CAPTAIN M'CLELLAN'S ENCOUNTER WITH A PANTHER. p. 110. forge Clinton FRO:! to UKFOKE ANTIETAM. NEW YORK: $. $tt0art}, WO, GEORGE BKINTON McCiELLAir, FROM CADET TO MAJOR-GENERAL A BIOGRAPHY. Bj MAKKIISIFIELD ADDEY. NEW YORK: JAMES G. GREGORY, 540, BROADWAY. MDCCCLXIV. . \ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 13C4, BY JAMES G. GEEGOEY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for tho Southern District of New York. C. A. ALVOBD, BTF.REOTYPKK AND PRINTKR. Bancroft Ubrwy PEEFAOE. THE author of this Biography of one of the most popular mil- itary commanders in the present century, is indebted for part of the information it contains to sources heretofore inaccessible. Knowledge concerning its subject has been obtained from those who played with him in boyhood; studied with him at West Point; travelled with him in the previously unexplored Indian Territory, among the mountain passes on the Pacific coast, and through the Kingdoms and Empires of the Old "World ; and from officers who fought by his side on the blood-stained fields of Virginia and Maryland, and were his faithful messengers amid the battle's din. A degree of accuracy has thus been secured which, it is believed, will be found not the least merit of this volume. In describing the character of General McClellan, the author has preferred introducing the opinions of others to giving his own especially in reference to his abilities as a commander. It is an admitted fact, that.any praise bestowed upon a man by an enemy is certain to be candid. With this view he has quoted freely from those journals, which now, for political reasons, seek to depreciate the acts they formerly extolled, either editorially, or through the medium of their authorized correspondents at the seat of war. These opinions he is glad to reproduce to the public, so that it may judge what little reliance can be placed upon the current tirades of a partisan press. It is a common practice of many of McClellan's political assail- ants in the North to insidiously ask, " How is it that the South- ern leaders always speak well of him?" The answer is easily given, in the words of a foreign officer in the Confederate service, 4 PREFACE. whoso impressions we have had occasion to cite in these pages. It is because "his military qualities command the respect of his opponents /" A soldier who acts strictly in accordance with the well-defined customs of civilized warfare, is certain to win the esteem of Bis adversary. As well might it be asked in the South : " How is it that the Northern people never abuse Lee, or speak contemptuously of ' Stonewall' Jackson ?" It was a favorite maxim with Napoleon that, " In war, the moral is to the physical power as three parts to one." That the great lever, the moral power, was withdrawn from the Army of the Potomac when McClellan was relieved from command, is evi- dent. Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville attest this. The Hon. I. W. Coe, one of the Republican Committee sent by the Legisla- ture of Connecticut, after the battle of Fredericksburg, to care for the dead and wounded soldiers of that State, then wrote : "I have found but one opinion in the army about the merits of gen- erals. The army, almost to a man, are for McClellan, and if you expect the army to conquer peace, you have got to give them a choice." If there is any virtue in Napoleon's maxim, can there be a doubt but that if any man in the United States holds the key to military success, it is General McClellan ? "While this work was passing through the press, the original intent was somewhat changed. At first it was more especially designed for younger readers, which will account for the intro- duction of episodes connected with McClellan's experiences of frontier life ; these, however, are so interesting that the general reader will not regret their presence. NEW YORK, October 1st, 1864. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 11 I. BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE 19 Ancestry A chivalric family McClellan's grandfather His parentage Birth and education Passion for reading The disregarded supper Choice of a profession Nomi- nated to the Military Academy-^Preliminary examination Distinguished classmates Military instruction Annual encampment Academic instruction " Mac " and his u chum " Paying dearly for his whistle Studies pursued The conduct-roll McClellan's rank in his class, and position on the conduct-roll His name attached to the Army Kegister. II. FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD 31 Aspirations of the West Point Cadets Eeasons which led to the War with Mexico McClellan's First Commis- sionOff to the War The First Victory On the March Tampico Scott in command McClellan transferred to the Army of Invasion Siege of Vera Cruz Hard work Subli- mity of the Bombardment The road to the Interior The heights of Cerro Gordo Their capture First meeting of Scott and McClellan Advance to Puebla McClellan in the Van Halt of the Army Illustration of McClellan's pluck Overtures of Peace. III. UPON THE PATH OF GLORY 52 On the march again Obstacles to overcome A parallel with the past The Valley of Mexico The army approaches the capital McClellan's company constructs a new road Base of operations McClellan fired upon by the enemy, and loses his horse He opens the battle Takes charge of the howitzers Gallant assault of Contreras McClellan makes a reconnoissance The battle of Churubusco McClellan promoted for his brave?y. IT. HONORS WON 68 Armistice Perfidy of the Mexicans The heights of Cha- CONTENTS. :APTEK PAGE pultepec described Grandeur of the scene El Molino del Key and La Casa Mata The enemy deceived Capture of Chapultepec The final struggle for the city Fierce en- counters McClellan's daring fighting on the house-tops McClellan the first to penetrate the heart of the city- Surrender of the capital Mexico Americanized Honors won, by our hero Former friends, now foes. V. ROUGHING IT ON THE RED RIFER 83 Valorous deeds Inscribed on the roll of honor McClellan leaves Mexico Becomes professor and author Ordered to explore the sources of the Eed River His companions The start Arrival at the Red River Panther hunt Rush of water Favorable omen Visit from the Witchitas McClellan traces the hundredth degree of west longitude The Witchita Mountains Gold discovered McClellan names "Mount Webster" Comanche trail How Indians travel Boldness of the Delaware guides Buffalo chase Wolves and Ravens making merry McClellan searches for the Comanches Mode of encampment A few words about beavers Head of the river discovered Bottle buried Ex- cursion to the Canadian River. VI. PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN' RIVER EXPLORED 102 Southward bound "McClellan's Creek" Remarkable mirage Source of the Salt Fork Indian battle-ground Prairie- Dog-Town Immense population Domestic ar- rangements of the animals A surprise McClelland en- counter with a panther Deer-bleat Nauseous water Extreme thirst Sickness Value of iced drinks Head of the river Magnificent scenery Bears Panther shot Homeward journey Catching a Tartar "Mount Scott" Romantic valley Deserted Indian villages Beauty of their position Waco and Witchita villages False rumors of the massacre of McClellan and his companionsBargain- ing for a prisoner Arrival at Fort Arbuckle Return home- McClellan's services warmly acknowledged. VII. COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS 127 Proceeds to Texas Brazos revisited Recollections of the past Galveston The Pirate Lafitte Indianola Re- semblance to a European city Corpus Christi General Taylor's old camping-ground Beauty of the country San Antonio Its mixed population Heroic defence of Travis. Variety of buildings A gushing spring Luxurious bathing An ungrateful protege Summoned to Washing- ton. CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER PAQK VIII. PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST 133 The Golden State Difficulties in reaching it Pacific railroad explorations McClellan in charge of the North- western Survey His orders Arrives on the Pacific coast His command The expedition in motion The Cascade range The summit reached Halt at Chequoss Magni- ficent Alpine scene Curious lake Subterranean passage The mouse-wife The Blip Tilicum The man with two wives Giants and dwarfs Indians met by the way The Tahk prairie and the story of its creation Atahnam Mis- sion Depot-camp at Wenass Detached expeditions Re- moval of the camp to Ketetas Gold discovered Takima village Indian fortifications. IX. PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST CONTINUED . 152 The journey resumed Magnificent panoramic scene Two wicked women, and what became of them Indian sculpture Valley of the Columbia Forts Okinakane and Colville Arrival of Governor Stevens Jesuit* mission Strange Indian conceptions Snow storm Chemakane mission The great plain Never-freezing lake Whitman's mission "Wallah- Wallah Close of the expedition McClellan sent on a new exploration Insurmountable difficulties Great depth of snow Intense cold Harbor surveys Official appreciation of McClellau's abilities. X. INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS 167 Importance of Indian friendship The Klikatats Indian Yankees A cherished calendar The Yakimas and their chiefs False reports A "talk" with Skloo Council with Kam-ai-ya-kan Ow-hai and his band Elegance of Indian dress The Pisquonses An aspirant for regal honors- Election of a chief Indian horse-racfc Disposal of the dead Curious genealogical tree Garry, the Spokane chief An Indian welcome Indian religious worship Garry's hospitality McClellan punishes his proposed assassin Pu- pu-mux-mux, and how he defied the Cayuses Interesting relic. XL IN THE WEST INDIES 185 Victories of peace Scientific operations of Army officers Secret expedition to the West IndiesIts object Selec- tion of a harbor Description of the place chosen Corrobo- rative opinion Historic associations Visit of Columbus- First encounter with the Indians in America Jack Banister and his bold buccaneers Inquiry into the Ameri- can railway system McCldlan's report thereon. 8 CONTENTS. CHAPTEB PAGE XII. ON DUTY IN EUROPE 195 The Crimean campaign Improvements in the art of war Military Commission Instructions McClelland corre- spondenceStart from Boston Cordial reception iu Lon- don and cool treatment in Paris Disappointment Arrival in Berlin Prussian politeness Warsaw Obstacles in the way St. Petersburg Presented to the Czar Military re- view Second disappointment Eeturn to Prussia Pro- ceed to the East Constantinople Balaklava More Eng- lish courtesy and French coolness The theatre of war Reception in Austria Italian cities South of France- Tour of the Khine Belgium In France again Eeturn to London Visits of inspection Home. XIII. AMONG RAILROADS 219 Advantages of Foreign Travel McClellan's knowledge of languages His report Its contents Eeports of the other Commissioners McClellan resigns his Commission in the Array Becomes Chief-Engineer and Yice-President of the Illinois Central Eailroad Progress of the Company McClellan's man-iage General Superintendent and*Presi- dent of Ohio and Mississippi Eailroad The War Besigns his offices. XI Y. VICTORIES IN WESTERN VIRGINIA. 227 Cause of the Eebellion Sumter attacked Call to arms The Ohio contingent McClellan appointed Major-General Department of the Ohio The S tates unprepared for war Loyalty of Western Virginia McClellan's proclama- tion to the people and address to his soldiers Eebel camp at Phillippi dispersed Perilous feat of Colonel Lander McClellan takes command in person Patriotic and spirited - address Forward movement Eich Mountain Surrender of Pegram Morris's Division Laurel Hill Eetreat of Garnett Federal Pursuit Difficulties and encounters Carrick's Ford Death of Garnett The brave Georgian A Massachusetts rebel The preacher's prayer A hard day's work Western Virginia cleared of the rebels McClellan thanked by Legislature and Congress Tributes to his Military Genius. XV. ORGANIZING AN ARMY 253 The disaster at Bull Eun Who is to blame ? McClellan placed in command of the Army of the Potomac Is honored by his native city Arrival in Washington Com- mences work in earnest Opinions of McClellan, North and CONTENTS. CHAPTER South Political interferences Order restored Stringent discipline Increased command Observance of the Sab- bathSpeech to the Soldiers Picket firing Unheeded ad- vice Munson's Hill Disaster at Ball's Bluff Scott re- tires McClellan succeeds him The Army organized In- terference with McClellan's operations Council of Gene- rals McClellan's plan approved Manassas evacuated McClellan relieved from chief command of the armies of the Union. XYI. THE PENINSULAR CAMPAIGN 269 Rival plans Operations on the Potomac Address to the troops Forward movement Reduction of command Be- fore Yorktown The place evacuated Williamsburg McClellan on the battle-field The rebels continue their re- treat McClellan thanked by the House of Representatives Re-enforcements required McClellan's prescience Hanover Court-House Fair Oaks McClellan's daring Second day's battle Storm before the conflict Southern opinion Address to the troops. XVII. THE SEVEN DAYS' BATTLES 291 The si ege Stuart's rai 6V- Necessity for re-enforcements The contending armies FIRST DAY ; Oak Grove Nar- row escape SECOND DAY; Beaver- Dam Creek THIRD DAY; Gaines's Mill Council of War FOURTH DAY; Golding's Farm McClellan's dispatch to the Secretary of War The crime of the politicians FIFTH DAY; Allen's Field Savage's Station The Confederates deluded SIXTH DAY: White-Oak-Swamp Bridge Glendale SEVENTH DAY ; Malvern Hill Confederate hopes frus- tratedThe lostes. XVIII. EVACUATION OP THE PENINSULA 311 The Confederates foiled Arrival at Harrison's Landing- Unbounded confidence in the commander His consum- mate generalship Presidential palliatives and promises Address to the soldiers McClellan lays his views before the President New general-in-chief Malvern. Hill re- taken Orders to evacuate the Peninsula McClellan's pro- test Uncourteous treatment The return march Disap- pointment of the troops The deserted encampment Men of straw An apparition "Dan Webster's'' parting salute A kind word for the Army solicited Departure from the Peninsula. 30 CONTENTS. OHAPTEB XIX. ANTIETAM 332 The Army of Virginia and its commander A new phase in military science The saddle a base of operations " My Plan " put into operation It does not succeed About re- enforcements A commander without an army A change McClelland assistance required A constant " friend "-- Favors asked, and granted In command again A wel- come return In Maryland Triumphant entry into Fred- erick South Mountain Harper's Ferry Reconnoitring under difficulties Antietam A refractory General The losses Flight of the enemy. CONCLUDING CHAPTER 347 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE THE BOY'S PASSION FOE STUDY 22 THE LIEUTENANT CAPTURES A MEXICAN 66 THE CAPTAIN'S ENCOUNTER WITH A PANTHER 110 THE CAPTAIN'S AFFAIR WITH AN INDIAN 182 BEFORE ANTIETAM (on Title) 343 THE GENERAL AND THE STANDARD-BEARER. . . 350 GEORGE BRINTON MCLELLAN, FROM CADET TO 'M AJOR-GENER AL. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. rjlHE class which opened in the Military Academy -*- at West Point on the 1st of .July, 1842, comprised a sturdy youth, the junior by five months of any of his fellows, and five years and three months under the age of the eldest ; and who then wanted five months to reach the age nominally prescribed by the regu- lations of the establishment for the admission of cadets, whilst seven months had barely passed over his head since the fifteenth anniversary of his birth. His frame was well knit, hardy, and vigorous ; he was active, and capable of enduring fatigue; full of fun and life, but never allowing his jubilant spirit to overstep the recognized limits of discretion ; and withal of such moderate height, that when he com- menced the manual drill, it was necessary to pro- vide him with a fire-lock lighter than those placed in the hands of his comrades. While at school he had been brilliant and quick in mind, and had displayed such a taste for reading and 12 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. thirst for knowledge, that his friends were doubtless not surprised to find him eventually gain a highly creditable position in the classes of the Academy. His personal qualities, too, were as commendable as his mental. The gentleness of his manner endear- ed him to all .who knew him, his courage won their admiration, and his singleness of heart commanded their respect. Such was, in boyhood, George Brinton McClellan, the future general-in-chief of the military forces of the United States, the favorite commander of the Army of the Potomac. When a cadet at West Point, young McClellan continued the safe course he had pursued while a school-boy in Philadelphia, careful preparation of his mind by solid study, a course which, if not in- terrupted, is certain to be effective. He was not interrupted, and all worked well. In later life, in another sphere of action, he labored to carry out a like system of thorough preparation ; but having had to encounter much interference, the result was con- sequently different. We are informed by one of his cotemporaries in the Military Academy, that whilst there his habits of life were marked by those traits which " characterize an earnest student," and "as well balanced as his subsequent course has proved his life to be ;" we learn from another that "he was conspicuous for his respectful demeanor and rectitude of conduct, always VALOR ILLUSTRATED. 13 displaying proper dignity in the presence of his com- panions;" while a third, who has enjoyed his friend- ship through life, and refers more particularly to the present than the past, speaks of the "noble qualities" of the man, " whom," he says, " I esteem as much as any man can esteem another." A valorous spirit and an innate sense of honor are essentials in a military officer. Young McClellan exhibited these in an early stage of his career, and, as the acts of the man more truly illustrate his character than any remarks- the author could adduce, we may relate a couple of incidents that occurred when he had just entered upon active military life. In later chapters we shall describe the stirring scenes of the Mexican campaign. In one of these it will be found that young McClellan, during the at- tack upon Contreras, conducted Magruder's battery into action, and in the absence of that officer directed the operations of the artillerymen. We will tell the story in the words in which Magruder related it, be- fore the rebellion, to a friend, omitting only the pecu- liar phraseology that misguided man was accustomed to introduce into his conversation: "Sir," said he, " I was away from the battery at the time the action commenced; when I returned I found the lighter guns had been carried to an almost inaccessible po- sition, and were then blazing away at the enemy, who had directed two-and-twenty pieces upon our handful of men. On reaching the guns I discovered 14 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. a young fellow hard at work, handling them as if he had been accustomed to the practice all his life. 4 What officer have I the honor of addressing,' I ask- ed. 'Lieutenant McClellan, of the Engineers,' he promptly replied. I then offered him my hand across one of the guns; he grasped it, and just as our hands, were clasped together, a ball came and un- shipped the gun." Our second incident refers to an event that took place a year later. The brevet honors for distin- guished services in Mexico, although dating from the days on which the actions that called them forth were fought, were not awarded until after the close of the campaign, and the return of the army to the United States. McClellan was, at the time, stationed with his company at West Point. General Scott interested himself to obtain for him a brevet captaincy. When McClellan received the commission he put it in his pocket, and asked Lieutenant G. W. Smith, his senior in the Engineer Company, if he had heard from Wash- ington. Smith replied that he had not. McClellan repeated the question for two or three successive days, and each time received the same reply ; Smith at last adding : " Why should I hear from Washing- ton ?" McClellan gave no reason, but quietly re- turned his commission to the War Department, sta- ting that he must decline to receive it, unless Smith, who deserved the honor equally with himself, was promoted to the same rank. A few days later, the THE COMMANDER. 15 commission was returned to McClellan, and a similar one forwarded to Smith. McClellan has carried with him into manhood the enviable personal qualities that distinguished him whilst a youth and a subaltern. The only variance between the boy of yesterday and the man of to- day, arises from these characteristics becoming more deeply rooted by time, more developed by experi- ence. An officer, who accompanied him through the greater part of his campaigns in the present war, tells us that he possessed a remarkable in- fluence over all who were associated with him ; they could not help but love him; they felt that when with him they were in the presence of one who had their interests at heart. TJn gentlemanly acts were never seen, improper language never heard in his camp. He would never demand from his officers duties impossible to fulfil ; and labors that he found exhausted nature rendered them incapable of per- forming, he himself willingly undertook. On the night the army reached Harrison's Land- ing, after the eventful seven days' battles, McClellan pointed out upon his map, to an aide, the position of a mill to which he desired him to take a brigade. The officer was so wearied from incessant labor, that he found it difficult to concentrate his attention. Night and day he had been in the saddle, and more sleeping than waking had arrived upon the banks of the James. 16 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. " Do you think you can find it ?" was the inquiry. " I don't think I can, General," replied the officer. " Did you not see it as you passed?" " I really did not, General, for I was too worn out to see any thing." The commander again pointed out the spot upon the map, but the officer was still unable to rivet his attention upon it. McClellan looked in his face and saw he was overcome by fatigue. He used no hrrsh expressions, as many, placed in a similar position, would have done, but mildly remarked : " I will go myself." " No, General, you shall not," promptly replied the aide, nerved by the exhibition of kindness display- ed. A brother officer was then called to his assist- ance, and, between the two, they were enabled to un- derstand the General's instructions, and carry out his desire. But it was not alone to the officers who were in close attendance upon him, that McClellan exhibited such acts of kindness. His men claimed an equal share of his attention, and they received it. Here is an instance. During the retreat from the vicinity of Richmond, a person who had rendered most valuable service to the Union cause, and who had been the means of gathering much information in the camp of the enemy, was present with the troops. Mc- Clellan, aware of this, dispatched an aide to him, with the desire that he would resort to a place of safety, AN ACT OP KINDNESS. 1? as in the event of capture, in consequence of his be- ing a marked man, he would be hardly dealt with. Though he did not follow the advice given, he nev- ertheless escaped the enemy's clutches. The thought- fulness, however, which dictated the advice, was not forgotten by him, for, two years afterwards, meeting an officer of the General's staff in Washington, he expressed his gratitude to the latter for the act of kindness he had experienced. Here we find a man weighed down with anxiety and care for the safety of an army placed in a perilous position, not regard- less of the welfare of one of its humble member?, and desirous of snatching him from an ignominious death, to which, in the event of his capture, his calling would most assuredly have consigned him. Wherever McClellan went, a warm feeling was created amongst his soldiers that often found expres- sion in marks of enthusiasm. A cheerful smile lit up their faces the moment they saw him ; their wearied frames were invigorated with renewed strength; and they recognized his presence as an omen of safety. " There goes George B., now we are all right," they would say to one another. " George B.," was a pet name of the soldiers when they spoke to each other of their commander. Officers and men loved him alike, but neither the one nor the other ever attempted to approach him with familiarity, or scarcely ever spoke to him un- less he first addressed them. He commanded not 18 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. only their love but their respect. If a soldier could but touch his horse, he felt it a pleasure; and if, whilst the general was speaking to him, he could manage to stroke the horse's neck, he was an object of envy to his comrades. The men had implicit con- fidence in whatever he said. " Well, General, if you say so, it's all right," was their frequent reply. " Boys, I know you're tired, but keep at it an hour longer, and then you shall have your coffee," Mc- Clellan would often say to some working party, or to some men near the close of a weary march. " Well, General, if you say so, it's all right." The sick and the wounded ever claimed his especial attention. He soothed their sufferings with his condolences, and spoke to them so affectionately that they felt they were rather in the presence of a kind relative than in that of a military leader. It is impossible for the reader to study the story of McClellan's career whilst in command of the Army of the Potomac, without the conviction that this cen- tury has produced but one commander who so effec- tually won the hearts of his soldiers, and that man was the Corsican whom the people of France named the "Little Corporal," and in course of time placed at the head of their Republic. Perchance the compari- son between the "Little Corporal," of the French army, and "Little Mac," of the Army of the Potomac, may become more complete than it is at present. CHAPTER I. BOYHOOD -AND CADET LIFE. Ancestry A chivalric family McCleflan's grandfather His pa- rentage Birth and education Passion for reading The dis- regarded supper Choice of a profession Nominated to the Military Academy Preliminary examination Distinguished classmates Military instruction Annual encampment Aca- demic instruction "Mac" and his "chum" Paying dearly for his whistle Studies pursued The conduct-roll McClel- lan's rank in his class, and position on the conduct-roll His name attached to the Army Kegister. A MONG the chivalric names which stand bla- -**- zoned on the muster-roll of Scotland's heroes, that of McClellan is far from being the least promi- nent. The McClellans of Kirkcudbright and Bombie an ancient and illustrious Galloway family were allied to the renowned "Knights of Lochinvar." Sir Robert McClellan was created a Scotch Peer by Charles I., under the title of Lord Kirkcudbright, and the old family mansion lies crumbling to dust near the burg of that name, and on the banks of the river Dee. The title became extinct on the death of the last peer, in 1832, without male issue. A valor- ous scion of the house fell at Flodden. McClellan is a name associated in Scotia's history with every thing that is noble, patriotic, and darrng, and stories of the 20 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. brave deeds of those who bore it still linger in the legendary lore of the district in which they dwelt. From this stock comes the subject of our memoir. His grandfather emigrated to this country, along with two brothers, in the middle of the last century, and settled in Connecticut. During the youth of his grandson he resided at Woodstock, of which place he was a prominent citizen. He was in appearance not unlike General Jackson, used to adopt " Old Hickory's" style of dress, and, like to him, wore his hair long, brushed back, and tied up behind in a queue. Mr. James McClellan followed the avocation of a farmer ; was full of energy and public spirit ; and moreover so esteemed by his fellow-townsmen, that his assistance was invariably required in the arrange- ment of local affairs. He could not bear to see any thing done in a tardy or bungling manner. When a hog had to be killed, he would take the knife and give the fatal stroke himself, so that he could instruct his people in the knowledge of the readiest way of depriving the animal of life with the least possible pain to the sufferer. To his expertness in this ope- ration his neighbors were accustomed to attribute the great surgical talents evinced by his son. Mr. James McClellan's son, George, graduated at Yale College, studied medicine and surgery, and then established himself as a physician at Philadelphia, where he became distinguished in his profession, and was instrumental in instituting Jefferson Medical BIETH AND EDUCATION. 21 College. He died in May, 1 846, leaving a widow, who still survives. His eldest son, Dr. John H. B. Mc- Clellan, is now a physician in the same city, his second forms the subject of this work, and his youngest, Captain Arthur McClellan, was formerly attached to the staff of his brother, then of General Sedgwick, and upon the death of the latter, appointed to that of his successor, General Wright. Captain Mc- Clellan partakes in a great degree of the military ardor of his brother, proving that the blood of the Scottish warriors still remains in the family. He has had several horses killed under him since the crossing of the Rapid an, from which it must be presumed he does not fear entering within range of the enemy's rifles. Two daughters are also at present living. GEORGE BKINTON MCCLELLAN was born at Phila- delphia on the 3d of December, 1 826. He was named after both his father and his mother the maiden name of the latter having been Elizabeth Brinton. His education was commenced in the school of Mr. S. C. Walker, under whose charge he remained four years, and was then transferred to a German teacher, with whom he commenced the study of the classical languages. He next entered the preparatory school of the University of Pennsylvania, and, at the age of thirteen, joined the classes of the College, in which he remained two years. In the whole of these establish- ments he attained, a high rank in the classes to 22 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. which he belonged, and his amiable disposition caused him ever to be a great favorite with classmates. George would at times, during his vacations, visit his grandfather at Woodstock, where he had access to books. These were ever attractive to him, and their fascinations would occasionally cost him a supper. His grandfather was very exacting of punctuality at meals, and could not bear that much time should be devoted to them. He was the first to sit down at table, invariably doing so the moment the appointed hour arrived, and went to work with an energy that would tend to the belief he considered his life de- pended more upon the speed with which he could ge.t through his meal, than upon a proper attention to the laws of digestion. When supper-time arrived, our young friend fre- quently had his thoughts buried in the contents of some interesting book. " George, supper is ready," he would hear called. The charms of the volume, however, would soon cause him to forget the sum- mons. He would perhaps be called a second time, if the old gentleman did not prevent it by remarking, " If that boy won't come to supper he must go, with- out." But evenasecond summons would sometimes fail to draw him away from his reading. It would only cause him to rise from his seat ; then, taking hold of the back of the chair, he would continue to pore over his book, again speedily forgetful of the nieal which awaited him. When all else had finished THE BOY M'CLELLAN'S PASSION FOR STUDY. CHOICE OF A PROFESSION. 23 he would be found in this position, with his mind riveted upon the alluring volume. When the proper time arrived for choosing a pro- fession, young McClellan's taste and temperament inclined him to select the military art, and to desire admission into the Academy at West Point. He was favored with the requisite nomination by the Hon. Joseph R. Ingersoll, at the time member of Congress for the city of Philadelphia. Though the classes do not commence till July 1st, the young men who have been fortunate in obtaining appointments are required to report in person to the Superintendent at West Point between the 1st and 20th of the previous month, unless prevented by sickness, in which case they can be admitted on a later day. But the nomination by the member of Congress, and the appearance within the precincts of the Academy, do not permit the applicant to par- take of its advantages, unless he is capable of passing preliminary mental and rigid medical examinations. He must be able to read and write well, and perform with facility and accuracy the various operations of the four ground rules of arithmetic, of reduction, of simple and compound proportion, and of vulgar and decimal fractions. Failing in a full compliance with the mental requisites, or being subject to any disorder, deformity, or infirmity, that would render him unfit for military service, he is rejected. The examination of the candidates commences on 24 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. the 21st of June, and is conducted in the presence of the whole Academic Board. It is strict, but by no means a fearful ordeal, from the few require- ments demanded; and usually the number rejected does not exceed half a dozen. Young McClellan's attainments, upon entering West Point, were of course sufficient to enable him to pass this ordeal without difficulty. He was con- sequently admitted, and ranked from the 1st day of July as a member of the lowest or fourth class. In this class were many whose names, during the past three eventful years, have been placed promi- nently before the world, and the records of whose deeds have filled no small space in the chronicles of the day. Prominent among them stands the name of that remarkable man, Thomas Jonathan Jackson, more generally known by his nom de guerre of " Stonewall" Jackson, to whose intense zeal and chivalric spirit the people of the North have not declined to pay fitting homage, though they must ever regret the mistaken sense of duty which induced him to espouse a rebellious cause. But the class, as viewed to-day, was essentially a loyal one, for near its head stood McClellau, and not far from him the brave Reno, who fell valiantly fighting under the old flag at South Mountain ; and such names, too, as Foster, Couch, Seymour, Sturgis, and Stoneman, are found upon its list. At its head was seen Charles S. Stewart, now a Major of Engi THE CLASSES. 25 neers ; and the Historian of West Point, Captain Ed- ward C. Boynton, filled no unenviable position in its ranks. The rebel General A. P. Hill started with the class, but in the third year was turned back for deficiency in his studies. The classes of cadets are numerically arranged into the First, Second, Third, and Fourth classes, corre- sponding to the Senior, Junior, Sophomore, and Freshman classes of other collegiate institutions. There is so much routine and disciplinary work to pass through in a course of study at a military academy, that the life of the cadet is generally a quiet one, especially when compared with that ex- perienced in the higher educational institutions of civil life. The Academy at West Point is essentially a national one, and as some of the most celebrated men of the day have graduated there, the reader will be interested with an insight into its proceedings, espe- cially as it will give some idea of the manner in which young McClellan spent the four years before he crossed the threshold of manhood.* For the purposes of Military instruction, the cadets, every year, after the close of the June exami- nation, leave the barracks, and are encamped in tents upon the plain during the months of July and Au- gust, under all the regulations, discipline, and police * For particulars of the Military Academy, we are indebted to Captain Boyn ton's interesting "History of West Point." 2 26 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. of an army in the field. Their organization varies while undergoing instruction in the particular arms of the service, but the permanent organization is that of a battalion of infantry, composed of four companies. In these companies, the four Academic classes are indiscriminately mixed. Throughout the whole year, when the weather permits, guard-mounting at half-past seven A. M., and evening dress parade at sunset, accompanied by the band, are imposing and pleasant spectacles which break the monotony of cadet life. For the purpose of Academic instruction, the cadets break up the encampment at the end of Au- gust, and return to barracks, where the remaining nine months of the year are passed in prosecuting their studies in their respective classes. This period is divided into two terms : the first extending from September 1st to January 2d, when the semi-annual examination commences ; the second follows the close of the latter, and terminates May 31st. It is not customary in the Academy for a cadet to form a close intimacy with a brother student, or have a "chum," as is the case at college. Young McClellan, or " Mac," as he was called by his com- panions, was an exception to this rule, for he asso- ciated with and was much attached to a classmate, who some years ago had the misfortune to meet with a watery grave. " Mac" was often to be seen completely enveloped THE STUDIES PURSUED. 27 in thought, totally unconscious of all that was passing around. During the period of encampment, he would frequently stand at the door of his tent, loudly whist- ling some favorite air, and thus, without at the time being aware of it, commit a breach of the disciplinary code of the institution, and render himself liable to a penalty. He, consequently, had many times to " pay dearly for his whistle." His mind, however, would be far away from any idea of doing wrong, and busily occupied solving some mathematical pro- blem, or soaring in the realms of physical science. The studies pursued at the Academy are for the most part scientific. General literature, the lan- guages, except French and Spanish, and classical studies, form no part of the course. It is the dis- tinctive -feature in the programme at the Military Academy to study but few subjects comparatively, and to learn those well. The conduct-roll is the main-spring to the whole system of discipline. It is compiled from a record of all the irregularities and violations of the code established for the government of the cadet. An arbitrary number is assigned to conduct, and the* relative proficiency of the student combined there- with, in determining his final graduating class rank. Thorough knowledge of the course of study alone, therefore, does not secure the cadet the highest rank. In the annual examination in June, at the termina- tion of young McClellan's first year of study, he 28 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. gained the third place in his class in order of gene- ral merit, ranking in order of merit in the respective studies, third in mathematics and fifth in French. In his second annual examination, he retained the third place in the class, and was ranked in the re- spective studies, first in mathematics, sixth in French, twentieth in drawing, and sixth in English grammar and geography. At the close of the third year, he exchanged pla- ces with John G. Foster, the present General of that name, who had occupied the fourth rank in the preceding year ; and stood in the respective studies, second in natural and experimental philosophy, sec- ond in chemistry, and twelfth in drawing. In his fourth or graduating year, McClellan more than regained the position he had lost in the previous annual examination, and attained the second rank in the class ; whilst in the respective studies, he was first in mineralogy and geology, second in engi- neering and the science of war, second in ethics, second in artillery, and third in infantry tactics. It is worthy of notice, that of the first fifteen members of the class, the next in age was a year and nine months, and the eldest, three years and ten months his senior. It was the largest graduating class that ever left the Academy, and comprised fifty-nine mem- bers. Whilst undergoing the ordeal of examination, it was remarked that of the five who gained the highest positions, McClellan was the only one who did THE CONDUCT-ROLL. 29 not exhibit signs of mental exertion. He appeared to have confidence in his own ability to pass his exami- nation with honor, and that confidence was not mis- placed. The conduct-roll of each year contains the names of all the cadets then in the Academy, arranged in numerical order, in accordance with the number of de- merits standing opposite their names. In the four years McClellan was in the institution, the numbers of cadets whose names were placed in this roll were respectively 223, 211, 204, and 213 ; the lowest num- ber of demerits in each of the four years 0, and the highest respectively 199, 280, 200, and 200. McClellan's name did not stand so high upon this roll as it did in his class, being the 137th the first year, with 51 demerits ; the 52d the second year, with 25 demerits; the 102d the third year, with 60 de- merits ; and the 62d the fourth year, with 22 demerits. As, in accordance with the regulations of the Acade- my, the demerits influence the awarding of a cadet's position in his class, we have here an index to the rea- son why McClellan lost a point at the close of his third year. The number, too, of his demerits "in the fourth, although less than in any previous year, pre- vented his obtaining the first rank in his class, which his talents commanded and would have gained for him, if his position on the conduct-roll had not stood in the way. But it must, in justice to him, be re- marked, that his offences against the disciplinary code 30 BOYHOOD AND CADET LIFE. were not of a grave nature ; they were invariably the result of his mind being occupied with the considera- tion of some branch of study, to the neglect of guard- ing against breaches of military etiquette, or minor in- fractions of the code of discipline, such as the ab- sence of a button from his apparel, the failure of putting in an appearance when the muster-roll was called, or the whistling at the door of his tent, to which we have alluded. The cadet who is deficient in mental power will, on the contrary, be very care- ful to avoid every infraction of the code, as it is only by obtaining a good place on the conduct-roll that he is enabled to save himself or his friends from disappointment, or secure such a standing as fore- shadows his future position in the army. The names of the cadets who have most distinguish- ed themselves in the annual examination, not exceed- ing five in each class, are returned to the War De- partment, for the purpose of being attached to the next army register. This is done with a view to aid in elevating the system of discipline, and create a spirit of emulation among the cadets, in the hope that it faay lead to the nation finding in the Academy, when occasion requires, " the skill to conduct valor to victory." McClellan won the honor of having his name attached to this list on each of the four years he was a student at West Point. CHAPTER H. FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. Aspirations of the West Point Cadets Reasons which led to the War with Mexico McClellan's First Commission Off to the War The first Victory On the March Tampicd Scott in command McClellan transferred to the Army of Invasion Siege of Yera Cruz Hard work Sublimity of the Bombard- ment The road to the Interior The heights of Cerro Gordo Their capture First meeting of Scott and McClellan Ad- vance to Puebla McClellan in the Van Halt of the Army Illustration of McClellan's pluck Overtures of Peace. rpOWARD the close of young McClellan's cadet- -*- career at West Point, the dispute with Mexico, which had grown out of the annexation of Texas to the United States, culminated in hostilities, and the young soldier saw before him a sphere of action which a long peace had denied to the graduates of more than thirty previous years. In an academy specially devoted to instruction in the art of war, it cannot be wondered that the stu- dents daily canvassed the progress of the campaign, and, in their imaginations, traced for themselves paths of glory on the rugged field of strife. They read with avidity the war news which daily ap- peared in the columns of the press ; they consulted the various works which depicted the country wherein, it was more than probable, American arms 32 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. would be called upon to avenge the insult which had been offered to American honor; and they mapped out for themselves the road upon which the American banner would be carried triumphantly to the proud capital of the land, that, ages ago, Cortez had won for the Spaniard, from the Aztec and the Indian. A country is never warranted in entering upon war, unless it is thoroughly convinced that it has justice and right upon its side. The United States had, during a long peace, prospered to a greater degree than, historic records tell us, it had been the good fortune of any other nation during an equal number of years. They sought by every honorable means to avert the necessity of appealing to the sword, as the arbitrator of the dispute into which they had been drawn. All their endeavors, however, were in vain, and war alone remained the means of settlement. The reasons which insti- gated this conflict with the Mexicans, are briefly given by President Polk, in his message to Con- gress, in December, 1847: "The wanton violation of the rights of persons and property of our citizens committed by Mexico, her repeated acts of bad faith, through a long series of years, and her dis- regard of solemn treaties, stipulating for indemnity to our injured citizens, not only constituted ample cause of war on our part, but were of such aggra- vated character, as would have justified us before FIRST COMMISSION. 33 the whole world, in resorting to this extreme remedy." In the middle of the month before that in which McClellan graduated, Congress authorized the for- mation of a company of " Engineer Soldiers, or Sappers, Miners, and Pontoniers." A company of this nature had, for many years, been proposed without effect, as a proper adjunct to the array in time of peace ; but the exigencies of the war now imperatively demanded its immediate formation. This company was to form part of the Corps of Engineers, and the duties which were to devolve upon its members were opening roads, constructing and repairing fortifications, throwing up intrench- ments, preparing shelter for artillery and infantry when engaged in siege operations, and bridging rivers by pontoons and otherwise for the passage of an army. Such duties not only demand the pos- session of a strong physique, but of a high mental culture not essential in other branches of the army. As McClellan possessed both these requisites, he was naturally considered an eligible person to receive an appointment to a command in the new company. The head-quarters were established at West Point, and the ranks were soon filled by intelligent men, mostly mechanics, possessing the necessary physical qualities. Young McClellan, who received the ap- pointment of brevet second lieutenant on July 1st, 1846, was one of the officers placed in charge of the 34 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. organization. The other officers were Captain A. J. Swift, who had previously studied the functions of this particular branch of the service in Europe, and Lieutenant Gustavus W. Smith. The new company, which consisted of seventy-one men, exclusive of the officers here named, was rapidly drilled, and on September 19th was inspected by Colonel Totten, Chief of Engineers, who awarded great praise to Lieutenant McClellan and his brother officers for the excellent discipline to which they had brought their command. The young soldier was now fairly launched upon the sea of life. The metal of which he was made was now to be tested, and either to receive the stamp of true genius, or to be cast away among the dross. How the bark has weathered the storm it is the province of this book to tell. How the metal, after it has passed through the crucible and been handled daintily and roughly, still retains its sterling value, unbiassed history records. The aspirant for military honors, before departing for what proved to be the scene of his earliest fame, visited the place of his birth, and whilst there was in- troduced by his father to Captain Randolph B. Marcy, to whose family it was destined he should, in after years, be allied. With an air of pardonable pride, Dr. McClellan presented his son to his senior in arms. He was buoyed up with hope that the young officer possessed those merits which would achieve ARRIVES AT THE SEAT OF WAR. 35 for him a name that would adorn the annals of his country. The actions of the son have since proved that, the hope of the father was established upon a firm basis. McClellan embarked with his company from New York at the end of September, and on October 12th, after a passage of fourteen days, landed at Brazos Santiago, not far from the mouth of the Rio Grande. It was near Matamoras, on this river, that, on the 24th of April previous, hostilities had commenced be- tween the opposing forces. The war opened by the Mexicans invading the new State of Texas, and the United States were compelled in self-defence to op- pose the invader, and to vindicate the national honor. General Taylor, who commanded the American forces, which had been for some time stationed in Texas, for the protection of that State against the anticipated invasion, prior to McClellan's landing, had successfully pursued the Mexicans within their own territory, and on the 23d of September had achieved a glorious victory over them at Monterey, a place situated at some distance in the interior. Previous to the battle of Monterey, it was inti- mated to General Taylor by the administration, that a movement should be made into the State of Tamau- lipas, more particularly with a view of taking and holding Tampico, its principal sea-port. Orders were given, at the same time, to the naval' squadron in the Gulf, to co-operate with the-la:;d 36 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. forces in the capture of that place, or, if thought practicable, to take it without waiting for the assist- ance of the army. As tbe dispatch, containing the instructions to the General, was captured by the enemy, and its bearer brutally murdered, the' move- ment was delayed until December. McClellan and the engineer company were instruct- ed to report to General Taylor upon their arrival in Texas. From Brazos Santiago they proceeded to Camargo, and were afterwards countermarched to the mouth of the Rio Grande, from whence they ad- vanced up the river to Matamoras. Here they were deployed to take part in the expedition to Tam- pico. Captain Swift and several of his men were compelled, on account of sickness, to be left behind in the hospital at Matamoras. The command of the company therefore devolved upon Lieutenant Smith, and the change considerably increased the duties of McClellan, who now became second in command. The column which composed the expedition con- sisted of volunteers under General Patterson. It moved to Tampico by way of Victoria, and in the progress, McClellan' s little band, now reduced to forty-five, hud the most onerous duties to perform. The engineer soldiers were the pioneers of the column. They opened roads, built bridges, cleared ground for encampments, and undertook the most arduous labors under the most trying circumstances. This work tested the strength of the nun an-1 iV? slill THE ARMY OF INVASION. 37 of the officers. Upon arriving at Tampico, it was discovered that the place had already surrendered to the naval force under Commodore Perry. Santa Anna had ascertained from the captured dis- patch that Tampico was to become a point of attack. He had consequently caused the guns and public stores to be destroyed and secreted, and ordered the garrison to retreat beyond the mountains. The town, therefore, had surrendered on November 15th, without the firing of a gun, and was held by the navy until the arrival of Patterson's column, when it was handed over into the charge of the land forces. On the 23d of November, 1846, General Scott was instructed to assume command of the forces in Mexi- co, and, after capturing and holding Vera Cruz as a base of operations, to march directly upon the national capital. This expedition did not supersede the opera- tions of General Taylor, who was ordered to hold the line of the Sierra Madre, where he achieved another victory at Buena Vista, February 22d and 23d, 1847 But as portions of General Taylor's forces were re- quired to form part of the expedition to the capital, he was compelled thenceforth to change his offensive attitude into one of defence. Lieute-nant McClellan and the engineer company were among the troaps destined to fight their way to the city of Mexico. The Island of Lobos, between Tampico and Yera Cruz, one hundred 38 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. and twenty miles north of the latter place was chosen as the rendezvous of the naval and military forces who were to take part in the assault of Vera Cruz. On March 7, 1847, one hundred and sixty- three vessels, carrying twelve thousand soldiers, left this island for the point of attack, which it reached two days afterward. Vera Cruz is the principal channel through which the riches of New Spain are poured to the old world. It is a regularly and even beautifully built city, with fine open streets, a noble spacious square, and many churches. The shore on which it is situ- ated is of the most sterile nature, and gives to the place a deserted appearance, whilst the flights of unclean birds, which hover above its roofs and perch upon its spires, are any thing but pleasing to the eye. The city is protected from attack by sea by the castle of San Juan d'Ulloa. This fortress, which has been deemed almost impregnable, is more remarkable for its actual strength than for its stri- king and picturesque appearance. It seems to rise directly out of the water, as its base is only a sand- bank, whose shallow flats protect it towards the ocean. Whilst off Vera Cruz, Captain Swift resumed command of the engineer company, but was only able to retain it for a few da^s, when his sickness increased so rapidly that it soon after terminated his life. A new officer was at the same time added to HARD WORK. 39 the company in the person of Lieutenant Foster, who remained in active service with it until he was disabled by a wound at El Molino del Rey. Thus we see that upon Lieutenants Smith and McClellan the greater part of the duties of the company de- volved, and those duties were of the severest kind. The American forces were debarked upon a spot not far from the city. McClellan's company landed with the advance division of General Worth. It was anticipated that the disembarkation would be disputed by the enemy, but no opposition was experienced, beyond the firing of shot and shell from the city fortresses and the castle of San Juan d'Ulloa. The spot chosen for landing was unexpected by the enemy, and the debarkation was so admirably ordered, that not a life was lost in the operation. Immediately that all the troops were safely on shore, the investment of the city commenced. From the moment of the landing until the surrender of the castle and town, on the 26th, the engineer com- pany was engaged in most severe and trying labors, in opening paths and roads to facilitate the invest- ment, in covering reconnoissances, and in the daily increasing hardships of the trenches. The total of the company was so small, and the demand for its aid so incessant, that every man may be said to have been constantly on duty, with scarcely a moment for rest or refreshment. Colonel Totten, Chief of Engineers, reports that McClellan and his brother 40 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. officers "participated in these night and day labors, and, directing the operations of the siege with unsur- passed intelligence and zeal, were emulated in per- severance by these good and faithful soldiers." It would certainly seem that the importance of the duties performed by McClellan and his brave comrades were not duly appreciated at the time, for Colonel Totten further remarks : " Aware how much the prompt success of the operation may be said to have depended upon the proper execution of the duties devolving upon this company, and having been a personal witness of the personal efforts made by all, it has been a source of regret to me, that they were not rewarded by express acknowledgments of greater value than I could bestow." And these duties, too, had to be performed amid the greatest danger to life and limb. Here was McClellan, in only his twentieth year, and in ap- pearance some two or three years younger, brought for the first time under a fiery ordeal sufficient to try the nerves and frame of an experienced and prac- tised soldier. The bombardment of the city by land and sea commenced on the 22d, and continued until its capitulation. On the 25th, all the batteries were in awful activity. Terrible was the scene ! When night fell, the darkness was illuminated with blazing shells circling through the air. The roar of artillery and the heavy fall of descending shot were heard SURRENDER OF VERA CRUZ. il in every street of the besieged city. The roofs of the buildings were on fire. The domes of the city reverberated from fearful explosions. The sea was reddened with the broadsides of the ships. The castle of San Juan returned from its heavy batteries the fire, the light, the smoke, the noise of battle. The sublime and awfully terrible scene, as beheld from the trenches of the army, caused the eye to rest upon it in bewilderment. The firing terminated on the morning of the 26th, upon the Mexicans making overtures of capitulation ; and, at ten o'clock of the morning of the 29th, the Mexican flag was hauled down, and the stars and stripes were flung to the breeze upon the walls of Vera Cruz, and upon the ramparts of the castle of San Juan d'Ulloa. A few days were now consumed in preparing transportation for the army on its march toward the city of Mexico. All being completed, on April 8th the columns were put into motion. For a mile or two the road led along the low, sandy, sea- beaten .shore, and then struck off to the west through a gap among the sandy hills. The route next wound for many miles over deep and shifting soil, and then a gently undulating district was approached. Leav- ing this behind, the aspect of the country became changed ; the elevations were steeper and more fre- quent, the road firmer and more rocky, whilst the vision was bounded on the west by the slopes of the 42 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. tall sierras, which rose rapidly in bold and wooded masses. Here all the features were found to be strictly tropical. At Plan del Rio, fifty miles from Vera Cruz, again the scenery entirely changed, and the road struck boldly into the side of the mountain, which had to be ascended. Many and formidable were the obstacles which opposed the army in its progress to this point. But with McClellan and the engineer company leading the way, these obstacles were all over- come, and three days after leaving Vera Cruz the army encamped at Plan del Rio, the fortified heights of Cerro Gordo checking their further pro- gress. Santa Anna, after his defeat by General Taylor at Buena Vista, had fallen back with his shattered forces, and had hurried to the city of Mexico ; whence, after he had quelled a political commotion, he proceeded eastward to dispute the advance of Scott's forces, collecting such volunteers, brigands, and guerrillas as he could pick up by the way. The first collision between the rival armies took place at Cerro Gordo, the natural fortifications of which Santa Anna so greatly strengthened as to render the posi- tion all but impregnable. To dislodge the Mexicans from this stronghold, held by a force considerably superior to that whicih Scott could bring against it, required the best efforts of skill, military science, and daring adventure ; and BEFORE CERRO GORDO. 43 these high qualities were not wanting in the Ameri- can army. As we have already stated, three days' march from Yera Cruz brought Scott's advance column in sight of the enemy. The American camp was formed on the tierra caliente, or low level, which ter- minates at Plan del Rio. From this point the road ascends immediately by a long circuit, among lofty hills, whose commanding points had all been fortified rind garrisoned. The enemy's right, intrenched, rested on a precipice overhanging an impassable ravine that forms the bed of a stream; and his intrenchinents stretched continuously to the road, on which was placed a formidable battery. On the other side, the lofty and difficult heights of Cerro Gordo commanded the approaches in all directions. The main body of the Mexican army was encamped on level ground half a mile in the rear of these heights. General Twiggs, who commanded the advance, caused a reconnoissance to be made on the 12th, after which it was determined to attack the enemy in front, on the following day. But Patterson, who was second in command, coming up, that general determined that no assault should be made until it was ordered by Scott. The Commander-in-chief arrived on the 14th, and at once made' a second and more thorough reconnoissance of the enemy's position. It did not take him long to discover that it was mad- ness to hurl his troops against the all but impregna- 44 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. ble heights bristling with the bayonets of the Mexi- cans. He resolved, therefore, to gain by strategy that which, if attempted only by brute force, would cost him dear in precious lives. It was here that McClellan first studied, in actual warfare, the art of strategy, under the tutorship of the great captain of the day. The young soldier here learned to appreciate the truth of that great Roman sentiment: "It is more honorable to save a friend than to kill an enemy." If in after years he failed in his attempt to carry this great art and this noble principle into practice, the failure must not be attrib- uted to any lack of truth in the principle, nor to any want of skill in the commander, but rather to the baneful interference of certain carpet-knights, whose only battle-grounds had been the forum and the plat- form windy words their only weapons. To enable the Commander-in-chief to carry out his plans, he found it necessary to cut a road around the base of the mountain, so that he could flank the Mexican lines and attack the enemy in the rear. Here was Herculean work for McClellan and the company to perform, but so determinedly and so energetically did they labor, that but two days were consumed in the undertaking. And so secretly, too, was it executed, that the Mexicans were unaware of its progress until it was nearly completed, on the 17th, when they rained down upon the workmen a terrific storm of lead and iron. STORMING THE HEIGHTS. 45 Though it was evident that this new pathway had been completed to within a short distance of the road which led from the rear of the enemy's camp to Jalapa, still, as that road was not reached, it became absolutely necessary to storm the heights. All the preparations for this work being completed, the assault was made on the following day. So per- fect were General Scott's arrangements, that failure was impossible, and victory's eagles had no alternati\ f e but to perch upon the American banners. The heights of Cerro Gordo, towering over the enemy's other positions, and commanding them all, was the main point of attack. When the morning dawned, the Mexicans discovered that during the night the Amer- icans had planted heavy guns on a lower height which they had captured on the previous evening. Severe firing was immediately opened by the former and answered by the latter. Scott soon passed the order "Storm the heights above!" Upward and onward rushed the Americans, careless of the hail impelled from the mouth of cannon and of musket, which sadly thinned their ranks, until they gained the muzzles of the enemy's guns. Then a terrific hand-to-hand encounter ensued, and then a soul- stirring shout rent the air, and the American standard waved in triumph on the blood-stained battlements. The engineer company was at the point of honor in this important action, having joined Harney's 43 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN TftE FIELD. command in the assault on the main works. Young McClellan was creditably mentioned in General Scott's official report, for the " able assistance" he rendered on the occasion. On the twenty-fourth of the same month, he obtained the full rank of second lieutenant, in place of brevet rank* which he had heretofore only held. While our gallant soldiers wjere reaping imperish- able honor, and displaying the prowess of American arms, in their daring ascent of the heights of Cerro Gordo, General Shields with his volunteers pursued the line of the new-made road, assaulted the Mexi- can left, and carried the rear battery. Having thus possessed himself of the national road, along which the discomfited forces found it necessary to retreat, he fell upon them in their flight, cutting many to pieces, and his brave soldiers chased the remnant as they hastened from the scene of their disaster. Shields was unfortunately shot through the lungs in this action, but he providentially survived to gather new laurels then in the future progress of the Mexi- can campaign, and now in the time of his country's greatest trials. The only reverse which occurred to the Americans during the day, was the repulse of Pillow's com- mand in its first assault upon the enemy's right. The fall of Cerro Gordo, however, placed this posi- * BREVET, is a commission or warrant without seal, giving a title and rank in the army above that for which par is received. SCOTT AXD M'CLELLAX. 47 tion at the mercy of its guns, and compelled the surrender of the garrison of three thousand. The rout of the enemy was complete, and the re- treating arrny was pursued some distance along the road to Jalapa by the reserves under General Worth. With the exception of a small body of cavalry, the Mexican forces were completely dispersed and utterly disorganized. With but eight thousand five hundred effective soldiers, Scott had vanquished more than twelve thousand Mexicans ; and so great were his captures of prisoners, cannon, and military stores, that he felt completely embarrassed with the fruits of his victory. It was during the battle of Cerro Gordo that Scott and McClellan first met. The General was slowly toiling up the mountain on foot, leading his horse, when he beheld a young officer, almost breathless from exertion, approaching him. This was Lieu- tenant McClellan, who had been busily engaged spiking some guns, and who, from the position in which he was placed, had been an eye-witness of the repulse Pillow had sustained. Noticing General Scott ascending the hill, he, upon his own responsi- bility, hurried to the commander to inform him of the fact. " Well, never mind that now," replied Scott ; " we have been victorious in another part of the field, and we'll beat them yet. But you go, my man, and attend to them yourself." Upon which McClellan 48 FIRST EXPERIENCES IN THE FIELD. scampered back to his guns, arid the General con- tinued his ascent. The old hero still retains a vivid recollection of this meeting, and a short time ago related the particulars to a gentleman, by whom it was communicated to the author. The immediate results of the victory of Cerro Gordo were the possession of the important city of Jalapa, seven leagues distant, to which the American columns pushed rapidly on, and entered on the 19th; the abandonment by the Mexicans of their works and artillery at La Hoya, the next formidable pass on the road to the capital ; and the occupation by the Americans of the strong fortress of Perote, with its extensive armament and its large supply of muni- tions of war. Garrisoning these places by the way, Scott marched onward with his victorious army into the heart of the enemy's country, the door of which had been opened by the capture of Cerro Gordo. Worth, leading the van, entered the beautiful city of Puebla on May 12th, after he had vanquished at Amosoque, on the road, three thousand Mexicans, under the leadership of their commander-in-chief. In warfare, the point of the greatest danger is ever the place of the greatest honor. It is evident that that point and that place, in an invading army, must be at the head of the column most in advance. In the march to Puebla, McClellan and his daring fellows remained, as they heretofore had been, the pioneers of REST AT PUEBLA. 49 the army. They were the first to enter the city of Jalapa, with the advance, Twiggs's Division, the first to enter Puebla, with the advance division under General Worth. They thus subjected them- selves to the greatest peril, were required to be ever on the alert, and had but few opportunities of re- freshing exhausted nature, except by a hastily snatched meal, and a few moments of disturbed sleep. Within thirty-five days after the departure from Yera Cruz, the Americans had advanced nearly two hundred miles, through several of the most densely peopled and loyal departments of Mexico, in the direction of the national capital. At Puebla the troops encamped on the western side of the city. Here they rested for about ten weeks, whilst re-en- forcements arrived to supply the place of many of the volunteers whose period of service had expired. During this respite from the toils of active ser- vice, McClellan and his brother officers, ever perse- vering, and zealous for the perfect discipline of their command, continued the instruction of the engineer company in its appropriate studies and exercises. All its members at the same time contributed their labor in the repairs of the defences. The pause of the army at this place, tended materially to refresh the soldiers after their severe struggle find long march. A more charming spot could scarcely have been chosen for their resting- 50 FIRST SXPEKIEXCES IN THE FIELD. place. Puebla or Puebla de los Angelos, " the city of angels" is beautifully situated in the midst of a fruitful plain, bounded by mountains and shut in at the west by gigantic peaks. Its streets are broad, clean, and well paved ; the houses large, neat, and cheerful; and the bells of its numerous churches gladden the ear with their musical tones. A public walk, shaded by rows of trees, stretching along the banks of a small stream in the outskirts, and an ala- meda of exceeding beauty, close to the extensive pile of San Francisco on the west, form pleasant promenades ; whilst in the centre of the town is found a large, well-paved public square, surrounded by portals or arches similar to the Italian city of Bologna, and comprising in its midst a massive cathedral, whose wealth is renowned among the Catholic churches of America. An incident occurred to young McClellan, in the vicinity of Puebla, which it is interesting to record. One day he was out reconnoitring, unattended, and, when about twelve miles from the city, suddenly discovered a tall engineer officer of the Mexican army advancing towards him. Our young hero, nothing daunted by the discovery, called upon his Mexican friend to surrender ; and at the same time the tall Mexican demanded the surrender of the little American, whom he looked upon disdainfully, and fancied he could gobble up in an instant. The gallant West Pointer was, however, not so soon M'CLELLAN'S PLUCK. 51 to be vanquished, and, showing fight, a hand-to-hand scuffle ensued, which resulted in McClellan collaring his gigantic opponent and conducting him into camp. During the cessation of hostilities, which occurred while the army was encamped at Puebla, overtures of peace were made to the Mexicans, but no satisfac- tory terms could be arranged, the latter being evi- dently desirous of gaining, in the defences around their capital, a victory which would compensate them for all their previous losses, and restore to their arms that prestige which they had so recently lost. 52 UPON THE PATH OF GLORY. CHAPTER III. UPON THE PATH OF GLOEY. On the march again Obstacles to overcome A parallel with the past The Valley of Mexico The army approaches the capi- tal McClellan's company constructs a new road Base of operations McClellan fired upon by the enemy, and loses his horse He opens the battle Takes charge of the howitzers. Gallant assault of Contreras McClellan makes a reconnois- sance The battle of Churubusco McClellan promoted for his bravery. ON August 7th, Scott commenced his march from Puebla with about ten thousand men. The un- dertaking he now desired to achieve, the capture of the city of Mexico, compared with the means at his command, was one of unexampled difficulty and daring. He was about to attempt the subjugation of the strongholds and almost impregnable places of refuge, to which the defeated generals and routed armies of the enemy had retired for safety. He desired to grasp what had been the ancient capital of the Aztec empire, was afterwards the splendid me- tropolis of the Spanish viceroyalty, and then the capital of a republic of eight millions of people, who were not unpractised in war, and whose strongly defensive posi- tions were protected by all the modern appliances of military science, and guarded by an army more than PARALLEL WITH TIIE PAST. 53 three times the number of that which the American general could bring into the field. A wonderful combination of superior military quali- ties in the commander, coupled with disciplined valor in his troops, were required to insure success. Un appalled by the formidable difficulties and dangers which lay before it, the gallant little army entered upon this most perilous enterprise with unfaltering confidence and determination. " In the same month," says Brantz Mayer, " three hundred and twenty-eight years before, Hernando Cortez, with his slender military train, departed from the east coast of Mexico, on the splendid errand of Indian conquest. After fighting two battles with the Tlascalans, who dwelt in the neighborhood of Puebla, and with the Cholulans, whose solitary pyra- mid a grand and solemn monument of the past still rises majestically from the beautiful plain, he slowly toiled across the steeps of the grand volcanic sierra which divides the valleys and hems in the plain of Mexico. Patiently winding u its wooded sides, and passing the forests of its summit, the same grand panoramic scene lay spread out in the sunshine at the feet of the American general, that, three centuries be- fore, had greeted the eager and longing eyes of the greatest Castilian soldier who ever trod the shore of America." The army took the route of the national road, until it reached the valley of the city of Mexico. Twiggs's 54 UPON THE PATH OF GLOJRY. Division formed the van, and, as was usual, McClellaa and his company removed obstacles from the path and piloted the way. The valley of the city of Mexico comprises a circle of about fifty miles in diameter, upon which the eternal Cordilleras frown down in all their tropi- cal grandeur. Ten volcanic hills which, ages ago, ceased to pour forth their molten lava, numerous lesser hills, six small lakes, and ten populous cities and towns, are situated within the circumference of this valley. The capital lies near its western edge, close to the southwest corner of the largest of the lakes, Lake Tezcuco, and has a background of mountains that approach close to its outer walls. The national road, by which Scott was expected to arrive, skirts the southern border of Lake Tezcuco. But the American general had no desire to approach the capital by the path upon which the Mexicans had prepared for him a fiery welcome. A few miles south of this lake are two smaller sheets of water Lakes Chalco* and Xochimilco lying close together. He conceived that the best route to the city would be by making a detour to the south of these two lakes, and thus reach it by the Aea- pulco road. This road runs 'a little distance to the west of the lakes, and is the highway from the capital to the Pacific coast. On the llth of September, the advance of the army Twiggs's Division reached Ayotla, a small A DETOUK. 55 town on the northern side of Lake Chalco, and within twenty miles of the capital. Worth's Division, which followed, took position near the village of Chalco, on the eastern side of the lake, and about five miles from Ayotla. The rest of the army was quartered between these two places. To the surprise of his officers, the commander ordered the city to be approached by the Acapulco road, to reach which it was necessary to take the route already described. A bold reconnoissance, on the 12th, discovered the formidable works prepared by the enemy upon the national highway, and demonstrated the advisability of the commanding general's plan. From the relative situation of the various divisions it was found necessary that Worth's should take the lead, and, as a matter of course, McClellan and the engineer company were transferred to it. The road that had to be passed over was a long and all but deserted pathway, running througk olive groves, and quiet little villages that lay embowered in the woods. As this road was almost useless for the passage of an army, it was necessary that a better and wider one should be opened, and the exertions of McClellan and his men were taxed to the utmost in the accom- plishment of the undertaking. On the afternoon of August 15th, the columns were put in motion upon this path, and after two 56 UPON THE PATH OF GLORY. days' arduous exertions, they struck the Acapuloo road at San Augustin, There was some little skirmishing on the way with the rancheros, or country militia, who fired down upon the troops from the neighboring crags. A ditch was also cut across the road, and rocks rolled into it from the impending heights, in order to obstruct the passage of the advancing army. But the engineer company set to work to clear the path, and in about half an hour removed the obstructions. The enemy, awaiting the arrival of the Americans by the eastern highway, now suddenly found them on the southern road, where they completely turned the line of defences which had been prepared. ,, San Augustin was within nine miles, and almost directly south, of the capital. The road between the two places was but partially protected. Upon it were the villages of San Antonio and Churubusco. Diverging from San Augustin to the left, there was a small road leading over broken ground to th6 vil- lage of Contreras, whence it continued in a well-beaten track through San Angel to the capital. On the right of the latter road, a short distance after leaving San Augustin, lay a field of lava, more than two miles in length and a mile in width, which could only be compared to a tempestuous sea, that had been by the enchanter's wand suddenly transformed into stone. On the left of the same road, before arriving at the village of Coutreras, rose the heights of the same OBSTACLES IN THE WAY. 57 name, amid a mass of broken volcanic matter. West of these two roads there was still another highway, called the Toluca road, which passed through the village of Tacubaya, and approached the city by the heights of Chapultepec. Upon discovering the movement of the Americans, Santa Anna dispatched General Yalentia with the flower of his army to the heights of Contreras, which partly fortified position the latter hastily prepared for strong resistance ; whilst General Rincon occupied the church of San Pablo at Churubusco, and General Anaya, by extraordinary exertions, endeavored to render the bridge at the latter place impassable to the advancing columns. Santa Anna, at the same time, threw up intrenchments at San Angel, between Con- treras and the capital, while San Antonio, the first position in front of Scott on the main road, was put in possession of a formidable force. The Americans had, therefore, numerous obstacles placed before them on every path, but the future proved that American courage was able to overcome them all. August 18th was busily spent in making recon- noissances, and the duties McClellan had to fulfil on that day were arduous and important. The result of the discoveries convinced Scott that it would not be advisable to approach the city by the direct road, as San Antonio, the first point on that line, was found to be only accessible over a long narrow cause- 3* 68 UPON THE PATH OF GLORY. way, flanked OD the east by impassable ditches and bogs, and on the west by the field of lava. He therefore determined to reach it by a detour to the west; and to accomplish this, it was necessary to strike the first blow against the fortified position of Contreras. On the 19th Pillow's Division was thrown forward in that direction. At the head of the column the engineer company prepared the path leading to Con- treras for the transmission of artillery. McClellan, being in advance, suddenly came upon a strong picket of the enemy, which fired upon him and killed his horse. Twiggs's Division arrived at the time upon the scene, having followed along the road that had been laboriously opened for the passage of the army. The general immediately ordered forward a regiment of rifles to attack the enemy, and Magruder's battery was conducted into action and placed in position by McClellan. Although the latter had no command in the bat- tery, he remained with it during the conflict, and rendered valuable assistance in directing the fire of the howitzers, also brought into play near the same spot. General Tvviggs, in his official dispatch, mak(-s honorable mention of the name of Lieutenant Geo-ge B. McClellan, for "gallant services" performed by that young officer on the 19th. " Lieutenant M'CLELLAX AT THE GU:NS. 59 G. B. McClellan," he further remarks, " after Lieu- tenant Callender was wounded, took charge of and managed the howitzer battery (Lieutenant Reno being detached with the rockets) with judgment and success, until it became so disabled as to require shelter. For Lieutenant McClellan's efficiency and gallantry in this affair, I present his name for the favorable consideration of the General-in-Chief." Our young hero, it would thus appear, was instru- mental in commencing the contest for the occupation of the capital. Not more than five of Magruder's light guns could be brought into action, as it was impossible to get the twelve-pounders over the rocks. These and the howitzers were opposed by twenty- two well-manned guns, which Valentia brought to bear upon them. Only the rifles and a regiment of infantry, with their small arms could assist the artillery, for it was impossible for cavalry to form amid the broken vol- canic matter. It was equally impossible successfully to assail the enemy's position in front, the way being obstructed by an impassable ravine, and by the vast volcanic plain rent in many places by deep chasms and fissures, with the only road through it protected by the guns of the enemy on the heights, who appeared to be receiving considerable re-enforcements. The contest, after three hours' conflict, was, therefore, abandoned. General Persifor F. Smith, who commanded the 60 TTPOX THE PATH OF GLOKY. Second Brigade of Twiggs's Division, and who had been sent forward under a hot fire to support Magruder's and Cullender's batteries, viewing the nature of the enemy's position, and being satisfied of the impossibility of capturing it from the front, determined to try one of his flanks. As he was at the time isolated from his division and unable to communicate with it, he acted upon his own respon- sibility. He took the engineer company with him to reconnoitre the ground, and proceeded to the right, as in that direction he would be enabled to cut off the enemy's retreat. Pillow, by a happy coincidence, conceived the same idea as Smith, and dispatched Cadwallader to effect a lodgment in the village of Contreras. Later in the day General Scott, being upon the field of operations, approved the movements of Generals Smith and Pillow, and dispatched other troops to aid in attacking the enemy's intrenched camp in the rear. It was after sunset before all had arrived in the village, General Smith, who was given command of the expedition, determined to approach the rear of the intrenchment during the dark, and be prepared to assault it at daybreak. He desired General Shields, who also entered the village after nightfall, to hold it for the purpose of cutting off the retreat of the Mexicans after their camp should be captured. That night a pitiless storm burst over the besieg- ASSAULT OF COXTREIiAS. 61 iug force, whilst a vast canopy of pitchy darkness formed its only covering. Though the elements were the source of much discomfiture to the troops, they were remarkably propitious to the plans of the commander. Until the dawn of the opening day the soldiers either lay upon their arms on the damp ground, or stood chilled by the drenching rain, but with then- hearts burning with a spirit of true valor. At three o'clock of the morning of the 20th, the columns were again put into motion. The brigades of Riley, Cadwallader, and Smith approached the rear of the enemy's batteries, through a ravine, which sheltered them from view, until they came to a halt within a few footsteps of the Mexican guns. "Charge!" rang through? the air, breaking the stillness of the morning, and running like an electric shock through the surprised enemy, whose attention at the time was concentrated upon the opposite direction, where the attack had been made on the previous day. Brief and bloody was the struggle. The despera- tion of despair impelled the Mexicans to feats of extraordinary daring. The victory, however, was not for them. A few moments of vain resistance, and then Valentia's entire force left the earthworks and fled towards the city. Then Shields, with his New York and South Caro- lina volunteers, gave the Mexicans a warm reception 62 UPON THE PATH OF GLOKT. upon the highway, where a network of cross fire decimated their numbers as they passed. The engineer soldiers, under Lieutenants Smith, McClellan, and Foster, together with the rifles, were, at the opening of the attack, thrown across the ravine under the brow of the slope, and swept it from this position, in front. Then inclining to the left they joined in the attack on the troops outside the left flank of the fort. Thus had four thousand five hundred Americans, the entire number brought into action at Contreras, vanquished seven thousand Mexicans under Valentia, and wrested from them their stronghold, near to which, at San Angel, twelve thousand more under Santa Anna, were at the time in reserve. Numerous prisoners, including four generals, were taken. Many guns and a vast number of small arms formed the trophies of the victory, and one road to the capital was cleared of its obstructions. To the opening of the other highway Scott now directed his attention. To enable him to accomplish this, he neither gave his own troops, nor those of the enemy, a moment of rest. Twiggs and Pillow were ordered to pursue the flying foe, whilst the attention of the remainder of the army was directed against the strong fort of San Antonio, which commanded the other road. Quit- man's and Worth's Divisions had been deployed to aid the capture of Contreras by diverting the atten- CHURUBUSCO. 03 tion of the enemy in front, but from the rapidity with which the place had been taken, the action was over before they could form their columns in the stony field. The former was now ordered to countermarch to San Augustin, to garrison the head-quarters and depot, whilst the latter was ordered to take part hi the assault upon San Antonio. In the mean time, the enemy had learned of the defeat at Contreras, and had commenced to withdraw from this advanced position. The retiring troops were, however, cut in two by the rapid movement of a portion of Scott's infantry. This compelled the advance to fly to Churubusco, whither it was pursued, whilst the rear, comprising about two thousand men,, retreated to the east. The Mexican force, under Santa Anna, at San Angel, also retired upon Churubusco, against which point the whole strength of the American army was now concentrated. The village of Churubusco is situated upon a river of the same name, and is about five miles distant from Contreras. It had been strongly fortified and garri- soned. The bridge which crossed the river had been protected by heavy batteries, and the church or con- vent, a formidable stone building, four hundred and fifty yards west of the bridge, had been turned into a citadel, with outworks and lines of defence, and gave shelter to a large force. At this point, Santa Anna collected all his available troops, for it was the last position of the outer line of the defence of the 64 UPON THE PATH OF GLORY. capital, and it was necessary to hold it at every hazard. We have just left one portion of the American army moving on Churubusco from the southward, with the routed garrison of San Antonio flying be- fore it. Upon its first arrival at the bridge, Twiggs's and Pillow's Divisions, and other troops, were found to be already engaged assailing the church and forcing the enemy's lines. We will return to the detachments we left pressing the retreating Mexicans who had been vanquished at Contreras. The direction these also took was towards the village of Churubusco. The engineer soldiers accompanied General Smith's Brigade of Twiggs's Division in this movement. About one o'clock of the day, in the attack upon the enemy's works at Churubusco, these engineers were ordered to the front, to intersect the road from San Antonio to Mexico, in order to cut off the retreating enemy. McClellan was directed by General Twiggs to move upon one road, whilst Lieutenant Stewart moved forward upon another, for the purpose of ascertaining the position of a battery reported to be at some little distance in front. Both officers soon returned, with the information that it was drawn up before the convent, the roofs and steeples of which were in plain view of the head of the column, and about seven hundred yards distant therefrom. The roofs were covered with troops, and the A RECONNOISSAXCE. 65 battery was masked by intervening trees and corn- fields. General Twiggs then directed McClellan and his brother officers to make a second reconnoissance, with the engineer company as an escort. They soon discovered the enemy's forces on their right, and on their left, and on their front. McClellan speedily ascertained that the American troops were already engaged in the front, and had apparently turned the battery and the convent on the right. Reporting the same to General Twiggs, that officer ordered for- ward a regiment of artillery to support the rifles, who were then in action. Whilst these operations were in progress, and whilst Twiggs was subsequently attacking the church at Churubusco, the American forces at the bridge assaulted the bastions which guarded it. The con- flict was spirited, but the advance was steady. In an hour, the artillery, which played with wonderful precision, had sufficiently breached the works to enable them to be carried at the point of the bayonet. The captured guns and Duncan's Battery were then immediately turned against the church, which stub- bornly withstood Twiggs' s assault. The loss of the bridge soon compelled the surrender of the church, the closing scene at which was enacted by the bay- onet and the sword. The Mexican General Rincon and several officers and men fell into the hands of the victorious Americans as prisoners of war. 66 UPON THE PATH OP GLORT. But Contreras, and the bridge and church at Churu- busco, were not the only conquests of the day. To the western rear of the latter village, Santa Anna, who commanded the field forces in person, had mar- shalled an army of seven thousand, nearly one-half of which was cavalry. Here Shields, with his volun- teers of New York and South Carolina, side by side, led on to the charge. Pierce, and Butler, and Colonel Harney with his cavalry, followed to the fray. And afterwards, Worth's and Pillow's men, who had forced the bridge, rushed along the highway to the conflict, but only to find the enemy flying before the victorious Shields, who alone among the generals was left to lead the victors Butler had fallen, and Pierce * had fainted from exhaustion. Captain Kearney, with his dragoons, chased the Mexicans to the gates of their city, and another road to the capital was opened to the invading army. Thus closed a day which had been a brilliant one in the annals of American prowess. But the evening of that day found many a noble heart ready to burst with grief. Gallant comrades had to be laid under the sod, already crimsoned with their blood. Volleys, fired over their graves, broke the stillness of the night ; the echoes of those volleys speedily passed away, but the memories of the departed heroes still remain, enshrined in the hearts of many a brave survivor. McClellan and the engineer soldiers had, on the LIEUTENANT M'CLELLAN CAPTURES A MEXICAN. PROMOTION. 67 two eventful days just closed, fulfilled as important duties as had devolved on any other portion of the army. Sheltering themselves behind walls and in ditches, these brave men took their observations whilst the artillery played over their heads; and upon the result of these observations, the general, to whose division they were at the time attached, was guided in the distribution of his troops. "The cool and daring gallantry" of McClellan was especially noticed in the official report of the operations of the company, and brevet rank of first lieutenant, bearing date August 20th, was awarded to him, " for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battles of Contreras and Churubusco." CHAPTER IV. HONORS WON. Armistice Perfidy of the Mexicans The heights of Chapul- tepec described Grandeur of the scene El Molino del Key and La Casa Mata The enemy deceived Capture of Chapul- tepec The final struggle for the city Fierce encounters McClellan's daring Fighting on the house-tops McClellan the first to penetrate the heart of the city Surrender of the capital Mexico Americanized Honors won by our hero Former friends, now foes. THE night of August 20th was a tumultuous one in the city of Mexico. The ministers of State de- cided upon asking for a truce to the hostilities. An armistice immediately granted by Scott. To adopt the language of the subject of our work, that general eral, " although a consummate and confident com- mander, ever preferred, when duty and honor would permit, the olive-branch of peace, to the blood-stained laurels of war."* Negotiations for peace were immediately com- menced. The persistent perfidy of the Mexicans, however, induced them to deviate from the terms of the armistice, and to increase the garrison of the castle of Chapultepec, the principal defence of the capital. * General McClellan's speech, at the dedication of the site of the Battle Monument. West Point, June 15th, 1864. THE ARMISTICE TERMINATED. 69 They were also stated to have collected together the bells of the city, and to have forwarded them to E Molino del Rey, or King's Mill, a foundry situated near the castle, for the purpose of having them cast into cannon. This statement, however, was event- ually found to be erroneous. Scott, becoming aware of the treachery of his enemy, on the 7th of September, declared the truce terminated, and commenced operations for the continuance of the struggle. During the armistice, General Scott had planted his head-quarters at Tacubaya, around which the American forces were encamped. Between this village and the city of Mexico frowned the fortress of Chapultepec, situated twelve hundred yards from the former place, and two miles and a half from the city, and commanding three raised causeways which led to two of the western gates of the capital. One of these causeways ran from Chapultepec and another from Tacubaya to the Belen gate ; whilst the third connected Chapultepec with the gate of San Cosine. As this stronghold and its immediate vicinity was the battle-ground on which the conquest of the city was to be achieved, it is necessary that we should give some slight description of the place and its ap- proaches. Chapultepec, an Aztec name, which, being trans- lated into English, means " Grasshopper's Hill," is a lofty rock, one hundred and fifty feet high, 70 HONOES WO]*. upon which, in days of yore, the Halls of Mon- tezuma arose in all their princely grandeur. The Aztec princes, in the heats of summer, retired to this lovely mount, where the air was cooled by the breezes which were wafted over the surface of the neighboring lakes, and down the slopes of the neigh- boring mountains. This spot was also chosen by the Spanish viceroys for their residence, as they found it to be the most beautiful in the valley of Mexico. The remains of gardens, groves, and grot- tos, still lingered, to testify to the ancient magnifi- cence of the place. Here was once collected every luxury that wealth could procure and art devise. Here, too, nature vied with art, in rendering the scene one upon which the most fastidious eye could gaze with unalloyed delight. At the foot of the hill, the plain extends on every side in all the beauty of extreme cultivation, whilst a belt of noble cypresses encircles its immediate base. The modern palace erected by the Viceroy Galvez surmounts the hill, and commands a charming prospect over the valley and lakes ; a girdle of gigantic mountains serving as a framework to the picture. This palace, or castle, was now a military college, the cadets of which were among its defenders. The buildings on the top of the hill were strongly forti- fied, and the base was nearly surrounded by a thick stone wall. On the north, east, and south, the hill was abrupt and rocky. On the western side, or that EL MOLING DEL RET. 71 farthest from the city, it alone seemed to permit of any approach. Here were two avenues of passage. On this side, also, down the slope, was a dense forest, and here, too, were formidable defences. At the foot of this slope stood El Molino del Key, a heavy stone structure, very strongly garrisoned; and four hundred yards further to the west stood La Casa Mata, another strong stone building used as a magazine. From this latter point the ground gently ascended to Scott's head-quarters at Tacubaya. To gain an entrance into the city of Mexico by its western side, it was positively necessary that Cha- pultepec should first be possessed ; and to possess it, it was necessary to open the way by the capture of La Casa Mata and El Molino del Rey, which guarded the ascent to the heights. Scott's first operation, therefore, after terminating the armistice, was to asault these two positions. To Worth's Division the task was assigned. As Scott did not anticipate much resistance, only three thousand two hundred and fifty-one men were brought into action. The Mexicans, however, had thrown into the positions attacked a force of four- teen thousand, ten thousand of whom were held in reserve in intrenched lines. Upon these lines the first attack was made by five hundred picked men ; whilst another detachment was directed upon the mill, to cut it off, if possible, from the castle. A third force was advanced against La Casa Mata, and a brigade of 72 HONORS WON. voltigeurs was held in reserve on a ridge near the centre. The Mexicans were commanded by Santa Anna in person. The action commenced on the eighth, at day- break, by the artillery opening with fearful effect upon the mill; after which the assaulting columns dashed upon the lines, driving the Mexicans before them and seizing their field battery. But the enemy, observing the small number of the assail- ants, immediately rallied, attacked the Americans with extreme desperation, and after calling in the reserve, regained the battery. A regiment of the American reserve coining to the rescue, the battery was speedily recaptured, and the Mexicans effectually routed. In the mean time El Molino del Rey was carried at the point of the bayonet and its guns turned so as to enfilade all approaches from the castle, to whose defences the garrison retreated. La Casa Mata proved to be more strongly fortified than was anti- cipated ; it made a desperate resistance, and its cap- ture cost the Americans many valuable lives. The defenders being finally driven out, flew in great tre- pidation up the hill, and joined their comrades. So skilfully had the Mexicans masked their lines, that Generals Scott and Worth, and the engineers, had been unable to detect their strength ; but, never- theless, they were compelled to succumb to Ameri- can skill, although it was with a loss to the assailants of nearly one-fourth of the force engaged. On the other hand, however, eight hundred and fifty Mexi- cans were taken prisoners, and many of their distin- guished officers were among the killed. The next movement in Scott's . plan of attack was the occupation of the heights of Chapultepec. To enable him to obtain this with a minimum loss of life, he had recourse to a feint, which had for its object the withdrawal of a portion of the enemy's forces to another part of the city. He therefore dismantle 1 and destroyed, and then deserted the outworks already captured; and, on the llth, marched a portion of his army to the Acapulco entrance, at the southern outskirts of the capital This impressed the Mexicans with the idea that he was appalled by the obstacles which disputed his entry into the city by its western gates, and that he had thereby been compelled to change his point of attack. Deceived by this strategy, the enemy's at- tention was distracted from Chapultepec, and he withdrew his best forces to protect the southern gates which were evidently now threatened. . Daring the darkness of the night of the llth, two of the divisions which" menaced the city on the south, and one of which had arrived there during the day- time, were countermarched to the west. A small force was, however, left to carry on the game of deception, by making demonstrations that occupied the attention of the enemy. 4 74 HONORS WON. The next day batteries opened upon Chapultepec. This movement, however, led the Mexicans to antici- pate only a bombardment of the castle ; and it was not until the greater part of the army assaulted the heights, on the 13th, that it became plain to Santa Anna he had been outmatched by Scott in the game of strategy. The night of September the llth was a busy one for the engineers. From sundown to dawn, McCleL Ian and his companions were employed in construct- ing batteries, which they completed early the follow- ing morning. As soon as these were finished, cannon- ading was commenced and kept up during the entire day. Shot and shell careered through the air, and, at the end of their arched journey, tore down tho ramparts and the walls, or burst with volcanic fury over the doomed castle. At nightfall the firing was suspended, and the troops prostrated themselves by the side of their guns. On the succeeding morning, the 13th, at half-past five, the bombardment was renewed with vigor, in order that a pathway might be opened up the assumed impregnable heights, for the passage of the valiant assailants, who, it had been decided, should com- mence the dangerous ascent at eight o'clock. At the latter hour, several breaches had been made in the walls, and the signal for the bayonet assault was given. Pillow's and Quitman's Divisions formed the as- sailing columns, while Worth's was detailed to the CAPTURE OF CHAPULTEPEC. 75 northern side of the hill, for the purpose of resisting the approach of re-enforcements from the city, and of cutting off retreat from the castle. Pillow's troops rushed from El Molino del Rey on the west, and with inspiriting cheers, surmounted every obstacle. Quitman, supported by Shields and Smith, approached the hill from the southeast, and battery after battery was speedily silenced by their heroic followers. Shields, with the volunteers, filed to the left, and crossing the meadows, reached the outer court of the castle along with Pillow's men, who, rapid and resistless as the waters of a cataract, had burst over the battlements and carried all before them. Dash- ing forward to the heart of the castle, with a tre- mendous shout of triumph they ran up the stars and stripes, the sight of which carried dismay to the people in the city below, and led them to give up their cause as hopeless. Quitman did not arrive at the castle until after the victory had been gained. So stubbornly was his progress resisted, that he had been compelled, inch by inch, to cut his way up the hill. The Mexican General Bravo, with a thousand other contestants, were taken prisoners. So sudden had been the rush of the human tide, and so impetuously had it rolled up the heights, like the ocean's waves upon a rocky shore, that men, stationed to spring the mines, were either dashed down by its progress, or fled from its approach. 76 HONOES WON. Worth's soldiers caught up the cheer, as it pealed forth from the victorious crowd above, and echoed it along the plain below ; whilst Santa Anna, who was still watching the small force that continued to play with him at the southern gates, in amazement, beheld the American colors floating from the castle flag-staff, and, awe-stricken, heard the triumphant cheer, which sounded to him like the knell of departed power. All the Mexicans who escaped from the garrison collected on the plain below, and attempted to hurry across it to the city. Here they found Worth ready to cut off their retreat. To render them succor, Santa Anna dispatched a large body of fresh troops from the western gates of Belen and San Cosme. These soon became engaged with Worth in' close and terrific combat. General Scott reached the castle almost at the mo- ment of victory, and from its ramparts directed the movements of his army. He ordered Quitman by a speedy march to make for the Belen gate, and relieve Worth by diverting from him a portion of the ene- my's forces which were then pressing him. The movement was rapid, and the result was so successful that it soon enabled Worth to gain the intrench- ments on the causeway leading to the San Cosme gate. Upon this road were situated the dwellings of a fine suburb. From the roofs of the houses the Mexicans fired upon the troops with deadly aim. But, nothing FIGHTING ON THE HOUSETOPS. 77 daunted, the soldiers marched along the street of San Cosmo toward the gate. They were preceded by the engineer company, who, with axes and crow- bars, broke open doors and tore down walls, and thus forcibly entered the houses in which the enemy were posted, and from the roofs and windows of which they were pouring forth their destructive fire. McClellan with his detachment was the most prominent in this daring and dangerous work. He scrambled along the housetops so that he could the better reconnoitre the position and give instruction to the troops below. He seized upon suspicious per- sonages and made them captives. He had many a fierce struggle with desperate characters who dis- puted his passage. During a portion of the afternoon, the command of the entire company devolved upon the young sol- dier, while his superior officer was absent searching for powder for the purpose of destroying the buildings that sheltered the desperadoes. At this time, while advancing some of his men to a strong position, McClellan's progress was checked by a large force of the enemy, with whom he had a severe engagement, which lasted a considerable time. Although opposed by vastly superior numbers, he was enabled to take advantage of the position, which he gained, and eventually to drive off his assailants, after more than twenty of them had been killed. Before nightfall, Worth had cleared away every 78 HONORS WON. obstruction to the San Cosme gate, and that evening rested with his staff within the city walls. We left Quitman marching in the direction of the Belen gate, and Scott standing upon the castle height, from which elevated position he could view the operations of the troops below, and mark their pro- gress along the roads spread out before him like lines upon a map. The commanding general directed Quitman only to manosuvre, so that he could divert the enemy from Worth, whilst the latter fought his way into the city. But the impetuosity of Quitman and the high spirits and eagerness of his men could brook no restraint. They dashed valiantly on, capturing a battery by the way, and by two o'clock had pierced the city border at the Belen gate. Within this gate stood a strong citadel in which Santa Anna had taken refuge. This edifice was immediately attacked with much vigor, but with considerable loss, not only from the tremendous fire which poured from it, but also from the mus- ketry of many Mexicans who had taken to the housetops and the windows. Quitman, however, held his ground. He had been the first to enter the capital, and was determined to retain his prize. He, therefore, defended his position, and awaited the coming of the morrow to push forward to the great square, unless otherwise directed by his superior in command. Though Quitman was the first to enter the fated FIRST TO PENETRATE THE CITY. 79 city, it was left to McClellan to be the first to pene- trate it for any distance. At three o'clock the fol- lowing morning, the latter moved with a party of his men to a convent in advance of Worth's troops and found it unoccupied. He tnen extended his researches to the Alameda, a beautiful park about ten acres in extent, which formed the principal pleasure drive of the fairer portion of the citizens. At the dawn of the day he reported no enemy in sight. The rest of the story is speedily told. At four o'clock of the morning of the 14th, a deputation of the city council waited upon General Scott to sur- render the capital, just as the army was in motion for the renewal of the combat. The Mexican forces and the Mexican Government had evacuated it upon the previous evening. Nothing now remained for the victorious army but to make a triumphal entry and to plant the American standard upon the national palace. General Scott remained in pos- session of the capital until a treaty of peace was signed, which forever severed Texas from Mexico, and gave to the United States, by purchase, a road to the Pacific, through what afterwards proved to be the golden gate of California. It is hardly possible at the present time to believe that so great a conquest could be achieved with an army so small as that with which the American general finally possessed himself of the city of 80 HONORS WOX. Mexico. The entire operating force that took part in the actions of September 12th arid 13th, was but seven thousand one hundred and eighty. Deduct- ing from these the wounded and the men detailed to garrison Chapultepec, the number that finally marched into the conquered capital was less than six thousand. These seemed to vie with each other in American- izing the city. In every quarter the eye of the passer was arrested by announcements that strongly reminded him of the sign-boards and placards he had been accustomed to observe in the cities of the United States. And that he who ran might read them without much difficulty, the largest capitals were made the mediums of communi- cation. "Union Hotel," " Mush and Milk at all hours," " American Dry-goods," " Egg-nog and Mince-pies for sale here," and kindred notices inti- mated to the soldiers of the army of occupation where they could be served on home principles. In the Mexican campaign McClellan wreathed for himself a laurel chaplet he may well be proud to wear. The leaves added to it in each successive field were more brilliant than those he had pre- viously gathered, and in the final struggle for the Mexican capital he completed the chaplet with one that outshone all the rest. The officer in command of the engineer company in summing up his glorious deeds during the closing conflict of the campaign, GALLANTRY BE WARDED. 81 concludes : " To Lieutenant McClellan, of the en- gineer company, I am indebted for most importent services, both as an engineer and a company officer. His daring gallantry, always conspicuous, was never more clearly shown than upon this occasion. Oper- ating most of the time separately, I relied implicitly on his judgment on all matters where I was not present to decide, and am happy to say that the result in every case, justified his decisions." General Scott, in*his official report, alludes to the services of the engineer officers, and remarks of five lieutenants that, "they, like their captain, won the admiration of all about them." The name of that captain was Robert E. Lee, arid the names of the five lieutenants were Beauregard, Stevens, Tower, Gustavus W. Smith, and George B. McClellan. What a strange mixture of names this appears to be at the present time! McClellan Avas promoted to the rank of brevet captain under date September 8th, " for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of El Molino del Rey." His high sense of honor, however, com- pelled him to decline this advancement, as he had not taken an active part in that engagement. The same rank was afterwards tendered to him for his intrepid deeds in the final scene of the Mexican drama. It was now accepted, and was awarded, under date September 13th, 1847, "for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec." 4* 82 HONORS WON. When we compare the history of the pnst with that of the present, it is sad to reflect, that many, who in Mexico fought valiantly under the old flag, are now arrayed in battle against the loyal sons of America, who still fight gallantly under the shadow of its folds. McClellan, in the speech at West Point irom which we have already quoted, alludes to a black veil tha't, in the Doge's palace at Venice, fills the frame wherein should hav^ hung the portrait of Marino Faliero, convicted of treason to the State, and eloquently remarks : "Oh! that such a pall as that which replaces the portrait of Marino Faliero could conceal from history the names of those, once our comrades, who are now in arms against the flag under which we fought side by side in years gone by. But no veil can cover the anguish that fills our hearts when we look back upon the sad memory of the past, and recall the affection and respect we entertained toward men against whom it is our duty to act in mortal combat. Would that the courage, ability, and stead- fastness they displayed, had been employed in the defence of the Stars and Stripes, against a foreign foe, rather than in this fatuitous and unjustifiable rebellion, which could not be so long maintained but for the skill and energy of those, our former comrades." CHAPTER Y. KOUGHING IT ON THE KED RIVEK. Valorous deeds inscribed on the roll of honor McOlellan leaves Mexico Becomes professor and author Ordered to explore the sources of the Red River His companions The start Arrival at the Red River Panther hunt Rush of water Favorable Omen Visit from the Witchitas McClellan traces the hundredth degree of west longitude The Witchita Moun- tains Gold discovered McClellan names " Mount Webster." Comanche trail How Indians travel Boldness of the Delaware guides Buffalo Chase "Wolves and Ravens making merry McClellan searches for the Comanches Mode of encampment A few words about beavers Head of the river discovered Bottle buried Excursion to the Canadian River. npHOUGH McClellan was one of the youngest ** of the American officers engaged in the war in Mexico, he had proved himself to be one of the bravest. It almost invariably falls to the lot of a soldier of the rank he then held merely to obey the orders of his superiors. In this campaign, however, the young officer was ofttimes so situated, that he was com- pelled to act on his own responsibility. That when so placed he acted well, it is but necessary to refer to the tribute which is paid to the discretion and valor he exhibited during the final fight for the Mexican capital. McClellan studied the theory of war whilst he was 84 ROUGHING IT ON THB RED RIVER. at West Point in Mexico, however, he studied it in the more thorough school of experience. The im- portant duties required of the company of engineers to which he belonged, gave him innumerable oppor- tunities of displaying his peculiar talents, whilst the smallness of its numbers necessitated the perform- ance of a greater amount of labor than usually falls to the lot of a lieutenant. Always in the front when the army was on the march ; always under the cover of the enemy's guns when preparations were being made for a siege ; continually making the most daring reconnoissances ; among the first in the breach of Cerro Gordo ; directing and handling Callender's howitzers like an experienced artillerist at Contreras ; performing the most perilous exploits, whilst the army was penetrating to the heart of the Mexican capital - these are valorous deeds which stand chronicled upon the, roll of honor to the credit of the name, Lieutenant George B. McClellan. It cannot then be wondered that all those who had opportunities of witnessing the progress of the young officer, spoke of him in terms of the highest praise, and that competent judges pointed him out as one who would take high rank in his profession, should his country hereafter require his services in the field. The Engineer Company, having performed garrison duty in the city of Mexico for eight months after the capture, left, under McClellan's command, May 23d, PROFESSOR AltfD AUTHOR. 85 1848, on their homeward journey, and marched by the way of Orizaba to Vera Cruz, from whence they sailed for the United States, and arrived at West Point on the twenty-second of June. The year and a half which McClelian had spent in Mexico had been crowded with eventful occurrences, but the four following years of his life were remark- ably barren of interest. Upon his return to West Point, the engineer company was detailed for the performance of such duties connected with the corps, as were required for the instruction of the cadets, and for the construction of permanent fortifications. Captain McClelian now became a field professor, for which both his theoretical and practical experience eminently qualified him. He remained at West Point until 1851, in the double capacity of captain of field labors and instructor of bayonet exercise. With a view to the latter, he prepared from stand- ard French authorities, a "Manual of Bayonet Exercises," a treatise then much required, and which has since become a text-book in the United States army. The efficiency of his instructions in this military arm has been duly acknowledged by the service, and has tended considerably to render it an important weapon in the hands of the soldier. In the summer and fall of 1851, McClelian was engaged in the superintendence of the construction of Fort Delaware, under Major John Sanders. For three ye'ars previous to 1852, Captain Ran- 86 ROUGHING IT ON THE BED EIVER. dolph B. Marcy, of the Fifth United States Infantry, had been occupied in exploring the country lying upon the Canadian river of the Arkansas, and upon the head-waters of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of Texas. On the fifth of March, 1852, he was instructed by the War Department to continue his researches, and " to make an examination of the Red river and the country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources." Captain McClellan was assigned to duty with this expedition, with instructions upon the completion of the field service, to report to Brevet Major-General Smith, the commander of the Eighth Department. Until that time, the district to be explored had re- mained unknown to the civilized world, no white man having ascended the stream to its head. The only knowledge on the subject had been derived from Indians and semi-civilized Indian traders, and of course was of an indefinite, unsatisfactory char- acter. At different periods, both before and after the acquisition of the territory from the French, and up to 1852, enterprising and experienced travellers had attempted an examination of the country em- braced within the basin of the upper Red river, but failed to succeed in reaching the sources. They had invariably been led astray by the Indians, w r ho applied the term "Red River," to each of the many ruddy streams which flow in that region, and thus, COMPANIONS. 87 after incessant toil, discovered, at the close of their labors, that they had been tracing the course of some rirer, different to that which they had intended to survey. Captains Marcy and McClellan's expedition was instructed not only to solve the mystery of the river's birthplace, but to explore the land which lay on either side of its banks, as it travelled from its rugged mountain source to the fertile prairies, that em- braced it as it passed onward to the ocean. Lieu- tenant Updegraff and Doctor Shumard formed part of the expedition, and Captain J. H. Strain and Mr. J. R. Suydam accompanied it in an unofficial capacity. Fifty-five soldiers of Captain Maroy's company formed the escort, and five Indians served as interpreters, guides, and hunters. Captain Marcy's company was stationed at Fort Belknap, upon the Brazos river, and from that place the expedition started on the 2d of May, and on the 13th, reached the point where Cache creek falls into the Red river, at which place the exploration was to commence. The pioneers were detained here one day for the arrival of the supply train from Preston, Texas, and two more for the falling of the water in the creek, which had been swollen by recent rains. Crossing the creek on the morning of the 16th, the route pursued was upon a good road, over a smooth high prairie. In the course of the day the first Indian signs were observed hi several horse 88 ROUGHING IT ON THE KED RIVER. tracks which crossed the path. The Witchita moun- tains soon came in view, situated some twenty-five or thirty miles to the north, and formed a very striking* and prominent feature, rising, as they do, upon the naked prairie. For several days the course of the expedition lay upon high ground a few miles to the north of the Red river, which stream was occasionally visited by Captains Marcy and McClellau, for the purpose of taking observations. The tedium of the journey was enlivened on the I7th, after the animals had been turned out to grass, and the party was re- posing very quietly after the fatigue of the day's march, by the arrival in camp of one of the hunters with the information that a panther had crossed a creek at a place not far distant, and was coming towards the party. No little excitement was created in the quiet circle by this startling intelligence. Muskets, rifles, and whatever weapons came to hand, were instantly seized, and, followed by all the dogs in camp, a general rush was made towards the spot indicated by the Delaware. On reaching the place the animal was easily tracked by the water that had dripped from him after he had crossed the creek. The noses of the dogs were applied to the trail, but neither coaxing, cheering, scolding, nor any canine argument could convince them there was any work of importance to accomplish. However, an old bear dog belonging to the party coming up, soon PANTHER HUNT. 89 sniffed the game, and suddenly stopping, raised his head into the air, sent -forth a prolonged note, and then started off in full cry upon the trail, fol- lowed by the other dogs, who took courage from the presence of the old one. The men immediately followed, cheering them on, and shouting most lustily, each anxious to get the first glimpse of the pan- ther. They soon roused him from his lair, and after making a few circuits around the grove in which they found him, he took to a tree. Captain Marcy was the first to reach the place. He fired a shot at the animal, and brought him to the ground, when the dogs closed in upon him. The rest of the party then came up, and likewise firing, the panther soon lay lifeless upon the sward. At the close of the labors of the day on the 18th, a curious phenomenon occurred which it is interesting to mention. The exploring party encamped upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where on their arrival no water was to be found except in occasional pools along the bed. However, in the course of an hour some of the men who had gone a short distance up the creek came running back into camp, crying at the top of their voices : " Here comes a plenty of water for us, boys !" And, indeed, in a few minutes, much to the astonishment and delight of all, for they were doubtful about obtaining a supply, a perfect torrent came rushing down the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the banks, and continued running, 90 ROUGHING IT ON THE BED RIVER. turbid and covered with froth, as long as the party remained. The Dela wares regarded this as a special favor from the Great Spirit, and looked upon it as a good omen for the success of the enterprise. It was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the past three days had been perfectly dry and the sky cloudless. If the stream had been of much magnitude, the natural conclusion might have been that the water came from a distance where much rain had fallen, but it was very small, extending not more than three miles above the place of encamp- ment. Heavy rain came on the same night and continued for several days, considerably impeding the party in its progress. Deer and antelopes were found in great abundance, and grouse and quail were occa- sionally seen. Buffalos also began to be met with, and were killed by the hunters for the sustenance of the explorers. Captain McClellan had the misfortune, on the 21st, to break his mountain barometer, which he had brought thus far in safety. By some provoking accident, it was turned over in his tent, and the mercurial tube destroyed. Fortunately he had a smaller barometer with him, which he was com- pelled to use during the remainder of the journey. On the 23d of May, a halt, lasting for six days, was made upon the banks of a fine running stream, at a short distance from its confluence with the VISIT FKOM THE WITCHITAS. 91 northern fork of the Red river, and about fifteen miles above the point where two branches of the river join. This delay was caused by the water in Otter creek, the name given by Captain Marcy to the lesser stream, being too high to admit of a safe crossing. Whilst sojourning at this place, a visit Was received from a hunting party of Witchitas about one hundred and fifty in number, who had learned of the coming of the explorers, and were desirous of having "a talk" with the "captain," for the purpose of ascertaining what business had brought the strangers to their country. Some information was obtained from, and some presents were distributed among the Indians, which latter they acknowledged in their customary style by begging for every thing else they saw. These Indians gave a very gloomy account of the district the expedition proposed to survey, and en- deavored to dissuade the explorers from continuing their journey. The description, however, afterwards proved to be a very erroneous one, as the country possessed none of the difficulties and dangers the Indians had foreshadowed. Otter creek was crossed on May 29th, and the course continued along the eastern side of the north fork of the river. Upon this day Captain McClellan was absent from the party, for the purpose of tracing the meridian of the hundredth degree of west longi- tude to where it strikes Red river. At that point a 92 ROUGHING IT ON THE RED RIVER. cottonwood tree,' which stood about fifty feet from the water, upon the summit of a sand hill, was blazed by him on four sides with the following inscrip- tions : Upon the north side, " Texas, 100 longitude;" upon the south side, "Choctaw nation, 100 longi- tude;" upon the east side, "Meridian of 100, May 29th, 1852;" and upon the west side, Captain Marcy's name and the date. He also marked one of four similar trees, which stood at the base of the sand hill, " Texas," and upon another he inscribed, " 20 miles from Otter creek." For a couple of days after leaving Otter creek, the expedition passed along the base of the southwest end of the Witchita chain of mountains, which runs for sixty miles in a southeasterly direction from this point. Specimens of black quartz and black sand collected in the mountains were discovered to contain small quantities of gold, similar to that found in California. On June 1st, a very prominent and symmetrical mountain, which had been visible for twenty miles upon the route, and formed a most excellent landmark, was ascended by several gentlemen connected with the expedition, for the purpose of making barometrical observations. Its altitude was ascertained to be seven hundred and eighty *feet above the base. Captain McClellan named it "Mount Webster," in honor of our great statesman, and chiseled the names of some of the party upon a rock directly at the summit. HOW INDIANS TRAVEL. 93 After passing through a rough and tortuous gorge, the party descended into a plain where they found the river * again divided into two nearly equal branches. Leaving the southern one, which flowed directly from the west, they continued their journey along the northern branch. Proceeding amid beau- tiful and majestic scenery and over charming glades clothed with luxuriant sward, the expedition, on June 3d, crossed to the western bank of the north fork. Hence they proceeded in a northwesterly direction, over a very elevated and undulating prairie, capturing deer by the way. The explorers recrossed the river on the fifth. In their journey during the two previous days, they had cut off a bend of the stream; consequently, when they re- crossed it, they were on its northern bank. On June 6th, they came upon the trail of a large party of Comanches, which the guide reported to have passed two days before, going south. The Indians appeared to have been travelling with their families. Upon a war expedition they leave the latter be- hind, and never carry lodges, encumbering them- selves with as little baggage as possible. On the other hand, when travelling with their families, they always carry all their wordly effects, including their portable lodges, wherever they go ; and as they seldom find an encampment upon the prairies where poles for the frame-work of the lodges can be procured, they invariably transport them from place 94 ROUGHING IT ON THE BED 11IVEB. to place, by attaching them to each side of the pack- horses, with one end trailing upon the ground. These leave parallel marks upon the soft earth after they have passed, and enable persons at once to determine whether the trail is made by a war-party or otherwise. Though for the past year an unfriendly feeling had existed between the Comanches and the Dela- wares, the guides were not afraid to go out alone on their hunting excursions, frequently to the distance of seven or eight miles from the camp. Should they, on these occasions, have met with any of their enemies, they would have been compelled to act upon the defensive, as, from being poorly mounted, they would have found it difficult to escape. The bold fellows declared that they were not afraid to meet any of the prairie Indians, pro- vided the odds were not greater than six to one. On the morning of the Yth of June, whilst Captain Marcy, with two of the Indians, were about three miles in advance of McClellan and the rest of the party, they struck a fresh -buffalo track, which they followed in the hope of coming up with the animal. Approaching an eminence upon the prairie, one of the Indians, named John Bull, was sent to the top, about a quarter of a mile distant, to look out for the game. He had no sooner gained the summit than he made a signal for his two companions to join him, by riding round rapidly several times in a circle, after BUFFALO CHASE. 95 which he started at full speed over the hill. Captain Marcy and the other Indian, upon reaching the crest of the hill, discovered the terrified animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John Bull in hot pursuit, about five hundred yards behind him. As the cap- tain followed on down the slope, he had a fine view of the chase. The Delaware was mounted upon a most fractious and spirited horse that had never seen a buffalo before. On coming near the animal the horse was perfectly frantic with fear, and made several desperate starts to the right and left, any one of which must have evidently unseated his rider, had he not been a very expert and skilful horseman. During the time that the horse was thus plunging and making efforts to escape, John was not only able to control him with masterly adroitness, but seizing an opportunity, discharged his rifle at the buffalo, and broke one of the fore-legs, which somewhat retarded his speed. The animal, however, still kept on, making good running, and it required all the strength of the horses ridden by Captain Marcy and the other Indian to bring them up to him. But before they arrived, John reloaded his rifle, and had placed its contents directly behind the shoulder of the buffalo. Still, so tenacious of life was the latter, that it was not until the other Delaware and Captain Marcy arrived and gave him four additional shots that he was brought to the ground. The best part of the flesh being packed upon the horses for food, 96 HOUGHING IT ON THE RED RIVER. the aptain and his companions proceeded ID search of good water near which they could next encamp, and for which purpose they had set out. Having discovered a sp ring-brook, they returned to their friends, and on the way back discerned a pack of wolves with a multitude of ravens making merry over the carcass of the buffalo they had killed. Being desirous of making inquiries of the Co- manches concerning the onward route, and thinking they might possibly have encamped within a few miles of the explorers, Captain McClellan, accom- panied by an interpreter, proceeded the same day in search of them. After going about fifteen miles, he found one of their camps that had been abandoned two days previous ; and then, as there appeared to be no prospect of overtaking them, he returned, having first ascertained that they were travelling in a south- erly direction toward the Brazos river. It may be interesting to describe the usual method of encampment, adopted by Captains Marcy and McClellan during their expedition. They usually chose the inside of the curve of a creek, within which the wagons and tents were placed in a semicir- cle, uniting at each extremity with the creek. A large circular space was hereby enclosed sufficient for the command, protected on one side by the creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. Immediately upon reaching the encamping ground, all the animals were turned out to graze under COLONY OF BEAVEES. 97 charge of teamsters, who were armed and remained constantly with them, keeping them as near the command as the supply of grass admitted. It was customary to commence the day's march about three o'clock in the morning, and to terminate it by eleven o'clock ; this gave ample time for the animals to graze before night, when they were driven into camp. The horses and mules were picketed in the enclosure, whilst the oxen were tied up to the wagons. Sentinels were then posted upon each side of the encampment, and kept constantly walking in such directions that they could have the animals continually in view. The course taken after crossing to the north side of the river was in a westerly direction, and cool and bracing winds tended considerably to the com- fort of the travellers. Fresh Indian trails were crossed, which from the absence of lodge poles were pronounced to have been made by war parties. One of the guides also observed four Indians upon a hill in the distance, taking a look at the explorers, but * upon seeing him they immediately turned away and galloped off. Near the place where Captain McClellan and his companions encamped on June 12th, a community of beavers had selected a spot upon a creek for their wonderful labors and habitations. The description of these marvellous animals, given in the Report of the exploration of the Red river is so remarkably interest- 98 ROUGHING IT ON THE RED RaVE.1l. ing, that we are sure our readers will thank us for inserting it here. Its author says : "I know of no animal concerning which the accounts of travellers have been more extraordinary, more marvellous or contradictory, than those given of the beaver. By some he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a level with man. He has been said, for instance, to construct houses, with several floors and rooms ; to plaster the rooms with mud in such a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six or eight inches in diameter into the ground, and to per- form many other astounding feats, which I am inclined to believe are not supported by credible testimony. Laying aside these questionable state- ments, there is quite sufficient in the natural history of the beaver to excite our wonder and admiration. For instance, at this place, upon an examination of the dam they have constructed, I was both aston- ished and delighted at the wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they have displayed. In the selection of a suitable site, and in the erection of the structure, they appear to have been guided by some- thing more than mere animal instinct, and have exhibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and the action of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scientific millwright would have done. " Having chosen a spot where the banks on each side of the creek were narrow and sufficiently high ABOUT BEAVERS. 99 to raise a head of about five feet, they selected two cotton-wood trees about fifteen inches in diameter, situated above this point, and having an inclination towards the stream ; these they cut down with their teeth (as the marks upon the stumps plainly showed), and, floating them down to the position chosen for the dam, they were placed across the stream with an inclination downward, uniting in the center. This formed the foundation upon which the superstruc- ture of brush and earth was placed, in precisely the same manner as a brush-dam is made by our mill- wrights, with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is raised to a sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, except in the centre, where there is a sluice or waste-wier, which lets off the superfluous water when it rises so high as to endanger the structure. " In examining the results of the labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me that the plan of erecting our brush-dams must have been, originally suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are very similar. I watched for some time upon the banks of the pond, but could see none of the animals. I presume they think we make too much noise in owr camp to suit them, and deem it most prudent to remain concealed in their sub- marine houses. " I observed one place above the pond where they 100 ROUGHING IT ON THE BED RIVER. had commenced another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut down two trees on the opposite sides of the creek ; but as they did not fall in the right direc- tion to suit their purposes, the work was abandoned." The explorers were now approaching the source of the north branch of the Red river, and after passing over a sandy soil, on June 15th they crossed to the southern side of the stream, a few miles below its rise. On the following day they reached the head of this branch. It was discovered in a deep gorge among high bluffs which rose to an elevation of three hundred feet, and terminated at the top in a perfectly level plain, termed the Llano JEstacado, or Staked Plain. A grove of large cotton- wood trees was found near to the spot where the water showed the earliest signs of life, and first became a running stream. Under the roots of one of the trees which stood near the river, and below all the others in the grove, a bottle was imried con- taining the following memorandum : " On the 16th day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, composed of Captain R. B. Marcy, Cap- tain G. B. McClellan, Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Dr. G. C. Shumard, with fifty-five men of Company D, Fifth Infantry, encamped here, having this day traced the north branch of Red river to its sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. Strain, of Fort Washita, and Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city." The tree was also blazed on the DISTANCE TRAVELLED. 101 north and east sides, and marked upon the north side with a pencil as follows: "Exploring Expedition, June 16th, 1852." Captain McClellan and a greater part of the expe- dition remained for three days at .this point, until Captain Marcy and a small party made an excursion, twenty-five miles to the north, for the purpose of visiting the Canadian river, which had been ascended by Captain Marcy in 1849, and it was calculated would be found at that distance. They had the satisfaction of ascertaining this calculation w,-is cor- rect a source of much congratulation, as it verified the accuracy of their survey. The distance which the expedition had already travelled was, from Fort Belknap to the mouth of Cache creek, one hundred and twenty miles, and from the latter point to the head of the north fork of the Red river, two hundred and thirty-seven miles making a total of three hundred and fifty- seven miles. CHAPTER VI. PEAIEIE -DOG-TOWN BIVEE EXPLOBED. Southward bound "McClellan's Creek" Remarkable mirage Source of the Salt Fork Indian battle-ground Prairie-Dog- Town Immense population Domestic arrangements of the animals A surprise McClellan's encounter with a panther Deer-bleat Nauseous water Extreme thirst" Sickness Value of iced drinks Head of the river Magnificent scenery Bears Panther shot Homeward journey Catching a Tartar "Mount Scott" Romantic valley Deserted Indian villages Beauty of their position Waco and Witchita villages False rumors of the massacre of McClellan and his companions Bargaining for a prisoner Arrival at Fort Arbuckle Return home McClellan's services warmly acknowledged. head of the north branch of the Red river -*- having been discovered, it next became the duty of Captains Marcy and McClellan, and the ex- ploring expedition under their command, to search for the source of the southern, or principal branch. The Indians call this latter "Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no," or Prai- rie-dog-town river a title doubtless given to it on account of the number of prairie-dog towns found in its vicinity. On June 20th, the pioneers left the head of the north branch, where they had rested three days, and turned their steps in a southerly direction. " M'CLELLAN'S CREEK." 103 After proceeding twelve miles on the first day's journey, the expedition reached the valley of a very beautiful stream, twenty feet wide arid six inches in depth, running rapidly over a gravelly bed. This valley was about a mile wide, with large cotton- wood trees growing along the banks of the stream. Captain Marcy says, in his report: "I have called this 'McClellan's creek, 1 in compliment to my friend Captain McClellan, whom I believe to have been the first white man that ever set eyes upon it." The water of the creek was pure and palatable. A remarkable atmospherical phenomenon was wit- nessed the same day upon the "Llano estacado," or plateau, over which the travellers were now journey- ing. We will describe it in the words of the Report : "During the middle of the day, when the earth and the adjacent strata of air had become heated by the almost vertical rays of the sun, we observed, as usual, upon the 'Llano estacado,' an incessant tremulous motion in the lower strata of the atmos- phere, accompanied by a most singular and illusive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly deluded the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many other places, is here seen in perfection. "The very extraordinary refraction of the atmos- phere upon these elevated plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be distorted into the most wild and fantastic forms, and often exaggerated to many times their true size. A raven, for instance, would 104 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. present the appearance of a man walking erect ; and an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo. In passing along over this thirsty and extended plain on a warm day, the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appearance of a beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly upon the opposite bank. His heart beats with joy at the prospect of speedily luxuriating in the cool and delicious element before him, and he urges his horse forward, thinking it very strange that he does not reach the oasis. At one time he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness ; then again he fancies that the object recedes before him, and he becomes discouraged and disheartened. And thus he rides for miles and miles, and still finds him- self no nearer the goal than when he first saw it when, perhaps, some sudden change in the atmos- phere would dissipate the illusion, and disclose to him the fact that he had been following a mirage/' On their way, the explorers surveyed the source of the central branch of the Red river, or Salt Fork, .the junction of which with' the North Fork, it will be remembered, was passed shortly after they com- menced to ascend the latter stream. The course of this branch was not explored, but the travellers traced it from the point where it was now struck to the head. A deserted Indian encampment was discovered, A CANINE CITY. 105 where a battle had obviously been fought not two months before. The evidence of this was found in the remains of a large fire in which the victors had piled up and burnt the lodges and effects of the vanquished, and in unconsumed articles pertaining to Indian do- mestic economy that lay scattered around. The route for some days lay among high bluffs, after which it descended into the valley of the south- ern branch of the river. This valley is populous with prairie dogs. The road for a whole day would pass through a, continuous dog town, and the travellers were often obiiged to turn out of their course to avoid the mounds that lay about the burrows. Captain Marcy thus describes one of these canine cities : " In passing along through these villages the little animals are seen in countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of their domicils, presenting much the appearance of stumps of small trees ; and so incessant is the clatter of their barking, that it requires but little effort of the imagination to fancy oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city. "The immense number of animals in some of these towns, or warrens, may be conjectured from the large space which they sometimes cover. The one at this place is about twenty-five miles in the direction through which we have passed it. Sup- posing its dimensions in other directions to be the same, it would embrace an area of six hundred and 5* 106 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOAVN RIVEK EXPLORED. twenty-five square miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres.* Estimating the holes to be at the usual distance of about twenty yards apart, and each burrow occupied by a family of four or five dogs, I fancy that the aggregate population would be greater than any other city in the universe. f "This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mammalia of our country, which is found assembled in such vast communities, is indigenous to the most of our far western prairies, from Mexico to the northern limits of the United States, and has often been described by travellers who have been upon the plains. But as there are some facts in relation to their habits, which I have never seen mentioned in any published account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a few remarks to what has already been said. In the selection of a site or position for their towns they appear to have a regard to their food, which is a species of short, wiry grass, growing upon the elevated plains, where there is often no water near. I have sometimes seen their towns upon the elevated table-lands of New Mexico, where there was no water upon the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where it did not seem * The number of acres here given is incorrect. The square miles mentioned would only contain four hundred thousand acres. \ A single dog town of the size named, with an average of five members to each family, would be inhabited by twenty- five millions two hundred thousand dogs, being a number equal to more than three-fourths the population of the United States. HABITS OP PKAIRIE-DOGS. 107 probable that it could be obtained by excavating to the depth of a hundred feet. This has induced me to believe that they do not require that element without which most other animals perish in a short time. "As there are generally no rains or dews during the summer months upon the plains where these towns are found, and as the animals never wander far from home, I think I am warranted in coming to the conclusion that they require no water beyond that which the grass affords them. That they hyber- nate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid state is evident, from the fact that they lay up no susten- ance for the winter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the autumn, the earth freezes hard and renders it utterly impossible for them to procure food in the usual manner. " When the prairie-dog first feels the approach of the sleeping season (generally about the last days of October), he closes all the passages to his dormitory to exclude the cold ^iir, and betakes himself to his brumal slumber with the greatest possible care. He remains housed until the warm days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his door and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever. " I have been informed by the Indians that a short time before a cold storm in the autumn, all the prairie- dogs may be seen industriously occupied with weeds and earth, closing the entrances to their burrows. 108 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. They are sometimes, however, seen re-opening them while the weather is still cold and stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to follow. "It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quadrupeds when to expect good or bad weather, and to make their arrangements accord- ingly. A species of small owl is always found in the dog-towns, sitting at the mouths of the holes when not occupied by the dogs; whether for the purpose of procuring food, or for some other object, I do not know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, burrow with the flogs ; and when approached, instead of entering the holes, they in- variably fly away. It has also been said that the rattlesnake is a constant companion of the dog ; but this is a mistake, for I have sometimes passed -for days through the towns without seeing one. They are, however, often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it has been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with the proprietors of the establishments ; but we have satisfied ourselves that this is a domestic arrangement entirely at variance with the wishes of the dogs, as the snakes prey upon them, and must be considered as intruders. They are probably attracted to the burrows for the pur- pose of procuring food, as one snake which we killed was found to have swallowed a full-grown dog." On June 27th, the southern branch of the Red river was reached at a point where it was nine hun- A SURPRISE. 109 dred yards wide, flowing over a sandy bed and with little water in the channel. The river was here lined upon each side by rugged bills and deep gullies. June 28th, as Captain McClellan and his colleague, Captain Marcy, were passing under the bluffs, they noticed in advance of them a herd of antelopes feed- ing among some mezquite trees. The idea irnme- "diately occurred to the latter of attempting to call them with a deer-bleat, which one of the Delawares had made for him. Captain Marcy accordingly ad- vanced several hundred yards to near the crest of a hill which afforded a fair view of the animals ; and very deliberately seating himself upon the ground, screened from their observation by the tall grass, he took up the bleat and commenced exercising his powers in imitation of the fawn's cry. Captain Marcy soon succeeded in attracting the attention of the antelopes, and in a short time de- coyed one of the unsuspicious animals within the range of his rifle. Taking deliberate aim, he was in the act of pulling the trigger, when his attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly arrested by a rustling in the grass to his left. Casting his eyes in that direction, he with no small astonishment saw but twenty steps distant a tremendous panther bounding at full speed towards him. Abandoning the antelope, as may be imagined, Captain Marcy immediately directed his rifle at the panther and sent a ball through his chest, which 110 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLOHLfD. stretched him upon the grass at ten yards from where he had taken his position. Impressed with the belief that he had accomplished a feat of rather more than ordinary importance in the sporting line, the Captain placed his hands to his mouth, a la sauvage, and gave several shouts of exultation as loud as his weak lungs would permit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to his feelings of tri- umph, and partly with the object of calling Captain McClellan, who had remained with the horses at some distance in the background. As McClellan did not hear the call, Captain Marcy went for him, and upon returning to the place where the panther had been shot, they discovered the animal on his feet and making off. Captain McClellan im- mediately gave him the contents of his rifle, and then closing clubbed him with the butt end. It re- quired, however, several vigorous blows to finish him. The panther was a large specimen of the species known as the North American cougar, and measured eight feet from the nose to the end of the tail. He had probably heard the bleat, and was hastening towards it with the pleasant anticipation of -break- fasting upon a tender fawn. The deer-bleat is used extensively by the Dela- wares in their hunting excursions, for the pur- pose of enticing the animals towards them. It is somewhat similar to the first joint of a clarionet, THE DEER-BLEAT. Ill with a brass reed adjusted in such a manner, that, when sounded, it imitates almost precisely the cry of the young fawn. As will be seen in Captain Marcy's case, its use requires great precaution on the part of the hunter, the bear, the wolf, and the panther often answering to the sound. The travellers having ascended the river eight miles above the point where they first struck it, found that the rocky character of the country rendered it impossible for the wagons to proceed to the head- waters. Therefore, the main body of the command was left on June 29th, under charge of Lieutenant Updegraff, whilst Captains Marcy and McClellan, with a small escort of ten men, proceeded to explore the stream to its source. They took with them pro- visions for six days packed on mules. The water they were compelled to drink during a portion of the expedition was so nauseating that it produced sickness of the stomach, attended with loss of appetite and the most raging and feverish thirst. This thirst increased the desire for the water, which, in turn, added to instead of alleviated their sufferings. As the result of drinking the repul- sive fluid, several of the party were taken with violent cramps in the stomach and vomiting. Yet they did not murmur, but, on the contrary, were cheerful, and indulged in frequent jokes at the ex- pense of those who were sick. Curiously enough, the principal topic of conversation turned upon a 112 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWN EIVER EXPLORED. discussion on the relative merits of fancy iced drinks, and the prices that would readily be paid for some of them if they were within reach. One of the party was willing to give as high as two thousand dollars for a single bucket of pure water. Cap- tain Marcy, when he retired to rest, had his slum- bers continually disturbed by dreams, in which he failcied himself swallowing huge draughts of ice- water. After the first day's journey the banks of the river became so precipitous, that the travellers were com- pelled to take to the bed of the stream. High bluffs that had first been seen at some distance to the south, gradually approached the river as they ascended it. On the third day, July 1st, a point was reached where the stream was contracted into a narrow channel of only twenty feet in width. Here its bed, which, with a single rocky exception at Jones- borough, in Texas, is throughout its entire course of sand, suddenly changed to rock, with the water, before turbid, flowing clearly and rapidly over it, and, much to the relief of the party, free from nauseous taste. Following for two miles the tor- tuous course of the gorge, a point was reached where it became so much obstructed with huge piles of rock, that the explorers were compelled to leave their animals, and clamber up the remainder of the distance on foot. The head of the Red river was at length reached. I HEAD OF THE RIVER. 113 Captains Marcy and McClellan and their hardy com- panions had now arrived at the goal, for the attain- ment of which they had laboriously toiled and suffered many privations. The author's pen cannot depict the view here opened to the eyes of these pioneers, nor can his words describe their feelings on witnessing it, in language equal to that inspired by the situation. We therefore cull from Captain Marcy's journal the graphic sketch he made when the subject matter was vivid to his eye. "The gigantic escarpments of sandstone, rising to the giddy height of eight hundred feet upon each side, gradually closed in until they were only a few yards apart and finally united overhead, leaving a long, narrow corridor beneath, at the base of which the head spring of the principal or main branch of Red river takes its rise. This spring bursts out from its cavernous reservoir, and, leaping down over the huge masses of rock below, here commences its long journey to unite with other tributaries in making the Mississippi the noblest river in the universe. Directly at the spring we found three small cotton-wood trees, one of which was blazed, and the fact of our having visited the place, with the date, marked upon it. " On beholding this minute rivulet as it wends its tortuous course down the steep descent of the canon, it is difficult to realize that it forms the germ of one of the largest and most important rivers in America H4i PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN KIVEK EXPLORED. floating steamers upon its bosom for nearly two thousand miles, and depositing an alluvion along its borders which renders its valley unsurpassed for fertility. " We took many copious draughts of the cool and refreshing water in the spring, and thereby con- sidered ourselves, with the pleasure we received from the beautiful and majestic scenery around us, amply remunerated for all our fatigue and privations. The magnificence of the views that presented them- selves to our eyes as we approached the head of the river, exceeded any thing I had ever beheld. It is impossible for me to describe the sensations that came over me, and the exquisite pleasure I expe- rienced, as I gazed upon these grand and novel pic- tures. "The stupendous escarpments of solid rock, rising precipitously from the bed of the river to such a height as, for a great portion of the day, to exclude the rays of the sun, were worn away, by the lapse of time and the action of the water and the weather, into the most fantastic forms, that required but little effort of the imagination to convert into works of art, and all united in forming one of the grandest and most picturesque scenes that can be imagined. We all, with one accord, stopped and gazed with wonder and admiration upon a panorama which was now for the first time exhibited to the eyes of civilized man. Occasionally might be seen a good MAGNIFICENT SCENE. 115 representation of the towering walls of a castle of the feudal ages, with its giddy battlements pierced with loop-holes, and its projecting watch-towers standing out in bold relief upon the azure ground of the pure and transparent sky above. In other places our fancy would metamorphose the escarp- ments into a bastion front, as perfectly modelled and constructed as if it had been a production of the genius of Yauban, with redoubts and salient angles all arranged in due order. Then, again, we would see a colossal specimen of sculpture representing the human figure, with all the features of the face, which, standing upon its lofty pedestal, overlooks the valley, and seems to have been designed and executed by the Almighty Artist as the presiding genius of these dismal solitudes. "All here was crude nature, as it sprung into existence at the fiat of the Almighty Architect of the universe, still preserving its primeval type, its unre- claimed sublimity and wildness ; and it forcibly inspired me with that veneration which is justly due to the high antiquity of nature's handiworks, and which seems to increase as we consider the solemn and important lesson that is taught us in reflecting upon their continued permanence when con- trasted with our own fleeting and momentary exist- ence. On climbing up to the summit of the escarpment over^the head of the spring, we found ourselves upon 116 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. the level plain of the ' Llano estacado,' which spreads out from here, in one uninterrupted desert, to the base of the mountains east of the Rio Grande." McClellan and his friends returned to their com- panions in camp on the 3d of July, having been absent but four days. Dining their excursion to the head of the river they had observed several bears, two of which they killed, and John Bull had a brush with a large one, but his fractious horse would not allow him to get near the animal, consequently he escaped. The loss of the favorite bear-dog, which had occurred a few days before, now rendered it very difficult to hunt down that game, and necessarily de- prived the travellers of much bear-meat, which they would otherwise have obtained. The distance travelled to the head of the river was sixty-five miles, for sixty of which the stream ran through a deep defile, with the rocks on either side rising from five to eight hundred feet. On the morning of July 4th, the explorers turned their faces homewards. That day, whilst Captains Marcy and McClellan were riding in advance of the command, on approaching a pond of clear water, they spied a huge panther very leisurely walking away in an opposite direction. Having, in hunter's parlance, the "wind of him," they were enabled to ride sufficiently near to give him a shot before he discovered them. The ball took effect; he made HOMEWARD MARCH. 117 a high leap, ran a short distance, and then fell dead. The homeward route lay for a few miles on the south bank of the river, when, from the broken nature ^f the ground in front, it was transferred to the northern side. The explorers at first found a most excellent road over smooth prairie, a few miles from the stream. Their path, however, was after- wards intersected by numerous abrupt ravines that considerably impeded their progress. The country here was almost destitute of wood or palatable water. One day, Captain Marcy, as he was riding at a distance from the train, observed three Indians, who immediately moved out of view in a ravine, and were not afterwards seen. The Witchita moun- tains, passed in the western journey, soon became visible in the distance. On July 12th the north branch of the Red river was again reached, and after a day's rest the com- mand crossed it on the 14th. Starting before day- light on the 15th, a course was taken to the north of that by which the explorers had reached this point in their outward journey. It skirted the southeast- ern base of the Witchita mountains, and passed through mezquite groves, intersected with several brooks of pure water, that was truly grateful to the thirsty wanderers after the nauseous liquid they had been compelled for many days to drink. On the 15th, Bushman, the interpreter, whilst call- 118 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWX RIVER EXPLORED. ing a, doe towards him with a deer-bleat, observed a small fawn following its mother, and, to his astonish- ment, a huge panther bounding rapidly towards the little one. In a twinkling the savage brute fastened bis claws in the vitals of his victim ; but in this instance he caught a tartar, and paid dearly for his temerity, as John, with a spirit of indignation, raised his rifle and planted its contents in the panther's side. The course was on- the 18th changed to the north, and the wagon train taken with much difficulty through a gap or pass in the first chain of the moun- tains. On reaching the open prairie beyond, the explorers found themselves on the banks of a large stream, where they made their encampment. The position was directly at the base of the most elevated mountain of the Witchita range, which was christened " Mount Scott," in honor of the distin- guished soldier of that name. The peak rises to an altitude of eleven hundred and thirty-five feet above its base, and towers over all the surrounding emi- nences. It presents a very imposing feature in the landscape, and is a conspicuous landmark for many miles around. Mount Scott ! fitting name for such a majestic height. On the north of this peak lies a most beautiful and romantic valley, about three miles wide, and enclosed between two ranges of mountains. Through its centre winds a lovely stream of pure water, fifty yards across, and two feet deep, with gigantic trees DESERTED VILLAGES. 119 fringing it on either side. The lively current courses wildly over an almost continuous succession of rapids. This creek was crossed and the route continued through a beautiful country, in which two deserted Indian villages were found. These villages had been formerly peopled by the Witchitas and Keechies, and several of the lodges were still standing, with old corn-fields near by. McClellan and his companions encamped, on July 19th, not far from the Witchita village. Here these Indians had lived and planted corn for several years. They appeared to have exhibit- ed much taste and judgment in the selection of the site for their town. It was situated at the enstern extremity of the mountains, upon a plateau skirting the creek, and about a hundred feet above it, com- manding an extensive view of the country north, south, and east. From its elevated position, the village was well secured against surprise, and nature had made it a most defensible spot. The landscape presented a charming diversity of scenery, consisting of mountains, woodlands, glades, water-courses, and prairies, all laid out and arranged in such peculiar order that the senses were bewitched by the spectacle. The Indians had only deserted the place about two years previous to the visit of the explorers, and the reason for abandoning so lovely a locality can only be accounted for through fear of the hostile Comanches. The eastern extremity of the Witchita mountains 120 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. was left behind, and as the travellers bent their way towards the rising sun, they passed through a country where bounteous nature seemed to have strewn heiV favors with a lavish hand, and to have held out every inducement for civilized man to occupy it. On July 22d, shortly after emerging from a forest through which the road had passed for five miles, the exploring party suddenly came in sight of several squaws busily collecting grass in a beautiful meadow. The latter no sooner espied the pioneers than they jumped upon their horses and prepared to make off. At the command of the interpreter, however, the greater part of them remained, only one or two galloping away to their village to give notice of the strangers' approach The Indians proved to be Wacos and Witchitas, whose villages were abo^t four miles in advance. The white men were invited to visit them, and found them to be situated about a mile apart upon the banks of Rush creek. The command encamped about half a mile down the valley. An inquisitive crowd of men imme- diately flocked to the camp, and expressed anxiety to learn where the expedition had come from, and whether any Comanches had been seen. The Indians appeared delighted at the visit, being doubtless in anticipation of receiving presents. The Witchita village consisted of forty-two lodges, and the Waco of twenty, each lodge containing two families of about ten persons. The habitations, WACOS AND WITCHITAS. 1-1 when seen from a distance, had all the appearance of a group of hay-stacks. They were of a conical shape, about twenty-five feet in diameter at the base and twenty feet high. The interior was com- modious and comfortable, and the people, when seated around the fire in the centre of their lodges, presented an air of domestic happiness which the travellers hardly expected to find. Corn, pumpkins, beans, peas, and melons, were the principal pro- duce of their fields, and the buffalo and the deer furnished them with meat and clothing. They principally used the bow and arrow for killing game, only a small number possessing rifles, \vith which they were good shots. The two tribes were amica- ble neighbors, and frequently intermarried. Much to the surprise of the explorers, the Wit- chitas informed them a report had been made, by a Keechi Indian, to the commanding officer of Fort Arbuckle, to the effect that the whole party had been overpowered and massacred by the Co- manches, near the head of Red river. The account given was so circumstantial and minute in every particular, showing such a perfect knowledge of all the movements of the expedition, with its num- bers and equipment, that the report must have been fabricated by persons who had kept near the party and watched its progress. This was con- sidered to account for the fact of the Indians avoid- ing the explorers upon all occasions. Although r> 122 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. the latter had now and then seen small numbers, and had frequently passed camps abandoned but a short time before, yet, with the exception of the Witchitas, whom they met at an early stage of their journey, none ever came to, or communi- cated with them. The expedition was probably considered a hostile one, visiting their country for the purpose of chastising them for their depreda- tions; and they may have thought that the report of the massacre would deter other parties from following in their wake. This report had speedily found its way to the sea- board States, and caused great grief to the friends of Captain McClellan, who for several weeks mourned him as dead. We can readily imagine their joy on afterwards ascertaining the falsity of the statement. Before leaving the vicinity of these Indian vil- lages, the chiefs of the two were sent for, in order that they might be persuaded to surrender two Mex- ican prisoners in their possession one a man about forty years of age, and the other a boy of about fifteen. A treaty recently entered into with the Mexicans rendered it obligatory, on the part of the United States, to give up all prisoners found in the hands of Indians in their territory. The man stated that he had been with the Witchitas since he was a child; that he was not now disposed to leave them; that he had become as great a rascal as any of the BARGAINING FOR A PRISONER. 123 Indians a statement readily believed and that he should not feel at home anywhere else. With such a confession it was considered unadvisable to dis- turb his happiness. The boy, on the contrary, had been with them only a few months. He had been kidnapped from his home near Chihuahua by the Kioways, who had treated him so brutally that he made his escape and found his way to the Witchita mountains, where a Witchita hunter discovered him in a nearly famished state. Although kindly treated where he was, he ex- pressed an anxious desire to be taken away. For a long time the chiefs hesitated to give him up, stating that he belonged to a Waco who loved him so much that it was doubtful if he could be persuaded to part with him. The chiefs were told that if they released the boy quietly they would be rewarded, but that if they insisted upon holding him, ho would be taken from them by force, and no presents would be given in return. This threat induced them to promise his release, on condition that a few presents should also be made to the family that had adopted him. The presents were distributed, and possession taken of the boy, who was reluctantly turned over by the Indians, divested of the few rags of covering that had hung about his person. The young Mexican consequently made his exit from the Witchita nation in the same garb as that in which he entered the world. He was soon completely clothed, and ap- 124 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. peared much delighted with the change. He was then placed in charge of Captain McClellan, who engaged to take him to San Antonio, and communi- cate with his relatives in Mexico. A rain-stofm compelled the expedition to remain near the Indian villages until the second day after their arrival. When the Witchitas had been left ten miles in the rear, it was discovered that, in the characteristic style of the hospitality of these people, they had abstracted from one of the wagons several articles which they probably supposed would be more useful to them, than to the legitimate owners. Unfortunately, the distance traversed from the village when the discovery was made, was too far to admit of a return for the purpose of demanding restitution. The Mexican boy, who appeared to be very intelligent, and could read and write his own language, stated that before he left the Indians he was advised to seize the first opportunity to steal one of the horses, on which he should make his escape and return to them. Four days further travel, devoid of interest, brought the wanderers to the borders of civilization. The train started as early as one o'clock on the morning of July 28th, and at daylight the explorers inarched into Fort Arbuckle, in the Indian Territory, where their friends, who believed they had been all mas- sacred by the Comanches, were much astonished and delighted at their appearance. THE JOURNEY FINISHED. J 25 The exploring expedition was now at an end. From leaving Fort Belknap to the arrival at Fort Arbuckle, eighty-seven days had been consumed in its researches. After a few days rest at the latter place, the infantry company returned to its station at Fort Belknap, under the charge of Lieutenant Up- degraff. Captain Marcy, in accordance with instruc- tions, proceeded to Washington to prepare his re- port ; Captain McClellan to the head-quarters of the eighth department, and the other gentlemen of the party to their respective homes. Not a man had perished in the expedition, and, with the exception of two cases of scurvy, there had been no sickness of consequence. Not even an animal had died, or had been lost by straying away ; but, on the contrary, Jbhe party had the especial good fortune of adding three horses found upon the plains to the number with which it had commenced the march. In fact, all the animals, and particularly the oxen, had gained in robustness by their summer ex- cursion. Captain Marcy, in his report of the expedition, expresses the sincere regret he felt at parting with his companions, who for about a thousand miles had wandered with him through regions heretofore un- trodden by civilized man. He pays a high tribute to the manner in which all performed the arduous duties assigned to them, and to the cheerful spirit exhibited, when wearied by long marches, or com- 126 PRAIRIE-DOG-TOWN RIVER EXPLORED. pelled to drink disgusting waters. To the harmo- nious action of all engaged in the expedition he attributes its fortunate results. Of the subject of our work he remarks: "The astronomical observations were made by Captain George B. McClellan, of the Engineer corps, who, in addition to the duties properly pertaining to his department, performed those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An interesting collec- tion of reptiles and other specimens, in alcohol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smith- sonian Institution. For these and many other im- portant services, as well as for his prompt and effi- cient co-operation in whatever was necessary for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe- dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest acknowledgment." COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS. 127 CHAPTER VII. COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS. Proceeds to Texas Brazos revisited Recollections of the past Galveston The Pirate Lafitte Indianola/ Resemblance to a European city Corpus Christi General Taylor's old camp- ing-ground Beauty of the country San Antonio Its mixed population Heroic defence of Travis Variety of buildings A gushing spring Luxurious bathing An ungrlteful protege Summoned to Washington. T~N" compliance with the instructions contained 'in -*- the order assigning Captain McClellan to duty with the Red river expedition, he proceeded, on the completion of the survey of that stream, by the way of New Orleans, to report to the commander of the eighth military department, comprising the State of Texas. This officer was General Persifor F. Smith, whose foresight and gallantry in Mexico, it will be remembered, led to the brilliant assault and splendid victory of Contreras. Under him McClellan had braved the brief but terrific battle- storm that burst over that volcanic height. He was .now to return under his command, but to labor in a more pacific cause, and contend for honor in a more pacific field. On September 28th, 1852, he was ordered to survey the bars on the coast of Texas, from Paso 128 COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS. Cavallo to the mouth of the Rio Grande, with the harbors of Brazos-Santiago, Corpus Christi, and Aranzas, and the inland channel to Matagorda Bay. McClellan's first visit to Brazos-Santiago had been in the capacity of the youngest officer in the youngest company in the service. Just six years had passed, and he revisited it in charge of an expedition intrusted with important operations. What recol- lections are called forth in the reviewal of a spot impressed upon one's memory by the associations of earlier Hays ! How the mind wanders over the period that has elapsed, and reverts to the many incidents that have occurred in the onward march of time from the starting point recalled to the thoughts ! When McClellau looked upon the place where, half a dozen years before, he had landed an almost unknown subaltern, his mind must rapidly have run over his many achievements in the Mexican campaign, his subsequent quiet life in the perform- ance of his duties at West Point, and his pioneer labors in the explorations of the Red river ; and he had every cause to feel satisfied with his own actions throughout that period of time. Whilst in Texas, McClellan accompanied General Smith, on whose staff he was chief engineer, in a tour of military inspection through the State. They started from Galveston. The island upon which that city is situated was formerly the resort of pirates, and upon it the celebrated Lafitte erected CAMPING-GROUND AT CORPUS CHRISTI. 129 a fort, the ruins of which were to be seen upon its shore. Indianola, one of the places visited, was the head-quarters of the department. It is a quaint little town on Matagorda Bay, and the prominent gables of the houses at its entrance impress the traveller with the idea that he is approaching some place in continental Europe. The pleasant promenade afforded by the beach beyond the town is also strongly suggestive of a stroll by the side of one of the small marine resorts found in south- ern England or western France. At Corpus Christi McClellan wandered over the camping-ground where General Taylor's army was for some time stationed, previous to its march into Mexico. It was situated on the beach near the town, and extended a couple of miles above it. McClellan wrote at the time : " The positions of the tents are still marked by the banks of sand thrown up to protect them against the Northers. It is a classical spot with the army, there are so many old associations, traditions, and souvenirs of many who are now no more." "The country around Corpus," he also remarked, " is very beautiful. Below, towards the bay, it is a rather flat country, alternately prairie and chaparral, the prairies interspersed with ' motts' of, live-oak and mesquite, covered withal by a luxuriant growth of grass. The chaparral is the prettiest growth of that nature I remember to have seen. It is, of course, 6* 130 COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS. tropical that is, composed of the cactus and the stiff thorn-covered bushes peculiar to Southern lati- tudes ; but the ground even now is covered with a great variety of beautiful flowers, and the whole makes up a very pretty country." The journey with General Smith into the interior of the State took Captain McClellan to San An- tonio. This city is of some antiquity, and was re- markable, at the time of the visit, as being the home of people of three distinct nationalities, who inhab- ited it in almost equal portions ; the entire population being about six thousand, but since considerably increased. How far the war may have changed its character it is impossible to state. San Antonio was founded in 1730, by twelve Spanish families from the Canary Islands, whose names< were still perpetuated in the place. The ori- ginal mission and fortress of San Antonio de Valero, however, dates fifteen years before, when Spain established a foothold in Texas. A battered old cathedral stands in the town, and several other Catholic institutions, some of them in different stages of decay, are found in the neighborhood. The Alamo, one of the earliest of these establishments, is within the town, but its present extent is probably a mere fraction of its former grandeur. In*1836, during the Texan revolution, it was heroically defended for a fortnight by Colonel Travis, with a mere handful of men. At the time of McClellan's visit, it was SAN ANTOXIO. 131 used as an arsenal by the United States quarter- master. The buildings of the town were as varied as the people who inhabited it. Neat and cheerful one- storied houses, many furnished with the luxuries of bow windows and balconies, constituted the homes of the Germans, considerable numbers of whom, some years ago, flocked to this State, to find a home free from the oppression of European rulers. More pre- tentious and matter-of-fact buildings were inhabited by the Americans; whilst squalid huts, often door- less, too plainly proved that indolent Mexicans were their occupants. The San Antonio spring, not far from tjie town, Mr. Olmsted, in his work on Texas, says, " may be classed as of the first water among the gems of the natural world. The whole river gushes up in one sparkling burst from the earth. It has all the beau- tiful accompaniments of a smaller spring, moss, pebbles, seclusion, sparkling sunbeams, and dense, overhanging, luxuriant foliage. The effect is over- powering. It is beyond your possible conceptions of a spring. You cannot believe your eyes, and almost shrink from sudden metamorphosis by invaded nymphdom." The San Pedro spring is also situated in the vicinity, and comprises, in addition to its natural attractions, some of those that are generally found in the pleasure-gardens of German towns. San Antonio river is a favorite bathing: resort for 132 COAST SURVEY OF TEXAS. the people. Many houses are so placed that the gardens in their rear extend to the river-bank, and numerous bathing-houses dot the margin of the stream. Bathing here is a real luxury, the water being of a light blue tinge, and its temperature most agreeable. Irrigation is carried on to some extent in the neighborhood, and considerably assists in adding to the productiveness of the soil. The Mexican youth, released from the Indians on the Red river, was protected and cared for by Cap- tain McClellan, and, in accordance with his promise, brought to San Antonio. Whilst here the boy most ungratefully deserted his benefactor, during the time the latter was unfortunately confined to his bed from sickness. As might naturally be anticipated from such conduct, the young scapegrace, it is believed, afterwards turned out a worthless fellow. The report of the result of Captain McClellan's surveys of the coast of Texas was prepared by him under date of April 18th, 1853, at Indianola, from which place he was summoned to Washington to take part in another expedition, and to fulfil more important duties than any with which he had been previously charged. THE GOLDEN STATE. 133 CHAPTER VIII. PIONEEK WOKK IN THE NORTHWEST. The Golden State Difficulties in reaching it Pacific railroad ex- plorations McClellan in charge of the northwestern survey His orders Arrives on the Pacific coast His command The expedition in motion The Cascade range The summit reached Halt at Chequoss Magnificent Alpine scene Curious lake Subterranean passage The mouse-wife The Elip Tilicum The man with two wives Giants and dwarfs Indians met by the way The Tahk prairie and the story of its creation Atahnam Mission Depot-camp at Wenass Detached expe- ditions Removal of the camp to Ketetas Gold discovered Yakima village Indian fortifications. vast region west of the Rocky mountains was, as we have already shown, ceded to the United States at the termination of the war with Mexico. The treaty which extended our territorial boundaries to the Pacific coast was concluded early in February, 1848, and the ink with which it was signed had scarcely dried before California was found to have the most precious of all the precious metals mingling with her soil and imbedded in her mountains. This discovery at once drew to her hitherto sparsely peopled shores thousands of eager search- ers after wealth, who left the loom and the plough, the workshop and the warehouse, the counter and 134 PIONEER WOKK IN THE NORTHWEST. the desk, to delve for gold in her auriferous earth, arid to crush it out of her auriferous rocks. They flocked from every State and nation of the New World, and from every kingdom and empire of the Old ; and so great were their numbers, that before two years had passed, the district to which they had sped knocked at the doors of Congress and demanded admission into the sisterhood of States a demand which the representatives of the people found it incumbent upon them to grant. The central portion of the American continent was then all but an unknown land to civilized man. It was left to the Indian and the buffalo, who, undis- turbed, roamed over it at pleasure. The Rocky moun- tains, lifting their lofty peaks to receive the embraces of the clouds, appeared to form an impassable barrier between the east and the west, and compelled the traveller who wished to reach the new El Dorado either to take the route by sea and land, which carried him over the Isthmus of Panama, or to traverse the ocean for seventeen thousand miles, and submit to the buffeting of the turbulent waters beyond the stormy Horn. But, as the entire territory between the older States east of the Mississippi and their newborn sister in the farthest West belonged to the nation, it was determined to call science to the aid of man, and thereby endeavor to discover a pathway over which the snorting steam horse could travel, and DUTIES. 135 more closely blend the people on the Atlantic shore with those on the Pacific coast. Consequently, an act of Congress was passed, March 31, 1853, by which a sum of money was appropriated for several surveys of the central and western portions of the continent, for the purpose of ascertaining " the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean." The exe- cution of these operations was given into the charge of the War Department. The most northern of the surveys lay between the forty-seventh and forty-ninth parallels of north lati- tude. The exploration of this district was placed under the care of Hon. Isaac I. Stevens, Governor of Washington Territory, who undertook in person the superintendence of the examination into the eastern portion of the route; The direction of the survey of the western or Pacific portion, including the Cascade range of mountains, was assigned to Captain McClellan. The previous explorations of this officer had been undertaken in the company, or under the command, of military men who were his superiors in rank ; he was now, however, for the first time placed at the head of an expedition, and the difficult and responsible position he was called upon to occupy proves how satisfactorily he must have performed the duties previously intrusted to him. In the instructions given to Governor Stevens by the War Department, on April 8th, that gentleman 136 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. was informed that Captain McClellan was already under orders to return from Texas, and report to him for duty on the survey. The Brigadier- General in command of the Pacific division was, at the same time, authorized to assign to Captain McClellan the officers and men requisite for his explorations, and to afford him and his party every facility, " in the discharge of their difficult and im- portant duties." Before Captain McClellan returned from Texas, as the season was progressing rapidly, Lieutenant Duncan, who was appointed one of his party, left New York on the 5th of May, accompanied by Doctor J. G. Cooper, another member of the ex- pedition. Lieutenant Duncan was directed to repair to the Columbia river, and collect transportation and supplies in anticipation of MeClellan's arrival. The latter reached Washington on the 8th of the same month, and on the following day received his in- structions from Governor Stevens. These directed him to proceed to Astoria, not far from the mouth of the Columbia river, and, after organizing his command at an available point, to proceed in the direction of the Cascade mountains, which he was to explore from the Columbia river to the forty- ninth parallel of north latitude, for the purpose of discovering the most practicable pass in the range for a railroad. From this point he was to continue eastward to the Rocky mountains, unless, previous INSTRUCTIONS. 137 to reaching them, he should meet Governor Stevens' s exploring party approaching from the east, over which, in the event of the Governor's absence, he was also to assume command. McClellan was at the same time charged by the Secretary of War with the duty of deciding upon a line for, and the formation of, a military road from Wallah- Wallah to Fort Steilacoom, on Puget Sound, which should pierce the Cascade mountains in its course. The purpose of this road was to provide an easy passage for emigrants traversing that coun- try. He was also authorized to enter into all neces- sary contracts for the construction of the road, and funds were placed at his disposal for carrying out the undertaking. In addition to carefully examining the mountain passes, the surface, and the meteorology of the regions through which he travelled, Captain Mc- Clellan was required to collect every species of information which bore not only -. upon the question of railroad capability, but the character qf the river Columbia, as an avenue of trade and transportation. He was further instructed to give great attention to the Indian tribes, as it was important to secure their friendship; and, it will be shown hereafter, he was thus led to have much intercourse with them. Captain McClellan left New York for the Pacific coast by the steamer of the 20th of May. Whilst 138 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTH WE : T. in San Francisco he made arrangements for sup- plies and the personnel of his command, after which he proceeded to Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia river, where he arrived on the 27th of June. He had here much difficulty in procuring the proper pack animals and the necessary outfit, which so delayed him that it was not until the 24th of the following month that the entire party was in motion. The expedition consisted of Lieutenants Duncan, Hodges, and Mowry, Messrs. Gibbs, Minter, and Lewes, and Doctor J. G. Cooper, to each of whom special duties were assigned. There were in addition five surveying assistants, four non-commis- sioned officers and twenty-four privates of the Fourth Infantry, three hunters, and twenty-two packers, making a total of sixty-five, exclusive of Captain McClellan. Mr. Lewes acted as interpreter. Guides were obtained among the Indians along the route. The number of animals consisted of one hundred and seventy-three, about one-fourth of which were mules. Of these animals seventy- three were used for riding, and the rest for the purpose of carrying the tents, instruments, and stores. Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia river, and one hundred and fifteen miles from its mouth, was a trading-post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the parent establishment from which other stations THE EXPEDITION IN MOTION. 139 were supplied with goods. The post was enclosed by a stockade, and defended by bastions sur- mounted with cannon. Within were the residences of the governor and employes, and large ware- houses. A little distance off stood a small village of fifty or sixty cabins, occupied by servants and Indians. The United States barracks were situated in the neighborhood. The water in the Columbia river being unusually high, it was impracticable for the train to traverse the usual trail to the east which led along its banks; it was, therefore, necessary to take a more northern route, proceed along a trail but little used and much obstructed by brush and fallen timber, and strike the valley of the river beyond the Cascade range. The explorers proceeded from Fort Vancouver towards the Cathlapootle river, the banks of which they reached on August 1st, and followed up its valley for four days. The route then ascended the Cascade range, crossing it a few miles south of Mount St. Helens, the summit being reached on the fifth. The ascent was very difficult, the steep mountain slopes being covered with forests and dense thick- ets, that considerably impeded the passage of the train. A halt from the 8th to the 10th was made at Chequoss, for the purpose of refreshing the animals and making a survey of the district. 140 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. This place was 4,053 feet above the level of the sea. Here a circular basin contained a small pond that presented the appearance of an ancient crater. Notwithstanding its elevation the spot was found to be tolerably fertile. The basin as well as the hills around it were covered with grass ; and strawberries, which had disappeared at Fort Vancouver by the middle of June, were here found in the early part of August growing in great luxuriance and profusion. On the morning of August 9th, a rain storm hav- ing extinguished the fire that had been consuming the forests in the vicinity, and cleared away the smoke that had obscured the view for several days, there was revealed a scene probably unsurpassed by any in America. Five snowy peaks were visible rising many thousand feet above the encampment, showing McClellan and his companions that they were still far below the limits of perpetual snow. These peaks appeared to have their sides clothed with dwarf vegetation for a thousand feet higher than the camping ground. The entire view presented to the vision an Alpine scene of extreme magnificence. The five peaks Mounts Hood, Jefferson, St. Helens, Adams, and Rainier, are of a volcanic nature, and during the journey, smoke was distinctly seen to issue from St. Helens. Though it was the middle of summer, and the days' were very warm, ice formed at night one-third A CURIOUS LAKE. 14 J of an inch in thickness, and the travellers during their stay at Chequoss experienced a violent and cold hail storm, which for a short time buried the flow- ers, and in a brief hour changed summer into winter. On the llth, the eastern slope of the range was descended near the base of Mount Adams, and the downward journey was found to be much more gradual than the ascent of the western side. Level terraces were traversed, covered with grass and shaded' with fine trees, through whose light foliage the sun's rays penetrated with agreeable mildness the district presenting the appearance of a vast ornamental park. Two fields of lava had been passed on the route over the mountains, and four miles west of Che- quoss a third was reached, the lava in every case being broken up into mounds. A peculiar natural feature was here discovered. A small lake of irregu- lar form, occupying, when full, about one hundred acres, extended upon the verge of the field, sur- rounded by gigantic cotton-wood trees, although at an elevation of about 3,300 feet above the level of the sea. Though ^his lake received the water of three brooks, one of them fifteen feet wide, no visible out- let could be found, nor any motion indicating an outflow. The steps of the travellers next led towards the northeast, and in the direction of the passes in the eastern branch of the Cascade range. During some 142 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. of the nights several large and beautiful meteors illumined the sky, and shooting stars and faint glim- merings of the Aurora Borealis were observed. The train in its progress frequently grossed the dry bed of a river, the last five or six miles of which, before it reached the Hool-bool-se, was found to be arched over, forming a subterranean passage of about thirty feet in depth. The arch having broken in several places, natural shafts had been formed, through which the pioneers were enabled to 'see the chasm below. The Indians related to Captain McClellan and his party a curious tradition concerning this subter- ranean channel. Once upon a time, a great chief of the "Elip Tilicum" had a wife, whom, at his desire, one of the learned medicine men of the period changed into a mouse, as a just punishment for some misdemeanor or other that the women of those days were always committing. But the woman did not profit by this punishment, and her spirit, under her new form, was still intent upon working mischief. In a very rebellious mood she went to work to un- dermine her husband's dominions, and this cave, it is said, was the result of her spite. However, with all due deference to the Elip Tilicum, it is more rea- sonable to conclude that the cavern originated in a volcanic eruption, when the lava overran an exist- ing stream and suddenly cooled, after which the water was forced into another channel. THE MAN WITH TWO WIVES. * 143 The Elip Tilicum is a name given by the Indians to a race long since passed away. It is formed of two jargon words, signifying "first people," or " people before." The Indians have likewise another version of this story, which we will also append, as it differs con- siderably from that just given. A very long time ago, before there were any Indians, there lived in this country a man and wife of gigantic stature. The man became tired of his partner, and took to himself a mouse, which there- upon became a woman. When the first wife knew of this, she was very much enraged, and threatened to kill the husband and bis new wife. This coming to the man's knowledge, he hid himself and his mouse-wife in a place higher up the mountain, near the small lake that has no visible outlet. The first woman, finding they had escaped her, and suspecting they were hidden under ground, commenced digging, and made the subterraneous passage. In course of time she completed the cavern to the place where the couple had secreted themselves. Looking up through a hole she had made at the top to let in light, she observed the two looking down and laughing at her. The first wife, irritated at what she witnessed, attempted to climb through the aperture, but slid back several times. She, however, finally strained every nerve, and succeeded in gaining the top. At this the man became much alarmed, begged her not 144 Pfc)NEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. to kill him, and promised that if she would forgive him he would return to his home, and live with her as of old. The woman eventually consented to kill only the mouse-wife, and it is stated that her blood caused the water of the lake to become red. After a time the man asked his wife why she had killed the other woman. She replied, it was because the mouse-wife had brought her to shame, and that she was determined to kill him likewise, which threat she carried into effect, and has since lived alone in the mountains. There is still another story about the origin of this cave, which states that it was made by a former people called the Siam, a name correspond- ing to an Indian word signifying " grizzly bear." The mouse seems to have been a favorite of the Indians, in whose language it is called " hool-bool," and has not only supplied the name of Hool-bool-se given to this place by the Klikatats, but of Hool- bool-pam, or mouse-land, which the Yakimas give to their country. In contrast to the gigantic race just mentioned, the Indians related a story of another race of diminutive size, the people of. which were only a span high. These dwarfs, they said, lived near the foot of Mount St. Helens, and that foot-prints had been seen where they held their nocturnal dances. An eruption of the mountain, however, which took place in 1842, so alarmed the Indians that they THE TAHK PRAIRIE AND ITS CREATION. 145 had not since dared to ascend it, and consequently had not seen the pigmy foot-prints for a long time past. Tribes of Indians now frequently crossed Mc- Clellan's path, and their chiefs were very curious to ascertain the reasons which induced the explo- rers to travel through their lands. As a chapter will be devoted to an account of the Captain's experiences amongst these descendants of the abo- rigines, we shall but briefly allude to them as the train passes over its trail. Shortly after leaving the Hool-bool-se the expedi- tion crossed a portion of the Tahk prairie, a favorite valley of the Klikatats, who related to the trav- ellers a curious story in connection with it. This valley was formerly the bed of a lake, the remains of which now appear in a marshy pond of some extent. When the prairie was made, the wolf prom- ised to the Indians that it should be rich in their favorite roots, the kamas and, the wapp-a-too, and that salmon should come there in abundance. But when the Indians peopled this prairie they were for- getful of their obligations to the wolf, and ungrate- ful to him also, and spent their time in horse-racing and gambling instead of fishing and attending to the business of life. Now, the wolf was so vexed at this treatment, and at the wickedness of the In- dians, that he took away the salmon and placed two stones upon the prairie, beyond which the 7 146 PIONEER WORK IX THE NORTHWEST. fish should not pass. Alas ! the Klikatats had not profited by the lesson taught their forefathers, for they continued to run horses and to gamble. Before arriving at the eastern branch of the Cas- cade mountains, Captain McClellan reached the Atahnam Mission, and found there the Reverend Fathers Pandozy and d'Harbomey with a lay brother. This mission, he learned, was only inhabited' during the summer, for in winter the Fathers established themselves on the Yakima, not far from the Columbia river, where the snow was less deep and the cold less intense than it was here. At these two places, living upon the simplest fare, enjoying few or none of the comforts of life, and with no society save that of the savage, these men were found content to pass their time in endeavoring to diffuse their religion, and improve the morals of their uncivilized neighbors. Cap- tain McClellan found the Fathers ready to afford him all the information in their power, and to extend their personal kindness to the gentlemen of his party. They also procured good guides for the expedition and acted as interpreters with the Indians, Father Pandozy, in particular, being famil- iar with the Yakima tongue. The mission consisted of a small log building divided into a chapel and residence; adjoining to it w^re a corral for horses and an enclosed garden. The Fathers stated they found the Yakimas not THE ATAHNAM MISSION. 147 very teachable, and that they had accomplished very little except in the capacity of peace-makers. Kam-ai-ya-kan, whom Captain McClellan met at the mission, was the only one of three brothers who had adopted even the forms of religion, and he refused to be baptized, because he would be compelled to put away his surplus wives, of whom he had several. His two brothers, Skloo and Sha-wa-wai, were unchanged heathens. After remaining at the Atahnam mission a couple of days for the purpose of obtaining infor- mation about the country and the Indians, the expedition continued its route, on August 20th, and the same day reached Wenass, whose valley McClellan considered would be well suited for a depot, whence minor expeditions could proceed -to survey the passes of the mountain range. Lieutenant Hodges, with part of the command, proceeded north by the Nahchess pass to Steila- coom on Puget Sound, for the purpose of taking thither several of the animals that were almost useless, and some of the escort found incom- petent for the duties that w d evolved upon them, as well as bringing back additional rations and fresh pack-horses. Mr. Lewes, who desired to be relieved on pressing private business, accompanied him. Lieu- tenant Hodges was instructed to explore the here- tofore unknown country through which he would pass. Other- parties were sent with Lieutenant 148 PIONEER WORK IX THE NORTHWEST. Duncan to explore the upper part of the Yakima, and with Mr. Gibbs to examine that river to its mouth, while Captain McClellan went with Mr/ Minter and six men to survey the Nahchess Pass. ^However, before starting, McClellan received a visit, on August 27th, from the priests, accom- panied by Kam-ai-ya-kan, the particulars of which will be found in a future chapter. The visitors remained all night at the camp, and after a " talk" with, the chief on the following morning, the Captain started to overtake his party, which had moved off some two hours before. In his wander- ings among the mountains he discovered that the Indian trails seldom followed the valleys, but generally kept to the higher ground, where the woods were less dense. The Indian evidently pre- ferred riding over a mountain to the labor of cutting a trail over more level ground in other words, had more consideration for himself than for "his horse. Having ascertained the impractica- bility of the Nahchess pass for a railway route, Captain McClellan returned to the depot camp at Wen-ass, after an absence of two days. Upon the receipt of information from Lieutenant Hodges that it was impossible to obtain fresh mules at Steilacoom, and that consequently he would be unable to convey all the supplies he had been instructed to bring, McClellan determined to reduce his party to the smallest practicable GOLD DISCOVERED. 149 number ; therefore, on September 2d he dispatched Lieutenant Mo wry to the Dalles with seventeen men, of whom but two were to return, taking with them all collections made up to the time, and every thing that could be dispensed with. On September 3d, the depot-camp was moved to Ketetas, fourteen miles north of Wenass, on the main Yakima ; and on the following day Cap- tain McClellan left to examine the pass at the head of that stream. The exploration of this pass took several days and led to the conclusion that it was also unavailable for the passage of the rail- road. He rejoined the main party at Ketetas, on the 12th, and found some of his command in a high state of excitement in consequence of the discovery of small quantities of gold on the margin of the river. They were at the time most industriously searching for more, but the fever soon abated, as the returns were not very remunerative. During the Captain's absence from Ketetas, a large Yakima village had sprung up near the camp the people belonging to the band of Ow-hai, one of the very best Indians met with during the journey. The whole course of the Yakima was lined with the vestiges of deserted villages. During an examination of the lower Yakima, an old Indian guide pointed out a work that strongly resembled the earthworks of the Ohio and Mississippi val- 150 PIONEER WOEK IX THE NOKTHWEST. leys. This consisted of two circles of earth about eighty yards in diameter and three feet high, with a ditch between. Within were about twenty cel- lars some thirty feet across and three feet deep. The entire work had the appearance of a de- serted Indian village, but the guide, a great authority, declared it to have been constructed long ago, by men of whom his people knew nothing, and that there was no other like it to be found. It was well posted for defence in Indian warfare. N"ot far off were other cellars uninclosed. The Yakimas appear to have made use of fortifications in their contests with other tribes, and two import- ant works are still standing in their country, which were erected in 1847, by Skloo, as a defence against the Cayuses. Whilst waiting for the return of Lieutenant Hodges, several small parties continued searching- the neighboring streams for gold ; however, no rich deposits of the precious metal were discovered. All the detached expeditions returned to the camp previous to the 16th, and on that day Lieutenant Hodges arrived from Steilacoom. As he had been able to return with only a few animals and a small supply of provisions, Captain McClellan considered .it advisable to farther reduce his command. He, consequently, dispatched three of his men to Dalles in charge of several miserable horses, and availed himself of the opportunity to forward a dispatch CHANGEABLE TEMPEEATTJEE. 151 ~ to the Secretary of War, in which he gave the par- ticulars of his progress up to that time. Excessive hot weather, except on the mountain summits, had prevailed from Fort Vancouver to Ketetas. The heats of the day had added much to the hardships both of the men and the animals, whilst at night the change had been so great that the cold felt quitys unpleasant. CHAPTER IX. PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST CONTINUED. The journey resumed Magnificent panoramic scene Two wicked women and what became of them Indian sculpture Valley of the Columbia Forts Okinakane and Colville Arrival of Governor Stevens Jesuit mission Strange Indian concep- tions Snow storm Chemakane mission The great plain Never-freezing lake Whitman's mission "Wallah-Wallah Close of the expedition McClellan sent on a new exploration Insurmountable difficulties Great depth of snow Intense cold Harbor surveys Official appreciation of McClellan's , abilities. r I ^HE journey was resumed on September 19th, -*- on which day McClellan and his companions left Ketetas, with the command reduced to thirty-six persons, including the Captain, and forty saddle and fifty-two pack animals. The route now taken was directed toward the north. Upon the second day of travel, the train crossed the mountain range lying between the Yakima and the Columbia. On reaching the crest the explorers beheld in astonishment the magnificent scene which lay at their feet. Captain McClellan writes : " We had expected to find the country north of this range rather level, or, at most, rolling and covered with open pine woods. Our surprise may be imagined when the view spread before us MAGNIFICENT PANORAMIC SCENE. 153 from a commanding point, a little below the summit, is described. Five thousand two hundred feet below us lay the Columbia, apparently almost at our feet; so small and insignificant did it appear, that we could not believe it to be the ' great river.' In front of us the Cascade range extended directly to the river, crossing it, in fact ; so that, to the north and west, there was nothing to be seen but mountain piled on mountain rugged and impass- able. About west-northwest was a handsome snow- peak, smaller than Mount Baker;* as it is not to be found on any previous map that I know of, and had no name, I called it Mount Stuart. Far in the distance to the northward was seen a range, run- ning nearly east and west, alongside of which the Columbia flows before reaching Okinakane. That portion of the Cascade range which crosses the Columbia sinks into an elevated plateau, which extends as far as the limit of vision to the eastward this is the Spokane plain. On it we could see no indication of water ; not a single tree, except on the mountain spur ; not one spot of verdure. It was of a dead, yellowish hue, with large clouds of black blending into the general tinge. It appeared to be a sage desert, with a scanty growth of dry bunch grass, and frequent outcroppings of basalt." On striking the Columbia, after passing the moun- * A lofty mountain situated in the northern part of Washing- ton Territory. 7* 154 PIONEER WOEK IN THE NORTHWEST. tains and descending by a very steep trail, Ow-hai, who accompanied Captain McClellan, pointed out one of the lions of the country, in the shape of two columns of sandstone, standing together but apart from the bluff, which was of similar material. These he stated were Ahn-cotte, about which the story runs that "once upon a time" two women of the race " Elip Tilicum," who lived here, were very wicked, and had a very naughty habit of killing any person that passed by. The Indians, in consequence, begged the Great Spirit to destroy them, and He, granting their prayer, first sent an enormous bird to pick out their brains, and then turned their bodies into stone. In proof of all this, the Indian narrator pointed out a hole in the top of one of the columns from which a boulder had fallen, as the aperture made by the bird when he extracted his meal. However, it is more reasonable to believe that the soft sandstone had been worked into the curious shape discerned, by the joint actiop of the water and the atmosphere. A short distance beyond, Ow-hai turned a little off the trail to point out to the party another curi- osity a perpendicular rock, on the face of which were carved sundry figures, most of them intended for men. These figures were slightly sunk in the sandstone, some of them, colored black and others red, whilst traces of paint remained more or less distinct on all. These were also stated to be the VALLEY OF THE COLUMBIA. _ 155 work of the ancient race, but from the soft nature of the rock, and the freshness of some of the paint, they were probably not of extreme antiquity. In connection with these wonderful " antiquities," no information could be obtained from the Indians whether they possessed any tradition of their own migration from another country. Five days were spent in traversing the valley of the Columbia from the point near the mouth of the Pisquouse, where it was first reached, to the mouth of the Methow, where the river bends and changes its bed from a northerly to a westerly direction. Then continuing along the valley for a few miles further, the explorers arrived at Fort Okinakane, near the point where the river of that name flows into the Columbia. The valley of the latter was found to be only about a mile in breadth, and to contain not a tree, and seldom a bush. It was bordered by steep walls of trap, lava, and sandstone, often arranged in a succession of high plateaux or steps. The deep blue water of the river, here more than three hundred yards wide, flowed with a rapid, powerful current, and appeared to be the only life- like object in the desert. Fort Okinakane was a trading place of the Hud- son's Bay Company, having near to it the site of one of Mr. Astor's old posts. It consisted of but three block buildings, surrounded by a stockade, in the form of a square. The entire "garrison'' con- 156 PIONEEB WOEfe IN THE NORTHWEST. sisted of Mr. Lafleur, the superintendent, and two Indians, from the former of whom Captain McClellan received many civilities. Leaving some of the most fatigued animals with Mr. Lafleur, six days were occupied in exploring the Methow ; and after returning to the fort, the route was continued to the north, along the western bank of the Okinakane. This river was ascended as far as the great lake, which was reached on October 10th. The trail was then transferred to the eastern side, and descended the stream about half way, when it turned to the east, along the course of a small stream w T hich flows into the Columbia opposite Fort Colville. The latter river was here found .to have resumed a northern direction. Mr. Macdonald, the gentleman in charge of the post, rendered great assistance to Captain McClellan, in providing boats for the conveyance of the stores and baggage across the stream, on the eastern bank of which the entire command encamped on October 18th. This fort was another of the Hudson's Bay posts, and the next in importance in the territory to Van- couver. It was once a place of considerable value to the Company, but the abandonment of a route which passed it reduced its trade. The population consisted of the manager, and about twenty Cana- dians and Indians. Fifteen other Canadians, former servants of the Company, had settled upon claims in the neighborhood. STRANGE INDIAN CONCEPTIONS. 157 Captain McClellan anticipated that he might here obtain some information in regard to Governor Ste- vens's command, which he was now expecting to meet in its journey from the east; but in this he was disappointed. However, after spending some time with Mr. Macdonald at the fort, he repaired to his camp, and had scarcely reached it, about nine o'clock in the evening, when he received a note from that gentleman, giving him the gratifying intelli- gence of Governor Stevens's arrival. He immedi- ately returned to the fort, and at eleven o'clock the party sat down to a supper prepared by Mrs. Macdonald, and regaled themselves with steaks cooked in buffalo fat, which gave them a dainty flavor. During the stay here, a visit was made to Mac- donald's leap, near which was a mission under the care of Father Louis, of the Jesuit order, who on the following day dined with the explorers at Fort Colville. In the evenings spent with Mr. Macdonald, after glorious suppers, the Governor and the Captain were attentive listeners to thrilling stories and excit- ing legends related to them by their host. He told them that intelligence had reached him through the Blackfeet of the approach of Governor Stevens's party, and that those Indians gave most singular accounts of every thing connected with it. For in- stance, they said that the horses of the expedition had claws like the grizzly bear; that they climbed 158 PIONEER AVORK IN THE NORTHWEST. steep rocks, holding on by these claws; that their necks were like the new inoon; and that their neigh was like the sound of distant thunder. The entire party left Fort Colville on October 22d, proceeding to the south. On the following day, they were overtaken by a snow storm, that soon covered the ground with a white mantle five inches thick, which, however, did not last longer than a day. A pleasing country of forests and prairies was traversed on the way to the Spokane river, on which is the Spokane house, an old Hudson's Bay fort, and a landmark of the vicinity. A visit was made to the Chemakane mission, which lay upon the road. This mission, formerly occupied by Messrs. Walker and Eel, was abandoned in 1849, in consequence of the Cayuse difficulty. These gen- tlemen labored ardently for the good of the Indians. Walker, who was a capital farmer, taught them agriculture, and they mentioned his name with great respect. The house, occupied by him was still standing, but that in which Eel resided had been burned down. The Spokane chief, Garry, met the explorers at this mission, and accompanied them on their journey to his village. A rest was made from the 26th to the 30th of October on the Spokane plain, where the company was increased by the arrival of Governor Stevens's main party, under the command of Lieutenant Don- elson, which approached from the east. The Gov- NEVER-FREEZING LAKE. 159 ernor had before passed this point on his road to Fort Colville, where he proceeded in search of Mc- Clellan. From the Spokane, the train, which now com- prised both the eastern and western expeditions, passed in a southwesterly direction over the Great Plain of the Columbia to Fort Wallah-Wallah, on the banks of that river. This journey lasted eight days. The principal characteristic of the region was an entire absence of trees, but it is far from being level, as the name would lead one to suppose. Its low- est elevation is two thousand feet above the ocean. The animals and the living creatures found on this plain are principally the badger, coyote or barking wolf, cock of the plains or sage fowl, the sharp-tailed grouse or prairie chicken, horned lizards, and rattle- snakes. Garry assured the travellers that about thirty miles east of their trail there was to be found a re- markable lake, called En-chush-chesh-she-luxum, or Never-Freezing Water. This lake, he said, is so completely surrounded by high and precipitous rocks, that it is impossible to descend to the water, which never freezes, even in the most severe winter. The Indians believe that it is inhabited by buffalo, deer, elk, and other kinds of game, which they say may be seen in the clear, transparent element. The two divisions of the expedition took different routes across the plain. Captain McClellan, in his 160 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. course, passed an old mission, formerly occupied by Mr. Whitman, whose death was caused by the false reports of a troublesome half-breed, who re- ported having heard Mrs. Whitman say to her hus- band, when speaking of the Indians: "We will get rid of them some day." It was evident from the state of cultivation to which the country had been brought, that the missionary must have done much good to the Indians. On November Yth, Captain McClellan reached Wallah- Wallah, another fort of the Hudson's Bay Company, in the neighborhood of which are many farms occupied by its former servamts. He left it on the following day, Governor Stevens having preceded him, and followed the river trail westward to the Dalles, a station of the United States army, where he arrived on the 15th. The total distance thus far travelled since leaving Vancouver, including the tract of country passed over by the main party, and the detached parties under McClellan's own immediate command, was one thousand and fifty-one miles. Upon arriving at this point the animals were so worn out that they were unable to carry loads down the river trail at the advanced state of the season. They were, therefore, sent forward without, on the 17th, and on the same day the party moved down the river in the small steamer Allen and arrived at Fort Vancouver late in the night of the 18th, the ON A NEW EXPEDITION. 161 latter part of the voyage, from the Cascades, having been made in open boats, and the whole of it amid a drenching rain. The Cascades are fifty miles above Fort Vancouver. The Indians stated that the river was originally perfectly free at this spot, but that its gradual encroachments upon the precipitous banks at length gave rise to a land-slide, which, falling into the river, made a natural dam. The portage round the Cascades was one mile and a half in length, a wooden railroad being in use for the transportation of canoes. At Vancouver Captain McClellan's party was broken up, and the portion required for office work sent to Olympia ; he was, however, necessarily de- tained at the former place, and did not reach the latter until the 16th of December. McClellan was not allowed to rest long at the capital of the Territory, for on the 23d of the same month he was dispatched upon a new mission to survey the line for the railroad from the Sno- qualme pass in the Cascade range to the various harbors on the sound ; as well as to examine the several ports for the purpose of determining upon the most available one for a terminus. On the day named the new expedition, consisting of six persons, left Olympia in a canoe, manned by three Indians, and arrivec} at Steilacoom the same night. At the latter place McClellan found it im- possible to make any arrangements for land trans- 162 PIONEER AVORK IN THE NORTHWEST. portation, the Indians representing to him that the road was impracticable for animals at that season. But he AY as not to be foiled, and determined to proceed in two canoes to the falls of the Snoqualme, and thence as far as might seem advisable on foot. Five days were spent at Steilacoom in a fruit- less endeavor to obtain horses and guides, and, in consequence of the height of the water, six more were consumed in passing over the sound and up the river to the falls, a distance of some fifty-two miles. The latter point was reached on January 7th, 1854, when McClellan and a portion of his party walked to a small prairie a few miles distant, where they reached the bivouac of the Indian horse- guard. Before arriving at the falls the Captain was informed by some Yakimas that he would meet with very little snow on the prairie, which proved to be the case ; but that beyond, the depth gradually increased ; that it was up to the armpits at some little distance on the road to the mountains; and that at the summit of the pass it was not less than twenty-five feet deep. Beyond this, he was inform- ed, the snow was so light and dry. that the use of snow-shoes was impracticable, but at the expira- tion of " two moons and a half" it would pack down and be sufficiently hard to allow either horses or snow-shoes to pass over it. It thus appeared utterly impossible for the expe- IN THE SNOW. 163 dition to reach its destination. However, leaving his companions at the Indian bivouac to make the best preparations they could for passing the night for the travellers had neither tent, blanket, nor overcoat McClellan went forward on the trail with two Indians to reconnoitre the road. As soon as he left the prairie he found the ground entirely covered with snow, which soon became a foot deep in the shallowest spots, and increased in depth as he proceeded. All signs of a trail were obliterated, and, as he had been informed, the snow was totally unfit for passing over with snow-shoes. McClellan, consequently, soon returned to the bivouac, where he awaited the arrival of an Indian, who was out hunting, for the purpose of hearing his report of the state of the road. The latter proved to be a Yakima whom he had met beyond the mountains in the summer. From him he ascer- tained that the snow soon increased to " waist- deep," and that no Indian ever attempted to cross the mountains at that time of the year. The next morning, after making further inquiries, the Captain reluctantly came to the conclusion that, if it were not then positively impracticable to reach the pass, it was certainly inexpedient to make the attempt. To add to other discomfitures, McClellan dis- covered that the barometer furnished to him was entirely worthless. 164 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. On January 10th, Captain McClellan and his party retraced their route homewards, with the determina- tion of examining the harbors of the sound on their way ; and on the evening of the following day en- camped near the mouth of the Snoqualme river. On the night of the 12th, the explorers encamped at the head of Macdonough's Island, with the intention of going to Bellingham Bay on the morrow; but a heavy fall of snow during the night, and a strong gale next day, rendered it impossible for the canoe to proceed in safety. On the 14th, the wind still continuing dead ahead and very violent, it was deemed advisable to turn back. At Seattle the ice gave much trouble and compelled the pioneers to abandon further harbor researches ; they, therefore, continued on their course to Steilacoom, which was reached on the 18th, and thence to Olympia, where they arrived on the 21st, after having, during their trip, suffered considerably from intense cold, and endured much discomfiture from snow, cold rain, and sleet. The result of the examination of harbors led Mc- Clellan to decide upon Seattle, as by far the best adapted of any in that district for the terminus of the railroad, in consequence of its easy approach, depth of water, good holding-ground, and sheltered position. His survey of the Cascade range induced him to consider the Columbia River Pass as that most practicable for the railroad, as a line through the HANDSOME TRIBUTE. 165 Yakima Pass, though more direct, would entail con- siderable tunnelling and high gradients, and present obstacles not found in the former. Captain McClellan spent the remainder of the winter at Olympia in the preparation of his reports, which were afterwards published in the first volume of the magnificent work on the several Pacific Rail- road Explorations, in twelve quarto volumes, issued by order of Congress. Upon the junction, on the banks of the Spokane river, of the eastern and western divisions of the ex- ploration expedition under his charge, Governor Ste- vens issued an order congratulating his associates on the successful accomplishment of the great object of their joint labors, a copy of which appears in the same volume. In this paper, he pays the following hand- some tribute to those engaged in the latter division : " To Captain McClellan, his officers and men, too much credit cannot be ascribed for their indefati- gable exertions, and the great ability of all kinds brought to their division of the work. They can point with just pride to the determination of two practicable passes in that most formidable barrier from the Mississippi to the Pacific, of the Cascade range, and to a most admirable development of the unknown geography of the region eastward to the Columbia, as showing the unsurpassed skill and de- votion which has characterized the chief of the division and all of his associates." 166 PIONEER WORK IN THE NORTHWEST. The Secretary of War, in his report to Congress, also compliments Captain McClellan, for the manner in which he fulfilled his duties in this exploration, in the following honorable terms : "The examination of the approaches and passes of the Cascade mountains, made by Captain Mc- Clellan, of the corps of engineers, presents a recon- noissance of great value, and, though performed under adverse circumstances, exhibits all the infor- mation necessary to determine the practicability of this portion of the route, and reflects the highest credit on the capacity and resources of that officer." CHAPTER X. INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. Importance of Indian friendship The Klikatats Indian Yankees A cherished calendar The Yakimas and their chiefs False reports A "talk" with Skloo Council with Kam-ai-ya-kan Ow-hai and his band Elegance of Indian dress The Pis- quouses An aspirant for regal honors Election of a chief Indian horse-race Disposal of the dead Curious genealogical tree Garry, the" Spokane chief An Jndian welcome Indian religious worship Garry's hospitality McClellan punishes his proposed assassin Pu-pu-mux-mux, and how he defied the Cayuses Interesting relic. a preceding chapter we mentioned that it was one of Captain McClellan's duties, during his northwestern survey, to cultivate friendly rela- tions with the Indians over whose lands the expedi- tion would pass. Numerous tribes met him on his journey, and expressed an eager desire to learn all the particulars of the objects and intentions of his visit. These people were naturally suspicious that the white man was intent upon wresting from them their lands, and depriving them of their heritage, a fate to which they too well knew many of their race had been subjected. Consequently, McClellan's niter- course with the Indians had to be conducted with all the care and forbearance of a diplomatic mission. 168 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. A just appreciation of their rights to their lands, and a frankness in explaining to them the objects of the visit, was the surest means of obtaining their aid and winning their friendship. In the various " coun- cils" held, and the various "talks" had with the petty monarchs of the plains, Captain McClellan was very fortunate in being enabled in every case to subdue any antagonistic feeling they may have pos- sessed, and to draw from them not only promises of amity, but performances which proved that they were sincere. If the Indian roams over the wilds in all the freedom of savage life, he is, after all, a man, whose heart, like- that of the more civilized, is softened by kindness, but is steeled by harshness. Captain McClellan well knew, if the dictates of his own heart did not teach him, the proper course to follow, whereby he could make the semi-savage a faithful friend. He met the Indians in a fair and generous spirit, and the results are evidenced in the willingness they displayed to aid him in his arduous duties. The Klikatat was the first tribe fallen in with after the Cascade range had been passed. The lands of this tribe were in the vicinity of the Klikatat river. Its people and the Yakimas, who were shortly afterwards met, were identical in all the essentials of character. They both manifested a remarkable aptitude for trading, and held towards the neighboring tribes a position not unlike that A CHEKISHED CALENDAR. 1C9 once possessed by the "Yankees" in the western States the travelling retailers of notions purchas- ing from the whites, feathers, beads, cloth, and other articles prized by Indians, and exchanging them for horses, which, in turn, they sold to the set- tlements. The salmon furnished to them, as to most tribes of the Pacific, the principal staple of food. This, and deer, the black bear, berries which grew in profusion, and other productions of the animal and vegetable world, gave them ample sustenance. Their habitations consisted of rude huts covered with mats. They cultivated potatoes, melons, squashes, together with a little barley and Indian corn. The patriarchal institutions of slavery and polygamy were retained among them, the number of wives being only limited to the wealth of the husband. One of their marriage laws compelled the father of a wife to refund the purchase money to the bereaved husband, in the event of her dying a short time after marriage. A similar rule existed with regard to the purchase of horses and slaves. The old chief of the Klikatats, Tow-e-toks, showed to Captain McClellan's party a paper he had pre- served with great care, on which some person had prepared a sort of calendar or record of the days of the week. As it was nearly worn out, he expressed much anxiety lest he should be unable to distin- guish the Sundays, and desired that a new calendar might be prepared for him. The missionaries 170 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. appeared to have influenced the mind of this Indian, who stated that he constantly "talked with the Chief above." Captain McClellan made a small present to the old chief, and distributed some tobacco among the men. He did not, however, consider it necessary to enter into a formal talk with the Klikatat tribe, beyond casually explaining to them the objects of his visit, and a few other points. With the Yakimas, however, it was necessary that the Captain should hold a more lengthy con- ference. It was very important that a proper im- pression should be made upon, and a friendly under- standing established with them, as their country was to become a thoroughfare for the whites. The Yakimas occupied the district drained by the river of the same name. They were divided into two principal bands, over one of which there were three chiefs Kam-ai-ya-kan and his brothers Skloo and Sha-wa-wai and over the other Te-eh-yas and Ow-hai. Of all these, Kam-ai-ya-kan possessed the greatest authority, none of the rest undertaking any matter of importance without consulting him. He lived with the missionaries, and was much under their influence. Skloo was accused of being tyrannical and overbearing, and Sha-wa-wai of indolence and want of force. The other two chiefs were intelligent, and bore very good characters. All five appeared friendly towards FALSE REPORT. 171 the whites, whose superiority they had sense enough to understand. On leaving the mountains, the Captain first encountered Skloo, a tall,- fine looking, and very dark skinned man, who came up to his camp, attend- ed by Wee-ni-nah, a sub-chief. McClellan had al- ready met with an amusing instance of Indian craft, in which Skloo had proved to be the principal actor. A .small party of Indians visited the camp at Chequoss, and stated that they had been told the expedition was approaching the Yakima coun- try for the purpose of seizing their horses and cattle, robbing them of their lands, and killing them if they showed any resistance ; and that Skloo and his brother, Kam-ai-ya-kan, were determined to oppose the invasion. This report did not create any uneasiness in Captain McClellan's mind, further than that it might alarm the Indians, and prevent the necessary intercourse with them. It was evi- dently a fabrication of Skloo's for the purpose of learning the object of the expedition. In a short talk which McClellan held with him, he satisfacto- rily explained this, and the Indian, in return, gave what information he possessed about the moun- tain trails. It was afterwards ascertained that this chief had a very few friends, but his manly deportment left a more favorable impression on the minds of the explorers than did the appearance of other Indians who possessed far more enviable 172 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. characters. A small present, as a matter of course, was presented by the Captain to this attractive Indian gentleman on his departure. We have already stated that Kam-ai-ya-kan, the principal chief of the Yakimas, was found at the Atahnam mission, and that, in company with the priests, he afterwards paid a formal visit to Captain McClgllan, at his camp at Wenass. The chief was a large, gloomy looking Indian, with a very long and strongly marked face, slovenly in dress, but said to be generous and honest. The visitors, it will be remembered, spent the night with the Captain. On the following morning the latter had a long " talk" with the chief, the priests acting as interpreters. He explained to the Indian the general nature of the American Government, as far as it was necessary for him to understand. He also told him the rank that Governor Stevens, who was coming with a party across the Rocky mountains, held in the country. He expressed the hope that the good disposition Kain-ai-ya-kan had shown towards the whites would be maintained ; that if any injury was done by them to his people they were not to seek revenge, but to complain to the Governor, who would redress it; and that iany injury was suffered by the whites from the Indians, he would expect the chief to punish the offenders. Captain McClellan also stated that it was the intention of the whites to make a wagon road across the mountains, and 173 that many would undoubtedly pass through their country. Should any of the travellers be in need, he wished the chief to assist them. Their coming, he said, would be an advantage to his people, for they would buy their potatoes and exchange cattle that had become tired by long travel, for others which were fat, paying for the exchange. In con- clusion, he added that the Great White Chief had instructed him, when he met with friendly chiefs among the Indians, to present them with a gift he had sent them. A handsome present of some Indian goods was thereupon given to Kam-ai-ya-kan. The latter then made a suitable reply, in which he referred to a subject previously mentioned by Skloo, to the effect that the negotiations of white men pre- tending to be chiefs proved that they were not very particular in the purchase of their lands; and stated he had heard that white men would give a few presents and then pretend they had bought the property. The Captain informed him who were the only persons empowered to make these purchases or to treat with the Indians. With this the chief expressed himself satisfied ; and McClellan had no reason to doubt his sincerity, for in a number of instances he displayed an honesty not often found among Indians. Our readers will also recollect that when McClellan returned to his camp at Ketetas from the explora- 174 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. tion of the pass at the head of the Yakima, he found an Indian tribe under the chieftainship of Ow-hai had established itself close by. This chief was about fifty years of age, and had a very pleasant face, with a high but retreating forehead, of which he was somewhat vain. His brother, Te-eh-yas, having gone to Puget Sound, was consequently not seen by the Captain. When speaking of him, Ow-hai remarked that lie had a big head and thought much, adding, as he touched his own, " like myself." The chief remained with the explorers whilst they encamped at Ketetas, and afterwards accompanied them as far as the Pisquouse. In a "talk" with him, Captain McClellan communicated information similar to that given to Ivam-ai-ya-kaii. Ow-hai's band traded much more with Puget Sound than the others, and the chief consequently knew more about the trails. His tribe was much better dressed than those previously met with. The young men and women affected more of their native costume than the older people did. The chief's two sons, both tall, hand- some men, had their blankets and dress profusely orna- mented, and the wife of one of them, a very pretty woman, wore a dress stiff with beads and porcupine quills. Ow-hai himself, on the contrary, appeared in a full American suit, and touched his hat by way of salutation a compliment which he clearly ex- pected to be noticed and returned. He, like Kam- AN ASPIRAXT FOR REGAL HONORS. 175 ai-ya-kan, had adopted some of the forms of religion, and professed to pray habitually, but it was much to be feared he was not altogether sincere in his devotions. He was a man of considerable under- standing, and appeared inclined to profit by the example of the whites. North of the Yakima country lay that of the Pisquouse, who were very much intermarried with the former tribe. Several of their bands had been united under one principal chief, Stal-koo-sum, a man of great note among them, who was killed a few years prior to McClellan's visit, in a fight with the Blackfeet, since which occurrence there had been no head of the tribe. The late chief's son, Quil-tan-ei- nok, or Louis, was a candidate for his father's throne, and visited the camp at Ketetas for the purpose of recommending himself to the Captain's patron- age. He came under the auspices of Ow-hai, who was interested in his promotion. It seemed de- sirable, if possible, to unite the scattered elements of the empire under one head, and the better to ascertain the character of the aspirant for regal honors, he was engaged by McClellan as a guide. It may be here remarked, that though the chiefdom of the petty bands or villages appeared to be heredi- tary, it did not always follow that the person who had placed himself at the head of the tribe transmitted his power. Quil-tan-ei-nok had used every effort to succeed in the obiect of his ambition, but had been 176 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. * unsuccessful, and, as the sequel will show, was doomed to further disappointment. On reaching the mouth of the Pisquouse, Captain McClellan advised the Indians, in connection with their neighbors, to choose a head chief, who would represent them all, and talk for them with the chief of the whites. He, at the same time, promised that if they agreed amongst themselves upon a proper person, the Governor would give him a great writing signifying his assent. McClellan also distributed some presents among the Indians, that given to Quil-tan-ei-nok being the largest, so that he might at least have honor amongst his own people. When the election came off, however, he was defeated, and by a candidate whose name had not been previously mentioned. At this place, the pioneers were offered the amuse- ment of a horse-race; and on Captain McClellan promising a yard of red cloth as the prize, a gen- eral enthusiasm seized upon the whole tribe. Mr. Gibbs, one of the exploring party, remarks of this race, that "horses were sought in every direction, that would stand a chance of winning, and in a short time a dozen of the best came up to the starting-point. A goal was fixed on the plain, at some distance, which they were to turn around and return ; and at a signal from the chief, they stripped riot the horses, but the riders doffing their blan- kets, and other inconvenient articles, and appearing AN INDIAN HORSE-RACE. 177 in costumes of primitive simplicity. One rider wore a pair of moccasins, another sported a shirt, while with a third, a streak or t\vo of red paint, judiciously disposed, gave every requisite distinction. There was some very pretty running, and still better jockey- ing ; but as the distance was unmeasured, and no- body took note of the time, an official report cannot be given. The winner, who rode a handsome gray gelding, carried off a prize that a few years before * was worth as much as his horse/' But the new Pisquouse chief was not the only Indian invested with monarchical honors, and first surrounded with the "pomp of power" during Captr.in McClellan's explorations in these regions. Whilst he was in the country of the Okinakanes six of the bands Belonging in part to each tribe agreed upon Ke-kch-tum-nouse, or Pierre, as their chief. This Indian belonged to Klahum, the site of Astor's old fort, at the mouth of the Okinakane. At Fort Okinakane, a mode of disposing of the dead was observed differing from that customary among the tribes through whose countries the party had passed. The latter buried the dead, but here the bodies were wrapped in* blankets, or other clothing, and bound to trunks of trees, at a sufficient distance from the ground tQ preserve them from wild animals. On leaving this fort, the new chief, attended by two of his 'subjects, accompanied the explorers to 8* 178 INTERVIEWS WITH THE 1NDIAXS. Fort Colville, in the capacity of a guide. The caval- cade was enlarged on the road by the addition of the chief of the Saht-lil-kwu band, a religious person who sported the title of King George. This poten- tate, however, was not the only Indian in Washing- ton Territory who assumed this royal name. Mr. Gibbs informs us, that the head chief of all the Clallams or the S'Klallams, as they call themselves whose country lay near the coast, was S'Hai-ak, or King George, a very different personage to his name- sake on the west of the mountains. The father of this chief, Lach-ka-nam, or Lord jSTelson, had abdi- cated in favor of his son, but was then living. Mr. Gibbs gives the following humorous ac- count of the nomenclature of some of the Clal- lams : " Most of the principal men of the tribe have received names, either from the English or the ' Bostons ;' and the genealogical tree of the royal family presents as miscellaneous an assemblage of characters as a masked ball in carnival. Thus, two of King George's brothers are the Duke of York and General Gaines. His cousin is Tom. Benton, and his sons, by Queen Victoria, are General Jackson and Thomas Jefferson. The Queen is daughter to the Duke of Clarence, -and sister to Generals Scott and Taylor, as &lso to Mary Ella Coffin, the wife of John C. Calhoun. The Duke of York's wife is Jenny Lind ; a brother of the Duke of Clar- ence is John Adarns; and Calhoun's sons are' James GAERY, THE SPOKANE CHIEF. IT 9 K..Polk, General Lane, and Patrick Henry. King George's sister is the daughter of the late Flattery Jack. All of them have papers certifying to these and various other items of information, which they exhibit with great satisfaction." These people, however, it would appear, made shocking work in the pronunciation of their names ; and it is melancholy to relate, that the Clallam repre- sentatives of the distinguished personages mentioned, were generally as drunken and worthless a set of rascals as could be collected. Their intercourse with shipping, and the introduction of whiskey, had in no wise assisted in improving a bad character which the tribe always possessed. In the preceding chapter, we stated that whilst Captain McClellan was journeying with Governor Stevens from Fort Colville to the Spokane River, the party was met by Garry, the Spokane Chief. This Indian, who was at that time about forty-two years of age, had his name bestowed upon him by Sir George Simpson, by whom he had been sent for education, when about twelve years old, to the Red River of the North, where he spent five years. He was very intelligent, spoke English and French fluently, bore an excellent character, and was what he claimed to be, and what few were among -the Indian tribes a chief. Garry had more than twcT months before met Lieu- tenant Saxton, who left Fort Vancouver prior to the 180 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. starting of Captain McClellan's expedition, and had passed through the Spokane Village with commissary stores, on his way to meet Governor Stevens. Lieutenant Saxton had reported the Spokanes to be the most noble tribe he had thus far met. They had been told the object of his visit was to make war upon them, but were delighted to find he came amongst them as a friend, and turned out in great numbers to greet him. About thirty mounted war- riors, in full costume, formed upon a high hill and sang a song of welcome, making the hills re-echo with their wild music, and as the setting sun shone upon them presenting a scene strikingly grand and imposing. Governor Stevens also passed through the Spokane Village on his way to meet Captain McClellan, and whilst there sent for Garry, who visited him at his camp, and informed him of the latter' s arrival at Fort Colville. At nightfall the Governor observing a fire a short distance off, strolled to the place and came upon a little encampment of Spokane Indians, whom he found engaged in religious services, which he was glad to have the opportunity of wit- nessing. The company consisted of three or four men, the same number of women, and half a dozen children. The order of worship comprised an ad- dress, the Lord's prayer, psalms, and the benedic-^ tion, and the services were conducted with great solemnity. ELEMENTS OF DISSENSION. 181 The Spokanes had, at the time of Captain McClel- lan's visit, a disputed question of boundary with a neighboring tribe called the Coeur d'Alenes v which appeared to be as complicated as some of those between more civilized nations. No resort to arms had, however, occurred, and the territory in dispute continued under joint occupation. Another element, which, alas, too often causes dissension among the whiter race, created an additional source of coldness between these two tribes. This was a difference of religion the Spokanes being Protestants, or of the "American Religion," as they termed it, and the CcEur d'Alenes, Catholics. Garry narrated the evils arising from this state of feeling with a forbearance and Christian spirit of toleration that would have done honor to any person. The Spokanes had, at the time of the expedition, no missionary among them, but they appeared to be consistent to what they had learned under the tuition of Messrs. Walker and Eel of the Chemakane Mission. Garry accompanied Governor Stevens and Cap- tain McClellan to the Spokane House. A visit was also paid to the chief's family, who were found to reside in a comfortable lodge. He informed his guests that he always had on hand flour, sugar, and coffee with which to make his friends comfortable, and offered the hospitality of his house with much cordiality. Gariy's lodge, in neatness and comfort, was far beyond any that had 182 INTEK VIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. been seen. His family were dressed in the costume of the whites, which, in fact, prevailed over their own. Many of the Sppkanes, besides their inter- course with the Fort, visited the American settle- ments, where they earned money by occasional work, most of which they spent in clothing, blankets, and similar articles. The chief had an extensive field wherein he raised a large quantity of wheat, which he took to Colville to be ground. On one occasion during the survey McClellan was informed by his Indian guide, that a certain chief had declared his intention to kill him. Shortly afterwards meeting his proposed assassin, the Cap- tain determined to prove to him that he was not very easily to be extirpated. Springing upon the chief at his approach, he got his arm round the blood-thirsty red-skin's neck and gave him such a vigorous hug that it made him yell lustily for mercy. "So you intend to kill me, "do you?" exclaimed McClellan. " Now I'll prevent that by killing you." The frightened savage implored his adversary to spare him, and stoutly denied that he had any inten- tion of acting in a hostile manner towards him. And the more the Indian begged for his life the tighter grew the Captain's grasp. At length, after nearly strangling his enemy, McClellan relaxed his hold, having practically taught him that he was too dangerous an antagonist to encounter. On Captain McClellan's journey from the Spokane , CAPTAIN M CLEI.LAN S AFFAIR WITH THE INDIAN. i. 182. PU-PU-MUX-MUX. 183 country to Fort Vancouver, he passed through the district peopled by the Wallah-Wallahs, which lay around the Fort of that name. This tribe ownei large bands of horses, and its members had been notorious as thieves ever since their first intercourse with the whites. Their fisheries at the Dalles and at the falls, ten miles above, were' the finest on the Columbia river. The head chief was Pu-pu-mux- mux, or the Yellow Serpent, an old man whose influence, however, did not extend beyond his immediate band. Governor Stevens speaks of him as being respected far and wide. He found him dignified in manner and well qualified to fulfil the duties of his position. The chief had the air of a substantial farmer. He owned lands near the Fort, possessed two thousand horses, and had accumulated a large amount of money probably five thousand dollars. He was also of a generous disposition, and frequently gave an ox and articles of value to his neighbors. It was reported of him that upon learning some of his people refused to fulfil a contract entered into with a party of emi- grants to ferry them across the river, he compelled them to carry it out faithfully, and mounting his horse, thrashed them until they complied. Pu-pu-mux-mux was invited to join the Cayuses on the occasion of their war, but steadily refused. Upon the murder, by these people, of Mr. Whitman, and the destruction of the mission, he was asked 184 INTERVIEWS WITH THE INDIANS. but declined to share the spoils. He was then taunted with being afraid of the whites, to which he replied : " I am not afraid of the whites, nor am 1 afraid of the Cayuses. I defy your whole band. 1 will plant my three lodges on the border of my own territory, at the mouth of the Touchet, and there I will meet you if you dare to attack me." He accordingly moved his lodges to this point and re- mained there three or four weeks undisturbed. Before Captain McClellan reached Wallah- Wal- lah he had an interesting relic exhibited to him by one of the Indians through whose country he passed. Whilst at the point where the Peluse falls into the Snake river, Wattai-wattai-how-lis, the chief of a band, showed him with great pride, a medal pre- sented to his ancestor, Ke-powh-kan, by Captains Lewis and Clark, who crossed the continent at the beginning of the present century. It was of silver, double and hollow, and had on the obverse a medal- lion bust with the inscription, "Thomas Jefferson, President U. S. A., 1801," and on the reverse the clasped hands, pipe, and battle-axe, crossed, with the legend, " Peace and Friendship." CHAPTER XL IN THE WEST INDIES. Victories of peace Scientific operations of Army officers Secret expedition to the "West Indies Its object Selection of a harbor Description of the place chosen Corroborative opinion Historic associations Visit of Columbus First en- counter with the Indians in America Jack Banister and his bold buccaneers Inquiry into the American railway system McClellan's report thereon. ~\ /T'lLTOiN" wrote in one of his sonnets, " Peace hath her victories no less renowned than war." How applicable is this thought to the opera- tions of the officers of the regular army ! At the present time, when civilians can see no merit in a soldier unless he wins a great battle, or directs a dashing charge, no consideration is given to the achievements of military men in past years in the great and fertile fields of science. Yet if we calmly review the performances of the officers of our army for half a century back, we shall find, in addition to the laurels they gathered on the battle ground of Mexico, they plucked as fadeless leaves in regions where they had to contend with privations as great as any which befall the defenders of a beleaguered city, and to encounter perils as critical 186 IN THE WEST INDIES. and hardships as severe as are ever met with in time of war. Though the wreath which crowned a Colum- bus or a De Soto is not considered in the eyes of the world to.be as sparkling as the diadem that decked the brow of an Alexander or a Cortez, still we doubt not but mankind has derived greater bene- fits from the discoverer, than from the conqueror. How little would be known of the great region west of the Mississippi, if our engineer officers had not mapped its rivers and traced its plains ; and how much less advantageous to us would have been our acquisition of California if these same soldiers had not tracked the mountain passes, and opened paths across hitherto unexplored territory ? Let us, therefore, give to those who, in time of war, are our brave defenders, equal honor for their not less important services in time of peace. In previous chapters, we have accompanied some of our army officers in their journeyings beyond the edge of civilization, and we are consequently able to discern the advantages the nation has derived from their researches into previously unstudied portions of the book of nature. The results of these researches are published to the world in portly volumes, but how few of our people are acquainted with their value. Written by intelligent men, who speak of what they saw in unassuming language, and filled with graphic descriptions of the districts travelled OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION. 187 over, their varied scenery, their remarkable produc- tions, their animated nature, and the semi-civilized tribes who people them, these books possess a charm to the, general reader, which many are unconscious of, and few appreciate. Captain McClellan returned from Washington Territory to the Atlantic States in the spring of 1854, and in June of the same year was intrusted by the Government of the United States with a duty of great importance, demanding much discretion, and a considerable knowledge of naval and military re- quirements. It was a secret expedition to the West Indies, having for its object the selection of a conve- nient harbor and a suitable coaling station for the United States vessels cruising in the neighborhood of those islands, and passing into the Mexican gulf. He proceeded in the United States frigate Colum- bia, first to San Domingo, and then to other islands in the vicinity, returning in September with a vast amount of information of considerable importance at the time to the administration, and with a large number of maps and sketches of the places visited. Captain McClellan selected, as the most desirable for the proposed station and harbor, the bay and peninsula of Samana, a port of the then Dominican Republic, situated on the northeast coast of the island of Hayti. He embodied the results of his inquiries into two reports, one on the harbor and its defences, and the other descriptive of the island ; 188 1ST THE WEST INDIES. but as might be expected from the secret nature of the expedition, these reports have never been given to the world. An endeavor was made by the Government to obtain the cession of the bay and peninsula, and negotiations were opened, but without terminating in the desired acquisition. How far the Government of San Domingo, in their refusal to cede the district to the United States, may have been influenced by European powers, it is impossible to say. The peninsula of Samana is thirty-two miles lon most efficient service, and as- sisted in driving back the enemy. McClellan after- wards rode along the ranks, inspiring confidence amongst the men, and assured them he had now got the rebels in the place desired by him. He made the entire circuit of the position. The next morning he proceeded down the river, with Captain Rodgers, to select the site best fitted for the encampment of his army. SEVENTH DAY. MALVERN HILL. Throughout the morning of Tuesday, there was every appearance that the Confederates were pre- paring for an engagement, but. it was not until three o'clock that fighing commenced in earnest. An hour later it ceased for a time along the whole line, but only to be renewed at six o'clock with increased vigor. " Brigade after brigade," General McClellan reports, " formed under cover of the woods, started at a run to cross the open space and charge our bat- teries ; but the heavy fire of our guns, with the cool and steady volleys of our infantry, in every ease, sent them reeling back to shelter, and covered the ground with their dead and wounded. In several instances our infantry withheld their fire until the attacking columns, which rushed through the storm of canister and shell from our artillery, had reached within a few yards of our lines. They then poured in a single volley, and dashed forward with the bayonet, cap- MALVEBN HILL. 313 turing prisoners and colors, and driving the routed columns in confusion from the field." This action took place on the left of the Federal line, commanded by Porter, who, about seven o'clock, as the enemy accumulated fresh troops in his front, was strengthened by re-enforcements from other corps. Until dark, the Confederates persisted in their efforts to take the positions so tenaciously hold; but, despite their vastly superior numbers, their repeated and desperate attacks were repulsed with fearful loss. McClellan returned to his army before the serious fighting commenced,* and, after riding along the * Much currency has been given to a slander emanating from the political enemies of General McClellan, to the effect that he remained on the gunboat " Galena" during this battle. Curi- ously, and we must suppose through inadvertence, a complete refutation if any was necessary of this calumny, appears in the columns of the New York Tribune of September 20th, 1864. We refer to extracts from the " Daily journal of a ward-room offi- cer of the United States Steamer Galena." It must, however, be distinctly noted that by the omission, in connection with these extracts, of all mention or reference to the hour of battle, a false impression is obviously sought to be conveyed to the casual reader. By this " authority" we are informed that the General returned to the Galena, from surveying a site for the encampment at Harrison's Landing, at 1.30 P. M., " when we started up the river." Heavy firing is heard in passing up. The General then " seems a little anxious, and looks now and then inquiringly at the signal officer, who is receiving a message from shore. In a minute or two, he reports : ' Heavy firing near Porter's division.' Next comes a message demanding his (Mc- Clellan's) presence on shore. A boat is manned, and, with three cheers from officers and crew, off goes the man upon whom hangs 14 314 THE SEVEN DATS* BATTLES. lines, stationed himself on the right, where he con- sidered the danger most imminent. The enemy, however, chose to attack the left, hurling his forces against Porter, whom he had vanquished at the destiny of the American people. The firing still continues nearer and louder than before. The enemy are making a despe- rate advance upon our artillery, but they never can pass the brow of that hill. About 6 p. M. we ran up and threw in a few shells, with good effect. 9 P. M. The firing has almost ceased. . . . 11 P. M. McClellan has just returned." The battle did not virtually begin till 3 p. M., by which time the gunboat would have returned to its vicinity, the dis- tance from Harrison's Landing being under twelve miles. The firing ceased an hour later, and it was not until 6 P. M. that the main engagement commenced, closing at dark. A comparison of these hours with those given in the Tribune, shows that McClellan was not on board the Galena during the battle. But even if the battle had been fought before his return, his absence would have been occasioned by the performance of a duty he could not sat- isfactorily depute to another. The same paper, a week later, inserted a letter, stated to be from an " ex-officer" of the Galena, who says : " I solemnly de- clare, that during the critical and most perilous time of that last day's battle at Malvern Hill, General George B. McClellan (with his staff, the French princes) was on board of our vessel. I also affirm that the aforesaid General did not go ashore at that place, but remained on board during the time the heaviest and most decisive fighting was done." This last statement is directly contradicted by the previous one, which asserts not only that the General did go ashore, but that the firing was " nearer and louder" after he had left the boat. Later still, the Tribune inserts the sworn statement of a soldier in the signal-corps, who declares : " It is within my own personal knowledge that official reports and communications were transmitted by our party, during the heat of the battle, by the several corps com- MALVERN HILL. 815 Gaines's Mill; but that general was more than a match for his foe, and to his valor must be awarded no small share of the honors of the day's victory. The gunboats rendered great service during the entire battle. The firing of their monster guns was directed by the signal corps, and their ponderous missiles occasioned great carnage in the rebel ranks. "It was at Malvern Hill," writes the author of War Pictures from the South, " that General McClellan displayed his talents in the most advan- tageous light. Notwithstanding his enormous losses, our desperate attempts to annihilate the Federal host failed to accomplish that much-cherished object of our whole army ; and for that unfulfilled wish, tor- rents of blood were prodigally shed. I may venture to say, that if McClellan had received the support that had been promised to him, he might have given a crushing blow to the Confederacy. manders, addressed to General George B. McClellan, who was then on board a gunboat on the James River, several miles dis- tant from the scene of action." He continues, " I was on duty on the station on Malvern Hill, from an early hour in the morn- ing until near noon." As the actual battle had not then com- menced, the assertoin by this individual that from his "own per- sonal knowledge" messages were sent to McClellan on board the gunboat " during the heat of the battle," is, according to his own showing, an unmitigated falsehood. He adds, "/ was not on duty on the station during the afternoon." Now, as it happens, this was the very time the conflict of the day took place. There is an old adage, " Liars should have good memories." It baa never been more truly exemplified than in these instances. 316 THE SEVEN DAYS' BATTLES. " When General McClellan took post before Rich- mond," the same writer also remarks, "he was per- fectly well aware of the momentous task he had before him. Knowing the -enemy's strength, he never treated him with contempt ; but he well knew the vast importance of unity and self-confi- dence. It was not his fault that he was beaten before Richmond ; his failure must be attributed to the blindness of his Government, who looked upon the foe as one easily to be vanquished. When McClellan had placed an iron collar round the throat of that foe, which he intended to draw gradually tighter, and had obtained a footing so close to Rich- mond that he could send his cannon balls into the very centre of the city, the Government at Wash- ington ought to have concentrated all its thoughts and energies to the one great object of sending McClellan as many troops as would enable him to assume and maintain the offensive." The attempts of the Confederates to annihilate the Federal army now terminated. In the numerous contests of the week, they could only claim that of Gaines's Mill as a victory. The Northern losses during the six days of the retreat were 15,249, of which number 1,582 were killed, 7,709' wounded, and 5,958 missing. The Southern losses in killed and wounded considerably exceeded these numbers. CHAPTER XVIII. EVACUATION OP THE PENINSULA. The Confederates foiled Arrival -at Harrison's Landing Un- bounded confidence in the commander His consummate gen- eralship Presidential palliatives and promises Address to the soldiers McClellan lays his views before the President New general-in-chief Malvern Hill retaken Orders to evac- uate the Peninsula McClellan's protest Uncourteous treat- ment The return march Disappointment of the troops The deserted encampment Men of straw An apparition "Dan Webster's" parting salute A kind word for the army solicited Departure from the Peninsula. "ATOTWITHSTANDING the complete victory -**S achieved at Malvern Hill, it was necessary for the national army to fall back still further from Richmond, so that it might reach a point where supplies could be received with certainty. Harri- son's Landing had been selected by the commander for the new position. "When it was discovered that McClellan had again retired, and was in full retreat," writes the author of Battle- Fields of the South, " Lee instantly recommenced the advance, although it rained in floods. But the Federals seemed to have vanished once more in the densely timbered swamp. The outposts saw no signs of them, and most of the day was lost before it was ascertained whither McClellan 818 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. had fled. Towards night it was discovered he had conducted his whole force by a narrow road through a thick, swampy wood, several miles in extent, and was safe under his gunboats at Harrison's Landing, having occupied the neighboring hills, and strongly fortified them. Our advance to his position could be made but by one roa'd, that which he had trav- ersed, and, as it was very narrow, and swept by numerous artillery, pursuit was impossible." The place to which the army retired was close to the house in which President Harrison was born, and about twenty-five miles from Richmond by the road. The last wagon did not reach it till after dark on the 3d, and the rear-guard did not move into camp until every thing was secure. When the troops got settled in their new encamp- ment, it was soon evident that the dread scenes of carnage through which they had passed, and the fatigue and hardships of the retreat, had not shaken their confidence in their general. Faith in him had borne them along, and encouraged them to sur- mount every trial, difficulty, and danger, and had been the means of keeping up their spirits and dis- cipline. A private letter, written from Harrison's Landing ten days after the army ar,rived there, and to which the New York Times gave a prominent place in its columns, recounts the terrible trials passed through, and the ghastly appearance of the men at the close of the contests, caused by absence CONFIDENCE IN THE COMMANDER. 319 of rest and proper nourishment, having subsisted for several days on nothing but hard bread and coffee, and then says : "Our confidence in Mc- Clellan is unbounded. No one in the army has had his faith in our young general impaired. Retreat we must whenever Davis chooses to precipitate his army upon us. That we were any of us saved is the re- sult only of McClellan's genius. That the country has now an Army of the Potomac, is owing entirely to the discipline of the men and the faith in their captains. Every reviler of Me Clellan is only aiding the South. There are only two sides to this matter ; no neutral ground; any hesitating or qualifying is only so much treason." The writer further remarks, that the whole cause of the retreat " is easily summed up : we were outnumbered, as we always have been ;" and adds, "but we have one consoling reflection, they (the rebels) could not drive us from a single field while the battle progressed. The war will be prolonged, foreign intervention rendered probable, and the debt increased ; to all of which I only ask, 4 Why were we not re-enforced in time ?' " The New ITor'k Times editorially remarks of McClellan's generalship in these actions : " That he saved the army against such odds and under such circumstances, and that he has been able to place it upon a new base of operations from which he may renew his attack upon the rebel capital with in- creased chances of success, affords such proofs of 320 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. consummate generalship as few living soldiers can show. McClellan was not deceived, but he was helpless. He knew that the rebels outnumbered him, and he was thus placed in a position of the utmost peril, from which extrication might seem almost impossible." The Times, in over-zeal for its political party, is now a reviler of General McClellan, and, thus, according to the letter in its pages, " is only aiding the South." President Lincoln now began to discover the ter- rible mistake he had made, and, as a palliative for the injury he had inflicted upon McClellan and his brave army, frequently forwarded to the General expressions of admiration, coupled with morceaux of military advice and promises of support. We append a few extracts : June 28. " Save your army, at all events. *Will send re-enforcements as fast as we can. Of course they cannot be with you to-day, to-morrow, or next day. ... I feel any misfortune to you and your army quite as keenly as you feel it yourself. . . . It is the nature of the case, and neither you nor the Government is to blame." July 1. "Maintain your ground if you can, but save the army at all events, even if you fall back to Fort Monroe. We still have strength enough in the country, and will bring it out." July 2. " If you think you are not strong enough to take Richmond just now, I do not ask you to. PRESIDENTIAL PROMISES. 321 Try just now to save the army, material and person- nel, and I will strengthen it for the offensive again as fast as I can." July 3, " I am satisfied that yourself, officers, and men have done the best you could. All accounts say better fighting was never done. Ten thousand thanks for it." July 5. "Be assured the heroism and skill of yourself, officers, and men, is and forever will be appreciated. If you can hold your present position, we shall hive the enemy yet." These promises, made in some of the most solemn hours of the nation's life, McClellan was fain to be- lieve would be fulfilled; consequently, in the follow- ing address, issued to his soldiers on the nation's birthday, he led them to hopes of future conquest. Alas ! he rested his strength upon a broken reed. " SOLDIERS OF THE ARMY OF THE POTOMAC : Your achievements of the last ten days have illus- trated the valor and endurance of the American sol- dier. Attacked by superior forces, and without hope of re-enforcements, you have succeeded in changing your base of operations by a flank movement, always regarded as the most hazardous of military expedi- ents. You have saved all your material, all your trains, and all your guns, except a few lost in battle, taking in return guns and colors from the enemy. Upon your march, you have been assailed day after day with desperate fury, by men of the same race 14* 322 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. and nation, skilfully massed and led. Under every disadvantage of number, and necessarily of position also, you have in every conflict beaten back your foes with enormous slaughter. Your conduct ranks you among the celebrated armies of history. No one will now question that each of you may always with pride say : * I belong to the army of the Potomac.' You have reached the new base, complete in organi- zation and unimpaired in spirit. The enemy may at any moment attack you. We are prepared to meet them. I have personally established your lines. Let them come, and we will convert their repulse into a final defeat. Your Government is strengthening you with the resources of a great people. On this, our nation's birthday, we delare to our foes, who are rebels against the best interests of mankind, that this army shall enter the capital of the so-called Confed- eracy ; that our national Constitution shall prevail, aud that the Union, which can alone insure internal peace and external security to each State, ' must and shall be preserved,' cost what it may in time, treas- ure, and blood." On the 4th, Mr. Lincoln wrote McClellan to the effect that it was impossible to re-enforce him materi- ally for several weeks, but that he would receive ten thousand troops from Burnside very soon, and five thousand from Hunter a little later. When Burnside's force arrived at Fortress Monroe, a few clays afterwards, its destination was changed from VISIT OF THE PRESIDENT. 323 Harrison's Landing to Acquia Creek ! In the same letter, he kindly said : " If at any time you feel able to take the offensive, you are not restrained from doing so." What a mockery ! As well might he clip the wings of an eagle, and then bid the bird to fly. General McClellan felt impressed with the belief that it was incumbent upon him to lay before the Pres- ident his general views concerning the then existing state of the rebellion, although they did not strictly relate to the position of his ajrmy, or strictly come within the scope of his official duties. He therefore, on July 7th, wrote Mr. Lincoln on the subject, pre- facing the communication with the assertion that the views amounted to convictions, and were deeply impressed upon his mind and heart. The President visited the Army of the Potomac on the following day, which gave the General an opportunity of deliv- ering the letter in person. This was done on the deck of the steamboat at Harrison's bar, and the communication was there and then read to the Presi- dent by its writer. Mr. Lincoln did not express any dissent to the patriotic and high-toned principles it placed before him for consideration ; but the political history of the past two years sufficiently evidences that if they were then implanted in his heart, the soil was too barren to admit of their taking root. In this letter the General remarks : "Our cause must never be abandoned it is the cause of free institutions and self-government. The 324 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. Constitution and the Union must be preserved, what- ever may be the cost in time, treasure, and blood. If Secession is successful, other dissolutions are cJearly to be seen in the future. Let neither military disaster, political faction, nor foreign war shake your settled purpose to enforce the equal operation of the laws of the United States upon the people of every State. . . . " This rebellion has assumed the character of a war; as such it should be regarded, and it should be con- ducted upon the highest principles known to Chris- tian civilization. It should not be a war looking to the subjugation of the people of any State, in any event. It should not be at all a war upon population, but against armed forces and political organization. Neither confiscation of property, political executions of persons, territorial organizations of States, or forcible abolition of slavery, should be contemplated for a moment. In prosecuting the war, all private property and unarmed persons should be strictly protected, subject only to the necessity of military operations. All private property taken for military use should be paid or receipted for; pillage and waste should be treated as high crimes ; all unneces- sary trespass sternly prohibited, and offensive de- meanor by the military towards citizens, promptly rebuked. Military arrests should not be tolerated, except in places where active hostilities exist ; and oaths not required by enactments constitutionally LETTER TO THE PRESIDENT. 82 5 made, should be neither demanded nor received. Military government should be confined to the pres- ervation of public order and the protection of politi- cal right. Military power should not be allowed to interfere with the relations of servitude, either by supporting or impairing the authority of the master, except for repressing disorder, as in other cases. Slaves contraband under the Act of Congress, seek- ing military protection, should receive it. The right of the Government to appropriate permanently to its own service claims to slave labor should be asserted, and the right of the owner to compensation therefor should be recognized. . . . " In carrying out any system of policy which you may form, you will require a commander-in-chief of the army one who possesses your confidence, un- derstands your views, and who is competent to execute your orders by directing the military forces of the nation to the accomplishment of the objects by you proposed. I do not ask that place for my- self. I am willing to serve you in such position as you may assign me, and I will do so as faithfully as ever subordinate served superior. " I may be on the brink of eternity, and, as I hope forgiveness from my Maker, I have written this letter with sincerity toward you, and from love for my country." The President, a couple of days after visiting Harrison's Landing, gave the chief command of the 326 EVACUATION OP THE PENINSULA. armies of the Union to General Halleck. This ap- pointment doubtless led McClellan to the conclusion, that as he would now have to deal with a soldier, who would be more likely to understand the nature of his position than a civilian, a more cheerful aspect of affairs would ensue. However, if he did think so, he was much mistaken. One of the first acts of the new general-in-chief was to issue instructions for the sick to be sent home, so that the army might be the better enabled " to move in any direction." This was presumed to contemplate a forward movement, and, in order to prepare the way, an expedition was dispatched in the direction of Richmond, and, on the 5th of August, Malvern Hill retaken. A few days previous to this, Coggin's Point, on the oppo- site side of the James River, was occupied as a pre- ventative against the enemy shelling the encampment from that quarter. The object of the order was, however, soon apparent, for directions were immedi- ately afterwards issued for the transfer of the Army of the Potomac to Acquia Creek. McClellan at once protested against this change, couching his re- monstrance in candid and courteous language, to which he only received curt and uncourteous re- plies. He stated to the General-in-Chief, that he must confess the order for the evacuation of the Peninsula had caused him the greatest pain he ever experienced; he was convinced that the change would prove disastrous to the cause, and feared it A REMONSTRANCE. 327 would be a fatal blow. He gave his reasons for believing the Peninsula to be the best field of opera- tions against Richmond, and in conclusion remarked : " Clear in my convictions of right, strong in tLe consciousness that I have ever been, and still am actuated solely by the love of my country, knowing that no ambitious or selfish motives have influenced me from the commencement of this war, I do now, what I never did in my life before I entreat that this order may be rescinded. " If my counsel does not prevail, I will, with a sad heart, obey your orders to the utmost of my power, directing to the movement, which I clearly foresee will be one of the utmost delicacy and diffi- culty, whatever skill I may possess. Whatever the result may be, and may God grant that I am mis- taken in my forebodings, I shall at least have the internal satisfaction that I have written and spoken frankly, and have sought to do the best in my power to avert disaster from my country." But the administration was deaf to the promptings of reason, and determined that the order should not be rescinded. Difficulties occurring in the obtain- ment of transports, McClellan travelled a hundred miles to a telegraph station, for the purpose of hold- ing speedy and direct communication with General Halleck, and saving the time that would otherwise be consumed by the transmission of messages to and from the camp ; but, notwithstanding the importance 328 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. of the business, the distance travelled, and the dis- tinction of the man who wished to hold converse with him, the General-in-Chief, after dispatching a single brief message, and without waiting to ascertain the object of the journey, walked out of the office at the Washington end of the wire, his time, doubtless, being so engrossed by official duties that he had none to bestow upon the amenities of life. The movement of the army from Harrison's Land- ing commenced on August 15th, and was completed the following day. The troops marched by way of Williamsburg to Yorktown and Newport News, from which two last places they were forwarded in transports to the Potomac. When orders were issued to the soldiers to pre- pare for the movement, they were received with loud cheers, for the men were rejoiced at the termina- tion of their suspense, and at the prospect of again soon meeting the enemy. They anticipated an ad- vance towards Richmond for the purpose of co- operating with General Pope, who was then moving on that city from the north. But when informed of the destination, their spirits were depressed, for they could not, or would not believe, that after the sacrifices they had sustained upon the Peninsula, they were about to abandon it. They could not realize the fact that the proud Army of the Poto- mac was now to retrace its steps and return to-the banks of the river from which it derived its name. MEN OF STRAW. 329 General McClellan and his personal staff were the last to leave Harrison's Landing, and bid farewell to a spot to be forever memorable in history as the vicinity of the army's most brilliant exploits. It was still covered with the marks of its presence. A scene of desolation usurped the ground, on which had been recently spread the tented field, and silence reigned where the bugle's blast, and the rumbling sound of the drum, had before been heard. Sad thoughts ran through the brains of those who were left the sole occupants of the place. The debris of the encampment that lay around, and a few worn- out and sick horses, tormented by the flies that prowled about, were not cheering objects to the vision. Before following in the wake of the army, the General and his staff paid a visit to the deserted head-quarters of General Franklin. At some little distance from this spot, men were still seen on picket duty ; they were, however, but men of straw, and of such a peaceful nature that they would injure neither an enemy nor a friend. The soldiers had' stuffed a lot of old uniforms, and placed old muskets in their arms, wherewith to salute the rebels when they came to take possession. During the short stay here, an incident occurred which served, for a moment, to divert the attention of the party from their depression. Whilst they were stretched out on the ground, under the shade 330 EVACUATION OF THE PENINSULA. of some trees, a strange and uninvited visitor ap- proached them, and the singularity of his appearance gave rise to a roar of laughter. A bundle of ani- mated canvas was all that could be seen, from which a couple of large eyes calmly surveyed the party. A couple of long ears, and twice that number of legs, protruded from the canvas sack. The visitor spoke not with his lips, but his eyes bespoke that he im- plored relief. The soldiers had sown up in a tight canvas covering, so that he could be protected from the flies, and so that he might be appropriately at- tired to receive the rebels a donkey! When General McClellan left the Landing, he was mounted on his horse "Dan Webster," a very quiet steed, and a great favorite of both its rider and the men. On this occasion, however, " Dan" forgot his usual good 'manners and regular, steady habits. As the party moved . away from the place, where they had lingered long after the departure of the rest of the army, the animal took to a desperate fit of kick- ing with his heels, which could only be construed into a parting salute to the enemy. When the Peninsula campaign terminated, Mc- Clellan thought the time an appropriate one for the General-in-Chief to give, in general orders, some ap- preciative expression of the services of the army during its progress. He, therefore, forwarded to him the following dispatch : " Please say a kind word to my army, that I can A TOUCHING APPEAL. 331 repeat to them in General Orders, in regard to their conduct at Yorktown, Williamsburg, West Point, Hanover Court-House, and on the Chickahorainy, as well as in regard to the seven days and the recent retreat. No one has ever said any thing to cheer them but myself. Say nothing about me; merely give my men and officers credit for what they have done. It will do you much good, and will strengthen you much with them, if you issue a handsome order to them in regard to what they have accomplished. They deserve it." As this touching appeal neither received the courtesy of a reply, nor brought forth the de- sired order, in justice to General Halleck, we may presume that it di