BANCROFT LIBRARY o THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA '7i &&C-- CRATER LAKE Nattionad Pa^rk -XV $ I UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION N AT IONAL PARK. Reflections stand out distinctly in water that gleams as though glazed by the sun Looking "Over the Top' Page two - , < An Appreciation o i ("rater Lake National Park By WINSTON CHURCHILL, Author of The Crisis," "Richard Carvel," "The Crossing," etc. Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration T IS not so man> years ago that I left San Francisco with a case of rods, bound foi Crater Lake in Oregon. What I had heard about the place had filled me with awe and expectation, tempered by a little skepticism. 1 was personally conducted by patriotic and hos- pitable Oregonians who met me in sight of the fountains of Klamath, put me in a motor car and sped me northward through great forests and across wide prairies which once, not long since, had been an almost inaccessible wilderness. The immensity of the extinct volcano whither we were bound, that in prehistoric times had strewn the entire countryside with powdered stone, was hard to grasp. It was July. We climbed the wooded slopes to the snows, forged through the melting drifts to the very lip of the crater and suddenly looked down upon a scene celebrated in Indian myth, and unique in all America. Some thousand feet below us lay a bottomless crystal lake, six miles across dotted with black volcanic islands. My delight in the grandeur of this view, it must be confessed, was heightened by the knowledge that the lake was in- habited by large rainbow trout which would rise to the fly. After leaving our bags in one of the comfortable tents which the government provides, and eat- ing a hurried lunch in the big dining room, we took our rods and started down the trail. It is quite safe, but new in the experience of a sportsman from the East; and I took the snow slopes gingerly, put to shame by a twelve-year-old daughter of Oregon who romped down ahead of me, careless of the precipice below. And when at last we were afloat, one recalled the Indian legend that he who attempts to swim in this water is never heard of again. The boat was gliding over nothing. The water was as clear as air. Leaning dizzily over the side of the boat, we saw the walls of the crater going down and down into the bowels of the earth, and rainbow trout gliding below us, apparently, in a medium like air. Above us the walls seemed to reach to the sky itself. But presently, when we had begun to fish, the clouds gathered and shut out the sky, in the midst of the summer afternoon darkness set in, thunder rolled and lightning played. It was a scene comparable only to something imagined by Dante in his Inferno. The rain pelted down, the lake grew white but the fish rose. Trout after trout took the flies, and when the sky cleared our arms were tired from play- ing them. The sun was setting. I made one last cast, near a bleak island, with a brown hackle. It was followed by that indescribable sensation of pure joy when a great fish gurgles on the surface, when the fisherman feels the first frantic tug and hears the singing of the reel. My rod weighed four ounces, and the trout at least eight pounds. He leaped, and leaped again. Twilight came on. For half an hour I played him, reeling him up to the boat only to see him rush away again: it became a question of staying down all night in the crater or leaving him, since at night we could not have traced the trail. Reluctantly I left him. For when I tried to drown him by towing he snapped the leader and was free. We had all the fish we cared to carry up the steep slope. But many times since I have thought of that trout, and I have never abandoned my intention to go back to Crater Lake some day and get him. Page f/iree iiiniiiiiiimiim To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Crater Lake National Park IRATER LAKE National Park is in southwestern Oregon, on the crest of the Cascade Range, sixty miles north of the California line, midway between San Francisco and Portland. It contains 249 square miles. The elevation varies from 5,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level. The Park is a broad and timbered plateau sur- mounted by numerous volcanic peaks, among them Scott Peak, Timber Crater, Desert Cone, Red Cone, Crater Peak and Union Peak. Crater Lake, weird and mysterious, lies in their midst near the center of the Park, and is, as its name implies, a lake in the ex- tinct crater of a volcano. It was not discovered by white men until 1853, and today is recognized as one of the greatest of scenic and most striking of geologic spectacles. All of our great national play- grounds have their distinctive beauties; each is different in great measure in the sublimity and attractiveness of its natural grandeur, but Crater Lake stands alone in this: that all likeness to any familiar landscape here ceases. Other lands have their crater lakes Italy, India and Hawaii and there are some craters in this country that contain miniature lakes; but there is only one really great caldera of this kind in the world only one immense basin apparently formed through the complete melting by intense heat of the entire core of a great volcano, and the falling in and utter disappearance through subterranean caverns of its massive bulk. That perpetual desolation the nightmare of a Dante should follow such a cataclysm would be expected; that aeons of time and the mystical workings of Nature have transformed the devastation to a dream-picture, will be a continual boon to the sightseer. The titanic convulsion that formed this remarkable beauty-spot no human eye witnessed. Geologists have con- cluded that ages ago, in the great chain of volcanic mountain peaks which to- day extends from Washington to Cali- fornia among them Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Jefferson, Three Sisters, Mt. McLoughlin, Mt. Shasta and Lassen Peak there tow- ered one, which has been called Mount Mazama, that may have topped the tallest of its fellows. Judging from the pitch of the remnants of its outer slopes, scientists conclude with reasonable cer- tainty that, if reconstructed, its snow- clad peak would rise from seven to eight thousand feet above its broken rim. Mazama stands today an un- crowned king, shorn of its diadem of Page four The Phantom Ship, which disappears illusively with shif tings of light and shadow burning gold and glittering silver, yet holding within its heart a treasure the rarest in the world a beautiful lake, the deepest of all lakes, with waters the bluest of all blue waters. And this is Crater Lake! Mount Mazama if reconstructed Crater Lake is almost circular, vary- ing from five to six miles in diameter. Its known depth is 2,000 feet and it is believed to be the deepest body of fresh water in the world. Its surface is 6,177 feet above the sea. It has no inlet or outlet, being fed by springs and winter snows; its water escapes by un- derground channels, reappearing as springs in the Klamath region, a few miles away. It is completely girdled by precipitous cliffs and steep talus slopes that fall sharply downward from its rim 2,000 to 600 feet to the water's edge. Closely encircling it rise many high peaks, notably Llao Rock, The Watchman, and Cloud Cap; also Gla- cier, Garfield and Vidae Peaks. The Discovery of Crater Lake Surrounded by canyons, ravines and pinnacled rocks, and belted by a wil- derness of boulder-strewn forests, the region for years was inaccessible, and unexpored except by the more venture- some who were attracted by stories of the Indians of this mystery lake in its fantastic setting. Yet its discovery was accidental; it occurred in 1853 while an exploring party was searching in the Cascade Mountains for the famous Lost Cabin Mine. The mine they did not find, nor has it ever been found, but instead they came upon this beautiful lake in the crater. "Suddenly we came in sight of water," writes J. W. Hillman, the leader of the party. "We were much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes, and did not know but that we had come in sight of and close to Klamath Lake. Not till my mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of the lake did I look down, and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over the edge to death." A dispute arose over the choice of a name, the party dividing between Mysterious Lake and Deep Blue Lake. Page five Motorboating and fishing in the heart of an extinct volcano is novel sport The advocates of Deep Blue Lake won the vote, but in 1 869 a visiting party renamed it Crater Lake, and this by natural right became its title. First View of Crater Lake and Its Brilliant Coloring The first sight of Crater Lake is well- nigh bewildering. Unless looked into from the rim it is invisible. Wonder- ment at the height and steepness of its encircling cliffs succeeds the first as- tonishment; admiration of the loveli- ness of its coloring next enthralls the beholder in the sequence of impres- sions. Its unique beauty lies in no small measure in its coloring, the bril- liance of which if reproduced in paint- ing or print would seem exaggerated and impossible to those who have not seen the reality. Nowhere else is there such an azure. One feels that a glass of its water would show blue as if stained with cobalt, but it is clear as crystal and as pure. The deeper parts are a brilliant ultramarine, shad- ing to turquoise in the shallower reaches, and to light jade green in the few indented coves around the shore. A hundred feet down the glaze of a plate is plainly discernible. The sur- roundings help the brilliance of the blue; the rocks are of metallic hues; the peaks of the rim are often snow cov- ered; the lava gray of the steep scarred walls is mottled and splotched with bright yellows and reds, markings left by volcanic action long ago, and always there is the dark green of the pines and firs and shrubs that grow on these declivities wherever they find root-hold. The waters are usually placid, gleaming as though glazed by the sun, and in this mirror of Nature the reflections stand out with astound- ing distinctness. Of this feature of Crater Lake, Joa- quin Miller wrote: "Fancy a sea of sapphire set about by a compact circle of the grizzly rock of Yosemite. It is great, great; but it takes you days to see how great. It lies 2,000 feet under you, and as it reflects its walls so per- fectly that you cannot tell the wall from the reflection, in the intensely blue water, you have a continuous un- broken circular wall of twenty-four miles to contemplate at a glance, all of which lies 2,000 feet, and seems to lie 4.000 feet, below. Yet so bright, so intensely blue is the lake that it seems at times, from some points of view, to lift right in your face." Page 8 i X Wizard Island A crater within a crater The Legend of the Indians According to the legend of the Kla- maths and Modocs the mystic land of Gaywas was the domain of the power- ful demon Llao, whose throne was on Llao Rock. His warriors were gigan- tic crawfish which swarmed the lake, and with their great claws seized all who dared to appear on the cliffs above. The spirit chieftain Skell, of the neighboring Klamath Marshes, waged bitter war against Llao, but Skell eventually was captured, and his heart, torn from his body, was given by Llao to his minions who used it as a ball, hurling it from cliff to cliff with their claws. One of Skell's watchful eagles sud- denly swooped down and caught the heart in mid-air, passing it to a fleet- footed antelope, which carried it to safety. Then miraculously the body of Skell grew about his heart, and he again waged war against his enemy. He captured Llao and upon the highest cliff cut his body into quarters, which he cast into ths lake where they were eaten by Llao's monsters under the be- lief that it was Skell's body. But when Llao's head was thrown in they recog- nized it and would not eat it. So Llao's head still lies in the lake and white men call it Wizard Island, one of the small islands that rise from its depths today. The Indians, even today, look upon the face of Crater Lake with uneasiness and awe. Wizard Island The geological history of Wizard Island is fully as remarkable as that ascribed to it by the Indian legend. It was built up from the floor of Mount Mazama's crater by expiring volcanic forces, and is today a perfectly pre- served cinder zone rising 800 feet above the surface of the lake. It lies close to the cliffs on the western shore of the lake, and its ap- pearance, when looked down upon from the rim, is one of the curious sights that fill the beholder with wonder. Soundings show that several other peaks of like nature rise from great depths in the lake but do not come within some hundred feet of the surface, forming a submerged range of miniature crater mountains. A trail has been built to the edge of Wizard Island's crater, which is 500 feet across the top and 100 feet deep; a trail also leads to the bottom. The western half of Wizard Island is a rough lava bed, and in one of its hollows is a dark pool known as the Witch's Cauldron. Thus Wiz- ard Island is doubly remarkable, being in fact a crater within a crater and containing a pool within a lake. Skell Channel sep- arates Wizard Island from the mainland. The lake's superb reflections are seen to fine ad- vantage from the island. The Phantom Ship The picturesque Phantom Ship lies near the southern shore of the lake a few rods from the base of Dutton Cliff. It is a high Page seven a of craggy up-thrust of curiously sculptured lava; a mass of bronze and yellow spires and tur- rets showing almost a goblin fantasy of con- struction. At a distance its outline resembles a sailing ship hence its name. The illusion at dusk or in the moonlight is striking. Ap- proaching it in certain slants of light the Phantom Ship, when seen against the cor- rugated background of Dutton Cliff, sud- denly disappears and is exceedingly difficult to again "pick up" a phantom ship indeed, in which the Ancient Mariner might well delight. Trail from Crater Lake Lodge to Eagle Cove A new trail of very easy grade has been constructed, leading from the rim at Crater Lake Lodge to the water at Eagle Cove, a descent of about 1,000 feet and a little over a mile in distance. Horses and burros can be used if desired, but the low grading of the trail makes the walk delightful, the acces- sibility of the lake adding greatly to the enjoyment of visitors. This charming walk, zigzagging in easy stretches down the heavily timbered slope, contrasts strangely with the belief expressed by the party of explorers who discovered the lake, that "its shore-line would never be touched by the foot of man." But when you consider that an eighteen-foot launch crossing the lake is harder to "spot" than an aeroplane flying 3,000 feet over- head, and that a rowboat is undiscernible. some idea may be had of the beliefs and disbeliefs that Crater Lake readily suggests. Unusual Fishing; Motorboats and Rowboat* The cold and crystal-clear water of Crater Lake originally contained no fish of any kind except a species of small crawfish. In 1888, Mr. William G. Steel, now U. S. Commissioner for the Park, was the first to stock the waters with trout, but no fish were seen in the lake for twelve years; then a few were taken, one measuring 30 inches. Since then trout of the gamiest have been caught in ever-increasing numbers; preferably by fly- casting from vantage points along the shore, and also by trolling with spoon from row- boats. Fish weighing five and ten pounds are frequently caught. In Crater Lake, five fish per person a day, and in all other waters in the park twenty fish per person, is the limit. There is good fishing in Anna Creek below Dewie Falls, as well as in neighboring streams. The fishing season is from July 1st to September 30th, unless otherwise ordered by the Superintend- ent of the Park. No license is required. Launch Trips A Cruise Around the Lake At Eagle Cove, motorboats and rowloats are provided for boating or fishing parties; guides are also available for those who desire them. Trips to Wizard Island are made by launch on regular schedules daily, and special trips can be arranged for, by the hour, skirting the Phantom Ship and nearby cliffs. The striking features of the crater's rim can best be seen by making a circuit of the lake along its edge. It reveals in a thousand changes the twisted and contorted lava for- mations, and is a moving picture of twenty- five miles of nature's wierdest film. This close-up view of the aftermath of Mazama will never be forgotten. From Eagle Cove the launch heads east, rounding Eagle Point, with Garfield Peak towering high overhead; then crosses Chaski Bay, where Vidae Cliff rises 2,000 feet above, lust beyond, Dutton Cliff looks from its dizzv height on the Phantom Ship, the launch P a 69 eight IPLi ircling shores skirting its sculptured sides \vith its maze of lava rigging. Kerr Notch, just beyond Dut- ton Cliff, on Danger Bay, is the lowest point on the crater rim, 600 feet above the water. Sentinel Rock is the next peak outstanding on the wall above, and then follows Cloud Cap, 2,070 feet above the shore. Skell Head, suggesting Indian legends, appears on the southern point of Grotto Cove, where is seen The Wineglass, high on its northern cliff, a strange rock-slide shaped like a huge goblet and tinted as with winestain. Round Top, the Palisades and Rugged Crest are passed along the northeast shore, and below Rugged Crest is Cleetwood Cove, where the last great lava flow occurred. But what strange sights have been un- folded in this half-circuit of the lake! Where can their like be seen? Contorted, twisted shapes the deformity of nature in its every phase. Dark caverns piercing flame- scorched walls that over-hang in jagged masses streaked with charred reds and sul- phur-yellows; gorges packed with winter snows that gleam like diamonds in jet set- tings snows unmelted since their fall, with solid ice foundations, for sunshine has never reached their rock-bound depths. And all around them is the bright green glaze of needled pine boughs, drooping and waving in the breeze from trunks that slant at every angle the growth of centuries. Surely Nature, to sooth Mazama's wrath, has beauti- fied its scars with dressings most sublime. Rounding Pumice Point the launch glides into Steel Bay and then skirts Llao Rock, one of the most striking summits on the rim. Just north of Llao Rock is a mile of desolation, The Devil's Backbone, carved and ridged and lacerated as though by the whips of demons. Eagles soar and pelicans flap from rock to rock, and over all shines the brilliant sum- mer sunshine from an azure sky that is re- flected and thrown back from Crater Lake's profound depths in an ultra-blue that chal- lenges the heavens. Approaching Skell Channel, Glacier Peak looms high above the rim and The Watchman rears over Wizard Island's cinder cone surrounded by its arm- shaped lava flows and rising like an octopus from the waters. The high-pitched roofs and gray walls of Crater Lake Lodge appear as a dot above, as the launch heads for Eagle Cove, and one of the most singular and spec- tacular of boat trips is ended. The Rim Road A Skyline Boulevard The Rim Road entirely encircles Crater Lake a distance of 35 miles, winding around the base of the chain of peaks and crags that hedge its outer slopes; it is unique among skyline drives. From Cloud Cap on the east- ern shore to The Watchman on the western side of the lake, a distance of 2 I miles, it is in good condition. The remaining 1 4 miles connecting Cloud Cap with The Watchman, around the northern end of the lake, is being improved and surfaced. This work is pro- gressing rapidly and the expectation is that the road will be open, except possibly for short periods, the present year. In this cir- cular tour the vistas of the lake are every- where superb and the surrounding mountain views are seen to excellent advantage. The Pinnacles Sand Creek Canyon The Pinnacles are reached by following the Rim Road from Crater Lake Lodge for about ten miles, thence three miles down Sand Creek Canycn. Here stand a jumble of giant monoliths crowding the canyon sides, carved by the winds and the rains of centuries into fan- P a g e nine Crater Lake Lodge stands near the rim and overlooking the Lake. tastic forms. There are hundreds of these sharp pointed figures, some of them over 100 feet in height, rising like the wraiths of a forest turned to stone. By moonlight their gray ghost-like appearance borders on the uncanny. Dewie Canyon and Garden of the Gods From Anna Spring Camp, five miles south of Crater Lake Lodge, the road leads east- ward a few miles along the northern wall of Dewie Canyon, a timbered gorge cut out of the solid rock, its sides a silent testimony of its violent formation. At the head of the canyon are Dewie Falls, foaming cataracts which give the canyon its name, Dewie being an Indian word signifying falling waters. And here lies another Garden of the Gods, with its picturesque crags and towering pines, and meadows set about with paint brush, lupines and anemones. Anna Creek Canyon From twelve to fifteen miles south of The Lodge, on the Fort Klamath Road, the drive for eight miles overlooks Anna Creek Can- yon, with many fine views three or four hun- dred feet into its depths. The canyon dis- plays the curious columns and other gro- tesque forms characteristic of this entire volcanic region, though each of these picture- gorges is distinctive in some new shuffling of Ma/ama's magic deck. Easy Mountaineering Crater Lake National Park offers the mountain climber a novel field and many heights, some of which can be reached with- out great exertion; good horse trails and roads available for autos lead to several prominent summits. Union Peak and Scott Peak are perhaps the most remarkable. Union Peak, 7,698 feet above sea level, is about ten miles southwest of Crater Lake Lodge, and can be reached by saddle animals to within a quarter of a mile of its conical top. The last 700 feet is very steep, but the footing is secure. Unlike most of the mountains in this region, Union Peak is not a cinder cone, but the solid core of an ancient volcano. The view embraces the entire park. The trail to Bald Top extends beyond Union Peak three miles, but it is very rough and steep. Scott Peak, 8,938 feet, is to the east, twenty-two miles from Crater Lake Lodge, and rises 700 feet above any other point in the vicinity of Crater Lake It is reached by auto to Cloud Cap, thence two miles by foot trail. There is an excellent trail to the top of Garfield Peak, 8,060 feet, one and a quarter miles east of The Lodge. It can be made by foot or saddle animal. From its summit, which overlooks the lake, can be seen the Klamath Lake region to the south and the green valley of the Wood River. The lofty snow-capped peaks of Mt. McLoughlin and Mt. Shasta loom beyond. Mount Thiel- son, 9, I 78 feet, and Diamond Lake are seen to the north of Crater Lake, a region which it is proposed to include in a Greater Crater Lake National Park. The Watchman, five miles north of The Lodge, and Glacier Peak, 8,156 feet, six miles north and the highest peak on the rim, are on the east side of the lake, and each is reached by auto and easy foot trails. Vidae Cliff, on the rim, rises three miles east of The Lodge, and has a good horse trail to the top, distance seven miles. A complete list of the principal points of interest, with heights and distances, is shown on another page. Page ten Horse trails lead to mountain heights and to many vantage points upon the rim. Wild Animals and Game The Park abounds in black and brown bear, blacktail deer, pine marten, porcupine; also grouse, pheasants and numerous varie- ties of birds. Deer and bear are more plenti- ful each year and are becoming quite tame. Firearms in the Park afe not permitted. Cougar, lynx, timber wolves and coyotes are seen occasionally and are being exterminated by the ranger force. Scenic Approaches to Crater Lake by Medford and by Klamath Falls The approaches to Crater Lake National Park are from the railroad stations of Med- ford, Ore., and Klamath Falls, Ore. The dis- tance from Medford by auto is 81 miles; from Klamath Falls 62 miles, and these ap- proaches constitute no little charm of the Crater Lake trip, for each drive traverses a country of much diversity in scenic attrac- tiveness. Crater Lake affords a most interesting side trip for tourists to or from California. THE MEDFORD APPROACH: From Medford, the chief city of the Rogue River Valley, the auto road leads northeastward through miles of orchard country. Gradu- ally the highway climbs out of the valley into the wooded foothills and as it leads up the gorge of the Rogue River the scenery takes on a wilder aspect. Among anglers the fast- flowing Rogue is noted for its hard-fighting steelhead and rainbow trout. The river here runs like a thief and twists like a rogue, but its waters are white with rapids, the name being derived from its ruddy bed and given it by those French Canadian voyageurs the Riviere Rouge, or red river. Higher up the canyon, in the deepest wil- derness, thunder the great Falls of the Rogue a'nd farther up its course the river is spanned by a natural bridge of lava, a hundred feet across. At Rogue-Elk, thirty-six miles from Medford, lunch is served, and the drive is resumed, passing through the greatest forest of yellow pine in the world, with many firs, yews, larches and cedars. Climbing into the Cascades the view covers far-reaching vistas of densely wooded heights. As the road leaves the Rogue River it turns eastward up the canyon of Castle Creek and crosses the western boundary of the Park. Ahead is a cluster of sloping peaks, rising 1,000 feet above the general level of the range, and as the road winds upward to the crest below like a glittering jewel in a sunken setting lies Crater Lake. THE KLAMATH FALLS APPROACH: Klamath Falls is the center of the "Klamath Country" and is situated on the banks of the Link River, about a mile from Upper Klam- ath Lake. It is in a region full of the charm of mountain and forest, much of it still a wilderness a fitting gateway for Crater Lake National Park. Its marshes are breed- ing-grounds for wild fowl; its clear streams are full of fighting trout; in its forests roam deer, bear and cougars. Crystal River, Cherry Creek, Wood River, Odessa Creek, Williamson River, Spring Creek and Sprague River are a few of the trout streams, well known to anglers, that enter the upper lake. Pelican Bay is a favorite trolling ground. The auto road leads for eigtheen miles along the shores of Upper Klamath Lake, the home of the white pelican. The lake is twenty-five miles in length and ten miles at its greatest width. The snow-capped peak of Mount McLoughlin rises 6,000 feet above its western shore, which shows tier upon tier Page eleven Mount McLaughlin rears to the west on the Medford road,, and rises above the shore of Upper Klamath Lake on the Klamath Falls road. The Falls of the Rogue River on the Medford road. Mount Shasta looms to the south on the Klamath Falls road. of heavily timbered ridges that hem the hori- zon. Passing through the Klamath Indian Agency at the head of the lake, the road five miles further runs through Fort Klamath, both lying in a broad valley, surrounded by wooded foothills. As the grade ascends, the view looking back is a revelation in land- scape loveliness. Winding upward through heavier timber it follows Anna Creek Canyon to Anna Springs Camp at the Park head- quarters, thence five miles to Crater Lake Lodge on the rim. Accommodations Within the Park CRATER LAKE LODGE: This attractive hotel constructed mainly of gray stone stands in the pines directly on the southeastern rim overlooking the lake, 1,000 feet above the water. It contains sixty-four rooms and af- fords comfortable accommodations and good service. It has ample bathing facilities and fire protection. Around the large open fire- place in its lobby visitors each evening re- count their day's experiences, and anglers unreel their tales of the fish they caught, and of the fish that got away. Tents are provided, on request, for those who prefer them, meals being taken at The Lodge. There are many inviting spots on flower dotted meadows around the lodge, where beneath the pines on shaded slopes are snow- banks, with bright snow-flowers peeping through their melting edges. ANNA SPRING CAMP: At the park head- quarters, at Anna Spring, five miles south of Crater Lake Lodge, a good camp is main- tained. The spring gushes from the moun- tainside at the head of Anna Creek. There is a general store here (with branch at The Lodge) where necessary supplies are obtainable. Season The 1919 season of Crater Lake National Pai extends from July 1st to September 30th. Park Administration Crater Lake National Park is under the juris- diction of the Director, Na'ional Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Cra Lake, Ore. How to Reach Crater Lake National Park Crater Lake National Park is connected automobile stages of the Crater Lake Company with the railroad stations at Medford, Ore., a Klamath Falls, Ore. During the Park season, round-trip excursi tickets at reduced fares are sold at many stations in California and Oregon to Crater Lake National Park as a destination. Passengers wishing to visit the Park as a side-trip in connection with journeys to other destinations will find stop-over privileges available on through round-trip and one-way tickets, and may, if they choose, enter the Park via Medford and leave via Klama Falls, or the reverse. Storage charges on baggage will be waived at railroad statiors at Medford, Klamath Falls or Weed, or at Portland, or at Sacramento, Oak- land Pier, San Francisco or Los Angeles, for actual length of time consumed by passengers in making the Crater Lake trip. Automobile-Stage Rates The Crater Lake Co. will operate regular daily auto- mobile service from Medford, and Klamath Falls. Oregon, to and from Crater Lake National Park at the following rates: One Round Way Trip Medford to Crater Lake $ 8.50 $15.00 Klamath Falls to Crater Lake 8.00 12.50 Medford to Klamath Falls, via Crater Lake. 15.00 Klamath Falls to Medford. via Crater Lake. 15.00 . W my ion Page twelve Rates at Crater Lake Lodge Board and lodging (lodging in tents), one person: Per day ................................... $ 3.50 Per week ................................... 20.00 Board and lodging, two or more persons in one tent Per day ............................... each Per week .............................. each 3.00 17.50 1.00 .75 Lodging in tents: One person, per night. Two or more persons in one tent, per night, each Board and lodging (lodging in hotel), one person: Per day 4.00 Per week 22.50 Board and lodging, two or more persons in one room: Per day each 3.50 Per week each 20.00 Lodging in hotel: One person, per night 1.50 Two or more persons in one room, per night, each 1 .25 In hotel rooms, with hot and cold water: Board and lodging, one person: Per day 4.50 Per week 25.00 Board and lodging, two or more persons in room: Per day each 4.00 Per week each 22.50 Lodging: One person, per night 2.00 Two or more persons in one room, per night each 1.75 Baths (extra) to house guests. 25 cents; others. .50 Fires in rooms (extra) 25 Single meals 1 .00 Rates at Anna Spring Tent Camp Board and lodging, each person: Per day $ 2.50 Per week 15.00 Meals: Breakfast, lunch or dinner 75 Lodging: One person, per night 1 .00 Children under 10 years, half rates at lodge or camp. Automobile Rates Fare between Anna Spring Camp and Crater Lake Lodge: One way $ .50 Round Trip 1 .00 Special trips will be made when parties of four or more are made up, as follows: Transportation, per mile, within the park 10 To Anna Creek Canyon, including Dewie Canyon and Garden of the Gods. 24-mile trip, for each person 2.00 Trip around the Lake on rim road, side-trip to the Pinnacles, and picnic lunch, for each person. . . 5.00 The Sunset Drive, from Crater Lake Lodge to sum- mit of road at Watchman, at sunset. 10-mile trip, for each person 1 .00 Rates for Horses, Burros and Pack Animals Saddle horses, pack animals and burros (when fur- nished): Per hour $ .50 Per day 3.00 Service of guide, with horse: Per hour 1 .00 Per day 6.00 Launches and Rowboats Launch Trips: Wizard Island and return, on regular schedule, launches leaving lake shore at 9 a. m.. I 1 a. m.. 2 p. m., and 5 p. m., per person $ .50 Wizard Island and return, special trip, per person 1 .00 Around Wizard Island and Phantom Ship and return (about 15 miles), per person 2.00 Around the Lake, per person 2.50 Rowboats: Per hour 50 Per day 2.50 With boat puller, per hour 50 With detachable motor, per hour 50 Per day 5.00 U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C. at prices given. Remittances should be made by money order or in cash: Geological History of Crater Lake, by J. S. Diller, 32 pages. 28 illustrations. 10 cents. Forests of Crater Lake National Park, by J. F. Pernot. 40 pages. 26 illustrations. 20 cents. Panoramic view of Crater Lake National Park; I6H by 18 inches. 25 cents. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National Parks. Pamphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. The following may be obtained from the Director of the United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. at price given. Map of Crater Lake National Park; 1 9 by 22 ins.. 10 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service. Washington, D. C.. or by personal application to the office of the superin tendent of the park. Circular of General Information Regarding Crater Lake National Park. Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments and railroad routes them.. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office ; or apply to the Bureau of Service. National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau West- ern Lines 646 Transportation Bldg , Chicago. 111. : Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park. Oregon Glacier National Park. Montana Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado Mount Rainier National Park. Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michigan. Iowa and Illinois Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Par' s, California Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho Yosemite National Park. California Zion National Monument, Utah Distances from Crater Lake Lodge by road or trail to principal points of Interest Distance and Name General Direction Above Sra Le>el Bet Mean, of Reaching Remark. Miles Feet LlaoRock. 8 north.... 8.046 Auto, horse- Point from which the back, and legendary Llao't foot body wa. thrown into lake. All-day Diamond trip. Lake 18 north.. Horseback.. Good fishing. Near view of Mt. Theil- Devil'. .on. Backbone 6.5 north Auto Fine view of forma- tion and coloring of Glacier Glacier Peak. Peak 6 north... TheWatch- 8.156 Auto and foot Highest point on rim of lake: fine view. man 5 north. .. 8,025 .do Easy climb. Garfield Foot or hor.e- Peak 1.25 ea.t... 8.060 back Ea.y climb. Vidae Cliff. 3 ea.t 8,135 do Fine view. E*y trip by horse: 7 mile.. Sun Notch. 7eat 7.115 Auto and foot Fine view of Phan- tom Ship. W.Ik 1 mile. Ea.y trail. Dutton Cliff 9.5ea.t... 8.150 ...do Fine view; 7.5 miles by auto. 2 on foot. Sentinel Rock.... I8ea.t... Auto Most comprehensive view from rim. Cloud Cap. 20 ea.t ...do Fine drive and view. Scott'. Peak 22ea.t 8.839 Auto and fool 2 mile, by trail from Cloud Cap. High- Pinnacle.. 15.5 south- est point in park. east A.ito Grotesque forrha- Garden of tion*. the God. Dewey Fall. 5 wuth Ann* do Waterfalkmeadows. Anna Creek pretty canyon.. Canyon. 10 to 13.5 south.... .do Beautiful canyon. MX) to 400 feet Union Peak 10.5 wuth- deep. wet 7.698 Auto and fool Fine view of entire Wizard I.land.... 3.5 north 6.940 Boat and foot park. Extinct volcano. crater in summit. Trail to top and Phantom into crater. Ship 3eat... do Grotesque lava- pin- nacled island. Page thirteen Springs Desert \\ j *:< Crescent ** Bald Crater R.dge 6" 74 it. Desert Cone eesi it. O / /- - / 0: Timber Crater 7360 It. O Oasis Butte 6685 II. s! ^"Grouse Hill 7401 It. vation 6177 feet in 1908 Depth over 2000 feet .er 1000 feet high The Watchm 8025 It. j ^ CRATER LAKE LODGE r"^" * -. O Ctttlt Pomt OJOO It. ^S\ R. R. STA I I k I \KI. INATIONAI PARK I 1 , kirk Shasta CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK OREGON Scale __.__ Boundary _^_ Automobile Roads .. Trails Page fourteen The National Parks at a Glance u ted States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Austin, Tex 521 Congress Ave. Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St. Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago, 111 179 W. Jackson St. Colorado Springs, Colo., 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex I 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex. . .Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno, Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. 2 1st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City, Mo., Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Lincoln. Neb. . . . Little Rock. Ark Long Beach, Ca' . . Los Angeles, Ca.. Milwaukee. Wis . . ...104 N. 13th St. 202 W. 2d St. L.A. & S.L. Station .221 S. Broadway . .99 Wisconsin St. 202 Sixth St.South Annapolis. Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City, N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md. . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y.. Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio. .1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St Minneapolis, Minn.. **,*. ^. A> ... ^..._u u ,... Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal. .Pacific Elec. Depot Oklahoma City. Okla., 131 W. Grand Ave Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. HI. .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz.. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore., 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis, Mo., 318-328 N. Broadway East Detroit, Mich. . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind . L. Sc N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich . . . . 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 112-14 English Block Montreal. Que 238 St. James St. Newark. N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y . . . . 64 Broadway New York. N. Y . .57 Chambers St. New York, N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y I 14 W. 42d St. South St. Paul. Minn. .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento, Cal .. ...80 IK Si. Salt Lake City. Utah. Main and S. Temple Sta. San Antonio, Tex.. 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Franciso, Cal 50 Post St. San Jose. Cal. .1st andSan FernandoSla. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La.,Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash.. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash .. I I I 7-19 Pacific Ave. Waco. Tex 6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal .. . .L. A. fit S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa . . . . Reading. Pa Rochester. N. Y . Syracuse. N. Y Toledo, Ohio Washington. D. C Williamsport. Pa . . Wilmington. Del. . .1539 Chestnut St. . . .Arcade Building . ...16 N. Fifth St. 20 State St. .335S. Warren St. .320 Madison Ave. . 1229 F St. N. W. .4th and Pine Sts. ...905 Market St. Asheville. N. C 14 S. Polk Square Lexington. Ky Union Station Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Louisville. Ky. . .4th and Market Sta. Augusta Ga 81 1 Broad St. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. tiirmineham Ala J 1st Ave KM i_- T* t-n HI \* c*. Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. 13 19 Washington St. Winslon-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. nents address Bureau of Service, ,ines, 646 Transportation Bldg , c r- ' V^iL i tj i Memphis, lenn 60 N. Main bt. (Charleston, b. (-....Charleston Hotel ** ,-| *i <; i Q a I Q Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. JJobile. Ala ' ', R y tl St ; Chattanooga. Tenn. .817 Market St. Montgomery. Ala. . .. Exchange Hotel Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Nashville Tenn.. Independent Life Bldg. Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. New Orleans. La Si. Charles Hotel Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St Norfolk Va Monticello Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monu National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western L Chicago. P a e fifteen SEASON 1919 The ?ho*t-lik^ pinnacles in Sand Creek Canyon. A forest of these giant monolith* crowd the canyon walls. ill GLACIER Nationa.1 Park O N A L E Rl E S DAWSON PASS An intimate view from the summit of the Pass is obtained of the massive walls surrounding th= Two Medicine Valley An Appreciation of Glacier National Park By Mary Roberts Rinehart Author of "Tenting To-nigbt," "Through Glacier Park, " K", and Other Stories. Written expressly for the United States Railroad Administration F you are normal and philosophical, if you love your country, if you are willing to learn how little you count in the eternal scheme of things, go ride in the Rocky Mountains and save your soul. There are no "Keep off the Grass" signs in Glacier National Park. It is the wildest part of America. If the Government had not preserved it, it would have preserved itself but you and I would not have seen it. It is perhaps the most unique of all our parks, as it is undoubtedly the most magnificent. Seen from an automobile or a horse, Glacier National Park is a good place to visit. Here the Rocky Mountains run northwest and southeast, and in their glacier- carved basins are great spaces; cool shadowy depths in which lie blue lakes; moun- tain-sides threaded with white, where, from some hidden lake or glacier far above, the overflow falls a thousand feet or more, and over all the great silence of the Rockies Here nerves that have been tightened for years slowly relax. Here is the last home of a vanishing race the Blackfeet Indians. Here is the last stand of the Rocky Mountain sheep and the Rocky Mountain goat; here are elk, deer, black and grizzly bears, and mountain lions. Here are trails that follow the old game trails along the mountain side; here are meadows of June roses, forget- me-not, larkspur, and Indian paintbrush growing beside glaciers, snowfields and trails of a beauty to make you gasp. Here and there a trail leads through a snowfield; the hot sun seems to make no impression on these glacier-like patches. Flowers grow at their very borders, striped squirrels and whistling marmots run about, quite fearless, or sit up and watch the passing of horses and riders so close they can almost be touched. The call of the mountains is a real call. Throw off the impedimenta of civiliza- tion. Go out to the West and ride the mountain trails. Throw out your chest and breathe look across green valleys to wild peaks where mountain sheep stand im- passive on the edge of space. Then the mountains will get you. You will go back. The call is a real call. I have tr veled a great deal of Europe. The Alps have never held this lure for me. Perhaps it is because these mountains are my own in my own country. Cities call I have heard them. But there is no voice in all the world so insistent to me as the wordless call of these mountains. I shall go back. Those who go once always hope to go back. The lure of the great free spaces is in their blood. Page t bree To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Glacier National Park ]EYOND the golden grain fields of the Dakotas, past the big ranches of the cattle country and adjoining the Blackfeet Indian Reservation in north- western Montana, is a segment of the Rocky Mountains abutting the inter- national boundary for thirty-five miles and extending fifty miles south to the railroad. The bold, grey perpendicular peak with the oblong summit is Chief Mountain sacred to the Indians, because according to the legend of the old Medi- cine Men, this was "where the Great Spirit lived when he made the world." Within this area of fifteen hundred square miles are more rugged mountain peaks, more glaciers, more picturesque lakes, more streams and waterfalls than exist anywhere else in America in so con- densed an area. This is Glacier National Park. Longer than the Red Man's legends or memory serve, this tract of eroded, snow- capped peaks, icy ravines, blue lakes, trout-inhabited streams and alpine mead- ows was the playground of the Blackfeet and Piegan Indians. Here they found elk, moose, deer, antelope, buffalo, bear, big-horn sheep and the long-haired moun- tain goat. The lakes and streams sup- plied all the fish they required, while the sarvisberries and huckleberries were abundant on the sunny mountain slopes. Today this is your playground. The United States Government purchased it from the Indians so that you might enjoy its attractions. It became a National Park May II, 1910. National Parks have been created by Congress for various reasons: To reserve for the people the wonders of natural phenomena; to provide free access to the waters of medicinal springs; to pre- serve the interesting architecture of a prehistoric race, or to furnish vacation playgrounds located where Nature has been unusually generous in assembling her scenic gems. Glacier National Park is in the last category. Above everything else it is a summer playground for the people, ap- pealing to that human emotion so aptly expressed by Jack London in the title of his interesting book, "The Call of the Wild." Of course the glaciers are the head- liners for Glacier National Park. They are a great attraction for the average tourist, who knows that glaciers are un- common things and reminiscent of the earlier mighty earth processes. Here one Page J our F.H.Kiter ICEBERG LAKE Huge chunk* of ice break off the glacier, and in July and August Iceberg Lake is a miniature Polar Sea K. E. Marble Walking and hoi TOURISTS "HIT THE TRAIL" ie trails radiate in every direction from Many Glacier not only sees them in action, but also sees what they have done in ages past. Contains Three-Score Glaciers In Glacier Park may be seen, in all the majesty of their rock- bound settings, the remnants of the massive ice sheets that played a big part in shaping the surface of the earth millions of years ago. Not one or two, but dozens of them are clinging to the sides of the scarred and serrated ridges of the Continental Divide, where they spread out like a string of pearls glistening in the sun. On summer days these glaciers are fur- rowed with thousands of threads of water innumerable little rills which run and sparkle over their surfaces like fine threads of quicksilver. Finally they join the larger streams which go plunging over the moisture-laden, flower-strewn, grassy slopes into the milky-blue waters of the lakes hundreds of feet below. A glacier has three characteristics: It is ice, the ice must be moving, and it must have moved sufficiently to have formed a moraine, consisting of rocks, earth and debris which the glacier has pushed ahead of it or thrown to each side in its forward movement. The im- mobility of a glacier is only apparent. It is living. It moves and advances with- Page six ^y 5 ted out ceasing. Winter is the season of re- pose for the glaciers. In the spring, all their life and activity return. The warm- er the weather, the more activity they develop. Interest in the glaciers soon leads enthusiasm over the scenic effects create as a result of the prehistoric glacial ac- tion, and nowhere in America is this so strikingly displayed. In fact, it is the result of this glacial action of the past combined with one other unusual geologi- cal formation, known as the Lewis Over- thrust Fault, that makes Glacier National Park the beauty spot it is today. The Great Uplift of the Lewis Overthrust Geologists teach that an overthrust fault is a displacement of earth strata whereby one layer of rock overlaps an- other. It is the result of pressures far below the surface of the earth. As the earth's crust contracted during the long ages of the past, pressures from within caused a bulging in places, very much as the sides of an orange will bulge when squeezed. This terrific pressure gradually pushed up the rocks and earth and formed the mountain ranges. In a few places the pressure was sufficient to break through the crust. This is what TWO MEDICINE LAKES The exquisite grouping of mountains around the lakes give this basin a marked individuality happened in what is now Glacier Na- tional Park. When the earth's crust could stand the pressure no longer, one edge was thrust upward and tumbled for- ward over the other edge; when it settled, the western edge of this break overlapped the eastern edge ten to fifteen miles, and was thousands of feet high, extending along a front of forty miles. As a result of this upheaval, there are several places in the Park, notably at Chief Mountain, where the oldest stratum of rock is found on top of the mountain and the newest stratum at the bottom. This has been named the Lewis Over- thrust. 1 1 is one of the largest in the world and is of great interest to scientists. It is interesting to trace the course of the Lewis Overthrust. It practically forms the eastern edge of the Park, and is plainly outlined on the topographic maps issued by the United States Geological Survey. Starting at a point on the rail- road just south of Fielding, it extends in a northerly direction almost to the in- ternational boundary, and in a general way follows a line parallel to the Con- tinental Divide. The Carving of the Rocks Later came the glacial period, and the moving out of the great ice sheets which covered this part of the earth for untold ages. As the vast ice masses moved down the slopes of this precipitous wall, they gouged deep furrows that formed valleys, and cut and chiseled the highly-colored rocks, tearing away the softer parts, and swerving from their courses when they encountered resistance of the harder rock masses. The Lewis Overthrust Fault gave the glaciers a wonderful opportunity. The grinding and carving by the huge ice masses, followed by erosion during thou- sands of years of exposure to the ele- ments, have created fantastic effects. Much of the exposed rock is very highly colored, red and green mixed with blue- grey. In due course of the slow centu- ries came the change of climate, which brought with it grass, trees, flowers and other vegetation, so that today this re- gion is a veritable symphony of water, rock and foliage. It is in the marvelous grouping and massing of these colorful effects that Glacier Park makes such a strong appeal. It will be seen, therefore, that this ti- tanic Overthrust fault, which occurred millions of years ago, is the primary rea- son for Glacier National Park today. It is the distinguishing feature that differen- tiates this part of the Rockies from all Page seven F.H.Kis f r TRAIL OVER SWIFTCURRENT PASS From Swiftcurrent Pass marvelous views are obtained of stupendous granite walls and turquoise blue lake Page eight other mountain regions in North America. The result is that the visitor entering Glacier Park finds a land of enormous hollowed basins or cirques, separated from each other by saw-tooth edged walls. In many cases these walls are nearly per- pendicular and rise two to four thousand feet above the floor of the basin. Espe- cially fine examples are to be seen at Cracker Lake, Iceberg Lake, and Ava- lanche Basin. These glacial cirques are a striking feature of Glacier National Park. They are huge pockets or U-shaped basins that are actually carved out of the rock by the constant grinding of the moving glaciers. A Mass of Majestic Mountain Peaks The main range of the Rockies extends north and south through the Park, the Continental Divide being almost in its center, and forming a natural wall which divides the Park into halves. It is the east side that presents the most stupendous scenic effects. Some idea of the magnitude of this mountain realm is indicated by the number of peaks within its narrow confines. There are 83 named mountains having an altitude of from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, and four ex- ceeding 10,000 feet the highest being Mt. Cleveland, 10,438 feet. They are huddled together as though they tried to crowd each other out of the way in their effort to reach the clouds. From the summit of Swiftcurrent Mountain over forty of these peaks can be counted from one viewpoint. Irregular in outline, fantastic in shape, and always spectacular, they have one characteristic in common the abruptness with which they rise from the shore of lake or floor of valley. No need here to walk over rolling foothills several miles to reach a mountain. There are no foot- hills; one is close to the mountains all the time. There is opportunity here to get acquainted with these mountains intimately acquainted from the com- fortable cushions of an automobile or the sunny decks of a smooth-running launch. Their lure is as elusive as it is fascinating. Never does one see them twice the same. Under constantly changing atmospheric conditions they vary their tones from light blue to deep purple, from brilliant red to faint rose, softened by the rich green foliage on the (ower levels. The upper slopes are above timber line; the lower slopes, and the valleys not oc- cupied by lakes and streams, are crowded with forests, green and inviting. From the front porches of the hotels and chalets magnificent pictures are presented of mountain peaks, snowfields, glaciers, lakes, canyons and forests, grouped and massed in delicate yet bewildering com- binations. An Amazing Array of Mountain Lakes The lakes perhaps are the one feature that appeals to more persons than any other phase of Glacier Park's varied at- tractions. Lakes everywhere -long and narrow lakes round and irregular lakes little blue ponds in mountain pockets, and long silvery ribbons in narrow valleys. Lake St. Mary, with its stately, cres- cent-shaped mountain frame, almost a mile above the surface, is fed by melting ice and snow from Blackfeet Glacier. 1 1 is the largest lake on the east side, while Lake McDonald is the gem of the west side of the Park. Both lakes are long, narrow and very deep, with mountains rising from their shores. It is on these lakes that one can cruise in comfortable launches, or from a rowboat try his luck with a fly casting rod in the shadows of the pines. Two Medicine Lake is somewhat smaller, and has both symmetry and dig- nity. The surrounding peaks bathe their red granite summits in the azure sky and their green bases in the soft blue waters. Grinnell, Josephine, McDermott, Gunsight, Ellen Wilson and Cracker Lakes each has its individual charm, but Iceberg Lake is the most interesting. The warmer the weather the more ice there is in the lake. Iceberg Glacier projects its face into the lake, and day after day dur- ing the summer this ice field crumbles along the front, great chunks breaking off and sliding into the water to float around on the bosom of the lake hun- dreds of them, oftentimes. Flowers and foliage growing along the shores add to the charm of this unique place, where summer and winter meet. There are many other lakes. The United States Geological Survey has mapped two P c g t nine This cone shaped peak stands like GRINNELL MOUNTAIN sentinel at the entrance to the S\ 'iftcurrent and Cataract Valleys hundred and fifty. From trail and road they peer at one from all sides. They are low in the canyons and high on the moun- tains. They reflect the peaks, trees and rocks in their blue waters during the day, and at evening time absorb the glow of the setting sun, as though trying to dis- pel the night chill from the waters. \ Million- (arden For profusion and variety : the wild flowers of Glacier Park must share honors with the lakes. In the valleys, along the shores of lakes and streams, on the moun- tain passes, oftentimes on the very edge of snowfields and glaciers, wild flowers add their variegated hues to the green foliage and the harsher colors in the rocks. More than one hundred varieties of wild flowers are native to the Park. Canyon Creek, Cracker Lake, Piegan Pines, Grin- nell Lake, Logan Pass and Granite Park are a few of the places especially noted for plant life. Below are some of the prominent varie- ties of wild flowers, berries, and grasses seen along the roads and trails: Indian paint brush, mountain lilies, asters, walking cane, yellow dog-tooth violet, wild hollyhock, clematis, syringa, queen's cup, bluebell, twin flower, star of the morning, lupin, yellow columbine, blue larkspur and false forget-me-not; huckleberry, pigeonberry and thimble- berry; beargrass, sweetgrass and bearweed. The Oldest Inhabitants Creatures of the wild are in evidence at every turn of the road or trail. Black and brown bears are often seen, generally near the chalets and hotels, and occasion- ally will pose for the photographer. There are also "silvertips" or grizzly bears. The Rocky Mountain goat is perhaps the most interesting of the large wild animals. This sure-footed climber pre- fers the higher altitudes on the mountain slopes, and seldom descends low enough to give the tourist a "close-up." They can be seen moving along the narrow rock ledges and are easily distinguished by their coats of long white hair, which sharply contrast with the rocks. The big-horn, or Rocky Mountain sheep, is more friendly, also more inquisi- tive. He will occasionally pause in his feeding to gaze at a passing party of tour- ists, apparently quite unafraid, and exhibiting a curious interest in his dis- turbers. Elk and deer may be seen trotting along the trail, or on the shore of some lake or stream where they come down to drink. Pane ten i.ser UPPER ST. MARY LAKE From the porches of the chalet, a marvelous view is obtained of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain and the embattled peaks at the head of the valley The small animals, such as porcupines, whistling marmots and mountain or pack rats, are interesting and harmless. The whistling marmot is invariably encoun- tered above timber line, especially on the passes. Large families live in tunnels and caves in rocks. They always have a sen- tinel on watch, and when disturbed by passing tourists, they warn each other by their whistle, which is a splendid imita- tion of a small boy signaling his chum to come out to play. Where the Fighting Trout Leap High Several species of mountain trout in- habit most of the lakes and streams. The principal varieties are the cut-throat (otherwise known as the native or black- spotted trout), rainbow, Dolly Varden, eastern brook and Mackinaw trout. The cut-throat and eastern brook are the favor- ites of trout fishermen. They are both very game, very shy, and at times require considerable coaxing, but they strike quickly and are hard fighters. These fish sometimes attain a weight of six pounds. Mackinaw trout are found only in St. Mary Lake. They have been taken weigh- ing thirty-five pounds; ten to fifteen pound Mackinaw trout are quite common. They are not as good fighters as the smaller vari- eties, but for excitement make up in weight what they lack in fighting qualities. The Dolly Varden and rainbow trout are confined to a few lakes and the larger streams, and are not caught as frequently as the other varieties. Practically all fishing is done by cast- ing with a fly rod, using artificial flies or sometimes salmon eggs for bait. Home of Blackfeet Indians The Blackfeet and Piegan Indians have left a lasting impress of their occupation of this region, as the names of many of the mountains, lakes and waterfalls still bear the original Indian names, such as Rising Wolf, Going-to-the-Sun and Almost-a- Dog mountains, Morning Eagle Falls, and Two Medicine Lakes. They also con- tributed to the mysticism and romance of the country by the tales of their early day ceremonies in the walled-in valleys, their hunting exploits on the prairies, and the religious significance they attach to sev- eral of the high peaks. From the days when the Indians roamed the vast prairies to the east, and their hunting ground extended from the Missouri River on the south to the Sask- atchewan River in Canada this region was known to them as the "Land of Shining Mountains." Page eleven MANY GLACIER HOTEL At the end of the auto road is Many Glacier Hotel, the focal point for trips over miles of mountain trails The Lure of Glacier Park Glacier National Park has no frivolous sideshows for garrulous trippers, no Coney Island attractions. There are other canyons as deep and other moun- tains as high; but those who have roamed the world with eyes open sincerely say that in no other place they have seen has Nature so condensed her wonders and run riot with such utter abandon; in no other place has she carved and hewn with such unrestrained fancy, and scattered her jewels with so reckless a hand. Here the Rocky Mountains tumble and froth like a wind-whipped tide, as they careen off to the northwest. This is the fountain head of the Continent, with its triple watershed the beginning of little and big things. Huddled close together are tiny streams, the span of a hand in width, that miles and miles away to the north, south and west, flow as mighty rivers into Hudson Bay, the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Two hundred and fifty lakes in valley, glacial cirque and mountain pocket flash back to the sky the blue and green hues they borrowed from it. Hundreds of waterfalls cascade from their sources on glacial field or everlasting snow in mighty torrents or milky -white traceries; rain- bows flicker and vanish in the ever- changing play of the waters, while the bright Montana sun does tricks of light and shade on tree and rock. High up on some gale-swept crag the mountain goat pauses for a moment and plunges from view. Lower down the big- horn sheep treads his sure-footed way; the clownish bear shuffles to his huckle- berry patch; and in the blue of the heav- ens, between mountain peak and sun, the bald eagle sails his rounded course, peer- ing down for the timid creature beneath the leaves or in the shadow of the rocks. And all is as it was thousands of years ago, except for some man-tracks here and there, where the road winds around the base of mountain and over ridge; where the mark of a trail leaves its faint trace on the surface, or the blue smoke curling up from the stone chimney of chalet or hotel indicates that man has appropri- ated it to his uses. Page t ii> e It t 1 GLACIER PARK HOTEL The hotel at the Eastern gateway is of unique architecture The Indians call if the "Big Trees Lodge" Entering at Glacier Park Station Eastern Gateway LACIER PARK station, Montana, is the eastern and principal en- trance to the Park. Adjacent to the railroad station is Glacier Park Hotel, the gateway hostelry and starting point for trips farther north. It is a short walk along wide poppy- bordered paths, through the gateway arch to the hotel office. The architecture of this mammoth structure is what might be called the "forestry" type the striking feature being the immense logs of Douglas fir and cedar used as supporting pillars, inside and out. Many of these logs are forty-two feet high and several measure five feet in diameter; they extend from basement to roof. The building, containing nearly two hundred rooms, is in two large units connected by a long, roofed-over observation room, with large plate glass windows facing the mountains. On one side is Midvale Creek, a pretty little trout stream, and on the other side, within a few hundred yards, is Two Medicine River. From the porches of the hotel can be seen a dozen moun- tains guarding the entrance to the Two Medicine Valley Mt. Henry, Papoose, Bearhead, Squaw and Basin Mountains being the principal ones. To the east are the broad open plains of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. From Glacier Park Hotel four attractive auto trips may be made, as the automobile highway starts here. The one-day trip to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on St. Mary Lake is always popular. This ten-hour ride presents over 100 miles of the main range of the Rockies, a panorama from Divide Mountain south to Heart Butte. There is an afternoon trip to Two Medicine Lakes and Chalets, and the Cut Bank Canyon trip to Cut Bank Chalets. The five-hour auto tour to Many Glacier brings within the tourist's vision a com- bination of more mountain peaks, lakes, glaciers, and snow-capped summits than can be seen in the same length of time anywhere in this country. A good trail to Two Medicine Lake goes over Mt. Henry. From the top of this mountain a dozen peaks can be seen and a splendid view ob- tained of the entire Two Medicine Valley, half a mile below. The Two Medicine Valley "The-river-where-the-two-medicine-lodges- were-built" is the way the Indians designated the stream that drains the three lakes of the Two Medicine Valley. There are several versions of this legend of the Two Medicine Lodges, but all agree that many years ago there was factional strife in the Blackfeet Tribe and the two con- tending parties each built a medicine lodge on the banks of this river. Nothing in the Park excels the Two Medicine Valley in beauty of mountain grouping. Three fair-sized lakes in a chain, all at different alti- tudes, form the central stage, while grouped around them are a dozen splendid mountains of which Rising Wolf, with its red granite top 95 1 feet in the air, easily is monarch. The middle lake is reached by the automobile road, ending at the Two Medicine Chalets, artis- tically grouped on the lake shore in the shadow Page thirteen of Rising Wolf. At the head of the lake is Mt. Rockwell (9505 feet), flanked on one side by Mt. Helen and Pumpelly's Pillar, and on the other by Mt. Grizzly. Two Medicine Lake affords fine trout fishing. the favorite spot being at the outlet just below the chalets. Cut-throat and eastern brook trout are abundant in this lake and in Two Medicine River below Trick Falls. Trick Falls is located two miles from the chalets and the automobiles stop long enough to give passengers an opportunity to walk up the trail a few hundred feet, where a good view is obtainable. Dawson Pass, the summit of Mt. Henry, upper Two Medicine Lake, and the Dry Fork Trail over Mt. Morgan and Cut Bank Pass to the Cut Bank Chalets, are the principal trail trips from Two Medicine Chalets. In the Cut Bank Canyon Whichever way one enters the Cut Bank Can- yon. whether down the valley from the summit of Cut Bank Pass, or following the winding auto road up the river, one is impressed by the quiet restfulness of the place. The Cut Bank River has its source in a small glacier near the summit of the Pass. A series of three wide plateaux has enabled the trail-builders to make the descent to the floor of the valley by easy stages. On the upper plateau two tiny blue lakes are seen the first well-defined headwaters of the river. It is only a few miles from the summit down to the Chalets, the trail passing through many open parks, and crossing the stream several times. There are numerous pools in the bends of the river and the beavers have built dams here and there, making fine hiding places for the wary cut- throat trout, that is a native of this stream. Cut Bank Chalets are an over-night stop for trail parties moving between Two Medicine and St. Mary. 1 1 is also reached by automobile from Glacier Park 1 lotel. Above the Chalets a trail forks to the right, and following this will bring one to the Triple Divide, the most interesting peak in the Park. The Triple Divide } lere is perhaps the most interesting geological formation in America a three-sided mount, itti from whose summit the waters flow north to Hudson Bay. south to the Gulf of Mexico and west to the Pacific Ocean. It is not imaginary. A walk of about a mile from the place where the trail crosses the pass will bring one to the top of the Triple Divide, and from here the courses of the three tiny streams can be traced from their source for miles and miles down the valley, on their way to three different oceans. It is literally true that if a person standing on the summit of this three-sided mountain spills a cup of water it wr \ild find its way to three corners of the continent. Th* St. M.ir> 1 aki's ami the I merging from the dense timber along the automobile road, one gets the first comprehensive idea of Glacier National Park as the mountains massed at the head of St. Mary Valley suddenly are exposed to view Here are two narrow, ribbon-like bodies of water the St. Mary Lakes. The upper lake is ten miles long, with the mountains rising ab- ruptly from the shores; at the lower end of this lake are the St. Mary Chalets the fourth group in the chain of places operated by the Hotel Company. On the south shore of the lake. Red Eagle and Little Chief Mountains project their ship-like prows into the water. On the north shore Single- shot. Goat and Whitefish Mountains expose their red. green and purple hues to the mirror-like surface of the lake. Far up the valley the tilted cone of Fusilade Mountain disputes the right of way to Gunsight Pass, and Reynolds Peak, with its green slopes, is strongly contrasted against the frosted summit of the Continental Divide. A day's journey from St. Mary Chalets is Red Eagle Lake, celebrated among fishermen for its large cut-throat trout. At St. Mary Chalets a sturdy launch, capable of carrying one hundred passengers, is waiting. and transfer from the automobiles is made by passengers taking the side trip to Going-to-the- Sun Chalets at the head of the lake. Here, per- haps, the loveliest, single picture in the park in fact, many who are competent to judge, say. in the world is to be seen from the chalet porches. The Region of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain If there is one mountain above all others in Glacier National Park whose overpowering per- sonality impresses itself on the memory of the sightseer, it is Going-to-the-Sun. This is partly due to the fact that an excellent view of its classic outlines may be had from all sides. If one were standing on its summit. 9584 feet above sea level, he would look almost straight down nearly one mile into St. Mary Lake. The unusual name has no connection with the height of the mountain or its imposing cathedral-type architecture. It is an inaccurate translation of an Indian name. Many years ago. according to the Indian legend, the Sun Father sent his representative. Sour Spirit, to the Piegans and Blackfeet to teach them all the useful arts how to make a tepee, tan the hides of the wolf and elk. from which to manufacture moccasins and clothing, and other useful things. He showed them how to make bows and arrows that would kill the elk. deer and buffalo, and assure them plenty to eat. Sour Spirit lived with them a long time, but was finally called back to the lodge of his father in the sun. In order that his good work and teachings would not be forgotten, he caused the likeness of his face to be placed on the side of this mountain. It may be seen there today in the form of a great snow field, the outline of which strongly resembles an Indian face with the head dressed in a war bonnet. Ever since that time the Indians have called it "Mah-tah-pee-o- stook-sis-meh-stuk." which means "The moun- tain -with- the-face-of -Sour-Spirit-who-has-gone- back-to-the-sun." A stop of a few days must be made if one takes the trail trips described below. Sexton Glacier, hanging high on the mountain side, is in plain view from the deck of the launch. It is a popular side trip from Going-to-the Sun F.H.Kiser GOING-TO-THE-SUN MOUNTAIN The classic outlines of this mountain are revealed from every side. The summit is nearly one mile above the water P age fifteen t:? " V R.E. Marble IN THE MAI Grinnell Glacier. The Garden Wall. Gould Mountain and Josephine Lake Page s i x t e e REGION water, rock and foliage it has taken Nature millions of years to compose K ,ser t'boto Co. TR I CK FALLS The water discharges from a subterranean passage, but during the flood stage it also comes over the top Pant rifhtren Chalets to Sexton Glacier. A very pretty trail follows Baring Creek, and horses may be ridden to the very edge of the ice. West of the chalets is Gunsight Lake. From the foot of this lake it is a short climb to Blackfeet Glacier, the largest, and in many respects the most interesting, of all the glaciers in the Park to explore. Over Gunsight Pass to Sperry Glacier At Gunsight Lake the trail starts up the steep slopes of Mt. Jackson toward Gunsight Pass, from the summit of which an expansive view both east and west is unfolded; two thousand feet below is Gunsight Lake, on the east side, and Lake Ellen Wilson, on the west side. Swinging along the shale-rock slopes above Lake Ellen Wilson, and over the Lincoln Divide, the trail descends suddenly into a circular basin to the Sperry Glacier Chalets. Continuing, it again drops down the side of Mt. Edwards to Lake McDonald. It is practically a day's journey from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets to Sperry Glacier Chalets, either on foot or with horses, and about a three-hour trip from Sperry to Lake McDonald. If a trip up to the glacier is planned, it will be necessary to stop at the chalets over night. Over Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Another well traveled route from Going-to-the- Sun Chalets is over Piegan Pass trail, which starts directly west, following the lake shore to the north fork of the St. Mary River. Here it swings to the right, and by means of many turns around the forest-covered benches, ascends the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, finally reach- ing the depression in the connecting wall between Cataract and Siyeh mountains, known as Piegan Pass. Here is one of those matchless, incom- parable scenes which words fail to portray. Blackfeet Glacier to the south, its five square miles of snow and ice in line of vision, displays a glistening array of blue, green and pinkish hues, as the sun penetrates crevasse and fissure. This is the trail route to the Many Glacier region. Lunch boxes are unpacked at Piegan Pines, at the edge of the timber line, below the summit of the pass. In this tiny mountain park of a few acres can at certain seasons be found more than two dozen varieties of flowers. Descending the north side of the mountain, the trail winds down and around Morning Eagle Falls to Cataract Creek. From here on it is very picturesque, circling along the base of Gould Mountain to Grinnell Lake, and thence along the shore of Josephine Lake and Lake McDermott to Many Glacier Hotel. The New Logan Pass Trail During the summer of 1918 a new trail was completed across the Continental Divide, known as Logan Pass Trail. It is intensely scenic, and easy to travel either afoot or on horseback. Leaving Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, this trail branches to the left four miles out on the Piegan Pass trail and strikes up Reynolds Creek, past the shelf glacier which sprinkles its waters on a narrow fertile bench called the Hanging Gardens, on the east side of Mt. Reynolds, to a little plateau between Pollock and Oberlin Mountains. The summit of the pass and the approaches to it are literally covered with wild flowers. From the western slope the trail continues along the Garden Wall a high, thin, saw-tooth ridge to Granite Park Chalets. The Many Glacier Region Returning now to the automobile highway at St. Mary Chalets, the journey continues along the shores of lower St. Mary Lake and up the Swiftcurrent valley to Many Glacier Hotel. From the automobile the tourist gets a com- prehensive view of Chief Mountain, Yellow. Appekunny and Altyn Mountains on the right of the road as the Swiftcurrent Valley is entered, while at the left Boulder Ridge, Point Mountain, and Mt. Al'en keep changing their outlines as the auto progresses along the winding road. The mountains become more spectacular, and their height is magnified, as the valley gradually contracts. The road apparently is approaching a solid stone wall thousands of feet high, and it would appear that no other exit from this narrow valley could possibly be made except by the same route that one enters. It is, however, due to the number and variety of side trips from this scenic center that the Many Glacier Region has become the principal focal point for trail trips. Ahead of the tourist are the massive, impen- etrable-looking walls of the Continental Divide. The mountain commanding the center of the picture is Grinnell; to the left of that is Gould Mountain, easily recognized by the wide band of colored rock near the top, and its roof-like for- mation. High up on the Garden Wall, the thin ridge connecting the two, is Grinnell Glacier. It is a shapely glacier not forbidding and repellant but inviting and friendly. The music of its cataracts calls to the tourists to come and play in its front yard among the flowers, rocks and moss on the terminal moraine. To the right of Grinnell Mountain is Swift- current Mountain, and in a depression or saddle between these two is Swiftcurrent Pass. The little Swiss-type log buildings on the right of the road are the Many Glacier Chalets, and crossing the rustic bridge below McDermott Falls, the road swings around a shoulder of rock an offshoot of Mt. Allen ending on the shores of Lake McDermott at Many Glacier Hotel. From the front porches of this hotel, an in- spiring mountain panorama is spread before the tourist, and those who find the walking and horseback tours too strenuous take a deep de- light in the ever-changing picture to be seen from the hotel itself. From here trails radiate in several directions and the question for the tourist to decide is which trip to make first. A comparatively short and easy side jaunt is that to Iceberg Lake, a two-hour journey from the hotel. A Miniature Polar Sea Iceberg Lake is a miniature Polar sea. This unique body of water makes a vivid impression. The little turquoise lake, covering perhaps 100 acres, is backed up with a head wall 3,000 feet above the surface of the water. It is never free from ice. During the warm days of July and August, huge chunks of ice break off the face of Page nineteen the glacier at the head of the lake and these icebergs float around for days before they melt or become sufficiently small to find their way over the falls at the outlet. This is a good place to get a view of mountain goats and big-horn sheep. They are frequently seen working their way along the ledges, feeding on the grass and moss. Up Canyon Creek to Cracker Lake In the opposite direction from the hotel is another favorite trip. The Cracker Lake trail follows Canyon Creek to its source in Cracker Lake at the head of the canyon formed by the high walls of Mt. Allen and Siyeh Mountain. The trail is a fascinating one, crossing and re- crossing the turbulent twistings of Canyon Creek. It is well for the tourist to take a fish rod along and try matching his skill against the mountain trout in the stream and lake. The canyon ends abruptly, further progress being blocked by the highly colored perpendicular wall of Siyeh Mountain. Grinnell Lake and Glacier Grinnell. Josephine and McDermott form a chain of glacier-fed lakes, the water source being the melted snow and ice of Grinnell Glacier. The trail skirts the edges of the lakes and it is a trip of but a few hours to the upper, or Grinnell Lake. Discharging from the face of Grinnell Glacier, three large cataracts tumble their waters down the steep slope into the lake. The milky appearance of the water indicates it is of glacial origin. The color is due to the fine silt and pulverized rock, the result of movement of the glacier. Piegan Pass and Morning Eagle Falls Piegan Pass trail is built along the west side of Mt. Allen, following the contour of the valley, to Grinnell Lake, and crossing a small wooded ridge, continues along Cataract Creek to Morn- ing Eagle Falls. The trip from Many Glacier Hotel to Morning Eagle Falls and return is rec- ommended to those who do not care for the higher altitudes. The trail, by means of switch- backs, makes its way above the falls to the sum- mit of the Pass. From here it follows the shale- rock slopes down to the timber line on Going-to- the-Sun mountain and continues on to St. Mary Lake and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. This is a trip of many marvelous miles of stupendous mountain scenery. From the summit of the Pass. Blackfeet Glacier is seen sparkling in the sunlight backed by the irregular peaks of Jack- son. Almost-a-dog. Citadel and Blackfeet moun- tains. Over Swiftcurrent Pass John Muir says: "Few places in the world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain passes. They kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action." No one should fail to go over Swif tcurrent Pass. A splendid trail from Many Glacier Hotel wan- ders along the Swiftcurrent River, between Grin- nell and Wilbur Mountains to the foot of Swift- current Mountain. Here it zig-zags up to Rocky Point, a sharp, projecting shoulder ot the moun- tain. From the summit of thia point, about two- thirds of the distance to the pass, an impressive view is obtained. Looking east down the Swift- current valley, nine lakes can be counted, the last one Duck Lake being twenty miles to the east on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Another mile brings one to the summit of the pass, and after crossing several large snow patches that re- fuse to submit to the rays of Old Sol, a signboard indicates that an altitude of 7 1 56 feet above level has been attained the top of the pass. Several shelf glaciers have been seen onthewa clinging to the east side of the mountain. De- scending the west side, a few minutes' ride, an two small stone chalets come into view, are the Granite Park chalets. Granite Park and Vicinity The trip to Granite Park chalets and back be made in one day, but to appreciate the beauty of the region no less than two days should be de- voted to it, as there are some short walking trips radiating from the Granite Park chalets. Another longer trip is the three-day triangle trip leaving Many Glacier Hotel the first day and going over Swiftcurrent Pass to Granite Park; on the second day going over Logan Pass to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets; and on the third day returning via Piegan Pass to Many Glac Hotel. Granite Park is a wide plateau bulging from the west side of the Continental wall, 6500 feet above sea level, at the edge of the timber line. Ahead of it is the wide, heavily-timbered Mc- Donald Valley. Directly across the deep green valley is Heaven's Peak, whose stately outlines are enhanced by the snow clinging to its sides like fine lint. A trail to the south takes one over Lo- gan Pass to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets; a foot trail leads to the Garden Wall, where one can see over the top of the wall, and look far down the Swiftcurrent and Cataract valleys, and onto Grinnell Glacier below. A Tumbled Mass of Peaks rea ay, ana utte. Another foot trail, requiring a walk of about an hour to the top of Swiftcurrent Mountain, will spread before the tourist one of the broadest, and most inspiring views in any land. To the sout beyond the goat-haunted ledges of the Ga Wall, the embattled summits of Haystack But Mt. Pollock, Mt. Brown, Oberlin and Cannon Mountains appear as a jumbled collection of discarded fortresses. To the north there is the same extravagant piling-up of resplendent, lofty ridges, the same unequal line of spires and peaks, of points and crags their deep sun-protected recesses, vast receptacles for the inevitable masses of eternal snow. Another fifteen-minute walk takes one to Rosenwald Ridge, just north of the chalets. Here an excellent view of Mt. Cleveland is obtained, as well as Trapper Peak. Vulture Peak, and other mountains to the north and west. Trails also lead from here to Lake McDonald on the South, and north to Waterton Lake. Page twenty 1 R. E. Marble HEAD OF LAKE McDONALD The mountain framing of the upper end of the lake is of distinctively Alpine character Page t w en ty -one LEWIS' (GLACIER) HOTEL Located on beautifully wooded slopes at the upper end of Lake McDonald are modern resort facilities Entering the Park at Belton Western Gateway Belton, Montana, is the railroad station at the western entrance to the Park. The Belton Cha- lets near the station provide accommodations for tourists waiting for trains or stage connections. An auto stage makes regular trips to the foot of Lake McDonald, connecting with launch service for resorts at the head of the lake. A wide ma- cadam road, built through a forest of heavy cedar and spruce, leads to the foot of Lake McDonald, three miles north of Belton. At the lower end of the lake the road swings to the left and continues up the valley of the North Fork of the Flathead River, to Bowman and Kintla Lakes. This road is not suitable for automobile travel, except for a few miles beyond Lake McDonald. On and Around Lake McDonald Lake McDonald is a mountain-framed body of water occupying the lower end of the McDonald Valley. It has an irregular shore line, heavily timbered, with a splendid grouping of mountains at the upper end. the principal ones being Mt. Vaught. 8.840 feet; Mt. Brown. 8.541 feet; and Cannon Mountain. 8.000 feet. The highest peak in this region is Edwards Mountain. 9,055 feet. McDonald Creek, heading on the Continental Divide near Trappers Peak, twenty-five miles north, comes rollicking down the valley between the mountains as though it was happy in its end- less task of keeping the lake well supplied with its matchless blue water. There is very good fishing in Lake McDonald as well as in the tributary streams. Two miles above the outlet of McDonald creek is Paradise Canyon, a rocky gorge very narrow and deep, with some attractive waterfalls in it. Avalanche Basin and Lake are a day's trip to the north. Avalanche Basin is one of the finest examples of a glacial cirque in the Park. The walls at the back of the basin are over three thou- sand feet high. At the top of this wall is Sperry Glacier and the melting ice of the glacier spills over the precipice in a half-dozen torrential streams. Most of the water reaches the lake, but a great quantity is blown away in mist as it dashes against the rocks in its downward plunge. From Lewis' Hotel a good trail is built around the south side of Edwards Mountain and up Sprague Creek to Sperry Glacier. This glacier covers about a square mile in area, and the sum- mit is comparatively flat. It is a four -hour trip from Lake McDonald, and the last mile of the journey must be made on foot up the almost perpendicular wall of the mountain. Those in- terested in studying glaciers will find Sperry easily accessible; the chalet close at hand will en- able one to spend several days, if he chooses, in examining it. One may look down into Ava- lanche Basin from its terminal moraine. Trout Lake, about eight miles west of Lake McDonald, is a favorite fishing place, and Snyder Lake four miles east is another angler's delight. Sperry Glacier Chalets are passed on the way to Sperry Glacier. Continuing east from the cha- lets, the trail finds its way out of the basin over Lincoln Divide and Gunsight Pass to Going-to- the-Sun chalets. Lake McDonald is also the starting point for camping trips up the North Fork of the Flathead Page t w e n t \ River, taking in Bowman and Kintla Lakes, crossing the Divide at Brown's Pass to Water- ton Lake, and either returning down McDonald Valley or crossing Swiftcurrent Pass and contin- uing the trip on the east side of the Park. Camping Trips in the North Country North of the Many Glacier region, there is a big area which but few people have seen. There be- ing no hotel accommodations, a camp outfit is re- quired in order to explore it. The first valley north of the Swiftcurrent is Kennedy. Continuing across Kennedy Valley and over the hump of Chief Mountain, the trail brings one into the Belly River Valley. Near the boundary of the Park, this river forks; one branch leads to Elizabeth and 1 I el en Lakes, fed by Ahern Glacier, the other leads to Glenns Lake whose source is Chancy Glacier on the Continental Di- vide. From the Belly River one can go by trail to Waterton Lake. The return trip is made down the Kootenai Valley to Granite Park and continued over Swiftcurrent Pass to Many Gla- cier Hotel, or on to Lake McDonald. Camping trips of short or long duration can be arranged for by giving the Park Saddle-Horse Company reasonable notice. A trip of a week or ten days is a pleasant diversion from the hotel and chalet life for those who like to do a little ex- ploring and wander off the beaten paths. The equipment used on these trips is designed to con- tribute to one's comfort as much as possible, con- sidering the limitations of pack-horse transporta- tion. Individual tents are used which accommo- date either one or two persons. Mattress pads are provided, cotton sheets may be had if desired. The charge for this service is based on the number of people in the party and includes horses, guides, tents, provisions, bedding, etc. Many interesting points in the park can be reached only by this means. A thirty-day camping trip will enable one to cover practically every trail in the park by moving camp every day. This is a delightful and, though somewhat strenuous, is a healthful and interesting form of outing. Personally-Conducted Saddle and Pack Trips Off the Beaten Paths A most enjoyable way of seeing Glacier National Park is to join an all-expense horseback camping party conducted by experienced guides authorized by the Government to personally es- cort such excursions. For the names and addresses of the licensees and other information concerning these "Roughing- it-in-comfort" trips, apply to National Park Ser- vice, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. ; or Manager of the Bureau of Service, Na- tional Parks and Monuments; or Travel Bureau, Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111. Ideal for Walking Tours Walking as a recreation has become a popular pastime. Glacier National Park is unusually adapted to this kind of an outing. Its varied scenery and convenient facilities contribute to the comfort and pleasure of the hiker For those who follow the trails afoot, the hotels and chalets, located at reasonable intervals, provide shelter and food, so that a night need not be spent in the open, nor need heavy packs be carried. For those who would combine walking and rid- ing, excellent automobile and launch service is available, thus enabling one to proceed easily and quickly to the various centers of scenic interest, and from these points to penetrate the interior of the Park afoot. As an interesting diversion, one can make some of the longer trips over the trails on horseback. The mountain paths are so charming; they wander about so capriciously; they run so mer- rily over the moss in the woods and beside the babbling brooks; they climb so cheerfully up the s opes and hillsides, and lead you through so much freshness and perfume and varied scenery, that the pleasures of sight soon make one obliv- ious of bodily fatigue. Park Administration Glacier National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Service, Washing- ton, D. C., Department of the Interior. The headquarters of the superintendent are located at Belton, Montana. Open Season The tourist season is from June 1 5 to Septem- ber 15. Hotel and transportation facilities are available during this period. How to Reach the Park Glacier Park station, Mont., the principal and eastern entrance, is 1 ,081 miles west of St. Paul, a ride of thirty-four hours. Belton, Mont., the western entrance, is 637 miles east of Seattle, a ride of twenty-two hours. Good train service is available from Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Denver, Port- land, Tacoma, Seattle and Spokane, connecting with trains from all other sections. Excursion Fares During the summer season, round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at practically all stations in the United States and Canada to Gla- cier Park as a destination. Tickets reading to Glacier Park station will be honored to or from Belton, and tickets reading to Belton will be hon- ored to or from Glacier Park station, at option of passengers and without additional charge. From same sections excursion tickets are also sold to Glacier Park which permit opportunity to visit Yellowstone National Park, enabling passengers to make circuit tours of these two parks and, if journeying through Colorado, side-trips to Rocky Mountain and Mesa Verde National Parks if desired. Passengers wishing to visit Glacier National Park en route to other destinations, may stop over at Glacier Park station or at Belton on round-trip or one-way tickets. Baggage Passengers should be careful to make sure their baggage is checked to the point they intend to enter the Park either Glacier Park station or Belton. Storage charges on baggage at Glacier Park station and at Belton will be waived for actual length of time consumed by passengers in making Park tours. Page twenty -three UMITtD STATCS-DOHINlON Of CANADA COUNDARr UHl -- ! _"^" T"| ...... *.^f ^:^P^ ^^^^^ 1 ^- m, j: ! cr-r?^ \^P v/g6/. d' -*'H^r ,1 ,> Gun,,, h , M .'S5' 1 fetf^ar-cw^ cat Lndmg5 NOTE Di:Unct btlwt to Glacltr Park SI*. BHor Sli b, railroad SB GLACIER NATIONAL PARK MONTANA Scale Railroads Automobile Roads *ya/n Trails Other Trails Park Transportation Facilities Automobile stages on the roads, launches on the lakes, and saddle horses over the trails, are the means of transportation. Glacier Park Hotel. Two Medicine Chalets. Cut Bank and St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier 1 lotel are all on the automobile highway. Going-to-the-Sun Chalets are reached by launch from St. Mary chalets. Lake McDonald is reached by auto stages from Belton connecting with launches for resorts up the lake. There are so many trips available that few people can stay long enough to enjoy them all. For this reason several combination tours are shown in this book. Five hundred saddle horses are required to meet the demand for trail trips. These sure- footed ponies are trained for mountain trails and will carry one up the steepest places and over the summits. It is this diversity of transportation facilities and variety of tours that have been prominent factors in the popularity of Glacier National Park. Page twenty-four Hotel and Chalet Rates and Accommodations Glacier Park Hotel: Located at Glacier Park Station, eastern entrance to the Park. 200 rooms, accommodations for over 400 people electric lighted, steam heat, room telephones, running water, laundry, rooms with private bath, cuisine and service of high order, plunge pool, shower baths, sun par- lor, open camp fire in lobby, lounging and music room, a la carte grill room. New Many Glacier Motel: Located 55 miles north of Glacier Park Hotel, on scenic automobile highway. Automobile stage service to and from Glacier Park Hotel daily. This new hotel contains accommodations for 500 guests electric lighted, steam heated, room telephones, laundry, rooms with private bath- plunge pool open camp fires in lobby In- dian room cafe. Starting point for trail trips. Rates at Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel $4.50 and $5.00 without bath, dependent on location. $5.50. $6.00. $7.00 and $8.00 per day with bath, depend- ent on location. Ametican plan, operated by the Glacier Park Hotel Company. Glacier Park. Mont, or 1 030 Rail- road Building. St. Paul. Minn. Glacier Park Hotel Company's Chalet Groups: Throughout Glacier National Park, distant from ten to sixteen miles from each other, the Glacier Park Hotel Company maintains and operates the following perma- nent chalets, or small hotels. Rates at all chalets $4.00 per day. American plan, viz.: $1.00 for meals and $1.00 for lodging. Two Medicine Chalets: Command a view of the mountains and lakes of the Two Medicine Country, reached by automobile, horseback, or afoot. 12 miles from Glacier Park Hotel. Electric lighted, detached shower or tub baths. 5G cents. Capac- ity 100 guests. Cut Bank Chalets: Located in the Cut Bank Valley. 22 miles from Glacier Park Hotel, a popular rendezvous for fishermen. From this camp it is a day's side trip to Triple Divide Mountain, where the water flows three ways. Capacity 45 guests. St. Mary Chalets: Located on lower end of upper St. Mary Lake. 32 miles from Glacier Park Hotel. The going-in point for tourists visiting the Going-to-the-Sun Chalet. Side trip is made from here to Red Eagle Lake, a popular fishing trip. Electric lighted, detached shower or tub baths. 50 cents. Capacity 125 guests. Going-to-the-Sun Chalets: Located on the northwest shore of St. Mary Lake, nine miles up lake from St. Mary Chalets, commanding a view of the Continental Divide. Reached by boat from St. Mary Chalets, or afoot or horseback from interior points. Detached shower or tub baths. 50 cents, electric lighted. Capacity 150 guests. Many Glacier Chalets: Located one-eighth of a mile from the new Many Glacier Hotel. Side trips from this point same as from Many Glacier Hotel. Detached shower or tub baths at hotel, 50 cents. Capacity 100 guests. Electric lighted. Cha- let guests take meals in main dining room of Many Gla- cier Hotel. V Granite Park Chalets: Located on the west side of the Continental Divide in Granite Park. Reached by horseback or afoot from Many Glacier Hotel via Swiftcurrent Pass. Capacity 60 guests. Sperry Glacier Chalets: Located on the west side of the Continental Divide, near Sperry Glacier. Reached by horseback or afoot from Going-to-the-Sun Chalets or Lake McDonald. Capac- ity 75 guests. Belton Chalets: Located on the railroad at Belton station, the western entrance to the Park, three miles from Lake McDonald, fifty-eight miles west of Glacier Park station. Detached hower or tub baths. 50 cents. Capacity 125 guests. Furnished Chalets For Rent: At Many Glacier there are three chalets which are fur- nished and equipped for housekeeping, and which are for rent by the month or season. Each of these contains bed- rooms, kitchenette and shower bath, and has accommoda- tions for 6 to 1 2 people. Linen and firewood are included in the furnishings; supplies may be purchased at the Many Glacier Store. Rates for rental of these chalets may be obtained upon application. Medical Service: A physician is located at the Glacier Park Hotel. A trained nurse is stationed at Glacier Park Hotel, another at Many Glacier Hotel. Their services are available at all times at standard professional rates. A line of medical and surgical supplies is carried in the dispensary at each hotel. Rates for Children: The following rates are authorized for children at the above hotels and chalets when accompanied by parents or guardians: Children five years of age and over, full rate. Children under five years of age, one-half rate. Lake McDonald Resorts: There is one large hotel and two cottage resorts on Lake McDonald on west side of park, reached from Belton via auto road and launch. Lewis' (Glacier) Hotel: At upper end of Lake; accommodations for 225 guests; electric lighted; steam heat; laundry; rooms with private bath. Starting point for trail trips. Rates: $4.00 and $5.00 per day; with bath $6.00 per day. American plan. J E. Lewis, Proprietor, Lake McDonald. Mont. Park Cabin Resort: At head of Lake McDonald. Several log cottages and central dining room. Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per day. James Conlon (trustee). Proprietor. Belton. Mont. National Park Cabin Resort: At foot of Lake McDonald. Log cabins for rent. No dining room. Rates on application. H. D. Apgar. Proprietor. Belton. Mont. Open Season: The season is June 15th to September 15th, and the hotels are open at that time. Some years on account of heavy snowfall, Sperry Chalets and Granite Park Chalets are not opened until a week or two later. Lewis' Hotel opens June 1st. Telegraph and Telephone Service: Glacier Park Station and Belton are Western Union Tele- graph offices and service is available from all hotels and chalets in connection with the Park Telephone System. Mail: Guests stopping at hotels and chalets on the east side should have mail addressed care of Glacier Park Hotel, Glacier Park, Mont. this is the post office for Glacier Park and Many Glacier Hotels, and the Chalets. Mail for Lake McDonald resorts should be addressed to Lake McDonald P. O.. Mont., or to Belton. Clothing Suggestions: Light-weight woolen underwear or heavy cotton under- wear is recommended; wool is preferable as the weather may be quite warm on the lower levels but cool on the summits of the passes. If one contemplates buying special outing clothing, the brown khaki is most econom- ical and serviceable. It is light in weight, and as it is tightly woven, keeps out the wind and to a limited ex- tent, will shed water. For either horseback riding or walking, the khaki riding breeches are recommended for both men and women. Stout shoes or outing boots, canvas leggings or leather puttees, a pair of gloves and a comfortable old soft hat. complete the outfit. A heavy outer wrap should be pro- vided, such as a sweater or mackinaw. A very complete line of suitable clothing is for sale at the stores in the hotels at reasonable prices. Page twenty-jive A BLACKFEET INDIAN CAMP I he Blackfeet Indians have left a lasting impress of their occupation on this region, many mountains and lakes bearing their original Indian na Page twenty-six ST. MARY LAKE At St. Mary Chalets Transfer is made from autos to a sturdy launch for the trip up the lake Automobile and Launch Service The Glacier Park Transportation Company is licensed by the United States Government to operate automobile stages within the Park. Comfortable ten-passenger auto stages are used. These stages run on regular schedules as follows: Between Glacier Park Hotel, St. Mary, and Many Glacier Hotel. Northbound Daily Leave Glacier Park ... 8:00 a. m. Arrive St. Mary Chalets 10:45 a. m. Leave St. Mary Chalets 1 1 :00 a. m. Arrive Many Glacier Hotel 12:45 p. m. Southbound Daily Leave Many Glacier Hotel 1 :30 p. m. Arrive St. Mary Chalets 3:15 p. m. Leave St. Mary Chalets 3:30 p. m. Arrive Glacier Park Hotel 6:15 p. m. As soon as traffic warrants additional service is provided, leaving Glacier Park Hotel at 1 :30 5 . M., arriving at Many Glacier Hotel at 6:15 P. M., and leaving Many Glacier Hotel at 8:00 A. M., arriving at Glacier Park Hotel at 12:45 P. M. Between Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medi- cine Chalets: Leave Glacier Park Hotel 2:00 p. m. Arrive Two Medicine Chalets 3:00 p. m. Leave Two Medicine Chalets 4:00 p. m. Arrive Glacier Park Hotel 5.00 p. m. Passenger Fares One Round Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets . $3.50 $7.00 Glacier Park Hotel and Many Glacier Hotel . 6.50 1 3.00 St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Hotel . . 3.00 6.00 Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medicine Cha- lets 1 50 3.00 *Glacier Park Hotel and Cut Bank Chalets ' 5.00 Bel ton and Lake McDonald 50 1.00 *Rate applies only for minimum of 4 fare*. Baggage Transportation : The following rates apply for the transportation of bag- gage between points in Glacier National Park, via auto express service. Auto stages are not equipped to handle heavy baggage and same must go on first auto truck fol- lowing. Passengers touring Park will be permitted to carry with them free on automobiles, stages or launches, one piece of hand baggage weighing not to exceed 20 pounds. BETWEEN Baggage Rate I runk Grip Glacier Park Hotel and Two Medicine Cha- lets . ..$1.00 $ .50 Glacier Park Hotel and St. Mary Chalets . 2.00 .50 Glacier Park Hotel and Many-Glacier Cha- 4 00 I 00 lets 4.00 1.00 Glacier Park Hotel and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets 2 50 I 00 St. Mary Chalets and Going-to-the-Sun Cha- lets 50 .25 St. Mary Chalets and Many Glacier Chalets 2 00 .50 Belton Chalets and Lewis' Hotel . .1.00 .50 Belton Chalets and Foot of Lake McDonald .50 .25 Foot of Lake McDonald and Head of Lake McDonald 50 .25 Freight Rates on Automobiles Between Glacier Park Station and Belton: An automobile highway has been perfected through from Duluth. St. Paul, Minneapolis and Grand Forks. N. D.. to Glacier Park Station. From here to Belton there is no road. From Belton, Mont., the automobile highway continues west to Spokane and the Pacific Coast For the convenience of automobilists making the overland trip in their cars the Railroad will have in effect during the Park season a rate of $12.50 for transporting auto- mobiles between Glacier Park Station and Belton in either direction. Launch Service: Between St. Mary Chalets and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets on St. Mary Lake, and between the foot of Lake Mc- Donald and head of lake, launches are operated, connect- ing with auto stages. Launch fare each way $ .75 P a %e twenty-seven Saddle Horse, Pack Horse and Guide Rates The Park Saddle Horse Company furnishes saddle horses, pack horses and guides under con- cession from the United States Government. Scheduled Trips Minimum Rate number per required n party From Glacier Park Hotel: *To Mt. Henry and return 1 -day trip . .$4.00 *To Two Medicine and return 2-day trip via Mt. Henry in one direction 8.00 3 Inside Trail Trip via Two Medicine. Mt. Morgan. Cut Bank Chalet*. Triple Divide. Red Eagle Lake. St. Mary Cha- lets. Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel A 5-day scenic trip 18.00 5 Same trip as far as St. Mary Chalets only 3-day trip 13.25 5 From Many Glacier Hotel: *Iceberg Lake and return I -day trip. . . . 3.50 Granite Park and return 2-day trip. . . . 8.00 Granite Park and return 1-day trip 5.00 *Cracker Lake and return 1-day trip . . . 3.50 I Morning Eagle Falls, Piegan Pass and re- turn I -day trip 4.00 I Going-to-the-Sun Chalets via Piegan Pass one way I -day trip 4.00 I tLogan Pass Triangle Trip via Granite Park. Logan Pass. Going-to-the-Sun and Piegan Pass and vice versa 3-day trip. 12. 50 *Ptarmigan Lake and return 1-day trip 4 00 *Grinnell Lake and return ^i-d&y trip . 3.50 Grinnell Glacier and return 1-day trip . 4.00 3 From Going-to-the-Sun Chalets: Many Glacier Hotel via Piegan Pass .... 4.00 tTriangle Trip: via Logan Pass, Granite Park. Swiftcurrent Pass. Many Glacier and Piegan Pass or vice versa 3-day trip 12.50 *Sexton Glacier and return %-/ 1 HE NATIONAL PARKS AT A GLANCE For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following United States Railroad Administration Consolidated Ticket Offices. Beaumont, Tex. .Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St. Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. Ill \75 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs. Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St. 601 \7th St. a 403 Walnut St. ..334 W. Superior St. . Mills and Oregon Sts. 702 Houston St. . . . . J and Fresno Sts. .21st and Market Sts. 58 S. Main St. . . .904 Texas Ave. Denver. Colo . . Des Moines, lo Duluth, Minn. . . El Paso. Tex .... Ft. Worth. Tex . . Fresno, Cal Galveston, Tex . . Helena, Mont. . . Houston, Tex . . . Kansas City, Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J. . . 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md . . .B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston, Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y., Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati. Ohio.. .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland, Ohio . . . 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St Dayton, Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. WEST Lincoln, Neb 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach, Cal. .L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles, Cal.. ..215 S. Broadway Milwaukee, Wis 99 Wisconsin St Minneapolis, Minn. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland, Cal. .13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City, Okla. 1 3 I W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St Peoria. 111. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland. Ore.. 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo.. ..401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo.. 3 18-3 28 North Broadway EAST Detroit. Mich ... I 3 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 1 25 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 112-14 English Block Newark, N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y I 1 4 W. 42d St. SOUTH Asheville. N. C Atlanta, Ga Augusta. Ga Birmingham. Ala 14 S. Polk Square] Knoxville. Tenn 74 Peachtree St. 811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave. ....... . Charleston, S. C ...... Charleston Hotel Charlotte. N. C ........ 22 S. Tryon St. Chattanooga. Tenn...8l7 Market St. Columbia. S. C ....... Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla ....... 38 W. Bay St. Lexington, Ky . Louisville. Ky . . Lynchburg. Va . Memphis. Tenn Mobile. Ala .... Montgomery, Ala 600 Gay St. Union Station 4th and Market Sts. 722 Main St. 60 N. Main St. 5 1 S. Royal St. Exchange Hotel Nashville.Tenn., Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La . . . .St. Charles Hotel St. Paul. Minn . .4th and Jackson Sta. Sacramento. Cal.. . . 801 K St. Salt Lake. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Texas 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal. Lick Bldg., Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal., I stand San Fernando Sts. Seattle, Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La..Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City, Iowa 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash ... I I 17-19 Pacific Ave. Waco. Texas . . . .6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal . . . .L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg, Man 226 Portage Ave. Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa ... Reading. Pa Rochester. N. Y. . . Syracuse. N. Y. . . , Toledo, Ohio Washington. D. C. Williamsport. Pa . . Wilmington. Del . . .1539 Chestnut St. . .Arcade Building .. ..16 N. Fifth St. 20 State St. ..University Block .320 Madison Ave ..1229 FSt. N. W. 4th and Pine Sts. . ..905 Market St. Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga .. ..37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla . ..Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. 1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western lines, 646 Transportation Bldg.. Chicago, or any Railroad Ticket Agent. McGill-Warner Co., Printers St. Paul, Minn. Page thirty-one if. ^A ii i CANYON AND FALLS IN SWIFTCURRENT VALLEY GRAND CANYON National UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION NAL PAR.K. SF The Titan of Chasm* inexpressible you must see it to understai P a & e two A Cosmic Intaglio An Appreciation of Grand Canyon National Park By Charles F. Lummis Author of "The Land of Poco Tiempo," "Some Strange Corners of Our Country," "Pueblo Indian Folk Stoiies," etc. ]N the very cradle of recorded Time, the Grand Canyon was waiting, under the Slow Smile of God, for Man to come to it and know His chiefest Wonder-vision on earth ; this vast chameleon, unearthly, attainable, Mirage in Immortal Rock. Through milleniums it has been worshipful and awe-full to the bronzed First Americans, whose swallow-nesting homes still crumble along that amethystine "Rim/' Caucasians were late of coming though to us parvenus it seems long ago, in years and world-change. When Coro- nado's lieutenant, Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, first of Europeans, stood upon this Brink (September 14, 1540), Luther was walking the floor with his fretful Reformation, just cutting its teeth. Henry VIII. was still adding new reels to his kinema of wives. His seven-year-old daughter Bess was learning never to lose her head (as Mamma had done), and to have no heart to lose. She staid unmarried as many times as Papa didn't. It was forty years before Raleigh spread his cape for her. It was a generation before Shakespeare, and two before Milton; seventy years before English was spoken in any home in all the New World. There was not a printed Bible, except in Latin; and the King James version was nigh seventy years to the future. It was three centuries before the first friction match; over two hundred years before Ben Franklin invented the first cook-stove; twenty-five years before the first forks and steel needles. It was a world without kerosene, wire cigars, potatoes, corn, whisky, side-saddles, public schools and libraries, quinine, rifles, tin cans, turkeys, newspapers, novels, vaccination without even the sacred symbol, $. As to the Franciscan missionaries it was a week before our Declaration of Independence that Fray Francisco Garces (first of Europeans) saw the Canyon from the West. In the same month that General Howe defeated Washington's forces at White Plains, Fray Sylvestre Velez de Escalante P a & e three was first white man to cross (October 7, 1776) the chasm and its head- long river. Major Powell's heroic threadings of that fearsome Labyrinth (1869-70) marked the first serious attention of "Americans" to the most wondrous thing in America; but his notable volumes precipitated no pilgrimage. Thirty-five years ago, when I began my 'prenticeship to the Canyon, not a hundred people a year saw it and ten Englishmen to one American. Today (most thanks to the builders of the steel highway), it is famous and luxuriously accessible yet 95 per cent of the travelers passing within sixty miles never visit it! As it was I who first raised (a third of a century ago) the slogan, "See America First!" it now falls my privilege to extend this official invitation to the opening of the Grand Canyon, at last a National Park, guarded by Government; a heritage unto our children's children forever. I doubt not it has the very humility of its transcendent greatness, and patiently enjoys our little "Recognition" and "Honor." The Grand Canyon Bids You! Come, all ye Peoples of the Earth, to witness God's boldest and most flaming Signature across Earth's face! Come and penitent ye of the United States, to marvel upon this chiefest Miracle of our own land! Ten thousand pens have "described at" this Indescribable, in vain, is alone in the world. The only Mountain Range in Captivity a hundred miles of unearthly peaks, taller from their gnawing river than Mt. Wash- ington above the distant sea; all countersunk in a prodigious serpentine gulf of living rock; a Cosmic Intaglio carved in the bosom of the great Arizona Plateau. Nowhere else can you look up hundreds of 7,000-foot cliffs whose tops are but three miles from a plummet to your feet. And from their Rim, look down upon such leagues of inverted and captive sk : es of rainbows in solution, and snow and thunder tempests far below you; -and brimming fogs that flow with the moon, and with dawn ebb and ebb till one by one the white, voiceless tide reveals the glorified "islands" of its countless archipelago of glowing peaks. It is a matchless cross-section of Earth's anatomy, to the geologist. To all, it is a Poem ; History ; an imperishable Inspiration. Words cannot over-tell it nor half tell. See it, and you will know why ! It has waited long to give you welcome and benediction and a deathless Memory. Come ! P a c f o u To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Grand Canyon National Park Grand Canyon National Park, in north- ern Arizona, is the newest of bur national playgrounds, having been brought into the National Park family by Act of Con- gress, February 26, 1919. One comes upon it suddenly, only a short distance from the railroad terminus a titanic gash in the earth's crust, an unexpected step- off in the wooded mesa country. Imagine a stupendous chasm, in places ten to thirteen miles wide from rim to rim, more than two hundred miles long in the total of its meanderings, and more than a mile deep. A mighty river, the Colorado, has chiseled out the inner granite gorge, which is flanked on each side by tier upon tier of huge architect- ural forms veritable mountains carved by erosion from the solid rock strata which lie exposed in great layers to the desert sun. And all painted in colors of the rainbow. That's the Grand Canyon. Other scenic wonders are viewed either on the level or looking up. The Grand Canyon, from the rim, is looked down upon. The sensation is novel abso- lutely unique, in fact. Not every visitor can at once adjust untrained eyes to this sudden shift from the usual outlook. Gradually one must become accustomed to the change from the ordinary range of vision. It is like seeing a landscape from a low-flying aeroplane. Descend by trail, and, one after another, the Canyon forms seem to creep upward, until soon they take their place in familiar fashion along the horizon. Not until then do they assume a natural aspect. As first glimpsed from the very edge of the abyss, the Canyon is a geologic marvel and a spiritual emotion. Below is a primeval void, hemmed in every- where, except skyward, by the solid framework of our earth rocks, and rocks, and yet more rocks, millions of years old. At high noon the enclosing walls seem to flatten out and are strangely unim- pressive. They lack life and luster and form. They are wholly material and make scant appeal to the emotions. One is aware of bigness and deepness and stillness, but not of any mystery. Come back to the edge of the abyss in the late afternoon, or early in the morn- ing. How marvelous the transformation! Immense forms have pushed out from the sheer walls. They float in a purple sea of mysterious shadows. It is a symphony of mass and color, of body and soul. Almost a new heaven is born and, with it, a new inferno, swathed in soft celestial fires; a whole chaotic underworld, just emptied of primeval floods and waiting for a new creative word; eluding all sense of perspective or Pa & e five Pa El Tovar Hotel on the brink of the Canyon. The Lookout it a quaint rough atone observatory and ret houce on the rim near head of Bright Angel Trail. e six dimension, outstretching the faculty of measurement, overlapping the confines of definite apprehension; a boding, terrible thing, unflinchingly real, yet spectral as a dream. Never was picture more har- monious, never flower more exquisitely beautiful. It flashes instant communi- cation of all that architecture and paint- ing and music for a thousand years have gropingly striven to express. Thus speaks the Grand Canyon to almost every person who comes within the magic circle of its perpetual allure- ment. Joaquin Miller affirms that at the Canyon color is king. William Winter calls it "this surpassing wonder," and Hamlin Garland is most impressed by its thousand differing moods. John Muir sums it up in a striking phrase "wildness so Godful, cosmic, primeval." Possibly a little girl expressed the inexpressible most simply when she remarked that it is so beautiful she would like to live here always. A Canyon Within a System of Canyons A canyon, truly, but not after the accepted type. An intricate system of canyons, rather, each subordinate to the river channel in the center, which in its turn is subordinate to the whole effect. That river channel, the profoundest depth, and actually more than six thousand feet below the point of view, is in seeming a rather insignificant trench, attracting the eye more by reason of its somber tone and mysterious suggestion than by any appreciable characteristic of a chasm. It is perhaps five miles distant in a straight line, and its uppermost rims are nearly four thousand feet beneath the observer. One cannot believe the dis- tance to be more than a mile as the crow flies, before descending the wall. Yet the immediate chasm itself is only the first step of a long terrace that leads down to the innermost gorge and the river. Roll a heavy stone to the rim and let it go. It falls the height of the Eiffel tower, and explodes like a bomb on a projecting ledge. If any considerable fragments remain they bound onward, snapping trees like straws; bursting, crashing down the declivities until they make a last plunge over the brink of a void; and then there comes languidly up the cliff-sides a faint, distant roar, and your boulder lies scattered as wide as Wycliffe's ashes, although the final frag- ment has lodged only a little way, so to speak, below the rim. The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the outside world and its accustomed standards, it is with difficulty one can acquire any notion of its immensity. Were it half as deep, half as broad, it would be no less be- wildering, so utterly does it baffle human grasp. The terrific deeps that part the walls of hundreds of castles and turrets of mountainous bulk may be approximately located in barely discernible penstrokes of detail. The comparative insignificance of what are termed grand sights in other parts of the world is now clearly revealed. Overmastering Charm of the Panorama Still, such particulars cannot long hold the attention, for the panorama is the real overmastering charm. It is never twice the same. The scene incessantly changes, flushing and fading, advancing into crystalline clearness, retiring into slumberous haze. Should it chance to have rained heavily in the night, next morning the Canyon may be completely filled with fog. As the sun mounts, the curtain of mist suddenly breaks into cloud fleeces, and while you gaze these fleeces rise and dissipate, leaving the Canyon bare. At once around the bases of the lowest cliffs white puffs begin to appear and their number multiplies until once more they rise and overflow the rim, and it is as if you stood on some land's end looking down upon a formless void. Then quickly comes the complete dissipation, and again the marshaling in the depths, the upward advance, the total suffusion and the speedy vanishing, repeated over and over until the warm walls have ex- pelled their saturation. It is, indeed, a place created by some magician's wand. Long may the visitor loiter upon the verge, powerless to shake loose from the charm, until the sun is low in the West. Then the Canyon sinks into mysterious purple shadow, the far Shinumo Altar is tipped with a golden ray, and against a leaden horizon the long line of the Echo Cliffs reflects a soft brilliance of inde- P a A f- seven Opposite Ell Tovar Hotel is a replica of a Hopi Indian house. scribable beauty, a light that, elsewhere, surely never was on sea or land. Then darkness falls, and should there be a moon, the scene in part revives in silver light, a thousand spectral forms pro- jected from inscrutable gloom; dreams of mountains, as in their sleep they brood on things eternal. The River as Viewed From Foot of the Trails The traveler stands upon a sandy rift, confronted by nearly vertical walls many hundred feet high, at whose base a tawny torrent pitches in a giddying, onward slide, that gives him momentarily the sensation of slipping into an abyss. Dwarfed by such prodigious mountain shores, which rise immediately from the water at an angle that would deny footing to a mountain sheep, it is not easy to estimate confidently the width and vol- ume of the river. Choked by the stub- born granite, its width is probably between 250 and 300 feet, its velocity fifteen miles an hour, and its volume and turmoil equal to the Whirlpool Rapids of Niagara. Its rise in time of heavy rain is rapid and appalling, for the walls shed almost instantly all the water that falls upon them. Drift is lodged in the crevices thirty feet overhead. For only a few hundred yards is the tortuous stream visible, but its effect upon the senses is perhaps the greater for that reason. Issuing as from a mountain side, it slides with oily smooth- ness for a space and suddenly breaks into violent waves that comb back against the current and shoot unexpectedly here and there, while the volume sways, tide- like, from side to side, and long curling breakers form and hold their outline lengthwise of the shore, despite the seem- ingly irresistible velocity of the water. The river is laden with drift (huge tree trunks), which it tosses like chips in its terrible play. As it is Written in the Archives The Colorado is one of the great rivers of North America. Formed in Southern Utah by the confluence of the Green and the Grand, it intersects the northwestern corner of Arizona, and flows southward until it reaches tidewater in the Gulf of California. It drains a territory of 300,000 square miles. At three points, Needles, Parker and Yuma on the Cali- fornia boundary, it is crossed by a rail- road. Elsewhere its course lies far from the routes of common travel. The early Spanish explorers at first reported it in 1 540. Again in 1 776, a Spanish priest found a crossing at a Fade e i & h t The Grand Canyon is the most instructive example of one of the chief factors of earth-building erosion. Pa A e nine place that still bears the name "Vado de los Padres." For more than eighty years thereafter the Big Canyon remained unvisited except by the Indian, the Mormon herdsman, and the trapper, although the Sitgreaves expedition of 1851, journeying westward, struck the river about one hundred and fifty miles above Yuma, and Lieutenant Whipple in 1854 made a survey for a practicable railroad route along the thirty-fifth parallel, where a railroad afterwards was constructed. In 1857 the War Department dis- patched an expedition in charge of Lieutenant Ives to explore the Colorado upstream to the head of navigation. Ives ascended to the head of Black Canyon; then returning to the Needles, he set off northeast across country. He reached the Canyon at Diamond and Cataract Creeks in the spring of 1858, and made a wide southward detour around the San Francisco Peaks, thence to the Hopi Pueblos, to Fort Defiance, and back to civilization. It remained for a geologist and a school-teacher, a one-armed veteran of the Civil War, John Wesley Powell, afterward director of the United States Geological Survey, to dare and to ac- complish the exploration of the mighty river. In 1869 Major Powell started with nine men and four boats from Green River City, in Utah. Powell launched his flotilla on May 24th, and on August 30th landed at the mouth of the Virgin River, more than one thousand miles by river channel from starting place, minus two boats and four men. There proved to be no impassable whirlpools in the Grand Canyon, no underground passages and no cataracts. But the trip was hazardous in the extreme. The adventurers faced the unknown at every bend, daily, often several times daily, embarking upon swift rapids without guessing upon what rocks or in what great falls they might terminate. Con- tinually they upset. Again, in 1871, he started down river with three boats and went as far as the Crossing of the Fathers. In the summer of 1872 he returned to the row boats at Lee's Ferry, and descended as far as the mouth of Kanab Wash, where the river journey was abandoned. Powell's journal of the initial trip is a most fascinating tale, written in a com- pact and modest style, which, in spite of its reticence, tells an epic story of purest heroism. It definitely established the scene of his exploration as the most wonderful geological and spectacular phenomenon known to mankind, and justified the name which had been bestowed upon it the Grand Canyon. F Jrrrnit Rim F ilevard on the very brink of the Grand Canyon. P a % e te El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Cottages from Maricopa Point. Since that day several expeditions have traversed the same route, each experienc- ing thrills enough for a lifetime. Powell easily ranks at the top of the list. Not only was he a pioneer, but his daring was for the sake of scientific knowledge. Canyon Geology The average man measures long per- iods of time by centuries. The geologist reckons otherwise. To him a hundred years are but the tick of a clock, the passing of a summer cloud. He deals in aeons as others do in minutes, and thus is able to measure, after a fashion, almost inconceivable time. Searching for a convenient yardstick, the building of our earth is first thought of as divided into four eras. Periods are lesser divisions of the eras. In the pro- terozoic era there are two periods archaean and algonkian. The "paleozoic P a eleven era has six periods the cambrian, ordo- vician, silurian, devonian, carboniferous and permian. The mesozoic era divides into the triassic, Jurassic and cretaceous periods. The cenozoic era has five periods eocene, oligocene, miocene, pliocene and pleistocene. These four periods particularly must be borne in mind, because they are the primer of Canyon geology, viz., the archaean, algonkian, cambrian and carboniferous rocks, which are among the very oldest of earth's strata. The later rocks un- doubtedly were here once nearly 12,000 feet of them on top of what today is top, but in some remote age they were shaved off. Yet the Canyon itself is accounted geologically modern. It happened, so scientists say, only yesterday. Stand almost anywhere on the south rim and look at the north wall, which is the southern limit of the Kaibab plateau. That north rim is three times as far from the Colorado River as is the south rim, and is 1,000 to 1,500 feet higher, viz., 5,500 to 6,000 feet above the river, compared with 4,500 feet. It is like a section of layer cake, each layer of different material and color or like gigantic beds of titanic masonry. Begin at the top and go down. For the first 3,000 feet or more, the wall descends by cliffs, steep slopes and narrow ledges. Next comes a wide terrace, the Tonto platform. Lastly appears the inner granite gorge, V-shaped and 1,000 to 1,200 feet deep, with the river flowing at the bottom in a trench 250 to 300 feet wide. The light buff formation at the top is the Kaibab limestone. Beneath this is another light-colored formation, the crossbedded Coconino gray sandstone, presenting a sheer face. The next is of bright red color, due to oxide of iron; it consists of alternating beds of hard sandstone cliff and soft shale slopes, about 1,100 feet thick, and known as the Supai formation. Farther down is the Red wall or "blue" limestone, 550 feet thick and very hard, so finely grained it seems to be a single bed; its precipitous cliffs are stained red by wash from the strata above; in this formation occurs Jacob's Ladder, on Bright Angel Trail, and Cathedral Stairs, on Hermit Trail. These were laid down during the car- boniferous period. The horizontal formations below the red wall form the Tonto group, of the Cambrian period. In order, from top to bottom, they are Muav limestone, thin-banded and grayish green; Bright Angel shale, 325 feet; and the basic rocks Tapeats sandstone, hard and brown, forming the floor of the Tonto platform. Where Hermit Road ends and Hermit Trail begin* is a unique rest house called Hermit's Rest. P a A e twelve The '.'Devil's Corkscrew" it a spiral pathway down an almost perpendicular wall on the Bright Angel Trail. P a & e thirteen You may notice that these strata are not at the same height everywhere. This is due to fractures or "faults," along which the rocks on one side are much lower than on the other. All these nearly horizontal strata rest on a level surface of archaean and algonkian rocks, through which the river has cut a lower inner gorge. That, in brief, is what you see today. Geologists agree that the rocks of each period represent an uplift and subsidence of the upper crust, extending over in- calculable time, each subsidence being followed by sedimentary deposits on the sea bottom, ultimately forming a new series of rocks. Imagine this huge mass, say three and a half miles thick, gradually lifted up, and forming a plateau with an area of 13,000 to 15,000 square miles. The top two-thirds, except an isolated butte here and there, was next eliminated by erosion, and then the Colorado River began to cut the Grand Canyon through the lower third. Nobody knows to what extent, if any, earthquake disturbances originally may have helped to make the Grand Canyon, but the masterful influence of erosion is plainly to be seen. The Canyon has not stopped changing. Every decade it gets a fraction deeper and wider, by erosion only. Roadside erosion is familiar to us all. A hundred times we have idly noted the fantastic water-carved walls and minar- etted slopes of ordinary ditches. But seldom, perhaps, have we realized that the muddy roadside ditch and the world- famous Grand Canyon of the Colorado River are, from Nature's standpoint, identical; that they differ only in soil and size. An All-The-Year Resort The Grand Canyon is more than some- thing stupendous to look at. It is a place for rest and recreation. It may be visited any day in the year. When most other mountain resorts are frozen up, the titan of chasms is easily accessible. During the winter snow falls in the pine forest along the rim, and the upper sec- tions of the trails to the river are covered with a white blanket. Nevertheless one may venture muleback down any of the principal trails, confident that spring soon will begin to peek out timidly and early summer appear just around the turn. For, going down, the climate changes perceptibly every few hundred feet, so that when on the rim a nipping frost is in the air there are fragile desert flowers blooming along the river gulches. The weather in July or August is not torrid, except at the very bottom of the giant cleft. Up above, the rim is almost a mile and a half above sea-level. That means cool mornings, evenings and nights Only at noon in the summer months does the thermometer register a high figure yet because of absence of moisture, in midsummer one moves about in perfect comfort during the day and sleeps under a blanket at night. Go down in summer and the tempera ture comes up; come up in winter and the temperature goes down. The difference of nearly a mile in altitude between the Colorado River and Canyon rim is like traveling hundreds of miles north 01 south on the level. Also high altitude means cool summers while southerly latitude means warm winters, as a rule which explains wh> the Grand Canyon is an ideal resort the year 'round. As a rule, too, this part of Arizona is a land of sunshine; the air is dry and th wind velocity is under the average. Eas> drives, in the stimulating atmosphere oi Arizona, a mile and a half up in the sky soothe tired brain and nerves. Mon vigorous is the horseback exercise, taker through the parklike glades and reaches of Tusayan Forest. While spring and fall perhaps are more attractive than midsummer or midwinter each season has its special lure. Camp- ing, during the December - to - March period, is restricted to the inner canyon region. The boulevard rim drives, and the south wall trails are open from January to January. So are the hotels. Most persons make the mistake of trying to see the Canyon in too short a time. They rush in, rush around, and rush out. That's the wrong way. The right way is to take it leisurely. A Pullman brings one to the very rim. While it is possible to get a hasty glimpse in a day, this hurried day must be spent either on the rim or in a rush down the trail to the river's edge; it is not possible to do both between sunrise and sunset, P a J>, e fourteen T- ' ?$& A noted feature of Bright Angel Trail is Jacob's Ladder. The Tonto Trail follows the inner gorge, thousands of feet below fhe rim. Pa A e fifteen ^ c*y;* 4^^\^- iv-z j.f KAIBAB THE GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK ARIZONA Scale QS1 a ? 4 ? ? ^ 8 , M ' LI - ^ Boundary of Park =^= Wagon Road r Automobile Road _ _ _ ^ A/a/n Trails Other Trails Railroad Pal ( i o TUSAYAN NATIONAL FOREST MAfS TO FLAGSTAFF CoDTrkbt bT Rtnd Mc.NallT i Co. Pa & e and both rim and river are well worth a day for each. It is much better to plan to stay at least two full days, allowing one of them for the trail to the river and the other for rim drives. Or, combine both in the Hermit Rim drive and Hermit Trail trip, with a night in the Canyon. Four or five days will enable you to really see this sublime spectacle. Viewed from above, it is an emotional experience. Descend mule-back over trails which zigzag steeply but safely down the cliffs, and the experience is altogether different. Accommodations for Travelers On arrival at the Canyon the traveler finds ample hotel accommodations, suitable enter- tainment for leisure hours, and complete facili- ties for outing trips. The saddle horses, mules and coach animals are specially trained for Western roads and trails. The vehicles are comparable to those found at Eastern resorts. Drivers and guides are experienced. The ex- cellent hotels cater to all classes of visitors. El Tovar One of the most unique resort hotels in the Southwest is located at the rail- road terminus, near head of Bright Angel Trail, at an elevation of 6,866 feet above sea-level. It is named El Tovar, and is under management of Fred Harvey. It is a long, low structure, built of native boulders and pine logs. There are ninety-three sleeping-rooms, accommodating 1 75 guests. Forty-six of these rooms are connected with private bath. There is a music-room, and rendezvous. In the main dining-room 165 persons can be seated at one time. Hot and cold water, steam heat and electric light are supplied. El Tovar also has a steam laundry. El Tovar Hotel is conducted on the American plan, i. e., room and meals both included. Rooms without bath, $5 a day for one person and $9 a day for two persons occupying same room; rooms with bath, $7 to $8 and upward for one person, and $12 to $15 a day and up- ward for two persons occupying same room. Meals only: breakfast and luncheon, $1 each; dinner, $1.50. Bright Angel Cottages Cozy lodgings in cottages or tents at Bright Angel Cottages, adjacent to El Tovar, cost $1.00 to $1.50 a day, each person; meals are furnished a la carte at the cafe. The accommodations are clean and comfortable. There are four cottages, open the year round and several large tents for sum- mer only. All of the cottages have steam heat and electric light; one cottage also has baths. About 1 50 persons can be accommodated here. Kitchen facilities are ample for quick, a la carte service. Grand View Hotel This hotel, located at Grand View, thirteen miles east of the railroad station, is under management of Mr. P. D. From the plateau there are many fine views of the inner canyon formi P a & e eighteen Camping in the Tusayan Forest on the rim. Berry. It is a large frame edifice, with log cabin annex, and can accommodate about fifty guests in season. Not open for regular traffic in winter. The Lookout The Lookout is a quaint observatory and resthouse, built on the edge of the rim near head of Bright Angel Trail. It is equipped with a large binocular telescope in the tower, for observing the most distant reaches of the Canyon by day and for viewing the heavens by night. There is a small library for the layman and scientist. Canyon maps and photos are displayed. The reception-room has spacious windows, a fireplace, Navajo rugs and easy chairs; it is electric lighted and steam heated. Hopi House Opposite El Tovar is a repro- duction of the dwellings of the Hopi Indians and several Navajo hogans. In the Hopi House are installed collections of Indian handiwork. Here also live a small band of Hopis. These are the most primitive In- dians in our country. Their ceremonies are hundreds of years old, the most famous being that of the snake dance. The men weave blankets and the women make pottery. The Navajos weave fine blankets which find a ready market and the silversmiths fashion their arti- cles, mostly bracelets and rings, from Mexican coin silver. Supai Indians from Cataract Can- yon frequently visit El Tovar. Hermit's Rest Where Hermit Rim Road ends and Hermit Trail begins is a unique rest- house, built into the hill, with a roofed-in porch and parapet wall. As the name implies, it is intended to provide rest and shelter for parties who take the Rim Road drive, or the Hermit Trail trip. Guests may sit at the tables outside or sheltered by the glass front inside, according to weather, and enjoy a light lunch in unusual surroundings. Admission is by ticket. The Trails Down to the River There are but four points from which a descent may be made of the south wall of the Grand Canyon in the vicinity of the granite gorge: 1. At Grand View, down Grand View Trail. 2. At El Tovar, down Bright Angel Trail. 3. At Hermit Basin, down Hermit Trail. 4. West of Havasupai Point, down Bass Trail. Hermit and Bright Angel trails are regularly used and are kept in excellent condition. Grand View and Bass Trails are used infrequently. The Canyon is accessible over trails at other places outside of the district named, such as Lee's Ferry Trail, by wagon from Winslow, and Hopi Indian Trail, by way of Little Colorado Canyon; but tourists take the El Tovar and Hermit routes because of the superior facilities there offered. It is near Grand View that Marble Canyon ends and the Grand Canyon proper begins. Northward, eighteen miles away, is the mouth of the Little Colorado Canyon. From Grand View the beginning of the granite gorge is seen. P a g e nineteen P a A e twenty Overlooking the Colorado River from Plateau Point. Th Coloardo River at foot of Bright Angel Trail. El Tovar is approximately in the center, Hermit a little west of center, and Bass Trail at the western end of the granite gorge. By auto road it is about thirteen miles from El Tovar east to Grand View, eight miles west to Hermit, and twenty-four miles west to Bass Trail. Hermit Rim Road A scenic roadway, Hermit Rim Road, has been built from El Tovar westward to the head of Her- mit Basin, seven and a half miles. It is like a city boulevard in the wilderness. 1 1 closely follows the rim, by way of Hopi and Mohave Points, to Pima Point, and thence along the east side of Hermit Basin to top of Hermit Trail. In many places there is a sheer drop of 2,000 feet within a rod of the rim. Along the entire route the gigantic panorama of the Grand Canyon unfolds itself for miles and miles, with views of Tusayan Forest, the Cataract country, and, far to the west, the purple peaks of the Uinkarets. Powell Monument, on Sentinel Point, was erected by the U. S. Government as a memorial to Major John W. Powell, the first Canyon explorer. This massive monument is constructed of native rock and represents an Aztec sacrificial altar. Regular Trip Drives by Coach There are several interesting "regular trip" drives by coach. They are popular with everybody, the expense being moderate. A list follows: Hopi Point El Tovar to Hopi Point, two miles west, and back; first trip starts at 10 a. m. ; rate, $1.00. Second trip leaves at 2 p. m.; rate, $1.00. Third trip leaves at an hour timed to reach the point before sunset; rate, $1.50. Mohave Point Three miles west; leaves 9 a. m. and 2 p. m.; rate, $2. Hermit Rim Road Fifteen miles round trip once in the forenoon and once in the afternoon. The first starts at 9 a. m. and reaches El Tovar, returning, at 1 p. m.; rate, $3. The second starts at 2 p. m., and reaches El Tovar, returning, about 5:30 p. m. ; rate, $3. Stops are made en route at Hopi, Mohave and Pima points. Rates named also include use of facilities and light refreshments at Hermit's Rest. Yavapai and Grandeur Points This drive extends two miles east of El Tovar; start 10:15 a. m.; rate, $1. Private Conveyance Rates Where private carriages or coaches are desired, an extra charge of $2 is made for entire party, besides the individual rate for regular service. As an example the rate for regular trip to end of rim road is $3 each person. If one person desires to make this trip in a special convey- ance, that person would pay $5; if two persons go, the entire expense would be $8; for three persons, $11; and so on up to six. The $2 extra is collected for the party as a whole, and not individually. Rates for special autos vary with service performed. Note If the demand for regular trip driven is no heavy as to require use of all conveyances available, private carriages or coaches will be discontinued temporarily. Regular Trip Drives by Auto With th<- rapid development of good roads in Northern Arizona, the use of the auto for seeing this sec- tion enables visitors to get around quickly and with comfort. One easily can make the detour to the Canyon from either Flagstaff or Williams over good natural roads, which for two-thirds of the way, run over a rolling plain. To care for increasing auto travel, a large stone garage has been built at the Canyon, with ample facilities for parking, repairing and supplying cars. Some of the "regular" auto trips are mentioned below. Autos are not permitted on Hermit Rim Road, nor on the road to Yavapai Point, nor on road from Rowe Well to Hopi Point. This is a regulation of the United States Govern- ment to safeguard travel by coach along the rim. There are no such restrictions elsewhere in this vicinity. Special rates are made for special auto service. Grand View The round trip to Grand View Point, thirteen miles each way, is made by automobile in about three and a half hours, allowing sufficient time to visit the nearby outlooks. Leave El Tovar 9:30 a. m. and 2 p. m. daily; rate, $3. The ride is through the tallest pines of the Tusayan Forest, via Long Jim Canyon and Thor's Hammer. From Grand View may be seen that section of the Canyon from Bright Angel Creek to Marble Canyon, including the great bend of the Col- orado. On the eastern wall are Moran, Zuni, Papago, Pinal, Navaho (Desert View) and Comanche points; and the mouth of the Little Colorado River. Still further beyond is the Painted Desert and Navaho Mountain the latter plainly seen, though one hundred and twenty miles away. The rim trail to Moran Point is interesting. Grand View Trail enters the Canyon near Grand View Point. Desert View At this point there is a far outlook not only into the Canyon above the granite gorge, where the river valley widens, but also across the Painted Desert, toward Hopi- P a f>, e twenty-one Motoring through pine forest on way to Grand View. Grand View Hotel. Detroit Publishing Co. land, and along the Desert Palisades to the mouth of the Little Colorado. At sunset and sunrise it is a glorious sight. For that reason one preferably should arrange to stay over- night a camping trip, elsewhere referred to. Where time is an object the run may be made by auto there and back in a day, as soon as the necessary road improvements have been finished. The distance is thirty-two miles each way, via Grand View, Hull Tank, Trash Dam, Tanner Tank, old Aztec ruin, and head of Tanner Trail. Two round trips a day, leaving El Tovar 9 a. m. and return by I :30 p. m. Rate for one person, $20; for two persons, $10 each; for three or more persons up to capacity of car, $8 each. Special auto for parties of six persons or less, $48; lunch extra, except for El Tovar room guests. Flagstaff It is about eighty-five miles, El Tovar to Flagstaff, via Grand View, Lockett's Lake. Skinner's Wash, Moki Wash and San Francisco Peaks, over a main traveled road, on which a good run is possible most of the year. The round trip requires about two days. This is a very enjoyable drive through pine forests and across green mesas along the old- time stage route to the Canyon. The town of Flagstaff is located in the heart of the San Francisco uplift. In this vicinity are pre- historic cliff dwellings, extinct craters, volcanic cones, lava beds and ice caves. The summit of Humphrey's Peak, one of the peaks forming the San Francisco Mountains, is 12,750 feet high. Hermit Trail A pathway down the south wall of the Grand Canyon, named Hermit Trail, has been built from end of Hermit Rim Road to the Colorado River. One can take carriage from El Tovar to head of Hermit Trail, and go as far down as the plateau, muleback a two- days' round trip, spending the night at Hermit Camp. Hermit-Tonto-Bright Angel Loop camp- ing trip, requiring two to three days, includes the rim road and three trails, Hermit, Tonto and Bright Angel. Hermit Trail is four feet wide. The descent is accomplished by a series of easy grades. A southern exposure for the first thousand feet at top, renders it comparatively free in winter. The lower section opens into the main Canyon along Hermit Creek. On the plateau, at the foot of a lofty peak, Hermit Camp has been built a central dining- hall and eleven tents with accommodations for thirty persons. Excellent camp meals are pro- vided. The tents have pine floors and sides, beds, rugs, and other conveniences. The upper part of Hermit Trail leads down into Hermit Basin, on the western slope, to where the red wall begins. From Red Top to the head of Cathedral Stairs the way leads along the steep east wall of Hermit Gorge, almost on a level. P a A e twenty-two At Cathedral Stairs there is an abrupt descent through the blue limestone by a succession of short zigzags. From camp to Colorado River there is a new trail. The river view at Hermit Rapids is one of the finest along the Colorado. These rapids are narrow, long, and very rough. Hermit Trail is distinguished from all the others by its wide views of the big Canyon nearly every rod of the way. Hermit Camp Overnight This trip takes two days and one night. Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail; down Hermit Trail; stay overnight at Hermit Camp; go to River foot of Hermit Creek; return up Hermit Trail to rim; thence Rim Road. Start from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages at 9 a. m., and return next afternoon. Round- trip charge is $16 for each person; private guide, $5 a day extra, rate quoted includes regular guide, overnight accommodations and meals en route. Hermit-Tonto-Bright Angel Loop This trip takes two days and one night. Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail; down Hermit Trail; stay over night at Hermit Camp; go to River foot of Hermit Creek; return along Ton to Trail to Indian Garden ; thence up Bright Angel Trail. Start from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages at 9 a. m., and return next afternoon. Round- trip charge is $23 for each person; private guide $5 a day extra; rate quoted includes regular guide, over-night accommodations and meals en route. Note This trip can be lengthened to three days and two nights by spending an extra night in the Canyon, also going to River at foot of Bright Angel Trail a 34-mile journey. Rate. $14 a day. one person: $8 a day extra each additional person; provisions extra; includes guide. Bright Angel Trail The trail here ia gen- erally open the year 'round. In midwinter it is liable to be closed for a day or two at the top by snow, but such blockade is not frequent. The trail reaches from the hotel seven miles to Colorado River, with a branch terminating at the top of the granite wall immediately over- looking the river. At this latter point the stream is 1 ,272 feet below, while El Tovar hotel on the rim is 3,158 feet above. The trip is made on muleback, accompanied by a guide. Those wishing to reach the river leave the main trail at Indian Garden and follow the downward course of Indian Garden and Pipe creeks. A feature of this section is a spiral pathway up an almost perpendicular wall. Another noted feature is Jacob's Ladder, cut across the face of hard blue limestone rock. For the first two miles it is indeed a sort of Jacob's ladder, zigzagging at an unrelenting pitch. At the end of two miles the blue lime- stone level is reached some 2,500 feet below the rim, that is to say for such figures have to be impressed objectively upon the mind five times the height of St. Peter's, the Pyramid of Cheops, or the Strasburg Cathedral; eight times the height of the Bartholdi Statue of Liberty; At Desert View there is a far outlook into the Canyon and across the Painted Desert toward Hopiland. P a & e twenty-three and eleven times the height of Bunker Hill Monument. Looking back from this level the huge towers that border the rim shrink to pig- mies and seem to crown a perpendicular wall, unattainably far in the sky. Yet less than one- half of the descent has been made. Leave at 8:30 a. m. for the river trip, seven miles; return to rim 5:30 p. m.; rate, $5 each person. Leave 10:30 a. m. for trip to plateau five miles; rate, $4 each. To plateau and river same day, rate $6 for each person; start at 8 a. m. Rates quoted above are for each person in parties of three or more. For special trips with less than three persons there is a party charge of $5 extra for guide. Lunch extra, except for El Tovar room guests. It is necessary that visitors who walk down Bright Angel Trail and desire that guide and mules be sent to meet them, be charged full price and special guide fee of $5. This is un- avoidable, as the mules and guides are not available for any other trip, and in addition a toll fee of $1 must be paid by the management for each animal, whether the entire trail trip is made or not. Camping Trips Camping trips with pack and saddle animals, or with wagon and saddle animals, are organized, completely equipped, and placed in charge of experienced guides. For climatic reasons it is well to arrange so that camping trips during the season from October to April are mainly confined to the inner Canyon. For the remainder of the year, i. e., April to October, they may be planned to include both the Canyon itself and the rim country. The rates vary from $10 to $15 a day for one person; $6 to $8 a day each additional person. Such rates specially include services of guide and camp equipment; provisions extra; figures quoted are approximate only, varying with different outings. Dripping Spring This trip is made on horseback all the way, or carriage to rim and saddle horses down trail; ten miles west, start at 8:30 a. m. ; rate, $4 each for three or more persons; for less than three persons, $5 extra for guide. Private parties of three or more persons, $5 extra for guide. Cataract Canyon and Havasupai Village - The best time to visit this place is from May to October. A journey of about fifty miles, first by wagon or auto, thirty-five miles, across a timbered plateau, then on horseback down Topocobya Trail, along Topocobya and Cataract canyons, to the home of the Havasupai Indians. The home of this little band ofJ/200 Indians is in Cataract Canyon, a tributary of the Grand Canyon, deep down in the earth two-fifths of a mile. The situation is romantic, and the sur- roundings are beautified by falls of water over precipices several hundred feet high, backed by grottoes of stalactites and stalagmites. This water all comes from springs that gush forth in surprising volume near the Havasupai village. The baskets made by the Havasupai women consist of the burden basket, a shallow tray and a water bottle of willow. Those made by the older weavers are of fine mesh, with attractive designs and bring good prices. No other Indians know so well how to cook meat, seeds and mush in coiled willow trays lined with clay. This tribe is allied to the Wallapai, their near neighbors on the west, and both speak the same language, with slight variation of dialect. Havasupai means people of the blue water. Padre Garces was the first white man to visit their canyon home. In early days the Havasu- pais undoubtedly were cliff dwellers. They built nearly all the Grand Canyon trails, or rather their rude pathways were the advance guard of the present trails. Their summer homes resemble those of the Apaches. The winter homes afford more protection against the weather. The round trip from El Tovar is made in three days, at an expense of $15 a day for one person, $20 a day for two persons, and $25 a day for three persons. Each additional member of party, $5 a day. Provisions extra. These rates include service for party of one or two persons, also cost of horse feed, but do not in- clude board and lodging at Supai Village for members of party and guide while stopping with Indian agent, who charges $2 a day for each person. For parties of three to six persons an extra guide is required, whose services are charged for at $5 a day, besides his board and lodging at the village. Note At the western end of the granite gorge is a trail down to the Colorado River and up the other side to Point Sublime and Powell's Plateau, the river being crossed by ferry. Reached by team from El Tovar. a distance of twenty-four miles, or it can be seen as a detour on the Cataract Canyon trip; rates on application. Desert View Elsewhere reference is made to Desert View auto trip. When taken by wagon, it occupies three days, leaving El Tovar morning of first day and returning afternoon of third day, with all-night camp at destination. Rate, $10 for one person, and $5 each additional person; provisions extra; rate named includes one guide; an extra guide costs $5 a day. Little Colorado River The trip to the mouth of the Little Colorado is a most interest- P a twenty- fou At Cathedral Stairs, on Hermit Trail, there is an abrupt descent through the blue limestone by a succession of short zigzags. P a & e twenty-five ing one. Leaving Ell Tovar in the morning by wagon, camp is made the first day at Deer Tank. The next day the Cliff Dwellings are visited, and the plateau overlooking the Canyon of the Little Colorado is reached by midday. From the edge of the plateau to the bottom of the Canyon is a straight drop of 2,500 feet. Painted Desert and Hopiland The trip is made with saddle and pack animals. The first night the camp is at Saddle Horse Tanks. Hopi Crossing of the Little Colorado is reached the next afternoon and Tuba City the third day. The Hopi village of Moenkopie is seen en route. The Painted Desert country affords a most interesting study of a phase of Indian entertain- ment, little known to white people. Horseback Trips The Far West ranges are the home of the horse. Here the pinto, cayuse and broncho truly belong. Here they grow strong of limb and swift of foot. Recently many new bridle paths along the rim and through the pines of Tusayan have been opened up, so that horseback riding now is possible for all. The animals are well trained and dependable. Saddle-horses cost $4 a day, or $2.50 a half day. English, McLellan, Whitman or Western stock saddles furnished as requested. Side saddles not provided. The rate for special guides is $5 a day, or $2.50 a half day. Horse- back trips over any of the trails into the Canyon are only permitted when accompanied by guide. This is necessary to avoid risk in meeting trail parties and pack trains. Time Required While one ought to re- main a week or two, a stopover of three or four days from the transcontinental trip will be quite satisfactory. The Hermit overnight camping trip requires one day and night. One day should be devoted to a carriage ride along the Hermit Rim Road, and by auto to Grand View. Another day go down Bright Angel Trail and back. A fourth day spent in short walks to nearby points, or on horseback, will enable CROSS SCCT10N SHOWING ROCK STRATA IN GRAND CANYON visitors to get more intimate views. Hermit Loop three-day camping trip, down one trail and up another, is well worth while. The National Park Service of the Department of the Interior recommends to the traveling pul lie that stop-overs of as long duration as practi- cable be planned at points within the Parks, that Grand Canyon National Park be regard* not alone as a region which may be glimpsed on a hurried trip, but also as a vacation playgroui for rest and recreation. One-Day Outings In one day any one < the following combinations of regular round trips may be taken at the Canyon, from El Tovar or Bright Angel Cottages: 1. (a) Hermit Rim Road, coach to head of Hermit Trail, $3. (b) Auto to Grand View, $3. 2. (a) Hermit Rim Road, coach to head of Hermit Trail, $3. (b) Hermit Trail to Santa Maria Spring, $4; guide extra. 3. Bright Angel Trail to Plateau ($4) or river ($5). 4. (a) Coach to Yavapai Point, $1. (b) Coach to Hopi Point, $1 and $1.50. 5. Bright Angel Trail to river and plateau, $6; guide extra. Two-Day Outings In two days any one of these regular trip combinations may be taken: 1. (a) Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail; Hermit Trail to Plateau Camp and river; return same route; $16. Note. For return via Tonto and Bright Angel Trails, instead of Hermit Trail, add $7, each person. 2. (a) Bright Angel Trail to Plateau; round trip, $4. (b) Hermit Rim Road to head Hermit Trail, round trip, $3. (c) Grand View auto, round trip, $3. What to Wear If much tramping is done, stout, thick shoes should be provided. Ladies will find that short walking skirts are a con- venience; divided skirts are preferable, but not essential, for the horseback journey down the zigzag trail. Traveling caps and (in summer) broad-brimmed straw hats are useful adjuncts. Otherwise ordinary clothing will suffice. Divided skirts and straw hats may be rented at El Tovar Hotel. Flora and Fauna Grand Canyon National Park is bordered on the north by the Kaibab National Forest and on the south by the Tusayan National Forest. In fact, a part of each of these forests is now within the boundaries of the Park. In this high forested region, the climatic diversity on the rim and in the depths is indicated all year, by the wild flowers, shrubs and trees. On the rim are the pines, cedars, junipers, pinyon and mesquite, also the cactus, "rose of the desert," the cholla and ocatillo, the yucca or Spanish bayonet, and many brilliantly colored wild flowers. The farther down one goes, the greater the change becomes. The pines drop P a t e n t y - s On the plateau at base of Hermit Point U Hermit Camp. Hermit Trail it four feet wide, with a low protecting wall on the outeide. The Colorado River at foot of Hermit Trail. P a & e twenty-seven out, then the cedar, juniper and pinyons. Many new wild flowers appear. There is a wide range of bird life, such as the golden eagle, wild turkey, sage-hen, mocking- bird, and the noisy magpie. Humming-birds and Canyon wrens are seen everywhere. The North Rim About two hundred miles to the southeast of Lund, Utah, by auto highway, is Bright Angel Point, on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The journey will make an appeal to those who aim to get away from the usual and into the primitive. No regular schedules are avilable for the entire distance; and tourists must be satisfied with the homelike ac- commodations of remote villages en route and comfortable camps at the Canyon rim. The route from Lund is thirty-five miles to Cedar City, forty-four miles from Cedar City to Hurricane, sixty-nine miles from Hurricane to Fredonia and sixty-three miles from Fredonia to Grand Canyon National Park. The tour embraces several zones of altitude. At Cedar City the climate is comparable with that of Salt Lake City; southward the road drops downward two thousand feet through the Hurricane Fault into Utah's "Dixie," a gar- den spot of semi-tropical vegetation and quaint Mormon settlements. South of Hurricane the route is across a land of Zane Grey's "Purple Sage," and upward for sixty miles along the magnificent stretches of the Kaibab Plateau, whose southern escarpment, at an altitude of 8,000 feet, is the northern wall of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. These last sixty miles are through the Kaibab forest, a national reserve which exhibits on a grand scale one of the largest forests of giant pines in the United States. The high, dry, bracing pine-laden air, the forest aisles, and occasional glimpses of wild deer, make this ride a fitting prelude to the silent symphony of the Grand Canyon itself. How to Reach the Park Grand Canyon National Park is directly reached by a branch line of railroad extending sixty-four miles northward from Williams, Ariz. In certain trains through standard sleeping cars are operated to and from Grand Canyon station. Passengers using other trains and stopping over at Williams will find adequate accommodations at the Fray Marcos, station hotel. Excursion Tickets Stop-overs at Williams are permitted on round-trip and one-way tickets, all classes, read- ing to points beyond also on Pullman tickets. Side-trip fare from Williams to Grand Canyon and return is $7.60. Round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are on sale daily at prac- tically all stations in the United States and Can- ada to Grand Canyon, as a destination. Baggage Baggage may be checked through to Grand Canyon station, if required. Passengers making brief side-trips to Grand Canyon may check bag- gage to Williams only or through to destination. Certain regulations for free storage of baggage for Grand Canyon passengers are in effect. The route to the North Rim is elsewhere described. % Park Administration Grand Canyon National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Ser- vice, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Grand Canyon, Ariz. An exceptional snow fall on the rim of the Grand Canyon. P a twenty-ei}h Navajo woman spinning wool. Hopi Indian women weaving. A Supai maiden from Cataract Canyon. P a & e twenty-nine Grand Canyon railroad station. Trail party in front of Bright Angel Cottages. Horseback party in Tusayan Forest. Monument to Maj. J. W. Powell, first explorer of Grand Canyon. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C., Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map of National Parks and National Monu- ments. Shows location of all of the national parks and monuments, and railroad routes to these reservations. The following publication may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at price given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. The National Parks Portfolio. By Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 illustrations. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. Contains nine sections, each descriptive of national park. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111. Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park. Oregon Glacier National Park. Montana Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado Mount Rainier National Park, Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michigan. Iowa, and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. Montana. Idaho Yosemite National Park. California Zion National Monument. Utah P a thirty The National Parks at a glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to~any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following United States Railroad Administration Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Lincoln, Neb 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark. . .202 W. 2d St. Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. Ill 175 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex I 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines, Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso, Tex .... Mills and Oregon Sts. 702 Houston St. . . . . J and Fresno Sts. 21st and Market Sts. 58 S. Main St. 904 Texas Ave. Ft. Worth. T. Fresno, Cal . . . . Galveston, Tex. Helena, Mont. . Houston, Tex . . Kansas City, M Ry. Ex. Bid Long Beach, Cal . . L. A. & S. L Station Los Angeles. Cal . . . .215 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha, Neb 1416 Dodge St Peoria, III. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. g.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis. Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore, Md. . . .B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y. .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. Asheville, N. C 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta, Ga 74 Peachtree St. Augusta. Ga 811 Broad St. St. Paul. Minn . .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento. Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Tex. 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco, Cal Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal., 1 st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La., Milarn and Market Sts. 510 4th St. Sioux City, Iowa Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash. ..1117-19 Pacific Ave. 6th and Franklin Sts. L. A. & S. L. Station .... 226 Portage Ave. Waco. Tex.... Whittier. Cal.. Winnipeg, Man Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph, Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis, Mo. 318-328 North Broadway East Detroit, Mich ... 1 3 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . . L. & N. R. R. Bldg Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. I 12-14 English Block Newark, N. J., Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York, N. Y 64 Broadway New York, N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y I 14 W. 42d St South Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St. Lexington. Ky Union Station Louisville, Ky . . . .4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg, Va 722 Main St. Memphis, Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile, Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville, Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans, La St. Charles Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building. Chicago. Birmingham, Ala. Charleston, S. C. . Charlotte. N. C. . . . Chattanooga, Tenn. Columbia, S. C. . . . Jacksonville. Fla. . 2010 1st Ave. . Charleston Hotel . .22 S. Tryon St. ..81 7 Market St. .Arcade Building . . .38 W. Bay St. Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa Reading. Pa Rochester. N. Y. . Syracuse, N. Y. . . Toledo, Ohio Washington, D. C. Williamsport. Pa. . Wilmington. Del. . Paducah, Ky .. Fla.. 1539 Chestnut St. . .Arcade Building ..I6N. Fifth St. 20 State St. . University Block 320 Madison Ave. . 1229 F St. N. W. .4th and Pine Sts. . . .905 Market St. Pensacola Raleigh. N. C Richmond. Va Savannah, Ga Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. . . .430 Broadway .San Carlos Hotel 305 LaFayette St. . .830E. Main St. 37 Bull St. P a t h i r t y - o n e PRESS OF THE HENRY O. SHEPARO CO., CHICAGO This series of tremendous chasms reaches its culmination in a chaotic gorge 217 miles long. 9 to 13 miles wide, and more than 6000 feet deep. r/miimrnmiiiiiiimiiiiimiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiimiimm mm HA WAI National Park HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ! UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION N AT IONAL PARK. SE lilMIIMItmilimi Pa g e two An Appreciation of the Hawaii National Park By E. M. NEWMAN, Traveler and Lecturer Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration FIRES of a visible inferno burning in the midst of an earthly paradise is a striking con- trast, afforced only in the Hawaii National Park. It is a combination of all that is terrify- ing and all that is beautiful, a blending of the awful with the magnificent. Lava-flows of centuries are piled high about a living volcano, which is set like a ruby in an emer- ald bower of tropical grandeur. Picture a perfect May day, when glorious sunshine and smiling nature combine to make the heart glad; then multiply that day by three hundred and sixty-five and the result is the climate of Hawaii. Add to this the sweet odors, the luscious fruits, the luxuriant verdure, the flowers and colorful beauty of the tropics, and the Hawaii National Park becomes a dreamland that lingers in one's memory as long as memory survives. Page three To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America, Secretary of the Interior Hawaii National Park HE Hawaiian Islands, in the mid-Pacific, comprise a land of exquisite charm, in a novel setting. It is the land of the cocoanut and the royal palm; the poin- ciana regia and the monkeypod. Here the pleasure-seeking traveler also dis- covers the banyan and the hau, the golden shower and the hibiscus, the pineapple and the papaya, the kukui and algeroba , the lantana and pan- danus. And, from the coral plains thus carpeted, spring the world's most spectacular volcanoes, thousands of feet above the vast surrounding blue of the Pacific's dazzling waters. The Hawaii National Park, created by the United States Government in 1916, and administered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, includes three celebrated Ha- waiian volcanoes, Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the island of Hawaii, and Haleakala, on the island of Maui. These islands are connected by fre- quent steamer service with the port of Honolulu, island of Oahu. "The Hawaiian volcanoes," writes T. A. Jaggar, Jr. , director of the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, "are truly a na- tional asset, wholly unique of their kind, the most famous in the world of science and the most continuously, va- riously, and harmlessly active volcanoes on earth. Kilauea crater has been nearly continuously active, with a lake or lakes of molten lava, for a century. Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano in the world, with eruptions about once a dec- ade, and has poured out more lava dur- ing the last century than any other volcano on the globe. Haleakala is a mountain mass ten thousand feet high, with a tremendous crater rift in its summit eight miles in diameter and three thousand feet deep, containing many high lava cones. Haleakala is probably the largest of all known craters among volcanoes that are tech- nically known as active. It erupted less than two hundred years ago. The crater at sunrise is the grandest vol- canic spectacle on earth." The lava lake at Kilauea is the most spectacular feature of Hawaii National Park. It draws visitors from all over the world. It is a lake of molten, fiery lava a thousand feet long, splashing on its banks with a noise like waves of the sea, while great fountains boil through it fifty feet high. This ex- hibition of one of the most amazing revelations of nature the terrific and irresistible forces of the earth's internal fires is accessible by automobiles al- most to the very brink, and may be safely viewed. The National Park areas also include gorgeous tropical Pag e four The Pali, at head of Nuuanu Valley, near Honolulu jungles and fine forests. Sandalwood, elsewhere extinct, grows luxuriantly, and there are mahogany groves. The Paradise of the Pacific Hawaii is a Territory of the United States, annexed in 1898. The inhabit- ed islands comprise a chain of eight, stretching over a distance of more than four hundred miles, with a total area of 6,500 square miles and a population of 256,180. From northeast to south- west the islands are Niihau. Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Maui, Lanai, Kahoo- lawe and Hawaii, the latter giving its name to the group. Honolulu, island of Oahu, is the capital, the chief com- mercial city and a tourist resort. The ocean voyage of more than two thousand miles from the mainland is full of interest, occupying several days in splendidly equipped and luxurious steamers. The waters soon become more placid, more deeply blue; the sky is softer, the air more balmy, and all around prevails the sweet influence of summer seas, restful and inviting. Sun- rise and sunset become more brilliant, and the nights of the full moon are flooded with a golden light that sug- gests fairy scenes of enchantment on the Isles beyond. Rounding Diamond Head, the landmark of Honolulu har- bor, the deep blue of the ocean shades off with all the lighter blues, then runs the gamut through every shade of green, until the waves are seen break- ing in a long line of dazzling, foaming surf on the far-famed beach of Wai- kiki. The city of Honolulu has a popula- tion of 75,000 and differs but little from American cities in social customs, manner of living, business life, and modern improvements. Next to ideal climate the visitor expects to find first- class hotels. In this respect he can be accommodated either in the palatial city hotels or in those at the beach. For those who prefer the residence and bungalow types of hotels, there are many conveniently situated. The Executive Building, formerly the lolani Palace, contains numerous interesting features reminiscent of the past when the islands were under na- tive control. In the Throne Room, which is now the Territorial House of Representatives, are hung portraits of former kings and their consorts. The royal Hawaiian coat-of-arms, now the Territorial, together with gilded spears and other marks of olden days, may still be seen in the ornamentation of the interior. Beautiful parks, with their royal palms, gorgeous tropical flowers, ' Page five () BY NEWMAN TRAVEL TALKS AND BROWN DAWSON N Y Haleakala largest quiescent volcano in the world Page six Waves of Lava, as seen by night The Devil's Kitchen. Volcano of Kilauea View of Golf Course and Country Club, Honolulu strange trees and shrubs, suggest a fairy-land to the visitor unaccustomed to such scenes. In the automobile tours of Honolulu and its suburbs, over the admirable boulevards and highways, frequently one sees the scalloped branches of the night blooming cereus, drooping over hedges and walls. The glory and fragrance of the rare blos- soms may be enjoyed only after night- fall, when the great white petals unfold to greet the brilliant stars. Waikiki Beach, the sea-side resort of Hono- lulu, fronts directly on the blue Pacific and is protected by a great coral reef half a mile or more off shore. Against this barrier the mighty rollers dash and rush headlong in foam-crested torrents across the lagoon. A daring and distinctively Hawaiian aquatic sport is surf-riding. It is most fascinating to watch the men and boys standing erect on their surfboards dashing shoreward and topping the crests of the highest breakers. Surf-riding in the outrigger canoes is an en- joyable sport and under the guidance of skill- ful Hawaiian paddlers is safe but decidedly speedy and thrilling. The sea bathing is per- fect; the temperature of the water is about 78 degrees the year 'round. Delightful railroad and motor trips of mod- erate length may be enjoyed from Honolulu. The automobile tour around the island is par- ticularly interesting. A panorama of ever- changing beauty is unfolded precipitous mountains, foaming surf, dense tropical vege- tation, fields of sugar cane, pineapple planta- tions and rice fields affording a continuous variety of scene. The Pali, famed in story, is at the head of Nuuanu Valley, six milea from Honolulu. "Pali" is an Hawaiian word meaning "cliff," and Nuuanu Pali towers 1,200 feet, a precipice flanked on both sides by mountain walls 3,500 feet in height. It was in I 795, in the Nuuanu Valley, that the army of Oahu took its final stand against the invaders under Kamehameha the Great the Napoleon of the South Seas. Forced by their enemies up the valley toward the great cliff, all that remained of Oahu's army, about 3,000, were finally driven over the cliff to de- struction on the rocks below. Hauula, on the windward side of the island, and Haleiwa, on the Waialua Bay, offer many attractions, coupled with excellent hotel ac- commodations. The attractions of Oahu are far from ex- hausted, but perhaps the visitor is ready to view wonders of very different character the volcanoes, the ever-living crater of Kilauea, and the inspiring Mauna Loa and Haleakala. Kilauea and Mauna Loa The world-famed active volcano of Kilauea, the marvelous country surrounding it, and the towering crater of Mauna Loa, scarcely less remarkable, are situated on the island of Hawaii. An overnight steamer ride of 192 miles from Honolulu brings one to Hilo, pop- ulation 10,000, the largest town on Hawaii and the second in size and importance in the islands. Hilo is very attractive, has good hotels, and is the starting point for the trip in- land to Kilauea volcano. There is a splendid harbor at Hilo, protected by a breakwater, and one of the prettiest spots is Cocoanut Island, from which a panoramic view of the moun- tains lies outstretched. In front is the placid bay of Hilo, and on the shore beyond is the Pag e seven LANAI Wahapuu O Ka.-naiki Ft* C. Kaea KAHOOU KealaiUahiki PjJS 1 HAWAII NATIONAL PARK HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Scale National Park Boundaries \Railroads Roads INTER-ISLAND S. S. ROUTES The Short Scenic Route Kona Coast Page eight Page nine Piihonua Falls, near Hilo. Island of Hawaii Pa g e ten BY NEWMAN TRAVEL TALKS AND BROWN ft DAWSON. N. Y Fiery Crater of Kilauea. at night city, almost hidden by luxuriant tropical foli- age, while in the background are seen the two loftiest mountains in this ocean at the right, Mauna Kea, snow-hooded at the left, majestic Mauna Loa. The trip from Hilo to Kilauea volcano is by automobile, a distance of thirty miles. From Hilo the road gradually ascends through sugar cane and pineapple plantations, to a high elevation and then plunges into a great forest of tree ferns, whose fronds are thirty feet overhead and provide a delightful canopy for many miles. At 4,000 feet elevation the tour ends at Crater Hotel, or a mile beyond at Volcano House on the rim of the crater. Here are unobstructed views of towering snow-capped mountains and the great crater, Kilauea, an enormous pit nearly eight miles in circumference and six hundred feet deep, enclosing an area of 2,650 acres. Filling the floor of this vast bowl is a sea of solidified lava, twisted and contorted into every imag- inable shape, with jets of steam, vapor and sulphurous fumes rising from innumerable crevices and cracks. Almost at the center is the active throat of the volcano itself, called by the natives, Halemaumau, The House of Everlasting Fire. This was, in Hawaiian mythology, the home of Pele, the goddess of fire. This throat or inner pit is a mile in cir- cumference and contains at all times a raging sea of molten lava, its white-hot waves lash- ing and gnawing at the imprisoning walls, and its vast fountains of incandescent rock eternally flinging their fiery spray in air; seething and roaring in awful grandeur. The molten sea rises and falls periodically, at times even overflowing the rim of the pit and spreading out over the floor of the main crater, while red-hot crags and massive islands rise from its depths to either collapse in tumultuous avalanches or subside gently beneath the surface of the lava. The pit is fascinating by daylight, but at night, when the imprisoned fires are at their grandest, the scene is enthralling. It may be witnessed in perfect safety. No accident has ever taken place in connection with its activities. The Devil's Kitchen, the Picture Frame, and Pele's Bathroom are among the interesting volcanic freak formations on the main crater bed. The U. S. Weather Bureau maintains a vol- canic observatory upon the brink of the crater, and visitors are welcome to inspect the apparatus installed. Kilauea is the center of a district unex- celled in volcanic marvels, and at least a week could be devoted to its exploration. There are many great craters withing easy walking distance; interesting lava tubes or tunnels, wonderful forests of ancient Koa trees and tree ferns, banks of live sulphur, and bot- tomless fissures and earthquake cracks. The trails are well marked by signboards and horses are obtainable for longer expedi- tions, or for the two-day trip to the summit of Mauna Loa, intermittently active and the world's largest volcano. Near the top of this great mountain, towering to a height of 13,675 feet above the sea, is the crater of Mokuaweoweo, with an area of 2,370 acres, a circumference of 9.47 miles, a length of 3.7 miles, and a width of 1.74 miles. This trip is made by horseback, and convenient rest houses are located on the slope of the moun- tain. Another route to Kilauea is by steamer from Honolulu to Kailua, 1 73 miles, touching at Mahukona and Kawaihae and by automo- bile, 1 1 miles, from Kailua to the volcano. The stops en route afford opportunities to Page eleven Towering Mauna Loa from Hilo Page twelve Night View of the Volcano of Kilauea Tree Ferns on road to Kilauea Volcano Cooled Lava formation, on the floor of a giant crater visit scenic and historical parts of the island of Hawaii in the Kona district, abounding in coffee, sugar-cane, tobacco, sisal and tropical fruits such as Kealakekua Bay, the Captain Cook Monument, Napoopoo and Honaunau, the site of the famous Hale O Keawe, the best known of Hawaiian places of refuge and temples. Of the many side-trips from Hilo, a ride on the railway to Paauilo is most spectacular. Costing more than $100,000 per mile, the road crosses over two hundred streams, fol- lows the coast line north of Hilo and reveals a bewildering array of gulches or canyons, between ancient lava flows, with wonderful foliage and waterfalls. The adjoining Puna District shows the best examples of native life and the largest cocoanut grove on the islands. Haleakala Another area of the Hawaii National Park comprises the volcano of Haleakala, situated on the island of Maui. After a few hours' voyage of seventy-five miles from Honolulu, or while en route between Honolulu and Hilo, the traveler lands at Lahaina and rides twenty-three miles by automobile to Wailuku, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, the third in size in the islands. From Lahaina to Wailuku is over a road often compared with the Amain drive in Italy. On the left rises precipitously high mountains, while, just as steep, on the right, the road is built 200 feet and more over the ocean. In full view is the lofty crest of Haleakala. lao Valley, sometimes called "The Yosem- ite of Hawaii," penetrates the mountain mass just back of Wailuku, and is perhaps the most beautiful valley in the islands. It is five miles long, two miles wide, and near its head is 4,000 feet deep. It is filled with dense tropical growths of every kind. Through it flows the Wailuku River, which received its name (water of blood) in 1 790 when Kame- hameha fought and conquered the King of Maui in a desperate battle. There are many curious and interesting formations in the rock-ribbed mountains. Haleakala, the House of the Sun, is the largest quiescent volcano in the world. The elevation of its summit is 10,032 feet. Its crater is nineteen square miles, or 12,160 acres; the circumference of the rim, twenty miles; extreme length, 7.48 miles; extreme width, 2.37 miles. The almost vertical walls drop half a mile or more. It is impossible to realize the great area of the crater. The whole of New York City, below Central Park, could be buried within its depths, and the highest of that city's church spires would be but toys by the side of its cinder cones; cones which rise like young mountains from the bottom of the crater, and which are relatively but fair- sized ant-hills when viewed from the sum- mit. The silver sword, an indigenous plant born of the ash and scoria of the volcano, grows within the crater and in but one other place in the world. It consists of a great mass of silvery-white, bristling sword shaped leaves resting upon the ground, from which rises a stalk, strung with flowers, to the height of five or six feet. On the crater's edge stands a substantial rest house which makes the night comfortable to the visitor. This vantage point is above the usual cloud elevation. The level rays of the setting sun illuminate every nook and corner of the stupendous crater and bring to view the outlines and delicate tints of the majestic pictures which have been hung in this mammoth gallery, to thrill and awe all who look upon them. Page thirteen Mark Twain wrote: "It is the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed. I felt like the Last Man, neglected of the judgment, and left pinnacled in mid-heaven, a forgotten relic of a vanished world." Said Jack London: "For natural beauty and wonder the nature-lover may see dissimilar things as great as Halea- kala, but no greater, while he will never see elsewhere anything more beautiful or won- derful." The established trip to Haleakala includes automobile service from Wailuku to lao Val- ley and to Olinda, twenty-one miles, and saddle horses and guide from Olinda, eight miles to the summit. The round-trip re- quires two days and one night from Wailuku. The visitor to Haleakala who has the time and is physically equal to spending three or four days in the saddle may make the return trip from the summit over the floor of the crater, out through the Kaupo Gap and around the windward side of the island by what is known as the "Ditch Trail," passing through Alea, Hana, Nahiku and Kaenae. The "Ditch" country is a huge conservatory. Kauai, the Garden Isle Kauai, area 546.9 square miles, is the smallest of the four principal islands of the group. It is ninety-eight miles from Hono- lulu to Nawiliwili, the harbor for Lihue, two miles distant. The island retains to a great degree its primitive beauty. It holds many at- tractions for tourists, among which are the brilliantly colored Waimea and Olokele can- yons and the bay and valley at Hanalei. Among other natural wonders are the Bark- ing Sands at Nohili and the Spouting Horn at Koloa. Park Area Kilauea section 17,290 acres, Mauna Loa section 37.200 acres, and Haleakala section 20. 1 75 acres Climate The coastal regions of the Hawaiian Islands have a temperature which varies not more than 1 degrees through the day, and which has an utmost range during the year between the degrees of 85 and 55. The humidity is low. There are no cyclones, nor hurricanes, no foggy days and no malaria. The cool invigorating northeast trade winds blow almost continuously. In the high alti- tudes the temperature falls and on the heights of Haleakala, Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea the freezing point is often reached. Sports and Amusements Among the all year 'round diversions are swimming, surf-riding, game fishing, yacht- ing, golf, polo, baseball, cricket, football, ten- nis, motoring, hunting, horse-racing, horse- back riding and mountain climbing. There are splendid golf courses at the Country Club of Honolulu, at Moanalua, at Schofield Bar- racks and at Haleiwa. The Mid-Pacific Carnival, many features of which are staged at Waikiki Beach, is held annually in February. Celebrating Kamehameha Day the Terri- torial Fair is held annually in June, featuring pageants depicting ancient Hawaiian customs, while during the September Regatta some of the world's champion swimmers can be seen in action. Sight-Seeing Tours Sight-seeing tours are operated from Hono- lulu to points of interest throughout the islands. From Honolulu to Kilauea Volcano and return, "all-expense" tours of three days are priced at $34.00 and $37.00, six days at $54.00, and nine days at $67.50. From Honolulu to Haleakala Volcano and return, all expenses of a two-day trip are about $50.00. Combination tours to both Halea- kala and Kilauea Volcanoes, with side-trip to Mauna Loa Volcano, are available. The Hawaii Tourist Bureau A fully equipped Information Bureau is maintained by the Hawaii Tourist Bureau, Alexander Young Building, Bishop Street, Honolulu, T. H. Visitors to the islands are invited to make use of this Bureau. Administration Hawaii National Park is under the juris- diction of the Director, National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. U. S. Government Publications The following publication may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at price given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National Pamphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition. 55 cents The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments, and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, Na- tional Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building. Chicago, 111. Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies ' Crater Lake National Park. Oregon Glacier National Park. Montana Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona , Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas 1 Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado Mount Rainier National Park. Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michigan. Iowa, and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska ' Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho Yosemite National Park. California Zion National Monument. Utah Page fourteen The National Parks at a Glance United States Railroad Administration For particulars as to fares, to any of Austin Tex 215 Congress Ave. Beaumont. Tex.. Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. "Chicago. Ill I 79 W. Jackson St. Colorado Springs. Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 1 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex. . . .Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. . | Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J. . . 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md. . . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y.. Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio .... 1 004 Prospect Ave. Columbus. Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. Director General of Railroads train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or the following Consolidated Ticket Offices. West Asheville. N. C Atlanta. Ga Augusta, Ga Birmingham. Ala. . . Charleston. S. C Charlotte. N. C Chattanooga. Tenn . Columbia. S.C Jacksonville. Fla . . . Knoxville.Tenn . . . . Lincoln. Neb I04N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Cal. .L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles. Cal 221 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.,202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal.. Pacific Elec. Station Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. 111. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix. Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore.. 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis, Mo.. 3 1 8-328 North Broadway St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. East Detroit. Mich ... 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . . L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 1 12-14 English Block Montreal. Que 238 St. James St. Newark, N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32 St. New York. N. Y I 14 W. 42d St. South Sacramento. Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Texas 315-17 N. St. Mary'. St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal 50 Post St. San Jose. Cal.. 1st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La..Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash. ... I I 17-19 Pacific Ave. Waco, Texas. . . ,6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. Philadelphia. Pa.. . . 1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh. Pa Arcade Building Reading. Pa !6xR Fifth St. Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. 355 So. Warren St. .320 Madison Ave. .1229FSt. N. W. Syracuse. N. Y. . oyracus* Toledo. Ohio. Washington. D. C. Williamsport. Pa. Wilmington. Del . . .4th and Pine Sts. . . .905 Market St. 14 S. Polk Square Lexington Ky Union Station ' Paducah. Kv . . . . - '" y Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel . 74 Peachtree St. ....811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave. . Charleston Hotel . . 22 S. Tryon St. ..817 Market St. . Arcade Building . ..38 W. Bay St. .600 Gay St. .430 Broadway Louisville, Ky .... 4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery Ala Exchange Hotel Nashvile.Ten.. Independent Life Bldg. NewOrleans.La St. Charles Hotel Norfolk Va Monticello Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of -Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg.. Chicago. SEASON 1919 RATHBUN-CRANT-HELLER CO.. CHICAGO Page fifteen Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St . Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. . 1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C. .236N. Main St. LKS AND BROWN ft DAWSOI By moonlight in an outrigger off Hawaiian shores 1 IHMHtKIIW tlUtlllltill mt,,,,r,,,,,. ilililiiiiiiliiiiiliiyjjj iiiiull' ' I I ' il! It '"I II If 1 ! I ill 'I M Ml! I! ill =^=ggJJgg^i!Jl!ggJ^^ >.... ...M............ HOT SPRINGS National Park UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION SERIES ' Page two An Appreciation of Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas By OPIE READ, Author of "A Kentucky Colonel," "The Jucklins," etc. Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration RT is the mistress of many tricks. Her highest function is to cajole nature, to help nature to deceive herself; and while art may not offer to nature a new canvas, yet she can assist our common mother in the accent of color, in grouping, in assembling in a comparatively small area all the varied and startling features of a mighty landscape. Architecture was the great material art of the Greeks; landscape gardening, park-making a fine art in modern Europe and new America. Park-making is a painting broadly spread, the canvas depressed here into a valley, while over there it arises to the height of a graceful hill. With pardonable pride America may call the attention of the world to a number of national park paintings. Tourists have written of them, and have snapped the camera upon every feature of their varied countenances. We all of us have our favorites. Some of us cling with a sort of awed fondness to the great unrolling vistas of the West, contemplating the poetry that lies in mysterious distance. Of these mighty regions called parks I stand in awe, as one must while looking upon a moun- tain, a cacti-bristling desert; but to me the gem of all the parks is the government reservation at Hot Springs, Arkansas. This may be sentiment, the reverie that steals upon us when in a picture gallery we view a scene endeared with recollection; but strangers have told me that this admiration comes not only from the treasured memories of the long ago, but that national Hot Springs is possessed of a charm all its own. And I know that this is true. Nowhere are mountains more graceful. Nowhere is there a mist so silvery, flashing in the rise Page three of the sun. You have the feeling that you stand in the presence of a deep mystery, that theories have been advanced but that after all no one knows the source and the cause of the heat that boils this mighty cauldron. Long before Cortez frightened the Aztecs, not with his bellowing cannon but with his neighing horses; long before Columbus ruddered his way to America ; yea, while the Crusaders were marching toward the holy Tomb, ah, before the mud wall of the village of Rome was dry, the North American Indians traveled hundreds of miles to Hot Springs, the fountain of youth, to sit in wise council and to regain their health. In this broad domain there are other hot waters, just as there are varied waters that are cold; but the Hot Springs, Arkansas, seem to be the original, smiling upon all others the blithe ban of imitation. The difference is a mystery, and in this there lies an added charm. The city of Hot Springs, bordered and overlooked by the mountain park, is near the center of population. It is within a few hours of the great cities of the interior. And though the distance be short, it is like going into another world. There is no rawness, but all has been mellowed by time. With the Indians it is ancient; with us it is old. Sixty miles away, in Little Rock, the capital of the state, they are preparing to celebrate the one-hundredth anniversary of the leading morning newspaper of the state. For more than a century people of the South have gone to Hot Springs for pleasure and for recuperation, but it is only within short memory that the North has recognized it as a feature of national attraction. This has been brought about by the artistic landscape painting done by the Government. Artists of world-wide fame have given to the park the creative touch of art. But as much as art has done, nature has done more. Nature threw herself into voluptuous attitudes and stillness caught her. Page four ^~C A> P & &9 five To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Hot Springs National Park OT SPRINGS, Arkansas The great American Spa a jumble of happy memories for the man who has been there a medley of pleasant anticipations for the man who is planning to go! For Hot Springs is a potpourri of waters, waters, outdoor sports, social gayeties, invigorating air, wooded moun- tains, green valleys and more waters. Poets of all ages have celebrated the purity of springs. There was an ancient spring on- Mount Parnassus sacred to the Muses and to Apollo, to drink from which was to become imbued with the spirit of poesy. In later times there have been, in many lands, wells or springs sacred to certain saints. And through all time has run a legend of a fountain of youth, the waters of which had potency to stave off both age and death. There have always been waters to which men and women repaired to recuperate from the strain of living, and these places have invariably become the resorts of fashion. Page six All Rome that was rich or famous went in the season to Baiae on the Bay of Naples, where were warm mineral springs celebrated for their effectiveness in over- coming the consequences of the strenuous life in the Eternal City. The history of springs of this kind is well known. Every country has them. And all down the ages comes testimony that the waters gushing from the bosom of Mother Earth are efficacious in relieving the ills to which the flesh is heir. But of all the world's beneficent waters there are none to compare with the Hot Springs of Arkansas. "Their fame has filled the seven climes." They are abso- lutely unparalleled in hygienic qualities. The testimony to their curative and re- storative powers is overwhelming both in extent and character. And, best of all, these American springs differ from the Roman springs in that they are the mecca not only of the rich and famous, but of the countless thous- ands of everyday citizens of this and foreign countries. Government possession has made them a universal institution. Our First National Park In 1832 Congress, appreciating the unusual value of these waters, set apart a reservation comprising four sections of land surrounding the springs and dedicat- ed it as a national sanitarium for all time. It was our first National Park. Before that time the healing quality of the hot water is thought to have been an open secret among the hardy pioneers who had ventured beyond the narrow confines of eastern civilization. In their intercourse with the Indians many mar- velous tales were doubtless borne to their ears. The hot wells of the Ozarks figured prominently in the traditional history of many of the mid-continent tribes, and it is probable that not a few of the early explorers to whom these stories of won- derful cures were passed, visited the valley to confirm them. But there are no positive historical data fixing the date and giving the name of the first white discoverer. Legends have it that it was the fame of these hot pools which first prompted w: Ponce de Leon to embark upon his romantic search for the fountain of eternal youth. Other and more plausible legends indicate a visit to the spot by De Soto in 1 541 , and it is not unlikely that, later on, many other white men were led to the valley by their red brothers and provided with abundant evidence of the Super- natural Presence to which were ascribed the curative properties of these waters. But our only authentic evidence of white visitors at the springs dates back no farther than the year 1800. Two of Lewis and Clark's explorers, branching out from the main trail of that expedition, visited the place in 1804 and found a log cabin and a few huts which had been the work of white men's hands. Two or three years later a few scattered settlers followed the trail thus blazed. And from that time the reputation of the springs began to spread, each year adding to their fame. None of these early beneficiaries of the waters undertsood the chemical processes by which their health-giving miracles were performed. All that the Indians There are forty-six thermal springs like this welling up from mysterious depths, with an aggregate flow of 826.308 gallons every day. Page seven A Hot Springs Bathhouse. One of the many in which Uncle Sam acts as host and provides every facility for the comfort of his guests. knew, all that the explorers and pioneers knew, was that the baths accomplished their rejuvenation, and that they quieted their aches and pains. The higher civilization which followed them gained a little in knowledge of the water and its application, but our Congress of 1832 knew nothing of radio-activity and even our super-minds of today have not fully fathomed the mystery. The City and Its Visitors Hot Springs National Park adminis- tered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior is situated in the Southwestern part of the state of Arkansas, in the wild and picturesque Ozark Mountain region, 34 miles from Benton and 60 miles from Little Rock, the capital of the state. The waters that give the place its name, gush from the bases of the wooded mountains that comprise the Park, and in the valley is a beautiful city, which nestles against gigantic hills and then spreads out upon a pleasant, broad plain. The cool mountain breezes blow through Page eight this valley in the summer time, and in the winter it is protected by the peaks that rim its basin. Nature is here in an entrancing mood. The Ozarks stand guard over the valley and the busy town, in the splendor of their changing foliages. As a result Hot Springs is not only a world wide health resort, but an inter- national pleasure resort, one of the most popular in the world. It is the great American Spa in the larger sense of the term, and, as such, it is more a pleasure resort than a health resort. Here are neat resort hotels and magnificent bath houses; wooded driveways and winding bridle paths; golf courses, speedways and all the other attractions of a center of sport and fashion. Indeed, if the great Alchemist of the Ozarks were to close His favorite laboratory; if He were to upturn His mysterious crucible and destroy the radium, the silicon and all those elements used in compounding His health-restoring waters; if these waters were blotted entirely from the face of the earth, the city of Hot Springs, because of the tonic in the air, the mild winter climate and the dry summer climate, the glorious green hills and the pleasant meandering valleys, would continue to be a favored spot for rest and recreation. At the hotels in the season from Jan- uary until May though, indeed, lately the season tends to be an all-year matter one may find the smartest company imaginable. The guests come from every- where. They are people of mark leaders of fashion and of sport; political leaders and statesmen; overworked bus- iness men, actors, authors, clergymen all well known in their spheres. The scene is one of animation. The lobbies are a buzz and swirl. There is an intoxicating blend of chatter and laughter. There is music and dancing. And out of the hotels these people swarm into Central Avenue, recalling a parade on Fifth Avenue, New York, or Michigan Avenue in Chicago. In the dining rooms and lounges there is the evening atmosphere of the metropolitan hotels. Time passes gaily. Fashion flourishes. This life overshadows the life of the many who come to conserve or to regain their health. It is intensely cosmopolitan, and the people who make it up are all to be found in the social register. More and more is Hot Springs becom- ing a place of recuperation for tired business men and women. Thousands break away from the rush and grind for a week or ten days of rest and a few of these amazingly restorative baths, in order to go back to new achievements with new force and vigor. The Mountains and Springs The Park comprises more than 900 acres including Hot Springs mountain, North Mountain, West Mountain and Whittington Lake Park. It contains forty-six thermal springs, which have an average aggregate flow of 826,308 gallons daily, and range in temperature from 1 02 to 147 degrees. The mountains of the Park rise about 800 feet above the city. Millions of dollars have been expended by the Government in hewing out roadways, A wooded retreat on the mountain. Many quiet spots like this are to be found within little more than a stone's throw from the business center of the city. Page nine Part of the shopping district a single row of buildings, back of which West Mountain raises a forest-bristling head. trails and walks, that wind around the mountains. At every curve is some new natural picture. The vistas are mag- nificent. The play of light and shade presents ever new combinations of colors. In the forests are open places beautified by means of landscape gardening and pavilions for rest and shelter. Fifteen miles of Government-built drives and walks make these mountains easy to climb. From the great tower on the forested heights one looks down upon the city and into the distance where stretch -farms, dappled with sun and shade. For other wild beauty there is nothing that surpasses the drive through the gorge between North and South Moun- tains. It is a diverting experience to go through this gigantic cleft and observe the evidences everywhere of the tre- mendous past when first great cataclysms tore the huge hills asunder. In the wilderness you come upon patches of smooth velvety green contrast- ing with the jagged cliff sides and the Page ten titanic debris of shattered strata, dozens of feet thick, which mark the road for quite a distance. Bathing Not Only Healthful But Delightful Bathing in the water of Hot Springs is an experience not to be forgotten. It has an effect as of marvelous resiliency, as if it were more solid than water, yet delightfully yielding. The testimony of those who have used this water is that in contact with the body it gives a decided impression of what seems to be best described as magnetism. Within recent years radium has become known as a powerful healing agent. Many cases formerly considered hopeless- ly incurable have yielded readily to its activity, but because of its unlimited energy its use has been confined alto- gether to local applications. No method has ever been devised by man whereby radium may be applied to all parts of a disordered body at the same time. Scarcity and appalling cost have made experiments along that line impossible. But Nature, though carefully guarding her secret, has solved the problem at Hot Springs. The waters are radio- active, and by means of the bath every rheumatic joint, every sealed-up pore of the skin may be not only reached and cleansed of impurities, but renewed under the influence of that brain-baffling cur- ative which we call radio-activity. The waters have been carefully ana- lyzed and the consensus of opinion is that they contain much free carbonic acid gas, a combination of hydrogen and silicon and several other constitutents of less importance. Their natural warmth, which would make any other water in the world un- palatable, does not affect the water here, its composites entirely overcoming such a tendency. People drink it and, when its temperature has been reduced to suit the requirements of each individual case, people bathe in it and go away rejoicing. Its efficacy is best judged by statistics, for according to figures painstakingly compiled, more than ninety per cent of those who have taken a full course of baths have been either cured or benefited by them. In addition to the hot springs there are many cold springs in and about the city. It is seldom that Nature blows hot and cold at the same time; but here, in this favored spot, one doesn't have to go far to see this curious phenomenon, some of the cold springs being found in close proximity to the hot. Many of these have mineral properties solutions of magnesia, iron, potash and sulphur which physicians often prescribe for sys- temic disorders; others are known solely for their pure, fresh water whose purity is superlative. The waters of these are bottled and, in some instances, shipped to distant cities. It is over the bath-houses that the National Park Service exercises the most rigid control. The condition and appoint- ments of each bath-house are inspected regularly by Government officials. Every- thing must appear as represented and everything must be clean and sanitary. Progress of Hot Springs has been marked by the growth and character of the bath house. First the oak-shaded temple of the Indian; then the cabin of the pioneer, and finally, through various stages of development. the stone and granite structure of modern civilization. Page eleven BUILDINGS . COMFORT STATIONS PAVILIONS = ROADS TRAILS ELECTRIC STREET CAB LINES RAILROAD SCALE OF FEET Page twelve LEGEND The numbers in this list refer to the number* on the map: 1. Superintendent's office. 2. Lamar bathhouse. 3. Buckstaff baths. 4. Ozark bathhouse. 5. Magnesia bathhouse. 6. Government free bathhouse. 7. Fordyce bathhouse. 8. Main entrance to reservation. 9. Maurice bathhouse. 10. Hale bathhouse. 11. Superior bathhouse. 12. Arlington Hotel and baths. 13. Superintendent's residonrr (old). 14. Rockafellow Hotel and baths. 15. Majestic Hotel and baths. 16. St. Joseph's Infirmary and baths. 17. Whittington Lake Park. 18. Keeper's residence. 19. First Presbyterian Church. 20. Catholic Church. 21. Rector bathhouse and Waukcsha Hotel. 22. Milwaukee Hotel. 23. Pullman Hotel. 24. Arkansas National Bank. 25. Masonic Temple. 26. First Baptist Church. 27. Leo N. Levi Memorial Hospital and bathhouse. 28. Goddard Hotel. 29. Alhambra bathhouse. 30. Moody Hotel and baths. 31. Court House. 32. Como Hotel. 33. Central Methodist Church. 34. High School Building. 35. Ozark Sanitorium bathhouse. 36. Railroad Station. 37. Railroad Station. 38. City Hall and Auditorium Theatre. 39. Business Men's League. 40. Post Office. 41. Great Northern Hotel. 42. Citizens' National Bank. 43. Marquette Hotel. 44. Arkansas Trust Company. 45. Security Bank. 46. Eastman Hotel and baths. 47. Elks' Club. 48. Episcopal Church. 49. Superintendent's residence (new). 50. Imperial bathhouse. 51. Pump house (pumps water to drinking fountains at summit of Hot Springs Mountain). 52. Tower. 53. Iron Spring (cold). 54. Dugan-Stuart Building. 55. Thompson Building. North, West, and Hot Springs Mountains and Whittington Lake Park form the per- manent Hot Springs Reservation, administered by the National Park Service of the Depart- ment of the Interior. Page thirteen When Uncle Sam acts as host, there must be nothing to mar the pleasure of his guests. On another page of this booklet will be found a list of bath-houses giving the rates of each. These rates are regu- lated by the Government and vary ac- cording to the equipment and accommo- dations furnished. On Bath House Row, the noted Midway of the place, there are ten bath-houses covering a space of about three blocks. Besides these, there are other bath-houses in various parts of the city, some of which are operated in con- nection with the hotels. All use the same water and are under the same official supervision. There is also a Government free bath-house for those who are unable to pay for the service, and in connection with the Army and Navy Hospital a bath-house is maintained for the benefit of our disabled soldier and sailor boys. Although the cures effected are some- times almost miraculous, there is nothing extraordinary in the method of adminis- tering the bath. Equipment and appli- ances are better than are to be found in the average home. The tubs are large, the attendants attentive. There are needle baths and vapor baths for those who desire them, but the main object is a thorough immersion in the hot radio- active water in the tub. When the bath has been taken, the patron proceeds from the high tempera- ture of the first cooling room to the almost normal temperature of the last, tarryin} in each of the intermediate cooling rooi long enough to avoid sudden chani Finally comes the after-glow of the bal as he lies luxuriously upon one of tl cooling room couches, conversing lazib with his fellow-patrons or simply resting. Truly, to bathe in the waters of Hot Springs is to feel the hand of Nature ii one of her most helpful moods gentl< caressing, touching the body lighth and without inflicting the slightest paii The Many Hotels One hotel in Hot Springs the East- man can care for a thousand guests. Two others the Majestic and the Arling- ton have a capacity of 500 each. The Como and the Goddard have accom- modations for 250 to 300, and a score of others can entertain from 25 to 125 each. In addition there are 500 boarding and rooming houses, furnished cottages and Hot Springs not only provides facilities for play, but creates a desire to play. The prospect of a crystal-water bath at the end of the game lends an added zest to golf. Page fourteen i" 1 !. ll'." EMU?' "V - The "Sport of Kings" is a favorite pastime at Hot Springs, and here many interesting chapters of racing history have been written. apartments. The Business Men's League of Hot Springs, Arkansas, is an enter- prising and reliable civic organization available for the purpose of assisting visitors in locating quarters to suit their purses. This service is free. How the Visitor "Comes Back" The spirit of Hot Springs creeps into the veins of the newcomer unawares. The average visitor enters the valley fagged out mentally and physically. He is the victim of too much applied energy in one direction, and a sense of relief, of freedom from care, steals over him as he establishes himself in his commodious quarters and prepares for a good rest. When he enters upon his course of baths, his business or domestic problems, though pigeonholed somewhere in the back of his head, have not been entirely forgotten. For the first few days he lies upon his cooling- room couch, his body relaxed, his eyes closed, his ears deaf to the voices of those about him. Then, suddenly, he awakes. A new and un- usual feeling of animation possesses him. His blood is beginning to tingle. His old-time energy is coming back to him and his thoughts are turn- ing to golf, to tennis, to horse-back riding and to all those amusements which interested him before the days that had brought more serious affairs to claim all his time and to hold his nose too steadily to the hard surface of the business grind- stone. Then it is that he begins to appreciate what is happening to him, to understand that the baths have driven all sluggishness from his blood, have given him the energy not only to work but to play and have created in him the desire to play. And he plunges joyfully into the whirlpool of Hot Springs activity. Recreation and Amusements There is enjoyment for all in the amusements, sports and social activities at Hot Springs. The out-of-doors life, made possible by the mild southern climate, is always alluring. The driveways are enlivened by coaching parties and elaborate liveried "turnouts", for the spirited horse still holds his own against the automobile at Hot Springs. On both the drive- ways and bridle paths the number of equestrians is unusual, horseback riding being a favorite exercise. The horse at Hot Springs is still given the honor that is due him. It is claimed that no city of equal size in the world can boast a greater number of superb saddle animals. Ken- tucky bred and full of mettle, but trained to the use of the inexperienced. There is also the famous Oaklawn race track, where many chapters of racing history have been written. Under the regulations automobiles are per- mitted on certain of the mountain roads of the Reservation, and the adjoining country furnishes ample opportunity for more extended motor trips. Good roads are numerous, and among them is one leading to Little Rock, the capital of the state. Happy Days on the Golf Links In these modern times no resort is complete without its golf links so there is a course at Hot Springs. The Hot Springs Country Club is located beyond the city limits, but within easy reach. It comprises 250 acres of rolling green with an 18-hole course, the holes varying in length from 1 00 to 500 yards. Naturally there is the adjunct of a spacious and attractive club Page fifteen house. From the veranda of the latter, 1 6 of the 18 putting greens are visible, as well as 6,500 yards of the fairway. The course is well cared for and meets every demand of the most exacting professional. The tees and putting greens are of packed sand, while the fairway is of Bermuda grass. The greens as a whole are of rare land- scape beauty and the hazards, or many of them, have been supplied by nature. Matches and tournaments are scheduled in season; and the payment of a small fee admits all visitors to the privileges of the club house and golf course. Base Ball and Tennis During the training season major league base ball clubs are at Hot Springs for the baths and preliminary work, in consequence of which the visitor is at that time treated to some of the finest exhibition games. Tennis courts have been laid out in various localities and in their settings are ample for the use of the professional or the amateur. Whittington Lake Amusement Park Whittington Lake Park largely partakes of the nature of an amusement park. Athletic sports, band concerts, the summer theatre, animals, electric fountains, swings, tennis courts, base ball fields and a variety of other features make it a place where care-free crowds congregate in large numbers. Nearby are the alligator and ostrich farms. The Ostrich Farm Of the ostrich it has been said that those great gawky birds are of all things animate the "most innocently powerful", and the "most powerfully innocent". They are a study these birds a kick from whose legs has power to kill and whose wonderful eyes create speculations as to whether their little twinkle means mischief or a joke. Of course the display of feathers, of which they are proud , are of special interest to the women. One learns much as to the characteristics and the habits of this bird at the farm. As an amusement feature, birds trained for the purpose are ridden astride, or harnessed and driven to little sulkies. Alligator Farm At the Alligator Farm hundreds of 'gators ai exhibited, ranging in length from a few inches twenty feet, and in age from a few days old to hundred or two hundred years. The alligatc is not pleasing to look at. He has a vicious and a more vicious tail. As you look over tl exhibit you are pleased to know that such un- beautiful things make up into such very nit handbags. The Social Life If not interested in the waters, the visitor forget that the place is a Spa. Behind the bat! houses on Bath House Row rise the gloric Ozark Hills with all their pleasures. The great* hotels are resort hotels. There is the music the dancing, the entertainments of many kinds and the invigorating outdoor life saturated wit the romantic spirit of the South. There is tl riding, the golfing, the motoring, the mountaii climbing and all the rest. One may spend a wl season in these pleasures alone and America, for Hot Springs draws its patrons fror every nook and corner of the country. Or one may live this invigorating life have the stimulus of morning baths besides; tl greater hotels have their own unobtrusive batl houses, and the baths are for the well and weai as well as for the sick. Or, if he wants the Spa life, he may have tl to the full. A few steps cityward, and there ai the bath houses, some of them finer and completely equipped with scientific bathing systems and appliances than those of the most The entrance to the Reservation. Page sixteen At the foot of these steps, the busy whirl of the city; at the top. absolute rest and quiet in the woods of Hot Springs Mountain. Off for a morning cantei To those who have inherited that love of the hors automobile. Hot Springs offers an ideal which famous Spas abroad. He may live this life to its full, sitting in the parks, taking the Oertel walks, drinking the waters as well as bathing in them. Or he may combine the two kinds of life in any proportion he pleases. For convalescents the so-called Oertel System of Graduated walking courses is very beneficial. These courses are indicated by painted stone monuments with a distance number cut on two faces. By these monuments, patients can easily see the distance they have walked. The first or yellow course, is comparatively level; the second, or green course, slightly inclined; the third, or blue course, fairly steep; and the fourth, or red course, very steep. The length and character of the walks taken under this system are determined by physicians, according to the condition and progress of patients. Expenses at Hot Springs Following is the published scale of ratea for baths at different bath houses receiving water from the Hot Springs Reservation, as published by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior; also a Hat of hotels and board- ing houses together with their rates. For further details of specific interest concerning Hot Springs not covered herein, apply to th DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR. National Park Service, Washington. D. C. BUREAU OF SERVICE. NATIONAL PARKS AND MONUMENTS. TRAVEL BUREAU WESTERN LINES. 646 Transportation Building. Chicago. Illinois BUSINESS MEN'S LEAGUE. Hot Springs. Arkansas SCALE OF RATES FOR BATHS AT DIFFERENT BATHHOUSES RECEIVING WATER FROM THE HOT SPRINGS RESERVATION Single bath Course Course of 21 baths Single bath Course Course of 21 baths Bathhouse Single baths plus at- tendant's of 21 baths plus at- tendant's Bathhouse Single baths plus at- tendant's of 21 baths plus at- tendant's fee fees fee fees Arlington $0.65 $0.85 $12.00 $16.00 Superior $0.50 $0.70 $0.90 $13.00 Fordyce .65 .85 12.00 16.00 .45 .65 800 12 00 Buckstaff .60 .80 11.00 15.00 Rector .45 .65 8.00 12.00 Maurice .60 .80 11.00 15.00 Rockafellow .45 .65 8.00 12.00 Imperial 55 75 10 00 14 00 Eastman. . . . .55 .75 10 00 14 00 45 65 8 00 12 00 Majestic 55 75 10 00 14 00 40 60 7 00 1 1 00 Hale 50 70 9 00 13 00 Oza*k 40 60 7 00 1 1 00 Moody . . . .50 .70 9.00 13.00 Alhambra .40 .60 7.00 11.00 St. Joseph'. In- Pythian Sanato- nrmary . . . 50 70 9 00 13 oo 30 50 5 00 9 00 Page seventeen Page eighteen LIST OF HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES AT HOT SPRINGS, ARKANSAS, COMPILED BY THE BUSINESS MEN'S LEAGUE NAME OF PLACE Capacity RA Per Day TES Per Week Plan Proprietor or Manager Alamo 30 persons $1.00 up $7 00 up Mrs B B Spivey 1 00 2 50 up F M Ezell 500 persons 4 to $8 28 00 up tW Corrington Bcldin House 1 00 6 00 up D Beldin 3 00 up 1 00 up 8 to $10 Mrs Robt Barnes Burhops B 11 8 to $10 Mrs J H Burhop Campbell House 40 persons 1 00 up 6 00 up I p' Perry 5 to $7 Colonial Hotel 75 persons 1 . 00 up 7 00 up Central Hotel 00 up Special W W Little Chestnut Hotel 25 persons 1.50 7 00 up H P Thornaa Crittendon Hotel (colored) 1 00 up 7 00 up G E Crittendon 30 persons 1 .50 10 00 up 1.00 up Special Al A Reynolds 1 00 6 00 up 50 persons 2.00 9 to $12 Darch Hotel (Jewish) 75 2 00 up Dayton Hotel 40 persons .50 up 2 50 up Fred L Kerr Delrnar Hotel 2 00 10 00 C C Harvey Dclmar Hotel 1 .00 7 00 C. C. Harvey 1000 persons 1 00 up Special W E Chester Eddy Hotel 5 to $15 Mrs B F Pace 1 .00 up 7 to $10 Fulton Hotel 20 persons 1.50 up .75 8.00 up 1 50 up American Scherrick & Co. Mrs R Bennie Goddard Hotel 1 50 up 5 to$!5 50 Mrs J A Barton Gray's Boarding House Gt Northern Hotel 25 persons 1.50 75 up 10.00 up 3 00 up American Mrs. L. Gray Mrs C Hutsell Garrison Hotel 50 persons .50 up 3 00 up Mrs. J. M. Smith Glenwood Hotel 1 00 6 to $8 N E Bryant Home Hotel 50 persons 1.50 up 8 to $10 Mrs.A.A.McColIough 50 up 2 00 up Hill Crest 20 persons 1.50 up 8 00 up C. H. Dibble Hinkle House 8 00 up Mrs F Hinkle 50 2 to $3 Mrs M Hoxie 60 persons 1.50 7 to $ 1 2 T H Cathcart Jerwick Hotel (Jewish) 2 00 up 12 00 up Mrs H Jerwick Kempner Hotel 1 5 persons 1.00 7 00 up P K. Crawford 2 00 12 50 up Mrs W E Lauher Kyle Rooms 25 persons 1 50 to $3 Mrs. E. E. Kyle 1 00 up 7 to $12 Mrs M Watts Lester House 25 persons 2 50 up T. M. Baughm Leon Hotel 75 3 00 up p J Murphy Majestic Hotel 500 persons 2.50 up Harry A. Jones Marion Hotel . 1 25 up 8 50to$IO Asbury & Wallon Marquette Hotel 1 50 persons 1 .00 up European Chas. G. Orr Maurice Hotel 1 00 up 6 00 up Mrs M. D. Brady Maurice Hotel 13 50 American Mrs. M. D. Brady McCrary Hotel Melba Rooms 75 persons 1 5 persons 2.00 8.00 up 3.50 to $7 American European Mrs. M. P. McCrary J. M. Frisby Metropolitan Rooms Milwaukee Hotel 20 persons 1 00 persons 2.50 up 2.50 up 15 00 up European American Miss Thompson J. P. Hickey . Moody Hotel 250 persons 2. 50 up 17.50 up 5 00 up American N. M. Moody W A Smith Morris Cottage 2 00 up W. A. Smith Murray Rooms 2 50 to $3 Mrs B Murray Napoleon Hotel 25 person 1 .00 up 2 50 to $5 Mrs. F. Rawles Nettles House 8 to $12 Mrs E. C. Nettles New Dayton Hotel New Haven Hotel 40 person .50 up 00 up 2. 50 up 7 to $10 European Fred L. Kerr Mrs. Ida L. Parrott New Capitol Hotel 50 person .00 up 2 00 up European Mrs. N. J. Planks New Hot Springs 50 persons 3 50 up Shannon Gower New Lindell Hotel 00 up Special Mrs A. H. Houaley ! New National Hotel New Orleans 40 persons .00 up 00 8 to $12 2 00 up American Mrs. DeVall Mrs. E. T. Deickreide Ohio House 25 persons .00 5 00 up Callahan Bros. 1 Pacific House 3 50 to $4 S J. Smith Plateau Hotel 1 5 person 3 00 up European C. F. Cook ' Penedleton Hotel 50 2 50 up F. A. Coutlee 1 Palm Hotel 30 person 2 50 up European S. Clement Parker's Boarding House 2.00 II 00 up Mrs. J. L. Parker Pullman Hotel 1 00 up 5 to $15 Jas. A. Longinotti Putnam Hotel 65 persons 1 . 00 up 5 to $7 D. B. Davis Putnam Hotel 9 to $12 D. B. Davis Palace Hotel 80 persons 1 .00 3 50 up European Woodcock & Womack : Richmond Hotel 9 to $ 1 5 Mrs. E. B. Elliston Rockafellow Hotel . . Rockafellow Hotel 75 persons 2.00 1.00 14.50 up 3 50 to $7 American E. S. Putnam E. S. Putnam Saratoga Hotel 50 persons .50 3 to $5 European R. H. Baird i Savoy Hotel 60 persons .50 3 to $5 European Mrs. Allie Street Southern Hotel 60 persons 8 to $12 American Mrs. Mary Bradley Spaulding 1 00 4 00 up H A. Spaulding St. Charles.... 1.50 10 50 to 17 50 H. Doherty St. Charles. 3 00 up H. Doherty St. John's Place .'. Shelton House 20 persons 1.50 7.00 up 2 50 to $3 American Benedictine Sisters Tom Shelton Taylor House 40 persons 1.50 up 10 50 up American Miss Una Taylor (Continued on page 21) Page nineteen Page twenty A view from Hot Springs Mountain. List of Hotels and Boarding Houses at Hot Springs, Arkansas, Compiled by the Business Men's League Continued NAME OF PLACE Capacity RA' Per Day FES Per Week Plan Proprietor or Manager iTarkington House 1 25 up 8 00 up 1 00 5 00 up I A T J iTownsend pe . 2 50 12 50 1 5 3 00 up 'Union Hotel 8 00 up IWaukesha Hotel 2 50 17 50 A.i f Williamson's Boarding House 10 00 up Wilson's Cozy Inn 1.50 up European Mr lr\^ Wilann Railroad Tickets Throughout the year, round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at practically all stations in the United States to Hot Springs, Ark., as a destination. Passengers en route to iother destinations will find stop-over privileges available on both one-way and round-trip tickets, for the purpose of making side- trips to Hot Springs. Park Administration Hot Springs National Park is under the juris- diction of the Director, National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Hot Springs, Ark. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be made by Money Order or in cash. by J Analysis of the Waters of the Hot Springs of Arkansas. K. Haywood. and Geological Sketch of Hot Springs. f\rk.. by waiter Harvey Webb. 5o pages. IU cents. The National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National Parks. Pamphlet edition 3 5 cent*. Book edition 55 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. t or by personal application to the office of the Superintendent of the Park. Circular of General Information Regarding Hot Springs of Arkansas. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parka and Monu- ments, and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office, or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines; 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111.: Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park. Oregon. Glacier National Park. Montana. Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona. Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands. Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas. Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado. Mount Rainier National Park. Washington. Northern Lakes Wisconsin, Minnesota. Upper Michigan, Iowa and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Yosemite National Park. California. Zion National Monument. Utah. Page twenty-one ;^pK *# 3Ka i Htt I Page t we n t y - t w o I i^. " . ." r _.r "v K O T If S. D M | ^^Sfcss^ .A-W N E a R -Vti 2 K UNTi7iLiV rtC^r; 1 OrM *~UM> A w "IBSS """T *.. /Va? XfcjV. S*hoo "** o ; ,.^-. o^ : rH 4^.' \ f Mv^^4te% : ^ t .L ,_._.:L; Ml . . '.. ?5 S.,,1 "'' jC^ff^^H^fc! '"'"""! -"o.rc ^C A ^'tfW" N A / M E\x" HJ 1 '' u '"l V~-f^"-^s/ ""-7^ -i 1 * ^--^ *'-;./ ",, LA* aJ -^;Jg/_ r ^-- 1 -*- T E X A * S aSC ^. i*ltarff ' I'm,!. I L LI N 01 ?ffi&M fort WortH .PACIFIC' OCCAM THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS GULF The National Parks at a Glance. United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to anj of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Austin, Tex 521 Congress Ave. Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. Ill . 1 79 W. Jackson St. Colorado Springs, Colo. I19E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 1 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines, Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex. . . .Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y. .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus. Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. Asheville. N. C 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta. Ga... . .74 Peachtree St. Lincoln, Neb 104 N. I 3th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Cal . .L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles. Cal 221 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal. . .Pacific Elec. Depot Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. 111. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. Tacoma. W St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. Waco. Tex St. Louis. Mo. Whittier. Cal . . . 318-328 North Broadway J Winnipeg. Man. East Detroit, Mich ... 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . .L. & N. R. R. Bldg. St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento. Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Tex. 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal 50 Post St. San Jose. Cal.. I st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La.. Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. .1117-19 Pacific Ave. 6th and Franklin Sts. .L. A. & S. L. Station 226 Portage Ave. Augusta. Ga , Birmingham, Ala. . Charleston. S. C. . . Charlotte. N. C Chattanooga, Tenn. Columbia. S. C Jacksonville. Fla. . . ...811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave. . Charleston Hotel ..22S. TryonSt. ..81 7 Market St. .Arcade Building ...38 W. Bay St. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 1 12-14 English Block Montreal, Que 238 St. James St. Newark. N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. South Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St. Lexington. Ky Union Station Louisville. Ky. . . .4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery. Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville. Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La St. Charles Hotel Norfolk. Va. . . . Monticello Hotel Philadelphia. Pa. ... 1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh. Pa Arcade Building Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. Syracuse. N. Y 355 S. Warren St. Toledo. Ohio 320 Madison Ave. Washington. D. C. . . 1229 F St. N. W. Williamsport. Pa 4th and Pine Sts. Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Chicago. Page twenty-three SEASON. 1919 Bath H ouse Row One of the most popular thoroughfares in America. in I National Pa.rk L O A. D An Appreciation of Mesa Verde National Park By DR. J. WALTER FEWKES, Chief, Bureau of America n Ethnology, Smithsonian Institution Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration OME with me to the Mesa Verde, and with me lift the veil that conceals the past and reveals the culture of an unlettered people whose history has been forgotten. What fascination to wander through the streets of a ruined city, to enter the long deserted sanctuaries, examine the paintings and figures on the walls, and live in imagination the life of an ancient people! Time was when American travelers sought distant lands to commune in this way with the past, but now we can turn to our own country. Our great rail- roads will carry the tourist near the towns once populous but now deserted and in ruins. The Mesa Verde National Park, containing many of these ancient monuments, has been protected by our Government for this special purpose. It invites all with little discomfort to withdraw from the world of the present with its bustle and noise to live mentally for a time in the past of our own country. Every one who has accepted an invitation to visit this Park has declared his intention to return. Why this lure of the Mesa Verde? Why does mention of its forgotten people cause the weary face of the careworn to relax and his eye to brighten with the light of joy? Because the mystery kindles the imagination and revivifies their life and struggles. Who were these ancient people? When did they live and what became of them? These questions are perennial in their interest. The Mesa Verde beckons the visitor to its canyons, where once lived the dusky maid who ground the corn in a primitive mill as she sang her song in unison with her mates; here one can see the crude fire- places where the food was cooked, and the rooms where the priest worshipped his gods; and you can wander through the streets now deserted but once filled with the busy life of the little brown people. There can be seen also the foot-holes cut in the rock where the women climbed from the spring to their eerie dwellings carrying their jars of water. No book can take the place of experience or impress the mind in the same way. One must see for himself these homes in their proper settings in the canyon walls, with the hazy mountains on the distant horizon; the lofty rocky pinnacle that like a phantom ship sails the valley on the south; the Sleeping Ute, far behind which was the house of the cliff dwellers' sun god; and Lookout Mountain, like a sentinel guarding the approaches. Let us then turn our steps from the rush of the modern commercial world to the silence of the Mesa Verde, where the high mesa, cedar clad, and furrowed by deep canyons, refreshes the spirit of man, and where imagination parent of poetry speaks to us of a people unlike ourselves that once nourished and disappeared. Page three To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. _. Secretary of the Interior Mesa Verde National Park HERE is always a fascination about the unexplainable and the attraction becomes greater if we are enabled to come in contact with the mysterious object and endeavor to con- jure up an explanation. In Mesa Verde National Park opportunities for such speculation are offered lavishly. The southwestern portion of the United States contains many ruins of dwellings and other structures left by prehistoric peoples who had reached a high degree of civilization long before the discovery of America. These people are supposed to have been the ancestors of the Pueblo Indians, although differing from them in many particulars, one of the more obvious being the fact that most of the modern Pueblos build their houses of sun-baked bricks (adobe), whereas the ancients used cut stone. Of all the groups of these ruins, those on the Mesa Verde, in Montezuma County, southwestern Colorado, are con- ceded to be the largest, best preserved and most picturesquely situated, and it was for these reasons that Congress in 1 906 set aside 48,966 acres of this section and designated it Mesa Verde National Park. Probably the most striking feature of this mesa (or tableland) is the succession of great gashes in its contour, leading southward and entering the larger canyon P a ^ e four of the Mancos River. These side canyons are usually devoid of streams, but in ages past erosion worked enormous cavities in their sides toward the top, and it was in these places, under the overhanging cliffs, which offered such promise of pro- tection from the elements and from their enemies, that the prehistoric pioneers built their homes. And one cannot fail to admire the ability displayed in their choice. From the Cliff Dwellers' stand- point the sites selected were ideal. Most of us are not ethnologists, but it is our privilege to make conjectures in our own humble way. While eminent archaeologists have solved many of the leading mysteries in connection with these long-vanished people, the ordinary visitor may still wander among the ruins of their remarkable habitations and reach his own conclusions in regard to the many interesting problems that are always presenting themselves. There are so many ruins in the Park, and reached with the minimum of time and exertion, that the contemplative man can be much by himself and, unhampered by the presence of other visitors, can find an absorbing occupation in seeking to discover the motives that governed the .selection of certain building sites or the adoption of certain features in construction the placing of a door at this point, the use of a peculiar wind there, the insertion of a port-hole in A TYPICAL LANDSCAPE IN MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK wall with an angle quite oblique to the latter, or the strange and most interesting arrangement of the kivas, which a face- tious visitor has termed "prehistoric club- rooms." In the less carefully finished portions of the walls the imaginative man will doubtless place his fingers on the mortar in the marks left by prehistoric hands and ponder. While these primitive artisans were humbly and laboriously fashioning the abodes in which this civilization was being developed inde- pendent of Europe, what was happening on that continent? Were the Crusaders then faring forth to the Holy Land? Or did the Cliff Dwellers ante-date that time? Had Pompeii been destroyed? Had Caesar landed in Britain? Various have been the conjectures as to the period of occupancy of these dwellings, and one may make guesses ad libitum. There is an especial fascination in the ancient trails, where these primitive people's sandaled feet wore smooth the steps which they had laboriously cut in the solid rock. And it is not at all difficult to imagine the use of these steps in that far-off time the huntsmen setting forth in the early morning with their well made bows and flint-pointed arrows, the girls and women proceeding with their household duties, gracefully carrying on their heads the large water jars, of which so many are found, the children playing around their homes and upon the adjacent cliffs in fact, one can almost hear their childish cries and laughter. And some- where about the homes we can imagine the weavers at work making the cotton cloth and the feather cloth, specimens of which are still found in the ruins. At another place the women are grinding corn with stones. Out in the open, a man is sharpening tools and weapons on a great rock, which is still in place. Some of the inhabitants are at work in the fields, probably on the mesa above the dwelling, cultivating the corn, pumpkins and squashes, the evidences of which are so plentiful in the debris. At another place the potters are carefully fashioning the vessels which they made in such per- fection, and not far away are the dec- orators, painstakingly mixing colors and placing designs upon the ware. There was surely the hum of busy life on the Mesa Verde in the old days! For the Cliff Dwellers were an industrious people. If nothing else, the construction of their houses bears conclusive evidence of this; and their environment, tending to a vigorous life, was not calculated to pro- duce an anaemic race. In the primitive arts they had made remarkable advances, and it is to be regretted that they had not evolved some system of writing more elaborate than the simple signs which Page five MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK COLORADO Scale - ... Boundary Automobile Roads Trails Page six are occasionally found on their walls. The Mesa Verde is Uncle Sam's only National Park created for the preserva- tion of antiquities, although there are several National Monuments that have been established with that end in view. The beautiful scenery, the invigorating air, and the camp life, with its maximum of freedom and minimum of discomfort, rival the prehistoric remains themselves in tending to make a vacation spent here of great value to the individual and one long to be remembered. The Land of the Cliff Dwellers It was in 1874 that W. H. Jackson, then Government photographer with Hayden's Geological Survey, found numerous small prehistoric ruins in the cliffs on the sides of the Mancos River in southwestern Colorado and wrote an excellent account of them for the Annual Report. In the following year Prof. W. H. Holmes, of the Smithsonian Institution, made an exploration in the same locality. It was not until 1888, however, that Richard Wetherill and Charley Mason, cattle men living near Mancos, accident- ally discovered the great Cliff Palace, farther northward, in one of the side canyons leading from the Mesa Verde into the Mancos River. The point from which they got their first glimpse of the majestic ruin tucked away in a great cavern near the top of the canyon is still pointed out on the opposite side near the recently excavated Sun Temple, and the visitor who first sees Cliff Palace from this standpoint can well imagine the cries of amazement and admiration that must have escaped the young men's lips as they gazed upon this evidence of a long-for- gotten people. Spruce Tree House was discovered the same day, and others later. In 1891, Baron Gustav Nordenskib'ld, a young Swedish scientist, left Stockholm for a trip around the world, but he got no farther than America. In Colorado he visited the Mesa Verde, and his sub- sequent explorations in that region took up the entire summer. His investigations were published at length in a monumental work (printed in 1893 at Stockholm, but in the English language) entitled "The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde". Among book collectors this folio, with its fine typography and superb illustrations has become one of the rarities. It can be seen in most of the large libraries and is well worth examination. Nordenskiold was an expert photographer, and his ex- cellent work is reproduced throughout the volume. Nordenskiold's death in 1895, (two years after his book was published) at the early age of twenty-seven, must have been a distinct loss to archaeological re- search in America. Since his day much BALCONY HOUSE This spectacular ruin is in a cavern high up on the side of a canyon. The balcony may be seen at the farther end. Pa g e seven Page eight CLIFF PALACE A view from the opposite side of Cliff Canyon, near the point from which some stray cattle. This is the largest CMATIONAL PARK rtjghted in 1888 by Richard Wetherill and Charley Mason, who were seeking *l-eing 300 feet long; it contained 200 rooms. \P a g e nine more extensive explorations have been made on the Mesa by Dr. Edgar L. Hewett and other ethnologists, but prin- cipally by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, Chief of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Smithsonian Institution. The larger and more accessible ruins have been cleared of debris, weak walls strengthened, etc., and it is now an easy matter for the tourist to visit and examine them. CENTRAL PORTION OF CLIFF PALACE At the right is the Round Tower; at the left the Speaker Chief's House. Near the center is a rock too large for the primitive builders to remove, the structure having been erected around it. The Mesa and the Ruins The prospective visitor to the Mesa Verde should disabuse his mind of the impression, which seems to prevail generally, that this portion of Colorado is exceptionally dry. On the con- trary, it is one of the best watered sections of the State, and as a consequence the Montezuma Valley, in which the Mesa Verde is situated, is a favored agricultural district. Trees abound, and it seems somewhat strange that the Spanish name "Mesa Verde" ("green tableland") should have been given to the particular portion where the largest prehistoric habitations are found, in view of the fact that other portions of the Monte- zuma Valley are equally green. The railroad gateway to Mesa Verde National Park is Mancos, Colorado. Leaving this point by automobile, the road leads us through the open farming country which forms the pictur- esque little Valley of the Mancos River. This is the county road leading to Cortez, the county- seat, twenty miles from the railroad. We leave it, however, a few miles out and, turning to the left on the new Government road, soon commence the ascent of the Mesa Verde near its northern extremity, Point Lookout. From the top we obtain a magnificent view of the great valley to the east and north. While in an air line the main group of Cliff Dwellings is but ten miles southwest of Mancos. the journey over the Mesa to that point is thirty-two miles because of the numerous small canyons which intervene, neces- sitating alternate turns to the south and to the north. Presently on one of the turns south- ward we obtain a view of the actual Cliff Dwell- ing section. Miles to the south we see what appear to be white streaks among the green. These are really the tops of the canyons in which the prehistoric structures are found, although at this distance there is practically no re- semblance to the gorges as seen close at hand, and the uninitiated invariably have to be told. But, beyond, there are beautiful sights in the hazy blues and purples that need no explanation, except as to names and locations. We may now enjoy the novelty of standing in one State, Colorado, and looking into three others Utah, Arizona and New Mexico. This is the only place in the country where four States join each other at right-angles. Far to the south rises a great rock, its top said to be 1 ,800 feet above the surrounding plain, which has the appearance of a vessel under full sail. This is Shiprock, over the border in New Mexico. Still beyond are the Chuckluck and Carizo Mountains of Arizona. Close to us on the west is Ute Mountain also called "The Sleeping Ute", its resemblance to a human figure lying prone upon its back, with folded arms, flowing hair to the north and toes to the south, being most remarkable. Beyond the Ute are the Blue Mountains of Utah, which in days gone by were the refuge of evil-doers seeking to evade justice. Northwestward, and so distant that the air must be fairly clear to render them visible, are the La Sal Mountains in the same State. To the north is Lone Cone Peak, in Colorado, and to the right of it the Needle Mountains, while nearer at hand and to the east are the La Plata Mountains in the vicinity of Durango. In whatever direction you look, the view is sublime. The ride over the beautiful Mesa in the bracing air is an experience in itself. An Easterner recently made the remark, while passing over the road, that, even if there were nothing unusual to be seen at the end of his trip, this drive alone was worth the journey from his home. Just before arriving at the more densely wood- ed portion of the Mesa to the south, we cross an open tract in which numerous low mounds are visible, and the sharp eye will detect stones that have an angular shape. Each of these mounds was once a structure in which the pre- historic inhabitants took pride. For what mortal could spend days upon days so carefully shaping and smoothing with primitive tools the rocks for his home and then as carefully placing them stone upon stone with his especially prepared mortar, without feeling on completion even more satisfaction than we experience in our far superior abodes? It has been said that, if all these mounds could be excavated, our present road would be leading us through a district strewn with prehistoric remains. One of the largest of the mounds was opened in 1916 by Dr. Fewkes and found to contain a unique and very remarkable structure. We are soon threading our way through the cedars and pinyons. The former are hoary old veterans, with shaggy coats, twisted trunks and limbs in fact, some of their limbs are dead, while others still tenaciously cling to the life which they seem loth to leave. These old cedars, or junipers, are the trees that might tell us a tale, if only they could speak. The pinyons are younger and probably have nothing to say. Having left Mancos at 2:00 o'clock in the afternoon, by 5:00 the automobile is at Spruce Tree Camp, where good accommodations will be found. Tents with raised floors and numerous conveniences are provided, and meals are served in a large frame building close at hand. A roomy protection is provided for automobiles. There are electric lights and also telephone connection with the outside world. Near the brink of the canyon is the museum, of appropriate log con- struction. On the spacious veranda of the museum one can sit at ease and look down and across the canyon upon the imposing ruin of Spruce Tree House in its picturesque setting of green. Spruce Tree House Spruce Tree House, one of the largest of the ruins, is situated a few hundred yards down the canyon from Spruce Tree Camp. It is very easily reached by a most attractive, shaded trail. At the head of the canyon under a great over- hanging ledge, is a fine spring of cold water. One feature of the Mesa Verde is its abundant supply of good drinking water, every one of the principal Cliff Dwellings having a spring either in the cave itself or close at hand. Spruce Tree House is 2 16 feet long and 89 feet wide at its greatest width. There have been counted 114 rooms and eight kivas. In places the structure was three stories high, and it is estimated to have housed 350 people. Probably the first features to attract our attention are the circular openings, averaging perhaps fifteen feet in diameter. These are the kivas mentioned above. They were underground and are sup- posed to have been used as gathering places by the men of the different clans, also for secret ceremonials. The doors and windows of all the dwellings will be found very interesting. They are usually small and well made. A modern architect has pointed out that these primitive people had discovered the use of the sill and lintel in making these openings, but not of the jamb. Some of them are rectangular, while others are in the unique Cliff Dwelling style of a T. with the upper portion shortened. A large cross of this character is found painted in red on the wall of one of the rooms in Spruce Tree House. Another curious feature in their construction work is the fact that in laying their courses of stone they did not systematically break the joints such breaking as was done appears to have been accidental. Yet the walls held together remarkably well. In some of the rooms small port-holes will be found, sometimes placed at an angle oblique to the wall. It would appear beyond question that these were for defensive purposes. Cliff Palace Cliff Palace, the largest of the Mesa Verde Cliff Dwellings, is at the head of Cliff Canyon, and, as usual, in a great cave on the side of the cliff, and near the top. It is preferable for one to get his first view of this ruin from across the canyon, near Sun Temple, that being the point from which the discoverers first caught sight of it in 1888. From that vantage ground, showing the castle-like walls and towers in the great cavity on the side of the canyon, with the green pinyons and cedars above and below, it is easy to under- stand why its discoverers named it "Cliff Palace". The structure is approximately 300 feet long and is estimated to have contained 200 rooms, including 23 kivas. Its cave is an enormous one, arching from 50 to 1 00 feet above it. Across the canyon is Sun Temple. At a fine viewpoint just before descending to Cliff Palace will be observed the plate of the U. S. Geological Survey showing the elevation as 6,789 feet a com- bination quite easy to remember. Three of the outstanding features of Cliff Palace are the Square Tower, the Round Tower and the "Speaker Chief's House", occupying different positions throughout the structure. The first contains some painted signs that are of interest. Another feature is the large number of kivas. It is said that there was a numerical relationship between the population and the number of kivas in a cliff dwelling. I n Cliff Palace no space which could be used for the construction of such a chamber seems to have been overlooked. Usually the kivas and forward rooms are smoothly plastered, but it is interesting to examine the rear walls and see the hand work where the builders were less careful. The prints Page eleven SUN TEMPLE A ruin, evidently intended for religious purposes, excavated in 1915. The walls, of carefully cut red stone, are double. four feet thick, and in places nearly twelve feet high. At the left may be seen the stump of a cedar found growing from the wall; it contains 360 annual rings. of the fingers may be plainly seen, and in some places the actual grain of the skin is still in evidence. Balcony House In Soda Canyon, at a point two and one-half miles from Spruce Tree Camp, is Balcony House. This ruin, while not so large as Cliff Palace and Spruce Tree House, occupies a most spectacular site high up on the side of the canyon and possesses features which are distinctly its own. One of these is the "balcony", at an elevation of about six feet above the floor in one end of the structure, from which point a beautiful view is presented out over the canyon. Balcony House is easily entered by ladders. But the ancient inhabitants used a strange entrance at the southern end. This was through a crevice between the canyon wall and an enormous rock, thirty feet or more in height, which had broken away from the side and had found lodgment sufficient to prevent its falling to the bottom of the canyon far below. Both exterior and interior ends of this crevice were walled up by the Cliff Dwellers, with the ex- ception of a very small rectangular opening at the base, through which it is necessary to crawl prostrate. High above the outside of the entrance is a porthole, and behind this is a platform, from which a prehistoric sharpshooter could do deadly work in protecting the village behind him. Some distance from the outer end of the entrance the ancient trail to the top of the canyon is plainly visible. Sun Temple In 1915 Dr. Fewkes opened a large mound on a promontory across the canyon from Cliff Palace. This mound, which was covered with trees and other growth, had been known to tain a ruin of some sort, but not even Fewkes was prepared for the development t followed. The structure disclosed is in the f of the letter "D", with the flat side toward t south. The walls are of red stone, carefully c They are double, four feet thick, and from five nearly twelve feet high. The front is 1 3 1 feet 1 This building, of a type found nowhere else on Mesa Verde, had evidently been erected accord- ing to a pre-arranged plan. Several theories have been advanced as to its use, but it is now generally accepted that it was built for religious purposes, and this is strengthened by the finding of a stone on which is a fossil palm-leaf, adjoining the southwestern corner of the structure. This fossil had been enclosed with stones on three sides, giving it somewhat the appearance of an altar. It is considered that the prehistoric shippers regarded the shape of the fossi representative of the sun. During the excavation a red cedar tree found growing out of the wall near its hig point. This was cut down and found to cont 360 annual rings. Of course the building been abandoned before the tree sprouted, how long a time had elapsed between abandonment and the sprouting no one can tell. Oak Tree (Willow) House and Painted House These are two very interesting, though smaller, ruins in Fewkes Canyon not far from Sun Temple. The former is sometimes called "Willow House" because of the willow withes in the mortar of one of the walls in which no stones were used, being virtually an instance of prehistoric "reinforcement." Painted House is >f an but the Page twelve a short distance farther up the canyon, near its head, and is distinguished for its painted walls, some most interesting figures of animals being visible in one of the rooms. Square Tower (Peabody) House This ruin, also with characteristics of its own, is in Navajo Canyon, three miles from Spruce Tree Camp. One of its principal features is the square tower, several stories high. Square Tower House has never been cleared of debris, and con- tains one kiva on which the roof is partly in place, distinctly showing the ingenious method of construction. Far View House With the exception of Sun Temple and Far View House, the ruins now visible in Mesa Verde National Park are all in caverns on the sides of the canyons. A few years ago Far View House was one of a number of mounds, called the "Mummy Lake Group" (the "lake" having been a prehistoric reservoir), four and one-half miles north of Spruce Tree Camp. In 1916 Dr. Fewkes excavated this mound and discovered a rect- angular pueblo 1 1 3 feet long by 1 00 feet wide. The building was terraced and at one end was three stories high. The fire places and stones for grinding corn may still be seen in the highest room. Less than a hundred feet from one corner lies the cemetery, from which were taken a number of skeletons with their customary offer- ings of food bowls and other objects. Fifteen other mounds have been counted in Mummy Lake village, and other towns of the same character may be seen from this point. A Prehistoric Watch Tower This is a most interesting structure, largely on account of its individuality. It is round and occupies the top of a conical-shaped rock on the side of Navajo Canyon. There are no dwellings in the immediate vicinity, 1 1 is a question in the minds of some ethnologists whether it was used for watching purposes, as structures of this shape are considered to have some relation to the re- ligion of the early inhabitants. The Tower is about three miles from Spruce Tree Camp and ia reached by a good trail. Spring House This is a very fine, large ruin in Long Canyon, approximately five miles from Spruce Tree Camp. It has never been cleared of debris; when this is done, it will undoubtedly present a striking appearance. A good spring of cold water at the back of the cavern accounts for the name. There is a good trail to Spring House, and it makes a most interesting one-day trip. The Natural Bridge is directly below. The Natural Bridge This is an interesting feature of the Mesa Verde which was located only a few years ago. It is in Long Canyon directly below Spring House. The distance from end to end under the arch is ninety feet, and the height is twenty-five. The Bridge is reached by trail only. Other Ruins There are very many other ruins, of varying sizes, in the Park and adjacent thereto, many of which, because of their being almost inacces- sible, have scarcely been visited in modern times, and some no doubt have not been entered at all since their abandonment centuries ago. A num- ber of these can be seen from the larger ruins described above. A large ruin not yet cleared of debris. When cleared, some interesting discoveries undoubtedly will be is a cold spring between the rear of the structure and the wall of the cavern. There Page thirteen Transportation and Accommodations Auto stages of the Mesa Verde Transportation Com- pany operate daily between the railroad station at Mancos. Colo., and Spruce Tree Camp in Mesa Verde National Park; distance 32 miles; time required three hours. Con- nections are made with trains in each direction. Auto stages leave the railroad station at 2:00 P. M. and the Camp at 8:00 A. M. The round-trip fare from Mancos to Spruce Tree Camp is $10.00, which includes auto service from the Camp to Cliff Palace. Balcony House. Sun Temple and Square Tower House. Spruce Tree Camp (adjacent to Spruce Tree House ruin), is operated by Oddie L. Jeep (postoffice address, Mancos. Colo); rate $4.00 per day. American plan. During the summer season, round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold to Mancos or through to Mesa Verde National Park as destination. Passengers visiting the Park as a side-trip, in connection with journeys to other destinations, will find stop-over privileges available on round-trip or one-way tickets. From many sections trips may be planned to include visits to two or more of the following National Parks in the Rocky Mountain region: Mesa Verde. Glacier. Yellow- atone and Rocky Mountain. Time Required to See the Ruins Leaving Mancos at 2:00 P. M. and arriving Spruce Tree Camp at 5:00 P. M. permits of visiting Spruce Tree House, near at hand, the same evening. Next day Balcony House. Square Tower House. Sun Temple and Cliff Palace may be visited by auto, being distant from two to three miles. Leaving for Mancos at 8:00 A. M. the following day. Far View House may be visited en route. Not less than thirty-six hours should be spent in the Park, and longer time is desirable. Season The season in Mesa Verde National Park extends from May I to October 31. Park Administration Mesa Verde National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Service, Department of the Interior. Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Mancos, Colo. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office. Washington. D. C.. at the prices given. Remit- tances should be made by money order or in cash: Antiquities of the Mesa Verde National Park: Spruce Tree House, by J. W. Fewkes. 58 pages, illustrated. 40 cents. Park- Cliff illustrated Antiquities of the Mesa Verde National Palace, by J. W. Fewkes. 82 pages 45 cents. Excavation and Repair of Sun Temple. Mesa Verde National Park, by J. W. Fewkes. 32 pages, illustrated. 15 cents. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 illustrations; descriptive of nine National Parks. Pamphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition 55 cents. Panoramic view of Mesa Verde National Park; 22 '/ 2 by 19 inches; 25 cents. The following may be obtained from the Director of the United States Geological Survey. Washington. D. C.. at price given: Map of Mesa Verde National Park; 31 by 46 inches; scale. one-half mile to the inch. 20 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service. Washington. D. C.. or by personal application to the superintendent of the park: Circular of General Information regarding Mesa Verde National Park. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and Monuments and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any Consolidated Ticket Office; or apply to the Bureau of Service. National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines. 646 Transportation Build- ing. Chicago. 111.: Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park, Oregon. Glacier National Park, Montana. Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands. Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas. Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado. Mount Rainier National Park, Washington. Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Michi Iowa and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. Montana, Yosemite National Park, California. Zion National Monument, Utah. A GROUP OF RELICS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS The twelve large jars were found recently in a ruin which had never been entered in modern times. They were discovered arranged in order in one room, as though stored for future use. Page fourteen 'Woo '|^V -I>" I '^fc^ feSLs^t J ^""B R A s r *' ^ ^^^JjOCJ^J^i. 0rMd liUad ''SKS.A ^fesvpLjaaLr -*' co y k fj(ia * k. -., o *^1 l 9JM'Jfl* U <'illr" "'Nvtfc "w^*fr "J^-H K . r-; J^K T V*ejJ|:7* c O V Pu .,,,, HW, lM0 .o ^^te% : ^ :rt .L _.-i t - ^gj. *^*ifc^Tf ~ i l /M ' J ^' 7r- ^f :v Y "-"rjr. J 4.T5 ?"'? r ^'f [""" '" : 1Ba.~J~.' p ".,..,, a-S ^r * IKANCAftfJ ' fe o.w.i,i KAHOOLAVWE PACIFIC CIA " AW ' THE HAWAftAN ISLANDS The National Parks at a Glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Lincoln. Neb. .. .. 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Cal . .L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles. Cal. . . .215 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St. South Beaumont. Tex.. Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. Ill 175 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. j Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y. .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sta. Sacramento. Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Tex. 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway Ocean Park. Cal 160 Pier Ave. San Francisco. Cal. Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose. Cal.. I stand San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Peoria. 111. .. Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Shrevepprt. La.. Milam and Market Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Cleveland. Ohic . . Columbus, Ohio. Dayton, Ohio 1 004 Prospect Ave. ... 70 East Gay St. ..I9S. LudlowSt. .nz. aioux ^ity, low Adams St. and Central Ave. Spokane. Wash. Portland. Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo. 318-328 North Broadway East Detroit. Mich ... 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . . L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis, Ind.. I 12-14 English Block Newark. N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St. Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash. .. I 117- 1 9 Pacific Ave. Waco. Tex 6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal. . . . L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. Philadelphia. Pa.. Pittsburgh. Pa Reading. Pa Rochester. N. Y.. Syracuse. N. Y. . . Toledo. Ohio Washington. D. C. Williamsport. P .1539 Chestnut St. . .Arcade Building ....I6N. Fifth St. 20 State St. . .University Block .320 Madison Ave. . 1229 FSt. N. W. .4th and Pine Sts. Asheville. N. C 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Augusta. Ga 811 Broad St. Birmingham, Ala 2010 1st Ave. Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. Chattanooga. Tenn 817 Market St. Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. South Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St. Lexington. Ky Union Station Louisville, Ky. . . .4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery. Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville. Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La St. Charles Hotel Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Chlca g- Page fifteen PRESS OF W. J. HARTMAN CO.. CHICAGO A GLIMPSE OF SPRUCE TREE HOUSE This ruin is a short distance down the canyon from Spruce Tree Camp and is reached by an easy trail through the trees. 1 _ MI RAINIER National Park SHIMOTONT UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION NATIONAL PAR.KL SERIES Page two An Appreciation of Mount Rainier National Park By GILBERT H. GROSVENOR, Editor, National Geographic Magazine Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration AHOMA the Mountain That Was God! Thus the aboriginal Indians christened the sublimely majestic peak which broods over one of earth's most beautiful play- grounds Mount Rainier National Park. All of America's great parks extend to our people an almost irresist- ible invitation, truly irresistible if the individual has in his soul the llove of wide spaces, beautiful vistas, forests, mountains, rocks, streams and flowers; but no other offers to the wayfarer, the traveler and the :seeker of recreation so easily accessible a variety of charms, of creature comforts and of scenic grandeur as this wonderful preserve, with its snow-capped mountain towering nearly three miles above the sea; with its more than a score of glaciers tracing with fingers of ice the wrinkles of centuries upon the granite face of the heights; with its Paradise Valley carpeted with myriad wild flowers of every hue; with its un- limited diversions of camp life, mountain climbing, ice cave explora- tions, skiing and snowshoeing in midsummer, and automobiling mile jpon mile over perfect roads, through giant forests, skirting the brow }f overhanging ledges, and to the trickling waters of the melting glaciers themselves. The glories of mountain-and-valley scenery in the Swiss Alps excel :he beauties of Mount Rainier National Park in only one particular :he fact that they enjoy the advantage of a thousand years of advan- tageous advertising. Some day our people are going to waken to the ealization that in our own America, our Land of the Best, Nature has jiven us scenic charms and natural wonders which surpass those of ;very other land. Mount Rainier National Park is a matchless proof of his statement. I wish no lover of the great outdoors would accept my vord for this; he should verify these superlatives about Mount Rainier National Park by personal observation this summer. I To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of me Interior E who seeks a renewal of spirit in the vast world of out-of-doors, who reads the messages written on Nature's tables of stone, who hears music in the waterfall, who studies perfection as expressed in the dew- sprinkled flower, and who sees, in the pearly whiteness of mountain summits, a symbol of all things pure, may attain his ideals in the mountains of Wash- ington. Up through forests of fir and cedar the foothills rise, wave on wave, like a great green sea. Above this sea towers the giant snow-crowned summit of Rainier. Mo.unt Rainier the Pacific North Coast crowning landmark is the most titanic, extinct volcano in America out- side of Alaska. Rising, snow-mantled, nearly three miles into the air from an evergreen forest base, which slopes to Puget Sound, its beauty and grandeur are supremely impressive. With a mystery and majesty pecul- iarly its own, Rainier holds sway over all its kindred. It became king of the north- ern mountains geologic ages ago, when a mighty upheaval rent the earth asunder. Born of a fiery conflict, the heat of those fires has cooled, and the glistening, snow-crowned summit of today bears little resemblance to the molten mass of ages ago. Pa He four National Park unt Nowhere on the globe can such variety of Nature's masterpieces be en- joyed, and of all pleasurable places along the Pacific, none is more inspiring than Mount Rainier National Park. It is a delightful region, composed of parks, mountains, woods, summer-lands, lakes, waterfalls, tumbling rivers, and living glaciers, made easily accessible by roads, trails and by-paths. The lover of mountain scenery will find never-to-be-forgotten pictures this National Park. Seen from Pu Sound, the impressiveness of Mou Rainier is due to its being situated a dozen miles west of the crest of the Cascade Range, on the forested plain sloping to tidewater. From viewpoi distant fifty to a hundred miles, appears to rise directly from sea level, so insignificant seem the ridges about its base. The white uplift is unspeakably awe-compelling. 1 1 towers alone, distinct and commanding far surpassing in height all peaks within sweep of the eye. Only a few of the world's great moun- tains stand thus detached, and none has a more inspiring setting. Little wonder that the child-like mind of the Indian, unable to understand t mountain, unable to explain its volca origin and its unusual phenomen should deify it! Surely the park-like spaces that hang like a mammoth fl Columbia Crest, the highest point of Mount Rainier, is 14.408 feet above sea level, and is the source of six primary glaciers which descend to the base of the mountain wreath between timber and snow were the fitting tabernacle of a God. And did not a beneficent God direct the streams pouring out from under the glaciers, from which the aborigine obtained most of his food and which afforded him highways through the forests? When storms came and the land was darkened, he saw the great clouds gather around the summit, and the mountain hid its face. After the storm was ended and his beautiful land, with its hundreds of miles of inland seas, was flooded with sunshine, the mountain came out of the clouds, its splendor renewed. Always it was there, watching over him, ever changing, yet always the same. And who is there today to deny that this is holy ground? Surely that which is one of the most perfect of Nature's pro- ductions and which leads the mind to higher, nobler thoughts, is entitled to our reverence. Yet we need not worship from afar, as the Indian did. Beautiful as this mountain is from the distance, those beauties are increased by a closer acquaintance. In the upper forests the wonder flowers appear, becoming dense with the higher altitude, until everywhere, as far as the eye can sweep, there is a sea of blooms of all colors. They reach in billows clear to the snow line. Some follow the snow so closely that they may be found blooming along its edge or even in the smaller snow fields, while others climb the mountain sides far above the snow line and bloom in sheltered niches amid masses of rock and ice. A visit to the summit of this extinct volcano cannot fail to be impressive. There are two craters, the larger 1 ,600 feet in diameter. From the rim between the two, rises an immense mound of snow known as Columbia Crest; this is the mountain's summit. Nature, the supreme landscape archi- tect, has given this glacier-clad landmark an evergreen-forest setting, adorned with vast masses of flowers which form scenic combinations impossible to portray by word or picture. No vocabulary, no camera, no pencil, no brush can do more than suggest what one can see in this Wonderland. Hence you should see it for yourself and, if possible, climb to the top. The sensation of having accomplished the ascent of the mountain has been best described by Maj. E. S. Ingraham, who was one of the first to climb Mount Rainier, and has since made the ascent many times. "After long hours of incessant climbing I stand on the crest. A cold wind pierces my tired body to the mar- -Page fiv row, yet my soul forgets the discomforts of its inhabitation and surges and ex- pands. Around me slumber the snows of a century, yielding not to winter's blast nor summer's heat. One law alone they obey, that causes the apple to fall and the planets to keep their appointed places. Inch by inch they are dragged down the mountain's rock-ribbed side until they form the slow-moving glacier. The stunted trees upon the glacier's bank have grown old, beckoning it on- ward. The flowers of a hundred summers have smiled upon it and bid it welcome. Yet it pauses not nor yet hastens. When the snows upon which I now stand shall have reached the silver stream far below, our children's children may listen to its murmuring." Two-Day Trip to the Park is Mount Rainier National Park connected by automobile stages of the Rainier National Park Company with Ashford, Wash., a railroad station about three hours' ride from Tacoma and four hours from Seattle, Wash., and six miles from the Park entrance. The ride, by auto-stage, from Ashford to Longmire Springs, near the foot of the mountain, at any hour of the day or by moonlight, is a treasured memory. Take it as often as you may, it is always a new delight. The route is across the upper Nisqually Valley, with its miniature fertile farms formerly covered by firs and pines, thence through the primeval forest. At the Park Entrance a stop is made for registration. This formality is soon over, the Park Ranger Quarters are admired, and the auto-stage continues along the dancing Nisqually, crossing a recrossing, affording ever-changing vi of the mountain, until the arrival Longmire Springs in time for lunch At Longmire Springs are located Natio Park Inn and Longmire Hotel (2,700 feet altitude and thirteen miles from Ash- ford). Here is the picturesque, miniature valley where, in 1883, James Longmire located a ranch noted for mineral springs of health-restoring worth, which give their name to the place. After a good meal, there is time for viewing the famous Longmire Springs thirty-five bubbling mineral fountains, destined to rival the most renowned spas of the world. From the inn porch there is an incomparable, near view of the mountain, its shining crest eight miles distant in an air line. From the evergreen-forest frame, it rises 11,700 feet above the level of the e; There are days when it appears no nea than when viewed from tide-water poin and again it seems even farther removed, according to atmospheric conditions. s Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park Visitors generally board the morning train from Seattle or Tacoma, arriving at Longmire Springs for luncheon. Im- mediately thereafter, the auto-stage is taken for Nisqually Glacier, five miles distant by a road which winds in loops and curves along the heavily wooded mountain flank, above the tumbling river which appears and disappears between the trees. Through the forest openings, the ever-changing views compose a mar- velous panorama and at every bend com- ments are made again and again on the fine boulevard and the skill and artistry of its builders. Nisqually Glacier, altitude 4,000 feet, is 1 ,300 feet above Longmire Springs, and the road has an average 4.8 per cent grade, or a rise of 260 feet to the mile, yet so smooth is the going, the climb is not realized. Here is the first view of a glacier, for some 300 yards above the bridge is the moraine-covered nose of Nisqually Glacier, which blocks the valley to a height of 400 feet. From a yawning cave in its front issues the Nis- qually River a torrent at its start. In the long ago the glacier completely filled the valley above and below the bridge, and people still live who recall the time when it came down to the present river crossing. It is the one ice river in the world at the terminus of an auto-boule- vard, reached in five hours from metro- politan centers. There are more than a score of such torrents in the Park, having a similar glacial origin, among which Nisqually River takes foremost rank. A path easy to climb follows up the side of the glacier and crosses the lower portion to the op- posite side. The traveler thus visualizes the great bulk of this ice-flow that starts at Columbia Crest, more than 1 0,000 feet higher and distant six miles in an air line. From this trail are matchless views of Nisqually Valley and the mountains that form the background to the south and west. En route to Paradise, good-bye is said to the Nisqually River, which was first met at Lagrande and which has afforded thirty-five miles of scenic thrills. Above Paradise Valley it will be seen again, where it is a huge ice stream, for it is well to remember that the Nisqually is one of the six primary glaciers which head at the crest where the neve" cas- cades have broken down the crater rim. From here the climb starts in earnest. Rounding the bold promontory over- looking the forested valley to the south, with the whole Tatoosh Range flanked by Eagle Peak in the background an inspiring view the road winds abruptly into the Paradise River watershed. This sharp vantage angle altitude 4,225 feet where a step over the retaining wall would mean a sheer drop of a thousand feet into the turbulent Nis- qually, is Ricksecker Point, named for the engineer who laid out the road from Park Entrance to Paradise Valley. Thus, winding along toward the canyon, Narada Falls suddenly fills the view directly below the road, framed in by overhanging trees. Narada is a Hindoo word, meaning peace. Then comes Inspiration Point the circular bridge around Horseshoe Bend affording a view of the Tatoosh Range. Next the road climbs, in zigzag switchbacks, crossing precipitous glacial boulders overlooking Washington Torrents, a series of short falls in Paradise River, extending about a mile. Other pleasing vistas are passed, and Paradise Valley is reached (5,557 feet altitude) the end of the government boulevard from Ash- ford, where the flowered meadowland meets the glaciers. This ride is two hours of unalloyed rapture. There are no other roads in the Park, except the Storbo Road from the northeastern part of the Park, to Glacier Basin. All other places are reached by trails. One trail entirely encircles the mountain. Among the recent improvements is Paradise Inn, at Paradise Valley, which affords an unobstructed view of the mountain, its white-mantled crown towering 8,700 feet above the wide veranda, distant but five miles as the crew flies. Strange as it may seem, the royal crest looks no nearer than from Longmire Springs. Paradise Valley offers many absorbing attractions, such as the fields of Alpine flowers, three hundred varieties massed in all colors as far as the eye can reach, Paradise Glacier, a safe, snow play-place where winter sports are a summer joy, and the full sweep of Nisqually Glacier. Paradise Glacier is easily accessible. Page seven The trip outlined in the previous par- agraphs covers two days in the Park, spending one night in Paradise Valley. 1 1 is made in comfort and free from haste, and includes the primary features of a visit to Mount Rainier National Park the sunset and sunrise and leisure. Ever since the early days, good trails have led to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, Van Trump Park, and Eagle Peak. Visitors who tarry over a day are most certain to go to Indian Henry's and Van Trump Park. Eagle Peak is the usual first tryout hike for those who plan to climb the mountain, and no better beginning in real mountaineering could be desired. Its altitude is 5,955 feet, or about 3,200 feet higher than Longmire. On the downward way the same places are met with in reverse order, forming new views, as if on another road. The distant mountain panorama is im- pressive. Go up and down this miracle boulevard as often as you may, it is never the same. Always the last passing is the best. The Climb up the Mountain The earlier ascents were over the Gibraltar Trail from Paradise Valley, the route commonly taken. The trip is made many times each season, and with the regular guides no difficulties should be encountered. Climbers leave Paradise in the afternoon, and spend the night at Camp Muir, under Gibraltar, which point must needs be reached be- fore the morning sun starts to melt the snow for the climb can be made only while the snow slopes are still frozen. A welcome place is the shelter hut at Camp Muir. It affords desired safety and comfort, enabling climbers to remain over night or out-stay an unlocked for storm before continuing the upward hike. More people go as far as this vantage station than formerly, owing to the Muir Cabin, which is a stimulus to outdoor enthusiasts to place their names on the honor roll of those who have attained the summit. Now that the west side trail is connected with the north side trail, alert mountaineers, who prefer real camping, ascend from Glacier Basin (elevation 5,900 feet), on The Wedge. From here the trail swings around the the end of the Interglacier, before crossing almost its full length to Camp Curtis. This was the August, 1915, route of The Mountaineers, when fifty-seven persons, of whom twenty-one were women, signed the roster of the record cylinder on the summit, which was deposited in the crater rim under Columbia Crest. The climb is along the border of Emmons Glacier, near where it separates from Winthrop Glacier. The Mountaineei made the ascent from Camp Curtis Columbia Crest in nine hours and foi minutes, each climber arriving in condition. Once on the summit, the point reached where one looks down on the land in all directions the country the vast silence, where there are echoes, and where the winds suddenly and fiercely. Have you ever journeyed thus to these great Temples of Silence? Have you ever reached the top of the very last spire of a mountain summit ai gazed at the panorama of the below, where the rivers look like sib threads on soft blue velvet? If you have, you can remember feeling of awe with which you gazed the vastness below you. Then cai the overwhelming desire to shout, break the surrounding silence; and y< did yell lustily, only to find that in tl altitude the voice reached no fartl than the lips. There was nothing fling back the echo. The sun slides down the western si and the far mountain peaks grow pink, then flame, then glow like jewels in the flashing colors of an opal's heart. The blue shadows begin to steal upwarc pushing away the warm reds and pinl and covering the world with a bh black velvet mantle that grows blacl and more black, until only the hi flung peaks show white and cold it, and the waters of the Sound gleam across the blackness, reflecting still the faint pink of the sky. The descent is begun among the gath- ering shadows that mantle the rocks, and Paradise Inn is reached in due time. The downward journey is not without interest. While accomplished more easily than the ascent, there is plenty to see and to do. P a &e> eight i! -o ' Jlf Page nine Interior of Clubroom. National Park Inn The Origin of This Mountain Playground Puget Sound history begins in May, 1 792, with Captain George Vancouver, of the Royal British Navy, surveying these waters. His journal tells of "a very remarkable, high, round mountain apparently at the southern extremity of the distant range of snowy mountains, which, after my friend Rear Admiral Rainier, I dis- tinguished by the name of Mount Rainier." Probably the first suggestion that the mountain and its surrounding forests be set apart as a National Park was made in 1883, by James Bryce, afterward British Ambassador to Wash- ington. He, with Baron Von Bunsen and others, on their visit to this region for the celebration of the first north Pacific railroad, wrote a memorial to Henry Villard, recommending and urging a congressional enactment to that end. The agi- tation continued, and in 1899 Congress was in- duced to withdraw a tract eighteen miles square (207,360 acres) from the Pacific Coast Forest Reserve as a public park for the benefit of the people. So far as known, the first to enter within the boundaries of Mount Rainier National Park was Dr. William Fraser Tolmie. the botanist of the Hudson Bay Company, who, in August, 1833, climbed Tolmie Peak in quest of "beautiful flowers and superb views." Speaking of the mountain, he notes in his journal, "a few small glaciers were seen on the conical portion," which is believed to be the earliest mention of glaciers in the United States. Naturally, those ice streams appeared small from a distance of ten miles. The next approach was by Lieutenant (after- ward General) A. V. Kautz, in 1857, who had a passion for mountaineering, and how high he climbed never will be known. "We are not likely," he wrote, "to have any competitors in this attempt to explore the summit of Mount Rainier. When the locomotive is heard in this region some day, when American enterprise has established an ice cream saloon at the foot of the glaciers, and sherry cobblers can be had at twenty-five cents half up the mountain, at- tempts to climb that magnificent snow peak will be quite frequent. But many a long will pass before the roads are sufficiently g to induce anyone to do what we did in the su mer of 1857." This was no vain boasting. The third conquest of the mountain was August, 1870, when General Hazard Stev and Philander Beecher Van Trump named Peak Success and were the first to spend a night under the shelter of the crater. James Longmire blazed a trail to his ranch 1884, which later was extended to Paradii The first women in these elysian meadows credited with this apt christening. In amaze the wealth of flowers they exclaimed. "What Paradise!" The medicinal properties of the springs won renown, and the trail was widened to a roadway, the first in the Park. This ranch and some mining claims were located before the National Forest and Park were created. The Longmire road, rough as it was, remained the best approach until 1906, when work was begun on the Government boulevard. This boulevard was constructed under direction of the War De- partment and was opened for travel to Paradise Valley in 1910. but automobiles were not allowed above Nisqually Glacier prior to 1915. ten Most of the trails follow the road surveys. Not till the 1915 season were the different trails connected so that the entire circuit could be made. This betterment was hastened at the solicitation of The Mountaineers an incor- porated organization of hikers who hold the distinction of being the first to encircle the moun- tain by the Government trails. This outing was participated in by one hundred and five men and women, who enjoyed a three weeks' knap- sack trip, traveling well above timber line, crossing glaciers and descending into the parks to camp at night. The summit ascent was achieved by fifty-seven, of whom twenty-one were women. In the story of the Park this record marks an important mile post. Towering Peaks and Massive Glaciers Columbia Crest, 14,408 feet elevation, is near the center of the old crater rim. This summit dome measures from one to more than two miles across. Liberty Cap, 14,112 feet, on the north, Peak Success, 14,150 feet, on the southwest, Gibraltar Rock, 12,679 feet, on the southeast, with a few nameless, rugged remnants, are all that remain of this barrier. Because of the low temperatures prevailing at this high altitude, the drifting snows around the crown never melt, and no ice is formed about the summit. About four thousand feet below the summit, the snows collect in great hollows called cirques, from which emerge the glaciers. In these cirques the snow is hundreds, sometimes thousands of feet deep. Weight freezes it first into coarse granules; then it is known as neve: after it begins to move, pressure turns the neve into solid blue ice. Six primary glaciers head near the summit. These are the Nisqually, the Ingraham branch of the Cowlitz, the Emmons, the Winthrop, the Ta- homa and the Kautz." The Nisqually and the Cowlitz glaciers and rivers recall two of the prominent Indian tribes. The Ingraham, named for Major E. S. Ingraham, and the Emmons, named after Samuel F. Emmons. geologist and mountaineer, are the largest, each measuring six miles in length. The Emmons covers eight square miles of ground and makes a continuous descent from the summit to the base, the crater rim having almost completely broken down under its heavy snow cascades. Winthrop Glacier, named for Theodore Winthrop, the travel writer, is distinguished by its ice cascades and domes. The Carbon, a great ice river on the north side, over five miles long and one and a half miles wide, is the third glacier in point of size, heading in a walled-in amphitheater, set low in the mountain's flank. This amphitheater is technically known as a glacial cirque a horse- shoe-shaped basin hollowed out by the ice from a deep gash in the volcano's side. 1 1 is the largest of all these ice-sculptured cirques. An ice cave usually forms at the point of exit of the Carbon River. Other cirque glaciers are North Mowich and South Mowich named by the Indians for the Mowich, or "deer," carved high on the rock where all may see also Puyallup and South Tahoma. Next come the interglaciers, which spread over the backs of wedges or lava platforms and generally are of considerable size. Occupying the irregular platform of The Wedge behind Little Tahoma the highest outstanding eminence on the flanks of the mountain, 11,117 feet and separating Ingraham from Emmons Glacier, is Fryingpan Glacier, the largest in this class, covering fully three square miles. Below, on the north, lies Summerland, a region of flower-dotted meadows drained by streams that feed Fryingpan Broken ice fields of Nisqually Glacier, which is the source of the rushing Nisqually River and one of the six primary glaciers which start at Columbia Crest Page eleven On the summit of Mount Rainier are three peaks Columbia Crest. Liberty Cap and Peak Success. Thi* * Page twelve S c e , 8 f rom Ricksecker Point. A thousand feet below this point flows the turbulent Nisqually River Page thirteen Creek. Whitman, Paradise, Russell, Edmunds, Pyramid, Van Trump, Stevens, Williwakas, and Ohanapecosh are other notable interglaciers. Not to be overlooked is the original Interglacier, so called by Major Ingraham and distinguished by supplying the generic name for such ice fields, lying on the back of The Wedge behind Steam- boat Prow, which parts Emmons from Winthrop Glacier. Van Trump and Stevens glaciers per- petuate the names of P. B. Van Trump and Hazard Stevens, who made the first successful ascent in 1870. After waving the Stars and Stripes from the top of the south peak they christened that toweringsummit"Peak Success." Finally, there are minor detached ice bodies, each covering a square mile or more of ground, mostly unnamed, and smaller ones which, in other localities, would be considered of consequence. All told, this ice-snow region, in the form of a truncated cone, has a total glacial area of nearly fifty square miles, from fifty to five hundred feet in depth. It is the largest accessible single-peak glacier system. Paradise Glacier A Field for Alpine Sports As Paradise Glacier is the ice field easiest reached, this shortened account of some of its features, taken from "Mount Rainier and Its Glaciers," by F. E. Matthews, of the United States Geological Survey, cannot fail to interest. "The generally smooth and united surface of the Paradise Glacier contributes not a little to its attractiveness as a field for Alpine sports. The long slopes are particularly inviting for the delightful 'glissades' which they afford. Sitting down on the hard snow at the head of such a slope one may indulge in an exhilarating glide of amazing swiftness, landing at last safely on the level snows beneath. "One may roam at will without encountering a single dangerous fissure. This general absence of crevices is accounted for largely by the evenness of the glacier's bed and by its hollow shape, owing to which the snows on all sides press inward and compact the mass in the center. In the early part of summer, it has the appearance of a vast un- broken snow field, blazing immaculate in the sun. But later, as the fresh snows melt away from its surface, grayish patches of old crystalline ice develop in places. Day by day these patches expand until, by the end of August, most of the lower ice field has been stripped of its brilliant mantle. Its countenance, once bright and serene, now assumes a grim expression and becomes criss-crossed by a thousand seams, like the visage of an aged man. "Over this roughened surface trickle countless tiny rills which, uniting, form swift rivulets and torrents, indeed veritable river systems on a miniature scale, that testify with eloquence to the rapidity with which the sun consumes the snow. "Strangely capricious in course are these streamlets, for while in the main gravitating with the glacier's slope, they are ever likely to be caught and deflected by the numerous seams in the ice. But, as the lowering sun withdraws its heat, the melting gradually comes to a halt, and the little streams cease to flow. The soft babbling and gurgling and the often exquisitely melodious tinkle of dripping water in hidden glacial wells are hushed, and the silent frost proceeds to choke up passage and channels, so that next day's waters have to seek new avenues." Nature's Luxuriant Flower Garden Any account of Mount Rainier National Pa would miss its loveliest feature without more th a passing word of the wild flowers massed benches and slopes, often reaching high up al the edges of the glaciers, springing to life as t ice melts, wherever there is any soil. Paradise Valley, Van Trump Park, Indi Henry's Hunting Ground, St. Andrews Par Summerland, and Spray Park in midsummer carpeted in marvelous blooms. Let John Muir, the celebrated naturalist, describe them: "Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circ and nearly two miles wide, so closely plan and so luxurious that it seems as if Nature, gla to make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, was economizing the precious ground and trying to see how many of her dar- lings she can get together in one mountai wreath daisies, anemones, columbine, eryth niums, larkspurs, and others, among which wade waist-deep the bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest sub-Alpine garden I have ever found, perfect flower elysium." s a :uit i:3 = Building Mount Rainier The life history of the mountain has been varied one. Like all volcanoes it has built up it cone with the materials ejected by its o\ eruptions cinders, bombs and flows of liqi lava that have solidified into layers of basaltic rock. At Nisqually Glacier these volcai rocks are seen to overlie the granite foundatk Once a symmetrical cone and still quite youi as mountain history goes, it bears on its flai deep scars of never-ending conflict between forces of Nature. For centuries the grindii glaciers have been working to level the immense mass of lava and ash piled up in recent geological time. They have accomplished only a small of their task. Professor Edwin J. Saunders, of the Chair Geology, University of Washington, tells "The building of the mountain probably tended over many thousands of years. Numer eruptions gradually built up around the crater immense cone composed of many cubic miles lava. Explosive eruptions gave rise to huj volumes of ash, lapilli, bombs, pumice, and the porous lavas one sees scattered for miles around the crater. Quiet flows of lava radiating from the crater served to bind together the loose materials by bands and layers of solid lava rock. One can almost imagine the rock just cooled from the molten state, the slaggy. scoriaceous surface representing the foaming surface of the lava streams. Different types, as if from different sources, are found about the slopes, and various colors, due to difference in Nature and weathering, break the otherwise monotonous appearance of the lava surface. The exact limits of these flows have not been carefully worked out, but the Page fourteen I .a Page fifteen PEAK Succe /$J5OO FEET ORIG/HAL. HE:/ GMT or CONE. CREST ELEVATION I4408FEET EL.CVA TipN8OOOFt INDIAN Cross section to natural scale from Indian Henry's Hunting Ground through Success Cleaver, Columbia Crest and the cleaver between Winthrop Glacier and Carbon Glacier to Moraine Park. The dotted line indicates the original height before the explosion or eruptions ending in the decapitation which shaped Mount Rainier as it appears to day. diameter of the cone at its base is about twenty miles. The inter-bedded lavas and loose ash materials are well shown in the eroded walls of The Wedge, Cathedral Rocks, Willis Wall, Gibraltar, or any of the various remnants about the surface of the glaciers. "The angle at which these strata appear in the different exposures, indicates a cone at one time several thousand feet higher that the present summit, and much more symmetrical. This is shown very nicely in a cross section of the mountain through the Success Cleaver, and the cleaver below Willis Wall. "After the cone was built and the crater probably plugged up by cool, solid lava, it looks as if a violent eruption had blown 2,000 to 3,000 feet off the top, and left an immense crater, or platform, about three miles in diameter. Rem- nants of the old crater and slopes are seen in Peak Success, Liberty Cap, and Gibraltar. "Later eruptions then built on this platform two small craters, the first about 1,000 feet in diameter, the rim of which has been partially broken down, the most recent about 1 ,500 feet in diameter, and still perfect. The rim of the latter shows the snow which now almost fills it. Steam and gas are issuing from crevices in the floor and about the walls of this recent crater. The heat is sufficient to melt large caverns in the snow cap, thus furnishing a welcome protectu from the strong cold winds for belated moui taineers who stay overnight at the summit. Miles of Mountain Trails, Through Natural Parks and Upland Meadows In recent years the trails have been extei and new trails opened each season. The trai system within the Park has now a length ex- ceeding 1 50 miles. The mountain is encircled by main trail, with side trails branching off to plac of chief moment. The Park Superintendent reports: "By making camp each night at certaii designated points in the natural parks and uj land meadows, one can travel on foot by tl shortest route between camps, keeping abo> timber line, and obtain magnificent views of th< mountain and surrounding country from al angles, affording one of the most interestir scenic trips in all the world. The swing aroui the grand circle can be made in seven days averaging twenty miles a day. A month coul( well be set apart for this never-to-be-forgott< happiness." Camping is in high favor among outdoor er thusiasts and each year more of them plan vacations with this end in view. Each seas by the building of new trails and lengthenii the old, more marvels are made accessible. On the Indian Henry Trail one of the favorite trails which forms the 150 miles of the Park trail system Pago sixteen KM? 'A V., & ra **'" <* ****% * Vv>' -j ' * i ^-- . w*< 1 s * *>.*> Page leventeen ill Dining Room, Paradise Inn Paradise Inn Of rustic construction appropriate to the envi- ronment, equipped with every modern conven- ience, heated and lighted by electricity from its own plant, this Paradise Inn admirably fills all wants. For the many who prefer to sleep in the open, there are tents of approved and convenient type, electrically lighted and heated and adequate- ly furnished. A cordial welcome permeates the homelike lounging room and the spacious dining room, where good meals, well served, attract the hungry whose appetites have been sharpened by the mountain air. Paradise Camp Near the Inn, to the west, is the new Paradise Camp, for the accommodation of those who like a closer approach to actual camping conditions than is. found in the luxurious hotel rooms and bungalow tents. Commodious canvas wall tents serve as sleeping quarters, and meals may be had at the lunch pavilion. Those who think their camping experience is not complete unless they do their own cooking, may purchase groceries at the pavilion and practice the culinary art over large, open-air fires. All needed accessories may be rented at moderate charges. Accommodations in the Park Most of the transportation, hotel, camp and other concessions are under the control of the Rainier National Park Company. Transportation and hotel rates, and all prices for those under such control, are regulated by the Department of the Interior, which has charge of all the national parks, and are not higher than prevail Page eighteen 3t or in xeeded. here is il side- at summer resorts generally. All hotels operated on the American plan, which includes room and meals by the day. The rates are $4.25 to $5.00 a day for tent rooms, and $5.00 to $8.00 for hotel rooms, the higher prices being for rooms with bath. Guides, horses, and outfits are furnished by the Rainier National Park Company to those desiring to take short or long trail outings. From Longmire Springs and Paradise Valley are numerous enticing day outings, and some that require but a few hours, made either on foot or in saddle. In many instances no guide is ne for the trails and by-paths are safe and thei no danger of going astray. Favorite trail trips out from Longmire Springs and Paradise Valley are tabulated on pages 19 and 20, with distances and points of interest. Saddle horses may be had at Longmire Springs or Paradise Valley at $3 . 50 a day. A competent guide and horse is furnished without charge for parties of five or more. There are free public camping grounds at Van Trump Park, Longmire Springs and Paradise Valley which are growing in favor more each year. To describe what is seen along the way on the scheduled little journeys within Mount Rainier National Park, would easily fill pages. Even then the story would not be half told. Nowhere on the globe is there such a variety of views and such masses of wild flowers. All are of one mind with Edward Frank Allen, who exclaimed: "Read as much about it as you will, see it pictured a thousand times, and believe all the tales you hear of it, and on going there you will find that it has been underrated." Season Points of Interest Reached The 1919 season of Mount Rainier National from Paradise Valley Park extends from June 15th to September 15th at Longmire Springs, and from July 1st to Sep- tember 15th at Paradise Valley. Nisqually Glacier.. \Y4. W ^argest glacier on south side Mount Rainier. Van Trump Glacier 2HNW Small glacier west of Nisqually How to Reach the Park Glacier. Kautz Glacier 3 W Adjacent to and 1.000 feet Mount Rainier National Park is connected below Van Trump Park. by automobile stages of the Rainier National KautzPeak 5HN Good view. Park Company with Ashford, Wash., a railroad Kautz Box Canyon 3HNW Upper end of canyon near station fifty-five miles from Tacoma, ninety- Kautz Glacier. three miles from Seattle and six miles from the Bench Lake I^SE On lower bench overlooking Stevens Canyon. Pzirlc entrance. Pinnacle Peak. . . . 25* SE SharpPeakonTatoosh Range. During summer season, round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at practically all stations in the United States to Tacoma and Stevens Peak Unicorn Peak 3HSE 4JiSE AteastendofTatoosh Range. hlighest peak on Tatoosh Range. Seattle as destinations. Passengers holding Ice Caves IH NE At lower end Paradise Glacier; through excursion tickets to other destinations largest ice caves in Park. will find stop-over privileges available. From Paradise Glacier. . . IH NE Source of Paradise River. many stations in the Northwest, excursion Stevens Glacier. . . \*A NE East lobe of Paradise Glacier. tickets are sold through via Ashford to points within Mount Rainier National Park. Stevens Ice Cascades 2NE /Crevassed slope on Stevens \ Glacier. Fares from Tacoma and Seattle to points Stevens Water within the Park and return, via railroad to Cascades 2 1 A NE At foot of Stevens Glacier. Ashford, thence via automobile stages of the Stevens Canyon.. . 2M NE Below Stevens Glacier. One Rainier National Park Company, are as follows: mile long. 1.200 feet deep. Fairy Falls 2% NE At head of Stevens Canyon; Round-Trip from 300 feet high. Tacoma Seattle Cowlitz Glacier. . . 3NE Largest glacier on southeast To Longmire Springs $5.55 $ 7.35 side of mountain. To Nisqually Glacier 6.55 8.35 Cowlitz Peak 3H NE View of surrounding glaciers. To Paradise Valley 8.55 10.35 Cathedral Rocks. . 3H NE Lofty spires on divide north of Cowlitz Glacier On the Van Trump Trail, from which many excellent views are obtained, and which leads to Van Trump Park, a Hower- covered camping spot Page- nineteen Points of Interest Reached from Longmire Springs Ramparts \Yl W Ridge north of NisquallyRiver. Paradise Valley.... MHN Park at base of Mount Rain ier; excellent campin Tahoma Glacier . . . 71^ Clear ice glacier from which ground; elevation 5.00C flows Tahoma Fork of reached by auto. Nisqually River. Carter Falls 31^ NE On Paradise River. Christine Falls .... 4}^ N On auto road to Paradise Park. Comet Falls Marie Falls 6N 5 N On Van Trump trail. On road to Paradise Park. Narada Falls (Trail |4|f NE Road Olx: Nip Principal falls on Paradis River, with sheer drop c 150 feet; elevation 4.572 Glacier 5 N Near bridge crossing Nisqually River on Government road. (7/2 INC. [Road I3NE High fall of Paradise Rive Ricksecker Point. 6* N Lofty point of road to Para- Trail (dii NE | at head of Paradise Vallej I dise Park; elevation 4.221. Paradise River and Canyon 9N 600 feet below auto road. Pyramid Peak 8 N Highest peak in India Henry's Hunting Grounc Road easy to ascend; elevatio 6.940. Ruby Falls 9% NE Washington Torrents Trail 5 NE (Road 10 NE Trail Upper cascades of Paradise River a short distance below Paradise Valley. Mirror Lake Eagle Peak TYz N 3H E Reflects Mount Rainier. At west end of Tatoosh Range good trail leads to ope parks short distance below Second Crossing 5MNE elevation 5.961. Paradise River. Kautz River 2% N Fast flowing river from Kaut Washington r^i i# Torrents 10 N View of Paradise River; Third Crossing Paradise River. Ruby Falls Washington Torrents in foreground. View of river and Ruby Falls. Mount Ararat 6% N High hill in Indian Henry Hunting Ground; petrifie wood found here. Inspiration Point. . Horseshoe Bend. . . 10* N 9M N First view of Paradise Valley. High trestle overlooking Nar- ada Falls. Iron Mountain. . . . Crystal Mountain 6M N Twin mountains in India Henry's Hunting Grounc crystal ledges on CrysU Mountain. Paradise Inn 14 N Hotel and camp located on Theosophy Ridge. Paradise Valley; Elevation 5.558. _ ' Reflection Lakes.. . I^SW On bench north of Pinnae] Peak. Tatoosh Range. ==^ = =^= U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents. Govern- ment Printing office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. Mount Rainier and Its Glaciers, by F. E. Matthes. 48 pages. 25 illustrations. 15 cents. Features of the Flora of Mount Rainier National Park, by J. B. Flett. 48 pages. 40 illustrations. 25 cents. Forests of Mount Rainier National Park, by G. F. Allen. 32 pages. 27 illustrations. 20 cents. Panoramic View of Mount Rainier National Park. 19 x 20 inches. 25 cents. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National Parks. Pamphlet edition. 35 cents; book edition. 55 cents. The following may be obtained from the director of the United States Geological Survey, Washington. D. C.. at price given: Map of Mount Rainier National Park. 22 x 23 inches. 10 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C., or by personal application to the office of the superin- tendent at the entrance to the Park: Circular of general information regarding Mount Rair National Park. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and Natioi Monuments and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtain< free on application to any Consolidated Tick* Office; or apply to the Bureau of Service Nations Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Buildii Chicago, 111.: Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park. Oregon. Glacier National Park. Montana. Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona. Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands. Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas. Mount Rainier National Park. Washington. Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota. Upper Micf Iowa and Illinois. Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado. Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona. Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado. Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California. Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho. Yosemite National Park. California. /.ion National Monument. Utah. Page twenty P a & e twenty-one TO\ENUMCLA W R\R. STA. TO FAIRFAX /?. K. STA. , ARADi ARADISE CAMP RADISE VALLEY Ohanapecos Hot Spring SEATTLE ftR.STAS. MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK WASHINGTON Scale NATION Asbford PARK Page twenty-two < f -*W -*. >; 4*"-e /*.., '*W, L * "* "Bg [**< t S.;, ^; A D / ^0^_^ L"-""o ~^I~~( '' "--.._ ..jK' fe^^T^L I^PsC^fe *'-** o !. ** ,.,\ *ir^K^'^V^ 0^"jl'-r I ttl j <" r T- *""*"-: M pSSr^lr" fe j rffe :~$ : w v o /WINB/.O.>\ >l Wl riii* $^ y--.. *"2di*, o^; 1 ^ ol _i::?5%^fer-- l_J Hutinc." ""'I... _\ * * ' "^( I LLI NOI Sj ;t.Wph V*; p,,, sum.o ~^sr.^V---^! i: ' l * t V p< ' iii ' n * M K _A N S A S I^SEteS.Jr ^)J^ rh. r . .&i*i"* C s *"Geir s B* THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS % Tort WortH *-ta o The National Parks at a glance United States Rai Iroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Austin. Tex 215 Congress Ave. Beaumont. Tex. .Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. Ill 179 W. Jackson St. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St Denver. Colo 60 1 1 7th St Lincoln. Neb 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W 2d St. Long Beach, Cal.. . .L. A. &S. L. Station Los Angeles, Cal. ... 221 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis, Minn. .202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. ..13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal ... Pacific Elec. Depot Oklahoma City, Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha, Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. Ill . . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo. . . 318-328 N. Broadway East Detroit. Mich ... 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville, Ind. . . L. & N. R. R. Bldg Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis, Ind..l 12-14 English Block Montreal, Que 238 St. James St. Newark. N. J .Clinton and Beaver Sts New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. South Knoxville, Tenn 600 Gay St. St. Paul, Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts Sacramento. Cal 801 K St' Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Texas 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal 50 Post St. San Jose. Cal., 1st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La. .Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City Iowa 5 10 4th St Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth, Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex .... Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J. ..1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md . . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg Boston, Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati. Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio. . ..1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus, Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton, Ohio 19 S Ludlow St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash .... 1 1 1 7- 1 9 Pacific Ave. Waco. Texas. . . .6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal. . . .L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. New York. N. Y II4W. 42d St. Philadelphia. Pa. . ..1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh, Pa Arcade Building Reading, Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Rochester, N. Y 20 State St. Syracuse, N. Y 355 S. Warren St. Toledo, Ohio 320 Madison Ave. Washington. D. C. . . 1229 F St. N. W. Williamsport. Pa. ... 4th and Pine Sts. Wilmington Del 905 Market St Asheville, N. C 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Augusta. Ga 81 1 Broad St. Birmingham, Ala 2010 1st Ave. Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Charlotte, N. C 22 S. Tryon St. Chattanooga. Tenn 817 Market St. Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. Paducah Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Louisville, Ky. . . .4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg, Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville, Tenn . . I ndependen t Life Bldg . New Orleans, La. . . .St. Charles Hotel Norfolk. Va Monticello Hotel Sheffield Ala Sheffield Hotel Tamoa. Fla Hillaboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C. .236 N. Main St. For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Chicago POOLE BROS.. CHICAGO Season 1919 Page twenty-three Narad* Fall*, in the Paradise River Canyon beautiful fall* framed by overhanging ti PETRIFIED FOREST National Monument I X. O \ \ UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION Mil m nwS N AT I O N A K. 'SERIES Page two Thousands of acres and millions of tons An Appreciation of The Petrified Forest of Arizona By CHAS. F. LUMMIS Author of "Some Strange Corners of Our Country," "The Land of Poco Tiempo," "Pueblo Indian Folk Stories," etc. Written hspccially for the United States Railroad Administration "Full fathom five thy father lies; Of his bones are coral made; Those are pearls that were his eyes; Nothing of him that doth fade, But doth suffer a sea-change Into something rich and strange." The Tempest. SEQUOIA in California is the oldest creature alive. It had measured a millennium when Christ walked the earth. But "that's no time at all." Ten thousand ages before the cedars bloomed on Lebanon, away out here in the Wonderland of our own Southwest, the "Wind, that grand old harper, smote His thunder-harp of pines" identical pines that are with us to this day. Not, indeed, as they were in that incalculable Past for they have Put on Immortality, and are this side of Resurrection. They lived their green millenniums, and were laid to bed under the coverlet of a continent, to sleep ten times as long as Parasite Man has crawled upon this globe. And since, for as many aeons, the tireless moths of Erosion have been gnaw- ing away their league-thick blankets, till at last they are bared again to the Arizona sun the most imperishable of earthly things, and of fadeless beauty; a "Forest" in Glorified Stone, its very bark and "rings" immortalized in agate. Not as that classic Munchausen of the Grand Canyon, Cap'n John Hance, loved to tell. "A forest of petrified trees, with petrified birds flying through petrified air, singing petrified songs"- but prostrate and unmurmuring trunks upon a stark desert bed. How great was once this grove of giant conifers and willow-kind, no man will ever know nor how much is still buried, where ancient lava flows have pinned its sedimentary blankets down. Some 400,000 acres of it are uncovered in extent and beauty the noblest petrified forest in the world. Only the diamond is harder than its "wood;" only the opal so rainbowed. Some cosmic cataclysm mowed it down, orderly and at a scythe-swing. Not cyclone nor freshet Noah's flood turned against it could not have felled it so fair. It is no tangle of windfall or flotsam. Swath by swath it fell, its lofty tops generally to the south. Perhaps a far vaster earthquake than later split the Mogollon plateau to the beginnings of the Grand Canyon was the agent. Page three Anyhow, before it could decay, the prostrate forest was submerged beneath some gentle sea, whose boiling mineral springs and slow- building sediments "pickled" it forever, under the inconceivable pressure of two vertical miles of strata even as we pygmies today creosote piles and railroad ties under the inverse thrust of a vacuum. As agate to pine for hardness, as aeons to weeks for duration, as gems to mud for beauty so was God's "pickling" to ours. As unhurried of the Ages, this submerged half-continent was then exalted from three miles below its miracle-working sea to three miles above it so evenly that its stratum blankets were hardly rumpled; and the patient Weather began its task. Grain by slow grain, the sandstones resolved to sand again, and found their way to be laid down under later seas to form some future continent. Upon these one-time tropics had crept the Age of Ice; and crept back toward the Pole: and had been forgotten. As dwindling snow lets down a twig imperceptibly, so when their stone coverlet "9000 ft. thick on the average" (Drake), had melted to Erosion, the great fossil logs sank with their sinking shales and clays. They are still a mile above the sea. In their subsidence they have broken their backbones squarely, almost into vertebrae ; few sections are 20 feet long though some trees were once 240 feet tall (and still so measure upon the ground) and nine feet diameter. A 150-foot log, the "petrified bridge," spans a ravine between rock piers. The glittering "chips," like fossil butterflies, pave hundreds of square miles, and were "the first money in America." Ages before Columbus, these chips of agate and chalcedony were prized by the First Americans to make the best arrowheads and "knives" that primitive man ever fashioned. Prehistoric Indian pueblos, whose ruins we explore today on surviving cliffs 500 feet above, controlled this aboriginal "hardware shop," and bartered its bright spalls a thousand miles either way, for the guacamayo plumes of Yucatan to the bison hides of the Plains, and the shells of the California Gulf. > In our own day we have sometimes sawed these logs (with the only harder substance, diamond-dust) into 36-inch table-tops, at $2500 each ; but it is too costly to polish commercially. One company tried grinding it for emery. Hundreds of these "gem" logs have been dynamited to get the crystals in hollow cores. I have a piece not three inches across; with a quartz heart, and on one side half-inch crystals of amethyst, and on the other their mates in smoky topaz. But in 1906 the Petrified Forest was made a National Monument and saved from the "civilized savage." The railroad traversed it in 1882; and it is now easy of access. North is the Black Forest, some of whose great stumps still stand erect, their futile roots bedded in the wasting clays. The Southwest Museum in Los Angeles has the unique terminal bud of one of those giant Sagillarias. South are the Rainbow, the Crystal, the Blue and other "forests" of the Forest second only to the Grand Canyon as a chief wonder of the Southwestern Wonderland. Page four To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Petrified Forest National Monument |O subject is of deeper in- terest, to educator and casual tourist alike, than the history of the earth on which we live, and the wonders thereof. Particularly that portion which we call America. The earth itself our own land how did it first awake? In the descriptions that follow you will find a brief account of the earth-making process as revealed to us by a study of the Petrified Forest of Arizona in the light of modern scientific research. In this wonderful region you will find beneath turquoise skies pillars and bridges of agate and chalcedony and every road- way strewn with gems that might adorn the palaces of Golconda or the temples of Ormus. Long ere the pithecanthropus ex- changed his arboreal dwelling for a cave, or Noah and his family fled from a bank- rupt world even ere Adam was forests were growing in Arizona. In the course of ages some cosmic catastrophe struck them down and over them swept an in- land sea, whose sediments subsequently buried them a mile or more deep. Dur- ing these long geologic periods, the subtle alchemy of Nature perfected its trans- mutation. Riven and fractured, the ancient logs were again brought upward, and after years of erosion they were once more "living" under the brilliant Arizona skies not as they once lived, but in a glowing permanent form. They are there today, the most brilliant aggregation of jewels on the globe. There are agates, chalcedony, jasper, onyx and opals not by the handful, but by the ton. And these beautiful mosaics lie in the open air, scattered over thousands of acres, on the great Southwestern Plateau, with its colorful deserts, its lofty extinct volcanoes whose iridescent hues are re- born and die each day under the magic of the sunlight, with its vast lava fields, its fascinating ruins of a prehistoric people and its equally interesting pueblos of their descendants. The building of the railroad first brought into prominence this wonderful natural phenomena. Many scientists visited the region and made reports to the authorities in Washington, from time Page five A natural bridge of agatized wood to time. Even as late as 1906, a new forest, the North Sigillaria, was dis- covered by John Muir, the noted Cali- fornia naturalist. The following letter was written in 1899 by the acting Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute, in response to an inquiry: "The region in Apache County, Ari- zona, known as the 'Petrified Forest,' 'Chalcedony Park,' and 'Lithodendron (stone trees) Valley,' is of great interest because of the abundance of its beautiful petrified coniferous trees, as well as for its scenic features. The trees lie scattered about in great profusion, but none stand erect in their original place of growth, as do many in the Yellowstone National Park. The National Museum possesses three splendid trunks, collected there at the request of General Sherman." A good account of this locality by Mr. Geo. F. Kunz, is in part as follows: "Among the great American wonders is the silicified forest known as Chal- cedony Park, (now Petrified Forest Na- tional Monument), in Apache County, Page six Arizona. There is every evidence that the trees grew beside some inland sea. After falling they became water-logged, and during decomposition the cell struc- ture of the wood was entirely replaced by silica from sandstone in the walls surrounding this great sea." "Over the entire area, trees lie scattered in all conceivable positions and in frag- ments of all sizes, the broken sections sometimes resembling a pile of cart wheels. A phenomenon perhaps un- paralleled, and the most remarkable fea- ture of the park, is a natural bridge, formed by a tree of agatized wood spanning a canyon 60 feet in width. In addition to this span, fully fifty feet of the tree rests on one side making a visible length of over 100 feet." Dr. Walter Hough, of the Smithsonian Institute, writes as follows: "In the celebrated Petrified Forest, Arizona, there are ruins of several Indian Villages. These villages are small, in some cases have merely a few houses, but what gives them peculiar interest is that they are built of logs of beautiful fossil wood. The prehistoric dwellers of the land selected cylinders of uniform size, which were seemingly de- termined by the carrying strength of a man (or several men). It is probable that prehistoric builders never chose more beautiful stones for their habita- tions, than the trunks of these trees which flourished ages before man ap- peared on earth." "This wood agate also furnished ma- terial for stone hammers, arrowheads and knives, which are often found in ruins hundreds of miles from the forest. The 'wood agate,' or 'wood opal' is now cut and polished into floor tiling, mantels, clock cases, table tops, etc. The silver testimonial to the French sculptor Bar- tholdi, made by Tiffany & Co., had for its base a section of this wood agate." As a result of the scientific investiga- tions and reports, the growing interest of the public, and to end the depredations of vandals, activity in Congress led at length to the passage of the Act of June 8, 1906, entitled "An Act for the Preser- vation of American Antiquities," and to President Roosevelt's proclamation of December 8, 1906, which, under the name of The Petrified Forest National Monu- ment, placed the forest under the pro- tection of the Government for the perpetual enjoyment of the people. Area, 25,625 acres. But let us turn to the detailed descrip- tion of one who has made a careful, scientific study of the region. The following is from the report of Prof. Lester F. Ward, Paleontologist, U. S. Geological Survey: "These Petrified Forests may be prop- erly classed among the natural wonders of America, and every reasonable effort should be made not only to preserve them from destructive influences but also to make their existence and true character known to the people." "Some of the most important consider- ations that may be urged in favor of the importance of this region compared with other petrified forests rest upon its geological relations. It is much more ancient than those of the Yellowstone National Park, of certain parts of Wyo- -;wvM^->: P\ . '.J**X** '"' ^^* - f Jf r* -*qgr ^ . The plain is cut into innumerable ridges, buttes and mesas Page seven I eijht ming, and of the Calistoga deposits in California. The difference in their an- tiquity is many millions of years. There is no other petrified forest in which the wood assumes so many varied colors, and it is these that present the chief attrac- tion for the general public. The state of mineralization in which much of this wood exists almost places them among the gems of precious stones. Not only are chalcedony, opals, and agates found among them, but many approach the condition of jasper and onyx. The degree of hardness attained by them is such that they are said to make an excellent quality of emery." "This region consists of the ruins of a former plain having an altitude above sea level of 5,700 feet. This plain has undergone extensive erosion to a maxi- mum depth of nearly 700 feet, and is cut into innumerable ridges, buttes, and small mesas, with valleys, gorges, and gulches between. The strata consist of alternating beds of clays, sandstone shales, and massive sandstones. The clays are purple, white and blue, the purple predominating, the white and blue forming bands of different thickness between the others, giving to the cliffs a lively and pleasing effect. The sand- stones are chiefly of a reddish brown color. The mesas are formed by the resistance of the massive sandstone layers of which there are several at different horizons to erosive agencies, and vary in size from mere capstones of small buttes to tables several miles in extent, stretching to the east and to the north- west." "The petrified logs are countless at all horizons and lie in the greatest profusion on the knolls, buttes, and spurs, and in the ravines and gulches, while the ground seems to be everywhere studded with gems, consisting of broken fragments of all shapes and sizes and exhibiting all the colors of the rainbow. When we remember that this special area is several square miles in extent some idea can be formed of the enormous quantity of this material that it contains." "The petrified logs do not occur in the same abundance throughout. They are A tree in the Second Forest Page nine massed or collected together in groups or heaps at certain points, and may be altogether absent at others. From their great abundance in the above described section, it must be inferred that the stratum which holds them was especially rich, and the trunks must have lain in heaps upon one another." "Perhaps the most prominent of all the scenic features of the region is the well known Natural Bridge, consisting of a great petrified trunk of jasper and agate, lying across a canyon 60 feet wide and 20 feet deep, and forming a foot- bridge over which anyone may easily pass. The Natural Bridge, therefore, possesses the added interest of being in place, which can be said of very few of the other petrified logs of this region." A Description of the Forests' Divisions The First Forest, noted for its bright colors, is distant about six miles from Adamana (alti- tude 5,277 feet). It is easily reached in an hour and a half. The journey may be made in a leisurely fashion, starting late in the morning and returning at dusk, with an hour enroute for inspection of the Hieroglyphic Rocks and Aztec Ruins, and plenty of time to see the Second Forest, too. The chief object of interest is the Natural Log Bridge, which is mentioned else- where. The Eagle's Nest, Snow Lady and Dewey's Cannon are in this locality. The Second Forest is two and one-half miles due south of the first one, the trip requiring thirty minutes each way. It contains about two thousand acres. The trees are mostly intact, large and many of them highly colored. The Twin Sisters are an interesting sight here. The Third Forest covers a greater area than the others. It lies thirteen miles southwest of Adamana and eighteen miles southeast of Hoi- brook. There are several hundred whole trees, some of them more than two hundred feet long. The colors are very striking, comprising every tint of the rainbow and therefore the local name of Rainbow Forest is very appropriate. The Blue Forest (smallest of the five), located seven miles east of Adamana, is one of the two districts discovered by John Muir. It is noted for the blue tints of its trees. The North Sigillaria Forest, a new "find", is nine miles north from Adamana, and contains many finely preserved specimens of the carbon- iferous period some of the stumps still standing where they grew. It is located on the bottom and sides of a shallow canyon, with buttes and mesas of different colored clays and rocks. One fallen monarch is 147 feet long. A wide view of the Painted Desert may be had here and on the Petrified tree in a stratum of sandstone P a 6 e ten ^^WA' 1 \\ ' f P Page eleven Scene in Third Forest Page twelve Huge tree in North Forest Overlooking North Forest and The Painted Desert PETRIFIED FOREST NATIONAL MONUMENT ARIZONA Scale " a " a '. ..^' :v -" ;; -::-,. ...^ >::: =:v Roads .Trails _ ,^_ Boundary Railroad TO HOLBRGC j A ._,... / ,; 2 . tr*\ ' FOREST/-' FORE< Collecting Groui CoprrUht by Rand MoNally 4 Co. 7310 Page thirteen way out an Indian ruin is passed. The round trip to either of the two last named Forests requires about four hours time, though if one is in a hurry, all the Forests except the Third may be visited by auto in a day's time. Only the First, Second and Third Forests are included in the Petrified Forest National Monu- ment. Cost of Trips and Hotel Accommodations Except the small hotel, railway station and store, there are few buildings at Adamana. Mr. Wm. Nelson has charge of the hotel and livery accommodations. The hotel has sanitary plumbing, with hot and cold water. Board and lodging may be had at $3.00 per day American plan; thirty-five guests can be accommodated; in summer, tents also are provided for guests. The round- trip fare to the First and Second Forests and Natural Bridge is $5.00 for one person, $3.00 per capita for two persons, and $2.50 per capita for three or more. To the Third, Blue or North Sigillaria Forests and Painted Desert the fare is same as to the First and Second Forests. One of the most interesting trips from Adam- ana is northeast to Wide Ruins (Kin-Tiel), a Navajo trading post, built among the ruins of an Aztec village. On the way you pass Pinta, Inscription Rock, a bit of the Painted Desert and Tanner Springs, a big cattle and sheep ranch on the Navajo reservation. It is about three hours and a half by auto; $30.00 round trip for four persons or less. If desired, this trip may be continued farther north through the Navajo country. Notice in advance to Mr. Wm. Nelson at Adamana, Arizona, owner of livery, will insure proper handling of parties. Mr. Nelson also equips camping parties for the Hopi and Navajo Indian Reservations, and for a few days' trip into the Painted Desert. Holbrook, the county seat town, has satis- factory hotel accommodations, with prices about the same as at Adamana. The Petrified Forest may be visited any day in the year, except when high waters make the streams temporarily impassable. Stop-Over Arrangements Stop-overs are allowed at Adamana, not to exceed ten days, on all one-way tickets, also on round-trip tickets within their limits. Stop-overs are also allowed on Pullman tickets. To obtain stop-overs on one-way tickets, notify train conductor and deposit tickets with agent immediately after arrival; on round-trip tickets notify train conductor. Park Administration Petrified Forest National Monument is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washing- ton, D. C. The Monument Custodian is located at Adamana, Arizona. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map of National Parks and National Monu- ments. Shows location of all the national parks and monuments, and railroad routes these reservations. ned The following publication may be obtai from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at price given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. By Robert itions. The National Parks Portfolio. Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 illustratic Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. Contains nine sections, each descriptive of national park. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtai free on application to any consolidated tic! office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, Nati< Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureai Western Lines, 646 Transportation Build) Chicago, 111. Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park, Oregon Glacier National Park, Montana Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado Mount Rainier National Park, Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin, Minnesota, Upj Michigan, Iowa and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Pai California Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, tana. Idaho Yosemite National Park, California Zion National Monument, Utah Page fourteen S v&oj o. ':* ". -.*, ./ t SL *" 4rc Mn e N "** >o V"**;. /*M.o, "^88 N A D A | J\ -L** ."^. \ v ~-v ^$3S* W&xriu * >^ T a ?bfe? 0*Cj , - ^L I PARK> HflHAU The National Parks at a Glan United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Lincoln. Neb 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Cal . . L. A. c S. L. Station Los Angeles. Cal. . . .215 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St. South Beaumont, Tex.. Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2N. Main St. Chicago. Ill 175 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs. Colo. 1 19 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Ten: Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Annapolis. Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y. .Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus. Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton. Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. Asheville. N. C 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Augusta. Ga 811 Broad St. Birmingham. Ala 2010 1st Ave. Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. Chattanooga. Tenn 817 Market St. Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. No, Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. III. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland. Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis, Mo. 318-328 North Broadway East Detroit. Mich ... 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind ... L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. I 12-14 English Block Newark, N. J., Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32dSt. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. South Knoxville. Tenn 600 Gay St. Lexington, Ky Union Station Louisville. Ky. . . .4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile, Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville, Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. .St. Charles Hotel St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento. Cal ........... 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Tex. 3 1 5-1 7 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego, Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco, Cal. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal.. I at and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash . . ...... .714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La., Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City, Iowa ......... 510 4th St. Spokane, Wash. Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma, Wash. ..1117-19 Pacific Ave. Waco. Tex ...... 6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal. . . .L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg, Man ...... 226 Portage Ave. Philadelphia. Pa. ... 1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh, Pa Arcade Building Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. Syracuse. N. Y 355 So. Warren St. Toledo, Ohio 320 Madison Ave. Washington. D. C. . . 1229 F St. N. W. Williamsport. Pa 4th and Pine Sts. Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. Paducah. Ky 430 Broadway Pensacola, Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa, Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. New Orleans. La folk. Va Monticello Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago. SEASON. 1919 PRESS OF W. J. HARTMAN CO.. CHICAGO Page fifteen 'And in the fullness of the ages the immortal Forest came back to the sunlight, where once its myriad leaves danced and breathed a mortal air." dniininiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiHiiniiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHiiHiiiiiiHiiHimiiiiHmiiiHiiiumiimi, ROCKY MOUNTAIN National Park D O *, UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION IBM N AT I O N A L Copyright by Wiawatt The Village of Estes Park nettles in a quiet little valley, surrounded by mountain* Pa A two An Appreciation of Rocky Mountain National Park By ENDS A. MILLS. Author of "Wild Life on the Rockies." "The Rocky Mountain Wonderland." etc. Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration Rocky Mountain National Park is a marvelous grouping of gentle- ness and grandeur; an eloquent, wordless hymn, sung in silent, poetic pictures; a wilderness mountain world of groves and grass plots, crags and canyons, rounded lakes with shadow-matted shores that rest in peace within the purple forest. There are wild flowers of every color, and many a silken meadow edged with ferns. Brokenness and beauty, terrace upon terrace, a magnificent hanging wild garden. Over these terraces waters rush and pour. From ice-sculptured, snow-piled peaks, young and eager streams leap in white cascades between crowding cliffs and pines. Through this wildness winds the trail, with its secrets of the centuries, where adventures come and go and where the magic camp fire blossoms in the night. In these primeval scenes the grizzly bear gives to the wilderness its master spell; the mountain ram poses on the cliff; the laughing, varied voice of the coyote echoes when the afterglow falls; the home-loving beaver builds his willow-fringed hut; the birds sing; the cheerful chipmunk frolics and never grows up; and here the world stays young. The Rocky Mountain National Park holds adventure for every visitor. In it the world is new and wild, and on the imagination it produces the explorer's stirring joys. Its mile-high, unfenced scenes give freedom splendid landscapes of the ideal world. Here for everyone are health and hope, efficiency and joy. Not a wild animal in this or any national park is ferocious. Strong is the friendliness of nature. With it everyone has a place in the sun. Her privileges are for each and all. Nature is universal, and here the stranger makes intimate acquaintances. Prejudice ceases. Each is at his best. In this greatest wilderness meeting place the East and the West understand and become friends. Travel unites people. Into this Park through the years will pour a continuous procession of peoples to mingle and form an international conference of friends. Here flags of nations and national boundary lines are forgotten. Kinship is the spirit of Nature. Page t h f 9 9 To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Rocky Mountain National Park MAGINE a giant hand with the base of the palm as Estes Park Village and the ^^ fingers extending westward toward the Divide, the fingers roughly representing the moun- tain spurs, moraines and peaks given off from the main range, and the spaces be- tween, the intermediate canyons, with their many streams, which converge at the village to form the Big Thompson River; imagine another but smaller hand to the south reaching into the park from the east towards Long's Peak and the peaks to the south, the streams from this watershed forming the St. Vrain River; then imagine the finger tips merging into the Continental Divide, each as a living glacier and there you will have the Park's topography. Then clothe the canyons in garments of evergreen forest and the glades with the quaking aspen, floor the rocky gorges with sky-blue lakes and hang their walls with tumbling waterfalls, carpet all the open spaces from above timber line down to the broad spreading meadows where the rivers merrily sing their way with a huge army *f brilliant P *t four LA Oil hued wild flowers; then people t Arcadia plentifully with the wild li whose natural home it is the finne furred and feathered the wily trou the beaver and the mountain sheep (t mention only a few) ; and lastly spread over all a turquoise blue sky with a dry, crystal atmosphere, shot through with brilliant sunshine, and you will have an idea of what Rocky Mountain National Park really is. The attendance figures are increasi each year far beyond the most enthusi tic prophesies. Even though it is on of our newest national parks, it annually entertains more visitors than any of the other national parks. When it is considered that the vaca- tionist is whisked from Chicago or St. Louis to Denver, then set at the foot of one of the mightiest mountains of the Rockies' main range in about a day and a half of actual travel, it is realized how much of a public benefit was conferred when Congress in 1915 set aside this, the easternmost of our western national playgrounds. Not only is this national park the composite of all that is fairest, m - Auto highway through the Big Thompson Canyon. The approaches to the Park axe of untiring interest to the visitor, and the roads a constant delight to the motorist P a 6 f iv 9 awe-inspiring and climatically ideal in the Rocky Mountain region, but it is not far from the geographical center of the country, and is the most easily reached by a large number of people of all our national parks. This region of endless wonder and fascination is only seventy miles from Denver by auto all the way, or by rail to several different gateways, thence auto for about twenty-five or forty miles not a long, tiring, monotonous ride through an uninteresting country, but instead it is a motor trip that ranks among the finest in Colorado. Follow- ing the rushing waters of the Big Thomp- son or the St. Vrain, over hard-surfaced roads, through deep canyons, wonderful in their coloring, the big, roomy, power- ful automobiles take the grade with such ease that one hardly realizes that he is climbing rapidly. Enraptured by the intensely interesting scenes, the traveler is all too suddenly aware of his journey's end, when the magnificent panorama of Estes Park Village and Rocky Mountain National Park unexpectedly bursts into view. Soon he is eating dinner at one of the large hotels, or at a small ranch hotel, or in a modestly appointed cot- tage, as choice may dictate. A feature of the Park is its adaptability; one may rest and recreate amid most entrancing surroundings, with a range of accommo- dations from the elaborate furnishings and service of the large city hostelry to the simplicity of the secluded log cabin or the outpost tent cottage. In short, life may be lived here in a manner to suit the taste and the purse of the individual. He may rough it or enjoy the con- veniences and luxuries of the city. The tired business man who just wants to "loaf" amid incomparable grandeur; the active, outdoor young American; the geologist, who is studying moraines and glaciers, and the botanist, all will find life enjoyable here. Another noteworthy feature is that special outfitting is unnecessary; no unusual preparation need precede the journey to the Park. The Park itself provides the entertainment. Any sup- plies considered essential can be secured at Estes Park Village, or at any one of the several Park gateway cities. Rocky Mountain National Park ex- tends approximately twenty-five miles north and south, and fifteen miles east and west, embracing about 400 square miles of territory. From the northwest corner to the middle of its southern boundary the snow-capped giants forming the Conti- nental Divide rear their grim, rocky crests in an irregular line which forms the backbone of this Park and is its commanding feature, ever present, ever changing, and ever awe-inspiring. Here are fifty-one peaks with summits more than 10,000 feet high, also unnumbered canyons, about 200 lakes, many un- named, waterfalls, glaciers, native forests and wild flowers. Exceptionally rugged and out-of-the-way places appeal espe- cially to the explorer. There is probably no mountain range more majestic than the main range of the Rockies as seen from almost any part of the Park, and one of the most striking features is the accessibility of these mountain tops. One may mount a horse after early breakfast in the val- ley, ride up Flattop to enjoy one of the great views of the world, and be back for late luncheon; or cross the Continental Divide from the hotels of one side to t hotels of the other side of the Park, tween early breakfast and late dinner. From early dawn, with its delicate tints of rose and amethyst, to later afternoon, with its golden sunshine and lengthening purple shadows, the range presents an ever-changing panoram On a peak, perhaps, settles momentaril a gray snow-cloud; in yonder canyo breaks a brief-lived shower, sunshot wit silvery rain as it quickly clears awa while over all, the fleece flecked sa phire sky and dazzling sunlight hoi sway. At midday, all Nature rests a in its brighter light the range seems cower and grow small, only to reasse itself in full power and majesty as da ends with a sunset of such splendor only the Rockies may boast. It is in its nearer and more intima aspects, however, that the exquisit beauties of the Park reveal themselves. In the lower levels are widespread undu- lating meadows, dotted with evergreens and interspersed with the hills anc ridges which thrust themselves forwa in all directions from the main range the west, and from the lesser range the east, which completes its encircli P ft 4 SIT Chasm Gorge is one of the Park's wonder spots Long's Peak in the distance protection. Thus diversified, the land- scape becomes a scenic kaleidoscope, no matter how short a distance one may wander. This constitutes not the least of the Park's many charms. Unless the visitor deliberately chooses to do otherwise, he will find his foot- steps leading unconsciously to the heights, and as he climbs and gets his first wonderful views of the surrounding country his desire to scale the more lofty crests grows in proportion as he ascends, until finally he becomes obsessed with a desire to climb that noble mountain of the rampart range, Long's Peak, from whose summit the whole world seems to lie at one's feet. But he who is mountain- wise will not make such an attainment an end in itself, or he will have missed entirely the many pleasures which lie by the way on every hand. Here a bab- bling stream with a bed of wild flowers hidden among the trees upon its bank; or along its smoother stretches an in- dustrious beaver colony. There a grove of quivering aspen. On one hand a splashing waterfall, seeming to burst from the cool shadows of the mountain side to drop forty or fifty feet to the pool below; on the other hand, an open forest of ancient cedars, or perhaps one of those exquisitely blue, forest-circled mountain lakes, carrying upon its bosom, even in midsummer, the ice which here has its permanent home. And below, the silvery, trout-filled streams wind their tortuous course, while rising from the rocky fastnesses above, may now and then be glimpsed the snowy peaks. And these are not imaginary pictures, but real scenes which may be found in the uplands almost anywhere through- out the Park. An Invigorating Climate The climate of Rocky Mountain National Park needs no extensive de- scription. Due to the altitude, which varies from 7,500 to 14,255 feet, the air is light, very dry, and has a wonderfully stimulating effect, especially upon those accustomed to the lower levels. The sunshine is genial, warm, bright and almost constant during the summer months. Very rarely is there a rainy "spell, "or, in fact, a single day during which the sun does not show itself for awhile, the occasional afternoon showers being of short duration. The sunshine may be hot at midday, but always there is a cool spot in the shade. And though one may freely perspire when indulging in vigorous play or work in the sun, yet it is without discomfort, P - g e seven P a tf eight Picnicking on the thoro* of Lk Nanita because of the instant evaporation of moisture, due to the dryness of the atmosphere. The nights are cool, often even cold; blankets always are welcome and sound sleep is the rule. The deep breathing, which one culti- vates naturally in this rarefied atmos- phere, sends the blood coursing through the body with new life and energy, bringing rosy cheeks and bright eyes and a new interest in life. One may have come intent on idleness, but, with that splendid feeling of well being and pure joy in living which the first few days bring, comes a longing for action, and soon one is in the full swing of some out- door recreation. It is indeed quite true that the Park climate is so beneficial, both physically and mentally, that this alone offers sufficient inducement for spending a vacation in this region. Recreation Amid Inspiring and Healthful Surroundings What to do may be briefly summed up: Motoring, horseback riding, walking, mountain climbing, fishing and camera shooting for the actively inclined; and for all, the enjoyment of the many wonderful scenes with their changing lights and shadows and the health- giving mountain air. Tennis, golf, cro- quet, etc., are attractions at some of the resorts. Horseback riding, hiking and mountain climbing, however, are the favorite pastimes because of the splendid roads and trails which lead in every direction over the rolling meadows, through the canyons, along the sunlit streams even to the apparently inac- cessible heights. Automobile roads gridiron the lower levels and reach the hotel resorts. This is not remarkable, as the natural sur- faces are smooth; suitable road material is everywhere, and good roads are easily made. Traveling leisurely, so as to fully enjoy the rare pleasures by the way, the sightseer still may traverse all the motor roads of the Park in a few days, although a favorite plan is to make one- day picnic trips, going as far as possible in a given direction by motor and spend- ing the remainder of the day in climbing and exploring the upper wilds which are reached only by trail. Even though a different trip is planned for every day, weeks may be profitably spent in this way. Automobiles may be rented at reasonable rates in the village. Horseback riding is pre-eminently the most popular sport m the Park, due to the number and variety of rides that are possible. For, with good trails leading in every direction, and the almost count- less attractions, the visitor may ride day after day and week after week and yet never take the same ride or visit the same destinations twice. Almost everybody rides the young, the old, the middle-aged; and all derive lasting benefits. Good saddle horses may be obtained at the various liveries and at all the outlying resorts. They are well broken and reliable, and accustomed even to the most difficult mountain trails. Most of the streams in the Park and many of the lakes are well supplied with native and rainbow trout, and the fisher- man will here find ample reward for his skill and patience, especially in the Big Thompson River and its tributaries. A local fish hatchery annually supplies the streams of the Park with millions of trout, thus insuring the upkeep of the supply. There are golf courses. Worthy of particular mention is the 18-hole course of the Estes Park Country Club, adja- cent to the village. Club house and course are available to the public. The Stanley hotel has a course laid out in the meadowlands skirting the Big Thompson River. The winters in the Park are not severe; generally the snowfall is not heavy on the lower levels. Back in the mountains where the snowfall is heavy, but within easy reach of Estes Village, conditions are ideal for winter sports. Two ski courses and two toboggan slides have been completed, and several of the resorts arrange accommodations for a limited number of winter parties. The Park in Detail Although having only a small per- manent population, Estes Park Village is well supplied with stores, schools, churches, garages, liveries, etc., and is always prepared to meet the needs of the summer visitor. The village is picturesquely situated among a cluster of hills rising about 1 ,200 feet on all sides, at the confluence of the Big Thompson and Fall Rivers. Patfe nine Lake Mills is one of the beautiful lakes in the wild Loch Vale section of the Park In Estes Park Village are the Hupp, Josephine and Estes Park hotels, the Brown Tea Pot Inn and Prospect Inn, while the Lewiston overlooks the village from a rocky eminence just to the north. Outside, to the east, and adjacent to its golf course and the Big Thompson meadow, is the largest hotel, the Stanley, while a short distance to the west on the Fall River is Elkhorn Lodge. To the south, near the Big Thompson River and within plain view of the village, is the Crags. A short distance below and to the west, on the banks of the river, is the Big Thompson hotel. Five miles northeast from the village of Estes is the fascinating region sur- rounding Lester hotel. One of the best of the longer horseback trips from this point is to Hallett Glacier. Another is that to Lost and Husted Lakes at the foot of the Mummy Range, a spur extending northeast of the Continental Divide with numerous peaks rising over 13,000 feet. The remainder of Rocky Mountain National Park falls into a series of topo- graphical divisions or districts, begin- ning at the north with the picturesque diversity of Horseshoe Park, and ending with that wild confusion of precipices and lakes known as the Wild Basin, south of Long's Peak and east of the Continental Divide. Horseshoe Park (seven miles up tl Fall River road) and its immedial surroundings form a rare combinatic of flower-carpeted meadows, forest-cl mountains, streams and waterfalls, are Horseshoe Inn and Fall River Lodge Horseshoe Park is the point of departui for two of the most interesting trips- to Lawn and Crystal Lakes and Hallet Glacier in the Mummy Range; also the main trail across the Continental Divide to the Grand River. On the shore of Lawn Lake is the Lawn Lake Lodge. Long's Peak Inn, the Columbines and Hewes-Kirkwood Inn, nine miles south of Estes Park Village, are starting points for the trail to the summit of Long's Peak. Horses may be used as far as Timberline Cabin at the edge of Boulder Field, from where the most difficult part of the ascent, extending about two miles, is made on foot. After crossing the huge boulders of Boulder Field, comes the climb through the Keyhole, a curious opening which separates the east and west slopes, and through which a glorious view of Glacier Gorge and the country beyond is obtained. Long's Peak summit is reached at an elevation of 1 4,255 feet. This is the giant peak of the entire Rocky Mountain National Park, and from it is spread out in all directions a jumbled confusion of peaks, Page ten gorges, moraines, lakes, distant valleys and snow-capped ranges, forming a series of views of unsurpassed sublimity. Long's Peak Inn is the home of Enos A. Mills, the well known author, natur- alist, and interpreter of the outdoors, with special reference to its flowers, forests, rocks, bird and animal life. Mr. Mills first established himself at the base of Long's Peak in 1884. On the road from Long's Peak resorts to the village is Lily Lake hotel, at- tractively situated on Lily Lake. One- half mile from Lily Lake, on the main road to the village, is Baldpate Inn. Nearer the village is Rockdale hotel, near Mary Lake. To the south of Long's Peak is the Wild Basin country, noted for its many lakes and waterfalls, wild gorges and rocky peaks, most of the latter more than 13,000 feet high. This district may be best reached from the Long's Peak resorts or from Copeland Lodge on Copeland Lake or from National Park Hotel in Allen's Park Village. Moraine Park, from five to six miles southwest of Estes Park Village, is the open valley of the Big Thompson, with an extensive glacial moraine to the south. Here are located Stead's, Mo- raine Lodge and the Brinwood. Fern Lodge, on Fern Lake, and Forest Inn at the Pool may well be made the headquarters for such trips as lead into the more remote parts of this heart of the wilderness. ^ By many, the Loch Vale and Glacier Gorge sections, just northwest of Long's Peak and known as the Wild Gardens, are considered the surpassing scenic section of Rocky Mountain National Park. Sprague's hotel in Bartholf Park is the nearest resort to this region. A day's trip from here is west to Loch Vale Lake and across to Andrew's Glacier and up to the Continental Divide. Bierstadt, Bear and Dream Lakes are all charming spots, most easily reached from Sprague's or Moraine Park. On the shore of Bear Lake is Bear Lake Lodge. Y. M. C. A. Camp and School An important feature of the Park is the Annual Conference and Summer School of the Young Men's Christian Association. Established almost ten years ago, it has grown to be a very important institution, with an invest- ment of over $100,000 in grounds, per- manent buildings and equipment, in- cluding gymnasium, assembly hall, din- ing room, class rooms, tennis courts, baseball diamond and athletic field. The conference and school bring a large number of visitors to the park and many speakers of national reputation. Hallett's Glacier an amphitheatre of snow and ice Page eleven ROCKY MOUNTAIN affords an opportunity of outdoor recreation motoring, boating, h: golf and tennis vie w twelve UC, COLORADO of a wide diversity roundings. Fishing, mountain climbing, or popularity. P & e thirteen f^afesAp^ '>./^VC i r- "^?r^ Main Roads Trails . Other Trails Page f o u r t Classic pines and waters. Grand Lake western entrance to the Park Beautiful Grand Lake Region Grand Lake is the western gateway to the Rocky Mountain National Park. It is reached by rail from Denver to Granby, thence by stage. Grand Lake is situated in the valley of the North Fork of Grand River, and is the largest lakein the vicinity of the Park, and here each year is held a regatta for a Lipton cup. It is the center of a growing cottage and hotel population, and is destined to become a place of much importance upon the completion of the Fall River motor road, which will connect the east and west sides of the Park. An excellent road encircles the lake, and from it trails penetrate the wilder- ness to various points and over the Continental Divide. ^ The two trails from the summit of Flattop Mountain to Grand Lake and that from Fall River Canyon to the North Fork of the Grand River at Camp Wheeler ("Squeaky" Bob's Resort) offer trips of unusual interest. Living Glaciers Among the most widely known glaciers that still remain in the Park are Hallett, Tyndall, Andrews and Sprague's. One of the remarkable features of Rocky Mountain National Park is the legibility of the record left by the glaciers during the ages when America was in the making. The evidences of glacial action in all its variety are apparent to even the most casual eye. In fact, there is scarcely any part of the eastern side of the park where some great moraine is not in evidence. One enor- mous moraine, built up by ancient parallel glaciers and rising with sloping sides nearly a thousand feet above the surrounding valley, is so prominent that a region of the Park is named for it. The Park itself is a primer of glacial geology, whose lessons are so simple, so plain to the eye, that they immediately disclose the key to one of Nature's chief scenic secrets. Animals, Birds and Wild Flowers Rocky Mountain National Park is a natural home for bear, deer, Rocky Mountain sheep, beaver and other wild animals, as well as numerous species of birds. Under government regulations the wild animal life in the Park is fully protected. The bighorn or Rocky Mountain sheep, with their curious circling horns, are seen in increasing numbers every year, and frequently they may be ap- proached sufficiently near to photo- P a g e fifteen Camping at Bear Lake graph. To see them jumping from crag to crag, graceful and agile, or dropping off a sheer precipice, is a sight long to be remembered. They congre- gate during the summer months on Specimen Mountain, where they often may be seen from the trail. The beaver are increasing rapidly, and their industrious colonies may be found along the quieter reaches of the streams, bordered by groves of white trunked quaking aspen, whose tender bark con- stitutes the beavers' principal food. The beaver themselves are seldom seen, except as reward for the greatest patience, but well engineered dams and snug dome-shaped homes are the sure evidence of their presence. There are more than 1 50 elk in the Park, and they are frequently seen. Deer are increasing and are occasion- ally seen. Bear and mountain lions rarely are visible. There are many woodchucks and squirrels; it is easy to make friends of the chipmunks. There are more than a hundred species of birds to be seen in the Park. Among them are the robin, bluebird, wren, hermit thrush, humming bird, white- crowned sparrow and that marvelous singer, the solitaire. The ouzel, Rocky Mountain jays, chickadee, the wood- pecker and the magpie are all-year dwellers. The ptarmigan and the rosy finch are prominent residents in the heights above timber line. Among the wild flowers of the Park are more than a thousand species, including the fringed blue and several other gentians; the numerous colum- bines, blooming at the lower leve in June and on the heights in Septe ber; mertensia, phlox, primroses, M posa lilies, daisies and larkspurs; Indi paint brush, ranging from dark crim through all the shades to a white; aste marigolds and many others. Many flowers grow above timber line in fact, almost everywhere and the Alpi buttercup pushes its blooms up throu the melting snowdrifts. The tree growths consist principal of Douglas spruce, lodge pole and yell pine and aspen, while up near tim line are found the Englemann spru limber pine, cedar, Arctic willow a black birch. Timber Line, with Its Dwarfed ai Twisted Trees Timber line occurs at about 1 1 feet altitude. Here the low win! temperatures and the fierce icy win< make it impossible for trees to grow t'< and occasionally a great spruce lies flat on the ground like a vine; presently trees give place to low birches, which in their turn are succeeded by small piney growths, and finally come the straggling grasses, hardy mosses and tiny Alpine flowers. Grass grows in sheltered spots, even on the highest peaks, which is fortunate for the mountain sheep seeking these high, open places to escape their special enemies, the mountain lions. The sights above timber line never lose their charm, however often seen. Ice Cold Lakes and Flowered Gorges A distinctive feature of the Park is its great number of precipice-walled can- yons, lying between the very feet of the loftiest mountains. Their beauty is romantic. Like all the other spectacles of this favored region, they are readily accessible from the valley by trail, either afoot or on horseback. Almost invariably lakes are found in these gorges, rock embedded, and ice cold streams wander from lake to lake, watering wild flower gardens. By Auto or Trail to Cloudland and Back Automobile roads radiate in almost every direction from the village of Estes Park. The most popular trips are the Fall River Drive, the High Line Drive and Long's Peak Inn Drive. Trails to less accessible points are for use of the foot traveler and the horseback rider. Among the popular trails are those to Flattop Mountain, Fall River, Trail Ridge. Iceberg Lake, Poudre Lakes and Milner Pass, Lawn Lake. Wild Gardens, Fern and Odessa Lakes, Bear Lake, romantic Loch Vale, Glacier Gorge, to Long's Peak and to Wild Basin and across the range to Grand Lake. Camps and Camping Grounds Several permanent hotel camps are located within the borders of the Park, and camping grounds have been provided for those who choose to travel with their own camping outfit. Personally Conducted Saddle and Pack Trips off the Beaten Paths A most enjoyable way of seeing the Park is to join an all-expense horseback camping party, conducted by experienced guides, authorized by the Government to personally escort such excursions. For the names and addresses of the licensees and other information concerning these "Rough- ing-it-in-Comfort" trips, apply to National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C., or Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments; or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111. Information within the Park Information concerning trail trips, camping grounds, etc., may be obtained from the Super- intendent of Rocky Mountain National Park, whose office is conveniently situated in the village of Estes Park. When to Visit the Park The season is May 1 to November 1 , but the Park is accessible throughout the year, each season having its particular attractions. Sum- Horseback riding in the mountains is always an exhilarating sport P a 6 e eevonteen The Fall River Road Drive, part of the automobile highway across the Continental Divide (now under construe- tion) one of the most popular auto road* in the Park Page eighteen mer is of course recommended to the vacationist, but he who waits until autumn has tinted the foliage and perhaps added a light covering of fresh snow enjoys views of beauty reserved especially for the late comer. The many winter sports equally appeal to those interested. How to Reach the Park The Rocky Mountain Parks Transportation Company maintains an excellent motor service via three routes into EstesPark Village: The Big Thompson Canyon route, the St. Vrain River route and the Allen's Park route. From Loveland and Ft. Collins the traveler approaches via the Big Thompson Canyon route. The road winds quietly across the plains, through the foothills and enters suddenly into the rocky canyon which towers hundreds of feet above either side of the Big Thompson River. For miles it climbs through the gor- geous canyon, twisting and turning as it crosses and recrosses and follows the rock-hewn banks of this turbulent stream, until, rounding the last turn, it leaves the canyon as suddenly as it entered, and the smiling expanse of Estes Park bursts upon the view, with the panorama of the snow crowned Continental Divide as an en- circling background. Two miles across the wide-spreading flower dotted meadow, and the village of Estes Park is reached. From Longmont and Lyons the route follows the St. Vrain River. After leaving its course along the shaded St. Vrain River the road leads toward the foothills through a rugged country. Backward and forth across sparkling stream and sunlit canyon, tortuously winding and twisting, the way is ever upward, mile after mile until finally the car pauses at the crest of Park Hill (elevation 8,500 feet), from which a spectacular scene of peaks and valley greets the eye. A short ride downward over a level stretch, than comes the welcome hospitality of Estes Park Village. The Allen's Pa-k Auto Road parallels the Continental Divide for twenty-eight miles. This is a "cross-country" route on top of the mountains, with a wide expanse of views of the range from Long's Peak on the north to James' Peak on the south. Each of the several approaches to the Park has its own peculiar scenic charms, and the traveler is wise who enters via one gateway and departs by another. Denver, Ft. Collins, Longmont, Loveland, Lyons and Ward are the eastern railroad gate- ways to the Park. Travelers have the choice of using auto all the way from Denver or rail to any of the other gate- ways named, thence auto to Estes Park Village. Arrangements may be made to go in one way and out another. The west side of the Park may be reached from Denver by rail to Granby; from Granby stages run to Grand Lake. Summer Excursion Fares During the summer season round-trip excur- sion tickets at reduced fares are sold to Rocky Mountain National Park as a destination. Pas- sengers visiting the Park as a side-trip in con- nection with a journey to other destinations will find stopover privileges available on round-trip and one-way tickets. The fare from Denver via automobile all the way in both directions, or from Denver via rail- road to Lyons, Fort Collins, Longmont, Love- land or Ward, thence automobile to Estes Park, is $10.00, round trip. The round trip fare via automobile from Lyons, Fort Collins, Long- mont, Loveland or Ward to Estes Park is $8.00. From many sections trips may be planned to include visits to two or more of the following national parks in the Rocky Mountain region: Rocky Mountain, Mesa Verde, Yellowstone, Glacier. Auto Trips within the Park The Rocky Mountain Parks Transportation Company conducts the following sight-seeing trips from Estes Park Village into the National Park. The charges for the principal trips are: Fall River Road drive, approximately 26 miles $3.50 Fall River Road and High drive, approxi- mately 30 miles 4.00 Long's Peak Inn or High drive, 20 miles. . . 2.50 Special arrangements may be made with the transportation company for touring cars to any point in the Park. There are 125 miles of secnic auto highways within the Park. Miscellaneous CLOTHING. One should bring along warm clothing, sweaters, light overcoats or wraps. stout low-heeled shoes for climbing, and "slick- ers" as a protection from sudden showers. HORSES may be engaged at the liveries in the village, and at almost all the resorts; prices range from $3.00 per day to $12.50 or $15.00 per week. Pack horses, $2.50 per day. MAIL. Postoffices are located at Estes Park, Long's Peak, Moraine Park, Drake, Allen's Park and Grand Lake. TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH. Long distance telephone service at all resorts; telegraph service at Estes Park Village. AUTOMOBILES. May be rented at the princi- pal garages in the village, and cars are also obtainable at some of the resorts. GUIDES. One should not attempt the ascent of any of the higher peaks, a visit to the glaciers or a long trip over unfamiliar trails without a guide. Competent guides may be obtained at from $5.00 to $10.00 a day. OUTFITS. Fishing tackle, golf clubs, tennis rackets, cameras and khaki riding outfits may be purchased in Estes Park Village. BAGGAGE. The Rocky Mountain Parks Transportation Company carries hand baggage, not to exceed 20 pounds per passenger, free; other baggage, $1.25 per hundred pounds. Hand baggage carried at owner's risk only. Baggage may be checked direct to Estes Park, Colo., but charge of $1.25 per hundred pounds will be collected at Estes Park for auto trans- portation of baggage from the railroad terminals. Passengers using autos from Denver will be charged $1 .75 per hundred pounds. The following books pertaining to Rocky Mountain National Park attractions will be found very interesting: "The National Parks." 1919 Yard $2.50 "The Grizzly" Mills fOO "The Story of Estes Park" Mill. 1.00 Page n e t e e n A view of Taylor Glacier at upper end of Loch Vale Page twenty 'Beaver World" Mill. $1.75 'Spell of the Rockies" Mills 1.75 'Rocky Mountain Wonderland" Mills 1.75 'Handbook of Birds of the Western U. S." Bailey 3.00 'Rocky Mountain Flowers" Clements 3.00 'Our National Parks" Muir 1 .75 'Saddle and Camp in the Rockies" Wallace . ... 1.75 'Old Indian Trails" Schaffer 2.00 'Highways and Byways of the Rocky Mountains" Johnson 1.50 'Guide to the National Parks of America" Allen 1.00 'History of the Birds of Colorado" Schlater 5.00 'The Mammals of Colorado" Warren 2.00 'Your National Parks" Mills 2.50 'Out Where the West Begins" Chapman 1.25 U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. "The Geologic Story of Rocky Mountain National Park," by Willis T. Lee; 89 pages. 45 plates. 30 cents. "Mountaineering in the Rocky Mountain National Park." by Roger W. Toll; 48 illustrations. 2 maps. "Panoramic View of Reeky Mountain National Park"; 14 by 17^2 inches. 25 cents. "National Parks Portfolio." by Robert Sterling Yard; 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine national parks. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. The following may be obtained from the Direc- tor of the United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C., at price given. Map of Long's Peak Quadrangle, which includes the greater portions of the Rocky Mountain National Park; \3 l / 2 by 17^ inches. 10 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service. Washington, D. C.. or by personal application at the office of the Superintendent of the Park. Circular of General Information regarding Rocky Mountain National Park. Glimpses of Our National Parks; 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments; or Travel Bureau - Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building. Chicago, Illinois: Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park. Oregon. Glacier National Park, Montana. Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona. Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands. ' Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas. Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado. Mount Rainier National Park, Washington. Northern Lakes Wisconsin, Minnesota, Upper Michi- gan, Iowa and Illinois. Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California. Yellowstone National Park. Wyoming. Montana. Idaho. Yosemite National Park, California. Zion National Monument, Utah. It is not unusual to find flowers and snow fields in close proximity P t'w en t y - o n Rocky Mountain sheep are often seen by Park visitors The Following are the Principal Hotels, with Capacity, Manager and Rates for Room and Board. NOTE The rates given are published for the information of the public, but th United States Railr Administration assumes no responsibility for their correctness. NAME MANAGER Postoffice Address (Colorado) Capacity Rates Per Week Baldpate Inn Address Manager A. E Brown Estes Park Estes Park 20 40 $28.00 20 00 Estes Park 250 $28 00 to 35 00 The Brinwood C. L. Reed & Sons Moraine Park... . Estes Park 75 60 17.50 to 30.00 3 50 to 6 00 (Day) Camp Wheeler. . . 20 3 00 (Day) 64 16 00 to 33 00 Copeland Lodge Allen's Park 60 18.00 to 20.00 Joe Mills Estes Park 150 21 00 to 45 00 Estes Park 250 2 1 00 to 40 00 Estes Park Hotel . . . Fall River Lodge A. D. Lewis D J March Estes Park Estes Park 50 50 15.00 to 25.00 16 00 to 35 00 F. W. Byerly . 50 20.00 F D Tecker 50 20 00 Hewes-Kirkwood C. E. Hewes 80 18.00 to 25.00 Horseihoe Inn Hupp Hotel Josephine Hotel Bradley & Patrick Address Manager A. D. Lewis Estes Park Estes Park Estes Park 100 75 40 40 16.00 to 30.00 16.00 to 20.00 15.00 to 25.00 2 50 (Day) Grand Lake 30 2 00 (Day) Lawn Lake Lodge Bradley Sc Patrick Estes Park Grand Lake 15 25 3.25 (Day) 2 00 (Day) . . . Lesters Hotel Address Manager Estes Park 100 16.00 to 22.00 A D Lewis Estes Park /O 22 50 to 40.00 Enos A Mills 150 2 1 00 to 49 00 Mrs W. D McPherson 75 1600 to 30.00 Narwata Hotel Grand Lake 20 2 50 (Day) National Park Hotel Allen's Park 45 15.00 to 18.00 Prospect Inn Rapids Lodge. . . Address Manager Address Manager Estes Park Grand Lake . 30 50 2.00 to 2.50 (Day) 2.50 (Day) Rockdale ... Estes Park 50 15.00 to 22.00 Sprague's Lodge Stanley Hotel Steads Ranch and Hotel Timberline Cabin . . A. E. Sprague Address Manager Address Manager Enos A. Mills Estes Park Estes Park Moraine Park. . . Lonar's Ptak 50 300 200 18.00 to 21.00 28.00 to 84.00 16.00 to 21.00 4.25 (Day) Furnished cottages may be rented from C. H, Bond. Estes Park. Colo., and Hayden Bros.. Estes Park. Colo., at from $15.00 per week to $1.000.00 for the season. Mrs. C. R. Berger. Estes Park. Colo., has a number of cottage* and tent houses at McCrecry's Ranch, furnished for light housekeeping, for rent at $75.00 to $135.00 for the Page twenty-two seasoo The National Parks at a glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Beaumont, Tex. .Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St. Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago, 111 1 75 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas, Tex 1 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 I 7th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex Mills and Oregon Sts. 702 Houston St. . . . .J and Fresno Sts. .21st and Market Sts. . .585. Main St. Ft. Worth. Tex Fresno, Cal . . . Galveston, Tex Helena, Mont. . . . Houston. Tex .... Kansas City, Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. . 904 Texas Ave. Lincoln, Nab 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Cal.. . .L.A.& S.L. Station Los Angeles. Cal 215 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis, Minn. 202 Sixth St. .South Oakland. Cal. . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City. Okla. 1 3 1 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. N^b 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. 111.. .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland. Ore. . 3d and Washington Sts. St. Paul, Minn.. .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento, Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah. Main and S. Temple St3. San Antonio. Texas. 3 1 5- 1 7 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose. Cal. I st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La.Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash. . . I I I /-1 9 Pacific Ave. Waco, Texas. . . .6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal.. . . L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg, Man 226 Portage Ave. Annapolis. Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J. . . 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore, Md . . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y..Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland, Ohio. . . . 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus. Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton, Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. Philadelphia. Pa. ...1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh, Pa Arcade Building Pueblo, Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave St Joseph, Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo.. . .318-328 N. Broadway East Detroit. Mich. . . I 3 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind.. .L. c N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Indianapolis. Ind.l 12-14 English Block Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. Newark, N. J.Clinton and Beaver Sts. Syracuse, N. Y University Block New York N. Y 64 Broadway Toledo. Ohio 320 Madison Ave. New York' N. Y 57 Chambers St. Washington. D. C. . . . 1 229 F St.. N. W. New York' NY 31 W. 32d St. Williamsport. Pa 4th and Pine Sts. New York! N! Y I 1 4 W. 42d St. Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. South Asheville, N. C 14 S. Polk Square Knoxville. Ten n 600 Gay St. Paducah, Ky 430 Broadway Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Lexington. Ky Union Station Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Augusta. Ga 811 Broad St. Louisville, Ky. . . . .4th and Market Sts. Birmingham, Ala 2010 1st Ave. Lynchburg, Va. . 722 Main St. Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Memphis. Tenn 60 N Main St. Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Chattanooga. Tenn ... .81 7 Market St. Montgomery. Ala Exchange Hotel Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Nashville, Tenn. Independent Life Bldg. Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. New Orleans. La St. Charles Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Chicago. Page twenty-throe Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C. 236 N. Main St. SEASON 1919 PRESS OF FAULKNER-RYAN CO.. CHICAGO " What if Man. that Thou Art Mindful of Him?" The original site of a mammoth glacier which ate into the granite heart of Long's Peak i lit! S E Q U d GENERAL G National Parks * Californi UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION PHOTO BY HERBERT W. GLEASON Page two Grand Sentinel, King's River Canyon An Appreciation of Sequoia and General Grant National Parks By ROBERT STERLING YARD, Chief, Educational Division, National Park Service Written Mspci uilly for the United States Railroad Administration IF all my mountain nights the one photographed most sharply upon memory was spent in a Sequoia grove of the Giant Forest. We had come in late from the Yosemite, two weeks on the trail, with mule and pack-train, the length of the proposed Roosevelt National Park. In early afternoon we had crossed the northern boundary into the Sequoia. At sundown we had camped upon a ridge crowned with red-stemmed giants. The packs were stripped from the mules and heaped around the forest kitchen. Tie Sing set up his sheet-iron stove and hustled dinner. Camp fires were has- tily lighted, and we availed of the last twilight to choose levels for our sleeping bags, for in the Sierra, where it does not rain in summer, trail travelers carry no tents. Three of us shared a bedroom nobler far than ever housed a king. It was pentagonal in shape with every angle a purplish red sequoia trunk fifteen feet in diameter. The fire of cones, blazing in the center of the brown, sweet- smelling floor, threw these glowing pillars into powerful relief and drew between them black enclosing curtains of night. The ceiling, a hundred and twenty feet above, heavily carved in hanging plumes of yellowish green which the flickering fire outlined, swayed softly in the evening breeze. Lying in comfort and complete seclusion, my senses soothed with per- fumes as rare as my surroundings, imagination held me an excited captive. A moment later sunshine and a thousand bird songs filled the room. If you want rest with inspiration, go to the Sequoia National Park. In the Giant Forest grow a million sequoia trees, some of them tiny babies of a year springing sharply from the warm, moist soil; some of them youngsters of a thousand years just peering over the tops of the towering sugar pines; some of them youths of two thousand years with fine rounded crowns and huge bent arms hugging their plumed togas; some of them majestic seniors, three hundred feet in height, who began life while the dramas of the Book of Exodus were still enacting. But these are not all. In this amazing forest the greatest pines and firs of the whole Sierra, festooned with trailing moss, attain their greatest height and thickness, the picturesque, deciduous trees of the region reach their fullest development, and flowering shrubs of a hundred species crowd the shaded aisles. It is the Forest of Enchantment. From the Sequoia National Park and its little neighbor, the General Grant National Park, you may accent your summer's rest by trail trips into the famous canyons and up to the High Sierra of the wonderful Roosevelt National Park to come. Go to Sequoia. You will find there what earth nowhere else possesses; and you will find it good. Page three To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Sequoia and General Grant National Parks N the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada in Califor- nia, south of the Kings River Canyon and west of the Canyon of the Kern, are the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. They embrace a fairy- land of forest where wood-nymphs might revel to their hearts' content. Nowhere on earth would they feel so much at home; nowhere could they find such mazy labyrinths of dusky aisles, in such dense growths of mam- moth trees, in which to hold their frolics. The soothing influence of the wood- land appeals to all of us. Tired human- ity likes to stretch in the cool, beneath spreading branches. Let it be any kind of tree, or let it be only a rest for an hour or so, one rises refreshed. The charm has worked the ineffable charm of the out-of-doors and the for- est. And here, amidst mountain scen- ery unsurpassed in beauty and splendor, and beneath trees whose magnitude is unmatched, lies one of Nature's great- est rest-rooms and pleasure-grounds, open to all who seek healthful enjoy- ment, or who would behold some of the marvels of creation. The superb forests which cover this region contain the Sequoia Washing- toniana, or the Big Tree of California, some exceeding 300 feet in height and over 36 feet in diameter. It is the patriarch among trees, by some strange exemption saved to us from the pre- glacial age. It grows nowhere else than in the High Sierra of California, the finest specimens being embraced in the Sequoia, the Yosemite and the General Grant National Parks. But these trees are not to be thought of as the survivors of a dying species. There are many thousands of them here in their vigorous prime, hundreds of thousands of them in all the grace and strength of youth, their red shafts form- ing splendid collonades and cathedral- like archways. And when a mighty sequoia by chance is uprooted, its firm- grained wood lies undecaying for cen- turies. Who has best described these giants of the forest? See what John Muir said of them he who lived among them: "No description can give any ade- quate idea of their singular majesty, much less of their beauty. Excepting the sugar pine, most of their neighbors with pointed tops seem to be forever shouting 'Excelsior,' while the big tree, though soaring above them all, seems satisfied, its rounded head poised lightly Page four There are many ideal camping spots in this region as a cloud, giving no impression of try- ing to go higher. Only in youth does it show like other conifers a heaven- ward yearning, keenly aspiring with a long, quick-growing top. Indeed the whole tree for the first century or two, or until 1 00 to 150 feet high, is arrow- head in form, and, compared with the solemn rigidity of age, is as sensitive to the wind as a squirrel tail. The lower branches are gradually dropped as it grows older and the upper ones thinned out till comparatively few are left. These, however, are developed to great size, divide again and again, and ter- minate in bossy rounded masses of leafy branchlets, while the head be- comes dome-shaped." "Then poised in fullness of strength and beauty, stern and solemn in mien, it glows with eager, enthusiastic life, quivering to the tip of every leaf and branch and far-reaching root, calm as a granite dome, the first to feel the touch of the rosy beams of the morning, the last to bid the sun good-night." And what birdhouses they make! Of this feature John Muir wrote: The dense tufted sprays make snug nesting places for birds, and in some of the loftiest, leafiest towers of ver- dure thousands of generations have been reared, the great solemn tree shedding off flocks of merry singers every year from nests, like the flocks of winged seed from the cones." Of their age, he had this to say: "The big tree can not be said to at- tain anything like prime size and beauty before its fifteen-hundredth year, or under favorable circumstances become old before its three-thousandth." "Many no doubt are much older than this. On one of the giants, 35 feet 8 inches in diameter exclusive of bark, I counted upward of four thousand an- nual wood rings, in which there was no trace of decay after all these centuries of mountain weather." More Than a Million Sequoia Trees The Sequoia National Park has an area of 161,597 acres, and ranges in altitude from 1,100 to 11,900 feet. In the Park there are over a million of sequoia trees, 12,000 of them exceed- ing ten feet in diameter, in addition to phenomenal monsters of great age. The Big Trees here are not in isolated groves, but within the park boundaries of twenty miles north to south, form a chain of twelve groves in an almost un- broken forest of sequoias and pine that extends southward across the whole Kaweah watershed and along the flanks of the range, for nearly seventy miles. Page five Golden Trout Creek The Giant Forest, so named by John Muir, is the largest of these groves, containing in its 3,200 acres over half a million sequoia trees, of which 5,000 exceed ten feet in diameter. And here stands the General Sherman tree, most celebrated of all and the largest tree in the world, 279.9 feet high and 36.5 feet in diameter. Such immensity in a tree is hard to realize; its massive trunk and branches contain about one million feet of lumber. Compared with the trees with which we are all fa- miliar the ordinary forest that we know these trees are like a troop of elephants amongst a flock of sheep. If placed closely side by side thirty-six of them would occupy an acre of land, whereas, were pine trees with trunks at the base four feet in diameter, simi- larly placed, over 2700 would be re- quired to fill the same space. Stand- ing amidst these forest giants one feels as though transported to another planet for trees like these we had not con- ceived of as being on Earth. The General Sherman tree has about reached its four -thousandth birthday, and was a seedling in the year B. C. 2,080. The grove also contains many peers of the Sherman tree approach- ing it in size and age. Other noted trees in the Park are the Abraham Lin- coln, 270 feet high and 31 feet in diameter; and the William McKinley, which is 290 feet high with a diameter of 28 feet. There is a small hotel in the Giant Forest, where good accom- modations are provided; also an ad- joining camp of modern tent-houses. The General Grant National Park, lying to the northwest, across mountain, valley and forest, has an area of 2,536 acres and ranges in altitude from 5,250 to 7,631 feet. It is one of the smallest of our national parks and was established for the protection of the General Grant tree, widely known for its size and beauty. In the surrounding grove, which is as luxuriant in all growing things as the Giant Forest, there are 10,000 sequoias, 190 of which exceed ten feet in diameter. The General Grant tree, which is second only to the General Sherman in size, and al- most the same age, is 264 feet high, and over 35 feet in diameter. A dis- tinguished neighbor is the George Washington tree, only nine feet less in height and six feet less in diameter. In a cathedral-like grove there is a camp of comfortable tent-houses. The southern boundary of the Gen- eral Grant National Park and the northern boundary of the Sequoia Na- tional Park are only six miles apart, Page s ^ Mountain lake near base of Mt. Whitne^ but the horse trail between the Giant Forest in the Sequoia Park and the cen- ter of the Grant Park is thirty-two miles in length. An auto road between the Parks is under construction. Rugged Canyons, Peaks and Mountain Streams In addition to its big tree groves, the Sequoia National Park has many natural attractions that will delight the sightseer. There are wooded canyons thousands of feet deep, and mountain heights commanding sublime views. Many places of interest are within pleasant walking distance, and horse trails lead to the numerous more distant vantage points. Each trip unfolds a landscape that will remain long in the memory. The scene disclosed from the summit of Moro Rock across the great Can- yon of the Kaweah River, looking toward Castle Rock rising 5,000 feet from the valley floor, is notable. Moro Rock is two miles from Giant Forest by auto road. A 346-step stairway, with hand rail, leads to its top. Mount Silliman, 11,188 feet, is nine and a half miles to the northeast, its summit being reached by horse and foot trail, while to the south are Alta Peak and Alta Meadow, the latter an inviting stopping place, each com- manding vistas to the west and northwest wondrous in their mountain splendor. The Marble, Middle, East and South Forks of the Kaweah River wind deep in their rugged canyons northeast to southwest through the Park, and numerous tributary creeks and streams in wooded gorges and forest-rimmed meadows join them from all directions, so the angler finds many dark pools below foaming rapids, and likely stretches of riffling waters, in which to cast his flies. The Kaweah River drains the west- ern flank of the Great Western Divide and the southern flank of Silliman Crest. Its upper tributaries have a wild course through an exceedingly rugged part of the range, some streams descending 6,500 feet in a hori- zontal distance of less than five miles. These cascading torrents flow through wonderful glacial canyons whose walls still gleam with the polish left by the ice in ages past. The smooth and burnished walls of Buck Canyon, the main gorge of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah, shine in the early morning light with an almost unearthly refulgence. By stopping a night at Alta Meadow a full appreciation of the magnificent scenery of the Kaweah headwaters can be obtained. Alta Meadow lies high on the wall of Buck Canyon. Be- yond the canyon's deep rift rises the serrated skyline of the Great Western Divine, gor- geous in the flush of sunset. Peak after peak, rosy in the alpenglow, rises against a sky of pearly gray with flame-touched bands of clouds above, while canyons and forests lie veiled in shadowy blues and purples. From Vanderver's peak, 11,900 feet and the highest elevation in the Park, a glorious view embraces the Canyon of the Kern, with Mount Whitney's summit and the ridge of towering peaks that form the Highest Sierra, silhouetted on the eastern horizon. Crystal Cave Adding to the allurements of the Park, a wonderful cave was discovered in April, 1918, in an unfrequented and rugged canyon, by anglers in quest of trout. It surpasses in attractiveness the famous Clough and Para- dise caves, also within the boundaries. It has been named Crystal Cave. It opens into Page seven m the southern side of a large limestone moun- tain, at the water's edge of Cactus Creek and near the western boundary. It has been explored a distance of 4,000 feet, and when certain openings have been enlarged, may disclose a mountain drilled with caverns. Throughout the cave, stalactites rich and wonderfully varied, sparkle in the gloom. There are chambers with ceilings a glittering mass of these needle-pointed spears, others with festoons of dazzling draperies suspended, while in some there stand bright fluted col- umns and stalagmites of surpassing symmetry and beauty. Wild Flowers; Bird and Wild Animal Life Wild flowers in abundance make garden spots throughout this woodland realm, dot- ting smooth meadows, peeping from mossy slopes and decorating rock crevises with their brilliant bloom. Flowering shrubs also lend their coloring to the park-like glades seen through openings in the forest; and in cool shady nooks ferns of many kinds, from the stately Warwardina to the dainty Maiden- hair, grow in rank luxuriance. John Muir said: "The Big Tree (Sequoia gigantea) i There have been recorded by the govern- ment supervisor forty-one species of birds, residents or seasonal visitors in the Sequoia Park. Of these, over one hundred named varieties many of them rare song birds and birds of bright plumage are seen and heard during the summer season, adding to one's pleasure and enjoyment. Many people visit the Park for the sole purpose of studying and ascertaining the habits of certain species of birds. A great number of the same varie- ties are found in the Grant Park. Frequently seen are the golden and bald eagle, owls, road- runners, woodpeckers and humming-birds, while warblers, finches and robins are everywhere. Both mountain and valley quail and Sierra grouse are also plentiful. Of wild animals, elk are occasionally seen in the Sequoia Park, while deer and bear, black and brown, are abundant in both the Sequoia and Grant Parks, as are also frol- icking squirrels, pine martens, hares and rab- bits. Mountain lions, lynx, timber wolves, foxes and coyotes are killed, or being driven from the Parks by the rangers whenever Nat. Page eight I iece. and, so far as I know, the greatest of living things." seen. Fire arms are not permitted within the National Parks. Proposed Roosevelt National Park The proposed Roosevelt National Park is designed to include not only the Sequoia National Park, but also the entire right-angle to the northeast formed by the Kings River Canyon, the Canyon of the Kern, and the High Sierra which lie to the eastward the giant peaks of the summit-crest culminating in Mount Whitney, 14,501 feet above sea level, and the highest mountain in the United States, excepting Mount McKinley in Alaska. The new territory embraces an area of 886,- 000 acres. There are towering snow-capped peaks; sawtooth ridges; over-hanging cliffs that sink into deep slashed canyons; forested slopes and grass-covered glades, with thundering rivers, foaming cataracts, and clear smooth-running streams twining through forested vales. Amidst the higher wilderness of granite crags are count- less glacial lakes, that flash erecting to the sun from snow-bound basins, while a hundred rivu- lets born in snowy heights sing their way down from this alpine zone toward flowering meadows and fragrant groves of pine. It is a land of the winding zig-zag trail, of the saddle horse and pack animal, for the camper and the tent-dweller. For the angler it is the fishing ground of his most cherished fancies, for here are waters still new to the cast of the fly. It is a real man's country; a country of the most glorious out-of-doors; and with its salubrious climate, a summer vacation-land beyond compare. Here the business man on his well-earned outing can laugh at office cares and nerve-rack, and re- turn to the city re-made, with vigor renewed; and many of his women folk, long-booted and mountain-togged, will enjoy it all as much as he. The Kings River Canyon About thirty-five miles north of the General Grant and the Sequoia National Parks, tl~e Kings River Canyon cuts east and west into the heart of the Sierra. From both the Grant Park and the Giant Forest in the Sequoia Park, over trai's by way of Horse Corral Meadow and Lookout Point, Page nine SEQUOIA AND GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARKS CALIFORNIA . _ Boundary , ^_ Boundary Proposed Roosevelt National Park utomobile Roads 'ain Trails .Other Trails *J&Y < &?js&fe Gardiner V /X^^eSO 11" i ^S 2903 ft. C \ (t^H-X Page ten saddle-horses and pack animals wind through primeval forests and alcng shoulders of great mountain ridges where lofty snow-clad peaks and deep gorges flash into view at every turn. The first view of the canyon from Lookout Point cannot be surpassed. Kings River Can- yon curves but little and its long perspective is seen for miles bisecting the Sierra ricges. At the base of precipices shimmer moist green meadows; dark forest-patches spot slopes and canyon floor, and through it all is traced the silvery line of the South Fork of the Kings River, its flow broken by long rapids, deep pools and tumultuous cascades. From Lookout Point the descent in three miles is 3,300 feet, and the floor of the canyon is reached at Cedar Grove, where the river is crossed and the trail makes upstream. The air is fragrant with pine and incense- cedar, ahead gleam open sunlit meadows bright with flowers, or set with trees in park- like precision but the roar of the river al- ways is in our ears. The comfortable tent- houses of the Kings River Camp stand beneath the brows of the the greatest cliffs of the canyon. Above rises the huge North Dome, and across the river (which is here joined by the rushing Copper Creek), looms the great Sentinal, its grani e face glowing with colors, its crest 3,500 feet above the waters edge. The Sphinx rears its head nearby. Much of the finest scenery lies close at hand Paradise Valley; the wild Bubb's Creek ravine; Mist Falls and Roaring River Falls. Glacier Rock rises at the head of the canyon, where the Kings River turns in from the north and is joined by Bubb's Creek cas- cading down from the east. The trail continues along the headwaters of the Kings, which make their way through its narrow gorge, breaking white against granite rocks. Five miles to the north the defile widens into a level-floored meadow held within vertical cliffs. This is Paradise Val- ley, a beautiful vale of the Sierra type, of the same character as Yosemite. Here camping is truly ideal and the angler will be tempted to follow the Kings to its lofty snowbank sources. A well-marked trail leads up the western side of the canyon to Woods Creek, and up that stream to Rae Lake, Lake Char- lotte, East Lake, Lake Reflection and Bry- anthus Lake gems of the clearest crystal and alive with trout. They are reached also by the Bubb's Creek trail. Another wonderful gorge reached from Kings River Camp, is Tehipite Canyon, on the Middle Fork of the Kings River. Tehi- pite Pinnacles are a series of jagged spires. At their base are wild waterfalls, and on Cartridge Creek, a tributary, are splendid cascades. Simpson Meadow is an excellent camping place. The Bubb's Creek trail leads from the Kings River Canyon up a steep ravine where the turbulent stream is terraced with count- less cascades. The canyon is like a great stairway into the heights above. At the top is the mighty rock-ridge of which the lowest point is Kearsarge Pass. Here one stands upon the bare back-bone of the Sierra. Mount Gould, Mount Gardner, the East Vi- dette, West Vidette, Deerhorn Mountain, Mount Bradley and Mount Rixford are ar- rayed against the skyline in a chain of ice- clad peaks. From this viewpoint you look far down the eastern wall of the Sierra to Owens Valley gleaming in the sun. The Mighty Gorge of the Kern River The Kern River Canyon is the only one of the mighty gorges of the Sierra Nevada which has a north and south trend, and is even more extensive than the canyon of the Kings; its walls rise as high, its encompassing peaks are higher. From the Kings Canyon you may cross the lofty Kings-Kern Divide over the John Muir trail east of Junction Peak, entering the Canyon of the Kern at its upper end. From Giant Forest a popular trail leads past Alta Meadow to Mineral King Valley, thence through Franklin Pass and down the canyon of Rattlesnake Creek to Kern River Canyon at the Lower Funston Meadow; while another trail is from Mineral King through Farewell Gap to Coyote Pass, de- scending into the great gorge at its lower end, opposite Volcano Creek, the home of the far-famed golden trout. The Kern River itself, a clear, cold mountain torrent, is a de- servedly noted trout stream. Rainbow trout, weighing over eight pounds, have been taken in these waters. The Kern Canyon reaches into the very heart of the highest Sierra. To the west rise the Kaweah Peaks, the loftiest 14,140 feet above sea level. From Miner's Peak one may look down upon the great Chagoopa Forest and into the immense dark cleft in the earth known as the Big Arroyo. Far to the north- east, at the head of the Kern Canyon, looms Mount Tyndall, 14,101 feet. A trail follows the Kern Canyon north to south, thirty miles, the cliffs on either side often rising three thousand feet. At one point in the lower canyon the course of the river, blocked by a landslide, has formed Kern Lake, a placid expanse of water which mir- rors its surroundings with miraculous clear- ness. Many Peaks for Mountain Climbing The mountaineer should strive to make the Mount Whitney trip. Its ascent is not especially difficult, and can be accomplished by continuous climbing for six or seven hours. From this supreme summit, 14,501 feet, more than sixteen thousand square miles lie out- spread beneath the eye a territory larger than Switzerland and within the range of vision are no less than sixty peaks exceed- ing twelve thousand feet in altitude. And from the summit of Mount Whitney one looks from the highest to the lowest point in Amer- ica, Death Valley, 351 feet below sea level, being visible far to the southeast. Mount Williamson, 14,384 feet, is much more dif- ficult. Tyndall, 14,025 feet, Langley, 14,043 feet, and the South Kaweah, 13.816 feet, are all interesting climbs for those who are happiest when ascending the peaks of the sky. Page eleven Twin Sisters. General Grant National Park In the High Sierra is a chain of lakes that reflect the glories of great snow peaks Accommodations and Transportation in the Parks Sequoia National Park. At the Giant Forest there is a hotel-camp, a general store, telephone station, photo- graph galleries, and post office of Giant Forest, Calif. Rates of Giant Forest Hotel-Camp Board and lodging: One person, per day $ 3.50 One person, per week 19.50 One person, four weeks 72.00 Two persons, per day, each 3.00 Two persons, per week, each 17.50 Two persons, four weeks, each 65.00 Meals without lodging: Breakfast and lunch, each 75 Dinner 1.00 Lodging without meals 1 .00 One-naif of the regular rate will be charged for children under 8 years of age. Baths $0.35 Guests desiring extra tent room will be charged as follows: Tent capacity of four people occupied by two, 50 cents each per day extra. Tent capacity of two people occupied by one, 50 cents per day extra. The Sequoia National Park Transportation Co. operates an auto stage service from Giant Forest to points of interest in the park at the following rates: Rates of Sequoia National Park Transportation Co. Parker Group, Moro Rock, and return one person Two or more, each Admiration Point and return One person Two or more, each General Sherman Tree and return One person. Two or more, each General Sherman Tree and Wolverton and icturn One person Two or more, each ... $1.00 .75 3.00 2.50 1.00 .75 2.00 1.50 Chester Wright. Giant Forest. Calif., has a license to conduct a saddle and pack animal transportation service in the Sequoia National Park. Parties can hire saddle horses and pack mules at $1.50 Per < j y eac ^' kut in all cases guide must accompany same. at $3.00 per day, the guide taking charge of packing and relieving tourists of responsibility for animals. All animals will be equipped with riding or pack saddles. Rates for Guides and Horses To Sherman Tree and return $2.00 To Sherman Tree, Wolverton, and return by Circle Meadow 3.00 To Moro Rock and return 2.00 To Moro Rock and return by Crescent. Log. and Huckleberry Meadows 2.50 To Alta and return 3.50 To Twin Lakes and return 3.50 To Moro Rock, Crescent, Log, Huckleberry Mea- dows, and Wolverton, and Sherman Tree 3.50 Parties wishing to make long trips will be furnished with special rates. General Grant National Park. In General Grant National Park there is a camp, a general store, telephone station, photograph gallery, and post office of General Grant National Park, Calif. Rates of General Grant National Park Camp Board and lodging: Per day, each person $ 3.25 Per week, each person .... Per month, each person 68.00 Meals or lodging, part of a day: Breakfast 75 Lunch. Dinner 1.00 Lodging 1 .00 One-half of the regular rate will be charged for children under 8 years of age. Baths $0.35 Guests desiring extra tent room will be charged as follows: Tent capacity of four people occupied by two. 50 cent* each per day extra. Tent capacity of two people occupied by one. 50 cent* per day extra. During the season of 1919 a few specially appointed cottages, with private reception room, hot and cold showers, etc., will be maintained at rate of $4.00 per day for one person, $3.50 per day for two persons, each, includ- ing board and lodging. Rates for Saddle Horse and Guide Service A tri-weekly saddle and pack train service is operated from General Grant Park to Kings River Canyon. The rates at the Kings River Canyon Camp are the same aa at the National Park, and the camp is under the same management. General Grant National Park is the logical gateway to Kings River Canyon points, such as Kearsarge Pass. Mt. Brewer. Rae Lake. Middle Fork Canyon, Simpson Meadow. and other points in the area of the proposed Roosevelt National Park. Page thirteen Saddle horses, per day $2.50 Pack mules, per day Packers and guides, per day Donkeys, per day ' -50 Donkeys, per week 7.00 Fare to Kings River Canyon and return How to Reach the Parks Sequoia National Park From the railroad stations of Exeter and Visalia. Calif., the Visalia Electric Railroad operates frequent daily service to Lemon Cove, Calif. Lemon Cove is connected with Sequoia National Park by automobile stages of the Sequoia National Park Transportation Company. Automobile stages leave Lemon Cove Mondays, Wednes- days and Fridays at 12:30 p. m.; arrive Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park (40 miles) 5:30 p. m. Stages leave Giant Forest Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 7:00 a. m.; arrive Lemon Cove 12:00 noon. Special trips will be made on alternate days under the same schedule when two or more passengers are available. Fares via Visalia Electric Railroad Between Visalia and Lemon Cove (21 miles), one-way 65c., round-trip $1.10. Between Exeter and Lemon Cove (1 1 miles), one way 35c., round-trip 60c. Stage Fares to Sequoia National Park Between Lemon Cove and Giant Forest, one-way $6.50, round-trip $12.00. Children under 12 years of age, one-half fare. Baggage allowance, 40 pounds; excess baggage, 2c per pound. General Grant National Park General Grant National Park is connected by automobile stages of the Kings River Stage & Transportation Com- pany with the railroad station of Sanger, Calif. Touring cars, operated by the Kings River Stage & Transportation Co., leave Sanger each morning (except Sunday) at 9:00 a. m. and arrive at General Grant National Park (46 miles) at 2:30 p. m.; leave General Grant Na- tional Park at 9:00 a. m. and arrive Sanger at 2:00 p. m. Stops for lunch are made in each direction. Stage Fares to General Grant National Park From Sanger to General Grant National Park, $5.50. From General Grant National Park to Sanger, $4.00. Round-trip. $8.00. Baggage allowance, 50 pounds; excess baggage, $1.25 per 100 pounds. Season The 1919 season for both Parks extends from May 24th to October !0th. Park Administration Sequoia and General Grant National Parks are under the jui isdict ion of the Director, National Park Service, Depart- ment of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Super- intendent is located at Three Rivers, Calif. Railroad Tickets and Stopovers During summer season round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at certain stations in California to Sequoia National Park and to General Grant National Park as destinations. ^ Through tickets to other destinations (reading between Los Angeles and San Francisco, for example), will be hon- ored via Exeter and Sanger instead of via Goshen Junction. or via Visalia instead of via Laton, as the case might be. Both round-trip and one-way tickets are good for stop- overs at Exeter or Visalia for side-trip to Sequoia National Park, and at Sanger for side-trip to General Grant National Park. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be made by money order or in cash: "The Secret of the Big Trees," by Ellsworth Huntington. 24 pages, 14 illustrations, 5 cents. " Forests of Yosemite, Sequoia, and General Grant National Parks," by C. L. Hill. 40 pages, 23 illustrations, 20 cents. "The National Parks Portfolio," by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages. 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine national parks. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. The following may be obtained from the Director of the United States Geological Sur- vey, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Topographic map of Sequoia National Park, 10 cents. Topographic map of General Grant National Park, 10 cents. The following publications may be ob- tained free by written request addressed to the Director, National Park Service, Washington, D. C., or by personal application to the office of the superintendent of the park : Circular of General Information Regarding Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. Glimpses of Our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and Monuments and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be ob- tained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111. : Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park, Oregon Glacier National Park, Montana Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado Mount Ranier National Park, Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin, Minnesota, Upper Michigan. Iowa and Illinois Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Sequoia and General Grant Nat onal Parks. California Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho Yosemite National Park. California Zion National Monument. Utah Deer Horn Mountains from Bryanthus Lake. Sequoia National Park Page fourteen FSF^ The National Parks at a Glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: Beaumont. Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago. 111. ... 175 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs. Colo.. II9E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 1 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. -Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth, Minn. . . .334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex. . .Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno. Calif J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex. 2 1st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. -Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo., Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Lincoln. Neb 104 N. 13th St. Little Rock. Ark 202 W. 2d St. Long Beach. Calif.. L.A. & S.L. Station Los Angeles. Calif ... 2 1 5 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn.. 202 Sixth St.South Oakland. Calif. 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Calif 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City. Okla.. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria. 111. .Jefferson and Liberty Sta. Phoenix. Ariz., Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore., 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo, Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo., I 318-328 N. Broadway East St. Paul. Minn. .4th and Jackson Sta. Sacramento. Calif 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah. Main and S. Temple Sta. San Antonio, Tex., 315-17 N. St. Mary 'a St. San Diego, Calif 300 Broadway San Francisco. Calif. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Calif.. IstandSanFernandoSta. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La..Milam and Market Sta. Sioux City. Iowa .510 4th St. Spokane. Wash.. Davenport Hotel, 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma, Wash .. 1 I 1 7-19 Pacific Ave. Waco, Tex 6th and Franklin Sta. Whittier. Calif . L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. - ***iMJVVM10 t IVIU . . . Atlantic City, N. J.. 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md. . . B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y.. Main and Division Sts. -Cincinnati. Ohio. .6th and Main Sts. .1004 Prospect Ave. . Cleveland. Ohio. Columbus. Ohio Dayton. Ohio . . . 1539 Chestnut St. . .Arcade Building Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. Syracuse. N. Y.. Toledo. Ohio . . . . 70 East Gay St. 19S. Ludlow St. Washington. D. C Williamsport. Pa . University Block 320 Madison Ave. .1229 F St. N. W. .4th and Pine Sta. .Annapolis Md 54 Maryland Ave. Detroit. Mich. . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. I Philadelphia. Pa Evansville. Ind. .L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Pittsburgh. Pa. . Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. I 12-14 English Block Newark. N. J.. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York, N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y. . . .57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. | Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. South Knoxville, Tenn 600 Gay St. Lexington. Ky Union Station Louisville. Ky. . .4th and Market Sta. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery. Ala .... Exchange Hotel Nashville Tenn.. Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La .... St. Charlea Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines. 646 Transportation Bldg.. Chicago. Page fifteen Asheville. N. C. . . . 14 S. Polk Square Atlanta. Ga 74 Peachtree St. Augusta, Ga 8 11 Broad St. Birmingham, Ala 2010 1st Ave. 'Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Charlotte. N. C 22 S. Tryon St. Chattanooga. Tenn. . .817 Market St. Columbia. S. C Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla 38 W. Bay St. Paducah. Ky . la. Fla .430 Broadway Pensacola. Fla San Carlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla Hillsboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. 13 19 Waahington St. Winaton-Salem. N. C.. 236 N. Main St. SEASON 1919 RATHBUN-6RANT-HELLER CO.. CHICAGO The General Sherman Tree, largest and oldest living thing in all the world YELLOWSTONE National Park WYOMING - NTANA- IDAHO UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION P A R. K. Copyright by Hayni. Si. Paul Riverside Geyer Unlike moet Geycrs it cpouU obliquely instead of vertically. |t arching column of water thrown into the Firehole River P a i* < uo An Appreciation of Yellowstone National Park By EMERSON HOUGH Author oj "The Mississippi Rubble" "54-40 or Fight" '"Che Wau to the West." ft, Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration FTER every war there comes a day of diligence. Usually war is followed by a rush of soldiers back to the soil. We have 3,000,000 soldiers, a large per cent of whom are seeking farms. This means the early use of every reclaimable acre of American soil. It means that the wildernesses of America soon will be no more. Our great National Parks are sections of the old American wilder- ness preserved practically unchanged. They are as valuable, acre for acre, as the richest farm lands. They feed the spirit, the soul, the character of America. Who can measure the value, even to-day, of a great national reserve such as the Yellowstone Park? In twenty years it will be beyond all price, for in twenty years we shall have no wild America. The old days are gone forever. Their memories are ours personally. We ought personally to understand, to know, to prize and cherish them. Of all the National Parks Yellowstone is the wildest and most universal in its appeal. There is more to see there more different sorts of things, more natural wonders, more strange and curious things, more scope, more variety a longer list of astonishing sights than any half dozen of the other parks combined could offer. Daily new, always strange, ever full of change, it is the circus park, Nature's continuous Coney Island. It is the most human and the most popular of all the parks. But Yellowstone is more, and very much more, than that, espe- cially in its new and vastly enlarged form to-day. As it now is con- stituted, it is the noblest sweep of unspoiled and yet fully accessible mountain country to be found within or without our National Park limits. Here, indeed, you may see the ROCKIES, and as you look, there will arise in your soul the phrase, "As it was in the Beginning!" Happily also follows the remainder of the choral chant, "Is now, and ever shall be!" What price can you put on that? Yellowstone is at once the easiest, the most feasible, the most human of all the parks, and also the wildest and most unchanged. No other park, and no other mountain region within our borders, Page three holds such numbers, or such numbers of species, of native American big game. The bears of Yellowstone have made it famous, as has its Painted Canyon. Its vast elk herds the last hope of that species in America- have no like anywhere in our country now. The bighorn sheep, rarest and wildest of our big game animals, still lives its old life there. The wise and busy beaver builds its dams as it always did. The antelope still may be seen, shadowy, fleet. The two species of American deer still thrive. Lastly, there still are to be seen some hundreds of the noblest of all our wild animals, the bison; a herd larger now than it was when, in the winter of 1894, the writer of these lines explored Yellowstone Park on ski and made public the danger then existing of the extinction of the wild bison at the hands of ruthless winter hunters. Who can measure the value of these native treasures? Where else can you see them? What other country, what other printed page, can teach you so much as a week's reading of Nature's page here? And you can travel and live in perfect comfort! That is alm< the most astonishing thing about Yellowstone. You can photograph a wild bear and eat a course dinner within the same hour. You per- haps can see the buffalo from your seat in a comfortable touring c< You can see the Canyon and geysers and the Grand Tetons and a do; bold mountain lakes and streams and yet sleep in as good a bed you left at home. Literally, the world has nothing like this. Otl parks have one attraction, several; but none has all these. And discomfort or danger or weariness will mar your day's delights. I know the Yellowstone why should I not, who have seen last corners, summer and winter? I have fought for its elk, its buff< its trout, its wider-flung boundaries. I know it and love it all that is why the United States Railroad Administration asks me to write these few words about it. So will you love it when you know And you ought to know it. That is part of your education as American, as well as one of your American privileges in pleasurii Thank God, you Americans, that Yellowstone is now and shall be your own! Thank God that there you still can see a part of the old West your own West as it was in the Beginning! Page four Page five =! " 1 To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur; beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Yellowstone National Park The Yellowstone is the largest and per- haps the best known of our national parks. John Colter, of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, who was in the region in 1807, was the first white man to see any part of what is now the Park. James Bridger and Jos. L. Meek, fur trappers, were there in the 30's. Warren A. Ferris saw the geysers in 1834, and wrote the first published account of them. Captain DeLacy explored a part of the country in 1863. Folsom, Cook, and Peterson were there in 1869; the Washburn-Doane party in 1870, and Doctor Hayden in 1871-72. Yellowstone was created a national park by act of Congress, in 1872. The Park proper is about 62 miles long from north to south, 54 miles wide, and has an area of 3,348 square miles, or 2, 1 42,270 acres. It is situated principally in north- western Wyoming, but laps over a little on the north and west into Montana and Idaho. The Park is an elevated plateau surrounded by mountains and has an average elevation above sea level ran} ing from 7,000 to 8,000 feet. There is nothing in all the world lil Yellowstone National Park. You can' make it relative, because there is standard of comparison; but you m< take it for granted that it is the r< wonderland, embracing an aggregatic of fantastic phenomena as weird as it wild and remarkable. It contains g< sers, mud volcanoes, mineral spring exquisitely colored pools, and simil< manifestations of Nature. There found here something like 4,000 h( springs, large and small; 100 geysers, and little. It has many rushing riv< and limpid lakes, well filled with troul It has waterfalls of great height and Ian volume. It has dense forests, mainly of pine, spruce, fir, and cedar. It has areas of petrified forests with trunks standing. A wide variety of wild flowers of brilliai hues grow in profusion. It has cany< of sublimity, one of which presents unequalled spectacle of golden coloi Its immense area affords safe refuge Page six Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul An interesting bit of the Grand Canyon below Tower Falls Page seven Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul Wild flowers grow in great profusion and variety almost everywhere in Yellowstone National Park the animals of the wild. Nearly 200 different kinds of birds have been noted here. The hotels rank with the best resort hotels to be found anywhere. The permanent camps offer all the enjoy- able features of camp life, without its dis- comforts. Thus it will be noted that it is a mis- take to associate Yellowstone with gey- sers alone. While the Yellowstone gey- sers have no counterpart in the rest of the world, without the geysers the Yellow- stone watershed alone, with its glowing canyon, would be worthy of a national park. Were there also no canyon, the scenic wilderness and its incomparable wealth of wild animal life would be wor- thy of the national park. The person- ality of the Yellowstone is threefold. The hot-water manifestations are worth minute examination, the canyon a con- templative visit, the park a summer. Dunraven Pass, Mount Washburn, the Grand Canyon at Tower Falls, and other interesting points are not extensively known, but should be seen by every visitor to the Park. A bill providing for the addition to Yellowstone Park of an area of 1,1 square miles, south of and adjoining tl Park, is pending in Congress. This tension will include the craggy, serrate granite peaks of the Teton Range, Jacl son Lake, all of the rugged scenic lam north of the Buffalo Fork of the Snal River, including the valleys of Pilgrii and Pacific creeks to Two Ocean Pas also the canyons, lakes, and forests of tl Upper Yellowstone and the Thorofai Basin. The inclusion of this territor will give Yellowstone a stupendous e? hibit of mountain scenery, which is coi parable to the finest in the world. Tl amazing Teton Mountains are, from th< nature, a part of the Yellowstone NJ tional Park, whose gamut of majesti< scenery they complete. Already Yellow- stone visitors have claimed it and auto- mobile stages operate to Moran on Jack- son Lake. As a place for one to spend as man] weeks as may be possible during th< heated months, no spot in this count excels Yellowstone. Its elevation sea level an average of 7,500 feet il location in the heart of the Americai /' a i- c eight Rockies amid some of the earth's most inspiring scenery, combined with the extreme purity of the atmosphere, the tonic and exhilarating effect of the moun- tain climate, the fine character of the hotels arid camps, the good roads and trails affording the most interesting horse- back rides, the excellent trout fishing, the mountain climbing, the weird scenery, the wild animals all make up the ensem- ble of an ideal vacation experience. The Park is absolutely unique and original; to see it once means a desire to see it again. It grows on one, and many revisit it year after year. Remember Yellowstone National Park is yours. An Invigorating Climate The elevation, together with the corre- sponding equable temperatures, the pure waters, and the health-laden breezes from the pine forests, is sufficient explanation of the Park's nearly perfect climate. During the tourist season the mean aver- age temperatures range from 54 to 64, with a maximum of 88. The air is pure and bracing. With days that are comfortable and sunshiny, but never hot and oppressive, inviting opportunity for every kind of healthful recreation; with nights that are always cool, conducive to sound sleep, nothing is wanting to make a week, a month, or a season here everything that an outing should be. Those who spend any considerable time in the Park and engage in fishing, hiking or horseback riding, motoring or boating, will receive big "dividends" in health. Where The Geysert Gush Nature has lavished her gifts on the region of the Yellowstone. Here are wild woodland, crystal rivers, gorgeous can- yons, and sparkling cascades; but of all its wonders none is so unusual, so start- ling, so weird, as the geysers. Once seen, the memory and mystery of them will forever linger. The Yellowstone geysers are renowned the world over, be- cause of their size, power, number, and variety of action. The more prominent geysers are con- fined to three basins, lying near each Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul Punch Bowl Spring One of a myriad of hot springs, pools and geysers, which fill the Upper Geyser Basin other in the middle west zone. Other hot water manifestations occur in all parts of the Park. Marvelously col- ored hot springs, mud volcanoes, and other strange phenomena are frequent. The geysers exhibit a large variety of character and action. Some, like Old Faithful, spout at regular inter- vals; some of the other large ones play at irregular intervals of days, weeks, or months; some small ones play every few minutes. Some burst upward with im- mense power; others hurl streams at angles or bubble and foam. Yellowstone has more geysers than all the rest of the world. Some are literal volcanoes of water. To translate this into volume we will use Old Faithful as an example. According to observations made by the United States Geological Survey, this most famous of all geysers hurls in the air every sixty-five or seventy minutes a million and a half gallons of water, or 33,225,000 gallons a day. This would supply a city of 300,000 inhabi- tants. The most important geysers and springs are listed below (based upon observations, season 1917): Upper Basin Morris Basin NAME Height of Eruption in Feet Length of Eruption Intervals Between Eruptions Artemisia Bee Hive Castle Cub 50 200 50-75 60 10 to 15 min' 6 to 8 min. 30 min. 8 min. 24 to 20 hrs. Several hrs. 24 t. 26 hrs. Daily Fan Giant Giantess Grand Grotto 25 200-250 150-200 200 20-30 10 min. 1 hour 12 to 36 hrs. 40 to 60 min. Varies Irregular 6 to 14 'days 5 to 40 days 1 to 4 days 2 to 5 hrs. ^rel 5-20 50-60 1 min. 2 to 4 min. 5 min. 2 to 7 times Lioness Mortar Oblong Old Faithful Riverside 80-100 30 20-40 120-170 80-100 10 min. 4 to 6 min. 3 min. 4 min. 15 min. daily Irregular Irregular 8 to 1 2 hrs. 65to70min. 8 hrs. Sawmill .. Spasmodic Turban 20-35 20-40 1 to 2 hrs. 2 min. 20 min. Twice a day 2 to 3 hrs. Irregular NAME Height of Eruption in Feet Length of Eruption Intervals Between Eruptions Constant Congress Pool . . . Echinus 15-35 Large boiling 30 Beautiful ho 10-15 8-15 100-125 6-25 60 5 to 15 sec. spring 3 min. springs I rregular 40 to 45 min. Continuous 1 to 3 min. at times Irregular 2 to 5 min. Irregular Emerald Pool . . . Minute Man .... j 5 to 30 sec. 6 min. 1 to 4 min. 1 5 to 60 min. New Crater Valentine NAME Jlack Warrior . White Dome Clepsydra Great Fountain . . Mammoth Paint Pots Prismatic Lake . . Turquoise Lower Basin _ t of Eruption in Feet : ew feet 10 10-40 75-100 Length of Eruption 1 min. Short 45 to 50 min. nterval Between Eruptic Continuous 40to60min. 3 min. 8 to I I hrs. Basin of boiling clay Remarkable coloring 100 feet in diameter The Lone Star Geyser, just off the r< from Upper Basin to Thumb, has one the most beautiful cones. It plays sixty feet in the air for ten minutes, at intervals of forty minutes. Grand Canyon and Great Falls oi the Yellowstone The glories of the Great Falls and th< beauty of the Grand Canyon rival the geysers in interest. The canyon is vast. A cross-section ii the largest part measures 2,000 feet at tl top and 200 feet at the bottom, wil 1 ,200 feet of depth. The Upper Fall 109 feet, the Lower or Great Fall, feet in height. The canyon and Low< Fall a composite picture are seen the best advantage from Artist Foil and Inspiration Point. The following quotations describe well as words can this awe-inspirm{ wonder: Lieut. G. C. Doane, U. S. A., in charj of the military escort of the Washbui government expedition of 1870, wrote: "There are perhaps other canyoi longer and deeper than this one, bv surely none combining such grandeur ai immensity and peculiarity of formatior and profusion of volcanic or chemical phenomena. The combinations of me- tallic lustres in the coloring of walls are truly wonderful, surpassing, doubtless, anything of the kind on the face of globe." Page ten Photo by Haynes, St. Paul There are Geyaen and Geyaera some smaller, aome larger, but none so popular aa Old Faithful Never failing, always on time, it perform* about every seventy minute* Copyright by Hoynes, St. Paul Old Faithful Inn A most unique hotel in a most unique region near Old Faithful Geyser, overlooking the Upper Geyser Basin Rudyard Kipling wrote: "All that I can say is that without warning or preparation I looked into a gulf 1,700 feet deep, with eagles and fish-hawks circling far below. And the sides of that gulf were one wild welter of color crimson, emerald, cobalt, ochre, amber, honey splashed with port wine, snow-white, vermilion, lemon, and silver-grey in wide washes. The sides did not fall sheer, but were graven by time and water and air into monstrous heads of kings, dead chiefs men and women of the old time. So far below that no sound of strife could reach us, the Yellowstone River ran, a finger-wide strip of jade green. The sun- light took those wondrous walls and gave fresh hues to those that Nature had already laid there. "Evening crept through the pines that shadowed us, but the full glory of the day flamed in that canyon as we went out very cautiously to a jutting piece of rock blood-red or pink it was that hung the deepest deeps of all." The famous artist Moran said: "Itc beautiful tints are beyond the reach human art." And General Sherm? referring to Moran's painting of the yon, added: "The painting by Moran the Capitol is good, but painting ai words are unequal to the subject." Folsom, connected with the private expedition of '69, and who first wrote the canyon, said: " Language is entire inadequate to convey a just conceptic of the awful grandeur and sublimity this most beautiful of Nature's han< kt . The Terraced Mammoth Hot Sprii At Mammoth Hot Springs, in the nort of the Park, hot waters heavily char$ with lime have built up tier upon tier white terraces which the algae-lad( waters color faint tints of red, yellow, blue, and pink. Each terrace carries basins, elaborately carved and frett< which, when their springs run di merge into the great hills of white foi tion, while new basins form upon tl edges. These terraces engulf trees. Th< form an astonishing spectacle. Page twelve Pulpit, Jupiter, Cleopatra, and Hymen terraces, Orange Spring, the White Ele- phant, Angel Terrace, and the Devil's Kitchen are the most important attrac- tions. Liberty Cap, a monument-like shaft, was once embodied in a terrace; because it was of harder rock-like mate- rial, the erosion which washed away its surrounding formation has left it stand- ing. A similar but smaller shaft near-by is known as the Giant's Thumb. There are rides, walks, and drives about the springs. The mouth of Boiling River, and the canyon and Osprey Fall of the Middle Gardiner River behind Bunsen Peak, are all within walking dis- tance; they also can be reached by horse- back or by auto. The general panorama at Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the most strik- ing in the Park. The steaming, tinted terraces and Fort Yellowstone near-by; the long, palisaded escarpment of Mount Everts to the east; the dominating pres- ence of Bunsen Peak to the south, with the Gardiner Canyon and the distant elevations of the Mount Washburn group; the rugged slopes of Terrace Mountain to the west, and the distant peaks of the Snowy Range to the north all together form a surrounding landscape of wonderful beauty and contrast. A Wild Animal Refuge The Yellowstone National Park is per- haps the largest and certainly the most successful wild-animal refuge in the world. For this reason it offers an excep- tional field for nature study. The increase in the number of wild animals in the Park is very noticeable: this because of the careful protection afforded them. Hunting is prohibited, except with a camera, and this is encour- aged. Besides many bears and buffaloes, there are antelope, mountain sheep, whitetail and mule deer, and more than 30,000 elk. These animals are harmless when no attempt is made to annoy or interfere with them. They may not always be seen by the visitors in the automobiles which travel the main highways daily during the season, but the quiet watcher on the near-by trails The Lounge, a distinctive feature of the beautiful Grand Canyon Motel Page thirteen A picturesque spot on the auto road at Gibbon Falls may often see deer and bear and elk and antelope, and he may even see mountain sheep, moose, and buffalo by journeying on foot or by horseback into their retreats. The summer season in the Park is the vacation period for bears. Morning and evening a few of the many bears in the Park frequent the vicinity of the hotels and camps and wax fat and sleek upon food the hotels throw away. Watching these bears feed is one of the early even- ing diversions. Occasionally a grizzly may be seen among them. Only twenty-five buffalo had been left by hunters when protection laws were passed in 1896. These have increased now to nearly 400. They are in two herds. The larger, miscalled the "tame herd," because it is somewhat under con- trol by the rangers, lives in the upper Lamar Valley, where visitors may easily find it. Approach is over a good motor road. During the summer tourist season, a few of these are driven into pasture at Mammoth Hot Springs so as to be visible to the tourists. The so- called wild herd roams the wilderness round about Yellowstone Lake. There are many moose around the southeast arm of Yellowstone Lake and on Hell-roaring Creek, and they are in- creasing in number. Occasionally one or more may be seen by tourists near the main road of the Park, far from their favorite haunts. The beaver, once so important a part of animal life in the West, are also rapidly increasing. Almost every stream shows signs of their presence. Near Tower Falls there are several colonies; the ponds are easily seen by tourists who visit the locality. There are also some beside the Tower Fall road, near Mammoth Hot Springs, just south of the crossing of Lava Creek. Of birds there are between 1 50 and 200 species geese, ducks, pelicans, gulls, eagles, hawks, owls, night hawks, ravens, Rocky Mountain jays, tanagers, blue- birds, water ouzels, blackbirds, meadow larks, robins, and others. Pail f our tt t n Excursions On Yellowstone Lake Yellowstone Lake is a large sheet of water, of irregular form, its shores heavily wooded and indented. It is of moderate depth and twenty miles across. The Ab- saroka Range of snow-capped mountains rises from its edge to altitudes of 1 0,000 to 1 1 ,000 feet. On the shore of the lake at the West Arm, there are highly colored paint pots and many hot pools. From the lake the mountain scenery of the Park is seen to exceptional advantage. There are attractive camping and outing spots on the borders of Yellowstone Lake and in the neighboring mountains. Nu- merous motor boat trips may be made by arranging with the boat company at Lake Outlet. Among these are trips to the southeast arm of the lake, where one may see the pelicans on Molly Island; a trip to the south arm of the lake, also to Flat Mountain Arm, and another one to Steamboat Point. An equipment of new, small motor boats is available for these excursions. Rates for rowboats are $2.00 a day; 50 cents an hour. Row- boats equipped with motors, $7.50 a day; first hour, $3.00; each additional hour, $1.25. Near the Lake Outlet, the Government has constructed a sub-fish hatchery that adds interest to the locality. Well Stocked Fishing Grounds In 1889 the United States Fish Com- mission began the distribution of fish in the Park waters. In recent years there has been an annual distribution aggre- gating hundreds of thousands of trout, so that most of the lakes and streams in which fish can thrive are now stocked with one or more varieties. Something like 10,000,000 young fish have been placed in Park \vaters. These comprise grayling and Rocky Mountain whitefish; black spotted or native trout; rainbow, Loch Leven, lake, eastern brook, and Von Behr or brown trout. Practically all the waters within easy distance of the Park hotels and camps are kept well stocked with fish, and many of the more remote streams and lakes are even better supplied owing to their being less visited by anglers. Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul Handkerchief Pot 'Nature's Laundry." near Old Faithful Inn Page fifteen Pagr sixteen Page seventeen m Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Mount Everts, from the Painted Terrace* Visitors who do not take their own fishing equipment can supply themselves at any of the hotels or camps upon pay- ment of a small rental. Yellowstone is a paradise for the expert angler. Almost any of a hundred streams can be successfully whipped by an adept, while an amateur can catch lake trout near the Lake Outlet. No license is required. Hundreds of Miles of Trails The advent of motors in Yellowstone National Park reduces the time formerly required to travel between points, and permits the tourist to spend more of his time in viewing individual points of interest. To fill these new needs the National Park Service is developing the trail system as rapidly as time and appropriations permit. Much al- ready has been accomplished, and several hundred miles of trails are now available for the horseback rider and hiker. These trails lead into the remote scenic sections of the Park, out to streams and lakes teeming with fish, far away into the foothills of the Absaroka Range where the wild buffalo browse, and into othei regions of strange geologic formatioi If persons wish to travel on the without the service of a guide, carefi inquiries should be made at the office the superintendent of the nearest ranj station before starting, and the govern- ment topographic map should be prc cured and studied. Saddle horses for hire are available for guests of the hotels and camps at Mam- moth Hot Springs, Upper Geyser Basin, and Grand Canyon. The rates are $3.00 a day; $1.00 first hour, 50 cents for eacl subsequent hour. Guide with horse, $5.00 a day. Fossil Forests The fossil forests cover an extensive area in the northern part of the Park, being especially abundant along the west side of the Lamar River about twenty miles above its junction with the Yellow- stone. The late General H. M. Chittenden, the foremost authority on Yellowstone P a gt eighteen National Park, thus described these petrified trees: "The tourist may see upon the slopes of Specimen Ridge, side by side, the living and the dead, the little conifers of present growth, and the gigantic trunks of unknown species which flourished there eons ago. Some of the petrifactions are perfect. Roots, bark, parts showing incipient decay, worm holes, leaves all are preserved with abso- lute fidelity. The rings of annual growth may be counted, and these indicate for the large trees an age of not less than 500 years. Some of the stumps are fully ten feet in diameter. Here and there the ponderous roots stand imbedded in the rock face of the cliff, where erosion has not yet undermined them. Some hollow trees show interiors beautifully lined with holocrystalline quartz. How long it took each growth to reach maturity; how long it flourished afterward before destruction; and how long the several lava flows sus- pended vegetable growth, are matters largely conjectural." A Veritable Flower Garden The Yellowstone is the botanist's para- dise. The whole Park is a veritable flower garden, its coloring changing with the advancing season. Specimens of the most delicate lowland flowers are found in close proximity to fields of snow. The visitor notes the profusion of color- ing of these natural flower gardens. Authorities estimate that forest growth covers fully 84 per cent, of the entire area of the Park. In these forests are pine, fir, balsam, spruce, cedar, poplar, and aspen, with occasionally a dwarf maple and a thicket of willows. Hotels and Permanent Camps Visitors have the choice of service at hotels or permanent camps. All service is under the supervision of the United States Government and is maintained at a high standard. The hotels are first class. They are electric lighted, steam heated, and other- wise modernly equipped. The permanent camps are in effect Photo by Newman Traveltalks Pulpit Terrace Mammoth Hot Springs one of many peculiar formations found here noted for exquisite beauty of coloring and variety of forms Page nineteen One of the several permanent camps For years camping in comfort has been a feature Yellowstone travel villages of tent-houses set among the pine trees. Each camp consists of central service buildings and scores of cozy sleeping tents. All hotels and permanent camps are situated with special reference to their convenience for sight-seeing. The hotel and the permanent camp at Mammoth Hot Springs are near the colored terraces and Liberty Cap, and across the plaza from historic Fort Yel- lowstone; Old Faithful Inn and Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin are near Old Faithful Geyser and other big geysers. The Grand Canyon Hotel is on the west side of the Grand Canyon, within easy walking distance of the Great Fall and Inspiration Point. The Canyon Camp is on the opposite side of the Grand Canyon, near Artist Point. The Tower Fall Camp faces the mouth of Lamar River, several miles farther north. Old Faithful Inn, at Upper Geyser Basin, the first hotel of its kind, has be- come one of the most popular hotels in the country. It is a striking structure of logs and boulders. The rendezvous 75 feet square, and 92 feet high to the of the roof, with balconies around thi sides. A massive stone chimney, with fireplace at each side and corner, or eight fireplaces in all, is a feature of this rooi It is steam-heated, electric-lighted, pl< antly furnished, and thoroughly hoi like. Old Faithful Inn and also Old Faith Camp are near Old Faithful Geyser; op site, and but a trifle farther away, are t Giantess, Lion, Bee Hive, Lioness, Cubs geysers; down the little valley t Castle Geyser is in plain view, and eruptions of the Grand Geyser, and some extent those of the Giant, Art mesia, and Riverside geysers, can be A particular feature of the Inn is a large searchlight on top of the building, which is operated every night, showing the geysers in play and the bears feeding at the edge of the woods, under electric light. At the outlet of Yellowstone Lak will be found the fine Lake Coloni Hotel, thoroughly modern in every respect. It has an imposing front with it. = Page twenty large columned porches at each end and in the center. The Grand Canyon Hotel is one of the finest of resort hotels. It is 640 feet long by 415 feet wide. A large number of rooms have private baths. 1 1 is equipped with elevators, cold storage and ice-mak- ing plant, and is electric-lighted and steam-heated. The main feature of the hotel is the lounge. This is 1 75 feet long by 84 feet wide; the sides are practically all plate glass. An orchestra is maintained. "Camping" in Yellowstone is a term which is likely to be misleading. These large, permanent summer camps are not "camps" in the usual sense. They afford all of the enjoyable features of camp life without any of its characteristic annoy- ances. The sleeping tents are wain- scoted in wood to a height of four feet, with canvas sides and roof. Each tent has wooden doors with locks and screened windows. The tents are heated by wood-burning stoves and furnished with full-size comfortable beds. The food, wholesome, varied, and well cooked, is served in large dining halls. All permanent camps have large recrea- tion pavilions, with hardwood floors, for dancing and other amusements. At these camps emphasis is placed on out-of-doors entertainment. A feature of the early evening is the camp fire a pyramid of burning, crackling pine logs in the glow of which the guests sing, eat pop corn, and participate in impromptu entertainments. Automobile Transportation The Yellowstone Park Transportation Company, under contract with the Gov- ernment, operates a transportation line from the Park entrances to the various hotels, camps, and points of interest. The standard equipment for these tours consists of high-powered, 10-passenger automobiles, built to fit the necessities of Yellowstone travel; they move on regu- lar schedules. Stop-overs, without extra charge, may be procured from the trans- portation company. There are available 7-passenger autos, with chauffeurs, for special trips. Ar- rangements for these must be made with Photo by Haynes, St. Paul Cleopatra Terrace Mammoth Hot Springs One of the most striking of all these wonderful formations Page twen ty-one Fishing in the Yellowstone River The park lakes and streams are stocked annually with trout the transportation company. The rate is $6.00 an hour. Service charges in the Park are fixed by the National Park Ser- vice, Department of the Interior. The automobile trip through the Park is about 150 miles of constant variety. Each clay's journey unfolds new enjoy- ments. The landscape changes with amazing suddenness. Each wonder spot seems but the prelude to something more inspiring. The Government has spent large sums of money to perfect the roads; they are sprinkled and maintained in good condi- tion. Also within recent years it has expended more than $2,000,000 in various betterments. The roads to points over- looking the Grand Canyon and to the summit of Mount Washburn are very popular. Side Trips From Stop-over Places Many short and inexpensive trips are available from the principal stop-over places in the Park. One of the most delightful of these is across the southern boundary of the Park to the historic Jackson Lake country celebrated as one of the most thrillm high mountain spectacles of Americ Motor stages leave Upper Geyser Basi early in the day, going via the Thum and reaching Jackson Lake early in t afternoon. Returning, stages leave Jac son Lake about noon and arrive at t Thumb in time to connect with the regu lar Park Tour automobiles. The cos of this excursion, to holders of regula Park tickets, is $10 for the round trip The hotel rate at Jackson Lake is $4. a day, and up. It is necessary to spen one night at Jackson Lake. From Upper Geyser Basin a trail tri to Shoshone Geyser Basin and Lake, f one or more days, is a pleasant diversion. Shorter trips are walks or rides to Lone Star Geyser or drives to Shoshone Point. Another pleasant drive from Upper Geyser Basin is down to the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole rivers, to fis for grayling. From the Outlet at Yellowstone Lak several pleasant excursions may be mad< by auto to Sylvan Pass and other ;i ; Page tvtnty-two points, but the lake and boating excur- sions are the primary attractions. One of the most interesting side trips in the Park is made from the Grand Canyon. This trip may be made as a part of the regular park tour by use of the road that passes over the top of Mount Washburn, elevation 10,000 feet. It can be done by automobile, horseback, or afoot. The distance from hotel to summit is eleven miles. One can go by road and return by a well-worn trail through entirely different scenes. The view from Mount Washburn is marvelous, and one obtains, as in no other way, an accurate and connected idea of the Park as a whole. From Mammoth Hot Springs numer- ous trips may be made. Among the most popular are the ascents of Electric and Bunsen peaks and Mount Everts, and around Bunsen Peak (which includes a view of Osprey Fall and Middle Gardi- ner River Canyon). Trouting excursions are many and easily made. From Mammoth Hot Springs or the Grand Canyon a side trip by auto or saddle horse may be made into the north- eastern part of the Park, passing the Buffalo Farm and terminating at the quaint little mining camp of Cooke City. The town is surrounded by some of the most imposing mountains in this section, and radiating from it are numerous paths which can be followed on horseback. One may go up into the Granite Range to Goose Lake, which lies at an altitude of 10,000 feet, by wagon road, a distance of about twelve miles. From the head of Goose Lake a gradual climb of about a mile and a half brings one to the Grasshopper Glacier, so named because of the fact that the remains of grasshoppers are imbedded in the ice, where they were caught by a snowstorm, at some remote time, during a flight across the pass. From the Tower Fall region, an inter- esting side trip by foot or horseback can be made to the petrified trees of the Fossil Forest. Another trail from Cooke City follows the wagon road to Clark's Fork and thence to the southward over Dead In- Copyright by Hoynes, St. Paul The fir.t tight of a real wild bear in his native wood* gives the Yellowstone visitor juat a little thrill Page twcnly-thrtt Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul There are about 400 Bison in the park The "Big Herd" on Lamar River is the largest in the world dian Hill, through Sunlight Basin, to Cody, where the road leads back into the Park over Sylvan Pass to Yellowstone Lake. Gateways to Yellowstone National Park The tourist may enter the Park at Gardiner on the north, Yellowstone sta- tion on the west, or Cody on the east. From the north, on the way to Gardiner, one rides by train through scenic Para- dise Valley and between the walls of Yankee Jim Canyon, alongside the rush- ing torrent of Yellowstone River, and past Electric Peak. From the west the train traverses a fertile agricultural region, then enters the picturesque Warm River Canyon and continues on through forests, natural parks, and wood- ed crests over the Continental Divide to Yellowstone station. From the east it is an auto trip from Cody by way of Shoshone River Canyon and the big Government Dam; thence through the National Forest Reserve, over Absoraka Range, and through Sylvan Pass. When to go to the Park Season 1919 The first date autoi biles will start from either Gardin< Yellowstone or Cody, will be June 2( and the last date automobiles will stai from these gateways to make a complet tour of the Park will be September I The last date automobiles will reach ai of the gateways, after tour of the Parl will be September 1 9. The Park season is a time of year when a sojourn among the moui tains is most healthful and pleasurable While in the early part of the summe there is more snow on the mountaii and the streams carry more wat< August and September are delightfi months during which to make the toui There is no time when there is the least possibility of the streams running dry or of the waterfalls disappearing; tl geysers play equally well, in Septeml or in June, and the autumnal hues trees and foliage lend an apprecial beauty to the scene. twenty -four How to Reach the Park Automobiles of the Yellowstone Park Transportation Company connect with railroads at Gardiner. Mont., on the north. Yellowstone station. Mont., on the west, and Cody. Wyo.. on the east. these three being the principal gateways to the Park. Yellowstone National Park at a Destination: During the Park season round-trip excursion tickets at re- duced fares are sold at practically all stations in the United States and Canada, to Gardiner. Yellowstone station and Cody, as destinations. From the Middle West. East, and South, round-trip excursion tickets may be purchased for transportation on going trip to any of the three Yellowstone National Park gateways, (Gardiner. Yellow- stone station, Cody), and for transportation on the return trip from the same or any other gateway, thus affording passengers privilege of entering the Park at one entrance and leaving it at the same point or any one of the other entrances. From many sections trips may be planned to include visits to two or more of the following national parks in the Rocky Mountain region: Yellowstone. Glacier. Rocky Mountain, and Mesa Verde. Coupons covering automobile transportation and accommodations at the hotels or permanent camps for the "five-day" tour of the Park may be included in railroad tickets at proper additional charges, which are the same as those in effect at the Park. The National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, however, recommends to the traveling public that stop-overs of as long duration as practicable be planned at points within the Park; that Yellowstone National Park be regarded not alone as a region which may be glimpsed on a hurried trip of a few days, but also as a vacation playground of boundless opportunities for rest and recreation. Yellowstone National Park as a side-trip Pass- engers wishing to visit Yellowstone National Park as a side-trip in connection with journeys to other destinations will find stop-over privileges available and may make side-trips to the Park from Livingston, Mont.. Pocatello Ida.. Ogden. Utah. Salt Lake City. Utah, or Frannie. Wyo.. which are stop-over points on both one-way and round-trip tickets, or from Billings, Mont., or Buttc. Mont., which are stop-over points on round-trip tickets. Cost of the Park "Five-Day" Tour from Gardiner, Yellowstone or Cody In. In. In, i- M..'.,r I in-Ill, lin.- Motor TrniiMiKirltttniii TrHii*i><>rliilii>n HIM! < Inly M>-il!" lili.l Logman M.-iil- ...n-l Atlloti-ln AtCampn Ixxiuiin Kilrn For adults, and children 12 years old and over. . $52 00 $4300 $2500 For children 8 years old and under 12 years.. .. 39.50 21.50 1250 For children 5 years old and under 8 years 2600 21.50 12.50 The above charges are not subject to war revenue tax. Longer time than is provided by the regular five-day tour may be spent at the various stop-over points, if desired. For such additional time, meals and lodging are charged for at the rate of $6.00 a day at the hotels and $4.00 a day. or $24.00 a week and up, at the camps. Childrens' tickets for hotel or camp accommodations are sold in Park only. Tickets, including meals and lodging in the Park, entitle holders to accommodations to the value of $6.00 a day at hotels, American plan. Rates for especially well located rooms (including rooms with bath) $7.00 to $10.00 a day, American plan. Persons desiring such accommodations pay the difference at each hotel. General Information Detailed information about fares or train service to and from Yellowstone National Park as well as all other. National Parks may be obtained from any Railroad ticket agent, or by writing to Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines. 646 Transportation Building, Chicago. 111. Antelope are much less numerous than the Elk and Deer in the Park, yet about 350 of these beautiful creatures have teen seen in one day Page twent \ - Copyright by Haynes, St. Paul A novel bit of roadway at Sylvan Pass Women Tourists Fully sixty per cent of the park visitors are women and a large percentage of them travel unescorted. There are competent women attendants at the hotels and camps whose special duty is to look after the welfare of women and see that they are made comfortable and that their trips are enjoyable ones. Mail and Telegrams Mail and telegrams should be addressed to the gateway at which the addressee will leave the park, as follows: At Gardiner, Montana, or Yellowstone station, Idaho, in care of the Yellowstone Hotel Company or Yellowstone Camping Company (whichever patronized); at Cody, Wyoming, in care of Yellowstone Park Transportation Co. What to Wear Warm clothing should be worn, and one should be prepared for the sudden changes of temperature common at an altitude of 7,500 feet. Men should have medium weight overcoats and sweaters, and women should have coats, jackets or sweaters. Linen dusters are essential; they may be purchased in the Park. Stout shoes should be worn, as they are best suited for walking about the geysers and terraces, and for mountain use. Tinted glasses and serviceable gloves should be a part of the traveler's outfit, and a pair of field or opera glasses will be found useful. Baggage The Yellowstone Park Transportation Company will carry free not to exceed twenty-five pounds of hand baggage for each passenger. Trunks cannot be transported in the automobiles. Tourists contemplating a prolonged trip through the Park can make arrangements with representatives of the Transportation Company at any of the gateways for the transportation of trunks. Storage charges for baggage will be waived by the interested railroads at Livingston. Gardiner. Yellowstone station. Pocatello, Idaho Falls. Ogden. Salt Lake City. Cody. Frannie or Billings, or at Butte. for actual length of time consumed by passengers in making the Park trip Baggage may be checked to station via which passeng* enter the Park, i. e., Gardiner, Yellowstone or Cc Passengers entering the Park via one station and leaving another station will find certain regulations for free checl of baggage to station via which they leave the Park. Bring Your Camera Nowhere will you find greater opportunities to good use of your camera than in Yellowstone. Huntir with gun is prohibited, but visitors are allowed to "si as often as they desire with cameras and the field unlimited. Photographic supplies can be obtained at hotels and camps. Bath House A bathing pool is maintained at Upper Geyser Rates, 50 cents in large pool; $1.00 in private pool. Medical Facilities A resident physician is stationed at Mammoth Springs, and each hotel and camp has a trained nur and a dispensary. Park Administration Yellowstone National Park is under the jurisdiction the Director. National Park Service. Department of Interior. Washington. D. C. The Park Superintendent located at Mammoth Hot Springs. Yellowstone Natic Park. Wyo. Personally Conducted Saddle and Pack Trips the Beaten Paths A most enjoyable way of seeing Yellowstone National Park is to join an all-expense horseback camping party conducted by experienced guides authorized by the Gov- ernment to personally escort such excursions. The names and addresses of the licensees and information concerning these "Roughing-it-in- trips. may be obtained from National Park Servic Department of the Interior. Washington. D. C.; or a; to Manager. Bureau of Service, National Parks and Me ments. or Travel Bureau Western Lines. 646 Transport tion Building. Chicago. 111. P. a ge twenty-six Time of Departure and Arrival of the Auto- mobiles at Gardiner, Yellowstone and Cody railroad stations, for the regular "five-day" tour. In and Out Via Gardiner Leave Gardiner 11.30 a.m., via Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon, and Tower Falls; arriving Gardiner 7.00 p. m., fifth day. Mammoth Mot Springs From Gardiner St set I ... i Tails Upper (U\ si In Gardiner, Out Cody Leave Gardiner, 11.30 a.m., via Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, and Grand Canyon, (side trip to Dunraven Pass) arriving Cody 6.00 p.m., fifth day. Upper Geyser Basin In Gardiner, Out Yellowstone Leave Gardiner 1 1 .30 a.m., via Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin. Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon, (side trip to Dunraven Pass) arriving Yellowstone 5.30 p.m., fifth day. Mammoth Hot Springs Norris Geyser From Gardiner Stu. Dunraven Pans Grand Canyon Upper Geyser Ba To Cody Sta. Haynes, St. Paul Entering the Park through the canyon of the Shoshone River Page tw ent y -s even Photo by Newman Traveltalks Mt. Moran and Jackson Lake Awe-inspiring in their grandeur and beauty In Yellowstone, Out Yellowstone Leave Yellowstone, 9.00 a.m., via Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon, Tower Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, arriving Yellowstone 5.30 p.m., fifth day. In Yellowstone, Out Cody Leave Yellowstone, 9.00 a.m., via Upper Geyj Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon, To\ Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyi Basin, and Grand Canyon, arriving Cody 6. p.m., fifth day. Mammoth Hot Springs Mammoth Hot Springs Tower Falls Dunraven Pass rand Canyon Yellowstone Lake Tower Falls Dunraven Pass Grand Canyon Upper Geyser Basin In Yellowstone, Out Gardiner Leave Yellowstone, 9.00 a.m., via Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Grand Canyon, Tower Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs, arriving Gardiner 7.00 p.m., fifth day. To Cody Sta. Yellowstone Lake Upper Geyser .Basin In Cody, Out Cody Leave Cody, 8.00 a.m., via Grand Cany< Tower Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs, Noi Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstt Lake, and Grand Canyon, arriving Cody 6.( p.m., fifth day. To Gardiner Sta. Mammoth Hot Spring Mammoth Hot Springs Norris Geyser Busln Tower Fulls From 'Yellowttone -^^\ Upper Geyser Basin Page twenty-eight Upper Geyuer Basin Norris Geyser Basin bubbles and hisses and steams like a great manufacturing district In Cody, Out Yellowstone In Cody, Out Gardiner Leave Cody, 8.00 a.m., via Grand Canyon, Norris Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake. Grand Canyon, Tower Falls. Leave Cod y. 8 - a - m - via Grand Canyon. and Mammoth Hot Springs, arriving Gardiner Tower Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris 7.00 p.m., fifth day. Mammoth Hot Springs Geyser Basin, and Upper Geyser Basin, arriving Yellowstone 5.30 p.m., fifth day. .Mammoth Hot Springs , Tower Falls Tower Palls Photo by Haynes, St. Paul Jackson Lake and the Teton Range are near the southern entrance to the Park, and are in the proposed new addition Page twenl y-nine Touring the Park on horseback is becoming more and more popular, because of the development of several hundred miles of trails U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be made by money order or in cash: Geological History of Yellowstone National Park, by Ar- nold Hague, 24 pages, 10 illustrations, 10 cents. Geysers, by Walter Harvey Weed. 32 pages. 23 illustra- tions, 10 cents. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone National Park, by F. H. Knowlton. 32 pages. 15 illustrations. 10 cents. Fishes of the Yellowstone National Park, by W. C. Kendall 28 pages, 1 7 illustrations. 5 cents. Panoramic view of Yellowstone National Park; 18 by 21 inches, 25 cents. The National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 Illustrations descriptive of nine national parks. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. The following may be obtained from the Director of the Geological Survey, Washington, D. C., at price given. Map of Yellowstone National Park. 32 by 36 inches. 25 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C., or by personal application to the office of the superintendent of the Park: Circular of general information regarding Yellowstone National Park. Map showing location of National Parks and Monur and railroad routes thereto. Glimpses of Our National Parks, 48 pages illustrated. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines; 646 Transportal Building, Chicago, Illinois. Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park, Oregon Glacier National Park, Montana Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado Mount Rainier National Park, Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin, Minnesota, Upper Michi Iowa and Illinois, Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. Montana, Yosemite National Park, California Zion National Monument. Utah Page thirty THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS The National Parks at a Glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Beaumont, Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. j Lincoln. Neb .... Bremerton. Wash 224 Front St. Little Rock. Ark . Butte. Mont 2 N. Main St. Long Beach. Cal . L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles, Cal Milwaukee, Wis. Chicago. Ill 1 75 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex 112-114 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth. Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso. Tex .... Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth. Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno, Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston. Tex . .21st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston. Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City. Mo. 21 5 S. Broadway 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn. 202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal.. 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal ........ 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb .......... 1416 Dodge St. Peoria, 111 . . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland. Ore. .3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo. Colo. .. .401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo ........ 505 Francis St. 104 N. 13th St. I St. Paul, Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. .202 W. 2d St.. Sacramento, Cal 801 K St. Salt Lake City. Utah. Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Texas. 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco, Cal. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal. 1 st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport, La. . Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 5 10 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma, Wash. ..1117-19 Pacific Ave. Waco, Texas. . . .6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal L. A. & S. L. Station Ry. Ex. Bldg. . 7th and Walnut Sts. St. Louis Mo... . 318-328 N. Broadway Winnipeg, Man. . . . . 226 Portage Ave. East Annapolis. Md. . . . . 54 Maryland Ave. Detroit. Mich.. . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Philadelphia. Pa. ..1539 Chestnut St. Atlantic City. N. J...1301 Pacific Ave. Evansville. Ind. . .L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Pittsburgh, Pa . . . . . . .Arcade Building Baltimore, Md . . .B. &0. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Boston, Mass . . . Brooklyn. N. Y . Buffalo. N. Y. M Cincinnati, Ohio . 67 Franklin St. 336 Fulton St. ain and Division Sts. . 6th and Main Sts. Indianapolis. Ind. 1 1 2- 1 4 English Block Newark. N. J. Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway Rochester. N. Y. . Syracuse, N. Y . . . Toledo. Ohio 20 State St. . . . University Block . . 320 Madison Ave. Cleveland. Ohio. . . 1004 Prospect Ave. New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. Washington. D. C . . .1229 FSt. N. W. Columbus, Ohio . 70 East Gay St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32d St. Williamsport. Pa. . . .4th and Pine Sts. Dayton. Ohio . . . ....19S. LudlowSt. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. Wilmington. Del. 905 Market St. South Asheville. N. C. 14 S Polk Square Knoxville, Tenn 600 Gay St. Paducah Ky 430 Broadway Atlanta, Ga 74 Peachtree St. Lexington, Ky Union Station Pensacola, Fla . . . . . . San Carlos Hotel Augusta. Ga .... .......811 Broad St. Louisville, Ky .... 4th and Market Sts. Raleigh. N. C. .. . .305 LaFayette St. Birmingham, Ala 2010 1st Ave. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Richmond. Va . . . 830 E. Main St. Charleston. S. C Charleston Hotel Memphis, Tenn 60 N. N'lain St. Savannah, Ga .... 37 Bull St Charlotte. N. C. . . 22 S. Tryon St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Sheffield .Ala Sheffield Hotel Chattanooga. Tenn. . . .817 Market St. Columbia, S. C Arcade Building Jacksonville. Fla . . . .38 W. Bay St. Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville. Tenn. .Independent Life Bldg New Orleans. La St. Charles Hotel Tampa, Fla Vicksburg, Miss. . Winston-Salem, N ... .Hillsboro Hotel 1319 Washington St. . C. 236 N. Main St. For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service. National Parks and Monuments: or Travel Bureau Western Lines; 646 Transportation Bldg., Chicago. Page thirty-one Season 1919 RAND MCNALLV A. Co. CHICAOQ Copyright by A . Schlechten The lower falls of the Ycllowston-. Height 308 feet In its superb setting it m a rnatvel of beauty YOSEMITE National Par MIA. UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION N AT I O N A L IHIIIIIII8llfflliailillBft{>l8^ Glacier Point. Yosemite Valley. The Half Dome in background An Appreciation of Yosemite National Park By HARRIET MONROE, Editor of "Poetry, a Magazine of Verse" Wriilrn Especially for the United Stales Railroad Admiiiisiniiinii WICE and each time through an entire July -I have tramped with the California Sierra Club through the grandest areas of the Yosemite National Park. I have camped in the Valley, in Tuolumne Meadows, and in the lost Hetch-Hetchy sleeping to the sound of rushing waters with mountains towering around me. I have crossed Vogelsang Pass when the mountain hemlocks were just slipping off their wet mantles of snow; I have descended the formidable Tuolumne Canyon past the third fall ; and under Mount Dana I have looked down over the red rocks of Bloody Canyon to Lake Mono, lying incredibly blue among the pink and lilac craters of dead volcanoes. My memories of this prismatically shattered earth are sharp in details of beauty, but all of them rise against white granite and falling waters. Never anywhere else can there be mountains so silver-white El Capitan shouldering the sky, Cloud's Rest and the two great Domes giving back the sun, and Ritter, Lyell and Dana, fierce and jagged, guarding their inscrutable heights. And through the crevices of this gleaming granite run everywhere crystal streams streams mad with joy that foam as they fly, and shout as they take enormous leaps over stark precipices. All kinds of falling waters the delicate cascades of Illilouette; the wind-blown tulle of Bridal Veil; Nevada, lacy, white-fingered, taking her 600-foot leap like a step in a dance; Vernal, broad-shouldered, strong-bodied, massive, as he jumps like an athlete; and, most wonder- ful of all, Yosemite, that Upper Yosemite Fall whose leap is 1 ,500 feet a tall white living figure against the formidable cliff, a figure moving and breathing, tossing the spray from his eyes, shining tall and straight there like a young Greek god. Everywhere waters falling over and under and into white granite, falling in ribbons and rivers and cataracts, ringing golden bells, booming great guns, spraying the little flowers and the giant sequoias as they pass. Everywhere splendor a world gorgeous, exultant, full of color and motion, existing for itself, for its own joy, and taking man on suffer- ance, as it were, if he will accept its terms and be free of soul. Page three I I To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Yosemite National Park N the rock-ribbed heights of the Sierra Nevada in Cali- fornia lies the Yosemite National Park, 4,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level and covering an area of 719,622 acres. It embraces so much in Nature that is majestic and sublime, one feels that in the "great order of things" this realm of enchantment was created solely for the purpose to which it is today de- voted the recreation and enjoyment of mankind. Among our National Parks, Yosemite is especially favored in having, close to its two entrances, features that are singularly attractive. One is the Yos- emite Valley, just within the Parks' southwestern boundary; the other, the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, directly with- in the southern boundary of the Park. In either case Yosemite greets the visi- tor with a lavish display of its natural gifts. Yosemite Valley is only a mile wide by seven miles long, its portal a scant half-mile wide, but never was the vesti- bule to a palace decked in fashion more alluring. The revelation of its beauties comes so suddenly, so many unexpected sights are disclosed in so limited an en- closure, that visitors are amazed and well may wonder if anything more en- trancing can lie beyond. And so with the Mariposa Grove. From forests of stately pines one suddenly enters amoni trees of an immensity bewildering trees that in height, girth and diameter exceed anything hitherto dreamed of. And should the visitor go no farthe than either of these entrances to tl Park, he will be repaid a hundred-fol< but beyond the narrow cliff-rimme< confines of this valley of witchery, am through the openings of this magic grove, there stretches an immense regioi that includes, in John Muir's words: "The headwaters of the Tuolumm and Merced rivers, two of the m< songful streams in the world; innumei able lakes and waterfalls and smootl silky lawns; the noblest forests, th< loftiest granite domes, the deepest ic< sculptured canyons, the brightest cry* talline pavements, and snowy moui tains soaring into the sky twelve an< thirteen thousand feet, arrayed in oj ranks and spiry pinnacled groups pai tially separated by tremendous canyoi and amphitheaters; gardens on theii sunny brows, avalanches thundering down their long white slopes, cataracl roaring gray and foaming in the crooked, rugged gorges, and glaciers, in theii shadowy recesses, working in silence slowly completing their sculptures; new- born lakes at their feet, blue and greei free or encumbered with drifting ice bergs like miniature Arctic Oceans shining, sparkling, calm as stars." Page four The Yosemite Valley The Yosemite Valley was discovered to the world in 1851 by Captain John Doling, while pursuing hostile Indians with a detachment of mounted volun- teers. The Indians called it the Heart of the Sky Mountain, or Ahwanee, "the deep grass valley." Later the name Yo Semite was given to the valley, its meaning being the "great grizzly bear," and subsequently, when the National Park was established, this famous name was retained. In spectacular waterfalls and sheer cliffs Yosemite Valley is supreme. No- where else have high mountain streams found such varied and beautiful courses to fling their waters over such lofty cliffs and unite in a valley river. In spring, from beneath the great snow- mantle of the High Sierra, pour the ice waters into the cups of the Yosemite; and all summer, though in lessening volume, these great reservoirs moun- tain lakes of crystal continue to feed the streams of the Park. All of the towering rock-masses of Yosemite are remarkable. There are peaks grouped strangely and peaks no less strangely isolated. There are needle- pointed pinnacles and smooth domes whose tops are perfect hemispheres. Wild Flowers, Shrubs and Ferns The floor of the valley is level meadow- land, its grass shining like green satin, and through it winds the Merced River. Over the stream bend alder, willow, flowering dogwood, balm-of-Gilead, and other water-loving trees, and inter- spersed with the emerald verdure of the glades are groves of pine and groups of stately black oak. Many and bright are the wild flowers of Yosemite, and with the shrubs will be counted the red- branched manzanita, the chinquapin, the beautiful California lilac, violets, wild roses, the mariposa lily, goldcup oak, the brilliant snow plant and their kind. In cool recesses of the forest, by river banks and in rock-seams, grow numerous beautiful species of ferns. Thus near the river it is pastoral and peaceful; and yet only a few rods away, at the foot of a tumultuous cataract, you may hear the noise of rushing waters hurled from the brink of precipitous cliffs. The First Sight of Yosemite Its Striking Features The first view of Yosemite Valley, a great gash in the heart of the mountains, is a sight to inspire reverence. From the deep shadows of the pines, a silence- compelling vista bursts upon the eye. Page five Page six The Three Brothers Mighty rock sentinels guard the en- trance and beyond them towering cliffs and verdant valley swim in a glorious light On the south wall shimmers the Bridal Veil Falls. The water slips over the great granite wall, white and ethereal. It seems to drop its tenuous mist into the very tree tops. The highest Euro- pean fall is that of the Staubbach in Switzerland, but even Bridal Veil not half the height of Yosemite Falls is higher, leaps out of a smoother channel, has greater volume of water and is seen in the midst of loftier precipices. The stream is full thirty feet wide, and falls first a distance of 620 feet, then pauses an instant and drops a perpendicular distance of 320 feet. But from the chief points of view it seems to make only one plunge and the effect is that of an unbroken descent of over nine hundred feet. Often the wind swings the great column of water from the face of the cliff and waves it like a scarf or veil. At sunset, rainbows with an indescrib- able radiance bejewel its foam. Around the shoulder behind which Bridal Veil Creek makes its way to the brink, tower the Cathedral Rocks. They get their name from a resemblance to the Duomo at Florence, and rise 2,591 feet above the valley floor. Just be- yond them are seen the Cathedral Spires, one solitary shaft of granite uplifting for more than seven hundred feet. Across the narrow valley, and nearly opposite, is El Capitan a rock more than twice as great as Gibraltar. It rises 3,604 feet, with an apparently ver- tical front. Thrust out like a buttress, it presents to the vision an area of more than four hundred acres of naked gran- ite. Sublime and steadfast it stands, a veritable "Rock of Ages." The bulk of El Capitan is so stupendous that it can be seen from a vantage ground sixty miles distant. Eagle Peak, in the Three Brothers group, lies a little beyond El Capitan. Its height is 3,813 feet. Sentinel Rock faces the Three Brothers from the south wall, a splintered granite spire, very slender, and nearly perpendicular for about 1,500 feet below its apex, its total height being 3,059 feet. Back of this natural and majestic monument stands Sentinel Dome, its storm-worn top 4,157 feet above the valley. Almost at the base of Sentinel Rock is Yosemite Village, the tourist center of the Valley, where the Sentinel Hotel, the post-office, a few shops and studios are grouped, directly opposite Yosemite Falls. Across the river to the west is Yosemite Camp. Camp Curry is a mile Page seven In the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia* Page eight Several good motor roads lead into the Valley east of the village, on the road to the Happy Isles and at the base of Glacier Point. Details of resorts and accom- modations in the Park will be found on later pages. The greatest cataract in all the Sierra is Yosemite Falls. This vast volume of foaming water plunges 2,350 feet nearly half a mile. In reality it is not one fall, but three. The first is 1,430 feet straight down. Then comes a series of cascades 600 feet, and a final leap of 320 feet. The stream is about thirty-five feet wide and when its waters are at flood the reverberations can be heard all over the valley. This wide- flung fall of wind-tossed water is Yose- mite's sublimest feature. Across the valley the massive shoulder of Glacier Point is thrust out from the south wall, and, almost opposite, on the north, stands Yosemite Point, flanked on the east by Indian Canyon, once used by the Indians as exit or entrance for Yosemite. The Royal Arches are near the head of the valley, in the vast vertical wall whose summit is North Dome. The arches are recessed curves in the granite front, very impressive because of their size, and made by ice-action. Much of the rock is formed in layers like the structure of an onion, the arches being the broken edges of these layers. Wash- ington Column is the angle of the cliff at this point a tower completing the mas- sive wall at the very head of Yosemite. Over against it, but looking down the valley, stands the highest rock of all the region the great South Dome, or Half Dome, as it is most often called. It is 8,852 feet above sea level, or 4,892 feet above the floor. Its massive front is fractured vertically for about two thou- sand feet, and the face turned outward is polished by wind and storm a moun- tain apparently cleft in the center as by some mighty giant's scimitar. The side of the Half Dome toward the southwest has the curve of a great helmet, so smooth and precipitous as almost to defy the climber. On its overhanging rock, however, the most venturesome have stood. From hotels and camps, Half Dome is often seen raising its head above the clouds. To the northeast from here opens Tenaya Canyon. Mirror Lake, an ex- pansion of Tenaya Creek and lying be- tween the North and Half Dome, is at the entrance. When the sun creeps over the great flank of the Half Dome, the whole landscape is wonderfully re- produced in this miraculous mirror, the reflection of the sunrise being an unusual feature. But sunrise over these colossal cliffs is much later than the sunrise at lower levels. Page nine Viev from Panorama Point along the Trail to Glacier Point. Showing the Half Dome. Liberty Cap. Vernal Falls and Clouds' Rest P a e ten The Fallen Monarch in the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees The Mariposa Big Tree Grove Just within the southern boundary of the Park, and reached from the Sentinel Hotel and camps in the valley by a de- lightful thirty-five mile auto drive through timbered slopes and canyons, and also direct from Merced by auto over the Wawona Road, lies the Mariposa Big Tree Grove. Here stand over six hundred fine specimens of the Sequoia Washmgtoniana, the famous Big Trees which today grow only in the Sierra of California. These are the oldest living things. On some matured specimens, fallen or partly burned thus exposing their annual wood rings John Muir counted upward of 4,000 years of growth. The Mariposa Grove is the greatest grove of these giant trees out- side of the Sequoia National Park, and contains the third largest tree in the world, and also the world's tallest tree. This is the Mark Twain, 331 feet in height with near-by neighbors not many feet lower. Its largest tree is the Griz- zly Giant, 93 feet in girth at its base, 29.6 feet in diameter, and 204 feet in height. The first branch, 125 feet from the ground, is six feet in diameter -a tree itself. Twenty-two people can barely encompass its girth, touching finger tips. Eighteen horses, head to tail, just circle its base. This sequoia was considered by John Muir a mature tree, probably verging on old age; and there it stands today surrounded by its fellows of varying ages, many as old as itself trees that were in their prime before the dawn of Christianity, and are still ripening their cones and regularly shedding their tiny seeds year after year. The Lafayette and Washington trees are only three or four inches less in diameter than the Grizzly Giant; the Columbia tree is 294 feet in height, the Nevada is 278, while the Forest Queen- the shortest of 27 other notable named trees is 219 feet in height, 17 feet in diameter, and 53 feet in girth, at base. The Wawona, which is 227 feet in height, has for years had an archway in its trunk, through which the auto road passes; its vitality is unimpaired in spite of this 26-foot passage cut into its heart. The Fallen Giant, which has been lying in the grove for centuries, its firm wood still sound, forms a roadway upon which a six-horse coach, loaded with passengers, has many times been driven. These facts may give some idea of the immen- sity of these trees. Their true appreci- ation is difficult; but if the Grizzly Giant was sawed into inch boards, the tree would box the greatest steamship ever built, with enough boards left over to box a flock of submarines. The beauty Page eleven Good trails and pleasant horseback parties add to Yosemite's delight and symmetry of these giant conifers is no less striking than their size; their bark is soft and fibrous, and deeply fluted, its bright cinnamon and purple giving a rich coloring to their stately columns. Just beyond the southwest corner of the Park, six miles from the Mariposa Grove, is the comfortable Hotel Wawona, providing good service. The auto trip from the Valley to the Mariposa Grove and return takes a full day. Within the park boundaries are also two smaller sequoia groves, the Merced Grove, six miles north, and the Tuolumne Grove, fifteen miles north from El Portal, by auto road. The Trails to Glacier Point and Other Vantage Points From the Sentinel Hotel the road leads to Happy Isles, where the Merced races in joyous frolic. From here starts the "long trail" -twelve miles to Glacier Point. It winds along the bottom of a wild canyon hemmed in by titanic walls. Panorama Point, 4,000 feet above the river on the south side, is almost perpendicular, and the highest continuous wall of Yosemite. Its face is traced by miniature streams of trick- ling water and painted by purple lichen, and per- haps nowhere else do you feel so deeply the geological impressiveness of the region. From a bridge over the river, half a mile farther, you catch a glimpse of Vernal Falls, gloriously re- splendent in the dark canyon. The river is nearly eighty feet wide and falls 317 feet from granite ledge to fern-hung glen. The sparkling waters drop like an endless stream of shooting stars. The spray is driven outward like smoke. and every sprig of plant and grass, moss ar fern, is kept vividly green by this incessant baj tism. The trail leads to the top of the Fall. A little beyond within a mile is Nevada Falls, where the same stream plunges over precipice 594 feet high, the great snowy torrent glancing from sloping rock about midway in compound curve, over cliffs of polished granil Under the bald dome of lofty Liberty Cap, wil Mount Broderick at its back and the Half Doi near by, Nevada Falls plunges into its abyss, tl whole volume of the crystal Merced shattei into a shower of shining jewels, while below- where the river gathers its forces banners rainbow-tinted spray fly wide upon the wind. The horse trail leads up the timbered side of the gorge to the top of Vernal Falls, wher is a natural parapet of granite from which watch the river railing in a green and azure mantle over the square-cut edge. The trail thence mounts to the top of Nevada Falls wh< another guarded vantage point, directly on tl brink, shows the swiftly gliding stream curvii and breaking in foam in its descent. Whei else can two such waterfalls be so closely fol- lowed from river-bed to rim, with their spraj moistening the air around you? A few yar< beyond the edge of Nevada Falls, the river is crossed by a low bridge, built on granite out- croppings. From here the trail turns west along the southern side of the canyon, passing over the ridge of Panorama Point, and beneath stately pines enters the picture-gorge of Illilouette Creek, its falls splashing 370 feet in festoons of silver spray. Descending to the stream, another bridge is crossed and the trail turns sharply north, zig-zagging up the heavily timbered southern side of Glacier Point to its summit. The marvelous view at every turn grows wid< in its scope. The new and attractive Glaci< Point Hotel stands in a grove of pine that covei the mountain top. Page twelve Liberty Cap and Nevada Falls The View from Glacier Point Glacier Point is the most accessible and per- haps the greatest vantage point in Yosemite. Within a hundred yards of the hotel are the projecting rocks which mark the Point. It is 3,234 feet from their tops to the valley floor. A pebble dropped will touch nothing until it strikes the talus, 3,000 feet below. The largest buildings are dwarfed to cottages, camps are white specks, lofty pines are mere shrubs, men and horses seem dots on the valley floor. The view is sublime. Sharp brinks and precipices plunge into the val- ley on one side; into the gorge of the Illilouette on the other. Looking down the valley to the left, Eagle Peak juts above the rim, and Yose- mite Falls gleams in full light; opposite are the Royal Arches and the North Dome, and beyond them the Basket Dome; Mirror Lake is a splash of brightness at the entrance to the Tenaya Can- yon, which can be traced to the northeast through its steep walls. The great face of the Half Dome, with the curve of its splendid helmet in unbroken view, towers above; beyond, against the sky, rises the bare granite of Cloud's Rest. To the right is seen majestic Liberty Cap, while in the distance rears the white peak of the Obelisk, with the snowy range of Mounts Starr King, Lyell, Clark and Dana, 13,000 feet above the sea, seeming to swim in the azure. Below you, Vernal and Nevada Falls sparkle in their gorge of green. The view beyond the valley to the north embraces snow-capped Hoffman Peak, Tuolumne Peak and Colby Mountain and reaches beyond the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and the Hetch-Hetchy Valley a remarkable region of the Park recently opened by roads and trails, and later described. Sentinel Dome, a mile and a half south, rises over Glacier Point a thousand feet, and can be climbed without difficulty. From its summit the San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Range, nearly a hundred miles distant, are distinctly seen. The Pohono trail from Glacier Point leads to The Fissures, on the rim, clefts in the rock that reach down hundreds of feet, one being only four feet across. From Glacier Point return can be made by the short trail, four and a half miles to the valley floor. It is a steep and continuous zig-zag. At Union Point, 2,350 feet above the valley, stop is made for a rest. Just below stands Agassiz Column, like a balanced rock, a shaft of granite eighty-five feet in height. Its corroded base seems too frail to support its great bulk. In addition to the two trails described. Glacier Point is reached by auto-stages over the Wawona Road to Chinquapin, there turning east and run- ning fourteen miles to the Glacier Point Hotel. There is also a newly constructed foot trail leading from the valley at the base of Glacier Point, on a natural ledge diagonally across the face of the cliff to the top. While this trail is steep, it is well built and safe and is less than two miles in length. Trail Trips to Top of Yosemite Falls, Eagle Peak and El Capitan Among other horse and foot trails from the valley are those to the rim at Yosemite Point, above Yosemite Falls. One can climb 500 feet below to the very lip of the falls and look down into the peaceful valley across the plunging waters that shatter the air with their roar. Far- ther along, the trail reaches Eagle Peak. 3,81 3 feet above the floor, where a splendid view is had; and the trip can be continued to the crest of El Capitan. Artist's Point and Inspiration Point along the Wawona auto road to the Mariposa Big Tree Grove are among the outlooks affording vistas that are never forgotten. Page thirteen , ^^ Nevada Fall* fourteen m Polly Dome on the Tioga Road Its polished sides glint in the sun The Tioga Road and Tenaya Lake Region The completion of the Tioga Road crossing the Park from east to west, and connecting with roads from Yosemite Valley, offers to Park visitors a new auto drive through a mountain- top paradise. Crossing the South Fork of the Tuolumne close to the western border, the Tioga Road runs east near the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, and continues toward Harden Lake, whence it turns south and skirts Mount Hoffman, 10,921 feet, passing along the shore of Tenaya Lake and winding upward amidst moun- tain heights of striking formation. At Tenaya Lake Lodge there is good accommodation and service. Tuolumne Peak rises to the north, Cathedral Peak to the south, and beyond, through a wilderness of timbered granite slopes, the road mounts to the Sierra's rim at Tioga Pass, 9,941 feet, with Dana Mountain, 13,050 feet above sea level, towering 3,000 feet higher than the road. The view to the east looks down the precipitous wall of the Sierra into Owens Valley, lying like an emerald 5,741 feet below, while northward gleams Mono Lake in turquoise blue. Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne Directly north of the Tioga Road and fifteen miles from the rim of Yosemite Valley, lies the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, another of Yosemite's marvels. This great spectacle, with the Hetch-Hetchy Valley joining it on the west, and the miles of lake-dotted, stream-woven slopes of the gorged Sierra still farther north, are now open to the tourist by the improvement of horse trails connecting with those leading from the valley by way of Tenaya Lake, through Soda Springs and other points on the Tioga Road. It is a section hitherto little known and seldom explored by any but the con- firmed mountain-lovers of the Pacific Coast, the Sierra Club having camped throughout this wide domain during fifteen years of summer out- ings. Another trail leaves the Tioga Road at the Yosemite Creek bridge and covers eight remarkable scenic miles to the Ten Lakes Basin, on the south rim of the Tuolumne Canyon. This region, and that leading to the crest of the range along the eastern boundaries of the Park, is the realm of the camper in the forest, whose outing may last two weeks or a month or more. Saddle horses and pack animals follow winding trails by icy streams that have their birth in everlasting snows and flow westward through a sea of peaks, resting by the way in snow-bordered lakes, romping through luxuriant glades, rushing over rocky heights and swinging in and out of the shadows of mighty mountains. It is a summerland of sunshine where it seldom rains. "It is the heart of High Sierra," writes John Muir, "8,500 to 9,000 feet above the level of the sea. The gray, picturesque Cathedral Range bounds it on the south; a similar range or spur, the highest peak of which is Mount Conness. on the north; the noble Mount Dana. Gibbs, Mam- moth, Lyell, McClure, and others on the axis of the range, on the east; a heaving, billowy crowd of glacier-polished rocks and Mount Hoffman on the west. Down through the open, sunny meadow levels of the valley flows the Tuolumne River, fresh and cool from its many glacial foun- tains, the highest of which are the glaciers that lie on the north sides of Mount Lyell and Mount McClure." Of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Muir wrote: "It is the cascades or sloping falls on the main river that are the crowning glory of the canyon, and these, in volume, extent, and var- iety, surpass those of any other canyon in the Sierra. The most showy and interesting of them are mostly in the upper part of the canyon above P a He fifteen Yosemite Valley from Inspiration Point. Bridal Veil Falls on right. Page sixteen the Tioga Road. Mirror Lake, showing reflection of the Half Dome. Page seventeen / Price Peak / 10916 ft. ^ >># /y> //' ^^t^^JX/^T.K ^f,../'' J o ;^' TuoLuw y^/; 5X ?7"~^^ ii -^^ :#'%-,' , . X^fSt. .it*. C^TO . / 1 /Tioga Pass * ' 9941 II Lake fuolumn 10875 ft..= fivlt. Hoffmann GROVE OF BIG TREES EL PORTAL ..' -/ r** <" ->* ^ ; / / POINT ^^. 'HOTEL -^ Dana Mt) .1^3050 (t.> /O^X ''Cathedral PelT *\ \\{ ? yrr .^ . 1 9 ! 8 fu % ^S> i x > *\ Kuna J* S\ Peak|C * * Vv 12951 It. TEN\YA LAKE LbDGE .Parsons \ ^Peak ,V / 12120 ft. \ LODGE / , ^Mt.Lyell 13090 n Lake n / K^ jj \Chinquapiry V kw^ftl '^S^; I'Nfe Red Peak %1 1700 It. ,Buena Vista Peak J\ 01 9777 It. y-^-r / / / r Xj 'Triple Divide Peak 11613 ft. Sing Peak 10544 It. WAWONA HOTEL Devil Peak-^1 7079 It. Chiquito Pass 8039 ft. MARIPOSA GROVE OF BIG TREES 3-J 70 MERCED 70 FRESNO YOSEM1TE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA Scale 2 1 Boundary Automobile Roads Trails Railroads CVpyrbM '>r TUn.1 McNHy 4 Co. 7?9o Page eighteen Tioga Lake in Glacier Canyon, on the Tioga Road the point of entrance of Cathedral Creek and Hoffman Creek. For miles the river is one wild, exulting, on-rushing mass of snowy purple bloom, spreading over glacial waves of granite without any definite channel, gliding in mag- nificent silver plumes, dashing and foaming through huge bowlder dams, leaping high in the air in wheel-like whirls, displaying glorious en- thusiasm, tossing from side to side, doubling, glinting, singing in exuberance of mountain energy." The Waterwheel Falls Muir's "wheel-like whirls" are the soon-to-be- celebrated Waterwheel Falls. Rushing down the canyon's slanting granites under great head- way, the river encounters shelves of rock pro- jecting from its bottom. From these are thrown up enormous arcs of solid water high in the air. Some of the waterwheels rise fifty feet and span eighty feet in the air. The sight is extraordinary in character and quite unequaled in beauty. Nevertheless, be- fore the trail was built, so difficult was the going that probably only a few hundred persons all told had ever seen the waterwheels. The Mountain Climax of Yosemite Park The mountain mass, of which Mount Lyell is the chief, lies on the southeast boundary of the Park. It is reached by trail from Tuolumne Meadows on the north, or from Yosemite Valley on the south, by the trail passing Vernal and Nevada Falls. From the Tuolumne Meadows the trail swings around Johnson Peak along the Lyell Fork, and turns southward up its valley. Rafferty Peak and Parsons Peak rear gray heads on the right, and huge Kuna Crest borders on the left side of the trail for miles. At the head of the valley, beyond several immense granite shelves, rears the mighty group with Mount Lyell, 13,090 feet, in the center, supported on the north by McClure Mountain and on the south by Rodgers Peak. The way up is through a vast basin of tumbled granite, encircled by a rampart of nine sharp, glistening peaks and hundreds of spearlike points, the whole cloaked in enormous sweeping shrouds of snow. Presently the granite spurs inclose you. And beyond these looms a mighty wall which apparently forbids further approach to the mountain's shrine. But another half hour brings your climbing horse face to face with Lyell's rugged top and shining glaciers, one of the noblest places in America. Merced and Washburn Lakes The waters from the western slopes of Lyell and McClure find their way. through many streams and many lakelets of splendid beauty, into two lakes which are the headwaters of Merced River. The upper of these is Washburn Lake, cradled in bare heights and celebrated for its fishing. This is the formal source of the Merced. Several miles below, the river rests again in Merced Lake. There is a mountain lodge with good accom- modations and service at Merced Lake, and a fine trail leads to the Yosemite Valley through glacier-polished slopes. Fishing in these waters is unusually good. P a & e nineteen Vernal Falls oices is heard for mile* Page twenty ineling one of the giant Sequoias Wild Animals and Fishing The Park is a sanctuary for wild game of every sort, firearms not being permitted. There is an abundance of deer, bear and smaller fur animals. The predatory mountain lion or cougar, lynx, timber wolf, fox and coyote, are being exterminated as rapidly as possible by the rangers. Fishing is permitted in all waters within the Park during the open season, under the State laws regarding size of fish and limit. A State fishing license is necessary and can be obtained in Yosemite village. On many of the lakes there are boats which can be rented. The Park Season While Yosemite National Park is open all the year, and the Sentinel Hotel, in the valley, is always open for tourists, the Mariposa Grove and the higher elevations are inaccessible except during the summer season, extending from May 1st to November 1st. In the spring months the waterfalls are seen at their best, though even late in August, when the waters have lowered, their mist-like filmy beauty is incomparable. In September and October Yosemite is delightful. These are the "months of reflection," when the exquisite autumnal colorings, and the light and air of Indian summer, lend their charm to the glories mirrored in mountain lakes. Approaches to the Park The El Portal Entrance The approach from Merced by rail to El Portal, the western gateway to Yosemite Park, follows for over seventy miles the picturesque canyon of the Merced River once famous for its gold-bearing gravels, now for its speckled trout. Winding through the foothills, the scenery each mile in- dicates, by the increasing ruggedness of the rock formations, a nearing to the great Sierra Range. The pines take on a greater height, their stately outlines appearing against a mountain back- ground ever becoming loftier. Auto-stages daily meet incoming trains at El Portal and from there start on the fifteen-mile drive into the heart of the valley, the road closely skirting, beneath shady forests, the curves and reaches of the turbulent, musical stream. Passing under a rocky archway, a narrow portal towers ahead, pinnacles and precipices crowding on either side a fitting introduction to the wild beauties beyond. Arriving at Yosemite village, stop is made at the Sentinel Hotel, Yosemite Camp and Camp Curry. The Wawona Entrance At Merced, auto- stages meet incoming trains and daily, during the summer season, leave for the Park over the Wawona Road. From the San Joaquin Valley the road climbs upwards into the romantic foot- hill country that in Forty-Nine was crowded with gold-seekers. The scenic drive continues to Miami Lodge, on the margin of the forest over- looking the valley of Miami Creek. Here lunch is had, the road beyond Miami leading through forests that grow denser, and amid scenery in- creasing in grandeur. Following a short detour to the south, the road turns into the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees the southern gateway to the Park. After a stop amidst the giant trees, the trip is continued to the Wawona Hotel, seventy- four miles from Merced. Each morning the auto- stage starts from Wawona on the thirty-five-mile drive through densely forested canyons to the hotel and camps in the Yosemite Valley. The first view of the valley is had from Inspiration Point. At Chinquapin, fourteen miles from Yosemite Village, a road diverges to the east and runs the same distance to the Glacier Point Hotel, on the summit of Glacier Point. How to Reach Yosemite National Park Yosemite National Park is reached the year 'round via Merced and El Portal, Cal. The Yosemite Valley Railroad operates daily be- tween Merced and El Portal, a distance of Page twenty-one Cathedral Rocks Page twenty-two Another of the amazing spectacles of Yosemite is the Waterwheel Falls of the Tuolumne River seventy-eight miles, connecting with auto stages of the Yosemite National Park Company run- ning between El Portal and Yosemite Valley, a distance of fourteen miles. During summer season the Park is also reached by daily auto- mobile service of the Yosemite Stage and Turn- pike Co., "The Horseshoe Route," operating between Merced and Yosemite Valley, a dis- tance of 109 miles, via Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and Wawona (over-night stop), with side trip of twenty-eight miles from Chinquapin to Glacier Point and return. Another summer route is via El Portal and Tuolumne Big Trees, ("Triangle Route"). Round-trip excursion tickets at reduced fares are sold at certain stations in California to Yosemite National Park as a destination. Pas- sengers wishing to visit the Park in connection with journeys toother destinations (while en route between San Francisco and Los Angeles, for example) will find stop-over privileges available on both round-trip and one-way tickets and may make side trip from Merced to the Park and return. During summer season the fare from Merced to Yosemite village via El Portal is $10 one way, $13.50 round trip; via Mariposa Grove and Wawona it is $14.25 in each direction, with $5 additional charge for side trip to Glacier Point. Fare from Merced to Yosemite Valley and re- turn, for circle tour in one direction via El Portal, and in the opposite direction via Wawona and Mariposa Grove, is $24.25. Fare from Merced to Yosemite Valley and return via El Portal, in one direction via Tuolumne Big Trees, is $20.00. Certain regulations are in effect for free stor- age of baggage at Merced and other stations for actual length of time consumed by passen- gers in making side trip to Yosemite National Park. On baggage checked to El Portal usual free allowance will be made by railroads. On baggage checked through to Yosemite village, via El Portal, collection of $1.00 for each trunk will be made. Automobile stage lines will carry limited amount of hand baggage without charge. Hotels, Camps, and Lodges Sentinel Hotel, American plan: Per day, each, room without bath $5 00 Per day. each, room with bath $ 6 00- 7 . 00 Exclusive use of double room by one per- son, additional charge, per day I . 50- 3.00 Tub or shower baths in detached rooms. each .50 Meal and lodging rates Breakfast I 00 Luncheon I . 25 Dinner I 50 Lodging I 25- 325 Meals served in rooms, extra .50 New Glacier Point Hotel, American plan: Per day, each, room without bath 4.00- 4 50 Per day, each, room with bath 5.00 8.00 Exclusive use of double room by one per- son, additional charge, per day I . 50- 3 00 Tub or shower baths .50 Meal and lodging rates: Breakfast ... I 00 Luncheon I 00 Dinner 1 .00 Lodging I 00- 5 00 Meals served in room, extra. . 50 Camp Curry, American Plan: Board and lodging in ordinary tents Per day. each 3 . 50 Per week, each 2300 Per four weeks, each 90 00 Children between 5 and 8 years, per day . 225 Between 3 and 5 years, per day Under 3 years, per day 1.25 Guests desiring extra tent room will be charged as follows: Tent for four people, occupied by two people, per day extra, each I 00 Tent tor two people, occupied by one person, pei day extra I . 00 Extra tent rates will be applied only be- tween June I and August I. Meal and lodging rates: Breakfast 75 Lunch 75 Dinner I 00 Lodging . . . . I . 00 Meals sent to tents or served out of meal hours, extra . . .25 Page twenty-three Agassiz Column Page twenty-four Hotels, Camps and Lodges -Cnntiitiml Board and lodging in bungalow tents, in- cluding bath: Per day, each $ S 0!) $ 6 00 Per week, each . 33.00 400(1 Per four weeks, each I .' > 00 I 50 00 Tub or shower baths, each . .... .35 3 tickets for I 00 5 tickets for . . I . 50 Yosemite Camp. American plan: Per day. each .. 3.50- 4.00 Per week, each 23 00- 26. 50 Per four weeks, each 90.00-104.00 Exclusive use of bungalow or tent by one person, additional charge per day Tub or shower baths in detached rooms, each Meal and lodging rates: Breakfast Luncheon Dinner . . Lodging ......................... I . 00- Meals served in tents or bungalows. extra ................................ Merced Lake Lodge. American plan: Per day. each ............................ Exclusive use of tent by one person, addi- tional charge per day .................... Tub or shower baths ...................... Meal and lodging rates: Breakfast .................................. Luncheon .................................... Dinner ................................... Lodging .................................. Meals served in tents, extra ................. Tenaya Lake Lodge. American plan: Per day. each .......................... . ____ Exclusive use of tent by one person, additional charge per day ............................ Tub or shower baths Meal and lodging rates: Breakfast ................................. Luncheon ............. Dinner ............. ......... Lodging .................................. Meals served in tents, extra I 00 .75 75 I 00 I 50 .25 4 00 .00 50 $1.00 .75 1.00 I 50 .50 4 . 00 1 . 00 50 1.00 75 1.00 1 . 50 50 Swimming There are swimming pools at Camp Curry and Yosemite Camp. Rates for Sight-Seeing Automobile Trips Round Trip Floor of Yosemite Valley to Mirror Lake, upper end of valley and Happy Isles (time, about 2 hours) . $1 . 00 Floor of Yosemite Valley to El Capitan, Pohono Bridge, lower end of valley, returning via Bridal Veil Falls and Cathedral Rocks (time, about 2 hours) I . 00 Yosemite Valley to Artist and Inspiration Points, on the rim of the valley, including lower end of valley and El Capitan via Pohono Bridge, returning via Bridal Veil Falls and Cathedral Rocks (time, about 3 hours) . . 3.00 Rates for Automobile Tours One Round Way Trip Between Yosemite Valley. Artist and In- spiration Points, Glacier Point, and Mariposa Big Trees: Yosemite to Glacier Point $5.00 Yosemite to Mariposa Big Trees 7 50 Yosemite to Mariposa Big Trees and re- turn to Glacier Point Yosemite to Glacier Point, thence to Mariposa Big Trees and return to Yosemite Glacier Point to Mariposa Big Trees. ... 7 50 Glacier Point to Mariposa Big Trees and return to Yosemite Between Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Bie Trees $7 . 50 10 00 10 00 15 00 10.00 5.00 Saddle Animals for Riding on Floor of Valley Full day $4 00 Half day 2.50 Full day shall consist of eight hours the first half day to terminate not later than 12 o'clock noon; the second half day to terminate not later than 6.00 p. m.; each half to consist of a period of four hours or less. Horseback Tours from Yosemite Valley One Way Round Trip Number Required in Party From Yosemite Valley to: Glacier Point, short trail $4 00 1 Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls, long trail 4.00 I Glacier Point via Pohono Trail. returning via Pohono Trail. short trail or long trail 7 00 5 Merced Lake. . $4 00 7 50 Tenaya Lake 4 00 7 50 1 Top of Vernal and Nevada Falls Clouds Rest by Vernal and 3 50 5 Nevada Falls 5 00 5 Eagle Peak via Yosemite Falls 4 00 5 Yosemite Falls. . 3.50 5 North Dome via Mirror Lake. returning via Yosemite Falls 5 00 5 From Glacier Point to: Floor of valley, short trail 2 00 1 Floor of valley via Nevada and Vernal Falls, long trail Floor of valley via Pohono Trail 3 50 4 00 700 5 5 Sentinel Dome 1 00 Ostrander Lake (good fishing) 4 00 5 Mariposa Big Trees via Wa- wona, Peregoy Meadows, and Alder Creek, returning via Chilnulalna Falls and Mono Meadows (3-day trip Merced Lake 4 00 15 00 7 50 5 I Johnson Lake 4 00 5 Thr Kis-.ii it- \half day. . res /f u ll d a y 2 50 3.50 5 5 From Merced Lake to: Floor of valley, direct 4 00 1 Floor of valley via Clouds Rest Washburn Lake (good fishing) . Tenaya Lake via Forsyth Pass 5.00 4.00 2.00 5 1 1 Tenaya Lake via Vogelsang or Babcock Pass and Tuolumne Meadows 5.00 5 From Merced Lake to: Tenaya Lake via Sunrise Trail and Tuolumne Meadows. . . . 5.00 5 Glacier Point 4 00 I From Tenaya Lake to: Floor of valley via Snow Creek and Tenaya Canyon 4.00 1 Floor of valley via Forsyth Pass 5.00 5 Merced Lake via Forsyth Pass or Babcock Pass and Tuol- umne Meadows 5 00 5 Merced Lake via Forsyth Pass 4.00 7.50 1 Merced Lake via Sunrise Trail and Tuolumne Meadows .... 5 00 5 McGee Lake 3 50 5 Tuolumne Soda Springs Waterwheel Falls 3.50 4 00 1 5 May Lake (good fishing) Dog Lake (good fishing) Mount Conness via Tuolumne 2 00 3.50 1 1 Meadows 5 00 5 Bloody Canyon via Tuolumne Meadows 5 00 5 Ranger's station down Leevin- ing Canyon (2 days) . . ... 10.00 5 Rates for Private Party Camping Trips Saddle horses, per day, each Pack horses, per day, each Guides, with horse, per day, each . Packers, with horse, per day. each Cook, with horse, per day, each. . . $2 00 $3 00 2 00 3 00 5 00 5 00 5 00 Rates for All-Expense Camping Tours 1 person, cost per day. per person . . 2 persons, cost per day, per person . 3 persons, cost per day, per person 4 persons, cost per day. per person 5 persons, cost per day, per person 6 persons, cost per day, per person 7 persons, cost per day, per person 8 persons, cost per day, per person ... 9 persons, cost per day, per person. . . 10 persons or more, cost per day, per person.. Above rates include the necessary guides, cooks, saddle horses, pack horses, provisions, canvas shelters, cooking utensils, stoves and bedding. $25 00 15 75 12.65 12.40 11.30 10 60 10 00 9 70 9 60 9 50 Page twenty-five Some of the .equoia tree, are the largest and the oldet living thing. Sentinel Hotel. Yosemite Valley One of the swimming pools in Yosemite Valley Glacier Point Hotel Hotel Wawona. near Mariposa Grove of Big Trees Camping Outfits for Valley Use Many tourists prefer to rent their camping outfits in- stead of bringing same with them, and for the benefit of >uch persons the following schedules have been prepared, showing cost of renting camping outfits and equipment 'urnished. It is advisable in every instance that tourists desiring to camp in the Park should have reserved the necessary equipment before arrival, as during the busy season tents ire in great demand. No charge is made for camp sites, which are assigned to campers by the superintendent of the Park. Price List for Regular Outfits by the Week and Month Persons in Party One Week Two Weeks Three Weeks One Month 3ne. . . Fwo . . $5.00 7 50 $6 50 9 00 $7.50 9 50 $8.00 10 00 Three 9 00 10 50 11 50 12 00 '-'our. . . ~ive 11.00 13 00 12 00 14 00 13 00 15 00 14.00 16.00 >ix 15.00 16 00 17 00 18.00 Hikers' Tours The hotels and camps are within walking distance of sach other, for those accustomed to that means of travel- ng. Economical and comfortable trips can be made by :quipping oneself at the rental department and merchan- lise store in the valley with camp outfit and supplies, md with pack animal, if desired. Carrying heavy equip- nent on a walking trip robs the trip of much of its pleasure, k delightful vacation may be had at an approximate cost >f $1 to $2 per day per person, including all expense. Trail Trips from Yosemite Village 1. Yosemite to Wawona by horse trail via Glacier Point. Distance twenty-five miles. 2. Yosemite to Glacier Point via short trail, over Pohono Trail, and return via Fort Monroe on Wawona Road. Distance twenty-four miles. 3. Yosemite to Buck Camp by horse trail via Glacier Point, and return via Merced Lake. Distance seventy-eight miles. 4. Yosemite to Tuolumne Meadows and Soda Springs via road to Mirror Lake, thence via horse trail and Tenaya Canyon. Distance twenty-four miles. 5. Yosemite to Hetch-Hetchy Valley by horse trail via Tenaya Canyon and McGee Lake. Distance sixty- two miles. 6. Yosemite to Hetch-Hetchy via Yosemite Falls, White Wolf, and Harden Lake. Distance thirty-one miles. 7. Yosemite to Hetch-Hetchy by horse trail via Tenaya Canyon, Matterhorn. and Tiltill. Distance 100 miles. 8. Yosemite to Hetch-Hetchy by horse trail via Tenaya Canyon, Smedburg, and Benson Lakes. Distance seventy miles. 9. Yosemite to Soda Springs by horse trail via Vogelsang Pass. Distance thirty-seven miles. 10. Yosemite to Soda Springs. Lyell Fork Meadows, and Donohue Pass, via horse trail and Nevada Falls. Distance thirty-eight miles. I I. Yosemite to Soda Springs by horse trail via Ynsemite Falls, Eagle Peak, and Yosemite Point Trail. Dis- tance twenty-eight miles. 12. Yosemite to North Dome by horse trail and return via Yosemite Point. Distance nineteen miles. 13. Yosemite to Lake Tenaya by horse trail and return via Forsyth Pass and Clouds Rest. Distance thirty- two miles. 14. Yosemite to Merced Lake and Washburn Lake by horse trail. Distance twenty miles. 15. Yosemite to Johnson Lake and Buck Camp, via Glacier Point, Illilouette Creek, Buena Vista Creek, and Royal Arch Lakes. Distance twenty-two miles 16. To Moraine Meadows via Nevada Falls. Starr King. Ottoway Creek, and Merced Pass. Distance twenty- one miles. 1 7. Yosemite to Waterwheel Falls via Tenaya Canyon and White Cascades. Distance twenty-five miles. 18. Yosemite to Ten Lakes via Yosemite Falls and Yo- semite Creek. Distance seventeen miles. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any Consolidated Ticket Office; or apply to the Bureau of Service National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111.: Arizona and New Mexico Rockies. California for the Tourist. Colorado and Utah Rockies. Crater Lake National Park. Oregon. Glacier National Park. Montana. Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona. Hawaii National Park. Hawaiian Islands. Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas. Page twenty-seven The Maiden'* Profile in Nevada Fall* Page twenty-ei^ht Camp Curry, on the floor of the valley Mount Rainier National Park, Washington. Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota, Upper Mich- igan, Iowa and Illinois. Mesa Verda National Park, Colorado. Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho. Yosemite National Park, California. Zion National Monument. Utah. U. S. Government Publications The following publications may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Govern- ment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at prices given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an account of the origin of Yosemite and Hetch-Hetchy Valleys, by F. E. Matthes. 48 pages, 24 illustrations. 10 cents. The Secret of the Big Trees, by Ellsworth Huntington. 24 pages, 14 illustrations. 5 cents. Forests of Yosemite, Sequoia, and General Grant National Parks, by C. L. Hill. 40 pages. 23 illustrations. 20 cents. Panoramic view of Yosemite National Park, 18^2 by 18 inches. 25 cents. The National Parks Portfolio. By Robert Sterling Yard. 260 pages, 270 illustrations. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. Altitude of Summits in Yosemite Valley The following may be obtained from the Director of the United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. Map of Yosemite National Park, 29 by 31 inches, 25 cents a copy flat; 40 cents a copy folded and bound be- tween covers. Map of Yosemite Valley, 35 by I5V inches. 10 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C., or by personal application to the office of the superintendent of the Park. Circular of General Information Regarding Yosemite National Park. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments and railroad routes th-. reto. Park Administration Yosemite National Park is under the jurisdiction of the Director, National Park Service, Depart- ment of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Park Superintendent is located at Yosemite, Cal. Name Altitude Above Sea Level Altitude Above Pier near Sentinel Hotel Feet Feet Artist's Point 4,701 739 Basket Dome 7,602 3.642 Cathedral Rocks 6.551 2.591 Cathedral Spires Clouds Rest 6.114 9.924 2.154 5.964 Columbia Rock 5.031 1.071 Eagle Peak 7.773 3.813 El Capitan 7.564 3.604 Glacier Point 7.214 3.254 Half Dome 8.852 4.892 Leaning Tower 5.863 1.903 Liberty Cap 7.072 3.112 North Dome 7.531 3,571 Old Inspiration Point 6.603 2,643 Panorama Point 6.224 2.264 Profile Cliff 7.503 3.543 Pulpit Rock 4.195 765 Sentinel Dome 8.117 4.157 Stanford Point 6.659 2.699 Washington Column . . Yosemite Point 5.912 6.935 1.952 2.975 Height of Waterfalls in Yosemite Valley Altitude of Crest Name Height of Fall Above Sea Level Above Pier near Sentinel Hotel Yosemite Falls Middle Yosemite Falls. . . Lower Yosemite Falls Nevada Falls Feet 1.430 600 320 594 Feet 6.525 4.420 5.907 Feet 2.565 460 1.947 Vernal Falls Illilouette Falls Bridal Veil Falls Ribbon Falls Widows Tears Falls 317 370 620 1.612 1.170 5.044 5.816 4.787 7.008 6.466 1.084 1.856 827 3.048 2.506 Page twenty - n i n e Camp Yosemite, on the floor of the valley Size of Big Trees in Mariposa Grove [All dimensions are in feet.] Distances frorn^ Yosemite Post-Office to Princii Points in Yosemite Valley Ap- Ap- Trees Girth at proxi- mate Diam- Girth about 10 Feet proxi- mate Diam- Height Base eter Above eter 10 Feet at Base Ground Above ase Ground Grizzly Giant Faithful Couple. . . 93 94 29.6 29 9 64.5 63 20.5 20 204 244 Michigan 55 5 17.7 40 12.7 257 Fresno 63 20 38.5 12.2 273 Columbia 80. 5 25 6 52 16.5 294 Old Guard (South Tree) 45 14.3 31 99 244 Lafayette 92.5 29.4 53 16.9 273 Nevada. 48.5 15.4 35 II. 1 278 General Sherman.. 63 20 41 5 13.2 267 General Grant. . . . 67 21.3 42 13.4 271 General Sheridan. 76 24 2 51 16.2 263 Philadelphia 61.5 19 6 50.5 16.1 275 St. Louis 73 23.2 51 16 2 269 Lincoln 72 22 9 54.5 17.3 258 Washington . . 92 29 3 65 20.7 235 William McKinley 70 22 3 46.5 14 8 243 General Logan. . . . 76 24 2 49.5 15 7 259 Galen Clark 59 5 18 9 47 14.9 238 Pittsburgh 53 5 17 41 13 242 Vermont 47 14.9 38 12.1 257 Wawona (26 feet through opening) 52 J6 5 60 5 45.5 19 2 14.5 227 237 Forest Queen 53.5 17 38 12 1 219 Boston 58 18 4 47 14 9 248 Chicago 57 18 1 40.5 12 9 223 Whittier 62 19 7 47 14 9 268 Longfellow 51.5 16.4 43 13 7 273 Capt. A. E. Wood . 52 16 5 40 12 7 310 Mark Twain 53 16.9 41 13 331 Mississippi Stonewall Jackson . 54.5 53 17 3 16 9 37.5 38.5 11.9 12.2 269 265 Georgia South Carolina.. . . 48 74 15.3 23 5 35 54.5 III 17.3 270 264 Name* Distance Miles Direction Basket Dome (top of) 9 Northeast Camp Curry Clouds Rest 1.0 1 1 East El Capitan. . 3.5 West Glacier Point 4 5 South Glacier Point Hotel 4 5 Half Dome (foot of) 3 East 2 5 Liberty Cap . . . 5 5 3 Mount Watkins (top of ) . . Nevada Falls (594 feet) North Dome (top of) Sentinel Rock Tenaya Canyon 9.0 6.0 II. 1.0 4.0 3 Northeast West East South Vernal Falls (317 feet) Yosemite Falls (1.750 feet) 5.0 .5 East North What to Wear Reasonably warm clothing should be worn, and persons should be prepared for sudden changes of weather and altitude. Good everyday clothes, golf or bicycle suits are suitable for both men and women for Park travel. Wear- ing apparel, dry goods, boots, shoes, etc.. may be procured at reasonable rates at the general store on the floor of the valley. Serviceable gloves and tinted glasses should form a part of one's outfit. Page thirty The National Parks at a glance United States Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads For particulars as to fares, train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to any of the following Consolidated Ticket Offices: West Beaumont, Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton, Wash 224 Front St. Butte, Mont 2 N. Main St. Chicago, 111 175 W. Jackson Blvd. Colorado Springs, Colo. 119 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas, Tex 112-114 Field St. Denver. Colo 601 17th St. Des Moines, Iowa 403 Walnut St. Duluth, Minn 334 W. Superior St. El Paso, Tex Mills and Oregon Sts. Ft. Worth, Tex 702 Houston St. Fresno, Cal J and Fresno Sts. Galveston, Tex. . . 2 1st and Market Sts. Helena. Mont 58 S. Main St. Houston, Tex 904 Texas Ave. Kansas City, Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg.. 7th and Walnut Sts. Lincoln, Neb . . . . Little Rock, Ark. Long Beach, Cal. Los Angeles, Cal . Milwaukee, Wis. ...104 N. 1 3th St. ... 202 W. 2d St. L.A.&S.L. Station .215 S. Broadway 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis, Minn. ,202 Sixth St. South Oakland, Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park, Cal 160 Pier Ave. Oklahoma City, Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha. Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria, 111. .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore., 3d and Washington Sts. Pueblo, Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. St. Louis. Mo. 318-328 N. Broadway East St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. Sacramento. Cal 801 K St Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio, Texas 315-17 N. St. Mary's St. San Diego. Cal 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal. Lick Bldg.. Post St. and Lick Place San Jose, Cal., 1st and San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La.,Milam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa 5 10 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave. Tacoma. Wash.. . 1117-19 Pacific Ave. Waco. Texas. . 6th and Franklin Sts. Whittier. Cal L. A. & S. L. Station Winnipeg. Man 226 Portage Ave. Annapolis, Md . . . . 54 Maryland Ave. Detroit, Mich.. . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Philadelphia. Pa . . . 1539 Chestnut St. Atlantic City. N. J ..1301 Pacific Ave. Evansville. Ind.. . L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Pittsburgh. Pa . . Arcade Building Baltimore. Md B. & 0. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Reading, Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Boston, Mass . Brooklyn. N. Y Buffalo, N. Y., Ma 67 Franklin St. . . .336 Fulton St. Indianapolis, Ind., 112-14 English Block Newark, N.J., Clinton and Beaver Sts. Rochester. N. Y... Syracuse, N. Y . . 20 State St. University Block Cincinnati, Ohio. . .6th and Main Sts. New York, N. Y 64 Broadway Toledo. Ohio 320 Madison Ave. Cleveland. Ohio.. 1004 Prospect Ave. New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. Washington. D. C . . .1229 FSt. N. W. Columbus, Ohio . . . .70 East Gay St. New York, N. Y 3IW. 32d St. Williamsport. Pa. . .4th and Pine Sts. Dayton, Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. Wilmington. Del . . . ..905 Market St. South Asheville, N. C. . . Atlanta, Ga Augusta, Ga Birmingham, Ala . . Charleston. S. C Charlotte. N. C Chattanooga, Tenn Columbia, S. C. Jacksonville, Fla . For detailed National Parks Chicago. POOLE BROS CHICAGO 14 S. Polk Square 74 Peachtree St. 811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave. Charleston Hotel 22 S. Tryon St. 817 Market St. . Arcade Building 38 W. Bay St. Knoxville, Tenn. Lexington. Ky . . Louisville, Ky . . . Lynchburg, Va. . . Memphis, Tenn . Paducah, Ky . i. Fla. 600 Gay St. Union Station 4th and Market Sts. 722 Main St. 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 51 S. Royal St. Montgomery, Ala Exchange Hotel Nashville, Tenn., Independent Life Bldg. New Orleans. La. . . .St. Charles Hotel information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Pensacola Raleigh. N. C Richmond, Va Savannah. Ga. Sheffield. Ala.. Tampa. Fla . Vicksburg, Mis . .430 Broadway San Carlos Hotel 305 LaFayette St. 830 E. Main St. 37 Bull St. Sheffield Hotel Hillsboro Hotel 1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C. .236 N. Main St. Season 79/9 Page thirty-one The Big Tree Wawona. through which the auto road passes, in the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees *. * UNITED STATES RAILROAD ADMINISTRATION N AT I O N A L Wylie Way Camp Neatlea Beneath the Eastern Wall here in an enchanting nook, beside one of Zion'a living strea P a 6 two An Appreciation of /ion National Monument By JACK LAIT Written Especially for the United States Railroad Administration ION CANYON is an epic, written by Mother Nature in her most ecstatic humor, illustrated by Creation in its most ma- jestic manifestations, published by God Almighty as an inspi- ration to all mankind. Far from the foot-worn ways of conventional journeying, its remote and intimate preserves unfold to the traveler whose eye seeks the extraor- dinary a masterpiece in magnitudes, incredible colorings, vastnesses of those mystic influences which mark the earth's contour, and a haven of distant peace beyond the understanding of him who has never entered the mouth of Zion Canyon, where the hubbub of the affairs of men has not yet penetrated, where nature is so big that one may not think small thoughts, where one is embraced in the spirits of mystery and history and those fascinating elements untouched by the rude fingers of destroy- ing humans. I spent ten delicious days and nights between the unsealed walls of Zion; I explored it over fords and fallen giant trees down to where, between great, sheer altitudes of rock, no man has ever gone farther the stream becomes too deep to wade, too rocky to canoe, too narrow to swim. On every side was crude but marvelous nature in bird and foliage and fish and rock and running water. I stood there and I gasped, though I had become almost familiar with the miracles of Zion. I gasped: I gasped a prayer, for one may not behold what one beholds there without know- ing that there is a God; that His ways are inexplicable to man and to be taken in faith alone. Zion Canyon is the most beautiful spot on this continent. I think I have seen all the famed show-places that the evolution of the earth's formation has made. And of them all Zion to me stands first, stands alone. In this opinion I may stand alone. But I saw Zion at its best, and it captured me. Rich with a phase of American history seldom touched upon in popular literature, pregnant like the page of knowledge with the spoils of time, it gives to one who stands within its magnificent dimen- sions a sounder affection and admiration for the courage of men and a more profound impression of the wonder-works of God. Pate three 1 To the American People: Uncle Sam asks you to be his guest. He has prepared for you the choice places of this continent places of grandeur, beauty and of wonder. He has built roads through the deep-cut canyons and beside happy streams, which will carry you into these places in comfort, and has provided lodgings and food in the most distant and inaccessible places that you might enjoy yourself and realize as little as possible the rigors of the pioneer traveler's life. These are for you. They are the playgrounds of the people. To see them is to make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. Secretary of the Interior Zion National Monument OWN at the very southern edge of Utah lies Zion Na- tional Monument, the new- est among the many scenic marvels of our Western land. Not new in point of time since its making, but new in presentation as an attraction for the traveler and lover of the marvelous in nature. Guarded for centuries by unconquered barriers of burning desert and rugged mountain crests, this treasure house of splendors was an unknown land. A Land of Prehistoric Legend Legend tells us that, in unrecorded ages, a prehistoric people gathered within its rock bound amphitheatres to offer annual ceremonials in adora- tion of gods now long forgotten. With the passing of these ancient worship- pers the area that forms Zion Monu- ment relapsed into the silence of its beginning, a silence broken only by the howl of the mountain lion, the bark of the coyote or the challenge of the stag as he hurled defiance to his rival from some jutting point upon a canyon's rim. Even among the later arriving tribes of American Indians, Zion was held in reverence, none of these super- stitious people ever daring to spend th< night within the portals of its man: winding canyons. Discovered by Mormon Pioneers First of all among the Anglo-Saxons, came the Mormon pioneers to view this scenic spectacle enacted by the spirits of the gods, staged in a gigantic setting of towering battlements and thrones of glistening sandstone. Amaze< at the wonders of this nook in th( heart of Utah's Rockies, these religioi zealots stood in awe before the loft} pinnacles and crags of Zion colore< by streams of brilliant crimson dashe< against the faces of its mighty cliffs First among moderns to enter the gat< of this wonderland, these searchers int< the unknown saw revealed the handi- work of the Architect of the Univei written on walls that tower heaven- ward amidst a riot of color, bold and glorious. Built by Grind of Centuries Long had Zion's pageant been in th< making. It required the mantle winter's snows, kisses of summei brightness and the grip of untold au- tumn frosts; building, tinting, smooth- ing, breaking, to bring about a perf< Page four EJ Gobernador Great White Mountain of Zion. which, flanked on either side by towering peaks, stands out as one of the most striking gems in this array of scenic grandeur. Pa fie /JV9 a gigantic amphitheater shut in by t rise two thousand feet above its floor. tion in this maze of splendor destined to charm countless mortals with its weird sublimity. Opening of the Way For years following the coming of the Mormons, this gem among Ameri- ca's wonders was but rarely visited. Now, placed among our nation's cher- ished and protected playgrounds, Zion has finally come into its own. The way is open to you. Modern service furnished by roads of steel, allied with the distance-defying motor car and the building of good highways, has ren- dered all this possible. Zion's story cannot be told it must be seen. Its portals thrown open that you may enter, bid you come. Towering thrones, sculptured by the winds and rains, gleam in coral and in gold and bid you a welcome to the. shrine. A National Monument Zion National Monument was cre- ated and added to America's list of playgrounds on March 18, 1918. An area of 76,800 acres was includ- ed in the territory set aside to form this Monument and within its bound- aries are located formations of such unique colorings as to vie in attractive- ness with those of any other among our several National Parks. Zion Canyon is located in the south- ern part of Utah, its rugged and broken acres forming the clefts and crannies among the southern spurs of Wasatch range of mountains. Zion's Wondrous Diversity First among Zion's wonders is absolute diversity. With every turn the visitor is confronted by a picture differing totally from those he has al- ready viewed. Next come the woi drous colorings that have rightful caused the naming of this giganl gorge, "Yosemite done in oils." Within the Monument there several canyons, each one different in character and color, at the same time presenting features seen in no other section of America. There are cliff dwellings, telling the story of a home life among vanished races. There are spots where legend local places of worship dedicated to the ril of heathen deities. Page six There are thousands of unblazed trails reaching out into the towering cliffs where the daring mountaineer may find hazard and the geologist new formations to puzzle. There are unsolved problems of earth's writhing and upheaval when time was young. Everywhere are vistas that defy the talent of the artist to rightfully portray, for the whole Monument is one great riot of brilliant color and the fantastic picturing of nature. An Artist's Paradise Such artists as Moran, Knight, Del- lenbaugh, Culmer and Fairbanks have penetrated its gorges and brought forth studies from which paintings have been developed that have astonished the critics. Yet when others followed these artists into this practically un- known canyon they returned with re- ports that the weird and brilliant col- oring of these paintings told but half the story of Zion's grandeur. Other explorers, among them Mr. William H. Holmes, at that time head curator of the National Museum, and Major Powell, visited, described and made drawings of Zion's wonders, but so far was the canyon removed from the regular paths of travel, that it re- mained a "terra incognita" until, by means of the railroad and auto high- ways, its attractions were placed within reach of the traveler. Motor cars now roll into the very heart of Zion's beau- ties and deposit their passengers at the doors of a "Wylie" camp, the proto- type of those comfortable resorts which welcome visitors in the Yellowstone. A Highway of Romance The opening of Zion has been ac- complished through the efficiency of Utah's good roads. In combination with road construc- tion carried on by the National gov- ernment, these state roads have pene- trated a section of country that will rapidly take its place with the Yosemite, the Yellowstone and Glacier Park as one of America's scenic marvels. The story of this highway is romantic in itself, for, away back in the days when our West was in swaddling Looking down into Zion from its eastern wal' from this point of vantage one of the most glorious v stas of the Canyon meets the eye. P a e seven ZION NATIONAL MONUMENT __ UTAH | ! Location of natural features and elevations are approximate. Automobile Roads Trails Spnlncda NATIONAL I _ V^MONUMENT P a e eight clothes, Brigham Young first conceived the good road plans that were carried out so many decades later. President Young was among the earlier visitors to Zion's wonders and to him fell the christening of the great central cleft, around which are clustered the other gems of the Monument. This canyon so impressed him that he gave it the name of "Zion." First of all to be discovered in this great area of attractions was this Zion Canyon, which has, for years, caused wonder and amazement on the part of the few people who have braved the hazard of rough travel and meager accommodations in order to view the splendor of this practically unknown land. Where the Motor Conquers Distance By the automobile route now es- tablished, Zion is just an even hundred miles from the railroad station of Lund, Utah. The auto drive is made in less than seven hours, with a stop for luncheon at Cedar City, a most attractive little community nestled under the shadows of the southern spur of the Wasatch Mountains, which really marks the northern boundary of the area of which Zion is the leading feature. All along the way the traveler faces the range which gradually rises in his path, its color slowly changing from the deep purple of distant effects to the solid greys of the country rock splashed with vivid tintings of red and yellow sandstone, the whole softened by the varied green of scattered cedars and widespread areas of chaparral and mesquite. It is a most pleasant introduction to a land of mountain wonders where every mile shows a vista differing en- tirely from the last. From Cedar City the route follows the historic state highway. Rim of an Historic Sea About twenty miles to the south the road tips over the rim of the great intermountain basin, over which the waters of prehistoric Lake Bonneville spread. The road is flanked with towering mountains that shut in fertile valleys, green with growing crops. Here the rim of the basin is known as the "Black Ridge" and the rock formation gives truth to this title where the road winds down through the rocky gorge leading into Utah's "Dixie." Seventy-five miles from the railroad brings the traveler to the valley of the Rio Virgin, which here breaks out of a grim canyon where it has cut its way through the walls of what science terms the most marvelous "fault" in all the world's geological record. There certainly was some tremen- dous break, for when the earth's sur- face was riven by a gigantic disturb- ance, that portion west of what is known as the Hurricane Fault, dropped a full two thousand feet, leaving the eastern area a great suspended mesa with an edge ragged as a ripsaw, and overlooking a stretch of country ex- tending far over into Nevada and Ari- zona. A Glimpse at Utah's "Dixie" In Rio Virgin Valley grow the fa- mous "Dixie" peaches, the fig, the pom- egranate, almond and the walnut; in fact, everything that characterizes semi- tropic America save the citrus fruits. Blessed with the richest of soil ac- companied by an abundance of water for irrigation, and just lately brought into close touch with markets by means of good roads and the perfection of auto trucks, this semi-tropic Utah is coming back into the prosperity that marked its earlier years when its cotton fields supplied the intermountain com- munities and its vineyards furnished grapes and wines. With a sharp tuin to the east the highway climbs over the rim of the great fault, following the south bank Page nine Towers of the Virgin distant view of one of Zion's scenic gems. of the waterway, where the state road leads through the little towns of Virgin City and Rockville. Here we reach the confluence of two creeks that form the head waters of the Rio Virgin. One of these creeks, called the Par- unuweap, flows from the east, while its sister stream, known as the Mukuntu- weap, comes straight down from the north, like a crystal chain, and links rocky temples with green bottom lands and frowning narrows. The Western Temple Long before we reach the northward turning point, the great divide which marks the western boundary of Zion Canyon has loomed before us, and we are attracted by a massive pile that throws its summit four thousand feet above the valley's floor. As the lower- ing sun strikes this great mountain, its western side is illumined in a hundred tints and colors ranging from greyish white to the deep red of the great sand- stone crown that caps its summit. From its pictures we recognize the peak which the Mormon leader titled the "West Temple of the Virgin." A turn northward shows that this superbly colored mount marks the eastern side of Zion's portal and any question concerning the reason for its christening is dispelled by the grandeur of its wondrous formation and the mar- vel of its colorings. It is truly a natural temple. Nowhere in all the world can there be found a more striking facade than forms the east front of this weird moun- tain and, in conjunction with the array of peaks and dome-like summits, that flank it on the north. At Zion's Portal Across the canyon and forming its eastern portal, rises another mountain of like formation carrying a duplicate of the great sandstone cap. This is known as the "East Temple," and, though second to its western sister in magnificence, it stands as a fitting in- troduction to Zion's glories. One of Zion's strange formations is in the shape of a natural bridge, that stands, like a great bow with either end anchored to a rocky base, overlooking the chasm created by an erosion that Page ten left this ribbon of rock hanging high in air. A backward glance against the west- ern sky shows a formation that outlines a human face cut cameo-like upon the canyon's wall. Legendary lore has construed this face to be that of a famous chief who, after passing on, was transformed into the guardian of the canyon's portal. Into Zion's Depths On into Zion's depths the highway leads, passing on the right the Three Brothers, and entering the Court of the Patriarchs, where another trio of gigantic pyramids tower in vari-colored grandeur. Winding beside the foaming stream the road climbs over a slight divide and passes out onto a broad meadow, from the eastern border of which rises a dome, rightly christened the Mountain of the Sun, since its great white sum- mit is first illumined by the morning rays and through a break in the western wall receives the final touch of depart- ing light. At the base of this glittering sun mountain, is located the canyon camp where are clustered inviting tent houses, grouped about a social center with amusement and dining halls. Among the Trails of Zion With another day comes a journey- ing by horseback or on foot, to a hun- dred places of vantage. There is a trip to where the lumber is brought from the canyon's rim on a cable that carries its load down nearly three thousand feet. On the way is passed a huge peak, cut to a flat table on its summit and towering over three thousand feet above the canyon floor. Its chalk-like strata, in sharp contrast to the reds and browns that surround it, brings this splendid mountain out in clear re- lief. Its name is El Gobernador. Across the canyon and in an elbow of the creek, rises a mountain, closely resembling El Gobernador in every- thing but color; this western pile, titled The Angel's Landing, is in deep reds and deeper browns. Farther to the north are fields for most interesting exploration covering the Zion narrows, where the canyon shrinks so that the little creek covers its floor from wall to wall. On Zion's Western Rim- showing the depth of one of the Monument's peculiar canyons. where the brilliant colorings of the lower altitudes have given way to rocks of chalky white. Page eleven The Eastern Temple one of the two mountains which, on either side, flank the southern portal, and become at sunset one of Zion's most impressive features. Mystic Temple of Sinawava Up at the narrows' portal lies a great circular amphitheatre, with walls over two thousand feet in height. Though moderns have attempted to give to this rock bound circle a twen- tieth century name, it will stand forever as the Temple of Sinawava, or the place of worship for the greatest of Indian gods, whom legend declared was here venerated in days before his- tory first told a story of our continent. Trails lead from the floor to the rim of the canyon and the ardent explorer may find thousands of unblazed path- ways upon which to invest his energy. In fact, Zion is the heart of a great country filled with curious formations. One of the interesting side journeys is a climb to the canyon's eastern rim, made either on foot or by mule back. It is only by taking a climb upward to where the ragged sky line joins the blue, that the massive grandeur of this canyon can be realized. The trail is not particularly hard and the reward is well worth the effort. At the end of the trail, a point is reached where the canyon may be viewed in two distinct directions, for under the point, the great gorge swings almost at right angles with its southern stretch. Glories of Zion's Sunrise The best results of this journey to the eastern rim are secured by making the climb in the afternoon and remain- ing "on top" for the glories of the next sunrise. With the first coming of the dawn, the Mountain of the Sun springs out in dazzling whiteness. In vivid contrast, the great vermilion cap on the Western Temple emerges from the gloom and stands silhouetted against the sky, while, far below, the canyon's depths are still sunk in deepest shadow. The gradual transformation of the western wall from velvet darkness to great splashes of vivid colors is a change so weird, so impressive, that it lingers distinctly, when the other features of Zion are but a memory. To the west of Zion Canyon lies an- other great break among these old piles of picture-rocks. This western canyon has never been officially named and its visitors have been few. Differing entirely from Zion Canyon in coloring and formation, the western gorge can be viewed only from the highest vantage points. Page twelve To Zion's Western Rim There are several passes through which trails will be eventually cut so that ,the western canyon may be reached directly from Zion's floor, but at present, a journey back to the westward and up the great plateau that separates Zion from the western canyon is necessary, if the traveler would know its beauties. This is a trip of three or four days. It will take years to develop trails to all the unique corners of the Zion region. Not that they are inaccessible, but because they are a comparatively recent discovery. Not half a score of people have ever passed through the length of Zion, and there are branches of the several can- yons through whose network the foot of man has never trod. Zion's Prehistoric Dwelling A short and most interesting side trip, requiring but one day from the Wylie Camp, is to the cliff dwellings, located in the Parunuweap Canyon, seven miles above the confluence of the two creeks. High on the north wall of the canyon some of these well denned dwellings are located, with their walls standing. The rocky arch- way forming the roof of the community dwelling, has strange sign paintings in a long lost language, still undecipher- able. In different locations within the monument's limits are several other specimens of these prehistoric dwellings, and as the traveler to Zion develops in curiosity these relics of an unrecorded people will be thoroughly examined and their long hidden secrets given to the world. Season It is probable that Zion National Monument will ultimately become an all-year attraction for the tourist, but for the present the season is May 15, to November 1 . At this season the weather is at its best with bright de- lightfully clear sunshiny days and nights cool enough to make blankets necessary. Transportation and Accommodations Zion National Monument may be reached via the railroad stations of Lund, Utah, or Mlarysvale, Utah. From Lundy Utah the National Park Transportation Company op- erates auto stages daily during the season to Wylie Camp in Zion Canyon, leaving Lund about 10:00 A. M. and arriving at the Camp at 5:00 P. M. Returning auto stages leave Wylie Camp at 9:00 A. M. and arrive Lund 6:00 P. M. Stops are made at Cedar City, in each direction, for lunch. A nook in Zion's western wall, flanked on its northern side by three mountains of unique formation. To these mountains the Mormon pioneers gave the Biblical title of The Three Patriarchs. P a & e thirteen Section of Zion's Brilliantly Colored Western Wall splashes of vivid red characterize these formations Wylie Camp consists of central social and dining halls, and substantially constructed sleeping tents of wood and canvas, each accommodating from two to four persons, The tents are sanitary; have sound board floors, frames, windows and doors; contain regular beds and are heated as may be neces- sary. Hot and cold water is provided. The cost of ticket including auto stage transportation Lund to Wylie Camp and re- turn, lunch enroute in each direction, two nights' lodging and five meals at Wylie Camp, is $26.50. For additional time at Wylie Camp the rate is $ 1 .00 for each meal and $1.00 for lodging; weekly rate $24.00, American plan. Special automobile trips from the Camp to points within the Canyon, may be made at rate of 75c per hour for each passenger, with minimum charge of $3.00 per hour. Saddle horses are furnished at the rate of $3.00 per day and mounted guides at $4.00 per day. Splendid trout and bass fishing is within short distance from the camp. Camp wagons and equipment for extended side trips may be secured at Wylie Camp. The National Park Transportation Com- pany and Wylie Camp are operated by W. W. Wylie address: Springdale. Utah. Administration Zion National Monument is under the juris- diction of the Director, National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D. C. The Custodian of the Monument is located at Springdale, Utah. U. S. Government Publications The following publication may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., at price given. Remittances should be by money order or in cash. National Parks Portfolio, by Robert Sterling Yard, 260 Kges, 270 illustrations, descriptive of nine National irks. Pamphlet edition, 35 cents; book edition, 55 cents. The following publications may be obtained free on written application to the Director of the National Park Service, Washington, D. C. Glimpses of our National Parks. 48 pages, illustrated. Map showing location of National Parks and National Monuments, and railroad routes thereto. U. S. R. R. Administration Publications The following publications may be obtained free on application to any consolidated ticket office; or apply to the Bureau of Service. Na- tional Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau -Western Lines. 646 Transportation Building, Chicago, 111. Arizona and New Mexico Rockies California for the Tourist Colorado and Utah Rockies Crater Lake National Park. Oregon Glacier National Park, Montana Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Hawaii National Park, Hawaiian Islands Hot Springs National Park. Arkansas Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado Mount Rainier National Park. Washington Northern Lakes Wisconsin. Minnesota, Upper Michigan, Iowa, and Illionois Pacific Northwest and Alaska Petrified Forest National Monument. Arizona Rocky Mountain National Park. Colorado Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. California Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. Montana, Idaho Yosemite National Park, California Zion National Monument, Utah Page fourteen PACIFIC OCIAH THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS The National Parks at a Glance United States For particulars as to fares, to any of Austin Tex ........ 521 Congress Ave. Beaumont, Tex., Orleans and Pearl Sts. Bremerton, Wash ....... 224 Front St. Butte. Mont ........ ? N. Main St. Chicago. 111. . ..... 179 W. Jackson St. Colorado Springs, Colo. I 1 9 E. Pike's Peak Ave. Dallas. Tex ......... 1 12-1 14 Field St. Denver. Colo ............ 601 17th St. Des Moines. Iowa ..... 403 Walnut St. Railroad Administration Director General of Railroads train schedules, etc., apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or the following Consolidated Ticket Offices. West Lincoln. Neb. . . . Little Rock. Ark. Duluth, Minn. El Paso. Tex . . Ft. Worth. Tex Fresno. Cal. . . . Galveston, Tex Helena, Mont. . . . Houston, Tex .... Kansas City, Mo. Ry. Ex. Bldg., 7th and Walnut Sts. 334 W. Superior St. Mills and Oregon Sts. ...... 702 Houston St. . . . .J and Fresno Sts. .21st and Market Sts. ....... 58 S. Main St. . . .904 Texas Ave. Annapolis, Md 54 Maryland Ave. Atlantic City. N. J. . 1301 Pacific Ave. Baltimore. Md. . B. & O. R. R. Bldg. Boston. Mass 67 Franklin St. Brooklyn. N. Y 336 Fulton St. Buffalo. N. Y.. Main and Division Sts. Cincinnati. Ohio. . . .6th and Main Sts. Cleveland. Ohio 1004 Prospect Ave. Columbus. Ohio 70 East Gay St. Dayton, Ohio 19 S. Ludlow St. I04N. 13th St. ..202W.2dSt. Long Beach. Cal. . L. A. & S. L. Station Los Angeles. Cal 221 S. Broadway Milwaukee. Wis 99 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis. Minn., 202 Sixth St. South Oakland. Cal. . . 13th St. and Broadway Ocean Park. Cal.. Pacific Elec. Station Oklahoma City. Okla. 131 W. Grand Ave. Omaha, Neb 1416 Dodge St. Peoria, 111. . .Jefferson and Liberty Sts. Phoenix, Ariz. Adams St. and Central Ave. Portland, Ore.. 3d and Washington Sts. : Pueblo. Colo 401-3 N. Union Ave. ; St. Joseph. Mo 505 Francis St. i St. Louis. Mo.. 3 1 8-328 North Broadway | St. Paul. Minn. . .4th and Jackson Sts. East .801 KSi. Sacramento. Cal Salt Lake City. Utah Main and S. Temple Sts. San Antonio. Texas 315-17 N. St. Mary'. St. San Diego. Cal ........ 300 Broadway San Francisco. Cal 50 Post St. San Jose. Cal.. I stand San Fernando Sts. Seattle. Wash ......... 714-16 2d Ave. Shreveport. La..MiIam and Market Sts. Sioux City. Iowa ......... 510 4th St. Spokane. Wash. Davenport Hotel. 815 Sprague Ave Tacoma. Wash. . Waco. Texas. . . Whittier. Cal Winnipeg. Man 1117-19 Pacific Ave. 6th and Franklin Sts. L. A. & S. L. Station 226 Portage Ave. Detroit. Mich. . . 13 W. LaFayette Ave. Evansville. Ind. . L. & N. R. R. Bldg. Grand Rapids. Mich 125 Pearl St. Indianapolis. Ind.. 1 12-14 English Block Montreal, Que 238 St. James St. Newark, N. J., Clinton and Beaver Sts. New York. N. Y 64 Broadway New York. N. Y 57 Chambers St. New York. N. Y 31 W. 32 St. New York. N. Y 1 14 W. 42d St. Philadelphia. Pa. 1539 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh. Pa Arcade Building Reading. Pa 16 N. Fifth St. Rochester. N. Y 20 State St. Syracuse. N. Y 355 So. Warren St. Toledo. Ohio 320 Madison Ave. Washington. D. C 1229 F St. N. W. Williamsport. Pa. . 4th and Pine St. Wilmington. Del 905 Market St. Asheville. N. C Atlanta, Ga Augusta. Ga Birmingham. Ala. . . Charleston. S. C. . . Charlotte. N. C.... Chattanooga. Tenn . Columbia. S. C Jacksonville. Fla. 14 S. Polk Square . 74 Peachtree St. 811 Broad St. 2010 1st Ave. . Charleston Hotel .223. TryonSt. . . .817 Market St. . /Arcade Building .38 W. Bay St. South ih. Ky 430 Broadway i. Fla. Lexington, Ky Union Station Louisville, Ky .... 4th and Market Sts. Lynchburg. Va 722 Main St. Memphis. Tenn 60 N. Main St. Mobile. Ala 5 1 S. Royal St. Montgomery Ala Exchange Hotel Nashvile. Ten. .Independent Life Bldg. NewOrleans.La St. Charles Hotel Norfolk Va Monticello Hotel For detailed information regarding National Parks and Monuments address Bureau of Service, National Parks and Monuments, or Travel Bureau Western Lines, 646 Transportation Bldg., Chicago. SEASON 1919 RATHBUN-GRANT- HELLER CO.. CHICAGO - Pa&O fifteen Knoxville. Tenn 600Gay St. Padi Pensacola. Fla SanC arlos Hotel Raleigh. N. C 305 LaFayette St. Richmond. Va 830 E. Main St. Savannah. Ga 37 Bull St. Sheffield. Ala Sheffield Hotel Tampa. Fla HilUboro Hotel Vicksburg. Miss. .1319 Washington St. Winston-Salem. N. C . . 236 N. Main St. Angels Landing the glorious pile of brilliant color is brought into Striking contrast by being situated directly across from El Gobernador. : I 1 1 1 ! ii lilii I I I ill :