OO Americas Greatest Pare Food Expert and Mildred Maddocks THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The Pure Food Cook Book The Good Housekeeping Recipes Just How to Buy Just How to Cook Edited by MILDRED MADDOCKS Associate Editor of Good Housekeeping Magazine Editor of the "Family Cook Book"; "Every Day Dishes"; " Brosia Meal Cook Book" With an Introduction and Notes on Food and Food Values by HARVEY W. WILEY, M.IX Over 70 Illustrations SAN FRANCISCO EXAMINER SAN FRANCISCO, 1914 COPYRIGHT, 1914, BY HEARST'S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY Co., INC. All rights reserved, including- the trans- lation into foreign languages, including the Scandinavian, CONTENTS PAGE GOOD COOKING. BY H. W. WILEY, M.D. . 3 1 JUST How TO PLAN THE MENUS ... 9 2 SPRING MENUS 14 3 SUMMER MENUS 28 4 AUTUMN MENUS 41 5 WINTER MENUS .56 6 BREAD 71 7 JUST How TO MAKE BREAD . . . . . 75 8 JUST How TO MAKE BREAKFAST BREADS . . 81 9 RICE 95 10 JUST How TO COOK RICE 97 11 SOUPS . .in 12 JUST How TO MAKE SOUPS 113 13 EGGS 123 14 JUST How TO PRESERVE EGGS . . . .' 125 15 JUST How TO COOK EGGS 128 16 FISH 145 17 JUST How TO COOK FISH . . . . . 147 18 POULTRY 171 19 JUST How TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY . .173 20 MEAT 185 21 JUST How TO BUY MEATS 187 22 JUST How TO ROAST MEATS 200 23 JUST How TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK .... 202 24 JUST How TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF . . 205 viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Steamed Squash in Shell. Boiled Asparagus . . . 174 Roast Turkey, Garnished with Cranberries .... 175 Flank Steak. Inferior Ham. Choice Ham .... 188 Standing Rib Roast. Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin 189 Sheep or Lamb, Marked to Show the Retail Cuts. Showing Where the Chops and Cutlets of Veal Come in the Carcass 194 The Retail Cuts of Pork, as Seen in the Whole Pig. The " Beef Creature," Marked Off to Show the Retail Cuts . 195 Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon 198 Mutton Loin Roasts 199 Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades . . 204 Sausage Bundles 205 Casserole of Beef. Corn Cakes to serve with Meat . . 212 Casseroled Veal. Creamed Asparagus Tips .... 213 Ivory Cream. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake . . 244 Gooseberry Amber. Steamed Rice, Molded and Garnished with Cherries 245 Strawberry Compote. Orange Surprise 258 Choux Pastry. Strawberry Charlotte 259 Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. Cucumbers and Cress . 266 Tomatoes and Endive Salad, Garnished with Capers. Pond Lily Salad 267 Hawaiian Salad. Grape Salad in Tent . . . . . 274 A Spring Luncheon Table, with Violets for the Centerpiece, laid with the Service Plates, and ready for the Soup Service 275 Potatoes, French Fried. Stuffed Eggplant .... 286 Apples and Sweet Potatoes. A Christmas Garnish for the Mashed Potatoes 287 Celery Croquettes. Shad Roe Croquettes .... 330 Lentils Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. Green Peppers Stuffed . with Cauliflower 331 A Souffle Tin. Raspberry Jelly 358 Acorn Cakes. Devil's Food Pudding 359 Flag Cakes. Date Sandwiches . 3/6 Red and White Currant and Raspberry. Cherry Salad . 377 PREFACE In compiling this cook book the pages of Good House- keeping have been freely drawn upon. To the following experts our readers are especially indebted : DR. Louis M. HALL, Market Specialist for the Federal Department of Agriculture. MR. WILLIAM B. HARRIS, Coffee Expert for the Fed- eral Department of Agriculture. Miss BERTHA E. SHAPLEIGH, School of Cookery, Teachers College, New York City. MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN, Author of the Boston Cook Book. MRS. LINDA HULL LARNED, Author of Hostess of To-day. Miss HELEN LOUISE JOHNSON, Chairman of Home Economics Section of National Federation of Women's Clubs. RILEY M. FLETCHER BERRY, Author of Fruit Recipes. PROFESSOR B. E. POWELL, Editor of Publications, Illinois College of Agriculture. MILDRED MADDOCKS. IMPORTANT NEW FEATURES Blank pages are provided at the end of each chapter in order that each owner of the Pure Food Cook Book may increase its value. Write or paste in the proper place your favorite old recipes, as well as the best new recipes that you find. The publishers will be pleased to receive suggestions to be included in future editions of the book. GOOD COOKING BY H. W. WILEY GOOD COOKING* By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. WO or three years ago I drove with some friends through the vineyards of Burgundy, along that hillside which, because of its great agricultural wealth, is called the Cote d'Or, the hill of gold. Late in the afternoon we drove over the crest of the hill where there were no longer vines, but undulating fields of grain and grass. At sundown, high upon a h : llside, we came to a peasant's cot. The peasant with his family were at supper. They were not expecting visitors and we were not expecting to be visitors. They invited us to supper. The peasant's wife did not do as my mother used to when I was a boy, when we were at supper and the minister came into the lane. In such a case she would take away the corn mush and sorghum molasses and skimmed milk and get out the loaf of bread, the preserves and jams, and the chickens would come and lay their heads upon the block ready for the ax. All in honor of the minister. The peasant's wife did not put anything on the table she did not have there when we came in, only more of it. And such bread! the whole wheat grown in the field nearby and ground in the old- fashioned windmill in plain sight. The wheat was not deprived of all of its most important mineral ingredients * The special articles by Dr. Wiley herein have been written expressly for " The Pure Food Cook Book." 3 4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK by bolting and sifting. It was just what nature made it. The vegetables were crisp from the garden and the butter and milk from the spring-house nearby; and the cold lamb had never known the rigors of cold storage, but a day or two before was feeding on the aromatic grass of the hillside. The cooking was perfect. It was a feast fit for Lucullus. And this condition of affairs can be found in every part of France; good cooks are not the exceptions. They are the rule among the coun- try people of that great country. And who has ever heard of a divorce in rural France? It is unknown. Occasionally we read of divorces in French cities but never among the peasantry of the fields. Why should anyone want to get a divorce when he is so well pro- vided with simple and well-cooked food? There is nothing which is more conducive to tranquillity and hap- piness than good cooking. Unfortunately it is not con- sidered good form to be a cook. The girls of our country are set down at a piano at six years of age and compelled to pound ivory five hours a day for fifteen years, unless in sheer desperation they should run off with the chauf- feur. And when they have finished this long and ex- pensive course someone comes along and invents a pianolo or victrola that plays better music in a minute than a girl does after fifteen years of study. She is robbed of all her glory. But suppose she had spent fifteen years in learning to cook. Who could rob her of that glory? No one. It would remain a blessing to her, her parents, her husband, and her children for her whole life. What we need in this country is fewer pianos and more stoves. With a good cook in every household, and preferably not a hired one, the divorce mills of the country might as well shut up ; they would have nothing GOOD COOKING 5 more to do. Domestic life would be peaceful, happy, and unbroken. We must get away from the idea that cooking is drudgery. There is no drudgery, except in the mind. The man who goes out and breaks stone evenly so that a lasting road can be built over which future generations may pass with comfort and safety is not a drudge ; he is an artist. The boy who goes out into the field and plows a straight and deep furrow in which more corn will grow is not a drudge. He is an artist; and the girl who goes into the kitchen and cooks a meal that is good, that tastes well, that is properly bal- anced and properly served is no drudge ; she is an artist. The attitude is the principal thing in this mat- ter. If one has the spirit of the artist, the mere physical exertion which is necessary to paint the picture is no longer feared nor dreaded. A cook book such as this will do much to stimulate the artistic spirit in the cook, and thus make her forget the warmth of the kitchen, the heat of the fire, and the manipulations necessary to success. She has before her her canvas ; she is painting on it a picture ; that picture is the finished meal. She has the enthusiasm of art. There is no place for the depressing sense of' fatigue. Good cooking is also one of the fundamental principles of good health. This country has an abundance of food. There is no country in the world that has so much in proportion to the population ; and there are few coun- tries, I imagine, where so large a percentage of it is spoiled in the kitchen, before it reaches the table. What an infinite blessing it would be to all the people of this country if that spoiling of the food in the kitchen could be stopped ! How much of comfort, good health, and happiness that would imply. How great the economy which it would work. The cook who " knows how " is 6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the economical cook. And the food that is properly prepared for the table is the food which in the end costs less and goes further than any other. The high cost of living would have no terrors for the good cook who liked the simple and nutritious dishes. Good Housekeeping in its ministration, looking to the betterment of the food supply and the increasing excel- lence of cooking, is doing a world's service which will be only measured by the gratitude of the millions who are benefited by its work. We have Good Housekeep- ing stores that are selling foods approved by Good Housekeeping and the household utensils which receive the approbation of its Institute. We now want to com- plete that work by instituting Good Housekeeping kitchens in which the mistress of the kitchen will know the principles of nutrition as well as the technique of cooking. She will know how to select her foods for the purpose for which they are intended, namely, to restore waste, build tissue, and furnish heat and energy. Every meal will be selected for its fundamental proper- ties and then prepared with an art which will render each component of the food more completely assimilable and useful. Thus at the same time the Good House- keeping kitchen will minister to the taste and to the nutrition of the body. It is not necessarily scientific cooking in the strictest sense of that art, but it is rather artistic cooking in the broadest sense of that word. It is that form of equipment which will enable one to first select the foods best suited for the purpose and then manipulate them with skill to fulfill that purpose more completely. A cook book, therefore, should be not a mere cata- logue of recipes. This cook book is more than that. It is a selection of means to an end, skillfully adapted to GOOD COOKING 7 its purpose, and made as attractive as possible. The cook who is interested in this matter sufficiently to catch the spirit of the book will find her work lessened, her joy increased, and the benefits of her ministrations enjoyed. JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS AKING cut the bills of fare for the three hun- dred and sixty-five days of the year is a bug- bear to many a woman. This feeling is apt to come from trying to plan at the wrong time. Few women can stand Ijefore an ice-box con- taining the remnants of " gone-before meals," immediately after eating one, and plan out the next meal with zest or any great success. But take your pad and pencil and all the cook books you have. First look through these and put down under their respective headings those dishes which seem to you practicable or desirable for any of the three meals. Then plan the meals for a week, making out the probable market lists at the same time. Then when you stand before the ice- box with this week's bill of fare in your hand, you can adjust the meals to suit the exigencies of left-overs or lack of them, or to the incidents of company and unexpected changes. By this plan you will soon find your meals more varied, the cost should be lessened, and it is actually easier to plan better meals for less money in this way than to do so each day by itself. Of course you must make yourself familiar with the market supplies, and know how to choose. Knowing how to choose involves the whole subject of nutrition, and most housekeepers quail before its neces- sarily scientific rules and formulas. But there are little, common, everyday things which are great helps. For io THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK instance, there is an understood rule that any one food shall not be used twice in any form. That is, it is quite out of place to have chicken soup and boiled fowl in the same meal ; the connection is too obvious. This rule is a good one to use in planning the day's meals at any time. Eggs, certain kinds of meat or fish, should not be re- peated; tomatoes stewed for luncheon should not be served again in that meal. This rule is applicable all through and leads to the oft-repeated one which calls for the disguising of left-overs. Every meal should be a creation. Any one meal should not be colorless or flat. Do not serve more than one creamed dish. A cream soup, and baked custards for dessert is another example of this, for both would be white and creamy and as both in color and flavor the dinner would be flat and tasteless, it could not attract nor stimulate the appetite. Care always should be taken to aid digestion by the appearance as well as the flavor of the food. Within reasonable limits, dietetic errors do far less damage if the food is enjoyed when eaten. With fish, especially the fat fish, should be served some vegetable, sauce, or condiment acid in its nature, or to which acid is added. When spinach is served with fish, the inference is that vinegar will be used with it. Hot slaw is preferable to creamed cabbage, and cauliflower should be served with a hollandaise in place of a cream sauce, when either accompanies fish. It is often very difficult to accomplish this proper serving of vegetables with certain dinner dishes, and this is especially true when no meat is used. Fish and meat substitutes are flat, and the feeling induced by the thought of them indicates a tart accompaniment. Where there are no small children at the table a soup i o ' s O JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 11 or a salad served with each dinner would be preferable to a dessert. Desserts are often unnecessary, taking more time, labor, and money than they return in food value. Often they add the extra proteid or carbohydrate which overloads the digestive organs. After a hearty dinner, an egg dessert, for instance, containing sufficient nourishment for the main dish of luncheon, is out of place. If, when planning, you can say to yourself, " There are two cupfuls of milk, three or four eggs, sugar, etc., in that dessert, and that is all unnecessary/' you will find yourself planning more and more simple, wholesome things. Where the family at table consists of adults they are many times, far better off with two pieces of candy, or a sweet cracker with a cup of clear after- dinner coffee, than with any made dessert. Baked or stewed apples, apple sauce, or apple dump- lings are better and cheaper than apple pie, but most of us like apple pie, and should have it as a reward of virtue once in a while. But why take time, labor, and material to make an under crust for a custard baked in a pie tin, instead of in cups, without any crust? They are less expensive and more wholesome in the cup form. Where there are growing children at the table desserts are required as vehicles for the fats and sugar needed in their diet. In planning the dinner the question of soups is an im- portant one. Where fresh meat is to be served or dishes containing considerable food value, the soup should be a clear one. There is little food value to soup stock, but clear soup acts as a stimulant to the digestion and pre- pares the way for the rest of the dinner. Cream soups of any kind are nutritious', and should be employed for dinner when there is a lack in the rest of the bill of fare. This is why cream soups are suggested for luncheon so 12 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK often and with little else. A well-made cream soup, with crackers or bread, followed by a dessert or fresh or stewed fruit with plain cake, cookies, or gingerbread is all that is needed for an adequate luncheon. Any left-overs may often be used in the making of soups. Where the midday meal is merely luncheon, not a luncheon-dinner, planned for the children, the left-overs should be utilized and served then. In no department of cooking is skill more needed than in making over dishes hashes, in reality. The basis for most reheated meats, fish, and vegetables is a sauce of some kind. Master the making of sauces and one is master of the well-made entree. Remember, it is not the simplicity of the bill of fare, but how its dishes are cooked and served, that makes of the meal a feast. What to Serve for Breakfast Fruit may be served at every breakfast, but do not serve acid fruits like oranges and grapefruit when a cereal is served. Serve plain foods simply cooked. Serve home cooked, coarse cereals with eggs. Serve baked potatoes with creamed fish. Serve creamed potatoes with smoked fish. Serve creamed potatoes with lamb chops. Serve nuts and dates, or figs, with cereal in place of meat. Do not serve elaborate made dishes for breakfast. What to Serve for Luncheon Use the left-overs for luncheon. Serve a soup with waffles or griddle cakes for dessert. JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 13 It will be an innovation in some families, but the waffles are even better than at breakfast. Or serve a made-meat dish, a salad, and a dessert. Serve mayonnaise with egg, meat, fish, or shellfish salads. Also with the more delicate vegetable salads, as tomato, asparagus, or celery. Serve a boiled salad dressing with vegetable salads. Serve French dressing with all green salads. Serve plain lemon with all fat fish, as salmon, herring, mackerel or a green salad with French dressing. Serve a rich butter sauce or hollandaise with the white fish like halibut, cusk, haddock, and smelts. Tomatoes may be served with fish in place of lemon. What to Serve for Dinner The following combinations may be helpful in plan- ning the family dinner : they all are correct in supplying a well-balanced meal. Serve a clear soup, meat, potatoes, or a starchy vege- table like rice or hominy, a green vegetable, and dessert. Or meat, potatoes or a substitute, a salad, and dessert. Or a cream soup, a made dish of meat and potatoes, and dessert. With roast meats serve potatoes mashed, or roasted in the pan with the meat. With fricasseed meats, serve baked potatoes. Serve potatoes plain boiled, only when new. With broiled steak, serve creamed potatoes and a crisp fried vegetable like eggplant. With roast pork, serve baked potatoes, a green vege- table, and a sour apple sauce. With roast beef, serve potatoes baked in the pan and a sweet watermelon or peach pickle. Any vegetable harmonizes with beef. 14 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK With roast chicken, serve mashed potato, onions, and a sour jelly. With roast lamb, serve mashed potato, green peas or string beans, and a mint sauce. Serve caper sauce only with mutton. Serve tomatoes, in some form, with veal. For dinner salads, use only the simple green salads, with French dressing. What to Serve for Supper Use made dishes for supper as well as for luncheon. Use at least one hot dish in winter. Serve a cream soup followed by waffles. Do not serve a cream soup followed by a salad. Salads may be used at supper in warm weather. . Choose a vegetable or meat salad, using boiled dressing or mayonnaise. Serve pickles or a sour sauce with baked beans if there be any pork baked with them. Serve cakes or cookies, with fruit, for dessert at supper. SPRING MENUS MARCH SATURDAY Breakfast Oranges Bacon and potato omelet Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Hot biscuit Currant cake Tea JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 15 Dinner Cream of lettuce soup Lamb chops Stuffed potatoes Peas Steamed pudding with vanilla sauce Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Baked beans Brown bread Fish balls Coffee Dinner Chicken pie Sweet potato croquettes Cauliflower Cheese and red pepper salad Coffee ice cream, marshmallow sauce Snow cake Coffee Supper Spinach omelet Currant buns Preserves Gold cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Stewed apricots Uncooked cereal Omelet Rolls Coffee 16 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Baked bean soup Toasted brown bread Apple sauce Gingerbread Tea Dinner Beef a la mode Mashed potatoes Red cabbage Nut pie Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast . Bananas Cereal Fried fish Biscuit Coffee Luncheon Bread griddle cakes Cup cakes Tea Dinner Shepherd pie String beans Squash Fruit jelly Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Bacon Toast Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 17 Luncheon Cream tomato soup Muffins Preserves Tea Dinner Boiled mutton, caper sauce Mashed potatoes Turnips Lima beans Hawaiian salad Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Apples Creamed dried beef Baked potatoes Rolls Coffee Luncheon Sausages Muffins Sliced oranges Cake Tea Dinner Onion soup Scalloped mutton Potato croquettes Baked squash Lettuce salad, French dressing Apple pie Coffee i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK FRIDAY Breakfast A Grapefruit Cereal Poached eggs Coffee Luncheon Vegetable soup Crisp crackers Jellied prunes Cookies Tea Dinner Baked stuffed haddock with hollandaise sauce Boiled potatoes Spinach Tomato jelly salad Chocolate nut blancmange Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs Buttered toast Coffee Luncheon Rice with cheese Fruit cakes Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup Hamburg steak Carrots and peas in potato cases Watercress Baked rice pudding Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 19 SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Bacon and buckwheat cakes Coffee Dinner Roast turkey Cranberry sauce Mashed potatoes Onions Celery Baked squash Mince pie Coffee Supper Orange, nut and raisin salad Hot biscuit Chocolate layer cake Tea SPRING MENUS APRIL MONDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Scrambled eggs Biscuit Coffee Luncheon Corn chowder Preserves Ginger snaps Tea Dinner Roast pork Apple sauce Celery Mashed potato Squash Orange jelly Coffee 20 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal with bananas Creamed fish Rolls Coffee Luncheon Eggs and celery Nut bread Cake Tea Dinner Cold roast pork Baked potatoes Apple sauce Onions Turnips Rice pudding Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Griddle cakes and syrup Coffee Luncheon Cream toast Baked apples with nuts Molasses cookies Tea Dinner Cannelon of beef Riced potatoes Shell beans Lettuce with French dressing Fruit roll Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 21 THURSDAY Breakfast Cereal Broiled b'acon Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Macaroni and cheese Sliced oranges Almond cake Tea Dinner Lamb chops Mint potatoes Peas Apple and celery salad Caramel bread pudding Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs Buttered toast Coffee Luncheon Egg salad Clam fritters Preserves Cake Tea Dinner Baked shad Potatoes hollandaise Cucumbers Scalloped tomatoes Apple pie Cheese Coffee 22 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Rolls SATURDAY Breakfast Apples and sausage Baked potatoes Luncheon Cold roast beef Lyonnaise potatoes Pickles Dutch apple cake Tea Dinner Irish stew with dumplings Cheese and olive salad Fruit jelly Coffee .SUNDAY Breakfast Grapefruit marmalade Boiled eggs Coffee Coffee Biscuit Dinner Roast beef Potatoes baked in pan Celery Squash Asparagus salad Vienna peach parfait Sponge cake Coffee Supper Oyster patties Preserves Chocolate cake Tea JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 23 MONDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Broiled honeycomb tripe Graham rolls Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Biscuit Preserves Sugar cookies Tea Dinner Roast beef in Mexican sauce Boiled potatoes Spinach Steamed chocolate pudding with creamy sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Omelet Toast Coffee Luncheon Cream tomato soup Croutons Maple gingerbread Tea Dinner Roast stuffed veal Mashed potatoes Lettuce Succotash Lemon sherbet Cake Coffee 24 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SPRING MENUS MAY WEDNESDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs and cream Crisp bacon Muffins Coffee Luncheon Vegetable salad Corn sticks Cold sliced ham Fruit Cookies Dinner Broiled steak Mashed potatoes Peas Lettuce with dressing Spanish cream Chocolate sponge cake THURSDAY Breakfast Oranges Eggs baked in casseroles Hominy muffins Coffee Luncheon Spanish fricassee of chicken Rolls Bananas and cream Cookies Tea Dinner Clear soup with croutons Potroast of beef Boiled potatoes Brown gravy String beans JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 25 Spiced rice pudding Small coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Baked apples Cereal with cream Broiled bacon Rye muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped salmon Dandelion and mint salad Gingerbread Cream cheese Dinner Mackerel (baked in paper bag) Baked potatoes Peas Tomato salad Steamed fruit pudding with hard sauce SATURDAY Breakfast Baked rhubarb with orange Fish hash Corn bread Coffee Luncheon Escalloped potatoes and eggs Dandelion salad Sugar cookies Tea Dinner Panned mutton chops Mashed potato Creamed onions Radishes Ginger cream Lady fingers 26 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SUNDAY Breakfast Sliced oranges Omelet Sally Lunns Coffee Dinner Roast beef Potatoes baked in pan Celery Asparagus on toast Ice cream with maple sauce Small cakes Small coffee Supper Shrimp mystery in chafing dish Toast Sponge cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Baked apples Country sausage Bread-crumb griddle cakes with syrup Coffee Luncheon Cream of celery soup Crisp crackers Potato salad Cheese balls Preserved peaches Cake Dinner Roast beef (reheated) Potato puff Spanish onions Rhubarb tarts Small coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 27 TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates and cream Broiled finnan haddie Plain muffins Coffee Luncheon Potato omelet Lettuce with French dressing Fruit dumplings Tea Dinner Veal in casserole with vegetables Succotash Celery Orange and lemon sherbet Cake Small coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Fruit Cereal with cream Crisp bacon Potato cakes Toast Coffee Luncheon Macaroni with sausages Apple and celery salad Cookies Tea Dinner Roast beef pie Spinach Tomato salad Pineapple Bavarian cream Small coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Fruit Cereal 28 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Boiled eggs Coffee Luncheon Baked sliced ham Preserves Small cakes Orange Pekoe tea Dinner Beef stew with dumplings String beans Tomato and horseradish salad Crackers Charlotte russe Small coffee SUMMER MENUS JUNE SUNDAY Breakfast Strawberries and cream Baked eggs Bacon curls Raised muffins Coffee Dinner Mock bisque soup Roast lamb Brown gravy Mashed potatoes Fresh asparagus with drawn butter Vanilla ice cream Strawberry sauce Coffee Supper Fruit salad Cream mayonnaise Toast Chocolate MONDAY Breakfast Fruit JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 29 Baked salt mackerel Graham muffins Coffee Luncheon Poached eggs with asparagus Cookies Tea Dinner Lamb timbales Creamed carrots Baked potatoes Lemon bread pudding Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Strawberries Cereal Bacon Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Luncheon cheese Strawberries Cake Tea Dinner Cream of pea soup Broiled steak Fried potatoes Lettuce salad Cream cheese Wafers Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges sliced Minced lamb on toast Hot rolls Coffee 30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Sausages with bananas Graham toast Tea Dinner Tomato soup Crisp crackers Baked stuffed shad Potato balls Maitre d'hotel butter Sponge cake with whipped cream THURSDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Boiled shad roe Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped fish in shells Rye biscuit Cocoa Dinner Potato soup Tongue in casserole Boiled new potatoes Buttered string beans Strawberry parfait Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Sliced bananas Creamed codfish on toast Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Egg salad JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 31 Cheese breadsticks Cookies Tea Dinner Clam chowder Baked halibut Hashed brown potatoes Sliced cucumbers Chiffonade dressing Caramel custard Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with cream Broiled ham Fried potatoes Toast Coffee Luncheon Curried eggs Rice border Cake Coffee Dinner Cream of fish soup Cold tongue with jellied vegetables Baked macaroni Gingerbread Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Hominy and cream Fish balls and bacon Parker House rolls Coffee Dinner Planked salmon with potato balls Fresh asparagus on cream toast 32 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Fresh cherry pie Coffee Supper Welsh rarebit Pineapple salad Cream cheese Crackers MONDAY Breakfast Oranges Cereal with cream Plain omelet Muffins Coffee Dinner Casserole of lamb Boiled new potatoes Tomato and olive salad with mayonnaise Toasted crackers Nut tapioca Coffee Supper Cold deviled eggs Hot rolls Strawberries and cream Cocoa SUMMER MENUS JULY TUESDAY Breakfast Raspberries and cream Cereal Muffins Broiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Codfish puff Sliced tomatoes Rolls Iced tea Wafers JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 33 Dinner Broiled lamb dhops Currant mint sauce Boiled rice Tomato and lettuce salad Blancmange with raspberry sauce Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal with cream Plain omelet Toast Coffee Luncheon Finnan haddie on toast Muffins Gingerbread Tea Dinner Clear soup Baked ham New buttered potatoes Swiss chard Stuffed tomato salad Crackers Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Sliced bananas Scrambled eggs on toast Coffee Luncheon Cold sliced ham Cream toast Cocoa 34 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Roast lamb Mint sauce Roasted potatoes Green string beans Lettuce salad Chili dressing Caramel bread pudding Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Raspberries Boiled cooked ham (left from Wednesday) Creamed potatoes Hot rolls Coffee Dinner Consomme, garnish of rice and red peppers Baked halibut Fresh green peas New buttered potatoes Dressed cucumbers Vanilla ice cream Hot chocolate sauce Cake Coffee Supper Shrimp and green pea salad Lettuce sandwiches Fruit punch Cake SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed rhubarb Minced lamb on toast Biscuits Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 35 Luncheon Eggs in baked potatoes Popovers Tea Dinner Mock bisque soup Creamed salmon in shells Rice timbales Vegetable salad with mayonnaise Lemon bread pudding Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Hominy and cream Fish balls Baked beans Rolls Coffee Dinner Clear soup Baked chicken with stuffing Mashed potato Boiled Bermuda onions Romaine salad Cheese Crackers Raspberry shortcake Coffee Supper (Company) Creamed crab meat (in chafing dish) Toast Ripe olives Mint punch Cake MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Omelet Muffins Coffee 36 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Cream of onion soup Potroast of beef Scalloped tomatoes Baked macaroni Fruit Crackers and cheese Supper Jellied chicken and eggs Hot biscuits Gingerbread with marshmallow sauce Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Currants Poached eggs on toast Coffee Dinner Baked stuffed fish Sliced cucumbers French fried potatoes Scalloped eggplant Graham torte Coffee Supper Cold potroast of beef Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes Soft custard WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Beef hash Corn muffins Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 37 Dinner Veal cutlet, brow^i sauce Green peas Mashed potatoes Tomato salad Cold cabinet pudding Coffee Supper Fish croquettes with tomato sauce Rolls Macedoine of fruit SUMMER MENUS AUGUST FRIDAY Breakfast Blueberries Broiled fresh mackerel Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Scrambled eggs on cream toast Blueberry cake Cocoa Dinner Tomato and corn soup Baked halibut with hollandaise sauce Boiled potatoes . Green peas Apricot pie Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Shirred eggs Blueberry muffins Coffee 38 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Salad of halibut and peas with piquant mayonnaise Rolls Iced tea Cookies Dinner Boiled fowl with celery sauce Rice Green corn on cob Tomato and cucumber salad Lemon pudding Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Cantaloupe Hominy and cream Fish balls and bacon Hot rolls Coffee Dinner Cream of lettuce soup Roast lamb Currant jelly sauce Riced potatoes Baked, stuffed tomatoes Frozen apricots Coffee Supper Chicken rechauffe (chafing dish) Graham bread and butter Preserved figs Iced tea MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal and cream Creamed dried beef Corn cake Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 39 Luncheon Baked beans (reheated) Toasted graham bread Cocoa hot or iced Dinner Cold roast lamb Potato croquettes Scalloped eggplant Blueberry pie Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Baked sweet apples with cream Toast Broiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Luncheon cheese Sliced tomatoes with French dressing Tea Cookies Dinner Spanish fricassee of chicken Green corn on cob Lettuce salad Cream cheese with currant jelly Wafers Cold caramel custard Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Minced lamb on toast Plain muffins Coffee 40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Scalloped chicken and corn Toast Cocoa Dinner Chicken soup Broiled steak Baked stuffed tomatoes Mashed potatoes Baked blueberry pudding with Munroe sauce Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Blackberries Calves' liver and bacon Sour cream biscuit Coffee Luncheon Escallop of green corn Sliced cucumbers Fresh rolls Tea Cake Dinner Vegetable soup Veal loaf Boiled macaroni and tomato sauce Spinach Coffee ice cream Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal Baked eggs Muffins Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 41 Luncheon Cold ham Spinach salad and mayonnaise Rolls Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup with macaroni Baked stuffed bluefish Fried potatoes Creamed cucumbers Grape juice souffle Coffee SATURDAY Toast Coffee Breakfast Blueberries Broiled cooked ham Luncheon Scalloped fish in shells Peanut butter pinwheels Iced coffee Dinner Cream of cucumber soup Broiled chops Baked creamed potatoes Green corn Tomato and lettuce salad Rolled, toasted sandwiches Coffee AUTUMN MENUS SEPTEMBER MONDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal 42 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Poached eggs on toast Coffee Dinner Tomato soup (without stock) Crisp crackers Broiled steak Hashed potatoes Fried summer squash Apple pie Coffee Supper Cold corned beef Vegetable salad Bread Peaches sliced Cake Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Raspberries (late) and cream Broiled tomatoes on cream toast Coffee Dinner Cream of cucumber soup Cold sliced lamb Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes Cherry tapioca Coffee Supper Corn chowder (green corn) Hot gingerbread Cottage cheese WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS Fried corn meal mush 43 Bacon Green corn Dinner Clear soup Roast chicken Orange salad Sour cream pie Supper Lamb souffle Fresh rolls Macedoine of fruit Coffee Boiled rice THURSDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal Creamed dried beef Toast Coffee Dinner Vegetable soup Lamb chops Turkish pilaf Fried eggplant Blueberry pie Coffee Supper Lobster and spinach salad Rolls Iced tea Cookies FRIDAY Breakfast Baked apples and cream Bacon and potato omelet Coffee Rolls (reheated) 44 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Chicken and corn soup Baked bluefish Dressed sliced cucumbers Pear condet Coffee Supper Baked chicken hash Sliced tomatoes Sponge cake Iced tea SATURDAY - Breakfast Uncooked cereal Sliced bananas and cream Muffins Coffee Dinner Roast beef Franconia potatoes Scalloped squash Tomato and lettuce salad with French dressing Banana compote Coffee Supper Baked beans Steamed brown bread Custards SUNDAY Breakfast Cantaloupe Fish balls Parker House rolls Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 45 Dinner (Company) Consomme Chicken Marengo (served in small casseroles) Green corn on cob Fried summer squash Dressed lettuce Cream cheese Bar-le-duc Peach ice cream Coffee Supper Crab and tomato salad with mayonnaise Rolls (reheated) Grape juice punch MONDAY Breakfast Sliced peaches Uncooked cereal and cream Scrambled eggs Toast and coffee Luncheon Fried tomatoes on toast Hot gingerbread Cottage cheese Tea Dinner 1 Corn and tomato soup Baked shoulder of lamb with currant mint sauce Green peas and pimientos Mashed potatoes Peach ice cream Coffee 46 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK TUESDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Creamed chicken on toast (chicken left from Sunday) Muffins Coffee Luncheon Lamb broth Baked corn custard Popovers Cake Cocoa Dinner Steak a la Stanley Baked potatoes Lima beans Spinach salad Spanish cream Coffee AUTUMN MENUS OCTOBER WEDNESDAY Breakfast Pears and grapes Hominy and cream Plain omelet Popovers Coffee Luncheon Cream of rice soup Toasted crackers Cold ham with lettuce salad Bread and butter folds Cocoa Dinner Clear soup with spaghetti Roast veal (loin) JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 47 Sour cream gravy Mashed potatoes Scalloped eggplant and tomato Romaine salad Chiffonade dressing Apple pie Cheese Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Cream toast Boiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Scalloped eggs and potatoes Fresh rolls Sliced peaches Tea Dinner Cream of tomato soup Croutons Cold sliced veal Baked potatoes Creamed cauliflower Spanish cream Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Grapefruit (removed from shell) Creamed ham on toast Rolls (reheated) Coffee Luncheon Sardines with potato salad Toast Cocoa Dinner Boiled cod Hollandaise sauce 48 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Potato rissolees Buttered beets Cabbage and celery salad Baked caramel custard Caramel sauce Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Cooked cereal with cream Fish hash Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Creamed veal in mashed potato border Hot biscuits Fruitcake Tea Dinner Fish soup (Swedish) Broiled steak French fried potatoes Baked stuffed onions Celery Cold cabinet pudding Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Grapes Hominy and cream Fish balls Parker House rolls Coffee o S-, ?% Q si JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 49 Dinner Consomme Olives Celery Rolled fillets of flounder creamed Lobster sauce Roast lamb Currant jelly Roasted potatoes Creamed turnips Peach ice cream Coffee Supper Lobster salad Ripe olives Bread and butter sandwiches Cake Coffee MONDAY Breakfast Sliced pears with cream Poached egg with cream Coffee Dinner Casserole of beef stew Lettuce and tomato salad Steamed fig pudding Foamy sauce Supper Cream of corn soup Crisp crackers Lettuce and beet salad with mayonnaise Hot biscuits Gingerbread Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal (uncooked) 50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Sliced bananas and cream Corn muffins Bacon Coffee Dinner Boiled tongue Plain boiled potatoes Scalloped cabbage Beet and green pepper salad Brown Betty Coffee Supper Eggs and celery Creamed potatoes Baking powder biscuits Preserved figs Cake Tea WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Minced lamb on toast Muffins Coffee Dinner Cream of cabbage soup (made from left-over scalloped cabbage) Salmi of lamb Stuffed baked potatoes Fried eggplant Prune whip Custard sauce Supper Cold tongue Potato salad Rolls Baked pears with Bangor Brownies Tea THURSDAY Breakfast Stewed figs Uncooked cereal JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 51 Baked eggs Corn muffins Coffee Dinner Cream of pea soup Baked sliced ham Turkish pilaf Green string beans Orange and mint salad Custard souffle Supper Cheese pudding Popovers String bean and pimiento salad Cocoa shells Cake AUTUMN MENUS NOVEMBER SATURDAY Breakfast Baked apples with cream Buckwheat cakes Maple syrup Coffee Luncheon Minced lamb on toast Baked potatoes Fruit Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup Veal cutlets in casserole Scalloped tomatoes Lettuce and cream cheese salad Pumpkin pie Coffee 52' THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SUNDAY Breakfast Oranges Hominy and cream Baked sausages Waffles Coffee Dinner Clear soup Roast capon, giblet gravy Cranberry relish Southern sweet peppers Baked stuffed potatoes Caramel ice cream Cake Coffee Supper Milk rabbit Olives Pickles Lemon sticks Tea MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs with bacon Muffins Coffee Luncheon French toast Chocolate Dinner Creole soup (using remainder of peppers and stuffing) Meat balls, curried rice Peas Onion salad Bread and butter pudding Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 53 TUESDAY Cake Breakfast Stewed apples Date muffins Coffee Luncheon Cold chicken Hot rolls Asparagus salad Dinner Broiled lamb chops Delmonico potatoes Green string beans Orange salad Cheese souffle Coffee Tea WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges, sliced Minced chicken on toast Coffee Luncheon Summer hot pot Gingerbread Tea Dinner Cream of pea soup Roast loin of pork Apple sauce Roasted potatoes Creamed onions Prune souffle Coffee 54 THE. PURE FOOD COOK BOOK THURSDAY Breakfast Sliced bananas Oatmeal and cream Bacon Eggs to order Coffee Luncheon Cream of onion soup Crisp crackers Pear salad, cream mayonnaise Rolls Cocoa Dinner Chicken soup with rice Cold roast pork (gravy reheated) Browned sweet potatoes Baked squash Apple fritters, vanilla sauce Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Creamed codfish Johnnycake Baked potatoes Coffee Luncheon Salmon salad Popovers Baked custard Tea Dinner Plain tomato soup Baked cod, oyster stuffing 55 Mock hollandaise French fried potatoes Lettuce salad, chili dressing Toasted crackers Cheese Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Bacon omelet Muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped fish Steamed brown bread Sliced oranges Cookies Tea Dinner Mock pork Hot rolls Fruit salad Crackers Cheeese Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples with cream Fish balls Brown bread Waffles Coffee Dinner Consomme with noodles Roast beef, horseradish sauce Roasted potatoes Boiled buttered onions Molded tomato salad Crackers Cheese 56 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Cold cabinet pudding Coffee Supper Chicken salad Lettuce sandwiches Chocolate nut wafers Preserves Tea WINTER MENUS DECEMBER FRIDAY Breakfast Stewed apricots Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs Buttered toast Coffee Luncheon Sweet potato toast Apple sauce Cookies Tea Dinner Boiled halibut Hollandaise sauce Potatoes with parsley String beans Apple pie Cheese Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Bacon Creamed potatoes Coffee Luncheon Stuffed sweet potatoes JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 57 Biscuits Preserves Tea Dinner Braised tongue, caper sauce Mashed potatoes Parsnip fritters Creamed lima beans Mock cherry pie Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Cream toast Coffee Dinner Beefsteak with onions Mashed potatoes Squash Celery and nut salad Orange ice Angel cake Coffee Supper Sweetbread in ramekins Rolls Preserves Marshmallow cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Cereal Poached eggs on toast Coffee Luncheon Breaded tongue, tomato sauce Scalloped potatoes Cake Tea 58 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Flank steak en casserole Apple and celery salad Lemon jelly with soft custard sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Grapes Uncooked cereal Creamed dried beef on toast Coffee Luncheon Cream tomato soup Doughnuts Cheese Tea Dinner Mutton chops Griddled sweet potatoes Peas Brussels sprouts Rice pudding Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Cereal Sausages Rolls Coffee Luncheon Corn soup Crisp crackers Toasted English muffins Marmalade Tea Dinner Meat loaf with hard cooked eggs JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 59 Mashed potatoes Spinach Lima beans Prune souffle Coffee CHRISTMAS DAY Breakfast Grapefruit Baked sausages Waffles, syrup Coffee Christmas Dinner Oyster cocktails Brown bread folds Pimolas Ripe olives Clear consomme, garnish of pimiento stars Roast goose, potato stuffing (garnish of fried apple- rings and sausages) Candied sweet potatoes Boiled onions Dinner salad Crackers Cream cheese English plum pudding, brandy sauce (Garnish with holly and send lighted to table) Vanilla ice cream with red bar-le-duc currants Cakes, candies, nuts, and raisins Apollinaris Black coffee Supper Eggs creole (chafing-dish) Toasted crackers Olives Fruit cake Tea FRIDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Broiled bacon Corn muffins Coffee 60 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Italian Polenta Baked apples Tea Dinner Baked whitefish Boiled potatoes Cold slaw Scalloped tomatoes Mince turnovers Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs Toast Coffee Luncheon Cream toast Cake Chocolate Dinner Cold roast goose Stuffed potatoes Creamed celery Cream cheese and currant salad Fruit Coffee WINTER MENUS JANUARY SUNDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates French toast Coffee Puree of Tomato. Recipe on Page 118. A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving Relishes. JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 61 Dinner Veal with sour cream gravy Mashed potatoes Celery Olives Mushrooms in cream Charlotte russe Coffee Supper Oyster stew Rolls Caramel nut cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Sausage pats Baked potatoes Rolls Coffee Luncheon Cream of corn soup Crackers Tea Dinner Roast lamb Potatoes baked in pan Green beans Turnips Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Apple sauce Fried fish Corn muffins Coffee 62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Cheese and nut salad Spice cake Tea Dinner Cottage pie with sweet potato crust Cauliflower Shell beans Lemon jelly, soft custard Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Minced lamb on toast Coffee Luncheon Sweet potatoes and apples Biscuit Molasses drop cakes Tea Dinner Boiled ham Mashed potatoes Celery Scalloped tomatoes Fig pudding, hard sauce Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Grapes Eggs a la goldenrod Coffee Luncheon Sardines Sliced oranges Oatmeal cookies Tea Dinner Macaroni soup Cold ham Scalloped potatoes Spinach Corn Pineapple tapioca Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Oranges Griddle cakes with syrup Coffee Luncheon Ham in ramekins Muffins Cocoa shells Dinner Southern tomato soup Baked haddock French fried potatoes Jellied vegetable salad Cheese straws Indian pudding Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Broiled bacon Muffins Coffee 64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Split pea soup Croutons Preserves Cake Tea Dinner Veal loaf with mushrooms Boiled rice Celery Escalloped tomatoes Apple turnovers Cheese Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Oranges Baked beans Brown bread Fish cakes Coffee Dinner Roast beef Mashed potatoes . Carrots and peas Apple and date salad i Chocolate ice cream Sponge cake Coffee Supper Scallops a la Newburgh Biscuits Grape marmalade Tea MONDAY Breakfast Grapes Fried mush with syrup Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 65 Luncheon Baked bean soup Apple sauce Cocoanut cake Tea Dinner Beef and vegetables in casserole Romaine, French dressing Jellied walnuts Chocolate cake Coffee WINTER MENUS FEBRUARY TUESDAY Breakfast Oranges Cereal Buckwheat cakes Coffee Luncheon Creamed codfish with cheese Oatmeal muffins Maple apple sauce Cookies Dinner English beef soup Ham and macaroni timbales Cole slaw Chocolate blancmange Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapefruit 66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Uncooked cereal Creamed dried beef on toast Coffee Luncheon Chicken salad Preserves Cake Chocolate Dinner Roast lamb Mashed potatoes Peas Carrots Apple mint jelly Indian pudding Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Baked bananas Sausages Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Lettuce sandwiches Jumbles Tea Dinner Consomme Cold roast lamb French fried potatoes Celery relish Shell beans Apricot trifle Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Uncooked cereal Poached eggs Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 67 Luncheon Hashed lamb with English walnuts Pickles Chocolate cake Tea Dinner Finnan haddie baked in milk Boiled potatoes Tomatoes Asparagus salad Valentine cakes Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates Muffins Coffee Luncheon Omelet Toasted English muffins Orange marmalade Tea Dinner Hamburg steak Scalloped potatoes String beans Corn Lemon jelly Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Apples Uncooked cereal 68 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Broiled bacon Toast Coffee Dinner Roast duck Mashed potatoes Onions . Celery Apple sauce Mince pie Cheese Coffee Supper Pineapple and grapefruit salad Graham nut bread Marshmallow cake Cocoa MONDAY Breakfast Oranges Broiled ham Baked potatoes Rolls Coffee Luncheon Potato soup Date loaf cake Tea Dinner Cold roast beef Mashed potatoes Turnips Cabbage and apple salad Steamed chocolate pudding Creamy sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Grapes JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 69 Fried fish Biscuits Coffee Luncheon Rice waffles with maple syrup Grapefruit Tea / Dinner Duck soup Vegetables en casserole Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapes Hamburg steak Baked potatoes Coffee Luncheon Potato puffs Maple apple sauce Nut cookies Tea Dinner Baked fresh ham Potatoes Cauliflower Spinach salad Orange sherbet Cocoanut cake Coffee BREAD By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. HE term bread to the American means a product made of white flour. I am not an enemy of white flour, but I am a friend of whole wheat flour. There are many brands of white flour. For practical purposes in the kitchen we need only consider flour for bread making and for pastry making. The difference between these two classes of flours is chemical and correspondingly physical. Bread making flours are those which have a high content of very sticky gluten. This characteristic favors the entangling of bubbles of gas produced in the leavening process and their subse- quent expansion held in the meshes of the gluten to make a porous bread. In pastry the leavening process is of less importance and hence a flour with a smaller content of gluten, a less sticky kind, may be employed. Or, again, a flour of second grade containing a great deal of what is known as middlings may be very useful for pastry making, especially when the whiteness of the fin- ished product is not a matter of very great importance. White flour is the typical product for bread making in the United States. In Germany and Russia rye is the principal source of bread, and rye is used among our own foreign-born citizens to a large extent. Indian corn ranks next to wheat as a source of bread supply in the United States. This is especially true in the border 71 72 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and southern states, where a meal without corn bread is considered incomplete. There is no very great differ- ence in the nutritive properties of the different cereals. Indian corn has less protein and the protein is less suitable for very young children. Oat flour has the largest amount of protein, and it is quite suitable for nutritive purposes, though it does not rank high as a bread maker. Barley, rye, and buckwheat occupy in- termediate positions. So important is bread that it is a synonym for all food. It is called by the poet " the staff of life." Bread making should be an art which every cook should learn. With the same raw materials two cooks will turn out products so different in character as to be hardly recog- nized as kin. The French and Austrians make the best bread among the nations of the earth. The characteris- tics of the loaf are largely brought about by the amount of manipulation, the kind and setting of the yeast, and the speed and completeness of cooking. Most of us like a bread which is largely crust. The long, so-called French loaf may very properly be called the " staff of life " as it might be used for a walking stick. Bread, that is to say cereals, is the ideal food. It is ideal both by reason of its economy and because of its nutritive properties. The cook should learn especially to make the so-called brown breads, which are not only palatable but highly wholesome. It is a mistake to feed a family nothing but white flour bread. It is both a dietetic and a nutritional mistake. Nevertheless white flour bread will continue to be, perhaps for many years, the prin- cipal kind of bread used by large numbers of people, hence the methods of making it in the right way are of supreme importance. In connection with the subject of bread, it is well that Cream Scones. Recipe on Page po. Sally Lunns. Recipe on Page Rusk Squares In an Attractive Porringer are an Acceptable Dish for the Invalid. A Service for the Breakfast Orange that is Most Popular where the Fruit is Grown. BREAD 73 attention should be called to leavening agents. There are three methods for leavening bread. First, the me- chanical method, which consists in the admixture of air or carbon dioxid in the kneading of the dough. This method has been highly praised because of the fact that it introduces no foreign substances into the loaf. It requires, however, machinery and as a rule is not avail- able for family purposes. The second method of aeration consists in the use of yeast. Yeast-made breads are generally the best, whether eaten cold, as is advisable in most cases, or in hot rolls, which are perhaps the most delicious of the bread products. Good yeast, skillfully employed, produces from the sugar of the flour equal quantities of carbon dioxid and alcohol. Both of these are in a gaseous form when the bread is baked and are active in the aeration process. Only small quantities of these bodies are formed and the alcohol is rapidly dis- sipated during the process of baking and on standing. Even the strictest prohibitionist may not refuse to eat yeast-raised bread because it may contain a mere trace of alcohol ! Good yeasts also add a distinctive and de- sirable flavor to the loaf. The third method of aeration is all too common be- cause of its cheapness and speed, namely, the use of leavening powders. These " baking powders," so-called, x are of three general classes ; first, those made with cream of tartar, as the acid constituent of the powder; second, those made with phosphoric acid, or acid calcium phos- phate, as the acid reagent, and third, those in which alum furnishes the acid ingredient. There, is a great differ- ence of opinion respecting the excellence and wholesome- ness of these classes of powder. We all have our in- dividual preferences and as all of these powders are on the market, and usually correctly labeled, there is no 74 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK reason why everyone should not be able to secure the one he wants. All of these leavening agents leave min- eral residues in the finished loaf. The cream of tartar powders leave a residue of rochelle salts, that is, a double tartrate of sodium and potassium. The phosphate powders leave a residue of sodium phosphate and the alum powders leave a residue consisting of aluminum hydrate and sulphate of soda (glauber's salts). In my opinion, the ingestion of any considerable quantities of any of these ingredients is objectionable. Personally, I prefer the cream of tartar powders; others prefer the phosphate powders, and some believe the alum powders to be no more objectionable than the others. " You pays your money and you takes your choice." JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD HE first and most important " must-have " is good yeast. I have come to depend almost wholly and with the most perfect trust on compressed yeast. If your grocer keeps yeast at all, it will be fresh, the manufacturer sees to that, as the stock of each day is renewed and the old yeast cakes are taken away. Still, if you keep it yourself for a few days in a refrigerator it will not spoil. Yeast which is moist, light colored, and of " reviving smell," as an old lady I know expressed it, is all right. If it gets dry, brittle, streaky, and smells the opposite of " reviving," throw it away ; better lose two cents than twenty cents' worth of flour, with fire and labor added. Be very careful of the heat of the water in which yeast is softened. If you have a thermometer, let the water be sixty-eight degrees; if you have to trust to your hand, let it be very surely no more than lukewarm. Then the flour it is an invariable rule to use bread flour when yeast is to be added. Bread flour will make tolerable pie or cake, but pastry flour will not make good bread. If, as occasionally occurs, you have flour whose nature you cannot determine, use the following test : take a handful and close the fingers tightly over it. If it remains in a soft velvety lump, even after the fin- gers are loosened, it is pastry flour. Bread flour will be dry and loose, it will not keep in shape. According to the time at your disposal, allow sufficient yeast for raising. For instance, if bread is wanted made 75 76 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and baked in four hours, two yeast cakes would have to be allowed to the recipe I have given. There is no danger, should compressed yeast be used, of its tasting in the bread. This is called the quick-raising method. In a temperature of about sixty-eight degrees it will be ready to mold two and a half hours from the time it was set. It will be quite as good bread as that made after the slow-raising method, although I think the latter will keep moist for a longer time. I have heard many housewives complain of bread souring. Bread sours only because of two reasons uncleanliness in the making or the utensils, or because it was allowed to stand too long after mixing. When that occurs, the yeast has done its work completely, and the dangerous bacteria get in their work, exactly in the same way as at the point where cider changes to vinegar. I have found, too, that in hot weather milk bread will sour much more quickly than if bread is mixed with water. Then there is the dry bread, with a heavy feel- ing about it, both to the touch and to the palate. Usually this is caused either by too much flour being worked into the dough or by heavy-handed kneading. Bread, like cake, pastry, cookies, and biscuit, has a point where just enough flour has been added and where no more ought to go in. This amount it is almost impossible for a recipe maker to determine, because there are so many flours and the wetting capacities of two are hardly ever alike. It is a case of experience. A practiced hand can tell almost the instant when enough flour has gone into bread by a certain springy feeling. Then tip it out and begin kneading. It may seem moist, but it is not moist enough to stick if you intervene with well-floured fingers between the dough and the cloth. Knead quickly and lightly; a heavy hand which pounds bread instead JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 77 of molding it will soon thump all the life out of it, and the bread will have the texture of cheese. Bread Put four tablespoonfuls of shortening, either butter and lard mixed or one of the good fats on the market, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt into a bread-raiser, and pour over it one quart of boiling water. Place one yeast cake in half a cupful of luke- warm water and stir with a teaspoon till softened. When the water in the bread pan becomes lukewarm, pour in the yeast and stir thoroughly. Add five cupfuls of sifted bread flour, beating it as it goes in with a wire whisk. When it becomes too thick to move with the whisk, use a slitted wooden spoon and stir thoroughly, so that the flour and wetting may become well mixed. Add flour enough to knead. When it is spongy but not dry, turn it out on a well-floured molding cloth and knead. It is the kneading that gives it the satiny smoothness and the elasticity which are invariable tests of good bread. It ought, even during this process, to begin to show bubbles in its texture. Knead them out, as much as possible. When dough is put back in the pan to rise with bubbles showing here and there, it will be full of holes and poor of taste when baked. After the kneading is finished and the dough. feels as smooth as silk, wash the bread-raiser and dry it, then rub well inside with butter or lard before putting the dough back again for the second raising. In the morning, when well risen, cut it down. By this process I mean cutting the light spongy mass through and through half a dozen times and then turning it over and over to check fermentation for a short time. The cutting takes only a minute or two, and one can feel 78 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK that if it is not attended to for half an hour, the bread will not sour. It does not hurt it at all if it has to be cut down a second time. When ready to care for it, toss on the floured molding board and knead again slightly this time till every air bubble disappears, then put it in greased pans, having each one about half full. Cover lightly, set in a warm place, and allow it to double its bulk before putting to bake. This recipe will make four good-sized loaves. The oven, to give satisfactory results, ought to be quite hot when the bread is first put in. If you bake it in a gas stove, the best plan is to light both burners seven or eight minutes before the bread goes in. Set it on the bottom shelf, then allow it to rise to double its bulk and begin to brown very slightly. Turn out one burner and finish the baking in a cooler oven. This does away with any fear of burning; it bakes the bread perfectly and gives a much nicer crust than if the oven is very hot all the time. The management of dampers in a coal or wood stove will give the same results. According to the size of your loaves, bread will require from forty-five to sixty minutes to bake well. On taking it from the oven set the loaves on a wire stand or sieve to cool. Never wrap them steaming hot in a towel. Frequently one tastes the cloth in which bread has been wrapped, or the soap with which the cloth was washed. Besides, it shuts the steam up in the loaf, making it damp and .clammy, a sure medium for the cultivation of mold. Allow the bread to become perfectly cold before putting it away in the bread-box or jar, then keep it closely covered. Swedish Biscuit One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of lard, three table- spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half JUST HOW- TO MAKE BREAD 79 of a compressed yeast cake. Over hot water, scald the milk and set it aside to cool, adding to it the lard, sugar, and salt. When it is lukewarm stir in sufficient flour to make a batter, then beat in the yeast cake which has previously been softened in a little sweetened water. Add enough more flour to make a batter as stiff as you can stir. Cover, and set in a warm place for the night. In the morning work into the dough a piece of soft butter as large as the piece of lard, and if eggs are plentiful the biscuits are improved by working in an unbeaten egg, but this is not necessary. Knead upon the molding board, adding flour until it ceases to stick. When shaping them use just as little flour as possible, and make into round balls either by working on the board or by flouring the hands and rolling between the palms. Place in a drip- ping pan, an inch or more apart. Cover the pans with paper and set dough to raise. As they raise they will gradually flatten out. When light and fluffy bake in quick oven. This will make about three dozen biscuits. Coffee Cakes These coffee cakes are made from the same dough as the Swedish biscuits, except that a little more shortening, than is directed, is worked in, in the morning. When ready to shape them stir enough powdered cinnamon into about three tablespoonfuls of sugar to give it a brownish color. Take a piece of dough two-thirds the size of a biscuit and roll it either on the board or be- tween the hands, until you have a long round strip like a pencil, six or seven inches in length. Drop it lightly upon the board, coiling it round and round, and then lightly drop it into the cinnamon and sugar, and from 8o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK there .to the pan to raise. Bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. Bread Puffs Knead raised bread dough and roll three-fourths of an inch thick. Cut in squares, rounds, or strips, and fry in deep fat hot enough to brown a bit of bread in 60 counts. Parker House Rolls Put one-half cake of compressed yeast to soak in one- half cupful of lukewarm water. In a mixing bowl place four cupfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one of lard, and two cupfuls of boiling milk. When lukewarm, add dissolved yeast, stir well, and set in a warm place to rise, adding sufficient flour to make a soft dough. After the dough has risen to double its size, form into rolls, adding no flour at this time, but rubbing the ringers and board with the butter, if necessary, to prevent it from sticking. Roll one-half inch thick, cut with a small biscuit cutter, then roll each biscuit to make them oblong in shape, spread with a little butter, fold over, and place on the baking pan. Let them rise before baking. If mixed in the morning, knead at noon. This quantity will make three dozen rolls. Pennsylvania Dutch Bread Four cupfuls of soft bread sponge, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar (or a little less), one cupful of currants 8i and raisins (seed the raisins), two eggs beaten separately, and enough flour to make stiff. Do not knead, but stir with a wooden spoon, then set it to rise, and when twice its original size, bake in two bread pans. HE family of hot breakfast breads is a large one. The raised roll appears often because the bread raised with yeast is almost always welcome, and as home-made bread is made as often as two or three times a week, it is very easy to save a little of the dough before its last raising for the morning roll. This is accomplished by reserving part of the dough when putting into the pans. Set away in a well-greased bowl, covered closely, and keep in the refrigerator until early the next morning. Then the cold dough is made into rolls, placed in pans, and put in a warm place for half or three-quarters of an hour, when they will be quite Jight and ready for the fifteen or twenty minutes' baking in a rather hot oven. If these rolls are brushed with melted butter just before they go into the oven, it will insure a rich tender crust. A little butter and a very little sugar and occasionally an egg are often worked into the dough when making into rolls, as this secures a rich roll. Wherever clarified fat is suggested for uses in the place of butter, double the quantity of salt should be used. The drop biscuit and the split rolls are suggested for use at luncheon, afternoon tea, or for supper, in the place of a sandwich. These, if filled with a salad may- 82 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK onnaise mixture, or any good sandwich filling, will prove a most satisfactory and dainty substitute for the bread sandwich. Sally Lunn At ten or eleven o'clock cream four tablespoonfuls of butter, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, then two yolks of eggs, beaten, one teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of milk. Now add one-half a yeast cake dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water and three cupfuls of flour. Beat well, add the two whites beaten stiff. Put in a buttered, round pan with a center tube. In the morning bake in a moderate oven half an hour. Cover with maple sugar boiled down to almost a candy. This will form a crisp crust and be delicious. Ragga Muffin Roll bread dough out in thin, long strips, spread them with a hard sauce of butter and sugar creamed together and flavor with vanilla, nutmeg, or cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and raisins, roll up and cut into buns. When light, bake and glaze over with sugar and hot water. Graham Crisps Mix two cupfuls of graham flour with one teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of water. Roll out rather thin. Cut into rounds. Put a layer on a greased pan, brush them with melted butter and put on another layer, pinch edges together, brush again with butter, prick clear Ragga AI tiffins. Recipe on Page 82. Parker House Rolls. Recipe on Page 80. JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 83 through both layers in several places and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Raised Split Rolls In the evening, perhaps just after dinner, take one cup- ful of hot potato, which has been pressed through a coarse sieve the potato may be either boiled, steamed, or baked and mix it with two tablespoon fuls of lard and the same of butter both soft, but not melted. Now add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-half cupful of tepid milk, add one tablespoonful of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one egg yolk, well beaten. Stir well and sift in one and one-half cupfuls of flour. Beat again and add egg white beaten stiff, and place bowl in a warm place until sponge is light and double in bulk ; then add enough flour to knead, but use as little flour as possible. About ten o'clock roll out very thin, less than one-quarter of an inch, cut with finger biscuit cutter, place on well-buttered tin and brush each one with melted butter. Put another layer of biscuit on top of these, brush tops with melted butter, cover and set in very cool place until morning. Then put the biscuits in a warm place to rise. When double in bulk again this will take about half an hour bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. The secret of their success is to roll them very, very thin. Entire Wheat or Graham Muffin Mix one cupful of flour, one cupful of entire wheat or graham flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three and one- half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful 84 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of butter or clarified fat, melted. Add one cupful of milk and one egg beaten separately. Half fill buttered muffin pans and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Entire Wheat Pancakes Mix one cupful of entire wheat with one-half tea- spoonful of salt and two teaspoon fuls of baking powder, thin with milk, add egg yolk, beaten; then, the last mo- ment, the white beaten stiff. Bake on a griddle. Raised Muffin To one cupful of scalded milk and one cupful of boiled water add three tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- fuls sugar, and one teaspoonful of salt. Cool and add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-quarter cupful of warm water, one egg yolk, and three and one-half cupfuls of flour. Then fold in the egg white, beaten stiff. Beat well, cover, and let raise until morning. But- ter muffin rings, fill half full, let raise half an hour, and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Buckwheat Cakes Soak one-third cupful of fine bread crumbs in two cup- fuls of scalded milk thirty minutes ; add one-half teaspoon- ful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one-half cupful of water, and real buckwheat to make a batter thin enough to pour. In the morning, stir well, add one JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 85 tablespoonful of molasses, one-quarter teaspoonful of soda in one-quarter cupful of lukewarm water, and bake on a griddle. Save one-half cupful of the mixture for " seed." This " seed " should be put in a glass jar, cov- ered, and put on ice or in a cool place until required again and then used in the following manner : Put two cupfuls of water or milk in a bowl at night: add enough buck- wheat to make a thin batter, then add the " seed." Cover and put in a warm place to rise. In the morning add salt, molasses, and soda and a little bread flour, if neces- sary, to make batter the right consistency. These should be baked as soon as the soda is put in. One tablespoonful of maple syrup improves them if added just before baking. Use the old-fashioned buckwheat flour. Apple Johnnycake Very few people have ever heard of this old-fashioned dish, apple Johnnycake, which is always an acceptable addition to the breakfast menu. Make as follows : One cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, one tablespoonful of melted butter or shortening, one cupful of cornmeal, and two-thirds of a cupful of flour sifted together with one-quarter of a tea- spoonful of salt. Cut into small pieces four apples and stir well into the batter. Bake in a quick oven. Nut Bread Sift together four cupfuls of flour and four teaspoon- fuls of baking powder. To one-half of this, add one cupful of chopped walnut meats and half a cupful of 86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK raisins. Now beat together three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and one egg. Add the sifted flour, then the flour containing the nuts and raisins. Put it in two well-greased pans, let it stand about twenty minutes, and bake for nearly an hour in a moderate oven. Custard Corn Bread Four cupfuls of boiling milk, and three cupfuls of cornmeal. Stir the meal into the milk as for mush, add one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, and let this cool. When cool add two well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake as other corn bread. Rough Robin Six cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of rice flour, one cup- ful of lard or butter, one cupful of sugar, three cupfuls of currants, three cupfuls of Sultana raisins, three tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of ground caraway seeds, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub the butter or lard into the flour and rice flour, add the sugar, baking powder, salt, spices, and fruit. Mix with buttermilk to make a stiff batter. Turn into a large buttered and floured cake tin. Bake slowly for two hours. Bishop's Bread Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one cupful of raisins, one cupful of split, unblanched almonds, two cupfuls of 8; flour, two teaspobnfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon- ful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. Beat the eggs and sugar until very light. Then add flour, soda, and cream of tartar, and lastly the nuts and raisins. Spread in thin sheet on but- tered tin, and cut in small oblongs or squares before it is cold. Hominy Spoon Bread Beat one egg light without separating, add one-half cupful of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and two cup- fuls of boiled hominy. Make a smooth mixture and pour into a baking dish. Put a few small pieces of but- ter, measuring one rounded teaspoonful in all, over the top and bake in a moderately hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes. It should be firm and of a golden brown color when done. Boiled rice may be used in place of hominy if desired. The bread should be brought to the table in the dish in which it is baked, and served with a spoon. Buttermilk Biscuit To one cupful of buttermilk add one-half teaspoonful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter or shortening, and sifted flour to make a dough. Knead until smooth and elastic as for light bread. Roll out one-half 'inch thick, cut out, and bake in a quick oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Buttermilk Spoon Biscuit One quart of buttermilk, one teaspoonful each of soda and salt, two tablespoonfuls of soft butter or shortening, 88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem pans and bake in a quick oven. Peanut Butter Pinwheels Sift, then measure two cupfuls of flour. Sift again with one-half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Work into this two tablespoonfuls of shortening and mix to a dough, stiff enough to roll, with milk. About three-fourths of a cup will be needed. Roll out lightly into a strip one-half inch thick, spread with a very thin layer of softened peanut butter. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut in half-inch slices. Put them on a buttered cookie sheet or biscuit tin so they will not touch. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. One cupful of cream, two cupfuls of sour milk or buttermilk, one-half cupful of sugar, one well beaten egg, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda. Thicken to a stiff batter with one part of white flour to two parts of rye. If sour cream is used, add another half teaspoonful of soda. Bake in gem pans in a quick oven. Sour Cream Biscuit One cupful of sour cream, one-half cupful of sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and flour to make a soft dough; about one quart. Handle as little as possible, roll thin, and bake in a hot oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Note: If there is any doubt about the state of sourness of the milk and Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. Rolling and Cutting the Dough. Peanut Butter Pinwheels. Page 88. JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 89 cream, add three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, as if sweet milk were used. Brioche Cakes Add one-fourth cupful of sugar to one cupful of scalded milk. When lukewarm add one-third yeast-cake softened in warm water, then add one and one-half cup- fuls of flour, and let rise. When bubbly, add two eggs, beaten, one-fourth cup melted butter, one-fourth tea- spoonful of salt, the grated rind and juice of half a lemon, and one and one-half cupfuls more flour. Cover and let rise until light. Mold on a board to horseshoe shape and let rise again. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Sally Lunns Four cupfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of butter, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one yeast cake, two eggs, half a cupful of milk, and water. Crumble the yeast cake into a cup, put with it one teaspoonful of flour and sugar. Half fill the cup with lukewarm water, stand in a warm place for a quarter of an hour. Sift into a bowl the flour, salt, and sugar, rub in the butter. Pour the yeast into the center of the flour, and the eggs well beaten, milk, and enough lukewarm water to make a very soft dough. Mix and beat well with a wooden spoon, set in a warm place to rise for one hour. Grease three round cake tins, place the mixture equally in these. Stand in a warm place till risen to the top of the tins. Brush over with beaten eggs. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. They should be 90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK lightly browned all over. Stand a minute before turning out. They may be buttered and eaten fresh, but are usually split in three and toasted when a day old. Cream Scones Sift two cupfuls of flour with three teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Mix with one-fourth cupful of butter, then one-half cupful of cream with two beaten eggs. Mix lightly, cut in tri- angles, and bake in a hot oven. Buckwheat Cakes Pour a pint of boiling water or milk on half a cup of fine cornmeal ; add half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well, and when lukewarm add half a cup of white flour, one cup of buckwheat flour, one-fourth cup of yeast or one softened yeast cake. Beat vigorously. Let it rise over- night. In the morning stir down and beat again. When risen and ready to bake, add one saltspoonful of soda, sifted through a strainer. Beat again, and fry in large cakes. Buckwheat cakes, even if not really sour, usually require the addition of soda just before baking, to make them light and tender. They should be eaten only in very cold weather, and but seldom even then. They taste better and brown better when made with boiling milk in- stead of water. Graham Gems One-half cupful of good syrup or brown sugar, one cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 91 teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter (melted), graham flour enough to make a stiff batter. Mix in the order given, and bake in hissing-hot gem-pans. Spider Corn Cake Sift together three-fourths of a cupful of cornmeal, one-fourth cupful flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of soda. Beat one egg until light ; add one cupful of sour milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, and combine with dry ingredients. Turn into a well-buttered iron frying-pan. Pour over the mixture one cupful of sweet milk. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. 92 MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 93 94 MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD RICE By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. ICE is a cereal which is rarely, if ever, used in bread making. It is, however, an important article of diet, consisting largely of starch, and furnishing an abundant source of heat and energy. In order to secure the best, nutritional rice, only unpolished kernels should be used. These, however, are not found very generally on the market because our people seem to have a passion, in cereals at least, for that which is pure white. Rice is often adulterated, that is, it is coated with glucose, talc, paraffin, etc. The purpose of treating rice in this way is to make it look better and thus appeal to the eye of the purchaser and consumer. In doing this, however, it loses often its right to appeal to the nutrition of the consumer. The average content of protein in polished rice is about seven per cent, while the protein of wheat is 12.25 per cent. On the other hand, rice has nearly eighty per cent, of starch, while wheat has a little over seventy per cent. Rice, there- fore, is not to be regarded as the equal of the ordinary cereals, as a builder of protein tissues, but it is superior to them in its power to furnish heat and energy, hence a diet of rice for a hard working man is ideal, because of the amount of heat required to furnish the energy for the labor. People of sedentary habits should be careful, however, not to eat too much rice. 95 96 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The unpolished rice contains about eight per cent, of protein, and more than twice as much fat and mineral ingredients as the unpolished kernels. Recent inves- tigations indicate that vitamins, constituents which are of the greatest importance, are also lost when the outer coating of the rice is removed, and the absence of these and the other ingredients lost in polishing doubtless accounts for the occurrence of beri-beri among people living exclusively on polished rice, thus indicating the value of the materials removed, though the results, of course, are not so dire when rice forms only a part of the menu. Such facts are of great importance, however, in indicating the dangers and losses arising from the manipulation of natural foods and their over-refinement. JUST HOW TO COOK RICE OW comes a time when potatoes are high in price and may soar higher; why wouldn't it be a good plan to use rice sometimes instead of .potatoes rice which is not only a good cereal, vegetable, and dessert, but an unex- celled " left-over "? Rice is most valuable as a starchy food. It has more starch than potatoes, although it has less tissue building material. It has a very slight mineral content and practically no fat. In fact it has less fat than any cereal that we use. It furnishes heat and energy, and is well adapted as a food for those engaged in hard physical labor, or extreme exertion. Rice is not adapted^ on account of the lack of proteid and fat, for a sole article of diet, but it is an admirable carrier for eggs, milk, and cheese, which impart to rice a valuable position in our dietary. In this way, strange to say, rice has come to be called an exclusive food in some Oriental nations, where it is used in combination with condiments to stimu- late digestion, and with eggs, tomatoes, curries, cheese, for their added food value. The Eastern rice has more nitrogenous value than most of the rice grown in America. The rice that we use in America is often highly polished for appearance' sake and is often coated with talc, to render the brown- ish kernels white and attractive. The public should de- mand either the unpolished rice, which has more nutri- tive-value, or insist upon a digestible coating. This 97 98 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK should not only be a nutritive saving but a money one, as the polishing process is an added cost to the produc- tion of American rice. At present, however, unpolished rice is more expensive because of the small demand for it. " It is a disgrace that the most intelligent nation in the world should be so ignorant of the food value of the crops on which more people live than on any other, that they should insist on having their rice made as shiny as polished glass beads, although in so doing they are throw- ing away the best part of it. No rice eating people treat their rice as we do, and it is to be hoped that the small markets that have been started for the unpolished rice will lead to a general propaganda," so said the late Ellen H. Richards, the home economies' leader. Most of the rice used and grown in Louisiana and Texas is Kiusha, from Japan originally, a short kernel which does not break as readily in the polishing process as the long grain, golden Carolinian rice. Buy the best quality of rice whose kernels are not mashed and broken. This is the first step in cooking rice successfully. Al- though there are numerous methods employed, yet every- one seems to agree that rice should be dry, and each kernel separate and distinct. All the Eastern nations like their rice harder than we, even as the Italians think that we cook our macaroni until it is too soft. Perhaps the rice eating people unconsciously feel that if their rice is hard, they are forced to masticate it more thoroughly, and thereby digest it more completely. Cook the polished rice in the following way in order to remove practically all the talc coating. Do not wash first, but place directly into plenty of rapidly boiling salted water. Boil hard twenty minutes, then pour all through a colander and wash the rice in plenty of hot water. When washed, place all in the oven to steam and dry. If Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. Recipe on Page 555. A Chafing Dish and Alcohol Lamp. The Casserole is an Attractive Novelty. Rice Steamed in One of the Newest of Kitchen Novelties: a Rice Ball. Recipe on Page pp. Raised Muffins. Recipe on Page 84. JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 99 washed before being cooked, the talc is not entirely re- moved as it has a tendency to stick on. It is not advis- able to use the water in which this rice was boiled for other cooking. - A rice ball is now made in which the rice is placed raw and the whole put into boiling water. When cooked, the water is drained through the perfora- tions. This rice ball is illustrated. Rice increases from two and a half to five times its bulk in the cooking process, its swelling depending upon the variety of the rice and its age. The older the rice the more water it will absorb. In boiling unpolished rice it must be remembered that it should be washed thoroughly in at least three waters, or put in a strainer and washed until the water from the rice is quite clear; rubbed briskly between the hands ; boiled rapidly, so that the kernels do not adhere to the pot or to each other; and not stirred, else the rice will stick to the bottom of the pot and burn. Do. not cook rice with a cover on the pot. Rice, like other cereals, must be thoroughly cooked, as it takes an appreciable length of time, at least twenty minutes, to render its starch content digestible. The Indian method, after the rice is cooked, is to put it in the oven for about five minutes, with the door open, and allow the moisture to evaporate. Steaming is the best method of cooking unpolished rice, as in this way its scant proteid and mineral content is not lost in the water. If this rice is boiled, the water may be used for soup or sauce, in order to save the nutritive elements which escaped in the boiling process. Steamed Rice Two and three-quarters tablespoonfuls of rice, three- quarters of a cupful of water, one-quarter of a teaspoon- ioo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK ful of salt. Put salt and water in top of double boiler, place on range, and add gradually the well-washed rice, stirring with a fork. Boil three minutes, cover, place over under part of double boiler, and steam forty-five minutes; uncover, that steam may escape. Serve with sugar and cream. Rice when used as a dessert may be cooked with half milk and half water instead of all water. Mexican Rice One-half cupful of rice, washed and drained well. Fry the rice in one heaping tablespoonful of butter until a delicate brown; add to this one-half cupful of strained tomatoes and a little chopped onion. Let this cook for two minutes ; then add one cupful of thin soup stock, salt, and pepper. Cover and let simmer until all the water has been absorbed (about three-quarters of an hour). The rice when done will be perfectly soft, retain its shape, and will be a delicate pink color. Boiled Rice, Japanese Put rice in a basin of water and rub it between the hands, sometimes using the side of the dish as if it were a washboard, and literally scrubbing the rice. When thoroughly rinsed, place in a skillet and pour cold water over it. The water should stand two inches above the rice. Then boil over a moderate fire. When the water is absorbed and the rice soft, put the skillet on the back of the range (cover off) and let all the moisture dry out. The rice should be beautifully tender, perfectly dry, each grain distinct and very hot. (Salt added to the water in which it is boiled is more to the Western taste.) JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 101 Persian " Piloh " One cupful of rice, one tablespoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter, four cupfuls of boiling water. Soak rice an hour in enough cold water to cover, or wash it in different waters until the water no longer becomes milky. Drain, and cook in the boiling salted water fifteen minutes, until nearly soft, leaving dish uncovered. Turn into a colander and pour cold water over it to separate the kernels. Melt the butter and pour into a baking dish ; then turn the butter out into a cup. Put the rice into the buttered bake-dish, pour the melted butter over it, and bake in a moderate oven one hour, leaving the dish uncovered. If rice be covered during cooking, the ker- nels are sticky and water-soaked instead of dry and flaky. If this " Piloh " is to be served with a stew, as is cus- tomary in the Orient, two tablespoonfuls of butter for baking is enough. Baked Rice One cupful of rice, one-half pound cheese, one cupful of milk, one-half of a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne. Boil the rice rapidly twenty minutes, wash, and drain. Grate the cheese. Put a layer of rice in the bot- tom of a baking dish, then a layer of cheese, flavoring with salt and cayenne ; then alternate rice and cheese until you have the ingredients used. Pour in the milk, cover the pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Vegetarian Rice Boil the rice until flaky, wash it, then mold into the shape of a loaf of bread. Cut the loaf in half and insert 102 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK three tablespoonfuls of butter and push together again. Grate strong cheese over the top of the loaf and bake in the oven until the cheese -runs and glazes the top. Serve with asparagus tips in melted butter. Boiled Rice Carolina Method This, perhaps the simplest and easiest of all methods, is the way rice is cooked by the rice planters and rice eaters in the coast country of South Carolina, where the famous Carolina head-rice is grown. Salt three quarts of water and place to boil. Thor- oughly wash and drain one cup of unpolished rice. When the water is boiling briskly, empty the rice into the pot of water. Leave uncovered and keep the water boiling so rapidly that all through the pot the rice is in constant motion. After twelve or fifteen minutes drain all the water from the rice, shake up in the pot once or twice, cover, and place on the back of the stove, or over a faint flame to dry out, until ready to serve. This should take about twenty minutes. Hindu Rice as a Vegetable Wash the rice thoroughly, rubbing the grains between the hands, and using many waters, until all starchiness disappears. Then let the rice soak in cold water for at least fifteen minutes longer if possible. Cut three or four large carrots in long, thin strips, as for soup, and boil them in one quart of water until it is reduced to a pint. Then throw away the carrots and use the water, which will contain their essence, in which to cook the rice. Melt one tablespoonful of butter 'in a double cooker, . JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 103 placing it, for the time being, directly over the fire, let the rice fry in it for a few minutes until it shows a tendency to brown, stirring constantly. Then add the water in which the carrots were cooked, and salt and cayenne pepper to suit the taste. Place the rice cooker in its proper vessel and let it cook until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is well done. Test the rice by pressing a grain of it between the thumb and finger. If it crushes readily, it is sufficiently cooked. The essence of any vegetable secured in the same way as that of the carrots described in this recipe may be used for cooking rice as a vegetable. Thus the flavor may be constantly varied. Cream of Rice Soup To one quart milk add one cupful of cooked rice which has been left from a previous meal when rice, was served as a vegetable. Cook in a double boiler for half an hour, then rub through a sieve. Return to the boiler, season with salt, pepper, and a suspicion of cinnamon. Add one cup of top milk or thin cream, and serve as soon as the soup is thoroughly heated. Be very careful about the cinnamon, that it is only a " suspicion," as too much spoils the flavor of the soup. Baked Rice and Sausages For six persons use one small teacupful of unpolished rice, eight sausages, two quarts of boiling water, one tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Wash the rice in three waters, and then put it into a large stew- pan with the boiling water. Boil with the cover off the 104 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK pan for twenty-five minutes, adding the salt at the end of the first fifteen minutes. When the rice is cooked, drain in a colander. Sprinkle lightly with pepper, using about one-third of a teaspoonful, and then spread in a rather shallow dish. Cut the sausages into slices about one-third of an inch thick and lay them on the rice. Bake in a rather hot oven for twenty minutes and serve at once in the dish in which the cooking is done. Rice Cups Prepare a thick custard by boiling a cupful of washed rice in slightly salted milk ; cook until the rice is dry and tender, stirring in one well-beaten egg, a scant table- spoonful of sugar, a few drops of vanilla extract, and two tablespoonfuls of cream; beat until light and pour into shallow china cups, placing in the ice-box to be- come firm; when cold unmold and, with a sharp spoon, remove a portion of the rice from the center of each cup, filling the depressions with sliced preserved peaches and a little of the syrup ; cover the top with powdered maca- roon crumbs, and after arranging on a baking sheet run into a hot o.ven for about five minutes : serve with thick cream. Carrotina Rice Put one and one-quarter cupfuls of the best rice (picked but not washed) in covered stew-pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half of a tablespoonful of paprika (Hungarian pepper), and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix well. Place, covered, in hot oven for ten minutes, take out, add a good-sized carrot cut into cubes JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 105 (dice shape), and six ctipfuls chicken or mutt6n broth; cook slowly, one or two hours, in a double boiler. Any herbs put in must be removed before serving. East Indian Soup Having had on the previous day a curry of veal with rice border, and finding it difficult to serve any which may remain, the housekeeper will find this a very good soup to use up the meat and rice. Cover that which remains with cold water, adding one peeled and sliced sour apple. Simmer slowly for an hour, rub through a sieve, season more if necessary, with salt and pepper, reheat, and add, at serving, one cupful of hot milk or cream, and one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Tiny cubes of the meat may be reserved, before rubbing through the sieve, and added with the cream. Cheese Cream with Rice Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful of flour, add one cupful of cream, a little salt and pepper, and one-half cupful of cold boiled rice. When boiling add one-third cupful of grated cheese and a generous dusting of paprika. Mustard may be added if liked. Pour this over entire wheat toast, spread with minced ham or tongue. Caramelized Rice and Apple Pudding Caramelize one cupful of sugar in an agate saucepan. Add three cupfuls of boiling water; simmer and stir frequently until smooth, then add half a cupful of thor- io6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK oughly washed rice. Boil for five minutes and turn into a pudding-dish into which have been sliced five -pared cooking apples. Place in a hot oven and stir down fre- quently until the rice is soft. Bake five minutes longer. Serve cold with cream. Iced Compote of Rice and Quinces Put into a double bojler one and one-half pints of milk and a little grated lemon rind. Add, when this boils, one-half cupful of washed rice and a saltspoonful of salt; cook until the rice is tender and the milk nearly boiled away, then stir in the stiffly whipped white of one egg, half a cupful of sugar, and one-half ounce of gelatine that has been dissolved in a little hot water. Allow the mixture to cool, but before it stiffens fold in half a pint of sweetened whipped cream and a few drops of lemon juice; pour immediately into a ring mold and place in the ice-box to become firm. Serve unmolded with the center filled with preserved quinces that have been drained and sliced. Frozen Rice Pudding Boil in slightly salted milk until tender a cupful of washed rice and stir while hot into a pint and a half of rich boiled custard, flavored with vanilla; allow the rice, custard to become cold, and then fold in half a pint of sweetened whipped cream, beaten solid. Turn into a chilled freezer, freezing to the consistency of soft snow, when a large cupful of chopped preserved ginger and two tablespoonfuls of the syrup should be added. Freeze until firm and smooth, and serve in wide-brimmed sherbet glasses garnished with stars of whipped cream. JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 107 Rice Croquettes Wash one cupful of rice through several cold waters and put in a double-boiler with one quart of milk. Cover, and cook until all the milk has been absorbed about one hour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, one of onion juice, a saltspoonful of pepper, and the yolks of four eggs. Mix well and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cylinders ; dip these in an egg beaten with a tablespoonful of warm water; roll in bread-crumbs and fry in deep hot fat. io8 MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE 109 i io MORE WAYS OF COOKING RICE SOUPS By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. OUPS of all kinds except those thickened with vegetables or meats are to be regarded rather as condiments than as foods. They are usually served in this country merely as an introduction to the meal, and for this pur- pose they have a value much higher than that due to the nutriment they contain. For this reason, personally, I prefer what is known as the clear soups, whether of vegetable or animal origin. When soups contain the whole of the vegetable as the pea or bean soups, or when they are simply used as a vehicle for carrying animal or vegetable fats, they lose their special character as soups and acquire the distinc- tive character of foods. A good plate of pea or bean or vegetable soup or mulligatawny, etc., when eaten with bread or with the addition of rice or macaroni, as is done abroad, becomes a square meal, while a cup of clear soup like that extracted from the bones of meat animals, from which the oil is carefully removed, becomes purely condimental. As a rule, I think I can safely say that the American people do not recognize the true value of soups. In many families, soup is seldom served except perhaps when company is present. This, I think is a dietetic mistake. There is scarcely any dinner that may not be made better by being introduced by a palatable soup. in JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS Royal Bouillon To make three pints of rich bouillon, take two and a half pounds of lean beef, that has been finely chopped, and cover with two and a half quarts of cold water, allowing it to stand for one hour; then cover and place on a moderate fire, only just simmering for three hours; remove any scum that may arise; now add one small onion, one carrot, a sprig of parsley, one bay leaf, two cloves, four peppercorns, and two stalks of celery, all cut into dice, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Strain into an earthenware bowl and let cool without covering. When ready to serve, remove any grease and place in a granite saucepan with the white of one egg, stirring until it boils; then strain again through a fine cloth without pressing and serve immediately. Jellied Bouillon For jellied soups use well-made beef or chicken con- somme. Add just enough gelatin to make it jelly slightly, one-half tablespoonful to each pint. Place in cracked ice till needed. Serve in bouillon cups. Mushroom Soup Add one tablespoonful of beef extract to one quart of water. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirred into two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Let simmer, 113 ii4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK stirring; add one can mushrooms (cut in slices) with their liquor. Heat one quart of cream in double boiler. Add just before serving and season to taste. This makes enough for twelve people. Puree Jackson Cook three potatoes and three stalks of celery, cut in slices, in one quart of chicken stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve. Scald one pint of milk with a slice of onion, a blade of mace, and a bit of bay leaf ; strain and add three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, rubbed to a paste ; cook five minutes. Combine mixtures, season to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika. Vegetable Stock The stock is made by boiling a pint of chopped-up okra pods in two quarts of water. Strain them, and set aside for the next day ; then bring to the boiling point, add very young carrots, chopped fine, about half a cupful, about the same quantity of young leeks or the tops of green onions, cut into little bits ; half a cup of green peas, and salt and pepper to taste. Mexican Delight When making the okra stock, above, to be used for the foundation of this soup, add a slice of salt pork or fat bacon, and half a dried herring. Strain before setting aside to cool. Next day, bring to the boiling point, add two sweet red and green peppers, chopped fine; twelve very small okra pods, cut into thin slices ; two thin green onions, also sliced ; half a cup of small green peas. Boil JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 115 twenty-five minutes. Moisten a teaspoonful of curry powder with a little cream, rub to a smooth paste and add. Simmer five minutes. Remove the shell from two hard cooked eggs, chop the yolks and whites separately, and stir into the soup just before serving: at the same time add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. This is always a special favorite with men folks. White Soup White soup we like for the chilly days which come occasionally in the early summer or fall. Put three pints of milk in a double boiler ; add two onions with four cloves stuck in each; three blades of mace; a little lemon peel, cut so thin that it is yellow on both sides ; six peppercorns : bring to the boil, then draw to one side and let it simmer for half an hour. Remove the condi- ments, add a half cup of stale bread, finely grated, and a lump of butter; salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for twenty-five minutes. Spanish Soup Chop three tablespoonfuls of red and green peppers and cook in two tablespoonfuls of flour and butter for five minutes. Add three cupfuls of stock, two cupfuls or a can of tomatoes. Cover this and allow it to simmer for twenty minutes; then strain and add one-half of a cupful of plain boiled macaroni. Creole Soup Wash and cut into slices one-half dozen good-sized turnips, adding half a can of tomatoes, two tablespoon- fuls of sweet red peppers (canned), half a teaspoonful n6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of allspice, one sliced Bermuda onion, a scant teaspoon- ful of salt, four whole cloves, and a large tablespoonful of butter. Place these ingredients over the fire, covering with water, bring to the boiling point, and cook until the vegetables are very tender; now strain and keep hot where it will not boil. Heat a pint of rich milk in the double boiler, thickening with a level tablespoonful of flour moistened with a little cream; be sure that the cream sauce boils ; turn the vegetable puree inlo a heated tureen, stir in a tiny pinch of baking soda to prevent curdling, and very gradually pour in the sauce, stirring constantly. Serve immediately. Southern Tomato Soup To a plain tomato soup made without stock add just before serving two tablespoonfuls of freshly grated horseradish, one teaspoonful of vinegar and one-fourth cupful of boiled macaroni, cut in rings. Cream of Lettuce Soup Remove the hearts from two heads of lettuce and reserve for salad. Finely chop the outside leaves and cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter ten minutes. Add one quart of the liquor in which a fowl has been cooked, one-half an onion, two cloves, one-half tablespoonful of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a few gratings of nutmeg. Cook slowly one hour, and add three table- spoonfuls each of butter and flour, which have been rubbed to a paste. Cook five minutes, add one cupful of rich milk, let boil up at once, season to taste, rub through a sieve and serve at once. JUST HOW TO MAKE SOUPS 117 Crab Soup a la Maryland To one pint of water add one small finely chopped onion, one blade of whole mace, one-half teaspoonful of paprika, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and bring to the boil- ing point; then add one pint of fresh milk, and one pint of fresh crab meat. When the mixture boils, thicken with two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour. Cook two minutes, and add one-fourth cupful of butter, a little at a time, two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and serve unstrained. Swedish Fish Soup Make a stock by putting head, tail, and bones of any white fish, such as cod, haddock, or pollock, on in cold water to cover, adding a slice each of onion and carrot, a bit of bay leaf, a few peppercorns, and cook slowly for one hour. Strain, thicken with butter, and flour, using three tablespoonfuls each, to one quart of stock, season to taste with salt and paprika, and add just before serving a pint of milk, or one cupful of milk and one cupful of cream which has been scalded. A few peas make a pretty garnish, also finely chopped parsley. Lentil and Tomato Soup Wash a quart of lentils and put them into a large saucepan with four quarts of cold water. Add four small onions, each stuck with two cloves, two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, half the rind of the lemon, four large sprigs of parsley, six or eight red peppers, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and the same quantity of granulated sugar. Cook ii8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK gently until the lentils are very soft. Then add a dozen small tomatoes cut into quarters. . Boil for a quarter of an hour longer, or until the whole is soft enough to put through a coarse sieve. Strain into a hot dish and add some tiny pieces of butter on the top of the soup. Crackers or dice-shaped croutons should be served with the soup. German lentils will greatly increase the nourishment in the soup and it will also be of a richer color. Any kind of meat stock instead of water may be used to boil the lentils. Mock Oyster Soup Peel and cut into cubes two small oyster plants and cover with cold water, seasoning with a scant teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, one bay leaf, and a cupful of chopped celery tops; cook until the oyster plant is very tender, and then press through a puree sieve. Reheat in a granite saucepan, pouring in two cupfuls of boiling milk, and stir in a tablespoonful of butter; serve very hot, ac- companied by oyster crackers. Puree of Tomato To one can of tomatoes and one pint of stock add a small onion, chopped, a blade of mace, and a level tea- spoonful of salt. Cook ten minutes in a saucepan, then add two level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch moistened with a little cold water, and cook five minutes longer. Strain through a fine sieve, reheat, add a drop of tabasco and a half-cupful of good cream. This will serve six persons. One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of flour, one table- spoonful of butter, one head of celery, a large slice of onion, and a small piece of mace ; boil the diced celery in one pint of water for thirty or forty minutes ; heat mace, onion, and milk together ; mix flour with two tablespoon- fuls of cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Add but- ter, season with salt and pepper to taste, then add celery and let simmer about two minutes ; then strain and serve immediately. The flavor is improved by adding one cup- ful of whipped cream when soup is in the tureen. Cream of Corn Soup One can corn, one pint boiling water, one pint milk, one slice onion, two tablespoonfuls butter, two table- spoonfuls flour, one teaspoonful salt, few grains pepper, one-half cup thick cream. Chop the corn, add water, and simmer twenty minutes; rub through a sieve, scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Thicken with butter and flour stirred together. Heat, add salt and pepper, and when very hot, just before serving, add one- half cupful of thick cream. 120 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS ./V' MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS 121 122 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SOUPS EGGS By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. HE value of the egg as a food product is not fully appreciated. Eggs are often used be- cause they are so conveniently and so easily cooked and also because when properly pre- pared they appeal to the appetite. A person who eats an egg, however, should not forget that it contains very essential food ingredients in an ideal condition for nutrition. The white of an egg, though largely water, contains a pure protein, in the form known as albumen, which not only is a splendid protein-tissue builder, but also lends itself easily to di- gestion. The yolk of the egg contains not only protein, but also almost an equal amount of fat. In addition to these valuable food products, it is very rich in phosphorus and lime, two of the elements so necessary to the build- ing of the bones. The yolk also contains phosphorus in a peculiarly valuable form, which is known to the chemist as lecithin. While of late the egg has not been an economic diet, it continues to be one of the most valuable armaments of the table. The various attractive forms in which eggs can be served, therefore, appeal particularly to the con- sumer from the nutritional point of view. 123 JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS HEN eggs are their cheapest and best, in May or early June, and before the really hot weather has come, the wise householder will put away, in water glass, a liberal quantity. If possible, " put down " enough to carry the family through the months when eggs " soar." If carefully packed, and if there are not more than three or four dozen in a crock, and again if they are kept covered with the water glass, they will keep well. The present writer is now using the first of a hundred dozen thus stored, and finds them good, not only for cooking, but for omelets and scrambled eggs. These particular eggs cost, including water glass, twenty-two cents a dozen. Thus it seems only necessary for us as housekeepers to look ahead a bit, and there would be less need of " egg- less " cookery. The nourishment to be obtained from eggs is so desirable, that it is a pity to be under the necessity of economizing in eggs. Repeated tests at the various state experiment stations have demonstrated that eggs properly packed in water glass after three and one-half months still appeared to be perfectly fresh. For in most packed eggs the yolk settles to one side (a sure test of an egg not fresh laid), but when packed in water glass, the yolks remained in their original position as when fresh ; they lost no weight ; they would " beat up well " for cakes or f rostings ; and 125 126 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK would keep four weeks after removal from the preserva- tive solution. In other words, water glass adds no flavor to the eggs, and takes away no flavor from them.- Dr. Wiley is authority for the statement that the shell of an egg preserved in water glass is apt to burst in boil- ing water. The trouble may be avoided by pricking the shell carefully with a needle. When eggs are cooked in water below boiling, I have experienced no trouble with their breaking. Water glass or soluble glass is the popular, name for potassium and sodium silicates. Commercial water glass, often a mixture of both silicates, is much cheaper than the chemically pure article, and is just as efficient for preserving eggs. It is sold in two forms, a sirup thick as molasses, and a powder. The cost varies. Water glass sometimes sells as low as a cent and three-quarters a pound in large quantities. The retail price is commonly ten cents a pound. Some of the water glass is extremely alkaline in reaction. Eggs preserved : n such water glass will not keep well, so pur- chase as nearly neutral water glass as possible. However, it is perfectly safe to use the ordinary commercial water glass, provided the dealer understands for what purpose it is purchased. It is true that lime water may be cheaper and just as effective as a preservative, but the water glass is far preferable from the standpoint of flavor. To Preserve Eggs in Water Glass If the following directions are carefully observed, fresh eggs may be eaten during the winter months at approximately June prices : Use clean receptacles of glass, earthenware, wood or of most any material, if same is paraffined inside, and can JUST HOW TO PRESERVE EGGS 127 be sealed hermetically. I found one-half gallon screw- cap glass jars, which will hold fourteen or fifteen eggs, most satisfactory; and in every way advisable. Common silicate of soda or water glass, a sirup thick liquid, gives good results. It should be kept well sealed by paraffined or vaselined paper, pasteboard or cork stopper, or other cover impermeable to air and moisture, to prevent it from hardening. Glass stoppered bottles, however, should not be used, as a little silicate may find its way to the ground neck, and it will be impossible to remove the stopper, later on, as silicate of soda will cement the stopper to the neck of the bottle. The water should be pure, boiled water being prefer- able. One part of silicate of soda should be very thoroughly mixed with ten parts of water. The eggs must be clean, with strong, sound shells, but they should not be washed, as this removes some of the natural mucilaginous coating. They should- be put into the preserving fluid, if possible, the same day they are laid, especially in summer, but this is not imperative. Unfertilized eggs are not likely to spoil, even if they are not so fresh. However, it is one of the strongest points of this preserving method that fertilized eggs will keep perfectly well, if the above precautions are taken. (In- cubation is said to start on fresh, fertile eggs, if they are kept for about twenty-four hours at a temperature of at least 80 degrees F., but if the proper incubating tem- perature about 102.5 degrees F. is not reached soon and maintained, the egg germs will die and cause the eggs to decay.) Hence the necessity for immediate im- mersion in the case of fertilized eggs. As soon as the eggs are packed in the preserving liquid, the receptacle should be carefully sealed with a 128 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK paraffined or vaselined paper or pasteboard, or with a screw cap or other reliable and tight cover. This is necessary not only to prevent water from volatilizing, which would finally expose the upper eggs to the atmos- phere, but also to prevent the carbonic acid of the air from decomposing the silicate. The eggs packed in well-sealed jars should be stored in a cool place, especially at first, that is, before the egg germs have lost their vitality. However, the temperature must not drop below the freezing point. JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS HY is it I can never get an egg cooked to suit me in my own house ? " asks many a man. Because, oftentimes, the egg is put into cold water, and the time is then noted, but even when the egg has been in the water the re- quested number of minutes, it has not been cooked at a sufficiently high temperature for a sufficiently long period. The difficulty is to obtain uniform results, many factors affect the result: the size and age of the egg, the size and kind of utensil and its position on the stove, the temperature of the egg (an egg from a refrigerator takes, of course, longer to react to heat) and the amount of water. The table-cooked egg is probably the surest, in obtaining uniformly cooked eggs. Taking all these possible conditions into account, the best way to cook or " boil " an egg is not to boil, but to cook it below the boiling point, say at about 180 to 190 degrees, F., because the egg albumen is toughened and rendered leathery and indigestible when submitted to JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 129 the boiling point of 212 degrees, but remains jelly-like, though firm, at the lower range of heat. Soft cooked eggs should be cooked, below boiling point. Following is a test made in the laboratory of the University of Illinois : " Using a granite-ware stewpan of one-quart capacity, one pint of water was heated over a gas flame ; when the water boiled the gas was turned off, and an egg, which had been kept in a refrigerator, was dropped into the water. Without disturbing the vessel, it was covered closely and the egg allowed to remain in the water six minutes." It was then cooked soft. When the egg was dropped into the water the temperature fell immediately to 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and then slowly to' 170 de- grees. If the egg remained in the water eight minutes it was medium-cooked, the temperature of the water at the end of the period having fallen to 162 degrees. Hard-" boiled " eggs should be cooked for forty-five to sixty minutes at 180 to 190 degrees, or they will be tough and not mealy. If cooked below boiling point they will be more easily digested. Should the shell crack, pierce several small holes with a pin to keep contents from flowing out. Good results with soft cooked eggs can be obtained if attention is given to details, and if the cook will only remember the experience gained the last time she cooked an egg in the same way. It is a safe rule, if one does not have a thermometer, to keep the water below boiling point. A double boiler is a splendid device for just this process, as the water may boil below, while above it can be kept below the boiling point. It is best, however, not to let the water boil even in the lower saucepan. In preparing for an egg dish of any sort, first break the egg by a swift stroke of a knife into a dish that is 130 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK not to be used for the mixing. Then if by mischance the egg is not up to the mark, it can be discarded and will not spoil the rest of the mixture. For poached eggs, have the water a little below 212 degrees, by pouring boiling water from a saucepan into the shallow pan, which has been brushed over with oil or butter. Break the egg carefully into a cup and slip gently into the water, thinking all the time of having it float, so lightly must it be transferred. The egg quickly reduces the temperature to 185 degrees, which is correct for poaching an egg. The top of the yolk should be kept slightly emerging from the water. Let the egg cook gently. Spread some water over the egg with a spoon and when a film has formed over the yolk and when the white is firm, lift each out with a skimmer, drain, smooth the edges with a knife, if necessary, and place on hot toast, which has been prepared beforehand. If the eggs are fresh and cooked correctly, they will not need trim- ming. Put a piece of butter, some pepper and salt on the egg, and serve hot on very hot plates. When properly poached the egg is jelly-like throughout and the yolk is covered with a white film. Egg poachers and muffin rings are often used for poaching eggs. Salt and vinegar are oftentimes put into the water to prevent the soluble albumen from being dissolved. This also adds flavor to the eggs. Half a teaspoonful of vinegar for six eggs will be sufficient. Poaching eggs is no easy matter. Even a hotel chef will admit this; but a little care will bring good results. The varieties of poached and boiled eggs reach the hundreds. The eggs are cooked with cream, sauces, anchovies, and combined with truffles, mushrooms, cheese, sausages, etc., etc. The following recipes are variations of the "boiled" and poached egg: JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 131 Deviled Eggs a la Fromage Cut the desired number of hard-boiled eggs into halves, taking out the yolks and leaving cup-shaped pieces. Mash the yolks to a paste, adding an equal quantity of rich cream cheese, a saltspoonful of paprika, half a tea- spoonful of salt, a little minced parsley, and two table- spoonfuls of cream; fill into the halves and arrange on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, garnished with stuffed olives. A New Deviled Egg Six hard-cooked eggs, one lemon, one box of sardines, melted butter. Take the yolks out of the eggs, after cutting in half mix with the sardines, season with salt, paprika, and lemon. Add melted butter and put back in the white of the egg, which is used as a mold. Egg Plums Dip some hard-boiled eggs for two days in grape juice, to color them ; then stick a twig of plum leaves in one end of each. By the use of artificial leaves, one may serve " egg plums " at any season of the year. Serve cold as an hors d'ceuvre. Eggs Bollerino Poach eggs, and make a cream sauce. Chop six or eight mushrooms, add to the cream sauce and place a small sausage, cooked and split in half, on the toast be- fore placing the egg upon the round. 132 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Poached Eggs with Creamed Celery Arrange poached eggs in a circle on rounds of hot but- tered toast; fill in the center of the circle with two cup- fuls of celery, cut into inch lengths and cooked in boil- ing water until tender (about two hours), then stir it into one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce. In making the sauce use the water in which the celery was cooked for one half, and the other half cream. Ham and Spanish Eggs Serve poached eggs on thin slices of broiled or fried ham. When served on hot, highly seasoned steamed rice, they are called Spanish eggs. Eggs Poached in Tomatoes Stew slowly for ten minutes half a can of tomatoes and one small onion, cut fine. Season highly with salt and pepper and butter. Break six eggs into a bowl with- out beating, and when everything else is ready to serve, slip them into the hot tomatoes. Lift the white care- fully with a fork, as it cooks, until it is all firm; then prick the yolks and let them mix with the tomato and white. The mixture should be quite soft, but with the red tomatoes, the white and yellow of the egg, quite dis- tinct. Serve at once on toast. Hamburg Eggs Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- fuls of soft bread crumbs, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley, seasoning to taste with salt, paprika, and celery salt. Work all to a smooth paste, and with it line small JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 133 individual patty pans that have been brushed with melted butter ; break an egg carefully into each, and, after dust- ing lightly with salt, cover with a mixture of melted butter and browned bread crumbs, cooking for six min- utes in a hot oven. Serve in the pans garnished with parsley. Whole Eggs with Smoked Beef Hard cook six eggs, let them stand in cold water until cold, and then carefully remove the shells. Heat three cupfuls of milk in a double boiler. Mix one egg with two tablespoonfuls flour and an equal amount of water until smooth. Pour a little of the hot milk into it and stir quickly, then stir the whole into the remainder of the hot milk for a minute. Add a dash of pepper and set the saucepan on the back of the stove. Season to taste with salt, add the whole eggs and about a third of a half-pound jar of smoked beef to the sauce. Heat through but do not let mixture boil after salt is added. Eggs and Cheese Cream Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two of grated cheese and one teaspoonful of minced parsley or chervil. When cheese is melted add four eggs, well beaten, a little salt and paprika, a dash of nutmeg, and one-half tea- spoonful of French mustard. Dust with paprika and serve on toast. Poached Eggs in Milk or Cream Butter an egg poacher and half fill the pan beneath with boiling water. Break in the required number of 134 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK eggs, and as soon as they begin to grow firm, add two tablespoonfuls of milk or cream. When firm, place upon rounds of buttered toast and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Garnish with parsley. Scrambled Eggs, Crisfield Take two or three spoonfuls of flaked crab meat, warm it in cream, beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, season to taste with salt and pepper, place in a buttered omelet pan, then throw in crab flakes and cream and scramble while cooking. This is sufficient for two. Scotch Eggs Divide one cupful of sausage meat (one-half pound) into four equal portions. Remove four hard cooked eggs from their shells and cover them with the sausage meat. Roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry a golden brown in hot deep fat. Cut the eggs through the center and serve on rings of toast. This quantity will serve four. Bread, Eggs, and Bacon in Chafing Dish Cut fresh white or entire wheat bread into half-inch slices, remove crust, and cut in half-inch cubes. Put one tablespoonful of butter in the chafing dish, add three cupfuls of the bread, and toss it in the butter until it has absorbed the butter and is slightly colored. Add four tablespoonfuls of bacon fat and a dusting of salt and pepper. Toss again, and when the fat is absorbed add three well-beaten eggs, and as soon as they are slightly JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 135 cooked serve, surrounded with bacon, which has baked or delicately sauted. This breakfast dish will serve four. Eggs au Gratin Remove shells from five hard-boiled eggs, and cut into small pieces. Make a thick and richly seasoned milk gravy, and fold in the eggs. Fill six green pepper shells with this, sprinkle grated cheese and bits of butter on tops, and brown in oven. Serve on chop plate, and gar- nish with watercress or parsley. Eat hot, with toast sticks, made of bread cut into long strips, which have been browned in deep fat, seasoned, and drained, but kept hot. Baked Eggs with Cheese Butter a baking platter and cover it with a layer of grated cheese ; break six eggs upon it, cover with a layer of cheese and dust with salt, pepper, and paprika. Pour over it half a cupful of cream, cover with soft bread crumbs, rolled in melted butter, then dust with salt, paprika, and a light sprinkling of mustard. Bake until cheese is melted. Piquant Scrambled Eggs Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces, add a slice of chopped onion, and cook in boiling salted water until tender; drain, dredge lightly with flour, and saute in butter until brown. Beat four eggs, add three table- spoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of paprika, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley ; pour 136 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK into the pan containing the celery and cook, stirring con- stantly, until the whole is a light, creamy mass. Serve on triangles of hot toast, garnishing with watercress and a few grilled sardines, if liked. Belmont Eggs Brown some slices of bread in the oven. Do not toast them but lay them in a rather hot oven till slightly brown. Moisten in warm salted milk and butter them. Break eggs carefully one at a time into a cup and slip into simmering salted water one inch deep in a saucepan. Toss the water over the yolks till a delicate pink. Slip on to the toast, one to a slice, and surround with chopped meat heated in butter. Eggs a la Golden Rod Cook four eggs for forty-five minutes, and when they are cold shell and dice them; meanwhile prepare a rich cream sauce by adding to one and one-half tablespoonfuls of melted butter the same quantity of flour, when thor- oughly blended add two cupfuls of hot milk; as soon as the sauce boils season it highly with salt and paprika, adding the eggs and a heaping cupful of grated cheese; cook only until the cheese is melted and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast. An English Egg Select a small, firm tomato. Cut out the stem end and scoop out the seeds and soft center. Sprinkle with salt and turn upside down to drain. Then sprinkle with pepper and finely chopped parsley. Break a raw egg into JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 137 the tomato and add salt and pepper. Arrange the pre- pared tomatoes (not too close together) in a buttered pan and place in a hot oven for a few minutes. Cheese Timbales Beat four eggs slightly, add one cupful of milk, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, ten drops onion juice, and one-half cupful of grated cheese. Pour into buttered cups or timbale molds, set molds in a pan of hot water, and bake until firm. They may be tested as any baked custard, by putting the point of a knife into the center of the custard. If it comes out with no custard clinging to it, the timbale is done. Remove from mold to a hot platter, and serve with a cream of tomato sauce. Cereal Omelet To one cupful of any cold cooked cereal add two well- beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of paprika, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan, turn in the mixture, and cook with moderate heat until firm. Fold, turn out upon a hot platter, and garnish with bacon. Rice Omelet One cupful of cold boiled rice, one cupful of warm milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one level tea- spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, three well-beaten eggs. Melt one tablespoonful of butter 138 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK in a hot frying-pan, and pour in the mixture. Bake in a hot oven ; fold over once, and serve on a hot platter. Cheese Custard Cut bread into slices one inch thick; remove crusts, and cut into cubes. Butter a baking dish, and put in a layer of bread cubes, then a layer of grated cheese ; pro- ceed until two cupfuls of cheese have been used. Mix together one beaten egg, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one and one-half cup- fuls of milk. Pour over cheese, and bake until nicely browned. Serve at once. Omelet Lattard One cupful of eggplant cut in dice, one cupful of bacon cut in dice, one-half cupful of apple cut in dice. First place a piece of butter in a pan. When melted add the bacon, the eggplant, and then the apple in succession, so that they will all be cooked tender at the same time. Season with salt and pepper. When done, take them out of the pan with a perforated spoon or skimmer, so as to leave the butter in the pan. In the meanwhile beat the five fresh eggs, adding a tablespoonful of cold water (not milk or cream) and seasoning to taste. Proceed to make the omelet in the pan containing the stock in which the above ingredients were cooked. As soon as the eggs begin to harden, throw in the garniture of eggplant, bacon, and apple. When the omelet comes to a satisfactory turn, fold, dish out, and serve, adding over it a little of the residue in the pan, if there be any. JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 139 Potato Omelet Beat the yolks of three eggs very light. Season one cupful of mashed potatoes with one saltspoonful of salt, one-half cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of sifted flour, a little chopped parsley, pepper to taste, and a little lemon juice, if liked. Beat the yolks of the eggs into this, then the well beaten whites. Heat an omelet-pan, butter, and when piping hot, pour the potato omelet into it. Brown lightly, turn, and serve very hot. Spinach Omelet Make a French omelet, using four eggs, four table- spoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and pepper. Have the omelet pan hot, put into it one table- spoonful of butter, and turn in the egg mixture. As the egg sets, lift with a knife, never allowing it to become hard. When nearly all the egg is firm, begin to fold the omelet; turn onto a bed of spinach, and serve at once. Any left-over spinach may be reheated with cream and butter and be used for this omelet. Bacon and Potato Omelet Cut three slices bacon in tiny dice and fry until crisp. Add to fat and bacon dice two cold boiled potatoes, cut in small cubes, and season well with salt and pepper. Beat two eggs slightly, pour them over the bacon and potatoes. Cook until the eggs are set, then fold like an omelet. Eggs in Baked Potatoes Scrub and bake six large potatoes. When quite done, prick to let out the steam, then cut off the tops length- 140 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK wise of the potatoes. Remove the potato, mash, and season. Use plenty of milk, two tablespoonfuls or more of butter, salt, paprika, and a grating of nutmeg. Half fill the potato shells with the mixture and arrange in a baking pan. Break six eggs, and slip one into each potato case. Cover with grated cheese and buttered seasoned crumbs and bake in a moderate oven until brown and the eggs are set. Ripe Olive Omelet Beat four eggs slightly, add four tablespoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoon ful of pepper. Heat three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in an omelet-pan, add the egg, and as soon as it begins to set, lift, letting the uncooked mixture run to the bottom of the pan. Continue until the egg is set but creamy in appearance. Add one-half cupful of ripe olives, cut in strips; fold the omelet, and serve with or without a sauce. For a luncheon dish, however, the following sauce is good : Ripe Olive Sauce Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter; add three table- spoonfuls of flour, and continue the browning. Then add one cupful of brown stock, or one cupful of boiling water and one teaspoonful of meat extract, and cook until thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika, and add one-fourth cupful of ripe olives (cut into small strips), and one tablespoonful each of chopped red and green peppers. MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 141 142 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 143 144 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS FISH By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. OMMONLY, we discriminate in our ideas of animal products between fish, fowl, and flesh. From a nutritional point of view, there is, however, little difference between them. They all are composed essentially of two principal ingredients, namely, protein, which is the ideal tissue builder, and fat, which is the ideal source of heat and energy. But although from a chemical point of view they are of about equal value nutritionally, they appeal in quite a different way to the taste of the consumer. Fish, as a continued diet, would soon pall upon the appetite. It, therefore, should not be used at every dinner. This statement may be modi- fied, however, when we include with fish the shellfish, such as the oyster, the crab, the clam, and the lobster. By reason of the different properties of these foods, it is entirely possible to serve one of them every day at some one of the meals without overstepping the bounds of gustatory propriety. - As foods, fish are quite the equal, weight for weight, with meats, with the exception, of course, of the oyster and the clam, which contain a great deal more moisture than the ordinary fish, the crab, or the lobster. From a nutritional point of view, fish is an unbalanced diet; that is, it consists largely of protein. It is, therefore, proper to eat with fish a highly starchy adjuvant, such as rice, potatoes, or bread. I do 146 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK not mean by this that these should necessarily be a part of the fish course. In my opinion, the best way to eat fish is to eat nothing with it but the sauce, and very little of that. The vegetables and other adjuvants of the meal are best served separately. One important thing about a fish diet is that there are many varieties, such as the herring and the cod and the salmon, which occur in such large quantities as to render them relatively cheap sources of protein. It is true that fish are often sold at a high price through the manipulations of the market at or near the source of supply, but they are the cheapest form of animal food available. Fish, when fresh, should be distinctly fresh, and when cured should be well cured. The intermediate conditions are danger- ous. Those who live near the source of supply can well afford, economically and dietetically, to increase their rations of fish, and all could .profitably increase the amounts of dried fish used. Dried herring, salmon, haddock, and cod, offer a most palatable and economic method of increasing the proteins in the ration, a lesson that our European brothers have learned and applied to their profit. Our American cooks show a painful lack of ingenuity in adapting the less palatable and less ex- pensive fish and meats by skillful cooking and the use of sauces as is done abroad. In Germany classes were es- tablished to teach the art of cooking fish and thus extend and improve the menu at small cost. The fish recipes offered have, therefore, an economic value as well as an interest from the gustatory and nutritional point of view. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH ISH should be a great resource of the house- wife. Its use not only adds another course, another possibility, but variety and delicious- ness to the diet. In buying fish select those showing plainly that they are fresh ; those with bright eyes, firm flesh, shiny scales, red gills, and stiff fins. Beware of one with dull, sunken eyes, dry scales easily loosened, or flesh so soft that it shows an indentation if the finger is pressed against it. Fish is at its best when eaten as quickly as possible after being caught. Frozen fish is perfectly wholesome but should be cooked as soon after thawing as possible, therefore the wise housewife purchases the fish while frozen and thaws it in her own home, rather than to have the thawing done in the fish market. Frozen fish spoils quickly after thawing, so that this is merely a safe precaution. One cannot hope to find firm flesh in fish that has once been frozen, so that this old-time " rule for fresh fish " must be disregarded in selecting fish that are shipped frozen. In buying fish we pay for a great deal of waste ma- terial which has to be thrown away. This amounts in some cases to 70 per cent, of the total weight. So it often proves more economical to buy a solid slice from a large fish at a seemingly high price than to buy a whole small fish at a lower price per pound. 147 148 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Preparation for Cooking Did you ever watch a guide or sportsman prepare a fish for broiling over a wood fire on the shore, or in the woods? The deftness and ease with which he scales and cleans it may be employed with as good results at home. He grasps the fish firmly and scales it first, working from the tail toward, the head. The blade of the knife should be held slightly slanting against the fish, so that the scales fall back on the knife. When necessary rinse the blade in cold water and continue to work until no scales are left. Then split the fish open from the gills half way down the lower part of the body, take out the entrails, and wash the fish carefully inside and out. If the fish is small, as smelts, it may be cleaned by cutting a slit at the gills, bending back the head, and pressing the entrails out through the opening. This leaves the body of the fish in better shape than if it were cleaned in the usual way. When fish are bought in market they are generally cleaned and scaled. If necessary, complete the process, being careful to remove every trace of blood which may have remained on the inside along the bone. Wash the fish under the faucet or wipe it off with a damp cloth and then wipe it dry. The fish is now ready for cooking unless it is desired boned. Any fish may be boned, but those with small bones, such as shad, or herring, are not so frequently prepared in this way as cod or haddock, from which the bones may be more easily removed. Before starting work, rub the fingers over with salt, so that the fish may be held without slipping. Then cut off the head, cut down both sides of the fin on the back the entire length of the fish, and pull off this strip of skin. Loosen the rest of the skin below the head and pull it off, first on one side of the fish JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 149 and then on the other. Now begin at the tail and work toward the head, scraping the flesh from each side of the backbone and removing the backbone and spine entire. A few small bones will probably be left sticking in the flesh, but these may be easily pulled out. The fish is now in pieces, freed from skin and bone, and ready to cook as desired. These strips of fish are called fillets, and may be used whole or cut into small pieces. Recipes often call for fillets of halibut or other large fish. To prepare these cut off the skin which is around the edge of the slice, remove the bone in the cen- ter, and cut the flesh into pieces the right size for in- dividual service. To Boil Fish Unless one has risen early in the morning and gone in a dory to the salmon weir bringing back her fish with her to be broiled for breakfast or boiled for dinner, she has not known what salmon is. Hard and firm as beef- steak, enticing in color, delicate in flavor, this in its real home is a treat. And salmon, because of its texture and the distribution of the oil in its body, is one of the best of fishes to cook by boiling. Boiling in general is a wasteful and tasteless way of cooking fish, but such firm and well-flavored varieties as salmon and bluefish may be cooked in this way. In the cooking of both meats and fish there is a Scylla and a Charybdis to avoid, and a middle course which must be pursued. Two things have to be kept in view in the boiling of fish the effect of cold water and the appearance of the fish. Cold water draws out the juices; boiling water will ccmtract and crack the skin. It is therefore necessary to cook the fish at the simmering point and with care. Place the fish on a fish rack or sheet, or tie in a piece of cheesecloth, and place in hot water to which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice to each two quarts of water or stock. Bring quickly to boiling point, then let it cook at the simmering point until thoroughly done, no longer. Count the time from the moment the water reaches boiling point, estimating from five to eight minutes to a pound, depending upon the thickness of the fish, a thick solid fish taking longer than a slim, more delicate one. The fish is done when the flesh separates readily from the bones. When the fish is cooked lift it carefully from the water, drain, remove cloth, and serve on a folded napkin to absorb any extra liquid from the fish. Garnish with parsley or cress, and slices of lemon or beets, and serve with a hollandaise, bechamel, or drawn-butter sauce. The decrease in nutritive value and flavor when a fish is boiled causes the use of what is called a court bouillon in the place of water. This is merely a stock made by sauteing vegetables, such as celery, carrot, and onion, chopped fine, in butter, adding vinegar, cloves, bay leaf, etc., and boiling with the addition of water until this is well-flavored. The fish is cooked in this, or it may be put in the water and the vegetables, spices, etc., added directly to this for the cooking process. Fish is often marinated before cooking. Brush the flesh over with olive oil and sprinkle it with lemon juice; lay on top, slices of onion and strips of red or green pepper. Drain the fish and cook as desired. Cooked fish which is to be used as a salad is much improved by standing for several hours in equal parts of olive oil and vinegar, a little salt and paprika, and a few drops of onion juice. Drain, mix with salad dressing, and serve on crisp lettuce leaves. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 151 The Baking of Fish The head and tail may be left on a fish that is to be baked. Fill the cavity with dressing, being careful not to get it so full that there will be no room for expansion of the crumbs during cooking. Sew the sides of the fish together over the dressing, using buttered string, so that it may be easily removed when the fish is served. If the fish is lean and dry, lard it as follows: Cut four or five gashes on each side of the backbone and insert in each a strip of salt pork to furnish fat during baking, thus adding juiciness and flavor to the flesh. When the fish is to be served whole it should be trussed in an upright position, if possible. It bakes more evenly, browns better, and is more easily served. It is better to keep a baking dish or pan to be used solely for fish, the fishy taste being more difficult to remove ; or use paper bags. Dredge the fish with salt and pepper; put pieces of salt pork in the pan under and around the fish, but add no water unless needed. The oven should be hot at first, so that the fish will brown in about thirty minutes. Then reduce the heat and bake the fish slowly for a second half-hour, basting it often with the fat in the pan. Slices or fillets of fish are often baked in milk in an earthen dish, and are delicious. The bone may be re- moved from the center of a slice of fish, the cavity filled with dressing, and the top covered with buttered crumbs. Bake for about thirty minutes, and serve with a cream or hollandaise sauce. Small pieces of fish can be cooked with vegetables in a casserole very much as meat is cooked, and are a novelty. The Broiling Process Any small, flat fish may be broiled, or a slice from a large fish used. An oily fish, however, is much better 152 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cooked in this way than a dry fish, as the fat present prevents the flesh from becoming hard. In fact, there are certain fish that connoisseurs say should be cooked in no other way. If a whole fish is to be broiled, remove all scales, and split the fish down the backbone. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and if the flesh of the fish is dry instead of oily, spread it with soft butter or olive oil. Heat a wire broiler and grease it thoroughly with a piece of salt pork. Place the fish inside the broiler, with the thin part in the middle folded over so as to have a fish of even thickness. Hold the flesh side near the heat until browned; turn and brown on the skin side. Broil slowly on the flesh side for about twenty minutes more, then broil on the skin side for ten. Remove from the broiler to the serving platter, garnish, and serve. If the broiling is to be done in a gas stove, the fish may be placed in a greased tin, skin side down, and put under the flame in the broiling oven. Leave the burners on full until the fish is nicely browned; then turn them down as low as possible and let the fish cook for about thirty minutes. A planked fish is prepared in a similar way, except that the fish is cooked on an oiled plank instead of a tin. Before serving, a border of mashed potatoes is piped around the fish and browned slightly in the oven, vege- tables are added, the plank is garnished as elaborately as desired, and sent to the table. How to Fry Small fish or fillets of large fish may be covered with egg and crumbs and fried in deep fat. Wash the fish and dry them thoroughly, being careful not to bruise the 153 flesh. Roll in egg, slightly beaten and diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cold water", and cover with fine bread crumbs. Or, if you prefer, dip the fish in a thin batter. The outside of the fish must be completely covered with something which will cook instantly when plunged into the hot fat. Have enough hot fat in a deep frying pan to entirely cover the fish. Put a few fish in a frying basket at a time and brown in hot fat. Drain on brown paper and serve with tartare or some other as highly seasoned sauce. Extreme care must be taken, especially in frying fish, to cook long enough to be thoroughly done, but not so long that flesh becomes dry and hard. The three points to observe in successful frying are to have the fat smoking hot, a fat-proof covering over the fish, and that after frying the fish should be thoroughly drained before serving. Sauted Fish To saute means to brown first on one side and then on the other in a small amount of fat. Rich, oily fish should not be cooked in this way, as they are already too rich in fat, which changes in flavor if allowed to cook from the fish and become overheated. Wash the fish and wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, cover with Indian meal or white flour. Cook some salt pork in a hot frying pan until the fat is well tried out. Put in the fish and let them cook until nicely browned on both sides. Be careful not to have the fire so hot that the fish will burn before it cooks through. Halibut in Lemon Sauce Three pounds of halibut, cut into pieces, four inches long and one inch thick, two onions, medium size, sliced 154 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK thin, two cupfuls of water, three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful each of ground ginger and mace, and one-eighth teaspoonful of red pepper dissolved in one cupful of boiling water, one cupful of strained lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, three eggs, one-half cupful of canned tomatoes. Wash the fish, then salt it, let it stand for two hours ; take the water, onions, and oil, and boil until the onions are cooked, then pour this into a bowl. Put the fish in a saucepan, pour the onion mixture over the fish, also the dissolved spices and tomatoes ; boil until the fish is cooked. Beat the eggs and flour together, then add the lemon juice, pour a little of the gravy that is on the fish into this, beat well so that the eggs will not curdle, pour this on the fish and let it simmer for a few minutes, place the fish on a platter, and the sauce in a gravy bowl. Set aside to cool. Any fish can be used, but it will not be as rich. Baked Halibut From a slice of halibut about four inches thick, care- fully remove the bone and spread the fish apart. Fill the hole with bread dressing seasoned with butter, salt, a very little onion and sage. Cover the top with thin slices of bacon. Place on a rack in a baking pan with a little water and baste until baked. Set the bacon aside, and when ready to serve, place around the fish. The bacon will burn if left on the fish until baked. Thicken the gravy and serve separately. Mexican Codfish Saute to a pale yellow a small onion chopped fine, in three tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoon- JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 155 fuls of flour, half a green pepper minced, and a cupful of stewed and strained tomato pulp. When the sauce reaches the boiling point, add half a pound of flaked cod- fish that has been slightly freshened in cold water, and parboiled ; simmer slowly for ten minutes, and serve very hot, garnished with triangles of fried bread. Planked Salmon with Potato Balls Have the salmon cut in steaks one and one-half or two inches thick. Two steaks of average size can be placed on a medium-sized plank. Oil the plank thoroughly, place the fish upon it, and broil under a gas broiler, turning the flame low after the first few moments. Or it can be baked in the oven of a range. Serve on the plank, surrounded by potato balls cut with a French vegetable cutter. Heat one-fourth cupful of cream, add salt and pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley. Shake the potato balls in this until well covered with the seasonings. Serve hollandaise sauce with the planked salmon. Baked Salt Mackerel Soak one large mackerel over night, drain and rinse in clear water. Place in a well-buttered casserole with the flesh side up. Or better still, cook the mackerel in a well-buttered paper bag. Cover the fish with two table- spoonfuls of melted butter and sprinkle well with finely grated bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper or paprika. If the mackerel is not baked in the paper bag add two tablespoonfuls of water, being careful not to get it on top 156 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of the mackerel, which would destroy its crispness. Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are brown and the fish flaky and white. Serve on a platter with thin slices of lemon. Baked Halibut, Spanish Style Have a slice of halibut weighing two pounds cut three inches thick. Place in a buttered pan, cover with one cupful of tomatoes (canned, or three fresh ones), one thinly sliced onion, one chopped green pepper, salt, pep- per, one cupful of water, and one-fourth cupful of but- ter. Bake slowly until fish is done, and serve with the vegetables. Codfish Puff Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one pint, add one pint of codfish picked in small pieces. Place in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring slowly to boiling point. Drain off this water, cover with boiling water, and cook until the potato is done; drain and mash fine. Melt one tablespoonful of butter, add the same amount of flour and rub smooth ; add one and one- half cupfuls of milk, then the fish and potato mixture, and cook five minutes. Cool, add the beaten yolks of three eggs, then the beaten whites, turn into a buttered baking dish, and bake slowly thirty-five minutes. Serve immediately as for any souffle. Salpicon of Codfish Prepare rounds of crisp buttered toast, covering each with a layer of minced button mushrooms, season highly JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 157 with salt and paprika, and heap upon each toast circle a tablespoon ful of flaked boiled codfish; place in a shal- low baking pan, pour over a rich hollandaise sauce and bake in a moderate oven until heated through. Serve immediately, garnished with crisp, blanched celery. Creamed Codfish Soak over night some good salt codfish. In the morn- ing, drain, and cut into small pieces. To one cup of fish add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into cubes. Season with salt and pepper, and add cream enough to cover. Cook slowly one-half hour. The cream thickens by evaporation, and the potatoes and fish are very deli- cate prepared this way. Serve with fresh tomatoes, dressed with oil and vinegar, in the season of tomatoes. Salmon Jelly Salad Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatin in two tablespoonfuls of cold water; add half a cupful of boil- ing water, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tea- spoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. Strain and place the bowl in ice water; stir until it begins to stiffen, then add one cupful of cold flaked salmon, half a cupful of finely cut celery, and two table- spoonfuls of peas. When stiff enough, fill small indi- vidual molds, which have been wet with cold water, and chill. Turn out upon lettuce leaves and garnish with mayonnaise. Salmon Shells Remove all skin, bones, and oil from a one-pound can of salmon. Break into bits. Add a chopped boiled 158 THE PURE FOOD COOK &OOK egg. Add one cupful of bread (one day old). Stir into thickened cream, a cupful for this amount. Fill green pepper shells. Top off with butter, and bread or cracker crumbs. Bake till brown, and serve. Parisian Salmon The salmon -should be cut if possible from the middle of the fish in rather thick slices. After it is washed and dried, wrap it securely in cheesecloth and let it sim- mer until tender in soup stock, to which have been added a bay leaf, two chopped onions, a stalk of celery, one diced carrot, and some parsley, then drain and place on a hot platter, pouring over the following sauce : Place in the upper part of the double boiler a cupful of milk, adding, when hot, half a teaspoonful of meat extract, salt, and celery salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of corn- starch dissolved in a little cold water; be sure the sauce boils at least twice, and then stir in a cupful of asparagus tips. Serve garnished with a border of mashed potatoes and a tiny circle of green peas. Salmon Salad A can of salmon makes a delicious salad if used in any of these combinations: a few finely cut capers and a stalk of celery; a diced cucumber, and a quarter of a Bermuda onion finely shaved; two tomatoes sliced, and four small cucumber pickles, minced finely. In all these the salmon is marinated, broken into pieces, and the mayonnaise dressing, in which the vegetables have been lightly tossed, is poured over one large mound of salad or individual small ones. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 159 Molded Mackerel Clean and cut a small mackerel in thick slices. Place in a kettle, cover with three cupfuls of cold water, and add one slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf, two whole cloves, and six peppercorns (whole pepper) ; simmer for an hour. Remove the fish and separate into pieces freed from skin and bones. To the liquor in which the fish- was cooked, add one tablespoon ful of gelatine, which has been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Season with salt and pepper. Strain into molds, which have been wet with cold water, placing pieces of the mackerel in the bottom. Chill, unmold on lettuce leaves, and serve with the following sauce : Beat one- half cupful of cream until stiff, add two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one tablespoonful of vinegar. New England Fish Chowder Select a good haddock or cod. Cut in small pieces. Slice a two-inch cube of salt pork into strips, place in a stew pan, and fry out the fat. Remove the pork, and put in a layer of fish, then a layer of sliced onions, and alter- nate in this way until all the fish is used. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with pepper and salt, and boil for half an hour. Have ready some crackers, which have been softened by soaking in cold water, butter each cracker a little, then put them in the chowder just before serving. Fish Stew Clean and cut into pieces any variety of fish, includ- ing clams or lobster or use again any cooked fish. Allow 160 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK a half-pound for each person. Place in a casserole a cupful of oil, with an onion, two tomatoes, a tablespoon- ful of finely chopped parsley, three crushed cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, some fennel, a little orange rind, a pinch of saffron, and a dash of cayenne pepper; place over a brisk fire for three minutes; then add the fish, the firmest pieces first ; cover with boiling water, allow to boil hard for twelve minutes. Pour the bouillon over slices of toasted bread. Serve the fish with bones re- moved, in a separate dish. Cream of Fish Soup Whenever one has boiled fish, or perhaps baked fillets of haddock, the head and bones should be saved. Put into a kettle, cover with cold water, add a slice of onion and carrot, a bit of bay leaf, and cook slowly for an hour. Strain off the liquor, and for each quart add two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together. Boil five minutes, season with one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and add one cupful of thin cream. Let this boil up once, season more if neces- sary, and, just before serving, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley. Sometimes one might have a few peas left from dinner, and they may be added to the soup, or a tablespoonful of carrot dice, giving a touch of color, as well as adding flavor. Broiled Oysters a la Francais Butter ten scallop shells and place four or five oysters in each. Mince one large onion, and half a clove of JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 161 garlic, and cook in five tablespoonfuls of butter until a delicate brown. Add oyster liquor, with a half-cupful of water, one cupful of crisp bread crumbs, and one tea- spoonful of minced parsley ; season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix thoroughly and fill scallop shells. Dot them with bits of butter and place shells on a tin sheet. Broil quickly and serve at once. Scalloped Oysters Crush a dozen unsweetened crackers and put a layer in the bottom of a well-buttered bake-dish. Wet this with the liquor of the oyster juice, and milk warmed together. Then add a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and white pepper, and dot with bits of butter. Then add another stratum of the moistened crumbs, and pro- ceed in this order until the dish is full. The topmost layer should be of crumbs and thicker than the rest. Beat the yolk of an egg into what is left of the oyster liquor and milk, and moisten the uppermost layer with this. Stick bits of butter thickly all over it and bake, cov- ered, for half an hour. Then uncover and brown lightly. There is no more delightful preparation of oysters than this. Savory Shrimps in Chafing Dish Melt one tablespoonful of butter in the blazer and add two or three drops of onion juice; add one cupful of cream and one cupful of boiled rice. Shred one can of shrimps, which have been well washed in cold water, and add to the mixture. When thoroughly heated, add 162 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK half a cupful of tomato catsup. Season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve on crackers or toast. Crabs and Shrimps, Spanish Style For this purpose use the best quality of canned shrimps or crabs, if fresh ones are not obtainable. Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter with one of minced green pepper, one-half teaspoonful of minced onion, and one table- spoonful of chili sauce, or tomato catsup, until brown. Put away until required. Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one of flour, add one-half cup of rich milk, and when boiling add the green pepper mixture, one- half cup of shrimps, and the same of crabs, or use but one of these and a few fresh mushrooms cooked in butter. These could be cooked in the chafing-dish pan before making the sauce. Crab Rabbit Prepare this on the chafing dish and have the toast made beforehand. Melt three teaspoonfuls of butter, and add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook this well, then add one and one-fourth cupfuls of cream, and cook until it is thick, not allowing it to boil ; season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a little minced parsley; add to it one and a half cupfuls of chopped, boiled crab meat; when it is well heated add three tablespoonfuls of Parmesan cheese and two teaspoonfuls of Worcester- shire sauce. Flaked Crab Meat in the Chafing Dish Utilize the contents of a can of crab meat and with a silver fork flake it into small pieces, adding two chopped JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 163 hard cooked eggs, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, and salt and paprika to taste ; meanwhile prepare in the chafing dish about two cupfuls of rich cream sauce, by blending together two even tablespoonfuls each of melted butter and flour and adding one cupful of milk or cream ; be sure that the sauce boils, then stir in the other ingre- dients, and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast, gar- nishing each portion with a little grated egg yolk. This can be served in crab shells. Hollandaise Sauce Beat one-half a cupful of butter to a cream. Add the yolks of three eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly into the butter. Season with salt and paprika or a few grains of cayenne pepper. The sauce should not be hot with pepper. Put the mixture into a double boiler, gradually add one-half a cupful of boiling water, and cook, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens. Add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and remove from fire. The curdling oc- curs when the sauce is overcooked or heated. The eggs then cook hard in grains, and it gives the appearance of curdling. Drawn Butter Sauce Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, gradually add two tablespoonfuls of flour and one cupful of boiling water. When smooth and cooked sufficiently, add one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. Lobster Sauce Boil a small lobster and remove meat. Place bones and tough meat at end of claws in a sauce-pan with three 164 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cupfuls of cold water, a slice of onion, and of carrot, sprig of parsley, bit of bayleaf, and a few peppercorns. Simmer for half an hour and strain off the liquor. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour on one cupful of the strained liquor. When thickened, add one-half cupful of cream, and salt and pepper to taste, also one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and the meat of the lobster cut in small pieces. If one wishes to use the meat for a salad, the sauce is ex- cellent in flavor without the pieces of meat. Mock Hollandaise Melt one tablespoonful of butter; add one tablespoon- ful of flour, one-half cupful of milk, and cook until thickened. Then add one-half cupful of butter a little at a time ; yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and a little cayenne. Planked Lake Superior White Fish Procure a large white fish (Isle Royale is best), have it properly boned ; cut thin slices of salt pork ; have an oak board, long enough for the fish and about one and one-half inches thick; put slices of pork on the board for a bed upon which to place the fish. Season with pepper, salt, and celery salt. You may add other season- ings if you wish. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, or until a delicate brown. When the fish has been cooked twenty minutes, pipe hot mashed potato around the edge of the plank, brush the edges of the potato with the beaten yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 165 milk, and set the plank in a hot oven to brown the edges of the potato and finish cooking the fish. Garnish with lettuce and thin slices of lemon. Serve hollandaise sauce with this. Creamed Salt Codfish Soak the fish overnight in cold water. Drain, and cut or pick the fish into small pieces, having two cupfuls. Into an iron frying-pan put the fish, with three table- spoonfuls of butter, and sprinkle over two level table- spoonfuls of flour. Stir until butter is melted, then add enough milk just to cover the fish, and allow this to cook slowly until thickened. Season with pepper and salt, if necessary, and just before serving add one slightly beaten egg, mixed with a little of the liquid. Serve on toast, or in a deep dish, garnished with triangular pieces of toast. Cape Cod Creamed Fish and Potatoes Soak -salt codfish for several hours in cold water. Drain and cut into small pieces. Cut cold cooked potatoes into dice, and mix with the fish, having equal quantities of fish and potatoes. Put into a saucepan with them sufficient cream to cover the fish and potatoes ; sea- son to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and cook slowly until cream thickens, about forty minutes. Shad Roe Croquettes Cover one set of shad roe with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer twenty minutes. Drain, remove the membrane with a silver fork, and mash the 166 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK roe. Season with a teaspoonful of grated onion, a half- teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a grating of nut- meg, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Heat a half-pint of milk in a saucepan; when hot, stir in two level tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed with the same amount of flour. When smooth, take from the fire and add a half-cupful of soft bread-crumbs, two hard- boiled eggs chopped fine, and a dash of black pepper. Add the shad roe; mix, and cool. Then form into cylinders, dip in egg beaten with a tablespoonful of water, roll in dry bread-crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat. MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 167 i68 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 169 170 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH POULTRY By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. LOSELY related to fish is poultry. Poultry has fallen into partial disfavor in this coun- try by reason of the insanitary methods of handling it. There is perhaps a greater quantity of unfit poultry offered on the American markets than any other one kind of food. Things are getting very much better now since Dr. M. E. Pennington, of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, has studied and made public the proper methods of handling poultry from producer to consumer. In years gone by, immense quantities of poultry have been put into cold storage in an unfit state and, naturally, they were not improved when taken out. Cold storage, however, may be used with advantage, both with fish and poultry, and other food products, when these products are in a proper condition to be stored at the time of entry into the warehouse. One objection to poultry at the present day is its high price. We probably pay more for a given amount of nutrition in the form of poultry than in almost any other form of meat. Poultry, therefore, is, when properly -preserved and prepared, more a food for the well-to-do than for the poor. 171 JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY FEW simple rules cover the selection of all poultry. In the first place, the bones should be tender; that is, if one places the fore- finger of the right hand in the hollow of the neck (at the elbow of the wishbone) and the thumb of the same hand at the end of the breastbone and then contracts the hand gently, if the bird is young and tender the bone will give; if it is old and tough, the bone will be stiff and hard, and impossible to bend. The same is true of the wings. If the bones are tender and bend under pressure, the bird is young. There is another test for wings, akin to that used in the testing of fish. If, when the wings are pulled out, they spring back into shape when released, it is a sign of young meat. The same thing is true of the feet of the bird. If, when spread apart, they collapse easily, the bird is young. The breastbone and wingbones may be broken in order to make the unsophisticated think that the bird is young, but it is a simple matter to feel the bones crunch under such circumstances, when one may be fairly certain that the bird is no longer young. Another test is that the skin should be firm and smooth. The color, authorities say, should be yellow. This is not a question of age or youth, but of the breecl, and con- sequently is not of special value. On the other hand, hairs are a sign of age, and while it is said that pin- feathers are a sign of youth, this is not true, because the i73 174 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK presence of feathers and the color of them depend upon the breed of the chicken and the time of year it is killed. Heavy scales on the feet are also a sign of age ; but with a turkey, when the spurs are soft and loose, it is a good sign. In domestic poultry the flesh of the breast and wings will be white, and should be firm and not heavily fatted, while the legs are of dark meat. In game, the meat of the bird throughout is usually dark and the wings will be of a tougher quality than the legs, which is exactly the reverse in the domestic bird. This is because in the one the wings are used in flying, while in the other the legs are the means of locomotion, and in consequence the fibers will be heavier and coarser. The breast of game should, if it is good, be full and firm and rather fat. On the whole, game will have a large percentage of fat in its composition and be less easily digested than chicken or turkey. Chickens which are not a year old are known as broilers, and at the present time are usually incubated. Chickens which are exactly a year old are known as prime roasters, and those over a year old are qualified by the term " fowl." The so-called spring chicken, which appears in the market in January, weighs about one and one-half pounds. Fowls are the best from March until June. Turkeys are the best in the winter months. Geese are usually at their best from May until Sep- tember. A goose twelve weeks old is called a " green goose." Young geese are often called goslings. The time of the quail and partridge is limited by the game laws, but as a rule we can find them on the market in fall, while we have the plover through the spring and cold storage at other seasons. The grouse comes in the Steamed Squash in Shell. Recipe on Page 335. Boiled Asparagus. Recipe on Page 3/7. Q -si f AJ JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 175 available at all times of the year, provided we are willing to pay the price. In general, the domestic poultry should be well cooked, and the game served rare. This statement, however, should be qualified by the fact that if the game is white- meated it should be better done. The characteristic flavor is not a sign of tainted meat, as some occasionally think, but of breed and life. Game should never hang any longer than until it is just tender. Chicken a la King (Waldorf) Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and saute in this half of a green pepper, with seeds and midribs removed and chopped fine, and one cupful of fresh mushrooms carefully peeled and broken in pieces. Add two table- spoonfuls of flour and cook until the flour is smooth, but not browned. Add two cupfuls of cream, then put where it will simmer only and cook until the sauce is thickened and the flour thoroughly cooked. Add three cupfuls of cooked chicken, cut in dice, and put the mixture over hot water in a double boiler. Beat one-fourth of a cupful of butter to a cream, add three egg yolks, one at a time, beating steadily. Stir this into the hot chicken and stir carefully until the egg thickens. Be careful not to cook too rapidly, for the sauce should be smooth. Season with onion juice, a few drops of lemon juice, salt, and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Serve at once on toast. Wild Turkey Wipe the cavity of the body with a dry cloth after rinsing it out with water to which you have added a little 176 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK baking soda. Have ready a rich force-meat made of bread-crumbs, bits of fat pork, chopped very fine, pepper, and salt. Beat in an egg and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Use neither onion nor herbs in the sea- soning, for they destroy the " gamey " flavor. Stuff and truss as you would a domestic fowl and lay in the drip- ping-pan. Dash a cupful of boiling water over it to sear the skin and keep in the juices. Roast in a steady oven, allowing twelve minutes to the pound. Baste frequently for an hour with butter and water ; then four times with gravy from the dripping-pan, lastly three times with melted butter. Dredge with flour at the last, and froth with butter, to brown the whole body. Drain off the gravy, keeping the turkey hot over boiling water ; season with pepper and salt, thicken with browned flour and the giblets, which have been boiled tender and chopped very fine. Garnish with small sausages and curled parsley. Mint Chicken Cream Pick into small pieces sufficient fresh mint leaves to fill half a cup, covering with boiling water, and allowing it to stand for twenty minutes; then strain and add a scant pint of chicken stock, stirring in half a tablespoonful of white-wine vinegar, the juice of half an onion, pepper, and salt to taste, and two and a half tablespoonfuls of gelatin softened in four tablespoonfuls of cold water. Simmer slowly only until the gelatin is dissolved and remove from the fire, setting in a cold place, until slightly thickened ; add a cupful of cold diced chicken, two table- spoonfuls of cooked peas, and a scant cupful of stiffly whipped cream ; mold in a ring-mold, placing it directly on the ice to chill and harden. When ready to serve, un- JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 177 mold on a glass platter, filling the center with crisp heart lettuce leaves and garnishing with tiny pink radishes. Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing Select a turkey, preferably a hen turkey, weighing not over ten or twelve pounds. If the family be large, it is better to have two ten-pound turkeys. See that the breast is plump, the legs pliable, and do not be governed by the fact that the skin is white and fair sometimes they are not so good as those which are. darker in color. Have the bird drawn, and if possible the tendons drawn from the legs. Singe, cut neck close to body, remove pin- feathers, and thoroughly scrub the bird inside and out, being careful that it does not stay in the water., Wipe well and stuff, then truss and put in a roasting-pan, breast down. Sprinkle with flour and salt, and place in a hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes the first hour of roasting, using butter and hot water. After turning the bird over on its back, cover the breast with butter, and brown. If a crust is desired, cream together butter and flour, using twice as much butter as flour. A ten- pound turkey needs three hours to cook, and more time will not hurt it. The heart, liver, and gizzard should be cooked in water until the last is tender. The neck may be cooked with them, and this stock is excellent for making gravy, or if a bread stuffing is used, for moistening the bread. Chop and add them to the gravy. Chestnut Stuffing Blanch one pound of Italian chestnuts, boil till very ten- der, and put through a' ricer. Add one cupful of bread- 178 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK crumbs, one-half cupful of shortening, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of poultry seasoning, one-half cupful of seeded raisins, with salt, pepper, celery salt, sugar, and cayenne to taste. Mix thoroughly. This is excellent for poultry and game. Jellied Chicken Sandwiches Chop the meat of a cold chicken with one stalk of celery, or put all through a food-chopper. Season with a little grated onion and minced parsley. Soak one table- spoonful of granulated gelatine in one teaspoonful of water until soft, then add six tablespoonfuls of sweet cream and heat over hot water until the gelatine is dis- solved. Add the chicken meat, lemon juice, salt, and paprika to taste, beat all together thoroughly and pour into a shallow, oblong pan, wet in cold water. Set on ice to chill, then cut in slices to fit the bread cut for sandwiches. Spanish Fricassee of Chicken Cut up a chicken or fowl, weighing about four pounds, in pieces for serving, put in a kettle with five cups of boiling water, and simmer until chicken is tender. Re- move meat, cool, then roll each piece in seasoned flour and fry a delicate brown in fat. Wash and cook in the liquor one cupful of rice, (which has been fried in two tablespoonfuls of butter), with one tablespoonful each, of onion and red and green pepper. Add one teaspoon- ful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. When rice is tender turn on to a platter, and on it arrange the pieces of chicken. Garnish with parsley. JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 179 Chicken Rechauffe In blazer of chafing dish put one-half tumbler of cur- rant jelly, one cupful of cream, salt and cayenne to taste. Bring all to the boiling point, and in it place slices of cold cooked chicken. Serve when meat is thoroughly heated. Any meat except beef and ham may be utilized in this way. Roast Goose Singe, draw, wash; stuff, and truss a goose. Dredge with flour and salt, and lay strips of fat pork over the breast. Roast in a hot oven two hours, basting frequently with butter and hot water. Stuffing Chop finely two onions, mix with one-fourth cupful of finely chopped pork, and combine with two cupfuls of hot mashed potato and one and one-half cupfuls of soft stale bread crumbs. Add one-third cupful of butter, one beaten egg, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of sage, and one-eighth teaspoonful of black pepper. Russian Apple Stuffing for Roast Goose Chop two cupfuls of tart apples, Greenings or Baldwins preferred, with one cupful of seeded raisins. Stuff goose and truss as usual. The flavor is delicious and quite different. 180 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Roman Chicken Cook half a pound of vermicelli and drain thoroughly. Spread upon a platter and cover it with a highly seasoned tomato sauce. Shred the white and dark meat of a small cooked chicken into fibers no larger than a match and lay them upon the sauce. Cut four sticks of celery and a Bermuda onion very fine, season with salt, paprika, a dash of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon (if desired), and cook brown in a little butter. Spread over the chicken and put into the oven to get very hot. Moisten with a little chicken stock if needed and serve very hot. Chicken Curried Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one slice of onion, one-fourth of an apple, sliced, one tablespoonful of grated cocoanut or minced almonds, a little salt and paprika, and one teaspoonful of curry powder dissolved in a little water. When required cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful of flour, add one-half cup- ful of chicken stock or gravy, and one cupful of diced chicken mixed with one-half cupful of cream. Add the curry mixture and serve in ramekins. Chicken Cutlets One cupful of chopped cooked chicken, seasoned with one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Make a sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one-half cupful of cream, and one egg; add this to chicken, and cook all JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 181 together three minutes. Cool, shape in the form of cut- lets, roll in fine bread-crumbs, dip in egg, roll in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Serve with a white mushroom sauce. White Mushroom Sauce Drain half a can of mushrooms, and cut in slices. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoon- fuls of flour, one cupful of chicken-stock, and cook until thick and smooth. Season with one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Add one-half cupful of cream, and the mushrooms. Serve as soon as heated. Fried Chicken Cut up a young chicken in pieces for serving. Roll each piece in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Into an iron frying-pan put sufficient fat, half lard and half butter, to make an inch in depth; lay in the chicken, and cook until brown, turning frequently. Cover closely, re- move to a cooler part of the range, and let cook for twenty-five minutes. Drain on paper and serve very hot. 182 MORE W 'AYS OF COOKING POULTRY Qsfa?* j^^ J2^*^ &^4 > MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY 183 184 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY MEAT By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. EXT to cereals, meat in the broad sense of that term, including beef, mutton, and pork, is the most important of our food products. It is important not only from a nutritional point of view, but also because of its eco- nomical aspects. The number of meat ani- mals in this country is actually decreasing for some kinds, while none is keeping pace with the in- crease of population. The natural result of this, aside from manipulation on the markets, is an increasing de- mand and a decreasing supply. This has worked out at the present time into a condition in which the price of meats is higher to the consumer than ever before. This, however, does not affect in any way the value of meat as a food. With all due deference to our vegetarian friends, whose opinions I respect, I am fully convinced that man is an omnivorous animal. He makes a mis- take when he confines his diet to any one particular form of food. Man can thrive quite well, however, on a vegetable diet. Perhaps this should be modified by say- ing on what is generally called " a vegetable diet " be- cause the vegetarian as a rule eats eggs, drinks milk, and uses butter, all of which are animal products. The lean or muscular part of meat is essentially a tissue builder, while the fat is a heat and energy former. Some kinds of meat, as, for instance, beef, can be eaten every day 185 186 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK without palling on the appetite. In this respect beef occupies the same position as wheat and some other vegetables. One caution, however, should be presented in regard to meat-eating, and that is that it should not be overdone. There are two reasons for this, one, the economic aspect of the problem, and second, the nutri- tional relations of meat to healthy growth. I should say that for grown people meat once a day is quite sufficient, while for young children who still consume quantities of milk, meat is not at all an essential part of the diet, and in my opinion they are better off without it. To- day people, especially those who live at hotels and res- taurants, eat too much meat for their own good, and I believe that if meat consumption could be placed on a scientific basis the economic aspects of the problem might well be solved and the demand might not exceed the supply. JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS Tests for Fresh Wholesome Meat RESH, sound, sweet meat is, of course, the only kind to be considered. It is, as a rule, almost odorless, but has a slight fleshy smell that is pleasant to a normal person. The olfactory nerves usually may be depended upon to detect a tainted condition contracted by contact with fish, vegetables, or unclean vessels, cutting-block, or scales ; decomposition due to exposure or undue delay in selling the meat; a strong natural odor such as is sometimes found in the flesh of old animals, especially males; or a rancid state as in stale cured bacon and ham. There are those who relish meat, especially beef, that has " ripened " by remaining several weeks in cold storage at about 38 degrees Fahrenheit, the degree of ripeness varying from fresh to near-decay according to the time and conditions of storage and the quality of cut or carcass, and the objects being to improve both the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Only fat, mature beef, and mutton usually are subjected to this treatment, and, as a rule, only for such customers as city hotels, clubs, and the commissaries of other large establishments. The dark and sometimes quite moldy surface, high (not to say strong) odor, and the unattractive general appearance of such meats makes it unsuitable for regular retail trade 187 i88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK because many patrons would consider it unsound; but when properly handled it is quite as wholesome as other foods which are artificially ripened, such as cheese or fruit. For ordinary use, two days to a week in the chill- room is sufficient. Meat used less than thirty-six to forty-eight hours after slaughter is likely to be tough, due to a set condition of the muscles called " rigor mortis." Considerable quantities of frozen meat, also, are sold in retail market from late winter to summer, having been stored at about 15 degrees Fahrenheit since the preceding fall. If sold immediately after careful thawing, it is diffi- cult to distinguish frozen meats from fresh, but as handled in some retail markets they sometimes become soft, flabby, and slimy. When from animals too young to be suffi- ciently developed for food, veal and spring lamb cuts have gluey or gelatinous flesh and abnormally soft, cartilage-like bone. Such meats should be carefully avoided. Although not necessarily dangerous it is at best repulsive and unwholesome. Judging the Color Perhaps the first characteristic that catches the eye is the color of the steak or chop under consideration. Good beef, when first cut, is a rich, bluish red, which turns bright cherry or pale red when exposed a few minutes. The blue or purplish shade frequently remains until the steak is unwrapped in the kitchen, and is not, as sometimes suspected, an indication of poor or old meat. Veal varies from almost white to light red, but should be a dull pink to be at its best. Lamb cuts range from light Flank Steak. A Juicy Beefsteak Tender and Appetizing if Carefully Cooked. \ Inferior Ham. Choice Ham. Standing Rib Roast. This Cut may be Roasted as it is, or made into a Short Rib Roast by Cutting Off the End at the Left; or the Bone Removed and the Meat Rolled Up. Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin. Represents Steaks used in Many Districts where Small Markets are Patronized. JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 189 pink to grayish red, according to the age and quality of the lamb ; and mutton is a dull brick red. Pork from young pigs is nearly white and that from older animals is dull pink or rose color. The fat of all meat should be as nearly white as possible, free from clots and spots, and of a firm, clear consistency. Dark colored flesh, in general, is characteristic of older animals; is usually more pronounced in males than in females; and is sometimes due to incomplete bleeding. Generally, therefore, it is not of the best grade. But be not deceived by color, for it sometimes " happens," in violation of pure food regulations, that meat wears an artificial complexion, purchased at the drug store. Occa- sionally, too, a cut that is abnormally dark in color proves to be all one can desire as to its " eating qualities." The latter statement applies especially to the outer fat which, in beef cuts, is sometimes quite yellow, it applies also to dried and smoked meats, some of which can be appre- ciated only by tasting. Now a few words which will serve to guide the reader to recognize the general appearance of good beef. Be- sides soundness and proper color, a tempting appearance in meat requires good shape full, thick, and plump ac- cording to the kind of cut even, smoothly cut surfaces, firm condition and absence of all indications of coarseness in the flesh and bone. Words can scarcely describe that subtle something called general quality ; it must be im- pressed by actual observation of the details we are at- tempting to define; by careful attention, for example, to the size and shape of the " eye " of a rib-roast ; the amount, character, and color of bone, as well as meat in a pork chop, the smoothness, thinness, and quality or rind on a strip of breakfast bacon. As an exception to the rule, the unfavorable influence THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of the ripening process upon external- appearance has already been mentioned. Certain kinds of cured meat, as for example Virginia hams, which hang for a year or two before being used, are most shrunken and un- sightly; but the price commanded by such meats (fifty cents a pound for Smithfield hams) testifies to their inner goodness. Signs of Tenderness Toughness is the shortcoming that causes more com- plaints than any other characteristic of our daily meat ; so much so, indeed, that more essential points are usually sacrificed to overcome it. For instance, veal is in con- stant demand even at high prices, merely because it is naturally tender ; whereas mature beef is much more nutritious, has a decidedly richer flavor, loses less weight in cooking and, furthermore, if properly cooked, may be made practically as tender. Although no infallible rule can be stated that will cer- tainly indicate whether a given cut will turn out tender when cooked, nevertheless careful observation will assist greatly in making a good guess. Look for fine, smooth grain or fiber, little connective tissue, a velvety, pliable feeling, and such consistency that the flesh may be pene- trated with the finger or easily cut with a knife, yet firm in condition rather than soft and flabby. With some ex- ceptions, the fatness of the meat and the degree of " marbling," or distribution of fat throughout the lean, are indications of tenderness ; and a light color shows usually that the cut is from a young animal and should be tender. Whether meat is cut with the grain, or across it, makes much difference in its apparent fineness or coarseness of JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 191 fiber, and this must be considered in judging of tender- ness. Even the tenderloin of beef or of pork looks stringy when cut lengthwise, and the flank steak still more so. Lean meat is made up of elongated cells of muscular tissue, bound into small bundles by a thin white mem- brane called connective tissue. The more of this con- nective tissue, the tougher the meat. Fortunately, how- ever, it is susceptible to softening by heat, which changes it to gelatin; so that, within certain limits, it is under the control of the cook. By adequate treatment, such as fireless cooking, the natural toughness of cuts from these parts that have been exercised most, like the legs and neck, or cuts from old and poorly fattened animals, may be largely reduced or eliminated ; and thus meat may be selected with due regard not only to tenderness but also to flavor, food value, and economy. " Marbling " in meat, particularly in beef, also softens the connective tissues by filling their cells with globules of fat. Another indication of the degree of tenderness in meat is the texture and color of bone. Comparatively soft, spongy, and reddish "colored bones indicate that the cut is from a young animal, while hard, dense, white bones are characteristic of old ones. The " lamb joint," or " break joint," found on the legs or shanks of lamb is a good illustration of this point. In dressing lambs, the foot is broken off at a suture, or false joint, just above the ankle, while in sheep this suture is knit or ossified, and the foot must be removed at the round joint. Next to tenderness, the greatest satisfaction in eating meat, regardless of the kind, depends upon the juiciness and flavor. Dry, stringy meat is neither palatable, nutri- tious, nor economical; while a juicy cut meets all three requirements. It is the cell substance that makes meats juicy ; the cell walls and connective tissue that make it 192 stringy. There is a decided difference, too, between meat of a juicy nature and that which is merely watery. The former, as developed in prime beef or mutton, more nearly retains its substance, and shape in cooking, while the latter, as in veal, shrinks largely, due to the loss of water, leaving it comparatively dry and tasteless. Flavor is closely associated with the juiciness of meat. As just indicated, it develops with the growth of the animal, and is therefore most pronounced in mature fat carcasses. Veal and lamb cuts are deficient in flavoring material as compared with beef and mutton. Generally, too, " the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat," and the cheaper cuts from joints that are exercised most are equal, or superior, in point of flavor, to those from the more tender parts along the back and loin. Well marbled meat has a distinctive flavor, due to the rich taste which the intermingled fat gives it when cooked. Such meat is also more susceptible to ripening in the butcher's cooling-room than very lean or watery cuts. In cured meats, particularly sugar-cured ham and breakfast-bacon, flavor cuts a large figure, and much de- pends upon the methods and materials used in curing and smoking. Being generally sold under brand names, the purchaser has a fairly good guide in the selection of a desired flavor in such meats. It is true that few com- mercially cured meats are equal, and none superior, in palatability to the genuine farm-cured article at its best; but the latter in these days is almost extinct. We Americans, as compared with the English, pay little attention to the natural flavor of meats, and our penchant for putting artificial relishes on our dishes has almost destroyed our sense of discrimination. To some, how- ever, who still esteem flavor, a choice shoulder-roast of lamb or of pork is equal or superior to the loin, and only JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 193 half as expensive; flank steak at eighteen cents is pref- erable to tenderloin at fifty; a choice "California" round roast is as palatable as a high-priced prime rib of beef; and breast of veal or of lamb at ten cents a pound is as good as chops or cutlets at twenty-five. Others, who are possessed both of rich tastes and of ample means, cheerfully pay a premium for beef cuts that have been highly " ripened," or for hams that have been specially selected, cured, smoked, and aged. Choose Meat That Is Fat Although most meat is used primarily for the sake of the protein, or lean tissue that it provides, the pur- chaser makes a serious mistake who objects to the so- called " waste fat " that choice meat must have, or who chooses unfinished lean cuts in order to avoid it. In the first place, the best quality of lean meat requires a sufficient outer layer of fat to give it good keeping qualities and a sightly appearance, and at least a moderate " marbling " of the cut to make it rich and tender. A roast, steak, or chop of good size should carry, usually, one-fourth to one-half inch of outside fat, and other cuts may have more or less, according to their class and size. Some of those who insist on the leanest bacon would find the thicker, fatter grades equally palatable and cheaper. In the second place, fat meat is two and one-fourth times as nutritious from an energy standpoint as lean, and although a limited amount of it is sufficient for direct use, the remainder need not be wasted, but may be utilized in such forms as gravies and drippings, for which it is as good, or better, than butter. Finally proper cooking, par- ticularly broiling and roasting, is impossible with ex- 194 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK tremely lean meat, and the percentage of shrinkage in cooking is high. If, from choice or for economy's sake, lean steak is ordered, it is well to get with it a piece of suet so that it may be made savory and served with its own gravy. The trouble is that our fancied economy is false ; we would better save by selecting a cheaper class of cut, but looking well to its quality. Cuts of Meat Are Not Difficult to Learn Notwithstanding a prevalent impression that the dif- ferent cuts are difficult to distinguish, the truth is that they can be learned readily by anyone ; for the structure of the bones and muscles is a guide that seldom leaves room for doubt as to the identity of any cut in the car- cass. By referring to the diagrams and photographs that accompany these articles, and then closely observing actual cuts that the reader may venture to order from the lists given here, it will be found quite easy, after a little ex- perience, to recognize at a glance any of the cuts that are commonly used. Cuts of the quick cooking kind, given in the following list, may be either broiled or sauted. Steaks and chops, for best results, should be broiled (either grilled or pan- broiled) ; and for that purpose steaks should be cut three-fourths to one inch thick thicker if desired and chops one-half to three-fourths of an inch. Thin-cut chuck and round steaks, " drop tenderloins," and pork or mutton chops may be sauted if hard, overdone meat is preferred, as it is by some people with perverted tastes. Ham, bacon, salt pork, and breaded cutlets also are cooked by this method. None of the meats in this list ever should be actually fried, that is covered completely with hot fat JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 195 Quick Cooking Cuts Weight Retail Price Pounds Cents per Ib. Porterhouse steak i l / 2 to 3 20 to 35 Club steak I to 2 18 to 30 Sirloin steak 2 to 5 18 to 30 Round steak 2 to 5 14 to 22 Top round steak 1 l / 2 to 3 18 to 26 Chuck steak 2 to 4 12 to 18 Flank steak i to 2 15 to 20 Veal steak I to 2 18 to 25 Pork steak i to i l / 2 15 to 20 Mutton chops l / 2 to 24 18 to 25 Lamb chops 1-5 to 1-3 20 to 30 Veal chops ^4 to ^ 18 to 25 Veal cutlets 34 to i l / 2 20 to 30 Pork chops l /4 to l / 2 18 to 22 Salt pork i to 3 12 to 16 Fancy breakfast bacon 1-16 to J^ 25 to 35 Medium to fat bacon % to ]4- 16 to 25 Below are listed those cuts which are of proper size and quality for roasting and baking and require moderately quick cooking. Reasonably fat and tender meat is re- quired for satisfactory results. Besides the cuts named, very thick steaks may be partially broiled and afterwards roasted or baked in the oven ; and breasts of lamb and of veal are sometimes roasted, though generally stewed. Moderately Quick Cooking Meats Weight Retail Price Pounds Cents per Ib. Prime ribs of beef (first cut) 4 to 12 18 to 25 Prime ribs of beef (last cut) 4 to 12 16 to 20 Shoulder block roast 4 to 8 12 to 18 Chuck rib roast 4 to 10 12 to 18 Beef rump 4 to 12 12 to 16 Beef tenderloin (fillet) 2 to 6 30 to 50 196 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Weight Retail Price Pounds Cents per Ib. Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20 Loin of mutton 3 to 6 15 to 20 Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 12 to 15 Leg of lamb 3^ to 6 18 to 28 Loin of lamb 2 to 4 20 to 30 Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20 ' Crown lamb roast 3 l /2 to 6 20 to 35 Hind quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 20 to 25 Fore quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 15 to 18 Pork loin 2 to 8 16 to 20 Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20 Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 18 to 25 Pork tenderloin */ 2 to ^ 281035 Pork shoulder 2 to 5 12 to 15 Spare-ribs j/2 to i 10 to 15 Veal loin 3 to 6 18 to 22 Veal leg (fillet) 3 to 12 16 to 20 Veal shoulder 3 to 8 14 to 18 The cuts that are best for long, slow methods of cook- ing may be subdivided, for convenience' sake, into three classes : boiling meats, stewing meats, and soup meats. The first, as a rule, are from the leaner parts that are more or less toughened by exercise. Some of the cuts listed may be chosen either for this purpose or for roast- ing, according to the quality of meat. Stewing is suitable for fat and fairly tender meats, such as breasts and flanks of lamb; but some lean cuts also are so used. Soups, broths, and beef tea are made from the bony and muscular parts which contain an abundance of flavoring substances. Slow Cooking Meats Weight Retail Price Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per Ib. Beef horseshoe piece (end round).. 4 to 8 10 to 16 Beef shoulder clod 3 to 6 10 to 16 JUST HOW TO'ftUY MEATS 197 Weight Retail Price Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per Ib. Rib end of beef 2 to 6 8 to 14 Cross-ribs of beef 2 to 5 8 to 12 Beef brisket 3 to 8 8 to 10 Corned beef, rump, flank, plate or brisket 2 to 8 10 to 16 Beef tongue (fresh) 3 to 5 15 to 18 Beef tongue (smoked) 2 to 3 25 to 30 Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20 Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 10 to 15 Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20 Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20 Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 18 to 25 Pork shoulder (fresh) 3 to 8 14 to 16 Pork shoulder (smoked) 3 to 8 10 to 12 Pork hocks.. \y 2 to 2.y 2 8 to 10 Back-bones and neck-bones 2 to 8 8 to 10 Stewing Meats Beef plate 3 to 6 8 to 10 Beef flank 2 to 6 6 to 10 Drop tenderloin i to 2 10 to \2 l / 2 Beef skirts i to 2 8 to 10 Beef neck i to 3 8 to 12 Beef shin 2 to 5 6 to 12 Breast of mutton 2 to 4 6 to 8 Breast of lamb i to 2 l / 2 8 to \2 l / 2 Veal breast 2 to 5 12 to 15 Veal neck i to 2' 8 to 10 Soup and Broth Meats Shin soup bones I to 4 4 to 6 Hind shank soup bones I to 5 4 to 8 Knuckle soup bones 3 to 7 4 to 6 Oxtail i to 2 8 to 10 Beef neck i to 3 6 to 10 Beef shoulder clod i to 2 10 to 14 Beef round I to 2 14 to 22 Mutton shouldei i to 2 10 to 15 Mutton neck i to 2 8 to 10 Mutton shanks i to i l / 2 8 to 10 198 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Certain cuts may be made most palatable. Such meats are pot roast, braised and browned beef, beef a la mode, " gravy stews," and baked meats which are previously boiled. The preparation of meat in most of these ways was more familiar to our grandmothers, in the days of pots and kettles, than to us, who live in the era of gas stoves. But with the modern fireless cooker, even those who have abandoned the coal range may enjoy the meat dishes of old, and, what is better, they may do so without giving the pot any occasion for uncomplimentary remarks to the kettle. Pot roasting is especially adapted to shoulder pot roasts of beef, the shoulder block roast or " Boston cut," and the end round cut or " horseshoe piece." Rumps, bris- kets, shoulder clods, plates, and flanks of beef and shoul- der of mutton are other cuts that are used in this way. Braised beef usually is made from round steak cut two or three inches thick (known as " California roast " or "Swiss steak"), or from rumps, flanks, or rib ends. Beef tenderloins, mutton chops, ox hearts, and ox joint's (tails) also are braised. Boiling followed by baking or oven-roasting is a method of cooking to which smoked hams and shoulders or " picnics " are especially adapted. Broiled breakfast bacon, when extremely salt, is improved for some palates by parboiling first for a minute or two. Very thick steaks may be made well done without burning the sur- face if they are broiled partially and then cooked to the desired point in a hot oven. " Made-over dishes " in endless variety may be made from many of the meats listed, and especially from the cheaper cuts. In this way five to ten pounds of meat may be cooked and afterwards served in five to ten differ- ent ways, with little loss either of food value or flavor. Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon. 1. Extra Lean. 2. Medium. 3. Fat. Bacon i sells 100 per cent. Higher than 3, but the Quality and Food Value are Similar. CO o S S h, CO <0 M T? Q ^ JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 199 As hints on this point we may merely mention meat balls or cakes, from chopped steak or veal ; minced meat from any of the leaner cheap cuts; pot-pie, especially from mutton shoulder; beef round and flank; veal loaf, from shoulder or neck of veal ; hash of the various kinds ; and chili con carne, goulash, etc., from beef round or chuck. Other forms in which to utilize fresh meats are : home- made sausage, from lean pork two parts, lean beef one part and pork one part ; Hamburg steak, from beef round or chuck or from the flank end of porterhouse steaks ; head cheese, from pigs' heads and pork trimmings; and pressed meat loaf (spiced), from beef plates, flanks, or briskets. Ready-Cooked Meats and Market By-Products Prepared meats which may be obtained at the grocery or delicatessen shop are not included in the foregoing lists. These chiefly consist of cooked ham and pork loins, dried or chipped beef, meat loaf, and corned beef, all of which sell under the general name of " lunch meats." Other ready-to-serve meats are sausages of numberless kinds, canned and potted meats, and pickled tongues, hearts, and pigs' feet. They are comparatively expensive but very useful to serve on short notice or where cooking is out of the question. By-products of the meat market should not be over- looked. Some of them are relished by nearly everyone, but the demand largely is limited to restaurants, hotels, and similar trade. They consist of both delicacies and " rough meats," the designation in some cases depending upon individual tastes and notions. Sweet-breads, brains, 200 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK hearts, livers, kidneys, plucks, and tripe are the prin- cipal products of this kind. By means of skilful cook- ing and seasoning surprisingly palatable and wholesome dishes may be made from many of them. Armed with these specifications, one need never timidly ask for " boiling meat," for example, but may order by name a cut that is suited to the desired purpose, and ten to one the butcher will select and put it up with special care. Occasional reference to lists like these will assist the novice, at least, to introduce variety, obtain quality, and at the same time observe economy in select- ing meat for the family. JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS HEN the meat comes from the market, after weighing, wipe it thoroughly with a clean cheesecloth wrung out of hot water. Do not wash it. Then compute the time neces- sary for cooking. Beef, if desired rare, should be cooked ten minutes for each pound counted after the first fifteen, twenty, or thirty minutes, depending upon the size of the meat. Take a roast, weighing eight pounds, desired rare : count eighty plus twenty minutes, or one hour and forty min- utes. If dinner is to be at six-thirty, the oven must be ready, and the meat go in promptly at ten minutes of five. If desired better done, it needs to be placed in the oven at four-thirty, as the eight pounds multiplied by twelve minutes equals ninety-six, plus twenty equals one hundred and sixteen, which is two hours within four minutes. JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS 201 The meat should not be seasoned nor dredged with flour, but placed in a hot oven, whether the piece be large or small. There are directions which say "the smaller the meat the hotter the oven," and others that state exactly the opposite. Let us make this seeming discrepancy quite plain to the beginner. It all depends on the size, but especially the shape of the roast. When a large roast is put in the oven, it takes with it a sufficient proportion of cold to perceptibly lower the heat of the oven, and this has to be regained before the surfaces of the meat can be seared over and prevent escape of the juices. On the other hand, because meat is a poor conductor of heat, the surface of a large piece of meat becomes burned or charred before the heat reaches the interior if the oven be too hot at first. The very hot oven sears o'r coagulates the surfaces of a small roast quickly, and therefore aids in the retention' of the juices in which the meat should cook. Hence, the sensible directions are that the oven should be relatively hotter for the smaller roast than for the large one, and then the heat be more quickly lowered to complete the cooking. The first heat of the oven should be more moderate relatively for the larger piece, but be more evenly maintained. Meat in general should not be seasoned before cook- ing. Salt has what is called in physics an affinity for water, and when placed on the surface of the meat does not penetrate, but draws the juices of the meat toward the surface, thus rendering the meat tougher and more tasteless. The time to season is when the cooking is finished. We are fully aware of the skepticism raised in the old-fashioned cook's mind by such a statement, but science has proved it correct. And we can only request 202 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the skeptics to do the fair thing and try it for them- selves. Let them take two roasts, a week or so apart, as nearly alike as possible, weighing each before and after cooking, salting one and not the other, and not tell- ing the family what has been done. Then record and compare the results in the two. This is the real way to learn " just how." JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK ROILING is but a method of roasting applied to thin pieces of meat. That is, in broiling or grilling, the steak or chop is exposed to the direct rays of the fire, whether it be coal, gas, or electricity. A perfect steak should be cut one and one- half inches thick and cooked quickly over a hot fire, so that both sides are browned, the interior being of an even red color. The steak should be puffed and elastic from the confined steam of the juices, and every particle of juice and flavor should be preserved, not lost in the cooking. To do this, first remove the superfluous fat from the meat ; heat the broiler and grease it well with a piece of this fat. Lay the steak on the broiler with the skin or outside edge toward the handle. This is done because as the broiler is turned it is tipped down, therefore the melting fat runs on to the meat instead of into the fire, if the steak is placed right. The coals should be red and hot, not black nor burned white. Put the broiler close to the coals and count ten slowly. Turn and count again. In this time, if the fire is right and the steak can be JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK 203 sufficiently near, the surface will be seared over so the juices will be retained. Repeat this, however, then hold the broiler further away from the coals or fire, that the steak may cook more slowly. If the meat is broiled too near the fire all the time of cooking, the outside will be overdone, the inside underdone. If it be held too far away from the fire all the time it will lose its juices and be flat, and lacking in flavor. When broiling steak one cannot, or should not, try to attend to other things. It requires constant attention ; for the steak should be turned every ten seconds, for a period of eight to ten minutes, according to the thick- ness of the steak. When the fat runs into the fire no special harm is done, unless the steak is permitted to absorb the smoke, when it occasionally gets a smoky taste. The flame will not hurt it, the smoke may. When properly done, little or no fat or juices will run into the fire. When cooked it will be just the right brown, and this look one learns only by experience. Moreover it will be puffed up be- tween the wires of the broiler and will offer a slight re- sistance to the touch. If in doubt remove the broiler to a dish on a table and make a clean cut on one side with a sharp knife. Do not before, after, or during cooking, pierce the steak with a fork, but learn to judge by time and appearance as to the condition of the meat. If the steak is preferred well clone the process is more difficult, but after the first quick searing over, which must be done as rapidly as possible, remove the steak farther from the heat and cook for a long period. It is even more necessary to turn it frequently when desired well done than when cooked rare, if one wishes a per- fectly broiled steak. Cook for twelve or thirteen minutes 204 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK if wanted well done when the steak is an inch and a half thick. A thin steak requires careful handling, but can be cooked relatively more quickly than a thicker one, when desired well done. A steak two inches thick will take from fifteen to eighteen minutes to broil rare, and needs constant attention. While broiling over a coal fire the flue dampers should be open, to carry flame and odors up the chimney. Do not let the steak stand before serving if it can be avoided. Dredge with salt and pepper after, not before, cooking, and when ready to serve spread with butter and garnish with parsley. Pan-broiling means to broil in a hot pan in place of over the coals. It should not be confused with frying, sauteing, or any such method. The hot pan should be rubbed with a piece of fat just as the broiler is greased to keep the steak from sticking, and the steak broiled in it precisely as described for broiling over the coals. The pan should be very hot at first, the steak seared on both sides, then allowed to cook more slowly, but turned every ten counts as carefully as if over the coals. In lifting to turn it put the fork in the extreme end of the steak, if a fork must be used. Any fat that runs out of the steak in cooking should be poured off in order to prevent the fried look or taste that will result if the meat is sauted in its own fat. Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades. Sirloin Steaks are Cut from the Surface Shown. Note the Differences in Shape, Thickness, Outside Fat, Mar- bling, Grain, and Quality of Meat. Beef Loin, Third Grade. Beef Loin, Second Grade. Beef Loin, First Grade. HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 205 JUST HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF OT ROAST is one of the delicious meat dishes that can be made of the cheaper (not the cheapest) cuts of beef. Perhaps it is not fair to call pot roast a cheap dish, because the prices vary so widely in different localities, and the cuts vary so much. In the vicinity of Providence, R. I., for example, our correspondents report prices of 12 to 18 cents a pound; in Philadelphia, 14 to 20 cents, in New York City, 1 8 to 22 cents. In Boston and vicinity 20 to 25 cents. In Providence they sell for pot roast the rump ( 14 to 16 cents), shoulder (12 to 14 cents), and bottom round (16 to 18 cents), in Philadelphia and vicinity, the chuck roast next to ribs (14 cents), shoulder cut (16 to 18 cents), and the ribs (18 to 20 cents). In New York City and the West, prices are higher, and their range is greater. The cuts are bottom round, top sirloin (which is expensive, as a rule), top round and brisket, 16 to 22 cents. The " eye " of the beef is considered the epicurean cut for pot roast. This is a triangular piece of meat taken from the hind-quarter between the top and bottom round after the bone has been removed. In the West, pot roast is often made by cutting vertically through the bottom and top round (inside round) as is done in the East. This top round or part on the inside of the hind-quarter is exceptionally good for pot roast. In different localities the names of beef cuts are en- tirely different. In some places, for example, the flank is cut so as to include more of the loin, in which case 206 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the upper portion is often called the flank steak. Some- times the rump steak, the inside round, is called the rump plate, or the rattle. Often the cross-ribs and brisket are included together under the name of cross-ribs; the fore part of the cross-ribs is sometimes called the shoulder clod, and the leg underneath the second round is called the hind shoulder. Often, too, the socket and rump to- gether are called simply the rump. Consequently one must know from what part of the beef the meat should be cut and how it looks. This knowledge must be acquired in actual marketing. The requirements for a successful pot roast are fresh meat, slow cooking about one hour per pound unless the top sirloin or tenderer parts are employed and adequate seasoning. Buy from four to six pounds of beef for any ordinary meal to be served for from three to five people. Remove the meat at once from its wrappings to avoid the taste of paper. Before cooking moisten a piece of cheese- cloth and rub the beef all over carefully. Never soak in water as this wastes good protein material. Remove any discolored fat. Pot Roast Brown two onions, which have been thinly sliced, in two tablespoonfuls of butter, in a pot with a cover ; then add the meat and let it steam in the covered pot with just enough water to keep the meat from burning. Let it cook for three hours or more if necessary. Place on a dish and add to it a sauce made of one can of tomatoes, one tablespoonful of flour, and two chopped boiled car- rots. Season with a dash of paprika and salt to taste. HOW TO COOK POT ROAST OF BEEF 207 Braised Beef with Oysters Two pounds of round steak, one cupful of oysters, one cupful of water or stock, one dash of mace, one clove, some allspice, one rounding teaspoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-third teaspoonful of white pepper, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, a pinch of summer savory, and one-half onion, grated. The beef must be in one solid piece. Mix the salt, pepper, and summer savory with the onion; rub the beef well with it on both sides ; lay in the kettle with the water, spices, and half of the butter, rubbed with half of the flour. Cover closely and simmer gently until the beef is tender, which will take from two to three hours, or if the beef is tough, possibly a little more. When tender, heat the frying pan very hot, melt in it a part of the remaining butter; lay the beef in the butter, turn once, frying until the outside is browned. Be careful not to harden it. After placing the beef on a hot platter, fry the oysters in the same pan. Lay the fried oysters on the beef and keep all warm. Strain the gravy, left from stewing the beef, into the frying pan (there should be about one pint; add oyster liquor and water or soup to make up the quantity, if it is scant), mix the rest of the flour until smooth with a few drops of cold water; stir it into the boiling gravy and boil for five minutes ; longer if not quite thick enough. Pour around the beef and serve hot. Left-.over Pot Roast Use what is left over of a pot roast, running it through the meat chopper. Pare and quarter one large onion, pour boiling water over it and let it stand for about ten minutes. Then run it through the chopper, season with 208 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK pepper, and add to it a poultry dressing made of one egg, four rolled crackers, sage, salt, and pepper as de- sired. Put all of this into a bowl and work it into a loaf. Place it in an earthen dish and put into a moderate oven for an hour. Just before serving, remove the cover and let it brown. Then take enough boiled macaroni, drain off the water, and pour over it the brown gravy that has been left from the roast and set it on the back of the stove to simmer. Heat a can of tomato soup and serve with macaroni around the loaf. Epicurean Pot Roast Buy the " eye of the beef " which weighs about three pounds. Have the butcher lard it with pork fat. Be- fore cooking remove the larding and place it in a bowl with chopped canned pimientoes and some of the pimiento juice, a few bread crumbs or cracker crumbs to thicken, and a few sprigs of chopped parsley. Work all this to- gether and press back into the vacant larding home of the beef. Place the beef in a covered iron pot on the stove, accompanied by a piece of suet, and sear on the outside, but do not toughen or harden it. Then let it cook with just enough soup stock or water to keep it from burning, over the slowest fire possible for at least three hours. Turn the beef every fifteen minutes. Forty minutes be- fore the meat is cooked, scrape five or six potatoes and put into the pot with the meat to brown. Serve hot or cold. JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 209 JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS NCE upon a time, when I went visiting in a small family, who lived in a small apartment on a small income, I learned the possibilities of casserole cooking, and came home so im- pressed by its many-sidedness that I adapted all sorts of dishes to fit the earthen utensils. First, I invested in an entire set of casse- roles from one large, red clay, lidded pot with an enameled interior to several sets of cunning, handled ramekins which afford plenty of crisped brown crust on the small- est dish. I have a half-dozen of the smallest size, which are just big enough to bake an egg, a tomato, or a por- tion of creamed potato for one person. There is an- other set of larger ramekins, which I use for individual chicken pies, or small meat dishes. Last of all comes an oval casserole in which you can cook a chicken, a steak, a few slices of veal, or a neck of lamb. The oval dish fits a chicken better than the round one. By the way, when speaking of chicken I mean a tough, old fowl which can be made really tender in the casserole. While on the utensil subject, let me speak of the oven. We use no fuel but gas and I found it rather expensive to " blaze up " the oven every time I wanted to bake a few eggs, so I purchased what the clerk called a small "spinster oven." In two months it saved its price on the gas bill. See to it, however, that it will hold your largest casserole ; mine did not and had to be exchanged. It is set on top of a burner and, when slow heat is re- quired, I use nothing under it but the tiny gas simmerer. It can be pushed to the back of the stove out of the way 210 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and when not in use I keep it on a shelf beside the kitchen utensils. Now for certain " casseroled " dinner dishes ! You do not require tender meat for casserole cooking, therefore it is well to study cheap cuts of meat. French and Italian cooks know better than any other nation the value of these cheap cuts. At any table d'hote place you find very inexpensive meats, which have been converted to goodness by this method. Certain pieces of beef, such as cuts from the round, shoulder clod, flank, brisket, chuck, or even rump, if the latter is cut according to New York method, are well adapted for casserole cooking. In lamb, choose a neck or breast, with no fat, adding to its goodness by seasoning and any vegetables which help to make a rich gravy. The first process before casseroling any meat is to cut it in pieces convenient for serving, then flour and season it, and brown in an iron spider using the fat fried from salt pork which adds not a little to the flavoring. Put in the vegetables, make a gravy with a cupful of water and the brown juice in the spider, or if you have stock, use that. Pour it over the meat, cover tight and set in a hot oven till it comes to the bubbling point, then turn down the gas and let it cook very slowly for two or three hours. Chicken and sliced veal may be treated in the same fashion and occasionally I have transformed a tough duck or rabbit into a delicious dish by slow casserole cooking. Kidneys, also a beef or calves' hearts, may be made tender and savory in this way. Casserole of Beef One recipe for beef in the casserole will serve as a guide for cooking any piece of meat which is not tender JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 211 enough to be roasted or broiled. Take two or three pounds of round steak; it need not be from the more expensive top of the round, a lower cut is good enough and will be quite tender if properly cooked. Remember, the tougher the meat, the more delicious the gravy, and the greater your achievement in transforming a cheap food into a nutritious and sightly dish. Have the meat cut half way across the round. Wipe it, tie into shape, salt and pepper it, then roll in flour, till thickly coated, sear in hot fat, turning every side of the cut till well browned. Have the casserole hot, add two cupfuls of canned tomato, half an onion, a sliced carrot, and a tur- nip, two stalks of chopped celery, a sprig of parsley, and half a teaspoonful of mixed whole spices. Pour a cupful of water in the spider, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and pour over the meat. Cover tightly and set in a hot oven. As soon as the meat begins to cook, turn the gas low and cook very slowly for two or three hours. If you wish to serve potatoes with this dish, about fifteen minutes before taking the casserole from the oven, add as many as you wish, sliced and parboiled. Serve on a platter with the vegetables as a garnish, and the gravy in a boat. The variations on casseroled dishes are restricted by individual taste and by what is in the pantry. .For in- stance, if you desire, the steak may be onioned, by add- ing, instead of vegetables, four or five onions sliced and fried light brown in the spicier. Or mushrooms may be used instead of the vegetables. If you like the canned variety, pour off the liquor and add them to the gravy ten minutes before taking the meat from the oven. 212 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Casseroled Veal Casseroled veal is delicious treated like steak, using instead of vegetables, one shredded green pepper, half a sliced onion, fried light brown, with a cupful of hot steamed rice added half an hour before serving. Chicken is at its best when cooked in this fashion with mush- rooms and potatoes. A dash of onion, green pepper, or pimiento, adds to the flavor of chicken, veal, or rabbit. When lamb chops or better still slices of lamb cut from across the leg, are casseroled, make a bed of par- boiled vegetables underneath, using diced carrots, parsnip, or turnip. Put on top of these the browned meat, with a sprinkling of finely cut onion and celery, afterward pour over all the slightly thickened gravy. Beef Tongue en Casserole Another delicious casseroled dish is a beef tongue which has been slightly corned. Boil it first, trim off unsightly bits and skin. Rub with flour, to which has been added a dash of ginger, and allspice. Fry a few slices of onion in salt pork, then put the tongue in the spider, first tying it into shape. Flour it and fry lightly on all sides. Make a cupful of gravy, adding the juice of a lemon, three tablespoonfuls of shredded almonds, and half a cupful of seeded raisins. Put the tongue in a round casserole, pour the gravy over it, and bake half an hour in a moderate oven. .Untie the meat, turn out on a chop plate, and serve with the gravy poured over it. Calves' Hearts A favorite dish in our house is casseroled calves' hearts, which are so tender and well flavored they might Casserole of Beef. Recipe on Page 210. Corn Cakes to serve with Meat. Recipe on Page 336. Casseroled Veal. Recipe on Page 212. Creamed Asparagus Tips. The Individual Casserole Makes an Attractive Way of Serving Left-overs. JUST HOW TO CASSEROLE MEATS 213 almost be palmed off as venison. Fry an onion with a few slices of fat bacon ; roll four calves' hearts in flour, and brown them all over. Put in a hot casserole, add one cupful of stock, a shredded pimiento and half a teaspoon- ful of mixed, whole spices. Cover the casserole tightly, then bake for two hours. Before serving, garnish the meat with crisped bacon. When clearing up food remnants, try my plan of scrap- ing what can be used in this way into the little dishes before the food cools. Sometimes it may be only a few spoonfuls of some creamed dish, chicken, fish, oysters, lobster, crab, sweetbreads, dried beef, or a remnant of some meat with gravy. If it seems too dry, add a spoon- ful of milk or gravy. Set the ramekins in the refrigera- tor until required. Generally they need to be topped off with crumbs, or a film of grated cheese which is a de- licious addition. If they are baked in a pan of boiling water, the food will be more moist and the dishes easier to wash. The only food I do not ramekin in this way is a baked egg, which is improved by a slightly crusted bottom. Chicken pie ramekins are a favorite luncheon at our house. Into the larger ramekin I put bits of stewed chicken, first picking it from the bones. Fill the dish three-quarters full with meat and gravy, then cover with a rich biscuit crust shaped 'with a cutter about the size of the ramekin. Cut a hole in the top and bake crisp. It is well to set chicken pies in the oven on a tin, as the gravy is liable to ooze out while baking. Certain vegetable left-overs may be reheated in rame- kins ; potatoes, mushrooms, cauliflower, and cabbage are good when gratined. Asparagus tips, peas, beans, or onions may be creamed. Macaroni and spaghetti topped 214 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK off with cheese, make delicious little side dishes for dinner. Even left-over desserts may be re-served in ramekins. Bread pudding enriched by fruit, cocoanut, chocolate, or apples, if moistened slightly with milk or a spoonful of cold custard, makes a very respectable appearance when served piping hot in ramekins. Do not fill the little dishes to the top, but leave space for a garnish of hard sauce which adds to its toothsomeness as well as to looks. Cabinet, fig, blueberry, tapioca, Indian, rice, cracker, or fruit-tapioca as well as plum pudding and, indeed, almost any remnant of a steamed pudding may be made over successfully by moistening and reheating in ramekins. Of course a " musthave " with such a dessert is a spoon- ful of hard sauce or a rich liquid sauce which enhances the flavor of a pudding. JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS Planked Beefsteak with Potato Roses The housewife who has never thought of planked steak except in connection with a restaurant will not believe how very simple it is to prepare it until she has tried it in her own kitchen ; fasten the steak to the plank with galvanized wire tacks, selecting either a tenderloin, porterhouse, or Delmonico cut of the beef. Have the board very warm and greased with melted butter, then run the plank under the gas flame as you would to broil, regulate the flame until it is cooked to your liking, dot with bits of butter, season with salt and paprika, and place for a moment on the open oven door. Have in readiness hot, creamy mashed potatoes and as JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 215 quickly as possible pipe them around the edge of the plank or form little rosettes at either end, returning under the flame for a moment or two to brown ; serve garnished with mushrooms, peas, or parsley as you may prefer. Parker House Roast Beef A piece of beef intended for roasting is carefully freed of tough membranes. To prevent the meat from becoming dry in cooking, it is larded with strips of salt pork. Or better still, slices of beef-suet are pounded with a wooden beater to the thickness of a slice of bacon, and the roast is enveloped in these. It is then roasted in a very hot oven, allowing ten minutes for every pound, unless the roast happens to be longer than it is wide. In the latter case, eight minutes for each pound will be sufficient. Serve the roast with only its own juices for gravy and with fresh grated horseradish as a relish. This method of roasting beef is especially adapted to cooking in gas-ovens. Swiss Steak Select a two-pound steak from the under or upper round. See that it is cut one inch or one and one-half inches in thickness. Sear it on both sides in a hot skillet. Then remove to a platter and dust thickly with flour. Place in a casserole with a small piece of suet. Mix one chopped onion with one cupful of tomato. Season with salt and pepper and place this dressing over one-half the meat and fold the other half over. Add a very little water, renewing if necessary to keep it from burning, and cook very slowly two or three hours. Thicken the gravy, if liked, and serve from the casserole. 216 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Flank Steak with Onions Place in a casserole a flank steak, cut from the thick end of the flank, one and one-half inches thick. Cover with two inches' depth of onions sliced and well seasoned with salt and pepper. Finally cover with thin slices of salt pork and add one cupful of water. Cover closely and bake in a slow oven or a fireless cooker all the afternoon. There will be little evidence of the salt pork when done. Just before serving remove cover and brown. Serve from the casserole. Rolled Beefsteak Make a good dressing as for turkey and spread it over a two-pound round steak. Roll it up and tie it securely and put it in a cloth bag and boil it for two hours. About half an hour before serving, take it from the bag and brown it in the oven. Serve it with a good brown sauce or with a tomato sauce with chopped green peppers. Meat Loaf with Hard Cooked Eggs Chop one pound each of raw veal and beef with one- fourth pound of salt pork. Add one-half teaspoonful each of thyme and marjoram, or one tablespoonful of poultry seasoning and one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix it with one-half cupful of bread crumbs and two well-beaten eggs. Butter a mold and fill half full with the meat mixture. On this place lengthwise two whole hard cooked eggs, then fill with the rest of the mixture. Place a tablespoonful of melted butter or beef shortening on top and bake in a slow JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 217 oven one and one-half hours. When served the meat will have a round slice of hard cooked egg in each slice of meat. Parsley may be used for a garnish and the meat may be served hot or cold. Beef Loaf, Mexican Sauce Add one tablespoonful of chopped onion, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one cupful of stale bread crumbs, to two pounds of lean chopped beef. Moisten with strained tomato sauce, and shape in loaf bread pan. Turn out into a greased baking pan, and bake thirty minutes, basting often with tomato juice. Serve on a hot platter, surrounded with Mexican sauce. Mexican Sauce Cook a fourth of a cupful each of chopped onion, red and green peppers, in a fourth of a cupful of butter, or beef dripping, until soft. Add four tablespoonfuls of flour and, when smooth, one and a half cupfuls of stewed tomato. Cook ten minutes, then season with salt. Hash in Disguise Mince finely enough cold corned beef to fill two cups, also an equal amount of potatoes, one slice of onion, if desired, and half a green pepper. Mix well together and season highly with salt and pepper and if the meat is mostly lean, add a tablespoonful of slightly melted butter. Rub about three cupfuls of boiled lima beans through the sifter or colander to remove the skins. Season the pulp with salt and pepper and mix with a well 218 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK beaten egg to bind. Form the hash as nearly as possible into a roll, and with the hands cover the entire outside with this pulp. Lift carefully on to baking dish. Brush the outside with melted butter and bake until thoroughly heated. Serve with a white sauce, to which may be added, if desired, a little more of the minced green pep- per, or two or three drops of onion juice. English Cottage Pie Put the beef bone of your roast on to stew with cold water, one sliced onion, a few cloves, one sprig of parsley, and a bit of celery. Chop the left-over meat very fine, add pepper and salt. Strain the stock and with it make a brown sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour to each cupful of liquid. Season with Worcestershire sauce and put half of it into the bottom of a baking dish, then add the minced meat, the rest of the sauce, and cover with seasoned mashed potatoes, having potatoes one inch deep. Bake the pie until heated through and very delicately browned. Bobtee One pint of cold cooked meat chopped fine, one-half of a small onion, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful of milk, two ounces of bread, eight sweet almonds, three eggs, a dash of salt, and one teaspoonful of curry powder. Put the butter in a frying pan and slice in the onion. Fry a nice brown. Add the milk and bread. Take from the fire and let stand ten minutes. Blanch and chop almonds and add them, the meat, the curry powder, and the eggs well beaten to the ingredients in the frying pan. Rub JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 219 a baking dish with butter and the juice of a lemon. Put the mixture in this and bake in the oven twenty minutes. Beef Olives Pass, through a meat chopper several times, until quite fine, half a pound of raw beef, half a pound of cold cooked meat, and half a pound of bread, which has been soaked in water, a little parsley, and a piece of fat salt pork about the size of an egg. Season this and add to it one egg. Mix it well and roll it into balls. Wrap each ball in oiled paper to hold together while cooking. Bake them in the oven, in a pan, into which have been placed some finely chopped carrots and onions, a couple of tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes, and a little water. Remove to a hot platter, and add a little flour to the gravy. Strain the gravy over the beef olives. Mock Duck Buy a flank steak. Fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion in one-fourth cupful butter or drippings. Add one-half cupful soft stale bread crumbs, one-fourth tea- spoonful of mixed seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. Spread over the steak, roll and tie. Brown the roll in three tablespoonfuls of fat, and remove to a casserole or covered dish. To the fat in the pan add an equal quan- tity of flour, and brown ; then add one cupful stock or boiling water, and one cupful strained tomato, season with salt, and pepper, pour over the roll, cover dish, and cook slowly until the meat is tender. If cooked in a casserole it may be served in the same dish. It may also be cooked in a fireless cooker. 220 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Meat Balls with Horseradish Sauce One pound of chopped steak, one teaspoonful of salt, one-sixth teaspoonful of paprika, one onion. Chop meat and onion together, season, make into firm balls, sear in butter in saucepan, reduce temperature, turn balls often and serve rare. Horseradish sauce : one-half cupful of horseradish, one-half cupful of cracker dust, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-sixteenth teaspoonful of pepper, one-half cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of mustard, one-quarter cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix sak and pepper, cracker dust, and horseradish. Make a paste of mustard and cream in a spoon, add it with cream to the mixture : add full amount of vinegar if horseradish is fresh, and heat the materials in a double boiler. Serve hot. Roast Leg of Mutton 'While roasting the mutton, as directed in the chapter on roasting meats, baste very frequently, that it may be moist, then serve surrounded with a puree of French beans, Breton style, which is made as follows: Cover one pound of white haricot beans with hot water, and cook until thoroughly done. The time is not given, be- cause it varies with the condition of the beans as well as the hardness of the water. The beans should simmer slowly, and only enough water used to keep them covered. When they are soft, mash them in their own liquor, press the beans through a fine sieve, return to the fire and reheat, stirring carefully to prevent burning, and if the puree is too thick, thin it with a little of the mutton gravy. Heap about the mutton, or press through a pastry JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 221 tube in forms. Serve mutton and beans with currant or grape jelly. Lamb Souffle Pass two cupfuls of cold lamb through the meat chop- per, add a little minced parsley, a small cupful of cream sauce, a dash of onion juice, pepper and salt to taste; two slices of minced cooked bacon, and one beaten egg yolk. Cook this over hot water until the ingredients are all heated and then allow to cook. Fold in when quite cold the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, turn into but- tered souffle cups that have been placed in a pan of hot water, and cook for half an hour in a rather quick oven. Serve immediately accompanied by brown bread sand- wiches. Lamb Timbales Cook together for five minutes two tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half cupful of soft bread crumbs, and one cup- ful of milk. Add one cupful of finely chopped, cold cooked lamb, two slightly beaten eggs, one-half teaspoon- ful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and turn into buttered timbale molds. Bake, having molds sur- rounded by water, until the mixture is firm. Serve with a cream sauce to which have been added two canned pimientos which have been rubbed through a sieve. Veal with Sour Cream Gravy Prepare a loin or shoulder of veal for roasting, cut strips of fat salt pork and lay over the meat and in the 222 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK bottom of the pan. Baste frequently with thick sour cream and, after the first half-hour, cook slowly until meat is done. Make a gravy as usual, allowing two tablespoonfuls of fat and two tablespoonfuls of flour to each cupful, or half-pint, of liquid. The cream gives the veal a delicious flavor, and the meat is very white when treated in this way. Bavarian Veal Chops Place in a stew pan six loin chops, with a sliced onion, six slices of carrot, two cloves, and a few peppercorns, one ounce of butter, and enough boiling water to cover. Cook slowly until meat is tender. Drain, season with salt and pepper, dip in egg, roll in flour, and saute in pork-fat until brown. Serve on platter with boiled macaroni mixed with soubise sauce. For the sauce, use two tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, one cupful of the water in which chops were cooked, salt, pepper, and bring to boiling point. When thickened, add one-half cupful of cream or milk, and a puree of boiled onions, made by cooking two cupfuls of sliced onions, until soft, then forcing them through a puree sieve. Veal Cutlet, Baked Remove bone and carefully trim a cutlet of veal. Place in a buttered baking dish, on a thinly sliced onion. Add one cupful of stewed and strained tomato, one table- spoonful each of minced green pepper and parsley, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and a few grains pepper. Bake half an hour. Remove to a hot platter, and pour over it the sauce from pan. JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 223 Veal Dandy Season a pan with butter, salt and pepper, and a little sage (use but a little to give the mere suggestion of its flavor). Then place in the pan tiny strips of thinly cut fat salt pork, then about a pound and a half of veal steak, which has been cut thick and from which all outer edge and bone have been removed ; then season, and add some squares of thinly cut bread; season again and place more strips of pork (a half-pound of pork is enough) add a good inch of water; start cooking in the hot oven as usual, then turn the fire low. If this is rightly cooked the veal should be a deep rose color, very tender, and no trace of the pork remaining. Veal Paprika Take two pounds of loin of veal. Have the veal cut in good-sized pieces. "Put a tablespoonful of fat or drip- pings into the pot. Add two onions sliced, make red with paprika. Let this cook until the onions are well clone but not brown. Add the meat, which is well sprinkled with salt. Cover and let them brown thor- oughly. Turn occasionally so it will brown on all sides. Let it simmer for a while in its own juice, then just cover it with boiling water and let it simmer for one hour. This is very good served with boiled spaghetti which has been seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt. Creamed Veal Cut enough cold veal into fine pieces' to fill two cups. Season to taste with pepper, salt, mace, and add a little 224 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK parsley, according to one's liking; pour over this one cupful of milk, put this on the stove and let it come to a boil, and then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour which have been previously rubbed smooth with two table- spoonfuls of butter. Serve on toast. Veal Loaf Mix well together three pounds of finely chopped veal (the neck or fore-quarter veal is very good) with one- half pound of salt pork. Add four common crackers (one-half cupful), rolled fine, one teaspoonful of black pepper with one-half teaspoonful of nutmeg and two tea- spoonfuls of salt. Add three beaten eggs and make into a loaf. Bake one hour and a half or two hours in a slow oven. Baste with butter. Put on the outside of the loaf a small quantity of the rolled cracker. This loaf may be made with only one egg, using one-fourth cupful of milk. Spare-Ribs Stuffed with Apples and Prunes Sew together several pounds of fresh spare-ribs, so that they form a pocket, then stuff with the following: One pound of prunes boiled for five minutes (pour the juice of the prunes into a bowl). Peel and cut a quart of sour apples into small pieces, then mix them with the prunes, adding to this mixture, sugar, a little cinnamon, and a tablespoonful of cracker dust. Put this stuffing into the spare-ribs and sew the pocket together. Put juice of the prunes into pan in which the spare-ribs are to be roasted, and cook in the oven for one hour. JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 225 Parisian Pork Tenderloins in the Chafing Dish Remove the small rounds of meat from the under part of the pork ribs and place in the chafing dish, together with a cupful of the brown gravy, a few drops of tabasco sauce, half a cupful of tomato catsup, a pinch each 'of salt and celery salt, and a small piece of butter ; simmer only until the meat is thoroughly heated, then place over the hot water pan, stirring in a cupful of cooked macaroni that has been cut in small pieces ; serve very hot on squares of fried hominy, garnished with crisp parsley. Philadelphia Scrapple Cleanse and scrape well a pig's head and feet and boil until tender, putting on the fire in cold water with some onions, carrots, two of each, some pieces of turnip, salt, and pepper, and a dash of paprika. When tender re- move from the liquor and put the meat through a meat chopper; extract all grease and boil again in some good rich stock. To each three pounds of meat, add one pound of Indian meal and one pound of rolled oats. Cook in double boiler for an hour. It should be very thick like porridge. Sugar added to the scrapple improves it. Wet molds or square bread tins in cold water, fill with scrapple, and set away to cool. When wanted for use, slice, dip in crumbs, and fry in butter. Kentucky Ham Select a small ham. Soak over night if very salt. Then wash thoroughly in cold water, and cover with a 226 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK layer of baking soda, which is scrubbed into the ham with a brush. Rinse off and trim neatly and place in a bake pan. Mix the seasoning, consisting of half a tea- spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, celery seed, and pepper. Rub the whole into the surface of the ham and cover with a very thick layer of onion, minced fine. Cover the wtmle with a layer of pastry made by mixing smoothly a cup of sifted flour in half a cup of water. This pastry is rolled out thin and wound about the ham closely. The pan is then filled with boiled cider and placed in the oven to bake slowly and steadily for four hours with frequent bastings from the cider. Serve with candied sweet potatoes, baked squash, and spinach with a relish of apple sauce. Southern Ham Wash and soak for two hours two large slices of lean ham, cut at least an inch thick. Butter the bottom of a casserole; then add pepper and a sprinkling of brown sugar; then place upon this the ham, add more bits of butter, and more sprinklings of the brown sugar, with water the depth of the ham. Cover and cook in a casserole, in a slow oven all the afternoon. Baked Sliced Ham Place in a baking pan a slice of ham cut one inch thick. If the ham is not "mild cured" it should be soaked in cold water an hour. Sprinkle on top a little powdered mustard, brown sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Add a little water, bake about forty minutes, JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 227 basting often. Add a little boiling water to the gravy but do not thicken. Baked Ham Choose a small, thin-skinned ham, and scrub well. Put into a kettle, cover with cold water to which is added one cup molasses. Bring to a boil, and simmer until ham is tender. Remove from water, and place in a baking pan. Trim off rind and some fat, leaving a layer half an inch thick. Stick full of cloves, cover thickly with dark brown sugar, moistened with one cup sherry, white wine or cider. Place in a moderate oven, and bake slowly for two hours. It is better to cook the ham longer in the oven, and less time in the water, as it is less likely to drop apart, in which case it is extremely difficult to carve. Ham Timbales To one cupful of lean chopped ham add half a cupful of stale bread crumbs and one cupful of cream sauce made with one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoon- fuls of flour, one cupful of milk, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a few grains of cayenne ; add a slightly beaten egg and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Pour into buttered timbale molds or small cups and bake in a pan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Arrange on a platter or on individual dishes and surround with drawn butter sauce. Garnish with parsley. Noodle and Ham Pudding One-pound package of medium-sized noodles, one cup- ful of cream or milk, three-quarters of a pound of cold boiled ham. and a dash of pepper or paprika. Boil the 228 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK noodles about ten minutes in water, add a scant table- spoonful of salt, then remove the noodles from boiling water, put into a colander, and pour cold water over them. (This prevents the noodles from sticking together.) Put a layer of noodles in a baking dish and then sprinkle ham over the noodles, repeat this, leaving a layer of noodles as the final layer, pour over this the milk or cream. Bake in the oven for thirty minutes. Ham Trifle Chop one cupful of cold boiled ham, three hard cooked eggs, and five soda crackers. Heat two cupfuls of milk, add to this a good-sized piece of butter, and thicken with one teaspoonful of flour and one teaspoon ful of dry mustard. Stir into this the chopped ham, eggs, and crackers, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Put in a baking dish and bake for half an hour. Sausage Bundles Roll out plain paste in six-inch squares, rather thin. Cut Frankfurt sausages in thin slices, rejecting the skin, and lay the slices in two rows in the centers of the pieces of paste; double, pinch ends together, and fold as you would do up a bundle, wetting the edges to make them stick ; then place them on ice until ready to bake. Bake them in a hot oven fifteen minutes, and serve hot with French or German mustard. This is a popular dish for Sunday night supper, especially with men. Liver with Bechamel Sauce Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful of flour, add a little salt and pepper, a dash of nutmeg JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 229 and cayenne, and one-half cupful of stock. When boil- ing add one teaspoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls of cream mixed with one yolk and one cupful of cold, cooked liver cut in dice. Serve in ramekins. German Luncheon Dish Cook spinach in the usual way, and heap on the middle of a platter. Garnish with slices of hard cooked eggs, and place round all, some thin slices of broiled bacon. Deviled Kidney Soak the kidney in cold water and cook in soup stock to which have been added a minced onion, a bay leaf, a stalk of chopped celery, and diced carrot. When tender drain and chop as finely as possible (rejecting any skin or strings). Season highly with salt and paprika, and add two tablespoonfuls of grated bread crumbs and a small cupful of tomato catsup ; then turn into shallow baking shells, and after sprinkling with browned bread crumbs, bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes; serve in the shells garnished with parsley. Masked Sweetbreads Blanch one pound of sweetbreads, remove pipes and skin, and put through the meat grinder with two slices of salt pork. Form into cutlet shapes, and pin them tight in cheesecloth to keep their shapes. Place on ice. After an hour or. two saute them on one side only in a little butter for five minutes and place them in a buttered 230 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK baking-pan, cooked side up. When cool, cover them with a masking preparation made as follows : Cover a small peeled onion with cold water, place on the fire and boil for five minutes, drain dry, and cut in slices. Saute the slices in one tablespoonful of butter until slightly brown, add one cupful of stock, and cook until tender; press through a sieve with the stock. Melt three table- spoonfuls of butter, add a third of a cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little paprika. Add enough cream to the onion and stock mixture to make one and a third cupfuls and add this to the mixture in saute pan ; when boiling, add one large egg, or one egg and an extra yolk, cook for a moment, remove from the fire, and add a dash of cayenne and nutmeg. Cover the sweetbreads about a fourth of an inch. Cool, then cover with soft bread crumbs rolled in melted butter ; place a whole mushroom, partly cooked in butter, on each cutlet, and garnish with slices or stripes of truffle or red and green pepper. Bake ten minutes. Serve with a brown mush- room sauce around the edge of platter, with a mound of fried eggplant straws in the center. Apples Stuffed for Roast Pork Add a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of minced onion, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper to two and a half cupfuls of white stock; simmer for twenty minutes and strain. Pare and core ten tart apples. Place in the bottom of agate pan ; pour the strained stock over them and simmer until they can be pierced with a fork; carefully remove them from the stock, and set aside to cool. Blanch two cupfuls of chestnut meats, slice, cover with the stock, add four teaspoonfuls of cur- rant jelly, and simmer until tender. If the meats are too JUST HOW TO COOK MEATS 231 moist, drain. Fill the center of the apples with the chestnut mixture and serve with roast pork. This recipe will serve a dozen persons. Currant Mint Sauce Beat one-half tumbler of currant jelly with a fork until quite smooth ; add two tablespoonfuls of chopped fresh mint, the grated rind of half an orange, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a few grains of cayenne. Serve with lamb chops or a crown of lamb. Cranberry Relish Two quarts of cranberries, three and a half pounds of white sugar, one pound of seeded raisins, the rind of two oranges, chopped very fine, one cup of vinegar, juice of two oranges, one teaspoonful each of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon. Cook all to a marmalade, and put in jars. This is excellent with cold meats,, especially chicken, tur- key, and game. Horseradish Sauce Beat one cupful of cream until stiff, then add two tablespoonfuls of fresh, or three tablespoonfuls of evapo- rated, horseradish root, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika. Good with roast beef, or veal, or on toma- toes to be served as a salad. Braised Tongue A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two 232 THE PURE POOD COOK BOOK hours. Take tongue from water, drench with cold water, remove skin and membranes ; fasten the tip around against the thick part, tying or skewering firmly. Fry two onions, one turnip, and one carrot, all cut fine, ' in butter until brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Flour the tongue all over and put into a hot pan with the butter. Turn it on all sides until browned slightly. Put the tongue, the fried vegetables, a small piece of stick cinna- mon, one clove, and a bunch of sweet herbs into a casserole. Add one quart of the liquor in which the tongue was boiled. Close the lid as tightly as possible to keep in the steam. Place in the oven. After one and one-half hours open, turn the tongue, and add the juice of one lemon. Close as before and leave one-half an hour longer in the oven. Now put the tongue on a hot dish, and set it over hot water while the gravy is being boiled down for fifteen to twenty minutes. If it is not quite thick enough, mix two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch with a little cold water, stir it into the boiling gravy, and boil two or three minutes. Strain some of the gravy over the tongue and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. Tongue braised in this manner may be served surrounded by a soft puree of potatoes well seasoned with plenty of butter or rich hot cream, salt, and pepper. Serve all the sauce in a sauce-boat. MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 233 ^*-< 234 MORE W 'AYS OF COOKING MEATS MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS 235 236 MORE WAYS OF COOKING MEATS DESSERTS By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. HIS is a class of food products which appeal particularly to the taste and are not of any particular value from the nutritional point of view. I do not say this because I think desserts have no food value. They are usually made largely of sugar, which has a very considerable food value, but that is not the question at this point. When the dessert is served, as a rule the man who sits at the table has already eaten all he ought to. The dessert simply comes then as a burden to digestion. I do not mean at all to imply that the recipes that follow are of no value. This is not my meaning at all. The thing I wish to impress upon the reader is that desserts pander to the taste rather than minister to the needs of the body. Desserts, therefore, should be delicate and not served in very large quantities, and the diner who has his own welfare at heart will save a place for them. The sugars which enter so largely into the desserts are food products, but minister only to the production of heat and energy and the formation of fat. The deposition of adipose matter is the Nemesis which follows the over-eater. 237 JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS HE first fresh-apple pie of the late summer has a flavor quite unlike those made with winter apples, and its appearance on the table is hailed with gustatory delight by those who are familiar with its delicious qualities. The excessive use of pastry, common in the old times, is not recommended ; but a pie made of light flaky paste, delicately flavored fruit, well baked and eaten while fresh, may occasionally help to complete a dinner when the first course is somewhat light. A pie like those often served at grandmother's may be made this way: Apple Pie Line a pie plate with pastry made in these proportions for one pie. One-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and one rounded tablespoonful of lard rubbed into one heaped cupful of sifted pastry flour. Wet with cold water to a stiff dough. Pat with rolling pin into an oblong, half inch thick, spread with one rounded tablespoonful of cold, hard butter in little dabs, dredge with flour, roll over, then pat down flat and roll, into a long narrow piece; roll over like a jelly roll and divide in middle. Stand one-half on end, pat flat, and roll out to fit the plate, a trifle large to allow for shrinking. Fill the plate with pared and sliced tart apples. Roll 239 240 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the other crust and lay it on lightly without pressing edges together. Bake in a hot oven, and when brown and the apples are soft, run a knife between the crusts. Remove the top carefully to another plate. To the hot apple add a teaspoonful of butter and a mixture of half a cupful of sugar (or more if liked very sweet), a slight dash of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of any spice preferred, nutmeg, cinnamon, or allspice, or grated lemon rind. Mix carefully till butter and sugar melt, cover with top crust and serve. Or, take out part of the seasoned apple, lay the upper crust with top down on the pie, and cover with the remaining apple. Serve while warm. For festive occasions cover the top with whipped sweetened cream; or with a meringue of two egg whites, and two heaped tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar fla- vored with lemon juice, and brown it slightly. Mincemeat Without Meat Chop together one peck of green tomatoes and one dozen large apples. Add one tablespoonful of ground cloves, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoon- fuls of allspice, one grated nutmeg, five pounds of brown sugar, two pounds of raisins, one pound of finely shredded citron. Chop two oranges and two lemons, and add with one cupful of vinegar and any jelly or fruit juice that you may have. Cook all together until toma- toes are tender. Then add brandy when making into pies. Mock Cherry Pie Chop one quart of cranberries, add two and one-half cupfuls of sugar, or if preferred, two cupfuls of sugar JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 241 and one-half cupful of molasses. Then add one table- spoonful of flour, with one-half cupful of water, or one tablespoonful of cornstarch, wet with a little cold water to which one cupful of boiling water is added. If liked, add one cupful of chopped raisins. This makes two pies. Lemon Sticks Make a good paste, using one and one-half cupfuls of flour, sifted with one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, one-* fourth cupful of lard and butter, or other shortening, and ice-water enough to make a stiff dough. Roll out one- fourth inch thick, cut into strips one inch wide by four inches long. Bake in a quick oven. When cool, split and fill with lemon filling. Cook together one-half cup- ful of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, juice and rind of one lemon, one egg, and one tablespoonful of butter, until thick. Cool and use to fill the pastry. Transparent Pie Line a pie-plate with a good pastry, and fill with the following mixture : Cream together one cupful of butter and two cupfuls of sugar; add the beaten yolks of four eggs and two tablespoonfuls of jelly. Bake until firm ; cover with a meringue made by beating the whites of eggs with three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Bake fifteen minutes in a slow oven. Thanksgiving Brambles To one cupful raisins, seeded and chopped fine, ado! one lemon: juice, pulp, and grated rind; one-half cupful 242 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of sugar, one egg, one tablespoonful of cracker-dust with one-half cup of chopped nutmeats. Put one tablespoon- ful of the mixture on a round, cut from plain pastry and three inches in diameter. Cover with another round, pinch edges together tightly, prick the top crust with a fork, and bake. If the fruit mixture seems very stiff, add a little water. Pumpkin Pie Into a quart of stewed, strained, and cooled pumpkin stir a quart of rich milk, a cupful of granulated sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg to taste, and, when these are well mixed, six eggs beaten light. Beat all together for a minute, and pour the mixture into deep pie-plates lined with the very best pastry you can make. Bake in a mod- erately hot oven. When the custard is " set," lay paper over the pies until five minutes before taking them out of the oven. Then set upon the upper grating of the oven to brown. Eat cold, with American cheese. Date Pie Wash one pound of dates and soak over night, stew in same water till soft enough to rub through colander. Add one cupful of sour cream, two level tablespoonfuls of butter, yolks of three* eggs, one teaspoonful of cinna- mon, one of nutmeg, and a little salt. Bake in one crust. Make a meringue of whites of eggs, if liked. Butterscotch Pie One cupful of sour cream, one tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of brown JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 243 sugar, teaspoonful of vanilla, and a little salt. Beat to- gether, pour into one crust, and bake. Make meringue of whites of eggs and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Brown in very slow oven. Cream Pie Mix one-half cupful of powdered sugar, and one-half cupful of flour, little salt. Spread over lower crust, then turn on one cupful of sour cream, stirring very lightly, not to break crust. Grate nutmeg over top, and bake in quick oven. Sour Cream Pie, No. 2 One cupful sour cream, one cupful of sugar, one egg, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of flour, salt, cinnamon, and cloves to taste. Beat, and bake between two crusts. Pineapple Turnovers Roll plain paste thin and cut into four-inch squares. Upon each place one rounding tablespoonful of fresh sweetened pineapple drained from the syrup or pineapple preserve. Moisten edges of two sides with water or milk and fold into a triangle, pinching the edges together. Bake, or fry, in deep fat. Serve warm, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Steamed Date Pudding Cream half a cupful of butter, add one cupful of molasses, one cupful of milk, one pound of stoned and 244 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK chopped dates, mixed with two cupfuls of stale bread crumbs, one teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoonful each of clove, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg, mixed and sifted with one cupful of entire wheat flour. Turn into a buttered pudding-tin and steam' three hours. Serve with creamy sauce. Brown Betty To .one quart of milk, one-fourth cupful of Indian meal scalded in the milk, add one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of molasses, a dash of salt and ginger, one table- spoonful of butter, three-quarters of a cupful of raisins, one-half cupful of nuts. Put in oven and bake slowly about three and one-half hours. Rhubarb Pudding Sift together two cupfuls of flour, a pinch of salt, spices as desired, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and half a cupful of sugar. Stir in one egg beaten with half a cupful of milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter; add two cupfuls of rhubarb cut into small pieces (use the pink part with the skin left on), bake twenty minutes, and serve with a sauce. Bread Pudding Pour one quart of hot milk over half of an ordinary loaf of stale bread, mash this mixture until smooth and add one tablespoonful of butter. When this is cool, add three well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful of white sugar, a little nutmeg, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cup- Ivory Cream. Recipe on Page 252. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake. Recipe on Page 245. Gooseberry Amber. Recipe on Page 260. Steamed Rice, Molded and Garnished with Cherries. JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 245 ful of mixed citron, seeded raisins, and currants. Bake or boil this about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot with hard sauce. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake Stem two boxes of strawberries. Reserve one cupful of the nicest berries for the top of the shortcake. Mash the remainder, add a half-cupful of sugar, and stir a minute to dissolve the sugar. Sift one pint of flour with a half-teaspoonful of salt and two level'teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Rub in one tablespoonful of butter, and add enough milk just to moisten. Knead quickly, and roll out in the shape of the pan in which it is to be baked. Brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Pull it apart without cutting you can do this easily with two forks. Remove a portion of the crumb from the center, butter both pieces, place the bottom on the serving-dish, pour over the mashed berries, put on the top, garnish it neatly with the whole berries, dust thickly with powdered sugar, and send to the table with a pitcher of cream. Bunuelos Mix together one cupful of flour, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of sugar. Beat one egg slightly, add three-quarters of a cupful of milk, and combine with dry materials. Add one table- spoonful of olive oil. Fry on a rosette iron in deep fat, and serve with an 246 THE PURE FOOD COOK &OOK Almond Sauce Grind two ounces of blanched almonds, and cook for ten minutes with one and one-half cupfuls of milk and one cupful of sugar. Add the yolk of egg after removing from the fire. Suet Pudding One teacupful of New Orleans molasses, one of sweet milk, one of chopped suet, three and one-half cupfuls of flour, one and one-half cupfuls of raisins, one teaspoon- ful of soda, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, a little salt. Steam three hours. Sauce for Suet Pudding One-half cupful of buttjer creamed with one cupful of sugar, then add five tablespoonfuls of boiling water, one at a time. Flavor. Caramel Bread Pudding Scald one quart of milk, add one-half cupful of sugar which has been caramelized. When caramel is dissolved, pour the milk over two cups of stale bread crumbs. Add two eggs slightly beaten, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one- half teaspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Pour into a buttered pudding dish, and bake slowly one hour. Serve with cream, plain or beaten. Apple and Bread Crumb Pudding Spread the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with a thick layer of bread crumbs well browned. Add lumps 247 of butter, then a layer of well-sweetened apple-sauce, a sprinkling of salt and nutmeg, more lumps of butter, layer of crumbs, alternating with layers of apple-sauce until the dish is filled. Have the top layer of crumbs and butter. Bake covered for half an hour, then remove cover and brown. To elaborate add raisins, currants, and nuts. Serve hot with hard sauce. Apricot Dumplings Drain stewed apricots as dry as possible, and enclose two or three pieces of apricots in a round of rich biscuit dough rolled rather thin. Place the dumplings in a deep basin, sprinkle generously with sugar, nearly cover with boiling juice, dot with butter, and bake in a rather quick oven. Peach recipes can be adapted to dried apricots with delicious results. Brown Sugar Pudding Two cupfuls of light brown sugar; two cupfuls of boiling water, two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, one-half cupful of walnut meats broken into small pieces. Bring sugar and water to a boil. Thicken with corn- starch which has first been moistened in a little cold water. Cook in a double boiler until it is thick. Just before taking from the fire add the nut meats. Serve cold with whipped cream. Baked Indian and Apple Pudding Stir half a cupful of yellow cornmeal into one quart of scalded milk. Cook in a double boiler for 248 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK thirty minutes, then add one teaspoonful each of salt and ginger, and half a cupful of molasses. Pour into a but- tered earthen baking dish, and bake for one hour, stirring occasionally. Add two cupfuls of apples, cored and cut -in eighths, and bake, without stirring, for one hour longer, or until firm. Serve with cream. To Prepare a Souffle Tin Select a plain tin mold which will hold two cupfuls. Butter this well. Butter a double piece of thick white paper, and wrap it around the outside of the tin. Allow the paper to extend two inches above the top of the tin, then tie it securely. The paper should be removed just before serving the souffle. Lemon Pudding Beat the yolks of three eggs, and mix with three- fourths cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of butter. Beat thoroughly and add the juice of three good-sized lemons, with the grated rind of one lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped walnuts. Fold in the whites of three eggs beaten until stiff, and bake in a buttered souffle tin until it sets. Lemon Bread Pudding Soak one cup of bread crumbs one hour in one pint of milk. The bread must be just right; second-day bread is best, not dry, nor broken in pieces, nor grated, but moist enough to be crumbled. Add one-half cup of sugar more if liked the grated rind of one-half a JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 249 lemon, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake slowly about one-half hour. Cool and place on ice. Just before using, if made the day before, beat the whites of the two eggs until stiff, add juice of one-half a lemon, and a little sugar. Place the meringue on the pudding and brown in the oven. Then cool quickly and set on ice, for it adds to the flavor if very cold. Maple Tapioca Pudding Soak one cupful of tapioca in cold water or milk to cover, then cook in a double boiler until clear. Add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, a third-cupful of powdered maple sugar, and one cupful of milk. Mix all thoroughly, then stir in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and bake. If preferred, the whites may be re- served, sweetened, and spread over the baked pudding as a meringue, then lightly browned. Rice Waffles with Maple Syrup Soak one and one-half cupfuls of cooked rice in enough warm water to cover. Add two and two-thirds cupfuls of sour milk, two and one-half cupfuls of sifted flour, one level teaspoonful of salt, and one beaten egg. Beat all together thoroughly, and just before frying, beat in one-half teaspoonful of soda. Have the waffle iron very hot and use plenty of fat. Put a spoonful of the mixture into each compartment, cover and brown, then turn and brown on the other side. Serve the waffles with maple syrup as a luncheon or supper dish. 250 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Persimmon Pudding Two ctipfuls of sugar and a scant cupful of butter rubbed to a cream. Beat the yolks and the whites of five eggs separately and whip the yolks into the creamed butter and sugar. Whip for one minute and add a quart of milk gradually, beating all the while. Now stir in a scant quart of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful of baking powder alternately with the stiffened whites of the eggs. Season to taste with cinnamon and mace (ground). At the last, beat in a quart of persimmons which have been seeded and washed, and run through your vegetable press to a smooth pulp. This should make two large puddings. Bake in buttered molds which have funnels through the middle. They will require an hour's baking in a steady oven. Bake for three-quarters of an hour covered with paper. Turn out carefully, sift powdered sugar over them, and eat hot with cream. This quantity will serve twelve. Foamy Pudding Sauce One cupful of sugar; two eggs. Beat sugar and yolks together in a bowl, set in boiling water. Then add whites, beaten stiff. Put a small piece of butter and one tea- spoonful of vanilla in a bowl and pour the hot sauce over just before serving. Nut Cream Sauce Cream together one-fourth of a cupful of butter and half a cupful of powdered sugar, beating in slowly one tablespoonful of thick maple syrup, three tablespoonfuls JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 251 of whipped cream, and a small cupful of chopped nut meats. Keep in a cool place until ready to serve. Creamy Sauce To the beaten whites of two eggs add one cupful of powdered sugar gradually and one cupful of whipped cream. Add one teaspoonful of vinegar and half a tea- spoonful of vanilla. Use as soon as prepared. Maple Hard Sauce Add one tablespoonful of butter, creamed, to three tablespoonfuls of powdered maple sugar; beat together until creamy, then add one teaspoonful of thick, sweet cream, and beat hard for five minutes. Chill before serving. Maple syrup may be used by boiling it with half its quantity of water until it will make a soft ball when a little is dropped into cold water. Stir until grainy and let it harden ; then grate or grind to a powder. Ambrosia Grate one fresh cocoanut, slice four oranges, four bananas, and one medium-sized pineapple. Fill a dish with alternate layers of all of the fruit and cocoanut, sugaring each layer to taste. Arrange it so that the cocoanut will come on the last layer. Assemble this dish at least three hours before it is to be served, and set on the ice. Sillabub Sweeten and season to taste two cupfuls of milk, and one cupful of thick cream, with vanilla, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Churn this in a sillabub churn or with a 252 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cream whip. Skim off the froth as it rises until it is all whipped and heap this on the dishes and serve imme- diately. This can be served on fresh or warmed-over cakes, or on lady-fingers. Ivory Cream Scald one pint of thin cream ; add three- fourths cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of gelatine, which has been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Cool, add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and as it begins to stiffen fold in one cupful of cream, beaten until stiff. Mold, and serve garnished with whipped cream and maraschino cherries, or use blackberries for both sauce and garnish. Baked Apples with Marshmallow Wash and core tart apples and place in an earthen- ware baking dish with just enough water to cover the bottom. In the center of each apple place a tiny bit of butter and an eighth of a teaspoonful of salt. Cover and bake slowly till thoroughly cooked, adding a little water if necessary. Before the apples are quite done, press into the center of each a marshmallow ; replace in the oven; in three minutes remove the cover and let the apples and marshmallows brown carefully. Serve cold with cream. Pears may be cooked in the same way, cut- ting a slice from the stem end, coring and placing the pear stem end up in the dish. Coffee Souffle Heat one pint of cold coffee with one tablespoonful of gelatine and one-half cupful of sugar. Pour onto the JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 253 slightly beaten yolks of two eggs, cook over water until thickened. Remove from fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla, one-eighth teaspoonful of salt, the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and allow the mixture to cool. As it begins to stiffen fold in one cupful of stiffly beaten cream. Mold and chill. Prune Tapioca Cut into quarters prunes that have been slowly stewed with sugar and a little grated lemon peel, and pour over the fruit when cold the following: Soak a cupful of tapioca in a pint of water for two hours, then cover with rich milk and cook until tender, stirring in just before removing from the fire the yolks of two well-beaten eggs, a heaping tablespoonful of granulated sugar, and a dust- ing of grated nutmeg. Cover all with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs and serve cold with a sauce made from the prune syrup. Apricot Mousse Soak over night half a pound of dried apricots and in the morning cook in the same water until tender, sweet- ening to taste ; then drain and to about a pint of the fruit syrup add a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been dissolved in a little hot water; allow it to cool but not stiffen, and then fold in the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs and a cupful of whipped cream ; beat steadily until it is a light creamy mass, gradually adding the chopped apricots as you beat ; pour carefully into an ornamental mold, placing directly on the ice to chill ; unmold at serv- ing time and serve with an iced custard sauce. 254 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Peach Melba Place in the bottom of a wide-brimmed glass half of a preserved peach, cover this with a layer of French vanilla ice cream, laying the other half of the peach on top : now cap with a tiny pyramid of sweetened whipped cream and pour over two tablespoonfuls of the peach syrup. Serve garnished with small crystallized cherries. Princess Cream Whip one pint of cream, add sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Grate some stale cake (sponge cake preferably), and moisten slightly with milk or water, Take a glass bowl, put in a layer of the cream, then a layer of the cake crumbs, putting little pieces of jelly on top of the cake, then another layer of cream, and so on; the top layer should be of cream decorated with jelly. Hamburg Sponge Place in the upper part of the double boiler one pint of milk, adding two well-beaten eggs and a heaping table- spoonful of sugar. Cook only until well thickened, and then remove from the fire, stirring in half a package of gelatine dissolved in a little hot water. Flavor with the juice and grated rind of an orange, and when the cream begins to cool and stiffen, beat to a foam with an egg- beater, folding in one tablespoonful of powdered sugar and a half pint of cream beaten solid; turn into wide- rimmed glasses that have been lined with macaroons, and place directly on the ice to chill. Serve garnished with crystallized cherries. (Add more sugar, if desired.) JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 255 Grapefruit Cocktails Shred the pulp of three large grapefruit, carefully re- jecting all the white membrane, and place in a china bowl, adding four heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four or five drops of cider vinegar, a little grated nut- meg, and the pulp of three tart oranges; allow the in- gredients to stand in the ice chest over night (so that a rich syrup may form), and when ready to serve put into tall, slender glasses, placing on each portion one or two red cherries. Orange and Grapefruit Cup This should always be prepared at least six hours be- fore serving. Shred, for each portion, half a grapefruit and half of a navel orange, arrange in layers in a stemmed crystal glass, sprinkling each layer with confectioner's sugar; do not fill the glass too full as a delicious syrup will form above the fruit, when placed in the ice chest to chill and ripen. Just before serving add a little cherry syrup, garnishing with the cherries, and serve very cold. Marshmallow Loaf Dissolve one tablespoonful of gelatine in half a cupful of hot water. Stir into this the beaten whites of four eggs. Add one cupful of sugar and half a cupful of cold water. Beat for one minute. Divide this mixture into three or four parts, flavoring each differently, and coloring each differently with vegetable coloring matter. Let this stand until it is stiffened, so that the mixture will not run. Dust a loaf cake tin with powdered sugar. 256 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Put in one color, sprinkle with chopped walnuts, then in turn put in the other colors, with chopped nuts between each layer. Set it on ice to harden, and serve in slices with whipped cream. Apple Custard Take mellow apples of medium size. Pare, core, and bake until tender in a slow oven. Press through a sieve. To each cupful of apple pulp add half a cupful of cream, two level tablespoonfuls of sugar, lump of butter size of egg, and two stiffly beaten eggs. While the apple pulp is still hot, blend into it the butter. Heat the sugar until it is a syrup and add first the yolks of eggs, then the cream, and beat all vigorously. Pour into buttered cups and bake in moderately hot oven for fifteen minutes. Remove from the oven and quickly pour over it the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, return to the oven to brown. Chill, then set in icebox. Serve with cream. Royal Cream Soak one-third of a box of gelatine in one quart of milk for an hour. Beat the yolks of three eggs and add a half-cupful of sugar. Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler. When hot, add the sugar and egg to it, and stir constantly until creamy. Remove from fire, cool, and add the stiffly beaten whites. Beat mixture well for five minutes. Add one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn into a mold. When cold, serve with whipped or sweet- ened cream. JUST HOW .TO MAKE DESSERTS 257 Cocoanut Blancmange Mix one-fourth cupful of cornstarch and one-fourth cupful of sugar with a little cold water. Add to two cupfuls of scalded milk and stir until it thickens. Cook in a double boiler for twenty minutes, stirring oc'ca- sionall>. Cool slightly, add one cupful of shredded cocoanut, the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, and one- fourth of a cupful of candied or Maraschino cherries, cut in small pieces. Chill in molds, wet with cold water, and serve with cream or a soft custard made with the yolks of eggs. Jellied Oatmeal Place three cupfuls of water and one of milk in the upper part of the double boiler, add a pinch of salt, and when boiling, stir in two cupfuls of oatmeal ; cover closely and cook for two hours over hot water ; then add, just previous to serving, one large cupful of stiffly whipped cream ; serve in small dishes, sprinkle thickly with chopped nuts, and accompany with sugar and thick cream. Angel Custard Heat a quart of milk in the double boiler and then pour it slowly on the stiffly whipped whites of four eggs ; sweeten the custard with two scant tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar, flavoring with a drop or two of almond extract and one teaspoonful of vanilla and turn into small custard cups ; set the cups in a pan of hot water and 258 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cook in a moderate oven, until firm ; then cover the tops with grated macaroon crumbs. Pear Condet .Cook one-third cupful of washed rice in milk until rice is tender. Add two eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar, one-third teaspoonful salt. Turn on to a serving dish, and on it arrange halves of canned pears, which have been cooked in the syrup. Sprinkle rice and pears with finely cut preserved ginger. Banana Compote Make a syrup by boiling together one cupful of sugar and two-thirds of a cupful of water ten minutes. Add grated rind and juice of half a lemon, one-fourth tea- spoonful of vanilla, and let stand until perfectly cold. Pour, over four bananas halved and quartered. When thoroughly chilled, sprinkle with finely chopped nuts, and serve with beaten cream. Maple Cup Custards Beat three eggs slightly, add a pinch of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of scraped maple sugar. Pour over all three cupfuls of hot milk with one-fourth cupful of thick cream. Of course the latter may be omitted, if liked. Fill the custard into wetted custard cups, place these in a dish of hot water, and bake in a very slow oven until the custard is set. Grape Juice Souffle To one pint of grape juice, add two tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine, and heat until gelatine is dissolved. Strawberry Compote. Recipe on Page 259. Orange Surprise. Recipe on Page 260. Choux Pastry. Recipe on Page 390. Strawberry Charlotte. Recipe on Page 259. JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 259 Strain and cool. When mixture begins to stiffen, beat in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs, and fold in one cupful of stiffly beaten cream. Turn into molds and chill. Jellied Prunes Cook one-third pound of prunes until soft; remove stones, and cut meat in pieces. Soak one-half box of gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water, and add to one pint of the syrup in which prunes were cooked. Add one cupful of sugar, one-fourth cupful of lemon juice, and the prunes. Mold and chill. Serve with plain or whipped cream. Strawberry Charlotte Mash one box of prime berries through a colander, add two-thirds of a cupful of powdered sugar, and stir until it is dissolved. Soak a half-box of granulated gelatine in a half-cupful of cold water for thirty min- utes, then melt it over hot water. Add the strawberry juice, and stir continually until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in a pint of cream whipped. Pour into a mold, and stand on ice to harden. Serve plain. Strawberry Compote Boil one cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and a half-cupful of water together until they spin a thread. Pour, while hot, over one box of hulled berries. Heap one cupful of boiled rice in the platter, pour the hot berries over it, and serve either plain or with cream or milk. 26o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Raspberry Jelly Over a small box of raspberries sprinkle a cup and a half of powdered sugar, and allow to stand until sugar is melted. Crush through a colander there should be a pint of juice, but if not, add enough water to make a pint of liquid. Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in a cup of warm water, and stir into the fruit juice, put- ting into the refrigerator to harden. When serving, place cubes of the gelatine in a tall glass, with a layer of whipped cream between and on top of layers of the jelly. This is much improved by pouiing the juice of more raspberries over the whole. Gooseberry Amber Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan ; when melted add one and a half pounds of gooseberries, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of one lemon. Let stew slowly until soft, then rub through a sieve. Beat in the yolks of .three eggs, and add half a teaspoonful of powdered ginger. Line a pudding dish with good pastry. Cut out some of the pastry into small fancy rounds, brush the edge of the pastry with a little water, arrange the rounds' of pastry on it, overlapping each other. Put the gooseberry mixture into the dish and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Cover with a meringue and brown slowly. Orange Surprise Cut oranges in halves. Remove juice and pulp, leav- ing the skins in good condition. For a pint of juice, soften half a package of gelatine in one-half cupful of JUST HOW TO MAKE DESSERTS 261 cold water, and dissolve it in one-half cupful of boiling water. Add one cupful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon. Add orange juice and strain. Mold the jelly in teacups wet with cold water. Fill to the height required to fill the orange skins. Decorate jelly with almonds, candied cherries, and cooked sultana raisins. When ready to serve, remove from cups to skins. Cover with meringue and brown delicately in a very hot oven. 262 MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 263 " y - 264 MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS SALADS By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. HE salad has almost the same relation to the last part of the dinner that the soup has to the first. In other words, the salad should not be so much a food as a condiment. While this is true of many salads, it is quite untrue of some others. The ideal dinner salad is lettuce, romaine, endive or water cress with or without tomato. The lobster, potato, and chicken salads are, however, concentrated foods. They are very properly served as the chief item at a stand-up function, or the principal supper or luncheon dish, but are not at all suited for bringing a substantial dinner to a close. I say advisedly " to a close," because too often the dessert merely adds a heavy, indigestible sweet to the menu, tempting the diner to eat when he has already had enough, and it would be well to stop the dinner with the salad, or content one's self with a little fruit or a few nuts. Lettuce and tomatoes are composed chiefly of water. The oil in the salad dressing is nutritious, of course, furnishing an abundant supply of heat and energy, but comparatively little of it is used, and even including this, a salad cannot be regarded as a very sub- stantial addendum to the meal. Vegetable salads should be well washed to remove any adhering dust or dirt, as well as to be certain that no harmful germs are retained upon them. It is true 265 266 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK that mere washing will not remove harmful germs, but they are not so often attached to the lettuce or to the tomato as they are to the dust and dirt which may adhere to them. A thorough washing of these materials, there- fore, before the preparation of the salad is a sanitary measure of great importance. The use of the salad among American families should be encouraged. It is too infrequently found on our tables, especially among farmers, who grow abundant salad materials in the garden. The attractive recipes which follow will do much, I am sure, to earn for the salad the increased popularity that it deserves. Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. Recipe on Page 267. Cucumbers and Cress. A Spring Salad Crisp and Appetising. sr/ Tomatoes and Endive Salad Garnished with Capers. Serve a French Dressing with this. Pond Lily Salad. Recipe on Page 274. A CHAPTER OF SALADS Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad Cook one and one-half cupfuls of chicken stock or wa f er with one finely chopped onion, one chopped red pepper, one teaspoon fill of salt, and one tablespoonful of- Worcestershire. Cook three eggs until hard, and cool. Soak, in enough cold water to cover, two tablespoonfuls of gelatine. Add the hot stock to the gelatine, and when thoroughly dissolved pour into an oblong wetted mold to the depth of one-half an inch. Set on ice until stiff- ened. Then arrange slices of the hard cooked egg on the jelly. Finally add the remainder of the eggs cut in slices and two cupfuls of diced chicken meat to the hot stock, and pour all into the mold. Chill and serve in slices with salad dressing, either with or without lettuce. Stuffed Egg Salad Boil four eggs until hard, and after shelling, cut length- wise into halves ; remove the yolks and beat to a paste, adding a tablespoonful of chili sauce, two tablespoonfuls of minced chicken, and a teaspoonful of melted butter; when blended fill into the egg whites, and arrange on a bed of crisp heart lettuce leaves, pouring over a thick boiled dressing and garnishing with capers and slices of pickled beets. 267 '268 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Roast Beef Salad A very rare piece of roast beef is excellent for the salad. Cut in very thin pieces, and marinate in a French dressing to which a slice of onion finely chopped has been added. Serve on a platter garnished with potato salad, pickled beets, and lettuce. Note: Any cold left-over vegetables may be mari- nated, and used as a garnish. Dandelions with Bacon A German salad is made as follows : Chop some tender young dandelion leaves in a bowl and in the meantime place some strips of bacon to fry out in a pan. When this is crisp add a cupful of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and two beaten eggs. Heat this and pour it over the greens. Serve with boiled-egg rings and the strips of bacon. Spinach Salad Wash thoroughly and boil a half-peck of spinach. If it is young and tender cook in its own juices, heating it, in a saucepan, very gradually to prevent burning. Cook twenty-five minutes or until tender. Old spinach is bet- ter cooked in boiling, salted water. Allow two quarts of water to one peck of spinach. When tender drain the spinach and chop it with six hard cooked eggs. Add one cupful of toasted bread crumbs and one-half-cupful of minced boiled ham, if liked. Pack in small cups or molds. Chill on ice and when ready to serve surround A CHAPTER OF SALADS 269 each mold on the serving plate with olives, and dress with mayonnaise. Red Pepper Salad Mix one-half can of pimientos or sweet peppers with one cream cheese. Beat into the mixture sufficient mayonnaise to soften it slightly and add a few drops of onion juice, more if a decided onion flavor is liked. Pack in a mold, chill on ice, and when ready to serve, cut in slices, and place on crisp lettuce leaves. This makes a good luncheon salad. Cucumber Jelly Salad Peel two cucumbers and cut in slices, add one slice of onion, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Simmer until cucumbers are tender in one pint of water. Add one tablespoonful of gelatine, dissolved in warm water. Line a mold with slices of fresh cucumber cut very thin, and pour in the jelly slowly. Set in the ice box to chill. Turn out on a bed of lettuce heart leaves and serve with French dressing, which has been mixed with a piece of ice until it is nearly as thick as mayon- naise. Potato and Tomato Salad Cut four cold boiled potatoes into cubes; and two tomatoes into eighths. Thoroughly mix the potatoes with three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one tablespoonful of Tarragon vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste, and one tablespoonful of finely cut chives. 270 Mound in the center of a platter, surround with the sections of tomatoes, and a border of lettuce leaves. Okra Salad Cut the little buttons from the ends of the fresh okras, then wash them and put them in a pot and cover them well with boiling water. Let them boil vigorously for twenty minutes, then take them -off the stove, strain them, and put them in the ice box. Serve with French dressing. Beet and Pepper Salad Thinly slice four small boiled beets. Remove the seeds from and parboil two green peppers five minutes, then cut in strips. When very cold, serve in nests of lettuce with a French dressing made as follows : Mix together four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one tablespoon- ful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and, if liked, one tea- spoonful of finely chopped onion or shallots. Tomato Jelly Salad Turn into saucepan the contents of a can of tomatoes, adding a bay leaf, one teaspoonful of brown sugar, a pinch each of allspice and ground nutmeg, half a chopped onion, a half-teaspoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper ; simmer slowly, pouring in a little cold water if it becomes too thick, and strain through a puree sieve, stir- ring into each pint of liquid a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been dissolved in half a cupful o-f hot water; turn into small ring molds, and when cold and firm, A CHAPTER OF SALADS 271 mold in nests of crisp lettuce leaves, filling the center with a mayonnaise of celery; garnish with tiny stuffed olives and small capers. Cabbage Salad Select a well-shaped, crisp head of cabbage. Remove the coarse outer leaves, take out the heart of the cab- bage, and cut the edges into points. Chop the removed cabbage finely, discarding all coarse stalks or ribs. Sea- son with salt, pepper, and equal measures of salted whipped cream and mayonnaise dressing, and mix' to- gether thoroughly. Fill the open space in the cabbage with this mixture, and decorate with finely chopped beets. Garnish with parsley. Crisp the cabbage before cutting by letting it stand an hour or more, head downward, in very cold water. Waldorf Salad Chop rather finely four tart apples (squeezing over a little lemon juice), add two cupfuls of chopped white celery, and one cupful of mixed nut meats; toss the in- gredients lightly together, blending in a large cupful of mayonnaise dressing, and arrange in individual portions in nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with grated egg yolks and tiny pink radishes. A cream dressing can also be used here. Cleveland Salad Four cupfuls of boiling water, three lemons, one pack- age of gelatine, four cucumbers, and one-quarter of a can of pimientos, salt to taste, and paprika as desired. 272 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Make a hot unsweetened lemonade, add a pinch of salt and paprika. Dissolve the gelatine in a cupful of water. When it is dissolved, mix it with the lemonade. Slice the cucumbers very thin and add the peppers, put both in a large mold, and pour the lemon gelatine over all. Set in the refrigerator over night. Serve with mayonnaise on a bed of lettuce. Pineapple Salad Cut into strips three slices of Hawaiian pineapple and one canned red pepper. Place on ice until time of serv- ing, then place on heart leaves of lettuce, and partially cover with cream mayonnaise, made as follows : Beat until stiff one-half cup heavy cream, and add three table- spoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing, and season with salt and paprika. If the mayonnaise has separated from standing, it will become smooth .when added to the cream. Hawaiian Salad Choose any brand of Hawaiian pineapple and drain the slices carefully. Place one slice on each serving plate, which already holds the blanched leaves from lettuce hearts. In the center of the pineapple place a small ball of Roquefort cheese which has been softened until it can be molded with a little cream or milk. Add a few broken nuts, or omit these, if preferred. And, of course, a mild-flavored cheese may be used, but the Roquefort cheese is peculiarly happy. Dress with a French dress- ing, to which are added two tablespoonfuls of stiffly beaten cream. A CHAPTER OF SALADS 273 Grape Salad From one cup of Malaga or any other large grapes, remove the seeds, and fill the cavity with finely chopped or ground nuts walnuts preferred. Chop one large stalk of celery very fine and keep on the ice or in some cool place until ready to serve. A little while before serving, mix the grapes and celery together with a mayonnaise or cooked dressing to which two tablespoon- fuls of cream have been added. Serve on chicory that has been kept on ice until it is firm and crisp. If chicory cannot be had, shred curly cabbage or lettuce. Either the feathery chicory, shredded lettuce, or curly cabbage gives the appearance of grass under the tent. The tents are made of cheese-sticks in the following manner: One and one-half cupfuls of flour, a little salt, one- half teaspoonful of baking powder, one-quarter of a cup- ful of shortening ; mix with ice-cold water ; roll out very thin and spread with. grated cheese; fold and roll again; cut into oblong pieces about four by six inches ; then with the back of a silver knife mark dough into strips half an inch wide, but do not cut clear through; sprinkle again with grated cheese, and bake in a hot oven ; when done, cut through the center crosswise and bend in the shape of a " V " tent ; on top stick the miniature Valley Forge flag ; place the tent over the salad as in the picture. The tent may be eaten with the salad. Cherry Salad Ripe red cherries, one head of lettuce, quarter of a pound of filberts, and mayonnaise dressing. Blanch the filberts by soaking in boiling water and rubbing off the skins. Remove the stones from the cherries and re- 274 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK place them with the filberts. Arrange lettuce leaves in nests, place cherries in the center, and serve with mayon- naise dressing. Red and White Currant and Raspberry Salad Take one pound of white currants and one pound of red currants, pick off their stalks. Place the red cur- rants in the center of the dish on which the salad is to be served; then arrange around them alternately the white currants and raspberries. Whip up some cream, sweeten it and send to the table separately. Pond Lily Salad Remove the shells from four eggs cooked hard and around the center of each egg, with a small, sharp knife, cut deep a zigzag line. Separate the egg, following the line marked, which will give the top's an uneven surface, with scalloped or pointed edges. Wash the lettuce and throw into cold water. When crisp, remove, and shake out all the water. Arrange the egg, with its white edge and yellow center, on a lettuce leaf, like a pond lily with its pod. Garnish with small ornamentations of beet, cut in the shape of mushrooms. Serve at once with French dressing. Crab Meat Salad Use twice as much crab meat as celery. Cut vege- table stalks into fine pieces and stir them into the may- onnaise. Break the meat into pieces of uniform size, heap it upon a bed of lettuce leaves, and pour the dress- ing over the mount. Serve cold. Hawaiian Salad. Recipe given on Page 272. Grape Salad in Tent. Recipe given on Page 273. A CHAPTER OF SALADS 275 Sardine Salad Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces and finely chop enough parsley to make one-half of a teaspoonful. Remove the skin and bones from a small box of sar- dines, then break the fish into small pieces. Lightly toss the celery, parsley, and fish together, and let them get very cold before serving. Serve cold. Oyster Salad Small oysters are best to use for salad, as cutting the large ones is apt to make the dish look unattractive. Scald the bivalves in their own liquor until the edges curl slightly. Drain them, wash to remove all pieces of shell, and set them on the ice to chill until serving time. To every quart of oysters allow two large stalks of celery cut into quarter-inch pieces. When time to serve toss the fish and vegetables lightly together in the salad bowl and pour over them a dressing made according to this recipe : Beat the yolks of three eggs until they are lemon colored, then add one level teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful each of pepper and prepared mustard, the grated yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and, lastly, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil poured in very slowly while the mixture is being beaten. Beat well until smooth, then, while stirring briskly, thin with three tablespoon- fuls of lemon juice. Mild vinegar can be substituted for the lemon juice if desired. A suggestion of horseradish and tabasco sauce is used with this combination. Mayonnaise Dressing Beat the yolk of one egg in a cold dish with a silver or wooden fork. Add one cupful of oil, drop by drop, 276 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK beating thoroughly. When it begins to thicken it may be thinned with lemon juice or vinegar, using two tea- spoonfuls in all. When all the oil and vinegar is mixed, the seasonings may be quickly and thoroughly beaten in. Use one-half teaspoonful each of salt and mustard, and a dash of red pepper. It is usually the salt which causes the mayonnaise to separate. This same mayonnaise may be mixed very quickly with a Dover egg-beater, but none of the quickly-made dressings will last without separat- ing, as will those made by the slower drop by drop method. Chiffonade Dressing This is extremely good to serve on lettuce, romaine, or any green salad. Into a glass jar put one hard- boiled egg, finely chopped, one teaspoonful of finely cut chives, one tablespoonful each of chopped red and green pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, one- half cupful of olive oil, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. Allow it to become very cold, and just before serving shake the contents of the jar thoroughly. Chili Dressing Mix together six tablespoonfuls olive oil, two table- spoonfuls vinegar, one teaspoonful Tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful finely chopped onion, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, one-fourth teaspoon- ful paprika, and two tablespoonfuls chili sauce. Let stand several hours, shake well, and serve on the salad. A CHAPTER OF SALADS 277 Roquefort Cheese Dressing Mix together half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of teaspoonful of white pepper, six tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and when well mixed add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice. Beat all together until an emulsion is formed. Add to this an eighth of a pound of Roquefort cheese, crushed fine, and a little chopped pimiento. Serve on lettuce, chicory, or endive. Roquefort Sandwiches Cream one-half cupful of butter, and add one-fourth pound of ripe Roquefort cheese; mix until smooth; season with one-half teaspoonful of paprika, one-half clove of garlic (finely chopped), and salt to taste. Moisten with a little cream to make of right consistency to spread. Put between very thin slices of brown bread, or entire wheat bread. Cut into small shapes, and serve with the salad. 278 MORE WAYS OF MAKING SALADS MORE WAYS OF MAKING SALADS 279 POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. HE function of the potato and other vege- tables is two-fold. The potato is hardly a succulent vegetable, but green corn, green peas, green beans, radishes, tomatoes, and similar articles of diet are composed chiefly of water. The potato itself has about seventy- five per cent, of water, while a radish has close to ninety-five per cent. In other words, a succulent vegetable like the radish is not much more than solidified water. It seems strange that a body containing ninety- five per cent, of water can be as firm and hard as a radish. It shows that the distribution of the materials forming the cells in which the water is contained is most advantageously made. The potato is, of course, a nourishing vegetable. It is composed largely of starch, although it has some protein and mineral matters of value, but it is essentially a starchy food. Its chief value as a food product lies in this fact. It is, therefore, a vegetable which is admirably adapted to supplementing a meat, fish, or poultry diet. The desire to eat potatoes with meat is not solely a function of taste. It is also a function of nutrition. I have said that meats, including poultry and fish, are not a balanced diet. They become so, however, when eaten with potatoes. The sanitary properties of the potato are well known. 281 282 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Plenty of potatoes will prevent scurvy in long voyages. In this the potato is not superior to other vegetables, but it can be better preserved and carried longer distances than most others. Peas and beans in the green state are more succulent than the potatoes and they also have quite a different chemical composition, the nitrogenous elements being dominant. A diet composed largely of these vegetables is, therefore, one which approaches the character of a meat diet. Nevertheless, it should not be forgotten that although peas and beans contain large quantities of nitrogen they are still very well balanced, as in a green state they carried both starch and sugar and digestible cellulose. The succulent vegetables have a distinct function in nutrition because of their salutary influence upon the digestive functions. With raw fruits, succulent vege- tables exert a most favorable influence on peristalsis and secure regular and proper movements of the bowels. Thus they not only minister to the taste and afford valu- able nutrients, but they also have what may be called a regulating or medicinal effect upon digestion. The po- tato being largely starch should be avoided in cases of a tendency to obesity. By the average person, or es- pecially by thin people, they are, on the contrary, to be eaten with freedom and benefit. Fortunately, the ad- vance in methods of preservation has rendered it pos- sible to have succulent vegetables at all seasons of the year. The process of sterilizing fresh vegetables, com- monly known as canning, extends the season from spring to winter. The people of the country are justly having more and more confidence in canned goods, so-called, because of the efforts of the canners themselves through their powerful organization to improve the quality of the materials used and the processes of preservation. POTATOES AND OTHER VEGETABLES 283 The use of artificial coloring matters and preservatives in goods of this kind has practically ceased, and the prejudice which has so long existed against them may well be laid aside. In the diet of man a generous por- tion of succulent vegetables finds a fitting place. JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES HE best way to cook potatoes is to bake them in their jackets in an oven of 450 degrees to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. This seems like a high temperature, but the potato inside does not get hotter than 212 degrees, and cooks by steam thoroughly. When the potato is taken out of the oven it must be pricked or broken at once, to permit the escape of the steam which has been generated in the cooking process, and which if not given egress, will condense into water and make the potato soggy and quite indigestible. If it is pricked with a fork it is best to warm the prongs for a few seconds before using in the first potato, to prevent, as much as possible, any condensation resulting from the hot steam coming into contact with the cold metal of the fork. It is easy to see that in this process there is no chance for loss and that if the potato is scraped out well from the skin (where lie many of the potash salts), pretty full potato value is secured. Never cut open a baked potato; always break it of it will'be not mealy, but soggy, and barely fit to eat. The next best method in point of economy is to cook by steaming. Although the baking is a partial steaming process the actual steaming in the jackets not only renders the potato deliciously palatable, but the subsequent removal of the skins, before eating, if done carefully, does not carry away much of the valuable mineral salts. Steaming takes a little longer, but it is a good method 285 286 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of cooking, ensuring little waste not only with potatoes, but with all vegetables. The process of boiling brings with it the question of boiling in the jackets, boiling without the jackets, the use of salt in the water, and the tempera- ture at which to start the potatoes. The most ap- proved method is that of boiling the potato in the jacket and of beginning the process with hot water. This takes less time, and preserves the flavor. Potatoes boiled without their jackets lose, of course, a great part of their mineral salts and tissue-making material, and they lose also much of the flavor which is imparted to them from the layer cut off in paring. If salt be added after fifteen minutes, when the potatoes are about half cooked, this may save some of the mineral matter and add a little to the flavor of the potatoes. Because potatoes are so lacking in fat, proteid, and mineral matter, it has become an invariable rule, con- sciously or unconsciously, to eat them with meats, and to prepare them so as to introduce the food constituents they lack. Thus creamed potatoes and potato au gratin introduce fat and proteid, and make pretty well-propor- tioned dishes, though, of course, on account of the super- abundance of starch, such dishes are not adapted to steady diet. Undoubtedly, like any other article of food the potato must be prepared attractively. It must not only look well, but must have a pleasant aroma. Boiled Potatoes Scrub the potatoes, scrape them if desired, and put in hot water. Boil until tender. If the potatoes are old and have become dry by evaporation it is sometimes Potatoes, French Fried. Recipe given on Page 287. Stuffed Eggplant. Recipe given on Page Apples and Sweet Potatoes. Recipe given on Page 293. A Christmas Garnish for the Mashed Potatoes. Holly Leaves are cut from Green and the Berries from Red Peppers. JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 287 wise to soak them for a little while in cold water, or to start them over the fire in cold water. Drain until dry, dust with salt, and cover with a thick cloth until ready to serve; then serve with garnish of parsley. Baked Potatoes Scrub with a vegetable brush, put into hot oven (500 degrees Fahrenheit), and let cook until thoroughly soft, (forty-five minutes, or longer if the potatoes are large). Turn the potatoes occasionally to insure their baking evenly. Upon removal from the oven, break the skins at once or thoroughly prick with a warm fork prong to permit the escape of steam. Then wrap loosely in a napkin and slip potatoes and napkin into a dish, and serve. Potato, French Fried Scrape three or four potatoes, wash them thoroughly, and then cut into strips ; wash them after they are cut, and dry thoroughly in a cloth. Have ready a pan of very hot clarified fat ; put the potatoes into a f rying- basket, plunge into the fat, and fry the potatoes until they are brown and crisp, When done, drain, sprinkle with salt, and serve on a folded napkin. This is sufficient for five persons. Savory Potatoes Six or eight potatoes, two small onions, one table- spoonful of finely chopped parsley, one heaping teaspoon- ful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth tea- 288 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK spoonful of white pepper, half a cupful of milk, half-cup- ful of water, three heaping tablespoonfuls grated cheese. Put the butter in bottom of saucepan. Pare the potatoes thinly, chop onions and parsley, mix salt and pepper to- gether on a saucer. Cut the potatoes into slices and put a layer in the saucepan. Sprinkle in a little seasoning, then onion and parsley. Begin again with the potatoes and alternate. When all are used pour in the water. Cover closely and cook gently for twenty minutes. Now pour in the milk and allow it to cook for another fifteen minutes. Lift the potatoes carefully on a flat dish, and strew the grated cheese over them and brown in the oven. This dish may be cooked in a casserole. Stuffed Potatoes Bake the potatoes, and when they are done, take out of the oven, cut them in halves, and scoop the potatoes out of their jackets. Mash them until they are smooth with milk, butter, paprika, and salt. Put them back again into their jackets, and put them in the oven for a few minutes to heat and brown on the top. Anna Potatoes Cut about eight cold cooked potatoes into thin round slices, place them in a dish, sprinkle over them two table- spoonfuls of grated Parmesan or American cheese and two tablespoonfuls of fresh bread crumbs ; spread well over them a piece of butter about the size of a nut, then place the dish in the oven. After ten minutes, when a golden brown, serve. This can be made in as many layers as desired. Paprika, if desired, adds flavor to this. JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 289 Nut-Filled Potatoes Bake until soft and mealy six good-sized potatoes, prick to let off steam, and then cut directly in halves where they were pricked, and with a sharp spoon remove the pulp from the skins, turning into a warmed mixing- bowl ; mash thoroughly, adding a small cupful of rich milk or cream, salt and paprika to taste, one tablespoon- ful of minced parsley, one tablespoonful of melted butter, a pinch of poultry seasoning, and a small cupful of nut meats that have been passed through the meat chopper; beat with a fork until very light and creamy and return to shells, which, after dusting, with browned bread crumbs, are placed in a hot oven for ten minutes to crisp and brown; serve garnished with small bunches of parsley. Stuffed Potatoes with Cheese Bake until soft five or six medium-sized potatoes, and with a sharp knife cut directly in halves, carefully re- moving the cooked potatoes into a mixing bowl; now mash with a potato masher, and, when free from lumps, add a teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of minced parsley, half a cupful of rich milk, one small cupful of grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste ; beat with a fork until light and creamy and heap into the potato skins, dusting the tops with grated cheese, and return to the oven until crisp and brown on top. Serve very hot. Chantilly Potatoes Prepare some nicely seasoned, light, mashed potatoes, and mound on a platter. Beat one-half cupful of cream 290 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK until stiff, add one-half cupful of soft cheese, grated and seasoned with salt and paprika. Pile lightly onto the potato and set on the top grate of the oven until the sur- face is nicely browned. Be sure that the oven is very hot. Molded Potatoes Press left-over mashed potatoes into baking-powder cans and chill. Slice in neat rounds, lay on a buttered dripping-pan in the oven, and bake till they become puffy and a delicate brown. Serve with broiled steak as a garnish. Potato Puff Add to two cupfuls of hot mashed potatoes, two table- spoonfuls of butter, two well-beaten eggs, one-half cup- ful of milk, salt and pepper to taste. Put in a deep buttered baking-dish, and bake about twenty minutes in hot oven. Potatoes Rissolees New potatoes, or old ones which are cut down to the size of new ones, may be treated as follows : Fry in deep fat until a golden brown, sprinkle with salt, and place in a pan; set in the oven until the potatoes are soft throughout. They may be served with or without a cream sauce. Potato Puffs Season two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes with salt, pepper, celery salt, and chopped parsley. Add the beaten JUST HOW TO COOK POTATOES 291 yolk of one egg and sufficient flour to make it of the con- sistency to roll on a well-floured board. It should be one-half inch thick. Cut in circles four inches in diam- eter; place one tablespoonful or more of well-seasoned, chopped cold meat, moistened slightly with gravy or stock, upon one-half of each, moisten edges with cold water, fold, press together, and fry in deep fat. Serve hot. Mint Potatoes Wash small potatoes and rub off the skins with a coarse towel, or pare and scrape them. Put into boiling water with sprigs of mint sufficient to flavor them well ; and cook until done, drain, and serve with drawn butter. Mashed White Potatoes and Turnips Prepare as mashed potatoes, adding an equal quantity of boiled and mashed turnips. Add three tablespoonfuls of butter to each pint of potato and turnip, with salt and pepper to taste. Fried Potatoes with Spanish Sauce Chop fine some cold boiled potatoes. Season and saute in hot fat until golden brown. Fold over like an omelet, slip on a platter, and pour over the potatoes the following sauce : Boil together for ten minutes, one-half can of tomatoes, one-half can of shredded pimientoes, and one-half can of button mushrooms. Season with salt, butter, and paprika or pepper. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a cream with two table- spoonfuls of butter. Add to the sauce, cook until 292 THE PURE FOOD COOK fiOOK smoothly thickened, stirring all the time. If liked, a little chopped onion may be used as an additional sea- soning. Potato Chowder Cut a slice of pork into small dice, fry to a light brown in a soup kettle. Then add three medium-sized potatoes and one onion, put through the meat chopper, or slice in small bits. Add pepper and salt and dredge over a little flour, cover with water and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Then add a pint and a half of hot milk. Let it all come to a boil, add a small piece of butter, and serve with toasted crackers. A tomato cut in small dice, or a little left-over stewed tomatoes, may be added. Scalloped Sweet Potatoes Boil the potatoes without peeling until half done. Scrape off the skins while they are hot and leave them to get cold. Then cut into slices almost half an inch thick, and arrange in a buttered baking-dish, scattering bits of butter and a little sugar (a teaspoonful to the layer) between them. When the dish is rilled in this order, pour in a cupful of boiling water in which a table- spoonful of butter has been melted. Cover with bread crumbs dry and fine dot these with butter, and sprin- kle with salt and pepper. Cook, closely covered, for half an hour until brown. This is a Southern recipe and the product is delicious. A Dixie Potato Pie To half a pint of fresh milk, add one cupful of sweet potatoes, well mashed, with one tablespoonful of butter, 293 and one-eighth cupful of cream, or milk. Beat until this is light and creamy. Into this mixture beat very lightly the yolks of four eggs; add nutmeg and sugar to taste and the grated rind of one lemon or one small orange. A white meringue may be added to the top if desired. Browned Sweet Potatoes Select potatoes of uniform size, and pare; place in a frying-pan, and add water to a depth of about one-half inch. Add one tablespoonful of butter or other shorten- ing, and one tablespoonful of brown or white sugar. Cover and let boil furiously. The water will soon dis- appear as steam, and the potatoes will brown in the syrup that remains, which forms a delicious crust, keep- ing in the steam and flavor. Apples and Sweet Potatoes Peeled, sliced apples, and sweet potatoes (the potatoes are previously boiled, peeled, and sliced), arranged in alternate rows, are very good served with roast loin of pork or chops. Butter a shallow casserole, and lay enough butter over the potatoes and apples to moisten the whole. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. Add sugar if the apples are very tart. Sweet Potato Waffles To one cupful of mashed sweet potatoes add one cup- ful of flour, one-fourth cupful of sugar, one cupful of milk, one-half cupful of melted butter, and two eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately. Cook on a waffle- iron. 294 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES 295 296 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POTATOES OUSEKEEPERS have always found diffi- culty in making certain fruit juices " jell " some, such as those of the ordinary summer strawberry, raspberry, and other oversweet or overripe fruits, because they lack sufficient acid, and others, such as the juices from rhubarb, pineapple, and orange, which have sufficient acid, because they have not enough pectin, the jelly-making property of fruits. Recently, however, it was discovered at the University of Illinois, through ex- periments following those of Alice Dyar Russell with sweet fruits, that the lack of acid can be offset with tartaric acid. With this addition, perfect jelly can be made from even ripe blueberries; and Miss Goldthwaite, also of the University of Illinois, discovered further that by using the inner white rind of the orange, together with a certain proportion of its juice, rhubarb, the de- spair of generations of jelly-makers, can be supplied with pectin, and made to " jell." Valuable as is this latter discovery, it still cannot greatly help the women of those regions where the orange, either from lack of regular supply or because of its expense, is not yet a " stand-by." It is particularly to these women that the latest discovery concerning the citron-melon will mean much; for it has been found that the enormous proportion of pectin which it contains may 297 298 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK be practically applied in "jelling" a number of fruits that contain little pectin o.f their own. Unfortunately, the citron-melon is but little cultivated to-day. Although it can be found in many parts of the country, it usually appears only as a " volunteer," the re- sult of plantings of many years ago. Yet before the in- troduction of the now familiar commercial or real citron a candied citrus product the citron-melon was so universally employed for the same purposes, for which the commercial citron is HOW used, that some recipes and writers still mention the common market melon of to-day as " citron " or " the citron." Such confused usage might be accepted as a quaint and harmless reminder of the past, were it not for this recent discovery which makes the old-time garden product of new interest and value to every woman who makes jelly. For the citron- melon still possesses those qualities that once made it esteemed qualities capable of solving what have usually been the home jelly-maker's greatest problem. Further- more, these melons can be so easily and inexpensively grown that there is no reason why, once she knows of them, every woman should not be able to avail herself of their advantages. Although this pectin attribute which it contains has not been unknown to scientists at large, it was made to serve no practical purpose in the home until Mr. and Mrs. Theodore Mead, of Lake Charm, Oviedo, Florida, began experiments with guava jelly. Because of its peculiar character, the ordinary guava usually, upon first acquaintance, proves a stumbling- block in jelly-making, even to skilled and careful house- wives; and when Mr. and Mrs. Mead first came to Florida, though Mrs. Mead brought an unusual amount of brain-power to bear upon the guava, even she was JELLIES AND PRESERVES 299 balked by its refusal to " jell." Mr. Mead a graduate of both the regular and agricultural courses at Cornell, by instinct and training a chemist, and also specially in- terested, as a practical pomologist, in all Florida fruits suggested adding to the guava some pulp from citron- melons, which were then plentiful in their grove. Mrs. Mead did this, and immediately the stubborn juice " jelled." But as her experience grew and she learned to overcome the obstinacy of the guava, she preferred to use only its pulp and juice, and she did not carry out further experiments with the citron-melon. Experi- ments with it in connection with the guava and a num- ber of other fruits have been carried on by the writer, however, and have continued to prove its practicability and value as " first aid " to jelly-makers. Rhubarb Jelly Rhubarb is almost unknown in Florida, where the ex- periments were made, yet two or three trials with it proved satisfactory equal amounts of citron-melon and rhubarb were cut into small cubes, and for each two quarts one half-pint of water was added at first and later a scant pint. Very little additional water is ever needed with citron-melon. The mixture was cooked very slowly, with frequent stirring and mashing, until it formed a soft pulp, resembling thick rhubarb sauce. It was then drained for twenty-four hours, measured, boiled for fif- teen minutes being skimmed meantime. Then an equal measure of sugar was added. Fifteen minutes was al- lowed for boiling skimming again and then, having " jelled," it was poured into glasses. With the next ex- periment, one quart each of rhubarb, melon, and water 300 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK were used, cooked not so thick as in the first experi- ment in a fireless cooker and drained but twelve hours. The resulting juice was thinner, and required longer to " jell." Orange Jelly Three trials, also, were made with orange jelly com- bined with the citron-melon, using, in small cubes, equal measures of citron-melon pulp, and the inner, soft pulp, and juice, of the orange. Neither white nor yellow rind was added, and no water. This combination was brought to a boil in the morning, then placed in a fireless cooker till evening, when it was placed to drain till the next morning. The strained juice was boiled till reduced one- half being skimmed meantime then an equal measure of sugar added. The jelly formed within from fifteen to twenty minutes thereafter. The three trials showed practically no variation. It should perhaps be added that orange jelly had previously been made with the juice and rind of oranges, but the result was darker and less pleasing in flavor. Pineapple Jelly In experimenting with pineapple jelly, a firm pineapple was used, which, although ripe, was not yet entirely yellow. A small quantity was made at a time. One quart each of diced pineapple and citron-melon and one pint of water was brought to a boil and mashed thoroughly, then cooked to a soft pulp in a fireless cooker. This mixture was then strained overnight, and resulted in one pint and a half of juice. This was boiled ten minutes, when an JELLIES AND PRESERVES 301 equal measure of sugar was added. It " jelled " about fifteen minutes later. With a very sweet, too ripe pine- apple, a tablespoonful of lemon juice added for each pint of strained pineapple and citron-melon juice would prob- ably aid the flavor and shorten the process. With both the rhubarb and orange jellies the tests were made without the addition of any other fruit juice or rind, but ordinarily the flavor might be better liked if some grated yellow rind of orange or lemon were used. In the orange-citron-melon jelly, while the flavor is ex- cellent, it is not pronouncedly orange, and as for the rhubarb, many people who do not care for that flavor alone would probably like the jelly with orange or lemon added. Citron-melon may be preserved or pickled separately, like watermelon, and dried or candied for use in cakes, mincemeat, or to serve as a confection. It may also be baked, or used as a sauce, as are apples ; in either of these forms it makes an acceptable pie-filling indeed, from this fact came its old name of " pie-melon." Here are a few recipes for preparing citron-melon alone : Dried Citron for Cakes, Mincemeat, and Confections To dry in large pieces, quarter the melon, peel off outer rind, and remove seeds. For one medium-sized melon, dissolve three lumps of alum, each the size of a large pea, in two quarts of soft water, and place them in the vessel with the melon, which should be covered by the water. Let all come to a boil and cook till the melon can be pierced with a straw. Drain, place in an- other vessel with an equal measure of sugar (no water), and boil for thirty minutes. Drain out on a buttered 302 THE PURE FOOD COOK 'BOOK sieve or plate, and let dry in a cool oven or heater. In about five weeks it should be ready for use. To crystallize citron-melon in smaller pieces, as a con- fection, remove the seeds and the softer pulp near them. Wash, drain, and drop into boiling, slightly salted water. Cook till barely tender it must not get too soft. Drain thoroughly, and place in a syrup made with an equal measure of sugar and water, cooked till moderately thick ; then when the melon is added, cook till the syrup is " ropy," and drain the pieces out onto a buttered sieve or plate, and set them away to dry. Grated lemon or orange-peel or any preferred spice may be added while the melon cooks. Baked Citron-Melon or Same Pare off outer rind and cut into pieces about two by three inches. Remove seeds, wash, and drain. Slice thin one lemon, or add its juice and rind, for each pint of melon used; add a saltspoonful of salt and about a half-pint of sugar the exact amount depending on in- dividual taste. Water is usually not necessary if the sauce is cooked carefully in a double-boiler, although in a fireless cooker or an earthen baking-dish enough water may be added to cover the bottom of the vessel. Cook till the mixture is clear, but not tpo long or the pieces will lose their shape. For sauce, however, the melon may be cooked longer, and mashed or sieved or put through a colander, being then put back on the stove to cook down somewhat, if it is too thin. Preserved Citron-Melon Peel and cut into pieces of shape and size preferred. For each pint of melon allow one-fourth pint of water, JELLIES AND PRESERVES 303 with a saltspoonful of salt. If a rich preserve is wished, allow one pound of sugar and two sliced lemons for each pound of citron. For a more simple preserve, allow seven pounds of sugar to ten of melon and six (or more) lemons.. Cook slowly till clear, and seal when the mix- ture is hot. (Citron is sometimes soaked overnight in rather strong salt water, then drained and soaked in clear water for two hours before draining and presev- Citron-Melon Chips Peel and slice the melon thin, then cut it into strips or half-inch squares and remove the seeds. Weigh, and allow an equal weight of sugar. Mix, and let stand overnight in a bowl, together with three thin-sliced lemons for each quart of chips. In the morning put the melon and the syrup which has formed into a preserving- kettle. Simmer skimming meantime till the syrup is like honey, then seal hot. Ginger-root may be added as well as lemon, if this is liked. Crab Apple Jelly Remove stems and wash fruit. Cut out all imperfect parts and the blossom end; divide into quarters, but do not pare. Put into the kettle with half as much water, by measure, as fruit. Turn into bag and drain, without squeezing. Allow equal measures of juice and sugar. If liked less sweet use only three-fourths sugar. Heat the juice, boiling twenty minutes, then add hot sugar and cook until it jellies on a cold plate. 304 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Rhubarb Jelly Allow one part by measure of tart apples to two parts of rhubarb and just enough water to start cooking. When tender, drain, and proceed as in other jelly. This is clear, tart, and especially good for jelly rolls. Quince Jelly A mixture of from one-third to one -half apples im- proves quince. Rub the quinces with a coarse cloth. For every two quarts of fruit add one of water. Sim- mer until tender, drain without squeezing, and make into jelly in the usual way. Take the parings and cores and simmer in half as much water until tender. Strain and add to the pulp left in the bag. Add three- fourths of a pound of sugar to every pound of pulp, and cook slowly for marmalade. Long cooking will give a beautiful pink color. Barberry Jelly Use one quart of barberries and one cup of thorn apple cooked in water enough to cover. Strain, and use a little more than a cupful of sugar to a pint of the juice. Pink Grape Jelly Put the pulp of any kind of ripe grapes into the kettle, using as little water as possible to start cooking. When the pulp falls to pieces, drain without squeezing. Add lemon juice varying from one to four tablespoonfuls for JELLIES AND PRESERVES 305 three or four glasses of jelly, according to the ripeness of the grapes. Use equal parts of sugar and the juice and, just before it jellies, a tiny speck of vegetable pink color- ing matter. Purple Grape Jelly Make exactly like pink jelly, omitting the artificial coloring matter, but add skins. Do not squeeze the jelly bag Green Grape Mint Jelly Wash the desired amount of unripe green grapes, put them in a preserving kettle, and heat until they can be easily crushed. Add to each pound of grapes one bunch of fresh, well-washed mint bruised in a bowl, and cook until the grapes are soft enough to drain. Turn this into a jelly bag and let it drip, and then measure the amount. Boil the juice and add for each pint one scant pound of hot sugar and boil for twelve minutes, or until a little of it jellies on a cold plate. Color mint green with vegetable coloring liquid and fill glasses. Pears with Ginger Soak three- fourths of a pound of green ginger root in cold water for two days. Drain and then add to one pint of this water, five pounds of sugar, eight pounds of firm, hard unpeeled pears, without cores, and cut into pieces, the ginger root scraped and cut in thin slices and the yellow peel and juice of four lemons. Cook this for 306 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK two hours, or until the fruit is transparent and the syrup thick. Barberry Sauce To one quart of barberries add a pint of water and cook one hour; then add three-fourths of a quart of sugar, and boil fifteen minutes longer. Barberry Preserve Barberries may be preserved in white vinegar and used as a garnish for meats. Pineapple Preserved Without Cooking Peel and cut a pineapple in small cubes and add to each pound one and a fourth pounds of granulated sugar. Turn this into a stone crock, stir it every day for three days, then pack it into cold, sterilized glass jars, and seal. Serve with ice cream or with rolls at breakfast. Grape Conserve A basket of grapes, one and one-half pints of sugar, one and one-half pounds of seeded raisins, half a pound of walnut meats. Remove pulp from grapes, boil five minutes. Put through a colander to remove seeds and boil. Add raisins, sugar, and nut meats chopped fine and boil about thirty minutes until thick. This is de- licious either with meats or plain blancmange. JELLIES AND PRESERVES 307 Plum Conserve Stone and chop finely ripe damson plums. To each quart (after they are chopped) add two cupfuls of chopped and seeded raisins, six sour oranges chopped fine with some of the yellow peel grated, and five cupfuls of sugar. Cook slowly until it is thick and transparent, and turn it into glass jars. Green Gage Jam Wash, but do not peel, six pounds of plums, remove the stones and to each pound of fruit add three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Dissolve the sugar over the fire in a very little water, a third of a cupful to each pound, boil and skim. Add the fruit and cook it quickly until it jellies. This is the English method of making jam. Grape Marmalade Pulp the grapes and cook the pulps until tender. Press through a sieve and add to the skins, allowing three- fourths of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Cook slowly, but do not make it stiff. Plum Butter Take the large red plums that grow wild in some sec- tions of our country and are known as " wild goose " plums. They are delicious when raw, but are bitter and sharp when cooked. This is on account of the seed which " clings." Cook the plums until tender and then put through a sieve. Mix with an equal amount of sweet 308 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK apples and cook until mashed, then add sugar to taste almost equal parts. Many plums are impossible when cooked. If they are put in clear water and allowed to heat slowly to the boiling point, this objectionable fea- ture, which is in the skin, will be eliminated. Throw away that water and proceed to can or preserve. Pear and Peach Jam Take equal quantities of peaches and pears, and to every quart add the juice of one lemon and one orange, and the peel of the orange. (Boil the orange peel in two waters and drain, then cut into thin strips, and add to the fruit.) Allow the fruit to simmer, uncovered, for half an hour, and add a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. If you have ten pounds of fruit you can safely deduct one pound of sugar, and the fruit will keep all right. Boil slowly about ten minutes after sugar is added, stirring often to prevent burning. Pour into jam pots and cover with paraffin. Pear and Cranberry Jam Take two parts of pears and one part of cranberries, run through a chopper and cook as above, adding the peel of an orange to each quart of pulp. Honeyed Gooseberries Remove each seed from green gooseberries with a long needle, so as to keep the fruit in perfect shape. To each pound of fruit add half a pound of white honey. Stir together in a jar and allow it to stand three days, JELLIES AND PRESERVES 309 then turn into a preserving kettle and heat it slowly. Let it simmer until the berries look clear and the juice is thick, which will take about half an hour. Put into small jars and seal. Fruit Preserve (Apples, Pears, and Plums) Peel and cut into small pieces the apples and pears. Skin, stone, and cut up the plums. Use equal propor- tions of each fruit after all are cut up. Use a pound of sugar to each poundi of fruit. Boil until of marmalade consistency. Take from the fire and add a handful of blanched almonds. Seal in glasses. Euchred Plums and Pears Nine pounds of fruit, six pounds of white sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one ounce of cinnamon. Boil the vinegar and spice together ; pour it over the fruit, which has been previously placed in a large crock or bowl, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Pour it back over the fruit in the bowl. Repeat the process for five mornings, the last time boiling the fruit about fifteen minutes. Put in canning jars and cover while hot. This recipe is good also for peaches or prunes. % Sweet Pickled Peaches To seven pounds of peaches allow three and three- quarters pounds of white sugar, one quart of vinegar, two ounces of stick cinnamon. Peel the peaches and insert one or two cloves in each. 1 Boil the sugar and vinegar with several sticks of cinnamon, for five minutes. 310 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK then put in the peaches. When the fruit is tender, re- move it carefully from the syrup and put it in jars. Boil the syrup, reducing it nearly half, and pour it over the peaches in the jars. Spiced Peaches For six pounds of fruit use three pounds of granu- lated sugar and one pint of vinegar. Into each peach insert two cloves. Put into the sugar and vinegar one ounce of stick cinnamon (which should be in a cheese- cloth bag), and boil. When the mixture is boiling hot place the fruit in it and cook it until it is tender. Put it into jars and seal at once. Rhubarb Relish (for meat course) Cut into small pieces one cup of pie-plant or rhubarb. Add one-half cupful of water, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar, the pulp and sliced rind of a lemon and an orange, one-half package each of seeded raisins and cur- rants. Cook all over a slow fire. Seal in glasses when thick. MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 311 3 i2 MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES MORE WAYS OF MAKING JELLIES 313 314 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES 315 316 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PRESERVES JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES N the cooking of vegetables nutritive value and digestibility need not be sacrificed when a method is used which secures the best flavor and a palatable result. First one should understand that the framework of vegetables, known as cellulose, and the starch which most contain, are almost impossible of digestion in their raw state. These must be softened and changed by cooking, or the vegetable remains incapable of nourishment. Take an unripe apple. We have been warned against them ever since we made our first furtive trial upon for- bidden fruit. The green apple is hard and woody be- cause of its cellulose framework. Then nature sets to work, and aided by the heat of the sun, forms the acids in the fruit, and the hard, cellulose framework in part breaks down and dissolves. The same process takes place when cabbage is changed into sauerkraut. In general, vegetables need long, slow cooking, and the drier, the more compact they are, the longer cooking and more moisture they need. Boiled Asparagus All green vegetables, roots, and tubers should be crisp and firm and thoroughly clean when put on to cook. 317 3i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK With asparagus, cut off the woody part and wash well. If this is to be cooked in the casserole, lay it in with heads all in one direction, and half cover with boiling water. Cover the casserole and place in an oven suffi- ciently hot so the water will simmer. Cook until the asparagus is tender, a matter of from twenty to forty minutes, depending upon the tenderness and freshness of the vegetable. Serve on toast with or without a thin cream sauce; or the juice in which the asparagus has been cooked may be cooked down, a little cream added, seasoned, and poured over the asparagus. The water should not be thrown away, for valuable salts and much flavor are held in it, and it may be used for soup. The asparagus may be cut into short pieces if desired.. One bunch will serve four. Spinach Spinach has comparatively little food value, but it is valuable in other ways. It is a most abused vegetable in cooking. It is not difficult, but takes much time and water and patience to prepare, for every leaf must be scrupulously clean if it is to be eaten with delight. To clean the spinach, cut off the roots, break each leaf apart, and drop them into a large pan of cold water. Rinse and put in another pan, letting fresh water run over them. Continue doing this until there is not a trace of sand or dirt in the pan. Drain and put the spinach in a large kettle, adding for a half-peck of spinach about half a cupful of water. Cover carefully and boil ten minutes. Pour into a colander to drain. Pour cold water over it and let it thoroughly drain. Chop fine and reheat in milk, cream, or butter, and serve. Spinach holds enough water for ten minutes of cooking. JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 319 and the half-cupful is added merely for precaution's sake. The spinach should be pressed down, and if pos- sible, turned over once during the cooking. When cooked in this way the vegetable will retain its salts and its flavor and be much more delicately palatable than when boiled in a quantity of water for a longer time. One-half peck will serve four. Peas Peas should be shelled and the shells put in a sauce- pan and covered with boiling water. Cook for thirty min- utes, drain and put the shelled peas into this water; add a very little sugar, if liked, put in the casserole, and cook, simmering slowly until the peas are tender. It is prac- tically impossible to give the time of cooking, so much depends upon the freshness and maturity of the peas. From twenty to thirty minutes, or in the oven from thirty to forty, should suffice. They must not be over- done. Two quarts will serve four. String Beans String beans should be blanched. Free them from strings, cut up, and soak in cold water, for a longer or shorter time. If they are fresh and crisp, twenty minutes will do; if wilted, a few hours are needed. Drain, put them into rapidly boiling, salted water, and boil rapidly, cover off, for ten minutes. Drain, let cold water run over them, then put them in the casserole with one-half cupful of boiling water and one rounding tablespoonful of butter for each quart of beans. Cover and cook for twenty or twenty-five minutes in a medium hot oven. Do not overcook. Season and serve. One quart will serve four. 320 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Cauliflower, cabbage, and brussels sprouts must all be soaked for thirty minutes in cold water to which salt has been added in order to free them from any insects hidden in the leaves. Break the cauliflower into flow- erets and cut the cabbage in pieces if the casserole is to be used. Half cover ^ with water and cook in the oven, the cabbage for an hour or more, depending upon its age, the cauliflower from thirty to forty minutes. When the cabbage is nearly done, if more than a little water remains, pour it off until about one-half cup- ful is left. Add one rounding tablespoonful of butter or bacon fat, and cook uncovered for the remainder of the time. The cauliflower should be cooked until done, drained, and served with a cream or hollandaise sauce. Brussels sprouts should be prepared for cooking by removing any outside leaves after soaking, and putting in the casserole with, for a quart of sprouts, one cupful of stock and one rounding tablespoonful of butter. Cook until tender. Remove cover of the casserole, sea- son with salt and pepper, add more butter if necessary, and serve without sauce. One quart will serve six. There is but one way of finding out when vegetables are done, and that is to try them. Salt should be added when the cooking is nearly or all done, and the time for cooking in the casserole should be from ten to forty minutes more than cooking on the stove. They do not need careful watching while cooking in this way, and will be found to be very delicious. Baked Lentils Wash a quart of lentils and put them into a sauce- pan with a quart of cold water; add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, two small onions, each stuck with two JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 321 cloves, two or three red peppers, a teaspoonful of salt, and a bunch of garden herbs, including plenty of parsley and a small sprig of mint. Place in the pan, well covered, over a moderate fire until the water has been absorbed and the lentils are soft, but not pulpy. This should not take more than half an hour. Then take out the herbs, onions, and cloves, put the lentils into a buttered earthen- ware dish, cover the top with a light layer of browned bread crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, dot it over with tiny pieces of butter, and bake it in a quick oven just long enough to give it a rich brown crispness. Serve with a good brown gravy. Pork or beef can be boiled with the lentils if the flavor of meat is desired. If German lentils are used in carrying out this recipe, they should be soaked at least twenty-four hours, and then boiled in the water in which they were soaked to secure the best results. Lentil and Mushroom Cutlets Prepare a quart of lentils as in the recipe for baked lentils. Add to them half a pound of fresh mushrooms, previously cooked in their own liquor, and lightly fla- vored with mace. Set aside the liquor for gravy and add to the lentils and mushrooms two tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, two cupfuls of fine browned bread crumbs, a dessertspoonful of meat extract, or more if required to take up the moisture of the browned bread crumbs, a little red pepper, and celery salt. Add three unbeaten eggs, one at a time, until the mixture is well bound together. Shape, brush with egg, coat with browned bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat, as you would chicken cutlets. With the cutlets serve a well-seasoned brown gravy, using mush- 322 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK room liquor as foundation and adding at the last mo- ment another small spoonful of the red currant jelly. One-half this recipe will serve eight. Baked Lentils and Cheese Prepare the lentils as for baked lentils, but sprinkle three layers of grated cheese into the baking dish between layers of lentils. On the top put thick slices of fine ripe tomatoes, arranged thickly, so as to cover the lentils. Over the tomatoes sprinkle finely chopped parsley and in the center of each slice of tomato put a tiny piece of butter. Bake quickly and serve hot with or without gravy. Red Kidney Beans with Cheese in Chafing Dish Put two tablespoon fuls of butter in the blazer, add one can of red kidney beans, one small green pepper minced finely, and a little onion or minced chives if liked. Cook until the peppers are tender. Add one and one-half cupfuls of grated cheese, and when melted serve on toast. Mint-glazed Carrots Wash and scrape three carrots and cut in one-fourth inch slices. Parboil for ten or fifteen minutes, drain, put into a saucepan with one-third cupful each of sugar and butter, and one tablespoonful of chopped mint leaves. Cook very slowly until glazed and perfectly tender. Serve hot, and as a border surrounding a mound of green peas. JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 323 Mashed Carrots Scrape the carrots, wash them, and lay them in cold water for half an hour. Cook until tender in boiling water ; then drain and mash with butter as desired, season with pepper and salt, put in a vegetable dish, garnish with parsley, and serve very hot. Corn Pudding Grate twelve ears of sweet corn. Add four table- spoonfuls of melted butter and one teaspoonful of salt. Fold in the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten sep- arately. Bake this in a well-buttered casserole dish, in a quick oven, for forty-five minutes. Onions and Cheese Wash and peel four large onions, and cut them into slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Butter a baking-dish and lay the slices in it, placing them close together. Sprinkle the onions with salt and pepper, and bake half an hour, or until the onions are tender, then cover each slice thickly with grated cheese, put in the oven again and serve when cheese is melted and browned. Serve in the baking-dish or lift out on to a hot platter. Individual casseroles can be used to advantage when preparing onions in this way. Roast Nut and Barley Loaf Make a brown sauce with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one-half of a cupful of browned flour, and use water 324 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK or vegetable stock for thinning; chop one large onion fine, and fry it in one tablespoonful of oil or butter, then mix the onion and the sauce with two cupfuls of cold boiled pearl barley, one cupful of finely ground roasted peanuts, one cupful of fine bread crumbs, one teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper. With the hands, mold into a loaf, place in a roasting pan which has been well buttered and let cook in the oven for ten minutes; then add one tablespoonful of butter and one cupful of hot water, and baste every five minutes for half an hour. Make brown sauce in the same pan and serve with caper sauce. Baked Celery with Cheese Wash celery, cut in one-inch pieces, and soak in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and reserve stock. With it make a sauce, using four tablespoonfuls of butter and four tablespoonfuls of flour. Add the drained celery, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful of grated cheese. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until the crumbs are delicately browned. Baked Hominy Mash enough left-over hominy to fill an ordinary bak- ing-dish after all the lumps are eliminated. Add two eggs, one teaspoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, with one teaspoonful of baking powder, salt, pep- per, and about half a cupful of milk, to make a stiff batter. Put all this in a dish and bake three-quarters of an hour. JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 325 Italian Polenta Make a desired quantity of Indian meal mush, stirring it with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour, and when quite thick add a small piece of butter, a little grated Parmesan cheese, and an egg beaten until light. Beat for two or three minutes, then pour into bread tins, moistened with cold water, and set away to cool. When it is cold, cut into one-half inch slices, and put in layers in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with grated cheese, and add a little butter to each layer. Bake in a slow oven until the melted cheese has formed a crisp brown coating over the polenta. Make a thick sauce of concentrated tomatoes and pour over while very hot, and immediately before serving. Macaroni Savory in Chafing Dish Boil and blanch macaroni and drain one quart of it. In the meantime mince two small green peppers and two small onions. When ready to serve, cook the peppers and onions in half a cupful of olive oil in the blazer for fifteen minutes, tossing them constantly. Add one cup- ful of tomatoes and half a cupful of grated cheese. When the cheese is melted, dust with salt, and serve with the macaroni in ramekins. Spaghetti Break one-quarter of a pound of Italian spaghetti into pieces one inch long and sprinkle into plenty of boiling water. Add two rounded tablespoonfuls of butter and a small onion sliced thin. Cook it slowly for one hour. 326 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The spaghetti should then be well done and the water boiled down to a creamy liquid. Ten minutes before serving add a cupful of finely grated cheese and three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. If this is not a sufficient amount of the sauce, add enough to flavor the spaghetti to taste. Serve the spaghetti with a little grated cheese over the top and garnish with finely chopped parsley. Mushrooms Baked under Glass Pare the mushrooms and cut off the stems. Put thin slices of toast, browned only on the underside, on the nappies which come with the bells. Saute the mush- rooms very delicately in butter and place them on the toast. Cover with the bells and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. Take from the oven, add one tablespoonful of hot cream, a little salt and pepper to each nappy, re-cover with bells, and serve. Some of the recipes say to saute the mushrooms in the butter, add the cream, and simmer. Then put on the toast and simply heat in the oven. When this method is used the greatest care has to be employed not to let the cream cook. The first method insures better results in cooking the mushrooms without burning and sticking, and produces, therefore, a more delicate flavor. French Peas, Normandy Style Cut two thin slices of bacon into small dice, and place in a saute pan with four small onions, sliced. Cook until the onions begin to brown; add the liquor from one can of small peas, and cook until the onions are thoroughly tender. Add the peas, salt, and pepper to taste, and simmer for twenty minutes. If necessary to JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 327 thicken, take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of one egg at once, and stir until the mixture thickens. There should be enough heat to 'cook the egg without keeping it over the fire. There is danger in too much cooking, for fear the egg yolk will cook hard, and there- fore separate. Serve at once. Summer Squash Slice a good-sized onion into a tablespoonful of melted gutter or olive oil. When slightly browned, add a sum- mer squash cut into small dice. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until squash is tender. Boiled Jerusalem Artichokes Put one pound of artichokes into cold water. Scrape the artichokes with small knife until they are white all over, then put them in a pot of boiling water. Cook them vigorously for a good half-hour, then strain the water off and serve very hot with plenty of butter, pepper, and a little salt. Fried Celery Make a batter with two cupfuls of flour and two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, well sifted together, one and a half cupfuls of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup- ful of melted butter, and a speck of salt. Cut as many stalks of celery as desired in pieces three or four inches in length, and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and let dry on a platter; dip them into the batter until well coated and fry in hot fat until brown. Serve on a flat dish with a border of celery leaves. 328 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Smothered Tomatoes Cut six small tomatoes in halves crosswise. Arrange them in a baking pan, with the skin side down. Pour over them three tablespoonfuls of melted butter and some finely minced parsley. Season with pepper and salt and cover over with another pan and cook until they are soft. Tomato Curry Cook one tablespoonful of minced celery, one of mincejl green pepper, and one teaspoonful of minced onion in one tablespoonful of butter, lay in four large slices of tomato which have been rolled in flour and cornmeal mixed, and cook them on both sides without breaking them. Have toast covered with finely minced chicken or lamb, and lay a slice of tomato on each. Add to the pan one teaspoonful each of corn starch and curry powder dis- solved in one-half cupful of cream. When boiling pour over the tomatoes. The meat may be omitted. Tomatoes a la Tom Cook slowly three slices of bacon diced. Remove the veins and seeds from four green peppers and cut in small pieces. Peel four medium-sized onions and cut in small pieces. Add the peppers and onions to the bacon and cook until a nice brown. Remove to a covered dish to keep hot. Slice six large ripe tomatoes and dip each in flour in which salt and pepper has been dusted. Fry in half butter and half lard. Turn them carefully and brown on both sides. Remove to a platter and pour the bacon, peppers, and onions over them. Pour over all a cream sauce made of a tablespoonful of flour rubbed JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 329 smooth in a tablespoonful of butter in the same frying- pan. Add one cupful of milk and cook until thick. Tomato Rabbit Cook one tablespoonful of chopped onion in one table- spoonful of butter five minutes. Add one cupful of to- matoes, cook two minutes, and strain. In a saucepan, or the blazer of the chafing dish, melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and three- fourths of a cupful of thin cream. Cook until thickened, then add two cupfuls of cheese cut in dice or thinly shaved, the tomato, and one-half teaspoon ful each of mustard and salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika. Stir until cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth. Add two slightly beaten eggs, cook one minute, and serve on toast or heated crackers. Rice with Tomato and Cheese Pick over and wash half a cupful of rice. Place in the upper part of a double boiler with three cupfuls of boiling water, and boil five minutes. Add one cupful of tomato puree, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one tea- spoonful each of chopped onion and green pepper, cooked until soft in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook in the double boiler, without stirring, until the rice is soft, then add half a cupful of grated cheese. Stir with a fork and .serve as soon as the cheese is melted. Cabbage Hors d'Oeuvre Two cupfuls of raw cabbage, two tablespoonfuls of chives, one fresh red pepper, and a few olives. Chop all separately and cover with a French dressing. 330 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Celery Croquettes Cut the outer green stalks of a bunch of celery into small pieces and boil in slightly salted water until very tender ; drain and mash to a paste, adding a small cupful of grated bread crumbs, a high seasoning of salt and pep- per, the yolk of one hard-cooked egg, blended with a quarter of a teaspoonful of French mustard, one table- spoonful of cream sauce, and the beaten yolk of one egg ; mix the ingredients thoroughly and, with floured hands, form into small croquettes, frying in deep fat (any vegetable oil) to a golden brown; serve on a folded napkin, inserting in the top of each a sprig of parsley, attached to a small toothpick. Black Bean Soup Soak a quart of the beans all night. In the morning turn off the water and cover them with boiling water for half an hour; drain again and add two cjuarts of boiling water, slightly salted. Boil slowly until the beans are broken to pieces. Rub through a sieve back into the pot with the water in which they were boiled, and pour in upon the puree a quart of good stock. Simmer for half an hour; season with onion juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Thicken with a roux of browned .flour rubbed to a paste with butter, using a tablespoonful of each to a pint, then cook for a minute, boil up once, and it is ready to serve. Have ready diced or fried bread to put upon the surface when it goes into the tureen or into plates. Some prefer sliced lemon, peeled, and laid upon the top of the soup, to the fried bread. Celery Croquettes. Recipe given on Page jjo. Shad Roe Croquettes. Recipe given on Page 165. Lentils, Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. A Salad Dressing may be added if liked. Directions for Cooking the Lentils on Page 320. Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower. Recipe given on Page 332. JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 331 Belgian Corn Fritters To one can of corn add the beaten yolks of two eggs and one cupful of flour which has been sifted with one teaspoonful of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one-third teaspoonful of paprika. Beat well together, then add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Cook in a frying pan, preferably in bacon fat, dropping a large tablespoonful in the pan. Fry golden brown on each side and serve garnished with strips of bacon. Mint Peas Cook the peas in the regular way, but add one or two mint sprigs while cooking. This adds a delicate flavor of mint. Mock Beef a la Mode Beef a la mode is a substantial dish. Cut a Hubbard squash into thick slices, remove the outer skin and the pithy inside portion which contains the seeds. Butter a deep stone baking-dish. Arrange a layer of the squash; dust with salt and pepper ; add a thinly sliced onion and a layer of tender carrots, thinly sliced, with a thin cover- ing of chopped parsley. Repeat with alternate layers until the dish is full, and then fill up with beef-stock. Cover and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Make a thick brown gravy with some more stock; add a table- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce or mushroom-ketchup; arrange squash cutlets and other vegetables on a heated 332 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK dish, and pour the gravy over it. Garnish with small yel- low turnips which have been boiled, and fried hominy. Serve with potatoes and tender cabbage. Remember, a large Hubbard squash must be used for this dish. When properly cooked you can hardly detect that no meat has been used. Red Cabbage Wash a large head, quarter, shred fine, wash again, and drain. Put a lump of drippings in a deep skillet, test with shredded onion; when the onion browns put in the cabbage, stir well, add boiling water to cover, and cook an hour. Then add three large apples, sliced thin, and a small pinch of salt; let boil ten minutes, then stir in a level tablespoonful of flour wet smooth in three spoon- fuls of vinegar. Boil up, and serve hot. A variant, much approved in some kitchens, is to slice sweet potatoes in- stead of apples. Finish the same. Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower Cut a thin slice from the stem end of large green peppers and remove seeds. Parboil ten minutes and fill with creamed cauliflower. Sprinkle tops with buttered crumbs and bake until skins are tender, basting occa- sionally with butter and water. Okra Test with the thumb-nail. Unless the nail cuts it freely the pods are too tough. But do not throw away JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 333 the tough ones. Shell the seed from them and either dry to use in soups, or to cook alone, when they should be served with butter, vinegar, and salt. Cut stems off the pods, cook whole those half-grown or under, but cut those more mature into half-inch slices. Boil tender, in water very slightly salted. When a fork pierces them readily they are cooked enough. Drain them well, lay in a deep pan or hot dish, dress liberally with butter, pepper, salt, and vinegar, and set for five minutes in a hot oven. They should be served very hot. Mock Pork Mock pork requires squash, but the white, summer variety. Select a nicely shaped, large squash. Be sure not to get one that looks at all yellow, for if you do it will have to be peeled, which is undesirable, as peeled squash is apt to fall to pieces in the cooking. Cut a circle with a sharp knife all around the squash, and re- move, to enable you to scoop out the seeds ; then fill with the following dressing : One pint of stale bread crumbs ; one onion chopped fine ; one-half teaspoonful of powdered sage ; a teaspoonful of dried mustard ; two ounces of butter cut into small pieces; half a teaspoonful of salt and pepper; mix thoroughly; moisten with two beaten eggs. After the squash is filled, replace the piece that was cut out, put into a baking pan, and cook for two hours. Use bacon or pork drippings to baste with. To make the gravy which should accompany it, fry a sliced onion golden brown in butter; add pepper a'nd salt to taste, and half a pint of milk; stir constantly, cook until golden brown, and the consistency of thick cream. Put the baked squash on a hot platter; pile up a wall of 334 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK apple sauce around it ; mashed turnips and new potatoes are the nicest vegetables to serve with it. Escallop of Green Corn Eight small or six large ears of tender corn, one quart of ripe tomatoes, a half-pint of mild onions, heaping tablespoonful butter, teaspoonful sugar, half-teaspoonful salt, dust of black pepper or one large green pepper shredded fine. Peel tomatoes, cut in thick slices, slice onions thin, blanch, and drain, cut corn from cob, saving all the milk, put a layer over the bottom of an earthen dish, cover with sliced tomatoes and onions, then sprinkle with salt and sugar, and dot with bits of butter and shreds of pepper. Repeat till dish is full, putting plenty of butter on top, pour over the milk from the corn, and bake in a very hot oven twenty-five to thirty minutes. Serve hot or cold. If served cold, with a sharp French dressing or a boiled vinegar dressing, it makes a satis- fying salad. Summer Hot Pot Select medium-sized tomatoes which are just ripe, but nothing more, for they must be quite solid. Dip in scald- ing water, to loosen their skins : peel, and cut into quar- ters or halves, according to size. Put a layer at the bottom of a casserole ; then a layer of onions. They should not be any larger than marbles. Next a layer of potatoes, cut into slices; scatter a little chopped parsley with salt and pepper ; repeat with more tomatoes and the different ingredients until you have enough for your family. Barely cover with meat stock, bring to the boil, JUST HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES 335 then draw back where it will slowly simmer for an hour or bake in an oven. We like either cauliflower and peas, or asparagus and spinach with it. Steamed Squash in Shell Carefully cut the top from a squash preferably oval in shape, though the round ones may be used. Steam it until tender. Scrape out the pulp and pass it through a vegetable sieve or mash it and beat until very smooth. Make a cream sauce : melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when blended, one cupful of milk. Season highly with salt and pepper, and cook until thickened, stirring to prevent lumps. Beat into the squash pulp, season again if not sufficient, and pack the mixture into the shell. "Cover with buttered crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. Brown in a hot oven, and serve from the shell. Stuffed Eggplant Cut in halves without peeling, cook in boiling salted water fifteen minutes. Remove pulp, chop, and mix with one cupful of stale bread crumbs. Season with salt, pep- per, butter, and onion juice. Cook for five minutes, cool, add one beaten egg, and fill the eggplant halves. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake twenty-five minutes. Hulled Corn One quart of corn, one heaping tablespoonful of sale- ratus put into a kettle of water on the stove. Keep the corn covered with two or three inches of water, and boil 336 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK until ,you can take a kernel in your fingers and slip off the hull. Remove from stove and wash in three or four waters; then boil until tender. Corn Cakes to Serve with Meat One cupful of canned corn, half a teaspoonful of salt, one cupful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, three- fourths of a cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of baking powder, and two well-beaten eggs. To the corn add milk, sugar, and eggs well beaten. Mix and sift salt, flour, and baking powder. Combine mixtures, drop by spoon- fuls into hot buttered muffin-ring set in a buttered baking- pan, and bake in a moderate oven until firm. A delicious accompaniment to roast beef. MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 337 338 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 339 340 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES 341 342 MORE WAYS OF COOKING VEGETABLES JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES LMOST every one who has made brine pickles has had the maddening experience of having them turn soft. In factories this has caused much loss of money in Michigan, for ex- ample, the loss from this cause is estimated at an average of about $1,000 a year for each factory ; in homes it has caused much loss of labor and temper, for what is true of the factory's tank in regard to pickle softening is just as true of the housewife's two-gallon crock. The difference is that whereas the factory has been able to carry on ex- pensive investigations into the cause of pickle spoilage, the housewife could only hope for better luck next year. Now, however, the time has come when the housewife can, if she will, make use of the factory's knowledge. Investigations of especially noteworthy thoroughness have been made by Dr. Otto Rahn, who is in charge of the canners' fund of the University of Illinois. His work occupied a period of six months; but as six calendar months mean three pickle years practically every char- acteristic of the conditions likely to be met with in brine pickling is covered thereby. Dr. Rahn, setting out to understand the normal brine pickle from the very begin- ning, first ascertained just what happens to a cucumber to change it into a pickle. In this connection, he discovered one very interesting fact : it is not the salt in the brine that causes the pickle to keep. Salt, and that in good measure, is absolutely necessary to pickle keeping, but 343 344 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK salt alone is not enough. The essential factor in keeping brine pickles is the acid, probably lactic acid, which forms through the action of bacteria. Many manufacturers do not know that their brine contains acid, yet the instant it does not contain it the pickle is on the way to destruction. There are no bacteria in a healthy cucumber, nor are there any in strong brine ; then how do they get into the pickle-tank? They ride in in thousands on the outside of the cucumber, especially if a little soil adheres. Im- mersion in strong brine finishes the life story of most of them, but a few regard it as a chance to prove themselves. And from within the cucumber comes their food. The cucumbers shrink in the brine, giving off water, and with it sugar, and other traces of bacterial food. Sugar is especially acceptable to the busy bacteria, and the kinds that can tolerate the salt immediately begin to grow and decompose the sugar. Acid and gas follow upon this decomposition. The gas escapes and makes the familiar froth, while the acid reveals its presence by its action upon the color of the pickles, turning their grass-green- ness to the olive-green everywhere recognized as the cor- rect tint for pickles. When the frothing ceases, the acid becomes fairly strong, and as it is a rather capable dis- infectant, it will kill most of the bacteria in the brine. But the trouble is, that there is more than just this acid formed in the brine. The brine and the cucumbers in combination possess not alone the power of establishing their own preservation, but also the power of bringing about their own destruction. Besides the bacteria, a skum-yeast is always present in the brine. This skum- yeast destroys the lactic acid, and leaves the pickles open to destruction. Were the growth of this skum-yeast pre- vented so that the acid would remain in the brine, pickles undoubtedly could be kept for centuries. JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 345 But the encouraging fact brought by the investigations is that the prevention of skum-yeast is not impossible or even excessively difficult. Skimming it off is an ineffi- cient and unsatisfactory method of getting rid of it, be- cause it always grows in again ; but it cannot tolerate sunlight, and it must have air. The old-fashioned out- door tanks were not bothered much with skum-yeast; trouble started when the roof was built. As for the necessity of air to skum-yeast, that is attested by the very fact that it grows as a skum. On the other hand, the bacterium which forms the acid in the brine has just the opposite characteristic it avoids the air. Sunlight, too, would kill it, but it grows at the bottom of the tank, or jar, where there is no light. So it becomes apparent that whatever shuts the air from brine pickles encourages the presence of acid, and also discourages the skum-yeast. Dr. Rahn's experiments proved this point very clearly. He experimented with pickles in glass jars and also in barrels, with precisely similar results. In the case of the barrels, six barrels of cucumbers were brined in the usual way ; then three of them were kept open, while the other three were covered with about two inches of cottonseed oil, after the barrels were headed up, air-tight, with but one small hole for the gas to escape. All six barrels fermented normally, but at the end of twenty-two months the pickles in the three open barrels were so soft that they could not be taken out without falling to pieces, while those in the closed barrels were in first-class condition and of excellent flavor. The brine of the open barrels showed no trace of acid, in fact, it was slightly alkaline, while the brine under oil had not changed its acidity in twenty-one months. Do not, however, suppose from this that cottonseed-oil is the essential of preservation. What is tq be recommended is the exclusion of air. 346 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Indeed, cottonseed-oil cannot be used by manufacturers or housewives, because it would make the pickles oily, and eventually rancid. There is, however, paraffin, that noble ally of the jelly-jar. This gave complete satisfac- tion when tried on a two-gallon jar of pickles; and even in factories its use would not be too expensive, as the paraffin could be remelted and used year after year. But of course, in case of its use, care must be taken not to ppur it on until the fermentation has ceased, as otherwise the gases arising from the brine would tear it to pieces and make a remelting necessary. But the great fact is that exclusion of air will result in the retention of the acid and the prevention of the formation of the skum- yeast which destroys the acid, thus causing the pickles to keep indefinitely. There is also an earlier stage in the life history of a pickle, when certain bacteria can get in their work of destruction, and should consequently be guarded against. This is the period before normal fermentation begins. In Dr. Rahn's opinion, the spoilage that may then occur is due to the action of one of the so-called potato bac- teria. These stand salt well, and if they happen to be present in fairly large numbers, they can do great dam- age, for they grow very fast. Fighting these bacteria, however, is not difficult. Putting in brine from a fer- menting tank or jar, or even a little vinegar, will speedily cause their career to cease. Where this is not possible, attention to temperature and whatever induces rapid fer- mentation will put them out of the ranks of trouble- makers. . Also, pickles srhould be compelled to stay under brine instead of being allowed to poke out where the potato bacteria can catch them. In short, the great secret of successful pickle-making lies in bringing about acid fermentation quickly, .and JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 347 after this is over, in preserving the acidity of the brine. Since some bacteria are necessary for the keeping of pickles, it is not advisable to rid the outside of the cucum- bers of bacteria before putting them into brine, for then the good would perish with the evil bacteria. Neither is it necessary to wash the cucumbers, since all brine pickles are washed anyway before being eaten. In the case of dill pickles, of course, this does not apply. They are eaten as they come from the tank, and therefore the cucumbers used in making them should be washed be- fore pickling. It has been recommended by a German bacteriologist that a little whey from sour milk be put into the pickle-barrel to hasten the fermentation. But this practice has been tried with dill pickles only brine pickles being unknown in Germany. Tiny Cucumbers or Gherkin Pickles Select one hundred very small prickly cucumbers or gherkins, of uniform size, and cover them with cold water. In an hour drain and turn them into a large crock. Add one cupful of salt to sufficient boiling water to cover the cucumbers and pour this over them. Cover the crock closely and let it stand for two days. After this, drain, rejecting those that may be imperfect or soft, and pack them in a clean crock. Heat one quart of cider vinegar with half a cupful of brown sugar until it boils, skim, and add half a cupful of fresh horseradish slivers, one red pepper, and two small shredded green peppers, half a cupful of nasturtium seeds, half an ounce of celery seed, a quarter of an ounce of stick cinnamon, two ounces of white and brown mustard seed, 348 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK one teaspoonful of alum broken into small bits, half of a small onion sliced, one dozen cloves, and a small blade of mace. When this is boiling, strain and pour it into the crock, stirring the cucumbers from the bottom. Cover closely and let it stand for a week, then reheat the liquid, pack the pickles in glass jars, fill with hot vinegar, and seal the jars ; or replace the pickles in crocks and cover closely. They will be ready for use in six weeks. If the flavor of Tarragon vinegar is preferred, use half Tarragon and half cider vinegar. East Indian Pickles Slice two quarts of green tomatoes, six small onions, five medium-sized green cucumbers, and a small head of red cabbage. Place them in a crock in separate layers with a sprinkling of salt between each layer. After twenty- four hours cover with the following boiling mixture (which should be drained off and reheated each day for three days) : Three pints of cider vinegar, a fourth of a pound of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery seed, two small green peppers, shredded, one and a half pounds of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of black pepper, and one-fourth of a cupful of turmeric. On the third morning add two cupfuls of Tarragon vinegar, one tablespoonful of mustard, half a cupful of salad oil, and one teaspoonful of curry powder. Seal in glass jars and use after six weeks. Green Tomatoes and Pepper Relish Chop finely one peck of green tomatoes, three large onions, six green peppers with the seeds removed, boil JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 349 them three minutes in two quarts of very weak vinegar, drain, and turn into glass jars. Scald three quarts of vinegar with two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of white mustard seed, one tablespoonful each of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, three tablespoonfuls of salt, and one teaspoonful of celery seed. When this is boiling, pour it over the chopped ingredients and seal the jars. Green Tomato Sweet Pickles Slice thinly one peck of green tomatoes and cover them with one gallon of water mixed with one cupful of salt. The next day drain this thoroughly. Heat two quarts of vinegar with three cupfuls of brown sugar and two table- spoonfuls of mixed spices in a bag. With a skimmer plunge a few of the tomatoes at a time into this boiling vinegar. Cook for a few moments, and put them immedi- ately into hot glass jars. Fill them with the boiling liquid and seal. Stuffed Green Peppers (or Mangoes) Cut the tops from the peppers (or mangoes), remove the seeds, and cover both the tops and the peppers with a brine strong enough to hold up an egg, then leave them for three or four days. Drain and stuff them with shaved cabbage seasoned with mustard seed, celery seed, chopped onion, grated horseradish, a suspicion of mace, and a little brown sugar, all moistened with salad oil. Tie on the tops, pack in a crock, and pour over them boiling Tar- ragon vinegar. Seal, and do not use them before two months have elapsed. 350 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Mixed Mustard Pickle Slice one quart of onions, one quart of small green to- matoes, and one large peeled cucumber. Break one head of cauliflower into small pieces, and cut one quart of green or wax beans into half-inch lengths. Cover each of these with salt and water, also one quart of button onions, one quart of tiny cucumbers, and two red peppers and two green peppers shredded. The next morning boil them until they are tender, drain them and toss them together. Boil one quart of vinegar with one cupful of sugar mixed with a third of a cupful of flour and a fourth of a pound of mustard. When this is thick, add one teaspoonful of celery seed, half a cupful of butter, and one tablespoonful of turmeric. Add this to the other ingredients, and turn all into glass jars, and seal. Tomato Catsup (Uncooked) Chop finely half a peck of ripe tomatoes, three red and three green peppers (without seeds), four celery stalks, and two onions ; add one cupful of grated horse- radish in one cupful of Tarragon vinegar, half a cupful of black and white mustard seed, one cupful of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, three tablespoon- fuls of salt, and one pint of cider vinegar. Mix this well and put into jars or bottles and seal. Pepper Hash Chop finely twelve green peppers, twelve sweet red peppers, and twelve very small onions; add three table- spoonfuls of salt, and let it simmer for ten minutes ; then JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 351 drain and add one quart of vinegar and one cupful of brown sugar. Let it come to a boil, and then turn it into jars. Use this for sandwiches. Cucumber Catsup (Uncooked) Peel and chop six green cucumbers (table size), add one green pepper, and two small onions minced. Drain this and add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and turn it into glass jars. Use this for sandwiches. Chili Sauce Chop four quarts of ripe tomatoes, four medium-sized onions, and one red pepper; add two cupfuls of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. Boil this one hour and turn it into jars and seal. Use with salad dressing and as a relish for cold meats. Ripe Tomato Sweet Pickle Peel and weigh tomatoes of uniform size, taking care that they are not overripe. Lay them carefully in a stone crock, and cover them with cold vinegar. The next day take up the tomatoes carefully in a skimmer, and lay them on a plate and place the plate in the bottom of a kettle. To half of the vinegar add sugar weighing half the weight of the tomatoes, heat this and add a bag of whole spices ; pour this gently over the tomatoes, and place it over a low fire to keep very hot (not boiling) for four hours. Pack these in the crock and cover. Serve with meat. 352 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Yellow Egg Tomato Sweets In the morning, scald quickly, and peel six pounds of tomatoes. Cover them with one quart of water mixed with one pint of vinegar and one tablespoonful of salt, and let it stand over night. Drain the tomatoes and to each pound use three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Pack in layers and let stand until morning. Pour off the syrup and add small, thin slices of lemon, a few pieces of ginger root, four drops of oil of cinnamon, and two drops of oil of cloves. Boil this syrup until it is thick, add the tomatoes and cook until they are transparent. Pack them into small jars, and fill with the thick syrup. Serve them with chicken or meats. Spiced Currants For every five pounds of currants take two quarts of water and one pint of vinegar, one tablespoonful ground cinnamon, and four pounds of sugar; two teaspoonfuls ground cloves; one teaspoonful each of ground allspice and mace. Boil the currants with the sugar. When quite thick, add the vinegar and spices and boil, stirring well for fifteen or twenty minutes more. Store as jelly. Preserved Watermelon Rind Peel the rind from one-half of a melon, rejecting all of the soft pink part. Chop it finely or cut it in a meat grinder. Place it over night in a bowl with a sprinkling of salt over each layer of chopped rind. In the morning draw off all the liquid and freshen it in cold water, by washing it two or three times. Place it on the fire in the preserving kettle with one cupful of sugar to every JUST HOW TO MAKE PICKLES 353 cupful of rind, and let it boil for two or three hours. Add the grated peel of three lemons or the peel cut in thin bits and the pulp cut into small pieces. Reject the seeds. Seal in small jars, not jelly glasses. Grape Conserve Remove the pulp of five pounds of grapes. Cook it and take out the seeds. Chop two pounds of raisins and half a pound of English walnut meats. Add the grated rind and juice of three oranges and four pounds of granu- lated sugar. Cook all together until i f is quite thick. Beet Chowder To two cupfuls of finely chopped beets (boiled) add two cupfuls of chopped cabbage and one cupful of horse- radish. Heat it and pour over the mixture the follow- ing: Two cupfuls of vinegar, one pound of sugar, one tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of mustard. This will keep indefinitely if put in glass jars. 354 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES 355 356 MORE WAYS OF MAKING PICKLES ICE CREAM AND CAKE By HARVEY W. WILEY, M. D. ROM a nutritive point of view, both ice cream and cake are valuable foods. They are some- what of the same nature, namely, largely sugars. Ice cream, however, contains quite a quantity of protein and fat derived from the cream. Cake contains some protein and fat also, the proteins being derived from the flour and the fat added as " shortening " in the process of making. Thus it is seen that ice cream and cake are largely heat- forming bodies due to the sugars and fats which they contain. They are, however, by no means devoid of protein, building materials, so that to a certain extent they may be regarded as balanced foods, though the balance is by no means perfect. There is more fat or oil and sugar in ice cream and cake than the needs of the body demand. Hence, a due regard for health would indicate that these desserts are to be eaten in somewhat limited quantities. Above all, the person who sits at the table should satisfy his app2tite in a restrained manner. It should not be all wasted upon the first dishes that come, but a portion of it should be reserved for dessert, when it consists of nutritious foods like cake and ice cream. If this were done, the damage which so often results from eating desserts would be avoided, for the harm usually is due to the fact that the nutritional needs of the body have been gratified before the dessert is reached. Only large children and grown people should partake of these articles of food; the young child will do far better to have his meal without dessert. 357 A Souffle Tin. Directions for Making are on Page 248. for Baking all Souffles. It is Useful Raspberry Jelly. Recipe ivill be found on Page 260. Acorn Cakes. Recipe will be found on Page 391. Devil's Food Pudding. Recipe will be found on Page 383. JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS HE parfaits, mousses, and biscuits (pro- nounced, in French, " biskwee ") are par- ticularly practical desserts, as they need no stirring during the freezing process. Taken as a whole there are perhaps no desserts other than the multitudes of frozen ones that so pleasantly bring a dinner to its close. They are practical, too. They can be made and left to ripen some hours before serving. This enables the cook to set the dessert aside and do all the rest of her work up to the last minute. And again, they are less trouble to prepare than pies, cakes, or puddings. These simple concoctions are in general a light ice cream, having as a base custard, creams, whipped eggs reinforced with fruits, syrups, and gelatine ; or com- binations of these. The most frequent base is whipped cream. The cream must be beaten until very stiff, fla- vored as desired, and placed in a mold in the ice for three to four hours. All ingredients must be carefully folded into the cream to preserve the mosslike texture of the frozen product. Gelatine can be used with thin cream ; and the whip of thin cream as well. The proportions of sugar and flavorings are about double those needed for an ordinary pudding which is not to be frozen. When using fruit it is generally better to use the juices, or pulp, as bits of fruit may become too much like lumps of ice. 359 360 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The difference between parfaits and mousses may be said to consist in the use of eggs and syrups in parfaits and the sugar and gelatine in mousses. The biscuits are merely mousses molded in individual forms. How to Mold These Desserts While preparing the mixture, place the mold on ice until it is thoroughly cold, then put in the mixture by spoonfuls and spread it carefully throughout the mold. Fill so that when the cover is put on some of the mixture will be forced out. Cover the top of the mold (before putting on the lid) with buttered paper or soft wrapping paper a little larger than the surface to be covered. Put on the cover, and bury the mold in the freezing mixture for from three to four hours. If this method is followed, no salt can possibly enter the mold. To Freeze The ordinary proportion for freezing is three parts of ice to one of rock salt, but here we suggest two parts of ice to one of rock salt. When rock salt and ice of about the same size are mixed, the salt melts the ice. In this way the salt, too, dissolves, so that both solids are liquefied. The heat which causes this to happen is drawn from the ice cream which is to be frozen, as it is by this extraction of heat that the freezing process takes place. The best ice for freezing is porous or snow ice, as the air holes permit the salt's easy access to the ice, causing it to melt rapidly. Do not draw off the water in the freezer until the ice floats on top (this liquid is colder JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 361 than the unmelted ice), because the freezing process is at its height and the water from this time on will rise in temperature and can then be drawn off. If necessary, at this point, more of the freezing mixture can be added. To Remove from the Mold Wash the mold in cold water, remove all brine, and wipe perfectly dry. Remove cover and paper. Invert the mold on a flat dish, and if the room is warm it should slip out comfortably. If it does not, rinse a cloth in hot water and wrap it about the mold for a fraction of a minute until the contents slide out readily. It is better not to let mousses or parfaits freeze very hard, as they are difficult to remove from molds and are not pleasant to eat. Very often to obviate the difficulties encountered on removing these frozen desserts, the mold is lined with a sherbet whose melting point is a bit higher than the mousse or parfait. The sherbet melts more quickly and therefore slips away from the mold more readily. Lemon Parfait Make one cupful of thick lemon syrup by heating one cupful sugar with one-half cupful of water. Add the juice and grated rind of three lemons. Pour this over two beaten egg yolks. Cook in a double boiler until it thickens. Remove from the stove and when it cools com- bine it with one pint (two cupfuls) of thick cream beaten until stiff or the whip from thinner cream. Fill molds and pack in ice and salt for three or four hours. 362 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Coffee Parfait Pour a syrup of one-half of a cupful of sugar and one cupful of strong coffee over two beaten eggs. Cook this in a double boiler until it thickens. Remove from stove, and when it is cool, combine it with one pint (two cup- fuls) of thick cream, beaten until stiff or the whip from thinner cream. Fill molds and pack in ice and salt for three or four hours. Walnut Mousse Whip four cupfuls of cream until thick. Flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla. Fold in two cupfuls of walnut meats until all are included. Pack in mold and freeze for three hours. Serve with chocolate sauce. Thin cream can be used with one ounce of gelatine dissolved in one- quarter cupful of water. Mint Biscuit Mousse Rub off the yellow rind of three lemons on six lumps of loaf sugar, then crush the sugar to a powder, adding four tablespoonfuls of mint extract, made from steeping in boiling water a handful of bruised mint leaves. Mix in carefully a cupful of grated macaroon crumbs, the yolk of one well-beaten egg, and a pint of stiffly whipped cream. Beat steadily for five minutes, and turn into small tin molds or forms having watertight covers. Bury this in chopped ice and rock salt for three hours before serving. Serve in individual portions on squares of sponge cake accompanied by any desired sauce. JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 363 Ginger Mousse Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatine in one- fourth of a cupful of cold water, add a pinch of salt and three-fourths of a cupful of powdered sugar. Stir and strain gradually into two coffee cupfuls of cream whipped very stiff and flavored with two tablespoonfuls of ginger syrup, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Before freezing, add one cupful of preserved crystallized ginger, cut in very small pieces. Pineapple Mousse To one cupful of pineapple syrup, heated, add one tablespoonful of gelatine softened in one-fourth of a cupful of cold water, one cupful of sugar, and two table- spoonfuls of lemon juice. Strain and let cool. As the mixture thickens, fold in one quart (four cupfuls) of whipped cream. Mold, pack in ice and salt, and let stand for four hours. Frappes A frappe is a half-frozen ice, of a mushy consistency, and of a granular texture. Gelatine is not used and sugar alone is often employed instead of the usual sugar syrup. This makes the combining of ingredients for frappes simpler than for other dishes. Their coarse, granular texture in contrast to the smooth, fine-grained texture of creams and sherbets is produced chiefly by the different proportions of salt and ice, used in freezing. The smaller amount of salt used, the finer the grain and the smoother the texture; the more salt, the coarser the 364 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK grain and the more granular the texture. A frappe tex- ture can be obtained without the use of the freezer, which greatly reduces one's labor. To Freeze The mixture should be poured into a mold or any tight-fitting utensil, filled to overflowing, a piece of wrap- ping paper laid over the top, the cover fitted on closely, and the mold well packed in a mixture of ice and salt. If a very coarse texture is desired, use equal proportions of salt and ice; if a finer texture is wanted, use one part salt to two of ice ; if a smooth cream texture, one of salt to three of ice. Allow the mixture to remain for three hours in the mold, and if the smallest amount of salt is used allow five or six hours. Frappes, being real thirst quenchers, are especially used to serve from the punch bowl at teas, receptions, and dances, and are superio'r to ice cream and sherbets for such occasions. For a dessert, a garnish of whipped cream and additions of pieces of fruit make an attractive modification. Whipped cream may be placed on top of the frappe after filling a mold two-thirds full and all frozen together successfully. There are some, however, who dislike to eat fruit that is stiffly frozen. There are two classes of f rappes : in one, the fruit finely cut or chopped is used with the juice, giving rise to the name granites; in the other, the fruit juice alone is used, di- luted as for an ice. Tea Frappe Boil one cupful of sugar and two cupfuls of water for five minutes to make a syrup. Add one pint of fairly JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 365 strong tea, freshly made and cooled, then the grated rind and juice of three oranges, the juice of two lemons, and one can of grated pineapple. Freeze in a freezer if de- sired, or turn into a mold, cover the top with paraffin paper or buttered paper, place a cover on it tightly, and pack in a mixture of equal parts of salt and ice for three hours. Remove from the mold and garnish with slices of lemon or crushed mint leaves dusted with powdered sugar. Coffee Frappe Make coffee the strength desired, strain it carefully and cool and sweeten to taste, then place it in a mold, and pack as for all frappes. One cupful of cream may be added before packing if desired. Garnish with whipped cream in serving. Chocolate or Coffee Frappe Make chocolate or cocoa as if for a beverage, add to four cupfuls one cupful sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cupful of strong clear coffee. Freeze in a freezer or mold in ice and salt. Serve in tall sherbet glasses, and garnish with whipped cream. Fruit Juice Frappe Two cupfuls of fruit juice; one cupful of sugar, and two cupfuls of water to make a syrup; the juice of two lemons. Cool, mix, and fill a mold. Bury in equal pro- portions of salt and ice for three hours. If a finer tex- 366 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK ture is desired, use one part of salt to two of ice and allow five or six hours for freezing. Orange and Grape Juice Frappe Add one cupful of sugar to two cupfuls of grape juice and one cupful of orange juice. Add one- fourth of a cupful of lemon juice. One cupful of cream may be added if desired. Fill the mold and pack with ice and salt. Garnish with whipped cream in serving. Cider Frappe To four cupfuls of sweet cider add one-half of a cup- ful of sugar and the juice of one or two lemons. Freeze as other frappes, packing in salt and ice. Granites Made with a Syrup Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and two cupfuls of water. Cool and add two cupfuls of crushed or chopped fruit and juice, and the juice of one or two lemons. Pack as for frappes for five hours. Banana Granite Pour over four large ripe bananas, thinly sliced, the juice of one lemon and three-fourths of a cupful of sugar. Cover this and chill it for an hour. To this add the grated peel of the lemon and two cupfuls of ice water. Place it in a mold and pack it in equal propor- tions of ice and salt for five or six hours. Peaches or apricots may be substituted for bananas. JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 367 Bombe Glaces The regular bombe glace is a sherbet or an ice, lining a mold, the center being filled with a charlotte russe mix- ture. This involves several distinct processes, the freez- ing of a sherbet, the making of the charlotte russe mix- ture and the use of gelatine, the packing in the mold, and the burying of the mold in salt and ice. A satisfactory bombe glace may be made in a much simpler way, the only difference being that the whipped cream forms a layer on the bottom of the mold instead of filling the center. Pour the mixture into the mold, filling it two- thirds full. Fill it to overflowing with sweetened and flavored whipped cream, and cover with paraffin or but- tered wrapping paper before placing the cover. Pack it in a mixture of ice and salt in proportions to produce a fine or coarse texture as desired. Orange Bombe Glace Fill a mold two-thirds full of orange juice to which the juice of one lemon and sugar as desired have been added. Fill the mold to overflowing with two cupfuls of heavy cream, whipped, sweetened with one-half of a cupful of powdered sugar, and flavored with one tea- spoonful of vanilla. Cover the top with paraffin paper or buttered wrapping paper, fit the cover on tightly, and bury in ice and salt mixture for five or six hours. One cupful of broken walnut meats added to the whipped cream is a delicious variation. Coffee Ice Cream Scald, in a double boiler, one pint of milk with one-half cupful of dry coffee. Strain onto three slightly beaten 368 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK eggs, one cupful of sugar, and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. Return to fire and cook until mixture coats the spoon. Add one quart of cream and freeze. Serve with Marshmallow Sauce In the upper part of a double boiler, put one-fourth pound of marshmallows. When melted, pour on a syrup made by boiling one cupful of sugar and one-fourth cup- ful of water ten minutes. Add one-half teaspoonful of vanilla and cool. Marmalade-Parfait Put half a cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a cupful of cold water in a saucepan and stir over a moderate heat until the sugar is dissolved; then let it cook slowly without stirring until a little dropped in cold water will form a ball rolled between the fingers. Re- move immediately from the fire, and pour slowly upon the stiffly whipped whites of three eggs, beating constantly until cold, and then fold in a pint of whipped cream and three tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade (be careful not to let any liquid that may have drained from the cream go into the parfait). Pour at once into a water- tight mold and bury in ice and rock-salt for three hours before serving. Marshmallow Parfait Make a syrup by boiling together in a granite saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar and one cupful of water until it spins a thread, then pour, while boiling JUST HOW TO MAKE FROZEN DESSERTS 369 hot, on the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, and con- tinue beating to a smooth, creamy mass, gradually whip- ping in one pint of whipped cream. Flavor to taste and put into the freezer. Turn the handle for four or five minutes, and when frozen to the consistency of mush, stir in one cupful of chopped nut meats, and cut up marshmallows. Freeze until firm and smooth, repacking in ice and salt for two or three hours before serving. Dolly Madison's Ice Cream One full pint of milk, one cupful of white sugar, four tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, two well-beaten eggs. Let the milk come to a boil. Beat the eggs, sugar, and flour together, stir these into the boiling milk, and let all cook for twenty minutes. When cold add one teacupful of sugar and one quart of rich sweet cream. Flavor with a vanilla bean, which should be put in the milk to boil. Put into a freezer and turn until hard. Dolly Madison's Frozen Custard Boil together one quart of milk and a small teacupful of sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs and one teaspoonful of sifted flour. When cold add the beaten whites of the eggs and one pint of rich cream. Drop into the boiling milk a sprig of peach-tree leaves, which imparts a flavor resembling almond essence. Re- move the sprigs just before freezing. Mint Fruit Sherbet Place in a large mixing bowl a bunch of fresh mint, bruise the leaves, and pour upon them a quart of boiling 370 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK hot sugar syrup; then add the juice of two lemons and the grated rind of one, the pulp of half a pineapple, and a tiny pinch of ground cinnamon; cover the contents of the bowl closely and let stand imtil quite cold. Have in readiness a chilled freezer, into which is strained the fruit puree, and after adjusting the cover, freeze to the consistency of soft snow; now pour in slowly the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, the other half of the pine- apple flaked into tiny particles and a tablespoonful of grated cocoanut. Continue freezing until firm and smooth. Serve in small crystal or glass sherbet cups, covered with minced candied orange peel. MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 371 372 MORE W 'AYS OF MAKING DESSERTS MORE WAYS OF MAKING DESSERTS 373 374 MORE W AYS OF MAKING DESSERTS JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE N cake-making, correct measurements are par- ticularly necessary. Good judgment and ex- perience have taught some cooks to measure by sight, but the majority need accurate guides. Use standard measuring cups, prefer- ably glass, the regulation tea- and table- spoons, and a case-knife to level the measures. For the mixing and beating, a wooden spoon with slits is good. Only the best ingredients are worthy to be made into cake. Economize on the quantity, but never on the quality, of materials. Coarse granulated sugar is apt to give a coarse texture, so choose the fine granulated for cakes. Bread flour contains more of the sticky gluten than pastry flour., therefore cake made with it is never so light and tender. All baking-powder mixtures are better when the more easily raised pastry flour is used. But if bread flour must be used, measure two tablespoonfuls less for every cupful called for in a recipe. Never try to put a cake together until all the ingredients are measured and ready, the pans are properly buttered, and the fire is attended to. The fire must last without replenishing until the baking is completed. Sponge Cake Sponge cakes depend for their lightness upon the amount of air which is beaten into the mixture before 375 376 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK baking. The following is a safe general rule. It is often varied, and with good results,, provided a larger amount of air is entangled in the batter. Never stir a sponge cake batter, as the air already entangled is thus allowed to escape. Beating, cutting, and folding are the correct strokes. Separate the eggs and beat the yolks until very thick and lemon-colored; beat the whites until stiff and dry. Add the sugar to the yolks and beat again, then add the flavoring. Beat in the whites and finally cut and fold in the flour sifted with the salt. For this stroke use a case-knife, adding the flour gradually and cutting it in. Never stir it. Three eggs, one-half cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of flour, a pinch of salt, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, and grated rind from one-half a lemon are the correct proportions for a small loaf. Butter Cakes Butter cakes depend for their lightness upon the gas carbon dioxide obtained from baking powder or soda and cream of tartar. There are almost as many methods for putting together a batter as there are cakes. The following is not the only correct method, but any butter cake may be put together with success by just this method. It is a safe one to learn and use when only proportions are known. Measure the dry ingredients and mix and sift all save the sugar together. Measure the butter, and cream it with the sugar. Butter may be softened by leaving it in a warm room; measure by packing it solid and level into the cup or spoon. Beat with a wooden spoon until light and creamy. Add the yolks of the eggs or the whole eggs, beaten until light, Flag Cakes: Any Cake may be cut in Oblongs and iced in Plain White, then decorated with red Candies to form the Stripes and blue Candies to form the Stars of The Flag. Date Sandwiches: Lady Fingers with a Filling of Chopped Date and Nut Meats. For the Afternoon Tea Tray. Red and White Currant and Raspberry. Recipe on Page 274. Cherry Salad. Recipe on Page 273. JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 377 the liquid, and then the flour, or the two latter may be added alternately, always beginning with the flour. Add the whites last if they alone are used or if they are beafen separately, in order not to lose the air beaten into them. Beating alone makes a cake fine-grained, but a cake may be light and tender, thoroughly eatable, with but little beating. Never stir a cake after the final beating, because, as with the sponge cake, the air is thus allowed to escape. Fruit, when added immediately after the sugar, as in dark fruit cake, need not be floured. When this cannot be done on account of discoloring the batter, the fruit must be floured and beaten in last. Another good way is to fill the pans half full with plain batter, then add the floured fruit to remaining batter and put in pans. Butter the pans thoroughly, then dredge with flour, shaking all the superfluous flour from the pan. A narrow strip of buttered paper, reaching over the sides, may be used in a well-buttered pan. In filling, be especially careful to fill corners and sides, leaving a slight depression in the center. When baked the cake will then be flat on top. Many blame the oven or the batter for a " hilly " cake, when it is merely the way the batter was heaped in the pan. Mysteries of Baking Much, after all, depends on the baking. Many a prom- ising cake has been ruined in the oven because there must be so much left to individual judgment. There are no hard-and-fast rules which can be laid down for cake baking. The stereotyped cooking-school rule is help- ful. It divides the time into quarters : in the first quarter, 378 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the batter rises ; in the second quarter it continues to rise and begins to brown ; in the third quarter it continues browning; in the fourth quarter it finishes baking and shrinks from pan. If the oven is too hot the back covers may be raised. It is safer to put a pan of cold water into the oven rather than to put a paper over the cake, as is commonly done to prevent burning. As soon as heated, refill with cold water, if necessary. Do not move a cake until it is risen to its full height ; after that there is no danger of its falling. Open the oven door as often as necessary, provided it be done carefully and slowly. It is the rush of cold air into the oven which causes the cake to fall. Fruit cake and pound cake are done when they are firm yet springy to the touch. With other cakes, the best test is the shrinking from the pans. Keep the oven heat uniform and do not attempt to use the oven for any- thing save the cakes. A slow oven causes a coarse- textured cake, while too hot an oven will make the cake crack in the center. Invert the cake, after baking, on a wire cake rest. If it sticks, loosen around edges with a knife and leave it inverted, to be helped out by its own weight. If boiled frosting is made, the cake may be hot or cold when it is frosted, but never put an uncooked frosting on a cold cake. Shaker Nut Cake One-half cupful of butter, one cupful of light brown sugar, two beaten eggs, one-half cupful of water, one teaspoonful of lemon, 'one and one-half cupfuls of flour JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 379 sifted with one teaspoonful of baking powder, one cupful of hickory or butternut meats, coarsely chopped. Bake in three round, shallow pans, in a slow oven. Cool and put together with maple fondant (made with maple sugar like ordinary boiled frosting), ornamenting the top of the loaf with nut meats which have been sparingly sprinkled with salt and baked for ten minutes in a mod- erate oven. This renders nuts much more toothsome as well as digestible. Apple Sauce Cake One cupful of unsweetened apple sauce, one and one- half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of shortening, yolk of one egg, one level teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, one-half level teaspoonful of soda, one level teaspoonful of baking powder, and two cupfuls of flour. Strain apple sauce through a sieve, add the soda, melted shortening, and flour sifted with baking powder and spices. Beat all together thoroughly and bake in two layers. Put together with a simple frosting. Crispettes Beat two eggs and stir into them a cupful of white and brown sugar, mixed, and four tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, then a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat thoroughly and add a cupful of English walnuts, chopped fine. Drop the dough by the teaspoonful into buttered pans, allowing three inches for cakes to spread. These are delicious for afternoon tea, or when served with fruit for dessert. 380 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Peter Pans One-half cupful of equal parts of butter and lard, one-half cupful of dark brown sugar, one egg, well beaten, one-half cupful of Porto Rico molasses, two-thirds cupful of slightly soured milk, one teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract. In two cupfuls of sifted flour thoroughly blend one teaspoonful of soda, one-half cupful each of finely chopped raisins and nuts. Cream butter and lard with sugar; add the ingredients in the order given, beating all very thor- oughly; bake in well-buttered small patty tins or drop on well-buttered tins and bake in hot oven. Desirable for teas and luncheons. Hot Water Spice Cake Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three table- spoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs, one cupful of molasses, one teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, and lemon extract, two cupfuls of flour, one-half cupful of chopped raisins, one teaspoonful of soda, one cupful of boiling water. Mix in order given, sifting cloves and cinnamon with the flour and adding the soda dissolved in the boiling water the last thing. Bake in layers in a moderate oven. Use the whites of the eggs for frosting. Hot Water Chocolate Cake Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful of sugar, yolk of one egg, two squares of chocolate cooked in one- half cupful of boiling water, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in one-half cupful of boiling water, one tea- spoonful of baking powder sifted with one and one-half JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 381 ctipfuls of flour, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix in order given and bake in a square loaf in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Cover with boiled frosting, using the white of the egg left from the cake for the frosting. It is rather unusual to have both soda and baking powder as called for in this recipe, but it is im- possible to get light spongy cake if a larger amount of one alone is used. Follow the directions exactly and you will be surprised at the delicious cake which is the result. Maple Drop Cakes Two ctipfuls of maple syrup, one-half cupful of cream or milk, two eggs, one-half cupful of melted butter, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and flour enough to make a soft batter. Bake in gem pans. Oatmeal Drops One cupful each of sugar and butter, creamed together, two eggs, two cupfuls each of flour and rolled oats, five tablespoonfuls of milk, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one- half teaspoonful each of salt and soda sifted with the flour, one cupful each of raisins and English walnuts finely chopped. Mix nuts and raisins before putting through the chopper. Drop the dough by half-teaspoons, a couple of inches apart, on inverted pans or rimless tin sheets and bake in a moderate oven. Rich Short Bread Rub to a cream three-fourths of a pound of butter, add one-half cupful of sugar, the beaten yolks of four eggs, 382 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and one pound of flour. Stir in the peel of one lemon and one-half cupful of blanched almonds, both finely chopped. Knead this till it is a smooth dough and roll out on a floured board to the thickness of one-fourth of an inch or more. Cut into squares. Have ready a plate of finely chopped candied peel, nuts, shredded citron, and a little sugar. Into this lay one side of each square before putting them in the pan to bake. The mixture will adhere to the cakes more satisfactorily than when sprinkled on. Scotch Cookies Two and one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, two and one- half cupfuls of flour (leaving out one-half cupful for rolling), one cupful of sugar, two eggs, three tablespoon- fuls of milk, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of soda, one-half cupful of butter, one-third cupful of beef drip- pings, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of spices cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove mixed. Cream shortening and sugar; add eggs, well beaten, and the milk in which the soda has been dissolved. Mix the remaining ingredients, then stir all' together. Set aside to get cold before rolling thin. All cookies containing rolled oats need a sharp cutter. This rule makes a large quantity. Fruit Bars Mix two and one-half cupfuls of flour, scant two and one-half cupfuls of rolled oats, one cupful each of butter and brown sugar, one-half cupful of sour milk, and one JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 383 teaspoonftil of soda. Flour the board generously, roll thin, and cut with a narrow, oblong cutter. Stone and put through a chopper one and one-half pounds of dates, roll this mass also into a thin sheet, and cut with same cutter. Put a layer of date paste between every two of the cooky dough, sandwich fashion, and bake in a hot oven. When cold pack edgewise in a jar and hide the jar. Ordinary cooky dough may be manipulated suc- cessfully, in a similar way. Cut out in circles and use jelly, chopped figs and pecans, chopped candied fruits; in fact, any appetizing mixture of this sort, for a filling. Lay a teaspoonful of " sweetmeats " in the center of a round ; wet edges with milk before covering with a second circle; press edges together and bake quickly. Gingersnaps If gingersnap dough is mixed at night and stands in a cool place till morning, it can be handled far more easily and with less flour. It makes these wafers de- licious to leave out the ground ginger and add preserved ginger finely chopped instead. This simple recipe is ex- cellent : One cupful of best Porto Rico molasses scald and cool one-half cupful of softened butter, one-half teaspoonful each of soda and salt, one teaspoonful of yellow ginger and flour to roll very thin. Cut into rounds and bake in a moderate oven. Molasses mixtures burn easily. Marshmallow Cake Beat one-half cupful of butter to a cream, add one and one-half cupfuls of sugar gradually, and beat until 384 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK creamy. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk with two cupfuls of flour into which have been sifted three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat the whites of five eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add one-eighth of a teaspoonf ul of salt. Fold gently into the batter, and when well mixed add one-half of a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake in shallow, round tins and when cool fill with marshmallow filling made as follows : Marshmallow Filling Add two cupfuls of sugar to one-half cupful of milk, heat slowly to boiling point, and boil five minutes. Break one-half a pound of marshmallows into pieces and. melt in the double boiler. Add four tablespoonfuls of hot water and cook until the mixture is smooth. Add the milk syrup to this, stirring steadily. Take from the fire and beat until cool and thick enough to spread. Add one-half teaspoonful of vanilla, and then spread between the cake. This may be used for the top as well, or an extra frosting made with one cupful of fondant, the white of an egg, beaten until stiff, and one-fourth tea- spoonful of vanilla. Melt the fondant, add the white of the egg, and stir over the fire for a couple of minutes. Remove and beat until cool and stiff enough to spread. Flavor with vanilla and lemon juice. Chocolate Gingerbread Place in a mixing bowl half a cupful of molasses, one tablespoonful each of melted lard and butter, half a cupful of brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a quarter of a teaspoonful each of grated nutmeg and ground ginger, and a heaping tablespoonful of grated JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 385 sweet chocolate mixed to a paste with a little warm water; blend the ingredients thoroughly and then stir in one teaspoonful of baking soda, dissolved in a small cupful of sour cream and sufficient sifted flour to form a cake batter. Pour into an oblong greased cake pan and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven, covering when cold with a chocolate frosting. Buttermilk Gingerbread One large cupful of molasses, one well-beaten egg, two- thirds cupful of buttermilk; fill the cup up with any shortening, two teaspoonfuls of soda, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful of ginger, and flour enough to make a pouring batter. Devil's Food Pudding Mix together one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, and one-third of a cake of chocolate (melted) ; then add two well-beaten eggs, half a cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little hot water, and about two cupfuls of sifted flour ; beat until very light, flavoring with half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and bake in layer greased cake pans, allowing about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. Mocha Cake One cupful of sugar, one cupful of flour, one tea- spoonful of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda, one large tablespoonful of melted butter, one-half cupful of boiling milk, two eggs, not beaten. Sift the flour, sugar, cream of tartar, and soda together twice. Add the 386 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK butter, then break in the eggs, beat. Add the milk last. Beat thoroughly. Bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Mocha Frosting One cupful of powdered sugar, a small piece of butter, two tablespoonfuls of coffee, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Cream the butter and sugar and add the cocoa, then coffee and vanilla. Add more sugar, if necessary. Spread with a knife dipped in hot water. Mary's Cake One and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, one cupful of tepid water, two and one-half cup- fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of almond extract, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Whites of four eggs. Bake in layers, in a quick oven. Filling for Mary's Cake One cupful of sour cream, one cupful of sugar, boil, then beat in yolks of four eggs and one cupful of chopped nuts, with one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. Buttermilk Cake Two cupfuls of coffee C sugar, one cupful of butter, two cupfuls of buttermilk, two level teaspoonfuls of soda, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful each of cloves and nutmeg, one cupful each of seeded raisins and currants, and flour to make a not too stiff batter. JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 387 Feather Cakes Cream a quarter of a cupful of butter, gradually add one cupful of sugar, yolks of two eggs, half a cupful of milk, and one and one-half cupfuls of flour, mixed and sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, fold into the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and add a quarter of a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake forty minutes in a mod- erate oven. Cover with white frosting. Date Cookies Have ready a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, half a teaspoonful of baking powder, two cupfuls of flour, the yolk of an egg, a cupful of chopped dates, and enough milk to moisten. Cream the butter and sugar and add the egg yolk beaten with a little milk. Add the dates and the mixture of moist ingredients. Add more milk if the dough is too stiff to roll out. Cut out thin cookies and bake. As this rule makes as many as sixty cookies, the dough for variety's sake may be divided into several parts and each part flavored in a different fashion, chopped dates being used in only one portion. Another may be flavored with orange, a third with lemon, and a fourth with chocolate. Cocoanut may be used in the fifth. Orange rind and cocoanut together will make delicious cookies. Black Rocks One and a half cupfuls of brown sugar, a scant cupful of shortening, three eggs, half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, three-fourths of a cupful of raisins cut in small pieces, half a cupful of chopped walnut meats, one 3 88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK teaspoonful of vanilla, five tablespoonfuls of hot water, one teaspoonful of soda, and one teaspoonful of baking powder stirred into three cupfuls of flour. Beat well and drop from a spoon onto buttered pans. Bake in a mod- erate oven. Chocolate Crisps Turn into a mixing bowl three tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, a pinch each of ground cinnamon and nutmeg, half a cupful of brown sugar, and half a cupful of mixed shortening and butter (melted). Mix these ingredients thoroughly and then add half a cupful of thick sour cream in which a scant teaspoonful of baking soda has been dissolved, and suf- ficient sifted pastry flour to form a cooky dough ; roll out on the bread board into a very thin sheet and with a cutter stamp into thin wafers ; dust these lightly with grated sweet chocolate and bake in a quick oven for about seven minutes. Butter Cakes One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of brown sugar/ three cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of ground cin- namon, and one egg. Cream butter and sugar, add cin- namon and egg, add a little flour at a time, knead until well mixed, roll out on a cake board one-quarter of an inch thick, cut with cake cutter. Bake in a hot oven until brown. These are delicious with afternoon tea. Buttermilk Cookies Cream two cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of butter, JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 389 add one cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of soda, spices or flavoring to taste, and flour sufficient to roll. Lace Cakes Mix thoroughly together one tablespoonful of melted butter, one cupful of granulated sugar, two well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of vanilla, a little grated nutmeg, and two and a half cupfuls of oatmeal into which have been stirred two and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Have the batter quite stiff and drop by the teaspoonful on a buttered baking sheet, having them about an inch apart. Bake in a moderate oven until crisp and brown on the edges. Coffee Squares Cream one-half cupful of sugar with the same quantity of butter, adding one well-beaten egg, half a cupful of strained black coffee, a pinch of salt, half a cupful of milk, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted with two cupfuls of flour; beat thoroughly and then stir in half a cupful of floured currants. Pour into a well- buttered square pan, and after sprinkling with cinnamon and powdered sugar bake in a moderate oven for three- ' quarters of an hour. Cut when cold into small squares. Orange Puffs with Orange Sauce Make a cake mixture, using half a cupful of butter, a cupful of sugar, two eggs, three-fourths of a cupful of milk, two cupfuls of flour, four teaspoonfuls of bak- ing powder, and half a teaspoonful of orange extract. Bake in muffin pans and serve hot with orange sauce. 390 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Orange Sauce Mix half a cupful of sugar with one and a half table- spoonfuls of cornstarch, and one-eighth of a teaspoonful of salt. Add a cupful of boiling water and boil five minutes. Add the grated rind and juice of two oranges and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Choux Pastry Put four tablespoons of butter into a saucepan, add a cupful of water, bring to boiling point, add quickly two cupfuls of sifted flour and a pinch of salt, stir well with a wooden spoon until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, remove from the fire, allow to cool, but not become cold, add four eggs, beating each one thoroughly in. Put away in a cool place for one hour. Put into a forcing bag with a plain tube and force on to a baking tin into small rounds, brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. When cold split them open on one side and fill them with orange filling. Sprinkle powdered sugar on the top. For the orange filling, melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, yolks of two eggs, grated rind, and strained juice of one orange, and stir over the fire till the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Then add one dessertspoonful of cake crumbs and one teaspoonful of lemon juice; when cold, the mix- ture is ready for use. Bangor Brownies Cream one-half cupful of butter with one cupful of sugar, add three squares of chocolate (melted), two eggs JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 391 slightly beaten, one cup of chopped walnuts, and one-half cupful of sifted flour. Bake in a thin layer, on a cooky sheet, for ten minutes in a moderate oven. When done, cut in strips or squares. Acorn Cakes Cream half a cupful of butter with one and three- quarter cupfuls of sugar, add two well-beaten eggs, half a cupful of buttermilk, one teaspoonful of baking soda, one-third cupful of melted chocolate, three cupfuls of sifted flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, half a cupful of chopped nut meats, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and two-thirds cupful of water. Mix and pour into a shallow, buttered cake tin, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Cool and cut into squares. Cover with white frosting and decorate with candy acorns. Valentine Cakes Cream half a cupful of butter with two cupfuls of sugar and add one cupful of sweet milk, alternately with two cupfuls of flour mixed and sifted with two teaspoon- fuls of baking powder. Fold in the well-beaten whites of four eggs and flavor with vanilla. Bake in a square pan. When cool cut into hearts, using a heart cutter, cover with a chocolate icing over which sprinkle cocoa- nut. For the icing, place one cupful and a half of sugar with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a third of a cake of chocolate in a saucepan and boil until it will rope when poured from the spoon. Pour this over the beaten whites of two eggs. Beat until it thickens. 392 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Sugar Cookies Cream two cupfuls of sugar with one cupful of butter, or other shortening, add two well-beaten eggs, and beat till very light. Add alternately one-half cupful of milk and one cupful of flour sifted with one-half teaspoonful of salt and one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Then add enough more flour to make a dough stiff enough to roll out. Cut with a biscuit cutter, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and bake in a quick oven. They may be flavored with lemon, or vanilla if preferred. Soft Molasses Cookies One cupful of butter, one cupful of brown sugar, one cupful of molasses, brown Porto Rico, one cupful oi sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one teaspoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, two large teaspoon- fuls of vinegar. Make very soft with flour and bake in a moderate oven. They burn very easily. Chocolate Nut Wafers Mix in the order given : one cupful of sugar, two squares melted chocolate, one-half cupful melted butter, yolks and whites of two eggs beaten separately and then together, one-half cupful flour. Spread very thinly over cooky sheet and sprinkle on it one cup of coarsely chopped nut meats. Bake not too brown. Cut in oblongs and remove. This makes a large quantity. They are popular for teas or with ice cream or frappe. JUST HOW TO MAKE CAKE 393 Chocolate Cake Cream one tablespoonful of butter with one cupful of sugar, and add the beaten yolk of one egg. Add one- half cupful of milk and three-quarters of a cupful of sifted flour. Add one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little water and then two squares of melted chocolate, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and another half-cupful of milk ; finally add three-quarters of a cupful of flour sifted with one-half teaspoonful of baking powder and a half- teaspoonful of salt. Beat together thoroughly. The mixture will be thinner than the average cake batter. Bake in a moderate oven. Frost while hot. Graham Torte Separate five eggs ; beat the yolks until thick and yel- low, then add two level cupfuls of granulated sugar and cream together. Grind enough graham crackers in the food chopper to make one and one-half cupfuls. Stir into this one teaspoonful of baking powder and one-half tea- spoonful of salt. Add to the sugar and egg mixture with one cupful of ground nutmeats. Finally, cut in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in two layer cake pans. Make the filling as follows : Heat one cupful of milk with one cupful of sugar in a double boiler, add one tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a very little cold milk. Stir while it thickens, then cook fifteen minutes ; pour over a beaten egg, return to the double boiler for a moment's cooking. Then add one teaspoonful vanilla, and set away to cool. Serve the torte with this filling and with whipped cream on top. 394 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 395 396 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE 397 398 MORE WAYS OF MAKING CAKE JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE HEN practically all coffees were sold as either Java or Java and Mocha, the housekeeper, was perfectly satisfied. She knew exactly what it was she wanted, and expected to get it at whatever price suited her fancy. When she objected to paying thirty-five to forty cents the pound there was not the slightest difficulty in accommodating her, and even at less than twenty cents, pound packages could be obtained, branded in large type with the magic words, " Old Government Java and Mocha Coffee." A great change in the methods of preparing and label- ing foods has taken place within the last few years due to the enactment of the Food and Drugs Act of June 3Oth, 1906. A multitude of masqueraders have been unmasked, and many thousands of packages must now stand forth for what they really are. The housekeeper is all at sea. The coffee does not taste the same as it used to. Great has been the fall, far-reaching the frauds that have been stopped. Therefore, it is not strange to find the housekeeper slow to look with favor on the package commodity that for many years has been grossly misrepresented. Briefly, a few of the coffees that were offered under a Java and Mocha label and that found favor so long as the price was low and they made a good appearance, were as follows : Santos coffee from Brazil was the worst offender, for the reason that about three times more 399 400 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK coffee is grown there than is grown in all the other coffee-producing countries put together, and naturally over seventy-five per cent, of our breakfast beverage is that particular growth. Santos coffees were packed straight or in combination with small amounts of other coffees as Java, or Java and Mocha, and sold at the lowest possible figures. When a slightly better value was desired, a percentage of Maracaibo was used with Santos or with the smaller bean Bourbon-Santos, this latter combination more nearly resembling the genuine Java and Mocha in appearance. Other packers claimed that a Bucaramanga was not only similar in style to a Sumatra coffee, then known as Java, but of the same character in the cup. Some deal- ers have even contended that it was impossible to detect any difference. There were therefore combinations of Bucaramanga and small bean Bourbon-Santos sold as Java and Mocha. A degree higher in cup quality, as well as in price, are combinations of Bogota and Bourbon-Santos. Eliminat- ing the packages containing Brazil coffee only, and no other combination of coffees has had so wide a distribu- tion as Java and Mocha. An acid Bourbon-Santos is the nearest approach in the cup to Mocha of any coffee grown, and it is supposed to have been cultivated in the first instance from Mocha seed. In appearance it is far superior to the irregular quakerish Mocha, though usually equally inferior in the cup. This is not always the case, as there are winey Bourbon coffees that out- drink some of the world-famed coffees from Arabia, although such coffees are rare. Bogota (Colombian coffee) found a market as Java, or, in connection with Bourbon-Santos, as Java and Mocha, for three reasons: First, the price was less than de- JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 401 manded for coffees from the Dutch East Indies. Sec- ond, the roast was very much handsomer than that of coffees from Java or Sumatra, excepting certain washed types. Third, on account of the real merit there is in this growth of coffee. It should be noted that some of the finest coffees grown, equaling if not exceeding the coffees of the Dutch East Indies, are produced in Colombia (Bogota), Guatemala, and in Mexico. It has been frequently stated that the housekeeper was more or less responsible for the misbranding of coffee. There is some truth in the statement, for the consumer has insisted upon obtaining Java and Mocha at whatever price it was their purpose to pay. How- ever that may be, it also is quite true that the buyer for the most part received fair value for the amount paid. Whose ever the fault, the fact remains that under the proper labels many brands are for the most part de- cidedly unsatisfactory in the cup. The housekeeper is beginning to realize that she has been purchasing a much lower grade of goods than she supposed. In other words, the veneer is off, the true material stands re- vealed, and she doesn't like it because it is not what she supposed it to be. Naturally the questions arise, What is a good coffee? How is the purchaser to know what to ask for, and is it possible to get Java and Mocha? In this discussion we must eliminate coffees bought for a price, or those bought for a premium. Neither of these propositions results in satisfactory brands of coffees. Rio coffee is harsh and unpleasant in taste, and de- mand for it is rapidly decreasing. Santos coffees with even a touch of the harsh Rio tang are to be avoided, and although smooth drinking Santos coffees have a 402 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK place, they are rather lacking in character and snap. A combination of Venezuelan coffee known as Maracaibo with Santos is the next step toward desirable cup re- sults. This coffee, however, is inclined to be irregular in roast and does not produce uniform results in the cup, as it is inclined to turn bitter if permitted to stand even a short time. Maracaibo coffees, as a rule, are heavier in the cup than Santos, more decided in character, but more uncer- tain in cup results. They are also inclined to be irregular roasters. Above this we reach the coffee of Colombia known as Bogota. Many satisfactory blends are combinations of Bogota and Bourbon-Santos in varying proportions. There is nothing in a moderate price coffee that will give better results than a blend composed of two parts full-bodied Bogota and one part acid Bourbon-Santos. Properly made a smooth palatable liquor results. Bogota coffee develops into a large handsome bean, a uniform roaster, full of flavor, body, and aroma. The stripe down the center of the bean is pronounced and at one end this stripe is inclined to make a slight twist or turn. It is a very satisfactory coffee to use alone, and if the housewife can purchase a good Bogota it is always possible for her to prepare a good cup of coffee. These are the growths of really fine coffees. There are of course, Segundas, or second grades, many of which drink well, but we are considering only the fancy types. Blends composed of Bogota together with a Guatemalan, or a Mexican coffee or both, produce some of the highest types obtainable. A Guatemala has a lighter body, is slightly smoother in appearance than a Bogota and has a straight stripe inclined to open some- JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 403 what wider. It is full of aroma and gives forth a spicy fragrance that is most delightful. The Mexican bean is usually smaller, slightly more rounded, and roasts with a more open stripe than either of the two coffees just mentioned. It has a heavy acid character which blends particularly well with a. smooth Bogota, while the Guatemala adds the delicate aroma peculiar in this coffee. As against coffees from the Dutch East Indies it is merely a matter of preference. Coffee drinkers that are looking for the musty character of the Old Crop Sumatra coffee find this character only in such coffees. It is the coffee now known as Interior Padang grown in Sumatra which was formerly the Old Government Java. The coffee is an irregular roaster due to the method of curing and ageing. All coffees improve by being held in the warehouse, but no coffees are now mellowed by being stored for varying periods of time as was formerly the case with the coffees controlled by the Dutch Govern- ment. In addition to this, the long voyage under a tropical sun around the Horn in sailing vessels further mellowed and colored the coffee. These coffees are no longer held, as used to be the case, and it is probable that the last sailing vessel from the Dutch East Indies to bring in a cargo of coffee arrived in May, 1913. The coffees in future will come forward in the faster steam vessels and the benefit of the long voyage will be lost. The coffee actually grown on the island of Java and now sold as genuine Java is a large smooth roasting bean with a straight regular stripe. The cup character is quite different from the Padang coffees, but it is very much smoother and has an individual quality easily detectable. The Mocha coffee of Arabia is a small irregular bean, 404 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK one of the poorest roasting coffees grown, containing a considerable quantity of broken and misshapen berries. In the cup its merit is at once apparent, as it has a pe- culiar winey acid reproduced in no other coffee. A straight Arabian Mocha made full strength furnishes a most excellent after-dinner coffee. There are innumerable combinations that may be made up by using coffee from the Dutch East Indies together with the three superior growths of the western hemisphere. It is quite apparent that such combinations are necessary in order to satisfy the different demands of the various consumers. If you would have the best flavored coffee, buy it in the bean and grind it fresh each time it is to be made. If a method of making coffee is selected which demands pulverized coffee, the most satisfactory mill is a hand- driven miniature of the type used in the shops, run by hand or motor power. The cheaper mills are satisfactory when fine granular coffee is desired; they can be ad- justed from " very fine " to " coarse " and can be ob- tained at practically all prices. Actual tests in coffee making show a remarkable in- crease in strength, the more finely ground is the coffee. Each granule of ground coffee consists of minute com- partments which are broken into more and more as the berry is more finely ground. The coarser the grind the less the yield. The finer the grind the quicker and stronger the yield. No less important is the fresh grinding, for coffee, even in the tightest of containers, depreciates in flavor very fast. Coffee pulverized fresh each day for four days was tested blind at the expiration of that time. Each day's grinding was readily identified, some flavor and aroma being lost with each day's standing. So notice- JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 405 able is this, that when fresh ground coffee is used, the familiar " spoonful to the pot " may be omitted with no loss in strength. There are four common methods of making coffee: boiling, steeping, percolating, and filtering. To boil coffee is practically to spoil coffee, for in the process the coarse fibrous shell is broken down and adds its crude flavor to the delicate flavor oils of the coffee bean. Moreover, the liquid must be " cleared " with eggs, adding a foreign matter which is no improve- ment in flavor. Finally this method yields a relatively high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin, and it is the latter especially that dietitians now question as possibly harmful to certain individuals. When coffee is " steeped," it is placed in cold water, brought quickly to a boil, then removed and settled with a dash of cold water. As in the boiled coffee the coffee is used ground " medium fine." Practically the same criticisms may be made to this method : Perfectly clear coffee is difficult to obtain; the full aromatic flavor is prevented, because other elements injurious to flavor are extracted ; and this method too yields a high per cent, of both caffeine and coffee-tannin. Percolating coffee results in a practically clear bever- age. Many users of percolators think that the boiling of the water forces it to rise through the tube. Instead, it is the force of condensation, and the temperature ranges between 130 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahren- heit. The water does not boil at all. Percolating coffee produces clear coffee and a better flavor to many palates than the previous methods, but this method also shows a high per cent, of caffeine and coffee-tannin. Thus it seems to make little difference in regard to the tempera- ture of the water as to the extraction of these com- 406 THE PURE FOOD. COOK BOOK pounds. Instead, it is the length of time the coffee is in contact with the water. The quicker the coffee is made, then, the less caffeine and coffee-tannin will be present. For this reason especially many will be interested in the fourth method: filtering the coffee. Filtered coffee is made so rapidly that only small per cents of caffeine and coffee-tannin are present in the finished beverage, while the flavor and aroma are excellent. In this method only finely pulverized or powdered coffee can be used successfully. In its simplest form fresh boiling water is poured through the coffee held in a cloth strainer, above a tea cup. For some reason, certain metals have an effect on coffee flavor, so the use of china or glass is advisable. A recipe sanctioned by Dr. Wiley reads as follows : How to Make Coffee The best method of brewing coffee, as determined by the Better Coffee-Making Committee of the National Association of Coffee Roasters, after thorough experi- ment, and correspondence with experts, including Dr. Harvey W. Wiley : Fill a kettle with fresh cold water and put it on to boil. Place over an open china teapot, kept just for coffee (as metal is deleterious), a clean, wet, old linen napkin, or a new square of unbleached muslin, letting it sag toward the center. Put into the depression four heaping tablespoonfuls (for four cups of coffee) of finely pulverized coffee. This fine pulverization is very important. Ordinary ground coffee will not do at all, and gives weak infusions. JUST HOW TO BUY AND MAKE COFFEE 407 When the water in the kettle is boiling fiercely, pour it through the coffee slowly until four cupfuls have gone through, or a trifle more, for four cupfuls of coffee. Cover and take at once to table. Wash the cloth immediately after breakfast and keep it in a jar of cold water, never permitting it to get dry, and freshening the water every day. Keeping the cloth sweet is absolutely essential. Every effort should be made to this end. The least souring ruins the coffee. Follow these directions strictly, paying special atten- tion to having the coffee very fine, like flour, and the water boiling, and you will have excellent coffee even though you buy cheap blends. 408 MORE WAYS OF MAKING COFFEE COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES COMPLETE INDEX TO RECIPES TITLE PAGE Ambrosia 251 Angel Custard 257 Apple Custard 256 Apples, Baked, with Marsh- mallow 252 Apples, Stuffed 'for Roast Pork 230 Apricot Dumplings 247 Artichokes, Boiled Jerusa- lem 327 Asparagus, Boiled 317 Banana Compote 258 Barberry Preserve 306 Sauce 306 Beans, Red Kidney, with Cheese in Chafing Dish.. 322 Beans, String 319 Beef, Braised with Oysters 207 ' , Casserole of 210 Loaf Mexican Sauce 217 Olives 219 " , Parker House Roast 215 " Tongue en Casserole 212 Beefsteak, Just How to Broil 202 Beefsteak, Rolled 216 Beet Chowder 353 Biscuit, Buttermilk 87 , Buttermilk Spoon. 87 , Sour Cream 88 " , Swedish 78 Black Rocks 387 Bobtee 218 Bombe Glace 367 Bouillon, Jellied 113 " . , Royal 113 Bread 70 " , Bishop's 86 " , Custard Corn 86 TITLE PAGE Bread, Hominy Spoon... 87 ' , Just How to Make. 75 ' , Nut 85 " , Pennsylvania Dutch 80 Puffs 80 Breakfast Breads, Just How to Make Hot 81 Breakfast, What to Serve for 12 Brioche Cakes 89 Brown Betty 244 Brownies, Bangor 390 Buckwheat Cakes 84 " 90 Bunuelos , 245 Cabbage, Hors d'Oeuvre. . 329 Cake Apple Sauce 379 ' Buttermilk 386 ' Chocolate 393 ' Hot Water Chocolate 380 ' Hot Water Spice. . . . 380 ' Just How to Make. . 375 ' Marshmallow 383 ' Mary's 386 ' . Mocha 385 ' Shaker 378 Sponge 375 Cakes Acorn 391 ' Butter 376 " 388 1 Feather 387 Lace '.389 Maple Drop 381 1 Valentine 391 Calves' Hearts 212 Cape Cod Creamed Fish and Potatoes 165 Carrots, Mashed 323 " , Mint-Glazed 322 411 412 INDEX TITLE PAGE Celery, Baked, with Cheese 324 , Fried 327 Cheese Cream, with Rice. . 105 Custard 138 " Timbales 137 Chestnut Stuffing 177 Chicken a la King (Wal- dorf) 175 Chicken, Curried 180 Cutlets 180 , Fried 181 Rechauffe 179 " , Roman 180 " , Spanish Fricassee 178 Chocolate Crisps 388 Chowder, New England Fish 159 Citron, Dried, for cakes, mincemeat and confec- tions 301 Citron-Melon, Baked, or Sauce 302 Citron-Melon Chips ..... 303 " Preserved . . 302 Cocoanut Blancmange . . . 257 Codfish, Creamed 157 , Creamed Salt 165 " , Mexican 154 Puff 156 " , Salpicon of 156 Coffee Cakes 79 " , Just How to Make 406 Coffee, Just How to Buy and Make 399 Coffee Souffle 252 " Squares 389 Cookies Buttermilk 388 Date 387 Scotch 382 S6ft Molasses . . . 392 Sugar 392 Corn Cakes to Serve with Meat 336 Corn Fritters, Belgian .... 331 Crab Meat, Flaked, in the Chafing Dish 162 Crab Rabbit 162 Crabs and Shrimps, Span- ish Style 162 TITLE PAGE Cranberry Relish 231 Cream Scones 90 Crispettes 379 Croquettes, Celery 330 , Shad Roe 165 Cucumber Catsup (Un- cooked) 351 Currants, Spiced 352 Dandelions with Bacon. . . . 268 Desserts 237 Desserts, Just How to Make 239 Devil's Food Pudding .... 385 Dinner, What to Serve for 13 Dressing, Chiffonade 276 , Chili 276 , Mayonnaise .... 275 , Roquefort Cheese 277 Egg, An English 136 " , A New Deviled 131 Eggplant, Stuffed 335 Eggs 123 a la Golden Rod. . . . 136 and Cheese Cream.. 133 au Gratin 135 , Baked, with Cheese. 135 , Belmont 136 , Bollerino 131 Eggs, Bread, and Bacon in Chafing Dish 134 Eggs, Crisfield, Scrambled. 134 Eggs, Deviled, a la Fro- mage 131 Eggs, Ham and Spanish. . . 132 , Hamburg 132 in Baked Potatoes.. 139 , Just How to Cook.. 128 , How to Preserve. 125 , Piquant Scrambled.. 135 Eggs, Poached, in Milk or Cream 133 Eggs, Poached, with Creamed Celery 132 Eggs, Scotch 134 Eggs, Whole, with Smoked Beef 133 English Cottage Pie 218 INDEX 413 TITLE PAGE Escallop of Green Corn... 334 Filling for Mary's Cake. .. 386 Fish 145 ' , Just How to Cook. . . 147 " , Sauted 153 " Stew 159 Frappe, Chocolate or Coffee 365 " , Cider 366 " , Coffee 365 " , Fruit Juice 365 Frappe, Orange and Grape Juice 366 Frappe, Tea 364 Frappes 363 Frozen Custard, Dolly Madison's 369 Frozen Desserts, Just How to Make 359 Fruit Bars 382 Fruit Preserves (Apples, Pears, and Plums) 309 Gems, Cream Rye 88 German Luncheon Dish . . . 229 Gingerbread, Buttermilk . . 385 , Chocolate . . . 384 Gingersnaps 383 Good Cooking 3 Goose, Roast i?9 Gooseberries, Honeyed . . . 308 Gooseberry Amber 260 Graham Crisps 82 " Gems 90 Torte 393 Granite, Banana 366 Granites Made with a Syrup 366 Grape Conserve 306 353 Juice Souffle 258 " Marmalade 307 Grapefruit Cocktails 255 Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower 332 Green Tomatoes and Pep- per Relish 348 Halibut, Baked 154 TITLE PAGE Halibut, Baked, Spanish Style 156 Halibut in Lemon Sauce. . 153 Ham, Baked 227 - , Baked, Sliced 226 , Kentucky 225 , Southern 226 Timbales 227 Trifle 228 Hamburg Sponge 254 Hash in Disguise 217 Hollandaise, Mock 164 Hominy, Baked 324 Hulled Corn 335 Ice Cream, Coffee 367 Ice Cream, Dolly Madi- son's 369 Italian Polenta 325 Ivory Cream 252 Jam, Green Gage 307 " , Pear and Cranberry. 308 ' , and Peach .... 308 Jellied Oatmeal 257 Jellies and Preserves, Just How to Make 297 Jelly Barberry 304 Crab Apple 303 Green Grape Mint . . 305 Orange 300 Pineapple 300 Pink Grape 304 Purple Grape 305 Quince 304 Rhubarb 299 Rhubarb 304 Johnnycake, Apple 85 Kidney, Deviled 229 Lamb Souffle 221 " Timbales 2-21 Lemon Sticks 241 Lentil and Mushroom Cut- lets 321 Lentils, Baked 320 " , Baked, and Cheese 322 INDEX TITLE PAGE Liver with Bechamel Sauce 228 Loaf, Roast Nut and Bar- ley 323 Luncheon, What to Serve for j-. . . 12 Macaroni Savory in Chaf- ing Dish 325 Mackerel, Baked Salt .... 155 " , Molded 159 Maple Cup Custard 258 Marshmallow Filling 384 Loaf 255 Meat 185 Meat Balls with Horse- radish Sauce 220 Meat Loaf with Hard Cooked Eggs 216 Meats, Just How to Buy.. 187 , Just How to Cas- serole 209 Meats, Just How to Cook. 214 1 , Just How to Roast 200 " , Moderately Quick Cooking 195 Meats, Quick Cooking .... 195 " , Ready Cooked and Market By-Products .... 199 Meats, Slow Cooking 196 Menus, Just How to Plan. 9 " , Autumn 41 , Spring 14 , Summer 32 " , Winter 56 Mexican Delight 114 Mincemeat without Meat. . 240 Mint Chicken Cream 176 Mocha Frosting 386 Mock Beef a la Mode 331 Duck 219 " Pork 333 Mousse Apricot 253 " Ginger 363 Mint Biscuit 362 Pineapple 363 Walnut 362 Muffin, Entire Wheat or Graham 83 Muffin, Raised 84 TITLE PAGE Mushrooms Baked under Glass 326 Mutton, Roast Leg of 220 Noodle and Ham Pudding 227 Oatmeal Drops 381 Okra 332 Omelet Bacon and Potato 139 Cereal 137 Lattard 138 Potato 139 Rice 137 Ripe Olive 140 Spinach 139 Onions and Cheese 323 Orange Bombe Glace 367 Orange Puffs, Orange Sauce 389 Orange Surprise 260 Orange and Grapefruit Cup 255 Oysters, Broiled, a la Fran- gaise 160 Oysters, Scalloped 161 Pancakes, Entire Wheat. .. 84 Parfait, Coffee 362 , Lemon 361 , Marmalade 368 " , Marshmallow . . . 368 Parker House Rolls 80 Pastry, Choux 390 Peach Melba 254 Peaches, Spiced 310 , Sweet Pickled . . . 309 Peanut Butter Pinwheels. . 88 Pear Condet 258 Pears with Ginger 305 Peas 319 Peas, French, Normandy Style 326 Peas, Mint 331 Pepper Hash 350 Persian " Piloh " 101 Peter Pans 380 Philadelphia Scrapple .... 225 Pickle, Mixed Mustard 350 INDEX 415 TITLE PAGE Pickle, Ripe Tomato Sweet 351 Pickles, East Indian 348 Pickles, Green Tomatoes Sweet 349 Pickles, Just How to Make 343 Pickles, Tiny Cucumbers or Gherkin 347 Pie A Dixie Potato 292 Apple 239 Butterscotch 242 Cream 243 Date 242 Mock Cherry 240 Pumpkin 242 Sour Cream, No. 2. . . 243 Transparent 241 Pineapple Preserved with- out Cooking 306 Pineapple Turnover 243 Planked Lake Superior White Fish 164 Plum Butter 307 " Conserve 307 Plums, Euchred, and Pears 309 Pork Tenderloins, Parisian, in the Chafing Dish .... 225 Potato Chowder 292 Puff 290 " Puffs 290 Potatoes, Anna 288 , Apples and Sweet 293 , Baked 287 , Boiled 286 , Browned Sweet . 293 , Chantilly 289 , French Fried . . . 287 , Fried, with Span- ish Sauce 291 Potatoes, Just How to Cook 285 Potatoes, Mashed White, and Turnips 291 Potatoes, Mint 291 , Molded 290 , Nut-filjed 289 , Rissolees 200 , Savory 287 , Stuffed . . . 288 TITLE PAGE Potatoes, Stuffed, with Cheese 289 Potatoes, and Other Vege- tables 281 Pot Roast of Beef, Just How'to Cook 205 Pot Roast, Epicurean .... 208 " , Left-Over 207 Poultry 171 Poultry, Just How to Buy and Cook 173 Princess Cream 254 Prune Tapioca 253 Prunes, Jellied 259 Pudding, Apple and Bread Crumb 246 Pudding, Baked Indian and Apple 247 Pudding Bread 244 Brown Sugar . . . 247 Caramel Bread . . 246 Pudding and Apple 105 Pudding Caramelized Rice Corn 323 Frozen Rice .... 106 Lemon 248 Lemon Bread . . . 248 Maple Tapioca. . 249 Persimmon 250 Rhubarb 244 Steamed Date . . 243 Suet 246 Puree Jackson 114 " of Tomato 118 Ragga Muffin 82 Raspberry Jelly 260 Red Cabbage 332 Rhubarb Relish (for meat course) 310 R ce 95 , Baked 101 Boiled Carolina .... 102 , Boiled Japanese . . . 100 , Carrotina '104 Croquettes 107 Cups 104 , Hindu Vegetable .... 102 , Just How to Cook ... 96 416 INDEX TITLE PAGE Rice, Mexican 100 " , Steamed 99 . " , Vegetarian 101 " and Quinces, Iced Compete of 106 Rice and Sausage, Baked. . 103 with Tomato and Cheese 329 Rolls, Raised Split 83 Rough Robin 86 Royal Cream 256 Salad, Beet and Pepper . . . 270 ; , Cabbage 271 '' , Cherry 273 : , Cleveland 271 , Crab Meat 274 1 , Cucumber Jelly .... 269 , Grape 273 1 , Hawaiian 272 1 , Jellied Chicken and Egg 267 Salad, Okra 270 ' , Oyster 275 , Pineapple 272 , Pond Lily 274 , Potato and Tomato. 269 , Red Pepper 269 1 , Red and White Cur- rant and Raspberry 274 Salad, Roast Beef 268 ' , Salmon 158 , Salmon Jelly 157 1 , Sardine 275 , Spinach 268 . Stuffed Egg 267 , Tomato Jelly 270 ; , Waldorf 271 Salads 265 Sally Lunn 82 Sally Lunns 89 Salmon, Parisian 158 , Planked, with Po- tato Balls 155 Salmon Shells 157 Sandwiches, Jellied Chicken 178 , Roquefort . . . 277 Sauce, Almond 246 " , Chili 351 TITLE PAGE Sauce, Creamy 251 Currant Mint 231 Drawn Butter 163 ; Foamy Pudding . . . 250 ' Hollandaise 163 Horseradish 231 Lobster 163 Maple Hard 251 Marshmallow 368 Mexican 217 Nut Cream 250 Orange 390 Ripe Olive 140 White Mushroom . . 181 for Suet Pudding . . 246 Sausage Bundles 228 Sherbert, Mint Fruit 369 Short Bread, Rich 381 Shrimps, Savory, in Chafing Dish 161 Sillabub 251 Souffle Tin, To Prepare a 248 Soup Black Bean 330 ' Crab, a la Maryland 117 ' Cream of Celery .... 119 ' Cream of Corn 119 " Cream of Fish 160 " Cream of Lettuce, .. 116 " Cream of Rice 103 ' Creole 115 ' East Indian 105 Lentil and Tomato. 117 ' Mock Oyster 118 Mushroom 113 Southern Tomato ... 116 ' Spanish 115 Swedish Fish 117 White 115 Soups in Spaghetti 325 Spare-ribs stuffed with ap- ples and prunes 224 Spider Corn Cake 91 Spinach 318 Squash, Steamed in Shell . 335 , Summer 327 Steak, Flank, with Onions. 216 : , Swiss 215 Stock, Vegetable 114 INDEX 417 TITLE PAGE Strawberry Charlotte 259 Compote 259 Shortcake, Grandmother's 245 Stuffed Green Peppers (or Mangoes) 349 Stuffing i?9 Summer Hot Pot 334 Supper, What to Serve for 14 Sweetbreads, Masked .... 229 Sweet Potatoes, Scalloped . 292 Thanksgiving Brambles . . . 241 Tomato Catsup (uncooked) 350 " Curry 328 Rabbit 329 " Sweets, yellow egg 352 Tomatoes a la Tom 328 Tomatoes, Smothered 328 Tongue, Braised 231 TITLE PAGE Turkey, Roast, Chestnut Stuffing 177 Turkey, Wild 175 Veal, Casseroled 212 " , Bavarian, Chops . . . 222 , Creamed 223 Cutlet, Baked 222 Dandy 223 Loaf 224 Paprika 223 , Sour Cream Gravy. 221 Vegetables, Just How to Cook 317 Wafers, Chocolate Nut 392 Waffles, Rice, with Maple Syrup 249 Waffles, Sweet Potato 293 Watermelon Rind, P r e - served 352