it 
 liii 11 ;i uyi'aniid a- lai'U'c a-^ iha, of ('hcop,-. I am not (jnitc 
 >\\vc liiat it Would luiA'c done more than sati-fy our aml)i- 
 lion undicr ih'- I'ccjin,:!.- of thai cxcitinu' da\'."" 
 
 The .-U'Tccdinti- .-ummcr \\'a-> liardly moi'c cncom'a.uinti 
 llian tilt' i)rc\-iou< one. Not until thr la>t week in Auuu-l 
 Were thc\' .-ucrc><ful ill I'l-achiuu' o])('n watci' hy the labo- 
 I'iou- (■iVort of \var])in<i and towiuLi'. and. after (•ncountej-inL!; 
 ,Uale< and ice-floe-, they wei-r au'aili fa-1 in ihe ice 1 ly the 27lii 
 of Seijlem! )er. after a di-coui'a,ii'in,U' na\'i,uat ion of onl\' four 
 mile-;.' 
 
 The ihouuhl of a thii'd winter in ihe drea!'\' Ai'ctic had 
 a nio-1 di-!ieail''nimi.' etVeet upoii ihe ci'cw. Idif-ir oiil\' hojie 
 of uhimalely extricalinii' them-eU'es from iheir forlorn -itu- 
 ation w;i> in ahandoiiinti' the I ictnyij. lakinu lo iheir hoal-. 
 and maldiUii' iheir laiioriou- way !o the wreck of ihe F''rii. 
 \\'h(-re. -upplyinu' tluMii-elx'e- with a fi'e-h -lock of pro\u-ion-. 
 tlicy could pu-h on 1o Davi- Strait, in the hope of hein^u: 
 l)ic!<cd up ! ly a ])a--i;m' whale--hi]). ddie U'eneral health of 
 ihc iii^-n w;i~ -howinu' a decline; -lau'X'y -howeil it-cif a- early 
 a- \o\-cmhcr of liii- tryimi ye;ii'. 
 
 I'.\' Api'il 2:i. \"^'.'>'2. the fir-t pai'l of lhe ex])e(rnion -tarted 
 oM liii- wi'ari-iimc journey of -duie tluvc hundivd mile- to 
 l-'ury I'i'.'ich. nwiic.:' to the weio'lit of the load-, comhined 
 wiiii -now-d, I'it'i - and ice harrier-, it wa- nece--a!'y io lid hack 
 a!id hit'Ward ;iiid cM\-erllie -aiii" Lii-ound -e\-.'ral time-: ihu- 
 ad"i ;i iiiMiith t'ii"y iiad ti';i\-e|led ihl'ee hundred and tweiily- 
 niip' uiiii'- ill ihi- ii-yiim and cii'cuiiou- m.-umei' to uaiu ihii'ty 
 iii ;) 'Wy^'r] line. 
 
 < )!i 'P.. ■2[\\\i of \h'iy. hn:d leaX'e Wa- taken of the \','rlnri/. 
 I'-r ci.ii'U"- n;iil'-d Ui th'- m;i-i,;i p.-.n iu'.^- ^l.-i-- d;riink in her 
 l.iin^-ir, ;iiid lhe hr;i\-f old -hiplefi 1(1 her.Vi'ciic idmline--.
 
 Till-: lurrnKA'/' 
 
 05 
 
 .\()1 uiiiil ihc fii-<t of July did the whole crcnv r(\'U'h T^iry 
 rjcarli, alter inci'edihle ohslacles had been eucouutered and 
 ()\'e!Tome. the >lo\\' and lal)oi'ious advance made more ai'du- 
 (lU^ hy 1 he hea\'y loads lhey carried. 
 
 InnnediaTel}', howevei'. they s(>t 1o work and reai'c^l a 
 canx'as shelter, which they called Somerset House. Tlie 
 follo\\'in<i- month was sjx'ut in fitting out their boats. An 
 DjX'n sea now i2,'a\'e them hope of reachin.ii. throujih l^arrow 
 Strait, to Hailin Hay. Iceberu's and u'ales ])rov(Ml most dis- 
 astrous to their hojx's an<l. ;d'tei' makiiui a herijic attimiiit, 
 th(\\' found it necessaiy to return to T'ury Beach and s])end 
 their h)uith winter in the Arctic. 
 
 The winter i)i'o\'ed exciM'dingly severe, and thf^r ('an^'as 
 shelter quite inadequate to keei)inu; out the c(dd. However, 
 mattei'- v\'ere im])roved by a thick sjiow wall. Sickness, in 
 the dr(vide(l form (jf scurvy, caused imich imeasiness, and in 
 iM-bruary, Ib'-V-^. oik^ of tiLcii' number succumbed t(j the disease. 
 Theii- ^ixuation had now become alai'iniiifi', for if the}' were 
 not liberaleil the foUowin^ii' .-ummer. there wa;^ little chance 
 oi ai!\' of llieir nUimber sur\'ivin.u: another year. 
 
 A^ ea.rly in ihe season a> it was ])()ssib|e to travel, they set 
 forih on then life-and-de;ri h st rui,!j.\idc- for safety. Ixeduced in 
 St !'en,L!,l It. many of the men bein,!i,' sick, the laboi'ious ])roc(\ss 
 of ad\'ancinii' theii' loads was e\-en -lower than the ])re- 
 ced.ino- year. ]lowe\'er. by the 12lh of ,luly. th.ey all I'eachecl 
 llwii' luiat s'litioi! ill ])ait\- l->ay. \ot until .\u.u'u<t 1 -1 was 
 a lane of water le.iiiinu' nort!n\'nrd di>co\'ei'ed. and. em!)arkin^ 
 at an early hour i he !'oiio\-.iic.i- nioi'nin.u'. they ])ur>ue(l theii' 
 coiu'-f w^itli ri-iu'j; -{Mrit<. <hi the e\-eniue of t h.e bith.they 
 \\'er;' at l he noi'l hea-tern point of Americ:i with the opeii 
 sea ahead of tliem. Icelier.'.':- were iiuniei'ous, l)ui i!ieii' 
 couraii'e wa- u'ainiuii' cx'ery moment, and \\n-y look -inall 
 noli' of .-U'-h oli-t ae!e<. i'a->iim' thromib I'ari'ow Sti'ait. 
 the\- made that da\' -e\'ent\'-two miles. Deiaved b\- eon-
 
 Tilt: (.iiLwr wiirri-: soirrii 
 
 tr;ii'y wind-, t'lic} (liJ not rcacli Xavy Ijuard Iiild until the 
 2.V1I1, wiicrc t!i(-\' liari)i)Uf(Ml lor llic ni<i;lit. 
 
 llai'iv' tlic t'()ll()\vin,!i.' nioi'ninii', they were al•ou-^('(l from 
 -Iccp l.\' \\:f loolvoul man calling '"a ,-ail," hut tlioULili they 
 made c-v'ci'y c'Vort to I'cacii tliis .-liij). it ])a.--cd. thcni hy lui- 
 ol)-cr\"rd. At ten o'clock they siii'litcil aiiollici' \'c.-.-cl ^\•}iich 
 w'a- occainicd. Wy hai'd I'owlng they reached her and foundi 
 her to he the Isii'nHa (if Hull, a shi]) in which l{o>s had nuide 
 his fir>1 \-oy;m-c to tho-e sea-. Tlw ca])tain an.d mate could 
 hardily heJi(.\-(' their eye< when ]{o-s annoinice(l that he and 
 his ])arty wei'c the -ur\'i\'oi'> of the Virfuri/. which had heeu 
 <ii\'en u]) for lo-t more than two year- ])re\'iou-ly. lioss de-- 
 scriht's the scene on luKird that followe(l : -- 
 
 "'Jdie ludicrou- -oon to(ViC the ])lace of all other fef'ling- ; 
 in >uch a ci'owd, and .-uch c(jnfu-ion, all >eriuu-' thouirhi was 
 im])o-.-ihle, wliile the new huo\'anc\' of oui' s])irit> neuic us 
 aiiU!idantl\' wiilinL!; Xa he amu-ed hiy the .-ccne \\'i:ich now 
 oj)ened. M\'ei'y man wa- hunui'N'. and wa- to he fed : all 
 wei'c raiiu'ed. and were to he clothed : tiicre was not (nie t(.) 
 wliom wa-hinu' \va- not indi.-])en-ahle ; nor one whom his 
 Ifcard did not deiirix'e of all lennaii -emhlan.ce. All. r'ver\'- 
 thiiiLi'. t(;o. wa- li) lie done at once: it wa< A\"a-hinLL'. >ha\'Inar, 
 dre-.-iiiL!'. eatini:-. ah internhiiided : it wa- all the materials of 
 eaeh himhl-d. 1 1 .llvI h'^r. wiiile in the mid;-t of all thei'e wi^re 
 iniei'niina^le (jir -i ii m- to he a-le-d and, an-wered on hoi h 
 -ide- : ; he ad'/ei!l are- of 1 lie h h 7' //■//. o! u' own e-eaj'e-. the pi 1 1 i- 
 
 m.l.i.'id. imd t':e new< U"! i iel i Wa - niiW folU' \'e;!l>oli 
 
 "Xi'ziii ai li-'mhi; homulit (piiei and -ii-in'i- thoiiL:!:!-. and 
 I I i'U-1 i!!'re \va- !!(il a nian amcni:' u- whe) ihd not then e,\- 
 JM'e--. wAei';- ii wa - (hje. la- Mi';iiilude \i<y tiial iin(-r!)<i-ii inn 
 ".'.'hie'-; !.■! 1 [■ai-'-il n- a!I frnm a d' -nair whie!; nnne maid n^w 
 fiiriie;, :aid h;id !c'(,i;-ht e- fi'nm ih- \-.i-y hnrd.'i'- i,f a nm-t 
 di-i-ee ar:tee, 1m lif-- and friead- and eieiiiz:): 'nii. Lniiu: ;ie- 
 eu-i"i;p i, ii(i\\-c\"fr. til a eold ht -d i ui the hard -nww oi' tlie
 
 LA XI) ■JOrRNEV OF (AI'TAlX HACK 6( 
 
 bare rocks, {(^w could sleep amid the comfort (jf our new 
 accouuuodations. 1 \\'a> m\'seli' compelled to leave the Ijed 
 which had been kiudl\' assiiiiied me, and take my abode in 
 a chair for the nitiht, nor did it fare much better with the 
 re<t. It was foi' time to reconcile us to this sudden and 
 violent cluuij::e, to break through what had l)ecome liabit, and 
 inui-e u> once more io the usa<i('s of our h)rmer days." 
 
 After {i\-e yeaiv iu the Ai'ctic, Captain Iloss and liis crew 
 were h(Jme^\•al■d bound, carrying witii th(-m a record un- 
 j)recedeu''c(l in Arctic Ihstory. Boothia Felix had \)C(-\\ 
 di.-cov('re(l: tiie connecting isthmus had been crosse(l \o the 
 mainland of Aiuerica and ex])lorati(jns made- in the dircH'- 
 tinn of bi-anklin Pa>sage, A'ictoria Strait, and King AVilliani 
 Sound; the .Auignetic P(jle liad been located; and a series of 
 most valual)le observa.ti(jns kept during tlie entire period. 
 
 Previous To his ai'rival iu Eudand. tlie pr(donged aljsenco 
 of Ca])taiu Pioss had cau-e(l gi'cat anxi(-ty t(.) his coimtrymen, 
 and, although liis ex])e(liti(.»n had been a ])rivate affair in no 
 vray comiecled witli the Adnhi-alty, the goverument never- 
 tliele>s felt il to be a national concern tliat his fate and that 
 of tlu' ci-ew should b(> ascertained if ])(jssil)le. 
 
 Sul)-ci'i])tions werr^ I'aised to ])i'omote a relief expedition, 
 liberal!}' add'-d to from ihe ]:iublic trea>ury. and an expedition 
 fittcil out in charge of ( 'a])taiu Ihick. who had voluntt.^ei'ed his 
 sei'viees. accom])a!rie!l by the surgeon an.d naluralist, Dr. 
 Pvichard Kin;.':. A\"nh thi'ee men, th(>y left Li\'ei'])()ol. Fel)- 
 ruai'y 17, \S.\'.]. on a ]")acke1-shij) boun ! foi' X(■^\■ \ork, where 
 tliev l;md(-d aftei' a rouu'li voyage of ll,ii1y-fi\'f' days. F''om 
 X(•^\■ York lhey went to iMonii-eal, where lhey -ecure<l iour 
 more vohnslecrs from the IJoyal Arl iller\' Tui'ijs and some 
 olher a>>i-1anls. and embarla'd on The S1 . ba^vrence in lW(j 
 cano(<. ?dakin'i.' a bri"f .-tot) a.1 Sank Ste. Marie-, for the 
 ])uri)o-e of ])n.rcjia>iim' a lliii'd canoe, bae}' direct(>d their 
 course to the noithein sh(M'(,'s of bake Su|)erior.
 
 (')8 
 
 THE (;iiKAT wiriTi-: .vo/.-yv/ 
 
 On :\ray 20, Ihcy ;irriv(Ml ;it Fort ^\■illi:ull. V^y 1lic fifst 
 w(H'k in June, liic canoes reached Foil Alexaiidej' at llie 
 soulhei'n ext I'einily of Lake V\'iiuiij)(\a;. ('oa^linii; this lak(\, 
 Caplain i'ack made for Norway House, where he scnaired liis 
 fuH coni])lenieiil of nu^n, ei!i,hleen hi ah, and lhey slai'ted hi 
 ]i\\s\\ spirils for T'ort Picsohation, ihe easlern shoi'e of the 
 (ireat Shi\'e Lake. Idie chief annoyance exiierienced on 
 this lou!),' cano(> trip was the torment from myriads of sand- 
 fhes and mosciuitoes, of wliich ('a])tain IJack writes: — 
 
 "How can I ])ossii)ly ,i;,ive an idea, of the torment we eii- 
 (hiired from the sand-fhes ? As we (h\'ed in1o the confined 
 and siih'ocatiii.u' chasms, t!iey rose in ch)uds, acluaJly dariv- 
 eninii,' thic air; to see or to speak \vas ('(juaHy dhhcuh, i'or 
 t he>' I'ushed at ev(>ry undeh'nded part, and (ixe(I their poi.-^oii- 
 ous fani;,s in an instant. Our faces streamed with iiiooih as 
 if leeches had l)e(>n ap])he(h ;uid there was a hurniiiii; and. 
 irril at iiiti,' pain, h)h()wed hy immeiliate iidhimimit ion. and 
 ])ro(hicii!,t;' .<;iddiness, which ahnost (h'()\'e us mad, and caused 
 us to moan with pain and ap)ny." 
 
 .\ftei' securinu; aU possilde information from the Iinhaiis 
 and olhei's, relatix'e to the course of the iiorth( rii rix'ers of 
 which he wa< in searcli, Captain P)ack dlx'ided liis parly. 
 Lea\in,ii' se\'era! under t he escort of Ah'. ALd.i'od. an employee 
 of the ILidson I'ay ( 'ompany. he proceeded wiiii h)ur mi n 
 in seai'cli of the (Ireat l'"i.-h Lixcr, hitei' iiame(l alter iJac'v 
 him-;'h'. 
 
 Oil Aii'j.u-^l l-K Oaptain P.nck l)ei!:aii tiie a^c(a)t of th.e IIo;ir 
 I'Vo>1 h!i\-er, and made lii-- lahorioiis way lh''oU',:h wcods, 
 swamp-, c:i-c;idr<. ;iiid r;ip!d>. I'Veiii the ^-wminil oi :'■ lii^h 
 hill, l', !''s di-ci)\ ci'cd. ;i h";,u, il'iii l;i k' '. si udd.cd wi;h l,d:!ud<, 
 to wliii'!: !h' ■'::i\-c 1 !ii' r,;iiiic nf .\ylmer Lake. ;ifler 1 he l.': 'X'l •rnor- 
 U"iier;d oi' ( 'mi.'id.-i ;il ihiit liiii.'. Sdiu" of hi^ men were de- 
 sp;il ■'■iii'd 1 o i!i\-('--l i;r:i1 (■ llii- iMke. ;:Md hi ihur nh-eiice r'ai'lv 
 ;ircidtMl -lly di-.'n\cr;'d ih" --.i!irce of ll;^' i'i\-i'r which they 
 h;n I ;i-cciii In 1. in S:iiid I !ili i ..-ike.
 
 LAyJ) JornXhT OF ( APTAIX HACK GO 
 
 " I'oi' this occnslon," 1h> wi'itcs, "1 hud r('s(M'V(Hl ;i little 
 ^roii, ami need hanily sa\ with what cluM'ti'ulucss it was 
 shared ainoiii!; the ei-(n\', whose weleoiiu^ tidinti's had ViM'itied 
 the notion oi' Dr. Pdeliardsou and niyseli', and thus jjlaeed 
 beyond doui)t the exist(>nee of the l'hleu-(>e-ehoh, or (!reat 
 Fish liivei'.'" 
 
 Ah)vin,u- on, t he\' foinul it was iinpossil)l(> to iiavij^at(^ ^lusk- 
 Ox Lake in their iVail canoes, owina; to the h)ret' of the ra])ids. 
 lie;ieliin,<2,' ('linton (!ol<leu Ljd-:e, they met witli some friendly 
 Indians. At ('at or Aililh'i'y Lalvc the canoes wer(> al)an- 
 doned, and the rt>st of their I'eturn journey was made on h)ot 
 o\'(M' jiorp's. ra\'ines, and ])i'eei{)itous rocl;s, where a false 
 step would ha\'(> ])ro\'ed hital. 
 
 r])on rc^achini;- I'^ort lvehanc(\ they found AFr. AIcLeod 
 had eiT-cted the framewoi'k of tlu'ii' winter (juarters. All 
 hands innuediately tui'iied. to, and by tlie -"^th of XovcmuIxm' 
 the}' exchatrti'ed their cold tents foi' tlie n.ioi'e hos])itable abod(\ 
 Th.e A\-inter now s(t in with, unusual se\-erit\'. The unfor- 
 tunate Indians of thi> localit\' c;une daily to the canrp and 
 implored food foi' ti'emseh'es and th(>ii' stai'vin,ti i'amilies. 
 " l''a)nine witli hei' uaunt ar.d bony arm,"" wiites l-Jack, "pur- 
 suei! them at ex'ery tui'U, witliered tlieii' enei'i:,'ies, an^d strewed 
 them lifele.-s on tjie cold bosom of tlie >now. 
 
 "it was impo<sii)l(e to lu'Voi'd, r'^lief to all, and th(> ])oor 
 creatm-es would .-land I'ound while tlie in(Mi were takinji; tlieir 
 meal-, wall hiuu e\-e!'y mouihl'ul with \\\v mo-t pitiful, ini])lor- 
 inu; look, but n(>\-er ultei'in.u' a wor'i ^.^i comjilaint. Seated 
 I'ouiid 1 tie lire, t'ley would, ta!<e luts of 1 hei:- reindeer li'.arnuMits, 
 ro;i-tm,u' the-e and eau'ei'ly dex'ourinii' them. A h'W hand- 
 tub of iuoujdy penunican intended foi' the doy,s, was recei\-ed 
 with uTatit ud(\ 
 
 ■'<)fien." adds I'jick. "did I .-Icu'e my o\\'n ])late \\'ith the 
 childi'en W'ho-e heli)Ie-< -tale and ])ileou- ci'ies wei'(> ])ecul- 
 iai'ly di-tres-mii': conu>;i.s>ion for the full-ui'own ma\', or
 
 TO 
 
 THE (.BEAT WHITE X OUT II 
 
 may nol, bo felt, hut that heart must be cased in steel wliich is 
 insensible to the cr}' of a child h)V fo(^d.''" 
 
 On .lanuai'}' 17 the theimometer stood at ~(f l)elow zero. 
 Of this exireme cold ( 'aptain Jiack writes : — 
 
 "Such indeed was tlu; abstraction of heat, that with eight 
 larti'c lo.ii's of dr\' wood on the fire, 1 c(juhl nol .get the ther- 
 mometer ihglu'r tiian i'l' below zvio. Ink and ])aint fr(jze, 
 the sexlant cases and boxes (jf seasoned wood, ])rincipally 
 fir, all spht. ddi(- ,-kin of the hands b(,'came dry, ci'ackeih and 
 0])ened into m)>igtilly, smartinir gaslies, A\'hich Ave wei'e 
 obliged to anoint with grease. On (jne occa~;ion after washing 
 my fac(' williin tlirfc feet of the lire, my hair wa-^ actually 
 clotted wi'ih ice before I had lime to dr\' it.'"' 
 
 Had it not bcf'i! fo.v the liniel\' a---islanc(^ o[ Akaitcho, a 
 fi'iendly Indian c'nef who had ari'ivedi with a >;i!)pl\' of men 
 and who brought biiciu game, t!:cir suffering.-- mighl ha\'e 
 had a dis;!-! rou- endin-j;, bu1 ihis old brave expre.--ed his s( uti- 
 men1- in llic noble words : - - 
 
 '■The great chiel' 1 r;i--1> us, and it i- belle!' that ten lufliaiis 
 peri-h than one white man >houid ])eri>h tlii'ough oui- negli- 
 g(-nee and bl'eaeh of fait ki." 
 
 A\ ith tlie appi'o.acli of spring, ("a])lain Vr.uAi l)egan ])re])ara- 
 tion- tor hi- iiit (!!< led journey to 1 h'' .-ea-coa-t . but on Ajjri! '!■) 
 a nu '--en '.■,(■]■ Mrrix'ed with tlie wek'onie new- thai 0;,pt;!in 
 \\()-< anil the -!ir\-i\-()r.- of the I'/V/e;'// \\-ere alix'e ;nid liad 
 a!'r!\-"d -a'Vly in Iki'd.uid. l-ix1r;;ew iVdm ike I'inii-- and 
 ][: ri:l I wi-v -kiiwn ('.loiain I'ack to e()!n'irni the new-. 
 
 nnie-- ol our keaii-, we a--e 
 
 ;' r 
 
 and hnmbh 
 
 d:- I,; that nieivilnl !'re\!. 'enee, M-ki(w, in 
 ua:a' of I'lc Srript lU'e, hath sai'k ' Mine 
 ■:Mn. a- I d.iil -oine time iVoni tlie deep- of 
 
 o_;e!'e' ! i: M ( inr 
 
 I'le bcailtifiil ! 
 
 ()\\ n Will [ 1 )r;n 
 
 the -ea.' Tlie 1 JKiU'.di'; - of -o wijiidefful ;i iif(<ef\"at ion over- 
 jMiww'i'd I'ot- a 'iiief- t' <■ eo!!iinoii o'-furrenc"- of iifia \\ e had 
 ju-t -at down i o ' >iva! i;i-l : bnt our ajjui-t it e wa- uone, and 1 he
 
 VICTORIA LAND 71 
 
 day was ])asse(l in a fcvcn-ish state of oxcitcincMit. Seldom, 
 indeed, did my i'riend Mi\ ]\in,u; or I indnlii;e in a libation, l)iit 
 on This jo\iul occasion, economy was forgotten, a treat was 
 givcni to the mcMi, and for oiu'sc^ves the social sym])atliies 
 were qiuniclu^d hy a ,i2;eiuM'ous howl of |)nnch." 
 
 The four months sjx'nt in i\\v remarkahhe journ(\v of Cap- 
 tain Back and his nuai to the Polar Sea are one continual 
 rcH'ital of liaii'hi'eatltli escapes in the falls, ra})ids, and cata- 
 racts of 1lu> Tlileu-ee-clioh, and of \\\v incrc^dihle sufferinf^ 
 and liardship l)ra\'ely endru'ed by all hands. In descril)ini^ 
 on(> of tluar narrow esca])es, where tlu^ boat was obli,a,(Ml to be 
 lightencHl to shoot the I'apids, ('a.ptain Ixicls. vrrites : — 
 
 "T sto(Ml on a hiti'h rock, with an anxious li(>art, fo see her 
 run it. Away they went with tlu^ s])eed of an ai'row, and in a 
 moment, the foam and rocks hid tliem from vicnv. I heard 
 what sounded in my ear like a wild slu'iek ; I followed with an 
 aiiitalion which may ])v conc(nve(l, autl to my in(^x])ressible 
 joy, found tlutt the slu'iek was lhe trium])haut v.iioo]! of the 
 crew, who had huuuMJ safely iti a snuiU bay below." 
 
 On the 2l)1h. wliile thrc^adin.sj; th(>ir course^ down the great 
 i'i\'er. they saw lunallands to the north \\iiich gav(> them the 
 assurance tlini the coast w;is uot far disiant. To this majestic 
 ))r()monto!'y, I'ack ga\'e tlu^ nanu^ Mctoria. 
 
 "This tlieu."" he wi'ites. "uiay lu' considia'CMJ as the mouth 
 of the Thleu-cc-clioh. ^\iuch afi(>r a, violeut and tortuous coiu'se 
 o;' [\yv hmidrcMl :uid ihirly gcogi-ajjhical mil(\s, running thi'ough 
 an ii'on !'ibb(>d couuti-y, witliout a singh^ triH' on the whole line 
 of its ba,nl-.s, exi)anding iu1o five bu'ge lakes, with clear hoi'izon 
 mo-t embai'rassing to tb.e na\"iga1or, and broken into falls, 
 cascades, aud ra])ids, to tiie numbta' of (-ig]!t\'-t iu'ee in the 
 'wliol(\ ])ours its waltM' into the Polar Sea, in latiiude (iT"^ 1 1/ X., 
 and longitude 01° ;>()' \\'., tiiat is lo sa>', a.bout 1 !iirly-M>\'cn 
 miles more south than lhe inoulli of (he ( 'oi)j)ermiiic l\i^■er, 
 a.iul nincleen niih^s more south Hum ihal ol' l)a.ck"s Jvivtu', at 
 i1h' lower exi remit \ of I'.athhursi 's lulel."
 
 VV//-; CHEAT WIIITK XOHTIf 
 
 llic followin,;;- days wci'c a succc^ssion of iiicrcdihlc har(lslii])s, 
 ihc rcsiih of llic (hunp wcalticr, llic Ijurrcnncss of ihc coast, 
 ajid the soft snow and siush into which th(> men ])]unii;('d kncc- 
 dccp at vvvvy st(^j). No fire could he H<;'ht('d, and in consc- 
 (jucncc they had no means of sccurin,ii; wai'nith or cooked food ; 
 the in(Mi h(>cani(^ l()W-s{)it'ite(l and disc()urai2,'e(L 'Vlw country 
 \vas fhit and desohit(^, an " ii're^iihir ])hun of sand and stones ; 
 and had it not been for a riU of wat(M', the nieanderini;' of 
 which reheved the monotony of the sterile scene, one mi,ii;ht 
 ha\'e fancied one's :^oU in one of the ])arche(l ])lains of the I^a^t , 
 rather than on the shore oi' the Arctic Sea." 
 
 AFakin.u,' a luM'oic advance, l^ack discovered and namcMl 
 Point ()<^le and Point Richai'dson, cau,<;'ht a sia,iit of Poothia 
 J'\'lix, and then lia.vin,^?; rcviched lalitud(> ()S° I'.V oT" X., lon.u'i- 
 tud(> 9f° 08' \" \\., he unfurhnl the l^,ritish f!a,<;- and took 
 formal possession in th(^ nams^ of His Majesty, Wiiiium I\', 
 amid tli(> (enthusiast ic cheei's of his comrad(>s. d'he\' left tlic 
 cold Arctic shores the middle of Au!i,ust, and not until the 17th 
 of Se])teml)er did they meet Mr. McL<-od at Sand.y Hill ])ay, 
 accoi'dinji' to a])i)oint ment , and ^vith him reached Poi't Pe- 
 liance on t he 27th. 
 
 A s(H'ond wintei' was ])ass{Ml in the wild(M'ii(>ss of the inhos- 
 pitable north, d(^\'oted by P)ack and Dr. !\in,!i,; to wi'itinii; their 
 journals, mapi)in,i;' their (lisc(>\'ei'i(>s, and arraiviiin.i;' their 
 scientific (lata, the ci'ew occupyin<>; tlKMUsehi^s in lumtinL;' and 
 fisihnii exptnht ions. 
 
 'i'he \i\M (if March, ( 'aMi;iii! I'ack, ha\"inu left instructions 
 foi' l)i'. Kinj.i to proceed as soon as the weathei' would perniit 
 to the roiiip.'niy's factory ;i1 Hudson l>aw t hei'(> to em!);u'k 
 lor fjc'laiid in t heir spi-inir ship-. )ii'ocee(!(Ml through ('anada, 
 ;iiid by \\'a\' oi' New 'bork to I'jiu'l.anil. wiiei'e h(> ;n'!'i\'e(| .at. 
 l.ix'erpool th;" Mh of Septcmbci-. I )r. ixiim' I'e.acheil I'Jmi.aiid 
 a nioiil h l;il "v. 
 
 [•'or this rciii.irkable di-co\-er\' an.d \'o\\au'e down 1 he ( b'e.at
 
 snrrsox axd dkase 73 
 
 V\>\i Ivivcr, Cuptain Back nM'civcHl from the Royal (J(>o- 
 <.!;rai)liical Society ihcir Koyal ])rciniuni (a ,<;'ol(l medal). In 
 is;!.") he was knighted, having already had the congratulations 
 and a])])rol)ali()n of Mis Majesty, the King. 
 
 The following \'ear Captain Back made another Arctic 
 vo>'ag(>, in command of \hv shi]) Terror, u]) Hudson Strait. 
 Unfortunately the ship got fast in the ice off Cajx' Comfort, 
 and there remaincMl at the mercy of the destructive ice-])ack 
 through a dreary winter until the following July. She had 
 become so disabled that she was barely ecjual to crossing the 
 Atlantic, but the ndurn voyage was f(jrtunat(>ly accomplished 
 in safety. 
 
 In 183() the Hudson Bay Company, desiring to comj^lete 
 th(> sm'vey of their nortlu^rn territories, es]:)ecially the coast- 
 line of Arctic America, sent out two of their employees, 
 Dease an.d Simpson, with a pai'ty of twelv(^ men. 
 
 Descending the Mackenzie^ Pdver to the sea, they sin'V(n'ed 
 the w(>stward shore-line between Return Reef and Ca])e 
 ]^)ai'row. '[\vi) large rivers wer(> discovc^red, th(> Carry and 
 ( "()le\'ille. Though the scvison was midsunnner, the ground 
 ^\'as fro.'aMi, and northeast (M'ly winds made progress very 
 1 1'ying. 
 
 By the 1st of August, further na\'igati(>n ]iroved imjirac- 
 ticabU' ami, dividing the ]iart\', .'^in)])S()n. with sonu^ of tlu^ 
 men. contiiuicd the journ(\\' on foot, and n(>ase remained with 
 the- re>l of the crew in charge of the boats. Sim])son fell in 
 \vii!i l^>kim()s. of whom he hired an oomiak, a large can()(\ to 
 aid him a> occasion demanded. A few days later he writes: — 
 
 "I saw with indescribabl(> emotions Point Bari'ow stretch- 
 in.': (un lo the noi'iliward an.d enclosing I'.lson ]);iy. near the 
 I'oiioiii of wlucl! \\-(' \\'('i-(" now." biculcnant Plson h.aving 
 been in ciiarii;!' of the ninssani's barge ^\'hi(•h r(\aclied this 
 " i'.-u'l hoC in iS'Jf). r])on llic I'elurn of Simpson tlie i)arty 
 look tip wlnicr (iiiarler> a1 ( ireat Pear Lake.
 
 I 
 
 'iiii: (;i:EAT ]viiitk xoirni 
 
 The fi)!l()wiii<i- .luiK' t lic\' (icscfiidcil the ( '()])pormin(', wh(T(>, 
 in -hooliliu' the r;i])iil>. llic\' "luui To ])ull I'nr tJicir live-, to 
 keep oU' of liio .-ilrlioii of the pr!-cij)ic( ■-, alollU' Avho.-U ba-c tlic 
 l)!'oakcr> I'au'cil and foaiiK-il, with lA'cruiifhiiiim- fury. Shoji ly 
 bcfor(- iiooii. we caiiic in >iu'hl of l-l-ca]«' lia[)ii!. of Fi'a.nklin : 
 auil a uiaiirc at llic o\'crlian,uiii,2,' clift'- loM u> tliaT tlici'c was 
 no ahcniali\'(' kiiiT To run down with full cai-ii'o. "' ""In an 
 irr-tani,"' continue- Sinip-on, "we wi'r(- in the \'ortcx : a.nd, 
 iM'l'orc we were aware, my l)(jat \va- koriie towaril an i>olated 
 rock, wliicli the lioijiii^- -ni'.ii'c ahno.-t conci'aledt. To clear 
 it (HI the oulsiile AVa- no loim'er ])(}-,-il)le : oui' only chance of 
 ,-afety wa- to I'un Ix-twec'ii il and tlie lot'iy ea-tei'u cliff. The 
 Won! wa- ])a--ed and e\-e!'y l.'reath wa- hu.-he(l. A >tr(-ani 
 which d:i-!ie(l doAvn upon u- o\'er the hi'ow of the ])reci])ice. 
 more than one hun'li-ed feet in heiuTt. minii'led wiih tlie .-pi'ax' 
 thai whirledi upwai'di- i'r. iiu 'he ra]">id. form in Li' a ter;-ific -hower- 
 hath. The ])a-- A\';i-^ ah^iUl (•iii'ht feet wide, and tlie cri'ni- (if 
 a .-iiai'le foot on (■itljef -.-iJ.c wmiid ha\'e keen in-taiit de.-1 i'uc- 
 tion. .\-. u'uidedi iiy .-^inclaii''- consummate -kill, the koat 
 .<hot ^afely throuiih those jaw- of death, an in\'oluntary cheer 
 arii-f. 
 
 "Hur U'-xt im])eike wa- to turn round, u> \^l<^\' the fate of 
 our i-Mmr;:di(- kehind. Th''\' had, prehM'd k\' the jx-rh \\-e 
 in''uri'''< 1. ami lo'i'.t without the treachernir- ruck in time." 
 
 [k"rdi\- had they i-.eT,.! die cia-t kehire lh(-\- WelV -topi)ed 
 ky the i.,.. a!id hoM,.!,.~Jy d.-lcyed man\- day-. The -ra-en 
 Wa- rajiid!;/ ;id\'anc;iiL':, and \'et no real w«uk h;id kct n a'^cnm- 
 pii-h 'd. 'Ml the _'(nti i,f AuLLU-t. ."^imo-'in ;jM'! -•'/:■!! men 
 >tarti'd nn a t-n d;i\"-' walk 
 
 l>r, ,.rr; -. \\-;i- k, 
 
 ]].!■■. vir.r'in:} ;ra e!.-\-a' '■' 1 caoe, I teyou' I wn;c!i iur!'>''r ])r(>L!.re-s 
 Wa- ;i; ii '! ,-dhi>'. ' 'f thi- -'■eu- Simo-ou write- : - 
 
 "1 ■.- ■•U'l'd ;!,•■ lej_ht. friim v:hr]]r,- a \-a-t and -itletidid 
 i»rM'ii- :.:;r-' - .dd'-nk' uoon ni-'. dd,e ^ea. a^ if t I'an-fi irnnil 
 
 tot 'le ea-t warU 111 Iv.iat lia\-eii 
 'ihicihl ;i![d di-i'eU!;iU-ini:-. ' Ml the '2'-]'
 
 RA E S () ] 'EHLA X D JO I 'R XE Y i D 
 
 ])}- ('iicluuitiiu-nt, rolled its free wavers at my fcc^t, and boyond 
 the I'cach (jf \'i>d()n to the eastward. Islands of \'ari(jiis s}ia])(\s 
 and sixes overspread its surface, and the northern land ter- 
 minated to the eye in a Ijold and lofty ca])(^, bewaring cad- 
 iujiili((isf. thirty or idrty miles distant, while the continental 
 coci.-t trended away scjutheast. I st(Jod, in fact, on a remark- 
 able lu^adland, at the eastern (jutl(^t of an ice-obstructed 
 strait. On the extensive land to the nijrthward, I bestcAved 
 the name of our most <i'racious sovereign, (^uec-n \'ictoria. 
 Its eastern visible (extremity I called ('a])e Pelly, in comple- 
 m(^nt of the governor of the Hudson Bay Company." 
 
 In ISoU, Simj)-on and Dease made a moi-e suceessful jour- 
 ney. The ice conditions being bc'tter. they sailfni through 
 the strait tliat separates \'ictoria Land from tlu^ mainland. 
 They ])ushed on to Simj)S(jn Strait, which di\'id('S Boothia 
 from the mainland, and latei- doubled Point Ogle. U]xjn 
 rc^aching Montreal Island in Back's Estuary, they fcjund 
 certain ])rovisions left there l)y ("a])tain Ijack fivc^ y(>a!"s 
 before. On the 2.")th of Augiist, bS')l). tlu=y erected a cairn at 
 their fartlu-st ])oint near ('a])e Ilei'scliel. 
 
 !-ix]iloi-iiig ]')() miles of the siiui'es of \'ict(,>r!a Land as far as 
 ('a])e Pari'y and the l)a\'s of A\'eIllii,gton. Cambridge, ;uid 
 I)yi'on. lh(\\' cros-cd ( 'pronation ( bilf and finaJly reentei'ed the 
 ( 'o])]")ermine Bi\'cr. afl'-r a \'()\'age of moi'e than biOO miles in 
 the Pohii' Sea. l'"or liis rem,ar]vabl,' achi('\'emen1s. Sim])<on 
 was awai'ded tlie l-\)Uiid(a-"s Cold MedaJ of the li'ayal ( leo- 
 gra])hi'ail Society of Loudon. 
 
 In ISb). tlie Ilud-on P.ay Company fitted oirf" another 
 ex])edilion to be stait into \\\r- firld I'oi- t!ie ]iur])o<e of survy- 
 irm- the northeast coruia' of the Amtricaiu mainl;uid ; the 
 mouth oi' tlie ( 'astoi' ;nid Pollux to tlie C.ulf of Akkr,|e(\ so as 
 to link t!a' d:scov(a-i'\ of Oeasf' and Sim])son and thos(> of the 
 secon'l voya.ues of Ho— ; and Parry. 
 
 An (an])lo\'ee of the com])any. Dr. .lolni [{ae, was chostai for
 
 H) 
 
 TilK GilEAT nilJIK \()i;Tll 
 
 this ])Uii)(»s(' and i)u1 in comniand of iwclvc men. Dr. Ha<' 
 is (lc>ci-ii)Cil as a man ol unnsnal altainincms, a suriiCdn, 
 a>1 rononici', an ai)l(' .-tccrsnian ; ('(jinl liniuii' with his aliiiitics 
 t'cii- Icadcrslii)) tlic acconiplislnncnts of a first-rate snow-shoe 
 walker and dead shot . 
 
 Aftei' a canoe ti'i]) of two months' (hiration, tlie ])arty 
 ai'rixcd at \ oi'k Faetor}' eai'ly in ()etot)er. Hei'e they ])a-sed 
 the winter. an«h as sooil as the weat hei' \\'ould ])ermit, set .-ail 
 in two l)oa1s, and skilled the shores of Ilndson I5ay. 
 
 At Foi't ( "hurchill the\ found nati\-es enu'a^ed in (•a])lurin,u; 
 white whales, vrhich make their way to thes(> A\'aters. ddiey 
 secured the services of two l^skimos. lather and son, ()oh,<i;- 
 buck by name, who accompanied the expedition as inter- 
 preters. 
 
 In ])a-sin.u- Chesterfield Inlet. the\' heard the urunt inu' and 
 Ix'llowinji' of wah'uses. "makinua noise," says Ihac. "which [ 
 fancy would nnicli I'oemhlc a concert of old hoar- and huifa- 
 loes." At Hepuhlic Wiiv lliry houuhl >eal>kin h.oots fi'om the 
 l^>kinio-, and of the incidenl iiac says. "(Ineof our female 
 \'i.-ilor< took them out o!' m\' hand-, and heuan ciiewinu' thrni 
 wilh her -ironii te('lh, for 1 he pinpo.^e of s, iftenin,ii; up tiie 
 le;t1 lii'l-." 
 
 Ih-oi'eiMrmt:' on their 1oi!-ome joui'liey, t hey li'aced the coast 
 from hord Maxoi' l-Jay lo wii hin leii mile- of [-"ury and Ilecla 
 Sl i';iil-, c()t!iirmiitu' ( 'ai)1ain l\os< in his >iatemcn1 1 lia1 l-)ool liia 
 \\a.- a |)enin-ula ; an<l no1 I'ei iirnimi' 1o \'ork l'"aclor\' unlil 
 S<'pleml)er. h^l7. 
 
 'idieii' IniiLi' wini CI' wa- spfiii ;ii jh'pul-i' k*);iy. wliere liiey 
 liiiih ;! -lone !iou-e ;ind pi'ocuri'tl pr(j\'i-ions hy hunlinu,' and 
 li-lnnu'. I )r. Ih'ic. heinu' .•m cxcelliMi 1 -Ik i1 , .-ecurc(l in i me d;i>' 
 ;i- tiumx ;i- -e\'cn i\fcv wiiliin 1 w o mile- of ihcir -holier. 
 In "III- mniiili of Scpicinl iei\ -i\1y-lhrec <\frv. Wvf hai'f'-. one 
 -I'; 1 1, oiic iiiiudi'id ;ind -i'\('Ul \'-l wi ) p;ii'1 ridiiv. ;iiid i rue liundroi 1 
 and -ixo'cn -aim on and 1 1'oul wrrc ,-ccm'('d. Wv i i.c middle of
 
 /M/;,S OVKIILAXB JOrilNKV ~i 
 
 ()ct()i)(>r the (1(MM' became scarce, but two hundred i^artridge.s 
 were scH'ureil. also a few salmon, so that by the time all game 
 had migrated, they had a fairly well-stocked larder. How- 
 vvvw th(^ ([Uestion of fuel was a vexing one, as th(>re was no 
 wood To s]K^ak of, but the capture of two seals supplied them 
 with oil for their lamps. 
 
 Toward February it was found necessar}' to limit the men 
 to one meal a da\'. 
 
 As the s])riiig advanccMl, they made a series of journeys. 
 Of these l^i'. i^ae descril)(>s making camp after a fatiguing 
 d;iy"s travel : -— 
 
 '"Our Tisual mode of ]ir(^]')aring lodgings for th(^ night was 
 as follows : As -^oon as we luid selecteil a s]:)ot for om' snow- 
 h()us(\ our }']skimos, ;i>siste(l by one or more of the men, com- 
 menc(Ml culting out l)lo('ks of snow. WIkmi a sufficient num- 
 b(M' of th(>se had b(M'n rai>(Hl, the builder commenced his work, 
 his assistants su])])l>'ing him wiih material. A good roomy 
 dwelling was tlius raised in an hour, if ilie snow was in a good 
 state for building. W'liibt our ])rincipal mason was tlnis 
 occui)ied, anoiher oi' the ])arty was busy (a-ecting a kitchen, 
 whicli, although our cooking was none of the most delicate 
 or exten-ive. was still a necc^ssary addition to our establish- 
 m(ait. had it biM'u onl}' to thaw snow. As soon as the snow- 
 hiut was c()!n])let(Ml. our sledges w(a'(^ unloaded, and every 
 eatable dncludinii' parchment-s]<^in and moose-skin shoes, 
 which had l)ec()me now fa\'orite articl(\s with the flogs) taken 
 in>itle. Om" bed was next made, and. by tlie time the snow 
 was ihawf^d or tlie watei' boiled, as the case migh.t be. we were 
 all read>' for su]i])(a'. Wluai we used .alcohol for fuel (which 
 we usually <lid in stormy weallier* no kitchen wa< rc'Ciuired." 
 
 Aflia' da\'s of exi^osui'e and harilshiji. Di'. Hae wi'ites : — 
 
 ■A\'e A\-ei'<> again on ihe niai'ch. and arrix'cd at our home at 
 !);ilr pa>1 eig!i1 P.M.. all well, but >o black and scarred on the 
 fac<-, fi'oin the combined effcM'ts of oil. smoke-, and fi'ost -bites.
 
 '8 
 
 77/A' CHEAT nilllE .XORTH 
 
 iliat our iViciuls woiild not liclicvc l)u1, t.luit soiiio sorioiis acci- 
 dent iVoiii the explosion of .gunpowder had hap])ened to us. 
 ddius successfully lenuinaled a joiu'iiey liUle shor1 of six 
 hundred I'ji,u,lish miles, ihe longest, 1 beHcN'c^, ever made on 
 fool alona; the Arctic coasl." 
 
 Of another flip made in May, Dr. lia(Mvrites : — 
 ''Our journey liitliei'to liad l)een the nujst fatiii;uini;' I had 
 ever ex])ei'ienced; the sevei'c exercise, with a limit(-d alUnvance 
 of food, had reduced the whole ])a!'t\' very much. Ilowevei', 
 we inarched m(M'ril\' on, 1 i(;hteni!i,ii' our hells, - niin(^ came in 
 SIX inches, - tlie men xowin.a,' that A\"}ien they ji'ot on full allow- 
 ance they would make u]) for lost lime." 
 
 \W tli{> ia.-t ol' Au.uust, IS 17, the ])ar1y returned lo civili- 
 zation, wIkm'c Dr. IJac \\'as aA\'ai'ded four lumdi-ed ])ounds by 
 the Hudson ]^ja\' ( 'ompany h)r his impoi'lan! sei'\"ices.
 
 CHAPTER \1 
 
 Sir John Franklin. — I^arly lif<\ — First luiid (expedition of FS19-FS2F 
 — .Journey IVom York Factory to C'unil)erlan(l llouec. — Pvcach 
 Fort Pr()\'idcnce. — Winter at Fort IJitc^rpi'ist'. — Fxplorations. 
 -oooU miles. -- llard.<hij). — Star\-ation. — PLeturn. — Second 
 land journey. — ]S2o. — \\'ai1er ([uartei's at Clnat J>ear Pake. — 
 Descent of the ^Mackenzie Piiver to the Polar Sea. — 12(J0 miles of 
 coast added to map. — Th.e last journey of Sir John Franklin, 
 1S45. — The Ere iis and Terror. — Last seen in AP'lville Pay. 
 
 Xo name liolds inoro ronumlie association with Arctic 
 lii-toi->' than that of Sir John I'^rankhn. AMiat a career, wluit 
 1()\'(' of adventure, \\'hat luirdshijis endtnxMl with heroic for- 
 titude, what l(\idcrship tliat could ins])ii-o otlua's to ])assionate 
 l()\'ahy. and su])ei'hunian (auhu'ance inider ims])eakalde trials, 
 and vvhat a falc ! 
 
 Pet us I'eA'iew bi^ii^hy a life that stands in thc^ foremost 
 ran.!; t)f na\"al historx', not so nnich Fy ,u'r(\at a(Piievenient. as 
 l)y tliat ])articular cliarni of (Piaractei', indefinahle and subtle^ 
 that is l)as(Ml on those ureat ([Ualities of tolerance, jtistice, 
 lo\'alty, siuiplieit}'. and warm affection-;. 
 
 John Fraidvlin, the x'ouniiest son of tAV(d\'(> childrcm. was 
 horn in the small m,;irk(d town of Spil.vFy, Pincolns!iirf\ .\])ril 
 ]('). ITSC). He \v;i> (^arK' destined for tlie church and (^ducated 
 at St. [v(>s, and later at Louth (".ramnuir School. A holiday 
 ja\ui1 with a \-ounti' com]nmion. twth'O n)ile- to the shores of 
 \\[c Xoi'th S(\'i. with its ovei'wheliniim' .urandour. chanced his 
 career :\nd d(M'id(Hl liim foi' the life of a sailor. 
 
 Tlie shi'ewd old father, with lli.'it acute knowledu'e of tlie 
 short -hvcnl enthusiasms of youth, i)ut him to test, and at four- 
 
 79
 
 80 TlIK an EAT WHITE X OUT II 
 
 toeii y(nirs of a,<i-(' youn*;- John served on ;i mcrchantnian 
 bound for Lisbon. rndaun1e(l by ihc liai'd fxM'th of a sailor 
 lad. we find him in ISOI on the (luartci'-dcck of ihc Poii- 
 phiinus, inidcr C "aplain banford, leading- in line at the batlle 
 of ('o])enhajicn, Lord Xelson's hardest fought battle. 
 
 His iron will, ever more firm in its determination for a life 
 of adventure, secured him later a beilh in the discovery shi]) 
 Inrcstii/dlor. ex])loring the coast of Australia, wluMx^ Franklin 
 acciuired valuable astronomical and surveying skill under his 
 able relativ(>, ('a])tain Flinders. 
 
 Transferred lo the Porpoise, which, in com^iany wilh the 
 Cato, was wrecked on a coral reef off tlu> coast of Ausiralia. 
 August LS, 1803, the lad, with on(> hundred and fifty others, 
 S])ent fiit\' days on a stri]) of sand only four h'et a])ove water. 
 ('aj)lain Flinders, after making his way 2r)0 blagues to I'oii 
 Jackson in an o])en boat, rescued his coni])anions. I''i'anklin 
 finally reacluMi Canton, whei-e lie secured ]-)as.-age lo 1-aigland 
 in the Eorl (.'oiii(hii, l-^ast-Luliaman, under Sir Nathaniel 
 Dance, connnodore of the ( 'liina fleet. 
 
 An engagenuMit \\ith the French s(|uadi'()n occurrinl in 
 February'. ISOf. at which }-oung I'Vanklin I'cp.dereil \-aluable 
 sei'vice as signal niidshii)inaui. On his I'dui'u lo laigland he 
 was assigned to lh(> Ih lU rdplinii . At the batlle of' I'l'afalgar, 
 he gallant !>■ stooi 1 on 1 he jioop, ^vit h t li(> dead and dying falling 
 be<idc him. altendinii to the signals, with a coolnes> and accu- 
 racy that won liim llie unstinteil admiration of Isi-^ comi'ade-^. 
 
 l-"or the iicxl two ycai's he se!'\'(Ml under Aihiiii'als ( 'oi'u- 
 walli^. Si. \'i!ici'!ii, and Sirathain: then for >i\ \-ear- in 
 th.' n^.lfnnl. 
 
 [\\ the ili<a-t I'ou- att.'ick upon Xcw (h'leans. l'ran]^Hn com- 
 m;indcd ilic boni- in ;i jioht wiih ihe enemy'- u'unbo.-n-: he 
 c;ip1urcd diic of lhcm and >urf<'i'cd a -hghl wound in the 
 shiuildiT in a liand-1 (i-h;ind cncoiml ci'. 
 
 lie w'M- pi'iiiiK )lcd lo Iii--1 licuicnanl foi' uallam >er\-ice and
 
 e^
 
 SIR JOIIX FliAXKLTX 81 
 
 assi^u'iicd 1o i\\o Forth, which, afivv i\\o alxUcation of Xaiwleon 
 and the rcvsl oration of tlio Bourbons, conveyed the Duchess 
 d'Angonlc^nie baciv to France. 
 
 It is not suipi'isins that after snch a varicMl and distinguished 
 career, Fi'ankHn should l)e one of the first to enter with whole- 
 s()u1(m1 enthusiasm into the renewed interest shown by Eng- 
 land in Arctic discovc^ry and exploration. 
 
 Of the l^uchan (\\])edition in which Franklin was second in 
 command, we already know the history. The succeeding ex- 
 ])e(litions, though s])ok(ui of as failures in their main ol)ject, 
 won for him a renown (juite unique in Arctic honours, and the 
 last, so tragically fatal in its results, did more, through the 
 numberless s(>arching parties sent out to discover news of the 
 missing shiips, to (^xtend the world's scicnitific knowledge and 
 ge()gra])hical accuracy of Arctic Amei'ica. than could ])ossibly 
 have been accomiilished had the ex])edition be(m a succ(^ss. 
 
 Before taking up in dc^tail the journeys of Sir John Franklin, 
 it might be well to mak(^ note of a side-light in his remarkable 
 character. To this man a carecM' meant the ])ai'amount ambi- 
 tion of life, a. passion stronger than the lo\'e (jf woman, of 
 faniil>', of home or physical comfoi'ls. After the return of 
 the ]>uchan and Franklin expedition, tlu^ gentle ])()etess, 
 Ann(^ Poi'den. who had written " \'iels, or Triumpli of ( 'on- 
 stancy." tlie '"('(eur de Fion." and a short ])0(>m on the Arctic 
 (^x])edilion jus1 returned, visited the Tr( tit and met tlu^ gallant 
 ,h)hn l''rani;lin in th.{> full blush of his youthful manhood. TF; 
 fell in l()\-e. and ujion his retui'n fi'om his (ii'st land ex]')(Hlition, 
 in F"^"-';], th{\\- wvvo marricnl, but with the distinct understand- 
 inu'lhal .-w<H't .\mt(> sliould " nevei', under any circumstanc(>s, 
 s(M'k to turn her husband asi(l(> from the duty \\c owed his 
 coinitry ;uid his cai'iH^'." And she kept lua- word, but at 
 what saci'ifice ! 
 
 hi .lune of the following year a daughter wa> born to them, 
 btit tlie molltei' ni-ver r(>u,'ain(Ml hei- lu^idtii; a few months
 
 82 
 
 Tin: CHEAT w'inTK xoirrii 
 
 hilcr. ]Outtin,<;' in .John I'l-aiikliii's hand a silken flag to bo carried 
 iiorlh \() \"ict()r\', llie woi'k of her dyin,!;' fin,<iers, .^he coura- 
 ,i!;(()usl\' l)a(Le iiiiii ( iod-s])e('d, and he started, amid tlie ap])lause 
 of an enthu>iastic nation, upon tliat second journey — little 
 >i'ues>ing she, too, was about t(_) embark U})on the great un- 
 known. 
 
 "My instructions, in siibstanc(\" writ(>s Franklin of the 
 iir>t land ex])edition of lSli)-lS21, "informed me that the 
 main obj(>ct oi' the ex'ijedition was that of determining the 
 latitude and longil ude of tlie nonhern coast of Xorth America, 
 an.d the trending nf tlia.t coast fi'om the mouth of the ( 'ojjpia'- 
 mine lvi\'er 1o the ea--1ern exli'emit\' of that continent."' 
 
 He '\vas aulliorizid to lake counsel with lh(^ Hudson Bay 
 ohicial-. and plan his course accordingly. In fact, nruch was 
 left 1o his i)W\\ di>cr(-lion, and befoi'c lea\'ing I^nghmd he was 
 ioi'lunate enough lo go (,iver ihe details of the ])ro])osed jour- 
 \\r\- wiih Sir .Vlexand'-r ]\rackenzi(>. the (jnl\' li\'in.g kinglish 
 explore.'' ^\■!lo liad \"i^ite(l tlial coast. 
 
 Accompanie(l by l)i'. I^icharilson, surgeon and naturalist 
 (laiei' Sir ,lohu l{icliard-oii i, Admii'ally AIids]ii]»man ( leoi'gc^ 
 I'ack lialei- Sii' (icoi'ge Iiack", Ivobcil Hood, and another 
 IJmii^hman, John IIei)bu!ii. l"i';inklin sailctl fi'om (ira\'e.-end 
 in l!ic I'rhin ,,)' Wnhs. .M;ty -i:',, ISb.l. 
 
 (hi I'eachini;; \'oriv [''actory, t !:e pi-inci'pal di'pot of th.e Hud- 
 M>ii \\[\\ ( 'oin])any, he fonndi jui uiiforluuale .-'.itc of alfaii's 
 exi>liiu': bi'twccn liicm and l!ie Xoi'lii\ve-l ( 'i iiiip-anx". A. 
 biiiiT I'iwih'y had ri'-nheil in ihe d(1cnbinii a1 \ ^^vk l'"ariii!'y 
 ol' (■(■;'i;!!!i i)ariner< of ihe olher coinp.'iny. and 1 he re-uh of 
 i!ii- niiii 'H iiiia'o (|uaiTel had .-ei'ious resull< lipon hi> own 
 !ui iirc. 
 
 ! !'■ \/:i- aib.A-''d li t make for ( 'niiibci'|;iiid Hou-c. .-nii 1 l;il cr 
 ihl'MU'.rh a rh;i;ii ,)i j)(i-l- 1o ihe -horc- nf (lr(';i1 Sia\'e bake. 
 Willi I'lily dill' -!irr-!iMii and a bo;ii ^o -m.-ill b(iai many of 
 till' ]iro\a-ioii> were in coiimm luciice lefl behind, i raiikhn made
 
 JOJ'RXEY TO Cl'MBFAiLAXB HOVSE 83 
 
 his start u]) the Hayes Rivor, Sopteniber 9. Sailino; was frc- 
 qucndy varied by the arduous hibour of trackin.c;, and not un- 
 frecjuently a ywrtajio was found necessary, which added to the 
 fatigues and discouragements of the day. 
 
 At on(^ of the outposts of the Hudson Ray Coni]mny. they 
 were again ol)liged to k'ave some of tlieir stores under ])ronii-e 
 tliat thes(^ Avould be forwarded in the spring, and kiter, at 
 Sv>'ani])y Lake, the tenants of the (k^pot gave tJieni a supply of 
 nioukly ])enunican, which of course had to be thrown away 
 kit(M'. Thus from tiie outset the expedition laboured under tlie 
 fatal fuuidica]) of insufficient stores. 
 
 At ()xf(n'd House, Holy Lake, they s(>cured some good 
 pennnican and also fi>h, and, as the season was advancing, 
 tliey ])ushed onward. They finally I'cached the mouth of the 
 Saskatchevran, and, folloAving the river, they fii'st arrived at 
 Little River, then Pine Island Lake, arid at la>t, on October 2:5, 
 Cumberland IRjuse. Already ice liad im])eded their journey, 
 and h(M-e they <letermined to winter, at the invitation of Gov- 
 erui)]' AMlliams. 
 
 Irupatient to be on liis way, and desirous of securing 
 guides, liuntcrs, interi)retei-s, and stores for the jommey to tlie 
 sea, Franklin, accomjianied ])y J^ack and Heipbiurn, started, 
 January 10, 1820, for k'ort ('hipmvyan, with ])rovi>ions for 
 fiflcen diay.s. After a winter'.-- ,iourne\' of eigiit hundred and 
 fifty-.-eveu mile<. they reacliC'd their destination, 
 
 Tiie Viirious ]")osts at whicli th(^y sto]i])ed, .--upplied them Avith 
 only a limited amount of jirovisions, aivl the pros])ect of >ecin'- 
 ing moro was most discouraging. Sickness of the Liilian-. 
 in "tile huntinii season foretoM a scarcity for the following 
 spiiuL;; moreover, the i'i\'alry oi' the fur comjxuiics and the 
 kr-;:-!i i'X])i-U'iil ure of liicir -toi'('< in oi>])o~ition tai'iie< h;id 
 I'l'-u'ti'd in Lircally d('])!e1edi food sup|>1y, >o that ])ro\"i-ioM,< 
 eAj):('-.-ly intcndod for Lrard^lin were later consumed li('f<jre 
 reachimi; him.
 
 84 THE CUE AT WHITE XOUTTT 
 
 The tra\'('llors had sul'forcd oreatly from X\\c unaccuslonKMl 
 us(> of snoAv-shocs, the wcisiht of several ])oun(ls of snow 
 (•hii,(iin<i; to the shoes haviii.<>; <i;aUe(l and huned their feet. 
 Yet the journey liad not been considered as \vearin<>; as that 
 from York Factory to CumljerUmd Hoiis(>. 
 
 The return of fi'eese, (hielvs, and s\\'ans, tojiether with the 
 meltinji' of the snow and iee, now <i;ave inchcations of a[)pi'(jach- 
 in,!j; sjirinu'. Air. Hood writes of this time : — 
 
 "The noise mad(> by the fro<i.s, which thi< innn(hition ]ii'o- 
 (hice(h is almost incrcMlible. There is sti'ona: I'eason to be- 
 lieve that they outlive the sev(>rity of wintei'. They ha^vc^ 
 often been found fi'ozen. auid re\"i\'eil l)y warmlh; nor i< it 
 ]iossible that the nmltitude which incessantly fill(Ml our 
 ea!'--< with their discordant notes could have been matured in 
 two or three days." 
 
 Speakinii' of the resuseitation of fisli, I-'ranklin writes: — 
 
 "If in this comiiletely frozen state, tlicy wei'e tiiawiMl be- 
 fore^ the lire, they reco\'ered their animation, ddiis was par- 
 ticularly the case with the car]), and we had occa-ion to ob- 
 ser\'e it i'ej)eate(lly. as Dr. Piicliard>on (lecupicd him-elf in 
 examinin,2.' the >tructur<' of the diffei-eni .-jiecie,- of ii>!i. and Avas 
 alwa\"s in the winter under the !iece-<ity of thawinu; them 
 befe>re lie could cut them. \\v ha\'<' >een a caip rrcovi^r x) 
 far as to lea]T about with much vi^u'or after it had been 
 frozen thirt\'-< ix liour-." 
 
 Piiejiard-on and Hood now joined l-^ranklin. and tlie jiai'ty 
 inci'ea-ed by -ixleen ( 'anadian \'oyau'i'Ui'<. a ( '!iii)ewyan 
 woman, and two interpreter-, made theii' way iinrthward. 
 It wa> niiw till' middle of .bily. and t heir viiolc -loclv (.f ])i-o- 
 \'i-ion.- con-i-ti'd of hardly more than one d;iy',- -ui^plx'. 
 l-"oi't up.;itcly t liey >o()ii added a bulTalo. a.nd ai Moo-c Deer 
 I.dand the\' ifol -ome -upplie- fi'om the Hud-on ISiiy and 
 Xort hwe-t ( 'i impan\' oHii'cr-. 
 
 About the la-t of .Iui\- lln's' I'eached hoi't rro\-ida'nc(>.
 
 WLXTKIl AT FORT ENTEIII'RISE 85 
 
 I'^roin tlic Indian chief Akaitcho tlioy scnaircMl guidc^s, the 
 party iuu'iuii,' Ix'cn incrcascMl to twenty-nine, exclusive of 
 three ctiilih-en. A journ(\v of five hundred and fifty-two 
 miles -vx'as acconi]ilished, with no little hardship. Lack of 
 food and other i)i-ivatiou caused the Canadian voya^eurs to 
 l)ri'tUv out in opc^n nnitiuy. At Fort Enter])rise winter Cjuar- 
 ters \\'ere estal)lislie(l. 
 
 Eai'ly in October, l^ack and a party returned to Fort 
 Providence to arran^(> for the trans])ortation of stores ex- 
 pected from Cumberland House. The stores were anx- 
 iously awaited, and it was hoptnl they would arrive by New 
 ^'ear's Day, 1821. In tlu; meantime the party were sub- 
 sisting for tlu^ most i)art on reindeer meat, fish twice a 
 week, and a little floui'. The middle of January seven of 
 Back's ])arty returned, bringing with them as many stores 
 as they c(juld haul. 
 
 A little hiter Back returned, luiving performed on foot 
 tlie I'CMnarkable joiU'P.ey of more than eleven hundred miles 
 (jn sno\v-s!ioe<. sleeiMug in tlie o])en, with onl}' th(> ])i'ot(H'tion 
 of a bUinlvCt and a deei'skin, the thermometer frt^fju^'ntly at 
 40^ and once at ~)1^ below zero, — and passing several days 
 wit liout food. 
 
 The failure of th(> great fur com|)anies to keep their con- 
 ti'act> had i'e>ult(-d in almost n(.) ])ro\'isions being s(.'Cin'ed. At 
 r'ort l-jitei'j)i'ise it was now found necessary to curtail ra- 
 tion- to the mo-t meagre [unount, and many of the Indian 
 families camped about the house were oblig(>d to satisfy the 
 crax'ings of hunger with l)ones, deer's feet, and bits of other 
 otTal. 
 
 '"When."' -a>'s l"'ranklin, " W(> beheld them gnawing the 
 ])ieces of hide, and ])ounding tiie bcjnes for the ])Ui'])Ose of 
 extracting some nourishment from them by boilinii', we 
 regi'etliMl our inability to r(-lieve them, but little thouuht 
 that we ourselves slujuM be uftei'wards dri\'en t(j th(> neces-
 
 bG THE GREAT WIUTE NORTIf 
 
 <\Xy of caii'crly cijlli-ctinii; these same bones, a sc'cond time, 
 froiii ill" (luii,L!,--liill.''" 
 
 ill July. 1S21, the ex])eilitioii lia\'hi,<^ (h'au^T'd canoes 
 auil hauuau'e with fifteen day.-' ])rovisioii- to the hiuik of 
 the Copijenniiie. eniharked ii])Ou thf main object of the 
 enteri)ri-e. Ijy the "ioth they had doubled ('a])e Hari'ow. 
 and it- ea-tern sirle they named Inmaii Harbor. Tlie 
 danii'''rs a.nd di<ci>ura,<i'ements that b."-et Ai'ctic travellers 
 soon fell li) theii' lot. Their >lock (jf food, r('])leih.<hed with a 
 few deer, soon became exhau.-tcih and the ration i--Ufd to 
 each man \\-as a meagre handful (jf i)emmican and a small 
 ])or* ion ! )f -oup. 
 
 V.y tic oih (jf AuiiU-t, they luid reach<'d the Back liiver 
 and ih(-n cxDloi'ed Mi'lville Sound and Pxithurst Inlet. 
 ITa\"in,-!; r(-ai'hcd Point Turiiagaim and meetinu; with no Es- 
 l^imo- who ri)n:d. [■(•plcni-h tiieir ])i'o\-i.-;on-. I'd'anl-din vras 
 obli'i'cd to tui'n back. iia\'imi' saiL'd nearly -ix hundred ,u'e(_)- 
 .ri'rcoliic.'i! mill-- in tracing' the iri'eLi-ular -hore of ('orojiation 
 ( iulf !V')m 1 ill' ( 'op]):i'mi!ie Ri\-er. 
 
 Ihdui-i-d ti) \\\c la-1 extremity for \\'vy\\\ of food, tlie l;i-t 
 1)it of ])eminii'an an.di iirrownx^t ha\'imi' furnwd a scrin.ty -u])- 
 j)'-r. au'l wiihiiUt nw;in- of makinu' a fire, ihi- forlorn ]>arty 
 >\)i-\\' ;':!' fii'th day of :^"!)t enibi^r in bi-d wbili' a >niiW-iorm 
 i':cj.v;i ;:bi}\-i' ihi'm au'l driftcil into ilcir tC'Ut. covei'inu,' their 
 t iiii; lilankrt- -evi-ra! im'hc-. < )f thi- da\- Wi'l'i'- id'ankiin : — 
 
 ■■*)ur -uf:V:M!,Li: b'om ci-ld, iri a comfnrtr'-- 'cmx';'- tent in 
 -"c'l '>'/•■; 1 1 ':;,')■ \\-\\\\ \\\i- temperature at '1\)\ and without fire, 
 ^\'''i -a-iiy bi' imiiiriiied : it wa-. lio\N'e\'er. L--- tium tiiat 
 w' ii'ii '■'•.-'- \>-'v fn im liuiiier."" 
 
 fi.r 'WW d:i;c< tiic/ ii\-ed on a lielicn Iniown a< Irijii 'I" 
 r"i-n. . aad en t'.e pitii ••they ei)t a lii'Dii iiie-l by kiilim:; a 
 mu-l;-. X. '{'<} -Inn and eui uj) tiie an:'M;i! w'l- ihe wnvl: i h' 
 
 ;i i'l'W 'nice',.-;. d'iie (■' i!l i ei,t ~- iif ;'- -'(iinw'h W^r- de\-(illl'ed 
 
 luien ;:.!■ -ii'iW raw inte-une-, wiiicli wri'c ni-xl att;u-keih
 
 STARVATION 87 
 
 were iironounccd by llic most delicate^ uniouji'st us to 1)0 ox- 
 ('(dliMit." 
 
 The ci'tocts of suiT(>riii<^ and fainino })(^<i,:ui to show thoiii- 
 sclvcs in th(> iniprovidcncc and indilTcrfMU'c of the men. 
 TliriH^ fishiii,u'-n(-ts were left behind, and om^ of the canoes 
 broken and al)aiidone(L ^viosses, an occasional ])arti'i(lii'e, 
 tripv (Ic roclie, bits of >inii'ed hide, and such marrow as could 
 })e extracteil fi'om finds of bon(\s of animals form(Hl their only 
 diet. 
 
 ldiou,<i'h w'Qiik and lame, Jjack pushed forward in s(>arch of 
 relief. One by one the starvin<i; men fell by th(> wayside. 
 Hood, sutfei'iiii^ from the erfects of //■/'//•," dc riichc, whicli ne\'er 
 afi're('d with him, became too exhausted to proc(H'd, ;uid Dr. 
 Richardson volunteered to remain witli him. As one by one 
 th(" vai'ious mejnlxM's (b'opj^ed down with fati.^ue, only five 
 Ix^sides I*'j'anklin wc^re left in the advance ])arty. These con- 
 tinuiHl iheir weaiy ])il^'rima,i;v, clu^ered ■with th(> l)oi)(- that at 
 I'oi't Enter])ris(' Avould be found s!ie!!(>r and the nuich-ncHnled 
 suijplies which liad becni promised tluMu. .Mas ! tlieir ii,i'ief 
 an.d, disapp(.>intnient ma\' Ite imai^ined upon enterin,u' tliis 
 wretched d(^])ot to lind it desolate and witliout a vestige 
 of pi'ovisions. 
 
 ■"It would b(^ imi)ossibIe," sa\'s rranklin, "to (le>crib(> our 
 sens:itions aftei' (Mitei'lng tiiis misei'able abode, aiid disco\-cr- 
 ing how we !iad, iiccn nc'iilecled : the M'hole i)arty shed 
 t(-ai's, not so nuich for oui' own tale a> i'oi' th.at of our fri(M!ds 
 in tiie rear wiio^e lives depiMided entirel\' uu our >endin!2: im- 
 inediaie relief from tliis place." 
 
 To tlu'ii' sur]i!'I-e they found ;i note fi'om I'ack -tiitini': 
 tluit he liad reached the slseltci' two days befni'e !iy ;!riOi!;rr 
 I'oule and had inune;iiately P'l'es-i'd on in luipc o!' (in(nng i'le 
 Indian-, ;uid if m.l. !:<' would direct lii-; -lep> In bo'i PcdX'i- 
 dcncc. thi)iiLi!i lu^ d/)ulit(Ml if he ;uid hi:^ i)arly could reach 
 there in their ])r(vent iml'ortunate condition.
 
 88 
 
 UK Gin: AT WHiri-: xoiriii 
 
 l''r:iiikliii and his men .u'athcrcd loucthcr wiiat could Ix; 
 used as food and found .-('\-(-ral dcci'.-kin- ihat had h)ccn 
 thrown away the ])i'('viou< year and a few h)oncs u'aTticrcd 
 from the refu>(> h("ap. These, \\ilh tn'pf di rochi. , they made 
 into a SOU]) and endea\'ou!'ed to >ui)i)o!l life on the putrid 
 nia:-s. Later on onic more memlier of the ])art\' came in, and 
 a da}' or two after a man name(l Fjalanucr of liack's ]);i!'ty 
 reached camp in all hut a dyin,ti' condition. lie tiadi fallen 
 into a ra])id. had come near drownin,u', and was then -jieech- 
 les> fr()m exhaustion and expo.-urc. When warmed, dj-y 
 cIothin.<i' ])Ut on. and <i'i\-en a little soup, he was .-uiiicieni ly 
 restored to .answei' (luestion-. 
 
 I>ai'k had not found the Imlian-^ and wa> makinu' for h'oi't 
 I^ro\'iderice. Thither l-'ranklin detei'minedi to follow him 
 with two of his nien. the others \-olunteei'in'j,' to remain 
 until succour should he -cut to them. ( 'wiim,' to an un- 
 fortunate accident to hi- .-now— hoe-, Franklin wa- oMluid 
 to return to cam]) the next da\', sendin,u: on hi- com})anions 
 alone. 
 
 The ])oor wretches tliat had keen left at Fort Fnter])ri,-e 
 \\'ere in -uch a weakeneil -late that it was with diflicult}' that 
 hranklin could roii-e them to an\' exertion. 
 
 "We -aw," write> Franklin, "a herd o\ reindeer -]^ortinL!; 
 on the i'i\-ei'. atujut half a mile fr()m the hou-e : they I'c- 
 maiiK-d there a loim- time. Init none of the ])ar'y felt thiMU- 
 si'l\-f- -tronu' enough to u'o after them, nor wa- thei'e on^ of 
 u- who c()uld ha\'e fired a uun without ri'-tinu' it." 
 
 J/mhti'cii Idim' day- ])a--i'd .-jow-jy ] ly, dui'iuLi' which ihev 
 ciiijiu'cd fi'iL:hiful ])i-i\-at ion-, when Dr. Hichard-on ;md 
 IkpliiuMi rc;ichi'd them. jj,-reatly enfecklcd an<! cmacialcd. 
 "The piMMnr i>ari iciilarly r<-iii;u'ke( I thf -cpiilcli!';:! t.mc- of 
 our \-o!cc-, wliidi jif rc( jUc~! cd of 11- til m.'ikr tiioiv chcri'fnh 
 il po--!!i!c, !mi'o.ii-.ci(iii- t iiiit hi- own pai't ook of ' he -;!mf kc\ ." 
 
 leMinil'ii il|\'lii( 
 
 !ari!'!ilue he Iia< 
 
 I. -;:\ - i' ra
 
 1'I!AM<]J.\'S ^FJ'Oyi) ,I()IIL\EY 89 
 
 !iii, "I and \\\\ three coiiipanioiis i-;u'en()usly de\'oure(l our 
 shares. a< it was the first morsel of flesli any of us had lasted 
 for tliirty-oue days, unl(>ss, indecMl, the small, j^iistly ])artieles 
 which we found occasionally adherin<^ U) the pounded hones 
 may he called fle>h." 
 
 Dr. ]{ichardson then told of the ti'a,u;ic death of Hood, who 
 had heen imu'dereil hy the IrocjiKjis, 2\Iichel, whose threaten- 
 in,u' deinetuiour the\' had note(l for some da\'s, and whom they 
 afterwards suspectecl of ha\'in,u; put an end U) two other 
 nieml)er> of the party. Tnder the circunist;uices, as a mat- 
 tei' {)i self-preservation, it was deemcnl necc^ssary to end the 
 Indian's life, and this J)r. Richardson did with a ])istol- 
 .-^hot. 
 
 The day after the arrival of Hichai'dson and II(^pl)urn. two 
 of th.e ])arty died. Finally, early m Xovemher, Indian 
 n!essen!j;<'rs sent hy I>ack hrou^^ht the longed-for relief, the 
 Indians ■■e\'incin.L!; lunnaiiitx' that wouM ha\'e d(jne honor 
 to tlie mo~;t ci\-ilized ])eo])le." \\'hen the ])arT>' were sufli- 
 ci(Mitly i'e-t()i'ed to health with food and kind iun'sin<i\ they 
 startetl for Fort ( 'hi])ewyan. where they ]'(>main(Ml until .June 
 of the foUowin.u' year. \n .lul\' tliey reached "^'ork Factory, 
 whence three year-^ hefore they had starteil out. 
 
 In this i-emarka!)!e journe>- of (.)vei' five thousand five 
 hundreil and fifty miles, human eniluranee ;md i)atience had 
 heeu ])u; to the uttermost test: th(> won.derful coui'a,u,'e :md 
 fortitude with wh.ich the<e heroe-; l)ra\'e(l ;i fate that thi'eat- 
 ened them at e\-ery <te]X mak(> thi> one of the most remark- 
 aiile feat < in Arcl ic histor>'. 
 
 A mo!"(^ cheerful jjicture present- it«'lf in h^i-anklin'^ second 
 \'nyau'e. and. thouuh fort unctt^ly not so tr:ui'ie as the hiv-t. it 
 nevei'thele,-- denii )n-lr;i1 es his remai'kahh' le;ider.-lii]). 
 
 ill eonjuiiction with tlu' Ijeechey ext>e(!it ion in the IHnssn/n 
 and Pari'y"- e\])edilion with th<' lli'hi and l^'irii. a ll;iril ex- 
 ])ed;tlon wa< pi'omote:! v.\n\, upon rer[Ue-t of Franklin, ])Ut
 
 90 THE ailEAT WIllTK yoiiTii 
 
 under liis (■luir^(\ Tlu' outline of operations was for this 
 ])arty to (l(>seen(l the AlaelccMizie Piiver to \\\v sea, and tliere 
 to (h\'id(^ the force, one section to explore the coast east to 
 the (\)p))erniine, while the othei' should take a westerly 
 coiu'se and round Ice Cajx' and, if possilile, Behring Strait. 
 Profiling by i):ist ex])(M'ience, the l)arty W(M"e amply ])ro- 
 visioned from the outset; in fact, a delay of some months 
 was r(Hiuired to secure the n('C(>ssary amomit of pemmican. 
 
 Undauided by th(> hardships endure(i on the previous 
 voyage, Back and liicliardson vohmleered again to accom- 
 ])any Franklin; AJr. Ivendall, a, mate in the na\'3', and Mr. 
 T. Drununond, a naturalist, were also of the l)arty. Kour 
 carefully constructed boats Vv'(a'e sent aln^ul in one of the 
 Hudson Ha\' (/ompaii\''s ships, and in July, 182."), the 
 Franklin party reacluMl Fort ("hipeuwan. 
 
 They i'(\tched (lr(\it lj(\ir Lake without incident, and there 
 erect(>d winter ([uartc^i's uiuua- th.e direction of P)ack and 
 Dease, tli(> latter being detailcMl !)y t!i(^ Hudson P^ay (\)nij)ai!y 
 to assist (he ex];edition. Alth;)ua,li the season Avas wA\ 
 advanced, l''i'anklin set out, with a. small ]iai-1y, to make a 
 six-da\' journ(\\' dnwii the Macl-Lcnzie for the puri)ose of 
 examining the state of th(^ Polar S(vi. They re;u'he(l an 
 ishuid to which lie ga\'e the nani(> of ( !arry Island. ;uid as- 
 cended the summit, from which "lh(> sea apjx^ain^l in all its 
 majesty, entirely U'l.^^' fi'om \c<\ and without any visible 
 obstructions to its miA'igatiori, and never was a i^i'ospccl 
 mo!'(^ gi'atiiying than tliat which lay open to us," Here 
 the >i!k('ii I nioii .lack ma('(> by the hands of Anne Pordcii 
 was wnrwrlfd, the news of who>e death had but laJely reacheil 
 her hii,-! )V'.\v \. 
 
 "i wiil not," writes I'^ranklin, "attem])t to descrilx^ my 
 MiiotiMi!-. ;i< it expanded to the breeze." 
 
 P.y tiie 7ih (if Septem!)er the parl\' liad returneil to l''ort 
 I'l-anklin, and the king winter was passed in comparatl\'e
 
 ijescext of Tin-: macke.xzie eiv eu 01 
 
 comfort. Ev(My effort was made to amusc^ and interest the 
 men, tlie entire number consisting of nearly fifty, including 
 guides, interpreters, Canadian voyageurs, and Indians. 
 
 The following June, ]<S2(J, preparations were made for the 
 i!!i])()rtant work of the ex])edition. Descimding the Mac- 
 kenzi(^ in four l)oats to the Polar Sea, the jnirty here divided, 
 Ca]:)tain Franklin and Lieutenant Back with fourtecm men 
 ])ushing to the westward, Dr. Richardson with Air. K(>ndall 
 as>ist<Ml by \v\\ men in two boats going in an easterly direc- 
 tion toward tlie C'o])permine River. 
 
 Soon after joarting, Franklin's ])arty had an unfortunate 
 enc(juntei' with Eskimos, who pillaged their st(jres and 
 caused tlnnn considerable annoyance. ]\Iaking his way 
 westward. Ik^ encountered dii'ty w(>atlier and ])enetrating 
 fogs, which ke])t the ])oor shi\'ering men ])er])etually en- 
 vel()])ed in. moist'are. IIowev(>r, lie r(\iched latitude 70^ 24' 
 X., longitude \\\f '.M' \\'., which ])oint of hmd he namcMl 
 aft(>r Lieutenant l^ack. \\v had sur\'eyed t)u'(>e hundr(>d and 
 sev(m1y-1'our miles of coast. 
 
 It was now deeme(l advisable to return, and by Se]>teml)er 
 ))1 the i)arty re;iched Fort Franklin, where Jiichardson and 
 hi- ])ai'ty had retui'ued some days (vu'liei' after a successful 
 voyage of fi\'e huudi'cd mile-<. or nine hundi'cd and two \)\' the 
 co;ist-line. 
 
 Tlie ])ai'ty undei' Richardson had been favoureil witli good 
 weatlii-r. auil. thouu'h detained by an occasional storm. wer(> 
 on the whole iiio-t f()rtunat(\ < )ne of these shelters, Refuge 
 ("ove. Dr. Richai'd>on desciilx^s : — 
 
 ■■M>'riads of m()-(|uit()es, which i'e]io<ed among the grass, 
 rose in clouds Avlien disturlxnl. and gave u^ much annoyance. 
 ]\rany snow bii'ds were liatcliimi' on the ])()int : and we saw 
 >wan<. ('anada geese, eider, king. Ardic, and >urf ducfis ; 
 S'>\-(M';il glaucous. >ih-ery, black-headeil. and ivoi'y gulls, 
 together with terns and northern divei's. .<ome laugiiing
 
 THE CHEAT wiirrE yoiriTi 
 
 <i-(M'S(' pnssiMl to the iiorthw'iird in the ('V('uiii<i;, which may bo 
 (•()ii>i(lci'c(l as a sure iiidicnjion of himl in tiiat (Tn'cct ion." 
 
 I)ui'in,ti' the second winter passed at I'orl Frankhn, tlie 
 thermometer I'ell as low as oS'' helow zero. The l^n,uii>hmeu 
 spent their time in makin.u,' scientific observations and com- 
 ])lelin,ii tlieir data and records. Food and warmth, com- 
 bined with <i;ood health, made it i)ass comi)arative!\' ([uickly, 
 and in the s])rini;' the ]>ai't\' made their wa\' back to l']n,<2;lan(L 
 
 Ilonoursof the mo>t distin,tiui>he(l character awaite<l Frank- 
 lin upon his return. d\j the map of Xorth .Vmerica lie had 
 adde(l no 1('>-- than tweh'e hundred miles, for which the nation 
 rendei'ed him enthu^lastic applause. In bS2*,) he was kni,!i,'hted, 
 ( )\ford confei'i'ed on him the d(\u'i'ee of l).(\L., and the 
 ( ieouraphical Societ\' of Paris awarded him a ,u'old medal. 
 
 in \i\< second m;u'riau'e Franklin was most h)rtunate in 
 wimiinu,- a cultured, tra.velleil woman of wealtli. Jane (irilHn, 
 who>e >\'mpathies were entirel\' in hai'inony with his own, 
 and whose d"Votion to \n< memory kept alive h)r tweK'c 
 >(':irs the interest of the world in ceaseless efforts to ascertain 
 lii< iate. 'i'he succeedimr year- imtil the la^t ill-htteil \-oya,u'e 
 were most happily di\-id('d between a cruise on the Mediter- 
 ranean, in which k'l'anklin connnap.d<'d the Ixnitihoit: with 
 such plea-iu'c to tiie crew and oflicers that the ship won the 
 ch('(-i'ful >ol)i'i(juet of (\lislliil li'tiinh/iir and t he /•'a/Y^Z/'xr' of 
 !■' rinil:li II . and the L!.()\-enii)i'>hip of the colony of \'an Die- 
 men's Land. (>!■ 'i'a-mania, a po>t he hekl for se\'en years 
 \\-ii \\ ;idmiralile -;uc( •(>■;-. j-'i^anklin had onl\' been a lew niont lis 
 in l\iii:l;iMd when the Admii-altx'. thi'ou<i,h Sii' John I^.ai'row, 
 U)V ni;iny ye;ir< an enl hu-;ia-1 Ic ])ro!noter of Arctic eiitei'- 
 prbe. dec'drd upon .•mother expedition to effect the di-co\'ei'y 
 of the \or!liWe-t P;i--aL!.'e. !t 1- recorded that the I'^iist L(jrd 
 of ill'' Admiralty, l.oi'il 1 !a' idiic_il on. in con \'< ■!•.<! n'j,' \\"itli Sir 
 Ivlw.'ii'd l';i!T\- upon 1 he ;i'j\'l-;ibilit\' of offering; I''i'ankrm the 
 po-1 of cominaiidin'j,' oHiri'r, remarked:
 
 j.j.sy joriixEY OF sin joiix fuanklin '.'■> 
 
 "I sec I''r;inkliii is sixty yoars old. ()ui>;ht \xv U) \i'\ him 
 •i'o?" to which I'lUTv ;uis\v(M-('(l, — 
 
 "Aly lord, lie is tlu^ best num for tlu^ ])ost I know, ;iii<l if 
 you don't k^t him go, he will, 1 am certain, di(> of disap- 
 pointment." 
 
 In an intcM'vicnv with Franklin, Lord Haddington spoke 
 again of his age being sixty, and addcMJ, — 
 
 "You might l)e cont(Mit with your laui'c^ls, after having 
 done so nnich for 3'our count r}-," to which Frandviin replied 
 with all the (^agerness of youth, — 
 
 "No, no! my lord, only fifty-niiu^ I" 
 
 Lord Brougham, when told that the command had becui 
 acc(-pte(l by Franklin, remark(Ml, -~- 
 
 "Arctic work gc^ts into the blood of these m(Mi. l'h(\v 
 aiti't help going again if tlu\v get a chance."" 
 
 Th(> Krchns and Terror wow both ships that ha,d >orn 
 many \'(Virs' sei'vice in Ai'ctic and Antarctic seas. l'h(\\' \ver(> 
 ])rovisi()ned for three y(>ars and supplied wU h e\'(M\v facility 
 for scientific and geogi"a|)hical ob-('r\'at ions. The com- 
 bintnl crews and ohicers jiumber one hmidi'ed ;ui<l thirty- 
 eight souls. In c()m])an\' \\'ith the t i'a,ns])oi't, Ihrrrdo Jxtiiar, 
 the ex])edil ion sailed fi'om ( ircHaihithe on tlu^ Lhh of May, 
 IS 15. 
 
 The 4th of -luly, they r(vich(Hl ^^'hal(> Fish Islatid, near 
 Disco, in ( Ireenland, and here the Hdrrcio Jiurior transf(M're(l 
 to the Kn'l)t(s and Terror lu-r extra stores, retui'iiing to J'.ng- 
 land with th(> last m(vsag(> from Franklin ever rec(>ived by 
 the Admii-ah;,'. 
 
 "Tlu^ sh.i|is ai'e now complele with sup])lies of cyovy kind 
 f()r thr(M' yiai's; they ai'e thei'cl'ore x'ery (1(M'1), Init hai)|)ily 
 W(^ ha\'e no r(>;vson to expect much .-ea, as we pioceed fui'tlier."' 
 
 ^\ith confidence^ and (Mit hu--i;e-n). .h>!ni branlvlin tui'iied 
 to the north, "much luMter in ii^'aitli."" Lieutenant Fairhnhn!' 
 had wrilt(Mi, "than ^\■hcu we left h()nu\ and rcalb' jooj-;- ten
 
 04 
 
 THE (rllEAT W'JIITK yORTU 
 
 vfai'- younsi'T. He takes an activo part in (-vr'nihing that 
 g'oo on. ami iii.- lonii' (-xixTif-ncf in suc-h -ci'vicc niakt'S him a 
 niiot \'alua[il(' aiivi>cr."' 
 
 On the 2i)th of July, the Prince <if Wtilo^. a whahnn; vessel, 
 saw the lu'(j >i!ip- in Melville P)ay. waiiin,L!; a favourahle 
 opportunity for ])'u.-hin,ii,' throudi the ■"iniiidle iec-."" ^i.u'iia.ls 
 ■were (■xchanu'ej ami an in\'itation extended t(j Franklin to 
 dine witli th(- caijtain of the w'harni.a; .-hij"). A hree/e .-pi'iim- 
 ini; u)"). ihe Erfims ami Ttrrur parted eoni].)any with the 
 
 \> if allurinu'l}' h(-ekoned liy that fatal enefiantress, tlie 
 " Lady of the A[i-r>," Sir J(jhn J-d'ankiin and his ^u'allant (■re^v 
 >i!eKily uhidicil iiit(j the unknown, aivl fi'(jni that hi^iu' were 
 l(j-t to the workl fore\'er.
 
 CHAPTER Vn 
 
 8e:ircli for Sir Jolm Franklin. — Captain Kcllctt. — Captain ^Mooro. 
 
 — Dr. Kichanlson.-^Dr. ]{ac. — .^ir J. C. Ilos^. — Air. Parker. 
 
 — Dr. (io()(Pir. — Collinson and ArC'kiic. — Tke Fdi.c. — Pi'iiicc 
 Alht ft. — Conin.iandfd by (_'karh.\s C Fursytli. — Cai)tain Austin's 
 >(iuadr(jn. - — ( 'a})1ain Oniniancy. — Picntciiai!! Slici'ai'd Osl)t)i'n. 
 
 — Connnandcr Cat(jr. — CirinncU cxpiMUtiou un(U'r j)(" lluvcn. 
 
 Xo ti(Uii<i;s of tlic Krchus and Terror luiviug n^acluMJ En.iiPmd 
 by the (;\o<c of LS47, ti'rcat an.xicty was felt as to tlu^ whcrc- 
 a'i)outs and fate of tlic niissiii.i;; s}u])s. TIk* ,<i(_>v('rnni(:-id ini- 
 inciliatcly took RK^asurcs t(_) outfit three s(^archin,a; ])arties. 
 Hie fii'st was to ,u'o westward to I^jehrin.Li; Strait, and tliero 
 inr(>t ihe shi])s ^\■iIh a.-^si-tanee, should llu-y ha\"e keen suc- 
 cessful in making the okjeci of their N'oya.ii'e, and for tliis 
 ])urp(.)se Captain kPau'v Iv(dlett coinniandani;' the Ilrrall and 
 ('apiain !Moore in t!ie .--hij) JHortr left J'higland in January, 
 
 ksis. 
 
 The second, was to ])0 an ovei'land and koat exjx'ditioii 
 will) its ok)j('('l to exploi'c llie eoa-t of the Arctic Sea ketwe('n 
 th(- Mack'enzie aial ( 'opipcrniinr ri\'c!'s, uib'lcr l!ie leadtrrshi]) 
 (>i tiiat faithfvil coin])anlon and friend of Sir J(dm i'rankhn, 
 J)r. Sii' John liichai di.-i)n, acconptanicd ky Piae. who liad kut 
 lately retiu'ued from ki- memoraiile jnurnc}' ol' ]N!d-lS47. 
 
 The third cxiitdilion was uaidcr Sir .lame> (. "lai'k lio-s 
 in ikie sliijis 1''. ri( r jir !■■■'■ andi I nn siiijntor. with in>t !'Uction> to 
 make ioi' Lanca-lir Sound and kkirrow Strait, exanhne all 
 traek.< of the mi--inii' -iii|>- we-tward and, reinle!' relief if the 
 ship- -liould ke di<e()\-ei'ed imprisoned in the ice. 
 
 Owinji; to the p(K)r sailin.u' ([Ualitie> of the J'lii/\r and 
 
 95
 
 90 THE GREAT WIUTE XOliTll 
 
 I feral'/, \\\v shi])s were \ui;il)l(' to rciich hi^h l;ilitu(l(^s in tiin(» 
 to ])('iu'trat(' to lli(> northward tliat season, and not nntil 
 tIic followinji; .Jul\', in company with the Xaiic!/ Ddirsou, a 
 plcasm'c yaclit l)('l()nt;;in,<2; lo Rohert Sheldon, l^s([., did they 
 ])nrsue the main object oi' their (>x])e(htion. July IS, 1849, 
 tliey left ( 'hamisso, and on the 2()th th<\v were olT Cape Lis- 
 ])urn ; (i\'e da}'s later the}' ])assed Icy Point. Here they 
 despatched the IhrnUCs ])innace and three other Ijoats, witii 
 a ])arty of twenty-five men with thi'ee months' ])r(n'isions, 
 under connnand of Ijieutenant Pullen, whose instructions 
 were to coim(>ct with llu^ Richardson ])arty, one division 
 in two whale-boats (o extend the search to the MackcMizie 
 R.i\'er, ascend that ri\'er, and return homeward by. Fort Hop(> 
 and Yoi'k I-'aclory; the remainin,<i' division to I'eturn to the 
 ren(le/\-()Us of th(> ships at ( 'hamisso Island. 
 
 The llii'dbl and Plonrr cruis(>(l noi'thward as far as the 
 ice would permit, tlien explored tlu' coast-line in detail. On 
 the 7th of Au<>:ust, t he Herald siii'hted new l(M'i'it()ry. .Runninu; 
 closc^ to the island, the\' h)und it b;irren, and for tlu> most 
 ])art of inacce<sibl(> ti-ranite cliffs. 
 
 The Saneij Daii-soii and the return boats u.ndei' LieutiMiant 
 J'ullen rejoined the U< rabi by the 21lh of .\.u,u,'ust. They had 
 j)ai'ted company with the two whale-boats at Dease Inlet. 
 The>' had louiid no traces of the l-'ranklin expedition, but had 
 left deposits of pi'ox'i^ions at inter\'als alonii' the route. 
 
 Tlie ioliowint;' months win'e- s])ent in wiiitei' ([uartei's, and, 
 as soon ;i> the weather i)ermitteil, in c;u'eful examination of 
 the inlet- and coa^t from Icy ('ape to Point. P>ai'i'ow in tlu> 
 hope ol f!ndin',i: t r;ice-~ of the mi><inu' ])ai't\'. J)i-;ap])ointed 
 at ;i fruit li'-s voy;!!,',;-. t h.e >lilps ret ui'ned to I'Jiiiiand in ( )ct()ber, 
 IS,-)!). 
 
 bi lii< ofiirial ri'port to the Secret.ai'y of t he Admii'alty, Sir 
 • lohn Ibch.anbon ui\-(--< ;m excellent summary of the results 
 ol the -(•.'■Olid expfdition. He says in p.arl : —
 
 lilCHARDSOX's liEPORT 97 
 
 "In the voyage ])etw(H'n th(^ Alackenzie and Coppermine, I 
 carefully execut(Hl the-ir loi'(lshi])s' instructions with respect to 
 the examination of tlie coast-line, and Ixn-ame fully con- 
 vincfMl that no ships had passed within view of the mainland. 
 It is, ind(H>d, nearly im]M)ssible that they could have done 
 so unobserved by some of the numerous parti(\s of Eskimos 
 on X\\v look-out for whales. We werc^, moreover, informed 
 by the Eskimos of Back's Inlet, tliat the ice had been press- 
 ing on their shor(> nearly the whole summer ; and its clos(4y 
 packcnl condition when we left it on the 4th of Septemlx.^r 
 made it highly im])robable that it would open for ship navi- 
 gation lat(a' in the season. I regretted extremely that the 
 state of the ice ])re vented me from crossing to Wollaston 
 Land, and thus completing, in on(^ season, the whole scheme 
 of their lordships' instructions. The opening between 
 A\'()llaston and Mctoria Lands has always appeared to m(> 
 to possess great Intercast, for through it the flood-tide (^\'i- 
 dend}' sets int<_) Coronation Clulf, diverging to the westward 
 by tlie Dolijhin and Union Strait, and to the eastward r(jund 
 ('a])e AlexandiM'. l^y the fifth claus(> of Sir John Franklin's 
 in-tructions, h(> is dircH'ted to >t(>er southwestward from 
 ('a]ie Walker, winch would lead liim nearly in the direction 
 of the strait in (luestion. If Sir John found Barrow Strait 
 as open as when Sii- I-'-dward Parry parsed it on fom' ])re- 
 \'ious occasions, T am con\'inc(Ml that icoin])lying as (exactly 
 as !i(> could with his instructions and without looking iiU(.) 
 AVellington Sound, or other ojienings cithei' to tlie south or 
 north of l^ari'ow Strait ^ he ])ushed directl}' west to ('a])e 
 V\'alk('j', and fi'om thence soutliwestwards. If so, the ships 
 were prob;vbly shut U]) on some (.)f the passages b(>tween \dc- 
 tofia, B)anks, and A\'olla<ton Lands. 
 
 "l)eing a]')prehensi\'e that the ])oats I left on th(^ coast 
 W(»ulil be brok(-n u]) by the Eskimos, and being, m()r(M)\-er, 
 of o[)ini()n that the examination of the oi)ening in Cjuestion
 
 98 THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 ini.ti,ht b(> safely and cihcicMitly ])erforin(Hl in tlu^ only rc^main- 
 ni.Li; boat 1 had fit iV)r the trans})ort from B(>ai' Lak(> to the 
 Coppefnhne, 1 (k^ternuned to entrust this ini]K)rtant service 
 to Mr. Ka(\, who volunteered, and whose ability and Z(>al 
 in tlu> cause 1 cannot too highly connncMuL lie sekn'ted an 
 excellent crew, all of them ex])erienced voya,u,-eurs and capa- 
 ble of findin<>; their waj" back to l^ear Lake without fi'uides, 
 should any unforeseen accident de})rive them of their leader. 
 
 " In the month of March (1849) a sufficient su])])ly of ])em- 
 mican, and other nec(\ssai'y stores, with the e(iui}Mnents of 
 t!ie boat, wcM'e trans])orte(l over the snow on d()ii-sledu;(>s 
 to ;;. navi,u;able ])art of llu^ Kendall River, and left tluM'e under 
 the chart^'e of two men. As soon as the l)eas(> broke up in 
 Juuj', Ml'. Kae would foll(_)^\', with th(> boat, the rest of the 
 crew, an<l a ])ai'ty of Indian hunters, and would descend 
 the ( 'oi)permine lii\-er about the middle of .ju!_\', at which 
 time the sea ti-ene!'all\' l)e,u,ins to bi'cak uj). \\v would then, 
 as soon as possible, ci'oss fi'om Cape Krusenstern to W'ollaston 
 Land, and endeavor to ])ene1rate to the nort h.wai'd, (M'ectin<i' 
 siii;n;il-colunuis, and makin.u; deposits on conspicuous luvid- 
 lands. and especially on the north shore of I)anks" Land, 
 should he be fortunate enough to attain that coa^t. lie was 
 fui'tliei' insti'ucled not to hazard the safetx' of his ])arty by 
 i'(-m:uniii,ii too lonj;- on the noilh side of l)ol|>irm and Liiion 
 Strait, and to be miidcd in his mo\'einent> by the season. I he 
 state of the ice. and such intelljo'cnce as he miirlit obtain 
 from the l']skimo<. He wa^ al<o riMjuestcd to en.iiau'e one or 
 moi'e fninilies of Indian hunteis to ]>a--s t he summei' ot bSO.") 
 on the blinks of the ( 'oi)p(M'niine l!i\'er, to be ready to assist 
 any party that may dii'cct their course that waw" 
 
 'i'he ilth ol .Inly. bSiS, hiimd the Eiilrrprisi ami I urcsliijutDr 
 of fill' third e\|M'dilion at the Hanisli settlement oi' I'per- 
 na\'il\ : IVom I hi- poiM Sii' ,lame< ( 'lai'k IJosswrolea letter to 
 the ISriti.-h Adnhraltv >tatinL!,' that after pa->in,u,' a second
 
 ^77.' JAMJ:S CLAllK BOSS 99 
 
 winter near Port Leopold, should no traces of Sir John 
 l''ranklin\s i)ar{y be discovc^-ed, ]\v would S(uid tho Invest igdtur 
 under Captain Bird back to England and ])roceed with the 
 search alone. 
 
 This causiMl ^-reat uneasiness at the Admiralty, and the 
 Xorth Slur was at once des])atched with a supply of extra 
 storeys and instruction to Eoss to remain in company with 
 \\\v rnvvsiiijator and not follow out the desi<2;n cxpresscMl in 
 his letter. The Xorth Star was further instructed that 
 should slu^ fail to reach the slh])s, stores were to be left at the 
 fai-tliest point slie could I'cach. in safety, and then she should 
 return to England. Though (explicitly warned against 
 getting beset in th(^ ice, the season of 1849 passed, and the 
 Xorth Star did not return, thus causing great anxiety in 
 I'^n gland as to he^r safety. 
 
 To return to tlu^ Entcrprinc and Investigator, these two 
 shi])s, after k^aving Upc^rnavik, had found v(My unfavourable 
 conditions in the ice, which necessitated towing the shii)s 
 or proccHMling slowl.y und(>r light winds and calms. By the 
 2od of August, tlu> ships had reached Pond J^ay, having 
 sustained se\'ere shocks through ice pi-essure and other dis- 
 couraging conditions. Tlic-y kept close to the shore, firing 
 gun.s and sending u]) signals at fre(]U(Mit intervals, but no 
 sign of Iv-kinios oi' otlier human beings w(M'(^ discovered. 
 
 rt)on reaching Possession Jiay, a ])arty was s(H"it on shore 
 to search for traces of the exjxMlition. l)ut nothing was found 
 (>xc(^i)t ;i ])a]ier k>ft thc^re l)y Sir Edwai'd I^arr^y on the same 
 day (August oO) in LSI 9. Again at Ciipe York another 
 ]')ai'ty went ashore, and. tliough no traces wen^ iound, a con- 
 spicuous mai'k was (M'CM'ted for the benefit of aii\' othcM' i)arty 
 that might I'rach thei'(\ 'Lhe ships tlien proceeded. 
 
 'A\'e ^to()(l over," wi'ites Sii' James Loss, "toward Noi'th- 
 enst ('m]);' until we ("une in with tlie (Mlge of a jiack. too 
 dense for us to ])enetrat(^, l\'ing Ijetween us and Leopold
 
 100 
 
 THE (,RKAT WHITE yoivni 
 
 Island, alioul fourteen miles broad ; we therefore coasted the 
 north shore of Barrow Strait, to seek a liarl)our further to 
 the westwai'd. and to examine the numerous inlets (jf that 
 shore. Alaxwell Bay, and several smaller indentations, were 
 thoi'ou<i'hly ex])lored, and, although we ^ot near the entrance 
 of \\'ellington Channel, the firm harriei' of ice \vliich stretched 
 across it, and which liad not hrokcui away this sea>on, con- 
 ^•ince(l us all was im])racticable in that direction. We now- 
 stood t(j the southwe>t to seek for a harbour near CajX' \\r\\- 
 nell. but found a hea\'y body of ice (\\tendinu' from the west 
 of ( 'oi'uwallis T.-land. ( 'oast n,u; alon^ the ])ack dui'ini;; 
 stormy and fojiRA' weathei', we had difliculty in kee])in<i; tiie 
 shi])- free durin.u' the ni,uhts, foi- I believe so ureat a. (juan- 
 tit\' of ice wa~^ ne\"er befcji'e seen in Pjai'row Strait at tlii'^ 
 })eriod of the season."" 
 
 P)y the 11th of Sejitember. the shi])- found wintei' f[U;ii'ters 
 in the harbour of Port Leopold, and almo.-t innnediately tee 
 ice pack (•lo>ed in and foi'med a com])lete barrier hir the I'c- 
 mainder of tlie wintei'. \'arious exi)loi-iiiL;,' and >ui'\'eyin^ 
 journeys were undertaken dui'in^' this winter and the coa-t 
 cai'etull}' examined in all direction.-, but no trace of Franklin 
 ()]■ hi- >hips wa> di.-co\'ei'e(l. 
 
 Idie crew cauiiht in tra])> a numbei- of white foxes, and 
 knowinti" how far the-e .animal- will roam in -carcli n\ f(io(l, 
 the men cla-jH'd round the animal-" neck- coppci' collai">. on 
 which Were written tlu' po-i'ioii of tin- -hip- and dcpdt- nf 
 l)ri '\'i-ion.-. and the creatui'e- \\"fre -et a1 libcrt\" in tiit- Impe 
 they WoiiJd lie cauu'ht by -dme of the ill-i.ated p;it'ty. 
 
 I )iirini:- April and Ma\\ ( ';ipt .-iiii Po--. acciimpaiiicd b\- Licu- 
 teii;int M'f'lintock ;ind ;i paiMy of twip.-c men. carefully ex- 
 plorcil ll.c c( ,;i-l-lilie o)' the norlhcl'll ;uid We-teni eoa-t o.f" 
 l)( i()t lii:i Penin-ul;i. 
 
 "The c\;iniill;i I ion of llic ci;;i-t."" Write- ('aptaUl Pi>--. 
 "Wa- pur-iled Ulllil the fiflh 111' .bme. when. hcA'imi C(i|l-l.;;r d
 
 SIR JAML'S (LA UK lioSS- 
 
 101 
 
 luoi'c lliun half our provisions, and ihc slrt'ii<i,ih i)\' rlic ]ian;y 
 ix'iu.ii nuicli reduced. 1 was reluctantly coin])elled to abandon 
 fui'lhei' operations, as it was, moi'eover, necessary to jiive 
 tlie men a day of rest. P)Ut that the time mi<i;ht not bo 
 wholly lost, I pi'oeeeded with two hands to the (\\trem(> 
 soulh point in si<2,ht from our encampment, distant about 
 ei*;ht or nine miles." 
 
 DiU'in^- the absence of C'a])tain Ross, other ])arties had 
 e\])loi'ed the vicinity of ( "ai)e Hind, and another along the 
 western shore. This last party und(a' Jdeutenant Robinson 
 reachi'd as far as C'resswell Bay, a few miles to the south- 
 ward of Fui'y Beach. He found the house in which Sir 
 John Iioss had wintered in 1S32-18;>], with a ([Uantity of 
 s1ore< and prcjvisions of the Fury, that had been there since 
 1827. anil were in excelh/nt stat(^ of ])i'eservation. 
 
 ]^i'ep:u'ai ions were now made for lea\'in,u' I'oi't Le(_)])old, 
 Captain Ross's object beinji; to examine \\'ellin,uton Channel 
 and, if fea-ible, to ])enetrate as far as ^vleh-ille Island. To 
 thi< end it was necessary to set to work with ice-saws and 
 cut ;l channel of over 1 wo miles thai the shijjs niijiht be freeil. 
 ""I'lii- tediou-; work was acc(_)m])li-^he(l by the last of Au.u;ust. 
 I ml before li'a\in,ii', a sheltei' wa> built on land, twelve months" 
 ])ro\'i-ion<, a >team-launch, !)elon'j,in,ti: to the I iirrsliijntdr, and 
 such other -tores bein^' left ttehind as would be found wel- 
 come to Sir .lohii l-'ranklin"s p:u'ty .-hould the\' reach that 
 spot. llai'dl\- had the shijj^ u'ot under ^\■;ly when a stroiiu; 
 wind bi'on!i.'h{ the ice down on them, and they were soon beset. 
 
 l'\)r >ome day.- it -(■emeil ;i- if the shi])< wei'c hard fa-1 for 
 a dreary winter, but the wind -hifted to t he we-1 wai'd. the 
 whole !)od\' ot' ice bein.u' drix'en to the ea>twai'd. and in the 
 Centre of a field of ice more ih;tn fifty mile.- in circumfei'ence, 
 the shi])s were carried alotai' the southern .-hoi'e of Lanca.-ier 
 Souiid^ After ])a<-iiai' it- entrance, they drifted alonii' the 
 w«--tern .-hore of Pjafhn Wiiy until alirea-l of Pond l^ay, when.
 
 102 ■lilE- CHEAT WIIITK XOltTII 
 
 wi'th' a suddcnncsA that, was all but Diii'aculous, the field broke 
 into iiinunierable fra;i;iiient.s, and the ships ^\'e!•e tVeed. 
 
 ''At once all sail was set, war])s were run out from all 
 Cjuarter-, to assist the shi]) throu<i,'h the hea\-y floe>, anrl at 
 last the f nrcsUgn.lor and K/iterj/rise found themselves in (j])eii 
 water." 
 
 '"It is im})o-sil)le," writes Iif)ss, "'to eonvey any idea of 
 the s('n<:i1 ioii we expei'U'ueed wlien we found <;ur.-elves once 
 more at liberty ; nuuiy a heart [)Oured forth its j)i'aise> asid 
 thank<;iivin<is to Almi<i'hty (\o(\ h)V this imlooked-for deliv- 
 erance. 
 
 ''The advance oF winter had now closed all the luu'bcyurs 
 aLi'ainst us; and a< it \va< impo,->il)le to t)eneti'a1e lo ih(; 
 wes1\v;u'd throu.u,'h the ])ack from which we had ju-t be(ai 
 lib(>ratefl, ] made lh(' >i,unal to the [ iic( stiijainr of my inten- 
 tion to feiurn 1o l-in,ii,iaud.'' 
 
 TI'Us the three ex])edition< so far ,-ent out \\\iA not met 
 v;itli >ucces>, aiMi the aiixiety in I'in,u'land over l!i'' late oi 
 llie l-Jr^'hiis and 'Fii'mr \va- increa.-in,ti'. In March. bSlN. tlu; 
 Admi!'all\' offered liie sum of out' hundi'''d; uuineas oi' moi'o 
 to til'' i'f(-w- of a.ny wi'.alinu' -liip> iha! -hould l)rin,ii' accui'ale 
 tidin'i- oi' tlie nu>-in,tj,' -liip< aii'l oi ld"a.nl\liiu 
 
 In Mai'ch, ISb), the Ibiti-h. .u'o\-cfmnent ofi'ci'erl a.uot her 
 rf-wanl oi' twentv' thou-and poimds "to -ucli pri\'ate .-hip, 
 or' 1 iv di-t i"ibui ioi! anionu' .-uch prix'alc ship-, o!' to any ex- 
 plnrin'i- party or pai'tic-, oi' any count ;'y, a- iniulii. in, ttK- 
 jU'l^Mcni oi' tlic i'o.Mi'd ol' AdrfiU'aby, ha\'(' reiidfacd clh'-icnt 
 a--r-i-nK'i' to Sir .lolni !-d;uil\lin. lii.- .-Iiip,<, or da-ic (M'i w-, and. 
 niia'hi ii;! \-i' colli ril Jilted direct ly to ext ricitc 1 hem fro ni i iie ice.'' 
 
 l.;c!y i'r.^uiiJin, wh(.i-c dex'otion and <-oiira,'.'c h.-id won the 
 a' !nij!',! 1 ii CI III' t'l'' woi'lil. oifcrcd 1 wo t liiiusand ])o:!n'!s aiul 
 ilir<-i- ii:(in-and pound.- to officer,- aid cr(-A' of an.y -!iip tliat 
 ^^iluid f'iider a--i-t:inee to Ijcr liu-!i;iiid and. if ic ■cc--ar \', 
 lirncj.' Sir joini i-'ranl\hn and t lie jrirt \' back 1 o I-uiiiland.
 
 THE LADV FRANK LIX EXPEDITIOX 108 
 
 In the s]~)rin,L!; of 1849, sh(' sent out jji'ovisions and coal for 
 the use of the inissin;U; shi])s, and th(\s(> \v('r<> carrifMl in tlic 
 wlialin.i; siii]) Trudorc. in c'hai'g;(> of ^Ir. Parkcf, and were 
 landed at Ca'pe II;iy on the south sid(^ of Lanea>t(U' Sound. 
 
 In IS 19, Dr. (Soodsii', whose brother had sailed in th(> 
 Er(l)u--< as assistant sufii,-eon, went north on tlu^ whaling ship 
 .l(/('/re, under ('a])lain J^enny, and penetratet' to Lancaster 
 Sourvd, hut was (h^harred from entering Prince^ Ivegent 
 Inlcl 1)\' the ice. The Ailricc closely skirted the shores, and 
 de-posited ])ro\"isions, but found no traces of the missing ships, 
 and I't'tui'ued to I'Jigland. In the meantime, the Enterprise 
 and I nrcstitjdtor, the gallant ships of the third government 
 exixnlilion pi'eviously des('ri])ed, were being I'efitted and 
 ])ro\-ision(Ml for tlu^ ]nn'])()se of going by way of k^outh America 
 to l-'ehi'ing Sti'ait. Sailing fi'om Plymouth Sound January 20, 
 IS,-)!). \\[c Etilvr prise under \\\v conmiand of ('a])tain liicliard 
 Collinsoii, and the I tir( stiijator und(M- Commander Ar('lui'(>, 
 made a com]);u'atively fast ru.n to the Pacific. P}' tlu> middle 
 of August (lie Enterprise fell in with the ice. At (IraiUly 
 Ibirbor. eommuiiicatioii with tlu^ Phu'er and I E'r etld dvivr- 
 miiiiMl ('ai)tain Colliiison to ])roceed to Hongkong, tlier(^ 
 to r('i)l('i!:>li lii> stores ;ind not attc^ni])! to ])enetrate the ice 
 imi il t!ie following Ai)ril. 
 
 In the meantime the XnrtJ) Star with h(^r ]irovisions and 
 dcs])atch('s had speiil \]ie vri'.itei' in Xoi'th Star Ixiy. in ^^'ol- 
 sii'iil;o!me Sound. 7()^ '■]'■]' north l;!tilud(> and ()S° ,")(')' v.'est 
 lotigit udc. Not ur.til August, LS.IO, did >]i(> gd frc(> of Ikm' 
 I'ctrt^at, ari'l some da\s hitcr in Laricastei' Sound she s])oke 
 the IjiiIij Frntiidin and Sopiiia uucUm' the connnand of .Mr. 
 Penny. I'lie-c ship< had bc(Mi e(iuii)])i>d mainly at the e\- 
 ])ense of Lai'>" l'"rankli!i : had >alle(l cai'l}' in tlio spi'ing and, 
 tliituuli iniicijcndcnt of lh(> go\'oi'mnent expeditions, were 
 to cor>p('i'ate with th.em ;i- rircumst anc(^s ilemanded.. I,ater 
 the Xartli Stirr fell in with the f(li.r, a sch.ooner-riuiieil v( ><oI
 
 lol 
 
 THE (.i!i:Ar WHITE y()irrii 
 
 of one huiKircd and twenty tons, ])rovi>ion('(l for ciuhtccn 
 months and under that veteran sea cajjlain and exploi'er. 
 Sir John l{os>. The Fdix luid been efjuijiped dy ])uhh(' 
 siidseri])tion and sent out for the ])Ui"])o>e of searchin;: the 
 west side of the entrance of \\'enin<i;t()n Channel fi'oni ('ape 
 Ilotha.iii to I)anks Land. 
 
 The XiiriJi Star de])osited a (juantity of ])i'ovisions at a 
 point the coniniaiHler named Xavy I^oard Inlet, on the 
 mainhuid behind \\(jlla-~ton Island, and ei'ected a caii'n and 
 flap,staff. ha\in,L;; fii'st made an unsuccessful attem])t to I'cach 
 Fort I>owen and Port Xeale. In Po.<>es-ion liay she >i)oke 
 the I'rincc AUxrt, that <i'allant little ci'id't, e(]uii)ped in (;i'eater 
 ])art liy the de\-oted Pad}' I-'ranklin. who h;id i';!i.-e(l the nee- 
 e>-;ai'y funds by sellin.u,' out all per>onal securities which sh(> 
 could le,^■ally touch. Conunander ('harles ('. I'"or>yth and 
 Mr. W. P. Snow had volunteei'ed theii- sei'\'ice< willuMit 
 comjx'nsat ion, and the object ol' this exj)edition w;i> to exam- 
 ine th(- s!iore> of Pj'ince Heucnt Inlet and t he ( '. ulf of Pjoot hia 
 and >end out ti'a\'ellin^ ))arties to examine the west side of 
 Boothia down to i)<'a,-e ;uid Simp-on sti'aits. 
 
 Siiortlx' after t hi-. the.\'e/7// >7r//' t urneil homewai'd, reachiiiL!; 
 S[)itheail, I'hi.ulaiid, Septeml lei' 2n, 1s.")(). 
 
 The P)i'iti-h i!.'o\'ernmeii1 had. by now outfitted two sti'onu; 
 teak-built -liips, the Utsnlnlr and the Assistn ncr. ;md two 
 
 >te;iiii \-,.-,-cl-, t!ie I'ioiiur all<! I I'ln jliil. The objrcl (if \\i\^ 
 
 expedition was to renew the -eai'ch by way of I'adin Pj.'iy and 
 P;inc;i-tei' Soimd. ('aptain IP T. Au-tin comm;inded the 
 III .■■-<il nil , ('aptain ()mnianey the Assisln nn . Pieutdiant 
 Shcrnrd •)~lM)i'n the I'lnmir, und Pieutenani ('(inuiiMnder 
 (■;il(ir l!if I nln jiiil. t )!' wT.at the}' acci mipli-hed, we -hall 
 
 A- e;u-l\- a- April b ls!!>. P;id\- PrnnlJin had m;c|e ;! h(';irl- 
 reiidiiiu ;ippe:ii !o t he Pri-i,PilI i if 1 he P 111 led St;iti--, in wliicJ! 
 >!ie r;i||ed (iM t hr Ami'l'ic;in llalioU, a> a ■d^indre(l pcdplcj
 
 FiL'ST (;iii.\.\ i:ll kxpeditiox 105 
 
 to join luMU't and hand in th(> (MitcM'pt'iso of snatching the lost 
 navigators from a dr(\iiy grave." rfuch an ekxiiuuit ajipcal 
 conld not help but rouse; the country to the strongest fecshng 
 of sympathy and interest. But the prolonged delays incident 
 to our national legislation threatened to d(>feat her request, 
 until a gcMKM'ous ])hilanthropist, ^Ir. Henry CTrinnell, a New 
 York merchant of gr(>at wealth, stepped forward with the 
 munificent offer of two well-(>quipp(Hl vessels, the Advance 
 of one hundi'ed and forty tons, and the Rescue of ninety tons, 
 which \w ])la('ed at the disposition of the government. Con- 
 gr(\-^s accc])t(Ml this g'MKM'ous gift, and the shij^s were ]:)laced 
 under the direction of the Navy Board. The command was 
 gi\'en to Lieutenant K. T)e Haven, a most zealous and able 
 na\-al office^-; ^Ir. Almxlock was sailing mast(>r, with Dr. 
 E. K. Kane, that remarkable^ man "weak in body but great 
 in mind," whose succeeding journeys contributed so nuich 
 to solving the mystery surrounding the fat(^ of tlu^ lost shi])s. 
 
 The (Jrinnell exp(Mlition l(>ft N(nv York on May 23, 1850, 
 and was absent about sixteen months. 
 
 It will thus \)c s(H'n that the Arctic seas had never been so 
 repl(>t(' with expenlitions, whose li'M'oic object was the search 
 for missing conn-ades ; and the year 1850-1851 was one of 
 unparalleled advimtui'e, ex])l()ration, and discoveny, but 
 ahis ! only the most m(>agi'e trac(\s of the brave mariners 
 wci'e found, whose dejilorable fate stirred the symi)ath3' of the 
 civilizfMi world. 
 
 The mifa\()ura])l(^ conditions of tlu^ "middk^ ic(>" in Baffin 
 I^ay and tlu^ Ab-lville ]')ay barri(M- caused tlie searching (\x])e- 
 ditions gr(\it di(iiculti(N and discouraging decays. So strenu- 
 ous were the conditions at tun(\s that \\\v officers and crc>ws 
 (>fth(^ smaher \'ess('ls made evei'y pr(>i)aration to leax'c the 
 ships at a monuMil's notice^, shouhl these \'essels \)c crushed in 
 tl'.i^ ic(-. l-)\' boi'ing. tracking, and cutting, and l)y o\w shi]) 
 towing t!ie other through loose ice as \hv occasion (UMuauded,
 
 lOi; THE CliKAT WHITE XOinTl 
 
 slow but steady advance \\-;is made to the dcsii'cd latitudes. 
 Alosl interest ii^i;' are the experienees of the little Prince 
 Alixrt, J.ad\' i'"rauklin"s shi}). 
 
 In d(\scril,'in,i;' a darin^u; attack of this little craft upon iee- 
 lioes. Air. Snow \vi'it(>s most <;'raphically : — 
 
 "It was determined hy ('aptani l'\)i'syth boldly to fry and 
 bi'eak tln'ouii'li the impediment, by forcinsj; \\ic shi]) undfM' a 
 ])ress of can\-a,s. Accordinul}', all sail was set and the shi]) 
 v.'as st(H'rii>!i,' dii'ect for the narrowest and most bi'oken ])art 
 of ihe neck. As this was th(> hrst and only \h\\c the Pri]ic(> 
 Albert was ma<!e to come direct upon the ice to break it with 
 the h)rc(> she would dei'i\"e fi'om a pi'css of sail, W(^ wei'e all 
 anxious to see how slie would stand it : andi ri^t^ht well did slu^ 
 bear the tot. The two mates wei'e alofi in tlu^ 'crow's 
 nest ' to con tiie vessel : I was standin.i;; on the ("xti'eme point 
 of her bow :md holdiiiii; on by the h)re-stay to dii'eet her 
 mo\'em(Mit when innnediiately upon the ice; and ('aptain 
 Foiv^yth was by the side of the helmsiuan. I'A'ci'y man was 
 at some pai'ticular station, and I'cady to ])ei'form anythin,ii; 
 that wa< instantly re(|uii'ed of him. Cook and steward wei'e 
 al-o on deck : and 1 lu'ouulhiut the ship an almost bj-ea.thless 
 anxiety pi'e\'ailed ; ['or. it nuist be remembei'ed. it was not a 
 lai'iic and powerful shii), but a small, and com])arati\'ely 
 frairiie one, that was now about to try of Ihm' own accoi'd, 
 and with her own sti'enuth. to bi'eak a ])iece of ice some h'ct 
 teick, tliou'iji not \'ei'y bi'oad. (hi eitliei' side of her Were 
 he;i\y (ioe^ and scouce pieces; and it i'e(|ui!'e(l the u'l'eatest 
 nie.-iy in u;;i(!iMu- hei', that sli(> miu'ht, in hei' stroimc-l i)ai't, 
 the !i(iw. hit l!ie pi'eei~e spot wticre the neck Wa^ Weake-t, 
 and not coMie i;poi! any othei' part where she could do nothinii; 
 but -'■\'erc!y injui'e lier-eH". 
 
 "< 'n -iie caHie. at a rale of |'i:ll jl\-e mile- per honi' : ii'aininu', 
 a- -ic [iroce,-. led, iina-ea-i'd impel u-. uulil >tie I'u-hed !owa>rds 
 it witii a .-peed of at lea-t ei,ii,hl miles in the hour. The dis-
 
 THE LADV FJIAXKLJX EXI'EDITION 107 
 
 lance from the neck was about a mile, and the breeze Ijlew 
 steadily ui)on it. The wealcest and narrowest i)art ^\'as tiiat 
 (•lo<e to the starboard floe, and to that our eyes were all 
 directed. 
 
 ■'M.^ort! starboard! So — — steady!' was every now 
 and then l)awled out with stentorian lungs from aloft, and as 
 energetically and i)romi)tly re])eated, by the captain below, 
 to tlie man at tlu- wheel. Presently she came close to — she 
 was almo.-t up(jn it — a inistaken hail from aloft would have 
 put her helm a-port, and sent her crush irtg u])on tlie heavy 
 floe. I heard the order 'd-port,' and, before it had been i"e- 
 peated, sh(jut(.'(l loudly, ^\■ith the riK^i arotnid me, who also 
 saw tlie mistake, 'starlxjard ! slorhoard! hard a-starhoard !' 
 and in tlie next instant, with a tremendous blow, that for the 
 moment made liei' rebound and tremble, she struck the ice 
 ill th(^ exaet ])oint, and caused it to rend apart in several 
 fragments. Ice ])oles and boat hooks were imme(liately 
 in I'fHiuest ; and m\'s<'lf and lialf a dozen iikmi s]:)rang instantly 
 over the bows, working with hands and feet and wilh all our 
 might in remo\'ing the bi'oken ])ieces iiy jiushing them ahead 
 (jf ihe ve>sel ; in \vhich lal)ou;', slie, herself, matei'ially aideil 
 u- by her own ]){)wer ])ressiiig lupoti them. In a moment or 
 two it was effected, and throwing ours(>lv(\s ab(.)ard again 
 like so man\' wild c;it<, we prei)ared for th(> next encounter. 
 
 ■' Tliis, ho\ve\'ei', ])ro\'ed not hing lilvc- tlie otluM'. The fii'st 
 blow s(>nt the whole oi' it fl\'ing in all directions, and the little 
 Prince, as if i.n hauiih.ly disdain, ])as-(Ml through A\'ithout once 
 sto])piiig. ])ushing asid(> the ]ii(>ce<, as tliex' came ag;iinst hei'. 
 In another moment or two wr were in a larg"r sheet (jf water, 
 rliougli to our disa])])ointme!it l)locked up at the extreme end 
 by small bergs and huu'e hu!iimocks. whieh latter had, a]")- 
 ]);u'ent!y, been thus thrown up in c()n.-e(iuence of some late 
 severe' sijueeze there, ^^'e \V(M'e, therefore, again obIiLi-e(! to 
 mak(> fa.-t."'
 
 108 
 
 THE CUEAT WIIITK M)irni 
 
 'riiiirsdiiy, Au<i,'us1 1.1, ^\v. Snow makes Ihc cnti'v, "\\'(' 
 \\'('r(\, now, faii'lx' in \\iia1 is called l)y Arctic seamen, the 
 'North W'atei'/ and all seemed clea.r before lis." 
 
 By the 21st the little Pr'nivc Alhni found herself off Port 
 Leo])()ld. llei'e a ])ai'ty made a diflicult landin<2,' in a giitta- 
 ])ercha boat and found the house constructed by Sir .Itunes 
 (\ Ross, somewhat rent 1)y the winter stoi'ins, but the ])i'o- 
 \'isions were in excellent condition and the little steam-launch 
 read}' to carry any shij)wrecked crew to sah'ty. 
 
 The I'riucc Alhcrl now made foi' Prince Rei^'ent Inlet, 
 and soon after stood off I''ur>' lieach. l''roni this point the 
 outlook was disc()uraj;in,i!;, as an expatise of hummock}' ice 
 without the sli,a;htest sii>;n of an openinji; extended as far as 
 the ('}'(■ could reach. 
 
 It was now found nec(^ssary to abandon the main object 
 of the expedition: that is, the examination of the shoi'cs of 
 lioothia, and the shij) turned with the pui'i)o>e of clo.-ely 
 scaimin<>,' the shores and headlands at the lin'oat of P)arro\\' 
 Stra.it and a short distance up Wellington ( 'liamiel. In liar- 
 row Strait, the\' s])()ke the .Xmei'ican bi-ia,- Adfn/icf : \)y \\\v 
 21th they neai'ed ('ape Hind. ( )n this day they saw the 
 Jjiih/ l-'niitldin and Sop/iia, and latei' obsei'X'ed three more 
 ships in \\'ellini;ton ( 'hamiel. 
 
 The next da_\'. while off ('ape Spencei', the oflicers of the 
 I'ni/cc Allxii saw that to push fui'ther into the ice-pack 
 throiii!,h the lew lanes still open mi^lit mean, in case ol a 
 sudden nip, bcino- shut up lor the winter, so it wa> I'eluctaiil ly 
 d<'cid('d i() m;ike lor home. 
 
 bea\in^ behind them that noble lleet of scai'diim;, X'esscls, 
 inclui lin'j,- the Assislii/ici , \\ic IjuIij I-' ninl.-li ii . t he No/^///V/, 1 he 
 lit sc,ii\ .and, ihouuii not xisibic, the .T//v///rr and Inlnjiiil, 
 ilic I'rinci Alli(ii turned her bow homewai'd. At ('ape ltil<'\' 
 theolliccr- n(^liccd;i -iimal-po^t and iuniiei lial ely >enl a boat 
 a- iioi'c I o di-co\iT wh;it it meant .
 
 CAPTAIX OMMAXKY 109 
 
 "As tlu' boat touched the 8h(>lvinG; rocks," \vrit(\s "Sir. 
 8no\v, "1 hastily sprang out into th(> wat(>r, Itniving the men 
 to secure hcv ; and ran to the signal-post about fifty yards olT. 
 I was ther(> in a moment, with (irate closc^ at my heels. A 
 few ])aces otf I obscM-vcnl another and a rougher ])ost (M'ccted, 
 but this one had a small flag fiying, and was (>vi(l{>ntly the 
 lirincipal. I nvdly cannot tell wlu^ther tlu^ cylinder- handed 
 to u\v in the course of a second or two had \)vvn buried or 
 merely tied to the post, so intent was I upon conjecturing 
 wliat news I should rcHMMve. My hands trc^mbh^l with (>ag(M- 
 n(^ss, and I could hai'dly read the jxipcM-. It was as follows : — 
 
 '"Her ^Majesty's Arctic S(nu'ching Exix'dition. 
 
 '"This is to certify that Captain Ommane}', with tlie 
 ofHcers of \\vv Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid, landed 
 at ('ai)e Ril(\\' on the 23d of August, bSoO, wlun'c \iv found 
 trac(^s of an encam]im(uit, and collected th(> remains of mate- 
 rials which (n'idently i^rove that some party bc^longing to her 
 Majesty's sliijis hav(> Ikhmi detainc^d on this spot. B(M'ch(\v 
 Island was also examined, where traces wcn'c found of the 
 s;un(^ party. 
 
 '"This is also to give notice^ th.at a suj'jply of provisions and 
 fuel is at Port Leo])old. Iler Majesty's shii)s. Assistance 
 and Intr( pi'I, wew di^laclied fr(.)m {\\e squadron und(M' ("a])tain 
 Austin, off \\'olstenh()lm(\ on tlu^ l-lth inst.. since when they 
 have ('xamined the north shor(>s of Lanc'a>ter Sound and 
 Barrow Strait, without nicM'ting any other trac(\s. Cai^tain 
 Onimanney ])roc(H>ds to ('ai)(^ Hotham and ( 'a])e ^^'alkel• in 
 s(>arch for furth(>r traces of Sir John Franklin's (wixnlition. 
 
 '"Dated on boartl ]\vv Majesty's shi]) Assistance, off ('a])(^ 
 Riley, August '23, bSoO. 
 
 '"Erasmi's Ommanky.' " 
 
 " Aftei' the otluM' signal-post luid been examined." continue^ 
 'Sir. Snow. " 1 made a cai'eful obseiA'at ion of e\"i'r\ thinu ai'ound
 
 1 1 
 
 Tin: GllKAT WHITE yORTH 
 
 \vj'. :uiu cijiiiiiifii'-oil a^ clo^f an mvc-tmutioii as t}i(> hurried 
 iialurc of my \-i>iT, acr(, .riling' to \i\y or'li'r>, jx-rinitTcd nic. 
 The men !i;ul ;ii.-(j. ])n'\-i(jusly to my tclliii<r tlicni ;ui(l with 
 an ahicrity that diil them credit, connnenced a most ])i'yin,i>; 
 >(-arch. t )iie in a -h(.)rt time bi'ou.iiht me ahout an inch and a 
 hah' sfiU:il'<' ])iece of can\"a< Weil bleached: another, the 
 seccjnd mate, moi'e fortunate, di<co\-ered u ])iece of rope, a.s 
 I -u])i)o-ed a I'atlin, and which wa- found to contain the 
 C'hatliam Dock-yard \a\'\" mark;'' a tiiird found a jtieceof 
 l)(»ne, vritli two lude- l.(;i-eil in it. I5('ef lio.'K.-. and other 
 unmi-taka'oli' marks of the |")lace ha\'inu; hecn u-ed within 
 some \'(-ry few year.< hy a J'arty of liu!'o|)ean>. fi^r xmie j)ur- 
 ])o-e or (ii her, were dl!-c(n'ered. ddie ui'ouiid, ])re-en{ed \'ery 
 much ihi- a])i)earance ui havin,ii' keen turned iutM an encamp- 
 ment, for cert;iin .-tone- were x) ])lace(l a- t'l lead to the in- 
 ference tlia! tent- had k(M'n ('reeled witiiin some of lin-ir 
 (■nclo-u!'e-. anil in others a fire mi.ii'lit ha\'e keen made. Ijut ikj 
 ni;u'l:- ol" lii'e Were \-i-i! )le. 
 
 ■■ Fo'ur of ih'---e circuku' ] Parcel- of -tone- 1 cnunteik and. ok- 
 .-er\'eii ;inii;:i(-r A\'kieh miu'ht or miu'lit imt kax'e 1 uen a lif'h." 
 
 < 'ontinukiiL' hei' honieward \'oy;tu,'e wikii lier preeinu- relic.-, 
 th" rru,<'< ,1/''. /7 reackeil Akej-dceu. Octoker 1, Tlie Adnn- 
 r;!ky i' leukhied i 'le kit of iMpe a- keinir n;i\"y-yari 1 manufaeture 
 (if niM ktl.-r than l^ll. Tke raiiv,-)- w;;- al-o k. ke\-r.l to ke 
 oi' Ik'ni-li ni;i!nif;ici ure. d lie meiu kone- >eeiii(Ml to keai' 
 ex:iet'y 'he mar'x- .if t!ie -tii]''- prox'i-ion- u-ed akout fi\'(- 
 
 ye:u-- licck. and tk' iviie- Were identified a- keldiiLlhm to tke 
 il:-'a--d A'--'e . ::Md r. ■:-,■■. 
 
 A- -'!m:i ::- i' w:,- l-;nowii iinmnu ike oth'^r -e:u'cliin:i: ]):irii( - 
 t':'ii l':i!i';::i; ' >M i! : ., , nev k'ld found i race- nf ti:< ini--Uli;: 
 e- O'A';' 'j .1,. k'i--. Au-'':n. I'^imx'. end, I )e l!;i\en keL:;in ;i 
 n''iei'' in-,--' iu-u 'Mil i,\ !!:e - u ri'i .lu 1 d i u Li kn-ility end pro\-('d 
 
 t;,:;' ('lip'- :-';"-n:-er ;t;id ileeckey I-!and et tke e!l'r:ince i)\ 
 ' \:,: ■: ret.e- |,;e.-.. <M.rt;,i,, T|,p ;,,!, Mi' r. >\ nV wlluV,. eU-.. kli.l il!
 
 HeNUV ( iULWKLL
 
 LIEUTENANT OSBOHN 111 
 
 AW'Uiiiiilun ("liaiincl had ])(Hni without doubt the site of 
 Fraukliu's firrst wiiUcr (luartcrs. At ("upe Spencer, some 
 ten miles above Cape Kiley, a <z;round i)laee for a tent was 
 found, the lioor ]xiv(hI with small stones. Al)out the tent 
 l)irds' bones and meat canisters wer(> found. Numerous 
 slediix^ tracks alonti' th(> shore were also noticed. 
 
 Of the examination of l^eechey Island, Lieutenant (_)sborn 
 writes : — 
 
 ''A long ])oint of land slojx^s graduall}' from the soutluM-n 
 ]_)luffs of this now dec'ply intcnn^sting island, until it almost 
 connects ilsdf witli the land of Xorth J)evon, formini!; on 
 either side of it two good iind connnodious Iniys. On this 
 slopc^ a multitude of ])reserv(Ml-meat tins were strcnvtnl about ; 
 and lunu' them, and on tlu^ ridge of the sloyie. a can^fully 
 conslructed cairn A\'as discovcM'ed ; it censisted of la}'ers oi 
 fitted tiUiS. flll(>(l with gravel, and ])lac(Hl to form a firm and 
 solid hiundaiion. ]^e\'ond thi>, and jdong the northern shore 
 of ]^e(~chey Island, tlu> following trac(\s were then Cjuickly 
 tliscoviMHHl : the (mibankment of a liouse, with car])enters' 
 una armorers" working i)l;ices, washing tubs, coal-bags, 
 pieces of old cloth.ing, r()p(\ and. histly, tlu^ gra\"es of three of 
 the ci'ew of the ]''nhiis and Terror, ])(>aring date of tli(> winter 
 of 1Sl")-bSlt). \\'v. lher(>fore. now had ;iscertained the first 
 ^^'intc■r-(luar^ei■s of Sii' .lohu I'ranklin. 
 
 "On the r';istern >lope of the ridge of h'xHH'liey Island, a I'em- 
 nant of a gnrdtai (for rcje.nant it now only was, luu'ing be(Mi 
 dug u]) in the si^iU'c!:) told ;)n intei'e-ling t;de: it< U-cally- 
 sha])ed, oval outlin(\ the bonlei' carefully foi'me(l of mo>s 
 lichen. pop])ies, and anemones, t raiis])lanted fixHu >onie more 
 geni;d pm'l of thi- di'eary region.— contri\-(Ml still to show 
 >\'mpioms of vitality: but the seeds which, doubtless, tliey 
 luul s()W(h1 in the garden had <lecLiy(Hl :i\va\". 
 
 "Nearer to the bead;, a hea]) of cindei's and scrai^s oi iron 
 showed tlie armorer's workin.g-plac(> : and, along an old water-
 
 11l> 
 
 ruE CHEAT WHITE yOUTTT 
 
 course, now cIkuiumI up by frost, s(>\-(M'al 1ul)s, construct (mI of 
 the cuds of s;ilt-!n(^;it casks, left no doubt as to the \vashin<^- 
 ])hiV('s of the men of Franklin's s([ua(lron. Ilaj^pcMiin.ti; to 
 cross a le\('l ))iece of ii;i'oun(h which as yet no one had huhted 
 ui)oii, I was ])l(>ased to see a ])air of cashmere liloves hiid out 
 to (h'\', with two smaU stones on the ])ahus to ])r(>vent llieir 
 blowing away ; they had been tluM'e sincc^ 1841). I took 
 thcnn u]) carefully, as melancho!\' mementoes of my nussinj;; 
 fri(Mids. In anotlu^r s])()t a flannel was discovercHl ; and this, 
 togetluM' with som(> thin<;'s lyinu; al)oul, would, in my iiiuoi'ance 
 of wintei-in^u' in the Arctic reu;ions, have led m(> to sup])()se tliat 
 there was c()!isideral)le hast(> dis])layed in the d(^i)arture of 
 the Er<'})us and Terror from the s])()t, had not ('aptain Austin 
 assured me that tluMX^ was uothin.a; to iiiround such a belief 
 ui'jon, and that, fi'om experience, he could vouch lor these 
 beinu: nothinii' more than the ordinai\v traces of a winter sta- 
 tion ; and this o])ini()n was full>' boi'ue out by those oilicers 
 who had, in the ])revious y(>ai'. wintereil in Poi't L(H)])old. one 
 of them assertin<>; that people left winter (juartei's too well 
 ])leas(Ml to escape to care much for a handful of sha\"in,us, 
 an old coal-bai;;, or a washinu' tub."" 
 
 On the headstones of \\\o tlu'cf ui'ax'i^s I'estinti' in that bleak 
 and desolate shore were the h)llowinii; inscriptions: — 
 
 Sacr(Ml 
 
 to the 
 
 Alemoi'N' 
 
 AV. Ihaine, \l. M. 
 
 il. M. S. l-jvbus. 
 
 Died April ;ird. bSKl, 
 
 .\!i:e(l '.V2 ycai's. 
 
 ''('hoose ye this d;ty whom ye will s(i-v(\" 
 
 Joshua, ch. .\\1\'. i:..
 
 LIEUTEXANT OsBOlLY IV] 
 
 Sacrod to the AIcMuory of 
 
 John Hurtwoll, A. B. of li. AI. S. 
 
 Erel)iis, 
 
 Ased 28 years. 
 
 "Thus saith tlie Lord, consider your ways." 
 
 Ha,<i-i2,'ai, I. 7. 
 
 Sacred 
 
 to 
 
 The ^Memory 
 
 of 
 
 John Torrino'ton, 
 
 "Who d(>])arted this hfe, 
 
 January 1st, A.D.. 1S46, 
 
 On board of 
 
 H. AI.'s Shi]) Tei'ror, 
 
 Agetl 20 years. 
 
 Xo other written record was found The lost exiKMhtion 
 had seeniin,ui>' folded its tents, in the niyst(M'ious ^looni of the 
 Arctic niiiht, and silently cr(>j)t ;iwa\'. 
 
 Now, just as the searchei's had struck the trail, and wove 
 liot u])()n tlie sc(ait, the icy clutch of the lon.ii: winter arrested 
 their endeavoui's. ini])eri()usly d(>nianded (>!' them ])ati(aice. 
 coura.ii'e, endui'aiice, and (>nf()rc(>d upon thciu the weai'iness 
 of months of waitin.U'. 'Iduis th(> sciuadi'on took u]) wiiUer 
 (juartca's at the southern extremity of ( 'oi'iiwahis hand; 
 the (ii'innell ('X])edilion. followin,*;' its inst ruct ion, made an 
 attemi)t to riturn hom.e, hut was soon shut up in \\'('llin^ton 
 Channel, whei'c tlu^ Adrajicc and JiCscm drifted backward 
 and forward at tlu^ nuM'cy of the ice. Of their attem])t:- to 
 escape bcinsj; ice-bovuid for the wintta'. Dr. Kane draw.- a 
 lively picture.
 
 11 
 
 THE GllKAT MUITK XOIIJII 
 
 "Tlic na\'i,iiati()U is (•(■rtaiuly cxcitinii. I havo novcr .-ccri 
 a (Ic-ci iptiou ill in\' Ai'ctic readings (jf anytliiii^n; like tlii-. 
 WV ai'c lit('i'all\' niiiniiiu' lor oui' lives, surrounded l)y the iui- 
 miiieiit hazard- of -uildi'U eou-oliihit i(jU in an (j])en >ea. AM 
 minor })eri!>, nip-, iiunip-. and -unken l)er^- ai'e di-earde(l ; 
 A\'e are sta.iiu'erinu' alonu' under ah >aih f(jrein^ ouj' way v/hile 
 we can. i )ne tliu.nii). I'i'ecix-cd since I conini(-nce(l writinti'. 
 jerlvcd tiie nnie-ke('per from our hinnacle ilown tlie caliin 
 lialcji. and. lull for our .-li'onu,' liows. -e\'cn and a lialf -ohd 
 feet, would !ia\'r .-1o\'e u- in. Anolher lime, wc cleared, a 
 tonu'ue of 1 he main jack hy ridiicz it down at ei'i'ht knots." 
 
 ■A\'e Wel'e o'i iliLi,! •■ !. " !:(■ Ciintinue-. "-eV-ei'al tilut- ihe \lr\X 
 
 day to tiorr throtiyli liu- \'ounii' ici' : f(jr the low lem'perature 
 conlimird. and oiu' wIim! lulied undicr raj)e lioihain. The 
 iullIi! !i:ave li- now throe horns of c<i!m)l(-te darkne--. It w;is 
 dan'ier to run on. yet ecpjally daiiii'er to pau-e. ( Irim water 
 A\"a- foilowinij.' c!o-c upon oiU' heel-; and e\-en the ('aljlain. 
 .-aiiLiuini' all 1 l'i-;irle-- in emcri^eucy as he always ])ro\'rd him- 
 self, a- ho -aw tlio t''na.cioU- hold- of ^lud.U'e alldi jjallcake 
 ihirkotiiiiti' aroiindi u-, ]M';;-;in to fcf-1 aiixiou-. ^^line wa- a 
 juiiA!.' I ,\ -!-n-ation-, I had i:e(-n ije-irou- to the la-t deii'ree 
 t!;at Wf miuht niiuiin on liio fieM of -carch, and could hafiily 
 h- -.oi-lii-d. at what ])r<imi-i'(! to rca!i/r my wi-h. '\ el 1 
 had ImOi d tliat OU!' willt i 'rilUi' Would lie Hear our liimli-li 
 frii'ici-. tlic' in ca-'- <if ti'i.uMo or di-'-a-i' wi- miuht mutually 
 -U-i a':: ''a''!; o1 h<r. 1 hit the intcr\"al of hl't y liiilo 1 let Woeii u-. 
 in th('-i- iiiho -! u! ahli' iii-i-r!-, wa- a- complote a -eparatiou 
 
 It : and I roiay- t 
 
 at till- dark 
 
 i^'-'ao' ai'iiuiir! j-'ariow Inld. tli'' i)ri-on I'rMm wliirh 
 i';;--''': .■ - on tin' -•\-oiith. ju-t <ix da\'< hclnria with 
 
 .mho a- ■'[.' hmd-"ape it-elf. 'I"!:,- ^(.iind of oUl' 
 
 uni'':h;'.r hi'l' W:i}- liil'oULlh tin' ICW ]rc i- not ('a-\' to 
 
 It \\,a- n-it iiko tho m'iiclin'' 111' thi- old lornird ii'e,
 
 ALBERT LAXr) 115 
 
 nor was it the slusliy sfrapinji of sludge. We may all of us 
 rciiienibcr in the skatin,t;' frolics of early (lays, the ])eculiar 
 reverhcratiup; outei'y of a ])el)l)l(\, as we tossed it from us alori<i; 
 the ('(Ijics of an (jld mill-dam, and heard it dyin<i' away in (H'lioes 
 almor-t mu.-ical. Imagine sueh a tone as tliis, combinefl with 
 the whir of rai)id motion, and the rasping noise of close-grained 
 sugar. I was listening to the sotnid in my little den, after a 
 soi'rowful day, close iipim zero, trying to v\'arm up my stif- 
 fened liiiihs. l^res(nitly it grew less, then increased, then 
 st(^])])C(l. tiien went on again, 1)Ut jerking and irrt^gular, and 
 then il wane(l. and waned, and waned away to silence. 
 
 "Down came the ca])tain : 'J)(jctor, the ice has caught us ; 
 wc are frozen u]).' '' 
 
 In descrihing the discovery of new territory, Dr. Kano 
 says : — 
 
 "On the 22d 'S(>pteml)er, ISoOj, otu" latitude was To^ 
 21' 21". I now saw land to tlie nortli and v\"est ; its horizon 
 that of rolling gi'ound, without hluffs, terminating at its 
 nnrthcni end. Still furtlier on to the n(jrth came a strip 
 vrithout \-i<il)le landi, and then land again with UKjuntain tops 
 distant jiud 'rising above the cloudis.' This last was the 
 land which receiveil from ('a])1ain De Haven tlie name of 
 Mv. ( iriina'll." 
 
 The following year flS.")l) this same lanal was seen Ijy 
 ("ai)tain Penn\', and named 1)\' him Albert Land. The 
 Amci'icans naturally su])]io<('(l tiiat when it was made krjown 
 that this land, liad fiecn di>c()vei'(^d by Dr- Haven altout eight 
 months b<-f(.)re it wa> reaclicd by ('a]")tain Penny, the name 
 "Albei't'" would be dro])])ed. and that of "(ii-innell"" sub>ti- 
 tuted. Tills, however, wa> not done. A. .-trangX', and ce!'- 
 taiiily nol \'ery honouraJ'le. leelinsj,' of jealou<>' .-ei-Dis to ha\'e 
 induce(l the Admii'alt)' and (leoiiTaphical Society lo -hiit llieir 
 ey( - to the fact that the di-co\-i'r,s- of the land va- due lo ti;" 
 American^. Thi.- famou< con.; ro\'i'!'-\- re.-ulteii in bitter con-
 
 111! 
 
 THE (.UK AT ]VIIITK X OUT II 
 
 {l(-!iiiiuli()ii of the I'Ji^'lish authorities for inju>tic(' and ])ar- 
 
 liality. 
 
 l)Ut to rctui'ii to Dr. Kane's journal. On September 2;^, 
 
 lie pictures a fatal bi'cak-U]) of the ice : — 
 
 "How shall I describe to \'ou this ])ressure, its fearfulne>s 
 ami -ubliniity I Nothing I iiave <i'i:n or read of a])])roaches 
 it. The voices (jf the ice and the heavy swash of the over- 
 turneil hununock-table- are at this moment dimiin^- in my 
 ear-. 'All hand-" are on decjc fi_tihtin,Li,- our ,ti;rim eneniy. 
 
 " [■^)tu"teen inches of ^o!id ice thickness, with some half dozen 
 of >iiow, are, ^vi1h the -low unifortn ad\'an<'e of a miu-hty ])r()- 
 ])i'irm,u: pow<'!'. dri\'iirii' in upon our \'('>-el. A> they stril^e her, 
 the semi-])la>tic ma-> i> im])re>.-ed with a mould of her >ide, 
 and tlien, ur,ii'e(l on b\' the i'orcc behind, .-'iile- ui)ward, .and 
 riM's in Lireat \'ertical table-. A\'hen tluse attain thcii' utmo-t 
 height, <till ])fe<.-e(l on by others, they topjilc o\'ei'. and form 
 a ureal emljankmeiU of fallen tables. At the same lime, 
 other- ta!-;e a downward direction. :i:id when ])u<hed on, as 
 in the other c:i.-e, form a similar pile undernealh. The sid(^ 
 on whicji one or the odier of these actions take< ])jace for the 
 time \-a!'i<'s wit!; t!ie direction of the force, and the -treim'lh 
 of the op])o-ite oi- re-i-tin'j.' -ide. t!ie incHnat ion of the vessel, 
 and tiie weiu'ht of die -upei'ini'iunbent mound- ; and as t!ie-e 
 coiiilitio!!- t'ollow each other ill \-ai'yin,u' succe--ion. the \-e-.-cl 
 t)('eoni--- perfi'ctiy imbedded after a little while in crumblinii; 
 and frcei iiivil ice," 
 
 "\\<- are jii'ted bodily eiii'hteen inches out of watei"," con- 
 tinue- 1 )r. I\;iiie. •■ 'I'lie humnii icjs< are reared up aroimd the 
 .-lup. -M ;i- to n-e iti -ome ca-e- a couple of feet at>o\'e our bul- 
 W.'ifj-:- fi\'e f(M-t ;d>o\'e oui' deck. ddiey are \-ery often ten 
 
 and !\\-e|\i' iri-t \a's\\. All h;ind- are out. Inboi'iim' with ])ick- 
 
 aU'l e!-Mwb;il'- O, (i\-e|-t]irn the iVauiuent- t!i;i1 thl'C.aten to 
 
 (j\-er\>. !;ehii U-. A'ld tu I 'h i - 'i:irkne--. -now. co|i!, and the 
 ;i!i-ohite d'--; ;: .: i'.n ■■ <'. - u r:^ iUi idiiiu -hore-."
 
 />/•; flAVEX EXPKDiriOX 117 
 
 "October (i, Sunday. 12 AIi(hii<2;ht . They v(^]:)ort us 
 adrift. Wind, a gale from the northwai'd ami westward. 
 An odd cruise this ! The American exjx'dition last in a hunp 
 of ice al)t)ut as big as Washinjiton Sciuare, and (hiving, hke 
 a shanty on a raft, before a howhng gale. 
 
 "NovemlxM- 25. 
 
 ''Our da^yhght to-(hiy was a mere name, three and a half 
 hours of UK^agre twilight. 1 was struck for the first time with 
 the bleached fac(>s of my mess-matc^s. 
 
 "S(>v(aity-seven days more without a sunrise! twenty-six 
 l)efore we n^ach the solstitial ])oint of greatest darkness ! 
 
 ''December 22, Sunday. The solstice!- the midnight 
 of the year ! 
 
 "i)eceml)er 2;^, Monday. Perfect darknc^ss ! Drift un- 
 known. Winds nearly at rest with the exception of a littlt> 
 gasp fi'om the westward. 
 
 " Dectnnber 24, Tuesday. 'Through utter darkness 
 boi'n(\' 
 
 "December 2."). ' Y(> Christmas of ye Arctic cruisers !' 
 
 ''Our Christmas ])assed without a lack of the good things 
 of this life. 'C<oo(li(^s' we had galore ; ])ut that best of earth.ly 
 blessings, the conununion of IovcmI syni])athies, these Arctic 
 cruisers luul not. it was curious to observe the de])ressing 
 influences of (>ach man's home thoughts, and absolutely sad- 
 dening the effort of each man to imi)os(^ uix)n his neighbor 
 and b(> v(>ry boon and jolly. A\'e joked inct^ssantly, but 1)adly, 
 too ; ate of good things, and draidv u]) a moiet^' of our ITeid- 
 sieck ; and tluai we sang negro songs, wanting only time, 
 ni(>asui'e, and harmon\', but abounding,- in noise ; and after a 
 closing l)um])(a- to .Mr. (b'in.nell, adjourned with creditab/le 
 jollity from tal)le to the tlunitre." 
 
 "X(>ver," writes Dr. Kane, "had I enjoyed {\\o tawdry 
 riuackery of the stage half so nuicli. 
 
 "The 'Blue D(^vils' : Cod bless us! but it was very, very
 
 1 
 
 ////; irin-JA'j' Willi K yoiLiii 
 
 t'unuy. Xoiic l-:nf'\v lh('ir pai'i-. ami lhc ])rimi!)t'T cijuM not 
 I'fa'l uiiljiv (-noiiii.!! to (lo iii- Dlticc. K\'('i'ytliiiiu'. wtu'lhcr 
 ji)cu>('. oi- jiKP.uiiaiit. or (•()tiiiii()ii])!acf. or ])atli(-Tic. \va- (l('li\-- 
 crcil in a iiiuii-l racicdy moudlonc of (ic>])aii' : live woiii> at a 
 time, or iiiorf or lo--, accorilinii to tl.o I'aciiitics of llio ])roiniJl- 
 in.ii'. Mc.U'rini, with a pair of >cal-.-kiu lioots. hc.-towcd \i\^ 
 ^'liil upon tlic urntl'' AniK'tlc : ainl Aunctlc nearly -ix f'(-t 
 hiuii, rocci\'(Ml it with nia-t oilotiic .tii'acc Annette was an 
 Iri-iinian nanieii DaJy. alio I iiii'ilil ilefy Imnian I'l-inu' to hear 
 her, wlnle halaneeii on t!ie lu-el of her lioot. exclainn in I'icli 
 lisa-i-ulnie hrouue. 'ncii. feat'iei'.' witiiout roarinii,: 
 
 "After till- followcil 7'Ae Slar Spn/njh'l linniKr: tlien a 
 ciiniplicai'-il Mar-('illai-e i jy onr l-r^neii cndl^. Henri ; t!i(-n a 
 
 -aiii)!'':- lii)rni)il)e hy the (li-.-r.r-ely tahiOehl Hl'Uce ; \\i(' orcjic^- 
 t i'a. - S:ew;trt I'layiiiLi' out the inte!'\-al- on the Jew",— harp 
 fri)!n tiie !()i) of a lar^ l-ca>i<. In fact, we were \-cry iia])py 
 fcHdW-. Wo liai! had a foot I'aee in the inorniiiLi.' o\'er the 
 mi' hiiii'lit ico fof three ])ur-e< oi' a ilannfj -liirt eacii. and a 
 .-piheinu iif tl.c main lirace. Tlic day wa.- niii'hl. the >tar.- 
 -hi'iiiiLi: fcehly tli!'oinrJi tiie mi-t . 
 
 ■• I )ecen,i.<T 2^. Satnrdaw 
 
 "id'nm my \-ery -mu! dj i 1 reioic(> at th.e cominLi' -uin ]-i\'i- 
 deiii--- 11,,; !m ].<■ nii-ial-:en i'on\-inec me that tiie healtii of onr 
 i-yt-w. n'\er r(-dnu' uonn a \"er>" -oninl ha-i-. mn-t sink umlci- 
 
 tui-e ::]\,\ ;',,;■ j I m -- ol' air in ii:e h> m weei i-deck Tarla.m-. (•••mniit 
 \" ai' '■!;,l,.,h (it hci'\'/!-.i' ii wiiiild iir niy dnty to nme a rhan:^e. 
 
 Pi' •!■■,•,... I, the -Mlnln' of hilMO-. the ^\v\ lieat ol' -to'ee-, alld I '' : " 
 
 i'n:;,' - nf tie -alley, all >>' 'hem nnhii ermit t im:. what w.indei- 
 
 lh;!i We n.CeW feehle. T.e,. -hoTt fa ee of ('hl'l-Illla- |)ay 
 
 ';■ ■ .■■'o-d no all I >nr , ,jhe-i'- e\ef pi ( i •■life] I. It pained me to 
 -'■e niy h''"';d l.ii\-eh. (I'ir -triim:e-t man. faintimr with the 
 
 ev.;-; ;: .•!. 'i ' '■ -yi.ee , I'l,- ,,■' ^r\wyy :>\\n^\'S. the e!',.\\- niv .,;jil 
 !iaTea-!t!U'. and HiMre i:eiie:\i|. j-'aee- are m-(.)wiim ])ale : and
 
 /;/•; IIAVKX EXPEDITION 
 
 119 
 
 an in(l()lene(> akin to apathy soonis to l)c' ciHH'ijin.^- over us. 
 I long for the hght. Dear, clear sun, no wonder you are 
 worshi|)])e(l !" 
 
 It may l)e inui<i;ined with w^hat rejoicin<j;s they welcomed 
 the glowin,!;- disk when on February 18 they fii'st beheld it. 
 Three ehec-rs went up, and Kan(^ himself fired a salute. 
 Though the dawn inrrc-ased, the cold twilight still C(jiitinued, 
 and the i)ei'ils of their situation were e\-er pi'escnl. Many 
 times the conditions of the ice thi'eat(>ne(l theii' desti'uction, 
 l)Ut n(>l until June o did its a])])alling disi'uption fre(^ them. 
 In twenty minutes the ice, as far as the eye c(.)uld reach, was 
 a vast field of moving Hoes. Five days later tliey emerg(Ml 
 into the o])en water and mad(> foi- C.icjdhaven (Jii the coast of 
 Cireenland. 
 
 Here th(>y underwent repairs, and, undaunted by the recent 
 pei'ils, again turnc^l theii' pi'ows to the noi'tln Skirting tlie 
 coast of (ire(Miland as far ;is the ~?A degree, they sailed to the 
 wcstwai'd and sjjoke •<\n J'aighs!i wlialing slii]) near the Dutch 
 Idand about the 7th and Sth of July. l\v the 11th 1 hey wei'e 
 l^usliing thcii- wa>' tln'ough tlie accunnikiTions of ice in l-Jufhu 
 I>ay. and her(> the gallant little Princt AVk it, on lier way back 
 to join the s(>a!"ching s(juadi'on, continued in their company 
 until the ."Id of August, when she hove oif to the wc'slward 
 to try a more soutliern ])a-sage. 
 
 Pushing bi'avely agaiiist th.e odds of imjx'uet ral)le ic(^ 
 barriers: bloel^ed at (n-ery marieeu^'re to forc(> a ]iassage : 
 nine more month- of wintei' threatening the enfeebled ci'ew; 
 the bra\'e !)e IIa\'en detertnined to gi\'e u]) the imecjual l)attle, 
 and Di'. Kane makes this entry : — 
 
 " -vugust b), Tuesday : 
 
 '' Ri--<cii( is clo>e ,a<tern (>f us ; sh.e got thi'inigh .about noon 
 yestei'ilay. i^ur connnodoi'c has rc^solved on an immediat(^ 
 return to the United States."
 
 CHAPTER \'III 
 
 Search for Sir John I'l'iuikl'm (■(inli)iiic(l. — Skvlso journey of Captain 
 Austin's s(|ua(h'on. — Ji(iui-n oi Prince Albert under conunand of 
 Captain Kennedy. — ]5ellol. 
 
 The I)i'ilish scarcliini;- sciuadron, inchidinj^ the Rcsohite, 
 the Assislaiicr, the Pioneer, and tlic Intrepid, wlilk' \viiit(M"iii,<2; 
 in the vicinity of ( 'oi'iiwaUis Ishmd and(!rif[ith Ishind, had 
 held fre(|\ient conuuunicat ion and ])laini(Ml for ('X])l()ration 
 joui-neys on sled_ii;es to l)e undertaken as early as ])()ssil)Ie the 
 followiiiLi,- s|)i'in<i;. I'ld'ore the winter hectune too se\-ero, 
 depots of provisions ^\'ero establisluMl to he used by the sledju;- 
 in.ii pai'ties, and tlie men trained in sl(Ml,<>,'e (h-a,ii'iiin,<i' and walk- 
 iii.ii exercises that they niijiht l)e in <i,()od ])hysical condition 
 when the time for a test of endurance should arrive. Cnder 
 the direction of ("a])tain Austin, detailed ])lans were foi'med 
 foi' carei'ul exploi'uliou of i>lan(ls and lands alonj^; Parry 
 Strait. 'I'o ('aptain Penny was entrusted the thorou,i>;h 
 search of \\'ellin,<;toii ( 'hamnd. 
 
 .\s eai-l>' as the Pith of April, PS.")!, the ])arties intende(l for 
 the westwai'd explorations, numheriu^ii; one hundi'ed and four 
 men. procee(led under the conuuand of ('aptain ()nnnaney 
 to the noi'thwest end of (Iridith Island, and there the entire 
 encampment was closely insp(>cted by ('a])tain Au>tin. 
 
 Th( ext I'aordinary recoi'ds of the six ''extendiMl'" parties, 
 tho-euilh in<truclions to ^o the farthest ])()ssil)le distance, 
 wii'e a- loHow- : I'ii'-t, the sle(|ov Udiitnei. imdei' ('aptain 
 *)mmaney. ti'a\-elled on south shore, was absent sixty <lays, 
 and ei)\i!-(M| four hundr<Ml andeiulity miles, t wo hundr(Ml and 
 fi\f ol which- \\a- pre\ ionsly unknown coa>t. Second, the 
 -Iciiuv 'I'riK Phil, under i/ieiilenaid ()sborn, t i'a\'elled (jii t h(> 
 
 120
 
 
 'i--' '?^^^: 
 
 . ^c dy^i^
 
 SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRASKLIX 3 21 
 
 so\ith shore, was ul)s('nt fifty-eight (lays, covered five hun(b'(>(l 
 ;i.iul six miles, ami discovered seventy miles of coast. The 
 third sledge, Enterprise, under Lieutenant Brown, travellcMl on 
 south shore, was absent forty-four days, and covered three 
 hundred and seventy-five miles, including one hundred and 
 fifty of i^reviously vmknown coast. The True Blue, making 
 the most western point reached 103° 2.V west longitud(\, a 
 point about halfway b(dween Leopold L<land and Point 
 Turnagain on the American continent. 
 
 Of the three parties designed for the search of the north 
 sh()r(\, the fii'st sledg(\, Lady Franlditt, under command of 
 Lieutenant Aldi'icli, was absent sixty-two days, (-(jvered fiv(> 
 hundi-e<l and fifty miles, and discovered >eventy mih's of 
 coast. Tli(> second sledge, Pers( n rcnee, under Lieutenant 
 ALC'lintock, was al)sent eighty days, and covered seven 
 hundred and sixt}' miles, forty mil(>s of wliich was ])r(>viousl}' 
 undi>cover(>d Ct^ast. The third <le(lg(\ RcsnJuJe, under Sur- 
 geon Bradford, was absent eighty da\'s, and covered six 
 hundrcMJ and sixty-nin(^ miles, and discovered one hundred 
 and thill y-fl\-(^ miles of coast. 
 
 To Lieuteriaut ALC'lintock was due the honour of reaching 
 the farthest we>t, 74^ 3S' north latitud(>, and 114'' 20' W(\st 
 longitude. < )n this journey MTlintock reache(l Bushman 
 C'o\'i'. IVIelville Island, \vhere l^irry had encam])ed .hme 
 11, 1S20. Trac(v- of his st;iy were found by [M'C "lintock and 
 later, U]X)n crossing to ^\'inter Harbor, on a large stone 
 boulder he found the following inscription: — 
 
 Ills I'ritaimlc Majesty's 
 
 Ships Ilecla and ( iriper, 
 
 ( 'oiumandeil by 
 
 W. C. Parry and Mr. Liddon, 
 
 Wintered ill the adjacent 
 
 Harbor IS 19 20. 
 
 A. Ti-her. Scul])t.
 
 ^■1-1 
 
 THE CHEAT WllEI'E yOETII 
 
 It AV;is (-viili'iit tli;ti im man \\vA vi>ilc<l the >])0l .-incc that 
 eaji\' <ial(', and a hare was louud ncaa' th<_' rcx'k so tame tliat 
 she would ulnio>t allow tlic iiK'U t(j ttjUfu licr. 3»r('liiitock 
 added the fi,iiUi'e- iNol to the iii-eri]jtiou and prepared to 
 return to tlic .-hip.-, wliich he j'caclicd .July 4. 
 
 Tlic i)arti('< (jruaiiize.I lor the ])ur])(j-c of de]")o>ithi^' pro- 
 \-i-ion.-, .-etliiiL!: u]) mark.-, and makhiy,' oh>('rvatioii.-. AV(']'e 
 ahsciit fi'(jm the -hip< duriii,u; ])"!'iod- <jf frijm tweh'e to 
 thirty-four d.ays. Stramr*' as it ma\' .-ecm, they uiiderw(-ii1 
 _U'r(-ater hard.-jiij) and -uffered nioi'i' than the "extended 
 partie-/" v\'ihch i'clurni''l in excelh-nt eoMiditiim, whereas 
 jio ](■-- tliau twcnty-ci^ht ni'Mi were fro-t-hitf-n, and^ one 
 died frtjm exhau-lion, oi tho.-e .-hariiui; thi' shorter excur- 
 sioir-. 
 
 Tlie -ix ]):u'tii'- de,-i'j,-tiaied for the expltjralion of W'cllinu- 
 t(jn ( 'hannf-l were und.iT the command in ^'a])i::in ."-^luari, 
 AFf-^rs. Mar-liah. .}. Slcwart, and Ih-id, and Surii:''ons Smhcr- 
 land and ( iood^-ir. 
 
 I'rom t!i(- out^el, A|)ril 17. i'ncy encouiH ''I'l'd di.-au'rceatilc 
 wcalln'r. whicii cnn.-iilfraiily dfjaycd di"ir ])ro2ro--. How- 
 vvt'V. ('jijjiain Penny, wlio lia<l u'cncral .-upci'x-i-ii m. wa- for- 
 1un:it'' (Houuh 1o di.-co\'rr "a ^A'ile w('-t '.x'ard -trail of open 
 wai'T. lyinu, ;donu' ihc forllna >idc oi the l;!nd- wiiidi fiank 
 l'.:iri'ow'- S'ra.il and i'arr\-'- Strait." l-iniiaiiin- tiic ice !anc< 
 wiha a lioal. lie pi la-l rated up *)ueeii',- C'iiannel a- lai' a- 
 
 ]i::rinu' I-!a!ld. an'! < 'ape iJeecher. !')eimi,' ahie \n liroei-f-il no 
 
 fi!r!!,er, l;c T'-lnrned to the -hip<. At thi- point "a tine open 
 -'■;! -I i'l ; :-!i"d inehiii'ily away to lli" iiortl!. ' -ut hi- iVaLriJe 
 
 Imi,:' \'-;.^ in-e( |'ii> ,'.,., ; j,,!' a X'oyai^e ol' ' ' ! -(■o\-e|'y . {-"nlly pep- 
 
 -n:'d'"l !h;e Id'.inid'n lim-i \\:-yf iMJIowed t'h- roii;.'. }m- i';ii!ed, 
 d' i\\-.'-'-r. in e( i!e.-iia''ie^ t'ap'Mni .\u-iin oi li.e trndi ol lii- 
 the^,ry, ai,M ;i-. \>'id:()M; I'la' o'lln-r"- co, u )er;i t ;( ,t i . nollanLi: 
 
 }ie:ii;,d oUi hy t!,e Ad:ii!r:ilty >puadron, wlhej;, alter two
 
 SKAlK U FO'U Sin JOHN FIL\.\KLIX Vlo 
 
 ini'*'tVcin;il ;iU<M!i])ts to enter Smith and ,]on(\s sounds, rc^- 
 turned to Kn.iiland." 
 
 An unlikely tale told t(.) old Sir .Jolni Ivoss by the I'^skinios 
 neai' ("ape \'oi'k, to {\\v eft'ect that in the wiiilca' of 1810 two 
 s!iii)s were wreck(Ml in the ic(^ oil' Cape Dudley l)i,a;s;X^s and 
 ;ifterwards ransacked and burned by the natives, and the crew 
 massacred, determined Sii' John to in\-esti<i;ate tlu^ slor\' as 
 closely as ])(>s>iblc and then I'etuiTi in tlu^ Felix to l''n,<i'iand. 
 Ivv'en ;U'tei' his I'etui'u h{)m(\ he s(>enis to have Ixm'u firm in the 
 belief that Sir .John b'rankiin and the crt'W of the Ercbu-s and 
 Terror ])ei'ishtMl in l)alfin ]^)ay. 
 
 Havitiii; made a clos(> ins])ection oi this ba}' before his re- 
 turn, he describes th.e rc'sults (jf his search as follows : "Mariy 
 im])()rtant coi'rect ioie; and \-;duable additions Vv'cre made to 
 the charts of the nuich fi'e(|U(m{ed eastern side of BalHn l^ay, 
 whicli has been more (•lo>ely obsei'ved and navi,t;;Uedi l)y this 
 than ai;y formci' ex])e(liiion : and, nuah to nay satisfaction, 
 co'ifirminti,' the kiiiiuj^'e and lonuilude of e\-ery headland I 
 had tlie oi)])oi'tUiUty oi' iayina; down in the yeai' ISb"-'." 
 
 We turn no\'.' to conliinie the stoi-y of anotlici' expedilion. 
 
 I'he little I'riiirr A inert, v.'hicti s]~)()!~.e the Advartce an.d 
 lusem ii! iKilhn I'ny, .luiy \'2, bS.ll, on her return triji to 
 northern >\'atcrs. hail lu en most car(>ful!y o\-!rhaul(Ml and 
 refit t(Ml for iiei' :irduous ('nteria'i-e. ilei' commandei" was 
 ('ai)tain Kemicdy, aial ,-ec(>:id, in conuiaiud was i.ieutiaiant ,!. 
 I^>ellor, a >'ounu' I'reiu'li oflictM' noted h)r his ad\"(>nt urous 
 si'lrit and chai'uiin.ti' jx-i'sonality, wh.o h.ad volunbM'red his 
 sei'\ices. Amoriu' tlie crew, all of whom wei'c ])ick(nl mc'U, 
 was John H;'])b-nrn, whi) had accom]nuiie(l Sii- John !'"!'ank!in 
 on thaa first laiul exjfediiion A\'hich ca.me near proxuna,' fatatl 
 to the eniire ])art\'. Another of the nuai had accom'pariied 
 Dr. l{ae on hi- fii->t jounuy to l\epulse p.a\'. and a tliii'd liad 
 accom]);in!eil Sii' John iricha!-dson in his ixjat journex' throui^h 
 the interior of Anua'ica.
 
 Vl\ 
 
 TLIK CllKAT WHITE yOUTIl 
 
 l)iscou!';ii;in,L!; conditions of ic(^ and wc^atlicv mot the gal- 
 lant crew in I'rincc lic'gcnt Inlet. r'lou<2;hin<i; a way thi'ou<2;h 
 a tortuous course, the Prince Albert succ('C(lin<>; in rcachin,!;; 
 l^hvin Bay only to find it icc-l)ound and iini)assal)l('. I)atly 
 I^a\' and I'^ury Px'ach \vcr(> also iini)Ossil)lc (jf access, and iuav 
 the condition of the ice hecominj;' so alarniinji', they j;-a\'e u]) 
 an attempt at the west side of the inlet and made a liast}' 
 ]-etreat to Port l>owen. whei'c ti'ac(\s of Sir Edward Pai'i'y's 
 ])a!l\', which winter((l thei'e in 1<S2."'), were still discernible. 
 
 To a\'oid wint(-rin,ti' at so gi'cat a distance from the sceiK^ 
 of the e.\i)lora1 ions planned for the followinii s])rin<2,', they re- 
 ci'ossed the strait and ai)i)roache(l the sh()i'(> h)r the ])m'])os(> 
 of makinii,' a landinj;'. ("a])tain Keimedy, acc()m])anie(l by 
 inur n\' the crew, cast oil in a j.iutta-])ercha boat and made for 
 th(> beach. r])on landin<i'. ('a])tain Kennedy ascended the 
 cliffs of ('ape Sep])in,u's, and deci'iefl Port Leoj)old fre(> fi'om 
 ice. Ilopin^a,' to put the Prince Alherl in this sai'e harboui', lie 
 at once made an attem])t t(j r(\ioin h.is shij), ])ut, U])on I'cach- 
 iii'i,- lh(- shoi'c, found to his consternation that, owin<i; to the 
 suddc'U mo\-in.t;' of tlie ice-pack, he could not I'cjoin her and 
 that >he was beina; merrily cai'ried down-sti'cam in s])ite of 
 e\-ei'y elfoi't of the men on boai'd to stop her pro,ui'(>ss. Idie 
 shadows of iiiuht came u])on them rapidly, and the t(Mn))es- 
 tuou- roai'iii.L';. ^rindinu', and tossinu,' of the ice was all that 
 could be >i'<'\\ or he;ird. 
 
 A mo-1 unromi'oi't able niji,-ht followecl theii' uiihick}' ad- 
 \'i iiliu'e. Their boat was the only ax'ailahile sh(>iler, and this 
 >er\'cil foi' ;i eo\-erim!,- under which one man ;d a t me took an 
 hour'- iiiicomiort able I'cst . wh le the others exei'cised to keej) 
 liieir liiidie- I rom freezing', 'i'he next moi'niiiii: at dawn, ui)on 
 UKiniibmL!, the (Tiffs onci' moi'c, their alarm wa> increased 
 by the iii(-laii(Toly fact that the -hip had completely dis- 
 appcai'i'il fi'oiM \'iew. 
 
 Xo more forloi'ii ca-tawax's can be inamlued. "Idie onlv
 
 nETCHN OF THE PIUSCE ALBKlir 12.") 
 
 initij;;itiu,a; cifcutiistaiicc in their sorry couditioii was the 
 ku()\vk'(l<i(> that on the other side of the harl)our at Whaler 
 Point, Sir Jam(^s l^oss had h^ft a deposit of provisions about 
 iwo years before. To tliis ])()int tlieir stejis were now (Hreeted, 
 and ui)on rt^aching tlie depot their hopes revived somewhat 
 wh(ni th(>y found tlie condition of th(> provisions exec^llent. 
 The liouse left by Sir James Ross was in fair condition, the 
 fla,u; and record were easily found, and, resiajncnl to their fat(>, 
 Kinmedy and his companions detcMiniruxl to face tlie ])ossibil- 
 it}' of passing the long Arctic winter with tlie best possible 
 grac(\ 
 
 "It was now," says Kemiedy, "the lOth of Se]^t(Mnb(M'. 
 AMnter was evid(Mitly fast s(4ting in, and, from the distance 
 the shi]) had been cai'ried dvu'ing that disastrous night, — ■ 
 whetlicr out to s(\i or down the inlet we could not conjecture, 
 — there was no hope of our l)eing able to r(\ioin lier, at l(>ast 
 during (he ])reseiit season. Ther(> remained, th(M'efoi'(\ no 
 alternative^ but to make u]) our minds to ])ass the winter, if 
 necessary, whei'c we W(M'(\ The first objiH't to be attended to 
 was the er(M'ting of some sort of sludter against tlu^ dail>' in- 
 creasiug inclemency of tli(> weatlu'i': and foi' this ])ur])ose, 
 the launch, left !)y Sii' James Ro^s. was selected. TI(>r main 
 mast Vv'as hud on su])])orts at the bow tmd stei-u, tibout nine 
 f(M'i in height, and by s])i-(\iding two of luM' sails o\-er this a 
 vci'v toliu-able roo was obtaincnl. A stove was set up in tlie 
 i)()dy of the boat, with the ])i])('s running througli tlu^ roof; 
 and we w(n"(^ soon sitting by a coinfortabl(> fii'e, which, after 
 oui' long exposure to the wet and cold, we stood wry mua'h in. 
 need of." 
 
 It w:is the iuteutiou of ('a])t;iiu Keun(uly to make sl(-dge 
 journexs to distant ])oints in tlie ho])e of sighting tlu^ Pi'iiu'c^ 
 Alhfii or discovering t!';ices of th(> Knhns and Tirmr, - but 
 ])ef(;i'e the necessai'v ])i-e]):U';itious were com])lete(l, some fi\-e 
 weeks after their seoaration from the shii), a .-hot eclioed
 
 I2i; 
 
 rJIK CRKAT WHITE NOHTIf 
 
 thi'ouiih tlic slilliicss. ;ui(l Licutctuiiit IJcllot niid seven of 
 the crew of I lie i'rina AUxrl (viiue lo theii' ri'^cue. After 
 two i)i'(>\-ioiis jiltempts to liiid their loii<;-l()st coinnules, 
 the\- h:ul s;iecee(l(>(l in (li'a,u,!i,iii.ii; the jolly-!)o;it ;ill tiie way 
 IVom I^atty l')ay. whn-e the I'rincc Al'in li was seeui'elx' inooi'ed. 
 Of this hapjjy reunion, ('a])ta!n Kennedy writes; — 
 
 "11 can liai'dl;\' oe a inatt('i' of suipi'ise that the reaction in 
 the state of our feelint;'s, eonse(|uent upon this unex))e('led 
 UKM'tin.i!,' with our h)n,'i'-lost friends, shouhl ha\-e been sti'ikin,^; 
 ;ind iininedi:iie, and in dircH't proportion to our h)r!ner sohci- 
 tude and dejection. 
 
 "!t \v;is l)Ul fi\'e weeks '!iy the chime' since our (hsas- 
 ti'ous sepai'jilion from the Prince Alhcii: but th(\v were liv(> 
 i/uirs of (h'ea!'y anxiety and, de<!)ondency fa-^t niera,inii' into 
 somet hiiiii' hike desi)air. We had a jo\'iai ex'eninii', \c\ the 
 readei' he \vr\\ assured, in our little launch tliat 17th of ( )c- 
 toher, and a jo\'ial housewai'ininu. out of ilei' .AIaje.->1y"s 
 stoi'es at Port Leopold, enjoyed nolle the les~^ from the ab- 
 sence of an>' ui'im \'ision of a loiu;; recl^oniiiii' to dischar^'e with 
 'miiH> host" on the inoi'row. .\nd. w' kept it lU). too, let, 
 me tell you, wit h Io!;'j: yai'us ,;!' our ad,\-e!it ur(>s. and I'omdi old 
 sea son.sis : and in hriimnimi' cup> of f;i,m()i;,-> chocol;ile, ' clieer- 
 iim' hut no! iiiel)i'i;itiim-." dr.mk most loyiiily ';il Ilcr M;ij- 
 e.-t\-'s expen-i'i a !iapt»y ni'M'tini'; with II. M.S. Ivrihiis and 
 T< rrar. and their gallant crews. 
 
 "ll w;i- some days attci' t!;i:- before our preparation^ foi' 
 r(-t urnini!,- to i he -!iip were (■omp!";ei!. At he-l . on W'eihie,^- 
 day. the -I'Jd, exaeily six weei<^ ;i!'ter our fii'st deieution ;it 
 \\ !i;:ler i'oiiil . we -i-t out ; aft er dejxisit iiiu' a p;ipei' in t he cyl- 
 iiider, colli .•limic.', in iorni;! ! loM oi' our proceed niU'- U]) to thi- 
 d.'.l". and i)!;!;ii!Li' ;i|l i he loe-" -ioi'e^ in pioj)er order and 
 :'eciirliy ior iIm' u-e oi' ;n!\- p;:rty thai should eome ;iftei' 
 
 U-. 
 
 "<)ni' proxi-ioii - :,nii '!r,ee* o! all kind- were .-toweil on a
 
 BETUUN OF THE PlilNCE ALBKliT 127 
 
 siront;; sl(>ig;li, A nuist w;is tlien s(^t, uiul a sail hoisted in the 
 jolly-boat, and a\va>' we went before a .si)anlvin<i,' fair wind 
 ()\-ei- tlu> smooth ice (^f Leopold Harbor at a rat(> which 'all 
 the Kin<;''s hoi's(>s' e(juld hardi}' have b(>en ecjual to. We liad 
 not gone half across the ba}', however, before our sleigh, 
 wholly unused to this style of locomotion, broke down, and 
 it cost us tlie best |)art of the day, before we could repair our 
 damage and start afresh..'' 
 
 "In our endeavor to r(>ach Air. B(-lIot's encani]iment of 
 th(> IGth," c()ntiuu(\s AIi'. Kennedy, " \xc continued on foot 
 longer than we sliould isave done, and the consecjuence was, 
 that !)eing ov(>rtaken by night before looking for camping 
 gi'ound, we found ours(4ves, Ix^fore we wca'c aware or had 
 time t(^ I'eilect on the priMlicannent we had got iut(^, groping 
 about, in the darknc^ss, and with a heavy showe-r of snow 
 falling, for somc^ ])it of tca'i'a firma, (for we had been all day 
 U])on th(> ice), wher(^ v\T' could ])it('h the tent. We stumbled 
 ai la>1, after making oiu* shins mor(> freel}' ac(|uaint(Ml than 
 was allogetlier agr'Hvible \\'!th the sliaip (Mlges of th(~ broken 
 ice, into a hue sciu;u"(^ of chnir ])each, betwinai souk^ heavy 
 masses of stnindcHl ice. Choosing out the softt^st i)art of a 
 sheh-ing rodv of hiiieston{^ of whicii tlic l)eacli was comjV)sed, 
 we ])iicli(Ml liic tenl, sjircvid the oilcloth, and with some coals, 
 whicli w(^ liad bi'on.ght with us from Whaler Point, ])oiled a 
 good kettle of t(\i. for all luuids. 
 
 "AH tlu^se })reparations wei'e, howin'ei", but introductory 
 to another, wliicli we i'oundL a most diiUcult ])i'obl(Mn indecnl — 
 namc^ly, to contrive how wo v.'ere all 1(.) ipass the night in the 
 siiigle little tent we had brought with. us. We all got in, 
 C(M'tainl>', and got the ketth^ iii tlie mid(ll(> : but as foi' lying 
 down to AiH']) it was uttcM'ly out of i!ie rp.u-stion. A London 
 onuu])Us on ;i I'acitu;,' d:iy after hve o'clock, was tln^ only ])ar- 
 iu]o\ T could th'iu.iv of to our atTempt to slo^v thirteen men, 
 including our colosscd carj)enter, into a tent intended foi' .-^ix.
 
 VIS 
 
 THE GHEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 At last, after sonic <k'lil)('i'ati()n, it was arraii<ie(l tliat wo 
 should >it down six in a row. on each si<l('. which ^\•ould leave 
 li> aliout three feet clear to stretch our l(\us. Air. Bellot, 
 who formed the Thirteenth, licin^ii the nio>t t-oni]nict and st(jw- 
 ahle of the ])art\'. a^ireed to s(iueeze in underneath them, 
 stii)ulatimi onl\- h)r a clear foot s(juar(^ for his head alon,u'side 
 the tea-kettle. ]^ein<i unjjrovided with a candle>tick. even if 
 tluM'c had lieen rcjom to ])lace one an^'where, it was arran<^-ed 
 that each of us should liold the candle in his hand for a quarter 
 of an houiV and then ])ass it to his nei_uhl)or. and thus by the 
 aid of oui' flickerin,u' ta])er. throu,tih the thick st(>am of the 
 l)oirm,U' kettle, we had just enoti.uh li,uht to ])re\'ent us putting 
 our tea into our neighbor's mouth, instead of our own. 
 
 '''\\'ell. hoys." >uu-,iiests om' ever jo\'ial liist mate. n(Miry 
 And<'r.-on. 'udw we are fairl\' >eate(l. I'm thiidviuii, as we 
 can do nothin,<i' else, we had l»e.-t make a ni^uht of it auain. 
 AMiat say you to a son.U'. Dick'.'' Whereu])on. nothinji' loath, 
 Air. liichard Wehh strikes up. in the first st\ie of forecastle 
 execution, 'Su-annah. don't you cry foi' me.' which is, of 
 (•()ur>c, receiveil by tlie company with the utmo>t enthu-ia-m. 
 'Ml'. \\'ebb. yoiu' health and >ona\' and .ueiu-ral a])])lause, 
 and empt^'iiui of tea-cans, which Mr. John Smith, jjleadiim' 
 inability to -inti', undei'take- to reith'ui-l! for the mu'ht. 
 
 ■' ' Ii'\'iiie, my lad, ])a.-- the candle. ;ui'l i;i\'e u> t he " Tailor." ' 
 Air. Ir\'ine. you mu-t undei'.-tand. ,i:v:itle reader'. ha> dis- 
 1 in':.ui-!iei! him-el!' by -onie ext raorilinary ]")erfoi'mance< on 
 tlie bl;iMkei-b;iLi-. duriiii;: our late deieution at Wlialei' I'oiiu. 
 in x'irtue o!' whii'h he ha< been foi'mally installed 'Tailor of 
 tlie b.XpedilioM.' 
 
 "'The '|\'iilor' i- acc()fdiim'l\- u'ix-en. con nmnrr. and i< ;i re- 
 Tiiar]-:ablr. hi-ioi'y of kni'^'ht of the tliimble. who, biu'\'inu' his 
 
 Uoo-c, lil;e l'l'o-l)'i'o hi- bi)ok<. "be'.-Dii,'! the I'eneli of ])lum- 
 lip'l.' iiecoiiii- ;i 'Sailor bold.' and in iha! eapaeit\- e:i-la\-e-. 
 the heart ol' a !o\-c!\- l:d\' of incalculable wealtii. who. et c. etc.
 
 liEirUX OF THE PllIXCE ALBERT 129 
 
 \\c all know tho rest. 'Kenneth, you monster, take that 
 clumsy foot of yours off my stomach, will you ? ' cried out 
 poor Mr. 13ellot, smothered beneath the weight of four-and- 
 twenty legs, upon which the carpenter, in his eagerness to 
 comi)ly, jjrobably drives his foot into ^Ir. Bellot's eye. And 
 so, ])assing the song and the joke around, Air. Bellot, occa- 
 sionally making a sudden desperate effort to get up, and sit- 
 ting down again in despair, — witli a long 'blow' like a 
 grampus, we make what Anderson calls 'a night of it.' 
 Xo managinnent, however, can make our solitary candle 
 last beyond twelve^ o'clock, or tlun-ealjouts. Xotwithstand- 
 ing this extinguisher to the entertainuKHits of the evening, 
 ?\fr. Anderson, while som(> are dozing and hob-a-nob])ing in 
 their dreams, may still be heard kee])ing it up with im- 
 abated s])irit in the dark, wakening every slee])er now and 
 tlien with some tremendous chorus he has contrived to g(>t 
 u]) among his friends, for the 'Bay of Biscay,' or some favour- 
 ite (Ireenland melody, with its inspiriting burthen of 'Cheeri 
 lie, ah ! ch(M'ri-li(> !' " 
 
 A warm \velcom(> awaitiMJ the lost on{\>, when a few days 
 kiter th(\\' I'eaclu^l tlie shi]). 
 
 "With our rcnurn to the vessc^l," writers !Mr. KenncMJy, 
 '"may be s;iid to luu'c closed all our op(M-ations. as far as the 
 shi]) was concHM'iU'd, in the Arctic seas for tlu^ year 1S51. 
 There rcMuained now only to mak(> our arrangements for the 
 V(vsel i^assiiig the nc^xt six or (Mght months wliere we W(Mx\ 
 and for ]')reparing for our own wintm' journeys." 
 
 Pre])arati()ns \v(m-(^ comi)Iet(d by January .">. 1S.V2. and the 
 morning of that day the men on snow-shoes, with dogs di'ag 
 ging tl\(^ sl(Hlg(^s. st;u'ted off amid tlu^ cIumts of tlunr conn-ad(\'^ 
 and th(^ y(>l])ing and b;u'kiim- of the dogs. 
 
 ''The first object of tlie journ(\v,'" contimies 'Sir. Kemieily 
 "^'was, of c()urs(\ to ascei'tain wh(>tluM' Vwvy l-)eac]i had been 
 a retreating ]n)int to any of Sir .lohn ri'aiikliir> ])art\' since
 
 l:;0 
 
 THE (;nEAr white yoiiTii 
 
 it \vas vi>iie(l by LicuTcnaiit EoMnson. of the Knierprise, in 
 \s\\]. A -ccondary object, should (nir ex])ectation< in tlii.s 
 f('-])ccr nut be reahzc(l. was to iorni a first <le])(jt ol' j)r(rv'i- 
 ^i()ns iiefe. with the view (jf carryin'i: otit a more exteiulcfl 
 scarcli a- soon as eii'cunistanccs wotild ])cnrht. It was ile- 
 >irabl(' at tlic same time to ascertain the state of the r(jads, 
 1 1\' wiiicli. (jf I'ourse, I mean tlie yet tnitrodd('n >urface of the 
 snow (jr ice. in the direction in wliich we meant to <i'o, before 
 commcni'in.L!; aii\' ti'an-port. on a lar<2:e scal(\ bf>tween the 
 shi]) and I'du'y Picach : and it was thou^irht ad\'isable, tlicrc- 
 fure. to ,u'o coni])arali\'cly hu'lit. A <niall .-u])])ly of penunican 
 was all we took with ns in tiddition to our travellin.a; re- 
 fiuii'cmcnt-, con.-isiinti of a tent ami ])(d('-. lilardcctimi and 
 ]ii'()\-i-i()n~ for a w(<'k, -ome ,ti'uns and amnumiiion, fu(-l. anil 
 a c()()j-;i!i_u- a]i])aranH. in all wcjo'iiinrr fr(jm t\\'() hundred to 
 two hundr('d and fifl\' ])ound>." 
 
 Fro]n ihc oul-ct the t ra\"(-llin'j; wa-^ difhcult and ariluou-. 
 '■ ... iiol infrc(juenll\' after toilinii; lo the t(j]) of an incline. 
 a lui'ch of the -l(-iLi,h would .-end u- carec'rhmi' in a vei'}' li\'(ly 
 and unex])ccte(l manner to the bottom, lb-re lollows an in- 
 cident ill our hr-t da\''- journey, wliich cau-ed u- -ome anni-e- 
 ment at the time, and carrieil a le-.-on with it. whene\'er 
 ^\'|• !:ad to eiicoiniti-r any of the-e ob>tacle< afterward. 
 
 'A\C had uot about liaflfway U]) one of tho>e \"illainou- 
 .-teij,^. whr.n (ii;r entire coneu'c o-;i\-(' unmi-lakablo -i^LTi- of 
 a toiideiicy to -ri-k a -ud.(lcn de-cent. Thert' wa- ju.-t time 
 
 :'o!' M- ■ o (■■•-1 < i;';' 1 he t raec.-. all 1/Ut ])ool' Mr. I)e!!ot , who wa- 
 not -ufiiei'-e; ;y aleft in > li-etmaliltcj,- hi<. when ,aWa\' A\'ent 
 the d-i-h and. doM-. and Mr. I'ellot after iliem into an ab\--< 
 
 at tiK 
 thai < 
 
 ;i-:'e t i:c o!il\- lie Ileal loll ot t ! 
 
 r tl,,. --la-troj.he 
 n wa- -ome ~ix in-li.- nf Mr. I',cllot'- hreU 
 ,abo\-e t''i- -urfcr.' oi b!;o -iiow. W'c (JuLi.' him out 'a \\'i-''r 
 and a bicoi ii);,ii' fur tlif^ re-t of t!io joui'ney. w!ir-ne\-er any 
 of th'.-i- pe-tiient .-iiipe.- had to be cucotmtered thereaftC'r."*
 
 CAPTAIN KENNEDY— BELLOT 131 
 
 On the Sth, the distance to Fury Beach l:)eing ver}' short, 
 ]\Ir. Kennedy decided to leave the sledge and two of the 
 men, and press on with ]Mr. Bellot, and one man unen- 
 cumbered. 
 
 "It ma}' Ije imagined with what feelings," says Kennedy, 
 "wluni we really had come upon it, we approached a spot 
 roiunl which so many hopes and anxieties liad so long centred. 
 Every object, distinguished by the moonlight in the distance, 
 became animated to our imaginations, into the forms of our 
 long-absent countrymen ; for had they been imprisoned 
 anA'where in the Arctic Seas, within a reasonal)le distance 
 of Fury Beacli, here we felt assured some of them at least 
 would luiA'e been now. But alas ! for these fond hopes ! 
 riow d(H'])ly, though perhaps unconsciously cherislied, nonc^ 
 of us proba])ly suspected, till standing under the tattered 
 covering of Somerset House, and gazing silently upon the 
 solitude^ around us, we felt as we turnc-d to look mournfully 
 on each other's faces, that the last ray of hope as to this 
 cherislied imagination had fled from our hearts. It is perhaps 
 n(M'essary for the vigorous prosecution of any diffictilt obj(>ct 
 that for the moment, some particular circumstance in tlie 
 chain of 0]K-rati()ns by which it is to b(^ effected, should seem 
 to tis so vitally important that the eve is l)linde(l to all Ijeyond. 
 The spot on wliich we now stood had so long \)OQn associated 
 in our minds with some clue to the discoA'cry of the solution 
 of the painful mystery which hung over the fate of Franklin, 
 and had so long unconsciotisly pei'haps colourc^l all otu' 
 tliought, that it was not without a pang, and a feeling as if 
 the main ]:)urpose of oiu' expcMlition had ])een rlefeated, that 
 we found all otn' long-cherish(nl anticipations sliattered at a 
 1)1()W by the scene wliich. met ovir eyes. Thu-< my friend and 
 I stood ])arah'zed at th(^ denth-like solitude around us. \o 
 \'('stige of the vi<it of a human lieing was liere since Fi'-u- 
 t(aiant Robinson had examined the de})ot in 1849. The
 
 \^]-2 
 
 THE (J I! EAT WlirrK NORTH 
 
 >stoi'(.>s, still in tlic must ix^rfcct i)r('S(M'v;itioii, were precisely 
 ill the \vell-;irruni:;(Hl coiulition, descrilxnl in the clear rcjiort 
 of that eneri2;etic officer." 
 
 "His own notice of his \'isit,'' continnes ^\r. K(>nne(ly, 
 "Was (leei)ly buried in the snow, and th(> index staff he luid 
 ])laced o\-er it was thro\\'n down and _u:nawed by the foxes. 
 ^\'eai■i(>(l with a lon.t;- and fruitless examination we took up 
 our ([uarters for a repose of a few hoiu's in Somei'>et nous(>, 
 the franu^ of \\'hich was still standin,!^,' entire, hut tlu^ co\'er- 
 iiijj,' blown to raii;s by the wind, and oik^ end of the house n(\u'ly 
 lill(-d with snow. A\'e li,<i,ht(Ml a fir(^ on the stove which had 
 heated tlu^ (-nd occu])ied by Sir ,h)hn lioss's crew during the 
 (lr(\ii'y winter of bS;]2-;);). 
 
 ''After refreslnnii; oiu'seU'es with a warm su])])er, and nod- 
 diiiLi; for a few hours o\'er the lire, we s(>t out about 11 p.m. 
 on our ret urn to our encam])ment , wh.ich we i r;!ched by 2 a.m. 
 of the fol!owin<i- moi'ihug. ( )ur return fi-oni tliis ])oint to ih.e 
 ship, wh.ich we reached about o p.m. of Saturoa}' the lOlh, 
 was liot marked by auiy incident worthy of notice. 
 
 ■■\\'e had deposited at our encampment a IH)-])ound 
 ca-^c of ])emmican, a bag of coals, two mu--kets, and some 
 anununit ion. whicli, whiile it seized as a re>er\'e for futui'e 
 exijlorations in this direction, materially liglitencd the laiivtur 
 (»!' the dogs, and allowed us time U)V a inoi'e nrmute examina' 
 tioii of the coast th;ui we had b(H'ii able to inak(> dui'ing the 
 outward joui'iu^v. Tlie resuK. !iowe\'er, was not in any 
 i'f'--pcct iuo;'!' succ(>ssl'uj. \o traces of any kind ^vere disco\'- 
 ei'ed \\-hi:'ii could thi'ow hcdil on the objcct< of our seai'eh. 
 
 "Thu- en;le(l (.ui' :ir-t joiu'iiey to Idii')' lle.ach, and it,- ri>- 
 >U!!- -;;'!-.[;., ■(! ;i- thai, ill th" pi'eseiit >t;ite of the ice ill I'i'ilice 
 neueiil'.- Inlet, tlie lllore extelidi'd expiorat ious of the coa-l- 
 liiie, wiiieh we had caieul;il''d on bcin-j,' ablr to eommence 
 (III I Mir ivl ui'i! to t tu' -iiip, eoiili ! nut now be ~-;ifely uiidert akeii, 
 ;ilid inu-i for the pre>enl be po-tpoiied. We Were most
 
 CAPTAIN KKyyEur loo 
 
 reluctantly ('(jinpcllcd, tli(M'cfore, to ]iass the next iiioiith in 
 the sliij), oecu])ie(l in the same ^e-neral routine" duties as 
 those on which we had been during the earlier ])art of tlu; 
 winter.'' 
 
 ('a])tain Kennedy gives a vivid descri])tion of Arctic gah^s 
 and the dangers of travel during a t(>ni])est. "Al)out (Mght 
 A.M. in the morning of the lotli February," he writes, "'Mr. 
 Bellot, tlu" carpenter, Andrew Irvine, li(>nr}' Anderson (the 
 first mate), and myself left the ship, taking with us two cases 
 of ])emmican, and three tin jars, each containing two gallons 
 of si)irits of wine, on. a sl(Mlge, drawn by five Eskimo dogs, 
 for the ]Mn']>ose of (le])ositing them a shoi't distance on the 
 wa>' to Fur\' l^>eacli, and returning in th(" evening. After 
 ])roceeding for a few hours, and making \'eiy fair ])rogress 
 along a tolerably good ])ath, a strong wind aros(\ which by one 
 P.M. had increased to a ])(M'fect hurricane, s(j tlnckly chargc^d 
 with sTiow that, in att(Mnj)ting to cross a bay on our retui'n. 
 we l()>t sight of tlu" land by which oui' course houKnvard 
 had been guided. In short, after wandering about for some 
 time, scai'cely able to distinguish (>ach other at the distaiv.'e 
 of a few i)aces, we found that ^ve had fairly lost our way. In 
 tins dilenuna, we set two of the five fU)':y- loose fron) tlu^ 
 sledg(\ in the hojx" that th.ey woiild act as g'iiid,e< bettei' than 
 when drawing: l)ut tliis ])ro\'ed to be a mistake, as tlicy 
 wotild not lea\'(> the otliers. At Ia>t, however, they all set 
 olY together, taking the sledge witii thi'iu ;md lea\'inu' us to 
 our fate. As we afterwards found, they reached the ship 
 without any difficultx', and, as may r(^;idi]y be su])i)osed, ])ut 
 e\'ery on(> on board in a pei'fect U'vvr of tei'i'or and anxiety as 
 to what had become of us. In the meant im(\ we had gon(~ 
 on floundering ()V(>r broken ice, until W(" h-cl once more 
 stuinbled on the hmd, but wliei'e or wh.at the land wa< we 
 liad f;di(>n UDoii, iiobody knew. It w;!< something cei't airily 
 to know We were not marrhiii^' ovrv the Inlet or out to <e:i. in
 
 134 
 
 THE GREAT WHITE XORTII 
 
 which case we wtjuld have niarclied on, and in all ])rol)ability 
 ne\-er rclurneil : Ijiit in other respects we had rather lo>t 
 than (gained hy ^ucttini;; on tei'ra firnia. \\'ith an atni(jsj)her(? 
 a> thicic as jjea-^oup. and no siui, nio(jn, (jr stars to 1h' seen, 
 there was no k(-e])in.i;' the shore (and to ,uo on one .-ide or the 
 other wa> 1 (j inciu' the Certainty (jf leisin^' otn'selv('S auain. 
 (•ither on the Inlet or on the landj without hn,ii,u'in,L!; close ii]) 
 and into a l)reak-neck line of stranded fragments of ic(\ 
 which iiiiUi'ated the ilirection oi the beach. 
 
 ■'Ahjnu' thi- fonnidinole ])ath we flonndercul on — now 
 coniiini' hum]) i;]) a,LL:dnst .--oine hug*' fragiiK'iit of ice, or ])itch- 
 ing ()\-('r the tdj) of it into a hole, excavated in the snow at the 
 hottom, hy the whii'ling eildies of the wind : now walking, 
 now crawling, oee:i.-ion;dl\' ttinihiliiiu' iiit(.) the >now, tuitil 
 we Were all hrouuht II]) liy a cry oi' ])ain li-oni one of the men 
 who had met a ' hmilj .'■/ r.<( /nt nt' o\'er the ctl'sr of a hank of 
 ice. It \va- a >ad accidjMit. Ijiit the wor>t of it was. that 
 •di'u'V -ettimj; liim on hi< len^. nodiing eould induce him to 
 move a -tej) f;!;-ther. liei'e he wa-. and here he maintained he 
 mu-l remain ' r-e'/Z/wy/// cm/;/, ." ddiej-e AVa< no I'ea-oning with 
 the ])oor fellow, who certainly had sustained a A'ery severe 
 injury. Inn not ;u>.ythinu' like -o l)a'l a< he had inuiii'ined it, 
 and. it woul'l ne\-er d.o to le;i\-e liim lyini!: here. So feiLmimi; 
 to take ihni ;i! hi- Word;, we propo-ed to hiuii'lle him uip in a 
 h ifn-ilo-ro'ie and t>ur\' him i!i the -now tor the night - 
 ci'mfMi-iiim' him wiiii the a — urance tiiat We would cii-tauily 
 cnui'- li'M'lx: (i)V him in the morning. Thi- Arctic ])re-c!-ipi ion 
 hc'l .' maii.ic:il eff'Tt upon our ]);!.tient — the hack and ii:e 
 hrMk.-a hone-- w^re -])"e'!il\' fot'uotten. ;md in ;i -hort tmie 
 h'- w'::- Mil hi- le'^- iiuain. ;md we all t I'udiiinu' on once more in 
 tie oM rniiLi'h ;ind tunihie -tyje of ))roLL're--iom till ai>out 
 m''in:'i'.i. \v>- fmatd oar-~ej\-('- <l;indinu' under tlie lee of -onie- 
 thin'.:' whii-'f! liM.la-d hl;e ;i l.;.iik of -now. hut whi'-li. to oiu' 
 gi'e:U urai ific;i! ii ill. ]iro\'eil to he ihe ])o\vder hou>e we had
 
 CAPTAIN KESyEDY 135 
 
 erected on sliore in the beginning of the winter. A con- 
 sultation WMr< now held whether we should cut our wu}' into 
 it and ])ass th(> night here, 'accoutred as we were,' or make 
 for the shi]), whicli we now knew could not be far off. Our 
 decision was for the latter, and the only question now was, 
 how to steer for tlie vessel. This, too, was decided upon at 
 last, l)y each of the party pointing in turn, in the direction in 
 which he thought the vessel lay, and then taking the mean 
 of the bearings. To prevent our separating in tlie drift 
 (for some of the party had by this time got so benumbed with 
 cold, as to lie unable To use their hands to clear tlieir cn'e- 
 lids, and had thus become literally blind with the accumula- 
 tion of the snow on tlieir eyes), it was agreed that at certain 
 intervals we should call and answer each other's names, and 
 that those whose eyes had suffered least should tak(> the 
 others in tow. In this order, we ])roceeded for the vessel, and 
 fortunately by the guidance (jf a solitary star, that could be 
 faintly distinguished throtigh the drift, g(jt near (>nough to the 
 sh.i]) to hear the wind whistling through tiie shrouds and were 
 thus guided, rather by the ear than l)y the eye. to her j^io-ition, 
 and soon afterwards found our>el\'(\s on bcjard. where we were 
 receiveil once more as those innn tlie dead. 
 
 "These short joui'ireys, howe\'er arduous, in whicli caches 
 were establi>lied for future use, were only prelimiiuiry skir- 
 mishes t(_) the 'grand jouriK^y' ])laiined by O'aptain Kcnmedy 
 with much forethought and, in ])r('])aration for which days 
 h.ad bef'ii occu])ied in making suitable a])])arel. tr;i]:)])inu-. and 
 sledges. It was ex])ected that tlie journc^y would take at 
 k^ast tliree months. The ])articular dir(H'tion (jur route 
 oudit to a.ssume. was, of coin'<e, a matter to be I'egulatcd 
 very mucli by the nature of the circumstances that might 
 ai'i.-e in tlie course of it. On one point only we wei'(> decid('(l, 
 \'iz. I hat it should cmbi-ace ( 'ajie Wallcer t(j Avliich. a< the 
 p(jiiit (jf dc])arture of Sir J(jhn Franklin for tlie uriknown
 
 lol') 
 
 THE a UK AT WHITE X OUT IT 
 
 rciiioiis to l!i;''\\". ;rii(l S.A\'.. had \\v decided \i])C)n lliis coiu'se. 
 and not j^one u]) \\ ellinglon ( "huiiuel, inueh interest natui'ully 
 attached. 
 
 ■"Tliere were fourteen of the crew disposal)]!^ in the slii]),"' 
 continues ('a])tain Kennedy, "of whom four picked men were 
 to ,u<) with. Mr. Ijellot ;md myself to ('a])e \\'alf:ei'. whil(> t h.e 
 rest w(a-e to accomi)any us, as a fatitiue ])arty, as fai' as I'ury 
 l^eacli, wliich was to foi'm the start in,u-})oint of ti.e journey. 
 Parties sent out on (U!f(M'ent occasions durin.u' tlie last two 
 month-, had taken in a(h.'ance six cas(^s of ])emmican, six 
 mu>kets, and a haii' o'f coals. One c;ise of ])(>mmican, as 
 already mentioned, had been. de]:)o>ited in January a few miles 
 noi'th of l-"ur}' I'oint. ( )ui' ])ro\'isions. clothinu', and i)eddint2:, 
 drawn u])on two Indi;in s!ei;i,-hs hy oui' (i\'e dou's, had, of cours(>, 
 heen red;!ced to whatever was sli'ictly indis])ensa!)le. l''i\'e 
 iL'.'dion.s of spirits of wine were taken as a suhstilute for fuel. 
 \\'ith i)roi)er mana.u'ement and (M'onomy. we hojied to make 
 this la<t u- till tlie siii'inu'. when, hy tlie ])ian we ])i'oi)osed 
 ado])! ini':, of traveliin.u; durina: the niu'ht insteail of the da\', 
 \\'e ln!-ii'd, .should a n(-ce-<ily ari-e for so doinu'. to he ahle 
 to di>p( n>(> Avith the use of i'u(>l alloii'et h(>r. 
 
 " < >p, t he moi'niti.u' of t he "201 h of hel )i'uai'>'. a sc('n(> of ucneral - 
 hu>tl(' and excitement showed that all our ai'ranu'emenls had 
 keen com])leted, and that tht loim-defei'i'ed stiu't for the .u'i'and 
 joMrncy wa- ahout to take place. A detachment of h\"e mcn^ 
 Ail', i'ellot, and my>elf. were ;dl that could le;i\'e the .-hip ;it 
 ihi- linic: till' olt:ci'< ap])olnicd lo in!!; u- lieinu: -lill uiidci- 
 thi' d:ii''(ii''- attendance foi- -liuht and tcmpoi'arx' incon- 
 \'('iiii'!icc. !'io-t -I lites, etc. Th.e whole civw, howe\'i'l'. had 
 III':!-' i-!( 'd t() -cr u- ;;- fa!' as the -oiit'' p,oiiit iA l';,1t>' I'ay. ;ill 
 hill oi;i' dc::|- iliphiii'ii. who. imahle to control hi.- manly 
 (Miiitid!! a! pai'linu' wiiii .-o m,'in>" old fi'ifiidr-. ;ind aho\'c all 
 Ml hi'ii!2' U!iaii;i' to ;icc()iiM)ai!\' n-, took a touchiiar l.-U'cwcll 
 of us a! the \-e.--rl; '(iod hj.'.-- \-()U,' said he. u'i';i.-pin^' m\'
 
 CAPTAIN KKNXEDY 187 
 
 hand with affectionate warmth, 'I cannot accompany you, 
 and I cannot let ah these men witness nu emotion : let mo 
 part with you lier(\ and may doil <i'rant that we meet in hfo 
 and h.ealth. after the long and hazardous journey \'ou are 
 about to undertake.' Tliough. this veteran hero saw much 
 liardshii) and hazard in store before us. h(> would have seen 
 noiu^ whatever had he b(>en allowed to accom])any us, but 
 I c(juld not for a moment entertain the idea of employing 
 him on a journe\', wIkmi there were so many younger men all 
 (■mul(ju- to be engaged on it. and more ])arti(ailarly when 
 1 i- services on Ijoard shij) wc^e so indis]X'nsabl(^ : and, by 
 his kindly consenting to nnuain, I was relieved of all anxiety 
 as res])ected the Prince Albert. 
 
 "Iveacliing th(> south point of Batty Bay, with our friendly 
 escort, our two ])arties once more se]:)arated with many kindly 
 and touchinii- farewells and th(Mi, with thrcH' hearty cheers, 
 diverging in our different routes, we were soon lost to each 
 other in the mist and snow."' 
 
 Th(> fury of the eriuinoctial gales greatly im]~)eded the ad- 
 \-ance of the ])art}'. frecjuently detaining them for .several 
 dax's a.t a time. 
 
 Sledges, moccasins, and snow-shoes wei'e greatly dam- 
 aged under th(^ hard conditions of travel, and it was found 
 nec(-ssar\" when the whole party had a>scmbl('(l jit Fury Tieach 
 to sf lid back lo the shi]) for additional sui)])lies. Tlic-y also 
 made use of the exc(-llent stores found at the Fury Beach 
 wliicli luid been left there thirty years before. It was de- 
 cided, after careful ca!(ailalion, that six men could cai'ry 
 ])ro\'isions for the propo>ed journey of three mouths' dura- 
 tion: that fourteen men >li()uld tra\'el as far as ]>i'entfoi'd 
 I-)a\'. at \\'hich ])oint eight would return to tlie shi]). the re- 
 maining <ix to iiroce('d, carrying with them all ])rovisions 
 and necessaries for the remainder of the trip. 
 
 Tlie total dead wciii'ht of thi> t'l luipnient, including slcdiics
 
 1:58 
 
 THE GREAT WHITE yORTIT 
 
 and tacklin.ii;, ini,<i;Iit Iicc^tiniatcvlat about two tliou,<and pounds. 
 '■ The w'lujlc wa.s lashed down,"" Wi'itcvs Kennedy, " to the 
 sniahe>t ])(j<sihle e(jni])as> on four fhit-b(jttonied Iiulian sleighs, 
 of which our five M-kiiuo (hjgs. assisted by two men to each 
 sleigh, to(jk two, while the re-t of the men took tlie other two." 
 
 The day oi their st;ir! ])i'0\'ed nhld and pleasant, and at 
 first the travelling was gocxl, the ice lacing sufficiently smooth 
 to make (>asy and ]'a])id ])r(jgress. But such good foilune 
 did not remain with them long, and the ine\'itable gales made 
 travelling most difficult and painful. The usual snovv" huts 
 were erected at night, u.nder which they took sudi comfort as 
 their short hours of rest afforded them. Frost-bites caused 
 them mucii suffei'ing, and to pi'otect their fac(\s they resorted 
 to curious expedients. 
 
 'Tor the eyes,"" writes Kennedy, "we liad gou'gies of 
 glass, of wir(>-gauze. of cra])e, or (.)f ])lain vrood with a slit 
 in the centre, in the manner of J-^-kinios. P'or the face, 
 som(^ had cloth-ma^k-^, with neat little ci'e\'ices f(,r the m<julh, 
 n(jse, and eye- ; (Ahei's were jmiifled, u]) in the ordiiiai'y 
 chin-cloth, and, fcjr that juo.-t troublesome of the facial 
 members, the no<(\ a >trong part\', wilh our always original 
 carpenter a1 their hea<l, had gutla-])ercha no>es, lined with 
 d('lie;.ie -:{)ft flaimej."' Tlioiigli adnhraife in theory, ihese 
 conl !'i\'ances ])ro\'ed failures in ])ractice, and were all discai'ded 
 exce])t trie cliin-cji d iis and gugu'h's. 
 
 On the (1th of April {hey reache(l Ih'cntford Bay, and the 
 fatigue i)ar;\' begun their retrograde journey to the .-hi]). At 
 this point Kennedx' disc(i\-ered a ,-ti'ait running westward, 
 separating Xoi'th Snfuersi-t fi'om Pjoothia I-Vlix. Tlii- he 
 nanii-d Bellot Slr;iit, iti lionoui' of tlie bj'ax'e yoanu' ohiecr 
 who li;)d -ecuri'd the alfect ioiiat e reii'ai'd of conuiiandcr and 
 crew, l-'i'oni ic re the ]);irty crossed X'ietoria Sti'ait to Prince 
 of Whd"- banih naming ni;ui\' of the ])i'omin(ait headlands, 
 h;t\'.~. and i,-l;Uid>.
 
 CAPTAIN KENNEDY 139 
 
 On April 17 the thorinometor stood at plus 22, " a tcm- 
 ])eratur(%" writers KcuiuHly, "whicli, to our sensations, was 
 al)solut(43'^ oppressive. One of our dogs, through over-exer- 
 tion, fainted in his traces, and lay gasping for Ijreath for a 
 quarter of an hour ; but aft(n' recovering, went on as merrily 
 as ever. These faithful creatur(>s wc^re perfect treasures to 
 us throughout tli(^^ journey. They were all suffering, like 
 ourselves, from snow-blindness, but did not in the least 
 relax their exertions on this account. The Eskimo's dog is, 
 in fact, tlu^ camel of these northern (U^serts ; the faithful 
 attendant of man, and the sharer of his labors and priva- 
 tions." 
 
 The flat country over which th(\v werc^ travelling, and the 
 close proximity of the J\Iagnetic Pole, which rc^ndered their 
 compass of little use, made it particularh^ difficult to keep a 
 westerly coui'se. Tt was hoped that this direction would k^ad 
 to a sea which would conduct them northward to Capo 
 Walker. From this poin.t thc^y hoped to asccn'tain if there 
 was any westward channel or sti-ait tlu'ough which Sir John 
 Franklin might have ])(MK-trate(l. Aft(>r marching for thir- 
 teen days, and r(\aching the hundi'CMlth d(\gre(^ of west longi- 
 tude, without coming to a sea, KenncMly ckx'ided to turn north- 
 ward to (.\u)e ^^'alker. 
 
 "Being now satisfied," h(^ writ(^s, ''that Sir James Ross 
 had, in liis land jourricy along the westcn-n shore of Xorth 
 S()!n(^rs(^t, in 1819, mistakcMi th(^ very low level land over 
 which w(^ liad Ixhmi travelling for a w(\stern s(^a, I f(Jt no 
 longer justifiiMl in continuing a west(M'n cours(\ A\'hatever 
 passag(^ mign.L c^xist to tlu^ souili-west of ('a])(> A\'alker, T felt 
 assur(Hl must now \)v (su oiu' north. T (k'teriuined therefoi'e, 
 from this time foi'ward, to dirc^ct ouj- coursf^ northward, until 
 we should fall u])on sonu^ chann(4 which we knew must exist 
 not far from us, in this direction, by which Franklin might 
 haA'c })assed to the sou^thwest."
 
 140 
 
 THE a in: AT WHITE yO UTJI 
 
 The cliaiiut'l foi' which the}' were in scai'ch could not be 
 found. l-)()i>tci'(ju> uah's -till pui'sucd thcni, und the men 
 hcuan t(j show the clVccts of exhaustion and exjjosui'c in the 
 form of the drcailcd scurv\'. They, t heref(_)i'e. turned east- 
 ward a,<iain and, I'eachin.Li,' ('a])e Ijurne}'. they made next for 
 ('a.i)e Walker, which fii'>t loomed in the di-tance the 4th of 
 ^Iny. Idicir disrqjpointment was gi'eat at iindina: no trace of 
 rranklin's ex])editioii. 
 
 ■■\\'earie(l and dis])irite(l l)eyond deseri])tion."' writes 
 ('ai)tain Kcmiedy. •"at the fruitless result of our lon,a; and 
 anxious laboui's, we retiu'ned to otir encam])ment. <iuided 
 thi'ou.uh a hca\'\' snow-storm by the re])ort (jf ^'un^-. which I 
 had directed to be fired every fifteen minutes, to make ])re])- 
 aratinn for our return homeward, ddiis could be elfected 
 eitiiei- by ])u>hin.u' directly for I^atty Ba\'. aero-- \orth Somer- 
 set, a di.-tance in a straiu'ht line of n.ot more than ,-ix days" 
 joui'uey, or by following' the coa-t round to \\dialer Point, 
 and thence to the -hil)." ddic lattei- I'oute was cho-en. tlioUi^h 
 the di>tance \\-as nearly double tliat of the other, and after 
 an ab-ence of ninet \'->e\-en days and eoN'eriuLi,' aliout ele\"en 
 hundred mile<. they at last reached the shi]) May '-'A). \ 
 I'emai-kaMe joui'iiex' "for >ix men and fi\'e doji:-, (li'a.u'Kinu' for 
 mo-t of the wa\' t Wo thousand ])ounib" wei^bt . and -le('])in_u; 
 in >nowhou>e-. eiicampinii on frozen seas, and rarely ha\"in,i!; 
 a fire when l hey halted to recruit ." 
 
 Preparabion- ioi- the I'etui'n to ]-Jiu'land were now com- 
 menced, .buiie and July i)a--ed williout ttie \"e--e! bccominu' 
 fi'ce tVoni the ice, biM by the (it h of Auiiu-t, after sawiuu,' and 
 bl;i-tini:\ the little cfafl wa- liiierated. At hieechcy k-laiid. 
 which { 'aptain Kennedy reachdl the bMli. he found the di-pot 
 .-hip Vnrth Sliii\ now- attached to .'^ir K. lielcher'.- expedition, 
 eii'^a^cil ill -;iwiii'j,- inio winter (|U;u'lcr<. P!-oc('cdiiiLi' in her 
 co;u'-c. t he /'/■//, r- .1 //" rl reached Pnji'laud. after an une\'eiit ful 
 \'o\'aLi,e. ( )ctiii icr 7. iN.l:;.
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Srarcli for Sir John Franklin continued: Sir Edward Belcher's 
 s(iua(h'on. — Inii'lefichL — Race's journey. — Discovery of Xorlli- 
 we:st ra.<.<aKe by Captain Al'Clure. — lJc>ath of Bellot. 
 
 IxTKKEST in th(» mysterious fate of Sir John FrankUn was 
 in no wi<e U'sscmkmI l)y the unexpected return to Eni^Uuid of 
 the searchinjj; s(]Ua(h'on in 1S51. Dr. Rae"s huid journey of 
 over ei.u'ht hun(h'(Hl miles, including; a tliorouji'li examination 
 of tlu' east and north coast of N'ictoria Land, had tlu'own 
 no new light on the tragic situation. The American coast 
 had now heini diligcMitly examined from the entrance of J^eh- 
 ring Strait to the head of Hudson ]3ay, and it was generally 
 liclicved that Fratiklin had ncvca- i'(>ached so Ioav a latittide. 
 
 On April 28, 1S.52, a thorotighly e(pii])])ed s(iuadron of 
 five vess(ds — - the Asy.isUincc. the Jicsolute, and the XortI/ Star, 
 and two strvimcr^, th(> Pioneer and Intrepic] — sailed from 
 l-jiglaml undor tlu^ command of Sir h^dward P)elcher. The 
 Assistdiice and Pioneer wei'e to sail u]) WellingtcMi Channel. 
 The Resohifi' and Intrepid, tinder command of Ca])tain Kellett, 
 were to proceed to MeKdlle Inland, tliere to de])osit i^i'ovisions 
 for the use of Captain Colhuson ;uid ( 'ommander M'(dtu'(\ 
 sliould they succeed in making tlte ])assage from I^ehring 
 Strait, for Vv-'nieh. as we liave scnai, they had s(>t sail in. Janu- 
 ary, FS.-jO. 'VlwSortii Star \vd> to remain at Reeehey Island 
 as a depot store slii]). 
 
 ]^y the ()ih of Jul>' the sciuadron was in I^afhn Ray, 
 aceompanifMl hy a fleet of whaler-^. The ice condiiiions ])roved 
 exa<i)eratinu' : th.e Asslsfirnee. Pinneer. and Ri solute were l)e>et 
 and detaineil foi- a time, wliile tlie I'est of th.e fleet, accom- 
 
 141
 
 142 
 
 TiiK GiiKAT WHITE yoimi 
 
 
 
 *x 
 
 >«**sf^ ^ 
 
 ])aiii('(l hy the wli;ilc!'s, stn^tcliod iu a loni;- train of some three 
 
 (|iiar(('i's of a iiiilc in It'iiiith and slowlx' jjushcd their way 
 
 throut!,h a nai'row lane of water. 
 
 The Aniei'iean whaler, MvLclUin, had the lead; tlu> Xorth 
 
 ^Star of the l-]ii<2,'lish sciuadron foUowcxl the MvLvUaii. Tlie 
 _ - weatlier coiuUtions 
 
 were most fa\-our- 
 able ; no anxic iy 
 was f(dl for th(^ 
 .safet3'of the V(,'ssels, 
 ill spile of the fact 
 that the lane of 
 water L!;radnally 
 (dosed and })i'e- 
 veiited the ships 
 fi'om advanein^s;' or 
 ret !'eatin,<;'nnt!l, inly 
 7, when the report 
 was made' that the 
 
 til "r^r ^^V^ • , ■ n • 
 
 - r-h»J.^. : "- ^- ni])i)ed m the ice 
 
 and her ei'cw niak- 
 
 iiiji; ready lo ;il);m- 
 
 doii liei'. ('ai'i)eii- 
 
 t(M's, niider orders 
 
 of Sir l-idward V>el- 
 
 chei', put a U'W ch-iivu'es of powder in th.e ice, to relieve the 
 
 d'hr- iii'xt d;i\', howev(M\ ihe Mcfjll'iii was iiii)iKMl harder 
 tliiiii e\('i- with die water pouriiia.- iiiio her in a s!ead\' sti'(\'iin. 
 \\ hih' ' h'i'': ;;!j,' liiiinMiiaii'eah'ie. fii'-i into one sliip and then 
 into ;inoth.er. -lie W'i< !i;);ii-d''d hy Ivi'di'^li wli;il(Mnen who 
 l)roi'(i'( |c(| to r;in<:ielv ;iiid phni'ler \\it. until, at the ("aptnin's 
 ]'((|ni'-t. Sir liilwai'd iu'lchcr placed sentries on hoai'd io 
 
 
 A I M I \1 ^1 I li \ \ 1 ) 1 I I ( I
 
 SIR EDWARD belcher's SQUADRON 143 
 
 prevent further loot, and working parties proceeded to take 
 in\'entory of her stores, and remove them to a safe cUstance. 
 In a day or two tlic McLcllan liad sunk to the Avater's edge, 
 and for the safety of the rest of the fleet, a charge or two of 
 powdc^r put her out of the way. 
 
 The squadron reached its headquarters at Beechey Island, 
 August 10. \\'(^llington Cliamud and Barrow Strait were 
 found free from ic(\, and on the 14th, Sir Edward Belcher, with 
 tlie Pioneer and A,'<si-stance, ])roceedetl u]) the Chanmd. The 
 next day Captain Kellett, with the Resolute und I ntrei)id, sailed 
 in open water for ]\I(4ville Island. 
 
 While Sir Edward Belchcu-'s s(]uadron was making its ardu- 
 ous passage to Beechey Island, Lady Franklin had refitted 
 tl)(^ screw-steamt^r Isabel and ])lac(Hl it luider Commander In- 
 glefield, R. X., with instructions to inv(^stigate the rumour 
 hrouglit home l)y Sir John Ross to the effect that Franklin 
 and his crew liad been miu'dered by natives at Wolstenholnie 
 Sound. 
 
 S(^tting sail from England, July 6, 1852, the little Iseibel 
 ma(l(^ for the noitliern shores of Baffin Bay, reacluMJ a higher 
 latitude^ u]) Wliale Soiuid than any ]irevious vessel, and later 
 pushed through Smith Sound as far as latitude 78° 28' 21" 
 X., Avithout discovering any o]~)]^osing land. Captain 
 Inglefield discovered tliat Smith Sound, generally supposed to 
 l)e narrow, was at knist thirty-six n.iiles across, expanding con- 
 sid(M'ably to tlie nortliward. Tlie shore s(Haned comi)aratiA'ely 
 fro(> from snow, and tlie rocks ai^i^ieari^l of tlunr luitural colour. 
 
 Ice was mt^t in consideralde f|uantiti(^s, and, though Captain 
 I'i'ilefield was amlsitious to sti^am through, a foi'tunate gale 
 isrosc which blc-w with sucli violence tliat the Isnhrl was forced 
 back, thus saving her in all prol)ability from a dreary winter 
 in tiie ic(\ 
 
 By th(^ 7th of September, the Isabel sighted the North Star 
 at Beeche\' Island.
 
 144 THE GREAT WIHTE yoRTII 
 
 "\\'hon wo W(M'{' near onouiili to s(H' from our crow's-iK^st 
 tlie must heads of the Xorth Slar, I had (jrdcred one of the 
 twelve pounders t(^ he tired and the ])eo})le who were workinji; 
 on shore were u,reatly ])uzzle(l at hearing sueh a sound, as 
 tiie\" believed that nothin*),' human but their own })arty e(juld 
 be within hundreds of miles of them." 
 
 ('ai)tain Injilefield soon "waited upon" ('a])tain PuUen, 
 and t!ie letters for ^^ir Edward Belcher's s(iuadron brou.aht 
 out b\- x\\o Isabel were ])laced upon the Xorlh Strir. A few 
 lunirs later the IsdljcJ ])ut off to sea, earryinii lett(M-s from 
 ofheers and crew of tlie Xuiih Star to relatives and friends in 
 En<i;land. 
 
 liy the 12th the Isabel stood off ^Nlount Po<se>>ion. by the 
 14th Cajx' ]>owen, and here ("a])tain Ingleheld landed to 
 look for traces and erect a cairn : nothinu; was di>co\-(>red but 
 the bold footi)rint of a huti'e bear and the tiny tracks of an 
 Arctic fox. Idle 2;]d found them in na\'is Strait. Hei'e a 
 terrific u'ale was encoimtered. wh.ich lasted four da\'s and 
 "accom])anied,"' wi'ites ( 'a])1ain In.ulefield, "with the heaviest 
 sea I had ever seen, (>ven otf ("a])e Horn. . . ."" 
 
 As soon as the stoi-m abated, they ))Ut for the nearest ]5ort 
 to undergo necessary r(>])airs. and by ()ct()ber 2 ihey made a 
 setllenient off llunde Elands, a little south of W'halefish. 
 Isl;ind<. The ,u'o\'ernor came on board to see what was 
 wanted, and, th(> n(>xt day beinu' Sunday, the ci'cw wei'<' _<;i\-en 
 shore lea\-(', and a uvnei'al da\" of re>t \\'as enjoyed. 
 
 ( )n th'' ')\}\. he writer, "I r(>ceive(l ;i in(-s;me froin the u'ov- 
 ernor, th.at it \va< the Kinu' of Demn.ark's biilhday, the Es- 
 kimo- would a-^seiuble at his house, and hax'e a dance, and 
 the plca>ui'e of my conii)an>' was >olicited loi' the occ;i>!on ; 
 ;!ccoi'dim:l\' ;it -i\ o'clociv I I'cpail'ed to the ^vooden Jj.alace of 
 hi- i'Acellciicy. ;ind then' f(tund. craiinncd into ;i smallish 
 chamber, a< many I'.-kimo- a- could con\'enient !y stand. 
 
 "I had prepared my.-elf with certaiii botlh's by which
 
 IXGLEFIEI.l) 145 
 
 pTinch could h^ quickly made ; and several officers and crew 
 juiiiin<2; the part}', i)y their assistance, each of the Eskimo 
 ladi(.>s was first supplied with a glass full of the beverage, 
 and afterward the gentlemen, when I made them understand 
 tluit th(>y were to give three cheers for the King of Denmark, 
 which was done with a vigour and goodheartedness, that 
 made tlie wooden walls echo again. 
 
 ''I had })re]~)ared another treat for them, which I am quite 
 sure was to many the most agreeable of the two. ]\Iy cox- 
 swain came in to tell u\v when all was ready, and then I begged 
 the governor would tell the party to go outside where I had 
 sometliing to show them. 
 
 '■^^dlen all were assembled, the booming of one of our guns, 
 which by signal was firc^l from the vessel, not a little alarmed 
 some of the most timid, and their fear was not much allayed, 
 when, from midei' their very noses, a shower of rockets flew 
 into mid-air, with a whirl that startled some of the more 
 ancient sages amongst tliem, though when no damage was 
 found to accrue^ to any of the party, the shouts of joy over- 
 powered tlu^ noise of the rockets. The l)lue lights and white 
 lights, whicli were !)m'nt to enliven the performance, were 
 objects of great curiosity, and I could see some enf^uiring facets, 
 eagerly watching our movements, as the port-fires were 
 I^UuhmI -To ignite them." 
 
 ■"Dancing was afterwards c(jmmence(l,"' continues Captain 
 Inu'letield, ■"and feeling that it was my duty to lead off with 
 the g()V('rnor"s wife, who was an Kskinio, T b(>gge(l the hon- 
 oui' of her hand, for a dance, in the b(>st Eslcimo of which I 
 was ma<t(>r. and to the scra]iing of a disabled fiddle bound 
 round with twine and, s]^lints, I launched into the mysteries 
 of an E>kinio ciuadi'ille. wliich. but for the strenuous exer- 
 tions of my partnta-, to ke(>]) me right. T should certainly have 
 set into utter confusion. 
 
 "It was composed of a cJuiinp tics fJrnncs and a r(H^I. com-
 
 14G 
 
 ■niK CRKAT WHITE XOHTII 
 
 ])\('X to a wondci'i'ul (l('<i,r('(\ uiid cxhuustiiiR' lo a fi'lulitful ox- 
 tciit ; uiid yet it a])|)far'('(l lo !;(> the (l(-lci'iiiiiialioii of the wiujlc 
 j)art\' 1() coiitiinic at this one fi^^urc till lived nature >uiik. 
 
 ■' l'iiacci!>toiii('(l To this kind of \-i(jlciit cxcrci-c, 1 wa- ,-oon 
 knocked u]), and tried, ih(ni,<ih unsuccessfully, to make my 
 e-c;i])e : i)ul at la>t 1 had the ji,'ratificati(jn of obser\"in,u' ;m 
 elderly lady ojjpor-ite 1 K-uinnin^ii' to falter, and out (jf compli- 
 ment \u her I |)i'e>ume this d;uice was tei'ininated. 
 
 ■■'Idie l;!>kinio> .-eem to thiidv it is im])os>ikle to he too 
 Warm, >o the doors and wind.ows were tightly clo-efl. and 
 (■(■Hain lam])< and tallow candle> (with which I laul >ui)})lie(l 
 hi- I'.xci-licncy >()(>n t)rou,i:ht t he tem])ei-ature up t(j khjod heat. 
 
 ■'Aftei' ri'-tin^- from my labour, 1 determined to try their 
 Waltz, which I Jound wa< not \'ery milike oui's, hein.u' pei'- 
 fornied xtmewhat in the same manner, and the fair ladies 
 with whom 1 now alternat('ly fi.uured instruct in-z me in the 
 my-tei-i(-- of the measure. Some of !iiy .-ailoi's ha\'in,L!' oh- 
 taiiiiMl permi>.-ion to atti nd the hall, they were now -olicited 
 to ui\-e a -j)ecim<-n of tla-ir -kill, and accoivlinuly a -ailor's 
 hoi'Mpipe and re('h with the u-ual heel and to(' accom])aninient, 
 met with i:reat a])])!au-e. I had had suhicif'Ut fun by nine 
 o'i'lock. Init thf' pai'ty did not bj-eak u]) till ;ifter twelvt-; 
 bel'iifc I wint away. hoWe\'ei', at Uiy si)ecial l'e(jU''-t. -ome 
 r^-kimo mi'lod;i'< wei-e -un'i by the party, and after\\'ards a 
 haimh national h\-mn by the u-overnor. ^\ hen the olhcers 
 •and iiM-ii wi-vf ri't lU'iiiii'i in their boat to the ship they wri'c 
 -' -iiiahlcd !,\- ilii- l;i(hc- of the ])ai't\'. who joininii' hand-in- 
 !.:.i:d \vailwd alonL^ the rock.- toward- the ,-hip. ,-iii'iitn.': a 
 ! ;,il!'i\-e ai:', which liiiLLhl W''ll ha\'e b(>en takfli fol' their 
 e\-i!iim:- !;."'iiii. And -uch it may ha\'i' bci'ii, tor the-i' poor 
 i"''C'!i'. -'■ii:i-i'i\ili/(d and iii-ti'ucted a- they ha\'e ln'cn by 
 It.'- haiii-. a:v fiih o[' t'cr\-onr and zeal foi' thrir ivhLiion, 
 ti.i' f ,u' h'vaii, aicl -how more real moral ])i'incipie than any 
 nation I ever vi.-itfMl.''
 
 INGLEFTELB 
 
 147 
 
 By tlio 7th of OctolxM- the Isabel was ready for sea, bat 
 encountered tcn-rilie i^ales. Upon the advice of the ice- 
 ma.stei's, Ca})tain In,u;lefield determined to retmii to Eni;land 
 in si)ite of a stron.a; desire to winter and coin])let(^ the scvirch 
 of the west coast of Baffin Bay 1)}' sledge journeys in tlie 
 s])rini;' a.nd the survey of Davis iStrait from Cape A\'aisina;ham 
 soutli, as fai" as Xewfoundhmd. However, a continuance of 
 l)a(l ^\■(nltller mad(> sncli a course impractical )1(% and l)y 
 \ov(Mnl)er 4 th(> Isabel ancliored at Stronm(>ss ; l)y tlie lOtli 
 of Xovemher she made Peterheatl hy way of Pentland Firtli. 
 
 "L^esid(\'^ pen- 
 
 / 
 
 i V- 
 
 \\ 
 
 53*© 
 
 (>tratint!;one hini- 
 (h'tnl a!id foi'ty 
 miles further 
 than ]irevious 
 n;',vi,<;'at()rs, and 
 findinji; an o])en 
 >i'a st r(>t(diin.<^ 
 n () r t h w a r d s , 
 froiii l^);if fill's 
 I'.ay, to at l(>;i>t 
 tiit- latitude of 
 SO ", ( " a ]) t a i n 
 Inuleficld discov- 
 ered a sti'ait in 
 
 - I o 
 
 a I) o ti t II 
 
 whicli lie named 
 
 Al u r (• li i s o n 
 
 Strait, ;ind \'\'lii('h 
 
 he sii])i)osed to 
 
 foi'm tiic nortl;- 
 
 (MMi boundary to r.recnhuid."' ITis car(4ul survey of th(^ (\istern 
 
 sidi' of l>afhn f';;y, fi'oin ( ";ii'c\' Islands to ( 'npe AlcxMiidci-. and 
 
 his ap])roach to .Jones Sound, all contfihuted intci-cstinir 
 
 By prnnis^o'fin nf Tin TUin-inilnl [.(iikJou Xiirs. 
 Admmjm. Sn; l-;in\-Aiii) 1 \"<,i,l-:7'i i:i.i>. Ii'. X.
 
 148 
 
 THE (;l!KAT WHITE Xninil 
 
 (lata to .uco^i'a])! ileal kiiowlcdji-c, hut tli(ju<:li the iiati\-('S 
 with w!:(iin he met were carefully interro^uated, no li,ulit was 
 thrown on t!ie fate of Sir John Franklin or hi- men, and 
 the utier fal>il\' of the ,-tory t(;ld hy Sir John liO"'> iiHer- 
 ])reter wa> -al i.-faetoril\' estahli>hed. 
 
 r^arly in tlie year \>^')-). three ex])editions were lilted oul, 
 to a--i.-l Sii' J'idwai'd Pjclcher"- >f|Uadi'on ah'eady in the field, 
 anil to eontinue the -(-ai'ch for Sir John I'Vaiiklin. 
 
 ddic liiiUh si,iil:< . under ( "oinniandd- Jdi illopc. and llie 
 Isdhil — auain i'efitte(l l)y Lady l-'ranklin, and ])Ut in com- 
 inand of Mi'. Kenned\' — - set out with in>truetion> to,-;di lor 
 P^ehrinu' St rait and e;u-i'y -Uj)])lic> to ('aptains ( 'oliin-on and. 
 .M'(Ture. 1 )r. liae -ct oul a.uain for the further cxaniinal ion 
 of the eiia-t of Doolhia. and ('a])tain I null held wa- -<'nl to 
 I )arro^\' Strait in eonmiand of the I'lm n'l.r and L'l'ln /■'/'n//l:li -,^ ' 
 for th(' ]»ur])o-e of rei'iiforeinii' Sii' jjlward Ijelchcf. 
 
 In Aniei'ica the -cconil < U'llUK-ll exiXMiiiion w;i- fitted out 
 ali()Ut t!ic -anie lime foi' the ])ur])o-c oi' exphirinu- the ])a-.-ai!.< s 
 lcadin,Lf out oi' l-5afhii ]>ay into tlie unkuiown ocean- arouiid 
 the Pole, and wa- placed undei' 1 he eouiman;! ot' 1 )r. V.. \\. 
 Kane. V. >. X.. who had -ailed under kieuteiiant 1 )e IIa\'(ii 
 in t lie lir-t ( ii'innell expeilit ion. 
 
 Ill the autuinii of Is."):!, the dee]) intere-t of the h'u'ili-h 
 nation \\"a- arou-ed 1 ly the return ol' < 'aptaiii iiiLileni'ld of ihe 
 
 I'hnn'.r wilji I'e-pat i-hi- from the Al'iiie reOiioil-. eont aj 1 lil lli' 
 ih'' new- that the Norihwe-I i'a--aLi,c had al leii'Uh keen 
 -Ueee--!'i;ny a ecoin] )h-tie( 1 ky ('aptaiu M'^'luO' of the ///- 
 i-i si i,',iili,i'. w'iio hail pa--i'il throuuh I'x'hriu'j, Si I'aii and -aileil 
 \\'ii!]!ii a fi'W mile- ot' die iiio-t \\-e-irrly d i-eo \-i rii ■- madi' irom 
 kill- ea-O'i'ii -idi- of Aliieriea. at whii-h point hi' ha'! keoii iro/eii 
 ui I fi )!■ liii !!■<■ ; h.all ' Wi I year-. 
 
 I'ai'iii- from ihe /,,,o-.7m;<//-/' l.ad walked over llie fi'o/en 
 ocan : anij 1 .icut ona ul < iv--\',-i||. ij le ki ^a nu oi' t hr do-pa' ei,i-- 
 fi-oin ( aplain .M'( 'luro. had -ailid to hiii-la lid. k\- tin Atlantic
 
 ('.1P7'.17.V m'clure 149 
 
 ()c(>;in, havin.y; llius ]);iss(h1 through the far-famed, niiicli- 
 .s()U<i;lit-afl(M', and, at l('nji;lh, discovered Xorthwest Passage. 
 
 It will be reinenibered that ('a])tains CoUin.son and M'Clure 
 sailed for l)elirin_u; Strait in 1850, throu<i;h which, in coni- 
 ])any with the Piiivcr and Ilcrdld, they endeavoured to ])ass. 
 
 Th(^ J Nr('st!(/(ii()i\ ('a])tain M'Clurc^, was last seen on August 
 4, ISoO, bearing gallantly into the heuii of the "Polar Puck." 
 
 Captain ('ollinson, in tlu^ Enterprise, had concluded to winter 
 at Hongkong, and not until Alay, ISol, did he return to 
 ])(»hring Strait, which lie succiMMled in entering. In tlu; 
 nuvuitinie, the Ihrahf had returned to luigiand, while the 
 Plover I'lMuained some tinic^ at I'ort Clarence as a reserve for 
 the \-essels to fall back u])on. 
 
 On ])arting coinjiany with \ho Herald in P)ehi'ing Strait in 
 July, i(S,l(), Cai^tain AkClure stood north-northwest with a 
 fresh b!-(H>z(\ For seviM'al days the I nvestigidor struggled 
 witli the \vv pack, now boring thi'ough the masses, or winding 
 among the lanes of o])(>n watei'. By the 7th of August they 
 had rounded Point Barrow, at which ])oint clear water was sesMi 
 from the '" crow's nest." 
 
 ■'l'h(> wind." wi'ites APC 'lure, "almost imuK^liately f;iiling, 
 the l)oats wei'e a.ll mann(^l, and towing commenccMl amid songs 
 and clicei-s, which, continued with unabate<l good humom' 
 foi' six ho'urs. wlien this laborirnis woi'k was brought to a suc- 
 (•(^ssful t(M'mination. Being in ])('i'f(M'tl>' clear water in Smith's 
 Bay. a light aii' sp;ringing u}), we worked to the eastward. 
 At two A.M. of tlK> Sth, being olf Point Di'ew, sent .Mr. ( 'ourt 
 (second mate) on shor(> to evevX a cairn, and l)ury a notic(M)f 
 our having ])asse{l. r])on landing, we \\\^ve u\e\ l)y thi'ee 
 n:i{i\-('^. who at tirst w(>r(> very timid : but u])on exchanging 
 signs of fi'iend^hi]), which consist(Ml of raising the ai'ms thr(M^ 
 time> ov(M' th(> h(>a(h the>' a])pi'oached th(^ bo;it, and after the 
 ])leasaiit sa.hitation of I'ubbup.g nos(>s, Ix'came \'ery communi- 
 cativ(\ when, ]>>- the as>istance of our \'aluable int('r])i'eter>
 
 ir>n 
 
 THE GUI:AT white SOL'TH 
 
 Mr. ?\rKTtscliiii^u'. we i'ouiul the ti'ihc coii-i-tcil of leu tents 
 (this liciiiii' tiic (Mily a])pl't)acli lo their jiiiiiii.ic;'.- he coiild oh- 
 taini, that they had an-i\-('(l only ihi'cc day.- !;i-c\-iou>ly, and 
 that they hoM connnunicatifjii with a ])arly inhiiid. wlm ti'adc 
 with the l{u>sian Fur ( 'onipany. The ('\-('nin,Li,' Fclorc they 
 liad ol)-('r\'('d u<. hut could not iniauinc what laruc ti'cc- \vi-n' 
 inox'inii ali()Ut -our ma-l.-i and all the Irihc luid asscnihlcd on 
 the hcach to look at thcnn wh(-n they aLLTccil thaJ it \\'a> .-oiiic- 
 thinu' \-('i'y cxl !'aoi'dinary. and Icl'l the thi'cc nuai who nnl the 
 lioat. to watch! d'h(\" al>o ,u'a\'c the ])lca-in,u' int ciliu'(-ncc 
 that Avc -houhl fiml o|)cn water aloni!.' the coa-t from ahout 
 three to !iw' mile.- di.-lant during' the .-umnier. that the hea\"y 
 ice \-ery >eldom came in. or ne\-ei' left the land farther than 
 at ])re.-ent. that they diil not know if t hei'e were an\' i-lands 
 a- ihey found it imno-^iole to ud in iheii- kayak-, when in 
 ])ur-uir of >eal.<. failher than one day'.- journey to the main 
 ii-e, and ti.en the lan(-- of water allowed of their ])roceedin.u' 
 three ([Ua.'leiv^ of a day fai't h('r. wliieh hroi;i:ht them to \-ery 
 larLic and hiLi'h ice, with not .-pace (-noui:'!! in any jiart of 
 it to allow 1 heir kayak- to enter. The ])!■() ha oh' di-t ance, Air. 
 Miert-cliinii.' lliereinre e-timale.-. from hi- knowjeine i,f tlie 
 Iv-ldniM ha.ifn-. to lie ahout forty mile- off .-ho!-( , and. 
 fi'iiin what f ha\'e -ei-n of the ])ack, I am inclined lo think 
 thi- i- perfeciiy correct, for a more mihroken ma-- I ne\-er 
 A\m ne--,-d." 
 
 Th'-i' na!i\e-. who-e (-nlire li\-"< ha'l hei'll -])f]\] hf'u^een 
 
 the ( 'oppermine liixer and Point I'arrow. kiaw noii im:' of 
 Iraiii^hn'- pariy, and it wa- lh<'i'enire eoni-hioio 'oy ''apiam 
 M'(!urelhat 1 he /-.'/V /;'/.-■ a.nd 7'' /'/■",'■ had noi heeii !o-i on hhe-e 
 
 lor i'l e iiexi fiiur or hix-e imndred. mile- ilny -kirieij -fiwiy 
 
 111'' eo:i-;, piu'l of I he duie in -Ueh -halloW WaMT ihal tlicy 
 rail a^roed. l-Ut folM ima' ej\- withou' damage to l!;e -hilt. 
 Tiie !,;:rroW lalie- Otiellinu ill the ice made it iiio'll 1 1 o, -r.^-a r\'
 
 CAPTAIN M'CLUllE l.")l 
 
 to retrace their course, but by the 2L-t of August they had 
 passed the mouth of the Mackenzie Pdver, and made tlie 
 Felly Islands. 
 
 Upon reaching Warren Point, natives were se(>n on shore, 
 and Captain Al'Cdure, desiring, if ])ossible, to send des])atches 
 by them to the Hudson Bay Company's p(jst.- on the 
 Mackenzie, the l)oats \\'(n-v. ordered out. 
 
 It was found tliat these Eskimos had no communication 
 with the Mackenzie, being at war with the neighbouring tribes, 
 and having had several skirmishes with tho Indians of that 
 ([uarter. A chi(^f of tli(> tribe had a flat brass butt(jn sus- 
 })ended from his ear, and in explanation of where h(> got it, 
 he re|)h('d: '"It had been taken from a white? man, wlio had 
 been killed by one of Ins tribe. The white man belonged to a 
 ))arty which had landed at Point "W'tirren, and tlier(> built a 
 house ; n()])ody knew how they came, as they had no boat, 
 but tlu^y went inland. The man killed had >trayed from the 
 ]KU'ty, and he (the chief) and his M)]i had buficd liim upon a 
 hill at a littl(> distance." It could not l)e asceitained ju<t 
 \v!i(ii llii:- ( v('!it occui'i'cd. and though Ca])tain .M'Clure 
 tried to inv(^-1igate the matter, only two very old v.'C/odcn huts 
 wcj'c found, ;uid no grave (jf the white m;m was rli>(Mj\-er(Ml. 
 
 Natives vcre coustantl}' encountered as the I nrtstigdlirr 
 proceeded, and though they seemed at first lio-tiie and 
 di.-inclined to ojXMi eonnniniieation, the\' invari^ibly became 
 fi'i(-ndly and gratefiill\- acc('i)ted the vari(jus ])resents !)est(jwe(l 
 upon them. 
 
 Hm Se])ti'!nbei' .1, ('ai)tai!i AFClure writes: — 
 
 '"The v,-eat!ier. which had been squally. acc()m]")anied by 
 a thick fog duihig th(^ early i)art of the da>', cleared towards 
 noon, when a lai'ge \'olume oi smoke WcC- oh)-(-i'\-eil about 
 
 tweh'e miles south-we<t \> divei's o])inion< were in 
 
 circiihition re-]iect ini;: it- ju'obable cause, and the i:'e-iiia.te 
 ha\'ing ]>ositi\-ely re])orte(l ihat fr(;m tlie crow's nest h(- could
 
 l')!^ 
 
 TiiK Gin: AT w'lirri: yoirrii 
 
 (list iiiu'uisl! several ])('i's()iis nioviiiii' ahout. dressed in white 
 shirts, and observed some white tents in (he liollow of the 
 elitf, I cei'tainly had ev(M'y reason to iniaii'ine they were a ])arty 
 ol' lOurojxnins in (list ress, eonx'ineed that no travellers would 
 remain for so lonii; a ])eriod as we had remai'ked t he smoke. l'"or 
 their ])leasure, therefore, to satisfy myself, e(iually as other>, 
 I determin(^d to send a boat on shore, as it was now (•.•dm. 
 The fii-sf what(^-!)oat ,■ undei- Lieutenant ( "resswell, with Dr. 
 Armstron,ii', and Air. Miertschini;,-, was despatched to examine 
 into the cause, who, on their I'eturn, reported the smoke to 
 emanate from fifteen small mounds of \-olcanic a])peai'anc(% 
 occupyiii.ti :i space of about fifty yai'ds. the place sti'on!j,ly 
 impreiiiiated with sulplnu'. the lower mounds beinu' al>()ut 
 thirt\' feet above the sea-level, the hi.uhest about fifty feet. 
 ddi(> land in its \'icinit>' was blue clay, nnich intersected with 
 i'a\'ines and dvvp watei'-coui'ses, varyina,' in elex'ation troiii 
 thi'ee hundred to five hundred feet. The mark of a reindeer 
 was traced to a small pond of water immedialely ;i!)o\"e th(^ 
 mounds. Notice of our ha\'in,u' landed wc.s left, which would 
 not lon^' remain, as the clilT is e\-idenlly crumblinLi,' aA\'ay. 
 d"hu- the my>tei'\' of th(> white shirts and tents was most 
 sal i>faclorily exi)lained." 
 
 i'iai'ly ill the moi'nini!; of the ()th of September they wei'O 
 off the small i-laiids near ('ape Parr\' ; on the smne day hiu'h 
 land Was ob-ei'\-ed on th(> port bow. I'p to this tiin(> they 
 had been sailini!; alonti; a sliore which had been sur\'eyed by 
 lV;mklin. Mack. ])ease. Simpson. ;md others, ahhouiih theirs 
 w;i- the fii'st .^/iij) that had sailed in I he>e watei'-. 
 
 The di-c()\-cry of new tei'ritoi'y was t hei'efoi'e joyfully re- 
 c<'i\'i'd. amh hmdiu'j; in the wliale-!)o;il and cultei'. i'oi'mal 
 ])i )--i'--i()ii w:i- t;ikcn in the n;nne of "llci' Mor~! (Iracious 
 M;iji'-ty'" ;iMd t!ic Miimc " iK-ii'inu'- I-l;ind'" bc-idwed upon it 
 in hi lUMMi' i^\ 1 lie 11 r- 1 liM'd di' the Ad mi rah y. Af; ei' deposit in<j; 
 a i'('ciir( L t hey I'd unuMl id i he -hip and >ailcd aloni:,' t he easld'n
 
 CAPTAIX m'clure 153 
 
 coast, as it was more free of ice than that on the west. Later 
 it was found that the island was one whose extreme north- 
 (^astern shore had been faintl\' seen by Parry in 1S20 and given 
 l)y liim the name of "Banks' Land."' 
 
 "We observed/"' writes Captain ALC'hu-e, "'numerous 
 ti'aces of reindeer, hare, and wihl-fowl : moss and (Uvers 
 s])ecies of wild-fiowers were also in great abundance ; many 
 si)ecimeiis of them, (equally as of the object of inter(\st to the 
 naturalist, were selected with much care by Dr. Armstrong. 
 From an elevation obtained of al)OUt five liundred feet, we 
 had a fine view towards the interior, which was well clotluMl 
 with mos-, giving a verdant appc^arance t() tlu^ ranges of hills 
 that rose graduall}' to between two thousand and three thou- 
 sand feet, inters(H'ted with ravines, which must convey a co- 
 })ious sup])ly of water to a large laki.' situated in th(^ centre 
 of a wide j^lain, about fifteen miles (Ustant ; tlie sight to sea- 
 ward was favotn'able in the extreine : open water, with a very 
 small ([uantity of ice, for the distance of full forty nnles 
 towards the east, insured good pr(.)gre<s in tliat direction. 
 The W(\ither l)ec(_)ming foggy, our lead was the (jnly guide un- 
 til ten A.M. of t!ie 1)1 h ; it then cleared for a short time, when 
 land was (_)bs(n'\-e(l to the eastwai'd, about fifteen miles distant, 
 (Wtendinti to the northward :is far us the eye could reach. 
 
 " The mountains in the iiUerior are hjfty and snow-covered, 
 while the low groimd is (juitc^ free. Severed \'ery remark- 
 able i^eaks wei'e d.iscernible, a!)])arently of \'()lcanic origin. 
 This discovery was named i^rince Albei't's Land. Tlu^ wind 
 becoming fair, and the weather cleai'ing. all the <tudding sails 
 were >et . with the liope of reachinu' Ijai'r<nv"< Strait, from 
 v/hich we were now di<lanl about seventy mile^. The wa.ter 
 Was tolerably clear in that dii'ecliou, although much ice was 
 l\'iu<i a'j.';'aii-t the wcstci'ii laud : . . . much loo-'' ice \va< a,!-o 
 in motion, and while eiideavoi'inu' to I'un between two floe<. 
 at tlie rate of four knots, they cIoscmI so ra])idl\', ou'' u])on
 
 l-")4 THE CHEAT WHITE XOTiTlT 
 
 citlu^r l)eani, lluit our \\'a\' w;i.- instantly .st()])]i('(l, and tlio vos- 
 .<('! lifted (■()nsidc)'a!)ly ; in this jjosition we AVcrc retained a 
 ([Uai'tei' of an hour, when ! lie ])re,->ure eased, and we ])r()('eeded. 
 Our ad\';uiee w;is of >hort (hu'alion, as at two p.m. the wind 
 suddenly >hiftc(l to the noillicast. and l)(\ii,;ai to f!'e>hen : the 
 water, which a few liour.- ])!'evious had excited san.uuine ho])es 
 of a ^u'ood I'un, became soon so thickl}' studded with floes, 
 that ;d)oul four p.ai. there was scarcely sufhcicut to keep the 
 ship [v(^vt.\ ; x\\\> hy mueh exerti(/n v,as hi>wever effected until 
 two A.M. of the Mill, when we wei'e heset."" 
 
 l'"i'oni no\\' on. hafllinu' winds and iin]><Mietral)le floes made 
 ])roiires- ahnost inii)()>sil)le. ddie total destruction of the 
 Iiir< sltijiilni' was daily tlu'eaterK^l ])y the I'ushes of ice that 
 assailed them in the nai'row strait along which they werc^ 
 endea\"ourii!SA to proceed. 
 
 On the 17ih of Sei)teml>er, '''ldier(' were se\-eral heav\' floes 
 in the \'icinily; one, full six miles in length, jjassed at the 
 rate- of two knots, ci'ushing e\'erything that ini])ede(l its prog- 
 ress, and grazed oui' stai'hoard how. Fortunately, theix' 
 wa- hut young ice upon the oppo-ite side, whicji yielded to 
 the i;re--ure; l;ad it othei'W!->e occurred, the \-(.'--el must 
 ine\'il ahl.v liaA'e heen (Ml! asunder. In tlu^ afternoon, we se- 
 cur(Ml to a modieralely >i/e(l ])iece. drawing eiglu fatlioms, 
 whicii appeared^ to offer a lair rei'uge, and from which we ne\'er 
 afterwai'd- parted." 
 
 ddi('-maHe-t p,ool-. now l)e(-;mie c()\-ered with ice; the la-t 
 Ai'-'lie liird t(> iaki> lliglii wa- the eidei'-duck, whieh turnedi 
 -i>ui!i !).\' the L'iJd. I'y ihe iTili of Septein'her the tJKa'mom- 
 '•;e:' -loiid a! z.-ro, a!id e\'ery prejiai'ai ion wa^ lieinsi: made 
 to Lon-i' the >hip for lli" \eiMter, Tiie ice wa- iu con-lant 
 and \"ii tjcnl mo; ion. '" Tiie (a'u-hiiiu', ci'e.akimi., :>])'] -I r.anhni';.'" 
 \\!'ec< (':,|:,!:iin M'ohn'e. "1- !)(>\-ond de-cript ion : iheoflieer 
 of '\i'^ \\':i oil. N'/lion -Mc:il;in;i' lo me, i,- obliged to put hi- mout li 
 eio-.- to m\' ear, ojn ac"(»iuit of t!ic deafeninn,' noi.-e."'
 
 CAPTAIX m'vlure 155 
 
 Cliiiiiiny; with tli(^ "tenacity of a bosom-friend" to tlie ice- 
 floe to whicii lhe\' were secured, "it convevtMl us,'' continues 
 MX lure, '"to our fanhest northeast ])osition, latitude 73° 
 V nortli, I(jn,ii,itude 117° 10' west, back round the Princess 
 Pvo^'al Island.-, })assed tlie larfi;est witliin five hundred yards 
 to latitudi" 72° 42' nortli. lon<i-itude 118° 42' west, returning 
 along the coast of Prince All)ert"s Land, and finally freezing 
 in at latitude 72° oO' nortli, longitude 117° o.V west, upon the 
 oOth of Se])tenil7(>r. during wliich circumnavigation we 
 r(H'eiv(Ml many se\-ere ni])s, and wer(> fi'Cfjuently driven close 
 to the shore, from which our deep friend kei)t us off. To 
 avoid >eparation, we had secured with two stre;;ni-cables, 
 one cliain, two six, and two fi\'e hawsers. As our exposed 
 positicjn render(Ml e\-ei'v ])recaution nece-sary, we got up(jn 
 deck twelve months' ])rovisions, with tents, warm clothing, 
 etc., and i.-sucd to each jiei'son a ])air of cari^et-lxjots and a 
 blank(i-bag, so that in the e\'ent of an\' emergency rendering 
 it iin])erati\'e io {juit tlie vessel, we might n(jt be destitutes 
 ( )n the Sth (h' October, oxiv i)e]'])lexit ies terminated with a nip 
 that lifle(l tlie ^-e><el a fo(A, and heeled hei' 1° t(; port, in con- 
 Sv'(|uence of a lai'ge tongtie getting beneath her. in which ]^osi- 
 tion we (]ui(-tly remain(Ml.'' Here the J nn.^l/fjdtor passed the 
 winter of IS.K) dS.jl, during which season a joui'iu'y was made 
 over the ice to the ,-hores of Bai'row Strait, which tliey found 
 connected with the strait in which they wintered, thus estab- 
 lishing the fact of a northwest passage. 
 
 d'he j(.)ur!iey undertakrm on tlie nioniiitg of ( )ctob(a' 21, 
 1S.')(), cumc near ])i'o\'iiig fatal to ('a])tain AIX 'lure. ( )n the 
 j'cturn ti-ip Li week la^er ab(jut 2 p.m. one afternocm. ha\'ing 
 seeji the Priiice^s lioyal Isles and kiKjwiiig tlie ])ositi()n of the 
 shi]), lie decid"d to ie;ive liis sledge and i)U>h ahead, that a 
 warm meal miii'ht b(> made read}' for tlie re>t of tlie ])arty 
 ui)on tlifir arrival at the ship. Xight ove-i'took liim Avhen 
 still at le;!>i six miles from tlie ves-el. and a ileii-e mi>t, ac- 
 (•((lupanied by liea\'y snow, ob.-ctn'ed e\'ery objiH't.
 
 Tin: <:UF..\T wiiiTK yoirni 
 
 "I now." w'l'itcs .M'( 'lui'i', " chiuhc'l on a mass of sciufczcd- 
 U!) ice. ill l!ic hope of >ci-iim- liiy pai'tv. should l)ic\- pa-- near, 
 or of aUi'acTiiiii' the attcnlioii of -onic oih' (jii hoanl tin' vcs.-cl 
 1)\' firiii<j.' my fo\\iin,u-])iccc. Cnforl unatcly. 1 hail no other 
 ammiuiitioii ihaii whal it wa> loaalcd witli : fo!' I liad fancied, 
 w'iien I h'ft the -lediic, that two ehartics in tlie ^u'lin would be 
 all I >hould l»e likely lo requiic. Aftei' waJtiipu' foi' an lutur 
 |)al!('nliy, I wa< r('joicc(i to .-^cc throuuh the mist the ,ularin,u' (>! 
 a lilue li,t!,ht. ex'ideiitly huriit in the direction in which I had 
 left the >lc(!o'c. I immcijiaiely fir<-d to denote my position: 
 hut my fire wa.- unol)>er\'cii. and. both barrel- beinu' dis- 
 chai'.u'cil. I wa- unable to re])eat the siuiial. My onl}' ho])e 
 now rc-teil upon the >hip'> a.n-werinu'. I>u1 nothinu' wa- to be 
 .-I'cn : and. allhouiih I once more >a,w. at a .ui'eatcr di-tance. 
 tiic <^\nvc of aiiothei' i,luc liu'ht from the >1(m1l:,-c, there -eenied 
 710 probability of m\' ha\inu' any other .-heher for the niuht 
 than wiiat ihe floe atfol'iled. d'wo lioUl'- elap-edi ; I endeav- 
 ored to -(■(• the face of my pocket compa-- i)y the liu'lit ol a 
 .-olitary iucifer tnalch. which hapnened to bi' in my pocket: 
 but in thi- hope I wa- ci'ueHy di-aj)|)oinled. f(;r it fi/zed and 
 wiiit out. lea\'iim' me in total d:ui;iie-<. It wa> now half-pa.-t 
 ei'j,!ii : thei'e were ele\-en hour- of ihmht behu'e me. a teinpera- 
 tnre of 1") below zero, bear- pro\\"hn;i,' about, ami 1 with an 
 unloaded uuji in my h;iiid-. The -jed^e-part \' miulii. how- 
 (•\-er. reacli tlie -!:ip'. and. liiidinu' I had not arri\'e(i. search 
 Would lie made, and help be -ent : -o I walked to aipi fi'o u|)on 
 my liummock until. I -ujipo-e, it mu-t ha\'e bi'i'H e|e\-en 
 o'rioi-k. when t!:a; hope fjiil liki'Wi-e. l)e-cendiim' from the 
 
 top of tiie ~!;ib oi' ire UMoll wiucli I had chmibeivd. I lolUld UU- 
 
 di-r it- fe a fauiou- bed o!' -oft. i|ry -now: and thorouiihly 
 tiriMi oiit. [ tlii-'-w my-eh' upon it and .-lept for perhaji- three 
 hiiur-, \'.'(,eii. upMii op'iiinLi' m\' i->'e-. 1 faiieied I -aw tlie fla-h 
 ol' :: ''oeki'l. .b i ii 1 1 li n LI' Upon my feet. I fouinl that the mi-t 
 hcd rj, areij oil', ;md diat the -!,:ir- and aurora boreali- were
 
 BISCOVKRV OF THE SOIiTJIWEST PASSAGE l')l 
 
 shinin<2; in all the s])l('n(lor of an Arctic night. Althou<2;h unal)l(! 
 to sec the iskmcls or the ship, 1 wandered about tlie ice in 
 (hft'ercnt (hrections until daylij^ht, when, to my great morti- 
 fication, I found I had })assed the slii}) fuUy the cUstance of 
 four miles." 
 
 81(Hlge journeys along the shores of Baring Island an<l Princ(^ 
 Albert Land were muU^rtaken, but no trace of Franklin or 
 his party was discovered. Tracers of Eskimos were found, 
 but only one party met with ; however-, deer, nuisk-oxen, and 
 Ixnirs wen^ encounten-d. A bear was killed, and, when oj^x^ned, 
 its stomach was found to contain raisins, tobacco, ])ork, and 
 adhesive ])laster ! This extraordinary nuMlley led ('a])tain 
 ]\r'( 'hu'c to the conclusion that the Enterprise was in the vicin- 
 ity, and a dilig(>nt search was instituted, l)ut the only result 
 was th(> discovery of a ]ir(>sei-ve(l meat canister, whicli con- 
 taininl similar ai'tich-s, ])i'()!)ably the sjune from which tlu^ 
 bear had obt .-lined his unusual meal. By the VM\\ of June, 
 1S.~)1, all the sledge ])arties having ixiurncMl in saf(4\' to tlic 
 ship, (n-erything ^^'as made ready to s(>t sail the moni(Mit the 
 huge barriei's of ice sliould jiei'mit. 
 
 "The first indication of o])en watei',"' wi'ites r'a])tain 
 Al'diu'e, '■occurr(Ml to-day (.luly 7th) extending some dis- 
 tance along the shon^ of Prince AllxM't's Land, about a mik; 
 in width ; the ice in exvvy direction is so ra'pidly decaying, 
 b(>ing nuich acceleratcMl b}- sleet and I'ain, \\\\]\ the thermom- 
 eter standing at 1.")°, tliat, by tlu- Uth, thai which for the 
 last few days had been slightly in motion, with hni'ge spaces 
 of water intervening, suddenly and noiselessl}' oikmumI around 
 the vc^ssel, lea\'ing her in a jjond of foiMy yards: but seeing 
 no ])os->ibilily of gelling wilhoui its liniits, we \v<>re coni])eiled 
 to >e('ure to the fioe V\'hich had for ten monlhs befriended lis, 
 and, with tln^ W!i(»l(> of the jiack, gi-aduail\' d!'ifte(l to the 
 southwai'd, tow;u'd the Prin'/e-s Hoyal Islincl-,, which we 
 ])assed t.ui the ca>l(M'n >ide within hah' a mile.
 
 15S 
 
 TJiK (.iiKAT wiirri-: soirni 
 
 " r])()ii the 17tli. ;i1 10 A.M.. hciiiu ;nii()n,ii' l()t)^(■ ice. wo fast 
 off from the i!oc and made -ail. with lh<' hope of ^cuiu.u- ui)(ju 
 the wc.-tci'U ^hoi-c whci-c tiic water appeared to !)(■ iiiakini!,', 
 litil withoul .-liippiii^L;,' ihe rud_der. i!i con-efiueiice of heiiiLi; 
 iii the \aeiiiiiy ol' se\'e!\ai laru'c llocs, and at 2 i-.M. asiaiu 
 secured to li li(;(- hetwciii llie I'l'itice.-- i.'oyal and Iktriiii;- 
 i-landis 'we i)a.--(-d o\"er a ,-hoal liavini': niiieie('ii fatlioin-'. 
 ()ii the 201 !i. at !ialf-j)a>t ele\-en .\.M.. a liuiil air -];ran'.L' np 
 fi'oni the >oui liW<'.-l . which, ,-lackinu' the ice, a'ave hope- of 
 nialciii.u.' ])r(;,^i-(-.-.- to the northeast, in which (hi'ection 1 Vv'as 
 anxious to ,si'(-l fo!' the ])U!'])ose of en1ei'in;r liarroAV Sti'ait, 
 that, acciji'dinu' to circun!-tanc(-s, I nii.uht he enahled \() 
 carry out my oi'iuinal inteiilion- of ])i'ocee.liim to ihe north- 
 ward of Melx'iiif L-land, as detailed in my hto-r to the sec- 
 i'ei;u-y of the .Vdmii'ail \'. of July 20'. h"^-10 : or. >}iould -uch 
 noi 'he pi'aciicahli-. I'eluni io I'Jiuland th.'^ouuli ih(- sti'ait. 
 Ai'ler ni()>i pel -(■\-c!'ii)n' (-i'fori - to ];enetrate into I'ai'row 
 ^^1 rait . { ';;ptain .M"( lure A\-;i> oOli'^ed to aOandion tlie at trjupt . 
 ()!i the lf;th of Au'iU-t In- del ermii le^ 1 to co;i-t round the 
 W( -li'rn dinri'- of tjie i-1 uid and ];ia!:e lhe pa--a;ie, il' po>.dl>le. 
 1(1 diC nor; hwari i oi' IjaUK- h:ind. 
 
 ■• Al 4 a.M. (in ihe Is'h." he wrile-. "hi iuLT off a wvx !m\\- 
 
 ■i-il (,1 -Ma 
 
 I) 
 
 K'llen wtac], evtcuoi d to t!;e W('-!wari| 
 
 ler ahoul iweKe mii''-. in tl/' :Mi'm nt' a hoi'-e-hoe. ha\'- 
 inii' a -ea.-ide lliicfdy .-'ud.ihd wiih ^^roiuidid ii-c, wliih' ihe 
 inii-rior wa- •' xeuipt fi'om any. 1 M-nl Mr. ( 'ouri '-econd 
 m:!-l( V i to exaniin',' il, who ri-'porltfl ;ui excellent andi commo- 
 diou- harl:Mur. W( 11 -la-lii v<i\ frduu U(irdi-we~t oi -oiilh. '■;,rr\- 
 iii'_ fi-,'<' falhdUi- widiin len yard- of the hcac!!, \\-hich \''a-; 
 -'f.M'jf-. and i'o\'i'r('d ^,\a'h driliweod. A ,-"t nl -luhl- was 
 (Aaanid. and a ca-!;. coni cininii a notic-. wa- !■■;! th('re. 
 i i-i^i, ■':'• nid'iiim.; oi' A:'- 10; !i. ^^■e hv l!:i- ]..w r,,;,.i , and 
 ]>:!--iij 1,. ; \',-i -n ' \\-() -iM.ill id:iiiiA lyina ;)t li^e (■nli'.'UM-e of 
 v.'a.' -au-rU'd a d'''i) inl'-;. ruiii;ina ea-t— out h-e;a-l . and
 
 DISCOVKIIY OF THE yOJiTlIlVL'ST PASSA(;E 159 
 
 then turninp; sliar]) to north-cast. It liad a barrier of ice 
 cxtciKiiiii!; ao'oss, Avliich ])]vv(nit(\l tiny coimiiuiiication. 
 A\'isliin};' lo kccj) bc^twecn the iiortli(>riiinost of these ishuuls and 
 the mainhuul, to a\'oid the pack, whicli was ver\- nc^ar it, we 
 narrowly eseaixMl gettini>; on shore, as a re(^f extenck'd from 
 th(^ latter to within half a mile of the island. FortTmately, 
 tlie wind Ixunjz; lijihl, we rounded to with all tlu^ studdin<>;- 
 sails s(^t, and let ti'o the anchor in tAVo and a half fathoms, 
 liavin,!;- a.boul h/iir inch(>s lo s])ar(> un(l(M' the keel, and warped 
 into four, while Air. Court A\'as sent to find a channel in which 
 he succeedcHl, eari'vin;; Wwoc fathoms, Ihroutih which we ran 
 for oiK^ mll{\ and then continued our course in ciii,'ht, havins 
 from thi'(>e to five mil(>s l)(>tw(M'n the ic(^ and land. At 8 
 I'.M., we neared two (jtlu^r islands, th(> ivo restiua,' u])on the 
 wesKn'umost, upon which 1h(> j^i'cssm'c nu;st hav(> been (^x- 
 e(^<^i\'(\, as l;!ri2;(^ mass(^s w(a'(> foi'ccMl r,(\aiy over ils summit, 
 whicii was upvairds of forty feet. Ijctween thesc^ and the 
 juaiu W(^ ran throut;h a clianu(>l in from uine to fifteen fathoms, 
 A\-h(>u an iinmediate and mai'ked ch.an.iix^ took place in tlie 
 <i(Mieral a.])i)i^arance and foi'mation of the land : it became 
 hiii'h, ])recipit()us, st(a'il(>, and ru,'2,-si-ed : interseet(>d with deep 
 ra\in(\s aaid water course's, havin.u' six-fi\'e f;ithoms ad a fjuartia" 
 of a, mile, and {ii't(-en fathoms one hundj'cd yards from the 
 clilTs. wliicli ])roved exceedint;-ly fortunate as the whole ])ack, 
 wliich liaal api):u'<Mitly only just broken from tlie shor(\, was 
 ^^"i!hin half a, mile, and, in many ]d;!C(-s. so close to it, that to 
 a.void gettiria; b(>>ef, we had nearly to toucii \hc land ; irukn'd, 
 upon sever;d o('(';!siims, I lie boats were comjX'lled to be top])e(l- 
 U]), and ])oles n.se;i \o kvc]) \]\c V(\ssel o!f t!i(> <;'i'ounde(l ic(> ; 
 v.'hieh extcaids ;dl a'on,u' this eoiist : nor could we I'ound to. 
 tearful of cai'ryiny,- tlie jib-boom away a.'zainst the clirt's, 
 wliieh liere rim neai'lx' east and west. The cajjc t'oi'min.a; its 
 western extr(Mni' I lun'c called Prince Alfi'cd, in honour of 
 his RoA'al Ilidmess. On the morniu"; of the 20th, our fur-
 
 Isji.) 
 
 Tin: cm: AT white youTii 
 
 th(r ])r()iii'c>< v\';;s iiii])Cilc(l liv lindinir the ice rc-tinu" U])()n 
 ;i ])()iiit, which ini'iiicd a r-liu'ht iiidciitai ion of -hiorc, and was 
 the only ]dacc wiiri'c water could he >ci-\i. T(j ])i'('\'('nt bcinj^ 
 carried away with the ])ack. which was [illinji u]) its -i^acc, 
 wc >ccurc(l to the iii-hore side ol' a >niall hut hea\'y i)iece of 
 ice, ^ti'rounded in tweh'e fathoms >event\'-f()ur \'ards fi'oni 
 the beach- the only ])r(jtectio]i a^'ainst the tremendous 
 Polar ice >ettinu' a knot per hour to the eastward hefijre a 
 I're.-li we.-terly wind . which at i) p.m. ])lace(l u< in a \-ery 
 ci'itical ])o-ition. h\' a lariie floe striking the |)iec(> \ve were 
 fa>t to. and cau--iiui' it to oscillate s(j con>ideral)ly. that a 
 ton,uue which ha|)|)(-iie<l to he tnider otu' Ixjttom. lifted the 
 ve->el -ix feet ; liul. 1 >y u'reat attention to the anchors and 
 warn-, v.'e -uccceileil in holdinu' on durin,<r the c(_)nflict, which 
 wa> coutimieil -evcral minutes, tei'minat in.U' l>y the flo;' 
 heinu' rent in i)iec!'s. and our liein,<i dri\'en nearer tlie heach. 
 h'rom thi- tmtil the 2!Mri, we la\' ])erfectly >ecure, but at 
 S A.M. of that day. the let- licLian -uddeuly to mo\-e, when a 
 lariie floe, that mu-t ha\'e cauulit the piece to which we wei'e 
 atlachi'd undei' one of it- o\'ei'hanuiiUi led^e-. rai-ed it j)er- 
 ])eniiicular hy thirty lect. ])ri'-enTiim' to all on hoaril a mo-t 
 tViuhtful a-p"ct. A- it a-cended ahox'e the foi'i-yard. mtlcll 
 ai)p.rehfn-ion wa- f'-lt. that it miuht he thrown comjjletely 
 
 o\'er, when the >l;ip mu-t ha\'e lieeli c!'U>hed lieueatll it. 
 Thi- -ir-jicn-e Wa- hut fill' a few niiliut I ■-, a- i he fioe i-i'Ut . cai'l'>'- 
 iiiii a'.v::y wuli ii a laruc jjicc from the found.alidii nf nur 
 ;!-\iinn. wiieii it iiavr M'\'('ral fcarl'ul roll-, ami re-uniiMl its 
 tunnel' p(i-i'ioi!: hut. no lom:ci' capahle of I'c-i-ium the 
 pri --lu'c. i; Wa- hu!-'-ii'd onward with t Im' drift ini:' ma--. Our 
 [irnviiiiiye • ■ i i !:r -h' i>v < ■()!!! pi 'II i -d. a- i uir i inly hi i] h'- • if .-afi'ty. 
 thf al'-:ilu'i' ni'''i'--!iy of hi'ldiuLi- In it : we ron-ei |Uent Iv 
 -i'i-!U''d Willi a I'lciln. -Iri'am and hi'Uip c,a!ili\ three, >i\, 
 
 aU'l ; wm fl 
 ii . In t !,: 
 
 naw-rr-. Itu'i'i' lit which wr!v pa--<Ml I'ouiiil 
 Wr Wiav fiifrid aliiU^-. -inkinu' \:iV<J.r piece-
 
 nisrovEHY OF riiE yoimnvEsr passage IGl 
 
 IxMioatii tlic bottom, and ?;ustuinin<2; a heav\' strain against 
 the stem ami fiKldcr ; tlie latter was nnich (lania<ic(l, hut 
 to nii>hi]) it at ])r('S('nt was ini])ossil)l('. At 1 p.m., tlu; 
 ])rc>sure cased, from tlu^ ice Ijeeoming stationary, wluai it 
 ^\■as unliim.u' and laid ui)on a large floe ])iece, where, by S p.m.. 
 owing to the activity of Mr. Ford, the carpentcn-, who is 
 always readx' to meet any emergency, it was repaired, just as 
 the ice began again to \)v in motion : but as the tackles 
 were li(_)oke<l, ii was I'un U]) t(j the davits witliout further 
 damage." ( "ontinuing liis exciting narrative, (.'aptain AFClure 
 writes : — 
 
 " ^A'e w(>i'e now setting fast u])on another large picM'c of a 
 bi'oken floe, grounded in nine fathoms u])on the debris 
 forme(l at the mouth of a large ri\-er. Feeling confident 
 that. >hould we be caught between this and what we wei'e 
 fast to. the shi]) nuist ine\'itably go to ])ieces. and yet Ix'ing 
 awai'c that to cast off would certainl\' sc^nd us on the beach 
 (from which we were n(>ver distant eighty yards). u])on which 
 the -mallei' ice was hurled as it came in contact with th(-se 
 gi'ounded masses. I sent John Keri' (gmmer's mate) under 
 \-er}' difiicuh cii'cumst;inces. to endeavor to reach it and elfcct 
 it> de>tructiou by bla-ting ; he could not, however, find a 
 sufficient >])ace of water to sink the chai'ge, but remarking 
 a large caN'ity i!])on the sea face of the floe, he fixed it thei-e, 
 which -o far -uci'ccdeil. that it slightly fraetui't'd it in three 
 ])lace-, \\-!iich.. at the moment was -carcely obser\'able. from 
 the hea.\'\' ])r'— ->Mre it wa< su-taiuiug. T)\' thi~^ time, the 
 \-e<sel was within a f(>\\ feet of it, and every one was on declc 
 in anxiou- <u-pen>e. .await inu' what was a]")])arently the crisi-; 
 ol' our fate : mo-t forttmately. the -tei'U ])o.-t 1o()k it m) fairly, 
 that 1 he ])res-ure \\-;i- fore and aft . briiminii' tlie v»iiole st renu'l h 
 of the >hip to bc:ii'. a hea\">' grind, which -hook e\aa'\' ma-t. 
 and ean-ed beam.- and declv- to c()inph-iin. a- s!ie tn-mbliMl to 
 tl!(' \'iolence of the .-hock. i)lainl\' indicated that the struii'uie
 
 l&I 
 
 THE <;reat white yoirrif 
 
 \\()ul(l he l)Ut of sh(ji1 duration. At this iiioincnl , the sti'caiu- 
 caldc was carricMl a\\'a\', and scx'cral anchor.- diX'W ; tliinkiu,<i' 
 that w'c had now suihcicntlx' risked th(; v('»(-I, order.- were 
 j:ii\-en lo let go the warps, and with that oi'der I had made 
 up ni\' mind that in a lew miinites she \\-()uld ite on tlie 
 l)ea<'h ; hut, as it was .-loping, e()neei\-ed she miuht .-~li!l 
 ])ro\'e an a.-\'hnn lov the winter, and ])os>il)]y he a,uain u'ot 
 afloat; while, .-hould she he crushed l)etwe(ii t hoe lai'U'e 
 jii'oimded pieces, .-he mu-1 inevitahlx' ,U() d.()\\-!i in ten i'lahoms. 
 ^vhich would he certain destruction to all: hut hiefoi'c the 
 or'lers could he oheyed, a merciful Pro\'idence inteipo-ed, 
 cau.-iuii: the ice, which had pi'e\'iou>ly \veak'eiie(l, to -e])ai'ate 
 into three pieces, and it floated onward with the mass, our 
 sliTii .-till li,'j,htly jammed against, hut no\\' ])rotected hy it. 
 The \-e,--eh which had heen thi'own o\'er fifteen de^'ree.-, atid 
 I'i.-en hodily one foot ei^'ht inches, now rijihti'd and settle*! in 
 the Water; the only dama.U'e sustailKMl was se\"eral .-heet- of 
 C()])pei' ripped off ;uid rolled Uj) like a sheet of ])aj)ei', hut not 
 a fa-teniuLi; had ,tii\'en way. noi' does any leaka^u'e indicate the 
 sli,ii.hte-t defect. ]]y midniuht, the ice wa< .-t at ii)Uar\'. and 
 e\'eryt!iiii,!j; (|uie1, which continued, until the lOlh of Se|)tem- 
 hei' ; indeed, fi'om the tempes'ature ha\'i!i,U' fallen to sixteen 
 deL!.i'e<'-, with all a])pearance of the .-ettintr in ot' the wintei-, 
 I con.-idered our fai'iher prou'rc-.- -toppeil until next y(-ai'." 
 
 I'nlll the end of S''])temhe!', iiirii' eoui'-e u'a- one ini- 
 \'ai\\'inu' .-cene of hiittliim' au'ain-t dillicullie- >imilai' to tl.n-e 
 iu.-l de-ci'ihed. Ha\-inu' r<'ached the we-tern e\treni|ity of 
 l';inks h:in(l. •■ 1 determined,"' write- ('aptain M'('h;!'e, 
 ''III m;iki' ihi- (»ui' winter fjuai't ^-r-. and, haxini;' rem.-ii'kcil 
 upon tlie .-outli ,-ii|c of the hanlx on which W'' had uroundi'd, 
 a welj-pn iti-cicil tia\-. Mr. ( 'ourt wa- ( |e-p;!i chc( | lo -amid 
 il : ;ini|, .-horlly makimi' tin' -i^n;il there W;i- -lifhrii^nt watei', 
 \vr liore up, and at t'l )ri y-fi\-i ' mimitc-: pa-i 7 \.M. u'e 
 anchored in I'oiU' and a hall' lalhoms. and that niuht were
 
 ])I>:C()VEnY OF THE yORTllWEST PASSAGE H'>-] 
 
 fii'inly frozen in, in what has since proved a most safe and 
 excellent harbor, which, in si'deful reni(nn])i'ance of tlie 
 nuuiy ]ierils that we had (\sca])ed (huiniu; the ]xissage of that 
 terrible Polar Sea, we have named tlie 'liay of 2^Iercy' ; thus 
 finally terminal ina; this short season's operations, having 
 been actually only five entire da_ys under way." From now 
 on ever\' ])i'(>])aration was made to spend the winter as com- 
 fortably as conditions would admit." 
 
 "As therc^ ;i])])ear(>(l much <iam(> in \hv vicinity," writers 
 Ca])tain ATC'lm-c^ "and tlic weatlu^r continu(>d mild, shoot- 
 ing ])arti(^s wei'e establish.ed in diiT(>rent directions l)(d^^'(Mm 
 tlie *Jth and 2od of Octobei- ; so that, with what was killcMl 
 fi'om the shi]), our su])"ply of fresh ])ro\'isions at the connncMice- 
 mcMit of the winter consisted of niuiC^ de(M-, fifty-thi'c^e hares, 
 and h)rty-four ])tai'mi,iran, all in line condition, the fonner 
 havina,' fi'om two to thre(> inclies of fat." 
 
 "In cons(Hiu(MiC(» of our favoixnl ])osition," h.v continm^s, 
 "th(^ cr;nv were enabled to I'iunble ov(>!' the hills almost dail_y 
 in ([U("st of gam(\, and th.eir ex(M'tions ha])])ily su])])lie(l a 
 fresh meal of venison three times a fortnight, with the excep- 
 tion of about thre(> weeks in Januaiy, when it Avas too dark 
 h)r shooting. The small game, such ;is ]^tarmigan and har(\s, 
 hieing scarce. v,-(>i-e allowe(l to be I'etained by the s])ortsni(Mi 
 as private property. This healthy and exhilarating (>xei'cise 
 k(>pt us all well and in excellent s])irits during anotluM' te- 
 dious winter, so that on tlie Jst of April we hade U]nvards of 
 a thousand ])ouiids of -vejiison hanging at tlie yai'd-arins." 
 
 Tilt- exciting ex]MM'ience of S(M'geant W'oon, a marin(\ 
 A\'iiile out hunting, is intei'esnng. \Mii!(> piu'suing a wound(-d 
 de(M', he suddenly and uuexiiectedlx' met ;i cou])le of musk- 
 bulls, which lie suj'ceed(Ml in Avoundiiui. Infuriated with 
 ])ain. on(- of the musk-oxen rusiied towards liim. Ihiviug 
 e\])ended h.is .-;hot. ihe serg(>ant i'wvi] his "Avorm" at th(^ 
 animal, but, this having linle or no eilect, tlit; bull, though
 
 ]<;4 
 
 TIIK (iliEAT WIIITK .XORTU 
 
 W(>ak('n(Ml from tliv loss of hlood, when witliiii six f('(^t, put 
 his liead to ilic ^•I'ouiid as if for a final rush. With ([uick 
 action the s(M'^(^aiit fired his iron ramrod, which, cutcrin*^ 
 behind the animal's left shoulder, ])ass(Ml throu,<i,h the heart 
 and out at the rit;ht flank, dro])i)in^' him lifeless. 
 
 On another occasion, the })resence oi mind of Ser,i;'eant 
 AVoon saved the hfe of a com])ani(jn, a coloui'ed man and 
 member of the crew. It was in January and bitterly cold; 
 the coloured man had been out huutinji and lost his way. 
 He heji'an to fancy himself frozen t(.) death, and from sheer 
 f(>rror lost his wits. The sei'.ti-eant met liim. but could not 
 induce tlu^ ])ooi' h'Uow to follow him. ddie coloui'ed mau 
 stood dazed and shivei'in,!;', and finally fell in a fit. A\'aitin<^ 
 until he was somewhat r(>viv(M!, the sei',<;'eant eithei' cari'ied 
 or rolled him down hills or hummocks for ten l()n.i;' hours, 
 until h(^ ,uot him within a mile of tlie shij). The serucant 
 was by this time t horou,ii,hly exhausted and trie(l to persuade 
 the n(\u,i'o to walls, biit the ])oor demented ei'eatui'e only 
 be<i',ii'ed to be "let alone to die." l)eiu,t;; unable to ])ersua(le 
 liim, the only thin_ii,' left was to ])lace him in a bed of deep 
 snow, and then, with all his r'emainin^ii; st ren,i;1 h, t he sei',u'eanf 
 hastened to the slii|) for assistance. Ivelurnin;;' as soon as 
 ])o>-il)le to the sjx)! whei'e the poor neuro had been left, they 
 found him \y'\\\\ his arms si iff and rai--ed ahox'c his head, his 
 eye- open, and his moulh >o hi'mly fi'ozfii tliat it i'e(|uireil 
 considei'able foi'ce to open it and pour down i'e>torat i\('-<. 
 lie -till ii\-ed, ho\\-e\-er, and eNcntually reco\'ered, with no 
 more serious i'(\-ults than I'ro.-t -bites to his haiub, feel, nnd 
 face. 
 
 The -ccoiid ('hi'i-tma- was pa<s(>(| cheei'Tully and with a, 
 bom 1 1 ('Oil- supply of u'ood t hinus. "A- it wa- lo be our last ," 
 Wl'ilr- (■;ip1;iiM .Ab('luri', ■"the (TcW del ( I'Mli I led to ni;ikc it 
 m'Miior.-iblc. ;iiii| llii'ir exei'tion- weri' coiiipletely succe<>ful ; 
 each mo.- wa- ua\i\- illu.niliiat cd ami deeorated with oi'i<;inal
 
 hlHCOVEUY OF THE .XOHTJIWEST rAssA(;E 1(;5 
 
 paiutin.n's by oiir l(>\v(M--(l('rk artists, cxhibitin.i;' the shij) in 
 her ])('ril()us ])()siti()iis dui'in^ the transit of the polar sea, 
 and ili\'rrs other subjcM'ts ; but the <2;ran(l features of the 
 (lay \vei'(^ th(^ enormous iihnn ])U(l(lin^u;s (some \vei<i;hing 
 twenty-six ])oun(lsj, ha,uneh(\s of venison, hares roasted, and 
 so!i]) made of tlie same, with ptarnii.(>:an and sea pies. Such 
 dainties in suc!i ])rofusion I should imaii,'in(.^ never before 
 gi'aced a shi])"s 1(.)\v(M' deck ; any strange^-, to hav(^ witnessed 
 the scene, could i)Ut faintly imagine that he saw a crew which 
 had i)assed upwards of two years, in these dreary re<rions, 
 and tlu'ce (aitirely u|)on their own I'csources, enjoyin<2; such 
 excellent health -' so jo\'ful, so ha])])y ; ind(>ed, such a 
 mii'thful assembla.ii'e, mider any circumstances, would be 
 most ,<iratifyin.<i' t(^ any officer ; but in this lonely situation, 
 1 could not but feel dee]il\' im])r(\ss('d as I cont(>ni])lat(Ml the 
 gay and plenteous sight, with the many and gi'eat merci(\s, 
 ^\'hich a kind and ben(^fic(Mit l^rovidence luid extended 
 towards us, to whom alone is due the heai't-felt i)raises as 
 t haiik-gi\'ings of all for the great blessings which we hav(^ 
 hitherto experienced in ])ositions the most desolate which 
 can be <'oiicei\'ed."' 
 
 In the autunm of IX.l'i, Cajitain A["("lure had made known 
 his intentions of >ending to J-Jigiand, the following sjjring. 
 half of the ohicei's and crew ri(i Piaffin Bay (taking the l)oat 
 from ( 'aj)e S])eneer) and the Alackenzie. The I'cmainder of 
 tl'.e crew v.cre to stand by the shi]) in the h()])e of releasing 
 her in the summer of iSo;!, should they fail in this thc^y would 
 ])roceed ^\'itll sledges in ]S~)[ by Port Le()])ol(l, '■c)ur ]:)i'()vi- 
 sions admitting of no other arran.gement." In the de- 
 s])atch ])]-epared by ("a])tain APClm-e which he s(Mit home by 
 the land i)ai'ty in ]>^')'.\. occurs the follovv'ing ])assage : — 
 
 "SluMild an\- of her Majest\''s slii])s be sent for oui' relief, and 
 we lia\'e (luitted Port Leo))o]d. a notice containing informa- 
 tion of oui' route v^'ill l)e left on tlif> door of the hou-e at
 
 iiit; 
 
 TIIK GREAT WHITE yoUTLL 
 
 Winder's Point, or on some (■ons])i{'uous position. If, how 
 ('\-('r, n(j iutinjiit ion sliouM he founil (jf oui' !i;ivin,L!, l)('(-n tlicrc, 
 it ni;iy ut (nice !)(' surnii-cd that sonic fatal catastroi)h(' lias 
 ha])|)('n('(l. cither j'rcjiii oui' hein^u; carried ijito the Polar Sea, 
 or smashed in Jjarrow's Strait, and no survi\'ors left. Jf such 
 he the case, — which, h(jwe\'er, I will not anticipate, --- it 
 A\'ill then Ix.' (luite unnecessary to j)enetrate fuither to the 
 westward for our relic!', as. Itv the jjeriod that an\' ve>-el 
 could reach that i)ort, we must, from want of prcn'ision-, all 
 liave ])('rished. In such a case, I would submit that the 
 ofhceis may he dii'ecie(l to return, and l)\' no means incur tii(3 
 daiui^'r of lo-in^ other li\'es in (luest of tho-e who will then 
 be no more.'' 
 
 The thrillin,u' advent ui'cs in the American wilderness told 
 by I'h'anklin, Richardson. P^ack, and others. for(-lold that this 
 sledu'e journey ])ro])o>ed Ity APC lure would be \r,\\z and 
 hazardous in the extreme, ddie weakci' one- wei'e to under- 
 take it, thirty of the healthiest men bein.i^' i-etained lo >tand 
 b\' th(" ships with the captain. 
 
 Idle cur.-e of scur\'y had lonii: since stfickcii many of the 
 crew: the-e could not hope to bra\'(- anoliiei' Arel ic wint er, 
 and their only chance was to penetrate the wiMerne-- lo 
 ci\-iliza1 ion. howex'cr diflicailt and. danucri»us the imdert afiiitH'. 
 P)Ul while Ar( 'hu'c and hi- uallani enmrades were mal^in'j; 
 e\'ery [)reparation for thi- la.-' at'euipt lo communieale 
 with luiLiia.nd, relief came unex])ecledl\' \o hand. 
 
 It will be I'cmeniberf'd. th.at ('aptain I\e||ctl of Sir Ivlward 
 I'.eleher'- -(|Ua<l|-!)n h.ad s.iijcl the pre\aoiis Vuu'U-t to Mel- 
 \-ille l-l;md wiih reliei' sujiplics foi' the I iin .-<! nji ih ,r and ./: ," 
 1 1 r jir'i.i . in ea-e l !ic-c \-e-scl-: or nieml icr- of t heir ei'ew- -honld 
 i:a\-e -'lerccilcd ill mckim': tlieir wa\' from I>ehr;nii' Sti'ail 
 li) that jijaec. I '} )on reae! linu' W'inl er I Iarl)our, 1 !;ey at onee 
 di-i'o\'eri d a iinlicc depo-ilcd th''re ilie I iciiiu U i nu' oi' the 
 \<:\V b\- ('antain .M'tliU'e. eon\"e\-i!m the a-.-Uf.ance ol' the
 
 CA P TA ly KE L L K TT 1 (J 7 
 
 safety of tlio Invcsliydtor and its crow in Mercy Bay. It may 
 1)(^ iina52,inc(l with what enthusiasm such news was rc^ceived 
 i)y Captain JveUett and liis crew, and innne(liat(4y pn^para- 
 tions w(M'e made for an expedition to let thcnn know that aid 
 was at hand. 
 
 The uniciue me(>tin,<2; of Captain M'Clure from the west, 
 and J.ieut(Miant I'im from th(^ east, A\ith a ])arty from \hv. 
 licsolutcj is ,t>,-rai)hically described in a i)rivate letter from 
 C'a])tain Ivellett. 
 
 "This is really a ]-ed-lett(n- da>' in our voyag(\, and shall 
 be kept as a holiday ])y our heirs and successors forev(M'. 
 At nine o'clock of this day, our lookout man madc^ thc^ signal 
 for a l)arty coniin<i in from the westward; all went out to 
 UKM't tlu>m, and assist tlunn in. A second party was then 
 seen. Dr. DomvilU^ was tht^ lii'st jicM'son I met. I cannot 
 describe^ my hH'iiniii's when he told mt^ that C;i])tain Al'Clun! 
 was ainonj;- the n(\\t i)art\'. I was not lon<2; in reachin<2; liim, 
 and si'iviu.a; him many h(>arty shak(\s - no purcM" W(a'(^ vvvv 
 ^•i'.'cn by two men in tlils woi'ld. AT'Chu'e looks weh, I)ut 
 is \-(M'y huu_i;'ry. ITis (lesci'i])tion of Tim's maldng t\\v Ilar- 
 l)our of Mcrey would h.ave ])ocn :i fiue subject for the pen of 
 (';iptain Marryat, wei'(> he aliv(\ 
 
 "ArChu't^ and his lii-si heutenant wnv w;).lkin<i' on the 
 floe. SeiTi!,!;' a person coining yvry fast towai'ds them, tlu'v 
 su])pos(Mi lio was eh.ased by a bear, or liad seen a beai". AA'alk- 
 luix towards hini, on .u'cttin.ti' onwards a hundi'ed yards, th.(\v 
 could see from his ])r()])or1 ions that he was not one of them. 
 I'im l)(\u-an to sereecli and throw u]) his hands (liis fac(> as bhick 
 ;is my hat i ; this brou,iiht the ca])taiii and Heutcaiant to a 
 stantb as they could not hear sufficiently to make out his 
 Ian, una lie. 
 
 '"At lenulli I'iin reached the ])art>', quib' b(\side himself, 
 and stammered out, on M'('lure asking' hitn, — 
 
 "'Wlio are vou, and where are vou come from?'
 
 it;,s 
 
 Tin: (;i;i:at wihtk yoirni 
 
 ''■Lieutenant Pini, IhrahL ( 'aptain Kellett.' 
 
 "'riii< was the more inex])lieal)le to MX 'lure, ;is T was tlio 
 last ])erson he >hook haml- with in Fichrinji's Strait, lie at 
 len,u,tli found that tliis solitar}' st ranjicr was a true l-ji^i^lisli- 
 nian - - an an,u('l of liii'ht. lie says : '\lv soon was seen from 
 the shi]) : they had only one hatrhway ojjen, and the crew 
 wei'e fairly januned there, in their enalea\"oi' to ,uct U]). The 
 sick jum])ed out (.)f their hammocks, and the vww foi'ji'ot 
 their de<])ondenc}' : in fact, all was chan.ii'ed on hoard tlie 
 ////7 stiiidfor.' 
 
 '"MX 'lure !iad thii'ty men antl three officers full>' ])re- 
 ])ai'e<l to lea\'e I'or the de])ot at Point Si)encer. What a dis- 
 appointment it would \m\c lieen to u'o thei'c and find the 
 mi-erahle Mnrij yacht, with t'om- oi' fi\'e ca.-k- of proxd- 
 sions. instead of a fine lai'<i(' dejxtt ! 
 
 "Anothei' ])arty of se\-en men were to ha\'e U'one l)y the 
 Mackenzie, with a i-e(iue-t to the Admii'alty to -end out a -hip 
 to meet them at Point Leopold, in 1^.11. 'V\\r thirty men 
 ai'e on their way o\'ei' to me now. 1 -hall, if i)o<-ilile, -end 
 tlieni on to P)i'ec}iey Ll.aiid. and ahout ten men of my own 
 vvrw. to lie taken home the fir-t o[)j)o!'l unit y." 
 
 ('aptain Lcllctt wa- at fii'-t iiic!in<'d io fa\'our M'('lui'e"s 
 effort- to -a\'e the ////v .-,'/'f/^//n/'. I mt , on t!ii' 2d of Ma\'. Lieu- 
 teiKint ( 're--well I'epoi't ed to ('aptaiu Kellett that two niol'e 
 di'ath- had occurred. It w;i- then deemed ad\a-:d)le thai 
 Dr. I)om\'!lle -hould u'o liacix with ('aptain .M'l'hii'c and 
 iu-p< ci the crew. Tlio-e unfitted to pa<.- anothei' vrinter 
 in the Arct ic \\-crc t (» he orders I home, and the he;ilt hy -nould 
 lie liix'en iheir optiiiii <il' Lioiiiii' o|- I'eniaiiiiic^'. Huly tuu!' uf 
 the cr('\\ wdv wiHiiiii' to I'eniain. althoUL!.ii all oi the ofiicers 
 \-nhml-i red iM -land hy I he \-c--c|. 
 
 I'rcoararK i!i- wciv l In Telmv made to ;ili;indMn ihe -hip. A 
 dep.it 111' piM\-i~i,iM- and -t.uv- wa- landed fm' l!ie ii-e of 
 ' 'el!in-i 'ii, Li-,aMkli:i, ( ir any ot hei' pi'i'-nn that niiuht find I hem,
 
 JJEA'III OF BKLL<)i l(iO 
 
 and on June '.I, ISoo, the colours were lioistcd to the masthead, 
 and officers and crew bade fareweU to tlie Iiivcdujatirr. Upon 
 arriving at Dealy Island, they were accommodated on board 
 the Ilcsolute and Intrepid 
 
 In connection with the glorious report of the discovery 
 of the Xorthwest Passage and the safety of Al'Clure, Captain 
 Inglefield brought home news of a sad and tragic character; 
 the deatli of tliat gallant Frenchman, Lieutenant Bellot. He 
 had r(>turn(Ml to the north in the Phxnix drawn by the fatal 
 lur(> of the Arctic which to liis adventurous soul was irre- 
 sistible. In August, 1803, he had volunteered to lead a party 
 to Sir Edward Belchcn-'s squadron near Cape Beecher in 
 A\'ellingto!i ( 'hannel. They started on a Friday, the 12th, 
 from ]^e(-chey Island, — Harvey, .Jolmson, Aladden, and Hook, 
 with Lieutenant Bellot in the lead, — carrying despatch(\s from 
 Ca])tain Pullen (jf tlie Xorfh Star. 
 
 The rottenness of the ice at this season makes travel ]iar- 
 ticularly dangercjus, and Bellot was cauticjned to keep close to 
 the eastern slujre of ^\'ellington Cliannel. Th(>y were ])i'(j- 
 vid(Ml with a light Lidia-rublx'r boat, which was easil}' 
 dragge(l iip(jn tlie sledge. The evening of the 12th. they 
 encamped aliout thi'ee miles from Cai)e Inn(\-. The follow- 
 ing day thc\' made considerable ])rogress, and that niuht 
 encam])ed u])on t he bi'oken ice, over which they had'])een ])lod- 
 diiig all day, near Cajx' ]^)Owden. On Sunday they noticetl 
 a crack al)out four feet wide rumiing across the channel. Xo 
 >])ecial concern was felt at this di-covery, and LieuTenant 
 Jiellot clie(>i'e(l and enc()urage(l the men to make foi- a ca]>e in 
 the di-tanc(> which he calleil Criimell Capo. J'pon i'(>aching 
 tliis (■;{])(', a bi'oad belt of water was found between t he ic(^ and 
 the >liore. An unfortunate wind I'aised a I'ough sea. but 
 Lieutenant l')ellot made an attem])1 to rearh the <h()re alone 
 HI the bo;it , intendinu' to co!i\-ey a. line by which th.e re- 
 mainder of th(> ])arty and pr()\'isions might be luHjught across.
 
 170 THE GREAT WJIFIE yORTII 
 
 The \-i(j!('ncc of the ,<i':ilc di'ovc liiin buck, and Harvoy unci 
 Araddcii were ordered into the hoal, and succcssi'uUy niad(; 
 the (•i-o>>in,i!;. Alter tliis the h(_)at ^\'as ])assed and I'epassed 
 by means of hnes, and three h^ads from the .^led^-e wei'e huidtnl 
 in <ah't\'. ddie ])ai1y on shore were h;inhn,u,- off for a fonrth 
 when .Madden, who had hold of the stu^re-line and stood n]) to 
 hi- middle in walei', called out that the ice was on the n)o\-e, 
 and dri\'in,u' olf>hore. 
 
 Ijellot >aw thai if Madden held on to the line much lon.iier 
 he would be dra,u;uc(l inio d<'e!) water, >o he called to him to let 
 <io, which he did. Jdeul'-naiit l>ellol and his two men then 
 hauled the b(jat on to the sled,L;'e and ran it uj) to tiie wind- 
 ward side (,f t!ie ice, inteu'liuL;,' lo launch it at once and make 
 for the siiore. Mel'ort' this could be accomplished, the ic(! 
 liad ra,])id!\' inci'cased its motion and drifle(l so hir fi'om the 
 shoi'c as to make ii impossible for them lo reach it. Madden 
 and HaiA'ey, with in<le>cril lable feeliiriis- o!' alarm, hasiene(l 
 lo an eminence, a.nd foi' two lonu; houi's ^va1ched their com- 
 i'ade< (h'il'!!n,2,' out to sea in the teeth of a biller bi-eeze - -- 
 amid the tui'bulent ic(-! (efo'-;. As the mi-t< and dri\-in,u' snow 
 filially clo-^cd upon their \ie\,\-. ihe two men were seen stmid- 
 inu' by I h:' -ledu'e, Lieutenant 1 >elIot on 1 1 H' top of a h una nock. 
 
 Ab'iddi'ii and Harx'ey de<cend(>(l lo the <hore and ;it once 
 be^an their retui'ii journey to th(- >hlp. With \-ery litile pi'o- 
 \M-!t>!i-~. thcv"" wa!k''d I'Miuid ( "i-ilfeii I^ax' and hence tn ('ape 
 Viowden. Wiiere lliey I'eniained to i'e>l . W'iiile thei'<', a'l'cat 
 wa- their joy lo I'ecoii'ii/e .lolm-ou and flook ha-' enitrti' 
 tuwai'd ihem. "The pa rp\' now made l'oi- the -hio. which 
 t'>iv |-iacl:cd wilii con-idei'a I >!< ■ difiicull\- and pi'i\'al ii hi. The 
 faO' III' pocr bieiiO'nan! r>e!lol i- de-cribed by William .h)hn- 
 -!>!:, who wa '■ \\l;h hiia on the ice al the lime of hi- death. 
 
 ■'Wi' ':m1 !;:i' ia'o\-;-i,in- imi -hor:' on Wedne-dax'. the 17lh. 
 .\fti'r \\.' had d(.ni' thaP ih'^rr remained on the ice l)a\'id 
 llook, LieuienanI nello!, ami myself, lia\inu; with tis the
 
 BE AT If OF BELLOT 171 
 
 ,sle(lt;'o, mackintosh awiiiu.o;, and little boat. Coiumeneed 
 tiying to (lr;i\v the l)oat and slcdj^c to the southward, but 
 found tlir ice (hivinji; so IVist, that we lel't the sbnlge and took 
 the boat onh' ; but tlie wind was so strong at the time that it 
 bknv the l)oat over and over. A\'e then took the i)oat with 
 us, under sh(4ter of a pierce of ice, and "S\\\ l^ehol and oui'selvc^s 
 coi]imence(l cutting an ice-house with our kirives foi- sheher. 
 Mr. Hehot sat i'or half an hour in convca'sation with us. talk- 
 ing on tlu^ d;mger of our }X)siti(jn. 1 told him I was not 
 afraid and that the American ]-]x))edition M'as di'iven U]) and 
 down this chamiel by the ic(\ He n^plied, '1 know th(\v 
 were- ; and when the Lord ])rot(Hds us, .not :i hair of our 
 heads sludl b(^ touched.' 1 then aslan! Mi'. ]-5<'llot what time 
 it was. lie said, 'Alxmt a (juarler ])ast (S a.m.' (Thursday, 
 the 18th), and then lasl.'ed his hooks, and said he would go 
 and see liow th(> ice Wcis di'iving. lie had only b(>eii gone 
 about four nhnutes, Avlien 1 wiait roujid the same hummock, 
 undei' \\'hicli we were sliellei'ed to look for him, but could not 
 see him : and on r(/tui-fhng to our shelt(>r, saw his slick on th(> 
 oiil)o<it(^ side of a crack, about five fathonns \vid(\ and the 
 ic' all breakiuji' uj). \ tl'.en cisUe*! ont, 'MV. llellot,' but no 
 answ(a' i:d 1 his time blowing v(My hea\-y). After this ] again 
 searched I'ound, but could sec notliiiig of hiiu. I b(ilev(^ 
 wIk-u he uol from tlie <lielte!'. the \\'iiid bhcw him into the 
 (a':ick. and his souih-weslei' being tied down, he could not 
 I'ise. l-'inding thei'e w;is no lio]x> oi' again seeing Ijcuteiumt 
 T'ellot, T said to ITook, 'Tin not ab'aid : 1 know th(> Lord 
 will always sustain u-^.' W'r commenced trjiX'elling. to try 
 to get to Cajx^ 'le TL)ven, oi' Poi't Phillips; cnil. when we 
 got wiihin two nnlcs of ('ape de T[;ivtai. could noi get on 
 shore, and retm'ned fos' this sid(\ endeavoi'ing to jiel io \\\v 
 soutlnvard, :is the ice was dri\'ing to the nortliward. ^\ e 
 wes'e th;it ihght and the followinu' d;!>' in coiuiim' ;!Ci'o--. ;md 
 came into the land on the eastern shore, a long way to tlu^
 
 17:.' 
 
 THE CHEAT WHITE XOIlTH 
 
 iioi't hw'ard of t lie ])\nrc where we were (h'iveii off. A\'e <i'r)t into 
 the land at what iJeuteiiant l^ellot loM us was Point IIo- 
 
 .ii'arth. 
 
 "In (lriftin,si' u]) the Straits towards the Pohir Sea we 
 saw an ieeheru' l\'in;i,' (•lo>e to the shore, and found it on the 
 ground. We .-ucceeiled in ^cttiiiLi' on it and remained for 
 six hours. I .-aid to I)a\'id Hook. "Don't lie afraid, we inu>t 
 make a lioat of a piece of ire.' Aecor(Hnul}', we uot on to a 
 piece ])a»in.ir, and I ha<l a ])addle oeloniiin.L!,' to tlie India- 
 ruliher ooa.t. B\' tlii> ])iece of (h'ifl ic(' we mariaiied to 
 reach tlie slioi'e. and tlien ])roceeded to where tlie accid.ent 
 ha])])('nedi. Pleached it on Fri(hiy. ( 'ould not find our shi])- 
 mate>, (jr any i)i'o\'isions. \\ ent on for ('a])e Bowden, 
 and reache(l it on I-"riday ni^'ht." 
 
 P<jor I-)ellot - - loo l)ra\'e - too younu' to die — !)e]o\"ed 
 hy conu'ades. moui'ne(l hy the -im])le lv-l;imos he had 
 liefriended — cheri-hed in tender memory ')y the nation that 
 <i'a\'e liim hirth and 1»\' (Ireat P)i'itain foi' wliom lie oa\'e his 
 life,- lii< hoiioureij name i- linke(l in immorl alit \' wit h tho-e 
 l)ra\'e h(-roe- of the Arctic, wlio-e -epulchri • i- 'he fr<i/''n 
 deep, \\-ho-e monuments are the eternal .-now- of the (o'eat 
 White North.
 
 
 ^^ '1,' 
 
 V 
 
 
 y^ 
 
 173
 
 ClIAPTKR X 
 
 Slcd^'iiiii- pjirtirs of Sir lulwai'd Px'lclicf's scjuadroii. — Dcsci'tiou 
 ut' tlir ,-!iip>. -i;ciurii to i-Jiti'iand. -Slory of tlu.' I\v.-«ilii(i\ — 
 Trari- (if Sir .hilni franklin discoN'crcd by 1 )i'. liac. — Andi-rson's 
 joiii'Hcy. " Tlh' \'oya'i,'i' of liic /■'",(' uiidri' ( 'oiniiiaiidci' Al'diii- 
 tock. - Siciiiio jounicy.-. liccordand rciic.-^ of Iraukliu's i'X})t'tii- 
 tioii. 'I'lix n tarns lo liiii^'Iand. 
 
 Tin: slodm' parties sctil out hy .Sir F.ihviird Iiolchor's 
 s(itia(li'()ii, tli()tii;]i t\tii!ic!'<)tis and oxtoudod, had siicc('('d(Ml in 
 fiuditiij,' i>() truco of I'l'atdditi or his ci'cw's : thus tho winter 
 of IS.").; IS.U i):i--e(h ddie follow'iti;;- April, l/ictitei>a!it Ale- 
 chaiti fouiid ill l/'riiire of \\ aie> Strait antl, lat(a"o!i, IJaiiisay 
 Niamh ivcords hearing the (hde of Aumi>l 27. Is,")2, _ii;i\-iii,t2; 
 fill! i'ileiliu':'aice of ('aplaiii ( '(i!ii!i~-oii, .-i!if(> his '-e])arat ion 
 iwnw !!,(■ I ,.r, yl'ijiih.r. \\\ that ( 'olliii-nn ].;ne\v of the jio-i- 
 tion of M't dure af;-:-!' partinu- -with iiiin in Is.")') in I h,e Pacific 
 ()c(-an, \\'as a repoj't I'roin \\\v I'lnrir tlcit t!ie f ///■(■-^f/fidlar 
 had Ix'cM -een, -tec-iici' noi'ilnvard, olf WdiiiP.vriiiiit Pilot. 
 
 d'o \'eri!'\' i-ertnin ri:inoe,r> cotuiectcdl \\-ith Phis report, ("ai)- 
 Pain ('o!i;!i-o!i oi'dcn-d .• yoMi'U' olhcia", Pictilcnaiit Pariiaffi, 
 and ('( riain iiiCMiiici'- of the crrw to land at ;i Ru.— i.aii settle- 
 ni'ait ill iiort Irw'i'-; America, dda' re>u]t was a :-a<l t rauvd\'; 
 h' 'laiard wa- hru'allx' tiiurdfa'ed hy Pidians m P(Pniar\', 
 l'^")!, .ii a po-! call"'! IPir.dhiii. n'air Xoi'toii Sound. 
 
 IP- tia' li^i of -Pi!y, ]■-:,]. C.jJiiiM.n had rounded i'oint 
 'P:a-M-,\a ;!ud iiae -locrcd up Princ of W'alc^ Mrait. On 
 Pi'ini-i'--: ijoyiij !~ha.d, k" di~"o\a'rod a dcpo; (kpo-iicd ! )y 
 A! '( 'ku''' a lid a CM!! a ' 1 lu; ali:iiiLi: iid'i iianai io!i of 1 h( /'■/'( ^^//;/^;/f)/'".s 
 lia c, . ;;ii''U -. ap ;a;P! .kai.' {']. I a." P ^'unin-oii proc-njod ill 
 c\;;r:l;. :hi- coia--!^ lak'ai ! ^y P ■■ ' mi si ■ij,itni\ and to hi- >in-- 
 
 IVl
 
 CAPTAIX COTAAXSON 1 t o 
 
 ])i'isf^ found at C'a])(' Kcllctt, on Scptoiuber 3, another record 
 of AlX'iurc^ placed there on Au,i;-ust IS. 
 
 ("olUns(_)n now found it necessary t(j seek winter (juarters. 
 The.--e li(> secured toward thc^ eastern .--ide of tiie entrance to 
 Princ(> of Wales Strait. 
 
 As conditions would allow, he ]itu'sued his explorations in 
 tlie vicinity of Barilvs Land, Albert Land, Wollaston Land, 
 and N'ictoria Land, ii'aining nuich valuable <i;e()_u-ra])hical in- 
 h)rniation, but no trace of Franklin, excej^t for the findin^ti; in 
 the po-ses>ion of the Eskimos a ])iece of an iron doorway or 
 hatch frame which misiht have Ix^lontixnl to the j'^ rebus or 
 Tifi'dr. This was found at C'amliri'lue Bay, in ^\'ollaston 
 Land, whei'e Collinsou wintca'ed in LSr)2-bS.")3. 
 
 CoUinson's sl(-d,u<' parties exiploi'cd the v\'est sid(> of \'ic- 
 toria Strait, but, owinp; to lack of coal. ('a})tain ( 'ollinson 
 decided not to try to force a ]iassa,o;(> throup;h tlie channel, 
 but to retru'n the way he had com(\ lie did not <i('t round 
 Jjarrow Point. ]io\\'ever, withotit pas>ing a third ^\•inter in 
 t!;e northern coast of America. 
 
 T!n' b('-i ])arl of the summer of A'^'i.] was ]~)assed l)y the 
 h'lsnlifv and Ihfrcpifl with tiieir crews and that of the I/u-rs- 
 t''j'!t"r sliut u]) in the ice at Dealy I-land. I'A'ei'y ]M'cj);;rati(.)n 
 was mad',' to advance ;it a moment's notice >hould the ice 
 favour the ()i)])ortunity. arcd ar hi-t. on the bSth of .Vuii'U-t, 
 tliey u'ot uu'ler way, a stron,u' pile fi'om olTshore ha\'in,u,' di— 
 i'Ui)turr-d the ice. 
 
 TTm'dly were ofhc(>rs and men couu'r*jduiatin,<i' tliem- 
 selves that at la>t they wer(> homeA\'ai'd bounju wiien they 
 were ari'ested liy tl;e ]);ic]>; olT ]^)yam McJ'lin f 'laiiuicl, wiici'e 
 they lay, unaKile 1o make PKilliur-t F-hmd nud tiaiic;' to 
 l)eech('y Pland. Winter was ad\'anciri'i': ti:'' -it-.-it ic'U v,';.- 
 (Ii>}ie;u1eni!m': d;iy after d.a\' iia--eil without tlu' -pi'o-prct of 
 e.<ca])e. The m(ai occujtjed themsel\-e< wilh >ecurirm' u;ime. 
 again>t the possil)le detention of the shi])s for anotlier titoomy
 
 17<; THE (rUEAT WHITE XO/rTIf 
 
 winter. Ten tliousaiid jtound- (jf iiiciit. ])i-iiK'i])ally niu-k- 
 ox, \vu< ohtaiiicd ami frozen. B}' the Dili oi SepT(-nil)(i', 
 newh' formed ice >urr(jun(le<l them in sueh (juantities tliat 
 they were fairly beset and (h'ifted at the mei'cy (^f tiie ])aek 
 initil the 12th of X(n'emher, when, to the joy of all. the shi])- 
 were a.t re>t at a ])oint due east of A\"iiitei" Hai'hor. Mehille 
 I-land. in hjuuitude KJl" ^^'. Here the lowj: winter nunitli- 
 ]")asse(l <lowly hy, with no greater casualty than the <leat}i of 
 (jrie officer, and the s])rin(i' (jf LS.jd found Captain Keilett 
 ])lamiin<i' to continue tlie search, while AIX dure and his crew 
 de])arted A])ril 14. with sle<loes, for Beechey I>land. 
 
 A\diile enirau'cd in ])reparati(jns for his ]")ro])o<e(l sledu'e 
 journe\'>, ('a])tain Keilett received a communication from 
 Sir Edward I^elcher, admiral of the s(juadron, su.u'^'estiny; 
 that rather than run the risk of ]")a>>in(i' an(jther winter in the 
 Arctic, he -hould abandcjn his shi])s and meet Sir Ivlward 
 at I)eeche\' on or hefijre August 2l). To thi< ( 'a])tain K('l]ett 
 remonstrated, -tating that hi> shi])> wei-e in a lax'ourahle 
 >ituation for esca])e. that the health of the crew wa< exc(-l- 
 l(-nt. a.nd they had ])ro\'isions in ])lenty. and that tho>e con- 
 cerne(l in de.-erting >hi])s under >U(Ti circumstance.- "would 
 de-.er\-e to ha\-e the jackets tak'cn off tlieir ha'-k-." I'o lhi< 
 >tronii, a])pe;d came ])o>iti\'e orders iar the akandi inment of 
 t he -!ii])-. 
 
 Acting under the>e o!'(lei'<. ('a])tain Keilett reluctantiy 
 ])repar.-(l to d.e-ert the li'fsnliiti and IntrtjiiiL lioth >hip- 
 were -lored A\'ith ])ro\"i-ion-. tlie engines ot t!;e f/'fri/inl ])i;i 
 in ~uch uood oi'der that >he could he got und'^r .-team in two 
 hoiH',-, the hatche- c;dk(-(l (low"!!, and notice- ])la.ced at |)!'(i])er 
 [loiiii- for t!ie guidance of two -leiluini!: ])arlie- th;it Wi-re 
 aw;!\^ t'l'om the -hi])- at thi- time. ( )m the l-ltli o! .May, 
 Js.Vi. the c;i])iain and crew -;iid farewell to their tru-1\" cr;ifl- 
 ;Uid -I.'U-ted. wit !i -Ifd^c-, for liecchry I-land, wiiefv .M'<'iui-c 
 
 and lii- men were t:reatl\- -urpri-dl k\ tlieir arriwal.
 
 CAPTAIX IIKLIIIKR 177 
 
 Sitico Sir Edward B(4('!hm' liad ])art(Ml with Captain Kcilctt 
 August 14, lSr)2, ])artics from \\\v Assistd/icc and Pi<)ii(( r 
 had IxH'u (HHpjcntl}' ('X])l()rin<2; AW'niiigtou ("lianncl. IIa\iu,i;' 
 anchored iK^ar Cape I^ecchcr, in latitude 7(j^ 02' and longi- 
 tude 37° W., l)oat and sledge^ expeditions wer(^ sent north- 
 ward as early as th(> 23d of August. On th(> 25th remains of 
 s;>'\'(a-al well-built Eskimo houses were discovered, of which, 
 says Captain I-Jelcher : — 
 
 "The}' wvvc not simi)ly circles of small ston(>s. ])ut two 
 lines of well-laid wall in (\xca\'ated gr(.)unds, [ilknl in bc^tween 
 1)\' about two feet of fine gi'avel, well pav(^d, and, withal, 
 presenting the appearance of grt^at care — more, indeed, 
 than I am willing to attiibute to tlu> rude inhabitants of mi- 
 gratory I'^skimos. Bones of dvcv, wolves, seals, etc., were 
 numerous, and coal was found." 
 
 Xew lands discoverecl were given th(> names of North 
 Cornwall, Mctoria Archipelago, and to an island of this 
 grou]) foi'ining a channel to the Polar Sea was gi\'(>n the name 
 of Xorth Kent. 
 
 Other sledging ])arties intende<l foi' tlu^ searcli of the north- 
 east section left the ship Alay 2. IS.").'], and soon reached the 
 limit (jf tile!!' <lisco\'eries the ])re\a(>us year. 
 
 Belcher I'eaclied Cap(^ Disi'aeh. an elevation of six hundred 
 and eighty feet above the sea, and later made his way to tlie 
 entranc(> of , Jones ( 'haimeh wheic lie had an extended view 
 of succe>,-i\-e b,(>etling hendlaiids on eithei' side of the channel. 
 Th(^ rouglmess of the I'rozen ])ack com])elled the })arty to take 
 to the land, but ]>r()gi'(>ss was again im])eded by an abi'U])t 
 glacier. Oi hei' attempts to cont inu(> the land joumc}' p!'o\'ed 
 futile, and by the 2Uth of May the party could advance mo 
 fa 11 her. 
 
 Of the retui'u journey T^elcher wi'ites : — 
 
 "Our progress was tantalizing and attended v.'ith de(>]) 
 intere>t and excitement. In the first plaee. T discovered, liii
 
 17^ 
 
 THE GJiJ-:.\T wiiriE xoirrif 
 
 the brow of a niounlain aliout oiulit liiuulrt'il feet aljovc tlie 
 Sf-a. what a])i)('ai'('il lo he a rc^cciil anil a vcr\' workiuanlikf' 
 .-structure. I'liis ^va^ a donic. -- or i'atli('i\ a do'iidc cone. 
 (.)r ic''-!!OU>('. — liiiill of \ ci'V l!ca\'y and lubulai' .-la'')-, whir-li 
 iKj .-inu'lc ])fi'>on {'(iiild carry. It con-i.-tcd of al.oiit foily 
 (•our.-(-s, (■i,iilit f('('t in dianu'tci', and ci.ulil itcX in dc]}ili. v/tK^n 
 (dcarcd. hut only fi\"c in l!ci<i.'ht from tlic ha-c of the u|;|)('r cone 
 as w(- ojX'nfMl it. 
 
 "Alo-t cai'cfully Was every stone reniovc'd. (-very atom of 
 ]]io>- (ti- earth .-crutinized : the .-tone- at ihe Ixjttwin al.-o takf'ii 
 up : h'Ui wit hout finding' a t raee of any ri 'eord. or of 1 he stnic- 
 ture ha\"!n,ti l)een n.-ed hy any liunian l-finu: It wa> filledl 
 hy drift -!io\v. hut did not in any re-pect hear tiie a])])earance 
 (m' h:i.\'inu' heen huilt more than a sea.-on. Thi.- wa- named 
 ■ Mount 1 )i-ei)\'('ry." '" 
 
 A littif later he writes : — 
 
 '■ J,ea\'inL!.' our crew. ])rctty AVell fat i^ii'ued. to ])iteh the tent 
 audi ])repar(' the cii-toniary ])emmican meal. I a-fendidl tlie 
 nii)Un!;i.in ahove u-. and di-c()\-(i'e( 1 that we reall\ W(-rc not 
 far from our old ])o-i'ion of la-t year, on ( 'ajx' Houurth. atidi 
 hadi (';ip<' Majflidic and Ilamiiioii h-lalid to tiie wi-.-l. ahout 
 t wi'Mty niifv-. 
 
 "My -in'p!'i-i'. howe\-('r. was cliecked .-udidcnly hy two 
 .-trueiui'i-- ratiu-r in liuropeaii toi'in. and a])])ariii! ly ura\'i-- : 
 (■a'-h Wa- -imiiarlx' eon-t I'lictt-di ; atid. likf ihi- d,,)Mii\ of larLV 
 .-i'l<-ft«-d -Ich)-. ha\iim- at each end three -epafjti' -loiii'-. l;iid 
 a- \^'f -iionld pihice hi-ad and foot -Ioiik-. .^o t iiorou^hl\- 
 .-;Ui-fii'd \ea- I ih.ai there Wa- lio dclu-io;i. I de-iu.di from di — 
 tMi'diii'^ a -tune until it -hoiild he formali\-dono h\-!hi-partv 
 
 ■■ I ill- o\-ciiieM' hihowiiiL: - lo:' wtK-re i[;c -un !- -o o;i];r(-- 
 
 ■.■ ti, t h,. cyo- ; ry da\- We t :'a\'('l hy niuht - - We :'-!■( 'lided t lie 
 
 h iind reM!o\-ei! the -tone-. XmI a t raee (if ieini.'Mi ! -eiim'- [ " 
 A.Mel' a -eeoiid win-ei- \^r,:] 1 S.", ! -OeUt at the -,;utheril
 
 DKSKirnON OF THE SHIPS 179 
 
 lioni of Baring Bay, Sir Edward Bc-lcher turned his entire 
 ex(>rtions to <i,('tting his crews safely l)ack to Enghuid. 
 Tlie A-^sidcuicc and Pioneer were released from their winter 
 quarters August G, 18.14, and proceeded slowly down the 
 channel. Tlie ice had brok(>n up in Barrow .Strait, and by 
 August 22 the Hoc in Wcdlington Channel was open for 
 fil'teen miles noi'th of the strait. Tlier(^ was only a belt some 
 twenty milc\'^ in ' extent, and this much cracked, remaining 
 betv,'(Hni the ships and the water communicating witli the 
 Atlantic ()c(^;m. In spite of these favourable^ conditions, Sir 
 Edward Belcher and his crews d(^serte(l the A ■•<■'<{ ■■<ta nee and 
 Pioneer on August 26, 18,54, and made their way to the ])lace 
 of r(Midezvous at Beechey Island. 
 
 The Xirrfh Stor accordingh' set sail with all the officers and 
 men of the Assi4ance, Pioneer, Rexohde, Intrepi'l. and Pive-^- 
 tinotor. i)ut meeting the Phanix and Talbot, under ('a]itain 
 Inglefield (who had again returned to tlu^ search), a distri- 
 bution of tlu" crcnvs was made among the thriM' vess(4s, and 
 on tlie 28th of Septeml)er, 1854, all were safely landed in 
 j'^ngland. 
 
 Tiic i'e])ort of five ships deserted in tlie Arctic regions, and 
 no tidimi's of tlie Erel>us and 'Terror, gave rise to the court- 
 martial of Sir Edward Belcher and liis officers, all of whom, 
 Avith the exce]")lion of Sir Edward, were honourably acrjuitted, 
 as a matt(>r of coiu'se, in conseriuence of tlieir haA'ing acted 
 vmder ordc^r^, and tiieir swords were returned to them with 
 ver\- flatt.'iing expressions of a]:)pi'obation. Sir Edwai'd 
 r^elcher was ;tlso acfjiiitted. Init was re])roved for not haviiig 
 coii-ultcd -Uifici.'ii-ly with liis officers, and \i\> ^word was 
 retiu'ned to hini in sit.':nificant silence. 
 
 Tlie- Bi'iii'-h gox'f'r'nnuMit now decided to aliaivlon th(^ se;u'ch 
 foi' Sir .lohi! l-\ranl\liii, ;ni(l his nam(> w;!s (M'ased_ fi-oiii tlie l)ooks 
 of the Admii-alty. — a sad token that all lio^x^ (jf his rctui'u w;is 
 li'oiu" forcvi-r.
 
 ISO 
 
 THE CllKAT WIIITI-: XOllTII 
 
 A st i':in,t;(' ;iii(l fomuut ic cliaplcr in the hislon' of Sir Ivhvard 
 jjclclicf's <([iia(lroii was added in the nicjnth of September, 
 ]S.l."j. ddie whalei', O'eo/v/e Jhnrij, ('ai)tain Bviddin,ii;ton, liail- 
 ini;- from Xew London, ( '(jimeetieuT, was beset by ice in Haf- 
 fin 15ay. < >n looking through his ghiss one morning, C.'a])- 
 1;iin !)uddiiigton saw a large shi]) fifteen or twent\' miles away, 
 Working hei- way slowly toward him. For several days lu; 
 watched hei' gradually a])proaeh, and on the seventh day, the 
 mate, Air. (^uail, and tlu'ee men were sent out to find out what 
 she was. 
 
 "After a hard d;iy"s joiu'iiey over tlie icc^, — jumping from 
 ])iece to ])iee(>, and ])ushiiig themselves along on isolated 
 cakes, they were near enou.gh to see that she was lying on lua" 
 l;i!'board side, (irm!\' imbeilded in the ice. They shoute(l 
 lu^lil\- as soon as they got witiiin hailing distance; but there 
 \vas no answer. Not a soul was to be seen. I'or one mo- 
 ment, as they came along-ide, the inen faltered, with a su])er- 
 stitious feeling, and lie-italed to go on board. A mojnent 
 af'ei', they had climbed o\-er the bi'oken ice, and stood on 
 deck. JA'cr'yt hing was stowed away in oi'der - spai's hauled 
 U]) and la>he(l to one side, bo;it> piled together, hatches 
 calked <lown. ( )\'er the helm, in letters of bi'ass, was in- 
 scril.'ed the motto, 'iaiglatid expect-; e\-ei'y man to do his 
 duty." ]'>u\ there wa- no man to heed the warning." 
 
 The wh.alemen broke open the companionway, and dc- 
 sceiuled into the cabin. .Ml wa.- -ilenee and dai'kness. ( ii'o])- 
 iu'j,- llii'ir w.ay lo the table, i!iey found malches and candle-, 
 .■lud .-truek .a liuht. There \ycv(' decanters and glas-es on the 
 t.abje, cli.-iu-- .aiid lMUML:.e- -taiidinu' around, book- scattered 
 about e\-(-ryt hiuLi,' jii-t a- it had been la.-l u-ed. bo()king 
 curiou-!\' fi'om (iiie tliiiiu' tn anotlaa', wondfaun;.': what this 
 d' -'-rli'd -l:ii) mi'j,!:' be, at l.a.-t they came upon tin' loL!,--lH)(ik. 
 ll w:i- iudui'-ed, ■•/,',;,■/,■ //r.-e////,', | -t Se 1 ,1 euil K a', 1 S."):',, t o A pi'il , 
 Is.')!." ( »l!e eiilr\- wa- a- tolloWs : '■[I. .M. S. /,',.<,,!;;!;,

 
 Dh'shirrioN OF THE siurs l.sj 
 
 rrtli January, ISoi, uiiu; a.m. Clustered by (li\'isious. P('oi)le 
 taking (^xercisc on (icck. Five p.m. AltTcury I'roztui." 
 
 At lasi tlu> Rcsoliilc luul broken hvv icy bonds and was free. 
 Wliik^ the Yanlce(> wlialiMucni wove examining hei', a gale 
 started up and niglil eanie on ; for two days these four iii(>n 
 nMn;un(Hl aboard her. T>y thi> 19th of Sei)teniber they had 
 returned to their own sliip and told th(>ir stoi'y. 
 
 For Um days these two stii])s had gradually neanHl one 
 anoth(M-, and on the 19th Cai^tain Buddington w;is able to 
 board the lUsohdc himself and carefully note hej' condition. 
 Hei' hold was ]M'(^tty W(~ll filled with ic(\ and her tanks had 
 ])in'st from the extrcMue cold, filling her full of water almost to 
 the low(a' deck. 
 
 '' I'^verything that could move from its ])lace had mo\-(Ml. 
 Eviaything b(>1\V(Hm decks was wet ; (>^■(M■ything tliat would 
 mould was mouldy. 'A sort of ])ers])irat ion ' had stalled on 
 th(> beams taid ceilings. The whalemiMi ]nad(^ a fire in Ko\- 
 lett's st()\'(>, and soon startcul a sort 'jf showei' fi'om tlie va])or 
 with which it filled the air. Th(> licsulufc had. lio'W(n'er, 
 foui- force ])um]ys. For thi'CH^ days the ('a])tain an<l six nu^u 
 wo!'k(Ml fou!"t(-(Mi hours a day on one of thes(\ and had the 
 pleasure of finding that they freed Ikm' of water, - tluit she 
 was tight still. Th(>y cut away upon th(^ niassc>s of lev; 
 and on the '2'.]d of Se])teml)er, in tho (^vening, sh(> freed luM'self 
 from hei' (Micumbrances, and took an (n'cn keel. This was 
 off the we>t sliore of l>aflin's Ixiy. in latitude ()7^. On the 
 short (vi tack, sh(> was tweh'e hundr(>d inil(\s from wluM'e 
 Kellett left h(>r. 
 
 ''Therc^ was woi'k enough still to hie done. I'tie rudder w;is 
 to b(> shipped, and I'igtiing to be mad(^ taut, sail to bc^ ■-:et." 
 
 In anotluM- weelc she was i-(^a(ly to make sail - and tliotigh 
 both th.e whak^r and Risnlnh still di-iftt'd in tlie ice-;)ack, 
 C'aj'jtain T^iuddinuton ix^soK'c^d to bi'insi' her hom.e: l!owev(M', 
 l)y ()c!(.)l)(a' 21, after a gale, the lii'solnh was free. Ten iin n
 
 l.si! 
 
 Till-: CHEAT WllllE XOJiTJI 
 
 were sclccttHl from th(> d'corgc Ilciirij, and with n)u,i;'h tr;icin,a,'s 
 of \\\c AincricMU coast, his Ivvvv watch and (luadi'aiil i'or his 
 iiistrunu'iits, {'a])taiu J^U(l(liii,u;toii uiKUn'took a jx'rilous and 
 remarkable joui'iicy. '^Fhc ship's ballast was j^onc, she was 
 top-heavy an<l imd(M-maiiued. Heavy gales and head v.'inds 
 drove tlumi as far as the l^jerimidas. The water left in the 
 shii)'s tanks was brackish — and the men suffered from tiiirst. 
 
 " I'"or sixty hours at a time/' says Cai)taiu Jiuddington, 
 "I freciuently had no slee])." 
 
 In the meant im(>, he had conununicated with an l-vn<;lish 
 whaling- bai'k, and In'her sent to ('a])tain ivellett his epaulets 
 and word to h.is owners that he was comin.ti;. 
 
 On Sunday mornint;-, I)eeemb(>r 2 I, with the British ensign 
 [lyin,2,' fi'om her shorn masts, the lU-^olidc ancliorcMl o])])()site 
 Xew kondon. It will be I'emembei'ed that (li'(\Mt P>ritaiu 
 i!:enei'oU:~ly releasinl all claims in favour of the sailors, and that 
 ( 'on, ur(>ss i'e>ol\'ed to j)urc!iase the \'essel and I'cstorc it as a 
 uift to i'Jigland. ^Fhe li'csoliilc was taken to a dry dock in 
 I)i'ookl>'n, and tliei'e put in complele repair. l^\'eryt liin.i;' on 
 bo.'ii'd, e\-en the smallest ai'ticle, was jilaced in its oi'iuinal 
 po-ition. ami at last wlsen tin-; woi'k was completed, sh(^ was 
 m,ui!ied ;uid oflicered l)y the knited States Xa,\'\', and with 
 <ails ;ill set ;md streamers all flyiut;' started h)i' hji.iiiand. On 
 1 )cccinber 12. IS.")!), ;iftei' a, tempestuous \-oy;i<i,(', she anchored 
 at Spit head, flyinu' the i^'itldi and rnit(><! States eii-i'ui-;. 
 Aflci' ;u! enlhiHiaslic welconi(\ the llcsnhilc, with an (>-cort 
 of two other steamers, wms t;iken to ('owes, near ()ueen \ ic- 
 t ori;i"-- pii\ ;ite p;il;ice. I )eerml)('i' HI. | he (^hicen. ;;ccomp;ii iied 
 by rriiice .MIxTi, the I'riiiceof Wales, .'iiid a dist in,^'ui-lied 
 >uite, p;iid an olhi-ial \i>it to 1 lie Amei'ic.an ollicei's on bo.'ird 
 .diip. 
 
 'I'^'e next niorninii.' she was 1 owed up to the harboui' of koi'ts- 
 moMlh. e<c(ifleil 'hy the -le.'im frii;,'ate L'l h'ihiitiini , .-ind. ou 
 arri'vinii; at her anchoi'aiie, was recei\-ed with a i'o\'al sahUe,
 
 STOllV OF THE RESOLUTE 18o 
 
 and such an outburst of popular a])plause as was never known 
 bel'or(\ 
 
 On th(> ;]Oth of December, ISoG, the American flag was 
 haul(>(l down on board tlie Resolute, amid a salute from the 
 Vieionj of twenty-one guns. The Union Jack was hoisted 
 U]), and the formal transfer of the Resolute to the British au- 
 thorities was (•oin])let(Hl. The following day the American 
 ofliccrs and crew left England for the United States. 
 
 Tiiough the fate of Sir John Franklin was still a mystery. 
 n(>\vs of a, nu^lanclioly character h:ul reached England tiu'ough 
 tlu- Montreal Ilerold of October 21, 18.") 4, in which a letter was 
 ])ubl!sh(Ml wi'itten ])y Dr. Hae of York Factory, August 4 
 of tlie >am(\\'oar, and addr(\-^sed to the governor of the Hud- 
 son V>tiy ( 'ompau}'. August lo, 18.1.'], Rae had rc^ached his 
 old (|uarters ad Pa^pulse l^ay, wIum'c he wintered : the cmd of 
 the following March he und(M'took liis spring joui'uey. At 
 FcUy l^ay \iv fell in with I->kinios i'nmi whom he s(H'ur(Ml 
 se\-('ral articles that he recogriizcMl as Ix'longing to vai'iou> 
 ]ucmbers of Sir .lolm Franklin's expedition. '"On tlu^ moi'n- 
 ing of the 2!)th"' (April), he writes in ]ii> journal, ''W(^ were 
 met by a \'ery intelligent Eskimo driving a dog-sknlge laden 
 with musk-ox 1)(h4'. This mari a.t onc(^ consented to acconi- 
 ])ap,y us two da\'s" journey, and in a icw minutes liad de])osit(Ml 
 his load on the snow, and was r(>ady to join us. Having 
 ex])lain(^d to liim my object, lu^ said that th(^ road l\v which 
 lie !i:id come was tk.e best foi' us : and, having lightencMl tlu^ 
 men's sknlgcs, wo tra\'enc(l with more fa''ilii\'. We were now 
 join!';! by .-motlicr of the natives, wlio had \)oon ai>s('nt sf^d- 
 liunting y('stei'da\' : but, being anxious to sec us, had A'isitcd 
 oui' -now-hon.st' cai'l^' this morning, and tiicu f()no\vedt U]) our 
 traclv. ddiis man \\'as \'cfy conuuunicatiN'c and, on ])uttiiig 
 to him the usu;d (inestions as to his having sihmi 'whit(> man' 
 b('for(\ or any >hi]>s m' boats, lie i-cplied in the ut^u'ativi^ : ])Ut 
 saiil that a ]xirty of ' Kal)loomans' had di(Ml of star\'atioii
 
 1^4 
 
 Tin: f;ni:.iT wiiitf. xoirni 
 
 a Idii.u' distance to tlic west ol" wiici'c we then wcr(\ an<l Ijcyond 
 a laritc ri\-cr. He stated that he did not know llie exact ])lace, 
 tlial lie ne\-er liad l)een tiiei'e, and that he could not acconi- 
 ])any ii< >o far. The >uli-tan.ce of the information then and 
 sul).-e(|Ueiitl\' obtained fi'oni various s(jurces \vas to the fol- 
 low'insj; effect : -- 
 
 " In the sprinu'. fourwinters ])a-t ' IS.")!) ;. \vhile some J^sldmo 
 fiunilies wei'e l-cilliim' seal< neai' the nort h shore of a lartie island, 
 named in An'ow-mit h'~- charts K'ini!,' WilliamV Land, ahout 
 foUy white meii were -ren travellinu.' in conii)any southward 
 o\'ei' the ice, and dra,i;;u'in,2: a boat and sledii:(N with them. 
 They were pa-.-in.u' alonu' the we-t shore of x\v- above-named 
 inland. Xoiu' of the ])arty could -])eak the M-kimo lanu'ua.ii'e 
 so well as to be understood. ! lut by -iun> the natives were led 
 to belie\-e that the ship or -hi])- had been cru-jied l)y ice, 
 and they were now ,u'oin,i!; to whei'e th(\v ex])ect(Ml to find deer 
 to -hoot. I'"rom the ai)peai'ance of tlic men — all of whom, 
 with the e\c('])tion of an oilicer. wei'e li.aulinu" on the dra.ii'- 
 rope< of tiie sledii-c, and looketl thin — th'cy wei'e then su])- 
 ])o-ed to be u'ettinii -liort oi' pro\'i-ion> : anil they purchased 
 a .-m;ill ,-e:il. or piece of -eal. fl'oni the natl\'<'-. The officer 
 w;i- dc-ia'i!>ed ::- beinu' ;i 1;dl, ^tout, mid;(llc-;iL:,-cd man. \\'hen 
 their d;iy'- journey terminaied, the\' pilche(l ten1> to re>t in, 
 
 "Al a lati'l' d;i1i', ih.c .-mne >e;i-on. but pi-c\-ioU- lo the di>- 
 rupl ioii of 1 he ice. t h<' coi-p-c- ot' -oiue 1 liirly pei\-on< and -ome 
 
 ;j,'i':i\"e- W'ci'c (li-coN-ered oil the ''ol it i lieii t , and fi\'e di':id bodies 
 
 Oh all i-l;md ne:ir ii. .-iboiu a loiii:' dcy"- journey to the north- 
 wi'-l of t!,e mouth of ;i lai'iie -ti'eam, which can be no other 
 ihcii licckb (ovat l''i-h Ibu'ei' ' n;mied by t he h^kimo- ( >ot- 
 dMM-!.i-e:i-|ik . ;i- it- die-eriplidll ;iud licit nf the IdW -hoi'e ill 
 th- ic'i-hi'orhood of I'oinl » »iiie and Ab)iitre;d l-l;md auree 
 
 eX;iet!\^ with 'li;it ( >!' "^ir ('..■iir'^e hk-e'k. Some of I he bo(lies 
 \\-iVi- ill ;i ti'!:', or tent-: other- Wei'e Ullder the l)o;i1. which 
 hcd bei'ii lurued o\-er to form a -heher : ;md -ome l;i\- <r:i*-
 
 THACES OF Slli JOHN FHAXKLl.X 18.") 
 
 toi-(Ml al)out in diffcrcMit dircu'tions. Of those seen on the 
 ishmd, it was sn])pos(Ml that on(^ was that of an ofiiccu' (eliiefj, 
 ;is he had a telescope stra])])ed over his shoulders, and a 
 doubk^-barrelled i!;un lay underneath him. 
 
 '"From the mutilated state of many of the hodic^s and the 
 contents of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched coun- 
 trymen had IxMni driven to the dread alternative of cannibal- 
 ism as a means of sustaining life. A few of the unfoi'tunate 
 men nuist have survived until the arrival of the wild-f(.)wl (sa\' 
 until the en.d of ^lay), as shots were lieard. and fresh hones and 
 feathers of L;;e(\-<(^ wer(> notic(M_l near the sc(Mie of the sad event. 
 
 "Theri^ a])peai's to luive \)V(n\ an abundant store of annmi- 
 nition, as the .u'uni^owder was emj)tied l)y the natives in a 
 !u>a]) on tlie ,a;round out oi the k!'i2;s or cases containing it, 
 and a ([Uantity of shot and ball was found below hi<i'h-water 
 mark, having ])robably been left on the ice close to the beach 
 before the spring connnence'd. There mu>t liave been, a 
 number of telescopes, guns (several of them double-l)ai"reiled), 
 watchers, compa-^ses, etc., all of wliich schmu to ha\'e been 
 bi'oken U]). as I saw ])iec(>s of these dilTerent articl(>s with the 
 nati\'es. and I ]iurcha>c(l a-^ !n:uiy as jiossiblc, together witli 
 some s!lv(M' si)o()ns and forks, an Order of Alca'it in the form 
 of a star, and a small silver plat(^ caigraved 'Sir John Fi'anklin, 
 K.(\B.'" 
 
 FoHowing '•los(-ly U])oii the retui'U of Or. Pvae to England, 
 a land journe\' was undei'taken by Mr. James Anderson of 
 the fludsoii I)a>' ( 'omjiany to follow u|) the trail. Tie 
 descended the (Ireat I'i.-li liix'cr in Jime, IS.")."), and at the 
 rai)id- billow Fake Franklin, three l\!,-]<imo liiits were sei-ii 
 and \"arlou- article^ were found wliicli tlie F.-kimos claimed 
 were obt;iin(>d fj'om :i boat owned liy \vhite men who had dii-d 
 of star\"ation. FIh^sc articl(>s eonsi-ted of tent-jiole^. ])addle<. 
 co])])er ami sjieet-iron kioiha's, tin sou]) ttn-een^, and toob of 
 \'arious kinds.
 
 18(; 
 
 Tin: cm: AT white yoirrn 
 
 Ainlcrsoii ])iis1uhI on to Point Beaufort, un<l finally rcachod 
 ^Montreal Island. I'hcrc ollu^r articles were i'ound, such as 
 chain, hooks, tools, r()])(', l)untinu;; tlu^ name "Air. Slanl(\\'" 
 (sui'.ii'con of the j'^rthu-^) was rudely car\'ed on a stick, and a 
 l)iec(> of hoard had on it Terror. So si,a,'ns of human I'eniains 
 were found, however. After a search at Point Ogle, where 
 similar articles wei'e found. .Vnderson's ])arty I'dui-ncnl liome. 
 
 Thouidi the P)ritisli ii-o\-ermnent no lonsi'er desired to ])U!'sue 
 the search, Lad\' I""ranldiii. wliose remai'kahle tenacity' of 
 jMupose and loyal de\-ot ion had av.'akened so much admira- 
 tion and !■('-])('(•;, (lecid(>d t(.) ex])end the last r(>nmant of her 
 fortune to outfit the small scr(>w steamer Fn.v undcM' the ahk^ 
 direction of the .gallant ArCTmtocI^, aided hy Lieutenant 
 llohson, and send it to solve the my.-tei'y that still clun.ir about 
 the fate of her helox'ed husband. 
 
 At fir>t it se(>med as if all the el(>ments liad cons])ired to 
 make this ex'ix'dition a hiilure, for in the sununei' of IS.")? 
 the fiix h)und hei'self dril'tin.u' at the mercy of the ice off 
 Alelxille P)a\', and after a driniry winter the ])ack liad carried 
 her nearl\' tweU'e hundre(l u-(>o_ui'a])hical miles in the Atlantic. 
 Xol until A])ril 2."), iS.lX.did the /''e.r ,i!,ct free, and tlu>n, securin.ii; 
 such stoi-es and prox'i.-ioiis as could he ])rocure(l at the small 
 Danish settlement of Ilolstenhura,', she saile<l into I^arrow 
 Strait. 
 
 liarly tlu^ foliowina; sjjrini;; ]>arii(>s imder Al'C'lintock and 
 Li(iit(-nant Iloh-on undi'i'took two sleduv iourney>. At 
 ('a])i' \irtoi'i:i oil llie soul tiwesl coast of ISootliia, they fell 
 ill with h-iviiuos, w!io iiifortiu'd them that -ome year-- l)ack 
 a lafLic -hip had lieeii (M'U^hed in the ice out ill the .>ea \\•e.-^t of 
 Kiim' W'ilhain h.aiid. 
 
 • Ml April '_'(). they auaiii met llies(> sam(> h-ldmos. wjio 
 informi'd ihi'ui with ureal rehi'Maiirc that a -ecoiid -hit) had 
 hci'M foi'cefl (111 -hore. wlici-c they -.U|)po<ed she ,-liil remained, 
 hut much hi'okcii. Thex' addc(j ihal it \\'a> in the i'all of llic
 
 rUE fox's VOrAGJ-J rNJ)EI! M'CLiyTOCK 1ST 
 
 yc^ir, that is, Au<;ust or S(^plenil)er, when Ww sliijjs wcn^ (\c~ 
 stroyccl; that all the while people landc^l safely and went 
 awa}' to tlu^ (Ireat Fish Hiver, taking a boat or boats with 
 them. The following year their bones were found upon the 
 trail. ArClintock and Plobson separat(\l upon reaeliing ("a])e 
 \'ietoria, and the foruK^r took up the search of the east coast 
 in a southerly tlirection, while Hobson made a diligent exam- 
 ination of the wesK^rn coast. 
 
 On ^h\\ 7, IS,')',), :\rC'lintock Avrites : — 
 
 "To avoid snow-blindness, we comuKuieed night marching. 
 Crossing o\'er from Malty Island towards the King Willimn 
 Land shore, we continued our march southward until mid- 
 niglit. when we had the good fortune to arrive at an inhabited 
 snow-village. AVe found luM-e ten or twcdvc huts and thirty 
 or foi'ty natives of Kirig A\'illiam Island ; I do not tliinlc 
 any of them had ever stH'n ^\■hite peo])le alive b(^fore, l)ut they 
 (^\idently kn(*w us to be friends. We halttnl at a little dis- 
 t;ince, and ])it('h(Ml our tent, th(> better to s(^cur(> small articles 
 from being stolen whilst we l)art(^re(l with them. 
 
 '"1 ]')in'chas(Hl fi'om tlu^n six ])iec(\s of silver ])late, beai'ing 
 th(> crests or initials of Franklin. ( 'I'oziei', Fairholm(\ and 
 ]\I(d^onald : they a.lso sold u< bows and arrows of English 
 woods, uniform and othei' buttons, and olfered us a heavy 
 sledge madi' of two short stout ])i(>ces of curved Vv'ood, which 
 no uioiv boat could lur\'e furnished them with, but this, of 
 coui's(\ we could not take away : tlie silver s])oons and forks 
 W(M'e I'cadily sold for four uccmIU^s (>ach. 
 
 "Having obtained all tlu^ ri^lics they ]~'o<sess(H]." continue-; 
 Al'f. 'lintocic, "I i)urch;is(Hl souk^ seal's fi(\<h. blub])(M'. frozen 
 \'euison, di'ied and fi'ozen salmon, and sold some of my 
 ])U])i)ies. The}' told us it w;is h'\'e (la\'s' journi^y to the wrecl^. 
 oric da\' up th(> in.let still in >ight , and fom' day-; ov(M'land : 
 tlii> would carcy tli.em to ttic' west(M'n coast of Kinu" AA'illiam 
 Land : thc^\- ad<led that Ijut little now remained of \\io wreck
 
 1S8 
 
 Tin: a hi: AT white xoiitii 
 
 which was a,('c('ssil)h>, ihcii' count rynicii haviiij;' carried uhiiost 
 (>\-crylhin^ away. In answer to an in(|uiry, they said she 
 was without masts; th(- (piestion <;-ave rise to some hiu^hter 
 amoniist thein, and ihey spoke to each otliei- ahout fire, 
 from which I'eterson thou<i;ht they had burnt the masts 
 throui^h close to tlie deck in order to <i'et them down. 
 
 "Tliei'c had been iikiiiij hooL's, tli(\y said, hut all have long 
 ago been dest I'oyed by \]\r weather; th(> shi]) was h)rced on 
 shore in the fall of the year by tlu- ice. She had not been 
 \-isited during the ))ast wilder, and an old woman and a boy 
 were shown to us who were the last to \"isit the wreck ; they 
 said they had bcM'U at it during the winter of bSr)7-l(Sr)8. 
 J'eterson ([uestioned the woman closely, and she se(>m(Hi 
 anxious to give all liie information in her ]^ower. She said 
 man\' oi' the wliite men di'oi)])(Hl by ihe way as they went to 
 the (h'eat lii\'ei' ; that some were tiuried and some were not ; 
 they did not themseU'cs witn(\-s this: but disc()\-ered th(>ir 
 bodies dui'ing the winter h)llowing. 
 
 "We could not ari'i\"e at an\' a|)])roximat ion of the n.um- 
 bers of the white men noi' of the _\'ears ela])sed since they were 
 lost. This was all the inh)rniation we could obtain." 
 
 \'isitiiig the shore along which the I'ctreating crews nnist; 
 have marched, lie came shortly aftei' midnight May 121, when 
 slowly walking along ;i gfa\'(^l I'idge near the beach which tlie 
 winds kept pailiall;\' bare of snow, upon a human .skeleton, 
 partly expo-cd, with here and there a h'W fi'agments of clot h- 
 i'lg' appearing through the snow. '"The skeleton now 
 perfectly iih'aehed wa< l\-ing upon its face, the limlx and 
 s!:iai!< r b(Mie,- either dl>se\'ereil oi' a,'n;iwed awa\' bv >niall 
 
 "A niM-l cai'eful examination of the spot," wi'lte> M'('iin- 
 locf:, "\\a--, of coui'se, made, the >now remox'ed, .and e\'(a'y 
 sei',;p iif cldlliing gathered up. .\ pocket-book afforded 
 sli'nicj, '.;!'Mimi!> of hope that >onie infoi'inalion might be >ub-
 
 THE fox's ]-OVA(iE V.\l)i:U M'CJAXT(>( K lSi» 
 
 soqucMiliy obtaiiiod I'csi^xH'tinsi; tlu> mifortunat(' owner and the 
 calamitous niarcii of the lost crews, but at the time it was 
 ho'ivn hard. The sul)stance of that which we gleaned tipon 
 the s])ot may thus be summed up : — 
 
 "This \-ietim was a young man slightly built, and perha])s 
 above tlu~ conmion height ; the dress ajipeared to be that of 
 a stewai'd oi- ()flic(>r's servant, the loos(^ bow-knot in which 
 liis neck-handkerchief was tied not b(>ing used liy s(>amen or 
 ofhc(-rs. In e\-ery i)articiilar the di'ess confirmed otu' conjec- 
 tur(^s as to his rank or ollicc^ in the lat(^ expedition, — the blue 
 jacket with slashed sl(M'ves and braidcnl edging, and th(> ])il()t- 
 cloth gr(>at-coat witli ])lain co\'ei'ed l)Uttons. W'e found, also, 
 a clothes-brush near, and a horn ])0('ket-coml). This ])oor 
 man stH'nis to have sc^h^'ted the bare I'idge to]), a.s alVording 
 the least tir(>sonu' walking, and to luu'c fallen upon his f;!C(.! 
 in tlie })osition in which we found him. It was a melancholy 
 truth that tlu^ old ^\•oman s])oke wlien slie said 'they fell 
 down and dietl as they walked along.""" 
 
 At ('ai)e Herschel a cairn was found all but dc^molished by 
 the natives, and gi-eatly to the disa])])ointment of ^rClintock 
 no I'ecord of any kind was discox'ered. 
 
 "I noticed wilh great care." lie writes, "the a]")])earan('e 
 of the stones, and came to the conclu-^ion that the eaim itself 
 was of old date, and had bieen erected many years ago, and 
 that it was r(Mluc'cd to th(> state in whicli we found it by ])eo])le 
 !ia\'ing broken down one side of it : the displac(Hl stones, from 
 being turned o\-ei', looking far more fresh than tlios(> in that 
 ])orti()n of the cairn which had been l(>ft standing. It w;is with 
 a fe(^ling of dee)) regret and nmcli disa])])ointmtMit that I left 
 this spot witliout finding some cert.'dn i'(M'ord of tho-e martyrs 
 to their country's fam(\ Perha))> in all the wide woi'ld llierf^ 
 will be U'\y spoi-^ niore hallowed in the I'ecollecl ion (>!' faigli^h 
 seamen than rhi-~ cairn on ( 'ajx' nerscliel. 
 
 ■"A few mil(>s beyond Cajx' ller>chel I Ik- l-nd becoUit> \'er>'
 
 I'JU Till-: (illKAT WHITE XOUTII 
 
 low ; in:iny islots and :^liin<i;l('-ri(l<2;('s lie far off tho coast ; and 
 as we ad\'anc('d wv met with hiiinniock- of iiinisiially heavy 
 ice, slicjwing ])hiiuly that we were n(jw tra\'(-hin<4' upon a far 
 more ex])osed ])art of the coast-hnc-. A\'e were a])|)roachin,<x 
 a spot where a revekitiou of intense intere:^t was awaiting 
 me. 
 
 '■About twelve miles from Cape Herschel I found a small 
 cairn Iniilt Ijy Iloljson's party, containin,ii' a note for me. 
 He had reac!ie<l this his extreme point, six days ])r(-vioii>!\-, 
 without having seen anything of the wreck, or of natives, 
 but he had found a reccn'd — the record so ardently sought for 
 — of the Franklin ex])edation — at Point Mctory, on the 
 northwest coast of King A\'illiam Land. That record is 
 indeed a sad and touching relic of our lost friends, and, to 
 ,sini])lify its content.-. I Avill ]:)oint out .-ei)aratel\' tlie double 
 story it sq briefly tells. 
 
 "In the first place, tlie record ]')a])er was one of tin- jirintcd 
 
 forms u-ually supplied to (li>c(jvery shi])- for the ])urj)o>(- (jI 
 
 l)eing enclosed in bottles and tlirown ov(-i'board. at >ea. in 
 
 order to ascei'tain the M-t of the cui'rents, blanks beii^g k-ft 
 
 for tlie date and ]")0-itio!i : an\' p^ixju findinu' one oi the-e 
 
 record.s i< r(H"jUe-ied to forward^ it to the Secretary of th(^ 
 
 Admiralty, with a note of time and |")lace : and ihi.- rec|ue>t 
 
 is ])ririted u])on it in >ix difffrent language.-. I']")on it was 
 
 writt('n, apjKirently by Lieutenant flore, as follow- : — 
 
 (.-.'-.o f AT ' IL AL <iii])s Knh'iis and Tcrrnr 
 
 2'S 01 Ahi\-, . ,.,... . 
 
 -ic\- ' ■ wmterr'd in trie ice m lat. /()' 
 
 o.r X. : iniio-. ov" 2;r w. 
 
 ■'■na\"ing wintered in bsKV-T. at Px-f-chey Pland, in lat. 
 7k i:;' 2s" \.. lonir. Id" :;!V bV W., after haviiiLr a-eeiided 
 W'ciliiiiiion r!i;Mincl to lat. 77" and retm'ned by t!ic we-i .-ide 
 of C 'MriiWaHf- Plaiid. 
 
 "■.•~^ir Jojiii IVaiiklin commandinu' the exjx'dition. 
 
 '■'All w!l.
 
 riu-: fox's voyace iwder m'clintock lUl 
 
 '•'Parly consisting of 2 officers and (i men left the ships on 
 Aloudav, mth May,, 1847. 
 
 '"( ini. (!ore, Lieut. 
 '■"Clias. V. Des \anix,. Mate.' 
 
 "There is an error in the ahove document, namely, that the 
 Erebus and Terror wintered at Beechey Island in 18i0-7, — 
 th(> corr(H't dat(>s should liave been 184o-(J; a glance at the 
 date at th(^ loj) and bottom of the record proves this, btit in 
 all other respects tlic tale is told in as few words as ])ossible, 
 of their wonderful success ti]) to that date, Alay, 1847. 
 
 "We find that after the last intelligence of Sir Jolm Franklin 
 was r(H'eived \)y us (bearing date of July, 181o), from the 
 whalers in A[('l\-ille Hay, tliat liis ('X])edition i)assed on to 
 Lancaster Sound, and eiUered ^\'ellington Channel, of which 
 the snutherii entranc(> had been discovered by Sir Edward 
 Parr\' in 1810. The Erebiis and Tirror sailed ti]) tliat strait 
 for on'c lumdreil and fifty miles, and reached in the auttmm 
 of 181.1 the same latitude as was attained eight years subse- 
 fjuently by 11. M. S. Assisidnce and Pin/Ker. Whether Frank- 
 lin intended to ])ursue this northern course, and was only 
 sto])])e(l by ice in that latitude^ of 77^ north, or ])in"])osely 
 relin([uished a roiite which seemed to lead away from th(> 
 known seas off the coast (jf America, mu>t be a matter of 
 opinion : but this doctnnent assui'cs us that Si]' John I'^ranlc- 
 lin"s ex])e(rnion, having acc()m])lished this examination, 
 returneil southward i'renn latitude 77^ nortli, which is at the 
 head of W'elhugton ( liamiel, and re-entered Barrow's Strait 
 b\- ;i new channel betwe(Mi T)athhui'st and C'oinn\'allis Islands. 
 
 "Selilom ha- such success been accorded to an Arctic 
 navigator in a single season, an.d when tlie Erehtis and Ttrmr 
 were secure(l at l^ieecliey Island h)r the coming winter of 
 18b") -(). the results of tlieir fii'st \'ear"s labor must liax'c been 
 mo-t chei^rinu'. Th(\-e resiilts were the ex])lorati()n of W'el- 
 linu'ton and ()ue(m'.s Channel, and the a(.ldition to oiu' charts
 
 11>2 
 
 TllK CHEAT WlllTK XORTIl 
 
 
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 L f Whoevib finds this paper ii requested to forwird it to the Secretary of y ? j -^ 
 
 <-Nv* the Adminity, London, «-iM <3 n;.v a/" //i^' tint anJ placr at u-hich it vidr-i"^- .3 
 
 f*^^*^ J^uriJ : or, if more conrenient, to deliver it for tlut purpose to the BritislTo 
 
 ConsuJ at the nearest Port. 
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 ■i"^ ' ^ Qbi»coiiqi;j trouTera cc ptpier est prie J'y mai'qucr Ic terns ct lieu out -"^ , « 
 
 i i .Hi '' i'^"'"* tTou»t, et dc Ic fii/c pirrenir au plutot au Sccreuirc de I'Amiraiut^-? ^^ ' 
 
 I ■/ ^ ^ Britannique a Londrc*. 'j'^l ^-i 
 
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 ica de enviarlo al Sccretaril_J J ' ], -j 
 del tiempo y del lugar/^ J ^^^ ^J_ 
 
 j^ , v' } CuALt^ciiBA que hallareeste Papel, se 1 
 
 ' -KJSJ C5 del Almirantizgo. en U.nJres, con una 
 
 , . -i ,J tJonde se halW. ^^ V^_|' ^• 
 
 i -* 'i "^ Een icdcr die dit Papier mogt vindcn, wnrdt hicrn-.cde vcr.-ogt, o:n h«i5 ^ "^ 
 
 t' wtl aan den Sccrctaris dc^ J'*^J^^ 
 hy te voegen eenc Nota^^f--, , 
 
 a» J y :'e!vc, ten spoc,iig'--tc, tc ui 
 
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 li ^ -^ Bfitschc Admiralitct, te I 
 
 i ^ V /^inhoudtnde de lyd en de j 1 
 
 ^*^>^.^ FlNDERiN af dc;;e P:i; iir omledcs naar Lcilighed gives, at semle J'^j-i ^ 
 
 ^ j 1 ,, -i-rnine til Admirantets Sc.'rei.i.rcr. . L.-ndun, ell.-r n.rrmeste EmbedMnand "^^ ' .-X"; 
 
 ii--4 }^ UHn^.rk, Norge, eller Sve;r,g. T.den og St.J.t hvor dette er fundet ^ JU -^ 
 
 ^ ^ . dn-.k- '-'-' • -' ^'^ 
 
 s gcvonden gewordcn^ ."' ^ 
 
 ll 
 
 .slcal-eligt p 
 
 Wbr diesen Zcttel find 
 des A] 
 
 ..„..j-r^? 
 
 f -i . r\ Wbr diesen Zcttel findet, wird hicr-diirch crsucht denselhcn an den _j " ^ ^' ; 
 
 C ^^ g Secrctair des Admiralads in L-,d.on cin/Uscndrn, mit gcfjll.ger ang.lhe , ,i . ~ 
 "■ ^'^'^ an wclchcn ort und 7U wckhcr-/c,t er pcfundelworden iM, J i'j.^ 
 
 
 (;■ ^^ 
 
 
 
 
 -^r- ^ 
 
 <^
 
 ilECOlll) OF FIlAyKLIN'S EXPEDITION IDS 
 
 of the extensive laiitls on either hand. In 1S4G, they ])ro- 
 e(>e(lecl to the soutlnvest, unci eventually n^aehecl within twelve 
 miles of the north extreme of King William Land, when their 
 jjrogress was arrested \)y the a])proaching winter of 1S4G-7. 
 That winter appears to have passed without any sei'ious loss 
 of life, and when in the spring, Lieutenant Gore leaves witli a 
 l)arty for some especial puri)ose, and very probaljly to connect 
 the unknown coast-line of King William Land between Point 
 A'ictory and Cai)e Llerschel, those on Ijoard the Erchus and 
 Terror were 'all well,' and the gallant Franklin still com- 
 manded. 
 
 ''J^ut, alas ! round the margin of the ])ap(>r upon which 
 Lieut (Miant Gore in 1847 wrote those words of hope and prom- 
 ise, another hantl had subsequently written the following 
 words : — 
 
 "^-Vpril 2."), 1848. — H. ]\L ships Terror and Erebu.'< were 
 deserted on the 22d A])ril, 5 leagues X.X.W. of this, h.aving 
 ])een beset since 12th September, 184G. The officers and 
 cr(>ws, consisting of lOo soids, under tlie command of Ga])tain 
 F. I J. AT. Grozier, landed here in lat. 69° 'Al' 42" X., long. 98° 
 41' V\\ Sir John Franklin (Hed on the 11th June, 1847 : and 
 the total loss l)y deaths in the expechtion has been to this date 
 9 officers and 15 men. 
 
 "MSigmMl) 
 '''F. 11. Af. (4'ozier James Fitzjames, 
 
 "''Ga])ta!n and Senior Officer, Ga])tain II. M. S. Erebus, 
 "^and start fon) tomorrow, 2()th for 
 Track's Fisli Pviver.' 
 
 ■'This marginal information was evidently written l)y 
 Gai)tain b'itzjames, (^xce])ting only the note stating when 
 and when> they were going, which was add(xl l)y GaiUain 
 Grozici". 
 
 ■■Th(>i'(^ is s()m(> additional mai'ginal infoi'mation rela- 
 ti\'e to the transfer of the document to its ])resent position 
 o
 
 im rilK GREAT WHITE yOUTU 
 
 (\-iz. tiic >\Xc- of Sir James Ross's ])illar) from a spot four miles 
 to the iiortli\v:ir(l near P(nut \'ictor\'. where it had been orifi;- 
 inall}" (le])o>iteil hy the late ("(jmmander (Jore. Tlii^ httle 
 word Idli' .-hows that he, too, within the twelvemonth had 
 ])asse(l a. way. 
 
 " \n the short sjiace of twelve months, how mournful had 
 become the hi-tory (jf Franklin's expedition ; lujw ehanjif(l 
 from the eiieerful "All well' of ( iraham (Jore I The s])rinii- (jf 
 1817 found them within 1)0 miles of the known sea off the 
 coast of Amei'ica : and to men who had already in tw(j seasons 
 sailed o\-er •")()() miles of ])reviou-ly unex])lored waters, IkjW 
 (•(Hifident must they ha\'e felt that that forthcomin<i; navi,ti'a.bl(! 
 season of 1.S47 would see tludr shi])s ])ass over so short an inter- 
 venin.u' space I It was I'uled otherwise. A\'ithin a month 
 after J.ieuicnant (lore ])laced the record on Point \"ictor\', 
 the nuich-lo\'ed leader of the ex])edition. Sir John Franklin, 
 was dead: and the fidlowinu; >])riii^ fecund Captain ( 'rozier, 
 u])on whom the command had devolved at Kinu' William 
 Land. endea\'orin.u' to >ave his starxdn.ir men. l*).") >ouls in all, 
 from a terrible death by I'etreatin^u' t(j Ilud.-on Bay territories 
 uj) the I^)ack or (Ireat Fi<h lvi\'er. 
 
 "A s:idder tale was never told in fewer wordis. There is 
 soUK-t hin,u' deeply touchin,u' in th('ir extreme >im])licity, and 
 the}' -how in the >t r'on,u'e>t manner that both the leaders in 
 thi- r('i i'eati;ui' ])arty wer(^ actuate(l liy the loftiest sen.-e of 
 duty and met w\\\\ calnmcss and d(-ci-ion the fearful alter- 
 iK!ti\-e of a la-t bold -t ruu-ule foi' life, rather than ))eri.-h with- 
 out effort on board tlu'ir -hip- : for we well know that the 
 Ki'ih-is and 'Ft rrtji' were only ))ro\'i-ioned u]) to July. b'>ls." 
 
 M '( Tnitorj^'- party were now rmminu' -hort of ])ro\"i-ions, 
 but ill'- lindinu' ol' -uch imi)ortant reHc- dctormintMl i),,. leader 
 to ])ur-Mi' tiie -i-arch to the utt('rmo-t limiu- of hi- power.-. 
 
 Hn M.a\- :!() ho wi'iii--: 'AW encamped aloim-ii Jo a larii'e 
 boat — another m('lanc!i(.»l\' relic which llob-on had found
 
 SLEDGE JOriLXEYS 195 
 
 and examined a few days Ijefore, as liis note left here informed 
 m(> ; bnt lie had failed to discover reeorel, journal, pocket- 
 book, or memorandum of any description. A vast quantity 
 of tattennl clothinj;' was lyin<i; in her, and this we first exam- 
 i'acd. Not a sint;i(^ article !)ore the name of its former owner. 
 llie boat was ch^ared out and carefully swei:>t that nothin<2; 
 mi<2;ht escapt^ us. The snow was then removed from about 
 her, but nothing whatever was found." 
 
 After a detailed description of this l)oat, its weight, con- 
 struction, and marks, etc., M'Clintock continues: — 
 
 "But all these were after observations; there was that in 
 the l)oat -which transfixed us with awe. Jt was poi'tions of two 
 human skeletons. One was that of a slight young p(^rson ; 
 the oth(T of a large, strongly made, middle-aged man. The 
 foi'UKM' was found in tho bow of the boat, but in too much dis- 
 turl;>ed a stat(> to enabk^ Ilobson to judge wli(>ther the sufferer 
 had died there ; large and powerful animals, probably wolves, 
 had destroyed much of this skeleton, which may have been 
 that of an of!ic(>r. Near it we found the fragm(Mits of a ])air 
 of worked slippers, of which I give the ])attern, as they may 
 possibly b(> identified. The lines w(M-e white, with a black 
 margin : the sj^aces white, red, and yellow. They had orig- 
 ina!l;\' been 11 IucIk^s long, lined with calf-skin with the hair 
 left on, and the edges bound with red silk ri])l)on. Besides 
 these slii)])<'rs ther(^ were a ])air of small strong shooting 
 half-boots. 
 
 "The otluM- skeleton was in som(nvhat more ])erfect state, 
 and was (Mivelo])ed witli clotlies and furs: it lay across the 
 boat, under the after-thwart. ( 'los(^ besid(> it vere foimd 
 iWv watches : and there were two double-barrelled guns — ■ 
 <')]u^ bari'(-l in each hxulcd and cocked ■— standing muzzle 
 ui)war(ls against the boat's side. It m;}y be imagined with 
 wluit d(H'p intei'cst th(>se sad ri'lics wen- scrutiniz(>d. and how 
 anxioush' cvvvv fragnu-nt of clothing was turned o\'er in
 
 I'.h; 
 
 THE (niEAT Winn: yonrii 
 
 search of ))()('k('ts and ])()ck('t-bo()ks, journals, or oven names. 
 Fi\-e or six small hooks \V(>re found, all of them scriptural or 
 (le\-otional works, except the ' \'icar (jf \\'ak(dield.' One 
 little hook, "Christian Melodies,' hore an inscri]itioti U])()n 
 the title i)a,iz:e fi'om llie donor to (_h ( h ((li'aham (lore?). A 
 small I)ihle contained numerous mai'.uinal notes, and whole 
 ])a-~au'es underlined. Besides these hooks, the cov('i's of a 
 New Testament and Pra\'erhook were- h)und. 
 
 " (Quantities of clothing- and other ai'ticles were of one de- 
 scription and another truly astonishing; in variety and .-uch 
 as, for the most ])art. modern sled<i,'e-tra\'ellers in these re- 
 <i'ion< would consider a mere accumulation of dead wei,a.ht.'"' 
 
 The only pro\'i.-ions that were di.-covered were a little tea 
 and nearl\' forty ]iounds kA chocolate : a small portion of 
 tohacco wa-; al-^o found. 
 
 The iposition of th(> ahandoned hoat was ahout fifty miles 
 as a sledge would travel fi'om Point \'ictory, and thei'cfore 
 sixt\'-{i\-e uiiles fi'om the position of the shi])<, al-o >e\-enty 
 miles from the skeleton of the steward, and oric hundred and 
 fifty mile< from Montreal Island. "A little I'ellection," 
 write> .M"( lintoclv. "ded me to sati-fy my own mind at 
 lea-1, that the hoat ^\'as returnin,!j; to tlie --hii)- : and in no 
 other \vay can I account for two men havinu' heen left in liei', 
 than hy -uppo.-inu' the i)ai't}' wvyv unahle to drau' tlie hdat 
 furtlier, and that the<e two men, not heinu' ahle to keep i)ace 
 witli ll;i'ir -lii])mates. wei'e therefore left hy them .-uppHeil 
 \\'ilh -ui'h pi'o\-i-ion> a- couM he spai'e(l to last until the 
 reiurn of the other- fi'om the >lii]) willi a fre-li storlx. 
 
 '■ \\ lict hci' it wa- the intention of the ret rocedaim' p;iriy 
 
 1m ;iW;:il 1 h<- I'l'-Uh of ;inot Im'I- M'a-on in 1 ln' -hip-, o!' iM fiilliiW 
 the tr;ick of the iii;iin hdijy to tlie (d'eat l''i.-h hi\'er. i- IHtW a 
 
 matter of ci micct ui'e. It .-(cm- hiLi'hl\' ])i'iihahlc that they 
 h;id pui'Mii-i'(l rc\-i-ii iim- tlic hoat. not only on accouiu of tlie 
 t W( I mi'ii left ill chai'iic ot' it, hut also to ohtain the cliocolale.
 
 SLEIJCE .lOVUyEYS VM 
 
 the fh'c watches, and many other articles which wotiid otlier- 
 wise scarcel}' have heen left in her. 
 
 "Th(- same reascjns which may l)e assigned for the return 
 of this detachment from the main body, will also serve to 
 accfjunt for theii' not having come back to th(>ir boat. In 
 Ijoth instances they appear to have greath' overrated their 
 stnMigtli. and the distance they could travel in a given time. 
 
 "Taking this vie-w of tlie case, we can understand why 
 their ])rovisions would not last them for anything like the 
 distance they required to travel, and why they would be 
 obliged {() send back to tlie ships for more, first taking from 
 th(> detached party all provisions they ccmld possibly spare. 
 Whether all or any of the remainder of this detached iJarly 
 evci' i-eached their shi])s is uncertain ; all we know is, that 
 they did not revisit the boat, which accotmts for the al)- 
 s(>nce of more sk(detons in its neiglil:)orhood ; and the Ks(|ui- 
 mos re])()rt that there was no one alive in the shi]) when she 
 drifted on shore, and that but one human body was foimd 
 by them on l)oard of her. 
 
 "Aftei' leaving the l)(jat we followed an irregular coast-line 
 to the X. and X.^\'.. up to a very prominent cape, which is 
 ])robably the extreme of land seen ivoxn Point A'ictory by Sir 
 James Pioss. and named l)y him Point Franklin, which name, 
 as a ca])c. it still retains." 
 
 "I nei'il hardly say," concludes M'Clintock, ''that through- 
 out liie whole of my journey along the shoi'cs of King AVil- 
 liani bail! I I causeil a mo-t vigilant lookout to Ije kept to 
 seaward fi>r miy a])])earance of the strandiMl ship spok(m of by 
 the nati\-es ; our search was. liowe\'er, fruitless in that res])ect." 
 
 (">{ Pieut(-nant II(jbson*s most careful and thorough search, 
 -Al'C lintock vrriles: "He exercised hi< di<creti(jnary )X)wer 
 \\-\\\\ -ound judgment, and c<)m])leted hi- search so well, that 
 in ('oniin<i' o\'ei' tlie same ground after him, 1 could not dis- 
 cover any trace that had esca])ed him."
 
 11)8 TJIK GREAT WHITE SOTITH 
 
 ' )ii the lUtli of June, ArClintock oiiee more reached the 
 Fnx. where he hjiuid Il<)h>oii, who had preceded him b\' five 
 (hi\'s, sick and uiuihle to walk, havin^a; been dragii,('d upon 
 tlie sle(l(ic hjr tiie best part of his return journey. 
 
 A third sle<l,u;iii,a; ])arty imder Captain Young, wliich had 
 left th(> 7tti of Ai)ril, was stiU in the field, and ^^I'Cdintock 
 b(\t;'an to feel so oreat anxiety for their safety that b\' the 
 2."')th of June he set out with four men to search for them. 
 "On the 27th,'" lie writes. "I sent three of the nu-n back to 
 the shi]). and witli Thoni])son and tfie do,iis went on to Pcnn- 
 mican Ivock. \\'hei'e, to our ureat joy, we hap])ily met Y(junir 
 and his j)ai'ty, who had l)Ut just returned there, aftei' a long 
 and succe.-sful journey."' 
 
 It may l)e i)i'iefly st;ite<l that Young was in the field .-eventy- 
 eight da\'s under most trying cii'cumstances. ( 'rossing 
 l'"i'ankrni Strait to Prince of A\'ales Land, he traced its shores 
 to its -oulliern tei'nhnnt ion at ('ape Swinbui'ue. He failed in 
 an attempt to cross AFC 'lintock ( 'hamiel, owing to the ]'ough 
 ice, but he com])lct('d the cxijloi'atiou^ of tin- coa>t l«'yond 
 ()-lH)i'ti"- f;u'th('st to ne:u'ly 7.']' X., al>o exploring botli shores 
 of l'"ranklin .^ti'ait l)et^\'een the Fux and ]io>s's farthest in 1819 
 and Hro\\'n"< in 1 s.ll . 
 
 The return of llie /*'",r to I'^iiLi'land was iKjt acc()in])lisli(Hl 
 without dl[h(Mih\', owinu' to tlie deatii of the etui'ineei', wiiich 
 olilieed ]\r( 'jinloek to stand by the engine no le>s than 
 t wetity-t'oui' con<ecuti\-e hour<, on one occa-ion. Ilti\ve\'er, 
 tliey readied Port-mouth, .'^eptembei- 21. l^.V,). 
 
 "'I'iie relie< we havc brouu'ht home."" wi-ite- (';t))tain 
 M '' Tmi ocic, ill eonchi-ion, 'dia\'e been depD-ite.l l)y the Ad- 
 mir:!lt\- in tiie bnited Serx'ice In-t it ul i(;n, anil n.ow form a 
 natiim,-!! memento - ilie most simple and mo-t toucliing — ■ 
 of t til )~e lii'i'i lie jiien who i)eri-hed ill t he ])at li of duly, but not 
 mitil tiicy liiid ai'liie\-ed llie <j,l';Uid object of tludr Vo\'age, — - 
 tlie 1 )i-^ro\r;\- of llie Nol't h-"\\e-t Pa--aire."
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 The pccoiid ririnnoll expedition. Commanded by Dr. Elislia K. 
 Kane. — Winter (juarters in Renrf.selaer Harbour. — Sled2,'ing 
 trip.s. — To the re.scue. — -Effects of exhaustion and cold. — Dr. 
 Kane's journey. — Creat Glacier of Humboldt. — Return and 
 illness of Dr. Kane. — Second wintei' in the ice. — Privations and 
 suttering. — Abandonment of the T'//'fl/(fe. — Ileti'eat and rescue. 
 
 Mi-:xTiox has already l)ccn made of the second Griuncll 
 cx!)e(liti(jn. coniinanded by T^r. Kane and financed by Mr. 
 Crinnell and ^.Ir. Peabody of LondcMi. Dr. Kane's insfrtie- 
 tions from the Xavy Department at Washington, dated 
 November 27. bS.")2. road as follows : — 
 
 "Sik: — Lady Fi'anklin having iirg(Ml you to tmdortake a 
 searcli for her huslxmd, Sir John Franklin, and his eom])an- 
 ions. and a \'e.— el, the A'Irntirr, having l)een })laced at your 
 dis])o<ition by [Mr. Oriimell, you are hei'(>by a-sign(Ml to 
 sjx'cial duty for the ]:)tu"])ose of conducting an overland jotu'- 
 n(\\'fr()m tiieu]^])or waters of Baffin's Pa}' to the shores of the 
 Pohu- Seas. 
 
 ■■Relyinii' u])ou your zeal and discretion, tlie De])artment 
 sends you forth u])on an undertaking which will 1)(> attended 
 wilh gi'eat pci'll and ex])osui'e. Tru>ling tlmt you will 1)0 
 su-iained by tlic laudalile object in view, and wishing you 
 sticcess and a >iiU' I'etui'u 1o your fi'iend>. T am, 
 
 '■ Pu'spef'tfully, your obe(lient scrN'ant, 
 
 "Jonx P. Kkxxedy. 
 '"Pa--ed Assistant Surgeon E. K. Kane, 
 " Enitcd States Xavy. Phihulel])hia." 
 
 The small bi'ig Aflriuicc, oue. hundiMMJ and forty-ton-' b/ur-
 
 lOi) 
 
 Till-: CHEAT WHITE yoirrii 
 
 (Icn, with s('\-('n{(MMi ])ick('(l num besides the coiniiuinder, 
 sailed IVoni New ^'ork on the .'JOtli of Alay, ISoi^, "escorted 
 by se\-ei';d nol)k' steamers; and, ])assing slowly on to the 
 Narrows amid salutes and chcM'rs of farewelL" 
 
 At 1h(^ end of eiu;ht(M>n days tlie Advuncc had reached St. 
 John's, Xewfoundhiiid, wliere (iovernor Hamilton, a brother 
 to the secretary of tlie P>i'itish Admiralty, and othei' officials, 
 combined with the inhabitants to welcome the exjX'dition. 
 r])on sailin<^' once more, Dr. Kane was ])resented with u 
 noble team of Xewfoundland do,ti;s, the ,u;ift of the jiovernoi-. 
 
 The Adnnicc reached P>aifin liay without incident, and a 
 few days later found her off the coast of (Ireenland, ma]-:in,u; 
 her wa.y b) l-'isdernaes, which was reached the 1st of .Jul\', — 
 "amid the clamor of its entire ])oi)ulation, assembled on 
 the rock to <i,i'eet us." 
 
 Ib'i'e a nati\'(^ I'^kimo, Hans C'ln'istiiuisen, was en.u'asecl as 
 interpreter for the ex])edition. The Adiaiicc then jji-oceeded 
 across Alelville P^ay in the wake of vast iceber<is, dodtiinti- to 
 the rear of these hu.^e floatin,a; masses, holdin.ti,' on to them 
 when ad\'erse winds became anno\'in<i', and i)ressin,u' foi'ward 
 as o])|)ort unit>' offered. Idie ])rom()ntory of Swai'tehuk was 
 passed by the Kith. The followinjj; day the Ailvancc an- 
 chored at Proven, where Dr. Kane was warmly welcotned 
 by his old fi'iend ( 'hrisi iansen, the superintendent. H(>re 
 he made necessary ])urclia,ses of furs, and these were ^])eedily 
 m;ide into suitalile uarments by tli(> sui)erintenden1 's wife and 
 liei' ;i>-istants. A\'hile the briii' sailed leisiu'cly up the coast, 
 Katie >et out in the whale-boat to make pin'cha-e> of doii's 
 amon.u' the nali\'es of the difl'ei-ent set t lenient^. After a two 
 <!:iy--' stay at 1 periia\'ik, the Adraiia ])r()cee(led on her 
 ciiiir-c ;nid i)a~-ed in >iicce>si( »n the Iv-kimo setllement of 
 l\in'j.;iliik, the Kettle, ;i nionnlaiii toj) <o named from lli(> 
 ri-( ml 'f-iiKM' (if it- profile, and finally Zottik, the t'arthest 
 point 1)1' !•( iloni/at ion.
 
 rilE SECOXI) an IN NELL EXP EDIT [OX 201 
 
 In('liiiin<>; moro directly to the north, she sijihted the huid- 
 iiiark known 'as the Hors(>'s Head, and hiter Ducks Islands, 
 and made for Wilcox Point, which was passed on the 27th 
 of July. The 2d of August found them well in the ice and 
 harassed by fogs, but the floes opened at intervals, allowin<>; 
 the shi]) to niak(^ hc^r slow progress through them. The north 
 wat(n' was comparatively free from obstructions, and l)y the 
 5th th(\v had ])assed the "Crimson Cliffs" described by Sir 
 John Koss ; two days later they doubled Cape Alexander, 
 and i)assed in to Smith Sound. At Littleton Ishmd they 
 stopjx^d to de})osit a boat and sup})ly of stores. On August 8 
 tlu^ ship ck>sed with the ice and bored her way through the 
 loose str(nun ice some forty miles beyond Life Boat Co\e, when 
 it IxH'ame impossible to force her way any farther, and. says 
 Kane : "A dense fog gathering round us, we were carrier 1 
 h(4pk^ssly to the eastward. We should have ])cen forced 
 ui)on the (ireenland coast, but an eddy close in shore re- 
 leas(Kl us for a few moments from direct pressure, and w(^ 
 were fortunate (mough to get out a whale-line to the rocks 
 and warp into a ])rotecting niche." 
 
 The following day he writes: "It may be noted among 
 our littk^ mis(M-i(^s that we have more than fift}^ dogs on 
 board, tlu^ majority of whom might ratliei' be characterized 
 a< 'ravcMiing wolves.' To feed this family u])on Avliose 
 strength o\U' iirogress and success depend, is really a diffi- 
 cult niatt(n-. The absemce of shore or land ice to the south in 
 Bafhn Bay has ]or(n'(>nted our riflc^s from contriljuting any 
 material aid to our connnissariat. Our two bears lasted th(> 
 cormorants ])ut eight days; and to f(>ed them uj^on 1h(^ 
 m(^agr(^ allowance of two ])ounds of raw fh^sh ovvvy oIIkm* da>' 
 is an tdmost i]n])o~-sl])le n(H'(^ssity. Only yesterday they 
 \vrrc read\' (o eat the cal)0(.)se u]), f(U- I would not gi\"e them 
 ])emniican. Corn meal or beans, which Peiiney's dogs fed 
 (HI. they disdain to touch ; and salt junk would kill ihem.
 
 202 THE CRKAT U'lIirE NORTH 
 
 " Acc()r(lin.u'ly, I started out tliis mornin,^; to hunt walrus, 
 witli which tlu' Sound is te(;niing. We saw at least fifty of 
 these dusky monsters, and approached many groups within 
 twenty ])aces. But our rifle balls nn-erberated fron^i tlnnr 
 hides like cork pellets from a pop-gun target, and W(^ could 
 not get within har])oon distance of one. Later in the day, 
 however, ()hls(>n, climbing a neighboring hill to scan tlie 
 horizon and see if the ice had slackened, found the dead 
 carcass of a narwhale or sea-unicorn ; a liapjiy discovery, 
 which has >ecurcfl for us at least six lumdred pounds of good, 
 fetid, wholesome fi(\-h. The length of the narwhale was 
 fourteen feet, and his process, or 'horn,' from tli(^ tip to its 
 l)ony encasement, four feet. . . . AVe Ijuilt a fire on the 
 rocks, and melted down liis l)lubber : lie will yield readily 
 two barrels of oil." 
 
 The condition (jf the ice, furious gales, and the fast approach- 
 ing winter all combined to dishearten the crew, wlio with 
 one exce])tion desired to relui'u south and find winter rjuar- 
 ters. Dr. Kane, ll0^\•(n'el•, determined to ])U>h northward, 
 and fiiuilly located in Ivenssela(>r Ilarljour 7S" 87' X., 71^ V\ . 
 ]W the lOlh of Se])tember. the long "night in which no man 
 can work"' was clo<e at hand: the thermometei' stood at 14^; 
 every ])repai'at ion Was made for wintei'ing; a storehouse \\'as 
 erecte<l at I)Uller I>I;md : an astronomical observatory 
 arrang('(l at a short distance from the shi]). 
 
 '■I>('sid('s ])re])ai'ing our \\inter (|uartcrs." wi'ites Dr. 
 Kane. "I am enuaged in the ])reHniinai'y arrangement:- h)r 
 m\' j)ro\a-ii)n (U'pots along the (ireenland coast. Air. Ken- 
 ned\- i<. I l)(-lie\-e, the only one of m\' ])redec('S>()rs who has 
 u-ed (h'tobei- ;tiid Xox'eiiiber foi' Arctic field work; but I 
 deem it impoi't atit to oui' nio\'emen1< ilui'ing the wintf'T and 
 spl'ilill'. that depot- in ad\'alice should be made belore the 
 dai'k'iie--; -et< in. I pui'po-e arraiiii'inii' three ol them at in- 
 ter\-al-. --■ ])U-hin,ii; them as tar forwai'd a,- I can. - to con-
 
 DR. ELI SUA K. KANE 203 
 
 tain in all sonic twelve hundred pounds of ])rovision, of which 
 ci,i:;lit hundred will be ])eininican.''' 
 
 1\) this (>nd one hundrcnl and twenty-five miles of the 
 (irccnland coast was traced to the north and east; the largest 
 of th(> three depots was located on an island in latitude 
 7(f 12' (•)", and longitude iS'f 25'. 
 
 By tlu^ 2()tli of Xoveniber, the darkness made field work 
 imi)ossil)le, and for on(^ hundred and twenty days the little 
 band of Arctic ex])lorers endured the weariness and bitter 
 cold of the long night. 
 
 "On the 17th of January,"' writes Dr. Kane, "'our tlier- 
 monu^ters stood at forty-nin(^ degrees l)elow zero; and on 
 the 20th the range of those at the observatory was at —64° 
 to — ()7°. The temperature on the flo(~s was always some- 
 wliat higher than at the island ; the difference being dti(>, 
 as 1 su])])ose, to tlu^ heat conducted from th(> sea-Avater, 
 which was at a tem]:)eratur(> of +20°; the susjicuided instru- 
 ments ])eing affected by radiation. 
 
 "On the oth of Fe])rtiary, our tluu'mometcn's began to show 
 unexam]d(Ml tem])eratiu'e. 'rh(\\' ranged from ()0° to 7")° 
 below zero, and one very reliable insti'unient stood U])()n 
 the taffrail of our l)rig at — O.")". The reduced m(>an of our 
 best spirit-staudai'ds gav(^ —07°, or 00° below the fr(H:'zing- 
 jvjint of watcn-. 
 
 "At th(>se temi)eratur(>s chloiic ether becami^ solid, and 
 carefully pre])ai'ed chloroform exhibitcHl a granular ])ellicle on 
 its surfju'c. Si)irit of n.aphtha froze at —h\°, and oil of winter- 
 green was in a tlocculent state at — 5t)°, and solid at — 1)3° 
 and — i).'j°. 
 
 ■"The (whalations fi-om the surfac(^ of the botly inve-l(d 
 the ex])osed or ])artiall\' clad ])arts with a A\'reath of vapor. 
 The air had a ])erc(>])tible ])ungencv U])on insi)iration. but I 
 could not ])ei'ceive th(^ ])ainrul s(Misation which has bemi 
 spoken of by some Siberian travellers. AMien breathed for
 
 20i v///-; UHEAT WHITE NOlilll 
 
 any l(Mi,<ith of time, it iin])art('(l a sensation of dryness to the 
 air-))a>.-a,u('s. 1 noticed that, as it wvvv involuntarily, we ail 
 breathed <iuard(>dly, with eonii)ressed h])s." 
 
 The de])ressin_(;- inliuenei- of such low teni))eratures affeeted 
 both man and beast. The ])oor do<i;s suffered keenly, and 
 man}' of them died of affections of the brain, whicli beii;au 
 with tlie same sym])toms of fits, lunacy, and lockjaw. The 
 loss of fift\'-seven of tliese bi'ave animals seriously affected 
 1 )i'. Kane's ])lans. Tlu" crew were <2;reatly depleted by 
 scur\-y and almost imfit for the arduous work i)lanne(l h)r 
 the (>arly s])rin,i;'. 
 
 ''An Arctic ni<;ht and an Arctic day," remarks l^r. Kane, 
 "age a man more I'ajjidly and hai'shly than a year anywhere 
 else ill the world." 
 
 ]'^arly in March a sledjiinji' ])arty was orti'anized to ascer- 
 tain whether it were ])racticable to force a way over the 
 crowded ber.<i,s and moimtainous ice to the north. An ad- 
 vance cor])s was sent out to ])lace a de])ot of ])rovisions at a 
 suitable di>taiice from the briii;. 
 
 Ahirch 20, Dr. Kane writes as follows : — 
 
 "I saw the de])ot ])art\' off yesterda}'. They ji'ave the 
 u^ual three cheers, with three f(.)r myself. I ,<i;a\'e them the 
 whole of my brother's <ireat v.'eddiiiu-cake and my last two 
 bottles (if Port, and they ])ulled the slcdtie thc\' w<'re har- 
 n('--e(l to famously. \\\i\ I was not satisfied. I could see it 
 was hartl work; and, besiiles, tliey were without the boat, 
 or eiiouuh extra pemmican to make theii' depo-it of im- 
 ])ortaiice. I h»llowed th(Mii, thei'efore, and I'ound that they 
 eiic;ii!ipcd at S p.m. only fi\-c mile< from the briu'. 
 
 'A\iicii 1 (»\-('r!o(ik them, I said iiothiiiu,' to di-courasic 
 tln-m, and ,u'a\'<' no new oi'dcrs foi' the morniiiii' : but after 
 lauiihiii'j, at udoil ( )hl-eirs ruei'ul face, and listening to all 
 l'et(-i--en'- a>>iir;mce- tliat the cold and nothing liUt the cold 
 retarded hi> (ii'eenl.aiid >led,ti;e, and that no sleilge of an\'
 
 WINTER QUARTERS IN RENSSELAER HARBOUR 205 
 
 other construction could have been moved at all through 
 — 40° snow, I quietly bade them good-night, leaving all hands 
 under their liuffaloes. 
 
 "Once returned to the brig, all my tired remainder men 
 were smmnoned ; a large sledge with board runners which 1 
 had built somewhat after the neat xVdmiralty model sent 
 nu^ by Sir Francis Beaufort, Avas taken down, scrapcnl, 
 polislied, lashed, and fitted with track ropes and rue-raddies ; 
 the lin(\s arranged to draw as near as possible in a line with 
 the ('(Mitre of gravity. 
 
 ''We made an entire cover of canvas, with snugly ad- 
 justcnl fastenings ; and by one in the morning we had our 
 discarded excess of pemmican and th(^ boat once mor(i in 
 stowag(\ Off we went for the camp of the sleepers. It was 
 very cold, but a thoroughly Arctic night ; the snow just 
 ting(Ml with tlie crimson stratus above the sun, which, eciui- 
 noctial as it was, glared beneath the northern horizon like a 
 sm(4ting-furnace. W(^ found the tent of the party by the 
 l)eariugs of the stranded l)ergs. Quietly and stealthily we 
 hauled away their Eskimo sledge, and placed her cargo 
 upon the Faith. 
 
 ''Fiv(^ men were then rue-raddied to the track-lines, and 
 with the whispered word, 'Xow, boys, when Air. Brooks 
 gives his tliird snore, off with you !' off they went, and the 
 Faith after them, as free and nimbk^ as a volunteer. The 
 trial was a triumpli. We awakened the sl(H>pers with three 
 cheers ; and, giving them a second good-by, returned to the 
 brig, cai'rying the dishononHl vehicle along witli us. And 
 now, bating mishaps past anticipation, I shall have a de])ot 
 for my long trip. 
 
 "The ]:)arty were seen by AlcOary from aloft, at noon to- 
 day, moving easily, and al)Out twelve miles from the brig." 
 
 I'^Jcn^en da,}'s lat(M-, March .'U, Dr. Kane writes : — 
 
 "We were at work cheerfully, s(nving away at th(> skins of
 
 •20 C) 
 
 THE (iUKAT WIIITK yoimi 
 
 soiuf nK)ccasins ])y thf blaze of our lani])s, whfii. t^owarfl mid- 
 niulit, \vc heard llie n()i>e of >le]).s above, and the next minute 
 Soiuitau'. ' )hl>('n. and l^'tersen came down into tlie cabin. 
 Their manner startled me even more than theii' tmexjiected 
 a])i)earance on Ijoard. d'hey were .swollen and ha,U'gard, 
 and hardly able \i) s])eak. 
 
 "Their story was a tearful one. The>' had left their com- 
 ])anions in the ice, i'i<kinu' their own li\'(\s to briny; us the 
 new> : I^rooke, l-5akc'r. Wdlson. and Iderre were all lyinii 
 frozen and di-ablcd. Where? They coidd not tell: some- 
 where in amonu' the liuimnocks to the north and east: it 
 wa> driftiiiii,' he;ivily I'ound them when they partf'd. Irish 
 Tom liad stayed by to feed and rare for the others : but the 
 ehanees wer(- -orely au'ainst them. It was in vain t() (jue.-- 
 tion tlu'in further. They had e\-ideiiily travelle(l a .U'l'eat 
 di-taiice. for they were siidvint: with fatitine and hun,2,er, 
 and eould }iard!\' be rallied enouy,'h to tell u.- the (hrection 
 in whieh they had eome.'" 
 
 '■.My fir-t iiujiuke,"" eontinue- Dr. Kane. ''Ava- to move c>n 
 tlie in.-tant with an uiU'ncumbered iiarty : -d re-cue to be 
 effective or e\'('n li(i])eful. conhi noi be too ])i'onn)t. Wdiat 
 pre.--ed on my mind mo-t wa-. Aviiei-e \]\c <u:fei-(':-- were to 
 lie looked for amonu' the drift-. < )hl<en >f'emed to ha\'e his 
 facuhif- rallier more at cotmnand than hi- a--ociate>. and 
 I thoULiiit that he miii'lit a—i-t u- a< a ,uiuile : but he Was 
 -inlviiiii' with e\hau-lion, anil if he went Wf' mu-l caiT\' 
 him. 
 
 "d'iiere \va- not a mo!iif'!it to Ik' lo-t. \Miile -ome \vrre 
 -till l)U-y with th" newcdUicT- anil ii'ettinii' reaiiy a ha-ty 
 nc-al. odie;-- Were I'i'^Liini: oi;t the /./'//( W'iU't will, a, liuiVaio 
 co\-fi'. a -;iiall t ent . aiii 1 a pacisau" of ])emini''an : and. a- -oon 
 a- \'.^e coiiM lairfx' ihi'oiiLih ou!' a rranui'tiient -. ( *ckeii wa< 
 -iraoiied ,,ji ii! a fill' I'.au. M- I'-'j:- wrapped ii: dn::— kin- and 
 eii ii'T-'lown. and \\'e were off upon ihe ice. ( )ur ])arty con-
 
 SLEDGING TRIPS 207 
 
 sistod of nine men and myself. We carried only the clothes 
 on our Ixicks. TIk; thermometer stood at — 4G^, 78° below 
 the freezing-point. 
 
 "A well-known peculiar tower of ice, called l)y the men the 
 'Pinnacly Berg,' served as our first land-mark; other ice- 
 b(>rgs of colossal size, which stretched in long beaded lines 
 across tlu> bay, helped to guide us afterward ; and it was 
 not until we had travelled for sixteen hours that we began to 
 lose our way. 
 
 "^^'c knew tliat our lost companions must be somewhere 
 in the area Ijefore us, within a radius of forty miles. Air. 
 Ohls(^n, who had be(^n for fifty hours without rest, fell asleep 
 as soon as w(^ began to move, and awoke now with unequiv- 
 ocal signs of mental disturbance. It became evident that 
 h(^ had lost th(^ bearing of the icebergs, which in form and 
 color endl(^ssly repeated themselves ; and the uniformity 
 of th(^ vast field of snow utterly forbade the hope of local land- 
 marks. 
 
 'Tusliing ahead of the party, and clambering over some 
 rugg(Hl ice ]:iiles, I came to a long level floe, which I thought 
 midir ]irol);il)ly have attracted the eyes of weary men in 
 cii'cujn<tances like our own. It was a light conjecture ; but 
 it was (Miough to turn the scale, for there was no other to 
 balance it. T gave orders to abandon the sledge, and dis- 
 perse in se-arch of footmarks. 
 
 ''Wo r;ii.-ed our tent, placed our pemmican in cache, ex- 
 ce]^t a small allowance f(.)r each man to carry on his jierson ; 
 and poor Ohls(>n, uow just abl(> to k(^e]) h.is legs, was libcn-ated 
 from hi< bag. The tliei'monu^ter had fallen by this time to 
 — 49" ?)', and the wind was s(4ting in sharply fi'om the north- 
 west. 
 
 "It was out of t]i(> qu(vtion to halt ; it r(Y|uired l)risk ex(T- 
 ci^e to keep us fi-om freezing. I cotild not even melt ice for 
 water : and, at tliese temperatures, any resort to snow for
 
 208 Tilt: (niEAT wiiriE yonru 
 
 the ])Ui'])()s(" of allayiii,u' thirst was followed by bloody li])s 
 and toii<i;u(' ; it hui'iit like caustic. 
 
 " It was iiulispcnsahlc then that wc should move on, lookinj^' 
 out tor traces as wc went. Yet when the men were ordei'cd to 
 s])read theniseh'es, so as to nnilti})ly the chances, thouj^h the\' 
 all obeyed heartily, some painful impress of solitary dano'cr, 
 or ])erhaps it may luu'c been the var\'inji,- confi,u;urati()n of the 
 ice-field, ke])t them clo>in<>; U]) continually int(j a singl(> ^'roup. 
 The stran.u;e mannei' in which some of us were affected I now 
 attribut(^ as nuich U) shattered nerves as to the direct influ- 
 ence of the cold. Men like AIc(iar>' and Bonsall, who had 
 stood out our severest marches, were seized with trembling- 
 fits and short breath ; and. in s])ite of all my efforts t(j kec]) 
 U]) an exam])le of sovmd bearing, I fainted twice on the snow. 
 
 "We had been neai'ly ei<ihteen houi's out without water 
 or food, when a new lio])e cheered us. I think it was Hans, 
 our I->kimo Inmter, who thou,^ht he saw a bi'oad slediix^ 
 track. Tlie drift luid nearly effaced it, and we were some 
 of us doubtful at first whether it was not one of tho>e acci- 
 dental rifts which the ;Li:ales make in the surface-snow. ViWX, 
 as we ti-aced it on to the d(>e]) snow amon<i the hununocks, we 
 were led to footsteps: and, followin.u' these with reli.tiious 
 care, wc at la-t cam(> in sisi'lit of a small Amei'ican tla.u' flut- 
 tcriim- fi'om ;i hummock, and lower down a little Masonic 
 b;imicr haiiuinu- from a teiit-])ole liai'dly abov(> the drift. 
 It \va< the c;im]) of our disabled coim'ades : we reached it 
 after an unbi-ol;en mai'ch of twenty-one hours. 
 
 ••'riic httie lent was nearly covered. I was not amoiiu' the 
 fir-t t<» come up: but. when I reached the t etil-eurlaiii, the 
 men \\{-vc -ta^di^^■ in -ilep.1 file on each -ide oi it. Willi 
 more kilidne-- ;iiid delic'icx- of feeliiiu,- tha!i i- often -U])po-ed 
 to belotm to -ailoi'-, but which is almo-t characteristic, they 
 intimated tlieii' wi-li tliat I -hould u'o in alone. A- 1 crawled 
 in, and, cimiinu, U|)on the darkne>.-, heard before me the
 
 TO THE RKSCl'E 209 
 
 l)urst of w(4c()iii(> ^hulncss that came from tlic four ])oor 
 fellows stretched on their Ijacks, and then for tlie first time 
 the clieer ()ntsid(\ my weakn(\ss and my jiratilude to^'ether 
 ahnost o\'ereame me. 'Tliey had ex])ected me : they were 
 sure I would eom(> !' 
 
 "W'v were now fifteen souls ; the thermonu^ter s(n'enty-five 
 d(\U'rees below the freezing-})oint ; and our sole acconnnoda- 
 tion a tent barely able to contain eight persons ; more than 
 half our party wen^ obliged to keep from freezing by walk- 
 ing outside v,'hile th(> others slept. A\'e could not halt long. 
 Each of us took a turn of two hours' sleep ; and we prepared 
 for our liomeward march." 
 
 Continuing his spirited narrative, Dr. Kane describes 
 the I'etreat : — 
 
 "It was fortunate indeed that \vv were not inexpcM'ienced in 
 sledging ovei' the ice. A great ])art of oiu' track lay among 
 a succession (jf luunmocks ; some of tluun extending in long 
 linens, fifteen and twenty feet high, and so uniformly ste(>p that 
 we had to turn them by a considerable deviation from our 
 dii'ect course ; otliers that wv forc(Ml our way through far 
 above oui' ht^ads in height, lying in ])arallel ridges, with the 
 space Ix'tween too narrow for the sle(lge to be l()W(>red into 
 il safely, and yet not wide enough for th(> runners to cross 
 without tlie aid of i'o])(>s to sta\- them. These s])aces, too, 
 were generally chocked with light snow, hiding lh(^ o])enings 
 between tlu^ ice-fi'agmeuts. They were fearful tnii)s to dis- 
 engage a limb from, for ev(M'y man knew lluit a fi'acture or 
 a s])rain even would co>t him his lite. Tie-ides all this, th(> 
 >ledge was to]) lie;t\-y \\-ith its load : the maime<I men could 
 liot bear to be lashed dowu tight enough to seiau'c them 
 agaiii-t f.'illing off. 
 
 ".Notwithstanding our caution in I'ejecting every sujier- 
 ihiou- bui'deii, the weight, including bags and tent, was elev(ai 
 hundred pounds.
 
 210 
 
 THE GREAT WHITE SOUTH 
 
 "And yet (jur march for the first six hours was vfry clioer- 
 \\\]l. We made \)y vi<i'or(jus i)ulls and hfts nearl\' a mile 
 an h<jur. and reached the new iloes before we were ahs(jhiteiy 
 Weary. Hur slcdiic >u-taine(l the trial adniiraoly. (jhlsen, 
 rc.-tor(Ml l)y hope, walked >teadily at the l('adin,<i: Ix'lt of the 
 slcduc lines : and 1 hcoan to feel certain of reaching' om' half- 
 way station of the day before, where we had left our tent. Hut 
 we were still nine niik-s from it, when, alnifjst without ])remo- 
 nition, we all becauKj aware of an alarmin"; failure of our ener- 
 
 "I was, of cotu'sc, familiar with the benumbed and almost 
 lei hai',ii,ic sensation of extreme cold; and once, when ('X- 
 ])()-ed f(jr -(.)me hours in the midwinter of Jjaflin's Jiay. I had 
 exjjcrieiiced ,-yni])t(»m> which I com])a.re(l to the diffused 
 ])aral\'sis of the elect i'o-,ualvanic shock. J^mt 1 had treated 
 the •-■/(' /^'7 cditifdii of frc'cziriji,' as .-omethin,t!,' like the embel- 
 li>hment of I'omance. 1 had (■N'idence now to llie contrary. 
 
 "Pjon-all and .Mortcjn. tA\'o of ^aiy stoute-t \n(-\\. came Xo 
 me. l)eii<iiieu' ]X'rnii><ion to .-lee]): "d'he}' were not cold; 
 th(- wind did, not enter them now ; a little- -lee]) wa,- all they 
 Waiitedi." Pi'(--eiitly Hans wa- found nearl\' -tiiV under a 
 drift ; and Thomas, bolt ti]ii'iu'ht. had hi- (-ye.- clo-eil. aiid 
 could h;irdl\- articulate. At la-t, .John Pdad^e thre\v him.-elf 
 on the snow, and I'cfu-eil to ri-c ddii'\' did not com])lain of 
 fci-Hicj,- Cold; b'Ul it wa- in \'ain that I wi'e-t ],.i!. box(-d. 
 ram arum-d, ji-ei'eih (,r rejjrimantled ; an iiiune(li;it e halt 
 could not be ;i\-oidcd. 
 
 ■A\'f tiiii'hed our tejit \\\\\i mucli difficulty. Hiir hand,< 
 
 Wi-l'e to(i ] lOW'i'rIe-- to -tl'ike a fire; we Wel'e obliii'eil 1o (jo 
 without Wit'ii- or I'liod. M\'i-li the -])irii- whi-ki'\' l:;cl 
 fro/! 1! at liie men'- leet . under all the co\'el illli-. We put 
 l>oti~:i!l. ( »;il-i'n. d"hom;i-. ;inil Hall-, with the other -ii'k ukii. 
 Wi'ii ili-idi' till- ti-lit, ;iiiil cfoWili-d ill a- maliy obl.i-r- :i- we 
 could, d'heii. |ia\-ini:- the jiarty in charii,-e of Mr. Mcliary,
 
 EFFECTS OF FXIIAFSTIOX AND COLD 211 
 
 with ordors to come on after four hours' rest, I pushed ahead 
 Avitl'i ^\'i^ialn (u)dfr(>\-, who V(jhuiteered to l)e my eoni]ian- 
 ion. ^ly aim was to reach the halfway tent, and tliaw some 
 ice and ijemmican before th(> others arrived. Tlie fioe was 
 of l(ve! ice, and tlie waU^inji excdh^nt. 1 cannot tell how 
 lon,u' it took us to make the nine miles; for we were in a 
 stran<i-(^ sort of stupor, and had litrie apprehension of time. 
 It was ])r()l)ril)ly al)OUt four hours. Wo kopt ourselves 
 awake by impo.-inp; on each (jther a continual articulation of 
 wirrds ; they must have b(>en incoherent enough. I vvcuW 
 these hours as among the most wretched I have ovov gone 
 througli : we were neither of us in our right senses, and re- 
 tained a very confuscnl ix-colkn'lion of what preceded our 
 arri\'al at the tent. W'e botli of us, however, renuMiiber a 
 ])ear. who walked leisurely before us anrl tore up as he w(^nt 
 a jum])er that Air. AlcClary had impro^'idently thrown off the 
 day Ix'fore. fie tore it into shi'eds and rolled it into a ball, 
 but never offered to int(>rfere witli om- jirogress. I remember 
 tliis, and with it a confused sentiment that our tent and 
 [iutfalo robes nnight ]^i'obably sliai'e the same fat(-. (lod- 
 fivy, with whom the mcnioi'y f)f this day's work may aton(> 
 f(»i- man\' fault- of a later time, had a better eye than myself : 
 and. lo )kin'j; som(^ miles ahead, he could see tliat our tent 
 wa- undergoimr the same unceremonious treatment. I 
 tliouuhl I s:iw it, to(\ liut we were so drunk(-n Avitli cold 
 th:iT Ave strode on st(>adil\', and. for aught I know, without 
 (|iiicl^('iiing ou!' ]:iace. Pi'obably our n])]iroac}i sav(Ml the 
 c<)iil("nt< of tlie teii1 : for when w(^ j'eaclied it th(> tent was 
 uniiijui'ed. tliough tlie l)ear h,;id overturned it, tos>ing the 
 i)i!i'i'al() robes and ))ennnican into the snow : we mi.-sed only 
 :i '-oujjle of bhmket-bngs. \\'hat we I'ecollect, however, and 
 ]>: rliaps all W(- I'ecolicd , is, ihnt we luul si'reat difficulty 
 in rai-iniz il . \\'e 'M'awled inio our reinder-r slce])inij:-bags. 
 u'illiouT .-peaking, and for tb.e next tln-cf horn-- -le]>t on in a
 
 L'l: 
 
 THE CUKAT WHITE yORTII 
 
 drcatii}' and intense slumlxT. When I awoko, my k)ng 
 Ix'ard was a mass of ice frozen fast to the l)iilfalo-skin ; 
 (iodfrey had to cut me out with his jaekknife. Four days 
 after our esca])e, 1 found my woollen eomfortakle \vitli a 
 U'oodly >hare of m\' heard >lill adherin<i to it. 
 
 "We were aiile to melt water and .u'et some sou]) cooked 
 before the i-e>t of oui' ])arty arrive(l : it 1(^ok tliem hut fix'o 
 hour.'- to walk the nine miles. They were doin,u' well, and, 
 (•on-iderin,ii; the circumstances, in wonderful spirits, ddie 
 da>' was most ])rovidentiall\' windle.-s. with a ck'ar sun. All 
 enjoy((l the I'efre-hment we had ,u'ot I'eady. The crippled 
 were re])acked in their i-ohes : and we s])e(l hji-kly towai'di the 
 hummock-i'idLi'es which la\' between tis and the Pinnacly 
 kSeru-. 
 
 ■'Idle hummocks we had now to meet came ])ro])ei'ly under 
 the de-iuiiation of s(jueeze(l ice. A u.'reat chain of heru's 
 stretchinu' from northwe-t to southea>t, moA'in.ii' with th(^ 
 tide>, had compi'e»ed the surface-floe> : and. rearin.U' them 
 U]^ on their ediix^-. ])i'oduced an area more like tln' \'olcanie 
 ])eilrfu'al of the ha-in of Mexico than anything- el-(' I can 
 com])ai'e it to. 
 
 "It I'Cfiuil'ed dc-])erate effort- to Woi'k oU!' v»'ay ovei' it. — 
 liter;ill>' de-pci'ate. U>r oui' >l!'enulh faih'd u- anew, and we 
 lie!j.-;in lo lo-i' our ><'ll'-con1 1'ul. W'c could not ah-tain au\' 
 lotui'ei' fi'om eatinu' -now; our moulh- -welleil, and -ome of 
 u- lM-r;tme -pcechle--. Happily the day wa- Warmed by a 
 elf;ir -un-iiiui'. and the 1 licruK .meter ro-e to ~\ in the 
 -h.-ide : ( )i !icrwi-c we mii-t ha\"i' fruzcn. 
 
 "I'ur halt- muhiiihi'd. and we tell half— Irejiinu' on the 
 .-Iiiiw. I I'diild hdl pi'i'\-<-nl U. Stl'an^e in -ay, it i-rfri-hcd 
 II-. I \"i'!itur(d up<Ui ihc experiment my-eh'. makinu' Rile\' 
 \\'ake !|||. ai the end n\ ihree miiiut'--; and I felt -n much 
 beiiefi; I'd 1 ,y il l|i;it 1 liliKM 1 1 he men il! 1 he -anie way. They 
 -at on the runner- of tl:<' -|e(loe, I'.'ll a-lei'p in-'aiitly. and
 
 EFVKCTS OF KXIIAI'S'IIOX AM) (OLD 
 
 21-3 
 
 were I'oi'ccd to wakcfuhu^ss when their three minutes were 
 out. H_\' ei,<i;ht in tiie eveniuii; we enier<i,'e(l {'roiu the floes. 
 The -i.uht of the Pinnaely I^jer^u; revived us. l^randy, an in- 
 \-aluat)le I'esoui'ce in enieriicncy, had already Ix-en served 
 out in tal)lesp(.)ont'u! dose.-. W'e now took a lonj^er rest, and 
 a la>t l)ut stouter <lrain, and reached the ])ri<>; at 1 I'.M., wo 
 believe without a halt. 1 say ire Ixlure: and here perhaps 
 is the most decided ])roof (jf (jur sui'ferin.u's : we were (|uite 
 delirious, and had ceased to entertain a sane apprehensi(jn of 
 the circumstances about us. ^^'e moved on like men in a 
 dream. Our footmarks seen afterwards showed that we 
 had st(>ere(l a hee-line for the briji,'. It nni>t ria\'e been liy 
 a sort of instinct, foi' it left no impress on the memory. Bon- 
 sall was sent rt a,u',ucrin_2; ahead, and reached the bri<;\ dod 
 know- how. for he had fallen i'e])eatedly at the track-lines ; 
 but he d(-li\-ere<l with ])unctili(jus accuracy tlie messa.U'cs I 
 luid -eiit l)y him to Dr. IIa\'es. I thouuht myself the <ound- 
 e-t of all, for 1 went throuuh all the formula of >anily. and can 
 recall the mutterin,<i' delirium of my conu'ades when we <i'ot 
 ])ack iii'o the cabin of our i)ri,u'. Vet I have Ixn-n told since 
 oi .-ome speeche< ;md some orders, too, of mine, which I >lioiild 
 liax'e remembered f(_»r their [d)surdit\' if my mind had retained 
 it- balanc(\ 
 
 '■J'eter<en and AVhi]')])le came out to meet us about two 
 mil''.- fi'om ihe bi'ia. They brouu'ht m\' do<i'-team, with tlu.' 
 i'e-toi'ati\'''< I had sent for by Bonsall. T d(.) not remember 
 their cominii,'. I)i'. Hayes entei'ed with judicious eneri>.-y uyion 
 the treatment oui' condition calh'd foi'. a.dmini.-tei'iivu' mor- 
 ])i!iiie freely, aflei- the u-ual fricliou-. lie rei^ortc'l none of 
 oui' bi'ain---\'ni])toni.< a.- -''riou-. I'efei'rini!.' them ]M'()])crly to the 
 (la,-- of tho.-e indications of exhau-ted ])ower which yield to 
 .lieMi'i'oii-; did and rest. Mr, ( *hl-en <ullered .-ome time from 
 -tfabi-mu- and 1 •.litiilne-< : two o'her- underwent am|")Uta- 
 tini! of j)art- of the h)ot, wilh.'Ut unplea.-ant con>e(iUence- ;
 
 214 THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 and two died in ^\)\{(' oi all our i^l't'orts. This rescue ]:)arty 
 had hccu (.)Ut lor scvciil y-l \V(j hours. We had liaited iu aU 
 ei<iht hours, hah' of our nunii)er sh'cping at a tiiue. W'e trav- 
 vW\\ l)et\veeu eigldy and ninety miles, most of the way (lra,<2;- 
 <i,in<j; a heavy sled<2;e. The mean tem])erature of the whol(> 
 time, inchuhnii; the warmest hours oi' thi-e(> d;i,ys, was at 
 — IT' 2'. W'e had no water except at oiu' two halls, and were 
 at no time ahl(> to iutei'mit \'ig(.)rous exercise without l'reezin<;'.'' 
 
 Dr. Jvane writes, April \, Tuesday : — 
 
 "J''our days have ])assed, and I am a,<i,'ain at my I'ecord of 
 failur(>s, sound, hut achinji still in ever\' joint. The I'escued 
 men ar(^ not out of dan<i-er, hut their ii2;ratitude is very touchin,<i;. 
 Pray (iod that they may live !"' 
 
 Shoi'tly aft(a- these ex'ents, the ship was \-isite(l ])y I^skimos, 
 a "i'ood-natured, childlike cojn])any, who disdained such 
 dainties offered h}' the crew as wheat bi'cad, corned poi'k, 
 and lumps of white suti,'ar, hut "i'or.uctl themseh-es on beef and 
 ])!ul)l)er. ;ind took opportunit \' to st(>al whatever they could 
 lay their lumds on. Dr. Kane ipurchased all the walrus nieat 
 1he\' had to spai'e and some of tlieir (lot;s, eni'ichin.ii them in 
 return with needles and heads, and a treasui'c of old cask 
 sta\'es. l''ollowin,u' his experience wit h the i^skimos. Dr. Ivaiie 
 ^■i\'es an aimi>iti,ii' anecdoie of a seal hunt. 
 
 ■'()ii one occasion," lie writes, ''whih' \vo!'kiii,ii' my \Xi\y 
 toward the l->kimo hut<. I saw a lar.u'e f '.-■///,- ha-kinji' a>lee[i 
 Uj)on t he ice. 'I'akin^ off my shoes, I commenced a somewhat 
 I'dVitid'alinii- i)rocess of stalkin.u', lyini;,- upon m\' hel!\- and 
 crawiiii;; alon.ii,-, >lep by >tep, behind the little knob-- of lloe. 
 At last, wjien ! was within Vnvj^ rifle-shot, the .animal ,ua\-e 
 a, .-Iu,'i.L;,i>h roll lo one side, an.d suddenly lil'led his lead. 
 Till' nioxi'inent was exidently inde])endent of me. tor he 
 strained \\\< neck in nearly the op])o<ite dii'eclion. Then, ioi' 
 the fii'-i lime, 1 loimd th.al I had ;i I'lx'al se.ai-hunl ei' in a lar^c 
 bear, who wa> on hi^ belly like myself, waitin.u, wit h commend-
 
 7;/.'. KAyE\S JOCRNEY 215 
 
 able patience and cold feet for a chance of nearer approach. 
 'AMiat should 1 do? — the bear was doubtless worth more to 
 nie than the seal ; but the seal was now within shot, and the 
 l)ear a bird in tlie bush ! Besides, my bullet once invested 
 in tlie seal ^^'<)uld leave mc^ defenceless. I miglit l)e giving 
 a dinner to a ])car, and saving myself for his dessert.' These 
 meditations were soon l)rought to a close ; for a secojid move- 
 m(>nt of the seal so aroused my hunter's instincts that I pulled 
 the trigg(>r. ^Nly cap alone exploded. Instantly with a 
 floundei-ing s])lash, the seal descended into the de(^]i, and the 
 bear, with three or four rapid leaps, stood (hsconsolately by 
 the ])lace of his d(>scent. For a single mouKnit we stared 
 eacli other in the face, and then, with that discretion which is 
 the b(>tter part of A"alor, the bear ran off in one direction, and 
 I followed his exam])le in the othei'." 
 
 Toward the (aid of April, Dr. Kane had completed his prep- 
 arations for his grand sledg(> journey to the north. 
 
 ■'It was," h(> writes, ''to b(> the ci'owning expcflition of the 
 cani])aign to attain the uliit/ia tJiulc of the Clreenland shoi'e, 
 measui'c the wastc^ tluit hxy between it and the unknown west, 
 and seek roiuid the fuith(-st circle of the ice for an outlet to 
 t!ie mysterious chaiUK^ls beyond." 
 
 "The woist thought I lia\'e now in settin.g out," writes Dr. 
 Kan*', Aiii'il 2(), ''is tk.at of the entii'c crew I can leave but two 
 behii'.d in id)!e condition, ami the doctor and Bonsall are the 
 onl\' two oflicei's who can hel]:) Ohlsen. This i< our foi'ce, 
 four alile-bodie(l and >ix di<abI(Ml to keej) tla^ brig ; th(> com- 
 mander and seven men. scarcely better u])on the avca-age, 
 out u])on the ice. Eighteen souls, thank (!od! certainl}' not 
 eighteen bodies ! 
 
 "I ;im going this time to follow Hie ice-belt ^'Ei-^-fixl) to tlie 
 (b-eat ( ilacic!" of Humboldt . ami tliere lo;id U]i with ]ienunican 
 fr(.)m our cache of last October, b'rom this ])oint I ex])ect to 
 stretch along the face of the glacier inclinin"' to the west of
 
 i^it; 
 
 Tiir: ',i;i:at wiirri: XDirni 
 
 north, and make an attcii]])! to ci'oss the ice of the Ainci'icaii 
 ,<i(lc. ( )iicc on smooth ice. ncai' this shoi'c, 1 may ])ass to the 
 Avc.-l, and ontcr the lariiv indentation \vhos(> exi.-tenee I can 
 infer with ncai'ly j)ositi\'e eei-tainty. In this I may find an 
 e)Utlct, and determine tlie state of thinjis l)e\-(.)nd tiie iee- 
 eh-uucd area of this hay. 
 
 " I take with me ])ennnican and bread and tea, a canvas tent, 
 {i\"e hy -ix. and two >le(])iim-l tap.- of [■(■inth'cr skin. The ^lediic 
 has keen kuiU on hoard \ty Mi'. ()hl<en. It is yny liiih.t. of 
 hickory, and hut nine ieet lon,^. ( )ur kitclien i> a .-onp ketth' 
 for mehinii' snow and maivina,' t(^a. arran.iLcd so a- to hoil with 
 eithei' kird or >!)irits. 
 
 "I'or in>ti'uments I ]ia\'e a fine (kiin'oey sextant, in adiH- 
 tion to my orikmary ]M)clve1-in^t I'ument . an artificial horizon, 
 and a ]]arrow"> (hp-circle. d'he>e occupy little room u])on the 
 .'-le(lu('. ]\Iy telesco]X' and chronometer I carr\' on my per- 
 S(ni."" 
 
 Ill efiui])])ed. enfeel)led in health. di>coura^u'e(l ky the faihire 
 of t lieii' caches which had keen ln'oken into ky kear>. the lit tie 
 ])ai'ly St I'lmulei! on a- lnmi,- a- stren,uth an<l ])i'o\'i^ioir- lasii'(l. 
 '"ddie mo^t picturescjue ])ortion of the North ( ii'cenland 
 coa-t.'" write- I)i'. Kane, "i- to ke h)und aftei' !ea\"itm' ('a])e 
 (c'oi'ii'e l{u->ell anil appi'oacliitiLi Dalla- kkay. The re(l sand- 
 stones c()iiti-;i-t mo-t i'a\'orak|y will, the klank \\iiitene-s, 
 a--ocia,t inu' the cold tinl.- ol' t!;e dre;ir\' Arctic land>cape with 
 the warm coloi'in'i of moi'e .-miihern lands. The >ea>on- ka\'e 
 a'Mi'd on ihe different layei'- (»f the r]\\'\ -o as to ui\'e them the 
 .ajipearance of jointed ma--om'y. and the nari'ow line ol iii'immi- 
 s!o!i ' ai the top cap- them with well--innilated katilem.ent-. 
 < Mie of tli,.^,- intere-tinu' freak- of nature kecanie known to 
 
 i!- a- I he ''khree 1 iri it her Turcel -.' 
 
 "'khc -lo])ino' I'ukki-li al ihe toot of t!;e coa-t -wall led up, 
 like ;in arkifieial ca u-ewa \', !o ,a liorne that wa- -ti'eamum' at 
 noondaX' with tlie -outliel'tl >mi : while e\'e|-\'where el.-e the
 
 CHEAT (iLAilKll OF II rMIKjLDT 217 
 
 rock stood oul ill the blackest shadow. Just at tlic (mI^c of 
 the l)right opening rose tlie ch-eaniy senil)lance of a casile, 
 Hanked witli trii)l(^ towers, completel}' isohited and defined. 
 These wer(^ tlie "Three Bi'otlier Turrets.' 
 
 ''I was stiU more struck with another of the same sort, 
 in the inunethate neigliborhood of my lialting ground beyond 
 S'anny Ciorg(>, to the north (jf latitude 79°. A single cliff of 
 green stone, marked by the slaty limestone that once encased 
 i;, rears itself from a crumbled base oi sandstones, like the 
 b(jldl}- cliiselled ramjiart of an ancient city. At its northern 
 extremity, on th(> brink of a dee]) raviiK^ which has worn its 
 wa}' among the ruins, there stands a solitar\' column or min- 
 aret -towei-. as shar])ly finislied as if it liad b(>en cast hjr tlie 
 Place \'endome. Yet the length of the shaft alone is h^ur 
 hundred and eighty feet : and it rises on a plinth or ped(\<tal 
 itself two Inmdred and eighty feet high." 
 
 But by far tlie most remarkable feature of the Clreat "White 
 Xorth visite<l by Dr. Kane was tlie '"Tli-eat Cdaciei' of Hum- 
 boldt." "I will not attem])t to do better b\' florid descrip- 
 tion," he write-. "'[Men only rhaps(.)dize alniut Xiagara and 
 tlie oc(^an. Afy notes speak >in!])ly of the ' long e^■ershining 
 line of clilT dimini>hed to a well-pointed wedge in the per- 
 s])ecti\'('' ; and again, of 'the face of gli-tening ice, swee])ing 
 in a long cur^'e from the low interior, the facets in front 
 intensely illuminaie<l l)y the sun." But thi> line rjf cliff rosc^ 
 in -olid gla>.-\' wall three hundri'd feet abo\-e the wat<'r-level, 
 with an miknown, unfathomable (le])th l)elow it ; and its 
 curved face, sixty mile> in length from C'a])e Aga»iz to ("ajie 
 ]''orbes, \"ani>hed into unknown <])ace at not more than a >ingie 
 day"> railroad tra\'el from the Pole. The interior ^\^\x\\ which 
 it communicateil, and from which it i--ue(!. \vas an tmsur- 
 \"eye<! incr dc tjlucc. an ice-ocean, to the eye of boundlos 
 dimensions. 
 
 '"It was in full siuht — the mii;,ht\- cr\'>tal bridii'e v/hich
 
 21 (S THE (.'HEAT WHITE NOJITH 
 
 coiiiiccts th<' two coiiliiicnts of AnuM'ica and Circfnland. I 
 say cont iiiciils. foi' ( Ircciilaiul, lio\V('\'('i' insulated it may ulti- 
 mately ])ro\'e to he, is in ma>s strict 1\- continental. Its last 
 ])os-i!)le axis, mea>ured from ('a])e I'"ai-e\vell to the liii(> of 
 this <ilaciei', in the nei,uhl)orhood of the ei.u'litieth ])arallel, 
 gives a length (.)f moic than tv,'el\-e hundred miles, — not 
 matei-ially less tluui that of Au>ti'alia from its noT'thern to its 
 soutliei'n ca])e. Imagine now the centi'c of such a continent, 
 occu])ied thi'ough neai'ly its wh(.)le extent hy a dee]) mibi'oken 
 sea of ice, that gathers ])erennial increase from the v\'ater-she(l 
 of vast sn.ow-covered mountain.-, and all the ])reci])itation of 
 the atmos])here u])(/n it- ov\'n >ui'l'a.ce. Lnagine this mo\'ing 
 onward like a gi'cat glacial ri\'ei', seeking outlets at every 
 fiord and \'all(y, rolling icy ca.tai'acts and h.ax'ing at last 
 reached the noiihern limit of the land that has borne it u]), 
 ])our!Mg out a mighty frozen torrent into unknown Arctic 
 s])ace. 
 
 "It is thiis, and only thu.s, that we nnist form a just con- 
 cei)tion of a ])henonieiU)n like thi- ( U'cat ( ilaciei'. I had 
 looked in my i)\\\\ iiiind lor sucli an a];])earance. sliould 1 e\'er 
 he foi't un.ale enough to I'cach t he no!'' Iierii coa>t ol' ( ireenland. 
 Hut, now that it was hefore me. I could hardly realize it. I 
 had recogiiized in my (|uiet library at home, the beautiful 
 analogic- wiiirh l-'oi'bes and Studicn h;i\'e develo))e(l between 
 the glacier ;;nd 1 he !'i\i'r. 1)U1 I could not conipr'chend at tii'st 
 thi~ co!i!i)|fjc -uh-t it ui ion of ice I'm' watef. 
 
 "li \\';i- -iowly that the con\iclion da^\'ned on me th.at I 
 wa- loo!\i!Ui' Ujion the countei'i);i!'t !>(' the gi'eat lix'C!- -y,-lem of 
 Ai'etii' .\-!a and America. \ (•{ liei'c -were no w;!lef-!eedei s 
 ironi tiie -iiiith. lA'cry particle of moi.-1ure h:id it< origin 
 wi!l:iii till' poK'i!' circle. ;nid liad bciii cons'cried into ice. 
 ThiTe \\i 11 11(1 \-;i-l ;illii\i()!!-. Do foie-l Ol' anlncil lr;ice- liorne 
 dnw n i y liouiii toiTent-. Ilei'c vr;i- a jda-lic. mining, -(-mi- 
 solid ma.-~. ( (bill (■r;P iiig life, -w;dlowing rocks and i>lajids, and
 

 
 UETURX AND 1LLM:s,S UF DR. KANE 219 
 
 pl()nji;hin<i; its way with irresistible mai'cli tlirouj2;h the crust 
 of an iuvc.^i iiiti' sea." 
 
 \W May "), Or. Kane became d(>Urious and fainted every 
 time he was taken from tlie tent. '"^ly conn'ades would 
 kind!}' persuade me that, even had I continued sound, we 
 (H)ui<l not luu'e ])roceeded on our journey. The snows AVere 
 very luavx', and increa.sint;- as we went ; s(jme of the drifts 
 ])(n'feetl\' im])assaf)lt', and tlu^ level tioes oft(>n foiu' feet deep 
 in yielding; snow. The scurv\' had alrc^ady broken out among 
 the ?nen. with symjUoms like m\' ov»'n ; and Morton, our 
 stron.u'est man, was ])e,a;innin<>; to ,a,ive way. 
 
 "Il is the rcA'erse of comfort io me that they shared my 
 wi-aknes-. All tliat 1 could rememlx^' with pl(\asural)le feel- 
 in^i!,- is, that to fi\'e brave men, Alorton, Kiley, Ilicke}', Ste- 
 ])hen>(>n.;ind Ilans, tliemselves scarcely able to tra\'el, I owe 
 my ])res(>rvation. They carried m(,' l)ack by forced marches, 
 after cacliinii,' our stores and India-rubber boat near Dallas 
 Bay. in lat. 7*)° .')', long. ()()°." 
 
 .■^uch was the "'faihii'e" of the (Iraiid Expedition ! 
 
 Tlie gentle iiand of summer now extend(>(l mucli-needed 
 rebuff to tlie stricken crew. Seals began to a])i)ear and in 
 such large numbers that there was no want of fresh meat, 
 wliich worked wonders in the heahli of those ^utTering with 
 scurv\'. Snow-buntings and gulls aaid eider-ducks came wing- 
 ing th''!!' \\a\' to their nortli(^rn breedinu- ])kices— and tlie warm 
 Sim brought out the welcome verdui'c wit h marvellous ra])idity. 
 
 Dr. Kane"- ln-altli improve(l, but lie was ()l)liged to giv(i 
 u]) furtiicr sl(dg(> ji^e.rneys. To Dr. TIayes was intrusteil a 
 journ.ey ii^i which he reacluMl tlie o]i])osite coast of (irinnell 
 Land, wliich lie ^;a■\•^•yed as far as (*a])e Frazcr. On June 1, 
 ?\lo]'1(.)n let't tiic b'fig with Ibms, tiie K.-kimo, foi' the jMitpose 
 of sur\-eying tiie (Ireenkmd coast beyond the Ilumboldt 
 (ilaciir. The lalcnes^ of the season rendered nmch of the 
 ice extremch- tmsafe.
 
 :J_'<! Tin: (jukat wii/ti-: xoirrif 
 
 (h\ .IniM' 2t). Is.")!. Alorloii rcachcfl the hold hcadhuHl of 
 ( 'ape ( 'oii-linilioii. where ihc >url' (hished >o I'urii^ii-l}' aji;aiiist 
 ihe hitih. o\-e!'haiiii;iiiu ehf't'-, that further progress was iinpos- 
 sihie. ( liinhiiiL!, from roek lo rock, in the ho])e of fiii(lin«i.' a 
 pa--, lie .-tood at la>t at a hei;i.ht of threi' hundi'ed fe('t and 
 looked out u])on a ^reat wa.-te of water.-, st I'etchin.u.' a- far as 
 the (-ye could reach into the unknown north. Ahout him the 
 flock- of .-ea-.-Wallows, kittiwakes, and hrent-ji'ef'se hhaided 
 their di-cordant note- with the tliunderou> i'()ll of the sea. 
 I'Vom ('ai)e ( 'on.-titution the coast of \\'a>hin,uton Land 
 trended to the east, hut far \i) the norlhwe.-t. heyond the open 
 water- of tlie cliann('l. a peak 1(-rminatin,u' a I'an.U'c of moini- 
 tain- wa- .-een towering' at a heiiiht of JVom lwenty-h\'e Inm- 
 dred to three thousand feet, and thi- remote landmark 
 recel\-eil tiic nanie of Mount Parry. On tlu' 2r)th of Jime, 
 .Aloi'ton conunenced his I'eturn and reached the hri.u- on the 
 lOlh of .Inly. " >t;iu,-.u-erin,ii- I .y the .-ide of the lim])in,u- do.u's, 
 oni' of wliich Wa- ridinu' ;is a ])a>-enu('r upon the .-l('(iue."' 
 
 .Meanwiiile, the hrief .-unniier wa- r;i])idl\' waninu'; there 
 >e!'med no ])i-omi-'' of the ice 1 irealciiia u]). and the alarming 
 pi'o-peci of ]);i--in:i: a .-econd wiiiter in the ice lorce(l it>(-lt 
 upon I he .uallant coainiander and hi- hra\'e and >uffei'in,<i' cri'W. 
 
 "W'e h:i\"e no coal fol' a -ecoin! \\-inter here." he A\'rin--: 
 "our -lock of fre-h ]iro\"i-io!i- i- utlei'ly e\hau-ted ; and our 
 -ick neeil chanu'c. ;■> e--ential to thi if reco\-ery.'" 
 
 .\n un-ucce--ful aiiempi wa< made to reach Sir Ivlward 
 Pjclcher'- -riuad.ron a' P>efc!ie\- I-Iand. 
 
 •■The :a-a-on ira\-e|.~ on." write-; Dr. K'ane on Auuu-t 1 o ; 
 "the youn'z ice oTdw-.. tjiicker. and ni\' me— male-" iace- crow 
 loM-'-r i'\-i'!-y da;/. 1 ha\'f aiiain to pla\' huffoon to kecj) ilj) 
 tl:c -nirit- of the parl>-. A ra\-oii ! d'lie -nowhird- lu'uin to 
 
 i]v to t he -I .i;i !: in uroal)-. col 1 1 j M 'J.' a t liiuiit to oUl' hl-ili' to ho\'(T 
 
 on ti.'' .'iu'^inu. Winte)- i- huri'yinu' upon u-. Tic ])o])})ies 
 arc (1 lilt I- wilt I'd."
 
 RETrnx Ayn illxess of dr. ka\k -l-ll 
 
 Two (Uiys h\{ev \V(' find {\w ontry : — 
 
 "In fivo (hiys the s])i-in<i tides conic })ack : should \xv fail 
 in ])assins with tlu^ni, I think our f()rtun(\s arc fix(Hl. Tlu> 
 young icf boi'c a man this morning: it had a bad look, this 
 man-su])i)orting August ice ! The temperature' ncn'cr falls 
 below 2S° ; but it is cold o' nights with no fire."' 
 
 "August IS, Fi-iday," he writes, "reduced our allowance 
 of wood to six pounds a metd. This, among eighteen mouths, 
 is one-third of a ])ound of fuel each. It allows uscoffee twice 
 a day, and sou]) once. Our fare b(>si(l(>s this is cold ])ork 
 l)oile(l in (]uantity and cniten as requii'(Ml. This sort of thing 
 works badly ; l)ut I nuist save coal for other (>mergencies. 
 I see 'darkness ahead' ! 
 
 "I inspected the ice again to-day. Bad ! Bad ! — I must 
 look another winter in tlie fac(\ I do not shrink from the 
 thought, but. while ^\o have a chance ahead, it is my first duty 
 to have all things in I'eadiness to meet it. It is horrible — 
 yes, that is the word — to look forward to another year of 
 disease and darkness to be met without fresh food and without 
 fuel. I should meet it with a mon^ tcMUjx^-ed sadness if I 
 had no conu'ades to think h)r and jirotect." 
 
 "August 20. Sunday. — liest for all hands. The daily 
 prayer is no longer 'Lord, acc(^]it our gratitude and bless our 
 unihn'taking,' but. 'Lord, accej^t our gratitude and restore 
 us to our liomes.' The ice shows no change ; aftei' a boat and 
 foot joui'n(\v around tlie entii'c southeast(M'n c'ar\'e of the ba\', 
 no signs I" 
 
 The future looked so gloomy, and Dr. Kane's a])])reh(M"ision 
 for th(> ultimate sah>ty of his ]nu'ty was so grav(\ tliat he deter- 
 mincnl to enM't a cairn in a cons))icu()us sjiot u])on a cliff look- 
 inu; out upon tli(^ ic}' des(>rt,and on a broad face of r(jck the 
 words — 
 
 " .\d\'ance 
 
 "A.D. LS-liWH"
 
 THE (illEAT WHITE XOHTII 
 
 \\-{-vi- ]);iiii1cil ill letters wliieh foiild 1 »(> re;i(l at a distanco. A 
 ])yraiiiiil of heavy <t()iie< ))ereli(>(l al»()\-e it, \\"as iiiai'keil wi;li 
 the ( 'hri.-tiai! -yinhol <n the cro.— . •'It \v;i.- not without a 
 holiei' M'litimeiit than tiiat of mere iitilit\' that 1 ])!;!(•(■([ ini(U'r 
 thi> tlie (•()(!;!!- of our two ])oor eomraiie-. It \\'a- our l)eac<»ii 
 aii'l their ,U'ra\'e>t(JiH'. Xeai' tiii< a hole Wa- \voi-kfil \]\H) the 
 I'oef:, aU'-l a ])a.])er, euehj.-c-d in ,ula-s. >e;ile(l in \vilh meli(,[ 
 le;ul. Thi- ])ap('r (•(jiila.iiKit a eai'eful rc'cord oi tla- expiMliiiou 
 tl]) to ilate. 
 
 •"Tiie uie.Miory of the fir-t wirite]' (juau'ter< of Sir John I-"i'anl-;- 
 lin. ami the ])ainful f^'f l!nix> wvAi wiiieh, Avhile -tamlinu; hy 
 the o-raves of hi- ile;iil. I ha'l fi\'e yar< hefiji'e souu'ht f(jr 
 written -iirn- j)ointiiiLr to the fate of tiu- Ii\"inL!:. i]ia<h' nie 
 (•;iri nil io a^'oi'l a -iinilar ne^ileet." 
 
 ^ )n Auu'U-t 21. th<- la-t ho;i.' of liof-rat inu' the A-r-^-f'! van- 
 i-hfil. aJi'l, ealliiiU' hi- eitfie. r- ami erev." tout-ther. Dr. Kane 
 (■xnh'iin.'il To til ^-111 t h'' full m'a\'!!y of the .-ii nation, anil 1 liouu'h 
 hf- wa- fully ■al'-rniiiico. to -taU'l 1 e.' the \^v\'s :_[\-A h^lt that an 
 atten!])tril I'l'lreat to the -I'li h-,ei''nt of r])enia\-ifc -o late in 
 th(- -"ii-on woul'i eert:hnl\' fail, he n"\'ertheh-< 'd.wvr ]\]> I'ull 
 ])fr;ni--io!i to tho-c 'ii'-iiiin: to li'a\'e. au'l th" ]")ro!ni-c of 
 a !)ro'hi-i''- w"leoni!', -houM ^h'^y he (lri\-i-n iia''k. The 
 
 roll Wa- l!:"n e;ille.l. aU'l .i.iht of the inen ou' o*' ihc -eA-i'Hl r-f'ii 
 si;r\-!vo;'- i,f the ])''rty vi ilu'it ''i-ri-il to reinain in thi' -hi]'). 
 T'le re-t uiaj'i' ?'eai!y 1o ah.'inJon \.i'\\ anil wi'h a i:'i'nerou< 
 (!i\-:-io:i m!" -t,,ri'- ;!i!:| ai)!)li:i!ii'i'- ]>■■'.' lhr -hh) on iln' 2^t>:. 
 "Ttie i);i!ay niox'ei] n'i\ wiili ijic -i::-'!^ -''T) of nict! confiilent 
 in ih''ii' ' v;viii )-.-. aU'l W'l'i- OU' i.f -iu'ht in a fi'\\' hou!'-," 
 
 ]{'ihic<-il U: !iuni! .'■!•-. i:i;Uiy of ihdn h'-JDii--, thf waiiiiiti 
 ejii-i' i!i'\' ' if all. '■onihin-i ! wi'ii thi' inineni JinL^ v/ijit cv (j.irl.iK--- 
 
 i!v' i-o 
 
 .,,;,! 
 
 :1 -UMoi\- I.: -u-.l am! -UMj-e-. 1i mli-ii -Uly i,, 
 
 ! LiTo'ui 'i;' M'-oairin'j I'nii. Ie:' '!;'ir ihiri-inil 
 
 . '■' \]\y\\\'S ■ i^i' 1 .1'l'i' '"y ot Uiieio ha' '■ ai-' Ion, imt 
 a!: ' aU'i-. -ii'h aU'i wi!!. lo \'-o:-i^ :.rci .n hnn- ;,, ih.-ii- -; r-uLii f!, 
 in oi'i'! i;; r;:; a lU ut t hi' ,: ■ .i ^ri >:<'■'• .:\\'i of win' i^r.
 
 SECOXD W INT El I IN THE ICE 223 
 
 Dr. Kane luul made a careful study of the Eskimos, and had 
 come to th(> wise conchision tliat their f(jrm of habitations 
 and tlunr jXH'uUar (het, minus th(>ir unthrift and filth, was the 
 safest and ))est method of existence under the unusual cir- 
 cmnstances of an Arctic winter. He tlu^'cfore (k^termincHl 
 to borrow a lesson from the natives and, as far as possible, 
 turn the bri^ into an igloe. The (|uarter-deck was padded 
 down with moss and turf, so as to form a nearly cold-i)roof 
 coverinii. Below a si)ace some (d^htc^en feet scjuare was 
 pa(dc(xl from floor to ceiling witli imier Avails of the same ma- 
 terial. The iloor was carefully calkcxl with plast(^r-of-Paris 
 and common ])aste, covered a cou])le of inches deep with 
 Alanila oakum, and carpeted with canvas. A low moss- 
 linen I tunn(d was arranged to connect with the hold, and 
 divida'd with as many doors and ctu'tains as possible to keep 
 otit tlie cold draughts. 
 
 Larg(> banks of snow were also th.rown up along the brig's 
 sides to k(H^]i olf the cold wind. Tlu^se arduous labours in the 
 open au' greatly improved tlu^ health and spirits of the men. 
 
 Int(M-course with the Eskimos at tlu^ winter settlements 
 of J-]tah and Ancxttok, distant some^ thirty and s(n'enty miles, 
 led to a trc^iity by AA'hich the Eskimos, for such presents as 
 needl(>s. ])ins. and knives, (mgaged to furnish walrus and fresh 
 S(>al meat, to ih(> shl]). (VHinnon hunting parties were or- 
 ganizeil. and the white men were (lii'CH'tcnl by tlu^ natives where 
 to hnd the game. To thes(^ suijjdies of fresh meat, Kane and 
 \\\< (■om])ani()ns owed their sah'ation, and X\\c Eskimos on 
 theii- i)art l(>ai'U(Ml l(j regard the white men as th(>ir bene- 
 factors. a!i(l siricei'ciy niourncMl their d(>partiu'(\ 
 
 P)elor(^ the darknes.-^ came on, Dr. Kane again iK^arly lost 
 his life in an attempt to s(>cure a seal — Avhile out in \\\v ict\ 
 I^an■^ tiad just ci'led out, "' Pusri/ .' pK.^ci/ n/id ! s(-al ' seal!" 
 ''At tli(^ same instant." wi'it(^s I)r. Kane, "the dogs bound(Ml 
 forward, and, as I looked up, I saw crowds of gra}' nctsik,
 
 224 TIIK aUKAT WHITE NOllTH 
 
 the rouuli or lii-])i(l seal of tlic whalers (li.-])ortins in an open 
 sea o( w'alcr." 
 
 ■"I luul liai'illy wclc(»iiu'(l tlic s])cclaclc when I saw that we 
 had ])asse(l u])on a new heh of ice that was oi)\-iously unsafe. 
 To the riuht and l(ft and front was one ^reat ex])an.-e of >now- 
 flo\\-ei'ed ice. Tlie n(-arest .-ohd floe was a niei'c lunij), which 
 st(jod like an i>land in the white le\-el. To turn was ini])(js- 
 -ihle : we luul Xo kee]) u]) our ^ait. ^^'e urged on the dogs 
 with whi]) [ind voice, the ice rolling like leather l)eneath the 
 sledge-runnel-- ; it was nioi'e than a mile to the luni]) of solid 
 ice. Fear g;ive to the ])oor beasts their utmost s])(>ed, and 
 our \-(.)ic(s were .-oon hu-iicd t(_) >ilence. 
 
 "Thi- sus])ense, unrelie\-e(l hy action or efforts, was intoler- 
 ahle; we knew that there was no remedy but to reach the 
 floe, and that e\'er\-thing rh-jx-nded U])C)n our dogs, and our 
 dogs alone. A moment's check A\'otild ])lunge the whole 
 c(_)nc('rn into the i'a])id tidcwa}'; no ])re-eMcc of mind or 
 resource, iiodil\' or mental, c(ju!d avail us. Idie seals — for 
 we W('re now near enough to sec their ex|)ressi\-(- faces — were 
 lookinu' at us \\\\\\ that >ti'anu(' curio>it\' winch seems to be 
 their characteristic e.\])res>ion : we niu>t liave jiassetl .--ome 
 fifty of them, bre;t>t-high out (.)f water, mocking u> by their 
 self-ronij)l;iccticy. 
 
 " Thi- ilc,-|)cr;itc rac(' agaiii>t fate could not 1, a- 1 : the rolling 
 of tlie touiih >alt-\\'at I'r ice teri'ificd our dou- : and when 
 within fit'ty i)ac(-- tVoni the f!oc. they ])au>cd. The left-hand 
 rumicr W'-tit thi'ouLih: oiu' lc;u!ci' ■Too(|lamick" tolJowfMl. 
 and in one .-('CMnd llu- entii'e left nl' tlie sle(lue wa- >ubniei'ge<l. 
 My til'-t ll;o;i'ihl W;t.- to jilier.'ite the iloU'-. I leaned forward 
 to ent j)ooi' ■Tood'>' trace-, niid the next minute w,m- -wim- 
 niini:' in ;i little < ir-'le of p.'i^'>' iee ;uid w;iter ahmii-ide him. 
 I l;in-. d';ir 1:001 ! f-ljow. drew inMr to he]]) inc. ut t erinii' ])iteou> 
 e\pr'-don- in iiroken I-ingh-li : but I ordered him to tlu'ow 
 hiin-eh"' on hi- 'oeHx' witli hi- h.-ui'l.- aiHi leers extended, and to
 
 I. I. 11ayi>
 
 PEIVATTONS AND SUFFER TNG S 225 
 
 make for the islaiid by cogging him.self forward with his jack- 
 knife. In the meantime — a mere instant — I was flounder- 
 ing al)()ut with sledge, dogs, and lines, in a confused puddle 
 aroimd me. 
 
 "l succeeded in cutting poor Tood's lines and letting him 
 scramble to the ice, for the poor fellow was drowning me with 
 his })iteous caresses, and made my Avay for the sledge ; but I 
 found tluit it would not buoy me, and that I had no resource 
 but to try the circumference of the hole. Around this I 
 paddled faithfully, the miserable ice always yielding when my 
 hop(\- of a lodgment were greatest. During this process, I 
 eulargetl my circle of operations to a very uncomfortable 
 diamet(>r, and was beginning to feel weaker after every effort. 
 Hans, meanwhile, had reached the firm ice, and was on his 
 knees, like a good Moravian, praying incoherently in English 
 and I'^kimo : at every fresh crushing-in of the ice he would 
 ejaculate 'God!' and when I recommenced my paddling 
 he rc^conunenced his prayers. 
 
 ''I was nearly gone. ]\Iy knife had been lost in cutting 
 out the dogs ; and a spare one which I carried in my trouscM's- 
 pock(>t was so (nR-elo])e(l in the wet skins that I could not 
 reach it. I owed my (extrication at last to a newly broken 
 team-dog, who was still fast to the sledge and in struggling 
 carried one of the runners chock against the edge of the circle. 
 All my pi'(>vi()us attem])ts to use the sledge^ as a bridge had 
 fniUnl, for it broke through, to the nuich greater injury of the 
 ic<\ I f(^lt it A\as a last chancer I thnnv myself on my back, 
 so as t() lessen as nuich as jiossible my weight, and i)laced the 
 na])(> of my lUM'k against the run or edge of the ice : then with 
 caution slowly bent my leg, and, ])lacing tlte ball of my 
 moccasined foot against tho sledg(\ I pn^ssed steadily against 
 the rinmc^r, listening to the lialf-\-ielding crunch of tiu; ice 
 l)en(>at]i. 
 
 '"Presently 1 f(}lt that my liead was pillowtMl by the ice,
 
 77/7-; GREAT WHITE X(jinTI 
 
 and that my wet fur juin})fr was .<li(lin.<^ up the surfafc. 
 ISi'Xt caiiic 111}- .-houldcr.- ; they were fairly on. One more 
 (lcci<.ic(l \)\\<\i and 1 was hiunch('(l u]) (jn the ice and safe I 
 readied th(_' ice-floe, and was fi'icti(j]ied \)\ Hans with friiiiitful 
 zeal. We saved all the dogs, hut tlie -ledge. ka}'ack. tf-nt.-. 
 gu!i<. snow-sh(^es, and <'ver\'thing he.-ide>, were left Ijehind. 
 The therni(jnit-ter at 8' will kec]) them frozen fast in the sleda-e 
 till we can come and cut thcan (jut. 
 
 "On reaching the shi]). after a twel\-e-nule trot, I f(;und >o 
 nuich of comhjrt and warm \\'elconu' that I forgot my failure. 
 Idie fire Was lit U]). and one of our few birds >lau<ihtere(l forth- 
 ^\"ith. It is with real gratitude that I look hack u])on my 
 esca])e. and hli'ss the gi'eat ])jesiding Ciofjdness for the very 
 mall}' I'e.-ources ^\•hiell remain to us."" 
 
 Oil Decemher 12, the ])arty which liad de>ei'ted the shi]:) 
 returned: they hud luid a hitter exi)erienc(_' .struggling for 
 mor<' than four nujuths among 1 he hummocks and >now-dril'ts, 
 and were in a ])iliahl(- condition. 
 
 "The thermometer was at — oO' "". writes Dr. Kane; 
 '"they w('re e(.\'ereil with rime and >now, and were fainting 
 with hunger. It wa.- necessai'X' to use caution in taklim' them 
 helow ; h)r after an e.\])o-ure of .-uch fi'ai'lul iiitili-ity and 
 duration as the\' had gone thr(Mmh. the Warmtli of the cai>in 
 Would ha\'e ])ro-trate(l them com])lctely. They had jour- 
 neyed threi' hundred and fifty mile- ; and their la-t run from 
 the !)a\" near litah. -onie -e\-ciity niile- ill a. riLiht line, was 
 tlu'oimh the hummoek.- at thi- a.]i[)alliim t em))e!'al ure. I'oor 
 iriii.iw- ! a- tiiey tiu'ew o])c!i their I-i-kiiiiM tiarmeiit- hy the 
 >lo\-e. how the\' reii-hed the -caiity luxuri"- wiiich W'v had to 
 ofi'er thi'iii. The cdrfi-c, and l!,e !iii-at-lii-''uit -iiup. and th(.' 
 
 mi)la--e-. and t!,e whe;it hread. (■\'en the --alt !i(irf;. \\Tieh i lUr 
 
 >r\\v\y inri 'ade t tie re-t of U- to toueh — how I laV reli-hed It 
 
 all! fur iiiMir ihaii two niwulli- they had li\"ed cm fro/eu 
 .-eal ale I wali'U.--meat.''
 
 PEIVATIOXS Ay J) SUFFIClUXCrS 227 
 
 To Dr. Ranch's dctcM-mination to stand I)y the l)rijf was 
 due the pj-c-^o'vat ion of the cntii'c i)arty, for liad hv hccn less 
 firm in his rosolntion. the entire (>xpedition would un- 
 doui)tedly have ])erislied on the ice. 
 
 •' Fehruai'N' closes," writes tlu^ lu-roic leader; ''thank God 
 the la])se of its tweni y-ei<ilit days I Should the thirty-one 
 of the coniin.ii; ]\Iarch not drau' us further downward, w(^ may 
 ho])e I'oi- a succ(>ssful close to this dreary drama. ]>y A])ril 10 
 we should have seals ; and wlien they come, if we remain to 
 W(>lcome them, we can call oui'selves saved. J5ut a fair review 
 of our ]iros])ects tells me that I nuist look the lion in the face. 
 The scui'vy is steadily j2;ainin,a; on us. I do my best to sus- 
 tain the more des])(>rate cases, Imt as fast as I partially huild 
 U]) one, another is stricken down. Of \\w six \\'()rkers of our 
 party, as 1 counted them a month a.2,'o, two are unaJjIe to do 
 out-door work, and the r(>mainin,<>; four di^■ido the duty of 
 the >liit) anionji them. Hans rnustf-rs liis I'cmain.ins (Mier<i-i(~s 
 to coiuluct the hunt. Pi^terscn is his dishe;u'ten(Ml, mo])ino; 
 as-istant. The other Two, Bonsall and myself, have all the 
 daily offices of hous(>hold and hos])ital. 
 
 " we cho)) live lari2.'(> sacks of ice, cut six fathoms of eight- 
 inch hawser into junks of a foot each, serve out tlie meat 
 vrlicn we ]\a\c it, hack at the molasses, and hew out with 
 crow-har aiul ax(~ th.e ])ork and dried a])]iles ; ])ass up tlie 
 foul slo|) and cle;msin,a:s of our dormitory, anrl in a word, cook, 
 sciillnini:( , and attend the sick. 
 
 ■■.\dd('(l 1() tiiis, for five nights running. T have kept watch 
 from S P.M. to 4 a. At., catching such na])s as 1 could in tlu^ day 
 without ch.'tn'nng my cloth(\<, hut cai'cfully waking ev("ry 
 liour to note thermometers." 
 
 Tli(^ sufferin^s endured diunng tlie month of March iwv 
 ]iaini"u!ly interi^sting. TIad Dr. Kane"s sti'engtl! given way 
 at tliis junctin-(\ tlie whole j)arty. dc])i'ive(l of thcii- leading 
 spirit, must ha\'e perished. He attributes his comparali\-e
 
 oos 
 
 77//-; CIIKAT WHITE XORTJI 
 
 iiniuunity from sciir\-y to "rat-sou])." Tlicsc rodents, sur- 
 vivhi<^' the hlcak winter, had overrun the ship ; but he was the 
 only man who would eat them. IIavin<i' n(j i'uel, the (Mily 
 meth(jd of heating' was the J'l<l<imo method of lamps : tlie 
 soot and fatty carlKjn hlaekin<i' e\-('rything on which it re>te(h 
 
 Heroic metliods were made to keep in touch with the 
 friendly natives, and Hans, on more than one occa>ion, save(l 
 the life of the party by securing fresh meat from them. 
 
 To add to their troubles, two men attemj^ted to desert 
 at this critical junctiUH': cnily one succeeded — Ciodfrey — 
 who joined the ]-^>kimos. But stran,u'e as it may seem, \]i\< 
 man returned with a su])pl\' of meat foi' his (les])erate com- 
 rades, while i'('fti>in_si' t(j return on board >hii). Fearin.u' (Uxl- 
 frey mitibt have done bodily harm to Han>, who was ab>ent, 
 Dr. ]\ane (letermined to fol!oA\' the man and bj-inii hiin ])ack. 
 To this end hf> made a joui'ney alouLi' with a dou' -Icflo-f of 
 o\-er ei.ii'hty miles to tlie K.-kimo .--ett lenient , and retui'iied \\-ith 
 lii> man. 
 
 There was no other altei'nativc- Init to jirf-pare for aban- 
 doiiinu' the A'lrai,r( , as early in the s])rin.u' as the weatlu'r 
 Would ])ermit. and ho]")e to reac-h the l");ini>h settlements at 
 r])ei-na\'ik. Px'fore tlu> \h>h\< could be ti'an-fei-red to the 
 o])en Water, imich labotu' in pr('])arat ion mu>t I »e cxix-nded, and 
 the mo-t (;f the ]-)art\' ^\■ere biedriddeii and unable to move. 
 
 Xot until May 20, Is.l."), werr- the\- able to bid farewell 
 to the briii'. and the I'c treat wa- >t art eil under the mo-t t rying 
 expei-ieiice- of -ickn('^< and famine. P)y .lune 17. they -tood 
 be-iile o])en -ea. but not for fift\-— ix more da\'- did they I'each 
 ( 'l)''rn;i\"ik. 
 
 Hefore the o]")en watei' wa- re;ieli<'(l, a -ad aTni traU'ic 
 ;icci(|ent had b'-falhii one of the al)!e-t men. "I li;id 
 h'tt the ])arty i»n the floe." write- Dr. I\;ine, '•with nia!i\' 
 appreheii-inn- U>r their >afety, and the re-ult. ])ro\-ed they 
 W! !'e iKjt wilhijut cau-e. While cro^-iuL!: a "tide-hole" one
 
 AllAXDONMEXT OF THE ''ADVAXCE" 22!> 
 
 of the niiiiici's of the Hope's s1(mIj>;(' broke thi-outi,'h, and, but 
 for the str('n,!;lh and ])r('S('ii('<' of mind <jf Ohlscn, the boat 
 would have .u'onc under. He saw the ice give way, and, by a 
 violent exei'eise of ,strentitli, ])assed a ea})stan-bar under tiie 
 sled,i;;e, and thus bore the load till it was hauled on to safer ice. 
 He was a very jiowerful man, and nh<>;ht Jiave done this with- 
 out injuring' himself, but it would seem his footing gave way 
 under him, forcing him t(_) make a still moi'e des])(M'at(> effort 
 to extricate hims(>lf. It cost hiim his hfe ; he di(Ml three days 
 aflerwai'ds. 
 
 '■ 1 was bringing down CU^jrge St(^phenson from the sick- 
 station, ;md, my sledge Ix'ing lu^avily kiden, I had just 
 crossed, with somt^ anxi(^ty, near the s])ot at wliich the accident 
 occurrcMl. A little way beyond we met Mi'. Ohlsen, sedated 
 U])on a lump of ic(^ and very ])ale. H(^ ])ointed to tlu^ cam]) 
 about three miles farther on, and told us in a faint \'oice, that 
 he had not detaiiKxl tlu^ jxu'ty : he duid a little cram]) in the 
 small of his back,' l)ut would soon be b(>tter. 
 
 ■' I ])ut him at oncc^ in Ste])hens()n's })lace, and drove him 
 on to the Faith. Tlua'c^ he was ])laced in tlie stca-n sheets of 
 tlie boat, and well muflied U]) in our b(\-t buffalo robes. 
 Duiing all that night }w was assidiiousl}' att(aided by Dr. 
 nay(>s : Init hc^ sank ra])idly. His sym])toms had from the 
 fii'st a ('(M'tain obscur(> but fatal r(--semblance to our wint(a''s 
 tetanus and filled us \vith forebodings." 
 
 The sti-ength of the stricken band was gradually reaching 
 its mininnnn. I'he (^xei'tion of l)ailing the imseaworthy boats 
 i'(Hiuir(>d ;il! tlu* strength left to tlu* (aifeebled ])arty. They 
 br(-athed hea\"ily, their limbs swelled, and they suffered from 
 in-oiiuha, so tliat each day rendered their weakened efforts 
 le-s ])romising. At this crisis of tluar foi'tunes. tliey saw a 
 larg{> seal fioating on a small ])atch of ice, and seemingly 
 asieej). 
 
 "Trembling with anxiety," wi'ites T)v. Kane, ""we i)re])ared
 
 2:50 
 
 TIIK (J RE AT WHITE NORTH 
 
 to crawl down U])oii him. P(!tersoii, with a hir<2;c En<2;hsh 
 ritic, was stationed in the how, and slockin<:;s were drawn 
 o\i'r the oars as nuifllers. As we ncared th(> animal, our excite- 
 ment l)ecain(! so intense that the nuni could hardly kec]) stroke. 
 lie was \\o\ aslec]) ; for he reared his head when we were 
 almost within rilie-shot ; and to this day I can remember the 
 hard, careworn, almost des])aii-in^ e\])i'ession of the men's 
 thin faces as they saw him move; their thin lives de])ended 
 on his ca])tm'e. I de])ressed m\' hand nervously, as a si<;-nal 
 h)r I'etei'sen to fire. Mcdarx' hun,<>; U])on his oar, and the 
 boat seemed to me within certain ranj^'e. Jx)okin,^' at J^'ter- 
 sen, I saw that the poor tellow was pai'alysed by his anxiety, 
 tryin<i- vainly to obtain a I'cst for his ,<i,'un a.<i;ainst \\\v cut- 
 water of the boat. Tlie seal rose on his fore thpijcr, t2;azed 
 at us h)r a UKjment with fiia;htened ciu'iosity, and coiled him- 
 self for a ])[un,i>;(\ At that instant, sinuiltaneously with the 
 crack of our rille, he r(4axed his lonu; len,u;l h on the ice, and, 
 at the N'cry brink of lh(^ water, his head h'll hel])ie,-;s to one side. 
 I would have ordered another shot, but no discipline could 
 ha\'e conti'olle<l the men. W'iih a wild \-ell, each x'ociferat in,<^ 
 accordin.t;- to his own im])uise, t hey ui\u'ed their boats upontlu* 
 floes. .V crowd of hands seized the seal, and bore him u]) to 
 safei' ice. The men seemed half craz\'. I had not realized 
 how much we were reduced by al)solute famine. They I'an 
 o\-er the (ioe, ci'yiii,!;' and lauiihinu', aiid bi'andisliiiiu; their 
 kiii\('<. It was not li\'e minutes befos'e evei'y man was suck- 
 iiii;' liis bloody finjicrs, or mouthiiu!,' loiiti' sti'i])s of raw l)lubb(M". 
 Xol an ounc(> of thi-^ seal was lost." 
 
 A few d;i\-s later the familiar cadence of a ''halloo" fell 
 upon t he ears. 
 
 " l.i-teti, Petersen! oars, men!" 'Av'hat is it".'" -and 
 he li-;tcne(! (|iii( lly ;it \\v>\ ;ii)d then, tremblinu' said, in a half 
 \\iii-pii\ '■ I )anne in;irker- ' " 
 
 "I I'einenibcr ihl-^," \vrites Kane, ''the fii'st tone of ('hris-
 
 ABAXDONMEyr OF THE ''ADVANCE'' 231 
 
 tian voice which liad greeted our return to the world. How 
 we all stood up and jMH^'cd into the distant nooks ; and how 
 the cr\' came to us a,gain, just as, havin.u; seen nothing, we 
 were doubting whetlier the whole was not a dream ; and 
 then how. with long swee])s, the white a.sh cracking under the 
 s})ring of the rowers, we stood for the cape that the sound 
 proceeded from, and how nervously we scanned the gi'cen 
 s])ots which our experience, grown now into instinct, told us 
 would he tlie likely camping ground (jf wa>'farer. By-and-l)y 
 — for we nnist have been ])ulling a good half hour — the 
 singh> mast of a small shallop showed its(df ; and Petersen, 
 who had l)e(ai very (juiet and grave, burst out into an inco- 
 herent fit of crying, only relieved by ])roken exclamations of 
 mingled Danish and English. ' 'Tis the L'pernavik oil-l)oat ! 
 th(> Fraulein Flaischer ! Carlie Alossyn, tlu^ assistant cooper, 
 must be on his road to Kingatok for })lubber. The Mariane 
 (the oiK^ animal shi])) has come, and Carlie Mo^syn — ' and 
 here he did it all <jver again, gulping down his words and 
 wringing his hands." 
 
 Another halt, a night's rest, and the settlement was reached, 
 wluM'e a genei'ous welcome^ awaited the weary ex]il(jrers. 
 
 '' F(^r eighty-four days," says Kan(\. "we had lived in the 
 0]ien air. Our liabits were hard and weather-worn. We 
 could n(M ren.iain within the four walls of a house without a 
 distressing s(m«^ of suffocation. I'jut we drank coffee that 
 night befori- many a hospitable thresliold. and list(Mie(l again 
 •dud again to the hymn of \\-eh'ome, which, sung by many 
 \'oic(>s, grci'tcd oui' deliverance.'' 
 
 The Danish ve«el was not ready for her homeward journey 
 till the 4th of Scjjt ember. ( )n tlu^ (itli, Dr. Kane and liis ])aii \" 
 left l^])ernavik. in. the Mnricni . \vh()<(> cai)tain had promised 
 to con\-ey tliem to th(^ Shetland Islands ; on the 11th they 
 touclied at (lodlun'en, the ins]M'Cl orate of Xorth Greenland, 
 iind later at Disco, where the Mariane remained a few da\'s.
 
 2-]2 THE anEAr wiiitk yoirrii 
 
 As cafly as Fchnian- .'], 18")."). a resolution had ])ass('(l 
 ('oiiUi-c.-s aut h!)i-iziii,a; the Sccrctai'}' of the \a\'\' to ilcspatch 
 a >uitablc steamer and lender for the rehef of Dr. Kane. The 
 JU'lcd-sc and A relic were accordingly e(iuip])ed and ])ut in 
 command of Lieutenant Hart stein, accomjxinied \)y a brother 
 (A Dr. Kane. I^\' July o, the relief (>x])edition had reachecl 
 Lie\'el\'. I>le of Disco, (ireenland, and from this })oint Lieu- 
 tenant nai-tsl(>in sa\'s in a letter to the Secretary (jf the Xavy : 
 "To av(.)id further risk of human life, in a search s(.) extremel}' 
 hazardous, I would suggest the im])i'opriety of making any 
 eltoi'ts to i'elie\"e us if we should not return : fe('ling c(jnfident 
 that Ave shall lie able to accomi)li-h all necessary foi' (jiu' own 
 releax', under the most extraoi'dinary circumstances." 
 
 ILu'ing forced a ])assage through the closelx' ])acked ice in- 
 to the n(jrth A\'ater, 1 he\' i)roceedc(l to examine the coast from 
 ('a])e York to Wolstcnlujlme Island, also ('a|)e Alexamler 
 and Sutlierland Inland. 
 
 A few stone- heaped together near Point Pellam ga\'e 
 assurance of Kane's having been there, but no other cicw 
 \\'a< -ecure(l. Taking a I'etrograde cour-e, ihey examined 
 ('a])(' Ilatherton and Littleton 1-land. finall\' reaching a 
 ])oint -omc (ifleen mile< nort hwe-t of ( 'a])'' Alexander. Here 
 the\' were -ur])rised to fall in Avitli some 1-^-kimo-. in wiio-e 
 ])o--!'.--ioii were toimd certain articles known to lia\'e be- 
 longed to Di-. Kane, .\tter diliu'ent iiKiuii'ie-, they leai'ned 
 of tlie abandonment of the shi]) and the I'eti'i'at to the --outh 
 of 1 )!'. I\ane'< part w 
 
 Afie!' -ome furllier reconnoit rimz' in the hope of findinii' the 
 ])arty -hould the>' lie in the \'ieinit\\ Lieutenant Hai't-lein 
 decided to maki' for I "])ei-na\"ik. .\ furiou< u'aje dro\'e them 
 out 'if llicii' eiiur-e .ailrifl in tlie ice p.aek. 
 
 "After thi- L:ale." wi'ile- Dr. Kane'-, liriilii-r. "we l.ad lit lie 
 
 nv iio niMi-i' U'liiibji'- with the iei- ; iin<- iir ! wo l irililCi.' de- 
 
 ti-iiiioii- III' a few da\- brouu'hl u- to open water. We had
 
 IlETRKAT AND IlKSd'E Zoo 
 
 drifted so far to the south that Lievely was nearer tlian 
 Upernavik, and Captain Hartstein determined to put in 
 tlicre. We had a heavy gale the night after we left the ice ; 
 but so glad were we all to g(^t clear of it, that I heard no 
 comjjlaints about rough weather. It cleared away beau- 
 tifully towards morning, and we were all on the deck, ad- 
 miring the clear water, and the fantastic shapes of the water- 
 washed icebergs. All hands were in high si)irits ; the gale 
 I'lad blown in the right direction, and in a few hours we siiould 
 l)e in Lievel}'. The rocks oi its land-locked harbor were 
 already in sight. We were discussing our news by anticipa- 
 tion, when the man in the crow's nest cried out : 'A ])rig 
 in the h.arljor !' and the next minute, beftjre we had time to 
 congratulate {>ach other on the chance of sending letters 
 home, tliat she had hoisted AnKM'ican colors — a delicate 
 com])liment, we thought, on tlie part of our friends, the Danes. 
 I believe our captain was about to return it, when to our 
 sur])rise, she hoist(Hl another flag, the veritable one which 
 had gone out witli the A'lvnncr, bc-aring the nam(^ of -Mr. 
 Henry (Irimiell. At th(^ same moment, two boats were seen 
 I'onuding the {)oint, and pulling towards us. Did they 
 contain our lo<t fiiends? Yes, the sailors had settk^d that. 
 "Tho-e ai'e Yankees, sir ; no Danes ever feathered their oars 
 that way.' 
 
 "l''or those who had friends among the missing part\'. th(» 
 fr-w minute> that followed wei'e of bitter anxiety ; for the men 
 in the boats were long-bearded and we;ither-beaten ; tlie\' 
 had strange wild co-tumes ; there was no possibility of 
 r(M'ognition." 
 
 In Dr. Kane's (.)wii words, let us conclude the cha])ter : — 
 
 '■Pi'esently we wen- alonuside. An (jfHcer whom I shall 
 
 e\-('i' I'eiiK^mbei- as a chei'islieil fiietid. ("a])tain Ilart-teiii, 
 
 hailed a little man in a ragged ilantiel shirt. 'Is thi- Dr. 
 
 Kane?" and with the ' Yes I ' that followed, the rigging was
 
 !2:j4 the grkat white yoRTri 
 
 maiuuMl l)y our countrymen, and cheers Avolromcd us back 
 to the social world of love which they r(^i)r(\-<entcd." 
 
 Dr. Kane and his ])arty reached Xew Y(jrk, (Jctol)er 11, 
 isr)."). aud received an enthusiastic' welcome, after an absence 
 of thirty months. Honours of the most ilattcring kind 
 awaited him on both side- ()( the Atlantic, Init his health 
 wa- completely br(,)ken 1 >}• the trials of liis wonderful journey. 
 ( )n l-"el)ruary Ki, lSo7. he died at Havana, in the thirty- 
 seventh \'ear of his age.
 
 
 ,' J> 
 
 ' V.\W -I i\ Ml i\ I Ml \ 1 
 
 The Tall ^llaft, of jialr Lnvcn <;i initi . \\ i- ili-i dm h '1 1>\ 
 Dr. Katii-
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 Dr. Hayes's expedition. Winter (juarters at Port Foullve. — Green- 
 land const. — Death of ;^onntag. — Dr. Hayes's journey. — Attempt 
 to cross ^niith k^ouiid. — Hayes's farthest. — "" Opt'n Polar Sea.'' 
 — Homeward bound. 
 
 Ix 1S60, Dr. Ilayos, who had accompanied the second 
 (h-iniiell expedition and rcnidered much valtiable* service to 
 Dr. Kane and his party, once more sailed from America for 
 the pm'pose of completing the sur\-ey of the north coasts of 
 Greenland and Grinnell Land and to make stich explorations as 
 he might find practicable in the direction of the Xorth Pole. 
 
 ''^ly proposed base of operations," writes Dr. IIa\'es, 
 'Avas Grinnell Land, which I had discovered on my former 
 voyage, and had jjersonally traced btwond latitude 80°, far 
 enough to satisfy tliat it was available for my design." 
 
 On the morning of July 8, 1800, the rtiilcd Stufcs was fairly 
 on her way, and, by July oO, Di'. IIa>Ts had the satisfaction 
 of being oiu'e more within the Arctic Girck^. 
 
 'A\'e had some rough handliiig in Da\ds' Strait," he writes. 
 '■()nc(' I thought we had stu'ely come ingloriously to gi'ief. 
 ^V(^ W('r(> running b(d'or(> th(^ wind and figiitiug a wrt^tched 
 cross-sea und(a' rinM'ed fore and mainsail and jib, when the 
 foi'e-rail was carried away : — down came e\'erything to tlu^ 
 deck : and there ^\■as left not a stitch of canvas on the scliooncM' 
 but the lumlxaing mainsail. It was a mir:u'le thai we did 
 not broach to and go to the i)ottom. Nothing saved us but 
 a steady liand at thc^ helnn" 
 
 After se\'er;d inu'row escajies in the ice fic-ld. the United 
 Sldtt'.'^ was at i(>ngth compelkvl to take ti[) lua' winter r[tiarters 
 
 23.-)
 
 Till-: (.iih'AT wiiiTK xoirni 
 
 al Port l'"()iilkt\ on \\\v (\vvvn\iuul coast, al)()ut tw(Miiy miles 
 to tlic south ot' lii'iisx'lacr harbour. An ahuiulaut coiuim-^- 
 sariat, aniplx' sui)])hc(l l)y I'rcsh meat, kept up tlic general 
 hcahh of the l)art\' during the long night, and they ('sca[)cd 
 scur\\', which had proved so fatal to l)i". lvanc'"s crew. 
 
 A gi'cat catastroi)lK' was tlic death by freezing of Sonntag, 
 the a>tronoinv'r, who had been a \'aluable member of \)r. 
 Kane's ex])edition, and a nuich-l)el()\'ed friend of Dr. IIa\"es. 
 Accompanied by Hans TT(Midrik, he had started on a sledge 
 journey to the I'^tah Eskimo. On Februar\' 1, Dr. IIay(\s 
 A\rites : — 
 
 ■'Hans lia- gi\-en me the story of his journey, and T sit 
 down to record it with vei'\' painful emotions. The tra\'ellers 
 rounde<l Cape Alexander without diflicuUy, finding the ice 
 solid; the\' did not halt until t!ie\' had r(>ached Sutherland 
 Island, w liere they built a snow hut and r(>sted ftjr a few hours. 
 ( 'out inning thence down the coast , they sought the ]']s(|uimaux 
 at Soi'falik \\'ithout success. The naii\'(>diut at that placo 
 being in ruins, they made for their shelter anothei' house (jf 
 snow; and, aftca- biding well reste(l, they set out directl\' for 
 Xofihumberland Island, having concluded that it was u.-eless 
 to seek longer for nati^'s on the nortli >ide of the Sound. 
 Tlii'>' had proceeded on their course^ about four or fi\'e mil(S 
 a- neai'l} a< I can judge from Hans" description. v,-heii Sonn- 
 t ;ig. growing a lilt le chille( 1, spi-ang off the sl(>dge and ran ahead 
 ot the dog> to warm him>elf w\\\i the exei'ci>e. Tiie tangling 
 (,'f a ti'ace obliging Hans to halt the te;mi I'or a \r\v minuli-s, 
 he fell >oiMc di-tance behind, and was huri'ying to catch 
 up, whi'ii he -uddenly olxerx'cd Sorm1;ig -inkinu'. He had 
 come upon the ihiii ice, co\-(M'ing ;i I'eceiitly open tide-ci'ack, 
 and, proit.ably not iib<er\'ing his footinu', he steppml upon it 
 im.MW a!-e-. Han- hastened to hi- !'e-(aie, .ami aitleil him out 
 o!' ihe watei', .and then turned back I'or the >heltci' whirh they 
 h.ad I'lTcntK- ,ai );iiid(ine(l. A light wind ua- blowinii :it th(^
 
 I)i;. IIAVKS .S EXrKDITION l^o ( 
 
 tiiiic from the north(\ist, and this, according to Hans, caused 
 Sonntag to seidv tlie liut without stopping to chang(> liis wet 
 clothing. At first lie ran beside the sledge, and thus guarded 
 against dangxn* ; but after a while he rode, and when they 
 halted at Sori'alik, Hans discovered that his companion was 
 stih" and speechless. Assisting him into the hut with all 
 possible despatch, Hans states that he removed the wet and 
 frozen clothing, and placed Sonntag in the sleeping-l)ag. He 
 next gav(^ him some l)randy which he found in a flask on the 
 sledge ; and, having tightly closetl the hut, he lighted the 
 alcohol lamp, for the doubh^ purpose of elevating the tempera- 
 ture and making some coffee ; but all of his (efforts were 
 unavailing, and, after remaining for nearly a da\' unconscious^ 
 Sonntag died. He did not speak aftcn' reacliing the hut, and 
 left no message of any kind. After closing u|) tlie uKjuth of 
 the hut, so tliat t!ie body might not be disturbed by bears 
 or foxes, Hans again set out southward, and reached Xor- 
 thumberland Island without inconvenience." 
 
 Eai'h' in A])ril, ISOl, Dr. Hayes left the ship "to plunge 
 into the wilderness." Having pr(n'iously ascertaincnl that an 
 advance al(.)ng the Greenland sh(jre was utterly impo>si!jl(', 
 he re-olved to cro-s the sound, and to try his f(jrtuncs along 
 tlie coa-t of ( Irinnell Land. 
 
 '■I)y wiuding Xi) the right and l(>ft," h(> writer, '"and by 
 occasionally I'eti'acing our ste],is. we maiuigcd to get owv tlu^ 
 first few mill's without much embai'rassment, but further on 
 the ti'ack was rouLdi. ])a-t de>cri])tion. I can c()m])are it 1o 
 nothing but a promiscuous accunnilaticjn of ri.x'ks pileil uj) 
 ()\'(M' a A"ast ])lain in great heaps and endless ridge.-. The 
 inTerslice> between these closely accumulated ice-ma>.-es are 
 filled u]") to some extent with drifted snow." 
 
 It i< not -uipri-ing that after such diflicult tra\'el. at the end 
 of tA\'enty-fi\-e d;iys tliey hud not yet rc^uche 1 l!;dfu'a\' acro-s 
 tiie .-ound.
 
 THE (;nEAT white yoinu 
 
 "My parry arc in a \"('ry sorry roiHlition,'" \vritos Dr. 
 IIayc>. ■"One (ji the iiicu lia> >praiiLc(l iij.s hack from lifting' ; 
 an(it}i(-r lia- .-praiiic(I iiis aiikh- ; aiKjthcr lias gastritis; an- 
 other a fri)--tc(l toe; and all arc ihorouglily ovcrvrhchncd 
 wiih faiiu'tie. Tiic men do not .-tand it a> wcdl as the dogs.'' 
 
 -\nd ihc ncx^ day, Api'il 2(), he writes : — 
 
 ■'■] feci toniglit thai I am gcttinu; raj)iddy to the end (;f my 
 rope, j-^ach day -ii'cngthen- th(.' conviciion, not onl\' that 
 we can ne\'cr reach ( d'inni'll Land, wiili pro\'isions for a 
 j<jni'Mey u]) the coa-l to the Polar ,^ea. hut that it cannot he 
 done at ail. I iia\'c ta.lkc<lto the o[Fic('rs, and they arc all of 
 tiii- opiniijn. Tiicy -ay the t'linu' i- hoj)elc--. Dodiic ]")Ut it 
 thu> : 'Yon migiit a.- avcII try to cro-> the city of Xew Yoi'k 
 o\'cr the hou-e-iops.' " 
 
 ddioiiLi'h di-!ieart(-ncd. their hold leader wa- not disconragerj. 
 and, -cndinu' t ht- main ])arty I)ack to l lie -chooner, he ('(jntinued 
 to lilunu'c i.ito the hunnnock<. After fourteen da\'s of almo>t 
 >upe;-hunian <-xertion, iu- reached tiie c(ja-i, .May 11, v.-hen he 
 Avriti- ; — 
 
 ■'In cajii]) at la-t, c]o>e uufler tlie land: aivl a- hai)iiy 
 a- m(-n can 'oe wiio iia\'e achie\-cd -ucce-- and await -u;.>!)er. 
 A- we rouuded to in a c(jnvenicnt place for oui' camp, 
 MeDouaid loMkeil ui) at 'he tall ( 'a))e, wiiich ro-^c ahove our 
 head- ; and, as ):(■ Turned .-iway to g(-t oui' furnace to })rep;t!-e 
 a much-uecded meah he Ava- heard to grurnlde in a serio- 
 comic loin-: 'Wclh I wonder if that i- laici. or only "(api! 
 r i'\'-::A\-:iy " aft er ail ? ' " 
 
 I'cU i!;iiUL:!i hind \^'a- reached, the ti'ials of the joui'ncy 
 a!o] ir tii'- co;i--! v.-f'-i' iione the h-- !iara--iicj:. A\ itji untii'iuu; 
 i-]\i'vsy. \h\ l!;;;\"e- pu-hed on uutil the \s\]i of A[a\', when 
 iurdie- 1 i-v ,M ;■,..-. ii. -(-11110 in!j)o--i! !". (c.\'!mr to a d^-ep hay, 
 mofi.-u witji a 'A-iiiii' -h. el and dai'k piitche-, the-e Jaio-j- 
 hi'i'iu' eitiii-!' -lift dccax'iici' iee (,r plicc- \'/hcre the ici' had 
 \\\'> ih\" di-aOOear.'d.
 
 BR. JIAVL'S'S EXr EDITION 239 
 
 ''And now," writes Dr. Hayes, '"my journey was ended, and 
 I had nothing to do but make my way liack to Tort Toulke. 
 The advancing season, tlie rapi(hty with which th(> tliaw 
 was taking place, tiie certainty that tli(> open water was eating 
 into Smith Sound as weU as througli ]^affin Bay frcjni the 
 south, as througli Kennedy Channel from the north, thus 
 endangering my return across to the (Ireerdand shore, warned 
 m.e that 1 had lingered long enough. 
 
 " It now only remained for us to ])lant our flag in token of 
 our disco\'ery, and to deposit a record ])ro()f of our presence. 
 The flags were tied to the w!ii])-lash, and suspend(Hl between 
 two tall rocks, and while we were building a cairn, they werc^ 
 allowed to {iutt(>r in the l.)reeze ; then, tearing a leaf from my 
 note-book, 1 wrote on it as follows : — 
 
 '■'This point, the most northern land that has e\-er been 
 reached, was visitcnl by the undersigned, Alay bSth, 19th, ISfil, 
 acconrpanicnl by (ieorge T. Knorr, tra\-elling dog-sl(>dge. 
 We arrived hei'e after a toiiscjme march of forty-six dax's from 
 ni}' winter harbor near ('ai)e Alexander, at the mouth of 
 Smith Sound. Aly obs(>rva1i(jns ])lace us in latitude (Sl^^ 3.")', 
 longitude 70° 'MY \V. Our fiu'ther pi'ogress was s1o])ped by 
 rotti^n ice and cracks. Kenu(Mly (/hanmd ap,])eai's to (\x])aud 
 intollie Polar Basin; and, satisfied tliat it is luivigable at 
 lea>t duriiig th(> months (jf .Ju!\'. August, and Se])teuil)er, 1 go 
 lu^uce to my winter harbor, to make auotluM' trial to get 
 through. Smith Sound with my ^'essel, after th(> ice breaks up 
 this summer. 
 
 "'I. I. Hayes. 
 
 "'May 19, 18(11.'" 
 
 "I ciuit the place with reluctance." lie writes. "'It ])os- 
 S(^ssed a fascination for me. and it was Avith no ordiriai'y s(>n- 
 sations that 1 cont(Mii|)lat(Hl my sit-aation, with one solitary 
 companion, in that hitherto untrodd(Mi desert ; A\-hi!e \nx 
 nearness to the earth's axis, the consciousness of standing
 
 240 
 
 Tin-: <,RKAT WHITE youTii 
 
 u])on kind Ix'voiul the limits (if ])rc\'i(ius (jliscrwaticjus, tlu^ 
 rcficctiou- wiiicli crnsscd in\' iiiiiid r('>])('Ctiii,u; tiic \'ast ocean 
 which la\" >i)read (jUt hclore lue, the th()U<iht that these ice- 
 iiirdled water- where dwell human heinjis of an unkno\vn race, 
 were circumstances calculated to iru'cst the very air with 
 my>t(!'y, to deepen the curiosity, and to strcn.uthen the reso- 
 lution to ])er>('ver(' in m\' determination t(j sail upon this sea 
 and to ex])l()re its furthe>t limits ; and as I recalled the 
 stru,u;ii'lcs ^^■hich had heen made to reach this sea, — throu<i;h 
 the ice and aero--- tlu- ice. — hy <i,('nerat ion> of lira\"e men, it 
 seemed as if the >pirits oi these * )ld W'orthie.- came t(j encour- 
 age me. a- their exjjerience had alread\' .uuidicd me : and I felt 
 that 1 had within my ji'ra>]) 'the jiTeat and notalile thin^'' 
 which had in>i)ired the zeal of >turdy l-'rcjni-her, ami that I 
 had achievcil the ho]jc of matchlc-,- Pari'\'." The mui-h- 
 di>cu— cd "o))en ])olar -ea." in A\iiich Dr. ilaye- had implicit 
 faith. ha> >ince keen found t(j he only the xtuth half of Ken- 
 nedy ( 'hamu-l. which frc'i'ze- late and ojien^ early, cjwinu' to l he 
 very hi,u,h tide-, tliat -ometimes I'i-e lhii't\' feet. Dr. llaye- 
 reached the -chooiier. Jime ;■!. after a!i al i-eiice of two months, 
 in wtiicli he tra\"elied not le>< than IMOO miles. After careful 
 examination of hi> >hi]). Dr. Ila\'es foimd -he h.a<l u're.at 1\' 
 r-utfer-'d fi'om her exi)erience in the ice. and that, for tlie -.afety 
 ot' hi- party, threat care had to he e\erci-ed in lier na\'i- 
 ,uat ion. 
 
 ■d')\- dint of much earne-t exenion.'" he A\-i'itc-. "'and the 
 u-e ni l.oh- and -pike-. i )y rcpkicinu' tlie torn cul-w:itri-. 
 cai'efui calkiiiu'. and rmewal of the iron ])late-. -it .-ee!i!,'(l 
 jJi'oliaMe iliat the -chooncr A\'ou!d he -ea-wor'liy : Imt I wa- 
 
 forccij Id aUl'ce \V\]\[ iny -ailillLi' Illa-'er, that to -tl•il^e the ice 
 
 auain wa- -lU'c 1 1 > -ink he!-." 
 
 Dr. Ih'iX'e- aw;iitid wiih -ome anxiety the hreakinu' U]) of 
 thf ice. and the niier.atinn of the -clio^ner. Xot until July 
 11, 1 St, P (11,1 t he f ' nil) il Slnti s ulide out to -ea under full -ail,
 
 DR. HAVES' S EXl'EDITIOX 241 
 
 and by August 10 she was in latitude^ 74° 19', longitude 06°. 
 By the 12th they made land whicli proved to be Horse's 
 Head, and three days later found the seh(Joner at an(4ior in 
 Upernavik harl)our. 
 
 "While the chain was \'et clinking in the hawse-hole," 
 writes Dr. Hayes, "an old Dane, dressed in seal-skins, and 
 possessing a small stock of English and a large stock of articles 
 to trade, pulled off to us with an Eskimo crew, and with 
 little ceremony, clambered over the gang\va\'. Knorr met 
 him, and, without any ceremony at all, demanded the news. 
 
 " 'Oh ! dere's plenty news !' 
 
 " ' Out with it, man ! AMiat is it ? ' 
 
 "'Oh! de Sout States dey go agin de Xort' States, and 
 dere's plenty fight !' 
 
 ''I heard the answer, and wondering what strange compli- 
 cation (jf Europ(^an politics had kindled another Contincnital 
 war, called tliis Polar Eimna?us to the quarter deck. Had 
 he any nenvs from America ? 
 
 "'Ohl 'tis 'merica me s])eak! De Sout' States, you see? 
 and dere's plenty fight I ' 
 
 ''Yes, I did s(h> ! but I did not believe that he told the 
 truth, and awaittnl letters which I knew nuist have conu? out 
 with tlic Danisli vessel, and which were immediately sent for 
 to the Oovei'junent Hous(\" 
 
 44)e condition of the schoon(H- necessitated ])utting in at 
 Halifax for rei)airs, and, four days ai'ter hviving, they made 
 the Boston Lights. "We ])icked uj) a ])il()t,"" vriitc^s Dr. 
 Hayes, "out of tlu^ thickest fog that 1 have ever seen soutli 
 of th(^ Arctic Circle, and with a light wind stood into harlxji'. 
 As the night wore on tlie wind fell away :dmost to calm ; 
 the fog tliicl'Cened more and mor<\ if that were ]i()s<i'i)le, as we 
 sagged along over tlu^ dc^ad watt^r- toA\'ai'd t'le anclioi'age. 
 The night was fill(Ml witli an oi)]^re--4ve gloom. The liii'hts 
 luuiging at the mast-heads of the vessels which we ])ass(Ml had
 
 Tin: GiiF.A'i' Willi K yoiriii 
 
 tlu' ,u!ia>tl\' ,uliiinii('!' <jf ta])('rs Ituniinji; in a charnel-house. 
 W'c saw no vessel niovin.ti,' lull our own, and vwn those which 
 hiy at anchor seemed hl;e ])hant(jni s!ii])s floatin,<2; in the niu!'l-:y 
 air. I ne\'er saw the >hi])'> (-(jnipany so hl'ele^s, (jr <o de- 
 })re~;.-e(h e\-en in times (jf r("al dcin^cr." 
 
 ■"1 hmded on Lon,u,' W'liarf,"" he continues, ''and. hnnid my 
 way into Stale Street. 'J'wo or three lij^ui'cs wei'e mo\'ing 
 through the tliick vapoi's, and their solemn h)ot-i'aU hi'oke 
 the worse than Arctic stihness. 1 readied Washington Street, 
 and wahced anxiously westward. A newsboy pa>sed me. I 
 seized a paper, and tlie iii'.-t thing which caught my eye was 
 the account oi the PkiU's IjIuIV oat lie, in which had fallen many 
 of the nohlest <on< of i)0-t on ; and it seemed a< if 1 he vei'y air 
 had >hroude(l it-elf in moui'iiing i'oi' them, and t hat the heavens 
 we])t tears h>r the eity's <lain. I was \\-(>nding my wa\' to 
 tlie hou-e of a fi'ii'nd, hut I th(jught it likely tliat he ^\'as not 
 thei'e. I felt lil:e a si !'anger in a strange kuid, and >'et e\'ery 
 oliject which I j)a-~ed wa> fanuliai'. Friend-, eountiy, 
 e\-erylhing >ecmed -wallo'Wcd U]) in <ome \-a-t c;ilamity, and, 
 doulitful aiid iri'e.-olute, I turned liaek -ad and dejected, and 
 found my wa\' on hoai'd again thi'ough the dull. duM fog." 
 
 1 )i'. Haye.-^ made another journey oeyond t!i(- Ai'ctic ( 'ii'ch; 
 in 1S()'.», in tlu' I'dnilm-. a- the gue>t of the arti-t I^raihoi'd. 
 *^)Xi-v a tlioii-and mile- of the ('u-eenlaud coa-t A\'a,- \'i.-iled, 
 tei'iiiiiKit ing a good wa;c oeyond t he la-l out po-t of ci\ ili/at ion 
 on tl:c !J.'!o1j(-, in the h'llds! of the much-dl'(';i.ded "ice-pack'"' 
 of Mekille Wax.
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 m 
 
 Charles Francis Hall. — l^arly life. — Interest in fate of Sir Jol 
 Franklin. — First jotu-ney to Creenland. — Discovery of I'ro- 
 l:)ishrr nlics. — lAjX'rienccs and study of the l-]>kini(;s. — Second 
 journey. — Delays and disai^pointnients. — Sledtiinii' trips. — King 
 Willianrs Land at last. — I'ranklin relics. — liiturn of Hall to 
 United States. — Polari-^ expedition. — Pieaches lii.uli northing. — 
 Flail's si. 'due joui'ney. — lielui'ii and death. — P(il(iri-< winters. 
 Xo escape. — PohirU is wrec-kcd. — Part of crew adrift on the 
 ice-floe. - - Remainder build winter hut. — Final re.-cue and return 
 to United States. 
 
 The ]:iersonality of Charles Francis Hall is singularly 
 interesting. B(.)rn in Rux-hoster, Xew Hainpslure, in FS21, 
 he received a common .scIkmjI (Nlucation and ])ursne(l the voca- 
 tion of blacksmith, jotirnalist, stationer, and engraver. 
 
 In 1S.")0, while livinG: in Cincinnati. ( )hio, h.e became deeply 
 interested in the fate of Sir John Fraid<!in, e.nd for ovf^r irine 
 years made a thorough study of Arctic hi-tory and, es])ecial!y, 
 of tlie Fra.idvlin search expe^litions. Uncon^dnced l)y the 
 admirable re])ort of Cai)tain M'Cdinteck in FS.7.» of tlie death 
 of Franklin and l!ie fate of hi> ci)m]ianii)ns. Hall maintained 
 the oj^iiiioii iha1 s!n'\dvors of the tinforttmab^ ox]")e(liti(jn rtmst 
 still :u' lixdnu' among the IXkimos, and could be found. 
 Ry trie ;iid of public sulxerijit ions and tlie lif)c-ra! patromige 
 ot' Mr. I!em'\" (iriiuiell. Hail tmdertook a jotu'tiey. May 20. 
 I'^bO. sailinu' fi'om Xew Foivlon. on tic whaler, droruc Ilrnri/, 
 coimnanded by ( 'ajitain S. ( ). Ri'didingt on. 
 
 Forty d;iy^ kitei- 7th of .bdy, jstif);, the (i-'ir'/i Jhi.r;i 
 dropjjed anclior at llolsteiiiboi'g. (ireenland. Hall was uu- 
 
 •?_■:->
 
 l'44 THE CUKAT WIIITK yoUTII 
 
 successful in the iiuiin object of his un(lertakin<i' fhis proposed 
 j()urne\' to Kiu.u' A\'illi;un Landj and s])ent the ])est ])ai-t of 
 two \'ear> near I'Vohisiier I^ay, where lie accjiiii'ed much knowl- 
 edge of the s])eech, habits, and life of th(^ Eskimos, and dis- 
 covered a ([uantity of relics left by Fro])isher's (\\i)e(lition of 
 1.177 l.")7S. 
 
 Of the fii'st traditionary history ,e;ained from the I^skimos 
 relative to Frobislier's (wj^edition, Hall sa}'s in notes tmdc^r 
 date of Apiil 0. ISIil : - 
 
 "Amon,u' th(> traditions lianded down from one tieneration 
 to another, there is this : tliat many — very man}' years a<io, 
 some w}iit(^ men built a shi]) on (Mie of the i>land> of Frobisher 
 I)a\' and went away. 
 
 "I thinlc I can >ee throu<ih this in this way: FrobisluT, 
 in l.")7S, assembled a laru'e ])ai't of his fleet in what he called 
 '('ountes-: of Warwick Sound' ! >aid to be in that bay below 
 u>i, Vviien a comicil wa- held on the 1st of Auji'ust, at which 
 it wa-; determined to send all ])er-^()ns and thin,u;s on shore ui")on 
 '('()unte>-of ^\'ai'W!ck l>land' ; and on Au.u'ust 2d orders wer(^ 
 ])r()claimed, by sound of ti'um]iet, for the (guidance of the 
 compan\' durinti' th(-ii' abode thereon. For reasons stated 
 in the hii-lory. the comi)any did not tai'i'y here lon^tr. but de- 
 ])arti'(l U)v ' Milii fi'cnqnild.' and thence to hji.u'land. how 
 m:i\' iKit the fact of limlier-. chips, etc.. etc.. lun'inti' been fuund 
 on ()!!'' of ilie i-Janib within a da\''> journey oi' hei'c) many 
 >'ear- a'.:-o. i)ro\-r that the said material^ Aver(> of thi< l'"ro- 
 lii-iicr'- coni]);!ny, a!id 1 hat hence the Fmuit ti-adition? In a 
 f''W diay- 1 h'ipc to b'> cxploritiLi' h'robi^hei' ]);i\'." 
 
 1 >r-^crii liuLi- t he cii'cum-lance- of hi- interest inu' di-co\'ei'y on 
 ( oiinli-<of W'ai'wi.e!.; Maud. Hall wi'ile.-: 
 
 ••\\V coniinued on .around the i-l.and. findiim'. (>\-er\' lew 
 fathom- in (tur pi-oure--. numei'oii- Imuiit relic<. At lenuih 
 we arrivi'd at a plain th,at extende(l back a considerable 
 di-t.aiice fr(,ni tlif eoa-t. Here We recounizei 1, at oiu' riu'ht.
 
 fllA n L fS FI!Ay<IS IIA L L 
 
 24." 
 
 about sixt}' rods distant, the jxHtit to wiiich we fii'st diroctcd 
 (_)ur stcjjs on I'cachin^i,' the hi,a,(i land aJ'lcf l(-a\"in,ii' the boat. 
 
 "I \\'as s('\"cral I'atlionis in advance (jf Kijo-ou-le-arng, 
 hast('nin,ii' on, hcinji' desirous to make as extended a searcli as 
 the brief i'eniainin,u' da\'li<ilit would all<jw, when, liftin,u' my 
 eyes from tlie ,u'i'ound near me, 1 dis('o^•er('d. a eonsid(>!'able 
 di>tance ahea<l, an obj(>('t (jf an lunisual appearance. Rut a 
 second look satisfied me that what T saw wei'e >ini])ly stones 
 scattered about and covered with black moss. ] contimu-d 
 ni}' course, keepin,u' as near the coast as ])ossil)le. I was now 
 nt^arinji; the s])ot where I had first descried the black ol)ject. 
 It a,iiain met my view : and my oi'i.uirial tliouyht on first 
 secin.ii it resumcnl at once the ascendency in my min(h I 
 hastened to the s])ot. '(d'eat Cod! Thou h.ast rewai'ded 
 me in my search I' v.'as the sentiment that came overwhelm- 
 in<ii\' into my thankful soul. On casting- my (\\'es all ar(jund, 
 seeip,,^ and feelin,fi' the character (n)oss-ag'e(l, for some of th.e 
 pieces I sa\\' had i)ellicles of blaciv nu.iss on them; of the relics 
 bef(jre an<l under me, I felt as - I camiot tell wliat my fc'cl- 
 ings were — what I saw befcjre me was sui-cnal of Frobisher's 
 exijedition of 1.178, left here near thi'ce centuries ajio ! '" 
 
 A more thor(rd.<;'h search in the \'iciuiiy undertalcen at a 
 later ])eriod resulted in the finding of {ii;it->i<jne : fragnu'iits 
 of tile, ,uia». jx^ttery, an exca\"ation v.'hich Hall called an 
 ab'andoned mine, the ruins of thi'ee st(.)ne !t(»u-es, one (^f A\'hich 
 was tweh'e feet in diameter, \vith }")alpable e^■i(lence of its 
 having been erected on a foimdation of -tone cemented tc- 
 gether with lime and sand : lai'ge ])iece- of iron lime-('at( n r.nd 
 weather-W(jrn. which '"tlie I'U.-t of tlu'ce c(^ntiU'ie> li;nl liiml}- 
 cement(-d t<_) the sand and .-tones in A\"hich it had lain." 
 
 It will ])v remeniber(Ml that of the one Inmdred men .-(^it 
 out from I'umiandi with Fi'obisliei- in ].")7S. the m:i,iorit\' Avei-e 
 n\iner< sent for the ex])i"e-> ])ur])():-e of diLi'iiimi' for tlie ricli 
 (ji'e of which l'"robishei' had carried s})ecimen- home on hi-^
 
 TIJE GREAT WHITE yoUTII 
 
 rctiii'n iVoiii his >c(;(jii(l \'.)yiv^v, ;ui(l which was suijj^o-cd to 1j(; 
 \'fiy \-;;hii;ii)lc. Th(' iiiiiici',- made '" pi'oofs," as thcx'aro calkMl, 
 ill \;;ri(.)U> i)art- of the ri'uii^ns (li-cox-crcd l)y him. S(jnic of 
 ihc-c "i)ro(M's'" arc (louhiilc.-< what. ('a])taiii Hall h^uiid, and, 
 in connection witli (^thcr circumstances. e\-ideiiced the exact 
 location of r"rohi>her"s "('ounte.r- of Warwick Mine."' Cap- 
 lain Ilall })re-ented mnny of the relics he br(r,mht liome to 
 the ])riti.-h ,fio\'ernm(-nl thi'(jn,u,h the liO}'al ( '.e(.)gra})hical 
 (Society of L(jndon. 
 
 I'pon hi- return t(j Xew Lcjudon 'September lo, lS(J2i. Hall 
 immediiately eiidea\'(ju]'ed. tliroii(j,!i lectui'cs and personal 
 ap])eal-, to equij) another exjjc'dition to the Arctic. The 
 uii,-('1tled st.ite (jf the nation, phm;z'''d into the ho]'r<jrs of a 
 <j.-r<'at civil Avar, ma'le \\\< (■iVorts ])ract icall\' futile ; undaimted 
 by tlie <!i<courau'in,i!; res!)OM<e, he iie\-erl licless sailed July 1, 
 \s\')\. ;iii(l ill Auu'U-t wa> lande(l, with hi-; meaLi,-re equ!])inent, 
 boat and pro\'i:-ions, on Depot I-land. IIU'l>on l)ay, tjl' X,, 
 do' \\\ Ado])tin,u- the ha:-it> and life of the Ivdvimo-, Hall 
 >pcnt fi\-e ye;u-< in ])Ui'suin'i,' lii- re>earche-. i'ecei\-iii!i; occa- 
 sionally -Ujii)lii--~ from wh;ilefs. 
 
 I'he fir.M year was >pei:1 in uit-ucce-sful efforts to sernire 
 IXkiliio aid. ddie winter of I'-d." iMili, Hall had his head- 
 (;!i;irter- ;;i I'Ort Hope, bepul-e Wvy. aiid in the sprim;' 
 readied Cnpe A\"eyioi!. f.s" X., S!b' \\ . The Hd^imo^ refused 
 to ;iccomp;iiiy him !';irt!;er. but he had the u'ood. fortuiu' to 
 nici't witli iia!i\'e> who had \'i-ited! the (le-ei'tcd -hi])-, ainl 
 h;:d -'■•■11 r"f;,nivrni. IbiH -eciired from thc-e hAhimos con- 
 -!de!';d'ie -ij\-cr bearititi' tlie cre-t ot' r'ranldin ;md otiiei' 
 olii'-'-r-. 
 
 ill !'>bru;:i'>-. I^»i7. Ilc'l \i-i!ed I Liloolik . t he wi 1 ! t er ; |Ua rt ei'< 
 iif !':■:'. -x^ ill A-'LA'. W !'iipro\-c( 1 i!>c next y(;ir I )\' fol'owiiiii; 
 
 U') d;'- ^\'e^' -id'' of Ahh/iHe i'cMin-liJ;i. compl.'i iijo; juvl -;ii!'- 
 
 \-eyi'i'j,' 1 h'' -':(,!■; u:.p b( : wcM! 1 hu'"- f;: ri h^-i . isKi. ;;iid ParryA 
 f-rd.i-; ill b>ir\- Strait. 1 n_'o. Ahi' winter oi' b^tis iMl!)
 
 CAPTALY HALL AND ESKIMOS 
 
 247 
 
 ('M'TAIX !iAT.T> AXIl l"-r;/M(
 
 2 is Tin-: Gin-: AT wiutk yoirrii 
 
 was sjx'iit at I'"ort Hojx', where h(> at last succcHHlecl in secur- 
 iiiii; I'^skimo aid foi' the final atleni])! to reach Iving William 
 Lan<l. lie started in March, IStJl), in conii)any with ten 
 Iv-kinios and do.a; sledges. 
 
 ('rossiiig liae Fenin>ula to ( 'onunittoe Bay and rid Boothia 
 Isthnnis, tl!e])art\' reached .Janu\s Ross Strait , distant soint^ 
 sixty miles t'roni King \\'iniam Land. Here he had difficnUy 
 in pei'snading the nati\'(\s to contimie, bnt at Simi^son Island 
 the snccess ol' a nnisk-ox hnnt restoi'cd their good humonr, 
 and t}ie\' consented to proccMMl. On tlu^ 12th of Alay, ISdO, 
 Ilal! reached the mainland ; his stay was necessarily \-eiy 
 l)i-ief, as his native com])anions conld not be jx-rsnaded to 
 lingei- in such a desolate countiy. 
 
 I 'poll his I'elurn to liepulse l^ay, ( 'ai)tain Kail, in a lett(a' to 
 ]\Ii'. Hem-y (iriimell, dated June 20, 1S()!), writes in part : — 
 
 "The result oi' my sledge join'ne\' to King William's Land 
 may he summed uj) tinis : None of Sir .hihn I'VankHn's com- 
 patiions e\'er reached oi' died on Alonti'cal Island. It was lat(i 
 in .lul\', IS IS, tli<at ( 'I'o/ier and his pai't\' of about forty or 
 forly-fi\'e passed down the W(>st coast of iving William's 
 Land in the \'icinity of ( '.ajx^ Ilei'^ciiel. The ])arty was drag- 
 ging two sledges on tlie sea-ice, which was nearly in its last 
 stage (tf di><olution : one a lai'ge sledu'e la<len with an awning- 
 C()\-cr(>d boat, atid t!ie other a small one laden with ])i'o\-isioiis 
 ani camp material, .lust befoi'e ('i-oziei' a!id party ari'i\'ed 
 at ( 'apf IIer<chel, th(\\' were met by four families of nati\('s, 
 .and both partie> went into camp neai' each othci'. Two 
 L.-kimo niiai, who wei'c of the natix'c ])ai't>', ga\'e me much 
 -ad. bill deeply iiit "!'e-t iiig. infoi'Uiat ion. Some o!' it stu'red 
 my li'Mrt with ^adne^s, intermingled with ra.ge, for it w;t-^ a 
 (■oiife--ion that t!ie\. with tlieir coinp.anious. did ,-ecretly .and 
 ha-tily .abandon ( 'I'ozier and his p.ai'ty to sul't'er and (he for 
 iieeil of iVe-h pro\i-;on-. when in truth it was in tlu' ])()wer 
 of the iiatixc-- to s.axc e\er\- man ah\c. I'he next trace of
 
 HALL S SECONJ) J 01' IIS EY 
 
 241) 
 
 ( "rozicr and his party is to be found in tlie skeleton •\vhich 
 Ar( 'lintoelv discovered a little below, to the southward and 
 eastward of C'ai)e Ilersehel. This was never found by the 
 natives. The next trace is a cam])ing ])lace on the sea-shore 
 of Kinj), William's Land, about three miles eastward of 
 J'feffer lvi\'ei', where two men died and i-eceived ("luistian f ?j 
 burial. At this place fish-l)ones were found ])y the natives, 
 which showed them that Crozier and his jiarty had cau<:lit 
 while tluM-e a species of fish excellent f(jr food, with wliich the 
 sea th.ere al)ounds. The nt'xt trace of this ]:»arty occurs about 
 five or six mil(\s eastward, on a lon<i- point of Kiuf^' William's 
 Land, where on(^ man died and was buried. Then about 
 south-southeast two and a half miles further, the next trace 
 occurs on Todd's Islet, where the remains of five men lie. 
 The next certain trace of this ])arty is on the west side of tlu; 
 isk^t, west of Point Richardson, on some low land that is an 
 island or joai't oi the nrainland, as the tide may be. Here 
 t!ie a\vnini':-covere(l boat and the remains of about thirty 
 or thirty-five of ("rozi(>r's party w(n'e found by the native 
 roo-}'et-ta, of whom Sir John lioss has <i:iven a dcv^cription 
 in the account of his voya<i"e in the ]'ictnrij in 1820 '34. Li 
 tlie spring of 1S40, a lar<2;e t(Mit was found by the natives whom 
 1 saw, the floor of which was completeh' co\-ered with the 
 r(iriains of white men. 
 
 "('lo>e by were two <2;rav(N. This tent was a little way 
 inland from the head of 4^'rroi' I'ay. In th(> >])rin,<2; of ISfil, 
 when the snow was iicarlx' all <i;one, an I']skimo ])arty. con- 
 ducted by a nati\'e well known thi'ou,<i'hout the northern re- 
 iiioiis. found two boats, witli maii\' >keIe1ons in and alxjut 
 ihcm. ( )iie of these boats hail been ])re\-i()usly i'oiuid by 
 ^rC'lintoek : the othei' was found lyinii; fi'om a ([Uai'ter to :i 
 half mile distant, and tnu<t have b<'en com])!etely entoml)ed 
 in .<now ;it the time ALC 'liutock's parties were ther(>. of th(\v 
 nio.-^t assuredb" would ha\'e seen it. In and about this boat.
 
 2.-)0 THE (rllEAT WIIJTK XOllTII 
 
 bosido tlic skeleton- alliuled to, were found many rc'lics. most 
 of them simi];ir in ctun'cietei' to tlio.-e MX'lintoek has enu- 
 merated as ha\'!n.u' In-cn found in tiie h{jat he (hseovf^red. I 
 tried hard to aecom])li-h far moi'e than I (Ud, ]»ut not on(- of 
 the compari}' would on any aceount whatev(-r consc-nt t(j 
 remain with me in that ('(^untry and mai^e a .-ummer search 
 o\'er that i-lan(h \\'hie]i, fj-om information I had ji'ained from 
 the nati\"es. I had i'('a-on to .-U])])o>e W(jiild !>(■ i'(-\s-ard(-d hv 
 the di>co\-ery of the A\'hole of the manu>eri])t records tliat 
 liad heen accumulale(l in that ,Cireat exjH'dilion, and had l)fen 
 (leposit(Ml in a \"auli. a little way inland oi' ea>!ward of ("ape 
 Mctory. Knowinu' a- I now (k) the character of the l-i.-ldnu^s 
 in that pai't of the cotmiiy in which Kinu' A\'illiam'> Land is 
 situatC'd, I caniKjt vronder at nor klame the {ii'|)ul<e J:)a.y 
 nati\-es foi- their I'efu.-al \o remain there a- I de.-ir.'di. It is 
 (juite ]")rol)al)le that, had we remained tlu^rc' a> I wi-h(M|. no 
 one of u.- wouM i\-(-r ha\"r j:ot out of the country alive. 
 How could we (■x])('Ct, if ^ve uot into straitened circumstance.-;, 
 that we wouhl r('Cei\'e kf'tter treatmc'nt from the ri-fdmo- (.)f 
 that cfjuntry than liie lOo .-oul> \\'ho were imder the com- 
 ]uan(l of the heroic Croziei- some time after latnlimi' on Kinu; 
 A\"illiam"s Land? CimH I and my ])arly wil'i rf-a-otiaMe 
 safety h;i\'e reiriainc'd to make a sunnner -earch on Kini;; 
 \\'illiam"- Laiid, il i- not only ])!'(il laliie that we .-liouM ha\"e 
 rec()\-ered the loo- and joui'nal- i)f Sir John Lranklin"- Ik\])e- 
 (litinn. hut ]ia\'e u'athered Up and (iilomhed the remain- of 
 nea!'l\- ini) of hi- compaliicn- : i^^V the-v' lie akiiut the plaee-; 
 \\-heiT i|ic threi' koat- ha\'e even keen found and at the larire 
 caiiciinu-plaee at l!ie head nf Teri'or I5ay and the tlire.- oilaT 
 ]ilaei- th;i; I !ia\'e ah'eadiy lii'^hl ioliei 1. \\\ ttie vnv^-. we-t 
 .-ide (if I'liiiit l;iehard-( 111, hoWc\"er, iialUl'e her-e|f ha- Oj)(ne(l 
 h'-r kii-iiiii and L:.i\eii -I'pul'iu'e Id the kiiiK- oi' ilic immoHal 
 h'a'Mc-; who (lli'il th(a'(\ \\'herr\-er the l-k!dmo- ha\'e found 
 the ura\e- (ji' I'Vaid^iin',- companion-, they hax'e dn'X ihem
 
 RELICS OF Slli JOHN FUAyh'LIX 251 
 
 open and robbed the dead. leaviii<^' tlunn exposed to the rav- 
 a,u,('s of wild l)east-. On Todd's Island, the rc^niains of iive 
 men were not buried : but, after the savat^es had rol^bed them 
 oi vYcvy article that could be tui'ned to account for their use, 
 their (l()(is were allowed to finish the dis<;iistin<i,' work. The 
 nati\'(^ who conducted my native party in its sc'arch over 
 Ivinp: A\'illiani"s Land is the same individual who gave J)r. Rae 
 the i\r>t inhjrmation about white men havinu' died to the 
 we>tward of where he (])r. Raej then was (Telly Bay) in tlic 
 sj)i'in<i- of 1S.")1. His name is In-nook-])oo-zh(~-jook, and he is 
 a native of Xeitchille, a very <ireat traveller and veiy intelli- 
 gent, lie is, in fact, a Vt"alking history of tlu^ fate of Sir 
 John franklin's j-L\])editi()n. This native 1 met wluMi within 
 one day's siedo(> joui'nc^A' of King ^Mlliam's Land — off Point 
 ])r}'(len ; and after sto])ping a few days among his people, 
 he accom])anie(l me to tlie ])laces I visited on and aljout 
 King A\'illia.m's Land. 
 
 "1 could })a^■e readily gathered ciuantities — a xvry great 
 \"ariety of relics of .">ir .John I'ranklin's expedition, ior the}' 
 are now ])o-sess(>(l by natives all over tlie Arctic l{egi(jns that 
 1 \'isited ()]■ lieard (jf — from Pon.d's I'ay to Mackenzie 1v!V(M'. 
 As it was, 1 had t(_; be satisfied with taking U])on our sledges 
 about 12.") ])ouuds total weight of relics fi'om natives about 
 King William's Land. Some of these I will enumerate : 
 1. A jioH ion (;f one side (se^-eral ])lanks and rilx fast togetluM') 
 of a boat, clinkei'-built and co])))ei'-fastene(l. This ])art of a 
 boat is of the one found n(^ar the boat found by AL( 'lintock's 
 ])arty. 2. A small oak sledge-i'UJin.ei'. reduced fi'oiu the 
 sledge on which the boat rested, -'k I'art of the ma-t of the 
 Xorthwc'st Pa<.-au'e shl]). 4. ( "hr()nom(-ter-box. Avit h its num- 
 ber, name of 1 1ll' maker, and the (>*ueen's broad ai'row engi'aved 
 U])on it. ."). Two lonu' h(a\\v sheets of co])[)er. three and four 
 inches AN'iile, with countersunk holes foi- screw-nails. ( )n 
 th<'.-(' >he(Ms, as well as on most evervthing else that ciune
 
 ■l.rl TllK CHEAT WIUTE ^OIITH 
 
 frointlu^ Xoiiliwcst J'assa,>io ship, arc nuniorous stamps of the 
 (Queen's broad arrow. (). ]\[aliojz;any W]'iting-(lesk, elabo- 
 rately iinisluMl and bound in brass. 7. AIan\- pieces of silver- 
 l)late, forks, and s])oons, bearin*;- crests and initial of the 
 owners. 8. Parts of watches. 9. Knives and very many 
 otlu^r thin<;s which you, Mr. CJrinnell, and others interested 
 in the fate of the Franklin Ex])edition, will take a sad interest 
 in ins])ectin<i; on their arrival in the Staters, ()\\v (nitire skele- 
 ton 1 have brou<;ht to the United Stat(>s." 
 
 Hall, sonu^ tim(> aft(>r his return, ])lac(Ml tlu^ carefully 
 ])r(>served remains in cliai'<2;e of ^Nlr. l^rc^voort, of Brooklyn, 
 who transf(n'r(Ml them to Admiral Tn<i;lefleld, Pi. X., to be 
 forwarded to Pn-2,'lan(l. Subscnjut^ntl}' (by the \)\\i\i of a tooth) 
 th(> skek^ton was identified as the remains of Lieutenant 
 \'econt(\ of the KrcJ)Us. 
 
 The same y(>ar that the Krcbu-^ and Terror were abandoncMl, 
 on(M)f them consunnnat(Ml the ('.r(>at Northwest Passa,u'e, ha\'- 
 ini!,- five m(>n abotird. The (n'idenc(> of the (>xact nmnber is 
 cii-cumstantial. l:]v(Mytliini!; about this Xort Invest Pass;i,o;(^ 
 shi]) was in c()m])lete order. It was found l)y the Ood-joo-lik 
 natives near ()'Pi(>illy Island, latitude (iS'' :]()' X., longitude 
 0!)^ W"., early in the s])rin^' of ISb), frozen in the midst of 
 a floe of only one wint(M''s formatiom 
 
 With the unwillina; consciousness that lie could accom- 
 ])li>li nothini;,' further of res(>arch in the Pi'ozen Regions, ('ap- 
 tain Hall had now to think of a return to the Pnited State< ; 
 ])in'p()-in,ii' tJKM'e to collate and ])ublish the result of his ])r()- 
 tracted Arctic exix'ricncc, then to make his loiiti,' meilitated 
 \-o\:mc to the Pole, and, if possible, aJ'tcrward re\'i>it King 
 \\ illiam's Land. 
 
 In n',u,;u'(l to his ])l;uis he writes: — 
 
 '■ I hope to stall next spi'luij,- with a vc^-scl for Jones" Sound, 
 and ilienc*' toward the Xortli I'oh* as far a< nax'iti'at ion \\"ill 
 pci'Miil. 'I'll!' f()ll(Avin,u >p|-in,u-, l)\' >l(>d,i!,c joui-ney, I will make
 
 HALL S BKTURX TO THE UMTKI) STATES 2.>] 
 
 for the ti,()al of my ambition, the North Pole. I do liopc t<j 
 he abl(^ to resume snow-hut and tcMit encam])ment very near 
 the Pole by the hitter })art of 1870, and much nearer, indeed 
 at the \-ery Pole, in the spring following, to wit, in bS71. 
 TluM'e is no us(^ in man's saying, it cannot l)e done — that the 
 Xortli Pole is beycjnd our reach. P>y judicious ])lans, and })y 
 ha\'ing a carefully selected company, I trust wilh a lieaven- 
 ]^i'f)tecting care to reach it in less time, and witli far less 
 mental anxieti(>s, than I hav(> ex}")erienced to get to King 
 William's Land. I have always held to the opinion tliat 
 whoever would lead the way there should first liave yc^ars of 
 experience among the wild natives of the Xorth : and this is 
 one of my reasons for sul)mitting to searching so long for the 
 l()<t ones of Franklin's Expedition." 
 
 The exi)ression of such ])ur])ose>, including that of a subs(^- 
 ({uent return 1() King AMlliam's Land, is certainly remarkable, 
 as coming from one whose sledge journc^vs only, during the 
 five years wliich now closed U])()n him, exceedcnl the aggregate 
 of f(jur thousand miles. A willingness ^'to resume snow-hut 
 and tent" Avould seem explicable only by su])])()sing that 
 next to the lofty ideas with which his mind enthusiastically 
 iu\'ested everything Arctic, was the extreme of a strange 
 fascination with the uncouth life he had been leading. H(^ 
 >ays himself, at ;ibout thi> same date, that tliere was nothing 
 in the way of food in which tlie nativ(\< delighted that he did 
 not d(>light in, and that this may a])peai- strange to some, 
 !iUT wa^ //•//(. He had that d.ay "a grand good feast on the 
 kind of meat lie had been longing for -the (\vvv kill(Ml last 
 fall : r()tt(^n, strong, and <tin.kinsj.', and for these (lUalilies. 
 excellent for Imnii'> and for llie \\Titer." 
 
 Hall, accomjiaiiied by his faithful I-]-kimo friends. .loe. 
 ILinnah, and her ado])te(l child Pun-na, returned to New 
 liedford. Ma<>aeliu-et1<. ."^e])1ember 2(;. lS(i!). When off the 
 liubthouse of Xa.ntucket. ALissachu>et t<. Hannah and her
 
 :2o4 
 
 TIIK (iUEAT WIIITK y OUT II 
 
 child (lro]i]MMl tlioir native dresses and put on those of a 
 (■i\'ilize([ hind. 
 
 linniedi;aely upon his j'eturn to the States, ('a])tain Hall 
 endea\'oured to ar()U>e ])ul)lic interest in hi> lon,<i-cherish('d 
 ])lan for an ex])edition Xo the Pole. By untirinii ])ers()nal 
 efforts and the su])])ort of enthusiastic friend.-, he -ucceedeil 
 in en.ti'atiin.L!; the attention of ( '(jn^i!;re>s, which authorizeil '•An 
 ]-l\])editi()n to the Xorth Polcj the only one in the hi-tory (jf 
 the nation."" Fift\' tliou<and d(dlars was a])])ropriated for 
 ex])enses arid a vf'>>el sclectedi fn_)ni the nav}'. \\'liich was thor- 
 ou,Li:hly fitte(l out at an ex])en>e of ninety thousand niort'. 
 
 '■Xe\'erwa- an Arctic ex])e(lition more c(;iji])lct('ly fitted 
 out,'" \vi-(jte Ihdl. at ( iodhax'eii. in a letter home Au^mist 22. 
 
 The Pi'Inris. in command (d' Captain Ilalh ^\■ith S. (). 
 Rud<linii;t(jn as -^ailinu-ma-tcr. Dr. I'mil Pm's-c1- in char_ii'e of 
 tlie .-ci<'ntific work, and twenty-four others, .-ailed from X(-w 
 London. ( 'onnecticut. July .']. I'^Tl. At l^i-o\"en. Han,-, the 
 do^' drivel', who had .-er\'e(l with Kane and Hayi-. acconi- 
 l")anied hy hi< wife and lhr(-e children, wa- takf-n alxjard. 
 
 The Fnlnris encountcrefl a u'l'eat deal of ice at tli*' en- 
 trancf' of W'ol^tcnholme Soundi, so that the ])a-sa,u'(' thi'ou<i'h 
 it Wa.- eff('Ctc(l with nnich difficulty. Steannnu' throuu'h the 
 lead-, she \\'a- comix'lled to stop for the fir>t time off the 
 wc.-tern >hoi'c of IIaklu\'t I-land nn Auuu>t 27. 
 
 1)\- .\uuu-t 20. -he -tood in latitude ,s2' 11' X.. lia\-ino; 
 >ucc(-.~^fully na\'Ii!.'ated Kane Pja-in. Kenneily rhaiUK-l, Hall 
 I Sa-in. and l!ol ie,-i in ( 'harm el, and into the Pc'la!' ."^ea. I nahle 
 to ri'Uain hei' pM-itlun 1 )y the foi'ce oi' the current, -lie I'ciui'ned 
 -muhwai'd and went into winter fjUai'ter- in Sp .'J^' north 
 l:ttilnde at Thank ( lod llaiPor, ( '.reenlaiid. 
 
 < ';ipt:iiiL Hail w;;- \"ei'y di'-irou- df inakimi' ;i -icdu',. journey 
 kefdre tiie Winter ~cl in. tPr t}],- pUI'po-e of I'l 'Con Uoi 1 T! 11^ 
 
 .•ind -'pi-tinu the ki'-i iMuic lor !ii- uim-o journe>' in the .-])rin,u' 
 
 lov>ard the Pole.
 
 Fr\i;TiAi. (jF ('ai'taix II:
 
 DEATH OF HALL Zoo 
 
 By the 2Sth of S('i)te]ii}j(n', tho final preparations for this 
 journey w(M'e eonq^lete. The dogs were selected and carefully 
 fed. The Eskimos had i)ut the sledge in order, and those 
 selected to acconi])any Captain Hall were busy making their 
 l)ersunal prc^parations. Xot until tlie 10th of October was 
 the start hnalh' made, Hall being accompanied by Air. 
 Chester and the Eskimos, Joe and flans. 
 
 On the 24th of Octolx'r, the sl(Mlge party returned, having 
 reached as far north as Cape Brevoort, 82° X. They had all 
 been well, during their two weeks' absence, with the exception 
 of Ca])tain Hall, wluj had complain(>d that he did not feel his 
 wonted vigour and endurance ; and for the last three days had 
 not h>lt at all well. 
 
 He had fre(|ucntly ex])resse(l his sur])rise during the journey 
 tliat he was not able to run befor(> the sleds and encourage the 
 dogs, as on fornaa- ex])editions, but had been com]ielled to 
 keej) (HI the sled. Captain Hall had not been aljoard half 
 lui hour l)(>fore he was taken violently ill, and by 8 p.m. 
 his entire left side was ])araly2(Ml as the result of an a]w- 
 ])l(H'tic attack. By the evening of the 2.")th, he ^\■as delirious ; 
 on Xovemb(a' 7, he sank into a comatose^ state, ])reathing 
 lle;!^'ily : he j'emained in this condition luitil 3 : 25 a.:m, of 
 the Slh. when he died. 
 
 The sad n('Ws was l)roken to tlie slii])'s company, and none 
 h'lt his loss ]ii()r(^ than the l^>kimos, Joe and H;mnah, who had 
 been liis constant com])anions f(jr nearl}' ten years. These 
 faithful fi'lends liad looked U})on him as a father, and were 
 now h(\u't-l)roken. 
 
 On Xovember 11, Ca])tain Ge()rge Tyson, assistant navi- 
 gator of the exj)ed.ition, wr()t(> in his diary: — 
 
 ■'As we went to the gi'ave tliis morning, tlie cofhn liauled 
 on a >ledge, o\'er which was s])i-e;id. insl(>ad of a pall, the Anua'- 
 icaii flag, we walked in ]H'oce<>ion. I walked on with my 
 lantern a litth.^ in advance ; then came the captain and
 
 :l'){j THE CHEAT WHITE yOUTIl 
 
 officers, the en,^ineer, Dr. Bessel, and ^vleyers ; and then the 
 crew, hauhn<i,' the bod}' by a ro]je attached to the .sledge, 
 one of the men on the right holding another lantern. Nearly 
 all are dressed in skins, and, were there other eyes to see us, 
 v.'e .-hould l(j()k like an\-thing ])ut a funeral cortege. Tin.- 
 Eskinio> foll(AV(Hl the crew. There is a weird sort of light 
 in the air. ]xu'tly boreal or electric, through wliich the stars 
 shone Ijrightly at 11 a.m., while on our \x\xy to the grave. 
 
 "Thus end poor Hall's ambitious projects; thus is >tilled 
 the effervescing enthusiasm of as ardent a nature as I ever 
 knew. Wise he might not always have been, but his soul 
 was in this work, and had he lived till sj)ring. I think he wcjuld 
 liave gone as far as mortal man could go to accompli.-li his 
 mission. But with his death I fear that all ho])es of further 
 progress will have to be abandt^ned."" 
 
 The death of Captain Hall i)roved to be fatal t(j the main 
 object of the expedition — the attaimnent of the Pole : if 
 possil)le — or the ab-(.)lute proof of its inacccs.-ibility. The 
 connnand of the expedition now devolved ujxju Captain 
 Buddington. 
 
 ."Several unsuccessful Ijoat journeys t(.) the north were f(.)l- 
 lowcd by a sledge journey under Dr. P)e»el-. to Peterjuanu 
 I'iord. Another bcjat jouniey b}- Mr. ( 'lie>ter reached Xcw- 
 mau l>a\'. bui it was left t(j ."^ergeant F. Meyei-, ."Signal Corjjs, 
 r. S. Army, to reach on foot the most northei'ly lan<l at that 
 timi- i-xi'V reached l)y civilized man. near lve])ul-e Harbor, 
 ST [)[)' X. 
 
 On the lllli of August, 1S72, the ice of the strait< wa- ol)- 
 serx'cd to bo in motion, drifting to the s()Uth. ^\ illi the hojio 
 of rolca.-imi' the >hi]> and !-ei uruintj; home. Cai)tain Ijuddiiiu- 
 ton. aflcr an (•xamination of the ice, decided it would be -afe 
 to force the \-e--e! throuuh. At C MO P.M. the eniiine- were 
 started, and the I'nlnris left Tliaiik ( '.od Hai'bor : witli ,ureat 
 cai'e till \'e~-el wa- ])i!i)!ed between the heavy floe-, chaiming
 
 "POLARIS'' ADRIFT AMOXC THE ICEBERGS 257 
 
 lu'f course frtHiucntly, hut always gaining ground. l)y \\\c 
 iStii, she stood 79^ 44' 80" X. 
 
 On the 27th, every i)r(^i)aration was made for a i)ossible 
 abandon ment of the vessel. A house was built on the floe, 
 as a retreat in case the shij) should be destroyed. For 
 neai'l\' two months the Polaris drifted southward at th(> nicu'cy 
 of the ice-pack, and was ni})ped near Little Island by October 
 13. 
 
 •'At o A.M. of the loth (Octol)er)," writes Admiral Davis 
 in his '■ Narrative of the North Polar Expedition," "a very 
 heavy snow began to fall, and continued until 8 a.m., wlien 
 the wind blew so hard that it was impossible to distingui>h 
 b(>tw(HMi the falling and drifting snow. The gale increased all 
 day, (hiving the vessel with its surrounding ice with great 
 ra])idity. It commenccHl to l)low from the S. E., but shifted 
 to the S., and finally to th(^ S. W. Duriiig its prevalence^ the 
 air was so com])letely filled with th(^ flying snow that one 
 could not see more than 20 or oO feet. The ship had r(>mained 
 fast to the fioc^ so long, and drifted with it so far, that no par- 
 ticular anxiety was felt as to tlu^ rc^sult. 
 
 "d'he cai)tain. had, however', always said that if the vess(4 
 ]ias-ed through Smith Strait, he would not fcM-l easy until 
 the ice in whicli sh(> lay, had join^'d the regular Baffin's 13ay 
 ])ack. 
 
 "The 'noi'tli-water,' as it is called ])y whalemen, is always 
 found in th(^ northern ])art of Baffin Bay, and lie kn^ew that, 
 wei'c t!ii- safely cross(Ml. \\\v ship would ilotit (juieily dcnvn 
 with the i^ick all winter, and be released in th(^ spring far to 
 t!u' south. 
 
 "4'he dii'CH'tion in \\iiich tlie vess(>l was movii\g was a matter 
 of sixcuhition : tlie fact of Ikm- moving wris admitted. Tlit^ 
 daily AVork l)eing don(\ after dinner th(> men settled tliem^eh'es 
 down ;i< u-ual for the enjoyments of the evening. At <> p.m., 
 it wa- i-eported that the starboard sid(> of the vessel was ivvo
 
 ■2'^S THE <;LIEAT WIIITK NORrif 
 
 tVoin ice. The captain, tunicilout the crew, aiul .■^ccurod the 
 ^liip l)\' an additional hawser t(j the ihje. Tliis extra hawser 
 was (A'cr the >tern and Icil from a lav^v iee-auehor. sunk in 
 the hoc to the niain-niast. Two haws'-rs had ser\'ed (hirin<2; 
 the whole ol' the drift to hold the Polcris to the Hoc, one o\'er 
 the hows and one o\'er the stern. Final pi'cparations were 
 made to ahandon the vessel, nearly e\"erythin,ii had been <iot 
 read\' on deck ; the seamen still had theii' chjthes and personal 
 effects to look after. 
 
 "The Pnlaris \va> drixcn alon^i,' at a \"ery i'a))id I'ate. Alrmy 
 easier face- lookcil o\-ei' the I'ail and ])eere(l int(j the darkness 
 and the liloom. wonderinu,' what \\'oulil ha]»])en next. The 
 sk'y was threat erhn^ii'. 'hhe moon st I'uuuled in vain to break 
 thronii'h the (■lou<l-. Two iceberus were ])asse(l in close 
 ])r(_)ximity. Some jiid,mnent could be formeil by means of 
 them as to the ra])idil\' with wiiich the \-e>s(-l wa> nio\inu'. 
 One c()uld scarcely help shuddei'in,u as he thought of the v{_>n- 
 se(juences of rumnn,Li' into one of those ^ii'iiiantic ice-mounta.his. 
 ( )n(^ or two ])ersons thought the land was vi>ible, btit it was 
 ver\- uncertain. 
 
 " \\ ~ :'.]() tlie ve--el I'an amonu' some iceher.us, which 
 lirou.uht up the floe to which >he was attached : at the -;ame 
 tiiue. the paci\ clo^eij up, jamiuin.ii' hef hea\'il>' : it was then 
 the ves-el secured hei' severe>f nip. It is hard to desci'ib(> 
 tiic eh'ect of that pi'e--ure. Sh<' .-hook and ti'embled. She 
 \\'a- rai-c'l up Ixxlily and ihi'own o\-ei- (in hei' ])ort -ide. Her 
 timbeiv- cfaeked with loud re])ort. e-perially about llie -tern, 
 ^fhe -iile^ -ecMied to be breaking iu. I'lie cleat to which one 
 of ilie afle liaw-C'iv wa.- attached -napped off. and the liaw>er 
 w;i< .-ecured to the ma-!. < hie of llie fii'eiiKti, liui'i'yinii' on 
 deck, I'ejiorted that ;i piece of ire had been driven thi'oiiuh the 
 
 -wle-. l\-i'ape from ile-1 ruet ion -ecmed to be in!])0--iblc. 
 Till' pt'e^^uri' ;m(l the iioi-e incrcM-ed tou'elhei'. The \-iolence 
 of thi' niLihl, and the lirindinii' of the ice, added to I he hol'for
 
 THE WIUJCK OF THE "POLARIS'' 2o9 
 
 of th(^ situation. Fcclinji,' it was extremely douljtful whether 
 tile ship would stand, ( 'aptain Jkiddiii^tou ordered ])rovisions 
 and st(_)re.> to be thrown ui)on the ie(>. Then followed a busy 
 scene. Each one was deeply impressed with the exio-ency 
 of the moment, an.d exerted himself to the utmost. I^oxes, 
 bai'rels, eau-s, etc., were thrown ov(n- the side with (extraor- 
 dinary rapidity. 2^Ien ])ei'formed <iigantic feats of strength, 
 tos-ing with aivparc^nt ease, in the excitcnu^nt of the moment, 
 boxes wh.ich at otli(>r times tliey would not have essayed to 
 lift. Foi'ward, coal and more substantial ])i'o\-isions and 
 bags of clothing were thrown overboard ; abaft, the lighter 
 boxes of canned meats and tobacco, with all the musk-ox 
 skins au-d fresh seal-meat, were transported to and fro. The 
 cabin was emirely emi)tied, beds and bedding, clothes and 
 even ornaments, were carried out. Messrs. Bryan and Meyer 
 ])lace(l u])on the fioe the Ixjxes containing all their note-books, 
 ol)s(M'vations, etc. This was done delibei-ately and aft(M' 
 nnitual consultation. The Iwjxes were too lai'ge to be carried 
 about, and, in the actual condition (jf things, the fioe ajipeared 
 to be decidedly tlie ])est ])lace. 
 
 "The Eskimo w(jmen and children took refuge on the 
 ice, and two boats were lowered and with a scow placed on 
 the floe. 
 
 '"Tlie i^rc'^sure hi]n now ])ec(^mes(.) great tliat the great Hoc 
 it-elf had cracked in <eve)-al ])laces. and the \'essel was grad- 
 ually' bn-aking its edge and beai'ing down tlie ])ieces. [Many 
 articles had been thrown in a lica]) near the slii]), and it was 
 luinid tiiat >or,ie of tlie lowei' tliiiiu'.- in the i)ilc were dro]")ping 
 tiirougli bf-iwecn the ve--el and the ice. It was aho s(>en that 
 sjiould the .-hi]) be cut tliJ'ough and -ink, many, if not all tlie.-e 
 article^, would sink with her. A call wiis tlu^rcfore made for 
 tl;e>e men to carr\' the-C' iU'tides to a -afer place on tli{^ floe. 
 Tliere w;i- no >;»'ci;il di'-luiiation for lliat duty ; but ('aptain 
 Tyson, taking .-e\-eral ])erson- witli him, at once enl(a'<'d on it.
 
 2t'>0 THE CHEAT WHITE yoUTH 
 
 After lal)()riii<r about one hour and a lialf, the decks were 
 cleared and the men on hoard shi]) liad finished their work. 
 At !» : oi) P.M., ])}" .-onic clian,ii'c in the ice, tlic >tai'hoard side 
 was a.u'ain clear ; the \'essel was free from pres.-ure, and the 
 cracks in the floc' hn'ii-an to open. 
 
 " rnfortunately, two of tliese cracks ran throuu'h the places 
 where the >tern anchors had Ijeen planted, lireakiiiji their 
 hold. The wind, still strong, now drove the A"e.-sel from the 
 floe, and, the anchors dra.uiiing inid(-r the strain, >he s\\'ung 
 r(^unil to the forward hawser. The latter sli})i)ed. and the 
 ve--~el was carried ra])idl\' a.way from the ice. The niuht was 
 black and stormy, and in a few mon:ients tlie floe and its pi-e- 
 cious freight could no hjnger l)e s(H'n througli the drifting snow. 
 Pjefore the se]:)arati()n. it had keen noticed that the flof^ \\'as 
 nnich l)rokeiL on its edge ; tliat the ])ro\'i<ions and >tores wi-re 
 .-epar:!led fi'om each othc'r by rar>i<lly ^\'idening cracks : that 
 the men al>o were on diflVrent ]")iece> of ice : that active 
 efforts \\-e]-e being nuule to laimch bcxits in ordf^r to bring the 
 scattereil ])e()ple together. Several men were seen rushing 
 toward the ~lii}) as she wa< leaving, but thc^y failed to reach 
 her. I'he \-()ice of the steward. .John Ilerron. wa- heard call- 
 inu' (.)Ut. ■ ( '.()(_ul-by. Pnlaris !' 
 
 " Xineieen ])er>()ns were thus separated from the >hip. in- 
 cluding eiiiht ]-i>kimos and the baby of Hans and Hannah 
 "-foui'teeu men remained onboard — ' This r('nmaii1 of a 
 ci'ew, -o ,-uddeiily reilnced, gazed on each other for a few mo- 
 iueiit- ill -ileiice— wIk'W 'he order wa- ti'h'en to >tation the 
 lo(.k(»uI- : the ilutie- of the .-Jiij) were I'e-umeil." 
 
 "A few moment- after t he .-e])ai'at ion. a fireman \\iio was 
 be!()W nctiinii- U]) >team repoi'ted that the ve— ej AVa- leaking 
 b;ell\'. [ pon evaniiiiation it wa- found that the water was 
 poni'lii^- in -M ra])idly iliat il wa< feared thai the iiiv.- would 
 
 bi' ;il'.! oUl befoi'e >le;im C()illd be rai-e:! 1o Wol'lv l!!i> ])Um]i,-. 
 
 " All li.ind- were immeiliateh' orilei'ed to the laru'e iler-k
 
 THE SKPAHAriON OF TILE CREW 261 
 
 puin])s, uiid a f(>\v ]);uls of hot wator started the four ])Uiii]).s. 
 The ca])taiii called out, 'Work for your lives, boys,' and the 
 crcnv set to \voi'k with a will. In .s]:)ite of their utmost el'forts, 
 the leak still <i,aine(l upon tlu^ni. The en,u;ineers and firemen 
 were ur^ed to tlieir utmost. Everythinji; of a combustible 
 charat't(>r, includin^u; seal blul)ber, was thrown u})on tlu^ fire, 
 and at the (>nd of an hour and ten minutes of the severest 
 labor, the steam pumps were at last in working order. Xor was 
 this a moment too soon, for at the moment the pumps began 
 to work, the water Avas lapping over the floor of the fire-room.'' 
 
 ('ai)tain Buddington awaited a favoura1)le o]:ip()rtunity to 
 Ix^ach X\\Q Pohtrls, and this was ac('om]:)lished a few da}'s later 
 near Life-l^oat Cove, wh(>re a comfortable house was built 
 of the vessel for the winter. 
 
 Some Eskimos rcmdered them considerable assistance, and 
 received suital)lc gifts in return. 
 
 ''W(> have taken stock of our ammunition," writ(^s Cap- 
 tain Buddington in his journal, "and find that we can avail 
 ourselves of about eight jiounds of ])ow(ler, which some of the 
 men had stored away in their cliests and ])owder-flasks. 
 This is all we have on board, the powder-c;m having Ijeen also 
 put off on the ice <luring the fearful night of tlu^ loth ; also all 
 our Sharj)'s cartridges, except some o])en (loose) ones which 
 were found amongst the men's tilings. One ])ox of musket- 
 cartridgc^s we have, and plenty of shot and lead ; also se\-eral 
 shot guns. In fact, we are not altogether as bad off as we fii-st 
 su])i)()sed. and the only thing that we are short of is clothing. 
 This, if we cannot get any gamf\ we may feel considei'ably 
 before spring comes on." 
 
 Th(> Eskimos from Etah ]nad(> frequent visits, l)ut could give 
 them !U) infornuition of the lost members of the ])ai't>'. The 
 general oi)inioii with Ca])tain l-)uddington and his men w;is 
 that Tyson had been abl(> to (>ifect a huiding with \\\< num, 
 somewhere to the south, and that he would ])robably use his
 
 2*i2 THE (I HEAT WHITE MORTU 
 
 (logs, .sleds, and boats to travel up the coast and rejoin the 
 main party. 
 
 In tii(> si)i"ing of 1873 two boats were carefully constructed 
 from the material of the Polar i.s, and tiu^ })arty made prepara- 
 tions to r(^ach rpernavik. On June 3, the boats, having 
 b(H^n freightcnl and manned, got unika- way, and aftc>r an excit- 
 ing journcn'^ of two hundrcMl miles were; })icked up near Ca])e 
 York by the Scotcli whaler liareii.scraiy. 
 
 One of the boats us(m1 on this retreat was brought back to 
 civilization and i)resented to the Smitlisonian Institution at 
 Washington. It was exhibited at the International I^xhi- 
 bition, L'hila(l(4})}iia, Alay 10, 187G, by the side of Kan(>'s boat 
 Fdi.th, and foi'med part of the Arctic (\)!l(H'tion furnisluHl for 
 the ('(MitcMuiial ])y the I'uited Statics Naval Observatoiy. 
 
 To retui'ii to the iiinc^teen souls adrift on the ic(^-floe ; of 
 the moment of ])arting from the Polaris, ('■dpiain Tyson 
 writes : — 
 
 "The ic(^ exploded and broke in many ])laces, and tlu^ shi]) 
 broke; away in tlu^ darkness, and we lost sight of her in a 
 
 moment. 
 
 "(ione! 
 
 But an Icf^-bound horror 
 Se(>med to cling to air. 
 
 ''It was snowing at the tim(> also ; it was a tei-ribl(> night. 
 On the tr)th of October it ma\' be said that the Arctic night 
 commences; ])ul in addition to tliis the wind wns blowing 
 strong fi'om 1h.'^ s()u(h-e;i>t : it was snowing and di'ifting, and 
 was fcarfiillv dark : and tlie wind was (>xce(Mlingly luniv}'. 
 and so b;id \\':is I lie snow nnd sleet thnt one could not e\-('n look 
 to till* windwnrd. W'e did not ]<now who wns on the ice or 
 who WIS on lli(> shi)) : but I knew som(> of the children were 
 on. the ice, becnuse almost the last thing ) had jiulled away 
 from the crushing heel of th(> ship wt^rc <(m\o musk-ox sicins : 
 the}' were King across a wide crack in the ice, and as I pulled
 
 THE IIAIIDSIIIP OF THE CHEW 263 
 
 thorn toward me to save them, I saw that there were two or 
 three of Hans' chil(h-eii roUed up in one of the skins ; a shght 
 mention of the iee, and in a moment more they would either 
 have })een in the water and drowned in the darkness, or 
 crushed between th(? iee. 
 
 "It was nearly ten o'clock when the shi]) l)roke away, and 
 we had becm at work since six ; the time seemcHl long, for 
 we were ^\•()rking all the time. Hannah was working, but I 
 did not s(>e Joe or Hans. We worked till we could scarcely 
 stand. Tlun' were throwing things constantly over to us 
 till the vessel ])art(Hl. 
 
 ■'"Scjme of the men W(^re on small pieces of ice. I took the 
 'little donkey' — a small scow — and went for tliem ; but 
 the scow was ahnost instantly swamped ; then I slujved off 
 one of the whale-boats, and to(jk off what men I. could see, 
 and some of the men took the other boat and helped their 
 comixmions, so that we \ver(> all on firm ice at last. 
 
 '■\\'e did not dare to move about much after that, for wc 
 c(juld not see th(^ size of the ice we were on, on account of th(> 
 stoi'm and darkness. All the rest but myself, the men, women 
 and children, s(jught what slieltcr they could fi'om the storm 
 by \vra])})ing theniM'h'cs in the mu>k-(j.\ sl^ins, and so laid down 
 to rest. I alone walked the floe all night." 
 
 Tlie following morning an invent (jry was taken of the 
 stores on th'' floe, and th(>>' were found to be : foui'teen cans of 
 ])('nnnican, eleven and a half bag-^ of i)read, one can of (lrie(l 
 a])] )!('-, and fcjurtccn hams. " If the shi]Mlid not come for us," 
 writ(>s Tyson, "wc might liave to ,-uj)poi't oui'selves all winter, 
 or die of si ;u"\'ation. Fortunately, wc had the boats." 
 
 ('a])tain T\'s(.>n made an effoi't to reach l.ittli^ Island, in 
 order to s(>cur(' the assistance of tlu' f>]<imos living in the 
 nciu-hbourliood in ]:)ro(an'ing food aufl -belter for his ])arty 
 duj'iiiu' the winter. This he was un;i.ble to accom])li<h. and 
 SDoii aftei' the Pohiri.-i was seen rounding a i)(.)int. Signals
 
 2G4 THE GREAT WHITE SOUTH 
 
 were mack' by lioistin<>; tho colours and shoAviiig an India-rul)l)(T 
 clolh, but ncitluT the signals nor the men were seen by the 
 /•'e/a/'/.v. 
 
 Another futile attempt was made to attract the attention 
 of those on the ship, and Ca|)tain Tyson endeavoured to launch 
 the boats and reach her, Ijut without success. Gales now 
 forced the floe out of sight of the ship, and the forlorn men set 
 to work to make the best of a desperate situation. 
 
 By lat(> Xovember, the effects of ex])osure and want of 
 food began to show themselves ; some of the men trembled 
 when they tried to walk ; the children often cricnl with hunger, 
 although all was given to them that could i)Ossibly be s})ared. 
 The seals brought in were received with gratitude ; the in- 
 valuable succ(^ss of Joe and Hans was fully ai^preciated ; 
 without them, the chances of life would have \)vvi\ very much 
 diminished. So keen had the ap])etites of the party ])ec()me 
 that the seal-meat was eaten uncookcnl with the skin and 
 hair on. 
 
 December 2.'), Captain Tyson records: — 
 
 "Our Christmas dinnc^r was gorgeous. W(^ had each a 
 small ])i(H'e of froz(-n ham, tw(j whole biscuits of hard bread, 
 a few mouthfuls of dricnl a])])les, and also a few swallows of 
 seal's blood ! The last of tlie ham, the last of the ai)]jles, 
 and tlie last of our present su])])l\' of seal's blood ! So ends 
 our ( 'hi'istmas f(>ast ! '' 
 
 ''Xew A'ear's diimer. I have dined to-day on about two 
 feet of //Vfir// itdrailx and a little blublx'r ; and I only wish 
 ^\'e had p!cnt_\' e\-en of that, but we lia\"e not." 
 
 On .laiiuar\' 2.'), bST^i, Captain Tyson makes the following 
 ob<(>r\'ation : - 
 
 "I ^\•as thinking tlic other evening how st I'ange it would 
 sound to heal' a goo<l lieaftx' laugh ; but 1 think there iie\-er was 
 a party -o (lest it ut e of e\'ery eleinent of ineri'iinenl a>tliis. I 
 cannot remember ever ha\'in!i' seen a smile on the countenanci>
 
 THE JfAnDSllII' OF THE CREW 26.") 
 
 of any on(> on this floe, except when Ilerron came out of his 
 hut and saw the sun shining for the first time." 
 
 Tlie niontlis of February and Alarcli passed (Usnially enough, 
 witli varying fortune with the hunters. Toward the end of 
 i\ larch, th(> conchtion of the party was growing rapidly woi's(;. 
 On Alarcli 3, Joe shot a monster oogjook — a large kind of 
 seal. 
 
 It was, indeed, a great deliverance to those who had 
 been rcnluced to one meal of a few ounces a day. 
 
 ''Hannah had but two small pieces of blubl)er k^ft," con- 
 tinues Captain Tyson, ''enough for the lamp for two days; 
 the men had but little, and Hans had only enough for one day 
 — and now, just on the verge of absolute destitution, comes 
 along this monstrous oogjook, the only one of the seal species 
 seini to-day ; and the fellow, I have no doul^t, weighs six or 
 s(^ven himdred poimds, and will fm'nish, I should think, thirty 
 gallons of oil. Truly we are rich indeed !" 
 
 "April 1st. We have been the 'fools of fortune' now for 
 five months and a half." 
 
 On this da}' it was found necessary to abandon the floe, 
 which had now become wasted to such an extent that it was 
 no long(^r safe ; at 8 a.m., therefore, th(> ])arty took to 
 their boat. This boat, intended to carry six or eight men, was 
 crowded with twelve men, two women, and five children, with 
 t!io lent and skins and som(> jjrovisions. Ther(> Avas so littl(~ 
 I'oom that it was difficult to handle^ the oars and j'okc-ropes. 
 After making fifteen or twenty miles to the south and west in 
 th(> ])a('k, a landing was cffc^ctcHl, th(> tent i)itch(Ml with the in- 
 tention of remaining all night. For tlu^ luwt twentjMnght 
 days !he party advanced to the sotitli by boat, cam])ing U]ion 
 the ice at night, undiM'going tlie most pei'ilous hardships from 
 the uphea^■als of the ice, throtigh gales and stoi'ms. 
 
 At I :;•!() I'.M. of A])ril 28, a steamer hove in sight, right 
 ahead, and at one time appeared to be bearing down upon the
 
 liC)!') THE GREAT WHITE XORTU 
 
 l.)oat. The American colours were hoisted, and the boat pulled 
 for her. Sh(> was recognized as a sealer returning southwest, 
 and a])))ai'ently working through th(> ice. For a few moments 
 the lu^arts of the shi|)Wi'(M'ked ])arty wove thrilled with joy, 
 but th(> steamer failed to see tliem, and night coming on, she 
 soon disa])|)eared. That night the boat was again hauled 
 upon the ice and fires lighted to attract the att(^ntion of passing 
 vessels. 
 
 At daylight, a st(>amer was s(H'n (-iglit miles off. The 
 boat was launched and headcnl for the ship, — but after fwo 
 hours' pulling, she was so beset by ice that she could make; 
 no headway. Tlu^ ])arty landed on a small ])iece of ice, 
 hoistinl their colours, mounte(l t he higlu^st ])oint of the floe, col- 
 lect ed all the rifles and ])istols, and hred tluMU together to at- 
 tract att(Mition. After threc^ I'ounds, the steamer fir(>d thre(^ 
 shots, and, changing her course, ht^adc^l toward the fi()(>. 
 'Jdie i)art\' ga\'e a shout of delight, but sooii after the steanuT 
 again changed her coui's(\ and st(>amed away. 
 
 "Again in the morning of the oOth, when the fog 0])(Mied, 
 a steamer was s(H'n close to the floe ; the guns were iii'ed, the 
 coloi's w(M'e set on the boat's mast, and loud shouts ^ycn^ 
 uttered. Hans sh()\'ed off in his ka}'ak, of his own accord, 
 to intei'cept her, if ])()ssible : the morning was h)ggy, but lh(> 
 steamer's head soon (unied towards tluMU and in a U'W 
 monients, she was alongside of the floe." 
 
 Th(> llii'i'c cheers gi\-en by the shipwi'ccked peoph^ were 
 i'eturn(Ml by a hundred ukmi on d(M'k and aloft, 'i'he \-essel 
 pro\'e(l !() he the barkentine 7'/V/r^^■.^■. sealer, ('ai)tain 
 liai'tlett, of ( '()nce|)t ion l)a\', Newfoundland. Iler small seal 
 boats wei'e ycry soon in the water: but the shipwrecked 
 pai'ty did not wait h>r them. Tliey t hi'ew e\-<M'yt hing out of 
 their own boat, lamiched her, and in a few moments were on 
 l)(i;ird the Tinr'ss, whci'e they became objects of extreiue 
 eui'i(»,-lt \\ as well ;is of t he iiio^l de\-oted at tent ion. \\ hen t he
 
 THE llKsCfE AM) IIKTIRN TO UNITED STATES 2()7 
 
 tinu^ (luring whicli th(\y liad h(>{ni on th(> ice \v;is nuMitioncMl, 
 tli('\' wen' r(\<;';u'(l(Ml with ;i.st(jnisluii(nit, and warmly congratu- 
 latcil upon tJKMi' niiraculous cs('a])e. They wen^ picked up 
 in latitude ■').\° o.V X., off Grady Harbor, Labrador. 
 
 Thus ended one of the most remarkable esea])es on r(>cord. 
 For fiv(> months the little band of shipwreckcMl men and women 
 had di'ifted at the mercy of the Arctic ice-pack, a distance of 
 1300 inil(>s.
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Captain Tliomas Lon<i. — Discovery of Wrangell Land. — Captain 
 Carlson and Captain Paliiscf sail across the ►"^ca of Kara. — 
 Captain Johannsen circunniavigates Xova Zenibla. — First Ger- 
 man expedition. — Second German expedition. — (icnnania. Cap- 
 tain Koldewey connnanding. — Hdusa, Captain llegemann. — De- 
 parture from Bremen. — Crossing the Arctic Circle. — Island of 
 Jan IMayen. — The ice line. — Separation from the Hansa. — 
 Adrift on the ice-floe. — AVinter. — Final rescue. — (itrinania 
 beset. — Winter. — Sledging ])arties. — Lieutenant Payer's re- 
 markable journey. — 77^ V north latitude. — Return of the Gcr- 
 vicinla. 
 
 Othkk ini])ortant di.scovorios followed the journcA-s of 
 Dr. Hayes and Ca])tain Hall, including- that of Ca])tain 
 Thomas Long, an American whaler, who in lsb7 discoveredi 
 ''a mountainou.s country of considerable extent in the Polar 
 Ocean, l)e\'(jnd Behring Strait,"' su])])osed at that time to 
 he th(^ western ])r(dongation of Plovf^r Island. 
 
 The same year Ga])tain Carlson and Ca])tain Palliser 
 sailed aero>s the genei'ally inacce>sibl(> Sea of Kara to th(^ 
 mouths of the Obi, — and Ca]")tain Johannsen succee(led 
 in circumna\ugating the whole archi])elago (jf Xo\'a Zembla. 
 In bSliS the hrst Ocrnian noi'th ])(Jar exi)editi(ni was fittetl 
 (lUt throuu'h the exertions of the scientist Dr. A. I'eh'rman 
 of (iotha. d"he yacht (irrc/iln/irl, commanded b\' Gaptain 
 Kolilewey, saileil to S))it zbergen. reaching Sp O.V \. off the 
 iiort !i coa.-t. and, ])a^-iiia down IIcnlo])en St rait, sightei 1 AAiche 
 Land, returning home the fall of the same year. 
 
 In IMIII and 1*^71). the Cei'mans mad(- a more siicce.-sful 
 attempt to ciili'i' the li>l> of Arctic di.-covery by exploring a 
 
 2(is
 
 CAPTAIX THOMAS LONG 269 
 
 (•()nsi(l('rul)le part of tlio previously unvisited coast of I'^ast 
 ( li'ccnlaiul. The ship (rertnania was ciioscn for tliis purpose, 
 l)ciii<>; expressly adapted for ice navi<i;ation ; the Hanm of 
 neai'ly the same size was t(j accompany lier. Captain Karl 
 Kcjldewey and ( 'ai)tain Fr. Hegemann were first and second in 
 command res])ectively. 
 
 '"The departure of the expedition from Bremerhaven," 
 writes Captain Koldewey, "took place on the loth of June, 
 LSOl), in the presence of his Majesty, the King of Prussia, 
 whose warm interest in this great national undertaking showed 
 itself in this solemn lujur in a manner never to be forgotten. 
 Amongst the numerous gentlemen in attendance on his ^laj- 
 esty werehisRoyal Highness, the Crand Dukeof Mecklenburg 
 Schwerin, Count Bismarck, the ^Minister of War and Marine, 
 von Ivoon. General von Moltke, and Mce-Admiral Jac-kman. 
 The ships lay at tlie entrance of the new harboiu' just outsidethe 
 sluice. Th(d-;ing, having been introduced to the scientific gentle- 
 men and the commander of tlie expedition, and having greeted 
 them with a heart}' shake of the hand, tlie Pr(\<ident of the 
 l^remen Conmhtte(», Ilerr A. G. Mosle, reriuested liis Majesty's 
 ])ei'mission to s])(^idv a few parting words ; and in an earnest 
 and impi'e>sive manner tlic speaker I'eferred to tlie greatness 
 and im|)ortance of the object, the self-denial, difficultic^s, and 
 dangei's whicli lay before them, but which th(-y all willingly 
 l)ra\'c(l for the lionour of their nati\'e land, for the honour of 
 tlie ( iennan na\"y. and of ( lerman science." 
 
 Jul}" 1 found the ex])fMlition in (ib' north latitude, 
 pa^-iiig the entrance Ix'tween Xorwa}' and tlu^ Slietland 
 I-I1-. "AMth that the German Oce;ui wa> left l)ehind and the 
 (ipeii se;i reached, which already made itself felt b\" the peculiar 
 •Atlantic swell. ■■" 
 
 ()ii th(^ oth of Jul\'. at fifty mimites past elev(Mi. tli(^ Crr- 
 ii/nnin ])assed the Arctic Circle, iKnirly under the meridian of 
 ( ireiiiwicli.
 
 ■^7(1 
 
 THE CHEAT WHITE SORT 11 
 
 " \ \"i()lfnt wind was l)l()wiii<>'." writos C'aptaiu Koldcwcy, 
 "and with a >|)('cd (if nine knot.- we entered the Arctic Ocean, 
 which wa> to be our (juart ers for a whcjh' year. Tlie Ibui^a 
 was .-onie miles in advance of us, and was the first to unfurl 
 the Xortli (iennan fhiji : at the >anie time fii'in^' (.)ne <iun. Wo 
 foHoweiL ( 'onformahly to the custom, as on cro.-<int;' lh(> 
 ecjuator, Xe])lune came on hoai'd to welcome us, and wish us 
 succe» on our voyau'c ; of course not witliout all those who 
 hail not >'et ci'osseil the Arctic ( 'ircl(> ha\'iiiU' to underji'o the 
 rather rou<ih shavinii,' and chi'istenina; customary on such 
 occa-ions. Tlie ceremony closed (as is usual on such occa>ions) 
 with a .u'ood ulass of \\'ine, to wash away the evil effects of tlu^ 
 cold water." 
 
 On board the Ihnisa the proceedin.u' was carrietl ouf ntuch 
 more scru])ulou>ly. Describini;- the frolic, Dr. Laul)e writes 
 thu-- : — 
 
 'A\'e entered into the s])irit of the fun willingly, knowing; 
 that our >ailoi's wwv decent fellow-, and would not carry things 
 too fai'. e\-en liad we not entered on the -lijj)'s books with 
 them in Breman, and become .<ea!nen. Oui' cai'i'entei' went 
 about the v.'hole da\' with a sly, lau'ihinu' face, and towards 
 (•\'enin2: had f|uite lf)<t his u-ual chatline-s. ^\'e our.-eh'es 
 kept ill the cabin. >o a< not to witne>s the ])reparal ions. At 
 midniuht we were called on deck. A u'un was fired, and a- its 
 t liundei- ( Ijcil awa\'. we lu-ard the \\-fll-f:nowii cry. ' >}iip ahoy !' 
 ddu'ee wonderful fl'IiU'es climbeil o\-er the bow-jjrit : \e|)time 
 fir-t, in an ]A-kim<i'- dn''--. with a u'reat A\'hite cnttdn be;ird, 
 a -e\-(-]|-[)rMmivd dolphin hai'jioon for a trldeiit in one hand, 
 and a -pi-akin'j,-i rumpft in the oi hei\ A tai'paulin wa- -pi'ea;! 
 on the pU;irtcr-deek. ;iii(l ;i -tool placeil Upon it. h looki'd 
 like ;i iudu'-*- bi'iieh. Ilei'e i';ifh of U- Wa - -eated with eyes 
 
 bomid. wiiih' th'' ma-kfil tellowei'- of tin' norihir-n liuler 
 wen; tlii'iiimJ! t!:" ei;-tMtii;)r\' proci'i'diu'i-. I w;i- -oapetl and 
 sha\'i'd : liiid \ept mif wa- nil 1-1 f.-e.'oral ile tome: hi' know-^
 
 SECOND (ujumax expedition '■111 
 
 what .ii;{)()(l cigars arc, antl lias gi'^'iit r(\s])C('t for those to whom 
 they b(>long. Th(Mi eaine the christ(>nin<i;, which in this cas(i 
 was not ai)])hed to the head (as is usual) but to tlu^ thi'oat and 
 stomach. Neptime put some ({uestions to me through his 
 siieakin<;--trum])(^t, desiring me to answer. I saw his object, 
 answered with a short 'Yes' and thc^n closed my lips. The 
 mischievous waterfall rattled over me, causing universal 
 merriment. T\iox then took the bandag(> from my eyes, 
 that I might see my handsome face in the glass ; but instead of 
 a looking glass, it was the combing of the AVood(ui hatchway, 
 which with grf.nit gravity was lu^d before; my face by the bar- 
 ber's assistant. I was no^v' absolvcnl, and could laugh with 
 tlu^ others, whilst seeing my conu'ad(^s obliged to go through 
 the sam(^ course^ onc^ after \\\q otluM-." 
 
 By the 9th of July, tlie ex])(Mlition came in sight of tiu^ 
 island of Jan Alayen. Tlie midnight: hours had now beconu^ 
 ])erceptibly lighten-; even in the cabin a lamp was no longxn- 
 needed, and at twelve o'clock at nigiit it was ])ossible to read 
 and write without difficulty. Fog and snow liad alrcnidy 
 l)egun tlu'ir rule of terror, and Cai)tain Koldewey records three 
 hun(lr(>d and sixty-eight hotu's of fog from the 10th of July 
 to the 1st of August. 
 
 Tlu^ island of Jan Alayen lies in th(> middh^ of tlu^ wide, 
 (1(H>]) sea b(Hwe(ni Norway and (Ireemland, Ic(>land and Spitz- 
 b(M'g(Mi ; and is distant al)()ut sixty g(^()grai)liical miles from 
 the coast of ("u'CHmland. It was discoviM'CMl and named after 
 a Dulchnum who visitiMl it in tlu^ yc^ar Kill. It is nine miles 
 in length and one mile in I)i'(>a(lth, I'ocky and mountainous, 
 with only two s])ots of flat b(>ac!i s\iilabk' for landing-placets. 
 Th(^ nortlu^asi ])art rises to a lu^ight of six thousand (nglit 
 hundred sixly-thi-cn^ feet, in. the lofty ])(H'r(Mib(M-g, wliich has a 
 ku'gc ci'at(M-, 111 the ye^ai' 17;)2, Bm-gomasteM' AndeM'son, of 
 IIaml)urg, r(^])ort(>d a dfH'ided eruption from a small sitU^ 
 crater, and in 1818, Scoresby and another ca])tain saw great
 
 Zrl TlIK (HIE AT WHITE NOllTU 
 
 pillars of smoke rising from the same place. Of this wonderful 
 isolated, sno\v-co\"ered jx-ak, Lord Dui'ferin, in "Letters fi'oni 
 High Latitudes," wrote, — 
 
 "My delight was of an anchorite catching a glimpse of the 
 seventh hea\'en." 
 
 Jan ALiyen lies so near the edg(~ of the ice-fuLls, that 
 from 1()12 to 1G40 it afforded the English and Dutch whale- 
 fishers a comfortable station for their train-oil ])re]')arati(jn. 
 One ship is reportcnl to have brought home one hundred and 
 ninety-six thousand gallons of oil in a single }-ear. 
 
 The ice line was reached July b"). "After a foggy day, a 
 light southerly breeze got U]), the sails hlled. the sliip answc>red 
 the helm once more, and we movcnl in a uorth-westerly course 
 ])etween small floes and brashes. A i)racti>(Ml ear might now 
 ncjtice a ])eculiar distant roai', which sec^med to come nc^arer 
 by degrees. It was the sea singing against the still hidden 
 ice. 
 
 "Xeai'er and nearer comes \\w rushing nois(\ E\'ery man 
 is on deck ; when, as with the touch of a magic wand, the mist 
 di\"ide<, and a few hundred \ards lu'foi'c us lies the ice, in long 
 lines like a deep indenttnl rocky coast, A\-ith walls glittei'ing 
 blue in the sun, and the foaming of the wa\"es mcunting high, 
 \\\\\\ the to]) coN-crecl with blinding white snow. The (\\'<s of 
 all rested with amazemi^nt on this grand ])auorama ; it was a 
 gloi'iou- but sei'ious mom(-nt. .-tii'red as we ^\•el■e Ity new 
 thoughts and feelings, by liopes and doubts, by bold and far- 
 I'eachiiig expert at i(;ii>." 
 
 I p to this time the C'(r//inn id and Ilniisa had -tood Avell 
 toncilier with occasional se|)aration in tlie fog<, and on the 
 ISth of July tlie oflicei's of the two ships exchanged !io>])ital- 
 itie-. The next da\\ thfoimT a fatal nii-iuider-tanding of 
 >iuiiab. the Uniisa -ej)afate(| from the (i( rnia nin . and they 
 ne\-er met again. 
 
 On the lNiI, of .!u]\-, t!i(. llniisii -tood ill ~'r .")<)' north lati-
 
 
 .Jan- M vi lx 1-
 
 ADRIFT ON THE K'E FLOE 273 
 
 tudc and 10° ")4' west latitu{l(>. Tlic dark rock coast of East 
 (Irccidaud was visibk' for the first time from Cape Jjroor lluys 
 to Cape James. 
 
 l^y sailiii,t>;, towing, and warping, the Ilan.sd mack^ slow 
 ])rogi'ess throngh the ice. Tlie cai)tain and two officers and 
 1wo sailors made an attempt to land on August 24, hut were 
 ohlig(Hl to return to the ship without luudng accom])lished 
 their mission. (3n the 25th of August the Ilansa reached 
 within thirty-five nautical miles of Saljinc^ Island. T\\v ship 
 was continually subjectcxl to dangerous icc^ pressure, and often 
 f()rc(Hl southward b}' the drifting ice-fi(4ds. B}' the 0th of 
 September, she lay between two promontories of a large ice- 
 field, which eventually proved a raft of deliverance. ]5y the 
 14th of S{>pt(Mnl)er, she was completely frozen u\) in 7o° 25.7' 
 north latitude and 18° o9.5' west latituck-. At tlie mei'cy of 
 th(> di'ifting currents, th(^ Ilanm stood in imminent ])eril of 
 total desti'uction. ]^et^\'een October 5 an.d 14 the drift had 
 carried the sliip seventy-two nautical miles to the south- 
 southwest. The nights werc^ cold. som(>times 4° F. l)elow 
 zero. The on!\' sign of animal life to be seen were ravens, 
 wh.ich wer(> doubtk^ss wintering on the coast : once a gull and 
 a falcon made the ship a \'isit. A se\-ere storm from the 
 north-noi'thwest on tlu^ 19th brought disastrous pressure upon 
 tlie Ila/isa. 
 
 "Shortly before one o'clock, th(> deck seams s])rang, l)ut 
 still she seemed tight. AIig!it\' bk)cks of ice ))uslied them- 
 se!\'es undei' the bow, and, although they were crushed l)y it, 
 they forced the shi]) u]) no le-^s tlian seventeen feet. The 
 rising of the ship was an ext raiM'dinary and awful, yoi s])k"ndid 
 >pcctacle, of \\hicfi the V\'hole crew were witnesses from the 
 
 ice." 
 
 Iir;ili/!ng thi' gra\'il\' of the situation, Captain Ih^gcMnann 
 at once oi'dei'e(l clotliing. nautical inst rumeirts, and stores 
 to be removed fi'om the shi]) to a -afe distance. The pum])s
 
 -74 TiiH (;ih:at white noutii 
 
 Wi'vv put ill uclioii to fr(!(' hci' from water, hut to the horror 
 of all, it was (li.sc(jver('d Ix'fore nuuiy hour.s that the Hdiisa 
 was (looine(L 
 
 ■'('ahuly, thouf>;h much moved, we faced this hard fact." 
 
 There was not a minute's time to lose ; whih; one-half 
 of the men staye<l by the pumi)s, tlie others were husil}' cm- 
 <i'a^c(l bringing the m(jst necessai'}' articles from tiu.^ vessel 
 lo the floe. ( Iraduall}' the ship hlled with water, and by eight 
 in the morning the men who W(>re busy in the fore-p(>ak g(>t- 
 ting out (ir(;woo(l came with anxious faces to sa}' that th(! 
 wood was alread}' floaling below. At thi'ce o'clock the water 
 in the cal)in had reached the table, and all movable articles 
 were floating. 
 
 '■Piound about the ship la}' a cliaotic mass of heterogeneous 
 articles, and grou])s (jf feeble rats struggling with death, and 
 trembling with cold." 
 
 On the morning of the 21st, a last trij) was made to the; 
 Ila/t-sf! for fuel and her masts sacrificed t(j the stress of need. 
 She was then cut away from the ice that she might n(jt en- 
 danger tlie lives of those on the floe when she sank. 
 
 The shi])Avr(;cked crew, in the miserable shelter of tlu; cijal 
 house, settl<'(l themscl\-es to meet tlie exigencies of their 
 frightful position. In the fai' distance Ilalloway J jay and 
 (ila-goAv Island wei'c di>tinctl\' \'i<ible, liut nowhere a way 
 t lu'ougli t he icy laltyrinth. Slowlx', steadily, the ice-held 
 di'ifted to the s(jut h. I)y X()\-ember 3 the Lix'crpool coast had 
 \)('C]\ [)a->('(|, and the ])ictures(juc foi'mation of the coa>t 
 surroiniding Seorc^by Sound was di<tincll\' \'isibl(>. 
 
 'bill' health of the ])arty remained good: a monofonous 
 rouline of dail>' diitie- oecupied officers aici men. The cap- 
 ture of ;) w;ilru< a! id beai" ga\'e a welcome supply' of fre-ji meat . 
 ('hti-lnias \va- cheetiuliy celel)T';tted b>' tlie>e shipwi'ecked 
 mariner- isi the coal-lml on theii' r,i-eenland lloi'. A tree 
 arti-i icall;/ manufactured of pine wooel and Ijirch broom
 
 WIXTER 
 
 OTA 
 
 was naylydecoratod Avith paper riiip;^ and candles, — nor were 
 gifts wiuiling, and finally, wrote Dr. Lauhe in liis day-book : — 
 
 "In (juiet de\-()tion tlie festival ])assed by; the thouglits 
 which passed through our minds (they were nnich alike with 
 all) I will not put down. If this should he the last Christmas 
 we were to see, it was at least l)right enough. If, howe\'er, 
 we were destined foi' a happy return hom(^, the next will he 
 a brighter one ; may (iod grant it !" 
 
 The months of January and Febmary wer(^ fraught with 
 many anxious hours, owing to the numerous and severe storms 
 which threateiuMl destruction to the flo(\ Th(> hori'ors of 
 such an (Wjierience are A'ividly described as follows : — 
 
 On the lltli of January, "At six in the morning, Ililde- 
 brandt, who ha]:)pened to have tlie watch, bui'st in M'ith llu; 
 alarm, 'All hands turn out.' An indc^scribable tunnilt was 
 heard without. AVith furs anfl knapsacks all rusluMl out. 
 Rut the outf>r (Mitrance was snowed u}) ; so to gain the outside 
 (juickly, we hrok(^ through the snow-roof of tlie front hall. 
 The tumult of the elements which met us there was Ix^yond 
 anx'tliing we had ;dready ex])erienc(Ml. Scarcely' abk^ to lea\-(^ 
 tlu^ s]iot. we stood huddl(Ml togeth.er for ])rotection fi'om llu; 
 l)ad weather. Suddenly we lu^ard, A\'ater on the floe closer 
 by." The flo(^ surrounding us s])lit u]) ; a hea\-\' sc^a ai'o>(\ 
 Our field began to break on all sides. On the spot between 
 our hous(> and the ])iled-ui) stor(> of wood which was about 
 twenty-ti\'e ]iac(>s distant, thei'e >uddenl\' o])ene(l a huge ga]). 
 Washed by tlu^ ])owei'ful wa\(^s. it seeiiKMl as if the piece 
 iu-t broken off was about to fall u])on us : and at th(> same 
 time we felt the rising and falling of our now greatly reduce(l 
 floe. All seemed U)<\ . From our s])lit-u]') ice-field all tlie 
 iirewood was drifting into the raging sea. And in like man- 
 nei- we h;id nearly lost oui' boat liisinnrcl: : (>ven the whale- 
 bo.nt was obliged to be brought foi' safely into the middle of 
 the !ioe. l"h(> laru'e bo;u . beintr too hi'av\ lo handle, we wcie
 
 I'.ti 
 
 TIIK (iUFAT WHITE XORTfr 
 
 ohligcd to gi\'(' u]) entircl}'. All this in a temperature of 
 — 9;,', and a liea\'}' >l(jrni, wa> an arduous piece of Avork. 
 The eonnuunity were iiivi(le(l into two ])art>. W'e bade each 
 other ,u'(jod-l)y with a farewell .-hake of the hands, for the 
 next moment we m:_uht ,u<) d(jwn. Dec}) der~])ondency luid 
 taken hoM of our .-cientific friends : tlie crew were still and 
 quiet. Tluis we stood oi' cowere(l by our boats tlie whoh; 
 da\', the fine ])ric]<ing snow i)enetratin<i' throu.uh the clothes 
 to the skin. It A\-a> a mii'acle that ju-t that part of the fioc 
 on which we stood -liould fi'om its soundne-s keep t(.)gether. 
 ( )ur floe, now onl\" b"j() feet in diameter, wa- the oo to -!0 feet 
 miclt'U< of the formerly exten-i\"e field to which we hadi en- 
 tru.-tcd our ])reser\'ation. Toward.- e\"en!n,u.' the ma»e.- of 
 ii'e became clo-el\' ])acked au'ain. At tlie >ame time the hea\'y 
 sea had -ub-iilcil and iimnediate daniicr .-eemed ])a.-t. Ee- 
 liev(Ml. Ave ])art(;ok of -omethinu; in the hou.-e and lay down, 
 aftei- .-I'ttinu' a ^i'ood watch. It wa- pa-t miilni.u'lit. wlim v.'e 
 were rou-C'il fi'om otu" >l('ep by the cry of teri'f.ir : the voice of 
 the sailor on watcli, exclaimin,^. 'Turn out. w(> are driftin,ij; 
 on t(- a hiii'li iceberg I' All ru-hed to the enti'ance : drc--e(l 
 a- Ave alA\'ay> were ; we had no time to run through the loug 
 >iioAv j)a-.-age, but bur.-t ii])en the i'oi:f. climbiMl on to the door 
 and .-o out. What a -i.iiht ! f'lo.-" u])on u<. a- if hanuliig 
 o\'i'r our head-. toAVC'red a liuge iu;i-.< of ice. of giaiit ])ro])or- 
 tioji-. 'Ii i- ])a-t," .-aid the ca])tain. A\"a- it really an icc- 
 
 bft-M-,,,]- |ji(. iniraLi'e of on'-, or the hiuh 
 
 AVc could not 
 
 dfcjtlc ilic ([ue-tiom ' twinn- to the -Avii'i ne-,- of thf- d.rift, 
 the gha-tly object lia<! dii-a])])eared the next moment." 
 
 .\gaiu o!! the cA-eniuu' of the \\]\i a friglitful -torm I'aged, 
 A\iiicll -el the ice oiic(' more ill Ulot i( )1L. 
 
 "Ill t!ie iuimediate iieiLibboUrhooil of t!:e hoU-e. our i'oe 
 biU'-t : and the lii'i.keu ire f!e\\- hiuh around u-. It wa- hiubi 
 time to bi'iiiLi' the boat li'isinitnl: and 'he whale-l loat more into 
 
 the middl'.'. Thi- Ave (lid: bm tl.e\- AA'ere fal' too heaA-iJA"
 
 WINTER 
 
 077 
 
 luilcni to l)riut;- further. On this account, furs, sacks of bread, 
 and clijlliinj:; wd'c takt'n out and packed on two sledges, which 
 were, liowever, soon c(.)nipletely snowed up. All our lalxjur 
 was rendered heavier by the storm, which nuuk' it almost 
 impossible to bi'eathe. About eleven, we c>xperienced a 
 sudden fissure which threatened to tear our house asunder; 
 \\'ith a thundering noise an (n-ent to(.)k place, the conseciuences 
 of which, in the fir>t moments, tleranged all calculations. 
 Ciod only kuiAvs h(jw it hap})ened that, in our flight into the 
 open, norie came t(j haVm. But there in the most fearful 
 weatlier w(^ all stood roofk^ss on the ice, waiting for daylight, 
 which was still t(>n hours off. The boat King ]ViUi(u/i 
 la}' on tlie edge (jf th(> floe, and. miglit have floated away at 
 any moment, h'ortunately the fissure did not g(^t larger. 
 A> it A\-as s()m(^A\iiat (juieter at midnight, most of the men 
 crept into the Captain's boat, when the thickest sail we had 
 was dr;iwu o^'er them ; some tocjk I'cfuge in the house. J^ut 
 thci'e, as the door had fallen in. the}' entered b}' the sk}'Iight, 
 and in the hu!'r\' broke tlu^ ])anes of glass, so that it was soon 
 fuH of snow. This night "was the most dreadful one of our 
 ad\"enlurous \-()yag(; on the fk^e."" 
 
 lM>r five nights tlie men sle])t in the boats; the da} s were 
 em])lo}-ed in raising their settlement from its ruins. A 
 woo.den kitclun was l)uilt and a dwelling hous(\, exactly like 
 the one d(>str()}'ed, but half as large (M feet long 1)}' Id Ijroad 
 and l.l high in the iniddlej. 
 
 In .-])ite of such friglitful ex])ei'ienc('S, the nu^n kept cliec^i'ful. 
 uiidaun1e<l, and exalted : in fact, the cook kej)t a I'ight seaman- 
 like humour, hax'ing exclaimed while re])airiiig the coiiV'c 
 kettle, during the friglitful ])res>ure of the ice which (]e-tro}-e(l 
 the tioc, •'if tli(> floe Would old}- -hold togeth.ci' until he liad 
 fiui-hcd hi< kettle I he wi-i!e(l <o to make the evening tea in 
 it, -o that, before oiu' (le])artur(^j we might ha\'e something 
 warm.'"
 
 ■l~>i Tin: CREAT WHITE yORTH 
 
 ]'"('bruary and Alai'ch f(Hiii(l them h('l})le.<sly drifting to the 
 -^mitiiward, aiid by Jut-tcr il7tli (jf April) thc\' la\' flcjatiiig 
 lja(4vward> and for\vard.< in the I^ay of L'nharbik. Linnets 
 and .-uow-huutinji,'.- suou made their a|)pearance, so fearless 
 and eonfidinjj,' that, "Sunie of tlieni," so >ays Bade's day-hook, 
 '■^\"ill alnujst pereh upon ()\u' n(jses, and in fi\'e minutes al- 
 lowed themselves to he caught three times."' 
 
 On the 7th of May the agreealde sight of open water in 
 the direction of land chci-rcd both officers and men. The 
 cai)tain n(jw decided that an attemjrt would ])e made to leave 
 the floe and reach the coast. The little connnunit}', divid(Ml 
 anhd three boats, bade farewell to tiie ice-floe whieli liad Ijeen 
 their liome for two lumdr(-d days. 
 
 During sc\-eral day< of bad weather, small progress was 
 made. 'Idle m(>n suffered c(jnsiderably frc^ni exhaustion, 
 >now-blindness, and want of ])ro])er shelter and food — the 
 latter ])robIem was (occasioning c(jn<ideral)le c(.)ncern, and 
 alread\' the men were "'almost hjoking their eyes (out after a 
 seal." There wa-^ but >ix weeks' sh(ji't ])rovi-ions on hauil 
 and a long distance to tra\"el (jvi'i' a barren and uninhabited 
 C()a-t before the settlement ('(nild be reacheil. 
 
 The ice remaining umuiAigable, it wa< decided to make tlu^ 
 1-land of Illuidlek, dragging tiie liea\'\' boat-load- o\'er the 
 all but im]);i— a'Oie ice hmnnKjcks. 
 
 P.y the 2}tli of May. Mr. Hiidebrandt atid th(> sailors 
 Phiiij)]) and Paul, set foot on firm groimd. Theii- eiicourag- 
 iuu' r('])ort (Teei'ed the othei'> to -inular exertions, but the 
 pmure--- wa- -low and exh;ui,-1 itig. Xot until the lih of .bme 
 \\''-re iheeiitire ] )art \' landei 1 at Illuidlek. The inland })r<A"ed 
 iif rocky t'l irniat ion, naked, and bare (jf vegetation. 
 
 " P\ery\\-heri' we find nothing," writes one of the ])a!'ty, 
 " I'Ut bare bar'-en cliif-, t he liiuher the wilder, s])arinul\' clothed 
 wi'h niM~- and -tunted willows, i^ut n(j ti'ace of human in- 
 habjlalit-."
 
 '• a Ell MAS I A " BESKT 270 
 
 Two clays later (June 6) they started once more; their 
 object Avas to niak(^ for Friech'icksthal, the nearest colony on 
 the soutliwest coast of Greenland. On June 13, 1870, after 
 passing throut^h the Straits of Torsudatik, and skirting the 
 coast, the Icjnged-for bay was reached. '"A few hundred 
 steps frcnn the shore on tiie grc^en ground, stood a rather 
 spacious red house, top])ed by a small tower. It was the mis- 
 sion house. (iroups of natives from the shore speedily 
 welcomed tlie wanderers and the cheerful gi'eeting of th«! 
 AIora\'ian missionaries: 'That is tlie (ierman flag I They 
 art' (jur ])cople ! Welcome, welcome to (ireiniland I' fell like 
 music in tlieir ears. After partaking of th(> gcnierous h(jspital- 
 it\' extended by the missionaries, and taking a nuich-needed 
 rt>st, they pushed on in the liopes of reaching the settlement 
 of Julianeshaab, distant some eighty miles, wliere the Dani.-h 
 Cond'tnce was expected at any moment, and would be their 
 only mf^^'ans of reaching Europe that year." 
 
 Ijy the 25th of July, the (jfFicers and crew of the Ilfuisn 
 weighed anchor for the homeward vo\'age. I'jy the 81st of 
 July tluy wfM'e on the liigh sea in Davi;- Strait. '"Xo moi'e 
 ice I Set southwards, and — O heavenly music of the word 
 — homewards I" 
 
 Tt will l)e rememl)(>r(Hl that on Jul}' 20, l.S()9, the two shi])s 
 liad ])ai'ted (•()m])any, the (rorrtKniln proceerling on lier course 
 with ofhccM's and crew, under ihe im])re--ion that the Ilnnsa 
 would rejoin her within a slioi't time, AVhen. this did not 
 tal^e ]^lace, mucli coueern v/as felt for her fate. ])y tlie 27th 
 of July. x\\i' (i< riiuiiiiii stood ~'-\^^ 7' north latitude, and ]0" 1' 
 west jonuitude. Two days later an interesting note is made 
 of the ])ecu!iar condition of the atmo--])here. 
 
 "The Aveathei' wa-^ vIvav ainl -till, and we ha'l a good o])])or- 
 tunity of o!)ser\-inu- the refi'action of liuht and the mirauv. 
 The whole atmo-])hei'e was (]ui\'ering with a kisid of avmvv 
 motion, -o that the exact (jut line of the (jbject was cjften -o
 
 'so 
 
 Till-: CUKAT WHITE y<)l!TII 
 
 distorted us to Ix' uurccounizublc It ma}' he iiiiaainc*! tluit 
 pictures ot' lliin.u'- far lieyoud our rau.u'c (jl' -iiiht (■()uld tliu^ be 
 seen. Score^liy relate>, and it afterward- ],)r(n-ed true, that 
 he once saw and reco<ini/ed las i'ather's >hi]) peifictly in the 
 inira,L!,(' when it was thirt\" miles (h<lant. The effects of this 
 ])henonienon on the (Hstant ice was w(jnderful : >onietini(-s 
 it a])])eared lij^e a nh,uht\' wah. and s(jnietinies hke a toAvn 
 rich iii tower- and ca-tl(>." 
 
 Carefull}' pu-hiniz; a way between the fioe<. the (icrnidn'Ki 
 stoofl ^\■itllin thirt}' mile.- (jf Sabine Island by Au,u'U>t 1. Sa.ii- 
 ii!<;' >traijj,-!it for ( iriper lioad-, r-he at la-t anchored in a -mall 
 bay whieh wa< afterward her AX'inter harboui'. 
 
 On the oth of Au,u'u-t , anchoi' wa- dro]^])ed, ai!<l the (lerman 
 flau' hoi>ted on (du'cidand -liil. amid h^ud clieei'-. Sabine 
 I-land forms a ])ai't of the ^u'roup known a- Pendulum I>!and-. 
 di.-cover(-d b\' ('la\'eriiiu.' in ls2o. Sabine's ob<ervator>" 
 was carefully seai'ched foi'. l)ut no indications of it- remain- 
 wei'e f(nmd. Ti'ace- of E,-kimo -mmuer hut- A\'ere discm'eriMl, 
 h(;A\'e\-er. _u'i\'in,ti' e\'idenee of lonsi; liabitalion. 
 
 ( >n the ]7)\\[ of Auuu-t, t he '''V /'///'///'''/ ^ailed a< far a< To' 
 .'!!' north latitudj', -ome di-tance bfyond Shannon Islaml. 
 the extrenu' ])oint disco\-er'ed by ( 'la\'erin'j,' and Sabine. At 
 Siiannon I-land. I'ir-t Li'-utenant Payer. aci'oni])anie(l by 
 -e\'('!i companion-;, ami ])ro\-i-!oned fm' -ix day-, made a t r\' 
 of inv('-t iu'at inn. Lieutenant Payei''- de-efipi i( m of t he pla- 
 teau to the -outhwest of Sliaunon i- i!it('r''-t iliu-. Teh-platte. 
 a- it i< calle(l. i- -ix hund.red and -e\'enty feet ;ibo\-f tlie -ca. 
 ■• Ih-r<- on th'' broad mon?it;iin top were ma—'- of I'libbi-h of 
 uni-i-- fi ii'mai 'on. re-eniblim:' t ho-e on Pendulum I-land. We 
 were al-M a-tiini-hc(l by the -i<i!:t of ,a l.aruc !ial ])ri mioiit oi'y 
 !-oulh o!' IIa\'-1ai'k w!ii<'h i< not di-tini-tlv iii.arkcd nn ( 'la\-- 
 erinu"- ch.art-. Tlie \\r\\- nf the front cna-t i u' ( d'ecnland AVa- 
 fu!i I if in;ije-; if 1 .i-;iu!>\'" 
 
 lla\un,u' la.fj'U up wint if (piai't er- at Sabine I-land. Si'])teiM-
 
 uiyrKi: 281 
 
 l)'n' 13, ("aptaiu Koldcwty and LicHilcuaut Pay(>r undertook 
 a --ledtic journey to Flegely Fiord. They returned to the .ship 
 Se])t(Mnb(M' 21, after an absence of sev(ni (ho.'s, having travelled 
 13)3o miles. The longAvinter })assed in lluMisual monotonous 
 fashion, and in pivparation for the spring sledge journeys. A 
 thrilling incident, however, occurnnl early in March, Avhich is 
 almost unpreced(>n1ed in Arctic adventure. 
 
 'A\'e were sitting,"' writes Lieutenant Pay(M', '"fortunately 
 sil(>nt in tlie cabin, wluni Koldcnvey suddenly heard a faint cry 
 foi' h(>lp. AVe all hurriedly tumbUnl up the companion-ladder 
 to the deck, when an exclamation from Borgen, 'A l)ear is 
 carrying me off I" struck painfully on our ears. It was dai'k ; 
 we could scarcely see anA'thing, but we made dii'cctly for the 
 (luartcM- whence^ the cry proceeded, armed with pol(>s. weapons, 
 i^tc, ov(M- luunmocks and di'ifts, when an alami-shot, which 
 we fired in the air, seemed to make some little im|)ression, as 
 the i)ear dropped his prey, and ran forwai'd a few ])a(H\s. He 
 turncnl again. liow(^ver, dragging his \-ictim o\'ei' the broken 
 shore-ice. close to a field which stretched in a soutln^'ly direc- 
 tion. All depended upon our coming u]) A\'ith him Ix^fore he 
 should readi this field, as h(^ would carry his prey over tlu^ 
 o])(Mi plain with the spcnnl of a hoi'sc, and tlius esca])e. AA'e 
 succ(H^d(Hl. Th(> bear turncnl u])on us for a moment, and tluMi, 
 scared by our contimious fire, 1(>1 fall hi< ])i-(\v. \\"(^ lifte(l 
 our ])oor comrade up on to 1 he ice, to bca!' him to his cabin, — ■ 
 a task which was rendered somewluit difficult !>}■ the slipp(>ry 
 and unevcai surface of th(> ic(\ P)Ut aftei' we had gone a litth^ 
 way. ]^)org(Mi implored us to make as much hasl(> as ])ossible. 
 ()!i ])rocuring a light, th(> coldest nature would luu'e becMi 
 shoclceil ;it the s])ectacle whicli poof Borgen [)re-ented. Tlu^ 
 bear had torn his seal]) in se\-eral phiees. and he had rec(M\-e(l 
 injui'ie< in other ])arts of his iiody. His clothes and liair wei'e 
 saturated with blood. We impi'o\ised a couch for him in the 
 vcav of our cabin, as liis own was not lari!,(> (>;iouu:h,. The first
 
 ::^<S2 THE CUE AT WHITE yoirrir 
 
 operation was })('rforin(Hl upon liiiu on Ww cabin table. And 
 hei'e we may briefly notice tlie singular fact that, although ho 
 had been carricMl more than 100 pac(^s witli his skull almost 
 laid l)are, at a tempc^'ature of — 13° Fahrenheit, his seal}) lieahxl 
 so pei'feclly that not a single portion was missing." 
 
 Pvorgen (h^sciibes thi^ sudden attack of tlu^ ))ear as follows : 
 ''About a (|uarter bcvfore nine p.m. I had gone out to observe 
 the occultation of a star, which was to take place about that 
 time, ;uid also to take thc> meteorological readings. .Vs I 
 A\"as in tlu^ act of getting on shore, ( 'aj)tain Koldewey came 
 on to the ice. W'v s])()ke for a few moments, when I \\cni on 
 shore, wliile he returncMl to the cabin. On my return from 
 the obsei'vatory, about fifty st('p,s fi'om the vess(^l, I hc^ai'd 
 a rustling iioise to the left, and became? aware of the ])roximity 
 of a bear, d'here was no tinu^ to think, or us(Mny gun. The 
 grip ^\■as so sudden and rii])i(l. that 1 am unal)le to say how it 
 was done; Avhether the bear rose and struck m(^ down with 
 his fore-paws, or whether he ran m(> down. But fi'om the 
 charnder of the injuries I ha\'e i'ecei\-ed (contusions and a 
 deep cut on tlu^ left ear), I conclud(^ that tlu^ fornuM' must 
 ha\'e been th(> case. Th(^ newt th.ing I feU Avas the tearing of 
 my scalp, A\'hich. was onl\' ])r()tect(Ml by a sIcuH ca]). This is 
 theii' ino(l(! of attacking s(vils, but, owing to the slip[)eriness of 
 their skulls, tlu^ t(H'lh glid(^ o!f. The ciy for lielp which I 
 uttered iVightened the animal for a momeid. ; but he turned 
 again and bit me se\-eral tim(>s on the head. The alarm had 
 meatiAvhile b(>en heard by the ('aptain, Avho had not yet 
 reache(l the cabin. He hiu'i'iecl on dec!<, con\-iiiced himself 
 that it wa^ rea,ll>- an ahu'm, roused up the ci'ew and hastened 
 oil to Ihe ice, bringing assistance to his struggling conu'ade. 
 The noise ('X'idently frightened the bear, and he trotted off 
 with lii-; pi'ey, which he dragged by the head. A sliot fired 
 to frighicn tli(^ crealurc ctfected its ])urpose, iinismuch as he 
 dropped me, and spi'ang a few st(>ps aside; but lie inune-
 
 LTFA'T. paver's HEM AEK All LE JOUR XF.Y 2S3 
 
 diutcly s(M/,('(l luc by the arm, niul, liis hold pi'oviii^' insuflicic^nt, 
 lir s(MZ('(l luc by the right huiul, on which was a fur glove, 
 and this gave tlu^ ])ursu('rs time to come U}) witli the hrute, 
 which had by its great specxl left them far behind. lie was 
 now making for the shore, and would certainly have escapcnl 
 with his prey, liad he succcH'ded in climbing the bank. How- 
 ever, as he came to the edge of the ice, he tunuHl along the 
 coast side, continuing on the rough and broken ice, which 
 gi'catly retarded his s])(hmI, and thus allowtnl his pursuers 
 u])on the ice to gain rapidly upon him. After being ch'agged 
 in tliis way for about 300 paces, almost strangl(>d by my 
 sliawl, whicli the bear luid seized at the same tim(\, he dropped 
 me, and imnuHliatidy afterwards Koldewey was l)ending over 
 me, with the words 'Tliank Clod ! he is still ali\-e.' The bear 
 stood a few paces on one side evidtaitly undecided what course 
 to pursue, until a bullet gave him a hint that it was high time 
 to take himself oiT." 
 
 Preparations litiving be(Mi completed for an ext(>nded sledge 
 journey to examine 1 lu^ bays and inlets of the mainland, the 
 ]xirty stai'ted Mai-ch S. ]S70, and wei'e absent luitil April 27 
 after tw(Mity-three da\"s of most arduous laboui's. Lieutenant 
 I'ayer had the sati-;faction of reaching 77° I' north latitude, 
 at that time tlu> most noi'therly ])oint i^ver rcviched on tlu^ east 
 coast of ( ireenland. I''rom an ele\'ate(l sight the sea np]:)(^ared 
 co'x-ered with ;ui unl)roken field of hummocks, and land was 
 seen to strict ch out in a nortluM-h' direction as far as 1lu^ eye 
 could I'each. 
 
 OtluM' journ(\vs which followcMl at close intervals greatly 
 added 1o tlie geogra])hical knowh^dgi^ of the coast. t)n the 
 return from omM)f these, they disco\'ered (\)\\\ of August) the 
 eiit!';uic(^ to a magnificent fioi'd to the south of Cape Franklin 
 '73^ 10' north latitude), into which the\' ])(Miet]'ated to a dis- 
 tance of s(>\-(>n1y-two nautical mil(\-<. As ihey advanced 
 into the intei'ior, a decided change in the 1em])e)'ature was
 
 -^1 Tin: CHEAT WHITE \()irri[ 
 
 noliccd. the at iii()>1)1i'T(' and water hccamc warnicr. and lierds 
 ui reindeer and niu-k-oxen were seen: huuerflies, bees, and 
 othei' in-e<'t> fiutlereil ()\-er llie "i'l'een earth. Nothing euuld 
 exceecl the iii'an<leur oi the scener\-. 
 
 ■• Xuinerou- lilaeicrs and cascades descended from the nioini- 
 tains, wiiieh rose liiuher and higliei' as the\' a<h'anced lowartis 
 the we.-t. Lieutenant Payer and Doctor ( "opeland ha\'ing 
 chnihed a peak 7t)l)0 i'eet high saw the fi(jrd .-till hranching out 
 in the di-tance, aiid towards the west a remote chain of 
 mountain-, situated ahout ;)2^ AA'. lonu'., ri>ing to an altitude 
 of at lea-t 11, ()()() feet, terminated the magnificent ])ros])ect. 
 The interior of (ii'cenland thus |)ro\'('d it>elf to he not a mere 
 nak(-d ])!ateau co\'ej-e(l ^\•ith jjerpetual ice-fields, luit in some 
 part- at lea-t a countr}' (jf Alpine gi';indeur."" 
 
 * )n tl:e 21th (jf Augu-t. the (iinnnnid steered her cotu'se 
 for honi'- : a- the ship cleared the last of the ( '.reenland ice, 
 ("a|)tain Ivoldew^'V (iuote(l the word- of old Scoresl)y under 
 >iniilar condition-. ■■-MyA\'atch i- o\'ei'I" he u-ed to .-ay — 
 and turning to Mr. Seng-taclie. ('ai)tain Koldewey exclaimcil, 
 "AI\' watch i- o\-erI"' and reiireil to hi- cahin witli a feeling 
 of -ecuril\' tiiat he luul not enjoyed for man\' a da}'. 
 
 Pui--uinii; a cour-e pa-t Iceland lietweeii the Faroe and 
 Sheihmd i-le-. they -loorl off Heligolaiul. Sej)temher 10. 
 ■'At da\'h'rea;\, t;:ouli'h we !iad -eeu Uo ])il<it. We I'ecognized 
 Waiiucrooi!.'.'. and -tf'ered along the South wall to the mouth 
 of 1 !:(■ \\ e-e,". X( ) -i^u (,f a -!iip ! The \\'e<er >eeiiied to ha\'e 
 
 diefl oui. Wheiv are the ))ilot- hidden? Ai'e the\' l\'ing 
 I II ril II on ai 'Count of ye-t ei'da>"'- -t orm ? W ejl, t lien, we mu-t 
 rnn inio the \\f-^-v wii'iout ihein. the wind i< fa\'oi'aMe, the 
 Weal her e|(-ar. \\v out er hu; ly will he ea->' to hnd : there i- t he 
 e'lnreh-l ■■)W\-V of \\ ;ingei'oo'i.'i'. Su-pecl ing Hot hlllU'. W'i- -teered 
 on: the towei' hear- -out !i--oUl hwe-t , -oUiln\'e-t hy -outh, 
 -oiit !iW(-i . hii' i!M 1 iiioy in -iuht . The ( 'apt ain and -i eer-nian 
 loo!-; at eaeh olher in a-loni-hnient. ('an we ha\'e heen ,-(j
 
 nj-rrriix of tuk '' gkilmama" 285 
 
 mistaken and out of our rockouius "•' l>ut, no! Tliat is 
 certainly Wan52;er()oj>;e ; the (k"i)tii of Avatcr ai2;ro(>s, our com- 
 pass is correct. Xo (U)ul)t a})out it, we are in the W'eser ; 
 something unusual nuist hav(^ ha])pene(l ! Still no sail in 
 sight! But what is that ? Yonder are tluM-oads. There are 
 sev(M-al large vessels under st(^am ; tluw a1 least can give us 
 souK^ information. So we make for th(>m. We sa,luted the 
 (ierman fkig, and soon the cry was he;u'd, 'A\'ar, war with 
 k' ranee ; Xa])oleon a pi'isoncr ! France has declared a lle- 
 ])ul)lic ; our armies are before^ Paris ! ' And then, ' Ilaiisa 
 destroyed in the ice, crew saved.' We thought we were 
 dreaming, and stood stiff with astonishment at such gr;uid 
 and heart-stirring news. X'ot until a kjud huri'ah for King 
 William sounded from a hundred (ierman throats did we re- 
 gain our speech, and answer with another 'Hurrah!'"
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 Austrian cxpodition, 1S71. - Pa^'cr and \\'cy])rocht.. — The Tajdi- 
 liiijj adi'ift in the Polar ])acl>:. — Discox-cry of J'"ranz ,i(jscf 
 Land. --- Payer's <lcd<i-(> journeys. — Payer's farthest 82'"' ")' 
 north latitude. --( a])!' Idijiely. - Aliandoiunc-nt of the T((]iH- 
 linjj. — JJeli'cat of ofiicf'rs and cj'ew. — Picked up tjy liussian 
 fislu'ruien. ^ '" Ihjiue." 
 
 I!a\ix(; .liaiiK^l iinieh (li-linclioii for his valuahh; scrvifos 
 in the second ( ici'nian ('.xpiMJitioii, Pieutciumt Pax'cr ^vas re- 
 soh'cd lo continue iii the paih of polar (lisco\'ery. The fol- 
 lo\\'in,<i' yeai'. in com])any with iiis coUeatUiie and I'riend, Lieu- 
 tenant \\'ey])recht of the Aust ri;in-f luii.u'ariaii \a\"\', he 
 ef|ui])pe(l tlie Xorw'eii-ian schooner !shjii/')i and examined the 
 v^hj^c of the ice 'oetween S])it zoer^ucii and Xo\-a Zeinhla, 
 reaching- 7S' l-'P north latitude, and \'2^ .'JO' ea>t lon^uil ude, on 
 { he 1 -1 of Septeinhe!'. hS71 . 
 
 'Idle zealous endea\'()urs of Payer and \\'ey])re(dit succeeded 
 in callin.L!,' into existefice a still lar,uer Au>ti'ian exi)editiou in 
 ls72. d'heir ])lan A\'as to .-elect a route 1 ly the north (ud of 
 Xi)\-a Zenilila with a \-ie\v t o inaldnii; t he \oi1 liea-t Pa-^au'e. 
 
 ' A\'ey])recht wa- lo ciwiinian.d the shij), T<'i( llhnjj', wdiile 
 Lieutenant Pax'er was to conduct the >led^-;- ])ariie-. ddie 
 Ti i,t lllnilj' r~:\\\cil from P)i'eiuei'!ia\'en dune PL 1n72. hearing; 
 in he!' cour,-e lo dd'oni-oe. Ifer e(|uii)nient wa- hhei'al and 
 cc'efuhy ■-(■lected, {he tot al e\i)en--e of t lie expedii ii m a mount - 
 iim to L'ls,.'i:!d. d'he olhcei'- and crew munhei-ed twent\'- 
 ft )ur ~i lUP. 
 
 ■' i )ila\"eil 1 1\- -torm- auionu' Pui' L'lffoden l.-le:-, t h''\" did !iof
 
 .ir>'77.'/.i.v arctk: vovagi-js 287 
 
 reach Troinsoe until Juh' 'A. Ten days lattT the TegeWiojJ 
 turned her ])n)w to the north ; the X()i'\V('L;,ian (•()a>t with its 
 inan\' .uhicicrs ^\•as in full view on July 10, North Cape loomed 
 in the liiue i[istan('(\ J^y July 2.3, while in lat. 71" 0' lo" X., 
 the ice -was siti'lited ; prijceedinu; with careful na\'igati(.)n 
 throu,t;h o])cns in the frozen ocean, the shij) ino\'ed in her 
 courx' until tlie end of Aujiiist, when she became heset nt^ar 
 ("ape Nassau, at the northern endi of Xo\"a Zemhla, havin<2; 
 just parted with the Ishjnm near I^arentz Isle, where ( 'ount 
 W'ilczek was placina; supplies for theii' possible retreat."' 
 
 '■Ominous were the events of tliat day/" wi'ites Payer, 
 ■'for immeiliately after wt' had made fast tlie Tcgcithojj' to 
 that floe, the ice closer' in tipon tis from all sides ami we l)(H'amo 
 I'lose ])risoncM's in its grasp. Xo water was to he seen around 
 us, and lurrr (Hjnin U'cre o'c dcsiinul ta sec our v^ssd in waUr. 
 IIa])]\\' is it f(_)i' nuni that inextinguishahU^ iKjpe enables them 
 to endure all the vicissitudes of fate, which are to test their 
 ])()wers of endurance, and that they can ne\-(>r see. at a glance, 
 the long sin'ies of disa])pointments in store for them I ^\'e 
 must have lieen filled with (U\-<})air, had Ave known tliat even- 
 ing that we were henceforward doomed to ohe}' the ca])rices of 
 the ice, that the >hip would nev(M' again float on the waters of 
 the sea. that all the expectations Avith which our friends, hut 
 a few hours hefor(\ >aw the T( gdtJK iff >\vau\ awa\' to the north, 
 were now ci'uslied : thai ire irerc in fdd no Jomjcr discorcri rs, 
 h'lt p'l.-sr/iijt rs (iijoinst our iriU on ilic ice. ]-"rom day to da}', 
 we IkiixhI foi- tli<' I'iour of our d<>li\"erance ! At hrst we ex- 
 j)ccted it hourly, tlien daily, then from week to w(M>k ; then 
 at tile -ea>ons of the year and chang(^s of the weather, then in 
 tic clumce- nf new years ! But Uuit hour lu n r coini . \v\ tlie 
 liiiht of ho])e, Avhicli su])])orts man in all hi- suffering, and raises 
 him ako\-t' them ail, nc\'er for-ook tis. amid all the d<'j)rc,— -iim- 
 intiuerici' of ex])e(iat ioMs clicrisheil only to he (li<a])])ointcd." 
 
 To rtnicli the coast of Sil^eria under these circmnstanct^s
 
 288 THE GliKAT WHITE SOllTII 
 
 had hccomc an iin])()-sii)ilit>', and even in case the ship Ix'canic 
 liberated, the search tor a winter harlxjur in \uva Zeniljla 
 would he a matter of ])eril and difiicailtx'. 
 
 I)ril'tin<i'. not with the cairrent, hut in the direction of tlie 
 prevailin.u; wind, the land of Xova Zenihla receded until it 
 faded out of >ight and only a desert of ice surrounded them. 
 The frightful ice con\"ul-ions which fre(|uently threatened 
 tlieir dc-ti'uction, determine(l the men to build a house on the 
 main ih^'. Avher(^ su])plies of coal, fuel, and provisions were 
 stored. Lieutenant Payer comments on the terrible condi- 
 tions under which they existed. 
 
 ■■()ne of u<, to-d.;iy. remarked \-er\- trulx'. that lie saw per- 
 fectl}' well how one miuht l<;>e \\\< reason with the continuance 
 of thes(> sudden and ince<>ant assaults. It is not dan^^ers that 
 we fear, but wor-e far; Ave are ke])t in a constant state of 
 readine-< to meet de-U'Uction. and know not whether it will 
 come to-day or to-mori'ow, or in a year. E'eery ni,ulit we are 
 startled out of >leep, and. like hunteil animal-, u]) we si)rino' 
 to await amid an awful darknes>. the end of an enterprise 
 from which all ho])e of .-ucces< ha> de])ai'te(l. It becomes at 
 last a mei'c mecliaiiical ])rocess to -eize oiu' i'ifle> and our ])a<4' 
 of nece^-arie- and I'u-h eiu deck. In t lie daytime, leaniii,u' o\'er 
 the bulwark- of the shi]). AN'h.ich tremble-, yea, almost (iui\'ers 
 the while, we look out oil a continual woi'k of (lotruclion ,u'oin<2; 
 on. and al iiiiihl, a- A\'e listen to the loud and ex'ei'-increasinti; 
 noi-i'~ wf the ice. we a,-a1 her that the foi'ces of our enemy ai'e 
 iiicrea-inu." 
 
 The houi's of th(-e dark an<l di-!iearteuiiiii: d.a\'- were pa>sed 
 in laidici' ()b-ei'\-at ion-, exerci-e. aiul ()cca>io!ial bear and 
 ^]eli^v iiiurney-. In -])ile iif thi- the time crept awa\- Avith 
 i:ide-cribalili' moiiotMuy. I)uriiiu' I-"ebruary the -hip di'ifled 
 fir-t Mi)ii iiwe-t and 1 heti nor; h. f tie ui'eale^t lonuitude attaineil 
 bi ill'.!,' 71 h.. !•• 7'.* X. ; and ih" -umnier of lS7o adviuice(l 
 wiliioiil aii\' -iiin- oi' freciim them.
 
 / 
 
 ^:::; 
 
 /•'/■"/" ■• Tin Vn.i.uj. ,,' //,, V,,p,.- Marn.-Unn \ C,,., Ltd., LnwU, 
 A. i;. \Miiiii;x--Kj'"iLi)
 
 DISCOVERY OF FEAyZ JOSEF LAND 289 
 
 With sad resignation the officers and crew looked forward 
 to passinji; anotlier wintei' in the ice, altliough plenty of birds, 
 seal, and Ix^ars insured them fresh meat, so essential for the 
 preserx'ation of health in high latitudes. 
 
 '■ A nieniorai)le day," writes Payer, "was the 31st of August, 
 1873, in 79° 43' Lat., and 59° 33' E. Long. That day brought 
 a surprise, such as only the awakening to a new life can pro- 
 duce. About midday, as we were leaning on the bulwarks 
 of tlu^ ship and scanning the gliding mists, through which the 
 rays of the sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting it- 
 self u}) suddenly, revealed to us, afar off in the northwest, 
 tlu^ outlines of bold rocks, whicli in a few minutes seemed 
 to grow into a radiant Alpine land ! At first W(> all stood 
 transhxed and hardly believing what we saw. Then, carried 
 away l)y tlie reality of our good fortune, we burst forth into 
 shouts of joy — 'Land, land, land at last !' There was now 
 not a sick man on l)oard the Tegctfhoff. The news of the 
 discov(H\v spread in an instant. EvcM'y ont^ rushed on deck, 
 to convince himself with his own eyes, that th(^ expc^lition 
 was not after all a failure, — there l.)ef()re us lay the prize 
 that could not \)v snatcluHl from us. Yc^t not f)y our own 
 action, but tlirough the happy caprice of our floe and as in a 
 dream had wc^ won it, luit when we thought of the floe, drifting 
 witliout int(M-mission, we iclt with r(>doubled pain, that we 
 W(>r{^ at the mere}' of its movt^nents. As yet we had secured 
 no Vv'inter harl)our, from which the exploration of the strange 
 land could ])e succc^ssfuUy und(M-tak(>n. For tlu^ i)r(>sent, too, 
 it was licit within tlu^ v(M'ge of jiossibility to I'c^ach and visit it. 
 If W(> had l<>ft our fio(\ we sliould hav(^ bcn^n cut off and lost. 
 It was only undcM' tlu^ influence^ of tlie first (>xciten.uait that we 
 made a ru^h o\"er our ice-field, although \vc knew that number- 
 l(^ss fissurc^s made it im])()ssil)le to reach tlu^ land. But, 
 difiiculties uot^\'itllstanding, wIumi we ran to th(^ (xlge of our 
 fioe, we beheld from a ridgc^ of ice the mountains and glaciers
 
 lI'.'U 77/7-; (JtiEAT Willi t: XOHTH 
 
 of tho ni\"stcrioiis land. Its valleys sci'incd to our fond illumi- 
 nation clotlu'd \\i\\[ jii'c-en })a>turcs, ovvr which herds oi rein- 
 deer roamed in undisturbed enjoyment of their liberty, and 
 far from all floes. 
 
 "For thousands of years this land had lain l^uried from 
 the knowledge of men. and now its discnn'ery had fallen int(j 
 the la}) (^f a small band, themseh'es almost lost to tlic world, 
 who far from their home rc-membered the homagf due their 
 sovereign, and gave to the nev.'ly diseo\-(M'ed territ(M'y the 
 name Kaiscu' Franz Josef Land. With loud hurrahs we 
 drank to tiu^ health of (jur Emperor in grog ha-tily made on 
 di'ck in an ircni coffee-pot, and then dressed the TcfjdlhojJ 
 with flags. All cares, for the present, at least, disap'pearcd, 
 and with them the passive monotony of our li\'cs. Thei'e 
 wa> not a day, there was hardly an hour, in which this mysteri- 
 ous land did not henceforth occup\- our thoughts and atten- 
 tion." 
 
 In ( )ct()ber th(^ v(^s<cl drifted within three miles of an i-laud 
 l\"ing off the main ma-> of land. Lieutenant l\iyer lande(l 
 on it. and found it to be in latiiudc 7!*' o F X. \l wa< nanu'd 
 aft(-r Count ^^"ilcz('k, \\"ho>(' deep interest in the ex])edition 
 had won foi' him the affect i(.)n of all. 
 
 A -ccijnd winter sett!f<l ui)on the Ti [jdOnijJ iivj\ Ikm" (-rew at 
 tlii- ])oint. the chief di\'er>ion bcinu' bear hunt-. 'v.\ \\\{\r\\ no Ic-s 
 tlian sixty-sc\-en bear- were killed. ( )n tlie iOth of March. 
 bS7 b Pa\'er nuide a ])reliminary sledo-(> journey, the object of 
 which w;i- to delei'mine the ])()-ition and u'eneral rehitions of 
 the neAv land. A large -ledo-e wu- u-eil and AVa- ei|ui|)])e(l for 
 a week : ii carried an exl ra (plant ii y of ])i'o\"i-i()n-, v/hjeli Avere 
 intended to form dc] )o1-, for the moi'e exteiid.cd -ledii'e journey 
 coutemplateil for latef on. d'hirly-nine |")ound< oi Imrd bread, 
 tix'e pounii< of ])e!n!nic;tn, .-ixteen ])ound- of boijeil 'h'^ef, 
 one pound (if pen— au-au'e. Mne-h:df pound of -;ilt ;ind ])eppi-r. 
 -ix pounds of rice, two ])oimd.- of grits. li\-e poimdsof chocijiate,
 
 /M}'/;/;".S HLEUGE JOURNEYH 291 
 
 fn'C gallons of rum, one pound of extract of meat, two pounrls 
 of coudensi'd milk, and (>ight gallons of alcohol. The party 
 consist(Hl of Payer and .six men, with three dogs. 
 
 Intense cold and violent snow-storms, the thermometer 
 f;uling as low as —59°, caused great suffering to the men from 
 frost 1 )ites. This frightful temperature was experienced Alarch 
 14. On tliat day Payer with a Tyrolese mountain climber 
 stood on the summit of the precipitous face of the Sonklar- 
 (dacier, whose broad terminal front overhangs the frozen 
 l_)ay of Xordenskjcdd Fiord. 
 
 After making deposits of provisions, the party were obliged 
 to return to the ship, after an absence of five days. 
 
 On 3,Iarch 20, Lieutenant Paycn- with ten men and three 
 dogs started on a more extc^nded journey of thirty days. 
 The cc|uipment for this second trip consisted of : — 
 
 lbs. 
 the large sledge 1.50 
 
 the i)rovisi(jns, including packing 620 
 
 the dog slcMlge ?u 
 
 the tent, sleeping l)ags, tent-poles, and Alpin(> stock 320 
 
 alcohol and rum 128 
 
 fur coat:s and fur gloves 140 
 
 instnunents, rifles, ammunition 170 
 
 shovel, 2 c(joking-macliin(^s, drag-ropes, dog-tent, etc. 
 
 I^acli of the four sack's of ])ro\'isions — calculated for sev(Mi 
 days and ><'ven men — contained fifty-one pounds of l)oiled 
 beef, forty-eight pounds of bread, eight pounds of pemmican, 
 scvn jiounds of bacon, two pounds of extract of m(_^at, four 
 ])!>unds of condensed milk, two pounds of coh'ee, four pounds 
 of chocolate, se\'en pounds of rice, xhvov ])ounds of grits, 
 oi;;' |)()un.l of salt and ]^e])])er. two pounds of ])ea-saus;ige, 
 four ]M)unds of sugar, Ix^sidcs a rc-ei've l)ag with twenty ])oun4s 
 of bread. Boiled beef w;!s taken as food for the dogs, and it
 
 202 THE GREAT WIHTK yOllTII 
 
 was hoped that game would sup])leincnt tho ucucral rations. 
 
 From ahiKjst the first hour violent blizzard.-, intense 
 cold, and the uneven condition of the icc' made the journey 
 disheartening and laborious. 15}' .V])ril 1 the_\- penetrated by 
 Cape Ilausa int(j a ne\vl\- discovered passage, covered with 
 heavy ice, t(.) which Payer gave the name of Austria Sound. 
 B\' the 7th of April they advanced into Piawiinson Sound, 
 over a track between hummocks some of wliich were forty 
 feet high, the depressi(jus Ijotween them filled with de(_'i) la}'ers 
 of snow. 
 
 The noble mountain forms and mighty glaciers of Crown 
 Prince Piudolf Land could be seen in the distance, i^u'suing 
 their course in a \\'estei'ly direction they reache(l II(_)h(adohe 
 I-land the next da\', where the expedition encampe(l. and the 
 party di\'ided. the smaller continuing to the north f(jr tlie 
 puri)ose (jf examining the glaeicrs (jf Piudolf Land. 
 
 A disaster occurred the first day after their de])arture which 
 nearly ])roved fatal to the success (jf thcii- undertal^ing. 
 While crossing the Middendorf glacier, the snow gave way 
 beneath a sledge, which ])reci])it atetl one of the men. Zanino- 
 vich by name, the dogs and >le(lg('. into a cre\'as.-e. ■"l-Vom 
 an unknown de])th," writes Payer, "I heai'd a man"- \'oice 
 mingled with the howling o{ dogs. \\\ this was lhe im])re.-sion 
 of a moment, while I felt my><'lf dragii'cil backwards by the 
 ro])e. Staii,'U'('rinii' back. an<l seeing the dark aby>> l)(-n(aih 
 me. I could not doubt ihat I ,-hould be ])reci])i;at ed into it {he 
 next in-tant. A wonderful Prox'idencc arre-ted t!ic fall of 
 the >le(l^-c: at a d<'i)th of about thirty feet it -nick fa<t 
 lictwccn the -ide- of ihc crc\-a--c. just a- I wa- brinu' di'aiiLi'ed 
 to ihc cdnv of the aIi\"-> by it- weiu-llt. 'b!ic -JimIlic ka\-ing 
 jammed it -elf in. I Ia>' on my .-tomach clo-e In i !;c ;,wtul brink, 
 the rope which altachiMl me to the -Icdti'e ti^lifly -1 rained, and 
 ciitiinLi- di-c]) into the -now. I'lw -ituatinn wa- all tin- tii'irc 
 dreadful a.- I. the only per-on pn-eiit acrii-t : mied to thf
 
 PAY Eli's SLKl)(;i': JoniNKYH 2*»3 
 
 (lan.n'ors of <2;l:i('i('i's. lay 1h(>r(^ unable^ to stir. When I cried 
 down to Za!iino\'icli that I would cut the I'ope, he iini)lored me 
 not to do it, for if I (hd, the sled<;-e woiihl turn over, and he 
 would ))(> killed. For a time I lay (juiet, considering what was 
 to be done. I^y and by it flashed into my memory, how I and 
 my guide had once falkni down a wall of ice in the Irtler 
 Mountains, eight hun(lr(>d feet high, and had escaj^cnl. This 
 inspires I mr with confidence to venture on a rescue, desperate 
 as it seemed und(>r the circumstancc^s. Orel had now come 
 u]), and, although \\c had never been on a giaci(>r before, this 
 gallant ofHccM' daunt It^sly advanccnl to tlu> edge of the cre- 
 vass(\ and laying himself on his stomach, looked down into 
 tlu> abyss, au.d cried to me, 'Zaninovich is lying on a ledge 
 of snow in the crevasse, with ])r(>cipiccs all round him and the 
 dogs are still attached to the traces of the sledge, which has 
 stuck fa_st.' I called to him to throw me his knife, which \\v 
 did with such dexterity, that I was able to lay hold of it 
 without diliiculty, and as the only means of rescue, I severed 
 the tract' which was fastened round my waist. The sledge 
 made a shoi't turn, and then stuck fast again. I immediately 
 s]n'an.g to my feet, dr(nv off my canvas boots, and sprang over 
 tlie crevasse, which was about ten feet broad. I now caught 
 sight (tf Zaninovich and the dogs, and shouted to him, that 
 I would run back to riohenlohe Island to fetch men and ropes 
 for liis rescue, and that I'cscued he would be. if he could con- 
 ti'!\'e for four hours to keep himself from b(>ing f]-oz(>n. I heard 
 lii- ansAN'cr : "fate, Signore, fate ])ure!' and tlu^n Orel and 
 1 disap])ea,red. Heedless of the cri^vasses which lay in oiu' 
 path, or of the bears which might attack us, we ran down the 
 glacier back to Cape Schrott(M-, six miU^s off. Only one 
 thought ])ossess(nl us — the rescue of Zaninovich, tlu^ jewel 
 and ])ri(le of our i)ai'ty, and the I'ecoA'cry of our invaluable 
 stoi'(> of pro\'isions, and of the book containing our journals, 
 ^\'hic]l, if lost, could ne\-er l)e re])lace(l. Hut ex'iai ai)art
 
 21 '4 
 
 THE on EAT WHITE yOTHTI 
 
 from my pfrsoiial fcclin^u for Zaiiinovifli, I kociily fflt the rc- 
 l)i'oach('> lo which I >houl(l Itc ('X])o>c<l ol' iucautiou> trav(-lh;i,L!,' 
 oil jilacici's : and it ,u'av(' uic no c()mf()rt to thiiilc that my 
 l)r('\ious cxiXTiciiccs in this l^ind of tra\'cllin<i' (jvcf the (iiacicrs 
 t)f ( ir<'<-nlan'l a])])('are(l to ju>tily m\' ])r(jc('C(linii-. Stuni;' 
 with tlioc refit'Clions, I ])rc.->(Ml on at the toj) of my -])c('(h 
 l('a\'ina: Orel far behind me. Bathed with pei'spira-tion, I 
 threw off my Ijird— kin <i,arments, my licjots. my ,iilove,-, and 
 my >hawl, and ran in m}' -toekings thr(ju<ili the deej) >now. 
 After ])as.--in,u-the lat)\'rinth (jf icel)or,tis I saw tlie ]'(jck\' jjyi'anhd 
 of ('a])e Sehrottei' hefore me in the <listance. Idie -ucce-s 
 (A my \-enture dependi'd on the w(nitlier. If snow (h'i\'in<j; 
 should >ei in. and the f(j<M])rints shoiild Ije ohhterated. it 
 would he imi)o>sihle U) find II(jlienlohe Island. All around 
 me it was fearfully hjnely. l-^nc(jm])a>-ed hy <ilaeiers, I was 
 ah.-olutely alone. At last I saw Klotz emerji'e from l)ehind 
 an icdieru' at sfjme distance off, a.nd thouuii I continiie(l to 
 shout his name till I almost reached him, 1 failed t(.) rou-e 
 him fi'om hi- usual reverie. When at last he >aw mehrealh- 
 le--ly pu.-liinLi' ot!, scarcely clothed, and constantl\' calliii,u'. 
 hi- -ack .-lipped fi'om his Ijack. and he s1are(l at me as if he had 
 lo-t hi- -en-es. Wdien the har<ly son of the mountains 
 came to umler-tand that Zaninovich witli the -Icdu'e was 
 hui'ieil ill llic cre\"a--e. he he^ali t(J Wee]), in lii- .-implicily nl 
 heai'i lakinu' the Maine of whal had ha])])ened on ihm<cjf. 
 He wa> -o atiitaleil and di^turheil, that I made him i)romi-e 
 ttiat lie Would do him-clf no mi-chief, and tlu'ii. jeax-iim' liim 
 to hi- mooily silence. I ran on auain towards the i-laiid. It 
 -ecmeij a- ii' 1 .-lioiild iie\'er reach ( 'ajie .^chi'olter : wiili head 
 hcni down I ti'udii'eil on, couiitinsi.' m\' -tcp- throiiLih i!ie deep 
 -now : when 1 rai-ed ii aLi'ain. aftej- a linle lime, ii w,--- alwa\'s 
 It;e -atiie li!ac!x -jiol 1 hat 1 -aw on the di-1ant hori/on. At 
 la-! I came near it, -aw the tent, -aw -onie diark -jiot- creep 
 out of it, -aw them uallier toLiether, and then run (lown the
 
 CAl'E FLIGELY 295 
 
 sno\v-sl()]»f\ Those \V(M-(^ tho friends we h;ul left behind. A 
 few words of exi)lau;ition, with an exlioi'tation to abstain from 
 idle lamentations, wei'e enou<;'h. They at onc(^ detached a 
 second rojx' from the large sledge, and got hold of a long 
 t(>nt-i)()le. Meanwhile I liad rushed upon the cooking- 
 machine, (luickly melted a little snow to ([uench my raging 
 tlhrst. and then we all s(>t off again — Haller, Sussick, 
 Lnkinovich, and myself — to the Aliddendorf glacier. Tent 
 and ])rovisions were left unwatched ; we ran back for three 
 hours and a half : fears for Zaninovicli gave such wings to my 
 steps, that my companions were scarcely aide to keep uj) with 
 m(\ J-]ver and anon, I had to stop to drink some I'um. At 
 the outset, we met Orel, and rather later Klotz, both making 
 for ('a|)e Sclu'otter, Ivlotz to remain Ix'hind th(M-e, and ()r(d 
 to retui-n with us at once to Middendorf glacier. When W(» 
 came iuncnig th(^ icebergs under C'aj'x- Ilabermann, I picked 
 \i\). one by one, the clothes I had thrtjwn away. Reaching 
 the glacier, we tic'd ourselves together with a r(.)pe. Cloing 
 before th(> rest 1 a])])roached with beating heart the ])lace, 
 where the sledge liad (lisap])eare(l four hours and a half ago. 
 A dark abyss yawned b(>for(^ us : not a sound issue(l from its 
 di']itli-^, n.ot even when I lay on the ground and shouted. At 
 last I heard tlie whining of a dog. and then an unintelligible 
 answer fi'(»m Zaninox'ich. Ilaller was (juickly let d(nvn by a 
 r()])e : he found him >till living, but almost fi'ozen, on a IcMlge 
 of >U()\\ fort\' feet down the creva-se. Fastening himself 
 and Zaii!Uo\'ie!i to the ro])(>, they were drawn up after great 
 exertion, .v >torm (if u-rcetings salute*! Zaninovicli. stiff and 
 s])eern!c>s though he was. when he ai)peare(l on the surfaee 
 of the glaciei'. I iH'rd not add that \\v gave him some rum 
 to -timuhite hi> vital energies. It was a noble proof how duty 
 and discipline a-~ei't t hcm-i'h-e^. ('\-en in <\n-\\ situations, that 
 the fir-t woi'^i ijf thi< >:;ilor. >a\"ed from bcinLi' frozen to de;it!i. 
 wa.- iKJt a comjjlaint. but thank<. accom])anied with a request
 
 200 THE CHEAT WHITE yoUTIf 
 
 that I would ])ar(l()n him if h('. in order To save liiiii-clf from 
 bciii^' frozen, had x-enturcd To (h'ink a ])orTi(.)n of Tlic rum, 
 which had fallen down in iTs eas(> with the sled<ic to hi^ ledjic 
 of .-now. Haller au'ain descended, and fasTened The (hjgs To a 
 roi)(\ The ch-ver animals had freed Themselv(-s frtjni their 
 tracer in some inex])licahle way, and had s])run<i' To a narrow 
 ledt>e. where Hallei' found Them, close Tc) wh('rc Zanino\'ich 
 had. lain. It was a>toni<hin,u' how (juickly thc'V discerned {he 
 daii.Licr of the position anil how ureal wn- their confidence in us. 
 They had >le])t the whole time, a- Zanino\'ich afterward- to!. I 
 us. and he had carefully avoideil touchin^u' Them lest t!ie\' 
 should fall down dee])er into The ^.thyss. We rh'ew them up 
 witli some difficuby, ami They fsavc ('X])i'( s-ion to Their joy, 
 fir>t l>y rollinu.' Themselves vi,uT)r(^u>l\' in Tin- sru^w, and Then 
 hy lifd^in.ii (jur hand.-. W'c then i-ai-ed Thdh'r hy the ro])e 
 sonic Ten feeT hisi'lier Than tlie ledu'e (in which Zanino\'ich had 
 lain. >o ThaT he mi.ii'liT he ahle To cut The i'oi>e< which fa-tened 
 the loading of The firmly \\-edo'ed in -1(m1u'c. .Vt Thi- moiiKuT, 
 ( >rel arri\'e(l. and wiTh his h(-l]) we raised one hy one the 
 articles with which the sledue was loadeil. It wa- tf'U o'clock 
 li(-fore we were co;i\-ince(l thaT ^ve had lo-T nothing' (jf any 
 importance in The cre\-a.<-e."" 
 
 ■ ( )ii A])i'il 12, ]S74, Pa\'er and his co!n])anion,< aTTaiiied 
 theii- !arttie.-T north, ^2" .V liorTh latitude : on t!i;it day they 
 stood on a ])romoiilory ahout one thou-aiid h-et hiuh, to which 
 the name of ( 'ajie j-'liuejy wa- ,ui\'en. 
 
 ■'iiudoh' Land -till -treiehe(j ill a nort lieast erjy direction."' 
 wi'iti'- hayer, "toward- a <':i])e, ('ape Sln^rard (»~;,(irne— - 
 though it Wa- im])o--ihle to (jetei'mine it> furtJMi' eour-e and 
 conne.'t ion." 
 
 In the di-tanl north, lilue mountain ranue- indicated 
 ma--e- of l;md and to the^c the name- nf KIiill ( )-car Land 
 
 •and Pet er|||;ii|!| P;nid were lii\-rli. ■■Pl-oud.iy W^ ;)i;Ulted the 
 
 Au-t ro-nuni!;iri:in l!a'i." eontinue,- l',a\-ei', "foi- tiie hr-1 time
 
 HOME 21)7 
 
 ill tlio liigh Xorth. A document we enclosed in a bottle and 
 d(>])osited in a ck^ft of rock." The return to the ship was ren- 
 d(^re(l doubly hazardous by the insecurity of the ice, and tlie 
 increasing water holes. 
 
 The results of the journey may be summed up as follows — 
 Payer foimd the newly discovered country to be about the 
 size of Spitzl:)ergen, and consisting of two large masses, 
 A\llcz(>k Land to the East, and Zicliy Land to the west, inter- 
 sected by numerous fjords and skirted by many islands. 
 Austria Sound divid(\s the two main masses of land and extends 
 to 82° X., where Rawlinson Sound forks off to the nortlu^ast. 
 The mountains reach a height of two thousand to three thou- 
 saufl feet ; glaciers abound in the ravines, and even the islands 
 are cov(H-ed with a glacial ca]). 
 
 A third sledge journcn' was undertaken by Lieutenant 
 Payer on April 29 to explore a large island named after 
 ^vPClintock. 
 
 The momentous day, Alay 20, on which the TcgetthaJJ was 
 abandoncnl, came at last. Three boats wer(^ selectcnl b}' the 
 return expedition. Two of tlu^se w(n'e Xorwc^gian whale- 
 boats, twenty feet long, five fe(^t broad, and two and one-half 
 deep : Tlu^ tlnrd was souK^what smaller. 
 
 The hummocks rendei-ed iho'ir advance^ discouragingly 
 slo^v. It was necessary to ])ass ovov th(> same short distance 
 numy timers in t\\v com-se of a day, and after two montlis of 
 ind(^scril)^d)l(> (efforts, \ho distance^ r(\ache(l ])y thv ]^arty was 
 not more than tv.'o (^icrman mil(\s. An occasional l^ear, 
 sliot by tlu^ UKMi, I'cstorc^d t!u^ waning strength and courag(\ 
 but not until August bt, did tlu^ wc^lcome sound of the o])en 
 w:it(>r r(>acli thv'w (»ars. and in 77° 40' north latitude, th(\v 
 launched th(Mr boats. Xin(^ da\'s later they ^\'(a■e picked u]) by 
 Russian fishermen olT the coast of Xova Z(nnbla.
 
 C'HAPTEJ^ X\'l 
 
 B'lron A. ]]. xnn X()ril"n-kj''il(l. — First vnyaszc iSoS. — Accoiii- 
 ]);uii('s suc'cc'lina; Swn li-!i cxpfMlif-Kjii.-. — SpitzhcrKcii. --\'()yage 
 (jf Snjia. - ls(;s. — \()r(lc]i>ki()'ifr> joiu'iify tn (;i-c<'iilaii(l. — 
 \'()ya,Li''' of 1 he /•'o///^///. -Atlcni])! To j'cafli tlif Pole liy I'ciiulccr 
 .-li-'iav. — rn.'-xjM'ftcil (ii-c()urau"ciiiciil> and (li.-a>ior>. — A'ovacc 
 of llic Prnri n. — 1^7"). — l"hc Kai'a >'~^ca. —- Journey r(-])cat('(l the 
 following year. — In tin' Y im r. — X'o^-agc of the V(<ja. 
 
 Tin: caroci' of P)aroii A. I'], voii XordoiiskjoM is ono of tho 
 ]n()<t <li.-tiiiuuisli('d in Arctic history. .l)orn in flclsina-foi's, 
 I'inhuii!. X'o\-o!iil)Ci- IS, \)<:\2. ho learned at an early aue the 
 thrill of ad\'entiire and the joys of research while accoin]")an}'- 
 inu,- hi> di,-i inii'iii-hed fatlior on hi- niineralouical tours \\\ tlu* 
 Pi'al ^Fountains. After .u'l'aduatinu,' at Hel^iu'ilors in PS.l?, 
 Xoi'den-lvj(")ld wa.- hiin.-elf a])])ointed a j)roh'->oi' of inineralou'y 
 at Stockholm. P)aj'oii X'orden-kj'dd'^ scientific interest in 
 ])olar I'o-earch l)eii,'ari as early a- hS,")S. Avhoii lie af'coin))anied 
 ( Itlo To, ■ell, chief aeoloi;i-t of Sweden, who .-ailed on the Frith- 
 i'(ij) i'or Soit /I ler'ien. Thi- wa- the Pe.uinninu' of a -eries of 
 Swei!i-h exj)e(jit ion-, that co\'ei'e(l a (jUaiter of a centur\'. in 
 Avhich Xoi-den-kjrild hadt a ino-t vahiahle and acti\a' part. 
 Tw'M niMioh- were .-pent on the we-t coa-t of S])it zheru'en, 
 in dred'j.inii' i!m' -ea. -tudx'inu' the landi foi'niation and its 
 1 ,< it anical au' I uiacia! condini m-. 
 
 .Xord' 'n-kirild"- i-hief cimt .riliut ion to .-cience on tlii< expi'di- 
 tii)M \\',-i- '.'■•'■ di-i'( )\'ery of a fo--il-i leal'iu'j,' !'ock Hi carlioll- 
 ifet'ou-- lorniat i( iii<. 
 
 .\noti;cr p'Urney li(-yond the .\rctic circle wa- undertaken 
 I iv To'vij in j-^'i I. foi a nioiv t ill ii'ouiii! -in'\"(>' and -tud\' of t he 
 n:itiiral id-;ory and ueoiouy of S[)it /hei'ucn. ( )n t hi.< j(.>urney, 
 
 2HS
 
 sprrzBERGEjy 209 
 
 'I\)r(41, XordcMiskjokl and P(>torscn lUKkM'took a boat journey 
 to JIink)i)en Strait and kitor visitcnl the coast of Xorth(^a.st 
 Lanck Passing Xorth (,'a]M^ and visiting Sevini Lskmds, 
 they reached their farthest, 80° 42' X'., xVugust o, at Phipps 
 Iskimk 
 
 Prince Oscar Land was reached a week later, and from a 
 mountain two thousand feet high near Ca]x; A\'re(k>, two 
 islands coukl be secai in the (hstance, to which were given the 
 names of (,'hark^s XLI and Drabanten. Pushing their way 
 east of (_\ipe l^kiten, tlic ice conthtions forced tlieir r(^turn. 
 
 In 1863 Xordenskjold again visited Spitzbc^rgen, and again 
 in 18(54, when he was ])kiced in charge of the SwecUsli expedi- 
 tion, and was accompanied by Duner and INIalmgren. In a 
 smaU boat of twenty-six tons burck^n, and ])rovisi()n(Hl for l(\<s 
 than six months, they entered Safe fIarf)or at the entrance of 
 the magnificent Ice Fiord. Ahcv rounchng the s()uth(>rn cape 
 of S])itzbergen, tli(^y entered Store Fiord, and visitcnl Edges 
 Land and L'arentz Land. After entcM'ing Ilelis Sound and 
 asceiKhng White r\Iountain, they again roun(k'd Soutli Cape 
 with the intention of folk)wing the W(\st coast as fai' north as 
 the ice would ])ermit. On this journey whik^ off Charles 
 Foreland, they r(\scued somc^ shipwr(H'k(Ml sailors, whose v(>s- 
 s(4s had become beset off Seven Islands, and who had jour- 
 ne\'ed in open boats some two hundred miles in fourtcnm 
 days. An inunediat(> return, was thus made n(H'(^ssary, but 
 the I'csults of tlie sununer's work was a ma]), executed by Xor- 
 deiiskjr)ld and Duner, which delineates Spitzbergen with 
 gr(>at accui'acN'. 
 
 In 1St)8 the Swcdisli (^x])edition had for its ()])jective ])oint 
 tlu^ Pole. 4'hc Sojla was chosen for this })ur])ose and com- 
 mandcMl by Captain (Count) F. W. von OtAo]\ with Xor- 
 dcnskj()ld as scicaitihc chi(4. Smeerenberg l'>ay at tlu^ north 
 end of SiMtz])ergcn was decided uj)on as a ])lace of rt^ndiwous 
 and from tliis point the Sojia made two attem})ts for a high
 
 :!U0 
 
 THE (iUKAT nillTE yOUTII 
 
 northiii.ii'. In the second slie "\\'a> rewarded liy reacliino; on 
 >ei)lenil)er 1!). ISIIS, sT 42' X.. and M'' oO' K.. at that time 
 the t'ai'the>t n(jrtli attained by any >\\\\). A tliird attempt 
 to ])ush the Siilid throu,iih the ini])enetraljle pack I'esulted in 
 her heconiin.u' (Usahled and neces>itated the retin-n of the 
 ex])(-ihtion to S\ve(h'n. 
 
 In ls7() X(jr(lenskj()ld made a journey to Tlreenland. ac- 
 C'om])anied 1)\" Dr. Ber,u<i:r(-n. the note(l ])rofes.-or of h(jtany at 
 Lun(L The object of the exi^cfUtion wa> to ])enetrate the 
 tm(-\])lored interior from a jioint at the northern arm of a 
 dee}) inlet calle(l Auhut.-i\'ik Fiorth >ome s!xt\" nhle- -oiith of 
 the (nst'ha!\<i,in^<i; uiacicr ;it Jakol i-ha^'en and two iuim.h'ed 
 and fort}' north of tlie glacier at C;o(hhaab. He c(^mmenced 
 his inhmd journey on tin' lOtii of July. hje-ide> Dr. Tjero'o-fcu, 
 he wa> a.--i>ted liy two Eskimo-. l)iU" tlie (h-liearteniiiii; 
 <lif[ieulti('- ^)i trav('l over tlie inland ice of (Ireenland. cau-ed 
 by the >low m(A'(-ment of the <i'lacier>. whicli produce cha-nis 
 and cleft- of alnujst bottomless depth, .-oon ca.u.-eil the ])ai't\' 
 to abandon their >l(>(l!j.(', and latei' the two nati-\-e> rt-fu-eil 
 t(j ])r()ceed. Undaunted by tlu'ir de-ertion. Xoi'deii.-~kj(")ld 
 and Dr. P)er,u-ii-i'en continued their ('Xphirat ion- alnue -awA 
 aih'anec(l thirty mile< o\'er the p.'laciers to a hei'zlu of twenty- 
 two huiidreil fe('t abii)\-e the <ea. 'hi(- of the nio~i im])ortant 
 result < of this I'emarkable joiu'iiey was the di.-co\'ei'y of two 
 meteorite-, the laru'e-t e\-er known. 
 
 In I'^Tl Xorden-kjiiM auain -et out for Si)itzb('r,u'eii. IIi< 
 objcci wa- to reach the Pole by reindei-r— led!j.iiiu-. Sailinii' 
 ill the -liij) I'nll.i ni commanded by Licut'-nant I'alander of 
 the SweiTHh X'a^'}'. and accompanied liy two coii\-oy<, the 
 (i'hi^l,,, and ()n!:h .\<ln,n. \\n-y reached .Mu--el F.ay, ai'd tliere 
 e-t abji-ljci 1 wintei' (|Uai'ler-. In an attemipt to I'eiui'ii. the 
 conx'oy- \\-ere be,-et ill a \'ioleii; -torm. Fnable to extj-icate 
 
 t!ieiii^el\-e~: ;,ilil Hot beiliLi ] )ro\-i-~iol led for^'illter 1 he (a'CW-. 
 
 iiiiiii! 'criiiLL' tor' \--i lii'ee nii'ii, were -iiildiaily forced u])ou 
 .\ordeii-kioli I's l)ariy for I'uel and -iipplies.
 
 VOVA(,f-: OF THE " PniJIEM" 3ol 
 
 To (li.stril)Ut(' food int(Mi(l(Ml for twenty-four ])('rsotis ;imoii<i; 
 a ]);irty of sixt}'-s('\-cn was u serious ])rol)leni, and was only 
 aceomplislied \)y reduciu<i; tlie rations of all one-third. Ilai'dly 
 had this blow fallen ujxju th(> pros])ects of the e\pe<lition, 
 when they were visited hy fc^ur men with the overwhehnin,ii- 
 news tliat six walrus-vessels had been frozen in at Point drc}' 
 and ('ap(> \\'el('onie. I^y hunting it was hoped that the fift\'- 
 ('igiit unfortunate m(ni would manage^ to avoid starvation 
 unlil the first of De('enil,)er, after that their only salvation 
 rested with the g(>nei'osity of Xoi"denski(")]d. The only relief 
 to th{> a])p;dlin<>; situation was in the fact that a Swedish 
 colony had that year woi'ked a i)hos])liatic <le))(jsit at ("ape 
 Thorsden. Ice Fiord, and the manager after abandoning the 
 ^^'()rk had I'cturned to Norway, leaving l)eliind him a consider- 
 able amount of stores. ( 'a])e Thorsden was distant two 
 hundi'ed miles, but seventeen of the wah-us-hunters deter- 
 mined to undertake it. These men succeeded in reaching the 
 dei)ot, where an ;nn])le sup})ly of all the necessaries of life 
 awaited t liem — including a house, fuel. ]:)reserve(l and dried 
 vegetables, and, fr{>sli i)otatoes. riuddling in one room, living 
 on <alt-beef and ))ork, ratlier than go to the exei'liou of avail- 
 ing Them-el\'(\< of tti(^ am])Ie diet at hand — these men were; 
 attacked 1)>' -cui'vy and not one survived the rigours of the 
 winter. At Mu.<<el I^ay the food condition- wi're de])loi'able. 
 but wer'c eked out by tli(> utilization of I'eindeei' moss mixed 
 with rye flour, wliich ]iroduced a \-er\' bitter bread. 
 
 Thi< s;;crifice of th(^ food of the reindeer gi'eatly cri])])!ed 
 Xofdeii,~kj()ld"s cherished pUuis for \n< s])i'ing joui'ne\'<, and 
 to add t(; hi- di>a])pointments. the i'einde<'r them<el\-e- wei'e 
 cai'ele-sly alloweil to escape by the LaiJjts dui'ing a \'iol''nt 
 snow->torm. A fortunate opening of the ice early in No- 
 vi'iubei- allowed two \-essels to e-ca]")e, and rhe-e \-('<-el- took 
 tlie ci'ew.v of the four others. 
 
 Tlie Arctic night was passe(l by the ex])ediiion in making
 
 THE CHEAT WHITE yoimi 
 
 scientific r)!).<f'rvat ion.--. (lr('(l,a,in<i: under tlic ice. anrl in mental 
 and t'ii>'-ical exefcise. In .-j)ite of every i)recaiition against 
 tlie di'eade<l foe, scur\'\' Itroke out among the men, but was 
 overcome under a strict diet reiiime. 
 
 In >])ite oi' the disastrous los.- of his reindeer and the de- 
 pleted -tate of his stores an<l provisions, Xordenskjold at- 
 teni])te.l hi- noi'tlieru journey the h^howing s])rinu'. At 
 Se\-en L-laiids he v.'as sto])ped h}' the ice, hut in s])ite of this 
 di<ai)];e)!ntnient he concluded to visit X(;rth i:^ast Land h)r 
 the ])ui'j)o>e of ii;eogra])hical I'cseari'li. A jotu'iK'y oi live da\'s 
 o\-er imi)a~<aljle hununocks resulted in hi.> making Cajjc 
 Platen - and later ( )tter hdaud. 
 
 I'he incre;i>f'd dangei-s of trav('l and the })r('sence of water 
 holes deterniine(l him to ahaiidcju the coa.-t route and strike 
 acro-s the inlaiidi ice. Thi> arduou- journex' was over haril- 
 l)acked hlindinu' while .-ikjw. "glazed and ])oli-hed,"' he wi'ite<, 
 "so that we miuht have thought ourseh'c- to he advancing 
 o\'er an un-urj)a>>;d)ly faultless and -jjo'Ic-s fiooi' of whii<' 
 niarMi'." l-iiinding -tf)rins. hlizzards, oi' ice fog-, niai'ked e;ich 
 ,-tep ()\ tlieii' fifteen day.--' journey. Snow liri(Ju'es co\-ei'ed 
 t re.'icherou- chasms, -ome (.if v/hicli we>-c forty f'^et in de])l}i. 
 On .)une l'). t hey de.-cended into IliuloiX'U Sti'.iil at \\';d;!en- 
 hei'U' l)ay. and finall\' the party reached Mus-rj litiy ;ifter 
 an a! i-'tc-e of -ix1 y da>'.-. 
 
 In tiic e;ii'ly >um!ii('r. they had the gooij h)i'1une 1o he 
 \'i-ited hy Air. Lcioh Smith, the \-eter:in Arctic nax-iu'ator 
 and .-cjciihi-t . in hi- j)ri\';iie _v-ac!ii iJiunit. tlirouiih who,-e 
 U'(iiero-!ty the expciiiiion Was lilierai]\' >U))])!i('d with fi'e>h 
 j)ro'.'i-io'i-, wild! remo\-(-d 1 he pr-ni linu: anxiet y lor t hi- future. 
 
 In I'^T") \ord.'ii-f.,j("iid tiu'iied, hi,- ;tt'enlion to the ]")o-<i- 
 I 'il! I y oi U': x-m.-ihuu: t he -c;-- ;il(Mm l he noi-i hern coa-t of Sihei-i;). 
 Thi- rou'i' !';id ;ih'c,-idy in en opi'ii^'d 1 >>' O.-tpt.-iin Win-ojus 
 oi' >M:!d''r!:ii;'i. who in I s7 1 . ! ^7o. .-Uid l^T'i. ope]|.-(| the w;iy 
 to t rade h'i'i wi'i n JJiropc ;Uid the mout h oi t lie '^ eni.-ei hiiver.
 
 VOVAdH OF Till': '• PUOl-EX"' -lO-l 
 
 Xor(l(^askj()l(l sailed from Tronisoc^, in tho Proren, Juno, 187"), 
 aiul .suc't'c'ssfully iuivi.u;atin,i!; the Kara Sea n^aehed an exeelleut 
 har])our on the eastern side of th(> nioutli of the \'enisei, to 
 which he gave the nani(> of Port Dickson, in honour of Air. 
 Oscar Dickson, of (lothenburg, for many 3'ears the hl:)cral 
 sui)])orter of the Swcnhsh ex])e(htions. 
 
 To (l(>monstrate that the Kara S(>a had not been more free 
 of ice tlian usual in the summc^r of 1S7") and that the route 
 would be practicable another season, Xordenskjold re})eated 
 his voyage in the Yiner the following 3'ear. 
 
 His long Arctic ex{)eri(>nc(> had by this time convinced him 
 of the f(\isibility of the north(^ast ])assage. To demonstrate 
 this conviction, he cmlisted the ])atronag(^ of the king of 
 Sw'tMlen, !Mr. Oscar Dickson, and AFr. Sil)iriakoff, a Siberian 
 proprietor of vast Wf^alth, and the I'csult was the ])urchase of 
 th(^ ]'c(j(i, which was libcn'ally (Hjui])])ed for a successful expe- 
 dition. 
 
 T!ie Vc(ia had been used for whale-fishing in the north ])olar 
 sea, her n^gistt^r was thrcn^ hundi'ed and fifty-seven tons gross, 
 oi' two hundixMl and nin(ty-nine net. 
 Her diuKnisions wvvv as follows : — metres 
 
 L(nigt)i of kind o7.() 
 
 T(>ngth over (l(H'k 4:5.4 
 
 BcMim extreme^ 8.4 
 
 Dei)th of hold 4.() 
 
 She had a sixty hoi's(>-])ower (Migine, whicli recpnred ten 
 cubic f('(4 of coal ]K'V hour, developing an average spiH'd of 
 six or s(>ven knots ])cv houi". The x'cssel was a full-rig<i,'ed 
 bark, willi i)itch ])ine mas1s, ii'on wire I'igging and patent 
 reefing to]) sails: undei' sail alone she was abl(> to attain a 
 sjkmmI of nine or t(Mi knots. She cai'ried the SwcmUsIi man- 
 (»f-\\ar flag with ;i crowned "O" in the middle, .and bore fliis 
 t rium])hanlly ib.i'oughout .a voyage \\'hich stands in history 
 as the first circaunnavigation of Asia and J^uropc^.
 
 H04 
 
 THE a HEAT WHITE XOllTH 
 
 "Wltli X()i'(I(Miskj(>l(l as l(';ul(M', Licutciumt Palanden' coni- 
 maiulcM' of liu' ship, and an cificicnt staff of officers and scien- 
 tists, which inchided such men as Lieutenant Ilorgaaixl of 
 the Royal Danish Xa\'\', for siiperintinident of the nuiii'iietical 
 and nieteoi'oh)_uical work, F. R. Kj(dhnan, Ph.D., Docent in 
 ])()tany in t!ie rniversityof l'])sala, and Licnitenant (!. Bore, 
 of the Ivoyal Itahan Xa\'y, superintcMident of the liydro- 
 j2;ra])hical work, thc^ Iffy' sailed from ( i()thenl)ur^- July 4, 
 1878, in company with her convoy, the Lena. Port Dickson 
 was reached on the moi'ninii of Au<;'ust 10, and nine days later 
 ('ap(^ Ser(>ro or Chelyuskin in 77° 41' north latitude. Of this, 
 the most nortlun-n point of Siberia, Xordenskj(")l(l wi'ites : — 
 
 " W(> had now reached a lirc-at soal, which for centuries had 
 been the obj(>ct of unsuccessful stru<2,'|i>;l(^s. For the first tinu; 
 a vessel lay at anchor off tlu^ northennnost cape of the old 
 woi'ld. Xo wonder then that the occuri-ence was celebrated 
 by a display of f!a<;'s and the firin.u; of salutes, and when we 
 I'etui'ned from our excursion on land, by h'stivities on board, 
 b}' wine and toast." 
 
 "d'he noi'th point of Asia forms a low jiromontory, which a 
 ba>' divid(>s into t wo, the eastern arm projecting; a lit tie farther 
 to the north than the western. .V ridti'e of hills with u'ently 
 slo|)inii' sides runs into the land from the eastern point, and 
 appears within sijiht of the western to reach a heiLiiht of 
 thre(- hundred metres. Like the ])Iain \\\\v^ below, the sum- 
 mits of this ran,'j,'e were neai'ly ivvv of snow. ()nly on the hiil- 
 .-ides oi' ill (le<>p furi'ows exca\'at(>il by the st I'eams of melted 
 snow, and in dales in the plains, wei'c lai',i;'e white snow-field> 
 to be -eeii. A lov\' ice-foot still I'emained at mo>t plaees aloiiii' 
 the -hoi'e. \\\i\ no ulacier rolled its bluish-white ice-m.asscs 
 down tli(> moinit;!in sides, and no inl;ind lakes, tio ])ecpen- 
 dieiil;;r clilT-. no lii'ih mount.-iin summits. aa\'e any natural 
 be:nily to ih.e l;in(lsea|)e, which w.as the most monotonous 
 and the most desolate I ha\'e seen in the lliiih Noi'tli."
 
 ■ ■■.■■.'i'-ii 
 
 ■'■i! '1,. 
 
 ■■■r.\ \\ 
 
 
 i 
 
 ,4' v'.'i/'l 
 
 < ! 'I 
 
 ■, [f
 
 VOVAGIC OF THE '' VJ-JaA'' o05 
 
 On the 2.')(l the Vcgo was aii'ain stoaniiiit;- fonvard among 
 th(> fields of drift-ice. The dilliculUes of vo\'aging through 
 unknown \\'alers overhung with fogs and mists may Ijetter 
 Ik' understood 1)\' an anecdote descriljed h}' Xordenskjold, 
 wliich illustrat(>s how com])l(>tely a person may be deceived 
 hy size and (hstance of objects: — 
 
 "One can scai'cely, without having expericmced it," h(^ 
 writes, ''form any idea of the optical ilhisions, wliich are 
 pi'o.luced by mist, in regions where the siz(^ of the objects 
 wliich are visible through fog is not known Ix'forehand, and 
 thus do(\s not give the s})ectator an idea of the distance. Our 
 estimate of the distance and s'vao in such cases de])ends wholh' 
 on accident. The obscure contours of the fog-concealed 
 ol)jects themselv(\s, besides, an^ often by the ignorance of the 
 spectator converted into whimsical fantastic forms. During 
 a. boat journey in Ilinlopen Strait I once intended to row 
 among drift-ice to an island at a distance of some few kilo- 
 metres. When the boat started, the air was clear, but wliile 
 ^\'(> were em])ioyed, as l)est we could, in shooting sea-fowl 
 for dimi(>r, all was wra])t in a thick mist, and that so unexpect- 
 edly, that we had not time to take the bearings of th(> island. 
 This led to a not altog(>ther ])leasant row by guess among 
 the pieces of ire that were drifting about in rapid motion in the 
 soun.d. All exerted thems(^lves as much as possilile to get 
 sight of the island, whose beach would afford us a safe r(\-^ting- 
 idace. While thus occupied, a (hu'k l)(>i-(ler was seen through 
 th:' mist at llie hoi'izon. It was tak(Mi for the island wliich 
 \\'t> W(-re bound for, and it was not at hrst considered remark- 
 able that th(> dark boi'd(>r I'ose i'a])idl\', iuv we thought tliat 
 t';e n.ii<t Was (Ii-])(M-sing and in coii<e(juenc(> of that moi'(^ of 
 ihi' land w:is vi-ible. Soon two white snow-fields that W(> 
 had not observed beff)i'(\ ■wiM'f- s(>en on both sides of the land, 
 anil ijumediately aflei' lhi< was changed to a sea monstei', 
 re-emidini>: a walrus-head as larue as a mountain. This
 
 :i(Mj 
 
 THE (.iiKAT Willi E yoiriii 
 
 ,uitt life ;ui'l MKitidii, and finally .-;tnlv a.ll at once to the hf'ad (if a 
 (■Mniniwn walni.-. which hiy on a jtircc of ice in tlic nciglib(jur- 
 liooil of the hoat : the white 1u.-]<> foi'nic<l the snow-ficlds 
 and the dark !»r(j\\'n I'ound head tlic mountain. Scarce was 
 Thi- ihn.-ion ;ione when (^ne of the men crifMl out. 'Land ri,uht; 
 ahead — hiidi hind!' A\'e now ah saw Ix'fore us a hi'ih 
 Alpine reuion. with mountain })eaks and jilacier,-. but this t(j(j 
 sank a nioiiK'nt aftei'wanl- all at once to a ('(junnon ice- 
 border, blackened with earth. In the .-pririg of bs73 I'he- 
 huhler and I with nine men nuule a >le(lo-e journey round. 
 Xorthea.-t Laml. In the course of this journey a ji:reat many 
 be'U's were >(-i-\\ and killcMl. AMien a bear was >i'>.'n while we 
 were drauuinii' (jur sl('d,iie forAVaril, the train commonly .-tood 
 still, and. not to fri,ii'hten the beai'. all the men concealeil them- 
 selve- bc'liind the >lc(lg'e-. with the exc('])tion of the mai'ks- 
 man. who. -quattinu down in .-ome c(jn\"enient ])lacc. waited 
 till hi.- i)rey >hould c(jme sufhciently in range to be kili(NJ with 
 certainty. 
 
 "It hap])enf-d on( <■ durirm; fou'_y weather on the ice at 
 A\'ah!eiibei-g liay that the bear that was ex])ectedi and had l)eeu 
 clearly -een iiy all of u>. in-tcad of ap])r(xiching with hi- u-ual 
 ^upp'lc zi;j.'z:!U movement-, and w\\\[ hi- orduriai'y attcm])t- to 
 no-e him-clf t(; a .-ure in-iiiht into the fitne.-< of the fDreiuncrs 
 f'li' looil. ju-t a> the mark-man toolc aim. ,-pread nut Liiuaniic 
 win::'- aic! ''icw away in the form of a -mall i\'oi'\' uuil. \n- 
 oiiar time diin-ino' ilic -ame -umIuc joui'iiey wt' heai'd trom the 
 tcnl in wliicli We !V~icd the Co.ik. who wa- employed out-:de. 
 cry ou' . 'A bear! a. great b'eai' ! Xo ! a I'eiu'leer. a \"(-ry 
 
 lilbe reiu' ieer ! " The -;ime in-tant a Well-dlil'ected -hot Wa- 
 
 fii'' d. ::M'\ the liear-reiMdeer \\-a- found to be a \-ery -mall 
 fo\'. whicji ihu- peid, \\-ii!! ii- life for the houour (.f h;i.\"ing 
 \nv -o!ii" moiiKiit- playe'! the p;iri of a biLi' animal. I'rom 
 ih: -'■ ac!-o',(.-- ji !!i;;y 1 e -e(^n how liilhcuii navigation among 
 
 dd: i -;c'' l:|ii-l b.' ill ludUii iWM W^llt'i'-.""
 
 VOYAGE OF THE '• rAYrM " 307 
 
 It had l.)eeii undc^rstood that the Lena would accompany 
 the Vega as far as one of the mouth-arms of the Lena River. 
 But on the night of th(> 27th of August, while off Tumat 
 Islands, all conditions being favourable, the slhps parted com- 
 pany, after Captain Johannescai had received ord(>rs, pass- 
 ports and letters for home. ''As a ])arting salute to our trusty 
 little attendant during our voyage round tlie north point of 
 Asia some rockets were fired, on wliich we steamed or sailed 
 on., each to liis (l(\stination." 
 
 Following an eastcM'ly course, through shallow open water 
 the Tcf/a all ])ut made the Xorthi^ast Passage in onc^ season. 
 Toward the end of September, however, she was frozen in 
 off the shore of a lo\v plain or tundra in G7° 71' X., and 17;-r 
 20' A\'., iwiiv the settlenuaits of tlu^ C'huckch(N, numbering 
 about three hundred souls. The op(Mi water which to a late 
 date in tlie season had favoured tlu^ pn.)gress of the ex])edition, 
 was acc(.)unted for by th(^ volumes of warm wat(M' dischargXHl 
 into the Poln.r Sea during the summer l)y the grisat SibHM'ian 
 river systems. During the voyage, valuable natural history 
 ci)ll(H'tions were made, and the sea bottom was found to 
 aljound in animal and vegetal)le lUv. 
 
 'AYhen we wvvq beset," writes Xordenskj(")ld, "the ic(^ next 
 tli(^ shore was to(j weak to carry a foot ]);iss(nu!,'(M', and t]i(> 
 difhcult}' of reaching ilu> vessel fi'om tli(^ land Vs-itli the means 
 which the C'huckches had at their disposal was thus very 
 grrat. Wh(ai the natives obsei'V(>d us. tlua'e was in any cas(> 
 immediati'ly a great commotion among tluMU. Men. woukmi. 
 chihlren, and do,:i,'s were simmi running up ;ind d(.)Wn the Ix-acli 
 iii eager confusion : somc^ were seen driving in dog— hMlge.-, on 
 the ice street mwt the sea. They evidentl}' feared tliat, th(» 
 s])lendid opportunit \' wliich here hiy before l!i(Mn of ])urcha<- 
 ing brandy and tobacco Avoiild be lost. From the vessel W(^ 
 could s(>ewith glasses how scv.M'al attempts v.'cre made to ])Ui 
 out boats, but tlu'\' were again given u[). imlil at htst a boat
 
 308 rilE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 was got to a lano, cloar of \vv or only covered with a thin shcH't, 
 tliat ran from the sliore to the neighbotirhood of the ves-cL 
 In this a hirge skin boat was j)ut out, which was fiUcnl brimful 
 of men and women, regardless of the evident danger of na.vi- 
 gating such a boat, lieavily laden, through sha,r]), newly 
 formed ice. They rowe(l immediately to th(> vessel, and on 
 reacliing it most of them climbed without the least iiesitation 
 over tlu^ gunwale with jests and laughtei', and the cry 'anoaj, 
 aiiaaj' (good day, good da\'). 
 
 "Our first meeting with the inhabitants of this region, wIkm'c 
 we afterwards passcMJ tcai long montlis, was on both sides very 
 hearty, and formed the starting-point of a \'ei'\' friendly rela- 
 tion between th(> Cluickches and oursi^lves, wliich i-(>mained 
 tmalt(n'ed during the whole of our stay." 
 
 "On the oth of OctolxM'," continu(\s Xord('nskj(')ld, "the 
 openings between the di'ift-ice fields next (he \-essel were 
 C()ver(>d with s])lendid skating ice, of wliich we availiMl oar- 
 selves by celebrating a gay and ,io\'()Us festi\'al. The ( "huclrche 
 women and children wcm'c now se(Mi lisliing for winter loach 
 along \\\v shore. In this soi't of fishing a man, who always 
 accompani(\-< the fishing wonuMi, with an iron-shod iauce cuts 
 a hole in the ice so near t!ie shore that the distance between 
 the undei- corner of the hole and the bottom is oiilx' half a, 
 metre. J'^ach hole is used only by one woman, and that oni\' 
 for a short time. Stoo[)ing down at tlie hole, in which the 
 surhice o!' t lie watei' is kept puite clear of pieces of ice by means 
 ol an ice-si(>ve, she cndea\oui's (oallra.ct I he fish bynieansof 
 a peculiar, wondeiTuliy clatlcring ci'y. Mrsl, when a {\>\\ is 
 seen in the water, an angling line, provided with a hook of 
 bone, ii'on, oi- cop|ier, is thrown down, >li'ips of I he entrails 
 ot fl.-h bcmg employed as bait. A small nu-t !'e--long stall' 
 wiih a single or double crook in the end was also u.-ed a,- a 
 fishlnii' iniplcmcnP With tills lillle lei>P'i' the men cast uj) 
 li,-h on the ice with inca'cdible dcxterit w""
 
 #.^ v*^ 
 
 
 :;;i:
 
 liETUnX OF THE " VEGA " 309 
 
 ITuntiiiti; and exploring excursions W(^re sent out from the 
 Vci/.i with \'urying success ; as the seasons advanced the 
 natives were tlu'eatened witli the usual scarcity of food, which 
 v.'as largely relieved by the generosity of the Europeans. A 
 most careful and tliorough study was made of these natives, 
 their characteristics, mode of life, manners, speech, and 
 customs. 
 
 On July 18, the Vega, was liberated from the ice, after hav- 
 ing been ini])risoned two hundred and ninety-four days. 
 
 After a lapse of three hundred and twenty-six years, when 
 Sir Hugh Willoughby made the first attempt at a northeast 
 passage, the Vega sailed through Behring Strait, July 20, 
 1879, being the first vessel to penetrate by the north from 
 one of the grc^at world oceans to anotlier. Th(^ Vega an- 
 clKjred at Yokohama on the (n'ening of the 2d of Septem1)er. 
 
 "On our ai'rival off Yokohama," writes Xordenskjold, '"wo 
 wer(> all in good li(-alth and the Vega in excellent condition, 
 th<.)i!gh, after tlu^ h'Ug voyage, in want of s(jme minor rc^pair, 
 of (loeking. and ])ossib!y of cop])ering. Naturally among thirty 
 men soiuf^ mild n1 tacks of illness c()uld not be avoided in the 
 coui'se of a year, but no (lis(>ase had been generally prevalent, 
 and OiU- state- of liealth liad constantly been excellent. Of 
 seur\'v we luid not s(>en a trace." 
 
 Fi'om Yokohama the news of the Vega\^ success was tele- 
 graphed thi'ouglujut tbic w'(ji'ld, and the homeward journey 
 of tlie (^x]>'vlit ion, \'ia Hong Kong. Singa])ore, Suez, Xa]:)les, 
 Li-l)oM, ( 'oDenliatren, to Stnckiiolm was on(^ of trium]iliant 
 ])r()U'r('-s ; eaeli count I'y ti'ying to outdo th(> others in giving 
 a roynl welcome to the gallant ex])l(jrers. The Vega reached 
 Stockholm A])ril 24, bS8(), after a journey of twenty-two 
 thousand one hundred eightv-nine miles.
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 British expfHlition of 1^75. — Tlif .1/^/-/ and Di.^rortrij. — Captain 
 (.icorov':^. Xaivs. 1'. li. S,. Al!)crt IL. Markham, I'. R. (;. S. --Two 
 v(j\'ati'(\- of the Pn/n/ni-n. 1.s7.j-1n7(). - Scliwatka's search for the 
 l-"raiiklin ivcords, lN7.^-kN7'.). 
 
 Tnt; British iioi'th polai' cxjXHhtioti of 1S75 coinpi'ised the 
 Ahrt. a scventocii-u'un slooj), and tlie Discorrrij, orijiinally a 
 Dtindcc whah'r. Cnder the supcrvi.-ion of th(> A(hiiiral 
 
 Superiiiteiidf-iit of 
 ^' "^X the I)(K-kyard at 
 
 W Wi. Port>iuotith Sir 
 
 Leo])old !M'('hii- 
 t(_)ckj tliese s]ii])s 
 were coiiipletely 
 (A'ei'hauled, nvii- 
 foi-eed, and adniir- 
 akily outhtteil l'i»r 
 the ser\'ic(- ex- 
 ]")(■(■ 1 e d of t h em. 
 I-^aeh \-(--el was 
 -u])]")he(l with nine 
 l)oat< of \'arious 
 .-ize<. e- pe (• i a i 1 \' 
 CO n .- 1 I'uet ed for 
 .-er\dee in Arctie 
 Wat (■ r-. Croat 
 cai'e wa- exei'ci.-ed 
 
 /i,v /-'/■„.■.,•„. -yy/., /,■/..,•„'.//.,„-/„„ Av,/-,. i'l M'le^ion of of- 
 
 ' ■,;/,/,,■;,, o', .N. A'f;/'. -./■■./,'. .^. fieer- aiid_ nioii; 
 
 :;h)
 
 CArrAI.Y (IKORGK S. NARES. F. R. S. 
 
 811 
 
 and tlioii'socuil, inonil, and jihysieal qualifications \v(m-(^ strictly 
 in(}iiiro(l into. To Captain (!(H)i'ti(^ S. Xarcs, F. U.S., was 
 intrusted tli(^ connnand of the exi)cdilioii, and ( 'oniniander 
 AllxM't H. Marlvhani was ])lac(Hl second in conun.and. 
 
 On tlu^ aft(4'noon of ^lay 2\), 1875, the vessels steamed 
 out of Poi'tsniouth harbour. At Spithead tlu> sfjuadron was 
 joitu>d by the 
 Vdloroiis^ wliich 
 acconi])anie(l the 
 ships as far as 
 Disco. After a 
 stortn}' but un- 
 (^•(nitful voyage 
 th(^ ex])edition 
 stood off some 
 distance from 
 ('ap(^ Farew(dl 
 ,]{mc 25. On the 
 27th, a falling 
 tcin])(>ratur(> and 
 a })i'culiar light 
 l)lirdv along the 
 hiorizon gave due 
 notice of the im- 
 mcMli ate ]ii'ox- 
 imiiy of th(^ ice. 
 Th(> W(>ather 
 bc'iug thick and 
 foggy, extj'a pi'(*- 
 caiil ions were tak(Mi to avoid collision wit [i any icelxM'gs. Tlu^ 
 following moniiug, the high, bold, snow-ca.])p<>d hills near 
 ( ':ipc 1 )(>solal ion were sighted. Seals were now s(>en basl^iiig 
 hizil\' on the ice, and birds cointnon to th.ese r(\;rioii- lio\'(M'ed 
 r(nind the shi|)s, awakening the echoes with their gladsome 
 
 Bi/ })crnii-''.-'i<)ii iif Tlic I llusirdli'd London Xcic^. 
 Cinnmunili r A. II. Markhani
 
 ol2 THE anEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 cries. On July 1, tlic little D;inish s(^ttl(>inont of Fiskernaos 
 was ])ass(Hl, and later that of (Jodthaah. On July 4, the Ai'ctic 
 circle was crossed, and two days aftei'wai'ds i\\v (\\])(Hlition was 
 safely landed in the hay of Lievely, off (iodhav(>n; t\\c 
 Inspector and inhabitants ;i,ivin<>; a warm and hearty welcome. 
 Stores \ver(^ now taken aboard from the Valorous, and evei'y 
 ])rei)aration made to ])lunji;e inlo the fro/en north, and meet 
 the ex])ei'iences of a lonji; pt^'iod of enforced isolation. 
 
 A dense; h)S2; soon necessitated makin^i*; thesiiips hist to ice- 
 ber<;'s to await a more favoui'abh^ op])ort unity of a(h'anciii,<i;. 
 
 "Whilst attem])tin<;- to secure the ships," contilUl(^s iNFark- 
 ham, "an alarmin<>; catastroplie occui-hmI. Th(> l)oat had })eeu 
 despatcluMl containin,ti; thi'(H> men with the nec(^ssai-y im])le- 
 nuMits, such as an ice drill and anchor h)r making tlie vessel 
 fast. As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivc^red, f Ju^ 
 berg, to our horror, s])lit in two with a loud r(^i)()rt, one half 
 with («!(» of our inen on it toi)i)ling o\-er, whilst the other half 
 swayed ra])idly backwards and forwai'ds. On this latter 
 ])i(M'e was auotluM' of our mc^i, who was ot)served ^\•ith his 
 heels in the air, the violent agita,tion of tiie b(>rg having ])re- 
 ci])itated him head h)remost into a i'ent or ci'cvasse. Tlie 
 AN'ater alongside was a mass of s(H'thing h)am and s])ray, l>ut 
 cui'ious to I'clate, th.e boat with \}w third man in it was in no 
 way injured. They were ail s])eedily rescued from th.eir peril- 
 ous position and bi'ongiit on board, sustaining no furthi'!' liai'iu 
 than that inflicted by a cold bath. Their esca,})e appeared 
 mii'aculous." 
 
 ( )n the 1*.)th of July, the ships canu^ to anchor olT the Danish 
 seUlemenl of l^rdven, and here Hans Hen.di'ik. the Mskimo, 
 d()g-di'i\'( 1' and hunter, who had a.ccomj)anied so nia.n^' exp*'- 
 ditlons h) Smith Sound, wa,s engaged. I'utiing t(t >ea once 
 m(»|-(', they passed the headland of ''Sanderson, his hope," 
 the 21st of .lul\', anchoring oif L'])ernavik the following 
 morniuii.
 
 ALBERT II. MARK II AM, F. R. G. S. 
 
 310 
 
 Pibliinii; boldly throutili the luidillc ice. the ])ass:i,<i'(' throu.u'h 
 Melville l^;iy \\'as safely accomplished and the North Water 
 r(^aclied without incident. Arriving' off the ( 'ai'y Islands on 
 the nioi'nin,u' of th(> 27tli, a cache of ])rovisions was landed 
 sufficient to sustain sixty men for two months. Other dejxjts 
 \wro cached at ('a])e Hawkes and ("ape Jdnc(^ln. V)\' the 
 2sth of ,lul\' both shi])> came to anchor at Port Foulke, the 
 winter ([uartca's of Dr. Hayes in 181)0. An (-xcursion from 
 this i)oint was taken by ('a])tain Xares and ( 'ommander 
 Alai'kham to Life-boat Cove, the wintei' (juarte!'- of th(> rem- 
 nant of the Pohtris crew in LS72-bS7-") Traces of that ex]:)e- 
 diti<)n were inunediatel\' found u])on laudari,<i : various relics 
 such as a trunk, an old b;isk(M lined with tin. boxes, stores, 
 ])iece< of wood, ,<i;un-l)arrels, and odds and ends Ia>" strewn 
 about. A C(_)llecti(_)n wa.s ma/le of such articles as were of 
 an\' value for the |)ur])ose of n^turnin.u' them to th(> United 
 States. Xares and Alarkham now ])roceeded to Littleton 
 I-land in tli(> ho])(s of frndimi' an iron boat left there by Dr. 
 Ilay(-> in bSiiO. Though a careful search was niad(', no traces 
 o\ ii were discovered. 
 
 After d'ecting a cairn at the southwest end of tlii^ island on 
 a hill >ome five or six hundred feet aixA'c >ea level, from which 
 ]).)i)U ('aj)e Subine ;uid ("ape Fi'a-er could be >('('\\. the inter- 
 x'i-niim: distance na\'i,u:able oixmi water, (';i])taiii Xares and 
 ( 'otuMumder Markham c(jngratulated tliem-elves on tlie 
 pro-i)ect of I'.'ipid ])rogress. 
 
 A few houi's after tlu^ return to the shij) tlie favourab)l(> con- 
 diiions suddenly changed, and from that time on the two ship< 
 !>:ittle(i with the ice-])ack. I lufi'L'inu' the we-t >hore. and keep- 
 iiiu' ^vi'v fi'om tlie main ]):iek after leaving (';:])e Sabin(\ (";!])- 
 taiii \:i!'(-< hnrdly left the crow's-ne-t in l;i- hf'i'oic efforts 
 tii t:ike ad_\-;n!iage of (>vei'y lead and opeuin:,'. 
 
 '■ Little re>t was enjoyiM! by an\' on tlf-e liays diu'iuu' whicli 
 \\"e were subjected to the Wayv.'ard will of ttie pack." writes
 
 ol-i THE CHEAT wiiiri-: xoirrii 
 
 ( 'oinniitndcr ?*Iarklium. On the lOth (jf Au<i''i>t, lie says, 
 '■ l)iiriii,<; the last three week< we liad advanced exaetl\' niiKty 
 miles. ()!■ at the rate of ahoul four and a (lUarter a day. This 
 cannot \)v considered a ra])id rate of t ravel lin,u;, yet to accom- 
 ])lish even this necessitated a constant and \'igilant lookont.'' 
 
 Pusliing tlieir way steadil}' onward, they ])a>sed C'ajie 
 Lieber and crossed Lady Franklin ]>ay. On the 2.jth of Au- 
 <i'ust, while threading ainonji' ihe ice-floes that hordere<l the 
 coa-t. a herd of inu>k-oxen were seen l)rowsin<i on an adjacent 
 hill. A shootinr;; party was sent ashore, which sej)arateil 
 int(.) three ])arties uprni landin,<j; and ad\'anc('d ctnitiousl}' 
 towaril the spot wliere the animals w(-re seen ^razinii,: So 
 successful was the hunt that twenty-one hundrf-d and twenty- 
 f(jur p(jun<ls of fre>h meat was thcr('sult of the ■' mornin,u'"> l)a<i'."' 
 
 Tiie harlK)ur in \\iiicli the ships were ancli(jr('d ])o»f;s-ed all 
 the nec('ssary (lualifications for comfortahle winter {juart('rs, 
 so that ('a])tain Xares decifled Xu leave the iJisrorci'u and 
 proc('('d with tlu- Ah rt. J^verythin.u' ha\"i!i,L!,' 1 ler^n satisfactorily 
 arran^:ed, the Alert steamed away fr(jm l)i<r'()\-ery Ilarhor 
 on the mornin,u' of the 2(ith. ])U.shiii,!i,' lu^r caution- way along 
 the we-t shorf' of Keimedy Chamiel. " Se])leni!)(T P--t 
 (187oj," writes Connnander Afarkham, "nni-t alway> he 
 reu'arded at lea-t 1)\' all tho.-e connected \\'ith. or in1ei'e>led in, 
 Arctic research, as a red l(>tlc!' day in the aim;i.ls ol na\'al 
 enler])i'i<e. and indeed in J-Jiuli-h hi>l(jry, for on tlii> day 
 a I>riti>h man-of-war reached a higher noi'thci'n Iclitud.c tlian 
 ha<l e\'er yet Ik'CU re;iche(l Ijy any >hip ^2 ' 2-V N.. ''»2' 'W . , 
 and we had the (■xtrenie .uratificat ion of hoi<ling' the coloui's 
 at noon to ceh-l irate the e\-(-n{ ."' 
 
 After roundiii.uA 'ai)e Cuion, the coa>t treiuk'd away to the 
 A\'(--tward of north, furtlicr ad\'ance hecame inii)o--!l lie, and 
 t lie Ah rl found her-elf on the hleak >!ior('- ol' the Polar < )cean. 
 A more de-olate |)o-ition in which to pa-> the \\intei' could 
 hai'dh' he im;Uiined.
 
 ALIlFAtT II. MAHKIIAM, F.R.G.S. 315 
 
 "Witlioul ;i harbour," writes Murkhain, "or projecting 
 headland of any (les('ri])tion to })roteet our <>;oo(l ship from the 
 furious trusts that we must naturally expe-et, the Alert lay, 
 ai>parenlly, in a vast froz(>n ocean, having land on one side, 
 bul bounded on the other by the chaotic and illimitabk^ 
 ])()lar pack."' 
 
 After a ])reliminary sledge journe}- to ascertain if a more 
 sheltered hai'bour might be sought, it was decided to winter 
 in their present j^osition. Preparations were innncnliately 
 made to secure the shi]) to '-'Floe-berg Binich, " and ])lans 
 ^\■vro laid out for autumn sledge journeys to (lei)osit caches 
 of i^rovisions for the following s])ring. On the 11th of Sep- 
 tember, Markham, Parr, and Eg(>rton, accompanicxl by 
 eighteen mem, ma<le a journey nortliward along the })roposed 
 I'oiite of exploration, for the jnuposc^ of advancing two l)oats 
 to be used during future sledging o])erations. On Sc^ptemlxT 
 2.1, ('onmiander r^Iarkham, with Lieutc^nants Parr and ^lay, 
 assist (m1 by members of the crew, set out upon another jour- 
 ney ; th(>v ri^acluMl, OctolxM- 4, 82"^ .lO' X.. off ("a])e Jos(^-])h 
 Jleurv, and a de])ot was established. The return journey 
 Ix'canu^ most irksome and laborious. The snow had accu- 
 mulated to such a (l(^])th as to rcMider some of the ravines and 
 ])i'()m()n1()ries almost im])assable. A suddcm fall in tempera- 
 ture i)r()duc(Hl severe frost-bites. On the 14th of Octolx'r, in a 
 temperature of 2')° below zero, the exhausted party reached the 
 ship. 
 
 Pi'ei)arati()ns foi- the wint(>r having be(Mi finished and the 
 sledging i)arties all having returned, there was little left to 
 do but await tlu^ coming of the sun, which was a])sent one 
 huiidreil and forty-five days, during which officers and crew 
 nnite(l in k<'(M^)ing u]~» cheerful si)irits and good health l)y the 
 usual exerci-e, amusenients, and routine of daily duties. 
 
 ]\ai'ly in Mai'ch. 1S7(), an attemi)t was made to communi- 
 cate witli the Discorcnj. Li(>utenants l\gerton and Raw-
 
 ;;i(; 
 
 THE GIU'JAT WHITE XOllTIl 
 
 ^(>!i wci'c scU>c1('(l for tills joui'iicy iiiid wcfc ;i('('Oiu])anie(l hy 
 I'clcrscii, Ihc Diiiilsh Intctprctcr aiid sl('(i;i,('-(lrlv('r. On liu^ 
 I21I1 of Ahirch, 111 a t('iu])('nitiii'(' of oO° below 'zero, the ])arty 
 \v\{ the Alirl, carryin.Li; messages, letters, and instructions to 
 tliose ahoai'd the sisier ship. Tlie temperature fell very low 
 .soon after their departure, and on the third day they uiiex- 
 ])e('ledly returiuHl with th(> poor Dane utt(U'ly prostrate^ and 
 li(4pless on the sled<i;e. 
 
 " I cannot do better than r(4ate tlie sad story in Li(niteiiant 
 l'];i;er'on's own words,*' \vrites AlarKluim. "We I'cad in his 
 olficia! re])ort, that not fi\'e liours aft(>i' they had left the sh.i]) 
 M'rost-bite^ l)(>caine so uumeron>, that I tlioii!J,ht it advisable 
 to encamp.' Tiiis -was only the beginnin,^' of the story, for 
 the\' appear to ha\'e ])assed a com])arati\'el\' comforlable 
 niii,tit. At any rale they were u{) eai'ly the next iiioriiin<i; 
 and a,<;';iin under \vei,t;li ; at about one o'clock, wlien they 
 luilted for lunch, Peters(ai complained of cram]) in his stoniMch, 
 and w;ts «i;i\-en some hot tea. lie had no ai)])etit(>, Avhich 
 pei'haps w;is as well, for \ve read of th(> l)acon, wh.ich i> always 
 used for hmch : 'We \V(M'e niuible to e:it it, beinii,' fr()Z(Mi so 
 hard that we could not li'el our teeth tlu-ou.^h the lean.' They 
 still coiilinued their journey, eiicounieriii,i!,- some \-ery rouuii 
 i r:i\('nin!.':, wiiich nece-'sitated sex'ere physical labour on tlic; 
 ])a!'( of t he i wo ()fric(-i's. 'The do,i:;s were of lit t le or no use in 
 a:cll iaa,' a,ci-oss t hcs(~ sloi)es, as it was impossible to iret them to 
 v;n up the cli!!', ;uid reteisi'ii liein,!!,' unable to work, Lieutenant 
 M;iwson and 1 had to ,Li,'et t'le sleil^-e alons^ as b(>st we could.' 
 'I'oA'Mi-ds the end of the day we read: ' Petei'sen beu;;ui to 
 gel I'Mihcr woi'se, ;iiid w;is sliivcriu'i all o\'i'r, !;is iios(- Ixinsj,' 
 c.!!i--t :nit ly frost-!)il ten, ;md. at times takini;' ii\'e or ten minutes 
 bcfiire ihe ciri-ul;iti;»n could be I lioi'ouu'hiy restoi'c'i. I,icu- 
 Icn.-ml i\:!\\'-MU li;id sewTiil small fi'ost-biies, and I escaped 
 wit ii onlv otic' 
 
 '"On haltiuLi- U)V the niji,lit," continues Mai'kham, ''directly
 
 ALUKUT 11. MAUKIIAM, F. II. G. S. oil 
 
 the tent was pitched, tluy sent rcterseii inside with strict 
 injunctions to shift his foot gear and get into his sl(H^|)ing l)ag, 
 whil>t the\' Ixisied themselves in preparing supix'r and attend- 
 ing to the dogs ; hut when they entered tlie t(^nt they found 
 'th.;it he had turned in without shifting his foot gear, was 
 groaning a gcnxl deal, and com})laining of cram}) in the 
 stomach and legs.' 
 
 "HaA'ing mad(> him change, they gave him some ten, and 
 then administered a few drops of sal volatile, which a])])eai\Hl 
 to give the jioor fellow a little ease. The next mcji'ning, tlu^ 
 wind was so high and their patient in sucti a wvnk >tate that 
 tiiey did not think it ])ru(lent to Mtt(>m])t a start. lie laid 
 ])assed a very r(\-tl(>ss night, and still coin])laiiied \'ery much 
 of cram]). Latei' in tlu^ day he apjK^ared to g(>t worse, 'shak- 
 irig and sliivei'ing all over and breathing in short gas])s. Ilis 
 face, hands, ami feet \ver(> all fi'ost-hitten, tlie latter severely, 
 tmd. he liad. pains in his >ide as well.' 
 
 '"After re-toring the circulation they ruhhed him with 
 warm tlannels and placed one of their comfoi'ters I'cvmd his 
 ."stomach. In such a wr(>tched state \\'as the ])oor fellow that 
 they agreed it W(»uld endanger his life if tlu^y ]irocee(l(Hl on 
 tlieii' journey, and that wIkmi the weathei' moderated, the only 
 course^ th(>y could ])Ui'sue was to return with all haste to their 
 shij). 
 
 "As it was imp()s>i!)le to kei']/ th.eii' jnitient vrarm in ihi^ 
 tent. the>e two young officers luirrowed a hol(> in a snow-drifr, 
 and into this ca\-ily they transport(Ml \]iv sick man. th(>m>elv(\-, 
 and ;dl their tent robes, closiiui,' tlie auierture by ])lacin.g oA'cr 
 U tlu> tent and sledg(>. They de])rive(l t]iems(d\-es of th(>ir 
 own clotliinu' !oi- tlie benefit of tlie invadid, wliose frozen feel 
 they actually ])laced in>ide tlieir clothes in dii'ed eoniaci 
 with tlieir boiiie.-, uulil lh(ii'o\\'n hea! w;i< exti'acte(l ami they 
 were ihcin-i'b'cs -('\-",-r!y fro<t-bil ten in \'ariou.- tvirt-. The 
 ])()or fellow was now in a A'cry low slate; he could I'etaiu
 
 818 Till-: CHEAT WHITE \ortii 
 
 noitlicr food nor liciuid. About G p.m. lie was very bad ; 
 tliis time worse than before. There ai)})eared to be no Iwiit 
 in liini of any kind whatever, and he had acute pains in tlio 
 stomach and back. 'Mv chafed him on the slomach, hands, 
 face, and feet, and when he ^ot Ijc^tter wra])])ed him u]) in 
 everything warm we could hiy our hands upon," namely their 
 own clothiiifi;, which th(\y could ill afford to lose; but they 
 entir(>ly foruot their own condition in theii' endeavours to 
 ameliorate that of their conu'ade. Light inji; their si>irit 
 lam]) and carefully closing (>very crevice by which the cold 
 air could enter, they succeed(Ml in raising the temjxM'atui'e of 
 the int(>ri()r to 7°; but 'the atm()s])here in the hut Itecnme 
 somewhat thick.' This was, howcvei', ])referable to the 
 intense cold. Let us follow the story out, and leai'u how 
 nobly these two ofhcers tended their sick and suffering com- 
 ])anion. ' AA'e w(M'(> conslantl}' a>king if h(> was warm in his 
 f(H>t and hands to which he replied in the ;iflirmali\'e ; but 
 Ix'fore making him comfortable' (fancy being conifarhihlc, 
 imder such circumstances) ' foi' th(> night, we examined his 
 feet, and found tlieni both ])erfeclly gelid and hard from the 
 toes to the ankle, his hands nearly as bad. So each taking a 
 foot we set to work to warm them with oui- luinds and flannels, 
 as (>ac!i hand and flannel got cold irarniitKj Unni (ihoid mir 
 ])('rs()ns, und also lit U]) the s])ii'il lami). Tn about two hours 
 we got his feet to, and ])Ut them in warm fool geai\ cut his bag 
 down to allow him moi'(^ room lo (n()^•e in, and then wrappe(l 
 liim up in llie sjjarc co\-er!(>1 . His haiub we also bi'ouglit 
 round and bound lliein up in flannel wrapi)ei's, with mitts 
 oN'cr all. Clax'c him some warm fea and ;i lit \ le riim and watci-, 
 ^\■llicll he threw u]). Slioiily afirr I found liim eating -now, 
 \\iiicli we had striclly forbidden once or Iwice Ix'forc. In 
 en(lca\'ouring lo dotliis again during llie night . lie (lrag,uc(l his 
 fc(-1 ouf of tlic cox'cring ; but onl\' a few minutes could lia\'e 
 elapsed before this wasde(ecle(l by Lieutenant Ibiwson, who,
 
 liETi'IiX TO THE SHIP 319 
 
 upon examining his fec^t found I hem in nmch the same state 
 as before. We rubbed and chafed them again for over an 
 hour, and when circulation was restorcnl wraj^ped him uj) 
 again, and so ])assed tlie third night.' 
 
 '' On the following morning Petersen ai)peared to })e slightly 
 better, so thinking it was preferal>le to run the risk of taking 
 him back as he was, rather than to pass another such night as 
 the last, the\' put Idm on the sledge : and, having hurriedly 
 (>at(m their breakfast, tliey started for the shij:) with all de- 
 spatch. They had a rough journey ])efore them of eighteen 
 miles ; l)ut they knew it was a case of life and death, and they 
 encouraged the dogs to their utmost sjiced. The dogs, being 
 homeward bound, were willing enough and needed little 
 ])(>rsuasion, so that, for a time, they rattled along at a good 
 })ace. But actual i)rogress could not have been v(>ry rapid, 
 foi' we read in h^gerton's report tiiat the ])atient's 'circulation 
 was so feeble that his face and hands were constantl}' frost- 
 bitten, entailing fre(iuent stop]:)ages whilst we endeavoured to 
 restore the alfectiMl parts.' The difficulties of the homeward 
 j()urn(\\" may be gathered from the following exti'acts : 'On 
 arriving at the P>lack Cape we had to take the patient off the 
 ,sledg(\ and while one- assisted him round, the other kept the 
 dogs l):i.ck, foi' 1)}' this time they kjiew they were homeward 
 bound, and riH]uired no small amount of trouble to hold in. 
 After g(>tting the sledg(^ round and restoring P(>tersen's 
 liands and nos(^ (wliich W(M'(^ almost as l)ad again a few minutes 
 after), and securing him on ih(^ sledge, we again set off. At 
 t!ie cape the same difficulties were exiiericniced, in fact, 
 rather more, for the slcnlge took a charg(' down a ''ditch,'' 
 about n\'(Mity-fi\'e f(>et dee)), turning right owv three times 
 in its descent, and out of -wh.ich we had to drag it, and while 
 chai'ing liarn(>ss (which fMn])lo>'e(l us both, one to stand in 
 front of the dogs with the \\'hii), while the other cleared the 
 liiifs), the dogs made a sudden bolt ])ast Pieutenant Pawson,
 
 o2() THE GREAT WHITE NOIITII 
 
 who was In front with i\\v whip, and (h-a^gcd mo more th'ui 
 a hun(lr(Ml yards bcfoi'c we could ,sto|) them. At lon<>;tli, after 
 the usual ])rocess with i'elerseu (that of thawing his hands and 
 nose, which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was 
 actually necessary to sto])), w(,' <i;ot away, thankful that our 
 troubles were over. The doa,s ji,'ot their harness into a dread- 
 ful entanji;lement in their (-xcitement to get honu^, ])ut we wer(> 
 afraid to clear tlu^m lest they should break away from us, 
 or cause us any delay, as we wvvv both naturally anxious to 
 return with the utmost s])(H'd to the ship, and so relieve our- 
 selves of the serious responsibility occasioned by the veiy 
 precarious state in which our patient was iN'ing. l/pon arriv- 
 ing alongside at () : 30 p.m., we w(^re vc^y thankful that 
 Petersen was able to answer us when we infornuHl him lie 
 was at home.' 
 
 " In conclusion Lieut(Miant Egerton says: — ■ 
 
 " 'I j'egi-et exceedingly tliat I have been compellc^l to re- 
 turn to the; ship without having accom])lisli(Ml my journey to 
 H.AI.S. Discorerij ; but I trust that what I have done will 
 meet with \'our approval, and that the cours{> I ado]ited may 
 be th.e means o\' having lessencMl the very serious and distn^ss- 
 ing condition of Peterscm.' " 
 
 Poor Petersen ncA'cr recovered fi'om th(> effects of his 
 terrible ex])erience. 11(3 gradually sank and dunl peacefully, 
 on the 1 1th of May. 
 
 The work of these two brave young officers on tliis oc- 
 casion stands out conspicuously amongst ttK> many deeds of 
 daring ;md de\"otiou with which the ;unials of Ai'clic a(h'eiit ui'(> 
 abound. l''ive da\'s after their i-eturn. to the ship (2()th of 
 Alarclij the same two odiccrs. accom])ani('d by a counle of 
 s:iilor-> and a -ledge drawn by s('\-en dogs, startcMJ once more 
 'ityc the i)i-<f(inrii. After fi\-c dax's of a toilsome journ(\v 
 I'ciidcriMl all the more se\-ere by iut(>iise cold, they (cached th(? 
 ship and were warml}' welcomed 1)\' her ofiic(M's and crew.
 
 liKTI'Ry TO THE SHIP 321 
 
 The serious sledging work of tlic expedition was undertaken 
 as early in the season as April 3, in a temperature of 33'' 
 below zero. Seven sledges under the eonmiand of Alarkham 
 and Aldrieli and manned by a force of li!"t\'-three ofheers and 
 men started on that day for the long-cherished object of reach- 
 ing the Pole and of exploring the northern shores of GrimK^l 
 Land. "On the second day out," writes Alarkham, "the 
 temperature fell to 45° below zero, or 77° below freezing point. 
 The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of sleep, the 
 temperature inside the tent being as low as —25°, the wliole 
 period of resting l)eing occu])ied in attempting to keep the 
 blood in circulation. Several frost-bites w(n-e sustained, 
 but they wc>re all attended to in time, and r(\sulted in nothing 
 worse than severe and very uncomfortable l)listers." 
 
 By the 10th of April tlie depot of provisions established 
 near Ca])e Josc^ph Henry during tlu^ autunm was found un- 
 disturbed. At this point the supporting sledges returned to 
 th(^ shi)) and the two divisions separated and ad\'anced on 
 their solitary missions. The northern di\'ision miderAfark- 
 ham, with two heavily laden sledgc^s and seventcH^n men, 
 leaving land ])iished straiglit out into tlu^ rugged polar pack. 
 Handicap]XHl by the two boats which they carried, and in 
 dread of an o]^en polar s(>a, t!i(\v advanc(Ml, aftcn- abandoning 
 one of th(^ l)oats, s(n'enty-thr(H> mih^, l)ut tlu^ advance being 
 mad(Mvith divided loads, mor(^ than two hundred sev(^nty-six 
 mil(>s was a('t\i;ill\' co\-(M'ed. Ivctiching the farthest north up 
 to that time, 83° 20' X., (U° W., May 12, bS7(), the de])l(>ted 
 condition of th(> ])arty and th(^ ruuged conditions of the ice- 
 floes, forced the gallant Abirkham to retn^it. 
 
 "It is unnecessary to describe," Avrites Markham, "tlie 
 incid(>nts that occtu-red on (>ach successive day dm-iiig {\\c 
 rcMin-n journey. Snow I'ell heavily, dming the gixniter part 
 of tli(> retui'ii journey, and fogs w(>re very ])reva!(MU. (lalc^s 
 of wind had to be cndmxHl, h)r to halt A\'as out of the qut^sliun
 
 THE GIIKAT W'lIITK yoRTTI 
 
 — rest there was none — onwurd was the ordf^r of the day. 
 As llie disease <2,Tadual!y assumed the mastery over the party, 
 so (Hd the a])|)etites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, 
 imtil it was witli the (greatest difliculty that an^'hody could 1)(3 
 induced to eat at all. Instead of each man disposint); of oik^ 
 I)ound of ])emmi('an a da.y, the s;une ([uantity sufficed for the 
 entire ])arty in one tent ; and even this, occasionally, was not 
 consuuKMl. Xor was the subject of eating arid drinking so 
 often discussed. During [he ()Ut\\'ard journey, becd'steaks and 
 onions, mutton cho])s and new potatoes, and Trass's been-, 
 f(jrnuMl the chi(d' to])ics of conversation. On the r(^tui'n jom'- 
 ney they were scarcely alluded to. HungcT was never felt ; 
 but we wer(> all assailed by au iirtcjlerable thirst, which could 
 only !)■:' a])peas(Hl at meal times, or after the temperatuix^ was 
 sufficiently high to admit of (juenching our thirst by ])utting 
 icicles into our mouths." 
 
 On the 27th of May the condition of the party was so 
 critical that it becriuu^ (wident that to insuj'(> their reaching 
 the shi]) alive the sledges imist l)e consider;ibly lightened. 
 Five men were utterly unable to mov(\ and were consecjuently 
 carried on th(> sledgvs, fiv(^ more were almost as lud|jl(\-<s, 
 but insisted on h()b})ling after tlic sledges. 'rhr(H' others were 
 showing decid(Ml scoi'butic symptoms, leaving orAy two 
 officers and tw(j men, who could be consideinnl effective. 
 
 d^'i'ra (ii'ma was rcniclH^l on AIa\' ">, but the ])arty wei'e in 
 such a deplorabh" condition that though only foi'ty miles 
 remained between (hem and the shi]) \hc\v ])!-ogress was so 
 slow thnt it wouidi take them fully three weeks to cover the 
 distance, ;ind by that time who would b(> left alive? Assist- 
 ance had, ; !ier(-lni'e, to b'(^ obtanu'd. 
 
 "To iH'i'Cwr'- it," wj'iles ('ommander .Abu'kh;nu, "om; 
 aniong>t ns \^';i< ivndy ;ind wiHinsi- to set out on tin- lonely ;md 
 sditary nii--ion with the lirni reliimce of being ;ibie to ac- 
 com!)li>h what he had undei'taken, and with the knowledge
 
 ALllEllT II. MARK II AM, F. 11. C. S 323 
 
 that lie ])oss(\ss(hI tho full confidence of those for whose relief 
 h(" was al)()uT to start on a lon^ii; and hazardous walk. On the 
 7th of .June, J/ieutenant Parr started on his arduous march to 
 the shii). Di'cp and heartfelt were the ( iod-sjjceds uttered 
 as !h> took his departure, and anxiously was his retreating 
 form watched until it was gradually lost to sight amitlst the 
 iuterminalile hummocks." 
 
 'V\\o following day one of their number (HcmI, and was 
 huricnl near !)y. The saddcmed and sutVei'ing i)arty now left 
 this (l(\s()late s])ot and mad(^ an attem])t to push on toward 
 the slii]). 
 
 "On the morning of the 9th/' writ(\s Alarkliam, "a rainbow 
 was s(H'n, which, b(>ing an unusual sight, alTorded much 
 interest. On the same day, shortly after the march had been 
 comuK-nced, a moving objcu't Avas suddenly s(Mai ainidst the 
 hummocks to tiie southward. At fii'st it was regardcMl as an 
 optical illusion, for we could scai'cely realize^ thc^ fact that it 
 c((ul(l l)e ;ui;\ "body from the Alert. \\"\X\\ wluit inten<(> anxi- 
 (^t\' this object was r(\gar(l(Hl is beyond descri])tion. (iradu- 
 ally emei'ging from the hummocks, a hearty clieei' ])ut an (Mid 
 to tli(> susi)ejise that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge 
 with th.ree men was seen to b(^ aj)|)roaching. A cheer in 
 n^turn was attempted, l)ut so full wer(^ our hearts tliat it re- 
 semltled n)ore a Avail tlian a cheei'. li is in!j)ossib!(> to desci'ibe 
 our feelings as .May and Moss catne wy,. and wv received 
 from them a warm and lu^irty A\'elcom(\ We felt that wv were 
 saA'cd, and a. feelitiu; of thanld'ulness and gi'atitvide was u])]ier- 
 ]n()sl in our minds, 'is v,-e sjiook tl:e liands of those v.'ho had 
 huri'ied (lul to ouj- relief tlie moment tii;;! Parr had conveyed 
 to liiem itiir-Higence of our di>tr(~ss. Thost> who a few sliort 
 moment-- before wei'c in tlie lowest depths of (les])ondeuc\- 
 ap[)eared i]o\\' in the most exuberaiil >])iii!s. bain was dis- 
 regarded ami 'ai'dsliips wow loriiotten a- nnnierous and. 
 varied (|Ue-i;oi!;. wece asked and an>wered.
 
 3"24 THE CHEAT WHITE JS'OETIl 
 
 ''W(> lu'jird with (l('li,<i;lit that they w(>re only the vanguard 
 of a hirt!,('!' ]>arty, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was 
 eoniiuii; out to our r(4ief, and which we should probably 
 in(Hi on the following;- day. A halt was immediately ordered, 
 cookinji; utensils lii^hted up, ice made into water, and we wer(> 
 soon all enjoyinj; a ji;ood i)annikin full of lime-juice, with the 
 prospcH't of mutton for suppcM' ! " 
 
 On th.e 14th (.)f June, after s(>venty-two days of travel and 
 hardshi]), CoimnaniUa' Alai'kham's ])ar1y reached th(> AlcrL 
 Out of hftecai nam, one had gone to his long home, (^leven 
 others were carried alongside tlu^ ship on sl(Hlg(\s, the remain- 
 ing three bar(4y al)l(> to hobble aboai'd. 
 
 "A more thorougli brealc-u]) of a la^dthy and strong body 
 of men it would be diffieailt to conceive," conmients Alarkham. 
 "Xot only had the men engaged in tlie (wtendcnl ])ai'ty und(M' 
 my command Ixhmi attacked with scurvy, but also those who 
 had been al)sent from the slii]) only for short pfTiods, and somc^ 
 Avho ma\' b(^ said ncH'ci' to !iav(^ k^ft the ship at all, or if they 
 did, ()nl\- for two or three days ! The seeds imist hav(~ been 
 sown during th(^ time, nc^ai'ly five months, that the sun was 
 abs(Mit, jind we were in darkness." 
 
 The serious condition of t!ie crew of the Alc/i determined 
 Oa])tain Xai'e-^ to j)ublicly aimounce on tlie Kith of June that 
 immediately upon the r(*turn of tlu^ other sledge ])arties he 
 would rejoin the Ih'sconri/, transfer all the invalids, and send 
 tli(> <\u]) h()m(\ Tlie . !/{/■/ would remain a seu'ond wintei' at 
 I'oi'l i''oulke, and in the s])ring sledge part ies would endea\'- 
 o:ir to explore llay-^ Sound and the adjaceiU lands, aftei" 
 wliieh the Ah.rl would r(Mui'n to I'Jigland. Th.is cheerful 
 news did much lo I'estore the inx'alids to con\ale>cence, and 
 inimedlinti ly .a change fo.'- the belter was notic(>d among all 
 hand--. 
 
 ( 'on.-iderabl!' anxiety was felt, howe\'ei', for Lieutenant 
 Aldi'icir.- [)ar!y. Although hi- route wa- along the coa-<t-line,
 
 ALBERT U. MAUKllA.\t. F. It. C S. 825 
 
 and it. was 1io]mmI that a su))])ly of hares, .^ccsc, and p('rhai:)S 
 in\isk-()X(Mi niiii;ht occasionally he sc-curcd, every one knew 
 that his >ui)pl\' of provisions was all but cxhau.-lcd, and for the 
 })ur))o>(' (.)f his relief a ])art\' of three men under Lieutenant 
 ^Ia\' left the shi]) June 18. 
 
 The intervenin.ti; time until Sunday, June 2."), was one of 
 gr(>at concern to all on b(jard ; on that da\' the wanderers 
 were seen stru^'<>;lino- through the hummocks some six or seven 
 miles off. A relief party innnediately left the ship and Ijrought 
 the men on board. All but two were sulfering from scurvy. 
 Only Lieutenant Aldrich and two men were able t(j walk along- 
 side the shi|), and one of th(\'^e was in a critical condition for 
 many weeks after. The\' had been absent from tlie ship 
 eighty-h)ur days, having ex])lored tW(.) lumdred twenty 
 miles of new coast. Passing ( 'a})e ( 'olumbia, 83° 07' X., 
 Lieutenant Aldi'ich I'cacluMl his farthest point on the 18th (jf 
 May, 1870, in 82= 10' X., 80= W., at Cape Alfred Ernst. 
 
 It now became the ardu(jus woi'k of the few members of the 
 ship's com])any wiio were in good health to mini.-ter to the 
 numerous in\-alids, ])r('pare the shi]) tor lea\'ing winter quar- 
 t(>rs as soon as the ice would permit, and make hunting trip> 
 in search oi fresh meat, ^o essential t(j the cure of scurv\' 
 l)atients. 
 
 On the 31st of July, a fresh southwestei'ly wind had blown 
 the pack off the shore, a clear clianui'l of (jpen water to the 
 southward was hailed with delight, the thi'obbing of The oi\- 
 gine> told t];e men that libei'ation was ;i.t hand, and tlu' /\l(ii 
 bade farewell to her nortliern home. Progress was slow, aii'l 
 tlu'catened ■'■ni])s"' in the short journey to the Dl-^cnrcrji tri(Ml 
 the jxitience of the crew, but on AuL;;ust ."), while yet twenty 
 miles distant fi'om th(> sister shi]~), Piiwson and two of tlu' 
 men of the Discdfcri/ came on Ijoard. 
 
 "We were, of course, delighted to see them and to hear 
 news of ou!' con.-ort," writes ("onunander Arai'lvhaiii. " l'"rom
 
 •yio 
 
 THE ciiLAT wiiiri-: .xoirni 
 
 thctii w<' Iciinit 1iuit ])()()r I\a;crt()n li;ul lost his ■\^'ay, ami did 
 tiol arrixc on hoai'd their sliip until ai'tcr he had hccn vraiulcr- 
 iuL!,' al»(»ut for ('iti,ht('(ii hours! 'J'hc news froiu the Discorcry 
 was what we l'oai'('(|. Xot withstanding th(> large amount of 
 nui.-k-ox flesh ])rocure(l hy them during the atitmmi and 
 h)ilowing sumnuM-, scurvy had attack(>d her crew in almost 
 the same \-irulen1 manner as it liad ours. Idie retm'n j(jur- 
 neys of some of their sledge pailies were sim])ly a re})etiti()ii 
 of our own. l>eaumont"s divisicju — the (jne exploring the 
 northwestern coast of ( li'eeiiiand — had suffeixMl \-er\' severely, 
 and we lieardi with extreme i'(\gi'(>t th.at t^^'0 of his small ])arty 
 had suc(aunb(>d to this terrioie diseas(\ I'he r(>st of liis men, 
 with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet I'etuiiKHi to the 
 hiscoraij^ luiving remained in Polaris Bay to recruit tlu^ir 
 healths. Th.is wa.s, indiMMl, a hitter ending to our s])riiig 
 ca!nj)aign, on which we liad all set out so full oi enthusiasm 
 an<l hope. Il had the elTecl, hov\'e\-er, of condlrming Captain 
 \ar( s in his r(\<olution to }ri'oc(n'd to hjigiand." 
 
 ^riie excelieni woi'h don(> l;\' the sledging j)ajlies from th(> 
 Discorvrij ma}' he sumnu^d \i\) ;is follows : Lie-ulenaiit Archer 
 had made a ih.oi'ough surx'eyof Ai'chei' Fioi'd : ])i'. ( '()])])ingi-r 
 had \'i>;ted T'et'-rmann i'lni'd, and i.ieutenant L. A. ]>eaumont 
 made extenr-i\(' exj)li)i'at ions of the (Ji'eenlan'l coast. 11(^ 
 ha,d ti'a\elled lo Iv; pul:-e IJai'hour, following th.e coast to 
 ('ape hh'va.nt, |)ushing his way a.cross Sherai'd ()s!)orn i'ioi-d, 
 he !!:i!l left ;;ll hui one xuv.w to !ecup(M'atv' and 1ra\'elled with 
 his >ing|i' coiMpaui' )!! as !';!;■ du the tTi^'^M'n sii()r(> as S2"' 20' X., 
 ')\' "W., which he !'('ac!i<'d .\;a_^v- _(), hSTii. The rei;irn journey 
 was a fight' foi' life ai':a!'i--t the encroaclnniMsls of scur\-y ; 
 a n'icf p,;n'ly under Lic.ii euant Hawsoii and Hr. ( 'op])iii'.ier 
 s,i\-(d the ])arly. hwl \w< men died at Hall's old (piarters at 
 Tliank ( *.i)(! ! hiriKir. 
 
 'I'hc t\\^') -hi])- now i'( -ii'ipt the ,i:;()od (i'dil aii'ainst the ic(> 
 OM thi'ir hfiiiuward joiwney, hormg, charging, and towing as
 
 yiro voy.K^Es of the - pam)()iia" 827 
 
 occasion rc(|uirc(l. "It was wilii no small amount of thank- 
 fulness. " A\'i'itcs Markliam, "that on the !)th of S('])tcmhor 
 we (-mcrii-cd fi-om x\\v cold j^rim clutches tliat sccnied only too 
 I'eady to detain us for another winter in the realms of tlie Ice 
 Kim;-, and that we I'elt our shij) ris(> and fall once uk^'c on the 
 l)os(,ni of an und(Kil)te(l ocean swell." 
 
 ( )n the 2!)th of October, 1S7G, the two ships reached Queens- 
 towti, ha\'in<i' ])as>ed the Pajuhrrd in mid-ocean. The two 
 V(»\'a,u('s of this ji'alLint little shij^ will now be taken up. 
 
 "ddie objects of the first voyage of the Pcni(hir<i in 1875," 
 ^\'rites Sir Allen Young, ''were to visit the western coast of 
 (Ireerdand, thence to proceed thr(jugh Baffin Sea, Lancaster 
 Sound, and r>arrow Strait, towards the Alagnetic Pole, and 
 if ])ra('ticable to na\'igate through the Xorthwcst Passage to 
 the Pacific Ocean in one season. As, in following this route, 
 the Pa/irlora would ])ass King ^^'illianl Island, it was proposed, 
 if successful in reaching that locality, in tlie sununer season 
 when the snow was off the land, to make a se;u'ch for further 
 I'ecords and for the j<;urnals of the shijjs Krdjii-s and TciTor." 
 
 The Panihrni was rigged as a bark(>ntine, and cariied 
 eight boats, including a steam cutter and three wliale-])oats. 
 Her officers and crew numb(>re(l thirty-one invw, with ( 'aptain 
 Young in C(Mnmandi. Idu- expenses of the ex])e(lii ion, and the 
 ]')urcha--e and e(;uipment of tlie Ptn/flor'!. were und(a'1aken by 
 Sir Allen Younu;. a.>-i.-ted by contributions fi'(jm Lady I'ranklin 
 and Mr. Jame- 0(jrdon P>ennett, who was second in connnand. 
 
 On tlie 27; h of .]\uu'. 1^7.'). the Pin/'lnrd s;iil(vl from Plym- 
 oulh. and by July 10. >tood in latitude oS'^ .")S' X., longitude 
 ;■)] ' .'!:■]' W.: by the 2st h of July the first icebergs were en- 
 countered. The foUowinii.- da.y tiiey saw the fir-t S])ilzber<i.'en 
 ic:-. At noon the -ame d;iy the hmd ab'out ("at)e Desolation 
 couiil be jtl'dnly seen whenever the f()^■ lifted. 
 
 Soon aftei' they stood off the oitrance of Ai'<uk Fiord; 
 ihi- co;i--t is tile !]'( sf Ijijijd of tlie ancient X'or>e colouizers of
 
 ■]-2>) Tin-: (;iiKAT wiiitk xortii 
 
 Greenland, and mvir Arsuk was the old Xorse church of Stcin- 
 iials. "Idu^ ^\i^(Jl(> coast/' writes Captain Voung, "from 
 S. E. to X. X. E. stood Ijcfoi'c lis like a panorama, and the s(>a 
 so calm, and everything so >till and peaceful, excepting now 
 and then the rumbling of an overtiu'ning l)erg, or the distant 
 (U'ho of the flo(\s as they ])resse(l togetlier to seaward of us, 
 tliat it almost seemed lil^e a transition to some (jther world." 
 
 At Irigtut, where the Pnndorfi \)\it in to coal. Captain 
 Young ha<l the ])leasure of \'isiting his old sliij), tlic Fox. 
 At Irigtut aho are located the famous cryolite^ mines, dis- 
 co\'ei'e(j by the Dani-h mi>sionar'i(.'S who first sent s})ecimens 
 to C(j])enhagen as ethnograj)hical curiosities. The cryolite 
 i> found near the shore, resting innncMliately u])on gneiss. 
 The ])ure<t is of snow-white cohnu', tiie grayish white variety 
 being second in (juaht}'. It nuich resembles ice wliich has 
 been curvedi and grooved ])y the action of the stm's rays ; its 
 com])on('nt ])arts are doulde hydi'ofhiate of soda and alumina. 
 It mebi> like ice in the lhim(M>f a candle, and it is used iprinci- 
 pally for malving s(jda, also for ])i-('i)a!'ing aluminum. 
 
 The Pdhilij/'O. was higlily favou.red by the singularly open 
 coridiliidi of Alek/ille Ikiy ; bergs ])i-oved ])lentiful, buit no 
 di'(-aded ice-fioe impeded her ])rogi-e-s. A cliauge in the ice 
 c(;i;dition< wa- hr>t noticeal)le while off the Cary Islands. 
 .\iid upon lc;iv!ug tlie i-knids and ]")r()C(>cding toward Eaucaster 
 Sound, tlie I'lnidDra fell in with 1 h.e ice tlie 2()t}l of AugU>t 
 ■\\Eil(' l\'iiig about lhirt\" miles ea>t of ('ajX' Ilor-burgli. 
 
 ■'Thri'i" bc;u's being <{:v]\ on the ic(\" writes C;i])iain 
 '\'oU!ig, ■■TA\'ent aAV;i\' in t he ,-econd cutter with I'irie and I k^y- 
 ue!i, and aiker -hootina,' 1 he old >he-bear and one cub we ^uc- 
 (•!■(■( ied in u'eltina a I'ope .'U'ound the larger cub and loAving him 
 to tiie --hip. Xow beu;ni a m,o-1 li\'el>' scene, "idie be;u' was 
 alnio-t full gi'own, ;i!id \\ w\\< with .<onie difiicult\' we got him 
 on b(i;;!-,i ;in(l ti('(| dow-ii llie I'i n 'J, -bol t < wiih hi- iiind leg< se- 
 enreil ; ;uid noi wit h-l audin"' this i'ouu;h ti-eatment he r^hov.'cd
 
 TWO VOVACKS OF TILE "■ PAN DOHA" -520 
 
 most wonderful (MU'ri;y in tn'ln<i; to attack any one who came 
 within r(>ach, and c^spcciaHy our do<>;s, who seemed to deh<i;ht 
 in 1r}ing liis temper. \\v was at last secured on the (quarter 
 deck witli a chain round his neck and under his fore arms, and 
 soon l)e<i;an to feed ravenously on — I am sorr}' to have to 
 write it — his own mother, who was speedily cut up and i)ieces 
 of her (lesh thrown to my new shi})niate. I liopc^ tliat he; 
 was only an adopted child, and the great diffcn'ence l)etwe(Mi 
 him and the oth(>r cul) warranted this sup])osition, as, ])ein,<>; 
 tln-ee timcvs the size of the other, he could not have been of tlie 
 same littcn-." A few days later we read, "Our ntnv shi])mate, 
 tlu^ hear, made desperate struggles to get over the rail into th(^ 
 sea, ])ut the cliain was tightened, and at last he went to sle(>p." 
 
 On the 2od of .Vugust, a l)arrier of ice across Lancastt^' 
 Sound ol)lig(Nl Captain Young to retrace his ste])s. Snow, 
 sleet, ;uid wind prevaikMl as they scudded onward, an ice 
 blink fr(M|U(^ntly alu^ad ; i\\o\\ the inevitable floe in streams 
 and loost^ piecc^s, with the sea dashing over them as tluy 
 flew betwecMi. 
 
 ■' \\'hilc> ^\•e were- in this situation," Captain Young observes, 
 ■'our b(>ar gradually' worked himself into a state of frantic 
 excitement — getting up to th(> rail, --- watching the floe-ice 
 rapidly dashing ])ast. our side - and in his attem])ts to get 
 over the bulwarks, \\q ri^hniscHl his chain until it was evident 
 that in a few moments he would be fr(>e, wlu^ther to di\'e ov(m-- 
 board oi' to run aimick among the watch ai)p(>ar(>d a ([uestion 
 of doubt. The alarm being given by Piri(\, who was writing 
 up the deck log, rhe watch was called to secur(> the l)ear, and I 
 fear tho.t dui'ing the half hour whicli ela])sed the ship was left, 
 more or less, to take care of herself. The whole* watch, 
 besides Pii'ie with a revolver and myself with a crowbar, 
 a^sauhed i1k> unfoi't imat!> Bruin, whose frantic struggl(>s and 
 <'nd(\v\-ours to attack (>\-(M'\' one within reach were ((uite as 
 nnich as w(* could control. lie* was loose, but bv a fortunate
 
 ;5:]0 THE gjh:at white yoRTii 
 
 event a ruuniiio; noose; was passcnl round his neck, and tli(^ 
 poor brute was hauled dovni to a rin,a;-})olt until we could s(S 
 cure the chain round his neck and body. I had hitherto no 
 concei)tion of the sti'cnt;-th of these animals, and especiall}' of 
 the power of their jaws. Fearin<>; that the iron crowbar nii^'ht 
 injure his teeth, 1 janinicd a niop handle^ into his mouth while 
 the otlun's were securin^u; his chain, and he bit it completely 
 throuii,h. At last Brtiin .u'avc; in, and beyond an occasional 
 struiit^le to ,a;ct lo()S(>, and a constant low <i,'rowlini2;. he jrave us 
 no further Irotiblc. I ouiiht to mention that in the midst of 
 the scrinnnaii;e the Doctor was called up to gi\'e him a dose of 
 opiiuu, in the h()])e of su!;duiii;j; him by this means; but 
 liavinii; succeeded in f>;eitin,<i,' him to swalhnv a piece of blul)ber 
 saturated with chloroform and opium sufHcient to kill a doz^ni 
 men, our ]>ruin did not aj)pear to have experieea'cd the; 
 sli<i;htest (effect, and the Doctoi', who \'olunteered to I'cmain uj), 
 and expressed some anxiety as to the bear's fate, retii'cd 
 behjw somewliat disa})])ointed." 
 
 Alakiniz; liai'row Strait for tlu^ ])ur{)()se of reachin^y; I'fH'chey 
 Island, the /^///^/o/v/ ])m'sued her cum's(>, in i'o.ii; and sno^\• ; 
 Jicechey Island was reached on. tlu^ 2^)\\\. (!oin<i- on shore-, 
 Cai)tain Youn,u; and two ofiicers insjjccted the statc^ of ])ro- 
 A'isions and boats at Xoi'llnunberland House. It ^vill be 
 r(>m('mb(M'»'d tliat Xoj'thumlx'rland II()U<(> was built by 
 ("ommandcr i'tdlcn of the Xoiih Slar, which wintereil tliero 
 in 1S.")2 IS,"):; and IS.").'! IS.") I, as a dejjot for Sii' I'Mward 
 Px'lrlicr's cx|)('dition. Tiic liou.se was built in the fall ol' 1S.")2, 
 of llie lowc!' ma--1s and spars from the Americ;m whaler 
 McLilhm. which had been crushed in the ice in Mel\-ille P>ay 
 in IS."",-.^. 
 
 ('apl.'iin VouitU' I'ouikI thai the house had been sl()\(> in at 
 l!ie door and sicjes. t »y the wind and by beai's, ami alnieist 
 e\-eryt him:,' li!.^hl and nio\ai»le liad been blown out or dra,ii'i!,('(l 
 out 1)\- trie bears, which had al-o torn up all I he ti)ps (^f thee
 
 7 iro VUVACh'S OF THE - I'AMjOHA" ool 
 
 l)ul('s, and scattered i\\o contents in all direc.'tions. The lioas(; 
 ^vas nearly full of ice and snow frozen so hard as to necessitate 
 tlu; use of pick-ax(^ and crowbar before anything could be 
 moved. T'ea-chesls and beef casks had been Ijroken o])en and 
 the contcnils scattt-red or devoured. The })lace pi'csented a 
 scene of ruin and confusion, although thert; werc^ no traces of 
 the place having been visited by human Ix'ings since the 
 depaHure of Sir Leopold Al'dintock in the Fox, the Itth of 
 August, 1853. 
 
 A cask of rum had remained intact, "a conclusive ]:)roof 
 to my inind," writt'S (,*aptain Young, "that neither Eskimo 
 noi- I)ritish sailor liad entered that way." The boats, however, 
 wer(^ found in go(jd condition, and had escaped the ravages 
 of time and wild animals. 
 
 Weighing anchor the Pandora stood to the southward for 
 VvxA Strait. Captain ^'oung A'isit(>d a cairn in whi(-h a rec(jrd 
 liad been ])laced by Captain James C. lioss, 7th of Jun(\, 1849. 
 
 An. attem])t wtis made to push through to Jlellot Strait, 
 l)Ut; ihe fast closing in of the ice determined Ca])taiu Yoimg 
 to retreat and a!)a.ndon his chei'ished hoix^ of making the 
 ]\'ortl\wesl Passage this year. A race with the ic(^ to ('a])e 
 Reimell and a second visit to the C.'ary L'-lands j'csulted in 
 finding a record left th(>re l>y tlu^ Alcii and Discovrij, which 
 brought glad tidings to fi'iends at honi(\ V)\ the 11th (jf 
 Se])t(Muber, t!ie I'lnidora lighted (*a])e Dudley ]3igges, about 
 ten inil(>s distant, ''tlie wii;d fr(\-]iening to a gak>, with a high 
 flowiiig sea. wiiicli fi'o/e ;is it ln.])ped our sides.'" 
 
 Cape ^'ork was ])assed the next day. A stormy pa.-sage 
 continued to harass them until the 19th. when the Pondurd 
 r(viched th(- harbour of Codhaven. After a hnxr days' stay 
 at Godluu'en. slie continued in \\vv cotu'se ; on the 1st of 
 Oi'tober >\\{' stood soulliwai'd of the ca])e, steerinii; dii-ect for 
 the English Cham)(d, and anchorcvl ;it S])ithead, the Kith of 
 Octobtu', 187.").
 
 THE CllKAl' WllLTE SOiniL 
 
 Tlu' Pandora put to sea on licr second voyage from \\\v, 
 Southampton Docks, ]May 17, 187G, for the tlouhle ])urpose of 
 making another att(^m[)t to sail through Peel and Frankhn 
 straits, and nax'igate tlie coast of Xorth America to Behring 
 Strait, and to carry out the instructions of tlie Britisli 
 Admiralty in an attempt to conununicate with the Alert 
 and Discorcrij, at Littleton Island or ('a})e Isabella. Prcjceed- 
 ing under sail, she reached (iodhax'en !)y the 7th of July. 
 
 Ilei'e desolation and gloom seemed to overwhelm the littk; 
 settlcMuent. owing to the stoi'ehous(> having kurned and con- 
 sumed tlie (iitire winter's production of oil and l)lukber, some 
 two hundred t)arrels, as ^vell as all the stort' belonging to the 
 I'nited St;ites Polaris expedition. Such a disaster to tlie 
 poor ( lre(>nlanders was (juite as great a catastrophe as the 
 burning of half of London would be to a Britisher. Iiow(>\'(^r, 
 a cordial welcome awaiteil Cajjtain Young from the hospitalile 
 natives, and, "In fact,"" hewrit(\s, " w(Mhoi'oughly enjoyed our 
 stay in poi't, and all made great friends with the ( Ireenkinders. 
 The onl}- drawback was caused b}' the (iuautiti(\s of tlie most 
 \'enomou< mos(|uitoes I e\'er saw, and they did theii' \"ery best 
 thoroughly to toi'm(>nt us. I ne\-ei' in an\' climate knew such 
 a pe-t as Ave found thes(> (Ireenland nao<([uitoe-. for wherever 
 we went , either oti shon^ or in a boat , and even on board shij), 
 they followeil u- persl>tently. an.d at whate\-er liour. night or 
 da\'. it was alw;i\'s the same. T was this time moi'c bitten 
 t'lan I e\er wa< before. .My head and hand> were completel\' 
 swollen, and one of my (\\-e< shut U])."" 
 
 ( )n t he 1 1 1 h of .hdy. t he [■'nntlnrn steamed out eif ' 'iodh;i\"en, 
 in the direct ion of \\ aigat, making a brief slop ;it Xj.'irag-ugs- 
 ■-uk, and [)UtlinL!.- in for coal at Kudlie-t. I>y the Kith. >fi(^ 
 stood off iiare I-land, and two (lay< hit el' was I'unnin.g under 
 canw'is lowai'd-; \ ])erna\'ik. Lfvix'inu,' on the l!Mh, the ,-hi]) 
 ])i-oceedcrl -lowly t'lronu'li ;i dense fog towiird P)rown I>l;.nd. 
 d"he l)uck l.-land- weiv pa--e(l on the iM-t. tlie fog again
 
 TWO ]-0)Mr,i-;.s OF THE '• J'AyJJOHA o:]3 
 
 nuul(^ ])r()_<i'i'('ss (wti'cincly (liUicult, und the couiplication.s of 
 tiu)usuu(l> of icebergs, of every conceivable fcjnii and shap(,', 
 intermingled with the drifting floes of ice, almost blocked the 
 wa\' to the north. 
 
 Tlie following days were passed in the greatest anxiety 
 ])y Captain Young. The Patidora was beset in the ice-])ack 
 of .Mi'h'ille Bay, and in s])ite of blasting with gunpowder 
 all around lun-, v\'here the pressure was greatest, the enormous 
 icebergs dri\'ing through towards her position threatened her 
 destruction at any moment. 
 
 On the 20th of .Iul\-, a frightful storm disrupted the pack, 
 and, aft(M' t^venty-four h(jurs (jf unc(>rtaint\' and danger, the 
 pdiulnra ste;uned her way, inch l:)y inch, yard by yard, into the 
 ojx'u sea. ■'■ Cheers l)urst spontaneously fr(jm the crew as wo 
 L-uiucIkhI out into the ocean and made all sail to a fair wind 
 from ilie S. W." 
 
 The ■■' Xortli Water " at last, with the whole season ahead and 
 a straight course for Caj)e York and the Cary Islands ; a l)ri(>f 
 ,stt)p to examine tlie Fiindora'.-i depot of the previ(jus year, and 
 by August 2 the ship was passing west oi Hakluyt Island. A 
 stop was made at >utherland Island for the purpose of finding 
 any despatches from Cajrtain Xares that may have been left 
 thei-e, but only Cai)tain Ilartstein's recoivl was found, left 
 therc^ August 1(3. ISoo, when he touched at this p(jint in liis 
 .seai'ch foi' Dr. Kane. 
 
 At Liuleton I.-land. which was reached August 3, Captain 
 \'(»ung was moi'e successful, and a record Avritten July 28, ISTo, 
 and left there by Ca])tain Xai'cs. gave full information of the 
 P>rili<li expedition uj) to tliat date. As it was (>vident that 
 no sledging ])arty hail touched at tliat point in the si)ring, 
 Ca])tain Young's mi-<ion Ava< ov(M'. and he turned his atten- 
 tion to tlic main object of his voyage, that of attem])ting the 
 Xo!'thwe<t ]'a-<;i2,-e 'vV/ ]^•^! "^trait. ]^i'e\'ious to wViich. how(>\-er. 
 hi' lujide an exaiuination of tlie bays and ink^ts between, Litth.^- 
 tou l<la!'d and Car)e Alex;'uder.
 
 >v> 1 
 
 <-j4 
 
 THE GliKAT WHITE SOilTII 
 
 T<nic!iirm' ;it Cape Isabella, Licutf'nants Arl)utlniot and 
 Bccl-ccr laiulc'l and louiid a second c(jnununicat ion from ( 'ap- 
 Tain Xare-. left ilicrc July 2i), L^7o. LcUcr.s lur the Alrii and 
 Discnn i-'j ami a record i)i the I'a ntlDrn' s x\<\\ were- de])o>ited 
 at this pcjint. A second attempt to reach (.'ape I>abella tor 
 the i)urpo-e of a more thor(jiiu'h examinatitjn of a ca-k, 
 (le.-cril)ed ! ly tlie first landiin,u' party, and supjx^-ed by Captain 
 Youn,a; to contain letter.- or despatches. re>ulte(l in the 
 Pn/tilorti'.-: spending three weeks in a .-iruugle witli the ice 
 for an approach. When ('ape Isabella, ^\•as finall}' reaclied, 
 after (U:\-.- of delay and di-ajipointment, thc> ca-k which had 
 can-ed -o nmcli anxiety and intere-t wa,- fotnid to be (■ni])ty. 
 
 So much time luid been lo-t in the disappointing effort to 
 r(-acli ('ape I-abella. thai t!ie -ca.-on was far ad\-anced. an<l tiie 
 Pniidiirf! found herself in a mo-i critical })(j>ition in the icc- 
 paclv. To pioceed northwarbi had bfM-ome out of the (jUe-tion. 
 by the 27th of Auu'u.-t. and furiou- .-'onus lite'"al!y d;'o\-e \\,i^ 
 ^hip out of Smitli Strait to the .-ou'hwai'd. ( 'aptain I'oun.u'.s 
 ])ei--oual di-:i.])poinlment at the turn of affair- w;i- only -ui'- 
 [)a--ed by the dh-ai)i)ointment of tiie cr('W, avIio. after the Puf- 
 fei iuLi' and rianger of tlicir I'ecerd expf^rii-ucc. showeii an ea,Li''-r- 
 nes- to I'i-k j)a--hn-i- .a wiiiK']- in ^rim- >\i\vs i;arl)our. The pack 
 gi'ab.ually recidei} as tlie Pf.'//'h'ra made Icr vray toward, llalv- 
 luyl I-laii'l, aid tlie w:iy wa- (.dear for an i;uni'-diale return to 
 Kimlaiid. The (j]iiy im])ortant inciijeui ef the I'eturn \'oyaue 
 Wa- ihe mi'diiio- \vi\]i the .!/.'/■/ and 1 j>.'^ciir( ;■;/ in lalitubie ," P 
 :W X.. lomritude !!' :-Si)' \V. Tlie eallanr lirtle I',i/,'lnni. 
 con* inuiuu' in iwr cou!'-e. made Port-mouth harb;.)ur on the 
 '.ll <>\ Xovembe;-. 1^7i). 
 
 I-oJl(,wiim- ii! chronolo'iical order the interesling voyaue.- 
 of ;he I'uh'lnrn. liut of a i"':i!l\- (riff'^'reiit c!:;iracler wa.- bhe 
 re'iriiT.'dT' !aU<l itiU-'lwy ef (,.-i'!' wvn i'hou-and ei'^hl buii- 
 (bvd nilM'Ti'i'l! tre- i^r;;j)i:ic:; ! nii'i-- i I y l.ieiil eiiallt >':;W;idca. 
 
 I'.^. \.. wile W. II. (dld^r, •!) !he \aar- , m' lN7s-ls7!t,
 
 scinwirhA's search for franklix rfcords ooo 
 
 uiulrrLakcu for the puiposc of (li^icovi'ring the Fr;inklin 
 r('c<ji'ds, should they still exist on Jviiig William Land, or in 
 the \'ieiuity of the route taken by the survivors of the Krehus 
 and Terror. 
 
 Lieut(Miant Frederiek Selnvatka was of Pfjlish d(>se(>nt, 
 American by bii'th, and had served with distinction in the 
 Third (Rivalry. His daring and courage led liim io a desire 
 for Ai'ctic adventure, and, having secured leav(> of absence 
 from the government and the su})})ort of the National Geo- 
 gi-ai)hic Society, lie left Xew York on the lOth of June, 1S78, 
 in the Ediier, with four companions, tmder the following 
 instructions : — 
 
 "I/pi^n y(jur arrival at Rejiulsc^ P^^iv, you will prepare for 
 your inland journey by building your sledges and taking such 
 pi-o\-isic)ns as are necessary. As soon as suflicient snow is on 
 the ground, you will start for King ^^'illiam Land and the Gulf 
 of iioothia. Take daily ot)servati(jns, and whenev(^r you 
 discover any error in any of the charts, you will corr<'ct the 
 same. Whenever you shall make any n('W discoveries, you 
 will mark the same on the charts ; and ijnportant discoveries 
 I d('-irt> to b(> named afti^r tlu^ Hon. Cliarle-; P. ])aly and his 
 estimable wif(\ Ah's. ALu'ia Daly. Any recoi'ds you nuu' think 
 neccssaiy for you to leav(.^ on tlic ti'i]), at such ])laces as you 
 tiiinlc best, you will mark " Esther Franklin Ai'ctic Search 
 Part\'. Fre Icrick Schwatka in connnand : (\i\\i\ longitude, 
 and latitude ; to })e dii'ected to the Presid(>nt of the National 
 Geoii'rai^jhlc Socii'ty, Xew York, I'nited StatC'S of Am(M'ica. 
 Sliould you be fortunate in finding tlie records, remains, 
 or i'(>lics of Sir John Franklin or his unforturiate ]iarty, as I 
 have hnp;'s you will, you will kee]i tlu^na in youi' or Joe's con- 
 trol. aii;l tl!(> contents th(M'(M)f shall be ke]^t s(>ci'et. and no ])art 
 tb.ei'eof di'stroy(Hl, tam])er('d with, or lo>t. Sliould you find 
 the reniaiii-; of Sir .John r^ranklin or auy of his ]);u'ty, you will 
 take the sam(\ have them ])roi)erly taken care of, and bring
 
 oob THE CHEAT WHITE NOIITII 
 
 them with you. ^J'he carpenter of the Esther will, before you 
 start on your sledge journey, prepare boxes necessary for tiu^ 
 care of relics, reinains, or records, should you discover the 
 same. Whatever you may discover or obtain, you will deliver 
 to Captain Thomas F. Barry, or whoever shall l.)e in command 
 of the schooner Esther or such vessel as may be despatched 
 for you. You are now provisioned for eighteen months 
 for twelve; men. I shall next spring send more ])rovisions to 
 }'ou, so that in the event of \-our trip being prolongcnl, you shall 
 not want for any of the necessaries of life. You will be careful 
 and economical with your ])rovisions, and will not let an}-- 
 thing be wasted or destroyed. Sliould the expedition for 
 which it is intendcnl prove a failure, make it a g(;ographical 
 succi-ss, as you will be compelled to travel over a great dvixl 
 of un(^x])lor(Ml country." 
 
 Winter ([uarters were establish(Hl at Camp Daly o!i tiie 
 shor(> ice of Hudson Bay, and intercourse k(^pt up among Ww 
 natives of Chesterfi(4d Inlet, for \\\v purpose of (^nlisting th.eir 
 supi)ort on the sledge journeys ])lann(Ml for the spring and to 
 s(H'ure all available information regarding Sir John I'l'aniclin 
 or his unfortunate^ vvvw. 
 
 \\y the 1st of April, the sknlge })arty started on tlie long 
 march towards King William Land. Licnitenant Schwalka 
 was accompani(xl by the origin;d ])ai'ty of four white men 
 and fourteen h'skimos. The sknls Avere drawn by forty-two 
 dogs ; the loads aggregatcMl about five thousand ]M)unds on the 
 day of starting, consisting larg(>ly of walrus meal for the 
 dogs, a lil)(M'al e(|uipnient of guns, aimnunition, and articles of 
 trade, l)esides tlu^ following list of provisions : — 
 
 ]I)S. 
 
 I Lard bn^ad oOO 
 
 I'ork 200 
 
 ( "onipir--;cd corned t)(M>f 200 
 
 ( '<irn starch 80
 
 srilWATKA S SEARCH FOR FRAXKLIN RFCORDH Ooi 
 
 Oleomargarine 4(J 
 
 C;h(?ese 4U 
 
 CoiTce 40 
 
 Tea o 
 
 Molasses 20 
 
 This, it will be seen, was only about one month's rations for 
 se\-(>nteen jx'ople, antl was, in fact, nearly exhausted by tlie 
 time the party reached King \\'illiam Land. Dependence 
 was placed on the hunting and abundance of game; ti\'e hun- 
 dred and twenty-two reindeer, besides musk-oxen, polar bears, 
 and seals were secured in the course of the entire journey. 
 
 Travelling overland to the Back River, the party experi- 
 enced all the fatigues incident to sledge progress, especially 
 the Americans, who, unaccustomed to long marches, suffered 
 gri'atly from blistered feet and nmscular soreness. The 
 country seemed alive with game, and on the 11th of ]\Iay 
 s(>\'en reindeer were killed and on the 13th as nian\' as nine. 
 
 The nortliern shore of the Back River is bounded by high 
 hills, almost a mountain range, and inland could be seen rocky 
 liills piled together, barren and forbidding. About noon on 
 the 1 ttii, the party came tipon some freshl}' cut ])locks of snow 
 turned up on end. — a sure sign of natives in the vicinity, — 
 and farther on f()ot])rints in the snow as well a< a cache of 
 mu<k-ox'meat. I-^jlIowing tlu^ tracks after breaking cani]^ the 
 ni'xt day, the party scjon readied several iglfjo-. and conummi- 
 C'ltion wa- immcnliately established with the inhabitants. 
 The chief s])okes!iiari was an( )kjo()Iik. whowithhis familx'com- 
 priseil all tliat was left of tlu^ trib(^ which foi'mei'l\' occu])ied 
 tlie westei'u coast of Adelaide Peniiisula and Iviuii' William 
 Land. I'^rom this interesting and important witness UiUch 
 information about tlu^ Fi'anklin ])art\' was gained, ^\'hen 
 (luite a little boy he had seen some white men alix'e, and fi'om 
 the dc.-cri])tion it miglit have been Lieutenant Back and his
 
 ;>J8 THE GREAT WHITE NORTU 
 
 party. Year^^ later, he saw a white man dead in the i)unk 
 (jf a big -iii]), whieh was fruz('n in near an island alj(jut fi\'o 
 miles west of ( d'ant Point on Adelaide Penin:-ula. lie and Ins 
 s(jn had >een the tracks oi white men (jii the mainland. The 
 natives had Ixjarded the ship at intervals, and, not kn(jwing 
 Ikjw to use the do(jrs, had cut a hole in the side on a level 
 with the ire and entered for tlie purpose of stealing wo(jd 
 and irc^n. In the following spring, the ship had hlled with 
 water and sunk. There were evidences that people had lived 
 aboard the ship, a- some cans of fresli meat mixed with tallow 
 were found. There were knives, forks, spoons, joans, cups, 
 and plates aboard, and afterwards a few articles were found 
 on shore after the \'ess('l had gone down. 
 
 An(jther nati\'e described seeing two boats on the Back 
 River containing white men, and he also saw a ;-tone nujnu- 
 ment on Ahjntreal Island containing a ])Ocket knife, a pair of 
 sciss(;rs, and >om(> hsli hooks, but no pa])ers (.)f anydescri})tion_. 
 
 After an encampment of two days and a half. Lieutenant 
 Schwatka c(jntinu(Ml his j(jurney accompanied I)}' some of 
 ttie<e naii\'es as guides. 
 
 In nati\-e ('ncamj^ments l)e\'ond Ogle I'oint and Puchardson 
 I^)int, an (dd woman wa- found who ])roved an inleresting 
 witne-< : -lie had been one (d' a party who had met some of the 
 sin'\'i\'oi'- of the Ert^)iis ;uid Tiu-rnr on \\'a-hinglijn Way. Slie 
 de-cribe(l >eeing ten white meni flragging a sledge v.'ith a b'()ut 
 on it. The Iimiut< enc;un])ed near the white men and stayei. 
 in their C(i!ni)an\" alnjut fi\"e days. The natix'e- had \\\\\c( 
 some -ea.l~ which they -luu'efl witli tluMvliite men. In j'eturn 
 t!ie old woman'- ]in<b;in(l had Itecn gi\-eii a knife and olhei 
 articic- now lo-t . The wtiite men look'(vl \-e''\- tliin, and theit 
 mouth- Avere dvy and hard and blacj^. The native> mo\-(M 
 oil. bm the while Jiicu could not kee]) u]) Vv-itli them, am 
 i'(-niaine(| behind. The following' -])ring. the oM AVonian h:e 
 .-(■(■n a tout standing on tla; shore at the head oi Teri'or Pax
 
 .sr7/ir.t77vM*.S SEARCH FOR FRAyXLIX llECORDS 339 
 
 111 it were (l(>a(l bodices, and outside were otliors covered with 
 sand. There was no ilesli on tlicin, — notliing but liones and 
 clotlies. Al)out the tent were knives, forks, spoons, watches, 
 and many books, Ijesides clothing and other jKU'sonal articles. 
 
 Lieutenant Schwatka visit(xl the cairn erected by Captain 
 llall over the hones of two of Franklin's men, near the Pfeffer 
 Kiver; a few relics were gathered uj) in the vicinity of Ade- 
 laide Peninsula, one a bunk fixture with the initials "L. F." 
 in brass tacks upon it. 
 
 ( 'apelliM'schel, on King William Island, was reached in June. 
 Lieutenant Schwatka made a thorough examination of the 
 western shore of the island as far as Cape Felix. At Cape 
 Jane Franklin, Captain Crozicr's camp was found, Avhere the 
 entire company of the tvro abandoned ships had remained 
 some time ; sti'ewn al)out Avere many r(dics of the party anrl 
 the grave of Lieutenant Irving. Cult buttons were found 
 among the rotting cloth and mould at the bottom of the grave, 
 and u])on one of the stones at the foot of the grave was found 
 a silvcM- medal, two and a half inches in diameter, with a bas- 
 r(4ief portrait of (u>orge IV surrounded by the words — 
 
 Oeorgius IIII, D. C Rrittanniarum 
 Rex, 1820 
 
 and on th(> reverse^ a laur(-l wr(>ath suri'ounded by 
 
 Second Mathematical Prize, Royal 
 Xaval C'ollege 
 and inclosing 
 
 Awardtni to Jolin Irving, 
 Aridsummer, LS30. 
 
 Tn(> remains (,f ],i(Mit(niant hving were l^rought home for 
 
 'ii'ii'ial ill l^diMhiiriili.
 
 ;]4<i 
 
 TiiK cm: AT wrriTE yoirrii 
 
 The rccoi'd (Icpo.-itcd liv ArCliiitock (jii llie 3(1 of June, 
 1>.V.), wu.- •d\>'~) I'uuiid : iinich (jf it wa< illr^ihlc and the cairn 
 in \\ liicli it liad Ijccn d('j)(jsit('<l had hccn dcstroxcd l.)\' native^. 
 
 The return from Kin<^' William Land was started Septem- 
 her ]*,). It will he I'cmemljei'ed that ioY months the party 
 had sul)>i>Ted eniirely on game fcnmd in the locality, that 
 their original su])pl\' of pro\isions had lasted a little more 
 than thirty day-, and that the return Avas in the face uf the 
 fast approaching Vvinter. F(jrtunately, reindeer were seen 
 dail\' in immense lierds. 
 
 "We cut (juantities oi reindeer tallow with our meat," 
 remai'k> ( lilder, '"prohahh' alxjut half our dail\' f(jod. Break- 
 fast is eaten raw and fr<jzen, but we generally ha\'e a warm 
 nu'al in the ex'cning. Fuel i- hard to obtain, and con-ists 
 entii'el}' of a \'ine-like mcj-s called ik-sh(>ot-ik. lieindeer tal- 
 low is abo used f(jr a light. A small flat stone st'r\'es for 
 candle-sticl^, on wliich a lump of tallow is placed. clo>e to a 
 pifce of fibrou- m(j>s called mun-ne. which is useil for a wick. 
 d"he tidlow meltin.g runs down ui)on the -tone and i- imniedi- 
 aii'l\" ab-orbf-d l)y the moss. Tliis niakes a ver\' cheerfiil and 
 ])ii'a-ani li'iht. but i- most exasjX'i'ating to ;i hungry man, 
 a.- it >mclb cxactl;/ like fr\'ing nu-at. 1-^ating such ([Uantitie.- 
 of iailoA\' i.< a great bf-nefii in tliis cliniate. and wo can ca-ilx' -ce 
 the cifcct of it in tlie C(.)mfort with wliich wc meet t!;'"' (-(/id."" 
 
 Directing hi- coiu'se t'jwartl the ( hv^at li^li-ljac]-; I{i\-cr, 
 Liculcnant ScliAvatka began its ;i-cent in \o\'cmbt'r. The 
 C(jld wa- inten-e, from 21)^ t(.) 70^ l)cl(jw zero. 
 
 ■'A\'e found the travelling on ]^)ack's Pd\-er mucli more to- 
 ri iou- than Wc had ant ici]")al c(l."' wi'ite- (lilder, " owing to the 
 b::!'c ice ]\\ the \-icinit\' of the o])(-n-wa1er rajjid- aiid 1hc in- 
 li-M-i' cnM v.-h!c!i ].;cpt the air hlled with mimite ]);U't icle- (jf 
 i"e from ihe fri-e/inu' of the >ieam of tlie opi-n watei'." 
 
 ( Ml Di^ceiiiber lN. 1s7s. Lieuf'tntnt Schwatka decided to 
 abandon tra\'el on the ( Ireat I-'i-h-liack bix'er. owiim' to tlic
 
 SCIIWATKAS SEARCH FOR FRANKLIN RECORDS MX 
 
 scarcity of game in the vicinity. The Innuit hunters liaving 
 reported tlie land sledging in good condition toward tlic 
 soutlieast, — iiideed, much better than upon the river, — and 
 indications ]5ointing to an aljundance of game in that direc- 
 tion, the party immediately struck out for Depot Island. 
 
 The extreme cold experienced at this period of the journey 
 was trying beyond expression, and had a serious effect upon 
 man and beast. Even iron and wood were affected, strong 
 oak and hickory breaking to the touch like icicles. It was a 
 matter of great difficulty to keep the guns in working order, 
 and the war}- game would hear the sound of the crunching of 
 the hunters' tread on the snow at long distances. 
 
 "I have frecjuently heard," remarks Gilder, "the crunch- 
 ing of the sled runners on the brittle snow — a ringing sound 
 like striking bars of steel — a distance of over two miles." 
 
 The mean temperature for December was —50.4° Fahren- 
 heit, the lowest —09° ; on January 3 the thermometer fell 
 to the lowest point experienced by Lieutenant Schwatka's 
 party, and stood at —70° in tlie morning and —91° at five 
 o'clock in the afternoon. The party had long been with- 
 out tlie fatty food so essential to retain bodily warmth 
 in these fearful temperatures, and the dogs, although fed 
 upon frozeri reindeer meat, which, however, has but little 
 nourislinumt in it in that stat(^ for cold weather, began to 
 sicken and die. The small amount of blul:)ber now rc^naining 
 o!ily ser\-e(lfor lighting the igloos at night, and a cooked meal 
 could oul\' l)e indulged in on da^'s when the party remaininl 
 in cam}) and could gather moss for fuel. To add to the general 
 misery under whicli the return journey was continued, wolves 
 ^\■e^e frecjuently met with, so ravenous and Iwld that they at- 
 tacked the dogs for the purpose of eating the meat thro^\^l 
 out to them. On another occasion: — 
 
 ■'Toolooah was out hunting on the 2o(l of Fel)ruary," 
 writes (!il(l(>r, '"when a pack of about twenty wolves at-
 
 312 THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 tacked hini. lie junipiMl upon a bio- rock, which wa^ ?f)on 
 surrounded, and th^rc he t'lnight the sa\'ag(' hca>lsolT with tlie 
 butt of liis ,uun tnitil he ,ii;ot a sure sliot, wlien he kill(,'d one, 
 and while tlie others fou,u'ht o\'er and devoured the carcass, 
 he inad(> the best (;f the opjxjrtiuiity to get back into cam]). 
 It was a nio>t fortunate escaj)!'. as he fuUy reahzed." 
 
 T\v<jda\'s later, the same iiunter, while following a reindeer 
 not far from camp, was surprised to meet another Inntiit, 
 wh(jm lie h)unjl to be an a'^iuaintance : from this man he 
 learned that Depot L<land was about three da\-s' journey off. 
 1-Jeturninti; to cam]) with this haj)})y intelligence, it was decidrnl 
 to ])u-h on and lighten tlu^ >leda,(v~ at the ighjo of this native 
 the followin.g day. and then by forced marches reach Dep(jt 
 I.-land as soon a~^ ])()->ible. 
 
 Idie ])ros])ect of finding shi]:)s in tlie harl)our, with news 
 fr(jni home and, friends, did nnich t(j I'evive the ho])e and 
 s|)irits of tlie jadeil part>". and when, as the\' a])])roached their 
 destination. friendl\' nali\'es wvnt encountered, their joy 
 and emotion knew no Ijounds. Hut though their rece]nii)n 
 among the Iimuit< had been wai'm and }ieart\". their joy was 
 teni])ered ^vil h di-a])])oini meut to find tiiat the only >hii) in the 
 Ijay wa- at Marble I-laiid. and that ("ai)tain Jjari'y of the 
 E--thi r had failed to drposit at I)e])ot b-land a l!iou.-and 
 ]^)Ounds {){ bread and^ other |)r(.)\'ision< belonging to Lieutenant 
 Schwatka U])on which lie had depended, d'hi- failure to 
 kee]) a ])ronii-e I'e-ulted in tlie ])arty of tweniy-two hunii'ry 
 1 ra\'el!ei-.-- and nineteen -iar\'im!; dogs being foi'ced U])on the 
 ho-i)ila!ily of the natix'es, and in le-s than a week famine 
 exi-t ed in e;nii!). andi i he -ii uat ion 1 lecame de-i)e!'aie. Morms 
 had ])re\"enteil t he huiil hm of walru- and <eal. until t lie eight h 
 da\' ;!_i'ler ilieir arri\-al. In 1 hc^ meantime. J.ieu'eiiaiit 
 Scfiwatka u'ith two companion- liad ])U-}ied on to Marble 
 I-laiid for a--i-tance. .\h tiiey h.ad to eat wa< a little 
 v>'a!ru- iilul'l^'r, and in a forced mareli of tweiitv-four hours
 
 SCinVATKA'S SEAUCir FOR FR AX KLIN RECORDS 34-3 
 
 t]u\v ('()\-t'r('(l srventy-fivo miU^s. The (los]:ierate situation in 
 the scttlcnunit at Depot Island is describt'd by Gilder as 
 follows ; — 
 
 '■Pe()i)l(> spoke to each other in whispcn's, and everything 
 was ([uiet, save the never-ceasing and piteous cries of the 
 hungry children begging for food which their parents could 
 noi give them. Most of the time I stayed in bed, trying to 
 keep warm and to avoitl exercise that would only make me 
 all rhi> more hungry."' 
 
 l'\)ur days later, the lumters were successful in killing a 
 w;di'us, and this timely relic^f (niabknl the mcm1)ers of 8chwat- 
 ka's i)arty to continue their journcn' to ^larble Island. On 
 the first day out, they met a native with relief for the camp. 
 On Saturday, March 21, 1880, tlu; ship George and Mary was 
 I'eached, where a warm welcome awaited them from Captain 
 P)aker. When freed from th(> ice in the spring, this ship 
 ciU'ricd tlie ex]:)lorers back \o ci\'ilization. 
 
 Il will l)e remembered that, during the entire journey, 
 tiic relianc'^ for food for man and Ijeast was solely u})on the 
 resources of the country, that the white men livcnl exclusively 
 upon the saine far(^ as the Eskimos, and that the return 
 slodge j(jurney was accomi^lished during an Arctic winter 
 acknowledged to be of exce])tional scn'erity by the natives. 
 To kieutenant Schwatka's excellent mauagemcMit, and thor- 
 ough fitness for his ])osition as connnander, was due the suc- 
 cess i)i the ex])editi()n.. 
 
 " \\\ our mo\-(Mn(nits wcmh^ conducttMl in the dull, methodi- 
 cal. l)U:-iness-like m:umer of an arm>" on the march," writers 
 (iildei-. ■'lA'cry contingcMicy was calculated ujion and ])ro- 
 \-ided foi- 1 lefoi'ehaud, so iliMl ])ei'-onal adventures were al- 
 nii!<t unknown or too tri\'ial to mention." 
 
 Tlic !'e<ults of this remarkable journey are summed up 
 in a leailin.!.!; j-lnglish ne\vspai)er iiublisluMl September 20. bSS(). 
 
 ■"Lieutenant Schwatka has uo^v dissol\"ed the last doubts
 
 o44 THE CUE AT Willi E X OUT IT 
 
 that coiilil ha^•(■ been iVlt al)OUt the fate of the Fraiikhii 
 ('X]ii'ihtion. Pie has traced the one uiitrace(l ship t(j its 
 ,u;rav(_> hcvuiul the ocean, and cleared the rej)Utati(jn of a 
 hanule.-s people fr(.)in an undeserved reproach. He has 
 ,ui\-en to tlie iini)urie(l boru's of the crews ])r(jl)al)l\' th(^ only 
 safi'LLUard aji'ainst tleseci'ation by wanderin.u' wild bea<t- and 
 luM'illc-- Eskimos, which that frozen land allowed. lie 
 ha- brou.u'ht home for re\-erent >e})ulture. in a kindlier s(jil, 
 the one body which b(jre transj^ort. ( )ver the rest he ha- set 
 u]) monuments to empha-ize tlie undying' memory of tlieir 
 .-utVfi'i!m-< and their ex]iloit<. He ha- jzathered tokens by 
 which friends and relative- may identify tlieir dead, an(l re- 
 \-i-it in imairination the -pots in which the a-hes lie. Lastly, 
 Ic ha- cai'ried home with him matei-ial evidence to complete 
 the annals of Arctic exploration."
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 The Jcannctte expedition, 1879-1881. — In eommand of Captain 
 C(H)rge W. l)e Long. — Leave.s San Francisco, touclies at Ouna- 
 laska, August 2, readies Lawrence Bay, East Siberia, Au- 
 gust 15. — Last seen by whale bark Sea Breeze near Herakl 
 Island, Sei)teniber 2. — The Jeannette beset in ice-pack, Sep- 
 tember 5, never again released. — Daily routine of officers 
 and crew. — Shi]) springs a leak. — A frozen summer. — Sight 
 of new land. — A second winter in the pack. — The Jeannette 
 crushed. — Abandonment. — The retreat. — The fate of the 
 three boats. — Death of Do Long's party. — Melville's search. 
 
 The American Arctic expedition of 1879, commanded by 
 Lieutenant (!ieorge W. De Long of the United States Navy, 
 was eOinipped and financed l)y Ah'. James Gordon Bemiett, 
 proprietor of the Xeic York Herald. The ol)ject of the 
 ex])edition was to reach the North Pole by way of Behring 
 Strait. 
 
 The l)ark-rigged steam yacht of four hundred twenty 
 tons, Pandora, which had ah'eady seen considerable service in 
 Arctic water, was ptu'chased from Sir Allen A'otmg. By 
 s]MH'ial act of Congress slie was allowed to sail under American 
 colours, ])v navigated \)y officers of the United States Navy, 
 and to change her name from Pandora to Jcanndtc. The 
 Jeannette was reenforced and refittcxl for the arduous service 
 ex])ected of her, and her officers and crew, thirty-three in num- 
 ber, carefully scdected for their especial fitness for the under- 
 taking. 
 
 Atnong the number. Lieutenant De Long and Lieutenant 
 Cliipp, the ex(M'utive offic(n-, had secMi Arctic service while 
 
 345
 
 ■;4G THE CHEAT WJIITE y OUT IF 
 
 attached to the V . S. stcMiiicr JinniHn, \\\iic\\ liad l)ocn sent by 
 the <i'o\'en!iiieiit in :^earch of the PtAnris in 187>j : Eii,uineer 
 Aleh'ille had Ikmti attachcil to tlie l'i(jrc--:s^ Avliile that shij) had 
 ])een on the ^aiue (Traud. and Seaman Win. F. ('. Xin(h'inann 
 had .-ailed on tlie Pula.ris and heen a nienilxT (jf tlie ice-drift 
 party. 
 
 Ideiitenant J(jlnr W . OaMcidiower, U. S. X., wa.s ai)])ointed 
 ]ra\'igator; Dr. J. AI. Aniljlei'. surjie<jn: Jei'ome J. ('(diins, 
 nieteor(jlogi^t : Pia\-niond L. Xewconil), natm'aii.st; and 
 Wilhani AI. Dunhar, ice pilcjt. 
 
 The Jfinnicltc l(;fi San Id'ancisco Jiil}' 8, and ni(jved <Iowly 
 to^vard the ( lolden ' hite aniii.l th(- clieer.-^ and \va\'in,ti' of hand- 
 kerchiefs frtjin tl)ou-and> of sjx'ctators on the wharves and 
 (jn Tel(-,ii'ra]jh Ililh A >adute cjf ten frun- ^va< tired from Fort 
 Point, v,-liil(; a con\-(\\' (jf whit (.'-.-ailed craft (jf the San Franci^C'O 
 Yacht ("lul) e.-cf)rted her out ri) lh(' l)r(ja.d Pacific. Pu!'-uin,<i 
 lier cour.-e. the Jcf'/iueUc made f(jr Ourudaska, on(^ of the Ak.ai- 
 tian Inlands, which she I'eached Au<£U<t 2. There ackhtional 
 store.< were taken akoai'd. and four days later -he })ur.-ued her 
 coiu"-e, TO St. .Michael-, Ala-ka, ^\■here -lie anchoi'erl the 12th 
 (jf Au,L!,u-t . l)o,<i'- and. fur clotliin,u' were ])urcha-cd, and Uvo 
 Ala-kan-. Anciuuin and Ak'Xai, were liirc'd to a.ccomjjany tlie 
 ex])e(lil ion a- 'k.'i', dri\'er-. J)\' the 2")th of .-\uuu-t, .-lie had 
 rc'ached St. Fawrc-nce Ija\', hia-t Sikeria, Avlu^re Fieuterumt 
 I)e Fonii' k'Mfued t hat a. -hi]) >ui)])osed to lie the \'((j" had ii'(»ne 
 -oiith in .iuiie. She tlcn I'ouiided I'ia-t ('ape and toiu-h<'d 
 a1 < ';q)(' Serdzc. from A\iiich ])oint Fieutenant De Fonii' >ent 
 hi- la-t lei u-r home. 
 
 Faptain Ik-inie-; of the American whale kai'k' S( fi I'i(<:' -aAV 
 t he ,// r//,/,r ,'/( und_ei- full -mII and -team, on the 2d (;f :-^epi( -inker. 
 I^T'.t. akoiU fii'l\- mile- -(Hith of Ikrald k-iand : e-ntheiSdof 
 Scpieiniier -lie >\-a- -i-jlited ky ('aplain Keljey ni ike Park 
 /)'i-rn: ::][i\ a1 a'eii'U ike r-ame time (Aplain Ikaufii'y of tke 
 Ihlin M'li and -e\(-ral (jllier \vkal<'r.- -aw .-moke fr^jm the
 
 THE -JEANNETTE'' EXPEDITIOX, 1S7'J-18S1 347 
 
 Jeamieflc's sinuke-stack in range of Herald Island. She was 
 standing north. These were the last tidings heard of the 
 expedition by the outside world for o\'er two j'ears. 
 
 On the 5th of .Septeniljer, the JccuDictte, having boldly entered 
 the ice in an attempt to push through and winter at Herald 
 Island or W'rangell Land, was beset and never again left the 
 ic'e-])ack, but drifted at the mercy of this formidable foe, until 
 sli(> was crushed, and finally sank many months afterward. 
 
 Hoping against hope that a release would come, first in 
 the fall with t!ie promise of Indian summer, then in the spring 
 witli the breaking uj) of the ice-])ack. Captain De Long saw 
 the we(>k.-^ and months glide by, and followed the complicated 
 drift of the Jcdtinette, as she coquetted with her jailer, turning 
 and t^\ isting in her course, suffering the constant pressure of 
 her enemy, that hourly threatened her destruction and pur- 
 suing an uneven drift north and cnistAvard. 
 
 The dail}' routine during the long imprisonment was prac- 
 tically as follows : — 
 
 G A.M. Call executive officer. 
 
 7 A.M. Call ship's cook. 
 
 8:30 A.M. Call all hands. 
 
 9 A.M. Breakfast by watch(^s. 
 
 10 A.M. Turn to, clear fire-liole of ice, fill barrels with 
 
 snow, clean up decks. 
 
 11 A.M. Clear forecastle. All hands take exercise on the 
 
 ice. 
 
 11 :30 A.M. InsipcM'tion by (executive officer. 
 
 12 M. (let soundings. 
 
 1 ]>.M. One watcli may go l)e!ow. 
 
 2 P.M. Fill l)arrels with snow. Clear fire-hole of ice. 
 
 3 P.M. Dinner by watches. 
 
 4 P.M. Gall{>y fir(^s (nit. Car])enter and l)oatswain re- 
 
 port departments to executive officer.
 
 84,S THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 7 :'.■)() P.M. Sujipcr by watches. 
 
 10 p.-M. Pi])L' down. Xoisc and smoking to cease in fore- 
 
 castle, and all lights to be put out, excei)t one 
 burner of bulkhead lantern. Man on watch 
 re})ort to the executive. 
 During the night the anchor watch will ex- 
 amine the fires and lights e\-ery half hour, and 
 see that there is n(j danger from fire. All 
 buckets will l)e kej)t on the starl)oard side of 
 the quarter-deck, ready lor use in case of fire. 
 
 This programme was varicnl only as contingencic^s arose ; 
 by threatening disaster from ice ])ressure ; by the chase of 
 bears : the cai)ture of walrus and seals ; or by hunting pai'ties 
 who tra\-elle(l over the ice in search of game, oi' took a daily 
 run with the dogs. 
 
 ''Wintering in the ])ack," connnents De Long, "maybe a 
 thrilling thing to I'ead about alongside a warm lire in a com- 
 fortable home, but the actual thing is sudicient to make any 
 man ])i'cma1 urely old."' 
 
 On .buuiary 19, bSSO, owing to serious coiu'ulsions of the 
 ice, the .Jcanticllc s])!'ung a leak. The deck i)uni])s were at 
 once riggetl ;uid manne(l, and steam raised on tlie])ort boiler 
 to run the steam ])um])s. Thi> la>t caused grent diflicully 
 and delay, owing to the temperature in the fire-room being 
 — 2!)^, the sea-coc]<s being frozen, A\'hich necessitated poui'ing 
 liucket-; of water through the man-hole ])late:~, before the 
 j)unips could be o])erated. Through Meh'ille's indomil ;il)le 
 energy, the |)um])s wei'e effect i\-e by aftei'noon. 'i'lioiigli all 
 hamb wo!ke(l until midniglil. lhe serious situation w;i< only 
 l);iiM i:dly eonli'olled, the men \\'oi'king knee-deep in ice water, 
 Xindeiii.-nin st ;iiidinu down in the l'oi'e-])eak, studing oakum 
 ;i!id t;dlo\\- in ex'ei'y phice Fi'oni which w;itei' came. I'nder the 
 direclion of Lieutenant ( 'hipj), a bulkhead \\as built forward
 
 CAPTAIN GEORGE W. BE LOXG o49 
 
 of the forenuist, which partiall}' confined the water. In the 
 nieanthne, ]\lelville, working nigiit and day, rigged an economi- 
 cal j)unip with the Baxter boil(>r, with wliich the ship was 
 puniptnl for nearly eighteen months. 
 
 Lientenant Danenhower, who had heen suffering for some 
 time with his eyes, had l)ecome totally incapacitated for ser- 
 vice, and on the 22d of January submitted to an op(;ration 
 performed by Dr. Ambler. Two days later, De Long com- 
 ments on the gravity of his own responsibilities : — 
 
 ''My anxieties are l)eginning to crowd on me. A disal)led 
 and leaking ship, a seriously sick officer, and an uneasy and 
 terrible pack, with constantly diminishing coal pile, and at a 
 distance of 200 miles to tiie nearest Siberian settlement — ■ 
 these arc enough to think of for a lifetime." 
 
 The drift of the Jeannettc for the first five months had cov- 
 ered an imnuMise area ; she had approached and receded from 
 the one huntlred eightieth meridian, drifting Ijack to 
 within fifty miles from wher{^ she had entered the pack. By 
 th(^ .3d of May, however, fr(>sh southeast winds began, and 
 the ship took up a rapid and uniform drift to the northwest. 
 Hope for release, which had been buoyant in Alay, was deferred 
 mitil June, and when that month glided l)y with no signs of 
 lib(n-ati()n, it passed to July and gradually faded with the brief 
 passage of a frozen summer. The Jeannettc, again uncertain 
 in lier di'ift, added to the general disappointment of the com- 
 mandci'. Tlie ring of despair and realization of failure are 
 voiced in an entry August 12 : — 
 
 '■()])servations to-day show a drift since th(> 9th of five 
 and a half mih- to S. 38° E. The irony of fate ! How long, 
 () Lord, how long?" 
 
 On Septemb(M' 1, tlie Jeannettc for the first time since her im- 
 ])risonnu'nt stood on an wen keel ; ])ut four days later, one 
 yoav from tlu^ tim(^ she fle.ng Inn- fortunc^s to tlie enemy, sh(^ 
 was again held fast in its frozen grip. During the monlli she
 
 -5.)0 THE ailKAT WHITE yOllTII 
 
 was put in winter ([uartcrs i'or the second time. The ap- 
 pfoach of l!ie luni;; nit;-lit v»-ith its added anxieties brought 
 lilile ehaiige t(j the nienihers of the ex])e(htion. llie (jues- 
 tion of i'u(>i was the most sei'ious i)rohlem, and the amount 
 used was figured to th(^ most economical basis. \\'ear\' (hiys 
 (h'agged along without novelty or cliang(\ "So far as I know/' 
 writes l)e Long in January, LS81, "nc\-er has an Arctic expe- 
 dition l^ecn so un])roiit;i.ble as this. Peopk- l)es(>t in the ])ack 
 Ix'fore ha\'(^ always drifted s()me\vh(>re to some land, but we 
 ai'e drifting about like modei'n Idying Dutchmen, never get- 
 ting anywhere, but ahva\'s restless and on the in(jve. Coals 
 ar(^ buj'iiing up, hxjd being consumed, 1he ])um])s are still 
 going, and thirl \'-t hi'ce ])co[)le ;ir(> weai'ing out their hearts 
 and souls like \nvn doomed to im])ris()tunent for life. If 
 tliis next sunun(M' c(jmes and goes like the last "without an\' 
 I'esult, wiiat reasontible mind can be patient in conlempla- 
 lion of 1h(' future ?" 
 
 !''()ur long weaiy months wcM'e to (^lajjse before^ a relief 
 came to break t h.e monotonous situation. ( )n May 10, ISSl, 
 the .Icaiincllc stood iti latitude ~i'° V-V 20" X., longitude ItiT' 
 ").■)' 1.")" j'^., land ^\■as sighted to the westward, which ])ro\'ed 
 to be an island Hater n.amed Jeaimett" Island), the hi'sl that 
 had greeted tlie weary eyes of olIiccM's and men since A birch 2 ! , 
 bSS!), when tli(> sliij) had been in sight of Wi'a.ngell band. 
 On AFax' 2!, a second, island was s(-en. On ttu' Mist, Mei\ iile, 
 Dunl'M!', Xiiidemann, and thi'ee others st;ir1(Ml with a dog 
 sleil^'e and i)ri)\-isi()ns. for ww in\'esf igat ion of the newly dis- 
 coxcred inland. T'tie pai'ty landed (Mi .bine )!, Iioisted the 
 American flag, and forinal'y took poss(>ss!on of the land in the 
 n.ame of 1 he ( 'nited St.afes and gi\ ing it t lie nana- of Meurietta. 
 l-lanij. They bnilt a cairn ,and deposited ,a record. Tlie 
 joiH'ney h.ad be( n fr.aiight with great dangei' aiMl har(bhi]"). 
 "The ice be'\\-,'rn 1 he -liip ;ind bhe i-laml had been something 
 i'riglit ful," writiv- I )e bong. " .\!'i-r digging, !ei-i'\ ing and its-
 
 TlltJ '' JKAy^E'lTE'^ SLXKS 851 
 
 attciuuuit loadiiijj; and unloadiiij;', anu-bi'cakiiig hauls, and 
 ])a!iir-sirick('ii dogs niadf their joui'ucy ;i tcrrihly scn'ctc one. 
 Xear the island the iee was all ali\'e, and AIel\-ille left his boat 
 and supplies, and, carrying only a da}-'s pr(j\-isions and his 
 instruments, at the risk of his life went thi'(jugh the terrilde 
 mass, actually dragging the dogs, which i'rcjni fear r(4'used to 
 follow their human leaders. If this pcM'sistence in landing u))on 
 tills island, in spite of the superhuman dillicullies he encount- 
 ei'ed, is not reckoned a lu'ave and meritorious action, it will 
 not be from any failure on my part to ma]<e it kn(jwn." 
 
 Tiie approach of sipring had re\ealed Xo Dr. Ambler a ])ale 
 and stricken crcnv. Danenhower had long been n sufferer; 
 Lieutenant ("hi])]) was ill; Mr. Collins was recu])(M-ating slowly 
 from ;i >ovin-(- illness; Alexia, the Alaskan, was suffering from 
 ulcers, and others of the crew sliowed incij)ient signs of scurvy. 
 
 On. the 12th of June, 1881, while in T?"" bV north latitude, 
 and 1~)')° east longitud(\, the Jean /idle (\\])(M'ienced a final 
 })ressure from thf> ice, from which she sank within a few houi's. 
 As soon as it was realizcMl that Ium' fate was sealed, ordcas wer(^ 
 i--ued thai all ]irovi>ions, boats, etc., should be trans])orted 
 to a safe distance u])on the ice ; this was done v\'ithout con- 
 fusion or exciiement. " When the oi'der was gi\-(Mi to abandon 
 the shi])."' w'.'ites on(^ of the officers, " h(>r hold was full of watca', 
 and a- she was keeling twen1y-thi-ee degrees to starboard 
 at t!u> lini(> the watch was on tlie lower sid(> of the s]iar deck." 
 
 The UM'n ( ncam])ed u])on the ice, and by four o'clock on 
 the morning of the l^^th. "amid the nit t ling and banging of 
 her timbiMs and ironwork, the sjii]) righied and stood alm()>t 
 U])right, the lloe- that had come in and cru-heil her slowly 
 l)acked off, and >jie sank with -^lightly accelerated velocity; 
 the y;u-d arin> \\ei'e .-trip])ed and brok(Mi u])ward ])ai';illel to 
 the masts; ;ind so, like a gr'vit. gaunt skeleton clai)])ing its 
 hands ;ibo\-e its licad. >lie jjlungeil out of >ight . Thosc^ of 
 us who saw h(>r go down," adds Chief Laigineer Melville,
 
 352 THE a HEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 "tUd so with mingled feelings of sadness and relief. We 
 \ver(> now utterl}' isolated, beyond any rational hope of aid ; 
 wilh our proper means of escape, to which so many pleasant 
 associations attached, destroyed before our eyes; and hence 
 it was no wonder we felt lonely, and in a sense that few can 
 a])i)reciate. Hut we were satisfied, since we knew full ^\ell 
 that the slii})'s usefulness had long ago ])assed awa}', and we 
 could now start at once, the sooner the better, on our long 
 march to the south." 
 
 The following week was spent in i)reparations for the r(>- 
 treat; the route was laid due south, it being the hitention of 
 ('aj)tain De Long to make for the Lena Eiver, after a })rief 
 sto]) at the New Sil)erian Island. The day's march was ac- 
 com])lished under the most trying circumstances, the lateness 
 of the season and the ruggednessof the ice necessitating road- 
 making, bridging, and rafting, or dragging tlie loads through 
 shish and water tliat lay knee-deep in (he palli. The foot- 
 gear of tli(> men b(H'ame ])]'actically us(>less as a result of con- 
 stant wettings, and eveiy (hn'ice was r(>sort(\l to to k(H']) the 
 })are f(>et from contact- witli thc^ ice. "A large numlxM', " 
 wi'ites Mel\-ille, "'marched with their toes oi'ot ruding through 
 their moccasins ; some willi tlie 'up])ers' full of lioles, out of 
 which the water and slusli s])urt(^d at e\-er3- stc]). Yet no 
 one nnirnmre([ so h^ig as his feet wer(> cleai' of ice, and 1 ha\-e 
 here to sjiy tliat no shi])'s company ever endured such severe 
 toil with such li1tl(> c()m])laint. Another crew, ])erh;!])<, may 
 be found to do as well ; !)ut better, ne\'er !" 
 
 Nine loaded sledges and fi\-e boats carrying >ixty (la\'s' 
 pi'o\'i>ioiis, had to be hauled across tju^ moving floes in the 
 .■■ourse of the da\'. 'I'he road had to be t:-;i\-elled no h^-s than 
 thirteen times, s('\-en lime- with load< and six limes empty 
 handed, thus walking 1 w ('nt>'->ix miles in making an ad\'ance 
 of two. Th(> sick, wit h t he hospital stores and tents, wei'e un- 
 der the care of Dr. Ambler. Thus tlu- march over the fi'ozen
 
 
 Frnn, „ i,nrfn,:t /,/ Ih. ,>.,s.,.s:, 
 ( 'Ai'TMx ( ;. W, I)i: L(i.\,, 
 
 ij A. O/., rt;. h'sq.
 
 DAILV liOCTIXE OF OFFIL'FAIS AM) CHEW 353 
 
 occvui ^v;ls continued for several weeks wlien, io the conster- 
 nation and dismay of Captain De Lon<^, lie found upon taking 
 observations, that b}' the northerly drift of tlie pack they 
 were losing ground daily and had drifted some twenty-four 
 miles to the northwest. This disheartening intelligence was 
 ke[)i from the men, with the (wception of Melville and Dr. 
 Am-liler. Changing their course t(; south-southwest, the 
 jjarty ecjntinued their slow and wearisome progress until the 
 11th or 12th of July, when the mountainous peaks of an 
 island gladdened the eyes of the shipwrecked crew. Inspired 
 to renewed effort, the men pushed on, finally landed, and 
 Captaiti De Long took possession in the name of God and the 
 rniicd States, namii;g this ne\v territory Bennett Island, 
 rsine da}"s were spent (jn this island, during which the boats 
 we!-e I'epaired. A cairn was luiilt and a record left. The 
 litial depai'ture from Bennett Island tocjk place August G. 
 In the meantim(\, the brief sumn:ier had gone; already young 
 ice wa- i'(jrming, and the streams and rivulets tliat had glad- 
 dened {l.(^ men's eyes upon their arrival liad disappeared as 
 t!ie cold gras]-) of winter prepared to hold them fast. 
 
 It luid bc(>n (lr-cide(l by Ca])tain De L(jng t(Miividethe party 
 into tlu'ec- secti<jii-, and to ]")roceed by boats; to this end Lieu- 
 t(uant ('hi])]> was assigiied to the >econ(l cutter in connnand 
 of nin<- men : Chief l']ngineer Melville to the whale-boat in 
 command of nine men. D(> Long reserving the command of 
 the (ir-t cutter und twelve men. Instructions to Chipp and 
 ]\Ielville directed that tliey should keej) cl()s(> t(j th(^ captain's 
 boat, but if tiii'ough accident the\" should liec(jme se])ai"ated, 
 to mal<e their way south to tlie coast of SilxM'ia and fijUow 
 it to the Lena River, then a.-cend the Lena to a Paissian settle- 
 ment. 
 
 For ilie next eig]ite(>ii days, tlie retreat was made by work- 
 inii' througli lead^. huulinu' lh(> boats out, and mal^in^ iiortages 
 acro-< floe ])ieces that barre(l their ])rogress ; and occasi(_)nally
 
 ■ ]5\ THE <niEAT WHITE MORTII 
 
 ;is tnuch us li'ii luih's Avas made a clay to the soutluvest. Vex- 
 atious (l('la\'s wei'e caused by the fast a])])njachini;- winter, and, 
 upon reai'hhisi; Thadeouiski, one of the New Siherian Islands, 
 the ])ui('!i of dinruiishin<i; rations l)(^ji;an sorely to be felt, 
 (lame, which had been occasionally secured durinj^' the early 
 ])art of the retreat, had b(>en scarce of late, and the outlook 
 be.iran to take on the i^ray as])ect of a desperate futui'e. 
 
 From iKjw on, the retreat was one lonji, despcirate struj>;<i;le 
 a<2;ainst famine and ti;ales and i)iercin«>; cold. Describing the 
 exi)(M'iences of Se])teml)er 7, Melville writes : — 
 
 "Standing to the southward, we shortly came \\\) Avith a 
 lai'ge floe ali\'e with small rtmning hummocks and str(>am ice. 
 It was blowing stifll>', the sea was lumt)y, and our boats ca- 
 reering at a livel\' rate. Pumping and bailing to keep afloat, 
 we suddenly came unawares ujion th.e weathtM' side of a great 
 iio(^ piece, o\-er which tlie sea was l)reaking so teri'il)ly that h)r 
 us to come in contact with it meant certrdn destruction. It 
 was floating from four to six fe(>t al)()\'e watca', its sides either 
 }>erpen(hcular or undei'shot by the action of the waves, which 
 dashed madix' o\'er it, the surf flying in the air to a height of 
 twenl\' [viA ; and, wliei'e the sea had honeycom])e*l it and 
 eaten holes u])wai'd through its lhickn(>s<, a thousand water- 
 spouts c;ist forth spray like a school of whales. Hound about, 
 down sail, and awa\' we pulle(l foi' our li\-(v. l)e Long, being 
 fifty or a !iundr(>(l y;u'(ls in ad\'ance of me, and so nnich nearer 
 dangci', h;iiled ni(> to take him in tow, A\'hich 1 did, and to- 
 gether we i)Mrely matiaged to hold our i)recarious position. 
 The second cuttei' was away behind ngain, but npon coniiug 
 up seized \\\r wh;i !e-bo;n 's ])aintei'; and so we sti'uguled in 
 line, ;ind at last succee(le(| in cl(>aring the weather eilge of the 
 lleie. 1 1 w;i< ;i loim' pull ;ind ;i h.'ird ])ull. The sea I'nai'ed and 
 1 liiin(|ei'(>d auain-t I he eoM, l)le:!k mass of ire, flying away 
 from ii like >nowflake~^ and fi'ee/.ing a< it flew; the sailors, 
 lilindeil by the wind and spi'ay, pulled manfully at the o:U's,
 
 CHIEF EXGIXKKU MELVU.LE ;3oo 
 
 their bare iiancls frozen and bleediiif^- ; and the boats tossed 
 ea])riciousIy about with the wild waves and the uneciual 
 strain of the tow-hne. Drenched to the skin In' the cruel 
 icy seas whicli poured in and nigh filled the boats, the over- 
 taxed men, as they faced the dreadful, d(,'ath-dealing sea and 
 nuu'derous ice-edge, found new life and strength and per- 
 formed wonders. . . . 
 
 ■"Our boats were well bunched togt^ther, and although it 
 was now pitch dark, we could yet for a while discern each other 
 looming up out of the l)lack water like spectres, and plunging 
 over the crests of the waves. Presenth' the seconrl cutter 
 faded awa\ , but as mine was the fastest boat of the three, I 
 (experienced no difficulty in following J)e Long. Indeed, in 
 my anxiety to o])ey the order 'Keep within hail,' I at times 
 bai'el}' esca])(Hl running the first cutter down. . . ."' 
 
 "Tcnvai'd midniglit,'' continues ]\Ielville, "we approach(>d 
 tlu^ weather e(lg(> of the pack, the roar of the surf reaching our 
 (\irs long ])eforc we could see the ice. I involuntarily haide(l 
 tlie whal<'-boat closer on the wind, and by so doing lost sight 
 of tlie fir.-l cutter, but tlie terrible noise and confusion of tlie 
 sea warrHMl me beyond dcjubt of the deatli that lay under our 
 1(M'. Pi'esentl>' out of the darkness there ap])eared the lun'rid 
 white wall of ice and foam. Xot a second too soon. 'Ready 
 a!=out, and out with tlie two lee oars if shf> misses stax's.' 
 T\\\<. of coui'sc, from tlie h(>avy sea, she did ; and Cjuick as 
 tiiov-ght my oi'ders were obeyed. As we turn(H| s1oav1\' I'ound, 
 a w;i\'e >w(>pt across our starl)oard f[uarter filling the boats 
 to the scats. Yc (lodsl v.'hat a cold bath! And now v:v 
 were in the nn'dst of small str(^annng ice, broken and triturat(Ml 
 into ])()-h by the sea :md grinding Hoe-, ;uid tliis wa> hurled 
 bac!< ui)on us by tlie reflex water and eddying current in the 
 rear of tlu' ])ai'k, which wa- rai)idl\' UKuing liefore tlie wind. 
 With Ija.ilers. baifk'Ms, and pump< d.oing thcii- uttiuwt. the two 
 {'■e oars lironuh.t ns aa'ound in a'ood time, and. we fi!(>il aAva,^' I'U
 
 ■]o{] Tin-: CllKAT wniTK noutii 
 
 the other tack, the waves still leapiii";- playfully in as tlio\ig;h 
 to kee]) us l)us\- and spice our misery with the zest of (lan<;('i'. 
 
 "When (la\' broke, neither of our companion hoats was in 
 sij2,iit. llie wintl had moderated ^reatl}', and we w(4'e now 
 in (iui(^t water amon^' the loose ])ack, - - p(M'ha])s the most 
 miserable looking collection of tnorlals that e\'er crowded 
 shivering together in a heap. A\'(> looked, indeed, so utterly 
 forlorn and wi-etch(>d that just to re\-i\-e and thaw, us it were, 
 my drowned and frozen wits, 1 bursl forth into frenzied song. 
 Of a truth, as we sat shaking tluM'e, our situation was nigh 
 (U^sjK'rate ; we were down to an allowance of a "|)int of water 
 to each man ])er(la\', now that J)e Long was se])ai'ated from 
 us ; but u])on the suggest ion of some one in the boat, I set up 
 the fii'e-])ot and made hot tea. We were thus bi-eakfasting 
 when, the first cutter ]io\-(^ in view. I at once joined com- 
 ]^an}', and shortl}' aftei' the second cutter mad(~ her appear- 
 ance and we Aver(> again t()g(^th(>i-. The s(>a soon calmed, 
 /r.s )nis(i'tiblcs thaAved out, the morning became as pleasant as 
 th(» inemorable May mornings at hom(\ and wt> again were 
 ])right and alive with ho])e."' 
 
 The following day, Se])t(>mber 12, aft(M' a night's encani])- 
 ment U])on a floe, the ])ai'ty landed in S(Muen()\-ski, and \\\v 
 hunters had the good hirtune to >ecui-e a deer, anIucIi ])ro- 
 vided them for the fii'st time in many moidhs a full and deli- 
 cious m(>al. Cape P)arkin, tlu^ point of destination, was j'oimd 
 to l)e onl;,- ninety- miles disbant, ;ind, aftei- a da\"'s I'est and 
 depositing a record a1 Semeno\'>ki Island, the ])arty em- 
 barlced once moi'e full of hope and cour.age lh;i'. ('ape l^arkin 
 might be reachefl ;d'ter one more night ;it sea. 
 
 The three boats sp<'d foi-wai'd to the southwest in a rising 
 sea. the g;ile inci'ea>e( !, .and the he;i\'>' seas grew liourix' moi'e 
 formid.able ;ind threatening. De bong and ('hi|)p wei'c ex- 
 periencing gi'eat difliiailty in the nian.agemeiit of tlieii' o\cv- 
 loaded boat .--. Alebille, in his endeaxoui' to obe\- i he (wder to
 
 A SHCOM) nLXTKR JX THE PACK oOi 
 
 koc]) within liaiL ^\•as all hut s\vaiii])ctl by X\\v fury of 1he waves 
 as th('\' hr()k(> oxht the whak>-l)oat. 
 
 In an rndcavour to answer si<i;nals from I)(^ Long, Melville 
 sliout(Ml down the wind that \w nuist run or swani])— De Lonj;' 
 wa.vinl hack, inotionina; him onward. Alelville hoisted sail, 
 shook out oiK^ reef, and the whale-])oat shot forwai'd like an 
 arrow. De k(ni,iu; then signalltxl (dii])p; for an instant tlie 
 second cutter was seen in the dim twilight to rise on the crest 
 of a wav(\ then sink out of sight; once more slie appeared; a 
 trcMuendous sea bi'oke over her; a man was seen striving to 
 fr(>e the sail: slu> sank again from view, and, though seas rose 
 and fell, one aft (m- another, the second cuttc^r with all on Ijoard 
 was never sinm again. 
 
 The \vhale-l)oat ])lunged on at a spanking rate and was 
 soon out of sight of De Long. Tluuiuestionnow was whether 
 slie wotild t)utli\'e th(> gale — and to insiu'e gr(^ater safety 
 Mei\-ille ordei'ed a drag anchor to be made of t(>nt poles 
 W!M;g!it(>d with such available^ material as came to hand. 
 
 ^\'hat a nigh.t, lying anchor(-(l at th(> mercy of the gal(\ 
 l)airing out with i)iunps, buckets, and i)ans the heavy seas 
 as they broke o\-er the boat ; hungry and thirsty men, soal^ed 
 to the skin with r(>peated ice-cold l)alhs, half frozen from 
 ex])()sure to the icy blasts. A little whisk(\v was all they had 
 (hu'ing that fearful night, and in th.e morning a (jiuirter of a 
 l)ourid of ])emmican s(>r\-ed as brc^akfast to the wrc^tclietl crew. 
 The gale still raged about tliem with tmabattnl fmy. Btit 
 by afternoon it had abated sufhcieiUiy for them to get tntder 
 wa\-. and tlu^ morning of tlu^ 14th fotmd tlu^n sailing through 
 young ic(\ and in shoal watc^rs, \\iiich t]ie\' a^"oid(M.l by stei^ring 
 to the eastward all tln\'. Sh.ort rations of a ([uarter of a pound 
 ot i)i'mniican thrin^ tinu's a day, without water, was all they 
 iiad. and an(.1l!(M' misc^ralk^ night settled tijion the toilers, 
 as they bailed th:(^ watei'-logged whale-b.cat. the water turn- 
 ing (() slusli the miirute it was in the boat.
 
 ;3.')8 
 
 rilK (;l!EAT WHITE yoliTII 
 
 The nicii were now iin(l(-r(i'(nn<i >('\-cr(> suftVrin,<2;s from thirst. 
 The lohowi])o; ( hi y thcx' v^crc I'oiluiiatc in rcachinji one rncniTli 
 of the Lena l{i\'(>r, and, ])r(jc('c(hn,a; u]) tliis sti'cani, they dis- 
 cniharlccd for th(^ first time, after live thiys of nii.-ery. Tak- 
 inu.- shehei' in a (U'serted hnt, lately \"a('ated \)y nati\-e<, th(\v 
 thaAved their achin<i- bodies around a checu'iu'i' camp fire, 
 l)r(",\'ed a ])ot of tea, and ate of a stew made of a few birds sli(;t 
 at Semenovski Island, lUit their swollen limbs, blistered and 
 eraclced hand>, ^'ave them excrueiatinii' ])ain, and ariother 
 sleej)less niulit adcUnl to their misery. Two more toils(jme 
 da>"> were .-ixnit paUinji' u]) the river and encamping at night 
 imder a cold and cheerless >ky. 
 
 On the I'.Hdi of Se])t ember, ISSl, Alelviile's ])arty had the 
 good fortime to fall in with natives, wlio ti'eated th(> forlorn 
 men with great kindness and geruM'osity, and on tlie 2(ith of 
 Se])tem! :(>r they I'f^ached the liu^sian village (jf ( ieem()via!ock(\ 
 v.iiere tliey subsi--t(Hl imtil they wer(> able to connnunicate 
 A\ith the comniandarit at Belun. 
 
 i'jxni the sej)aration of the Ixuits already descrilxMl. De 
 Long experienced the same tlu'eatened dest ruction of the first 
 cutlei' that had caused Melville so much an.\iet\' in the whale- 
 JHKit. Aftei' three miserable da\'s and nights of exposure to 
 the merrile<< sea^, he decided to make a huuling by Avadiiig 
 a-hoi'c Se])iember 17, at a ])oint To" 2')' north latitude, '2i\° 
 ^;0' ea>t longi; ude. ()wing to t h(> shaHo\\' \\'at er. ir wa< f<;und 
 iKce— a!'\" to abandon tin' boat, and the wretched, enfeebled 
 ])ar1y, de-t;tUM\ -a\'e for four da\'--' scant ])ro\"i-ion<, began 
 tlc'ir f;il;d m;trch on the inho>])itabl(> tundra of ni.Tthiei'n 
 >ib''!-i;i, in -eiircli of a sfttlemcid ninety-fix'e mile< di-i ;uit . 
 l)e boiig s I'ecord of thi> wear\' tramp is one long auouy of 
 a -lewiy pej'i-liinn' pMrty. l-A'crything Avas abandoni'd ihat 
 ■\\a- no! ;ib-()lu1i-ly nece--~ary, luit in >]n\r of jiiihtened load^. 
 the h;d!'-lV(.zen nn ii hnipcd :ii!d l:(>b.! Jcil >!i>\\iy alonu, falling 
 ill 1 bi'ii' ; rack-, the A\-(/alxer a — i-ted i ly the .-tron.ger, but (A'cu
 
 .1 SFjjoyi) wrxTEn /.v the pack 859 
 
 th(ni the ^touikI covcrcil was inconsidci-able, so that on Scp- 
 t('mlK>r 21, upon reaching some deserted huts, ])e Long- 
 records : -- 
 
 "According to my accounts we are now thirty-seven miles 
 awa}- from the n(\\t station ! and eighty-seven from a i)robal)le 
 settlement. We hav(^ two (hiys' rations aft(n- to-morrow 
 niorning"s breakfast, and we have three lame men who c;in- 
 not make more than five or six miles a day ; of c(jurse. I 
 cannot lea\'e them, and the}' certainly cannot keep uj) with 
 the pace nc^cessary to tak(\'" 
 
 The hunt(M's were fortunate in securing occasional deer, 
 but the unfortunate c(jnditi(jn of Erickson, wlujse frozen feet 
 n^'cessitated the amputation of his toes, retarded their ])i-og- 
 ress, and ()ct(.iber came in cold and Ijlustery to find tiie mis- 
 eral)le party still far away from human aid. For nine days 
 more they struggled akjug the l)arren shores of the Lena ; 
 game failed, and their food was exhausted. Erickscjn died 
 and was buried in the ri\-er. Xindemann and Xc^ros startecl 
 on a forced marcli for assistance from the nearest settlement 
 at Ku ALirk Surka : they carried their l)lank(^is, one rifle, 
 forty rounds of ammuniticjn, and two ounces of alcohol — Init 
 no fuod ! 
 
 < )]i October 10. De Long makes the following entry : — • 
 
 "()n( lnmdred and twentieth day. Last half (junci^ alcohol 
 at .">.;)() ; at (i.oO sen<l Alexey oil' to look f<jr ptarmigan. Kat 
 deei'skin sc]'a]^>. Yestei'day moi'ning ate my deerslviji hjot- 
 nips. Light S.S.I-], air-. Xot very cidd. Lhider wa\- at 
 eitihr. Li crossing creek three of us got wet. P)uilt fire and 
 dried out. Ahead again 'imtil e!e\'en. Used up. Pjuilt 
 tire. Alade ci driidv out of the tea-le;ives from alcoliol bottle. 
 < *u again at noon. l'"resh S.S.W. wind, drifiiiu! -now. \ cry 
 hard Li'oiiig. Lee begii-iii^ lo be left. Sojue littli' beach, ami 
 then li.ug >treti-lie< of hiu'h bank. ]Harmig;in ti'ack- ])lei;t i- 
 ful. l-'oHowinu' Xindemann"s tracks. At three halted, useil
 
 :ji;0 THE GiiEAr white xohth 
 
 up : crawlcil iut(j a IkjIc in the bank, (•(jllcctcd wood, and built 
 fire. Alcxcy awa}' in ((ucst (jf uainc. X(.)iliin,i;: for sujjper 
 exc('])t a spoonful of gl\'c('rine. All hands weak and feeble 
 but cheerful — ( iod liel]) us." 
 
 Three da}'s later there i< an entry. ■"We are in the hands of 
 (iod. and unless Hl' inter\'enes we are lost." 
 
 On October 10, the faithful hunter, Alexey, brr)ke down, 
 and The next day he dietl. On the 21>t Kaack Ava> fotnid dead 
 between the captain an<! Dr. Ambler, and about noon Lee 
 died, and on Oct(jber 22 l)e Lon<i' writes : -- 
 
 "One liundred and thi;ly— econd, day. Too weak to carry 
 the bodies of Lee and Kaack out on the ice. The doct(jr, 
 Collins, and I carried them around tlie C(jrner out of sight ; 
 then my eye ci(jsed u])." 
 
 On ALjiuhiy. Octobc^r 24. thei'c is the >im]de entry: "One 
 liundred and Thirt\'-foui'th day. A hard night." And three 
 day- later. "Iversen brokcii down." and the next day, "I\'er- 
 sen died during early m(jrning." < )n ()ctober 2',*. "<)ne hun- 
 dred and thirty-ninth da\'. I)re--!er ddfd during night."' 
 On ()ctober oO. Sunday, tht* last record ()f the brave Dc Long 
 wa< wi'ittcn: "One hinidrcd audi fonictli day. I^oyd and 
 Oortz died during night. Mr. ( 'ollin- dying." 
 
 T!ie forced march of Xindemaim a!id Xoros i- one of the 
 mo.-t remai'kable tests of human -ufiVritm' and enduranc(> in 
 tlic am I ah of Arctic hi<tor}'. It i- a I'ccoi'd of t ra\'c|liiig acro-s 
 the \viIdo:-n('<s witlioul food exce])t a- tlicy lirouirht diown 
 an occasional ])tarmigan and Icmminu : -ighting witli the cycs 
 of -^tarx'ing men a lierd of deer A\Licli ficd Ix'l'ore tlie^" ciniid 
 a])proach -iilticicnt ly near to fire at them : -t i-ug'ihn.u' tlirouuti 
 ^\'r(■tcll(■d day- to ci'aAvl iiUo a -now liojc at niutit, where they 
 la\' 1 he night t li rough Avet to tlie wai-t . ahernately >lcepin'i for 
 h\'e-niinut e int erwil-, one man I'ou-inii- 1 he ot her t liat he miuht 
 knock hi- ff'Ct t ou'et her lo kee]) 1 hem fri mi freeziim' and t alvinu' 
 up the m.arcli upon t he -H'enu'i h of an imu-ion cif Arctic willow
 
 A SKCOXD U'lXTER IN TIIK PACK -K')! 
 
 tea and l)(X)t-sole. Crossing a c()U]:)l(^ of st regains tlu^y s()u<i;ht 
 shelter from a rajijing gale in a wretcliecl hut wliere a refuse 
 l)ile of dcvY hones were hurnecl and eaten. Near another hut 
 was found a littl(> rotten fish — this .eked out with strips cut 
 from seal-skin clothing was all that stayed the pangs of hunger 
 a;^ tliey marched on. The IGth of October found their 
 str(>ngth fast waning. Xoros was complaining of illness and 
 s})itting blood. Two days later they reached a ])lace set down 
 on later ma])s as Ikilcour ; it consisted of thi'ee (k^serted huts. 
 
 '"Near by was a half kayak with something in it. Xoros 
 tasted it. It was blue moulded and tastel(\~;s to them, but it 
 was fish, and th(\v took it with them to th(^ otluM' huts. They 
 found nothing morc^, and aft(^r gathering some drift-wood tlun' 
 made a fire aiid tried to find some fcxxl in the mouldy fish." 
 
 On h'riday, Octobc^r 21, tlu^y were too weak to push on, 
 but s])(Mit the day in cai'cful husbanding of llieir ri^sources. 
 Measuring their fish, they found that by taking each two tin 
 cu])fuls a day they had enough for tern (la\'s. r^cwing u]) the 
 fi-<h in their foot-nips and sktill caps, they arranged straps to 
 thes(^ bundles for carrying. 
 
 The next day, while still too weak to ])1'oc(hm1, they heard 
 a noise outsidi^ tlu^ hut, like a flock of ge(\<e sweeping by, and 
 Xindtnnann, seizing his gun looked 1hi-ough tiie crack of the 
 door. Scnnng something mo\"ii!g wb.ich he thought v>-vvc 
 reind(HM', Xindemaim advancc^d. wluni tlu^ door suddenly 
 op(Mied and a man stood on the tlireshold. Seeing the I'ilfe, 
 thi' man fc^ll upon liis knees, but whe!i Xind(Mnami rt\issur(Ml 
 him b\- throwing th(^ W(>ai)on to one sid(\ friendly communi- 
 cation ^\'as (Established b(>tw(H'n llie stranger and \\\o forloi'u 
 men. Sym])athizing with tluar (les])e"r;ite plight, he let them 
 know by signs that he would ri^turn in thre(> or foui' hours, or 
 d:i\'s, they could not tell which. 
 
 Ab'out six o'clock the s:nn(^ evening, the stranger, accom- 
 panied by two ()th(M' nati\'es. i-e1urned, bringing with them ;i
 
 or>-2 
 
 Till-: ciiKAT wiiiTK yoirni 
 
 frozen fi-!i. wliich ihcy <kitinc(l and .-liccd, and wiiile Xindo- 
 iiui!iii and \(;i'(;s were dcx'ourinjj; the fir.-^t real food lliat ihey 
 had had for many a da}', the men hronu'ht hi deer-skin coats 
 n.nd (>oot> foi' ihenn A."i>tin^- them into tljc sleiu'hs, ihev 
 (h'o\-e oif with them aloni:' the ri\'er To tiie we-tward ior a 
 (h~-1ance of a^'onl fifteea mile.-; to wliere <ome oli,ei' nati\"es 
 were located in two tents. These ti'eaifil the sailors witii 
 ^reat kindne<-. l-iy siu'!!- ;md ])aniomime Xoi'o-- and Ximle- 
 inann ti'iid in e\'ery i)o— idle \\':;y to exj)l;dn to the,-e nati\"e- 
 ahont I)e Lonii' and the I'emaintler of the fii'st cnlter's ])arty. 
 hnl tiiey failed to nsidei'-t und., mi'l tA\'0 d_;;ys latei-. after reach- 
 ini:.' Kn .Mark :-^ii''ka. the -ame effort- were renewed withont 
 sncces-. In de-])air of -eeurinu' a--istance. the men imjiiored 
 to he con\-eyed to I)ejim. wliicii the}' reached < )er olu-r 2i). 
 
 An inie!'\-iew wit h th(- eonnnaiidant at li.''lun iet't the men 
 -till nncerlain if they wei-e nnd,er<tood. or the pliu'iit of ])e 
 honij.'- forlorn i)arty niae- ck-ar to rjie ohicial. who. ho\\"e\-cr. 
 repcao'd that he woi;M take a })a!)er to the " ( 'ai)tain.'" who 
 Xdndemann >ni)])o<cd to he lii< -U])erio!' ofiiecj-. .<i,'k anil 
 weak fi'om dy-en{i.ry. -caniily cloilicd. and ii;>nhieient ly I'e'l. 
 the men wi're located in a mi>e!'ahle hut Avhicli h;.:d keen 
 a--iLnied to tiiem. wlien on the e\-eniii'i.- of Xo\'enikrr '2. l^^l. 
 the dooi' o])r'tH''l a!id. a man dii'(--fd in fwr eiitered. A- he 
 cami' forward, Xoro- exchdmed. ■'My 'en!! Mr. Mel\iile! 
 Are yon a!i\-e? \\V tiioU'iht t'lat 1:;e wha!e-!'oat- w.-fe all 
 dcadV" 
 
 The <dlicia!. haxmiLi' ah'eadx' kiiowf-duc ^f l!ie -afctyof the 
 A\Ta!e-!i(,at '- jiai'ty. had imiiiedia.t ejy c( .mmuiMcat ed wi'li 
 .M- !\-illc, \\!,() ia all ha-t;' came to I'.i'Imu. d"he wTaled^^a.! 
 pai'ty Wire ii.iW'iM their road from ( '.cijnoxTaloiT'c Oi I'eliai. 
 dTi- iiit !-.-ia'l MiTTlc w-- imw dcici'miaeil upon a;i immt-dkaie 
 -canT \' •r ]),■ ko:|M'-. pai'ty, and to ihi- ead ha-tiiied !a(T. 
 m-'ci iii;: I )ciica!i. iw,r at nunhaT. w Ti'i'e he L:a\'c :ki!i "a -t ruc- 
 ti'.'i- tn ori .c<-,^d with the eiiiirc |)a''t\- to \kikui-l-;. a di-;anci'
 
 A llA yJJ ONMEX T 3 G >5 
 
 of twdxM^ huiuii'ctl mik^s, and to fonummicatc Avith the Rus- 
 si;iu !j;o\-('niiiuiii aiul the luitcd tStuics minister. 
 
 M('l\-ill(' was !)\- no means I'ecoverod from his lon<!,- ex])osure, 
 and hi> frozen linihs caused him great sufferin<i', Imt iiever- 
 th.clos ii(> M'ent back over the ti'ack of Nindemaim and Noros 
 ste]) 1)>- siej). On Xovem1)er 10, the nati\es who luid accom- 
 paiiifxl him amiounced they nuist return as the provisions 
 wrv(^ exIiaustiMl, but 3iI(dviUe commanded them to go on, 
 declai'itig lii(\v woukl eat dog as long asthetwenity-two kisted, 
 and vlicn th(>se gave out he should eat them. Such deter- 
 mination, won the day, and they proceeded to the sc^ttlement 
 of Xorth ]-)(dun. Here a native brought him one of De Long's 
 I'lH'ords, left on the march. From these natives he learned in 
 Vv'hich dirc-ction the records had lieen found, and pressing on, 
 in s])iie of liis frozen fe(4, which were in such a condition he 
 could no longer wear his moccasins, lie reached, Xoveml)cr 13, 
 the iiut wliere D(> Long's first record had been left, a distance 
 fi'om Xoi'th IjcIuu of thirt.v-three miles. Could De Long's 
 chart but ha\'e shown the native sertlenK^it of Xoi'th Belun, 
 the whole luu'ty would doubtk^ss have been saved. 
 
 On Xovember 11 following the northeast hank of the river 
 he came to th(^ shoi'es of the Arctic Ocean and found the 
 flag-staff where articles from the first cuttei- liad been cached. 
 Loading iiis sled with all tlie articles found thei'e, including log- 
 bcK)k, chrononu^ter and navigaticjn box, he retiu'ucHl to Xorth 
 I'jelun. With fresh dog teams lu^ set out again Xovember 17, 
 in an eiifk'Hi'our to find the hut where Ericksou died. Fierce 
 sloi'ins and lack of food forced ^Vfelville to take refuge in a 
 snow-h(jle dug ahout six feet scjuare and three or four feet 
 deep. 
 
 "The storm contimuMl to blow,'' writes ^[(dville. ''the 
 whok^ of tlsat nigiit, the next day and tlie lu^xt night. It was 
 impossible to mo\'e until the iKwt day morning, when it 
 cleared up a little, but in the mean time, we had nothing to
 
 304 
 
 Tin-: GRKAT WHITE yORTII 
 
 cat. It wa^ too r~toi'my to malvc a fii'(^ to make tea, and tlie 
 \ciii-(iii lioiic- which ihc uati\'('- h;ul d\v^ out \vc]'c full (jf 
 ina,ua,()t>. W : choj^pcd this uj) in little cuhcs and swalhjwcd 
 it A\iiol(', v\iiirh made mo so >ick after it wanned up in my 
 stomach that I vomite(l it all (Jut a^u,ain."" 
 
 Mel\-ille reached \\\\ Alark Surka Xcn'ember 21, and at 
 Beluii tlu'ee days latei', after an absence of twenty-three days, 
 in which he tra\-e!led in) le>s than >ix hundred and >ixt\'-three 
 miles o\-er the tundi'a of Xorthern Siberia in the face of an 
 Arctic ^\•inter. r])on reachin.u' Yakutsk Deceml)er IJO, ISSl, 
 where Danenhower and his ])arty had ])!-eceded him, Alelville 
 retained Xindemaim and Ijartlett to a.->ist him in the spring 
 search, and in-trucled DanenhoAver to ])rocee(l with tlie (jther 
 n.ine men to l!-kut-]<. di-tant over nineteen lunidi'ed miles, 
 from thence to Anu-iica. 
 
 ddie >prin,u,' search wa> made under the following; instruc- 
 tion- from the Xa\'y l)(])artment a1 AN'asiiington : ■ — 
 
 "()mit no effort, -pai''' no (■xj)en>e va securing safety of 
 m('n in second cutler. Let the -ick and the fi'oz(>n of those 
 alreadx' I'e.-cued ha\c e\'ery attention, and as soon as ])racti- 
 cah'le ha\c tiiem transferrid to a mildei' climate. Department 
 will -u])pl\' neces-ai'y fund-." 
 
 In the meantime .1. P. .!ack<on, >])eclal corre-])ondent of 
 ihe .\'^ ■'■ )'"/■/■■ /// ;'.•'/. '. had, ari'i\'ed ;it Irkul-k. on hi- A\-ay to the 
 Lena. Delta, d'li'' Xa\\' I )(i)art mesit detailed L. P. Xoros 
 to acci ,i!i])a!iy liim. Lieutenant ('die-: p,. irarLer, L. S. X'., 
 acc()m])aii!i d hy Ma-ter W. IL Schuetze. had keen .-eiit to 
 >earch for Lieu'^eiiant ( 'liipi) and hi- jjarty. 
 
 Mek.ihe, wiih Xindeniann anil kiartiett as a--i-t aid -. (-n- 
 ga'j,ed Leier in; evpri-' '•!■- and I'eached L^hm the -econd week 
 ia l-( kruai'y. .\ monih wa- -peni in col]ectin:U- dou- and, pro- 
 AU-ioii- and e-i al '!id;i:m' 'jepot-of -upplie- at Mat \ ai and 
 Ka-!\arla. (h: ?\Ia!'ch Li, I ^Mk accoiapanied I )y Xilide- 
 Jiiami, Ml k.-Iile piMceiVin! i i ■, a ])lace called I'-terda, whei't^
 
 Melville's semkh 8G5 
 
 Captain Do Long had crossed the river to tlic westward. A 
 search was now made for the hut where Erickson had died. 
 
 Snow covered the country and effectively ohhterated all 
 traces of previous travellers. Storms forced their return 1o 
 Kas Karta, and a fresh start was made. The party dividend 
 to insure^ a more thorough search. 
 
 "We followed the bay," says Air. ]\Ielville in his narrative, 
 ''until late in the evening, having visited all the headlands; 
 finally we came u]) to the large river with the broken ice. I 
 jum])ed upon the headland or point of land making down in 
 the hay and found wlu^re an immense fire had been made. 
 The fire- bed was probably six f(H>t in diameter, large drift- 
 logs hove into it, and a large fire made, sucli as a signal hre. 
 I then hailed Xindemann and the natixes, saying 'Jlei'e ih(\v 
 are!' Th(W thought tliat I had found the placi^ where the 
 De Long ]:)arty had been. Xind(>mann came upon the ]M.)i]it 
 of land, and said that neither he nor Xoros had made a fire 
 of that kind, onl\' a small fire in the cleft of a bank ; but he 
 was sure that this was tlu> point of land tlxy" had turned going 
 to the west^vard, and that this was tlu^ river ahjng which he 
 and Xoros had come. ..." 
 
 "It is th(^ custom of the people here," continues Aleh-ille, 
 "in making a search to go facing tli(> river and wlicn they S(>e 
 anytliing to attract them, dro]) off tlu^ sled and (wamiiu^ it, 
 or pick it up and go on. In this manner, about five hundred 
 yards from \\\c ])oint where tlie iii'e had been, I saw the j^oints 
 of four stick.s standing u]) out of th(> snow about eighteen 
 inches, and lashed together with a piece of ro])e. Seeing this, 
 I dropi)ed off I^h^ sled, and going \\\) to tlu^ ])lace on the snow 
 bank, I found a 1^'mington I'ifle slung across the jioints of the 
 slicks, and \\\o nuizzle about (Mglit inches out of \\\v snow. 
 'V\\v d.)g-ilriver. seeing I had found something, came bnck 
 witli the sled, and I sent him to Xindeinann to tell \\\\\\ to 
 come back, he liaving gone as fai' up the ri\-ei' as the fiat -boat.
 
 ot)t; 
 
 Till-: (r]!i:AT WHITE yoniii 
 
 W'hcii tlicy rciurni'd 1 >iari('(l the ruuix'c- to diu'^in'j,' out th(> 
 >niAV-I)ank uiiari'iicath the t('!it-])ol('>. 1 <u])];(j>c(i tliut tiic 
 pari}' had ii'ot tirci! of caiTvin^' their hooks and ])ai)i'r<, and 
 had made a deposit (A tlieni al lhi> i)l;icc. and i-rectcd these 
 pole- o\'er the j)apei-s and hook- a- a landniarl';. th;i.t they 
 miu'ht I'elurn aiid >ecu!-e them in case the\' arrixcd ;;_t a \)\i<a'{' 
 of -afel\'. Xindeiiianu and I .-tood arotnid a hllle vvlhle. 
 U'()i upon the hank, and look a hjok at the ri\-er. .>, iuiienian;; 
 saM he would lio to the- nor' hwai'd. and -ee if he could d;-co\-(-r 
 an.N'ihinii; of the tra.ck and Inid the \va\' t<j lirickson's hut. I 
 tool-; the c()ni])a>s ;ind ])roe(^eded lo i he >outhvrard to ,uct the 
 hearinii- of Stijlhox'oi anil Mat \ ah >o I might rt-turn there 
 that night in ca-e it came oji t(j hlow. 
 
 "In ])roceeiliiio- io a ])o;ni to -er u]) tlic c()m])a-s. T saw a 
 
 tea-kettle liarliallv htU'ied in the -now. Hue of llie l]aTi\'(:^ 
 had foll<jv.'e(l me. and I jjoiuieil (Hit to him ihe ke"tle, aiid, 
 ajh'alicing to ])ick it U]). I caine up^'U th(' ho<lie- of tlil^'-e men. 
 p;irtial!\' hurieil in the -now. one hiOid reaching eait with the 
 l(-ft arm oi' the man raix d v.-.-iv aiiox;- liie -urfaee (;f the .-n( \v 
 — hi- whiile i'-fi arnu I imm'd';i I i-ly re''o;m;/''d tiieu! as 
 ('■i])ta!n l)e Loiig. Dr. .\niole!-. -nd Ah >am. the co(ik. 'h!:e 
 captain atid the do'-tor wi^re l\-inir wi'h tied' 'i^'ad- to d:e 
 noi-ihwai'd. face 1(» thi' v,"e-t. and Ah ^-Ani wa- I\ hui.- at riulu 
 aULil"-- to the o'her W'n. w\\\i hi- heal cAout tci- Hoelor's 
 middle, and i'<-ct in the litv, o-- wheo^ the lire had t.ecn. d"hi- 
 firepl;t'-e w;i- -urrouiided hy dri ft -\\-o o i . iijimen-e triinl-;- of 
 tiv,-. ;md tlcy had iheir fir- in th" "i'Do-h of a larire iivc. 
 
 Tii.y had earried li,c tead.etd'' up there, an ! li^ ,t a Inl < il \rr\\r 
 willow- wAieh t!;.'y u-ed for t-a. and -'ilee lee o) iiiake wate]' 
 i'mt ;l;i-!r ii-a. and had a hi'e. dd.e;r a j ij -a !'e;;t ly ii'td af. n:i)ied 
 T') I ar:'\- th-i:' ''mo';- a.nd pa]ier- uo tl:i re on ihi- hiuh peinl, 
 hccau-e i!:.'y eai'iAA th'' ejart ca-c \\], ; la re. and I -ini[io-e 
 
 ' aiU'- . i! L!> eau '.O I i!' ' he ' A:h la iid pri'Vf a' < | 1 ' , i f r i i i : l la i- 
 
 I LI I I hi' ri -i o!' 1 :ieir h(,oi,- and oa| )i r- Xo do.ii t t iiex' 
 
 A
 
 mklville's search 307 
 
 isaw that if tluy (li(xl on the river Ijed, where the water runs, 
 th(^ s])rin,i2; freshets \voukl curry them olf \o sea. 
 
 "I .iiaThered up all tlie small ailieles lying around in the 
 vicinity of the dead. 1 found the ic(> journal about three or 
 four f(H>t in the rear of De Lon<;- ; that is, it looked as though 
 he had 1 :een lying down, and with his left hand tossed the book 
 o\'('r hi- shoulder to the rear, or to the eastwaixl of him." 
 
 ■'I'eferring to tlu^ journal," continues ^Melville, "I found 
 tiiat tlu^ whok^ of the people" were now in the lee of the l)ank, in 
 a dist;aic(" of about five hundred yards. In the meantime, 
 the native that had gone for Xindemann had brought him 
 l)ack." 
 
 "The three bodies were all frozen fast to the snow, so fast 
 that it was necessary to pry them loose with a stick of tinif)er. 
 \\\ turning over Dr. Amider, 1 was surprised to find T3e Long's 
 |)i-t()l in liis right hand, and tlien, observing the fdood-.-tained 
 mouth. l)(>ard, and snow, I at first thought that he had ])ut a 
 violent end to his misery. A careful (examination, however, of 
 the UHiiith and head revealed ru.) woimd, and, releasing th(" pis- 
 tol from its tenacious death-grasp, I saw that otdy three of its 
 cluunbcrs contained carti'idgc^s, which were all loaded^ and then 
 knew, of course, that h(" could not luive harmed liimself, els(^ 
 oue ormortMif the capsules would b(M'mpty. ... 1 Ijelieve 
 hi! 11 to liave \)vv\\ the hist of the imf(.)rtimate ]:)arty to perish. 
 A\'lien \\\ Sam had been stretclu-d out and his hands crcjssed 
 i;]).>u liis bireast, ]3e l.oug a]:)]:);u'(>ntiy crawled a\va\' and dietl. 
 Tlien., :-oIitary and fami>liing, in that desolate sC("U(^ of death, 
 ])r. Ambler secerns to have taken the pistol from the corpse of 
 l)e Long. doubtle>< in tli(> liojX' tb.at some bird or b(^ast might 
 (■■-•me to ])rey UjXin tlie bodie- and afford him food, — perha])s 
 al'.iiic to ])i'otect his dead conn'aib^s from m(jle<tation, — in 
 eithi^r ca<e. or liotli, thei'e lie ke]")t liis lone watch to the last, 
 on duty, on guard, un(](>r arms." 
 
 It now icniained l)tit to find the otlu'r lujdit^s and l)urv the
 
 •■;(»« Till': (niEAT white yoiiTii 
 
 (lead. In due tinu^ tliis was acconi))lislic(l. Melville writes 
 oi' the .-])(.)t eh()-<'U as follows : — 
 
 "I'lie iiurial giound is on a hold promcjiitory with a per])en- 
 dieiilar face overlookini^' the frozen polar sea. The rcjcky 
 hi'ad of the mountain, ecdd, austere as the Spliinx, frowns 
 upon the s])ot where tlie part\- perished ; and considerinti; its 
 weatlier-heat<-n and time-worn a>])ect, it is altofi'etlier fitting 
 that here they should rest. I attained the crest of the i)rom- 
 (;ntory hy makin,;;' a detour of several miles to the southward 
 of its maj(>stic front, and then t(_)iling slowly to the to]). Here 
 I laid out hy com]);i>- a due north and sotith line, and one due 
 east and west, and where the\' inter.-ected, I jilanted the cross 
 \\hich luark- tlu^ tomi) of my c(.)mrades." 
 
 ■'There in sis^ht of the spot ^\'here they fell, the sc(>ne of their 
 sufferin,<i; and luroic endea\()i', whei-e the everlasting snows 
 would he tlieir winding sheet and the herce ])olar hlasts \\hich 
 pierced their ])oor unclad hodics in life, wotdd M'ail their wild 
 dii'gc ihr(.)ugli all time, — there we hiuried them, and surely 
 heroes never found a fitter r( >ting ])lace."' 
 
 hieutf'nant ITai'her was also in the field, as was Air. Jackson, 
 eorre>p()ndenT of the X<ir )'nrl: lit raid. A tliorough search 
 A\-a:- made of the Delta for ('hi])])"s |)arty, without a\-ail. 
 
 ('oiigre-s lia\-ing a])i)i'o))riat ed s-J.'.OOO for the expense of 
 hriuging home \n America the hodies ol' l)e Long and his 
 ntiiortunate par1\', Lieut<'nant Ilai'her a'.d AIa>tei' Scliuetze 
 n|' liie relief >hi]) l!(iij( I's. M'hicli had l)een hurtie*! off the coast 
 of Sihei'la in Decemher. jssl. left tlie Lena in Iss;! al'ter a 
 \eai''> >earcli, hrinuhig with llu-m tlie I'cmains.
 
 i;i,\i( ,\iiMii;\i. !li,iii;(.i: W. M I i,\ I M.i:. I'.S.X.
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 lutoniatioiuil circuinpolar stations. — ]'"ailur(> of Dutch expedition. 
 
 — Cirecly cxixHlition reaches Lady FrankUn Bay. — Life at Fort 
 ContXv-]-. - Shnliie journey of lirainard and Lockwood. — Farthest 
 nortli. — Cii'eely's journey to interior of GrinneU ].and. — Lake 
 liazen. - -l-'ailure of relief shiji Xeptunc to reach Conger in 1SS2. 
 
 — Official plans for Greely"s relief in 1SS3. — Prokus crushed in 
 ic(>. — Carlington's retreat. — Greely's abandonment of Fort 
 Conner. — Greely reaches Cape Sabine. — The beginning of a 
 hai'd wimer. — Death of members of the part}' from starvation 
 and cold. —Schley's brilliant rescue of the renuiant of the Lady 
 I'ranklin Hay expedition in 18S4. 
 
 TiiK plan for (>stablishing International Circmnpolar Sta- 
 tions within or near the Arctic Cii'cle, for the purpose of re- 
 cording a conipl(>te series of synchronous meteorological and 
 magnetic observations, was otitlined in a w(dl-thought-ont 
 pa])(>r delivered by Lieutenant Karl A\'eyprecht, A. H. Xavy, 
 before the (Jernum Scientific and Medical Association of 
 Cratz in St^ptember, 1875, soon after tlu^ return from his 
 renuirkable journey in the TcgetthoJ. 
 
 Though Lieutenant AVeypreclit did not live to see his splen- 
 did sclu^mc carri(>(l into eiT(>ct. tlu^ coojXTation of Prince 
 Bisuiai'ck and the hearty intlorsement of the plan by a com- 
 mission of eminent scientists, as w(dl as the decision of the 
 international Meteorological Congress, which rei)orted "that 
 these v)l)servati()ns will b(> of tlu> highest importance in devel- 
 oping mcneol■olo^y and in ext(>nding otir knowknlge of terres- 
 trial magnetism. ■■ re-ulted in the International Polar Con- 
 ference, at Hamburg, October 1, LS79, in which eleven nations 
 v.'ere re])re>ented, and a s(>cond conference at Rerne, August 7, 
 L'>SO, at which it was decided that each nation shotild estab-
 
 ;!70 
 
 TUI-: (;uEAr wiiiTi-: yonrii 
 
 lisli one or iiiort^ stati(ni< where syuclir(iiious (jbser\-ati(.)ns 
 .-hould !)(■ taken i'nuii Au,u-u>t, 1SS2. 
 
 Willi the txce])tioii of the Dutch expecUtioii. the schenio 
 wa> .-ucee-^fuhy carried out and tlie stations e>tabli>lied witli- 
 out acciileut. 
 
 Xorwe,uians — l^osekof. Ahen Fjord, Xorway, under cUrcH'titju 
 of AI. Ak<cl S. Steen. 
 
 Swetles — Ice Fj(jrd. Spitzbergen, under direction of Mr. 
 
 I-^kliolni. 
 
 Ru--ians — v^agastyr L-lanch nujuth of Lena. Siberia, 
 under Lieutenant Jiirgens. 
 ALdler l^>a\'. Nbn'a Zenibla, under Li(nitt'nant 
 An(h'cicf. 
 
 Arnt ricans — Point liarrow. North America, under Lieuten- 
 ant Lay, L. S. A. 
 Lady Franldin La\'. Np hi' X., under Lieuten- 
 ant A. ^\■. (bveiy, r.s. A. 
 
 EngUsli — Clreat Skive Lake, Dominion of CanacUi, under 
 
 Lieutenant Da\\>on. 
 (lerman - Cumberland I^a}' -- we-t >ide of Da\'is Strait, 
 
 under Dr. ( oe-e. 
 J);iiie- — - (lodthaab. ( 'ii'(>e!iland, under A. Paul>en. 
 
 Austrian — Jan ALiyen, Xoi'th .\l!aiil:c. 71' X., under 
 
 Lieiitenant \\'(;hlueneuth. A. IL X;i\'\'. 
 
 Astothe unsucc('S-i'ul Duteh exjiedition. the ]"'//■/"/ saiknl 
 from Am^terilani .!ul\' •"). l'^'^l2, bound for Dick.-MU Harbor, 
 biit was lie<(M in the Kara Sea in Se])t embcie >lieA\-a> cruslied 
 in Decemlier. l'^'^2. when the (a'e^\■ took refuiiv on boaivl 
 Lieutenant no\-t:';ia!'d'- \'e<-el, the />//////,■///", A\'hich had al.-o 
 been \',yc,'i] 1(1 wintei' in the i)ack. Xe\'ert hele--^, Dj-. Snellen 
 did hi< utinii-t to ])roenre reLL'ular ol '--er\"at ion- from tluir 
 L'e.-elment until the fullowing Auu'ust. when tliex' slartetl 1a'
 
 VAILUUE OF J)VT(;U EXrEDITlOy oil 
 
 boat and slcd.i^c for the coast of Xova Zembla. By August 
 2"), tlu'v reached the south point of W'aigat Island, where they 
 met the \(ir(l( /isLjold and were safely landed in Ilaninierfest, 
 Sei)teniher 1, 18S;^. 
 
 The ine.-iinial)le value of the combined and systematic 
 record of the scientific observations secured by the Inter- 
 national Circumpolar Stations is a matter of public record. 
 The success was complete, and all l)ut the American nation 
 might well be proud of the management and protection of- 
 fered to tlie fearless men detailed to tlie s})lendid work. 
 
 The un])aralleled disaster wliich overtook the Lady 
 Franklin P)ay expedition under Lieut(~nant (ireel\- and his 
 hirave com])anions. thixnigh no fault of their own, but by a 
 series of mismanaged accidents for which there was neither 
 excuse ]ior condonatiijii, lea\"es a blot U])on the American rec- 
 oi'ds which the centuiies cannot obliterat(\ 
 
 "If the si!n])le and necessary ])r(H'aution had lieen taken," 
 wrii(\-- -Marlvham. brotlier of the famous expkjrer. '"of >tation- 
 ing a de]iot-s|ii]) in a good hai'bour at the entrance of .'^milh 
 Souu'l, in annual c(jmmunication with (ii-eely on one side and 
 witli America on tlie other, there would liave Ix'en no disas- 
 ter" : and he c{.)ntinues, "If ])recautions jiroved to be neces- 
 s;u-\' by ex])ei'ience are taken, ihere is no undue risk or danger 
 in polar enleiprises. There is no (iuesti(jn as to the \-alue 
 ;nid im])oriance of polar discovery, and as to the i)rinci])lcs 
 on which ex])editions should b(^ sent out. Theii' objfM'ls are 
 ex]:)!orat ion-- for scientific pui"i)o.-e> and tlie enc(juragement of 
 inaril ime ent('r])ris(\" 
 
 Lieutenani (li'eely's party consisted of three officers besides 
 the comm.andei'. nineteen men of the army, including an 
 a-tronomer. a ))}iotogra])h(M-. and meteorologist, and t^vo 
 lv-!dnio-. Sailing from St. .h)hn'<, Xewfoundland. July 7, 
 bS'^1. 1iiey wei'e C()n\-eye(j in the >ealer. /'/'n/rz/.v, to Liltlelon 
 1-land. where the}' hunted U}) the mail of the Al( rt and Dis-
 
 ;)72 TlIK GREAT WHITE yOllTlI 
 
 coreri/, then ])ro('('(Hl('(l in opvn water to (.'ii\)v \.w\)vv, <S]° 'A~' N. 
 'riuTc the ship was (lela\-('(l by cucountcriuji; ice in Hall Basin, 
 i^y Au,u;ust 11, she had jjiished through and safely landed the 
 party at the old winter ([uarters of the Discorcri) m 187o- 
 1S7(). Innnediate l)reparati()ns were made for buildina; a 
 liouse, and after all sui)plies were landed, the J^rolcnx sailed 
 home, leax'in.u' Lieutenant (ireely and his party at "rort 
 Conjivr." Indications of approaching winter appeared as 
 early as August 27, and the season ])ro\'ed one of unusurJ 
 severity. Sledge^ journtys, hunting ])arti(^s, and exjjloring 
 trips, combined with regular duties, sci(>ntific obserx'ations, 
 exercise and moderate amusements, insiu'ed the party a sea- 
 son of successful labour and good lundth. 
 
 Travelling in one instanc(^ a we(>k, in another ten d;iys, in 
 frightful temperatures avei'aging 7.'^° below freezing, Lieuten- 
 ant Lockv.'ood and Dr. (). Pa\'y, sui'geon of the ex])edition, 
 with thc^ir companions, (iidured the se\-eril\- with sur])rising 
 encM'gy. Th(> ice conditions of liobeson Channel were a-ctn- 
 tained and depots established at Cape Sunmer for us(> in ihe 
 following s])ring. 
 
 The sun left on October 15, and was absent one liundred 
 and thirty-five days. The curious effect U])on the mind 
 produccnl by the long Arctic night is recorded in Decemb.ei'. 
 "About the 10th, "' writes Lieutenant C.reely in his Hc^port, 
 "a few of the men ga\'(' indications of hieing nffected l)y tlu^ 
 (•(jntinual dai'kness, but such signs soon di,-;i])j)enr('d and 
 cheei'ful s])irits i-eturncd. 'Hie l•;skimo-^ ai)])''arcd to be the 
 most affe(-led. ( )n the l.'Sth. Jens Ivlwai'd di-appeai'cd, 
 Icax'ing ihe station in eai'ly morniiig, witluuit mi!!cii< and 
 without bi-cal<fa^1. Sending tA\'o ])ai'tie< \\itli l.iiil I'lus to 
 de>c!'ibe ;i !i;ilf-niile circle ;ii-ound the station, hi- ti'acr;< were 
 soon found, leading towards the >tr;iit-. He \\;i- ;it once 
 ])ur-ue(!, and was o\-ei'taken about ten mile- from the >l;ilion, 
 Ileal' ('ape .MiU'clii-on. He I'etui'ned to t!ie slalion uithout
 
 SLKDGE JornXEY 0¥ BRAIN AUI) AM) LOCKU'OOI) o~-j 
 
 ol)j(H'ti()U, and in time n^covercd his spirits. Xo cause for 
 liis action in this respect could he asc(Mtaine(h" 
 
 l)v. Pavy, who had s])ent the previous year among the 
 Eskinicjs, said that tliis state of mind ^vas not infreciuent 
 amon<i- the natives of lower Greenland, and often resulted in 
 the wanderinii; off of the subjects of it, and, if not followed, by 
 their ])erishin.u; in the cold. 
 
 As early as February 19, 1882, Lockwood and Brainard 
 made a dog-sledge trip to one of tli(> depots, deposit(Hl the 
 ])i'e\-i()us autumn, a journey over the foot-ice of twenty miles. 
 On the 2i)th of February, Lieutenant Lockwood, accompanied 
 by L^rainard. four other men, and two dog teams, made an 
 expcM'imcmtal trip to Thank Ciod narl)or preparatory to his 
 pr()])osed, grand expedition along the coast to northern 
 ( b'cenland. Msiting the grave of Charl(^s Francis Hall, 
 J^ockwood wrote in his journal the following touching trib- 
 ute : — 
 
 ■■The head-board erected l)y his comrades, as also the me- 
 tallic one l(-ft by the English, still stands. How mournful to 
 me the scen(\. made more so In' the howling of the winds and 
 the thick atmosphere I It was doubtless best that he died 
 whei'e ]\o did. I have come t(j regard liim as a \'isionary and 
 an eiilhusiast. who \vasindel)te(l more to fortune than to those 
 l)ractical abilities wliicli Kane possessed. Yet lie ga\-e liis 
 life to the cau-e. and that must always g(j far toward redeem- 
 ing the shortcomings of any man. Tlu^ concluding lines of 
 the in-('rii)iion on the I-JUilish tablet. I think good. "To 
 Captain Hall, who -acrificed his \Uv in the advancement of 
 science. Xo\-einb,er 8. 1871. This tablet has been erected by 
 the l)riti<h ])olar ex]i(^!ition of 1875. wliich followed in his 
 footsteps and ])rolited ]»y his experienc(\"' 
 
 Dr. Pa\'}'. accoinpanied by Sergeant Rice and Eskimo Jens 
 with a dou--sl(>dge. started March 1!). 1882. for the north of 
 Grinnell Laud. A supporting .-ledge under Sergeant Jewell
 
 ■niK (;i;eat wiirn: yoinii 
 
 acc()!ii]);ai!f(l him us far as Lincolu l^ay. ( )n April 1, an unfor- 
 limatc accitlciit to a sledge ruiiucr caused a fi\c (la\'n' delay 
 al ('ape I'tiiijii. Ser_ti-eaiit Kice and r^-kiino Jens made ti 
 iorced nuu'cii hack tu h"(jrt ( 'oiij^cr and secured a new rumier. 
 >l(jrms retardi'd their ad\'anc(\ hut in >p'ite (jf the r()U(i,h condi- 
 tion of the ice, all sui)])lics were hriju^'ht up t(j ( 'a])e .Jos(>j)h 
 ilcnr\- and left there Ajjril 20. Tw(j days later a N'iolent 
 storm -et in, and aft(-r it suh-ided, the paity pushed on to^\ard 
 ('a])e Ilecla. A lane (jf o])en water was >een extendin<i; i'rom 
 Ci'ozii'r Island round ('a])e Ilecla. As this channel i'ai)idly 
 increa-cd in width, a r(-lreiit was decided on, but to his c(jn- 
 sTernati(jn, hefore land could he reached. Dr. Pa\'y found 
 himself adrift on a floe in the Polar Ocean. FoUunately the 
 floe ^\■as dri\'en a,uain-t the land near ( "ai)e Ilenr}'. iind after 
 ahand.oninti all article.- u<jt ah>olutely indi-i)ensa!)le, he 
 esca])('d t(j the mainland, but was obli^'ed to <ii\'e u]) further 
 exj)lorati(ji!.-. 
 
 In lh(; meantime. Lieutenant L(jckwood had c(.)m])lete(l 
 hi- 1) reparations, and the advance ]^arty, con-i-tin^' of Seruvant 
 I-irainard and nine men drauuinu' four Hudson W-ax >1c(1-j,cs, 
 left b'ort Coniicr Ajjril '■'■>, \Ss2. to Ix- f(»lloWi'd the next da\- by 
 Lieutf'Uaut I.ockwood with two men and (^ne dou— led,u"'', 
 uiiilcr ii!-truct ions to ex])lore the coa-t of (ireeiiland lu^ar 
 ('ape Iji'itaiuiia "in such (lirection as die! thought be<t 
 to cai'ry (,ut tlie objects o\ the 'mainj expedit ion, --- t he 
 (•x'eii-ioii of kiKrwiciIov re^'ardin,ii' lands within the Ai'ctic 
 Circl.^-' 
 
 d'iie oth of April, Loc]<wood joined tfie ad\'ancc j)a:'t\"ar 
 Depot A. On tlie afteinoon of theSth, they I'eached ( 'ajM' 
 Sumiief. liali- of ))f-mmic;ui AVel'e ad;ded to the -lediie l^ad- 
 f'lr do^■ food. Tiie jiartie- eiMMjimtei'ed \-iolei)1 U'ale- :uid 
 exlreme coM sl' b.^he.v free/.ine-i a- they ])U-hed. mm to X^w- 
 m:;ii I'ciy. Tlie h.'ird ex| )erie; 1 c. ■ of -!'-i|n',. tra\'el wa- already 
 telliim Upon the men, and at thi- ])(jint I'our were .-ent back.
 
 FA R r HE ST Nonrn 375 
 
 Ix'ino- unfit for contimiod fiekl work. Pushing; on for Rcpulsf^ 
 nart)or. Avith three hundred rations and ei<j;lit nicni, L(j{'kwood 
 advanccnl in th(> face of storms, rough ice, and broken sledp;es, 
 at th(^ averaii'e ral(^ of nine miles ])vr (kiy. The men suf- 
 ferinl mucli from siiow-ljlinthiess, and tlie unwonted fati.u;ue of 
 dr;i,<2;ii'in»; th(^ heavy sledges through arcvis of soft, d(>ep snow. 
 At ( 'ai)(^ I jryatit, which was readied Ai)ril 27, a rest of two days 
 was taken, during which Jirainard, with two com])anions, 
 visit(Hl the highest point of Cai)e Tulford. 
 
 On tlu! 29th of May, Li(>utenant Lockwood s(^nt back the 
 su])porting sledge-men and, with Hraiuai'd and the Iiiskimo 
 Christ enstni, \\w dog-sledge and twenty-five days' rations, 
 ])Ui'sued liis journcw nortli across the Polar Ocean to Cape 
 liritannia, which was readied ^lay 5, after six journe\-s, the 
 last a viny short on(\ 
 
 "From the top of the mountain, 2050 feet," writes Lock- 
 wood, "which forms Ca])e Bi'itannia, I got a good view all 
 around. Towards th(> northeast lay a succession of headlands 
 and inlets as far as 1 could see — some 15 or 20 miles — and 
 this was the charact(n' of the coast b(>yond as fur as 1 got.'' 
 
 The}' had followed out the letter of their instruct ioll^ and 
 had rc^ached the destination meutioned tluMxan, l)ut finding it 
 pos>il)li^ to continue th(>ir ex])lorations, they pushed on over 
 htiid ne\-er before exj)lor(Ml by man, ci'ossing the fi'ozen ocean 
 and r(>achii)g Mary Murray Iskmd the 10th of May. Tlu> 
 ]):uty w(>re now suffering from cold and insuflicient food, 
 d'o hu-!)and tlidr rations, th(\v h.ad eat(Mi v(.ny little of late. 
 
 "The dogs were ravenous foi' food, and wluni feeding time 
 ciune, it was amid l)lows from the men and fights among the 
 (log> that llie distribution was made." 
 
 In s])!!!' of >erious d(d:!ys by \iolent wind and storms, l)y 
 floes so liigh tii.'il the >ledge was loweriMl by dog-traces; by 
 ice so I'ough a- to neces-ital'- tlie use of the axe before th(\V 
 t'ould advance, and bv widening Avater cracks which delax'ed
 
 :;.t) Tin: (;i:k.ij wiiiti-: south 
 
 tli("ir ])r(),u'r('ss. these men jjiislied boldlx- on, and on May lo, 
 LSS2, made a woi'ld's record. reachin<;' on that d'dy L(j('k\vood 
 I.-land, (S;-)' 2i' nfjrth hititude. 42'' Ui' ^ve^t lon^iitude. l!ain- 
 in.ti a consideralJe ele\"ation, L(jckwood unfurled Mrs. 
 (ireely's prett}" httle silken flag and "for the fir.-t time in 
 two hundi-e(l and se\■ent^■-fi^■e years ancjther nation than Knii;- 
 land claimeil the honors of the farthest north, and the Ldiioii 
 Jack ,L!;a\'e way to the Stars and Stri])e>." 
 
 Frijui this point the most nortlierl\- land seen was (/a])e 
 A\'asliinji1(jn ; beyoiid to the iKjrth "hiy an unhj'oken expanse 
 of ice. interrupted only by the horizon." IIa\'en ('oa>t 
 trendcfl to the northeast, in a succes>ion of high, rocky, and 
 precipitous pronicjutoi'les. 
 
 r>\'idences of \'egetati(jn and game were found in this high 
 latitude. Lenunings. ])tarmigan. fox('S, and hai'e,- lound their 
 ^\■ay to these desolate shoi'cs, and -mall |)lants strugule*' f(ir a 
 footh(jld in the uncongenial -^oil. 
 
 '■A< we think of Lockwood." write- Charles Laimian, his 
 biosxi'aphei'. "'at the end of his jounicy, witli onl}' two com- 
 ])anions, in that land of utter desolation, we are struck with 
 a.dmiration at the courage and maidy -i)irit by which he a\';is 
 in-])ii'e(l. lilting cold, fearful storm-, gloomy darknc--. the 
 danger- of -tarvation and -ickne-s. all combir:e(l to block hi- 
 icc ])atliA\'a\'. an<l yet he ])ersevered a!id ac''omp!i-!ied liis 
 lier(.)ic ])ur|)o<e, thereby wirming a ])lace in hi-lory of which 
 his coimtrymen may well, and will, be ])]-ou(l to the end of 
 time." ' 
 
 ddi<' r<'tm'n wa- e\'en more ariluou- than tic ad\'ancc. and 
 a- the>' i)ur-ued tlieii' weary trail. thoULihl- wandered lo home 
 ami creature cidnforl-. "W'iial ihouuhl- one ha- when thus 
 ploddinii' alonii!" writr- I.ockAS'ooij in hi- journal. "Home 
 and i-\-cr\-i hiiig there, and t!ie -cen<'- .-uc 1 incid'^ni- oi earb.' 
 
 Kipriii'i'M riMi!; /■■'I '■■'.. ■ \ ..,-■/' li;.- ( iKii'l''- L;i:: mail. ('(i|i\i- 
 1 '^^■"i. •'-. 1 ). A'o'. ■; III .-I ml ( ■i);iii)a!i\'.
 
 LAKK ITAZEN 377 
 
 youth ! Homo asain, when this Arctic oxperi(>iic(3 shall be 
 a thins of the past ! But it must he confessed, and lament- 
 able it is, as well as true, that the reminiscences to which 
 my tliou<4'hts oftenest recur on these occasions are connected 
 with eating, — the favourite dishes I have enjoyed, — while 
 in dreams of the future, my thoughts turn from other contem- 
 plations to the discussion of beefsteak, and, equally absurd, 
 to whether the stew and tea at our next supper will be hot or 
 cold." 
 
 Joining the supporting party at Cape Sumner, the entire 
 part\-, sulferiug from exhaustion and snow-blindness, reached 
 Fort Conger, June 1, 1882. During the absence of Lockwood, 
 Lieutenant Greely had left Fort Conger, April 20, 1882, 
 arul penetrated Grinnell Land, reaching Lake Hazen, a glacial 
 lakc^, some five hundred square miles in area. Lake Hazen 
 was again visited by Greely in June. "Following up \'ery 
 Riven- to its source, the farthest reached was 17.5 miles from 
 the hiome station, Ijetween ]\Iount (1 A. Arthur and Mount 
 C. S. Smith, which evidently form the divide of Grinnell 
 Land, — l)etw(Hni Kennedy Channel to the east and the Polar 
 Ocean to th(^ west." Ascending Mount C. A. Arthur, the 
 highest ])eak of Grinnell Land, Greely stood 4500 feet above 
 the s(^a, and saw to the north of Lake Hazen snow-clad moun- 
 tains, ;uid distant country to tlu^ soutliwest was also covered 
 with (^t(n-nal snows. Lieutenant Lockwood subs(H}uently 
 su])])lemented Grcndy's discoveries of the interior of Grinnell 
 Land with the rc^sult that jointly 0000 square miles of terri- 
 tory was examiiKHl, an accomplishment which "determines 
 tlu- remarkable pliysical conditions of Xorth Grinnell Land. 
 It l)iT)Ught to light fertili" valleys, su])])orting \\v\\\> of musk- 
 ox(Mi. an (^xt(nisi\'(^ icc^-ca]), rivers of consideral)le siz{\ and a 
 glacial lak(^ (HaziMi) of extensi^'e area. . . ." 
 
 Traces of L'skinu)s ha\'ingwinl(M"ed at Lake Haz(Mi, as shown 
 by permanent huts, were a source of surprise to the explorers.
 
 :)T8 THE GREAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 "Successful to sucli n degree as ^y^n•v these seograjihical 
 explorations/" writes (Ireely, "they were strictly subordi- 
 nated ti) the ot)ligatory observations in the interests of the 
 physical sciences. Systematic and unreniittini>; niaii'iietic ob- 
 ser\-ations sei'ved to roinid out knowled.tie i)y enablinii' scien- 
 tists to calculate the secular variation of the inasiuetic decli- 
 nation of th(> Smith Sound re<iion. Apart from the <ieneral 
 value of the meteoi'olo,iiical seiies. it has most fully deter- 
 mined the climatic conditicjus of (Irimiell Land. 
 
 '"The tidal obser\'ati(jns were so com])lete at the station 
 and so am})l\' su])plemente(l by outl\'in,u' stations, that scien- 
 tists have determined not oidy the co-tidal lines of the Polar 
 Ocean with satird'actorx' results, but al>o letuned from them 
 that the (Hunud ine(iuahty of the tidal wa\'e conforms at 
 Fort Conger to the sidereal day. Tlie ])en(lulum obx'rxa- 
 tious }ia\'e lun-n classed as 'far the best that hav(> e\-er bt>en 
 made within the Arctic Circle" and the 'detei'mination of 
 gra\'it\' (therefrom) ha-^ been .-ina:ulai'l\' -uccessfuL' l>otani- 
 cal. zorilogical, ruid antlu'o])ol()uical I'e-carches were ])ur>ued 
 Avith >imilar unremitting attiMition, m) that llie scientific work 
 of the e.\p(Mhtion may be considered :is s;it isfact oi'y and com- 
 plet(\- especiah.y In \-iew of t bi(> liigli lat ii ude of the station."' 
 
 Sununei' had pa<>e(l, and though the men had scanne(l the 
 liorizoM h)n!i; and eai'ue-t ly for promi-^ed rehef, no >hip react led 
 Them. A second wiiitei' passed in the slow monotonx' ciiai'ac- 
 teri^t ic of t he .\rct ic night . 
 
 I'l order to facihitate his I'etreat in ca-e th(^ rehief \-es<el of 
 iS'si) failed Id reaeji him. ( 'o'eely laiil down -toi'e< at Ca])e 
 i>aii'd befuri' the<im return.ed in }'"ebi-ua!'\\ l^s:-), Cuder his 
 ordi'i-. hieuteiiaiit ( i r^ 'elx' wa-- t o aba Mtln: i I'dH ( 'nnge!- not 
 laler 1 h.an Sep] eiulx'i' I and i'etreat -oiuhward by boat, 
 until Im' met the rt'lie!' \-es-el, or hittlelon 1-land wa< i-eache(|, 
 vliei-i' he -would find a fre>h ipai'ty A\ith fresli stoi'es aAMiiting 
 him.
 
 FAILURE OF RELIEF SHIP '' NEPTUyE'' 379 
 
 As t'urly as DeceiJi'bcr 2, 1881, active steps were taken at the 
 War ]J)(.'parliiient in Washington for the rehef vessel of 1882, 
 estimates for an appropriation of So3,00() asked for, and nego- 
 tiations for su|)])lies opened with firms at St. Jolni's and with 
 tlie Danisii governnnent for stores to be delivered in Green- 
 lantL In May, 1882, a board of officers atta('hed to the 
 Signal Service met at W'asliington to consider plans for the 
 relief exi)edition. And the ultimate result was tlie sailing 
 from St. J(jhn's, Xewfoundland, on July 8, 1882, of the sealing 
 vessel Xeptune, with Air. \Mlham Al. Jieebe, Jr., a private in 
 general ser\'ice, and formerh' Secretary to tlie Chief Signal 
 Officer, in charge of the relief work. 
 
 The XcptiDie touched at Godhaven on the 17th and took 
 on supplies; then directing her course slowly and with diffi- 
 culty acrijss Melville Bay, she came in sigiit of Cape York 
 on the 2r)th; Littleton Island was reached on the 29th, where 
 she was blocked l)y ice and (jl)liged to return and aiichoi' in 
 Pandora Harbor. The next forty days the Xeptune made 
 fruitless eff(jrts to enter Kane Sea. In the course of her many 
 failures t(j penetrate to the north, she found anchorage between 
 Ca])e Sabine, Brevoort Island, wlierc Bee1)e examined the 
 Engli-li cache made by the Diseovcrij in 1875. Tliis cache, 
 of so much importance to Greely's men later, was found 
 to coutain one barrel of canned licf, two tins (forty !:)0un(is 
 eacii) of bac(,)n, one barrel Cone hundred and ten ])ounds) dog- 
 ])i>cuil, two Ivarrels iono hundred and twenty rations each) 
 bi<cuit, nil in good condition ; two hundred and f(jrty rations, 
 c(.)nsi-ting of chocolate and sugar, tea and sugar, ]iotatoes, 
 wicks, inbacco, salt, stearin, onion poAvder, and matclu^s, in 
 fairly good condition. Beelx^ failed to leave an}' proA'isions 
 of liis own. 
 
 On Augu-t 2.1, -AiWv a fourth trial Xo penetrate the pack, the 
 ?\'t pfitne I'eturned to Littl'^ton Island with tlie intentit)n (jf 
 making dei^ots. Natives Ijeing in the vicinity, who in all
 
 880 THE GREAT WHITE yORTll 
 
 prohabilit}' would steal any deposits left, l^eehe concluded 
 to ])ost])oiie uuikiug tlie cache and i)i'(jceeded to Cai)e ."^ahine. 
 Here he dej)osited, accordhig U) liis orders, two hundred and 
 fifty rati(jus, one-ei<i,hth of a cord of hirch wood, and a wliale- 
 botd. Tlie Xcpluuc then made a fifth attempt to penetrate 
 the pack, and a<iain on Se})teml)er 2, her sixth and final effort. 
 L'indiii,;j; it inipossil)le to advance, she returned to Littleton 
 Ishuid, and a second depot of two hundred and hfty rations 
 was caclied. Slie now start(>d on her homeward voyage, 
 ^^eplemher o, 1SS2. I^eehe, havin.a,' cari'ied out to the letter 
 liis instructions fi'om tlie si,<i;nal office, for tlie relief of the 
 Lad}- Lranlslin I^.ay expedition, and left two (lei)ots of tw(j 
 hundred and fift\' rations, or ten da\'s' sup])ly, rc^turned to 
 St. Jolm'-, c;u'ryin;i: safely from the barren shores of the Arctic- 
 two thousand rations, or a full su])])Iy f(jr thre(> months. 
 
 The return of tlu.' relic^f party of fSS2 made the expedition 
 that was to fdlow the ru-xt sunmier one of <i;rave im])ortance. 
 In the course of (official communication on the subject between 
 th('( 'hicf Sisi'iial < )flicer and the Secretary of \\'ar, ( len.eral Ilazen 
 slated thai "it is nujsl desii'able that the officer and the 
 enlisted men v^lio ai'e to ji;o next yeai', b-e det.ailcd as ear!}' a^ 
 ])rccticablc, in oi'dcr that th(>y ma\' lie trained an.d have ex- 
 perience' in rowin,u' and mana.u'inu' boats, and in 1 he use of boat 
 coinpa--e-. ... Il i< desii'able lliat men be selected wl;ose 
 sei'\ice has i leen in t he n off Invest , and it is also iiuporl ant that 
 the ( litire jjai'ty, before ti'oin.u', shuidd be familiar with boats 
 and their manau'ement inider all condition-. 
 
 In the Secret ar\-'s re])ly. the sim'U'esi ion is \-()lunteered, "It 
 seems i!iat ii wouM be niucli more de-ir;ib!e ti; endeax'our to 
 procure from the \a\'y the [)er>ons wlio ai'e needed i'or this 
 relief party." 'bo tlii- ('.eneral Ilazen m.'nle answer: - 
 
 "To cliaiiue 1 he t'ull coiit roi of t his duty now A\'ould he -wap- 
 pinu' lior-e- while cro-,-inu' tlie stream, and when in the middle 
 of i l,i' -i iv;iiii. T( MuaiKiu'e it wit li mi xed con t I'ol , oi' eN'en wl t li
 
 OFFICIAL FLANS FOR aUFELV'S UFLLEF IN ISS:] 381 
 
 mixed arms of the service under a single control, would be 
 liazardous, and such action is strongly advised against by the 
 many persons of both Army and Xavy I have discussed the 
 subject with. The ready knowledge of boats and instru- 
 ments is but a very small part of the indispensable requisites 
 in tills case. This whole work has required a great deal of 
 attention and study from the first, and I have not a doubt 
 but any transfer of control now would result in failure to 
 convex- all the threads of this half-finished work, and that it 
 would work disastrously in many ways. In view of these 
 facts, 1 would consider the transfer now of any part of this 
 woi'k to any other control as very hazardous and without any 
 a])i)arent promise of advantage." 
 
 First Lieutenant Ernest A. Garlington of the 7th Cavalry, 
 having volunteered his services, was ordered, February (3, 
 1SS3, to report at Washington. Since liis graduation from 
 the A lilitary Academy in 187G, he had served with his regiment 
 at F(.)i't Buford, Dakota Territory. Four enlisted men who 
 had volunteered were also ordered from Dakota. 
 
 Trie Proteus was chartered and made ready for her voyag(\ 
 A request was made by the Chief Signal Officer on the 14th of 
 Alay tliat a Xavy vessel should be detailed for service in con- 
 iKH-tion with the expedition, "as escort to bring back informa- 
 tion, rendcn- assistance, and take such other ste])s as might l^e 
 ncH'cvsary in case of unforeseen emergencies.'' The Yantic, 
 nndvY ('ommandtn- Frank AVildc^s, was selected, and under- 
 went such prc]:)arati()n as the limited time permitted. 
 
 Carlisigtoii was instruct (\1 to examine, if possible, all depots 
 of provisions and re]:)lace any damaged articles of food, and if 
 the Pi'dU'us could not g(4^ through, the ])arty and stores should 
 be landed at Life-Boat CovCjtlie vessc^l sent back, and th(^ pjirty 
 sliould remain. The Ydjitic was to accompany the I^rolci's 
 a- far as Littleton Ishuid and render such a-sist ance as niiglit 
 !)ecome ncH'essary. Lieutenant J. C. Colwell of the Xavy,
 
 oOli THE GREAT WUITE yOUTII 
 
 ha\-inf^ voluntoered his services, was detailed to accompany 
 Garlin,uton. Tli(> Proteus and the Yantic left St. J(jhii's the 
 29th (jf June, 1S<S.'], and were soon out (jf sijiht of each othc]-. 
 
 The Proteus encountered ice in Melville Bay. Clarlin^ton 
 examined the Xares cache of ei^tihtcen hundred raticjns on 
 Southea>t ('ary Island, GO jjer cent of the rati(jns ])rovin<i to 
 be in ,ii<iod C(jndition. There is no record that the 40 per 
 cent were re])laced from the Protcu-s's stores. 
 
 Littlet(jn Island was pa.-sed without a cache being left 
 there. Tlie ice ]:)reventerl an advance, and (iarlington there- 
 ti])!)n diccided to go to ("ape Sabine "t(_> examine cache thei'e, 
 leave records, and await fuitlier developments." ".Vt half- 
 pa>t three the Prof ens came to anclujr at Payer Hai'bor/' 
 writes Schky. "Slie remained at her anchorage from 3;oO 
 to 8 P.M. This stay of four hours and a half at ('a])e Sabine 
 was a 1urning-])oint in the hi>tory of the I'clicf cxjx'dition. It 
 was made u|) (jf golden moments. It i- true that no one (Mjulfl 
 joredict that by tliat time next day X\iv Prntcus wouM be at the 
 bottom of tlie Kane Sea. It is al-o true that ( larlington's 
 instructions had been officially construed as not including the 
 formtition (jf de|jot< on tlie wa_y nortli. and that tlic im])oi'- 
 tancc of reacliing Lad}' Frankliii li'iy had been impre-sed 
 u]")on hi- mind as the main pur])o-c of lii-^ e!iter])ri-c. .\t 
 till' same time it was kiiown with tolerable cer{;i.inty tiiat two 
 months later ^Ireely v.'ordd b(> at that ])oint. il' he carried out 
 hi- iiitent ioii- : .and the c'lnnnandei' of the rehef expeijition, 
 allliough not (■x])re-sly dii'ected to land anywhei-c. liad been 
 in-tructed tlial if hmdinu'- sli(iul(l he made at point- wliere 
 cache> of ])i'o\'isions were located, he wa^. if j)o-<iblc. to ex- 
 amine them, and r('j)l;ice ;iny damagi^d .article- of food. 
 
 " Xow" t [lei'e A\-crc two caehi'S ;it oi' near ( "ajte .^al )!ni'. ( )ne 
 (if lli('ni, left by I'jicjir t!ic yc;n- bcffirc, \\-;i< ai'oiind the ])oint 
 of the capi', ']"!;(■ oilii-r, f'fl by X;in'- in l^T."). \\'a- oti Stalk- 
 neclit 1-land, a long, low rock in tlie iiarbour it-elf, due \\cst
 
 '' PROTErs'' cur SUED IN ICE 388 
 
 from BiH^voort Island, and close to it. The position of the 
 cache was well known. Jkn^he had visited it in 1882. The 
 Frotcus was now at Payer Hai'bor, prohahly within half a mile 
 oJ' Stalknecht Island ; and on board the \'(^ss(d were the four 
 de])ots of provisions, of two hundred and fifty rations each, 
 that had Ijeen arranged at Disco to be in readiness for landing 
 at some time and at any time." 
 
 (larlington ordered two privates to land and take a set of 
 observations, while he went with a party of men to examine 
 the caches. The repair of a cache and the set of (observations 
 are all The work reported as having been done at Cape Sabine 
 on the way nortli. 
 
 ( hii'lington tluni put to sea, and followed the open leads 
 of water to the nortlnvard. After an advance of twenty 
 miles, the ship was stojoped by the pack near ('a])e Albert. 
 Tiie following da.v slu- was crushed, and the crew and relief 
 ])arty took to the floe, tlirowing overboard such stores and 
 ])i'o\isions as camc^ to hand. Lieutenant C'olwell was the last 
 man to leav(> th(> ship. Clarlington and his party of fifteen 
 men, tAvo whale-boats, and ])rovisions for foi'ty days reached 
 CajH' Sabine in safety. He now followed the " W'ildes-Gar- 
 liugtou agreement," which said "Should Proteus b(> lost, 
 ])ush a boat Avith ])art>' south to )'(!/i(lc." 
 
 ( iariington's record left by him on Bi'evoort Island read in 
 })art : — 
 
 ■'De])ot landed . . . oOO rations of bread, tea, and a lot 
 of citnued goods. ('ach(> of 200 rations ; left l)y expedition of 
 1SS2, A'isit(Ml by me, and found in good condition, k'nglish 
 d('iM)t in damaged condition, not \-isited by me. Cache on 
 Littleton Island: boat at Isabella. L. S. S. Ya/itic on her 
 wa>' to Littleton Island, with orders not to (m\vv ic(^ ... T 
 \\'\[[ endea\"our to communicate witli thes(^ vess(>ls at once. 
 I'^'ei'ytb.ing in ))owiM' of n.ian will be done to rescue the 
 (Cireely'sj brave men."
 
 ■]X4 THE <niEAT WHITE yoilTH 
 
 ■'Tr transpired," wi'ites Groely, "that there was no l)oat 
 at I>al)e!la ; that ( iarhhigton's orders to re])lace damaged 
 eaches were imperative and disol)eyed ; that he had no knowl- 
 (>dge that the Littleton Island cache was safe ; that at 
 Sal line he to()k eveiy pound of food he could reach, though 
 told that (Ireely was pr(jvisioned only to August, 18^3; 
 and that after Colwell's skill had hrouglit (larlington safe t(; 
 tlie y untie, lie did not even ask AMlde to go nortli and lay dowii 
 food for ( Ireely, oth.erwise doomed to >tarvati(jn." 
 
 On Septeniher 13, 1SS3, C',arlington wrote from St. John's, 
 Xewfoundland, to the Chief Signal (JfTicer, U. S. A., AVashin.g- 
 ton : — 
 
 ''It is ]ny painful duty to report total failure of the cxjX'di- 
 tion. The Profeiis was cru-hed in pack in latitude 70^ .')2', 
 longitude 74° 23', and sunk on the afternoon of the 2-'kl July. 
 -My party and crew all saved. ^lade my way across Smith 
 Sound and along ea>tern sliore (jf (^ape York ; thence across 
 Melville l:5ay -to ri)ernavik. arriving there on 2Jth Aug. 
 The Yaiiiic reached U])erriavik 2d Sept. and left same day, 
 bi'inging entire party liere to-day. All v.'('ll." 
 
 To telegrajjliic inquiries fr(jm the Signal Office asking 
 wliat >t!)re> had heen left for Circely. came an.-wc'r : — 
 
 '■\o >tor('s landedi licfure sinking of >\\\]). Aljout five 
 hundred rations from tho-e sa\'ed, cached at C'a])e Sakiiie : 
 ako !a!'ge cache of clothing. l)}' the lime -uitaUe ve--e!s 
 ;'o;;ld t'C procui'ed. filled, provisioned, ele., ii would he loi) 
 hUi- in ihe -ea-on to aeeouiplisji aii\uhing thi> year."" 
 
 We leave !o the imagination the alarm arou>e(l \)y tlie 
 -udden realization of what thi- failure mcaiU to our feilo\v- 
 count r\-!neii at kort Oonu'(>r. J-'rom July. ls>2, to Augu-t, 
 lss:j. not le-~ than .")(), IKK) rations were taken in the -teaniers 
 A ( jit II III . Ynnlic. and I'mli //>■, up to or keyc/ud Lit t lei on Inland, 
 a!idofl!ia1 nmnlifi- akiMit 1(K)() were left in that vicinily. 1 he 
 ri'inaiiidcr lieing I'etm'iieil to the Lnited State- oi' ~unk witli 
 the I'mti lis.
 
 (ii:M:nAi. A. W . ( ;i;i_i:i.y. I'.S.A. 
 
 r, ,.,-,,.., ,,/■ r/;„,, /;„,./
 
 GAULryfnox's he ire at 080 
 
 The date of Giirlingtoii's letter read '"September 13." 
 With what horror did it (hiwn upon the puhhe mind that tlie 
 abandonment of the AV(dl-supi)lied station at Fort Congc^r 
 was ordered "not later than" Se})teml)er 1. Even now 
 («r(>ely and his men, leaving behind them a seant year's 
 army rations, and earrying with tlu^n every pound of food 
 ])()ssible, were making their hazardous retreat in "heavily 
 laden l)oats through water-Avays crowded with ice, acted on 
 by strong currents and high winds, the recurring heavy gales, 
 keeping the ])ack in constant motion, to and fro against the 
 ])recipitous and rockljound coast." 
 
 "Time and again," writes (ireely, "'"only the most des|)(n'ate 
 elTorts and measures secunnl the safety of the specially 
 strength(>n(>(l launch, while the whale-boat escaped destruction 
 oidy by speedy unloading and drawing-u]) on floes. Every 
 cach(\ however small, was taken up, ending with damaged, 
 mouldy in'ead, etc., at Cape Hawks." 
 
 Fort Conger had Ijcen abandoned August 9, 1883 ; on 
 Se])temb(>r 13. the whale-boat had l)een left iu'liind (afterward 
 r(H'overed), and the men were fighting their desperate way 
 across the pack to the shore. The following day Greely 
 made this entry in his journal : — 
 
 ""The absence of sufficient light to cast a shadow has had 
 \'(>ry unfortunate results, as s(>veral of the men in the past 
 few days have Ixhmi sadly l)ruised or strained. ^^'llen no 
 shadows form an.d the light is feeble and bh^uled, there is tiie 
 same uncertainty about ou(>"s walk as if the dcH>]K>st darkness 
 ]>re\-ailed. Th(> most careful observation fails to advis(> you 
 as to wheth(>r ihe next step is to In^ on a U^vel, up an incline, or 
 over a pr(H'ii)!ce. These conditions ar(^ i)erhaps the n.iost 
 ti'ving to Sergeant Brainai'd, who, b(>ing in a(h'ance selecting 
 our road, linds it nec(^ssary to trav(>l as i-a])idl\' as jiossilde. 
 A few bad falls (luite demoralize^ a man, and malvc him niorc^ 
 tbian i^N'cr doubtful of his senses. Tra\'ellip.ii' slowlv, with our
 
 ;)8iJ THE aniJAT white xortii 
 
 li(':i\ ily hidcii slo(li>;(^s, wo mr(dy suffer much from this trouble. 
 ;is oui' slcj)s are slow and uucerlaiu at the l)est, hut when a 
 jai' does come on u man |)uUiii<i,- his best, it gives liis system a 
 great shock and strain." 
 
 On Sej)leml)er 17, aU articles that were not of \'ital im])or- 
 tance were a!)andoned, and yet the men wer(> hauling about 
 six thousand i)()UU(ls. At the end of a weary day Sergeant 
 Brainard wrotc^ in his journal : — 
 
 '"Turned in at 11 p.m., after ten hours of the severest 
 ])liysical strain. As the sl(H'ping-bags (of thos(M)f us in the 
 tepee) are protected from the ice by only one thickness of 
 canvas, our e(,)mfort can l>e imagined." 
 
 ddir(>e da\'s later he adds : — 
 
 ''We are now cai'rying bui'dcMis which would crush ordinary 
 men, but tlu^ tcxtui'e of the party is of the right sort, and 
 adversity will hav(^ \'ery litll(> effect on our spirits." 
 
 On S(>pt ember 2'.), bSS;^, (Jreely made a landing at a 
 ])()int midway bet\v<'(Mi Cape Sabine^ and Isalxdla, aft(>r fifty- 
 one dax's of the most arduous tra\'(d. 
 
 "The ret I'eat from ( 'onger to ( 'a])e Sabine," writers (Ireely, 
 ''in\-olved o\-er four hundred miles' trav(d b}' boats, and fully 
 a huiidi'ed with sledge and boat ; the greater i)art of which 
 was made under cii'(aunstances of such grcnit i)eril or immi- 
 nence of danger ;ts to test to the utmost \\\v coui';ig(\ coolness, 
 and endui'ance of any ])a.rty, and tlu^ ca])acity of any com- 
 mandci'. As to m\' oflicers and men, it is but scant jUstic(>to 
 sa\' I lint they \[ivi.'{\ resolutely e^•ery dange-r, endui'cd clieerfull\' 
 e\'ci'v liai'd-hij), and were fully ('(jual to excry emergency 
 (and tliey wei'e m;ui>') of our eventful retreat." 
 
 ( )ti ( )ct((!)er ."), hieutenant Lockwood sa>'s : — 
 
 "We h;(\'e now three chances for our liv(\< : hirst, finding 
 Americ.'in cache suflicient at Sabine or at Isabella ; second. 
 of eriis-iiig the ^li'aits wlien oui' pre>ent i'ations ai'e gone: 
 thii'd, of shooting suflicient seal and walrus near by here to
 
 aUEELY S AllAyDOyMKNT OF FORT C0\(;FI! oS i 
 
 last (lurins; the winter. Our situation is certainly alarming in 
 the (^xtrenie." 
 
 These men were shelterless, with but a small food su})])ly, 
 Avith impassabl(> liarriers of ice north and scjuth. ''Some 
 huntcnl on land, others on ice ; some put up stont^ huts, 
 otluM's s(^arched for cairns and records." The Arctic night 
 had settled upon them before their huts were barely finished, 
 these huts of heavy granite stones, dug from tlie snow and ice, 
 lifted with >woll(>n and bleeding luuids, ])ut in place with 
 back-breaking effoi'ts, by enfeel)led, w(>aiy men, and into 
 tliem they crawled with torn clothing, han.d and footgear in 
 holes, covering shivering, aching Ijodies. 
 
 In this desperate plight, scouts returned with news of the 
 sinking of th(» Proteus and with the notice from Lieutenant 
 (larlington, describing tlu^ disaster, his ])lans and his retreat, 
 and the caches of ])rovisions at Cape Sabin(\ Relying on the 
 ex]:)ress(Ml -promise that ■'(^•er\'thing witliin the jiov.'cr of man 
 will \)v done to rc>scue the 1)raA'e men at Fort Conger from 
 their perilous ])osition,"' Creely at onc(^ endeavoured to move 
 his ])arty near that point. '''Camp Clay'' was establislicd on 
 iUnlford Pim Island, which was I'eached October 15, with forty 
 days' rations to tide ovei' two hundred and fifty days of dark- 
 ness and misery until help coTild come. Another hut was 
 erecteil by \]\v sanu> arduous int^thods em])lo}'ed in building 
 former huts. The rock vralls were about two feet thick 
 and llu'ee feet high : outside this wall was an embankment of 
 snow at fnvt four f(H^t thick, l)ut as tlu^ seas(^n aih'anced the 
 winter gales buried the hut entii'ely in snow. 
 
 "The whale-boat just caught on the cud walls, and tmder 
 that boat was th.c only ])lace in which a man could e^'en get 
 on his knees and hold himself erect. Sittin.g in ou.r bags, 
 the head-- of the tall men t ouclietl the roof." " ( 'om])ai'ed to 
 oiu' i)re\ ious (juarler,-." writes ( ireely, "" the house is \'v-a!'m, but 
 \\'e are so li!!ddle(| and cfoM'd(>(l togeiliet' tlia.i tiie conlinetnent
 
 o.sx THE (iiiKAT WHITE yoimr 
 
 is almosi iii1()l('r;it)l(\ Tlio nu^n, thousli wr(4ch('d from cold, 
 hard work, and liungcM', yvX retain tlu>ir spirits wonderfully." 
 
 It now behooved the party to <i;ather in the stores from 
 all the caches, and this was done under the most trying condi- 
 tions. The news of tlu^ loss of tlu^ Jcdiuictte was learned by a 
 newspaper found among the stores and brought in with other 
 articles. Records and instrumc^its of the Lady Franklin 
 Bay expcMlition Avere safeh^ cached early in October on Stalk- 
 ruH'ht Island. 
 
 Dui'ing the few remaining days of light, the hunter. Long, 
 with 1h(^ I'lskimo, remained out of tlie floe; in th(> intcnise cold, 
 ill fed, without shelter, for the ])urp()se of securing seals or 
 oth.er game tliat might hv seen. A seal was all that was se- 
 cu]'e(l undei" tlu^ most trying circumstances. 
 
 When certain (jf tlu^ st(jres were examined to asccMiain 
 their condition, the dog biscuits w(M'e (evidently bad, but 
 ''\\'hen this br(nid, thoroughly rotten and covc^red with green 
 mould, was thrown on the grcjund, the half-famished men 
 sprang to it as wild animals would." ( )ctober 20, LSS3, marked 
 the last day of suidight for one hundred and t(Mi days. The 
 hunters still pui'sued their labours, but witliout success. IIow- 
 e\'er, on the last day of the month, ''I^t'iidcM' was fortunate 
 enough to kill a bhu^ fox with his fisT ; it was caught with its 
 head in a meat-can." 
 
 All rations liad been c(/ilected (>xc(>pt one hundreil and 
 forty-four i)ounds of b(>ef cached bsy Xarc^s in 187"), jbi'ty 
 miles (li>1ant at ( "a])e Isabella. A further reduction of the 
 ([Uantity of Food s(>rved to eacli man was inaugui'ated Xo- 
 \-'"!n.b('r 1. 'rh(> following da\' liice, I'^rederick, l^li>on, and 
 ]>yini started in the Arctic niglit foi' ^'[\]tv l-abcjla ; on the 
 fifih il:i\- out ihcy I'eaclicd tlieii' d(>st iiial ion aftci' tlic most' 
 hazardou- I I'ax'c! in 1 cnipi-ral nres I'anging fi'om -^20" 
 to— 2.V'' with only .-ixteen ounces of food ])ei' day 1o each 
 man. Taf.ing \\\) their cach(> of meat, they startinl on th(3
 
 GllEKLY RKACUES CAPE SAliLXE 889 
 
 return journey. On reaching their first camp after fourteen 
 hours of hard trav(4, Ehson, who had done t liis (hiy's work on a 
 cup of t(ui and no food, was found to hav(> frozen lioth his hands 
 and feet. "Our skH^ping-bag was no niori^ nor less than a 
 sheet of ice," writes Frederick in his journal. "1 ])laced one 
 of Elison's hands between my thighs, and Kice took the other, 
 and in this way we drew the fi'ost from his })oor frozen limbs. 
 This poor fcdlow cried all night from pain. This was one of 
 the worst nights I ever spent in the Arctic." 
 
 Continuing the next two days with their half-frozen com- 
 rade, they reached Eskimo Point. Here they cut u]) an 
 abandoned ice-})oat for fuel, and (nideavoured to thaw out 
 Elison's lim!)s and dry his clothing. ''When the i)oor fellow's 
 face, feet, and hands connnenced to thaAv from the artificial 
 lieat." says Fredeiick, "his sufferings were such that it was 
 enough to bring the strongest to tears." 
 
 After labouring nineteen hours for the welfare of their 
 suffering comrade. Rice and Fretlerick attempted to advanc(>. 
 — "\\'e tri(>d to k(M>p Elison in front of us, but to no avail. 
 He would stagger off to one si(l(\ and it sec^ned every moment 
 that tlie fi'ost V\'as striking dcn^per into the i:)oor nian/'s flesh. 
 We fastened a ro]ie to his arm and the sledge, as it now took 
 three men to haul our load, but every few j'ods the poor fellow 
 would fall, and tlien sometimes he was dragged stn'eral feet. 
 Xo ])erson can imagine how that ])oor man suff(>r(ul." 
 
 T^nabl(» to haul Elison ariv fartluM', in lhe face of a gah^ 
 and 11u^])iercingt(Mn])erature of —20', it was decided tliat Rice 
 siu)uld start for Ctun]) Clay for assistance. With only a l:it (/f 
 fi'o>:(ni nuvit for food, he startcxl alon(^ in the Arctic darkness 
 and travelled t\V(>nty-tive miles in sixt(^en hours, reaching the 
 cam]) at midnight. Inunediafe relief was start (m1, SiM'geant 
 Brainard and ( 'hristiansen leading tlu^ ad\"ance. to be fol- 
 1o\V(m1 two hours later l)y Lieutenant Loclavood, the doctor, 
 and four of the nu^n.
 
 ■J'.'O THE GUEAT WIUTE yoUTIl 
 
 The ft^urful nijiiit spent by Frederick, Lynn, and their 
 frozen (•<)iiij);ini<in e;in liardl\- he j)ictnred. ''We tried to 
 warin liini," sa\'s '''i-edcriek, "ijut as we lay helj)less and 
 slii\-erin,Li,' w\\\\ the c(jld, and jxjor l'dis(jn <j;roaninii; with hun- 
 <i;er (lii.s frozen li})s dirl n(jt ])ennit hini t(j <i;naw the; frozen 
 meat) and ])ain, \'ou can inia<i,'ine how we felt. Lynn was a 
 Ktron<i', ahle-hodied man. Ijut Ihe mental strain cansecl l)y 
 J'dison's surferin,<i;s made him weak and lielpless. Li fact, 
 I was ai'raid that his mind would b(; im])aired at (jne time. 
 We were l)ut a few hours in the hajj; when it Ixicanu; frcjzen s(j 
 liard that w(; could not turn o\-er, and we had to lay in one 
 ])o-ition ei«2.hleen hovu's ; until, to oiH' great relief, we heard 
 J>rainard"s eheering voice at our side. There was nothing 
 m(jre welecjjue than the pre-ence (jf that nolde man, who had 
 C(jme in ad\'cUiee \\-iili l)i-;uid\' for Idi^on and fo(jd for all.'' 
 
 The r(-r;cue l)arty, although weak and half-star\-ed tlieiu- 
 selves, I'f'iiched J'di-on with all de-pateh to hnd him in a \-ery 
 critical eondition; his haiuU and feet W(a'e frozen solid; his 
 face frozen \() such an extent that there; was little semblance 
 of humanit\'. 
 
 If Xo\"emlier was ushere(l i'l with such mi-fortune, the 
 succeeding month.< record a hi>tory of uni)a!'alleled mi-ei"}' and 
 Mii'fering. The huntei's wei'c ever on llie alert, and th(.' occu- 
 sioiud gauie brouglit in was the oid\' cheer that .-urroiuided 
 lhe-e faiui-hiug outca-ts. A seal, a In^ar, a few foxe>. (lo\-ekies, 
 aud ])ta!'migan were all that the desolate laml ga\"e forth to 
 the uiu'emillitig \'igilance of the huntei's, and, re(luced to the 
 la-t ext I'emit ie-; of famine, ,-hrimps, seaweed, reiudeer-mcjs-, 
 saxifi'age, and lichens wi^re diligentl}' sought for ainl de\-oured. 
 
 ( )n Tliank-gi\'ing I)ay,- what irony in the mere name, — 
 t lie-e men celehi'ated hy a lit! le extra allowance (jI' food - and 
 
 ( ll'eely Wl'f it e iu hi- jolU'Ual : -- 
 
 "To-da}' We ha\'e be<.'n nlinn.<t happy, and had ulniod eiiough 
 to eat ."
 
 Tin: BFJnXNING OF A HAND WIXTER 891 
 
 On Doccnibor 9, there is rejoicing I)ecause Brainard and 
 Long shot two hkio foxes. 
 
 "We are all very weak," writes Lieutenant Lockwood, ten 
 days later, "and I feel an apatliy and cloudiness inijiossible 
 to shake off. It is a great difficulty to know each night just 
 how much brc^ad to save for hreaklast on the morrow, — hun- 
 ger to-night fights hunger to-morrow morning. I always eat 
 ]ny bread rc^gretfully. If I eat it b(>fore tea, I regret that I did 
 not keep it ; and if I wait until tea comes, and then eat it, I 
 drink my tea hastily and do not get the satisfaction 1 other- 
 wise would. What a miserable lif(\, when a few crumbs of 
 bread Aveigh so on one's mind I It seems to be so with all the 
 rest. All sorts of expedients are tried to cheat one's stomach, 
 but with al)out the same result." 
 
 On December 21, Lieutenant Greely says : — 
 
 "Sergeant Brainard is twenty-seven to-day. I gave him 
 half a gill of rum extra on that account, regretting my inabil- 
 ity to do more for him. He has worked exceedingly hard for 
 us this winttM' ; and, while all have done their best, his (Midur- 
 ance, unusual eciuanimity of temper, and impartial justice 
 in connection with the food have [)een of invaluable service 
 to me." 
 
 "Mouldy hard bread and two cans of soup make a dinner 
 for twelve," says I^rainard. "At I'ort Conger ten cans of 
 souji were iKH'dcd to b(>gin dinner. But even the dire calam- 
 il\' which now confronts us is insufficient to rc^press th(> gri^at 
 iiow of good natur(> in our jiarty g(>nrrally." 
 
 "A tcri'iblc sci'uc^ occurrinl in our wretched hut during the 
 morning," writers Brainard, March 24. bSSd. "While pre])ai- 
 ing ltr(>a!xfas1 (toa) the cooks luul forgott(Mi to removi^ th(^ 
 bundle^ of I'ags from the ventilators in tlu^ I'oof, and tlu^ fumes 
 thi'own off by the alcoliol k'.m])s, being confin(Hl to the small 
 breathing s]>aee, soon producnl as])!iyxia. I^)i(>dtn'bick, one 
 of the cooks, was the first to succumb to its elTects, and
 
 •V.)li THK CHEAT WIIITK XORTII 
 
 Israel iiiinu>(liatel\- aftc^'wards became insensible. At the 
 suggestion of (iarcliner, all the rest of us rushed for the door, 
 an.d the ])lugs were at once removed from the roof and the 
 lamps extinguished. By prompt attention, Dr. Pavy suc- 
 ceeded in reviving Israel and Biederbick. Tlujse wIhj went 
 outside were less fortunate than those who faint(Ml in their 
 l)ags. As soon as they came in contact with tlie pui'e outside 
 air, all strength departed, and they fell down on the snow in an 
 unconscious state. In cons(H|Uence of the absence of all 
 animation, many of us were frost-bitten — Licnitimaut Clreely 
 and myself ([uite severely. The liv(\- of several of the men 
 were i)i'<jbably saved through the nobk- efforts of ( hirdiner, 
 who, though weak and .-ick, did all in his power to get us in the 
 liut. . . . During th(> excitement oi the hour al)out half a 
 |)ound of biacon was stolen from Lieutenant Greely's mess, 
 and as soon as the fact becanKMvUoAvn. great indignation was 
 expressed that in our midst li\-ed a man with nature so vile 
 and corrupt — so utterly- devoid of all feelings of humanity — ■ 
 a- to steal from his starving com])ani(.)ns when they were 
 thought to be dying. A deed so cont(>m])tible and heartl(^s^4 
 could not l(-)ng remain concealed from lho>e wIkj had been 
 injured. We were not disapipointed in the disco\-ery tliat 
 Ilenry wa-^ the tliief. Fle had literally bolted the liacon. and 
 hi< -toniach wa- o\'erloaded to such a degree that, in its en- 
 feebled state, it could n(jt retain thi- umisual (iuantit\' of 
 fniid, and his crinu^ was thus detected. ,Jcn> aftej-warik 
 i'e))orted lia\'ing seen him c(»mmit tlu> tlieft, and illustratiMl 
 by -iu'n< \i]< mamiei' of doing it."' 
 
 "Poor ■-uiVerini!; 1-ni-on!" he writes a few day> later. 
 "Tiii- morninii; he turne(l to the doctor and said. ' M>' Toes 
 art'- IturninL!: dT'cadfully. and the soles of my feet are itchino,' in 
 a \'ery uncomfortable maimer: c;in you not do something to 
 relif\-c I'li- irritation'.'' He little di'e;im< that lie ha< ntather 
 t<M- nor feet : t he\- ha\'inu' >lotiuiied off in .bmuar\'.''
 
 DEATH FROM STAR VAT FOX 398 
 
 On ^larcli 21, (Irccly nuikos tlii.s entry : — 
 
 "A storm ])n'V(>nt.s hunting. ... It i.s surprising with 
 what cahnncss we view dc^ath, which, strongly as we may hope, 
 seems now inevitable." 
 
 As the gaunt and ghostly form of Death laid its fatal 
 touch upon the weakest one by one, a strong man stole food 
 fi'om conn'ad(\s, and stok^ again, and justly forfeited his right 
 to live. Then one by onc^ they died, the Eskimo, Christiansen, 
 from (whaustion, and Lynn. "He asked for water just before 
 dying : and we had none to give." 
 
 Then Rice sacrificed his life for others, dying in the arms 
 of his comrade, Frederick, near Baird Inlet, where he had 
 gone in search of a hundred pounds of English beef abandoned 
 in Xovember, that Elison might be brought to camp alive. 
 Then Lockwood died and Jewell failed — and soon joined his 
 sleei)ing comrades, and yet in face of liorror crowding upon 
 horror, there is an entry : — 
 
 ■"On Easter Sunday we heard on our roof a snow-bird 
 chirping loudly — the first harbinger of spring." 
 
 In the meantime, the chief dependence of this rapidly 
 diminishing party was derived from the gathering of shrimps 
 — or s(>a-lice; the small Crustacea were from onc^-eighth to 
 one-lialf of an inch in length, consisting of about four-fifths 
 shell and one-fifth meat, and al)out seven hundred of them 
 were recjuired tcj weigh an ounce. 
 
 ■'Dr. Pavy says," writes Brainard in his journal, May 20, 
 L8S4, "that ova- food nuist be something more >ubstantial 
 than these shrimps, or none of us can live long. I caught 
 tweh-e ])ounds of these animals to-day, and one ]xnmd of 
 marine vegetation. Returned very much exhausted from this 
 trip. Cannot last nmch longer." 
 
 ■'( 'ater]iillars are now quite numerotis on tlie bare spots of 
 Cemetery Bridge." he writes a day or two later. "Yesterday 
 Bender saw one of these animals crawling over a rock n(,'ar the
 
 394 THE CHEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 tent, uiid after watchiii.ti' it intently for a moment ho liastily 
 transferi'ed it to his mouth, remai'kin.n; as lie did so, 'This is 
 too nuich meat to lose.' '' 
 
 On Alay 29 there was a southeast t^ale and di'ifting snow. 
 Brainard and Lonji; returned from their day's huntinji; with 
 a few pounds of shrimps and a dovekie. "On retui'uinii; to 
 the tent,'' writes l^rainard, "Dr. i\ivy and Lalor I'efused to 
 admit me to their sl(>(>pin«2;-l)a,!j;, in which I occupied a ])lace. 
 Physically I could not enh)rce my riii,hts in this matter, my 
 condition l)orderin,u; on extreme exhaustion, and wishin,u; to 
 avoid any un])leasantness, L crawl(Ml into on(^ of the aban- 
 doned l)a.p;s lyin<i; (jutside, as the only alternative. Idiis baj:^ 
 was frozen and tilled with snow. ( 'an my ,surferin<!;s heimau;- 
 ine(l? They certainly canncjt he (lescril)ed. 
 
 " Sufferin<!,' with I'luaunatism, and smarting under tlu^ sense 
 of wron<i; done me 1)\' my slee))in!i-l)ap; companions, mental 
 agony was added to pliysical tortur(\ 
 
 "To-da\' I caught six ])ounds of shi-imps. This evening 
 (June (5) <limier c()nsiste(l of a stew com])ose(l of two boot- 
 soles, a handi'ul of reindeer moss, and a iCw rock lichens. 
 The small (juantit\' of shrim])s which I furnish daily arc^ sulfi- 
 cient only for the morning meal. 
 
 "Wednesday, June 11, 1SS4. Long returnetl at 1 : 'AO a.m. 
 from the o])en water, bringing with him two tine guille- 
 mots which he had killed. One of these was given to the 
 general mess, and the other will be di\-i(led among thos(> who 
 ai'c doiuL!; the heavy work for their weaker companions. 
 This e\-ening ;i greiit m.isfort une beh'll me. The >i)i'ing tides 
 ha\'e b!-(i!a'n out the ice ;it the shrim])ing i>l;ice. ;md my nets 
 ha\"e b(<en carried away ;nid lost ; my bails, poor and miser- 
 ;ib]e as they were, ai'e gone also. It is aiixthinu but plea,>ant 
 to !-(-llect that to-moi'row niorninii.' we will lia\'e no breakfa-t 
 except a (Mip of lea. It was quite late wlien I retuineil this 
 e\'(-ning from shrimping, and e\-ei'\-b()d\' had retired. 1 did
 
 DEATH FROM STARVATION 31)5 
 
 not luive the heart to awaken tiie poor lellows, hut I let th(Mii 
 sleep on ([nietl}' under th(- ch^usion that breakfast would 
 await them at the usual hour in the morning. How 1 pity 
 them ! 
 
 ''1 mad(! a flag, or distress signal, as it might l)e more 
 pro])(>rly termed, whieli I intend placing on the high, rocky 
 ])oint just north of our tent, where it maj' b(^ seen by any 
 V(>ssel passing ('a])e Sal)ine." 
 
 Ten days later the whistk^ of the Thetis blown f)y Caiitain 
 Schley's orders to recall his searching ])arties h^U lightly on 
 th(^ ears of the dying Conunandcu- of th(^ Lady Franklin Bay 
 ex])edition. 
 
 "I f(>ebly asked Brainard and Long if they had strength 
 to go out," writes (!reely, ''and they answered, as always, 
 that they would do tlunr b(\st." 
 
 From the cutter, as it entered the cove, Li(nitenant C'olwell, 
 straining his eyes, recognized the familiar landmarks of the 
 yc^ai' l)efoi'e. 
 
 "Thcu'e, on the top of a little ridge, fifty or sixty yards 
 al)ove the ic(^-foot, was plainly outlined i\\v figui'c of a man. 
 Instantly the coxswain caught u]) the boat-hook and waved 
 the flag. The man on the ridge had sec^n them, for he stoo])ed, 
 picked u]) a signal flag from the rock, and wav(Ml it in reply. 
 TluMx he was s(Hm coming slowly and cautiously down the 
 st(>ep, rock'y sio])e. Twicc^ w fell down before he reaclunl the 
 foot. As he approached, still walking feel)ly and with diffi- 
 culty, C'()lwell hail(Ml him from the bow of the boat : — 
 
 "'Who ah are there left?' 
 
 "'Scv(Mi left.'" 
 
 "As the cutter struck the ice," continues Schley, "Colwell 
 jumped off and went up to liim. He was a ghastly sight. 
 I lis cheeks were hollow, his eyc^s wild, his hair and Ix^ard 
 long and matted. His army ])l()use, co\'(M'ing several thick- 
 nesses of shirts and jackets, was ragged and dirty. He
 
 ■■V.^6 
 
 TJ1J-: (.HEAT W II LIE y OUT 1 1 
 
 Wore a little fur rap and rouo;h moccasins of untanncnl leather 
 tieil artnunl the leu'. A-- he s]:)oke, his utterance was thick 
 and uiunihlinu'. and in his a^uitatiou his jaws \V(jrke(l in C(jn- 
 \-uhi\-e twitches. As the two met, the man, with a sudden 
 im])ul-e. took off his lihjve an<l -liook ('(jlwell's hand, 
 
 •••Wheiv are they?" aske.l r,,hve!l, hriefly. 
 
 '■"In the tent,' -aid tlie man. ])ointing over his shoulder, 
 'o\"ei' the hill -the tent is down.' 
 
 •••L- Mr, (Ireely alive?' 
 
 " ■ \'es. ( Ireely's alive," 
 
 " ' Any other ofhcers ? ' 
 
 " ■ Xo,' Then he re])eated, absently. 'The t(.'nt is down.' 
 
 '■ ' Who are \'ou ? ' 
 
 '••Lono-.' 
 
 "Pjefore thi- collocjuy was over. L(nve and Xorman had 
 .-tarted u]) tlie liill. Hastily fillimi,- hi< jxxdvct- with bread, 
 and takinu' the two cans of ]")ennnican. ( '(dw('ll told the cox- 
 swain to take Lonu' into the cuttei', and startcil aftei- tlu' 
 other- with A-h, Ileachinu' tlie i-vr^r of the I'idu'e and lookinu; 
 soiitliWai'd, they saw <])read out before them a de-ojate e\- 
 l)an-e of ivjcky u'l'ijund, sloping u'raduallx' f ri im a ridue on the 
 ea-t to the iec-i/iA'ei'ed .-hore, whii'li at the we-1 made in and 
 foi'ined a cox'e, l>ack of the le\"el -])ace wa< a ranu'c of liil!- 
 I'i-iu'j.' uj) eiiiht hun<h'c(l fi^et, wi'h a jirecipitou- face, broken 
 in two 1)\' a uoi-u'e. throuLih which the wiml w;i- b.lowinu' fu!'i- 
 ou-l\', On a little elex'ation ilirertly in iVoii! w.a- tlie tent. 
 Ifurryiim' on aei-o-< tlc' int er\-cninii' hollow, ( 'i •jwi-';! i-ame ui) 
 with Lowe and Xorman, ju>t a- 1 hey were <i,'i'eel ini:- a -oldierly- 
 l(iol-.;i!i'i, ncm, w!io had conie out fi'din the ti-nt. 
 
 A- C '( )i Well a] )])roached, Xorman was -a\'inu' to tlie man. — 
 
 " ' Thei'e i- the hieutenalit.' 
 
 '• And he ad-led to ( olw<'ll. — 
 
 '' 'Thi- i- Si'i-n-eant P)r:iin;ird.' 
 
 '■ Ih'ainard immediately drew himself u]) to the ■i^)-ition of
 
 SCIILKY'S BlilLLIAyr RESCUE ■ 897 
 
 llu' soldier,' and was about to salute, when Colwell took his 
 liand. 
 
 " At this moment there was a confused murmur within the 
 tent, and a v^oice said, — 
 
 '"Who's there?' 
 
 " Xorman answered, 'It's Norman — Xorman who was in 
 the Proteus.' 
 
 "This was followed })y cries of 'Oh, it's Norman!' and a 
 sound like a feel)le cheer. 
 
 " ^kleanwhile one of the relief party, who in his agitation 
 and (wcitc^ment was crying like a child, was down on liis 
 hands and kneels trying to roll away the stones that held down 
 tlie flap])ing tent cloth. . . . There was no entrance, except 
 under the flap opc^ning, which was held down by stones. 
 ( 'olwell called for a knife, cut a slit in the tent cover, and 
 looked in." 
 
 '"It was a sight of horror," continues Schley. "On one 
 side, close to the opening, with his head toward the outside, 
 hi}' what was ai)]')arently a dead man. Ilis jaw had drop]:)ed, 
 his eyes weif op(ni, l)ut fixed and glassy, his limbs were motion- 
 less. On the opposite side was a poor fellow, alive, to be sure, 
 l)ut without hands or feet, and with a spoon tied to the stump 
 of his right arm. Two others, seated on the ground, in the 
 mirddl(\. had just got down a rubber l^ottle that hung on the 
 tent pole, and were pouring from it in a tin can. Directly 
 opposite, on his hands and knees, was a dark man with a long 
 matted beard, in a dirty and tattered dressing-gown, with a 
 little red skull ca]) on liis head, and brilliant, staring eyes. 
 As Oolwell a])]i(Mir(Ml, he raised himself a little, and put on a 
 j)aii- of eye-glasses. 
 
 "' Who ar(> you? ' asked Colwelh 
 
 '■ TIh^ man m;ide no ;mswer, staring at him vacantly. 
 
 " ' ^^'ho are you '.' " again. 
 
 '■ One of the men spoke up, — ■
 
 808 
 
 Till-: (rREAT wnrrr: yoirrn 
 
 '■"Thiit's tlic Major -- Major Circoly." 
 
 " ( 'olwcll ci'awhMl ill and t(^ok him l)y tlio hand, sayinp; to 
 him, — 
 
 " ' ( Irccly. i> tliis you?' 
 
 ■'■ Vcs," >aiil (d'ccly, in a faint, broken voice, licsitatiny; and 
 shufiling with his words; "ye- — >('V('n of us left — here we 
 are — dyinu,- -— iilvc men. Did what I came t(j do — beat the 
 bc<t recoi'd.' 
 
 "The >cene, as Colwell loo]<:cd arounth was one of misery and 
 sf[Ualor. The r(j(-]vy fl(jor was co\-ered with cast-off clothes, 
 and amonti; them were liuddleil tou'f'ther the sleej)in,u'-ba,a:-s 
 in whicli t!ie ])art\' !iad .-pent iiio-t of tlicir time (hu'in.u' the 
 ht-t few niontlis. There was no food left in the tent, but t\vo 
 (jr thret' can- of a thin, i'c])iil-iv('-lookini!.' jelly, ma.dr by IxHlinji' 
 stri])s cut from tlie seal-kin clothing. The Ixjttle on the ti'nt- 
 pole ,-till held a few t ca-noonful- of l)i"andy. but it wa.- their 
 la.-t, and they were .-hariim' it a- C'wlwf'll cutei-ed. It was cx-i- 
 dent that nio-t of them had not lonu' to li\-e. 
 
 '■ rolwell immediately -cut ('hiff l^nu'inec;' Towe back to 
 t!u' cutter to ])ut off to ihi' llinr with Lonij.- Xo j-eijoi'T and to 
 brinu' the >ur,u'eon with st innilant -. Avhilc he \in\ the (Ixina; 
 m'-'ii with bit- of thi- food he had with \\\\\\. A- tln-ir Innm-cr 
 ret uiMK'tl. thr^y ci'icd ])iTei)ii-!y ii)v more : fi-irinu' tno much at 
 one lime would injure tlii'in. ('ol\V"ll wi-i'!y di--uad''d them, 
 but ■ wiii'U <',re(-!y found tha.t he w.a- rci'u-i-d, he took a can 
 of the boiled -('al-kin, Ax-hidi he had carefully hu-lianded, and 
 which he -aid he had :i riu'ht t o e;it . a- it \\'a- hi- own.' 
 
 ■'The weaker one- wei'e like children. i)etu!ant. ram'slini:'. 
 a.nd fitful in tla-ii' talk, ab.-etit. and -ometime< a little inco- 
 
 'I'iie />-(//■ hax'iim' b\' tiii- time ari'i\'i'd. ."^ei-^-eant Lon.Li; 
 
 Wa- lifted from t he cut lep ;,! 
 1;. J- : :ill wei'e d< 
 Wefi' I 111 -hi ire iii 
 
 I, aiKl t!ie!'e toio hi- pUUui 
 
 ■\eeOl ( OV! iv ;i;id fi'.'e otjier-. :i\u\ fhcy 
 ):vdi-;re-- -ore d,i-; re,-.- ■' ; il l.ailbeeil
 
 sciiLEV's r.niLLiAyr hescc'e 891) 
 
 " ii luinl wiut(M','' iiiid "the wonder was how in God's nanio 
 they had |)u11(h1 throu,a,'h.'' 
 
 " Xo words," says Schley, ''can d(\s('ri])c the pathos of 
 tills man's broivcni and eni'eel)ied utt(M'anc(>, as iic said over 
 and over, 'a hard wintiM- - - a iiai'd winter"; and tlie offi- 
 cers wlio were gatliennl al)ont liim in the \\'ard room felt an 
 emotion which most of th(>ni were at little pains to con- 
 ceal." 
 
 Soon after the Thetis came in sight, and her officers, 
 inchidinj.!; brave AlelvilU^, whose last sad offices for De Long 
 had been l)ut lately finislied, went ashore and aided those from 
 the Bear in the can^ and succour of tlu^ forlorn party. 
 
 As soon as i)osslble the men wcmv care^fuU}' moved on 
 stretchers and carried in boats to the shi])s, but not before a 
 hurricane had l)rok(ni upon them, which made the labour 
 hazardous and difficult. 
 
 Meanwhile, Liinitenant Emory of the Bear was making a 
 careful c(jllection of all articles belonging to the camp. Xear 
 the sleeping-])ags wove found little ])ackages of cherished 
 valuables, carefully rolled up, and addrt^ssed to fri(Mids and 
 relativ(\s at honu^ ; the survivoi's, too, had already donc^ up 
 and addr(>ss(>d their own, an.d, strange as it may sc^em, a pockc^t- 
 book was found containing a large roll of bills carried by the 
 owner for some unaccountabk^ reason to the barren shoi'es of 
 Lady Franklin Bay. Jt was not difficult to move the bodies of 
 th(^ di'ad ; then^ was only a thin covering of sand above the 
 mounds that formed the graves. 
 
 Looking out from the side of tlu^ hut to the ice-foot, 
 (^olwc^ll's attention was fixed l>y a dark ol)j(H't on i\\v snow. 
 r\)llowing a ])ath which led to it from where he stood, he found 
 the inutilat(Hl remains of a man's body. 
 
 ■' It was afterward identified fi'om a l)ullet hole," wi'ites 
 Schh-y, "as that of Private Henry, who had been excH'uted 
 on the sixtli of .Iun(\"
 
 400 THE CHEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 Wrapping it in a blanket, Cohvell carried it to tlie landing- 
 ])iaee, wliere a ^^f^aman took the l;undle on his shoulder. 
 Presently the l)oat came off, and all \vho had remained on 
 sh(.)re were taken on hoard the Bear. The ships retm'ned to 
 Payer Harbor. 
 
 ddi(> next da}', June 23, Lieutenant Emory, accompanied 
 by Sebree and Melville, and a number of men made a second 
 search at ("amp Clay, which lasted several hoiu's ; everytliing 
 was gathered up and brought away. 
 
 Th(^ officers of the Thdi>: meanwhile had secured from 
 Stalkneciit b-land Grcely's tin boxes containing his scientific 
 records and standard pendulum. 
 
 The reli(-f sriuadron in 1884 under Captain \V. S. Scl)ley 
 and Conunander ^^^ H. Emory, and fitted out tmder the 
 ])crsonal orders of the Hon. ^^^ E. Chandler, Secretary of the 
 Xav\', had Inilliantly executed its c(.)mmission and had out- 
 ri\'alled the early Scot('li whalers, to wlujni a boimty had been 
 offered by ("ongress for the speedy rescue of Creely, in ])u<l!- 
 ing bcjldl}' through the '"middle ice," '" Xo relief or expedi- 
 tionai-y \-essels e^-er ventur(^d at so early a date into the 
 danger-^ of Ardville Ba}'," writes Creely. 
 
 "ddiat th(- United States Xa\-y won in the race for Sabine 
 is an illustration of tlie wonderful ada])iai)ility and aliundant 
 ]-f-i)urccs f)f the re]iresentative American seaman, which so 
 ^\'(■I1 fits liim for coping successfully with ru-w and untried 
 d;ii!:ici> and makes him a worthy rival of our kin across th(> 
 
 In trium])]i they liorc the renniant of tlie Lady Eranklin 
 I-!;iy ex])ediTi()ii home to relatives and friends. Only six 
 rcaciied America ali\'e fbrave, pitiful T-]]i-()n had died at Cod- 
 h;;\'en. .bily S). six -oldi(-rs out of a com])any of twenty-five, 
 broken in heaith. yet courageous in s])ii'it. and loyal to a nation 
 tliaJ throu'ih '"a liai'd winter — a hard winter — in sore 
 di-tri — — " had left them to their fate!
 
 1{i:ai( .\|)\iii{\i. S( iii.!:t. I .>.\.
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Xaiison. — -The man. — First Arctic experience. — Plans the cross- 
 ing of Greenlantl. — Carries out his great undertaking. — Voyage 
 on tlu> Frani. — Drifting with the current. — Life aboard. — 
 Xansen and Johannesen start for the Pole. — Difhcultii^s of ti'aveh 
 The " l'\u-thest X^orth." — -The retreat. — A winter on the Franz 
 Josef Land. — Attenii)t to reach Spitzbcrgen by kayak. — The 
 nuH'ting at Cape Flora with Frederick Jackson. — Home in the 
 ]Vi)i(kcard. 
 
 The character of the explorer Nansen is best summarized 
 ill the brief paragraph (wplaining his plan for the first crossing 
 of (IrcHnilaiKl. 
 
 "My notion,'' he says, 'Svas that if a party of good 'ski- 
 lobm's' were eciuipped in a ]M'actical and sensibh^ way, they 
 must g(^t across Greenland if thoy l)(\gan from the right side, 
 this lalKM- ])oint being of extreme importance. For if they 
 were to start, as all other (>x]:)editions have (lon(\ from the 
 west side, they were ])racti('ally certain never to get across. 
 They would hav(^ the same journ(\v back again in order to 
 reach home. So it struck u\v that the only sure road to suc- 
 (•('■-> was to forc(> a ])assage through the flo(^-belt, land on the 
 desohite and ic(^-boun(l ivist coast, and tlunicc^ cross over to tlu^ 
 inhabited w(\-^t coast. In this way one would l)urn all one's 
 ships behind one, tluM'e would be no n<HMl to urge one's mem 
 on. as tlu^ (^ast coast would attract no one back, whilc^ in front 
 would Yw the west coast with all th(^ allurenuMits and ameiiili(>s 
 of civilization. There was no choic(> of route, 'forward" being 
 the only word. The order would be : 'Death or the west coast 
 of ( ireeiiland.' " 
 
 ■-' 1. 401
 
 402 THE a HEAT WHTTE XOllTIt 
 
 l)('t\V('(Mi these lines onv ^(.h^^ the fil)re of this man, who (1(>- 
 hherately stakes out liis course and inx'ites a rac(^ with 
 Death to the ^oal of \-i('tory: who carefully curtails to th(> 
 inininnun the ])ossihility of failure ; who thou<i;htftilly rc^- 
 inoves from weaker companions all tem]itations that mi,u,'ht 
 j('0])ar(lize his chances of success, and who carries thi'ou.ii'h 
 a i)lan scoifed at by the world as the im])ra('tical)le scheme; 
 of a madman. 
 
 There is an indescribable charm about this bold Xorwe<>,ian, 
 "who was a terribl(> one for I'allin.u,- into bi'own studit-s,"' as 
 a child : of wliom his masters wrote. "He is unstable, and in 
 se\'eral subjects his ])ro<i'r(\-^s is not nearly so satisfactory as 
 mi,uiit }uiv(> been (>x])ected"' : who combines a ,<i;(nitl(\ child- 
 like disposition with an indomitable will, ne\-ei- doul)tin,<2; 
 foi' an instant that he is I'i^iiht and the world wron<;', and who 
 steadfastly <i'oes to work to pi'ove his ])()int. Ijoi'u in bStil 
 near ( 'hi'istiania : educated in the mu\'(M'sity of his native 
 city ; fond of all the sciences ; trained as a zo()lo^uist : a nat- 
 tU'al athlete, an expert "skilober." a ,uood hunter, with the 
 sj)ir'it for a(h'enture, which is totally careless of all ci'eatmx^ 
 comforts, Fi'idtjof Xansen, at twenty-one, stood on the 
 ])row of the Vil:in(j. a \()rwe<i,ian sealer, bound for Arctic 
 seas, ready to me(>t a h)e woi'thy of his mettle. 
 
 "i"hi< trip to I',a>t (ireenland waters foi- the pui'po>(^ ot 
 iiathei'inu' zo("llo^■ical s])eciin(>ns was followeil by liis a])i)oint- 
 meiit 1 he same year as curator in the Xaiui'al 1 li>to!'y AIu>euni 
 at I'.ei'iivn. 
 
 The i-i'tu!-n of \oi-d<'n>kj("ild in ISS^b from his -ecdud re- 
 markable joui'ney to (Ireen'and.. determineil Xaii-eii upon a 
 >imilar jouriU'X', the succe-s of which he caretuliy planned. 
 \ni'd<ii-kj<ild h.ad made lifteen marche- on the inland ice 
 from Sopliia Ilarbdr >(»ut!i to 1 )isco IJay. and reaehf(l an alti- 
 tmie (if forty-nine hundred feet. seiidiiiL!. ^killed bapjx on -ki,- 
 a fart lii-r di-taMc(' nf one huiidre<l an<l fort \' mile-, where the\'
 
 FIUST ARCTIC EXPERIEyCE 403 
 
 reached an elevation of sixty-six hundred feet, on the marvel- 
 lous iee-cap which still rose before them. 
 
 Accom])anied hy three Xor\v(\iiians, Otto SvcM'drup, Lieu- 
 tenant Oluf ('hristian Dietrichson, of the Xorwe^'ian army, 
 and Kristian Trana, and two Lapps, Balto and Ravna, Nansen 
 sailed on the Danish steamer Thyra from Scotland, May 9, 
 18SS. The Thiji'd was to carry the little hand of explorers 
 the first stag(^ of their journc^y to L'(dand. At the Faroe 
 I>lands, Xansen learned of tlie extrem(d\' had condition of 
 the ice round Iceland. The east coast of the island was re- 
 l)oi-ted inaccessible. By May 17 the Tfnjra stood off the 
 \'estnian!ia Islands, and later she pass(>d Keydjanaes, which 
 cai'i'ies the only li^ti'hthouse Iceland possesses. 
 
 Anchorino; off Thinii'eyi-e, the ])art}' took leave of the 
 T/////V/, and. warmly welcomed by Ilerr Gram, the merchant of 
 Thinu'eyre, they await(Ml the Jason, which was to convey them 
 to the coast of Greenland. On the morninj^' of June 3, the 
 (\xp(M'tant party si^ihtc-d a little steamer slowly workinf); in- 
 wards. As sh(^ came neai-er. she was foimd to l)e the Isafold 
 of the Xorwe.u'ian Whalinji ( 'ompany. She anchored and sent 
 a boat on slujre amid increasin,o; (\xcitement. "T had bep;un 
 to -us])f'ct the truth,'" says Xansen, "when, to my astonish- 
 nii'iit as well a^ joy, I recou'uized in tlu' first man who stepptnl 
 a>hore ( 'a]itain Jacobs(>n of the Jn:<nii. Our meeting was 
 almost frantic, l)ut tlu^ story was soon told. He had reached 
 I-;if.i<)rd, and. not findin<i; u< thei'e. liad thought of coming 
 on to Dyrafjord with the Jnsn,/. Pnit with the strong wind 
 blowing it would ha\-(^ taken liis heavily riggerl shi]) a whole 
 da\' t() make th(> voyaii'(\ and. as the Xorvv-cgiaii ( 'onipany's 
 maiiau'er nio>t kindly otfei'ed to send the Isnfnld to fetch us, 
 h(^- hail taken the op]:)ortunity of coming too. 
 
 ■■ j-'arewells were hastily said: willing ha.nds transferred 
 the bauuaii'''. which eonsi-ted. in addition to rh'- u.-ual Alpine 
 outfit, of ( 'anadian and Xorwegian .-uow-sIkx^s, instruments,
 
 404 THE GREAT WIIITE yOnTH 
 
 food, fuel, and sl('C])in<;- '^vdv, a load of 1a\'c1v(' hundred pounds 
 for lh(>ii' li\-(' s1(m1i;(\s; and a restive and unwilling ])ony bought 
 of Ilerr ( Irani, and the Ii<(ifuld .steamed out of the fiord and to 
 the noi'thw'ards.'' 
 
 Vor six \v(>eks the Jason nuid(> fruitl(\ss attempts to land 
 the impatient explorers on this barren eoast of (Ireenland, 
 \vhen,,Jul\' 17, ISSS, Xansen and his ])arty attempted by boat 
 to make ('ai)e Dan, from which they wvrv se])arated by an 
 ice str(>ani ten miles wide. 
 
 " \\ hen Ravna saw the ship for the last time," writes P)alt(), 
 the Lat)]). "he said to me : 'What fools w(> were to leave her 
 to die in this ])laee. There is no hope of life; the great sea 
 wiU b(> otu' graves ! ' " 
 
 Slee]Vmg U])on the fio(>s at night, dragging or rowing their 
 boats by day, the journey to the coast was ])erilous and dan- 
 gerous in the (^xtrem(\ After several days they found them- 
 sel\-es being carried south ujion the floe and "straight away 
 from shore, a,t a pace that rendered all resistance completely 
 futile." 
 
 '■July 20," says X;msen, "'T was roused by some violent 
 >;i()cks to the floe on which we were eiicam])e(l. and thought 
 till' motion of tlie sea nnist have inci'eased vei'y considerably. 
 When we get outside we disc()\-er that \\iv (ioe has split in 
 two not far fi'om tlu> tent. I'he Lai)ps. who had at once 
 made for the highest ])oints of our ])iece of ice, now shout 
 that t he\' can see t!ie open sea. . . . 
 
 •■'riic swell is growing heaviei' and lieax'ier. and the \\'at(>r 
 breaking o\'er our floe with e\'er-inci'easing I'oi'ce. I'he 
 blocks of ice and vlush. which come from llie grinding of the 
 l!oc> loget !iei- and ai'c 1 lii'own U]) I'ound the edges of ou!' piece, 
 do a good deal to break the \-iolence of the wa\'es. Th.o 
 wor-'t of it i> that we are being cari'ied seawards with ominous 
 rapii lity." 
 
 Takinii refuge upon a stronger and larger doe, the party
 
 PLAXS THE CBOSSIXG OF GREENLAND 40o 
 
 awaited the issii(> with courage and reHignation, though it 
 niu.st be confesscxl the poor Lapp,s were not in the Ije.st of 
 spirits. "They liad given up hope of hfe, and were making 
 ready for death." A night of fearful promise succeeded a 
 dixy of inmiinent perih Sverch'up took t\\v watch and paced 
 alone the sea-washed floe. Several times he had stood by 
 the tent door prepared to turn his comrades out. 
 
 '•()nce he actually undid one hood," says Xansen, "took 
 another turn to the boats, and then another look at the surf, 
 leaving the hood unfastened in case of accidents. A huge 
 crag of ice was swajdng in the sea close beside us, and threat- 
 ening (n'er}' moment to fall upon our floe. The sin-f was 
 washing us on all sides. . . . The other l)oat, in which Balto 
 ^\'as asleep, was waslied so heaA'ily that again and again Sver- 
 dru}) had to hold it in its place." 
 
 A second time he came to undo the tent hood, but just as 
 thinji's looked their worst, the floe changed her course and as 
 if directed 1)y an unseen hand, sailed toward land, and took 
 i'(^fug(^ in a good har]:)our. On July 29, the fates wer(> kind, and 
 tluy made a landing at Anoritok, ()2° 05' X., nearly two hun- 
 dred miles south of Cape Dan. Following the shore to the 
 north, they f(41 in with natives near Cape Bille. 
 
 The ice joiu-ney commenced from Xinivik 64° 4.5' X'^., 
 wliich was reachcxl August 10, after pursuing their journey up 
 stee]), irr(\gTflar slopes, covered with soft snow and ])eset with 
 dangerous crevasses ; they made only forty miles inland after 
 sev(^nteen days of most arduous travel, and reached an ele- 
 vation of six thousand feet. 
 
 ■"It was now late in tli(> year." writ(\s Xansen, "and the 
 autunni of the 'inland ice' was not likel}' to i:»rove a g(nitle 
 season, so the fact that it was considerably shorter crossing 
 to the head of one of th(^ fiords in the neiglil)Ourhood of 
 (iodthaab to Christianshaab was an argument tliat had its 
 weiglit. ... I consulted the map again and again, mad(^
 
 40G 
 
 rilE CHEAT WHITE XOUTII 
 
 the calculations to i)i\'.-('lf, and fjnall}' dctcnninccl upon the 
 (itjdlhaa!) route. . . . The })()int where 1 thou^i;ht of (i,-ettin^ 
 down Was that which we actually hit, and which lies at about 
 latitude (id' 10' X. . . . The re-t of the party hailed my 
 chiuiiic of i^lan with acclamation. They seemed to have 
 alread}' had more than enough of "inland ice.' were l()n,ii'in,<^ 
 h)r kindlier scenes, and gave their uncitialified approval to 
 the new route." 
 
 Sails had been rigged to thesl(-ils, and with the ten-ific winds 
 which swept the ice-ca]), advance was assisted by this means, 
 the men marching on skis. So fright ful were the storms that 
 rage(l ()\-er these desolate snow fields that at night it seeme(l 
 as if the t(-nt would !)(■ torn to shred-, and l)efore a start could 
 1k' made in the moi'uing, the sle<lge< had to be dug out of the 
 drifts and unloaded so that their i'imnei-> might Ik- scra])e(l 
 clean of >U(.iw and ice, "a ta>k \\iiii'h we f(.)und anything l)Ut 
 grateful in the t)iting Avind. . . . but the ci'uellest work of 
 the whole day Was gettinu the tml Uj) in the e\'ening, for we 
 had to begin Ijy lacing the flooi' and walls together: as this 
 had to be done witli the unj^rot eet( (1 hngers. we had to take 
 good eare not to get them st^riou-ly frozen." "()ne e\-ening 
 wh(n 1 wa- at work," >ays XauM'ti. ""I .-uddenly di,-eovered 
 that the finger- of I loth my hands were white u]) to the i)ahn-. 
 I felt them and t^)und the}' wei'c as hard and >en>eless as wood. 
 ]'>y rubbitm- and beating them. ho\\'e\'er. I .-oon set the blood 
 in eii'culal ion and bi-uimht their enldiir b;tek." 
 
 The I.;i])]).< -uffereij fi'om suo w-1 iji nd Me--, ami all wei'e 
 bui-ued by 1 he -nil'- rays. Thi> wa- !ai'L!.ely due to the want of 
 deii-it\- in the ail', and the reljcciion of the ray> from the le\'el 
 expan-e oi' -now. 
 
 ■'Aiioi;! 1(11 in ilie iiK-rniim' of .\ugu<l .'!!." A\-rile< Dietrieh- 
 son. "we -;;W land for the la-t time. W'e \\-ere upon the civ-t 
 of one of 1 hr 'ireat wa\-e-. or u'eni le undula' ions in the -urfaee. 
 and had our final ulinip-e of a little point of rock whieh ])ro-
 
 CAJtRIES OCT HIS I'y DEUTAKiyc H 407 
 
 tni(l('(l i'roni the snow. It lay, of course, far in tlic interior, 
 and for many days had b(H'n the only daj'k point, save our- 
 seh'es and the sledges, on which our ey(\s could rest." 
 
 At an tdtitude of nearly eight thousand feet, they toiled 
 on for days over the interminable desert of snow ; there was 
 no l)reak in the horizon, no objcHjt to rest the eye upon, and 
 a course was laid out by tlie dilio-ent use of the compass alone. 
 From the second w(H'k in Septemlx^r the party had been anx- 
 iously looking for tlie Ijeginning of the western slope. On 
 Se]item])er 19, Balto's joyful cry of ''Land ahead!" greeted 
 tlie ach'ancing sltMJge fleet. Th(> ice conditions had Ijecome 
 mor(> formidable in character, i\\v gradual descent treacherous 
 in the (wtrerne. 
 
 "It was a curious sight for nK> to see the t-\vo ^-essels coming 
 rushing along behind me,'' says Xansen, "with their scjuare 
 Mking-like sails showing dark against the white snow 
 fi(>lds and the big round disk of the moon Ijehind. Fastc^r and 
 faster I go flying on, while the ice gets more and moi-e difh- 
 cult. Tiierc- is wors(> still ahead, I can see, and in another 
 moment I am into it. Tlie ground is here seamed with cre- 
 vasses, ])ut tlK'v are full of snow and not dangerous. Every 
 now and then I feel my staff go through into s])ace, but the 
 cracks are narrow and the sledges glide easily over. Presently 
 I cross a broader one, and see just m front of me a liuge black 
 abyss. I creej) cautiously to its edge on the slippery ice, 
 which here is covered by scarcely ;iny snow, and loolc down 
 into the deej:), dai'k chasm. Eeyond it I can see crevasse after 
 crevass(\ running ])arallel witli one another, and showing 
 dark blu(^ in the moonliglit. I now tell tlu^ others to stop, 
 as tliis is no ground to traverse^ in the dark, and we must halt 
 for llie night.'' 
 
 Th(^ joy of h;;ving crossed the ice-ca]) and the j^rospect of 
 successfully ]^as-inu- the inland ice to the more cong(>nial soil 
 of the western coast caused the little liand to meet cheerfullv
 
 408 THE a I! EAT WHITE yoinif 
 
 the most arduous labour in a ])orilous (h^sccMit over crevasses 
 and ,u;laci('i-, mountain, and valley into the ])romised land, of 
 which old Ravna spoke with enthusiasm : — 
 
 '■ I like the west coast well ; it is a <2,X)od })lace for an old La])p 
 to li\-e in ; th(M-(> are i)lenty of reindeer ; it is just like the 
 mountains of Fimnarken." 
 
 Ilavinj;- reaeluMl the coast, it became essential to reaeli 
 ei\ili/alion as w(>ll, and to ex})edite the journey it was found 
 desirable to jz;o by sea. The lack of a boat was a small con- 
 sidei-ation to men who had boldly sailed sknl^es across tlu^ 
 (ircH'iiland ice-ca]) — for thou<>;h wood, tools, and materials 
 wei'e lackin<>;, there was the t(>nt and j^lenty of willow bushes 
 around, some six or sc^ven fcH't in heiji'ht. "Ribs made of 
 these would not be as straight as w(^ could wish," says Xansen, 
 ''and would not stretch the canvas very evenly, but the main 
 thina; was to i;;et her to carry us. . . . By th(> e\'(>nin(i' the 
 boat was finished. She was no boat for a pv'r/.e com])etition, 
 indeed in shape she was more like a tortoise-shell than 
 anythin.*;' else." 
 
 In this crazy little craft Nansen and Sverdrup rowed away 
 to <;-et I'elief fi'om the inhabitants of (Jodtliaab. Tlunr com- 
 ])anioiis j'emained in Ameralikfjord, in charji'e of the sled,<i;es 
 and ('(luiiMuent. (ireat was the rejoicinji in (iodthaab wjuni 
 tlic exploi'ers reached there and immediate i)i-ei)arations wei"e 
 made to succour th(> remainder of the i)arty. l'lies(> had 
 slowly m()\"(>d in the direction of (lodthaab and _ti'ratefully 
 welcomed the Ivskimos who met tliem with sui)])lies. 
 
 rufortunately tlu^ ])arty missed the last l\urop(>an vessel 
 that left ]'n)rt that season and were obi iiicd to s])end the\vint(M' 
 in (li-eenland. l.('tt(M-s and (lesi)atches, howe\-er. had b(MMl 
 can'ird by the l''skinios down tlu^ coast to the Fn.r, M"('lin- 
 tock'-^ old \-csscl, in his famous searcli for Sir .lolin I'Van.klin, 
 and ttii> xctcran littl(> craft carrieil the thrillin.u' news of the 
 " I'ii'st cro^-inti' of ( Irecnland "" to 10urop(\ 'Jdic wintci' passed,
 
 CARRIES OUT HIS I'XBERTAKLXGS 409 
 
 and on April 15 "the settlement rang with the single shriek 
 — 'The ship, the ship.' — Joyfully the brave band of explorers 
 received news from home, and almost sorrowfully prepared 
 to leave their hospitable friends of Godthaab." 
 
 On May 21, 1889, Xansen and his companions made their 
 triumphant entry into Copenhagen — and, concludes Xansen, 
 "^lay 30 we entered Christiania Fjord, and were received 
 by hundreds of sailing boats and a whole fleet of steamers. 
 . . . When we got near the liarbour, and saw the ramparts 
 of the old fortress and the quays on all sides black with peo[)le, 
 Dietrichson said to Ravna : 'Are not all these people a 
 fine sight, Ravna?' 'Yes, it is fine, very fine ; — but if they 
 had only l)een reindeer !' was Ravna's answer." 
 
 Previous to his famous journey across Greenland, in one 
 of his many conferences with Dr. H. Rink, that veteran ex- 
 plorer of Greenland, Xansen was addressed by Airs. Rink, 
 who said to him : "You must go to the Xorth Pole, too, some 
 day," and without hesitation he answered her emphatically, 
 as though his mind had long ago been made up on that point, 
 "I mean to." 
 
 From his twenty-third year, Xansen had bent his mind and 
 energies upon that great journey into the Polar regions, upon 
 which he did not embark, however, until nine years later. 
 
 In the meantime, he was appointed curator in the IMuseum 
 of Comparative Anatomy at the Christiania University. 
 
 In tlie Danish Geographical Journal for 1885, ]Mr. Lytzen, 
 Colonial Alanager at Julianshaab, gave an interesting account 
 of c(>rtain relics of the ill-fated Jeannetle expedition picked 
 u]) i)y E>kimos on the west Greenland coast. Among these 
 articles was a list of provisions, signed by Captain De Long, 
 a manuscri])t list of the Jeannetle ■< boats, a pair of oil-skin 
 breech(\s markeil "Louis Xoros," the name of a meml)er of 
 th(> Jeatineffe'x crew, the peak of a cap with F. C. Lindemann, 
 or Xindemann, written on it.
 
 410 
 
 THE (;ni:AT white yoirni 
 
 It \\'a> plain to Dr. Xaii.-cii t!iat these articles had (lrifte(l 
 no le>s than twenty-nine hundred miles and in a perioil of 
 eleven hiuidred days, nijr could he e.-cape the conviction that 
 a current ])a.-ses acro>s or very near the Pole into the sea l)e- 
 tween Greenland and Spit/1 ler.tieu. r])on thi< h\']iothesi.s 
 Dr. Xansen ur^u'ed his plan to take a well-pro\-isi(jned ship, 
 ■"huilt on such i)i'inci])les as to enable it to withstand the 
 ])ressure of ice — for on this -anie diift-ice, and by the 
 same rotite, it inust \)V no less p(j-sil)le t(j trans])(jrt an exi)e- 
 dition."' 
 
 In spite of the madness of his -cheme. its condemnation by 
 many of the most eminent Ai-ctic authorities of l]uro])(^ and 
 America, the XorwcKian ^■o\'ermnent extended its patrona,L!;e, 
 and the ■■ Storthin,i;: " ,<i.'rante(l eie\-en tliou^aiid two hundred and 
 hfty ])ounds toward the exi)en>es of the ex])edit i(jn, the re- 
 main<ler !>eini!; collecteii by private >ub-cription. 
 
 The Frcin, eiu'ht ]i;mdi'('d tons displacement, was liuilt 
 with e>pecial attention to the con-trui-iion of the >ha])e of 
 the hull, so as to (Aivv the .ui'eatest ])o.->ib)le resistance to the 
 altack> of the ice. She carru-d reijui.-ite i)i'(i\-i.-i()iis for diotis 
 and men for five yeiirs, and coal for four months' steaming 
 at full spee.l. 
 
 d'he na\-i,<i,'atioi) oi tlie Fmrn was ,Li'i\'en to ("aijtain Otto 
 S\'erdi'Up : Lieutenant Siaur<l Scott-IIan-en. of the Xo.r- 
 weL:ia.n na\'y. wa> tendei'ed the maiiauejuent of the mete- 
 orolnti-ical. a-t i'()nomic:il, and m;umeiic obsci-\-ai lou-. Dr. 
 Henrik P)l''ssin'i. pliy-icjau and boiani-t . Chief l-^nuin('('i' .ViUoii 
 .\mund-eii, I.ii-ui ciiaiil in the Ive.-er\"e. l-"r(-d<'rick .!< ihau !ie-en , 
 who-e ('a^'iTiir-- to aei'ompany the e.\])edil ion h-d him to 
 accc])t the pii-ilioti of -toker, and >e\'en other-, made up the 
 
 Jirr-! lUIM'l ( if the ('Xp.edii i( .11. 
 
 '\'\\f l-'ri!i!i lefi \i)!-wa\' ill .bme, l'^'.t^'), -kii'trd the north 
 ri la-t - t if I'Ju'i ipe ani I A-i;i. and pi U iiili > t ■'.• • I'dlar pack ic(' ueal' 
 tiie \('W Siberia Idaii'l. S( . )t i 'i nber 2J. IMt-k
 
 V<)VA<rE ON THE "FIIAM" 411 
 
 Frozen fast in tiu; ice three days later, tlu^ Frdin stood off 
 northwest of ^^auaikof Land in 78^ oO' X., 1)34° E. It now 
 l)ehooved the company to shij) rudder, ch'an the boilers, and 
 I)re])are idr winter. Xo idle nujnients could be s])ared, rigging 
 nnist be cared for, sails inspectt'd, ]irovisions of all kinds got 
 out from the cases down in the hold, and handed over to tlie 
 cook, and the smithy called u})on for his offices in re])airing 
 bear tra])s, hooks, kniv(>s, etc. 
 
 A busy life is a hap])y one, and the Fraiti-s com]:)am' lived in 
 harnuniious go(>d-f(-lI(jwshi]3 and drifted leisureh' with the 
 great ice-pack, just as X'ansen had ])i'edicted they would, witli 
 only occasional visits from bears to break the monotony of 
 coinjilete istilation. 
 
 In Decemb(M', X*ans(>n. who had road Dr. Kane's fearful 
 experiences in the Arctic night, with insufficient food for dogs 
 and men, suffering from the ravages of scurvy, compares liis 
 own condition in the comfortable warm ([uarters on Ijoai'd the 
 Fran). X'o iigeing or (le])ressing effects had Ixh'u felt by any 
 member of his ])ai1\'. The ([uiet, regular hd'e sec^ned to agree 
 with tlunn, and with good h)od, in ])rofusion and \'ai'ie1y, a 
 warm shelter, pl(,'nty (jf ex(>rci>e in tlie o])en air, and cheerful 
 diversions in the sha))e of instruct! v(^ bo(jks and amusing 
 games, the nien ke]^t up a cheerful balance of good health 
 and spirits. X'evertheless, the ]nitience of all on Ixjard was 
 >()rely iried before the cruise was over. 
 
 The di'ift of the shi]) during the ihii'ty-five months of her 
 l)e<etnient, was imeven and iri'egular : lier zigzag coui'se as 
 she receded or ai)proache(l her goal, encouraged or dis- 
 hearten.ed her entlnisiast ic cr('W. She met bravely and with- 
 stood in a remarlcable manner tfireatened disaster from the 
 !(•(' pressures. AMld (>nthusiasni greeted tlie slightest advanc(\, 
 such as was found February lO, \S[)\. when the observations 
 slujwed SO' 1' north latitude, a i'ew miiuitc^ north of tlie 
 obser\'ati()ns taken tlie week befoi'e. And a coi'i'c^jjonding
 
 412 IIIE CHEAT WHITE SORT II 
 
 depression is ii()1ic(Ml wluii coDtriiry winds retard or actually 
 force the Frit in to retrace her hard-earned i)ro<i,res.s. 
 
 It is not surpi'isinf; that Xansen'.s adventurous sjjii'it <i,i"e\v 
 restive under the enforced inactivit}' of the Fr(iiii\s uncertain 
 tlrift. Early in the year 1894 one finds his mind working 
 U])on d(>e]>laid i)lans to force the issu(> with the enemy, and 
 e\'entually he announced his intentions of attem])tin<2; one 
 of the most darin<2; and hazardous sled<!,-e journeys in the annals 
 of Arctic adventure. Mis i)lan was to leave the shi]) with one 
 ('oin])ani()n, advance^ ov(M' the frozen ])olar ocean, as far as 
 ])ossil)le, and without making an effort to rejoin tlu^ ship, 
 retreat by way of Franz Josef Land and Spitzbergen, back to 
 Norway. Februai'y 2(), 1S9"), he oflicially inlormed tlu* crew 
 that after his (leptu'tur(>, ('a])tain Sx'crdrup was to be chief 
 oflicei' of the (expedition, with kieutenant Scott-IIansen sec- 
 ond in conunand. 
 
 On the k-lth of March, 1895, the Fmtn stood in 84° 04' X., 
 102° E., and amid a ]:)arting salute with flag, ixninant, and guns, 
 Xansen's third and final sledge dash to tlie nortli was taken. 
 Johannes(Mi, who had been chosen as his companion for this 
 arduous undertaking, was in all res])ects (pialified for the 
 worlv — an acco]n])lished snow-shoer eijualled by few ''in 
 his ])owers of endurance, — a fine fellow ph\'>icall\' and 
 mentall\'." 
 
 ('){]' they went, accom])anied for a shoii distance by several 
 of the ci'ew. ddu'ee sle<lges drawn by twenty-eight dogs wei'c^ 
 loaded with two kayaks, an<l ))i'o\'isi()n< for one hundi'cd da\'s 
 foi' t he men and lift \' days' dog-food. Xanseti aiKklohannesen, 
 fully conlident that fifty da\'s would see them at the J'ole, 
 ])lunged into the unknown ;ind met l)ra\'ely the ])itil(>s foe. 
 Hummocks and i'idge<, lanes and slush, cold and exh.aust ion, 
 ttn'se wcvi' (li(> impedinuMits to pi'ogress. 
 
 it wa> Xan<cn"< I'ule to march nine or ten hours, liroken 
 1)\- a midday halt foi' a lit I le i'e<t and a bit to eat . 44ie<e stops
 
 ^AXSEX AXI) JOIIANXESEN START FOR POLE 413 
 
 were a bitten- trial to the men exposed to the m(>rciless winds 
 witiiout fir(> or shelter, to l)c followed by the uncomfortable 
 task of disentangling the dogs' traces, bc^fore they were able 
 to take up the march again. (3n March 29, they were "grind- 
 ing on, but vm-y slowly ''; the dogs were showing signs of weak- 
 ening — there was endless disentangling of the hauling ropes. 
 
 On April 3 they were making their (l(\-<p(n-ate way over 
 ridges and lances which had frozen together with rul)ble on 
 either side. It was impossil)le to use snow-shoes, there b(nng 
 too little snow l)(>tween the hummocks. Thick wivither, with 
 diH'eptive mists making all things white, added to their mis- 
 (>ri(^s ; irrt^gularities and holes and the spaces betw(Hm, so that 
 the men and dogs stumbh^l l)lindly on, crashing into pitfalls 
 and cracks and running the grav(> risk of broken bones. 
 
 On A])ril tlie ice grew worse and wors(>; after an advance 
 of only four miles Xansen and Johannesen were in despair. 
 
 The following day, the limit of patience was reached — 
 a world's record made — Xansen found himself in 86° 13. G' X., 
 abt)ut 9")^ east longitude : a distance of one hundred and 
 twenty-oni^ geographical miles from th(> Frcun, with two 
 hundred and thirty-five miles betw(Hni himself and the Pole. 
 Tw(mty-thre(M:lays had pass(Ml; Xanscmand Johannescni tui'ued 
 their backs upon a veritabh^ chaos of ice-l)locks, stretching 
 a-; far as the horizon, and i)repar(Hl for tlunr retreat to Oape 
 rhgely. 
 
 On tins remarkable jotirney southward, confidently expected 
 by Xans(Mi to extinid over not more than three months, btit 
 \\-liich in reality lengthencMl to oUi^ hundriMl and fifty-thr(H> 
 da\'s, the- coiu'age and al)ility of thes(^ men was t(>sted to the 
 tit most. I-'rightftil gales, which disrupt(Ml tlu^ ]iack, tmd thick 
 fogs, whicli mad(^ advance almo.-t im]:i()ssibl(\ added to their 
 discomfort^ and ])ri\'ations. Tlie dogs I'educed in strcMigth 
 from exhau-^tion and lack of food, died oiu^ by one or wer(> 
 killed and fed to the survivors. Tlu^ work of hauliuii- iKH'amo
 
 414 THE Gin: AT WHITE yOUTIF 
 
 hoavicr and li("a\"icr, as their nunilxT.- (liininishcd. Tho 
 iiKai had the iiii.-foi'tuiic lo ahow their ^\'atf■l^es to run down, 
 there!)}' nialvin,u; tlieir loiiuitiide ohservations uncertain, the 
 I'e.-ult of which war^ tliat they tra\'elle(l t'ar otit of their c(jiir.-e 
 in searcli (jf th(> land, whicli per.-i>tent!y remained hidd(>n. 
 
 Karl}' in June it Ix'canie necessai'}' to curtail tlie rations, 
 and althou.uh they steadfastly kept t(.) weiji'hts, in order tliat 
 their reniaininu' ]ii'ovisions W(_)uld la-t, they were recluced, 
 June IS, to a fruii'al su])])er of two ounees aleuronic bread and 
 one ounee butter ])er man — and ci'ei)t into their sleepin<i,- 
 ba,u> hunu'r}' and exhausted. 
 
 The ca])ture of a seal reHe\'ed a situation that threatened 
 to become very serious. At last, on July 2b the tired eyes of 
 the travellers rested u])on something risin,t£ above the never- 
 ending white line of th(> horizon, and the ,io}'ful cr}' AVas raided 
 of "Land I Land!" Pro,ii'ress U) the ha])])}' huntin.ti-grouirl 
 wa> exa-]")eratin,<iJ}' -low and not without its startlin,<i ad- 
 ventures. Johannoen was attacked b\- a ben.r. and without 
 the ]")rom])t aetion on the ])art of Xan-en would doubtle.-s 
 have ])i'oved it-- \'ictini. 
 
 ()])en w;itei' wa- reached Aiiiru>t b. 1^0."). and. b}- dint of 
 l)addlin^- and haulin.o; uj) on the floe- to ada'ance b}- sledu'e. 
 on Au!i'u-t U) they stood on t he di'}' land of tL)Uen I-land. 
 ( 'out iiiuinti; on thdr journey the}' --oon I'fali/ed that the 
 r,'ii)iil ai)j)roaeh of winter would make the cifort to I'l-ach 
 .■^|)irzl)i'rueu im])o<-il)le. >o tliey encamjied on onf- of the out- 
 l}'inL£ i-larnb off I-'ranz ■L).-ef Land ami, buildinu' theni>e!\'es 
 a -loni' hut co\-ei-e'l with walru< hide-. t)rf])ar<'d to -])end the 
 winter. P)car- and walru- \\'ere ])lcnliful and -ut)])lie4l them 
 with abundant fooil : other same wa- oeea-ional!}' .-hot. 
 Till' cold, Arctic niuht found tliem. on th' wliole. riuite com- 
 fortalilc in their liut. The train-oil l;im])- kc|)t the tem]")e!'a- 
 turc ill liic miijillc of the room al'o^it freeziuL!,'. I'^oi' nine 
 Uioiith- Xan-eii and .lnhaiinc-i n hiln mated tliu-, v.'ith no
 
 LIFFICl'LTIES OF TRAVEL 41') 
 
 variation to their cxistenco but th(^ taking of tho most neces- 
 sary nieteorolo^ii'ical ol)servations. 
 
 Willi the return oi' si:)i'ing tlu^ two "wild men" made every 
 pr(>])aration lor their journey to Si)itzb(U'<;-en. This was no 
 (•as\- matter, considering' they lacked everything, and the few 
 reserve stor(s of flour and chocolate had mildewed and 
 sjjoiled durin<;- the winter. On 2^Iay 19, 1890, the sledges 
 stood loaded and lashed and after leaving inside th(^ hut a 
 short re])ort of their journey and adventures, Xansen and 
 Johaniu sen started for SpitzlxM'gen. Though the winter had 
 been long and monotonous, advent ur(> gr(>ete(l them fre- 
 (luently in their a<lvance. Xans(>n n(^arly lost his life liy 
 I'alling into a wat(M--hole. They were delayed by a gal(\ during 
 which they lunirly lost their kayaks. Seeing these frail crafts, 
 ^A'ith all they possessed on l)oar(l, 'drifting rapidly away from 
 tlieir moorings, Xansen s])rang into the icy water and made a 
 desperate attempt at i-(>scue. Meanwhile. Johami(\sen ])aced 
 re>tl(\<sly up and down the ice in an agony of sus]:)(Mise. With 
 strokes growing more and nioi'c feeble, the swimmer rt^alized 
 the des])erate -situation an<h ])utting i'oi'th his last benumbed 
 energies in a final >ti'ok(\, gras])(Hl a snow-shoe which lay across 
 tlie (avl. All but frozen, Xansen had great difficulty in get- 
 tins:' into the k;iyak and still moi'e trouble in ])addling to land. 
 Xunib and shivering, the wind l)iiing his v(My marrow, ho 
 \'et had c()urag(> to fire at two auks wliich he secau'ed Uyr a 
 w:irm and welcome* su])])er. 
 
 In the m(>antime, theii' nu^at was ne;i,rl}' g'on(\ The outlook 
 was anything l)Ut jii'omising. In these frail, weather-worn, 
 c.'in\'a--co\'('r('d ka>'aks. twelve feet long, about Two and one 
 half feet wi;le aPid hai'dly moi'e tiian one and one fourth feet 
 dee]), tliei'e was yet a journey of two hundred miles of ocean, 
 more or Ic-^ encumbered by ice. ^vhi(•h iiUei'vened between 
 tliemand S])il zlxM'gm. where theii' only ho])e lay in lieiitg 
 taken aboard oiu' of the small \'e>sels, wliich \-i<it \\\v<c shores
 
 410 THE nil EAT WIUTE A'0/,'77/ 
 
 (>v('ry suniinor. The future for Xanscu aiul Joluiniu'son was in- 
 deed des])erate, but a ha])])y chance hroujiht tlieni timely de- 
 liverance, and the dramatic niec-tin^' with Fi-ederick (I.Jackson, 
 .June 17, 1800, in the isolated re<:ions of i-'ranz Josef Land 
 terminated one of the most brilliant retreats in Arctic hist(jry. 
 
 -Mr. Jackson and his com])anions. \vlio f(^r two years had 
 been makinii; most valuable scicntiiic ob>ervation< and 
 collcctin.ii- s])ecimens in all dei)artment.- of natural science 
 which the islands and surroundin,us seas afforded, welcomed 
 the \vander(-rs with o]ien arms, broujiht them to the liouse, 
 fed, and wa.rmed them, and, Itest of all, ,uave them uews from 
 home and letters. It was not sur])i'i>in,<i' that the first ni.uht 
 was s])ent in readin<i; home letters, which Jackson liad faith- 
 full}' carried for them into these de>olate re<j,i(ins, and in talk- 
 in^ii' over the stran_ti(' adventures now so ha])])il}' ended. Vor 
 at last their wcjrk was done, and, as Xansen said, ''he didn't 
 want t(j ^leep, he felt so ha])])y." 
 
 So the days ]")ass(Ml rai)idly until the Wniihi-nrrl came, 
 whicli broutiht yearly su])])lie> to .lacjv-on and carried liome 
 the ad\'entur(jus ex])lorei-s. ddiey readied ^ ardo ITavfii, 
 .\u<i,'U>t b'-J. .\11 that was nee<led to com])lete the ha])])iric-s 
 of the home-cominu' wa- news of the Frmn. and this was not 
 loim- withheld. On Auu'ust 20, bsOt;, the joyful tidinu> of the 
 ari'ival of tfie Frnm reach<'d Xan-fii in a brief tel(\<i,ram sent 
 fi'om ."^kyaer\'o, Ki'ai'iianuvm l"ioi'(l. 
 
 .^Iie h;ul pui'-ueil her monotonous drift to hei- hiuhest ])oint 
 to the we>t -north w(--t. S.")^ 'u' X.. <)(|- \].. chanuini;.' to a south- 
 southea-t directioii, to SI" ()'.)' X.. bV 1^.. where she r('main(Mi 
 nearl\' -tatioiiar\' from I'Vbi-iiai'\' until ,bme. ISOli. ddie 
 open -ummer pcniiilleil ('a])t;,iii S\-ci'drup to ])U-h throuuii 
 licr ice barrier, and. by the juiliciou- u>c of e.\i)lo>i\-e>. bla<t 
 hi-r \va\' to the o])cn water. .\u<i-u-l bb IMtO. north of .^i)itz- 
 beriicn.
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Journeys of Dr. A. Bunge and Buron E. von Toll. — ]-]xi)lorati(jn in 
 Spitzbergen. — Sir ]\lurtin Conway. — Dr. A. G. Xathorst. — 
 Profc.->.sor J. II. Core. — Andree'.s l)alloon expedition to the Xorth 
 Pole. — Search for Andree by Theodor Lerner. — J. Stadiing, 
 Dr. A. (i. Xatlior.-st. — Captain Bade. — A\'alter WeHnian'.s plan 
 to reach the Pole from Spitzbergen. — Italian expedition under 
 Duke of Abruzzi. — Lo.ss of the Stella Pvlare. — Captain Uniberto 
 Cagni's journey. — Breaks the record. — Retreat. — Home. - - 
 Baldwin-Ziegler exi)edition of 19UU. — Complete equipment. — 
 Return of expedition in autumn. — Ziegler expedition under 
 Anthony I'iala. — The America r(>ach(\s high northing. — Winters 
 in Tri])litz Bay. — Is destroyed. — b'ailure of .-^ledge jounuys. — 
 Relief ship doe:, not come. — Second winter. — Return of l)art\' 
 l)y Terra Xuva in 1!)()3. 
 
 The voyage of the Jcannettc, among otlier valuable scien- 
 tific results, had ])rove(l Wrangell Land to be an island of 
 ntoderate size. Tlie drift of the Freuii had (U^nionstrated 
 the the(jry of a i)olar ocean of vast dimensions and great (le])tli. 
 Tlie interest, ih(n'ef(H'e, in Arctic ox])loration for the ne.xt few 
 ycai's was centred in numerous sci(nitific jxirties which thor- 
 ouuhly examincil, siu'vcyed, and ex])ior(Ml the tmknown sec- 
 tions (.)f land- bordering on the Polar Basin. 
 
 As ear!\- as ISS."), an expcMlition was fitted out under the 
 atis]Me('s of the Iin])erial Russian ( !eogra])hical Society, and 
 ]:)lace(l in ehai'gc of Dr. .\. Pnuige and l^aron K. vr)ii Toll for 
 scientific and geogra])hical woi']< in the Siberian Island. ToU 
 \'isited Xo\-a Sibiir and trav(>rsed the entii'c coast of Kotelnoi; 
 in tlie meant inie. I)i'. P)Unge exploi'cd ( ireat Liachof, where 
 he seeure(l a \'ahiable collection of fossils. 
 -' i; 417
 
 41.^ TIIK a HEAT WIiriE XORTII 
 
 Toll rcturncMl atiaiii to tlu' Arctic in ISO;^, visitin<;' tlu^ north- 
 cast of Jana, for the ])ur])()sc of securing; a \vcll-])rcscrvc(l 
 manunoth. Afterward, in conipanx' with Lieutenant Schil- 
 eiko, he aj2,ain N'isited tlu^ Xew Siberian Island, and with doa;- 
 .sl(Ml<2;es travelled on the west coast of Kotclnoi, as far as 7.")^ I-J?' 
 n(.)rth latitude, establishin.ti' two depots of provisions for 
 Xansen's ])ossil)le us(\ Ani(jn<2; other iin])ortant results of 
 this ex])edition was the discovery of evidence^ that in the 
 maninioth ])eriods trees <>;rew no less than 3° north of their 
 ]iresent limit. Toll i-eturned to tlu^ mainland and followed 
 the Lena, reportin*;' im])assal)le tundras from S\iatoi Xos to 
 Dudinka, — and nnu'hcd Yenisei>k the 4th of Din-ember. 
 Later ^■eolo,i!,ical J'csearches wc^'e made on (4i'(nit Liachof Islarid. 
 
 Ixii'on 1^)11 determined u])on another voya^'c to the Arctic 
 for the ])ur])()se of su])])lenientin';' the ,ti'eolo,<iical knowled.tiX' of 
 ]^)ennett and other islands and to com])lete a journey of ex])lor- 
 ation to Sannikof Land, first >oou by him in 1S8<). 
 
 44ic Sari/n was fitted out for this ex])edition. and the winter 
 of I'M) 1'.){)I was ])assed in K^ 08' north latitude. 9.^ east 
 lonL!,itud(\ 
 
 "()n Ajiril LS, DOL'Avi'ites P)ar()n I'oll, "inunediately after 
 the I'^east of l']aster. Lieutenant KolomiezolT and th(> /o()lo- 
 lii-t, A. L)ii'ulja, set out with two >leiLi,lis each with a team of 
 eiulit doi!.<, the object of the first bcinti lo reach the ^'enisei 
 ami i'<tabli<h coaling' station-^, while the second was directed 
 to accompany it as far as ( 'a])e Sterleu'ol'. some 200 \versts dis- 
 tant. 4"wo days latei' beuan my exclusion with Lieut(Miant 
 Koh-chal; to the ( "helyuskin Peniu.^ula, accompanied t>\' a 
 -Iciiiti with a team of twel\'(^ doLi's and hulcn as liu-hll\' as 
 po--~il lie. 
 
 ■' < 'n Mny L we reached t hat ]ioint on l he bay where we had 
 e-tabli-hed ;i ilepot the previous yeal' iJ'.tOO'. 4'he pl'ox'i- 
 >ion-^ ami i\<\\ Imtc bui'ied wei'e to com])lete our sui)])lie-'. 
 which ! la rely -uhicei 1 foi' j\iM one moiit h. l)Ut we Were unable
 
 1)11. inWiiK AM) BARON VOX TOLL JOUUXLYS 411) 
 
 to (lit;- out tho deposit from the (loop snow. On May 7, we 
 started IVoni this i)laco in an oast -northeasterly direction, with 
 the intention of ])iishing on to St. Thaddeus Bay on the east 
 coast of the ( 'holyuskin Peninsula, and retin-ning thence aknig 
 th(> coast. After traversing the tinidra for fort}' worsts in 
 this direction, wo again came imcx])(>ctedly on an inlet, which 
 grew narrower- towards tho west-southwest, where it assumed 
 the form of a narrow sotmd or river mouth. 
 
 "The ]:)ositi()n as determined by Lieutenant Koltschak on tho 
 off side of the bay was 76" 17' X. and 99° 29' PI" 
 
 On !\lay 12, tlie tired dogs woi'o given a day's rest ; then 
 Toll made a day"s march, lialf a degree eastward, on Canadian 
 snj)\v-shoes. There were no ])rospects for adding t(j their 
 limittnl food supply by hunting, so it became necessary to 
 retrace tluur steps. 
 
 '■ Hitherto," writes Toll, "we had to contend with al;nost 
 constant difficulties caused by fog, and deep snow ;ili'ead\' 
 softened by the sun. But henceforth wo had to struggle with 
 contrary' snow-st(.)rms, which lasted almost witliout a Itroak 
 for fourteen days. The conso(iuonc(> was tlio loss of five dogs, 
 which broke down one aft(M' another throtigh exhaustion. 
 ( )n May oO, v/e r(^ach,od the Sanja, the excursion having lasted 
 forty-on(> days. Of those wo had to ]oass nine in the sloo])ing- 
 sack during tho hercest snow-storms; four were us(>lessly 
 wasted at t!ie (le])ot : and during the remaining twenty-eight 
 days we covei'od .")()() w(>rsts." 
 
 Other oxcui'sions Vv-oro made by members of the l)ai'ty, 
 with most gratif>'ing results. 
 
 The release of the Sarija was confident 1>' hoped for early in 
 August. "B)Ut in the interim," writes l^aron ToH, "thei'o 
 was still to b(> solved a geogra])hical cjuostion. nam('l\', to (Jis- 
 cover tho mout h of the Taim>-r Ri\-('r. Accordiim' to the maps 
 hitliiTto ])ub!ished, the Taimyi' was supposed to di.-charge in 
 the fir>t or second of the larger biuhts l\-iiig to the ea-t of tho
 
 4:20 TUK GREAT WHITE yOUTll 
 
 Taimyr Sound. Both of thcs(> were twice explored by Lieu- 
 tenant Kolonieizoff, andinthetirst was, in fact, found the mouth 
 of a considerable stream ; but its confijiuration was not at all in 
 accordance with the contour lines given b}- the to])ograph(^r 
 ^^'ag(>noff on MidcUuidorff's chart. In the second no indica- 
 tion could be detected of an}' river mouth. As thes(^ re- 
 searches had been undertaken in winter amid fogs and sn(jw- 
 drifts, there still remained a douljt, whicli could only l)e 
 removed by fresh investigations carriiMl otit in clear smnmer 
 wcvither. Should these also lead to negative results, the only 
 remaining assumption would b(> that the Taimyr discharg(>d 
 into that bight which dtu'ing otu" journey to the intei'ior of 
 the Chelyuskin P(>ninsula, Lieutenant Koltschak and I luul 
 cross(Ml, since no considerabl{> stream assuredly entered that 
 oth(M' inlet wlu^-e the depot lay.'" 
 
 The surv(^y of the fir-t two bays was undertaken by Birulja 
 and Dr. "Walter, tluMr excursion lasting from July 20 to August 
 L"), lOOL "Hespecting the ciuestion of the Taimyr, th(^ two 
 savants came to negative r(\-ults. Still they conhi-nuMl 
 K(.)lomeizo!t"s discovery of a large estuary in the first of the 
 two ba^'s." 
 
 On tlie 2oth of August, tlie fissures in th(^ ice liad (expanded ; 
 tlie whole of the ic(>-i)ack round tlie Sari/n was set in motion, 
 and -^he drifted in tlu' direction of tlie cliffy of Station Bland. 
 Slow!}' she was carri(>d through the I-'ram Strait to the ojien s(>a. 
 Withdrawing behind a cajx^ at Xansen Inland, tlie Sfiri/d 
 await<'(l the di'ifting away of the ice-pack. ( )n August 'M), 
 the wat('r-wa>' was free, and she began h(M' \'()\'age to Kolctnoi 
 I-laiul ; doubling Cajx' ( 'helyuskin on Se])t;'mb(>r \, -he 
 siLiiited, three days later, tiie east coast of the Taimyr Penin- 
 sula, without meet iusi' an\' ice. 
 
 "A- we drew iie;ii\"' writes Toll, "to the Xew Sibei'ian 
 .'irehipelaLin in f;i\-()i-ab!e weather till September 7th, a strong 
 souihea-ter began to Mow in our teeth, and auain-^t this we
 
 sill MARTI \ COX WAV -421 
 
 made very ^^low lietuhvay. I, therefore, changed the cours(^ 
 to the northc^ast. On Sc^pteniljer 9th wc reached the edge of 
 tlie ])ack-icc in 77° 9' X., and 14° E. Here we encountered 
 a soutliern gale, which, acting in concert with the marine 
 curi'ent, (h'ove the Sarija 30 miles to the northwest. The 
 storm veered round to the west-southwest, and I thought 
 it l)(>tter again to make the most of tlie wind and now direct our 
 course southeastwards for Bennett Island, instead of trying 
 \md(>r these circumstances to penetrate into the ice in search 
 of land. On Septc^nber lltli the imposing headland of Cape 
 Emma at Benru^tt Island suddenly loomed up b(^fore us out 
 of the fog, and presently became again wrapped in fog. 
 
 "We had approached to within 12 knots of the island, 
 when our further advance towards it was barred In' a belt 
 foui'teen feet thick of impenetrable ice. Here we remained 
 two days in the hope that the ice might shift, l)ut in vain !" 
 
 Disa])]:)()inte(l in his ho]:)es of reachmg Sannikof Land in 
 1902, Baron Toll succeeded in sheltering the Sarya for a 
 second winter at Xer])ichi Bay, Kotelnoi Island, 75° 22' X., 
 lo7° 16' E. The sad disaster which overtook the brave 
 scientists ends a chapter valual)le to Arctic achievement. 
 
 On June 7, 1902, Baron Toll, accompanied l;)y Seeberg, 
 the astronomer, and two hunters, left for a geological excursion, 
 and after arduous efforts landed on Bennett Island, August 3, 
 ^v]li(•ll w;is found to l)e a plateau som(,^ fifteen hundred feet in 
 heiglit. Tlu'ir researches disclosed Cambrian deposits. — 
 They k^ft the island to return to the ship on X^ovember 8, 1902, 
 and Aver(^ never seen again. Brunsnc^ff and Koltshak, in a relief 
 exp(^(lition in 1904, discovered a record containing the informa- 
 tion just statcnl, but no otlier traces were found of these coura- 
 geous men who sacrificcMl their lives in the cause of science. 
 
 Anoth(M' sc(^n(^ of activity was ('(mtrtnl in S])itzl)ergen, 
 for crossing wliiclt in 1S9G Sir Martin Conway and ])arty re- 
 ceiv(^d th(^ a])plause of the world. The following y(>ar he
 
 422 THE GREAT WHITE XORTII 
 
 a<j;aiii returned to continue his explorations. Dr. A. G. 
 Xahorst circunniaviiiated S])itzl)ergen in 1898, surveying- and 
 nia])pin,ii' the irre,<j;ular coast-line with admirable precision. 
 The same yc^ar, Professor J. H. Gore of the United States 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey made pendulum observations in 
 S])itzber,<i'en for tlie determination of the force of gravity in 
 that latitude. Prince Albert of Monaco and party cruised 
 along the coast for the ])urpose of making scientific observa- 
 tions. So active had been th(> inter(\>t in this hitherto im- 
 claimed archipelago that Russia began to assert her riglits to 
 ownersliip. 
 
 The most tmique venture for ])olar lionours was undertaken 
 in 1897 l)y Salamon August An<lree, a Swede, and two com- 
 ])anions, Mr. Strindberg and Air. Traenkel, from Dane 
 Island north of Si)itzbergen. Andree was an ardent apostle 
 of aerial con(}U(\-t of the North Pole. His l)alloon, the 
 0/-//C7/, had a cubical contents of forty-fi\'e hundred metres, 
 and the shajx' (jf a s])her(> ternnnating in a slightly conical 
 a])])endage. Tlu^ envelope was made of six liundred ])ieces of 
 ])oiigee silk, each Ijeing from seventeen Xo eightet'ii metres 
 long by al)out forty-eight cenlimelres wide; these ^\'er(^ 
 sewn together by machine, then subjected to a ])roces< of 
 "cementing"" \\\i\\ a sj^ecial \'arni,-h. A carefully niaile net 
 c()mi)o<ed (if hemp cords encom])asse(l the envel()])e. S])ecial 
 \'al\'f- wei'e (le\-i>('d by Andi'ce. The cai' was of cane basket- 
 work. m()Uiite(l on a frame of chestmit wood, the bottom being 
 -t reiiiit heneil l)y wooden cross-beams, the whole c(jvered with 
 tar])aulin, with riecessai'}' o])enings. 
 
 l'ro\"i-ioned w\\\\ tins (ji' ])t'e-e!'\'ed food. — cliocolafe, com- 
 jirc-.-ed bi'ead, condensed milk. cham])agn('. claret, butter, 
 fre-h ^\';^ler. and alcohol, besides a cooking a])i)aratus. and 
 olh('i' nec('->ary e(jui])nient . — this frail craft made its ascen- 
 .-ion with il- liiHniiii fi'eiu'ht. .bil\' 11. ls*.>7. 
 
 "Tii(' la-t farewells are lirief and touchinu','" writes Alexis
 
 A.XDUEE'S balloon EXPELrnON TO THE POLE 428 
 
 Macliuron. *'Fo\v words are exchanged, but hearty hand- 
 (•his])s betwec^n those whose liearts are in sympathy say more 
 than words. Suddenly Anch'ee snatches himself away from 
 the embraces of liis friends and takes his place on the wicker 
 bi-idu'e of the car, from whence he calls in a firm voice : — 
 
 ""Strindberg . . . Franaenkel . . . Let us <2;o!' 
 
 "His two companions at once take their places beside him. 
 Each is armed with a knife for cutting the ropes supporting the 
 grou])s of ballast bags. . . . Andree is always calm, cold, 
 and impassable ; not a trace of emotion is visible, noth- 
 ing but an expression of firm resolution and an indomitabk? 
 will. He is just the man for such an enterprise, and he is 
 well seconded by his two companions. At length the d(>cisiv(^ 
 moment arrives : 'One! Two! Cut!' cries Andree in Swedish. 
 Tlie three sailors obey the order sinuiltaneously. and in one 
 s(^cond tlu^ aerial shij), free and unfettered, rises majestically 
 into s])ace, saluted by our heartiest cheers. . . . Scattered 
 along the shore, we stand motionless, with full liearts and anx- 
 ious eyes, gazing at th(> silent liorizon. For some moments, 
 then, between two hills v/(^ ])erceive a gray s])eck over the sea, 
 very. v(M'y, far away, and tluni it finally disap])ears. 
 
 "The way to the Pole is clear, no more obstacles to en- 
 coun.ter — the sea, the ice-fields, and tlie Unknown !" 
 
 ' )ut of the ( Ireat White North came a l(jne survivor, a cai'rier- 
 ))igeon, bringing the tidings writt(Mi "July l^-Jth, 12:30 p.m., 
 82^ 2' north latitude, 15^ o' east longitude. (Jood journey 
 fastward, 10'' south. .\11 goes well on board. Tliis is the 
 fourth message sent by pigeon. 
 
 " AxDRf:!-]." 
 
 Ah i but ;dl did not go well. In .tune. bSO!», a buoy contain- 
 ing a n(»t<^ from Andree was found in Xoi'way ; it had Ihm'ii 
 thrown out eiulit h.ours after dej)artur(\ 
 
 Tlie ■■ North Pole buoy"" to be dropped when the Pole was
 
 4:24 Tin: a heat white sortii 
 
 passed, was found ( mptij in Sci^tcnibcr, ISO!), on the north side 
 of Kin^j; ( 'liarles I.-land. A third l)Uoy, also empty, was ]>icked 
 U]) on the west coast of Icehmd, July 17, 11)00, and another 
 reporleil from Norway, Aujj;ust ol, 1000, eontaineil a note 
 statin.ii that the huoy was thrown out at 10 f.M., July 11, 1S97, 
 at an altitude of eii2;ht hinidred and twenty feet, m(n'in<i' north 
 45 E. Thus the earrier-{)i,<i;eon was the last messen,u'er — the 
 harl)in<i:er of Andree's last word to friends on earth : the fate 
 of the three brave spirits lies buried in the Arctic silence. 
 
 Theodor Lerner was (jne of the first to hurry to S])itzl)er,o;en 
 in 1898 leadin.<2; the (iermaji scientific ex])edition, to obtain 
 news from Andrc'n-, if ])os>ible, and the same year the Swetlish 
 Anlhroi)oloiiical and (leo^si'raphical Society sent J. Stadlin,<i;, 
 with com])anions, to the Lena delta, the mouth of tlie Yenisei 
 and the islands of Xew Siberia, wher(> they searched in vain 
 for traces of their missini!,- comj)atriot>. Au'ain, in 1800, 
 Dr. A. (b Xathorst tiumed his attention to ea>tern (Ireenland 
 in an imsuccessful searcli h)r tidiii<is of Andree. makintivalu- 
 al)le ma]i-< and observations of the iiord system of Kinu; 
 ( )scar Fiord. Xor did (';i])tain Hadf in his ex])lorat ions in 
 East S])itzb(>r,u'en. Kim;- ( 'harles Land, and I'"ranz Josef Land 
 in 1000 find any traces of the nH--inu' ai'i'onaut. 
 
 In the }'ear 1801 A\'alter ^^'ellman. an American, made 
 S])itzberii'('n the ba-c of his acti\-itic> in an al1cmi)t to pene- 
 ti-at<' the Polar i)ack and reach the Xortli !'> le. Sailiiui' in 
 the liaijiirdlil Jarl, \iv had lh(> mi-fortune to lo-e hi^ ship 
 off W'alden Island: imdauntcd by this u'l'ax'e di<a<tcr, he 
 pu<hcd north with slcdii-e< a- I'ar as S] ", but had to rcti'acc his 
 -tep-. ( iwiim' 1 o the impcnct rablc condit ion of t he ice. lb- had. 
 howc\-cr, rcacheil a point east of Platen Island. W'ellman 
 a'j,';iiii endea\'oui'e(l to coiKjuei- the ice in 18'.IN, thi- time i-hoo<- 
 
 illLi for hi- b;|-e FraUZ .lo-ef Land. lie Wa- liliel'all.X' line(l out. 
 
 and aeciinipMnie( 1, aiiioML;,' ot liiT-. by fbelyn lb 1 Baldwin of the 
 bniied State.< W'eathei' P)U,"eau. .Ml'. W'ellman made his
 
 ]\-KLLMAX\S I'LAX TO llEACIl NORTH POLE 425 
 
 h(':i(l(iiuirtors at "Harnisworth House/' at Capo Tcsctthoff, for 
 three years \\\v Arctie home of Frederick A. Jackson and 
 his coiirpanions. 
 
 In February, FS99, Mr. W(>lhnan, with three companions, 
 started for tlie Pok' with vxvvy promise of success. An 
 miforeseen accicknit to Mr. Wellman, and an upheaval in the 
 ice, \\"hich (k'stroyed many (kj<i;s and nnich (jf tlieir erjuip- 
 ment, necessitated a hurried return to heackiuarters. Disap- 
 ]^()inte(k l)ut not discouraged, Welhnan organized a series of 
 im])ortant scientific observations and expkjrations, (kn-ing 
 wliick Evelyn Baldwin, in a long sledge journey to Wilczek 
 Land, determined its east(^rn boundary, and discovered, among 
 otlier islands to th(^ northeast, ( Graham Bell Laud. 
 
 To tkat daring and adventurous prince, H. R. H. Luigi 
 Amedeo of Savoy, tlie duke of the Aljruzzi, is due one of the 
 most interesting chajiters in Arctic histor\'. There is chai'ni 
 in the graceful dedication of l)is book, "To Her Majesty the 
 Quei-n-Mothei',"' as well as in his gallant tribute^ to his bravf^ 
 companion^ who won laur(ds under liis direction and fought 
 gallantly the (kmgers of the Arctic under his banner. '"'Ital- 
 ians and Norwegians behaved throughout this voyage as 
 though the crew wer(> com])osed of one natioiudity," he 
 -ays. "I had comrades with me. rather than subordinates. 
 I e\i)!'ess, therefon\ my gratitude- towards all. since to theii- 
 harmonious co(")])eration is due the success of my e.\]i(Mlition, 
 ■AivA I ex])res> the same gratitude to th(^ nunnor}- of the thre(^ 
 bi'a\'e men who ]:)erished whilst on tlie sledge exjx'dition." 
 
 Th(> Ja-^ofi, ha\-ing a carrying ca])acity of five hundrenl and 
 se\"('nty tons cargo, was ])urchase(l l)y the Duke, rimamed 
 thr Sti lln Poljrrc: refitted, (>f|ui])])e(l, ]:)r()visi()ne(l, and mamie(l 
 foi' four years, at a total cost of thii'ty-eight thousand four 
 hundrc(l and thirteen ])oimds sterhnu'. 
 
 Second in comman*! to tlie ])uk(> of Abi'uzzi, wh(», by the 
 wa\'. \v:ts but tW(>nt\'-six M'ars old at the time of his adventure
 
 4 1^1") 
 
 THE (iUEAT WHITE NORTH 
 
 was ('a])tain rnihcrto ( 'a,u;ni of the Italian Navy, in chargo 
 of the sc'icutific ohscrvalions. OtluT ofHcors of the Xavy w(>ro 
 Li(ait(Miaut Francesco (^ucrini, in charu;c of \\\v niin('ralo<;ical 
 colled ions, and Dr. Achille ( '. Molinelli, medical officer, also 
 in cliar<;(> of the zoological and botanical collections. Four 
 other officers, a crew of twelve, and foui- esi)ecially experienced 
 guides completed th(^ jiersonnel of the ex])edition. 
 
 I'nder tlu^ })ersonal ad\'ice and superintendence^ of l^i'. 
 Nans(Mi, who aid(Ml in e\-ery possible way \\iv success of the 
 (^xi)edition, a cari^fully thought out plan was mad(^, by which 
 the Stella Polarc was to lea\"e Ai'chaiigel, early in July, make 
 foi' Cape Mora and Xorlhbook Island, {\stablish a dejx)! 
 provisioned for eight months, then proceed, take uj) winter 
 (juarters as far north as ]i()ssibl(\ close to tli(^ lands lying west 
 of I'Vanz .Josef Land. Sledge journeys in the autunui would 
 establish a cliain of ])]'()\'isi()n cach(\s on the lands to the iiortli, 
 and in \]\v s])ring a sledge jom'uey lo the noi'th for a woi'ld 
 record would be und{>rtak(Mi. A I'dreat to the depot at ( 'a])e 
 ]'"lora with or without the shi]) would insure subsistence^ until 
 the ari'ival of a relief shi]) to b(> sent in two }'ears, or, if the 
 relief shi]) fail(>d, a I'cti-eat to Xo\-a Zembla or Siiitzbergen 
 would i)e undertaken by boats. 
 
 On June :!(), 1S',)9, the Sti l!a Pnhrrc reacluMl Archangel, 
 where one hundred and twenty-one dog< A\'ei'e t;iken aboard 
 to be used in the sledge journex's. ( )n tlie 12th of Jul\', sh(> 
 weighed niiclior and pi'oceeded on hei' x'oyage. ice was en- 
 couiitei'ed, Jul\' 17, and three da\'slatei- Xoi'thlirook Island 
 was sighted, ;nid a visit made to Jackson's huts and Leigh 
 Smith's winter ((uai'tei's. 
 
 'i'he Sicili! /'dlarc bra \'el\' fought her way t hi'ough unfaxnui'- 
 able ice conditions and succeeded in I'eaching N2 Ol' X., 
 .")!»' ]■;. !iy the liriti-h ( ■hannel. Securing an aiH-hoi-age in 
 Teplit/ i'>ay. Prince liudulf Land. <he i'ccci\-ed a di-a-ti'ous 
 nip. Se|)teiiib('r 7, when she s|)rang :i l<'ai<. and il b(>came
 
 ITALIAN EXPEBITION UNDER DUKE OF ABRUZZI 427 
 
 necessary to disembark her ]:)rovisioiis and establish winter 
 (juarters on Rudolf Island. 
 
 "As our ship, which we had abandoned after it had been 
 s(mz(hI by the ic(^," writes the Duke of Abruzzi, "was the only 
 means of our returning home in the following year, we had to 
 consider how to save her. Part of the engines, the condenser, 
 and the furnaces were under water, which had frozen to a 
 thickness of about nineteen inches. The ship had not 
 changed her position, but had heeled over still more as the 
 ice which had sup]:)orte(l her had given way. 
 
 "The water had first to be pumped out of the ship to enable 
 us to find the leak on the left side, and this had to be mended 
 as well as that which was visible on the right side ; we had 
 then to see if it would be possible to keep the ship dry, and 
 if not, to ]:!rotect the engines so that they might remain under 
 water during the winter without being injured. Such was the 
 work l)efore us. At that time I did not believe it possible, 
 but Captain Cagni never despaired for a moment of being 
 able to carry it out, and if it was accomplished, it was owing 
 to his strong will and to liis perseverance, which was nt^ver 
 discouraged by any difficulties." 
 
 Early in tlu^ winter, tlie Duke of Abruzzi, in one of his 
 sledge excursions, had the misfortune to freeze a part of his 
 left hand, which resulted in the loss of the joints of two of his 
 fnigei's. This unfortunate accident prevented his accompany- 
 ing tlie s])ring sledge journey to the north, for which active 
 ])i-e])arations were alr(^ady in progress. The sledges and kay- 
 aks were ])atterned after those used by Dr. Xans(m ; the for- 
 mer ele\'en feet fiv(> inches long, six inches wide, and six and 
 ouc-lialf inches high, with convex runnc^rs shod with ])lates of 
 white metal, and were saturated with a mixture of pitch, 
 sTcarine, and tallow to render them more slii~)])ery and durable. 
 
 Aft(M' careful calculations by Dr. ]\Iolinelli, the rations to 
 })e carried were estimated at two pounds twelve ounces
 
 4-2b 
 
 THE a RE AT WHITE SOUTH 
 
 nine drums yiov day for each man, consist iiifr of biscuit, 
 tinned meat, ])cnnnican, butter, milk, Liel)i<i;"s Extract, 
 doiccated \'e(!,('tal)les, Italian paste, suji,ar, coffee, tea, choco- 
 late, etc. 
 
 The first start was made in Feln'uary, l)ut after travelhng 
 in tlie extreme cold for several day>, tlie i)arty returned and 
 made a fre-h start, March 11. The ex])e(Ution was com]X)sed 
 of ten men and thirteen sledo(.<. wliich, with tlieir loads, 
 wei^uhed five hundred and fift\'-one ptjunds each, and was 
 drawn by one hundredi and two dogs. 
 
 It had been ])revi{jusly settled \o send back detachments, 
 after twelve, twenty-f(jur, and thirty-<ix d^a}':- ; the last de- 
 taclnnent to remain in tlie field seventy-two days. C'afi'ni, 
 howe\-er. modifi(-d tliese ])lans, and in the meantime the DulvC 
 (jf Abruzzi anxiou>l\' \\"aited the I'eturn of the first detachment. 
 On A])ril bS, the second detaclnnent retui'netl Xo camp; they 
 had left ( 'onunander ('agin, Alarcli 'M . The first detachment, 
 consi-tinu' of Lieutenant (^ueriui, St()kken, and Oilier, had 
 stai'tecl to return March 2o. An innne(liat(- search was in- 
 stituted for the mi>-ing- men. l)Ut without results. After 
 e\"ery eff(jrt had Iicen ex])ended, the thrc' men were given u]) 
 for lo-t. Meantime, the other su])])on inu; parties having 
 returned, anxiety was beginning to marnf(->t il-^elf for Cagiu. 
 Idic da\' M'1 for his returrj had come and u'one. ( )n May H), 
 Dr. Molinejli and two com])anion> hail set out for ( 'a])e 
 ITi'ivly, with i)ro\'i-ion- for ten day.<. to look for him. Th(> 
 Oukc of Abi-uz/i anxiously scanned the horizon with hi- telc- 
 -f-n|)c f(ir -iu'n- of lii- mi->iug comijanion-. Afti-r an ai)-cne;' 
 of one huiKJi'ed ainl four da>'s, ( 'a]) tain ( 'au'ui, wit h t lu-ee ci)iii- 
 lumioii-, ha\"iiiLi.' madi' a world record and reached -S'i^ '-W . 
 w-i- -milled in the di-tanee and welcomed home b\- his iui- 
 j)a_tieiit and ent [ni-ia-f ie eom[)anion-. 
 
 "Ahhouuti tlieii' -trenuth had be(-ii much I'eiluced."' writf'S 
 Abnizzi, "bx" waul of .-ulhcient food, t he\' wei'e not exhau,-te(I.
 
 LOSS OF THE '' STELLA POLAUE'' 429 
 
 The seven clogs which survived seemed much worsc^ ; some of 
 them wi^re merely skin and l)one. The only part of their out- 
 fit they had Ijrought back that was still capable of being of 
 any use, was their tent, and this had been mended. The frame- 
 work of the kayaks had been broken and their canvas torn, so 
 that th(\y could not be used unless a week was spent in mend- 
 ing tluun. The sledges which remained had been mended 
 with pieces of other sledges. All that was left of their cooking 
 utensils was the outer covering of the stove, a saucepan which 
 had been mended, and the plates. The Prinms lamp had been 
 re])laced by a pot, in which dog's grease had been burned for 
 th(> last few weeks. The sleeping-bag had been thrown away, 
 and only the thick canvas lining kept. Their clothes were in 
 rags." 
 
 Cagni had advanc(Hl under the same tr\'ing conditions of 
 hummocky ice, slush, and deep snow that had l)een encount(n"ed 
 l\v Xansen ; he had had the misfortune^ to freeze one of his 
 fingers, and suffercnl excruciating pain, necessitating his 
 o]ierating with his own hand and removing the cU^ad mass with 
 a pair of scissors. He had steadily advanced until A])ril 25, 
 1900. 
 
 His return journey covered sixty days under the most 
 alarming conditions ; for on Ma}' 18, he writes: "I feel more 
 and more every day a terrible^ anxiety with regard to our fate. 
 After marching nine days toward the southeast, we are nearly 
 on the same meridian," owing to tlie southwest drift of the 
 ic(^-])ack. Fom- W(M^ks more of almost su})(^i'human effort 
 l)rought them to Harly Island, from which ))oint they made 
 tliinr way to Kudolf Island. 
 
 AMth the acliievement of this brilliant record it now r(^- 
 malned but to free the Stella Pohtrc by blasting and cutting 
 chann(4s about lun' snug fiuarters. Th(> bi'icf Arctic summer 
 ha\-ing s(^t in, her delivcM'ance at last was s(M'ured, and "At 
 half-])ast one in the morning of August IG, everytiiing was
 
 •ioO THE GIIEAT WHITE ^sORTlL 
 
 ready, ami we steamed slowly away from the sliore, giving 
 tliree cheers a.> we turned round the ice of the bay which had 
 held us >o long im])risoned."' 
 
 In ('(jntrast to the Italian ex])edition, the Baldwin-Ziegler 
 Polar expedition, which sailed fr(jm Ti'om^oe, X(jrwa\', July 
 17, l!)f)(j. ^tands out conspicuously. Mr. Baldwin was born 
 in Springfield, Missouri, in 1802. lie had >een Arctic .-er\-ice 
 with the Peary expediti(jn of l89o-liS!M, and had come near 
 being one of the ill-fated Andree Ijalloon part}'. He had dc^ne 
 good service with W'ellman in Franz Jo.-ef Land, and ]io\v 
 witli the unlimited means put at his disposal by the munih- 
 cence of Mr. \\'illiam Ziegler of Xew York, he pr(jpo.sed to 
 conriuer the Pole. 
 
 " t )nr fleet," wrote Mr. Baldwin in McCl'irc's Mnynzi/K, 
 Se])tenil)er, 1001, " com])rises three \-essels. Tlio America, our 
 fiag>hi]), as some on(' lias (>x])re>sed it, is a three-masted ship- 
 i'ion(.,i >te;tm(M' of 40() ton- net bui'dcn, dri\'i!iL;,' a sinu'le -cri'W. 
 Her length (jv(>r all is b")7 feet ; be:uii. 27 feel ; dejnh, 10 
 feet. . . . Tlie Fr/tf/Kif is a Xorweiiian sj.ilinu'-ve.-sel, . . . 
 the third vessel is the lichjin, which carried the P^'luian Antarc- 
 tic exj)ediiion of 1 S07 fsOO. undiT ('apiain r.crlache." 
 
 >,e\-er Ix'fore in the history of Polar exix"!!; ii m- was foml 
 and e'|uii)ment carrieil in >uch luxurin!i- ])r(M'u-ion. The 
 three ve^-ej- \vere as many fh.iatinu' hold- with larders lacking 
 " not liiiiii,' that tore.-iiiht, ex])erience, ;uid the uviiercxity of 
 Mr. Zii'ii'li'r conld -ui:-'j.-i-<t or i)rocure."' 
 
 I!ic -ciciitific e(|iiipiiie!it wa- al-o complete, incjudini: 
 .-mall baljiion- with relea-inu' di'\"ice,< foi' dejxi-itiim' record-^ 
 \\'!ii-ti ihi' Ufound w;i- I'l^ai'hed, liiioy- with recofib io be sent 
 ilo.'iliim' back Id ci\-i!izalion by the currents, -carch-liLilit.- and 
 wiri'lf'.-- tdi-irrapli. bc-idf< ti|(. -i.aiidard scient ihc iii-i rumenis 
 t'lr mctcori i!r,mc;,!. a-' I'Miiomicab ati'l ^vdilrt ic wdrk. There 
 vN'-rc iliiv,' tiundri'd ;iiid twenty dou-. and fit'leen ponie.- in 
 char,^"'' u\ A\ cxix'i-t I{ii--i,aii ih'i\'i'r-.
 
 BALDWIN ZIEGLER EXPEDITION OF IMOO 431 
 
 "The ])re5;cnt expedition," wrote Air. Baldwin, ''typifies 
 the spirit of the twentietli century;" and he add.s, "Xo 
 prevloQrf expedition to the north has ever made such com])l(,'te 
 arrangements for the transmission of news baclv to civilization 
 as that which I have the honor to command." 
 
 "The America and the FrithioJ left Tromsoe, Norway, in 
 July, 1901, for Franz Josef Land, which lialdwin regarded as 
 the best starting-point for a polar venture," writes Mr. P. F. 
 ]\FGrath in the Reuiew of Reviews, July, 1905, "])roceeding to 
 Alger Island, in latitude 80° 24' north, longitude o'f 52'' east, 
 where he estaijlisluHi his winter Cjuarters. The FrithioJ 
 imloaded her stores and proceeded south, leaving the Atnerica 
 harlxjred, with the dogs and ecjuipment ashore, portable 
 lujuses erected, and detail of duties being carried out. The 
 I)ersounel comprised 42 souls, — 17 Americans, G Hussians, 
 and 19 shipmcn, mostly Norwegians. Game was j)lentiful, 
 and several tons of bear and walrus meat were accunmlated, 
 the former for the men and the latter for the dogs. With this 
 ])ase beyond the eightieth parallel, Baldwin intended to push 
 forward with his ^\\\\), or over the ice, ex]')loring the adjacent 
 i'(>gio!i for uncharted land mass(>s which would supply station- 
 ary ])oints, insiu'ing him against the disadvantages of an ad- 
 vance' across tlu^ shifting ice, and from the farthest north (.)f 
 tliese he would, the next s])ring. make his dash across tlu^ 
 crystal fields for the Pole. In this lu> would enijiloy alxjut 
 twenty-five men as a vanguard and reserve, the H\'ing colunm 
 ])usliiiio; ra])idly ahead, and the transport train following with 
 th(^ licavi(-r su]i]4ies. Numerically, the party would be strong 
 enough to overcome otherwise s(>rious obstacles, while the 
 f]Uantity of su])])li(>s to be carried l)y 820 dogs and 1 ") ])oni('s 
 would ])ut th(^ ]-)()ssil)ili1y of disaster almost out of the question. 
 . . . With thi< elaborate^ progrannne. and the knowledge that 
 the Duke of Abruzzi. witli a much smallei' part\', attained a 
 northing of 80' oo', Baldwin confidenll\' anticipatetl making the
 
 4B2 TIIH CHEAT WHITE yOItTlI 
 
 Pok'. And, iih ill that .segment of the Arctic C.'ircle lie miglit 
 find liiinseii', in rettirning, obliged by ice und currents to head 
 for the (ireenland coast, which reaches to 83° 27', or ISO 
 miles nearer the Pole than his base, he planned that if he 
 should be swerved westward by the tides, it would b(^ easier 
 to reach that shore. There he would find musk-oxen to eke 
 out his sui)j)lies, and journey down the east coast to where 
 the depot was made by the Belyica for him. But, as often 
 happens in Polar work, Baldwin's hoi)es were blasted, dissen- 
 sions rent his ])arty asimder, his dogs ])erishcd by the score, 
 and after a futile att(,'mpt to get uoi'th, he and his whole 
 party returned to Tromsoe in Atigust, 11)02, while the Frithiof, 
 which had sailed for Alger Island a month ])reviotis with addi- 
 tional (jutfits and for news of him, had to retreat, owing to the 
 imbroken ice-pack." 
 
 The relurn of the Baldwin-Ziegler ex]:iedition in the auttmm 
 of 1002 was followcMl by that reorganized by Air. Ziegler and 
 given to the leadership of ]\Ir. Anthony Piala of Brooklyn, 
 Xew Yorl;, to be carried out on ])ractically the same lines laid 
 out by Mr. ]^)aldwin. 
 
 r'ai)t:iin l^dwin Coffin, of Edgartown, ?^Iassacliusetts. was 
 clio-eii as n:ivigating officer, and he assembled an American 
 crew, most of tluMii exi)eri(Miced whalers. Of the Field StalT, 
 :\Ir. ^^'iHiamJ. Peters, of the ( leological Survey and represent- 
 ing the Xational (leograjihic Society, was chosen as chief 
 scieiiti-t and second in command of the (>\i)edit ion. The 
 results of \\\< -yslematlc records and magnetical obser\-at ions, 
 when in ihc north, were of the highest value, and he rendered 
 most ediriciit ser\-ice. 
 
 Afler rollccting stores and e(iuii)ment, the .l///r/-/(Y/ saihd 
 from Trondhjcm. Xorw;iy, June 2:',, 100:5. Brief slop^ weiv 
 iii;idc at llic i-l;iiid of Troim') .Mnd Archangrl. where dogs. 
 ])(iiiii-, .•iiid .-iddi'lonal stoics were taken aboard. The ice 
 A\-a> tir-t met, July b!, in 71' ol' north latitude, iW^ '-M' east
 
 
 .4 '■ 
 
 '■^t 
 
 1 
 
 :; f,- 
 
 ■w 
 
 s, 
 
 i 
 
 :A' ' 
 
 % 
 
 ;:u
 
 RETriiN OF EXPEDITION IS AUTUMN 433 
 
 lono-itvide, through which the America steamed and blasted 
 her way to Cape Flora, which was reached August 12. A 
 few days later Triplitz Bay was passed, with the "skeleton- 
 like remains of tlu^ framework of the tent where lived the 
 brave Abruzzi and his com]:)anions, standing out in plain view." 
 The America made the highest northing of a ship under 
 steam in the Western Hemisphere, and reached a point, 82° 
 north latitude ; she then returned to Triplitz Bay. Upon 
 landing, Fiala found the xlbruzzi cache in excellent condition. 
 ''Camp Abruzzi" was established, scientific work at once 
 begun, and preparations commenced for the spring sledge 
 journey to the noi'th. 
 
 Severe gales struck in early in Octol)er, and continued 
 almost unremittingly until the last of the month, when they 
 ragwl with such fury as to threaten the safety of the ship. 
 
 She bravely withstood the terril.)l(^ ice pressures to which 
 she was subjected until January 23, when, during a frightful 
 hurricane, she disapj)cared from view. 
 
 Tlie first week in March a sledging journey was undertaken, 
 comprising twenty-six men, sixteen pony-sledges, and thirteen 
 dog-sledges, but the severity of storms, and the suffering and 
 hardshi]) endured from cold, decided the party to return, and 
 cam]) was reached on Alarch 11. Other journeys of short 
 duration were undertaken with similar success. Leaving 
 ])art of the com])any at Camp Abruzzi, Fiala made a retreat 
 to Ca])e Flora, thcnx^ to await the ]iromised relief ship which 
 was (x]M'eted early in August. His idea was to renew his 
 Xoi'th Pole d;ish the following season. 
 
 Tlu^ exj)ect<'d ship was eagerly watched for, but as the 
 months sp(Hl by on(^ l)y one, and the ship (Ud not come, 
 l)r(>])arations wore made for wintering, and the liberal depots of 
 su])plies left by Jackson, Abruzzi, and Andrce, were examined 
 and found in (excellent condition. 
 
 '■ I'^lmwooil," Jackson's litlk^ house, was dug out and
 
 484 
 
 TlIK (iHEAT UlllTh- XOUTII 
 
 ni-iilc li;il)!t;il)l<\ ( 'otninuiiiciition was iVcHiuciit Ix'twccii 
 "('amp Ai)ru//i" and " l^lniwood."' 
 
 I'iala, in a roll and daii^vrous joiirucy, returned to ( 'anij) 
 Ahru/zi, Wiiei'e he made iii'eparations for anotlier >p!'in,i;' jour- 
 ne_\' toward the i\)le, to he uniha'laken with one comjjanion, 
 three doii; teanr-, and a sup})ort in,ii' coliunn of three small 
 detachments. Scniman Dully, who ha.d a('('()nupauied Idahi 
 to ('a|)e ijarentz in Atiiiust, 1901, and ( "amj) l'd(.)ra in June 
 of the sam(> \'ear, was chosen as his companion. The sta.i't 
 was made in March, but very slow pro.^ress \\'as niad(\ .\fter 
 days of disheartening!,' tra\'el, co\'erinL;; hut a few miles a daiy, 
 the conditions ii,!'ew worse instead of hettei'. ■'()ur trail was 
 fi'om ice-cake to ic(^-cake," writes Fiala. "wliile we cross(>d tlie 
 separating; water l>y means of ice-hrid'j,- ^s lahoi'iously con- 
 structed at the narrowest points with our ice-t)icks. In other 
 |)!ac(>s, we ti'a\"erse(l monster ])ressure .''id^es that s])lintei'ed 
 and thundered under our feet, sc;u'In<i- the do.us until tliey 
 wliineil and whimpeiv'Ml in their tei'ror. It was diiii(ailt to 
 fiiid a cake (if ice lar,i2,'e enou'ih h»r our >mall party to camp 
 on. Dee]) snow and mimerous water-lanes, with a hi_iih 
 temperature and at tendant fo,u', al<o iiiipediedi our ad\'ani'e." 
 
 On March '22. t he adx'ance was alia'idoned, and ten dax's 
 were o;-cupied in the retreat. ( "aanp Ahruzzi was reached, 
 Apiil 1. 
 
 ddii' I'clief ship Tiri'd Xovt readied ('ape l^'loi'a tiie end 
 of .lul\'. picked up th(> part \' (aicamp(Nl I liei'e. ;aid, 1 ouchinu' at 
 ( 'ape Dillon, took a hoard, t ke j'cmai Cider. It wa< t hi n learned 
 that in !*)t) 1 1 he /■'/■/'////(//' had made t w'o hold attempts lo reach 
 Cape I'iora, l)Ut had keen un<ucce<-i'ul.
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 
 Otto Sv(>r(ii'up. — l'\)ur velars' vo^'aiiv of the Frnm. — Joiu'ticys in 
 llilrsuuTf Land. — lini)()rtant L'xpltiratloii of Jon('^ Sound. — Dis- 
 covery of new laiuls. --- liclca^c of Xlw^Frain. Captain Koald 
 Amundsen. — The voyai2,'('of the ('-'///r/. - Meaelu's head of Petersen 
 Bay (Kinj:; ^\'iUianl Land). -Two years' stay. — \'ahiahh^ sci- 
 cn.tiht' o'.)ser\-ations. — N'isils from Lskimos. — Sled,u'(> jouriK^vs. 
 — Pel(;i.M' from the ice. — August 14. l!)()tK --- Completion of 
 th(> Xoi'tiiwest: l\iss;i<re. -Anotlier Arctic winter. — Sled.u'e joui- 
 ney of Anuuulseu to VavxXc City. — Relea.se of tiie Cjoa. — 
 Reaches San l''ranci-;co, 11)07. 
 
 Ix tlie (Te()(jr(iph'ic(d Journal of Xovombor, 1902, Sir 
 Clonieiits ]\. Alarkluun. President of the Royal ('ieo!2;ra])hi('al 
 SocictN' of London, connncntins on the reinai'kabic achic^ve- 
 nient of ()1T() Sverdrtip and liis ,i;-allant (•onii)anions dnrinu' 
 fonr li'avellin'j; sc^asons (nitailinji' four Arctic winKn-s, expresses 
 hiinself as follows : — 
 
 ■■ddi(>y have discovered th(^ western side of Kllesnu^re Island 
 and the intricate system of fiords, as well as three lar,u'(> islands 
 west i)f l-d.l(>sriier(> I>land ; tlu\v lia\"e ex])lore(l {he northern 
 coast i)f Xorth Devon: lliev lia\'e connected P)elclier'> woi'k 
 ^•\•:ll! tlie coasts (^f Jones Sound; tliey have- reaclunl a ])oint 
 williin (■)() miles of Aldi'ich's farthest ; and they ha\'e disco\'- 
 (■!-ed (hat laPid north of tlie Paia'v Ishuids. tlu^ exi-tence of 
 A\'hich w;i:- I'onjectui'ed, as fai' west as the lonuitude of the 
 ea-tei'u co..>t of Melville Island. Tlii- include- the disi'o\-cry 
 of the noi'tliei'ti sides of Xorlh ('ornw-d! aud Findla\' I-lauids. 
 In addil:ou to th.e m.ain Arctic ]);'o')h>in wlileh is thus >oh'( d, 
 i' !- h';eh/ thai *la' reirions ilis<'o\-ereil will he nf i-xf-pt ioual 
 uiier''--!, fi'cMu the wiudi.-; and (au'rents, the \'ai'\"ijiii' charaiaer 
 
 ■13.-,
 
 4ot; IllK (.HEAT WHITE N<jRTIl 
 
 of The ice, the existence of coal-beds, and the abundance of 
 animal life. A systematic survey has been made of these 
 important discoveries, checked by astrcjnomical o])servations." 
 
 '"We must look forward," concludes Alarkham, ''to an 
 account of these things, and to the details of the expedition, 
 with th(^ deepest interest ; and meanwhile we may well ex- 
 ]:)ress admiration for the way in which the work was conceived 
 and executed, and at the perfect harmony with wliich all loy- 
 ally worked under their chief. A\'ithout such harmonious 
 work, succc^ss was not ]X)ssible." 
 
 The Norwegian, Otto Xeumann Sverdru]), was born in 
 Eindalen, in Helgeland, in I800. At seventeen yccU's of age he 
 went to s(>a, ])assed his mate's examination in 1S78, and iov 
 sonu^ years was captain of a ship. He ac('omi)anied Xansen 
 on the (ireenland expedition in bSSS-lSs9 and was captain of 
 the Frnm on Xansen's famous Polar voyimf. A few days 
 after the return of this ex]")edition in Si'])tcml)er, ISOfi, while 
 the FraiN was lying in Lysaker Bay. Dr. Xan-en came aboard 
 one morning. 
 
 ''Do you still wish to go on another ex])edition to the 
 north?" he asked Sverdrup. 
 
 "Y(>s, certainly, if only I had the chance." came the 
 prompt re])ly. 
 
 Then Xan-^en told him that Consul Axel Ilcibcru- and the 
 firm of brewers, Messrs. Ringnes l^u'othcrs. were willing to 
 hnance and e(|uip another scientific Polar exixnlition. with 
 <"a])tain ."-^verdru]) a- leader. 
 
 d he Fi'dni w;i< loaned ])y the Xorweuian uovernment, and 
 about eleven hundred |)ounds was uTarited by tlie " Storthinu' " 
 tor necessary altefation- and i'e]")air-. The prr^onnel of tlie 
 expedition was mo-t ca?'efuli\- selected, including faeutenanl 
 \ie1()!' IVanman of tlie Xoi'wc'iiian Xav\-. Lii'Ulenant [ngx'ald 
 l.-ach-en of the Arm\'. the botani-t Herman ( leoru' .""^immons. 
 ;i graduate of the Pnix-ei'.-it \- of Lund: and Ivh'ard P:i\-.
 
 FOUR VI-JAUS' V()YA(rJ£ OF THE '• FliA^f " 4o7 
 
 zoolo^i^ist, u graduate of the Univc^rsity of Copenhagen, the 
 latt(H" a member of Lieutenant Ryder'.s expedition to the 
 east coast of (Ireenland in 1891. 
 
 The Frain was ready for sea, June 24, 1898, and left her 
 moorings \v\[\i the quay pael^iMl with people and tlie fiord 
 covered with small craft "which had come to see the last of 
 us and wish us a safe return home." 
 
 Captain Sverdrup's original plan was to push through 
 Kennedy and Robeson channels and as far along the north 
 coast of Creenland as possible before seeking wintei' (juarters. 
 The unfavourable seasons of 1898-1899 prevented him from 
 carrying out his intentions, and he fortunately turned his 
 attention to Jones Sound, which led to the compl(>ti(;n of the 
 most imjiortant Arctic work yet remaining; "namely, the 
 discovery of wliat was hitherto unknown in the wide gap 
 i)etween Prince Patrick Island and Aldrich's farthest." 
 
 Frustrated in his attempt to enter Kane Basin, Sverdrup 
 wintered in Rice Strait, west of Cape Sabine. ImnKnliate 
 pre])arations wen^ made for ])assing \hv cold season, and scien- 
 tihc oi)servations and exploring trips occupicnl the autumn. 
 
 In describing the sun sinking out of sight, Sunday, October 
 10, 1898, Sverdrup says : ~ 
 
 ''We were looking at the sun for the last time that year. 
 Its ])ale light lay dying over the 'inland ice' ; its disk, light 
 red. ^\-as veiled on the horizon ; it was like a day in the land of 
 th(^ dead. All light was so ho]ielessly cold, all life so far away. 
 A\'e stood an<l watched it until it sank: tlien everytliing became 
 so still it made ont^ shudder — as if the Almighty had d(>serted 
 us, and shut the dates of Heavcni. The light died away across 
 the mountain-, and slowly vanish(>d. while over us cr(>])t the 
 great shades of t\\v ))olar night, the night that kills all life. 
 I tliink that each of us. as we stood there, felt liis heart swell 
 witliin him. Xcn-er before had wo (experienced homesickness 
 lik'> this — and little was said when we continued on our wav.
 
 4:]H 
 
 Til!-: (;ni:A'r white xoirni 
 
 . . . Hi re caiiic l-'i'aiikliii, with a liun<lr(-(l and thirty-('i,<;'hl 
 men. 'I he j)(.ila'' iii^ht >l(j]j])cfl him ; ainl not one rcturnciL 
 li('!'(M'aiii(' ( Irccly, with ii\'(' and twenty men ; six rctui'iUML . . . 
 Well! tiicrc lay the Fr(ti/i, stout and dchant, hkc a httlc 
 fairy-liousc, in tlic midst oi the polar niulit. It was warm 
 and l)ri,u,ht in iiei- cabins, and we woi'ked with a will Irom 
 niornin,-!; to ni,ii'!it." 
 
 SiedL;..' joiU'Mey^, ineliidin<;- a \-isit to the Winjlirdrd^ Lieu- 
 tenant ]'ear\'s ship, and a personal interview with the ex- 
 j)lorer himself; xisits to the /-"/v//// hy neliiJ!] loMi'inu: l->kimos 
 and a itriiliant journey across kdlesmere hand, occiipieil meni- 
 Im-1'- of the S\-erdi'ii]) expedition until .May 17, 1-^'.)!), when 
 those on hoard the Frani celehrated with true patriotism the 
 Independence Day (jf Xorwa\'. 
 
 On one of the early sunnner sleduc journeys, V)\\ J(jhan 
 S\-end-en saetihceil his lih'. ()verralinu' hi- eiidui'ance, he 
 had rapidly tailed, and thou.^h he per-i>ied in renraininu' in 
 t!:*' held, his sti'eniilh did nol I'eturn. Aft(-r a day's work, 
 S\'ei'dnip came into camp, Avhere Sclei and Simmons wei'e 
 cookin'j; diimer. "ddie doctor >aid he U\\ much better," 
 writes S\'erdrup; "the ])ain in his sidi' wa- ,ivone. and hi> eyes 
 had -o fai' reco\"ei'e(l that he could >it in--i.!e ihe tent without 
 >pecla''les. ... I then asked him for a second time if he 
 would not let me take him on hoard, now iiiai wr had all 
 re-led. hut he would not hear of il, ap,d said that he >hould 
 t)i'cfi'!' to remai!! wlu'!'!- he wa^s. I then oi'fi'i'cd to -ta\' hdiind. 
 witli him we could collect insect-- and -hoot seals toLi'el liei'. 
 I)Ut !!-■ Would not let me deha' the jotU'liey to P.cil -I ad: jord. 
 anil ,-:i!(! that the lime would pa-s quickly. 
 
 il whi'Mi he wa- 
 
 tliei'i alone. He could iL'o out ^lootlnu'. e(i!f ri in-cct-. ;;ii'! 
 loolc cfter h!< do'i- : he would lia\'e pleiily Id do. ... \\ e 
 
 i:ot !■( ;id\- f,ir oiu' four da>--' ti'ip to I'.rit -i a'h'joi'd. anil the 
 d(/e'or lielpcd u- to carry down our tliinu^. la-h tlie loads 
 to til.- -Ii-dn,.-, aid luarne-- the do'^-. Au'l tiienwe -aid
 
 For II YKAIiS VOVAdE OF TIIF -FHAM" 4-"5n 
 
 g()()il-l)y to one anolhor, little thinkinj:;' what was about to 
 ha])]:)('n." 
 
 Four days later the absent party returned. ''To our ,<;Teat 
 sorrow we found the doctor dc^ad." 
 
 On June IG. 1899, Ca})tain Sverdrup made the entry in 
 his joiu'nal : — 
 
 '"The Ha,u' is (lying at lialf mast from the ])ole to-day. It 
 is the first time it has been in this position on Ixjard th(^ Frain, 
 let us hope" it will indeed b(^ the last.'' 
 
 Th(> inlerestina,' ,jO"arn.e\' across tlu^ "inhuid ice" of l-^ih^^- 
 m(>re b:nid, by Isachscn and Bi'askerud \v;).s undertaken May 
 2:], 1S1)9, with food for thii'ty days, and instruments and e{[uip- 
 nient ; a total wei.uht of ei^-ht lnmdre(l and sev(>nty-tw() 
 l)ound-, divid(Ml equall}' Ti])on the sle(l!i-('s, each drawn by six 
 doGs. Choosing a route to th(> westward, Tsachsen writes in 
 his r(>poi't : — 
 
 "About midnight on .June 2, we saw from the high gromiil 
 to the northwest the first siglit of what, later, ])rove(l th(> w(\-;t 
 coast. It was a hord-arni, which cut into tlie land in an east- 
 erly dii'ection from the larger fiord lying almost du(> north 
 and south. biT'in tiie outer ])art of this fiord-arm a chain of 
 mountain^ of e(ju.d heights ran in a southeasterly dii'ection. 
 \carei'. and in fi'ont of this chain, was a wide level w;i.ste — ■ 
 ' l')r;(1v(Tndfl\ a." Thei'c was no snow, (atlier on tlie wa>tc or 
 on tlie mounialiis. In one ])art only of the chain was a frau'- 
 na nt of .lihu-icr to be se(ai hanging; over th(> up]:»(n' ])art of the 
 mountain -ide. In, the southeast the waste aJjutted imme- 
 diately on 1 he ■ inland ice." "' 
 
 ''r;'a\'eirmg ovi'r a glacier. th(\v (aid(>avoured to rc^ich the barc^ 
 !;!!)'! of till' hord : \\\\< they succecdi'il in doing, June \. 
 ''J"hr('i> com-ci'giriii' ii'l;icicrs fell into a glacier-lake, ami the 
 f(»!!ov,-i.iM' .!.:iy we dro\-e on 'hi- down the valley, but only for 
 a eonjile '.){ miles, which \\-:!> the extent of its length. Tla^ 
 ice on it was about to break up."
 
 44() 
 
 TIIK a UK AT WJIITI-: yoRTlI 
 
 Ilavinu; cnfamjX'd, the two tnon rambled over a consider- 
 able area in the vicinity; findin,ti' luxuriant \'cii;etation wher- 
 ever there was bare laud. At a distance some ten (jr ele\-en 
 miles in a noilhwesterly directiiju, tliere \va- no " inland ice'' 
 west (jf the northermnost f;laciers pre\'iou>ly inenti(jn('<l. 
 After c(jnlinuin<^' their ex])lorations lor se\-eral da\'s, they ^\'er(,' 
 forced toretui'u thr(_)UU'h continued Itad weather. f(j,u>. and <iales. 
 On June 22, tlie thirtieth day since Icavinii' the ship, — the 
 f(jod sui)])ly remainin,i!,' \va< i-etluced to alxjut fifty biscuit-, 
 ten and a half tablets of conipres-ed lentils, about l\jiU' ])ounds 
 of penunican, enouiih coffee for twice, six whole rounds, or 
 seventy-two rations, of dog-fooil, and a half .uallon of petro- 
 leinn. After a delay of six da\'- by tlie inclement weather 
 andi a slow and diffictilt ]:)ro^a'res< to the top oi Leffert (ilacier, 
 it wa.s with joy that a relief ])art\' from the -hi]") were met 
 with, and "the followiiru' da\' ^\■(■ di'<i\"e down Leifei't (dacier, 
 (ju s])lendid sikjw, and reached the Ffmn on Sunday, July 2, 
 at five in the UKji-ninu'."' 
 
 On Au,uu>t 4, the conditions beiim' more fa\'ourable than 
 heretofore, f'a])tain S\'erdrup endea\'(jure(l to navi^'ate the 
 Fi'inn throuuh Kane Iia-in. In Payer Harbor an American 
 steamer was siu-hte<l, .u'oini!; northea-t. To the joy of all. the 
 steamer .-iuiialled she had letter^ on board for tlie Xor- 
 weu'ian-, 
 
 Thc' attem])t to ]ienetratr' Kane Ra-in wa< un-ucce<>ful ; 
 the Frmn \va- forced back to I-"ouike I'jord. a -hoi't (li-talicc 
 from one of Pcai'y's -hip-. ('a])taii! Martlott. I )r. I)ieda-ii-k. 
 and one or two othei' member- of the (xpedition exchanucd 
 courte-ic- with the \orweu.ia_n-. Mr. I^ji'idmnan and Profe-- 
 sor I.ibbcy c;itiic aboai'd t!ie h'mm. 
 
 \' •'■'.'a- e-ii'ncd that the mail brou^'ht iioi'tli h;td been left 
 at ]\iyci' Ilni'bo:'. The /-'/v/?// enilea\'oUred t o u'et it. but the 
 impeiM'i rabjr p-irk ])ri'\'eiitcd, and afti-r t!,c mo-t de<]-)crate 
 e''!'ort -■ t he\' !ia\-(' uj) in dc-i)air. It wa- at t hi- iunciurc aft er
 
 sciEx riFic onsEii i 'A rioxs 44 1 
 
 the ;ib;ui(lonmcnt of the i)lan to trace the northern extremity 
 of (lieenhmd, that Sverchnip transferred his base to tlie fiords 
 of the north coast of Jones Sound. Securing no less than 
 thirty-three wah'us for dog-food, the Frani estabhshed the 
 second winter quarters at Havnefjord in 96° 29' X., 84° 25' W. 
 (iain(> and seals were found in plenty during the autunm, 
 also musk-oxen, hares, and reindeer. IMost successful scien- 
 tific res(>arches wei'c promoted, sledging parties continued 
 explorations, and the only event to mar a liap])y autumn 
 was the death of Braskerud. Pie had had a very bad cold, 
 was ill a fortnight with a cough and had great difficulty in 
 breathing, but had suffered no pain ; there was no doctor, and 
 nothing could be done to relieve him ; he had kept his bed the 
 last three days of his illness, and no on(^ dreamed the end was 
 so near. 
 
 Pre])arations for the "grand sledge journey" of the spring 
 ke])t the nuni busy during th(> winter and c^arly in the season 
 Isachsen, Bay, Schei, and Stolz, each man witli a full load, 
 v.'ent to examine the outlying depots placed the previous fall. 
 At Bj()rncborg, the ravages of bears luid cau>ed loss of hjod 
 tuid damaged cciuipment, and this seri(jus menace to the suc- 
 cess uf the future journeys decided ('a))tain Sverdru]) to ])lace 
 a watchman at this lonely and isolated spot. Bay, the 
 zorilogist, volunteered for the duty and was appointcnl "C'om- 
 mandtmt of P)jorne])org." 
 
 "On March 7," writes Sv(>rdru]i, " Fosheim and I start(Ml 
 we^i in company with the newly a])]^()int(Ml connnandant. 
 A little after twelve the following day we arrived at the boat- 
 hou^e. . . . After finisliing our work we had dinner, which 
 was a-' su~;taining as it was s])lendid, and consisted of boiled 
 beef. saus;i,a.-e. sou]), and green ])(nis. After dinner we had 
 ili\'im< and cot'fee. and after suj^jx'r grog. I'^ai'ly next morning, 
 and on good ice, we dro\'e on, running by the side of the lo.ads 
 nearly the whole day to inci'ea-e the ])ace. We reached
 
 442 THE CHEAT WliriE NOHTII 
 
 \\]i\vm'\)org in tlu^ evenin<i-, wIum'C \\q found our now depot 
 in ui)()(l order. 
 
 '■X(>x1 da>' \\v sot To work on tlic ('r(n'tion of tli(> Coni- 
 nuuidaiit's i'('si(l('ii('(\ W'c huilt a vci'v rcsjx'ctablo house. 
 . . . Lilvc otlier residences of the kind. ' ijj(")ruel)or<2;' must 
 have its flau', we tliouiilit, and a> we M'ei'e in ])()ssessi()n of a 
 fla;j.-falT, whicli, considei'in^u; our circunistauces, Avas irre- 
 l)roach.al)le, we secui'ed it to the roof, and rau up a 17th 
 of .Ma\' iia'j;. P>ut our ( 'oinniandaul was economical, and 
 woul<l onl\' use it on occa-ions of esjX'cial ceremon}-. 
 
 "Ifei-e !5a\' li\-ed. aloohilely alone, for thre(^ months, and 
 durinii' the first part of the time without so umch as a hving 
 Ix'inti' for companv' : al'tei'wards lie had a <^arri>on consistiu.ii' 
 of a whole walch-doa;. I )urinti; all this lon^ii; period 1 never 
 saw him out of spirits." 
 
 The h)l!o\viirii' day. Sx-crdruj) and Id)rheim nia<l(" an exami- 
 n.ation ol' the ice. wliich in the iiords was ruiiiicd and hum- 
 mocky. ('jjon \\\v relui'ii to the >!iip if was decided that 
 F)amnann, leadiu'j; the >Uj)j)oriinu party, should leave tlie ship 
 Saturday, March 17, with full loads, "with l)jr»rnelior,ti' as 
 their destination : retui'iiitru' t!ienc(> to the hoat-house to fetch 
 pi'o\'l>ion- and do^-lood, which were to he u<eil on the a])- 
 ])r()achiiui, journeys ^ve-t\vard." 
 
 i''oi' lhe<e journeys. l>ach-;en and T[a->el AV(M'e to mal\e (Mie 
 parl\'. l''o-heini ;tnd S\(M-dru]) the second. Schei and Pedei- 
 the third. All were to meet at r)jr)i'nel)orii' on March 21, 
 l;itei' to -ep;ir;;ie an<l joui'ney in difl'ereiit directions. 
 
 41 le following rat ions A\-ere allot ted to t he difh'i'ent ])arties: — 
 
 l';iM!iiaim and hi- men, 2!() da\'-' ration^, ahout o.'lO ponnds. 
 
 1-arti-eii and l[;i--el . I'K) day-' !'ation.-. a!)out 220 pounds. 
 
 Sxerdrup and 1 'o-dieim. iOd da\>-" ration-, aI)ou1 200 pounds. 
 
 Sc.hei and I'ed-r . . . SO d;iy>" ration-, alniul 17") pounds. 
 
 ])ay . 00 da\>^" I'ation-, ;il)ouf 200 pounds.
 
 SLFBdE JOUnXEYS 448 
 
 T!i(' '■({rent Exix'dition," Ujxjsi wiiicli so much thou<iiit and 
 care had been expended, was ready to start, March 20, liiOO. 
 "Idle weather was beautiful, "' writes Sver(h'U]), "and we (h-ov(; 
 out thi'oujili the sound, east of Skreia, at a smart pace, taking, 
 when s(.)uth of it, a line dii'ect for South Cat^e." 
 
 On this journe}' in which Sverdrup and losheim traced the 
 west shore of Ellesmerc^ Land to SO^ oO' X., a serious, yet 
 anuisinsj,'. incident occurred. "At certain places oii our way," 
 Avrit(-s ,S\-erdrup, "we came across huge rocks, sonne of which 
 wei-e as big as a cottage, and round tliem the snow had drifted 
 to such a height that we could only just see the to]). ^^dlen 
 we came nearer, we found that, as a rule, the wind had hol- 
 lowed out a large empty space between the drift, and we were 
 often met by a yawning pitfall twelve to eigliteen feet in de])th. 
 ... I .-^liould mentiijn that we were obligiMi t(_) drive above 
 tlie rocks, as l)el(AV ^\•as the open sea. ... It once \vd\)- 
 ])ened that, .iu>t as we were passing a I'ock of this kind, a gap 
 occui'rf^d between my sledge and the one following it. As 
 soon as I became awai'c of this, I ])ulled u]) ; l)Ut almo>t l^eforc 
 I knew wliat was taking place, tlu^ dogs had made their usual 
 frantic rush to catch up, and the sledge, men, and tc^am were 
 preci])itate(l into the hok.^ twelve feet below. A inom^nt 
 aftcrwiU'ds, l)efor(^ anything coiild be done to ])revent it, the 
 next sledge came tearing u]) and fell into the hole, and on the 
 hc{4s {.if number two came a third, v.'hich followe(l their ex- 
 aninle. . . . Tn l!i(.' grav(» lay ])ell-mell three men. ei^'hteen 
 'i()'j,<. and thi'ce sledges with their knids, and l!ie snow w;is 
 hying up fr<jm it in cloud<. Hero and thei'e a sledg(> runner. 
 ()!■ a >fa!-ki:i >ti'a]), was ^ticking out. Then I saw one of the 
 .men f'raw'ling out of the me(l]e-y and pulling him-elf togrther, 
 then anodiei', and another. Thank (loij. liicy wei'e mH alive ! 
 And lli!' diou- '.' d'hey were lyinii' in ;i l)!;ick lie;i]). one team 
 on to]) of t lie ol i;ei'. kickiuu'. howling, and figliting, till we couM 
 hardl\' hear the men's \-oife> for their noise, <o, a})pai'ently,
 
 444 THE (rllEAT WHITE NOUTII 
 
 they, too, were alive. As soon as we had hauled them all up. 
 we set to work to shovel part of the drift away so that we could 
 i\vA% up the loads. The first sledj^'e, which, after much toil, 
 we succeeded in bringing up, strange to say, was whole, nor 
 wa-^ there anything wrong with numljer two, while number 
 three was as intact as the two former. The very astonishing 
 result of this flight through the air was, tlierefore. that not a 
 limb, nor a lashing, nor bit of wood was broken."' 
 
 Wdiile the travellers were in the fi(4d ])ursuing their ])eril- 
 ous and exciting adventures, the Commandant at Bjorneborg 
 was leading a lonely and monotonous life awaiting his chance 
 to annihilate marauding Bruins. His first call t(j arms came 
 .soon after Captain Sverdru]/s departure. Late one night, 
 while half a<Iee]), the ( 'onnnandant, at tliat time without a 
 garrison, thought he heard a faint s(jund in the depot. "I 
 only tui'ned round in the bag,'" he says, "and inwardly cursed 
 IIa.--ers dog-, which were loose again and ransacking the 
 depot. I was on the ])oint (jf falling ash-i-]) (jnce more, when 
 it began to dawn on me tliat my rea-oning had bec'U wrong, 
 for there were no dogs within many miles, and therewith I 
 heard a crash, which seemed to make tlie earth tremble. 
 A moment later T was out (jf tlie bag. had draii^'ed my gun 
 from its covei', and cocked it, for it sudd.ciily occurre(l to me 
 that my guest was a serious one. The firsl thing I did was 
 to liuht llie lamj), after which I began to move away some 
 tin< I had put in front of the door, that niuht for the fir<t time, 
 to kce]) it in place. The sound< still c()ntinuc<l at the dei)ot. 
 but. in mo\'ing t he l;i<t tin, I hajjpeucd to make a <light noi-e. 
 and tlicii e\-('rytliing became ;ts <\\W a- di-itli. I raised the 
 do. ii- ;tri<l i'rc])t out. It wa-^ one o"clock I had lool<ed at my 
 Watch wiicn I lit tli'' lamp', and much darker than \\"a< pleas- 
 ant for t he work before me. 
 
 "I'lie bear, meanwhile, had made it.-ejf (juite at home. In 
 Ol'der to get at one of the blubbei'-ca-e-^, it had thru-t the
 
 SLEDGE JOl'RXEYS 445 
 
 cnipt}' boxes out of its way, and had thrown down one of the 
 dog-food boxes which had been placed on the cases of bhibl)er. 
 The marks of all its claws were clearly visil)le in the tin. The 
 other box was op(»n, and the bear had tasted a coupU^ of rations, 
 but had (^-idently not found them to his liking, for he had spat 
 them out again into the box. It had then very carefully 
 liftetl the tin down on to the snow, and then — also very care- 
 fully — raised the lid of the blubber box. But just as it 
 was going to begin its meal, it had evidently heard my clatter 
 inside tlie hut, and had sat down to listen, with its right paw 
 clasping the edge of the box. It was in this position at an\^ 
 rate that I found it, when I raised myself up, after creeping 
 out. The bear was about fifteen yards away from m(>, and 
 as soon as it saw me rose, large, and fat and hissing; it made 
 the open tin rattle as it put its left paw down on it. It looked 
 just as if it W(M-e thumping tiie table, to show what a fine fellow 
 it was, and reniind(Ml me of one of my friends on l>oar(l — 
 so much so that I lialf unwittingly addressed it in tlie way 
 usual bctwe(Mi us ; a manner, h()wev(>r, hardly fit for i)ublica- 
 tion. Wliether tlu^ bear felt offended at this I know not, but 
 (•(M'tain it is that it got up and walked, growling, with long 
 measured stei)s round the depot. I aimed, and shot it in the 
 shoulder: I could just discern the sights through the darkness." 
 "The bear utter(>d such a loud growl,"' continues tlie 
 Commandant, "that it seemed to make tlie stillness ring. 
 Tli(> fire from my gun had dazzled me, and I could no longer 
 s(M' tlie siglits, and the bear itsf>lf T only saw a< a sha]iele<s 
 m:i<s, which seemed to liavc^ grown most incredibly larger. 
 T!ie other baiT(>l, the small-shot l)ai'rel, which was loaded with a 
 !arg(^ l)all, I firiMl straight into the mass without going through 
 a!i>' such formality as aiming. Tluai I mad(^ a well-ordci'ed 
 reti'eat behand the hut, and ])ut in some fresh cartridges. I 
 do not much b(>licve in hurrying, but I did this in ]es< time 
 than it ta.kes to tell. To nu' u'reat astonishment I did not see
 
 4Uj 
 
 THE CnKAT WHITE SOUTH 
 
 aii\'t liinu' — not tliat I wantcl lo - - ui my ('!)''tny diirinji' tliis 
 ()])('ration. hut as soon a> I \\'a> I't-idy. I hciiaii to pcci' al)out 
 ai'tci' it. ihoiiLiii al fii>t without .-uccc->. At la>t. on Kcndinj^' 
 down, 1 cau^iit si.^lit of a larii'c (iark olijcct a sliort di>tanc(> 
 away, at a -^pot where I knew llicre wa~ no I'ock, — tlii-. of 
 cout'-e. \'A'i-[ Me the heal', hut whether de:id or aH\"e it Was iin- 
 ])o--ihh' to 1(4!. 1 thei'eh)re a(h\'anee(l with miicli e;iution, 
 and iir:-'i a -hot at wliat I -Ujijxj.-ed. to he it- head. On elo-er 
 exaiii!na*!i)n it ])i'o\-('(l to l)e thf other eufl of t!ie lieai' T liad 
 hoiii'oarded : hut a- a zorilocii-t I. of i-our-e. icnew that t!ie 
 hi'ad in ;' rsis nmrH' tn us i-,. a- a ruh-. exae; !y at tlie o|;])o-ile 
 cxi r<']!iity to rh(' after-end of t'i" a.ainiah and at la.-t reah.y 
 suecee'h-(i in 'ii\"iiiL!; it <oine lead w th" riu'ht phice. The hear 
 had,. ]e) I'louht, he'-]i (h'a<l fof -onie ti:;; ■. I'Ut di~e!'(^t ion is 
 thr heif'!' ])ai't of \-ah)Ur. T then reah/ed tliat T had !<ihed 
 niy fif-t hea!' : to say tliat I wa- proud i- nowhere near tiii- 
 !nar!;.'" 
 
 ddie ( 'omin.-uidant \\.'A other vi-il- from h(-a,r- wiiile lead.inu' 
 tin' lier'aii'- hf'- at HjiM'nehor;.!;. and the i^ilhiiir of a ^e.il n-a- 
 af-o adida'd, to lii- aeliiexa^iaent -. ( )ii .h.ii" 2, i;M ,\-r\-a!\ lie h'ft 
 t!;e CN-'h' whta"e |;c iiadi ji-.a-d, ;;h)iic f.ii' ;i!mii-t ,a (jUarter 
 of a year. -"'It wa- not wiiiiout a f^'e'anu' of ~;aliie--," he 
 ■\\'!'i te-, " t !ia t I -an' t lie l;o-t <:!imp-e of t !ie -not a- w'r I'ouU'h'd 
 ihi- -l-^-O ohrf- of Sto;'!!ikap. foi'. al'h<iUirh m\' ii:'^' tlicre h:..d 
 li'- Ml -o'atary an ' iuonotouou- i-noULih, exrcjii on oeea-ions 
 wli-ii n h,,d h...n .•x'r-mely hv-ly. 1 h'h 1 v.-a- h-avin- a 
 hM'M-' N^'hi'i'c ! kiH'W ''\"' ry -*o!!.' and ■'■( yy irr'-uuhsrity i>f i' !■ 
 ;L;riiu;!d a oja'"' ! h.-d laiown in eahii and ihi^ i^hii'y nf -un- 
 -hiii" a- w '!! a- deifn'^ 1 he im^'UlT < a' d;!' -torni-. .\!id thi n, 
 Imm. f ha'' a fi I 'ilia: a- i'' iM-iec and ( jui' 't iii •-- Wi-Vi- at all end. 
 
 A 
 
 T-d Mil hoard dio /dr/a/ Ma\' IT. l!IO() 
 !• \' I'alluia na II in ; ho v.-im i-y a wniini. w;i-
 
 UELEASE FROM Till-: ICE 
 
 44" 
 
 sup])o^(>il to !)(' the ('aus(^ of the ('(MifhijiTatiou. The loss of 
 ]).irci{!iu-i)r('j)ar('(l ka^'aks, a ([iiantity of sj-cis, and wood and 
 otIhm- valuai)l('s were ('(jusiuikmI, hut the chief dan.ucr, \vhicli 
 thrcaicn.cd the safety of the ship and all on board, was tlu^ 
 proximity of the fire to an iron tank containin,;:; fifty i>,'allous 
 (••f >;)i!'it ; s(j o'reat was tlu^ heat of the hre that, thou,ti,h the tank 
 held, the tinning on the outside^ was fonnd melted. 
 
 On .Vugiist 9, aft(n' a summer of successful research, the 
 conditions heing fav(jural;le, ('a})tain .Sverdruj) decided to 
 ])ush W( >tward with the Fniin. •'Tlnvjiigh th(^ ice-free sound 
 all went well," he writes; "but farther out, east (;f the rocks, 
 we entered the ice, and lay there ramming the whole (la\' long. 
 A\ h(aiev(~r we got a chance we forged on full speed ahead ; 
 and when perfoi"C(> we came to a standstill, we backed to get 
 an impetus, and gavc^ another ram." Skirting x\\o coast, th(> 
 rrdiii ])U-hed lier diflicult coiu'se t(_) within about a mile and a 
 half fro!n Xoith Devon, where on Se])tember o, 11)00, the ship 
 w.i- made I'eady for her third winter in the Arctic. ( )n tlie 
 b")i.h. :! >toi']n di>ru[)te(l tlu^ i)ack, and (juick action (jn the |)art 
 of oliicc!--; and men was recpiiretl to ])rei)are the Frain for th(_' 
 openinu' of the ice which suddenly re'eM^ed ]\ov. As fpiickly 
 a- ])o--4ble >]{(' was beariiig tov\-ard Cai'digan Strait, and 
 sl'-ered ihrou.uh iii ea-y waters, finally anchoring in the good 
 ^\■^lTer hiU'boui' of (!aa<efiord. Hie land in the \'icinity of 
 thi- har'ooui' w;i< ridi in game, fauna, and interesting fo--il>. 
 
 ('a])1ain. Sverihui) de-cribes a curious ex]*erience while out 
 huntimr. In a >m:ill x-alley he (l!-co\-i';vd counr:e-< luu'e- 
 tr.icl;-. whi'-h cro<<e(i and j'ecro-.-eij one aiiollier in e\-ery 
 <liri-cii()n. lli!' -now in ])i:!'-e- havinii befi) troMdeii in h;ird v\\\\<. 
 Calliim' hi- teIesco])e 1o 'hi- ;iid, he !n:i !e o:i; what lie JkuI mi-- 
 taI<i'U for a gi'oup of wiiii(> -lone- ;i -liort (li-iai!"e o!'f. to !)(> a 
 group of Arctic luu'c-, bhirty-onr in ninnb.er. e\-i«len[ly at 
 ]'e-i . with on(- ])I;iinl\' ai'tinii a- -futinel. 
 
 AlUujugh Sx'erdruj) ai)i)roaclied with great caution, the
 
 448 TIIK (UlEAT WHITE XOltTII 
 
 hare on guard suddenly took alarm and, starting \\]), ran wildly 
 round her flock, striking her hind l(-gs on the ground till it 
 fairly i-f>oundcd, then setting off at a bi'isk i)ace ov(^r the 
 ridge of a hill, the others following in a long line and ])resently 
 disai)])eai'ing. 
 
 At a short distance two others, evidently not belonging 
 to the (jther lot, remained by themselves. "1 thought/' 
 writes .^verdrup, "it would be intei'e.-ting to go across to them 
 if ])ossil)le, and see what they were about, but realized I must 
 make use of other tactics if I W(juld approach near them. 
 This. I thought, was a fitting moment to im})ersonate a rein- 
 de('r. (_)r s(_)me other kind of big game, and I made a valiant 
 atteni])t to sinuilate their grazing movements backwards and 
 forwards on the sward. . . . IMy tactic> were so successful 
 that, in the end, I was not much more than two or three yards 
 awa\' from them. It was quite touching to see these great 
 innocent Arctic hares sitting only a U-w ])aces off, (juietly 
 gnawing i'(»ots. The only noticf' they ^"ouch^afed nw was 
 an occasi(jnal sniff in my direction. . . . 
 
 ■' I staycil long fraternizing witli the hares down on the grass, 
 and at last we did not mind each other in tin- \'er\' h-ast. 
 They went on with their occupation- (|uite imconcerne<lly : I 
 with mine. I fell -ometliing like Adam in Par.aih^e behire 
 bA'e came, and all tliat ab'our tlie ~er))ent lia] ijiened." 
 
 IIuntitiLi' exi)editions and autumnal >ledge jounii'ys at an 
 end. the winter .-et in with ])l(-nty of work to d.o for e\-ery 
 one on lioard tlie Fr'iiii. Th<' -iiiilhy was c.'ilieij uj)on for 
 eni lie-- labour : tin- taiJ.ngof ob>er\',ai ion-; and the many other 
 dail\' occuj)ation> causeij the loim Arclie niLihl to ))a.-s with 
 c'-- monotiany and ile])res-ion. A \'i-itation fi'oin Avoh'cs 
 adideij excitement to the winter, and wirious methods were 
 trieil for 1 heir ca])t ure. 
 
 1"li'' explofatioii- of 1!)01 ])roved IIfi!iei-g T.and to be an 
 i-latid. -epai'ated by Ifeureka Strait : tlii- wa> exj)l(»red a- far
 
 ''FHAM's" SECOyiJ POLAR EAPEDITIOX 44i) 
 
 as its junction with Groel}- Fjord, Ijut another year roniainod 
 i)».'roro tlio Norwegian standard was carried to 81° 37' X., 
 92° \y., where it was rais(Kl, May 13, 1902, and the outline of 
 coast complected to Aldrich's farthest. 
 
 liaviug made one of the most brilliant records in Arctic; 
 history, the members of the Frcnii's second polar expedition 
 tui-ned toward their native land, and on August 6, 1902, the 
 Frant began her triumphant retreat from the (ireat AMiitc 
 North. 
 
 "Homeward ! What a strange ring in the simple word !" 
 cries Captain Sve^rdrup. "On our long and laborious sl(>dgc 
 journ(n's we had many a time used it when we thought of the 
 Fniin, and a good hon.ie the Fram had been th(>s(> four years, 
 wai'ui and strong and well provided, Init that was in another 
 way. Xow the longing for home coursed tlu'ough our blood, 
 and all the yearning, which we had thrust asidc^ during these 
 long years, broke loose, rang in our ears, and made our hearts 
 beat fa^te]■. Half-forgotten memories and dawning h.oi^es 
 came back again. A sea of thoughts streamed in on us and 
 Tied our tongues in the midst of tlie joy at going home. It 
 was a moment full of promise wlien Ave knew that we were 
 looking for the last time on these mountains and fiords, wliich 
 for so long had been the ol)ject and scene of our en(l(>avor." 
 
 S(>pteml)(r 20, tlie Fram. reached Christiansand, and two 
 d;iys later sh(> dro])])ed anchor for a few hours at haiiggi'unden, 
 off Ilorten. ()uite a fk^et of steam(>rs and sailin<.',-!)ords 
 (^sf'orted her fi'om Stavanger to ( 'hristiania. which was 
 ri^ached '"on a beautiful Sunda.v which recalled to us the day, 
 four years since, wluni we had gone tli(> other way." . . . 
 ''So the Frani's scH'ond polar expedition was at an end.'' 
 concludes ('a])tain HvfM'drup. "An rijiju'oximtite area of one 
 luindre(l thousand scpiare miles had ])een exiilored, and. in 
 the name of the Xoi-wetrian King, taken ])oss(>ssi(Ui of. If the 
 members of the exjXMlition have been able to do anything,
 
 4')0 THE GREAT WUITE SORTlt 
 
 Ihis is ()\viii<2,' in the first instanco to the s;ici'ifi''('s of gonerous 
 ?sor\v(\ii,in.ns ; tluit W(> have not clone nioi-c is, at any rate, 
 not owin^- to want of will." 
 
 'i1u' succ(\'^sful navigation of the lon<i,--sou,i!;ht X()rtln\-('st 
 Passat^c by Captain lloald Annuulscn has been onc^ of the 
 stirrini;' events of tlu^ early twentieth century. Of this hardy 
 Norseinan, and what he aec(jnii)lislie{l, Mr. Alger gives an 
 intei'estiiig aecoinit in Pid)iaitis Magazine: — 
 
 "15orn July Ki, 1S72, at I'orge, in the disti'iet of Sniaalenene, 
 soutluM'n. Xorway, he eonies from an old sea-fai'ing family, 
 and has had nnieh experience^ as a sailor. As nn oilicer he 
 took' ])art in tli(> Belgian South Pole (expedition of 1(S97, on 
 board the lichjica, and it was down in t}K> Antai'c1i(; regions 
 tliat he first planncMl his famous Ai'ctic voyage. On the 
 whalej', (!j<)a, a shij) of only 40 Ions, h(> left ( 'hristiani;i in 
 ]\Ia\', lOOo, with a crew of seven men ; Jind \\\rvv 3-eai's later, 
 in. th(^ summer of P)()(), tlie news was s])read over the world 
 that he had acc()m])lish(Hl ^\■hat no nuui befoi'e him had suc- 
 c(H'd(>d in doing. He had not only sailed through th(> North- 
 west Passiige, but had located the Magnetic Pole and other- 
 wise^ gathercMl much scientific itd'oimntion of tlu^ greatest 
 valu(> in r(\gard to fhes(> lit tle-kn.own i-egions." 
 
 The (•joa was es])eciall\' st !-(>ng1 hened luid I'ehited through- 
 out. She was am])ly ])i-()visi<)ned h)r {\\(' >-e;u-s, and her crew 
 most c;n-efully sel(HM(Ml. Second in conmiand was Lieutenant 
 (iodlVed ll;m,-en of th.e Danish Xavy. l^'ii'st n>:ife Auto Lund 
 of d'i'omso(> had had long years of s''r\-ice in the sealing trad(>. 
 P(>der Pisli'edi, a sei-geant in the Xoi'\V('gi;U! Arni\', was fiist 
 engineer. Ilelmer Hansen, also an (>Apei'ienc(Ml sealer, a 
 good sn()W-^hoer atid hunter, was second male. (lustav 
 Juel, second engiiieei', was to 1a];(> par! in tlie ma.gnetic obsei'- 
 valions, but ill' died on the trip !Vom ])n(Mimonia, in AL'ircii, 
 P,)()l). Adoif LircMroM! sei'ved as cook, ha\ing served in the 
 same (,'apacit\' alioard the Frani.
 
 sciKXTfFic or.siniVATioxs 4.51 
 
 Sailin.a; at midnight, Juiu^ 1(), 190.'-), IVoin ( 'hrir^f iania, Cajx' 
 I''an'\V('ll, Crcculaiul was sighted iWv weeks hder. Securing 
 ten fiu(" dogs at CJodhavcn from Iltn-r Dongaad Jensen, In- 
 s])CH'tor for North (Jre(>nland, tliey ent(n-ed Melville Bay, 
 August 8. On August 15, they came in sight of Dalrymple 
 Ivock; at this i)oint two Scotch whaling ca])tains — Milne 
 and Adams — had de})()sited cc^rtain stores for AnRmds(>n. 
 ddie (ijoa was un(\x]x>ctedly met in ka\'aks l)y jn(Mnl)ers of 
 llu^ Danish Literary Greenland (^xjxHlition, ITerr M.vlius 
 I'^i'iksen and Herr Knut Rasnnissen. An (exchange of (H)ur- 
 t(>sies was followed by the loading of the (rjoa with the pack- 
 ages from l)alryni])le Rock. Ptishing tlu'ough tlu^ lanes, at 
 full steam, they emerged into open water in i')anin l">ay, and 
 later entei-ed Lancaster Sound, anchoring at Becndiey, Au- 
 gust 22. On August 24, th(\v ])ushed into Pch'I Sotmd. The 
 efhciency of tlu^ comi)ass now cf^ascnl, and tliey wcm'c c()mi)(>lled 
 to n.avigate by the stiu's whencn^er they ai)peared through the 
 fog, which ])revailed most of the tim(\ Passing along the 
 west coast of Bootliia Felix, they came to grief by grouriding on 
 Se])tember 1 and were obliged to '^lighten tlu^ sh.i]) by throw- 
 ing overboard the greater pnvt of the (k>ck cargo. On Sat- 
 urday, S(^i)tember 12, ent(M-(Hl Ojoa Harbor " — a small land- 
 locked vovc at the head of Pet(M'sen Ikiy (Iving William 
 Land), and how they reniaincMl for nearly two ycnu's. 
 
 Lnmediatc^ ]ire])arations wove made for wintering, i)ro- 
 \'lsions landed, oliservatories (>r(H'ted, and Amundsen at once 
 ])egan his vaduable sci(Mitific observation's. 
 
 "In ordci' lo eusun^ accuracy," writes Ceneral (Irec^Iy 
 in I'le ('adnrii, l'.)07. "(lie magnetic instruments wer(> in- 
 slaljrd in iemi)orar\' wooden, buildings, built wit'; copi)cr nails, 
 and enlircly I'ree of an.y ii'on, heal, oi' e\"e!i light, excc'pt tlu^ 
 la.mp behind l!ie refleclor. Kei'e da\' and niuhi. for t\V(nty 
 'uoiiihs, \\'('!'c made ])hotogra;>h i-ecoi'ds, and, these wei'e sup- 
 ]>!'Miif'nte>l liy personal eye-i'ead.ings to ,-er\-e ;is needl'u!
 
 4.')- Till-: (;uEAr wiirn-: xoirrii 
 
 checks on iho-c {i!iol(),ii,r;ii)hically obtaincil. The observers 
 in thi- work were clotlied eiitirel\- in deerskin garments, and 
 Ix't'ore enterini^ the l^iildin,!;- wliei'e the niajiiietonietres were 
 iii>1alle(l. carefully (hve>ted theni>el\'es of watches, keys, 
 kni\-e.-, and other rnetalHc objects. The observations wei'e 
 nuulc in winter inider such c()n(Htioiis of cold, monotony, and 
 dai'knes- a> to merit the highest coinniendation f(jr endurance 
 and con-iancy."" And he c(jntinue-. "The A'alue of tlie con- 
 timious observations at (ijoa Harbor ^\■as lariiely increased 
 by >iinilar observation.- in the field. v,-hicli n('cessarih' entaileil 
 <i'\vvi' ex])o<ure and con-ecjuent hai'd>hii)s on the sledg'inij; 
 })arties. In Alarch, VM)\. a ])reliininai'\' journey, made for 
 the ])Ui'])o<e of (■>tabli-hin,u' food de])ot.-. iiiv(dve(l nuich >uf- 
 f(-i'in,u' owinu' to excessive cold, the tem])erature fallimi' to 
 l\r below zei'o. Fahr. The sledge journe\' t (_) the ^ilagnetic 
 Pole it-elf was made 1 »y Anuuid.-(-n and Ivistv(-<lt. stalling 
 April 2. UK)I. with ten doii- and two .-ledger, much diihcult\' 
 re-uii im>- fi'om r(_)UU'h ice. 
 
 ■'l-"i\-e o](-er\'ation >tations wei'c oi'cu|)ied between Tljoa 
 Ihai'boi' and Tasmania, L-land-. whicli ;ir(- a.bout eighty miles 
 directly north of Pio--"> niagnetic jtdlc. Thi< field woik 
 occupied about two niout h-. beiiiLL' -umuiai'lly fini-h<'d at the 
 (■nd of !\ra\', owiiur to lo:-< of fond through ih(- t!iie\'ing 
 Itchnacliii)r\"i!v- of ea-lei'n I>oothia. \A'hile n() definite 
 j'e-ult of the field ()b-er\'at ion< can \'et be u'i\-en, it i- not 
 thought that there lia< b^eeii ;iny deci,|(-d c!iami.c from the 
 m:ii:'neiic cou'lilion- ob-er'\'ed by IJo,-.- in l^of. when the ])ole 
 (if (li'-liiiat inn Wa- in the n(ii:ht ini'hdoil of ( 'a])e Adelaide, 
 7fb n.V \., !i(i- ! !' W." 
 
 < )ii Aoril 1. bid.y I.ieuteiKiiiT TIaii-cn and bb-t \-i'.h . with 
 
 t Wi I -I'-Lv-. iWeK'i' (ioL!,--. ;ind j )rn\-i -ii m - I'or ihl'ee indUth-, 
 ■,i-i;e.! \'!c;i,j-j;,. ;,ii,j iy\\i-v charlimj,' iialf of the mi--imi: coa-t- 
 liu'' I'd iirnei ! .lune "J I . 
 
 Xei'_Lh!iijiir- .wye !i(il l;;e!ving the-.' i-iilaied W'hil e P.l'U.
 
 ACGl'ST 14- J^oti 453 
 
 Frequent visits from Eskimos, and the n(nvs of American fisher- 
 men to the soutli, i)ermitted of letters Imng forwarded by 
 Eskimos. 
 
 On August 14, 190(), all conditions l)eing favoura])le, the 
 Cjd'i weia,hed anchor and proceeded westward in open water, 
 and within a h'W liours had successfully passed through Etta 
 Sound, the narrowest ])lace in the Xorthwc^st Passage, a tor- 
 tuous channel Ix'tween Etta Island and the mainland. The 
 following day they threaded their way through a group of 
 newly discovered islands in shallows that constantly neces- 
 sitated the use of the lead. 
 
 A heavy pack was encountered in A'ictoria Strait, l)ut they 
 continued on their way "through the strtiit between Mctoria 
 Land and the mainland," thence through ''Deas(^ Strait and 
 Coronation Gulf out into Dol])hin and Union straits, and on 
 the moi'uing of August 25 sighted Xelson Head — a tall and 
 im])osing headland." 
 
 Plaving successfully passed from tlie Atlantic side into 
 th(.> Paciiic side, the (ijoa had the good fortune to speak (jn 
 th(> same day the American whaling scliooner, ('lurrle.-< Ilans- 
 son, from San Francisco. A delay oi twenty-four hours was 
 caused by the ice off Cape Bathurst. Xear Bailey Island, 
 several beset whalers were encountered, and the barks 
 Alexander and Bowhead wcvv sighted off Pullen I.-land. 
 
 Cape Sabine was re;vche(l September 2 — but ])rogress 
 was only made to King Point, about thiiiy-five miles east of 
 Ib'r^chel Island, where the 67'>« was forced to put in anotlier 
 Ai'ctic wint(M'. 
 
 ( )n October b''), Amtmdsen, with a sknlge and five dogs. mad(> 
 a journey of five months' duration, c(.)v(M'ing a di>t;mce of 
 fii'teen hundred mil(>s to E;ig](> City, Alaska. This included a 
 two moiuhs' sojoui'n in lui'.i,le ('ity. when all despatches were 
 forw:u'de(l. and mails recei\'ed, I'or himself and other members 
 of the expedition.
 
 40 1: 77//-; tni/'AT Willi 1-: .xoiri'ii 
 
 The foll()\viii.ii' Aii,u,'u>t, tli(> (ijo'i was iVccd. l)ut (jii tli(> 10th 
 of that month she rccciN'cd a hud iiijiu'y to her iJroiJcHcr hy 
 jii'oundiin.ti' on a jjiccc ot' ice, so coiitiuucd her jouniox' ontircly 
 under saih She arri\-ed at Sati I'Vaiicisco, Octoher ]*), with, .-. 
 ricli carii'o of ''thiio,Li,Ta])lii('al, zooloiiic;d. and l)otani('al s]M'( i- 
 nicns, and many furs and ciu'io.-. Th('>c \\'('i'(' frci,<>:ht('d \n 
 ( 'hristhmia, the ('joci talcen cliai'U'e of l)y Adiuiral Lyons, 
 coinmaudanl of the Mai'i- Ishind, Xa\'\'-yai'(h aud Anuuidsen 
 and his com})anious started by rail for home.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 Roljcrt i:. Peary. —The man. — ^ir.-^t vi.^it to the Arctic, 1886.— 
 Otlicr jourii('>-<, I'Syi. — IndciJeruU-nce Jiay. Greenland. — Di.s- 
 cove!'> .MclviUe Land and ileiljjrin Land. — ."Subsequent journeys, 
 IS'Jo - L^!).j. — iyi>covery of famous " L'on Mountain.'" — Summer 
 voya^ties, lsUG-i8!)7. — X(jrth Pole jouiiiey (jf 1898. — Peary seri- 
 ou-ly di-abled by fr(j.-t-bites. — Polar ex])e(lition in S. S. Rooscrdt, 
 I'.IO.VllJUG. — Lhial da.-li for the Pole, liX)8. 
 
 For nearh' a fiuarter of a century the name of Robert 
 K(hviu Peai'v luis been densely identified ^vith Arctic work. 
 Xo man in the ]iistor\' of exploration lias renewed liis attacks 
 U])un the im]jas-;able LarricM's of the (ireat White Xorth with 
 such ])erseveranc(', endurance, and determination. Again 
 and agjin in tlie face of (hsappointments, bodily disablements, 
 failure^, and di:~coura,2.'fqnent- tliat -would liave bla>ted the 
 mo.-t sanguine ho])es of the a\"erage man, he ]ia< ])ersi^tod 
 in his eiideav<)urs, returned to the field of ;iction, fou.giit gal- 
 laiitl}' the dislieai'tening fight, come brick to ]-ecei\'e the 
 polite indilVereiice or enth.usia<tic ]irai-e of his countrymen, 
 lurued his ene;'gic< to raising thr- iiece^ary fund< to renew 
 hi> i'nter])rise, and wlien this Ava- done, faced to the north 
 and ])a— ed again Ix^yond the Arctic Circle. 
 
 lie i- ty])u*ally American. t;il!. lean. wiry, nm-cular. keeii- 
 ('\-ed, alert, ]:)o<iTi\'e. ami po«e<<ed of that indomitablo will 
 A\ii!ch c()n((uei'< or die<. Born in Ci-e-son. ]^'mi-^\d\-ania, 
 .M;iy b, Is.k;. lie ]i;)(l cai'l}- tlie tn^'-fort unc to h)^f hi> fatlier. 
 .■!:id ill- widoAvi'd mdlhei". Avith lici- ]>()y of llu'ec. returned to 
 her r<'!:in\-e- jum] iViei'd-- in Xew hbou'land and le.ade her hiome 
 m I^ortland, Abiinc. Here J^eai'y, tlie lad. grew u]). fond of
 
 4'A') THE (UIKAT WHITE .\<)R'IIl 
 
 the s(';i and llic woods, lo\ing the wild roai' of the ()('(viii as it 
 Iji-at u])oii the rocky coast, or tlu' gentle sunuuer winds 
 wliis])erin<2; amid the nortluu'n pines. 
 
 lie loved to roam, to exi)lor(^, to find adventure, and to lead 
 others to it, and in his schoolboy days he was n(.)ted for his 
 athletic tastes and i)()\\'ei's of endui'ance. At tAventy-one 
 3'ears of age he completed his c(dleg(> life at J^owdoin. gradu- 
 ating siM'ond in a class of iift}'-one, and four years lat(>r had 
 passed tlie examinations which made him Civil Engineer in 
 the United States Xa\"y. From duty in Florida he Avas trans- 
 ferred to th(~ Nicaragua ("anal zone, wherc^ he remained en- 
 gaged in the Intei'ocean Ship-canal Sur\'e\" from LSS4 to 1885. 
 
 He returned untler go\-ernment orders to V\'ashington in 
 the fall of that year, and during a leisure hour, in an old book- 
 store, he accidentally came U])()n a ])a])er on the Inkuid Ice of 
 ( Ireimland. Picmembering the aih'cntures of Dr. Kane which 
 had thi'illed him as a boy, and rending the experiences of 
 Xoi'dcnskj(")ld, JensiMi, and th(^ rc^st, I'eai'y fcdt he nuist know 
 for himself what was the truth of this great mysterious in- 
 tei'ior. 
 
 Thus cai'ly liad the seed of ambition to ex]>lore th(> land of 
 tlu^ mysterious north germina1(Ml in h!< active mind. 
 
 The following year he received ])ei-mission from the D(>]iart- 
 inc-]\\ for lea\'e of absence to make a recouuois^ance of the 
 ('■rcM'iiland ice-ca]i. east of Disco I'ay. 70° nortli la1itud<'. 
 
 .\cc{)in])anied by Christian ^b'lignard. a Dane, and (Mght 
 TK'iti\-e-. I'eai'y (>xamine(l tlu^ coa<1 and fioi'ds. ])(Mietrat(Ml the 
 iiilaiMl ice, ;ind \'i-iled amo!ig othei' interesting s]iots tlie 
 Tos<i:k;iiek (dnciei-. t he b;i-e oi' Xoursoak Fenin>ula. and the 
 f(is-il bed.s of .\tanekei'd!uk. •■Ifei'c," he s;iy<, "I found 
 fr.'igmetits of ti-ees, blaclc ])e1i'ifae1 ions with the grain of the 
 \\(uu\ ;md the 1ex1iii-e of the l>;!rl< <!iowing cl<>ai'l\ . Pieces 
 of -:ind-tone -])lit I'l-idily into -lieet-. between A\'hich A\'el'e to 
 be -cell -li;ir]). clear im])i'e<-i(in- of lai'ge ne1-\'eined !ea\-es.
 
 
 ■ h- 
 
 
 % 
 
 
 1 : 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 ,7* ^ 
 
 M 
 
 g^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 

 
 FIRST VISIT TO Tin: ARCTIC -[■')' 
 
 vvory tiniest vciuU't and iniinito s(MT;ituni of the ec!g(\s dis- 
 tinct MS the lines of ;i steel engraving; long, slender, parallel- 
 vtaned iea\'es and excjuisite feathery forms." 
 
 Full of (Mithusiasin for further adventure in th.e land of 
 desolation, vrherc^ the wild vivid pojjpy flourishes in sheltered 
 nooks, near eternal glaciers; where a lifeless descM't of i)er- 
 pi'tual snow, from five thousand to t(Mi thousand fcoi ahove 
 the level of the sea, extends over ;ui arc^a of some twelve 
 hundred miles in length and five hundred in v.idth, — a 
 ghstcMiing shi'oud, — covering tlu^ miglity ixjcks of ages, the 
 buried sunnnit> of high mountains thousands of feet lielow, 
 — Peary returncMl to the United Stiites and in a nev.-s]);i])er 
 article atti'acted the attention of the Philad(^!])hia Academy 
 of Natural Sciences, which olfered to defra}' part of th(> ex- 
 pense of his second exp(>(!itiom 
 
 Peary left, June G, 1891, in the Kite, and Mitli his ]):irty. 
 including Airs. I^'ar}-; Langdon Cubson, ornithologist a.ud 
 hunter; Di-. Frede-riek A. Cook, surgeon; kavind Astru]), a 
 Xorwegian. ; John AL ^'erhoeff, miueralogist and meteorol- 
 ogist : and Alattlunv Plenson. a coloui'ed man., landed, nt M'Cor- 
 mick Bay in August. An unfortunate accident alxj.'ird tlu^ 
 Kil(\ which resulted in a l)r()]-;en 1(\l>;. causc^d Pe;iry dis-ip- 
 pointn.ient and delay in carrying (_)Ut his autusnn ]~)iaiis. 
 IpAvever, "Red Cliff TTouse" was erected, connnuniciition.s 
 with the nati\'(^s (Established, and sucli ^vork cari'ied_ ;):i as 
 P(>ar>-"s unfortunate condition would ])ermit. In .\]/''il, IM)'2. 
 Peary, being fully I'estored to lundth. left P(mI ( 'iiif lloii-^e ;uul 
 ex])loi'ed liioiefi(>Id Culf; his next mo\-e w;is io e-tabii<h 
 cache- of ])rovi<ions to be used on his sledge joiu'ne}' across 
 th(> ice-ca]). 
 
 Tills jounie\' ^vas imd(M'tak(Mi in Alay ; four <'edg(>-. To wluch 
 were fiarries^ed sixtecMi dogs, canic! tli*" pr!)\'i-ions and 
 e(]ui]-)ment, .\ ■-u])])orting ])art>' a<'\"an('d with I^aj'v to a 
 point a!>out (aie hundred iniles from .M'( ■orniii-k P)a\'. 1'li<^
 
 458 
 
 THE <;nj:AT wiute yonrii 
 
 ox])lorer, ■with one coniijunio!!, Astru]). jirococdod overtliofji'cat 
 ice at ;iu elcxatioiiof about iivc thousand iVet, and by May ?A 
 looked down into Peterniau Fjord. "Here," says Peary, 
 ''we wei'c on the ice-bhit'fs forniint; the limit of the j^wcat ghicier 
 basin, just as we liad b(HMi at Ilunib(»ldt, but a ti'ifle less for- 
 tunate here than, at lluniboldt. I I'ound it nee(\-;sary to 
 deflect some tcMi miles to the easnA'ard, to a\'oid the ine(juali- 
 ties of the ,<i,lacier basin, and the i;-r(\at erc^vasses A\-]iich cut 
 th(^ ic(^-blulfs (Micirclinji; it." 
 
 Peai'y's object now was to make the east coast of (Jn^'u- 
 land, folloA\in<i; the ed^'e of the ice-ca]), beset with cr(^\'ass(\s, 
 sli])])(My ic(\ hummocks, driftin<;- sno^\■ and l'o,<;'s, and \\\v. jour- 
 ney Avas continued until July \. iM)2. Avhen they I'eached 
 inde]K'n(lence ]^ay, 81° 'M' nortli latitude. An ascend of 
 Xavy (iiff re\'eale<l a ma.ii'nificeni ])anorama of ru,u;s.';e(l, 
 majestic, ice-free countr\' to the noi'lh, aiul the broad ex- 
 ])anse of the Juist (ireenland ( )cean. 
 
 Sti'an_a,'e it seemed that in this remote could ry in sh(itere(l 
 nool<s the flowers bloomed: \\\o hum of brcs. the drone of 
 flics, fell u])on the eai'; the snoA\'-bunt inii;, t he sand])ii)er, a 
 ( 'ii'eeriland falcon, and a ])ai!' of I'aAChs ii,reeted the ad\('n- 
 turers. Alusk-ox fed U])<)n th(> ])atches of ,<.ri-(>cn>Avard., and 
 no less 1 han fiA'C fell to Peary"s rifle and sui)i)licil men and doti's 
 A\'it h abundant meat. 
 
 The ret urn journey b.-ick to AT'^ 'ormicl; I'ay, a distance of 
 some four hundr('(| an.d lll'ty miles, was made o\'er th.e ice-c;i]) 
 in t he face of \iolenf storms and AN'ind, t hroui;li drifls ;i,iid foo-, 
 A\-ith dimlul-liefl ])ro\-i-iM!i< ainl l.-iiliiiu' d<i,u"s. 
 
 A joyl'ui meetiuL;; A\i(h Prol'e-'-or IIi'ii])i'!n and ))a!'iy, A\l!o 
 had colli!' iKirt h ;i monlli before wilh i!ie l\il(. look pL'ice 
 on the liihiid lee. ;il the he;id oi M'C'ormick' i'i;i\'. and a 
 h;ii)])\' I'elinn w;i- made to I'ed ('iil'l' House. 
 
 'f'he re-.iiiisof Peai'v'.- second \-oya.u'e to ilic- Arctic, embi'a.c- 
 iiiii the urea! t A\"el\-e"himd i'e( l-mili> Journey, determined the
 
 bfSCOVEHS MELVILLI-: LAM) 4513 
 
 northern (^xtcii.si<jn unci iusiihirity of (Greenland; made the 
 tliscovery of detached ice-free land-masses of less extent to 
 the northward, and esta])lishe(l the rapid convergence of the 
 Greenland shoi'es above the 78th parallel. It also in- 
 cluded the discovery of Melville Land and ITeilprin Land, 
 and the accumulation of most valuable scientific data, 
 b(^sides laying the foundation for Pear\''s compr(4iensive study 
 of \\\o (Ircnndand Highlanders, or native Eskimo. 
 
 Lumevliately upon his return to the United States, Peary 
 devoted his energies to a lecture tour from which he ho|)(Hl 
 to derive the necessary funds to promote a more extended 
 exploration of Northeast Greenland. 
 
 (iranted three years' leave of absence by the Hon. B. F. 
 Trac}', Secretary of the Xavy, tlie North Greenland expedi- 
 tion of 189.3-1894 sailed in tlu; Falcon, June, 1893, and entered 
 th(^ mouth of P)Owdoin Bay, in Inglefield (hilf, August 3. 
 
 Her(^ a house vcas rapidly constructed, stores landed, the 
 Falcon making a ])rief tri]) rd'ter the winter su])ply of mcuit, 
 with a sto]) at Life-Boat Gov(», Vviiei'e a \'isit was made to the 
 site of I'olaris House. A fe^v relics were picked up luvaring 
 the stani]) of the I'nited States Navy-yard at \\'ashington, 
 dat(>d 1805 to 1S70. The 2()th of Atigust, after her return 
 to the stati<jn at Bowdoin Bay, the Falcon stc^amed south, leav- 
 ing the little group of fourteen ])ersons, including, among 
 othei's, Air. and AFrs. I'eary. Mr. S;umiel J. Entrikin, Eivind 
 Astru]), i:)r. Edward E. \'inc(Mit, Air. E. B. Baldwin, Airs. 
 Susan J. Gr<jss, and tlu^ coloured man, Afattiunv Henson. 
 
 On Se])tiMnb(M' 12, in. this far-aw:i>' land, the famous 
 '■ snow b;d)y" wns born, littk; l)lue-e\'cd Afari(^ Ahnighito 
 Pear\', and "bundled dvv]) in soft, warm Arctic furs, and 
 wi-;i])])(m1 in the Stars and Stri])es."' 
 
 In e;ir!y AI;u-c!!, 1894, tlu> last ]:)re|)arations wove completed 
 for a second tweh'e-liundredi-mije jourricy across tlie Gr(H>n- 
 land Ice-cap. On the Gth of the montii, accompanied by
 
 ido 
 
 riiK (iiiEAT niiiri-: yoirrir 
 
 cii'jit iiien, tv.'clvo sledges, and ninety-two dogs, Peary as- 
 cended tlie Inland Ie(\ The advance of such a caravan was 
 slow ;nid heav.w The dogs of the various teams, being unac- 
 customed to on(^ tuiother, were constantly fighting ; the ix'iie- 
 trating cold nij)])e(l with frost-bites the hands an.d feet of his 
 men. so that after an advance of one hundred and thirty-four 
 miles, at an elevati<ni of five thou.sand fivv hundred feet, 
 Peary d(>t(M'mined at the end of thirt(H_^n days to cache 
 sur])lus stores, si'ud back the majoi'ity of his men. ar.d ])ro- 
 ceed with three men alone. l-)Ut the conditions of cold and 
 storms were too adverse for human endurance, the thei'mom- 
 eter reaching as low as — {)0° . The dogs wei'e reduced to a 
 most ])itiable condition, many dying from ex])osur(\ On 
 Ai)ril 10. having advanced onl\' about eighty-five miles, 
 Peaiy decided it \v;is inadvisable to attem])t to ])i'(jceed and 
 ])re])are(l for his return to l)owd(»in P)ay. 
 
 Abmidoning and caching all umiecessary im])edimeiit;i. 
 with o!d\" twent\'-six dogs remaining out of the original mnn- 
 ber, the ])arty reached the station in a much enf(H'bl(>d jumI 
 reduced st:ite. 
 
 '{'hough tem])orarily defeated in tb,(^ main object of his 
 en1er])ri<e, Peary had gleaned much information conc(M'nieg 
 the famous "" Iron Alouidain "" of .Meh'ille ]-)ay. first mentioiUHi 
 by ( 'a])taiii J-Joss in bsb'^, and as part of the ])i-o<i.'i';nnme he had 
 laid doA\'ii t'oi- himself, a \'isit to that intei'c.-ling s])ot was 
 imdei'takeii. On May 27. ]S\)\. Peary localeil this ivmai'k- 
 ;i!ile meteorite. l(>;i\'ing ;i cairn with recoi'ds at a short ihstancc^ 
 f.'o!!i the -pot. 
 
 lu the memitime, Astru]) had made a sucr-e--ful -ledge 
 joi;nie>' and recoiuioi-sance of Meb'iile P)ay. and ciii'efully 
 cliMiiing much oi' it < hitherlo lit t le-known norlhea-tern <hore. 
 
 Tlie la-t of .bily, the F'llco//, with a ])art>' of scieviti-ts 
 ;ibo:irik in eluding, ;imong others, Pro|'c-.<or T. ( '. ( 'Imml jerlin, 
 Pro!(--oi- Win. Libbev, Jr., H. i^. Pridgnum. and Mi's. Pe;u-\-'s
 
 
 
 ■m^^_ wiiirMafc.; 
 
 Cn , ', ./ ,,/• /■. .1, .s',,;-, . ( ,,„ ,, I 
 
 ('aUJX VAULC'i'VA) ()\"KU TlIK \\n\)Y UV M\];\"l\
 
 4t'>2 THE Gin-JAT WlUTi: yoUTII 
 
 brother, Eiriil Dieljitsch, anchored in ]\r(,"orrnick Bay. 
 Alter a sojourn in iKjrtliern water,-, it returned to the United 
 State.-, carrying on board the entire Pear\' part}', witli tlie 
 exception oi tlic indoniitaljle leader and tA\-(.) c(jnipani(jn>, Lee 
 and Henson. Peary's rcr-oiu'ce- were hniited; food and fuel 
 ^\•ere reduced so as to menace future acti\-ities. and the vi.-it 
 of ;i relief slhp in the summer of b^'.i.j depended practically 
 tipon Alr^. Peary's sole exejtions. Xevcrtlielc-s. Peary deter- 
 mined to remain, and, immediately enii>tin<i,' the nati^'es to 
 a-^i^t him, he dr(,'W on the count r\- fui' his >upplies. 
 
 The fall was occupied in the ch;i>e after reind.eer and Arctic 
 hare for luiinun ftjod, and walru- meat f(.)r the diogs ; and 
 later an examination and rehabilitat 'miu <jf the nearer caches 
 of pr(j\'isions left on the Inland Ice. 
 
 The monotonoTis winter ]")a--ed. and a- tlie -jirino- aah'anced 
 the da\' of de])arture a])]jroache(l for t!ie next great journey 
 aero-- the (ireeidand ice. On April 2, Is!*.', the little band, 
 consi>ting of it> intrepid, leader, v.-'iii [,ee and nen>on, four 
 iuiti\-e>, and tlie six slediges with theii' dog teams, started 
 nortliAvard. 
 
 ddie fie]-ce storm< of A\inter had obliterateil the marked 
 cache-: !!i \'am wa-; the iiiiuc' hate neiiJibo'iflauMl -coured in 
 e\'ery dhreetion. -oiiictime- To a '!'-1;i!ie(' of h\'e mi!e< ; ikj 
 sig!!- of the lo»)k''(l-fo]' depots could b'C d.i-c(i\-ei'ed. 
 
 Though hi-kimos de<erieil and turneil baef:, Peaiy still 
 ])U-he(l niu at la-t left with oiily the tA\"o (ninujanioii-, some 
 forty doL!'- and three -ledge-, d'iii' ]iro-^])ee- A\-a- inileed di-- 
 l'i:il. I.ee beeauic di-;!bied by f iM-t -bit <•- : the dog- died: the 
 gaunt fociii of -^ar'.'al ioii lootiK-d on the hoiizou. Ma>' >. 
 h'-e conM prod'cd no fai'thei-, nud av;i- L-ft in cam]), di-tant 
 -onie -iv-tc^n mile- from tlie eo;i-t. A\^l!i!e Peai'y aJid Hen-on 
 ad\"aee(-(i in liie de-])era'e -e;ire'i lor L:;inie. ]-'our d;i\'- and 
 ni'iTt- di'.'iili ''\^ -i;ir\'ai'on fae^o' I'lM^Ui. in ihe fruit!i--< -eareh 
 for fond. Tiion. di--e ipoin; rd, baei, o i eaiiU ». Mid ad'--t)erale
 
 ^^3| 
 
 I 
 
 1, :;*• 
 
 ^ -^ •* ■ 
 
 ? 
 ^ 
 
 
 s. 
 
 ^***^.-^ 
 
 Camp M(Jiii;i< .)i;si-i'
 
 SrMMKR VO VAGUS, lSl>'J-lS'i7 403 
 
 march to Indcpciidcnco i3a}'. Then <1oavii tiie tortuous val- 
 1(»\', across r(.)cks, col)l)k>, and boulcicr, the men plunged on. 
 '"A lew mile.-, beyond the v;dle}', I. sav,' a fresh hare track/' 
 ^^ays Pear\'; "and a few hundred \-ards beyond came upon tlu; 
 hare itself, scjuatting among the rocks a few paces distant. 
 \\'ith th(> sight (_)f the beautiful si)otl('ss little animal, the feel- 
 ing of emptiness in the region of my stomach increased. I 
 called to Alatt, who was S(jme little distance back, to sto]) the 
 dogs and c(_)me uj) with his rifle. lie Vv'as so affected by the 
 pros])(>ct of a good sui)per, his hr<t and second bullets missed 
 the mark, but at the third the v/hite object collapsed into a 
 sha])(>less mass, and on the instant gaunt hungcn- leapt ui)on 
 us like a Avolf upon its prey. . . . It was tlie first full meal 
 we had had >ince the Eskimos left us tliirty-hA-e days ag(j.'' 
 
 Later nmsk-ox fell to th(> hunter's aim, which restored 
 courage ;i,;id strength to tlie (les])erate men. They reached 
 the cairn ^vhich Peary had erecte(l in 1892, and found the 
 papers 1her(> still intact. To linger in the vicinity meant a 
 constaiit consuni]ition of hjod for A\iiich tliey were not ])re- 
 p;ired. Idiere wa- yet the long joui'ney back (jver the d.rcad 
 ice-caj). eight thousand feet abo\-e the level of the sea. ^\'ith 
 nine diog-, and food for seventeen da\'s onl\', they rc^traeed 
 tiieir ste])s, fleeing in forced marches, from that ever present 
 gaunt form, Stai'\-ation, closing u])on their wake. 
 
 One i;y one the faithful d<jgs died h\ the wayside. This 
 n^treat over the fd-eat Ic(> is one of the most de>])er;._te 
 strugu'les in Arctic history. At la-t. .June 25. the tlnce 
 st;tr\"iim'. (■xh:i,n<ted men reaehe*} P,<A\"d<iiii Bay. "At the 
 begimiing of the hist day there wei-e left foiir hn-cuits, sa\-e(l 
 fi'om tli!" half and (juarter rations of the jirecedin.g week-: 
 aiid one I log was still ali\-c>, the sole survi\"or of a pack of 
 foi-ty-t\\o,"' 
 
 "Poor brute!" says Peary, ''the metnory of tl!os(^ famine 
 da\'s upon the ' ( !reat Ice' remained so vividly with him, that
 
 4(')4 THE ailEAT WHITE MOUTH 
 
 for weeks after our return, tliougli weak and afflicted like 
 oui'sel\'(\s, li(i nii<^lit he seen at any time, wlicn not asleep, 
 liidiiig away ev("ry l)it of moat or blubber, and every bone 
 that he could find about the place." 
 
 A few wec^ks of recu])eration fitted the men for the journey 
 honu^, and relief shi]) Kik, in charge of Captain Bartlett, 
 i'e;ic!ied tliem in early August. 
 
 in hSOO and 1897, Peary made two sunnner voyages to tlie 
 Arctic for the })in'pose of transferring to the Unitcnl St;it(\s the 
 largest of tlie three Cape A^ork meteoi'it(\s. On the first tri]) 
 he was succ(^ssfu] in dislodgiiig this ninety-ton mass from tlie 
 ice gri]) of centuries, but was com])elled to leave it until tlic; 
 next season, wIkmi he succc^ssfully had it transferred to the 
 hold of the Hope, the Peary ship of that year, and the woi'ld 
 wonder now )'e})()ses in the AIuscMun of Xatm'al Ilistor}-, Xev\' 
 York City. 
 
 Dui'ing these active years Peary had made warm fricMwls, 
 men who had said to him with the saiu(> confidence^ ex])r(\'^sed 
 \)\ ^dieodore Hooscn'clt, "1 believe in you, Peary," and tlie 
 Peai'y Arctic Club was formcMJ, headed by that generous 
 benefactor, Aforris K. .h^sup, as President, l''rederick P. liyde, 
 \'ice-i'r(>sid(Mit, If(Mn-y\\'. CaUinou, Pre;isure]', aud IlerlxM't 
 h. I)ridgma,n, Secretary, and others 1o l(Mid encotiragemcMit 
 and financial aid. 
 
 I'cary's ambitions had not be(Mi satisfiiMJ by his brilliant 
 ;i."hie\'enients in twice crossing 1 he Creenhmd ice-ca]), and tlu^ 
 hu'c of the Arclic had long !)eck()ned him to try to reach the 
 noi'lhei-nmost cxti'(>niity of tlie earth. 
 
 i lis journey of IS'tS to 1!)()2 undei" the aus])ices of tlu^ Pearly 
 Aictic^ ( 'lub had i'oi' its main ])ui'])ose the attainmeid of th.e 
 Pule itself. His carefully L'lid plan "was to adwance tow;ird 
 the ]\)le by the west coast of (ireeniand, and establisli food 
 ^iMtions, de])ending u\m<\\ pick(Ml I'^kimos for C()()])ei'at ion 
 '.iMi hi- sin;i!! ])a!'1>'. In tlie iinal dash, su])])orting sledges
 
 
 ■^!
 
 FEARV SElUOrSLV DISABLED BY FROST-mTES 405 
 
 would bo sent back as soon as emptied, and the returning 
 explorer, with two companions, would be nu^t by a relief party 
 of Eskimos. 
 
 Air. Harmsworth of London generously gave his yacht, the 
 Windicard, for this (>xpecUtion. Peary started with every 
 prospect of success. The Windward endeavoured to force a 
 l)assag(! into Kennedy Channel, but was obliged to seek 
 shelter and winter quarters at Cape D'Orvillc. In early 
 autumnal journeys Peary determined the continuity of Elles- 
 mere and Crinnell lands, and prepared to make his head- 
 quarters at Fort Conger. In January, 1899, came a sudden 
 and most disheartening set-back to his anil)itious plans. 
 While on this dangerous sledge journey, in a frightful tem- 
 perature that ranged between 51° to 63° below zero, he had 
 both feet badly frozen, and this grave injury, which nearly 
 cost him his life, resulted in the amputation of eight toes ; 
 but not before weeks of suffering had been passed in the 
 melancholy winter darkness at Grecly's old cjuarters. 
 
 "During the following weeks," writes Peary, "our life at 
 Conger was pronouncedly d la Robinson Crusoe. Searching 
 for things in the unbroken darkness of tlie 'Great Xight,' with 
 a tiny flicker of flame in a saucer, was very like seeking a 
 needle in a haystack." At last, on the ISth of Fel:)ruary, in the 
 moonlight, they started l)ack to the ship. LashcHl firmly 
 down, with f(H;t and legs wra]^ped in nuisk-ox skin, P(>ary was 
 dragged, in the cold Arctic night, a distance of two hundred 
 and fifty miles in eleven days. 
 
 Dislieartening weeks of inaction and suff(ning aboard the 
 Wiitdtranl, l)ut partially restored his health ; nevertheless, 
 in April, while still on crutches, he was di'agged on sledges 
 to Fort Conger. This season was ])a'^sed in scicMitific work 
 and map making. Wliile crossing EUesmere Land ic(^-cap 
 in July, at an (4e\'ation of seven thousand feet, Peary dis- 
 covered Cannon Bay. 
 
 2 H
 
 4-t'iti 
 
 TIIK a HEAT WHITE yoitTII 
 
 Otlici' results of Ills iiul('fati<ial)l(' cndcax'ours wcro tlie col- 
 Icctinu' <»l' relics oi the Lady Franklin I'.ay cxjX'dition, which 
 vrcrc >v\\\ home ])}• the \V i ndiranl , the >('xtant and I'cctjrd of 
 the Xai'es expedition were also found and sent hack to he 
 pre-ented t(^ the Lords of the Adniiralt\' (^f (ireat Iji'itjiin. 
 and ])laced in the Museum of the Koyal Xaval (,'olle<ic at 
 ( ireen\\"ich. 
 
 h^ach .-eason a vessel was sent to rireenland to carr}' him 
 su])plies, and hring hack letters. Small ])aities (^f <cie!!ti>t<, 
 university students, and hunters to<»k ad\'anta,u'e of the 
 o])])oi'tunity to >ail north and he left a1 \"arious ])(jints, to he 
 called foi' on the \'es-el's return. 
 
 In l>h'.l. Dr. Lohert Stein of the Liiited States f leolouical 
 Sui'X'ey. Dr. Leo])old Kami of ( Vjrnelh and Mr. Samuel W'ai'm- 
 hath had taken ])a-saji;e in the Peary >u])])ly .-hi]) iJinmi 
 for ex])loration< in Idlesmere Land. 
 
 Li the hd! of h*^l)0. tiie W i iirhnrrfl I'eturned to the rnit-'i 
 State-. lea\'in,i!; Pear\' in hJah, whei'(' he I'emained until the 
 foljow-jiio; ]\Lti'ch, \\-lien he j(juriieyed to l-"ort ('on,u<'r. ami 
 froin thei'c made hi> noilhern da>h in an a1tem])t to reach the 
 Po!'\ The ex)")loi'('i' folioAve(I clo-ely the I'oute laid doAvn hy 
 ])('ain;i.rd and LockA\-ood. and, on May s, heat their reroi-(l : 
 l.i'fr lie |-eached tlie mo-1 northprn i)o!:;t of land to which he 
 ^a.e the na.me of ('a])e Ah)rri- K. .Ie-up, "^-'i' -VJ' X. I'Vom 
 ■!:i- ])oiiit hi< tra\"e| \\-as o\-er the ili-int eii.'ratin,u' ])olar ])ark, 
 a.M ad\"aiice of " rid^e- of hea\"y ice tkrown u]) to keiuLl- of 
 1wenty-fi\-(' to fifty t'cet, (•i'c\-a--e- and hojc- nia-ked : ly -now, 
 the whole in t er-ec1 i-d hy narrow lead- of ojx'u wa*er." Ihi\'- 
 inii' i-each<'d '^'■V'^ ~>\' \.. he t hen rd urnci i t o ( 'ape Morri- Je-uj) 
 and follo\\-ed the cna-t ot' Me|\-il!c Land for -ome di-t;!nce, 
 1 hen !viui'ned <oulh. in I'.tOl . he atti-nii)ted a no' Imt nort iiern 
 JMiinicy. hui found adwince ini]j(K-.-ilile ;ifier reachinu' Lincohi 
 
 ida.wnted h\- failure, hi- next ;iiti-nn)t wa- m.ade in f-'ehiMi-
 
 I'OLAll EXrt:i)ITI<>X IS s. S. " R<JOSEVELr" 407 
 
 ary, 1!)()2, and reached, April 21, 84° 17' N., hut aj^'aiu he was 
 forced l)a('k, after risking his own hfe and that of his com- 
 panions over the worst ice he had ever enc<juntered. AIo- 
 mentarily (hscoui-aged, he wrote at this time : ""llie game is 
 off. Aly dream of sixtecni years is ended. I have made the 
 l)est fight I knew. I believe it has l)een a good one. But 
 I cjuniot accom])lish tlu^ impossil)le." 
 
 After four years of strenuous endeavour in the face of tlie 
 most dishearttniing failure, P(^ary came hack to tlie I'nited 
 Stat(v. took courage once mor(\. rencAved the losing fight, and 
 ]4anned his s(n"entli voyage into the Arctic. 
 
 I'nder \\\i' aus])ices of the Peai'y Ai'ctic (4uh. a model slii]) 
 was Imilt for the sole ])ur])ose of assi-ting Peary in accom- 
 plisliiug the woi'k u])on which he had set his heart, la\'ish(>(l 
 iii-^ fortune, and staked th(^ conhdence of his friends. 44ie 
 re>ult was the building of the Rnoscrvlt, th(^ most modern of 
 ice-fighters. Idie ])lans for the I'otiscrelf allowed a length of 
 our hundr('d and eighty-four by thirty-fiv(> feet beam and 
 sixtiM'n feet draft, headed. She wa-< ]:)rovided with engines 
 cy])able of de\'eloi)ing one thous;ind h()rse-])ower ; sh(> cai'i'ied 
 a light three-masted scliooner rig. Her hull was es])eciall}' 
 desigiK^d to r(\<i<t the terrific ])ressure of the ice-fl(X's. and of 
 such shaj^e to lift easily fi-om tIk^ ti-eaclKM'ous ic(^ cradles in 
 which sill- v\-as ex])ected t(.) test h(>r resisting (lualities. In this 
 si^lendid craft. Peary starte(l north in 1!K)."): and boldly 
 ])lough('d the llnosvrdt farther than any \'essi'l had x'ct ])ene- 
 trate(l, reacliing nearly S2" 'MY north latitude on the noi'th 
 eoa>t of (h'lmt Land. The I'onsprdf wintei'ed at ( "a])e She''i- 
 >lan, and from this high latitude Pcai-y started in l'ebru;<r\', 
 PlOli, for the Pol<\ 1-A'er\ihing seeme(l fa\-ourab!e. ini- 
 proA'cd ef jui])m(Mil . I^skimo as<!<taiice. Avell-laid. cuclies. and 
 Pea!\\' him-elf full of the et<'rnal N'igour. whidi, in s])ite nf 
 ye;u'> of h.ardsliip. ga\'e to his mind and body th(> ela-^ticity 
 of \()uth.
 
 4ns THE GUEAT WHITE XOUTH 
 
 (Jii — across the iutcrminublo (jhstaclcs — on — past one 
 dcLcrcc ainl then aiiollicr, ^\•ith the {■\'('r jjrcscnt ])robl('ni of 
 (•(jltl, storm, rou}j;li ic(\, and (liniiuishiu,u- l'<jo(l, until finally the 
 foi'ccs (jf nature haillcd once a<i'ain the forces oi human 
 strcnii'th. At >7" 0', the uncoin})romi.-imi x'oices of the North 
 ci'ifd out, "'This far shalt th<ju come, and ikj farther." Jiack 
 
 once mor( -tc]) by >tc]i — over hummock, crevasse, and floe, 
 
 over thin and treacher(jtis ice, acro>s tlichiii' lead \vhos(^ thin, 
 undulatiuu' -urface, some two miles in wiilth, barely sup])orted 
 the weiu'lit (^f a man. in hi< frantic rac<' 'with death. 
 
 Ijack once more to the south. ba([;c(l once more in his 
 scheme-, but >terner than ever in the ])ur])Ose to ilie or win 
 "becau-e the tliii!,<i; he ha- >et Ihm.^ejf to d(; is a part (jf his 
 beinii;." ]\'ary returned to the I'liiteil States, the ])lans 
 (jf hi.- ei.L!.ht!i and final journey already maturing in his 
 mind. 
 
 The Hunsirdf was d^ocked for th(> pur]:)Ose of repairs. 
 Funds for thi- la-t journe}' were >Iow in foi't hcomino-. E\-ery 
 ex])e(!ieiit wa- tridl. but, thou,uh a -ub-tantial sum was raisecl, 
 there -ijll lacked money to c();ii])ic^ c the Avork, pr(j\"ision and 
 equip the ex])edition . an.d to ])a\' the ciu'i'ent ex])en-es of the 
 tri]). In the mi(!.-;t of tiie-^c ])er])ii'.\i!!U- ])ro]il."nis, I'eary 
 i'ecei\-c(l aniither ]i[(i\v in tlie !ie\\-,. of the (!,-a?li of Mr. Morris 
 K. .le-iip. hi- Liio-t liberal -u]n)orfer. W'iiij hi- death all 
 -rciiif'd lo-t ; tlic (larlvc-t hour of di-ci )iir;iu'emcnt had come; 
 delay- of moiilh- mi'ieit ])erhap> li;e (|e|;iy of years, or, ])os- 
 .-ibly. the eiit ire ab;: !ii loiiiiiciit of thj- hi-t \"oyau'e — the \'oy- 
 it'Sf of the hii-iMrii ho])c. }'i'ov( d)i;i!l\- the darke-t hour is 
 ju-t bffdfc daA\'n. ;ind the I'eary Arctic ( 'lub. um'er it- p.eAV 
 pr'--!d''iit . ' h'lK^ra.l Thuma- If. HulAard. recci\-f(l a liberal 
 cln'ck. t eii.ii-rei I by Ml'. Zcna- ^ 'v:\ n'. tin' ])a](cr majiufad urer 
 of Ma--;e-h;i-c1 1 -. A'hii'h -'iddiihx' !'c!it ;i-uiidei' the -ombre 
 cloii'b ;i!id -hoA\r(i iipcc uinyf th'ii' -iK'cr linimr. 
 
 lh'h--.'ed ..f ih- M|.e1;il ;,::\i-)v which had been hi-c,,n-1ant
 
 :■' ~ i-!it t'r,,iii it- l''.il!U iiKirlv :ill llic ■■ 1' ir'ii,--- " XmI'I ii-i'ti I'.iini- ^ I' llic W'l -liin 
 li' lii-|.iiiiv : 1 .■ili-i L' wriv h-il at ( 'i!,' M^'Vy'- .l---\\]>: '■', :M (':i|>' TliMni;!- 
 Il:|!>'.-;|-.!: I :!l C::;!- ' ■.JuMilii:!: .", at l'.;,r\'- r';,ri!i. M Xcrtli. IIMKI s7 ,; .-,,,,1 
 
 (i at ill,' X.il'lll I'dic.
 
 FINAL DASH FOR THE POLE, lUOS 
 
 4G9 
 
 com])aniou for mouths, Peary now luirricd his final prepara- 
 tions, and, rej(jieini2; in his gxiod fortune, steamed out of New 
 York fuirfj(nir, July 6, 190.S, in tli(,' <;-allant Hoos^evelt, wiili 
 her ])enants fi\"in<^ bravely to the l;reeze. Peary, now ^rown 
 old in Arctie service, sailed to the Great AMiite Xorth, this 
 time to reach his Roal. 
 
 NORTH* POLE 
 
 Conrt>,;i„f B.nj< 
 
 a. //', 
 
 ./ /•• 
 
 S'nl:, .< Co. 
 
 TllK Kol'TK TAKLX I;Y C'U-M-MA.\J)Klt I'i;AliY IX I'.lUS
 
 CHAPTER XX rv 
 
 Dr. Frr-dcrick A. Cook. — ( 'lainis (lisco\-ci'y of tlic P()l(>. — His rfturn 
 from the Arctic. — PLCCcption by tlic D;un'S. - - .Vnnsvincciiicni of 
 coiKiui'-t of tlic Pole Ijv Peary. — DcnouiUH^^ Dr. Cook. -- D(-lay 
 of Dr. Cook To jiroduce liis data. Acccjjtancc of Pcai'\-'s 
 ciaiins l)y the American Ceoti'rapliical ."-^ociely. — Di'. Cook fiiiallv 
 -ends manu.-cript to Coi)eulia<i-en. -- \'erdict. -- Pri(jr claim t(j 1 lie 
 di.^cuvery of the Xorth Pole, — Xot ])ro\-en. 
 
 TifK annouiicciriout in the Xcir Yarl: Ih mid un Septemlior 
 D ]<)()!), of the (li-covcry of tlic Xorth i^)lc l)y J)r. Frederick 
 .\. Cook, of Broo]vl\'n, X^'cav A ork. u.-toundcd \\\v cixdlizeil 
 A\"orl(!. I'"i)r >onie \'('ars Dr. ( "ookC iiauie had keen a-sociated 
 with Arctic (■nter])ri.-e, hut t(j the majority of the ])iihlic his 
 iiaitic wa- straiiu'c. 
 
 Tn tlie -UJiimor of P)()7. Cook had accoiii])ani('(l Air. Jolm 
 \{. Ih'adley in tliat j;"eutleinaii'> \'ac}it in an excursion after 
 hic' .U'aiiic heyoiui the Arctic ( drcje Later ATr. Piradley -ailed 
 home. lea\dn_ii' Cook with a fail' -u])])ly of ])ro\dsio!i- and 
 efiuiiimetit. and one A\dhte coni])ani( m, a ( iernmn-Amei'ican 
 na.mi'd I'd'ancke. 
 
 Cn Aharidi s. PIO'v. Coolc left Aimooktok. a(*CMm])anicd hy 
 e!e\-en men and one hundrecl and three doe--, A\-itli the a\'oA\-ed 
 |)Mrj)o-e of reaidiiuL!; the l^)le. kd'ancj^e remained at .Vimook- 
 tok. A\'ith instruction- to retm-n to the Dnited Stat(-- in ca-o 
 Conk (lid not ret iH'ii hy Jime. I')()s. 
 
 New- of ('ook'.- (h'])ai'tui'e foj- the X'orth Pole had mean- 
 A'.diile arou-ed intei-i-t in the Dnited Slates. One of the 
 
 1711
 
 nis hi:ti'i:n fuom the arctkj 471 
 
 ohjiM'ts of Coninuiiulcr Peary's ex])e(liti()n of 1908 ^vus "'Tho 
 I'lciicf and llescu(> of Dr. Frederick A. Cook." I'hc^ hig 
 r-upply station at Etah was^ in fact, e>tai)lislied by him mainly 
 for the heneflt of Dr. Cook, ^^llen the Iiooscrelt and Erik 
 ;u'ri\-ed at Annookt(jk on August 7, 1908, Francke was found 
 ill a "pitialde condition, and he begged to })e sent "home." lie 
 \\;i> returiied in the /:/■/'/; (connnanded by Captain Bartlett), 
 and from St. J(jhn"s, Xewfoundland, sent out th(^ news that 
 Co<jk had probably })erished on his way to the J'ole. 
 
 This announcement ai'oused so much interest that earh' in 
 August, 1909, a relief ship left St. Jolm's for the pur])ose of 
 searcliing for Dr. Cook and for carrying provisions to Peary. 
 Xcws tra\'els slowly ''north of oS," and meanwhile Cook had 
 I'eturued. 
 
 In A])ril, 1909, a Avhite man and tw(j Eskimos appeared at 
 t'le relief >tation at Armooktok, the station innnediately north 
 of l^t;di. The tlu'ee were utterly fatigued and wvrv made as 
 comh.)rtabk' as ])ossil)le l)y the men mIioju ('ommander 
 Peary had left behind. A few days later Cook left Annooktok 
 for South ( ireenland, whence he took steamer for ( 'openhagen. 
 
 De-patches from the Shetland I>land-. the la-t of August, 
 1909, proclaimcMl that Dr. Cook luid reached tlu^ Pole in 
 A])i'il, 1908. ( 'o<.)k declared h.is njute to ha\'e been by Smith 
 Soun(h across ]-]ll(Nmere Land, to Xansen Sound ; to Lan.d's 
 Ijid, thence by Ca])e Thomas Hubb;ird. whicl; he left in 
 Abu'cli, ]908,totlie Pole, four hundrcMl and sixt\' miles distant, 
 ^\'hich he chiims to have i-fvicluvl on A])ril 21, 19()S. 
 
 The familiar stoi'\' of his welcome at C()])enh:ig(>n needs not 
 to be retold here. ]\Ieainvhile canu^ a des])[itch to the Xew 
 ] or!: 7 u/ic-^ : — 
 
 ■"I ha\"e the Pole, April (>. Fx])ect arriv(^ ( 'hateau Bay, 
 S(^])temb(M; 7. Secure control wire f'.)r me there a'ld a!'r;uige 
 ex])edite transmission big >torv. ,, ,^ 
 
 ' Pf.AtiY.
 
 472 THE CHEAT white xortii 
 
 At ]^)uttl(' Harlior, ( 'oinmaudcr Peary Ic^arned of Cook's 
 claim to have rcaclK-d the Pole. iUit Peai'\' had carried north- 
 ward a nuiiiner of I^skiiiKj.s, with theii' wi\'e.s and children, 
 and these h(^ had led safel}' hack asain to l']tah. However, 
 the (ireenland winter was a])])r(jachin^', and lie lin<!,-ered at 
 Ktah, oi'ganizing a \\'alrus hunt which su])ijlied his faithful 
 eoni])any with food for the coining 3'ear. Xot till this 
 ])r(j\"i>i(jn was made did he set his face toward the United 
 States. 
 
 A shadow of doui)t, hardly bigger tlian. a num's hand, which 
 was cast hy a part of the scientific W(M'ld at the Doctor's first 
 amiounccnient. soon grew int(j what e\'entiially proved to be 
 a clou(ll)urst. X(_) contr(rversy in the history (jf modern times 
 ha- caused more gf^neral excitement. Soon tlu; two prin- 
 cipals were ])ursuing their separate activities und(M' very dis- 
 similar conditions. Dr. C'ook was lecturing in the United 
 States, facing paeked houses, inter\iewing re])orters, a-^sert- 
 ing his claim--, promising proofs of his a<<(M-tions. Peary 
 ])referred to prc^sent his own claims to the di-covery of the 
 I'ole in terse langiiagc. tlie hi'st announcement ])ubli>he(l in 
 the Xar Yorl: Tii/irs reading: — 
 
 '' S/i/n//ini'// (if Xo'/ifi PdJnr I:\rj)( nilion of Ihc Pcnri/ Arciic 
 Chih: Tlie -teamer li'nnsirHt h'\\ Xew "i'ork on .July 0, lOOS; 
 left Sidney on .Jul\' 17: arri\-ed at ('a])e Vi)rl<, (b-eenland, 
 Augu-t 1: left fitah. ( d'ccniand. .\ugu-t S: a.rri\-ed ("a])e 
 Sheiidan, at ^Ir'ant Land. S('])n-mb('r 1 : A\-iiit ci'ed at ( 'a])e 
 Sheridan, ddie sledge <'\pcdii lun left t\ic I'lmstn II lo'bi'uary 
 lo. 1<.)()!). and -tartcd un- the Xorth. Arrix'cil at ( "ajx' ( 'o- 
 hinibia. Mai'di ! : V);,--cil h'n'iti.-^h '■'"•ord. March 2 : di-Iaycd by 
 o])cii walcr. .Ma.rch 2 and ■'! : hciJ u]) by open A\'atci', Alai'ch 
 1 t(i li : (■rn-~cd {h.- slth ])a.ra_i;('l, Mai-cli 11 : ciu ountercd 
 o])(-n l";id, .Mar'U lo ; rro-;--;',; s.'th ])arallcl. AFarch IS; 
 (■ri,~-r<\ xi'i'h ])ara!l('] Maivii 2-5 : cacduntei'cd <)])cn lead Alardi 
 2-1 : ])a-i-.! X.)i'\\-agia!i ivmi'd .Mai'cli 2:!: pa--cd Palian
 
 COOK SENDS MANUSCRIPT TO COPENHAGEN 473 
 
 record March 24 ; encoiintored o]:>en load j\Iarch 26 ; 
 crossed S7th parallel March 27 ; passed American record 
 Alarch 28; encountered open lead March 28; held up by 
 o])en water March 29 ; crossed 88th parallel April 2 ; crossed 
 8i)th parallel April 4; North Pole April 6 All returning 
 left North Pole April 7 ; reached Cape Columbia April 23 ; 
 arriving on board Roosevelt April 27. The Roosevelt left Cape 
 Sheridan July 18 ; passed Cape Sabine August 8 ; left Cape 
 York August 26 ; arrived at Indian Harbor with all members 
 of the expe(Ution returning in good liealtli, except Professor 
 Poss Cx. ■Marvin, unfortunately drowned April 10, when 
 forty-five miles north of Cape Columbia, returning from 
 86° north latitude in command of the supporting party. 
 
 "Robert E. Peary." 
 
 Immediately upon his return to the United States, Peary 
 joined his family at their summer home in ]\Iaine, offering 
 to submit his proofs at once to any competent body. The 
 National G(H)graphic Society accepting the offer, }-)ro- 
 nounced favourably upon his claims. In the meantime, 
 he took no active part in the trend of affairs, but waited 
 quietly for the dust to settle. 
 
 In November, Dr. Cook cancelled his lecture engagements, 
 iind settk^l down to preparing tlie long-delay(Ml ])roofs to 
 ]){' submitted as ])romised to the University of CopenhagcMi. 
 This accom])lished, he despatched a typewritten copy to the 
 University of Copenhagen, Denmark. After careful (lelil)era- 
 tion. tlie l^niversity of Co]ienhagen rendered its v(M-(lict to 
 the world, Avhich, summarized in two short wortls, left the 
 claini of Dr. Frederick A. Cook to the discovery of the North 
 Pole. April 21, 1908, Not Proven.
 
 471
 
 CONCT.USIO.V 475 
 
 CONCLUSION 
 
 For three and twenty years Rol^ert Edwin Peary has 
 knocked vahantly at the portals of Immortal Fame — that 
 Castle Nowhere — whose glistening walls of eternal ice lie 
 shinnnering in the brilliant sun; whose jewelled towers and 
 minarets catch the glint of sparkling rainbows. 
 
 The Gates at last have opened and the banquet hall is set. 
 Wild Arctic melodies fall grandly upon the ear. The can- 
 nonade of glaciers thunders a salute. About the festive 
 board stand the heroes of tlie past, according to their prece- 
 dence antl rank. 
 
 Hail ! ye Iva Banlsen ! Hail ! ye early Norsemen and ye 
 Danes ! There stand the Cabots, John the father, Sebastian 
 the bold son. There Sir Willoughby and Chancellor; and 
 old Sir Humphrey Gilbert and a host of others. There 
 Barentz, there Behring, — there Henry Hudson and old 
 Baffin. Three hearty cheers for Von Wrangell, Koss and 
 Parry and brave old Sir John Franklin ! Crozier and his 
 men line at attention and salute ! 
 
 Ah ! Elisha Kane, the beauty of a nol)le soul lies written 
 in a gentle face. Francis Hall, thou dreamer, stand forth 
 and welcome^ the arriving guest. German, Austrian, Nor- 
 wegian and Italian, stand thou l)ehind tlic 1)oard, lift liigh 
 the diamond chalice and quaff the limpid draft in honour of the 
 liero, for he comes. 
 
 In one voice, do^\^l the ages goes the cry, "^4// j)r(iise to 
 hi in who cofiquer.s !" and Peary, entering, bows, and takes his 
 seat.
 
 EXPLAXATIOX OF TERMS 
 
 Bay-ice, or young ice, is that wliich is newly formed on the sea, 
 and consists (jf two kinds, common bay-ice and pancake ice; the 
 former occurring in smooth, extensive sheets, and tlie latter in small, 
 circular pieces, with raised edges. 
 
 Beset the situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice. 
 
 A bight is a bay in the outlini; of the ice. 
 
 Blink. A peculiar brightness of the atmosphere, often assuming 
 an archlike form, which is generally perceptible over ice or land 
 co^"er(Ml with snow. The blink of land, as well as that over large 
 quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast. 
 
 Bore. Th(^ operation of " l)oring '' through loose ice consists in 
 entering i^ midcr a press of sail, and forcing the ship through l)y 
 separating the masses. 
 
 Brash-ice is still smaller than drift-ice, and may be considered 
 as the wreck of other kinds of ice. 
 
 Cache. Literally a hiding-place. The places of deposit of provi- 
 sions in Arctic travel are so called. 
 
 A calf is a }Kjrtioii of ice which has been d(>pressed by the same 
 means as ;). hummock is elevated. It is kept down by some larger 
 mass, from beneath which it shows itself on one side. 
 
 Drift-ice cfjusists of ])ieces less than floes, of various shapes and 
 magnitudes. 
 
 Field-ice, or a field of ice, '' is a sheet of ice so extensive that its 
 Imiits cann.oT be disciM-tKHl from the masthead of the ship." 
 
 Fiord. An :ibrupt o])i'nin<T; in the coast lino, ;irlmittins the sea. 
 
 A floe is siiDilar to a field, but smaller, inasnnich a< its extent ran 
 
 be OM'll. 
 
 Glacier. A mass of ice derived from the atmosphere, sometimes 
 aii'iTiinci on 1 he s(>a. 
 
 Heavy and light are t(">rms attached to ice. flistiiiiiuish;ible of its 
 tliicktii'ss, 
 
 A hummock i- a pml ulieranrc raised upon any plane of ice abo\-e 
 
 177
 
 478 GREAT WHITE X OUT 11 
 
 tlio coininrjri \v\v\. It is frcHjUoiitly produced l)y ])r('S<uro, where 
 (jtie piece i- Miueezed upon another, oi'teu >et upon its ed<r(>, and in 
 that po^itifjn cemented l)y the frost. Iliinnnocks are hkewise 
 formed by j)ieces of ice mutually cru>hing each other, the wreck 
 beinu: lu^aped upon (jne or Ijoth of them. To hummocks. |)rinci- 
 pally, the ice i.- indebted for its vai'iety (jf fanciful sliape.-> and its 
 picture>(iue appearance. They occui' in <i-reat number^ in heav\' 
 ])ack.-, on tlie (■d.ires, and occasionall}' in the middle oX field- and 
 iloe>. where they oft(.'U attain the height of thirty feet and ujnvards. 
 
 Ice-belt. A continued marsin of ice. which, in high northern 
 lalimde-. adheres to the c(ki>1 abo\-e the (^I'dinary IcA'cl of the s(-a. 
 
 Iceberg. A lartrc mass of solid ice. gcnei-dly of gn-at height, 
 brcid. !i. liUfl thickue-s. 
 
 Ice-foot. Ice ;iltache(l t(j the land, either in floe.'- or in hea\-y 
 grounded ma-.-i'S lyinir near the shore. 
 
 Ice-hook. A .-mail ice-anchor. 
 
 .V lane or vein i> a narrow channel of wtttf^r in ])acks or other 
 collection- of ici\ 
 
 A lead i- an openiuL", larire or small, ihroiiiih the ice. in which a 
 ve--('l can be aide to make >ome p,rogi'e-s eitlier by -ailinsx. tracking, 
 
 or t ' IWHlLi'. 
 
 Nipped, ddie situation of a .-hip when forcibly ])i'e-.-(nl iiy ice 
 on I lotii -ide-. 
 
 Open-ice. or sailing-ice. i- wliC're th(- jiiece- arr^ -o ,-e]KU'at(/d as to 
 
 adniit df a -hij) -aiHnir coip.'enienily anidnii; tlicni. 
 
 .\ pack i- a bmly of (Irift-icc. of -ucli i:iaiiiiii ude \\\■A^, it- extent 
 i.-> not dii-c( riiible. .\ ])ack i- hjk n \\-\[f\\ the piece- of ir-e. though 
 xcvy near e.acli other, do not u'eiu-rally touch, or rjnyi'l when ihe 
 piece- are ill ci n.riolei e cont aei . 
 
 .\ patch i- :i colleci ion of dcift or bav-ice of a circular or polyirennl 
 fnrm. In ;ioii;i nf iaa'i!:it uile. a p.-iejx corre-])oiid- \\\\\i a field. ;U'.il 
 a P'ceh wi'ha floe. 
 
 Pemmican. Meat cui'ed, ;)iil\'erize(k and mixeil wiin fat. contam- 
 \ws mueli initi'imenl in a -mall comjia-s. 
 
 Rue-raddy. A -lioulder-ln It to drci bv. 
 
 Sconce oiece- are biroken fi-ie-- of a diametii- le-.-: than half a mile ; 
 a :. d. oer;, -.;,,!;,, :'■/, ::o! a bM\-e a i, and fed oi- a few hundred feet .
 
 EXPLANATIOX OF TERMS 470 
 
 Slugde consists of ti stratum of dctHched ice crystals, or of snow, 
 or of the siualhn- fragments of l)rash-ic(\ floating on the surface of 
 the sea. 
 
 A stream is an oblong collection of drift or hay-ice, the ])icces of 
 which are continuous. It is called a scd-slrcdni when it is ex])Osed 
 on one side to the ocean, and affords shelter from the sea to whatever 
 is within it. 
 
 Land-ice ccmsists of drift-ice attached to the shore; or drift-ice 
 which, hy being covered with nuid or gra\'el, appears to have re- 
 cently l)een in contact with the shore; or the flat ice resting on the 
 land, not having the appearance or ele\-ation of icebergs. 
 
 Tide-hole. A v, ell sunk in the ice for the puri^ose of obser\'ing 
 tides. 
 
 A tongue is a point of ice projecting luvirly horizontcdly from a 
 })art that is under water. Ships have sometimes run aground upon 
 tongues of ice. 
 
 Tracking. Towing along a margin of ice. 
 
 Water-sky. A dark aj)pearauce in the sky, indicating " clear 
 wa.ter " in that direction, an.d forming a striking contrast with the 
 '■ l)link " owv land or ice.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Ahru/.zl, Duko of, tlic, 425-430. 
 
 Adatns, Captain, 451. 
 
 Adainrr, voyage of. 105, lOS, 11.3; 
 scooiul v().\-aK(", IDS 200; wiiitcn-s 
 in Rcussclficr Harbour, 202 ; ahan- 
 (lomiioiit, 22S. 
 
 Ailficc, voyage of, 103. 
 
 All)(>rt, Prince of Monaco, 422. 
 
 .Mdrich, Lieutenant, farthest, 325. 
 
 Al<ii. vo.\-aK(> of, 310; IukIi northing, 
 .314; winters at Floe-berg Eeaeh, 
 3b") .324; rejoins the Discuvcri/, 
 32(1. 
 
 Alexai. 340, 351, 300. 
 
 Al(\ra/ulcr. ^•o\-age of, 30. 
 
 AniUer, Dr. .]'. .M.,34n, 349, 352. 307. 
 
 America, v(n-age of, 430, 432, 433. 
 
 Amundsen, Anton, 410. 
 
 Aniunds(Mi, Captain Roald, success- 
 ful navigation of Northwest Pas- 
 sage, 4.50 4.34. 
 
 Andierson, .]ani(>s, 185. 
 
 Andree, Sahunon August, 422-424. 
 
 Aiuh-eief, Lifnitenant, 370. 
 
 Andriz, Cdaes, 17. 
 
 Anequin, 340. 
 
 Anjou. Lieutenant P. F., 25. 
 
 Arch(>r. Lieutenant, surveys Ar(4ier 
 Fiord. 32(). 
 
 Arclic, in conunaTid of Lieutenant 
 li;irtstein, 232. 
 
 A-s.^istancr, in e()nnnand of f'aijtain 
 Onnnancy. 101, lOO, bJO : in coni- 
 niaiid of Sir iulward Belcher, 141, 
 113, 17'>, lOl. 
 
 Astrup, ]-:iviiid, 457, 450. 4()0. 
 
 Austin, Captain 11. T., 104, 120, 122. 
 
 .\u>tro-[Iungarian expedition, 2S0. 
 
 Pjack, Ca.ptain (b, search for Hoss, 
 67 ; exidort's Circat Fish River, 71 ; 
 
 Back's farthest, 72 ; second voy- 
 age, 73 ; hmcl voyage with Frank- 
 hn, 82, 85, 87, 88 ; second land 
 journey with Frankhn, 90. 
 
 Bade, Captain, 424. 
 
 Baffin, 21. 
 
 Baldwin, Evelyn, 425, 430, 432, 459. 
 
 Baldwin-Zicgler expedition, 430-434. 
 
 Balto, the Lapp, 403. 
 
 Baninan, Lieutenant Victor, 433. 
 
 Bardsen, Iva, 2. 
 
 ]5arnes, Captain, of Sen Breeze, 346. 
 
 Bannitz, William, three voyages, 
 13-17. 
 
 Barnard, Lieut(Miant, murdered, 174. 
 
 Barrel:) Jnnior, 93. 
 
 Barry, Cai)tain, 342. 
 
 Bartiett, Captain, 440. 
 
 Baukh-\-, Captain, of the Helen Mar, 
 346. 
 
 Bear, 398-400. 
 
 Beaumont, Lieutenant L. A., ex- 
 plores Cb'cxMiland coast, 326. 
 
 Bedfard, SO. 
 
 B(>ebi>, William M. Jr., 379-380, 
 
 3S.3. 
 ]5e(>chey, Captain, in command of 
 
 Blos.soni, (SO. 
 l^ehring, 21-24. 
 Bel(4ier, Sir Edward, in command of 
 
 sear(4i (expedition, 141, 143, 148; 
 
 directs sledging parties, 174-177 ; 
 
 des(Ttion of the shijjs, 179. 
 Belijia. 430, 432. 
 BiiUrophoiie, 80. 
 Bellot, Lieutenant, French navy, 
 
 123. 127. 129. 131, 133, 136; 
 
 d(>atli of. 169-172. 
 Bender. 393. 
 
 ]5(>nnett, Janu^s Cn)rdon, 345. 
 Berggreu, Dr., 300. 
 
 481
 
 482 
 
 IXT)KX 
 
 Hcsscls, Dr. l^inil, aofompanics Pd- 
 
 Iciri.'i cxpcMlition, 2.34; sIchIkc jour- 
 
 n('\', 2.j('). 
 Beverly, Siirficcm, :V2. 
 liic(lcri)ick, '-i'.rj. 
 HilliiiK^, ('ai)tain, 25. 
 l^inilja, .\., 41s. 
 Jio/Ki Spcraitzd, in conimarul of Sir 
 
 Hugh WiUoii-Iiliy, 5. 
 Bona Ventura, in connnand of 
 
 Richard ('hanc('llr)r, (i. 
 Boothia Felix, G7. 
 JJoothia Peninsula, examined by 
 
 M'C'Untoek, 100. 
 Bore, Lieutenant G., Royal Italian 
 
 n:ivy, :i()4. 
 Hra<lley, .John R., 470. 
 Hi'ainard, 1). L., 373; highest nortli, 
 
 .•■;7(i, 3S,j, 391, 304, 396. 
 Hraskerud, 439, 441. 
 I'.rattelid, 2. 
 
 Hridginaii, 11. L., 440, 400, 404. 
 I^ritish ex|)e<litiori of lS7r), .310. 
 Brown, Captain, in connnand of the 
 
 Dvliohf, 11. 
 lirunsneff. 421. 
 Buehaii, 29 40. 
 Jiufldington, C";i.])tain .^. ()., in coin- 
 
 niaiid Gi'iir/jf Ilcnrn, '!['■'> : sailing 
 
 master of I'oUiriH. 2.") 4 ; wreck c^f 
 
 Polaris. 2.'/); winters Life i'.i>at 
 
 Cove, 201. 
 lounge. Dr. A., 417. 
 JJurrough, .'-^tepheti, (i : diseoxers 
 
 (liamherlin. Professor T. C, 100. 
 ( 'hancellor, Richard, o; r(>aches 
 Bay of St. Xicholas, undertakes 
 visit to Moscow, 0. 
 Cliandler, Hon. \V. Iv, 400. 
 Chipp, Lieutenant C. \\'., executive 
 ofiicer of the .liauticlti, 34."), 34S ; 
 ahandonrnent of J canm Itv, '.'>'>\ ; 
 assigned to second cutter, 3o3 ; 
 lost, 3.37. 
 Christainsen, Hans, Eskimo inter- 
 preter for second (jriim<>ll ex- 
 pedition, 200, 20S, 210, 219. 22S ; 
 accompanies Pabrris exjiedition, 
 2.31 ; adrift ')n th(- ice floe, 2(30, 260. 
 
 'hristensen, L.skimo, 37.3, .39.3. 
 
 'lavering, ( 'aptain, 37. 
 
 "ofhn. Captain Ivlwin, 432. 
 
 'ollins, .Jerome .1., 340, 351; death, 
 360. 
 
 'oUinson, ('aptain Hicliard, in com- 
 mand of Krilrr/>ri.'ic, 103. 
 
 •olw<'ll. Lieutenant ,J. C., 381, 3.S4, 
 ;!95, 400. 
 
 'iinwa\'. Sir Maitin, 421. 
 
 'ook, C.nptain, 2S. 
 
 'ook, Dr. i'reilerick A., 457: claims 
 discovery of th(> Poh', 471-173. 
 
 'o])pinger, 1 )r., .■■i20. 
 
 'ortereals, ( 'aspar, Miguel, \'ascr), 7. 
 
 'I'ane, /ena-. 46s. 
 
 'resswell. Lieutenant, 14N ; carries 
 despatches fi-om McClure to Lng- 
 land, 149. 
 
 strait leadimj; into Kara .^ea and I "Crini-on Cliffs."' first mentioned 
 
 winters at ( 'olotnogro. 7. 
 Butler, Captain, 10. 
 
 Cal.ot, .John, 3 4. 
 
 Caliot, Sehastian, 3 5. 
 
 Cagni, Captain rml)erto, 42('> : high- 
 est north. 42S. 
 
 C;innon. Ilenr\ W., 464. 
 
 ('ai>e B)Ount\-, di-covered l)\- l*,ari-\', 
 42. 
 
 Cnri'iisc, ill cDiiunand of I'hipps, 27. 
 
 (':irl~en, ('.aptain V... iia\igatcs I he 
 Se:i .,f K;il-:i. 26S. 
 
 (■<it<,. xnx-.-i-e (,f, M). 
 
 l>,v ( ';iptain .John Pnss. :!1. 
 " ( 'roker .Mountains," .'^2. 
 Cross, Mrs. Susan .!., 139. 
 Ci'ozier, Captain V. R. M., 1n7. 
 
 Daly, Charles P., 333. 
 
 Daly, .M.arin, 333. 
 
 l);ineidio\\ cr, Lieutenant ,Iohn W. 
 
 316, :;i9, :!3i, ;i(;i. 
 
 I)a\is, .lolm, tiiJ-ee \-o\'ag(>s, 13. 
 h.nrn. hark. 316. 
 I ),i\\ son, LieiitetKUit . ''>70. 
 I)e:i-i' and Simpson. 7-> 7.3. 
 l)e,hick. Dr., 4 10. 
 
 ('aloi'. Lii-utenant Cnmiiiander, of />.//'//«/'. under Sir Humphrey ( nil )ert. 
 
 the Inlrrpid, 10 1. 
 
 10.
 
 INDEX 
 
 483 
 
 Dc LoiiK, IJcutciiant (Jcormo W., in 
 coniiiiand of the JcannvtU- expedi- 
 tion, :-)45 ; new hmcLs, 350 ; al^an- 
 (.ioniiieiit of the ./((inncttc, 351 ; tlie 
 r(>tr(>at, 352 ; Bennett Island, 353 : 
 divides jiartx', 353; inalcinfj; for 
 the Lena delta, 357; lands, 35S ; 
 last days, 3f)0. 
 
 DeshnelT, 22. 
 
 Dieuil, 2. 
 
 Diehitseh, Kmil, 462, 
 
 Dietriehson, ( t. C, 403, 400. 
 
 lYiiiiis. Sir Dudley, 1!). 
 
 DiKcr.nrn, in command of Henr\- 
 lindson, 19: D'lKcovcnj, vo\"a<i:e of, 
 3t(); winters at I])iseovery Har- 
 hour, 314; eonnnunicates with the 
 Ah rt, 324 ; return to Enjj;land, 320. 
 
 Dun, I /,,(,. v<,yaKO of, 33-40. 
 
 Divs^ler. 300. 
 
 Duffy, .teaman, 434. 
 
 Duni)ar, William M., 34G, 350. 
 
 Di/i/ij)liii(i, 370. 
 
 Edilnslonc. 4.5. 
 
 ]-:<i;erton, Lieutenant, 315, 320, 320. 
 
 Kiiiarsfjord, 2. 
 
 lOkhoim, .370. 
 
 l':iison, 3SS :S90-393; death, 40f). 
 
 iMHory, Lieutenant, 390-400. 
 
 ErJi rpris( , in eoniinand of Sir .James 
 Clark Koss, 95, 9,s ; under Captain 
 Hiehard Collinsoii, 103, 100. 
 
 I-.n1rikin. Samuel .!.. 459. 
 
 Enhiis, in command of Sir .John 
 J-"ranklin, 9:; ; last seen, 94. 
 
 Lriksen, -M\ lius, 151 . 
 
 I'a.irholme. lieutenant, 9.3, 
 
 Enlr,,,,, vo\-a<j:(> of, 159, 400. 
 
 F'li.r, in command of Captain .John 
 
 iJoss. 10 1, 12:;. 
 l-'iala, \nthon\-, 4:12-434. 
 I'it/james, 19:5. 
 
 i-orvvlh, ( 'omnia nd<>rC!iarle< C., 101, 
 /•'-//■//'■. con\-oy for Duehe.ss of An- 
 
 JZuulerU!', si . 
 i-'o>lieini. 11! -1 13, 
 Fn.r. ^-,.\■a!:^• .)f. Is-i. 
 I''riii,-i. \an — u'.~ vova'te in the, 410- 
 
 410; four y(>ars' voyage in com- 
 mand of Otto S\'erdrup, 430-449. 
 
 I'Yanaenkol, 422. 
 
 Li'anklin, John, 29 ; early life, 79 ; 
 first land journey, 82 ; land 
 journey of 1<S25, 91-92; govern- 
 ment ser\'ice, 92 ; last journey of 
 Sir .John I'ranklin, 93 ; traces of 
 lost ships, 110-1.S4; record of 
 Franklin expedition, 190 193. 
 
 Franklin, I^ady .Jane, 92 ; ofTers 
 reward for assistance to her hus- 
 band, 102 ; appeal to the United 
 States, 104. 
 
 I'n>deri<-k, 3SS-390, 393. 
 
 Frith inf. 430-434. 
 
 l'"rol)isher, Martin, thre<> voyages, 8. 
 
 I-'rozen Strait of Middh^ton, 47. 
 
 Fury, vo^-age of, 44 -50; abandoned, 
 
 G'lhri'l. in command of ALirtin 
 Frobisher, S. 
 
 Cardinei-, ;>92, 
 
 Ciai'lington, Lieutenant E. A., 3S1, 
 3.si, 387. 
 
 George Ileurij. con\'e\-s Charle-; 
 l-'rancis Hall to Creenland, isO; 
 under Cai)tain l-iuddington, 243. 
 
 Cleorgian Islands, later called Parr\' 
 Islands, discov.Tcd, 43, 
 
 Gerlache, Captain, 430. 
 
 German exijcdition, first, 208; sec- 
 ond, 209; beset, 279; winters, 
 27s, remai4vabl(> journey of Lieu- 
 tenant Payer, 2Sl . 
 
 Ger)>tu)ii(t, in connnand of (\i|jtain 
 Koldewa\-, beset, 279; winti'rs, 
 2sl ; return. 2s5. 
 
 Ciibson, Langdon. 457. 
 
 Giese, Dr., 37(». 
 
 Gilbert. Sir Humphrey, 10-]:;. 
 
 Gilder. \V. IL, 3:U, .340 ::;i4. 
 
 Gjiirt. in command of ('ai»tain lioald 
 Amundsen, 150 451, 
 
 Gladrn. convo\-, 300. 
 
 Gul,],n ni.;'h."UK 
 
 Goodsir, Dr.. 10:i, 122. 
 
 Gon\ Graham, 191 - 194. 
 
 Cnre, Prnfc^s.ir ,). II., 422. 
 
 Gortz, 300.
 
 484 
 
 IXDEX 
 
 (Ircoly, A. W. (Major (Icnoral ' Ha\i'S, Dr. I. I., ar'fompanios scooik 
 
 L. S. Aj, Lieutenant in enniinan<i (irinnell r'xiKTiition. JV-'>. 21'.): i: 
 
 of the Lady l''ranklin 15ay e.xpedi- , coniinaiKl ol' the /'/,//((/ ,S/«/(.v, 2:;.") 
 
 tion, •'571, e.\)^ioration.< in (irinneU death of ,<onnt,ajr. 2.'.i(; ; .sledK' 
 
 Land, '-J?? : fir.st faihire of rehef joiirne\" to " ( )[)en Pohir Sea," 23!) 
 
 t^liip, .'irO ; .-second faihire of rehef journe\- in I'l/nl/n r. 2 12. 
 
 sliij), .'5^2 : Jih.andonnient of J''or't 
 Conner, :;^."; : the retreat, ;iMi ; 
 CajM' Saliine, estahlishe.-s Canii) 
 C'hi\-, .'^^7 : horrors of the winter, 
 .'^S0-.'i!)2 ; saved, :^().j-40(). 
 
 Cireen, sailor, 20. 
 
 (ir< I iilatid, .\-aeht, in coniinaiul of 
 ('ai)tain K<ildewey, 2(i^. 
 
 Griiinell expeditions, first, in eom- 
 mand of He Haven, ]U:,. \V.) : s( e- 
 f)nd, in eoinin.and of Dr. Kane, 
 lit!); winters in Ii'-iisseliier Har- 
 l)oiir. 202: sled;nn'j: trips, 2')7 ; 
 elTeets of exhau.-tion and cold, 21 1 : 
 J )r. K'.ane's journe.w 21."i : illness of 
 Dr. Kane. 21'.): second winter i:i 
 tlie ice, 22^^ pi-i\".ation and suf- 
 feriii'.rs, 22."): ahandoinneiit of 
 Adnnu-r. 22S: d^ath of Ohlsen, 
 22!) : rescue, 2:;(). 
 
 Criiniell, Henr.w 10.1. 
 
 CIriiuiell Land. <li-.covered, 1 1."). 
 
 (iripir. in cDiinii.and of l'arr\-. -1 1 ; 
 in coniniand of f 'laicrintr. .js,. 
 
 HadilinL'ton, Lord, 1)2, 
 
 Hall, f -h.urles I'lvnicis. e,arl\- life. 2 1:; : 
 lir,-t trip t'. .\rctic. di-.'',,vi'rs I'r-.- 
 liislcr ri'lic-;. 211 2.').'> : life wiih 
 LskiuKJ, 2 hi: jnuriie\- to Ixint; 
 W'iiliion Land, 2 Is : lind-- rejj.'- ,if 
 I'Vanklin. 2.")1 : return u, the ( 'nit' d 
 .-^lali-. 2.'):!: N'^rth Polar \i>v:rj>\ 
 ■J.rA, de.ath of Hall, 2."..-,. 
 
 fl'in-'l. -'■rond ' ieiaiiall expediti"!;. 
 
 2);i): wreck of, 271. 
 H:in--n. Hcln.er, !.",(). 
 Han-cn. Lieutenant (indfred. l.'dl. 
 
 H:irl,-r, 
 
 ■nant Cile- 1',., :;r,l. 
 
 Ilari-oin. Lieuteii.ant, .-cut to tl 
 i-li-t of Dr. Kan.. 2:^2 2:) I. 
 
 De H.T.cn, Lieutenant in .■■.mnrit 
 of hi-! < .liniell I Al. edition. I'l.',. 
 
 azen, (ieiiei-al, I'M). lis-L 
 earne, disco\-er,- the Coj^jjerninn 
 Hiver, 2S. 
 
 oln. in coniinaiKi of I'arr.w 41 o(i. 
 cL'eniann. I'r., Captain, in command 
 (,f the J/n„s,,. 2(11). 
 eilieiM_r, Consul .\xel, 4::!ri. 
 eilprin, I'role.-sor, l-'js. 
 ill, I Mar. whaler, :-il(i. 
 enr\ , •■■!!)2, .'ll)!). 
 
 enr\' \d 1. irrants pat(Mit to Cahots, 'A. 
 cMi,-on, ALatthew. 4.-J7. 4.".1», -iC,:',. 
 e],l,urn, .John. N.';, 12:^;. 
 I ra/il. v,,yuur of. !).j. 141). 
 ohson. Lieutenant, makes search 
 for l-'raiiklin relic-. LsfJ, 1!)7. 
 ooil, i;ol,ert, S2, M ; death. M). 
 n,>,. 4(;i. ^ 
 
 oppner. Lieutenant. ."Jl . 
 ortraard. Lieutenant. oOl. M70. 
 uhh:u-d. Ceiaa-al d'h.anas IL, 4(^^. 
 ild.-on, Henr,\'. earl\- \-o\-atres, 1!); 
 l;et vo\aL'e. 20. 
 l\de, I'rederick i:.. 4(iL 
 
 (■>• ('a|.e. lieadland of Alaska, seen 
 
 li\- I'eirentz. Hi. 
 roll .Mountain-. KiO. 
 .^ni,,/. in comniand of f'aptain Int-de- 
 
 lieM. H. \., I \:; \ 17 : in c(,inniand 
 
 el .Mr. Kel.|;e,ly. | Is. 
 
 siih. Ihi. uiidi r Ho." and I'arix". .'iO. 
 -ae!i-ei,. Lieiiiriiiini Iiicrakl. i:;(i, 
 
 i:;!). 1 12. 
 ■-^'■jnri' . ill eoininand ef Lieutenant 
 
 \\"e\preel|t, _' M ', . 
 
 -land of ( 'ape Jireton, seen liV 
 
 ( ahot., :\. 
 -rael, :;i)2. 
 
 \ir-eii, :;(i(i. 
 
 aekniaii. Charle-, '.). 
 
 :.ef -on. I'r. del-iek ( \ . . 4 10. 
 
 :eL-e,i, I. l>., :;oi. 
 ;. -/o 12.',.
 
 IXDEX 
 
 48i 
 
 J< (iiini til', ill cDinniand of Captain T)(> 
 l.min;, :; 1") : hcsct, ;vl7 ; i.s .sunk, o51 ; 
 relics loiiiul, 1()!». 
 
 J,u/inil!r cxpcilition. ;54.j-;:!G8. 
 
 .ii MS, llskiiiio, o7l.'. 
 
 Jensen, llerr DouKaad, 451. 
 
 .lesiui. Mollis K., .1(;4. 
 
 ,ie\\v!l, :i\n. 
 
 .loliainisen, ( 'aptain, cireumnavigatcri 
 
 \i)va Zemhla, L'OS. 
 ,J(.lianne>en. Frederik, 410, 413, 415. 
 ,1 iin nlln. '■] K). 
 
 Kamehatka, 22. 
 
 Kane. Dr. IIHsIki Kent, U. S. N., 105; 
 
 (leseriiies escape from ^\'ollinl];toll 
 
 ('liannek 11-S; new hintlti, 115; 
 
 death, 2.vl. 
 Kami, Di-. Leoj.old, 400. 
 Keemsdirk, .Jaco'i), 10. 
 Kell( n. ( 'aptain Henry, 95. 
 Kell(\\-, Captain of the l)ark Diiwn, 
 
 ;!10. 
 Keiineil_\, Captain in command of 
 
 I'riiirr Ali„rl. 12:n2<.t: journey to 
 
 l''ur,\' 15(>ach, VIS; discover.s ]5eIIot 
 
 Strait. 1 10. 
 Kin-: .\lfred. 2. 
 Kill-, Dr. Richard, 07, 72. 
 A'//i. \-oya,;ivs of. 157, 15.S, 404. 
 K.ielhnan. 1'. II.. :'A)l. 
 Kolde\\e_\, ("a])taiii Karl, in com- 
 
 nituid of (irniKiiiin. 20'.), 271, 2.S1, 
 
 2M. 
 KoloniiezolT. Lieutenant, 41S. 
 Ivoltscliak. Lieutenant, lis 420. 
 
 Liii/i/ Fntiih-liii. in coniniand of Mr. 
 
 l'enn\-, lOM; in conim.and of J ni^k'- 
 
 lield, 1 Is. 
 Lad\' l-'ranlvlin I'.a.v expe(lition. •>71 - 
 
 KM'. 
 Lanford, ('a|itain, in coininand of 
 
 I'nl. i,hrnnis. SO. 
 Lernei. Theodor. 124. 
 Li!il.e.\ . i'rofe-.-^or William, 400. 
 LinMi-om, .\dolf. 150. 
 I.ockwood, Lieutenant ,1. T?., :!72 : 
 
 hi'j:lie>T norlh. :i70, ;;sO : death. 
 
 Lcik, Miciiael. jiatron of l'rol)islier, S. j 24 1 
 
 L(jnir, Cajitain Thomas, 208. 
 Lone;, .^erf^eant, 301, .301, 308, 400. 
 Lonl Wcllhidton, Hudson 13ay Com- 
 
 l)an\- trader. 45. 
 Lowe, ( 'hief Knfrineer, U. S. N., 398. 
 Lund, .\uto, 4.50. 
 Lynn. 3ss 390. 
 Lyon. Lieutenant, 44, 48; in command 
 
 of Cripcr. 59. 
 Lyons, .\dmiral, 454. 
 Lytzen, 40i). 
 
 Machuron, .Vlexis, 42.3. 
 
 Mackenzie, 28. 
 
 M'Clintock, explores coast line of 
 Boothia Peninsula, 100; sledgo 
 journ(>y of 1851, 121 ; in command 
 of Fo.r, 180; finds relics of Frank- 
 lins expedition, liM)-19S. 
 
 Mc("lure, Commander, 10.3; accom- 
 plishes Northwest Pa.s.sa<2;o, 148- 
 108. 
 
 McLeod, (Miiployee of Hudson 15ay 
 Conipan\-, accompanies Cajjtaiu 
 Ha(dv. OS. 
 
 Mair^aard, Christian, 450. 
 
 Mdrinii, rescu(-s the Kane jjarty, 231. 
 
 Markham, CommaiukT Albert H., 
 second in command of the I5ritish 
 expedition of ls75, .311 ; visits 
 Liplioat ( 'o\'e, ;)1.3 ; autumn sledjio 
 journey, 315; Alarkham's fartlnvst, 
 321. 
 
 Mar\'in. Professor Ross C!., 473. 
 
 Mdtlii ii.\ vo\'aKe of, 3. 
 
 Melville, c'eor-e W. (Rear Admiral 
 rnite(l .^tates Xavy), I-]n,i;ineer of 
 the ./idiinillr, 3 0;, 348, ;5.50 ; aban- 
 donment of the ./ca/;/)*/'* . 351; in 
 comni:!nd of wliale boat, 353 ; 
 reaches mouth of Lena Ri\'er, 35s ; 
 meets nati\'es. 359: Xindemann 
 and \'o!-i'-, 302: winter search for 
 L)e Lon-, 303> ; sprint: search, 3()4- 
 ;!0S: to the relief of (4reely. -399- 
 400. 
 
 Melville, RiKht Honourable Viscount, 
 .52. 
 
 "Met.a Incotrnlta." discovered by 
 I'robislier, S; mentioned by Hall,
 
 4Sii 
 
 IXDEX 
 
 Mry.T. ScrL'-ant F.. SiLMial forps. Xnr<.s, L. P.. •*;.",;». ;-!r,l . :i(i2, 304. 
 
 r. S. A., with I'li'm-'s cxiii-ditiun. Xui'th ("aiic, 2. 
 
 ni:i]i..'> iv-i-ni-(l. _'.",(;. Xnrtit Star. '.»'.): winti'i-s in Wnl-tcii- 
 
 Mirhinl. MiiL- in coiiiiiaii:,- with tlic ^ hMJin.- .'-■imikI. lo:; lot: uttarh-(l 
 
 (r'uhri'l. iiii'ln- comniainl of I-'ro- ; tu Sii- ivl'Aard I'ch-hcr's .^iiuadr'jn. 
 
 l.ish-r, 
 
 1 10. in. Ki'.i. 17'.i. 
 
 Michachiia- Way. <(> uaunMl \,y Hiid- , Xm\-:i S'-otia. >U|.|)')~c;l tu !)(■ hind 
 
 >on. I'.i. I iii:~t -'->-n !.y Caijot-, '-i. 
 Mihic. Caiitain. l.'d. 
 
 .MoHn.-Ui, ])r. . \chii!. ■(•.,-!_>(;, 4_'7.4_'s. Ohl-ai. a.-Tonii ^anirs s.T,,nd nrinncll 
 
 .Moore, Captain, in coniinand of ex;, criitiMU. _'!)_'. _'() 1. L'()7. L'l.'^, _'!() ; 
 
 J'l;f: [>r>. dratll of. L'_':i. 
 
 AIo\-cnicnt.- of Captain Austin's C)niinan'-\', ( 'aptain. in connnand of 
 
 siiuadi-on in -priniz of Is.jl, li'l. . l.-.ws/, ;.,,,. lol: Icavrs rcford at 
 
 Alurdock. -ailini: ma-tcr. first Clriu- Cap<' H'll'-y. I'll*. 
 
 ncll expedition. 1(1.1. Of, 1:1. .['hnn. i-i,nv',y. '■',{)(). 
 
 Mu~ein-y C.nipany. e.~taldishcd l)y I Or^'',. halloon. 4_'_'. 
 
 inereliants of London. 4. 
 
 Xah.or>t. Dr. .V. C... 4_'_'. 4-'4. 
 
 Xmirn /Jilirsu,,, Dti, 
 
 (J.-!>orne. .-^lii-rai'd, in rommand f)f 
 j ri'ini' f. 1(1} ; de~cri!)es examina- 
 tion of ]5eeehe\- I.-huid. i\\\d> relies 
 
 I of AV. 'e/.. and T. '■,■<, r. 111. 
 
 Xan-en, F., KH: fir-t eros>inL' of Other. iai-l\- ad\enturer. L'. 
 
 Creenland. 4il.T4ii-^: phm- Xorth Otter. Count 4". W. von. in eoniniand 
 
 Polar \-o\-aL'e. 4(0; adi'ift in the of .<e/ej, J'.O. 
 
 Iiaek. 411 : leave, tile Fr,un. 41_' : 
 
 luLdiest north, 41.'-!: the retre.at, Paland-r. Lieutenant. .'-iOO: coin- 
 
 414: winter on I-'r;UiZ .lo-eph Land. ina:ider of tin- Fey;. .'JUL 
 
 41.'J: meetin'j: with .Jaek-on, 41ti, I'alli-ei-. na\-ieati - ."^i a of Kara. 2<)S. 
 
 4Ji;. 4:-!';. ' /^/'/e'e/v;. \e\-a-e ef. :-i_'7-:-iM() : ^ee.,nd 
 
 Xare.,. ('aptiun ('rei)rL'e S.. i:i com- \"ey;iee. :;:;_' '■-V--',\. 
 
 nianl of the liriti-li exp'-dition F'.arki-r. Ia:id.-d pi'< e.-i~ion- for I'raiik- 
 of 1^7.':., :-;il : \-idts Lif.-hoat < 'o\-e. iin :it ( 'ape lia\-. Mi:;. 
 
 .■■;i:-i: winter- Vl^v-^^u-vs Me:ieh. P.ai'r. Lii-uten:,nt. •■;i.">. :;_':^. 
 
 •'■i_'l : to tie- rehef (if ALu-kliam. .-!_'! 
 Xn^iil.is. .(1. 
 
 Xel-iin. tier. I ef 4'rafalL';ir. _'7. _'^. 
 .V. e' -'... :-l7M. :;s:i. :i-^4. 
 Xewenn:',. U:.vm'.nl L.. :;io. 
 .V. ■ )'..■/.■ //. ■-,/./. :;i.V :;o!, t7ii. 
 Xi:id'-ni:.;u.. >eain:.ii Will. F. < '.. :; lo 
 
 .'lis. :;,Vi: fiii-e.-d ni:ii'e!i. :io,n 
 
 m- it- .Mi'i'.ille. :-;i;_>: a — i-t- ii 
 
 >ear'4i fer I )e I.en-. eill. '■',>'«'<. -'is 
 Xr,rl' n-kj.,ld. M:.r..!i .\. IF n-ii 
 
 l':ii-r\-. Lieutenant W. IF. -!'a : seei 
 \-e.\:i'_'-. -! 1 : pa — e,- 1 id" \\".. win- 
 rew.ard, 4l' : di-ee\ei'-; Parr.\' I.-- 
 Land-. hi : third \-.i\-aee. 4 1 :>\ 
 Xert!, I'ejar v^yaire. .-,_'. 
 
 Paul-.;!. .\.. :;7ii. 
 
 !':e. y. Dr. D.. :;7:i : -ledin- joi;rne\ 
 
 e; \^.., :;oj : ■.■ .>a- 
 
 :;o} :;o~, ; ,, yn-n .,f l'../.;. :;o:) 
 A'e'.,'. '. ■■.//. ta,., :;7F 
 Xorm:U.. :,07. 
 
 Pay.-r. Li. i;f. leuit .Julius, of tin 
 - ■'•' .:: 1 I e'riaan .-x: ..■. lit i' .n. ,!. iurni.,\ 
 ..f, l!>:; : Au-riM-l iuieiaiFin expe- 
 >\\'\' .11. _'s7 : -ie. 11'.- j. iui'n.',\". i".i 1 
 
 ■:i. _"'U: :': ri!v-t. L^luii: r.'turn. _".<7. 
 
 : ■.,..r.,.A- |> -.ry. Mr-.. h"^7. l.".U. 
 
 til- 'F.;/'. I', i.'-;.. I,'..ort Ivhiiii. ..arl;.- life, 1,",,", 
 
 n. .;.■-, h"'.7 : .■\;.|..re- ( dvi^nland ie. 
 '■:i; I, 1-"")^ : ,-umniar\- . if -ee.
 
 lyijEX 
 
 487 
 
 \\-d'-\- icntlnuiil) 
 
 \(i.\-a!zi\ 451): journoy iif 1n!)3, 
 
 sccoiKi jniii'iic\' across ( li'd'uland 
 
 ic(> <'a[j, ■1()(): suiniiicr \'o\'air('s. 
 
 4*i4 : src-iii'cs the faUKMis iiictciiritc, 
 
 4('i4: fir-t :lttcni))t to nai h Pole. 
 
 ■Kil: work at Fort Contrcr, 4<io; 
 
 record of is'.t!), 4(i(i : r("(;or(l VMYl, 
 
 4ti7: rrconl lUOfi. 4(;s : aniiouncc- 
 
 iiicnt of di-covcry of th( Pole, 471 : 
 
 suimiiai'\- of the Xortli Polar IOx!;c- 
 
 ditioii of Peary Arctic C'luh, 472. 
 Peary Aptic Cluh, 404, 407, 40s, 
 
 47_'. 
 
 'der. ltL>. 
 
 •ii'hihnn Islands, discovered by 
 
 Clavei-inu'. -sO. 
 
 'iin\'. ('aptaiii, of whalinti; sliij; 
 
 A'irir,. lOo. 
 
 •t, Arthur, voyage of, 9. 
 eternian. iJr. .A., proniotes first 
 
 (lerniaii expedition. L'OS. 
 eters, Wiliiain ,J.. 4;!-'. 
 eterscn. 'Mi) : death. •'■'.-'O. 
 hit'ps expedition. l'7-2^. 
 riiiiiii.r, in connnand of Injrh-field, 
 
 14s. 
 I'iiii, I^'entenant. 1(17. 
 l'in)nir. in command of Sherard 
 
 O-horne, 141, 
 I'''i':\ in c(jniniand of Captain 
 
 Moore, !».■"). '.H). 14'.). 
 I'"h:rL.<. under (""aptain Hall. l-*o4 ; 
 
 uiider ('ajitain I'udilinL'ton, 2o0 : 
 
 wreck of. 23!); sejiaration of crew, 
 
 2)il. 
 
 ]',,!< I,h: )N 'IS. S(l 
 
 I'n'ihiii:. in command of Lieutenant 
 
 Palander, MOO. 
 I'ordeii. Anne, first wife of Sir .John 
 
 Franklin, s], ()(). 
 
 i'n:-i„,;s. . SI I, 
 
 ■■ i'rima d'ei'i-a A'esta." mainland of 
 North Amei'ica. so named Ia- 
 
 ( 'aO-i:-. :;. 
 
 /'.'■■''. .1 ,'-'.' /■/. ill command of ( 'ap't.ain 
 I'or^Nth. 10! IdC, : in command of 
 K'eniied'/, 12;!, 1 in. 
 
 y ■//.'■- ,,/■ \V,,l.s, trad -r. 4.". sj, !,!. 
 
 Pli\-,\- Pl|I--i i\peli~c; fur pUI-ch:lse of 
 
 Xewf(,und]and. '.). 
 
 Prott'u.s, conveys the Lady F'lanklin 
 ]iay exijedition to I'ort ( 'onjzer, 
 :^71; to th(> relief, ;jM ; .sunk, 3S4, 
 ;is7, .':;07. 
 
 PuUen. Lif'Utenant. 00. 
 
 J'\'t!ieas, early ad\'enturer, 2. 
 
 (^ueen l-lIizaOeth's Fcjreland, dis- 
 
 co\-ered I)\' Froljislier, N. 
 (iuerini, T., 42fi. 42s. 
 
 I'ar( fiorst . in command of Phipps, 27. 
 Piae, F)r. ,lohn. o\'erland journe\-. 7.5- 
 
 7.S : search for F'ranklin. Ftl : finds 
 
 trace-. ]s4. 
 HnijncaHj'iil, 424-. 
 lininhmr. in connnand of Sir .John 
 
 I'raiiklin. !)2. 
 lialeiirh. Sir Walter, 10. 
 Jtasmussen, Knut, 451. 
 Ji'iltlisu/il.-t , under Commander Trol- 
 
 lope. 14s. 
 Pavna. the Laiipj. 4f);5. 
 liawson. Lieutena.nt, .'315, 3Ls, 235, 
 
 :!20. 
 Iiaw Lieutenant. •'370. 
 lied Cliff House. 457. 
 lieid. 122. 
 l\il'Hs(. in command of Lieutenant 
 
 IFirt.-tein. sent to relief of Dr. 
 
 Kane. 2.')2. 
 liisiihiti-. in comnKuid of Captain 
 
 II. T. .\ustin, 104: under r'aptain 
 
 Kellett. 141 : story of the, IsO. 
 H.tri'nituiu. Is2. 
 
 Pdce, .-^erficant. 37-']. .'iss : death. 303. 
 Pdnk. Dr. IF, 400. 
 liistvedt. 452. 
 
 PoOinson, Lieutenant, reaches Cress- 
 well Pa\-. 101. 130. 
 Rnijirs. hurned. 30s. 
 Hans, r, It. 407, 40.!). 
 lioosevelt, The<,dore, 404. 
 Poss, Caption .lohi!, first \-o\-a'_'c. 2!) - 
 
 for .~~i]- .lolm I'l'anklin. 123. 
 
 P<.-s. .Tames Claik. discovers North 
 .Ma'jnetic Pole, (i:{ : in command 
 (if /•,"/-/. /■///•/'.-■. and I n:, st:, I, ,',,'■. in 
 -earch for Sir .John I'ranl^lin. !t5. 
 
 P\-der, Lieutenant, 4.'!7.
 
 488 
 
 INDEX 
 
 SaI)iiio, takes olisrrvations on Pen- 
 dulum Islands, 58. 
 
 Sacheusc, J.jlui, Eskimo, 80. 
 
 .S7. I'(t,r. 24. 
 
 Sari/d, 41.S 421. 
 
 Schalaroff, 25. 
 
 Schci, 442. 
 
 Schilciko, Li(nit('iiant, 418. 
 
 Sclilcy, Winficld Scott (Hear Admi- 
 ral, United States Xavy), ;:!82, :','.),'>, 
 400. 
 
 Scliuetze, \\. 11., ;5r)4-;](;8. 
 
 Schwatka, Li(nitenant I'rederiek, laud 
 journey, ^j.'M ; finds I'rauklin relics, 
 :i:i9 ; finds .M'( "lintock record, ;i40 ; 
 the return, .'-IK). 
 
 Scoresh.N', .57. 
 
 Scott-IIanscji, Lieutenant Rifzurd, 
 410. 
 
 tScd Breeze, .Vnierican ■svhalo l);udv, 
 340. 
 
 Searefi-thrift in command of Stephen 
 Hurrou^h, 0. 
 
 SceherK, 421. 
 
 Sheldon, Koljert, <.)(>. 
 
 Simmons, Herman (ieorj;, 430. 
 
 Simpson aiid Dease, 7.'^ 75. 
 
 tSIaradonl)zo\-, Sawa, 21. 
 
 Sm(-llen, Dr., ;J70. 
 
 Smith, Leio:h, 302. 
 
 Snow, W. P.. 104, 100, 108. 
 
 Sofia, in command of ( 'ount 1'". W. 
 von Otter, 2;)0; hi.Ldi norlhinj:, 
 300. 
 
 "Somerset House," 05. 
 
 SonntaK, 200; de;ith. 230. 
 
 Scp/iin, in command of I'enn.w 
 103. 
 
 Speckman, Sei'jieant, 40. 
 
 Sqiiirnl. HI 12. 
 
 Sta-llin^, .1., 421. 
 
 Steen, Allr-cl, S.. .370. 
 
 Stein. I )r. lioliert, 40(i. 
 
 Sti/I<j /',;/, IT' , in command of the 
 Duke of thr Al.ruzzi, 420 430. 
 
 Stephenson, ( ioMiiie. 22'.t. 
 
 Sti'\Mirt, .Mar'shall .]., 122. 
 
 StriiidOer-, 422. 
 
 Suthrrlaiid, Dr.. 122. 
 
 Svo,id<on. Dr. .lohan, 43s. 
 
 S\-erdrup. i>tto, lo:-; IDs; ('aj-taiu 
 
 of tli(^ Fmm, 410-412 ; second 
 xoy.i'^c in command of Fratii, 43.5; 
 slcd<i:c journey, 441, 443, 447, 
 440. 
 Svdlloir, 10 12. 
 
 TdUxit, 170. 
 
 T(4iits(4iaKof, -Admiral, attemjits to 
 round Spit zOei'Ken in 1704, 25. 
 
 T<ij<llliojf. .\ustro-Hunji:arian expe- 
 dition, 280 2<.)7, 3(i8. 
 
 T,rni Xura, 131. 
 
 l'( rror, in command of C'ai)t,ain I5ack, 
 73 ; in command of Sir .(ohn 
 I'raiddin. 03, 
 
 Lord Wdllmilon, tlie, trader, 45. 
 
 77/c/;.v, vo,\-a.ue of, ■■'>'.),') 100. 
 
 Thi/ra, 403. 
 
 'I'iijress, in command of ('ai)tain 
 liartlett, 2(i0, 3 l(i. 
 
 Tr)ll, Haron I], von, 417, 421. 
 
 4\)rn>ll, Otto, jreoloudst, 208. 
 
 Trantc, l\fistian, lO.''!. 
 
 Trollotx", ( 'ommander. 148. 
 
 'rschiriko\-, ("aptain, 22. 
 
 Tn'soii, Captain ( Icorfje, 255; achift 
 on ice-floe, 202 ; rescue, 2()(). 
 
 Wiloroiis. :>A 1, 312. 
 \'nri„i. 370. 
 \'e<'r, ("cT.-ird de, 10. 
 \'<'jo. \-oya-e of, :'!0:-; .'!()0, 340. 
 \'erhoelT, .lolm .M.. 157. 
 r/r/e;'.7, in command of ('aptain .John 
 i{o.--, 01 : uOandoiicd, 01. 
 
 r;c/,,.r;/, is;p 
 
 r/zV/cr/, 102. 
 
 Vincent, Dr. iOhvard K., 4.50. 
 
 Walter, Dr., 120. 
 
 \\afdliu>s. 5. 
 
 \\\-irml)alh. Samuel, 100. 
 
 Waxall. 21. 
 
 WeHman. Waltcf. 12 1 125. 
 
 \\''\preclil, l.i.utenaiil K.arl, .-:iiU in 
 
 lyOjorn. 2^0, ; in command of ,\us- 
 
 I ro-l i utiL'.'ii'i.an exiiedit ion, 2s7 - 
 
 207, 3(;s. 
 Wilder, Commander frank, :;M , 
 
 Ms.'!. 
 \\illou-lil.\-. Sir Huuli, 5.
 
 iNi)i:x 
 
 489 
 
 WiN.Ii:-<iiyl 410, 40,5, 400. 
 \V(>lil,>^i'nmth, J.icutcnant, .'i70. 
 A\'()l^t('iiholnu'. Sir Jolui, 10. 
 A\'raiiK(41, Admiral ^•()n, l'5-l27. 
 AN'ulfstan, (Mirly adventurer, 2. 
 
 Yantir, voyivjiv. of, ;3!Sl-384. 
 Y'iner, oU3. 
 
 Yoiin<;, Allen, voyape in thi^ Fox, ISO ; 
 f^Iedtie j()urne\', 1!).S ; v()\-a{i;e in 
 l'<utiloni, '.Vll -'VM ; .second voyaf.;o 
 in I'dndiini, .'i'i2-.334. 
 
 Zeno, Xiecolo, S. 
 
 Zieluuni, S. 
 
 Ziegler, ^^•illianl, 430-432.
 
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