Sr Mi&sftpis& iq&fv fryfiya . !.*■ ■ * \ ► General U, S. Grant's TOUR Around the World, EMBRACING HIS Speeches, Receptions, and Description of his Travels. W I T II A BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF HIS LIFE. EDITED BY L. T. REMLAP. , ttOUv su~u. CHICAGO: J. FAIRBANKS & CO. New York: F. O. Evans & Co. Fond du Lac, Wis.: G. L. Ben- jamin. Cleveland: C. C. Wick & Co. COPYRIGHTED. J. FAIRBANKS & CO. 1879. 3371 PRINTED BY CUSHtNG, THOMAS * CO. CHICAGO. 4-0 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. LIFE OF GENERAL U. S. GRANT. His Birth — His Father — Early Education at West Point — In Mex- ico — Garrison Life — Marriage — A Farmer — April 12, 1861 — A Colo- nel — Battle of Belmont — Forts Henry and Donaldson — Shiloh — At Vicks- burg — With the Army of the Potomac — Surrender of Lee — Farewell Address — Disbandment of the Army — Secretary of War ad interim — Nomination for President — Inaugural — A Second Term — His achieve- ments, - .-.---_.. -9 CHAPTER II. OFF FOR EUROPE. Departure from Philadelphia — Rousing Demonstration — On the Ocean — Arrival at Queenstown — Liverpool — Grand Reception — A Round of Pleasure — At the Docks — Mayor's Reception and Ball, . 17 J CHAPTER III. GENERAL GRANT IN LONDON. His Arrival — Prince of Wales — Grand Banquet — Duke of Welling- ton — Waterloo Chamber — At Westminster Abbey — Reception at the American Legation — Grand Ball — Buckingham Palace — Freedom of the City of London — Magnificent Reception — Its Significance — Gold Casket — Distinguished Guests — Marquis of Lome, 27 CHAPTER IV. GRANT IN ENGLAND. A Letter to D. W. Childs — Dining with the Prince of Wales— At Minister Pierrepont's — Royal Opera House — Banquet by Trinity House — Speech by the Prince of Wales — Address by Earl Carnarvon — General 3616( Y.\ 4 CONTENTS. Grant's Reply — Reception by Queen Victoria — State Dinner — Ladies' Toilets — State Concert — Grand Banquet Tendered by the City of Liver- pool — Addresses — General Badeau — United Service Club — American Legation, ...------.43 CHAPTER V. ON THE CONTINENT. At Brussels — Reception and Dinner by King Leopold — At Co- logne — Visiting Churches and the Cathedral — At Frankfort — Great Reception — A Grand Ball — At Hamburg — At Lucerne — Berne — Geneva — Laying a Corner Stone — At Pallanza — At Copenhagen — Ulysses — A Happy Speech, -------56 CHAPTER VI. RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN. Presented with the Freedom of Edinburgh — Enthusiastic Recep- tion — Lord Provost's Speech — Grant's Reply — Tay Bridge — Its De- scription — City of Wick — At Glasgow — The Finest and Most Enthu- siastic Reception — Speech of Mr. Anderson — Grant's Long Speech — Remarkable Reception at Newcastle — At Northumberland — Gateshead — At Sheffield — At Birmingham — Speeches, ... 61 CHAPTER VII. GENERAL GRANT IN PARIS. Adieu to England — Bologne — At Paris — Enthusiastic Reception — Palace d' Elysee — Grand Banquet by Resident Americans — Recep- ion by Minister Noyes — Menu — Brilliant Assemblage — Banquet at Marshal McMahon's — Address — Grant's Reply — A Comparison — Mrs. Mackay's Reception — Extravagance of Display — Dinner at Mrs. Sickles' — At Mr. Harjes, - - -- ---74 CHAPTER VIII. THROUGH FRANCE — ITALY. At Lyons — Marseilles — Genoa — Reception on Board the Van- dalia — At Naples — Mt. Vesuvius — "House of Refuge" — Ruins of Pompeii — Special Excavation — Interesting Relics — Royal Palace — At CONTENTS. 5 Palermo — Christmas Dinner — Menu — How He Traveled — Land of Many Civilizations — Brigandage — At Malta — Duke of Edinburgh — Palace San Antonio — Adieu, ..--..- 89 CHAPTER IX. IN EGYPT AND THE LOTUS LAND. A Severe Storm — At Alexandria — Oriental Etiquette — The Pacha — Reception — Brilliant Entertainment at Vice-Consul Salvage — Henry M. Stanley — The Khedive calls on General Grant — A Host' s Thoughtful- ness — At Siout — The Donkey Ride — Inspecting the Town — Speech of the Pacha's Son — At Girgelto Ruined City of Abydos — God Osiris — Excavations — At Thebes — City of a Hundred Gates — Its Magnifi- cent Ruins — The Great Temple of Karnak — At Keneh — At Assowan — Philse — The First Cataract — The Return — At Memphis — Sacred Bulls at Kaser-el-Nousa, -.---- .-96 CHAPTER X. TURKEY AND THE HOLY LAND. At Jaffa — Ruins of Gezer — David and Goliah — At Jerusalem — Bishops and Patriarchs — Stroll on the Via Dolorosa — Ruins and Relics — Dives — Calvary — Brook Kedron — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Mount of Olives — Bethany — At Damascus — At Athens — Grand Entertain- ment by the King at Naples — At Rome — His Clerical Visitor — At Turin — Return to the French Capital — At the Exposition — A Game of Polo — Ball at Mr. Healy's — At the Hague — Great Demonstration at Rotterdam — At Amsterdam — Enthusiastic Welcome — The Dutch Ex- cited, 110 CHAPTER XI. GRANT IN GERMANY, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA. General Grant at Berlin — An Evening Stroll — Prince Bismarck — Great Peace Congress — Attempt to Assassinate the Emperor — Bismarck Calls on Mrs. Grant — Reception at Minister Taylor's — Crown Prince — Military Manoeuvers — Dining with Bismarck — Bottle of Schnapps — At Gothenburg — Immense Crowd — At Christiana — King Oscar II. — Turning out en masse at Stockholm — Grand Banquet — At St. Peters- 6 CONTENTS. burgh — Prince Gortschakoff — With the Czar — At the Versailles of St. Petersburgh — Grand Duke Alexis — At Moscow — At Warsaw — Vi- enna — Grand Reception — At Zurich, .... 119 CHAPTER XII. GENERAL GRANT IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. Again at Paris — Reception by Minister Noyes — In Spain — Span- ish Life and Character — Alfonso XII. — San Sebastian — Grand Annual Military Review at Victoria — Palace of Ayuntamiento — At Madrid — At- tempt on Alfonzo's Life — The Shot Seen by General Grant — Escape — Congratulations — At Lisbon — Dining with King Luis — A Cordial Re- ception — At Seville — Duke de Montpensier — At Cadiz — Enthusias- tic Reception — At Gibraltar — Old Friends — Lord Napier — Grand Review — At Pau — Return to Paris, - 135 CHAPTER XIII. GENERAL GRANT IN IRELAND. Irish Interest — A Citizen of Dublin — Grand Ovation — Long Speech from General Grant — Good Times Coming — Trinity College — Insultfrom Cork — Grant's Friendship Toward Catholics — Unparalleled Reception at Derry — Denouncing the Insult of Corkonians — Curiosi- ties of Ulster — Old Soldiers — At Belfast — Imposing and Extraordi- nary Reception — Stopping the Linen Mills — At the Ship Yards — At Kingston — The Irish Welcome Compared toothers, - - 146 CHAPTER XIV. GENERAL GRANT IN INDIA. Again in London — Paris — Marseilles — Delightful Trip Through the Mediteranean — Description of Trip — At Alexandria — A Railroad Ride in Egypt — At Suez — On the Red Sea — At Aden — Bombay — Enthusiastic Reception — Holy Place of the Hindoos — A Parsee Mer- chant — The Byculla Club — Flagship Eurydius — Elephanta Caves — Reception at the Government House — Singular Custom — Caste — Hat- red of Races — A Farewell — At Tatulpur — At Allahabad — Agra — The Maharajah of Jeypore — At Amber — A Native City Under Native Rule — Gas in India — Elephant Ride — The Temple — A Kid Sacrificed at the Palace — Nautch Dancing Girls — Playing Billiards — A Royal Photograph, •-.----.-. 161 CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER XV. STILL IN INDIA. At Burtpoor — A Princely Reception — Tuttehpoor Sikva — Akbar — Interesting Ruins — At Benares — Sacred City — At the Ganges '' Holy Kasi ' ' — A City of Priests — Fourteen Hundred and Fifty Temples — A Sacred Ruler — Burning the Body — At Delhi — Military Reception — Its Splendor — The Palace of the Grand Mogul — The Kutah Tower — At Calcutta — Lord Lytton's Speech — Continuous Round of Enjoyment — At Rangoon, Burmah — The Philadelphia of Burmah — Commercial Advantages — Opening for American Merchants, - - 186 CHAPTER XVI. GENERAL GRANT IN SIAM. At Singapore — Interesting Letter from the King of Siam — Bang- kok -*■ Another Letter — Embarking — Reception at the King's Pal- ace — The ex-Regent — An Aged Statesman — Mr. Borie and the King — Royal Proclamation — A Second King — His Income — A Polit- ical Influence — First King of Siam — Grand Palace — Elegant Furnish- ing — An Audience with the King — The King Returns the Visit — An Interesting Conversation — Correspondence Promised — A State Dinner — Who Were There — The Surroundings — King's Speech — General Grant's Reply — A Delightful Week, 200 CHAPTER XVII. GENERAL GRANT IN CHINA. At Saigon — The Government House — Hong Kong — At Canton — Its Situation — The Viceroy — Special Honors — Bulletin — Chairs of Rank — Two Hundred Thousand People — Members of Court — The En- tertainment — Dinner at Consul-General Lincoln's — Greatest Demon- stration of Trip — At Macao — The Grotto of Camocns — Reception at Hong Kong — An Address — General Grant's Reply — Parting Salutes — At Swatow — Chinese Governor — Amoy — A Stroll Through the Town — Letters from the King of Siam and King of the Sandwich Islands and the Viceroy of Canton — General Grant's Replies — At Shanghai — Unexpected Greetings — An Address — Reply — At Tientsin — The Viceroy — Extraordinary Conversation at Pekin — Reception by 8 CONTENTS. the Prince Imperial — Confidential Proposition —Flattering Reception — Unusual Demonstration by the Prince — Return to Tientsin — The Viceroy's Friendly Visits — Pleasure of General Grant — Farewell to China, 220 CHAPTER XVIII. GENERAL GRANT IN JAPAN. At Nagasaki — Banqueted by Citizens — The Herald's Graphic De- scription — Address of Merchants — Fish and Soup — Arrival at Tokio — Palace of Enriokwan — Its Gardens — The Bazaars — A Native Dance — Reception at the College of Engineering — At Yokohama — Grand Reception — Address of Welcome — Feast of Lanterns — A Brilliant Spectacle — Reception by the Emperor — His Palace — Japanese Eti- quette — Address of the Emperor and Empress — In the Mountains — At the Old Capital — Interesting tete a tete with the Emperor — Fare- well to Japan — Sailing of the Tokio, ----- 256 CHAPTER XIX. GENERAL GRANT'S RETURN. Embarking From Tokio — Date of Arrival — Review of Tour — Preparation for His Reception — The Great Excursion — Not Flattering to the American People — Out of the Presidential Race — Admiral Am- men — Hon. E. B. Washburn — Murat Halstead — His Positive Accept- ance of the Presidency of the Nicaragua Ship Canal Company — Letter to Admiral Ammen — Reception Programme at San Francisco — On the Watch — Magnificent Ovation Expected — The "Sand Lot" Braggart — Threat to Hang Grant in Effigy — Intense Excitement — Probable Result, 312 CHAPTER I. LIFE OF ULYSSES S. GRANT. Ulysses Simpson Grant was born April 23, 1822, at Point Pleasant, Clermont county, Ohio, a small town on the Ohio river, twenty-five miles above Cincinnati. The Grants are of Scotch descent, and the motto of their clan in Aberdeenshire was, " Stand fast, stand firm, stand sure." Grant inherits from many of his ancestors a love for freedom and a determination to fight for its cause. In 1799, his grandfather, a Pennsylvania farmer, joined the great tide of emigration moving to the Northwest Terri- tory. His great-grandfather, Captain Noah Grant, of Wind- sor, Connecticut, and his brother, Lieutenant Solomon Grant, were soldiers in the old French war, and were both killed in battle in 1756. His grandfather, also Noah Grant, of Windsor, hurried from his fields at the first conflict of the Revolution, and appeared as a lieutenant on Lexington Common on the morning of the memorable 19th of April, when the em- battled farmers " fired the shot heard round the world." His father, Jesse R. Grant, was born in Westmoreland county, Pa., in 1794. Was apprenticed to the tanner's trade at the early age of eleven years. Removed to May- ville, Kentucky, thence to Point Pleasant, Ohio, where he followed the business of a tanner. In 1869 he was appointed postmaster at Covington, Kentucky, by President Grant, and died in 1874. IO GENERAL U. S. GRANTS Like other great men, Grant had an excellent mother — a pious woman, cheerful, unambitious of worldly dis- play, watchful of her children, and "looking well to the ways of her household." Her husband pays her the high- est tribute which can be paid to any wife and mother in saying, " Her steadiness, firmness and strength of character have been the stay of the family through life." Love of their children has ever been a marked trait in the Grant family. He was originally christened Hiram Ulysses; his grand- father giving the name of Hiram; his grandmother, who was a great student of history, giving the name of Ulysses, whose character had strongly attracted her admiration. The member of congress who appointed Grant to his ca- detship at West Point when a boy of seventeen, by acci- dent changed his name, in filling his appointment, to U. S. Grant. Grant repeatedly endeavored to have the mistake corrected at West Point, and at the war department at Washington; but this was one of the few things in which he failed; his applications were never complied with. As if fate foresaw the patriotic duty, the filial love, the tran- scendant services he was one day to render his country, the government seemed to insist, when adopting him among her military children, on renaming him, and giving to him her own initials, "U. S.," which he has ever since borne. Grant was neither a precocious nor a stupid child ; he was a well-behaved, dutiful boy. He attended the public school in the village; he learned well, but was no prodigy. He never liked his father's business of tanning. It was disagreeable; and he early determined not to follow it. He wanted an education. He said he would be a farmer, or trade down the river; but a tanner he would not be. His father, with limited means, did not feel that, in jus- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. II tice to himself and his other children, he could afford the money to send him to college. He applied, with the boy's assent, for a vacant cadet- ship at West Point. The appointment was made by Hon. T. L. Hamer, the member of congress from the district. It is remarkable that, without any preparatory study, he passed the rigid examination which all cadets are obliged to undergo. But Grant received at West Point the best education a man can receive, namely, that which fits him for his work in life. He was subjected to a course of physical training which invigorated his body. He was taught fencing, drawing, riding, dancing; he was taught science, mathe- matics, the modern languages, constitutional and interna- tional law, and engineering. Young Grant appreciated and improved all the oppor- tunities which were offered to him. He gave those years diligently to self-improvement in the widest sense. He graduated with a good rank in his class; and, what was better, without vices which enfeebled his body, or mental habits which depraved his mind. In July, 1843, he entered the United States army as a brevet second lieutenant in the fourth infantry. Ordered to the frontier of Missouri among the Indians, he remained nearly two years, when, in 1845, he was ordered to Corpus Christi, Texas, where United States troops were gathering under command of General Taylor. From the first attack on Fort Brown, opposite Matamoras, Grant was in every battle in the Mexican war except Buena Vista — fourteen in all — and conducted himself with distinguished bravery, which elicited special mention from his superiors in com- mand. In 1847 he was appointed brevet captain, and in 1853 to a full captaincy. At the close of the war, Captain Grant returned to the United States, and was subsequently stationed on the Cana- 12 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS dian frontier, in California and in Oregon. But garrison life, in that lonely region, offered no opportunities of use- fulness, and he determined to resign his commission, which he did in July, 1854. He moved to St. Louis, and there married Miss Julia Dent, daughter of a merchant of that city. Taking a small farm in the suburbs of St. Louis, he labored in the life of a farmer. In 1859 he moved to Ga- lena, Illinois, entered in business, and was residing there on the 12th of April, 1861. The "first shot" at Fort Sumter moved Grant to the utmost depths of his being. He said to a friend: "The government has educated me for the army. What I am, I owe to my country. I have served her through one war, and, live or die, will serve her through this." Recruiting a company at Galena, he was at once made adjutant- general of the State; on the 15th of June, 1861, was commissioned colonel of the Twenty-first Illinois Volunteers, stationed at Mexico, Missouri; made brigadier-general May 17, 1861, and on 1st September or- dered to Cairo, and at once took possession of Paducah, Kentucky; 7th of November, fighting the battle of Bel- mont, with 2,850 men, against 7,000 Confederates — Fed- eral loss, 400; Rebel, 875. On the 2d of February he, with the aid of the navy, under Commodore Foote, cap- tured Fort Henry, on the Tennessee river. On February 15th, captured Fort Donaldson, on the Cumberland river, the key to Nashville, Tennessee, with 65 guns, 17,600 small arms, nearly 15,000 soldiers, with horses, mules and army supplies ; his loss was about 2,000 men. Grant was immediately nominated and confirmed as a major-general. By this victory the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers were opened, Nashville fell, Columbus was abandoned, Bowl- ing Green evacuated, and the States of Kentucky and Tennessee were rescued from the Rebel armies. The battles of Shiloh and Pittsburgh Landing were fought April 6 and 7, 1863, resulting in a victory to the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I 3 Federal arms, and was one of the most hotly contested fields of the war. General Grant has said, since the close of the war, that it was, with one exception — that of the Wilderness — the most terrific which he saw in the war. On the 3d of June Shiloh was evacuated, and in a few days New Orleans was captured and Memphis fell. April 30, 1863, captured Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; May 14 he captured Jackson, the capital of Mississippi; fought the battle of Champion Hills, defeating the Confederate Gen- eral Pemberton, losing 2,457 men j the Rebel loss was over 4,000 killed and wounded and 3,000 prisoners; invested Vicksburg May 19, receiving its surrender July 4, 1863. The results of the summer campaign in the investment and capture of Vicksburg were the defeat of the enemy in five battles, the occupation of Jackson, a loss to the enemy of 56,000 prisoners, with 10,000 killed and wounded, arms and munitions of war for 60,000 men, and nearly 200 cannon. Grant had lost 943 killed, 7,095 wounded and 537 missing, and had made the largest capture ever made in war. On November 25 he carried the heights of Missionary Ridge, Ringold a few days after, and relieved the siege of Knox- ville, thus virtually closing the war in the southwest. On the 3d of March, 1864, he was confirmed as lieutenant-gen- eral and ordered to Washington, and on May 5, 6 and 7 fought the bloody battles of the Wilderness, and June 1 that of Cold Harbor. The whole series of brilliant military operations, by which General Grant had carried an army of 100,000 men, in forty-three days, from the Rapidan to the James, without the loss of a wagon, compelling his able an- tagonist to race at his side for the safety of the capital, will never cease to be the study and admiration of the military student. On the 15th of June he invested Petersburg, Virginia, with an army of over 100,000 men, his lines embracing a circuit of thirty miles. During the siege of Petersburg oc- 14 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS curred the victorious battles of the Shenandoah under General Philip Sheridan, and the great march of General Sherman "to the sea," when about 65,000 men swept over the country in a track fifty miles wide. Accompanying this army were 3,500 wagons and 35,000 horses ; 1,328 pris- oners and 167 guns were taken; the Federal loss in killed 63, and 245 wounded; 5,000 horses and 4,000 mules appropriated, 20,000 bales of cotton burned and 25,000 captured at Savannah; 13,000 head of cattle, 10,000,000 pounds of corn, 1,217,527 rations of meat, 919,000 of bread, 483,000 of coffee, 581,534 of sugar, 1,145,500 of soap, 137,000 of salt, and 10,000,000 of fodder were taken. By this severing of the Confederacy, Charleston was evacuated, Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, captured, and April 13 the army had occupied Raleigh, North Carolina. April 2, Grant captured Petersburg, after three days of hard fight- ing; the capture of Richmond the following day, and the surrender of General Lee and the Army of Virginia at Appomatox Court House April 9, 1865, followed by the surrender of General Joseph E.Johnston to General Sher- man on the 26th, and on the 4th of May of General Taylor, with all the Confederate forces east of the Mississippi, and the surrender of General Kirby Smith, with all of his com- mand west of the Mississippi, on May 26th. The war was thus ' terminated with the surrender of all the Con- federate Government, its President, Jefferson Davis, having been captured on the nth of May, at Irwinsville, Georgia. The number of Rebel soldiers who surrendered was 174,223. The number of prisoners was 98,802. The Union armies under command of General Grant numbered 1,000,516 soldiers. Their commander might well be proud of the great services which with him they had performed for the country. He issued the following farewell address: "Soldiers of the Akmies of the United States : By your patriotic de- votion to your country in the hour of danger and alarm, your magnificent fight- ing, bravery and endurance, you have maintained the supremacy of the Union and TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 15 the Constitution, overthrown all armed opposition to the enforcement of the laws and the proclamations forever abolishing slavery — the cause and pretext of the Re- bellion — and opened the way to the rightful authorities to restore order, and inaugu- rate peace on a permanent and enduring- basis on every toot of American soil. Your marches, seiges and battles, in distance, duration, resolution and brilliancy of results, dim the lustre of the world's past military achievements, and will be the patriot's precedent in the defence of liberty and right in all time to come. In obe- dience to your country's call, you left your homes and families, and volunfrred in her defence. Victory has crowned your valor and secured the purpose of your pat- riotic hearts; and with the gratitude of your countrymen, and the highest honors a great and free nation can accord, you will soon be permitted to return to your homes and families, conscious of having discharged the highest duty of Ameri- can citizens. To achieve these glorious triumphs, and secure to yourselves, fellow- countrymen and posterity, the blessings of free institutions, tens of thousands of your gallant comrades have fallen, and sealed the priceless legacy with their blood. The graves of these a grateful nation bedews with tears, honors their memories, and will ever cherish and support their stricken families." The war had now closed, and General Grant now ad- dressed himself with great energy to the works of peace. By the 22d of August he had succeeded in mustering out of the army 719,338, and by November 15, 1865, there had been returned to their homes 800,963 men. This was rap- idly followed every month until 1,023,021 had been dis- charged. Horses and mules had been sold to the value of $15,269,000; barracks and hospitals $447,873; damaged clothing yielded $902,770; military railroads, 2,630 miles, with 6,695 cars an ^ 433 locomotives transferred over to proper authorities, and railroad equipments were sold amounting to $10,910,812. The whole number of men enlisted at different times during the war was 2,688,522. Of these, 56,000 were killed in battle; 219,000 died of wounds and disease in the military hospitals, and 80,000 died after discharge, from disease contracted during service; making a total loss of about 300,000 men. About 200,000 were crippled or per- manently disabled. Of colored troops, 180,000 enlisted and 30,000 died. More than $300,000,000 was paid in bounties, and by States, towns and cities for the support of the fami- lies of soldiers. The Sanitary Commission disbursed, in money and supplies, $14,600,000. The Christian Com- mission disbursed $4,^00,000. 16 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S Congress at once passed a bill to revive the grade, " General of the army of the United States," and General Grant was appointed to the position. On December 12, 1867, he was appointed by President Johnson Secretary of War ad interim, in the place of Hon. E. M. Stanton, suspended, which position he held until December following, when the senate refused to sanction the suspension of Mr. Stanton. On the 21st of May, 1S6S, General Grant was nominated by the national republican convention, assembled at Chicago, having received every vote cast; elected President the November following, hav- ing received two hundred and fourteen electoral votes, against eighty for Horatio Seymour, democrat. Inaugu- rated March 4, 1869, and was re-elected in 1872, over Horace Greeley, receiving two hundred and eighty-six votes against sixty-three scattering (Mr. Greeley having died). Inaugurated March 4, 1873, he vacated the Presi- dency only upon the expiration of his time, March 4, 1S77. To one who has read what General Grant has done, little need be said as to what manner of man he is. The outline of his life shows his ability. Such achievements are not the result of luck or accident. They are seldom seen in history. He has not only shown great ability, but wisdom, practical sagacity and independence in the whirl of extraordinary and important events which have occurred at Washington and in the South since the close of the war. For some months previous to the expiration of Gen- eral Grant's second term of office, he felt the need of ab- solute rest, and that he might be entirely relieved from all cares and annoyances that would necessarily reach him, even in retirement, he planned a tour of the world, to occu- py at least two years, hoping to find the relief sought for. The history of this tour, with its unprecedented and un- looked-for ovations and triumphal tour will be found of in- tense interest to every American. CHAPTER II. OFF FOR EUROPE. On May 17th, 1877, ex-President U. S. Grant, his wife, and son Jesse, sailed from Philadelphia for Europe, via American Line steamer Indiana. His departure was made the occasion of a great parting demonstration, in which all classes of the community seemed to take a hearty and enthusiastic share. The courtesies extended to him in every city through which he had passed since his retire- ment from the Presidency were alike creditable to those who proffered, and to him who received them, and were the outburst of a people who recognized his great military and civil services. Before leaving the steamer that con- veyed the General to the Indiana, a very interesting cere- mony took place on board. In the ladies' cabin a private table was spread for the distinguished guests, among whom were General Grant, at the head of the table; General Sherman, on his right; Mayor Stokley, of Philadelphia, on his left; Honorable Hamilton Fish, Colonel Fred. Grant, Honorable Zach. Chandler, Honorable Simon Cam- eron, Honorable Don Cameron, and other prominent military and civil officers. After luncheon, Mayor Stokley arose and toasted the " honored guest of the day " in a few appropriate and eulogistic remarks. General Grant replied : "Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen: I had not expected to make a speech to-day, and therefore can do nothing more than thank you, as I have had occasion to do so often 2 iS GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S within the past week. I have been only eight days in Philadelphia, and have been received with such unexpect- ed kindness that it finds me with no words to thank you. What with driving in the park, and dinners afterward, and keeping it up until after midnight, and now to find myself still receiving your kind hospitality, I am afraid you have not left me stomach enough to cross the Atlan- tic." This was followed by short and highly complimentary speeches from General Sherman, ex-Secretary Fish, ex- Secretary Chandler, ex-Secretary Robeson, ex-Senator Cameron, General Bailey, Governor Hartranft, and others; and so affected General Grant that he replied: "My Dear Friends: I was not aware that we would have so much speech-making here, or that it would be necessary for me to say any more to you, but I feel that the compliments you have so showered upon me were not altogether deserved — that they should not all be paid to me, either as a soldier or as a civil officer. As a General your praises do not all belong to me — as the executive of the nation they are not due to me. There is no man who can fill both or either of these positions without the help of good men. I selected my lieutenants when I was in both positions, and they were men, I believe, who could have filled my place often better than I did. I never flat- tered myself that I was entitled to the place you gave me. My lieutenants could have acted jDerhaps better than I, had the opportunity presented itself. Sherman could have taken my place, as a soldier or in a civil office, and so could Sheridan, and others I might name. I am sure if the coun- try ever comes to this need again there will be men for the work. There will be men born for every emergency. Again I thank you, and again I bid you good-bye; and once again I say that, if I had failed, Sherman or Sheri- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I9 dan, or some of my other lieutenants, would have succeed- ed." Shortly after this the General was transferred to the Indiana, last good-byes were said, and the steamer pro- ceeded on her way to England, arriving at Queenstown May 27, without mishap, the General and party having passed a delightful voyage, almost entirely free from the disagreeable effects of " seasickness", that renders an " ocean trip " so unpleasant. He was met by a delegation of prominent city officials, and tendered the hospitalities of Queenstown, with the assurance that every village and hamlet of Ireland had resounded with the praises of his name, and would welcome him with all the warmth and candor of the Irish people. He replied that he could not then avail himself of their hospitality, but would return to Ireland within a short time. Reaching Liverpool at half past two p. M., all the ship- ping in the Liverpool docks exhibited a profuse display of bunting, the flags of all nations waving along the seven miles of water front. An immense crowd was gathered on the docks to welcome the ex-President, and he landed amid cheers such as must have reminded him of the davs directly after the war, when he was received by New York and other American cities. The Mayor of Liverpool read him an address of welcome, saluting him as an illustrious statesman and soldier, and when the ex-President modestly and in a few brief words acknowledged the honor done him, and expressed the very great pleasure he had from his reception, new cheers burst forth and a great crowd followed his carriage to the hotel. The judgment of strangers resembles somewhat the judgment of posterity. As he is regarded in European countries, so, doubtless, he will stand in history, when the bitterness and the littleness of partisan strife have passed 20 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS away, and his real services to his country and his real char- acter are better understood. But in spite of partisan bitter- ness and personal opposition, such as a man of his positive character, placed in the most difficult position in the world, and kept there during eight long years, could not fail to arouse, nothing is more certain than that General Grant has to-day a larger share of the gratitude and the affection of the American people than any other of our public men. No matter how widely men may have differed from him, no matter how they may have opposed him, if they are really Americans, and if they are manly and patriotic men, in their hearts they wish well to the man who led our armies to victory; whose firm will saved the Union, and who — no matter what they may think his errors during his Presidency — entered political life against his will, and at the demand of the people gave up the great and per- manent position the nation had given him, to serve it in a new and to him untried and unwelcome field; and who, during sixteen long and weary years, stood at his post of duty unrelieved and without rest. It is a fact not generally remembered, that Grant's great lieutenants in the war — Sherman, Sheridan and Farragut — all enjoyed the " vacation in Europe " which thl^ had so well earned. To General Grant, their honored chief, alone, was rest denied. The country required of him, and him alone, that he should derange all his plans in life, that he should put off the period of rest which he coveted and which he had earned, that he should even surrender the place at the head of the armies, to which he was ap- pointed amid the plaudits of the people, in order contin- uously to serve them. Few men of such arduous and conspicuous services have had so long and difficult a tour of duty imposed upon them. Republics are said to be un- grateful, but our own is not so entirely cold and devoid of gratitude that men do not feel a keen sense of gratification TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 21 when they see their faithful and tired servant taking his ease at last, and receiving in foreign lands the honors and the respect to which his remarkable career so eminently entitle him. To the statesmen and soldiers whom he will meet, even more than to the general mass, he will be an object of great curiosity. Except Field Marshal Von Moltke, no general of our days has commanded and wielded such masses of men ; no general whom he will meet can boast of a more brilliantly conceived or a more daringly exe- cuted campaign than that of Vicksburg; no one of them has had the control of so vast a field of war as he, and surely none has seen hotter fire than Grant withstood in the desperate days of the Wilderness, Spottsylvania and Cold Harbor. In every country in Europe which he may visit, he will find distinguished military chiefs who have studied his campaigns, who know how to appreciate the dogged courage of Shiloh, the brilliant audacity of Vicks- burg, the genius which recovered an imperilled position before Chattanooga, the indomitable perseverance of the Virginia campaigns, and the broad and comprehensive view which enabled him to plan the operations of armies stretched across half a continent. Nor will distinguished civilians be less eager to hear his voice and to scrutinize his features, for they will remem- ber that he acted a foremost part in many of the most notable events of the century; they will see in him the supporter and right hand of Lincoln in the emancipation of the slaves, the restorer of peace, the general who re- turned a million of soldiers to peaceful industries, the ruler of the American republic during eight years of extraordi- nary political turbulence. All the journals of the city next day appeared with highly complimentary editorials, assuring General Grant of a generous hospitality. The Daily News said that 22 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S " General Grant was unquestionably the greatest soldier living." The General and Mrs. Grant had a perfect round of festivities at Liverpool. Hurried visits were made to all points of interest, visiting and examining the docks of the city, enlisting great interest from General Grant in the magnificent dock system, and, contrasted with the system of piers in the United States, he admitted the superiority of these supurb and substantial structures over those of the East and North rivers. The party returned to the city, and were driven to the town hall to lunch with the Mayor and other civic digni- taries. This building is one of the most interesting in the city, and the figure of Britannia, looking abroad from the summit of the great dome, reminds the visitor of the now celebrated Hermann monument in Germany. The ex- President was escorted to the reception saloon, and subse- quently examined the portraits of former mayors and wealthy merchants, who have long since passed away;, the famous Chantry statues of Canning and Roscoe, and the elegant tapestry with which the various saloons are fitted up. Lunch was prepared. Covers were laid for fifty, the table being beautifully decorated with choice flowers and ornaments in confection, suggestive of very elaborate pre- paration. Among those present, were the Mayor, the Mayoress, members of the city council, one member of parliament, the City Solicitor and several prominent mer- chants. Mrs. Grant sat on the left of the Mayor, and our ex-President on his right. The repast was served immedi- ately the guests assembled, and was a most enjoyable affair. At the conclusion of lunch, the Mayor arose and pro- posed the health of the Queen, in accordance with the tradition which places English majesty first on all state and festive occasions. This was drank standing. The host next proposed the health of " General and ex-Presi- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 23 dent Grant, the distinguished soldier and statesman pres- ent," remarking that it would be unnecessary for him to repeat the earnestness of their welcome, their desire to draw closer the bonds of friendship between the two great- est commercial nations in the world, and especially to honor the hero of a hundred battles, whose courage and skill challenged their admiration. Grant responded with unusual gayety of manner, acknowledging the pleasure with which he received their constant manifestations of good will, believing that ulti- mately the bonds of union must be strengthened between the two countries. He excused himself from an extended reply. During the luncheon, the streets leading to the town hall were packed with spectators. General Grant afterward visited the exchange and news- rooms, where he was received with great enthusiasm. Leaving Liverpool for Manchester, May 30, immense crowds gathered along the route, and the stations were beautifully decorated, the American flag being everywhere prominent. Arriving at Manchester at eleven o'clock, he was received by the Mayor and Aldermen and a tremen- dous crowd of citizens, who manifested their enthusiasm by continued cheering. The Mayor's speech was quite lengthy, and referred feelingly to a similar occasion, when, in 1S63, the ship Griswold brought a cargo of provisions to the suffering operatives of the city, who had been thrown out of ^employment, owing to the failure of the cotton crop from the South. This address was followed by a laudatory and congratulatory address by Sir John Heron, recalling the kind expressions which the Queen's birthday had evoked in America. He hoped for a constant increase of the exist- ing good feeling, and trusted that the visit of the ex-Presi- dent would ultimately lead to free commercial intercourse between England and the United States. The General, who had listened to the addresses with 24 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS that quiet composure of manner peculiar to him — as unmoved, though the target of thousands of eyes, as though alone — rising, acknowledged the presentation. " It is scarcely possible forme," he said, "to give utterance to the feelings evoked by my reception upon your soil from the moment of my arrival in Liverpool, where I have passed a couple of days, until the present moment. After the scene which I have witnessed in your streets, the elements of greatness, as manifested in your public and industrial buildings, I may be allowed to say, that no person could be the recipient of the honor and attention you have bestowed upon me, without the profoundest feelings. Such have been incited in me, and I find myself inadequate to their proper expression. It was my original purpose on my arrival in Liverpool to hasten to London, and from thence proceed to visit the various points of interest in the coun- try. Among these I have regarded Manchester as the most important. As I have been aware for years of the great amount of your manufactures, many of which find their ultimate destination in my own country, so I am aware that the sentiments of the ereat mass of the people of Man- chester went out in sympathy to that country, during the mighty struggle, in which it fell to my lot to take some humble part. The expressions of the people of Manchester at the time of the great trial, incited within the breasts of my countrymen a feeling of friendship toward them, distinct from that felt toward all England; and in that spirit I accept, on the part of my country, the compliments paid me as its representative, and thank you." After General Grant had concluded his address of thanks, luncheon was served in the large banquet hall. Toasts to the Queen and the Prince of Wales were pro- posed and drank with all the honors. The Mayor of Man- chester responded to each in loyal speeches. The health of President Hayes was then proposed, and was received with TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2$ enthusiasm. Mr. Newton Crane, United States consul to Manchester, responded amid applause. After these form- alities, the Mayor of Manchester proposed the health of General Grant, amid the plaudits of the assemblage. General Grant replied, with a humorous twinkle in his eye, that Englishmen had got more speeches and of greater length out of him than his own countrymen; but they were poorer, because they were longer than he was accus- tomed to make. He warmly returned thanks for the reception he had received at the hands of the people of Manchester, and concluded his remarks by proposing the health of the Mayoress and the ladies. The Mayor replied in suitable terms. Mr. Jacob Bright, M. P., being called upon for a speech, said : "No guest so distinguished has ever before visited Manchester. General Grant is a brave soldier, and he has pursued a generous, pacific policy toward the ene- mies he had conquered. He should be honored and beloved, and deserves the hearty reception he will receive through- out the realm." After the banquet, the General was intro- duced to the assemblage, and a general hand-shaking fol- lowed. In the evening he visted the Theatre Royal, and spent a short time at the Prince's Theatre. His reception at both places was very enthusiastic. The journey from Manchester to London was marked by hearty greetings and welcomes at the several stations, and imposing demonstrations were made at Leicester and Bedford, as the handsomely decorated cars reached those places. To some of the addresses that were made to him, General Grant replied with an ease and sincerity which, no doubt, made our British cousins wonder how he came by his title of the "silent president." The secret lies, prob- ably, in the fact that the General detests forms and shams and political intrigue, and he had good reasons for his taci- turnity when he found himself surrounded by politicians 26 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S whom his judgment told him it was dangerous to trust. His welcome in England was a genuine outpouring of a nation's respect and admiration, and as such General Grant received it, and responded to it with an unembarrassed and earnest sincerity. CHAPTER III. GENERAL GRANT IN LONDON. General Grant arrived at the terminus of the Midland Railway (St. Pancras Station), London, June i, where he was met by Minister Pierrepont, in behalf of the United States, and Lord Vernon. Huge crowds thronged the entrance to the station, and cheered loudly, but there were no speeches. General Grant and party at once entered Minister Pierrepont's carriage, and were driven rapidly down Tottenham Court Road into Oxford street, thence to the residence of the American Minister. During the afternoon he was introduced to the Prince of Wales, it being his first visit of importance since reaching the city. The following day General Grant, Prince of Wales, Duke of Cambridge, Lord Dudley, Lord Eicho, the Duke of Hamilton, the German Ambassador, Count Munster, and a number of Peers, left London by rail to witness the races at Epsom. Returning to London, General Grant was entertained at a grand banquet at Apsley House, given in his honor by the Duke of Wellington. It was a splendid and hearty reception. The guests were Mrs. and General Grant, Count and Countess Gleichen, Lord and Lady Abercromby, Lord and Lady Churchill, Mar- quises Tweecklale, Sligo and Ailesbury, Earl Roden, Vis- count Torrington, Lords George Paget, Calthorpc, Hough- ton, Strathnairn, the Marchioness of Hertford, Countess of Hardwicke, Countess of Bradford, Lady Wellesley, Lady Emily Peel and Lady Skelmersdale, Miss Wellesley, 28 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S and a number of others well known to the London world of- high social life. The banquet was served up in the famous Waterloo Chamber, where the old Iron Duke loved to meet the war generals of 1815 on *- ne ^th °^ J une every year, and cele- brate the anniversary of the great battle which forever closed the fortunes of Napoleon Bonaparte. Here, over- looking Hyde Park and within view of his own statute at the entrance to the park at Hyde Park corner, the old Duke presided over the annual banquet, reviewing the events of the momentous times when the supremacy of Great Britain was hanging in the balance, with strong probabilities of the scale turning against her. The Water- loo Chamber has been closed a good deal since the death of Arthur Wellesley, for the present Duke and Duchess have spent most of their time when in England at the lovely estate in Winchelsea, which was presented to the eminent soldier by the Crown after the close of the great European wars. The present owner of the estates and titles of Welling- ton is a quiet, unassuming gentleman, who loves the fine arts, is a writer of ability, fishes in his lake at Winchelsea, and, during the season in London, patronizes the clubs. He is Lord of the Manor of Surrey, appoints the justices of the peace and attends to the poor. He is a member of the House of Lords, of course, but he has rarely done more than record his vote on such extraordinary occasions as the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland, and mat- ters affecting the autonomy in his party. The Duchess is considered one of the handsomest ladies in Europe, and has always been a great favorite with Queen Victoria. As a lady in waiting, she attends Her Majesty on all state occa- sions. Hence the tastes and desires of the Duke and Duchess have lead them to neglect Apsley House to some extent. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2Q, This Waterloo Chamber still contains some of the fine old paintings which were hung upon the walls by the first Duke. For instance, there is the celebrated painting, " Sign- ing the treaty of Westphalia," where the commander-in- chief is the central figure of a galaxy of generals, such as has seldom been gathered together since. A magnificent life-size portrait of Napoleon, Landseer's " Van Amburgh and the Lions," Correggio's " Christ on the Mount of Olives," on a panel, and full length portraits of foreign sovereigns and notabilities, by Velasquez, Wilkie and Teniers, are in the saloons adjoining. The Duke was look- ing out of the main window overlooking the park at the time the house was mobbed by the reformers whom he opposed. It was a dramatic incident, that the conqueror of Lee should meet in this revered chamber the descendant of the conqueror of Napoleon the Great. General Grant was given precedence in the honors of the evening, escorting the Duchess of Wellington to supper, and afterward escort- ing her to the reception, at which were present the Duke and Duchess of Cleveland, the Duke and Duchess of Suth- erland, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, and many of those already mentioned above. There were no speeches of note at the supper, which was a quiet though brilliant affair. The grand gaseliers lit up the magnificent hall and the lovely damasks and laces, and revealed the wealth of gold and silver and the flowers and confections of the table. General Grant attended divine service on the 3d in Westminster Abbey. An eloquent sermon was preached by Dean Stanley, from Genesis xxvii. 38. In the course of his sermon he alluded to ex-President Grant, saying, "that in the midst of the congregation there was one of the chiefest citizens of the United States, who had just laid down his sceptre of the American commonwealth, who, 30 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S by his military prowess and generous treatment of his com- rades and adversaries, had restored unity to his country. We welcome him as a sign and pledge that the two great kindred nations are one in heart, and are equally at home under this fraternal roof. Both regard with reverential affection this ancient cradle of their common life." Although the Duke of Wellington was the first to exhibit to a circle of admirers the great lion of the season, yet it was only possible for him to make a restricted use of his triumph in favor of the type of humanity that can be invited to a ducal mansion. The real introduction of the ex-President to the world of Londoners was made on the 5th, by the American Minister, in a reception so brilliant that all occasions of the sort which have hitherto shone in the annals of our legations abroad will become a prey to " dumb forgetfulness." In each one of the engage- ments scored for a month ahead, the ex-President met some one set of English society — men of this or that party or shade of opinion, men of science or of letters, army men or navy men — but at the legation, and presented by the American Minister, he had an opportunity to make the acquaintance of English society, without regard to the lines which divide it into so many coteries, and saw at its best that average quantity of the London world which he could never get at one view save on some such neutral ground as our Minister's parlors. The reception at Min- ister Pierrepont's was immensely successful. The lega- tion in Cavendish Square was interiorly decorated with the grandest profusion of flowers, with the grand old American flag over all. Since the announcement was made that the Minister would receive the ex-President, Mrs. Pierrepont had been overwhelmed with requests for invitations, and out of her good nature acceded, until the number of cards out guaranteed perhaps a greater throng than would ordinarily be comfortable. But, after all, what TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 3I is a reception without a crush? Despite the immense crowd, especially of on-lookers, in Cavendish Square, there was not the slightest confusion. Carriages rolled up, occupants moved out and up into the mansion, with that absence of surrounding noise and shouting that char- acterizes your true reception where the ton is bon and the servants well drilled. On entering, the guests were shown into the cloak rooms, on the ground floor, where wraps were left and a last glance in the mirrors taken. Who, even a philoso- pher, disdains that last reflective glance? On ascending the drawing-room floor, the guests were announced in the small ante-room where stood Mrs. Pierrepont, General Grant, Colonel Badeau, Mrs. Grant, and Mr. Pierrepont, in the order given. General Grant was attired in plain evening di*ess, which was conspicuous in its plainness amid the stars, gai'ters and ribbons worn by many of lesser note; even the Jap- anese Minister was more gorgeous. As for the Chinese Embassy, no tea chest ever equalled their curious splendoi". Mrs. Grant wore a toilet of claret-colored stamped vel- vet, and cream satin, high-necked, and with long sleeves. Mrs. Pierrepont was clad in an elaborate costume of scarlet and black. Among the English notables present, were the Loixl Chancellor, the Dukes of Leeds and Bedford, the Marquises of Salisbury and Hertford, the Earls of Derby, Belmore, Longford, Dunravan, Ducie, Caithness and Shaftesbury, Lord Airey, General Probyn, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, with peers and peeresses innumerable. Every American resident responded to the Minister's invitation. The Morgans and the Peabodys, Mr. James McHenry, Chevalier Wikoff, Mr. G. W. Smalley, Chief Justice Shea, Mr. Moncure D. Conway, Mr. Newton Crane, Consul at Manchester, Mrs. Fairchild, Mrs. Julia Ward 32 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S Howe and her daughter Maud, Mr. and Mrs. Ives, Mrs. Hicks and Miss Nannie Schomberg, were among the most prominent. The immense majority of the dresses of the ladies were in excellent taste, and none were censurable. The American belles carried away the palm for style and beauty, as they usually do on such occasions. At half-past twelve Mrs. Pierrepont and General Grant came down stahs, and, standing in the lower hall, bade farewell to the parting guests, while Mrs. Grant, Mr. Pierrepont and Colonel Badeau took up position in a separ- ate room, the amiable Secretary of Legation, Mr. William J. Hoppin, hovering over one and all. The children of both nations left the legation with a feeling that the tie be- tween them had been strengthened in the generous hospi- tality of the American representative and the cordial response of England's best and greatest. On the 6th, General Grant dined with the Earl Car- narvon, and in the evening attended the royal concert at Buckingham Palace; on the 7th, dined with Lord Hough- ton; on the Sth, with the Marquis of Hertford, where he met about fifty of the members of the house of lords, and in the evening a grand reception tendered by General Badeau, in Beaufort Gardens. Here his reception was brilliant, and only eclipsed by that of Minister Pierrepont. When General Grant arrived, a distinguished company had already assembled in the drawing-room, by whom he was most warmly greeted. Among the first to welcome him was Mr. Gladstone, who appeared to take great interest in American affairs. As General Grant moved about the saloon, he encoun- tered Lord Northbrooke, Lord Fitzwilliam, Lord O'Hagan, Sir Charles Dilke, Sir James Colville, Viscount Reid- haven, Sir Patrick and Lady Grant, who claim some kind of kinship with our illustrious countryman; the Lord TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 33 Bishop of Bristol and Gloucester, Jacob and Mrs. Bright, Mr. Kinglake, Tom Hughes, who has become almost a hero to Americans; Mr. Macmillan, the publisher of the celebrated magazine bearing his name ; Mr. Walter, pro- prietor of the Times; Mr. Bothwick, of the Morning Post, and Baron Reuter. On the 9th, General Grant attended a reception at the Hertford mansion, having lunched with Lord Granville previously. On the nth, he was at his daughter's, Mrs. Sartoris, . remaining until the 15th, when occurred the . grand reception by the corporation of London, at which time he was made an honorary citizen, and presented with the freedom of the city. The presentation of the freedom of the city of London is always an event of importance. It is no common honor. The greatest heroes and the proudest monarchs have been reckoned among the " freemen." George III., who always expressed a supreme contempt for ordinary matters and mortals, had to acknowledge that the city of London could bestow a franchise more valuable than all the knighthoods and baubles of the crown. Since his day hundreds of men, whose works will ever be regarded as the gems of history — statesmen, scientists, lawyers, merchants, princes — have been recorded in the grand old book which is prized by the corporation of London more than all the privileges and immunities granted by the government. George Peabody, the noble and benevolent American merchant, whose name is ever uttered by the poor of the English metropolis with affectionate reverence, was made a freeman. General Gari- baldi, the liberator of Italy and the father of Italian unity, received the same privilege. The Shah of Persia, the Sul- tan of Turkey, the Czar of Russia, Prince Leopold of Belgium, Napoleon III., General Blucher and M. Thiers were also presented with the rights, privileges and immu- 3 34 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS nities of the dwellers within " ye Bishopsgate " and Temple Bar. It has often been asked, What is the freedom of the city of London? It is simply this — a small slip of parch- ment, inscribed with the name and titles of the person to whom it is to be presented, guarantees to the holder and his children after him forever the right to live and trade within the city prescribed by St. Clements in the west, Bishopsgate in the east, Pentonville on the north, and the shores of the Thames on the south, without having to pay a tax on the goods as they are brought through the gates. It exempts them from naval and military service, and tolls and duties throughout the United Kingdom. It insures to his children the care of the Chamberlain, who, incase they are left orphans, takes charge of their property and admin- isters it in their interest until they arrive at years of matu- rity. The parchment bears the seal and signature of the Lord Mayor and Chamberlain, and is generally ornamented with ribbon, and illuminated. It is always enclosed in a long, thin gold box, and is intended, of course, as an heir- loom. When the corporation have decided to confer the parch- ment upon any distinguished individual, he is notified in the old-fashioned style by the City Chamberlain, whose missive begins, " You are hereby commanded to appear in the common hall," etc., naming the date when the city fathers will be present. He is met in the common hall by the Mayor and Councillors. The City Chamberlain informs him that the city has decided to confer upon him the privileges of a free citizen, and makes an address, usually applaudn- tory of the special services or merits of the individual. The recipient signs his name in the Clerk's book, and this offi- cial and the City Chamberlain then sign their names beneath, guarantors or " compurgators," becoming, according to the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 35 rule, responsible for his acts as a citizen. The recipient then steps forward, the oath is administered by the Cham- berlain, who demands that he shall be in all and every respect true and loyal to the interests of the city ; he shakes hands with the Mayor, Chamberlain, Clerk and Councillors, and the gold box is committed to his care. The reception was a complete success. It was a his- torical event in the history of two great nations. The event excited unusual ^interest, even in cynical London. The day was sunny and clear, being what many of the spectators called " Queen's weather." General Grant arrived most unostentatiously in the private carriage of the American Minister, accompanied by his wife, Jesse (his son), Mr. and Mrs. Pierrepont and General Badeau. Ten thousand spectators crowded to the edge of the barricades and greeted him with that hearty cheering peculiar to the English when they desire to wel come a stranger of distinction. Just as much enthusiasm was manifested as on the occa- sion of the visits of the Shah, four years before, and when Garibaldi took the Emperor of the French by surprise and accepted an ovation such as will never be forgotten by those who witnessed it at the Mansion House. As Grant alighted, he was met by a deputation of London Aldermen, arrayed in their gorgeous crimson robes and with the gold chains of office glittering in the sunlight. As he passed on into the corridor, a company of the City Guards and Yeomen presented arms and the crowd again gave a long cheer. It was a brilliant scene. The distinguished party were then escorted into the library. Here the scene became bewildering in its antique splendor. The stately hall, with its stately alcoves lined with books, and its many colored windows which blushed in the golden sunlight, the ladies attired in their variegated spring toilets, the Aldermen in scarlet and the Councilmen $6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S in their mazarine robes, all presented an ensemble at once charming and inspiring. The band played " Hail Colum- bia " as the party entered. General Grant walked in a dignified and self-possessed manner toward the Mayor's chair, and took a seat to the left of the dais, amid the most cordial cheering. The City Chamberlain arose, and read the formal address on behalf of the Mayor, tendering to the General the right hand of fellowship, and referring at length to the fact that he was the first President of the American Republic who had been elevated to the dignity of citizenship of the city of London. Alluding to the kindness extended by America to the Prince of Wales and Prince Arthur, he said the corpor- ation received General Grant, desiring to compliment the General and the country in his person by conferring on him the honorary freedom of their ancient city, a freedom exist- ing eight centuries before his ancestors landed on Ply- mouth Rock — nay, even before the time of the Norman Conqueror. London, in conferring the honor, recognized the distinguished mark he has left on American history, his magnanimity, his triumphs and his consideration for his vanquished adversaries. It also recognized the conciliatory policy of his administration. They, the corporation, fervently hoped he would enjoy his visit to England; that he might live long, and be spared to witness the two great branches of the Anglo- Saxon family go on in their career of increasing amity and mutual respect, in an honest rivalry for the advancement of the peace, the liberty and the morality of mankind. In conclusion, the speaker said : "Nothing now remains, General, but that I should present to you an illuminated copy of the resolution of this honorable court, for the reception of which an appropriate casket is preparing, and, finally, to offer you, in the name of this honorable court, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 37 the right hand of fellowship as a citizen of London." The Chamberlain then shook General Grant's right hand amid loud cheering. Grant arose, and very briefly and appropriately thanked the court for the distinguished honor, and then signed his name to the roll of honor, with the Clerk and Chamberlain as compurgators. The gold casket, containing the freedom of the city, is in the cinque cento style, oblong, the corners mounted by American eagles, and beautifully decorated. On the reverse side is a view of the entrance to the Guildhall, and an appropriate inscription. At the ends are two figures, also in gold, finely modeled and chased, representing the city of London and the United States, and bearing their respective shields, the latter executed in rich enamel. At the corners are double columns laurel wreathed with corn and cotton, and on the cover a cornucopia, emblematic of the fertility and prosperity of the United States. The rose, shamrock and thistle are also introduced. The cover is surmounted by the arms of the city of London. The casket is supported by American eagles, modeled and chased in gold, the whole standing on a velvet plinth deco- rated with stars and stripes. The company then proceeded to the banqueting hall, where seats had been provided for one thousand guests. The Lord Mayor presided. At his right sat General and Mrs. Grant, Minister and Mrs. Pierrepont, General Badeau and Jesse Grant. Among the distinguished guests present, were Sir Staf- ford Northcote, Lord and Lady Tenderden, Mr. Stans- field, Mr. A. E. Foster, several peers prominent in the house of lords, a number of the members of the house of commons, consuls, merchants, and other citizens of Lon- don. The room was decorated with miniature English and .'WVLGOTJ 38 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S American flags, and the tables presented an interesting and artistic appearance. After the dejeuner, the toastmaster, dressed in a gor- geous silk sash formed of stars and stripes, arose, and the bugle sounded. The first toast was "The Queen," the sec- ond was " The Health of General Grant," which was received by the guests standing, and amid great cheering. The Lord Mayor then said : "I, as chief magistrate of the city of London, and on the part of the corporation, offer you as hearty a welcome as the sincerity of language can convey. Your presence here, as the late President of the United States, is especially gratifying to all classes of the community, and we feel that, although this is your first visit to England, it is not a stranger we greet, but a tried and honored friend. Twice occupying, as you did, the exalted position of President of the United States, and, therefore, one of the foremost representatives of that coun- try, we confer honor upon ourselves by honoring you. Let me express both the hope and the belief that, when you take your departure, you will feel that many true friends of yours personally, and also of your countrymen, have been left behind. I have the distinguished honor to pro- pose to your health. May you long live to enjoy the best of health and unqualified happiness." General Grant's reply was made with deep emotion, and was simply to return his thanks for the unexpected honor paid him, and his desire to say much more for their brilliant reception than he could express. " The United States " was coupled with the name of Mr. Pierrepont, who responded in a happy speech, com- plimenting Grant and England. The final toast was " The city of London," and responded to by the Lord Mayor. The company then dispersed with " three cheers for Gen- eral Gi - ant and the United States." After leaving the Guildhall, the company proceeded TOUR AKOUXD THE WORLD. 39 to the Mansion House, at the corner of what was once the famous Bucklesbury and Poultry. Here they took coffee with the Mayor. Then the Mayor's state carriage was ordered, and they drove over to Sydenham to the crystal palace, arriving at the main entrance at half past four o'clock p. m. They were received with the most boisterous enthusiasm. There were at least thirty thousand persons present. A tour ot the vast building was rapidly made, the jDarty dining in the west wing. General Grant avoided all demonstrations made by the crowd. When darkness set in, Grant was escorted to the place of honor in the Queen's corridor of the palace, where he remained for some time smoking and chatting with his friends and their ladies. A grand display of fireworks took place during the evening. The principal pyrotechnic display pieces were the portrait of Grant and the capitol at Washington, which were received with prolonged cheers. At about eleven o'clock the demonstration finished, and the party returned to town in their carnages. Gen- eral Grant, on parting with the Mayor, expressed his ex- treme gratification and pleasure. On the 1 6th, General and Mrs. Grant dined with the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, at Kensington castle; on the 18th, at breakfast with Mr. George W. Smalley, correspondent New York Tribune. Everything was recherche, and the company of the choicest. Among the guests were Professor Huxley, the scientist; Matthew Arnold, Sir Charles Dilke, Sir Frederick Pollock, Robert Browning, A. W. Kinglake, Anthony Trollope, Tom Hughes, Meredith Townsend, Fi-ank Hill, Right Honorable James Stanfield, and many others. In the evening General Grant was the guest of the Reform club, Earl Granville presiding. The party num- bered forty, and represented the liberal ideas which the club 40 GENERAL 17. S. GRANT'S sets itself the task of embodying. The dinner itself was among the finest ever given in London, the cuisine of this association of liberal gentlemen being celebrated all over the world, and free from all danger of its chef ever being called on to fight for his reputation in the courts, as the Napoleon of the soup tureen who composes banquets for a rival club was obliged to do of late. The table was a picture in itself, not to speak of the good things between the top and bottom of the ?nenu. Earl Granville, as soon as the cloth was removed, pro- posed the health of Her Majesty the Queen. To this the Right Honorable William E. Forster responded in a singularly eloquent speech. In the course of his remarks he referred to the great services of General Grant- in the cause of human freedom. He dwelt with particular em- phasis upon the importance to civilization of the cultivation of amicable relations between the two great countries, Eng- land and the United States. With great felicity he pictured the results of such a state of friendliness, and elicited con- tinued cheering. Passing on to a more practical branch of his subject, he amplified upon the opportunities for ad- vancement to the human race, which a hearty concord between the two nations would give. He saw in it the ac- celeration of discoveries in every branch of science, the material progress of the masses and the setting up of loftier standards of private taste and public virtue. Earl Granville proposed the health of " the Illustrious Statesman and Warrior, General Ulysses S. Grant," al- luding in the course of his pithy speech to the beneficent results accruing to both nations from the settlement of the Alabama Claims. " England and America," he said, "nay, civilization throughout the universe, recognize in General Grant one of those extraordinary instruments of Divine Providence bestowed in its beneficence to the human race.'' Upon rising to reply, General Grant was greeted with TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 41 a perfect storm of applause. "I am overwhelmed," he said, "with the kindness shown by Englishmen to me and expressed to America. I regret that I am unable ade- quately to express, even with the temptation to do so of the omnipresent enterprise of the New York Herald [cheers] — to express my thanks for the manifold fraternal courtesies I have received. Words would fail, especially within the limitations of a public speech, to express my feelings in this regard. I hope, when an opportunity is offered me of calmer a*nd more deliberate moments, to put on record my grateful recognition of the fraternal senti- ments of the English people, and the desire of America to render an adequate response." " The speech of Earl Gran- ville," he continued, " has inspired thoughts in my bosom which it is impossible for me adequately to present. Never have I lamented so much as now my poverty in phrases to give due expression to my affection for the mother country." General Grant spoke under the pressure of unusual feeling, and continued with unusual eloquence ' to express the hope that his words, so far as they had any value, would be heard in both countries and lead to the union of the English speaking people and the fraternity of the human race. During the delivery of his speech the applause and cheering was almost continuous while he was on his feet. The dinner was the greatest demonstration yet made in the ex-F resident's honor. The interest taken by the American public in the move- ments of General Grant not only concerns itself with the honors showered upon the great soldier, but also partakes of curiosity to observe what effect all this will have upon the man. He has always been individually an object of speculation. During the war, people studied his cigar stumps, and we all remember what Lincoln, judging by results, thought of his brand of whisky. His silence was symbolical, and 42 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS eager partisans, and often the nation, grasped at his centen- tious utterances — if not as the rallying cries of new ideas, at least as old ones put into fighting form. From operating on millions of men he has become a being to be operated on. Princes, dukes, earls, marquises, viscounts, have him within short range, and fire dinners and receptions at him. Princesses, duchesses, marchionesses, open all their batter- ies and smiles and soft speech upon him. The heavy shot of statesmen, scientists and philanthropists bang into his brain. British brass bands blaze away at him, British crowds let fly volleys of cheers at him, and away ahead are seen the ammunition trains of the nobility, gentry and com- mon people, coming up with more dinners, receptions, civic honors, brass bands and cheers. Almost enough to make us pity him. How will he come out of the ordeal? CHAPTER IV. GRANT IN ENGLAND. The following letter, written by Gen. Grant to George W. Childs, of Philadelphia, will be of general interest: "London, Eng., June 16, 1877. "My Dear Mr. Childs : — After an unusually stormy passage for any season of the year, and continuous sea- sickness generally among the passengers after the second day out, we reached Liverpool Monday afternoon, the 28th of May. Jesse and I proved to be among the few good sailors. Neither of us felt a moment's uneasiness during the voyage. "I had proposed to leave Liverpool immediately on arri- val, and proceed to London, where I knew our Minister had made arrangements for a formal reception, and had accepted for me a few invitations of courtesy ; but what was my sur- prise to find nearly all the shipping in port at Liverpool decorated with flags of all nations, and from the mainmast of each the flag of the Union was most conspicuous. "The docks were lined with as many of the population as could find standing room, and the streets, to the hotel where it was understood my party would stop, were packed. The demonstration was, to all appearances, as hearty and as enthusiastic as at Philadelphia on our departure. "The Mayor was present with his state carriage, to con- vey us to the hotel, and after that to his beautiful country residence, some six miles out, where we were entertained at dinner with a small party of gentlemen, and remained 44 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS over night. The following day a large party was given at the official residence of the Mayor, in the city, at which there were some one hundred and fifty of the distinguished citizens and officers of the corporation present. Pressing invitations were sent from most of the cities of the kingdom to have me visit them. I accepted for a day at Manchester, and stopped a few moments at Leicester, and at one other place. The same hearty welcome was shown at each place, as you have no doubt seen. "The press of the country has been exceedingly kind and courteous. So far I have not been permitted to travel in a regular train, much less in a common car. The Mid- land road, which penetrates a great portion of the island, including Wales and Scotland, have extended to me the courtesy of their road, and a Pullman car to take me wherever I wish to go during the whole of my stay in England. We arrived in London on Monday evening, the 30th of May, when I found our Minister had accepted engagements for me up to the 27th of June, having but a few spare days in the interval. "On Saturday last we dined with the Duke of Welling- ton, and last night the formal reception at Judge Pierre- pont's was held. It was a great success, most brilliant in the numbers, rank and attire of the audience, and was graced by the presence of every American in the city who had called on the minister or left a card for me. I doubt whether London has ever seen a private house so elabo- rately or tastefully decorated as was our American minis- ter's last night. I am deeply indebted to him for the pains he has taken to make my stay pleasant, and the attentions extended to our country. I appreciate the fact, and am proud of it, that the attentions I am receiving are intended more for our country than for me personally. I love to see our country honored and respected abroad, and I am proud to believe that it is by most all nations, and by some even TOUlt A HOUND THE WOULD. 45 loved. It has always been my desire to see all jealousy between England and the United States abated, and every sore healed. Together they are more powerful for the spread of commerce and civilization than all others com- bined, and can do more to remove causes of wars by cre- ating moral interests that would be so much endangered by war. "I have written very hastily, and a good deal at length, but I trust this will not bore you. Had I written for publi- cation, I should have taken more pains. «U. S. Grant." On the 19th, General and Mrs. Grant, Minister and Mrs. Pierrepont, and Consul-General Badcau, dined at Marlborough House with the Prince of Wales. The din- ner was a full dress affair. Earls Beaconsfield, Derby and Granville, and the leading members of the government, were present. The ex-President occupied the seat of honor at the table. The dinner proved one of the most enjoyable since the General's arrival. On the 20th, a deputation waited on ex-President Grant at General Badeau's house, to present an address and ex- press gratitude for his aid in procuring from the government of the United States recognition of the claims of Mrs. Carroll, whose husband was killed in a naval engagement during the American war. The deputation was presented by Mr. Mullaly. Dr. Brady, M. P., said he had been greatly gratified, as had all Irishmen to whom he had spoken, at the reception of General Grant in this country. The General said it was very gratifying to him to know that a case, no doubt worthy and deserving, had been righted, and that this act of justice had been performed un- der his government. As to himself, he was simply the executive, and could claim no credit in the matter further than for having approved what was done. 'The government 46 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S of the United States was much like that of England, and was divided into three branches, each distinct and independ- ent. Of course, his own branch had its share in urging the claims of this case, but without legislative action nothing could have been done. On the 2 1st, ex-President Grant dined at the residence of Minister Pierrepont. The Prince of Wales was pres- ent, attended by Major General Sir Dighton Probyn, con- troller of his household. General Grant sat on the right of the prince, and Mrs. Pierrepont on the left. Mrs. Grant sat opposite the Prince, having the Duke of Richmond on her right and Mr. Pierrepont on her left. Mesdames Grant and Pierrepont were the only ladies present. The other guests were the Turkish, Austrian, German, French, Italian and Russian ambassadors; the Dukes of Argyle, Welling- ton and Westminster; the Marquises of Salisbury, Hertford and Lansdowne; the Earls of Beaconsfield, Derby and Carnarvon; Earls Granville and Manvers; Lords Cairne, Manners and Houghton, also Sir Stafford Northcote; Mr. Cross, Home Secretary; Mr. Gawthorne Hardy, Mr. Hop- pan, Mr. Beckwith and Jesse Grant. On the 22d, a special performance at the London Royal Italian Opera was given in honor of General Grant. The house was filled. General and Mrs. Grant and General Badeau arrived at half-past eight. The curtain immediately rose, disclosing Mile. Albani and the full chorus of the company, behind whom was a group of American flags. Mile. Albani sang the " Star Spangled Banner," with the full chorus and orchestra. General Grant, for the first time since his arrival in England, was dressed in the full uniform of a major general. The entire audience rose on the Gener- al's entrance, and remained standing during the singing, as did also the General and wife. After the song was fin- ished, he was loudly applauded and bowed in response. TOUR AROUND THE "WORLD. 47 General Grant was obliged to leave early to go to the Queen's ball at Buckingham Palace. The General's box was decorated with flowers. On the 24th, General Grant was present at a banquet given by the corporation of Trinity House. The Prince of Wales presided. Prince Leopold, Prince Christian, the Prince of Leinington, the Prince of Saxe- Weimar, the Duke of Wellington, the Marquis of Hertford, the Earl of Derby, the Earl of Carnarvon, Sir Stafford Northcote, Mr. Cross, and Chief Justice Sir Alexander Cockburn, were among the distinguished company present. The Prince of Wales, referring to General Grant, in the course of his speech, said : " On the present occasion it is a matter of peculiar gratification to us as Englishmen to receive as our guest General Grant. I can assure him for myself, and for all loyal subjects of the Queen, that it has given us the greatest pleasure to see him as a guest in this country." Earl Carnarvon proposed the health of the visitors, and coupled with it General Grant's name. He said " Strangers of all classes, men of letters, arts, science, state, and all that has been most worthy and great, have, as it were, come to this center of old civilization. I venture, without disparagement to any of those illustrious guests, to say that never has there been one to whom we willingly accord a freer, fuller, heartier welcome than we do to General Grant on this occasion — not merely because we believe he has performed the part of a distinguished general, nor because he has twice filled the highest office which the citizens of his great country can fill, but because we look upon him as representing that good will and affec- tion which ought to subsist between us and the United States. It has been my duty to be connected with the great Dominion of Canada, stretching several thousand miles along the frontier of the United States, and during 48 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S the last three or four years I can truthfully say that noth- ing impressed me more than the interchange of friendly and good offices which took place between the two coun- tries under the auspices of President Grant." General Grant replied that he felt more impressed than he had possibly ever felt before on any occasion. He came here under the impression that this was Trinity House, and that trinity consisted of the army, navy, and peace. He thought it was a place of quietude, where there would be no talk or toasts. He had been, therefore, naturally sur- prised at hearing both. He had heard some remarks from His Royal Highness which compelled him to say a word in response. He begged to thank His Highness for these remarks. There had been other things said during the evening highly gratifying to him. Not the least gratify- ing was to hear that there were occasionally in this country party fights as well as in America. He had seen before now a war between three departments of the state, the executive, the judicial, and the legislative. He had not seen the political parties of England go so far as that. He would imitate their chaplain, who had set a good example of oratory — that was shortness — and say no more than simply thank His Royal Highness and the company on behalf of the visitors. This reception at Windsor Castle, on the 26th, may be regarded as the culmination of the remarkable social atten- tions which were bestowed on General Grant in such pro- fuse abundance during his visit to England. No such honor"., nor anything approaching them, have ever before been paid to an American citizen. While their distinguished recipient modestly regards them as a compliment to his country rather than to himself, it is pretty safe to say that there is no other American citizen through whom such honors to our Republic would have been possible. The English people feel, as all mankind in all ages have felt r m^. & 'wJ^*' *p*£m ^S; Sr-'';m>W --%&■ w •4 TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 49 the magic of great military names. It is General Grant's resplendent and successful career as a soldier, rather than the fact that he has been twice elected the chief magistrate of a great country, that has broken down so many social barri- ers in his favor. His quiet and undemonstrative personal manners have contributed to his favorable reception. He is such a contrast to the offensive bumptiousness too often exhibited by Americans, that Englishmen are ready to concede a great deal more than he would ever think of claiming for himself. While his splendid reception is no doubt a compliment to the American people, it is also a great personal compliment to the only man who could have evoked such a series of demonstrations. General Grant and wife left London by the five p. M. train from Paddington, and arrived at Windsor at thirty- five minutes past five. The Mayor, several members of the corporation, and a number of spectators, were assembled on the platform to witness the arrival. The General and Mrs. Grant, who were accompanied by Minister Pierre- pont, were conveyed in one of Her Majesty's carriages to the castle, where they were received by the Queen at the bottom of the staircase at the Queen's entrance, and con- ducted through the state corridor to the white drawing room. After a short interview, General Grant and wife were conducted to apartments over the Waterloo Gallery, overlooking the Home Park. In the evening a grand dinner party was given in General Grant's honor. Dinner was served in Oak Room, according to custom, which reserves St. George's Hall for state banquets. The party was small, because etiquette requires that the Queen shall converse with every guest. The introductions were made as follows: Minister Pierrepont, advancing, introduced General Grant; then Lord Derby stepped forward with Mrs. Grant. The Queen shook hands with them, while the ladies in waiting simply 4 50 GENERAL. U. S. GRANT'S bowed. This formality at an end, the gentlemen led the way to the Oak Room. The Queen sat at the head of the table. On her right were respectively Prince Leopold, Princess Christian and General Grant; on her left Prince Christian, Princess Beatrice and Minister Pierrepont. Then came the Duchess of Wellington, Lord Elphinstone and Mrs. Pierrepont; Lord Derby and Mrs. Grant; the Duch- ess of Roxburgh and Lord Biddulph; the Countess of Derby and Jesse Grant. During the dinner, the band of the Grenadier Guards, under Dan Godfrey, played in the quadrangle. The en- joyment of the party was unconstrained, the Queen taking a prominent part in the lively conversation, during which all kinds of topics were discussed, American and English, political and social. The Princess Beatrice is a brilliant conversationalist, and she was particularly interesting on many American social topics, which she thoroughly under- stood. Most of the ladies were all dressed in black with white trimmings, owing to the deaths recently of the Queen of Holland and the Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt. The Queen was attired in a similar style, but her toilet comprised a very magnificent array of diamonds. After dinner, the Queen's party proceeded to the corridor, for the purpose of enabling the visitors to examine it more closely. Here they met another party from the Octagon, and a lively conversation ensued, during which Her Majesty talked with every person present. At about ten o'clock Her Majesty shook hands with her lady guests, bowed to the gentlemen, and retired, followed by other members of the royal family present. The guests then entered one of the magnificent draw- ing-rooms along the east front, where they were enter- tained by the Queen's private band. Refreshments having been served, General Grant and TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 5 1 Minister Pierrepont played whist with the Duchesses of Wellington and Roxburgh, during which, of course, the gentlemen were beaten. Mr. Pierrepont played badly; so did the ex-President. At half-past eleven o'clock, the Americans retired to the rooms, which were in a different part of the palace. The following morning, General and Mrs. Grant were driven in the great park, in a carriage usually used by the Queen, at half-past ten. He, with Americans, accompanied by Mr. Ward Hunt, first Lord of the Admiralty, and Colonel Gardiner, went to the station and took the train for Bish- op's road (Paddington). A state concert was given at Buckingham Palace at night. General Grant and Mrs. Grant, the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Duke and Duchess of Teck, Prince Christian and the Princess Helena, the Princess Louise and the Marquis of Lome and the Duke of Cambridge were present. On the 28th, Liverpool again honors General Grant with a grand banquet. Upwards of two hundred gentle- men, including representatives of all public bodies in the town, attended the banquet, which was held in the large ballroom of the town hall, and was a very grand affair. General Grant, who was in the uniform of a major general, was received with the greatest enthusiasm. He sat on the right of the Mayor. Next to General Grant sat Lieu- tenant General Sir Henry de Bathe, commander of the forces in the northern district. The Mayor, proposing General Grant's health, spoke of the sterling qualities he possessed as a soldier, which had enabled him to restore peace and prosperity to his country. General Grant, responding, said the reception he encoun- tered in Great Britain was far beyond his expectation, and was such as any living person might well be proud of. He believed, however, that it was indicative of the friendly 52 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS relations which existed between two peoples, who were of one kindred blood and civilization. He hoped that friend- ship would continue to be cultivated and long endure. Referring to some remarks relative to the British army, he said there were as many soldiers now at Aldershott as in the regular army of the United States, which had a frontier of thousands of miles; but if necessary the United States could raise volunteers, and he and Mr. Fairchild were examples of what those volunteers were. On the 30th, General Grant attended a dinner given by a personal friend belonging to the American press, at Grosvenor Hotel. The company numbered forty, consist- ing chiefly of distinguished journalists of the London press, and authors. There were no speeches, the dinner being strictly a social and private one. On the 3d of July, a deputation of forty men, each representing a different trade, and representing altogether about one million English workingmen, waited upon Gen- eral Grant at Consul General Badeau's house, and presented him an address, welcoming him to England, and assuring him of their good wishes and deep regard for the welfare and progress of America, where British workmen had al- ways found a welcome. Impromptu speeches were then made by various members of the deputation, all of which were extremely cordial. General Grant replied as follows: " In the name of my country, I thank you for the address you have pre- sented to me. I feel it a great compliment paid my gov- ernment and one to me personally. Since my arrival on British soil I have received great attentions, which were intended, I feel sure, in the same way, for my country. I have had ovations, free hand-shakings, presentations from different classes, from the government, from the controlling authorities of cities, and have been received in the cities by the populace, but there has been no reception which I am TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 53 prouder of than this to-day. I recognize the fact that what- ever there is of greatness in the United States, as indeed in any other country, is due to labor. The laborer is the author of all greatness and wealth. Without labor there would be no government, or no leading class, or nothing to pre- serve. With us, labor is regarded as highly respectable. When it is not so regarded, it is because man dishonors labor. We recognize that labor dishonors no man ; and, no matter what a man's occupation is, he is eligible to fill any post in the gift of the people; his occupation is not consid- ered in selecting, whether as a law maker or as an executor of the law. Now, gentlemen, in conclusion, all I can do is to renew my thanks for the address, and repeat what I have said before, that I have received nothing from any class since my arrival which has given me more pleasure." After the speech there was an informal exchange of courtesies, and the deputation then withdrew. In the evening, a banquet was given by the United Service Club. The Duke of Cambridge presided, having on his right General Grant and Lord Hampton, and on his left Minister Pierrepont and Lord Strathnairn. Admiral Sir Charles Eden was the vice-president, having on his right Sir George Sartorios, and General Sir William Codington on his left. There was a very full attendance of guests. The Duke of Cambridge proposed the health of Gen- eral Grant. The General, in reply, alluded to the visit of the Prince of Wales to the United States. He said he knew from all his friends, as well as of his own personal knowledge, that His Royal Highness was received, as the son of England's Queen, with the sincerest respect. He thanked the company for their hospitality, which was one of the greatest honors he had received. On the 4th, a reception was given at the American Legation, which was a social event of a very high order, and 54 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S very enjoyable throughout. It lasted from four until seven o'clock. Nearly all the Americans in London, estimated at over one thousand, called during that time. A large silk American flag hung over the entrance, and the interior was beautifully decorated with flowers. Mr. and Mrs. Pierrepont, General and Mrs. Grant, received all the guests. The reception closed with the singing of the " Star Span- gled Banner " by Miss Abel, an American. On the 5th, General and Mrs. Grant, their son, and General Badeau, left London for the continent. They were accompanied to the station by a number of friends, and the parting was most enthusiastic. With the exception of brief stops at Tunbridge and Ashford, there was nothing worthy of note. A large crowd had collected at the Folkestone station when the train arrived, and as General Grant alighted he was loudly cheered. The Mayor's carriage was in waiting, and the party were driven to the town hall. Here the Mayor received them in his robes of office, surrounded by the members of the town council and a large number of citizens. As the clerk to the corporation read the address^ the whole assemblage remained standing. The address recited the idea of honoring the General for his deeds in the battle-field, and concluded by expressing the wish that he might have a third term as President of the United States, and advancing the opinion that he would. In his reply the ex-President ignored this. He thanked them, as he said he did all their countrymen, for their kindness and courtesy. He believed it would be to the mutual interests of the two great English-speaking nations to maintain the friendly relations which now existed. England and America must lead in commerce and civilization. He also expressed his gratification at the settlement of the Alabama claims, which had been referred to. But he carefully avoided any allusion to politics. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 55 The reception over, the party started at once for the pier, where the steamer Vittoria was waiting to convey them to Ostend, Belgium. The American flag was seen flying among the shipping in the harbor, in honor of the town's guest. A great crowd had gathered again at the pier, and cheered loudly as the Vittoria left and passed out into the straits, the General bowing repeatedly from the bridge of the steamer. General Grant's stay in England had been made pleasant by honors which were extremely gratifying to Americans. His excellent taste in ignoring the toady- ism of the Englishman at Folkestone, shows how quickly the General could resent such a piece of impertinence, and that he thought, correctly, that foreigners have no business with our politics. CHAPTER V. ON THE CONTINENT. General Grant arrived at Brussels, Belgium, at six o'clock on the evening of July 6, and proceeded to the Bellevue Hotel. No official reception was given him, as it was understood that he was traveling incognito. Within an hour of his arrival, an aide-de-camp of King Leopold visited the Gen- eral, conveying from his royal master an invitation to din- ner, and placing at his disposal his aides and the carriage of state. In the evening General Grant dined with ex-Minis- ter Sanford. Several Belgian functionaries were in attend- ance at the board. On the 8th, General Grant dined with the King and royal family ; all the high officials of state and foreign min- isters were present. King Leopold took Mrs. Grant to dinner, and the ex-President had the honor of escorting the Queen. On Sunday the King paid the General a visit, a step which is considered by the Belgians as being a great honor, as it is entirely out of the usual course. The Gen- eral and Mrs. Grant visited the King and Queen in the after- noon. On Monday morning all the foreign ministers in Brussels called on the General, previous to his departure. The King's aide-de-camp and members of the American legation accompanied the party to the railway station. During General Grant's stay he was treated with the great- est distinction. On the 9th, General Grant arrived at Cologne, and was received at the railway station by the American Consul, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 57 President of Police, and the civil and military governors of the city, the Emperor having commanded that every atten- tion should be paid to their honored guest. At Cologne the General visited several churches and the cathedral, and made an excursion over the suspension bridge to Deutz, returning by the bridge of boats. In the evening he was serenaded at the Hotel du Nord, by a military band. On the ioth, he left Cologne, and proceeded up the river Rhine, stopping at Bingen, Coblentz and Weisbaden, reaching Frankfort on the 12th, where a grand reception was given him at the Palmer-garten; the burgomaster presided, and one hundred and twenty guests were present. This included all the prominent officials of the town, offi- cers of the garrison, and leading citizens. The banquet hall was beautifully illuminated and decorated. After the toasts to the Emperor and President Hayes had been drunk and duly responded to, Henry Seligman, the banker, pro- posed the health of General Grant. Mr. Seligman, in giving the toast, made a few appropriate remarks, in the course of which he said that the General was universally honored and esteemed. General Grant, in reply, thanked the city of Frankfort for the confidence it placed in the Union during the late civil war. He concluded by drinking to the wel- fare and prosperity of the city. At the conclusion of this short speech, the General was given a magnificent ovation. The guests rose to their feet and cheered lustily, and the crowd outside, numbering six thousand people, caught up the cheer, and were enthusiastic in their demonstrations of welcome. After the conclusion of the banquet, a grand ball was given, at which the elite of the city was present. Jesse Grant opened the ball with an American lady. On the following day, General Grant visited Hamburg, and held a reception, the chief burgomaster presenting the guests. A grand concert was given in the grounds of the 58 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S zoological garden afterward, which was attended by many thousands of people. On the 16th, General Grant spent several days in the immediate vicinity of Lucerne and Interlaken, Switzerland, whence he made excursions to the mountains in the vicin- ity. On the 24th, we find him at Berne, Switzerland, where he was received by the President of the Swiss Con- federation. On the 27th, he was at Geneva, where he laid the corner stone of a new American Protestant church in that city. Large crowds were present, and hundreds of American flags were displayed from the windows of citi- zens' houses. The authorities of the city, and also the English and American clergymen of Geneva, were present. Speeches complimentary to General Grant were made by M. Carteret, President of Geneva, and by several of the principal clergymen. General Grant said, in replying to the toast given to America, that the greatest honor he had received since landing in Europe was to be among Amer- icans, and in a republic, and in a city where so great a serv- ice had been rendered to the Americans by a Swiss citizen in the settlement of a question which might have produced war, but which left no rancor on either side. On the 30th, the General left Geneva for the North Italian lakes, thence to Ragatz, where he spent several days for rest and recuper- ation with his brother-in-law, M. J. Cramer, American Minister to Denmark. On the 5th of August, General Grant went to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore; thence to Lake Como, stopping at Bellagio; thence to Varese. At each of these points he was received with great enthusiasm, his stay being one grand round of festivities, each city seeming to vie with the other in the hospitalities offered. At Lake Maggiore, ad- dresses were made by the Mayor and an officer who served under General Garibaldi. General Grant, in his reply, re- ferred to the exceeding hospitality he had received, praised TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 59 the general conduct of the people so far as he had seen them, expressed his delight at the grand and lovely scenes that had met his eye at every turn since he had crossed the Alps, and concluded by saying, " There is one Italian whose hand I wish especially to shake, and that man is General Garibaldi." This allusion was greeted with a perfect storm of applause. On the 18th, the General visited Copenhagen, where he was received with distinguished honors, and at Antwerp a like cordial reception was given. On the 25th, he returned to England, having made a hurried and fatiguing continental tour, where he rested, previous to accepting the urgent and flattering invitation to visit Scotland. The fact that General Grant is named Ulysses, and that, in making " the grand tour," has suggested a classic comparison to the good-natured jokers of the obvious. It seems, too, as though the General had determined to keep up the character of the wandering king of Ithaca; for the heavy English journals, after slowly lifting their eyebrows to the point of astonishment that Ulysses the Silent could speak at all, have found the word " wise " to apply to what he did utter. Indeed, one of them believed that the term silent was ironical, and as proof quoted from " his remark- able speech " that sentence about fighting it out on a certain line if it took all summer. Perhaps if we use a society phrase, and say that General Grant has been " happy " in his recent after-dinner utterances, we shall come nearer the mark. When there are certain unpleasant topics that might be touched on, it is " happy " to avoid them at such times ; and when the speaker who ignores them plunges into plati- tudes about " common blood and kindred peoples," he may be called felicitous when he is only politely adroit. In England, for instance, the General kept clear of blockade runners and Confederate scrip, and, when the Alabama was 60 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S forced before him, only touched on that piratical craft as a sort of blessing in disguise to both peoples. On the other hand, he was overwhelmingly unctuous in calling the En- glish our blood relations, making the glasses dance on the festive board with the thunderous applause he evoked from noble lords and lofty commoners. In Frankfort, however, he had a chance to say a "happy" thing, and he said it. In Frankfort they bought our bonds, when it was vital to the nation that our securi- ties should find purchasers. To be sure, they made a good thing of it, for they bought them cheap; but England and poor generals had cheapened them. Hence it was a " hap- py" thing for the soldier who brought our "boys" and our bonds "out of the wilderness" — the former to Richmond, and the latter to par and beyond — to tell the Frankfurters how well they had stood by the Union in its darkest days. There was much good German blood spilled in the cause of the Union, so that his hearers were aware that the Gen- eral referred to heart-strings as well as purse-strings in his compliment to them. So, also, at Geneva, his compliment to the representative whose "casting vote" turned the scales in the Geneva award was not forgotten ; in fact, the General seemed to be in a " happy " vein, complimenting without stint. This change, or rather drawing out of Gen- eral Grant's thoughts, will surprise none more than his inti- mate friends, who have known him only by works, not words. CHAPTER VI. RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN. The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented to General Grant on the 31st of August. He left London in a Pullman car. On the way from London — four hundred miles — the scenery was exceedingly attractive. All through England and in the south of Scotland, the country is a perfect garden, and only when you get among the chilly hills, valleys and crags of northern Scotland, do you feel that you are getting into the open country. What a pity that there are no forests to cover these beautiful and historic mountains, where in centuries gone by the horns of the leaders summoned the clans to bloody work! The reception given to General Grant as each station was reached, was whole-souled and fully meant hospitality. At Carlisle — the dinner stopping-place — at Galashiels, Mel- rose, Harwick, and a number of smaller towns in Scotland, there were expressions of joy and enthusiasm that reminded one of the railroad receptions that General Grant gets at the towns of Illinois and Ohio. It seemed as though they knew him perfectly well — his face, his history, etc. — for they recognized him everywhere, and demanded as much hand- shaking as could be done in the limited time the train was to stay. Then the cheers and hurrahs always sounded in the distance above the whistle of the locomotive. Mrs. Grant was quite cheerful and talkative. She looked very much better than when she left Washington, though she said she was always in good health there. Washington 62 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S has a slightly malarial atmosphere, and the complexion of a Washingtonian changes for the better after a trip to Europe. She enjoyed her European trip. She said her lines of association there had always fallen in pleasant places, and that she had been greatly pleased with every acquaintance she made in Europe. Mrs. Grant is a quiet, rather reserved lady, but one who impresses her associates by her kind nature, her broad views upon the subject under discussion, be it commonplace or important, and her sensible ideas of life. She sprang from one of the best families of the Mississippi Valley, well known and highly respected since a hundred years and more ago, and her early training was not lost. All the ladies who met her and became her acquaintances at the White House, loved her, from first to last. The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented to ex-President Grant by Lord Provost Sir James Falshaw, in Free Assembly Hall, two thousand persons being pres- ent. In reply to the Lord Provost's speech, General Grant said: " I am so filled with emotion that I scarcely know how to thank you for the honor conferred upon me by making me a burgess of this ancient city of Edinburgh. I feel that it is a great compliment to me and to my country. Had I the proper eloquence,. I might dwell somewhat on the history of the great men you have produced, on the numerous citizens of this city and of Scotland who have gone to America, and the record they have made. We are proud of Scotchmen as citizens of America. They make good citizens of our country, and they find it profitable to themselves. I again thank you for the honor conferred upon me." On September 1st, General Grant and party visited Tay Bridge. One of the most striking features of the view obtained from the deck of the little steamer is that of the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 63 bridge itself, which, as seen from some little distance, com- bines massiveness with airiness of structure, impressing one even more than the almost fairy-like span of the Menai tubular bridge, or the larger and equally reputed, though perhaps less elegant, viaduct across the Hollandsche Diep. A few minutes' sailing brought the party to Wormi Pier, on the south side of the river, and immediately under the first span of Mr. Bouch's grand structure. At this place Admiral Maitland Dougal, Mr. Matthew McDougal, United States Consul at Dundee, and ex-Provost Ewan, Dundee, were in waiting to do honor to the General, not to speak of a numerous concourse of the public, comprising seemingly most of the workmen connected with the bridge, as well as many persons from the neighboring villages. After landing. General Grant, Mrs. Grant and some others were conducted to one of the rooms in the contractor's offices, where Mr. Grothe, the resident engineer, explained, with the aid of models and diagrams, the manner in which the large piers of the bridge were constructed, mentioning first that the bridge was designed on what is known as the lattice girder principle, and then stating that the piers were built on shore, floated out between two barges to the de- sired position in the river, sunk to a suitable foundation, and then brought up to high water mark. By means of an- other working model, the manner in which the girders were transported from the shore was illustrated, it being shown that the tide was the motive power by which masses of iron work weighing as much as two hundred tons were moved. The method by which these girders were raised from the river to the required height of eighty-eight feet above high water mark, through the agency of hydraulic apparatus, was also explained. Describing the work generally, Mr. Grothe said there were in all eighty-five spans, thirteen of which, over the navigable part of the river, were each two hundred and 64 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S forty-five feet in length, and carried nearly two hundred tons weight, while the smaller ones on either side of the channel were from sixty-seven to one hundred and forty- five feet long. It was further stated that considerable progress had been made with the works during the present season, and especially during the last month, nine spans of an aggregate weight of more than nine hundred tons hav- ing been lifted and fixed in their places within the latter period — a feat which has been accomplished by almost in- cessant work. In concluding his remarks, Mr. Grothe stated that in the winter the shortness of the day had of course been found very much against the progress of the work, and that to get over this difficulty there were used powerful electric lights, the currents for which were gener- ated by magneto-electric machines driven by a four-horse- power engine. It was added that the bridge was nearly completed, all the spans up forming a continuous line, and the fixing of timber and laying of rails on the top at pres- ent actively carried on. On the 7th September, General Grant was presented with the freedom of the city of Wick, and, in accepting, said : " During the eight years of my Presidency it was my only hope, which I am glad to say was realized, that all differ- ences between the two nations should be healed in a manner honorable to both. In my desire for that result it was my aim to do what was right, irrespective of any other consid- eration whatever. During all the negotiations, I felt the importance of maintaining friendly relations between the great English speaking peoples, which I believe to be essen- tial to the maintenance of peace and principle throughout the world." On the 8th, at Inverness, General Grant was presented with the freedom of the city, and a great reception given him. Ex-President Grant received the freedom of the city of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 65 Glasgow on the 13th. Replying to the address of the Lord Provost, he said that he would ever remember the day, and when back in America would refer with pride to his visit to Glasgow. He was so much a citizen of Scotland that it would be a serious question where he would vote. He thanked the Lord Provost for his kind words and the audi- ence for its welcome. The parchment was contained in a gold casket. The ceremony was witnessed by a large crowd, and the General was enthusiastically cheered. A banquet in his honor was given in the evening, but was of a private character. The reception of General Grant in Scotland was hearty and continuously enthusiastic. There was not a day since the General came to Scotland that he was not overwhelmed with kindnesses. The enthusiasm of the Scotch people and the great atten- tion shown to General Grant have a double significance. The people of Scotland sympathized with the North during the civil war, and always rejoiced when Grant or his generals won a victory. They have been curious to see the great man they have talked so much about, and take great pride in the fact that he is of Scotch descent. Hence the magnificent ovations at Edinburgh, Dundee, Melrose, Ayr, Glasgow, the Trossachs, and all the places at which he stopped. The finest and most enthusiastic reception was given at Glasgow. An immense hall, accommodating several thou- sand persons, was, all but places for four hundred specially invited guests, thrown open to the public. The cheering was so general and continuous that the ceremonies could only with difficulty be heard. At night the grand banquet at corporation hall was a splendid affair, embracing in the menu the viands and wines that make the best dinner Scot- land could furnish. Even tropical delicacies were in profu- sion, and the wines were exceptionally fine and in great vari- 5 66 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S ety. Several toasts were given, and speeches followed up to eleven o'clock. At this banquet the Lord Provost announced that there were no reporters present, and the editors there were expected to let the speeches pass without comment, in order that everybody could feel perfectly free in speaking. General Grant, on this account, probably, made the longest speech of his life, and the Lord Provost was finally, at the end of the feast, persuaded to yield his position against newspaper enter- prise. The speech of General Grant was brought about by a speech of *Mr. Anderson, M. P., of Glasgow, wherein he charged, turning to General Grant, that the United States had gained a victory over Great Britain in the creation of the Geneva arbitration. However, he said, Great Britain had agreed to the Washington treaty, and while disappointed with the result at Geneva, had stood manfully by it. In view of this, and the fact that the United States had completed the distribution of the award, and had some $8,000,000 left after all claims had been satisfied, he would be pleased to see the government return that amount in the interests of con- cord and thorough amity. This was said in a half earnest, half joking way, but was met with "hear, hear," all along the tables. General Grant in reply said that he had a great deal to do with the negotiations concerning the Washington treaty, and that he had always felt that our government had yielded too much to Great Britain in the matter. He was determined, however, from the first, that, if possible, the experiment of peaceful arbitration should prevail. It was his ambition to live to see all national disputes settled in this way. " I am called a man of war," said he, " but I never was a man of war. Though I entered the army at an early age, I got out of it whenever I found a chance to TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 6j do so creditably. I was always a man of peace, and I shall always continue of that mind. Though I may not live to see the general settlement of national disputes by arbitra- tion, it will not be very many years before that system of settlement will be adopted, and the immense standing armies that are depressing Europe by their great expense will be disbanded, and the arts of war almost forgotten in the general devotion of the people to the development of peace- ful industries. I want to see, and I believe I will, Great Britain, the United States and Canada joined with com- mon purpose in the advance of civilization, an invincible community of English-speaking nations that all the world beside could not conquer." The General went on in this vein for some time, and finally again touched the Alabama- claims question. He said: " There was one point in con- nection with that matter that I was glad we yielded — that was the indirect damage claim. I was always opposed to it, because I feared the future consequences of such a demand. In any future arbitration we would have been placed at a great disadvantage by its allowance. After that was settled we made our other demands, you made yours. It was a long time before the Joint High Commis- sion came together, but each side yielded here a bit and there a bit, until about as good a treaty as we could expect to get was completed. Mr. Anderson says many of the people of Great Britain believe we got the best of the bargain. I can assure you that we did not come out of the discussion as much benefited as we should have been. Many of our people were quite incensed, and fought the confirmation of the treaty, claiming that its terms were not broad enough to cover the losses of local interests, but a very large majority determined to stand by it in the inter- ests of peace and manly dealing with friends. We yielded more than we intended to yield, but had gone so far into the business of doing what we advocated that nine-tenths 68 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S of our people had no desire to recede. We did not want war, or even a new arbitration. We had been satisfied with the former, and the latter meant delay. We wanted the question settled peacefully, at once and forever. As to the $8,000,000 surplus Mr. Anderson mentions, I will explain that briefly. After the $15,500,000 awarded at Geneva was paid by Great Britain, the matter of its dis- tribution was presented to Congress. It became necessary to distribute it under the terms of the treaty, and it was found that if the insurance companies which had received war premiums were admitted to participation in the sum, it would not be large enough to go around. So they and other parties were excluded. Congress will legislate further in the matter, and the money will be distributed to rightful claimants, so that it will not be necessary to discuss the question of returning it to Great Britain." The General explained the workings of the system of dis- tributing the money, details of fact that are familiar to all Americans. We cannot reproduce his speech in full, because lead pencils and note books were prohibited. But the above, with expressive remarks touching his magnificent receptions in Scotland, and the renewed expressions of good feeling between Great Britain and the United States, is his speech in carefully prepared substance. At the end of it, the entire party, of perhaps two hundred persons, ap- plauded to the echo, and in this applause Mr. Anderson was one of the most ardent participants. General Grant's visit to Newcastle-on-Tyne, on the 2 1st, was the occasion of a most enthusiastic and remarkable demonstration. During the day the visitors visited the Exchange and other places of interest in Newcastle. There were numei"ous banners along the route, and large crowds of spectators. In the Exchange, General Grant received an address from the Chamber of Commerce, and, replying, thanked the large and enthusiastic audience for its TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. 69 kind reception, which was highly gratifying to him and the American people, who would accept it as a token of friend- ship between the two nations — he could not say two peo- ples, for they were really one, having a common destiny, which would be brilliant in proportion to their friendship. He referred to the honorable settlement of all differences between England and America, and said they ought not only keep peace with each other, but with all the world, and by their example stop the wars which are now devasta- ting Europe. The speech was loudly cheered. General Grant and the corporation then proceeded down the Tyne in a steamer, which was saluted with guns from almost every factory on the banks, every available spot on which was crowded with people. General Grant stood on the bridge of the steamer during the greater part of the voyage, bowing in response to repeated cheers. The steamer stopped at Jarrow and Tynemouth, at both of which places the municipal authorities presented most cordial addresses. The ceremony was witnessed by large and enthusiastic crowds. General Grant made suitable replies, of similar tenor to his Newcastle speech. At Tynemouth he said he had that day seen one hundred and fifty thousand people leave their homes and occupations to manifest friendship to America. The ex-President held a reception at New- castle in the evening. A great demonstration of the workmen of Northum- berland and Durham was held on the town moor of New- castle in honor of General Grant. Twenty-two trade societies participated in a procession, which occupied twenty minutes in passing a given point. The number of persons present on the moor was estimated at from forty to fifty thousand. The demonstration had no precedent since the great political meetings at the time of the Reform Agitation. Mr. Thomas Burt, member of Parliament for Morpeth, presented an eulogistic address to General Grant, JO GENERAL u. ». GRANT'S who said he thanked the workingmen for their very wel- come address, and thought this reception was the most honorable he could meet with. Alluding to what Mr. Burt had said concerning the late civil war, General Grant declared he had always been an advocate of peace, but when war was declared he went to the war for the cause which he believed to be right, and fought to the best of his ability to secure peace and safety to the nation. In regard to the relations between America and England, the General said that friendship now existed between the two countries, which he fully believed was increasing, and which would, in common with industry and civilization, increase in the future. On the same day the Mayor and Town Council of Gateshead presented the ex-President with a congratulatory address. General Grant expressed pleasure at his enthusi- astic reception in all the towns in the North of England, and said he was glad the good feeling between England and America was warmer to-day than it had ever been. A banquet was given in honor of General Grant in the evening, by the Mayor of Newcastle. In response to a toast to his health, the General said his reception in New- castle exceeded anything he had expected, and had been the warmest and best he had had or could have had. General Grant was met at Sunderland railway station by the Mayor and Messrs. Gourley and Burt, members of Parliament. The day was observed as almost a general holiday. Nearly ten thousand members of trade and friendly societies marched in procession. General Grant was present at the laying of the foundation stone of the library and museum. Replying to an address of the friendly and trade societies, General Grant said he would simply renew what he had said relative to the way in which labor was regarded in the United States, and the way in which he personally regarded it. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. ^1 At Leamington, Warwick, a grand reception was given General Grant, and participated in by the Mayor and lead- ing citizens. On arriving at Sheffield, on the 26th, General Grant was received at the railway station by the Mayor and cor- poration. A procession then formed to the Cutlers' Hall, where congratulatory addresses were presented by the Cor- porated Cutlers' Company and the Chamber of Commerce, to which General Grant briefly replied, referred to the American tariff, and reminded his hearers that the United States had to raise money to pay off the great debt incurred by the war. The revenue from imports was regarded solely as the means of attaining that end. If the United States were to abolish the revenue from imports, foreign bond- holders would very soon cry out when their interest was not forthcoming. He added : "We get along well enough with the payment of our debt, and will compete with you in your manufactures in the markets of the world. The more of your merchants and mechanics that goto America, the better. Nothing pleases us more than the immigration of the industry and intelligence of this community. We have room for all, and will try to treat you as you have treated me to-day." The General was loudly cheered. The following evening a grand banquet was given in his honor by the Mayor and corporation of Sheffield. The proceedings were most enthusiastic and cordial. General Grant arrived at Stratford-on-Avon on the 28th, and met with a brilliant reception. His visit was made the occasion of a festival, in which the whole town took part. The houses were decorated with flags, among which the American colors were conspicuous. The stars and stripes were displayed from the Town Hall and the Mayor's resi- dence. The Mayor and members of the corporation re- ceived the General and Mrs. Grant, who were accompanied 72 GENERAL V. S. GRANT'S by General Badeau, at the railway station, and escorted them to Shakespeare's birthplace. Thence the party pro- ceeded to the Museum, the church, Anne Hathaway's cot- tage, and other places of interest. The distinguished visitors were subsequently entertained at a public lunch in the Town Hall. A toast to the health of General Grant was proposed and drank with cheers, and he was presented with a very cordial address, enclosed in a casket made from the wood of the mulberry tree planted by Shakespeare. The General, replying to the toast, spoke most heartily of the welcome given him. He declared it would have been impossible for him to leave England without visiting the birthplace and home of Shakespeare. He pointed to the numerous American Shakespearian societies as proof of the honor paid the poet in the United States. General Grant and wife spent several days visiting their daughter, Mrs. Sartoris, at Southampton. On the 6th October, the corporation of the city received him, presenting a complimentary address. At Torquay, Mr. Alfred D. Jessup, of Philadelphia, gave a brilliant re- ception, the leading residents and noblemen of Torquay and vicinity being present. On the 1 6th, General Grant and party visited Birming- ham. On their arrival, they were received by the Mayor, and driven to the Town Hall, where the Town Council, a deputation of workingmen, and the Peace Society, pre- sented the General with addresses, which he briefly ac- knowledged. He was the guest of Mr. Chamberlain, M. P. The following evening General Grant was enter- tained at a banquet, the Mayor presiding. After the health of the Queen was drank, the Mayor proposed that of the President of the United States, as a potentate all should honor. This was received with due honor by the company. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 73 Mr. Chamberlain, M. P., then proposed the health of ex- President Grant in a happy speech, complimentary to the distinguished guest and his countrymen. General Grant, in response, referring to the last speak- er's allusion to the prompt disbandment of the army after the civil war, said: " We Americans claim so much per- sonal independence and general intelligence that I do not believe it possible for one man to assume any more author- ity than the constitution and laws give him." As to the re- marks that had been made as to the benefits which would accrue to America by the establishment of free trade, the General said he had a kind of recollection that England herself had a protective tariff until her manufactures were established. American manufactures were rapidly pro- gressing, and America was thus becoming a great free trade nation. [Laughter.] The General then warmly thanked the company for the reception they had given him. General Grant found the labor of accepting the hospi- tality of his English friends more arduous than the cares of State. It had, in fact, become so great a tax upon his health that from the first of October he had determined to retire to private life, and that the first thing he would do would be to avail himself of the courtesy extended by the Secretary of the Navy, to visit the Mediterranean in one of the vessels of the European squadron, and spend some lime in the waters of Italy. CHAPTER VII. GRANT IN PARIS. Ex-President Grant, accompanied by his wife and son T left London for Paris on the morning of October 24, 1877. On the arrival of the General and party at the railway sta- tion in Charing Cross, to take the train for Folkestone, he was greeted by a large crowd of Americans and English- men, who gave him a hearty cheer as he stepped out of his carriage. A special train was in waiting to convey the dis- tinguished party. The large space in front of the hotel and station, extending through to Trafalgar square, was filled with vehicles and pedestrians. After considerable hand-shaking in the waiting-room, and lively greetings on the platform, Sir Edward Watkin, the chairman of the Southeastern Railway Company, being in attendance, he and his guests boarded the train, which moved off precisely at ten o'clock. After a pleasant run of about two hours the train arrived at Folkestone, where General Grant was met at the wharf by the Mayor and members of the Com- mon Council; and fully two thousand of the inhabitants of this old Kentish town welcomed the ex-President with loud cheers. The General at once went on board the spe- cial yacht Victoria, accompanied by the Herald correspond- ent, Sergeant Gazelee, and one or two other officials, these being the only guests. As the trim-looking yacht, with the American flag flying at its fore, left the chalk cliffs of old England, the General stood upon the bridge and waved his hat, responsive to the cheers and adieus from the shore. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 75 The sea was calm, with only a gentle swell, and a fine summer yachting breeze prevailed. The General paced the deck, enjoying his cigar and studying the interesting points and scenery along the majestic cliffs on the south- eastern coast, where William the Conquerer landed and fought the battle of Hastings. On nearing r the French coast he beheld the sunny hills and shores of the memora- ble site of Napoleon's Boulogne camp, where the Auster- litz army so long prepared for the invasion of England. The Victoria arrived at the Boulogne wharf at a quar- ter to two o'clock. A large crowd of Frenchmen, who had been advised of the arrival of "the grand guerrier Americain, was in attendance, and received the guests with a hearty greet- ing. On entering the special train, the sub-Prefect of the Department met and was introduced to the General. In the name of the Marshal-President and of the French peo- ple, he welcomed him to the shores of France. The General expressed his warm acknowledgments, saying he had long cherished the wish to visit France, and he was delighted with the present opportunity. M. Hoguet- Grandsire, the Senator representing the Department of the Pas de Calais, also bade him welcome in a brief address, full of sympathy and kindly feeling. After a long delay, somewhat in contrast to the prompt- ness of the English railroads, the train started for Paris. On the way the General studied closely the scenery of the lovely country along the route, noted the principal indus- trial sections, and especially observed the wonderful agri- cultural resources of the country. General Grant spoke a great deal about his reception in England; that it had been unvarying in warmth, and, as to the hospitality of the people there, nothing could be more kind, considerate and gracious. Everywhere he had experienced, both in official and private circles, courtesy *]6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S and respect. At Amiens General Grant quietly partook of a dish of cousomme. As the train neared Paris the moon rose, and the Gen- eral curiously studied the prominent features of the great French capital. They reached the station at a quarter to eight o'clock. Generals Noyes and Torbert entered the car, accompanied by the Marquis d'Abzac, first Aide-de- Camp of the Marshal-President, the official whose duty it was to introduce ambassadors. In the name of the President of the French Republic, the Aide-de-Camp tendered General Grant a cordial wel- come. In reply, the General thanked the Marshal, saying he anticipated great pleasure and interest from his visit to France. Generals Noyes and Torbert greeted him warmly. The party had borne the journey splendidly, none of them showing the least fatigue. Among the Americans awaiting the arrival of General Grant at the station, in the company of the Minister, were General Meredith Read, from Greece; ex-Minister Part- ridge, Admiral Worden, the bankers Seligman, Winthrop and Munroe; Dr. Johnson, Dr. Warren, and the representa- tives of the leading New York journals. A richly carpeted salon was prepared at the station for the reception of the distinguished party. The ladies of the party, conducted by General Torbert, passed through this salon on their way to the carriages. A splendid bouquet was presented to Mrs. Grant by a French journalist on the way. General Grant followed, leaning on the arm of Min- ister Noyes. As soon as he appeared in the crowded salon, several rounds of hearty cheers were given, and a number of people were presented to him. The party then entered carriages, in company with General Noyes and the Marshal's Aide-de-Camp and intro- ducer of ambassadors. They drove to the Hotel Bristol, TOUR AROUND THE "WORLD. 77 where a handsome suite of rooms had been engaged for them. After a quiet dinner, General Grant smoked a cigar and retired early. The following morning opened dismally. Rain fell in torrents, and there seemed no prospect of its cessation. During the morning General Grant called upon his bank- ers, Messrs. Drexel, Harjes & Co. Upon his return, a mul- titude of visitors, including diplomatists, ambassadors and Americans, began to arrive, and continued to come until noon. The most eminent men of France were among the callers. At two o'clock, General Grant, wife and son, with Minister Noyes, drove to the Elysee, through a pouring rain. President MacMahon, the Duchess of Magenta, and the Duke Decazes, received the General most cordially. The Duchess did everything in her power to render the occasion agreeable. General Grant wore plain evening dress, calling upon the official head of the French people simply as any Amer- ican citizen, properly introduced, might. President MacMahon said that he was truly glad to welcome so eminent a soldier and citizen to France. In brief, the ex-President of the United States replied that the opportunity of expressing to the chief magistrate of France the friendly sentiments entertained throughout the length and breadth of America toward the French people was equally pleasing to him. The interview was entirely informal and exceedingly cordial. President MacMahon extended and General Grant accepted an invitation to dine at the Elysee on the Thurs- day following. At four o'clock the committee of resident Americans called to invite General Grant and family to a grand ban- quet to be given in his honor by the American residents of Paris, upon any date the General might see fit to appoint. General Grant named November 6, thanking the commit- 78 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S tee for the honor conferred upon him by his own country- men in a foreign land. Much agreeable conversation fol- lowed. In the evening General Grant, accompanied by a per- sonal friend, took a long walk around the Tuilleries, Palais Royal, Place de la Concord and the Boulevards, for two hours, seeing Paris by gaslight. This unanimity of the American residents in Paris, in assisting to make his stay a pleasant one, was one of the most pleasing incidents of the General's tour, and the cour- teous reception accorded by President MacMahon was not so much formality as it was an expression of the kindly feelings that exist between the French nation and our own, and will be regarded as an evidence that the century-old ties that bind the two nations together are not weakened by time or any alterations of the political conditions that have arisen, or are likely to arise, in either country. On the 27th, General Grant visited the Herald Bureau, remaining an hour or more. He then went to the studio of Mr. Healy, the American artist, and gave a sitting for a portrait; afterwards strolled about Montmartre and climbed the hill, which affords a fine view of Paris. In the even- ing he was honored by visits from several distinguished people, including the Comte de Paris, head of the Orleans family, and the Duchess of Magenta, wife of the Marshal- President. If being much feted brings much pleasure, General Grant must have been in a happy frame of mind. After the stately round of London festivities, which were led off by the magnificent reception at Minister Pierrepont's ; after becoming a citizen of some twenty-five Scotch burghs; after going through Belgium, and dining with kings and such; after the return to England, which led to the eating of dinners with some twenty-five fine old English corpora- tions, the imperturbable ex-President took his way to TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 79 Paris. He who would fight anything out on a certain line, if it took him all the four seasons, is not the man you can frighten with a string of long dinners. He has the confi- dence in himself that says, I can eat my way through all the marshals and marquises, from Finistere to the Alps. His Scotch campaign, no. less than his English, proved what broadsides of hospitality he can safely withstand. On the 29th, Minister Noyes gave a grand banquet and reception to General Grant. The banquet was a superb effort of culinary skill, which can work such gastronomic wonders when given carte blanche and where there is a cellar of monte christo to draw upon. President MacMa- hon had been invited, but declined on the ground of having recently refused to be present at several diplomatic dinners. He promised to be present at the reception in the evening. Twenty -two guests were present at the table: General and Mrs. Grant; Minister and Mrs. Noyes; Mme. Ber- thaut; M. Caillaux, Minister of Finance; M. Brunet, Minister of Public Instruction; M. Voisin, Prefect of Police; General Berthaut, Minister of War; M. Paris, Minister of Public Works; General Marquis d' Abzac, Aid-de-Camp to the President; Due de Broglie, President of the Council, Keeper of the Seals, Minister of Justice; Miss Lincoln; Jesse R. Grant; M. Duval, Prefect of the Seine; M. De Fourtou, Minister of the Interior; Viscounte de Meaux, Minister of Commerce; Miss Stevens; Duchess Decazes; M. Mollard, Introducer of Ambassadors; Lieu- tenant de la Panouse, Staff Officer of the Marshal; and M. Vignaux, Assistant Secretary of Legation. The fol- lowing was the menu : MENU. POTAGES. Tortue a l'Anglaise. Consomme a la Sevigne. HORS D'CEUVRES. Bouchees Agnes Sorel. RELEVE. Turbot, sauce creme, et crevettes. °° GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S F.NRTEES. Selles de chevreuil a la St. Hubert. Cotelettes de volailles a la Maintenon. Caisses d'ortolans a la Florentine. Filets de soles a la ravigote. PUNCH. Rose. ROTIS. Faisans truffes. Cailles sur croustades. ENTREMETS. Pate de foie gras de Strasbourg. Salade Parisienne. Crepes a la Bordelaise. Timbales d'ananas, Pompadour. Gateaux noisettes. DESSERT. VINS. Vieux Madere. Chateau d'Yquem, creme 1864. Chateau Lafitte, 1864. Chateau Margaux, 1869. Johannisberg, Metternich's, 1857. Clos Vougeot, 1858. Romanee Conti, 1865. Champagne Dry Monopole, 1870. Amontillado. Vieux Port, vintage 1858. Cognac, 1844. Kirschwasser. Anisette. Chartreuse. Curacoa. The banquet 'passed off without any special incident worthy of note, that charming flow of polite and witty, or, at least, pleasantly pointed conversation which character- izes French dinners, kept time to the melody of the repast itself. There was no English reserve to thaw — the French and the American enlendent without difficulty, and hence they make the best of neighbors around the snowy damask. At about nine o'clock the general reception began. A heavy rain had been falling all the afternoon and evening. It, of course, had no deterrent effect on the invited. It was not long before the salons were filled with guests. The guests were received by General Grant, Mrs. Grant and TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 8l their son, General and Mrs. Noyes, Consul-General Tor- bert, and Secretary Vignaux making the introductions. Mrs. Grant was dressed in a costume of heavy white satin, Mrs. Noyes appeared in a similar dress, General Grant and Minister Noyes wore plain evening dress, and General Torbert appearing in the full uniform of a major-general. The rooms, as the guests arrived, became perfect gar- dens of lovely colors. Brilliant uniforms, diplomatic orders and decorations, mingling with the sheen of silks and satins, made up a wonderful picture. Marshal MacMahon arrived early. He wore a plain evening dress, with the ribbon of the Legion, and a breast covered with orders. The Mar- shal stood for nearly an hour beside General Grant, join- ing in the conversation and receiving congratulations. As the two renowned soldiers stood side by side, one could not help contrasting them. Marshal MacMahon's ruddy, honest, Celtic face, white moustache and white hair, recalled the poet's figure of "a rose in snow"; Grant, calm, mas- sive and reserved, wore the same imperturbable face so well known at home. MacMahon seemed all nerve and restlessness; Grant looked all patience and repose. The contrast in person was indeed remarkable. Although each had come to the Presidency of a powerful republic over the same red road, the passion of arms commanding two great nations had led each to choose its foremost soldier as executive head. One had laid down his power at the feet of the people who conferred it. The other, a few months later, after a long and severe struggle with the hot and ungovernable radicals, was forced to give way to one more in sympathy with the dominant party. Meantime two great warlike careers touched in friendship in the parlors of Minister Noyes. The reception drew together the largest assembly of the American colony known in years, and they compared 6 82 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S favorably with the many European nations represented there. The refreshment tables were exquisitely arranged and well patronized, which is just how such a host as General Noyes would desire to have his sumptuous hospitality appreciated. On the 31st, General Grant visited the Palais d'lndus- ' trie, and the works where the statue of " Liberty" for New York harbor is being constructed. The sculptor, M. Bar- tholdi, presented him with a miniature model of the statue. In the evening the General attended the opera, where he was enthusiastically received by the audience, and treated with great ceremony by the officials. On November 1 , Marshal MacMahon gave a dinner at the Elysee, in honor of General Grant. Cabinet and Marshal's military household and prominent French and American residents were present. The banquet was a very brilliant and animated affair. After dinner, General Grant and Pres- ident MacMahon had a long conversation in the smoking- room. The Mai-shal invited General Grant to breakfast with him, as a friend, and also to witness some of the sit- tings of the Senate and Chamber of Deputies, which the General accepted, and was much pleased with his cordial reception. If Paris is the place where good Americans go after death, it is, all the same, a good place for great Americans to go during life. The magnificent banquet tendered No- vember 6, in the gay capital, to General Grant, by the resi- dent Americans, is a proof of the latter. The three hundred and fifty Americans who greeted our great soldier so hand- somely, one and all, thought so. As for the General, him- self, he has had so many courtesies from occasional kings and nobles, that he must have felt a thrill of pleasure pass through him, as he found himself face to face with a com- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. S3 pany in which every man was a sovereign. As for the ladies, God bless them! they are queens everywhere. Among those beside the General at the banquet, were men who carried the names, dear to all patriotic Americans, of Rochambeau and Lafayette. Thus did old France look kindly through the eyes of her descendants upon the chil- dren of the Republic of the West, which her blood and treasure did so much to found. The banqeting hall was splendidly decorated and illu- minated. The Franco-American Union contributed a portrait of General Grant, which, adorned with flags, was hung over the principal table. A band stationed in the gallery played at intervals, and vocal music was given by a chorus furnished by the director of the Italian opera. General Grant, Minister Noyes and General Torbert were in full military uniform. Mr. Noyes, as chairman, proposed the following toasts : — "The President of the United States," which was re- sponded to by music only. "The President of the French Republic," to which a similar response was made. These were followed by the toast of the evening, " Our Guest, General Grant," which was proposed by the Chair- man in the following speech : — "Ladies and Gentlemen: It has generally hap- pened, according to the world's history, that when a great public crisis has occurred, such as a revolution for inde- pendence or a struggle for national existence, some man has been found specially fitted for and equal to the emer- gency. He appears suddenly from unexpected quarters, and is not always selected from the arena of politics or from among the most prominent of his countrymen. He as- sumes at the proper time leadership and control, simply 84 GENERAL V. S. GRANT'S because he was born for it and seems to have waited for the opportunity and the necessity. "When the war of secession was inaugurated in America, in 1861, a quiet and silent man, who had received a military education, was pursuing' an avocation in civil life in a small town in Illinois. As soon as the first hostile guns opened upon Fort Sumter, he offered his services to his country and was appointed colonel of a regiment of volunteers. It was then believed that the war would be of short duration and limited in extent, but the North had un- derrated the spirit and perhaps the courage and endurance of the rebellious section. Early reverses and doubtful con- tests that were either defeats or drawn battles soon made it apparent that all the energies and resources of the govern- ment would be taxed to the uttermost. The theater of war rapidly extended until it stretched westward a thousand miles from the sea, across great rivers and mountain ranges. Immense armies were assembled in the South, composed of brave and chivalric soldiers and commanded by able and accomplished leaders. There were serious political troubles and divided sympathies among the people of the North, but both sides nerved themselves for the bloody and terri- ble struggle, which lasted four years and resulted in the success of the national forces. "Meantime our Illinois Colonel had risen in rank until there was no grade sufficient for his recognition and re- ward, and two new ones were successively created. This silent man had shaken the continent with the thunder of his artillery and the tramp of his victorious columns. At the close of the war he was general-in-chief, commanding all the armies of the Republic, which carried upon their muster rolls 1,100,000 men. The Union was preserved, and its flag everywhere respected. After the close of the war he was twice called by a grateful nation to the highest office in the gift of forty-five million people. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 85 "He administered the government with moderation, gen- erosity, wisdom and success. The civil power was con- fronted by many complicated and difficult questions. He solved them with rare patriotism and intelligence, and his place in history as a civil magistrate will be among the foremost. After sixteen years of such labor as few men could endure, after such success in war and peace as few men ever attain, he seeks recreation in many lands, and an opportunity to compare the institutions of his own country with the civilization and forms of government of the Old World. It is our happy privilege to-night to welcome the great soldier and statesman to this, the Queen City of the world, and to wish for him and his family health and hap- piness. Without detaining you longer, I propose the health of the distinguished guest of the evening, General Grant, ex-President of the United States." The delivery of General Noyes' speech was frequently interrupted by enthusiastic applause. General Grant, on rising to reply, was received with prolonged cheering. He said: " Ladies and Gentlemen : After your flattering reception, and the compliments of Governor Noyes, I am embarrassed to thank you as I should wish. During the five and a half months I have been in Europe, my recep- tion has been very gratifying, not only to me, but also, above all, to my country and countrymen, who were hon- ored by it. I thank the American colony of Paris. I hope its members will enjoy their visit here as I am doing and hope to do for some weeks yet. I hope when you return home you will find you realized the benefits predicted by our Minister." Loud and enthusiastic applause followed the General's speech. M. de Lafayette replied to the toast of "France." He •aid France duly appreciated the great leader and great 86 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S citizen who honored her by his visit. M. de Lafayette re- marked that General Grant quitted power solely to bow before the laws of his country. He thanked him for visit- ing France, because he was a great example for her, and because France gained from close inspection. In con- clusion, he alluded to the Revolutionary war, and expressed an ardent wish that the French and American republics should never be separated, but form an indissoluble union for the welfare, liberty and independence of peoples. The Marquis of Rochambeau also spoke in eulogy of General Grant. The toast, " The Army and Navy," was responded to by the singing of the " Star Spangled Banner " by the Italian chorus. Mr. Noyes finally proposed " The Ladies," and General Torbert offered « The Health of the United States Min- ister." Mr. Noyes replied briefly, and the company then adjourned to the drawing-room. After nearly a month's stay in Paris, having been dined and feted by nearly all the prominent and distinguished civilians and officials in this gay city, the great sensational event was the fete, consisting of a dinner and ball, given in honor of ex-President Grant by Mrs. Mackay, wife of "Bonanza" Mackay, on November 21, at her splendid mansion in the Rue Tilsit. The affair overshadowed in importance, as far as the American colony and fashionable society are concerned, anything that had preceded it in brilliant extravagance of display. Even the reporters were at a loss for hyperboles of descriptive style that could do justice to the pomp, splendor and sparkle of the occasion. The house where the affair took place cost one mil- lion five hundred thousand francs, and the furniture five hundred thousand francs. It looks out upon the Place d'Etoile, and is a splendid residence. The garden was brilliantly illuminated and decorated with national TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 87 flags, and with emblems set in thousands of gas jets. The orchestra, consisting of thirty-six musicians, was stationed on a pavilion built out from the house in front of the Rue Tilsit. A dozen footmen, in liveries of crimson and gold, lined the entrance and stairway. The carriages occupied the causeway in front. The vestibule, staircase and passage-ways were profusely deco- rated with flags and beautiful flowers. The rooms were magnificent. Everything that money could supply and ele- gant taste select was there to add to the beauty and im- pressiveness of the scene. There were covers for twenty-four, and the guests were General Grant and famil} r , and the members of the Amer- ican Legation and Consulate and their families. There were no unofficial Americans present at the dinner. The menu was inscribed on small silver tablettes, as in the case of the famous dinner to Senator Sharon at San Francisco. After the dinner, a grand reception and ball took place, at which three hundred guests were present. Among the guests were the Marquis de Lafayette, MM. de Rochambeau and de Bois-Thierry, the Due de Rivoli, the Due and Duchesse de Bojano, the Due and Mile. Ribon de Trohen, Comtes de Beon, Serrurrier, de Montferraut, de Divonns and Excelmans, the Baronne Delort de Gleon, Barons Houbeyran and de Reinach, and Vicomtes de Villestrux and Marchand, the Due Decazes, Senator Laboulaye, MM. Henri Martin and Leon Say, Mme. Guizot, Mr. and Mrs. Seligman and M. Cernuschi. The American colony was largely represented, and the number of beautiful women was very remarkable. The ladies' costumes displayed extraordinary taste, elegance and richness. The dancing commenced early and continued till four o'clock in the morning. During the latter part of November, General Grant was feted and dined by Mrs. General Sickles, at her resi- 88 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S dence in the Rue Presbourg, which was a brilliant affair; by the Marquis de Talleyrand-Perigord; by the Comte de Paris; Emile Girardin, editor of La France; M. Gam- betta; Mr. Healy, the American artist; M. Laugel, a prom- inent Orleanist, and at the house of Mr. Hatjes, the banker, was toasted for the last time in Paris. The gentlemen in the party were all Americans, and the affair was one of the most elegant which has taken place in Paris this season. As a guest of many distinguished persons in the gay capital, and a man honored in all circles, he had enjoyed an uncommonly brilliant round of festivities, and had been the subject of wide and various criticism, and had stood the fire of festivities and criticism alike with that imperturbable tranquility which is an inseparable element of his identity. CHAPTER VIII. THROUGH FRANCE. ITALY. General Grant and party reached Lyons on the 2d of December, and were received by the Prefect, the President of the Municipal Council, American residents and several of the leading silk merchants of Lyons. After a tour of inspection of the quays and places of interest, he left for Marseilles on the 3d, where he was received with great enthusiasm. On the 15th we find him at Genoa, he hav- ing previously visited Villa Franca and Leghorn. After visiting the town of Genoa, the General gave a reception to the authorities on board the United States steamer Van- dalia, Commander Robeson. Reaching Naples, early on the evening of the 17th, on the following day, in company with Mrs. Grant and son, he made the ascent of Mount Vesuvius, but, the day being cold, the party did not reach the crater. Luncheon was served at the " House of Refuge," near the Observatory, and a pleasant hour spent in enjoying the remarkable view of Capri and Ischia. The plain is studded with twenty villages and lined with snow clad hills, and the snow looked beautifully clear and white in the gorgeous sunlight of an Italian sky. They returned in the evening to the Vanda- lia, after having spent a delightfully pleasant day. On Wednesday the General and family, accompanied by Consul Duncan, Commander Robeson, Lieutenants Strong, Rush and Miller, and Engineer Baird, visited the ruins of 90 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS Pompeii. The government had made arrangements for a special excavation in honor of General Grant, so that he might see how the work was done, and see some of the curiosities recovered just as they were placed when the city was suddenly destroyed. The day was a little cold, but clear, and in every way favorable for the work. The director of the excavations received General Grant and party, and conducted them to the prin- cipal points of interest. Two hours were spent wandering among the ruins of this ancient and memorable city, and at every step something of interest was seen. The work- ingmen then proceeded to dig out the chamber of a buried house, and discovered some fragments of a table made of wood and bronze. The workmanship was very curious and elaborate, and was examined with great interest by the whole party. The next object of interest discovered was a loaf of bread, wrapped neatly in cloth and perfectly dis- tinguishable. Many other curious and interesting articles were found and inspected by the party of visitors, and all expressed themselves as highly gratified with their visit to the ruins of the ancient city. They returned in the even- ing. On Thursday ex-President Grant returned the official visits of the civil and military authorities of the city. As he left the Vandalia the yards were manned and a salute fired, the salute being returned by the Italian Admiral. General Grant then landed, and was met by the General commanding the district, who had a regiment of Bersaglieri drawn up in front of the Royal Palace, and reviewed by General Grant. Accompanied by the Italian officials, he then visited the naval and military schools and the palace, after which he attended a reception at the house of Consul Duncan. During these visits General Grant was accompanied by his son, Commander Robeson, Lieutenants Rush and TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 9 1 Miller, and a splendid retinue of Italian officials. The whole tone of the reception accorded him was cordial and stately. The General expressed himself with the greatest admiration of the Italian troops. Christmas we find General Grant and party on board the Vandalia, at Palermo. The General remained on board until noon to receive the visit of the Prefect, who came in state, and was honored with a salute of fifteen guns. His Honor remained only a few minutes, during which he tendered the General all the hospitalities and courtesies of the town, but General Grant declined them, with thanks. After the departure of the city authorities, the General and Captain Robeson went on shore, and sauntered about for two or three hours, looking on the holiday groups, who made the day a merry one in their Sicilian fashion. A Christmas dinner was furnished from the ship's larder. The hosts were Chief Engineer J. Trilley, Surgeon George Cooke, Lieutenant-Commander A. G. Caldwell, Lieutenant E. T. Strong, Past- Assistant-Engineers G. W. Baird and D. M. Fulmer, Lieutenant Jacob W. Miller, Paymaster J. P. Loomis, Lieutenant Richard Rush, Captain L. E. Fagan, commanding the marines, Lieutenant H. O. Handy, Lieutenant W. A. Hadden and Master J. W. Daunehower. These comprised the names of the ward- room officers of the Vandalia — a gallant, manly, chivalrous company they were. The guests of the evening were Gen- eral Grant and wife, Commander H. B. Robeson, and Jesse R. Grant. This was the company; the menu will give an idea of what a ship's kitchen can do for a Christ- mas dinner: MENU. Potage. Tomate puree. Bouchees a la reine. Cabellon a la Hollandaise. Puree de pommes. Dindonneau aux huitres. Haricots verts. 92 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS Filets aux champignons. Petite pois. Punch a la Romaine. Salade. Plum pudding. Mince pies. Dessert. It was nearly six when the soup made its appearance, and it was half-past eight before the waiters brought in the coffee. There was no hurry — no long pauses. The chat went round the table, the General doing his share of talk. It was a genial, home-like feast. Thus, Christmas, 1877, closed merry and pleasant. The next morning there were calls to make — official calls ; this is one of the duties of the General's trip. The incognito of General Grant is one that no one will respect. He declines all honors and attentions, so far as he can do so without rudeness, and is especially indifferent to the parade and etiquette by which his journey is surrounded. It is amusing, knowing General Grant's feelings on the subject, to read the articles in English and American papers about his craving for precedence, and his fear lest he may not have the proper seat at the table and the highest num- ber of guns for a salute. He had declined every attention of an official character thus far, except those whose non- acceptance would have been misconstrued. When he arrived at a port, his habit was to go ashore with his wife and son, see what was to be seen, and drift about from pal- ace to picture gallery, like any other wandering, studious American, " doing Europe." Sometimes the officials were too prompt for him, but generally, unless they called by appointment, they found the General absent. In this country a large class of our citizens have been misled by the false reports of the press and enemies of ex- President Grant, and believe that the General traveled like a prince, with a large retinue; that he was enabled to do so, because the men who fattened on the corruptions of his TOUR AROUKO THE WORLD. 93 administration gave him a share of their plunder. The truth is, General Grant traveled as a private citizen. He had one servant and a courier. His courier arranged for his hotel accommodations, and the one who did office for the General took pains to get as good bargains for his master as possible. So far as General Grant being a rich man, it is known by his friends that, when he left this country, the duration of his trip would depend entirely upon his income, and this income depends altogether upon the proceeds of his investment of the money presented to him at the close of the war. The Presidency yielded him nothing in the way of capital, and he has not now a dollar that came to him as an official. By this is meant, that the money paid to General Grant as a soldier and as a Presi- dent was spent by him in supporting the dignity of his office. Everybody knows how much money was given him at the close of the war; as this was all well invested and has grown, one may estimate the fortune of the Gen- eral, and about how long that fortune would enable him to travel like a prince over Europe. At Palermo General Grant and family remained several days, enjoying the delightful climate and picturesque attrac- tions. This Sicily is the land of many civilizations. Here Greek, the Carthagenian, the Roman and the Saracen, have made their mark. This is the land of the poetry of Homer, the genius of Archimedes, the philosophy and piety of Paul. These hills and bays and valleys have seen mighty armies striving for the mastery of the world. Certainly if example or precept, or the opportunity for great deeds, could ennoble a nation, Sicily should be the land of heroes. But its heroism has fallen into rags, and the descendants of the men who destroyed the Athenian fleet in Syracuse, and who confronted the power of Carthage at Agrigentum, now spend their time sleeping in the sun, swarming around chapel doors to beg, and hiding in the hills to waylay trav- 94 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S elers and rob them or keep them for a ransom. Brigand- age has for generations been the dominant industry in the Sicilies, but it is due to the present Italian government to say that they are doing all in their power to suppress it. On the 28th, General Grant and party arrived at La Valetta, Malta. At this place the General was visited by the Duke of Edinburgh, who was at Malta in com- mand of the Sultan, an English ironclad. His Royal Highness was received at the gangway by Captain Robe- son. He was dressed in his uniform as Captain, wearing on his breast the star of the Garter. General Grant advanced and greeted the Duke, and presented the gentlemen with him, and they retired to the cabin. They remained in conversation for the best part of an hour, talking about Malta, its antiquities, its history, England, education and the Eastern question. The Duke spoke of the visit of his brother-in-law, the Grand Duke Alexis, to America, and of the gratification of the family at the reception tendered him in America. His Royal Highness is a pattern of a sailor, and has all the ease and off-hand grace of the family. On taking his leave, he invited the General and family to visit him at his palace of San Antonio and take luncheon, which was accepted. The palace of San Antonio is about four miles from town ; it is surrounded by orange groves and walls, and is noted as the only large garden on the island. The drive was through an interesting country, and greatly enjoyed by the visitors. At the palace, the Duke and Duchess received the General and Mrs. Grant and their son in the most gracious manner. After luncheon His Royal High- ness escorted them through the orange groves. At noon General Grant visited the Governor-General of Malta. On leaving, the General was saluted with twenty-one guns. A regiment was drawn up in front of the palace as a guard of honor. The Governor, a famous old English TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 95 General, Van Straubeuzee, wore the Order of the Grand Cross of the Bath. He received the General and party at the door of the palace, surrounded by his council and a group of Maltese noblemen. After presentation to Lady Van Straubeuzee, the same ceremonies were repeated. In the evening there was a state dinner to the General and party at the palace, including, among the guests, Commander Robeson and Lieutenant-Commander Caldwell, of the Vandalia, as well as the Captain and executive officers of the Gettysburg. At the dinner General Grant's health was proposed, which was responded to in the heartiest manner. There were many temptations to remain in Malta. Hospitalities were showered upon General Grant. All the great ones vied with one another in making his visit a pleas- ant one. Yet on the last day of the year the General bid good-bye, and sailed for the land of the Lotus. CHAPTER IX. IN EGYPT AND THE LOTUS LAND. The voyage from Malta to Egypt was exceedingly un- pleasant. A severe storm prevailed most of the time, ren- dering life anything but comfortable. Unlike the majority of military heroes, General Grant seems to take kindly to the waves, and to be as much at home on them as if he had been educated at Annapolis instead of West Point. No storm, however severe, could deprive him of his cigar, or, to use a sea phrase, keep him below. In this respect he is very unlike Napoleon, who detested the sea, and whom the smell of tar invariably sickened. The English humorists never tired of twitting him on the fact, and the patriotic prints and cartoons at the time he was planning his celebrated invasion depict the conqueror of the continent in some exceedingly ludicrous positions. The General and party stopped at Alexandria because they wanted a safe anchorage, though they had intended going direct to Cairo. He remained there three days. The Vandalia had hardly anchored when the Governor of the district, the Admiral and the General, Pachas and Beys, Consul-General Farman, Judges Barringer and Morgan, and resident missionaries, came on board, and were received by General Grant. The Governor, in the name of the Khedive, welcomed General Grant to Egypt, and offered him a palace in Cairo, and a special steamer up the Nile. It is Oriental etiquette to return calls as soon as possible, and accordingly in the afternoon the General, accompanied TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 97 by his son, Commander Robeson, Chief Engineer Trilley> and Lieutenant Handy of the navy, landed in the official barge. As this was an official visit, the Vandalia manned the yards and fired twenty-one guns. These salutes were responded to by the Egyptian vessels; a guard of honor received the General at the palace, and the reception was after the manner of the Orientals. We enter a spacious chamber and are seated on a cush- ioned seat or divan, according to rank. The Pacha offers the company cigarettes. Then compliments are exchanged, the Pacha saying how proud Egypt is to see the illustrious stranger, and the General answering that he anticipates great pleasure in visiting Egypt. The Pacha gives a signal, and servants enter bearing little porcelain cups about as large as an egg, in filigree cases. This is the beverage — coffee — or, as was the case with this special Pacha, a hot drink spiced with cinnamon. Then the conversation con- tinues with judicious pauses, the Orientals being slow in speech and our General not apt to diffuse his opinions. In about five minutes we arise and file down-stairs in slow, solemn fashion, servants and guards saluting, and the visit is over. General and Mrs. Grant dined with Vice-Consul Sal- vage, and in the evening attended a ball given in their honor. This was an exceedingly brilliant entertainment, and interesting in one respect especially, because it was here that the General met Henry M. Stanley, just fresh from the African wilderness. Stanley sat on the right of the General, and they had a long conversation upon African matters and the practical results of the work done by the intrepid explorer. The Consul-General proposed the health of General Grant, and Judge Barringer pi-oposed that of Mrs. Grant, who was prevented by fatigue from attending. Then a toast was proposed in honor of Stan- ley, who made a grateful response, saying that it was one 7 9$ GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S of the proudest moments of his life to find himself seated by the guest of the evening. The entertainment at Mr. Salvage's at an end, the visitors returned on board the Vandalia. Sunday was spent quietly in a stroll about the town. Here the General and party left the Vandalia to visit Cairo and the Nile. Going by rail, they reached Cairo after a run of four hours. Here he was met by Gen- eral Stone, the representative of the Khedive, and also General Loring, both Americans, and late of the Confed- erate States army. General Grant and General Stone were together at West Point, and old friends. Their meet- ing was quite enthusiastic. The General asks General Loring to ride with him, while General Stone accompanies Mrs. Grant, and so they drive off to the Palace of Kassr- el-Doussa — the palace placed at General Grant's disposal by the Khedive. Commander Robeson and Lieutenant Rush accept the General's invitation to reside in the palace while they are in Cairo, and the remainder of the party find homes in the hotel. The General dined quietly with his family, and next day called on the Khedive. The hour fixed for the recep- tion was eleven, and a few minutes before that hour the state carriages called at the palace. The General wore plain evening dress, and was accompanied by the following officers: Commander H. B. Robeson, commanding the Vandalia; Joseph Trilley, chief engineer; George H. Cooke, surgeon; Lieutenant E. T. Strong, Lieutenant J. W. Miller, Paymaster J. P. Loomis; G. W. Baird, en- gineer; H. L. Hoskinson, ensign; B. F. Walling and E. S. Hotchkin, midshipmen; E. R. Freeman, engineer. Jesse R. Grant and Consul-General Farman accompanied the General. They reached the palace shortly after eleven. There was a guard of honor, and the officers of the house- hold were ranged on the stairs. The General entered, and was met by His Highness the Khedive at the foot of the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. • 99 stairs. The General, his son, and Mr. Farman, went into an inner room, where the ceremonies of the formal pre- sentation took place. The officers then entered, and were received by His Highness, who expressed his gratification at seeing so many representatives of the navy. This recep- tion lasted about half an hour. They then returned to the palace, and had scarcely entered when the carriage of the Khedive was announced. The General received the Khe- dive, who was accompanied by his Secretary for Foreign Affairs, and welcomed him in the grand saloon. The offi- cers of the Vandalia were present, and their striking uni- forms, the picturesque costumes of the Khedive and his attendants, and the splendid, stately decorations of the room in which they assembled, made the group imposing. At the close of the interview, General Grant escorted the Khe- dive to his carriage. Official calls were then made upon the two sons of the Khedive, who at once returned the calls, and so ended official duties. Judge Batcheller and Consul-General Farman each gave a grand dinner and ball in honor of the General, which were attended by the notables of all nations residing at Cairo. The thoughtful Khedive gave our distinguished traveler a steamer specially adapted to the intricate and difficult navi- gation of the Nile, also guides, interpreters, and professors learned in the mysterious language of the monuments and ruins which tell of a civilization that was old a thousand years before the dawn of the Western Roman empire. The party consisted of General and Mrs. Grant, their son, Sami Bey, Emile Brugsch, Consul-General Farman, Chief Sur- geon Cooke, Lieutenant Hadden, Ensign F. A. Wilner, and a correspondent of the New York Herald — ten in all. On the morning of the 19th of January, General Grant and party reached Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt, and containing twenty-five thousand inhabitants, where we IOO GENERAL U. S. GRANTS have a Vice-Consul, the city being at some distance from the river. After having received a call from Vice-Consul Wasif-el-Hayat, a Syrian, they all drove to the town. It was over parched fields, through a country parched with the drought, but in more favorable years blooming like a garden. All the town seemed to know of their coming, for whei'ever they went great crowds swarmed around, and they had to force their donkeys through masses of Arabs and Egyptians, of all ages arid conditions. The stores are little holes of rooms, in front of which the trader sits and calls upon you to buy. As these avenues are less than six feet, one can imagine the trouble had in making prog- ress. The town has some fine mosques and houses, but in the main is like all the towns of Upper Egypt, a collec- tion of mud hovels. A grand reception was given by the Vice-Consul. The dinner was regal in its profusion and splendor, and consisted of fully twenty courses, all well served. When it was concluded, the son of the host arose, and, in remarkably clear and correct English, proposed the General's health. We give a fragment of this speech: "Long have we heard and wondered," said the speaker, u at the strange progress which America has made during this past century by which she has taken the first position among the most widely civilized nations. She has so quickly improved in sciences, morals and arts that the world stands amazed at this extraordinary progress, which sur- passes the swiftness of lightning. It is to the hard work of her great and wise men that all this advance is imputed, those who have shown to the world what wise, courageous, pat- riotic men can do. Let all the world look to America and follow her example — that nation which has taken as the basis of her laws and the object of her undertakings to maintain freedom and equality among her own people, and secure them for others, avoiding all ambitious schemes which would draw her into bloody and disastrous wars,. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. IOI ?md trying by all means to maintain peace internally and externally. The only two great wars upon which she has engaged were entered upon for pure and just purposes — the first for releasing herself from the English yoke and erecting her independence, and the other for stopping slav- ery and strengthening the union of the States; and well we know that it was mainly, under God, due to the talent, courage and wisdom of his excellency, General Grant, that the latter of the two enterprises was brought to a success- ful issue." The speech closed by a tribute to the Gen- eral and the Khedive. General Grant said in response that nothing in his whole trip had so impressed him as this unexpected, this generous welcome in the heart of Egypt. He had anticipated great pleasure in his visit to Egypt, and the anticipation had been more than realized. He thanked his host, and especially the young man who had spoken of him with so high praise, for their reception. The dinner dissolved into coffee, conversation and cigars. On the 2 ist, at the town of Girgel, the General and party take to the donkeys and make a trip under the broil- ing hot sun, to the ruined city of Abydos. This was the oldest city in Egypt. It went back to Menes, the first of the Egyptian Kings, who reigned, according to Egyptian history, four thousand five hundred years before Christ. The ruins are on a grand scale. Abydos is a temple which the Khedive is rescuing from the sand. Here, according to tradition, was buried the god Osiris. To the ancient Egyptian, the burial place of that god was as sacred as Mecca to the Moslems, or the Holy Sep- ulchre was to the Mediaeval Christians. The govern- ment is trying to reclaim this temple, and has been digging in all directions. One excavation over fifty feet deep was visited. Remnants of an old house or tomb could be seen. - Millions of fragments of broken pottery around. The strata, that age after age had heaped upon the buried 102 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S city, were plainly visible. The city was really a city of tombs. In the ancient days the devout Egyptian craved burial near the tomb of Osiris, and so for centuries their re- mains were brought to Abydos from all parts of Egypt. Lunch was taken with Salib, an Arabian, who had for twenty years been working at the excavations, working with so much diligence that he had become entirely blind, and it is now his only comfort to wander through the ruins, direct the workmen, and trace with his finger many a loved inscription that his zeal has brought to light. Salib lives near the ruin, on a pension allowed by the Khedive. After an hour's rest, having ridden fifteen miles on donkeys and walked two or three in the sand, the visitors returned to the shelter and repose of the cabin of the Vandalia. We next find our visitors at Thebes, once a city that covered both banks of the Nile, was known to Homer as the city of the hundred gates. It had a population of three hundred thousand inhabitants, and sent out twenty thousand armed chariots. It was famed for its riches and its splendor until it was besieged. Here was the temple of Memnon and its colossal statues, and the palace temple of the great Ram- eses, the only ruin in Egypt known to be the home of a King; the columns of the Luxor, and the stupendous ruins of Kanark, and the tombs of the kings. Visiting the town of Luxor, a collection of houses built upon the ruins of the old temple, erected over three thousand years ago; there is a fine obelisk here, the companion to the one now standing in the Place Concordia, Paris; also a statue of Rameses, of colossal size, now broken and partly buried in the sand. Next morning the party crossed the river, and prepared for a ride to visit Memnon statues; arrived at their destina- tion, they found all that is left of Memnonism are the two colossal statues. A good part of the base is buried in the earth, but they loom up over the plain, and can be seen miles and miles away. Some idea of their size can be formed, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 103 when it is known that the statue measures eighteen feet three inches across the shoulders, sixteen feet six inches from the top of the shoulder to the elbow, and the portions of the body in due proportion. After examining these statues and resting a half hour, they visited the temple of Medesnet Habro, one of the great temples of Thebes, and the palace temple of the great Rameses, who lived thirteen hundred years before Christ, and is supposed by some to be the Pharaoh that brought the plagues upon Egypt. The walls of the palace are covered with inscrip- tions. After carefully exploring these interesting ruins, and luncheon being served in one of the old King's apartments, our party returned by the route of the early morning. Next morning, after a ride of forty minutes from Luxor, our party were at the ruined temple of Kanark, built in the days of Abraham. It is hard to realize that in the infinite and awful past, in the days when the Lord came down to the earth and communed with men and gave His command- ments, these columns and statues, these plinths and entabla- tures, these mighty, bending walls, upon which chaos has put its seal, were the shrines of a nation's faith and sover- eignty ; yet this is all told in stone. Kanark, which was not only a temple, but one in the series of temples which constituted Thebes, is about half a mile from the river, a mile or two from the temple of Luxor. The front wall or propylon is 370 feet broad, 50 feet deep, and the standing tower 140 feet high. Leading up to this main entrance is an avenue, lined with statues and sphinxes, 200 feet long. When you enter this gate, you enter an open court-yard 275 feet by 329. There is a cor- rider or cloister on either side; in the middle a double line of columns, of which only one remains. We now come to another wall or propylon, as large as the entrance, and enter the great hall — the most magnificent ruin in Egypt. The steps of the door are 40 feet by 10. The IO4 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS room is a 170 feet by 329, and the roof was supported by 134 columns. These columns are all or nearly all standing-, but the roof has gone. Twelve are 62 feet high without the plinth, and 1 1 feet 6 inches in diameter. One hundred and twenty-two are 42 feet 5 inches in height, and 28 feet in circumference. They were all brilliantly colored, and some of them retain their colors still ; and you can well imagine what must have been the blaze of light and color, when the kings and priests passed through in solemn pro- cession. We pass through another gate into an open court. Here is an obelisk in granite 75 feet high, and the fragments of another, its companion. The inscriptions on them are as clear as though they had been cut yesterday, so gentle is this climate in its dealings with time. They celebrate the victories and virtues of the kings who reigned 1700 years before Christ, and promise the kings in the name of the immortal gods that their glory shall live for ages. We pass into another chamber very much in ruins, and see another obelisk, 92 feet high and S feet square — the largest in the world. This monument commemorates the virtues of the king's daughter — womanly and queenly vir- tues, which met their reward, let us hope, thirty-five cen- turies ago. One may form some idea of what the Egyp- tians could do in the way of mechanics and engineering, when it is known that this obelisk is a single block of granite, that it was brought from the quarry, miles and miles away, erected and inscribed, in seven months. The next room was the sanctury, the holy of holies, and is now a mass of rubbish requiring nimble feet to climb. We scramble over stones and sand, until we come to what was the room where King Amenophis III., who lived sixteen centuries before Christ, was represented as giving offerings to fifty-six of his royal predecessors. The hall is a ruin, and some French Vandals carried off the tablet — one of the most valuable in Egypt — to Paris. Altogether the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. IO5 building alone was 1,108 feet long, and about 300 feet wide, the circuit around the outside, according to a Roman histo- rian who saw it in its glory, being about a mile and a half. This was the temple, but the temple was only a part. There were three avenues leading from it to the other tem- ples; these avenues were lined with statues, large and small, generally of the Sphinx. Some distance from the temple is a pool of water, known as the Sacred Lake. When an Egyptian died and was embalmed, his body was brought to the lake, where, if the deceased had lived worthily, the body was sprinkled with water from the lake by the priests, and was carried across to the other shore, and removed from there to the catacombs. Wherever we find walls we have inscriptions. The in- scriptions are in hieroglyphic language — a language as clear to scholars now as the Latin or Sanscrit. They tell of battles and the glory of the King Rameses, who is supposed to be the Sesostris of the Greeks. We see him leading his men to attack a fortified place. Again we see him leading foot soldiers and putting an enemy to the sword. We see him leading his captives as an offering to the gods, and offering not only prisoners, but booty of great value. The group of prisoners are rudely done, but you see the type of the race clearly outlined. We trace these types, and thus learn of the warlike achievements of this monarch whose fame is carved all over Egypt, and about whose name there is an interesting debate. Again and again these war themes are repeated, one king after another reciting his conquests and his virtues, wars and treaties of peace. It seemed in the building of these temples that the intention was to make the walls monumental records of the achievements of various reigns. When the walls were covered, or a king wished to be especially gracious to the priests, or, as is more probable, desired to employ his soldiers, he would build a new wing or addition to the temple already existing, striv- 106 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S ing, if possible, to make his own addition more magnificent than those of his predecessors. In this way came the great temple of Karnak. As a consequence, these stupendous^ inconceivable ruins were not the work of one prince or one generation, but of many; and as there was always some- thing to add, and always a new ambition coming into play, we find these temples, tombs, pyramids and obelisks, all piled one upon another, all inspired by the one sentiment, and all telling the same story. Here are the records, and here are the ruins. If the records read like a tale of en- chantment, these ruins look the work of gods. The world does not show, except where we.have evidences of the con- vulsions of nature, a ruin as vast as that of Karnak. Let the reader imagine a city covering two banks of the Hud- son, running as far as the Battery to Yonkers and back, seven miles, all densely built, and you have an idea of the extent of Thebes. But this will only give you an idea of size. The buildings were not Broadways and Fifth Av- enues, but temples and colossal monuments and tombs, the greatness of which, and the skill and the patience neces- sary to build them, exciting our wonder to-day. Thebes in its day must have been a wonder of the world — even of the ancient world, which knew Nineveh and Babylon. To-day all that remains are a few villages of mud huts, a few houses in stone, flying consular flags, a plain here and there strewed with ruins, and under the sand ruins even more stupendous than those we now see. At Keneh the General and his party landed and in- spected the town, making several purchases. The Pacha of the province, learning that so illustrious a visitor was in his domain, sent couriers at once to invite the General to his palace, which was accepted. This palace was a low brick building, like a barracks. The visitors were shown into the reception chamber, and ranged on the divan. There was a long waiting, when the Governor appeared, a stout, pleas- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 107 ant looking, gray mustached soldier, in his full uniform of a general. He received the General with courtesy, and there was the usual exchange of compliments ; then came the coffee and the pipes, and the adieu. The Governor ac- companied General Grant in his return walk, calling upon the German Consul, who had waylaid him and begged that he would honor his house. This officer lived in style ap- proaching splendor, and when his visitors were served with coffee and pipes they noticed that the pipestems were amber garnished with diamonds, and the coffeecups were of the finest porcelain in cases of silver and gold. These ceremonies over, the General and party returned to the boat, through a gust of sand. At Assouan, a town of four thousand inhabitants, five hundred and eighty miles south of Cairo and seven hundred and thirty from the Mediteranean, General Grant and party intended to end their journey. Assouan is the frontier station of Old Egypt, on the boundary of Nubia, and supposed to lay directly under the equator. In the ancient days the town was a quarry, and here were found the stones which became obelisks, temples and tombs. When Islam was marching to conquer the world, the Sar- acens made a town here and an outpost, and for years was the battlefield in the constant strifes and schisms between Nubian and Egyptian. At Assouan the aspect of the tour changes; we see the Nubian type, the predominance of the Negro. The people seem happy enough. They are sparing of clothes, live on sugar cane, and lie in the sun — a happy, laughing, idle, dirty, good humored race. Next day General Grant visited Philae, situated on an island at the foot of the first cataract of the Nile. It was by far the most interesting and picturesque ruin that our party had seen. The island is green, and the date palms of luxu- riant growth, and, unlike other portions of Egypt, we miss the sand, and can step trippingly over stones and turf. The Io8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S river here spreads in various channels, and runs over rocks. One channel is used for vessels ascending the river; the other for vessels descending the stream. The river is nar- row, the banks are steep, and the stream rolls and dashes like a sea, the waves roaring and lashing the banks. The danger is from the rocks and being dashed against its banks. In the morning the boat's prow is turned, and the Gen- eral is moving back toward the Vandalia. On his return trip the General stopped over night at Keneh, saw his old friend the Governor, stopped an hour at Siout, and on the 3d of February reached Memphis. Here are the tombs of the sacred bull. It was believed in the Egyptian mythology that the god Osiris came to earth and allowed himself to be put to death in order that the souls of the people might be saved. After his death there was a resurrection, and the immortal part of him passed into a bull, called Apis. The ride to the tombs of Memphis was a pleasant one. The ruins of Memphis are two or three tombs and the serapeum or mausoleum of the sacred bulls. One of the tombs being open, the visitors examined it, the walls having the same profuse decoration as had been noted at other points, entering a long, arched passage, with par- allel passages, candles having been placed at various points. On each side of this passage were the tombs. Each tomb was in its alcove ; the bull was placed in a huge sarcophagus, the surface finely polished and covered with inscriptions. These coffins were stupendous. The tombs have all been violated by the early conquerors, to find gold and silver. In most cases the cover has been shoved aside. The inside was so large that eight or ten men could enter. After finishing this study of the tombs, the party of visit- ors rode back to their boat, and in the morning steamed down to Cairo. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. IOO. General Grant had seen the Nile much more rapidly than is the custom. The General sent for the captain, and thanked him, and made him a handsome present, and gave presents to all on the boat, including the crew. At 12 o'clock the boat passed the bridge and moored at the wharf. The General and party returned to the pal- ace of Kaser-el-Nousa, where he remained three days, and then resumed his journey. CHAPTER X. TURKEY AND THE HOLY LAND. General Grant and party arrived at Jaffa on the morning of Sunday, February 10, having spent just one month on the Nile and vicinity. Upon landing, the visitors at once went to Vice-Consul Hardegg, and there found welcome and entertainment. There was a little archway of flowers and branches over the road, surmounted by the in- scription, "Welcome, General Grant," and all the town was out to do him honor. After visiting all the places of interest, General and Mrs. Grant, with four of the officers of the Vandalia, prepared to visit the Holy City. Having obtained three clumsy open wagons, each drawn by three horses, they drove out of the town into the plain of Sharon. It was too early in the season to see Palestine in its glory, but the plain was rich and fertile. The party reached Ramleh at about sundown, and remained over night, resum- ing their journey at six in the morning. Passing from the plain of Sharon into the country of Joshua and Sampson, the road becomes rough and stony, and the carts go bumping, thumping over the worst road in the world. The fertility of Palestine lies in the plain below. Around and ahead, the beauty of Palestine, the beauty of Nature in her deso- lation; no houses, no farms, no trace of civilization but the telegraph poles. The first biblical view is the ruins of Gezer, once a royal city of Canaan. Passing through the Kirjath Jearim, the valley of Ajalon and the scene of the great battle between David and Goliath, the valley is deep TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. Ill and the brook still runs a swift course. This was the last, ravine this side of the heights of Jerusalem, and one of the strongest natural defenses of the city. At this point Gen- eral Grant was met by a troop of cavalry, representatives from all of the Consulates, delegations from the Americans, Jews, Armenians and Greeks, resident in Jerusalem — in all quite a small army — and, instead of quietly entering the city as he had expected, he was commanded to enter as a con- queror, in a triumphal manner. Arrived at the city, General Grant was at once called upon by the Pacha and the Consuls. The Bishops and the Patriarchs all came and blessed the General and his house. The Pacha sent his band of fifty pieces in the evening to serenade the ex-President. The Pacha also gave a state dinner, which was largely attended. Early the following morning General Grant stole away, before the reception ceremonies, and walked over the street Via Dolorosa, con- secrated to Christianity as the street over which Jesus carried His cross. The General lived while in Jerusalem within five minutes' walk of Calvary, and within sight from his chamber. The first place of interest on this street is the Coptic monastery. Here Christ sank under the weight of the cross. At the ruins of the Hospice of the Knights of St. John; here is where Jesus addressed the women who followed him. A few steps further and we are at the house and tomb of Veronica, who wiped the blood from Jesus' holy brows, and left His image on her napkin. De- scending a slippery path, and at the corner is the house against which Christ leaned, overcome by agony. You see a dent in the stone. This dent was made by the hand of our Lord, as He stretched it out to support His burden. It is smooth and dark with the kisses of millions of believ- ing lips. The next house is that of Dives, the rich man. At this corner Simon of Cyrene took the cross and carried it a 112 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS part of the way. In front of the house of Dives is a stone, and over it a hovel. The hovel was the house of the beggar; the stone is where he sat in quest of alms, and under this archway Jesus stood and pronounced the para- ble which is found in the sixteenth chapter of Luke. Here the road makes another bend, and we pass a broken column, that must at one time have been a stately ornament. The column broke where Jesus sank upon it, and the fissure is clear and deep. We keep on until we come to a church, a bright, new church, with an arch over- hanging the street. This is the church of Ecce Homo. It was here or hereabouts that the road to the cross began. There is a barracks on the site of Pilate's judgment hall. We go into the church. Behind the altar is an arch, and under this arch Pilate stood when he delivered over Jesus to the Jews and washed his hands of innocent blood. Here, in an enclosure, was the whipping, the crowning with thorns, the decoration with the purple robes, and here also Jesus took up the cross, which He carried to Calvary. We can readily see, as we retrace our way up the Via Dolorosa, that it must have been a rough and weary road to one rent and torn and bleeding and crushed under the cruel burden of the cross. Even to the wayfarer, in full possession of his faculties, it is a tedious task to climb the hill of Calvary. After finishing the Via Dolorosa, the visitors kept on outside of the gates and over the valley of Jehoshaphat. Crossing the brook Kedron, the very brook hallowed by our Lord's holy and sorrowful footsteps, and ascending the hill a short distance, they come to a walled garden. Here Jesus knelt and prayed, and made holy forever the Garden of Gethsemanc. The good monk gathered some flowers for Mrs Grant, and for the others twigs and leaves from the " Tree of Agony." The party climbed the Mount of Olives to the summit,. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. II 3 and entered the chapel, said to be the site of the Ascension, now a Moslem mosque. From its minerets one can look far beyond to the land of Moab, the valley of the Jordan and the Dead Sea. Here a French princess has erected a tomb, and around the walls of which is the Lord's Prayer in thirty-two languages. Resuming the walk over a hill, they came to the vil- lage of Bethany, where Jesus lived when He preached in Jerusalem. Here was Lazarus, His friend, whom He raised from the tomb. Here lived Mary and Martha, whom Jesus loved. Riding under the overhanging ruins of the dwelling in which Jesus found home, shelter, friendship, love, they walk around Bethany, which is only a collec- tion of ruins and hovels. Passing over the graveyard where Lazarus was buried, they continue along the road that leads to Jerusalem again, by the road sloping at the base of the mountain. It was over this road that Jesus rode when He entered Jerusalem on an ass. At the head of the hill, Jesus wept over the city and prophesied its destruction. Entering the city by the Damascus gate, it was but a few minutes before General Grant and party reached their hotel. The walk had been a long and weary one, yet full of interest, every moment awakening a memory of the noblest moment of life, and every step taken had been over hallowed ground. Leaving Jerusalem, they visited Damascus, where their stay was made enjoyable by the attention of the Turkish officials. On March ioth General Grant and party arrived at Athens, and were escorted by three Greek ironclads, a large crowd witnessing the landing. On the 9th they were pre- sented to the King and Queen of Greece, and a grand ban- quet given in their honor on the ioth. The ruins of the ancient temples and the Parthenon were brilliantly illu- S 114 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S minated. On the 13th General Grant entertained the King of Greece at luncheon on board the United States Steamer Vandalia, and also lunched with the King on the 14th at the American Legation. The General's reception had been enthusiastic and hospitable. General Grant reached Naples on Monday evening, and proceeded at once to Rome. Here he was visited by Cardinal McCloskey, Lieutenant-General Count Sounaz, King Humbert's Aid-de-Camp, and all the dignitaries of the government, diplomatic agents, and prominent citizens. On the 25th, Minister Marsh gave a grand banquet and soiree in honor of General Grant. The foreign ministers, members of the cabinet, and most of the American resi- dents were present. Several days were spent in visiting places of interest. On May 5th, General Grant arrived at Turin, where he met with a hearty and enthusiastic reception, and on the 7th returned to the gay French capital. On Thursday the Ex-President paid visits to President McMahon, the Prince of Wales, Duc'd Aosta, the Due Saxe-Coburg, the Prefect of the Seine, and the Prefect of Police. On Friday he called upon the English, Turkish, Swedish and Japanese Ministers; in the afternoon he drove to the Bois de Boulogne and witnessed a game of polo, in which he took a lively in- terest. On Saturday the General and Mrs. Grant and their son visited the Exposition. He was received by Chief Commissioner McCormick and staff, and by the Commis- sioners from the various States of the Union, Minister Noyes, Consul-General Torbert and wife, and the leading; ladies and gentlemen of the American colony in Paris. The American marines were drawn up in military array, and gave the party a military salute on their arrival at the American section. The General and his party then examined the whole American department in detail. They spent a good deal TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I 15 of time among Tiffany's exhibit, where Bonanza Mackay's gorgeous service of silver plate, which cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, is exhibited. Then they proceeded to the machinery department, where the General was placed upon a square American plat- form — that of the Howe scale. General Grant, in fact, was weighed, and for the first time in his life "found wanting," having lost seventeen pounds by his Egyptian trip. Mr. Cunliffe Owen did the honors, in the Prince of Wales' pavilion, to the General and his party. A handsome collation was served in the Alimentation group, No. 17, of the American department, after which the party proceeded to visit the other sections. The following week, General Grant was the object of further attention, and enjoyed the amenities of Paris life to the full, receiving a visit from President McMahon and his wife, Prince Hassan of Egypt, Prince Albert and Prince Frederick of Austria, Prince and Princess of Denmark. The Comte de Paris sent his boxes at the Italian for Thursday, and at the grand opera on Friday. He dined with Mr. Ridgeway on Saturday. One of the pleasant things of the week was General Grant's visit to the polo grounds in the Bois de Boulogne. The Prince of Wales also went the same day. They wit- nessed a very interesting game. General Grant was ac- companied by his family and ex-Minister Beale. Thev remained an hour. The General said he thought the game might be intro- duced with great effect into the cavalry regiments and at West Point, as a good school of horsemanship for young soldiers. The third week of General Grant's stay in Paris was equally as pleasant, and every attention shown him. Mr. Morton, the banker, gave a " stag " dinner on Monday, and .the same night Mr. Waddington, the minister of foreign Il6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S affairs, gave the grandest ball of the season. Five thousand invitations were issued, and there was a perfect crush, but the costumes of the ladies were something even for a man to rave about. On Tuesday the American artist, Healy, gave a ball. On Wednesday there was a reception and ball at the Min- istry of Agi-iculture. On Friday Mrs. Hooper's private theatricals attracted a distinguished party. On Saturday there was a soiree dansante at Mrs. Wagner's, and on Sun- day Prince OrlofF, the Russian minister, gave a grand dinner to General Grant, which proved to be one of the most enjoyable entertainments given in his honor. These festivities were kept up, with little abatement, until the middle of June, when General Grant turned his eyes toward the northern lands of Europe, and paid his respects to his friends in Paris, and bowed himself out of that daz- zling sphere of dissipation, to recuperate in a "series of mild Dutch festivities — mild compared to the mad whirl of fes- tive Paris. General Grant arrived at the Hague in safety, and was met by Minister Birney, and, with Mrs. Grant, took up his residence, by special invitation, in the latter gentleman's house. Immediately upon the ex-President's arrival — almost before he had time to repose himself after his journey — in- vitations began to pour in upon him, and the routine of dinners, receptions, balls and visits began anew. On Monday evening Minister Birney entertained his distin- quished guest at a splendid dinner, which proved to be one of the great events of the season. Preparations on a large scale had been made for this occasion, which was a grati- fying success in every respect. All the members of the diplomatic corps in the city were present at this dinner, which was rendered still more brill- iant by the presence of the wives and lady friends of the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I 1 7 diplomats. After the dinner, which went off joyously, a splendid reception was given, in which the court circle, with its picturesque retinue of noble ladies and gentlemen, most of the members of Parliament, and other distinguished guests, participated. General Grant was, of course, the centre of attraction, and was treated with marked deference and honors. His manly, soldier-like bearing was admired on all sides, and every one was desirous of making his ac- quaintance. The reception continued until the small hours of morning, and was thoroughly enjoyable from beginning to end. On Tuesday evening a similar dinner was given in honor of the General at the residence of the Minister of For- eign Affairs, Baron de Heckeven de Kell. This was also followed by a reception no less brilliant than its predecessor. On the same day General Grant accepted an invitation to visit His Royal Highness Prince Frederic, uncle of the King. He chose the forenoon for the purpose of paying his respects to the Prince, who entertained him generously at a private dejeuner. After this friendly repast, the Prince ordered his carriage and had his guest driven through the spacious and beautiful grounds of the estate. A call was also made on Prince Alexander, son of the King. Each day was destined to bring its separate enjoyment. Wednesday was set apart for a parade of a portion of the troops of Holland, and the General was invited to review these sturdy Dutch soldiers, whose martial bearing im- pressed him very favorably. A large number of distin- guished ladies and gentlemen were present at the review, and the scene was exceedingly picturesque and attractive. The troops looked their best, and marched with fine pre- cision and dignity. The General limited his stay at The Hague, although he expressed a hope that he might return there before his de- parture. He then took the train for Rotterdam, where he Il8 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS arrived in a short time. He was received by the Burgo- master of that city, and was escorted around and shown va- rious objects of interest by this dignitary. The Burgomas- ter gave a dinner in his honor, to which a great many of the principal citizens were invited. The affair was very social and cordial. On Thursday the General made his way into the fa- mous city of Amsterdam, where he was greeted by throngs of people, who welcomed him in a truly enthusiastic man- ner. Several prominent citizens escorted him about, and extended to him an invitation for dinner on Saturday eve- ning. His residence in Amsterdam, although necessarily short, was as pleasant as could have been desired. General Grant's flying tour on Dutch territory was marked by attentions as gracious and as flattering as any he had yet received. In the steady, plodding cities of Hol- land, the phlegmatic citizens had been excited to enthusi- asm by the presence of the ex-President, and signified their admiration of his character and achievements by crowd- ing the streets which he passed. CHAPTER XL GRANT IN GERMANY, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA. On Wednesday, June 26, General Grant and party arrived at Berlin, Minister Taylor having met them at Stendahl, sixty miles below Berlin. On the evening of his coming, he strolled along the Unter den Linden, and his Berlin visit may be summed up in this sentence, that he walked the greater part of each day, and there was not a quarter of Berlin that he did not explore on foot with an energy as sightseer which no amount of exertion seemed to diminish. The General had an early interview with the members of the Congress of great diplomats assembled in Berlin to settle the Eastern question. At an interview with Prince GortschakofF, the General, in company with Mr. Taylor, calling at the Prince's request (as the gout prevented the Prince calling on the General), GortschakofF said that Russia would be glad to see and welcome the General, and he seemed delighted with the visit. Of the members of the Congress, Lord Beaconsfield, Lord Salisbury, M. Waddington and Count Corti were known to the General. Mehemet Ali he had met in Turkey. Visits were exchanged with these gentlemen and with the other members of the Congress. Among the first calls left on the General was that of Prince Bismarck, and as it did not find him at home it was left again. As the General was anxious to see the Prince, 120 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS for whose character and services he had so high an admira- tion, he returned these calls at once, and sent His Highness a message saying that he would make his visit at any time that would suit the PriAce, whom he knew to be a busy and an ill man. The afternoon at four was the hour named for the visit, and, as the General lives within a few moments' walk of the Bismarck Palace, at five minutes to four he slowly saun- tered through the Frederick Place. The Frederick Place is a small square, with roads and flowers and some famous old trees, laid out in memory of the great Frederick. It is decorated with statues of his leading generals. Everything runs to war in Germany, and the prevailing religion is swordsmanship. In this park are bronze statues of Ziethen, Seidlitz, Winterfeldt, Keith, Schwerin, and the Prince of Dessau. Passing out of the park, on the right, is the palace and home of the famous Prince Bismarck. An iron railing separates it from the street, and from the roof the flag of the German empire floats in the breeze. The General saunters into the courtyard, and the sen- tinels eye him a moment curiously, and then present arms. His visit had been expected, but certainly an ex-President of the United States would come in a carriage and six, and not quietly on foot. Throwing away a half-smoked cigar as he raises his hat in honor of the salute, he advances to the door, but before he has time to ring, two servants throw them open, and he passes into an open marble hall. Of all princes now living, this is, perhaps, the most renowned — this of Bismarck-Schinhausen — who comes with a swing- ing, bending gait through the opened and opening doors, with both hands extended, to meet the General. You note that time has borne heavily on the Prince these past few years. The iron-grey hair and mustache are nearly white ; there is weariness in the gait, a tired look in the face. But all the lines are there that are associated with Bismarck; for THE EARL OF BEACONS FIE LP RUSSIAN TURKO PEACE CONGRESS. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 121 if ever manhood, courage, intellect are written on a man's face by his Creator, they are written on this face of the German Chancellor. There is the lofty station, which seems to belong to the Bismarck stamp of men, the bold outlines of the brain, under which empires have found their fate, the frank, intrepid, penetrating eye, and in that firmly knit mouth the courage of the Saxon race. The Prince wore an officer's uniform, and, on taking the General's hand, said, " Glad to welcome General Grant to Germany." The General answered that there was no incident in his German visit that more interested him than this opportu- nity of meeting the Prince. Bismarck expressed surprise at seeing the General so young a man, but on a compari- son of ages it was found that Bismarck was only seven years the General's senior. " That," said the Prince, " shows the value of a military life; for here you have the frame of a young man, while I feel like an old man." The General, smiling, announced that he was at that period of life when he could have no higher compliment than being called a young man. By this time the Prince had escorted the General to a chair. It was his library or study, and an open window looked out upon a beautiful park, upon which the warm June sun was shining. This is the private park of the Radziwill Palace, which is now Bismarck's Berlin home. The library is a large, spacious room, the walls a gray marble, and the furniture plain. In one corner is a large and high writing- desk, where the Chancellor works, and on the varnished floors a few rugs are thrown. The Prince speaks English with precision, but slowly, as though lacking in practice, now and then taking refuge in a French word, but showing a thorough command of the language. After inquiring after the health of General Sheridan, who was a fellow-campaigner in France, and became a 122 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS great friend of Bismarck's, they discussed the Eastern ques- tion, military armament and strength, and the late atrocious attempt to assassinate the Emperor, giving the two great men an opportunity to discuss this phase of socialism. In speaking of this attempt on the life of the Emperor, the Prince paid this glowing tribute to the Emperor: " It is so strange, so strange and so sad. Here is an old man — one of the kindest old gentlemen in the world — and yet they must try and shoot him! There never was a more simple, more genuine, more — what shall I say? — more humane character than the Emperor's. He is totally un- like men born in his station, or many of them, at least. You know that men who come into the world in his rank, born princes, are apt to think themselves of another race and another world. They are apt to take small account of the wishes and feelings of others. All their education tends to deaden the human side. But this Emperor is so much of a man in all things ! He never did any one a wrong in his life. He never wounded any one's feelings; never imposed a hardship! He is the most genial and winning of men — thinking always, anxious always for the comfort and well- fare of his people, of those around him. You cannot con- ceive a finer type of the noble, courteous, charitable old gentleman, with every high quality of a prince, as well as every virtue of a man. I should have supposed that the Emperor could have walked alone all over the Empire without harm, and yet they must try and shoot him." The Prince asked the General when he might have the pleasure of seeing Mrs. Grant. The General answered that she would receive him at any convenient hour. " Then," said the Prince, " I will come to-morrow before the Congress meets." Both gentlemen arose, and the General renewed the ex- pression of his pleasure at having seen a man who was so well known and so highly esteemed in America. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 23 " General," answered the Prince, " the pleasure and the honor are mine. Germany and America have always been in so friendly a relation that nothing delights us more than to meet Americans, and especially an American who has done so much for his country, and whose name is so much honored in Germany as your own." The Prince and the General walked side by side to the door, and after shaking hands the General passed into the square. The guard presented arms, and the General lit a fresh cigar and slowly strolled home. " I am glad I have seen Bismarck," he remarked. " He is a man whose manner and bearing fully justify the opin- ions one forms of him. What he says about the Emperor was beautifully said, and should be known to all the Ger- mans and those who esteem Germany." Notable, also, among incidents of the Berlin stay, was a quiet, informal reception given to the General by Mr. Tay- lor, American Minister. Mr. Taylor was not aware of the General's coming until a day or two before his arrival, and the news found him an ill man. Then he had had no per- sonal acquaintance with the General, and if his home political sympathies ran in one direction more than another it was not in the direction of the General. Mr. Taylor regretted that the state of mourning in which the attempt on the Emperor's life had thrown Berlin, and the presence of the Congress, prevented his entertaining the General in a more ostentatious manner. But he made all the arrange- ments with the Court, and gave the General an evening party, which all the Americans in Berlin attended. The evening was enjoyable and interesting. The next day there was a small dinner party at the Embassy, and, in addition, there was a great deal of going around and seeing Berlin in a quiet way, which form of foreign life the General en- joys beyond any other. 124 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS The Crown Prince sent word to General Grant asking him to name an hour when he would review some troops in all arms. The General answered that any hour most convenient for the troops would be pleasant to him. So it was arranged at half-past seven in the morning. The General asked Mr. Coleman, of the Legation, to be one of his company. It had rained all night, a heavy, pitching, blowing rain, and when the morning came the prayers which Mr. Coleman had been offering up all night for better weather were found to have availed not. The General himself had a severe cold and a chill, which had been hanging over him for two days, and when he arose he could scarcely speak. There was a suggestion that the review be postponed. But the troops were under way, and the General would not hear of the suggestion. The place selected was the Tempelhof, a large open field outside of Berlin. When General Grant drove on the ground in a palace carriage he was met by the General commanding the Berlin troops and a large staff. A horse from the royal stables was in waiting, but the General was suffering so much that he would not mount. The rain kept its wild way, and the wind swept it in gusts across the open field, so much so that in a few moments, even with the protection of a carriage, the occupants were all thoroughly drenched. The manoeuvres went on all the same. There was a sham fight with infantry, all the incidents of a real battle — moving on the flank, in skirmish line, firing and re- treating, firing and advancing. Then came the order to fix bayonets and charge at double quick, the soldiers shout- ing and cheering as they advanced with that ringing cheer which, somehow, no one hears but in Saxon lands, and which stirs the blood like a trumpet. General Grant was attended by Major Igel, an intelligent officer. The General complimented the movements of the troops highly. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I25 After the manoeuvres and the sham fight, there was a march past, the General reviewing the line with bared head, to which the pitiless rain showed no mercy. " These are fine soldiers," he said, and thanked the com- mander for his courtesy. Then came artillery practice, the guns firing and sweep- ing over the field in a whirling, mad pace. This was fol- lowed by an artillery march past, which the General reviewed on foot, the rain still beating down. Then came cavalry. This was the most interesting phase of the display, especially one movement, where the battalion broke into disorder and rallied again. "This," said the Major, "we do to accustom our men to the contingency of disorder on the field, and enable every man to know how to take care of himself." The movement was effective and beautiful, and showed, said the General, the highest state of discipline. It was followed by a charge and a march past, the General, on foot, reviewing, and the rain whirling like a gust. After this they all drove to a military hospital and inspected it. Then to the quarters of a cavalry regiment, under the command of the Prince of Hohenzollern. The General was received by the officers, and went carefully through the quarters. After inspection there was a quiet mess-room lunch and a good deal of military talk, which showed that the General had not forgotten his trade. The General, at the close of the lunch, asked permis- sion to propose the prosperity of the regiment and the health of the Colonel. It was a regiment of which any army would be proud, and he hoped a day of trial would never come; but, if it did, he was sure it would do its part to maintain the ancient success of the Prussian army. He also desired to express his thanks to the Crown Prince for the pains that had been taken to show him this sample of his magnificent army. 126 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S The Prince answered in German, which Major Igel translated, that he was much complimented by the Gen- eral's toast, and that the annals of his regiment would always record the pride they felt in having had at their mess and as their guest so illustrious a leader. This closed the military services of the day. About midday a coupe stopped at the door of Minister Taylor's residence, and Prince Bismarck descended and touched his hat to the crowd. He wore a full military uni- form, a gilded helmet covering his brows, and was con- ducted to the apartments of the General, who presented the Prince to his wife and Mrs. Taylor, the wife of the Minis- ter. The Prince expressed again his satisfaction at seeing General Grant and his wife in Germany, and hoped Mrs. Grant would carry home the best impressions of the coun- try. It had been raining, and the skies were heavy with clouds, and the General himself, suffering from a cold, had been sitting in a carriage for two hours, the rain beating in his face, watching horsemen, artillery and infantry march and countermarch over the Tempelhof grounds. Altogether it had been a trying day, and everybody felt cheerless and damp. But Mrs. Grant has a nature that would see as much sunshine in Alaska as in Italy, on whose temper rain or snow never makes an impression, and she told His High- ness how delighted she was with Germany, with Potsdam and the Crown Prince, and more especially the Crown Princess, whose motherly, womanly ways had won quite a place in her womanly, motherly heart. They had had pleasant talks about children and households and wedding anniversaries, and domestic manners in Germany, and had no doubt exchanged a world of that sweet and sacred in- formation which ladies like to bestow on one another in the confidence of friendly conversation. Moreover, she was pleased to see Prince Bismarck, and expressed that pleasure, and there was a half hour of the pleasantest talk, not about TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 27 politics or wars or statesmanship, but on very human themes. The gentler side of the Prince came into play, and one who was present formed the opinion that there was a very sunny side to the man of blood and iron. As two o'clock drew near, the Prince arose and said: " I must go to my Congress, for, you see, although the business does not con- cern us greatly, it is business that must be attended to." The General escorted the Prince, and as he descended the crowd had become dense, for Bismarck rarely appears in public, and all Berlin honors him as foremost among Ger- man men. On July 11, the General dined with the Prince. The invitation card was in German, not French — a large, plain card, as follows: FUERSTVON BISMARCK beehrt sich General U. S. GRANT zum Diner am Montag, den 1, Juli, urn 6 Unr, ganz ergebenst einzuladen. U. A. w. g The menu was in French. MENU. Lundi, le ler juillet. Potage Mulligatawny. Pates a la financiere. Turbot d'Ostende a l'Anglaise. Quartier de baeuf a la Holsteinaise. Canetons aux olives. Ris de veau a la Milanaise. Punch romain. Poulardes de Bruxelles. Salade. Compotes. Fonds d'artichauts a la Hollandaise. Pain de Fraises a la Chantilly. Glaces. Dessert. The General, with his military habits of promptness, entered the palace at six precisely, accompanied by his wife, 128 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S Mr. Bayard Taylor, the Minister, and Mrs. Taylor, and H. Sidney Everett, the Secretary of Legation. The Prince and Princess Bismarck, and the Countess Marie GrafinVon Bismarck, accompanied by the Prince's two sons, met the General at the door of the salon and presented him to the various guests. There was a hearty greeting for the Min- ister and his party, and the Princess and Mrs. Grant were soon on the waves of an animated conversation. The company numbered about thirty, and a few moments after the General's arrival dinner was announced. The Prince led the way, escorting Mrs. Grant, who sat on his right, with Mrs. Taylor on his left, the General and the Princess vis-a-vis, with Mr. Von Schlozer, the German Minister at Washington, between. The remainder of the company were members of the Cabinet and high persons in Berlin. About half-past seven, or later, the dinner was over, and the company adjourned to another room. General Grant had several interviews with Bismarck, and the interchange of opinion and criticism took a wide range, and seemed to strengthen the high opinion each had for the other. The contrast between the two faces was a study; no two faces, Of this generation, at least, have been more widely drawn. In expression Bismarck has what might be an intense face, a moving, restless eye, that might flame in an instant. His conversation is irregular, rapid, audacious, with gleams of humor, saying the oddest and frankest things, and enjoying anything that amuses him so much that, frequently, he will not, cannot finish the sen- tence, for laughing. Grant, whose enjoyment of humor is keen, never passes beyond a smile. In conversation he talks his theme directly out with care, avoiding no detail, correcting himself if he slips in any, exceedingly accurate in statement, and who always talks well, because he never talks about what he does not know. One notes in comparing the two faces how much more TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I2Q, youth there is in that of Grant than of Bismarck. Grant's face was tired enough two years ago, when fresh from that witches' dame of an Electoral Commission — it had that weary look which you see in Bismarck's, but it has gone, and of the two men one would certainly deem Grant the junior by twenty years. Mr. Taylor, the American Minister, was evidently impressed with the historical value of the meeting of Grant and Bismarck. He remembered a German custom that you can never cement a friendship without a glass of old- fashioned schnapps. There was a bottle of a famous schnapps cordial, among other bottles — no matter how old it was — and the Minister said, " General, no patriotic Ger- man will believe that there can ever be lasting friendship between Germany and the United States unless yourself and the Prince pledge eternal amity between all Germans and Americans over a glass of this schnapps." The Prince laughed, and thanked the Minister for the suggestion. The schnapps was poured out, the General and Prince touched glasses, and the vows were exchanged in hearty fashion. General Grant arrived at Gothenburg on the 12th of July. He was met by a crowd of over five thousand people, who cheered loudly for him of whom they had *heard so much. The Swedes, who have emigrated in such large numbers to the United States, have spread his fame among their countrymen at home. The ships in the harbor were all decorated in his honor. He passed the day in Gothen- burg, and then continued his journey to Christiana. All the villages along the route were decorated, and his com- ing was made the occasion of a gala day. He landed at Christiana on the 13th, and was received with great ceremony. Ten thousand people flocked to greet him. King Oscar II. came to Christiana from Stock- 9 130 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS holm to meet the General, and gave him a dinner and a reception. The General set out sightseeing, and was conducted to the old castle of Aggershuus, with its citadel and church on the brow of a point jutting out into the fiord, over whose winding shore-line and smooth waters, broken by wooded islands, it gives a fine view. The reception of the ex-President throughout Scandi- navia was enthusiastic and remarkable, everywhere the citizens turning out en masse to welcome and honor him. At Stockholm, on the 24th, he was tendered a grand state banquet and dinner at the Embassy, and was serenaded, and a large crowd assembled and cheered him as he embarked for Russia. General Grant arrived at St. Petersburg July 30. On arriving in the Russian capital, he was met by Minister Stoughton, whose wonderful coronal of snowy locks never shone more magnificently over his rosy cheeks. The Emperor's Aid-de-Camp, Prince GortschakofF, and other high officials of the imperial court, called immedi- ately, welcoming the ex-President in the name of the Czar. On the following day General Grant had an audience with the Emperor Alexander, which was of a pleasant nature. The imperial yacht conveyed the General to Peterhof, the Verseilles of St. Petersburg. It is fifteen miles from the capital, but it has one advantage over the old French royal extra-mural residence in that, from the imperial palace, one has almost urivaled views over Cronstadt and the Gulf of Finland, and of the capital itself. The fountains were played in honor of the visit. He afterward visited the great Russian man-of-war, Peter the Great. The band played American airs, and a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired. The imperial TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 131 yacht then steamed slowly among the Russian fleet lying off Cronstadt, the ships running out American colors, and the sailors cheering. Subsequently the General had an interview with the Czar at St. Petersburg. The Emperor manifested great cordiality. The General was presented by Prince Gort- schakofF. His Majesty talked of his health and the Gen- eral's travels. He seemed greatly interested in our national wards, the Indians, and made several inquiries as to their mode of warfare. At the close of the interview, the Emperor accompanied General Grant to the door, saying: — " Since the foundation of your government, the rela- tions between Russia and America have been of the friend- liest character; and as long as I live nothing shall be spared to continue that friendship." The General answered that, although the two govern- ments were directly opposite in character, the great major- ity of the American people were in sympathy with Russia, and would, he hoped, so continue. At the station, General Grant met the Grand Duke Alexis, who was very cordial, recalling with pleasure his visits to America. A visit was also made to the great Chancellor, Prince GortschakofF, with whom the General spent some hours, smoking and discussing American and European affairs. The Czarowitch also received General Grant at special audience. The French Ambassador gave a dinner to the General, and there was a special review of the fire brigade in his honor. The attentions of the Emperor and the authorities were so marked that he prolonged his stay several days. On the 9th instant he was in Moscow, the ancient capital of Russia. He dined with Prince Dogoroff on the ioth, I32 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS was at Warsaw the 13th. At all of these cities he was received with the same marked cordiality, and his visit recalled with feelings of pleasure. On the iSth our ex-President arrived at Vienna. At the railroad station he was met by Minister Kasson, the secretaries and members of the American Legation, and a large number of the American residents. He was loudly cheered as he stepped out of the railway carriage. On the 19th the General was visited at the Legation of the United States by Count Andrassy, the First Minister of the Council, and several colleagues. In the evening he dined with the Countess and Mrs. Grant at Post's. On the 20th he had an audience of His Imperial Majesty Fran- cis Joseph, at the lovely palace of Schoenbrunn, spending the remainder of the day driving about the imperial grounds and forests, and visiting points of interest in that romantic and historic neighborhood. On the 2 1st General and Mrs. Grant were entertained by the imperial family, and dined with the Emperor in the evening. During the morning Baron Steinberg accom- panied the Emperor's American guests to the Arsenal. On the 22d Minister Kasson gave a diplomatic dinner in honor of our ex-President, at which nearly all the for- eign Ambassadors were present. The members of the Austro-Hungarian Cabinet attended the reception in the evening, and added to the attractiveness and brilliancy of the occasion. The General expressed himself greatly pleased with Vienna, and thought it a charming city. He was gratified also at the marked attentions of the Emperor's household, and the earnest endeavor shown to honor him as a citizen of the United States. On September 23 General Grant was at Zurich, and dined with the American Consul, S. H. Byers, at the Hotel Bauer. Among the distinguished guests were Burgomas- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 33 ter Roemer, of Zurich; Feer-Herzog, a National Council- lor; the German poet, Kinkel; General Vogelli, of the Swiss army; Mr. Nicholas Fish, the American Charge d'Affaires at Berne, and many prominent Swiss citizens. When the cloth was removed, Consul Byers, after a few appropriate remarks, asked his guests to drink the health of his renowned countryman, " who, having led half a mil- lion of men to victory, and having governed a great nation for eight years, needs no praise from me." General Grant's health was then drank with all the honors. The Burgo- master expressed, in a brief and happy speech, the interest with which the Swiss people followed General Grant's career as a soldier and as President of the great Republic, and said that the honor done and the pleasure given to the citizens of Zurich by ex-President Grant's visit was very great. In response, General Grant expressed a deep sense of pleasure and honor at meeting such distinguished Swiss gentlemen. He thanked the citizens of Zurich, through their Mayor, for their cordial reception, which he regarded as a symbol of the good feeling existing between the two countries. The General concluded by proposing the health of the President of the Federal Council and nation, and the prosperity of the city of Zurich. Feer-Herzog replied in an eloquent allusion to the amity existing between the two countries, and ended by proposing the health of President Hayes. Mr. Nicholas Fish responded, testifying to " the memory cherished by all true United States citizens of the Switzers who fought and died during the American war — giving their lives and services from the pure, unselfish sympathy of their hearts and their inborn love of freedom. The acts of those heroes are to Americans the guarantee of Switzerland's sympathy in the hour of need and of despair." Other speeches were made, and the dinner was, alto- 134 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S gether, a thoroughly enjoyable occasion. In every respect General Grant's reception in the land of William Tell has been as hearty as in any place in Europe. The General left for Paris the following morning. CHAPTER XII. GENERAL GRANT IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. General Grant arrived at the French capital on Septem- ber 25, from Belfort. He was met at the station by Minister Noyes, ex-Governor Fairchild, ex-Governor Mc- Cormick, and other American officials. The General was in excellent health and spirits, and had experienced so little fatigue during his journey that, after dining en famille, he strolled along the boulevards for more than two hours. A grand dinner was given to the ex-President October 3 by Mr. Edward F. Noyes, the United States Minister, at the Legation. Among the invited guests were the follow- ing distinguished Americans: General and Mrs. Grant, John Welsh, Minister to England; John A. Kasson, Min- ister to Austria; J. Meredith Read, Charge d'Affaires to Greece; General Hazen, United States Army; General Lucius Fairchild, Consul-General at Paris; ex-Governor McCormick, Commissioner-General to the Paris Exposi- tion; ex-Governor Smith, of New Hampshire, and Miss Waite, daughter of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States. General Grant, having abandoned his contemplated trip to India for the present, concluded to remain in Paris and vicinity for the winter, and planned a month's tour through Spain, Portugal and Algiers. The ex-President and party arrived in Vittoria, hav- ing entered Spain from France by the Bayonne route. The little town of Irun, which is just over the frontier, I36 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S itfforded the first glimpse of Spanish life and character. Its neat railway station was draped with flags and bunting, and on the platform was a group of officers of the royal guard, standing apart from those privileged citizens who had been admitted within the barriers. Beyond, clearly seen through the gates and station windows, struggling for a glimpse of the distinguished visitor, were the villagers and the country people, who, denied admission to the yard, were none the less active in their demonstrations of curi- osity. As the train drew up at the platform, General Grant alighted from his carriage. The ranking officer of the del- egation, a general on the staff of Alfonzo XII., advanced, and, saluting the visitor, welcomed him, in the King's name, to the Iberian Peninsula. He stated that he was directed by His Majesty to place at the General's disposal the special railway carriage of the King, and to beg an acceptance of the same. General Grant expressed his thanks in a few words, and accepted the proffered courtesy. The train moved out of the little village toward the war-begrimed city of San Sebastian — the last stronghold of the Carlists. At San Sebastian, General Grant was received by Emilio Castelar, ex-President of the Spanish Republic. To the well known statesman and journalist, General Grant was exceedingly cordial. He concluded his remarks by saying: "Believe me, sir, the name of Castelar is espe- cially honored in America." Here, as at Irun, were gath- ered many people to see General Grant, and he was presented to the town officials and the distinguished citi- zens. The contracted harbor reflected the green of the tree-covered hills that encircle it so nearly, and beyond the cone-like isle at its mouth was the sheen of the noonday sun on the Bay of Biscay. Leaving this place, the road leads southward toward Tolosa and Vergara. At both of these stations a squad of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 37 soldiers was stationed. The usual military guard had been doubled in honor of the American General. After wind- ing about the hills beyond the station of Tolosa, the train suddenly leaves the defiles behind and smoothly skirts the side of a great hill, giving the occupants of the carriages a grand view to the southward. Near at hand are seen the peaks of the Pyrenees — only the extreme western spur of the range, to be sure, but very formidable looking barriers to railway engineering. Altogether, the journey is a charming, Swiss-like ride, creeping, as the traveler does, through what were once dangerous mountain paths, and where, even yet, the railway coaches are alternately in the wildest forests of scraggy pine and the long-leaved chestnut. Passing the summit, the descent southward is soon marked by a radical change in the aspect of the country. Villages are met more frequently, until, winding toward the west through the Welsh-looking hills, the train dashes into Vittoria. Here the General was received on alighting by the civil and military authorities attached to the King's military and civil staff. He repaired at once to his hotel. The annual manoeuvres of the Spanish army were being held here, and the King and his entire staff were in Vittoria. At night the General strolled out through the tangled streets of the old part of the town. He inspected the bazaars in the Plaza Nueva, and the pretty streets in the new portion of the city. The Alameda was crowded with people, and the General seemed to enjoy the life al fresco almost as much as the citizens of the capital of Alava. The following morning General Grant was received by King Alfonzo at the Ayuntamiento, or residence of the Alcade, quite a palace in its exterior and interior adorn- ments. The King, who speaks English fluently, said that he had long had a curiosity to meet the General, whose civil and military career was so familiar to him. He said there was no man living whom Spain would more gladly I38 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S honor. The interview was long and cordial, and much good feeling was shown on both sides. At eleven o'clock, General Grant, King Alfonzo and a splendid retinue of generals, left the King's official resi- dence to witness the manoeuvres that were to take place on the historic field of Vittoria, where the French, under Joseph Bonaparte and Jourdan, were finally crushed in Spain by the allies, under Wellington (June 21, 18 13). King Alfonzo and General Grant rode at the head of the column side by side, His Majesty pointing out the objects of interest to the right and the left, and, when the vicinity of the famous field was reached, halting for a few minutes to indicate to his guest the locations of the different armies on that famous June morning. As they proceeded thence, General Concha was called to the side of the King and introduced to General Grant. Several other distinguished officers were then presented. The weather was very fine, and the scene was one of great interest to the American visitor. General Grant spent all day on horseback, wit- nessing the manoeuvres. The King and his guest, returned to the city late in the afternoon. At night he dined with the King, and the next day General Grant reviewed the troops, and at night he left for Madrid. Altogether, both at the palace and on the field, General Grant's reception was royal in pomp and attention, and will be likely to impress the reader with the opinion that in no country has the reception of our great soldier been more free, manly and royal than in Spain. Met at the frontier by representatives of His Majesty, escorted to the presence of the monarch, shown a review on the battlefield of Vittoria, and treated in all ways as the especial guest of the sovereign, the ex-President cer- tainly received in this case every mark of consideration and honor that a king could bestow upon a visitor. General Grant, it is true, has expressed in Europe the sense of his TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I39 satiety with the military shows of life, and they might have hit his individual taste more accurately in some other way; yet a review on a famous battlefield is a piece of historic pageantry aside from ordinary reviews; and an honor in which history itself is called upon to pay tribute to a visitor is not to be had every day. The General was especially favored in the conditions un- der which he has visited the various nations of Europe, meeting all its great statesmen on friendly terms. Bea- consfield, Bismarck, Gortschakoff, Gambetta and others have chatted with him familiarly, and he has heard much from them about the socialists and their crazy theories. In Berlin he heard from Bismarck's lips his hot indignation over the recent wounding of the Emperor, and now in Spain he actually witnesses an attempt on the life of a king. With all the horror of the crime and contempt of the crimi- nals which must have entered his mind, he has, doubtless, pondered over the state of society in Europe which makes these atrocious attempts seem epidemic. He must have recognized a social disease, to diagnose which the statesmen he met did not bring unbiassed minds. It would be curi- ous to know his impressions on the subject of misgovern- ment in Europe. The excitement occasioned by the attempt on King Alfonso's life was intense. The criminal fired from the sidewalk in front of house No. 93 Calle Mayor, not far from the arched entrance to the Plaza Mayor. He aimed too low, however, and the ball passed through the hand of a soldier standing guard on the opposite side of the street. The King saw the flash, and, with an involuntary move- ment of his hand, checked his horse momentarily. He then rode tranquilly onward toward the palace. Several women who were standing near the man who fired pointed him out with loud cries, and he was at once secured. He did not make the slightest attempt to escape. Terrible in- I40 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS dignation was manifested among the people forming the crowd that almost immediately gathered from the bazaars and the markets in the Plaza Mayor — that doleful old en- closed square, where the autos da fe and the fiestas reales took place during and even since the days of the Inquisi- tion, but now given over to the venders of dates, pome- granates and base metal jewelry. Attempts were made to wreak summary vengeance upon the assassin when he was on his way to the Gobierno Civil. Thence he was soon removed to the Captain-Generalcy. The prisoner displayed great coolness during his com- mitment. He insolently drew a cigar from his pocket, which, after having struck a match, he coolly lit and began to smoke. He is a very thin man, of medium height, wears a light mustache, and has his hair closely cropped. He admitted the crime, and triumphantly declared himself a socialist and internationalist; but, when interrogated as to who his accomplices were, denied that he had acted in con- cert with any one. He said that he came alone from Tara- gona purposely to kill a king. This was his first serious disappointment in life. General Grant was standing, when the shot was fired, at a window of the Hotel de Paris (situated at the junction of the Carrera San Geronimo and the Calle de Alcala), over- looking the Puerta del Sol. This hotel is a long distance from the scene of the attack, but looks across the great cen- tral plaza of Madrid, directly down the Calle Mayor. Gen- eral Grant, who was following with his eyes the progress of the royal cavalcade which had just passed across the Puerta del Sol before him, said that he clearly saw the flash of the assassin's pistol. The General had already "booked" for Lisbon by the night train leaving at seven o'clock, and therefore could not in person present his congratulations to King Alfonso; but to Senor Silvera, the Minister of State, who called soon after and accompanied him to the railway TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I4I station, General Grant expressed his sympathies, and re- grets that he was unable to postpone his journey in order that he might personally call upon His Majesty. He begged Senor Silvera to convey to the King his sincere congratulations on his escape from the assassin's bullet. There was a great gathering of diplomats, nobles and men of all parties at the palace to offer congratulations on Friday night and Saturday morning. Marshal Serrano (Duke de la Torre) was one of the first callers. Minister James Russell Lowell and Mr. Ried, Secretary of Legation, called at the palace Saturday, and expressed their gratification at the King's escape. The King made light of the whole affair, but the popular indignation was intense. General Grant dined with King Luis at Lisbon, November i . All the members of the ministry were present, including the Marquis of Avilae Bolama, Minister of State and of Foreign Affairs; Conseilhero J. de Mello e Gauvea, Finance Minister; Conseilhero J. de Sande Magalhaes Mexia Salema, Minister of Justice; Conseilhero A. F. de Sousa Pinto, Minister of War; the Count De Castro, and other members of the judiciary and military departments of the kingdom. The palace was gayly trimmed with flags, and the day was a festival throughout the city. King Luis' reception of the ex-President of the United States was very cordial. His Majesty offered the General the highest decoration of knighthood known to the king- dom. General Grant thanked the King, but said he was compelled to decline the honors, as the laws of the United States made it impossible for an officer to wear decorations, and, although he was not now in office, he preferred to respect the law. He thanked His Majesty heartily for the honor intended. King Luis then offered him a copy of his translation of " Hamlet " into Portuguese, which General Grant accepted with many thanks. Amoug the pleasantest experiences of his European I42 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S tour General Grant will certainly rank his cordial reception by King Luis at Lisbon. Overshadowed as Portugal is politically by the greater power on the Iberian Peninsula, it has a sturdy life of its own, which, until thrones are abol- ished, it promises to retain. The house of Braganza, which, through the stress of circumstances, sent its scions to this side of the Atlantic, builded better than it knew. In Brazil it found a scope for its usefulness that it could not have hoped for in the narrower limits of the parent kingdom. The coming of General Grant was, doubtless, quite an im- portant event in the somewhat dull routine of court life at Lisbon, and everything appears to have been done to make it pleasant and memorable for the guest. General Grant's polite but firm refusal to accept the highest order of knight- hood in the kingdom may have come with a certain shock to the monarch, for kings are seldom refused in such matters. The ex-President arrived at Seville on the 8th, and was received with great honor by the civil and military author- ities of the city. The populace showed every mark of respect to the distinguished American, and the bearing of the officials was most cordial. On Friday he breakfasted with the Duke de Montpensier, father of the late Queen Mercedes. On Tuesday he reached Cadiz. He was received at the landing place by the Mayor of the city and the civil and military officials. A guard of honor was in attendance, and a large crowd cheered the ex- President as he passed out. The reception was most enthusiastic on the part of the people, and very cordial on that of the authorities. On the 17th General Grant and party left Cadiz for Gibraltar. The sea was very calm, and the delightful voyage' was greatly enjoyed by all. The first welcome sight to the visitors was the American flag flying from one of our men-of-war. There was some trouble in distinguish- ing the vessel until a near approach, when old friends TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I43 were recognized in the persons of Captain Robeson and shipmates of the Vandalia. The General directed his vessel to steam around the Vandalia, and cordial greetings were exchanged between the two ships. As they headed into port, the Vandalia mounted her yards, and Captain Robeson came in his barge to take the General on shore. The American Consul, Mr. Sprague, and two officers of Lord Napier's staff, met the General and welcomed him to Gibraltar in the name of the General commanding. Amid a high sea, which threw its spray over most of the party, they pulled ashore. On landing, a guard of honor presented arms, and the General drove at once to the house of Mr. Sprague, on the hill. Mr. Sprague has lived many years at Gibraltar, and is the oldest consular officer in the service of the United States. General Grant was the third ex-President he has entertained at his house. Lord Napier, of Magdala, the commander at Gibraltar, had telegraphed to Cadiz, ask- ing the General to dinner on the evening of his arrival. At seven o'clock, the General and Mrs. Grant, accompa- nied by the Consul, went to the palace of the Governor, called The Convent, and were received in the most hospi- table manner by Lord Napier. His Lordship had expressed a great desire to meet General Grant, and relations of cour- tesy had passed between them before — Lord Napier, who commanded the expeditionary force in Abyssinia, having sent General Grant King Theodore's bible. The visit to Gibraltar may be summed up in a series of dinners — first, at the Governor's palace; second, with the mess of the Royal Artillery; again, at the Consul's. Then there were one or two private and informal dinners at Lord Napier's; and, in fact, most of General Grant's time at Gibraltar was spent in the company of this distinguished commander — a stroll around the batteries, a ride over the hills, a gallop along the 144 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S beach, a review of troops, and taking part in a sham battle. Lord Napier was anxious to show General Grant his troops, and although, as those who know the General can tes- tify, he has a special aversion to military display, he spent an afternoon in witnessing a march past of the British gar- rison, and afterward a sham battle. It was a beautiful day for the manoeuvres. General Grant rode to the field, accompanied by Lord Napier, Gen. Conolly, and others of the staff. Mrs. Grant, accompanied by the Consul and the ladies of the Consul's family, followed, and took up her station by the reviewing post. The English bands all played American airs out of compliment to the General, and the review was given in his honor. Lord Napier was exceedingly pleased with the troops, and said to General Grant he supposed they were on their best behavior, as he had never seen them do so well. The General examined them very closely, and said that he did not see how their discipline could be improved. " I have seen," said the General, "most of the troops of Europe; they all seemed good ; I liked the Germans very much, and the Spaniards only wanted good officers, so far as I could see, to bring them up to the highest standard ; but these have something about them — I suppose it is their Saxon blood — which none of the rest possess; they have the swing of conquest." The General would have liked to have remained at Gib- raltar longer, but there is nothing in the town beyond the garrison. We suppose his real attraction to the place was the pleasure he found in Lord Napier's society, and again coming in contact with English ways and customs,' after having been so long with the stranger. General Grant spent several days at Pau, where he was engaged in hunting, and making short journeys into the Pyrenees. He returned to Paris on the nth of December, having accepted the offer of President Hayes to go to India on the United States corvette Richmond. The President's TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. H5 offer was made in the most flattering terms. After visiting Ireland, his plan was to embark at Marseilles and proceed direct to India via the Suez Canal. In no country had the great American soldier been more royally received, or favored with more noteworthy associations, than in Spain and Portugal. 10 CHAPTER XIII. GENERAL GRANT IN IRELAND. If anything was a moral certainty, it was that when General Grant visited Ireland he would meet with a popu- lar reception of the most enthusiastic description. That he was a great and successful soldier was a high claim upon a people with such admiration of the chivalrous; that he had led to victory so many thousands of Irishmen and sons of Irishmen in the war for the Union, brought him still closer to them, for there is scarcely a household in all Ire- land that has not some family link with the Irish beyond the Atlantic. To him Fame justly ascribes the salvation of that government and that flag under which the famine- stricken, the oppressed and the evicted of Ireland had found homes, prosperity and freedom. During the war for the Union the people of Ireland prayed, like Lincoln at Get- tysburg, that this " government of the people, for the peo- ple # and by the people, should not perish from the earth." They could not fit out ships to fight the Alabamas that En- gland was letting go, but they sent out many a sturdy son to do battle for the Union. To an immense proportion of the Irish people General Grant typifies the republican form of government which they hope for. By the officials of the British government General Grant was, of course, received as a foremost citizen of a friendly power; but it was in its popular feature that his visit was the most interesting. General Grant and family, accompanied by Minister Noyes, arrived in Dublin, by boat, on the morning of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I47 January 3, 1879. The ex-President was met by repre- sentatives of the corporation. He was driven to the Shel- bourne Hotel, and at once prepared to visit the City Hall to meet the Lord Mayor. The city was full of strangers, and much enthusiasm was manifested when the General and his party left their hotel to drive to the Mansion House. On arriving at the Mayor's official residence, they were cheered by a large crowd that had gathered to greet the illustrious ex-President. The Lord Mayor, in presenting the freedom of the city, referred to the cordiality always existing between America and Ireland, and hoped that in America General Grant would do everything he could to help a people who sympathize with every American move- ment. The parchment, on which was engrossed the free- dom of the city, was inclosed in an ancient, carved bog-oak casket. General Grant appeared to be highly impressed by the generous language of the Lord Mayor. He replied: "I feel very proud of being made a citizen of the principal city of Ireland, and no honor that I have received has given me greater satisfaction. I am by birth the citizen of a country where there are more Irishmen, native born or by descent, than in all Ireland. When in office I had the honor — and it was a great one, indeed — of representing more Irishmen and descendants of Irishmen than does Her Majesty the Queen of England. I am not an eloquent speaker, and can simply thank you for the great courtesy you have shown me." Three cheers were given for General Grant at the close of his remarks, and then three more were added for the people of the United States. Mr. Isaac Butt, the well known home-rule member of Parliament, speaking as the first honorary freeman of this city, congratulated General Grant on having consoli- dated into peace and harmony the turbulent political and sectional elements over which he triumphed as a soldier. I48 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S His speech throughout was highly complimentary of the ex-President. In the evening a grand banquet was given in honor of the ex- President, over two hundred guests being present. The Lord Mayor presided. General Noyes returned thanks for a toast to President Hayes' health. When Gen- eral Grant's name was proposed, the company arose and gave the Irish welcome. The ex-President made in response the longest speech of his life, speaking in a clear voice, and being listened to with rapt attention. He referred to himself and fellow citi- zens of Dublin, and intimated, amid much laughter and cheering, that he might return to Dublin one day and run against Barrington for Mayor, and Butt for Parliament. He warned those gentlemen that he was generally a troub- lesome candidate. Then passing to serious matters, the General said: — " We have heard some words spoken about our country — my country, before I was naturalized in another. We have a very great country, a prosperous country, with room for a great many people. We have been suffering for some years from very great oppression. The world has felt it. There is no question about the fact that, when you have forty-five millions of consumers such as we are, and when they are made to feel poverty, then the whole world must feel it. " You have had here great prosperity because of our great extravagance and our great misfortunes. We had a war which drew into it almost every man who could bear arms, and my friend who spoke so eloquently to you a few moments ago lost a leg in it. You did not observe that, perhaps, as he has a wooden one in place of it. "When that great conflict was going on, we were spend- ing one thousand million dollars a year more than we were producing, and Europe got every dollar of it. It made for TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I49 you a false prosperity. , You were getting our bonds and our promises to pay. You were cashing them yourselves. That made great prosperity, and made producers beyond the real necessities of the world at peace. But we finally got through that great conflict, and with an inflated cur- rency which was far below the specie you use here. It made our people still more extravagant. Our speculations were going on, and we still continued to spend three or four hundred millions of money per year more than we were producing, "We paid it back to you for your labor and manufac- tures, and it made you apparently and really prosperous. We, on the other hand, were getting really poor, but being honest, however, we came to the day of solid, honest pay- ment. We came down to the necessity of selling more than we bought. Now we have turned the corner. We have had our days of depression; yours is just coming on. I hope it is nearly over. Our prosperity is commencing, and as we become prosperous you will, too, because we become increased consumers of your products as well as our own. I think it safe to say that the United States, with a few years' more such prosperity, will consume as much more as they did. Two distinguished men have alluded to this subject — one was the President of the United States, and he said that the prosperity of the United States would be felt to the bounds of the civilized world. The other was Lord Beaconsfield, the most far-seeing man, the one who seems to me to see as far into the future as any man I know, and he says the same as President Hayes." General Grant's speech created a profound sensation, and was loudly cheered during its delivery. The following morning ex-President Grant, Mr. Noyes and Mr. Badeau visited the Royal Irish Academy, in Kil- dare Street, in company with Lord Mayor Barrington. 150 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S Here, after some time spent in inspecting the treasures of ancient Irish art in gold, silver and bronze, Saint Patrick's bell and sacred cross, and O'Donnell's casque, the party went to the building that was the old Parliament house. It is now the bank of Ireland, and the walls which formerly echoed with the eloquence of Grattan, Curran and Plunk- ett, now resound with the chaffering of the money changers. Trinity College was then visited. The party was received by the Provost and Fellows and escorted through the library, chapel and halls of this venerable and majestic pile. General Grant drove to the vice- regal lodge of the Duke of Marlborough, Phoenix Park, early in the after- noon, where he had dejeuner with the Viceroy. He afterward visited the Zoological Gardens, then returned to his hotel, where he rested a couple of hours. It may be interesting to notice the contrast between the generous welcome extended to General Grant by the peo- ple of Dublin, and the uncalled-for and spiteful slight aimed at him by a clique of the Cork City Council, as showing to what lengths sectional and religious agitation are some- times carried. The United States Consul at Cork addressed a letter to the Council, announcing that Grant would probably arrive in Cork within a few days. Mr. Tracy, a nationalist, proposed at the Council meeting that the letter should simply be marked " read," and that no action should be taken. Mr. Harris, a conservative, said : " It will be to the interest of our fellow-countrymen in the United States if a proper reception is accorded to General Grant, who represents the governing party in that country. There can be no personal antipathy to the gentleman himself; neither was there anything in the government of the ex- President objectionable to the Irish people nor unpleasant to the Irish in America. Probably General Grant would again be at the head of the United States, in which event TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 151 it would be to the interest of our fellow-countrymen in America if proper recognition was given to General Grant on his arrival at Cork." Mr. Barry, an extreme nationalist, said the ex-President had insulted the Irish people in America. He got up the " No Popery " cry there. Mr. Tracy said it would be unbecoming for the Catholic constituency of Cork to welcome such a man. It would be ungenerous to refuse him hospitality if he deserved it, but he saw nothing in General Grant's career that called for sympathy from the Irish nation. He never thought of the Irish race as he thought of others, and he went out of his way to insult their religion. Mr. Dwyer, an advanced nationalist, would not couple General Grant's name with America. The Irish who sought a refuge and a home in the United States had re- ceived kindness and attention from the American people. President Grant had never given them the same recogni- tion as the other inhabitants. It would be an impropriety to pay any mark of respect personally to General Grant. Messrs. McSweeny and Creedon, nationalists, spoke to the same effect, and with a great shout of " Aye," there being no dissenting voices, Cork refused to receive General Grant. The New York Herald, commenting on this action of the City Council of Cork, said : " The Town Council of Cork has done more to ad- vertise itself in connection with General Grant than the municipal authority of any other city in Europe. The respectful hospitalities of which the American ex-Presi- dent has been the object since he left his native shores nearly two years ago have been so constant, so uniform, so unbroken, that the recital of them was beginning to pall upon public attention. Monotony at last grows tiresome, even if it be a monotony of highly seasoned com- 152 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS pliments. A break of continuity in the long round of festive receptions given to General Grant heightens their effect by a little dash of contrast. It is like one of those rough lines which poets sometimes introduce into their compositions to recall attention to the harmony which pervades the general structure of their verse." " The Town Council of Cork has made a discovery which had escaped the rest of Catholic Europe and of Catholic Ireland. It proclaims, as a justification of its dis- courtesy, that President Grant went out of his way to insult its religion. The deeds of General Grant have not been done in a corner, and it seems odd enough that it was reserved for the Town Council of Cork to detect and pro- claim a fact which has escaped the knowledge of Europe and America. Our traveling ex-President has been as warmly received in Catholic Italy and Spain as in Protestant England and Germany; he has been as much honored by the Catholic President MacMahon, as by the Protestant, Queen Victoria; and even Catholic Dublin has not fallen behind the sister cities of the United Kingdom. The Town Council of Cork would seem to be better Catholics than the Pope himself. " General Grant had decided, before learning of the singular action at Cork, that it would not suit his conven- ience to pay a visit to that city. He thinks that its author- ities have convicted themselves of a strange inattention to American history. It is, indeed, well enough known that General Grant is net a Catholic; but it is equally well known that he is superior to all narrow and illiberal pre- judices against members of that communion. His two most intimate friends in the army are General Sherman and Lieutenant-General Sheridan, both Catholics. He did all in his power to advance the interests of these distinguished soldiers before he became President, and after his accession he promoted them to the two highest positions in the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 153 American army. His zealous friendship was not founded on their religion, but their personal qualities; but their Catholic connection never abated in the least his generous care of their interests. In civil affairs his freedom from religious bigotry has been equally genuine, though less con- spicuous. He appointed Mr. Thomas Murphy Collector of the Port of New York, one of the most important and responsible positions in the civil service, and both in office and out of office Mr. Murphy was treated by him as an intimate personal friend and favorite. " We suppose the Cork orators must have heard of President- Grant's Des Moines speech, in which he declared himself in favor of anti-sectarian free schools. But many American Catholics are supporters of our common school system. The ablest and most distinguished Catholic now in public life in this country, Senator Kernan, has always been a steady friend of our common schools. He was for many years the most efficient member of the School Board of Utica, the city of his residence. The Town Council of Cork has acted on a misconception, and its members have reason to be heartily ashamed of their ignorance, as well as of their illiberality and discourtesy." This action of the city of Cork produced a profound sensation throughout Ireland, the people looking at it as a violation of the rites of hospitality. General Grant smiled when told of the action of the Cork Councilmen, and said he was sorry the Cork people knew so little of American history. The respectable liberals and conservatives of the city and county of Cork were indignant at the action of the clique in the Council who insulted ex-President Grant. An ex-Mayor of the city said: " The obstructionists who op- posed a cead ?nille failthe to General Grant are not worth a decent man rubbing up against. It is a pity that the General has determined to return to Paris instead of visit- m GENERAL U. S. GRANT ing Cork, where he would have received such an ovation from the self-respecting populace as would prove that the Irish heart beats in sympathy with America." General Grant quietly left Dublin on Monday morning, January 6, Lord Mayor Barrington taking leave of him at. the railway station. The morning was cold, and, as the train progressed northward, ice, snow, cold winds and finally rain were encountered. At Dundalk, Omagh, Stra- bane and other stations, large crowds were assembled and the people cheered the ex-President, putting their hands into the cars and shaking hands with him whenever pos- sible. The expressions of ill-feeling toward General Grant in Cork had aroused the Protestant sentiments of the Irish people of Ulster in his favor. At two o'clock the train reached Derry. A heavy rain had covered the ground with ice, rendering the view of the city and surroundings most charming, as seen through the mists and gossamer of falling snow. At the station an im- mense crowd, apparently the whole town and neighbor- hood, had assembled. The multitude was held in check by the police. The Mayor welcomed General Grant cordially, and he left the station amid great cheering, mingled with groans from the nationalist members of the crowd, who called out, " Why did n't ye receive O'Connor Power ?" The great majority of the crowd cheered madly, and fol- lowed General Grant's carriage to the hotel. The ships in the harbor were decorated with flags and streamers, and the town was en fete. A remarkably cold, driving rain set in at three o'clock, just as General Grant and his party drove in state to the ancient town hall. The crowd was so dense near the hall that progress through it was made with great difficulty. At the entrance of the building the Mayor and Council, in their robes of office, received the ex-President. Amid many expressions of enthusiasm from the people of Londonderry, an address was read extolling TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. »55 the military and civil career of General Grant, which was pronounced second in honor only to that of Washington. General Grant signed the roll, thus making himself an Ulster Irishman. He then made a brief address. He said that no incident of his trip was more pleasant than accept- ing citizenship at the hands of the representatives of this ancient and honored city, with whose history the people of America were so familiar. He regretted that his stay in Ireland would be so brief. He had originally intended embarking from Queenstown direct for the United States, in which case he would have remained a much longer time on the snug little island ; but, having resolved to visit India, he was compelled to make his stay short. He could not, however, he said in conclusion, return home without seeing Ireland and a people in whose welfare the people of the United States took so deep an interest. The ex-President returned to his hotel, making a short visit at the house of Consul Livermore en route. A banquet was tendered to the General, at which he was present. The leading citizens of the province of Ulster attended, and the dinner was remarkably good. The reception of the ex-President was enthusiastic and cor- dial in the extreme. General Grant, in response to a toast, made a brief speech, saying that he should have felt that his tour in Europe was incomplete had he not seen the ancient and illustrious city of Londonderry, whose history was so well known throughout America. Indeed, the people of Derry, and all about there, had had a remarkable influence upon the development of American character. He cordially welcomed to the United States all the Irish- men who chose to make their homes there, and this was a welcome shared by the American people. Minister Noyes made a speech of the same general tenor, and at eleven o'clock the company separated. The following morning General Grant strolled about ? I56 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S looking at the historic walls, visiting Walker's Pillar, Roar- ing Meg, and the other curiosities of the town. The Gen- eral's treatment by the people of Londonderry during his stay was unusually cordial. General Grant's tour in Ulster was, in some respects, the most remarkable of his European experiences. People resented the action of the city of Cork as a slander upon Irish hospitality. General Grant left Deny on the yth, accompanied by Sir Hervey Bruce, Lieutenant of the county, Mr. Taylor, M. P. for Coleraine, and other local magnates. A cold rain and mists, coming from the Northern Ocean, obscured the wonderful view of the Northern Irish coast. The General studied the country closely, remarking on the sparseness of the population, and saying he could see no evidence of the presence of seven millions of people in Ireland. At every station there were crowds assembled, and, when the cars stopped, the people rushed forward to shake hands with the General. Some were old soldiers who had been in the American army. One remarked that Grant had captured him at Paducah. Another asked Gen- eral Grant to give him a shilling in remembrance of old times. The people were all kindly, cheering for Grant and America. At Coleraine there was an immense crowd. General Grant, accompanied by the Member of Par- liament, Mr. Taylor, left the cars, entered the waiting-room at the depot, and received an address. In reply, General Grant repeated the hope and belief, expressed in his Dublin speech, that the period of depression was ended, and that American prosperity was aiding Irish prosperity. At Ballymoney there was another crowd. As the train neared Belfast, a heavy rain began to fall. The train reached Belfast station at half-past two o'clock. The reception accorded General Grant was im- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 157 posing and extraordinary. The linen and other mills had stopped work, and the workmen stood out in the rain in thousands. The platform of the station was covered with scarlet carpet. The Mayor and Members of the City- Council welcomed the General, who descended from the car amid tremendous cheers. Crowds ran after the car- riages containing the city authorities and their illustrious guest, and afterward surrounded the hotel where the Gen- eral was entertained. Belfast was en fete. The public buildings were draped with American and English colors, and in a few instances with orange flags. Luncheon was served at four o'clock, and the crowd, with undaunted valor, remained outside amid a heavy snow storm, and cheered at intervals. The feature of the luncheon was the presence of the Roman Catholic Bishop of the diocese, who was given the post of honor. The luncheon party numbered one hundred and seventy — the Mayor said he could have had five thousand. The Belfast speakers made cordial allusions to many people in America, and were anxious to have Grant de- clare himself in favor of free trade, but the General in his reply made no allusions to the subject, to the disappoint- ment of many of those present. Minister Noyes made a hit in his speech when he said that General Grant showed his appreciation of Belfast men by appointing A. T. Stew- art, of Belfast, Secretary of the Treasury, and offering George H. Stuart, a Belfast boy, the portfolio of Secretary of the Navy. After the luncheon was over, General Grant remained quietly in his apartments, receiving many calls, some from old soldiers who served under him during the war. At ten o'clock on the morning of January 9, General Grant and his party, accompanied by Mayor Brown, vis- ited several of the large mills and industrial establishments of the city. Before he left the hotel he was waited on by I5S GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S a number of the leading citizens and several clergymen. Bishop Ryan, the Catholic Bishop of Buffalo, and Mr. Cronin, editor of the Catholic Union, were among the callers, and had a pleasant interview. The General then drove to the warehouses of several merchants in the linen trade, to the factories and shipyards. At the immense ship- yard where the White Star steamers were built, the work- men, numbering two thousand, gathered around Grant's carriage and cheered as they ran alongside. The public buildings and many of the shops were decorated. The weather was clear and cold. At three o'clock in the afternoon the General left for Dublin. Immense crowds had gathered at the hotel and at the railway station. The Mayor, with Sir John Pres- ton and the American Consul, James M. Donnan, accom- panied the General to the depot. As the train moved off the crowd gave tremendous cheers, the Mayor taking the initiative. One Irishman in an advanced stage of enthusi- asm called out: "Three cheers for Oliver Cromwell Grant!" To this there was only a faint response. At Portadown, Dundalk, Drogheda and other stations, there were immense crowds, the populations apparently turning out en masse. Grant was loudly cheered, and thousands surrounded the car with the hope of being able to shake the General by the hand, all wishing him a safe journey. One little girl created considerable merriment by asking the General to give her love to her aunt in America. All the Belfast journals, in more or less acri- monious terms, denounced the action of the Council of Cork. At Dundalk, the brother of Robert Nugent, who was Lieutenant-Colonel of the Sixty-ninth New York Regi- ment in 1861, and afterward commander of a brigade in the Second Corps, Army of the Potomac, said he was glad to welcome his brother's old commander. The Belfast limited mail train, conveying General TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 159 Grant, arrived at Dublin fourteen minutes behind time on the 8th. Lord Mayor Barrington and a considerable num- ber of persons were on the platform at the railway station, and cordially welcomed the General. As soon as all the party had descended, the Lord Mayor invited the General into his carriage and drove him to Westward Row, where the Irish mail train was ready to depart, having been de- tained eight minutes for the ex-President. There was a most cordial farewell and a great shaking of hands. The Mayor and his friends begged General Grant to return soon and make a longer stay. Soon Kingston was reached, and in a few minutes the party were in the special cabin which had been provided for them on board the mail steamer. Special attention was paid to the General by the officers of the vessel. General Grant left the Irish shores at twenty minutes past seven o'clock. When the steamer was about to start, the Inspector of Detectives inquired minutely concerning each member of the General's party then on board, apparently to satisfy him- self that they were exactly the same gentlemen who landed here five days before, and that none who came were disguised Fenian emissaries masquerading as American generals, and who had remained behind while allowing some of their ac- complices to get away under the same disguise. In his reception at Belfast was shown, down to the very moment of his departure, an exuberant enthusiasm of welcome, that is, perhaps, justly understood as owing some part of its warmth to a desire to protest against the Cork- onian blunder. His welcome at Dublin by the Lord Mayor was another pleasant tribute of good will ; while the un- easiness of the police inspector, eager to know whether this descent of a foreign soldier on Irish soil was not, after all, some Fenian project in disguise, was characteristic, laughable, and perhaps the best a policeman could do in the way of a compliment. General Grant's visit to Ireland was l6o GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S ended ; and it may be fairly said of it that a public man, from a far distant country, without official character, known to the world for his military glory and for services that saved a great republic from anarchy, was never more geni- ally, warmly, earnestly and enthusiastically made to feel that heroism, and, above all, heroism in the cause of lib- erty, has no country, but is equally at home in any part of the world, where there is a people with a soul to appreciate great services and the aspiration to be free. An event like General Grant's welcome in Ireland does not happen in the lives of many men. Our own welcome to Lafayette on his revisiting this country might be compared to it, but that we were under the obligation of a people in whose own cause that soldier fought; and the Irish welcome to General Grant was, therefore, even more generous, for there was not even the obligation of gratitude in it. As for the little fly spot put on this fine picture by the Corkoni- ans, why, it may be admitted that even an Irish city can produce some pitiful fellows, who want to become distinguished for their very meanness, if they have no worthier qualities. Some sharp- sighted democrats have seen in this visit to Ireland a strategic move on the Irish vote, should the General ever enter public life again. It is one of the misfortunes that dog public men in a country like ours, that every act of their lives has to be judged from the standpoint of those who contemplate it in the light of the ignoble hunt for votes. Some ground is given by what opponents of General Grant say to the opinion that they have stirred up this Corkonian trouble to head off this hunt. If this be true, they must have been inspired under the influence of Grant's lucky star, for they have done him a service for which he could not have counted upon them, except under the general principle that a great part of every distinguished man's good fortune is due to blunders of his adversaries. CHAPTER XIV. GRANT IN INDIA. General Grant again visited London, where a grand dinner and reception was given him by our Minister to England, Mr. Welsh, which was largely attended by the elite of London, and American residents. At every station en route the greatest enthusiasm was manifested. The General left the next day for Paris, where he was the recipient of a grand dinner at the United States Legation on January 14, and a grand state dinner and reception at the Palais d' Ely see, the residence of President Mac- Mahon. Among the invited guests were General Grant and family, M. Waddington and wife, General Noyes and wife, Miss King, Miss Stevens, the members of the Chinese Embassy, the representatives of San Salvador, Buenos Ayres, Chili, Guatemala, Peru, Colombia and Uruguay, and many French generals and admirals. The General left Paris for Marseilles on the evening of January 21. The party accompanying him consisted of Mrs. Grant, Colonel Fred. Grant, ex-Secretary of the Navy A. E. Borie, Dr. Keating, and the Herald correspondent, who made the whole trip to India. General Badeau went as far as Marseilles. Generals Noyes and Fairchild, Secre- taries Hill, Itgneau, and a large number of Americans, went to the station to see the party off. The train left at a quar- ter past seven o'clock, and arrived at Marseilles the follow- ing morning at eleven o'clock. Consul John B. Gould 11 l62 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S received them at the railway station. An afternoon recep- tion was held at the Consulate, where General Grant met the leading citizens of Marseilles. At noon the party embarked on the French steamship Labourdonais for India, via Suez. The party embraced Getieral and Mrs. Grant, ex-Secretary Borie, Lieutenant-Colonel Frederick D. Grant, Dr. Keating, of Philadelphia, and the Herald cor- respondent. General Badeau, Consul Gould, J. B. Lippincott, of Philadelphia, John Munroe, the banker, and many other citizens, took leave of General and Mrs. Grant. The day was cold and the sky was filled with masses of gray cloud. The people of Marseilles evinced great interest in the General's departure. The ships in the harbor were dressed with flags and streamers. General Grant and his party were in the best of health and spirits. The steamer moved out of the harbor shortly after twelve o'clock, and the land journey of General Grant in Europe closed amid the kindest manifestations of his countrymen at Marseilles and the French citizens of that great Mediterranean port. Marshal MacMahon had sent orders to the French admirals on foreign stations and to the governors of French colonies to treat ex-President Grant with all the honors due to the head of an independ- ent State. The first hours on the Mediterranean were on a high sea, but on second the day the sea went down and charming yachting weather was enjoyed. On Friday, January 24, the steamer passed between Corsica and Sardina, having a a fine view of the dusky coasts of the former island. On the 25th, about noon, Ischia was sighted, and through the hazy atmosphere faint outlines of Vesuvius could be traced. Ischia is a beautiful island, dotted with smiling villages, and presenting an inviting appearance. Passing the island, Capri was left to the right, and the vessel sailed into the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 163 beautiful Bay of Naples. The King's palace, the convent, the range of hills and the towering landscape remained un- changed, and at once recognized, though a year had nearly passed since the General's first visit. As soon as the anchor was dropped, Mr. Maynard, our Minister to Turkey, and Mr. Duncan, our Consul at Naples, came on board, and a delightful hour was passed. In the afternoon the Labour- donais steamed out to sea. On the morning of the 26th Stromboli was in sight. The General and party, owing to the stormy weather, were unable to see this famed island upon the previous voyage over this same route, but they were now sailing under the shadow of this ancient island. The volcano was throwing out ashes and smoke in a feeble, fretful manner. At the base of this volcano is a cluster of houses or a village. What reason any human being can give for remaining in Stromboli is beyond the knowledge of man. They are at the absolute mercy of the sea and the furnace, and far away from neighbors and refuge and rescue. It must be to gratify some poetic in- stinct, for Stromboli is poetic enough. With every turn of the screw our visitors were coming into the land of classic and religious fame; these islands through which they were sailing are the islands visited by the wandering Ulysses. Rcggio was passed, which in ancient days was called Rhegiuin. It was here that St. Paul landed, after Syracuse and Malta adventures, carrying with him the message of Christ, going from this spot to preach the gospel to all mankind. Leaving Etna to the left, they sailed through Messina Straits, the sea scarcely rippling, and were soon again in the open sea, the land fading from view. On the second morning Crete was passed, the snow upon her mountain ranges being plainly visible from the decks of the steamer. At noon Crete faded from their sight, and a last farewell to Europe was uttered — farewell 164 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S to many a bright and happy hour spent on its shores, of which all that remains is the memory. On the evening of the 29th of January — it being the evening of the seventh day of their journey from Mar- seilles — they came to anchor outside of the harbor of Alexandria. There was some disappointment that the steamer did not enter that evening, but they were an hour or so late, and so they swung at anchor and found what conso- lation they could in the enrapturing glory of an Egyptian night. In the morning when the sun arose, the steamer picked her way into the harbor, and when our visitors came on deck they found themselves at anchor, with Alex- andria before them, her minarets looking almost gay in the fresh light of the morning sun. A boat came out about eight, bringing General C. P. Stone, Mr. Farman, our Consul-General, Mr. Salvago, our Consul in Alexandria, and Judge Morgan of the International Tribunal. Gen- eral Stone came with kind messages from the Khedive, and the hope that General Grant might be able to come to Cairo. But this was not possible, as he had to connect with the English steamer at Suez, and Suez was a long day's journey. So all that was left was that they should pull ashore as rapidly as possible and drive to the train. The Consul-General, with prudent foresight, had arranged that the train should wait for the General, and thus it came that the General's ride through Egypt, from Alexandria to Suez, was during the day, and not, as otherwise would have happened, during the long and weary night. It must have been pleasant to General Grant to land in a quiet, unostentatious fashion, without pomp and ceremony and pachas in waiting and troops in line, the blaze of trum- pets and the thunder of guns. The escape from a salute and a reception was a great comfort to the General, who seemed to enjoy having no one's hands to shake, to enjoy a snug corner in an ordinary railway car, talking with Gen- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 165 eral Stone and Mr. Borie and the Consul-General. The train waited half an hour for the General and party, and would have been detained longer but for the energy and genius shown by Hassan — the General's old friend Hassan — who accompanied him on the Nile. Hassan, as the official guard of the Legation, wearing a sword, was an authority in Egypt, and he used his authority to the utmost in having the traps and parcels carried from the wharf to the train. The ride to Suez was without inci- dent, and Egypt, as seen from the car windows, was the same Egypt about which so much has been written. The fields were green, the air was clear and generous, the train people were civil. When Arabs gathered at the doors to call for backsheesh in the name of the prophet Hassan made himself, not without noise and effect, a beneficent influence. The General chatted with Stone about school times at West Point, about friends. Mr. Borie made vari- ous attempts to see the Pyramids from the cars, and talked over excursions that some of the party had made, and so much interested was he that the party offered to remain over one steamer to enable him to visit the Pyramids, and the Sphinx, and the Serapeum at Memphis. But General Grant was too late for India, and Mr. Borie would not con- sent to the sacrifice of valuable time on the General's part, and so they kept on to Suez. The hotel at Suez was formerly a harem of the Egyptian princes. From the balcony one can look out on the Red Sea, on the narrow line of water which has changed the commerce of the world — the Suez canal Suez is a small, clean town — clean from an Oriental stand- point. As the steamer that was to convey General Grant and party to India had not arrived, but was blocked in the canal, the visitors had a fine opportunity to visit the bazaars and town. About five in the afternoon the boat was sighted, and, as the sun went down, General Grant went on board the l66 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S steamer, Mr. Farman and General Stone remaining until the last moment, to say farewell. At eight o'clock on the evening of January 30, the steamer Venetia, of the Penin- sular and Oriental Steamship Company's line, moved out into the Red Sea, and the last words of farewell were spoken. Owing to heavy head winds, the Venetia did not make much headway, losing nearly two days. At the mouth of the Red Sea is Aden, a town with a population of over twenty thousand inhabitants. It juts into the mouth of the Red Sea, commanding the entrance. It was taken by the British in 1838, as a part of the English policy of dotting the world with guns and garrisons. There is a garrison, and the forts are manned with heavy guns. The government is martial law, tempered with bribery. The British pay the native chiefs annual tribute money to behave themselves. Aden is a sort of gateway to the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean, and the regulations of the British government in reference to commerce are stringent, and would scarcely be tolerated on the coasts of a stronger power than Arabia. Every vessel carrying more than a certain number of passengers must stop at Aden. The nominal reason is to obtain a clean bill of health. The real reason is, that it enables the government to keep a close scrutiny upon all that is doing in the Indian waters. It also adds to the revenues of Aden, for every vessel that stops sends money on shore, and thus the fort, while secur- ing a most important position, while commanding the Red Sea and making it almost a British lake, supports itself. It is observed in studying the growth of the British Em- pire, that the self-supporting principle is always encour- aged. The British give good government and make the governed ones pay the bills, with a little over for home revenues when possible. Remaining at Aden only long enough to coal, on the morning of February 6 the steamer headed for Bombay. The trip was a delightful one, the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 167 steamer scarcely rolling. On the morning of February 13 Bombay was reached. The departure from Europe had been so sudden that General Grant had no idea that even our Consul at Bom- bay knew of his coming. All arrangements were made to go to a hotel, and from thence make their journey ; but the Venetia had scarcely entered the harbor before evidences were seen that the General was expected. Ships in the harbor were dressed with flags, and at the wharf was a large crowd — soldiers, natives, Europeans. As the En- glish flag-ship was passed, a boat came alongside with an officer representing Admiral Corbett, welcoming the Gen- eral to India. In a few minutes came another boat bearing Captain Frith, the military aid to Sir Richard Temple, Governor of the Presidency of Bombay. Captain Frith bore a letter from the Governor welcoming the General to Bombay, and offering him the use of the Government House at Malabar Point. Captain Frith expressed the regret of Sir Richard that he could not be in Bombay to meet General Grant, but duties connected with the Afghan war kept him in Sind. The Consul, Mr. Farnham, also came with a delegation of American residents, and wel- comed the General and party. At nine o'clock in the morning the last farewells were spoken. They took leave of the many kind and pleasant friends they had made on the Venetia, and went on board the government yacht. The landing was at the Apollo Bunder — the spot where the Prince of Wales landed. As they drew near the shore there was an immense crowd lining the wharf, and a company of Bombay volunteers in line. As the General ascended the steps he was met by Brigadier-General Aitcheson, commanding the forces; Sir Francis Souter, Commissioner of Police; Mr. Grant, the Municipal Commissioner, and Colonel Sexton, command- ing the Bombay Volunteers, all of whom gave him a l68 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S hearty welcome to India. The volunteers presented arms, the band played our national air, and the General, amid loud cheers from the Europeans present, walked slowly with uncovered head to the state carriage. Accompanied by Captain Frith, who represented the Governor, and at- tended by an escort of native cavalry, the General and party made off to Malabar Point. The General's home in Bombay was at the Govern- ment House, on Malabar Point, in the suburbs of the city. Malabar Point was in other days a holy place of the Hin- doos. Here was a temple, and it was also believed that if those who sinned made a pilgrimage to the rocks there would be expiation or regeneration of the soul. The Por- tuguese who came to India were breakers of images, who believed that the religion of Christ was best served by the destruction of the Pagan temples. Among the temples which were subjected to their pious zeal was one on Mala- bar Point. There are only the ruins remaining, and masses of rock, bearing curious inscriptions, lie on the hillside. Malabar Point is an edge of the island of Bombay jutting out into the Indian Ocean. Where the bluff overlooks the waters it is one hundred feet high. This remnant of the rock has been rescued from the sea and storm and decorated with trees and shrubbery, the mango and the palm. Over- looking the sea is a battery with five large guns, shining and black, looking out upon the ocean and keeping watch over the Empire of England. It is difficult to describe a residence like Government House on Malabar Point. Ar- chitecture is simply a battle with the sun. The house is a group of houses. As you drive in the grounds through stone gates that remind you of the porter's lodges at some stately English mansions, you pass through an avenue of mango trees, past beds of flowers throwing out their deli- cate fragrance on the warm morning air. You come to a one-storied house surrounded with spacious verandas. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 169 There is a wide state entrance covered with red cloth. A guard is at the foot, a native guard wearing the English scarlet, on his shoulders the number indicating the regi- ment. You pass up the stairs, a line of servants on either side. The servants are all Mohammedans; they wear long scarlet gowns, with white turbans; on the breast is a belt with an imperial crown for an escutcheon. They salute you with the grave, submissive grace of the East, touching the forehead and bending low the head, in token of wel- come and duty. You enter a hall and pass between two rooms — large, high, decorated in blue and white, and look out upon the gardens below, the sea beyond and the towers of Bombay. One of these rooms is the state dining-room, large enough to dine fifty people. The other is the state drawing-room. This house is only used for ceremonies, for meals and receptions. General Grant was the guest of the Governor, and the honors of his house were done by Captains Frith and Rad- clifF of the army. Meals were taken in the state dining- room. Mrs. Grant enjoyed every moment of her visit. The attentions paid to the General and his party by the people of Bombay were so marked and continuous that most of their time was taken up in receiving and acknowl- ing them. What most interested them, coming fresh from Europe, was the entire novelty of the scene, the way of living, the strange manners and customs. All impressions of India, gathered from the scattered reading of busy days at home, are vague. Somehow one associates India with ideas of pageanty. The history of the country has been written in such glowing colors — one who has read Oriental poems, and fallen under the captivating rhetoric of Mac- aulay, looks for nature in a luxuriant form, for splendor and ornament, for bazaars laden with gems and gold, for crowded highways, with elephants slowly plodding their way along. 170 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS Therefore, when India is seen — India as seen in this her greatest city — one is surprised to find it all so hard and baked and brown. The greenness of field and hillside is missed. A people who have nothing in common with any race known. There are so many types, curious and varying, that impressions are bewildering and indefinite. In time, as the country is known and understood, it will be seen that this civilization has lines of harmony like that left behind; that there are reasons for all the odd things, just as there are reasons for many odd things in America; and that Indian civilization even now — when its glory has departed, its mightiest States are mere appendages of the British Empire, when day after day it bends and crumbles under the stern hand and cold brain of the Saxon — is rich in the lessons and qualities which have for ages excited the am- bition and wonder of the world. On Friday night, General Grant visited the ball of the Volunteer Corps, and was received by Colonel Sexton. The ballroom was profusely decorated with flags — the American flag predominating. On Saturday, at two o'clock, he visited Dossabhoy Merwanjee, a Parsee mer- chant. The reception was most cordial, the ladies of the family decorating the General and party with wreaths of jasmine flowers. In the afternoon he drove to the By- culla Club, lunched, and looked at the races. In the eve- ning there was a state dinner at the Government House, with forty-eight guests. The government band played during dinner. The member of council, Hon. James Gibbs, who represents the Governor, was in the chair. At the close of the dinner, he proposed the health of the Gen- eral, who arose, amid loud cheering, and said that he was now carrying out a wish he had long entertained, of visit- ing India and the countries of the ancient world. His reception in Bombay had been most gratifying. The cor- diality of the people, the princely hospitality of the Gov- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 171 ernor, the kindness of the members of the household, all combined to make him feel the sincerity of the welcome. It was only a continuance of the friendliness he had met in Europe, and which was especially grateful to him because it indicated a friendly feeling toward his own coun- try. In this spirit he accepted it, for he knew of nothing that would go further toward insuring peace to all nations, and with peace the blessings of civilization, than a perfect understanding between Englishmen and Americans, the gi'eat English-speaking nations of the world. The Gen- eral said he hoped he might see his hosts in America. He would be most happy to meet them, and return the hospi- tality he had received. He was sorry he could not see Sir Richard Temple, the Governor of Bombay, of whom he had heard a great deal and whom he was anxious to meet. But he would ask them to join with him in drinking the health of the Governor. This sentiment was drank with all the honors. The dinner was finely served, and after dinner the General and guests strolled about on the veranda, smoking or chatting, looking out on the calm and murmur- ing ocean that rolled at their feet, and the lights of the city beyond. There was a luncheon with Sir Michael R. Wes- tropp, Chief Justice of Bombay. Subsequently General Grant visited the English man- of-war Euryolus, the flagship of the English squadron in India. Admiral Corbett received the General, and on his leaving the vessel fired twenty-one guns. There was a visit to the Elephanta caves, one of the sights in India. The visitors left the wharf, and steamed across the bay in a small launch belonging to the government. The after- noon was beautiful, the islands in the bay breaking up the horizon into various forms of beauty, that resembled the islands of the Mediterranean. Elephanta caves belong to Hindoo theology. Here in the rocks the Brahmins built their temples, and now on the holy days the people come I72 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS and worship their gods according to the ritual of their ancestors. What the temple might have been in its best days cannot be imagined from the ruins. Having reached the temples, they strolled about, study- ing the figures, noting the columns and the curious archi- tecture, full, rude, massive, unlike any forms of architectural art familiar to Americans. The main temple is one hun- dred and twenty-five feet long, and the same in width. The idols arc hewn out of the rock. The faces of some are comely, and there is a European expression in the fea- tures that startles you. The type is a higher one than those seen in Egypt. One of the idols, supposed to be the Hindoo Trinity — Brahmin, Vishnu and Siva. There is a figure of a woman — the wife of Siva — and it is seen in these pagan faiths that woman, who holds so sad a place in their domestic economy, was worshiped as fervently as some of us worship the Virgin. It is the tribute which even the heathen pays, as if by instinct, to the supreme blessing of maternity. But when the Portuguese came, with the sword and the cross, little mercy was shown to the homes, of the pagan gods. It is believed that these tem- ples were cut out of the rocks in the tenth century, and that for eight hundred years these stony emblems were worshiped. On Monday the General was entertained in state at the Government House at Malabar Point. Hon. James Gibbs, the member of the council who acted as Governor in the absence of Sir Richard Temple, presided, and at the close of the dinner the company drank the health of the General. In response the General referred to the kindness he had received in India, which was only renewing the kindness shown him all over Europe, and which he accepted as an evidence of the good will which really existed between Englishmen and Americans, and which was to his mind the best assurance of peace for all nations. After the din- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. x 73 ner the General received a large number of the native merchants and gentlemen of Bombay. It may seem odd to American eyes that merchants and gentlemen should be asked to come in at the end of a feast, and not to take part. But this exclusion is their own wish. Many of these merchants and gentlemen belong to castes who look on the food of the Europeans as unclean, who believe in the sacredness of life and will not eat animal food, and who could not sit at the table with the General without losing caste. These men will meet you in business, will serve you in various ways, but their religion prevents their sharing your table. So the invitation to the natives to meet the General was fixed at an hour when dinner was over. They came in groups — Hindoos, Arabs, Parsees, native officers — in uniforms, in quaint flowing costumes. The General stood at the head of the hallway, with Mr. Gibbs and Major Rivet-Carnac, the Governor's military secre- tary. As each native advanced, he was presented to the General with some word of history or compliment from Mr. Gibbs. " This is So-and-So, an eminent Brahmin scholar, who stands high among our barristers;" or, "this is So-and-So, a Parsee merchant, who has done a great deal of good to Bombay, and has been knighted for his services by the* Queen;" or, "this is the oldest Arab merchant;" or, "this is a gallant officer of our native cavalry;" or, "this is the leading diamond merchant in Bombay, a Hindoo gentleman, one of the richest in India." As each of them advanced, it was with folded hands, as in prayer, or saluting by touching the breast and brow in the submissive, graceful, bending way. Here were men of many races — the Parsee, from Persia, the Arab, from Cairo, whose ancestors may have ridden with Omar; the Brahmin of a holy caste, in whose veins runs the stainless blood of Indian nobility, descendant of 174 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S men who were priests and rulers ages before England had risen from her clouds of barbarism. Between these races there is no love. If they do not like England, they hate one another. Religious differences, tradition, memories of war and conquest, the unaccountable antipathies of race which have not been eliminated from their civilization — all generate a fierce animosity which would break into flames once the restraining hand were lifted. What welds them together is the power of England; and as you look at this picturesque group — their heads, full eyes, their fine Asiatic type of face, clear and well cut — here assembled peacefully, you see the extent of the empire to which they all owe allegiance, and admire the genius and courage which has brought them to submit to a rule which, what- ever it may have been in the past, grows more and more beneficent. The General left Bombay on Tuesday, February iS, having driven into town and made some farewell calls. At five he left Government House in a state carriage, accompanied by Major Carnac, who represented Governor Temple, and escorted by a squadron of cavalry. On arriv- ing at the station there was a guard of honor of native infantry drawn up, which presented arms and lowered colors. All the leading men of the Bombay Government — Parsee and native merchants; our Consul, Mr. Farnham, whose kindness was untiring; Mr. Gibbs, and all the mem- bers of the government household, were present. In a few minutes the signal for leaving was made, and, the General thanking his good friends of Malabar Point, the train pushed off amid cheers and the salutes of the mili- tary. On the 20th of February the party arrived at Tatul- pur, and visited the Marble Rocks, on the Norbudda River, riding there on elephants provided by the govern- ment. TOUR AROUN'D THE WORLD. 1 75 The General arrived at Allahabad on the 22d of Feb- ruary, where he was received by Sir George Cowper, Lieutenant-Governor of the Northwest Provinces, and was escorted to the Government House. The General arrived at Agra on the 23d, and on the following day he visited Jeypore, where he was received by the Maharajah with his ministers, and the English Resident, Dr. Hendlcy. As the General descended, the Maharajah, who wore the ribbon and star of the Order of India, advanced and shook hands, welcoming him to his dominions. The Maharajah is a small, rather fragile per- son, with a serious, almost a painful, expression of counten- ance, but an intelligent, keen face. He looked like a man of sixty. His movements were slow, impassive — the move- ments of old age. This may be a mannerism, however, for on studying his face you could see that there is some youth in it. On his brow were the crimson emblems of his caste — the warrior caste of Rajpootana. His Highness does not speak English, although he understands it, and our talk was through an interpreter. After the exchange of courtesies and a few moments' conversation, the General drove off to the English Residencv, accompanied by a com- pany of Jeypore cavalry. The Residency is some distance from the station. It is a fine, large mansion, surrounded by a park and garden. It was arranged that the General should visit Amber, the ancient capital of Jeypore, one of the most curious sights in India. Amber was the capital until the close of the seventeenth century. It was one of the freaks of the princes who once reigned in India, that when they tired of a capital or a palace, they wandered off and built a new one, leaving the other to run to waste. The ruins of India are as a general thing the abandoned palaces and temples of kings who grew weary of their toy and craved another. This is why Amber is now an abandoned town and Jeypore I76 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S the capital. If the Maharajah were to tire of Jeypore and return to Amber, the town would accompany him, for without the Court the town would die. Traveling in India must be done very early in the morning, and, although the visitors had had a severe day's journey, they left for Amber at seven in the morning. A squadron of the Maharajah's cavalry accompanied them. They are fine horsemen, and wear quilted uniforms of printed cotton. The drive through Jeypore was interesting, from the fact that they were now in a native city, under native rule. Heretofore the India they had seen was India under Englishmen; but Jeypore is sovereign, with power of life and death over its own subjects. The city is purely Oriental, and is most picturesque and striking. There are two or three broad streets, and one or two squares, that would do no discredit to Paris. The architecture is Oriental, and, as all the houses are painted after the same pattern, in rose color, it gives you the impression that it is all the same building. The streets had been swept for the coming of the visitors, and men, carrying goatskins of water, were sprinkling them. Soldiers were stationed at various points to salute, and sometimes the salute was accompanied with a musical bang- ing on various instruments of the national air. The best that India can do for a distinguished Amei-ican, is "God Save the Queen." There are gas lamps in Jeypore; this is a tremendous advance in civilization. One of the first things General Grant heard in India, was that in Jeypore lived a great prince, a most enlightened prince, quite English in his ideas, who had gas lamps in his streets. He had a theatre almost ready for occupancy; there was a troupe of Parsee players in town, who had come all the way from Bombay, and were waiting to open it. The Maharajah was sorry he could not show the General a play. To go to Amber, General Grant and party must ride TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I JJ elephants, for after a few miles the hills come, and the roads are broken, and carriages are of no value. Camels or horses could be used, but the Maharajah had sent elephants, and they were waiting for them under a grove of mango trees, drawn up by the side of the road, as if to salute. The principal elephant wore a scarlet cloth, as a special honor to the General. The elephant means authority in India, and, when you wish to do your guest the highest honor, you mount him on an elephant. The Maharajah also sent sedan chairs for those who preferred an easier and swifterVonvey- ance. Mrs. Grant chose the sedan chair, and was switched off at a rapid pace up the ascending road by four Hindoo bearers. The pace at which these chairs is carried is a short, measured quickstep, so that there is no uneasiness to the rider. The rest mounted the elephants. Elephant- riding is a curious and not an unpleasant experience. The animal is under perfect control, and very often, especially in the case of such a man as the ruler of Tevpore, has been for generations in the same family. Tne elephant is under the care of a driver, called a mahout. The mahout sits on the neck, or more properly the head, of the elephant, and guides him with a stick or sharp iron prong, with which he strikes the animal on the top of the head. Between the elephant and mahout there are relations of affection. The mahout lives with the elephant, gives him his food, and each animal has its own keeper. The huge creature be- comes in time as docile as a kitten, and will obey any order of the mahout. The elephant reaches a great age. It is not long since there died at Calcutta the elephant which carried Warren Hastings when Governor General of India, a century ago. There are two methods of riding elephants. One is in a box like the four seats of a carriage, the other on a square quilted seat, your feet hanging over the sides, something like an Irish jaunting car. The first plan is I70 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS good for hunting, but for comfort the second is the better. I%t a signal from the mahout the elephant slowly kneels. When the elephant rises, which he does two legs at a time, deliberately, the rider must hold on to the rail of the seat. Once on his feet, he swings along at a slow, wabbling pace. The motion is an easy one, like that of a boat in a light sea. In time, if going long distances, it becomes very tiresome. Arrived at Amber, the General found Mrs. Grant with her couriers, having arrived some time before, and had mounted to a window high up in the palace, and was waving her handkerchief. The visitors had reached the temple while worship was in progress. Dr. Hendley informed the General that he was in time to take part in the services and to see the priest offer up a kid. Every day in the year in this temple a kid is offered up as a propitiation for the sins of the Maharajah. The temple was little more than a room in the palace — a private chapel. At one end was a platform raised a few inch- es from the ground and covered oven On this platform were the images of the gods — of the special God. Whatever the god, the worship was in full progress, and there was the kid ready for sacrifice. Entering the enclosure, the visitors stood with uncovered heads; only some half a dozen worshipers were crouching on the ground. One of the attendants held the kid, while the priest was crouching over it, reading from the sacred books, and in a half humming, half whining chant blessing the sacrifice, and as he said each prayer putting some grain or spice or oil on its head. The poor animal licked the crumbs as they fell about it, quite unconscious of its holy fate. Another attendant took a sword and held it before the priest. He read some pray- ers over the sword and consecrated it. Then the kid was carried to the corner, where there was a small heap of sand or ashes and a gutter to carry away the blood. The priest TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 179 continued his prayers, the kid's head was suddenly drawn down and with one blow severed from the body. The virtue of the sacrifice consists in the head falling at the first blow, and so expert do the priests become that at some of the great sacrifices, where buffalo are offered up in expiation of the princely sins, they will take off the buffalo's head with one stroke of the sword. The kid, having performed the office of expiation, becomes useful for the priestly dinner. Of the palace of Amber the most one can say is that it is curious and interesting as the home of an Indian King in the days when India was ruled by her Kings, and a Hastings and a Clive had not come to rend and destroy. The Maharajah has not quite abandoned it. He comes some- times to the great feasts of the faith, and a few apartments are kept for him. His rooms were ornamented with look- ing-glass decorations, with carved marble which the artisan had fashioned into tracery so delicate that it looked like lacework. What strikes one in this Oriental decoration is its tendency to light, bright, lacelike gossamer work, showing infinite pains and patience in the doing, but without any special value as a real work of art. The general effect of these decorations is agreeable, but all is done for effect. There is no such honest, serious work as you see in the Gothic cathedrals, or even in the Alhambra. One is the expression of a facile, sprightly race, fond of the sunshine, delighting to repeat the caprice of nature in the curious and quaint; the other has a deep, earnest purpose. This is an imagination which sees its gods in every form — in stones and trees and beasts and creeping things, in the stars above, in the snake wriggling through the hedges — the other sees only one God, even the Lord God Jehovah, who made the heavens and the earth and will come to judge the world at the last day. As you wander through the courtyards and chambers of Amber, the fancy is amused by the charac- l8o GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S ter of all that surrounds you. There is no luxury. All these Kings wanted was air and sunshine. They slept on the floor. The chambers of their wives were little more than cells built in stone. Here are the walls that surround- ed their section of the palace. There are no windows looking into the outer world, only a thick stone wall pierced with holes slanting upward, so that if a curious spouse looked out she would see nothing lower than the stars. Amber is an immense palace, and could quite ac- commodate a rajah with a court of a thousand attendants. There were some beautiful views from the terrace. The General would like to have remained, but the elephants had been down to the water to lap themselves about, and were now returning refreshed to bear us back to Jeypore. The visitors had only given themselves a day for the town, and had to return the call of the Prince, which is a serious task in Eastern etiquette. Mr. Borie was much exhausted by his ride and the heat of the sun, and was prevailed upon to make the descent in a chair, as Mrs. Grant had done. Returning to Jeypore the same day, our party were very tired, and early sought rest. The following day, at Jeypore, the General visited the school of arts and industry, in which he was greatly inter- ested, one of his special subjects of inquiry being the indus- trial customs and resources of the country. This school is one of the Prince's favorite schemes, and the scholars showed aptness in their work. Jeypore excels in the manufacture of enameled jewelry; some of the specimens seen were exceedingly beautiful and costly. The Mint was visited, and here the workmen were seen beating the coin and stamping it. At the collection of tigers, a half dozen brutes were caged, each of whom had a history. There were man-eaters ; one enormous creature had killed twenty-five men before TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. l8l he was captured. Having passed the day in seeing the sights, the party returned to the Residency, and found a group of servants, from the palace, on the veranda, each carrying a tray laden with sweetmeats and nuts, oranges and fruit. This was an offering from the Prince, and it was necessary that the General should touch some of the fruit and taste it, and say how much he was indebted to His Highness for the remembrance; then the servants re- turned to the palace. The Maharajah sent word that he would receive Gen- eral Grant at five. The Maharajah is a pious prince, a de- votee, and almost an ascetic. He gives seven houi's a day to devotions. He partakes only of one meal. When he is through with his prayers he plays billiards. He is the hus- band of ten wives. His tenth wife was married to him a few weeks ago. The court gossip is that he did not want another wife, that nine were enough ; but in polygamous countries marriages are made to please families, to consoli- date alliances, to win friendships, very often to give a home to the widows or sisters of friends. The Maharajah was under some duress of this kind, and his bride was brought home, and is now with her sister brides behind the stone walls, killing time as she best can, while her lord prays and plays billiards. These wives live in cloistered seclusion. They are guarded by eunuchs, and even when ill are not allowed to look into the face of a physician, but put their hands through a screen. It was said in Jeypore that no face of a Rajput Princess was ever seen by a European. These prejudices are respected and protected by the Im- perial Government, which respects and protects every cus- tom in India so long as the States behave themselves and pay tribute. In their seclusion the princesses adorn them- selves, see the Nautch girls dance, and read romances. They are not much troubled by the Maharajah. That great prince, I hear, is tired of everything but his devotions lS2 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S and his billiards. He has no children, and is not supposed to have hopes of an heir. He will, as is the custom in these high families, adopt some prince of an auxiliary branch. The government of the kingdom is in the hands of a council, among whom are the Prime Minister and the prin- cipal brahmin. General Grant drove to the palace at four o'clock, and at once inspected the stables. There were some fine horses, and exhibitions of horsemanship which astonished even the General. He was shown the astronomical buildings of Jai Singh II., which were on a large scale and accurately graded. He climbed to the top of the palace, and had a fine view of Jeypore. The palace itself embraces one-sixth of the city, and there are ten thousand people within its walls — beg- gars, soldiers, priests, politicians, all manner of human beings — who live on the royal bounty. The town looked picturesque and cool in the shadows of the descending sun. At five precisely we entered the courtyard leading to the reception hall. The Maharajah came slowly down the steps, with a serious, preoccupied air, not as an old man, but as one who was too weary with a day's labors to make any effort, and shook hands with the General and Mrs. Grant. He accompanied the General to a seat of honor and sat down at his side. They all arranged themselves in the chairs. On the side of the General sat the mem- bers of his party ; on the side of the Maharajah the mem- bers of his Cabinet. Dr. Hendley acted as interpreter. The Prince said Jeypore was honored in seeing the face of the great American ruler, whose fame had reached Hindostan. The General said he had enjoyed his visit, that he was pleased and surprised with the prosperity of the people, and he should have felt he had lost a great deal if he had come to India and not seen Jeypore. The Maharajah expressed regret that the General made so short a stay. The General answered that he came to TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I S3 India late, and was rather pressed for time from the fact that he wished to see the Viceroy before he left Calcutta, and to that end had promised to be in Calcutta on March IO - His Highness then made a gesture, and a troop of dancing girls came into the court-yard. One of the features of a visit to Jeypore is what is called the Nautch. The Nautch is a sacred affair, danced by Hindoo girls of a low caste in the presence of the idols in the palace temple. A group of girls came trooping in, under the leadership of an old fellow with a long beard and a hard expression of face, who might have been the original of Dickens' Fagin. The girls wore heavy garments em- broidered, the skirts composed of many folds, covered with gold braid. They had ornaments on their heads and jewels in the side of the nose. They had plain faces, and carried out the theory of caste, if there be anything in such a theory, in the contrast between their features and the delicate, sharply-cut lines of the higher class Brahmins and the other castes who surrounded the Prince. The girls formed in two lines, a third line was composed of four musicians, who performed a low, growling kind of music on unearthly instruments. The dance had no value in it, either as an expression of harmony, grace or motion. The Nautch dance is meaningless. It is not even im- proper. It is attended by no excitement, no manifesta- tions of religious feeling. A group of course, ill-formed women stood in the lines, walked and twisted about, breaking now and then into a chorus, which added to the din of the instruments. This was the famous Nautch dance, which they were to see in Jeypore with amazement, and to remember as one of the sights of India. Either as an amusement or a religious ceremony it had no value. The General did not appreciate the dance, though he remained during its performance. Dr. Hendley, evidently 184 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S thinking that the dance had served every useful purpose, said a word to the Prince, who made a sign, the dance stopped, the girls vanished, and the whole party retired to the billiard room. • The Maharajah plays billiards when he is not at prayers. He was anxious to have a game with the General. The General played in an indiscriminate, promiscuous manner, and made some wonderful shots in the way of missing balls he intended to strike. Mr. Bone, whose , interest in the General's fortunes extends to billiards, began to deplore those eccentric experiments, when the General said he had not played billiards for thirty years. The Maharajah tried to lose the game, and said to one of his attendants that he was anxious to show the General that delicate mark of hos- pitality. The game ended, His Highness winning. Then they strolled into the gardens, and looked at the palace towers, which the Prince took pleasure in showing to the General, and which looked airy and beautiful in the rosy shadows of the descending sun. There were beds of flowers and trees, and the coming night, which comes so swiftly in these latitudes, brought a cooling breeze. Then His Highness gave each a photograph of his royal person, consecrated with his royal autograph, which he wrote on the top of a marble railing. Then they strolled toward the grand hall of ceremony to take leave. Taking leave is a solemn act in India. The party entered the spacious hall, where the Prince received the Prince of Wales. Night had come so rapidly, that servants came in all directions carrying candles and torches that lit up the gaudy and glit- tering hall. An attendant carried a tray bearing wreaths of the rose and jasmine. The Maharajah, taking two of these wreaths, put them on the neck of the General. He did the same to Mrs. Grant, and all the members of the party. Then, taking a string of gold and silken cord, he placed that on Mrs. Grant as a special honor. The Gen- ty ■*&.'■ ccc^t-vC ,i -^ .-<■--. vv -•■-: A. 'W; TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 185 eral, who was instructed by the English Resident, took four wreaths and put them on the neck of the Maharajah, who pressed his hands and bowed his thanks. Another servant came, bearing a small cup of gold and gems con- taining ottar of roses. The Maharajah, putting some of the jDerfume on his fingers, transferred it to Mrs. Grant's handkerchief. With another portion he passed his hands along the General's breast and shoulders. This was done to each of the party. The General then taking the perfume, passed his hands over the Maharajah's shoulders, and so concluding the ceremony, which, in all royal interviews in the East, is supposed to mean a lasting friendship. Then the Prince, taking General Grant's hand in his own, led him from the hall, across the garden and to the gateway of his palace, holding his hand all the time. The carriages were waiting, and the Prince took his leave saying how much he was honored by the General's visit. The cavalry escort formed in line, the guard presented arms, and the visitors drove at full gallop to their home. And so ended one of the most interesting and eventful days in the Gen- eral's visit to India. CHAPTER XV. STILL IN INDIA. General Grant and party visited the Maharajah of Burt- poor, a young prince about thirty years of age. His state is small — its area 1,974 m des, with a population of 743,710, and a revenue of $15,000,000. The day was hot, and the ride had been through a low country, the scenery not very attractive at the best, but now brown and arid under a steaming sun. Arrived at the station, all Burtpoor seemed to be awaiting the General's appearance, with the Maha- rajah at the head. The prince was accompanied by the British officers attached to his court, and, advancing, shook hands with the General and welcomed him to his capital. He wore a blazing uniform, covered with jewels. He had a firm, stern face, with strong features, a good frame, and unlike his brother of Jeypore, who gives his days to prayers and his evenings to billiards; and, although he has the Star of India, has long since seen the vanity of human glory, and hates power, is a soldier and a sportsman, and is called a firm and energetic ruler. From the station the party drove to the palace, through a town whose dismantled walls speak of English valor and English shame, past bazaars, where people seemed to sell nothing, only to broil in the sunshine, and under a high archway into a courtyard, and thence to the palace. There was nothing special about the palace, except that it was very large and very uncomfortable. The prince docs not live in this palace, but in one more suited to Oriental tastes. It was here where he received TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1S7 the Prince of Wales on the occasion of his visit in 1876. There was a breakfast prepared, which the prince left his guests to enjoy in company with their English friends.- In this country the hospitality of the highest princes never goes so far as to ask you to eat. The rules of caste are so marked that the partaking of food with one of another caste, and especially of another race, would be defilement. The host at the close of the breakfast returned in state, and there was the ceremony of altar and pan, and cordial inter- changes of good feeling between the Maharajah and the General. The General and party visited the famous ruins of Futtehpoor Sikva. In the days of the great Moham- medan rulers there was none so great as Akbar. He founded the city and built the palace. The night had fallen before the visitors arrived at their destination, so that they were compelled to remain over night in the ruins. Mr. Lawrence, the British Collector at Agra, had sent forward bed and bedding, and all that was necessary to make the guests comfortable. After a night's rest, the following morning an early start was made to view the ruins. To see all of this stupendous ruin would include a ride around a circumference of seven miles. The ruins were well worth a study. The General examined first a courtyard, or quad- rangle, four hundred and thirty-three feet by three hundred and sixty-six feet. On one side of this is the mosque, which is a noble building, suffering, however, from the over- shadowing grandeur of the principal gateway, the finest, it is said, in India, looming up out of the ruins with stately and graceful splendor, but dwarfing the other monuments and ruins. This was meant as an arch of triumph to the glory of the Emperor, " King of Kings," " Heaven of the Court," and " Shadow of God." There are many of these inscriptions in Arabic, a translation of which is found in Mr. Keene's handbook. The most suggestive is this: iSS GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S " Know that the world is a glass, where the favor has come and gone. Take as thine own nothing more than what thou lookest upon." The prevailing aspect of the archi- tecture was Moslem, with traces of Hindoo taste and deco- ration. The mosque, the tombs and the gateway are all well preserved. At one of the mosques were a number of natives in prayer, who interrupted their devotions long enough to show General Grant the delicate tracing on the walls and beg a rupee. One of the pleasures of wandering among these stupendous ruins is to wander alone and take in the full meaning of the work and the genius of the men who did it. The guides have nothing to tell you. The ruins to them are partly dwelling-places, pretexts for beg- ging rupees. General Grant and party visited Benares — the sacred city of the Hindoos — a city of temples, idols, priests, and worship. The General found so much to interest him in India that it was a source of regret to him that he did not come earlier in the season. Every hour in the country had been full of interest, and the hospitality of the officials and the people so generous and profuse, that his way had been especially pleasant. Travel during the day in India is very severe. Mrs. Grant stood the journey, especially the se- verer phases of it, marvellously, and justifies the reputation for endurance and energy which she won on the Nile. The General is a severe and merciless traveler, who never tires, always ready for an excursion or an experience, as in- different to the comforts or necessities of the way as if he had been on the tented field. Upon arriving at the station of Benares, Mr. Daniels, the representative of the Viceroy, met the General and party. A large guard of honor was in attendance, accompanied by the leading military and civic English representatives and native rajahs, who walked down the line with uncovered heads. In honor of the General's coming, the road from the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 189 station to the Government House had heen illuminated. Poles had been stuck in the ground on either side of the road, and from these poles lanterns and small glass ves- els filled with oil were swinging. So as they drove, before and behind was an avenue of light that recalled the Paris boulevards as seen from Montmartre. It was a long drive to the house of the Commissioner. A part of his house Mr. Daniels gave to General and Mrs. Grant and Mr. Borie. For the others there were tents in the garden. Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, sacred also to the Buddhists, is one of the oldest in the world. Macau- lay's description, so familiar to all, is worth repi'inting, from the vividness with which it represents it, as to-day. " Ben- ares," says Macaulay, in his essay on Warren Hastings, "was a city which, in wealth, population, dignity and sanc- tity, was among the foremost in Asia. It was commonly believed that half a million human beings were crowded into that labyrinth of lofty alleys, rich with shrines and minarets, and balconies and carved oriels, to which the sacred apes clung by hundreds. The traveler could scarcely make his way through the press of holy mendicants and not less holy bulls. The broad and stately flights of steps which descended from these swarming haunts to the bath- ing places along the Ganges were worn every day by the footsteps of an innumerable multitude of worshipers. The schools and temples drew crowds of pious Hindoos from every province where the Brahminical faith was known. Hundreds of devotees came thither every month to die, for it was believed that a peculiarly happy fate awaited the man who should pass from the sacred city into the sacred river. Nor was superstition the only motive which allured strangers to that great metropolis. Com- merce had as many pilgrims as religion. All along the shores of the venerable stream lay great fleets of vessels laden with rich merchandise. From the looms of Benares I90 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS went forth the most delicate silks that adorned the halls of St. James and Verseilles; and in the bazaars the muslins of Bengal and the sabres of Oude were mingled with the jewels of Golconda and the shawls of Cashmere." Ben- ares to one-half the human race — to the millions in China who profess Buddhism and the millions in India who wor- ship Brahma — is as sacred as Jerusalem to the Christian or Mecca to the Mohammedan. Its greatness was known in the days of Nineveh and Babylon, when, as another writer says, " Tyre was planting her colonies, when Athens was gaining in strength, before Rome became known, or Greece had contended with Persia, or Cyrus had added to the Persian monarchy, or Nebuchadnezzar had captured Jerusalem." The name of Benares excites deep emotions in the breast of every pious Hindoo, and his constant prayer is, " Holy Kasi ! Would that I could see the eternal city favored of the gods! Would that I might die on its sacred soil!" Benares is a city of priests. Its population is over two hundred thousand; of this number twenty-five thousand are Brahmins. They govern the city, and hold its temples, wells, shrines and streams. Pilgrims are constantly arriv- ing; as many as two hundred thousand come in the course of the year. Not long since, one authority counted fourteen hundred and fifty-four Hindoo temples, and two hundred and seventy-two mosques. In addition to the temples, there are shrines — cavities built in walls, containing the imnge of some god — as sacred as the temples. Pious rahjas are always adding to the temples and shrines. The streets are so narrow that only in the widest can even an elephant make his way. They are alleys — narrow alleys, not streets — and, as you thread your way through them, you feel as if the town were one house, the chambers only separated by narrow passages. Benares, the holy city — holy even now in the eyes of more than half the human TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 191 race — whose glories, religious and civic, have been forgot- ten in the noise and glitter of our recent civilization. The priest is a sacred ruler. He is the first in caste; the world was made for him, and other men depend upon him. If he is angry and curses, his curses can overturn thrones, scatter troops, even destroy this world and summon other worlds into existence. He is above the King in dig- nity. His life is sacred, and, no matter the enormity of the crime, he cannot be condemned to death. The Brahmins are the strongest social and religious force in Hindostan. Benares is their city. The policy which founded the order of Jesuits has often been cited as a masterpiece of govern- ment, of combining the strongest intellectual force toward missionary enterprise. But the order of Jesuits is a society under rules and discipline only binding its members. The Brahmins not only govern themselves as rigidly as the Jesuits, and hold themselves ready to go as far in the serv- ice of their faith, but they have imposed their will upon every other class. Men of the world, men in other callings, use the name of Jesuit as a term of reproach, and even Catholic kings have been known to banish them and put them outside of civil law. There is not a prince in Hindos- tan who would dare to put a straw in the path of a Brah- min. Brahminism is one of the oldest institutions in the world, one of the most extraordinary developments of human intellect and discipline, and there is no reason to suppose that its power over India will ever pass away. Here is the sacred river Ganges. No office is so sacred to the dead as to burn his body on the banks of the Ganges. Several slabs were observed near the burning Ghat; these were in memory of widows who had burned themselves on that spot in honor of their husbands, according to the old rite of suttee. Benares sits on the sacred river, an emblem of the strange religion which has made it a holy city, and there is solemnity in the thought that for ages she has kept I92 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS her place on the Ganges ; that for ages her shrines have been holy to millions of men ; that for ages the wisest and purest and best of the Indian race have wandered as pilgrims through her narrow streets and plunged themselves as peni- tents into the wnters to wash away their sins. It is all a dark superstition, but let us honor Benares for the comfort she has given to so many millions of sinful, sorrowing souls. And as the white towers and steps of Benares, glis- tening in the sunshine, are left behind, the tourists look back upon it with something of the respect and affection that belong to antiquity, and which are certainly not unworthily bestowed upon so renowned, so sacred and so venerable a city. General Grant visited Delhi. Upon his arrival there was a grand reception by troops, and the General and his wife drove to Ludlow Castle, the home of the chief officer. Delhi is a beautiful city, as the houses are built for air, and not, as in American cities, several stories high. This will account for the great size of Indian cities — that they are so many miles long and so many broad. There are few cities in the world which have had a more varied and more splendid career than Delhi. It is the Rome of India, and the history of India centres around Delhi. It has no such place as Benares in the religion of the people, but to the Indians it is what Rome in the ancient days was to the Roman Empire. One of its au- thentic monuments goes back to the fourth century before Christ. Its splendor began with the rise of the Mogul empire, and the splendor of the Moguls is seen .in what they built, and the severity of their creed in what they destroyed. Outside of the English section, nothing but the ruins and desolation of many wars and dynasties. From the Cashmere gate to the Rutab, a ride of eleven miles, your road is through monumental ruins — tombs, temples, mausoleums, mosques, in all directions. The hori- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 193 zon is studded with minarets and domes, all abandoned, and many in ruins. The General and party visited the palace of the Grand Mogul; saw the throne of Aurungzebe — the peacock throne. This was simply a mass of jewels and gold, val- ued at thirty millions of dollars. Mr. Beresford, in his book on Delhi, says it was called the peacock throne from its having the figures of two peacocks standing behind it, their tails expanded, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls and other precious stones of appro- priate colors, as to represent life. The throne itself was six feet long by four feet broad. It stood on six massive feet, which, with the body, were of solid gold, inlaid with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. It was supported by a canopy of gold, upheld by twelve pillars, all richly emblazoned with costly gems, and a fringe of pearls ornamented the borders of the canopy. A visit to the Kutab tower was worthy of remem- brance. This tower ranks among the wonders of India. It is two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, sloping from the base, which is forty-seven feet in diameter, to the sum- mit, which is nine feet. It is composed of five sections or stories, and with every story there is a change in the de- sign. The lower section has twenty-four sides, in the form of convex flutings, alternately semi-circular and rectangu- lar. In the second section they are circular, the third angu- lar, the fourth a plain cylinder, and the fifth partly fluted and partly plain. At each basement is a balcony. On the lower sections are inscriptions in scroll work, reciting, in Arabic characters, the glory of God, verses from the Koran, and the name and achievements of the conqueror who bui, the tower. It is believed that, when really complete, with the cupola, it must have been twenty feet higher. Attended by an officer who took part in the siege, the General visited the lines held by the English and the Se- 13 194 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS poys during the mutiny, when the English Empire in India depended for months upon the valor and endurance of the small army which invested Delhi. On February 28, General Grant arrived at Calcutta. The railroad authorities, not having any intimation of the Gen- eral's visit, made no arrangements for his reception at the railway station. Only a few gentlemen were present. A company of the Madras Fourteenth Regiment, with band and colors, were drawn up in line on the platform, and at the bridge was posted the European constabulary of the Calcutta police, under the superintendence of Mr. Percy. The gentlemen on the platform were Captain Muir, Aide- de-Camp to His Excellency the Viceroy; Mr. Lambert, the Deputy Commissioner of Police; General Litchfield, the American Consul; Mr. R. Macallister, Mr. Frederick Coke, Mr. Manockjee Rustomjee and son, and some mas- ters of American ships in the river. When the train ar- rived, some difficulty was experienced in finding the car- riage the General was in, as it was far down the platform, where the company of soldiers was drawn up. The Gen- eral, Mrs. Grant and Colonel Grant, and two gentlemen belonging to his staff, then stepped out of a first-class car- riage and were received by the gentlemen, one of whom handed to the General a letter from Nawab Abdul Gunny Meah, of Dacca, inviting the General over to his place. The party then drove to Government House, in two car- riages of the Viceroy, which were in waiting outside the platform. As the party neared Government House, there was a salute of twenty-one guns. In the evening the Vice- roy entertained the General and his party at a dinner-party at Government House. About fifty ladies and gentlemen were honored with invitations to meet them. After the toast of the Queen-Empress was drank, Lord Lytton rose, and spoke as follows: " Ladies and Gentlemen — I sincerely believe that TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I95 there is no toast unconnected with our own country and its institutions which is honored with greater cordiality by Englishmen of all classes, and in all parts of the world, than the toast I am now about to propose to you — because, ladies and gentlemen, we English cannot look, and never do look, upon America as a foreign country, or upon the American people as a foreign people. They are flesh of our flesh and bone of our bone. It is true, no doubt, that our fathers and their fathers have had their family quarrels, over which they have shaken hands — for quarrels will oc- casionally occur in the best regulated families; but these are quarrels which I trust that neither their children not- our children will ever have occasion to renew, for they have been practically settled by a separation of political partner- ship, prolific in substantial benefits to the best interests of mankind. Meanwhile, we Englishmen of the present day all regard our American kinsfolk as, if I may say so, the rising generation, and the most go-ahead representative of that good old sturdy family stock which, while lovingly, loyally and, I hope, lastingly honoring and keeping hon- ored its ancestral roof-tree, still sends forth from its little island home in the northern seas the hardy offspring of a race that has planted and is spreading in every quarter of the habitable globe the language in which Shakspeare wrote, the liberty for which Washington so nobly labored, the social principles of the Code of Blackstone, and the ethical principles of the creed of Christianity. " Ladies and Gentlemen, the toast I am going to propose to you is that of the President of the United States of America. This is a toast to which I am sure you would, in any circumstances, respond with cordiality. But I am confident that in the circumstances which have brought us together this evening your cordiality will be quickened by the presence of an eminent guest who has twice filled with renown the high office we are about to honor in the per- I96 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S son of its present incumbent. That office, ladies and gen- tlemen, is, I think, the highest that can possibly be held — the highest that ever has been filled by the citizen of a free country, and never has that high office been more worthily won or more worthily filled than by the distinguished sol- dier to whose sword America is indebted for the re-estab- lished Union and permanent peace of those great sovereign States, over whose united destinies he has twice success- fully presided. It was said by the great poet of our own commonwealth that ' peace hath her victories no less re- nowned than war,' and with the victories of peace, as well as those of war, I am persuaded that the name of General Grant will long be honorably associated by a double re- nown. " Ladies and Gentlemen, it is neither customary nor proper to couple the name of any private individual, however eminent he may be, with toasts proposed in honor of the ruling power of a sovereign state. I am not going to infringe that rule; and, as regards the rules of hospi- tality, I think you must all feel that of hospitality and of sympathy the best expression is in deeds, not words. I think, therefore, that it would be on my part an inhospita- ble deed if to this toast I added any words which would possibly require from our honored guest the conventional formality of a reply. But, ladies and gentlemen, this at least let me say before I sit down: General Ulysses Grant, like his classic namesake, has seen men and cities in almost every part of the world, enlarging the genius of the states- man and the soldier by the experience of the traveler. Let us hope that when he returns to that great empire of the West, which he has once rescued and twice ruled, he will at least take with him a kindly recollection of his brief so- journ in this empire of the East, where his visit will long be remembered with gratification by many sincere friends and well wishers. Ladies and gentlemen, I have now to. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I97 request that you will fill your glasses and drink with all honor to our last toast this evening. 'The President of the United States of America.' " General Grant replied, briefly returning thanks for the honor tendered him. After a continuous round of enjoyment and thorough inspection of all points of interest, the General left Calcutta by steamer for a visit to British Burmah. Arriving at the city of Rangoon, General Grant and party were saluted by two British men-of-war. They had their yards manned in honor of the General. All the vessels in the river were gaily dressed. The landing was covered with scarlet cloth, ^ind the American and British standards were blended. All the town seemed to be out, and the river bank was lined with the multitude, who looked on in their passive Oriental fashion at the pageant. As soon as the boat came to the wharf, Mr. Aitcheson, the Commissioner, came on board, accompanied by Mr. Leishmann, the American Vice- Consul, and bade the General welcome to Burmah. On landing, the General was presented to the leading citizens and officials, and officers of the men-of-war. The guard of honor presented arms, and they all drove away to the Government House, a pretty, commodious bungalow in the suburbs, buried among trees. Mr. Aticheson is one of the most distinguished officers in the Indian service. He was for some time Foreign Secretary to Calcutta. Burmah, however, is already one of the most important of the Brit- ish colonies in Asia, and this importance is not diminished by the critical relations between British Burmah and the court of the King. Consequently, England requires the best service possible in Burmah, and, as a result of her policy of sending her wisest men to the most useful places, Mr. Aitcheson finds himself in Rangoon. The days spent in Rangoon were pleasant; the town is interesting. The streets are wide and rectangular, like I98 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S those of Philadelphia, and the shade trees are grateful. Over the city, on a height, which you can see from afar, is a pagoda, one of the most famous in Asia. It is covered with gilt, and in the evening, when we first raw it, the sun's rays made it dazzling. This is the land of Buddha and that remarkable religion called Buddhism. Unlike Brahminism, there is no institution of caste, no priestly caste. The priests are taken from any rank in life, never marry, and they deny themselves all the pleasures of the sense, live a monastic life, dress in yellow gowns, shave their heads and beards, and walk barefooted. The priests go in procession. They chant hymns and prayers, and burn incense. They carry strings of beads like the rosary, which they count and fumble as the say their prayers. There is no single, solemn ceremony like the sacrifice of the mass. Priests and people kneel before the images surrounded by blazing wax lights, the air heavy with incense. They pray together, the priests only known by the yellow gowns. They pray kneeling with clasped, uplifted hands. Some- times they hold in their hands a rose, or a morsel of rice, or a fragment of bread, as an offering. During their prayers, they frequently bend their bodies so that the face touches the ground. There are convents for women. The tem- ples are places of rest and refuge. Hither come the unfor- tunate, the poor, the needy, the halt and blind, the belated traveler. All are received, and all are given food and alms. Rangoon is not only interesting from a religious sense, but it one of the largest commercial centers of the British colonies, and General Grant found no part of his visit more interesting, or more worthy of his attention, than the devel- opment of the commerce of Rangoon with the United States. American merchandise now goes to Burmah in English ships, and has to pay an English tax before it can enter this market. With a little effort on the part of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I99 the merchants of the United States, a large market would be found for " Yankee notions," petroleum and ice; for, if proper houses were built for storing ice, it could be made a steady and profitable trade. Ice is now made by machinery, but it is poor, costly and unsatisfactory, and the machinery constantly out of order. A trade based on those articles, established in Rangoon, would supply Burmah, permeate Upper Burmah, Siam and China, and make its way into the islands and settlements. No country in the East is more worthy of the attention of our merchants than Burmah; the harvest is ripe, and whoever comes in will reap a hundred fold. CHAPTER XVI. GENERAL GRANT IN SIAM. General Grant, on landing at Singapore, was landed an autograph letter by Major Struder — a letter enclosed in an envelope of blue satin, from the King of Siam; the letter read as follows: The Grand Palace, Bangkok, | '4th February, 1879. ) My Dear Sir: Having heard from my Minister for Foreign Affairs, on the authority of the United States Consul, that you are expected in Singapore on your way to Bangkok, I beg to express the pleasure I shall have in making your acquaintance. Possibly you may arrive in Bangkok during my absence at my country residence, Bang Pa In; in which case a steamer will be placed at your disposal to bring you to me. On arrival I beg you to communicate with His Excellency, my Minister for Foreign Affairs, who will arrange for your reception and entertainment. Yours very truly, Chulahlongkorn, R. S. To General Grant, late President of the United States. The letter that the King had taken the trouble to send all the way to Singapore, and the desire of General Grant to see all that was to be seen, decided him in accepting this flattering invitation, and visit Siam. So the General and party prepared at once for Siam. A heavy rain swept over Singapore as they embarked on the small steamer Kang See, on the morning of the 9th of April. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 201 The run to Bangkok is set down at four days, and sometimes there are severe storms in the Gulf of Siam; but fortune was with them in this, as it had, indeed, been with them, so far as weather at sea is concerned, ever since they left Marseilles. The evening of their sailing some one happened to remember was the anniversary of the surrender of Lee — fourteen years ago to-day — and the hero of the surrender was sitting on the deck of a small steamer smoking and looking at the clouds, and gravely arguing Mr. Borie out of a purpose which some one has wickedly charged him with entertaining — the purpose of visiting Australia and New Zealand and New Guinea, and spending the summer and winter in the Pacific Ocean. On the morning of the 14th of April, the little steamer in putting into Bangkok lost her reckoning and could not pass the inner bar. About ten o'clock the royal yacht anchored within a cable's length — a long, stately craft, with the American colors flying at the fore, and the royal colors at the main. A boat put off at once, conveying Mr. Sickles, our Consul, the son of the Foreign Minister, representing the Siamese government, and an aid of the King. Mr. Sickles presented the Siamese officials to the General, and the King's aid handed him the following letter, enclosed in an envelope of yellow satin: — The Grand Palace, Bangkok, | April 11, 1879. J Sir: I have very great pleasure in welcoming you to Siam. It is, I am informed, your pleasure that your recep- tion should be a private one; but you must permit me to show, as far as I can, the high esteem in which I hold the most eminent citizen of that great nation which has been so friendly to Siam, and so kind and just in all its inter- course with the nations of the far East. That you may be near me during your stay, I have commanded my brother, His Royal Highness the Celestial Prince Bhanurangsi Swangwongse, to prepare rooms for 202 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS you and your party in the Saranrom Palace, close to my palace, and I most cordially invite you, Mrs. Grant and your party at once to take up your residence there, and my brother will represent me as your host. Your friend, Chulahlongkorn, R. S. His Excellency General Grant, late President of the United States. At four o'clock the General embarked on a royal gon- dola, and was slowly pulled to the shore. The guard pre- sented arms, the cavalry escort wheeled into line, the band played "Hail Columbia." On ascending the stairs, Mr. Alabaster, the royal interpreter, Captain Bush, an English officer commanding the Siamese navy, and a brilliant retinue, were in waiting. The Foreign Minister advanced and welcomed the General to Siam, and presented him to the other members of the suite. Then entering carriages, the General and party were driven to the palace of Hwang Saranrom, the home of His Royal Highness the Celestial Prince Bhanurangsi Swangwongse. As they drove past the barracks the artillery were drawn up in battery, and the cannon rolled out a salute of twenty-one guns. On reaching the palace a guard was drawn up, and another band played the American national air. At the gate of the palace, Phra Sri Dhammason, of the foreign office, met the General and escorted him to the door of the palace. Here he was met by his Excellency Phya Bashakarawangse, the King's pri- vate secretary, and a nobleman of rank corresponding to that of an English earl. At the head of the marble steps was His Royal Highness the Celestial Prince, wearing the decorations of the Siamese orders of nobility, surrounded by other princes of a lesser rank and the members of his household. Advancing, he shook hands with the General, and, offering his arm to Mrs. Grant, led the party to the grand audience chamber. Here all the party were presented to the Prince, and there was a short conversation. The Celestial Prince is a young man about twenty, with a clear,, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 203 expressive face, who speaks English fairly well, but, during the interview, spoke Siamese, through Mr. Alabaster, who acted as interpreter. The Prince lamented the weather, which was untimely and severe. However, it would be a blessing to the country and the people, and His Royal Highness added a compliment that was Oriental in its delicacy when he said that the blessing of the rain was a blessing which General Grant had brought with him to Siam. The Prince then said that his palace was the Gen- eral's home, and that he had been commanded by the King, his brother, to say that anything in the Kingdom that would contribute to the happiness, comfort or honor of General Grant, was at his disposal. The Prince entered into con- versation with Mrs. Grant and the members of the Gen- eral's party. The General expressed himself delighted with the cordiality of his welcome, and said he had been anxious to see Siam, and would have regretted his inability to do so. The Prince offered his arm to Mrs. Grant, and escorted her and the General to their apartments, while the members of his suite assigned the remainder of the party to the quarters they were to occupy while they lived in the capital of Siam. The evening was passed quietly, the General and party dining quietly with the Celestial Prince. The programme arranged by the King for the entertainment of his guests was submitted to General Grant, who regretted his inability to follow the whole of it. Not being on his own ship (the Richmond), which would have awaited his convenience, the General was compelled to return to Singapore on the ordinary mail steamer, which, leaving on Friday, only left him five days for Bangkok. So one or two dinners were eliminated, the visits to the temples and elephants massed into one day, and the run up the river to Ayuthia, the old capital of Siam, added. On the morning after the General's arrival, a visit was 204 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS made to the ex-Regent. This aged statesman is one of the leading men in Siam, the first nobleman in the realm in influence and authority. He was the intimate friend and counsellor of the late King. He governed the Kingdom during the minority of the present sovereign. It was through his influence that the accession of His Majesty was secured without question or mutiny. He is now the chief of the Council of State, and governs several prov- inces of Siam with the power of life and death. His voice in council is potent, partly because of his rank and experience, and partly because of his old age, which is always respected in Siam. Their journey to the Regent's was in boats in Venetian fashion, and, after a half-hour's pulling down one canal and up another, and across the river to a third canal, and up that to a fourth, they came to a large and roomy palace shaded with trees. Orders had been given by the King that the canals and river should be kept free from trading craft and other vessels at the hours set down in the programme for the official visits. As a con- sequence, whenever they took to their boats they pulled along at a rapid pace with no chance of collision. As the boat pulled up to the foot of the palace, the ex- Regent, his breast bearing many orders, was waiting to receive the General. He was accompanied by Mr. Chand- ler, an American gentleman who has spent many years in Siam, and knows the language perfectly. The ex-Regent is a small, spare man, with a clean-cut, well shaped head, and a face reminding you, in its outlines and the general set of the countenance, of the late M. Thiers. It lacked the vivacity which was the characteristic of M. Thiers, and was a grave and serious face. He advanced, shook hands with the General, and, taking his hand, led him up stairs to the audience room of the palace. A guard of honor presented arms, the band played. The Regent led us into his audience hall, and, placing General Grant on his TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 205 right, we all ranged ourselves about him on chairs. An audience with an Eastern Prince is a serious and a solemn matter. The Siamese is a grave person. He shows you honor by speaking slowly, saying little, and making pauses between his speeches. After you take your seat, servants begin to float around. They bring you tea in small china cups — tea of a delicate and pure flavor, and unlike our own attempts in that direction. They bring you cigars, and in the tobacco way we noted a cigarette with a leaf made out of the banana plant, which felt like velvet between the lips, and is an improvement in the tobacco way which even the ripe culture of America on the tobacco question could with advantage accept. In Siam you can smoke in every place, and before every presence, except in the presence of the King. The Regent, after some meditation, spoke of the great pleasure it had given him to meet with General Grant in Siam. He had long known and valued the friendship of the United States, and he was sensible of the good that had been done to Siam by the counsel and the enterprise of the Americans who had lived there. The General thanked the Regent, and was glad to know that his country was so much esteemed in the East. There was a pause and a cup of the enticing tea and some remarks on the weather. The General expressed a desire to know whether the unusual rain would affect the crops throughout the country. The Regent said there was no such apprehension, and there was another pause, while the velvet-coated cigarettes and cigars passed into general c. di- lation. The General spoke of the value to Siam and to all countries in the East of the widest commercial inter- course with nations of the outer world, and that, from all he could learn from the Siamese and the character of their resources, any extension of relations with other nations would be a gain to them. His Highness listened to this 2o6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S speech, as Mr. Chandler translated it in a slow and delib- erate way, standing in front of the Regent, and intoning it almost as though it were a lesson from the morning service. Then there was another pause ; then the Regent responded : Siam, he said, was a peculiar country. It was away from sympathy and communion with the greater nations. It was not in one of the great highways of commerce. Its people were not warlike nor aggressive. It had no desire to share in the strifes and wars of other nations. It existed by the friendship of the great powers. His policy had always been to cultivate that friendship, to do nothing to offend any foreign power, to avoid controversy or pretexts for intervention by making every concession. All this was spoken slowly, deliberately, as if every sentence was weighed, the old Minister speaking slowly, like one in meditation. His deliberate speech seemed to have unusual significance, and made a deep impression upon his visitors — the impression that he who spoke was one in authority and a statesman. After further talk, the Regent addressed himself to Mr. Borie, and asked him his age. Mr. Borie answered that he was sixty-nine. " I am seventy-two," said the Regent: "but you look much older." It is a custom in Siamese, when you wish pay a compliment to an elderly person, to tell him how old he looks, to compliment him on his gray hairs and the lines in his brow. In speaking with Mr. Borie, the Regent became almost playful. " You must not have the trouble of a navy in another war." Mr. Borie expressed his horror of war, and added that America had had enough of it. " At our time of life," said the Regent, putting his hand on Mr. Borie's shoulder in a half playful, half affectionate manner, " we need repose, and that our lives should be made smooth and free from care, and we should not be burdened with authority or grave responsibilities. That belongs to the others. I hope you will be spared any cares." This TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 207 practically closed the interview, and the Regent, taking the hand of the General in his own, in Oriental fashion, led him down-stairs and across the entrance-way to the boat, the troops saluting and the band playing. Then he took a cordial farewell of Mr. Borie, telling him he was a brave man to venture around the world with the burden of so many years upon him. The King of Siam issued the following order for the reception and entertainment of General Grant, which was faithfully carried out: " Programme for the reception and entertainment of General U. S. Grant, ex-President of the United States of America, subject to such modifications as he may deem expedient: "First Day. — On the arrival of the mail steamer Kong See, conveying General Grant and party, at Paknam, a deputation, consisting of Phra Bairaybakya Bhakdi, Phra Sri Sombat and Luang Salayut Witikan, Captain of the Royal Body Guard, will proceed on board the steam yacht Rising Sun to the steamer Kong See. On going on board, they will welcome General Grant in the name of His Majesty, and, on presenting His Majesty's best wishes to General Grant and party, will invite them on board the Rising Sun and convey them up to Bangkok. On their arrival at Bangkok the steam yacht will anchor off the In- ternational Court House. Officers of the Foreign Depart- ment will then proceed to the steam yacht in house boats, with paddles, one of eight and one of seven fathoms in length, to invite and convey General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party to the landing at the International Court House. There will be a company, consisting of one hundred sol- diers, with a military band, at the landing, as a guard of honor. Phya Pihasbarawongree, Private Secretary to His Majesty, Phra Bpaksa Nanaprates Kich, Judge of the In- ternational Court, with officers of the Royal Horse Guard .and officers of the Foreign Department, will be in waiting 2o8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S at the landing to invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and' party to take carriages and proceed to the Grand Saronrom Palace. A guard of honor will be drawn up in front of the palace, consisting of twenty soldiers and a military band for the occasion. Phra Sudham Maitre and Phra Sri Dhamasan will be in waiting at the door of the palace to receive General Grant and party. His Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Bhanurangse Sawangwongo, and His Excellency Chow Phya Bhann Wongse Maha Cosa Dhi- poti, Minister for Foreign Affairs, will be in waiting in the upper porch to welcome them to the palace. General Grant and party having gone into the palace, a salute of twenty-one guns will be fired. In case the arrival occurs in the night, the salute will be deferred until the morning. "Second Day At ten o'clock a. m. the officers will invite General Grant to visit His Highness Somdech Chow Phya Boom Maha Suramngse, the ex-Regent, and mem- bers of the Senabodi, and will be conveyed in carriages to the landing of the International Court, then in boats. They will return by the same route. At four o'clock p. M. the officers will invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party to an audience with His Majesty the King of Siam, in the royal palace. The audience will be held in the grand audience hall, Boromraj Satet Maholan. After the royal audience they will be conveyed in carriages to an audience with His Majesty Krow Phrarajawany Pawara Sthan Mongal, second King. At nine o'clock p. m. His Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Bhanurangse Sawangwongo will hold a reception in honor of General Grant at the Pal- ace Saronrom. "Third Day. — On the morning of this day His Maj- esty the King of Siam will return the visit of General Grant at the Palace Saronrom. At four p. m. the officers will invite General Grant and party to pay a visit to His Royal Highness Somdech Phra Chow Boronwongee Ter TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 209 Chowfa Maha Mala Krom Phra Bamrap Parapax, and will be conveyed in carriages. At eleven o'clock p. m. General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party will be entertained at a royal banquet in the royal palace, Boromraj Satet Maholan, and will be conveyed in carriages. " Fourth Day. — At four o'clock p. m. the officers will invite General Grant and party to pay a visit to His Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Chaturomasami Krom- duang Chakrapatdipong. After which they will take a look at the Monastery Arunrayweram-Wat-Chung. At seven o'clock General Grant and party will be entertained at dinner at the official residence of His Excellency the Minister for Foreign Affairs, and will be conveyed in car- riages and in boats. " Fifth Day. — At three o'clock p. m. the officers will invite General Grant and party to the Monastery Phra Budhoatnesatan and the Monastery Phrasee Ratnesasa- dahram, also the museum at the royal palace. They will then be invited to a private audience with His Majesty the King, in the royal palace. At seven o'clock p. m. Gen- eral Grant and party will be entertained at a dinner party at the official residence of His Highness Somdech Chow Phya Borom Maha Sri Suramngse, the ex-Regent. " Sixth Day. — At three o'clock p. m. officers will in- vite General Grant and party to visit the temple Satatteph Taram and the temple Phra Chattupun Vevnon Niank- ahram, and from thence will go into the Royal Palace to see the royal white elephants. After that he will proceed to the palace of His Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Maha Mala Krom Phra Bamap Parapax to see the state elephants and the elephants of war. At eight o'clock p. m. His Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Chaturong Rasami Krom Luang Chakrapatdipon will entertain General Grant and party with a ball at the old royal palace. "Seventh Day. — At nine o'clock a. m. the officers 2IO GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S will invite General Grant and party to embark on board the royal yacht Vesatri, to take an excursion, to view the scenery on the River Chow Phya. General Grant and party will be conveyed in carriages to the landing, and thence embark on board the Vesatri, and will return in the same manner. At four o'clock in the afternoon the officers will invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party to a royal audience with His Majesty at the royal palace." In Siam there is a second King, or as occupying a posi- tion similar to that of the Vice-President of the United States. In Siam the second King is a person and an authority, entitled to royal honors, living in a palace, with troops, a court, a harem and a Foreign Minister. He has an income from the State of $300,000 a year. Of authority he has none beyond the management of his household and the command of troops in certain of the provinces. The second King, therefore, is a political influence in Siam — great, because behind him is the supposed power of England. Take that power away, and His Majesty would be ranked among the nobles, allowed the position of a duke, given his place after the royal family, and the present office would be eliminated altogether from the government of Siam. It certainly seems to be an expen- sive and an almost useless function, one that might readily be absorbed into the royal office with a gain to the treasury and no loss to the State. The prince who holds the posi- tion is in his fortieth year and is a gentleman of intelligence. His Majesty the first King of Siam, and absolute sover- eign, is named Chulahlongkorn. This, at least, is the name which he attaches to the royal signet. His name as given in the books is Phrabat Somdetch Phra Paramendo Mahah Chulah-long-korn Klow. On the afternoon of April 14, at three o'clock, General Grant and party had their audience with the King of Siam. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 211 Our Palace of Saronrom, in which we are living, is next to the Grand Palace; but so vast are these royal homes that it was quite a drive to the house of our next-door neighbor. The General and party went in state carriages, and at the door of the palace were met by an officer. Troops were drawn up all the way from the gate to the door of the audience hall, and it was quite a walk before, having passed temples, shrines, outhouses, pavilions and statelier mansions, we came to the door of a modest building and were met by aids of the King. A wide pair of marble steps led to the audience room, and on each side of the steps were pots with blooming flowers and rare shrubs. The band in the courtyard played the national air, and as the General came to the head of the stairs the King, who was waiting, and wore a magnificent jeweled decoration, ad- vanced and shook the hands of the General in the warmest manner. Then, shaking hands with Mrs. Grant, he offered her his arm, and walked into the audience hall. The au- dience hall is composed of two large, gorgeously decorated saloons, that would not be out of place in any palace. The decorations were French, and reminded you of the Louvre. In the first hall were a series of busts of contemporary sov- ereigns and rulers of states. The place of honor was given to the bust of General Grant, a work of art in dark bronze which did not look much like the General, and seems to have been made by a French or English artist from photographs. From here the King passed on to a smaller room, beautifully furnished in yellow satin. Here the King took a seat on a sofa, with Mrs. Grant and the General on either side, the members of the party on chairs near him, officers of the court in the background standing, and servants at the doors, kneeling in attitudes of sub- mission. The King is a spare young man, active and nervous in his movements, with a full, clear, almost glitter- ing black eye, which moved about restlessly from one to 212 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S the other, and while he talked his ringers seemed to be keeping unconscious time to the musical measures. When any of his court approached him, or were addressed by him, they responded by a gesture or salute of adoration. Everything about the King betokened a high and quick intel- ligence, and, although the audience was a formal one, and the conversation did not go beyond words of courtesy and wel- come from the King to the General and his party, he gave you the impression of a i*esolute and able man, full of re- sources and quite equal to the cares of his station. This impression was confirmed by all that we heard or saw in Siam. The audience at an end, the King led Mrs. Grant and the General to the head of the stairs, and we took our leave. At three o'clock, on the 15th of April, the King returned the General's visit, by coming in state to see him at our palace of Saronrom. This, we were told, was a most unusual honor, and was intended as the highest com- pliment it was in His Majesty's power to betow. A state call from a King is an event in Bangkok, and long before the hour the space in front of the palace was filled with curious Siamese and Chinese, heedless of the rain, waiting to gaze upon the celestial countenance. As the hour came, there was the bustle of preparation. First came a guard, which formed in front of the palace; then a smaller guard, which formed in the palace yard, from the gate to the porch; then a band of music, which stood at the rear of the inner guard; then came attendants, carrying staves in their hands to clear the streets, and give warning that the King was coming, that the streets should be abandoned by all, so that His Majesty should have unquestioned way. Then came a squadron of the royal body guard in scarlet uniform, under the command of a royal Prince. The King- sat in a carriage alone on the back seat, with two princes with him, who sat on the front seats. His Royal High- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 213 ness and the members of the household arrayed themselves in state garments, the Prince wearing a coat of purple silk. The General and his party wore evening dress, as worn at home on occasions of ceremony. When the trum- pets announced the coming of the King, the General, accompanied by the Prince, the members of his household and party, came to the foot of the stairs. Colonel Grant, wearing the uniform of a lieutenant-colonel, waited at the gate to receive the King in his father's name. The General waited at the foot of the marble steps, and, as the King advanced, shook hands with him cordially and led him to the reception room. The King was dressed in simple Siamese costume, wearing the decoration of Siam, but not in uniform. Mr. Alabaster, the interpreter, stood behind the- King and the General. The King, who spoke Siamese, said he hoped that the General had found every- thing comfortable for himself and party at the Saranrom Palace. The General said that nothing could be more agreeable than the hospitality of the Prince. The King said he hoped that the General, if he wanted anything, to see any part of Siam, go anywhere or do any- thing, would express the wish, as he would feel it a great privilege to give him anything in this kingdom. General Grant said he appreciated the King's kind- ness, and thanked him. The King, after a pause, said that General Grant's visit was especially agreeable to him, because, not only in his own reign, but before, Siam had been under obligations to the United States. Siam saw in the United States not only a great but a friendly power, which did not look upon the East with any idea of aggrandizement, and to whom it was always pleasant to turn for counsel and advice. More than that, the influence of most of the Americans who had come 214 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S to Siam had been good, and those who had been in the government's service had been of value to the State. The efforts of the missionaries to spread a knowledge of the arts and sciences, of machinery and of medicine, among the Siamese, had been commendable. The King was glad to have the opportunity of saying this to one who had been the chief magistrate of the American people. General Grant responded that the policy of the United States was a policy of non-intervention in everything that concerned the internal affairs of other nations. It had become almost a traditional policy, and experience con- firmed its wisdom. The country needed all the energies of its own people for its development, and its only interest in the East was to do what it could to benefit the people, especially in opening markets for American manufactures. The General, in his travels through India and Burmah, had been much gratified with the commendations bestowed upon American products ; and although the market was as yet a small one, he felt certain that our trade with the East would become a great one. There was the field at least, and our people had the opportunity. Nothing would please him more than to see Siam sharing in this trade. Beyond this there was no desire on the part of the American gov- ernment to seek an influence in the East. The King said nothing would please him more than the widest possible development of the commerce between Siam and America. The resources of Siam were great, but their development limited. Siam was like the United States in one respect, that it had a large territory and a small population, and the development of many sources of wealth that were known to exist had been retarded from this cause. General Grant thought this difficulty might be met by the introduction of skilled labor, such, for instance, as TOUR AROUXD THE WORLD. 21$ mining experts from Nevada and California, who could prospect and locate mines, and labor-saving machinery, in which the Americans especially excelled. The King assented to this, with the remark that the Siamese were a conservative people and studied any thing new very carefully before adopting it. Their policy in foreign relations had been a simple one — peace with foreign powers and steady development of the country. Siam was a small country with limited resources, and she knew that she could not contend with the great foreign powers. Consequently she always depended upon the jus- tice and good will of foreign powers. This sometimes led to their appearing to consent or to submit to some things which under other circumstances and by other and greater nations would not be endured. In the end, however, it worked right, and Siam, looking back over her relations with the great powers, found, on the whole, no reason for regret. In the main these relations had been for the good of the Siamese people. From the foreign powers Siam had always received encouragement. The King led the way to the upper audience chamber, the saloon of the statues. Here ensued a long conversa- tion between the King and the General and the various members of the party. Mrs. Grant, in the inner room, had a conversation with the Queen, who had not been at the table. In conversing with the General, the King became warm and almost affectionate. He was proud of having made the acquaintance of the General, and he wanted to know more of the American people. He wished Ameri- cans to know that he was a friend of the country. As to the General himself, the King hoped when the General returned to the United States that he would write the King and allow the King to write to him, and always be his friend and correspondent. The General said he would always remember his visit to Siam; that it would afford 2l6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S him pleasure to know that he was the friend of the King; that he would write to the King and always be glad to hear from him; and if he could ever be of service to the King it would be a pleasure. With Mr. Borie the King also had a long conversation, and his manner toward the venerable ex-Secretary was especially kind and genial. It was midnight before the party came to an end. On the next morning there was a state dinner at the royal palace. The party consisted of the King, His Royal Highness the Celestial Prince, several princes, members of the royal family of lower rank, General Grant and party, the American Consul, Mr. Sickles, and Miss Struder, daughter of the Consul at Singapore; Mr. Torrey, the American Vice-Consul, and Mrs. Torrey; the Foreign Minister, his son, the King's private secretary, Mr. Ala- baster, the members of the Foreign Office, and the aids of the King who had been attending the General. The Siamese all wore state dresses — coats of gold cloth, richly embroidered — and the King wore the family decoration, a star of nine points, the centre a diamond, and the other points with a rich jewel of different character, embracing the precious stones found in Siam. The General was re- ceived in the audience hall, and the dinner was served in the lower hall or dining-room. There were forty guests present, and the service of the table was silver, the prevail- ing design being the three-headed elephant, which belongs to the arms of Siam. This service alone cost ten thousand pounds in England. There were two bands in attendance, one playing Siamese, and the other European music, alter- nately. The Celestial Prince escoi'ted Mrs. Grant to dinner, and sat opposite the King at the centre of the table. General Grant sat next the King. The dinner was long, elaborate, and in the European style, with the exception of some dishes of curry dressed in Siamese fashion, which we were not brave enough to do more than taste. The night was TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 217 warm, but the room was kept moderately cool by a system of penekahs or large fans swinging from the ceiling, which kept the air in circulation. After they had been at the table about three hours there was a pause and a signal. The fans stopped, the music paused, and Mr. Alabaster, as interpreter, took his place behind the King. His Majesty then arose, and the com- pany with him, and, in a clear accent heard all over the saloon, made the following speech in Siamese: "Your Royal Highness, Ladies and Gentle- men, Now Assembled: I beg you to hear the expres- sion of the pleasure which I have felt in receiving as my guest a President of the United States of America. Siam has for many years past derived great advantages from America, whose citizens have introduced into my kingdom many arts and sciences, much medical knowledge and many valuable books, to the great advantage of the country. Even before our countries were joined in treaty alliance, citizens of America came here and benefited us. Since then our relations have greatly improved, and to the great advantage of Siam, and recently the improvement has been still more marked. Therefore it is natural that we should be exceedingly gratified by the visit paid to us by a President of the United States. General Grant has a grand fame, that has reached even to Siam, that has been known here for several years. We are well aware that as a true soldier he first saw glory as a leader in war, and, thereafter accept- ing the office of President, earned the admiration of all men as being a statesman of the highest rank. It is a great gratification to all of us to meet one thus eminent both in the government of war and of peace. We see him and are charmed by his gracious manner, and feel sure that his visit will inaugurate friendly relations with the United States of a still closer nature than before, and of the most enduring character. Therefore I ask you all to join with 2l8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S me in drinking the health of General Grant and wishing him every blessing." When the King finished, Mr. Alabaster translated the speech into English, the company all the time remaining on their feet. Then the toast was drank with cheers, the band playing the American national air. General Grant then arose, and, in a low but clear and perfectly distinct voice, said : "Your Majesty, Ladies and Gentlemen: I am very much obliged to Your Majesty for the kind and complimentary manner in which you have welcomed me to Siam. I am glad that it has been my good fortune to visit this country and to thank Your Majesty in person for your letters inviting me to Siam, and to see with my own eyes your country and your people. I feel that it would have been a misfortune if the programme of my journey had not included Siam. I have now been absent from home nearly two years, and during that time I have seen every capital and nearly every large city in Europe, as well as the principal cities in India, Burmah and the Malay Peninsula. I have seen nothing that has interested me more than Siam, and every hour of my visit here has been agreeable and instructive. For the welcome I have re- ceived from Your Majesty, the princes and members of the Siamese government, and the people generally, I am very grateful. I accept it, not as personal to myself alone, but as a mark of the friendship felt for my country by Your Majesty and the people of Siam. I am glad to see that feeling, because I believe that the best interests of the two countries can be benefited by nothing so much as the estab- lishment of the most cordial relations between them. On my return to America I shall do what I can to cement those relations. I hope that in America we shall see more of the Siamese, that we shall have embassies and diplomatic rela- tions, that our commerce and manufactures will increase TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 219 with Siam, and that your young men will visit our country and attend our colleges as they now go to colleges in Ger- many and England. I can assure them all a kind reception, and I feel that the visits would be interesting and advan- tageous. I again thank Your Majesty for the splendid hospitality which has been shown to myself and my party, and I trust that your reign will be happy and prosperous, and that Siam will continue to advance in the arts of civili- zation." General Grant, after a pause, then said : " I hope you will allow me to ask you to drink the health of His Majesty the King of Siam. I am honored by the opportunity of proposing that toast in his own capi- tal and his own palace, and of saying how much I have been impressed with his enlightened rule. I now ask you to drink the health of His Majesty the King, and prosperity and peace to the people of Siam." After a round of receptions, entertainments and excur- sions, the General bade adieu to Siam, having passed a delightful week. CHAPTER XVII. GENERAL GRANT IN CHINA. On April 25, General Grant arrived at Saigon in the French mail steamship Irawaddy. He and his party were invited by Rear-Admiral La Fond, Governor of French Cochin China, to sojourn at the Government House. They passed the night there, and next day visited public buildings and places of interest. A public levee was given on the evening of the 26th. The guests returned to the ship about midnight, and the voyage was resumed on the 27th. They reached Hong Kong on the evening of April 30. The ship was immediately boarded by United States Consuls Mosby, of Hong Kong; Lincoln, of Canton; Charge d' Affaires Holcombe, and deputations of citizens of various countries, including Japan. The same evening the visitors proceeded to the United States ship Ashuelot, where they were received with a salute of twenty-one guns. After partaking of refreshments, they went ashore in the Colonial government launch. Salutes were fired by batteries all along the river. General Grant arrived at Canton on the evening of May 6, and was received by the Consular officials, and con- ducted to the Viceroy's yaman, three miles from the point of debarkation. Canton is situated on the Pearl River, thirty miles from the coast. The Viceroy sent a gunboat out as escort up the river. This vessel, bearing the Ameri- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 22 1 can flag at the fore out of compliment to the General, fol- lowed all the way. At various points in the river — wherever, indeed, there were forts — salutes were fired and troops paraded. These lines of troops, with their flags — and nearly every other man in a Chinese army carries a flag — looked picturesque and theatrical as seen from our deck. It was nine o'clock in the evening before the lights of Canton were seen. The Chinese gunboats, as the General and party came to anchorage, burned blue lights and fired rockets. The landing was decorated with Chinese lanterns, and many of the junks in the river burned lights and dis- played the American flag. The whole city had been wait- ing all the afternoon, and had now gone home to dinner. Next morning salutes were exchanged between the Ash- uelot and the Chinese gunboats. The General remained at home during the morning to receive calls. The coming of General Grant had created a flutter in the Chinese mind. No foreign barbarian of so high a rank had ever visited the Celestial Kingdom. As soon as the Viceroy learned of the visit, he sent word to the American Consul that he would receive General Grant with special honors. The Viceroy ordered all the houses closed, streets cleared and the troops paraded. A placard issued, that a foreigner was coming to do the Viceroy honor, and that the people must do him honor. We give a translation of one of these extra bulletins: " We have just heard that the King of America, being on friendly terms with China, will leave America early in the third month, bringing with him a suite of officers, etc., all complete on board the ship. It is said that he is bring- ing a large number of rare presents with him, and that he will be here in Canton about the 6th or 9th of May. He will land at the Tintsy ferry, and will proceed to the Vice- roy's palace by way of the South gate, the Fantai's Nga- 222 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S mun and the Waning Street. Viceroy Lan has arranged that all the mandarins shall be there to meet him, and a full Court will be heldo After a little friendly conversa- tion he will leave the Viceroy's palace, and visit the vari- ous objects of interest within and without the walls. He will then proceed to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, to con- verse and pass the night. It is not stated what will then take place, but notice will be given." As the hour approached for the General to enter Can- ton, the crowd on the street grew larger and larger. A Tartar officer arrived with a detachment of soldiers, who formed, and kept the crowd back. Then came the chairs and the chair bearers, for in Canton you must ride in chairs and be borne on the shoulders of men. Rank is shown by the color of the chair and the number of attendants. The General's chair was a stately affair. On the top was a sil- ver globe. The color was green, a color highly esteemed in China, and next in rank to yellow, which is sacred and consecrated to the Emperor, who alone can ride in a yellow chair. The chair is borne by eight men, and swings on long bamboo poles. In addition to the chair bearers, there was a small guard of unarmed soldiers, some ahead and others behind the chair, whose presence gave dignity to the chair and its occupant. The principal business of this guard seemed to be to shout and to make all the noise possible. At last they were under way for their visit to the Vice- roy. First rode the single Tartar officer, then came the shouting guard, then General Grant in his chair of state. The General wore evening dress. The crowd and enthu- siasm manifested all along the route was an extraordinary sight wherever the street was intersected with other streets. The crowd became so dense that additional troops were required to hold them in place, and at various points the Chinese salute of three guns was fired. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 223 The road to the viceregal palace was three miles, and as the pace of the coolie who carries the chair is a slow one, and especially on days of multitudes and pageantry, they were over an hour on their journey, and for this hour they journeyed through a sea of faces, a hushed and silent sea, that swept around them, covering windows, doors, streets, roof tops, wherever there was room for a pair of feet or hands. Some of the party estimated that there were two hun- dred thousand people to witness General Grant's progress through Canton. Two hundred thousand men, women and children may be taken, therefore, as an estimate by one who saw and took part in the ceremony. But no massing together of figures, although you ascend into the hundreds of thousands, will give an idea of the multitude. The march was a slow one. There were frequent pauses. Arrived at the palace of the Viceroy, the visitors descend from their chairs, and enter the open reception room or audience chamber. But the booming guns, which boom in a quick, angry fashion; the increasing crowds, the renewed lines of soldiery, now standing in double line, their guns at a present; the sons of mandarins, the Viceroy's guard, un- der trees, and the open, shaded enclosure into which we are borne by our staggering, panting chair-bearers, tell us that we are at our journey's end, and at the palace of the Viceroy. We descend from our chairs, and enter the open reception room or audience chamber. The Viceroy him- self, surrounded by all the great officers of his court, is wait- ing at the door. As General Grant advances, accompanied by the Consul, the Viceroy steps forward and meets him with a gesture of welcome, which to our barbarian eyes looks like a gesture of adoration. He wears the man- darin's hat, and the pink button and flowing robes of silk, the breast and back embroidered a good deal like the sac- rificial robes of an archbishop at high mass. The Viceroy 224 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS is a Chinaman, and not of the governing Tartar race. He has a thin, somewhat worn face, and is over fifty years of age. His manner was the perfection of courtesy and cor- diality. He said he knew how unworthy he was of a visit from one so great as General Grant, but that this unwor- thiness only increased the honor. Then he presented the General to the members of his Court — Chang Tsein, the Tartar General; Jen Chi, the Imperial Commissioner of Customs; San Chang Mow, the Deputy Tartar General, and Chi Hwo, the Assistant Tartar General. After Gen- eral Grant had been presented, each of his party in turn were welcomed by the Viceroy, and presented to his suite. During this interchange of compliments the reception room was filled with members and retainers of the Court. Mandarins, aids, soldiers — all ranks were present. The whole scene was one of curiosity and excitement. The Chinamen seemed anxious to do all they could to show General Grant how welcome was his coming, but such a visit was a new thing, and they had no precedent for the reception of strangers who held so high a position as Gen- eral Grant. After the civilities were exchanged, the Viceroy led the General and party into another room, where there were chairs and tables around the room in a semi-circle. Between each couple of chairs was a small table, on which were cups of tea. The General was led to the place of honor in the centre, and the Chinese clustered together in one corner. After some persuasion the Viceroy was induced to sit beside the General, and the conversation proceeded. Nothing was said beyond the usual compliments, which were only repeated in various forms. After sitting fifteen minutes they drank tea in Chinese fashion. The tea is served in two cups, one of which is placed over the other in such a manner that when you take TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 225 up the cups you have a globe in your hands. The tea is plain, and as each particular cup has been brewed by itself — is, in fact, brewing while you are waiting — you have the leaves of the tea, avoiding the leaves by pushing the upper bowl down into the lower one so as to leave a minute open- ing and draw out the tea. Some drank the tea in orthodox home fashion, but others, being sensitive to the reputation of bai-barism, perhaps, managed the two bowls very much as though it were an experiment in jugglery, and drank the tea like a mandarin. This ceremony over, they were led into another room that opened on a garden. Here were guards, aids and mandarins and lines of soldiers. They found a large table spread covered with dishes — eighty dishes in all. A part of a Chinese reception is entertain- ment, and the General's was to be regal. They sat around the table and a cloud of attendants appeared, who with silver and ivory chopsticks heaped their plates. Beside each plate were two chopsticks and a knife and fork, so that they might eat their food as they pleased, in Chinese or European fashion. The food was all sweetmeats, candied fruits, walnuts, al- monds, ginger, cocoanuts, with cups of tea and wine. The Viceroy with his chopsticks helped the General. This is true Chinese courtesy, for the host to make himself the serv- ant of his guest. Then came a service of wine — sweet champagne and sauterne — in which the Viceroy pledged us all, bowing to each guest as he drank. Then, again, came tea, which in China is the signal for departure, an in- timation that your visit is over. The Viceroy and party arose and led them to their chairs. Each one was severally and especially saluted as they entered their chairs; and as they filed off under the trees, their coolies dangling them on their shoulders, they left the Viceroy and his whole court, with rows of mandarins and far-extending lines of soldiers in an attitude of devotion, hands held together toward the IS 226 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S forehead and heads bent, the soldiers with arms presented. The music, real, banging, gong-thumping Chinese music, broke out, twenty-one guns were fired, so close that the smoke obscured the view, and they plunged into the sea of life through which they had floated, and back again, through one of the most wonderful sights ever seen, back to their shady home in the American Consulate. Consul-General Lincoln gave a grand State dinner on the nth. In addition to the members of the General's party there were Captain Perkins, Mr. McEwen, Mr. Deering, Mr. Case and Mr. Strickland, of the Ashuelot, and the leading members of the foreign settlement to the number of forty. The whole house was dressed with wreaths and evergreens and American flags, and in front of the house was a platform for fireworks. The day had been fitful as far as rain was concerned, and heavy black clouds banked themselves in the skies. But the fire- works were fairly successful, and the dinner was good, and Mr. Lincoln made an excellent speech, to which the Gen- eral replied by thanking the Consul for his courtesy. He had, he said, visited every capital and nearly every large city in Europe, and looked forward with interest to his con- tinued progress through Asia. The honors he received were paid, not to him, but to his country, and in that spirit he accepted them. He believed that peace could have no better assurance than in the harmony and cordial good feeling of the civilized nations of the world, and in presence of so many representatives of these nations he felt he could propose no better sentiment than the health of the rulei-s and governments they represented. Mr. Rowe then proposed the health in flattering terms of Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln. Mr. Lincoln thanked Mr. Rowe in a few well turned remarks, and the party left the dining-room to wit- ness a grand display of fireworks. A bamboo erection, sixty feet high, had been placed in front of the Consulate, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 227 and after a number of rockets, Catherine wheels and color- ed lights of all kinds had been let off, a set piece displaying a pagoda was fired and a magnificent spectacle was pro- duced, winding up with a volley of rockets of all colors. At ten o'clock a reception was held at the Consulate, when the whole of the American and European community were presented to General Grant by Mr. Lincoln. The welcome given General Grant at Canton was even more enthusiastic, and, in point of numbers participat- ing, the most demonstrative, of any that had preceded it. There was so much ceremony during the General's visit that he had scarcely any opportunity to see the city, he having given himself but four days to see Canton, and had promised to return to Hong Kong to be present at a garden party to be given on Monday. General Grant and party sailed down the river from Canton over to Macao, within five hours' sail of Hong Kong. Macao is a colony of Portugal, and has been for more than three centuries. Owing to the serious illness of the Governor, there was no public reception. The Gov- ernor sent the most cordial greeting and welcome to Macao. The General landed and drove to a hotel. In the evening he strolled about, and in the morning visited the one site that gives Macao world-wide fame — the home and grotto of Camoens. Camoens was a soldier-poet, lost his sight in a conflict with the Moors, and, dissatisfied with the condition of affairs in Portugal, sailed for the East, and came in banishment to Macao. Here he wrote the " Lusiad." Senor Marques, a Portuguese resident, is now the owner of the Grotto. The General was shown over the grounds by the Senor, who, in honor of his coming, had built an arch over the entrance with the inscription, "Welcome to General Grant." The grounds surrounding the Grotto are beautiful and extensive, and for some time the party walked past the bamboo, the pimento, the coffee, 228 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S and other tropical trees and plants. Then they ascended to a bluff overlooking the town and sea, and from that point they had a commanding view of the town, the ocean, and the rocky coasts of China. The Grotto of Camoens is enclosed with an iron railing, and a bust of the poet sur- mounts the spot where, according to tradition, he was wont to sit and muse and compose his immortal poems. General Grant inscribed his name in the visitors' book, and, accom- panied by Senor Marques, returned to the Ashuelot, which at once steamed for Hong Kong. Salutes were fired from the Portuguese battery as they left, and at two o'clock they landed in Hong Kong harbor, where Governor Hennessy met the General and took him to the Government House. General Grant's reception at Hong Kong was as brill- iant and enthusiastic as that at Canton. Disembarking amid salutes from the Ashuelot and the Japanese- corvette Nishin, they were received at a decorated landing-pier by Governor Hennessy and staff, members of the Legislative Council, heads of the military and naval services, a guard of honor, and a multitude of American, European and Chinese spectators. After introductions, they were escorted to the Government House. Many streets were adorned with flags, etc., and houses were illuminated. On May i General Grant called upon Consul Mosbv and informally inspected localities of importance. On May 2 he held a public reception at the United States Consulate, and dined with Chief Justice Sir John Smale. May 3 he attended a state dinner at Government House. The felicitous address of Governor Hennessy was warmly commended by the Americans. General Grant responded briefly and effect- ively, giving the sentiment of " Good will and alliance between Britons and Americans." The citizens of Hong Kong had arranged a garden party to be given General Grant on Monday, but the weather interfered, and the General was compelled to leave TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 220, on Monday, to keep engagements made for him in the North. He spent Sunday quietly with the Governor, and on Monday morning took leave of his brilliant and hospita- ble host. Before leaving, the General, accompanied by the Governor and our Consul, Colonel John S. Mosby, received a deputation of Chinese, who wished to present him with -an address. The presentation took place in the parlors of the Government House, when the following address was read : — " To General Ulysses S. Grant, late President of the United States of America, and Commander-in-Chief of the United States Army. "Sir: On the occasion of your honoring Hong Kong with your presence, we, the undersigned, on behalf of the Chinese community, approach you to give you a hearty welcome, and beg to present you an address expressive of our high esteem and respect for you. During your Presi- dency your geat name and noble deeds were known far and wide, and by the carrying out of a just policy you commanded admiration and respect from all classes of people under your rule. We have been delighted to find that in international questions you have shown a spirit of impartiality and fairness, treating Americans and foreigners alike, and the Chinese who have been trading in the United States have sung, and continue to sing, praises of the many good actions done by you while in office. " We had longed to see you, but, being far away, we were hitherto not permitted to realize our wish. Now that you have favored us with a visit we avail ourselves of the opportunity to present you with a scroll inscribed with these four words, "Benefit to Chinese People," which we hope may serve as a souvenir of your interview with the Chinese community of Hong Kong. "Signed by Lee Ting, Ho Amei, Lee Tuck Cheong, and ninety others." General Grant said: — "Gentlemen, I am very happy to 23O GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S meet so many representatives of the Chinese community in Hong Kong, and for the kind words of your address accept my thanks. I have looked forward for a long time to my visit to China, and am pleased to see, as I have seen in Hong Kong, that the Chinese are a thrifty, industrious and intelligent people. I have no other wish than that between the two peoples there shall be harmony and the best relations, and in this spirit I accept your address and the beautiful memento which accompanies it, and thank you for your good wishes." After giving the address the General and party, accom- panied by Governor Hennessy and wife and Colonel Mosby, took chairs and proceeded to the landing, to embark for the north. There was a guard of honor at the wharf, and all the foreign residents were present. As the General went on board the launch, hearty cheers were given, which were again and again repeated as he steamed into the bay. The Governor took his leave of General Grant on board the Ashuelot, and, as he left, the vessel fired a salute of sev- enteen guns in his honor, with the British flag at the fore. General Grant's trip along the coast of China was ex- ceptionally pleasant, so far as winds and waves were con- cerned. There was a monsoon blowing, but it was just enough to help along without disturbing the sea. Then it was a pleasure to come once more into cooler latitudes. Ever since they left Naples they had been under the sun, and nearly four months' battle with it had told upon them all. It was a luxury to tread the deck, and feel a cool breeze blowing from the north; to roll yourself in a blanket as you slept on deck ; to look out warmer clothing, and feel that life was something more than living in a Turkish bath. On the morning of the 13th they came to Swatow. Swatow is one of the treaty ports thrown open to for- eigners under the treaty of Lord Elgin. It is at the mouth of the river Hau. The entrance to the river is striking in TOUR AROUND THE \TORLD. 23I point of scenery, and as they came in sight of the town all the Chinese forts saluted, and the shipping in the harbor dressed. C. C. Williams, Consular Agent, came on board to welcome the General, and in his company he landed, and spent an hour in threading the old Chinese town. The streets were narrow. While in Swatow the Chinese Gov- ernor called in state, and said that he had orders from the government to pay all possible attentions to General Grant. It was the custom of the country in making these calls to bring an offering, and, as nothing is more useful than food, he had brought a live sheep, six live chickens, six ducks and four hams. While the Governor was in conference with the General, the animals were outside. There was nothing for the General to do but to accept the homely offering, and present it to the servants. General Grant visited Amoy, another of the treaty ports open to foreign trade. It is on the Island of Hea- mun, at the mouth of the Dragon River. The scenery, as seen in approaching the island, is picturesque. All the bat- teries fired a salute, and there was a welcome from one of the United States men-of-war, the Ranger, commanded by Commander Boyd. Vice-Consul Stevens came on board, and welcomed the General to Amoy. He landed, and strolled through the Chinese town, which was very old and dirty. At noon there was a large luncheon party, at which we met all the Consuls, the leading citizens, and the commanders of the Ashuelot and the Ranger. Among the guests was Sir Thomas Wade, the British Minister to Pekin. Mr. Stevens proposed the health of the General in a complimentary speech, and at five they went on board the Ranger to attend a reception. The Ranger, under the inspiration of the officers, was transformed into a fairy scene, and nothing could have been more kind and hospita- ble than the captain and officers. Mrs. Boyd assisted her husband in entertaining his guests. At seven o'clock, as 232 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S the sun was going down, they took their leave of the brill- iant gathering in the Ranger, and steamed to Shanghai. The following letters were exchanged between Gen- eral Grant and the King of Siam, the King of Hawaii and the Viceroy of Canton: Grand Palace, Bangkok, April 20, 1879. My Dear General Grant: I received your kind telegram on leaving Siam, and was very much pleased to hear that you were satisfied with your reception. Your reception was not all I could have wished, for I had not sufficient notice to enable me to prepare much that I desired to prepare, but the good nature of Your Excel- lency and Mrs. Grant has made you excuse the deficiencies. You will now pass on to wealthier cities and more powerful nations, but I depend on your not forgetting Siam, and from time to time I shall write to you, and hope to receive a few words in reply. I shall certainly never forget the pleasure your visit has given me, and shall highly prize the friendships thus inaugurated with Your Excellency and Mrs. Grant. I send my kind regards to Mr. Borie, wishing him long life, health and happiness, and with the same wish to your- self and Mrs. Grant and your family, I am your faithful friend, Chulalonkorn, King of Siam. To General Grant. United States Steamer Ashuelot, ) Near Shanghai, May 16, 1879. ) To His Majesty The King of Siam. Dear Sir: Just before leaving Hong Kong for Shanghai, I received your very welcome letter of the 20th of April, and avail myself of the first opportunity of reply- ing. I can assure you that nothing more could have been done by Your Majesty and all those about you, to make the visit of myself and party pleasant and agreeable. Every one of us will retain the most pleasant recollections of our visit to Siam, and of the cordial reception we received from yourself and all with whom we were thrown in con- tact. I shall always be glad to hear from you, and to hear of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 233 the prosperity and progress of the beautiful country over which you rule with so much justice and thought for the ruled. My party are all well, and join me in expression of highest regards for yourself and Cabinet, and wishes for long life, health and happiness to all of you, and peace and prosperity to Siam. Your friend, U. S. Grant. Tolani Hall, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, Feb. 18, 1879 Dear Sir : The public newspapers give me the infor- mation that you are at present on your passage to the East, and are intending to return to the Unitd States across the Pacific Ocean. When I was in the United States during your Presidency, you manifested such interest in the pros- perity of my kingdom, that I am proud to think it will not be uninteresting to you to observe the progress we have made, and the general state of the country. I will not remind you that other travelers have found the natural features of the islands, and more especially their volcanic phenomena, interesting, and I entertain a hope that if you accept the invitation which I now tender to you to visit us, as a guest of myself and this nation, on your return to your native country, such a visit will be a pleas- ant rememberance to you. For myself, it will afford me a great gratification to receive and entertain you, and my people will be proud to do everything in their power to make your visit agreeable. I am your friend, Kalakua. To General U. S. Grant. United States Steamer Ashuelot, ) Near Shanghai, May 16, 1879. ) His Majesty, King Kalakaua. Dear Sir : On the eve of my departure from Hong Kong for Shanghai, China, I was put in possession of your very polite invitation of the 18th of February for me to visit your kingdom, and to be the guest of Your Majesty. I can assure you that it would afford me the greatest pleasure to accept your invitation if I could do so. I have always felt the greatest desire to visit the Hawaiian Islands, and cannot say positively yet that I may not be able to do so. But it will be impossible for me to give a 234 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S positive answer until I get to Japan and learn of the run- ning of the vessels between Yokohama and Honolulu, and between the latter place and San Francisco. I shall visit Pekin before going to Japan, and remain in the latter country a month or six weeks. As soon as it is determined whether I am to have the pleasure of visiting your most interesting country or not, I will inform you. Hoping that I may be able to go, Your friend, U. S. Grant. To His Excellency, the Late President: It has been a high honor and a source of the deepest satisfaction to myself, the high provincial authorities and the gentry and people of Canton, that Your Excellency, whom we have so long desired to see, has been so good as to come among us. Upon learning from you of your early departure, while I dared not interfere to delay you, I had hoped, in company with my associates, to present my humble respects at the moment of } r our leaving. I refrained from doing so in obedience to your command. I have ventured to send a few trifles to your honored wife, which I hope she will be so kind as to accept. I trust that you both will have a prosperous journey throughout all your way, and that you both may be granted many years and abundant good. Should I ever be honored by my sovereign with a mission abroad, it will be my most devout prayer and earnest desire that I may meet you again. I respectfully wish you the fulness of peace. Liu Kun. United States Steamer Ashuelot, } Near Shanghai, China, May 16, 1879. f His Excellency, the. Viceroy of Kwangtung and Kwanghai. Dear Sir: Before leaving Hong Kong for more ex- tended visits through the Celestial Empire, I was placed in possession of your very welcome letter giving expression to the best wishes of Your Excellency and of all the high officials in Canton for myself and mine. Since then it has been my good fortune to visit Swatow and Amoy, both, I understand, under Your Excellency's government, and have received at each the same distinguished reception accorded at Canton. Myself and party will carry with us from China TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 235 the most pleasant recollections of our visit to the country over which you preside, and of the hospitalities received at your hands. Mrs. Grant desires to thank you especially for the beau- tiful specimens of Chinese work which you presented to her. With the best wishes of myself and party for your health, long life and prosperity, and in hopes that we may meet again, I am your friend, U. S. Grant. General Grant's welcome at Shanghai was a fitting climax to the extraordinary reception he had received in China. The story of his two-days' residence here is a story of festivals and pageantry, culminating in the cele- bration and reception by the Governor and Council. As the General and party came to the spot selected for land- ing, the banks of the river were thronged with Chinamen, and at least one hundred thousand lined the bank. At three o'clock precisely the barge of the Ashuelot was manned, the American flag was hoisted at the bow, and General Grant, accompanied by Mrs. Grant, Mr. Borie, Colonel Grant, Mr. Holcombe, Acting Minister at Pekin; Mrs. Holcombe, Consul-General Bailey, and Dr. Keating, embarked. As the boat slowly pulled toward the shore the guns of the Ashuelot thundered out a national salute, while the other men-of-war manned the yards. In a few minutes the boat came to the landing, which was covered with scarlet cloth. Mr. Little, Chairman of the Municipal Council, and the committee, shook hands with the General, and the procession marched into the building. As General Grant entered, the audience rose and cheered heartily. On reaching the seat prepared for him he was presented to the Chinese Governor, who had come to do his part in the re- ception. The Governor was accompanied by a delegation of mandarins of high rank. The band played " Hail, Columbia," and after the music and cheering ceased, Mr. Little advanced and read the following: address: 236 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S Shanghai, May 17, 1879. To General U. S. Grant. Sir: On behalf of this community I have the honor of welcoming you to Shanghai. In this the easternmost commercial settlement of the continent the lines that unite the old and new worlds meet, and here we on the eastern edge of the oldest empire in the world appropriately greet an illustrious representative of the great Republic of the New World. Devoted as we are to trade, we have little to show that is of interest to the ordinary traveler. But as the head for two periods of a great cosmopolitan, commercial state, we trust that you will find something to interest you in this small commercial republic, itself as cosmopolitan as the great country from which you come. We thank you for coming to visit us. We trust that you will find that we have done all in our power to make your visit pleasant. We wish for you a future as happy and distinguished as your past, and that after you leave us you will remember with pleasure this little band of self- governed representatives of all States, united in peaceful pursuits, and furthering, we believe, not without success, the cause of progress in this country. I have the honor to be, sir, on behalf of the foreign community of Shanghai, your obedient servant, R. W. Little, Chairman of the Committee. After a moment's pause, General Grant, speaking in a low, conversational tone of voice, said: "Ladies and Gentlemen: — I am very much obliged to you for the hearty welcome which you have paid me, and I must say that I have been a little surprised, and agreeably surprised. I have now been a short time in the country of which Shanghai forms so important a part in a commercial way, and I have seen much to interest me and much to instruct me. I wish I had known ten years ago what I have lately learned. I hope to carry back to my country a report of all I have seen in this part of the world, for it will be of interest and possibly of great use. I thank you again for the hearty welcome you have given me." TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 237 The speech over, there were other presentations, and General Grant was escorted to his carriage. There was a guard of honor composed of sailors and marines from the American and French men-of-war, and the Volunteer Rifles of Shanghai. On Monday night General Grant went to the house of Mr. Cameron to witness a torchlight procession and illumi- nation in his honor. The town had been agog all day pre- paring for the illumination. The two occasions on which Shanghai had exerted herself to welcome and honor a guest, were on the visits of the Duke of Edinburgh and the Grand Duke Alexis. The display in honor of General Grant far surpassed these, and what made it so agreeable was the heartiness with which English, Americans, French, Germans and Chinese all united. The scene as the General drove out into the open street was bewildering in its beauty. Wherever you looked was a blaze of light and fire, of rockets careering in the air, of Roman lights and every variety of fire. The ships in the harbor were a blaze of color, and looked as if they were pieces of fireworks. The lines of the masts, the rig- ging and the hulls were traced in flames. The Monocacy was very beautiful, every line from the bow to the topmast and anchor chain hung with Japanese lanterns. This grace- ful, blending mass of color thrown upon the black evening sky was majestic, and gave an idea of a beauty in fire hitherto unknown to the visitors. " Never before," said the morning journal — " has there been such a blaze of gas and candles seen in Shanghai." At ten the General returned to the house of Mr. Cameron, and from there reviewed the firemen's procession. Each engine was preceded by a band, which played Ameri- can airs. After the procession passed and repassed, there was a reception in Mr. Cameron's house, and at midnight the General drove home to the Consulate. So came to an 238 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S end a wonderful day — one of the most wonderful in the history of General Grant's tour around the world. As the Ashuelot came into the Peiho River, the forts fired twenty-one guns, and all the troops were paraded. A Chinese gunboat was awaiting, bearing Judge Denny, our Consul, and Mr. Dillon, French Consul and Dean of the Consular corps. As General Grant and party came near Tientsin the scene was imposing. Wherever they passed a fort twenty-one guns were fired. All the junks and ves- sels were dressed in bunting. A fleet of Chinese gunboats formed in line, and each vessel manned yards. The boom- ing of the cannon, the waving of the flags, the manned yards, the multitude that lined the banks, the fleet of junks massed together and covered with curious lookers-on, the stately Ashuelot, carrying the American flag at the fore, towering high above the slender Chinese vessels and an- swering salutes gun for gun ; the noise, the smoke, the glit- ter of arms, the blending and waving of banners and flags which lined the forts and the rigging like a fringe — all combined to form one of the most vivid and imposing pageants of their journey. The General stood on the quarter-deck, with Commander Johnson, Mr. Holcombe, Judge Denny and Mr. Dillon, making acknowledgments by raising his hat as he passed each ship. As they came near the landing, the yacht of the Viceroy, carrying his flag, steamed toward them, and as soon as their anchor found its place hauled alongside. First came two mandarins carrying the Viceroy's card. General Grant stood at the gangway, accompanied by the officers of the ship, and as the Viceroy stepped over the side of the Ashuelot the yards were manned and a salute was fired. Judge Denny, ad- vancing, met the Viceroy and presented him to General Grant as the great soldier and statesman of China. The Viceroy presented the members of his suite, and the Gen- eral, taking his arm, led him to the upper deck, where the TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 239 two Generals sat in conversation for some time, while tea and cigars and wine were passed around in approved Chinese fashion. The great Viceroy, perhaps to-day the most powerful subject in China, had taken the deepest interest in the coming of General Grant. He was of the same age as the Gen- eral. They won their victories at the same time, the South- ern rebellion ending in April, the Taeping rebellion in July, 1865. While General Grant was making his progress in India, the Viceroy followed his movements, and had all the particulars of the iourney translated. As soon as the General reached Hong Kong, our Consul, Judge Denny, conveyed a welcome from the Viceroy. When questions were raised as to the reception of the General in Tientsin, the Viceroy ended the matter by declaring that no honor should be wanting to the General, and that he himself would be the first Chinaman to greet him in Tientsin and welcome him to the chief province of the empire. Between General Grant and the Viceroy friendly relations grew up, and while in Tientsin they saw a great deal of each other. The Viceroy had said that he did not care merely to look at, or even to make his acquaintance, but to know him well and talk with him. The Viceroy is known among the most advanced school of Chinese statesmen, anxious to introduce all the improvements of the Western world, to strengthen and develop China. This subject so dear to him was one that the General has, whenever he has met Chinese statesmen, tried to impress upon their minds — the necessity of developing their country, and of doing it them- selves. The General formed a high opinion of the Viceroy as a statesman of resolute and far-seeing character. This opinion was formed after many conversations — official, ceremonial and personal. The visit of the Viceroy to the General was returned next day in great pomp. There was 24O GENERAL U. S. GRANTS a marine guard from the Ashuelot. They went to the viceregal palace in the Viceroy's yacht, and as they steamed up the river every foot of ground, every spot on the junks, was covered with people. At the landing, troops were drawn up. A chair lined with yellow silk, such a chair as is only used by the Emperor, was awaiting the General, As far as the eye could reach, the multitude stood expect- ant and gazing, and they went to the palace through a line of troops, who stood with arms at a present. Amid the firing of guns, the beating of gongs, the procession slowly marched to the palace door. The Viceroy, surrounded by his mandarins and attendants, welcomed the Geneial. At the close of the interview General Grant and the Viceroy sat for a photograph. This picture Li-Hung' Chang wished to preserve as a memento of the General's visit, and it was taken in one of the palace rooms. A day or two later there was a ceremonial dinner given in a temple. The hour was noon, and the Viceroy invited several guests to meet the General. The dinner was a stupendous, princely affair, containing all the best points of Chinese and European cookery, and, although the hour was noon, the afternoon had far gone when it came to an end. Before it ended, Mr. Detring, on behalf of the Viceroy, arose and read this speech: " Gentlemen : It has given me great pleasure to welcome you as my guests to-day, more especially as you aid me in showing honor to the distinguished man who is now with us. General Grant's eminent talents as a sol- dier and a statesman, and his popularity while chief ruler of a great country, are known to us all. I think it may be said of him now, as it was said of Washington a century ago, that he is " first in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." His fame, and the admiration and respect it excites, are not confined to his own country, as the events of his present tour around the world will TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 241 prove, and China should not be thought unwilling to wel- come such a visitor. I thank the General for the honor he has conferred upon me. I thank you all, gentlemen, for the pleasure you have given me to-day, and I now ask you to join me in drinking the health of General Grant, and wishing him increasing fame and prosperity." The Viceroy and all his guests arose and remained standing while Mr. Detring read this speech. At the close, the Viceroy lifted a glass of wine, and, bowing to the Gen- eral, drank the toast. General Grant then arose and said: "Your Excellency and Gentlemen of the Consular Corps: I am very much obliged to you for the welcome I have received in Tientsin, which is only a repetition of the kindness shown to me by the representa- tives of all nations since I came within the coasts of China. I am grateful to the Viceroy for the especial consideration which I have received at his hands. His history as a sol- dier and statesman of the Chinese Empire has been known to me, as it has been known to all at home who have fol- lowed Chinese affairs, for a quarter of a century. I am glad to meet one who has done such great service to his country. My visit to China has been full of interest. I have learned a great deal of the civilization, the manners, the achievements, and the industry of the Chinese people, and I shall leave the country with feelings of friendship toward them, and a desire that they may be brought into relations of the closest commercial alliance and intercourse with the other nations. I trust that the Viceroy will some time find it in his power to visit my country, when I shall be proud to return, as far as I can, the hospitality I have received from him. Again thanking your Excellency for your reception, and you, gentlemen of the Consular corps, for your kindness, I ask you to join with me in a toast to the prosperity of China and the health of the Viceroy." When this speech was ended there was tea, and then 16 24- GENERAL U. S. GRANTS came cigars. The Viceroy had arranged for a photograph of the whole dinner party. So their portraits were taken in the room where they had dined, the Viceroy and the General sitting in the middle, beside a small tea table. On the side of the General were the European, on that of the Viceroy the Chinese, members of the party. This func- tion over, they returned to their yacht amid the same cere- monies as those which attended their coming, and steamed back to the Consulate, the river still lined with thousands of Chinamen. There was a fete at the French Consulate — it was made brilliant by a display of fireworks and also of jugglery; the Viceroy, the General and the ladies of the party sitting on the balcony and watching the performers ; at midnight the fete ended, and, considering the small colony and the resources possible to so limited a company, was a complete success. After enjoying a delightful series of receptions, dinners and fetes, the General and party bid farewell to Tientsin, and embarked in a large, clumsy boat, called a mandarin's boat, for Pekin, one hundred and fifty miles from Tientsin. After a tiresome journey, on the third day their boats tied up to the bank at the village of Tung Chow. At this point the party were carried in chairs to Pekin, arriving at midday. After a severe and uncomfort- able ride of five hours they entered the Legation, and met a grateful and gracious welcome. On the evening of their arrival the American residents in Pekin called in a body on the General to welcome him and read an address. Dinner over, the General and party entered the Legation parlors and were presented to the small colony of the favored people who have pitched their tents in Pekin. The members of this colony are mission- aries, members of the customs staff, diplomatists and one or two who have claims or schemes for the consideration of the Chinese government. After being introduced to the Gen- TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 243 eral and party, Dr. Martin, the President of the Chinese English University, stepped forward and read the following address: "Sir: Twenty years ago the American flag for the first time entered the gates of this ancient capital. For the greater part of that time your countrymen have been residing here under its protecting folds, and it is with feel- ings of no ordinary type that we gather ourselves beneath its shadow this day to welcome your arrival; because to you, sir, under God, it is due that its azure field had not been rent in fragments and its golden stars scattered to the winds of heaven. Having borne that banner through a career of victory which finds few parallels in the page of history, it was your high privilege to gather around it in a new cemented union the long discordant members of our national family. Occupying the most exalted position to which it was possible for you to be elevated by the voice of a grateful people, your strength was in the justice and* moderation of your administration, a force more potent than that of armed cohorts. After conferring on our country these inestimable benefits, as its leader in war and its guide in the paths of peace, we reflect with pride that you have shown the world how a great man can descend from a lofty station and yet carry with him the homage of his people and the admiration of mankind. As you travel from land to land, everywhere welcomed as the citizen of a wider commonwealth than that of our native country, we cannot forget that your visits to their shores possess an in- ternational character of which it is impossible to divest them. You are honored as the highest representative of our country who has ever gone beyond her borders, and America is the more respected for having given birth to such a son. Your presence here to-day directs the atten- tion of this venerable empire to the great republic from which you come. It will also have the effect of turning 244 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS the eyes of our countrymen toward the teeming millions of Eastern Asia; and fervently do we trust that it will help to impress them with the obligations of justice and human- ity in their dealings with the people of China. Your antecedents, sir, leave us in no doubt as to the policy that would meet your approval. Hoping that your influence may contribute to the adjustment of difficulties which threaten to react so disastrously on American interests in China, and that thereby you will add another to the many laurels that crown your brow, we hail your visit as both op- portune and auspicious, and again with one heart we bid you welcome to the capital of China. «W. A. P. Martin, H. Blodget, D. C. McCoy, H. B. "Morse, C. C. Moreno, J. H. Pyke, W. F. Walker, H. H. Lowry, J. H. Roberts, W. C. Noble, Chester Holcombe. "Pekin, June 3, i8jgP The General, in a quiet, conversational tone, said he was always glad to meet his fellow countrymen, and the kind words in which he had been welcomed added to the pleas- ure which such a meeting afforded in Pekin. The Ameri- cans were a wonderful people, he said, smiling, for you found them everywhere, even here in this distant and in- accessible capital. He was especially pleased with the allusion in the address to the fact that in America a career was possible to the humblest station in life. His own career was one of the best examples of the possibilities open to any man and every man at home. That feature in America he was proud to recognize, for it was one of the golden principles of our government. The General again thanked the delegation for their kindness, wished them all pros- perity in their labors in China, and a happy return to their homes, where he hoped some day to meet them. Within an hour after the General's arrival, he was waited upon by the members of the Cabinet, who came in a body, accompanied by the military and civil Governors of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 245 Pekin. These are the highest officials in China, men of grace and stately demeanor. They were received in Chi- nese fashion, seated around a table covered with sweet- meats, and served with tea. The first Secretary brought with him the card of Prince Kung, the Prince Regent of the Empire, and said that His Imperial Highness had charged him to present all kind wishes to General Grant, and to express the hope that the trip in China had been pleasant. The Secretary also said that, as soon as the Prince Regent heard from the Chinese Minister in Paris that General Grant was coming to China, he sent orders to the officials to receive him with due honor. The General said that he had received nothing but honor and courtesy from China, and this answer pleased the Secretary, who said he would be happy to carry it to the Prince Regent. General Grant did not ask an audience of the Emperor. The Emperor is a child seven years of age, at his books, not in good health, and under the care of two old ladies, called the Empresses. When the Chinese Minister in Paris spoke to General Grant about audience, and his regret that the sovereign of China was not of age that he might per- sonally entertain the ex-President, the General said he hoped no question of audience would be raised. He had no personal curiosity to see the Emperor, and there could be no useful object in conversing with a child. As soon as General Grant arrived at Pekin, he was met by the Secretary of State, who brought the card of Prince Kung, and said His Imperial Highness would be glad to see General Grant at any time. The General named Lie succeeding day, at three. The General and party left the Legation at half past two. The way to the Yamen was over dirty roads, and through a disagreeable part of the town, the day being warm. When they came to the court-yard of the Yamen, the Secretaries and a group of mandarins received the General and his 246 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S party, and escorted them into the inner court. Prince Kung, who was standing at the door, with a group of high officers, advanced and saluted the General, and said a few words of welcome, which were translated by Mr. Hol- combe, the acting Minister. The Prince saluted General Grant in Tartar fashion, looking at him for a moment with an earnest, curious gaze, like one who had formed an idea of some kind and was anxious to see how far his ideal had been realized. The sun was beating down, and the party passed into a large, plainly furnished room, where was a table laden with Chi- nese food. The Piince, sitting down at the centre, gave General Grant the seat at his left, the post of honor in China. He then took up the cards, one by one, which had been written in Chinese characters on red paper, and asked Mr. Holcombe for the name and station of each member of General Grant's suite. As princes go, few are more celebrated than Prince Kung. He is a Piince of the imperial house of China, brother of the late Emperor and uncle of the present. In appearance the Prince is of middle stature, with a sharp, narrow face, a high forehead — made more prominent by the Chinese custom of shaving the forehead — and a changing, evanescent expression of countenance. He has been at the head of the Chinese government since the English invasion and the burning of the Summer Palace. He was the only Prince who remained at his post at that time, and consequently when the peace came it devolved upon him to make it. This negotiation gave him a European celebrity, and a knowledge of Europeans that was of advantage. European powers have preferred to keep in power a prince with whom they have made treaties before. In the politics of China, Prince Kung has shown courage and ability. When the Emperor, his. brother, died, in 1861, a council was formed composed of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 247 princes and noblemen of high rank. This council claimed to sit by the will of the deceased Emperor. The inspiring element was hostility to foreigners. Between this Regency and the Prince there was war. The Emperor was a child — his own nephew — just as the present Emperor is a child. Suddenly a decree coming from the child-Emperor was read, dismissing the Regency, making the Dowager Empress Regent, and giving the power to Prince Kung. This decree Prince Kung enforced with vigor, decision and success. He arrested the leading members of the Regency, charged them with having forged the will under which they claimed the Regency, and sentenced three of them to death. Two of the regents were permitted to commit suicide, but the other was beheaded. From that day, under the Empresses, Prince Kung has been the ruler of China. General Grant could not remain long enough in the Yamen to finish the dinner, as he had an engagement to visit the college for the teaching of an English education to young Chinese. This institution is under the direction of Dr. Martin, an American, and the buildings adjoin the Yamen. Consequently, on taking leave of the Prince, who said he would call and see the General at the Lega- tion, they walked a few steps, and were escorted into the classroom of the College. Doctor Martin presented Gen- eral Grant to the students and professors, and one of the students read the following address: "General U. S. Grant, ex- President of the United States: "Sir: We have long heard your name, but never dreamed that we would have an opportunity to look on your face. Formerly the people of your Southern States rebelled against your government and nearly obtained pos- session of the land, but, through your ability in leading the national forces, the rebel chief was captured and the coun- try tranquilized. Having commanded a million of men 248 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S and survived a hundred battles, your merit was recognized as the highest in your own land, and your name bee. .me known in every quarter of the globe. Raised to the Presidency by the voice of a grateful people, you laid aside the arts of war and sought only to achieve the victo- ries of peace. The people enjoyed tranquility, commerce flourished, manufactures revived, and the whole nation daily became more wealthy and powerful. Your achieve- ments ns a civil ruler are equally great with your military triumphs. Now that you have resigned the Presidency, you employ your leisure in visiting different parts of the world, and the people of all nations and all ranks welcome your arrival. It requires a fame like yours to produce effects like these. We, the students of this college, are very limited in our attainments, but all men love the wise and respect the virtuous. We, therefore, feel honored by this opportunity of standing in your presence. It is our sincere hope that another term of the Presidency may come to you, not only that your own nation may be benefited, but that our countrymen resident in America may enjoy the blessings of your protection. "Wang Fengtsar, tutor in Mathematics. "Wen Hsii, tutor in English. "Na San, tutor in English. "On behalf of the students of Tunguon College. " Kiuang Sit, £ y. 4. m. 16 d. — June 5, iSlQ-^ The General, in response, said: "Gentlemen: I am much obliged to you for your welcome and for the compliments you pay me. I am glad to meet you and see in the capital of this vast and ancient empire an institution of learning based upon English principles, and in which you can learn the English language. I have been struck with nothing so much in my tour around the world as with the fact that the progress of civilization — of our modern civilization — is marked by TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 249 the progress of the English tongue. I rejoice in this fact, and I rejoice in your efforts to attain a knowledge of En- glish speech and all that such a knowledge must convey. You have my warmest wishes for your success in this and in all your undertakings, and my renewed thanks for the honor you have shown me." Prince Kung was punctual in his return of the call of General Grant. He came to the Legation in his chair, and was received by General Grant in the parlors of the Lega- tion. Several officers from the Richmond happened to be in Pekin on a holiday, and the General invited them, as well as the officers of the Ashuelot, who were at the Lega- tion, to receive the Prince. As all the officers were in full uniform, the reception of the Prince became almost an im- posing affair. The Prince was accompanied by the Grand Secretaries, and, as soon as he was presented to the mem- bers of the General's party, he was led into the dining- room, and they all sat around a table, and were given tea and sweetmeats and champagne, During this visit there occurred a remarkable conversation, which may not be without its effect upon the politics of the East. The gen- eral features of this conversation were no less than a prop- osition to utilize the services of General Grant as a peace- maker. In the form of asking General Grant's "advice," and under cover of an anxiety to confer with him, and with a graceful apology for talking business to a visitor out of the harness, this adroit diplomatist engaged, in conversation on the subject of the seizure of the Loochoo Islands by Japan, and the consequent disturbance of friendly relations between Japan and China. "I feel that I should apologize even for the reference," said the Prince, "which I would not have ventured upon, but for our conviction that one who has had so high a place in determining the affairs of the world can have no higher interest than that of furthering 250 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS peace and justice." There can be no handsomer way than this to compel attention and demand assistance; and, when one is thus pressed by a man of Prince Kung's dignity — by the ruler of the greatest aggregation of human creatures of which history has any record — the generous mind perceives that a grand condescension thus presented as a request can- not be put aside. General Grant's own succinct statement of the spirit of the foreign policy of the American govern- ment was also such as to exhibit his sympathy with this fine conception, that a desire to aid the progress of justice in the world should be the first intei'est of a gentleman in whatever circumstances he might be called upon — a senti- ment of knight errantry in statesmanship. Our foreign policy, the General said, is made up of "fair play, con- sideration for the rights of others, respect for international law," which is a handy adaptation to national circumstances of the three points laid down by Justinian's lawyers as sufficient to properly regulate every human life — " honest e vivere, alterum non loedere, suum cuique trlbiiere^ Between two men of great experience, accustomed to deal in the great concerns of human life, and whose minds have taken color from their great functions, it is not strange to find this ready sympathy on such a topic, and the world will not be astonished to hear that General Grant straightforwardly said: "I told the Viceroy at Tientsin that everything I could do in the interest of peace was my duty and my pleas- ure. I can conceive of no higher office for any man." The Prince, when he had finished his conversation, drew toward him a glass of champagne, and, addressing Mr. Holcombe, said he wished to again express to Gen- eral Grant the honor felt by the Chinese government at having received this visit. He made special inquiries as to when the General would leave, the hour of his departure, the ways and periods of his journey. He asked whether there was anything wanting to complete the happiness of TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 25 1 the General, or show the honor in which he had been held by China. In taking his leave, he wished to drink espe- cially the health of General Grant, to wish him a prosper- ous voyage, and long and honorable years on his return home. This sentiment the General returned, and, rising, led the way to the door, where the chair of the Prince and the bearers were in waiting. The other Ministers accom- panied the Prince, and, on taking leave, saluted the Gen- eral in the ceremonious Chinese style. The Prince entered his chair, and was snatched up and carried away by his bearers, the guard hurriedly mounting and riding after. General Grant and party returned to Tientsin by boat, and immediately upon his landing received a message from the Viceroy that he was on his way to call. The General received the Viceroy at the house of Consul Denny. After a warm welcome, together they passed into an inner room and received tea and sweetmeats in Chinese fashion. The Viceroy had received instructions from the Prince Regent to continue the conversation with General Grant on the matter of the issue with Japan. After a long and intensely interesting conversation, and a thorough analysis of the matters at issue, the Viceroy pressed every point to influence the General to act as mediator, laying special stress upon the name and influence of General Grant. The General thought it was a diplomatic question, and could be settled through the good offices of ministers of other nations. The Viceroy claimed that it was not a diplomatic question, as Japan had refused to notice any communication from China; consequently there was no chance of reaching a solution by the ordinary methods of diplomacy. How can you talk to ministers and governments about matters which they will not discuss? But when a man like General Grant comes to China and Japan, he comes with an authority which gives him power to make peace. In the interest of peace, China asks the General to interest himself. China 252 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S cannot consent to the position Japan has taken. On that point there is no indecision in the councils of the govern- ment. The Viceroy had no fear of Japan or of the con- sequences of any conflict which Japan would force upon China. General Grant said his hope and belief were that the difficulty would end peacefully and honorably. He appre- ciated the compliment paid him by the Chinese govern- ment. The Viceroy and Prince Kung overrated his power, but not his wish, to preserve peace, and especially to prevent such a deplorable thing as a war between China and Japan. When he reached Japan he would confer with Mr. Bing- ham and see how the matter stood. He would study the Japanese case as carefully as he proposed studying the Chinese case. He would, if possible, confer with the Jap- anese authorities. What his opinion would be when he heard both sides he could not anticipate. If the question took such a shape that, with advantage to the cause of peace and without interfering with the wishes of his own gov- ernment, he could advise or aid in a solution, he would be happy, and, as he remarked to Prince Kung, this happiness would not be diminished if in doing so his action did not disappoint the Chinese government. So came to an end an interesting and extraordinary conversation. Pleasant, notably, were General Grant and party's rela- tions with the great Viceroy, whose kindness seemed to grow with every hour, and to tax itself for new forms in which to form expression. Li-Hung Chang's reception of General Grant was as notable an event in the utter setting aside of j)recedents and traditions as can be found in the recent history of China. It required a great man, who could afford to be progressive and independent, to do it. There was probably nothing more notable than the en- tertainment given to Mrs. Grant by the wife of the Vice- roy, on the last night of the General's stay in Tientsin. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 253 The principal European ladies in the colony were invited. Some of these ladies had lived in Tientsin for years, and had never seen the wife of the Viceroy — had never seen him except through the blinds of the window of his chair. The announcement that the Viceroy had really invited Mrs. Grant to meet his wife, and European ladies to be in the company, was even a more transcendent event than the presence of General Grant. Society rang with a discus- sion of the question which, since Mother Eve introduced it to the attention of her husband, has been the absorbing theme of civilization — what shall we wear? The ques- tion was finally decided in favor of the resources of civiliza- tion. The ladies went in all the glory of French fashion and taste. They came back from the viceregal din- ner at about eleven at night, and General Grant and party went immediately on board the Ashuelot. Here the fare- wells to kind friends were spoken, and it was with sincere regret that they said farewell. The Viceroy had sent word that he would not take his leave of General Grant until he was on the border of his dominions and out at sea. He had gone on ahead in his yacht, and, with a fleet of gun- boats, would await the General at the mouth of the river, and accompany him on board the Richmond. Orders had been given that the forts should fire salutes, and that the troops should parade, and the vessels dress with flags. About eleven o'clock in the morning the Ashuelot came up with the viceregal fleet, at anchor under the guns of the Waku forts. As they passed, every vessel manned yards, and all their guns and the guns of the fort thundered a farewell. Three miles out the Richmond was sighted, and the Ashuelot steamed direct toward her, and in a short time the Ashuelot swung around amid the thunder of the guns of the Richmond. At noon the General passed over the sides of the Richmond, and was received by another 254 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S salute. After the General had been received, the ship's barge was sent to the Viceroy's boat, and in a few min- utes returned with Li-Hung Chang. General Grant re- ceived the Viceroy, and again the yards were manned, and a salute of nineteen guns was fired. The Viceroy and his suite were shown into the cabin. Tea was served, and, Li-Hung Chang having expressed a desire to see the vessel, he was taken into every part, gave its whole arrangement, and especially the guns, a minute inspection. This lasted for an hour, and the Vicei'oy re- turned to the cabin to take his leave. He seemed loath to go, and remained in conversation for some time. General Grant expressed his deep sense of the honor which had been done him, his pleasure at having met the Viceroy. He urged the Viceroy to make a visit to the United States, and in a few earnest phrases repeated his hope that the statesmen of China would persevere in a policy which brought them nearer to our civilization. The Viceroy was friendly, almost affectionate. He hoped that General Grant would not forget him; that he would like to meet the General now and then, and if China needed the Gen- eral's counsel he would send it. He feared he could not visit foreign lands, and regretted that he had not done so in earlier years. He spoke of the friendship of the United States as dear to China, and again commended to the Gen- eral and the American people the Chinese who had gone to America. It made his heart sore to hear of their ill usage, and he depended upon the justice and honor of our government for their protection. He again alluded to the Loochoo question with Japan, and begged General Grant would speak to the Japanese Emperor, and in securing jus- tice remove a cloud from Asia which threw an ominous shadow over the East. The General bade the Viceroy fare- well, and said he would not forget what had been said, and TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 255 that he would always think of the Viceroy with friendship and esteem. So they parted, Li-Hung Chang departing amid the roar of our cannon and the manning of the yards, while the Richmond slowly pushed her prow into the rippling waves and steamed along to Japan. CHAPTER XVIII. GENERAL GRANT IN JAPAN. General Grant and party arrived at Nagasaki on June 21, on the United States steamer Richmond, accompanied by the Ashuelot, the latter bringing Judge Denny, Consul at Tientsin, and other friends from China. There was no formal demonstration by foreign residents, further than an address of welcome by the committee of thirteen, chosen to represent all alien nationalities. Frequent entertainments were given by the J-apanese. The Governor of the province gave a state dinner on the evening of the 23d of June, served in French fashion; one that in its details would have done no discredit to the restaurants in Paris. To this dinner the Governor asked Captain Benham, of the Richmond; Commander Johnson, of the Ashuelot, and Lieutenant-Commander Clarke. At the close, His Excellency Utsumi Tadakatsu arose and said : " General Grant and Gentlemen: After a two- years' tour through many lands, Nagasaki has been honored by a visit from the ex-President of the United States. Nagasaki is situated on the western shore of this Empire, and how fortunate it is that I, in my official capacity as Governor of Nagasaki, can greet and welcome you, sir, as you land for the first time on the soil of Japan. Many years ago, honored sir, I learned to appreciate your great services, and during a visit to the United States I was filled with an ardent desire to learn more of your illustrious deeds. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 257 You were then the President of the United States, and little then did I anticipate that I should be the first Governor to receive you in Japan. Words cannot express my feel- ings. Nagasaki is so far from the seat of government that I fear you cannot have matters arranged to your satisfac- tion. It is my earnest wish that you and Mrs. Grant may safely travel through Japan and enjoy the visit." This address was spoken in Japanese. At its close an interpreter, who stood behind His Excellency during its delivery, advanced and read the above translation. When the Governor finished, General Grant arose and said: "Your Excellency, Ladies and Gentlemen: You have here to-night several Americans who have the talent of speech, and who could make an eloquent response to the address in which my health is proposed. I have no such gift, and I never lamented its absence more than now, when there is so much that I want to say about your coun- trv, your people and your progress. I have not been an inattentive observer of that progress, and in America we have been favored with accounts of it from my distinguished friend, whom you all know as the friend of Japan, and whom it was my privilege to send as Minister — I mean Judge Bingham. The spirit which has actuated the mis- sion of Judge Bingham — the spirit of sympathy, support and conciliation — not only expressed my own sentiments, but those of America. America has much to gain in the East — no nation has greater interests — but America has nothing to gain except what comes from the cheerful ac- quiescence of the Eastern people, and insures them as much benefit as it does us. I should be ashamed of my country if its relations with other nations, and especially with these ancient and most interesting empires in the East, were based upon any other idea. We have rejoiced over your progress. We have watched you step by step. We have followed the unfolding of your old civilization, and its 17 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS absorbing the new. You have had our profound sympathy in that work, our sympathy in the troubles which came with it, and our friendship. I hope that it may continue — that it may long continue. As I have said, America has great interests in the East. She is your next neighbor. She is more affected by the Eastern populations than any other power. She can never be insensible to what is doing here. Whatever her influence may be, I am proud to think that it has always been exerted in behalf of justice and kindness. No nation needs from the outside powers justice and kind- ness more than Japan, because the work that has made such marvelous progress in the past few years is a work in which we are deeply concerned, in the success of which we see a new era in civilization, and which we should en- courage. I do not know, gentlemen, that I can say anything more than this in response to the kind words of the Gov- ernor. Judge Bingham can speak with much more elo- quence and much more authority as our Minister. But I could not allow the occasion to pass without saying how deeply I sympathized with Japan in her efforts to advance, and how much those efforts were appreciated in America. In that spirit I ask you to unite with me in a sentiment: * The prosperity and the independence of Japan.' " General Grant, a few minutes later, arose and said that he wished to propose another toast — a personal one — the drinking of which would be a great pleasure to him. This was the health of Judge Bingham, the American Minister to Japan. He had appointed the Judge Minister, and he was glad to know that the confidence expressed in that appointment had been confirmed by the admiration and respect of the Japanese people. When a Minister serves his own country as well as Judge Bingham has served America, and in doing so wins the esteem of the authori- ties and the people to whom he is accredited, he has achieved the highest success in diplomacy. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 259 Mr. Yoshida, the Japanese Minister, arose and asked leave to add his high appreciation of Mr. Bingham, and the value which had been placed on his friendship to Japan by the government. He was proud to bear public tribute to Mr. Bingham's sincerity and friendliness, and to join in drinking his health. Judge Bingham, in response to the sentiments of per- sonal regard offered by Mr. Yoshida, acknowledged the courtesy to himself, and said that he had come hither to join the official representatives of His Majesty the Em- peror, and also the people of Nagasaki in fitting testimo- nials of respect to General Grant, the friend of the United States of America, and the friend of Japan. He had come to Japan as Minister, bearing the commission issued by the distinguished guest of the evening. It had been his en- deavor to faithfully discharge his duties, and in such man- ner as would strengthen the friendship between the two countries, and promote the commercial interests of both. He knew that in so acting he reflected the wishes of the illustrious man who is the guest of the Empire, and the wishes also of the President and people of the United States. "The Government of my country," said Mr. Bingham, " has, by a recent treaty with Japan, manifested its desire that justice may be done, by according to Japan her right to regulate her own commercial affairs, and to do justice is the highest duty, as it is the highest interest, of civil government." On June 24, General Grant was banqueted by the citi- zens in the style of the daimios, the feudal lords of Japan. The place selected was the old temple in the heart of the city. The party numbered about twenty, including Gen- eral Grant and party, Consul Mangum and family, and Consul Denny and family. The Herald correspondent ac- companying General Grant speaks of this dinner as follows: " The dinner was served on small tables, each guest 260 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S having a table to himself. The merchants of the city waited on their guests, and with them a swarm of attend- ants wearing the costumes of Japan. The bill of fare was almost a volume, and embraced over fifty courses. The wine was served in unglazed porcelain wine cups, on white wooden stands. The appetite was pampered in the begin- ning with dried fish, edible seaweeds and isinglass, in some- thing of the Scandinavian style, except that the attempt did not take the form of brandy and raw fish. The first serious dish was composed of crane, seaweed, moss, rice bread and potatoes, which we picked over in a curious way, as though we were at an auction sale of remnants, anxious to rummage out a bargain. The soup, when it first came — for it came many times — was an honest soup of fish, like a delicate fish chowder. Then came strange dishes, as ragout and as soup, in bewildering confusion. The first was called namasu, and embodied fish, clams, chestnuts, rock mush- rooms and ginger. Then, in various combinations, the fol- lowing : duck, truffles, turnips, dried bonito, melons, pressed salt, aromatic shrubs, snipe, egg plant, jelly, boiled rice, snapper, shrimp, potatos, mushroom, cabbage, lassfish, orange flowers, powdered fish, flavored with plum juice and walnuts, raw carp sliced, mashed fish, baked fish, isin- glass, fish boiled with pickled beans, wine, and rice again. This all came in the first course, and as a finale to the course there was a sweetmeat composed of white and red bean jelly cake, and boiled black mushroom. With this came powdered tea, which had a green, monitory look, and suggested your earliest experience in medicine. When the first pause came in the dinner, two of the merchant hosts advanced toward General Grant and read the follow- ing address: — " ' General U. S. Grant : In the name of the citizens of Nagasaki we offer you a sincere welcome to this small town. We feel greatly honored by your visit to Nagasaki, TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 26l and still more so by your becoming our guest this evening. Any outward signs of respect and hospitality we offer you are but a fraction of our kindly feelings toward you, and are quite inadequate to express the great admiration we have for you. On your return to your own great country, after having visited this Eastern Empire, we trust you will carry with you pleasant reminiscences and friendly feelings toward our country and people. We wish you a successful career and a long life and health to enjoy the illustrious name and position you have made for yourself. The dinner at which you have honored us with your com- pany is given in this country to convey from the hosts their well wishes and the friendship they feel toward their honorable guest; and in the hope that a long and sincere intimacy may be promoted between our guest and those we have the honor to represent to-night, we have offered you this poor entertainment. " ' We have the honor to be, with much respect, your most obedient servants, '"Awoki Kixhichiro, "'Matsuda Gongoro. "'June 24, /c?7p.' " ' General Grant arose, and said: " ' Gentlemen : I am highly honored by your address, and also by this sumptuous entertainment. I have enjoyed exceedingly my visit to Japan, and appreciate more than I can say the kindness that has been shown me by all per- sons. But I have enjoyed nothing more than this, because it comes from the citizens of Nagasaki, and is entirely unof- ficial. That I take as an especial coirq^liment, coming as it does from the people and not the government. For while I am deeply gratified for all that your government is doing to render my trip here agreeable and instructive, I have a peculiar pleasure in meeting those who are not in author- ity, who are the citizens of a country. I shall take away 262 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S from Nagasaki the most grateful remembrances of your hospitality and the most pleasant recollections of the beauty of the place. Again accept my sincere thanks for your kindness.' " When the second course was finished — the course that came to an end in powdered tea and sweetmeats, composed of white and red bean jelly cake and boiled black mush- room — there was an interval. All arose from the table and sauntered about on the graveled walk, and looked down upon the bay and the enfolding hills. One never tires of a scene like Nagasaki ; everything is so ripe and rich and old. Time has done so much for the venerable town, the eddies of a new civilization are rushing in upon Nagasaki. The town has undergone vast changes since the day when Dutch merchants were kept in a reservation more secluded than we have ever kept our Indians; when Xavier and his disciples threaded those narrow streets preaching the salva- tion that comes through the blood of Jesus; when Chris- tians were driven at the point of the spear to yon beetling cliff and tumbled into the sea. These are momentous events in the history of Japan. They wei - e merely incidents in the history of Nagasaki. The ancient town has lived on sleepily, embodying and absorbing the features of Eastern civilization, unchanged and unchanging, its beauty expres- sive because it is a beauty of its own, untinted by Euro- peans. We have old towns in the European w r orld. We even speak as if we had a past in fresh America. But what impresses you in these aspects of Eastern develop- ment is their antiquity, before which the most ancient of our towns are but as yesterday. The spirit of ages breathes over Nagasaki, and you cease to think of chronology and see only the deep, rich tones which time has given and which time alone can give. "But while we could well spend our evening strolling over this graveled walk and leaning over the quaint brick TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 263 wall and studying the varied and ever changing scene that sweeps beneath us, we must not forget our entertainment. On returning to the dining-room, we find that the serv- ants have brought in the candles. Before each table is a pedestal, on which a candle burns, and the old temple lights up with a new splendor. To add to this splendor the walls have been draped with heavy silks, embroidered with gold and silver, with quaint and curious legends in the history of Japan. The merchants enter again, bearing meats. Advancing to the centre of the room, and to the Gen- eral, they kneel and press their foreheads to the floor. With this demure courtesy the course begins. Other attendants enter, and place on each table the lacquer bowls and dishes. Instead of covering the tables with a variety of food, and tempting you with auxiliary dishes of water- melon seeds and almond kernels, as in China, the Japanese give you a small variety at a time. Our amiable friend, the Japanese Minister, warned us in the beginning not to be in a hurry, to restrain our curiosity, not to hurry our in- vestigations into the science of a Japanese table, but to pick and nibble and wait — that there were good things coming, which we should not be beyond the condition of enjoying. What a comfort, for instance, a roll of bread would be, and a glass of dry champagne ! But there is no bread and no wine, and our only drink is the hot preparation from rice, with its sherry flavor, which is poured out of a teapot into shallow lacquer saucers, and which you sip, not without relish, although it has no place in any beverage known to your experience. We are dining, however, in strict Jap- anese fashion, just as the old daimios did, and our hosts are too good artists to spoil a feast with champagne. Then it has been going on for hours, and when you have reached the fourth hour of a dinner, even a temperance dinner, with nothing more serious than a hot, insipid, sherry-like rice drink, you have passed beyond the critical and curious into 264 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S the resigned condition. If we had only been governed by the Minister, we might have enjoyed this soup, which comes first in the course, and, as you lift the lacquered top, you know to be hot and fragrant. It is a soup composed of carp and mushroom and aromatic shrub. Another dish is a prepared fish that looks like a confection of cocoanut, but which you .see to be fish as you prod it with your chop- sticks. This is composed of the red snapper fish, and is served in red and white alternate squares. It looks well, but you pass it by, as well as another dish that is more poetic, at least, for it is a preparation of the skylark, wheat- flour cake and gourd. We are not offended by the next soup, which comes hot and smoking, a soup of buckwheat and egg-plant. The egg-plant always seemed to be a vul- gar, pretentious plant, that might do for the trough, but was never intended for the dignity of the table. But buck- wheat in a soup is unfitting, and, allied with the egg plant, is a degradation, and no sense of curious inquiry of investi- gation can tolerate so grave a violation of the harmony of the cable. You push your soup to the end of the table and nip off the end of a fresh cigar, and look out upon the town, over which the dominant universe has thrown the star-sprinkled mantle of night, and follow the lines of light that mark the welcome we are enjoying, and trace the ascending rockets as they shoot up from the hillside to break into masses of dazzling fire and illuminate the heavens for a moment in a rhapsody of blue and scarlet and green and silver and gold. " If you have faith, you will enter bravely into the dish that your silk-draped attendant now places before you, and as he does bows to the level of the table and slides away. This is called oh-hira. The base of this dish is panyu. Panyu is a sea fish. The panyu in itself would be a dish, but in addition we have a fungus, the roots of the lily and the stems of the pumpkin. TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 265 " While our hosts are passing around the strange dishes a signal is made, and the musicians enter. They are maid- ens with fair, pale faces, and small, dark, serious eyes. You are pleased to see that their teeth have not been blackened, as was the custom in past days, and is even now almost a prevalent custom among the lower classes. We are told that the maidens who have come to grace our feast are not of the common singing class, but the daughters of the mer- chants and leading citizens of Nagasaki. The first group is composed of three. They enter, sit down on the floor, and bow their heads in salutation. One of the instruments is shaped like a guitar, another is something between a banjo and a drum. They wear the costume of the country, the costume that was known before the new days came upon Japan. They have blue silk gowns, white collars, and heavily brocaded pearl- colored sashes. The principal in- strument was long and narrow, shaped like a coffin lid, and sounding like a harpsichord. After they had played an overture, another group entered, fourteen maidens simi- larly dressed, each carrying the small banjo-like instru- ment, and ranging themselves on a bench against the wall, the tapestry and silks suspended over them. Then the genius of the artist was apparent, and the rich depending tapestry, blended with the blue and white and pearl, and animated with the faces of the maidens, their music and their songs, made a picture of Japanese life which an artist might regard with envy. You see then the delicate features of Japanese decoration which have bewitched our artist friends, and which the most adroit fingers in vain try to copy. When the musicians enter, the song begins. It is an original composition. The theme is the glory of America and honor to General Grant. They sing of the joy that his coming has given to Japan; of the interest and the pride they take in his fame; of their friendship for their friends across the great sea. This is all sung in Japanese, and we 266 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S follow the lines through the mediation of a Japanese friend who learned his English in America. This anthem was chanted in a low, almost monotonous key, one singer lead- ing in a kind of solo, and the remainder coming in with a chorus. The song ended, twelve dancing maidens enter. They wore a crimson-like overgarment fashioned like pantaloons — a foot or so too long — so that when they walked it was with a dainty pace, lest they might trip and fall. The director of this group was constantly on his hands and knees, creeping around among the dancers, keeping their drapery in order, not allowing it to bundle up and vex the play. These maidens carried bouquets of pink blossoms, artificially made, examples of the flora of Japan. They stepped through the dance at as slow a measure as in a minuet of Louis XIV. The movement of the dance was simple, and the music a humming, thrum- ming, as though the performers were tuning their instru- ments. After passing through a few measures the dancers slowly filed out, and were followed by another group, who came wearing masks — the mask in the form of a large doll's face — and bearing children's rattles and fans. The peculiarity of this dance was that time was kept by the movement of the fan — a graceful, expressive movement, which only the Eastern people have learned to bestow on the fan. With them the fan becomes almost an organ of speech, and the eye is employed in its management at the expense of the admiration we are apt at home to bestow on other features of the amusement. The masks indicated that this was a humorous dance, and when it was over four special performers, who had unusual skill, came in with flowers, and danced a pantomime. Then came four others, with costumes different — blue robes, trimmed with gold — who carried long, thin wands, entwined in gold and red, from which dangled festoons of pink blossoms. " All this time the music hummed and thrummed. To TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 267 vary the show, we had even a more grotesque amusement. First came eight children, who could scarcely do more than toddle. They were dressed in white, embroidered in green and red, wearing purple caps formed like the Phrygian liberty cap, and dangling on the shoulders. They came into the temple enclosure and danced on the graveled walk, while two, wearing an imitation of a dragon's skin, went through a dance and various contortions, supposed to be a dragon at play. This reminded us of the pantomime ele- phant, where one performer plays the front and another the hind legs. In the case of our Japanese dragon the legs were obvious, and the performers seemed indisposed even to respect the illusion. It was explained that it was an ancient village dance, one of the oldest in Japan, and that on festive occasions, when the harvests arc ripe or when some legend or feat of heroism is to be commemorated, they assem- ble and dance it. It was a trifling, innocent dance, and you felt as you looked at it, and, indeed, at all the features of our most unique entertainment, that there was a good deal of nursery imagination in Japanesey