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7
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THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
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SOUTHERN FRANCE
FROM
THE LOIRE TO THE SPANISH AND ITALIAN FRONTIERS
INCLUDIXtl
CORSICA
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
KARL BAEDEKER
WITH U MAPS AND 19 PLAXS
LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER
LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W.
1891
All rights reserved
' Go, little book , God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
rrHE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
SMCK ANNH
DC
81 C
PREFACE.
Ihe chief object of the Handbook for Southern France, which
now appears for the first time and corresponds with the third French
editions of the Midi de la France and the Centre de la France, is
to render the traveller as nearly as possible independent of the ser-
vices of guides, commissionnaires, and inn-keepers, and to enable
him to employ his time and his money to the best advantage.
Like the Editors other Handbooks , it is based on personal
acquaintance with the country described, a great part of which has
beeri^ repeatedly explored with the view of assuring accuracy and
freshness of information. For the improvement of this new work
the Editor confidently looks forward to a continuance of those va-
luable corrections and suggestions with which (travellers have been
in the habit of favouring him, and for which he owes them a deep
debt of gratitude.
The contents of the Handbook are divided into Five Sections
(I. South -M''estern France to the Pyrenees-, II. The Pyrenees; III.
South-Eastern France as far as the Rhone, and Auvergne; IV. The
French Alps; V. C^vennes, Valley of the Rhone, Provence, and
Corsica) , each of which may be separately removed from the book
by the traveller who desires to minimise the bulk of his luggage.
To each section is prefixed a list of the routes it contains, so that
each forms an approximately complete volume apart from the general
table of contents.
On the Maps and Plans the utmost care has been bestowed,
and it is hoped that they will often be of material service to the
traveller, enabling him at a glance to ascertain his bearings and
select the best routes.
Ti PREFACE.
Heights and Distances are given in English measurement.
It may , however , be convenient to remember that 1 kilometre is
approximately equal to Vs Engl. M., or 8 kil. = 5 M. (nearly). See
also p. xxiv.
In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-class hotels and
those of humbler pretensions. The latter may often be selected by
the 'voyageur en gargon' with little sacrifice of real comfort, and
considerable saving of expenditure. Those which the Editor, either
from his own experience, or from an examination of the numerous
hotel-bills sent him by travellers of different nationalities, believes
to be most worthy of commendation, are denoted by asterisks. It
should, however, be borne in mind that hotels are liable to constant
changes , and that the treatment experienced by the traveller often
depends on circumstances which can neither be foreseen nor con-
trolled. Although prices generally have an upward tendency, the
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the traveller to
form a fair estimate of his expenditure.
To hotel-proprietors , tradesmen , and others the Editor begs to
intimate that a character for fair dealing ajid courtesy towards tra-
vellers forms the sole passport to his commendation , and that ad-
vertisements ot every kind are strictly excluded from his Hand-
books. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons representing
themselves as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks.
CONTENTS.
Introduction.
tage
1. Language xii
II. Money. Travelling Expenses xii
III. Period and Plan of Tour xiii
IV. Passports. Custom House. Octroi xv
V. Railways. Diligences. Carriages xvi
VI. Hotels, Restaurants, aiid Caf^s xviii
VII. Public Buildings and Collections xx
Vlll. Walking Tours. Guides. Horses xxi
IX. tost and Telegraph Offices . xxiii
X. Weights and Measures xxiv
XI. Maps XXV
Southern France.
I. South-western France to the Pyrenees,
Route
1. From Tours (Paris) to Bordeaux 2
I. From Tours to Poitiers 2
II. From Poitier to Angouleme 7
111. From Angouleme to Bordeaux 11
2. From Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne 12
3. From Poitiers to La Rochelle (and Rochefort) .... 18
4. From Nantes to Bordeaux 23
a. Via Clisson and La Rochelle 23
b. Via Challans and La Rochelle 29
.0. From Orleans (Paris) to Bordeaux via Perigueux ... 30
I. From Orleans to Limoges . 30
II. From Limoges to Bordeaux via Perigueux 38
6. Bordeaux 41
7. From Bordeaux to Royaii 52
a. By the Medoc Railway 52
b. By the Gironde 54
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon 55
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz 58
vm CONTENTS.
Route Pago
10. From Bordeaux to Cette (Montpellier) 63
I. Fom Bordeaux to Toulouse 63
II. From Toulouse to Cette 79
11. From Perigueux to Tarbes (Pyrenees) 87
I. From Pe'rigueux to Agen 87
II. From Agen to Tarbe.s 89
12. From Limoges (Paris) to Toulouse 91
13. From Capdenac to Rode?, and to B^ziers or Montpellier . 97
II. The Pyrenees.
14. From Bayonne to San Sebastian 101
15. From Bayonne to Toulouse 105
I. From Bavonne to Pau 105
II. From Pail to Toulouse - . .110
16. From Pau to Olorou.'Vall^e dAspe 115
17. Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, and their Environs . . . 118
I. From Pau to Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes .... 118
II. Eaux-Bonnes 119
III. Eaux-Chaudes 122
18."_Cauterets and its Environs 125
I. From Lourdes to Cauterets 125
II. Cauterets [ 126
III. Excursions 130
19. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environs 135
'I. From Lourdes to Luz and St. Sauveur 135
II. Luz and St. Sauveur 135
III. Excursions 137
20. Bareges and its Environs 141
I. From Lourdes to Bareges 141
II. Bagneres 141
III. Excursions 143
21. Bagneres-de-Bigorre and its Environs 125
I. From Tarbes to Bagneres-de-Bigorre 145
II. Bagneres-de-Bigorre 146
III. Excursions 148
22. Bagneres-de-Luchon and its Environs 150
I. From Montrejeau (Tarbes) to Bagneres-de-Luchon . . . 150
II. Bagneres-de-Luchon 151
III. Excursions 154
23. From Boussens (Toulouse or Tarbes) to Aulus via St. Girons 162
24. From Toulouse to Foix, Tarascon, Ussat, and Ax . . . 164
25. From Carcassonne to Quillan. Upper Valley of the Aude.
Valley of the Rebenty 170
26. The Eastern Pyrenees 172
I. From Karbonne to Perpignan and Port-Bou 172
II. From Perpignan to Prades and to Puyeerda 17(j
III. From Perpignan to Amelie-les-Bains and to La Preste 179
CONTENTS. IX
III. South-Eastern France as far as the Rhone, and Auvergne.
Uoute I'a^e
27. From Dijon (Paris) to Lyons 182
28. From Macon (Paris) to Geneva 188
a. Via Bourg, Amberieu, and Culoz (Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, 188
b. Via Bourg and Nantua 190
29. From Nevers (Paris) to Lyons 192
a. Via Eoanne and Tarare 192
b. Via Roanne and St. Etienne. Ligne d'Annonay . . . 197
30. From Nevers (Paris) to Vichy and to Thiers (St. Etienne) . 199
31. From Nevers (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand and Le Puy . . 204
32. From Orleans (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand via Bourges . 20(j
33. Lyons 210
34. From Lyons to Bordeaux 224
a. Via Roanne, Montlucon, and Limoges 224
b. Via St. Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, and Tville. Auvergne. 226
I. From Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand 226
II. From Clermont-Ferrand to Tulle. Northern Auvergne 239
III. From Tulle to Bordeau.x via Perigueux 247
35. From Lyons to Toulouse via Le Puy and Aurillac. Southern
Auvergne . . .■ 247
IV. The French Alps,
36. From Lyons to Geneva 260
37. From Lyons to Aix-les-Bains 264
38. From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy and Geneva 266
39. From Bellegarde and Geneva to Chamonix 267
I. Via Annemasse and Cluses 267
II. Via Annemasse, Bouveret, Martigny, and the Col de Balme 271
40. Chamonix and its Environs 274
41. Mont Blanc 280
42. From Chamonix into the Valais 286
a. From Chamonix to Martigny via the Tete-Noire . . . 287
b. From Chamonix to Vernayaz via Finhaut and Salvan . 289
43. Annecy and its Environs 290
44. From Lyons to Chambery 295
a. Via St. Andre'-du-Gaz 295
b. Via Culoz and Aix-les-Bains 296
45. From Chambery to Albertville and Moutiers (Tarentaise) . 297
46. From Moutiers to Tignes via Bourg-St. Maurice . . . 300
47. From Moutiers to Pralognan 306
48. From Chambery to the Maurienne ....,.., 312
a. From Chambe'ry to Modane (Turin) 312
b. Upper Valley of the Arc and its Mountains .... 315
49. From Lyons to Grenoble (Marseilles) 318
50. From Grenoble to Chambery. Uriage, Allevard, and their
Environs 329
a. From Grenoble to Chambe'ry 329
b. Uriage and its Environs 330
c. Allevard and its Environs 332
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
51. From Grenoble to Briaiiyoii 334
a. By Road 334
h. By Railway 337
52. The Pelvoux Kaiige and its Environs 344
a. ExcTirsions from Le Bourg-d'Oisans, Oz, and Allemont . 345
b. Excursions from St. Christophe and La Berarde . . . 349
c. Excursions from Vallouise 359
d. Excursions from La Grave, Villard-d'Arene, and Le Lauteret 362
e. Excursions from Le Monetier 366
53. Vallee du Guil. Queyras. Monte Vise 367
a. From Mont-Dauphin-Guillestre to Abries 367
b. From Abries to the Monte Viso 369
54. From Grenoble to Digne. Basses Alpes 370
V. C6vennes, Valley of the Rhone, Provence, and Corsica.
55. From Clermont-Ferrand to Nimes viii the Cevcnnes . . 374
56. From Clermont-Ferrand to B^ziers, via St. Flonr and
Millau 377
57. The Gausses and the Canon of the Tarn 381
I. From Marvejols to Mende and Florae 381
II. From Florae to Peyreleau via the Tarn Canon .... 383
III. From Peyreleau to Montpellier- le -Vieux and thence to
Millau by the Valley of the Dourbie 387
58. From Lyons to Nimes 389
a. Via Tarascon, on tlie left bank of the Rhone .... 389
b. Via I^e Teil and Remo\ilins, on the the right bank of the
Rhone 389
c. Via Le Teil and Alais. Vals 392
59. Nimes and its Etivirons 395
60. From Nimes to Montpellier and Cette 401
61. From Lyons to Marseilles by the Valley of the Rhone . . 407
62. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles) 425
63. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles 426
64. Marseilles 430
65. From Marseilles to Ventimiglia (Italy) 438
I. From Marseilles to Toulon (Hyeres) 438
II. From Toulon to Ventimiglia 444
66. Cannes and its P^nvlrons 448
67. Nice and its Environs 450
68. Monaco and Mentone 457
I. Monaco 457
II. Mentone 458
69. Corsica 460
A.jaccio 462
From A.jaccio to Bonifacio 464
From Ajaccio to Bastia 466
From Bastia to Bonifacio 467
From Bastia to r.ngliano. Capo Corso, ,S. Fiorenzo and Calvi 468
Index 469
MAPS AND PLANS.
Maps.
1. SoUTH-WusTEnN Franxe, 1st Sheet, trnm Tours to Burdeaux, liefore
the title-page.
2. South -Western FR\^■CE, 2nd Sheet, from Uordeaux to Perpignan,
p. 98.
3. The Vai.lkb d'Ossau and Vam,ee u'Azun, p. 120.
4. The ENVIRON.S of Cauterets, p. 126.
5. The Knvirons op St. Sauveuh, Hareijes, and Gavarnie, p. 136.
6. The Vallees d'Aure, de LuriioN, and d'Aran, p. 150.
7. Mont Hlanc, p. 274.
S. The Takentai.se anl> Mauriennk, p. 300.
9. The V'ai-leys oe the Romanciie and the Veneon. Peta-oux Range,
p. 344.
10. The Causses, p. 382.
11. The Knvirons oe Nice, p. 454.
12. Corsica, p. 460.
13. South-Kastern France, after the Index.
14. Railway Map ok France, at tlie end of the book.
Flans of Towns.
10.
Page
. 4lO
. 414
. 40
. 206
Ari-es
AVKJNON
Bordeaux
HOURGES
Cannes 448
Ci.ermont-Ferrand .... 231
Orenoble 320
LiMoiiE.s 35
Lyons 210
Marskii-les (town) .... 430
11. Mar.seii,i.es (south portion) 436
12. MONTPELLIEK 401
13. Nice 450
14. NiMEs 396
15. Pau 106
16. Perigueux 39
17. Poitiers 3
18. Toulouse 70
19. Vichy 198
Abbreviations.
K. =z room; L. = light: B. = breakfast; d4j. = dejeuner; D.
^ dinner; S. = supper; A. = attendance; N. =^ north, northern,
etc. : S. = south, etc. ; E. :=: east, etc. ; W. = west, etc. ; M. ==■ Eng-
lish mile; ft. = Engl, foot: fr. = franc; c. = centime.
The letter d with a date, after f lie name of a person, indicates the year
of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows
its height, above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the
principal places on railway-routes and high-roads generally indicates their
distance from the starting-point of the route.
Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.
INTRODUCTION.
I. Language.
A slight acquaintance with French is indispensable for those
who desire to explore the more remote districts of Southern France,
hut tourists who do not deviate from the beaten track will generally
find English spoken at the principal hotels and the usual resorts of
strangers. If, however, they are entirely ignorant of the French
language, they must be prepared occasionally to submit to the ex-
tortions practised by porters, cab-drivers, and others of a like class,
which even the data furnished by the Handbook will not always
enable them to avoid.
II. Money. Travelling Expenses.
Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely
convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France issues
Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and .50 francs, and these
are the only banknotes current in the country. The French Gold
coins are of the value of 100, 50, 20, 10, and 5 francs ; SUrer coins
of 5, 2, 1, V2i '^"cl Vs franc; Bronze of 10, 5, 2, and 1 centime
(100 centimes = 1 franc). 'Sou' is the old name, still in common
u.se, for 5 centimes; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes called 'une
piece de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, ','2 fr. =
10 sous. The currency of Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and Greece
being the same as that of France, Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek
gold and silver coins are received at their full value , and the new
Austrian gold pieces of 4 and 8 florins are worth exactly 10 and
20 fr. respectively. The only foreign copper coins current in France
are those of Italy and occasionally the English penny and halfpenny,
which nearly correspond to the 10 and 5 centime piece respectively.
English banknotes and gold are also generally received at the
full value in the larger towns, except at the shops of the motiey-
<hangers, where a trifling deduction is made. The table at the begin-
ning of the book shows the comparative value of the French, English,
American, and German currencies, when at par. Circular \otes or
Letters of Credit, obtainable at the principal English and American
III. PLAN OF TOUH. xiii
banks, are the most convenient form for the transport of large sums ;
and their value, if lost or stolen, is recoverable.
The traveller should always be provided with small change
(petite monyiaie) , as otherwise he may be put to inconvenience in
giving gratuities, purchasing catalogues, etc.
Expenses. The expense of a tour in Southern France depends
of course on a great variety of circumstances ; but it may be stated
generally that travelling in France is not more expensive than in
most other countries of Europe. The pedestrian of moderate require-
ments , who is tolerably proflcient in the language and avoids the
beaten track as much as possible, may limit his expenditure to
12-15 fr. per diem, while those wlio prefer driving to walking, choose
the dearest hotels, and employ tlie services of guides aiul commis-
sioiinaires must be prepared to spend at least 20-30 fr. daily. Two
or three gentlemen travelling together will be able to journey more
economically than a single tourist, but the presence of ladies gener-
ally adds considerably to the expenses of the party.
III. Period and Plan of Tour.
Season. Most of the districts described in this Handbook may
be visited at any part of the year. The plains between Auvergne
and the Pyrenees, and the more southerly regions (Rhone valley,
Provence, Mediterranean coast, Corsica) are, however, generally dis-
agreeably hot in summer; while, on the other hand, excursions among
the mountains, the Pyrenees and French Alps especially, are scarce-
ly possible except in summer.
Pl.\.n. The traveller is strongly recommended to sketch out a
plan of his tour in advance, as this, even though not rigidly adhered
to, will be found of the greatest use in aiding him to regulate his
movements, to economise his time, and to guard against overlooking
any place of interest. The districts of which the present Handbook
treats are not only richly gifted with natural beauties, they abound
also in architectural monuments of great importance, both ancient
and modern, and contain numerous points of artistic and historic
interest.
The special bent of the traveller must be the chief agent in de-
termining the plan of tour to be selected, but the following short
itineraries may at least sive an idea of the time required for a visit
to the most attractive points. The tourist starting from London will
find no difficulty in adapting the arrangement to his requirements
by beginning at the places most easily reached from England. Au
early start is supposed to be made each morning, but no night-tra-
velling is assumed. The various tours given below are arranged so
that they may be combined into one comprehensive tour of two motiths
(comp. Maps). The tourist should carefully consult the railway time-
tables in order to guard against detention at uninteresting junctions.
III. PLAN OF TOUR.
a. A Month in South-Western France and the Pyrenees.
Days
1. From Tours to I'oitiers and
AngouUme 1
2, 3. From Angouleme to
Bordeaux 2
4. From Bordeaux to Pau . 1
5, 6. From Pau to Eaux-
Bonnes, Eaux - Chaudes,
etc lV-r2
7. From Pau or Eaux-Bon-
nes to Lourdes and Cau-
terets 1
S-10. Cauterets and its Envi-
7'ons 2-3
11-13. Liiz , SI. Sain-ew\ and
their Environs .... 2-3
14, 15. Bareges and its Envi-
rons 11/.1-2
16. From Bareges to Ba^7i«-«-
de-Bigorre and Bagni-
res-de-Lucfion .... 2
18-21.
Excursions from Ba-
gneres-de-Luchon . . 3-4
22. FromBagneres-de-Luchon
to Toulouse 1
23. From Toulouse to Car-
cassonne 1
24. From Carcassonne to Xar-
bonne and Perpignan . 1
25. From Perpignan to 5^?«e)'S 1
26. From Beziers to Toulouse
and Audi 1
From Auch to Toulouse
and Albi 1
From Albi to Brive and
P^rigueux 1
From Perigueux to A'exon
and Limoges .... 1
From Limoges to Chdteau-
roux, Loches, and Tours
or to Orleans and Paris 1
27
25-30
Three Weeks in Auvergne, the Lozere, and South-Eastern France.
Days
From Mende to the Tarn
Canon, Montpellier-le- Vieux,
and Millau 2-3
Days
1
From Nevers to Moidins and
Vichy
From Vichy to Clermont-Fer-
rand 1
Excursion to Royal and the
Puy-de-Dome 2
From Clermont to Le Mont-
Dore 1
Environs of Le Mont - Dore.
Puy de Sancy 2-3
From Le Mont -Dore to Cler-
mont (Issoire, Brioude) . . 1
From (Clermont) Brioude to
Arrant, Neussargues , St.
Flour, and ifende .... 1
From Millau to Rodez , Cap-
denac, and Aurillac . . .
From Aurillac to Le Puy . .
Le Puy and its Environs . .
From Le Puy via St. Etienne,
or via Annonay and Vienne,
to Lyons
Lyons
From Lyons via Roanne and
Nevers or Macon to Dijon .
1
lS-20
From Dijon to Macon and
Bourg 1
From Bourg to Nanttia and
Geneva 1
From Geneva to Chamonix . 1
Environs of Chamonix . . . 2-3
From Chamonix to La Roche
and Annecy 1
Excursion to Ihe Lac d' Annecy
and to the Semnoz ... 2
From Annecy to Aix-les-Bains
and Chambiry 1
From Chambery to Albert-
ville 1
From Albertville to Mofitiers,
Bridea-les- Bains and Pralo-
gnan 1
Environs of Pralognan . . 2-3
From Pralognan to the Col
c. A Month in Savoy and Oauphind.
Days
Days
2
1
de Vanoise and to Thermi-
gnoH and Modane ....
From Modane to MontmHian
(Chambery) and Grenoble .
Excursion from Grenoble to
the Grande-Chartreuse . .
From Grenoble to La Grave
From La Grave to the Col de
la Lauze and St. Christophe
Environs of St. Christophe and
of La Bh-arde 2-3
From La Berarde to the Col
de la Temple and Vallouise 1
Environs of Vallouise ... 2
From Vallouise to Briangon.
Environs of Briangon . . ,
From Briancon to Gap, Gre-
noble, and Lyons .... 1
From Lvons to Diion ... 1
1
1
27-30
IV. PASSPORTS.
d. A Fortnight in the Ehone Valley and Provence.
Days
Frdui I^yons to Vienne and
Valence 1
Fnim Valence to Orange and
Arignon 1
FrciDi Avignon to Arlef . . 2
From Aries to Marseilles . . 1
From Marseilles to Toulon
and Ilyhrei 1
From Hyeres to Toulon and
Cannes 1
From Cannes to Nice. Envi-
rons 0/ Nice 2
From Nice to Marseilles . .
From Marseilles to Aix and
Avignon
From Avignon to Niines . .
From Nimes to Montpellier
and back to Nimes . . .
Excursion from Nimes to the
Pont <lu (lard (Lafoiix) and
Aigiies-Mortes
From Nimes to Clermotit-Fer-
rand, etc
Days
1
1
1
15
IV. Passports. Custom House. Octroi.
Passports. These documents, though not now obligatory for
British subjects or Americans, are often useful in proving the tra-
veller's identity, procuring admission to museums on days when
they are not open to the public, etc., and they must be shown in
order to obtain delivery of registered letters. Pedestrians in a re-
mote district will often find that a passport spares them much in-
convenience and delay, while for travellers entering Germany from
France , or vice versa , a vis^'d passport is absolutely necessary. In
other cases the ri.'ia of a French ambassador or consul is not needed.
An English Foreign Office passport maybe obtained at the Foreign
Office, from 11 to 4 (fee 2s.), on previous written application , sup-
ported by a clergyman, banker, magistrate, or justice of the peace.
Application for passports may be made to W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet
Street dee Is. 6d.); Lee and Carter, 440 W. Strand; Dorrell & Son,
15 Charing Cross ; Webster & Larkin, 60 Piccadilly ; or E. Stanford,
26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross.
Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de-
tention at the 'douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re-
commended to avoid carrying with them any articles that are not
absolutely necessary. Cigars and tobacco are chiefly sought for by
the custom-house officers. The duty on the former amounts to about
16?., on the latter to 7-lls. per lb. Articles liable to duty shotild
always be 'declared'. Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to
suspicion and may in certain cases be confiscated. The examination
of luggage generally takes place at the frontier-stations, and travellers
should superintend it in person. Luggage registered to Paris is
examined on arrival there.
Octroi. At the entrance to the larger towns an 'Octroi', or muni-
i.'ipal tax, is levied on all comestibles, but travellers' luggage is usu-
ally passed on a simple declaration that it contains no such articles.
The officials arc, however, entitled to see the receipts for articles
liable to duty at the frontier.
XVI V. RAILWAYS.
V. Eailways. Diligences. Carriages.
The network of railways by which France is now overspread con-
sists of lines of an aggregate length of 20,300 M. , belonging to the
Government, to six large companies, and to a large number of small-
er ones. The districts treated in this Handbook are served mainly
by the lines of the Orleans, Midi, and Paris- Lyon -Mediterrane'e
railways, and to a smaller extent by the Government lines (Re'seau
de I'Etat).
The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cl. 18 c.
2nd cl. IS'/a c. , 3rd cl. 10'/2 c. , to which a tax often per cent on
each ticket costing more than 10 fr. is added. The mail trains ('trains
rapides' ) generally convey first-class passengers only, and the express
trains ('trains express') first-class and second-class only. The first-
class carriages are good, but the second-class are inferior to those in
most other parts of Europe and the third-class are rarely furnished
with cushioned seats. The trains are generally provided with smoking
carriages, and in the others smoking is allowed unless any one of
the passengers objects. Ladies' compartments are also provided.
The trains invariably pass each other on the left, so that the traveller
can always tell which side of a station his train starts from. The
speed of the express - trains is about 35-40 M. per hour, but that of
the ordinary trains is often very much less.
Before starting , travellers are generally cooped up in the close
and dusty waiting-rooms, and are not admitted to the platform until
the train is ready to receive them; nor is any one admitted to the
station to take leave of friends without special permission. Tickets
for intermediate stations are usually collected at the "sortie' ; those
for termini, before the station is entered. Travellers within France
are allowed 30 kilogrammes (66 Engl, lbs.) of luggage free of charge :
those who are bound for foreign countries are allowed 25 kilogr. onl>
(55 lbs.); 10 c. is charged for booking. In all cases the heavier lug-
gage must be booked, and a ticket procured for it; this being done,
the traveller need not enquire after his "impedimenta' until he ar-
rives and presents his ticket at his final destination (where they will
be kept in safe custody, several days usually gratis). Where, how-
ever, a frontier has to be crossed, the traveller should see his luggage
cleared at the custom-house in person (comp. p. xv). At most of the
railway-stations there is a consig7ie, or left-luggage office, where a
charge of 10 c. per day is made for one or two packages, and 5 c. per
day for each additional article. Where there is no consigne, the
employes will generally take care of luggage for a trifling fee. The
railway-porters (facteurs) are not entitled to remuneration, but it is
usual to give a few sous for their services. — Interpreters are found
at most of the large stations.
There are no lie/reshment Rooms (Buffets) e,xeept at the principal
stations; and as the viands are generally indifferent, the charges high,
and the stoppages brief, the traveller is advised to provide himself be-
V. RAILWAYS. XVII
♦ orehand wi(h the necessary sustenance and consunn- it at his leisure in
tlie railway-carriage. Baskets containing a cold hinctieon are sold at some
of the butfets lor 3-4 fr.
Sleeping Carriayes (Wagons -Lits) are provided on nearly all the main
lines of the Orleans, Midi, and Paris -Lyon -MMiterran^e systems. Trains
de luxe, with flrawing-room, sleeping, and dining cars (Wagons- Restaurants)
run on certain days, during the season, to the Pyrenees via Bordeau.x and
to Nice via Lyons and Marseilles ; comp. p. 438 and the Indicaieur . The
fares are about SO'/o higher than the ordinary first class fares. Dej. is
provided at about 5 fr., D. at 6 fr., wine extra (half-a-bottle 1 fr.).
The most tru.stworthy information as to the departure of trains
is contained in the Indicateur des Chemins d e Fev. published weekly,
and sold at all the stations (75 c). There are also separate and less
bulky time-tables ('Lirrefs Chaix) for the different lines :d"Orl^ans,
du Midi, etc. (40 c).
Railway time is always that of Paris, which differs considerably
fromthat of the adjacent countries. Thus the German time is 22 min..
the Swiss 26 min., and the Italian 40 min. in advance of French rail-
way time, while Spanish time is 20 min. behind.
Return-tickets (Billets d'aller et refour) are issued by all the
railway -companies at a reduction of 15-40 per cent; but on the
Midi system this privilege is restricted to certain fixed routes. The
length of time for which these tickets are available varies with the
distance and with the company by which they are issued; those is-
sued on Sat. and on the eves of great festivals are available for three
days. The recognised festivals are New Year's Day, Easter Monday,
Ascension Day. Whit-Monday, the 'Fete Nationale' (July 14th), the
Assumption (Aug. 15th), All Saints' Day (Nov. 1st), and Christ-
mas Day.
E.rcnrsion Trains (' Trains dePlaisir') should as a rule be avoided,
as the cheapness of their fares is more than counterbalanced by the
discomforts of their accommodation.
Circular Tour Tirlcefs ('Billetsde Voynyes. C'/rcJtia/res'), available
for 15-45 days, are issued by most of the large companies in summer
at a reduction of 20-85 per cent on the ordinary fares, or even more
if a number of tickets be taken together. There are also a number
of Voyages Circulaires a itine'raires pres (routes arranged by the
railway company) and also Voyages Civcxilaires a itine'raires facul-
tafifs (routes arranged to suit individual travellers), tickets for
which must be applied for at least five days in advance. For details,
see the Indicatexr des Chemins de Fer.
The following are some of the expressions with which the railway-
traveller in France should be familiar: Railway -station, la gare (al.so
Vemltarcadire) : booking-office, le ynichei or bureau; first, second, or third
class ticket, un billet de premiere, de seconde, de troisiime classe ; to take a
ticket, prendre un billet ; to register the luggage, /aice enregistrer les bagagef :
luggage-ticket, bulletin de bagage ; waiting-room, salle d^aitente; refreshment
room, le buffet (third-class refreshment -room , la burette): platform, le
perron, le trottoir ; railway-carriage, le wagon; compartment, le coiupartiinent,
le coup^ ; smoking compartment, fumeurs ; ladies' compartment, dames seules .
guard, conducteur ; porter, /affe«>",- to enter the carriage, »ionter en wagon :
take your seats ! en roiture! alight, deseendre: to change carriages, changer
Baedeker. Southern France. t>
xvin VI. HOTELS.
de voiiure; express train to Calais, le train express pour Calais, Vexpress
lie Calais.
Diligences. The French Diligences , now becoming more and
more rare . are generally slow (5-7 M. per hour) , uninviting , and
inconvenient. The best seats are the three in the Coupe', beside the
driver, which cost a little more than the others and are often engaged
several days beforehand. The Jnte'rieur generally contains six places,
and in some cases is supplemented by the Rotondt, a less com-
fortable hinder-compartment, which, however, affords a good retro-
spective view of the country traversed. The Impe'riale, Banquette,
or roof affords the best view of all and may be recommended in good
weather. It is advisable to book places in advance if possible , as
they are numbered and assigned in the order of application. The
fares are fixed by taritf and amount on an average to about i^j^d.
per mile (coup^ extra). — For short distances the place of the dili-
gences is taken "by Omnibuses, equally comfortless vehicles, in which,
however, there is no distinction of seats. Those which run in con-
nection with the railways have a fixed tariff, but in other cases bar-
gaining is advisable. — Hotel Omnibuses, see p. xix.
Hired Carriages ( Voituresde Louage) may be obtained at all the
principal resorts of tourists at charges varying from 12 to 20 fr. per
day for a single-horse vehicle and from 25 to 30 fr. for a carriage-
and-pair, with a pourboire to the driver of 1-2 fr. The hirers almost
invariably demand more at first than they are willing to take, and a
distinct uiiderstahding should always be come to beforehand. A
day's journey is reckoned at about 30 M., with a rest of 2-3 hrs. at
midday. A return-fee is frequently demanded when the carriage is
quitted at some distance from its home. Tourists may sometimes
be able to avail themselves of return -carriages , which charge not
less than 10-15fr. per day. — Saddle Horses, Asses, and Mules
may also be hired.
VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Caf^s.
Hotels. Hotels of the liighest class, fitted up with every modern
convenience, are found only in the larger towns and in the more
fashionable watering-places, where the influx of visitors is great. In
other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial
characteristics, which might prove rather an attraction than other-
wise were it not for the shameful defectiveness of the sanitary ar-
rangements. The beds, however, are generally clean, and the cuisine
tolerable. It is therefore advisable to frequent none but the leading
hotels in places oi¥ the beaten track of tourists , and to avoid being
misled by the appellation of 'Grand-Hotel', which is often applied
to the most ordinary inns. Soap is seldom or never provided.
The charges of provincial hotels are usually somewhat lowerthan
at Paris, but at many of the largest modern establishments the tariff
is drawn up on quite a Parisian scale. Lights arc not generally
VI. HOTELS. XIX
charged lor, and atteinlaiice is often included in the price of the
bedroom. It is prudent, though not absolutely necessary, to enquire
the charges in advance. The following are the average charges :
room lV2-3fr. ; breakfast or 'premier dejeuner', consisting of 'cafe
au lait', with bread and butter, l-li/4fr. ; luncheon or 'deuxieme
dejeuner', taken about 11 a.m.,2V2-ifr- ;dinner, usually about 6 p.m.,
3-0 fr. Wine is generally included in the charge for dinner, except
in a few towns in the south-east. The second dejeuner will probably
be regarded as superfluous by most English and American travellers,
especially as it occupies a considerable time during the best part of
the day. A slight luncheon at a caf^, which may be had at any hour,
will be found far more convenient and expeditious. Attendance on the
table d'hote is not compulsory, but the charge for rooms is raised if
meals are not taken in the house, and the visitor will scarcely obtain
so good a dinner in a restaurant for the same price. In many hotels
visitors are received 'en pension' at a charge of 6-7 fr. per day and
upwards. The usual fee for attendance at hotels is 1 fr. per day, if
no charge is made in the bill : if service is charged , 50 c. a day in
addition is generally expected.
When the traveller remains for a week or more at a hotel, it is
advisable to pay, or at least call for the account, every two or three
days, in order that erroneous insertions may be at once detected.
Verbal reckonings are objectionable, except in some of the more
remote and primitive districts where bills are never written. A
waiter's mental arithmetic is faulty, and the faults are seldom in
favour of the traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the
bill at the last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions cannot
easily be detected or rectified. Those who intend starting early in
the morning should therefore ask for their bills on the previous
evening.
English travellers often give considerable trouble by ordering
things almost unknown in French usage ; and if ignorance of the
language be added to want of conformity to the customs, misunder-
standings and disputes are apt to ensue. The reader is therefore
recommended to endeavour to adapt his requirements to the habits
of the country, and to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency
in the language as to render himself intelligible to the servants.
Articles of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup-
boards at hotels. The traveller's own trunk is probably safer; but it
is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a receipt
should be required, or to send them to a banker. Doors should be
locked at night.
Travellers who are not fastidious as to their table-companions
will often find an excellent cuisine, combined with moderate charges,
at the hotels frequented by commercial travellers (voyageuvs de com-
merce, commis-voyageurs) .
Many hotels send Omnibuses to meet the trains, for the use ot
b*
XX VII. PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
which Vj-I fr. is charged in the bill. Before taking their seats in
one of these, travellers who are not encumbered with luggage should
ascertain how far off the hotel is, as the possession of an omnibus
by no means necessarily implies long distance from the station. He
should also find out whether the omnibus will start immediately,
without waiting for another train.
Restaurants. Except in the larger towns, there are few pro-
vincial restaurants in France worthy of recommendation to tourists.
This, however, is of little importance, as the traveller may always join
the table d'hote meals at hotels, even though not staying in the
house. He may also dine a la carte, though not so advantageously,
or he may obtain a dinner a prix fixe (3-6 fr.) on giving ^/^-y.^ hr.'s
notice. He should always note the prices on the carte beforehand
to avoid overcharges. The refreshment-rooms at railway-stations
should be avoided if possible (comp. p. xvi): there is often a restau-
rant or a small hotel adjoining the station where a better and cheaper
meal may be obtained.
Caf6s. The Cafe is as characteristic a feature of French pro-
vincial as of Parisian life and resembles its metropolitan prototype
in most respects. It is a favourite resort in the evening, when people
frequent the caf^ to meet their friends, read the newspapers, or play
at cards or billiards. Ladies may visit the better-class caf^s without
dread, at least during the day. The refreshments, consisting of coffee,
tea, beer, Cognac, liqueurs, cooling drinks of various kinds (swbef,
orgeat , i<irop de Groseil.le or de framboise, etc) , and ices, are gen-
erally good of their kind, and the prices are reasonable.
Furnished Houses. — Furnished Houses and Furnished Apart-
ments are numerous in all the chief watering-places and winter-
stations of Southern France, and may be found to suit every purse.
In all cases a personal inspection should be made before hiring:
and the precautions indicated on p. 452 should never be omitted.
As a general rule it is advisable to proceed at first to a hotel, and
thence direct the search for apartments, though if the traveller's re-
quirements are modest, he may sometimes be able to suit himself
at once with a lodging. Not infrequently the hotel-keepers are will-
ing to make special arrangements with travellers purposing to make
a stay of some duration.
"VII. Public Buildings and Collections.
The Churches, especially the more important, are open the whole
day; but, as divine service is tisually performed in the morning and
evening, the traveller will find the middle of the day or the after-
noon the most favourable time for visiting them. The attendance of
the sacristan or 'Suisse' is seldom necessary; the usual gratuity is
1/2 fr. Many of these buildings are under the special protection of
Government as ^Monuments Hisforiques', and the Ministere des
Beaux-.\rts has caused most of these to be carefully restored. It is
VIll. WALKLNG TUUKS. xxi
perhaps not alto^iether superfluous to reiniud visitors that they should
move about in churches as noiselessly as possible to avoid disturb-
ing those engaged in private devotion, and that they should keep
aloof from altars where the clergy are officiating. Other interesting
buildings, such as palaces, chateaux, and castles often belong to the
nuinicipalities and are open to the public with little or no formality.
Foreigners will seldom And any difficulty in obtaining access to
private houses of historic or artistic interest or to the parks attached
to the niansions of the noblesse.
Most of the larger provincial towns of France contain a Muske,
generally comprising a picture-gallery and collections of various
kinds. These are generally open to the public on Sun., and often
un Thurs. also, from 10 or 12 to 4; but strangers are readily admitted
on other days also for a small pourboire. The accounts of the col-
lections given in the Handbook generally follow the order in which
the rooms are numbered, but changes are of very frequent occur-
rence.
VIII. Walking Tours. Guides. Horses.
Walldng Tours. .Many tine points in the part of France of
which the present Handbook treats are accessible to pedestrians
alone, and even where riding or driving is practicable, walking is
often more enjoyable. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a
pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilette, a light
waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be found a sufficient
equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to comfort.
Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch
or game-bag is far less irksome, and its position may be shifted at
pleasure. A pocket-knife with a corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup,
a spirit-flask, stout gloves, and a piece of green crape or coloured
spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow should not
be forgotten. Useful, though less indispensable, are an opera-glass
orsmall telescope, sewing-materials, a supply of strong cord, sticking-
plaster, a small compass, a pocket-lantern, a thermometer, and an
aneroid barometer. The traveller's reserve of clothing should not
exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which can be easily wield-
ed, and may be forwarded from town to town by post.
The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock or staff
shod with a steel point; and for the more difficult ascents an Ice-
Axe. and Rope are also necessary. In crossing a glacier the pre-
caution of using the rope should never be neglected, it should be
securely tied round the waist of each member of the party, leaving
a length of about 10 ft. between each pair. Glaciers should be tra-
versed as early in the morning as possible, before the sun softens
the crust of ice formed during the night over the crevasses. Moun-
taineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, and wine
or spirits for long excursions. The chalets usually afford nothing
XXII VIII. WALKING TOURS.
but milk, cheese, and stale bread. Glacier-water should not be
drunk except in small quantities, mixed with wine or cognac. Cold
milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. One of the best beve-
rages for quenching the thirst is cold tea.
The first golden rule for the walker is to start early. If strength
permits, and a suitable resting-place is to be found, a walk of one
or two hours may be accomplished before breakfast. It is desirable
to reach the end of the day's walk about midday, but if that is not
practicable, rest should be taken during the hottest hours (12-3)
and the journey afterwards continued till 5 or 6 p. m.. when a sub-
stantial meal (evening table d'hote at the principal hotels) may be
partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate the hour
for retiring to rest.
The traveller's ambition often exceeds his powers of endurance,
and if his strength be once over-taxed, he will sometimes be in-
capacitated altogether for several days. At the outset, therefore, the
walker's performances should be moderate, and even when he is in
good training, they should rarely exceed 10 hrs. a day. 'When a
mountain has to be breasted, the pedestrian should avoid 'spurts",
and pursue the 'even tenor of his way' at a steady and moderate
pace (*chi va piano va sano; chi va sano va lontano'). As another
golden maxim for his guidance, the traveller should remember that
when fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases.
The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, UTiless
absolutely necessary. As a rule the night previous to a mountain-
expedition should be spent either at an inn or at one of the club-
huts which the French Alpine Clubs have recently erected for the
convenience of travellers. In the latter case enquiry should be
made beforehand as to the condition and accommodation of the hut.
and whether it is already occupied by a previous party or not. The
convenience of arriving betimes at a hotel, so as to secure good
rooms, etc.. is well worth an extra effort on the march.
Over all the movements of the pedestrian, the weather holds des-
potic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be con-
sulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the wind
from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melting away
of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, and the ascent
of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture, are all signs of fine
weather. On the other hand, it is a bad sign if the distant mountains
are dark blue in colour and very distinct in outline, if the wind blows
up the mountains, and if the dust rises in eddies on the roads. West
winds also usually bring rain.
It may be added that the particulars in the handbook as to the
mountain-expeditions make no claim to absolute and invariable ex-
actitude. The weather, the state of the snow, etc., no less than the
different inclinations and capacities of travellers, must be taken into
account as variable factors.
IX. POST AND TKLEGRAPH. xxiii
Guides. For all important mountain-expeditions guides are in-
d ispensable, except where the contrary is expressly stated ; and, above
all, a glacier should never be crossed without an experienced guide.
Good guides are unfortunately rare: but they are to be found at all
the principal tourist-centres, such as Chamonix, St. Christophe-en-
Oisans, La Grave, Pralognan, Tignes, etc., and. among the Pyrenees,
atCauterets, Gavarnie. Eaux-Bonnes.and Bagneres-de-Luchon. Most
of the guides in the Pyrenees, however, are hardly more than horse-
hirers and organizers of parties on horseback, and not only refuse
to go on foot but insist also on tourists paying for their horses. The
usual fee for a day of 8 hrs. is 6-8 fr.. but on longer or more difficult
expeditions 10 fr. and upwards are charged. At some of the prin-
cipal centres there are guide -societies, with fixed regulations and
tariffs. Though the usual charges for the various expeditions are in-
dicated in the Handbook , the tourist will find it advisable to as-
certain personally the charges beforehand.
Horses and Mnles. Riding is less usual and more expensive
in the Alps than in the Pyrenees. In the former a horse or mule costs
10-12 fr. per day. besides a gratuity of 1-2 fr.. and at Chamonix and
some other places, as much more is charged for the attendant. The
excellent little horses of the Pyrenees may be hired for 6-10 fr. per
day. On the whole, unless the ascent be very long, it is less fatiguing
to ascend on foot than on horseback; while a descent on horseback
is almost invariably uncomfortable and fatiguing, and cannot be re-
commended even to those who are subject to dizziness.
IX. Post and Telegraph Offices.
Post Office. Letters (whether 'paste resfnnte' or to the traveller's
hotel) should be addressed very distinctly . and the name of the
department should be added after that of the town. The offices are
usually open from 7 a.m. in summer, and 8 a.m. in winter, to 9p.m.
Posfe Restante letters may be addressed to any of the provincial
offices. In applying for letters, the written or printed name, and in
the case of registered letters , the passport of the addressee should
always be presented. It is , however, preferable to desire letters to
be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends
residing. Letter-boxes (Boites mix LeJtres\ are also to be found at
the railway -stations and at many public buildings, and stamps
(timbres- foste) may be purchased in all tobacconists' shops. An
extract from the postal tariff is given below; more extensive details
will be found in the Almanach des Pastes et Te'le'graphes.
Ordinary Letters within France, including Corsica, Algeria, and Tunis,
15 c. per 15 grammes prepaid; for countries of the Postal Union 25c. (.The
silver franc and the bronze sou each weigh 5 grammes; 15 grammes, or
three of these coins, are equal to V2 oz. English.) — Registered Letters
(tettres recommandi^es) 25 c. extra.
Post Cards 10 c. each, with card for reply attached, 20 c.
Post Office Orders (mandats de poste) are issued for most countries in
the Postal Union at a charge of 25 c. for every 25 fr. or fraction of 25 fr..
XXIV X. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
tlie uiaxiinum sum for which an order is obtainable being 500 fr. ; for
Great Britain, 20 c. per 10 fr., maximum 252 fr.
Printed Poeperf (imprimes soiix bande): 1 c. per 5 grammes up to the
weight of 20 gr. : 5 c. between 20 and 50 gr. ; above 50 gr. 5 c. for each
50 gr. Or fraction of 50 gr. ; to foreign countries 5 c. per 50 gr. The
wrapper must be easily removable, and must not cover more than one-
third of the packet.
Parcels not e.xceeding 7 lbs. in weight may be forwarded by post at a
moderate rate within France and to some of the other countries of the
Postal Union. To England, parcels not exceeding 3 lbs. (1300 grammes)
I fr. 60 c.; from 3 to 61/2 lbs., 2 fr. 10 c. These parcels should be handed
in at the railway-station or at the offices of the parcel-companies, not at
the post-offices.
Telegrams. For the countries ot Europe and lor Algeria tele-
grams are charged for at the following rates per word : for France
c. (miniiuuui charge 50 c.); Algeria and Tunis 10 e. (minimum
1 fr.); Luxembourg 12V2 c.; Switzerland and Belgium 15 c; Great
Britain, Germany, Netherlands, Italy, Spain , and Portugal 20 c;
Austria -Hungary, 25 c; Denmark, Roumania, etc., 30 c; Sweden
35 c. ; Norway 40 c. ; Russia in Europe 50 c. ; Greece 55-60 c. ; Tur-
key 55 c.
Lyons and Marseilles have also Telephonic Communication,
with Paris.
X. Weights and Measures.
(In use since 1799.)
The English equivalents of the French weights and measures
are given approximately.
Millier = 1000 kilogrammes =19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz.
Kilogramme, unit of weight, ^=^ '2^/^ lbs. avoirdupois =:
2Vio lbs. troy.
Quintal = 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes = 220 lbs.
Hectogramme C/io kilogramme) =; 10 decagrammes =: 100 gr.
:= 1000 decigrammes. (100 grammes =:= S'/, oz. ; 15 gr.
= i/a oz. ; 10 gr. = V3 oz.; TVa gr- =^ V4 oz.)
Myriametre = 10.000 metres = G'/j Engl, miles.
Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs = about V^ Engl. mile.
Hectometre = 10 decametres := 100 metres.
Metre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe-
rical distance from the equator to the pole =^ 3.0784 Paris
feet = 3.281 Engl, feet = 1 yd. 3 '/a in.
Decimetre ('/lo metre) = 10 centimetres =^ 100 millimetres.
Hectare (square hectometre) =^ 100 ares =^ 10,000 sq. metres
= 2'/2 acres.
Are (square decametre) = 100 sq. metres.
Hectolitre = '10 cubic metre =^ 100 litres =1= 22 gallons.
Decalitre =:=: */,oo cubic metre ^ 10 litres =^ 2^/5 gals.
Litre, unit of capacity, = 1^4 pint; 8 litres = 7 quarts.
XI. MAPS. XXV
The following terms of the ol<l system of measurements are still
sometimes used : —
Livre^= '/^ kilogramme = I'/io lb.
Pied = '/a metre = 13 in.
Aune= i'/s metre = 1 yd. 11 in.
Toise =^ 1 Vio metre = 2 yds. 4 in.
Lieue = 2V2 miles.
Arpent= l',25 acre.
S^tier = 1 ' '2 hectolitre == 33 gals.
The thermometers commonly used in France are the Centi-
grade and H^aumur's. The freezing point on both of these is
marked 0". tlie boiling-point of the former 100°, of the latter 80°,
while Fahrenheit's boiling-point is 212° and his freezing-point
32°. It may easily be remembered that 5° Centigrade = 4° Reaumur
= 9° Fahrenheit . to which last 32° must be added for tempera-
tures above freezing. For temperatures below freezing the number
of degrees obtained hy converting those of Centigrade or Reaumur
into those of Fahrenheit must be subtracted from 32. Thus 5° C
= 4° R. = 9 -f- 32 = 41" F. : 20° C = 16° R. = 36 + 32 =^ 68° F.
Again . - 5° C = - 4° R. = 32 - 9 = 23° F.; - 20° C = -
16" R. = 32 - 36 = - 4° V.
XI. Maps.
The best maps of France have hitherto been the Cartes de I'Etat-
Major, or Ordnance Maps of the War Office. One series of these is
on a scale of 1 : 80,000, and includes 273 sheets, each 2'/2ft. long and
1"2 ft. wide, while another, reduced from the above, is on a scale of
1 : 320,000 and consists of 33 sheets (1 for 16 of the others) or 27
for France proper. These may be had either engraved on steel (2 fr.
per sheet) or lithographed (50 c). The engraved maps are con-
siderably clearer in the mountainous regions, but the lithographs
are good enough for ordinary use.
The War Office has also issued two series (on the same scales
as the above) of maps of the Frontier Alps, printed in three colours
and extending beyoml the borders of France, which the others do
not. P^ach sheet (50 c.) corresponds to a quarter of each sheet in
the former series.
All these maps may be obtained in the chief tourist-resorts, but
it is advisable to procure them in advance. The following shops in
Paris have always a full supply on hand: Lance, Rue de la Paix 8;
Andriveau-Gonjon. Rue du Bac 4: Dumaine (Baudoin), Rue et Pas-
sage Dauphine 30, etc. The two last firms publish catalogues of
maps on a smaller scale.
An excellent special map of Mont Blanc (1 : 40,000), by xMieu-
let, was published in 1865 in three colours. Compiled from the
War Office map, it includes parts of four separate sheets of the
XXVI XI. MAPS.
latter, besides shewing the Italian and Swiss slopes of the chain,
hut it does not extend beyond the Glacier de Saleinaz and the Gla-
cier de Trelatete at either end. Adams Reilly's map of the chain o
Mont Blanc, published in the same year, is on a smaller seal
(1 : 80,000). A map of the entire chain was published by VioUet-h
Due in 1868-75, with geological notes (4 sheets; 10 fr.).
The Spanish slope of the Pyrenees is not included in the ]
Government maps, while the Spanish War Office map has n^
extended to this point, so that the only maps that can be recom'
ed for this district are those published by MM. Fr. Schrai . ■
E. Wallon, members of the French Alpine Club. M. Sch
map (1 : 100,000), still unfinished, embraces only the Spanish ,
of the Central Pyrenees. Four of the total six sheets have been issue
(1883-1888), viz. those comprising the Posets (Sheet 2), Cotiell,
(Sh. 5), the Valley of Aran (8h. 3), and Mont-Perdu (Sh. 1). These
are sold separately at 3 fr. each in Paris, at the headquarters of the
Alpine Club, 30 Rue du Bac, and by Hachette, Boulevard St. Ger-
main 79. — M. Wallon's Majy of the Central Pyrenees (1 : 150,000)
embraces both slopes, from the Navarre to the Valine d'Aure and
from Lourdes (France) to Jaca (Spain). It comprises a single sheet,
published in 1884 by G. Cazaux, bookseller at Pan and Cauterets,
at 4 fr., or mounted on cloth with case 7 fr.
There is also another map of France in five colours, on a scale
of 1 : 100,000, prepared by the direction of the Minister of the In-
terior. It consists of upwards of 500 sheets, each 15 in. long and
11 in. wide, sold at 75 c. each. Most of the districts treated of in
this Handbook, with the exception of the mountains, have been
published in this form, but some sheets still lack the contour lines.
None of the sheets with the Pyrenees have yet appeared. The accu-
racy of this map is not above suspicion, at least in regard to local
cads ; e. g. a road is marked over the Col de Chaviere (p. 3 12), where
here is not even a footpath. This map may be obtained from
Hachette, Boulevard St. Germain 79.
SOUTHERN FRANCE.
WUTH-WESTERN FRANCE TO THE PTRENEES.
iTom Tours (Paris) to Bordeaux 2
I. From Tours to Poitiers 2
'"' From Port-de-Piles to Le Blanc, 3. — From Poitiers
to Parthenay; to St. SiUpice-Laiiriere (Limoges),
6. — From Poitiers to Le Blanc. 7.
II. From Poitiers to Angouleme 7
From Angoxileme to Saintes ; to Limoges. Nontron.
Rochechouart-Clialus, 10.
III. From Angouleme to Bordeaux 11
From Coutras to Cavignac, 11. — From Libourne
to Jlarcenais; to Le Buisson, 11.
2. From Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne 12
From Azay-le-Rideau to Crouzilles-St. Gilles (Port-
de-Piles), 13. — From Chinon to Port-Boulet ; to
Port-de-Piles, and to Richelieu, 14. — From Lou-
dun (Angers) to Chatellerault; to Poitiers, 14. —
Oiron, 15. — From Thouars to Niort, l.o. — From
Bressnire (Angers) to Xiort, 16.
3. From Poitiers to La Rochelle (and Rochefort) ... 18
Sanzay, IS. — From Xiort to Saintes : to EulVec, 19, 20.
— From Aigrefeuille to Rochefort, 20. — From La
Rochelle to the lie de Re. 22; to the He d'01eron,23.
4. From Nantes to Bordeaux . 23
a. Via Clisson and La Rochelle 23
From Clisson to Cholet, 23. — The JIarais. From
Velluire toNiort,24. — From .St. Laurent-de-la-Pre
to Fouras. 25. — From Rochefort to the He d'Ole'-
ron, 26. — From Pons to Royan, 28.
b. Via Challans and La Rochelle 29
From Challans to Xoirmoutiers, 29. — From Comme-
quiers to St. Gilles-Croix-de-Vie. From St. Gilles
to the He d'Yeu, 30.
5. From Orlt^ans (Paris) to Bordeaux via P^rigueux . . 30
I. From Orleans to Limoges 30
From Vierzon to Tours 31. — De'ols. From Chateau-
roux to Tours, 32. — From Chateauroiix to Jlont-
lucon. 33. — Environs of Argenton and Eguzon, 34.
— Environs of Limoges. From Limoges to Ussel
(Clermont-Ferrand), 38.
II. From Limoges to Bordeaux via P^rigueux . . 38
From Thiviers to Brive, 38. —From Chateau-TEveque
to Brantome. 39. — From Pe'rienenx to Ribe'rac, 41.
6. Bordeaux 41
From Bordeaux to La Sauve. 52.
Baedeker. Southern France. 1
7. From Bordeaux to Royan 52
a. By the M^doc Railway 52
b. By the Gironde 54
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon 55
From Factvire (Arcachon) to Lesparre (Royan) ; to
St. SvmiJhorieii, 56. — From La Teste to Cazaux, 57.
— Cape Ferret, 58.
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz .... 58
From Morcenx to Tarbes, 58. — From Dax to Pan,
60. — F"rom Bayonne to Cambo (St-Jean-Pied-de
Port), 63.
10. From Bordeaux to Cette (Montpellier) 63
a. From Bordeaux to Toulouse 63
From Beautiran to Hostens, 63. — From Langon to
Bazas, 64. — From Porte-Ste. Marie to Eauze
(Riscle), 65. — From Montauban to Cahor«;to
Castres, 70. — From Toulouse to Auch, 78.
b. From Toulouse to Cette 79
From Castelnaudary to Albi, 79. — From Moux to
Caunes. E.xeiirsions among the Corbieres, 82. —
From Narbonne to Bize, 84. — From Beziers to
Montpellier via Paulhan (Lodeve), 85. — From
Beziers to Slontpellier viaMeze ; toSt. Chinian,86.
11. From P^rigueux to Tarbes (Pyrenees) 87
I. From P^rigueux to Agen 87
Grotto of Miremont. From Siorae to CazoiU. ^,87. —
From Monsempron-Libos to Cahors, 88. From
Penne to Villeneuve-sur-I,nt, 89.
II. From Agen to Tarbes 89
12. From Limoges (Paris) to Toulouse 91
From Brive to Cahors (Montauban) ; to Pe'rigueux, 91.
— Rocamodour, 92. — From Capdenac to Cahors,
93. — From Le.xosto Montauban^ From Vindracto
Cordes, 94. — From Tessonnieres to Albi, 95.
13. From Capdenac to Rodez and to Bfeiers or Montpellier 97
From Viviez to De'cazeville, 97.
I. From Tours (Paris) to Bordeaux.
213M. Railway in 51/2-IW4 lirs. (fares 42 fr. 45, 31 fr. 85, 23 fr. 40 c.).
Bordeaux has two principal stations, La Bastide on the right bank of the
Garonne, the nearest to the centre of the town, and St. Jeati, in a suburb
on the left bank, for travellers proceeding fartlier to the S. on the main
line (comp. p. 41). Travellers with through-tickets are allowed 48 hours
in the town on condition of presenting their tickets for examination on
arrival, but they cannot remove luggage that has been registered to tlieir
ultimate destination.
1. From Tours to Poitiers.
61 M. Railway in 21/4-31/2 hr.s. (fares 12 fr, 10, 9 fr. 5, 6 fr. 65 c).
Tours, soe Baedeker's Norfhern France. — Trains in connection
with the express proceed to the (2 M.) station of -S^. Pierre-des-Corps
on the line from Paris. Slow trains make use of a loop-line.
Wagttw Uletfls Xeipri
POITIERS. I. Route I. 3
South of the town the lines to Nantes and Les Sables-d'Olonno
(R. 2) diverge on the right. Then . after crossing the Cher, we pass
over a viaduct from which there is a fine view and cross the line
to Chateauroux (p. 33). To the left Is the fine Chateau de Cande'
(16th cent.). The valley of the Indre is next crossed by a viaduct,
'/j M. long and 69 ft. high , which affords another fine view. —
7 M. Monts. Beyond (12'/2 M.) Vilteperdiie is another viaduct,
102ft. high, over the Manse; on the right, the Chateau de Brou.
— 20 M. Ste. Maure, a little town 2 M. to the left. — 27 M. Port-
de~Piles. Brxinch-line to Chinon, see p. 14.
From PoKT-DE-PiLES to Le Blakc, 41i/.>M., railway in 21/3 l"'s. (fares
8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 20, 4 IV. 55 c.). The line first ascends" the valley of the
Creiise, then that of the Claise. — 6 M. La Ilaye- Descartes, the birthplace
of Descartes (1596-1650), the celebrated philosopher, to whom a statue has
been erected here. — 13 M. Le Grand-Piessigny , with a keep of the 12th
and a castle of the 17th century. About II/2 M. to the W. , at La Dous-
fetiere, numerous Hint celts have been found. — 22 M. Preiiilly has a very
fine Romanesque abbey -church. — Our route then quits the banks of
the Claise and returns to the valley of the Creuse. — Beyond (36 51.)
Fontgombault , which also has a very remarkable old abbey- church , we
rejoin the Poitiers line. — 411/2 M. Le Blanc (p. 7).
We cross the Creuse and ascend the valley of the Vienne. —
29 M. Les Ormes: 31'/2 AI. iJangt; 36'/2M. Ingr an des-sur -Vienne.
40';oM. Chatellerault ( /7o^ del' Univers; Hot. de I'Espe'rance),
a town on the Vienne with 17.402 inhab., famous for its Arms
Factory, which can only be visited with an order. The cutlery of
Chatellerault is also celebrated. The chief building in the town is
the church of 8f. Jacques, of the 13th cent., with a rich modern
west front. — Line to Loudun, see p. 14.
We next cross the Vienne and ascend the valley of the Clain.
— 46 M. Les Barres. In the neighbourhood is the site of Vieu.x-
Poitiers. and farther on. also on the right bank, is Monssais-la-
Bataille, the probable scene of the famous battle of Poitiers (see
below). — Beyond (49 M.) La Tricherie, on the left, is the castle
of Baudiment , a curious edifice of the 15th cent, (restored). —
5IV2M. Dissais-sur- Vienne. with a fine castle of the 16th and
18th centuries. — 54 M. C/aH ; 56 M. Chasseneuil. On the right
is the line to Loudun (see p. 14). — 61 M. Poitiers (Buffet).
Poitiers. — Hotels. Hot. du Palais (PI. a;B, 3), a large house near
the Palais de Justice, R. 21/0, D. 4 fr. : Hot. de Fr.A>-CE (Pl.b;B, 4), E. 2,
D. 3fr. ; Hot. de i-'Europe (Pl.c: B , 4) ; Hot. des Trois-Piliers (Pl.d;
B, 4); the last three in the Kue des Halles , near the Place d'Arines. —
Caf^s, in the Rue des Halles and in the Place d'Armes,
Poitiers, with a pop. of 36,878, the ancient capital oi Poitou
and now the chief town of the department of theT'ienne, is the seat
of a bishopric and possesses also a university, with a school of law,
founded in 1431. It is situated on a hill at the confluence of the
Clain and the Boivre, and most of the streets are narrow, tortuous,
steep, and badly built. The limited trade of the town and the fact
that it is largelv occupied by religious foundations combine to
1*
4 /. Route 1. POITIERS. Froin Tours
make it rather a dull place, but it has some objects of interest
■which every tourist should endeavour to see.
Poitiers first appears as a Celtic town, the capital of the Pietones or
Pictavi, whence its modern name. To the Romans it was Icnown as Li-
monum. About 353 St. Hilary (not to be confounded with his namesake
of Aries) became its first bishop. Poitou was included in the Visigothic
kingdom of Aquitaine, founded in 419, but after the defeat of Alaric II.
by Clovis at Vouille, in 507, it was added to the Prankish dominions
and constituted a countship whose holders afterwards made themselves
dukes of Aquitaine. One of these dukes is said to have invited the
Saracens into this part of the country, hut be this as it may, it was
within 20 miles N.W. of Poitiers that Charles JIartel in 732 finally broke
the power of the Moorish invaders. By the marriage of Eleanor, sole
heiress of Poitou and Aquitaine , to Louis VII. of France these import-
ant provinces became part of the royal dominions. Ou her divorce
and re-marriage to Henry Plantagenet in 1152 they passed, unhappily for
France, into the power of England. The most important event in the
two centuries of strife which succeeded is the Battle of Poitiers (or
Maupertuis) in 1356 , when .Tohn the Good was defeated by Edward the
Black Prince and lost more than 11,000 men. By the treaty of Bretigny
(1360) Aquitaine, and with it Poitou and other counties, passed in full
sovereignty to Edward III., but the country between the Loire and the
Garonne was finally won back in 1372 by the Constable Bertrand du Gues-
clin. The Protestants under Coligny unsuccessfully besieged Poitiers for
seven weeks in 1569. Since then its history has been uneventful.
Quitting the Station (PI. A, 4) , which is situated in the lowei'
part of the town, carriages reach the centre by a long circuit to the
left vi5, the Boulevard Solferino. Pedestrians go direct by the Rue
de la Visitation , the first street ascending to the right from the
boulevard. Turning again to the right at the first cross street, they
reach the square in front of the Prtjecture (PI. A,B, 4), a large
featureless building. Hence the Rue Victor-Hugo leads to the Place
d'Armes (P1.B,3,4), a large square forming the centre of the town.
On the opposite (E.) side is the Hotel de Villa (PI. B, C, 3) , a
tine building, erected between 1868 and 1875, in the style of the
French Renaissance. It contains the principal collections belonging
to the town, including a library and two museums. Of the latter,
the Muse'e des Beaux-Arts is open to the public on Sun. from
noon to 4 p. m. It contains 150 works by well-known painters, of
which 10 are by Curzon of Poitiers. There is also a portrait by
Tintoretto. The Mitse'e d'Histoire Naturelle is open on Tliurs..
from noon to 4 p. m. except when it rains. Strangers may obtain
admission on other days, at the same hours, to both museums.
The SociETE DES Antiquaiees de l'Ouest has also in the neigh-
bouring Rue des Grandes-Ecoles (P1.B,3) an important museum of
Roman and other antiquities.
On the right, behind the Hotel de Ville, is a pretty house in the
Renaissance style. Thence we follow the street on the left to the
Rue d'Orl^ans, the second on the right, by which we descend.
The Temple St. Jean (P1.D,3), at the end of the next street, Is
a curious structure, now identified as a baptistery of the 6th cen-
tury. In plan it is an oblong of about 42 ft. by 26 ft. ; the floor is for
to Bordeaux. POITIERS. I. Route 1. 5
the most part below the present level of the street. On the longer
sides are additions made in the 12th cent. , and at either end are
apses. The exterior is decorated with pilasters, arcades, pediments,
and rosettes ; and in the interior are marble pillars of different sizes,
dating apparently from some more ancient building. There are
also some frescoes of the 11th century.
The Cathedral {St. Peter's; PI. C,D,2) was begun in 1162 by
Henry II. of England, husband of Eleanor of Aquitaine or Guienne
(p. 4), but the west facade only was completed and the church conse-
crated in 1379. Some parts are llomanesque, but the PlantagenetGothic
style predominates. The facade is comparatively poor; it is too
wide and too low and the unfinished towers which flank it increase
its heaviness. The interior is imposing on account of the boldness
of its proportions and the width of its aisles and bays. To make
it appear longer than it actually is the architect has increased the
effect of the perspective by lessening the width of the nave and
aisles and by a corresponding lowering of the arches towards the
choir, which ends in a straight wall pierced by three windows,
instead of in an apse. .Some of the stained glass dates from the
ll-12th cent., while the fine choir-stalls are assigned to the latter
half of the 14th. Behind the choir, on the left, is the modern
tomb of Monsgr. P.ouille.
From the rear of the cathedral we descend to the right to Ste.
liadeqonde (PI. D,2), a church founded about 560 by the queen of
that name, wife of Clotaire I., who retired hither to her convent of
Ste. Croix. It was, however, rebuilt in the ll-13th cent, in the same
style as the cathedral, except the main entrance, which belongs to
the 15th or 16t]i century. A tine Gothic steeple rises from the
facade. Specially noteworthy within the church are a Crypt con-
taining the sarcophagus of St. Kadegonde (an object of pilgrimage),
and a marble statue of the saint, attributed to Girardon. On the left
of the nave is a kind of niche called the chapel of the Pas-de-Dieu,
with two poor statues, between which, on the pavement, is a foot-
print made, according to the legend, by our Lord when he appeared
to St. Kadegonde.
This church is near the Clain, which is spanned by the Pont
Neuf, to the right, and by the Pont Joubert, to the loft. We re-
asceud into the town by the street which begins at the latter bridge
and is continued by one which leads us straight to —
'^Notre-Dame (P1.B,2), a very interesting monument of Roman-
esque architecture dating from the end of the 11th cent., with ad-
ditions of the 15th and 16th. This church is noted for its *We^t
Facade, which, like that of Angouleme cathedral (p. 9), has all the
elaboration of detail which we associate with the repouss^ work of
the goldsmith. It is composed of three tiers of arches, in the
lowest of which are inserted a round-headed door and two obtusely
pointed blind ones subdivided into two semicircular arcades. The
6 /. Route 1. POITIERS. From Tours
uppermost tiers, broken by a large window, contain mutilated sta-
tues of St. Hilary, St. Martin, and the Apostles, and in the gable-end
is one of Christ in the act of blessing, surrounded by the emblems
of the Evangelists. There are besides some bas-reliefs with subjects
drawn chiefly from the life of the Virgin. This facade is flanked by
turrets with conical tops and fish-scale ornamentation. The steeple
of the church, with a similar top, is at the entrance to the choir. —
The Interior, disfigured by modern paintings of coarse tone, is
divided into nave and aisles, the former having a barrel vault, the
latter being groined. The side- chapels were added in the 15th and
16th centuries. There is no transept, but the aisles are prolonged
round the choir^ The latter contains a 13th cent, fresco on its vault
and a fine modern high-altar in the Romanesque style. In a chapel
on the right is a "Holy Sepulchre' of the 16th century.
The Palais de Justice (PI. B, 3) a little beyond Notre-Dame, on
the left, includes , behind some late additions, remains of the old
castle of the counts of Poitou (14th cent.). The finest part is the
*SaUe des Pas-Perdus, the old guard -chamber, measuring 160 by
56 ft. and recalling that of the Palais de Justice at Rouen,
The old Provost's Covrt {Prevute'; PI. A, B,2), a building of
the 15 -16th cent. , now a school, has a very remarkable fagade,
with four turrets and some fine pediments over its windows.
At the N. end of the town stands the church of Montibrneuf
{Moutier-Neuf; PI. A, 1), an ancient church of the Benedictines,
of the 11th cent. , and of exceptional width for that period. It has
a little cupola above the crossing, surmounted by two bell turrets
which are connected by three arches.
Between the Palais de Justice and the Place d'Armes is St. Por-
ckaire (PI. B,3), a church of the 16th cent. , with a Romanesque
tower, dating from an older building. — To the S. is St. Hilary
(PI. B, 5), a monastic church founded, it is said, before the 6th cent.,
rebuilt in the 11th and 12th, and partly in the present century. It
consists of a nave and six aisles and has 6 cupolas, but no steeple.
The Parc de Blossac (PI. B, 0,5,6), at the S. end of the town,
a promenade laid out in the 18th cent., commands a fine view of the
Clain valley, on which side it is bordered by the remains of the old
14th century liamparts, which extend some way westward between
the town and the railway. At the entrance from the Rue des Capu-
cins are two marble groups by Etex , representing the Joys and
Sorrows of Motherhood.
There is a dolmen, called the Plerre-Lere'e , in the suburb of
St. Saturnin, to the NJi., beyond the Pont-Neuf (PI. D, 2, 3).
From Poitiers to Louditn (Angers) see p. 14; to La Rochelle aud
Roche/ort, R. 3.
Branch Line from Poitiers to (SSi/oM.) Parthenay , identical with
the Loudun line as far as Neuville-de- Poitou (p. 15).
From Poitiers to St. Sulpice-Lavrikre fLinioges) , 78 M., railway in
31/2-41/2 lirs. (fares 15 fr. 60, 11 fr. 75. 8 fr. 50 c.). — The Angouleme line
to Bordeaux. ST. SAVIN. I. Route 1. 7
is followed as far as (Sl/oM.) Si. BenoH (see belowl, lieyoiul which a short
tunnel is passed. — 7l/o JI. ilignaloux -NouailU (branch-line to St. Savin
andLe Blanc, see below)". lOi/n M. Nieuil-l- Espoir ; 131 '2 M. Fleuri. Beyond
(181/2 M.) Vllommaize, the line crosses the Vienna. — 251/2 M. Lussac-
les-Chdieaux , which has only one old castle, through the ruins of which
the railway passes.
33V-> M. Montmorillon (H<!t. de France), a small town (pop. 5158) on
an eminence, 1/2 31. to the left, at the foot of which Hows the Gartempe.
In its lower par't are the Gothic churches of St. Martial and Notre-Dame;
in the upper part, the ^elit Siminaire, an ancient convent of the
Augustines , the church of which contains the monument of the gallant
Chevalier La Hire, and also comprises a curious building of the 11-
12th cent., called the Octagon, consisting of two chapels, one above the
other. In the upper one are some singular sculptures in high relief. A
branch -line runs hence to (25 M.) Le Blanc (see below), via (11 M.) La
Trimouille or La Tremoiiille.
511/2 M. Le Dorat (Hot. Bordeaux), a small town with an interesting
Romanesque church and remains of fortifications of the 15th century.
A branch-line runs hence to (351/2 51) Limoges (p. 35), via (8 M.) Bellac,
an industrial town with 4803 inhabitants. 56 JI. Drou.r.
64 M. Chdteau-Ponsac, a small town on the Gartempe. 69 31. Bessines.
74 '/2M. Bersac, also a station on the main line from Paris to Limoges.
78 31. St. Sulpice-Lauri'ere (p. 35).
FnoM Poitiers to Le Blakc, 45 31., railway in 3 hrs. (fares 9 fr.,
6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 90 c). — Diverging from the laat-descrlbed route at (71/2 31.)
M\gnalou.i--Nouailli, we proceed N.E. over a dull plain. — 20 M. Chauvigny
(Lion d'Or), a small town of 2223 inhab., prettily situated on the Vienne,
with two line ch\irches of the 12th cent., and tlie ruins of four castles.
313/431. St. Savin (H6t. Thevenei) , a small town of 1735 inhab., on the
Gartempe, with an interesting *AM>eij-Church of the 11th cent., a cruciform
building with three aisles , a transept, and ambulatory. Over the porch
i.s a tine steeple with a Gothic spire, and over the transept a square
tower. The height of the interior is e.\cepti(jnal for a Romanesque church.
The columns are 59ft. and the main vaulting 69ft. high, although the
total width of the building is only 601/2 ft. and its length 160 ft. But
the most interesting features of this church are the * Wall-Paintings of
the 12th cent., with which it is decorated throughout, and which are
said to comprise no less than 250 ligures. One series consists of subjects
from Genesis, E.xodus , and the Apocalypse; the others represent the
patron saints of the abbey and of the neighbouring district. Those in
the choir and chapels are inferior to those in the nave, which recall the
works of the Byzantine school.
45 M. Le Blanc (Hot. de France), the Oblincitm of the Romans, with
7140 inhab., stands on the Creuse. The chief object of interest is the church
of St.Oinitour of the 12th, 13th, and 15th centuries. — Line to Pori-de-
Piles, see p. 3. In the opposite direction it is continued to (31 31.) Ar-
genion (p. 34). Another line is under construction to (31 31.) Buzanqais
(p. 35).
II. From Poitiers to Angoul§me.
70 31. Railway in I2/3-3V3 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 10 fr. 55, 7 fr. 65 c.).
The line passes through a shoit tunnel into the picturesque
valley of the Clam, and crosses that river several times. — 64 M.
(from Tours) St. Benoit, the junction for St. Sulpice-Lauriere and
Limoges (see above), and also for La Ilochelle and llochefort (R.3).
— 66 M. Liguye, with an old Benedictine abbey founded by St.
Martin. Farther on, oa the right, is the castle of Bernay, of the
15th century. — lO'/a M. Iteuil; 73 M. Vivonne; 79 M. Anche-
8 7. Boute 1. ANGOULEME. Fro^n Tours
Voulon; 82 M. Cuuhe'-Ve'rac, situated o^i'-^M. to the W. (omnibus);
STVa M. Epanvilliers. A branch-line runs from (93 M.) St. Saviol
to (10 M.) Charro2ix, via (d'/j M.) Civray , a small town on the
Charente, with a Romanesque church with an interesting west front.
102 M. Ruffec (Buffet), another little town, has also a Roman-
esque church with a remarkable facade. The town is celebrated for
truffled pies. Line to Niort (p. 20).
A short tunnel is passed through. 108 M. Mottssac , beyond
which the Charente is crossed. 11 M. Luxe'; 119 M. St. Amnnd-
de-Boixe; the town, 1^/^ M. to the S.-W. (omn.), has a curious
church, a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic. 123 M. Vars.
As we approach Angouleme, a fine view of the town and its prin-
cipal buildings is presented, the most prominent being (from left to
right) the steeple of St. Martial , the tower of the Hotel de Ville,
and the cathedral with its square tower.
131 M. Angoul§me {Buffet; Hot. du Palais, Place du Murier,
in the centre of the town; Hot. de France, R. 2fr. ; Cafe's in the
Place du Murier), with 34,647 inhab. , the ancient capital of the
Angoumois , is now the chief town of the dei)artmeut of the C/ia-
rente, and an episcopal see. Like Poitiers, it occupies an emi-
nence between two rivers, the Charente and the Anguienne. but it
is a little better built and is encircled by promenades which afford
very fine views. The cathedral and other public buildings deserve
a visit, and may be seen in a few hours. The town is noted for its
paper-mills.
The town existed in the time of the Romans, who named it Encolisma.
It was included in the kingdom of Aquitaine, but at a later period became
the capital of a county which was handed over to the English by the
treaty of Bre'tigny in 1360. It revolted in 1373 and as a reward for its
fidelity to the crown, it was constituted a duchy, and made the appanage
of one of the royal princes. The town was several times taken and
sacked in the Religious Wars, notably by Coliguy.
From the Gare d'Orle'ans, or station of the Bordeaux line, in
front of which is the Gare de I'Etat for the line to Limoges and
Saintes, we ascend to the right by the Avenue Gambetta. On the
left is the seminary and church of St. Martial, a flue modern build-
ing in the Romanesque style, with a steeple over the facade. It
was built by Paul Abadie (d. 1884) , architect of the church of the
'Sacr^-Coeur' at Paris, who made a special study of the Romanesque
style, and restored or built a large number of churches in the country.
The street issuing in front of this church and the one continu-
ing it lead us to the *II6tel uk Ville, a very remarkable structure,
in great part modern (1858-66) , which is also the work of Abadie.
It is in the style of the 13th cent, and occupies the site of the castle,
of the Counts of Angouleme, of which there remain two towers on
the left, one of the 14th, the other of the 15th century. — In a small
garden on the same side is the marble Statue of Margaret of
Valois, or Angouleme, sister of Francis I. and queen of Navarre (d.
1549), by Bndiou de la Tronchere (1871).
to Bordeaux. ANGOULEME. /. Boute 1. 9
A new street leads from the front of the Hotel do Yille to the
Covered Market, which in 1888 replaced the Ghatelet, the forinev
prison.
In the square to the right of the Hotel de Ville is a bronze statue,
hy R. Verlet, of /))•. Jean BouUlavd (1796-1867). The Palais de
Justice is situated in the Place du Miirier, a little before the preced-
ing, to the right. Behind the statue is the Theatre (1866-72), in a
square abutting on the Bamparts. wliich command a comprehensive
view of the valley of the Anguieune.
The *Cathedeal of St. Peter, a short distance to the right, is
one of the most interesting Romanesque-Byzantine churches in
France, recalling Notre -Dame at Poitiers (p. 5) and St. Front at
P^rigueux (p. 39). It belongs, as a whole, to the 12th cent., but was
thoroughly restored and even partly rebuilt between 1866 and 1875
by Abadie. It comprises a nave without aisles, surmounted by three
cupolas; a transept with a cupola forming a lantern in the centre;
a north transept tower (see below) ; the remains of a south transept
tower; and an apse with four chapels. — The *Fapade, which recalls
on a large scale that of Notre-Dame at Poitiers', Is also the most
curious part of this church. Exclusive of the gable, it is composed
of four tiers of arcades , divided from top to bottom by columns
into five bays. The lowest tier has five arches, of which the largest
and central one contains the sole door in the facade. Above this
door is a large window and above that, between symbols of the Evan-
gelists, is a Christ in Judgment, to which event most of the many
sculptures of the facade refer. Below the Christ, to the right and
left, are angels sounding the last trump, the dead rising from their
graves (the blessed distinguished by the nimbus and the reprobate
accompanied by demons), the Doctors of the Church, the Apostles,
symbolic representations of Faith (St. George), Hope, and Charity
(St. Martin), etc.. and numerous beautiful ornamentations.
The splendid *Tower at the end of the N. transept, 193 ft. in
height, is the next striking feature of this church. It was neces-
sarily pulled down at the time of tlie restoration, but rebuilt exactly
in its former shape and, as far as possible, with the same materials.
It has six square stages, diminishing in size, and four of them pre-
sent open bays. The corresponding S. tower, of which only the base
remains, was destroyed by the Calvinists in 1568; it had a Gothic
spire. — In the Interior the cupolas of the nave (which has slightly
pointed arclies) and the lantern of the transept, pierced by twelve
windows, merit special notice.
The pile of buildings to the left of the cathedral is the Bishup's
Palace, of the same age as the church and also restored by Abadie.
Continuing to follow tlie ramparts beyond the cathedral, we ar-
rive at the Jardin Vert., a fine promenade on the side of the hill.
To appreciate the view , the best plan is to make for the top by the
Promenade de Beaulieu, which skirts the spacious buildings of the
10 I. Route 1. COGNAC. From Tours
Lycee and commands the valley of the Charente. The return may
thus be made, by the edge of the hill, as far as the street that as-
cends from the station. Near the end of the ramparts on the right
are the Prisons, in a part of the old Chatelet, dating from the 13th
and 15th centuries. The lateral streets on this side lead to the
Hotel de Ville and the Palais de Justice, which is in the neigh-
bouring Place du Murier (p. 9).
From Akgoulemb to Saintes (Rochefort, La Rochelle), 481/2 M., rail-
way in 2-23/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 95, 4 fr. 35 c). — From the Gare de
I'Etat fp. 8) we pass through a tunnel under the town and cross the Bor-
deaux line. — 3 M. St. Michel-sur-Charente, with a curious octagonal church
of the 12th centurv. The line then follows the valley of the Charente.
7M. Nersac; 91/431. Sireuil.
141/4 M. Chateauneuf-sur-Charente, a thriving little town, once a strong-
hold in the hands of the English, and only recovered from them after a
siege of four years (1376-80). A branch -line runs hence to (12 M.) Bar-
betieux (Hot. de France), a town of 4090 inhab. , on the slope of a hill,
with the remains of a castle of the loth cent., a church of the same
period, and another of the 12th century.
18 M. St. Atnant-de-Graves; 2OV2 M." St. Heme; 23 M. Jarnac, a small
town chiefly known for the victory of the Catholics under the Duke of
Anjou, afterwards Henri III., over the Protestant army of the Prince of
Conde in 1569. The country to the left of our route and to the S. of the
Charente, as far as beyond Cognac, is the Petite Champagne. Farther south
is the Grande Champagne. They are so called because they are of the
same geological formation as Champagne and, like it, produce excellent
white wines of which highly-reputed brandies are made, those of the sec-
ond being called ''Fine Champagne'. — 271/2 M. Gensac-la-Pallue.
313/4 31. Cognac (Hot. de Londres)^ an old town of 15,200 inhab., the centre
of the brandy trade of the Charente, the products of which are sent to
all parts of the world. Its chief object of interest is the church of
St. L^ger, mainly of the 11th, 14th, and 15th centuries. The fagade has
line florid Komanesque details. Cognac contains an Equestrian Statue of
Francis 7., a modern bronze by Etex. The large brandy distilleries and^.
the vast store-houses should be seen. One of the latter is on the site of
the castle in which Francis I. was born (1494).
36 M. Le Perat; 881/2 JI. Drives -CMrac; 42 M. Beillant. — 481/" M.
Saintes (p. 26).
From Angouleme to Limoges, 73 M. , railway in 31/2-33/4 hrs. (fares
14 fr., 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 70 c.). We start from the Gare d'Orleans (p. 8). —
33/4 M. Ruelle, with a large cannon-foundry established in 1750. — 6I/4 M.
Magnac-Toiivre. The copious springs of Touvre are at the foot of a hill
which is crowned by a ruined castle. — From (10 M.) Le Quh-oy-Pranzac a
branch-line runs to (221/2 M.) the little town of A'ontron, via (8 JI.) Marthon,
where are the remarkable ruins of a castle of the 12th century. This
branch is to be extended as far as (18 31.) Thiviers (p. 38).
171/2 31. La Rochefoucauld (IlOt. du Commerce).^ a little town with the
remarkable *ChAteau of the family of that name ^ founded in the 9th or
10th cent., but datiug chiefly from the 12th and i6th. The finest parts,
dating from the Renaissance, are the magnificent staircase built by Fontant
( 1528-38) and the galleries , surmounted by arches , which surround the
inner court, by the same artist. — 25 31. Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure, which
has a castle of the 17th cent, ami iron mines. — From (33 31.) Roumazilre-
Lnubert (Buffet) a branch-line diverges to (IO1/2 31.) Cnnfolens (Hot. Rouffy),
a town with 3083 inhab., a castle, and two ancient churche.s. We now
reach the valley of the Vienne. 4OI/2 31. Chabanais. 451/2 ST. Saillat-Chasse-
non. Chassenon, 21/2 II. to the S.W., is the Cassinomagus of the Romans.
A branch-line runs hence to (2831.) Biis.Uire-Galant (Pe'rigueux, see p. 38), vii
(41/2 M.) Bocbechouart (Hot. Faure), a little town with a remarkable castle
to Bordeaux. LIBOURNE. I. Route 1. 11
situated on a lofty rock and rebuilt in the iStli cent., and (231/-2 M.) Chdlus,
with two keeps of the strong castle in attacking which Richard Coeur-
de-Lion was mortally wounded in 1199, at the rock JIaumont.
501/2 M. St. Junien (Commerce), an industrial town of 8479 inhab., con-
taining a remarkable abbey-church of the 12th cent, with the richly sculp-
tured tomb of St. Junien, of the same period, and a beautiful high altar.
Here there is also a bridge of the 13th cent., with a chapel of the Virgin
to which Louis XI. made a pilgrimage. — Beyond (66V2 M.) Aixe-sur- Vienne^
an industrial place with 375t) inhab., we pass through a tunnel, 1/4 M.
long. — 73 M. Limoges (Gare de JXontjovis, p. 35).
jIII. From Angoulgme to Bordeaux."^
SaV-T M. to the Gare de la Bastide, 87 M. to that of St.-Jean (see p. 41).
R.viLWAY in 2-4V" and 2V-t53/4 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 45, 12 fr. 35 c, 9 fr., or
17 fr. 35, 13 fr., 9'fr. 45 c.)T Best views to the right.
•jThe line passes under the town through a tunnel '/g M. long. —
136 M. (from Tours) La Couronne, with a large paper-mill and
the remarkable ruins of a Gothic abbey -church of the 12th cen-
tury. — 139'/.2 M. Mouthiers; 1 44^/4 M. Charmant. We now pass
from the Charente to the Dordogne basin by a tunnel nearly 1 M.
long, and enter the valley of the Tude. The country assumes more
and more a southern appearance. — 152M. Montmoreau. — 162*/2M.
Chalais, a small decayed town, with the ruins of a castle of the 14th,
16th, and 18th cent. Hence we pass to the valley of the Dronne.
171 V2M. Ln Boclte-Chalais-St. Aigulin ; 176 M. Les Eglisottes.
182 M. Coutras {Buffet, good wine), a small commercial town,
with scanty remains of its ancient castle. In 1587 Henri IV. here
defeated the Leaguers under the Due de Joyeuse. Line to Peri-
gueux, see p. 41.
From Coi:tras to Cavigkac, 16 31., railway joining the Hue from Bor-
deaux to Nantes (R.4). The Me is crossed. 41/4 M. Guitres, a small town
on a hill to the right, with a fine Romanesque church. 13 31. Afarcenais.
junction of a line to Libourne. 16 31. Cavi'jnac (p. 29).
We next cress the Isle and continue to follow the valley of the
Dronne. — 197 M. St. Denis-de-Pile.^.
192M. Libourne [Buffet; Hot. de France, Rue Chanzy. D. 3fr. ;
des Princes, Rue de Guitres), a commercial and industrial town with
16,736 inhab., at the confluence of the Dordogne and the Isle. It is
of ancient origin (Condate), but has been to a great extent rebuilt
on a regular plan since the wars with the I^nglish (to whom it re-
mained loyal up to 1451) and the Religious Wars. The fine steeple
of the Gothic church (15th cent.), recently rebuilt and 233 ft. high,
is seen from a distance, to the right.
Abciut li/j 31. to the W. is Fronsac. on a hill (236 ft.) which alTords
a fine view. The town was fortified since the time of Charlemagne, but
the castle is now destroyed.
From Libodrne to 3I.vrce>iais (see above) a branch-line of 12 31.,
joining the line from Bordeaux to Nantes.
From Libovrse to Le Blissojj, 61 31., railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares
13 fr. 45, 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 75 c). This line ascends the Dordogne valley.
5 31. St. EmiUon (IlOt. Dussaud) , a curious little town famous for its
wines. It occupies a picturesque site on a hill, and still retains a great
part of its medisevel ramparts, with large ditches dug out of the rock.
12 /. Route 1. BERGERAC.
lu the hill itself are immense quarries still worked for building stone.
Here, too , is a Monolithic Church , scooped out in the rotk iu the Middle
Ages, and measuring 104 ft. in length, 46 ft. in breadth, and 521/2 ft. in
height. It is at the side of the hermitage of St. Emilion , or rather St.
Emilien, who lived here in the 8th cent., and on a terrace above stands a
fine tower of tlie 12th and 1.5th centuries. The neighbouring collegiate
church and cloister (12th and 13th cent.) are also remarkable. Of the
Castle^ to the W. of (he town, there remains little more than a square keep.
11 M. Castillon, memorable for the defeat which definitely cost the
English Guienne, in 1453. John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, was among
the slain.
Beyond (221/2 M.) St. Antoine-Port- Ste. Fay, the Dordogne is crossed.
24 M. Ste. Foy- la -Grande, a town of 3180 inhabitants. 32 M. Lamonzie-St.
Martin. Then the Dordogne is recrossed.
38 31. Bergerac (Grand Ildtel; IJOt. des Voyagezirs)^ a town of 14,353 in-
hab. on the Dordogne, was one of the Calvinist strongholds of the 16tli
century. Notre-Dame is a fine modern church in the style of the 13th cen-
tury. A large business is done here in wines and truffles. Line to Mar-
Miande, see p. 64.
421/2 M. Creiisse-Mouleydier, ■f.yitli paper-mills, and the ruins of a castle.
After a tunnel we see a canal rendered necessary by the rapids of the
Dordogne. — 51 M. Lalinde, an ancient little town (Diolindum) ; 531/0 M.
Maiizac. Then a tunnel , two bridges over the Dordogne , and a second
tunnel. 56 M. Tremolai ; 58 M. Alles. We cross the Dordogne for the last
time. 61 M. Le Buissnn (p. 87).
Quitting Libourne, we cross the Dordogne, already a very large
stream. 195 M. AriJeyres ; 197V2 M- yayres. dominated by a castle
partly of the 13-14th centuries. 201 M. St. Sulpice-d'Izon; 203 M.
St. Louhes. At a distance, on the right, are the bridges of Cubzac
(p. 29). 205Va M. La Grave-d' Ambarh. A little farther on, to
the right, the line from Nantes is joined (R. 4), and the Garonne
now appears on that side. We pass through a series of cuttings,
over three viaducts, and through three short tunnels. — 210 V2 M.
Lormont . on the Garonne, with shipbuilding yards. Two more
tunnels and then, on the right, a splendid view of Bordeaux and its
harbour.
2I3V2M. Bordeaux (Gare de la Bastide; see p. 41). Trains
in connection with the line to the South , at the St. Jean station
(p. 41), back out a little way and make a detour to cross the Ga-
ronne by the bridge mentioned on p. 44.
2. From Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne.
156 M. Raii.ua V in 6-S hrs. (fares 27 fr. 75, 21 fr. , 15 fr. 30 c). The
trains start from the (iare de TEtat, beside the principal station.
Tours, see Baedeker' » Northern France. — The line, after pass-
ing above that to Nantes , crosses the Cher and traverses marshy
tracts. — At (3^/4 M.) Jone'-les-Tours., the line to Loches-Chateau-
roux fp. 33) branches off on the left. 6V4 M. Ballan. Pope Martin
IV. (Simon de Brion , d. 1285) was born in the neighbouring
Chateau de la Carte, the chapel of which has some fine stained
glass of the 16th century. iO^i-iM. />cin/e; IS'/a M. Vallireg.
CHINON. 7. Route 2. 13
IG M. Azay-le-Kideau (Hot. du (inind Monarque) , a town of
2126 iiiliab., with an interesting; Renaissance *Chdfeaii.
A branch-line runs hence to (12 M.) Croiizilles-St. Gilles (Port-de-Pile?).
for the Camp du Riichard (Si/aM.), estahlished in the "landes' of that name.
The line crosses the Indre. and beyond (2OV2 ^^•) H'larennes
traverses the forest of Chinon. 24 M. St. Benoht ; 27 M. Huismes.
Before Chinon. which is seen on the right, a tunnel of 1000 yds. is
passed through.
31 M. Chinon {Hot. de Frnnce , Place de rH6tel-de-Ville;
lioiUe d'Or. on the quay) is a commercial town (pop. 6205), pret-
tily situated on the eminences of the right bank of the Vien^ie,
and celebrated for its history and its castle. It consists almost en-
tirely of narrow and tortuous streets in which are still seen houses
of the 15th and 16th centuries.
Chinon already existed in the Roman period, under the name of Caino.
Subsequently it was occupied by the Visigoths, belonged to the kingdoms
of Paris and Austrasia, then to the Counts of Touraine and to Henry II.
of England, who was fond of the town and died here in 1189. Reunited
to France early in the 13th cent., it nevertheless changed hands frequentl.v
up to the beginning of the 15th century. It was here that Joan of Arc
sought audience of Charles VII. in 1428 to induce him to march to the
relief of Orleans.
On the quay is a Statue of Rnhelah, born at or near Chinon about
1495 , a modern bronze by Em. Hubert. Opposite is the Place de
rHotel-de-Yille, whence the Rue St. Kiienne leads to the right to the
Rue du Pu>-des-Bancs, the principal approach to the castle.
The Castle of Chinon really consisted of three distinct castles.
The Chateau de St. Georges (the least ancient), of which only the
base of the curtain-wall remains, lies to the right of the entrance
to the two others, whose ruins are surrounded by a tine promenade,
public from noon till dusk in summer on Sundays and holidays.
The Chateau du Milieu was built on the site of the Roman castrum
in the 11th cent, and was often repaired. Its chief parts are the
Pavilion de IFIorloge, at the entrance (ring), the Grand Logis, and
the donjon or keep. The Chateaii du Coudray has still a flne tower
with a chapel of the 13th cent., and two round towers.
J^'ear the foot of the approach to the castle is the church of St.
Etienne. of the 15th cent., with a beautiful doorway, some flne stained
glass and a handsome modern gallery. It also still possesses a cope,
said to have belonged to St. Mesme, which dates from the 10th or
11th century.
Farther on , in a continuation of the Rue St. Etienne . is the
ruined church of St. Mesme, of which two Romanesque and Gothic
towers are the chief remains. Adjoining is a tasteful modem
Gothic Chapel. On the opposite side , at the end of the Rue St.
Maurice, which also starts from the Place de THotel-de-Ville, and
in which there are some interesting old houses, is the church of St.
Maurice, of the 12th, 15th, and 16th cent., with a steeple partly
Romanesque, and flne vaulted arches. Among the paintings arc a
14 /. Route 2. LOUDUN. From Tours
large fresco by Grandiii and a Madonna attributed to Sassoferrato,
on the last pillar to the right.
Bbanch Line to (91/2 M.) Fort-Boulet, on the line from Tours to Nantes;
see Baedeher't Northern France.
From Chinon to Port - de- Piles , 231/2 M. , railway in lV4-lV2hr.
(fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 55 c). This branch diverges to the left from
•the line to Sables beyond the bridge and ascends the valley of the
Vienne. — From (3 M.) Ligr^-Ririere^ a branch-line runs to (10 51.) Riche-
lieu (pop. 2471), the birthplace of the famous Cardinal (1585-1642), who
made a handsome town of it and built in it a splendid castle of which
nearly nothing remains. At Champigny - mr -Vends , the preceding station
(3 M.), there also stood a magnificent eastle, of which the chapel is still
extant, built in the early Renaissance style, and adorned with beautiful
stained glass by K. Pinaigrier. — 101/2 M. Jle-Bouchard, a small town
containing the ruins of an 11th cent, priory, and near which is a large
dolmen. — At (12i/.i 31.) Crouzilles-St.Gilles, we ioin the branch-line from
Azay-le-Rideau (p. 13). — 231/2 31. Port-de-Piles (p. 3).
The railway crosses the Vienne at Chinon and affords a striking
view of the town. — 34 M. La Roche -Clermanlt. Beyond (38 M.)
Beuxes the keep of Loudun is seen on the left.
45^/2 M. Loudun (Buffet; Hot. des lies, near St. Pierre-du-
Marche), the Jidiodinutm of the Romans, is built on an eminence
(pop. 4528). It played an important part in the Religious Wars and
gave its name to an edict favourable to the Protestants in 1616; but
it is still better known for the trial of the cure Urbain Grandier,
Avho was burnt alive in 1634, on a charge of sorcery.
Loudun has still many old streets, narrow and dark. Turning to
the left at the end of the Rue de la Gare, then to the right into the
Rue Seche, we reach St. Pierre-dn- Marche', a Gothic church with a
Renaissance gateway and a lofty stone spire. The street on this
side of the Place leads ioSte. Croix, a flue Romanesque church with
nave and aisles and a transept, with ambulatory and little apses.
This church now serves as a nlarket-house. — Turning to the right
on the other side of St. Pierre - du - Marchi? . we pass the Palais de
Justice, recently built, and perceive on the left the lofty square
Keep of the old 12th cent, castle which is in a close. — The street
to the left, on the other side of the Palais, leads to St. Pierre-du-
Martray. a church with some good details in the Flamboyant style.
— Still farther is the Porte du Martray ., the chief remaining por-
tion of the old fortifications of the town.
From Loudun to Angers (Saumur) see Baedeker's Northern France.
From Loudun (Angers) to Ciiatellekault (p. 3), Sli/o M., railway in
1 V4 br. (fares 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 45 c.). The principal station is
(2OV2 M.) LencloHre ., a town which has sprung up around au abbey of
which the Romanesque church is still extant.
From Loudun to Poitiers, 431/2 M., raihvav in 2-61/2 hrs. (fares 8 fr.
45, 6 fr. 35, 4 fr. 65 c.). — 5 M. Ar<;ay (see p. 15). 121 /.j M. Monconiour , a
village famous for the victory of the Duke of Anjou (Henri III.) over
the Protestants commanded by Coligny in 1569. It has a ruined castle
and a keep of the 13th century. Branch to (lOM.) Airvault (p. 15). — 231/2 M.
Afireheait, with the remain.s of fortifications ; 33 M. Neuville-de-Poitou, the
junction of the Parthenay line (see below).
The railway skirts Loudun on the side of the Porte du Martray.
to Les Sables dOlonne. THOUARS. I. lioiite 2. 15
— 50 M. Affay . where the Poitiers line branches off (see above).
oS'/a M. Pas-de-Jeu, at the head of the Canal de la Dive.
About 21/3 M. to the S.W. is Oiron, with a Castle of the 16th cent.,
which was inhabited by Mme. de Montespan. It was ravaged at the Re-
volution, but some remarkable features remain. The rooms are still richly
decorated, particularly with frescoes from the ^Eneid. Here too may be
seen enamelled plaques which probably came from the same manufactory
as the splendid faiences of Henri II. at the Louvre. The old Chapel, which
is now used as a parish church, contains four line mausoleums executed
in marble by Italian artists, but sadly mutilated by the Huguenots in
1568. There are four dolmens in the park of Oiron.
61 M. Thou&rs (Buffet; Hot. du Cheval-Blanc, Grande-Rue; de
la Gave, unpretending), a town with 4992 inhab., on the Thouet, the
capital of the powerful viscounts of Thouars, who were almost always
partizans of the English kings , down to 1372 , when the town was
won back to France by Bertrand du Guescliu. Afterwards it was
for a long time in the hands of the Dues de la Tr^moille, who built
the castle. From the station to the town '/2M., to the casle 1 M.
The Castle is a spacious structure of the 16th cent., built on steep
cliffs above the river. It is now used as a house of detention and
cannot be visited without a special order; but visitors may obtain
admission (after 10 a. m.) to the chapel, called Ste. Chapelle. a fine
example of the Gothic style, finished in 1514. It has a crypt cut
out in the rock, with the vault of the Tr^moille family. Fine view
of the valley of the Thouet from the terrace in front of the castle
and from the chain-bridge farther to the right.
Among the other churches, St. Laon and St. Medard, of the
12th and 15th cent., may be mentioned.
Line to rails - Saumur via Montreuil - Bellay (Angers) , see Baedeker's
Northern France.
From Thouaes to Niort, 55 M., railway in 21/2-41/4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 90
8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 5 c). This section of the new line from Paris to Bordeaux
vii Saumur quits the Sables line beyond the viaduct (see below) and
ascends the valley of the Thouet. — 15 M. Airvault (Hot. des Voyageurs),
a little town in which the church of St. Pierre, an old abbey-church, is
a very noteworthy example of the Romanesque style of the 10th cent.;
it was repaired in the 12th. Here, too, are the remains of a strong castle.
— The Thouet is crossed, i/jM. higher up, by an 11th cent, bridge with
eleven arches, called Pont de Yernay. Branch to Moncontour , see p. 14.
— 171/2 31. 'SV. Loup-sur-Thouet, with a chateau of the 17th century.
28 M. Parthenay (Hot. Tranchant), a picturesque place of 6646 inhab.,
is still surrounded with ramparts of the I2-13th cent., which formed three
lines of defence. It played an important part in the wars against Eng-
land in the Middle Ages, in the Religious Wars, and in those of the Vendee.
The ruins of Notre-Dame-de-la-Couldre , in the Romanesque style, are also
noteworthy. — Line to Poitiers, see above.
50 M. Echiri, a country - town where the S'evre-Siortaise is crossed,
dominated by the impressive ruins of the Chateau du Couldray-Salbart,
built in the 9th century. — 55 M. Siort (p. 18).
The Sables -d'Olonne line now makes a great curve and crosses
a viaduct 125 ft. high and 850 ft. long, which affords a fine view on
the left, of Thouars. The railway ascends nearly to Cerizay and the
pasturage of the district grows like that of the Bocage (see below).
16 /. Boute -2. LA ROCHE -SUR- YON. \
68 M. Coulonges-Thouarsais ; 74 M. I^oirterre, beyond wh,.
we rejoin and follow the line from Nantes (Angers) to Poitier
noting on the left the tine steeple of Bressuire.
79 M. Bressuire (*Biiffet; Hotel da Dauphin), with 4166inhab.,
occupies a hill on the left. Like Thouars, it has played a part in
the wars with England, and was taken by Bertrand du Guesclin
in 1371. It has a very curious Castle of the 12th and 15th cent.,
half in ruins, half restored, and visible to the right of the via-
duct before entering the station. It has two lines of defence with
48 towers. — The church of Notre-Dame belongs chiefly to the
12th and loth cent., and has a steeple finished in the style of the
Renaissance.
From Bressuire to Niort, 48M., railway in 2-2l/2hrs. (fares, 9fr.45,
7 fr. 5, 5 t'r. 20 c.). — Scenery and .stations generally of little interest. —
91/2 M. Monco^itant, where flax is cultivated and a woollen situfl" made
which is called breluche. Farther on the Skvre -Nantaise is crossed. —
31 M. Cotilonges-sur-Autise , with a castle of the 16th century. — 881/2 M.
Benet. Line to Velluire , see p. 24. — lU/a M. Coulon, beyond which we
cross the Sevre-Niortaise. — 48 M. Mart (p. 18).
89 M. Cerizay , with a modern chateau on the right. We cross
the Sevre-Nantaise. — 92^/2 ^1- ^f- Mesmin-le-Vieux. We are now
in the Vende'e and in the Bocage district famous in the annals of
the Revolution. The land here is divided into square plots, each
5 to 7 acres in area, fenced in by hedges 6 to 10 ft. in height, orna-
mented with trees.
97Va M. Pouzauges. The large village, beautifully situated on
the slope of a hill, 2V2 M. to the N., boasts of the ruins of a large
and picturesque keep of the 13 -14th cent., which once belonged
to the famous Gilles de Laval, called 'Bluebeard". In the neigh-
bourhood are several interesting castles , picturesque ruins , and
fine points of view.
104 M. Chavagnes-les-Eedoux. The line crosses the Grand-
Lay on both sides of the station. — 112M. Chantonnay (pop. 4000).
The line, which intersects a very hilly tract, makes a wide curve
to the left, followed by two cuttings and a viaduct affording a fine
view. — Beyond (120 M.) Bottrnezau is a forest. 125 M. La Chaize-
le-Vicomte, with 2609 inhabitants. Crossing the Voi we then re-
join the line from Nantes to La Rochelle and Bordeaux (K. 4).
133 M. La Roche - sur - Yon , formerly Napole'on and Bourbon-
Vende'e (Buffet j Hot. de I' Europe, in tlie Place; Hot. des Voya-
geurs , at the station), with 11,773 inhab., the chief town of the
department of the Vendee, on a hill washed by the Yon. There
was formerly a strong castle here which was a place of importance
both in the English and Religious wars. The town having become
the chief place of a prefecture. Napoleon I. erected numerous build-
dings which are anything but remarkable. It is now a modern
town, regularly bnilt and almost without interest. The large Place
Napoleon, in the centre, which is reached from the station via the
LE8 :>;aBLE8-1>0L0N.NE. 1. Route. 2. IT
■i/Oulevard on the right, and the Kue des Sables, to the left, is adorn-
«d with an equestrian bronze Statue of Napoleon I. . by De Nie-
erkerke. Here also is the Hotel de Viile. with a garden behind it
containing a small museum of paintings and antiquities. On the
other side of the Place is the Ch'dcli, the interior of whieh is in
good taste and shows some flue modern stained glass. A little
farther to the right, in a small square, is the Statue of General,
Tracot (1767-1836' paciflcator of tiie Vendee' during the Hundred
Days, an indifferent bronze by Maindron.
From La Roche-sur-Yon to Xantes and La Rochelle see R. 4.
Proceeding from La Roche-sur-Yon we see on the left the statue
of Napoleon (see above). Beyond (138' ., M.) Les Clouzeaux, to the
right, in the distance, is the Chateau de la Bassetiere. 145 M. La
Mothe - Arhftrd : li}[^.,M. Otonne. To the right lie salt marshes-
with large heaps of salt, aiul a succession of sand-dunes.
150 -M. Les Sables-d'Olonne. - Hotels. Gra.nu-HiViel i>e la Plage
& .Splisi>uid-Hotei. . Hot. du Remblai, Hot. Coitinental. GRAND-Hotel
w Casi>o. all on the beach: Hotel he France, du Cheval-Bi.asc, Jovet,
in the town.
Restaurant. Clialeif de la Plage. — Caf6s. Cafe de la Plage: Orand
Ca/i^, Place du Jlinage. near the Heuiblai.
Sea-Baths. .Machine and towel 30 c. ; bathing-dress 30 c.
Casino, adni. 1 fr.: pei- month .30 !>.
Donkeys, iJO c. per hour.
British Vice-consul: .1//. T/ttod. Lelievie.
Lf" S>iblt;.<-d'Olo)tite is a uuich-frequented sea-bathing place,
with a small harbour and 11,070 inhabitants. Its magnificent sandy
beach, sloping gently towards the S. and stretching in a semicircle
for a distance of about 1 .M., is flanked by a wide esplanade called
the Remblai . with a carriage-road and tuimerous handsome villas.
The town, however, is badly built, and the church is its only
object of interest.
To reach the beach from the station we turn to the right, into
the Rue de rHotel-de-Ville . and then follow the first street to the
left. Carriages turn to the left farther on, at the Church, a Late-
Gothic building, with fine vaulting. To the AV. of the Remblai
i. e. to the right as we reach the shore, is the Casino, and farther
on the narrow Channel leading to the harbour. Beyond the latte.
rises the .\vundel Tower, a modern erection with battlements and
machicolations, which serves as a light-house. Adjacent are the
ruins of a chateau of the same name. Here, too, lies the unim-
portant suburb of La Chanine. near which the shore forms a pro-
montory bearing a small fort.
The Harbour, to the X. . between the town and this suburb,
comprises a dry dock, a floating dock, and a graving dock. Near it
there are Oy.<ter Parks, and farther off, some Salt Marches which
may be reached via La Chaume (ferry 5 c).
On this side the shore is bordered by dunes; to the .S.E. are
curious rocks, some niius, and a wood of evergreen oaks.
Baedeker. Southern France. 2
iS /. Route ;L ST. MAIXENT. riom Poitiers
On Siiiidays and festivals in the season tlievarieii head-dresses of
the coinitn-women at I.es Sables will attract the visitor's attention.
3. From Poitiers to La Rochelle (and Eochefort).
ityji. Kailway in SVs-Shi-s. (fares 17 fr. 85, 13 fr. 40, 9 tV. 80 c.). —
The line to Rochefort (88 M.) diverges at Aigrefeuille . 11 W. before I.a
Rochelle (p. 20).
Poitiers, see p. 3. The Aiigouleme line is followed as far as
(3 M.) St. BenoU (p. 7). Beyond (12 M.) Coidombiers we cross the
pretty valley of the Vonne by two lofty viaducts.
16 M. Lusignan (Hotel. Ste. Catherine), a picturesquely situated
little towji. partly on the bank of the Vonne and partly on a hill
<_'rowiied with the inconsiderable remains of the Chnteau of the
illustrious family which gave kings to Jerusalem and Cyprus. This
stronghold is fabled to have been built by the fairy Melusine, whose
name is probably derived from the earliest chatelaine, the 'Mother
of the Lusignans' ('mere des Lusignans'; Merlusina, Melusine). The
chateau was destroyed in the Religious Wars. The interesting
church dates from the ll-12th centuries.
From Lusignan a diligence plies to Sanzay, a country-town 'Jl/.^ M, to
the N.W., in the valley of the Vonne, where considerable C'eUic-Rouian
remains of the 2nd cent, of the present era were discovered in 1881-83,
including a temple, baths, a circus, and a large hostelry. There is no
record of the existence of a town on tliis spot, but it is supposed fo
have been a watering-place with a hydropathic establishment.
'iOVa M. Rouillc; 25 M. Pamprour. In the neighbourhood is
the Roche Rnffin, a grotto with an underground lake. - 29 M. La
Mothe-Sf. He'raye, a siuall town, most of the inhabitants of which,
as of many other places in this district, are Protestants. We then
outer the valley of the Sevre-Nioi-tai!ie.
34 M. St. Maixent (Hotel des Etrangers) , a town of 5565 in-
liab., on the Sevre-Niortaise. has an interesting church of the 12-
15th cent., iu great part destroyed by the Calvinists in 1562 and
1568, but rebuilt in 1670-82 on the original plan. The fine tower
over the W. front, with its truncated spire, dates from the 15th
century. The oldest part is the crypt, which contains the tomb of
St. Maxentius (d. 515) , the second abbot of the monastery round
which the town grew up. This monastery, rebuilt in the 17th cent..
now serves as a school for non-commissioned officers.
The line now ascends and then descends rapidly to (40 M.) La
Creche.
49 -M. Niort {Buffet: * Hotel, dii Haisiu . Hue Victor-Hugo o8;
<les Etrnnijer^, Rue des Cordeliers 8; de Frutice. Place du Temple),
a place with 23,015 inhab. on the Sevre-Niortaise, is the chief town
of the department of the Deiix-Serrcs. Handed over to Kngland with
the domains of Eleanor of Aquitaine (p. 4). it was several times taken
.iiid retaken in the Hundred Years War. on the last occasion (1372) by
to Ln liovhelle. MORT. /. Houte 3. 19
Beitraud du Guesclin. Its Calvinist sympathies also led to con-
siderable suffering in the Religious Wars. The chief industrj of Niort
is in hides and skins, and gloves are largely manufactured here.
Me enter the town, to the right, by the Rue de la Gare and tlie
Rue St. Hilaire. Near the end of the latter street is the large mo-
dern church oi St. Hilaire, in a debased style. Adjacent is the spa-
cious Place, de la Breche, adorned with flower-beds and statues
in bronze and marble. Turning to the riglit (W.) and following
the Rue Ricard, we next reach the Rue Victor-Hugo, the chief street
of the town. The Rue du Pilori, on the right, leads to the so-called
Palais cV Eh'onore, the old Hotel de Ville. The present building,
flanked by two round machicolated towers , dates from 1520-30.
It contains the Musee De'partemental . a (lollection of antiquities
and casts (open on Sun. and Thurs. 12-4 or 5). Farther on, to the
left, is the church of St. Andrew, lately rebuilt in the style of the
15th cent., and still farther on is the beautilul Jardin Pvblic. laid
out on a slope by the river-side and affording pleasant views.
We now return by the Quays to the Hall.es, a tasteful iron struc-
ture at the end of the Rue Victor-Hugo. On the other side is the
Kfeji iDonjiin) of a castle built by Henry Plantagenet, which con-
sisted mainl), of two large towers with turrets. In the Place du
Donjon is a monument to A. Riraid. a local advocate, who rose
to be a minister in 1876. Beyond the keep are the Prefecture, the
Palais de Justice, and Notre- Dame, the chief church of Niort. re-
built iu 1491-1534. The N. portal is embellished with a curious
balustrade, and under the tower is a haiidsome canopy in the style
of the Renaissance.
In the Rue St. Nicholas, near the Palais de Justice and Notre-
Panie. is the Mvse'e de Peinture, occupying an old convent and
open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from noon till 4 or 5, to
strangers on other days also. The first floor is devoted to sculptures-,
drawings, casts and Natural History collections, while on the second
floor is a picture-gallery, containing about 200 paintings, including
some good works of the Italian School, for the most part by un-
known masters, and several works of the early French School. On
the landing place of the first floor arc 72 painted woodcarvings of
tin- 1 0th cent, in the Flemish style, representing Biblical subjects.
Froui Nidrt to Bres.^iiire and to Angers, .see p. 16 anrt Baedeker'' s Nor-
iliern France.
From Niort to Saintes, 48 M., railway in l'V4-3hri!. (fares 9 fr. 20,
7 Ir., 5 fr. 10 c). — Beyond (3»/4 M.) ^i/fres'the line to Kulfee (.see below)
diverges to the left. — 18 M. Villenenve -la-Cointes.'se, with tlie intere.sting
remains of an old chateau, — 30 M. St. Jean - d' Angf61y (Flotel de France),
a town with 7255 inhab., on the right bank of the Boiitonne, which here
forms a small harbour. The town owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey,
destroyed in 1568 by the Calvinists, who had made the place one of their
chief .strongholds. It was taken the following year by the Duke of Anjou
(Henri III.) and in 1621 by Louis XIII., who levelled its fortifications.
Among the objects of interest are some remains of the abbey and its
church, rebuilt in the 18th cenl. : a tower of the 15th cent. : au old market-
'2U /. Uotile J. LA JiUCHELLE.
Iiimse; and tlie Itiuii^e statue, by Uogiiio, of Jieijiiaiid ile -St. Jean-d'Anye[f
(tl. 1819). a distinguished politician and lather of the mai-shal of that
name. — At (41i/o Bl.) Taillebouig we join the Rochefort line fp. 26).
FitoM NioRT TO lluFKEO. oll/o 31.. railwav in 3-41/-, hrs. (fares 9 fr. 9o-,
I fr. rX). 5 fr. 50 c). — 33/4 JI. Aiffres. On the right 'diverges the line to
Saintes (see above). — SOl/.j SI. Kelle (Hotel fite. Catherine), an ancient town,
with 2835 inhab.. built partly on the bank of the Be'ronne and partly oa
a steep hill, which contained a silver and lead mine worked by the Ro-
mans. The chief building is the Church of St. Ililaire, in the lower part
of the town, dating from the 12th cent, and containing some interesting
sculptures. St. Pierre, in the upper part of the town, is of the same period.
— 231/2 31. Maziires-St. Boniaiis. Xear JIazieres is a modern chateau, with
the line Tour de Melziard of the lotli century. We now ascend the valley
(»f the Bouionne, a tributary of tlie Charente. which rises near (34l/.i JI.)
(hef-IioutOHue. — olVA. M. Jiufec, see p. 8.
r)4'/., -M. Frontenaii- Rohan ; 57 M. Epannei. The train tra-
vei>e.s a marshy district. 6'2 M. Mauzv; lolM.. St. Geuryes-Ju-Bois ;
(59', 2-^1- Sur^eres . a small town with a Komaiiesque church of the
J2tli cent.; 73 M. Chambvii ; 79 .M. A/f/refeuille.
from Aigrefeuille a brancli-line runs to (91 /^jM.) Koche/ort (p. 25),
passing Cire, with a 16th cent, chateau.
83 M. La Jarrie. The line describes a wide curve to reach La
Rochelle. which is seen in the distance to the right, and joins the
Nantes and Bordeaux line (R. 4).
90 M. La Rochelle. Hotels. Hotei. i>k Fkance, Hue Gargouleau
26; Hot. des Etk.vngers. Rue des Trois-JIarteaux 12: Hot. du Commerce,
Vlace d".\rmes. — *Restaurant du Palais, Rue du Palais, dej. 21/^ fr. —
('((/eK in the Place d'Armes. — Post and Telegraph Office, Rue du Pafais 12.
— Sea -Baths at the Mail (p. 21): Bains de la Concurrence, unpretending;
Jlains Louise, similar, for ladies ; Bains du Mail, Bains Richelieu, with hotels,
casinos, cafes, etc. — British Vice-consul : Afr. R. .S'. Warburton. — Steam-
boat to the He de Re, see p. 23.
La Rochelle, a seaport with '28,329 inhab.. a fortress of the
second class, and the seat of a bishopric, was the ancient capital of
the Pays Aunis, and is now the chief town of the department of
tlie Charente Iiife'iieure. It is situated on a bay in the Straits of
Aiitioche, sheltered by the islands of 1{^ and Ole'ron.
Wliether this town was the Partus Santonum of the Kouiaus is un-
certain. It iirst appears in unquestioned history at the end of the
10th cent, under the name of Rupella. Incorporated with England to-
gether with Aquitaine , it was permanently restored to France in 1372,
after which it enjoyed two centuries of commercial prosperity, brought
to an end by the outbreak of the Religious Wars. Protestantism already
counted many converts here when Conde and Ooligny made the town
their headquarters in 1568. It was the chief stronghold of the Hugue-
nots, and tlie cruisers of La Rochelle were well-known in the Atlantic
and the English Channel. In 1.572-73 the town successfully withstood
a siege of upwards of si.v months. The re-awakening of religions bitter-
ness in the reign of Louis XIII. hurried it into fresh contests (1622, 1626,
1627 -2S) in which it was less successful. In the last of these it had
taken advantage of the hostilities l)etween France and England, and the
latter country despatched more than one expedition to its relief, the
cliief of which failed through the blundering of its commander, the Duke
of Jiuckingham. Richelieu succeeded in completely investing it. closed
the port by a dyke, part of which still e.xists (see below), and. after a
siege of 13nionlhs. starved it into surrender. The fall of La Rochelle
destroyed the political power of the Huguenots, who never recovered
from this blow, Iticheliou. however, did not abuse his victory. In 1809
LA KOCHKf.U:. /. Huuie :i. '21
tlie English made an unsuccessful attempt to destroy tin- French fleet at
La Rochelle. The chief articles of the trade of J-a Hoehelle, which
suftered greatly from the loss of Canada by France, are timtier, coal,
brandy, wine, vinegar, salt, preserved meats, and grain. Fishing is also
actively pursued and forms a staple industry. Among famous natives of
the town mav be mentioned Ue'aumur (d. 17o7). J'onpland, the naturalist
(d. 1858), and .\dmiral Uuperrt- (d. 1846*.
From the station tlie town is eiiterefl by tlie Porte de lit Grire
Or .^/. Sirlidlns. erpctod in 1857. Tlie fortifications were coiistruct-
p(i by Vaiibaii in the reign of Louis XIY.. tlie old works, except
those on the seaward side, having been demolished after the siege
of IG^T-^S. They form an unbroken line about o'/a M- ii» lengtli.
strengthened with bastions, redans, and a hornwork (near the station).
The H.\RnovR. a little to tlie left of the entrance to the town,
is partly witliin and partly without the walls. Outside are the
Outer Uiirhoiir. and a Floathit/ Dock : inside are a Cnreeninii Basin.
a [>rf/ Dock, a Canal, and the lienej-voir of Mauhec. the waters of
which serve to scour the harbour. — Port de la Pallice. see below.
The Coiirs des Darner or Richard . on the other side of the dry-
dock, is onibellished with a bronze Statue of .\d7niral Duperre. by
P. Herbert. Opposite is the Porte de In (fros-se-IIorloge , the only
old gate remaining, a large square tower with round turrets of the
14-1 5th cent., altered in the ITtli and 18th centuries.
At the entrance to the dry-dock are two old towers: the Tour
SI. Mcolas (1384) to the left, and the Tour de la Chaine (147G)
on the right (facing the sea), the first round, the second square
with four round turrets. The harbour was formerly closed with a
chain, ami the two towers seem to have been united by a Gothic
arch under which the ships passed. A little farther on. in a straight
line, is the J.antern Tower, built at the same time as the Tour
de la riiaine. and deriving its name from having served as a light-
house. It is round, flanked by two turrets, and surmounted h\ a
stone spire. In the distance, by the Outer Harbour, rises the black
and white Richelieu Tou-er . with a bell rung by the waves, which
warns vessels of the dyke above mentioned. The dyke itself is
seen at low-tide. The Porte de Mer , or I'orte de.'i Deu.r-Monlin.t.
near the Lantern Tower, leads to the Outer Harbour and to the
littlhinfi-place (p. 20\ the arrangements of which are good, though
the bottom is covered with pebbles and shells. Above the bathing-
place extends the Mail, a promenade planted with trees and afford-
ing a series of fine views.
Beyond llie bathing-place, 3 M. from the harbour proper, lies the P<^it
tie la Pallice, a new basin or rather harbour, constructed since 1883 in the
deep bay ot that name, opposite the He de llt\ When completed it will
consist of an outer harbnur and a dock 2300 ft. in length or aliout '29
acres in area, with quavs 5900 ft. in lengtli. and a depth of at least
28 ft. The total cost of tlie works is estimated at 75,000/.
At the Porte de la Gros.se-Horloge (see above) begins the wide
Rue du I'aiais. flanked, like several others, with arcades. .\t one
corner, to the right, is an interesting house, built in 1554. Farther
22 /. fioute 3. LA ROCHELLE.
on stand the Bourse and the Paldis de Justice, buildings of the
18th and 17th centuries. The Kiie du Palais is continued by the
Kue Chaudvier, from which the Rue des Augustins diverges to the
right. In this last, No. 11 , at the end of a court, is the House of
Ifeiiri 11.. the most quaint and interesting of the ancient houses
of La Rochelle.
The C'atheukal (St. Louis or St. Bitrllie'leiny), farther on, at
the corner of the Rue Chaudrier and the Place d'Armes, was rebuilt
between 1742 and 1862 in the Greek style. Behind it is a Tou-er of
the 14th cent., a relic of the original church. The cathedral con-
tains modern stained-glass windows and paijitings , among which
we may notice the ceiling of the Chapel of the Virgin, in the apse,
in the same chapel is the monument of Mgr. Landriot (d. 1874),
with a tine marble statue by L. Thomas.
The square Place d'Armes, the largest 'place' in the town, ex-
tends hence to the W. as far as the ramparts.
The Rue Gargouleau, to the E. , leads to tiie Library, which
contains about 25,000 vols, and 200 M8S. and is open on Tues.,
Thurs. , and Sat. afternoons. T\\g Museum, in the same building
(open on Sun. & Thurs. from 12 to 4 , and on other days also to
strangers), is of little interest, the chief contents being some modern
French pictures by A. de Pujol , Antigna, Bouguereau, and Fro-
mentin; a painting of the great siege of La Rochelle by Van der
Kabel ; and works by Giordano and Vien.
The Rue St. Yon, diverging to the right at the end of the
Rue Gargouleau, leads to the Motel de Yille, the most interesting
building in La Rochelle. It was erected in 1486-1B07, partly in
the Gothic and partly in the Renaissance styles, and has lately been
restored. Its most remarkable external features are a richly sculp-
tured gallery with a parapet, and two projecting belfries with corbels.
On the larger, to the left, is a recess with armorial bearings. The
facade towards the court, consisting of two distinct parts, is still
more interesting. The smaller part, to the left, is of the time of
Henri II. and has a modern staircase in front, with a painted
statue of that monarch. The ground-floor of the part to the right
is formed of an arcade with tine semicircular arches and a sculp-
t!ired ceiling. The two upper stories are adorned with four niches
containing allegorical statues, between eight tluted columns, a dor-
mer window, pediments, and other ornaments of the time ofHenrylV.
(1607). Inside is the Council Hall in which Guiton, the mayor and
intrepid defender of the town during its blockade by Richelieu,
swore to stab any one who should suggest surrender.
In tlie iieiij;hl)Oiirlio(Ki (if La Kocliellc are numerous Salt - ^far.<'/lt:.'^ a
visit to which is iuteresting. Jlost of them lie just beyond the hornwork
mentioned at p. 21.
From I. a Kochelle t(t iVante.': and to Kocliefort and liordeaux, see It. 4.
'I'lie He de Hi, alxiut 10 31. to the W. of I,a Roclielle. bat not more
llian 2lA.-3)l. from tho little port of /ai /(''pfiiti" (Inn) at tli.i AV. end of
CLISSON. /. JloHte 4. %i
the I'liadstead, is about IS 31. lung and 2i/o-3 M. wide. It i.s tliiclvly popu-
lated (15,557 inhab.) but of little general interest, consisting to a great
extent of produetivi' salt-uiarshes. A steamer plies daily from La Kochelle
lu Si. Martin-de-Re in ll/4-2hrs. (fares 21/2 <>'• '- fr-, return 33/4 or Sfr.l.
Inierinediate station. La Flotte. Or we may proceed by omnibus to (3 31.)
I. a l.'epentie (60 c.) and take the steamer thence (four times daily; fare
75 C.I to Ilivedoux, whence another omnibus runs to (5V'> M.) St. iMar-
lin (1 fr.).
St. Martin-de-IU (Hot. du Bateau a Vapeur) is a small town and purt
on the N. side of the island, with 2838 inhabitants. It sull'ered much iu
(he English wars; its fortilications are the work iif Vauban. St. 3Iartiu
is the depot from whicli convicts are shipped to New Caledonia.
The lie iVOUron may also be reached by a steamer from La Rochelle.
which calls at BnyavdciUe (21/2 lirs.; 3 or 21/4 fr.): but it is more com-
nmnly visited tVom Kocliefort (se(> p. 26).
4. From Nantes to Bordeaux.
a. Via Clisson and La Kochelle.
236 M. Kaii.way in 91/4 ■ 12 hrs. (fares 39 fr. 25, 29 fr. 53 , 21 fr. 55 c).
The trains start from the Oare de VEtat, but call at the Oare d'OrUans
U uiin. later. At Kordeaux they arrive at the Garc Hi. Jean , not at the
Care de la Bastide (p. 41).
Mantes, see Baedeker's Surthern Fnune. — The line cro.sses
Mxeral arms of the Loire, of wliich, as well as of Nantes itself, it
affords a striking view. — 4'/2 M- VertoK, a country-town, pictur-
esquely situated 1 V4 M. to the right. — 9'/* M. La Haie-Fona.'isiere :
VIM. Le Pallet, the birtliplace of Abelard and of Astrolabe . the
sou of ileloYse. r.i'jcind it the Sen-e- Simtaise is crossed. — 15 M.
Gorges.
17 M. Clisson i Jlohl de /' Euroye), a town with 'il);]i) inhab.. piet-
tily situated on .1 liill at the confluence of theSexre tind the Moiiu.
The latter river is crossed by a liandsome viaduct. The tow 11 hasaiven
it> name to a family of whicii tiie most famous representative wu.s
()li\ier de Clisson. Constable of France (d. 1407,>, one of tlip
most distinguislied champions of France iu her wars \\ itli Knaland.
The old feudal Castle (13 -loth cent.) and the town itself were
destroyed in 1793-94 in the wars of the Vendee, so tltat nothing
ainient now remains except tin; interesting and picturesqne ruins
(if the castle. On the capture of the latter many of the inhabitants
are said to have been thrown alive into the castle- well and left
I here to perisli miserably. The town was rebuilt in a somewli:it
peculiar style, mainly after the plans of the sculptor Lemot (177;')-
I.S'27), the owner of tlie ruins. Both the rivers are bordered with
attracti\e "Garennes" or parks, the finer of the two beinir the (lareuin-
Lemot. on tiie right hank of the Sevre. while the Carenne \;ileiitin
oc.upies both banks of tlie Moine.
Krom Clisson a Bi;.^nch K.mi.w.w runs tlirough (he vallev ni [\tv Hivre
(11 (2-i 3L) CItolei. — II JI. TorfoH-Tiffaiojex. Titfauges, a ccniutrytown ou
ail eminence on tlie left l)ank (if (he river, is dominated b\ the e.vtensive
ruins of a Castle of the 1 1th, lith. and 15th cent., wliich belonged to the
infamous Oilles de Laval, the original of the )iui-sery hero Blue Beard
(Brirbe-Bleue: p. 16). — 163/^31. j;vr>ine.f-Jforta(jiie. Jlortagne is another
24 /. livnte 4. LU^ON. From Nante?
little town in a pictiuej-que situation on the right V)ank of the Sevre,
possessing a ruined castle. We then quit the valley of the Sevre. —
24 M. Cholei, see Baedeker's Northern France.
The train now enters the Vendue, traversing that part of it
which is called the Socage (p. 16). — 24 M. Monfaigu-Vendre . a
small town, prettily situated on the Maine, which is crossed here,
was the birthplace of Lar^veillere- Lepeaux (1753-1824). one of
the five members of the Directory. A monnment was erected to him
in 1886. - oO'/a M. L'Herberge'menl;AOM. })ellevilIe-Vencle'e.
48 M. La Roche-sur-Yon (see p. 16).
53*/2 M. Se^my ; 61 M. Champ- St. Piie. The hedges separat-
ing the fields now disappear and are replaced by trenches. —
06'/2 M. La Bretonniere.
71 M. Lucon {Hotel de la Tefe- Noire, near the cathedral), a town
with 6506 inhab. , is the seat of a bishopric which Richelieu held
from 1607 to 1624. The Cathedral, an old monastic foundation
of the 11th cent., was not finished till the 17th and has been lately
restored. The most noteworthy object in the interior is the pulpit,
ornamented with paintings.
Lucon stands on the X. border of the Karais, a swampy part of the
Vendee, which extends in the direction of the Breton Straits as far as the
Jiai/ of Aiguillon, with which it communicates hy a canal 9 M. in length.
Down to the 6tli cent, of the Christian era tliis district was a gulf, one
of the arms of which extended on the E. as far as Niort , wliich is now
.S7 M. distant from the sea. The gradual elevation of the district, to
which this metamorphosis is due, still continues. The entrance of the
gulf, once upwards of 18 W. in widtli. is now not more than 3 M. across.
The marshy tracts are drained by innumerable canals. The Marais affords
excellent pasturage and contains numerous productive salt-marshes, while
near the mouth of the Sevre- Niortaise are extensive 'bouehots', or
■parks' in which mussels and other shell-lish are reared for the markets
of La Roehelle. This district and the other marshy regicms fringing the
sea-shore beyond it are all more or less unhealthy.
77 M. Nalliers. Beyond (80 M.) Le Lartgon we traverse a corner
of the Marais and cross the river Vende'e. 86 M. Vetlnirr.
FnoM Velluike to Niokt. 39 M.. railwav in 2i/4-2i/.i hi-s. (fares 5 I'r. 7(1,
4 fr. 30, 3 fr. 15 c). — The second station is (TVa I*' J Fontenay-le-Comte
(Jlotel de France), a venerable town with 10,164 inhab., situated on a hiU
on the right bank of the Vendee, which here becomes navigable. It
suffered greatly during the Religious and Vendean viars . and almost all
traces of its strongly fortified castle have disappeared. The churches of
Notre-Dain^ and St. Jean have each a fine Gothic spire. The town also
possesses a handsome Kenaissance Fonntain and some interesting old
houses. At (201/., 51.1 Benet we join the Bressuire line (p. 161. — 29 M.
Niort (p. 18).
88 M. VV.r. The large village of this name lies 2'/4 M. to the left,
on a hill . which was formerly an island in the gnlf (see above), as
was also (93 M.) L' Ile-d' Elle . beyond which we cross the Shrre-
Siortaise. On this river stands (97 M.) Marans . a well-built little
town with a large grain trade. At (102 M.) .A)u1ilhi-Sf. Oiien we
quit the Marais, and farther on we skirt tlie Niorf and La RochelU
Canal, which passes through a tunnel at(107' oM.) Dompierre-mir-
Mer. the next station. To the left lie exterisi\e salt-marshes.
to Bordeaux. ROCHKFORT. /. Ronfe 4. 1^
112M. LaKochelle ip. 'iO; Buffet). Line to Poitiers, see R. ?>.
The direct line to Rochefort and Bordeaux now skirts for a con-
siderable distance the Pertuh or Strnl/s of Aiitioche. bounded bv
tlie He de \U on tlie N. and the He d't)l^ron'on the S.W. — II5V2 ^1-
AnqmiUn.'f; HTM. Ch/ifelaillon (Hot.des Bains), a small sea-bathing
resort. The ocean is steadily encroaching on the land here, and has
already engulfed the two towns of Montnieillan and Chatelaillon.
To the right, between the mainland ami the He d'01(?ron. is the
small lie d'Ai.v (o-V4M. in length and I M. in breadth), which is for-
tified. — 121 M. Le Motouillet. 125 M. Sf. Lnurent-de-la-Pre'e.
A branch-railway runs hence to (8^/4 M.) Fouvas (Ocean), a sea-bathing
place at the mouth "of the Charente. with a castle of the 14th century.
At (120 M.^ Chnrvaa the train crosses the canal of that name.
130 jM. Kochefort i Buffet : Hotel de Fi-nnre, Rue du Ilempart:
Hotel de In liovhelle . Rue Chan/.y: Grand Bacha . Rue des Fon-
deries; Cuft Frunc-ais . Place Colbert), a town and fortress with
31.256 inhab.. situated on the right bank of the Charente. 9 M. from
the sea, is a modern and regularly built place, containing little to
interest the traveller. It possesses a naval as well as a commercial
harbour, which, like the town itself, were first established by Colbert
in 1666.
The ua\al harbour and its \ast arsenal are the "lions" of Roche-
fort. To reach the entrance, which is near the end farthest from
the station, we turn to the right on entering the fortifications and
follow the Hue du Rempart and the Rue Thiers to the Rue de I'Ar-
senal. Or we may follow the Rue Begou in a .straight direction, and
then turn to the right into the Rue La Touche-Tr^ville. whence the
Rue Chanzy leads to the Rue de I'Arsenal. Between the Rue Thiers
and the Rue Chanzy are the Lyreuui and Churrh of St. Louis, two
modern buildings , the latter containing some fine stained-glass
windows, .\djaceiit is the Blare Colbert . the centre of the town,
with a fountain.
The '^Avgena.l and the Dorki/nrd cannot be visited without per-
mission, to be obtained between 8.30 and 9.30 a. ra. or between 1 and
2 p. m. at the Majorite, to the right of the Porte du Soleil, the prin-
cipal entrance, at the end of the Rue de lArseual.
This iiennissiiin is easily (ibtained and travellers are generally re-
quested to .join (ine of the groups of visitoi's waiting at the gate. It is,
however, belter to try to go alone or at least not in too large a party.
Small fee to the guide customary, thougli of/lcially forbidden.
The visit takes at least 2 hours. The departments are not always
taken in the same order, and some of the magazines anil workshops
are not shown. The Porte du Soleil \s a handsome structure in the
form of a triumphal arch. To the right are the O/Zicfs . eighteen
Buildiufi Slips, for vessels of the first rank, an interesting Model
Boom, several Store Houses, the Sail and Bififiinfi Workshops, etc.
To the left are Uej>airing and Graritui Docks, Anchors (some of
which weigh from 5 to 6 tons). Projectiles. Torpedos. Cannon, and
•2() J. lioule 4. (JLEHON. Fioin Nantes
a large Salle d'Aimes. <lecorated in a vei-y ingenious fashion with
arms or groups of arms arranged as trophies, columns, etc. A Man
of War, too. is often shown. The arsenal is said to employ 3600
workmen.
Above this part of the arsenal, but outside the enceinte, is the
\aral Pie'fecfure . which contains nothing of special interest, and
behind it is the Jaidin Fublic, a fine promenade.
Farther on, at the E. end of the naval harbour, and also outside
its enceinte, is the Commercial JIarboitr. or Cabane Carre'e. Its
two floating basins are of moderate size, but a much larger one is
being constructed higluer up the river. The chief articles of trade
at Kochefort are wine, brandy, grain, cattle, salt, timber, coal, and
salt-flsh.
On the N. side of the town, outside the fortifications, is a large
JIiLspital (800 beds), with a very deep artesian well, the water of
which has a temperature of 100° Fahr. In front of the hospital
extend the Coins d' Abloi.i and the Count Roy-Bry.
From Roeliefort tn Niort and Poitiers, see p. 18.
The lie d'Ol^ron, whieli with tlie lie de Re (p. 33) bounds the .straits
of Antioche, and is separated from tlie mainland by the Straits of Mau-
niKSfon , is a flat, fertile, and populous island, measuring ISM. in length
by 21/2-6 M. in width. There is a steamer- service to it from La Ko-
clielle Cp-23). but it is usually visited from Rochefort, either by boat (3Ion.,
Wed. , and Frid.) or by railway (to Le Chapus, 251 /.i Ji., in 2 hrs. : 5 fr. 5,
;jlr. 75, 2 fr. 80 c.) via (7 31.) Cabariot (see below) and (21 M.) Marennef,
a small town, famous for its oysters , whicli has regular diligence com-
munication with (3 M.) La Greve (p. 28: 75 c.1. From JIarennes the line
proceeds to the Pointe de Ghapus . whence a steamer crosses to Cfidteau-
d'OUron, a small fortified town with 3000 inhabitants. About 7 M. farther
(diligence) is Ht. Pierre-(VOUfon, a town of 4829 inhab. , with a cemetery
containing a pretty little bell-tower ('lanterne des morts") of the 13th century.
On (initting Kochefort our line describes a considerable curve
to regain the valley of the Charente, leaving the Poitiers line (p. 20)
to the left. — 13.S'/2 M. Tonn ay - Charente . a small town with a
harbour on the Charente. — 136 M. Cabariot (brarn-h-line to Le
Chapus, see above). — 140 M. Bordit: 146'/-2 -^f- '^'- ^<iriuien-sur-
('harente. Farther on , to the right, on the opposite bank of the
river, are the chateaux of Crai-anne^ il3-18tii cent.) and Vanlois.
lot M. I'liilleboiiry , a little town where St. Louis defeatetl the
Lnglish in 1242. Hy the treaty of Bretigny (1360) it was assigned to
the latter, but was recoveretl from tiiein by Bertrand dn Gtiesclin in
1372. It is overlooked by the ruins of ita Castle, built on a sheer
rock. We here join the line from Paris to Bordeaux via Niort
(p. 20).
157 M. Saintes (Buffet: *IIotel des Messayeries , Hot. dv Com-
luerre, both in the Rue des Messageries, to the left of the Cours
jS'atioual), u town of 17,327 inhab., the ancient capital of the San-
f07ies and afterwards of the Saintunfje . is prettily situateil on the
left hank of the Charente. It was in great favour with the Romans
to Bordeaux. SAI.NTKS. /. Route 4. 27
after their conquest uf Gaul, and still pos>e>ses the leiuaius of
several structures erected at that period.
Leaving the station we turn flrst to the left and then to the right,
and follow the Avenue Gambetta, crossing a suburb in which, within
a barrack-yard , stands the old and interesting monastic church of
Sotre-Dame, dating from the 1 1 - 12th cent., but now in a dila-
pidated (londition and no longer used for service. Over the crossing
rises a line steeple, composed of a square tower, with three arcades
on each face, which is surmounted by a drum with twelve double
arcades, the whole ending in a conical roof Avith fish-scale orna-
mentation. The church of St. Palais, also at the entrance t'l the
barracks, with its main entrance concealed by a porch . dates from
the 12-13th centuries.
The town proper is entered by a stone bridge . to the left of
which is a marble statue, by F. Talhuet (1868), of Bernard I'n-
lisay, who was born at Saintes in 1510. The old Roman bridge,
which formerly crossed the river here, was pulled down in 1844;
and the Triumphal Arrh whicli stood upon it was removed and
re-erected lower down, among the trees. The arch, erected in the
reign of Augustus in honour of Germanicus, consists of two semi-
circular archways, each IrJ ft. in span, and is decorated with pi-
lasters and engaged columns with Corinthian capitals.
On the other side of the bridge begins the Cours National, the
principal street of the town. The Rue (lAlsace-Lorraine, on the
left, leads to the old cathedral, the great tower of which is con-
spicuous. On the way to it we pass, on the right, the Old Hotel
de Ville, a Renaissance building with a small tower, containing
the Publir Library and a small Museum of Antiquities.
The Church of St. Pierre, tlie ancient cathedral, is supposed to
have been founded by Charlemagne, but it has been twice rebuilt,
and dates in its present form from the end of the I6th century.
The tower, however, with the exception of the cupola at tlie top,
is a remnant of tlie second building. <lating from the 15th cent.;
and the arms of the transept are of tiie 12th century. Below the
tower is a fine doorway in the florid Gothic style. The nave, with
its large round pillars without capitals and its flat arches, is some-
what heavy. The small cupolas of the transept also belonged to the
(lid building.
Retracing our steps to the Cours National, we continue to follow
it towards the centre of the town. On a hill to the left stood a
Roman building called the Capitol (?), which was destroyed during
the wars with the Knglish. Its site is occupied by a hospital . and
nothing remains of the Roman building but some fragments of the
walls. We now turn to the left int ) the Cours Re\erseaux.
The Church of St. Eutropius, farther to the right, is of very an-
cient foundation, but was rebuilt in the 11th cent, and altered in
the loth, and again, like the cathedral . after the Religious Wars.
t28 /. Ilotite 4. PONS. From Ncinfe-^
TIh^i fine stone spire was also added in the 15t)i century. Nothing:
has been left of the old nave, the present one being made up of
the old choir, in the Transition style, and part of the transept.
Tliere are two side-chapels with Homanesqne apses; that at the far-
ther end. now used as the choir, is of the 15th cent, and contains
some modern statues of the Apostles under old canopies. Below
the chinch there is a large and fine Romanesque Crypt of the lltli
cent., consisting of a nave and aisles with three chapels, the cen-
tral of which has been rebuilt and transformed into a sacristy.
This crypt is lighted by windows and is entered directly from the
street. Behind the high-altar is the tomb of St. Eutropins, the first
bishop of tSaintes. who suffered martyrdom here in the 3rd cen-
tury. It has recently been restored. The capitals in the crypt also
deserve notice.
In a hollow near St. Eutrope. to the right, are the ruins of the
Roman Amphitheatre, dating from the 1st or 2nd century A. D.
They are reached by the street in a straight direction, or (better) h\
a lane near the church, at the end of which we turn to the left. The
amphitheatre was oval in form, measuring 436 ft. by 354 ft. , and
•was capable of holding '20-22,000 spectators. There was but one
tier of arches, inclined towards the arena, and one 'prsecinctio', or
lobby, with three flights of steps. Of its 74 arches nine only remain
in more or less good preservation. The services of the guide are
not needed unless the visitor wishes to inspect the interior of the
arena. A street on the other side of the hollow takes us back to the
Cours IJeverseaux.
From Saintes to Niort, see p. 19; to Angouleiiie, p. 10.
161 M. Chanters, with a Romanesque church, visible to tlie
right. The train now crosses the Charente, quits its valley, and as-
cends that of the 5e»(;He. At(162V2M.) BeUlant {Tiutfet) thf line
to Ango\ileme diverges (p. 10). — 167 M. Montih-Colombier.
172 M. Pons (Buffet; IJofe' ■'<f. Chnrles). a town of 4764 inliah..
is prettily placed on a hill rising from theSeugne. */2 M. to tin'
right of the line. It has still some remains of ancient ramparts and
is dominated by a Keep of the 12th century. The adjacent Hotel
de Vilte was formerly the chateau; it dates from the 15-16th cent,
and is partly built on semicircular arches. There is also a pleasant
Jardin Pnhlic. The river banks here are very picturesque.
From Pons lo Royan, 29 M.. railway in II/4-21/4 hrs. (fare.s 5 IV. 75,
4 l>. 30, .3fr. 15 c). — From (231/.. M.) Saiijon. the .sixth station, a town
with 3290inhab., on {\\e Seudre, a l>rancli-Iine runs to (13iA> M.) Aa Tretn-
hlade . a small town siUTOunded by sall-niai-shes and sand-diine.s , and In
(I.'jM.) La Grive, its port, on tlie Seiidre, laeinsr Maiennes (p. 26) and
nfit I'ai' from the Straits of Maumiisson (p. 26). — 29 M. Roi/an, see p. T).").
177'/2!^^- Mo^nar; 180 M. CUon-xiir-Seii(jne.
ISSV'a M. Jonzac [Ecu), a town with 3237 inhab., on the Seugne.
•with a castle of the 14-18th centuries. — 189 M. Fontalne-Ozillac ;
192 M. Tiiqcrnf- Chart itzar . in a barren sandv district. 197 M.
to JiordeoK.,: NOIUMOUTIEUS. /. lio'Ue i. 'I'd
Moitfendie . a couiitiy-towii situated on a liill to the right . with a
ivstored keep of the 12th cent.; 205 M. I{i(s,iar. From (208 M.) St.
\/'///e/(s (BiifTet) a branch-line runs to (10'/2 M.) Blaye (p. 54).
Beyond i210 M.) Cariifitnc the line to Coutras (p. !!» diverges
to the left. 214 M. (iaiiiiayuef; 217 M. St. Aato/ne: 219 M.
St. Andit-de-Cubzac. a small industrial town with a liandsonie
modern chateau. Beyond i220 M.) Cnb-dc-les- Fonts the train tra-
verses a viaduct. I';'* ^I. in length, including a *Bridge over the
Donloyite. ()20 yds. long anil 72 ft. high. The piers on the banks of
the river go down 95 ft. below high-water mark and 75 ft. below the
liver-bed. The line from Paris to liordeaux also passes near this
point, to the left, crossing the river by a splendid iron U'idge
nearly 1 M. long, wliich replaces a suspension-bridge, partly destroyed
by a hurricane in 1870. The Dordogne joins the Garonne a little
way to the right, at the Bee d'Ambes (p. 54), and the two together form
tiie Gironde. The tra(;t between the Dordogne and the Garonne is
known as E)itie-dei(.i- Mei:<. — 22a' ■> M. .\-nibai-i<.
Joining the line from Paris to Bordeaux (p. 12) we pass Lor-
iiKjtit and cross the Garonne by the bridge mentioned on p. 12, ob-
taining a tine view on the right of Bordeaux and its harbour.
2o(j M. Bovdeiiu.r \Gare Sf. Jean), see p. 41.
b. Via Challans and La Rochelle.
236 M. l!\iiAv.\Y in IOS/4-II hrs. (fares same as via Clisson). The trains
start fruui the Gave d' Orleans, but stop also at the Gare de VEtat. Arrival
at tlie Gare St. Jean, p. 41.
Santex. see Baedekei'-< Sorthein Fiance. — The train crosses
several arms of the Loire. ?)^!^ M. Pont -Rousseau; 4*/2 M. Les
Lande.i; 5', .> ^I- HoHfiueniih; 9 M. Bouaye. To the left is the Lac
de Grand-Lieu, in form almost oval, 5'/2 M. long by 'd*/^M. wide,
but very shallow, in the midst of meadows wiiich it overtlows in
winter. — 13 M. Fort-St. Fere.
.\t (16^/4 M.) Ste. Fazanne the line to Paimba-uf and Pornic
ili verges on the right isee Baedeker'.'* Sortheru France). 25V2 M.
Machecoxl. Near (30 .M.) Buis-de-Ce'm' we enter the Vendue. —
33'/., M. La Garnache.
37 AI. Challann, a small commercial town.
.V UiLiGBNCE plies li-oni Challans t(i (25 M.) Xuiruimitic rs (0I/3 tV.I,
passing (II JI.) Beauvoir-sur-Mer. — Tlie Hat and sandy Island ofNoir-
moutiers, o'/s ^f- fruni Heauvoir, is separated from the mainland by a
narrow channel ('2 M.) wliich is dry at l(jvv tide. The greater part of its
siirlace is beluw the level of high tides and requires to be protected by
dylics , but tlierc are .some picturesque rocks at its N. end. It is 11 )I.
long and 4 31. wide at the widest part, and contains some leriile ground
and several salt-niarslifs. In 1793-94 the possession of the island wa*
vigorously disputed by the V'endeans and tlie Republicans , and it was
here that U'EHxie, the commander-in-chief of the former, was taken
and shot.
NnirmouUers (Hi'itel du Lion-d'Or), the chief town of the island, has
•iltK) inhab. and a small fortress. About I1/4 M. to the N.E. is the sea-
30 /. llvvfe 5. SOLOGNE. From Orleans
bathing resort of La Chaise, near which are woods of pines and evergreen
oaks. La Chaise is only 10 51. distant from Pornic (see Baedeker's Nor-
thern France), which lies opposite it, on the mainland.
41 M. SoiiUans; 44'/., M. Commequlers, a large village with a
castle, a menhir, and two dolmens.
A branch-railway runs hence to (8 >!.)»?<. Gilles-sur-Vie, a small seaport
and bathing-place. Opposite is Croix-de-Vie, a small fishing-port.
The lie d'Yeu or l)ieu, a small fortified island, 6 M. long and 21/2 M.
broad, with 3132 inhab., lies 18 M. from the mainland and is generally
approached from St. G-illes. The coast is very rocky in the W., but easily
accessible on the E. where lies the harbour of Port Joinville. The chief
town is »S<. Sauveiir, in the centre <if the island.
Our line now crosses the Vie. 47 M. iS7. Maixent-sur-Vie;
51 M. Coex ; 58 M. Aizenay, a town with 4000 inhabitants. Beyond
(63 M.) La Oene'fouzewQ join the line from Nantes via Clissoii (p. 24),
and that from Tours to Les Sables-d'Olonne (R. 2).
69 M. La Roche-sur-Yon (p. 16). Hence to (136 M.) Bordeaux,
see p. 24.
5. From Orleans ; Paris) to Bordeaux via Perigueux.
313 M. Kaii.way in I43/4-I9I/.J hrs. (fares 61 fr. 40, 46 fr. 10, 33 fr.
75 c). — From Orleans to IJordeaux via Tours, 284 M. , railwav in 7l,/.i-
121/2 hrs. (fares 56 fr. 35, 42 fr. 30, 31 fr. 5 c.)
I. From Orleans to Limoges.
1731/2 M. Railway in 51/2-93/4 hrs. (fares 34 fr. 45, 25 fr. 85, 18 fr. 95 c).
Orleans, see Baedeker's Northerii France. — Beyond (11/4 M.)
Les Aubrais we quit the Paris and Bordeaux line, skirt the N. side
of Orleans, and cross the Loire (good view of the town to the right).
Beyond (7 M.) St. Cyr-en-Vai we enter the sterile, marshy, and
unhealthy plateau of the Sologne.
The Sologne, which occupies an area of about 20(X) sq. M., was for-
lutrly a flourishing and well -peopled district; its ruin dates from the
lli-liiiious Wars and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, which caused
numerous Protestant families to leave it. Government has lately done
much to render it healthy and to restore its ancient prosperity, especially
by the planting of pines on an extensive scale and by the construction
ni' two canals. One of these, that of the Sauldre, 27 M. in length, carries
to La JIotte-Reuvron (see below) the calcareous elements that the soil of
the Sologne lacks, while the still unfinished Canal de la Sologne (92 M. long,
and 33 ft. _wide) is intended to open a connection between 'Briare and
Tours, and so to form an outlet for tlie products of the country, besides
supplying the deficiency of the Canal du Berry (see below). The number
of ponds in the Sologne is reckoned at 1200. The total number of inhab.
does not reach 100,000, less than 50 per sq. M.
13'/2 ^- I-'"^ Ferfe'-St. Anhin, on the right, a very ancient town
of 3043 inhab., with a church of the 12th cent, and a chateau of the
17th century. — 19 M. Votizon. — 23V2 M. La Motfe-Beuvron . on
the Benrron and the Canal de la Sauldre (see above), possesses a
chateau of the 16- 17th cent., which has been converted into an
agricultural station. Branch-line to Blois. see Bcedekers Northern
Fravre. — Beyond (27V2M.) Nouan-le-FnzeHerw^ cros^the Orande-
to Bordeaux. CHATEAUROIX. I. Route 5. Ill
Sanldre. — 35 M. .^albrh. a commercial and industrial town con-
taining a church with fine stained glass. Be>ond (421/, M.) Theillay.
the train passes through a tunnel 1345 yds. long, with 34 air-shafts,
and traverses the Forest of Vierzon.
49 M. Vierzon {Bufi'ef) . an industrial town of 10.314 inhab.,
situated on the Cher and the Canal du Berry.
From Vikiizon to Tours, 70 M.. railway in 2i/-j-3J/i hrs. (fares 13 fr. 40,
10 fr. 5. 7 fr. 30 c). This line (for details^ see Baedeker's Northern France)
descends the vallev of the Cher. Best views to the left. — 10 M. Mennetou-
stir-Clier, with ramparts of the 13th century. — From (lol/o M.) Ville-
franche-aiir-Cher a branch -line runs to Blois, passing (5 M.) Jiomoraniin,
a town of 7600 inhabitants. — 35 31. fit. Aignan, a little town. IV4 M. tu
the S., with a chateau of the 13-16th centuries. — 4(i M. Monirichard, a small
town, with a line church of the 13th century. Keyond it. to the left, is
the Chateau I'f Chenonceaux.
50 M. Chenonceaux (Hotel du Bon - Laboureui-) , a village with a cele-
brated •Chate.vv, in the Gothic and Renaissance styles, built on piles in
the bed of the Cher. To reach the latter, we pass through the village
which is 1/^ M. from the station (omnibus). Beyond the first court we
reach a Keej) of the loth cent. , where we should apply for admission.
The chief facade, dating from the beginning of the I6th cent., is elabo-
rately and tastefully ornamented. The most interesting parts of the
interior are the Dining Hall and the Chapel., on the ground -floor, and
the Manager's Office and the Kitchen in two large piers of the bridge.
A less ancient Bridge supports a building of two stories and very sin-
gular appearance erected by Diana of Poitiers at a somewhat later date.
The second story is to be fitted up as a picture gallery.
661/3 M. St. Pierre-des-Corps, where we join the Orle'ans line. — 70 M.
Tows (see Baedeker's Northern France).
We now leave the Bourges line (R. 32) oa the left and cross the
Cher and then the Arnon. 58V2 '^I- Chery. Among the numerous
chateaux seen on the right the most striking is that of La Ferfr-
Renilly (17th cent.), beyond (61 M.) Reuilly. The line now follows
the valley of the The'ols to (67 M.) Sfe. IJznigne.
71 M. Issoudun (Hotel de France), a town of 15,231 inhab.,
situated on a declivity to the left, and surrounded by vineyards. The
town sustained several sieges by the English in the Middle Ages and
one by the army of the Fronde in 1651, which have left very few of
its houses standing. In the garden of the Hotel de Ville is the Tovr
Blanche, a keep of the beginning of the 12th cent., 88ft. high.
Notre- Dame-dif-Sacre-Coeur . a little farther on, is a modern and
tasteless Gothic building (closed).
79 M. Neitry-raiUoiix. Before reaching Cliateauroux, we cros.s
the Indre. To the right are the fine towers of D^ols (p. 32) and
Chateauroux.
88 M. Chiteauroux (Hotel de France . Rue Victor-Hugo : Hotfl
!<fe. Catherine. Place du Marche). the chief town of the department of
the Indre. with 22,860 inhab., is situated on the right bank of the
Indre. It is now a manufacturing town of some importance and
has been much improved in recent years. Its chief products are
woollen stuffs and coarse cloth.
The *Cai"RCH or St. .\ndre\v. a few minutes walk to the right
;32 /. Uoute 0. DEOLS. From Orleans
ol' tlie btatioii, is a line leproiluction of loth cent. Gothic, built ii.
1864-75 from the designs; of Daiiveigne. The W. front is flanked
by two towers with stone spires. The aisles have galleries above
them and side- chapels opening ofl' them. The interior contains
somefinestained glass by Lobiii of Tours and others; alarge wrought-
iron chandelier by Larcheveque. of .Mehun, near liourges; and a stone
organ-loft.
A little farther on, to the right, is the Place Lafayette (see below)
and, to the left, the Place Gambetta with the Theatre. The Rue Victor-
Hugo, behind tliis building, leads to the Place du Marche and the
Hotel de Ville . tlie latter containing a small Museum, open to
tlie public on Sun. from 1 to 4, and to strangers on other days also..
The entrance is on the other side.
KooM I. Engravings, drawings, etc. — KimM 11. To tlie liglit: 46.
Moleiiaer, Tlie lortune-tellei'; 35. Van Ooytii^ Sea-piece: 13. Le Bonnjuignon,
Cavalry -charge; 49. i'an der I'oel , Oontlagration :, 8. ' i'elvet' Brueghel,.
Holy Family; 26. Franck the Elder. Scenes from the story of Esther; 10.
Bys, Sea-shore; 88. Unknown Master, Virgin, on a gold ground; 70. Flemish^
.School, Sea-piece; 39. LargUUere , Portrait: 6. Botitf . Procession: 80. Un-
knoiin Artist, Descent from the Cross; 9. ^Hell-fire' Bruegel, Temptation
of St. Anthony. — Room III. To the left: 85. Cnkuown Master, Esther.
At the end of the room is a cast of the 2'omb of St. Ludre (original af
Deols, see below). A glass-case contains souvenirs of Napoleon I. and
his friend General Bertrand . a native of Chateaiirou.\. In another glass-
case in the centre are some line enamels and medals.
Notbe-Dame, in the street that descends in front of the Hotel
de Ville. is another handsome modern church in the Komanesque
style, with a dome surmounted by a gilt figure of the Virgin, a
tower over the W. front, and flue stained-glass windows.
Near this point is the Chate.\u Raoul (Chateauroux), an ediflce-
of the 14 -15th cent., now used as the Prefecture. It occupies the
site of an earlier castle whicli gave its name to the town. To see
it properly we must descend to the bank of the Indre^ by the Rue
de la Manufacture, passing in front of Notre-Dame.
The Rue Grande, beyond the Hotel de Ville, leatls to St. Martial,
an old church of little interest, and terminates at the other eiul of"
the Place Lafayette. The latter is ad.jolned by the Place Ste. Helene,.
which is embellished with :i Statue uf tiemral Bertrand (ITTS---
1844), in bronze, by Rude.
Diols , ^/4 31. from Chateaiirou.\ , readied liy a pleasant mad begin
ning at the Place Lafayette, possesses tlie ruins of a once notorious
abbey, consisting of the fine Tower of the interesting Komanesi|ue church
an<I some fragments of sculpture (to the right on entering the village).
Farther on. to the left, is a Gateicay of tlie 15tli cent., with two round
towers. Beyond this stands the Church of St. Steplien, the crypt of which,
to the riglit of the choir, contains the Tomb of St. Ludre, with bas-reliefs
dating from the earliest centuries of the Christian era (copy in the Cha-
teaurou.x Museum, see above). The church also possesses some paintings,
which, though of no intrinsic value, are interesting as giving views of
the ancient abbey.
Fhom Chateacrou.x to Tours, 73 M. , railway in 3l/.j-4hrs. (fare.s
14 Ir.. II fr. 65, 7 fr. 70 c.). — This line follows the valley of the Indre. —
16 M. Ilii-.aiirais, which \a Io be connected by another line witli Le Blanc
I(j Bordeaux. LA CHATKE. 7. lioiUe 5. 33
7). — 21 31. I'alliiau-St. Oenou. The i'ornier contains a ruined diateau,
11 in tlie distance to tlic riglit; the latter, an interesting Abbey Church
111' the 11th century. Near (26 M.) Clion , to the right, is the Chateau tie
Vlle-Saiarij. The Indre is then crossed several times. — 31 M. Chatillon-
sur-Iiiilrt, whicli has also a ruined castle, with a keep of the 12th cen-
tury. As we approach Loches we liave a fine view, to the left, of its
keei> and chateau. To the right is the steeple of Beaulieu (see below).
44 M. Loches (llvtel de la Promenade)^ a town with 5141 inhab. , pic-
turesquely situated on the left bank of the Indre, possesses a celebrated
castle, the ancestral home of the Plantagenets. At the entrance to the
town rises the Tower of St. Antoiite, a fine remnant of a 16th cent,
church. Following the Kue de la Grenouillere in a straight direction,
we see on the left the Porte Picoi/.i., an erection of the 15th cent., through
which we pass to the Hotel de Ville, a pleasing building in the Renais-
sance style. Farther on, to the right, is the Eue du Chateau, containing
some interesting houses of the Renaissance period.
The castle, which had a fortified enceinte of about IV4 M. in extent,
resembles a little town. The first street on the left leads to the collegiate
*Chukch of St. Ours, a very interesting relic of the 12th century. The
nave consists of two square divisions, divided by a plain Gothic arch,
and each surmounted by a lofty octagonal cupola without windows. The
Romanesque W. doorway is richly moulded and sculptured , and under
the porch in front of it is a holy-water basin made out of an old altar,
also adorned with sculpture.*. Adjoining the church is the Royal Palace,
a building of the 15-16tli cent., with a tine facade, now the Sous-Pre'fec-
tiire. In one of the towers of the facade is the Monument of Agnes Sorel
(A. 1450), mistress of Charles VII., formerly in the church, and in another
part of the palace is the pretty Oratory of Anne of Bretugne (d. 1514),
wife of Charles VIII. and of Louis XII. — The ancient *Keep or Donjon,
at the other end of the enceinte , is the most interesting part of the
upper town. To the left, on entering, is the Keep proper, a rectangular
tower of the 12th cent., 82 ft. long, 46 ft. wide, and 130 ft. high, of which
the walls alone remain. To the right of the keep is the Martelet, in one
of the dungeons in which Lodovieo Sforza, Duke of Milan (d. 1510), was
imprisoned for nine years by Louis XII.; it contains some inscriptions
and his portrait done by himself. Still more to the right is the Round
iir New Tower, which contained the famous iron cages in which Louis XI.
confined Cardinal de la lialue, the inventor, the historian Philip de Com-
ines, etc. — In the street below, by the side of the Indre, near the tower
of St. Antoine, stands the Porte des Cordeliers, of the 15th century. On
the opposite bank of the river is Beaulieu, with its fine Romanesque
abbey-church.
561/2 M. Cormery, with a fine spire. — 63 M. Montbazon, dominated
hy the huge keep of a castle which dates back to the 11th century. On
the top is a modern statue of the Virgin. — 691/2 BI. Joui-Ves- Totirs
(p. 12). — 73 M. Tours (see Baedeker's Northern France).
From Chateaurou.x to MoNTLUfON, 65 M., railway in 31/4-4 Iirs. (fares
13 fr., 9 fr. 65, 7 fr. 5 c.). — Ascending the valley of the Indre we reach
(8 M.) Ardenies. a little village to the right, with a partly Romanesque
church. — 15 M. Mers, then, JV^o/ifln^ with a chateau formerly inhabited by
George Sand (see below).
22 M. La Chatre ('^ Hotel St. Germain or Descrosses ^ Rue Nationale), a
commercial and industrial town with 5215 inhab., on the left bank of the
Indre. In a square 1/2 I*'- from the station is a fine marble Statue of
George Sand, the famous authoress (Raroness Dudevant, 1804-76), by
A. Millet. Proceeding thence to the left, we reach the Church, whicli
contains some fine modern glass and a painting by Helm. To the left,
bevond the church, is a square Tower, a relic of the chateau of La
("hatre, and farther on lies the fine Promenade de VAbbaye, overlooking
the valley.
Beyond La Chatre, on the right, we pass the Ch&teau de la Motte-
Feuilly , which dates from the 12th century. We then quit the valley
Raedeker. Southern France. 3
34 I. Route 5. ARGENTON. From Orleans
and asceud towards a plateau where chestnuts are extensively grown. —
31 M. Champillet -Ureters , a large station where a new branch -line to
(231/2 M.) Lavaud-Franche (p. 225), via (20 M.) Boussac , diverges on the
right. — 351/2 M. Chdteaumeillant, a town with 3866 inhab., with an inter-
esting chateau and church, situated in a finely wooded district. Beyond
(42 M.) Culan , (0 the left, is a small lake. The train then crosses two
viaducts, the second of which is very high. — 481/2 M. St. Disiri, with
a noteworthy Romanesque church (to the left); 51 1/2 M. Cour^ais. Ex-
tensive view to the left. Farther on, in tlie valley of the Cher, we join
first the Bourges, then the Gue'ret line. — 65 M. 3fontlugon, see p. 225.
95V2 M. Litont , in the Brenne, a district in parts marshy and
sterile. Beyond (99 M.) Lofhiers the train passes through some
cuttings and a tunnel ^/^ M. long and crosses a viaduct . which
affords a striking view of the valley of the Bouzanne, which we
soon cross, and of the magnificent 15th cent, chateau of (104 M.)
Chabenet.
IO7V2M. Argenton (Bnffet; Hotel de la Promenade) , a little
town on the Creiise, the Argentomagits of the Romans. Of its castle,
destroyed after the war of the Fronde, only a few scanty remains
are now extant. — Branch-line to Le Blanc and (76 M.) Poitiers
see p. 7.
About 11/4 M. to the N. is St. Marcel, a small a town of 2747 inhab..
formerly walled, with an interesting church of the Transition period. —
In the pretty Valley of the Bouzanne, which is traversed by the road from
Argenton to Chateauroux via St. Marcel, about 4 M. from the latter town,
are several castles, some in ruins, but others still inhabited. About 1/2 M.
below the road, on the right bank, is the Castle of Rocherolles. At the
same distance above the road, also on the right bank, are the ruins of
Prunget ; II/4 M. farther on, on the left bank, are those of Mazieres, on the
site of a Celtic -Roman town. Still farther on, on the right bank, are
the castles of Broutay (2 M.) and Plessis (i/o M.).
The Valley of the Creuse, above Argenton, also displays some fine scener\
The village of Gargilesse, 71/2 M. from Argenton, possesses a Transition
church, with a fine crypt, wall-paintings of the 13th cent. , and a curious
old tomb. Adjacent is a ruined castle. About 2 M. to the W., on the
left bank of the Creuse, are the remains of the castle oi La Prune-au-Pot.
Near (llS'/aM.) Ce'lon, to the right we see an old castle with
machicolated towers. — 120 M. Egnzon.
About 21/2 M. to the N., on a steep hill, on the right bank of the
Creuse. are the interesting ruins of the castle of CMteaubrun, which date
in part from tlie 13th century. The keep commands a fine view.
About 4 M. to the S. of Eguzon, on a rugged and sheer promontory,
at the eonlluence of the Sidelle and the Creuse, stands the ruined castle
of Crozant (adm. , 50 c.), a mediwval fortress the history of which is
almost unknown. The keep is an utter ruin, but there still remain
several massive towers, with interesting features.
From (125 M.) St. Se'bastien . a branch-line runs to (28'/2 M.)
Gueret (p. 226). — 129 M. Forgevieille.
136*/2 M- ^a. Souterraine, a town with 4929 inhab., still possess-
ing a fortifleil gate of the i6th cent, and a very interesting Roman-
esque and Gothic church. In the cemetery is a Lanterne des Marts,
a kind of tower in which a lamp was formerly kept burning through
tlie night.
We next pass through a tunnel, ^3 M. long, piercing the granite
■■1 4^e-
4^ p, ^^
.reil^a^T*
CJemtrferr. ^
Place d05?'OTS^?*'""« «.>^-V\- J' ,<''^ * '■ w.^
5 •»>-**
l> Carnat'%
Camat- >,
-^ rfcVtlle IIAU-Uo I"'' flu
Ja.rdinsfe 'Si
L I M O G g S
1:16,600
3letres
jPrrifeu tng /Tn ulOTise
D
\\'a^Kr<.T)cbes,Leipii)
to Buideaitx. LIMOGES. /. lioute 5. 30
T<K-k which forms thegrouiidwork of the plain extending from Argen-
ton to Thivicrs (p. 38), about 40 M. beyond Limoges.
142 M. Fromental. with a chateau. Farther on our line is joined
on the riglit by that from Poitiers (p. 7) and crosses a viaduct,
615 ft. long and 174 ft. high, with two tiers of arches. Fine view of
the valley of the (iartempe. — 149 M. Bergac. The railway skirts
(on the right) the wooded hills of Leg Echelles i'2250 ft.) and threads
a tunnel piercing the central chain of the Limousin.
153 M. St. Sulpice-Lauriere (Buffet), a picturesque village sur-
rounded with mountains. Va M. from the station. From St. Sulpice
to Poitiers, see p. 7 : to Gueret. Montlu^on, etc., see R. 34 A.
Our line next passes through a tunnel, ''jM. long, into the
valley of the Vienne. 157 M. La Jonchere. 162 M. Ambazac, v.it]\
3608 inhab. and a church . in the Romanesque and Gothic styles,
containing a beautiful Shrine of St. Etlenne de Muret in gilt and
enamelled copper (12th cent.) and a dalmatic (deacon's garment)
given by the Empress Matilda, wife of Henry V. of Germany (d.
1125). — The train now passes through two tunnels and reaches
(166 M.) Leg Bnrdys-St. Priest . beyond which it crosses a viaduct
111 ft. high. — 172 M. Puy-Imbert, the junction of lines to Angou-
leme (p. 11) and to Usscl - Clermont - Ferrand (p. 38). — 173 M.
Linioqeg (Buffet).
Limoges. — Railway Stations, Gare d' OrUans or des BinedicHns (PI. 1),
2,3), the central station; Gare de Monljovis or de V Etat (Pl.A, 2j, for the
lines to Augouleme and Clermont-Ferrand, eommunicating with the former,
as stated above.
Hotels. •Grand-Hotel de la Paix (PI. a; C,4). Place .Tourdan, It. from
2,A. I2-V4, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; Richelieu (PI. b ; A, 4) , Place d'Aine ;
UouLE d'0r(P1. c; A,3j, Boulevard de la Poste-aux-Cbevaux , these two
less conveniently situated, and at some distance from the cathedral; des
PosTES ET Teleoraphes (PI. d; B, 3), Boulevard de la Pyramide 5; Grand
Hot, Veyriras (PI. e ; A, 3), Rue Montmailler 29-33, near the Gare de
Montj'>vis, well spoken of, R. Si A. 2, omn. l/o (r.
Cafes. De la Paix and de la Boule d'Or, adjoining the hotels of those
name.s.
Cab fnr 1-2 pers., per drive t fr. , per br. li/o fr. : for 3-4 pers. II/2
or 2 fr. : at night I1/4- 2, or 21/2 fr. — Tramways traverse the Boulevards.
Post and Telegraph Office (Pl.B. 3), Boulevard de la Pyramide 7.
American Consular Agent : Afr. Walter T. Griffen.
LiiniHieg, the ancient capital of the Limousin, now the chief
town of the department of the Haute Vienne, the headquarters
of the 4th Army Corps, and the seat of a bishopric, rises in the
form of an amphitheatre from the right bank of the Vienne. Pop.
68,477. Although the town has been greatly improved since its for
tiflcations were demolished in the last century, especially of late years,
during which its population has more than doubled , the older
quarters still contain numerous narrow, crowded, and tortuous
streets, impracticable for carriages and unfavourable to health.
Many old timber-built houses still exist.
At the time of the Roman conquest this town was the capital of
3*
36 /. noute 5. LIMOGES. Fiom Orleans
tlie Lemovices^ a powerful Gallic tribe, able to send 10,000 men to the
succour of Alesia. After its incorporation with the Roman empire it had a
senate and abounded in fine buildings, such as temples, theatres, palaces,
public batlis, etc., of which, however, scarcely any trace remains. St. Jlar-
tial, the patron-saint of the Limousin, first preached the Gospel here.
The town preserved a part of its importance down to the Middle Ages,
but unfortunately it formed two distinct towns, often at rivalry with each
other, and it sulTered much during the English wars, especially in 1.370,
when it was taken and sacked. The Religious Wars, plague, and famine
desolated it afresh in the 16th cent., and in 1630-31 it again sull'ered from
a terrible visitation of tlie plague. Under the administration of Turgot
(d. 1781) it began to revive, but a terrible fire consumed nearly 200 of
its houses in 1790. Of the numerous other fires from which it has suft'ered
the most disastrous was that of 1864.
Limoges is well known as the birthplace of the greatest master.s in
the art of enamelling, which seems to have flourished here as early as
the 12th cent, and reached its culminating period in the second half of
the 16th century. The most famous masters were Nardon Penicaiid,
Leonard Limoiisin, Jean and Pierre Conrtays, and Pierre Reymond. At the
present day the porcelain of Limoges is highly prized, and the kaolin,
or china-clay, found in the neighbourhood is exported to America and
other countries. Admission is easily obtained to one of the numerous
porcelain manufactories in the town , which employ about 5000 workmen
and produce about 20 million pieces a year. Limoges has also thread
and textile manufactories, large shoe and saliot-making workshops, etc.
The Gare cles B^ii^dictins or d'Orl^ans (Pi. D, 2, 3) is in the
lower part of the town, near the Place Jourdan and the cathedral.
On the right, above it, is the Cliamp-de-JuHlet (PI. C, 2, 3), a large
.square, to the N. and W. of wliiidi lies an extensive modern quarter.
The Place Jourdan (PI. 0,3,4) is adorned with a bronze Sfitfiie
of Marshal Jourdan, A native of Limoges (1762-1838), by Elias
Robert. The first street to the left and its rontinuation lead hence
to the —
*Cathei>eal of St. Etienne (PI. L),4), the most important and
interesting building in the district, only recently completed. It
occupies the site of a Romanesque church, of which the crypt (see
below) still exists. Tlie foundation dates from 1273; the choir was
finished in 1327: the S. portal a little later; the N. portal and two
bays of the nave in the latter half of the loth century. The remain-
der of the building is partly of the ir)th cent, and partly modern.
To the left of the main portal, recently completed, is an octagonal
Spire (200 ft.) rising in three stages from a square and massive
lower story. It is partly Romanesque and partly Gothic in style
and is surmounted witli turrets. The A'. Kntrnnre is very rich
in ornamentation, but has no statues.
The Inteiuor presents a very imposing appearance, lieneath the organ
is a magnificent Rood Lofl, executed in 1533 and placed here in 1789.
Its ornamentation, whicli is of the utmost delicacy, includes, curiously
enough, six bas-reliefs representing the Labours of Hercules. Some of
the Stained - Glass Wiiuloios date from the 14th cent., but have been
restored in the 16th cent, and again more recently. In the choir are
the interesting, though somewhat dilapidated. Tombs of three bishops;
to the right is the tomb of Raynaud de la I'orte (d. 1325); to the left
those of Hernard Rrun (d. 1349), and .lean de Lanjeac (d. 1541). The
last lias lost its bronze statue, but retains fourteen bas-reliefs represent-
ing the visions of the Apocalypse. — Tlie Cri/jH , under the choir, eon-
to Bordeaux. LIMOGES. /. lioitfe 5. 37
tains Frescoes of the 11th cent, and others less ancient. — In tlie Sacristy
are some magnificent Enamels by Noel Laudin.
The streets to the W. of the cathedral lead to the *Hdtel. fie
Ville (PLC, 5), a flue structure in the Ueuaissaiice style, built in
1878-1881 by Alfons Leclerc. The Museum of Painting and
Sculpture installed here is not very important though it contains
some interesting antiquities.
The Boulevard Gambetta, which ascends hence to the W., marks
the limits of the aiuient town. We regain the inner town by one
of the streets opposite the Hotel de Ville.
The church of .S^ Michel (PI. B, 4), the spire of which, surmounted
by a ball of disproportionate size, the visitor will have noticed on
arriving, is of the 14-15tli cent., with nave and aisles of equal
height and width. It contains some stained-glass windows and
modern paintings.
To the W. of this church in the Place d'Aine (PI. A, 4) with
the Palais de Justice. This building and the Place d'Orsay. behind
it. occupy the site of the Roman amphitheatre.
Adjacent, to theN., lies the extensive Place duChamp-de-Foire.
on the other side of wliich stands an old hospice, containing pro-
visionally the Mus6e C6ramique (PI. A, 3), one of the chief objects of
interest in Limoges, now belonging to the State. It is open to the
public on Sun. and Thurs. from noon till 4 or 5 o'clock , and to
strangers on other days also. It occupies five rooms and consists
mainly of a collection of porcelain and modern fayence, in which the
ware of Limoges itself is represented to great advantage. Among
the superb and valuable specimens is a service of Limoges porce-
lain, which is said to have cost the donor 28.000 L The third room
contains old Limoges biscuit-ware and enamels. In the middle of
the fourth room is a glass case containing old Limoges *Enamels
(Ecce Homo, Crucifix, Adam and Eve, St. Martial), a crosier, a
Byzantine cross, glazed vvai-e, ancient terracottas, etc. The fifth room
is devoted to private collections of pottery that have been bequeathed
to the museum. — A special building is to be erected for the museum.
The Rue Turgot. to the E. of the Place du Champ-de-Foire, leads
back to the Place Jourdan, passing near the Place de la liepubliquc
(Pl.B. C, 3,4). on the S. side of which stands the Theatre (PI. B,4).
The Church of St. Peter {St. Pierre ; PI. C, 4), in the Rue Porte
Tourny, to the S. of the Place de la R^publique, dating chiefly from
the 13th cent., is of irregular shape, with nave and double aisles
all of the same height. At the end it terminates in a flat wall. The
interior contains at the E. end a fine stained-glass window of the
16th cent, by Penicaud , representing the Death atid Coronation
«f the Virgin (to the right) , and some good modern windows by
Oudinot.
To the S. of this church . in the Rue du College, is the Lyce'e
38 7. Route 5. THIVIERS. From Orleans
(PI. C, 4), dating substantially from the ITth and 18th centuries. Tlle^
chapel contains an Assumption ascribed to Rubens.
An interesting excursion may be made from Limoges to the Castle
cif Chalusset and to Solignac (earr. there and back about 15 fr. ; railway
in progress). The road to (91/4^) the castle leads via (6M.) Le Vigen, before
reaching which we see the ruins in the distance. The Castle of Chalusset,
the ancient re.sidence of the Viscounts of Limoges, was built in the 12th
and 13th cent. , but was dismantled in 1593 during the Religious Wars.
Its triple walls were about 65 ft. in height. Two donjon towers and other
parts of the stronghold are still standing. — To reach Solignac we return
to Le Vigen and proceed thence to the W. for 2/3 31. The small town of
•Solignac was formerly the seat of a celebrated Benedictine abbey, founded
in the 7th cent., rebuilt in the 18th, and now transformed into a porcelain
manufactory. The interesting *Church of the 12th cent, has a dome-vaulted
nave, and fine 15th cent, stalls.
From Limoges to Angouleme , see p. 11; to Le Dorat and Poitiers,
see p. 7; to Piriguetix, see below; to Toulouse, see K. 12.
From Limoges to Ussel f Clermont-Ferrand), 71 M., railway in 33/4-'ihrs.
(fares 13 fr. 55, 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 45 c). — The train starts from the Gare de
Montjovis (p. 35) and ascends the valley of the Viemie. 3'V4 M. Puy-lmbert
(p. 36). 151/2 M. at. Leonard (Boule d'Or), an old industrial town of 6038 inhab.,
was the birthplace of Gay-Lussac, the celebrated e.xperimental philosopher
(1778-18.50). It has a Romanesque church of the 11 -12th centuries. —
32 M. Kymoutiers (Hot. Pinton), a busy little town on the Vienne. About
3 M. to the S. W. of (45 V2 M.) Viam is the Saut de la Virole , a very fine
cascade formed by the V^zkre. — The railway now crosses the Vezere, and
attains its highest level (3015 ft.). — At (63 M.) Meymac we join the line
from Tulle to Clermont-Ferrand. 71 M. Ussel, see p. 246.
II. From Limoges to Bordeaux vi4 P6rigueux.
Railway to Pn-igneux, 611/:; IL In 2-2:V4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 30, 9 fr. 15,
6 fr. 70 c.); from Perigueu.x to Bordeaux, 79 W. in 3-5 lirs. (fares 15 fr.
70, 11 fr. 80, 8 fr. 55 c).
The line passes under the town by a tunnel 1115 yds. in lengtli.
7 M. Beynac ; 12V2 M. Xc,ro», a place of 3130 inhab., with a church
of the r2th and 15th and a chateau of the 16th century. Line to
Toulouse, see R. 12. — 17Va ^^- Lafarge. Fine view to the left.
From (23V2 M.) Bussiere-Galant a branch-line diverges to Saillat
(p. 11). Beyond (30 M.) La CoquiUe we traverse moorland and
pass through a short tunnel.
38V2 M. Thiviers (Hotel Lambert), a small and prettily situated
commercial town (pop. 3625) , witli a Romanesque church of the,
12th cent, and the tine Chateau de Vurocour , in the lienaissancii^
style.
A branch-line is being constructed from Thiviers to (49 M.) Hrive,
in continuation of that from Angouleme via Nontron (p. lO). This line
will pass (I2V2 M. ; diligence from Thiviers) Krcideuil, with a chateau of
the Talleyrand-Perigord family (13-16th cent.), now more or less in ruins.
Ilautefort, 8 M. farther on, has also a chateau of the 16-17th centuries. —
Brive, see p. 92.
After passing through another tunnel we reacli (45 M.) Nt'grondes
and (51 V2 M.) Agonar , the latter witli a Jxomanesqtie-Byzantiiie
cliurch. — 56 M. Chatenu-V Ereque, so named from its chateau, a
building of the 14th cent., which was once the residence of the
bishops of Perigueux.
i'-^J-'
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to Bordeaux. PERIGUEUX. /. Route 5. 39
Brasch-Lise (131/.) M. in l:"^ lir.) to Brant inie (Hijttl Chabrol) , a town of
2381 inhab., prettily situated on the Droiine, 10 JI. to the N. It possesses
the interesting remains of an old Benedictine abbey, dating from the
days of Charlemagne. The Romanesque Tower, standing on a sheer rock
honeycombed with caverns, is one of tne oldest in France. The Church
is partly Romanesque and partly Gothic. Adjoining are portions of the
15th cent. Cloister. The abbey itself was rebuilt in the 18th century. —
The line goes on to (33 M.) St. Pardoux.
The train now crosses the Beauronne several times describes
a wide curve to the left, and enters the valley of the Isle. The line
to Bordeaux runs to the right, crossing the Isle.
61'/., M. P6rigueux. — Hotels. Hotel db Fraijce (PI. a:D, 3), Place
Francheville. expensive: Hotel de L'U>iiVEKs (Pl.b; D, 3), Rue de Bor-
deaux, R. ll/o, dej. 21/2 fr. -, Hotel i)U Perigord (PI. e-,E, 1), Place du
Palais-de-Justfee; Hotel du Commerce, Place du Quatre- Septembre (PI.
D.2). — -^Buffet. — Cafes in the Place Bugeaud and Cours Michel -Mon-
taigne. — Perigueux is noted for its pate's of partridge and truffles
CPerigord pies').
Perigueux. the capital of the department of the Dordogne. is
a town with 29,611 inhab.. conspicuously situated on the right bank
of the Isle. It is the ancient \'e.mna, the capital of the Petrocorii,
or rather it has taken the place of that town , which was situated
farther to the S. . to the left of the station. To the right , on the
high ground , is the modern town , Le Puy St. Fruut , and below
lies the Cite', or media;val town. Under the Romans Vesuna en-
joyed considerable prosperity, and it became the capital of the
cou'itship of Pe'tigord in the time of Charlemagne. The English
besieged it three times but did not take it till 1356. It was after-
wards sacked by the Huguenots, who occupied it from 1575 to 1581.
Turning to the right at the station and following the Rue Papin,
and then following to the left the Rue des Mobiles-de-Coulmiers
and the Rue de Bordeaux, we reach the Place Bugeaud (Pl.B.I),
which is adorned with a bronze statue of Marshal Bugeaud (1794-
1849), a native of Perigord, by Dumont. A few paces to the right
is the Place Francheville (p. 40); to the left, the Cours Michel-
Montaigne (p. 40). The Rue Taillefer leads in a straight direction
to the old Place Marcillac (PI. E.2) and (left) to the ~
*Cathkur.vl ok St. Fboxt (PI. F, 2), an old abbey-church dedi-
cated to the patron -saint of P(5rigord. The entrance is on the N.
side. This church was formerly one of the most remarkable in
France, but the restoration, or rather reconstruction, which has been
going on since 1865 and is now nearly completed, has seriously
disfigured it and deprived it of much of its interest. Thoroughly
Byzantine in design, presenting the form of a Greek cross with cu-
polas, but having slightly pointed arches instead of round ones in
the arcades below, it was looked upon as the first church in which
the pointed arch had been systematically introduced. Now, how-
ever, the pointed arches have almost throughout been replaced
by semicircular arches, so that St. Front resembles, still more
than before, St. Mark's at Venice, with which it is contemporary
40 /. linute 5. PERIGUEUX. From Orleans
(984-1047; St. Mark's , 976-1071). It does not, however, rival that
church ill lightness ami richness of ornamentation. The interior
measures 184 ft. both ways, and its five cupolas, resting on pendent-
ives and carved square piers , are about 90 ft. in internal heiglit.
In the S. transept is the monument of Mgr. G. Massonais (d. 1860).
Adjoining the cathedral on the W. are the remains of a basi-
lica of the 6th cent., above which rises a curious *Tower, 197 ft.
liigh, the oldest in Fraiice and said to be the only one extant in tlie
Byzantine style. It dates from the beginning of the 11th cent., but
has undergone some modifications. It is now being thoroughly
restored , not to say reconstructed. It is composed of two square
stories (the first with pilasters, the second with columns), a cir-
cular story surrounded by a colonnade, and, lastly, a kind of dome
covered with inverted scallops.
The Rue St. Front , which leads to the right , passing in front
of the Freemasons' Lodge, a singular modern edifice, ends to the
N. of the cathedral at the Conrs Tourny (PI. K,r. 1) , a fine prome-
nade planted with trees, and containing the Museum, the Prefecture,
and a statue of F^nelon.
The Museum (Pl.F, 1), to the right, is open to the public on
Sun.&Thurs. from 1 to 4 p. m. It chiefly contains Egyptian, Celtic.
Roman, and Frankish antiquities. The Roman works include altars,
bronze statuettes , a glass urn still holding ashes, and numerous
smaller objects. Among the other contents of the museum are
mediaeval sculptures (two fine chimney-pieces) , arms, coins, and
a collection of second-class modern paintings and sculptures.
Farther on , at the end of the Cours Tourny , we obtain a fine
view of the valley of the Isle. To the left rises the Prr'fecficre . a
modern building in the Italian style. At the opposite end of the
Cours is <i hrouze Statue of Fenelon . a native of P^rigord (1651-
1715), by Lanno (1840).
To the left lies the Cours Michel -Montaigne (PI. D, E, 1,2),
whicli extends from this point to the Place Bugeaud (p. 39) and is
the most animated part of the town. It is embellished with statues
of two other illustrious natives of P^rigord : Montaigne, the
essayist (1533-92), also in bronze by Lanno, and General Daumesnil
(1776-1832). in bronze after Rochet.
Returning to the Place Bugeaud, we now descend to the left to
i\ie Place Francheville (Pl.D, E, 3), near which , on the left rises
the Tour Mataguerre (PI. E, 3), a relic of the 15th cent, fortifi-
cations.
The street on the other side of the Place leads to the ancient
Cathedral of St. LY/cniie (PI. D, 4) , in the Cit6. This church is
of almost the same period as St. Front and resembles it in style,
but it has now only two cupolas. In the interior is a large carved
oak reredos, 30 ft. high and 36 ft. wide, executed by a Jesuit in the
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18th cent, and representing the Assumption. The pulpit and X\w
frescoes by M. Brucker also deserve notice.
The street to the right, in front of the church, leads to the N.W.
to the ruins of the Avend (PI. C, 3), a Celtic -Roman amphitheatre
of the 3rd cent. , the only remains of which are a few arches and
fragments of walls, in the middle of a square. The amphitheatre was
about 440 yds. in external, and 290 yds. in internal circumference.
The street running to the S. from the Arena crosses the railway
by a bridge, whence there is a view of the Chdte<iu Baniete (PI.
C, 4), dating from the 10-12th cent., and built on the Roman forti-
fications, of which two towers still remain. The entrance is on
the other side. Beyond this bridge is the Tuiir Vesone (PI. I). 4).
another relic of the Roman period. This is a cylindrical building,
open on one side, which is supposed to have been the relln of a temple.
From Perigueux tn Ageii and Tarhes, see K. 11; to Brife , Tulle, Cler-
mont-Ferrand, etc., see p. 92, and K. 34 B. — Grotte de Miremoni , see p. 87.
From Perigcbu.x to Riberac. 23 M., railwav in 1 1/3-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr.
55, 3 fr. 40, 2 Ir. 50 c). — 12V-2 M. Lisle, 5 M. to "the N. E. of which, in the
valley of the Dronne , is BourdeilUs , whicli has a curious castle of the
14th and 16th cent., with a keep 130 ft. high. — The line then follows
the valley of the Dronne. I41/4 M. Tocane - St. Apre , 3 M. to the N. of
which is Le Grand-Bra$sac . boasting of a Romanesque -Byzantine church
of the 13-1'ith cent, with cupolas and very remarkable sculptures in excellent
preservation. —ISM. Si. M^ard. ~ 23 M. Eibfirac (Hot- de France; du Peri-
gord), a prettily situated commercial town with 4047 inhabitants. This
line is to be prolonged to meet that from Angouleme to Bordeaux at Mont-
miireau (p. 11).
The Bordeaux line now follows the valley of the Isle as far as
its confluence with the Dordogne , crossing the river several
times. Many picturesque castles are seen on the banks. 67S'2 M.
liiizac, in a hilly district. — 72 M. St. .\sfier, with a domed church
of the ll-12th cent., afterwards rebuilt. — 77 M. Nenvic . with a
chateau of the 16th century. From (83 M.) Miissidan a branch-line runs
to (20 M.) Bergerac (p. 12). — 88 M. Beaupoxyet; 93 M. Monfpont.
About 3 M. to the N. of the last is the Carthusian convent of
Vnuclaire, dating from the 14th cent, and lately restored. — 98 M.
Soubie. Beyond (104 M.) St. Me'dard, we join the line from Paris
to Bordeaux. — 108 M. Coufra)', and thence to (139 M.) Bordeau.r.
see p. 11.
6. Bordeaux.
Railway Stations. Bordeaux has four railway stations: (1) Oare de
Paris or de la Bastide (Pl.E, 4, 5), the central station, on the right bank
of the Garonne, facing the town: (2) Gare du Midi et de V Eiat or de St. Jean
(PI. E, 7; buffet), to the S., on the left bank of the Garonne, U/.j JI. from
the centre of the town, communicating with the Gare ile Paris (see p. 2):
(3» Gare du Mhtoc (Pl.D. 1) at the X. end, for the line of that name and
for trains to Lacauau (K. 7): (4) Gare de la Sauve (P1.F,6), on the right
bank, close to the bridge of the Chemin-de- Fer du Midi, for the short
line to La Sauve (p. 52). There are no hotel-omnibuses, but the trains
rre met by railway-omnibuses (p. 43) and cabs (p. 42).
42 /. Route 6.
BORDEAUX.
Tramways.
Hotels. Hotel de France, Rue Esprit-des-Lois 11. close to the Bank
(PI. C,4). well appointed but rather expensive, R. from 3 fr. ; des Princes)
liT DE LA Paix, Cours du Chapeau - Rouge 40, near the Grand Theatre
(PLC, 4); Kic'HELiEU, Cours de Tlntendauce 4, near the Place de la Co-
me'die (PI. C, 4), R. from 3, dej. 3, I). 31/2 ft"- ; des Ambassadeurs, Cours
de rintendauce 14 (Pl.B, C,4), similar charges; r>E Nice, Place du Cha-
pelet 4, near Notre-Dauie (PI. C, 4) ; be Bayonne, Bue Martignac 4, well
spoken of; Conti>(ental, AUees de Tourny 60, left end, pens, from 9 fr. ;
JIarin et des Colonies, des Americains (commercial). Rue de Conde' 2
and 6, nearly as expensive; des Quatre-Sceuks, Cours du Trente-Juillet
U (Place de la Comedie); Lanta, Rue Montesquieu, 6, near theMarche' des
Grands-Hommes (PI. C, 4; restaurant, dear); de Toulouse, Rue Vital-
Carles 6-8, and Rue du Temple 7, R. from 3, dej. 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; Nicolet,
Rue du Pont de la Mousque 10 (PI. C, 4,5), an old established house, R.
2 fr. , good restaurant; FnAN<;Ais , du Palais Royal, Rue du Temple 12
and 6, new, moderate; de Londres, AUees d'Orleans 34, R. from 2, dej.
21/2, D. 3 fr. ; MoNTRE , Rue Montesquieu 4, hotel meuble. moderate; du
Perigord, d'Okleans, tliird-elass houses, in the small Rue Mautrec. —
Hotel du Printemps, R. 2fr.; du Faisan, Rue de la Gare , and the
other hotels near the Gare du Midi are all 3rd class houses.
Restaurants. At most of the hotels : Chapon-Fin, Rue Montesquieu 7 ;
Cafe Anglais^ Allees de Tourny 37 (PLC, 4); Bontou . Rue Porte- Dijeaux
(j4-6G (PLC, 5); de Paris ^ Allees de Tourny 26; de Tourny, same street
No. 16; des Nations, Allees d'Orleans, 42; Parisien, Rue Mably 7 (PL C, 4).
Caffis. Cafi de Bordeaux, Place de la Comedie 2; Cafi de la Comedie,
in the Grand Theatre; Grand Cafi, Cafi Anglais, etc., on the E. side of the
Alle'es de Tourny ; Cafi de VOpira, Cours du Chapeau-Rouge 50; Cafi Car-
dinal , Cafi Montesquieu, Cours du Trente -.Juillet 2 and 12; Bibent, Alle'es
de Tourny 1; Turc, Place Gabriel, at the Exchange. — There are several
Brasseries (beer-houses) in the Allees de Tourny.
Cabs. From 6 a. m. to midnight. From midnight to 6^a. m.
Each ~
1st hour
Drive
One-horse . .
Two-horse (closed)
» (open) .
addit.
hour
1 fr. 50
1 » 75
2 .. 50
Eacli
Drive
1st hour
addit.
hour
2 fr. 25
2 fr. 25
1 fr. 75
3 . -
3 .. -
2 . 5i>
4 » -
4 . -
3 . -
1 fr. 75 1 fr. 75
2.-2
3.-3
In hiring by time the first hour must be paid for in full, after wliich
tlie time may be reckoned by spaces of 1/4 hr. — Luggage: 50 c. for 1
or 2 packages, then 25 c. per package. — Outside the barrier the charges
are somewhat higher. — Per /)ay (12 hrs.), 15,20, and 25 fr. according
to the carriage.
Tramways and Omnibuses. Tliere are eight lines of tramway (see Plan)
and five lines of omniliuscs willi Vorrespondances' as in Paris. Fares inside
20 c, outside 15 c. — Tramways. 1. From the Boulevard Jean-Jacques-Boscq
(to the S. E. of PL F, 8) or Footbridge (PL E, 7) to the Hue Lucien - Faure
(PL F, 1). — 2. From the Place Magenta (PI. B, 6) to the Bastide (PL F, 4).
— 3. From the dare du Midi (PL E, 7) to the Gare du Midoc (PL 1), 1) or
Rue Lucien- Faure. — 4. From the Place de Bourgogne (PL I), 5) to the
Boulevard du Tondu (PL, to the W. of A. 6). — 5. From the Ware A'ji7ie-
litu (PL C, D, 4) to the Boulevard du Bouscai or de Caudiran (PL A, 2) viil
tlie Allees de Tournv. — 6. From the Place Richelieu to the Boulevard de
Caudiran, via the Rue .lud.aique (PL A, B, 4). — 7. From the Place Richelieu
to tht Boulevard de Talence (Pl.B, 8), via the Rue de St. Genes (PL B. 6-8)
or Rue de Persac (PL B, 6, 7). — 8. From the Place dWquitaine (PL C. 6)
to the Bonlecard de Bhjles (to the S of PLC. 8) via the Route de Tou-
louse (PL C, 7,8), or to Croix Hi. GtnH via the Route de Bayonne (PL B,
C. 7, 8) — Omnibuses. 1. From (he Rue Lucien - Faure (PL F. 1) to the Passage
Lormont (to the N. E. of PL F. 1). — 2. From the Uuai des Charirons (PL
I), 2, 3) to the Cours dWlbret et dWquilaine (PL B. 6). — 3. From the Place
de la Comidie (PL C, 4) to the Place Nansouttj and Boulevard de Bhjles (PL
C. 8). — 4. From the Place de la Bourse (PLC, 1). 5) to the Boulevard du
History. BORDEAUX. /. Roitte 6. 43
Tnndu et de Caitili^ran (PI. A, 3-5). — There, are other omnibus services in
tlie environs.
Railway Omnibuses. These ply from the following offices in the town.
For the Gam de Parif, Rue Oobineau 2, at the AUees de Tourny; AUees
d'Orleans 2: Quai des Chartrons 76; Place Gambetta 22: Place d'Aqui-
taine 14. For the Gate du Midi: Cours du Trente- Juillet 16 (starting
35 miu. before the departure of the train): at the tliree last-named offices
of the Gare de Paris: Quai des Salinieres 1. For tlie Gare du Midoc :
Rue Gobineau 2. Fare from the office 25-30 c, from a private house
50 c.: each article of luggage 20 c.
Steamers, llirondelles , Gondoles , and Abeilles ply in the harbour and
to places in the immediate vicinity. Larger steamers run to Castets, La
Re'ole. Agen. and other places above the town, and to Pauillac. Royan, etc.,
below (see p. 54). Ferry to La Bastide every 5 min. (10 c). — For the
steamers of the ^fessageries Maritimes, of the Pacijif ,Steam Xavigation Com-
pany, and of the Compagnie Gtnirale TraiisaUantique (South America, etc.).
.';ee the ludicateur or the Livret Chai.x.
Post Office (PLC. 5), Rue Porte-Dijeaux 10: several sub-offlces. —
Telegraph Office (PI. C, 4), Place de Tourny 4, and at the post office.
Theatres. Grand 7'hedire (PI. C , 4) , for operas (prices 1-5 fr.) :
Theatre Fraii(;ai!< (I'l. B. C, A: 50 c. toOfr.); Boufes - liordelaises or Theatre
f.nuit (PI.R. 4. 5: 50 c. to 3 fr.). Rue Castelnau-d'Auros : Folie.i Bordelaisef,
Rue Ste. Catlierine 54-56 (75 c. to 3 fr.).
Baths. Jlot Baths, AUees de la Place des Quineonces; Cold Baths,
Kcoles de Natation, above the Pont de Bordeaux, etc. Hydropathic
FMahlishment, Place Longchamp 4 (Pl.B. 3).
Consulates. British Consul, Mr. William Ward, Cours de Gourgues 9:
V'iceconsul , Mr. W. J. Norcop. — American Consul, Mr. Horace G. Knoicles,
Cours de Tourny 12.
English Church, Cours du Pave'- des -Chartrons (PI. C. 3); Chaplain,
liev. ./. H'. L. Burke. — French Protestant Churches, Rue du Ha 32 (PLCS).
Kue Notre-Dame (PL D, 3), Rue Barennes 19 (Pl.B, C. 3), and Impasse St.
.lean (Pl.U, 7). — German Protestant Church, Rue Tourat 31 (PLC, 3).
Burdeaux, the ancient capital of Guyenne, the chief town of the
ilepartmeiit of the Gironde, the headquarters of tlie 16th Army
Corps, and the seat of a bishopric and a university (5 faculties), is
a town with '241,582 inhab. , situated on the lelt bank of the Ga-
roime, 16 AI. from the Bee d"Ambes at tlie confluence of this river
with theDordogiie (p. 54), and 60 M. from its mouth on the Atlantic.
It is the fourth largest town in France and also one of the leading
towns in the kingdom in virtue of its commerce (p. 44), its splen-
did site, and its imposing appearance. The Garonne furnishes it
with an excellent harbour and with a safe and convenient water-
way to the ocean.
Burdigala , tlie capital of the Bituriges Viris^ci , was one of the chief
cities of Gaul in the Roman period. It became tlie capital of Aquitania
.Secunda, endured the devastations and the yoke of the Vandals, Visigoths,
Franks, and Normans, and became part of the Duchy of Aquitaine or
(iuienne, which passed to England on the marriage of Eleanor to Henry
Plantagenet (see p. 4). Jfore fortunate than other towns of the province, it
sutVered little from flie wars for supremacy between France and England,
and it became loyally attached to its new masters, who did much to
encourage its commerce, and retained it in their hands for 300 years (down
to 1453). The imposition of the salt -tax, under Henri II., caused a
serious insurrection here, for which the town was cruelly punished by
the Constable de Montmorency in 1548. Contests also arose between the
Catholics and Protestants of Bordeaux, and 264 of the latter were mas-
sacred alter St. Bartliolomew's Dav. The district was asain disturbed
44 /. lioute 6. BORDEAUX. Harbour.
by dissensions under Louis XIV., who regarded the town witli particular
favour. From the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI., vvhen Bordeau.x
had for its governor the Marquis of Tourny. date its principal embellish-
ment and the construction of its spacious thoroughfares. The ambition
of its 'Parlement' was easily repressed; but it did not so easily escape
the consequences of revolting against the Convention after the proscription
of the Girondins, at the head of whom were Vergniaud, Guadet, Gen-
sonne, Grangeneuve, Ducos , and Fonfrede, the deputies of the depart-
ment. The town could not reconcile itself to the rule of Napoleon, who
ruined its commerce, but its attachment to the Bourbons was also luke-
warm. In 1870-71 it was for three months the seat of the Provisional
Government, and then of the National Assembly, which here accepted the
preliminaries of peace with Germany.
The traveller who reaches Bordeaux by the Paris line, quitting
the train at the Gare de la Bastide. at once gains an idea of the
imposing character of the town, as he enters it by the *Poiit de
Bordeaux (Pl.D, 5). This bridge was for a long time without a rival
and it is still one of the most remarkable in the world. An attempt
made in 1810 to build a bridge of timber was abandoned, and the
present permanent one of stone and brick was erected (1819-21) by
the engineers Deschamps and Billaudel. It is 532 yds. long and
16yds. wide, and has 17 arches, the central and widest of which
have a span of 87 feet. Inside, between the arches and the roadway,
are passages, which lighten the structure and facilitate its being
kept in a proper state of repair without interruption to the traffic.
The interior may be visited by applying to the custodian, who lives
at the Bastide end of the bridge. The bridge commands a splen-
<lid *Vlew of the town and harbour. Higher up the river we see
the liailway Tubular Bridge, which is 546 yds. long and is con-
nected with a viaduct 110 yds. in length. The railway bridge also
has a passage for pedestrians. Near it. on the left bank of the river,
is the Gare du Midi.
The Harbour is one of the chief attractions of Bordeaux. The
Garonne here describes an almost complete semicircle , the arc of
which measures 3'/2 M- ^nid fh^ radius about 2 M. Along this cres-
cent stretches the town, which is in the shape of a half- moon and
is barely IV4M. across at its widest part. Although Bordeaux is
60 M. from the mouth of the Gironde, the tide comes quite up to it
and vessels of 2000 or 2500 tons easily reach the port. The ordi-
nary depth of the river here is 20 ft., and this is sometimes doubled
at spring-tides. From 1000 to 1200 ships can anchor in the har-
bour; and a vast lloating basin. 25 acres in extent, has lately been
constructed lower down, at the end of the quays, for the accommo-
dation of the largest vessels, of which it can hold seventy or eight\.
Spacious quays, dating, like most of the adjoining buildings, from
the end of the 18th cent., extend from one end of the harbour to the
other. Bordeaux, which now ranks as the third seaport of France, has
regular communications with most of the ports of the Atlantic, the
Kiiglish Channel, the North Sea, and the Baltic, with N. and S.
America, with Africa, and with India, and its shipping amounts
Place lies Quhiconces. BORDEAUX. I. Route. 6. 45
annually to nearly 2 millions of tons. Its oonuiHTce is chiefly in
wines, colonial produce, metals, English coal, timber froniN. Europe,
vinegar, grain, brandy, and manufactured products. It is at the
same time an industrial town, and has a large number of dockyards
and establishments for the supply of everything connected with
shipping.
The Couis Victor-IIuiio iPl. C, D. 5. 6 : see p. 50), which forms
a continuation of the Pont de Bordeaux and hends to the right to-
wards the cathedral, marks the limits of the old town, which in the
other direction (down stream) did not extend beyond the Place des
(^)uinconces (see below). The Vorte de Bourgoc/ne, at the beginning of
the Cours, was erected in 1751-55, but altered in 1807. From
the Quai de Bourgogne, the first below the bridge, the C'oiirs d'Al-
.■<nce-Lorniine {PLC. Jy.o). a wide and handsome new street, leads
to the W. direct to the cathedral. Farther along the quay, to the
left, is the Porte ue C.\ilhau, called also Porte lloyale or Porte du
Palais (P1.D.5). the ancient gateway of the Palais de rOmbriere,
pulled down in 1800. once the residence of the Dukes of Aquitaine,
and afterwards the seat of the governors of the district and of the
Parlement of Bordeaux. It is a fine Gothic structure flanked by two
round towers dating from 1495.
The Quai de Bourgogne is adjoined by the Quai de la Douane,
with the Hotel de la Douane. or Custom House (PI. C, D,5), built
by .lacques Gabriel at the end of the 18th cent., under the Marquis
de Tourny. Adjacent is the Place de la Bourse, adorned with the
tine bronze Fontaine des Trois Graces, executed by Gumery , after
^■isconti. The Hotel de la Bourse or Exchange (PI. C,4.5), which
is a counterpart of the Hotel de la Douane, built at the same time
and by the same architect, has lately been restored, and the N. fa-
cade in the Place Richelieu, and theAV. facade, towards the Coiirs
du Chapeau-Houge (see below), are new. The old allegorical sculp-
tures on the pediments of the Bourse are due to Francin, the new
to Coueffard (Place Richelieu) and to .Touandot.
A little farther on is the Place des Quinconces iPl.C, 4), the
largest in Bordeaux, occupying the site of the Chateau Trompette
(Tropeyte), built at the same time as the Fort du Hi (p. 50) , by
Charles VII.. after the submission of Bordeaux in 1453, to ensure
the obedience of the town. This chateau was destroyed in 1789.
The Place is 425 yds. long and 360 yds. wide, without reckoning
the semicircle with a fountain, which forms an addition to it on
the side opposite the quay. On the side next the river are two
J!o.<tral Columns. 65 ft. high, surmounted by statues of Commerce
and Navigation, by Manceau. and serving also as lighthouses. To
the right and left of these are two Bathing E^tahlishinents. Nearer
the middle of the square, among the trees, are colossal marble sta-
tues of Montaigne (d. 1592; to the S.) and Montesquieu (d. 1755;
to the N.) . two celebrities of the province, by Maggesi (1858).
46 I. Route 6. BORDEAUX. Grand-Theatre.
The Rue Foy leads to the N. from the Place, passing the vast ware-
houses of the Entrepot Reel, to the church of St. ioais (PI. C, 3), a fine
modern Gothic edifice in the style of the 13th cent., with stone spires,
and an elegant porch.
The Couis du Tiente-Juillet, which runs along the W. side of
the Quinconces, ends on the N. at the Jardin Public (p. 47) and
<iii the S. at the Allees de Tourny (see below) and the Place de la
f'ome'die (PI. C, 4). The last, which owes its name to the neigh-
bouring theatre, is the busiest point in the town, of which it may be
called the centre. To the E. runs the handsome Rue Esprit -des-
Lois, and to the S. is the busy but narrow and crowded Rue Ste.
Catherine. The S. side of the Place de la Coraedie also joins the
main line of thoroughfare which intersects the town from E. to W..
beginning at the Quai de la Bourse with the Cours du Chapeau-
Rouge, which is continued towards the W. by the Cours de I'lnten-
dance and the Rue Juda'ique.
The Graiid-Th6atre (PI. C, 4), to the S. of the Place de la Come-
die, built in 1755-80 by Victor Louis, but lately restored, has long
ranked as one of the finest theatres in Europe. It is in the classi-
cal style and is 290 ft. long, 154 ft. broad, and G2 ft. high. In front
is a portico of twelve Corinthian columns , above which is a ba-
lustrade with twelve colossal statues. At the sides are spacious
colonnades. The most noticeable features of the interior are the
vestibule, with its sixteen Ionic columns; the grand staircase,
which ascends in two flights; and the circular auditorium, which
is embellished with twelve composite columns. Above the vesti-
bule is a concert-hall. — It was in this theatre that the sittings of
the National Assembly were held in 1871.
Behind the theatre is the Pre'fecture (PI. C, 4) , also built bj'
Louis , in 1775 , for the 'Avocat G^n^ral' of the Bordeaux Parle-
ment. The facade, towards the Cours du Chapeau-Rouge, was restor-
ed in 1873.
The Alle'es de Tourny (PI. C, 4) , an oblong 'Place' , formerly
embellished with trees, now offer one of the most bustling scenes
ill Bordeaux. Most of the caf^s (p. 42) are situated here. At each
end is a monumental fountain. In the middle formerly stood a
bronze statue of Napoleon III., by Debay, on the pedestal of which
might be read the words from his famous Bordeaux speech (1852) :
'L'Empire, c'est la paix' ; but this was removed in 1870.
On the left side of the Allies de Tourny , near the Place de
la Comedie, is the Public Library, which contains upwards of
150,000 volumes and 250 MSS. The chief curiosity is a copy of
the 'Essays' of Montaigne, covered with annotations in the hand-
writing of the author. There is here also a Collection of Arms and
Antiquities (open on Sun. and Thurs. from noon to 4 or 5). — Near
the library is the church of Sotre-Dame (PI. C, 4), founded in the
13th cent., rebuilt in 1701 in the style of the period, and restored
in 1834. The internal decorations are elegant but by no means ec-
St.Seuriu. BORDEAUX. I. Route 6. 47
clesiastical. We note especially some paintings by Ilomain Cazes,
tho chief of which is a large fresco representing the Madonna en-
throned (1874). — Beyond the church is the Marrhe des Grands-
Hommes. a circular market-hall of iron and glass. Adjacent is the
Theatre Fran^ah (p. 43).
On the N.W. the Allies de Tourny end in a small circular Place
with a Statue of Tourny, of no artistic merit, erected in 1825.
To the left diverges the Cours de Tourny, leading to the Place
Gambetta ; to the right is the Cours du Jardin-Public.
The Jardin Public (PI. B,C, 3), which was originally laid out
by the Marquis de Tourny, but completely transformed in 1859, is
the finest promenade in Bordeaux. It consists of two parts: an
Eni/lixh Park, with a large number of splendid magnolias and other
exotics, and a well-stocked Botanical Garden, with large conser-
vatories. A ^grove of China palms (Chamaerops excelsa) flourishes
here in the open air. The park is much frequented on Sun. and
Thurs., when a military band plays here at 8 p. m. in summer and
'2.30 p. m. in winter. — On the S.W. side of the garden , and with
a direct entrance from it, is the Museum, open on Sun. and Thurs.,
11-5 in summer, and 11-4 in winter, and to strangers on other days
also. It comprises natural history, ethnographical, and prehistoric
collections.
Leaving the Jardin Public by the gate at the S.W. corner, beyond
the Museum , and taking the Rue du Colis^e , the fourth cross-
street to the right, we see in front of us the main part of the ruins
of the Amphitheatre (PL B, 3), generally called the Palais Gallien
because the Emperor Gallienus (d. 268) is supposed to have erected
it. The arena proper was oval in form and measured 84 yds. by
60 yds., while the whole structure was 144-149 yds. long and 114-
124 yds. wide A great part of the building was still standing in
1792. The four arches under which the street passes formed the W.
entrance. The ruins at this point are still over 60 ft. in height. —
Ts'o. 22 Rue du Colis^e contains a Collection of Marbles, open on
Sun., 12-4.
From the amphitheatre we may proceed to the S. to the old
cathedral of St. Seurin (PI. B,4) , built in the 11th cent, on the site
of a much more ancient church. Parts of the building, however,
are not later than the 13-15th cent., aiid a few additions have been
made more recently still. The W. facade, which is surmounted by
a spire, is of the 11th cent. , but it was masked in 1829 by a poor
porch. On the S. side is an interesting *Doorway of the 13th cent.,
with a Renaissance porch in front of it. The principal subject of
the sculptures, which liave been restored, is the Last Judgment.
The. Interior is very low and dark. The roof is borne partly by enormous
I'ound pillars, and partly by pillars grotiped with half-columns. The church
is throughout embellished with fine modern stained-glass windows. To the
left, in front of the choir, is a large new Gothic chapel, near which is
» chapel of the 13th cent. , with graceful arches and a handsome altar.
48 1. lioute 6. BORDEAUX. Mnsee.
Tlie choir contains an elaborate episcopal tbrone in the Flamboyant style.
On an altar in front of the throne is an ancient alabaster altar -screen,
part of which is in the Chapel of the Virgin. Its sculptures, comprising
about 40 groups, represent the Crucili.\ion and scenes from the life of St.
Seurin, Bishop of Bordeau.x in the 5th century. Vnder the choir is a very
old and interesting Crypt, divided into three vaulted aisles with semi-
circular vaulting (for adm. apply to the sacristan). It contains a Kenais-
sance cenotaph, placed over the tomb of St. Fort, lirst Kishop of Bor-
deaux, the tomb of St. Veronica, and si,x marble .sarcophagi, of the
4-Gth cent., adorned with sculpture.
Crossing the Allies Damour, to the S. of St. Seuriii, and lollow-
iiig the Hue Jiidai'que, to the left, we soon reach the Rue St. Ser-
iiiu, in wliich, to the left, is the Institution Natiouale des Suiirdes
Muetteg (Institution for Female Deaf-Mutes; P1.B,4), a handsome
classical building, [with a statue of the Abb^ de I'Epi^e at the en-
trance. Nearly opposite, to the S., is a large Ecole ProfessionneUe.
A little farther on the Rue Judai'que ends at the Place Gamhetta
(Pl.B, 4, 5), a fine square from which the Cours de Tlntendance
and the Cours Tourny diverge to the E. and N. E. From its S. E.
corner we enter the Rue Porte-Dijeaux, so named from an old town-
gate , and turn at once to the right into the Rue des Remparts,
which takes us to the Hotel de Ville, the new Musee, and the
Cathedral. The Hotel de. Ville (Pl.B, 5), formerly the archiepiscopal
palace, was built in 1770-81 for the Prince-Cardinal de Rohan-
Gueinenee and was restored after a fire in 1862. It is a handsome
building with a conspicuous entrance between two colonnades.
The Mus6e (PI. B,5), at the back of the Hotel de A'ille, and
facing the Cours d'Albret, consists of two wings, one on each sidfr
oi' a small garden. It is open to the public d.".ily, except Mon.
anil Frid. , from 12 to 5 in summer and 12 to 4 in winter; and
-trangers are admitted on Mon. and Frid. also.
The Right Wing is devoted to the old masters. — The \'estii!UI,k
contains a few sculptures; 712. Lemot , Apollo. — Room I. To the right,
')'23. P. Grebber, Batlisheba bathing; 233. Holbein the Younger, Portrait; 80.
Hehool of Murillo, Virgin and Child; 41. Lorenzo di Credi, Annunciation; 76.
Miirillo, St. Anthony "of Padua in an ecstasy; 146. Titian, Triumph of Ga-
latea; 32. L. CarracH (V), Dance of Amoretti ; 23. P. Verone.fe, Holy Fa-
mily; 117. Sabattini, Holy Family; 24. P. Veronese (f) , Venus and Cupid;
22. P. Veronese, The Woman taken in adultery; 75. Afoija , Portrait of a
liainter; 125. fiolimena , Joseph in pi-ison ; 12. Pieiro da Cortona, Vii-gin
and Child; 138. After Andrea del ,Harto, Holy Family; 113. Salvator liosa,
Aja.x; 147. Titian (0, The Woman taken in adultery ; ti43. Jtalian Sfliool^
David before Saul: 78. Miiri'lo O), Portrait of Don Luis de Haro ; 21. I'aolo
Veronese, Adoration of the Magi ; 2. Correggio (?), Ganymede ; 108. i>eb. Hicci,
l.ovr jealous of Fidelity: 103. Ribera, Conventicle; 143. Vasari, Holy Fa-
uiily ;'G3. Liheri, St. Apollnnia and an angel ; 15. Moretto, Virgin and Child :
S. i'ra liariolommeo , Holy Family; 84. Palma Vecchio, Holy Family: 73.
A/'inmi, The Archangel Gabriel; 47. Sandro liotticeUi, The Saviour; 139.
I'eridjino, Virgin and Child, with SS. Jerome and Augustine; 87. PaUneztano,
( rucifi.vion; 77. Mtivillo (;), A philosopher; 649. Jtalian fichool, Kcce Homo;
42. (1. Poiissin, Landscape ; 99. Ouido Rent, Mary Magdalen ; 106. Marco Riceiy
St. Anthony invoking the Virgin; 133. Tiepolo , Klea/.ar and IJebecca; 93.
Jlassano, Jesus with Martha and Mary; 3. School of Correggio, Venus asleep;
148. Titian 0), Tarquin and Liicretia; 54. Giordano, Venus asleep; Jl Cala-
hrese (Preti), (!\iitar-]ilayer; 1 yl!6«no, Venus and Adonis; 126. fipada, The-
Cathedral. BORDEAUX. I.Iioute6. 49
fourages of life; 40. Ctaari, Jesus washing the Disciples' feet; 150. School of
Titian, Mary Magdalen ; 96. Cam. Procaccini (?), The Annunciation. — Room II.
To the right : 25. P. Veronefe (?), Holy Family ; 333. Wouvennan (?), Battle ;
128. Tavella, Mary Magdalen with two angels; 92. Bassano, Leaving the
Ark; near thi- door, 184. Cranach the Elder, Venus and Cupid. — Room III.
To the right : 264. De Momper, Landscape ; 311. Teniers the Younger, Village
festival: 290. School o^ Rubens, Adoration of the Magi ; 159. Bakhuizen, Sea-
piece; 173. Braitwer, Interior; 320. 0. ran Veen, Marriage of St. Catha-
rine; 293. llubena, Bacchus and Ariadne; 157. Bakhuizen, Sea-piece; above,
J. Condray , Copy of the Hunt Ity Delacroi.x (see belov/); 246. Lingelhach,
Flemish topers: 268. Moncheron, Landscape; 254. Maes, Portrait; 218. Oo-
vaerts. Landscape, Diana resting; 253. Maes, Portrait of a man; 213. Franck
the Younger, Christ on Calvary; 214. School of Franck, Different ways of
attaining immortality; 186. Benj. Cuyp (7), Interior of a barn; 292. Rubens,
Martyrdom of St. Justus; 304. J. van Steen , Tavern -scene; 185. A. Cuyp,
Landscape; 158. /^.Bakhuizen, Sea piece; 187. B. Cuyp (?), Interior; 152.
Zanchi, Good Samaritan; 237. Karel du Jardin, Landscape with animals;
302. Snyders, The aged lion ; 182. Ph. de Champaigne , Joseph's dream (in-
jured); 212. Franck the Younger, Christ on Calvary; 166. N. Berghem., Land-
scape; 316. Tilborgh, Interior; *291. Rubens, Martyrdom of St. George; 310.
Teniers the Younger, The invocation; 263. H. Mommers, Landscape with fig-
ures; 283. School of Rembrandt, Adoration of the Shepherds; 231. Hobbema,
Landscape with figures: 178. '■Velvet" Brueghel, La Rosiere ; Rubens, 294.
Villagers dancing. 295. Crucifi.xion ; 217. Gedam, St. Jerome; 200. Van Dyck,
The penitent Maadalen ; several Flemish and Dutch landscapes. — Boom
IV. 729. Raggi, Bronze statue of Louis XVI., 21 ft. high (1829).
The Left Wing is devoted to modern works. — The Vestibule con-
tains sculptures: 701. Cambos, Citrasshopper. — Room I. To the right, 543.
Lethi'ere, Louis IX. visiting the plague-stricken ; 385. Botcguereau, Bacchante ;
466. Fran^ais , Landscape; 360. Bellange , Cuirassiers of Waterloo ; 631.
Troyon, O.xen ploughing; 441. Eugene Delacroix, Lion -hunt (a fragment,
the picture having been partly destroyed by a fire ; copy see above) ;
510. Jouy , Execution of Urbain Grandier (p. 14); 473. Claude Lorrain,
Landscape: .563. Mignard, Louis XIV.; 45. Ferrandiz , Judgment of the
Syndics of Valencia (Spain); 349. Antigua, Image-seller; 415. Cogniet, Tin-
toretto painting his dead daughter; 591. Pits, Trench before Sebastopol ;
378. Fr.-Aug. Bonheur, Return from the fair; 350. Antigna, Mirror of the
wood; 606. Restout, Presentation in the Temple; 384. Bouguereau , All
Souls' Dav. — Room II. To the right, 678. French School, Jesus giving the
keys to S"t. Peter; 579. Palliere, Bazeille (1870); 405, 406. Carrey, Present-
ation of a French ambassador to the Sultan, and Entertainment offered
to him; 153. A. Achenbach, Sea-piece; no number, E. Delaunay , Ophelia;
423. Courtois (le Bourguignon), Cavalry engagement ; 479. GerOme, Bacchus
and drunken Cupid. In the middle: 714. Lemoyne, Bust of Montesquieu;
698. /•'. Bonheur, Cow defending her calf, in bronze; 706. Eude, The echo
of the tlute, statue. — Room III. To the right, 508. Jsabey, Burning of the
steamer Austria (18.58); 355. Baudry , Toilette of Venus; 432. Dauhigny,
The banks of the Oise; 548. Luminais , Gallic scouts; 495. Gros, Embark-
ation of the Duchess of Angouleme (1815); 359. Beaulieu , Duel; 616.
Serres , Joan of Arc sentenced to death; no number, Delacroi.r , Boissy
d'Anglas: 422. Corot , Landscape; 496. Gudin, Captain Desse saving the
crew^of a Dutch vessel (1822); 300. Schenc.k, Reveill*!; 440. Delacroi.r, Greece
expiring amid the ruins of Missolonghi; 483. Gigoux , Baptism of Clovis.
— Room IV. contains pictures and sculptures of little interest.
The *Cathedral (St. Andre; Pi. B. C. 5). a few yards to the S.
E. of the Hotel de Ville, is one of the finest Gothic churches in
the S. of France. It consists of a large nave, destitute of fagade and
aisles, datinp from the ll-12th cent., with Romanesque arches; a
transept; and a choir with double aisles of the i4th century. The
principal portal, on the N. side, is flanked with two towers sur-
Baedeker. Southern France. •+
50 /. Route ft. BORDEAUX. Palais de Justice.
mounted by stone spires. The sculptures in the tympanum re-
present the Last Supper and the Ascension. In the trumeau is a
statue of Bertrarid de Goth, archbishop ot'Bordeaux, afterwards Pope
Clement V. (d. 1314), who contributed largely to the building. The
S. portal is of the same character, but its towers have no spires.
The Choir is the most admired part of the interior. Among the chief
works of art are tlie monument of Cardinal de Cheverus (d. ISSti), with
his statue, by Magyesi (near the pulpit); a Crucifixion, by Jordaens ; a
Resurrection, -by Alessandro Veronese (opposite the pulpit) ; two large bas-
reliefs of the Renaissance, below the organ, originally part of a rood-
loft and representing the Descent into Hell and the Resurrection; a Bear-
ing of the Cross, attributed to Ag. Carracci (at the side); the monument
of Monsgr. d'Aviau in the second choir-chapel to the right; a statue of St.
Anne , of the 16th cent. , some fine wood-carvings, and the monument of
Ant. de Noailles (1662), in other chapels. The high-altar, in an incon-
gruous style, was brought from a church at La Reole. — Richard II. of
England was christened in this cathedral.
About 30 yds. to the right of the choir of this church, opposite
the end of the Cours Victor-Hugo (p. 45), is the Clochek Peyber-
i.AND, built in 1440 by Archbishop Pierre Berland. It was sold
at the Revolution and partly pulled down, but was bought back in
1850 and restored. Unfortunately, however, the spire has been left
in a truncated condition, with a gilded statue of the Virgin at the
top. This tower contains a bell weighing about 10 tons.
To the S.W. of the cathedral rises the Palais de Justice (PI. B,
5, 6), a vast building erected in 1839-46, with a heavy facade, upwards
of 150 yds. long. In the centre is a peristyle portico of the Doric
order, and the projecting wings are crowned with seated figures of
Malesherbes, Aguesseau, Montesquieu, and I'Hopital.
Behind the Palais de Justice is the Prison, which occupies the
site of the Chateau du Far or Fort du Ha, built at the same time as
the Chateau Trompette (p. 45).
To the S. of the Palais de Justice is the extensive Hospital of
St. Andrew (650 beds; PI. B, 6), rebuilt in 1825-29, with a hand-
some entrance. A little farther on, to the left, is the church of Ste.
Eulalie (PI. B, C, 6), of very ancient foundation but rebuilt in the
14-15th centuries.
The Rue de Cursol (PI. B, C, 6) leads to the Cours Victor-Hugo,
■which extends from the cathedral to the Pont de Bordeaux. At the
bend which it makes near the Rue de Cursol are the new buildings
of the Faculties of Theology , Science, and Literature (PLC, 5, 6).
The vestibule contains a monument to Montaigne, who is interred
ill the basement. Farther on, to the left, is the Grand Marche', a
recent erection of iron and glass, and almost opposite is the new
Lyce'e National. In a short street to the right stands the Porte de
r Hotel de Ville, a flue relic of the old Hotel de Ville, dating in its
lower part from the 13th cent., while the upper half, with its three
turrets, was rebuilt in the 16th century. Above the arch, through
which the street runs, is a curious clock in the Renaissance style.
Higher up is another arch with a bell, and on the top of this is a
Ste. Croix. BORDEAUX. /. Route 6. 51
lantern surmounted by a lion. — Adjoining this gate is the modern
entrance of the church of St. Eloi, which itself dates from the 15th
century.
The church of St. Michel (PI. D, 6), near the Quai des Salinieres,
a little above the Pont de Bordeaux, is a fine Gothic edifice, found-
ed in the 8th or 9th cent., but rebuilt in 1149 and in the 15-16th
centuries. Its three portals are adorned with interesting sculptures,
representing the Nativity, the Adoration of the Shepherds, the Sa-
crifl('e of Isaac, Abraham (to the N.), and the appearance of St. Michel
to the Bishop of Sipontuni. The choir is lower than the nave, and
the wall above the arch by which it is entered is pierced by a
window. In the fourth choir-chapel to the left is a Descent from the
Cross, carved in the 16th century. The chapel of St. Joseph dates
from the Renaissance period.
The Bell-Towek of St. Michel, standing apart like that of the
cathedral , .32 yds. from the W. front of the church , was built in
1472-92. The spire, destroyed by a hurricane in 1768, has recently
been rebuilt , and the structure has also been strengthened by the
erection of six buttresses, crowned with statues, round the base.
The total height of the tower is 354 ft.
The soil of the old cemetery which once occupied this spot had the
singular property of preserving the dead bodies coulmitted to it; and a
guide is at hand to conduct strangers into a Vault where about forty
natural mummies of this kind may be seen (adm. 50 c). The melancholy
aspect of this exhibition is made almost fantastic by the attitude of the
mummies, placed upright against the walls. The guide recounts a more
or less true history of each.
Ste. Croix (PI. D, 6, 7), in the midst of the populous artizan
quarter which lies to the S. of St. Michel, is also one of the most
interesting churches of Bordeaux. It was originally founded in the
7th cent., or even earlier, but it was rebuilt in the 10th cent, in
the Romanesque style and has been restored several times since.
Its most striking part is the W. front, which recalls those of Notre-
Damc at Poitiers and the cathedral at Angouleme. No satisfactory
explanation of the sculptures of this fagade has been given , the
only recognizable details being the signs of the zodiac and a knight
slaying a dragon at the feet of the Virgin. The interior, part of
wliich is in the Gothic style, contains a noteworthy tomb of the 15th
century.
Adjoining this church is the Hospice des VieUlards (Hospital
for Old Men) , in an old Benedictine abbey, with a Renaissance
gateway.
The street to the left of Ste. Croix leads back to the Quays, which
it reaches near the Iluspire des Enfants Trouve's (Foundling Hospi-
tal), a building of the 17th cent., and not far from the railway-bridge
mentioned at p. 44.
The Boulerards of Bordeaux are noteworthy for their extent,
their fine trees, and their handsome buildings.
4*
52 /. Route 7. M^DOC.
From Bordeaux to Paris see R. 1 ; to La Rochelle and NanUi, see R. 4;
to Pirigueux and Limoges, see R. 5; to Roy an , see R. 7; to Arcachon, see
K. 8; to Bayonne and Biarritz, see R. 9; to Toulouse and C««ff, see R. 10;
to Tarbes (Pyrenees), see R. 11.
From Bordeaux to La Sauve, 17 M., railway in I-IV2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 30,
2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 80 c). — The intermediate stations are of no interest to the
touri.st. Near La Sanve are the ruins of an abbey founded in the lOlli cent.,
and rebuilt in the 13th cent., with a beautiful church.
7. From Bordeaux to Royan.
a. By the M6doc Eailway.
Railway to (621/2 M.) Le Verdon and Steamkk thence, in connection
with the trains, to Royan, at the mouth of the Gironde. The whole jour-
ney takes 4-41/m hrs. Tickets to Koyan allow the holders to break the
.journey at Soulae and Le Verdon. Fares 12 fr. 40, 9 fr. 3.5, 6 fr. 80 c. ; re-
turn-tickets, available for 8 days, 14 fr. 90, 11 fr. 20, 8 fr. 15 c. ; cheap ex-
cursions-trains in summer (return fares 6 fr. 50, 5 fr. 50, 4 fr. 50 c). The
trains start from the Gare du Medoe (p. 41). The sea is sometimes rough
at the mouth of the Gironde.
The whole journey may be made by railway (92 31., in 31/2-51/4 hrs.),
via the State line (Gare du Midi) and branch at Pons (p. 28).
Bordeaux, see p. 41. — From (2V2 M.) Bruges a branch runs
to (30 M.) Lacanau (p. 56). — At (5 M.) BUmquefort there is an
old castle.
Here begins the Mddoc , a district of the Bordclais occupying the
tongue of land between the Gironde and the sea (Medoc = "in medio
aquae') and long celebrated for its wines. The vineyards extend along
the left bank of the river in a band 5-12 31. in width reaching as far as
(48 M.) St. Vivien (see below). Thcj-e is a great variety in the growths,
but as a rule, only five kinds are distinguished as 'crus classes' (classi-
lied growths). The (irst-class growths are confined to Upper Medoe,
which extends from Ludon to a little beyond St. Estephe. Most of the
Medoc wines are red, but excellent white wines are also produced, though
the best of tliese, the Sauternes, are grown higher up on the left bank of
the Garonne (see p. 64). Some of the white wines are called 'graves'
because produced on the gravel deposits ('gravier') at the confluence of
the rivers. The soil of the vineyards elsewliere consists mainly of si-
liceous deposits, quartz, etc., brought down from the Pyrenees by the
Garonne. Tliese deposits are particularly suitable to the vine because they
are very loose and retentive of the heat. In consequence of the ravages
of the phylloxera and a series of bad harvests the wines of Bordeaux are
becoming more and more expensive, and those of the first growths, which
are generally exported , are extremely dear. The vintage generally be-
gins after the, middle of September and lasts till nearly the end of
October.
Beyond Blanquefort, to the right, lies I'arempuyre, with vine-
yards and ponds in which the breeding of leeches is carried on
on a large scale.
9V2 M. T^udon produces wines of the third clas.s (Chatean de la
Lagune and Chateau Nexon). — 11 M. Macau , with a small har-
bour on the fiaronne, which the line touches here. The IJec d'Am-
bes (p. 54) lies to the S. E., but is hidden by an island.
I5V2 M. Maviiaux produces wines of the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
classes. The finest, known as Chateau Margaux, is the second-best
SOULAC-LES -BAINS. I. Route 7. 53
M^doc wine, being siirpassed by Chateau Laffitte alone ^see below.)
— ITVa M. SoKssans ; 20 M. Moitlis.
20V2 ^^- •^'- Laurent-St. Julien. St. Laurent, a small town
1*2 M. to the left, produces wines of the fourth quality. The wines
of St. Julien . 2'/2 ^^- to the right . are mostly of the second class,
and are widely known under the names of St. Julien. Chateau L^o-
ville, etc. — Farther on, we pass on the right the domain of Chateau
Latour, the wine of which ranks next to Chateau Laflitte and Cha-
teau Margaux. The line again approaches the river.
29 M. Faoillac (Grand-Hotel), an old town of 4623 iuhab., lies
on the left bank of the Gironde and possesses a harbour used by
vessels which cannot get up to Bordeaux. Its wine-district, reckon-
ed the second of the MMoc in general importance, includes the
domain of Chateau Laffitte, which produces the finest wine of all.
32 M. St. Eifephe. with the largest vineyard in the country. Its
chief growth. Cos-Destournel. ranks among the second class wines.
— 35 M. Verteuil has an interesting Romanesque church. — 38*/.2M.
St. Germain-d' Esfeuil.
42 m. Lesparre. a small town with a tower of the 14th cent., a
relic of an old castle, and a fine modern church, is the junction of
a line to Facture and Ares i Arcachon : see p. 56). — 47 M. Queyrac:
50 M. Vensac : 51*'.3 M. St. Viiien, where the vines give way to
marshes. This large village has a chmxh belonging partly to the
14th cent., with a fine modern spire. — 54 M. Talais.
58 M. Soulac-les-Bains [Hotel dela Paii. Hotel Fontetes, both
expensive), a small watering-place, with a fine beach and surrounded
by pine-woods. Near the village, which lies '2 M. from the station.
is the curious Romanesque church of Le Vieux Soulac. buried after
the middle of the 13th cent, by the encroaching sand-dunes, which
have once more uncovered it in their advance inland. An inter-
esting walk may be taken at low tide along the foot of the dunes, to-
wards the Pointe de Grave (see below). The sea. which is extreme-
ly violent in this vicinity, has swallowed up the harbour of Soulac
and various other localities, including the Roman town of Soiio-
magus. Extensive dykes fepis"). constructed with great difficulty,
have been raised at the Anse des Huttes (1' ., M.i. the Pointe de
Grave ^5M.). and elsewhere, to resist the encroachment of the waves.
63 m. Le Verdon (Hotels), the terminus of the railway, is at
present of little importance, but possesses a small harbour of refuge.
From the station we proceed by tramway (no extra charge) through
a fine pine-forest to (• '4 hr.) the steamboat. To the right of the pier
is a fort. To the left, in the direction of the Pointe de Grave,
appears Royan. with its conspicuous casino. Directly opposite us
is St. Georges-de-Didonne (p. 54).
The voyage usually takes less than 3/4 hour. In the distance to
the left, is the Lighthouse of Cordouan (see below). Good view of
Royan as we approach. — Royan, see p. 55.
54 I. Route 7. BLAYE. From Bordeaux
b. By the Gironde.
Steamers ply from Bordeaux to Koyan in 41/2-51/2 hrs., twice a day
in summer (July, Aug., Sept.) and thrice weekly (Mon., Thurs., and Sat.),
during the rest of the year. They start from the quay in front of the
Place des Quinconees (p. 45), in summer at 8 a. m. and 2 p. m., in winter
at 8 or 8.30 a. m. Fares 6 fr. , 4 fr. ; return-tickets, available for 8 days,
9 fr., 6 fr. , fare by Sun. excursion- steamer in summer 3 fr. , 2 fr. Res-
taurant on board.
The scenery is dull and monotonous, but the great width of the Gi-
ronde , amounting at places to T'/a M. , makes it impressive, though
the water is generally turbid. Numerous islands are passed. The pas-
sage is sometimes considerably protracted when the tide is rising or the
sea at the mouth of the river rough. It is not possible to make the ex-
cursion both ways by steamer in one day, but those who are much pressed
for time may go by water and return by railway, or vice versa.
The steamer at first threads its way through the harbour of
Bordeavix, which is fringed by warehouses, manufactories, and ship-
building yards. To the left are the docks and a floating basin. To
the right rise the heights of Lormont (p. 12), with its picturesquely
situated chateau; 1. Parenipuyre (p. 52); r. Montf errand ; 1. Macau
(p. 52); r. Ambh and Le Bee d'Ambes, the latter a low and narrow
tongue of land stretching for some distance between the Garonne
and the Dordogne.
The Mascaret, a tidal wave similar to the Barre on the Seine
and the Bore on the Severn and sometimes 8-10 ft. high, advances
as far as this point in August and September. It appears on a
rising tide and is, partly at least, the result of the two opposing
currents in the bed of the river.
We next pass some long islands on the left, while to the right
are several quarries.
r. 25 M. Blaye (Hotel du Medor). a town of 4330 inhab., which
existed under the Romans and to this day retains a certain impor-
tance as a stronghold. It is prettily situated, partly on a hill,
but offers nothing of interest to the tourist. Its Citadel , on a rock
beside the river, is supplemented by the Fort dt( Pate', on an islet,
and the Fort Me'doc , on the left (opposite) bank. A branch-rail-
way runs hence to (15V2 M.) St. Martens (p. 29) ; another to (14 M.)
St. Giers-Lalande.
The steamer now heads for the left bank , on which are the
Chateau de Beychevelle, the slender spire of St. Jidien, and several
vineyards (pp. 52, 53). The right bank is now, in its turn, hidden
by islands. To the left lies (37 M.) Pauillac (p. 53), and farther on
are the hospital of Pauillac or Trompeloup, and St. Estephe (p. 53),
the latter on a knoll. Still farther on, to the left, rise the towers of
St. Chrhtoly and of Valeyrac. Near this point the Gironde is at its
widest. Ill mid -channel there is a sandbank about 8 M. long,
beyond which we again steer for the right bank , which seems to
consist mainly of chalk-cliffs. Lastly, on the same side, lies Sf.
Geortiei-de-Didon)ie, a small river-port and bathing-place surroun-
ded by woods , 2','2 M. short of Royan. On the left off the mouth
to Royan. ROYAN. /. Route 7. 55
of the Gironde stretches the Polnte de Grme (p. 53). Out in the
open sea rises the Lighthouse of Cordouan (see helow). On the right
hank stands —
Royan. — Hotels. Hotel de Bordeaux et de Frakce . de Pahis,
D 'Orleans (11. 2-3 fr.). all in the Boulevartl Thiers, near the harbour: du
Commerce, Boulevard Lessore, Richelieu, liimlevard Botton, both near the
baths; DE LA Croix-Blaxche, Rue de Roche fort and Boul. Botton; Hotel-
Restaur. du Centre. Rue Gambetta 52, R. IVa-Si/a, d(«j. 21/2, ^- -'^/i *>. —
At Pontaillac : H. d'Anc/ieterre:, de Pontaillac, de V Europe, on the beach.
Sea Baths, with bathing-box and dress. 60 c. to 1 fr. — Casino. Adni.
by day 1-2, in the evening 3-4 fr. ; subscription, per week 25, per fortnight 40,
per month 55, per season 80 fr. (families at a reduction).
Post and Telegraph Office, Boulevard Botton 54.
Royan, a modern town with 6702 inhab., is one of the chief
sea-bathing resorts in France, being frequented by about 40,000
visitors annually. It is well built, partly on the rocks which
overlook the mouth of the Gironde, opposite the Pointe de Grave,
and it offers to visitors all the usual amenities of a fashionable
watering-place. Its four Conches, or beaches, are covered with fine
sand and afford admirable facilities for bathing. At Koyaii itself
the sea is generally calm , even when the waves are breaking furi-
ously at Pontaillar, 1 '/^ M. to the W. (omn. 25 c. ; hotels, see above).
Between the two lie the Conche de Foncilton. in front of the new
Casino, and the Conche de Chay, Vs ^^- farther on, beyond a small fort.
Near the fine ciuay where we disembark rises the Casino, a hand-
some new building, facing the sea. Behind it is a fine park, which
we may enter also from the Hue du Casino, near the harbour, between
the Boulevard Thiers and the Rue Gambetta. The last named
street leads to the church of Notre-Bame, a handsome modern Go-
thic structure. — The liailiray Station (line to Pons, see p. 28) is
about 3/4 M. distant in the same direction.
The chief excursion from Royan is to the Lighthouse 0/ Cordouan,
to which steamers ply during the season, usually on Sun. and Thrsday.
The lighthouse stands on a rock 71/2 M. from Royan, accessible from the
shore at low fide. The islet was formerly, it is said, attached to the
Pointe de Grave (see p. 53), which is now more than 3 JI. from it. The
tower was perhaps originally constructed by the Saracens or by Louis the
Pious, but it was rebuilt by Edward, Prince of Wales (the Black Prince)
in 1370. and again in 1584-1610 from the plans of Louis de Foix, one
of the architects of the Escurial. The present tower, however, dates
from the beginning of this century. The lighthouse . with its basement,
rises to a height of 212 ft. Such is the violence of the sea at this spot,
that the waves, though broken by reefs, still rise more than 40 ft. against
the tower. The light is visible for 30 M. In the second story of the
tower is a chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Cordouan.
Railway from Royan to Pons and to La Tremblade, etc., see p. 28.
8. From Bordeaux to Arcachon.
35 _M, Railway in iVs-SVa Iirs. (fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 45 c).
Excursion-trains at reduced fares on Sun. and holidays in summer (return
3 fr. 85, 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 60 c). The trains start from "the Gare du Midi or
de St. Jean.
Bordeaux, see p. 41. This line diverges to the right from the
56 /. Route 8. L ANDES. From Bordeaux
Toulouse railway (R. 10), and passes, partly in cuttings, through a
wine -growing district, the finest product of which is the HaM<-
Brion, a wine of the premier cru (p. 52). 8^/4 M. Pessac ; ^^|^M..
Qazintt.
The disappearauce of the vineyards and the appearance in their place
of plantations of pines now indicate that we have entered the singular
district known as the landes (waste lands). The name is given to a vast
triangular plateau, 150-200 ft. above the sea, and bounded by the Atlantic
and the valleys of the Garonne and the Adour. On the side next the
sea it is upwards of 120 M. in length, its maximum width is about
60 M., and it covers an area of 2300 sq. M. The soil is composed of a
layer, about I1/2 ft. deep, of sand and alios, i. e. vegetable detritus solid-
ified by a ferruginous cement , which renders it unfit for cultivation.
Even after the great improvements of late years, the district is still
dried up in summer and marshy in winter, the alios rendering the soil
impervious to moisture, while the sand-dunes (200-300 ft.) along the coast
hinder the escape of the surface waters. These dunes, moreover used to
invade the country, advancing about 20 yds. every year, but the attack has
been arrested by the planting of sea-pines (pinus maritiina), begun in 1786.
The circulation of the waters, too, has been regulated, and the forests, al-
ready of great extent, are daily gaining on the bare ground. There, still
remain, however, vast stretches of country , almost entirely waste, over-
grown with heath, furze, reeds, bracken, and broom, and presenting a
unique but monotonous appearance. It will be noticed that the trunks of
the pines are scored with gashes , below which small tin vessels are
placed. The purpose of these is to collect the resin, which forms a very
important article of commerce here. The sea-pine is not, however, the
only tree which thrives in the Landes ; the acacia, the ailanthus, tlie oak,
and the cork-tree are successfully grown, the last chiefly near Bayonne.
In order to traverse the sands and the marshes, the inhabitants of the
Landes have had to adopt the custom of walking on stilts, 4-6 ft. high,
supporting themselves by a pole which serves as a walking-stick. It was
formerly no uncommon sight to see the natives, often clad in sheepskins,
traversing the Landes with the speed of a horse at full gallop , or
supported on the end of their long poles, tranquilly watching their
flocks and knitting the footless stockings peculiar to the district. Now-
a-days, however, the tourist, or at least the railway-traveller, will see
nothing of this kind, for there are fewer marshes and fewer pasturages
than formerly, and many roads have been made throughout the Landes.
11 M. Pierroton; 14 M. Croix - d' Hins ; 17 M. Marcheprime :
20'/2 M. Canauley ; 23 M. Facture.
Fkom Facture (Aucachon) to Lbsparke (Royan). oG^/2 M., railwav in
43/4 Urs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 8 fr. 40, 6 fr. 15 c.). This line, which traverses
the Landes of the Gironde, skirts at first the N.E. side of the Basin of
Arcachon (p. 58). — 8 31. Taiissat , a small sea-bathing place; 13 M. Arits,
a country-town and bathing-resort. The line then tui-us to the N., skirt-
ing the'VV. side of the sand-dunes, which here attain a height of more
than 200 ft. and have several times necessitated the removal of the neigh-
bouring hamlets. — 28 M. Lacanau (Hotel Caupos), to the E. of the pool
of the same name, which is 5 M. long and 2 M. broad. It is the junction
of a line to Bruges and Bordeaux (see p. 52). — Beyond (35 M.) Carcans,
we pass the Etan<j de Carcans or d'llourlin, 11 M. long and 21/2-31/0 M.
wide. — 43 M. Ilouttin. — 561/2 M. Lesparre, see p. 53.
The railway just described" is continued to the S.E. of Facture by a
line running through the valley of the Leyre (see below) via Hostenr
(junction of a line to Beautiran ," p. 63) and (31 BI.) St. Symphorien (see
p. 64) to (45 M.) Luxey.
We now cross the Leyre, a navigable river flowing into the Basin
of Arcachon, and at (25 M.) Lamothe diverge to the right from the
to Arcachun. ARCACHON. /. Route 8. 57
Ba\orine line (p. 58). — 26V2 M. Le Teich ; 29 M. Giijan-Mestras ;
31 M. La Hume.
33 M. La Teste, a town of 6200 iiihab.. represents the ancient
capital of the Boii. which the dunes have driven back to its present
site. In the Middle Ages it was the residence of the famous Seig-
neurs of Buch, whose casfle has disappeared.
La Teste is the junction of a branch-railway to (8 M.) Cazaux , a vil-
lage on the lake of the same name , which has an area of 17,000 acres
and is more than 150 feet in depth. It formerly communicated with the
sea, but is now SO ft. above the sea-level. Farther on is the similar
Lake of Parentis.
35 M. Arcachon. — Hotels. Grakd- Hotel (R. from 3, dej. 3, D.
4ir.), Continental, de France, Richelieu, all in the Boulevard de la
Plage, with verandahs on the side next the Bassin ; Jampy; Grand-Hotel
DE LA Foret, near the Grand Casino; Lbgallais, etc. — Furnished Souses;
Chalets from 250 fr. per month; Villas in the forest. — Restaurants, at
the hotels: de Paris; dit Progres; de VAvenir, in the Boulevard de la
Plage. — Caf^s. *Grand Cafi, Moliere, Central, Boulevard de la Plage.
Bathing Soxes, belonging to the beach-hotels, 60-75 c, with bathing-
dress.
Casinos. Grand Casino (see below), adm. 1 fr. (50 c. to the park
alone).
Carriages. Per drive 11/.) fr. ; with two horses 2 fr. ; per hour 21/2 or
3 fr. : 50 c. e.xtra on Sunday and at night. — Boats 2 fr. per hour. — Steamer
to Cape Ferret (p. 58), there and back 2 fr.
English Church (St. Thomases). Rev. S. Radcliff , B. A., Chaplain. —
British Vice-consul ; Mr. A. J. de Label.
Arcachon is a charming sea-bathing and winter resort, which has
recently come into vogue and is now annually frequented by 100,000
visitors. The resident population is 8102. On Sundays and holi-
days it is inundated with excursionists from Bordeaux. It consists
of two parts, the town proper, situated on the lagoon of the same
name (see below), and the Ville d'Hiver, or winter -town, in the
forest planted on the dunes to the S. The former, though of very
recent origin, has already a very pleasant appearance, with its
pretty houses of every style scattered amid gardens and parks. The
most noticeable structures are the church of Notre- Dame, built
in 1856 by Alaux . in the Gothic style: the Chateau Deganne, on
the shore, at the end of the Avenue de la Gare; and the Grand Ca-
sino, a handsome building in the Moorish style, comprising a concert-
hall, reading and conversation rooms, card-rooms, and caf^s in the
Oriental style. At one side is an iron Observatory , or belvedere,
commanding a fine view (10 c). — The Ville d'Hiver is snugly
ensconced among the pine-woods, the resinous emanations of which
combine with the bracing sea-air to make it a peculiarly healthy
resort. The temperature is at the same time very favourable to in-
valids , the mean of the whole year being 59° Fahr. and that of
winter 48° Fahr. The villas of the winter -town are even more
luxurious than those on the beach. — Arcachon still lacks a pro-
menade-pier. The houses and the hotels have been built too near
the water and it is only by making detours that one can walk about
on the sands even at low-water.
58 I. Route 8. ARCACHON.
The Bassin cV Arcachon is a capacious gulf or lagoon, nearly
50 M. in circumference and 60 sq. M. in area , of which, however,
two-thirds are dry at low -water. Its form is triangular, the apex
being to the N. , near Ares (p. 56) , and the base extending from
the mouth of the Leyre on the N.E. to the strait which connects it
with the open sea . on the S.E. The shore is a very safe one for
bathing, of gentle slope and of fine sand. The water is as strongly
impregnated with salt as that of the open sea, but vigorous bathers
will miss the buffetting of waves.
Those parts of the Bassin which are left dry by the tide, called
'Crassats', are utilised for the breeding of oysters, which is the chief
industry of the district. The oysters of Arcachon are in high repute
and 300 millions of them are sold annually, representing a value of
about 180,000 I. In the middle of the Bassin . reached by boat in
^/4 hr. , is the He des Oiseaux, on which is a government 'Ecole-
Ferme' for oyster-breeding.
On the opposite side of the Bassin extends a tongue of land con-
sisting of sand-dunes and ending to the S. in Cafe Ferret, on which
stands a lighthouse of the first class (8 M. from Arcachon). The
roadstead protected by the cape is broad and safe, but access to it
is made difficult by banks of shifting sand. A scheme has been
mooted of narrowing the channel by means of dykes and so estab-
lishing a refuge on this part of the coast, which is dangerous and
offers no other shelter.
A pleasant walk may be taken as far as MoulUau , a village about
3 M. to the W. , with an institution and a ehapel founded by the Bene-
dictines. It may also be reached by the beach, by a route passing, to
the right at the end of the Boulevard de I'Ocean, the Pare Pereire , a
private park to which the public are not admitted.
The steamboat trip to Cape Ferret (see above) is not recommended to
visitors pressed for time. It takes at least 3 hrs., and presents no .special
attraction except the view of the open sea. The walk to the steamboat
quay , over fatiguing sand-hills , may be avoided by using the tramway
(return- fare 50 c). The lighthouse is too far from tlie landing-place to
be conveniently visited. — The excursion to the open sea, at the entrance
to the bay, is scarcely more interesting.
9. From Bordeaux to Bayonne and Biarritz.
Railway to (123 M.) Bayonne in 33/4-6 I'l'S- (fares 24 fr. 50, 18 fr. -40,
13 fr. 50 c). — Local Railway from Bayonne to (5 M.) Biarritz in 1/4 hr.
(fares 75,45 c.). — Through -tickets to Biarritz convey the traveller to
La Negresse station (p. 101). — The trains start from the Gare St. Jean (p. 41).
From Bordeaux to ('25 M.) Lamofhe , see p. 57. The line then
runs straight across the Landes for a distance of nearly 30 M. —
32 M. Caudos; 39 M. Lugos : 47 M. Ychoitx ; 50 M. Labouheyre, a
small industrial town (branch-lines to the W. to Mimizan, 17 M. ;
to the E. to Sabres, 12 M.) ; 60 M. Solfe'rino.
68 M. Morcenx {* Buffet, dej. 1V2-3, D. l^^-S'/a fr.), a large
village, l'/4 M. to the S. of the railway.
From MoRrcNx to Tardus, 85 M. . railwav in 4-41/4 hrs. (fares 16 fr.
90. 12 fr. 65. 9 fr. 30 c).
DAX. /. Route 9. 59
24 M. Mont de Marsan (Hotel du Commerce) , a commercial town with
11,760 inhab., the capital of the department of the Landes , is pleasantly
situated at the confluence of the Midou and the Dome, which together
form the Midotize, an affluent of the Adour. It possesses next to nothing
of interest to the tourist. A branch-line runs hence to (15 M.) Roquefort,
a small town with a ruined castle. This branch is to be prolonged to
JIarmande (p. 64). A diligence also plies to St. Seter, a town of Roman
origin with an old abbey-church (10th century).
We now reach a more fertile country and gain our first sight of the
Pyrenees, on the right, the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (p. 124j being the chief
summit visible. — 33 M. Grenade -sur-V Adour. About Si/o 31. distant is
Euginie-les- Bains, a small watering-place with warm sulphur baths.
44 M. Aire (Paste), a very ancient town with 4684 inhab. and the seat
of a bishopric, also on the Adour. Beyond (50 M.) St. Germe the line
crosses the Adour. — 531/2 M. Riscle, the junction of a new line to Con-
dom (p. 65). — 741/2 M. Vic- Bigorre , with 3703 inhab., is the junction
for Agen and Pe'rigueux (see p. 91). — 85 M. Tarbes, see p. 112.
From Moreenx a branch-line, devoid of interest, crosses the Landes
to the W. via Sinderes to (14 M.) Mezos and (I8V2 M.) Uza.
76 M. Rion : 83 M. Lnluque. In clear weather the Pyrenees now
come into view on the left. — 87V2 M. Buglose , a hamlet belong-
ing to St. Vincent - de -Paul (formerly Pony) , the birthplace of the
saint of that name. A handsome chapel has recently been erected
here to the saint, and at Biiglose is a pilgrimage -chapel, with a
wonder-working statue of the Virgin. — We now quit the Landes
and enter the valley of the Adour.
92 M. Dax {Grand-Hotel des Thermes : de la Paix ; Hotel de
I' Europe; Hotel Figaro) , a town with 10,858 inhab., on the left
bank of the Adour . ^/^ M. from the station , is the old capital of
the TarbelU. called by the Romans, in honour of its thermal
waters, Aquae Tarbellicae, afterwards Civitaa Aquensiuin, and then
simply Aquae or Acqs. After submitting in turn to the Goths, the
Franks, and the Vascons, the town was reconquered by Charlemagne,
destroyed by the Normans and the Saracens, and held by the English
from 1177 to the end of the 15th century.
In spite of its antiquity this town has no noteworthy monuments.
It is, however, of importance as a thermal station, and even as a
winter-resort. The waters (108° Fahr.) are used in baths of every
description (including mud-baths) for rheumatic, surgical, neuralgic,
and uterine diseaes. Some of the baths are fed by the bed-water
of a mine of rock-salt.
A bridge leads over the Adour from the station to the (V2 M-)
town. Behind the Chateau (on the right; now a barrack) are the
well-managed Thermes de Dax, with rooms for boarders. To the
left, above the bridge, is the copious Fontaine Chaude, the chief
spring, which supplies the Thermes Romaines and the Bains La-
vigne, etc., while the water is also used for domestic purposes.
The site of the old walls beside the Adour is occupied by the
pretty Promenade des Remparts . and in the former moat are the
mud-baths of .St. Pierre. — The former Cathedral was rebuilt in
the 17-18th centuries. — Farther down the left bank are the Thermes
60 /. Route 9. BAYONNE. From Bordeaux
Seris and the Baignots, both unpretending but comfortable. — Be-
hind the Establishment is a pretty Promenade, with the Toitr Borda.
About 1/2 M. to the W. of Dax is St. Paul-Us-Dax, with an interesting
church of the 12th and 15th cent., decorated with mural paintings of the
15th century. — At Tercis, 4 31. to the S.W. , are warm baths containing
chloride of sodium.
From Dax to Pau , 53 M. , railway in 11/2" ^Va hrs. (fares 10 fr. 45,
7 fr. 85, 5 fr. 75 c). — This line skirts the town 2 the S. and crosses
the Adour. — 8 M. Mimbaste; 13 M. Misson-Habas. The train then passes
through a tunnel and enters the valley of the Gave (torrent) tie Pau,
affording a fine view of the Pie d'Anie (p. 117) and other summits of the
Pyrenees. — 19 M. Puyoo, on the line from Bayonne to Pau (see p. 105).
The line to Bayonne now descends the valley of the Adour.
98 M. Riviere; 101 M. Saubusse, with mud-baths; 104 M. St.
Geours; 107 M. St. Vincent; 111 M. Benesse; 115 M. Labenne.
Our route now approaches the sea , which comes into view
on the right, as we emerge from the forest. The Adour , which has
been lost sight of for a while, reappears at the next station. — 121 M.
Le Boucau, not far from the outlet of the river.
The Adour has not always had its mouth at this place. Down to 1360,
or even later, it flowed along the dunes and entered the ocean 8-9 M.
farther N., at the small port of Cap Breton. This outlet having been choked
by a storm , the river was forced to seek another at Vieux-Boucau, 10 M.
farther on. This change having proved very prejudicial to the navigation
of the river and particularly to the trade of Bayonne , Louis de Foix,
architect of the Escurial, was commissioned in 1578 to create the present
outlet, which owes its continued existence to strong embankments cutting
the river off from its older and natural channel.
We now follow the right bank of the Adour and pass the foot
of the citadel of Bayonne, skirting the quarter of St. Esprit, in which
is the principal station. For the line to Biarritz, see p. 62.
123 M. Bayonne (*Grand Hotel, Rue Thiers 21: Pnnier-Fleuri,
well spoken of; Billaina; St. Efienne; St. Martin; de la Pair. —
Omii. to or from the station 20 c. — British Vice-consul: C'apt.
R. P. Leeson) . a town and fortress with 27,289 inhab. , prettily
situated at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive. 3V2 M. from
the Bay of Biscay. It is badly built and presents few objects of
interest, except its fine cathedral; but its situation gives it a quaint
and interesting appearance — at any rate to one who does not know
Spain. The population consists mainly of Basques and Spaniards,
whose types, manners, language, and dress form a striking contrast
to those of the other inhabitants.
Bayonne, which is probably the Lapurdum of the Romans , acquired
some importance in the Middle Ages by its whaling fleet, its trade with
Spain, its tanneries, and its manufactures of arms. The bayonet is said
to have been invented here. .Acquired by England along with Aquitaine,
the town remained faithful to that country till 1451, thanks to the privi-
leges granted to it. It oH'ered a vigorous and successful resistance to
Spain in 1.523. Heie, in 1565, amid great rejoicings, took place the inter-
view between Charles IX. of France and his sister Elizabeth, Queen of
Spain, in the presence of their mother, Catherine de Me'dicis. and the
Duke of Alva, when the Massacre of St. Bartholomew is said to have been
planned. In 1814 Bayonne made a brave resistance to the British and
Spanish troops under Sir John Hope and was still untaken when peace
was declared. The name Bayonne is Basque and means 'port'.
to Biavrifz. BAYONNE. I. Route 9. 61
The suburb of .S^ Esprit, iu which the station lies, formed a sepa-
rate town until 1857. It is dominated by a Citadel, built by Vauban
(1674-79) and considered one of his best works. It has never been
taken, and over the entrance is the inscription 'Nunquam polluta'.
It commands a flue view, but admission is not easily obtained.
Turning to the right on leaving the station , we soon cross the
Adour by a bridge from which there is a striking view. At the end
of the bridge is a fortified gate, the Re'duit, near the mouth of the
Nive, which divides Bayonne into two parts. Petit - Bayonne , the
quarter adjoining the Adour. is chiefly occupied by the working-
classes. It contains the Military Hospital; the Chateau -Neuf
(15th cent.), converted into a barrack and military prison; the
Arsenal; and the Church of St. Andre', a modern Gothic building
in the style of the 15th century, containing (in the last chapel on
the right) an Assumption by Bonnat.
The Pont Mayou. the first bridge over the Nive, on the other side
of the R^duit, leads us to the Place de la Libert^. The large building
here comprises the Town Hall, the Theatre, the Public Library,
containing some important records , and a small Museum. On the
other side of the town is the Place d' Amies, from which the Rue
Thiers, with the principal hotels, leads to the Porte Marine. Out-
side the town is the AWf'e dePauUny, a promenade skirting the
fortifications (adjacent is the small Biarritz Station , see p. 62);
and opposite are the Alle'es Marines, a fine promenade about 1''4
M. long, on the left bank of the Adour.
The Kue Victor-Hugo, the principal street of the town , and its
prolongation, the Rue de TArgenterie (on the right), lead from
the Pont Mayou to the -
*Cathedkal, originally founded in 1140, but rebuilt after a fire
in 1213. The choir was first taken in hand, and the work was
(continued till 1544. when the great portal was left unfinished. In
1847 a citizen of Bayonne , M. Lormand , bequeathed a sum of
35,000 fr. a year for the restoration and completion of the build-
ing, and the work is still going on under the direction of M. Boes-
willwald. The usual entrance is by the portal on the N. side, which
is preceded by a vestibule and is adorned with rich sculptures. On
the S. side of the church . which is hidden by other buildings,
stands a cloister of the 13th cent., formerly used as the burial-place
of the chapter. The fine *S. Portal adjoins the Sacristy, which con-
tains beautiful and well-preserved sculptures of the 13th cent,
(entr. from the interior of the church). The internal proportions of
the Cathedral are vast and harmonious; the transepts project very
slightly beyond the aisles. Among the most noticeable points are
the triforium (with stained-glass wiTidows of the 15-17th cent.), the
liandsome high-altar (modern), the marble pavement of the sanctu-
ary (modern Italian work in imitation of an Oriental carpet), and
the new mural paintings on a gold ground in the apsidal chapels.
62 I. Route 9. BIARRITZ. From Bordeaux
In the Place de la Cath^drale is a small Fountain in memory
of two Bayonnais killed at Paris in 1830, with the inscription : 'Les
revolutions Justes sont le cliatiment des mauvais rois'. Near the
cathedral, to the N.W., stands the Chdtemt-Vieux, of the 12th and
15th cent., which is supposed to have been built on a part of the
Roman enceinte. It is now occupied by military offices. Descending
farther we reach the Place d'Armes (p. 61).
From Bayonne to BiabritZj V4 hr. by local railway (see p. 58) :
trains every hour, or oftener, from the station near the AU^e Paulmy
(p. 61). There is also a tramway-line. Travellers are advised not
to go to Biarritz by the Hendaye line (p. 101), the station of which
is about 2'/4 M. from the Baths, but they may return by that line if
they have to go farther S.. or to a station bevond Bayonne on the
N. (R. 14).
Biarritz. — Hotels. Hotel d'Augleterre, Grand Hotel, both first
class, with a sea-view ; du Casino ; Continental, Victoria, des Princes,
DE Bristol, de Paris, also with a sea-view : des Ambassadeurs ; de
l'Kurope; de Fkanob; de l'Ocean, well spoken of.
Caf^ Anglais, Place Bellevue. — Restaurant du ffelder, first class.
Baths at the Bathing Establishments (see below) 35 c, with dress 50 e.
Casino. Acini. 1 fr. ; 3 fr. after 7 p. m. Subscription for a week 15,
for a fortnight 25, for a montli 40 fr.
English Church (St. Andrew's); Chaplain, Rev. G. E. Sroade , M. A. —
British Vice-consul: Mr. E. H. W. Bellairs. — English and American Physi-
cians; Dr. Macken, Dr. Welby^ Dr. Malpas.
Biarritz, a town of 8444 inhab, , situated on a line of cliffs
facing the Bay of Biscay, is one of the most frequented bathing-
places in France, especially during September. The court patron-
age of the Second Empire undoubtedly contributed to this result,
but the reputation of the place is also founded on its real merits,
such as its singular situation and its magnificent beach. The cli-
mate is mild and free from extremes, so that Biarritz is now in
vogue as a winter-resort. On the other hand, the parks and woods
which constitute the charm of Arcachon are altogether wanting
here. The tone of society , too , is very different , Biarritz being
specially frequented by the upper classes, by the aristocraey of
Southern France, and by Spaniards.
The principal attractions of the town are the beach, or rather
beaches, the rocks of the Atalaye, and the Port-Vieux. The Grande
Plage, which is more than '/a M. long, extends on the N. to Cape
St. Martin, on which is a lighthouse of the first class. It is divid-
ed into two parts by a small promontory on which stands the old
Villa Eugenie, a large and massive building erected by Napoleon III.
for his wife, afterwards used as a casino. On this side of the villa
is the principal Bathing Establishment, in the Moorish style, with
a terrace which always presents a scene of great animation. The
fine sandy beach is safe and pleasant for bathing, and the force of
the waves is slightly broken by a barrier of rock.
To the S. of Biarritz rises the .Malaye. a promontory crowned
to Biarritz. CAMBO. /. Route 9. 63
by a ruined castle and surrounded by a picturesque chaos of rocks
called La Chinaougue. Ou one side of it is a small fishing harbour,
on the other (reached by a tunnel 82 yds. in length) a harbour of
refuge, the half-ruined pier of which affords a fine view of the Spa-
nish mountains near the mouth of the Bidassoa. From the tunnel,
a road descends to the Port-Vieux, a narrow and perfectly sheltered
creek between rocks. Here stands the bathing establishment for
persons who are weakly or unaccustomed to the sea. Farther on we
reach another beach , the Cote des Basques, where the waves , with
nothing to arrest them, attain extraordinary force. There is a third
bathing establishment here. On the second Sunday in September,
the Basques resort to this beach in vast numbers, and bathe all
together, affording a very curious spectacle.
From Bajonne to St. Sebastien, see R. 14; to Pau, Toulouse, etc. see R. 15.
From B.\yonne to Cambo (St. Jean - Pied -de -Port) , 12 M. , diligeuee
daily (fares 2 or li 2 fr) A railway to St. Jean -de -Port is now in pro-
gress. — The railway and the road both ascend tlie left bank of the Nive,
passing (81/0 M.) L'staritz , a small industrial town. — Cambo (Hotel St.
Martin, de Paris, both near the Baths; de France) is a picturesquely
situated village, partly on a steep eminence on the right bank of the
Is^ive (Haut-Cambo) and partly in the valley (Bas-Cambo). It contains a
frequented bathing-establishment, 3/^ M. from Haut-Cambo, with iron and
sulphur springs. The climate is hot in summer, but pleasant in spring and
autumn. A great gathering of Basques takes place ou St. John's Eve (June
23rd), when each tries to drink the greatest possible amount of water whilst
the clock is striking twelve (midnight), in order to insure his well-
being until the following anniversary. They also take away with them a
supply of the water for those who have not been able to come. The church,
in the style peculiar to the country, contains three galleries for men and
a blue ceiling with silver stars. — The environs are pretty. About 3 M. to
the S. is the village of Itsatsou, and 1 31. farther on, in the rocky part of
the Nive valley, is the Pas de Roland, a rock through which the road
passes by an opening made , according to the legend , by a kick of the
Paladin's foot. The chief eminence near Cambo is the Pic Mondarrain
(2460 ft.; to the S.) , which is easily climbed in 2 hrs. from Itsatsou.
The top, on which is a ruined fortress, commands a very extensive view.
To the W. the ocean is visible from the mouth of the Adour to that of
the Bidassoa. To the S.W. are La Haya or Les Trois-Couronnes (p. 103)
and La Rhune (p. 102). — The return may be made from Cambo to Bay-
onne by boat on the Nive, the current of which is very swift.
In the valley of the Nive. about 18 31. above Cambo, lies St. Jean-
Pied-de-Port (Hotels), a small town fortihed by Vauban in order to com-
mand the passage of the Port or Col de Roncevaux. 14-15 31. farther on.
10. From Bordeaux to Cette (Montpellier).
a. From Bordeaux to Toulouse.
159 31. H.vii,WAY in 5-9 hrs. (fares 31 fr. 75, 23 fr. 85, 17 fr. 50 c). The
trains start from the Gare du 3Iidi or St. Jean.
Burdeau.r, see p. 41. The line diverges to the left I'rom that to
Bayonne and ascends the valley of the Garonne. — 8^/4 M. Begles ;
4'/aM. Villenare-d'Ornan; S'/aM. Cadaujac : 8^UM. St. Me'dard-
d' Eyrans. — 12 M. Beantiran.
From Beautiran a branch-line runs to (201/2 M.) Hastens (p. 56). The
chief intermediate station is (41/2 M.) La Brdde (HCtel du Grand- Montes-
quieu), a small town containing the chateau of Montesquieu (1685-1755).
64 /. Route 10. LA REOLE. From Bordeaux
a building of the 13-15th centuries. The study of the great author is kept
as it was in his lifetime.
13 M. Portets; 15 M. Arbanats : il^ioyi. Podensac : 18V a M.
Cerons. About 1 M. to the E. of the last station, on the right hank
of the Garonne, is the small town of Cadillac . still surrounded by
walls of the 14th cent, with fine gates. The Chateau d'Epernon at
Catillac. an edifice of the 16-lTth cent., has been converted into a
prison for women. — We now traverse a district famous for its
white wines, those of (21 M.) Barsac and (23 M.) Preignac being
specially esteemed. Sauternes (p. 52), which lends its name to the
whole class, is about 4 M. to the S.W. of the latter place.
26 M. Langon (TAon d'Or) . a town of 4726 inhab.. on the left
bank of the Garonne, with a suspension bridge, has a small harbour
at which the tide is perceptible.
Feom Lakgon to Bazas. 121/.t 31. , railway in 1/2-I hr. (fares 2 fr. 45,
1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 35 c). — 41/2 M. Roaillan. — About 2 M. to the N. of (71/2 M.)
Xizan is the Chateau de Roqueiaillade, built in the beginning of the 14th cent.,
with six towers and a keep more than 100 ft. high.
[Xizan is the junction of a branch -line to several industrial places,
including (41/2 M.) Villandraut, the birthplace of Pope Clement V. (Bertr.
de Goth; d. 1314), whose Chateau is still standing; and (11 M.) St. Sym-
phorien (junction of the line to Facture and Ares ; p. 56).]
121/2 31. Bazas (Cheral Blanc), a town with 5034 inhab.. on a rock
washed by the Beune, belonged to the ancient Va$ates. It played an im-
portant part in the Religious Wars, when it was the scene of e.tcesses
of all kinds committed both by Catholics and Protestants. Down to 1790
it was the seat of a' bishop. The Cathedral dates from the 13-16th centur-
ies. — The railway is to be extended from Bazas to Auch (p. 90).
The main line now crosses the Garonne by a bridge succeeded
by a long viaduct. 29 M. 8?. Macaire. a small town to the right, the
ancient Ligena. still possesses the remains of three lines of defence
of the middle ages, the principal feature being a gateway of the
I3th century. The handsome church of S^. Sauveur. in the Roman-
esque and Gothic styles (12-15th cent.), has transepts ending in
apses, and contains some ancient mural painting which have recently
suffered considerable injury. About 3 M. to the I>.W. is Verdelais.
with a pilgrims shrine of the Virgin. — 39 M. St. Pierre-d' Aurillac.
A little farther on the river is joined by the Canal Late'ral « la
Garonne. 120 M. long, which meets the Canal du Midi at Toulouse
(p. 72). — 32' 2 M. Caudrot: 35 M. Gironde. beyond which are
two short tunnels near La Reole.
38 M. La R^ole Grand Hotel/, a town of 4343 inhab.. on a
hill rising from the Garonne, was built in the 10th cent, round the
Benedictine abbey of Regula. The church of 5^. Pierre dates from
the 13-15th cent, and has a modern Romanesque steeple. The town
also contains the ruins of a Castle built by the English during their
rule: a Hotel de Ville of the 12-14th cent. ; several mediaeval houses ;
and the remains of the abbey (see above).
41' 2 M. Lamothe- Landeron : 45 M. Ste. Bazeille.
49 M. Marmande (Hot. des Meisageriei). a commercial and indus-
trial town on the Garonne, with 9891 inhab. and a church of the 12- loth
to Cette. AGEN. /. Boute 10. 65
centuries. It is the junction of a branch-line to (47 M.) Bergerac
(p. 121. — 55 M. F(ntf)ueiolte.'<.
60M. Tonneins Hut. del' Europe), a tobacco-manufacturing town
of 7643 inhab.. on the Garonne, formerly consisted of two towns,
which were destroyed in 162'2 by Louis XIII. on account of their
attachment to Protestantism. — 64'/2 M. Sicole. beyond which we
cross the Lot. not far from its confluence with the Garonne.
67 M. Aiguillon (Tapis Verti. the .lc<7jo of the Romans, situated
on the left bank of the Lot. contains 3160 inhab. and possesses the
ruins of a castle of the Dukes of that name, and a modern Gothic
ihurch.
72 M. Port-Ste. Marie (Hot. de I'EuropeK a small and ancient
town on the Garonne, with two Gothic churches of the 14th century.
Fbom Pokt-Ste. M.krie to Eaize (Riscle), 46M.. railway in 21/3-31/4 hrs.
(tares 9 fr. 20, 6 fr. 90. 5 t'r. 50 c). — The line crosses the Garonne.
33 4 M. FeugaroUef ; 61/431. Vianne , a small walled town; 8 >I. Lavard<ic,
a sinall industrial town on the Baiife, with a trade in cork.
12 M. N^rac (Hotel TertreJ, a commercial town of 7826 inhab. on the
Bayse. belonged to the Sires d'Albret from the 14th cent, onwards, and
was often the residence of the covirt of Navarre in the 16th cent., before
the accession of Henri IV. to the French throne. Taken and dismantled
by Louis XIII. on account of its Protestant sympathies, it has never re-
gained its former importance. Only a part of its loth cent. Chateau remains,
but the park -.till exists, forming the beautiful Promenade de la Garenne,
which contains various points of interest. — 19 31. Moncraheau.
25 31. Condom (Hotel du Lion-d'Or), a town with 7902 inhab., on the
Bayse, carrying on an important trade in Armagnac brandy. It was for-
merly the seat of a bishopric, which was held by Bossuet. The handsome
Gothic Cathedral, dating from i.506-2L is adjoined by remains of a cloister.
Several small stations are passed. — 46 31. Eauze (Hotel Soubeyran),
a town of 4225 inhab. on the Gelise. It is the modern representative of
Elusa , an important town in the time of C'sesar. which was completely
destroyed about A. D. 910. The old town was at La Ciutat (City), about
i/.j 31. distant, on a plateau above the right bank of the Gelise. and many
antiquities have been discovered on its site. Eauze has a fine Gothic
Church of the 16th centurv. — The railwav is to be extended to (28 31.)
Riscle (p. 50) via (lOi 2 31.) Xogaro.
76 M. Fourtic: 79 M. 67. Hilaire; 80»/, M. Colayrac. As we
approach Agen . we see to the right a flne aqueduct, carrying the
canal across the railway (see below).
84 M. Agen (Buffet: Hotel des Amhaisadeurs et de France,
Cours Voltaire 22: Grand-Hotel. Place du March^-au-Bl^ ; du Fetit
■St. Jean. Cours Voltaire 35. expensive; Jasmin . at the station) , a
town with 22,055 inhab.. the capital of the department of Lot-et-
(iaronne, and the seat of a bishop, lies on the right bank of the
Garonne. As the capital of the Nitiobriges , it was a place of im-
portance under the Gauls . and it afterwards became the chief city
of the Agenois. The executions of Albigenses and Huguenots form
bloody pages in its history. It was the birthplace of the philologist
Joseph Scaliger (1540-1609). and of the naturalist Lacepede (1756-
1825). It has a large trade in dried plums.
Most of the town is badly built . and the older streets are
narrow and inconvenient. A wide new street, however, has been
Baedeker. Southern France. -'J
66 /. Route 10. AGEN. From Bordeaux
constructed through tlie middle of the town, from E. to W. . and
this is to be crossed at right angles by another, beginning at the
station.
In front of the station is the Church of Ste. Foi (12th and 14th
cent.), the entrance to which is on the opposite side. It has a fine
modern Gothic tower. — A little farther on . bending to the right,
we reach the Catliedral of St. Caprais, with a fine apse and tran-
sept of the ll-12th cent., and a nave rebuilt in the 14-16th centuries.
The interior is richly decorated with polychrome paintings and
frescoes. Among the most noteworthy features are the left arm of
the transept and the huge piers which formerly supported a dome,
adorned with shafts ending in singular capitals. — The Rue St.
Caprais and the succeeding one lead from this church to the Market
J fall, a handsome modern building in the centre of the town.
The Boulevard de la R^publique (the new street commenced in
1885 ; see above) descends to a small square adorned with a bronze
Statue of Jasmin . author of several poems in the Agenais dialect
(1798-1864). The statue represents the poet, who was a barber by
profession and has been styled the 'Last of the Troubadours', in a
quaint French costume, and reciting the following verses, which
are inscribed on the pedestal: —
'O ma lenco, tout me zou dit, j O ma langue, tout me le (lit,
Plantarey uno estelo Je plaeerai une ^toile
A toun froun encrumit'. 1 A ton front rembruni.
In front of the Place Jasmin runs the wide Cours Voltaire, which
a little farther to the E. skirts the Promenade du Oravier , on the
bank of the Garonne, here crossed by a Suspension Bridge for foot-
passengers. Higher up is a Stone Bridge, while lower down is a
Canal Bridge or aqueduct, over which the Canal Lateral is car-
ried, and which also serves for foot-passengers. The last-mentioned
bridge is a fine specimen of engineering skill. On the same side,
to the right, not far from the Cours Voltaire, is the Church of St.
Hilaire, a building of the 15th cent., with a modern fayade and a
handsome moilern tower. The interior is adorned with polychrome
paintings and contains some good modern stained-glass windows and
a handsome stone organ-loft.
The Rue Londrade , the second in ascending the Boulevard do
la R^publique from the Place Jasmin, leads to the Eglise des Ja-
cobins, a brick building of the 13th cent., adorned with polychrome
paintings and modern stained-glass windows. — Hence we proceed
by the Rue du Pont- de- Garonne to the Hotel de Ville, adjoining
which is the Maison de Montluc , a building of the 16th cent.,
with a fine winding staircase. It contains the Municipal Museum.
The Museum, which is at present of little importance, is open to the
public on Sun. and Thurs. from 1 to 4 or 5 , and to strangers on other
days also. — On the ground-floor are Roman antiquities and sculptured
and architectural fragments, mosaics, small bronzes, etc. — The rooms
on the first floor contain paintings (most of them modern) , curiosities,
to Cette. MOISSAC. /. Uuute 10. (JT
and objects ol' natural history. Among tbe pictures may be mentioned
C'lytemnestra , by Toudouze ; Le Kabouteux, by Carteron: tbe Massacre i^>f
Macliecoul, by Flameng ; Enip. Henry IV. at Canossa, by Darant ; Battle-
iieUl in Lorraine, by Bettannier ; and tbe Valley of Pralognan . by J.
Desbrossef.
The Rue. Montesquieu, whicJi begins at the Market and is joined
by the streets which pass the Hotel de Ville. leads S. to the Pro-
menade fie In Plate-Forme, in wliicli stand the Prefecture . ori-
ginally the Bishop's Palace (18th cent.), the modern Palais de
Jnstire , and other large buildings. The Hue Palissy. to the right,
leads back to the Gravier (p. 66).
From Ag<n to Ptrigueti.i\ to Audi, and to Tarbes, see R. 11.
87 M. Bo)> -Enrontre . the station for the pilgrimage-resort of
that name, l^j^ M. to the N.E. , and the junction of the line to
Auch and Tarbes (p. 89). — 90 M. Sam-eferre-Osfende : 93 M. St.
Nicolas -de- la -Balerme : 97 M. La Mngistere ; 100 M. Valence-
d'Agen : 105 M. Malaui^e. The GaroTine is crossed by numerous
suspension-bridges, one of the finest of which, near Moissac. is pro-
longed by a viaduct, carrying the road over the railway.
Ill M. Moissac {Hotel du Nord. mediocre), a commercial town
■with 9232 inhab.. on the Canal Lateral and the right bank of the
Tar)), owes its existence to an ancient abbey, believed to have been
founded in the 7th century. To reach the interesting remains of
the abbey, which adjoin the hotel and consist of the church and
the cloisters, we turn to the left at the end of the avenue issuing
from the station.
The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, was rebuilt in the 15th cent,
but retains a magnificent, though somewhat mutilated *Portal of
the 12th century.
Tbe portal con.iists of a deeply recessed arcbway forming a kind of
porcli. The central pier is adorned with lions and statues of the Pro-
phets in high relief, while on the lateral piers are similar statues of
Isaiah and St. Peter, and sculptured bands of rats and birds. Tbe inner
walls of the porch are also lavishly embellished with groups of statues
(the Annunciation and tbe Visitation on the right: Avarice and Lu.xury
on the left) and bas-reliefs (Infancy of Our Lord, Dives and Lazarus). The
tympanum group represents Our Lord surrounded by the Elders of tbe
Apocalypse, with symbols of tbe Apostles and two Angels. Both statues
and reliefs are framed in bands of decorative sculpture, of great beauty
and delicacy, and at each side are three attached columns, the capitals
of which are adorned with griffins, arabesques, etc.
The chief objects of interest in the interior are the Renaissance screen
enclosing the sanctuary, the organ, and a Merovingian sarcophagus (below).
The *Cloiiiter, adjoining the church on the left, and entered from
the little Place in front of it (custodian), dates from 1100-1108 and
is one of the finest in France. Its arches, which are very slightly
pointed, rest alternately on single and clustered columns, the cap-
itals of which arc embellished with scenes explained by inscriptions.
Beyond Moissac the railway passes through two short tunnels,
beyond which we see on the right the church of St. Pierre (see above).
It then crosses the Tarn by a tubular bridge, and reaches
5*
68 I. Route 10. MONTAUBAN. From Bordeaux
lllj iM. Castelsarrasin (Hotel de l' Europe), a town with 7590 in-
habitants. The name has nothing to do with the Saracens, but is
supposed to be a corruption ofCastel-sur-Azin" or 'Castrum Cerru-
lium'. The church of St. Sauveur (12-15th cent.) is interesting;
the tower over tlie nave is modern.
Beyond (121 M.) La ViUedien the lines to Cahors and Limoges
(p. 70) diverse to the left.
128 M. Montauban (Buffet; Hotel de I' Europe, Place de I'Hor-
loge and Rue de THotel-de-Ville ; dii Midi, du Commerce , Place
d'Armes), a prosperous town with 29,863 iiihab. , the capital of the
department of Tarn-et-Gnvonne^ and the seat of a bishop, occupies
;i plateau on the right bank of the Tarn , the sides of which are
washed by two small affluents of that river.
Montauban was founded in 1144 by Alphonse I. , Count of Toulouse,
on the site of the Roman station of Mons Albanu.i. It embraced with ar-
dour the doctrines of the Albigenses, partly through hatred of the monks
of Le Moustier, which is now its N.E. suburb, and the Inquisition wrought
terrible havoc here, without, however, preventing the Reformation from
making such progress that the town was one of the chief strongholds of
the Huguenots. Louis XIII. failed in his attempt to capture the town in
1()21, but the struggle could not be continued after the fall of La Rochelle,
and the town, submitting to Richelieu in 1629, had its fortifications le-
velled. Even now it is partly Protestant, and it has a Faculty of Protest-
ant Theology.
The Gare du Midi lies about '/j M. from the centre of the town,
ill the suburb of Vi lie- Bourbon , and the Gare d'Orl^ans is still
farther oft', on the opposite side, in the suburb of Ville-'SoureUe,
but the two stations are connected by rail , and the trains which
arrive at the latter go on to the former.
Quitting the Gare du Midi, we cross the Tarn by a lofty brick
Ihidge, built iu 1303-16, with pointed arches; it was formerly forti-
tied. The water of the Tarn is even more turbid than the waters of
the Gers and the Gironde.
The Hotel de Ville , a brick building on the other side of the
bridge, is the old chateau, begun by the Counts of Toulouse, added
to by the Black Prince in the 14th cent., and finished by Bishop P.
de Berthier in the 17th century. The Municipal Museum, on the
first floor, is chiefly interesting because it contains the collections
;i> well as some paintings and souvenirs of Ingres, who was a native
of Montauban 1 1780-1867). It is open to the public on Sun. from
I to 4. and to strangers on other days also.
First Floor. — Room 1. Above the door, 34. Ingres, Dream of Ossian.
milinished : to the right, 259. J. Joitvenet, Descent from the Cross, a
smaller replica of the picture in the Louvre; 297. Stvrler (pupil of Ingres),
Procession of Cimabue's picttire of the Madonna; no number, Italian .School,
.\doration of the Magi, with the Ascension as predella ; 273. Mignard,
Portrait of a prince; copies o( Correggio, (linlio Romano, Titian, and Ingres.
— The glass-cases contain small antiquities, miniatures, medals, bron/.es,
drawings, etc. Busts in bronze. — Room II. To the right, 375. /'. Veronese,
Madonna and Child; 205. Rubens, The Thinker; 291. Rigainl , Portrait of
a man: 197. Kfl« Dyck , Portrait of a monk; 199. Jordaens, Silenus and
the lour Seasons; 319. French School, Portrait of a man: 192. Coello, Coro-
/« Cette. MONTALBAN. /. li'oule m. 61)
nalion of Charles V. ; 193. After Murillo, Meditation of St. Augustiue ; 36').
Von Calcar, Portrait of a man : 202. Poiirbii.^ ike Elde)\ Portrait of a woman :
364. Bellini, Circumcision: 341. Albani, Allegory: 226. Bon Boiillogiie, St. Ni-
cholas. — *44. Ingres, Jesus among the Doctors in the Temple; 178. After
Titian, Venus ci-owned by Cupid; 200. Jordaens, Head of a faun; 363. Bas-
sano. Country scene: 50. Poiisfin, Landscape ; 193 (I). Mtirillo (?), Singing les-
son: 362. Salrator Rosa, Guard-hou.se; 204. Poiirbiis the Elder, Portrait of
a man: 267. Lenain, Beggars. — IIooM III., the first room of the Mtisee
liiyres. In the middle is the easel of the artist, with an unfinished picture.
To the right of the door. 182. P. Veronese, Head of a woman: 4. Velaztpier,
Portrait of a woman: 124. Unknown Master, Head of Christ: 109. Giottino,
Triptych; 41. Ingres, Ruggiero delivering .\ngelica, a variation on that in the
Louvre: 191. Byzantine School, Ten Saints: 1. Holbein the Younger, Por-
trait of a monk; 138. (I- Poitssin, Landscape: 9. Phil, de Champaigne, Monk
ferforming the operation of trepanning ; 21. II. Flandrin, Portrait of Ingres;
18, 116. 117. Unknoum Artists of the 13th cent.. Saints, Christ; 16. Chardin,
Dead game: 10. Pourhiis the Younger, Portrait of a man. This room also
contains several copies, small antitjuities. a glass-case with souvenirs of
Ingres, and a mantelpiece with sculptures by the father of the painter
Ingres. — Rooms IV., V., VI. contain an important collection of drawings
.(many of them copies by Ingres himself), antiquities, casts, pictures
(15. Portrait of Moliere , attributed to Seb. Bourdon: copies of Raphael),
sculptures (Cupid bending his bow. attributed to Prajriteles), bronzes, etc.
The ceilings of the 4th and 5th room deserve notice. — Room VII. con-
tains recent ac<iuisitions of the Museum, including a St. Jerome by Lan-
Jranco : a Pilgrim, attributed to Caravaggio ; the Scribe, by a painter i)f
the Flemish School ; a St. Jerome by Gotardus (German School): a Doge and
his wife, attributed to P. Veronese; Judith, attributed to Vasari : 'La Vol-
uptueuse' by Boucher; and, lastly, an Odalisque and other works by
Cainbon, the donor of the last-mentioned pictures.
The Basement contains a Museum of Antiquities and Objects of Art of
the Middle .\ges and the Renaissance.
Opposite the Hotel ile Ville stands the Exchanye . containing a
Museum of Natural History (on the second floor; open on Sun..
1 to 4).
The Rue de illotel-de-Viile leads towartis the Place d'Arnies
and the cathedral (see below). In the meantime, however, we turn
to the right and proceed to the Church of St. Jacques, a hrick
buililing in the Gothic style of Toulouse (see p. 74). with an octa-
gonal tower. The pulpit and the fine modern stained-glass win-
dows are noteworthy. — A little farther to the left, beyond St.
Jacques, is the I'lace iSationale. bordered by double arcades and
with gates at the corners (17th cent.).
In the Place d'Armes (see above), which we reach by turning to
the right on the other side of the Place Nationale. stands the Cnfhe-
drul . a commonplace building of the 18th cent., but containing a
fine painting by Iiigre>< (in the sacristy), representing the Vow of
Louis XIII. — A little farther on, to the left, is the Prefecture, a
modern edifice in stone and brick.
The Promenade des Acacias, to the right, on this side of the
Prefecture, in front of a convent, leads to the Promenade des Carmen.
at the end of which stands the Monument to Ingres, by Etex. It
consists mainly of a bas-relief in bronze, reproducing the picture
of the Apotheosis of Homer, with some modifications by Ingres
himself, and of a marble statue of the artist seated in front of his
70 /. Route 10. TOULOUSE. From Bovdeaux
work. In flear weather the Pyrenees are visible from this point.
At the beginning of the promenade is the entrance to the Jardin
de$ Plantes (25 c.) which occupies the slope on the right bank of
tlie Tesrou. an affluent of the Tarn , and also part of the left bank
in the subnrb of Sapinc. — The church of Sapiac, which is reached
by the street descending at the end of the promenade, possesses a
i^econd-rate picture by Ingres, representing Ste. Germaine (second
chapel on the right).
From Montauban to lexos (Limoges line), see p. 94.
From Montauban to Cahoks, 40 M., railway in 2-21/2 hrs. (fares 7 Ir. 85,
5 fr. 90, 4 fr. 30 c). The trains start from the Ville-Bourbon station. This
railway, which is to form part of the direct line from Paris to Toulouse
viil Limoges, Brive, and Cahors (see p. 88), crosses the Tarn and diverges
to the left from the line to Lexos. — 5 JI. Fonneuve ; 8 JL Albias , where
the Aveyron is crossed; 11 JI. R^alville. — 15 31. Caussade, to the right, a.
town with 4040 inhab., was one of the Huguenot strongholds in the Ibth
century. It is dominated by the tine steeple of its 14(h cent, church.
Beyond Caussade we cross a large viaduct. — 18 M. Borredon , beyond
which is a tunnel more than (iOO yds. in length. — 231/0 31. Montpezat,
a small town about 3 JI. to the S. \V. (diligence), possessing a fine church
of the 13th cent., rich in works of art of the 14-16th centuries. — 281/2 31.
Lalbeiique. The country now becomes picturesque as we draw near the
mountains. Several small valleys are crossed, with many embankments
and tunnels. — 3131. Cieurac, beyond which are a tunnel 1000 yds. long,
a lofty curved viaduct, and several cuttings in the rock. — Beyond (36 31.)
•Hept-Fonds we traverse another long viaduct describing a curve. We then
cross the Lot and skirt the left side of the Pont- Valentre (p. 88). —
40 31. Cahovs (p. 88).
Fkoji 3I0NTAUBAN TO Castres, Gil/a 31. , an uninteresting line ascend-
ing the valley of the Tarn. — I51/2 31. Villemiir, a town with 4080 inhabi-
tants. 27 31. St. Sidpice, see p. 95. 361/2 M. lavaur {Hutel Viinenent), with
6163 inhab., on the Agout, was a stronghold of the Albigenses, sacked l)y
Simon de 3Iontfort in 1211. It was formerly the seat of a bishop and
lias an old cathedral of tlie 13th century. — 6II/2 M. Castres, see p. 79.
The railway now returns to the side of the Canal Lati^ral, leaving
on the left the line to St. Sulpice (see above), and passes through a
fertile but uninteresting district. — 135 M. Montbartier ; JSOVa M.
Dieupentale; 143 M. Grisolles; 146 M. C'astclndu-d'Estretefunds ;
150 i\I. St. Jory ; 155 M. Laconrtensowrt , where we Join the Paris
line (R. 12; to the left). — 159 M. Toulouse (Gare Matabiau).
Toulouse, — Railway Stations. Gare Matabiau (PI. F, 1,2; Bullet),
Ihi- ci;ntral station on the- N. E. side of the town; Gare .St. Cypriea (PI. A, 5),
to the S.W. , about I1/4 31. from the stone bridge over tlie Garonne, for
tlie line tor Auch (p. i,0). — There are no hotel-omnibuses at the stations,
but the trains are met by railway-omnibuses (25 c. for each pers. and for
rach trunk) and cabs (see below).
Hotels. "HoTKi. TivoLMER, Rue d'Alsace-Lorraine, 17 and 19 (PI. K,3)v
a large house of the first class; Du 3Iiui, Souville, and des Etats-IInIs,
all three in the Place du Capitole (PI. E, 3); de l'El'ropk, Capoul, Square
Lafayette, 16 and 12 (Pl.K, 3); de la Postk (3Iaison Meublee), Rue d'Al-
.sace-Lorraine 38, near the Place du Capitole, a house of the first class but
inexpensive; — Domeroue, Rue des Balances 33 (PI. B, 3); de Paris, Rue
des Balances 66, near the Place du Capitole; du Grand-Balcon, Rue des
Lois and Rue Roniiguieres (PI. I), 3); Grand - Hotel Centkal , Rue St.
Pantaleon 25, behind the Hotel Tivollier; Hotel 3Ieurlk, Rue Neuve-St.
Aubin 5, R. 2 fr. ; Grand-Hotel Ciiauuard or du Buffet, opposite the
station. R. 2i'.7fr.. I). 3 fr. ; good restaurant.
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AVa^er ^t Ilebes, Le-ipzif;'
to Cette. TOULOUSE. I. Route 10. 71
Restaurants, Tirollier, see above; Albright, Avenue Lafayette 13; at the
principal ealcs in the Place du Capitole (see below); Tortoni, Allee La-
layette and Kmilevard St. Aubin, dej. 2, D. 3 fr. ; NOtel Chauhard; Buffet at
the Gare JIatabiau. — A speciality of Toulouse and other towns in S. France
is Pate's de Foles de Canard aux Trulfes (pies of duck's liver with truffles),
and they are also famous for their ortolans, musliroonis. and fruits.
Gaf68. Tivolliei\ see above; Caf^ de la Paijc, Bibent, Divan, etc., Place du
Capitole ; Grand Cafi Americain, Avenue Lafayette and Boulevard St. Aubin.
Cabs (Ciiadines). One horse: per drive within the town 90 e. by day,
13/4 t'r. after midnight, per hr. ll/.j and 21/.i fr. Two horses: per drive
1 fr. 10 c. and 2 fr., per hr. 1 fr. 80 c. and 3 fr. Each package of luggage 20 c.
Tramways. From the Place du Capitole to St. Michel (S. E. suburb),
to St. ('vprien. to the Gare JIatabiau, to the Jlinimes (N. suburb), to the
Grand-Rond (P1.F,4, 5), to St. Etienne. to the Embouchure (PI. A, 1) , to
Les Amidonniers (PI. 15,2), to JXatabiau. to the cemetery of Terre-Cabade,
and to the Gare St. Cyprien. From the Avenue Lafayette to St. Michel
and to Les Amidonniers by the boulevards. From the Gare Matabiau to
thf Marche-Couvert (Pl.E, 4). Fare 10 c. ; 'correspondance' o e.
Post Office (Pl.D, 3), Rue Ste. Ursule 13. — Telegraph Office, Kue
d Alsace-Lorraine 28, behind the Capitole.
Theatres. Theatre du Capitole, at the Capitole (Pl.E, 3), for operas and
comedies (tickets 75 c. to o fr.); TMdtre des I'artei^^ (PI. E, 2), Cours Lafay-
ette, for dramas and operettas (75 c. to 31/2 fr.) ; Casino, Rue Dutemps and
Place Lafayette.
Caf6 - Concert. Pre-Catelan, Allee Lafayette 64. near the Canal (land
li/.j fr.).
'Music. At the AlUes Lafayette (PI. F, 2; p. 72) and the Grand- Rond
(PI. F, 5; p. 76) on Sun. and Thurs. ; in the Place du Capito'e (PI. B , 3;
p. 73) on Thurs. ; and at the Cours Dillon (PI. C, D, 4, 5) on Sunday.
Baths. Dutemps, Place Lafayette 1 and 2; at the Hutel Souville and
th»; llOtel du Buffet: River Baths ,' (^xi&i Tounis (PI. D, 4, 5).
Protestant Church, Rue Ueville (PI. D, 3). — Synagogue, Rue Pala-
prat 200 (PI. F, 3).
This town still maintains night watchmen who cry the hours.
Tuidoiue (460 ft.), the ancient capital of Langiiedoc, the present
capital of the department of the Jlaute-darunne, the headquarters of
the 17th Corps tl'Armee, and the seat of an Archbishopric, a Uni-
versity, and a School of Medicine, is a city with 147,617 inhab.,
situated in a fertile plain on the right bank of tlie Garonne, at the
junction of the Canal du Midi with the Canal Lateral (pp. 72 and
64). It is a large and wealthy town, enjoying great importance
from its position as the centre of Southern France, and from the extent
of its industry and commerce. The greater part of it, however, is
irregularly laid out and meanly built, while its badly paved streets
combine with its excessive heat in summer and the violent winds
to which it is subject all tlie year round to make it a fatiguing
place for tlie visitor. Considerable improvements and embellish-
ments have, however, been undertaken and partly executed of late
years, and the town has a character of its own and a sufficiency
of historic remains to recommend it to the notice of strangers.
Toulouse, the ancient Tolosa , was an important town some cen-
turies before it was conquered by the Romans. It was the capital of
the Tectosages and possessed a temple which was celebrated for its im-
mense treasures, partly stored in sacred tanks. Having allied itself
with the Cimbri to shake off the Roman yoke it was taken , in B.
C. 1(X), by the consul Quintus Servilius Capio. who seized the treasures
of the temple. Cn-pio was, it is true, utterly routed by the Cimbri
72 /. Route 10. TOULOUSE. From Bordeaux
ill the following year, but he was succeeded by Marius , and Touloust-
was reduced to submission. In 419, after the fall of the JRonian empire,
Toulouse became the capital of the Visigoths, and in 507 it passed into
the power of the Franks, after Clovis had vanquished Alaric II. at
Vouilk". Subsequently it recovered its independence, and in 778 it wa.s
made a county governed by hereditary princes till it was united to
France in 1271. Under its Counts the city enjoyed a long period of pros-
perity, but the Albigensian wars brought upon it great calamities. Count
Kaymond VI., too tolerant in the eyes of those who had ,iust instituted
the Inquisition, and accused of the assassination of the Papal Legate,
Peter de Castelnau , tried to save the town by a most humiliating sub-
mission, but had notwithstanding to see it besieged by Simon de Mont-
fort, leader of the crusade, to whom his dominions had been adjudged.
Kavniond successfully defended the town on the first attack, but he was
dispossessed of it in" 1214, after the battle of Muret (p. 115). Toulouse
did not, however, tamely accept the rule of De Montfort, and till 122!)
its history was little more than a succession of revolts and sieges. On tln'
succession of Louis VIII.. King of France , to the claims of Amaury de
Montfort, son of SiuKju , Raymond VII. had finally to submit, and the
Inquisition extinguished with the utmost cruelty what was left of heresy.
Thereafter the town became so oblivious of the principles it had si>
bravely defended that it repeatedly made itself notorious by violent acts
of intolerance. Thus in 1562 a civil war broke out between the Roman
Catholics and the Huguenots, and 4000 of the latter perished, while 30O
more were massacred on St. Bartholomew's Day in 1572. Dr. Panini
accused of Pantheism, was burnt alive here in 1619, after having his
tongue cut out, and an aged Protestant, Jean Galas, unjustly accused of
murdering his eldest son in order to prevent his becoming a Roman
Catholic, was broken on the wheel in 1762. The genernus exertion of Voltaire
in behalf of the last-named victim is one of the brightest gems in the great
author's crown. In 1815 General Ramel , confidant of Louis XVIII., was
assassinated here by the Verdets, volunteers more royalist than the kiny
himself. In 1862 the authorities had to interfere to prevent a festal cele-
bration of the tercentenary of the massacres of 1562. — In 1814 the final
battle of the Peninsular \Var took place at Toulouse between Welling-
ton and Soult, some days after Napoleon's abdication.
The Gare Matabiau or Gare Centrale (p. 70), which has be-
tonie too small for the traffic, lies to the N.E. of the town. On
quitting it we cros.s the Canal dit Midi, turn to the left, and soon
reach the Alle'en Lafayette (Pl.F, 2). At the beginning is a marble
Statue of Riquet . the creator of the Canal du Midi, by Riffonl-
Dorval, erected in 1838.
The Canal du Midi or du Languedoc was made in 1666-81 by Paul Hi-
<|uet de Beziers entirely at his own expense (17 million francs, wliieb
would to-day represent a sum of 34 million francs, or about 1,360,000 i.).
It connects the Atlantic and the Mediterranean with tbe aid of the Ga-
ronne. It begins a little below Toulouse and ends at the Etang de Thau,
beyond Agde (p. 8^), after a course of 148 M. It is 33 ft. wide at the
bottom and 65 ft. at the surface and its depth is 61/2 ft- Its highest point
is 8 M. to the N.W. of Castelnaudary (p. 79), and it has 100 locks, 26 011
the side of the Garonne, with a fall of 200 ft. , and 74 on the other side,
with a fall of 425 ft. It is fringed by a double row of trees, those on the
side next the Mediterranean being cypresses, as those trees are particularly
fitted to mitigate the Mistral, which often blows on this side. The Canal
Lateral, not finished till 1838, was made in consequence of the obstacles
to navigation presented by the Garonne in its upper course. The Canal
du Languedoc was at one time regarded as a perfect marvel of engineering
.skill; but lately it has been proposed to replace it by a ship-canal.
On the other side of the canal and the railway stands a hug*;
edifice containing the Veterinary College (PI. F. G, 1), one of the
to Cette. TOULOUSE. /. Roxte 10. To
three veterinary colleges which exist in France, the other two beinji
at Alfort (near Paris) and at Lyons. It is not interesting except to
professional men. Beyond it stands the Observatory (PI. G, 1 ; not
accessible to the public), adjoining which is a brick Obelisk, erec-
ted in commemoration of the Battle of Toulouse, which was fougiit
on April 10. 1814 (p. 72). In clear weather the Pyrenees may be seen
from this point.
.\t the entl of the Alle'es Lafa\ette, tiie Boulevards, which form a
ling round the town proper, diverge to the right and left. Crossing
tiiese we next reach an oval Place called the Square Lafayette.
^^ hence the line Lafayette leads to the Place uu Capitole (PI. E.iV).
the centre of the town. On the E. this F'lace is bounded by the Ca-
■pitole. or Hotel de Ville. a building of the 16-19th cent, with an
Ionic fa<;ade . recently restored. Its name is due to the magi-
strates of the town before 1789. who were called 'Capitouls". In the
ti st court, which has a fine Renaissance doorway, by Bachelier, with
ji statue of Henri IV. Duke Henry II. de Montmorency. Marshal
an<l Governor of Languedoc. was beheaded in 1632. He had shared
the revolt of the Duke of Orleans against Richelieu because the title
of High Constable was refused to him. Visitors are shown the sword
with which he was executed. The Capitol is also the seat of the
Academic des .leux-Floraux.
The Academie des Jeii.v-Floraui., perhaps the oldest literary Institutiiiii
in Europe, was t'oimded in 1323-27, under the name of the 'College du
(lay S<javoir\ and observed the custom of distributing flowers of gold
and silver to its laureates. Cle'mence Isaure, a noble dame of Toulouse,
left a legacy at the end of the 15th cent., which enabled it to increase the
number of these (lowers, and the Flower Fete is held every year with
great solemnity on May 3rd. The flowers distributed are nine in number;
the amaranth of gold , the violet . marigold, primrose, and lily of silver,
all for poetry; the eglantine, immortelle and jasmine of gold, for prose
compositions, and the carnation of silver, a 'consolation prize'. ^ The
Academy consists of 40 'Mainteneurs' and an indefinite number of 'Maitres-
es-Jeux'.
The Capitole is also the seat of an Academy of Science, Inscriptions, and
BeHes-Lettres, founded in 1640, and of an Academy of Legislation , dating
from 1851. The town numbers many other learned societies.
To the S. of the Capitole is the The'afre Municipal du Capitole
(p. 71), and behind the two buildings lies a small square. This
square abuts on the Hue d' Alsace-Lorraine, a handsome new street.
which runs straight across the greater part of the town from N. to
8.. and contains the Musee (p. 77).
In the meantime, however, we proceed to the N. from the Place
du Capitole. following the Rue du Taur. which owes its name to
the Eglise dn Taur (PI. K, 2: to the right), built on the spot to
which St. Saturnin. the apostle of Toulouse, was dragged by the
bull which he had refused to sacrifice to Jupiter. It is a building
of the 14-ir)th cent, and possesses a fa(^ade with triangular arches
and battlements. The interior contains some modern paintings.
The church of *St. Sernin. or St. Sntnrnin (PI. D.2). at the end
of this street , is the chief monument of Toulouse and one of the
74 /. lioKte 10. TOULOUSE. From Bordeaux
finest Romanesque churches in existence. The choir was begun at
the end of the 11th cent., and the building was extended westwards
in the 12- 13th cent., the great W. portal remaining unfinished. A
thorough restoration has lately taken place under the direction of
Viollet-h*-Uuc (d. 1877*. The church is cruciform and has a nave
with double aisles. It is 330 ft. long, aud 104 ft. wide; the transept
is 210 ft. across; and the nave is 70 ft. high. The *Apse is flanked
by five semi-circular chapels, and each arm of the transept has two
similar chapels adjoining its E. side. These chapels group pictur-
esquely with the apse, the choir, and the transept, and above the
crossing rises a fine octagonal *Tower, of later date, |with five tiers
of triangular arches in the Tolosan style and terminated by a
gallery and a spire, 210 ft. above the eround. An Outer Porch of the
16th cent., by Bachelier. stands in front of the S. transept-porch,
facing the Kue du Taur. This portal and the one on the N. are both
more interesting than the unfinished Gothic portal at the W. end of
the church. — The interior is of large dimensions for a Romanesque
church. Under the choir is a crypt containing the relics of six
Apostles, St. Saturnin and three of his successors, aiul several other
saints, whose names are inscribed on two marble slabs on the stairs.
In the second chapel of the N. transept is a singular Byzantine
figure of Christ, on a colossal scale, and the aisle of the same tran-
sept contains a votive offering of 1528, representing the church as it
then was surrounded by defensive works. The 16th cent, stalls also
deserve attention; on one of them is a pig in a pulpit, intended to
represent Calvin preaching. Behind the choir are some interesting
bas-reliefs of the 12th cent, aiul a Holy Family attributed to Cor-
reggio. The sacristy contains two magnificent mediaeval copes.
The organ is a fine modern instrument.
Returning to the Place du Capitole and following the Rue
Romiguieres towards the W., we pass, at the corner of the Rue De-
ville, the Protestant Church (P1.D,3) , some paces to the right of
which, in the Rue Deville. are the remains of the Eglise des Cor-
deliers, a building of the 14th cent., burned down in 1871.
To the left, opposite the Protestant church, begins the Rue La-
kanal in which stands the Lyc^e. The Church of the Jacobins (PI.
D.3), which is attached to the Lyc^e , is a tasteful building of the
13- 14th cent. . chiefly noticeable for its 13th cent, brick tower,
which, however, has lost its spire. This is a typical Tolosan tower,
with triangular arches. - The Lycte iPl. D,3,) occupies a part of
the large building at the end of the street, originally the house of
Bernuy , the Spanish merchant who guaranteed the ransom of
Francis I. ^2,000, 000 fr.) after his capture at the battle of Pavia
llo2o). It has fine details in the Renaissance style. h\ the same
building, on the side next the Rue des Balances, is the Toivn Li-
brary, containing 70,000 vols (open daily, except .Mon. morning,
9-11 and 1-0; closeil .\ug. loth to Oct. loth).
to Cettt. TOULUUSK. /. Route, 10. 75
The line Lakaiial joins the Kuii Gaiiibctta , t'ollowLiin \vlii(;li to
the right, and again turning to the riglit wo reach La Daurade
ifM.D,3) a church rebuilt between 1704 and 1810, whicli owes its
name ('doree' , Lat. de aurata) to the richness of its original de-
corations. The present edifice, whicii is partly shut in by houses,
is of no architect<iral merit. The usual entrance is by the side-
doors in the Rue de la Daurade or on the ^uai (No. 1). The choir
is de<-,orat(Ml with scenes from the life of the Virgin, painted by
Ifoques the Kl<ler. Cl^mence Isaure (p. 73) is said to be buried
beside the high -altar. The flowers destined for the successful
landidates in the Jeux-Floraux (p. 73) are blessed here on 3rd May.
A little above the somewhat dull quay on which the Daurade
stands the Garonne is crossed by the Pont-Seiif (P1.D,4), a fine
vtone bridge of seven arches, built in 1043-16*20 by Nic. IJachelier
and his son. The roadway was lowered in IS67.
Tlie tlaronnt:. Ircsli froiii its source in the I'yrcnci's and .-.till retain-
in!; uiiicli iif tlif impetuosity of a Diountain torrent, lias oticn bi^en very
destructive to the town of Toulouse. One of the most terrihle Hoods, of
which the, marks are still visible, was that of 23-27th June, 1875. The
suspension-bridges of St. Michel ami St. I'ierre (above and below the Pont-
NeufJ were can-ied away , and the wliole of the suburb of .St. Cyprien,
on the other bank, inundated and destroyed. The waters rose 28ft.
above low-water mark , and more than 300 people are said to have
perislied.
On the Garonne within the town are two extensive mills, each havin;;
34 uiill- stones. HeUnv the Pont St. Michel, at the end of the He de
Tounis, is the Moulin tin Chateau, so called because it belonged to a cha-
teau now replaced by the Palais de .lustici- (p. 76j. It is mentioned
as early as 1182. The" other , the Moulin <lu Uazacle , founded in the 9lli
cent., is below the Pont .St. Pierre ami may be visited by permission.
Its weir dates in part from 1719. Farther down are several other indus-
trial establislimenls. wliicb make use of the mill-lead. — Close at hand,
on the ri{;ht bank, is a Toliacco Manu/actory , which gives occupation to
noire than 12(X) pi'rsons. - From the N. side of the river, near the
last-named mill, issues the small Canal de ISiienne, which unites with
the Canal du Midi and the Canal Lateral at their junction, in the Hassin
de V Einhoucluire , at the W. end of the Kauboursr St. Pierre.
The vast pile of buiMiiigs to the right, on the other side of the
I'ont-iNeuf. in the Fauiionrg .St. C>prien, is the IIott'l-Dien St.Jac-
i/nes (P1.D,4), foundefl in the middle of the r2th c«!nt. , but repeat-
edly rebuilt since then. — Farther down is the Iloipire St. Josejili
ilv Id (tidve (PI. C",3), with a dome-covered chapel. On the left, near
the llotel-Dieu, stanils the old (Jliafrtiu d' Knit, whose tower, 90 ft.
in height, together with the new one near it, abundantly supplies
the town with water from the Garonne, puritled by un<lergrotiiid
niters in the meadow between the (iaronne anil the Cours Dillon.
To the v.. of the Pont-Neuf is the Pla.;e du Pont (Pl.D, E,4)
whence the Kue de Met/ (still uiiHnisheil) runs across the town iii
the direction of St. Etienne (p. 77), intersecting the Kue d'Alsace-
l.orraine. On the left, as we enter it, at the end of a short cross-
street, is the Hotel, d' .{.i.-ie'zat , a building of the iOth cent, with
an interesting <'ourt, but unfortunately very dilapidated.
TG 1. Route 10. TOULOUSE. F,om Bordeaux
To the S. of the Place du Pout we follow the Rue des Coiitellers.
which leads to La Dalbade or the church of J^otre - Dame - la-
Blanche (P1.D,E.4). rebuilt in the middle of the 15th century. It
has a fine square tower and an elegant portal of the Renaissance. b>
Nic. Bachelier . with a modern tympanum in enamelled terracotta,
representing the Coronation of the Virgin, after Fra Angelico. The
interior, consisting of a nave ^Nithout aisles, is distinguished by its
bold proportions.
A little farther on to the right, in the Rue de la Dalbade (No. 25).
is the Maison de Pierre or Hotel de Clary, a fine mansion of the
early part of the 17th cent., lately restored. Next come, on the
right the Hotel FeZ2/Hs(No.32), onthe left the Hotel St. Jean (^o. 32).
houses of the 16th and 17th centuries. A street to the left leads
to the Place des Carmes, w here we see on the opposite side, at the
beginning of the Rue du Yieux-Raisin , another fine Renaissance
building, the Hotel La><borde,^ or de Fleyres:. which is considered
the masterpiece of Nic. Bachelier (1515).
The Rue du Vieux-Raisin descends to the S.W. to the Place du.
Salin (PI. E, 5). a small triangular Place where the autos-da-fe of
the Inquisition took place. Adjacent, to the W., in an unpreten-
tious house occupied by some nuns, is the Chapelle de l' Inquisition.
open to visitors, but no longer containing any relics of the Holy
Office.
A little lower down is the Palais de Justice (PI. E, 5). the oiil
Palais duParlement. a plain building, containing some richly de-
corated rooms. — To the N. rises a statue of Cujas (1520-90), the
i'elebrated jurist, a native of Toulouse, in bronze by Valois (1850).
To the .S. of the Palais is the Alle'e St. Michel, near the end of
which, on the right, is an ornamental portal of eight marble columns
forming the entrance of the Jardin des Plantes (PI. F, 5), one of
the finest promenades in Toulouse. The modest building to the
right is the seat of the Faculty of Medicine, and contains a Museum
of Natural History, founded in 1864 (open on Sun. and Thurs.. 1-5
in summer. 1-4 in winter).
Nearly opposite the entrance to the Jardin des Plantes is the
Jardin lioyal (Pl.F, 5), which adjoins another promenade, the
Grand-Iiond or Boulinfpiu (bowling-green), the centre of five di-
verging avenues. We proceed through the short avenue to the left,
and then through the Rue Ninau, and the Rue Ste. Scarbes. to the
Cathedral of St. Etienne (P1.F,4\ This church, which is parth
concealed by the adjoining houses, consists of three distinct aTid
somewhat inharmonious parts. The W. Front, flanked on the left
by a huge square tower, and now much mutilated, dates from the
15- 16lh century. It has taken the place of an earlier fagade. the
rose-window of which (13th cent.) has been retained, thoiigh its
position is no longer central with regard to the main doorway. The
Nare. which is the oldest part, is a wide arid rather low structure
to Cette. T0T:L(3USE. /. Ihmte 10. 77
<if the first halt' of the 13th cent., without aisles. It is evident that
it was meant to be rebuilt after the completion of the Choir, which
was taken in hand in 1272 on a larger scale and with a different
axis. The work went on till the 16th cent, when so many churches
were left nnflnished. The choir is a liandsome and imposing struc-
ture with aisles, though it was partly spoiled in the 17th cent,
when restored after a fire. It is surrounded with seventeen chapels
and is adorned with stained-glass windows of the 15-17th centuries.
The metal screens and the stalls are noteworthy. Above the high-
altar is a Stoning of St. Stephen in marble and stucco, by Gervais
Urouet (1070). The walls of the nave are hung with paintings of
little value.
The Rue St. Etienne. in front of the Cathedral, takes us back to
The Rue d'Alsace-Lorraine. where we turn to the right.
The Mus^e iPl. E. 3). the enlargement of which has been going
on for some years, occupies an old Augustine convent, of which
some interesting features remain, and a new and massive brick build-
ing of doubtful taste, on the side next the Rue d'Alsace-Lorraine.
Founded in 1742. this Musee is one of the fullest and most inter-
esting provincial collections in France, particularly rich in anti-
quities and pi(;tures. It is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.
from noon till o in summer and till 4 in winter, and to strangers
on other days also. The entrance is on the N. side, in the Rue du
Musee. whence we first reach a Smalt Cloister in the Renaissance
-tyle (1626). containing some fine bas-reliefs and other works of
art of the period. To the right is the * Large Cloister, a picturesque
structure of the 14th cent., the trefoil arches of which, supported
by double columns, recall the Moorish style. This cloister contains
a large portion of the collection of antiquities, while the paintings
occupy the old convent church. As the arrangement of the various
parts of the Museum is only temporary, we content ourselves here
with a brief summary of the chief objects of interest.
The Kuseum of Antiquities consists mainly of objects found in ex-
cavations in Toulouse itself, or at Martres- Tolosane (p. 115) and other
places in the environs. In the chiet cloister and in a tasteful 15th cent,
i-hapel, parallel to one of its galleries, are a series of votive altars dedi-
cated to tile divinities of the Pyrenees, some anticjue, mediseval, and
Renaissance sculptures, inscriptions , and casts. On the lirst floor are a
valuable and nearly complete collection of busts of Roman emperors . a
line head of Venus, etc.. and in another part of the same floor are mosaics,
statuettes, bron/es . vases, terracottas, medals, and other small objects.
The Picture Gallery contains nearly 400 paintings, which are all fur-
nished with names. The following are the most noteworthy works. It.\li.\n
.Sciiooi.; •!. liaroccio, Holy Family: 2. Bellotto, TheRialto; 5. Cararaggio,
Martyrdom of .St. .\ndrew: Guercinn, 23. Martyrs. 24. Patron saints of Modena.
25. Oniiio Re/ii, .\pr>llo flaying Marsyas; '36. Perugino, St. .John the Evan-
gelist and St. .\ugustine ; •37. Procacnni, Mystic marriage of St. Catherine;
.^. Raphael (0, perhaps Giidio Romano, Head of a woman; 44. Salr. Rosa (f),
Neptune threatening the winds: 45. Solimena , Portrait of a woman; 48.
lotJint, Madonna and Child, with saints: 52, 53, 55. Unknown Masters, Ma-
rlonna, the Saviour. Holy Family (15-16th cents.;. — Spakisu Schoot. : '-da.
.yfnriUh, St. Diego at prayer. — Flemish .\ni) Dutch Schools: 82. G. de
78 /. lionfe 10. TOULOUSE. From Bordeaux
draper. Job; 83. A. ran Dt/ck, Miracle performed at Toulouse by St. Anthony
of Padua (at his command an ass falls on its knees before the Holy Sacra-
ment rather than eat the oats that are presented to it, although it has
heen three days without food), a copy of a picture in the Museum of Lille :
S4. Van Dt/ck, Clirist with angels; 103. G. de Lairesfe , Crucifixion; 10.5. Van
der Meulen, Louis XIV. before Cambrai ; '"'106. Mierereli, Portrait ; 112. Rubenf,
Christ between the two thieves, unfinished: 116. Seghers, Adoration of the
Magi; 121. Verelat, Head of an old man : "122. Uiiknowti .J/asfer (15th cent.).
St. John the Baptist, triptych; *123. Unknoicn Master (16th cent.). Descent
from the Cross. — French School: Phil, de Champaigne , 145. The Virgin
and the Souls in Purgatory, 146. Descent from the Cross, 147. Crucifixion,
148. Annunciation, 149. Louis XIII. bestowing the Order of the Holy Ghost.
Jouvenei, 152. Foundation of a town by the Tectosages, 153. Descent from
the Cross. 157. La/osse , Presentation of the Virgin; 161-163. Largillikre,
Portraits, the first of the artist himself; 165. Lesueur, Sacrifice of Manoah :
166. Mignard, Ecce Homo; 184. Nic. Pozissin, John the Baptist; 189. Rigaiid,
Racine; 196. Valentin, Judith; 209. Auhin Voitet , Deliverance of St. Peter;
232. Chalette, The 'Capitouls' (p. 73) on their knees before the Saviour;
235. Tournier (of Toulouse) , Descent from the Cross; 261. Rivalz , Foun-
dation of Ancyra by the Tectosages; 256. De Troy, Joseph's Dream:
241. /'. Gup, Presentation in the Temple: 258. J- Michel, The Marriage in
Cana; 278. Snhlerjras , St. Joseph and the Infant Jesus; 313. Brascassat,
The Sorceress; 316. Couture, The thirst for gold; 317. Eug!-ne Delacroix,
Muley-Abd-er-Rahman , emperor of Morocco ; 320. Dnveau , Deposition of
the Doge Foscari (1457); 327. Girome , Anacreon , Bacchus, and Cupid;
330. Grof (of Toulouse), Hercules and Diomede, the last work of the
artist who had not the courage to bear the criticism which it aroused ;
332, 333. Gros, Portraits of Mme. Gros and the artist himself; 339. Isahey,
Harbour of Boulogne; 351. Pils , Death of a sister of mercy. — The
following are unnumbered: lienj. Constant, Mahomet II. entering Con-
stantinople in 1443; Corot, Landscape; Henner, The Magdalene; Jordaens,
Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist ; /. P. Laurens, Pool of Bethesda :
*Mme Lebrun, Portrait of a lady; Protais , Diana; /. Restout , Diogenes;
Ri.rens , Death of Cleopatra.
The Museum also possesses a few Sculptitrks , among which are a
Chloris, by Pradier; model of the Tareisius, by Falguiere (a native of
Toulouse), and a cast of his Victor in a cock-fight; Cast of the statue of
David, by Mercii, also of Toulouse; a Shepherd teaching a kid to dance,
cast by R. Barthdemy ; bronze reproduction of Mercury inventing the ca-
duceus, by Idrac.
The First Floor, at the end of the Picture Gallery, contains small
Antiquities, small Objects of Art (alabaster reliefs, ivory carvings, fayence,
etc.), an F.thnographical Collection, and a Cabinet of Medals belonging to the
Academy of Science (5000 pieces).
On issuing from the Museum, we turn to the right along the Rue
<1'Alsace- Lorraine in order to regain, on the left, the Place Aw
Capitole, or, on the the right, the Square Lafayette, etc.
For the principal lines starting from Toulouse, see p. 70. To Bagneres-
<le-Luclion , see p. 150; to St. Giro?is, see p. 162; to Foix, Tarascon , Ussat,
and A.r, see pp. 164-168.
From Toulousk to Auch , 55 M., railway in 3 hr.s. (fares 11 fr..
8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 5 c). There are four trains, one of which starts from
the Ga7-e fit. Cyprien (p. 70), which those from the Gare Matabiau take
25-30 min. to reach , having to make a circuit of 6 M. Tlie line passes
through a picturesque and diversified country, crossing several valleys. —
14 M. (from Toulouse- Slatabiau) Pibrac , birthplace of Germaine Cousin,
a young shepherdess (1578-95), who was canonized in 1867, and whose
tomb has become an object of pilgrimage. — 26 M. L'lsle -Jottrdain , a
town with 4572 inhab., beyond which we cross the Save. — Near (39 M.)
Ginwnt -Cahuzac we cross the Oimone. Gimont is a small town witli an
interesting Gothic church, of brick, visible on an eminence to the left. —
to Cefte. CASTELNAUDAIiV. /. Route 10. 79
44 M. Aubiei , bevonil uliieli the line crosses the Arrats. 49 M. ifarsaii,
■with a fine chateau. — 55 M. Auch (see p. 90).
b. From Toulouse to Cette.
136 M. Railway in 33/4-71/2 lirs. (fares 27 t"r. 20, 20 fr. 45 c, 15 fr.). The
trains start from the Gare Matabiau.
Leaving on the right the lines to Tarbes and Auch, we asceiui
the wide, fertile, and well-ctiltivated ^alley of Lhers, which is al.so
traversed by the Canal du Midi (p. 72). — 167 M. (from Bordeaux)
E^rnlqnenH : 171 M. Montlaur : 174 M. Baziege: 176 M. Villenon-
velle; 180 M. Villefidiiche-de-Laurngtiais , a small town 011 the
Canal du Midi, possessing a church of the 14th cent., with a portal
in the Tolosan style: 184 M. Arignonet . another small town with
a 14th cent, church. Beyond (187 M.) Segala we cross the low
watershed and begin the descent to the basin of the Mediterranean.
— 191 M. Mas-Stes. Piielles. On the left the Cevennes appear, the
chain of the Montague Noire (see below) being prominent.
194 M. Castelnaudary {Hotel de France) , a town with 10,105
inhab., situated to the left on a hill adjoining the Canal du Midi.
About 4 JI, to the E. of Castelnaudary lies the large village of St.
Papottl, formerly the seat of a bishop and still possessing a fine abbey-
church, part of which, including the cloisters, is in the Romanesque style.
From Castelnaudary to Albi . 64 M.. railway in 3V2-4hrs. (fares
12 fr. 70, 9 fr. .50, 6 fr. 95 c). The line skirts the 'town on the E., %vith
the Montague Xoire (p. 80) to the right. — 121/., M. Si. FHix , a small
town, 2 M. to the W. — About 2 M. to the S. E. of (16 M.) Revel is the
Bassin de St. Ferreol , the most important feeder of the Canal du Midi.
It is formed by a dam about 2600 ft. long, 230 ft. thick, and 100 ft.
high. It hold.s 1400 million gallons of water, and when full has an area
of 166 acres. — About 31/2 M. to the E. of Revel, and 21/0 M. to the N. E.
of the basin, lies the .small town of Soreze, long famous for its Benedictine
abbey , converted into a college in 1682 and acquired by the Dominicans
in 1854. Father Lacordaire (d. 1861), the famous preacher, is buried here.
34 M. Castres (Hotel Sabatii^, Hotel du Nord), a town with 27,427 inhab.,
on the Agottt and the iJiirenque. On the right bank of the Agout is the
handsome Place Naiionale , adorned with a fountain. Near it, to the S.,
are the Cathedral of St. BenoH (17th cent.), the Sous- Prefecture, and the
Hotel de Ville , the last occupying the old Bishop's Palace, built by Man-
sart, and incorporating a Romanesque tower that formed part of an old
abbey. To the N. \V. is the College, with the keep of a 12th cent, castle,
and close by are the pleasant promenades of the Boulevards. The Espla-
nade du Mail, on the left bank, is another fine promenade. The town
has large manufactures of textile fabrics. — Routes to Mazamet, St. Po?ts,
Lamalou, and BMarienx, see p. 380; to Montauhan, p. 70.
44 M. Lautrec; 64 M. Albi (Gare d'Orle'ans). The Gare du Midi (see
p. 96) is 1 M. farther on. Line to Carmaux, see p. 97.
The Cette line continues to descend through a fertile and well
cultivated plain, traversed by the Canal du Midi. Olive-trees, re-
sembling willows, now begin to appear. The Cevennes (Montague
Noire) form the sky-line to the left. — 199 M. Pexiora : 204 M.
Bram; 207 M. Alzotme; 211 M. Pezens.
216 M. (56V2 from Toulouse) Carcassonne (Buffet : Hotel St.
Jean-Baptiste: Bernard; Bonnet), the capital of the department of
the A2ide, and the seat of a bishop, is a town with 29.320 inhab..
80 /. Route 10. CARCASSONNE. I'lom Bordeaux
situated on the river Aude. It consists of two ilistiiict parts: the
Lower Town, on the left bank, near the railway, and the Cite, some
way off. on a hill on the other bank. The latter is one of the most
interesting spots in Southern France.
Carcassonne was iu existence in the Roman period, but its importance
began durini; the three centuries ending witli 713, when it was in the
possession of the Visigoths, and reached its climax in the 11 - 13th cent.,
when it was ruled by a .series of viscounts, the Trencavels. It suli'ered
greatly in the Albigensian war, when it was taken partly by a ruse and
partly through treachery. The viscounty was united to France in 1239,
like the rest of the territories to which the Montforts had laid claim
after the crusade against the Albigenses. Carcassonne made a desperate
but unavailing resistance, under the last of the Trencavels, to this ab-
sorption, and King Louis the Saint isolated the Cite and founded the Lower
Town (1247). This latter was pillaged and burnt by the Black Prince in
1355. In 1560 many of the Huguenot inhabitants of Carcassonne were
massacred for having dragged a statue of the Virgin through the mire.
The LowEE Town, which is well built and regularly laid out,
is encirt'led by green and shady boulevards. The Rue des Cannes,
beginning opposite the station, beyond the Canal du Midi, traverses
the whole town , passing the Place aux Ilerbes in the centre. In
this street, to the right, stands the Gothic Church of St. Vinrent
(14-16th cent.) with a massive unflnislied tower, from whichMechain
and Delambre calculated the site of the meridian of Paris, which
passes only 46" to the W. This church, like many others in the S.,
is remarkable for the width of its nave. It is lighted by rose-win-
dows above the chapels between the pillars, and contains some fine
stained glass.
The Place aux Herhes . planted with fine plane-trees, con-
tains a marble fountain of the 18th cent, with a figure of Neptune,
by Baratta. ~ Continuing to follow the street by which we have
come from St. Vincent, we reach the Cathedral of St. Michel, a
Gothic church of the 13th cent, which seems to have served as a
model for St. Vincent's. There is no portal at the W. end, but the
wall is adorned with a fine rose -window. The church is entered
from the Rue St. Michel by a small doorway on the N. side. The
interior, newly restored, is painted in grisaille.
Proceeding to the E. (left) along the promenades to the S. of this
church, we reach the fine square called the Place Ste. Ce'cile.
Near this point, in the Grande-Rue, is the Musee, open to the
public on Sun. and Thurs. from 12 to 4. It chiefly contains paint-
ings, amongst which are some by Italian Masters such as Guerrino',
Bordone, Guido, and Panini. a few by Flemish artists, and a large
number of ancient and modern French works, by Chardin. Gretize,
Satoire, Iligaud, Bellange', Cabanel, Ge'rard, Girardet , Girodet,
Lelimann, Mauzais.te, etc. — Here, too, is the Town Library, con-
taining 20,000 volumes.
The *CitJc or Old Town of Carcassonne is on the S.W. side of
the town. It is reached by crossing the Pont Neuf over the Aude,
near the Square Oambetta. or the Vieux Pont, a little higher up, and
O) Cdte. CAUCASSONNJ-:. I. lioute 10. 81
travorsiiig the siitiiil) ol'Tiivalle. Anything nioio curious or unique
in appoarancp tlian this town of the Middle Ages, with its double
line of I'ortifications, furnished with flfty round towers and dominat-
cil by a citadel, can hardly be imagined. A good distant view of
the finest part of it is obtained from the side of the valley. The
fortifications date back to the da\s of the Visigoths (Oth cent.), but
were frequenlly reconstructed or altere<l before the 14th cent., and
they have also been renewed in recent times by Viollet-le-Duc. The
outer line or enceinte is more than 1600 ytls. in circumference, the
inner one IQOO yds. There are only two entrances . the Porte de
t'Aude, to the W., beyond the fortress, and the Porte Sarbonnahe,
to the E. To visit the principal points of interest the services of
the custodian, who lives near the I'orte de lAude, should be secured.
Specially noteworthy are the numerous defences of the Porte de
r.\ude. the Bislioji'.< Tower, adjoining both enceintes, the Toicer of
the J)i(/uisltio)i. the 't'ren'-ury Towtr. and the Porte Narbonnaise. of
the i;]tli cent., with its two towers. The whole of the N. part was
built by the Visigoths on the ruins of Roman fortifications, which
are still visible at several points. The squalid interior of the Cite
contains a few ancient and badl) preserved houses. The small
street which begins at the Porte Narbonnaise leads to the Citadel^
in which very little restoration has been effected. Its interior, now
used as a barrack, is without interest.
Ne.xt to its fortifications the cliief buildingof the Cite is the church
of '-'St. N.\z.\ire. formerly a cathedral, founded in the oth cent.,
but rebuilt in the 1 1 - 14th , and lately restored by Viollet-le-Duc.
The portal has disappeared and we enter by a Romanesque door-
way on the N. side. The nave, in the Romanesque style of the r2th
cent., with Gothic side-chapels, is heavy au<l massive when eon-
trastcfl with the transept and the choir, both of which are splendid
erei-tions of the 14tli cent. , containing magnificent stained-glass
windows. In a chapel to the left of the nave is the monument
of I'ierre de Roquefort (d. 1321). the bishop who finished the church,
with three fine life-size figures in high - relief. To the left of the
choir is the tomb of Simon X'igorce, archl)ishop of Narbonne (1575),
with a fine marble statue. A coarse bas-relief on the S. side of the
nave represents the siege of Toulouse in 1218. In the small sacristy
on the same side is the interesting tomb of Bp. Ra<lulph (1266). A
tablet of red marble near the high-altar is said to mark the original
resting-place of Siinun de Montfort, Karl of Leicester, the persecntoi*
I'f the Albigenses.
.\ good view of the Pyrenee.s is obtained from a point outside
the fortifications, near the Porte de I'Aude.
Kroin ('arca.s.sonne to Qiiillan (excursions), see H. 2,'j.
Resuming our journey from Carcassonne, we cross the Canal du
Midi and the Aude and, after getting a fine glimpse of the Cit^ on the
right, enter a sli()rt tunnel. A\'e follow the x.illey of the Auile. gener-
Itaedi'ker. Smitlieni France.
82 /. Route 10. NAKBONiMv Fiom Bordeaux
ally at some distance from the circuitous course of the river.
•220 M. Tribes; 223 M. Flonre; 226 M. Capendu. To the right
rises the Montagrte d'Aldric (1950 ft.), on which the Visigoth king
is said to have had a castle, with some ruins ot the 14th cent, and
marble quarries. — 232 M. Moua\
A branch-line runs hence fo (171/2 M.) Caunes , with valuable ntarble
<]uarries.
Diligence (80 c.) to Fabrezan , a country-town of 2300 inbab. , 8 M.
to the S., on the Orbieu, with a castle dating in part from the 12th cent.,
the tower of which is nearly 100 ft. high.
Kroni Fabre/.an and from Lagrasse, also finely situated on the Orbieu,
6 M. to the S. W. , picturesque excursions may be made among the
Corbieres , a small chain of mountains which strikes out fi-om the Py-
icnees near the Pecb de Bugarach and runs from S.W. to X.E., between
the Aude and the Agly (good roads). About 3 M. to the S. of Fabrezan
we join the road from Lagrasse to Narbonne, whence diverge several
iif the most interesting routes across the Corbieres, the finest those
to Estagel and La Nouvelle.
To ESTAOEL. There are two roads from Fabrezan. The first, the
.shortest (31 M. ) and least interesting, diverges to the right from the Nar-
bonne road, and joins the second at Tuchan (see belovvj. The latter
(34 M. from Fabrezan, 32 BI. from LagrasseJ quits the Lagrasse road at
.S<. Laurent-de-la- Cabrerisse (I1/4 M.) and rejoins it 4 BI. farther on. —
11 BI. (from Fabrezan), Villerouge - de -7Vrm&n^s ^ with a chateau and iron
mines. 16 BI. Palairac ; 20 BI. Maison; 24 31. Tiiclian, a large village and
the centre of a coal-field on the S.E. slope of the Montague de 2'auch
(2850 ft.). At (27 BI.) Paziols we reach the valley of the Verdouble. —
34 BI. Hntagel, see p. 174.
To La Xouvelle. The road leaves that to Narbonne on the right
21/.J BI. from the Fabrezan road. About 1 BI. farther on is Thezan , where
the scenery begins to be very picturesque. Farther on (121/.) BI.), a road
on tiie right goes off to (31/.2 BI.) Durban, with its ruined chateau, and
beyond this point we enter the valley of the Berre. IQl/o BI. Poriel, beyond
which is the Pont de Tamaroque, 65 ft. high. 23 BI. Sijean, a smalltown
near the lake of the same name (p. 172), with salt-works which produce
annually about 2.500 tons of salt. — 27 BI. La Noiivelle, see p. 172.
Beyond (238 M.) Lc'zignan the train crosses the Orbieu. 243 M.
Viiledaigne: 246 M. Marrorhjnav .
252 M. Narbonne (Buft'et: Hotels de la Dorade. de Paris, de
France, Rue de la Republique, near the Hotel de Ville ; Grand-
Hotel.. Boul. (Jambetta) , a town of 29,700 inhab. , is situated in a
dusty plain, 5 M. from the Mediterranean, with which it is connected
by the Canal de la Robine. Though still carrying on a number
of industries (distilling, coopering, etc.), it has emphatically seen
its best days, and its streets are badly built and far from clean. A
handsome new quarter has, however, been laid out near the station,
necessitating the removal of the interesting old fortilications. It is
a disappointing town to those who bear in mind its former impor-
tance, as its only lions are the old Cathedral and the ,\rchbishop's
Palace. Even the Museum is poor in antiquities.
Narbonne, AVarbo , ^vas a flourishing town as early as the 5th cent.
B. V. It was colonized by the Romans P.. ('. 116. At that time it wa.s
surrounded by lakes which were connected with the Lake of Sijean (p. 172)
and so communicated with the sea, thus making the town one of the first
ports of the Blediterranean and the rival of Massilia. It gave its name
to Gallia Narbonensis, a part of Gaul conquered by the Romans before the
lu Celte. NAUBONNE. /. Route 10. 83
time of Csesar. Martial . in A. D. 95, speaks of it as a beautiful town,
and Sidonius Apollinaris (d. 484) i)raises its theatre, temple, capitol.
warm baths, triumphal arches, and other buildings, of which nothing
remains but fragments discovered in the walls of the enceinte, which
were demolished in 1867. The Visigoths established themselves here in
413 and kept possession of the town till 719. when it was taken by the
Saracens after two years" siege. So strongly did the latter fortify it that
Charles Martel failed to take it and the troops of Pepin only effected their
entrance through treason in 759. In 817 the town became the capital of
the duchy of Septimanla or Gothia , adjudged to Lothaire , but it after-
wards had its own viscounts , passing subsequently first to the Counts
of Auvergue, then to those of Toulouse, with whose dominions it was
linally united to France. The decay of the town dates from the begin-
ning of the 14lh cent. , when the Jews, who had been established in a
quarter of their own by Charlemagne, were expelled, and the port
became silted up through the bursting of a dyke, by which the Romans
had diverted to it a branch of the Aude. — The honey of Xarbonne is
considered the best in France.
The shortest way from the station to the centre of the town,
where are the principal objects of interest, leads to the right along
the railway and turns to the left opposite the goods-station, in the.
Avenue du Capitole. We then pass the modern Collef/e . to the
right, and traverse a small square, whence the Rue Droite leads to
the Place de IHotel-de-Ville.
The Chiech of St. Just, formerly the Cathedral (closed from
luion till 1). is a fine but unfinished Gothic edifice of 1272-1332.
The work was resumed in the 18th cent., and again in recent years,
but has once more been interrupted. The choir, the only ancient
part, with towers added in the loth cent., is a vast pile 131 ft. in
height, rivalling the churches of the North in boldness of style, if
not in richness of ornamentation. The exterior is crowned with a
double range of battlements, and the flying buttresses end in turrets.
lyTERiOK. In the amhulatory are some interesting tombs of bishops
of the 14th and 16th cents.; in the 3rd chapel on the left, that of a
general of the time of Henri IV. The organ-case dates from 1741. The
treasury contains MSS., uiissals, ivory carvings, portable altars, a cross,
a chalice, etc. (7 -16th cent.). Fine view from the towers. — Adjoining
the church are some remains of the C'loisiers (14-15th cent.).
The chief remains of the Archiepiscopal Palace , w hich was
fortified in the Middle Ages, are three towers on the fagade, the
largest (on the left) dating from 1318. The Gothic Hotel de ViUe.
between this tower and the next, was built by Viollet-le-Duc.
The *MusEiM. in the same building, chiefly contains paintings
and a fine ceramic collection (Sun., 2-4; to strangers at other times
also). We enter by the door to the left, at the end of the court, or
by skirting the building to the left to the Jardin Public at the back
of it. The garden contains sculptures, inscriptions, architectural
fragments, and other antiquities found at Narbonne; the rest of
the antiquities have been temporarily deposited in the old Eglise
de Lamourguie'. beyond the canal, and may be seen on application
to the keeper of the Museum.
Room L Gallic and Roman antiquities: fossils from the quarries of
Armissan. -5 51. to the E. of Narbonne ; sl.x pictures representing aldermen
6*
84 /. Jiuiile 10. NAHUONNK. Viota Bordenux.
of Narboiine in the ITtli cent.; and portraits of benelai^toi-s of the Museiuti.
— Room 11.. iu the large tower, has a beautiful ceiling, e.veeuted in 1634
by Italian artists and representing Genii and Muses; also a Tioman mo-
saic found at Narbonne. — The ancient Dining Hall of the archbishops
and other rooms are also interesting for their decorations. Among
the best pictures in R. II. are: 154. //. Rigainl, Portrait; 277. MoraUs
Cristo/oro , Eece Homo: 244. Gtiardi, Piazza of St. Mark; 2.50. /.tiini.
Head of John the Baptist; 260. .Saxfo/erralo, Madonna; 51. Dauzatf, Spanish
landscape; 297. Jordaeiif, Family of Darius before .\le-xander; 247. Giiuio
Rent, St. Paul, copy or replica of a work in the picture-gallery of Bo-
logna. — Room III. To the right and above the door, 323. P. de Vos,
Amazons; 275. Carducho (Spain). St. Joseph and the Holy Child; Rubens,
Jesus at the house of Lazarus (birds, etc., by Snydeis) -, to the left, 7. 0.
Becker, The martyr's widow; 125. /*. Mignard, San Carlo Borromeo ad-
niinisfering the Communion to the plague-stricken at Milan: 95. M. Ilesse,
Louis XIV.; 291. Brueghel the Elder, Village-festival; 266. Tintoretto,
Sacrilice ; 298. Jordaens, Triumph of Silenus ; 29. Breinond, Francis I.
visiting Benvenuto Cellini; marble figures by Ottin and Lescornfe. Inte-
resting furniture, medals, etc.
Rooms IV. ii V. contain the *Ceramic Collection, which comprises 624
pieces. Among the most noteworthy are the Mauro-Spanisli ware, from-
Valencia (Nos. 1-13); the Italian majolica of Castelli (71), Deruta (72, 73),
Savona (90, 92), Urbino (97, 98, 101-103), etc.; the porcelain and glazed
ware of China, Japan, Persia, Berlin, Saxony, France, etc.
Room VI. (adjoining R. IV.). Above the door. 294. Fi^t, Kitchen (figures
by .fordaens); to the left. 39,40. Ph. de Champaigne, Portraits; 330. 0. van
de Velde, Sea-piece: UO. Xattier, Portrait; 129, 130. N. .ifignard. Portraits;
89. Grenze, Head of a girl; 314. Van, Dyck , Honore of Savoy: 126. P. Mi-
gnard (J), Mme. de Sevigne ; 149. Primaticcio, Rape of Europa. — Room VII.
Casts from the antique. To the right, between the windows, 529. Silenuf,
an ancient marble statue found in constructing the railway.
Room VIII. (adjoining R. V.). To the left, .302. Moreelse or Rave-
rtein. Portrait; 278. Murillo (?), The Holy Child appearing to St. Anthony
of Padua; 236. Carracci, St. Augustine: no number, Raphael (?), Martyr-
dom of St. Cecilia, a fresco from La Magliana (sadly damaged); 301.
Miererelt C)) , Portrait; irio. liigaud , Portrait of himself ; '28X.^Velazquei,
Assumption; 59. Desperhes (ea. 1588), Holy Family; no number, Baroccio,
Descent from the Cross: 253. Palnia Vecchio ('!), Marriage of St. Catharine;
268. Veronese, Madonna, wiih the donor and saints; 261. >*>'«6. del Piombo,
Portrait; 232. Bassano , .-Kiloration of the Shepherds; 234. Pietro da Cor-
tona (Berettini), Jlassaire of the Innocents; 264. Titian, Vine. Capello;
148. N. Poussin, John the Baptist; 258. Salcator Rosa, St. Jerome; 299.
Jordaens (?iHev Rubens), Bacchanalian scene; 243. Giotto (1), Holy Family;
242. Garofaln (y), Jesus and the Woman of Samaria; 2i5. Cwe/YtHO, Judith ;
01. G. Poussin, Landscape; 280. Rihera, St. Andrew. — The Gallery pa-
rallel to the large hall, contains furniture, engravings, etc.
Ill the Rue Michelpt. ruiiiiiiia; parallel to the Hue Droite, is the
■ hurch of St. Vinrfiuf, in the florid Gothic .style. The chapel to the
rijrlit I'Oiitaiiis a Hue .stone reredos. — .Vrchffologists may visit the
> hur.h of SI. Vnnl. Serf/e, a Gothic building of the 13th cent., near
the outskirts of the town, beyond the Robine.
from Narbonne to Perpignan , see R. 26. — A branch-line r\ins from
Narbonne to fl3M.) Bi:e. a manufacturing town on the Cesse. with some
prehistoric caves.
'256 M. Coursan (Hotel), a town of 3786 inhab. , on tlie .\iide,
with an artesian well yielding an aerated and ferruginous thermal
water. We cross the Aude. Farther on, to the left, is the Lnlce of
Capestani), which is to be drained. - Beyond (^'i M.) Niaao)). \re
thread a tunnel of 550 yards, partly under another tunnel through
to Cette. BEZIEUS. /. lioxlf 10. 85
which thi' Canal tin Midi passes. Reaching B^ziers. we cross tht?
Orb. which a little lower down is also crossed by a fine aqueduct of
the Canal du Midi.
268 M. B6zierB {Hotel de la I'uix. D. 3tr. : Vaal-Uiijuel : de*
I'ostt!': du Coininerce. de la lie'serce. Allies Paul-liinnet; //. dn
iSoid. Place de la Citadelle: Buffet), with 41.78;j inhab. . tinely
situated on a hill to the left, is a town of very ancient origin, having
been colonized by the Romans under the name of Bitcna Scfthna-
noruiii. Like most of its neighbours, it sui!Vred severely in the
Albigensian wars, and in 1209. about '20-30.000 of its citizens
were massacred or burned. Beziers produces good red wines and
carries on a large trade in brandy.
Quitting the station we have before us the Jaidin des Foites,
across which foot-passengers ascend to the Alle'ex Panl-Iiiqiiet,
the central and finest part of the town, forming a shady promenade
550 yds. long. In the tirst half of it stands a statue (by David
d'Angers) of Paul lliquet. the engineer of the Canal du Midi (p. 7*2],
who was a native of Beziers. Adjacent is the large Place de la Cita-
delle and at the end of the avenue rises the Theatre, adorned with
fine bas-reliefs in terracotta, also by David d'Angers.
The Rue de la Promenade, diverging to the left on this side of
the theatre, leads to the Hotel de Ville, a building of the 18th centur\.
It contains a small Mrti't'e. with about a hundred pictures, including
works by Domenichino. Titian. Guercino. and Giulio Romano.
Hence we proceed to the old cathedral of St. Sazaire, the prin-
cipal building of Beziers. at the S. W. end of the town. It dates
from the 12- 14th cent, and is in the Gothic style peculiar to tin-
district, partly fortified and showing little adornment. The win-
dows of the choir retain their old glass and iron scrollwork. In the
Vt'. fagade is a fine rose window anil over it a large square tower. Tim
8. transept is adjoined by Gothic cloisters of the 14th century.
The terrace by the cluirch afl'ords a magnificent view, com-
prising the valley of the Orb, the Cevennes to the N.. tiie Corbieres
to the 8. \y. and the Mediterranean to the S.
.\bout 1 •_> il- I*' the 8.\V. are the interesting Lockf of /■'onseraiines,
by which tlie Canal du Midi descends 80 ft. within 330 yd.*;, to reach the
level of the Orb. — At the mouth of the Orb. 8 M. to the S. K., there are
Sea-Baths, served by a steam-trauiway (1 hi'.: 75c.).
From Be'ziers to liodez, etc.. see K. 13.
From Bezikhs to Monthelliep. via I'Ait.ii.^N (Loihre) . 04' -j M. , local
railway in 3-3i/o hrs. (fares 9 fr.. 6 fr. 75, 4 fr. 85 c.J. — The direct line
(10 M. shorter) is quitted at Vias (see l)elow), whence we ascend to the
K. tlirough the valley of the IleraiiH. — 22i/o 51. P6zenas (IJOtel de la Paix),
the Koman Pisceniuf, a very ancient town of 69'27 inhab., with an impor-
tant traile in cognac. Here Moliere made his debut and composed his
'Precieuses liidicules". The town is also a station on the line from Beziers
to Montpellier via Me/.e (see below). — 29 JI. Faulhan (BulTet), on the line
from Neussargues and Rode/, to Montpellier (RU. 13 and .56).
From Paulhan to Lodbve , 18Vj M., a continuation of the line from
Be'-fiers thruus:h the vallev of the Herault. — 71 '.> JI. Clerir.ont-l'IUrauU, a
86 7. Route 10. AGDK.
small industrial town, with tanneries and uianiil'actures id woollen cloth,
mainly for the army. It contains a church of the 13-14th cent, and a
ruined castle. About 5 M. to the S.W. is the small village of Moureze,
in a curious amphitheatre of dolomite rocks recalling Montpellier-le-Vieu.x
(p. 38S). — 181 /o JI. Lodfeve (II6tel dit Xord) , the Luteva of the ancients, a
tinely situated "town of 9500 inhabitants. It was governed in the Middle
Ages by viscounts, and then by bishops, who up to 1789 had the right of
coining money. It is now a manufacturing town, specially engaged in
making military clotli. The Cathedral dates from the 13th and 16th centuries.
From Beziers to JIoktpellihk via Wkze , 50 M. This line, starting
from the Gare de I't'zenas, is longer than that above described and is al-
most without interest to the tourist. — 15V2 M. Przenas (see above); 27 M.
Wftt, a town of 5800 inhab., on the Lake of Thau, with salt-works; 37 M.
Afoiitbazin (p. 381). — Montpellier, see p. 401.
Fro.m Beziers to St. Chikian, 20 M., railway in 13'4 hr. (fare.s 3 fr. 15,
1 fr. 95 c). The line ascends the pretty valley of the Orb via I.irjnan,
Afaraussan, Cazouh-les-Beziers to (14 31.) Cessenon , and turns then to the
left. 20 M. St. Chinian (Hot. du Grand-Soleil) is an industrial pi aceof
3572 inhab., in a picturesque situation. The line is to be carried on to
(35 M.) St. Pons (p. 380).
'272 M. ViUeneuve-les-Bezier.'<, beyond whioli the Mediterranean
(onies into view on the right. — 279 M. Vias, with an interesting
chnroh of the 14th century. To Montpellier via Pezenas, see above.
About 1/2 31. to the S. E, is a curious Aqueduct by which the Libron
crosses the Canal du Midi. It consists of two movable parts, which open
and shut for the passage of boats along the canal.
291 M. Agde (Hotel de la Poste), the ancient Ayatlii, founded
by tlie Massiliots (p. 431), a to\vn of 8446 inhab., is situated on the
Herault and the Canal du Midi , 3 M. from the sea, and has a har-
bour carrying on a brisk trade with Spain and Italy. To the S. K.
rises an extinct volcano (360 ft.), which furnished the lava of which
the town is bnilt, and off the coast is the little He de Brescoii, which,
like the Cap d'Ai/de and the mouth of the Ilerault, is fortified. Like
most of the towns in S. France, Agde was taken and sacked in the
early Middle Ages by the Vandals, the Visigoths, the Saracens, the
Franks, and the Crusaders in the Albigensian wars. The Calvinists
also obtained possession of it and kept it from 1562 to 1577. The
Cdthedral, almost the only ancient monument that has escaped de-
struction , dates from the 12th cent.; being fortified, like many
other churches in S. France, it looks at a distance like a castle.
We next cross the canal and the Herault and pass, on the left,
the Etang de Than, a salt lake 11 M. long and 5-8 M. wide, on the
banks of which are large salt-works. The Canal dn Midi ends
here and is prolonged to the sea by the Canal de Cette. Beyond
(285 M.) Lei> Ougl.ons, the line follows a tongue of land, about '2 M.
wide, between the Mediterranean and the lake. On the opposite bank
lies Meze, a station on the Herault line (see above). At the N.E.
end are the baths of Bat.nntc (p. 406). Finally we cross the Canal
de Cette, and reach —
296 M. Cette (Buffet), see p. 406.
87
11. From Perigueux to Tarbes (Pyrenees).
I. From Perigueux to Agen.
94 M. Raii,\vav in 4-41/2 In-s. tl'aies 18 Ir. 80, 14 fr. 20, 10 IV. 40 e.).
Pt'rigueux , sec p. 39. The train passes near the ruins (left) o I
Chateau Banihe (p. 41); to the right is the Touv Vesone (p. 41).
lU'yondlTM.) .\7ceri(av, the.jniictioii forBrive(p. 92), ourlineascends.
11 M. \'ersannes: ISi/jM. La Ge'lie. - 21 M. Miremont.
About 3 JI. tci tlie E. of the stalion is the -Grotto of Miremont or
Tiou de Granrille, the galleries ol' which measure altogether about 4600 yds.
in length. The 'Grande Branche' is about 1100 yds. long, and contaius
remarkable stalactites and stalagmite.s, fossil shells, etc. The guide, whose
attendance is necessary, lives close by. The entrance is narrow and the
ground almost everywhere slippery; the atmosphere cold and damp. To
see the whole w^iulrt take eight hours, but curiosity may be satislied in
two. The most interesting points are the Cas de la Vieille, a stalagmite:
the Cake Room, the Sparkling Oiotto, the Umbrella, St. Front, a domed
i-hamber, the Shell Room, the Table and Tomb of Gargantua, the Halle de
la f.abeorhe, and the Foirail or Afarket Place.
Beyond Miremont we cross two viaducts, pass through a short
tunnel, and cross the Vezere. — 25'/o M. Les Eyzies, a picturesquely
placed village surrounded and overhung by magnificent rocks. Thesf
rocks contain a large number of (irott'ien. wiiere remarkable dis-
coveries of bones of extinct animals and of implements of flint
and reindeer horn have recently been made.
The line now again crosses the Vezere. Beyond (30 M.) Le
liiifiue, a commercial town with 29o0inhab. , we cross for the last
time the tortuous Vezere. which Joins the Dordogne a little farther
on. On the left is the ancient Chateau de Perdkint : to the right
the village oi Limeni I , once a fortified town. AVe now enter the beau-
tiful valley of the Dardtuine and cross that river.
3;')'/2 .M. Le Buisson 'Buffet), tlie junction of the line from
I'.ordeaux via Bergerac (p. 12^ About 3' j M. to the S. is Cadotiin.
whiih once possessed a celebrated abbey. The only remains are the
chur<-h ll2th cent.), with a tine painting of the 15th cent., and the
magiiiflceiit *Cloisters, in the Flamboyant style.
Beyoufl (40 M.) Sloiar we quit the Dordogne valley, which di-
verges to the left, and skirt slopes planted with vines.
A branch-line runs from Siorac to (31 M.) CazoitU.<! , partly Ihrough
(he valley of the Dordogne. — 5 M. St. Cyprieu; 10 JI. Castelnaud , with
a 14)h cent, castle. — 16 )I. Sarlat (Hotel de la Madeleine), a town of
1)070 inhab., has a cathedral of the 11th. 12th, and 15th cent., and nume-
rous quaint old hou.ses. — 31 M. t'azoules, the present terminus of the
line, which is to be extended to Saint-Denis-pres-Martel (p. 92).
43'/2 "^I- Belres. a small town of 2240 inhabitants. The country
now becomes very hilly: the line crosses five viaducts and passes
through a tunnel 1640 yds. long. oOM. Le (.'o/,o4'/2M. ViUefranche-
de-Belviit. a small town on a hill rising from the AUemauce, which
we cross repeatedly farther on. 58 .M. Saurelerre , with a ruined
castle of the 13th century. — 60 M. S/. Front, with a partly for-
tifii'«l Romanesque church. - 64 i\l. Cuzoni.
58 /. liouti' 11. CAHORS. From Pe'iigueux
GT'/jjM- Monsempoa-Libos (BiifFef), with an interesting Gothic
and Romanesque churcti.
From JIohskmpkon-Lieos to Cahors, 31 JI. , railway in IV4-2 lu-.s.
(lares 6 fr. 15, 4 tV. 60, 3 fr. 45 c.)- This branch ascends tUe picturesque
valley of tlie /jO(. II/4 M. f'umel, an industrial town of 3670inbab. , 5 M.
from, the well-preserved old castle of Bonay nil. The line tlien runs be-
tween the river and the steep heights on the left. At the foot of the liills
on the right are tlie ruins of the old town of Orgueil. 51/2 M. Sotiirac-
Touzac; 8 M. Din-avel^ beyond which we cross the tortuous Lot; 11 >f.
Piiij-V Eeeque y a town of 2270 inhab., situated on the left. Tlien another
liridge over the Lot and a short tunnel. 15i/o M. Castel/ranc , with a
castle situated on the right a little short of the station; 20 Bl. Luzech,
with a ruined castle of the 13th cent. , on a peninsula formerly defended
l)y a Celtic fortress, of which some remains have been discovered. 22 M.
Parnac. To the left is the chateau of Grezette. 26 M. Jferciih , with an
interesting castle of the 13th cent., on a hill to the right, belonging to
the Bishop of Cahors. To the left are massive retaining walls, with
arches. — To the right, as we reach Cahors, is the Pont Valentre (see
below).
31 M. Cahors {Hotel de V Europe, Rue du Lyce'e ; Hut. des Ambafsadeurf,
Houl. Gambetta), the chief town of the department of the Lot, with 15,622
inhab., is prettily situated on the N. bank of the river of that name. It
was the old capital of the country of the Caiduci, and afterwards of Qiierci/.
It was sacked by the Saracens and the Normans, occupied for a time
ay the English, and taken by Henri IV., when King of Navarre. It
formerly possessed a university founded by Pope John XXII. (Jacques
d'Euse), who was a native of the town.
Near the railway is the "Pokt Valentrk (14th ceut.) , with three
towers, the two exterior ones being machicolated. About 220 yds. higher
up, on the left bank, is the Fontaine de$ Chartreii.r, a limpid and abundant
spring surrounded by rocks, from which was derived the Roman name of
the town, Divona ('holy fountain'). The water flows through three ba.sins
connected by cascades and is finally conducted into the Lot.
The Rue du Lyce'e, which begins at the Pont Valentre, leads to the
right, past the Lycie, w hich has a fine 17th cent, brick tower, to the Bou-
levard Gambetta. In front is the Hotel de Yille, containing a small Miif^e
with collections of art, archeology, and natural history (open on Sun. and
holidays from 2 to 4 and to strangers at other times also).
Descending the Boulevard Gambetta, we pass, on the right, the Mom-
MKNT OF Gambetta, a large work by Falguiere, w ith a Vjronze statue of the
Dictator (born at Cahors in 1838. "d. 1882). Beyond is the Coins f'^nelon,
so named from a small nionunienl with a B>isl of fVnelon, who studied at
the University of Cahors. Here, too, are statues of Bessih-es and Mnvat,
two celebrities of the Lot district, and a Fonnlaiit with a statue of Neptune.
The Cathedral of Cahors, m\ the left side of the Place reached by
the Rue Fenelon (opposite the Gambetta monument), l)elongs, like tlu)se of
Perigueux and .\ngouleme, to tlie Romanesque-Byzantine period, and has
two domes. It dates from the end of the 1 1th cent, but has been much
altered. The choir and some of the chapels were in great part rebuilt in
tlie 14-15th centuries. The A'. Door, on the left, unfortunately much ilila-
pidated. is tlie niost interesting part of tlie exterior; the tympanum lou
tains line sculptures. The most notable features of the interior, to which
we descend by six steps, are the paintings of the chapel on the right
of the choir, and some restored painting.s of the lUli century.
At the end of the Rue Fenelon is the Clinrch of <S7. Urcise, of the 12-
13th centuries. A few paces beyond it we reach the right bank of tlie
river Lot. Turning to the left, we pass the Pout Neuf, near which are
the euriou.s remains of the Co^t-^i; /'W/ej// (I4th cent.). On the other bank
are the ruins of a Dominican Convent, also of the 14th century. The town
still retains a part of the liampai-ts of this period, the most noteworthy
remain.s being on the right bank of the river, across the bridge, including
the Tour de la Barre, which is in excellent preservation.
tu Tarbef. LECTOl'HK. /. h'vvfe 11. 89
The Palace of Joint XXII., another I4th ceut. building, occupies an
euiiDence near the N. end of the Boulevard Ganibetta. II is to a great
extent in ruins. Beside it stands the Church of Soirt-Daine , of the same
period, and in front of it rises a monument to the Mobiles (volunteers)
of Lot.
Railway from Cahors to Moniauban, see p. 70: to Capdenac, p. 94.
Beyond Moiiseiiiproii the Ageii line skirts the Lot for some dis-
tance, passing (71 M.) Trentds-Ladignnc.
TT'/a M. Vtnne, on a hill l',4M. to the N. of the station, with
the scanty remains of a famous medieval castle. .\t some distance,
to the left, are the ruins of Cn-^tel GaiUard.
From 1'eh^k lo \'illeneivk-svr-Lot, 51/o 51., railway in 1/4 '"". (fares
1 fr. 10, 85, 65 c.). — Villeneuve-sur-Lot (H6tel Lamouroiix) is a town of
14,700 iuhah.. \\H\i a large trade especially in prunes, which it exports
annually to the value of 120,000 I. Part of "the namparts of the 13th cent.,
especially on the left hanli, and a bridge of the same period still remain.
One of the squares is surrounded by arcades of the same date.
We now traverse a pretty valley and a tunnel 1350yds. long.
To the left is the lofty Totir de Hautefage (15th cent.). 88 M. Ln-
roqiie, with remains of fortifications. Beyond (OO'/o M-) Pont-du-
Ca^se . we cross the Canal Lattral a In Garonne (p. 64) and join
the Bordeaux line.
94 M. -If/en (Bullet), see p. 65.
II. From Agen to Tarbes.
95 M. Kailway iu .ji 4-31/.., hrs. (fares IS fr. 2.5, 12 ir. G5 c, 10 fr.).
Following the Toulouse line as far as (S'/j M.) lion- Encoutre
(p. 67). we cross tlic Garonne by a tine viaduct and ascend the valley
of the Ger$. 6 M. Lriiirdc. a small place with a Romanesque church ;
8 M. Goulenit : 11 M. .K^tnffoit: it'/.^M. C'o.tte.r-Lertoiiroi,^.
'22' .2 M. Lectoure i Hotel de France, well spoken of; Hotel de
i Europe. Rue Nationale. indifl'ereut). an ancient town of 5270 inhab..
on a steep and almost coiupletcly isolated hill. The principal
Church . formerly a cathedral, to the right, at the end of the Rue
Nationale, is a massive building of the 13th and 16th centuries. It
contains side-chapels with galleries, a high-altar, and some modern
stained glass. The fine pendentives of the apsidal chapels are note-
worthy. Behind the church is a promenade commHiiding a fine view
of the Pyrenees. .\t the end of the promenade is a Statue of Mar-
shal Laniies (1709-1809). Duke of Montebello. who was born at Lec-
toure of obscure parents. The Rue de Fontelie. which descends to
the right of the old episcopal palace, near the cliurch, leads to the
Fontaine Ilonde'lie or Font -FJie. which dates from the Roman
period, when it i-: .■■aid to have been consecrated to Diana of Delos
or to the Sun: it was partly rebuilt in the Middle Ages. It forms a
grotto with pointed \aulting and two arches closed b> a railing.
We now cross the Gers. and reach (28'/j M.) Flenranre. a small
town on its right bank. Bejond (.32 M.) Montestrnc the Gers is
again crossed. 35'/, M. Ste. Christie. Beyond (38'/> M.) h'amberf-
I'reionan. the line to Toulouse diverges to the left.
90 I. Buute II. AUCH.
43',2 ^1- Auch Hotel de /-'mhcc . Place de lHuti'l - -le -Ville ;
(ieoifie.i, IvHP (ie Loiraiiic), tlie ancient capital ol' (iasrony. and now
the chief town of the department of the Gers, with 15,000 inhab.. is
citnated on a steep hill rising from the river Gers. It was the capital
(if the Ausri. and was very flonrishing under the Romans. Since the
9th cent, it has been the seat of archbishops, who formerly styled
themselves the Primates of Novempopulania.
The town is entered by a street to the right of the station and
the Avenue d'Alsace, which leads to a bridge over the turbid and
yellowish Oers. The Kue de Lorraine, beyond the bridge, ascends
to a small Place (right), with a Statue of Adm/r<d ViUaref-Joyeuse
(1750-1812). Turning to the left into the Rue Gambetta . we soon
reach the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville and the Cours d'Etigny, a
promenade adorned with a Statue of Meyret d' EtU/ny , a governor
iif tiie district in the 18th century. The building at the other end
of the (.'ours is the Palais de Justice, a recent erection.
The ^-Cathedrai, of St. Mary, in the Place adjoining the
Hotel de Ville, rebuilt in 1483-1662, is one of the finest churches
in the Soutli of France. It is in the form of a Latin cross with a
transept in the debased Gothic style: the classical portico is sur-
mounted by two square towers of the composite order.
The I>-TKRi(i!! is more imposing: than the exterior, which on the whole
is somewhat lieavy and cold. The Choir (closed) contains 113 beauti-
fully carved ".'flails, masterpieces of their period. The rood-loft between
the nave and choir has given place to a pretentious modern Choir-
organ, with panels on its sides adorned with paintings on a gold ground.
The reredos at the High Altar is a huge and tasteless marble erection
of the end of the 16th century. The chapels of the Ambulatory contain
rich stained glass of the Renaissance . representing Patriarchs, Prophets,
Apostles, and Sibyls. .Some of the sculptures in the chapels are also
noteworthy. IJehind the choir are several hasreliel's of tlie Renaissance.
Near the cathedral stand a Tower and another small building
of the 13th cent. , botii recently restored. A handsome flight of
232 steps descends hence to the left bank of the Gers, by which we
may regain the bridge and the station.
From Auch to Toulouse, see p. 79.
4'JM. St. JeaH'te-Comtal; 54' .^ M. Ortholas ; 56' .^ M. V hle-
de-Soe': 61 M. Mhaiide (Hotel Tartas) . a small town with the re-
mains of fortifications , a mined castle, and an interesting church
of the loth cent.; 66' .^ M. I.aas; 69 M. Houi/et : 71 M. Mielan;
76 M. ^'iltero)iif(t'-!<ur-Arros. The Pyrenees, which have already
been in siglit for some time, are now, in clear weather, very
flistinctly seen linriiig the descent into the valley of the Adour.
79', 2 M. Jiabastens- de - liiyorre . a small town to the left , at
the siege of which Blaise de Montiuc , the famous and terrible op-
ponent of the ('alvinists , received a frightful wound in the face,
which obliged him to wear a mask for the rest of his life (1570-77).
In revenge he ordered a general massacre, from which only four
persons, two of them Catholics, escaped.
BlUVK. 7. lioule 1-2. 91
The train now crosses the Aduur and turns to the S. 84 M. 17c-
Biyorit. a town with oTOOinhab.. the junction of a line to Moncnx
ip. 59) ; 86 M. Vujo : 99 M. Andrest.
95 M. Tarbe* (see p. 112).
12. From Limoges (Paris) to Toulouse.
218 M. Rail\vav in 8I/3-I2 lirs. (lares 39 tV. 95, 3() Ir. 25. 21 fr. 40e.). —
Tlie traveller should arrange so as to traverse the part of the line between
Brive and Lexos by day.
A new and more direct line (ca. 59 M.) is being constructed from
I.imoges to Brive via (38 M.) Uzerche, prettily situated on the Vezere,
with an interesting Romanesque church and numerous castellated man-
sions of the 13- 16th centuries.
JJmofies, see p. 35. The line passes below the town by a tunnel
1085 yds in length. 12", ^1- yejcon. with a church of the 12th and
15th cent., and a chateau in the style of the 16th century. Line to
Perigueux, see p. 38.
18 M. Ln Meyze ; 21 M. Champshni.r : 26 M. .S/. Yrlei.r. a town
of 7600 inhab.. where the first French quarries of kaolin or porcelain
clay were discovered in 1765. possesses an interesting church of
the 12-13th cent., with a single nave and three choirs.
31'/2 M. Coussac-Boniieval. with a chateau of the 15-16th cent.,
to the left: 35 M. St-Jitliev ; 38 M. Liibersac ; 42 .M. Pompadour,
with a chateau presented by Louis XV.. with the title of Marquise,
to his mistress, Antoinette Poisson. Then, after three more viaducts,
180, 120, and 60 ft. in height respectively, the line descends,
crossing several affluents of the Vezere. to i48' 9M.) Mf/nols-Saint-
Sofve. \t (52 M.) Objaf sve Join the line from Thiviers (p. 38).
Beyond (56 M.) Le Bunj and (58 .M.) Vaietz- we i-ross the Ve'zhe and
its tributary the Correze.
63 M. Brive (Buffet: Hotel de Boideaux) , a very ancieiit town
with 15,700 inhab., where Gundebald was proclaimed king of Aqui-
taine in 585. It was the birthplace of Cardinal Dubois and Marshal
lirtine and has a statue of the latter. The chief local trade is in
truffles. In the middle of the town stands a Gothic church of the
1 l-12th cent., with nave and aisles of equal height.
From l!rive to TuUe. Clermont-Ferrand , etc.. see R. 34B: to Thiviers,
y. :!8.
Fro.m Hrjvk to I'auoiis (Jlontauhan), 75 M. , a direct railway is now
in progress, passing (25 31.) SouiUac fLion d'Or), with a church in the
Byzantine style, and Oourdon (Ecu df France), situated on a height with
remains of fortifications. — Catiors, see p. 88.
From Brive to Pkrigvev.x (Coutras, Bordeau.x) , 45 M. . railwav in
1^/4-33/4 hrs. (fare.s 8 fr. 8r). G fr. 65. 4 fr. 85c.). This line soon euter.s the
valley of the Vi'zire , which it crosses and follows for a considerable
distance. 13 M. Terrasson, a small commercial town with a C4othic church
and the ruins of an abbey; 201/^ M. /.a liacliellerie, a large village on a
vine-clad slope, beyond which we quit the Vezere; 361/2 M. fit. Pierre-de-
Cttignac: 39 JI. .Vi'versac, where the line to .\gen fp. 65) diverges. —
45 .M. Ph-iguenx, see p. 39.
9'2 1. l,'o"/c IJ. liUlAMADOri;. From iJinoges
Beyoiul r>rive. where the most interesting and picturesque part
of the route begins, the train passes through two tunnels, the
second 1550 yards long. At a distance, first on the left and then
on the right, are the ruins of the Chateau de Tnrenne (see below).
73 M. Turenne. 1' 4M. to the E. of the small and ancient town
of that name. This was the capital of the 'vicomte" from whicli
the celebrated Marshal Turenne (d. 1685"i took his title. The ruins
of his Chf'ileai' consist of two imposing towers situated on high
and precipitous rocks; the older of the two (loth cent.) is round,
the other (14th cent.) is square.
76 M. iJuutte-Uoutes. Farther on, to the left, is the plateau ou
which stands the village of I'liy-d' hsolu. the probable site of the
Celtic town of U.veUvdunttm, taken by Caesar B C. 50 (see also p. 94
and 246). -~ 80'/a M. St. Denis -prh- Ma rtel (diligence iu 2'/4hrs.
to BeauUtu, with a flue IJomanesque church of the ll-13th cent.).
We now reach the picturesque * Vnlley of the Dordogne. The
line crosses the ri^er and ascends the left side of the winding valley,
overhung by rocks more than 600 It. high. The Buisson line runs
on the other side. Beyond (85 M.) Monfnilent. we reach the rocky
and barren plateau which separates the valley of the Dordogne from
that of the C(?le. - 92*,2 M. liocumadour. The village lies 1^/., M.
to the S.W. (omnibus, 50 c).
Rocamadour Ci«o« d'Or; Ifoire-Daine), romantically situated in a ravine,
Ijoundeil by rocky walls 400 t't. high, to which the houses cling, is one
(if tlie most ancient pilgrim-resorts in France, especially frequented in
mediaval times. Above the houses are the cliurcli and chapels, and
still higher is an ancient castle.
To reach the church \vc climb two steep flights of steps, with 140
and 60 steps respectively, and another of 7.5 steps leads thence to the
Chapel of tlie Virgin.
The C/iiirch, an early Gutliic building, consists of two parts, the par-
ochial church, or l^t. Sauvcur, and the subterranean cJiurch , or Chapel
of St. Amadour. The former has two aisles without transepts; the high-
altar stands in the middle of the apse, witli a chapel im each side. The
walls are entirely covered with paintings, portrait.-:, and inscriptions,
commemorating illustrious pilgrims, among them St. Louis, Charles IV..
Louis XL, and other kings of France. The Chapel of St. Amadour, a
hermit who is said to have lived here in the 1st cent., is smaller than the
church above it, but is adorned in the same fashion.
The Chapel of the Virgin dates only from the 1.5th cent, and has lieen
partly rebuilt in our time. Its internal decoration is very rich. The
modern stained-glass windows are by Thevenot. On the altar is a small
black image of the Virgin, of wood , ascribed to Zacchseus the Publican,
who is said to have brought it with him when he retired to this district.
Among tlu' other chapels is the ('hapel oj St. Michael, near that of tin-
Virgin. On the wall bordering its terrace are a colossal statue and a
huge sword. Thi.'i swiird is said to be an imitation of I'oland's famous
''DurandaT. which according to tradition was vowed liv tlie Paladin to
the Virgin, l>roughi heie after his death, and stolen in the 12th century.
The Castle, which stands much higher up, was built in the Middle
Ages to defend the shrines, and has been partly reconstructed. It now
serves as a clergy-house.
97 M. Ornmat (pop. 4000); 107'/.^ M. Ani^ier. with an interesting
church and the remains of a 16th cent, chateau. Beyond (112 M.)
to Toulouse. KIGKAC. I. lloule /2. 95
J.e Pournel, we desceiiil by two tmiiiels aiul a viaduct into tlic valley
(if the Ct'lc'. a tributary of the Lot.
1 19 M. Figeac (Hotel des Ainbas^adeurs, near the market-place;
//. )le.^ I Vj_i/'i.<;^ '"■.'«. Allee iles Plataues, on the left bank of the C^l<^),
ail olil old town of 7400 iiihab. on tlie right bank of theCele. is badly
built, but possesses some interesting l;i-14th cent, houses. The Ave-
nue Ganibetta leads from the station to the principal bridge and to the
Rue (janibetta, which ends at the Place du Marche. To the right of
the bridge is an Obetitik to the memory of CkampolMon. the Egyp-
tologist, a native of the town (1790-1832).
The Church of St. Saitveiir il'2-14th cent.) has a transept with a
central tower surmounted by a clumsy dome, and a modern W. tower.
Inside are two fine Corinthian capitals supporting holy-water basins,
the fonts, and, on the right, a large low chapel of the 13th cent.,
with aisles, and containing some fine bas-reliefs in wood.
In a narrow street on the left, at the beginning of the Rue Gam-
bi'tta, is the Old Palnii' de .Jiij<tice \[\x\\ cent.).
Sotre-Dnme-du-Vny. in the highest part of the town, beside
the college, is also a church of the 12- 14th cent., with a modern
steeple. There is no transept, but the aisles extend all the way
round. Its'chief attraction is a large and magnificent *.4//ar Screen,
of the latter part of the 18th cent., in perfect preservation and en-
closing two pictures and two statues.
From Figeac to AnriUac, etc.. see It. 35.
We now pass through two tunnels, the first 1350 yds. long, into
the beautiful valley of the Lot. Heyi'ud another tunnel we cross the
river: on the right is the new line to Cahors (see belowi.
123 -M. Capdenac (Unffet-Udtel). The town, which stands some
way off. occupying a steep eminence on the right bank of the Lot,
is another ilaimant to be the Roman Uxellodunum (p. 92,i. In any
case it was an important place in the Midille .\ges. and it still has
remains of fortifications, pointed gateways, a keep, etc. Sully had
a chateau here, but nothing remains of it.
From Capdenac to Roilez and Bhiers, see R. 13; to Axrillac. seep.'i54,
Fr.oM C\PDENAC TO Cahoes, 4o M., railway in 2-4 hrs. (lares 8 fr. 8-5.
(i tV. Go. 4 t'r. 8.JC.). This line descends the interesting valley of the Lot.
T)ie eliiel' stations are (I0V2 M' C'ajarc and (23V2 'I-l •'?'• Cirq-!a-Popie,
the latter very picturesquely situated on the left bank of the river, with
a ruined castle and a fine loth cent, chtirch. There are several other
castles on the steep heights bordering the Lot, notably the Chdieau de
CJneviifen , of the 13-16th cent., near .St. Cirq. — 4j M. Cahorf, see p. 88.
Beyond Capdenac the railway ascends considerably, traversing
several small tunnels and viaducts and affording a succession of
fine views. 128 .M. yau:<.oar: LM'j .VI. Stnlles-Coiirbntier; 134 M.
Villeneure. We now cross the Areiirou.
141 .M. Villefranche-de-Rouergue (Hotel Sotie-Dnme', a com-
mercial town with 9800 iiihab.. was a rich and important place in
the .Middle .\ges, when it liistinguished itself in the wars with Eng-
land. In the 16th cent, it was noted for its devotion t<i Protestant-
94 /. Route 1-2. NAJAC. From Limoges
ism. Three times in the 15-17th cent, it was ravaged by the plague,
ami in 1643 it became the centre of the insurrection ot'theCroquants,
or peasants who revolted against the exactions of the Intendants.
The chief sights of the town are the Church of Notre-Dame (i3-
16th cent.) and an old Carthusian Convent, converted into a hospi-
tal, with pretty cloisters in the florid Gothic style.
The line next skirts the Aveyron. sometimes on one bank, some-
times on the other. At (148 M.) Monteils. the valley becomes highly
picturesque . forming a rocky and wooded gorge in which no less
than nine bridges and nine tunnels are passed. Then, to the right,
we obtain a magnificent view of Najac and its castle.
151 M. Najac (Hot. des Voyageurs), a small town on a height,
with a *CaKfle, the remains of which are very striking as seen from
the valley. To reach it we pass under the line, cross the river a little
farther on. ascend by a path to the left, and turn to the right at the
top (' 4 hr.). Founded in the 12th cent., the castle was rebuilt in the
midtlle of the 13lh. It stands on a bold cliff, washed on three sides
by the Aveyron, commanding the valley. It was sold at the Revo-
lution and has since been partly demolished to supply building
materials. It now belongs to the .Jesuits, and to inspect the interior
we must obtain permission from the 'Freres' (to the left before
reaching the castle). The chief part is the keep, which is 100 ft.
in height and contains some line rooms. The two enceintes are
flanked with square and round towers, and afford pretty views. —
The Church dates from the IStli century.
Recrossing the Aveyron and passing under the town by a tun-
nel, we obtain another very striking view of the castle on the left.
Three more tunnels and three bridges are then traversed. At (158 M.)
Lci Gue'pie, the ruins of a 16th cent, chateau are seen to the left.
Beyond it the valley expands. — 163 M. Lexos (Buffet).
Feom Lkxos to Montaubak, 41 M., railway in 21/4-23/4 hrs. (fare*
8 t'r. 10. 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 45 c). The line follows the rocky and picturesque
valley of the Aveyron, crossing the river several times. Beyond (4 M.)
FeneyroU is a short tunnel. 8 M. <S7. Antonin has a curious Hotel de Ville
of the 12th century. 16 M. Penne, a picturesque town dominated by the
ruins of a 15th cent, chateau. 201 ;> 31. Brvniqiiel has a chateau of the
Middle Ages and the Renaissance, lately restored. 24 M. Montricoiix, with
remains of a 13th cent, castle. The train now quits the Aveyron. 281 /2 M.
ytgrepelifft , a small town on the left bank of the Aveyron, devoted to
Protestantism in the Religious \Vars, w as sacked by Louis XIII. in 1622.
— 32 M. St, L'tieniie-de- Tulmont; 38 M. Slontaiiban - Yille - Xouvelle ; 41 M.
Mnntaiihan- Ville -Bourbon (see p. 70).
Our route now ascends the valley of an affluent of the Aveyron.
170 M. Vindrac. In the distance to the left is the town of Cordes.
From Vindbac to Cordks , 3i/o M., diligence 50 c, free to travellers
to or from Gaillac (p. 96), Albi , and places beyond. Vindrac being only
served by a few slow trains, time may be saved by taking a private con-
veyance from Le.vos to Cordes (7 fr.). — Cordes appears more and more
picturesque as we approach it. IJelow it, at the foot of tlie hill, is the
village of /-w Cahanes (Hotel), whence we may ascend direct on foot. By the
road, which winds round the X. side of the hill (to the left), the distance
to Toidoice. ' ALBI. /. lioute 12. 95
is nearly a mile. — Cordes (Hotel, near llio cluirch), with 2100 inhab.,
perched on an isolated hill , is an ancient and highly interesting town,
tlie general look of which takes us back to the Middle Ages. It still
retains its ramparts of the 13th cent, and several fine houses of the
t3-14th centuries. The omnibus stops at the S. end of the town, not far
from the principal gate, which lies to the \V. above Les C'abanes. The
street leading fnmi the gateway to the right passes the Maisons clii Grand-
Ecui/er, du Orand -Veneur , du Grand - Fauconiiier, and other interesting
mediaeval houses, with Gothic windows. The first two are adorned with
alto - reliefs , while the third, restored and converted into the Hotel de
Ville , is specially remarkable for its trefoil and rose windows. Tlie
Church, in the second of the streets which intersect the town from W.
to E., also dates from the 13-14(h century. It has a fine nave and is deco-
rated with polychrome painting and modern stained glass. The gateway
at the end of the Rue de I'Hfitel - de -Ville is of more recent date. AVe
may walk round the ramparts, which contain two other ancient gate-
ways and command a fine view of the valley of the Ceron and the sur-
rounding heights.
We now cross two more viaducts and pass through a tunnel
1B40 yds. long. Beyond (175 M.) Donunzar there is a high %'iaduct
over the Vere, affording a pretty view. 178 M. Cohuzac, followed
by a tunnel 780 yds. long. On the right bank are two chateaux of
tlie 15-16th cent., and on the left bank is another. 182 M. Tessoii-
nieres (Buft'et). Continuation of the railway to Toulouse, see p. 9H.
Feom Tessonnieres to .Vlbi. 10 M., railwav in 25-35 min. (fares 1 fr. 9.J,
1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c).
This line enters the valley of the Ttir)i and crosses that stream.
4 M. Marsnc. To the left is the village of C'asfelnnu -de- Levis,
dominated by a 13th cent, tower. 160 ft. high. Farther on. also on
the left, we see the imposing cathedral of .\lbi.
10 M. Albi (Hotel Cassagnes. Place du \'igan). an ancient town
with 21.2'24 iiihab.. the capital of the department of the Tarn, and
the seat of a bishopric, lies on the left bank of the Tarn, and gave
its name to the famous sect of the Albigenses and to the war whicli
deluged the South of France with blood from 1209 to 1229.
From the Gare d'Orl^ans. which is connected with the Gare du
Mifli (1 -M. distant, see below) by a loop-line crossing the river, we
enter the town by the Boulevard de la Gare and the Boulevard La-
^erouse (left). The latter ends at the Place Lap^rouse, in which
stands a h\om<i Statue of LaTperouse, the famous but unfortunate
navigator, who was a native of Albi (1741-88). — Behind this
Place are a fine promenade and (.to the left) the Palais <le .Instice.
The Rue de Verduse leads direct from this point to the —
*Cathedeal of St. Cecili.\ . built between the end of the 13th
and the end of the loth cent., and one of the finest and most re-
markable churches in the S. of France. Its peculiar character is
due to the fact that it was constructed with the view of serving as
a fortress as well as a church, and to its being entirely of brick, with
the exception of the porch. The works which defended the ap-
proaches have disappeared as well as the machicolations of the huge
^^ . tower, but the latter, which is destitute of a spire and his no ex-
96 /. HoKte 1-J. ALBI. " From Limoges
teriial opeiiiiigs in its lower part, still looks like a keep. The style
of the church is Gothic, but its plan is Romanesque. It has a
single nave, without aisles or transept, and two choirs. The ex-
terior is very plain, the bare walls, 125 ft. in height, having neither
turrets nor sculptures. The *S. Porch, however, which is the prin-
cipal entrance, is a magnificent structure of the loth cent, ap-
proached by a double flight of steps aud forming a kind of canopy
with four arches, surmounted by rich open-work carving.
Interior. After the general heaviness of the exterior, the interior of
file church allbrds an agreeable surprise. The *>Rood Screen is a marvel of
loth cent, sculpture, considered to be almost without a rival. Its delicate
lace-like forms are all the more remarkable from the fact that the stone of
which it is made is hard and brittle. The ornanieutation also inelade.s
statues under beautiful canopies, graceful pinnacles, etc. The Ambttlatori/, or
Cloister surrounding the choir, is scarcely inferior in richness and beauty ; its
e.xterior is decorated with 72 e.\quisife statuettes of angels and with statues
of prophets and other Bible characters. Above the doors are C'onstantine
and Charlemagne, and inside are the Apostles. Both these splendid works
were executed between 147.3 and 1.502, under the direction of a bishop
(Louis I.) of the family of Amboise , who was noted for his love of art
and good taste, while it was his nephew and successor (1502-13), who em-
ployed Italian artists to paint the scenes from the Bible which adorn
the vaulting. The style of these paintings, however, is not quite in
keeping with tliat of the building and the sculptures. The sadly liamaged
paintings in the second choir, representing the Last Judgment, date from
the 14th cent., while some of the chapels contain others of the 15th cen-
tury. The chapels, 28 in n\imber, are inserted between the buttresses
of the church in two stages. The pulpit, in stucco and marble, was made
by Italians in 1776; the organ-ease in 1736. In the chapel of the apse
is a line modern statue of the Virgin.
The ArchUphfopitl, Palncf. to the N. E. of the cathedral, by the-
riverside, is a vast building of the 14th cent., in the form of a
fortified chateau with a keep. — .\ little to the E. of the Cathedral
is the Church of St. Salri . dating mainly from the 15- 16th cent.,
but standing on foundations of an earlier period. It has a tower of
the I3th cent., over the N. transept, and a Romanesque cloister on
the S. side, visible from the interior. ^ Continuing our rotite to
the E. we reach the Place <l>( \'ignn. which forms the centre of the
town. A boulevanl descends hence to the river and the Faubourg
de la Madeleine, with the (iare dit Midi (see above and p. 80).
The Rue Timbal , also begitmiug at the Place du Vigaii, contains
two houses of the Renaissance.
The Ligne du Midi is continued to (10 31.) Carmaux, with 8000 inhab.,
and important coal-mines. — From Albi to CaHrea (B'darieit.r, Castel-
nait'l'iry, Afontanhan), see pp. 79, 70.
Continuation of Railw.w to Toulouse. Beyond Tessonnieres
we follow the valley of the Tarn for some distance. 185 M. Gaillnc,
a town of 83150 inhab.. has two Romanesque and Gothic churches,
some houses of the Ir5-16th cent., and a bronze statue of General
dHautpoul (1754-1807). - 191 M. L/.s/«-fr,4/6/, another little town
to the left, boasts of a fountain of the r2-I6th centuries. The line
crosses the Tarn. — 195 M. H(ibn.-<fe».*, with ruK^O inhab.. possesses
to Toulouse. DECAZEVILLE. /. Route 13. 97
a Romanesque and Gothic church decorated with frescoes of the
i4-15th ceiituries. We now cross the Agout.
200 M.St. ^Mij;>ice-dit-7'a?'«,with a church, ofthe 14th cent., which
has lately fallen down, only the W. front remaining. For the line to
Montauban , see p. 70. Our line quits the yalley of the Tarn and
runs through a tunnel. Beyond (208 M.) Gragnague, the Pyrenees,
which in clear weather have already been visible, come prominently
into view. 132 M. Montrabe'. — 218 M. Toulouse, p. 70.
13. From Capdenac to Kodez and to Beziers or
Montpellier.
Raiiavay to Rodez, 41 JI. in 21/3-21/2 Iirs. (fares S Ir. 30, G Ir. 20, 4 fr.
55 c.)- ; from Rodez to Beziers, 120 SI. in 6I/4-71/4 lirs. (tares 23 fr. 58,
17 fr. 90, 13 fr. 15 c); from Rodez to Montpellier, 143 M. in 63/4-9 lirs.
(fares 28 fr. 40, 21 fr. 30, 15 fr. 65 c).
Capdenac, see p. 93. This line, parts of which are interesting,
ascends the valley of the Lot, commanding a series of pleasant
views. — 5 M. St. Maitin-de-Boulllac. To the left are the ruins of
the chateau of La Rogue- Bouillac. — 7'/2M. Panchot , with zinc
and copper works. We now quit the valley of the Lot by a tunnel and
reach (9 M.) Viviez, a small industrial town with coal-mines and
zinc works.
A branch -line runs from Viviez to (21/^ M.) Decazeville (Udtel iles
Houillh-es), a town of about 10,700 inhab., tlie centre of the coal-fields of
the AveyroH , which occupy an area of 30 sq. M. and rank third among
the coal -fields of France. Here and at Finny, 3 JI. farther on, are spots
where the coal crops out on the surface of the ground and forms beds
more than 130 ft. thick. With these important mines are connected smelt-
ing-works, blast-furnaces, foundries, and forges. The town owes its name
to the Due Decazes (1780-1860), a minister of Louis XVIII., and the chief
promoter of these works, to whom a bronze statue, by Dumont, has been
erected here.
The line now ascends considerably. 12 M. Auhin , a town of
9000 inhab., with coal and iron mines and iron-works. IS'/a ^1-
Cransac, with mineral springs. About 5 M. to the S. is the hand-
some Chateau de Bournazel (15 -16th cent.). We now traverse a
busy district and pass through two short tunnels. 17V2 M- Auzits-
Aussibals; 22 M. St. Christophe; 27 M. Marcillac. At (30 M.) Nuces
we reach a high plateau, commanding a fine and extensive view.
We then cross a viaduct 115 ft. high and reach (35 M.) Salles- la-
Source, a large and picturesque village with line cascades and grottoes.
41 M. Rodez (1350 ft.; *Buffet; Udtel Biney) , a town of 15,375
inhab., the ancient capital of the Ruteni and later of the Rouergue,
is the chief town of the department of the Aveyron and the seat of a
hishop. It stands on an eminence, tlie base of which is washed by
the Aveyron, i^j^ M. from the station.
The Cathedral or Notre-Dame of Rodez is an imposing fabric
built between 1277 and 1535. As is the case with most of the
Baedeker. Southern France. 7
98 I. Route 13. KODEZ.
churches of Southern France, the exterior is bare and severe in aspect.
The \V. front, flanked by two massive towers, is without a portal, but
has a grand Flamboyant rose-window and an arcade in the same style,
surmounted by a Renaissance pediment. The *Tower, beyond the
Is. entrance, is square below but above consists of three octagonal
stages remarkable for the richness of their decoration and flanked
by four turrets with statues of the Evangelists. On the platform
is a statue of the Virgin. The interesting side portals, in the Gothic
style, are m\ich dilapidated.
Among the chief points of interest in the interior are the Gallery, in
the Renaissance style, extending into the aisles; the Rood-Loft, in the
same style, now in the S. transept, but formerly at the entrance to the
choir; the fine Gothic Stalls; the Organ-Case in the N. transept; on the
same side, a Sarcophagus of the 5th or 6th cent., and a Virgin of the
14th cent, in the first chapel on the N. side of the choir; the Tombs of
the bishops, from the Middle Ages down to our own time; an Altar with
a fresco of the 6th cent, in the apsidal chapel ; au .4Ko-r(?it>/ of the Agony
in the Garden, and a Holi/ Sepulchre, in the Renaissance style, in two
chapels to the right of the nave, one of which is enclosed by a fine
screen in the Flamboyant style.
The Bishop's Palace, to the N. of the cathedral, dates from the
17th cent. , but still retains a massive mediaeval tower and a wall
with Romanesque arches. In the small square adjoining it is a bronze
Statue uf Samson, by Gayrard of Rodez. In the Place de la Cite,
a little to the N. of the cathedral, is a bronze Statue of Mgr. Affre
(1793-1848), archbishop of Paris, who was born in the district.
The town contains some noteworthy old houses. The Hotel
d' Armagnac , in the Place de TOlmet, to the S.E. of the cathedral,
is a Renaissance edifice, with numerous medallions. Adjacent is
a house adorned with an Annunciation: a few paces to the right is
another, with an Annunciation and medallions, and a little lower
down is one with Flamboyant arcades.
The line now ascends the valley of the Aieyron, crossing the
river several times and passing numerous coal-mines. From (52 M.)
Bertholene a diligence runs through the pretty valley of the Lot
(views) to (11 M.) Espalion (Hotel do France), an ancient and pic-
turesque town, with 3935 inhab. , an old chateau, and the ruins of
two others. — 69 M. Se've'rac-le-Chdteau , and hence to Bezien or
to 3/e?ide see pp. 378, 382.
3
■ 38 39ftc d s qnent Jes d^arten ents Les noms dts die/^ liatT sar,
oADoidoaiUN o8.roilPZi%o9.raiUaI,60Xo7.ere:7ianault.;2j:aru,73ATeTron;74a-otJo.raxR ct Gaiomiejfalot-ct Giuo
77.Guoiu\e,76J,aiulesJ9Basses-Pyi-<m*eK,80PerSi81JLiiUt-s-Pyi^iiecs,82}Iautr-(;aiomie,^^
II. THE PYRENEES.
14. From Bayonne to San Sebastian 101
From St. Jean-de-Luz to the Rhune. 102. — From
Hendaye to Fuentarabia, 103. —The Haya. 103.
15. from Bayonne to Toulouse 104
I. From Bayonne to Pau 104
From Puyoo to St. Palais and to Maule'on, 105.
II. From Pau to Toulouse 109
Grotto of Gargas. Eneausse, 114.
16. From Pau to Oloron. Valine d'Aspe 115
St. Christau. 116 — Pic d'Anie, 117. — From Urdos
to Gabas. From Le Somport to Gabas, 118.
17. Eaux- Bonnes, Eaui-Chaudes, and their Environs 118
I. From Pau to Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes 118
II. Eaux-Bonnes 119
Excursions. To Eaux-Chaudes. Pic de Ger, 121.
— Pic de Goupey. Lac d'Anglas and Lac d'Uzi-
ous. Grand Pic de Gabi/.os. From Eaux-Bonnes
to Argeles (Cauterets), 122.
III. Eaux-Chaudes 122
Excursions. — Grotto of Eaux -Chaude.s. Gabas
and Bious-Artigues. Pic de Biscaou, 123. — Pic
du Midi d'Ossau. Lac d'Artouste, 124. — Baths
of Panticosa, 125.
18. Cauterets and its Environs 125
I. From Lourdes to Cauterets 125
St. Savin. Beaucens, 12G.
II. Cauterets 126
III. Excursions 130
To the Monue. To the Cabaliros. Lac Bleu or Lac
d'llleou. Lac de Gaube, 131. — Peguere, 131. —
Vignemale. Valley of Mercadaou, 132. — Pic de
Chabarrou. Pic d'Araillti and Pic de Labassa.
Valley of Lutour, 133. — Pic d'Ardiden. To Ga-
varnie by the mountains. Pic de Visco.s, iM. —
To Luz-St. Sauveur over the Col de Riou, 135.
19. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environs 135
I. From Lourdes to Luz and St. Sauveur (Bareges) 135
II. Luz and St. Sauveur 135
III. Excursions 137
Pic de Viseos. Pic de Nere. Pic de Bergous, 137.
— Cirque de Gavarnie, 138. — Breche de Roland
and Col du Taillon. Pic du Marbore, 139. —
Mont Perdu. Vignemale. Pimenc. Cirque de
Troumouse, 140.
100
20. Bareges and its Environs 141
I. From Lourdes to Bareges 141
II. Bareges 141
III. Excursions 143
Pic de Ne're. Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 143. — Lac
Bleu. Pic d'Ayre. Pic de Neouvielle, 144. —
To Bagneres -de -Bigorre via the Col du Tour-
raalet. 145.
21. Bagneres-de-Bigorre and its Environs .... 145
I. From Tarbes to Bagneres-de-Bigorre . . . 145
II. Bagneres-de-Bigorre 146
III. Excursions 148
To the Monne. Pie de Montaigu, 148. — Vallee
de Lesponne and Lac Bleu. Pic du Midi de
Bigorre. Pene de Lhe'ris. To Bagneres-de-Lu-
chon via the Col d'Aspin, 149.
22. Bagneres-de-Luchon and its Environs . . . . 150
I. From Montr^jeau (Tarbes) to Bagneres-de-
Luchon 150
To St. Bertrand-de-Cominges. 1.50.
II. Bagneres-de-Luchon 151
Cascade de Juzet and Cascade de Montauban.
Castelvieil, 154.
III. Excursions 154
Lac d'Oo, 154. — Port d'Oo, 155. — Portillon d'Oo.
Pic de Cecire'. Pic de Monsegu. Le Monne', 156.
— Pic d'Antenac. Superbagneres. Vallee du Lys
and Rue d'Enfer, 157. — Lac Vert. Pie de Ba-
canere and Pic de Burat. Poujastou, 158. —
Port de Venasque and Port de la Piquade, 159.
— Col de la Glere. Pie d'Entecade. Pic de
Nethou (Monts-Maudits), 160. — Pic Posets, 161.
23. From Boussens (Toulouse or Tarbes) to Aulus via
St. Girons 162
Excursions from St. Girons, 162. — Valle'e del'Arac.
Seix. Pic de Montvallier, 163. — Excursions from
Aulus. 164.
24. From Toulouse to Foix, Tarascon, Ussat, and Ax . 164
From Tarascon to Vicdessos. 166. — Montcalm and
Pic d'Estax. Grotto of Lombrive, 167. — Excur-
sions from Ax. Pic St. Barthelemy. To Quillan,
168. — To Andorra, 169.
25. From Carcassonne to Quillan. Upper Valley of the
Aude. Valley of the Rebenty 170
Rennes-les-Bains, 171.
26. The Eastern Pyrenees 172
I. From Narbonne to Perpignaii and Port-Bou . 172
Estagel. 174. — Excursions from Collioure, 175. —
Excursions from Banyuls, 176.
ST. JEAN-DE-LUZ. //. Route 14. 101
II. From Peipigiiaii to Prades and to Puyceida .
From Prades to the Baths of Molitg, 176. — To
Le Vernet. Canigou, 177. — Planes. Puigmal,
178. — From Bourg -Madame to Les Esealdas.
Puy de Carlitte, 179.
176
III. From Perpignan to Am^lie- les -Bains and La
Preste
Col du Perthus, 179.
179
14. From Bayonne to San Sebastian.
34 31. Railway in li/>-3V4 hrs. : fares to (22 iM.j Hendaye, on the fron-
tier, 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 30, 2 fr". 40 e. ; thence to (12 JI.) San Sebastian, 2 fr. 70,
2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 85 c, in the reverse direction 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 5 e. —
French money is accepted at San Sebastian, the franc and centime corres-
ponding to the Spanish peseta and centimo.
Bayonne, see p. 60. — This route is highly attractive. The train
traverses a short tunnel, crosses first the Adour by a bridge com-
manding a fine view , and then beyond a second tunnel , the Nioe.
To the left diverges the line to Pau (R. 15) and to St. Jean-Pied-de-
Port (p. 63). — 6 M. Biarritz , Station de la N(?gresse , nearly 2 M.
from the Baths (p. 62). To the right, a little farther on, we have a
view of the Lac de Mouriscot and the sea; and beyond another
short tunnel we reach (9 M.) Bidart, a prettily situated sea-bathing
resort. We now approach the coast, enjoying a fine view of the
sea. 10'/2 M. Guethary. another small bathing-place, beyond which
the mountains dominated by the Rhune (p. 102) appear to the left.
14 M. St. Jean-de-Luz. — Hotels. d'Akgleterre, on the beach ;*de
France, near the church, moderate; de Paris, at the station. Furnished
Apartments may also be obtained. — Cafe Suissf., in the Maison Louis XIV.
— Post and Telegraph Office, Kue St. Jacques, near the Boulevard. —
Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 25, costume 20, towel 5 c., etc.
English Church (Ch. of the Nativity); Chaplain, Rev. Th. J.Cooper, B.D.,
65 Kue Gambetta.
St. Jean-de-lAiz, a quiet little seaport and bathing-resort, with
3960 inhab. , is situated on a bay at the mouth of the Nivelle.
From the 14th to the middle of the 17th century, the town enjoyed
considerable prosperity, with at one time a population of 12,000, one fourth
of whom were engaged in the whale-fishery of the Bay of Biscay and in
the eod-lishery on the banks of Newfoundland. But with the disappear-
ance of the whale from the bay, the loss of Newfoundlandiby France,
and tJic encroachments of the sea which impaired the safety of tlie port,
the place rapidly declined. Vigorous attempts have been made to pro-
tect the entrance of the bay by breakwaters , but so terrible is the sea
on this iron-bound coast that in a storm of 1822 it completely annihi-
lated a breakwater 150yds. long, 16yds. wide at its base, and 11yds.
high. Since 1876 still more considerable works have been carried out at
the licadland of Socoa , and so far they have successfully resisted the
sea. — In 1660 the town witnessed the marriage of Louis XIV. to the
Infanta Maria Theresa.
The town itself is of little interest to strangers. Near the har-
bour, to the right as we arrive, is the Place Louis XIV., with the
102 11. Route 14. HENDAYE. From Bayonne
Maisoyi Louis XIV., in which the king lodged on the occasion of
his marriage. The somewhat peculiar edifice, with its two square
(;orbelIed towers, dates from the 16th century. Farther on, to the
left, is the Chateau de I' Infante, a large mansion of the 17th cent.,
with square towers at the corners, and a double tier of arcades on
the facade. It contains two paintings by Gerome, illustrating the
marriage (visitors admitted). — On the left side of the Grande Rue
or Rue Gambetta is the 13th cent. Church of St. John. Like all
Basque churches, it has galleries in the nave for the men, the area
being reserved for the women. In the interior is a large gilded reredos,
in the Spanish fashion, adorned with twenty statues.
The Rue Garat, passing the E. end of the church, leads direct
to the Bay with the Bathing- Place. The bay is almost circular in
shape, partly enclosed by a breakwater and piers; it is bounded on
the right by high cliffs, and on the left by the little harbour of
Socoa. The beach is good, but slopes rapidly and is covered with
shingle. There are two Casinos , one in the middle of the bay , the
other at the end to the right, whence the Boulevard Gambetta (in
which a picturesque Moorish Villa attracts attention) leads back to
the Rue Gambetta. Turning there to the right, we regain the rail-
way-station.
From St. Jeak-de-Luz to the Rhune, an easy and interesting excursion,
via Ascain, 31/2 M. to the S.E. , in the valley of the Nivelle. The ascent
takes 21/2 hrs. and may be made on horseback. Beyond the village we
ascend to the right for 1/2 hr. , by the N. slope of the mountain; then
turning to the right we reach (I/2 hr. more) a chalet; in another hour
we turn to the left beyond a second chalet, and zigzag to the top. The
Rhune (2950 ft.) , the flrst mountain of any importance at the W. end of
the Pyrenees, on the frontier of Spain, affords a splendid *View, extend-
ing over the valleys on the N. W. to the Atlantic and from W. to E.
over a succession of mountains beginning with the Haya and ending in
the Pic du Midi de Bigorre (p. 144), abotU 90 M. in a straight line. The
Rhune, on which there are still remains of fortifications, was the object
of desperate encounters in 1813, at the close of the Peninsular War. It was
not taken, but General Clauzel had to abandon it when his position was
turned on the E. by the Spaniards and threatened on the W. by Wellington.
The line next crosses the Nivelle, passes (15'/a M.) Vrruyne
and runs through a tunnel, '/4M. long, into the valley of the JBidas-
soa, which affords a magnificent view. To the left, on Spanish
territory, is the Haya, with its three peaks (see below); to the right
the mountain of Jaizquivel rising above a handsome modern cha-
teau, the beach of Ilendaye, the wide but sandy bed of the river,
and the picturesque Fuentarabia (see below).
22 M. Hendaye (Bvffet; Hotel de France, du Commerce, both
good but expensive; Hotel de la Gate), the last station on French
toil, a large but uninteresting village, V2 M. to the left, below the
station. The liqueur manufactured here is celebrated. The Sea-
baths (Hotel & Casino) are situated IV4 M- farther on, at the mouth
of the Bidassoa. The beach is good, but not much frequented.
Excursion to Fuentarabia. It is shorter to start from Hendaye, cross-
ing the Bidassoa, than from Irun, but we must ascend to the village to
io San Sebastian. IRUN. //. Route 14. 103
hire boats and there strike a bargain with the, boatmen (1 fr. a head
there and back is double the amount paid by the people of the place).
The Bidassoa is here about i/j 31. wide, and 21/0 M. at its mouth a little
way olV, near Cap du Figuier, which is in Spain. The navigation is however
impeded by sand-banks. This river forms for 8 01 931. the boundary between
France and Spain. Higher up, on the other side of the railway-bridge, is
the lie des Faisans or de la Conference , On which various interviews be-
tween sovereigns and ambassadors of France and Spain have taken place,
and the Treaty of the Pyrenees was concluded in 1659.
Fuentarabia (in French Fontarabie) is a decayed town of 3000 inhab.,
often a victim in the wars between France and Spain. It has not only a
picturesque but also a thoroughly Spanish appearance , such as is not to
be found in the modern San Sebastian. Its streets are very narrow and the
roofs of its houses project considerably. The houses are large buildings
with coats of arms and balconies of Iron-work , which bear witness to
the by-gone prosperity of the town. The population, of Basque origin,
is equally interesting. In the upper part of the principal street is the Church,
decorated with that luxurious bad taste which is characteristic of Spanish
churches, and beside it the Castle, almost in ruins and presenting nothing
noteworthy. The most ancient part, on the side of the river, dates from
the 10th century. There is a hne view from the top (25 c). A Casino,
on the bank of the river, olfers 'the same attractions as Monaco'. — The
Jaizquivel (2230 ft.; fine view), which rises above the town, may be as-
cended in li/o hour.
Shortly after leaving Hendaye we cross the Bidassoa and the
frontier.
23V2 M. Irun (Buffet) is an old Spanish town with about 5500
inhab., 3/4 M. to the E. of the station. Repeatedly ravaged by war,
it was bombarded by the Carlists in 1874, but relieved by General
Loma. Its chief object of interest is the church of Nuestra Senora
del Jnncal, of the 16th century. — Luggage is examined here.
Spanish time is 20 min. behind French time. Carriages are changed
at Irun, as the gauge of the Spanish lines is nearly one third wider
than that of the French lines. Travellers coming from Spain change
at Hendaye. — To Fuentarabia, see above.
The Haya (3245 ft. ; fine view) or Trots Couronnes (from its three peaks)
may be easily ascended in 3 hrs. from Irun, via a valley to the S., whence
after 40 min. we ascend to the left. The copper-mines on this mountain
were worked by the Romans.
We next cross a tributary of the Bidassoa , and traverse a
tunnel 530 yds. long, beyond which we enter a picturesque moun-
tainous region. 28'/a M. Renteria, a decayed town, with a church
with battlements. Beyond a bridge and another short tunnel we
catch a fine view of the Bay of Pasages, to the right.
29'/2 M. Pasages, a picturesquely-situated little town, has a safe
harbour, between the Jaizquivel and the Mont Ulia. The harbour,
at one time important, was later silted up by the Oyarzun. Recently,
however, the river has been diverted, and the bay dredged out to
the depth of 25 ft. , and Passages is expected to become one of the
centres of the wine-trade.
34 M. San Sebastian. — Hotels (all somewhat expensive). Grakd
Hotel de Londrbs, Avenida de la Libertad, first-class: Grand Hotel
CoNTiNEKTAL, HoTEL IsGLEs, on the beach ; Grand Hotel JEsclrra, Hotel
104 //. lioute U. SAN SEBASTIAN,
DE Arrese, Calle Santa Catalina. — Cafe Suisse, on the Promenado, Europa,
on the beach, both near the casino.
San Sebastian, with 19,000 inhab. , is picturesquely situated
on the Bay of Biscay, partly on a peninsula, and, though of ancient
origin , now presents the appearance of an entirely modern town.
Among the numberless hostile attacks and conflagrations from
which the town has suffered, the most destructive occurred in 1813
when it was sacked and burned by the British under General Graham.
Since then, however, it has been rebuilt on a regular plan, and the
new quarters present a handsome appearance.
Turning to the right as we leave the station, we skirt the Urumea,
which we cross by a bridge at the end of the Bay of Zurriola, not
accessible to ships and recently largely curtailed by gigantic em-
bankments. The Avenida de la Libertad, a handsome street, leads
hence to the Conche, another bay on which is the Harbour and the
much-frequented Sea-baths. This bay resembles that of Pasages
in having no communication with the sea except by means of a
narrow channel between the cliffs of Mont Orgullo (425 ft.), on the
right, and Mont Igueldo (785 ft.), on the left. The former, ter-
minating the peninsula on which the town stands, is crowned by a
fort, to visit which a special permit is required. The ascent takes
about ^/4 hr., and is rewarded by a fine *"View. A good view is also
obtained from Mont Igueldo. on which rises a lighthouse.
The beach of San Sebastian is admirably adapted for bathing.
At the end of the promenade, on the same side as Mont Orgullo, a
handsome *Caslno has been erected; and farther on is the Harbour,
of no great importance, but interesting to the stranger. The ascent
to the fort begins near this point. In the same neighbourhood is the
Renaissance Chnrch of St. Mary, remarkable for the florid richness
of its facade , and still more for its huge altars , in the Spanish
taste. — The Calle Mayor, opposite, leads to the Calle del Pozzo,
the promenade behind the casino, which is planted with trees, and
in the evening lighted by electricity. — Farther on, to the left, is
the Gothic Church of St. Vincent, dating from the 11th cent., with
altars resembling those in St. Mary's, but otherwise not remarkable.
To the left of the street leading to this church is the Place de la
Constitution, with the Casa Consistorial, or town hall. The arcaded
houses which surround it have balconies on all their stories; while
all the windows are numbered in view of the festivals celebrated
in the square. — - On the other side of the promenade are the Place
de Guipvzcoa, with the Government buildings and a square, in
the centre of the new quarter.
The Amphitheatre, outside the town, beyond tlie railway, is only re-
markable as the scene of the favourite bull-lights. These are announced
bfl'orchand, even in the neighbouring parts of France. The spectators,
excited almost to madness, are, to the stranger, a more curious sight
than the lights themselves. It should uot be forgotten that it is very
difficult to obtain accommodation in San Sebastian on such occasions.
105
15. From Bayonne to Toulouse.
I. From Bayonne to Fau.
66 M. Railway In 21/2-3V2 Its- (fares 13 ir. 30, 9 fr. 90, 7 fr. 25 c).
Bayonne, seep. 60. — This route is on the whole less interesting
than might have been expected; it passes at too great a distance
from the Pyrenees on the one side and on the other stretch fertile
but monotonous plains , covered with fields of maize. Quitting
IJayonne we follow the line to Spain (R. 14) through a tunnel and
across the Adour; then, after a second tunnel, ascend the valley of
that river, passing OVa M.) Le Qaz, (7 M.) Urcuit , (IOV2 M.) ^rt,
(13 M.) Pont de VArran, and (15 M.) Pont de la Bidouze. Beyond
(17 ''2 M.) Sanies , the valley of the Adour is exchanged for that of
its tributary, the Gave de Pau, which is crossed shortly before
(20 M.) OrfhevieUe. — 21 M. Peyrehornde is a small town with the
ruins of a 15th cent, castle. To the right is the Pic d'Anie (p. 117).
- 23V2M. L'Eglise; 26'/2 M. Labatut.
32 M. Puy6o (Buffet) is the junction for a branch -line to Dax
(p. 59). On the left bank of the river is (V4 M. ; 3 '/a M. from Salies,
see below) the village of Bellocg, overlooked by the ruins of a chateau.
From Puyod to St. Palais, ISi/o M., railway in IV2 I""- (fares 3 fr. 65,
2 fr. 75 c, 2 fr.). — The line traverses the (late de Pau and passes through
ii tunnel 735 yds. in length. 5 M. Salies - de - B6arn {Hot. de France and
iV Angleterre, Beausejour, etc.), a town of 5296 inhab., owes its name to its
salt springs, which have been utilised from a very early date and are
the richest in salt known. The springs are cold, and are used both for
drinking and bathing. The now Bath House is much frequented and is
open all the year round. — The line now crosses the Gave d'Oloron and
ascends its valley. 12i, 2 M. Autevielle is the junction for Blauleon (see
lielow). — 181/2 M. St. Palais (Inns) is a small place devoid of interest.
A diligence -route leads hence via Larceveau to (181 /.>M.) Ht. Jean-Pied-
de-Port (p. 63).
Fkom Prvoo TO Mauleon, 28i/-i M., railwav in I3/4-21/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr.
6.x 4fr. 20, 3 fr. 10 c). As far "as (I21/2 M") Autevielle, see above. —
15 M. Sauveterre-de-B£arn , a small town with considerable remains of a
chateau of the 12-13th cent., a church in the Romanesque and Gothic
styles and a ruined bridge with a tower of defence (14th cent.), aft'ording
a splendid view of the Pyrenees. — Tlie line then ascends the valley of
the Saison. — 28V2 M. Maul^on-Licbarre (Hut. Habiague), an uninteresting
little town on the Saison. A diligence-route leads hence to (8 M.) Tar-
dets (735 ft.; Hot. des Voyageurs), whence the Pic d'Orrhy (6615 ft.), af-
fording a splendid view, may be ascended via (10 M.) Larrau in 31/2 hrs.,
and thence to (18 M.) Oloron (p. 216).
Beyond (36 M.) Bnigts the valley becomes picturesque.
41 M. Orthez (Hot. de la Belle-JIotesse) , a finely situated town
of 6743 inhab. on the right bank of the Gave de Pau.
Orthez was in the 13th cent, the capital of Hearn, and until 1460 the
residence of the viscounts. Afterwards it became a focus of Protestantism,
under the protection of Jeanne d'Albrel, who founded a Calvinistic college
here, in which Theodore Beza \Tas a teacher. One fourth of the In-
Iiabitants are to this day Protestants. Marshal Soult was defeated by
Wellington on the neighbouring hills in 1814.
The only lions of Orthez are the mediaeval Bridge across the
Gave, with a tower at its centre, and the Tour de Moncade, a
remnant of the chateau of the viscounts of Beam. There is a fine
106 //. Route 15.
PAU.
From Bayonne
view of the Pyrenees from the higher parts of the town. — The-
next stations are (46V2M.) Argagnon, (50 M.) Lnrq, (oS'/aM.) Artix,
(56'/2 M.) Denguin, and (58 M.) Poey.
62V2 M. Lescar, though now it has only 1794 inhab., was a
town of importance in the 16th cent., and long the seat of a bishop.
The cathedral dates from the 12th and 16th cent., the castle partly
from the 14th. Lescar perhaps occupies the site of the ancient
Beneharnum , which gave name to the old province of Beam. —
Then, to the left —
66 M. Pau (Buffet, d^j. 3, D. SVa fr.).
Pan. — Hotels. Those of the first class are palatial establishments,
admirably situated, and providing every comfort, at a corresponding tariff.
H<3T. Gassion (PI. a; I>,4), Place Gassion; Hot. de France (PI. b; D,4),
Place Koyale; Beau-Sbjour (Pl.e;E,4), Rue du Lycee, in the S.E. out-
skirts of the town; Hot. de la Paix (PI. d;D,4), Place Koyale; Grakd-
HoTEL (PI. e; D, 2), Avenue du Grand-Hotel, with rooms looking to the S.
The above are specially for families passing the winter at Pau. At the
Hotel de France the charges are: R. on the 4th floor with view of the
Pyrenees, 6 fr., dej. 3 fr. 50, D. 5fr.; no pension. — Hot. de la Poste
(PI. f ; C, 3, 4), Place de Gramont, dej. 3i/", U- 4V" fr. ; du Commerce (PI. g;
I), 4), DE l'Europe (PI. h; D,4), DE LA DoKADE (Pl.i;D,4), Rue Prefec-
ture; Hot. Henri IV. (Pl.i; E,3), Place de la Halle, etc. — More unpre-
tending, Hot. de la Croix-Blanche (PI. k; D, 3, 4) , Rue de la Fontaine
(61/2-'^ fr- per day). — Fensitfns: Plante, Hattersley, Sarda, Guichard, Rue
Porte-Neuve (PI. E, F, 2, 3); Pitte, BeaufiU , Rue d'Orleans (PI. C,D,3);
Colbert, Barbey , Rue Montpensier (PI. C, D, 2, 3); ifoi/. Passage Plante
(PI. I), 2, 3), etc.
Apartments and Furnished Villas in great number in the town and
suburbs from 4(X) to 10,000 fr. for the season, which lasts from September
to May or June. For further particulars apply to the Syndicate Rue des
Cordeliers, 7. Its information is impartial and gratuitous; and it is
also charged with the settlement of diO'erences between strangers and
inhabitants. In hiring houses an inventory should be demanded.
Caf^s - Restaurants : Gassion^ at the hotel of that name; de la Dorade,
du Commerce, Rue Prefecture ; du Theatre, Place Royale, etc.
Cabs.
(Night tariff after 10 o'clock)
With one horse
Day I Night
- fr. 75
50
1 fr.
With two horses
Day I Night
1 fr.
1 fr. 25
half-dav, 20 fr. whole day
Drive within the octroi-limits . . .
" of 3 kil. (2 M.) beyond the
octroi
Per hour within radius of 3kil. . .
» 8 »(5M).
Luggage. 1 trunk 25 e. ; more, 50 c.
Carriages: "-Mylords', 3 fr. per hr., 10 fr.
Landaus, 4, 12, and 20 fr. (to be hired in all parts of the town).
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3), Rue des Arts 24.
Casino, near the Place Koyale, below the side next the station. — Clubs.
Anglais, Place Royale, Hotel de France (42 fr. per month); deV Union,
Place Royale, Cafe Champagne; National, same I'lace, on the side next
tlie station, etc.
Concerts given by the municipal orchestra, at the kiosque in the
Pare Beaumont or in the Casino.
Baths. Grand Etahlissement Ilydroth^rapique, Rue d'Orleans, 13 and 15 ;
also at Kue Aie.vandre-Taylor 10; etc.
Reading Rooms. La/on, Rue Henri IV. ; Cazaux, Lescudf, Rue Prefecture ;
liibaut, Rue St. Louis.
B^i Here?
/
//
Ctmetiere
\lm\ Haute l^ap«^^
^pr2, Rpbi's .T,eit)zid .
Laurdes ,
to Toulouse. PAU. //. lioute 15. 107
American Consul: J/;'. /. Morris Post. — British Vice-consul: Mr. A.
II. Foster- Barhaiii.
English Church Servise at St. Andrew's Church, Avenue du Grand-Hotel
(services I'roni October to May). Chaplain, the Rev. H. II. Dyke Acland-
Troiie, 31. A.
I'nit (620 ft.), a town of 30,624 inhab. , and the old capital of
Beam, is now the cbieftownofthe department of theBasses-Pi/rene'e*.
It occupies a splendid site on the right bank of the Gave du Pau, and
enjoys a delicious climate which renders it preeminent as a winter
resort, high in favour with the English. The mean temperature is
44° Fahr. in winter and 61° Fahr. for the whole year, i. e. , lower
than the means of Home, Hyeres , Cannes, Mentone and Nice, to all
of which, however, Pau is superior in its freedom from chronic
winds, especially tlie K. (except in summer), in the dryness of its air,
and the equability of its temperature.
Pan sprang up round a castle of the viscounts of Be'arn, dating
originally from about the 10th cent, and rebuilt in the 14th by Gaston
Phebus. It did not become a capital, however, until the loth cent.,
hut it attained great importance when its 'seigneur' Francois Phebus
was made king of Navarre in 1479, and still more, when, in 1527, his
third successor Henri d'Albret espoused Margaret of Valois , sister of
Francis I. of France. This charming and witty princess gathered round
her a brilliant court in which the Calvinists were well received. The
successors of Henri and Margaret were Antoine de Bourbon and Jeanne
d'Albret, under whom and their son, afterwards Henri IV. of France,
the zenith of prosperity was reached. Jeanne d'Albret was no ordinary
woman ; she had I'ame entiere au.\ choses viriles' and was able to sing
a Bearnaise song while giving birth to her son, in order, as his father
said, that he might be 'ni pleureur ni reehigne'. Antoine on his part
carried olV the infant to rub his lips with a clove of garlic, and to give
him a taste of the local Juranjon wine. Jeanne had become a Calvinist,
as was her son up to the time of his accession to the throne of France
(1592)-, and Beam had its share of sull'ering during the Religious Wars.
Still, under the protection of Henri IV. and during the regency of his
sister Catherine, the Calvinistic worship was maintained, but Louis XIII.
put an end to the claims of the states of Beam by personally interfering
and annexing the country to the crown in 1620. Besides Henri IV., Pau
counts among its natives Marshal Gassion (1609-47) and Bernadotte
(1764-1844), who became king of Sweden.
The railway station (P1.D,4) is at the foot of the plateau on
which the town is built. Carriages have to make a long d^tour^
but foot-passengers ascend by a zigzag path which leads past the
Casino to tlie —
Place Royale (PI. D, 4) , a spacious square bordered by fine
buildings and adorned since 1843 with a. ma.rhle Statue of Henri IV.,
by Kaggi, with bas-reliefs by Etex. It is chiefly noted, however,
for the superb **Panora7na which it commands of the valley of
the Gave and the Pyrenees. The plain, through which the river winds,
is dotted with villages and villas, giving it a very animated ap-
pearance (the large building in the middle is the stud -farm of
G^los). Behind are eminences covered with vineyards and woods,
and the background is formed by the majestic chain of the Pyrenees,
visible for a length of about 60 miles. The most conspicuous of
the summits (the most distant of which are 50 miles away) is the
108 II. Route 15. PAU. From Bayonne
Pic du Midi d'Ossau (p. 124), in reality two peaks, 9465 ft. and
9150 ft. in height, presenting a bolder and more abrupt appearance
than the others in the advanced rank to the right. On the left, near
the other end of the chain, rises the conical Pic du Midi de Bigorre
(9440 ft.), and near the centre is the amphitheatre of the Yigneniale,
with its glacier {10,820 ft.; p. 132), etc.
To reach the town from the Place Royale we follow the terrace
-and the Boulevard du Midi to the W., passing behind the church
■of St. Martin, and near the sumptuous Hotel Gassion.
St. Martin's Church (PI. D, 4) is a handsome edifice built by
Ba;swillwald in the Gothic style of the 13th cent. , with a stone
steeple on the facade. The high altar, the canopy, and the stained
windows after Steinheil deserve notice.
The *Castle (PI. C, 4), rebuilt, as we have said, in the 14th cent.,
hut considerably altered since, and recently restored, rises at the
W. end of the town, near the confluence of the Gave and the H4das
xivulet. It is built in the form of an irregular pentagon with six
square towers. Entering on the side next the town, we cross a stone
bridge which under Louis XV. replaced the drawbridge over a
moat now filled by a fine row of trees. To the left is the Chapel,
built in 1840. The Renaissance Portico, farther on, dates from
1859-64. On the left again is the Tour de Gaston- Phe'b us, or
keep, 110 ft. high; to the right, the Tour Neuve, built uiider Na-
poleon III., and the Tour Montaitzet or Monte-Oiseau, so called
because there was formerly no staircase . and in case of siege the
defenders ascended into it with ladders which they drew up after
them. The other towers are the Tonr Bilhere. to the N. W., and the
Tours Maztres, to the S. W., one of which was erected under Louis-
Philippe. — The most interesting feature in the Cour d'Honneur is
the fagade on the S. side, dating from the Renaissance, with three
tasteful dormer-windows.
The interior of the castle may be visited every day, in summer
from 10 to 5, in winter from 10 to 4. A guide accompanies the
visitor. The entrance is at the end of the court.
Ground Floor. — Salle cles Gardes: fine antique vaulting; Gothic
arm-chair; carved oak chairs; Renaissance chandelier; almost unique
time-piece in the style of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. — fia'.le a manger
cles Princes: vaulting; statues of Henri IV. and Sully. — Salle a manyer
des Souverains, successively Salle d'armes, Salle des Etats de Beam, and
a stable (in 1793) : Flemish tapestry from the Chateau de Madrid in the
Bois de lioulogue at Paris representing hunting- scenes in the reign of
Francis I.; good statue of Henri IV., by Francheville. The Grand Stair-
case is an interesting work of the Renaissance.
First Flour. — Salle d'Attente, Gobelins and Flemish tapestry, table
of Francis, the slab of Pyrenean marble, etc. — Salon de IKception, pain-
fully associated with the massacre of si.'c Roman Catholic nobles of Hearn
by order of Montgomery, the general of .Teanue d'Albret; Renaissance
chimney-piece; Flemish tapestry (continuation of the hunting scenes on
the ground- floor) ; table inlaid with mosaic of porphyry and Swedish
agate, presented by Hernadotte; Sevres vases, etc. — Salon de Famille:
Gobelins tapestry, table with slab of Swedish rose-porphyry, another gift
to Toulouse. PAU. //. Route 15. 109
of Bernadotte; statue of Henri IV. as a child, after Bosio. — Chamhre it
toucher du Souverain : (ine mantlepiece , Flemish tapestry, antique furni-
ture (except the bed); ebony chest with medallion of Henri IV, (1607);
very fine chest of the loth cent, from Jerusalem, bought in 1838. etc. —
Cabinet du Souverain: Brussels and Gobelins tapestries. Venetian glass, etc.
— Boudoir de la Heine: pictures in Gobelins tapestry, Venetian glass. —
Chambre a coueher de la Heine: antique furniture, except the bed : magni-
ficent Kenaissance cabinet; pictures in Gobelins tapestry.
Second Floor on S. side. — Chamber of Jeanne d'Albret, Gobelins
and Flemish tapestries, bed of 1562, etc. — Bedroom of Henri 1 K., shown
as the one in which he was born, 14th Dec. 1553, and containing his
cradle made of a large tortoise shell; Brussels tapestries; antique bed
ornamented with 64 medallions and bust portraits and 12 small figures. —
iih^ 5th, and 6th Rooms : tapestries resembling those in the preceding rooms;
in the last, tapestry worked by the ladies of St. Cyr, and a plan of the
castle before its restoration. — The other apartments, not shown, are of
little interest to strangers.
We now descend by the arcade near the keep. On this side,
lower down, are another ruined tower, and the Tour de la Monnaie.
On the terrace behind the castle is a marble Statue of Gaston Phe'bus,
by Triquety. A bridge which crosses the Rue Marca leads hence to
the Quinronce de la Ba>>>>e-Plante, beyond which extends the Park,
a charming promenade, much frequented by visitors.
Tha Church of St. James (Pi. D, 3), on theN. of the town, beyond
the small ravine of the H^das, is an attractive building erected in
1866-68 by Loupot, in the Gothic style of the 13th century. It has
two W. towers, and galleries above the aisles. The adjoining Pa-
lais de Justice is a heavy building in the classical style, dating
from 1847-55.
The Rue Serviez. a little farther to the right, ends in the Place
de la Halle, not far from the Place Royale.
The Muse'e (PI. E, 3), reached via the Rue de la Nouvelle-Halle,
though of recent creation, already contains a considerable number
of paintings. It is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from
1 to 4 or 5, but is accessible on other days also.
On the Ground Floor are casts from the antique and some sculptures. —
The paintings are on the upper floor. Room I. : &5. ff. Rigaud, Lute-player;
100. Vafflard, Henri IV. at Xotre Dame, on the day of his entry into
Paris; 109. Zurbaran, Portrait of a mitred abbot ; 58. Hoet the Elder, Gold-
en Calf; 78. Oudry, Stag -hunt; 97. Tenters the Elder, Landscape; 341.
J.F.de Troy, Mme. de Miramion, foundres.s of the order of Miramionnes;
108. P. Wouverman, Siege; 56. B. van der Heist, Portrait; Rubens, 64. Thetis
demanding arms for Achilles from Vulcan, 70. Death of Hector: 60. Jor-
daens. Author meditating, 61. Woman with a ewer; 8. Bonvicino , sur-
named il Moretto, Portrait. — Room II.; Engravings, drawings, coins,
and faience. — Rooms III. (felV.; Paintings chiefly by French artists. —
Rooms V. & VI. : Engravings and drawings. — Room VIII. : Natural history
collection; mummy; costumes from the Pyrenees, etc.
The Muse'e de I'lnfant Don Sebastien. Rue Montpensier 33. is
open on Sun. and Thurs. from 1 to 4.
A little to the S.E. of the civic Museum lies the Pare Beaumont
{PI. F, 4\ a fine public garden, commanding a view of the Pyrenees.
Band several times a week.
From Pau to Bordeaux, see p. 60; to Oloron (Vallee d'Aspe), see R. 16
to Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes, R. 17.
110 //. Route 15. LOURDES. From Bayonne
II. From Pau to Toulouse.
134 M. Railway in 51/4-8 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 70, 20 fr. 5, 14 fr. 70 c.).
Best views generally to the right.
Tickets may be obtained at any of the stations, permitting the traveller
to break the journey at Lourdes for not more than 24 hours.
Beyond Pau we continue to ascend the valley of the Gave de Pau,
71 M. (from Bayonne) Assat, beyond which the train stops at Bezing,
Baudreix, and (76 M.) Coarraze-Nay. Coarraze, on the left of the
line, is the place where Henri IV. was brought up in the simple
fashion of the peasants, running about bare-footed and bare-headed.
Nay, on the left bank of the Gave, is a small industrial town, pro-
ducing a large proportion of the bonnets worn by the inhabitants
of the Pyrenees, and also Turkish fezes. 78 M. iJufaii.
80 M. Montaut-Bc'thnrram. B^tharram, on the left bank above
Lestelle, is a resort of pilgrims, with a Church (17th cent.) remark-
able for the richness and bad taste of its decoration. Beside it is
a Mt. Calvary with chapels, founded in the time of the Crusades,
but, like the Church of the Resurrection at the top, lately rebuilt.
Near the former church , a bold . ivy-clad bridge crosses the Gave
de Pau. About P/4 M. to the S. is a fine grotto with stalactites.
The route now becomes for some distance very interesting. After
passing (84 M.) St. Pe (St. Pierre), a small town to the left, we obtain
a striking view to the right of the pilgrimage-churches , the grotto,
and the town and castle of Lourdes.
90 M. Lourdes, — Hotels (previous arrangement desirable) : Gr. -Hotel
b'Angleterke, Hot. dv Boulevard, Gr.-H. de la Chapelle, Hot. St. Michel,
Hot. Notre-Dame , all in the new street between the old town and the
.square in front of the pilgrimage-churches. — Second-class : Hot. de la
Grotte, Bellevue, de Rome, in the town; des Ambassa deurs, Continental,
Bu Sacre-Cceur, in the street leading from the station to the square (the
two first with a view of the churches). — du Commerce, near the parish
church (de.j. 3 fr.); Du NoRD, near the station; H. des Pyrenees, near the
Place du Marcadal.
Carriages: Caleche 2, landau 3 fr. per hour.
Post and Telegraph-Office, behind the parish church, to the left.
Lourdes is a small town of 6517 inhab., on the right bank of the
Cave du Pau, at the point where the river, descending from the valley
■of Argeles, turns abruptly "W. towards the plain. It is built at the
foot of a hill on which stands an ancient Castle, which formerly com-
manded the entrance of the valley and was often besieged in the
Middle Ages, during the wars with England. This castle, to which
visitors are admitted (gratuity) , though uninteresting in itself,
affords a beautiful view of the valley and the Pyrenees as far as the
snowy slopes of the Vignemale. The entrance is in the interior of
the town , to the E. Near it is the old Parish Church, which no
longer contains anything remarkable. A new church has been begun
farther E. , but the work has been abandoned for want of means,
since the death of the cur^ who undertook the enterprise (1877).
Lourdes has some small manufactures, and in the neighbourhood
marble and slate-quarries are worked.
to Toulouse. LOUUDKS. I f. Route 15. Ill
The present importance and celebrity of the town are due to
its PiUjrimage. dating only from 1858.
Bernadette Smibirous (who died in a convent in 1880), a peasant-
girl, then about 14 years of age. alleged tliat the Virgin had several times
%', appeared to her in a grotto and ordered that a .shrine should be erected
on the spot, to which many would resort lor prayer. Lovers of the mar-
vellous and pilgrims soon flocked thither, at lirst from the neighbotirhood,
then from all parts of France as well as from abroad, many of them,
'doubtless , drawn by the reports of the miraculous cures attributed to a
spring issuing from the rock of the grotto. Now not a day passes in the
,season without pilgrims arriving either singly or in large organized parties.
With the aid of the clergy, and by the admi.\ture of a little of the political-
religious element in the manifestations, the interest is so far kept up that
from every quarter special trains are despatched (especially in suinmerl
bringing thousands of passengers, ailing or not, to pay their devotions and
to satisfy their curiosity. The pilgrims travel at greatly reduced fares
and liud themselves at Lourdes near one of the finest parts of the
Pyrenees. — The simple tourist will do well to lay his plans to avoid
sleeping at Lourdes when a train of pilgrims has arrived.
The Boulevard de la Grotte, a new road to the right of the exit
from the station, leads straight to the ('/j M.) Grotto, crossing the
Gave on the way. The neighbourhood of the grotto has been com-
pletely transformed within recent years. A church has been built
on the top and another at the foot of the cliff in which it lies; the
course of the Gave has been diverteil so as to make room for a pro-
menade in front of the grotto; while between the bridge and the
churches lies a broad square, adorned with statues of the Virgin
and St. Michael , and witii a cross which is sometimes illumi-
nated, etc.
The Grotto, in the rocks beside the river, is a shallow recess
with a wide opening now closed with a railing. On a rock pro-
jecting above, to the right, is a statue by Fabisch, representing the
Virgin as Bernadette described her, in a white robe with a blue
scarf. The walls of the grotto are hung with crutches and other
votive offerings left by grateful patients. To the left is the Mira-
culous Spritiff, now confined by a wall garnished with taps, through
which the water flows into basins in which the pilgrims bathe.
For certain ailments the remarkable coldness of the water renders
it dangerous; and sufferers from these are warned by a notice that
they bathe at their own risk.
The *Church of the Rosary (1885-89) stands in front of the
Basilica, built above the grotto. It has the form of a rotunda in
the Byzantine style, with a flat dome flanked by two small towers,
between which symmetrically appears the tower of the Basilica.
Two flights of steps and two large inclined planes, in the shape of
horse-shoes, supported by arcades, give access to the terrace above.
Fifteen chapels in the interior of the church radiate from the centre
beneath the dome. The Basilica is a remarkable and richly orna-
mented building in the Gothic stylo of the 13th cent., designed by
Hipp. Duraiul. It was consecrated in 1876 in presence of thirty-
five archbishops and bishops, presided over by the Cardinal-Arch-
112 n. Boiite J5. TARBES. From Bayonne
bishop of Paris, and the Papal Nuncio, who crowned the statue of
the Virgin (by Raffl). An elegant tower rises on the AV. front.
The interior, which consists simply of a nave with side-chapels.
Is h\ing all over with gold or gilded hearts, banners, medallions,
inscribed tablets, and other votive offerings. A crypt , with double
nave, extends beneath the whole length of the church. !:,
■ JOn a hill (good view) to the S. of the Basilica stands a Calvary.
In the neighbourhood of the grotto are a number of buildings for
the use of the pilgrims, convents, an Asylum, for the Aged, a large
number of shops for the sale of mementoes, etc.
There are a number of other and larger grottos in the mountain be-
yond the Basilica. In the (I/2 M.) Speliigtie, articles made of reindeer horn
were discovered; !/■> M. farther is the Grotto du Loup^ of great depth.
From Lourdes to Caiiterets, Si. Smtveur, Bariges^ etc., see Rll. 18, 19, 20.
93 M. Ade. Beyond (96 M.) Ossun , a small town on the left,
appears the Pic du Midi de Bigorre (p. 144). — Beyond (99 M.)
Jmllan the line to Bordeaux via Mont-de-Marsan diverges to
the left (p. 59).
102 M. Tarbes (Buffet; Hotel de la Paix, des Ambassadeurs,
Place Maubourguet; de Strnshonrc/j at the station), with 25,146 in-
hab. , the chief town of the department of the Hautes- Pyre'ne'ea
and the seat of a bishop, is situated in a rich plain on the left bank
of the Adour. Its importance dates from the Middle Ages, when it
became the capital of the County of Bigorre. The English only oc-
cupied it from 1360 to 1406, but it suffered greatly during the re-
ligious wars of the 16th cent. , in which it was taken and retaken
seven times.!
The town contains little to interest the tourist. Its centre is
about 3/4 M. to the S. of the station , and it extends nearly 1 '/» M.
from W. to E., as far as the banks of the Adour.
A new street, a few yards to the left of the exit from the station,
leads direct to the Place Maubourguet; while the street immediately
to the right brings us to the Cathedral or Sede. The latter is a
heavy but unimposing building of the 12-i4th cent., the finest
feature of which is the octagonal cupola (14th cent.) above the tran-
sept. Over the high altar is a huge canopy supported by six co-
lumns of red marble veined with white, with gilded pedestals and
capitals. On each side of the nave is a double tier of noteworthy
wood-carving, the upper tier adorned with tasteful iron railings.
The Rue Neuve-St. Louis, to the E. of the cathedral, leads to
the Place Mauhourguet, the centre of the town; and thence the
Cours Gambetta, to the S. , to the Allees Nationale^. This flno
promenade is embellished, in front of the cavalry barracks, with a
statue in bronze (by Badiou de la Tronchere) of the surgeon Larrey
(1766-1842), a native of the ITautes-Pyr^n^es.
The Rue Larrey diverges to the right and left before we reach
the .\ll^es. In its E. section is a handsome new Theatre. Turning
to Toulouse. TARBE.S. 77. lioute 15. 113
to tlie right at the end of the W. section, we find ourselves in the
Cours de Reffye, with a bronze bust, by Nelly, of General lieffye.
The Rue Thiers leads to the left from the other end of the Cours to
the Place Maubourguet.
Towards the K. end of the town are two other large squares,
the Place Marvadleu or market-place and the Forail or place where
the fairs are held. The latter presents a curious sight when the
people from the mountains and also from Spain come to sell their
commodities, horses, etc. Tarbes is the chief mart for the excellent
horses whose qualities the tourist will learn to appreciate during
his wanderings amongst the Pyrenees.
The most interesting feature in Tarbes is the magnilicent *jAfiDiN
Massey, 550 yds. to the N. of the Place Maubourguet, and a short
distance to the E. of the station. Though created and presented to
the town by a former director of the Gardens of Versailles, it is laid
out in the style of an English park. It is planted with exotic
trees, and threaded by streamlets, and affords a delightful promenade.
Here, too, is a small Museum, in an attractive brick building,
with a tower in the Moorish style. It is open to visitors on Sun.,
Thurs., and holidays, from 12 to 4 or 5; on other days for a gratuity.
GRorND Floor. Plaster-casts from the antique and from mediaeval
and Kenaissance works, also in the hall to the left, Fr. Jouffroy, Ariadne;
J. Coiitan , St. Christopher. — Staircase. Fine Roman capitals; Gallo-
Koman votive altars and small antiquities; plaster -easts of sculptures
from the Parthenon : portion of the natural history collection.
First Floor. — Room I., to the right: 154. J. L. Q^rome, Innocence;
G2. Pittro PeriKjino, Virgin and Child; 13. Ann. Carracci, Children;
33. Everdingen, Sea-piece; 102. Zurharan , St. James of Compostella;
26. />omen«(-Ai;io, Cartoon for the fresco of the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian;
20. Alonso Cano, Holy Family; 53. Lazerges, Kabyle reapers; 159. Teniers,
Temptation of St. Anthony ; l03. Zurbaran , Solomon and his wives. —
R. II. Copies bequeathed by Lagarrigue, a former curator of the Musee. —
B. III. . 79. Sassoferrato, St! Margaret; 12. Ann. Carracci, Apollo; 39. Guer-
cino , Lot and his daughters; Alb. Cuyp. 14, 15. Portraits; 66. Pordeiione,
Achilles finding the body of Patroclus ; 64. Parmegyiano , Judgment of
Paris: 153. Benj. Constant, Hamlet and the king. — R. IV. Religious and
historical paintings by M. and Mine. Latil, remarkable for their colouring. —
R. V. Engravings; medal.s : bas-reliefs; engraved portraits. — R. VI. Orna-
mental designs: engravings (220. Loggie of Raphael): medals: insects. —
R. VII. Birds, shells, etc'
Fine view from the Tower (25 c).
From Tarbes to Agen, etc., see R. 11; to Morcenx (Jiordeaux), p. 59; to
Cauterets, St. Sauveiir, Bareges, etc., RR. 18, 19, 20; to Bagnh-es-de- Bigorre,
R. 21; to Bagneres-de-Litclion, R. 22.
Quitting Tarbes we pass between the .Tardiu Massey and the
arsenal. Beyond Marvadieu, the line to Bagneres-de-Bigorre diverges
to the right. Beyond a tunnel, 1/4 M. long, is (109 V2 M-) Lespouey-
Laslades, and beyond another tunnel, 700 yds. long, are (llOVoM.)
Bordei-V Hez, (113 M.) Tournay, and (116 M.) Ozon- Lanespede.
We next cross a (;urved viaduct from which there is a flue view to
the right, then another viaduct over a ravine, and ascend a steep
gradient. Among the mountains, to the right, the most conspicuous
Baedeker. Southern France. o
114 II. Route 15. BOUSSENS. From Bayomie
are the Pic d'Ardiden, the isolated Pic du Midi de Bigoire, and the
triple summit of the Pic d'Arbizon.
122 M. Capvern, station for the Baths of that name, which lie
2 M. to the N. (diligence ; Grand-Hutel ; Hot. des Pyrenees; Casino'
and have two springs, impregnated with sulphate of lime, resem-
bling those of Bagneres-de-Bigorre (p. 147).
From i'VIi^l-i'^l.) Lanncmezan, on aplateau only lately reclaimed,
a diligence runs in 2Va hrs. to Arreau (p. 150), 16 M. to the S.
A railway to this little town, via the valley of the Neste, is pro-
jected. — 128 M. Canfaous: 131 M. St. Laurenf-St. Paul ; 133 M.
Ai-entiqnan (Grotto of Gargas, see below). To the right, on a
hill, is a ruin commanding the confluence of the Garonne and the
Neste. We cross the Garonne and reach —
135 M. Montr6jeau ('Mont-Royal'; Buffet: Hot. Lerlair; Hot.
du Pare), a town of 3141 inhab., 1 M. from the station, on the edge
of a plateau overlooking the Garonne and commanding a fine view.
From Montrejeau to Bagneres-de-Luchon, see R. 22.
About 5 M. to the S.W. of Moutrejeau, beyond the village of (3 M.)
Ai'entignan (see above), at which the custodian resides, is the Grotto of
Gargas (adm. 1 fr.. with illumination li/o fr. and fee), with remarkable sta-
lactites and stalagmites, and an arched root' more than 50ft. high, etc.
The name is said to be derived from a chieftain who used it as a pri-
son. In the 18th cent, it was the haunt of a cannibal who killed and
devoured more than thirty women of the neighbourhood.
The line now follows the valley of the Garonne and skirts the
mountains for some time, affording a series of fine views. Beyond
(139 JI.) Martrps-de-Riviere it crosses the river.
144 M. St. Gaudens (Hot. Ferriere), a town of 6602 inhab., once
very prosperous , situated on an eminence on the right bank of the
Garonne, and commanding a fine view. Its chief building is the
Komanesque Church of the ll-12th cent., with an imposing Gothic
portal of the 15th century. The columns have curious capitals,
and the interior is decorated with antique tapestry and modern
paintings.
About 6 M. to the S. (omnibus in summer: I fr. 35 c.) is tlie village
of Encausse (Ildi. de Paris: de France^ etc.), the mineral waters of which
are used both for drinking and bathing. Their efl'ect is sedative and pur-
gative. — Pretty neighbourhood.
Beyond (150 M.) Lnbarthe-Inard , we see on the right the pic-
turesque ruins of the Chateau de Montespan ('Mont-Hispan") of the
13-15th centuries. We cross the Garonne. — 155 M. St. Martory. a
place probably called, like others which bear the name Martres.
after some martyrdom in the days of the Saracens. To the left the
old Chateau de Montpezat. Farther on is another bridge over the
Garonne, near which is tlie mouth of an irrigation canal, 40 M. in
length, constructed with the object of watering the vast plain which
extends lower down the river on the left.
At (159 M.) Boussens (Hotel Feitillerat) the Garonne becomes
navigable. A visit hence, to the S., to the ruins of the Chateau de
to Toulouse. MURET. II. Route 15. 115
Roquefort (12-13th cent.), and the fine modern Romanesque church
of that village takes 1 Vo bi'v there and back.
From Boussons to Aulus, via St. Girons, see R. 23.
Near the little town of (161 M.) Martres -Tolosane (to the left)
the remains of a Roman villa were discovered in 1826, with 40
busts of Roman emperors, now in the Museum at Toulouse, and
various other antiquities.
165 M. Cazeres-sur-Garonne, a small town. 169 M. St. Jidien-
St. EU.r. St. Elix, 1^/4 M. to theN., has a Renaissance chateau.
The scenery becomes less interesting. The line recedes farther and
farther from the mountains, while wide and well -cultivated but
monotonous plains stretch on the left. — 174 M. Carbonne. a small
town; 179 AI. Lonqagea; 182 M. Fauga.
187 -M. Muret {*nutel de France, Place Lafayette), on the Ga-
ronne, with 4148 inhabitants.
The second turning on the right beyond the station leads to the
Place Lafayette, embellished with a statue of the Madonna, near
which is the church. A little farther on is the oblong All^e Niel,
in which are bronze statues (by St. Jean and Crauk respectively)
of the musician Dalayrac (1753-1809) and Marshal Mel (1802-69),
both natives of Muret. — The Church dates from the 14th and
loth cent., but the interior has been altered in the classic style
and recently adorned with mural paintings. To the left of the en-
trance is a cross from Bomarsund, presented by Marshal Niel.
In the neighbouring plain, to the N. , the army of Dom Pedro,
king of Aragon, marching to the succour of Toulouse, was in 1213
defeated by Simon de Montfort the elder, the king with 15-20,000
of his followers being slain.
192'/2 M. Fortet-St. Simon, at the confluence of the Garonne
and the Ariege, is the junction for Foix (R. 24). On the left, the
loop-line connecting the line from Auch and the St. Cyprien station,
at Toulouse (see p. 70). Then, crossing the Garonne for the last
time and passing St. Agne, we cross the Canal du Midi and reach
the Gare Matabiau at —
199 M. Toulouse (Buffet), see p. 70.
16. From Pau to Oloron. Vallee d'Aspe.
From Pan to Oloron, 2I1/3 M-, Kauavay in IV4-IV2 l^''- ('"ares 4 fr. 25,
3 fr. 20, 2('r. 35e.); thence Dilige>'ce once a day to "(251A> M.) Urdos in
48/4 hrs. (fare 3 fr. 20 c). From Urdos to (27 M.) Jaca, by Spanish
"Courrier", and diligence thence to (51 M.) Huesca, which is connected
by rail witli Saragossa.
Pau. seep. 106. — This line, which coincides at first with that to
Laruns andEaux-Bonnes (R. 17), crosses the Gave, ascends the valley
of the Nez to the S., and then turns to the W. — Beyond (5 M.) Gan
(2700 inhab.) on the left, the train mounts a considerable gradient,
and traverses successively a short tunnel, four viaducts (the second
116 II. Route 16. VALLEE D'ASPE. Fiom Pan
of which, 100 ft. high, is curved), and two more tunnels, the last
being 620 yds. in length.
At (12 M.) B^lzy. the branch to Laruns diverges (p. 118). —
15'/2 M. Ogeu. a small watering-place. — 18 M. Escou.
21 V2 M. Oloron (892 ft.; Hot. de la Posfe ; Loustalot, at Ste. Marie,
near the station), the ancient Iluro. is an industrial and commer-
cial town of 8931 inhab. including the suburb of Ste. Marie. It
is prettily situated at the confluence of the Gaves d'Ossau and d'Aspe,
which together form the Gave d'Oloron , and it was once the seat
of a bishop. The Cathedral of Ste. Marie, in the suburb of that
name, on the left bank of the Gave d'Aspe, is a Romanesque-
Gothic building of the ll-15th cent, with an interesting portal,
under a porch. The church of Ste. Croix, in Oloron itself, dating
from the 11th cent., has a gilded wooden altar of the 17th cent, in
the Spanish style, and some paintings by Romain Gazes. The town
has fine promenades and the remains of ramparts.
From Oloron to Tardeff, see p. 105.
The Vallee d'Aspe, to the S. of Oloron, is traversed by a good
carriage-road . one of the best and most frequented of those which
cross the Pyrenees, and it has been proposed to make a railway
also, with a tunnel nearCanfranc, which would shorten the journey
from Paris to Madrid by about 60 miles. The distance from Oloron
to the frontier at Somport is 32 M.. and thence it is about 18 M.
to the little Spanish town of Jaca , via Canfranc. The valley is
uninteresting till beyond Asasp . 5 M. from Oloron , and its finest
parts lie between that point and Fort d'Urdos, about 18 M. higher
up. In breadth it hardly exceeds ^'jM. , while in many places it
becomes a mere picturesque gorge which the Gave has worn in the
prevailing limestone.
The road follows the left bank of the Gave d'Aspe. At (P,'^ M.)
Bidos, the road to (10 M.) St. Christau diverges to the left.
An omnibiLS plies in summer from Oloron to St. Christau (1 fr. 60 c.),
aftbrding a convenient means of traversing the uninteresting portion of
the valley, St. Christau being only about I1/4M. from Asasp (see below).
St. Christau (Hdtel de la Poste) is a hamlet of Lurbe (see below), pret-
tily situated and possessing sulphureous and other waters especially effi-
cacious in skin - diseases. There are two bathing establishments. — To
the S. is Afont Binet (4020 ft.), which is easily ascended in 2 liours.
Passing (3 M.) Gurmencon and (4M.) Arros . we reach (5V2 M.)
the village of A»a»p, beyond which on the left bank (bridge) is Ldtrbe
(Hot. des Valines); to which are attached the Baths of St. Christau,
l'/4 M. to the N. E. — We now leave on the right the valley of the
Lourdios, and soon enter the first gorge of the valley of the Gave.
From (10 M.) Escot a new route crosses the Col de Marieblanque
(3025 ft.) to (3 hrs.'t the Valine d'Ossau. joining the route to
Eaux-Bonnes atBielle (p. 119). Another interesting route leads from
Escot to Arudy (15 M. ; see p. 118).
Our road now crosses the Gave d'Aspe by the Pont d'Escot.
to Oloron. PIC DANIE. //. Route 16. 117
To the left, on a rock, is a Latin inscription of doubtful authen-
ticity, stating that the Duumvir L. Valerius Vernus twice repaired
this route. Near the bridge are the small Baths of Escot, frequented
by the natives only. — We cross another bridge.
12 M. Sarrance (Inn) , with a pilgrims' shrine and a ruined
convent. As we continue to ascend the valley we pass successively
a waterfall, the Pont Suzon, the Cirque d'Ourdiiise, to the left (with
the Fie de Mouste". 5235 ft., ascended from B^dous in i'/o hrs.),
and a second gorge.
lo'/a M. Bedous (Hot. de la Paix), situated in a basin which
must have formed a lake before the waters of the torrent had
sufficiently scooped o\it the gorge. The hillocks in this basin are
composed of ophite, a volcanic product. A road, difflcult in places,
leads hence to Laruiis (p. 119). \ii Aydins and the Col de las Arqiies
(about 5600 ft.).
Farther on, in the valley of Aspe, is Suberlacke', a small water-
ing-place, with chalybeate and sulphur springs.
18 M. Acrous is supposed to be the Aspn Luca of the Romans.
On a knoll is a column erected to the memory of the popular poet
Despourrins (1693-1742). A path, affording fine views, leads hence
in 4-5 hrs. to Plaux-Chaudes over the Col d' heye (about 6560 ft.).
The valley again narrows to a gorge, midway in which is the
Font d'Eaguit, boldly spanning the torrent. Travellers bound for
Urdos cross neither this nor the next bridge. — 20 M. Font de
Lescun. leading into the valley of that name.
The Gave de Lescun forms a pictiiresciue waterfall . near a cottage,
about l/o M. from the bridge (50 c.)- The hamlet of Lescun (300 ft.; Hotel)
is about 3/^ M. farther on; and in the neighbourhood are the little Baths
0/ Laberou, with warm sulphur-springs. The comparatively easy and
interesting ascent of the *Pic d'Anie (8215 ft.; guide, Loustallot) may be
made from Lescun in 4-4V2 hrs. We ascend the Ilourque de Lauga, a
valley to the right, and passing near the baths (see above), enter a wood,
and beyond the huts of (21/4 hrs.) Azuns, we climb alongside the streamlet
that descends from the mountain, leaving on the right the (1 hr.) little
Lac d'Anie, thus skirting the peak from E. to W. The magnificent pan-
orama from the summit is one of the most striking in the Pyrenees,
not only embracing the greater part of that chain but also e-xtending to
the ocean, 50 miles distant, and over the plains of Gascony as far as
the Landes. The double Pic du Midi d'Ossau (p. 124), only 15 M. distant,
specially attracts attention by its abrupt outlines.
Passing (2OV2 M.) Cette-Eygun and (22 M.) Etsaut, the road
again crosses the torrent, by the Font de Sebers, and enters a gorge
at the end of which rises on the left (24 M.) the *Fo)t d' Urdos or
the Fortalet (2605 ft.), presenting a striking and picturesque appear-
ance. This fort, constructed in 1838-48, is to a great extent
built on a rock overhanging the torrent, and is reached by no less
than 506 steps. All that is visible is a frontage flanked by two tur-
rets and some walls, only distinguishable from the rocks by their
embrasures; but within there is accommodation for 3000 men.
Recrossing to the right bank by the Font d' Enfer, at the foot of
118 II. Route 16. SOMPORT.
the fort, we enter another small basin about 3 miles long, and
reach —
25V2 M. Urdos (2493 ft.: Hotel des Voyageurs). the last French
village.
From Urdos to Gabas, by a mule-track in 6, and by a footpath in
5 hours. The former passes to the X. of the Pics de Lorry (4070 ft.) and
iVAyous (10,865 ft.), and leads over the Col d'Aas de Bielle (7095 ft. : 4 hrs.),
beyond which there is a splendid view of the Pie du Midi d'Ossau (p. 124);
then past the saw-mill oi Bious-Artigues (^. 124), whence Gabas is reached
in an hour. — The footpath ascends to the S. of the Pic Hotirqneite
(7820 ft.) to the (3 hrs.) Col de Bious, to the N. of the Pie de Moines
(8012ft.). Here, too, the Pic du Midi is in view. We descend by the
saw-mill.
27^2^1- * Lazaretto, in ruins; then another gorge, followed
by a small basin and an inn , beyond which is (30 M.) a deserted
Foundry. The road then separates from a path that continues to
the right up the valley , at the end of which , on the left , the Pic
d'Aspe (8880 ft.) is conspicuous. We pass two inns.
33 M. Le Somport or Port d' Urdos (5380 ft.) , on the frontier,
the Sunimus Portus of the Romans, through which passed the road
from Coisarea Augusta (Saragossa) to Iluro (Oloron). A part of the
army of Abderrahman. defeated by Charles Martel in 732, invaded
France by this route. The view from the col is limited and the
surroundings are bare and gloomy.
From Le Somport to Gabas, 4 hrs., by a path which passes to the S. of
the Pic d'Aniousse (7020 ft.) and over the (IV2 hr.) Col des Moines (7230 ft.),
beyond which we descend, in view of the majestic Pic du Midi, and join
the path from the Col de JBious (see above).
The road now descends in zigzags on the Spanish side, passing
first the ruins of the hospital of Santa Cristina, and then an inn.
40'/2 M. Canfranc (Inn), a small place on the right bank of
the Aragon, above which rises an ancient castle. — Farther on are
two highly picturesque gorges, between which, on the left, rises
the Pena-Collarada (9460 ft.; ascended in 5 hrs.), the summit of
which affords an extensive view.
32 M. Jaca {*H6tel Mur-y-Bueno), a walled town, with 4000 in-
habitants. The interesting Cathedral dates from the 14-loth cent. ;
the Citadel (fine view from the top) from the 16th.
17. Eaux-Bonnes, Eaux-Chaudes, and their Environs.
I. From Pau to Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes.
Railway to (24 M.) Laruns in U 2-IV4 l"r. ( lares 4 fr. 80, 3 Ir. 60, 2 fr.
60 c.); thence railway-omnibus to (4 31.) Kaux-Bounes and Eau.\-Chaudes,
in 55 min. (fare 1 fr. 50 c.) ; other vehicles outside the station cheaper.
Best view from seats in the banquette.
From Pau (p. 106) to (12'/2 M.) Buzy see p. 116. — Leaving the
line to Oloron on the right, we approach the Gave d'Ossau, and
cross it by means of a viaduct, 100 ft. in height. — 16 M. Arudy,
to the left, a place of some size.
EAUX-BONNES. II. Route 17. 119
The •Vallfie d'Ossau begins here and extends S. to Gabas (p. 125),
a distance of about 16 JI. Sometimes, however, the name is restricted
to the part between Arudy , where the Gave d'Ossau turns to the W. in
the direction of Oloron , and Laruns (see below), where it descends
from Eaux-Chaudes and is joined by the Valentin, which comes from
Eaux-Bonnes. The valley of Ossau is one of the most picturesque in the
Pyrenees , although the mountains which flank it have been to a great
extent stripped of their woods since last century. At the upper end
is the famous Pic du Midi d't)ssau ; at the end of the lateral valley the Pic
de Ger (p. 121), celebrated for its panorama, etc. The valley, in which
are Eaux-Bonnes and Eaux-Chaudes, watering-places of the first rank,
is only separated from the valley of Aspe (p. 116) by a minor chain of
hills, easy to cross and affording tine excursions. The valley of Ossau,
like that of Aspe, once formed a small commonwealth, which retained its
privileges for a long time after its annexation to Beam, and for still longer
its peculiar manners and costumes. Traces of both still linger in the
more sequestered parts of the valley. Curious costumes are still to be
seen at Laruns on holidays, especially on the festival of the patron-saint
(Aug. 15th). The hoods worn by the women are characteristic.
At {17^'2 M.) Izei^te the valley begins to form a picturesque gorge.
Here there is a grotto interesting alike to geologists and to ordinary
tourists (10 fr. for 1 or more persons). — 20 M. Bielte, the ancient
capital of the viscounts of Ossau , has preserved its old archives.
The Gothic church is partly built of anc iefit materials, and remains
of Roman baths , with mosaics , have been discovered. Near the
church are some curious houses of the 15th and 16th centuries.
We now reach the motintains , and traverse two short tunnels.
To the left lie Louvle and Sottbirun, noted for their quarries of
Ossau marble.
24 M. Laruns (1650 ft.; Hotel des Tourisfes, etc.), with
2442 inhab.. has marble quarries of high repute.
Farther on to the right our road leaves the old road to f]aux-
Chaudes via the Hourat (p. 121), recommended to pedestrians oti
accoufit of the view. Beyond a bridge over the Gave d'Ossau we
reach the (25 '/a M.) poittt where the New Roads to Eaux-Bonnes
and Eaux-Chaudes diverge. For the latter see p. 121. That to
Eaux-Bonnes leaves the old and steep road below on the left, and
ascends the N.E. flank of the Gourzy (p. 121) iit zigzags, affording
fine views: behind, Laruns and its valley; on the left the valley of
the Valentin and the Montague -Verte; in front and on the right,
the Latte de Bazen . the P^n^medaa , and the Pic de Ger (p. 121).
Enux-Bonnes is not visible until we are close to it.
II. Eaux-Bonnes.
Hotels, Gkasd-Hotel ues Princes, de France, C'OiTiuEiiTAL, Richeliei',
all first-class, round the .lardin Darralde; de Paris , d'Angleterre <C
d'Espagke, de la Poste, des Toukistes & DE l'Univers, des Pybekees,
in the same place; de i.a Paix, Bernis, these last nearer the Thermal
Establishment, etc. — Furnished Houses and Private Pensions. Lanne-
Lazar, Cazauj aim', in the Promenade; lionnecaze, Pornme, Loubira, in the
Place de THotel de Ville ; Coirrtade , Tourn^ , C. Lamarque , Laijouarre,
higher up and nearer the batlis. — Charges vary considerably: R. 2 to 10,
D. 5 to 8 fr.
120 II. Route 17. EAUX- BONNES.
CaM and Club at the Hotel des Princes.
Thermal Establishments, see below. Tariff for drinking and gargling,
from June 20th to Aug. 20th, 20 fr. ; at other times during the season, 10 fr. ;
family subscription, 50 fr. — Bath, from 7 to 10 a. m. : from June 20th to
Aug. 20th, 2 fr. : at other hours and other seasons, 1 fr. ; douche, 1 fr. ; bath
and douche. 2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 50 c.. etc. Tourists have the privilege of
drinking once at the springs gratis.
Casino tsee below): subscription for a fortnight, entitling to 7 re-
presentations, 10 fr.
Horses and Mounted Guides: Lanusse , Caillau, Casabonne , etc. —
There is no li.xed tariff: charges var.v from 7 to 12 fr. a day.
Guides. *J. Oi-ieig , J. Soustrade , Esquerre, Navarrens. ' — No tariff;
5 to 10 fr. a day.
Omnibus to Eaux-Chaudes, at 7 and 11 a. m., returning at 9 a. m. and
3 p. m. (fare 1 fr. 50, return 2 fr. 40 c).
Eaux-Bonnes (2455 ft.), with 874 iiihab., is situated at the con-
fluence of two torrents, the Valentin and the Sourde, at the en-
trance to an extremely picturesque gorge between lofty mountains,
which leave a very narrow space between them. Its chief importance,
however, is due to the springs of sulphureous sodaic and calcareous
waters, in which chloride of sodium is the chief ingredient. These
waters are efficacious in throat and bronchial affections and in tuber-
cular consumption. The climate is mild in summer, but in conse-
quence of the altitude the season is short. There are not less
than 6000 visitors a year.
The centre of Eaux-Bonnes is the Jardin Darralde^ a small
park planted with fine trees, in which a band plays in the after-
noon and evening. Around it are the chief hotels, and at one end
is the Casino, the terrace of which commands a fine view of the Pic
de Ger (p. 121).
Ascending the Grande-Rue beyond the Jardin , we soon reach
the principal Efablissement Thermal, of no great size, as the waters
are seldom taken in baths. There are seven small springs, the most
important being the Old Spring ( Source Yieille; 89°26'Fahr.). which
feeds only the tap of the pump-room. The water has a distinctly
sulphureous odour but is less disagreeable to taste than to smell :
it should be used with precaution. Farther up, at the end of the
village, is a pavilion containing the pump-room of the Fontaine
J^rojde {52°4' Fahr.). Opposite are some schools, and to the left,
a Protestant Church. The mineral waters rise near here from the
Butte du Tre'sor , on which is a kiosk. Near the bridge over the
Valentin is the less important Etablissement Orteig.
Eaux-Bonnes has fine promenades. The Promenade Eynard
leads round the Butte du Tresor, which may be reached from the
interior of the Etablissement Thermal. The fine Promenade de
V Impe'ratrire or du Gros-Hetre diverges from the former behind
the Butte, and runs beneath pleasant trees at a uniform height above
the valley of the Valentin, for about 1^4 M. Above the Cascade de
Discoo it crosses a bridge 80 ft. high, and joins another road, which
leads to the fine Cascade du Gros-Hetre (dairy), near a wooden
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PIC DE GER. //. Route 17. 121
bridge, about 2''4M. from the village. We may return hence by
the Promenade du Valentin, above the preceding, on the left bank
of the stream, passing the pretty Cascade des Eaux-Bonnes.
On the other side of tlie village is the Promenade Horizontale,
for pedestrians only, on the flank of the Gourzy (see below) , which
affords pretty views of the valley. Beginning at the terrace of the
Casino, it extends at present for about a mile, but is to be con-
tinued as far as the Eaux-Chaudes road. The Prom.enade Gramoni,
also on the flank of the Gourzy, ascends in zigzags behind the Ca-
sino, as far as the Fontaine Froide. The Promenade Jarqnnninot,
diverging from the last-named, ascends to the first plateau, whence
the view is very beautiful.
Excursions.
To Eaux-Chaudes. (1) By Road, 5 M. ; omnibus, see p. 120. We de-
scend by the road to Pau as far as (Si/.j M.) the parting of tlie ways
mentioned on p. 119. Beyond this point the *l{oute is one of the most
picturesque in the Pyrenees. It is cut out in the rock on the left of the
Hourat ('holhiw') , the ravine in which the Gave d'Ossau frets 150 ft.
below, and it is overhung by rocks of still greater height. At one spot
there is a crevasse over which a bridge has been thrown between two
roclcs. On the other side of the torrent is the old road to Laruns, which
descends very rapidly and joins the new road at the Pont Crabe or Pont
des Chevres. — For Eaux-Chaudes and excursions into the upper part of
the valley see pp. 122. 123.
(2) Via the Grourzy, about 31/2 hrs. , an interesting route which may
be made on horseback, but for which a guide is desirable (4-5 fr.). We
ascend through woods, in 50min., to the lirst plateau to which the Prome-
nade Jacqueminot (see above) leads. The second plateau is 40 min.
farther. Here we leave on the left the path to the Pic du Ger (see be-
low), and in 50 min. more reach the third plateau on the summit of the
Gourzy (6033 ft.), whence there is a superb panorama, including the Pic
de Ger and the majestic Pic du Midi d'Ossau. Thence vve descend to
the W. by a bad path, also through woods, which in .50 min. more joins
the road to the grotto of Eau.N-Chaudes (p. 123), about 1 M. from Eaux-
Cliaudes (p. 122).
To THE Pic de Ger. The usual route leads via the Gourzy, and
takes about 10 hrs. there and back. Part of this most interesting ex-
cursion may be accomplished on horseback , but the rest is laborious
and the ascent should not be made without a guide (20 fr.) and provi-
sions. Following the Eaux-Chaudes path as far as the second plateau
(11/.2 hr. , see above) we there turn to the left and reach (about 3 hrs.)
the Plateau d'Anouillas, beyond the huts on whicli horses cannot ascend.
Thence we proceed on foot to (1 hr.) the Plateau de Cardoua (des Chardons),
where there is another hut , beyond which another hour's laborious climb
by the Pambassibe brings us to" the top. This last stage is not only re-
markably steep, with a neve above a sheer precipice, but there is also
a ridge which must be crossed partly on one's hands and knees and
partly astride.
The *Pic de Ger (8575 ft.), with its two peaks, the second of which
is difficult to climb , affords a superb panorama presenting strong con-
trasts : to the S. a chaos of desolate mountains, and to the K. a sea of
verdure in the midst of which are the towns of Tarbes and Pau. The
most conspicuous summits visible, from east to west, are, in the fore-
ground the Latte de Bazen (8105 ft.) and the Peneme'daa (8165 ft.); farther
away, -to the right, the Pies de Gabizos (8660ft. and 8805ft.); then the
mountains round the valleys of Gaube and Marcadaou, with the Vigne-
122 //. Boute 17. EAUX-CHAUDES.
male (10,795 ft.), the Pic de Balaitous (10,320 ft.), the Pic Palas (9765 ft.),
and a succession of other peaks varying from 8500 to nearly 9500 ft. in
height, extending to the famous Pie du Midi d'Ossau (9465 ft.), compared
with which the peaks of the Vallee d'Aspe seem tamely uniform. South-
wards, to the left of the Pie Amoulat (8615 ft.) , which forms part of
the Pic de Ger group, the large Lac d'Artouste is seen (p. 124).
To THE Pic de Goupey, 7 hrs. there and back, easy, with guide.
We follow the above route as far as the (3 hrs.) Plateau d'Anouillas, where
we turn to the right. From (I/2 hr.) the Col de Lurdi (6400 ft.) is seen
the Pic du Midi rising in front, and in 3/4 hr. more we reach the top of
the Pic fde Goupey or de Cizy (7245 ft.). It aflbrds a specially fine view,
to the S., of the valleys of the Gave de Soussoueou, descending from the
Lac d'Artouste (p. 124), and of the Gave de Brousset, as well as the
valley of Gabas, with the Pies de Balaitous, Palas, d'Ossau, etc.
To THE Lac d'Anglas akd Lac d'Uzious, etc., a fine excursion occu-
pying a whole day (guide and provisions necessary), either via the gorge
of the Valentin, partially practicable for horses, or via the gorge of the
Sourde, the Coume d'Aas . etc. The Lac d'Anglas (G790 ft.) is a small
round lake on a plateau between the buttresses of the Pe'nemedaa and
the Sourins; the Lac d'Uzious (6955ft.), oval in shape, lies a little far-
ther to the S.E. Still higher up are the little Lac de Lavedan and the Col
d'Uzious (7325 ft.), whence a charming view is enjoyed.
To THE Grand Pic de Gabizos , another fine excursion for one day
which may be partly made on horseback (guide and provisions). The
best route leads via the gorge of the Valentin, Gourrette , the Rochers de
las Nieras to the S. E. , and the Pastures of Bourroux. The Grand Pic de
Gabizos or Pic d' Eras - Taillades (8806 ft.), to the S., is the principal peak
of a group in which the Petit Pic ^ or Pic de Gabizos properly so called
(8660 ft.), ranks second in height. The magnificent panorama resembles
that commanded by the Pic de Ger (see above).
To Argel^s (Cauierets), 26 M. The very interesting carriage-road leads
by the gorge of the Valentin and (8 M.) the Col d'Aubisque (5610 ft.), then
across a desolate but striking tract, passing the Col d Arbaze , S. W. of
the J/07i< Laid (6205 ft.), and the Col du Couret or de Soulor (4755 ft.)
whence it descends to (I81/2 M.) Arrens (hotel), the principal place in
the prettv Vallee d'Azun, and thence by the vallev of ihe Gave d' Arrens,
in which" are (20 M.) Marsovs, (20^ /» TSl. ) Aucun, (211/.2 M.) Gaillagos, (23 M.)
Ai-cizatis-Dessus , and (24 M.) Arras, with the ruined Chateau of Castelnau-
d'Azun (14th cent.). Argeles, see p. 125. — A footpath, shortening the jour-
ney by 61/2 M., leads from the end of the gorge of the Valentin over the
Coi de Tories (5''00 ft.), rejoining the road a good 1/2 M. farther on. An-
other short-cut, at the descent into the Vallee d"Azun , follows the old
road to the S.E., by the Col de Saiict'de (5015 ft.). — The easy and inter-
esting ascent of the Pic de Grum (6135 ft.) may be made in 20 min. from
the Col d'Aubisque.
Other excursions, see pp. 123, 124.
III. EauZ'Chaudes.
Arrival: from Pau. see p. 119; from Eau.x-Bonnes, p. 121.
Hotels: de Fkancb; Baudot. Charges approximately the same as at
Eaux-Bonnes. — Furnished Houses. Cazaux ; Lanna; BeigMder ; Nounaix;
Noguis ; Abbadie.
Caf6s, on the Promenade Henri IV.
Thermal Establishment, see below. Fee for drinking the waters, 6 fr.
from June 1st to Sept. 30th, 4 fr. at other seasons. Private bath or
douche 1 fr. 25 c, in the general basin 50 c.; douche before or after a
bath 1 fr. 75 c. : bath sheet 1.5, towel 10 c, etc. The above prices are the
first-class taritf ; the second class is for artizans, etc., the third-class for
domestics and workmen.
Omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes, see p. 121. Another leaves Eaux-Chaudes
for Eaux-Bonnes, every Sun. and Thurs. at 1 p. m., returning at 6 p. m.
EAL X - CHAUDES. II. Route 17. 123
Horse-Hirers and Hounted Guides. Dichat, Labarthe, Larrouy, Pouchan,
OUivain. — Gtiides on foot: Grange, Camy (of Gabas), see below. —
Charges, see Eaux-Bonnes.
JSnglish Church Service in summer (French Church).
Eau.r-Chaudes (2'215 ft.) is smaller, but perhaps even more
grandly situated than Eaux-Bonnes. It is perched on the right
bank of the Onie d'Ossau or de Gabas, which is so steep that the
houses can hardly find standing-room. The waters, sulphureous
like most in the Pyrenees, are very efficacious, though less patron-
ised tlian those of Eaux-Bonnes. The average annual number of
bathers is not more than 2000. and life is quieter than at Eaux-
Bonnes.
The well-managed Thermal Establis^hment , standing just above
the Gave, is a fine building partly constructed ofPyrenean marble.
More attention is here paid to bathing than at Eaux-Bonnes ; and
a public basin ("piscine') has been fitted up. Three of the seven
principal springs of Eaux-Chaudes are here in use, viz. the Esquir-
ette which has a double source of supply (95 and 89" Fahr.) , the
Rey (92°). and the Clot (97°). They are much used in certain ma-
ladies of women and in cases of rheumatic neuralgia and chronic
rheumatism. The attendants wear the local costume.
Eaux-Chaudes has some fine promenades: the Promenade
Henri IV. near the baths; the Promenade d' Argout and the Prome-
nade Horizontnle, one above the other on the left bank of the
Gave. Two bridges lead thither, one near the bath-house, the other
higher up. to the right, outside the village; on this side also is a
waterfall. There are two other promenades on the other side, the
chief of which is the Promenade Minvielle. to the left and not far
from the road, with the pump-room of the cold Minrielle Sfn-inp.
Excursions.
To THE Grotto of Eac.x-Chaudes, about 2 hrs. there and back. The
custodian lives in the village (ll/o fr. each pers., including lights). The
rough path ascends to the left of the road to Gabas and for i/.t hr. i.s
identical with that to Eaux-Bonnes by the Gourzy (p. 121); then it turns
to the right. Prudence should be used in passing from the warm outer
air into the very cold cavern. The Grotto of £aux-Chaudes, which is
about 14,50 ft. deep , is specially remarkable for the torrent which runs
through it and forms at its source a high cascade: tlie guide illuminates
it with Bengal lights. There is a tavern at the entrance of the grotto.
To Gabas akd to Bioi's-Artigues (Pic de Biscaou) , an easy and in-
teresting excursion: 5 and 3 M., carriage-road to Gabas. thence a bridle-
path. — Tlie road is a continuation of that from Pau and Eaux-Bonnes to
the Spanish frontier (p. 119). It soon crosses the Gave d'Ossau and then
steadily ascends the left bank along a most picturesque valley bordered
by wooded mountains, .^fter about I3/4 M. , the path to Accous over
the Col d'Iseye (p. 117) diverges into a valley on the right. Farther on
the valley narrows and the grand Pic du Midi d'Ossau comes into view
on the right. To the left is one of the routes to the Lac d'Artouste (p. 124).
— 5 M. Gabas (3690 ft. : Hotel des Pyrinfe/:, Hotel du Pic du Afidi, both good ;
guide, Camy). the last hamlet on French territory, lies at the confluence
of the Gaves de Brousset and de Bious , which unite to form the Gave
d'Ossau. It is a convenient starting-point for excursions in the upper
124 //. Route 11. EAUX-CHAUDES.
part of the valley (see below). — Travellers should not fail to ascend
the valley of the Gave de Bious to the right , as far as the saw-mill of
(li/o hr.) *Bious-Artigues, for the sake of the view of the Pic du Midi,
the "most striking and complete anywhere obtainable. The mountain rears
its bare majestic peak in solitary grandeur from the midst of a wide
meadow-land which oilers a striking contrast to the gloomy pine-forests
that clothe the mountain- slopes. — The Pic de Biscaou (6560 ft.), to
the W. of Gabas , is another splendid point of view by reason of its
detached situation. The easy ascent (31/2-4 hrs. there and back) is made
partly by the road to the saw-mill, which we quit in the valley of Aule,
and ascend to the E. The descent may be made in 2 hrs., by a couloir'
on the N. side. — To Vrdos and Le Somport, see p. 118.
To THE Pic du Midi d'OssAU. This ascent, one of the most difficult
in the Pyrenees, is only for experienced mountaineers. It occupies a full
day and a good guide and provisions must be taken. The route lies by the
vailey of Gabas (see above) and by the valley of the Gave de Brousset
or by that of the Gave de Bious, which skirt and isolate the mountain,
the former on the E., the latter on the W. side. In the former ease we
follow the road to Spain for about 2 hrs. by carriage or on horseback,
as far as the Case de Brousset (4835 ft.), a ruined inn, wlience we ascend
to the right for 2 hrs. more (riding still practicable) to the Col de Pombie
or de Suzon (6890 ft.), between the Pic de Saoubiste (7245 ft.) on the right
and the Pic du Midi on the left. Soon afterwards the difficulties of the
ascent begin, but they have been lessened by the fi.\ing of iron bars in the
rocks of the three 'chemindes' by which we must climb, the last one
overlooking a precipice. — The route by the valley of the Gave de Bious
follows the road to Bious-Artigues as far as (I/2 M. from Gabas) the Vallon
de Magnabaigt, to the left, ascends this valley for li/2hr., and then mounts
by the (1 hr.) Plateau de Magnabaigt to the Col de Pombie where the above
route is joined. — The Pic du Midi d'Ossau (9465 ft.), which is thus
attained in 5-6 hrs. from Gabas, i.s one of the most characteristic granite
masses of the Pyrenees, rising precipitously from almost every side, like
a gigantic pyramid in ruins, truncated and cleft by some convulsive agency.
Its base is hardly more than a mile in diameter while the circle over
which its debris are scattered is 10 M. in circumference. The prospect is
very extensive, but more grand than beautiful. The principal features
are , to the N. , besides the Pic dWule C7910 ft.), which is very near, the
Valiee d'Ossau and the plain as far as Pau; to the E. , among the High
Pyrenees, the Vignemale and Mont-Perdu; to the S. , tlie mountains and
plains of Aragon ; to the W., the Pie d'Anie, etc. — The Petit Pic (9150 ft.),
still more difficult than the Grand Pie, is reached by the Col de Pey-
reget, between the Pic du Midi and the Picde Peyregtt (8113 ft.), to the S.
To THE Lac d'Aktouste (Pic Palas, Pic d'Arriel, and Pic de Balaitous).
A great part of this excursion , which takes a day , is practicable on
horseback, by the Col d'Arrius or the valley of the Gave de Soussoueou.
By the former route we follow the road to Spain for about IS/4 hr. beyond
Gabas, 1/4 hr. short of the Case de Brousset (see above), and ascend to
the left through woods and by pasture ground, to the (I3/4 hr.) Col d'Arrius
(8050 ft.), whence the lake is visible below us, and is reached in 8/4 l""-
more. — The other route, a little longer and more laborious, diverges
from the Gabas road 21/2 M. from Eaux-Chaudes , crosses the Gave, and
ascends by the right bank of the wild Gorge du Soussoueou , watered by
a torrent that issues from the Lae d'Artouste itself. Half way (about
3 hrs.) we reach a small plain entered on the left by a road coming from
Eau.x- Bonnes via the Col de Lurde (p. 122). Splendid views of the
mountains are obtained, especially of the Pic Palas (dl&On.), the Picd'Arriel
(9260 ft.), and the lialaitous (see below), from the side of the lake. —
The Lac d'Artouste (6446 ft.) is one of the largest in the Pyrenees, having
an area of about 120 acres. It is hemmed in on all sides by rocks and
mountains which, in combination with the solitude of these high regions,
make the scene a very impressive one. A few huts are passed on the
second of the above routes, about 1/2 li"". before reaching the lake; and
the Alpine Club has erected a refuge on the plateau of Arr^moulit. —
ARGELES. //. Route 18. 125
The Pic d'Arriel (9260 ft.; fine view), rising to the S., on the frontier,
may be easily ascended in 21/4-21/0 hrs. from the Col d'Arrius, via the
(I/4 !"••) little Lac d'Arvius and the Col de Sobe (8020 ft.), 1 hr. to the W.
of the summit. — The Pic Palas, or de la I'alas (9760 ft.), nearer the Lac
d'Artouste but also on the frontier, is difficult to climb, and is inferior
as a point of view to both the Pic d'Arriel and the Halaitous. — The
Pic de Bala'itous, or Bat-Laetouse (10,320 ft.), farther to the E., is another
difliciilt peak, ascended in 6 hrs. from the Lac d'Artouste. The route
leads via (2 hrs.) the Col d'Arr^moulit (8055 ft.), between the Arriel and
the Palas, and then follows the ridge by a difficult 'couloir' and a dangerous
ridge, between two precipices.
To THK Baths of Panticosa (Spain), 3 days, allovi'ing one day's visit;
a fine e.xcursion on horseback, via Oabas (p. 123) and the Col du Potirtalet
(5890 ft.), called also Col dWn^ou , on the (13 M.) frontier; then via the
beautiful Valley of Romnigas, the (2 lirs.l large Spanish village of Salient
(4105 ft. ; Berga ; Gonzales) and the poor village of (2 hrs.) Paniicosa, 6 M.
beyond which lie the Baths. The Baths of Panticosa (5575 ft.), celebrated
for their thermal alkaline and sulphureous waters , are situated on the
shores of a blue lake into which fall four cascades, from the bare granite
mountains which surround it. — The return journey may be made via
the (2 hrs.) Port de Marcadaou (about 8200 ft.) and (71/2 hrs.) Cauterets
(see p. 126), but the route is difficult and a guide is necessary.
18, Cauterets and its Environs.
I. From Lourdes to Cauterets.
19 M. Railway to (13 M.) Pierrefitte in 40-50 niin. (fare."; 2 fr. 55, 1 fr.
90, 1 fr. 40c.). Thence Dimcence in the season to (6 M.) Cauterets^ in
13/4-2 hrs. (return 3/^-lhr.), for 2 fr. 75 c. (inside or banquette) ; other
vehicles, 2 fr. Omnibuses from the larger hotels at Cauterets meet the
trains at Pierrefitte (4 fr.). Carriages from the station for 4 pers. and
120 kilos of luggage 14 fr.
Lourdes, see p. 110. Tickets permitting the journey to be broken
here, see p. 109. — The railway make.* a wide circuit to the E.,
diverges to the right from the line to Tarbes, and approaches the
Gave de Pan and Lourdes at the station of Soum-de-la- Lanne.
The valley becomes more and more interesting as we proceed.
Beyond (4 M.) Lugaqnan and (7V2 M.) Bdo-Silhens we cross to the
left bank of the Gave and enter the fertile little plain of Argeles.
On the right i.s a keep, dating from the 14th century.
9V2 M- Argelfes (1525 ft.; Grand- Hotel du Pare ^ de France)
is a small town of 1894inhab., prettily situated at the mouth of the
Valine d'Azun (p. 122). The sulphureous waters of Gazost were con-
ducted hither and a Thermat Establishment erected in 1885. A
handsome new quarter has sprung up beside the railway -station.
English Church Service in summer. Numerou.s walks and points
of view. Road to Kaux-Bonnes, see p. 122.
Beyond Argeles we have on the right St. Savin and on the left
Beaucens (see below). — 13 M. Pierrefitte-Nestalas (Gr.-Hot. dela
Poste: Hot. de France, at the station), a village '/o M. to the S.W.,
where the road from Lourdes via Argeles forks, tlie right branch
going to Cauterets, the left to Luz-St.-Sauveur and Bareges.
A road which diverges from the Lourdes route to the left at the end
of the village, leads in 25 min. to St. Savin, passing the little Chapelle de
126 II. Route 18. CAUTERETS. Hotels.
Piitat, of the 16th cent. , from which there is a fine view. — The village
of St. Savin (Hotel) is built round the celebrated abbey of that name
and should be visited on account of its fine Romanesque Church , which,
with the exception of the 14th cent, steeple , dates from the ll-12th cen-
turies. It contains two noteworthy paintings of the 15th cent. , in nine
compartments, representing the history of .St. Savin, the hermit, and also
his tomb, of the Komanesque period, surmounted by a rich pyramidal
canopy of the 14th century. The chapter - bouse and other parts of the
abbey are also e.\tant.
On the other side of the valley , also visited from Pierrefltte , is the
(3/^ hr.) village of Beaucens, with a large ruined Castle of the 12-16th cent.,
and a small thermal establishment. The road thither diverges to the
j^eft from the Bareges route, a good 1/2 M. from Pierrefltte.
The *RoAD TO Cacterets, one of the finest in the country, is
admirably constructed, like all the roads in the Pyrenees. It leaves
the road to Luz-St. Sauveur and Bareges (RR. 19, 20) to the left,
in the valley of the Gave de Pau, and ascends in a wide and at first
steep ciirve to the valley of the Gave de Cauterets, afi'ording a fine
retrospective view of Pierrefltte and the valley of Argeles. At the
top, to the right, is an argentiferous lead-mine. As we descend, the
P^guere, the height above Cauterets, soon comes into view. About
IV4 M. from Pierrefltte we cross the Gave in order to avoid the
dangerous declivities of the right bank , along which the road ori-
ginally led as far as the Pont de Medlabat . about half-way. Then
we thread a wild defile in which the road is at places cut out of
the rock and supported by walls on the side of the ravine along
which the torrent chafes. On both sides rise steep mountains, partly
clothed with wood. One of the most curious spots is the Lima^on.
a chaos of fallen rocks. Farther on the valley expands gradually
into a small cultivated plain.
II. Cauterets.
Hotels. Grand-Hotel Cokti><'ekt.\l, Gr.-Hot. d'Angleterre, Boulevard
Latapie-Flurin , near the Esplanade, large and fine houses; 6b. -Hot.
Du Boulevard, same Boulevard; Gb.-Hot. des Promenades, on the Espla-
nade, one of the best situated; Gr.-Hot. du Parc , Hot. de la Paix, he
Paris (well spoken of). Place St. JIartin : Richelieu, Rue de la Raillere,
close by; Hot. de France, Rue St. Louis and Rue Richelieu; de Lon-
dres {8 fr.), DES Ambassadeurs, Rue Richelieu; de Russie , Rue de Bel-
fort, to the right beyond the Mairie; de l'Univers , Rue de la Fontaine,
beside the church; etc. — Furnished Apartments are abundant, the town
being able, it is said, to acommodate iO.OOt) strangers at a time. Among
others: Chalet des Bains., near the Etab. des CEufs ; Villa Villetieuve, Mai-
son Piinorin, Toye, Baby, Oent/iieii, Bou'evard Latapie-Flurin; Laiinegraii,
Camman , Rolland , Avenue du Mamelon -Vert , parallel to the above Bou-
levard; Amadc, Place de la Mairie: Qiiellaien, Diihourcau, and Af arty. Rue
St. Louis, near the Place St. Martin ; Mayou, Berot, Bijasson, Cabvols, Flurin,
Danos, Dubertrand, Bizy, Laborde, Yignau, Begtie, Rue de la Raillere, near
the Place St. Martin: lUiel des Princes, Maison du Lion d'Or, Bordenave,
Lousteau, etc.. Rue Richelieu. — On the whole prices are high, as much
as 12 francs being charged for a room at the first-class hotels during the
height of the season (from mid-.Tune to mid-Sept.) , 4 fr. for lunch , and
5 for dinner. Other hotels charge from 8 to 12 fr. a dav (lunch 3- 31/21
D. 3-4 fr.).
Caf^s. Du Casino des CEufs ; Person, Boulevard Latapie-Flurin; Ca/i
Anglais, same Boulevard; Grand Caff, Place St. Martin; etc.
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Mineral Springs. CAUTERETS. II. Route 18. 127
Thermal Establishments. Drinking : Subscription for 25 days from
May 25th to Juue 19th and from Sept. 8th to Oct. 4th, 7 fr. 50 c. ; from
June 20th to Sept. 7th, 15 fr. ; from Oct. 5fh to May 24th, 3 fr. 75 c. —
Baths and Douches: 25 e. to 2 fr. 50 c. according to the time of year, the
hour , and the establishment. Bath or Douche 'de luxe' at the Neother-
mes, 3, both together 5 fr.
Cabs. Drive in the town, 2 pers. 1, 4 pers. li/a fr. ; ascent to La
Eaillere, 3-4 fr.; to Mauhourat, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pre, 81 o and
5 fr.: to Le Bois 5 and 6 fr. ; descent from La Raillere, IV2 and 2 fr. —
Per hour, in the town, 21/.2 and 31/2 fr. ; outside the town, 5 and 6 fr.
the first hr. and 3 and 4 fr. per hr. afterwards.
Omnibus. To Pierrefitte, see p. 125; to La Raillere, 75c. up, and
25 c. down.
Carriages, Horses, and Donkeys for hire in large numbers. Carriage, per
day 20 to 25 fr. (bargaining necessary). — TaritV for horses indicated
beiow at the beginning of each e.xcursion. Donkeys are usually 1/.5 cheaper
than liorses.
Guides. These number about 60 and are divided into two classes,
the first class having a white cloth crown above their badge. The best
mountain-guides are CUment Latoiir, J. -P. and Dom. Latapie, Dom. Pont,
J.-Af. Sarreites , Pierre Bordenare. The charges are given at the head of
each excursion. The usual cliarge is 15 fr. a day, and the guide's pro-
visions, except on the return journey.
Casino, at the Thermes des OLufs. Subscription, including reserved
seats at entertainments : in the middle of the season, for 1, 2, 3 and 4 weeks,
gentlemen, 25, 45, 65, and 75 fr. ; ladies, 20, 40, 60, and 70 fr. ; cheaper at
beginning and end of season (see bills). Seats in the theatre: in the
middle of the season, reserved, 4 fr. ; front row, 3 fr.
Post and Telegraph Office, at the Hotel de Ville.
English Church Service in summer (French Church).
Caiiterets (3055 ft.) is a small town of 1941 iiihab., very beauti-
fully situated in a valley encompassed by lofty mountains and on
the banks of the torrent of the .^ame name. The town contains
nothing more noteworthy than the magnificent hotels recently erect-
ed in the new quarter to theW., near the Esplanade, and this pro-
menade itself with the Etablissement des (Eufs (view, see p. 128), to
which perhaps may be added the new Gothic church. As a thermal
station, however, it ranks amongst the first not only in the Pyrenees,
but in the whole of France: while it is also one of the chief centres
for excursions in the High Pyrenees. Though the season only lasts
from the end of May to the beginning of October, the town is visited
annually by about 20.000 patients and tourists.
The centre of the town is the Place St. Martin, at the end of the
Rue Richelieu, the continuation of the Pierrefitte road, and the
adjoining Place de la Mairie. These squares are the termini for
the public conveyances. From the former diverge the streets leading
to the chief bathing-establishments, except the Etablissement des
(Eufs, which is situated on the P^splanade. to the left of the farther
side of the Place de la Mairie and of the Gave.
The Watebs of Cauterets contain chiefly sulphur and sodium,
but there are also sulphate and alkaline waters. They are supplied
by 24 Springs, several of w hich are very copious. They are, in fact,
the most copious in the Pyrenees, yielding about 440,000 gallons
per day. They vary greatly in temperature (61 to 131° Fahr.) and
128 II. Route 18. CAUTERETS. Bafh-Establishments.
even in composition, though not so much in this latter respect as
the waters of Bagneres-de-Luchon (p. 153). Cauterets possesses nine
establishments, admirably arranged for the requirements of drinking,
bathing, douches, inhalation, and pulverization.
The Thermes des (Eifs, called also simply Les CEnfs, are the
principal and the most remarkable of these establishments. This
huge building was erected in 1867-69 at the foot of the wooded
slopes of the P^guere and between the Promenades de TEsplanade
and des Lacets {p. 129). It is fed by the six Sources des QLtifs
(131°rahr.). about IV4 M. to the S. , which supply no less than
132,000 gallons a day. It contains a swimming-bath of running
water, 22 yds. long and 9 yds. wide. The waters of this establish-
ment are principally used in the treatment of chlorosis, anaemia,
and diseases of the skin and mucous membranes. The offices of the
company that rents the waters are also at Les (Eufs, while the first
floor is occupied by the Casino, which comprises reading and card
rooms, a caf^-restaurant, and a theatre.
The Thermes de Cesar et des Espagnols, to the S.E. of the
town , at the end of a street leading from the Place St. Martin,
occupy a plain building in the neo-classic style, dating from 1844.
The baths here are fed on the left by the Sowrce de Cesar (1 18° Fahr.),
so named in remembrance of an alleged visit of Caesar to Cauterets ;
on the right by the Source des Espciiinols (116° Fahr.), both of which
issue a little higher up from the Montague de Peyraoute. These
waters, the most powerful in Cauterets, are chiefly used in the
treatment of chronic diseases of the respiratory organs and in
scrofulous and syphilitic affections, skin diseases, and rheumatism.
The establishment is open all the year round.
The Neothermes or Bains dit liocher-Biettmiset, constructed in
1863 and enlarged in 1879, are situated in a pretty garden, about
200 yds. to the N. of the preceding. They may be reached directly by
a passage through the Hotel du Pare. They are fed by three springs,
viz. those of C'e'sar- Nouveau (113° F.), Le Rocher (104° F.), which
contains iron, and Rieumiset (61° F.). These waters are specially
adapted to cutaneous and rheumatic afi'ections for persons of ner-
vous and irritable temperament.
Higher up . on the slope of the Montagne de Peyraoute, are the
less important establishments of Pauze-Vieux Sind Pauze-Nouveau
(the second closed at present).
The Etablissement de la Raillere, the most important of all,
is situated nearly a mile to the S. of the town on the road (omnibus,
see p. 127) on the right bank, forming a continuation of the Rue de
la Raillere; but there is a short-cut for pedestrians beginning on
the Esplanade. The establishment has been rebuilt, with galleries
and promenades. It is situated 3640 ft. above the sea-level (580 ft.
above Cauterets), on a declivity of the mountain covered with fallen
rocks (raillere). It is built over the three springs which feed it
Promenades. CAUTERETS. J I. Route 18. 129
(103°, 100°and 91° Fahr.) and which aieso abuiiilaiitthat even horses
an- treated. In the cure ol' diseases of the respiratory organs it vies
with Eaiix-Bonnes (p. 120). The site commands a fine view.
Still more distant are the Burette de Mauhourat (122''Fahr.)
and the Bavette den G-Aifs: the Suitrre des Yeux (68° Fahr.) ; the
Etablissement du Petil-St. Sauveicr (.111° Fahr.), the EtahUssement
du P/T.' (108° Fahr.j, and finally, higher up, the Etablissement dm
Bins (109° and 91° Fahr.), the most remote (3670 ft.) but highly
esteemed for the cure of rheuiuatism. The Cascade deCerisey (p. 131)
lies only ','4 hr. higher up.
Canterets has fine promenades. The Esplanade des (Eufs is the
favourite resort of visitors during the concerts which are given in
tlif afternoon, at 4 p.m.. and it is flanked by little shops of all kinds.
The Esplanade is an excellent point from which to take one's bearings,
lielore starting on excursions from Cauterets. The P^guere, to the S.,
liehind Les (Eufs, has already been mentioned. Beyond the Raillhe is
the Pic de Hoiirm^gaf, separated from the Peguere by the ValU-e du Jrret,
In wliieh is the road to the Lac ile Gaube , etc. To the left of the
Hourmegas is the Vallee ile Liitour, mi the crest of the opposite side of
« hich rise several bare peaks , with patclies of snow even in summer.
The chief of these is the Fie iCAfdiden, on the other side of which is
St. Sauveur; then from K. to W. , above the town, the Pic de Pene-Nitre,
the Pic de Viscos , the I'ic de Cabaliioi: , to the left of the valley of the
<Tave de Cauterets, aiul the Mount, separated from the Pegviere by the
ValUe de Cambaaqve, in wliieh is the Lac Bleu, etc.
On the slope of the Pe'guhe (ascent, see p. 131) extends the
Promenade des Lacets or de Cambasque , which is not fatiguing
and affords a fine view at the exit from the wood, about 25 min.
from Les (Eufs. The roar! leading to the Raillere route diverges to
the left, about V4 JVI. farther on.
The Promenade dtt M<an(lo)i - Vert continues the avenue of the
same name down the valley. It is deficient in shade. At the end
we turn to the right, cross the Gave, and regain the town by the
Pierrefitte road. The Mamelon -Vert is tlie name given to the knoll
on the right, between the promenade and the Gave; it commands a
line view of the head of the valley. Iji the town itself, above the
l^ierreWtte road and near the Neothermes, is a pretty and shady Parh'.
now somewhat neglected, though still a resort of the visitors. —
.Vbo\e this passes the road which leads, on the slope of the
Montagne de Peyraoute, to the [i^n IM.) hamlet of Cance'ru. well
shaded in the afternoon and offering beautiful views. "We may
descend hence to the Pierrefitte road, which we reach near the
junction with the Mamelon -Vert road. — Still higher is the road
to the Grange de la. Reine- Hortenst . issuing from the Etablisse-
ment de Pauze-Vieux. It is identical with that to tlie Col de Riou
p. 13o). The grange (barn), which is reached in V2 ln-i owes its
name to the fact that Queen Hortense, when a vistor to Cauterets.
was once detained at it by a storm.
Uaedeker. Southern France. 9
130 Roiite 18. MONNE. Excursions
III. Excursions.
To THE MoNNE, 'd^/o-i his., 6'/2 hrs. there and back; an easy
excursion, practicable on horseback; guide 12 I'r., horse 12 fr.
Pedestrians turn to the left from the Avenue du Mamelon-Vert and
skirt the Peguere from E. to \V., by the (•'/4 hr.) Vallte de Cambasqu&,
cross the torrent of that name, also called Paladere, and ascend
to the (P/4 hr.) Plateau des Cinquets {nllb ft.; refreshments),
1 hr. from the top. — The bridle-path follows the road to th^^
Raillere, and crossing the bridge, turns to the right and skirts the
flank of the Peguere until 1^/4 hr.) it joins the preceding path. The
horses must be left at the inn, about 450 ft. below the summit. —
The Monn6 or Sown de Monne' (8935 ft.) is one of the nearest and
most conspicuous mountains seen from Cauterets , for which it
serves as a kind of barometer, the weather being foretold from the
state of the mists in which it is often enveloped. The ^^. side, to-
wards the Val du Lys, is precipitous, but the N. side descends in
a gentle slope towards the valley of Labat-de-Bun , and ends in a
slaty crest, from which there is a wide view, extending W. to the
head of the Val d'Azun; N. over the flanks of the Cabaliros (see
below) to the plains of Tarbes and B^arn; E. to the Pic du Midi de
Bigorre, the Neouvielle, and Mont-Perdu; and S. to the Vignemale
and the Balaitous. In the middle distance, to the S. , is the Lac
Bleu or Lac d'lUeou (see below).
To the Cabaliros, 4 hrs., there and back 6 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.,
horse (see below) 10 fr. We follow the Promenade du Mamelon-
Vert for about V2 M. , then turn to the left behind the shed of a
large white house, and skirt the flanks of the Peyrenere to the
(1 hr.) Plateau d' Esponne (refreshments). Thence we gain the
(V2 hi".) E. buttresses of the Monn^, beyond which the ascent be-
comes more difficult. After passing a (V? hi'-) slaty terrace we reach
the (1 hr.) Col de Contente (6940 ft.; fine view), on which is an inn.
Horses can ascend still farther, though the guides sometimes assert
the contrary. The rest of tlie climb is easy. — The rounded Caba-
liros (7655 ft.) is the principal summit to the N. of Cauterets. It is
crowned by an ordnance-survey tower. The "''Panorama from the toj),
one ot the finest in the Pyrenees, resembles that from the Monne.
but excels it as it includes the valley of Argeles.
To THE Lac Blec or Lac d'Illkou, 5 hrs. on foot, 4 hrs. on lior.sebael^,
there and back; guide 10, horse 8 fr. We take the route to the Moniu-
as tar as the Plateau de Cambasque (see al)ove); then, following the val-
ley . we pass (3 hrs.) in front of the fine Cascade d'lUtou and farther on
the little Lac A'oir. — The Lac Bleu or Lac cVIlUou, is 6515 ft. above the
sea and covers nearly 30 acres. Its lonely situation and wild surround-
ings contrast strikingly with the deep blue tint of its limpid waters.
To the E. rises the I'ic dt Xet$ (8025 ft.). The return mav be made to the
S.E. by the Pout d'Enpagne (see below); it thus requires dVohrs., and the
guide is paid 5 Ir. e.xtra.
To THE *Lac de Gaibe (Pic Peg u ire) , 2',2 hrs. on foot, 4'/4-
4' '2 hrs. there and back; guide (not needed) 8, hoise 8 fr. This
fruiii Cautereti. PEGUERE. II. liouU 18. Icil
is one of the favourite excursions from Cauterets, as far at least as
the Cascade de Cerises, up to which point there is a carriage-road,
and the Pont d'Espagne, to whicli the road is to be continued.
Passing the Kaillere and the other establishments in the upper part
of the valley, we reach the Val de Je'ret. on the right, and skirt
it? torrent, the bed of which is almost blocked with huge boulders.
The mountain on the opposite side is the P^guere(see below). Farther
on. beyond the Etablissement du Bois and a small cascade, the
roar of the (l'/4hr.) imposing "^Cascade de Ce'risey (4050 ft. above
the sea -level) becomes audible. The stream is split into two by a
mass of rock from either side of which it falls into a deep ab\ss
between two walls of rock. The best time to see it is between
10 o'clock and noon, when rainbows are formed above it by the
sun. There are two more cascades of less importance farther on.
^Ve traverse striking scenery to (about ^/^ hr. beyond the Cascade)
the Font d'Espagne (4880 ft.), a primitive bridge at which there is
another cascade and where the torrent and valley of Marcadaou de-
bouch. On the other side is an inn (dear). For this valley and the
excursions in it see p. 132. — The path to the (-^4 hr.) Lac de
Gaube, rather laborious for the first V4 hr., continues to ascend the
left bank of the torrent. The scenery becomes more and more wild
and at last tliere appears before us the Vignemale with its glacier.
The Lac de Gaube (5865 ft.) is about 800 yds. long and 350 yds.
wide, with an area of about 40 acres , in the middle of a wide and
bleak basin fornuul by the bare sides of the Pic Meya (8080 ft.) on
the E. and the Pic de Gaube (7540 ft.) to the ^Y.. etc. It abounds
in trout and is fed by the glacier of the Vignemale, to the 8. (see
p. 132). (-)n the bank of the lake stand an inn (fixed tariff) and a
monument in memory of a young Englishman and his wife who
were drowned in the lake in 1832.
To THE Peguere, 3'/2hrs., there and back 6 hrs.; guide 8 fr.
We follow the above route to (1 V4 hr.) the Cascade de Cerisey, a little
beyond which is a bridge, with a placard, indicating the forest-path
to the P^guere. This route ascends in zigzags above precipices
1650 ft. high, on the S. of the mountain, and reaches ('/^hr.) the last
spring (4395 ft.) on this slope. From the point (5250 ft.), '2 hr.
farther up. where the road forks, we ascend the ravine of the Lnoime.
by means of paths, difficult to find without a guide, and which cease
bofore the summit is reached. ^ The Pic Pegufere (7175 ft.) is the
wooded mountain which rises above Cauterets beliind the Thermes
des CEufs, and which appears in the vista of the valley as we come
from Pierretttte. A magnificent view is commanded by the paths
at a height of 6500 ft. above the sea. or 3445 ft. above the town.
To the E. and W. the view extends into the valleys of J<?rer ami
Cambasque. but it is more or less limited by the higher peaks that
bound these valleys, as well as b\ those of the chain to the S. of
the Peguere.
9*
132 II. lioute 18. VIGNEMALE. Excuisions
To THE ViGnuMAi-K, 2 (lays (1 day from Gavariiie, see p. 140), the
iiiglit being speut at tlic Lae de Gaube, whence it is ascended in 5-7 lirs.
'1 he ascent is laborious and only adapted to experienced climbers with
good guides. A single tourist should take two guides. Rope and axe
necessary. Guide, 30 fr. for one day or for two. Riding is practicable
as far a.s the Cascade d'Esplumous. — To the Lac de Gaube, see above.
Pedestrians may shorten the journey by rowing up the lake (1 fr. each).
Thence we continue to ascend beside the torrent, which forms several
cascades , the chief of which is the Cascade d' Esplumous or de fiplumonse,
13/4 hr. from the inn on the lake. The ascent of the Pic de Chabarrou
(p. 133), on the right, is usually made from the second cascade, beside
wliich is a hut. Farther on we reach the Oulettes du Vigneinale or de Gaube
(7210 ft.), the last terrace in the valley, 1 hr. beyond the chief cascade.
Hence we have a grand view of the N. glacier and the precipices of
the mountain, which rears itself to a sheer height of more than 8000 ft.
To the left rise the Pic d'Araille and the Pie de Labassa, both ascended
from this side (p. 133). From this point to the Vignemale there is a choice
<if two routes. One leads to the S. E. to (1 hr.) the Hourquette d'Ossotie
or Col du Vignemale (8985 ft.), either by the base of the glacier or, which
is much better, by the buttresses of the Araille. Beyond the col the
tUacier d^ Ossoiie , or E. glacier of the Vignemale. e.xtends on the right
upwards of I1/2 M. in length and 1/0 M. in width. It is advisable not to
cross this glacier , but to skirt it so as to avoid the most dangerous part,
which will take I1/2 hour. Finally we cross a little bit of it, using the
rope* then the neve between the Montferrat or Cerbillona on the left, and
the Pique Longue on the right, arriving in I/2 hr. at the foot of the latter,
the principal peak , which is climbed in 20 min. more across loose red
slate. — The second route, longer by about 1^/4 hr. , but easier, leads
to the S.W. over the (1 hr.) Col des' Unlets or des Oulettes (7600 ft.), on
the frontier, whence bending to the left, we continue at the same level
for 20 min. as far as the Clot de la Jlount , a ravine with a very dan-
gerous glacier (falling stones) which should be avoided, whence we climb
the (2 hrs. 20 min.) \Montferrat and .so reach the neve' of the Glacier
d'Ossoue; thence to the foot of the Pique LongJte (I/4 hr. : see above). —
The Vignemale (10,820 ft.) is the highest summit in the French Pyrenees,
the Monts-Maudits with the Nethou (11.160 ft.) and the Maladetta (11,005 ft.),
the Pic Posets (11,045 ft.), the Mont-Perdu (10,660 ft.), and the Cylindre
(10,920 ft.) being in Spain. It rises in nine peaks, the chief of which
is the Pique Longue, separated by an impassable chasm from the Petit
Vignemale ( lO.SiS ft.), which may he ascended in II/2 hr. from the llour-
i|uette d'Ossoue. The panorama from the Vignemale is most extensive,
l>ut it only includes a chaotic assemblage of mountains, hard to identify
at this height, except those of the Marbore group. There are three re-
fuges or grottoes near the Col de Cerbillona (10,500 ft.), 20 min. below the
.summit, not accessible, however, before August. The descent may be
made on the Gavarnie side (see p. 140).
To the Valley of Marcadaou or Mnirddnii, ;}i .^ hrs. on foot,
■2'/2-''^ li'"'''- "" horsobHi'k ;i.s f-ir ;is the Kscalier de hi Fotirtere,
there and back 6 or f) hrs., 1 hr. more to the Cabane de Maieadaou:
guide (not needed) and horse 8 or 10 fr. each. — To the (2 Lrs.)
i'unt (VEspagne. .see p. 131. We cross the bridge and ascend be-
v^ide the Gave de Marcadaou as far as the (^/4 hr.) Plateau <le
Cayan (5255 ft.), a charming and solitary region amidst lofty
mountains, covered with woods affording a retreat (o bears and
heath-cocks. Path to the Lac Bleu, see p. 130. Farther on we leave
to the left the Vallun de Poueytrenous or Poueytrtumus, which
ascends tovsards the Pic de Chabarrou (see below), cross the torrent.
aiKl reach the i^'^ hr.) EsroU.er de In Pourfire (5510ft.). We recros.s
fvom Cnutetets. V.VLLKY OK LUTOUR. U. Uuidc 18. 133
the torrent ami readi in '/jlir. the Cab<ine de Marcadaou (5905 ft.),
ill the meadows of the Pin de In Gole. Hence the Som do B.icci-
maille (see below) is seen to advantage.
The hut, which has roDin for six persons, is an excellent staiting-
point for other excursions, especially tor the tolerably easy ascent of the
Soiii de Haccimaille or Grande t'ache (9905 ft.). which requires 33/4 hrs.,
and for the diflicult ascent tif the Pic d' En/ei\ or Quejeda de Ptindiltos
{10.210 ft.), in .Spain, which requires 4^/4 or 7 hrs., according to the route
taken from the Port de Marcadaou (see below), the shorter one leading
by the glacier to the N., the lunger by the Col de Salient. These excur-
sions should, of course, not be made without a guide.
The track along the valley is continued to the (2 hrs.) Port de Mar-
cadaou (8370 ft.). on the frontier, whence the Baths of Pantieosa (p. 12^i)
may be reached in 21/2-3 hrs.. witli guide.
To THE I'll DE Ch.vbaisroi- . about 7 hrs. , 4i/.j hrs. from the Lac de
Gaube: guide 15 fr., or, including the return by the Valley of -Marcadaou.
20 fr. Following the route to the Vignemale as far as the second cascade
bevond the I.ac'de Gaube (p. 131), we there take a path to the right (W.)
wliicli leads to (1 hr.) the beautiful Lac de Vhahavrou (74Srj It.). Thente
we ascend straight to the summit in 1^/4 hr.. by a very steep slope, over
debris, a short neve, and some precipitous rocks. The Pic de Chabarrou
(9550 ft.) is one of the finest ascents in the neighbourhood of Cauterets.
both on account of its situation and of its height. From the top the
neighbouring Vignemale is particularly well seen , and beyond it tin-
mountains of Spain. The view extends from the Pic d'Anie to Mont-Perdu
and the Pic du Midi de Bigorre. — The descent mav be made on the N.
bv the Valley of Marcadaou, via the (I/2 l»i'-^ Driche (8920 ft.), the Valle)i
and the (U/s hr.) Cabane de Poneyirenoiis, the (l/o lir.) Plateau de Caiiaii
(see above). 'and the (Vi hr.) Pont d\t:spagne (p. 131).
To THE Pic 1)"Ar.mi.i,e am> THE Pic HE Labass.v. about 61 /•_> and 8I/2 hrs. ;
guide 15 and 20 fr. We follow the Vignemale route as far as the (01/4 hrs.)
Oiileitea de Vigneniale , where «e turn to the left, between the slopes of
the two mountains, ascending to the left for the first named peak, and
to the right for the second. We pass through gaps, respectively 8,4 and
13/4 hr. from the Oulettes. The Pic d'Araillfi (!)f)60 ft.) is easily ascended
in less than 1 j hr. from its gap and commands a line view, in which the
Vignemale is conspicuous. ~ The Pic Labassa, A,nr .SV'rfe, or /.a SHie (9780 ft. I,
is on the other hand a diflicult ascent, in the higher part at least, which
requires nearly ll/o hr. from the gap. Its greater height commands
a liner view than the Araille: and even the col commands a beautiful
survey. The descent may be made on the side next the valley of l.utour
<see below) to the (1-11/4 hr.) I>ac d'Estom.
To the Valley of Lutour, 3 his. to the Lac dEstoui. there
and back 5' ^ hrs.: guide (iiiini^cessary) 8. horse 6 fr. This valley
opens to the left at the Huvette de Maiihourat ip. 129). at the con-
fluence of the torrents of Marcadaou and Lutoiir. A little liiulicr
up is a Cascade, where horses ford the stream, while pedestrians
ascend straight on. The steepest part of the path is passed within
1 hr. from the confluence, and the footpath rejoins the bridle-path
by means of another bridge. About '2 hrs. from Cauterets we jiass
a dairy, known as La Fruiticre. The path by which the Pic d'.Vr-
diden is ascended from this side (see below) diverges to the left:
the scenery becomes striking. The slope on the right is well-
wooded, while that on the left is seamed and scarred, and termin-
ates in a rugged rocky crest, wliich culminates in the Pic d"Ar-
diden. We recross to the left bank at a triple Cascade, ami the
134 //. Rorde IS. PIC D'ARDIDEN.
bridle-patli ends t^lioitly afterwards at the foot of a crag, which we
must ascend to reach the lake. — The Lac dTstom (8205 ft.) Is a
little smaller than the Lac de Gaube, bnt no less picturesque. It is
lolder and contains no flsh. On the bank is an inn.
Farther up to the right is a path to the (1 hr.) Hourqiittte d'Araille,
by wliieh we may ascend (with guide) the Pic iVArailU (see above) or
reach (about 4 hrs.) the Lac de Gaitbe, thence returning to Cauterets.
Still higher up flic valley lie seven lakes of ditlerent sizes, known
as the Lacs iV Eslom - Houbiran. About 3 hrs. are required to reach the
end of the valley, wliich is picturesque throughout. From tlie end we
ascend in l/:; hr. to tlie Col tVEstom - flovbiran , which commands a good
view of the Vignemale. — To Gavarnie via this Col and the Col de
Mallerouge, see below.
To THE Pic nWiioiDEN via Peyhaocte, 5 hrs., there and hack 8 hrs. ;
guide 20 fr. This expedition is well worth making. We ascend past the
0/.ihr.) Grange de la Reine Hortense (p. 129) and farther on, to the right
(S.W.) towards the crest of the mountain, then turn ti) the S.E. to the
l2 hrs.) Cahane de Peyraoute , to which point riding is practicable; and
thence to the Col dWrdiden. We ne.xt enter a gorge full of fallen rocks
and containing the (1 hr.) Lacs d'Ardiden . the largest of w hich (i/o hr.),
the Lac Grand (7805 ft.), alVords a magnificent spectacle. Thence, crossing
some snow, we gain the N. slope of the peak, the ascent of which is
toilsome, and in fhr. more reach the top of the Pic d'Ardiden (9805 ft.),
which is composed , like its sides , of a cliaos of rocks jiroduced by the
disintegration of the granite. There is a magnificent view of the plain,
and the surrounding valleys, as well as of the Kalaitous , Vignemale,
the mountains round Gavarnie, Neouvielle , etc. — The descent may be
made to Cauterets via the Valley of Lutour (see above) in 3-31/2 f"'s.
The ascent is also sometimes made from tliis side. .Another descent leads
to (4 hrs.) Luz (p. 135). via the lakes mentioned above, the Col dWsirtis,
and the VatUe du Bernazaou.
To G.WARNiE isY THE MouxT.MKS (roiite via Pierrefitte and
^>t. Sauveur, see pp. 126 and 135). — 1. Via the Lac de (inuhe, about
10 hrs., guide 10 fr., and as much for tlie return, which may be made
by the alternative route. We follow the Vignemale route as far as the
IIiiKi-qiietfe d'Ossoue (about 6 hrs.; p. 132) and thence descend to
the ^<. towards the ('/2 hr.) (iaie f/'0.<so»f, the right bank of whieh
v^e follow. To the left is the Cascade de.< Ouleffe.'^. and farther on
are the (i/j hr.) Ba.<s/n des Oniette^ (6100 ft.), the P<is des Oitlettes.
the C/ihr.) Plan de Millao (5715 ft.). and the (1 hr.) Cnhaiie!< de
.*^a«.<se' (5480 ft.). Thence the path, which remains on the right
bank, is practicable for horses. It descends rapidly through
wood . and crosses the torrent '/a lir- before Gavarnie (p. 138). —
2. Via the Valley of Lutoitr, aboiit 11 hrs.; guide as above. There
are two exits from the head of the valley: fl'i The Col d' Esto7n-
Soiibiran (6'/2-7hrs. : see above), whence we descend into the Vnlle'e
d Ossone (see above). (2) The C>d de. Mallerouge (9315 ft.), 1 hr. to
the K. of the first Lac d'Kstom-Soubiran , and to the N. of the J'ic
de MaUeroiifie (9740 ft.^. Thence we keep to the S. via the ('.'.^ lir.)
('id de Iluiiie (8860 ft.) and the ('/^ hr.) Cahane de Salent (6510 ft.),
and thence again to the K. by the valley of the (rave f/'.ls;)c'(ehaos),
and tinally once more to the S. to (iavnrnie (see p. 138).
To THE Pic de Viscos, 31/2 hrs.. there and back 51/2 hrs., a little less
on horseback: shorter from St. Sauveur (p. 137). Guide 10 fr. .An ascent
LUZ. //. Route. 19. 135
(if 2 brs. takes us by the Grange de la Eeine Hortense Cp. 129) to the Col
de Riou (6375 It.), on which there is a small inn, '/a hr. from the top of
the Pene-yere (about 6560ft.), whence also the view is very extensive. Thence
following to the X. the E. slope of the mountain, we reach in ^/4 hr. the
foot of the peak and easily climb in a N.W. direction to the Pic de
Viscos (7025 ft.). The view is linest on the side next the plain, and
extends over the mountains as far as the Balaitous. the Vignemale, Mont
Perdu, and Xeouvielle. Among the nearer peaks, the Cabaliros in the W.,
the Monne in the S.. and the Bergons in the S. E. attract attention.
To Lvz a>;d Ft. S.wvevr over thk Col de Riou (by the road, see
p. 126 and below), about 4 hrs. : guide and horse, 8 fr. each as far as the
col , 15 fr. to Luz , 10 only for the guide if he is on horseback. As far
as the Col de Kiou, see above. We descend by pasture-grounds and the
Crangts de Ciirtilles (4165 ft.), to the little village of Grust, whence pro-
ceeding to the S.E. via Sazos and Safsif, we reach Luz or St. Sauveur" in
about 3/4 hour.
19. Luz, St. Sauveur, and their Environs.
I. From Lourdes to Luz and St. Sauveur tBardges).
Kaii.wav to (13 31.) Pierre/itle-.Veslalax as for Cauterets (p. 125), thence
mad (8-9 M.) and diligence (3 fr.) in the season in IS/4 hour. Carriages
alsip during the season as for Cauterets.
Our road leaves the Cauterets road on the right, beyond Pierre-
tttte, crosses the Gave de Cauterets to the village of Soulom. and
a <hort distance farther the Gave de Pau. Here, about I'l^M. from
Fierrefitte, begins the *Goige de Luz. re.?embling that on the Caute-
rets road. It is about M. long and the road in many places is cut
"ut along the rocks or supported on walls built at the side of the
torrent. After about 2',2"^ ^^- ^^'^ pass, on the right, the Pont de
r Krhelle and the Pont d'Arsimpe'. neither of which we cross as the
"pposite bank is exposed to avalanches of stones. Tlie road gradually
i^cends until it is about 260 ft. above the stream. — 4' jM. Punt de
In Crnhe. a lofty bridge over a ravine on the left, beyond which a
tolerably wide grassy basin is entered. — AVe cross the i5' , M.)
Pont de la Hieladere fo the left bank, but in order to reach Luz
recross by the (7 M.) Pont de Pescadere, beyond which tlie road
runs under a fine avenue of poplars. To the left is the ruined
( Itijteau de Ste. Marie. — Luz, see below.
Those who are bound for St. Sauveur continue straight on past
the Pont dePescadere, and ascend the stream beyond the confluence
of the Gave de Gnvarnie and the Gave de Bastan, which unite to
form the Gave de Pau. — St. Sauveur, see p. 1.S6.
II. Luz and St. Sauveur.
Luz. — Hotels. "Hoi. DE 1,'UsiVERs, where the public conveyances
halt, lunch 3, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. des Pvrekees ; de France. — Caf^s. Divan,
at the Hot. de ITnivers: Glnbe, at the Hot. de France: de V Europe (Club). —
Etaei.issement Thermai.. Buvette, 20 c. per glass of mineral water; sub-
M-ription per month. 10 fr. from June 25th to Sept. 14th, at other seasons,
half these charges: liaths and douches from 1 to 2Va fr., etc.
Jaiz (2425 ft.), a small town of 1514 inhab." is situated on the
Uareges road and on theP.astan, in a valley of which it was at one time
136 II. Route 19. ST. SAUVEUR.
the practically iiulepeiiderit capital. It is mucli frequented in
summer, botli on account of its situation, and the vicinity of the
dependent village of St. Sauveur, as well as on account of the
Thermes, erected in 1881, when the waters of the Barzun Spiinii
(81" F. , resembling those of St. Sauveur) were conducted from
Bareges to the town. The 'Etablissement' is situated to the left
of the road to St. Sauveur, which diverges to the right from the
road to Bareges, a little beyond the coach -office. The waters are
specially adapted for nervous diseases. The t7i»)c/i, which is reached
by the street to the left, at the beginning of the above-mentioned
road, is a curious structure assigned to the Templars and possibly
in parts as old as the 12th cent., but with many later additions.
No't only is it embattled and fortified like many other cliurches
in this part of the country, but it is also enclosed in a line of defen-
sive works. The apse is flanked by two towers of which the one
on the N. side is a kind of keep. The Romanesque N. portal is in-
teresting. At the W. end, on the right, is a large 16th cent, chapel. In
the Templars' tower (here is a small museum of antiquities (•/•> fr-)-
An interesting stroll (1 hr. there and back) may be made to the very
picturesque ruins of the Chateau Ste, Marie, situated on a hill, beyomi
the Bastan.
To the S. of the town, charmingly situated on a knoll, in view of
St. Sauveur, is the Chapelle de Solf^rino^ a flne modern building in the Ro-
manesque style on the site of one formerly belonging to a hermitage there.
The Excursions from Luz are practically identical with those from
•St. Sauveur.
St. Sauveur lies little more than '/., M. from Luz. The road
passes the Thermes of Luz, and crosses the Gave de Gavarnie; there
is also a short-cut for pedestrians, near the bridge.
St. Sauveur. — Hotels. Hot. de Paris; de France, including several
houses, R. 3, D. 4 fr. : des Princes; des Bains, pens. 10 fr. ; du Parc. —
Furnished Apartments. Villa Beau - Site (Hot. de France); Padre; Villa
Enijiiiie: Villa Ducnnte. — llestaurant de V H6tel de France, with caf^ ;
Restaurant Frani;ais.
Etablissements Thermaux. Uains des Dames, use of the water for drinking
and gargling, 6 fr. for 30 day,s, between .Tune 15th and Sept. 6th, 2 fr. at
other seasons; baths s/^-^i/.. fr., according to hour and season. — Thermes
de la Hontalade, baths 1 fr.''30e.-2 fr.
Guides and Horse - hirers, Fr. Serp, Lons, Fortanet, Martin, NoijvH;
the two last at Luz. — TurilV given below for each excursion.
English Church Service in summer.
.S7. Saurenr (2525 ft.) is a prettily situated village of recent
origin, consisting of a single street, running up the H slope of
the Som de Laze (6025 ft.), above the gorge through which rushes
the Gave de Gavarnie. Many tourists visit it, especially those on
the way to Gavarnie, but the place owes its chief importance to its
warm sulphureous springs, beside which two 'Etablissements' have
been erected. The principal of these, the Etnhlhsement des J)nnie».
fed by the spring of that name (93" F.), is situated in the middle
of the village, to the left as we arrive. The mineral waters are
4-hiefly used for maladies of women and for nervous diseases.
im^rp 3.7Xp?A ■
Vallee dAure
PIC DK NKRE. 11. Hon If lU. l:'.?
Below the estublisliineiit is a flue public promenade, known as liu-
Jardin Anglais, sloping steeply down to the stream, which is crossed
by a bridge giving access to the direct road from Luz to the Pont
Napoleon (see below).
The Theimes de (a Hontalade are situated 820 ft. above St.
Sauveur. on a plateau reached in lOmin. by an easy ascent beginning
almost directly opposite the first-named establishment. The water
of La Hontalade (TOT.) resembles that of Les Dames, but contains
a considerably larger proportion of sulphate of soda. The Plateau
de la Hontalade. which commands a flTie view, is a favourite resort.
The Chvrch of St. Sauveur. near the upper end of the village,
is a modern Gothic edifice, with a tasteful spire. — A little farther
■on, on the road to Gavarnie, the *Pont Napole'on. 220 ft. long, with
a span of 150 ft., crosses the stream at a height of 212 ft. At a
distance the bridge looks like a gigantic portal to the ravine, especially
when vie^^ ed from the bank of the stream.
III. Excursions.
To Cauterets . over the Col de Riou, see p. 135; to tlie J'ic dWrdiden,
see p. 134.
To THE Pic nr, Viscos (7025 ft.), 3i/..> hrs. , there and back 51/2 hrs. ;
guide 10, horse 8 fr. This easy and interesting excursion follows the Col
de Riou route to the N.W. as far as the (1 hr.) Granges de Cureilles
(p. 135), thcu leads to the right iu the direction of the Pic, which is
scaled on the N.W. side (see p. 135).
To THE Pic de Nere, S'/^hrs. from Luz. there and back G'/ohrs.,
a delightful excursion which can be made on horseback part of the
way; guide 12. horse 10 fr. : adders abound. We leave Luz by the
Bareges road and after 45 min. cross the stream. Beyond (1 hr.)
Sets (;>705 ft.) we continue to ascend to the N. to the (1'/, hr.)
Cahanes d' Arbe'onsse (5850 ft.), whence we bear to the W. to the
(1 hr.) Col d'Arbeuasse (7105 ft.; flue view). A clitnb of '/■> hi"-
along the arete brings us to the summit of the *Pic de N6r6 or de
Nere (7875 ft.), one of the best points of view in the district. The
panorama to the S. . embracing the huge group of the Cirque de
Gavarnie. is only inferior to that from the Pimt?n^ (p. 140); but
even from this point the great waterfall is seen, more than 14 M.
distant as the crow flies. From W. to P3. the principal summits
seen are the Balaitous, the peaks of Monne, Viscos, and Ardiden,
the Vignemale , the Gabietou , Taillon , Fausse Breche, Breche de
Roland, Casque. Tour, the Pic and the Cylindre du Marbore, Mont
Perdu, the peaks of Estaubt?, Munia. Bergons, Maucap^ra, Pim^ini",
Long, Neouvielle, .Vrbizon , Tourmalet , Midi de Bigorre , etc. —
.\scent from Bareges, see p. 14.3.
To THE Pic de Bergons, from Luz, the path from St. Sauveur
being very little shorter and impracticable for horses. This is a
favourite and interesting excursion, 2'/? hrs. on foot, 2 hrs. ou
horseback, there and back 4-4'/.> hrs. ; guide (unnecessary) and horse,
138 n. RoVf 19. CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE. Kxrursions^
6 fr. each. We leave Liiz by the Bareges road and ascend to the S^
via yi.ll(7iare (2f}'2o i't.) . by a well-beaten track which presents no
<lifticnlty. The ='Pic de Bergons (6790 ft.), an almost isolated moun-
tain, affords a very tine view not unlike that from the Pic de Nere
(see above).
To THE CiBQiE DE Gavaknie . One of the principal excursions-
among the Pyrenees which should not be missed, 12 M. by road to
Gavarnie, thence 1 hr. by bridle-path; guide unnecessary; carriage
20-30, horse 8 fr. By starting early the ascent of the Pimeii^
(p. 140) may be included in the day's excursion. — The roads-
from Luz and St. Sauveur unite a short distance to the S. of the'
latter at the Pooif Napoleon (p. 137). Thence we ascend the right
bank to the foot of the Bergons (see above) and enter Ihe Gurge de St.
Saureur, formerly fortified. — Near the (3 M.) Pont de Sia (3610 ft.)
are a waterfall and a mined bridge, beyond which the ravine ex-
pands into a little valley. — 4'/2 M. Pont dWrroucnt or Dcsdou-
loitcat (28i0 fi.). On the left is seen the Pimen^, concealing the
crest of the Cirque de Gavarnie, which, however, comes into view at
the end of the little basin which our road now crosses.
7'/2M. G6dre (3265 ft.; Hot. Palasset), a village at the junction
nf the Ileas and Campbieil valleys, on the left, with the Gavarnie
\ailey, on the right. Behind the hotel is an uninteresting 'grotto',
or rather cutting, whence the Gave de H^as issues (50c.). Excur-
sions from Gedre. see p. 140.
The road next traverses the Chaos, formed of huge rocks fallen
from a spur of the Coume'ly. The valley becomes arid and desolate.
I'arther on we begin distinctly to see the Cirque de Gavarnie.
12 M. Gavarnie (5085 ft.; *Hdtel des Voyageurs ; guides, see
below), a small village originally formed around a hospice of the
Templars.
The *"-^ Cirque de Gavarnie appears to be quite close to the village,
but it is an hour's walk to its entrance and '/2 hr. more to its
head (horse 3, donkey 2 fr.). The illusion arises from the vastness
(if its proportions for which there is no standaid of measurement.
The entrance to the Cirque is readily reached (*/«?(), but to gain
the foot of the highest waterfall is more difficult, and during the
afternoon a wide berth sliould be given to the cliffs from which
stones frequently fall. 1'his superb amphitheatre, the head of whose
area is .5380 ft. above the sea , is enclosed by limestone niotintains,
which rise in three stages to a height of 6900, 8500, and 9000 ft.
The hollow thus formed is 2V4 M. wide at the base of the moun-
tains, whose crest-line, from the Plr den Sarradets (8990 ft.) on the
W. to the Pir de I'Astazori (10,105 ft.) on the E., measures nearly
9 M. The summits between these peaks, beginning at the former,
are the Gahh'tou (9950 ft.); Taillon (10,320 ft.), to the left of
which is the Fausse Brerhe (9670 ft.) and the Bierhe de lltdand.
(9200ft.); the Casque '9860 ft.); 7-o?(c (9900ft.); 7i>7»^f (10,230ft.);
fromSt.Sauvfuv. BUK( HE DKUOJ.AiND. ll.UouleW. 139
and the Pic da Maihine (iO.QlO ft.). The slopes between the siie-
cessive stages are eovered with perpetual snow and with glaciers,
forming iH cascades, of which two never dry up. The principal
fall, the famous *Cascade de Gavarnie, 1385ft. in height, is the
highest in Europe after the Doegerfos in Norway, which is 100 ft.
liiglier. If there is plenty of water , it forms a single fall , but in
summer descends in two leaps, of 958 and 427 ft. respectively. The
light-effects in the Cirque are singularly beautiful both at sunrise
and sunset; and at about midday in summer the sun shines full
upon the fall. Those who do not ascend the Pimt'ne, (p. 140) should
ascenil for ' 2h'"' on the 8. W. of Gavarnie by the Port de Gavarnie route
for the sake of the comprehensive view of the Cirque enjoyed thence.
The Port de Gavarnie or de Bouchat-o (74S5ft.), abdut 2hrs. to the S.E.
of Gavarnie, is the principal pass over this part of the Pyrenees. About
ll'4hr. thence is the Spanish hamlet of Boncharo or Biijanielo (4410 ft.),
with barracks and an inn, situated on the Ara, which a little farther on
enters a beautiful wooded gorge.
On the \V. side of the Cirque is a break in the line of clitl's, known
as tlie Echelle des Sarradets, which otters the only method of ascending
Croni the bottom of the Cirque to its summits. Tlie ascents are difficult and
should be attempted only by e.xperienced mountaineers with good guides,
to be had at Gavarnie: ''Henri and *Ce'lestin Passet, Pierre Pujo, Pieire
Brioul, Haurine , and Poc. The first two are perhaps the best guides in
the Pyrenees.
To THE Breche de Eolakd akd the Col nu Taillon, 4 and 41/2 hrs.,
there and back 7i/.> hrs. from Gavarnie, guide (lOfr.) and axe neces-
sary. V\ e ascend by the Echelle des Sarradets (see above), and by the
(ll/4l'r.) cornice reach the (l/.i hr.) Sarradets Pastures^ and the (I/2 hi'.)
Sarradets Spring whence there is a line view. The route now liesover
terraces covered with snow during most of the year and we leave on
our right a col leading to the Taillon glacier. In 8/4 lir. we reach the
Glacier de la Breche which involves l/-i hr. of difficult climbing, and in
'/^ hr. more the Briche de Roland (OaXl-ft.) , a cleft 130-190 tt. wide and
more than 300ft. deep wliich the famous paladin is fabled to liave made
with his sword Durandal to open a passage for his return from Spain.
It is about 1000 yds. long and the traveller should follow it and descend
to the Col du Taillon (9lt0 ft.), about 1/2 lir. from the entrance, in order
to enjoy the magnificent view of the S. side of the Cirque and of Mont
Perdu, etc. A refuge-hut has been built to the W. of the entrance of the
Breche. — The Pic du Taillon (10,320 ft.) may be ascended in IV2 hr. from
the Breche, with rope and a.\e. Grand view.
To THE Pic nu Marbohk. A. Via the Breche he Polanii, 6 hrs.,
there and back KH/o hrs. from Gavarnie; guide (25 fr.) and axe neces-
sary. .As far as the lircche de Roland (31 /o hrs.) see above. Thence we
proceed to the S.K.. passing in front of the Tniir and the Casque dn Afar-
hnrr, which may also be ascended from this side, and gain in t hr. the
Cnl de la Cascade (9G40ft.) between the Epaule and the four du Marbore,
whence we enjoy a superb view into the abyss of the Cirque. Then we
follow the crest (20 min.j and the glacier on the S. slope v lience the
summit of the Pic du Marbore is reached in 1 hr. 10 mill. — B. Via the
Bkkche d'Ali.ahz, returning via the Breche de Poland, a line e.xpedition
requiring about the same time but more experience than the jn-eceding;
guide 30 fr. We ascend to thi' S.E. of Gavarnie via the (I hr.) Cahane
d'Fspugjiette to the (V4 lir.) Brfeche d'Allanz (82.5.5(1.), on the ^.V,. side
of the Cirque. Thence we reach the 1^/4 hr.) F.chelle de Tuqueronye , an
extremely steep ice-couloir, and the (3/4 lir.) Brirhe de Tuqiierouye (8775 fl. ;
new refuge-hut), whence a splendid view of the Mont Perdu suddenly
breaks upon us. The route now passes to tlie E. of the Ltc (llacf du
140 //. Uimte lU. MONT-PEliDU.
ifont-Perdu, via the irevassed Glacier du Cylindre, and then, beyond a cre-
vasse, leads by a cornice and over the (21/4 hrs.) Col du Cylindre, between
the Cyiindre and the summit, which lies I/4 hi-, farther to the N.E. — The
Pic du Harbor^ (10,670 ft.), the sununit of which forms a huge platform,
is perhaps the best view-point in the Pyrenees, after the Cylindre du
Afarbore (10,915 ft.), the a,scent of which is dangerous. We complete the
circuit by returning via the Breche de lioland.
To 3I0NT -Perdu. A. Via thi; BKtcuE he 1!ol.\ni> and the M.M!boi;i';
Terraces, the shortest route. 61 '0 hrs., there and back lll/o hrs. from Ga-
varnie (the night being ]>assed at the Breche de Roland); guide (30fr.(,
rope, and a.\e necessary. As far as the Col de la Cascade (41/2 hrs.) see
above. Turning to the E., we gain by terraces and snow-fields the foot of
the Pic du Marbore Glacier, then the S. glacier of the Cylindre which we
cross to the Cheminee du Cylindre (8/4 hr. ; refnge). Then leaving, on the
left, this cheminee, which is difficult to scale, we gain w'ithout difliculty a
gap by which we descend to the S.E. to the Etang du Mont-Perdu (10 miu. :
9925 ft.) and thenee in 1 hr. attain the summit of the Mont- Perdu. —
B. Via the Breche dAllakz and Bkbche de Tuquekouye, same time but
more diflicult. To the (31/+ hrs.) Breche de Tuquerouije, see p. 139. We
continue to cro.ss the glacier (1 hr.). liut trend to the S., and then cross
a crevasse and scale a rocky wall (1/4 hr.). Thence the (8/4 hr.) Col du Mont-
Perdu (10,185 ft.) is reached without difliculty, and the summit is gained
either via the Etang (see aljove) or vi;i a narrow crest between deep preci-
pices. Mont-Perdu ( 10.095 ft.) , the highest peak in the Pyrenees after
the Pic de Nethou (11, 170 ft.), Maladetta (11,005 ft.) and Pie Posets (11,045ft.),
is, like them , on Spanish territory. It forms part of the limestone mass
of the Cirque de Gavarnie. but it lies out of the main chain of the Py-
renees and the view from the Pic du Marbore is finer. Together with
the Cylindre (10,915 ft.) on tlie N. W. and the Pic de Ramond (10,760 11.)
on the S. E. it forms a group known by the Spaniards as the Three
Sisters. On the S., as is almost universally the case on that slope of the
Pyrenees, the mountains are barren and desolate.
To the Vignemale (10.820 ft.), via Ossoue and Montferrat, the sliorte.st
route (from C'auterets, see p. 132). a line e.xcursion, but laborious, 6 hr.s.,
there and back 10 hrs. from Gavarnie; guide (30 fr.) , rope, and axe ne-
cessary. We ascend the Ossoue Valley by the side of the Gave without
difficulty as far as the (3 hrs.) Pas des Oulettes-d' Ossoue which is only
feasible on the right bank. Then we leave on the right (I/2 hr.) the
road to the Hourquette d'Ossoue (p. 132) and ascend to the S. W. in the
direction of the Montferrat or Cerbillona (I/2 hr.) where it is necessary In
|iroceed with care, especially on the glacier (eomp. p. 132).
To THE PiMENE. ail ea.sy and interesting ascent, 2'/2 his., tlicre
and back 4 his. from Gavarnie; guide 10 fr. From Gedre the ascent
takes 4'/.2 hrs.. there and back T'/jlirs- From Gavarnie we ascend
to the E.. through woods, to 1^/4 hr.) a terrace and (V2 lir.) a spring.
Thence we bear to the right up very steep slopes to (2 hrs. front
Gavarnie) the Col de Phnnu' (S15b ft.) from which the view is al-
ready fine. Here we turn to tlie N. and . by a rather narrow arete,
gain the summit of the *Pim6n6 or Pir de Phne'ne (9195 ft.), which
affords a grand panorama . iiuluding the best view of the Cirqtie
of Gavarnie, though the chief \yaterfall is not seen. The Vigiu-
male and the Pic Long appear to advantage.
To THE CiRQiE DE Troumouse, 6-8 lirs. there and back from St. Sau-
veur, 41/0-5 hrs. from Gedre: guide unnecessary: horse from St. Sauveur
8 fr. — Gedre see p. 138. We take a stony path near the Hotel Palasset
to the Valley of Heas^ which we ascend along the left bank of the torrent,
where the road is better than on the right' bank. Farther on, a short
cut leads across meadows. On the other side is the Valley of CampbieU,
by which the difficult and dangerous ascent of the Pic Long (10,480 ft.).
BAREGES. J J. h'oHte W. I4l
(he highest poiut in the granitic mass of Keoiivielle (p. 145). is occasinii-
;i!ly. though rarely, made. Then we cross at the foot of the Coume'ly,
a Chaos similar to that on the Gavarnie road. In 1 hr. 10 min. from
Uedre we cross to the right bank by the Pont de la Gardette. On the
left is the ifontagne de Cainplony. Then on the other side is the mouth
of tlie Val <rFftaube. which also ends in a "cirque". The valley of Heas
is here still choked with blocks of rock, the result of a landslip in 1650,
known as the Peyrade (4430 ft.), which dammed up the stream and formed
a lake, in its turn destroyed by a flood in 1788. On the left is a huge
block, known as the Caillou de I'Arraye, ou which the Virgin Mary is
said once to have appeared; pilgrims to the chapel of Heas are in the
habit of carrying oil' fragments of the rock. — l:'/4 hr. Heas (4855 ft.), an
insignificant hamlet. — 20 min. Ckapelle de Heas (Cf075 ft.), dedicated to the
Virgin and a place of pilgrimage for this district, particularly on Aug. 15
and Sept. 8. Adjoining it are some houses and the small Hotel de la Afunia
(guide, Chapelle). — We ne.xt pass a pyramidal rock called the Rocher
or Tour de Lieusaoube and enter a gorge beyond which, to the S.. appear
the peaks of Troumouse and the Munia. In i/o hr. more the valley forks.
We take the path to the left and follow the right bank of a torrent which
<'om»s several waterfalls, notably the Cascade de Mataras, and in 1 hr.
reach the Cirque de Troumouse (5905 ft.), less grand than that of Gavarnie
but nevertheless of noble dimensions, 21/2^- ''i diameter and from 2500
to 4000 ft. in height. At its head rises the Pic de Troumouse (10.125 ft.) with
its glaciers and its two pinnacles, called the Sisters of Troumouse. — On
the right, the Pic de la Munia (10,335 ft.), a superb point of view but in-
volving a difficult climb (2 hrs.). — On the other hand , the interesting
ascents of the Pic de la Gela (9345 ft.) and the Pic des Aiguilloxs (9710 ft.) to
•he S.E. and N.E. of Heas. are easily niade (with guide) in 4i.ihrs. each.
20. Bareges and its Environs.
Colli]!. Map, p. 136.
I. From Loardes to Bardges.
IIa ILWAY to ( {i^l.)Pierrffitte-Nestalas as fur t'auterets and Luz-St. Sauveur
(p. 125): thence a carriage - road (12 M.) and diligence during the season
at 9 a. m.. 3, and 5 p. m. (fare 4i/o fr.) , returning at 6 and 11 a. m. and
2 p.m. The diligence takes Si/s hrs. . besides i/^i hr. halt at Luz. The
'voiture du courrier' is quicTcer. taking only 3 hrs., with no stoppage.
Carriages also in the season, 25 fr. for 4 travellers and 260 lbs. of luggage.
To Luz, see p. 135. The road then makes a considerable ascent
to the N.E. into the Valleii of the. Baatan or Gave de Bareges, so that
the diligence takes 2 hrs. from I.iiz to Bareges. At first we have,
left and right, the wooded slopes of the Pic de Ner^ and Pic de
Bergons, but the country soon changes its character and the moun-
tains become bare and furrowed. The. journey is interesting and the
road itself excellent, especially since the last improvements were
made, involving the construction of two bridges over the torrent in
the Pontis ra^ine (p. 14,3). about l'/4M. from Bareges.
II. Bardges.
Hotels. Ue i.'EiRoPK; DE France; IIiihei.ieu, well spoken of (pens.
iVoni 9fr.): des Pyrekeks, etc. Houses and lodgings to let.
Cafds. De Paris, Riclielieu, de V Union, in ihe Grand' Rue.
Bath Establishment. Fee for drinking the waters between June 15
;nid Sept. 5, 10 fr. for 30 days; rest of the^season. 2 fr. — Baths 1/.2-2V2 'j.
according to the kind, the hour, and time of year, usual tarift' 1 fr. 70
and 2 fr. 50 c. ; baths in public basin SOc.-li/.^ fr.
U> II. lioute 20. BAllEGES. Bath Establishment.
Casino, at the entrauce to the village; subscription per month 35 I'r.,
fortnight 22 fr., week 12 I'r. ; reserved seat iu theatre 3 ir.
Guides. Bast. Taintuiier , Ant. Vazaux ., Pierre and Henri Afenvielle,
Marc and Jean M. Houta ., Ant. Vergez , Bern. Anclade ., I'icrre Cazau.v, Ant.
Peyret, and Hipp. Charlet. All these are of the 1st class, and shew the
tarift' (see the separate excursions) when requested.
Bariges (4040 ft.), a village coiisistirig almost entirely of one
long street running up the left bank of the Bastan, has long been
noted for its warm sulphur springs. Owing to its altitude the place
is scarcely habitable in winter, when the cold is extreme. Its cli-
mate is very variable and the upward limit of trees is only 2600 ft.
above the village. Nevertheless it attracts many visitors in summer
and is often crowded. The re-planting of the hill-sides with trees
and grass has already considerably altered the appearance of the
valley, which is very pleasant in summer.
The Waters of Bareges are impregnated with sulphate of soda
and are the most powerful in the Pyrenees. They differ but little
and are all highly charged with a peculiar nitrogenous substance,
called "baregine' or 'glairine', which renders them oily to the touch.
Their temperature varies between 91,4° Fahr. (Chapelle) and 111,2°
(Tambour), roughly corresponding with the amount of sulphate of
soda they contain. They are used for baths and drinking, in the
treatment of surgical cases, the healing of wounds, ulcers, etc., and
for scrofula, gout, rheumatism, skin diseases, syphilis, chlorosis,
anaemia, and certain nervous affections. There are thirteen springs
whose united yield is about 60.000 gallons per diem.
The Bath Establishment . rebuilt between 1861 and 1864, is a
handsome building of marble at the top of the village, on the right
of the street descending the latter. All the springs are here brought
together and the bathing arrangements are very complete. — To
the left of the baths is a Military Hospital, founded in 1760, but
recently rebuilt. - On the right, behind and at some distance above
it, is the Hospice Ste. Enge'))ic. set apart for ecclesiastics aiul nuns
from June 15 to Sept. 1, while the poor are admitted before and
after those dates.
The Promenade Uorizontale . the principal promenade of Ba-
reges, begins at the Hospice and runs westward below the Ayre (see
below) and above the village as far as the Ilioulet ravine (see be-
low). There are also walks higher up in the Voret de Bareges or
Bois d'Artiffon. which protects the baths from avalanches and the
ravages of the Moure torrent. Among these is the Alle'e Verte (about
5900 ft.), a clearing in the forest, 3 M. distant, between the valleys
of the Lienz and the Uioulet. The Heritage a Colas, beyond the
Rioulet, I'/aM. from the Promenade Horizontale, is another plea-
sant promenade.
Avalanches and tlie rush of waters from the neighbouring mountains
are the two special dangers against which the authorities of Bareges
have to contend. .Xvalanches of the most destructive character gather on
the flanks of the mountain of Laba.<-l!lancs on the N. and rush down by
Excuisions. BAUKGE8. JI. lioutc 'JU. 143
four ravines iuto the valley and over the stream to the other slope. Masses
of snow etc. of more than 100,000 cuhic yds. have thus been hurled upon
the village. On spots liable to be overwhelmed in this manner only
wooden buildings are erected and these are annually removed before the
winter. The most dangerous spot was the Rarin du Midaou or de Capi-,
behind the Military Hospital. To some extent the e.xertions of the Forest
Department of the government have succeeded in arresting or lessening
the avalanches , by planting tlie hill-sides with trees and by making em-
bankments or small terraces. The works are interesting and from them
there is a good view (2 lirs. there and back). — The RiouUt Ravine, <n\
the left bank below Bareges, is traversed by a torrent which in times
of thaw and after heavy rain used to carry away everything before it that
was not solid rock, and even destroyed the main road; hut it too has to
a great extent been rendered harmless by planting trees and by the con-
struction of embankments and channels which distribute its waters higher
up. The Pontis Ravini:, lower down the valley, now calls for works of a
like nature. The alteration in the course of the road mentioned at
p. 141 was necessitated by the risks to which its previous course was
exposed.
III. Excursious.
To the Pic de N6re ifiom Luz, see p. 137). 3' 4 Ins.. there and
t)ack oil foot 6', 2 his.: guide, 10 fr.. horse 6 fr. (adders abound).
We cross the Bastau about 550 yds. below Bareges, near the Source
deBarzun(p. 186». and proceed to the W. to (•'4 hr). St. Jusfhi. oint-
the site of a hermitage, commanding a flue view. Thence we go N.
to the Cirque de Sers (V2 hr.) and again turn W. a little farther on,
descending into a little valley and ascending the exceedingly steep
slopes on the other side to the plateau on which are the Arheovsse,
Huts (about 1 hr.). There we join the route from Luz (p. 137).
To THE Pic uu Midi de Bigoree. an easy excursion which
should not be missed, 3'/2hrs. , there and back 5'/2"6hrs. : guide
(unnecessary! 10, horse 7 fr. The night may be spent in the small
hotel near the top of the mountain, in order to see the sunrise, but it
is advisable to secure a bed beforehand as otherwise the visitor
may have to sleep in the public room. In any case an early start
should be made so as to reach the summit before noon, as mists
often hide the lower ground during the afternoon. We follow the
road above Bareges on the left bank of theBastan, crossing the
stream by the ('/-j hr.) I'ont de. Tournaboiif (4755 ft.), and then
ascend to the K. along the flank of the Labas-Blancs, passing in
1/2 hr. the point where the path to the Lac Bleu (see below) diverges
to the left. Shortly afterwards our route turns to the N. and reaches
the Cabanes de Toue (6370 ft.). where a small obelisk commemo-
rates the Due de Nemours, who promoted the opening of the road
ill 1839. then the only one and still the shortest by which to reach
(to the right,! Bagneres over the Col du Tourmalet C, hr. : p. 145).
A well-beaten path leads from the Cabanes to the summit; a short-
cut for walkers ascends directly to the N. The greyish dome of the
Pic du Midi and its observatory are now in sight. We cross a brook
C/'j hr.) and mount to a considerable height to the E. of the Lac
1 44 11. Route -20. PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE. Excursions
it'Onret (7340 ft.) from which it flows. This lake, about 550 yds,
long by 330 yds. wide, lies in a basin shut in by abrupt heights. —
111 2'/2hrs. from Bareges we reach the Houique des Cinq- Cows or
(irSencouis (7780 ft.), a col where the route from Bagneres is joined,
iuid on which is the Hufellerie du Pic dn Midi.
The hotel has several good bedrooms with 2 beds in each and a
jiubliu bedroom, fitted with camp -bedsteads. TaritV: admissiou merely
.oO c. ; bed in the public room, 1 fr. . in one of the bedrooms, 3 fr. for
the lirst night, 2 fr. for the second; dej. 21/2, D. 3i/o fr. without wine
which costs 80 c., 1 fr., and 2 fr. per litre; cafe noir, 60 e. ; cafe au lait
11/2 fr.; petit verre. 30 c. Charge.*; of 25 c, table money and 25 c. for put-
ting up the horse are also made, and visitor.s are e.xpeeted to fee the
attendants.
In 1 lir. more we reach the summit of the mountain by many
zigzags practicable for horses, passing the Cot du Laquet (8530 ft.)
from whii-h there is a tine view of the plain.
The **Pic du Midi de Bigorre or de Bngnhes (9440 ft.), although
in altitude it iinly ranlvs 40th among Pyrenean summits, is one of
the first in respect of the view it affords of nearly the whole chain.
'I'his it owes to its isolated position . like that of a watch-tower on
the side of the plain over which the view extends almost without
limit, and at times as far westward as the Atlantic Ocean. The
contrast between the plain and the countless snow-capped summits
on the S. is its great charm ; the latter looking like the billows of
a stormy sea suddenly petrified. — The summit ends on the \V. in
a small platform which has precipices on its N. side not to be care-
lessly approached. On the E. side an Observatory was built be-
tween 1878 and 1881 and is connected by telegraph with Bagneres
de Bigorre (p. 146). The house is in a little cleft facing the S. ; the
public are not admitted. — By reason of its isolation, the Pic du
Midi is not snow-clad in summer though snow often falls on the
summit.
To the Lac Bleu (from Bagneres, seep. 149), 31/2 hrs., there and back
about 6 hrs. ; guide 10. horse 7 fr. For the first hour our route follows
the Pic du Midi road (see above). We then turn to the left and ascend
in 1/4 hr. to the Cabanes d'Aoiibe (5965 ft.) from which we gain in I1/2 hr.
tlie. Col (VAoitbe (about 8200 ft.), which commands a fine view, particularly
of the Neouvielle. A descent of 3/4 hr., to the W.. takes us past a little
lake, also blue, to the iae Bleu (p. 149).
To THE Pic dWvRE, 31/0 hrs., there and back 6 hrs.; guide and horse
6 fr. each. Visitors generally only go to within 1/2 hr. of the top which
i.s difficult to scale; in that case a guide is not necessary. On horseback
we take the bridle-path through tlie forest of Bareges (p. 142), traverse
the AlUe Verte (p. l42) , and ascend by a circuitous path to the pastures
above the Rioulet ravine. The same point may be reached direct by
a steep footpath along the torrent. Thence we proceed W. to a fine
View-point, 21/2 hrs. from Bareges; then, retracing our steps for a short
di.stanee, we ascend in V4 hr. by zigzags, the flower-decked slopps to the
Col iVAyrr, whence the view extends to the Pic de Ne're and the Neou-
vielle. .Another Vi; hr. brings us from the Col to the summit of the
Pic d'Ayr6 (7935 ft.), but the climb is laborious and should not be under-
taken without a guide.
To THE Pic de NiiouviELLE (Lac d'Orredon), an easy and interesting
excursion, 6 hrs. , there and back 10 hrs.; guide 20 fr. ; horse as far a.s
from i;<in,i,.s. P1(J DE NEOUVIELLE. //. h'utilc -JO. 14.')
tlie Lac d'Kscoubous (2 hrs.) 5 tV. We follow the road beyond the Baths,
leave on the left the bridge crossed by the Pic du Midi route, and beyond
a bridge over the Escoiiboiis or Escougons torrent (40 min.) turn to the
riyht up the valley of that nauie. We ascend through a chaos of granite
blocks, pass the (8/4 hr.) mouth of the Vallon d\Uijue - Cluse on the left,
recross tlie torrent, and reacli the (35 min.) Lac d" Escoubous (6395 ft.).
This lake is little larger than the Lac d'Oncet on tlie Pic du Midi, but
its environment ot shattered mountains makes it an interesting object for
an e.xcursion , particularly if we proceed on foot l/o hr. farther up to
the Lac lilanc. Tlie latter is on our way to the Pic de Ne'ouvielle, on
wliich we leave (he Lac </« Tracens on the left, reaching (>V4 hr.) the Lac
Noil- (7200 ft.) and following its left liank. Thence an ascent of 25 min.
brings us to tht^ Col t/'.l)t;-e'(8200 ft.) , where we obtain a very line view
of the Xeouvielle, Pic Long, the Gavarnie mountains, etc. — If we de-
scend hence to the left, towards the lakes i}( Aiihert and Aiimar, which
are in sight from the col, we may reach in 1 hr. 10 min. the Lac d'Ur-
ridoH (G135 ft.). This lake (130 acres in area) is well worth a visit; it
is dammed up in order to supply water to the Aure valley (p. 150) in
summer, by means of the Keste de Couplan. liefreshments are usually
to be obtained from the reservoir-keeper. — Continuing our route to the
Ne'ouvielle we descend from the col on the right and enter another chaos
of rocks, and cross higher up from S. to W. a snow slope, free from
risk, but very steep towards the end. In 21/4 brs. from the col, we reach
the summit of the *Pic de Nfiouvielle or Neouvieille , also called Pic
dWubert (10,145 ft.), which commands a magnilicent panorama of the
Pyrenees from the Balaitous to the Monts Maudits, with a fine view of
the Gavarnie mountains, Mont-Perdu, Pic Posets , and, much nearer, of
tlie peaks Long, Campbieil, Me'chant , etc., and a remarkable survey
of the numerous lakes of this district, of which 27 may be counted. —
We may return via the Brcche de Chausenque , the lakes and valley of
^tai'/'e , parallel , on the W. , to that of Escoiihous, but this diflicult
route takes an extra hour.
To BaGNEUES- DE-BlGOKl!E VI.\ THE Coi. DU ToUItMALET, 25 M. , by
carriage road in 4 hrs., on foot 7 hrs. •, carriage 40-60 fr., horse 12 fr. per
day, to the col 5 fr. The road follows the left bank of the Bastan ;
pedestrians and riders may shorten the distance by taking the Pic du
Midi road (p. 144) bv which they reach the col in 2 hrs. — 8 M. Col du
Tourmalet (6960 ft.) ," between the Pic du Tourmalet (8095 ft.), on the left,
ami tlie Pic d" Espade (8075 ft.), on the right, one of the highest carriage-
passes in Europe. The view is limited except on the W. The road
descends by wide zigzags towards the valley of the Adour; the old road
is a short-cut for pedestrians and horsemen. — At (121/2 *!•) Tramesat/yiitf,
we obtain a very fine view of the Pic du Midi. Then traversing wooded
hills we reach the bank of the Adour, which forms the Cascades d\irtigues
iir de Gripj), one of which is very pretty. Thei-e is a good inn (Hot. des
Fffri'ii^es; guide to the Pic du "Midi 10 fr.). — 15 M. (?/(>;» (3495 ft.;
Hot. des Voyageurs). — At (I71/3 M.) Ste. Marie we enter the ('ampan
valley (p. 149). — Baynires-de-Biyorre, see p. 146.
21. Bagneres-de-Bigorre and its Environs.
i'oiiip. .l/<//i, ;>. 1:1'!.
I. From Tarbes to Bagn6res-de-Bigorre.
131/2 M. Kailwav in 3/4-IV4 br- (fares 2 fr. 65, 2 fr., 1 fr. 45 c).
Tarbes see p. 112. — We follow the Totilouse line to Marcadieu
and turn to the iip;ht into the fine and fertile valley of the Adour.
The best view is on the right. — 4'/2 M. Sallca-Adoiir-^ 7 M. Ber-
nar-Dehat; 8 M. VieAle- Adour ; 10 M. MonUiaiUard; 11 M. Ordi-
%an. — il^li M. Pouaac, with a fortified churrh containing a re-
Baedeker. .Sdullicni France. 10
146 II. Route 21. BAGNERES-DE-BIGORRE. Ilvfels.
redos of the 18th cent, and other works of art. On the hill are the
remains of an earthwork known as Ccesar's Camp. — To the right
as we reach Bagneres is the Mont du Bedat, crowned by a statue of
the Virgin (p. 148).
II. Bagn6res-de-Bigorre.
Hotels, Grand-Hotei, de Paris, Beausejoub, de Londres et d'Angle-
TBRRE, Nos. 18, 23, and 5 Promenade des Coustous ; de France, Boul. du
College-, Frascati, Rue Frascati , both near the Baths-, *du Bon Pas-
teur, Kue de THoi-loge , near the tower, 8 t'r. per day; Dubau, Rue de
Tarbes, near the promenades. — "Numerous Villas and Apa7tmenis , those
to let being commonly indicated by tlie window - shutters being closed;
room 2-3 fr. per day.
Bath Etablishments. Thermea and Niothermes; 'buvette' , 10 days,
4 fr., season 8 fr. ; private baths 1-3 fr. ; baths in the great basin of the
Neothermes, i-U^fr. , 25 fr. per month, 40 fr. for the season. Thermes
de Salui, 'buvette' 5 fr. in July and August, 3 fr. during the rest of the
season; baths i/->-2l/o fr. — A list oi Physicians is displayed in the bath-
establishments.
Cabs, for 2 pers. per drive 75 c. during the day, II/2 fr. at night; per
hour 2 and 21/2 fr.i 3 fr. in the country; for 4 pers., per drive 1 and 2 fr.,
per hour 3 and 31/2 fr. — CaUches and Landaus, 30 fr. per day. — Horses,
ride of 4 hrs., 5 fr., per day 10 fr.
Guides, Arnaune, J. M. Coiirtade, Idrac, Nogu'es, Aug. Vedere, Aryi.
Verdoux. For tarill', see the separate excursions.
Casino, per season, 1 pers.OOfr., husband and wife 140fr., each additio-
nal member of a family 30 fr. Per month 50, 75, and 80 fr. ; for 3 weeks 40,
60, and 20 fr. : for 10 days , 20, 30, and 10 fr. Admission on special oc-
casions, 3 fr.
Protestant Churches. Anglican, Rue des Pyrenees; French, Avenue du
SaUit.
Post and Telegraph Office, Place Ramond, not far from the Thermes,
Bagneres-de- Bigorre or simply Bagneres (1805 ft.) is a town of
9498 inhab., in a pretty situation on the left bank of the Adour, at
the point where this river issues from the fine Campan valley into
the plain of Tarbes. It is one of the leading thermal stations of
the Pyrenees and enjoys, what many others do not, a mild climate.
It is frequented annually by about 20,000 batliers and tourists.
The Romans were acquainted with its waters, whicli they called
Aqum Bigerrionum Balnearia?, and they erected here various bath-
houses and a temple of Diana.
The railway-station lies to the N. of the town. The avenue be-
ginning opposite the exit leads towards the centre of the town, via
the handsome Square des Vigneaxx , a quiet and well-shaded pro-
menade. A little farther on is the curious Church of Sf. Vincent,
dating from the 14- 15th cent. ; the facade is formed by a great
wall, square at the top, with fourteen Gothic arcades, while on the
right it is flanked by a Gothic turret. On the 8. side is a tasteful por-
tico of 1557. The interior presents a broad and short nave, flanked
by chapels, decorated with modern marble altars. There is a fine
statue of the Virgin, by Cl^singer, above the high altar. 8ome of
the windows have good stained glass.
The Promenade des Coustous, near this church, is shaded by
Mineral N/u/;(.</s. BAGNEIIES-DE-BIGOIIRE. //. lioulc '21. 147
trees, as far even as the centre of the town. This street and the
Place Lafayette and Place des Pyrenees, at either end of it, contain
the principal hotels and cafiSs and form the iisnal evening rendez-
vous of the visitors. The part of the town lying to the E. or left of
this promenade is uninteresting. It is bounded by the Adour,
which is spanned by a bridge at the end of the street skirting
the side of St. Vincent's church.
The Bath Establishments and the Casino are situated to the W.,
the principal street, the Boulevard du College and Boulevard du
Casino, beginning at the place Lafayette. On this side also, in the
old town, is the Tour des Jacobins or Tour de I'Horloge^ the re-
mains of a church of the 15th century. This curious edifice is
octagonal in shape and is crowned by a receding story, with a
gallery and platform.
The MiNEEAL Waters of Bagneres are now supplied by 30
Spriniis. The chief are characterized by the presence of sulphate of
lime; but they vary much in their composition and in the uses to
which they are applied. The springs are usually divided into three
groups: 23 are warm springs containing sulphate of lime, and also
sulphate of magnesia and soda; 3 are warm sulphur-springs; and
4 are cold chalybeate springs.
For rheumatism the waters of the springs known as Le Dauphin.
La Reine, Le Foulon, Le Platane , and Le Petit -Bareges are usually
prescrihed ; lor nervous aft'ections , those of Le Salut , Le Platane , Le
Grand Pre, and St. Roch; for feminine ailments and diseases of the skin,
those of Le Foulon andSalies; for diseases of the digestive organs, those
of Labassere, La Reine, and La Uampe ; for diseases of the urinary canals
those ofSalies and Le Salut; for diseases of the respiratory organs, those
of Labassere and Salies ; and for ansemia, general diseases, and surgical
cases, those of the two last and of La Rampe.
Bagneres has still 10 bath -establishments , and formerly had
more. The chief are the Thermes and the Ne'uthermes , which, as
well as those of Theas. belong to the town. The others are private
establishments.
The Thermes are situated in a square of the same name, to the
left as we follow the boulevards, and at the foot of the bare moun-
tains whence issue the streams that supply the baths. The build-
ing is a plain structure, dating from 1824, but the bathing ar-
rangements and equipments are excellent. The baths of this estab-
lishment are fed by the springs of J^e Ddupliin (120° Fahr.) , La
Reine (Ho"), St. Jiorh (100°), Le F<Htlim (1)5°), Le Platane (91°),
Marie- There fie or Les Yeii.r. (91°), Le Uoc-de-Lanne^ (118°), and
St. Barthe'lemy (118°). — Adjoining the Thermes, on the N., is the
linrette de Salies, so called from the Salies spring (124°), one of
tlie chief iti Bagneres, which is conducted hither, along with the
waters of Labassere (64°) and La Rampe (100°). The Buvettes de
la Keine and du Dauphin are also here. — A tasteful Fountain
has been erected in front of the establishment, in memory of A.
Soubies, to whom Bagneres owes much of its prosperity. — Not
10*
148 //. Huulr:>l. ]'.AtiM:UE^-i)E-BIG01!Kl-:.
far from the Buvette de Salies are the Baths uf Cazaux and of
Theas, each supplied hy a special spring (114-124°).
The Neothekmes lie somewhat farther to the N., occupying the
ground-floor of the right wing of the casino. They contain large
basins , supplied with running water from the Source de la Tuur
(113° reduced to 86°), which yields nearly 220,000 gallons per
day. The Casino, a handsome edifice, built in 1881-84, contains
ball-rooms, recreation-rooms, a restaurant, cafe, etc. Its park is
open daily to the public until G p. m. ; concerts frequently take place
in the afternoon.
Among the other batli -establishments are those of Bellevne
(114°), behind the Thermes (higher up are two chalybeate springs);
3/oca (100°), Rue du Theatre, opposite the Thermes; the Petit-
Frieur (96°), under the hospice, a little farther to the S.; Ver-
sailles (96°) and the I'etit-Barhjes (91°), farther off, to the right
and left; and the Grand-Pre (96° and 89°) to the S.E., in the
AUee de Salut, a flue avenue which leads also to the Thermes de
Salut, about V2 M- from the town (omn. 40 c. there, 20 c. back).
At the Thermes are a small Muse'e and a Library, open during
the season from 9 a. m. to 12, and from 1 to 5 or 6 p. m.
Bagneres has many pleasant walks. The Alices de Maintenon,
at the S. end of the town, are reached via the Rue des Pyr^n^es.
The Alice du Monfcdiouef. on the mountain -slope behind the
Thermes. ascends to the chalybeate springs: and by the Alices
Dramafiqiies . to the S. of the Montaliouet, near the Thermes de
.Salut, we may proceed, to the right, to the Monf du Bt'dat (2890 ft. ;
3/4 hr.), on which there is a bronze statue of the Virgin. The hill
contains some large caves.
In the valley of Campau (p. 149) . and elsewhere in the neigh-
bourhood of Bagneres are Marble Quarries, which yield many
varieties of valuable marble; and the town contains several impor-
tant Marble Works, manufacturing chimney-pieces, table-tops. etc.
Bagneres is also noted for its woollen knitted goods.
III. Excursions.
To THE MoKNK, 21/;; lirs., 2 lu's. OH liorschack; guide (unncee ssary) 6,
liorsc 8-10 fr. Wc a-scend first l>y tlic Alices Dramatiques , then to the
right along the hills, skirting the mfiuntain from E. to W. The Monn6
or Monnti de Bagneres (4125 ft.) is tlie Iiighest summit in the iniiuediati'.
vicinity of Bagneres. It affords a wide view of the Tarbes plain on the
X., while to the S. the eye ranges from the Vignemale to tin' Maladetta,
the Montaigu opijosile Uagnercs licing prominent; to the left i.s the Pie
du Midi and farther off in that direction the I'ic d'Arbi/.on. Tiie de-
scent may be made viii lieaudt-an (.see below).
To TiiK I'lc i)i: jroKTAiGii, ."ji/.j-G hrs., there and back 9-10 hrs., a fa-
tiguing expedition; guide 12 fr. We follow the Monne road for I'/t" '"■■,
tlien cro.s.s on tlie right the J'laine iV Esquinit , turn to thi; left, skirting
the Couret (4285 ft), climb the steep path of the liclieltes de Pilate, skirt La
Peyre (5710 ft.), on the left, follow a rocky crest, and finally skirting the
mountain to the right gain the fop. Tlie Pic de Montaigu (TGSOft.) af-
fords a very wide view to the N., over the nciglibouring valleys and the
LAC BLEU. II. noiile 21. 1 iO
plain , but tlip view to the S. is limited owing to the vicinity of the Pie
■III Midi and its \V. neighbours. The return may be made by the Les-
ponne valley (see below).
To HIE Lespokne Vallky and the Lac Blku, 3'/^ hrs. to the Ca-
banes do C'hiroiilet , 5 hrs. to the lake. The visit ti) the latter is best
wade when the daui of the lake is open. Riding is practicable as far as
the lake and driving as far as the Cabanes. Guide (unnecessary) 8,
horse 10, carriage 2.5-30 fr. We ascend to the S. by the Adour valley,
leaving O'ercle and AMt' (.■see below) to the left, and Aft^dmis , with its oid
convent, to the right. At (Ihr.) /?ea«tif'a« Larrey, the celebrated surgeon
( 1766-1^42), was born. Xear the pretty house called Prieure de St. J'aiil we
iinit the I'anipan valley (see below) and turn to the right up the Lesponne
Valley, which is shut in right and left respectively by spurs uf the Non-
taigu and Pic du Midi. Cultivation soon ceases. In 1 hr. we reach
Lenponne ; 3/^ lir. farther is the Hospital., and, on the right, a ravine with
the pretty ^yaier/all of Aspi. At the head of the ravine appears the
Montaigu , which may be ascended hence. About 1/2 hr. farther on, to
the left, is another ravine with a view of the Pic du Midi, which also
in accessible on this side, and 20 min. more bring us to the Cabane.i de
C/iiroiilet where refreshments may be obtained. Beyond them we leave,
on the right, the road leading to Argeles (p. 125), via the Hourquetfe de
Barane' and the Izaby valley, and ascend on the left by a considerable
slope, to (Ihr. 10 min.) the dam and (i/4hr. more) to the Lao Bleu
(6455 ft.), shut in by a vast environment of rocks, an<l fully justifying its
name by its line blue colour. The lake is about 125 acres in area and
360 ft. deep, but a tunnel has recently been made on the N., 200 yds. long
fclosed), for the p\irpose of augmenting tlie Adour in dry seasons. This
reduces the level of the water about 65 feet.
To the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 1 or 11/^ day, see p. 143. — Tlie
ascent on this side is best made l)y starting from (81/4 hrs.) Gripp (p. 145),
where guides and horses are more conveniently obtained. Thence the
ascent requires 41/o hrs., via the Vallon dWrizes and the Gorge de Sencoui:'',
beyond which we join the road from Bareges, at the Lacd'Oncet (p. 144).
The route via the Tourmalet (p. 145) is longer, but a great part of it,
as far as the Cabanes de Tone (p. 143), 1/2 hr. from the col, and ll/o hr.
from the top, may be made by carriage.
To Bareges via the Tourmalet, see p. 145.
To THE Pese de Lheuis, 3 hrs., guide 6 fr. , 2 \'v. e.xtra if the return
is made by Ordincede; horse to the inn, 10 fr. : an excursion of special
interest for botanists. We follow the Adour valley to the S. , cross the
(1 /.jM.) Pont de Gerde, and proceed to (II/4 M.) Asie. Thence we ascend
to the left for about 1 hr. in the ravine of the Lhe'ris brook, wlience
we climb the mountain to the right, via a wood, some pastures, and the
Col du Tillet (4216 ft. : fine view) to the (1 hr.) Aiiberge de Toiirnejort, whose
name reminds us of the great botanist's (1656-170S) explorations in this
neighbourhood. On the right towers the Casque, a rocky wall which aft'ords
a remarkable echo. From there we scramble direct to the peak by the
Pas du Chat, or, longer but easier, climb to the left by the Priits d\irris
or des Corneilles. The Pfene de Lh^ris (5225 ft.) commands only a limited
view in the direction of tlie mountains but a very line one over the
plain , similar to that from the Pic du Blidi but more detailed owing to
the lower elevation. — The descent is often made by the Col de LhMs
(4525 ft.) and the Cabanes d'Ordincede (4415 ft.) on the S. , whence there
is a splendid view of the C'ampan Valley (see below), by which we re-
turn to Bagneres.
To Baokeres de Luchon via the Col d'Aspin (Campan Valley, Gripp
Waterfalls, Arreau), 43 BI. , open carriage, 100 fr. , sometimes return-
carriages may be had for less. This fine excursion should be made at
least as far as the Col d'Aspin. Beyond (7 M.) Arreau, a public con-
veyance plies to I.annemezan (see below and p. 114). — To Beaudi'an (3 M.)
see above. We then follow (he delightful Campan Valleii which is bio--
dered by green hills with bright pastures on the right and uu the left liy
150 IT. Rmite 22. ST. P.KRTRAND-DE-COMINGES.
sterile rocks. It takes its name from the Campani, who inhabited it dvir-
ing the Roman period. — 33/4 M. Campan has given its name to a well-
known kind of green marble, shaded with red and white, which is quar-
ried higher up the valley (see below). - At (71/2 M.) Sie. Marie, the road
from Bareges, over the Col du Tourmalet, joins our route. On this
route, 21/2 M. fnim the junction, is Gripp, with its fine waterfalls (p. 145).
The Luchon road now ascends the Se'oube valley, which is a con-
tinuation of the Campan valley. — 11 M. Paillole (3640 ft.), a tavern in
a hollow still covered with pastures but surrounded by forests which in-
dicate our approach to the higher mountains. The /'ic rfVlrfct'zon (9285 ft.),
to the S., may be ascended in 1 day from Paillole; the ascent is difficult
and should not be attempted without a good guide. — 12i/.) 31. Espiadet,
a hamlet, with the Campan Marble Quarries. — The road now zigzags
up through pine forests. — I51/2 M- Col d'Aspin (4910 ft.) from which,
and still better from the height on the left, there is a magnificent *View
of the Aiire Valley, which we now descend. This very fertile and thickly
peopled valley abounding in mineral springs for the most part little
known, is separated from the valley of Luchon by a range of mountains
which is connected with the Mont Maudit group , the loftiest of the Py-
renees. — The road descends by great zigzags (short-cuts for walkers) and
passes to the left of Aspin. — 221/2 BI. Arreau (Hot. de France; d'Angleierre),
a small town of 1200 inhab. and the chief place in the valley, is situated
at the confluence of the Neste d'Aure, the Keste de Louron , and the
Laslie. A railway is about to be built to join the Tarbes line at Lanne-
mezan (p. 114), whither in the meantime a public conveyance plies daily,
leaving Arreau at 8.30 a. m. About I1/4 M. to the S. is Cadeac, with two
bath-houses supplied with cold mineral springs very rich in stilphuret
of sodium , and used in cutaneous diseases. About 41/0 31. to the N. is
Sarrancolin, celebrated for its red marble veined with grey or yellow.
From Arreau our route ascends the Louron valley to the S.E., leaving
right and left Couret and Cazaux-Debat, where there are mineral springs. ^
26 M. Bordires, with the ruins of a castle. Then the valley expands and
becomes thickly peopled. — At (28 M.) Avajan we cross the Neste and
leave the old and longer road on our left. — 291/4 M. Fr(chet-Cazaux. —
31 M. Louder vielle. We now leave the Louron valley and ascend on the
left by a ravine and forest to the (34 M.) Col de Peyresoiirde (5065 ft.), where
the view is limited. The descent into the Arboust Valley is made via
(381/2 M.) Cazaux, which lies 41/2 M. from Luchon (p. 151).
22. Bagneres-de-Luchon and its Environs.
I. From Montr6jeau (Tarbes) to Bagnferes-de-Luchon.
221/2 M- r.AiL\VAY in 1-11/:, hrs. (fares 4 fr. 45. 3 I'r. 20, 2 fr. 40 c).
Montre'jeau, see p. 114. — We leave 011 the left the Toulouse
line and enter the Garonne valley. — 8^/4 M. Lahroqutre.
About 2 M. to the S. is St. Bertrand-de-Cominges (Hot. de Cominges),
the ancient city of the Convenae (Lngdunum Conveiiarnin) , a place of
importance under the Romans but reduced to ruins towards the end of
the 6th cent, after the overthrow of Gondovald, the rival of King Guntram,
who liad taken refuge here. At present it is a small town of 718 inhab.,
which owes its name to one of its best known bishops. Its situation
upon an isolated rock renders it conspicuous from a distance. The old
*Cathedral is one of the most interesting in the S. of France and particu-
larly worth seeing. In part it dates from the time of St. Bertrand (1082)
lint it is chiefly tlie work of Bertrand de Goth, who was its bishop (1295-
1299) and later became Pope (Clement V). The facade is flanked by a
square tower with a modern spire. Its portal has columns with curiously
decorated capitals and other sculptures including an antique head of Jup-
iter. Several liouiau inscriptiuus are also built into the facade. The
Iloleh. P.ACINKRES-DE-LUC'IION. Il.ncnde'J^. lal
interior Las a fine Gothic nave, OTer 80 ft. in lieiglit , with eleven side
cliapels. The most conspicuous features, however, are the *Rood-loft and
the ♦Choir-screen, superb examples of early Renaissance woodwork, com-
pleted in 1536 and forming as it were a second edifice within the church,
of which the choir occupies the greater part. They are equally remarkable
for the richness and for the variety of their carving, though in this respect
surpassed by the 68*Stalls to be found within. The *High-altar has also
some remarkable carvings representing the lives of the Virgin and of
Christ, and at the side of the entrance of the church is a dilapidated
organ-case also of the Renaissance period. Behind the choir is the tomb
of St. liertrand (1432). In the 1st chapel on the left is the ^'Tomb of
Kishop Hugh de Chatillou , of the 15th cent. The sacristan who shows
the choir (ring the bell thrice) also shows the line Romanesque cloisters
(23 arcades) on the S. of the church and now in ruins, and the sacristy
where are preserved two copes, the mitre, ring, and ivory pastoral staU'
of St. Bertrand, etc. Visitors make a small otlering to the church, but
no gratuity is expected.
About 1/2 M. to the E. of St. Bertrand, in the fields, on the way to
(35-40 min.) Loures, where the train can be rejoined (see below), is the
Church of Ht. Just , in a burial - ground entered by a Romanesque door-
way into which an antique inscription has been built. The church, also
in part of ancient materials, is a somewhat clumsy building in the Ro-
manesque style, with a side portal and ciborium of the 13th cent., both
wortli notice.
For the Grotte de Oargas, 5 M. to the N. of St. Bertrand, see p. 114.
We iross the Garonne a little beyond Labroquere. — 5M. Loiiret,
IV4M. to the N.K. of wliich is Bnrhdznn with a mineral spring
(sulphate of lime) and a 16- 17th cent, castle coninianding a good
view. — T'/a M- Oalit. — Q^/^M. Salech(tn, the station for the
baths of Ste. Marie, ^/^ M. to the N.W. , and for those of Siradati,
■V4 M. farther to the W. Their waters are similar to those of Bar-
bazan. — The mountains at the head of the valley now begin to ap-
pear and we again cross tlie Garonne. — IIV4 ^'- Fronsnc , to the
left, commanded by a keep of the 12th century. We once more
cross the Garonne, which descends on the left from the Spanish
Vnlley of the Aran, in which a railway is to be built. — 1;5 M.
Mariiinnc-St. Be'nt. St. Beat (Hot. du Commerce), a small town
of 1000 inliab. at the entrance of a picturesque defile on the bank
of the Garonne, has a church and a castle partly of the 11th cent.,
with a statue of the A'irgin on the principal tower. The quarries
of grey and wliite marble here were worked even in the time of the
Romans. To the N. are the Pie du Gars (5765 ft.) and the Pic
Saillant (5860 ft.) whence there is a very fine view. — The line
now ascends, traverses a short tunnel, and crosses three bridges. —
16'/4M. Lti;e ; 18 M. Cier-de-lA(cJnm. We now enter the Luchon
valley and have a good view of the snow -crowned mountains at its
head. — 19'/4M. Antitinav. - 22'/2 M- Baciriires-de-Lurhun : the
station is ^/4 M. from the centre of the town (omnibus 60 c.; luggage
40 c. each trunk).
II. Bagn6res-de-Luchon.
Hotels. Gli.-HoT. DE BONNE.MAISUN, (jHAND-llnTKI., Gr.-HoT. DES BaINS,
ii'KrioKY, Sacaron, Broc-Verueil, du Parc, d'Augleterre (from 11 fr. per
day), de la Poste-Secail, de Paris & de i,a Paix (10 fr.), de Bordeaux,
ir)'2 II.noii/e22. P.AONKRES-DE-LUCITON. Curriofie.^.
BE France (9 fr. a day), all in the AUee or Cours d'Etigny, beginning from
the Thermal Estab. The first named are the dearest. Gr. -Hot. Rk:hk-
MEU, Rue d'Espagne ct des Thermes, also near the Baths and of the
1st class; Gi;.-H(')T. DES TiiBRMBs, Rue des Thermes, beside the preceding;
Hot. Canton (11 fr. a day), line d'Espagne, behind those in the AlUie
d'Etigny; Gr.-Hot. dr laicnoN bt du Casino, at a distance from the centre
of the town and the baths. — Hot. du Commerce, Rue Neuve. Dejeuner
usually at 10.30 a.m., dinner at 6.30 p.m.
Villas, Apartments, and Rooms to let. In the Rne d'Espagne beyond
the Quinconces, the Villa:^ or Maisons Monteil, 0. Gleye, Vignaux, Cantaloup^
Hugiiet, Florida, and Merens ; in the AUee d'Etigny, very numerous : Lafont
(bookseller), B- Gascon, Gasquet, Lozes, Perrotin, Colomic, etc.; in the Alice
des Bains, Baqui; in the Avenue du ('asino, Bonnette , Descorps, Estrnjo,
etc. — Ladies travelling alone are recommended to the Convent de VEspe-
rance. Route de St. Mamet. Comp. p. xx.
Living at Luchon is expensive during the season, whicli is at its
height from the end (if June to the end of August.
Cafes-Restaurants, Amative, du Pare, Divan, AUee d'Etigny, etc.
Bath-Establishment. Drinking, subscription for 1 month, 10 fr. between
July 1st and Sepl. 1.5th, 5 fr. before and after these dates. Baths, 60 c.-
21/2 fr. according to the time of year and the hour. Douches, 40 c. - 3 fr. —
The list of Luchon Physicians is exhibited in the entrance- hall of the
Establishment.
Carriages. Cab, with 1 horse, per drive by day 1 fr. , by night (mid-
night to 6 a.m.) 2V•Jll■•^ pei' '"'• 3 and 4 fr. ; with 2 horses, per drive
1 fr. 30 and 3 fr. 25 c., per lir. 3 fr. 75 e. and 5 fr. ; outside the town 33/4
and 43/4 f''- per liour. — Private Carriages for Excursions , witli 2 liorses
20-35 fr., according to distance; vvith 4 liorses, 25-40 fr. — Brakes start for
the Vallee du Lys and the Lac d'Oo daily at 11.30 a. m.; fare 3 or 4 fr.
each, or more, according to number of passengers; tlie fares and times
are posted up in the Alle'e d'Etigny. The breaks do not always go to
the Lac d'Oo; (MKpiire at one of the oflices, Nos. 26 and .50 in the AUee.
Guides and Horses are numerous and regulated by tariff (see excur-
sions), l)ut it is always prudent to ascertain charges beforehand. Ad-
mission fees , tolls , and horses for the guides are at the cost of the tra-
veller. Most of the guides merely let horses or act as conductors for
parties on horseback; the chief mountain guides are Pierre and Firmin
liarrau, Bart. Courrege, Guill. Bajnn, and Jean Ilaurillon.
Casino, open from June 1 to Sept. 30: 1 day, 1 fr. 50 c., per week
10 fr. , fortnight 17 fr., month 30 fr. , season 60 fr. Theatre at the Casino :
orchestra stalls 4 fr. , 2 fr. 20 c. at the beginning and end of the season.
Family tickets at a reduction.
Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Sylvie at the E. end of the AUee
d'Etigny.
English Church Service in summer at M- CorneilWs Chapel.
Bagneres-de-Liirhon or simply Luchon (2065 ft.) is a town of
3729 iiihab. , charmingly situatcil at the end of the valley of the
same name. It is the nearest town to the cential Pyreneaii range
and has been celebrated for its baths from the time of the Romans,
to whom it was known as Balnearid' Tjixonien»e.s. Frequently ra-
vaged daring the Middle Ages and in later centuries, this thermal
station, like many others, was at one time almost completely deserted ;
but since the close of last century it has revived, and has for many
years been one of the most prosperous watering-places in the Pyre-
nees, visited annually by about 30,000 patients and tourists. It has
the advantage of its rival Cauterets in possessing a greater variety
of thermal saline and sulphureous springs and a milder climate,
owing to its lower altitude. Its climate is, however, more viuiable.
Mineral fipriiui.->. RAOXKnKS-DK-LUC'IION. ff. Hov/e 2-2. 15^1
Ldchoii consists of two distinct quarters, the old town and the
new. The old town, the nearer to the station, whence it is reached
l)y a grand avenue of plane trees, dating from 1788, is a small
collection of mean houses, with narrow and tortuous streets, on the
left bank of the One aiul at the mouth of the Arboust valley. The
modern Romanesque C7i»rf/i, decorated with mural paintings by
Komain Cazes, is the only edifice worthy of note.
The new town, on the other hand, is farther from the station,
lower down, between the One and the Pique. It is about Ave times
as large as the old town and is handsomely laid out with pleasant
buildiuKs, villas surrounded with gardens, good streets, and fine
promenades. The *AUee or AUt'es d' Efigny, which we enter immed-
iately beyond the old town, is an avenue planted with four rows
of old lime-trees, which extends to the Bath Kstablishment. It is
the centre of the town and takes its name from Meyret d'J^tigny,
who came to Luchon after 1751 as magistrate, induced the chemists
Bayen and Richard to examine the waters, had the Montr^jeau and
Blgorre roads made, and laid out this promenade in 1765. At the
end of the valley appear the three summits of the Pic 8acrous, Pic
de Sauvegarde, and Pic de la Mine (pp. 160, 159).
The B.VTH Establishment, adjacent on the W. to the Super-
bagneres mountain, from which the springs rise, is a large build-
ing with nothing remarkable in its exterior save its peristyle of 28
pillars , each a monolith of white St. Beat marble. In the interior
the entrance-hall (Salle des Pas-Perdus) is a fine cliamber decorated
with mural paintings by Romain Cazes , representing the springs,
oreads, etc. Two transverse galleries lead to the halls for baths and
douches; and a staircase at the end to the drinking places, and to
the curious subterranean galleries. An annexe is allotted to vapour
baths and to 'graduated moistenings' under a special system. The
establishment at Luchon is considered to be one of the best or-
ganised in existence; it is open all the year round.
The Mineral Waters are chiefly saline, but some contain bi-
carbonate of iron. One of the advantages of Luchon as a health-
resort is the great choice presented by its 75 Sprimia, which vary
much in their composition , in amount of sulphuration , and in
temperature (62° to 151" Fahr.), and thus allow of a great diversity
of treatment. They are, however, especially employed in skin affec-
tions, rheumatism, scrofula, lymphatic cases, catarrhs, syphilis,
and surgical cases. The waters are drunk, but chiefly taken in
baths. They change rapidly on exposure to the air, becoming milky
and precipitating sulphur. The principal springs, all sulphureous,
are known by the following names: Ueine (132° Fahr.) , Bayen
(151°), Ase'nmr (128°), HI chard Nouvelle (i2%7°) , (irotte Supe-
r/ettre (137.5°), Ji/rtnc/ie (117°), Ferras Superieure (104°), Jiordeu
No. I (120°), and Orotte Iiiftrieiire (126°). The remaining springs
either difl'er but little from these, or are used as 'sources alimentaires',
154 II.n(>itle'J2. MONTAUP.AN. Erntrsions
i. e. in a comMnation of springs of small outflow. The annual yield
of the warm sulphur springs is over 132,000 gallons per day.
In front of the Baths stretches the line Fiomenade des Quin-
ru)ices, where concerts are given in the morning from 9 to 10 (in the
Casino in the evening). Chair 10 c. during the day, 20 c. for the
concerts, or by subscription.
Adjoining the promenade is a Jnrdhi Anglais with a small
lake, the Buvefte du Pre, and a Fruitihe for the whey-cure. Higher
up is the Bosquet, a much frequented promenade at the foot of
Superbagneres (p. 157) , with the Fontaine d' Amour and several
restaurants; it affords pretty views. The Alle'e des Bains, extend-
ing from the Quinconces to the bank of the Pique and along that
river, forms a promenade in the town itself.
The Grand Casino is in the new town between the All^e des
P>ains and tlie Boulevard du Casino. It is a handsome building of
recent erection and situated in a park of about 9 acres. The rooms
are extensive and richly ornamented, including a concert room, ball
room, theatre, reading, billiard, and refreshment rooms, etc.
On the first floor are some Relief-models of much interest, executed by
Le'^at, the engineer. One represents the whole chain of the Pyrenees on
a scale of 1 to 40,(X)0, and another, a master-piece of patience and accuracy
modelled on the spot, the central range of the same mountains on 1 : 10,000
horizontal, and 1:5000 vertical scale. There are also geological and bota-
nical collections, an exhibition of paintings, etc.
The principal points of interest in the immediate vicinity of Luchon
are Castelvieil and the WaterjalU of Juzet and Montatiban. — Juzet lies
about 2 M. to the N.E., on the right bank of the Pique, and is reached
by crossing lirst the railway and then the river, not far from the station.
The fall is about 120 ft. high; 1/2 fr. is charged for visiting it, but it
can be well seen from the opposite side of the valley. — Montauban,
li/.j M. to the K. of Luchon, along the road prolonging the Rue de Pique,
may also be reached from Juzet in 1/2 hr. The fall is at the top of the
village and the usual approach is through the cure's garden (50 c). —
Castelvieil is a ruined tower (14th cent.) on an isolated hill (2530 ft.)
about 2 M. up the valley, to the left of the road leading into Spain. It
commands a line view \\\i and down the valley of the Pique and of the
valley of Burbe to the E. (50 c). In making the excursion into the Val
du Lys (p. 157) we pass the tower. Not far from it is a chalybeate spring.
III. Excursions.
To St. Berteanb-de-Cominges, 22 M., carriage 30-35 fr. ; rail-
way route via Loures, see p. 150.
*To THE Lac d'Oo , 10 M., of which 8 M. are practicable for
carriages; brakes, see p. 152; guide (unnecesscary) and horse 6 fr.
each ; carriage and pair 25 fr., with 4 horses 30 fr. An early start
is advisable, to avoid the heat. After passing through the old town
and along the Alice des Soupirs, we follow the Bagneres-de-Bigorre
road, which flrst ascends sharply and then descends into the Val-
ley of the Arboust. — 2% M. Chapelle-St. Aventin, at the mouth
of the Oiieil valley (p. 156). — 8^/4 M. St. Aventin , a village with
a Romanesque church into which some ancient altars and carvings
from Lurhuti. LACD'OO. 11. Rmite '2)>. If)".
have been built. — iVa M. Cazaux-de-l' Arbmtst, where the church
has some rude but interesting frescoes of the 15th century. Here
we leave the Bagneres road (p. 150) , turn to the left , and skirt the
right side of the huge moraine, deposited by the glacier which
once filled the Oo valley, descending more than 5000 ft. lower than
those of to day. The tourist will observe many erratic blocks due
to this glacier. — 5'/2 M. Oo (guide, J. Brunet) , at the mouth of
the narrow valley of that name, which is also known as the Val
d'Astan (toll for each horse 20 c). — At (8 M.) Granges d'Astnu
the carriage-road ends, and the excursion must be continued on
horseback (2-3 fr.) or on foot. To the left opens the vale of Me-
dnxiioles , interesting to botanists; to the right is the Vald'Es-
quierry . which is also rich in flowers. The latter valley, at the
entrance to wliich is the Cascade de la Chevelure de Madeleine,
forms the first part of the difficult but interesting ascent (2 hrs.)
of the rir des aonrs-BLancs (Gouffres Blancs ; 10,220 ft.). The ascent
leads past the Lac de Caillaouas, on the bank of which is a hut
with sleeping accommodation. — The Lac d'Oo road now ascends
in zigzags among huge rocks, to the left of the torrent which de-
scends from the (•V4 hr.) *Lac d'Oo, or de Se'ctUeJo (4920 ft. ; Inn ; each
pers. and horse 25 c.). The lake is nearly '/a M. long and about
'/3 M. broad and has an area of 95 acres with a depth of 180-210 ft.
Its waters, which are full of trout, are steadily shrinking and there
is little doubt that, like many others, the lake will ultimately
disappear. The scene is wild and impressive. The lake is sur-
rounded by bold and lofty rocks, above which appear the snow-
clad summits of the Quairats (left) , the Montarqu4 (in front) , and
the Crete de Spijoles and the Pic de Nere (right; nearer). At the
head of the lake a fine * Waterfall (890 ft.) descends in three suc-
cessive leaps to the rocks below, while not the least charm of the
picture is the changeful mirror afforded by the greenish waters of
the lake. Ferry across the lake, 1 pers. 1 fr. 75 c., 2 pers. 2 fr.,
3 or more pers. 75 c. each; boat round tlie lake 2'/2' 3, and 4 fr.,
each addit. pers. 75 c. To reach the waterfall on foot takes 35 min.
(rough path).
Ti) THK PoKT d'Oo (Pic Quairats)^ 8 hrs. from Liichon, 51/4 hrs. from the
I.ac d'Oo: guide 10-12 fr. , horse to (121/2 M.) the Lac de Saousat 8 I'r. —
From tlie I.ac d'Oo (see above) we ascend to tlie left and in 1 hr. pass
llie Lac (V E.ipi7iyo (()160 ft.), whence tlie difficult ascent of the Pic Quairat.i
( 10,035 ft.) may be made in 4 hours. In 25-30 min. more we reach the Lac
(le Saoiisai (6395 ft.), where we leave the path to the Portillon d'Oo (see be-
low) on the left. The pyramid in front is theTuc de Montarque (see below).
We take tlie right hand path, which is very steep, and, II/2 hr. farther
on, skirt a small lake and the Pic dt .Sjnjoles (10,000 ft.). Anotlier I1/2 hr.
brings us to the Lac Glace (VOo (81Q0 i\.) I>e)onrl which we enter on per-
petual snow. The ascent now becomes easier and it is only V4 ''r. to the
Port d'Oo (9850 ft.), the col between the Pic iln Port d'Oo ( 10,215 ft.), on tlie
right, and the .Sti7 de la Baque (10,040 ft.), on the left. The view is
striking; on every side are mountains covered witli snow and glaciers,
the chief summits being tlie Pic Posets in front of us, the Gours-Blancs
to the W., the crest of the Spijoles to the N.W., and to the E. the Ora-
156 //. Uonte 22. MONNE. E.rrv)-!<!nns
bioules. — The descent on the other side of the col brings \is in 4 lirs. to
Venasque (p. 159).
To THE PoiiTii-LON i)"0o (Tuc lie Moniarqne^ I'ic tie Crc^ioulea, Vic de
Perdi(/hero) ^ aho\U 8hrs.; guide and liorse as above. The road i.s the
same as the above as far as the (Si/a hrs.) Lac de Saousat. Tlience we
ascend to tlie left between the Tuc de Montarque and the Pic Quairats
and pass the Michot Waterfall and to the right of the (2 hrs.) Lac Glacf
du Portillon (8660 ft.). The last part of the a"scent is difficult. The Por-
tillon d'Oo (998.5 ft.) is the highest of the Pyreneau passes; the view is
similar to that from the Port d'Oo (see above). — From the Lac Glace
du Portillon the Tuc de MontarqrU (9685 ft.; 1 hr. ; easv), to the N.E., the
ric de Crabioules (10,230 ft.; IV*!"'-), to the E. , and" the Pic Perdighero
(9585 ft.; 21/2 hrs.), to the S.E., may be ascended. The two last are dif-
licult; the views from all three are fine.
To THE Pic de Cecire, 4-41/.i hrs.; guide and horse 8 fr. each. We
proceed to Cazaux (p. 155) and then take an easy bridle-path to the S.,
which beyond (40min.) Bordes - de - Labach leads direct to the peak, by
the Col de la Coiime-de- Bourg. A shorter but more fatiguing route leads
via Superbagneres (see p. 1.57) and thence to the \V. by the arete of
a spur of the mountain. The Pic de C6cir6 (7875 ft.) allbrds a wide
view, one of the finest to be had in the Luchon district. To the S. it com-
mands a grand amphitheatre of snow -clad peaks from those of the Lys
valley to the Pic Posets. — Tlie descent, by the Lys valley, takes 31/2 li''S-
To THE Pic de Moi<segu , 41/2 hrs.; guide and horse 6 fr. eacli , or
7 fr. if the return is made by the Esquierry valley (5 hrs.). To (41/2 M.)
Cazau.r, see p. 155. We follow the same road for II/2 M. farther, passing
(larin, then diverge to the left, by the route to (1 BI.) Gouaux-de- VAr-
boHsi. Thence we ascend tlirough meadows, a wood, and pastures to
a slate-quarry where we turn to the left and, passing a small lake, reach
(I1/4 hr.) a little col with a spring. From here to the summit, II/4 hr. more.
Travellers intending to return by the P^squierry valley dismount, I/2 hr.
from the spring, and send tlie liorses to the Pas de Couret, on the S.
side of the mountain. The Pic de Hons^gu (7890 ft.) atVords a very fine
view of the central chain of the Pyrenees, with its glaciers, from those
of the Gours-Blancs to those of tlie Monts.Maudits. At the foot of the
truncated cone forming the summit is an eclio which repeats eight syl-
lables. — The descent to the Pas de Couret or Col du ^'al d'Esquierry
takes 1 hour.
To THE MoNNE, 4V2 l>rs. ; guide (unnecessary) and horse, each
7 fr. by day, 10 fr. by night, when the ascent is made in order to
see the sunrise; carriage to (9'/4 M.) Bourg-d'Oueil and back 20-
25 fr. — We follow the Lac d'Oo road as far as the (2V4 M.) Cha-
pelle St. Aventin where we turn to the riglit into the pretty OueH
Valley^ in which we pass a succession of small villages, well situat-
ed but otherwise uninteresting: Bentjtie'-Des-fouti. Benque'-DesHtts^
Maylin, (2^/4 M.) St. Vaul-d'Oueil , Mayrcgne, Cfuibous, Civcs,
and (S'/aM-) Botirg-d'OneU, (Inn). Beyond this village we ascend
to the right to (I'/a l"'-) ^^^^ summit of the Moiin6 or Montne
(7045 ft.), a view-point situated between the plain and the higliest
range and commanding the Pyrenees from Mont-Perdu to the Pic de
Montvallier, a sweep of 50 M., distant from the Monn^ from 25 to
30 M. in a direct line. The glaciers of the central mass as far as
the Monts-Maudits are also well seen. The ascent of the Monn<5
is most frequently made in order to enjoy the sunrise, which from
.lune to the end of August, owing to the sun then rising to the N.
of the mountain>i, lights up their snows and glaciers.
fruvi Lnrlioii. VALLKK DU LYtf. II. Iluutc :>2. 107
To THE Pic d'Antenac, 3-4 hrs. , there and back 6 hrs. ; guide
(not indispensable) and horse 6 fr. The route is identical with the one
just described as far as (a'/a M.) Sf. I'aul-d'Oneil. Thence we
ascend to the right by a steep bridle- patli into a bare valley and
across tlie Cul de In .^erre. The Pic d'Antenac (about 6oG0 ft.) affords
a view embracing the Monts-Maudits and the glaciers of Crabioules
and of the Gours-Blancs , etc., but more especially in the direction
of the Garonne valley. — In returning we may follow the crest of
the mountain southward and descend either into the Oueil valley
at SaronriiUe. opposite Benqu4-Dessous (see above) or, farther on,
into tlie Arboust valley at Trebons , a little before the Chapelle
St. Aventin.
To .SuPEEBAGKEBES. 2'/2"3';2 111*- • g"ide and horse, 6 fr. each.
Pedestrians may ascend either directly behind the Baths or by a
path on the left at the first bridge (Pont de Mousqueres) , on the
Bagneres road (p. 150); but both routes are hard to find. Riders
proceed to (3V2 M.) St. Aventin (p. 154) and thence ascend to the
left, by meadows and a shaded bridle-path in the direction of the
('/4 hr.) Gramjes de Gonrron. Crossing the brook beyond the ham-
let they mount to the left, and trMvcr-f .i pine wood to the (V4hr.
more) pastures and plateau of Superbagndres (5900 ft. ; Inn). The
plateau forms a kind of terrace of the Fir de Ce'cire', which rises
1970 ft. above it, requiring 2 hrs. more for the ascent (with guide;
see p. 156). The view from the plateau is delightful in the direc-
tion of theLuchon valley, but even finer looking towards the glaciers
of the Cirque du Lys. The descent may be made to the E. into the
Vallee du Lys.
To THE Vallee du Lys and the Rue dEnfer, a most in-
teresting excursion ; road to the (8 M.) head of the valley, then paths
practicable for horses (I'^hr.). Carriage and pair, 20 fr., with
4 horses 25 fr. ; guide (unnecessary) and horse 5 and 7 fr. each.;
Itrakes see p. 152. We follow at first the road to .Spain, passing the
tower of Castelvieil (p. 154) and crossing a bridge over the Pique,
but a little farther on leave this road to the left (to the Port de
^'enasqup, seep. 159) and return to the left hank by the (3 M.)
Pout deliavi. At this point begins the *Vall6e du Lys, or /.?X
one of the finest in the Pyrenees. The valley is at first narrow and
flanked by wooded heights, while the torrent, skirted by the road,
forms several cascades, the chief of which is the Trou de Buuneuu
OT tha E-if ran (/Kill e', between huge rocks which demand caution. [A
visitor, to whom there is a monument, met his death here in 1876.]
The valley soon expan<ls and we see in front of us the *'Cirque du
Lys, shut in by noble mountains clad with glaciers among which
that of the Crabioules is conspicuous. Of the three inns here, the
best is that at the head of the valley, on the left beyond the torrent
'about 3600 ft.). A few minutes more bring us to the Cascade
d'Enfer, a massive fall in a gloomy cliannel , worn in the rocks by
158 If. Route 22. RUE D'ENFER. Excursions
the torrent. It is not possible , however, to obtain a single com-
prehensive view of the entire fall. To the left, on the other side
of the inn, is a much smaller waterfall, named from its shape the
Cascade du Ccjir. It is most conveniently visited on the return by
the S. side of the Lys. A zigzag path to the right, before the great
waterfall is reached, leads in 25min. to a bridge beyond this smaller
fall. From the latter we reach, in about 15 min. more, the grand
*Gouffre d'Enfer, which should be viewed from the foot of the flight
of steps leading down into it. About 10 min. farther on there is an-
other bridge , beyond which we continue to skirt the torrent. The
gorge slightly expands. In 40 min. more we reach the *Rue d'Enfer,
a striking chasm in a mountain of slate , of which tlie end and top
can scarcely be seen from the frail bridge at the entrance. Farther
progress in this direction is impossible , as the Rue is occupied by
the torrent which rushes down it over masses of rock.
To THE Lac Vert (Fir de Maupas, Pic de Bourn) ^ 4 hrs., carriage-road
to the head of tlie Val du Lys, thence a bridle-path; guide (unnecessary
for the road) and horse, 8 fr. each. From the last inn we turn to the
S.E.. in the direction of tlie Cascade du Caur (see above), and ascend
through the wood to the (25 min.) Cascade de Solai/e. Farther on we
pass the Cascade de Tri'gon on the left, and reach (IV4 li"". from the inn)
the Cirque des Graoues, an ancient lake-bed, and (I/4 hr. more) the beau-
tiful, horse-shoe shaped Lac Vert (6430 ft.), bordered on the E. by high
rocks. The lake receives, by a cascade on the S., the waters of the Lac
Bleu, which lies 40 min. liigher up. — From the Lac Vert the difficult
ascents (about 4 hrs.) of the Pic or Tuc de Maupas (10,200 ft.) and the Pic
de Bourn (10,040 ft.) may be made. Fine views.
To THE Pic de Bacanebe and the Pic de Burat, 4-5 hrs.,
9 hrs. there and back ; guide and horse, 8 fr. each ; a fine excursion.
We proceed first to Juzet (p. 154) and thence ascend to the N.E.
to (3 M.) Sode (3000 ft.). Through woods we reach (5 M.) Artigues
(4070 ft.) and (l'/4hr. farther to the E.) , the liurhers de Clgalire,
a fine view-point. We next skirt the mountain to the left, and in
1 '/4 hr. more gain the summit of the Pic de Bacanfere (7'200 ft.), the
view from which incluiles tlie valley of Luchon ami its side valleys,
as well as the Aran valley, the Port de la Glere, Port de Venasque,
and Port de la Piquade (see below) , the Monne and the Pic du
Midi, on the sky-liue, the .Superbagneres plateau, the cone of the
Quairats, the Monts-Maudits, etc. — About '/2 ''i- to the N. of the
Pic de Bacanere rises the Pales or Pic de Burat (7050 ft.: Inii)
which affords a splendid view resembling those from the Monn^
and the Pic d'Antenac (p. 157). — The descent may be made to
the W. to Gouaux-de-Luchon , whence the Luchon road may be
reached, to the left.
To THE I'ou.iASTOu, 41/., lir.>i. , tliiM-e and back S lirs. ; guiib; and borse
(as far as the Col), G fr. each. Tlie r.)\ili' leads via (20 min.) .Unntaiibaii
(p. 154), a small wood, the (U/o hv.) Prairies <rKrran (tine view), and the
(10 min.) Foret de fidsartirjues, wtiere we turn to the right. We next reach
the (I1/2 hr.) Fontaine liouge, a chalvbeatc sjiring, near the little Grotte
duChat (1 fr. ; uninteresting), and (V2 '"". more) the Cnl des Cntirets (6990 ft.).
Thence the (i/o-^/i lir-) svimmit of the Poujastou (63'-'5 ft.) is reached ou
from Lnchon. POUT DK VENASQUE. II. Route '2^2. 150
foot, over slippery turl'. Here, on the side next the Aran valley, which is
well seen, we are on Spanish territory. The glaciers of the Val du Lys
are in sight, hut cot those of the Monfs-Maudits.
*To THE Port de Venasuub and the Port ub la Piquade
(Vic de Saui-egarde) . a very interesting excursion, but long and
fatiguing, requiring a whole day. It may be made on liorseback
throughout and even a carriage may be taken as far as the (6 M.)
Hospice. Guide and horse to the Hospice 5, to the Port 8 fr. Car-
riage and pair to the Hospice. 25 fr., with 4 horses 30 fr. ; toll
at the frontier 50 c. — We take the road to Spain described as far
as the Fu7it de Ravi on p. 157. Thence we continue the ascent, to
the left, of the Pique valley, passing (^4 M.) the Granges de Labach
or de Casfaing. whence a road diverging to the right (the old road
over the Col de la Glere, p. 160) leads to (20-25 min.) the Cascade
des Demoiselles (about 4920 ft. ; see below). Our road continues
straight on through the Bois de Charuga.
6 M. Hospice du Port de V6nasque , de Fiance, or de Luchon
(4460 ft.), a large and good inn where the carriage- road ends and
three paths diverge respectively to the Port de Venasque, the old
Port de la Glere, on the right, and the Ports Mounjoyo and de la
Piquade, on the left.
Crossing a bridge in front of the Hospice and following the left bank
of the Pique we come to a fork of the footpath. The left branch leads
to (10 min.) the Cascade du Parisien. issuing from an e.xceedingly narrow
gorge and descending by five leaps. — The right-hand path at the fork
leads to the (2.5-30 min.) Cascade des Demoiselles, at the end of a gloomy
gorge shut in between wooded clilVs.
Beyond the Hospice the valley divides at the foot of the Pic de
la I'ique (7850 ft.) . the ascent of which is dangerous. The valley
to the left is the Val de la Freche ; that to the right is the sterile
and desolate Val du Fort de Ve'nasque, through which a toilsome
bridle-path leads to the (3^''4 M.) Port. — 7',2 xM. Le Culet . a spot
covered with detritus brought down by avalanches in the spring;
here there are two little waterfalls. — 8^/4 M. Vallon de l' Homme,
so named from the rude monument to a French custom - house of-
ficer who was murdered by a smuggler. Farther on, to the left, is
the Troudes Chaudronniers. where nine tinkers were buried in the
snow. Then above five small lakes, on the right, the path mounts
in zigzags to (9 .M.) the *Port de V6nasque (7930 ft.), a dip in the
frontier ridge between the Fie de la Mine (8880 ft.^ on the left, and
the Pic de Sanvegarde. on the right. The view of the Monts-Mau-
dits which here .suddenly opens is superb; but the prospect is even
finer from the *Pic de Sauvegarde (8975 ft. ; ^,'4-1 hr. from the Port)
which may be easily ascended even on horseback. There is a path
to the summit (1 fr. extra).
On the other side of the Col is a small Spanish inn. Bearing
to the left along the PeTia Blanca, we pass the springs of Pena
Blanca and Coustire* . and, always in view of the Monts-Maudits,
reach U',4M.) the Port de la Piquade or Ficade u950ft.), from
160 I J. Ruittr -J-J. I'lC 1)E L'ENTEC'ADE. Excursiuns
■vvhick the view is equally flue. The dilficult bit we now enter on,
to the left, over slippery rocks, is the Pas de I'Escnletfe (7870 ft.),
whence we may descend to (5 M.) the Hospice du Port de Venasque
via the Fas de Mounjoyu (which leads, on the right, into the Aran
valley), by a route presenting some difficulty at places, and finally
descending to the left, into the Val de la Freche (p. 159).
To THE Col de la. (tlere (Pic Sacrous) , 4 hrs ; guide and burse (to the
lake) 8 fr. each. The old road diverges to the right at the Granges de
Labacli, in the Pique valley (p. 159); the new ruad starts from the Itospice
du Port de Vc'nasiiiic; the two unite in the Cirque de la (Here, lri)m which
an easy ascent mounts to the Col de la Glere (7615 ft.), an old 'jxirt' or
pass into Aragon. The view from the col is somewhat limited, but from
the Lac de (lorgiUes, 10 min. btlow it on the Spanish side, there is a very
wide prospect. — The Pic Sacrous (8785 ft.), to the W., may be ascended
from the col in 8/4 hr. The view includes the Monts-Maudits and the
glaciers of the Vallee du Lys.
To THE Pic de l'Entecade, 4 hrs.; guide (not indispensable) and
horse, 6fr. each. This interesting excursion is about to be facilitated
by a mountain-railway like that on the Rigi. The route follows the
road to Spain as far as the Hospice (p. 159) and thence for ^4 hr.
more the bridle-path to the Port de la Piquade. Then, turning once
more to the left, we cross the pastures to the (V2 lir.) Cnbane de
Pouylane', inhabited by Spanish shepherds. Passing next the little
Etang des (Parses, we reach (10 min.) a col affording a view of the
Maladetta, and (20 min.) another col whence we see the Aran valley.
The summit of the Pic de I'EntScade (7285 ft.) is gaimnl in 10 min.
more. The view is magnificent, finer if possible on the Monts-
Maudits side than from the Port de Venasque. It includes moreover
the summits on this side and extends westward as far as the Pic du
Midi, the Vignemale, and Mont-Perdu; eastward over the Spanish
summits beyond the Aran ; and northward to the plains of Gascony.
To THE Pic i>e Nethou. This expedition, fit only for practised climb-
ers , is long and expensive, especially to the single traveller, but with
ordinary prudence it is without danger. The best season is between
July 20 and Sept. 1, and it requires two days. If the Rencluse route be
taken two guides are required, with ice-axes and ropes; but one guide
is sufficient for the ascent by the Malibierne valley. In the former case
riding is practicable as far as tlie (7 hrs.) Rencluse; in the latter case,
as far as the (IOV2 hrs.) Ribcreta hut. Guides and horse.s, each 15 fr.
y)er day; provisions must al.so taken. The night is si)Cut at the Spanish
inn beyond the Port du Venasiiuc (moderate) or better at the KencUise
(lOt'r.), or in tlie Ribercta hut. unless the traveller prefers to bivouac
iu the open air. — To the I'nri de yi'iiaaqiie, see, p. 159.
.4. Via THE Keniiase. Wc follow (he Port de la Piquade route as far
as the I'ena Blanca .Sprin'j, then turn to the right to the (1 hr.) J'lan def
Eiaiigi, and, farther on, to the ri'.'ht again to (1 hr. ; 7 hrs. from I.uchon)
the Rencluse (6970 ft.). This hut 'is situated at the foot of a rock near
the Gotiffre de Turmoil, where tlie Esera, (lie torrent fed by the Maladetta
glacier, becomes subterranean only to reappear in the Ve'nasciue valley.
The torrent of the Ntitliou ■ilacier also disappears at the Trnu du Toro,
V-> hr. from the Rencluse route, near the top of the Plan des Ktangs. —
A'very early start is made on tlie second day so as to ensure, it possible,
a clear view from the summit of the Ne'thou. We ascend in a S. S. E.
direction to (21/2 hrs.) the I'oriillon (95-10 ft.), between the Maladetta
Glacier, on the right, and the Nilhou (llacier , on the left. Then (using
from Tau-Iioh. PIC DE NETHOU. I [.Route 22. 161
the rope) we ascend the last-named, the main one (21/2 liv 1 M) 1 I'roni
N.W. to S.E., as far as the (1 hr.) Lac Coroni (10,410 ft.) at the foot of
ibe DOine du Nithou , which we ascend, with difficulty, in 1/2 hr. The
next part of the ascent, the (V2 I'r.) Pont de ifahomet, is the most trying
point for those who are subject to giddiness, as it is a ridge about 80 ft.
long and only 3 ft. wide, with an abyss on each side. This accom-
plished, we are on the Pic de Nithou, or d'Aneto (11,170 ft.), the highest
.•iuuimit of the Pyrenees, and the centre of the Monts-Kaudits , a nearly
isolated group of granite peaks, to the S. of the principal range, in Spa-
nish territory. The group has been compared to Mont Blanc, but it is
4600 ft. lower. The other summits are, to the W., tlie Maladetta (^11,005 ft.),
a name often given to the whole group, and also known as the Pic du
Milieu , the Pic Occidental de la Maladetta (10,865 ft.), and the Pic d\ilbe
(10,760 ft.). The range which links this mass to the main chain on the K.
includes the peaks of Las Sallanques, Moulieres, Fourcanade (9455 ft.), des
/larraiics, and Poumrro (8810 ft.). — The summit of the Ne'thou. a plateau
of 75 ft. by 26 ft., is surrounded by precipices on all sides, except the N. by
which the ascent is made. The view is very extensive but is often ob-
scured by mist and always indistinct on account of the elevation. The
peaks best seen are those mentioned above, those on the frontier to the
N.W., the Pic Posets to the W., and the Pic Malibierne (10,475 ft.) and Pic
Castanesa (9405 ft.) to the S. There is a register on the summit in
which the traveller writes his name and he is also desired to read the
thermometers fixed there. — The descent may be made by the Col de
Corone (see below), and thence over the (2 hrs.) Col de Queriyuena (9600 ft.)
to the (3/4 hr.) Lac de Qwei'iynena, Cregiiena, or Gregonio (8710 ft.), one of
the largest in the Pyrenees (200 acres), and by the Gorge de Queiiguena
to the Baina de Vrnasque, 5 hrs. from the summit. The horses should be
ordered to meet the traveller here or at any rate at the Hospice de
Venasque. — The Pic de la Maladetta (41/2 lirs.)"and the Pic dWlbe (3 hrs.)
are also ascended, through seldoui, from the Rencluse.
li. Via THE Malibikkne Vallky (Bains de Venasque). — From the Port
de VMaaqiie (p. 159) we descend to the right in I hr. to the Hospice de
Venasque (5895 ft.; toll). Thence we follow the Venasqvie (or Esera)
valley, crossing several torrents, one of which, the (1/3 lir.) Ramono,
forms a line waterfall. About 2 hrs. from the Port, 20 min. to the left,
are the Bains de Venasque (moderate), with warm sulphur springs similar
to those of Luchon. In 1/4 lir. more, on the left, is the Gorge de Queri-
gueiia (see above), and in another 1/2 I'r. we turn to the left from the
road 10 Venasque, a small fortified town. I1/4 hr. farther on. We now
ascend the Malibierne Valley., wooded at first and then pastoral, to (31/2 hrs.)
the Jiibereta Hut (6655 ft.), IOV2 'irs. from Luchon. — On the second day,
we follow the same track in the valley, first on the right and afterwards
on the left hank of the torrent, passing (II/4 hr.) a fine waterfall. "We
then ascend to the left (N.), leaving ou the left the Lac Inferienr d' Ereoueil
and the Lac Glacr d" Ereoneil and reach the (I/2 hr.) Lac Siipcrieiir iP Erioueil
(9070 ft.), which is also frozen. Thence we command a grand view of the
Glacier de Corone and of the massive precipices ofNethou and Maladetta.
We ascend for some time to the W. of the glacier and then cross it (no
rrevasses), to the (I3/4 hr.) Col de Corone (10,475 ft.), where we join the
route described above.
To THE Pic Posets, a toilsome but unhazardoiis expedition, seldom
made. It takes 3 days, the nights being spent at the Turmes hut (to
wliich riding is practicable), or at the Astos hut. Guides and horses,
each 15 fr. per day. We follow the route last described, up the V^-
nasqiie valley, and beyond the divergence of the Malibierne valley, to
the (71/2 hrs.) Pont de Cub^re, U/2 M. on this side of V(5nasque (see above).
Crossing the bridae we ascend to the N.W. in the A.^tos Valley, with its
line waterfalls, ("o the (H/o hr.) r?(7-wes //«< (5510 ft.) and the (II/2 hr.
more) Astos Hut (5900 ft.). At least an hour may be saved by leaving
the Ve'nas(iue road opposite the Baths and proceeding to the W. into the
Val de Litayrolles and so direct into the Astos valley, below the Turmes
Kaedeker. Southern Frani-e. 11
162 //. Route 23. ST. GIRONS.
hut. — The hut lies 51/2 hrs. below the, summit. We turn first to the
S. and then to the S.W., mounting a succession of rocky terraces to the
glacier, which is gained in 3 hrs. , at the Col de Paoul or Paiil (about
9510 ft.). Crossing the glacier, which is free from danger, we reach (about
1 hr.) a sheer rocky wall, the scaling of which (20 min.) is the chief dif-
ficulty in the expedition. The Pic Posets or des Po.teis (11,045 ft.), the
second summit in the Pyrenees, forms. like its neighbour the Nethou, on
the E., the centre of a nearly isolated mass. It commands a finer view
because it is more central: to the W., Mont-Perdu, the Vignemale, and
the peaks of Balaitous , Ger, Gabizos, and Midi d'Ossau; to the N.W.,
the Neouvielle and the Pic du Midi de Bigorre; to the N. the peaks of
Clarabide, Gours-Blancs, Port d'Oo, Perdighero, and Sauvegarde; to the
E., the Monts-Maudits: and to the S., the Pic d'Eriste. — The return may
be made on foot via the Port d'Oo (p. 155), 31/2 hrs. from the Astos hut:
there is no path and the descent to the Lac d'Oo is fatiguing, but the
Tiew to the N. is very fine.
23. From Boussens (Toulouse or Tarbes) to Aulus,
via St. Girons.
41 M. Railway to ('2OI/2 M.) fit. Girons, in II/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 5, 3 fr.,
2 fr. 25 c.). Diligence in the season from St. Girons to (2O1/2 M.) Aulus
in 3 hrs.; fare, 3fr.; another public conveyance li/2fr.; carriages, to
hold 4 pers., 25 fr.; the hotels also send carriages to meet the trains. A
'courrier' also leaves St. Girons at 4 a. m. and at 1 p. m.
Boussens and the Chateau de Roquefort, see p. 114. — Our line
diverges to the left from the Tarbes line, crosses the Garonne, and
ascends the Saint valley. SVa M. Mazeres-sur-Salat.
6 M. Salies-du-Salat , a small town dominated by the ruins of
a castle i 13- 14th cent.) and possessing some unimportant saline
and sulphur springs. — 8 M. His- Mane-TouUle is the station for
three villages. — 10 M. Castagnede; 13 M. Prat-et-Bonrepau.r:
16 M. Cnumont. The valley contracts.
16 M. St. Lizier, a decayed little town of 1478 inhab., pictur-
esquely situated on a hill to the left, is the awcx'iwt Lugdunum Con-
soranortim and was formerly the chief town of the Couserans. It
still retains a large part of its Roman Walls, with twelve towers. The
ancient Cathedral (12- 14th cent.) has a cloister of the 12- 13th
cent., etc. — About IV4M. to the E. (omnibus) is Audinac, a
hamlet with baths supplied by two considerable mineral springs.
41 M. St. Girons (Hotel de France or Ferriere), an industrial
town of 5453 inhab., at the confluence of the Salat, the Lez, and the
Baup, contains one modern and two ancient churches, of which
one is in ruins. It is a convenient starting-point for some interest-
ing excursions among the neighbouring parts of the Pyrenees. The
railway is to be extended to Foix (R. 24).
The Road to Senteik (I51/2 M.) ascends the Lez valley, to tlie S.W. —
At (21/2 M.) Aubert there is a fine bone-cavern, with stalactites. 3 M.
^foulis 'has a ruined castle. 5 M. Engommer; 8 M. CastiUon finn). 10 M.
Les Hordes, at the opening of the fine valley of (3 M.) Bethmale, whose
inhabitants retain their peculiar costtime. — In the ne,\t valley, the
Vallfe de Biros, one of the finest in the district, there are zinc and
lead mines. — 11 M. Bonnac. — I21/2 M. Sentein (/n«) contains a fortified
AULUS. //. Route 23. 163
church of the 14th century. — About 12 M. to the S. is the Port d'Vrets
(8355 ft.), leading into the Aran valley in Spain, and commanded by the
Pie (U ilaubeniii (94.50 ft.), the highest summit in this part of the Pyrenees.
The Road to Foix (p. 165), to the E., via the Baup valley and (IV4 M.)
Audinac (see above), forks at (6I/4 M.) Lescure, one branch leading to
(281/a M-) Painters (p. 165). About 11 M. from Lescure and I1/4 M. before
the little town of ifas-dWzil (Hot. du Grand-Soleil) is a gorge, contain-
ing the bold Boche du Mas, pierced by a large cavern through which
run the river Arize and the road. The cavern is 1/4 M. long and 260 ft.
high by 160ft. wide at the entrance, but less in the middle and at the
other end. Various side -galleries may be examined on application to
the keeper at the entrance.
The Road to Aulus (Coufleiis) ascends the valley of the Salat
which gradually narrows and forms a defile at the entrance to which
are the ivy-clad ruins of the Chateau d' Encourtiech. — 8^4 M.
Lacourt , with the remains of a 14th cent, keep and of a castle
(16th cent.). The gorge now passes between wooded heights. —
7' 2 M. Pont (le Kercabanar, at the confluence of the Salat and Arac.
The RoAii TO Tara.scon (28 M.), also interesting, crosses the bridge
and ascends the valley of the Arac. — Beyond (2i/.j M.J Castet, we thread
a (I/4 M.) rocky defile. 68/4 M- -B'*'''- 9V4 M. Massat (mt. Lap hie) , a
decayed town of 3912 inhab. , with bone-caverns in the vicinity. — 15 M.
Rieupregoun. — 20 SI. Le Port (4100 ft.; fine view), the col between the
Tuc de VIIomme-Mort (5490 ft.), on the left, and the Pic d'Estibat (5475 ft.),
on the right. — 23i/o JI. Satirat, with 3113 inhab., whence a public con-
veyance plies to Tarascon. — 23 M. B^deillac, with a ruined Castle and
two large and very interesting stalactite caverns. These may be visited
from Tarascon (p. "166).
The road now turns to the S. and traverses a short tunnel. —
8 M. St. Senvin. — 9 M. Soueix.
The RoAl> TO CoiFLENs (8V4 M.) diverges to the right from the Aulus
road a little t'arther on and continues to ascend the Salat valley. About
21/2 M. from Souei.v is Seix (II6t. Jiroussei), an ancient town of 3ll7 inhab.,
with Baths and marble quarries. Above it rises a hill (3965 ft.) on which
are the ruins of the Chateau de Afirabal. — From (2 M. farflier) Coujleiis-
de-Betmajou the ascent of the Montvallier, to the W., may be made in
7-71/0 hrs. (with guide from Seix). The route leads up the 'Estours vallev
to the (4 hrs.) Cabanes d'Aula, where the night may be spent, and thence
via the (21/2 hrs.) Col de Peyreblanque ^ and by a dip where we have
to pass below a rock, the only point of any difficulty. The Pic de Mont-
vallier (9314 ft.) is a nearly isolated cone commanding a wide prospect,
extending from the Monts-llaudits to the Montcalm. — The road beyond
Couflens-de-Betmajou traverses a gorge, dominated by the ruined Chdteau
de la Garde, and ends at (88/4 M.) CouJIens, an unimportant town, I71/2 M.
from St. Girons.
The valley again expands. Tlie Aulus road crosses the Salat
and ascends the valley of the Garbet, to the right of which rises
the Montvallier (see above). — 10 M. Vic, with an interesting Ro-
manesque church. — IOV2 M. Oust is a place of early origin
('Augusta'), with remains of its ancient walls. — 15' '2 M. Erce.
with 2973 inhabitants.
20V2 M. Aulus. — Hotels. HoTKi, 1)1- PARC, near the Casino; Gkand
Hotel, nearer the chief Bath Establishment; Hotel du Midi or Bir.os,
George, des Bains, at the entrance of the village; Hot. de France;
SouQxiBT, moderate. — Furnished Houses: Francis Roug^, Thioph. Cronzat,
H6tel de VEurope, etc. — Bath Establishments. Fee for drinking the waters,
11*
164 11. Route 23. AULUS.
10 fr. for 3 weeks at the old, 5 fr. at the new; Laths and douches, 2 fr.
at the old, 75 c. at the new.
Aulus (2500 ft.) is a well -situated village on the Garbet, in a
little valley enclosed by mountains covered with pastures and
woods. Its warm mineral Springs (sulphate of lime and iron) were
probably known to the Romans and still enjoy a considerable reput-
ation. The waters are strongly charged with soda and magnesia
and are actively purgative and diuretic. They have long been used
for a special treatment of serious cases of syphilis. There are two
Bath Establishments, both on the left bank of the river, to the right
of the village proper. The Etablissement Lombard, the older, with
four warm springs, is situated in an attractive little park, at the end
of which is a Casino. The newer Etablissement Lacoste has only
one spring (55° Fahr.), the water of which is heated for bathing. —
The village is uninteresting.
Excursions. — To the Montb6as (6240 ft.), the mountain overlooking
the valley on the N., an easy climb of 2 hrs. The view is fine and ex-
tends to the plains of Toulouse. Halfway up, from the Bertrone (4595 ft.),
there is also a good view of the valley and of a large number of the
mountain peaks on the frontier. — *To the Cascade d''Arsk, a delightful
walk of li/o-S hrs., up the valleys of the Garbet and the Arse, the latter
of which be"gins about II/2 M. to the S.E. of Aulus. We follow the left
bank of the torrent, traversing a defile known as the Trou d'Enfer. The
*Cascade d'Arse is one of the largest and finest in the Pyrenees. The
total height of the fall is about 360 ft., divided into three leaps of which
the second has a breadth of more than 160 ft. — To the Lac de Gakbet,
2 hrs. The road ascends the stream to the lints of Castel-Minier , where
we turn to the S. , .still following the beautiful valley of the Garbet,
which also forms a fine waterfall. The Lac de Garbet (5480 ft.) is ofeon-
.'.iderable size, and is surrounded by pastures. Not far from it is another
and smaller lake. — To Vicdessos, 41/.2 hrs. "We take the carriage-road
via Castel-Minier (see above), and thence over the (21/2 hrs.) Port de Saleix
(.5910 ft.) and via (I3/4 hrs.) Saleix (3320 ft.), whence there is a pretty
view. — Vicdessos., see p. 166.
24. From Toulouse to Foix, Tarascon, Ussat, and Ax.
77 M. Railway all the way. To (511/2 M) ^'"•'^' '" 2-2-V4 lirs. (fares
10 fr. 30, 7fr. 60, 5 fr. 60 c.). — To (61 M.) Tarascon, in 23/4 -31/2 hrs.
(fares 12 fr. 20, 9 fr. 5, 6 fr. 65 c). — To (63 M.) Ussat, in 23/4-33/4 lirs. (fares
12 fr. 60, 9fr. 40, 6fr. 90 c.). — To (77 M.) Ax, in 31/2-41/4 hrs. (fares
15 fr. 35, 11 fr. 50, 8 fr. 40 c).
ToHlonse see p. 70. — The train leaves the Gave. Matabiaii
and follows the Tarbcs line as far as (TVs M.) Porfet-St. Simon
(p. 115). — Beyond (8'/2 M-) Pinsac/uel. turning to the S., we cross
the Garonne, and ascend the valley of the Aritf/e. — Beyond (11 M.)
Pins-Justaret we cross the /vczc. — 14 M. Venerqne-le-Vernet ;
ITVaM. Miremonf; 21 M. Auterive, a town of 2981 inhab. ; 25 M.
Cintegabelle (2584 inhab.), with an interesting church with a 16th
rent, spire.
30 M. Saverdun, to the right, an old town of 3642 inhab. , and
one of the chief places in the county of Foix durins; the Middle
PAMIERS. //. Route 24. 165
-Ages, was tlie birthplace of Benedict XII. , the third of the Avig-
non popes (1334-1342).
Beyond Saverdun we cross the Ariege and passing (35 M.) Le
Vernet-d'Arieije reach —
40 M. Pamiers {Grand Soleil , Rue des Nobles; Cathala, Rue
Major), an industrial town of 11,944 inhab., on the Ariege, and the
seat of a bishopric.
Tlie town sprang up around an abbey and castle of the 12th cent,
whicli no bmger exists. Its founder, Roger II. of Foi.x , named it after
the Syrian city Apamea as a memorial of the First Crusade. It often
sull'ered from the chronic rivalry between the Counts of Foix, the abbots,
the bishops, and the townsfolk. In 1553 it was ravaged by the plague;
and in 1628, having become Protestant, it was taken and sacked by Conde
(Henry II. of France). The abbey had already (1586) been destroyed, like
many others, by the 'Casaques Noires' of the Sire d'Audon.
The Rue Ste. H^lene, beginning at the station , traverses the
entire town and passes through the market-place. From the latter,
the Rue Major leads, to the right, to the partly modern Romanesque
church of Not re-Dame-du- Camp, with a fortified brick fa5ade of
tlie 14th century. The church of Notre- Dame -des- Cordeliers.
farther to the N.E. , has a curiou.s small ruined tower. — The Rue
(ies Nobles, behind the market to the left, leads by a small vaulted
passage to the Cathedral, also largely rebuilt in modern times. It
has a Transition portal, concealed by a modern brick tower in the
Toulouse style, and other portions are in the Greco-Roman style of
the 17th century. The interior is decorated with modern mural
paintings by Benezet and Baduel. Behind the cathedral is the
modern brick Palais de Justice, and in front of it, to the right, are
the Seminary and the Bishop's Palace. The ascent in front leads
up to the C'asfellat, a promenade on the site of the old castle, with
;i fine view. — The iron of the Pamiers foundries enjoys a high
repute.
43 M. Verniolle; AQ M. Varilhes. The valley now contracts and
the line recrosses the Ariege. — Beyond (48'/2 M.) St. Jean-de-
Verpes the scenery improves. To the right is a handsome modern
chateau. The Ariege is again crossed ; and the chateau of Foix
apppears, also on the right.
51 V2 M. Foix (Hotels: Eousse, Lacoste, near the bridge), a
town of 7369 inhab. , formerly the capital of the Counts of Foix
and now the chief town of the department of the Ariege, is ad-
mirably situated at the confluence of the Ariege and the Arget. It
is overlooked by its picturesque castle, but the town itself is badly
built and unimportant.
Foi.x during the Middle Ages had a certain importance, and was the
capital of the Counts of Foi.x, one of vvliom, Raymond (1188-1223), suc-
cessfully resisted Simon de Montfort's attack upon his castle during the
Albigensiau crusade. Having thrown oil' the suzerainty of the lords of
Toulouse, the Countship of Foi.x passed in 1229 under that of the kings
of France: but nevertheless, owing to the ditt'erences between Roger
Bernard III. and Philip the Bold, the countship was invaded in 1272 by
166 //. Route 24. TARASCON. Froni Toulouse
the latter, who only became master of the eastle on its becoming evi-
dent that he was determined to undermine the rock on which it stood.
The territory was afterwards united to Beam and annexed to France
under Henri IV.
The Castle, or rather what is left of it, is especially interesting
when viewed as a whole, and presents a very picturesque appearance
from a distance. It is situated on a rock, 180 ft. high, on the N.W.
of the town, and still retains two square towers, of different sizes,
dating in part from the 12th cent. , and one round tower , 136 ft.
high, forming an interesting specimen of 14th cent, architecture.
To enter the castle (gratuity) we skirt the rock to the right. The
buildings are now unoccupied and contain little or nothing of
interest; they were used last as a prison. In the lowest and oldest
of the towers , originally the keep , are a chamber once used by the
Inquisition , and some of its dungeons. The main tower affords a
fine view.
At the foot of the rock is St. Volusien, the principal church,
dating from the 12th cent., but with some older work. It has been
restored in recent years, and contains some fine altars and modern
paintings.
In 1882 a Statue of Lakanal, a member of the National Con •
vention of 1792, by Picault, was erected in the Promenade Vilotte,
on the other side of the town.
About 51/2 M. to the E., near the village of Herm, is the large Grotte
de VHerm, a bone-cavern interesting to geologists; there are also other
caves, see below.
The railway now passes under the bridge of Foix and ascends
the right bank of the Ariege. The best views are to the right. —
55 M. St. Paul-St. Antoine. Beyond a tunnel we command a view
of the gorge of the Ariege, spanned by an ancient fortified bridge.
Lofty and barren mountains now appear. — Shortly after (58 M.)
Mercus, the Ariege is crossed.
61 M. Tarascon (Hotels: Francal; Arnaud), a small though very
ancient industrial town , at the confluence of the Ariege and the Oriege.
Tarascon-le-Vieux, to the left of the road, is built round a pictur-
esque rock, surmounted by a Tower , now the only relic of a castle
destroyed in the 17th century. The iron-furnaces and foundries of
Tarascon are well-known.
About 3 M. to the N.W., on the St. Girons road, is Bedeillac, where
there are some interesting caves (see pp. 163, 167). Similar eaves abound in
the limestone mountains of this district, among others the Orotte du Pounchet,
in the Montague de fiabart , a short distance from Tarascon, beyond the
confluence of the Ariege and the Oriege; besides those mentioned below,
the cavern at the Roche de Mas (p. 16;i), etc.
From Tarascon to Vicdbssos (Montcalm and Pic d'Estax), 81/2 M. ;
diligence from the station, 1 fr. The road leads to the S., up the narrow
valley of the Oriege, or nf Vicdessos , which is flanked Iiy bare moun-
tains. — 21/2 M. Kiait.r, with the celebrated stalactite Clrntte de la Calhi^re,
in which are two small lakes. — 31/2 M. Caponlet, near the ruined Cha-
teau de Miglos. — 8V2 M. Vicdessos (116t. de la Renaissance) . a village to
the S.E. of which is the Moiitagne de Jlancie with the richest iron-mines
to Ax. USSAT-LES-BAINS. //. Route 14. 167
iu France. The ore yields 700/o of excellent iron. Visitors to the mines
proceed to the village of Sem^ about 2 M. from Vicdessos , and thence
ascend in about 1 hr. — From Vicdessos to Aulus, see p. 164.
ViciU'ssos is the point whence the Montcalm and the Pic d'Estax are
ascended in about 71/4 hrs. to the first summit, 8 hrs. to the second (guide
necessary). Part of the ascent may be made on horseback. We con-
tinue to ascend the Oriege valley, via (I/4 br.) Auzat, and the (3/4 br.)
large and fine Cascade rfe Sassi&s (on the riglit) , to (1 hr.) Jlfarc. There
ue enter the lateral valley on the right, making direct towards the
Montcalm, and a.scend steeply via the (2 hrs.) Cabanes de Pigeol (5590 ft.) to
the (1/3 hr.) Cabanes de Subra (6265 ft.),' beyond which the horses cannot pro-
ceed. Thence a climb of 2 hrs., toilsome at first , brings us to the crest
(9335 ft.) between the valleys of Subra and Rioufred; and in 3/4 br. more
we reacti tlie top of the Montcalm (10,105 ft.), which repays us with a
glorious view extending W. to the snowy peaks beyond Luchon and E.
to the Canigou. On the S. the view is partly blocked by the Pic d'Estax
or Pique dEstais (10,300 ft.), whose summit may be gained in less than
'/4 hr. from the Montcalm.
The railway recrosses the Ariege, and continues to ascend its
\ alley.
63 M. Ussat - les - Bains. — Hotels. Gr.-H6t. des Baiks et du
PARC, on tlie right bank, near the chief Bath Estab. ; 6r.-H6t. Chau-
MouT, farther to the right; Ca.ssaone Fils, Me>:ville, beyond the Estab-
lishment; Hot. db France, 7 fr. per day; Bcsc , de la Renaissance, on
the left bank, nearer the station. — Furnislied Apartments. — 'Sa.ths, 70 c.-
11/2 fr. ; douches, 60 c.-l fr. — Small Casino Ijeside the Hotel des Bains,
and Caf( close by. — Telegraph Office in the season.
lI»sat-le»-Bains (i^^Q it.) , which takes its name from Ussat-
le-Vieu.r, the neighbouring village on the right bank of the Ariege,
is a hamlet widely known on account of its abundant thermal
springs (bicarb, of lime) , supplied by a subterranean lake sit-
uated below the rocks which border the valley. These waters,
which are almost solely used for baths and douches, are extremely
soothing and efficacious in certain female and nervous complaints.
Their temperature varies from 103° to 89.6° Fahr. , according to the
distance of the bathing -places from the outflow. The principal
Efablisseinent Thermal is situated on the left bank of the Ariege,
beyond a small park, which forms the only promenade of the place.
The Thermes Ste. Germnine, and the Bnin.t St. Vincent (closed for
several years) are on the right bank.
About 11/2 M. from I'ssat is the Grotte de Lombrive, one of the most
interesting caverns in the district, the mouth of wliich may be seen on
the hill on tlie left bank, opposite the station. Intending visitors apply
at the ground-lloor of the lodging-house Pujo ; adm. 5 fr. each, bargain
for a party. The cavern consists of a series of chambers on difl'erent
levels, connected by narrow passages. It contains stalactites, bone- de-
posits, and a small pool, and it may be followed for nearly 3 M. into
the heart of the mountain, which also contains other caverns possibly
communicating with the Orotte de Lombrive. Several Albigenses who
had taken refuge in this cavern were buried alive by the troops of the
nquisition who biiilt up the entrance.
The valley now expands a little. At (67V2 M.) Les C'abannes is
a chateau on a hill to the right, and at the head of a little valley rises
the Pic de Riez (8495 ft.). We cross a bridge, traverse a short tunnel,
and again cross a bridge. To the left are the Pic St. Barthelomy
168 //. Route 24. AX. Froin Toulouse
(see below), and, on a cliff, the picturesque ruins of the Chdteav
de Lordat, which was in existence as early as the 10th century. —
71 '/a M. Luzenac-Oaranou.
77 M. Ax. — Hotels, BoYEK, Rue de la Gare ; Sicee, at the Estab-
lishment of the same name; Boudkaux, iu the town, very plain. —
Maison MeKbUe Tardieu , Place du Couloiibret. — Numerous Furnished
Apartments. — Caf^s, Place du Couloubret. — Baths, 80c.-lfr. 25 c. ;
douches, 40 c.-l fr. 25 c. — Glass of the water, 5 c.
Ax (2350 ft.), an ancient and ill-huilt town with 1813 inhab., is
well-situated at the confluence of three streams. The warm sulphur
springs, for which it is noted, were known to the Romans, as is in-
dicated by the name of the town , derived from Aquae. Ax has
no fewer than 61 springs, which vary in temperature (63° -171"
Fahr.), mineral constituents, and medicinal uses, like those of
Luchon and Cauterets. The opening of the railway and the quiet-
ness of the place as compared with the fashionable life at other
spas, have largely contributed to the prosperity of Ax. The waters
are used both for drinking and for bathing, and are specially effi-
cacious in rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and catarrhs ; while
they are also used for domestic purposes. The springs are so nu-
merous and so thickly strewn that it has been conjectured that the
town is built, like Carlsbad in Germany, above a natural reservoir
of thermal mineral water. There are four bath establishments in
the town, each fed by a different group of springs; viz. the Cou-
loubret, to the left, at the end of the square of the same name,
reached directly via the street ascending from the station; the
Etdblissement Thermal Modele, on the bank of the stream skirting
the right side of the same square; the Breilli, a little farther on, in
a square of the same name, in the shady court of the Hotel Sicre;
and the Teich, on the other side of the town, reached by the Rue
du Coustou. Behind the Teich is a pretty park , and higher up are
the ruins of a castle, on which a statue of the Virgin has been
erected. — The Hospital, in the Place Breilh, was founded for
leprous soldiers by St. Louis in 1260. The neighbouring Church
is dedicated to St. Udant, 'conqueror of Attila and martyred at Ax
in 452'. — The temperature of Ax is very variable, and the even-
ings are generally cool. The neighbouring hills command fine
views.
Excursions, — The Pic St. Barthelemy may be ascended in about
51/2 hrs. (with guide) from tlie small village of Lassiir (to which we
may drive), about'V4 M- beyond the station of Luzenac (see above). The ex-
cursion is interesting and easy. We cross the Ariege at Lassur and ascend
to the N.E., via (I hr.) Lordat (see above), to the (3 hrs.) Col de la Peyre
(5680 ft.), which, however, we (io not cross, but bear to the W. and pas.s
to the left of the {^/i\\v.) lac Tort. Then skirting the I'ic de Soularac
(7685 ft.), we descend to (I/4 hr.) a little cid , and finally ascend once
more to the (1/2 It.) summit of the Pic St. Barth61emy (7705 ft.), which
allords a famous'view, from tiie Pic du Jlidi to flic Canigou and from tlie
mountains of Andorra to the plains of Touloiise.
To QuiLLAN (p. 171), to tlie N.E., an easy and interesting excursion
occupying one day. The route leads via the (3 hrs.) Col d^El Pradel
to Ax. ANDORRA. //. noute 24. 1G9
fabout 5400 ft.) and the Valli'-e ilii liehenty, in wliicli the scenery is re-
markably picturesque as I'ar as Joueoii, about 4 hrs. from the col. —
The ascent of the Puy de Carlitte (95SO ft.; with guide), to the S.E., may
l)e made via the Lac Lanoux (see below) in 2 days from Ax (1 day from
L'Hospitalet) : but it is more conveniently undertaken from Les Escaldas
(9 hrs. from Ax; see p. 140).
To Andorra (Andorre) via the Port de Saldeu, the shortest and
easiest route, about 12 hrs. Carriages can go as far as (4 hrs.) L'Hos-
pitalet, where it is well to sleep, and the road is practicable for horses
for the rest of the way. A guide, not necessary in line weather, may
be useful as an interpreter. The charge is 10 fr. a day for horse and
man from L'Hospitalet in addition to food for both. The road leaves
the valley ot the Oriege to the left, and ascends to the S. in the narrow
and rockv vallev of the Ariege. — 5 M. J/c're/i.?, with little -used warm
springs (93° to 154" Fahr. : sufphur). — 8I/2 31. SailleHs , with a cold sul-
|)hur spring. — 101 -i 31. L'Hospitalet (4630 ft.; Inii) lies at the point of
divergence of the Andorra road. — To make the ascent of the Puy <ie
Carlitte (see above) we return towards Ax as far as the bridge near
Saillens and then ascend to the E. to the (3i/... hrs.) Col de Besines (7710 ft.),
on the N.E. of the Pica Pklrotix (9290 ft.). From the col we descend in
about 1 hr. to the Lac Lanoux (7065 ft.; lishermen's hut), the largest lake
in the Pvrenees (about 270 acres), and thence reach the summit of the
mountain (p. 179) in 2V/:. hrs.
From 1/Hospitalet the Ro.vd continues to the S.E. in the direction
of (16i/-> 31) Puycerda. making at first a detour of 31/2 31- , which ped-
estrians" may avoid. It then crosses the (IV4 I""-) Col de Puymoiens
(6335 ft.) to (11/4 hr.) Porte, another starting-point for the ascent of the
Puy de Carlitte (1 day) via the Lac Lanoux, and (l/o hr. more) Porta
(Inn), from which the Pic de Campcardos (9560ft.; line view) may be
ascended in 41/0 hrs. (7 hrs. there and back).
The Andorra Route continues for some time to ascend the Ariege
valley, and in less than 1/2 hr. crosses a brook on the frontier and turns
til the \V. where it is intficated by a kind of landmarks. After 1 hr.
more a path via the Port de Framiquel (about 8200 ft.), also leading to
.•\ndorra but 1 hr. longer, diverges to the left from our route. About
2 hrs. beyond we gain the Port de Saldeu (8200 ft.), which alVords only a
limited and monotonous view, and we tlien descend via (1 hr. 20min.)
Saldeu (Inn), (1 hr. 20min.) Canillo , the Meritzell Chapel (a resort of pil-
grims), a (1 hr.) defile commanded by the remains of a fort, and (i/o hr.)
Lea Escaldas, with warm sulphur springs, situated in a valley planted
with olives and tobacco. Thence .Vndorra is reached in i/.> hr. more.
Andorra (3450 ft.; Calounea's Inn, tolerable), a village of 700-800 inhali.,
is of importance only as the chief place of the little republic of that name.
It is well situated at the foot of the Anclar and above a small and fertile
plain, but it is ill-built and, beyond the primitive manners of its in-
habitants and the organization of its petty government, the only object
of interest is the modest Palais, with three irregular windows in the
facade, and a lower pierced with loopholes. The meetings oftheConseil
General are held in this building, and the members and their steeds are
lodged in it. It also serves as the Palais de Justice, the Hotel de Ville,
the school, and the gaol. The C(mncil Chamber, an unadorned apartment,
surrounded with oak benches, and the kitchen, with a huge fireplace,
should be visited.
Andorra is a little independent Republic lying amidst the moun-
tains between the territories of France and Spain. In no direction does
it measure more than 18 JI. across and its total population is less than
lO.OClO. Tradition asserts that Charlemagne granted independence to the
Val d'Andorre in return for assistance lent him in his wars with the
31oors. It is certain that the little stale was from 1278 to 1793 under
the joint rule of the Bishops of Urgel (in Spain) and the Counts of
Foi.\ (and their successors the Kings of France), while since the French
Revolution it has been almost wholly independent of its two suzerains.
170 //. Eovie 25. ALET.
— The government is vested in a council of 24 members, 4 for each of
the 6 parishes comprized within its territory, who appoint a Syndic Pro-
eurenr Gdndral , a President, and two coadjutor syndics. The French
government and the bishop of Urgel , on their part , each nominate a
viguier or provost, the former for life, the latter for 3 years, and the
Spanish government appoints a viceroy. The executive authority is
wielded by the viguiers, subject to the usages and customs of the
country. — Life is still patriarchal among the Andorrans; the law of
primogeniture prevails; every man is a soldier at his own charges; taxes
are levied on an income-tax basis; public education is free. The people
devote themselves to cattle-rearing, but still more to smuggling.
25. From Carcassonne to Q,uillan.
Upper Valley of the Aude. Valley of the Rebenty.
34 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 75, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 70 c).
Carcassonne, see p. 80. The line ascends the valley of the Aude
and crosses the river between {4V2 M.) Madame and (G'^M.) Covf-
fonlens-Lettc. From (8 M.) Verzeille a diligence ('/j fr.) plies to
(3 M.) St. Hilaire, where there are the remains of a famons abbey,
with a church of the 13th cent, containing the tomb of 8t. Hilary,
with bas-reliefs of the 11th century. The cloisters date from the
14th cent.; the abbot's house is adorned with paintings, etc. —
Beyond (IOV2 M.) Pomas we cross the Aube for the second time
and beyond (13 M.) Ce'pie for the third time. Before the last bridge
the shrine of Notre-Dame-de-Marceille (see below) comes into view
on the left.
16^/2 M. Limoux (Huf. dn Commerce), an industrial town with
6810inhab. , on the Aude, is surrounded by vine-clad hills, which
produce a white wine of good quality. The vineyards unhappily
have not escaped the ravages of the phylloxera. A little to the N.
is Notre-Dame-de- MarceiU e , a pilgrim-resort of considerable local
repute, with a black marble statue of the Virgin and a fine altar-
screen, etc. Fine view of the valley and the mountains.
Beyond Limoux the valley contracts, and the line passes through
four short tunnels and crosses the Aude for the last time.
22 M. Alet {Etablissement Thermal, moderate), a decayed
town, called Eletca by the Itomans, who made use of its mineral
waters. It was a place of some importajice <luring the Middle
Ages when it possessed a Benedictine Abbey and was the seat of
a bishopric. Its Cathedral, founded in 873 and rebuilt in 1018,
is now in ruins, but the pentagonal apse, the most interesting
part, is standing. This is adorned on the outside by four large
columns iu the Corinthian style and an elaborate cornice. — The
Etablissement Thermal possesses two warm springs (bicarbonate
<tf lime; aperient; 68° and 82° Fahr.) and a cold chalybeate spring.'
There are gardens and a well shaded promenade on the bank of
the Aude.
Two more tunnels are passed. — 27 M. Coviza-Monlazeh.
OUILLAN. //. Route 2.1. 171
From Couiza- Jliintazels a diligence (IV4 fr-) plies daily in summer
to the village of Rennes-les-Bains (Bain Fort; Reine), 6I/0 M. to tlve S.E.,
with five mineral springs (chalybeate and saline), known to Itae Romans.
There are three bath-establishments, the Bain Fort, Bain de la Reine, and
BainDotix. The environs are interesting. Kennes is the starting-point tor
the ascent of the Vech de Buyavach (4040 ft.; 4Ur8. ; extensive viewj , via
(4Va *!• I Buyaracli.
28 M. Espernza. — 3OV2 M. Campagne-sur-Aude possesses a
batli-establishmeiit with two mineral springs (76" and 82° Fahr.).
34 M. Quillan (Hot. des Fyrmces) , an industrial town of
2463 inhab., on the Aude, with the ruins of a castle, is the centre
of an important forest district. A statue of the Abbe Armand
commemorates his services in procuring the construction of the road
in the upper 7\nde valley. About ^/^ M. to the W. is the Etablisse-
ment Thermal of (ihioles with three springs.
The railway is being extended up the Aude valley to Axat (see below),
where it is to turn to the E., in order to descend the Agly valley to join
the Perpignan line at Rivesaltes (p. 173).
.\n interesting excursion, 7 hrs. there and back (carriage-road), may
be made to the S.E. to the flne Foret des Fanges (lirs; 27(X) acres). One
road, leading about IV4 W. to the N. of t^uillan, skirts the heights (3150 ft.)
occupied by the forest. We quit this road at the (9 M.) Col de St. Louis
(2250 ft.), to the S.W. of the Peeh de Bugaraeh (see above), and return
through the forest by a road which descends in zigzags into the valley
of the Aude near Axat, and thence through the Pierre Lis delile (see
below) back to Quillan.
The *Upper Valley of the Aude is extremely beautiful from Belvianes
(about 21/:; M. above Qiiillaii) to beyond the jiaths of Careanieres and
Escouloubre, 20 JI. higher up. Every one should at least visit the lower
half of this section , as far as the upper end of the St. Georges defile,
4 hrs. from Quillan. There is a good road, on which a diligence plies
in the season from Quillan (starting at 9 a. m.) to Escouloiibre (fare 5 fr.).
Beyond IJelvianes begins the * Pierre Lis Defile, nearly li/.i M. long, and
fianked by sheer rocks, some hundreds of feet in height. "For more than
300 yards the road is carried through a tunnel, known as the Trou du
Cure, at the other end of which is Si. Martin-de-Taissac. The picturesque
valley of the l{el)enty (see below) is 1/2 hr. to the right of St. Martin,
while 1/2 br. beyond it and 71/3 M. from" Quillan, is the village of Axat
(II6t. Labat; Roche), l)efore which the road to (45 M.) Perpignan diverges
to the left. We next reach the *St. Oeonjes Defile, another fine part of
the valley. Leaving, on our left, the old road to Escouloubre and Car-
eanieres via Ste. Colombe into the Aiguette Valley (also picturesque and
wild in parts), we arrive at Gesse (2 hrs. from Axat), where there is an
inn. The valley now forms a rapid succession of defiles shut in by
wooded heiglits. About I3/4 hr. from Gesse is i^OH«a«es ; 1/., hr. farther
the farm oi La Farrjue; and 1/4 hr. farther, beyond the rui"ned Chateau
d'Usson, the Bains d" Usson , with three cold sulphur springs. The roiite
is throughout exceedingly fine. After passing the small thermal establish-
ment of La Garrifjue, another :V4 hr. brings us to the Bains de Carca-
niftres, which are supplied by 13 springs (8.5° -138° Fahr.). The waters
are used both for bathing and drinking and the two Etablissemeuts are
much frequented by the inhabitants of the surrounding districts. On the
o_pposite (right) bank of the Aude are the Bains d'Escouloubre with two
Etablissemeuts and 4 springs (85° to 113° Fahr.) of the same kind. The
establishments and the few houses connected with them have only with
<lifficulty found standing-room on the bank of the torrent and upon the
neighbouring rocks.
Farther up the Aude valley is (2l/.j hrs.) /'ocmtV/Mrj'*.? (4855 ft.; Hotel)
and still farther the col known as La QuiUane (5645 ft.) via which ^font-,
liuiis (p. 178) may 1,,. reached in 5 hrs. from the baths of Careanieres. —
in II. L'oiite 2n. LA NOUVELLK. Eastern
A diligence plies to Fovmigueres from Prailes (p. 176), via (21 M.) Olette
(p. 178), in 41/-2-5 hrs. (fare 41/4 fr.).
The *Valley of the Rebenty, another highly picturesque valley, like-
wise presents a succession of wild ravines, connecting little basins partly
under cultivation and environed with wood. A new road traverses it
also, leading in 11 hrs. from Quillan to Ax (p. 168), via the Col d'El
Pradel (see below). The most interesting part, as far as Niort, about
6 hrs. from Quillan, should by all means be explored. The route for
the first 13/4 hr. is identical with the one described above and lead^
through the superb gorge of Pierre Lis. About l/o hr. short of Axat we
turn to the right, after having crossed the Rebenty. The first part of
the valley is wooded. About I1/2 hr. from the entrance is Marsa and
1 hr. farther Joiicoti and the *Joucou Defile, where the road rxins high
above the rocky bed of the impetuous torrent and goes through three
short tunnels. Beyond tliese on the right bank the waters have worn
the rocks into a kind of liuge colonnade. The stream and road now
wind round a projecting bhill' and, above a mill, enter the *Able Defile
vv'hich is even wilder than the previous one. About 1 hr. from Joueou
is Belfort, 1/4 hr. beyond which is the striking and magnificent Niort
Defile. The village of Niort (Inn), I3/4 hr. from Belfort, was formerly the
chief town of the Sault or Forets district. The upper part of the valley
is also interesting; it contains the hamlets of (i/.j hr.) J/f-'riaJ and (I/2 hr.
more) La Fajole. In 21/2 hrs. from the latter we reach the Col iVKl
Pradel (about 5400 ft.), whence we descend to Ax (p. 168).
26. The Eastern Pyrenees.
I. From Narbonne to Perpignan and Port-Bou (Barcelona).
Railway to (391/2 M.) Perpignan in 1-2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 85, 5 fr. 90,
4 fr. 30); from Perpignan to Port-Bou (26l/'i i^l- ; an interesting line) in
1-2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 35, 4 fr., 2 fr. 95 c), or to (130 M.) Barcelona in 7-10 hrs.
(fares 26 fr. 60, 20 fr., 13 fr. 60). Best views on the left.
Narbonne, see p. 82. The line is at first the same as that to
Carcassonne, skirting the left side of the town. Beyond (5 V2 M.)
Mandirac it keeps along t\ioRohi7ie Canal and passes betAveen
the Etang de Bages et de Sljean on the right, and the Etany
de Gruigsan on the left, the former 11 M. long by 2 to 4 wide,
the latter 8 M. long, with an average width of 2 M. , commun-
icating by two channels with the Mediterranean , which is now
visible for some distance. The hills on the right are the Corbieres
(p. 82). — 10 M. Site. Lucie.
13 M. LaNouvelle(//o/. >>7. Michel), a modem seaport town with
2445 inhab. , at the mouth of the Kobine canal and of the channel
from the Sijean lagoon. Its present importance is due to its commer-
cial relations with Algeria. There are sea-baths in the neighbour-
hood. Route to the Corbieres, see p. 82.
The railway now keeps close to the sea, skirting on the right
tlie Etang de la Palme, and crossing its mouth, called Orait de la
Franqui^ where tliere are sea-batlis.
20'/., M. Levcate. station for the large village of that name,
13/^ M. to the S.K. , nc&T Cape Lettcalc . so called from its white
rocks. — AVe next skirt on the left and tlieii cross the Elaug de
Pyrenees. PERPIGNAN. //. Bouie 26. 173
Lettcate or de Salces , about 9 M. long with an average width of
.5 M. (14,000 acres). - 22'/2 M. Fitou.
28'/2 ^- Salces, a town of 2375 iuhab., owes its name to two
salt-springs in the neighbourhood . It is an ancient stronghold, of
which the Castle (to the right) remains, built by Charles V. and
now used as a powder-magazine. Salces is within the ancient pro-
vince of Roussillon, and produces one of the most highly esteemed
white wines, known as Macabeu.
The line, now at a considerable distance from the sea, crosses a
wide and very fertile plain, where, near Perpignan, two or three an-
nual crops are grown by means of irrigation. Above the last off-
shoot of the Corbieres appear the imposing mass of the Canigou and
other Pyrenean heights. At Rivesaltes we cross the wide and often
dry bed of the Agly.
35 M. Rivesaltes . a town of 6235 inhab., famous for its Muscat
wine, is the junction for the new line from Carcassonne via Qiiillan
(p. 171).
39 Va M. Perpignan. Hotels. Gr.-Hot. uk Perpignan, Hot. de
France, Quai de la Prefecture ; du Petit-Paris, Place d'Armes, near the
cathedral, well spoken of, R. & D. 6 fr. ; Central, Place Arago ; de la
I.oGE, Place de la Loge , with a good restaurant , dej. 2 fr. 50 c. ; d'Oeient,
DU Louvre, both near tlie station. — Cafis, chiefly in the Place de la
I>oge. — Omnibus-tramway from the station to the town, 15 c. — Diligences
to Ame'lie-les-Bains, etc., see p. 179.
Perpiqnan , a town of 34,183 inhab. and formerly the capital of
Koussillon, is now the chief town of the department of the Pyrene'es
Orientates, the seat of a bishopric , and a fortress of the first class,
on the right bank of the Tef, a river almost dry in summer, 7 miles
from its mouth in the Mediterranean.
Its importance, now much diminished, dates from the 12th and still
more the 13th cent. , when it was the residence of the kings of Ma-
jorca. On the e.\tinction of the kingdom, Perpignan reverted to Ara-
gon, to which it had been ceded by its last count in 1172, and it remained
faithful to its new masters until the middle of the 17th century. Louis XI.
besieged it during his disputes with the king of Aragon in 1475, and only
obtained possession of it with difficulty. Francis 1. failed to capture it in
1542; but a century later, when the Spanish governor had violated its
privileges, Richelieu was called in to its assistance, and annexed it defi-
nitely to France. Owing, however, to its vicinity to and long dependence
on Spain, Perpignan still displays more of the Spanish character than
any other town on the frontier.
The town, which is about Va M. from the station, is divided into
two unequal parts by the Basse, a tributary of the Tet. The old
town, which lies on the farther side of the river and contains all
the objects of interest, is poorly built and consists of a perfect laby-
rinth of narrow streets which, however, are kept clean and are cool
in summer. We enter the town by a handsome square with a pro-
menade along the river, embellished with a bronze statue, by A. Mer-
cie, of the astronomer Fr. Arago (1786-1853, p. 175). Opposite is
the small modern Palais de Justice.
The Quai de la Prefecture, at the opposite end of the square,
174 II. Route 26. PERPIGNAN. Eastern
on the small tributary of the Tet, ends at the Casfillet, a small but
massive brick structure , with battlements and a cupola, built in
1319 by Sancho, the second king of Majorca, recently restored and
now used as a prison. At the side is the Porte Notre-Dame. The
Kue Loiiis-Blanc leads thence to the right to La Luge (Spanish,
'lonja', or market), originally constructed at the end of the 14th cent.,
and now occupied partly as the 'mairie' and partly as a cafe. The
exterior presents a singular mixture of the Gothic and Moorish styles,
while the arcades of the court are Romanesque.
Recrossing the Place de la Loge we continue straight on by the
Rue St. Jean, pass the Place d'Armes, and reach the Cathedeal op
St. Jean , at the extreme N.E. of the town. Its foundation dates
from the year 1324, in the reign of Sancho, but the E. end was
only finished at the end of the 15th cent, during the French occu-
pation, while the nave, not begun until the 16th cent., has remained
without a portal. There is nothing to be noticed in the exterior,
except the iron frame of the tower (18th cent.); but the interior is
remarkable for the bold proportions of its nave , 230 ft. long,
60 ft. wide , and 90 ft. high , and still more for the gorgeous deco-
ration of its altars in the Spanish taste. The *Reredos of the
high altar (1620) is of white marble with scenes from the life of
St. John , etc., by Soler of Barcelona. In the left transept is the
black and white marble tomb of Louis de Montmor (d. 1695) , the
first French bishop of Perpignan. A chapel opening from this tran-
sept to the left of the choir contains a curious altar-screen of painted
wood, dating from the 15th or 16th century. The stained-glass
wnidows, the organ-case, the paintings on the walls of the chapels,
and a Gothic chapel near the porch to the right, are worthy of notice.
In returning we follow the Rue Fond-Froide. to the left of the
Place d'Armes, then the Rue des Trois-Journ^es to the right, and
another small street to the left, and reach the Place de la Ite'piihllque,
the largest and finest open space in the town, ornamented with trees
and a white marble fountain, and used as a market for the excellent
fruit which is produced in the neighbourhood.
To the E. is the theatre, and the street called after it leads us to
the University, founded in 1349, which contains the civic Library
and the Museum (open Sun. and Thurs. from 1 p. m., or noon in
winter, to 5 p. m.). Visitors are also admitted on other days.
G round- J'loor. Paintings and sketches. First and Second Floors. Mu-
seum of Natural History ; photographs of the principal thermal establish-
ments in the Eastern Pyrenees and a few sculptures.
A little farther, to the S. of the town, is the Citadel, in which
little of interest remains (no admission without special permit). The
keep Is the ancient castle , entirely transformed , of the kings of
Majorca; the chapel, which is used as an arsenal, has retained its
Romanesque portal and Gothic arcades.
About 14 M. to the N.W. is tiie .small town, with some old fortifications,
ofEstagel (H6t. Gary), the home ol the Arago family. There is a statue.
Pyrenees. PORT- VENDRES. //. Route 26. 175
by Oliva, of Francois Arago, the astronomer, the best known of the seven
brothers (p. 173). Estagel is pleasantly situated on the right bank of the
Agly which separates the Corbieres from the Pyrenees. Route to the
Corbieres, see p. 82.
From Perpignan to Prades and Ptiycerda, etc. see p. 176: to AmUie-
les-Bains and La Preste, see p. 179.
The railway to Spain, leaving the line to Prades on the right,
passes under an aqueduct, constructed by the kings of Majorca, and
crosses the R^art. Beyond (45 M.) Corneilla we obtain a fine view
of Elne, to the left.
47V2 M. Elne (Hot. du Commerce) , a decayed and poorly-built
town of 3237 inhab., has remains of fortifications and a fine view.
Elne is the ancient Illiberis, an important city of the Sardones, under
the walls of which Hannibal encamped after crossing the Pyrenees (B. C.
218). It was named Helena by Constantine in memory of his mother, and
was the scene of the assassination of the emperor Constantius (A.D.350).
Elne was destroyed by the Moors in the Sth cent., by the Normans in
the 11th, and by the kings of France in the 13th and 15th centuries. The
bishopric was removed to Perpignan in 160'?.
The old Cathedral is a Romanesque building of the 12th cent.,
altered in the 14th and 15th. The plain battlemented fagade is
flanked by two square towers , that on the right being of stone,
of the latter half of the 12th cent., that on the left of modern brick.
On the N. side is a small *Clouter in white marble, of the 12th-
15th cent., containing some remarkable sculptures and inscriptions,
and three fine ancient sarcophagi. — Railway to C(?ret and diligence
thence to AmeJie-les-Bains, see p. 179.
The line crosses the Terh. — 49'/2 M- Palau-del-Vidre.
Beyond (53 M.) Argeles-sur-Mer, with 3300 inhab. , we again
approach the sea, in order to round the outliers of the Monts Alberes,
the E. extremity of the Pyrenees. The first tunnel is soon reached.
56 M. Collioure (Hot. Fontano) , the ancient Caiico Illiberis, a
small seaport with 3700 inliab. . is picturesquely situated. It pos-
sesses an old castle, while the Fort St. Elme on the S.E. side, the
chief remaining fortification . commands also Port-Vendre (see be-
low). Good Roussillon wine is grown here. Trade in cork, etc.
E.xcuRsiONs. To the S.W., to Noire-Dame-de-Consolaiion, by a shaded
valley , 3/^ hr. there and back ; to the W. to the Totir du Diable (Pic de
Taillefert), the view from which embraces the whole Gulf of Lions, 4 hrs.
(descent to Danyuls, 1 hr., see below); to the ruin.s of the, abbey of Val-
bontie, 5 hrs. ; to the cork-forest of La Maxsanjie, 6 hrs. with a guide.
We now traverse a second tunnel, 920 yds. long.
57 Va M. Port-Vendres (H6t. Durand), the Portus Veneris of the
Romans, a small town of 3000 inhab.. is important both as a com-
mercial and a military harbour, being one of the safest on the
.Mediterranean. Its extensive roadstead, with a depth of 40 ft., can
accommodate the largest vessels. There are sea-water baths. To
the S.E. (',2 M.) is the Cap Bear (665 ft.), with a first-class light-
house and a semaphore; fine view.
Steamers leave for Algiers twice a week. Passage 24-26 hrs.
176 //. Boute 26. PRADES. Eastern
Before reaching the next station three tunnels are passed through.
Between this point and the frontier fine glimpses of the Mediterra-
nean are obtained, though in spring and autumn it is liable to be
obscured by fog.
SO'/o M. Ban3nils-sur-Mer (Hut. Roussillonnais), with 4050 in-
hab., is noted for the best Koussillon wine. It is situated on a small
bay of the Mediterranean, with pleasant sea-water baths, and enjoys
a mild climate.
Excursions. To the X.W., to the Valley of Bantjuls, planted with orange
trees, 3hrs. there and back; to the Tom' du Diable (see p. 175), via the Vallon
de Cosperons , where the famous Vin de Rancio is produced, 4 hrs. , or
5 hrs. there and back, making use of the short-cuts in descending; to the
Col des Balistres, on the frontier (see below), a very pleasant walk , by a
mule-track, .4 hrs. there and back ; from the Col to the Pic Jouan, 2 hrs.
there and back.
We pass through a tunnel (^/^ M. long) between two fine bays
and reach (65 M.) Cerbere (Buffet), the last French station, on a
bay of the same name, 1 M. from Cap Cerbere, which has marked
from ancient times the frontier of France and Spain. The station
is on a lofty embankment supported by a wall with two tiers of
arches. We pass through a tunnel (1200 yds. long) under the Col
des Balistres (850 ft.), and enter Spanish territory.
66 M. Port-Bou (Buffet), where our line joins that to (104 M.)
Barcelona.
II. From Perpignan to Prades and Puycerda.
Moiitg. Le Vernet. The Canigou. Les Excaldas.
Railway to Prades, 251/2^., in I1/4-I3/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 75,
2 fr. 80 c.): thence carriage - road to (36 M.) Puycerda. Diligence from
Prades to (22 M.) Montlouis in 5 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 60 c); from
Prades to (9 M.) Olette in 21/2 brs. (fares 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60 c).
The line ascends the fertile valley of the Tet. — 5 M. Le Soler :
8M. St. Feliu-dWvnl: 8^4 M. St. FeUu-d'Amvnt: OV4 M. Millns.
with 2239 inhab.. formerly a fortified place.
14 M. Ille, with 3397 inhab., is situated in a plain noted for its
fruit. — I6V2 M. Buulefernere , with a ruined castle. The valley
contracts. — 20 M. Virifa, a small town, IV4M. to the N.W. of
which are the baths of that name, with thermal sulphur springs. —
22 M. Margtdxnne^.
25V'2 M. Prades (Hut. Javnary), a town of 3850 inhab.. in a tine
situation, witli an interesting church, etc., is the starting-point for
several important routes. The railway is to be continued to Olette
(p. 178). Superb view of the Canigou.
In the charmins; valley of the Taurinya, 2 M. to the S., are tlie ruins
of the powerful abliey of .Si J. ifichel-de-Cui.ta, founded in 878, with some
fine portions still remaining, including the Romanesque cloister-arcades
in pink marble, the Romanesque church with a Gothic choir, the marble
portal of the abbots' house with sculptures of the 11th cent., etc.
From Pkades to the Baths of Molitg, 5 M., diligence (1 fr.) during the
season. The road descends and crosses the Tet. 2 M. Cattlar, beyond
Pyrenees. OLETTE. //. Route 26. 17T
which we ascend ihe valley ui the Castellane, crossing the stream several
times. 5M. Baths of Molitg (1475 ft.; Thermal EstablUhments ; Marty, etc.).
in the narrow gorge of the Castellane, in which it has been difficult to
find room for the three thermal establishments. The latter are supplied
l)y 12 sulphur springs (TT^-lOO" Fahr.), which are used for drinking and
for bathing in the treatment of mucous and skin diseases, rheumatism, etc.
From Prades to Le Verket (Canigou), 71/2 M., with regular service of
carriages (1 fr. 25 c). As far as (4 SI.) Villefranche (see below) we follow
the road to Puycerda, then turn to the qigfa* into a narrow valley, descend- '
ing from the Canigou, which soon appears on the left. — 51/2 51- Cnrneilla-
ile-Con/lent , the Romanesque church of which possesses a fine white marble
porch, and a stone altar-screen of the 14th century.
71/2 M. Le Vernet or Vernet-Us- Bains. — Hotels; duParc; Ibrahim-Pacha;
lies Commandants: de la Prefecture; Afercader, attached to the establish-
ment-, Hotel des Pyrenees, etc. — Furnished Villas. — Baths 1-2 fr. Douches
50 c.-l fr. .50. Glass of Mineral Water 5 c. — Casino with theatre, etc.
Le Vernet (2035 ft.), famous for its thermal waters, is a beautifully
situated village on the N.W. end of a shoulder of the Canigou, on the
banks of the Casteill stream. The sulphur waters are supplied by 10
principal springs with a temperature varying from 46° to 136° Fahr.
They are used especially for aft'ections of the respiratory organs, the
climate being such as to allow invalids to remain during tJie winter.
The establishment is open all the year and includes the Nouveaux Thermes
on the left, and the Thermes Mercader on tlie right bank of the stream.
An interesting excursion (3/4 hr.) may be made to the S. via (1 31.)
Casteill to the ruins of the abbey of St. Martin-de-Canigou, where there is
a Byzantine church with monolithic white marble columns.
The Ascent of the Cakigou (10 hrs. there and back; guide, Michel
Nou or Carol of Le Vernet, 10 fr., advisable; horse 10 fr. ; provisions
must be taken) is best made from Le Vernet. Riding is practicable
to within 1 hr. of the summit. We proceed to Casteill (see above) and
continue by a valley to the right to the (1 hr.) Cascade Anglaise. As-
cending tlience to the (II/4 hr.) Col du Cheval-Mort, and leaving to the
right a path to Prats - de -MoUo (p. 180), we reach the (i, 4 hr.) Randaif
Hut and the (I/2 hr.) Serrat de Marialles pastures. We then descend into
the valley of a tributary of the Casteill, ascend to the (l/o hr.) Col Vert,
descend again into a ravine to reach the (I/2 hr.) Granges de Cadi, and
mount again to the (I/2 'ir) Plateau de Cadi (refuge -hut), the farthest
point to which horses can ascend. The last part of the ascent is by a
tiresome climb over debris, and through a fissure or chemine'e, in which
natural steps are formed by the schist. The Alpine Club lias supplied
a railing. The 'Canigou (9135 ft.), the top of which forms a platform,
26 ft. long by 10 ft. wide, with two huts, is the last of the high moun-
tains at the E. end of the Pyrenees. It forms a huge mass, the buttress-
es of which radiate to distances of 7 to 12 miles as the crow flies, and
form exceedingly steep aretes on the X. and X.E. sides of the summit.
The view is superb , embracing from the S.E. to the N.E. beyond the
Alberes and the Corbieres, the coast of the Mediterranean from Barce-
lona to Montpellier, 100 31. distant: to the X. the Corbieres, and the
jilain exteniling to the mountains of the Aveyron ; to the W. the moun-
tains of the Ariege : and to the S. those of Catalonia.
Beyond Prades tlie Puycerda road continues to ascend the valley
oftheTet, which gradually becomes narrower. — 26V2 M. (from
Perpigiian) I'in. with a ruined castle and a factory.
28 iM. Villefranche -de-Conflent (1425 ft.), a small town at the
confluence of the Tet and the stream descending from the valley
of Le Yernet (see above) , fortified on the plans of Vauban to com-
mand the valley of the Tet. which is here very narrow. The ex-
tensive caves which are used as casemates and magazines for the
Baedeker. Soiithern France. 12
178 II. Route 26. BOURG - MADAME. Eastern
citadel cannot be visited without special permission. The situation
is wild and picturesque.
The Tet is crossed. — 32 M. Serdmya ; 32V2 M. Joncet.
34 Va M. Olette (Hotel du Midi), a market-village, beyond which
there was until lately only a path with steps or 'graus' (Lat. gradus).
The road now passes through a tunnel and over a fine bridge. —
To the right is the road to Formigueres (p. 171).
About 2'/2 M. from Olette a path to the left descends to the
(V4 M.) baths of the Grau.^ dcs Canaveillei, supplied by 10 sulphur
springs {95''-130° Fahr.), similar to those described below. — 38 M.
Les Gratis d' Olette or Bains de Time's (about 2460 ft.), a modern
establishment with 42 copious sulphur springs , from 80° to 172°
Fahr. , the highest temperature of any waters of the kind. They
are chiefly employed in tlie treatment of rheumatism, neuralgia, and
diseases of the urinary organs.
We recross to the left bank shortly before reaching (39 M.) Thiies-
de-Llar. The valley continues to be shut in by high mountains.
On the right bank are the Gorges de Carenpa, rising to the Lake of
Carenfa (about 6 hrs. ; 7430 ft.), with some exceedingly picturesque
spots in the first two-thirds of the way.
42 M. Fontpe'drouse (3280 ft.). Considerable engineering work*
have been necessary for the continuation of the road, which makes
wide circuits and crosses two ravines by means of viaducts.
48 M. Montlouis (5250 m. ; Hotel de France), a small town but
important as a fortress on tlie plans of Vauban , situated upon a
plateau, the iS. side of which is steep, while the E. and N. sides are
perpendicular.
To the S.E. is (3 M.) Plants, where there is a very curious church,
perhaps of Arabic construction. It t'orms an equilateral triangle with a
semicircular apse on each side and a dome in the centre.
The road ascends for about 2'/2 M. more to the Col de la
Perche (5320 ft. ; Inn), which affords a fine view. We then descend
into the (3 M.) valley and then into the (2 M.) fertile plain of the
Cerdagne. — 55 M. Saillngouse (4295 ft. ; Inn), on the Segrc.
The ascent of the Fuigmal (954') ft. ; 7 hrs. up, 5 hrs. down), on the
frontier to the 8.E., may be made from Saillagouse without difficulty
(with guide). We asceiid via (8/4 hr.) Llo, the (23/4 hrs.) Cirque de la
Culasse, the (13/4 hr.) Gol de Llo (S395ft.), and (1 hr.) the Pic de Sigre
(9170 ft.). The view is extensive to the S. and towards the sea.
The route now leaves to the right a more interesting but badly
kept road, and traverses an isolated portion of Spanish territory,
about 4V2 sq. M. in area. In the latter is (3 M. from Saillagouse)
Llivia, a dirty village of ancient origin with some ruins remaining.
Our road passes (57 M.) Ste. Le'ocadie and (60 M.) Hir, and reaches —
61 M. Bourg- Madame (3740 ft.; Hotel du Commerce), a small
town at the confluence of the Segre and Raur, the last place on
French territory , with the custom-house. It is better to spend the
night here than at Puycerda. To Les Escaldas, see below.
Pyrenees. AMELIE-LES -BAINS. II. Route 26. 179
Gl'/aM. Puycerda (4075 ft.; Hot. Ayguabenita), with about 2000
inhab., was the ancient capital of the Cerdagne, and a Spanish for-
tress several times taken by the French. The church is curiously
decorated in the Spanish style. Custom-house.
From Boukg-Madame to Les Escaldas (I'uy de Carlitte), 4 M. ; during
the season carriages, 1 fr. per head. — Les Escaldas (Aguas caldas, or Hot-
Springs; 4430 ft.; Hotel at the Thermal Establishment) is a French hamlet
with 10 sulphur, chalybeate, and other springs (62° to 107° Fahr.), chiefly
frequented by Spaniards from the neighbouring districts. The establish-
ment is well managed, and is surrounded by shady walks in which there
are fine points of view.
PuY DB Carlitte. The ascent is best made from Les Escaldas (5hrs.;
81A> hrs. there and back) without difficulty, and for the greater part
of the way on mules. We ascend first to the N. , and then to the W.
to the pastures of the (i/a hr.) Coma Armada , and passing an irrigation
canal, reach (I1/4 hr.) a col to the left of the Casteilla (6850 ft.). We
then cross the Desert de Carlitte^ studded with ponds, and passing (II/4 hr.)
a hut, and (I/2 hr.) a spring, arrive in V-J br. more at ^the base of the
peak. The mules must be left at this point. A fatiguing climb of 1/2 hr.
now takes us to the Col de Carlitte (8530 ft.) and 20 min. more to the ex-
ceedingly narrow crest of the Puy de Carlitte (9580 ft.), the highest summit
of the Eastern Pyrenees. The view is magnificent, including the whole
of this pai't of the chain from the Central Pyrenees to the Mediterranean,
which, liowever, is not always visible, and from the plains of Langviedoc
to the most distant summits of Catalonia.
III. From Ferpignan to Am61ie-les-Bain8 and La Freste.
Railway to Ch-et, 231/2 M. in li/^ hr. (fares 4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 50, 2 fr. 60 c.) ;
thence to Amilie ■ les - Bains (41 /o M.) and Aries (7M.) diligence in 3/4 and
11/4 hr. (railway under construction).
From Perpignan to (8V2 M.) Elne see p. 175. The line diverges
to the right from that to Barcelona and ascends the valley of the
Tech. 13 M. BrouiUa : 15 M. BanyuU-del-A»j)res.
18 V2 M. Le Boulou (Hot. Lefevre), about 1 M. to the S. of which
are the Batlix aj Lr Bouluu , with several chalybeate and other
springs, chiefly employed for diseases of the liver.
The road 10 the Baths is continued into Spain via the Col dii Perthus
(950 ft.), commanded by the Fort de Bellegarde, on an isolated height, and
reaches the frontier of Spain in little more than 5 M. from the bifurcation.
The line crosses the Tech to (21 M.) f^t. Jean-Pla-de-Cors. On
the right is the interesting Pont de C'e'ret, an ancient bridge of bold
construction, with an arch of 150 ft. span, rising to the height of
over 90 ft. above the ordinary level of the water. Fine view of the
Canigou.
23'/2 M. C6ret (Hotel de France), the present terminus of the
railway, is an ancient town with 3818 inhab. noted for its fruit,
with some remains of fortifications.
The valley contracts and takes the name of Vallespir ('vallis
aspera'). On the left bank is seen (26 M.) Palalda, an ancient vil-
lage picturesquely placed on the slope of a hill. '.
28 M. Am6lie-les-Bain8 (910 ft.; Thermes; Kursaal; Martinet;
F arret , etc.; English Church Service in summer), formerly Arles-
tes-Bains, received its present name under Louis Philippe in honour
12*
180 II. Route 26. ARLES-SUR-TECH,
I
of Queen Am^lie. It is a prosperous town , finely situated at t.
confluence of the Tech and the Mondony, and at the foot of the Fort
les- Bains, constructed in the time of Louis XIV. There are 20 co-
pious sulphui-springs (68°- 145° Fahr.) , which have been in use
since the time of the Romans. Owing to the mildness of the climate
the baths , which are used mainly for affections of the lungs, are
open throughout the year and are considerably frequented even in j
winter. There are two public bath -establishments and a military
hospital, all well equipped.
The Thfrmes Romains still retain some parts of the ancient J
establishment, the 'lavacrum' being now the waiting-room. They are ;
connected with the hotel by a covered promenade, 100 yds. in length, '
contain assembly rooms, reading-rooms, and card -rooms, and ,
are adjoined by a Jardin Anglais'. The Therntes Pujade, the more i
important of the public establishments , with fine promenades . are ,
beautifully situated higher up at tlie mouth of a gorge, from which
the Mondony descends in a cascade, above a dam, called 'Hannibal's
Wall'. The Military Hospital can accommodate 500 patients, and
is the largest military thermal establishment in France.
aO'/a M. Aries -sur- Tech (907 ft.; Hutel), the Roman Arula, a
small town with a remarkable Romanesque Church and Cloisters in
the Transition style. The old Catalonian manners and customs, fetes
and public dances, are preserved here perhaps better than anywhere
else in this part of the French Pyrenees.
Beyond Aries the road to Corsari diverges to the right, skirt-
ing the Gorge de la Fou . a fissure in the limestone rock nearly
2 miles long, with its two sides, 1300 ft. in height, at the most only J
50 or 60 ft. apart, while the channel at the bottom, through which
the torrent dashes, is but 3 ft. wide. At 31 '2 M. a road leads to the
left into Spain via (10'/2 M.) St. Lanrent-de-Cerdans and (3 M.)
Coustovges (Custodia). The road to La Preste ascends a picturesque
defile. 371/2 M. Le Tech (Inn), picturesquely situated.
42 M. Prats-de-Mollo (2620 ft.; Hotel), a small walled town on
a mountain - slope commanded by its church ami the Fort de la
(iarde, constructed after plans by Vauban.
46 M. La Preste-les-Bains (3705 ft.; Thermal Establishmeiits)
lies partly on a plateau between the ravines of the Tech and the
Llabane. There are two establishments, open throughout the year,
with abundant sulphur springs (113° Fahr.), which have been long
known and are used especially for calcnhis. There are beautiful
shady walks in the neighbourhood.
ISl
ait
III. SOUTH EASTERN FRANCE AS FAR AS THE
RHONE, AND AUVERGNE.
27. From Dijon (Paris) to Lyons 182
Abbaye de Citeaux , 182. — From Chagiiy to Ro-
anne, 183. — From Chalon-sur-Saone to bole: to
Boursj: to Lons-le-Saunier; to C'luuv, 184, 185. —
He de la Palme, 186. — Beaujeii. 187.
28. From Macon (Paris) to Geneva . . ' 188
a. Via Bourg, Amberieu, and Culoz (Aix-les-Bains,
Chambery) 188
From Bourg to Lyons, 189.
h. Via Bourg and Nantua 190
From La Chise to St. Claude. 190. — Mont.s d'Ain,
191.
29. From Nevers (Paris) to Lyons 192
a. Via Roanne and Tarare 192
From Jlouliiis to Montlucon; to Villefranehe; to
Macon, 193, 194. — From Varennes-sur-AUier to
Be'zenet , 195. — Sail-les-Bain.s . St. Alban. From
St. Victor-Thizy to Cours, 196.
h. Via Roaime and St. Ktienne. Ligne d'Annonay 197
From St. Just-sur-Loire to St. Ramhert d'Albon,
197.
30. From Nevers (Paris) to Vichy and Thiers (St.
Etienne) 199
E.xcursions from Vichy, 202.
31. From Nevers (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand and Le
Pay 204
Chatelguyou, 204.
32. From Orleans (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand viaBonrges 20G
From Bourges to Dun-sur-Auron, 209.
33. Lyons 210
Environs of Lvons. From Lyons to Montbrisnn;
to Trevonx; "to St. Genix-d'Aoste, 223, 224.
34. From Lyons to Bordeaux 224
(/. Via Roanne, Montlucon, and Limoges . . . 224
Noris. From Montlucon toEygurande-Merlines, 225.
— From Bussea\i d'Ahun to Felletiu. From
Vieilleville to Bo\irganeuf, 226.
b. Via St. Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, and Tulle.
Auvergne 226
I. From Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand .... 226
From St. Etienne to Rochetaillee, to the Gowffre
d'Enfer, and to Mont-Pilat, 228. — From Bon-
son to St. Bonnet-le-Chateau, 229. — Puy de
Montoncel. From Pont-de-Dore to Ambert.
From Vertai/.on to Billom, 230. — From Cler-
mont-Ferrand to Royat, 235. — To the Puy de
Dome, 236. — To the Mont Roguon and to the
Plateau de Gergovie, 239.
182 ///. Rtmle 27. BEAUNE. From Dijon
II. From Clermont-Ferrand to Tulle. Northern
Auvergne 240
From Laqueville to the Mont Dore, 240. — From
the Mont Dore to the Puv de Sancv, 242. — To
the Capuein, 243. — To La Bourboule, 244. —
To Murols and to St. Neetaire, 245. — From
Eygurande to Largnac and to Mauriac, 246.
III. From Tulle to Bordeaux via P^rigueux . . 247
35. From Lyons to Tovilouse via Le Pay and Aurillac.
Southern Auvergne 247
From Le Puy to Espaly, Polignae, and the Chaise-
Dieu , 251. — To the Mezenc via Le Monastier,
252. — Plomb du Cantal, 253.
27. From Dijon (Paris) to Lyons.
122 M. Kailway in 31/4 " ^^'4 lirs. to the Gare de Perrache (p. 2101;
fares 24 Ir. 35, 18 fr. 30, 13 IV. 45 c. Best views to the left.
Dijon, see Baedeker's Northern France. — The railway crosses
the Ouche and the Canal de Bourgogne, and skirts to tlie right the
hills of the C'ote-d'Or, so called on account of the excellent wine
grown there. — To the left, beyond some large railway -work-
shops, diverges the line to St. Amour (see Baedeker's Northern
France). — 7 M. Gerrey, the station for the celebrated wine-district
of C'hambertin. — lO'/aM. Vouc/eot, well-known to connoisseurs as
having given its name to the famous Clos-Voiigeot.
i3V2 M. Nuits-sous-Beaune, a small town with an extensive
commerce in the wines of the surrounding district. On Dec. 18th.
1870, a contest took place here between the Germans under Yon
Gliimer and the French under Cremer, which resulted, after a severe
struggle, in the defeat of the latter. A monument in commemoration
of the battle was erected here in 1885.
About 7 M. to the E. is the ancient and celebrated Abbaye (It Citeaux,
founded in 1098 and rebuilt in the ISth century. It is now used as an
agricultural reformatory.
17 M. C'orgoloin; 20 M. Serrigny.
23 M. Beaune (Buffet; Hotel de France; dii Chevreuil). an
ancient town, with 12.146 inhab., on the Houzoise, is the centre
of an extensive commerce in ail kinds of Burgundy wine. Its most
noteworthy buildings are the collegiate cininh of N'otre-Dame and
the hospital. — Notre- Dame, founded in the 12th cent., has fre-
quently been restored and altered since. The finest part is the
grand portal of the 13th cent, with a magnificent porch. A tower
rises above the crossing. The church possesses some valuable ta-
pestry of the 15th century. The chateau-like Hospital was found-
ed in 1443 by Nic Uobiji, chamellor of Burgundy, who bequcatlie<l
to it a superb *Altarpicce by Kogier van der Weydcii, the primiiial
to Lyons. LE CREUSOT, ///. Route. 27. 183
subject of which is the Last Judgment. — Of the old rastlc only
two Towers are left, and the ancient Hotel de Ville is represented
by its picturesque 15th cent. Tower. Hard by is a fine bronze
Statue of Moiifie. the matliematician and natural philosopher, a
native of Beaune (d. 1818), by Rude. The present Hotel de Ville,
formerly a convent, contains a Ptiblic Library, the Municipal
Archives, a Gallery of Natural History, and a small Museum, the
latter comprising paintings, antiquities, and curiosities of various
kinds. — The Buttes. the Jardin Anglais, and the Rempart des
Dames are fine promenades. — About 2M. to the S.W. is Fommard,
and 1 M. farther Volnay. both producing 'Burgundy' of the best
quality.
27 M. Mairsaulf, noted for its white wines. Farther on . to the
right, is Puligny, where Montrachet wine is produced.
32^ 2 M. Chagny (Buffet), a commercial town with 4544inhab.,
anil a station upon several railways, is situated between the Dheune
and the Canal du Centre (see below).
About 7 M. to tlip W. are the imposing ruins of the Chateau de la
liochepot (13th cent.), ahove tlie village of Kocltepot, the church of which
contains the tombs of the ancient seigneurs.
From Chagny to Xtveis, see Baedeker's Northern France.
Fr.oM Chagny to Roanne (Le C'reusot), 86V-' 31., railwav in 5i/.>-7i/,4 hrs.
(fares 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 95, 9 fr. 40 c). — At (21/2 M.) fiantenay the Autun
line diverges to the right. Our line ascends the, left bank of the Dheune,
on tlie oppc)site side of which runs the Canal du Centre. We pass several
industrial localities, stone quarries, coal and iron mines, ponds, etc. —
18 M. Montchanin (BulVet), a market-town of 4856 inhab. . with extensive
coal-mines and various industrial establishments. [From Montchanin a
line runs to (83i/._> M.) Nevers via (5 JI.) Le Creusot (llOtel Rodrigue), a
tlourishiug town with 27,300 inhab., which owes most of its prosperity to
*Schneuler'f Jvonworks, the most important in France and among the first in
Europe. This huge establishment coversover 1000 acres, employs 15,500hands,
and in 1886-87 produced 715,000 tons of coal from its own mines, 190,000 tons
of cast iron, 160,000 tons of iron and steel , besides 100 locomotives , and
an immense quantity of iron manufactures, including bridges, boats, ma-
chinery, and cannon. For farther particulars, see Baedeker's Northern France.]
The Koanne line next enters the industrial valley of the Jiourbince,
where it again meets the Canal du Centre. Coal and iron mines, stone-
quarries, etc.. are numerous.
24 M. Blanzy f4:S00 inhab.) : 2?i '2 ^I- ifoiitceaii -les- Mines, a town of
15,313 inhab., with ccial- mines and various factories: 39 JI. I'alinges
(2260 inhab.). — 38 1/.^ JI. La (iraroine, near which was the Celtic-Roman
villa of Coloniu.
49 jr. I'aray-le-ifonial (p. 194). -- Then, alter following the Jloulins
line (p. 194) for a sliort distance to the W. , we, turn to the S. into the
vallev of the Loire, on the left bank of which is the lioanne and Digoin
Canal 641/^ 31. ilarcigny (2783 inhab.). — From (74l/'j JI) Ponilly-sous-
Charlieu a diligence plies to Charlieu (3 JI. ; 50 c.), a town of .53.50 inhab.,
originating in an ancient Benedictine .\bbey of which the chief feature.
1 laining is the very beaulilul church - porch in the Romanesque-Kur-
yunilian stvle. — Bevond (821/" JI-) Le i'nteaii (p. 190) we cross the Loire.
S6I/.J J(. noanne (p. 196).
The Lyons line next passes through two short tunnels, the first
under the Canal du Centre; then by a deep cutting it enters the
valley of the Thalie and reaches (36 M.) Fontaines.
184 111. Route '27. CHALO>;-SUIl-SAOKE. From Dijun
42 M. Chaion-SUr-Saone. — Hotels. Grahd-Hotbi,. IIur.Dv Chevreuil,
both in the Rue dii Port-Villieis, near the Saone. — There are three Stations :
Chdlon-St. CCime, at which alune the express trains stop, to tlie S. of tlie
town; Oidlon -Ville^ nearly in the centre of the town, where the ordinary
trains stop; and Hi. Come (near the first-named), for Bourg (see below).
Chdion-sur- Saune is an old commercial and manufacturing
town of 22,768 inhab., on the right bank of the Saone, at the mouth
of the Canal du Centre , which connects this river Avith the Loire
at Digoin (74 M. ; p. 194). It has few noteworthy buildings.
Quitting the principal station we find on the left a square con-
taining an Obelisli of the 17th cent., the Palais de Justice, and the
Corn Market, two modern buildings. In front of the Palais is
a square with a pretty Fountain, lately erected to the memory
of the Thevenin family, who presented the town with its water
supply. The Grande Hue, to the right, descends to the old Pont
St. Laurent and to an island in the Saone. on which is a large
Hospital, founded in the 16th cent, and lately rebuilt. — Not far
from the bridge, to the left, is the Church of St. Vincent, an an-
cient cathedral built in the 12- 15th centuries. It has a modern
facade with two towers. The most interesting parts are the choir
and apse, dating from the 13th century. ~ Below the bridge is a
small harbour from which the steamers start for Lyons (see below).
— Not far from this point, in the square of the same name, is the
Church of St. Peter, of the 18th century. Nearly opposite is the
Museum, containing various collections of little importance. More
to the S. is the basin of the Canal du Centre, and on the other side
the suburb of St. Come, with the Church of St. Come, built between
1855 and 1867 in the Gothic style of the 13th century. It has a
nave and aisles, with galleries over the latter. Behind the church,
to the right, is the St. Come station.
Steamboats for Lyons run regularly on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. (about
6 hrs.; 5 and 4 fr.). The voyage is uninteresting until beyond Macon.
From Chalon to Dole, 49 31., railway in 41/2 l»s- (fares 12 fr. 75. 9 fr. 20,
6 fr. 75 c). — Shortly before (15 SI.) Verdtm-sttr-le-Donbs, at the confluence
of the Doubs and Saone, we cross the latter. — 21 Jl. <S7. lionnet-en-Bresse,
a station on the line from Dijon to St. Amour (see JSaedeker'.^ Northern
France). — 26 M. Pierre, with a chilteau of IGiSO. — 38 W. Chatisain, with some
ancient l>uildings. — Hefore (43 M.) Taraiix we cross the Khine-Rhone
Canal and beyond the .station the Doubs. - 49 M. Dole (see Baedeker's
Northern France).
From Chalon t.) Hoi ik;. 48 M., railway in 3-4 hr.'<. (fares 9 fr. CO, 7 fr. 20.
5 fr. 25 c). — Tltis line lurn.s to the E. and crosses the Saone. — 3 M,
St. Marcel, once the seat of a famous abbey, the buildings of wliich are
now represented only by the line Transition church, rebuilt in the 12th
century. — 10 Jl. \St. (Urmain-dii-Plain , (he Junction for Lons-le-Saunier
(see below). -■ 2(1 Al. Ciii^erii, with remains of its old walls and llie ruins
of a castle, — 251/., ftl. JioiiieiKi!/, an ancient place, with remains of 13-
Ulli cent, walls. -"33 31. Montrevel, <in the Revssouze. — 41 M. Atlvjiiui,
with a hue chateaii. — 48 JI. lUinnj (p. 188).
From Cuai,on-St. Come i<> I.oNs - i.e-Sai niek, 42 M. , railway in 3-
33/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 35. 6 fr. 25, 4fr.(K)c.). — To (10 W.) Ht-dermain-du-
Plain, see above. — 33 M. Louhans (Bufi'ct; IIol. St. Mai-tin), a town with
4320 iuhab. , is also a station on the line from Dijon to St. Amour (see
fo Lyons. TOL'UiNUS. II I. J{<»i/c l>7. 185
Baedeker's yorthern France). It lias an active trade in agricultural produce.
— Beyond (39 M.) Chilly -U-Vig noble we join, to the right, the line from
Bdurg. — 42 JI. Lons-le-Saunier (see Baedeker's Northern France).
FitOM Ciiai.on-St. Come to Ci.uny, 31 M. , railway in 2-2V4 lirs. (fares
6 l"r. 15, 4 fr. 60, 3 I'r. 40 c). — This line runs first to the W., then to the
S., through a vine-growing country. — 5 M. Oivry, formerly fortified, near
tlie forest of the same name, produces good wine and has stone-quarries.
— 7 M. St. Desert, with a fortified church of the 14th centurv. 10 M. Su.vtj,
another place formerly fortified. 131/.. M. ,«. Boil. ITi/o M. St. Gengoti.r,
with 19(X) inhab., is to be the junction for a branch-line to Montchanin
(p. 184). — We now descend the valley of the Orosne. — 23 31. Cormatiii
has a fine chateau of the 18th century. — 26 M. Massilly. — 31 M. Cluny
(p. 195).
Beyond Chaloii the Lyoii.s line diverges to the right from the line
to Boiirg, and for a short distance approaches the Saone, near
which, after passing (47 M.) Varennes-le-Grand and (52 M.) Senne-
cey-le-Grand, it remains. In clear ■weather the .Tnra Mts. are seen
on tlie same side.
58'/2 M. Tournus (*Il6t. du Sonvage, Kue du Nord 8) is a com-
mercial and nianufactnring town of 5248 inliab., on the Saone. Its
most important bnilding is the abbey-church oi St. I'hiliberf, which
is visible, on the left, from the railway. The style is Romanesque
of the Burgundian type, and the structure dates from the ll-rith
cent., slightly altered in the 14-15th. With the exception of the
upper part of the N. tower (the only one finished) of the fagade, the
general appearance of the exterior is massive and plain. From the
transept rises a third tower, and in front of the nave is a kind of
narthex or vestibule of three bays with huge columns supporting
an upper story. The nave lias large round pillars, higher than
those of the narthex. with transverse barrel vaulting. In the S. aisle
is a painted stone altarpiecc of the 14th cent., much mutilated, and
having in front of it a Byzantine statue of the Virgin, in wood. The
Chapel of the Virgin, to the right of the choir, contains some inter-
esting paintings, and the Chapel of Ste. Philomenc, farther on, has
bas-reliefs painted to resemble pictures. The apse at the E. eiul
is surrounded with columns with fine capitals, and the outside of this
part of the church is also worth noticing. The crypt beneath the
choir is interesting. The organ-case also rejJays inspection.
The Rue du Nord. beyond the church, leads down to the Saone,
tlie banks of which are bare. The Rue du Centre, to the right on
this side of the bridge, leads to the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville, em-
bellished with a marble Statue of (ireuze, the painter, a native of
Tournus (1725-1805), by RoTigclet.
64 M. IJrhiztj. — 09 M. 1>„nt-de-Vau.r-Fl€uviviUe. — 71 M.
St'nozan.
78Va iM. Micon \ lluffel : Ifofel des Ckamps-Elysces. Vlnca t]Q.
la Barre; de VKnrope. (^)nai du Nord, far from the station; Cnfe's on
the quay), a town of 19.009 inhab., the capital of tlie department of
Saone-et-Lotre, on the right bank of the Saone.
Macon, the Mati.^co of the ylvlui and a place of some importance in
Cscsar's time, fell into decay under the Itomaii empire. Later it was
186 ///. Route 27. MACON. From Dijon
repeatedly pillaged by the barbarians who invaded Gaul, and down to
the 13th cent, was several times besieged. In the 14th cent. , under
Charles V. , it was added to the possessions ot the kings of France, but
was freqviently alienated and finally annexeil to the crown only in the
reign of Louis XI. (1461-83). During the Religious Wars (1559-67) it more
than once changed hands and suffered accordingly. Macon is now a manu-
facturing and commercial town, but poor in historical monuments.
The Rue Josephine, on the left as we leave the station, leads to
the Quai du Midi, now a promenade, adorned with a bronze Statue of
Lamartine (b. at Macon 1790, d. 1869), by Falguiere. The Saone is
crossed farther on by an old bridge of 12 arches, whicli leads to the
suburb of St. Laurent. Near the statue Is a tine block of buildings,
partly of the 18th cent., comprising the Hotel de Ville, the Theatre,
and tiie Archives.
Behind the Hotel de Ville (Musee, see below), through which
we pass, is the Church of St. Peter, a large modern Romanesque
building, with nave and aisles, transepts, ambulatory, side-chapels,
and galleries. The building as a whole is somewhat heavy. The
nave has squat round pillars with line capitals, each carrying two
little columns from which springs the vaulting. The chapels are
richly decorated with paintings. In the right transept is a beauti-
fully framed epitaph of 1649.
The Muse'e, in the Hotel de Ville, the entrance to which is op-
posite St. Peter's, is open on Sun. from 2 to 4 and to strangers on
other days also.
There are six rooms: one on the griuind - floor contains sculptures,
plaster casts, and antiquities; while of the live on the lirst floor, three are
devoted to natural history, one to drawings and engravings, and one to
paintings. Amongst the last are several portraits of Lamartine, one by
/''/•. Gerard; the Procession of Silenus, attributed to Jordaens; Market
at Antwerp, by Van Ilelmoni; portrait of Richelieu, by J>e Chainpaigne :
Charles IX. and Catherine de' Medici, by -4. Scheffer ; a Holy Family
attributed to Francia; the Apparition, by N. Maas., etc.
Following, to the right as we leave the Mus^e, the street in front
of the latter, we reach the Place de I'Herberie, in which, at the left
hand corner, is a curious Timber House. Keeping straight on we
find in another square, behind the market, the remains of the ancient
Cathedrol of St. ^'lucent, of which the facade with the narthex and
towers date from the 13-15th centuries. One of the towers still re-
tains a portion of its spire and some line sculptures. The narthex
is used as a chapel. The entrance is on the side next the market,
where the graceful columns of the church form a cloister, in which is
a miscellaneous collection of fragmentary sculptures. In the chapel
the tympanum of the ancient doorway may be noticed. — The build-
ing to the right is the rrtfecture. rebuilt in 1866.
About 21/2 M. above Macon is the Jle de la Palme^ wlii'i<' the llelvetii
were defeated in H. C. 61 by Cresar, after they hail to the number of
368,000 crossed the Saone with the intention of establishing themselves
in Gaul.
From Macon to (leneva see R. 28; to .lix-ks-Jiains see U. 28 and 37;
to C'luny (15 M.) and Afoulins see p. 194.
to Lyons. VILLEFKANCHE. I If. lioxtc 27. 187
Our line continues to descend the Saone valley, approaching the
river from time to time. Attractive views to the left. — 82V2 M.
Crccheii; 85 M. Puntaneraux ; 871/2 M. Romnnlchc ('Romana esca')
noted for its wines, Moulin-a-Vent and Thorins. The scenery is
picturesque. — 92'/2 M. Belleville, a small town about a mile to
the left.
A branc)i-liiie runs lienee to (8 M.) Beaujeu , a town of .8418 inhab.,
which lends its name to the surrounding district of Beatijolais. Its formerly
strong castle has almost entirelj' disappeared.
95'/2 ^I- •^'- Georges. — 101 M. Villefranche 'Hot. de Provence;
de I' Europe), a town of 12.518 inhab., on the Morgon. The chief
buildings are Notre- Dame-des- Marah (14-16th cent.) and the Re-
naissance Hotel de Ville. In the upper part of the town is a Pro-
inenade commanding a fine view of the Beaujolais.
103', 'a ^1"'9^.- a large market-town on the Azergues, was a Roman
station, witii proconsular villas.
106 M. Tr6voux (Hotel de la Terrasse), a town with 2666 inhab.,
finely situated on the left bank of the Saone and connected with
Lyons by a special railway (p. 224). It also is of ancient foundation
and still retains a considerable part of its walls. The name Tr^voux
points to the three Roman roads which converged here. The Emperor
Septimius Severus defeated his rival Albinus in 198 near Tr^voux.
During the 18th cent, the town had a famous printing-press, from
which issued the editio princeps of the Dictionnaire Universel
known as the Dictionnaire de Tr^voux. Here too the Jesuits pub-
lished for 30 years the critical and literary journal called the Me-
moires or Journal de Tr^voux.
The scenery improves as we approach Lyons. — lOO'/a M. St.
liermoin-nn-Mont-d'OriBufii-i). the junction of the line from Paris,
via Roauue and Tarare (see R. 29). — 111 M. Neuville-sxr-Sadyie,
a considerable town on the left bank of the Saone and on the Tr^-
voux railway. — 112'/2M. Couzon. with a striking modern church
attached to an old tower. It is ornamented with interesting sculp-
tures and paintings. Fine retrospect. On the other side of the
river is a viaduct of the Trevoux line. Beyond several cuttings and
a short tunnel we reach (115'/a M.) Collonges - Fontaine. The left
bank of the river is now bordered by prettily wooded hills.
118 iM. L'lle-Barhe, a favourite pleasure-resort of the people of
Lyons. Steamboat see p. 223. The station also serves St. Rambert,
with a fine Romanesque church, almost entirely rebuilt in recent
years. Beyond two short tunnels the church of Fourviere (p. 214)
is seen on a knoll to the left.
119 M. Lyon- I'/z/sr. the first of the Lyons stations, in the old
suburb of Vaise, to the \V. of the town and on the right bank of the
Saone. — Then passing through a tunnel more than IV4 M. long
and crossing the Saone (fine view, on the left, of the city) we arrive
at Lyons (Gare de Perrache, p. 210).
188
28. From Macon (Paris) to Geneva,
a. ViS, Bourg, Amb6rieu, and Culoz (Aix-les-Bains, Chambery).
113 M. Express rimte, but 30 M. longer tlian the loute mciitionert
beldw. Railway in 31/4-7 lirs. (fares 22 fr. 85, 17 (r. 20, 12 ir. 60 c,). —
Vnnn Paris, 389 M., in 11-20 hrs. (fares 75 fr. 95, 57 fr. 70, 42 fr. 35 c).
N.B. Besides the route via Dijon, Macon, Bonrg , and Nantua, men-
tioned below, diverging at Amberieu , 357 M. long (from Paris), there is
a still shorter route (344 M.) from Paris to Geneva via Dijon, fit. Amour,
Bourg, and Naniua. Both of these, especially the latter, are adapted for
tourists with abundance of time wlio desire tlie see the country as tliey
proceed, as tliere are compulsory halts, more or less long, at Dijon,
Bourg, and Bellegarde. Via St. Amour the journev from Paris to Geneva
takes at least 171/4-18 hrs. (fares about 68 fr. 75,"51fr. 50, 37 fr. 65 c.).
— Via Dijon, Pontarlier , and Lausanne, the route from Paris to Geneva,
366 M., is performed in 141/2-21 hrs. (fares 70 fr. 55, 52 fr. 40, 38 fr. 30 c).
Macon, see p. 185. We diverge to the left from the Lyons line
and cross the Saone. View of Macon to the left. — 5 M. Pont-de-
Fe?/^e,- IOV2 M. Vonnas. — Beyond (IS'/a M.) Me ze'naMhc Jura
Mountains soon come into view. — il^lz M. Folliaf.
23'/2 M. Bourg (Buffel ; Hotel de V Europe, Place de la Grenette;
(/c France, Place Bernard; de la Gare) , a town of 18,113 inhah.,
once the capital of Bresse and now the chief town of the depart-
ment of the Ain.
Leaving the station we take the street to the left, and farther on
turn a second time to the left, and pass the Frefecfure, a handsome
modern building, with a recently erected bronze Statue of General
Joubert (1769-99), by Anbe. Opposite is the Place Joubert , with
a small obelisk, and a few paces thence is the Place du Quinconce-
onihellislied with a bronze statue, by Millet, of Edgard Quinet,
tlic author (1803-75).
The Rue Lalande, Rue Feyniere, and Rue Neuve lead from the
Prefecture to the centre of the town. The Hotel de Ville, on the
left, contains a small Muse'e (open Sun. 12-4), entered from the
Rue Creve-Coeur, on the right. It comprises some pictures of the
Dutch School, aRibera, Prench pictures, antique furniture, etc.
The Rue Creve-Cceur a short di.stance from the Musee enters the
Place de la Grenette. on the N. side of which runs the Promenade
dn Bastion, wliere there is a bronze statue, by David d'Angers, of
Bichat (1771-1802), the famous surgeon and physiologist, who
was a native of Thoirette (Bresse).
Tlie Church, of Noire-Dame, seen from the Hotel de Ville, is
half Gothic and half Renaissance in style. The 16th cent, stalls,
the old stained glass in the 3rd chapel on the left, and the fine
modern windows of the choir are its most interesting features.
By taking the Rue des llalles, the street on the right of the
church, and then turning to (he right along the l\ue du FanlHuirg
St. Nicolas, we readi the —
*Chuiich ofBrou, celebrated in Matthew Arnold's poem, the
principal object of interest in the town, about I'/j M. from the
BOURG. in. lioi'lc -28. 189
station. Jt was built in 1511-1536 by Margaret of Austria, wifo of
Philibert II., le Bean, Duke of Savoy, in fulfilment of a vow made
by Margaret of Bourbon , her mother -in -law. The i'oiYaiJ is re-
markable for its profusion of ornament, of great delicacy but not
in the best taste. The interior is distinguished by a graceful
simplicity, and moreover contains some masterpieces of carving
and sculpture. Among these are a very rich but somewhat heavy
llood-loft ; magnificent Gothic *S^«Zis with canopies, and, above
all. in the choir the splendid *Tvvibs of the above-mentioned
prince and princesses, by Loys van Boghem, architect of the
church, and by Conr. Meyt. The tomb in the middle is that of
I'hilibert (d. 1504), with two recumbent statues of the prince, one
of which represents him living, the other dead, besides angels,
twelve richly ornamented pillars, and statuettes of sibyls. To the
right is the elaborate tomb of Margaret of Bourbon (d. 1483), with
angels and mourners; to the left that of Margaret of Austria (d. 1530),
which vies with that of her husband. It also has two statues and is
surmounted by a rich canopy; on the cornice, as well as in various
parts of the church (e. g. over the large holy -water basin at the
entrance), is inscribed the motto of this Princess Margot: 'Fortune,
infortune, forte une'. In the Chapel of the Virgin, at the side, is a
large *neredo.i, of the same date, with alto -reliefs representing
scenes from the life of the Virgin. The alabaster statues at the sides
represent St. Philip and St. Andrew. The choir contains a modern
marble altar, with fifteen gilded bronze statues. Some of the an-
cient stained -glass windows of the church are interesting. The
statue of St. Vincent de Paul, in the nave, is by Cabuchet.
Tn front of the portal, on the ground, is traced an oval sun dial,
oil which by placing himself over the letter of the current month,
the visitor may see the hour marked by his shadow.
The adjacent building, originally a convent, is now a seminary.
Branch -railway to Sesan^on and Mouchard, see Baedeker's Northern
France; tn Chdlon - sur - Saune ^ see p. 184. — From Bourg to Geneva via
.Vaniua, see below.
From Boukg to Lyons, 36i/o M., railway in 2-31/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 25,
5 IV. 40, 4 t'r.). — This railway, known as the Ligne de la DomOes^ traverses
the marshy plateau of the ancient principality of that name. It is a country
like the Sologne (p. 30), with more than a thousand po(ds , the draining
of which, however, has been going on for a long time. The line crosses
about thirty of them. ~ 12i/l' *'■ Marlieux, whence a bianch-line diverges
to the (?!/:! M.) little town of VhdiUlnn-mr-Chalaronne; 32 M. Sathonay , a
town with 41flG inhab., at which a camp has been established. Line to
Tr^voux (p. 224). — Itt-acbing Lyons we pa.ss between the fortresses of
Montessuy on the left and Caluire on the righl. 30' ._. Jl. /.j/om.' fOare de
Sathonay, see p. "^10).
The main line, via Amberien aiidCuloz. coiiliuuos in a S.K.
direction and joins the line ironi Lyons to Geneva. l)u tlie left ww
see the Church of Urou and the .lura Mountains. 20 M. L(i Vit-
rrette-Tossiat; '6oM. Vuiil-d'Ain. AVe cross the Ain. — 38'/? M
Ambronay.
190 ///. Kotite 2ii. OYONNAZ. Fru7n Macon
43 M. Amberieu. on the line from Lyon? to Geneva. For the
continuation of the route see p. 261.
b. Via Bourg and Nantua.
84 M. Railway in 53/4-61/4 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 80, 12 fr. 45, 9 fr. 10 c).
No through tickets. From Paris, 12-22 hrs. (fares about 71, 53, 39 fr.). —
Tliis picturesque route is 30 M. shorter than the preceding, but is not
taken by the express trains from Bourg to Bellegarde. Best views on
the left.
To (23'/2M.) Bourg, see p. 188. The Nantua line is on the
other side of the station, and is reached by a footbridge over the
main line. Leaving on the right the Amberieu and Culoz line, the
train runs to the E. in the direction of the Jura. After passing close
to tlie Church of Brou (p. 188), the line ascends a considerable gra-
dient, affording an extensive view on the right. Beyond (29'/2 M.)
Ceyze'rlaf we traverse a tunnel, aiul descend rapidly to cross the
Suran, a tributary of the Ain. View to the left. — 31 Va M. Senis-
siaf ; 35V2 M. Villererersure: 37^2 M- ^^iniandre-sur-Surnn. Im-
mediately after threading a tunnel a mile long, we reach the bold
* Viaduct of Cize, 303 yds. long and 172 ft. high, over the gorge of
the Ain. This has two stages, the lower one for a road, 65 ft. above
the river. Fine view. — Beyond (39V2 M.) Cize-Bolozon the line
rapidly ascends again and runs at a great height above the *Gorge
of the Ain, which here makes a wide bend to the right, forming a
peninsula on which stands Cize. We now leave the river and pass
through 3 tunnels, the last of which is 1^/4 M. long (5 min.). —
44 M. Nurieux. We cross the Oignin and the Ange.
46 M. La Clnse, practically a suburb of Nantua, and on the lake
of Nantua.
From La Cluse to St. Claude, 27i/o M., railway in I1/4-IV2 In"- Cares
5 fr. 40, 4 fr. .5, 2 fr. 95 c). — "^Va M. Montreal, in a picturesque situation,
to the left, with a ruined chateau. — 31/2 M. Martignat; 6 M. nelignat. —
8 W. Oyonnaz (Hotel (hi Commerce), an industrial town with 42.SO inliah.,
engaged in the manufacture of '.St. Claude goods' (see below). To the K.
lies Samognat and in the same direction the Sant <le Charmine (iJO ft.
high); to the S.E. is the picturescjue Lac Oenin. — lieyond (13 JI.) Dorian
we pass through a tunnel into the valley of the Bieiine. — 18 JI. Jeurre.
Farther on, to the right, opens the pictiiresijiie valley of the Longviry,
which is joined, 3 M. higher up, by the equally beaulitul valley of the
Perriire. — Heyond (20 JI.) ifolinges, with its marble q<iarries, we cross
the Bienne. 25 JI. Larans is the station for fit. I.upiciii , 2i/o M. to the
N. — The line follows the picturesque ravine of the Bienne. — 29 JI.
St. Claude (EcAt de France), a town with 8983inliab., the seat of a bishop,
is picture.squely situated at the. confluence of the liienne and the Tacon.
It originated in an ancient and powerful abbey, to whicli St. Claude,
bishop of Besancon, retired in the 12lh cent\iry. As an industrial centre
.St. Claude is noted for the manufacture of snull'-bo.xes , pipes, and toys,
and for gem-cutting. The Cathedral of St. Peter , the old abbey - church
(14-19tli cent.), contains hue choir-stalls of the set-find half of the 15th
century. ~ Various interesting excursions may bi- t.Tken in the neigh-
bourlwjod.
Beyond La Cluse we skirt, to tbe left, the picturesqiK? Lake of
Nantua (IV4M. long, 550-750 yds. broad), the third in point of
to Geneva. NANTUA. ///. Ronle 1?.9. 191
size among the lakes of the French Jura, being exceeded only by
those of St. Point and Chalin (see Baedeker's North. France). The
lake is well stocked with fish, and discharges itself by the Oignin.
48V2 ^f- Nantua (Hotel de France; du Nord), a town of 3157
inhab., lies at the S.E. end of the lake, between steep mountains.
The old Romanesque Church belonged to an abbey founded in the
7th cent., and is remarkable for the curious shape of the nave which
expands towards the roof. It contains a painting of St. Sebastian
by Eug. Delacroix; a reredos of 1502-1563; some good carving;
a handsome liigh-altar with angels, by CI. .Tavet (1781); some good
glass ; and modern mural paintings. — In front of the church is the
statue of Bandin , 'repr^sentant du peuple', killed at Paris on a
barricade in 1851.
The ^"8101118 d'Ain, the sharp crags of which rise on the opposite shore
1)1' the lake, art; auioiig the points most frequently visited from Nantua.
A road, beyond tlie railway, ascending in zigzags througli wood, with
numerous picturesque glimpses, leads in about 2 hrs. to the liighest point,
the .Signal des Monts (Vxlin (4270 ft.) , which commands an extensive and
beautiful view.
Another e.xeursion may be made to the Lac de Silan (see below) and the
f.ac (lenin (151/m M. ; p, 190), whence we may return via Oyonnaz (p. 190).
Interesting routes lead also from Nantua to (32 M.) Culoz (p. 190). via
the Yalrometj ('Vallis Ilomanorum'), passing (16 11.) IMo/ines (Inn), (24 M.)
Champagne, etc. — Another route leads via'(19 M.) JIaitteville (p. 261), etc.
AVe next pass between steep and rocky heights and through a
tunnel (650 yds. long) to the banks of the Lac de Silan (about
IV4 M. long and 270 yds. wide), on which are large icehouses. The
train now ascends a steep gradient and enters a tunnel, in which the
line attains its summit -level (1935 ft.) , having ascended 1460 ft.
since leaving Bourg (28'/2 M.). — 54 M. Charix-Lalleyriat.
About ijijO yds. to the N. of the station, at the Moulin de Charix (Inn)
is the I'isse-Vache \Vaterfall, over 80ft. high and especially fine in April
and May after heavy rains. About 4i/.j M. farther on, beyond Charix-le-
Jlaiity is the small Lac Genin, about 6 M. from the station of Oyonnaz
(p. 190).
The line now descends rapidly towards the Rhone valley, with
a line dale on the right. — 56'/2 M- St. Germain-de-Jonx , prettily
situated on a small plateau to the left. On the same side is the
picturesque gorge of the Semine, after which the line crosses a via-
duct 100 ft. high, over the Tacon valley. Two short tunnels.
60 M. Ch&tilloii-de-Miehaille (1720 ft.; Hotel), a picturesquely
situated little town, on a height to the right, above the confluence
of the Semine and the Valserine.
We now descend on the right bank of the Valserine and pass
two more tunnels, 270 and 630yds. in length. On the opposite bank
rises the Cr^do (p. 262).
63 M. Bellegarde: the station is above the one of the same name
on the Lyons line (p. 261) which is reached by a footbridge.
192
29. From Nevers (Paris) to Lyons.
a. Via. Koanue and Tarare.
1G5 M. I!.\ii,w\v in 8-12 lirs. (fares 32 Ir. 85, 24 (r. 65, 18 fr. 10 c.)-
Nevers, sec Baedeker's Nurthern France. — We cross the Loire
and, turning to the ^V., leave its valley for that of the Allier. Far-
ther on we cross the Canal Lateral, which has itself been carried
over the Allier by the Guetin aqueduct. Heyond a tunnel we reach
(6 M.) Saincaize (Buffet), the junction of the line from Rourges
(see Baedeker's Northern France). — 12'/2 M. Mars. — IG'/g M.
St. Pierre-le- Moutier , which has an interesting church, chiefly of
the 12- 13th centuries. Beyond another tunnel we see on the left
a tasteful modern chateau and further on. to the right, on the left
bank of the Allier, a larger one. — 22'/2 M. Cliantenny-St. hnberf;
28'/2 M. Yilleneure-imr-Allier. The ])ed of Allier is very wide and,
like that of the Loire, almost dry in summer.
36V2 M. Moulins (Bnifct; Hotel de Paris, Hue de Paris; du
Danphin, de l'. {liter, Place de rAUier), a town with 21,720 inhab.
and the capital of the department of the Allier, is of no great anti-
quity and was of importance as capital of Bourbonnais only from
1.368 to 1527. In the latter year Francis I, confiscated the duchy in
consequence of the treason of the Constable Bourbon, who hail
entered the service of Charles V.
A line avenue of plane trees, facing the station, leads to the
centre of the town. To the left is the theatre, to the right the Bou-
levard Croisy and the Boulevard de la Prefecture, which turns to
the left to join the Rue de Paris (see below). Passing to the left of
the theatre we gain the Hue de la Fleche, and turning to tlie right
reach the Tour de VHorloije, a square belfry of the i5th cent., the
upper part of which , a fine gallery surmounted by a lantern, was
restored in the 17th century. Opposite is the Hotel de Ville, con-
taining a library of 25,000 vols., the chief treasure of which is the
Bible of Houvlgny, a splendid MS., dated 1115 and containing 122
miniatures. The library is open every tlay except holidays and during
vacations from noon to 4 p. m.
The ('athedral, a little farther to the left, has its facade, em-
bellished with two tine towers, on the opposite side, in the Place
du Chateau. The nave is Early Gothic in .style and was built from
the plans of Viollct-le-I)uc, who has here imitated the combination
of black lava and white stone which characterizes many churches
of Auvergne. TIk; choir, which internally is loftier than the nave,
dates mainly from the latter half of the 15th cent, and was originally
tlie chapel of the chateau. It has been restored since 1885. The
(;hief points calling for notice are the fine 15-lGtli cent, glass; a
gilt wooden canopy (modern) over the high altar; a Holy Sepulchre
(16th cent.), behind that altar; a tasteful winding staircase on the
right of the choir: and a small monument, representing a corpse dc-
SOrVIO.NV. ///. Iluiile -JU. V.Y.\
vomcd by worni^. in the chapel bot'oro the staircase Just nientioiicd.
■J he ehiel' artistif treasure, however, is a *'J'ripty<;li by Okirlandajo,
in the sacristy, on the left of the choir. This fine Avork, receiitiy re-
>tored , represents on tlie outside tlie Aiinuuciatioii (f^risailie) and
on the inside the Mrgiii and Child surrounded by anjiels, with the
donors Pierre II. de Bourbon (d. 1503) and his wife Anne of France
'd. 1522; daughter of Louis XT.) attended by their patron saints.
The (.'hi'itenu of th(! Dukes of Bourbon stood opposite the cathe-
dral, but the only portions left of it are a square tower (14th cent.),
now used a> a prison, and the buildings (of later date) of the Gen-
darmerie, to till' rii«ht.
.\ little licyoiid. on the same side, are the Place de Paris and the
Uui- de Pari>. at the entrance of which stands the I'alaix de Justice,
formerly a Jesuit college, it contains an Arrh(H>h>iiirftl, Muset'in,
lomposed chiefly of local antiquities (open to the public twice a
month, but at ail times to strangersi.
A short distance from this point, to the left, is the Lyree , ori-
'iinally the Convent of the Visitation, in which, on applying to the
porter, visitors are .shewn the * Maw<<)leurn of Dnlce Henry II. of
Moiil'iiiDrenry . beheaded for treason at Toulouse in 1632. It was
iTccted by ]i\< widow, the Princess des Ursins, who rests beside him.
The desi;in i< by l'Van(;ois ,\nguier (d. 1069). who also worked at
it as a sculptor, with Uegnaiidin and Thibaut l-'ois^iant.
In tliH uiicldle, mi a black iiiarlde sai-t<)pliaj;u.s , is tlie white marble
hialue lit till- Dukf. ill a recliiiiiig posture witji liis wile seatcil by him
overciinie uitli uriel'. The latter statue is a fine work. To the lell.
Strengtli. sviiibcilizeil by a figure ol' Hercule.s, and to tlie right, Charity.
The basi- . aUo of black and while marble, lias lour columns, between
which are three niches, the middle one containing an urn which two
an^elN are wreathing with llower.s. the otheiK with .statiie.s of War and
Iteli^iiin. .Vbnve is a line |iediment and the Montmorency coat of arms.
IJeturning to the Kue de la Fleche and descending to the right
by the Hue dAlliir, we enter the I'lare dWUier, at the end of which
is the CiiuRfii Of THK Sacuku IIkaut (dn Sacre'-CoPUf), a fine mo-
dern building in the early Gothic style, designed by Lassus. The
ornamentation of the exterior is somewhat poor, but the interior
is noteworthy and consists of nave and aisles and a transept, with
only one side portal, and galleries below the rose-windows. This
clmrch has some very line glass, by Lorin.
The line IJegemortes. the second on tlie lelt of the facade, le.ids
to the banks of the .Mlier, here crossed by a fine stone bridge.
Fl:oM Moui.iNs TO MoNTHtioN (Limoges), oO M., railwav in 2I/--4 !'"•»•
(fares 10 fr. 20, 7 fr. ."lo, fj fr. .^") c). — Tlie line crosse.s the Allier and skirts
the town to till- left. Farther on, to the right, apjiear the Chateau de
f'harlUt;/ ami tin- I'hoteaii ile Cliaffa'jiif,-],iilU of the Kith century.
81 J M. Souvigoy (*J/(Jl. ./« Linn-irOi) is a little town, once lamoiis
for its (Jliiniac I'riory, of which sonie building.s, restoreil in Ihi' iTlli cent.,
and the Church still remain. The latter, dating from the ll-12lh cent.,
but altered in the loth., is partly liomanesque, and partly Gothic. The
Tnicert of tin- facade, without spires, are Bomaiiesqiie. but the fat,'ade il-
-.'If is Colhii- (loth cent.). The Merinr, 37?? ft. Ion-, with a double aisled
liaedi'ker. .'SoulliiTn Krancr. 13
194 1 1 1. Roil le 29. P.OriiP.ON-LARCHAMBAULT. From Xrvevf!
nave, is very striking. Along tlie vault (loth cent.) of tlie latter runs a
central rib extending to the E. end and richly carved with foliage. The
apse is a little out of line with the nave. To the left of the entrance is
a piece of a Romanesque column covered with ornament and sculptures
representing the months of the year, signs of the /.odiac, fabulous animals,
etc. On the wall is a sort of Reredos having two tiers of fine Romanes-
que arches, with little columns very richly sculptured and mutilated
statuettes. To the right of the entrance are equally curious fragments of
sculpture. To the right, on this side of the choir, is a stone ciibinet of
the 15th cent, with coarse paintings on the doors. The Old Chapel, on the
same side, and the JVew Chapel on the left, with beautiful balustrades,
were added in the 14th and loth centuries. The former contains the Toinh
of Louis II. of Bourbon, the latter that of Charles I., with their respective
wives, splendid monuments with recumbent statues, unhappily mutilated
and disfigured by inappropriate inscriptions. The sacristy has some fine
wainscoting of the time of Louis XIV. — By the side of this church still
stands the Old Parish Church, Romanesque in style.
Beyond Souvigny the train passes over a viaduct, 85 ft. in height. —
14 M. Noyant, to the left, with a 15th cent, castle. Beyond a tunnel the
scenery improves. The line enters another tunnel followed by rocky
cuttings. — Beyond (19 31.) Tronget the line descends rapidly through a
district intersected by many valleys. — 261/;; M. Chavenon, beyond which
are the extensive ruins of the Chateau de Mural (I3-I4tli cent.). — 32 Jl.
Villefranche is to be the terminus of the new line from Moulins via Bourbon-
rArchambault and Cosne-sur-TCEil (see below). — We soon enter the coal-
basin of Commentry. — 36 JI. Doyel-la-Presle, the junction for Bezenet
(.4 M.), with important coal mines, and (45 M.) Varenne.^ (p. 195). — 411/2 5'-
Commentry. For this town and the rest of the journey see p. 195.
From Moulins to Villefranche via Bourlion-rArchaiitbauU , abo\it
42 M. ; railway open to (35 M.) Cosne-sur-ra<:il (in U/-2 hr. ; 7 fr., 3 fr. 85 c);
thence diligence to Villefranelie. — This line follows that to Montlugou
until the AUier is crossed and then diverges to the right. -- lOl/.j M. >SY.
Menoux possesses an interesting abl)ey - church of the ll-15th centuries.
Souvigny, see below. — 13 51. Agoiiyes ., with another interesting church.
16 M. Bourbon-l'Archambault {flut. Montespan ; de France, etc.), a town of
4456 inhab., unted fur its thermal mineral springs, the Anuae Borvonis of
the Romans, is cionmanded by tlie extensive ruins cif the castle (13-
15th cent.) of the Sires de Bourlniii. The two springs, the Source Chaude
(124° Fahr.) and the Source Jonas (72° Fahr.) belong to government, and
supply a Civil and a Military Estahlishinent. The waters are efficacious in
cases of scrofula and chronic rlieumatism. The environs are pleasant. —
Souvigny (see above) lies 8 BI. to the S.K. of Bourbon, via -4«i»'j^, with its
curious 12th cent, church, and only 41A. JI. to the S. of St. Jlenoux (see
above).
28 M. Bn.rieres-les-Mines. — 35 M. Cosne-sur-(J^il. — 42 M. Villefranche, see
above.
From Moui.ins to Macon. 9(> Jl. . railway in 5-7 lirs. (fares 17 fr. 95,
13 fr. 5(), 9 fr. 80 c). — 171/-.. JI. Vompier're- Se/it- Fonts , an industrial
town with 2979 inhab. , on the Bchre, 2 Jl. to the K. K. of which is the
abbey of Sept - Fonts , now belonging to the Trappists. — 22 JI. Diou , on
the banks of the Canal Late'ral and the Loire. 23 JI. 'ViHj/, junction
of a line to Auxerre via Cercy-la-Tour (see Baedeker's Northern France),
with marble quarries. — Beyond (29 SI.) St. Aijnan we cross the Arrou.r
and the Canal du Centre. - - 35 JI. Digoin (Hotel de la I'oste), an old industrial
town with 4639 inhab., on tlie Loire, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre
(p. 184) and the Canal Lateral. — The railway now leaves the Loire, and
skirts tlie Canal du Centre.
411/a JI. Paray-le-Monial (IMel de la I'oste), a town of 4015 inhab.,
which takes the latter [lart of its name from an ancient Benedictine
monastery, and is still to some extent famous by reason of its convent
of the Visitation, or rather from the fact that one of the nuns of ibis
house , JIarie Alacoque (d. 1G90) brought into prominence tin- «orslii|j
to Lyo))^. ST. Gi:rj.\r.VIN-DES-FOSSF«:S. 111. n. -29. 195
of tlie Sacred Heart of Jesus. The Church is a line building erected in
the 12lli cent, by Cluniac monks; tlie Jloiel de Ville dates from the 16tli
cent. For tlie line from Chagny to Montclianin and Koanne see p. 183.
58 JI. CharoUes (Buffet), a very ancient town of 3311 inhab. , prettily
situated at the confluence of the Saoue and l^oire, and formerly capital
of (Uiarolais, once belonging to Burgundy and from which Charles the
Bold took liis title of Count of Charolois. — Farther on we ascend the
valley of the Semence. — 61 JI. /.« Terveaux-Vurosvres^ beyond which the
line passes through a tunnel from the valley of the Loire to that of the
Hlione. — Several small stations are passed.
7ti M. Clany (Buffet; *IIOtel de Bouvgogne), a town of 4362 inhab., once
of world-wide repute on account of its great Benedictine abbey founded
in the 9th cent., which was at the height of its glory in the 12th. It harl
some 2(XX) religious houses dependent on it and was the intellectual
capital of Europe until its wealth led to a rela.xation of discipline and
tlie preeminence passed to the Cistercian order (see Citeaux , p. 182)
under St. Bernard. The prodigality of the Cluniacs was especially shown
in the superb churches which they built. Unhappily but little is left of
their Abbey Church which furnished the type. The other buildings of the
abbey have to a great e.vtent been rebuilt and now form the Ecole Xor-
inale I'ro/essioniielle. The Abbot's Palace, now converted into the II6iel de
Ville and Museum, dates from the 15-16th centuries. The latter contains
fragments of the old abbey, a model of the church, and abo>it 50 unim-
portant pictures. The visitor should also note Notre-Dame , of the 13th
cent.; fit. Marcel, which has a Romanesque steeple of the 12th cent.;
some old houses, remains of fortifications, etc. The Chapel of the IlOtel-
IHeu contains two fine statues of the early part of the 18th cent., intend-
ed for the mausoleum of the Duke and Uuchess of Bouillon, wliich,
however, has never been erected.
Keturning for a short distance by the same line we ascend to the
lel't. pass through a tunnel nearly 1 M. long, and, after a view of the
old fortress of Berze, also on the left, reach (83 M.), St. .Horlin-Milly (.Bullet).
.Millv, 1/.. M. to the right, was the home of Lamartine (p. 186j. — 90 JI.
Miic'on (pr 185).
Beyond Mouliiis the main line eontiniio.s to ascend the valley
of the Allier, passing (45 M.) Beimij and (49 M.) 1m Fertt-Hnute-
rice. with its large modern i-hatcau farther on, to the left. — 54' 'j^l.
y^nrennes-sur-AlUei'.
From Vareknes to Bkzenet , 41 SI., railway in 31/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr.
10. 4 fr. 45 c). — 6 31. St. Pourqaiu, on the Sioule, an ancient town with
51O6 inhab., and an interesting church. — At (18 M.) ChautelU is a mined
castle of the dukes of Bourbon, dismantled by Francis I. in 1527, after
the treason of the Constable Bourbon (p. 192). Adjoining is a Romanesque
church, with cloisters of the Uth and 15th centuries. — The line ascends
the pretty valley of the Bauble. 34 JI. Moiitmarault. 41. JI. Bi'zenet, and
thence to Commentry, see p. 194.
58 M. Cre'chy. Farther on, to tlie left, is liUhj, with the pictur-
esque ruins of its feudal castle, a favourite excursion from Vichy.
61'/2M. St. Germain-des-Fosses (Buj[j'et). where the lines to Cler-
mont-Ferrand (K. 31) and Vichy (R. 30) diverge to the. right.
The Lyons line bends to the left towards the valley of the Bebre,
passing through a pretty, undulating country. GG'/j M. St. Uerand-
le-Puij. 73 M. Lapalisae. a town with 2952 inhab., l',4 M. to the
left, with a castle of the 15- 16th centuries. Beyond (T'Va ^I-)
.\rfeuilles, the Mvnfagnes de la Madeleine appear on the right.
We pass several viaducts and a tunnel more than ^'4 M. lowi.
S8.M. St. Martin-dKstri'.iu.r.
lo
190 11 J. Ilniitc -2!). KOA^NK. From Nerem
About 3 M. to the N.E. is Sail-les-Bains (Hotel fie V Etablissement) , the
mineral waters of which were known to tlie Romans. These waters,
believed to be the most highly charged with silicate in existence, are
efficacious in infectious diseases and in skin-afl'ections.
After another viaduct and a short tunnel, (89'/2 M.) La Pa-
caiidiire. — 95 '/a M- >^f- Germain-l' Espinasse.
1031/2 M. Roanne {Buffet; Hotel du Nord, Rue de la Sous-
Prefecture), an industrial town of 30,400 inhab. , on the left bank
of the Loire, the Rodomna or lioidumna of the Romans, offers
few attractions to the tourist. The Cours de la Republique, to the
right as we quit the station, and the Kue de la Cote, at the end
on the left, lead to the Rue Nationale, which descends towards the
Loire, passing the modern Hotel de Ville, and, farther on, run-
ning near to Notre-Dajne-des-Virfoires, aline modern church in
the style of the 13th century. The second main thoroughfare of
the town passes in front of the Sous -Prefecture, on the right, at
the end of the Rue de la Cote, and is continued, to the left, towards
the College (recently rebuilt) ami St. Etienne (13 -14th cetit.), the
principal church. The cross-street before the church is reached
leads back to the station. Roanne has important spinning-mills
and cotton factories.
From Koanne to I'arap-le-Monial, Montchanin, and Chagny, see p. 183.
About 71/2 W. to the W. (omnibus, 1 fr.) is St. Alban [Hot. St. Louis, etc.),
a village with cold mineral springs (aerated chalybeate), long famous as
(able -waters. There is a well -managed Establishment and a Casino. A
variety of excursions may be made in the Monts de la Madeleine, which
command fine views of the Loire valley.
Passing to the right of Roanne, the line crosses the iMre at a
point where the bed of the river has been changed. — 105 M. Le
Coteau, a suburb of Roanne, whence the line to St. Etienne diverges
to the right and that to Paray -le-Monial (p. 194) to the left. The
Tarare line ascends the valley of the Rhins, which it crosses several
times. — Beyond (109 M.) L'Hopital are four short tunnels. llS'/aM.
Re'gny. Then between two tunnels, to the left, the pencil manu-
factory founded by the celebrated Cont^. 117 M. St. Victnr-Thizy.
A branch-line runs hence to (41/:; M.) TImy, a town witli 4537 inhab.,
picturesquely situated to the N.E., and to (8JI.) Cours, a cloth-manufac-
turing town, with 6246 inhabitants.
The engineering difficulties of the line increase atid the country
becomes more broken as we approach the mountains of Lyonnais.
Beyond two more tunnels is (121 M.) Anijilepni.", with 7274 inhab.,
and cotton and muslin manufactories. The line now makes a con-
siderable ascent, passes through a tunnel I'^^M. long, and rapidly
descends into the basin of the Rhone. Thi; scenery is picturesque
and a good view of Tarare is obtained, to the left. Another tiiiiuel,
V2 M. long, is passed through.
129'/2 M. Tarare (Buffet; Hotel de V Europe), a modern in-
dustrial town of 12,580 inhab.. in the narrow valley of the Turdine,
surrounded by mountains. It is an important centre for the manu-
facture of plain and embroidered muslins, ami of silk plush for hats.
to Lyuns. ST. GALMIEI!. III. liun/e -29. 1!J7
IS'i'/a M. I'unfcliarra-Sf. Furgenx : 135 M. Sf. Eomain-dc-Po-
pey. Two short tmiaels. 139 M. L'ArbirMe, an ancient town, with
;UJ27 inhiil). , and the remains of a fortress, of which the keep lias
been restored. Line to Montbrison, see p. 223. — We traverse four
more short tunnels. 143V'2 M. Lozaane; 146'/., M. Chazay-Mar-
villy; 148 M. Les Chh-e»- Clumel. — At (153 M.) St. Gennain-
(lU-Munt-d'Oy (small buffet) -we join the line from Paris via Dijon.
165 M. Lyons, see p. 210.
b. Via Roaane and St. Etienne.
Ligne d'Annonay.
liJO M. ItMt.ww ill 8i/4-8i/-> lirs. (fares 37 fr. 55, 28 fr. 15, 20 IV. 70 c.).
Tlii.s route is longer in distance and more expensive than tlie preceding,
liut almo.st a.s quick.
The new line to Annonay via St. Just -sur- Loire and Firniiny (see
lielow) is recommended, as highly interesting, to travellers bound for the
lower part of the Ilhone valley.
To (103'/., M.) Roanne, see above. The, direct lino is quitted
beyond (105 M.) Lr Coteaii. The country becomes very broken,
and tht- line beyond (llO'/oM.) Sf. Cyf-de-Faru:re^ passes through
three tunnels, and beyond (114 M.) Vendranyes-Sf. Priest, through
cuttings and two more tunnels. Near (117M.) SY. Joi/ayvY, we reach the
banks of the Loire, wliose bed is here shut in between the hills of the
Fore/., which exteiul as far as Uoanne. Beyond (123'/^ M.) BalbiynyXhv,
valley expands to the right, on whicli side it is >prinkled with pools
and still bordered by the Forez mountains, dominated to the S.W.
by the J'icne- ski- - ITauie (5370 ft. i. 129 !\I. Feiirs.a town with
3451 inhab. , was fornu-rly the capital of the Fore/.. Its decorated
Gothic church is partly modern. — 136M. Montrond(//(5^fif'eir/Z^A-<e),
with the imposing ruins of a castle of the 14-I6th cent., overlooking
(he Loire. A mineral spring of considerable value has recently been
discovered here, anil a thermal establishment erected. — Line to
Montbrison. see p. 223.
142 M. St. Galmier (Hot. (iondmn: de la l-'oste) , a town of
3410 inhab., 2' ^ -M. (onin. 45 c.) to the left, is celebrated for its min-
eral waters which are largely exported. — 146 M. La Itenaid.ure. —
At (146'/., M.) St. Jiist-sin- Loire, we Join the line from Glermont-
I'errand (p. 229).
190 M. Lyons, sec p. 210.
From ,Sr. .lusr-.suu- Loire to St. Kamuekt- dAlrox (Valley of
THE Rhone), via Firminy and Annonay.
04'/.. JI. (81 JI. via Lvou,sl. Railway in 5 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 9u. !) fr.
lit» c, 7 fr.).
This line, of special iniiiurtance from an indu.striul |>oint nl view,
has 38 tunnels, of a total leuglli of atiout 7 niili'S, 1/., of the whole dis-
tance; li) viaducts of medium length but varying in height from 30 to
100 feet; and numerous deep cuttings. At Bourg-Argeutal it makes a very
sharp curved loop, with a spiral tunnel, similar in character to those
■ 111 llie St. (niltliard line.
108 ///. Route 2'J. ANNONAY.
Sf .Junt-sur-Loire, see p. 197. The valley of the Loire is gained
by a tunnel 170 yds. long , beyond which is (S'/a M.) St. Just-St.
Jinmbert, the station for the little town of St. Ilambert-snr-Loire,
which lias remains of fortifications. We next cross three viaducts,
55, 100, and 90 ft. high, the second after three short tunnels, and before
a fourth ^/^ M. long. — S'/a M. St. Victor-sur-Loire. Viaducts, the
first 95 ft. high, and tunnels follow in rapid succession. — lOVaM.
Fraisse- Unieux, also on the line from LePuy to St. Etienne (R. 35)
which we follow as far as the next station.
12 M. Firminy, see p. 247. — Our line now runs S. and at first
ascends the valley of the Deinrne. by considerable gradients. To
the E. (left) is Mont-Pilat (see below). Five tunnels and three via-
ducts are passed before (17'/2 M.) Font-Salomon, and two viaducts
and two tunnels after that station. — 23 M. St. Didier-la- Sauve
(2415 ft.; Hof. Verdier), a town with 4929 inhab., beyond which we
quit the valley of the Demene. Beyond (27M.) St. Pal-St. Romaht
are a tunnel 650 yds. long, and a viaduct 115 yds. long and 100ft.
high (the loftiest on the line), closely followed by a tunnel of 205
yds. and a viaduct of 175 yds. (60 ft. high), the longest of all.
Beyond (81 M.) Dunitrei- Montfaucon we ascend tin' valley of the
Dunieret^, in which our direction changes to N.E. 32 M. Riotord
(2835 ft.; Hot. Lionnet) is the centre of the timber-trade (pit-props,
etc.) of the district. We now traverse the longest tunnel (I'/j M-),
and descend to the E. by the unusual gradient, for an ordinary line,
of 1 in 33. Beyond (35'/2 M.) St. Sauve nr-en-Rue . a viaduct, and
5 tunnels, we reach the beginning of the *Loop of liourg-Argenfal,
where the line describes almost a complete circle with a radius of
only 315 yds.
44 M. Bourg - Argental (1755 ft.; //<)/. (luicltard; dc France), a
town of 4384 inhab. Its Chiirclt has an interesting 11th cent, portal.
The ascent of the Mont-PUat (\>. 228) may be made hence via Coloin-
bier, 6 M. to the N.E., from which the summit is reached in 2 hrs.
The loop ends a little farther on with a tunnel 1050 yds. long.
We now descend the valley of the De'omc. 47V2 St. Marcel-les-
Annoriay. - 49'/.^ M. Boiiliev. View of Annonay to the right.
52 M. Annonay (*JIdt. dn Midi ; de Prnrence), an industrial town
of 17,300 inlia)). at the junction of the dee)) valleys of the Deome
and the (Jance . has glove-leather factories and paper-mills. In the
I'lace (li'l'lIotel-ile-Ville a monument (by II. Cordier) was erected in
1888 to the nrollieis Monlyolfier , who in 1783 made their first
lialloon ascent from the Place des Cordeliers. The'Champ-de-Mars
contains a bronze statue of lioinsy-dWiii/lux (1756-1826), president
(»f the Convention, by llebert.
Annonay and il.s nianulacdpiics ubiaiu I lieii- wate i-siipi>ly IVom a n'-
serviiir (if the same character a.s lliu.se at St. Kdenne, Ifive-du-Gier, and
St. Clianiont, and con.sfi'uctcil at tlic same period. This lies 5 M. to tlie
N.W. and is formed liv tlie JJarraije iln Tenia;/, a dam more tlian 100 ft.
high, OOfl. IliifU. and neiirlv L'(K_)\dft. lon^; at the summit.
wi
■V^" '' ^ A^ <5Parc *^ jitJLblU.vmai tf
Sour
1 aieftaus < 6
i.GrandeihiUc .B.2
dJloprtal . . .B.5
tJjorcty I).6,
^3tcsaajnes B.2
b (7!<m;< i B 2
l.Larhaud B ■".
S.Lwwr . t 3
S.T'/tT-c. B3
W.rnmelle C 3
■ ct imprime
pa.
Wa^nor «. Dehrs, [yi'lpii!-
VICHY. III. Uimte ;iO. 199
Bfyoiid Aunoiiay we thread a tiimiel, 200 yds. long. At (of) M.)
Midon the line turns once more to the N. E. . and then rapidly de-
scends tlirough 4 tunnels, the first 700 yards long, and over two lofty
viaducts. Fine view of the Khone valley. 61 M. Feyrnud , on the
line from Lyons to Nimes via the right bank of the Rhone (p. 390).
We cross the Rhone at a point where it forms an island. — 64' '2 M.
S^ Rambert-d' Albon (p. 409).
30. From Nevers (Paris) to Vichy and Thiers
(St. Etienne).
921/-' M. Railway to (69 M.) Vk-hy in 2-43/4 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 75, 10 tV. 30,
7fr. 60c.). FromVichv to (23i/.. M.J Thiers, Railway in 8/4-2 hrs. (fares
4 fr. 70, 3 fr. 55,2rr. 55 c.). — From Paris to Vichv, 227M., Railway in 6V>-
131/2 his. (fares 45 fr. 15, 33 fr. 85, 24 fr. 85 c).
To (63 M.) St. Geryyinin - des- Fosse'i> . see p. 195. ~ The Vichy
line continues to follow the valley of the Allier. To the right (tine
view) the line to Clermont-Ferrand (R. 31) diverges. — 69 M. Vichy.
Vichy. — Hotel-omnibuses meet the trains. Railway-omnibus, 30 c.
bv ilav, 50 c. bv night. Cabs, see below.
Hotels. In "the Rue Cunin-Gridaine (PI. 0,2-4), on the E. side of the
Park, beginning at the Establishment; tJKAND-HoTEL des Baiks (PI. a);
NocvEL Hotel (PI. b) ; Hot. de l'Amiraite (PI. c) ^ Velay et des Anglais
(Pl.d); JIoMBRCN KT i)u Casiso and Grakd-Hotel, united (PI. e, f), pens.
10-20 fr. per day: Hot. de la Restaukation (PI. g). — In the Rue du Pare
(P1.B,3,4), on the other side of the Park, beginning at the Casinoi Grakd-
HoT. DES Ambassadecrs (Pl.h), elegantly titled up, pens, 10-20 fr. : des
Thermes (PI. i); DE C'HERBOVRG (Pl-.j); DES PRINCES (PI. k) , Open all the
year numd: de la Paix (PI. 1); du Parc (PI. m). All the above are of the
iirst class (at least 10-15 fr. per day). — Richeliec (Pl.n;B, 2), Rue de I'Eta-
blissement, second class, open all the year. — Britanniqie (Pl.o; C, 2),
DE LA Source Lucas (PI. p;(3,3), both in the Rue Lucas; de Ballore (PI. (] ;
C, 3), Gr.-Hot. Maussand et de JIadkid (Pl.r;C', 2), in the Rue de Ballore.
In the Rue de Paris (P1.I),3): to the right as we go to the station, Hot.
i)u Louvre et i>e Reims (PI. s), always open, R. 3, 15. 31/2 fr. ; Gr.-Hot. de
l'Univers (PI. t), DuBESsAY (PI. u), DU RHONE (PI. v), DU Beaujolais (Pl.w);
to the left. Hot. de la Suisse (Pl.x), de Rome (PI. v), St. Louis (PI. z),
etc. — Rue de Nimes (PLC. 4,5): Hot. Bristol (PI. aa), de Nice (PI. bb),
near the church of St. Louis, de l'Europe (PL ce), d'Orleans (PL dd), de
-Milan (PI. ee), not far from the Park, Hot. du Palais (PL e'e), de Geneve
(PL It), farther on, (jn this side of the Chateau-d'Eau. — Hot. JIoliere (Pl.gg:
B, 4). Rue du Casino, well situated, open all the year. — Place and Rue
de rilolel-de-Ville (PL B, 4,5). also well-placed: Hot. de Narbonne i;t
d'Espa(jne(P1. hh), du Chalet (PL ii), DELoNDREs(Pl..i.j), de Rivoli (PL kk),
DBS Colonies (Pl.ll), all of the second class. — Near the Source de I'Hopital
(P1.B,5): Hot. de Rvs.sie (Pl.mm), open all the year, 7-9 fr. per day, vv,
l'Union (PL nn); Gr.-Hot. du Centre (PL oo) ; Hot. de la Porte de France
(Pl.pp), 7 and 8 fr. per day; etc. — Tliere are also a great n\iinber of
furnished houses, and smaller hotels, especially in Gld Vichy. Near the.
station. Rue de Paris, to the right. Hot. du Globe, uniirelending but good,
7 fr. a day, commercial. — Living is not So dear at Vichy as one miglit
e.Kpect considering tlie reputation of the place. There are, at any rate.
hotels to suit every purse.
Cafis. I.a liestaiiration, also restaurant, in the Park, to the left of the
t'asiuo; other cafes in the Rue de Nimes: Grand Cafe Neitf, Square de V
Hotel- de-Ville : CranU Ca/e de Frame, Rue de Nimes, near tlie Rue de
Paris; Ca/c Iliche, same street, farther on to the right.
200 HI. Eoute 30. VICHY. Ilistoiy.
Cabs. From the station to the hotels, with or witliout luggage by day
(6 a. m. to midnight), with 1 horse, II/2, with 2 horses 21/.) fr. , by night
(midnight to 6 a. ni.) i/.i fr. extra; same scale from the station to lodgings.
— Per drive, by dav, II/4 and 2 fr. ; night 2 and 2V'> *'r. Per hour, by
day. 21/4 and 3 fr. : liight, 3 and 3i/o fr. : etc.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. A, i), near the Hotel de Ville.
Thermal Establishment, open all the year (see below). The mineral
water drunk on tlie .spot is gratis. For the Baths, visitors enter their
names at the ofl'ice, in the Grande fiallerie of the 1st class. Tariff; baths
or douches de luxe, 5 fr. : mineral baths, 1st cl.. 2fr. 50 c.: 2nd cl., 1 fr.
50c.; 3rd el., 60c.; bath in the common basin, 2 fr., etc., according to
tarilT posted up in the establishment. The season reaches its height in
.Tuly and August.
Physicians, A complete list of consulting pliy.siciau.s is posted up in the
galleries of the Establishment, with their addresses. English physician:
Dr. C. E. Cormack. The inspecting French consulting physicians are Dr.
Willetnin , Boulevard National; JJr. <';ir. Rue I'runelle 1: JJr. Coritillon,
Avenue de la Gare, near St. Louis.
Casino (see p. 201), admission, 2 fr. per day, 25 fr. per month. The
subscription admits to all rooms except the theatre, and includes the use
of ch.-iirs in the promenade and the public parks. Admission to the
Theatre, with numbered stall. 4 fr. ; to Casino and Theatre, 5 fr. : sub-
scription for both, (K) fr., etc. An introduction is requisite.
Club. Cekclk Iktkrnatiox.m. (PI. C, 3), at the corner of the Kue Cuuin-
Gridaine and the Rue Sornin. Admission only granted to members of
existing clubs, or on presentation. — Eden Theatre, behind the Nouvel
Hotel (3 and2 fr.).
English Church Service in summer (June-Sept.).
Vichii (850 ft.) is a town of 10,344 iiihab. , prettily .situated 011
the right bank of tlie AUicr, jtiid enjoying a healthy and temperate
climate. It is the principal watering-place of France and even of
Kurope, for it is visited by nearly .50,000 foreigners annually. Ex-
cept its old quarter, which dates from the Middle Ages, the town
is entirely modern. Its waters, though well known to the Romans,
who named the town Vicns CalidHi>. only came into favour towards
the end of the 17th cent. . when Madame de Sevign^ made them
known at the court of Louis XIV.; and they did not become really
fashionable until the Second Empire. The celebrity of the Vichy
waters, however, is not solely due to the favour of Napoleon III.,
who was a frequent visitor, nor to the transformation which the
town partly owes to him , but also to (heir intrinsic virtties. The
place is also indebted for its prosperity to the admirably managed
ICstablishmi'iit , which is the property of the state and is leased by
a company. The waters are chiefly used for drinking, and yet such
is the influx of strangers at the height of the season that the com-
pany is called on to provide 3500 baths a day.
The long Hue de Paris leads from the station to the centre of
the new town. Thence the Rue Lucas , almost straight on, passes
between the MUitary Hospital, on the right, and the !<<>iircei> Liicns
and Vrnnelle , on the left, the former used chiefly for baths, the
latter private property. • Farther on the Rue Cunin -(iridaine
strikes away to the li-ft. skirting the Thermal EstjiblisJiMient and
the Park ami containing many of the chief hotels.
Ca.'iuu. VKHV. 1 1 1, /iou/fi .W. '2Ul
The Thermal Establishment (PI. B, 2, 3) consists mainly of a v;ist
square striK-ture with an arcade of round arches of massive design
built in 1820, to whicli a yet larger annexe, on the W. side, was
,idded in 1853. The first block, in wliich are the offices, is reserved
for baths of the 1st class, which are only distinguished from the
two others, in the annexe, by their elegance and comfort. Here,
too, are several of the principal springs: the Ptdts Choinel (111"
Fahr.) at the end of the gallery as we come from the Park, where
tlie water is raised by a pump; the liiaiide liilUe (107. G" Fahr.),
the most celebrated of the Yichy springs, the water of whicli bubbles
up naturally at the E. end of the cross gallery at the back of the
building; the Source Me-tdames (60.8° Fahr.) , at the other end,
brought hither from the Cusset road; and the Fnili C'arif' (113°
Fahr.), the hottest and most abvmdant spring (55.000 gallons per
day), which is in the basement. The total daily supply from all the
springs is about 04,000 gallons. The water of the Puits Chomel is
especially effective in maladies of the digestive organs; that of the
Grande Grille for liver-complaints, and hepathic affections; that of
the Source Mesdames for chlorosis and other female diseases; while
that of the Puits I'arri; is used solely to supply the baths. For the
other springs, see below, liehind the Kstabli.>hment are the Bati-
ments d' Exploitation (visitors admitted), in which are produced the
salts, pastilles, and barley-sugar of Vichy.
The Park ^Pl.E. (,3,4) , between the Thermal Establishment
and the Casino, is a promenade shaded by fine trees, planted in the
time of Napoleon I. It is the i'.entre of Vichy, and the rendezvous
of the visitors during the Concerts (8.30 to 9.30 a. m., and 2.30 to
3.30 p. ni.). It is still more frequented in the evening. On the right
as we come from the Establishment is the Source du Pare (71.6°
Fahr.). which is little used, though in certain cases it is to be pre-
ferred to the Sources de PIfopital and des Celestins (see below). —
Farther on, to the right of the Casino, is the Concert enclosure; to
Ihf left the ijancl-pavilioii and the Cafe 'La llestanration' (p. 199).
The Casino iPl.li,4i i> a line building in the >.tyle of the Re-
naissance, erected 1800-05, by P.adger. The fa^-ade, in front of
which is a small garden, forms a verandah in the middle, and on
each side a pavilion, with a large window between two colossal
caryatides, and a circular pediment. The caryatides, representing
the Seasons, are by Carrier-Belleiise. On the back of the build-
ing is a colossal high-relief, by the same artist, representing 'The
Springs of Vichy'. Within are to be found all the means of re-
creation usual in establishments of this kind. These include a
large Salle ties Fetes, a reading-room, well provided with French
and foreign newspapers, a ladies' saloon, a billiard room, a card
room, and a theatre. The Casino is open from .Mny 15th to Sept.
30tb, hut the real season only lasts from .lime 1-1 tu Se|)f. ioth.
.Vdmission, p. 20U.
'iO'2 III. H">i/e ;i(i. VK'HV. Kroirsious.
To the right of the Casino, beyond the Park, is the Hotel de
Mile (PI. A, 4), a small plain biiilfling with a pretty fountain in
front of it. At the side are the Post and Telegvaph Offices. Behind
the Casino and on the left side are large Bazaars. — The Passage
du Pare leads to the Place Rosalie (PI. B,5), in front of the Ilupital
Civil. Here is the Source de V Tlopital (88° Fahr.) , similar in cha-
racter to the Grande Grille. The water is chiefly used for gastric
disorders. It has a separate bathing establishment in the Place.
The hospital is to be closed as soon as a new one on the other side
of the railway is finished.
The Rue du Pont, which descends from this spring towards the
Allier, crosses the New Park, a splendid promenade formed since
1861 by the construction of an embankmcTit protecting land which
the Allier used often to overflow. It extends almost the whole length
of the town by the river- bank, and has an area of nearly 30 acres.
There is a flue view of the valley and the eminences on the opposite
bank. The bridge dates from 1866. Lower down tlie stream is
a weir.
Old Vichy, skirted by this park on the left side of the Rue du
Pont, has nothing to interest the visitor. In the lower part are the
private Bains Larhaud (PI. B,5), with a gratuitous drinking-room,
and a little higher up is the Pavilion de Sevi(jne', so named from
its having been in 1676 the residence of Madame de S^vigne, who
then spent a season at Vichy, and speaks of it in her letters.
Farther on are the Sources des Celestlns (PI. C,6), named after a
convent of Celestines which existed here down to the last century.
They are three in number: the Source de la Grotte (57.2° Fahr.),
the Old Source (53.6° Fahr.) farther away and scanty, and the New
Source (53.6° Fahr.), the most frequented. Their waters are pleasant
to drink, but must, it is said, be used with caution. They are
efficacious in cases of gout, gravel, and diabetes. .Vbove the springs
is a pretty park which, on the other side, communicates with the
Route de Nimes.
The Boulevard des Celestins joins, at the end of the iSew Park,
the Avenue des Celestins, which skirts the town, passing in front
of the private establishment of the Bains Lardy (Pi. D, 6) and an
establishment of Bains Thermo-re'sineii.c (pine-cone baths; PI. 1), 6).
Turning to the left along the Route de Nimes, we re-enter the
town, passing some small water-works. In the Rue de Nimes, of
which the Route de Nimes is a continuation, is the new Church of
SI. Lovis {Pl.C^i), Romanesque in style, and decorated inside with
polychrome paintings.
Excursions. -- To ('ism;t, 1^/4 J[. lu the ]•;. , beyond llic railway.
(tiniiiliusiaihvay, '20 c., gratis tor liatliers at the e.slabli.slinieiil Sle. Marie,
All alteinutive. route leads by the AlU'e de!) Dame.'', a i)leasanl promenade
skirting tlie Sichoii, a .small tributary of tlie Allier, and readied by the
Une de^ Hallore. Cusset (Hotel et Villa de.'! Jiains) is a small and ancieiil
town, with its own Itath EitablUhment, having two cold spriui-'s. Hotli the
Excui\^io)u<. VJCIIY. ill. Houlf 3U. 203
establishment and the hotel are situated a little im t)iis side of the square.
ill which the cars stop. In the square is a third mineral spring. — About
21/2 M- farther, on the left, is Les Malavaii.r, in a somewliat dull valley.
To THE Ardoisikeik, a Continuation of the preceding route, 7 31. from
Vichy 1 one-horse carriage, 8 fr., two-horse, 12 fr. there and back includ-
ing halt of 1 hr. About I3/4 M. from Cusset. in the valley of the Sichoii,
is the village of Les Orit-ats; l-'/4 M. farther, in a picturesque gorge, the
Gour Saillani, a pretty little cascade, and 1=*/4M. beyond it ihe Ardoisicre
(slate quarry), less interesting than the road to it. There is an expensive
restaurant (dej. 5, D. 6 fr.).
To THE Chateau de Bourbos-Busset, a continuation of the preceding
route, 8 M. from Vichy. There is also a road via St. Yorre (see below),
but it is to be preferred for the return, unless we go by train (see below)
from Vichy to St. Yorre and w alk thence (21/2 M.). One-horse carriage
15 or 16 fr. : two-horse. 20 or 22 fr.. according to the route chosen: public
conveyance from the Place de la Marine, 4 fr. each. An ascent of little
more than a mile from the Anloisiere beings us to the plateau on which
stands the Chateau de Bourbon-Busset, with the large village of Basset.
This chateau (visitors admitted) became in the 18th cent, the property
of a branch of the Bourbon family, but the building dates from the 14th
century. It is a very remarkable feudal castle, entered by a draw-bridge
between two large modern round towers. The block in the rear, the
only old part, though restored in recent limes, presents a severe but
picturesque appearance, with its massive machicolated tower. On this
side is a terrace commanding a superb *View of the valley of tlie Allier.
the Limagne (p. 204). the Monts Dome, and the Monts Dore (pp. 238. 242.
243), as well as of the Forez group (p. 197). To the left of the court
is a small chapel, rebuilt in the style of the 13lh century. Some of the
rooms liave been .judiciously restored in the original style. — In returning
by (21/2 M.) St. Yorre. we obtain splendid views of the valley of the
.Vllier and the mountains.
To THE Springs ok Vesse add HauTerive. The former is an inter-
mittent spring near Vichy (abontlM), on the left bank of the Allier, by
the bridge. The hours at vvhich it flows are posted up at the Thermal
Establishment (adm., 50 and 25 c). — Jlauterire, 21/0 M. farther (carriage,
7 or 10 fr.), possesses, within a line park, one of the chief mineral springs
worked by the Company. The water, of the same character as that of
Les Celeslins (p. 202), is only used for exportation.
To THE Chateai' de Kakdan, 9 31., via the Bois de Randan. One-horse
carriage. 15 fr., two-horse, 20 fr.. witli return via Maulmont (see below)
18 and 24 fr. : public conveyance from the Place de la Marine, 3i/-.> fr. The
Chateau de Randan is of very ancient foundation, but was entirely rebuilt
in 1822 \<\ Maie. .Vilelaide d'Orle'ans, sister of Louis -Philippe , and now
lielnngs to the Duke of Jlontpensier. It is open to visitors from July 1st
to Oct. lath fui Thurs., Sun., and holidays, from noon to 5. The return
is usually made by the liunting-loflge ii{ Maiilmont (5)1.). also a modern
edifice. Thence we may either proceed hv I/auterive (see atiove), or,
better, cross the Allier jiy the Pont de Kis" (I3/4 HI., see below).
The C6te St. .Imand , 21 ._, 31. to the S.K. of Vicliy. on the left of the
road to Thiers, and the Montague Verte, 21/2 31. to the N.. are especially
visited foi the sake of the views, similar to that from Busset. — The
ruins of the Chateau de Billii, mentioned on p. 195. are also visited; they
are 2i/-j 31. from the of .station of St. Oerniain-de.s-Fosses (p. 195).
The railwiiy now follows (lift right bank of tlio Allier . pa.ssiiis
oil tilt- kit the new civil iio.spital of Yichy. - 7-1 M. {from Ncvcrs;
OM from Viiliy)67. lo/cehas a copiou.s cold niiiifral spriiip, in afini'
park to the rifrlit of tlie line a little b(>fore the station. The water
is only used lor drinkiii;! ptirpo.-es. Excursion to Busset, whoso
chateau is seen on tlie iel't. see above.
■K)i 111. liuulc :jl. RIOM.
78'/2 M. Itis-Chateldon. llh. near tlit< coiifliiciice ol' the AUier
and the Dore, has a flue suspension bridge over the Aliier (to lUn-
dan, see above). Chdfeldon (Hot. Dassaiid), 1^4 ^^- to the S.E. at
the foot of rocky heights, is an ancient town of 1933 iiihab., witli
remains of fortifications and an old castle. It has also a small
Mineral Water Establishment. To the right of the Dore, which
the line now skirts , are the Monts Dome (pp. 238, 239). 82 M.
Pini-Gnillaume; 86'/2 M. Noalhaf.
92 M. Courtii, where our line joins that from Clermont-Ferrand
to Thiers and St. Etienne (p. 230).
31. From Nevers (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand and
Le Puy.
103 31. anil 91 jr. IIAILWAY in 31/4-61/4 ln's. an.l iu 61/- lirs. (lares
21) Ir. 25, 15 IV. 40, 11 Ir. 35 c: anil 18 fr. 15. 13 fr. 65, 10 fr. 5 c"). — From
Paris to Clermont-rerrand, 2G1 31., Railway in Si/o-la lirs. (fares 51 I'r. 85,
38 Ir. 80, 28 fr. .50 c). — Line to Clermont-Ferrand via Bourges and Mout-
lujon, see E. 32; to Lc Puy via Lyons and St. Etienne, KR. 29 and 35.
To (63 M.) St-Gerlnain-(lei-Foss^'s . see K. 29. — The railway
turns to the W. and crosses the Aliier. lieyond (66'/> M.) St.Reiny,
the line steadily ascends, affording a fine view of the basin of the
AUier and the mountains of the Forez (p. 197), bounding the horizon
to the left. The Monts Dome are also in view (pp. 238. 239). —
74 M. Muntei(jii(t- l-^scHruUes.
TT'/oM. Gannat (Jfot. <le la I'usle), a town of 5600 inhab.. on
the Andelot, with an iutercsting church of the 11th and 14th cen-
turies. — Line to Bourges and Montlugon , \\. 32. ~ We next tra-
verse the JAmayne, a fertile basin of the Basse-Auvergne, covering an
area of about 90 sq. miles . watered by the .\llier and bounded by
the Monts Dome on the W. ami the Forez range on the E.
84*/2 M. Aitiueperse. a little town with a fine Gothic church of
the 13-15th cent., lately restored. It posseses a painting bvA.Man-
tegna, one by Ben. (lliirlandajo . and s(uue good carving. — 90 M.
Poatiiiorl. To the ri^ht is the eliain o\' the .Monts Donu-. dominated
by the Vu\ de Dome ip. 238).
95 M. Riom {llul. de la I'ostc. .i town of 10,300 inhab., long
tlii^ capital of Auvergne and a rival of I'lermont . is well built, but
of dark stone or Volvic lava. The chief churches are St. Aimable,
ill-14th and 18th cent.); i\olre-I)anie-di(-.\[artknret (15th cent.),
with a dome; and Ste. C'liapcUe ^14-15th cent.), with fine windows of
the 15th century. There is a Museum with 200 pictures, a large
Prison of the 17th cent., and some ancient houses of the loth ami
16th cent. , including the Hiilel. des ('(itisiits. opposite the Hotel
lie Ville.
.\lHiut .! .M. In 111!' X.W. (ilili;iein.'f in Txl mill.. 4 times a day, (H) c)
is Chatelgiiyon l.S//?e/i'/ii/ IIMtl; (Iraiid Ildtel ; iles Thennes; ISurtliHemy, elf.),
;i villii;c nt aliiMil IHOO inliali., noted for its mineral-springs, with a well
maiiaiicd EfUMifltment.
ISSOIHK. III. UoH/f 31. Qor.
P<il)lic conveyances also leave Uiom twice a ilav in (lie season (3 and
3 fr.) lor (171,2 M. to the N.W.) Chateauneuf-les-Bain's (liOt. St. Cyr; Bresle ;
t'hattard; La Jiotonde; Petit Rochti; etc.), on the •Sionle, also with mineral
springs. The 18th cent. Chateau contains various collections.
Besides the Ptiy de Dome on the right, we now see, on the left
the Mont Rognon . with a ruined tower, and the Plateau of Ger-
govie (p. '239). Beyond (99 M.) Gerzaf, on the right, is Monfferraiid,
with large new barracks.
10!) AI. Clermont-Ferrand (lUiffef). For tliis town and Aiivorgne,
see pp. 231 seq.
Keeping in view for a long time the I'ny de Dome, Mont-Rognon,
and the Plateau ofGergovie. wo pass (108 M.) Sarlieve-Cournon
and (109 M.) Le Cendre-Orcet , and reach the banks of the Allier.
Undulating country; best views to the right. Beyond (112 M.)
Les Marfre-'<-de-Veyre!< we have on the right the Puy de Monton
(1925 ft.) on which is a modern statue of tlie Virgin. 65 ft. in height.
We cross the Allier.
114 M. Vic-le-Cointe , tlie little town of wliich name lies 3 iM.
to the S.E. The old part of its chnnJi. the Stc. ChapoUe, is remar-
kable as a rich example of tlie end of the fiothic period and the be-
ginning of the Renaissance.
Farther on, near Coudes, are the imposing ruins of tlie ■''Chateait.
de Huron, an ancient stronghold of the Counts of Auvergne. This
country abounds in old castles and ruins, most of them on 'puys'
(p. 235), as the singularly formed peaks are called. To the right,
beside the Allier. are the ruins of a toll-tower. Above Coudes. on
the right, is Montpeyroux, dominated by a 13th cent, tower.
lliS'/a M. Coitdes (Hot. de laGare), on the right bank of tlie
.Vllier. Diligence to St. Nectaire, see p. 246; to Besse. p. 243. To the
right and left are rocks and picturesque eminein-es. We recross the
.Mlierand see on the horizon to the right the. Monts Dore (pp. 242,243).
124'/., M. Issoire (Ihiffet : Hof. de la Posfe), a town of 6265 in-
hab. , to the risiht. on the Covze . was the scene of many excesses
both by Calvinists and Catholics in the 16th century. The fine
"Church of .^f. Pnitl, in the Auvergnat-Romanesqne style, resembles
.\otre-Danu'-(lu-Port at Clermont.
The country iu)W becomes less interesting. To the left, at a
distance, is the Chateait de la (lran(/e; farther off, to the right,
s/. Germaln-Lembron. a considerable village on an eminence; then
the ruins of the Chateau de Chains. — Passing (130 M.) Le Breiiil
and (132'/2 M.) Le ^aut-du-Loup , we cross the Alagnon and note
on the left another castle in ruins. Then, after a short tunnel.
(136'/., M.) Bra.f3ar, the centre of a small coal-field.
At (140 M.'l Arrant fP.uflet') the Aurillac bnuich (p. 253i di-
verges to the right.
To the right, on an eminence, is the Chateau de I'liuUuir ^ I;»th
<ent.) ; to the left, a fine mountain amphitheatre.
200 III. noute 32. BOUROES.
146V2 M. Brioude (Hole! chi Nord), an ancient town of 5100 in-
habitants. Tlie Church of Si. Julien, well seen from the railway, is
a remarkable monument of the 12-13th cent., Gothic in its details,
but still Romanesque as a whole. It has a tower at each end, both
rebuilt in modern times, that over the portal without a spire. The
Chapel of St. Michel contains some valuable mural paintings. —
La Chaise-Dieu (p. 252) lies 24 M. to the E. of Brioude (car-
riage-road).
Recrossing the Allier 1''., M. farther on, we pass (153 M.) Frn-
(/irres-le-Pin. On the right, the picturesque ruins of the Chateau
de Domeyvat (15th cent.), overlooking the village of the same
name. — IST'/a M. Paulhai/uet. — At (16 M.) .S7. Georges-dWurnc
diverges the line to Nimes (R. 55). — Hence to Le Puy, see p. 253.
32. From Orleans (Paris) to Clermont-Ferrand via
Bourges.
204 M. Railway in II-I21/4 hrs. (fares about 40 fr. 35, 30 fr. 20, 22 tV.
20 c). — From Paris, 298 M. in 13i/o- I6I/2 lirs. (fares about 55 fr. 15,
41 fr. 35, 30 fr. 35 c). This line is very interesting beyond Mont-
lucon (p. 225).
Orleans, see Baedeker's Northern France. — To (49 M.)
yierzon, see R. 5. — The railway crosses the Yevre and the Camil
du Berry, and traverses a tunnel, beyond which diverges the line to
Limoges (R. 5). We continue to skirt the S. side of the canal.
55 M. Foecy. — 58 M. Mehun-sur-Yh-re, a town of 6350 inhab.,
with some remains of a castle in which Charles YIL starved him-
self to death in 1461, from fear of being poisoned by his son, after-
wards Louis XL Mehun also contains a remarkable Romanesque-
Gothic church. — Beyond (63'/2M.) Mffr<)m(/)?e the linetoMontlu^on
(p. 209) diverges on the right. We recross the Canal dn Berry and
the Yevre. — 60 M. Bourges (Buffet).
Bourges. — Hotels. I5oli,e-d'Or, Place (Jordaine (PI. a; C,2), K.&L.
3, A. Vj, <'«;.)■ 3, !>• 4 '■'■■); BE France (PI. b: B, 2), Place Planchat, nf
the same, class; Jacques-Cceui! (Pl.c; H, 3), Kue des Arenes 35. — Cafis.
Grand Cafr, Hue Moyenne 14; Jleaur-Arts, near the Ecole des Keaux-
Arts (p. 209). — Cabs. Per drive 1 fr. 50; 1st lir. , 2 fr. 50 c., afterwards
2 fr. 25 c. per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office (PI. B, 3), Place Berry.
Bourges, a town of 40.217 inhab., tiie old capital of Berry, i-
now the chief town of the department of tlie Cher, the headquarters of
tiu" 7th army-corps, and the seat of an archbishopric, etc. It stands
in the midst of flat nu'adows at the conlluence of the Yevre and tiie
Auron. Naturally a (luiet town it owes what animation it has to the
railway and the establishment of a large arsenal with a cannon-
i'oundry.
Bourges is tlie Avarkum of the Bonians, the capital of the Bituriges,
who olVei'ed heroic resistance to .luliiis Ctesar, as he himself records.
-Aller having been taken and surkeil liy him, B.C. 52, it became the me-
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(■athe.ihnl. ROlKfJKS. II f. Route 3-?. 207
tropolis of Aquiiania Prima. It was later .successively taken by Eurie,
king of the Visigcitlis, by Clovis, by Pepin the Short, and by the Normans.
Foi a time \in(ii'r the sway of independent seigneurs, it next reverted to
the crown, and even became the capital of the kingdom, under Char-
les XII., c(Uitinuing; so until the relief of Orleans by Joan of Arc in
1429, after which it still retained some of its importance as the capital
of the Duchy of Herry. It became the seat of a university, which num-
bered amongst its students Theodore Beza. .\myot, and Calvin, and
among; its professors the famous lawyer Cujas. Many of the inhabitants
bavins; embraced the Reformation, the town suffered considerably in the
wars of religion. It has also been several times ravaged by pestilence
and terrible iires. I.ouis XI. was born here in 1423, and it is also the
birthplace of Jacques Coeurtd. 1456), the famous treasurer of Charles VII.:
as well as of Hiuirdaloue, the celebrated pulpit-orator of the 17th cent., etc.
The **Cathe(iral (St. Etienne) ofBourjies (Fl.D.S), its principal
building mjkI one of tlii' most beautiful churches in France, is in
the highest part, toward the S. E. angle of the old town, the limits
of which are marked by two circular series of streets, between which
are still found remains of fortifications. The building of the present
church dates from the 13-14th cent., but it was not finished until
the 16th.
The *F(ira(le, though lacking in unity, has an imposing effect
and is very richly decorated. It is 175 ft. in breadth and is pierced
by five portals, which correspond to the nave and double aisles.
Specially noticeable among the sculptures are those on the middle
portal, the tympanum of which represents the *Last .Judgment. This
principal portal and those on the right date from the 13th cent.;
those on the left from the 16th. In the cijiitre of the facade is a
magnifleiMit rose-window. 30ft. in diameter. At the sides rise two
towers. That on the right or 8. side, the Tuur Sourde (14th cent. :
unfinished), is 190 ft. high, and is flanked by a building which de-
stroys the harmony of the fagade. The north or Butter' Tower (Tour
de Beurre). which is more remarkable, attains a height of 210 ft. It
was built in the 16th cent., partly with the sums paid by the faith-
ful for permission to use butter in Lent. The exterior of the church
is otherwise very plain; it has no transepts, but there are two side-
portals, the more remarkable from the fact that statues, from a more
ancient church of the 11 -12th cent., have been enshrined in them.
Interior. This is not less imposing than the fa<;ade. The whole fabric
unasures 365 ft. in length, 136 in breadth, and 120 in height under the
arch in the nave, 70 ft. and 40 ft. in the aisles. The windows and the
triforium of the former appear nevertheless dwarfed when compared with
the height of the pillars. Side-cliapels were added in the 15th and 16th
centviries. The choir is built over a crypt, for the construction of which
the fosses of the Itoman enceinte have been utilized. It serves as the burial-
place of the archbishops. The five chapels of the apse are projected on
pillars. Connoisseurs will remark the ".S'tajwe*/ ('io.« of this cathedral, for
the most part of the 13th cent., and perhaps the most bea\itiful e.xisting
in France, e.specially that of the apses and of the fajade. It is said that
as many as 1610 figures may be counted. Among the works of art are,
in the 2nd chapel to the right of the nave, an .\doration of the Shepherds,
by Jean Boucher of Bourges (1563-16.331: in the ne.\t chapel. Gobelins ta-
Iiestry after Raphael's cartoons, the Healing of the Cripple and the Death
of .Vnanias: the choir-screen, a modern work in the style of the 13th cent.,
QOS ]J1. I!.,ii/e :i-J. r.On;(;KS. Hu/el,ih'J(u//>,e.''Cinn%
and in the Chapel i)f the Virgin, tlie .statues (ifjcihn. Duke nl' I{eii\
(d. 1416) and his wife (see p. 209).
To tlic right, or 8. of the cathedral is the Archhisltop's Garden
(PI. D, 4), a tine public promenade. The Archbishop's Palace itself,
which dated from the 17th cent., was burnt down in 1871, and has
been partly rebuilt. — Following the streets skirting the garden on
the S. , we arrive at the large Place Se'rauconrt (PI. D, 5), the old
mall. At the other end ('/4M.) are large water-works, built in 1867.
To the left, at the beginning of the Avenue Seraucourt, which
leads back to the interior of the town, is a T)oor of the 12th cent.,
with bas-reliefs representing tlie months of the year , a hunt, and
fables. — Continuing straight on in this direction, we pass near the
Prefecture (PI. C, 4; to the left) and in front of the Theatre (PI. B. 3'.
A little farther on, in a small square opjiosjte his old abode, is
a marble Statue of Jacques Cctnr, by Pn'ault.
Jacques deiir (i400?-U56), originally a liuuible workman in tlie mint
at Bourges, rapidly rose to be one of the leading merchants and financiers
of his times, owning 7 merchant fleets and 3tX) trading factories. In France
his chief warehouses were at Montpellier, Marseilles, Tonrs, and Bourges.
He was also an extensive landed proprietor, with no less than 30 chateaux
and sumptuo<is mansions. His enormcms riches enabled liim to lend
200,000 crowns to Charles VII., who placed him in charge of his finances,
and repeatedly entrusted him witli important political commissions. His
extraordinary fortune excited enmity and jealousy. He was accused,
without proof, of having poisoned Agnes Sorel, who had loaded him with
henetits, of having debased the coinage, and of having forged the royal
sign-manual. Condemned to death in 1453, his life was spared at the
intercession of tlie Pope. Banished from France, he took up his abode
in Cyprus, and died in Chios in 14-56.
The *H6tel de Jacques Coeur (PL B, 3) is now the Palain de Justice,
increased by a heavy modern addition on the right, in the Renais-
sance style. Next to the cathedral this is the most remarkable build-
ing in Bourges. It was built in the second half of the 15th cent.,
against the lloman ramparts, of which it incorj)orates and so pre-
serves three towers. Above the Gothic door of the facade was a statue
of Charles YIl.. and on each side carved in a blind window there i-
still the head of a servant watching for his master's return from
exile. Besides Canir's arms, consisting of hearts and shells, liis
motto: 'A vaillans ccBurs riens impossible', may be seen. The build-
ings in the court-yard have preserved their original character more
thoroughly. There are porticoes and staircases in three beautiful oc-
tagonal turrets, embellished with bas-reliefs and medallions. The
most interesting part of the interior is the chapel, on the first story,
above the entrance (apply to tin- porter), it is preceded by a fine
waiting-room, the old Salle d'Arnies, with two carved chimney-pieces
and a groined roof. The chapel itself has its ceilingdecorated withj
paintings of the 15th cent., representing angels. On the other side
is another room vatilted like the last.
■\Ve cross the conrt-yard and descend by a public passage to th^^
Place Berry, whence the other side of the hotel . with the lioniau
towers, is seen.
Mu.ie'e. HOUKGES. J I J. liuit/e 3-J. 201)
The MusEE (1']. A, 3; opeji on Sun. 11-4; to strangers on other
(lays also), formerly in the Kue Jacques-Canir , is now installed in
the old Uenaissance Hotel Cvjnx, Rue des Arenes 6, a little beyond
the Place Berry. It contains a variety of collections of no great im-
portance, including ancient, media;val, and modern sculptures, paint-
ings, fine enamels, carved ivory, and other works of art , medals,
antique vases, weapons, porcelain, faience, antique furniture, na-
tural history and ethnographical collections, etc. Among the sculp-
tures are ten alabaster statuettes from the tomb of the Duke of Berry
in the cathedral (p. 208). The paintings include the *8hutters of a
triptych by /. Boucher (the centre of which is in the church of St.
Bonnet, see below), representing the painter and his mother; two
Annunciations; an old portrait of Cujas, etc.
Bourges still retains a considerable number of old houses; e. g.,
in the Hue des Toiles and the Rue Mirebeau , a little farther to the
N. Between these two streets, to the left, is Notre- Dame (PI. B, 2),
a church founded in the 12th cent, and rebuilt in the 16th.
In the Place Cujas, to the S.E. , stands the handsome Ecole des
Beau.r-Arts (PI. B, 2), a modern building in the Renaissance style.
To the right from the Rue Coursalon, a little farther on, diverges
a street. No. in which is the Hotel Lallement , a curious building.
Renaissance in style on the side facing the court. It is occupied
as a religious house, but visitors are admitted on contributing to
the alms-box.
Farther to the N. is the CInirvh uf SI. Bonnet (P1.D.2), rebuilt
in the 10th cent., containing two pictures by.). Boucher; in the 4th
chapel, on the left, the Education of the Virgin, the principal
panel of a triptych of which the shutters are in theMus^e (see above) ;
in the 6th. the Parting of St. Peter and St. Paul.
The new Boulevard de la Republique leads from this church to
the station.
The vast military establishments (no admission) of Bourges, the
Arsenal, Foundry, etc.. are outside the town, to the K., about ^W^i.
from the cathedral, via the Rue de Strasbourg. Still farther on, to
the right, are the barracks, artillery-butts, etc.
From Bourj:es a railway run.s to (21 M.) Dun-sur-Auron ur Dun-le-livi
(}16UI Manjot), an ancient industrial town with ioori inhab. ami important
coal-mines. The Chuic/i dates iVnni the 13-I5th cenluries.
From Bourges to ^'eve|■s and to JJeaiine-Ui Rolaiule, see Baedeker's ^Vor-
Utern France. I
Continuing our journey to Clermont-Ferrand, we return towards
Vierzon, to the point at which the Yevre and the Canal du Berry are
crossed (p. 206), and there we turn to the left. The best views are
to the left. In the distance Bourges Cathedral is visible. 70 JVI. (from
Orleans) l.n Cliapelle-St. Ursin. 75 M. St. Florent, a small town
on the Cher, with iron mines and manufactories in the neiglibour-
Baedeker. Sonlherii France. 14
210 Iff. Route ,32. ST. AMAND-MONT-ROND.
lidoil. Wp next, skirt the right bank of the Cher, and soon cross it.
791/2 M. Ln.ncry.
85V2 ^I- Chdfeniineiif-siir- Cher, a little town with a beautiful
castle of the Renaissance, on the right bank, and a modern Gothic
chnrch with a stone spire. Contimiing to skirt the Cher, we reach
(90'/2 M.) Bigny , witli manufactories and a castle, and (94 M.) La
CeUe-Bntere.
About 2M. to the S. is the, old Ahheij of .VoiWnc, cpf the 12-13th cents.,
rimvertPit into a porcelain manufactory; and 4 M. to the N.E. is Afeillan,
with a magnificent "Renaissance chateau in the same style as the lintel
de .Jacques Cceur at Bourges.
99 ','2 M. St. Amand-Mont-Rond (Hotel de la Paste), a town of
8476 inhab., situated on the Mmmonde, between the Cher and the
Canal du Berry. It has a Transition chnrch; and on a hill a little
higher up are the ruins of the Clinteau de Movf-ltond, which was
taken by the great Cond^ and dismantled during the wars of the
Fronde.
Noirlac lies nearly 2 M. from this town, and Meillant 4 31. (see above).
About 21/0 M. to the S. is Drirant, a village with the remains of a Roman
fortified enceinte and theatre, and other Roman antiquities.
105 M. Ainay-le-Vieil has a Renaissance castle, to the left, a
little before the station. We now skirt the Canal du Berry, which
has crossed the Cher and runs parallel with it on the left bank. —
The next stations are (lOS'/a M.) Urpay, (llS'/aM.) VaUon, (i2lM.)
Mafjnefte, and (125 M.) Les Trillers, whence an industrial branch-
line diverges to the left, and the line to Tours and Chateauroux
(p. 225) to the right. We then join the line from Gue'ret (p. 34),
cross the Cher, and reach (136 M.) Monflur.on. For this town and
the journey thence to (178 M.) ilannat, see p. 225; from Gannat to
(204 M.) Clermont-Ferrand, p. 204.
33. Lyons.
Railway Stations. There are S passenger stations in Lyons including
the 'Ficelles' (p. 211), hut the central stati(m and the only <me of impor-
tance to visitors is the Oark de I'krrachk (PLC, 6; HutVet). The others
are those of Vahe (I'l. .V, 1), on the I'ans and Dijon Line (R. 27); the dare
de Genei'e or iles Jirotteatix (I'l. <»,3), and St. Clair, on the Geneva line (R. 36) ;
Sathonay (PI. D, 2 ; Ficelle), for Bourg and bcvond it, via La Donibe.s (R. 28) ;
SI. Paul (PI. C, 3) for the Monthrison line (p. 223) : St. Just (PI. C,4; Ficelle)
for the Mornant and Vaugnerav line; St. Oenij-(V An.^te (Pi. G,3), for the line
of that name (p. 224). ~ The" riare de la Monche (PI. K, F, <) is no longer
used for passengers. - For departures from Lyons see p. 223. At the
Perrache station the hotel-omnibuses meet the trains, but as a rule they
are as e.xpensive as cabs, or for a party dearer.
Hotels. Grand-Hotel de Lyon (PI. a; D, 3», 16 Rue de la Republique,
R. from 3, dej. 8V'>, !"»• fr., pens, from 11 f r. ; Gr.-Hot. Coi,i,et & Con-
TlNENTAi- (PI. b; I),"'4), 62 Rue de la Republique, R. 3-20 fr. ; GR.-Hot. de
Bem-ecour (PI. c; D, 5), 20 Place de Bellecnur; «.iB.-H6t. de i/Europb
(PI. d; D,4), 1 Rue de Bellecour, R. 3 fr. ; (iR.-Hor. du Globe (PI. e; D,4),
21 Rue Gasparin, R. up to 8 fr. ; Hotel de Rome (PI. p; C, 0,5), 4 Rue
dePevrat; Gr.-Hot. des Beaux-Arts (PI. f: D,4), 7.5 Rue de I'Uotcl-d.-Ville;
^^
1:1
=4^ I ,
ilrfraimidjsf's) Fori
J
^-\
■''-•^<j
LYONS. JU. Ito'itr 33. 211
Or. -Hot. DBS Etrangers (PI. g;D, 4), 5 Rue Stella, 'pens.' 7-10 t'r. ; Hotei,
DBS Negoci\nts (PI. h; 1), 4), 1 Rue des Quatre-Chapeaux, R. from 2, A. i/j,
de'j. 2i/o, D. 31/.., (imn. 1 fr. ; Hot. des Archer,'! (PI. o; D, 41, 15 Rue des
Archers' R. 21/2," de.j. 21/2, 1^- 3 fr. — Or. -Hot. de l'Univers (PI. i; D, 6),
27 and 29 Cours du Midi, "well spoken of, R. from 2, A. 1/2 ir. ; Angletekre
(PI. .j; C, 6), 21 Place Perrache; de Hordeau.x et du Pakc (PI. k: 0,6),
ill tiie same Place (no table d'hote); de la Poste (PI. 1; U, 5), 3 Uue de
la Barre (hotel me\ible), R. from 2 fr. ; du Havre et du Lu.xembhukg
(PI. m; D, 4), 6 Rue Ga.sparin ; de Milan (Pl.n; U, 3), 8 Place des Terreaux;
IIotel akd Restaijrakt Durost (pi. o; 0,6), 19 Place Perrache. — Gr.-Hot.
DE Toulouse, 23 Cours du Midi, de.j. 21/2. !'• 3 ir. ; Hot. dbsVoYAGeurs, Hot.
i>E i.\ Oare, 17 and 16 Place Perrache.
Bestaurants, Maison- Doree , Place Bellecour; Maderni, 19 Rue de la
Republique; Casati , 8 Rue de la Republi(|ue; dn fielder, 98 Rue de I'Hotel-
de-V'ille, all first class, with corresponiling charges ; dn Theatre, at the Belle-
cour theatre (p. 212), dej. 3, V. 4 Ir. ; Cafi'-ReHaiivant Girard, 8 Rue des
Jacobins (21/j and 3 fr. ); An A*o.«fii/, 42 Place de la Republique, and Place
Ampere; Bouillon Montesquieu, Place Perrache, at the farthei' corner to
the left on couiina: from the station; ('hamosfei , 4 Place <les Jacobins,
\). from 2 fr.
Caf^s. Mainon-Doree^ Casati, see above; Antjlaix, 24 Rue de la Re-
publique; ('. dn xix" Siecle, 37 Rue de la Republique; C. de Madrid,
Place de la Comedie and 1 Rue de la Uepubll(iue; C. Morel, 100 Rue de
I'Hotel-de-Ville and Place Bellecour.
Brasseries, liranKerie den Cheinins de fer, 12 Cours du Midi, with garden
and large billiard room, below the Perrache station, to the i-ight on ap-
proaching it, with a branch at 93 Rue de I'lIotel-de-Ville ; O. Umdenxioi-k;
30 Cours du Midi, near the Hotel de PCnivers (pi. i). a large establish-
ment in the Moorish style, with a terrace; (Ir.-Tavtrne AUacienne, 53 Place
de la Republique; O'r'-Tar. Gruber, Place des Terreaux.
Cabs, With seats for 2 persons, I fr. 25 c. per drive in the town ; hy
the hour. 1 fr. 50 c. for the lirst hour, 1 fr. 35 c. for each additional hour;
with seats for 4 persons. I fr. .50 c. per di'ive. 2 fr. and 1 fr. 50 c. per hour.
■■Voitnres nouvelles' with 2 seats, 75 c. per drive. 1 fr. 25 c. jier hour. —
Luggage. 25 c. each trunk, 75 c. for 3 or more.
Tramways, Ten lines, the principal of which uie marked in the
plan, traverse the town and suburbs, viz.: Place le I'ls/e (Pi. L). 5) to .l/o«-
plaisir (PI. G, 6) or to Motitchat (PI. O, 6); — Cordeliers (Pl. K. 4» to Villeur-
hanne (PI. 0,3); Pan- (pl. K, 1» to Guillotii-re (pl. E, 6-i); Jiellecoitr (PI.
1), 5» to Pont d'EcuUy (.Pl. A, 2); -- liellei-oitr to the Gare de Vaise (Pl.
A. 1);— Terreaux (Pl. I). 3) to the Gare de Vaise: — Perrache (Pl. C, D, 6)
to IfroUeanx (Pl. O, 2); — Pont Morand (Pl. E. 3) to «. Clair (Pl. K, 1); —
Place de la Chariti (Pl. I), 5) to Onllins (pi. C, 8). Usual fares: 1st cl. 20
c. ; 2nd, outside, 10 c. — Steam Tramway from the Avenue de Saxe (Pl.
F, 6) to !<t. Fonds, via the Rue de la Thil)au(liere and Rue de la Madeleine.
Steamboats on the Saone. The Mnuches plv between Perrache (Pont
du Midi; PLC. (i), Vaise (Pont Mouton; Pl. A. 2). and St. Rambert (Ile-
Harbej, 10 c. iiu weekdays, 15 c. on Sun. and holidays to Vaise, 25 c. all
the way. T\\^. 'lufpes ply between Lyons (f^uai St. Antoine ; Pl. 1), 4) and
CoUouges (p. 187), touching at Vaise'. I'lndnstrie, Rochecardon (opposite
tlie tower of La Belle-.Vllemande), La Caille, the Lyctie. Cuire, rilc-Barbe,
and Quai du Vernav ; maximum fare 55 c. — The Parisiens ply from the
Quai St. Clair (Pl. K", 2-3) to Aix-les-Mains (see p. 266) and froiii tlie Quai
St. Antoine to Chalon-sur-Saone (p. 184). - The Gladiatenr plies from the
Quai de la Charite (Pl. D, E. 5) to Avignon.
Cable Tramways (known as Picelles). Kioni liie Place Salhoiiiiii (PI. 1),3)
to the Crnix-Ilousse (p. 221) every 5 niin.. tare 1(1 c. This small railway
.-iscends about 100 ft. in less llian liaU a mile, and considerably shortens
the distance to the Bourg-Sathonay line which is connected with it, having
booking oflices at the lower end lor both passengers and luggage. Two
trains are attached to the two ends of an iron cable, and by a tixed en-
gine ascend and descend simultanecnislv. -- From the Avenue de I'Arche-
14=i=
•212 ///. liuulc 33. LYONS. Ili^tury.
redid (PI. C, 4) to St. Just; fares 25, lac: 5 c. less on weekdays to the
Station des Minimes (for Fourviere ; p. 214). — Another 'Ficelle' is projected
from tlie Place Tholozan (Pi. E, 3) to the Croi.v-Rousse.
Post Office. The chief offlce is in the Place de la C'haiite' and Place
Bellecour (PI. 1), 5). — Telegraph Office, open day and night, 53 Place de la
Repiibliime. — Telephone, for Paris and JIarseilles, at the Exchange (2 and
11/-.' If- *or 5 uiin. use).
"Theatres. Orand-Thedtre (P\.'D,li,3), Place de laCome'die; TMdtre
desCHestins (PI. I), 4), Place des Celestins; Theatre Bellecour (PI. D, 4,5),
85 Rue de la Kepublique. — Casino, cafe'-chantant, 79 Rue de la Republique.
Baths. I)e la Grotte, 4 Rue .le la C'harite; du Rhone, quai de Ret/,
and Quai de I'Hopital ; i'lianlre, 71 Rue dt- la Re'publiqne. etc.
American Consul, Edmund 13. Fairfield, Esq.; Vice-consul, Thomas
Barbour, Esi/. — British Vice-Consul, Robert Ottlerj, Esq., 10 (^uai ile Ret/..
English Church Service, Holy Trinity Church, t^uai de TEst; chaplain.
Rev. H. Lister.
Lyons (550-1015 ft.), the ancient Lugdimum, formerly the cap-
ital of the Lyonnais , and now of the department of the Rhvite,
with 402,000 inliab., is the second city in France both for size and
for industrial importance, silk being its great staple commodity.
It is also an archiepiscopal see , the headquarters of the 14th
corps d'arm^e, and the seat of an "Academie Uuiversitaive' (with
five faculties). Its importance is due to its magnificent situation at
the confluence of two navigable rivers , the IJhoiie and the Saone,
and on the slopes of hills which are crowned by fortifications.
Lyons was founded by the Greeks in B. C. 560, but its importance
dates only from P. C. 41, when the consul L. JMunatius Plancus commenced
some considerable constructions under orders from the Roman Senate.
Augustus made it the capital of Celtic Gaul. The Roman town occupied
the slope on the right bank of the Saone, now known as Fourvi'ere, from
the Latin Forum vetus. The Emperor Claudius, who was born here, gave
it the rank of a Roman colony (see p. 220l. Nero rebuilt it after a great
fire; and Trajan constrxieted the magniticeul Forum Vetus. Christianity
was first preached by St. Pothinus in the 2nd cent., and afterwards
persecuted under Alarcus Aurelius and still more under Septimius Severus.
After the invasion of the barbarians, Lyons was abandoned by the em-
perors, and owing to its situation and its importance underwent many
misfortunes and changes of masters, until it gave itself up to the king of
France in the beginning of tlie lltli century. From that time ils industry
and commerce considerably developed, but it was again hardly tried by
tlie Italian and Religious wars. After two centuries of coni]>aralive peace,
tliere followed the ill-omened days of the Revolution. Attached to the
ancient regime, Lyons revolted against the Convention, was besieged for
two months in 1793. and comlemned to demolition. To accomplish this as
(juickly as possible Collut d'Herbois. the actor, made use of gunpowder
and grape-shot, but fortunately was prevented liy the fall of Robespierre
from completing his work of destruction and carnage. Lyons rose again from
its niins under Napoleon L, and an \inparalleled period of prosperity
began which was internipted only temporarily by a commercial crisis in
1831, a political insuiipclidu in 1834, and by a terrible inundation in 1856.
From this period ilate the lini- <iuays and great improvements which have
made it one of the handsimirsl of niodeiii cities. I.vous manufactures
annually silk and ether g.n.ds to tlie vain.' ,,f about lU,(l(KUKlt) «. — It is
llie birthplace ol the l';mj>erors Claudius, xMarcus Aurelius, Caracalla, ami
<ieta, of Irena;iis, Sidonius ApoUinaris, SI. Ambrose, Philibert Deloriiie,
Coyzevox, Coustou, IJe Jussieii, Suchct, Ampere, .lacquard, Flandrin, etc.
Lyons is divided by the Hhone and the Saone into three distinct
parts, viz.. the town proper, on the tongue of land between the two
Churrh of Ahnifi. LYON'S. III. novte 33. ?1P)
rivers, iticliuliiig tlie old suburb of I. it Croix-Rmifise (p. 221) on the
liill above; the <iiiartov on the right bank of the Saone , incUuling
FoKiriere and Vaise (p. 187) ; and the quarter on the left bank of
the lllione, includinc; La (IniUotihr (p. 222) and L(s Brotleaux,
(p. 223).
The Perrarhe quarter in wliich is the principal railway station
(PLC, 6), owes its name to a citizen who, at the end of the last century,
enlarged the town by removing farther to the S. the confluence of
the two rivers which was fornierly above where the station now
stands. — In front of the station, extending from one river to the
other, is the spacious C'oiirs du Midi. Adjoining this, opposite the
station, is the Place Perrache, embellished with flower-beds and
four fountains with statues of the Seasons, in the midst of which is
placed a Monument of the Revolution, on a site occupied until
1870 by an equestrian statue of Napoleon I., by Nieuwerkerke. The
Hue Victor-Hugo leads from this point to the Place Bellecour in
the centre of the town.
On the left we pass the Place Ampire, ornamented in 1888 by
a statue, by Textor, of the physician Amjiere (1775-1836). Behind
the Place is —
The Church of Ainay (PI. 0,5), the oldest in Lyons. It was
founded in the 6th cent, on the site of a temple erected to the God-
dess Koma and to Augustus by sixty Gallic tribes, and was rebuilt
in the Romanesque style in the 10th and 11th centuries. The
facade which is ornamented with lozenge-shaped inlaid work, con-
tains three doorways with pointed arches, and a square tower
with four acroteria at tlie base of the spire. There is also a very
low square central tower which is supported by four large an-
cient columns. Of the nave and double aisles the three principal
are vaulted and supported by columns, the others haviufi been added
in the 12th or 13tli century. The apses are decorated with paintings
of Christ and various saints on a gold ground, by //«/>/'. FLandrin.
Ill the choir is a mosai<' of the time of Pascal IL (1099-1 118) ; tlie
high altar in gilt bronze and the line mosaic on which it stands are
both modern. In the I'hapel of the Virgin, to the right, is a carved
altar by Fabisch and a Virgin by J>()iinas.Hieu.r. At the beginning of
the aisle on the left is a fine ancient doorway, aiul opposite to it on
the right a remarkable modern confessional in the Byzantine style.
AVe return to the Uiu^ Victor-Hugo, which brings us to the Place
Bellecour (Bella Curia' ; PI. 0,5), the fashionable promenade of the
town and the centre of the best houses. A military band plays here
every evening in fine weather. In the centre is an equestrian Sfafiie
of Loui'i A'/ v., as a Itoman Kmperor, the masterpiece of Len)ot. a
native of the town (d. 1824). The large buildings on the W. and
H. sides are the Registry Office and Central Post Office. The impos-
ing building on the lieijiht t(i the W. is the new ihnvch of Kour-
viere (p. 214).
'214 ///. Route 3:i. LYONS. N(ilie-I)<niie-(1e-f<riirriire.
At No. 31 ill this Place, on the 3rd floor, is the small Mnsee de la
Propagation de la Foi, coutainiug relics, instruments ol' torture, and an
ethnographical collection , formed of objects sent home by missionaries
(open daily, except Sun. and holidays, 9-5, on Frid. 10-5; ring the
bell). Catalogue.
Next to the Post Office are the Church and Hospice de la Charite
(1217 beds) , founded by Kl^berger, known as ie bou Ailemand',
and erected early in the 17th century.
At the N.E. corner of the Place begin two magnificent modern
streets, the 7t«e de Id Ite'publlque , leading to the Place de la Co-
niedie, and the Uue de V Hotel-de-ViUe, extending to the Place des
Terreaux (p. 217).
If the weather is clear, which unfortunately is not always the case
in Lyons, we turn to the left by the liue de Bellecour, in order to
enjoy the view from Fourviere , and in passing we glance at the
lively and picturesque banks of the Sadne. The winding course of
this river is crossed by 13 bridges and footbridges, while there are
9 across the llhone. The church on tlie right is the Cathedral (see
p. 215). At the end of the Avenue de I'Archevech^, beyond the
Punt de Tilsit (PL C,4), is the unpretending Gare de St. Just or the
Ficelle of Fotirviire and St. Just (see p. 211). If we proceed by
train we save time and avoid a fatiguing ascent (for other routes, see
p. 215). From the uTpyyer Station des Minimes (PLC, 5) we have
7 min. walk, first to the right, tlien to the left, and again to the
right, to the Chapelle de Notre-Dame-de-Fourviire. by the side of
the new church (see below), a comparatively modern edifice without
architectural interest, but much frequented by pilgrims. It contains
a black image of the Virgin, and its walls are entirely covered witli
votive offerings. The tower is crowned by a statue of the Virgin.
From the top (25 c.) there is a fine view, as well as from the new
church and from the neighbouring terraces (see below).
The CliurchofNotre-Daine-de-Fourvifere(Pl.C,4), not yet finished,
iilthough heavy ;iiid ol doubtful taste, is reniiirkable for its origi-
nality. The style is a motlernizcd Byzantine, by Bossaii. It stands
at a height of 400 ft. above the Place Bellecour, or 958 ft. above
the level of the sea. It is 282 ft. long, 114 ft. wide and 124 ft. high
to the platform of the tower. The apse, on the side towards the
town, with a semicircular gallery, is flanked by polygonal towers,
ea<h terminating in a sort of crown. Instead of buttresses there are
four square half-towers, with each of which two columns in the
interior correspond and mark the bays, and on each side of the "W'.
front are towers as at the apse. The facade also contains a rich
portico with four granite monolithic columns, 27 ft. high. The 16
columns of the interior are of blue marble, with bases of white
marble, those of the sanctuary red. The crypt, dedicated to St.
Joseph, extends below the whole building, and is decorated with
mosaics. We may ascend the tower (1 fr.), to the left of the choir,
where there is a disc indicating the chief tibjects in view.
Cnthfihal. LYONS. ///. Roti/e 3:). Qtf)
In clear weatlior tlic *Panorama is superb, extending over more
than 120 M. and embracing, besides the wlioits town and its environs,
to the E. the Alps as far as Mont lUanc, 96 M. distant as the crow
flies, in the direction of the right hand corner of the Place Belle-
cour. to the S.E. the Alps of Dauphin^, to the S. the Cevennes, to
the W. the mountains of Aiivergne, etc.
Except the Loyasse Cenietery (PI. A, 4), about half a mile to the
\\ . of the Church, there is nothing farther of interest on the Four-
viere hill. The huge square building to the S. is the Urnnd St-
niinnire (PLC, 4).
The shortest ami most pleasant descent is by the Fansac/e ihi
Itomire (5 c.) , a winding and shady path bordered hy 15 small
monuments after Bossan with coloured high -reliefs by Fabisch,
representing the mysteries of the Rosary. There is also a Mt. Calvary
here. The path brings us out into the carriage road , the Monteo
St. Barth(51emy, on the other side of which a flight of 242 steps
leads directly to the cathedral.
The Place St. Jean (PL C, 4), in front of the cathedral, is em-
bellished with a beautiful modern white marble fountain in the
Renaissance style, with a group in bronze u ruler cover representing
the Baptism of Christ, after Bonnassieux.
The Cathedral of St. Jean, or Eglise Frhnatiale (PL C, 4), at the
foot of the Fourviere hill, dates from the 12- loth cent, and is the
most remarkable church in Lyons and one of the most interesting
in France. The W. front, to the right of which is the Man^canterie
(see below), has three doorways, the statues of which have been
destroyed ami the small medallions damaged; above these are a
gallery, a Flamboyant rose -window, and two towers without spires
completed at the end of the loth <entnry. There are two other
towers at tin; ends of the transepts. The most remarkable part of
the interior is the <hoir, in the ar<hes and windows o{ which there
i> a combination of the Romanesque and Cothir .styles. The lio-
Mianestiue is found also in the transepts.
The Nave is leiiiaikaljle I'di- its imiity and clfgancf dC ouUiiie. tliougli
Ihi- \V. bays licUiiig to tlie 15lli cent, and ditler Sdiuevvliat tVoiii the rest,
which are. (pf tlie 14lh. Tlie windows consist of lliiee liglits, siumounted
liy three circles. There is a gallery in front as in Xotre-Uauie at Dijoii.
The windows, as well as those in tlie choir, contain uiagnilieent glass of
the 13lh and 14tli cent., and also line modern glass. The two aisles are
not continued beyond the transepts, ami the choir, being too small, has
been enlarged by the addition of two bays from the nave. On the riglit
is seen first a long low chapel belonging to the Mane'canterie. Kext is
the H'liaiiel nf tit. Loiti!. or the Bonrlmn I'liapel, a magnificent work of the
15th cent., due to Cardinal de Uourbon and liis brother Pierre, son-in-
law of I.ouis XI. The glass by Mare'chal is modern. Among the works
of art in the church must be mentioned the modern marble statues of
St. .John and St. Stephen, and the archbishop's stall, also modern, after
Bossan, in the choir; an astronomical clock of the 16-17th cent, in the
left transept; a copy of Domenichino's JIailyrdom of St. liartholomevv, in
the .5th chapel on tiie left; a votive picture by Orsel, reiiresenting Lyons
spared by the cholera, at the side door on the left; and a modern marble
'2\C) III. Route 3:]. LYONS. llnlel. de Vllle.
l)ull)it alter Chenavard, in the nave. Tlie two pi'ucessioual crosses at
eacli end of the high altar have remained there since 1274, tlie date of
the second fEcunienical Council of Lyons (the 1st having been held in 1245),
as a sign of the union of the Greek and Latin ("'hnrches. an oliject vvhieli
was only i)arlially attained by (he conneil.
The M<uic'caiilevtc or Choristers' buildings (Lat., mane cnnfare
to sing ill the nioriiiiig), to tlie right ol' this W. front ol' the cathedral,
has a curious fa(,'a(le of the lltli I'ciit. with inlaid work and arcading.
It has unfortunately been mutilated and badly restored.
Near the cathedral, higher up on the same side of the Saone, is
the Palais (h Justice (PLC, 4), a iieavy building in the classical
style with a peristyle of 24 Corinthian columns. The interior is
also unsatisfactory.
The bridge close by brings us to the Quai des C^lestins on the
left bank, on which is the Theatre des Ce'lestins (Pi. D , 4), twice
burnt down since 1871 and rebuilt on the plans of Andr^. The
fagade is pleasing, with busts of Scribe, Alfred de Musset . and
Victor Hugo.
Li the Place in front of the theatre is a cast-iron Fountain, the
basin of which is supported by caryatides.
A little to the left we reach the Place des Jacobins (PL D. 4),
embellished with a charming marble fountain, in the Renaissance
style, by Andre.
On the other side runs the Rue de V Hotel-de-Yille , already
mentioned (p. 214), which we follow to the N. or left.
The Church of St. Nizier (PI. I), 3), to the left of this street,
is the ancient cathedral, rebuilt in the Oothic style in the 15th cent,
except the central portal, a heavy addition of the 16th cent, by
Phil. Delorme. The statues on the W. front are by Fabiscb and
Bonnassieux. The fine spire of the S. tower is also modern. The
interior consists of nave and aisles, transepts, and side -chapels.
The nave and apse contain a fine triforium, a lofty vaulted roof
with a network of ribs, and coloured bosses. The pulpit, high altar,
and stained glass by CL Lavergiie are good modern works. In the
chapel to the right of the choir is a statue of the Virgin by Coy/.evox.
in that to the left one of St. Pothinus by Chinard.
The Hue de I'Hotel-de-Ville , passing on the left the Palais St.
IMerre or des Arts (see below), ends at the —
Hdtel de Ville (PL D, 3), a handsome edilice. built by Maupin of
]>yoiis 1 1(34(5-1 ()55). burnt in 1674, restored in 1702 by H. Mansard,
and recently by Desjardins. The principal fa(;ade, in the Place des
Terreaux (see below), is riclily decorated with an equestrian statue
of Henri IV. by Legen<lre-li^ral. and sculptures by I'abisch, Ron-
naire, and Honnet. Behind rises tlie singular Tour de I'llorloge to
the heiglit of 130 ft. in the vestibule are colossal bronze statues of
the Saone and the Rhone, by Coustou. formerly at the foot of the
statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecoiir. The front facing the
Place de la Coniedii' (p. 221). rebuilt b\ MaU'^ard . i-^ more elegant
.U»,»(Vs. LYONS. ///. Eovh .13. '2\~
ami loss protoiitions. Ft consists of a centre and two wiiifjs with Infty
roofs, coniiectetl by three arcades, whicli are suriiioiinted by a gal-
lery with a balustrade.
Till' I'hice. (If» Terre<tu.r (Fl.I),r>) is next in importance to the
Place ISellecoiir, and is also ornamented by a modern monumental
fountain. It was liere that in 1642 Cinq-Mars and De Thou were
beheaded by l!ichelieu"s orders on a charge of treason, and that in
1794 the a:uiliutiiie was at work, until it was found to be too slow
for the number of victims and frrape-shot took its place.
The Palais St. Pierre or des Arts (PI. r),3). on the S. side of the
Place, is a hng;e buililing of the 18th cent., recently restored. It
formerly belonged to the Dames Benedictines, and their fine refec-
tory has been preserved (see p. 218). In the centre is a courtyard,
now a public garden, surrounded by ])rojecting colonnades.
The important *Mus68S wJiicli the building contains, together
with the Library, comprise two I'lctme Lidlletle", a Scidpture
Gallery, a Cotlerfioit of Aiidqxitles, dCollecfion of Marbles, anil a
\atural History Collrrtioii. The two first and the last are open
daily 11-4. the others on Sun.. Thurs.. and holidays, 11-4, or to
strangers daily. As it is difticult to see all in one visit, the visitor
who has not much time is recommended to see first the picture
gallery on the 2nil floor. thiMi tliat on the 1st floor, and the museum
of antiquities, etc.
Ground Flook.
In the Vestibule are reliefs representing Strengtli and Law. by DMnlt,
I'rom tlie niunnnient "f Xapolenn 1.. fdrmerly in the Place I'erraclie fp. 213).
The Collection of Marbles, under llic arcades, contains ancient in.scrip-
tions. fra;inienls nf sculpture, stelse , sarcophagi, altai'.s. terracotta vases,
etc. The collection of inscriptions, wliich all belong to the locality, is
both in size and in importance the most valuable in France.
Sculpture Gallery. On the Porticoes are bas-reliefs, alter the antique,
and medallions of famous natives of Lyons. — In the Garden is a fountain,
with a statue of Apollo, by Vietly , and other bronze statues, including,
to the right. Delliomme, Democritus: Cugnot, IJeturn from a liacchanalian
festival: Oiiret, Chaetas at the tomb of Atala; Conrtet, Female centaur
and faun: to the left. Desrhamp, Discobolos; Le/jendre-flrral , (iiotto as
a child; Uelorme, Flute-player. — The tlallery is opposite the entrance,
on the other side of the garden. — VESTinULE. Ancient architectural
fragments. — 1. Room. Mediwval and Renaissance sculptures, etc.:, two
IGth cent, chimney-pieces: the Annunciation, two figures in painted wood,
Italian works of the 14th cent. : the Virgin and Child, in a rich frame. —
II. Room. .\ (ireco-Phfenician mummy-shaped sarcophagus-, Roman sarco-
phagi; the best No. 3. on the ri^.;ht, with a representation of the Triumph
of Bacchus: to the left. No. 1:"). a large mosaic representing the games
of the Circus; a Hreek altar; cinerary urns, etc. — III. Room. 12. 13.
15, 10. Cliinard, IJaechantes , Perseus delivering Andromeda; 39. A. de
Gravillon, The Ass's skin; 14. Chinard, Centaur tamed by the Genius of
Into.xication, after the antique; 23. Foyatier, (Hrl; 54. Vieity, The Nymph
of the Seine: 46, 43. Lefjeudre-Heral, Minerva, from the antique; Leda
and Jupiter; 42, Ch. Janson , Bacchus and (,'upid ; 19. Cortnt, Pandora;
.50. Pradier, ()<lalisque; 47. (Hira, St. Vincent de Paul: 26. Delnrme, Psyche
gathering flowers: 35. Fahiseli , Beatrice: 44. f.egeniire - Hi'ral, Kiirydice
wounded: 38. Foyalier , Oiil playing with a kid. In the centre: 27. J>e-
lurine^ llercurv. — IV. Room, on the other side of the vestibule, is the
218 111. nijitic :i:i. LYONS. Mnsees.
original Refectory of the. Dames de St. Pierre, remarkable for the life-
size reliefs by Blanchei, representing Saints and Biblical scenes, and the
two large paintings at the ends by CrHet, Feeding of the Multitude and
the Last Supper. It contains two ancient mosaics, and busts Uabelled)
of 45 distinguished natives of Lyons.
Second Floor.
'Picture Gallery. — The staircase is at the end of the cross passage to
the left. At the top are paintings by Piiris de Cliarannes, Sacred grove of
the Muses, Vi.'5i<]n, Christian Inspiration. — *Gr.EAT Gaixery: to the right,
237. Granet^ Choir of a Fj-auciscan church in Rome : 240. Jlemier, Jesus at
the tomb; 211. Dauhiijiiy, Sea-piece: 213. Delacroix, Last moments of Marcus
Aurelius; 204. Couibet, Scene in a wood; 212. David, A market-gardener;
236. Granet, Savonarola; 200. Charlet, Kpisode in the retreat froinllussia;
223. Droliny, The good Samaritan; 283. Rig ami , Vortrail of a Man; 221,
222. Desportes, Animals and fruit; *291. £m. ran Maicke , The Return of
the Hock; 246. Largilliere, I'drtrait; 2.58. Mignard, Portrait of himself;
293, Vnnet, Crucifix; 238. Gren-e, Portrait of himself; *242, Jourenet, The
cleansing of the Temple; 141. J. Ruysdael, Scene in Norway; 244. Jouvenei,
SI. Bruno; 1.59. \Veeiiix , A bouquet; 188. A. ran Dyck, Portrait; 107. Dji-
Jardin, Shepherd protecting, his flock; 105. J. van Iluysnm, Flowers, etc.;
95. J. van Ilagen, Forest scene ; 78. Ph. de Champaigne, The Last Supper; 61.
Tit. van Bergen, Pasture; 142. Uyckaert, Avarice; 104. Huysmans, Landscape;
114. Conning, The SaeriUce of Manoah ; 97. /^« 7/e«Ht, The Prince of Orange,
afterwards William III. of England; not numbered, Flemish or Dutch
,School, Portrait; 92. Hverdingen, Landscape; 132. Qnellyn , St. Jerome in
the desert; 153. W. van de Velde, Sea-piece; \'an Oost , 127. An old man in
meditation, 128. A young man receiving a note; 120. Mierevelt, Portrait
of a woman ; *80. de Champaigne, Adoration of the shepherds ; **136. Rubens,
St. Francis, St. Dominic, and other saints preserving the world from the
wrath of Jesus Christ; 121. Mierevelt, 139. Rubens (V), Portraits; 71. 'VelveV
Brueghel, The Air and 74, 73, *72. the three other Elements: 110. Joi-
daens. Mercury and Argus; 'SI. De Crayer, St. Jerome; Jordaens, *108. Jesus
in the manger, *109. The Visitation; *137. Rubens, Adoration of the Magi :
no number, /'. Potter, Animals; 8S. Van Dyck, Two heads; 83. Cuyp, Still
life; *151. Teniers the Younger, Deliverance of St. Peter; 99. De Ileem,
Fruit"; 152. Terburg, The Errand ; ^144. Snyders, A kitchen table; 55. Mu-
rillo. Fruit ; 54. Cano, Annunciation ; 58. Zurbaran, St. Francis of Assisi ; *36,
Ribera, Saint in ecstasy; 21. Giordano, St. Luke painting the Virgin; *39.
Sassof errata, Jesus asleep; *27. Palma Vecchio, Titian's mistress ; '*b. Guercino,
Circumcision: 13. Canlassi, or Cagnacci, Death of Lucretia; below, *Vn-
knnun Italian Master, Portrait; *28. J'alina the Younger, Scourging of Christ;
33. Guide Reni, Crueifi-xion of St. Peter; *3o. Tintoretto, Virgin, Child
and saints (ex voto); 0. /'. da Cortona, Cuesar repudiating Pompeia before
*Uili)urnia ; Vanmicci or Pentgino, 31. St. Herculanus and St. James the Great-
er, ' '45. The Asceusiiin, the gem of the collection : ''41. Andrea del .Sarto,
Sacrilice of Abraham; Paolo Veronese, *8. Moses saved from the water, *9.
Bathsheba at the bath, 10. Adoration of the Magi; *36. Tintoretto, Danae ;
16. Ag. Varracci, A canon; 3. Correygio (V), Virgin; 15. L. Cariacci, Baptism
of Jesus; 23. after Giotto, The Navicella ; »42. Scannabechi, Descent from
the Cross; 185. Unknown German Master, Jesus bearing the Cross; 116.
Mat.<^ys (!), Jesus crowned with thorns; 50. Unknown, St. Jerome; 166. Un-
known German Master, Descent from the Cross; '*186, '186.\. Schooreel,
Death and Coronation of the Virgin; '87. -jiiier Albert Diirer, Ex- voto.
The Emperor Maximilian I. and his wife, kneeling before the Virgin
with the infant Jesus, etc., a copy with variations of a picture at Prag\ie
(on the right is the artist, with aninsciption) ; 168. Unknown German Master,
Death of the \irgiu; 187 Flemish School of the 15th Cent., Virgin and Child;
102. Jlolbein (V), Portrait; 163. Zegers, Altar with vase of llowers. Then
F.arly German School, Twenty scenes from the life of Christ, Pentecost,
and Death ol the \irgin: and 49, Parly Italian School, Virgin and angels.
The C\i. 1.1:11; M.s LvoNKAis, beside the preceding, contains paintings
Musees. LYONS. ///. /.'(/«/<■ X'. '219
liy native artists. — Koom I.: 489. Hey, Vienne in tlie Uomun period; 327
James Jiertrand, Conversion of St. Thais. — To tlie, riijlit of the entrance to
this room is another containing drawings and water-coloui-s. — R. II. : 360.
Chaliynii, \'iews in Lyons; 370. Cornu, Augustus granting a charter to Gaul;
479. J'uiis de Charannes, Autumn. — II. III. : Landscapes and flower-pieces;
59. Stella, Adoration of tlie angels; 497. St. Jean, Emblems of the Kuchari.st ;
343. Bonnefond, The wicked landlord; 461. 0/sW, Finding of Mnses; 346.
BoHiiefond, Holy water; 498. St. Jean, Oflering to the Virgin; 460. Orsel,
Adam and Kve" with the body of Abel; 307. Hail, The fanfare of Bois-le-
Koi; 433. Jacquand , tlie Avowal; 471. -1. Ferret, Baptism in the Bresse ;
38. liiard, Sybil; 456. Montess.uy,'Ei\k: ofC'erbara in the Apennines; 'SI. Bonne-
fond, Jatquard; 448. Lortet, Mont Blanc; 376. Dubuisson, Canal horses; 369.
Conite , Henri of Guise vowing to avenge the assassination of his father;
390. 7/i>/i. I'landrin, Dante in Hell; Paul Flandrin, Penitents; 474. I'oncet,
I'ortrail of II. Flandrin; 392. //. flandrin, Kuripides; 325. J. Bertrand,
Bodies of the Martyrs.
Fui.'sx Floor.
The Gai,ei!ie Ciii:kavaki>, to the left as we descend from the 2nd
lloor, is a continuation of (he preceding. Of the four rooms the last thi-ee
are specially devoted U> cartoons designed by the Lyons artist P. Chenavard,
for the I'antheon at Paris after the Bevolution ofF'ebruary, but not exe-
cuted owing to the restoration of the building to ilivine service. The de-
signs, only 36 of which are e.xhibited. illustrate the history of civilisation
from the Oeation to the French Revolution, and are distinguished by dignity
i)f ct)nception and clearness of composition. — Room 1. contains several large
paintings for which there is no room in the collection on the second
lloor. — The Chenavard Cartoons represent: 1. The Flood; 3. Zoroaster; 6-8.
Trojan War; 10. Hippocrates; 11. Socrates; 13. Early Rome; 14. Brutus
ciuidemning his son; 15, 16. Carthage and Scipio; 17. Cato of Utica; 18.
.lulins Caesar; 19. Augustan Age; 20. Jesus Christ; 21. The Catacombs;
22. The Apostles; 23. Constantine; 24. Theodosius and St. Ambrose; 25.
.\ttila; 26. Mahomet; 27. Gregory VII.; 28. The Crusades; 29, Rutli ; 31.
I'rinting; 33. Age of Leo X. ; 34. Luther; 3o. Age of Louis XIV. ; 36. Voltaire ;
37. Xapoleon; ;*. Philos<iphy of History ; 39. Purgatory; 40. Hell; 41. The
llesurrection; 42. Paradise. The last subjects were designed for tlie floor.
The 'ICus6e Bernard, the entrance to which is opposite that of the
Galerie Clienavard. ccintains a collection of paintings presented to the
town in 1875 by M. Bernard, formerly maire of La (juillotiere. The j)aint-
ings in the lirst three rooms, however, not forming part of this collection,
are pictures of secondary importance, crowded out of the gallery on tin-
second lloor. Among them are, in R. I., 207. Court, Flood; 29. 'Calaljrest
(Malteo J'reti), Death of Sophonisba; 233. Baron (Irrard , Corinna at the Cape
of MiseiHim; 11. C. Caliari (son of Paolo Veronese), Queen of Cyprus
entering Venice in state; in R. II., 206. Courbet, Sea-piece. In 1!. III. are
some casts and a mummy.
In the rooms of the Musee Bernard we begin in eacli at the i-ight, op-
posite the entrance, and proceed to the left. Room I. FMiENCH School. 1.
Ent. Adam, Bandmaster; 24. (to the left of the window) L. David, Ship-
wreck; 14. Chardin, Interior; 38. (at the door) Greuze, Daughter of the
arlist, in fancy costume; 41. La Hire, Madonna and Child; 60. Putjtl,
I'nrlrait of the artist. A number of paintings are still uncatalogued.
Room II. ; Italian School. 134. Sassoferrato, Jesus asleep; 135. liap/iael
IV), Madonna and Child with John the Baptist; 156. liibera , Christ widi
I he reed: 121. I'alma Vecchio, Virgin and Saints; 101. Cantarini, Death of the
Virgin; 159. Zurbaran, Praying monk; 129. Cluido Heni (!), St. liruno: 140.
Tiirchi, David triumphant; 143. Andrea del Sarto (?), Madonna and child:
116. Mabusc, Same subject; '109. Crivelli, Same subject ; 123. Pellegrini the
Elder, Holy Family: 153. Cano , Dead Christ; 145. Ihnnenichino , Angelica
and Medoro; 141. P^ del Vaga (!). Madonna and Chililwith St. .lohn : 128.
I'liliyo, Virgin; 155. ifnrillo (!). Cliilil wi(h pKcher : 13i. SiUaiia, JIadoniia
and Child; 127. Busmno , .\d()ralion of the Magi: 111. lunoienzo da Jmula,
2'30 III. Rdule .13. LYONS. yfrnenm of Aniiqnnks.
Holy Family: 122. Panini, Ruins: 98. Paolo Veronese, .Tesu.s at the house
of Simon tlie Phari.sce , advanced sketch; 103. L. Carracci, Holy family;
142. PerugiiiOy St. .Tolin the Evangelist ; 107. Cesari, Andromeda; 126. Bas-
saiio. Adoration of the shcplierds.
Room 111. , cimtaining a fine antiijue mosaic. Italian School. 105.
Annibale Cnrracn\ Rppentancc of SI. Peter: 132. Tintorettn, Portrait of him-
self; 144. Titian, Pan and Syren; 224. Van Oi-leij , Holy Family (after
Raphael); 114. L- (liunlann, Venus ahandoned by Bacchus and Ceres; 187.
Bril, Elysium; 131. Remip.), Jesus asleep; 97. Pietro da Cortona, Nativity
of the Virgin; 108. Cesari (il Oiosepino) , Jesus in Gethsemane; 98. Pietro
cte Corirt/iaT Marriage of tlie Virgin ; 154. Domingo, The duel; 140. Francia,
Virgin; 158. Ribera, Old woman holding a glass; 99. Paolo Veronese {?),
Jupiter and Leda; 14J6. Ziiccari, Annunciation : *124. Piazietta, Cream-eaters ;
157. Ribera, St. Jerome.
Room IV. : Flemish School. 186. Velvet Brueghel and Rotienhammer,
Angels; 315. J. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 257. Brackenbiirgh,lx\iev\or; 287.
W. van Mieris , Malice; 316. Jacob van Ruysdael, Landscape; 334. Victors,
Interrupted sleep; 23. (on an easel), Dagnan-Boureret, Wedding -party at
a photographer's; 207. Jordaens, Portrait; 283. Cuyper, Fruit and porcelain;
Branwer, 2^. Surgeon, 200. Drinker; 162. Denner, Portrait of an old woman;
12. LebruH, Descent from the cross; 310. fl«m6ra«d<, Portrait; 201. Goltzins,
Magdalen; 230. Ryckaert, Musician.
Room V.: Flemish School. 170. Holbein, A donor; 227. Ommegancl;,
At the pond; 278. Van Goyen, Landscape; *:;19. Josse de Momper, Chapel
in a grotto (figures by Ilellfire Brueghel); 2i5. Cornelis Bega , Musician
drinking; 222. Ommeganck, Return to the farm; 169. Holbein, The donor;
314. Sorgh, Interior; Dusart , •212. Drinkers, 271. Dancing: 197. Frans
Francken, John the Baptist preaching; 167. Dietrich, Flight into Egypt; 75.
Toepffer, Re-establishment of religion after the Revolution; *281. Honi-
horst. Singers; 227. Rubens, Assumption; 198. Frans Francken, Christ as-
cending C'alvary; 235. Teniers the lounger. Kitchen interior; ^181. Belle-
gambe. The Trinity (triptych); 199. Frans Francken, Wedding at Cana:
274. Gerard de Lairesse, Achilles at the court of Nicomedon.
Room VI. : Flemish and German Schools, etc. 285. Lucas van Leyden,
Ascension; 174. Cranach, Game of chess; 273. Van der F.yck, Allegory of
the great Protestant Synod at Dort in 1618; 171. Mengs, Portrait of Car-
dinal Archinto; 262. Brenkelenkamp, Cobblers; 198. Frans Francken, Mas-
sacre of the thousand virgins; 178. English School (l). Guard-room interior;
189. Van Di/ck, Virgin with angels: 269. Hals, Village wedding; 183. Van
der Bosch, Alchemist: 193. Van Dyck (T), Portrait; 204. Van Helmont, Fete
champetre: 288. W. ran Mieris, Portrait; 308. Rarestein, Portrait; 49. Van
Loo, Diana and her companions detecting Callisto ; then some small genre
pictures of less iuipnrtance.
HodM \'ll., shut on ordinary days, contains engravings, etc.
* Museum of Antiquities. — This adjoins the preceding museum and
has a separate enlrancf l)y the staircase which leads from the gallery of
the gro\ind-lloor to the gallery of the second story. — Room 1. Rich col-
lection of medals, marble frieze representing suovetaurilia (sacrifices of
a pig, sheep, and o.\); masks, busts, a Diana, etc. — Room 11. Egyptian
mummy and sarcopliagus, Egyptian statuettes, series of medals, etc. To
the left. Etruscan and Greek vases. First hexagonal glass-case: jewels
and antique cameos. To the left, glass and antique bronzes. Second
he.xagonal glass-case: set of "jewels, gold necklaces and bracelets. To
the left, bronze statuettes. In the middle, mirrors, various bronzes, in-
cluding a crater, a 'Koctilus or portable brasier. a *Head of Juno and
a *Juplter or Neptune. — Boom III., to the left near the middle of the
preceding. Bronze *Tablet, bearing a large part of the speech pronounced
by the Emperor Claudius in approval of the demand made by Gallia
(.'omaia to have the right of sending members to the Roman senate; frag-
ments of mosaics. — Room IV. Mediaeval objects, chielly church orna-
ments; Italian bmnzes of the 16th cent.; bas-reliefs, medallions, French
bronzes of the 15-17tli cent.; locksmith's work of the 16th cent.: manu-
ralfii)' fir la JioniM'. LYO^S. ///. Hoiite :J3. 221
siipls and cutlers. — Room V. About 40 ui agnilicf ut I^iuiiiges enamels,
besides a triiitych vvitli 27 uuii-e : very line ivories, sacred vessels of the
15lli and 16tli cent., Venetian glass, oriental and other weapons of the
14-17th cent. — Koom VI. Furniture of the 16th century. — Koom VII.
To (he left, very fine chimney-piece of tlie 16th cent., and various me-
diaval and Renaissance sculptures. — Room VIII. Continuation of fur-
niture, and door of carved wood of the 16th cent.; ancient Japanese,
I'ersian, and Italian porcelain; pottery of various kinds, including two
laige bowls of I'alissy ware.
The Mufeuiii of Xaiuial llistonj is on the other side of the main stair-
case, in the corner of the right wing, though some of the e.xhibits are
on the second floor. The articles bear e.vplanatory labels.
Tlie Library occupies the first floor between the collections of natural
history and of antiquities. It numbers about 50,(XX) vols., and is espe-
cially rich in works on art, science, industry, and arcliteology. It con-
tains also about 40,000 engravings and drawings. — The second floor on
this side is occupied by the Ecole des Beaux-Arts.
The Church of Sf. Peter (Pi. D,3), in the lUie St. Pierre, beside
the Palais des Arts, dates from the 17th cent , with the exception
of a Iloiuaiiesquc portal of the 9th.
A short distance to the N.W. of the Place des Terreaux is the
Place Satlionay (PL D,3), enibellislied with a bronze statite, by
Foyatier. of Jarquard (1752-1834). inventor of the Jacquard loom.
— A little farther on is the former Jardiii dc^ IHuiifes, now a square,
and to the right are the Gare de Sathomnj and tlie Gare de la Fi-
celle de la Cruix- Rousse (p. 210). Tlie uninteresting quarter of La
Croir-RousHe, on the eminence to the N. of the town, is chiefly in-
habited by workmen in the silk-factories, who are popularly known
as Canut:<.
Quitting the Place de Terreaux by the street skirting tlie side
of the Hotel de Ville, we reach the small Flare de la C'ome'die, in
front of the Grand Theatre (Pl.l).3,4), built in 1827-30, with ar-
cades occupied by shops. -~ A little farther on is the Place Tholo-
7.an, on the right bank of the Rhone, etc. (comp. p. 222).
We now enter the Rue de la liepnblique wliich runs parallel
with the line de I'lIotel-de-A'ille , from the Place de la C'onn^die to
the Place IJelcour (p. 222). This new street is one of the hand-
somest in Lyons.
The Palais de la Bourse et du Commerce (PLD,3,4), to the left
as we approach from the Place do la Cornedie, is one of the most
striking buildings in the town. Of comparatively recent construction,
it is built in a modified Renaissance style, after plans by Dardel.
Tlie two facades, with huge pavilions with pointed roofs, are im-
posing, but somewhat heavy. The interior, which is more interest-
ing, is arranged not unlike the ground-noor of the Bourse at Paris.
The square central court, in which members o\ the Bourse meet
for business . is enclosed by two -storied porticoes. Above are the
windows. Hanked by 24 colos.-.al wooden carjatides. by lionnet,
supporting tlie painted ceiling. Eiglit statues beneath the porticoes,
by Bonnassieux, Fabisch, and l{oubaiix, represent the Elements and
the Seasons. The clock is adorned with three white marble statues
22'2 in. Route 33. LYONS. Montnn. dela Republ.
by Bonnassieiix, reprpsiMitiiig the Past Hour, the Present Hour, and
the Hour to come. Business-hours ll-12'/2.
On the first floor are the Tribunal de Commerce and the Conseil
des Prud'hommes, aTid on tlie second is the Mxseuni of Art and
Ind'Mtry. open to the public on Sun., Thurs. , and holidays from
11 to 4, and to strangers on other days also, except Monday. The
entrance is at the N. facade, in the Place de la Bourse.
The Museum, whicli has a special library, comprises collections of
objects of art, originals and copies, connected with various branches of
art applied to industry. The specimens in illustration of the silk -cul-
ture and silk -manufacture are particularly instructive. Explanatory in-
scriptions are attached to all the exhibits.
The second facade of the Bourse fronts the Place des Cordeliers,
in which rises the Church of St. Bonnventura (Pl.E, 4), of the
15th century. In the interior are some finely coloured windows,
by Steinheil, Thibaud, Lorin, etc.; while the balustrades of the
chapels, and the moilern altars on each side of the choir, adorned
with bas-reliefs, are noteworthy.
The Monument de la R6publique rises in the small Place de la
Republique, in the following section of the street (Pl.D, 4). The
monument, erected in 1889 from designs by the sculptor Peynef
and the architect Blnref, consists of a column, 50 ft. in height, sur-
mounted by a bronze statue of the Republic, 20 ft. high, while at
the foot are a fountain and four marble groups, representing the
Town of Lyons, Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity.
Farther on, to the left, is the Theatre BeUerour (PI. I), 4, 5,),
with a large loggia, beyond whicli we enter the Place Bellecour
(p. 213). — Turning now to the left, we reach the right bank of the
Rhone, which presents an imposing view with its broad q lays and
busy bridges. The district on the opposite bank, known as La
(hiUlotifve, contains little of interest, beyond the new buildings of
the Ecole de Me'derhie (PI. E, 6). which rise beside the river. Farther
up is the quarter of Les Brotteaux (see below).
To our left, on the right bank, rises the huue Hulef Dien or
Hospital (PI. D, E, 5,4), originally founded in the 0th century. The
present facade was designed by Sonftlot. and is embellished with
groups representiuK the Rhone and the Saoiie, by C. Elschoet. The
Church, in the Placo df I'llopital, to the E., contains a noteworthy
pulpit, marble sculptures, and a tine ciborium.
Higher up, on the same bank, is the T.ijctp. (Pl.E,;)), containing
the Mnnicipal. Library, of 200,000 vols, and 2400 MSS. (open daily,
except holidays, 10-3). Beyond is the Place Tholozan (Pl.E,3),
embellished with a bronze statue. byDumont, of Marshal Suchef
(1772-1826). The Pont Morand leads from this square to the Place
Morand (Pl.E, 3), in which is a stone fountain, by Desjardins,
comprising two large and five smaller basins, with geniuses and a
statue of Lyons, by Honuet.
Pare delaTHe-cVOi: LYONS. UJ.IloHle33. 2'23
This latter sqiiaro is situatert ia the handsome modern quarter
of /vM Broffemix. which lies between La Guillotiere on the S., and
the Pare dc la Tete-d'Or (see below), on the X.E. The Hue de Ven-
dome, a street erossing the Cours Morand , leads to the right to
the Church of St. Pothinus (PI. F, 3) in the classic style, and
passes near a Monument (Pl.F, 3) to the; victims of the siege of
1793; to the left it leads to the Church of the Redemption (PI. K,
F,2), in the style of the 13th century.
The *Parc de la Tdte-d'Or (Pl.F, G, 1,2) is aline park of 280
acres, occupying a site once covered with marshes, but now pro-
tected, like Les P.rotteaux, from the destructive floods of the Rhone,
by an immense dike, erected at a cost of over 100,000 L Though
dating only from 1856 it has already some fine trees; and a large
central lake, with islainls, gives it a certain resemblance to the Bois
de lloulogne at Paris. A portion of the park, farthest from the river,
has been formed into Zoological and Botanical Gardens. It con-
tains also an Observatory, a chalet-restaurant, etc. The railway to
Geneva skirts the E. side of the Park.
The circular space in front of the entrance to the park is em-
bellished with the Monument des Enfants du Rhone, erected in
memory of 1870-71. It consists of a bronze group surmounting a
pedestal, decorated with a bas-relief of a dying lion, and surround-
ed with a hemicycle. The sculptures are by Pagni/; tiie general
design by Coffuct.
Environs. Tlie envimns of Lyons, especially the hanks of the Saone,
are picturesque and sprinkled with pleasant country-houses. An agree-
able excursion may be made by steamer to the lie Barbe (p. 187), below
which is a large weir. The island itself is comparatively uninterestini;,
as is also St. Rambert, opposite it on the right bank, with the e.xception
of the church.
Another interesting excursion may be made to the Afoni-d'Or, to the
\., with its three principal summits, Afont Ceindre (1530 ft.), Motit-Houx
(200') ft.), and Mont -Verdun (2050 ft.), commanding fine views. .\ public
conveyance (50-00 c.) plies from Lyons (Rue de la Platii're 9) to (41/.2 M.)
St. Cyrau-Mont-d" Or. Thence Mont-C'eindre (restaurant on the top) "may
be ascended in 40 min. , Mont-Houx in 50min. more, anil Jlont -Verdun
in 40 min. from the last. We may return by train from Cou/.on (p. 187). —
Cliarbonnihe.i., see below.
From Lyons to Dijon (and Paris), see R. 27; to AforseiUen^ U. 61; to
.V7me.5, K. 58; to Geneva^ R. 3B; to Aix-lea- Bains, R. 37; to Cliambery, R. 44;
to dreunhle, R. 49: to Clermont-Ferrand and Bordeaux, R. 34; to Toulouse,
R. .35; to Hourg, via Sathonay, p. 18^.
FuoM Lyons to Montkrison , 49 J[. , railway in 3V»-33/4 l>rs. (fares
9 fr. 70, 7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 30 c.). — The train starts from the Gare St. Paul
(PLC, 3) and passes through a tunnel, ;'/4 M- I'lug, under the hill of
Konrviere. — Heyond (II/4 JI.) Liinn-Gorge-ilu-Loup we cross the line to
Paris and enter another tunnel. 1/4 JI. in length. ~ 51/2 i*'- Charbonniferes,
a picturesquely situated village with a cojd chalybeate spring, much
frequented liy the Lyoiuiais. — 14 JL L'Arbresle (p. 197) is also a station
on the line from Roanne to St. (leriiiain-aM-Mont-d'Or and Lyons. —
The line now ascends the valley of the Bri'venne. — .\bo\it I1/4 iM. to the
X.E. of (16 M.) Sain - Bel is the village of Sarigny , formerly celebrated
for its abbey, of which few traces now remain. Much copper and sul-
phur is produced in this district. — Heyond (21 M.J Courzieux the valley
2'2i ///. Route 33. CUExMlEU.
becduies iiarmw and picturesque, and we pass six viaducts and three
tunnels. 261/2 M. Ste. Foy-VArgentUre has an ancient castle and some
coal-mines. Beyond (31 M.) Meijs we quit the valley of the Krevenne,
and enter that of the Anzieux, a tributary of the Loire. — 39i/.j M. Montrond
is also a station on tlie line fi-om Roanne to St. Etienne (p. 197). We
now cross the Loire, near the ruined castle of Montrond, and traverse a
plain studded with ponds. — 49 M. Montbi-ison, see p. 229.
FiioM Lyons to Tkevou.x , 16 M., railway in l-li/4hr. (fares 2 fr. 65,
2 fr., 1 fr. 50 c). — The train starts from the Gave de Sathonay (PI. D, 2).
We pass Ciiire, Montessny, Caluire, Le Vernay, and numerous other stations
in the environs of Lyons, and many country-houses and factories. —
Beyond (4i/3 M.) Sathonay (p. 189) , we reach the bank of the Saone.
101 /o Ji. Neuville-sur -Saone, witli 3250 inhab., is also a station on the line
from Paris to Lyons. — 16 M. I'revoux, see p. 187.
From Lyons to St. Genix-d'Aoste, 441/0 51., railway in 21/2 "3V4 h''S-
(fares 8 fr. 85. 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 90 c). — This local line , "starting from its
station in La Guillotiere (p. 210), traverses a flat and uninteresting district
to the S.E. of Lyons. — l»/4 M. Villeuibanne CVillaDrbana'), with 14,715 in-
habitants. 5 M. DMnes; 7i/o M. Meyzieur, with a chateau; 11 M. Pusignan,
witli a ruined castle; 13 >I. Janneyrias, also with a ruined castle. At
(16 M.) Pont - de - Cheruy - Tignieu we cross the Bourbre. — 20 M. Crdmieu
(Hotels), a decayed town with 1838 inhab. , retains its walls dating from
tlie 14-15th cent, and some remains of mediseval buildings. Near (26 M.)
Trept rises a medieval chateau. Beyond (281/3 M.) Hablonni'eres diverges
the line to Amberieu and Montalieu (p. 261). 32 M. Passin possesses a
handsome modern cliateau. We next cross the branch-line from Virieu-
le-('<rand to Pressins (p. 261). — 441/.2 M. St. Genix-d'Aoste is an industrial
village with 1858 inhab., about I1/4 JL from the town of Aoste (p. 261).
34. From Lyons to Bordeaux.
a. Via Roanne, Montlucon, and Limoges.
392 M. Railway in 17 lirs. (fares 76 fr. 90, 57 fr. 70, 42 fr. 85 c). —
The trains start from the (iare de Perrache.
Lyons, sec p. '210. — To (98 M.) Sf. Ger>nain-des-Fosse» , see
j)|i. 197-19.5. — From St. Genuaiii-des-Foss^s to (15 M.) Gannaf,
sec p. 204. — Beyond Ganiiat we follow the Orleans line and return
for a short distance in the direction of St. Germain, then ascend to
the left, with a fine view (0 the right. The line redesccnds and
passes through tliree tunnels between two viaducts, the latter of
which spans the Sionle. The district traversed is varied, with a
succession of picturesque valleys and plateaux, more or less well-
wooded. ~ 119 M. (from Lyons) Sif. liunnet-Kbreuil. whence a new
line is to run to Varennes via St. Tour(,'ain (p. 1951. KbreiiU, S'/aM.
to the S.W. (diligence 50 c), lias an ancient ahbey-church. Near
St. Bonnet is the 15th cent. Chdfean of liochefort, and 4'/2 M.
beyond Ebreuil the Chateau of Veauce. — To the right, as we once
more ascend, is the Chateau of Lignat. 125 M. Bellenave, with a
chateau of the 16th cent, and a church, mainly Romanesque. Beyond
(130'/2 M.) LoHiou.r-de-Bovhle we pass through a short tunnel,
quitting the valley of the Allier and entering that of the ("her.
From (1;J5 Al.) J.itiieyrouxe , a branch-line runs to (5'/2 M.) Sf.
Kloy, with important coal-mines. The view on the riglit is exten-
sive. Two viaducts are crossed. 143 M. llydit.
MONTLUgON. III. Ilimtc J4. 2'25
145 M. Commentry (Hotel du Bourbonnais) is a modern town
with 12,515 iuliab., engaged in the large coal-mines and iron-works
of the vicinity. Branch-line to Moulins, see p. 193. Our line now
descends and passes through a short tunnel.
147'/2M. Chamblet-Neris. Omnibus to(3M.) N^ris (Ifr), see
below. The line descends a picturesque valley, at first well-wooded
butl'arther on flanked by bare and rocky heights. To the right appears
the large convent and school of the Dnma de St. Manr.
154 m. Montlu9on ( Buffet; Hotel de France, Place de I'Hotel-
de-Ville; Grand Cerf). an industrial town with 27,818 inhab. , is
situated on the Cher. It contains an important mirror-factory, besides
glass-works, large iron-works, etc., but is of little interest to tourists.
The ancient CaMle (15-16th cent.) , which rises above the old town,
is better seen from a distance than from near at hand. It is now
used as barracks. A handsome avenue leads from the station to the
boulevards that skirt the old town. To the left lies the new town,
the workmen's quarter, on the left bank of the Cher; to the right we
reach the ancient Hotel de Ville, formerly a convent, the cloisters
being still recognizable. The Rue de la Com^die ascends behind this
building to iVofre-/)(7?/7e, an uninteresting and much mutilated church
of the 13-15th centuries. In the interior are some old paintings of
interest: above the side-entrance is a large Adoration of the Magi;
to the left of the organ , Jesus appearing to Thomas; between the
door »\\d the organ , seven small panels of the early Flemish scliool,
representing scenes from the life of the Virgin, with the donors.
Abovit 5M. to the S.E. is Nfiris (Or.-IIut. de Paris; Rocheite; des Bains;
Diimoiilin; etc.), to wliich an oninilius plies from the station of Chamblet
(see above), and during the season also a diligence from Mr)ntlucon (li/j t"r.).
The little town possesses thermal mineral springs (two bath-establishments),
known to the Romans, who have left traces of a theatre and of a camp.
Fkom SIouTLiifON to EyrjuFANnE-MBRLiNEs, 58 M., railway in 3 hrs. (fares
11 fr. 60, 8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 35c. ). This line is a continuation of that from Bourges
in the valley of the Cher. Best views to the left. — li}l. Btideliere-Chaiubo/i.
The little village o( Chamhon, 3 M. to the S.W. (diligence 60 c.), possesses
a pretty Romanesque and Transition church. We next cross the * Viaduct
de la 3'ardes, 3(X) ft. high, spanning the picturesque gorge of an aftluent
of the Cher. I71/2 M- Evaux (Gr.-IJui. des Bains; Jjcpiiie-^ de la Fontaine),
a little town witli 3183 inhab., possessing thermal mineral springs, known
to the Romans. 28i/.j,M Aiizances, to the left of (he line. Beyond (39 M.)
I.t'trade, the Wonts Dilme appear more and more distinctly. Several small
stations are passed, and the line reaches a height of 18tX) ft. above M(mt-
lu(;on. It linally descends to (58 M.) t'ygurande - Merlines (p. 246), where
it joins the railway from Limoges to Clermont-Ferrand (p. 231).
From Montluron to Chdteauroux and Tours, see pp. 34, 33; to Bounjes,
p. 210.
Beyond Montluron we cross the Cher. IST'/aM. Dome'rat. 161 M.
Hurid has a chateau of the 12th and 15th cent., with an interesting
keep. IGS'/jM. Treignat. From (172 M.) Larawd-FcaHc/ie, a branch-
line runs to (23'/2M.) Champillet-Urciers (p. 34). I75V2M. Cha-
non; 182 M. Parsac; 188'/s M. Cressat. We cross the Crense by a
handsome trclli*-work viaduct, 184ft. high and 320 yds. long.
193 M. Busseait-d'.Ahun (Bufl"et).
Baedeker. .Suuthern France. l-J
226 rri. Route 3d. GUERET. From Lyom
Fkom Ri-.sseau-d'Ahun to Felletin, 221/2 M. , railway in ll/shr. (fares
4tr.40, 3t'r.30, 2fr. 45 c.). The line ascends the valley of the Creuse, cross-
ing first the great viaduct of Busseau, and then a curved stone viaduct,
80 ft. in height. 5M. Lavaveix-lei-Mines. w'\{\\ coal mines. 10 31. Fournaux.
ISi/.iJI Aubusson (Ilutel de France; Notre- Dame) ^ with 6723 inhab., pictu-
resquely sitviated, was the birth-place of Pierre d' Aubusson, grandmaster
of the order of St. .Tohn of Jerusalem, who distinguished himself by his
■successful defence of Rhodes against Jlahometll. in 1480. Aubusson is noted
for its carpets, the manufacture of which occupies about 2000 hands. — 22l/o
JI. Felletin (Xoire-Bame), with 3360 inhab., is also engaged in the carpet"
industry.
200 M. ^te. Feyre. — 204 M. Gu6ret (Hotel RoHs$eau) , with
7065 inhab.. the former capital of Marchc. is now the chief town of
the department of theCre««e. It contains a PaJace (15-16th cent), said
to have belonged to the counts of Marche; and a small Mitsce, in the
Hotel de Ville.
We traverse a short tunnel. — 209 M. La Brionne, 3M. to the
N.AV. of which (diligence) is St. Vaury, with a church containing
live beautiful bas-reliefs, in wood, of the Passion (15th cent.).
214 M. Monta1gut;2l9M. ViemeviUe.
A branch-line runs from Vieilleville to (12V;; M. I Bourganeuf (Hotel
Bai/ard), an industrial town with 3902 inhab., manufacturing porcelain,
hats, paper, etc. It contains the remains of a priory, including a Tower
in which Zizim (d. 1495), brother of Ba.jazet II., was imprisoned for several
years.
230 M. Marsac. Then a tunnel 600 yds. in length.
232 M. St. Sulpice-Lavriere (Buffet), also a station on the line
from Orleans (Paris) to Limoges (p. 35). Limoges is 20'/2M. distant,
and 12'/2 M. farther is Nexon, junction of the railway to Peric/ueux
and Bordeaux (p. 35).
b. Via. St. Etienne, Clermont-Ferrand, and Tulle. Auvergne.
I. From Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand.
121 M. Raii.way in "1/0-91/4 hr.-*. (lares 24 Ir. 10. 18 fr. 5, 13 fr. 25 c). The
trains start from the Gare de Perrache.
Lyons, see p. 210. — This railway, as far as St. Etienne, is the
oldest in France, having been opened in 1832. The train follows the
Paris line to beyond the bridge over the .Saone. then returns by a
line not entering the station, and traverses the S. end of the penin-
sula of Perrache, crossing the Saone once more near its confluence
with the l{liont». Beyond a short tunnel La Mulatihe, with 3315
inhab.. appears on the right. Fine retrospect (on the left) of Lyons.
The line follows the right bank of the Rhone.
3 M. (hdlins , a picturesquely situated town with 7189 inhab..
with three old castles and numerous country-houses. Fine view
of the Rhone to the left. - 6 M. Irigny; S'/a M. Vernaison. The
little towers seen here and there on the banks of the river are used
for cable- ferries. - 10 M. La Tovr-de-MiUery ; lO'/? M- drigny.
Farther on a branch crosses the Rhone and joins the line on the
left bank (R. 61).
13M. Givors- Canal (Buffet) is the junction where the line to
to Boideaiir. ST. ETIENNE. ///. lioute 34. 2'27
St. Etieiine diverges from the line on the right bank (R. 58 b), under
which we pass, after crossing the Canal du Gier or de Givors.
lo' 2 M. Givors (Hotel de Provence) , an industrial town with
10,974 inhab., at the junction of the Rhone and the Gier. The whole
of the irregular valley of the latter river, which our line now ascends,
is the scene of a busy and varied industry, fostered by one of the chief
i:oal-flelds in France. Lofty chimneys rise in all directions, and the
district is blackened by smoke. - Beyond (16*,2M.) St. Romain-de-
Gier we traverse five tunnels : and beyond (19 M.) Treves-Burel, two
more. — 21^/,^. Couzon. Then a tunnel 600yds. long.
22' 2 M. Rive-de-Gier > Buffet: Hotel dn Nord) . with 14,304
inhab., is situated on the Gier and the Canal du Gier. It has upwards
of fifty coal-mines, noted glass-works, iron-works, and considerable
silk-factories. Steam-tramway to St. Chamond (see below).
Beyond (24 M.) Lorette, Mont-Pilat (p. 228) appears at the head
of a lateral valley. 25' '^^I. La Grand-Croix, with 4478 inhabitants.
28'/, M. St. Chamond (Hotel de la Po»te) , with 14.383 inhab.,
has coal-mines. at;tivo manufactures of silk, ribbons, laces, and nails,
iron-works, etc. An excursion may be made hence toMont-Pilat, which
again becomes visible to the left a little farther on. Steam-tramway
to Rive-de-Gier (see above) and St. Etienne (see below).
32 .M. Terrenuire, with G489 inhab.. has iron-foundries and iron-
furnaces. .\ tunnel. ^'4M. long, now carries the line from the basin
of the Rhone to that of the Loire.
36 M. St. Etienne {Buffet: Hotel de France, Place Dorian,
expensive; du Sard, de Paris, Rue de la Uepublique 7 and 6. —
American Consular Agent: Mr. O.icar .Malmros) . an important
nianufaituring town with 117,875 inhab.. has been the chief town
of the department of the Loire since 1856. St. Etienne has de-
veloped more rapidly than any other modern French town, due
largely to its situation in the midst of the largest coal-fldtl in the S.
of p'rance. yielding annually over 3.000.000 tons of coal. Weapons,
ironmongery, cutlery, ribbons. (>tc. are among the chief manu-
factures. For the tourist the busy, well-built, modern town is com-
paratively uninteresting. The Rue de la Republiqne diverges to the
right from the end of the avenue leading from the station, and passes
behind the modern Romanesque-Byzantine church of Ste. .Marie, the
portals and interior of which are elaborately carved. Farther on this
street ends in the Place Dorian, to the right of which rises the Hotel
de Ville, a modern edifice with a heavy cupola surmounted by a
lantern, and a platform decorated with cast iron statues of Metal-
lurgy and Ribbon-making, by Montagny. Behind it is the large and
handsome Place Marengo.
.Vnother main thoroughfare, traversing the city from N. to S. for
a distance of 2' ., M. (steam -tramway, 10c.) , crosses the Rue de la
Uepublique at the Place Dorian. In this to the N. is the immense
yafiiDinl Armx Factory I'no admission), in which rifles and revolvers
15*
228 ///. liijKte 34. ST. ETIENNE. From Lyons
are made. — On the left of the Rue des Jardiiis, the continuation of
the Rue de la R^puhlique, is the Palais de Justice, a large modern
building, the facade of which has a portico often Corinthian columns,
and is surmounted by an allegorical group, by L. Mertey. In a
street to the right as we return from the Palais de Justice, is St.
Etienne, a parish church of the 1 "ith cent., with an interesting interior.
Farther to the S., to the right of the main thoroughfare mentioned
above, on the slope of a hill, is the J'a/ats des Ails, containing various
Musenms, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. 10-12 and 2-4 or 5,
and to strangers on other days also. The Library is open on week-
days 10-12 and 5-10 p. m.
On the ground-floor is a historical Museum of Artillery^ some of the ex-
hibits being richly ornamented (explanatory labels). — On the staircase
are The Trinmph of Strength and an Episode from St. Bartholomew, paint-
ings by Glaize and Fragonanl. — The principal room on the first floor is
occupied by a Gallery of Paintings, ccmsisting mainly of modern pictures,
though with a few noteworthy older canvases: no number, Alb. Fourie,
Etienne Marcel and the Dauphin-, 111. Sal. Rosa, Christ in (iethsemane;
100. Ribera (V), Jacob's blessing ; 35. Gervex, Reminiscence of the Siege of Paris,
1870-71; 2. Alb. Aiiblet, Nero testing poisons on a slave; 14. C/tezal, Queen
of Sheba visiting Solomon; 139. Van de Vehle, Sea-piece; 106. Moucheron,
Landscape; etc. — In the other rooms are some more paintings, drawings,
rngravings, coins, furniture, tapestries, wood-carvings, etc. Two rooms
in the left wing are devoted to a Natural Ilisiory Collection, including a
line mineralogical collection.;
The Rue de la Badouillere leads from the front of the I'alais des
Arts to the Jardin des Plavfes. — St. Etienne contains an in»portant
School of Mines, in which nearly all the engineers and chiefs of in-
dustry of the district have been educated. It contains some inter-
esting collections.
Steam Tramways ply to .St. dhatiwiid (p. 227) in 50 min., starting from
the Place Fourneyron, at the end of the Rue de la Kepublique nearest the
station; and to Firminy (p. 247) in 45 min. (55 und 35 c), starting from
the Place Bellevue in the extreme S. of the town , reached by the tram-
way mentioned above.
From St. Etienne to Roaiine, etc., see below; to Annonay via Kirminy,
see below and p. 198; to Le Puy, etc., R. 35.
Excursion to Mokt-Pilat, 10 M. to I.e ISessat, and thence Ii/._. hr. to
the top, with guide: riding practicable. Tlie road leads to the S.E. via
the suburb of Valbtnoite, whence it skirts the left bank of the Furens, a
stream descending from Mont-Pilat. After 21/4 M. we pass the village of
RochetailUe , picturesquely situated on iiu isolated rock and commanded
by a ruined castle. About 3/4 M. farther on. in a wild gorge, is the inter-
esting Reservoir <Iu Goutf're-iVFnfer, constructed in 1861-68 to supply St.
Etienne with watei'. It is formed by a huge dam. 330 ft. long. 130 ft. high,
and 130ft. bniad at the base, connected witli a rock rising in the middle
of the channel of the Furens. It is estimated to contain nearly 2,000,000
cubic metres of water. Reliind it is anotlier reservoir. Rive-de-Oier.
St. Chaniond. and Annonay also have reservoirs of this kind. The scenerv
now becomes less interesting. I.e liessat (4100 ft.) lies at the foot of Mont-
Pilat.
Mont-Pilat is one of the chief summits of the Northern Civeiines. l(.s
lower slopes are covered with forests, its top with pastures. Three sum-
mits are distinguished; the Crest <le la I'erilri.v (4705ft.). the Crest <le rAilloii
(4530 ft.), and the Pic des Trois- Dents (4475 ft.). I.e Bessat lies at the foot
of the lirst and highest of these. The legend that Pontivis Pilate killed
himself here iu despairing remorse is related of this mountain just as it
In Bordeaux. MONTBRISON. HI. Rou/e 34. '2'2n
is of the Pilatus above the lake of Lucerne in Switzerland: and both
mountains serve as barometers for the surrounding districts. A popular
saying in this district runs 'When Pilate puts on his hat, put on your
cloak'. A similar remark is made with reference to the mists settling on
the Puy de Dome. — A farm at the foot of the Crest de la Perdri.\ serves as
an inn, but it is not advisable to sleep there. The summit commands a
splendid view, ranging to the Alps on the E. , to the Rhone valley and
Southern Cevennes on the S., to the Mts. of Auvergne on the W., and on
the N. to the continuation of the Ce'vennes, the Mts. of Lyonnais, to which
Mont-Pilat belongs, and the Mts. of Beaujolais and Charolais. The other
two stimniits, though lower, alsn command fine views. — The Gier, which
•rises on the Crest de la Perdri.v, near the farm, forms lower down a beau-
tiful waterfall, 100ft. high, known as the Saui du Qier. — In returning
we may proceed from Le Bessat to (IOV2 51.) St. Chamond, by the road
via (4i/'oM.) La Villa, or by the paths skirting the gorge of the Gier on
the left and passing the waterfall. In this case about 6 hrs. are required.
— The descent may also he made to Bourg-Argental (p. 198).
Beyond St. Etieune our line trends to the N.W. , skirts the Na-
tional Anns Factory to the left, and enters a short tunnel. 39V2 M.
Villars; 41 M. Ld Foiiillouse; 42 M. St. Jnat-mr-Loire , ]wntio\\
of the lines to Roanne (p. 197) and Firminy (p. 198). At (46 M.)
.■indretieux we cross the bed of the Loire, frequently dry in great
part. 47^/2 M. Bonson.
A branch-line runs from Bouson to (17 M.) St. Bonnet-le-Chateau (Hot.
(/« ('ommerce). a picturesquely sitiiated and ancient little town, with re-
mains iif fortifications, and a church of the early 15th cent., containing
some fine ancient mural paintings in the crypt. This line is to be continued
titwards La Chaise-Dieu (p. 2.52).
Tlio line now turns towards the E., in the direction of the moun-
tains of the Fore/, (p. 203), whicli it afterwards skirts for a conside-
rable distance, commanding an extensive view over the valley of the
Loire, on the right, bounded by the mountains of the Lyonnais. —
19'/>M. ■*» r,i/-/«"-f '«»;(/'//; 52' 2 M. Sf. Uotnain-I e- Pit }i, with a ruined
priory, nf flie licfiiiming of the 11th century.
5? -M. Montbrison [Hotel de lit Boste) , an ancient town of 7369
iiihab.. the former capital of the Forez, is situated on the Vizezyf at
tiie foot of a hill surmounted by a Calvary. The principal church,
Sotre-])nine-de-l' Espe'iance , is a handsome Gothic editice of the
13-ir)tii centuries. Behind the cluircli is an ancient chapter-house,
known as the Diano (Dccana), foiiii.icd about 1300, but restored in
1866. It now contains the libraries of the Societe ile la Diana and
of the town. About I'/jM. to the S. of Montbrison is Moingt, with
Roman remains and a feudal keep. — From Montbrison to Lyons
via I'Arbreslo and Montrond, see p. 223.
60 M. C'hainpdieu. To the left is the isolated volcanic hill of
Mont-d' Uzore (1770 ft.). 64 M. MarcUly-le-Bave. with a fine Gothic
*C'h('itenu. recently restored. 67'/2M. Boen; 3 M. to the E. is the
mediieval Chateau de l<i. Bdtie , still inhabited. The railway now
enters the mountains, a.sceuding first the valley of the Lif/non. then
the picturesque valley of the Auzon. — 70 M. Sail-sous-Couzan, or
Couznn. The village, I'/jM. to the S., has two mineral springs, with
a well -managed bath -establishment. — Farther on are the well-
230 ///. EoHte 34. THIERS. Fiom Lyons
preserved ruins of the Chateau de Couzan (ll-16th cent.). "2Va M-
L'Hdpital-sous-Rochefort; 76 '/a M. Sf.l''hnrin;84:M. Noire'table.
The railway turns to the S.W. and enters the valley of the Dvrolle.
89V2M. Cluibreloche; diM. St. Reiny-siir-Durolle. Eight tunnels
and four bridges are passed between this point and Thiers. As we
emerge from the last tunnel we have a fine view, to the left, of
Thiers , the wide plain of the Limagne (p. 204) , and the distant
mountains of Auvergne.
97'/2M. Thiers {Hotel de I'Univers, Hue des Grammonts, dear;
de Paris, same street), a town with 16,754 inhab., is an important
seat of the cutlery and paper manufactures. It consists of two distinct
parts : the new town, beside the station, and the medieval town, on
the steep bank of the Duvolle, ill-built but highly picturesque, with
many old houses of the loth cent, or older, blackened by time.
Beyond a square we descend the Rue des Grammonts to the
right to the Hotel de Ville. The Rue des Barres, to the left of the
latter, enters the old town. In the Place du Prioux is a curious old
timber house, and a few yards to the left, in the Rue de la Vaur,
are two others. The ground -floors of nearly all the houses in this
part of the town are occupied by small cutlers' workshops, the
workmen generally working in their own homes.
The Chvi'ch of St. Oenes, to the right, a little above the Place
du Prioux, in the Romanesque and Gothic styles of the ll-12thcent.,
lontains a tomb of the 13th cent, under the porch on the left side.
In the interior the capitals and the modern stained-glass windows
should be noticed.
The Rue DuroUe, to the right as we leave the church, leads down
to the Durolle. from the picturesque banks of which the most at-
tractive view of the town is obtained. Here are numerous paper-
mills, workshops for polishing scissors, knives, etc., and other
industrial establishments. Farther down, on the left, is the Ro-
manesque Ctmrvli. of Moutler, founded in the 7th or 8th cent.,
but largely rebuilt in the 11th. It also has curious capitals, and
at the end, two high-reliefs in stone. — The valley up the river is
also interesting.
To thf K.K. rises the Puy de Montoncel (4235 ft.), connected with the
Forez uKnintaiu.s. The ascent takes t^ hrs. on foot , via (5 M.) St. Remy
and (8 M.) Palailus, to which point there is a carriage-road. The summit
commands a beautiful and extensive prospect, including the Monts Dore.
Beyond Thiers we traverse two tunnels , and descend by wide
curves to the valley of the Dore, a tributary of the Allier. Fine
views to the left. At (OS'/^ M.) Conrty the line to Vichy diverges
(p. 204). We cross the river. - 100 M. Pont-de-Dore.
A branch -line runs hence to (30 >1.) Ambert (THe cVOr), an ancient
town of 8211 inhab., with a church of the 15-16th cent., and manufactures
of bunting for flags.
We are now in the Limagne (p. 204). 106 M. l.ezonx manufac-
tures earthenware. 112 m. Veitaizon.
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A braneli-liue runs hence to (S'/a M.) Billom (Udtel dex Vopageiirs), an
ancient town with 4569 inhab. , formerly celebrated for its school. The
church of St. Cerneuf (10th, 11th, and 13th cent.) contains a fine tomb
of the 14th cent., etc. — About 5 M. to the S.E. is the large ruined
Chdteau cle Mauziin (13th cent.).
IIS'/^M. Pont-du-Chateau, a small town '/a M. to N., on the
Ipft bank of the AUier. has a ruined chateau, and bitumen -wells.
We cross the Allier. 118M. Aninat. To the left appear the Plateau
de Gergovie and Mont Rognon (p. 239) , to the right the Mont.s
Dome (pp. 238, 239). 121 M. Clermont-Ferrand (Buffet).
Clermont-Ferrand. — Hotels. Ghaku-Hotei.de la Poste (Pi. a; A, 3);
'DE lUniveks (PI. b: 15, 4), K. 2, A. 1/2, Jej. 3, D. 3i/i fr. , omnibu.s,
25 c., view of the Puy de Dome; Grand -Hot. de i/El'Rope (Pl.e. : A, 4):
Hot. de Lyon (Pl.d:A, 4), unpretending; all these are in the Place de
.laude, about 1 M. from the station; de laPai.x, Montee de Jaude (Pl.e;
B, 3); 'Hotel i>u Louvre, close by, behind the cloth -market, P. 2, dej.
2V2, I^- 3 fr. ; DE France, Rue de PEcu (PI. A, 3); desMikimes, Rue des
Minimes, near the Rue de I'Ecu; des Vovageurs, opposite the station,
tolerable.
Cutis, De Paris, Lijonnais, de VUnivers, Olacier, Place de .laude; etc.
Cabs. In the town, by day, 1 fr. , by night (9 p. m. to 5 a. m.) 1 fr. 50;
to the station and from the Place de .Taude to Royat, 50 c. extra; luggage
also 50 c. extra: per hr., 3 and 4 fr. , etc. — Omnibus from the Place df
.laude to Rovat, 25 c.
Post Office (Pl.B, 2), Rue du Poids-de-Ville. — Telegraph Office (PI.
B, 4), Sqxiare d'Assas, formerly Place des Petits-Arbres (p. 233).
Churches. PinteHant , near the Rue Sidoine- ApoUinaire (PI. B, 2) ;
Evangelical, R\ie St. Andre, X. of the Rue Blatin (PI. A, 4).
C7e»'/»iirt;^-7V/-caji(/ (1320 ft.), the former capital of Auvergne
(p. 234). and now the chief place in the department ol the Puy-de-
Dovie, is a town of 46.718 inhab. , the head-quarters of the i3th
Army Corps, the seat of a bishopric, as well as of a university, etc.
It is built on a slight eminence rising from the wide and fertile
basin of Limagne on the E. and at the foot of the remarkable range
of extinct volcanoes kiuiwii as the Monts Dome on the AV. The
chief summit in tliis range is the Puy de Dome, which rises to a
height of 4805 ft. (see p. 238), in full view of the Place de Jaude.
The town has superseded the Celtic Neiiieiniu, which itself svicceeded
Gergovia (p. 239) as the capital of the Arverni, after the overthrow of
Vercingetorix by C'a'sar, at Alesia in B. C. 52. It ^^ as in particular favour
with Augustus and f(jr that reason named .liujnsta Neineiiun. After beiuj;
repeatedly ravaged by the barbarians, it look in the 10th cent, the name
of Vlariis Mons, whence its present name Clermont. To this was added in
the 17th cent, the name of t'errand on the occasion of the annexation ol
the little town i>{ Mont/errand, situated 1 Jl. to the N. Here at a council
summoned by Pope I'rban 11. in 109li the lirst crusade was arranged.
Since that time the history of the town has been uneventful. Whether
Uregorv of Tours was a native of it, is uncertain, but it was the birth-
place o"f Pascal (1623-1662) and of DeliUe (1738-1813), the poet.
In general appearance the town does not correspond with the
beauty of its situation. Its streets are, as a rule, narrow, and the
houses, built of lava, have a gloomy and forbidding look. From
the station we reach the town by the Avenue Charras, which tra-
verses a suburb and leads to the Phtre /)f/>7/f(PJ.D. 2, 3), ornamented
232 III. Rovle 34. ri.ERMONT-FERRAM). From Lyons
■with a fountain. The Rue dii Port . boginuinp, iie^tr tlie mifldle of
this square, passes a little farther on to the S. of —
*Notre - Dame -du- Port (PI. C%P,2). a church founded in the
Uth cHut., ri'ljiiilt ill the lOtli, and recently restored. Archa;ologi-
cally it is the most remarkable church in Clermont, being the typi-
cal representative of the Auvergnat Romanesque style , of which
there are several fine examples at Nevers and Issoire (p. 205). The
most interesting part of the exterior is the choir, which is covered
with patterns formed of black lava and white stones and has three
fine chapels, with rich modillions and pillars with capitals of ela-
borate workmanship, radiating in a semicircle, and alternating with
buttresses. The transepts are decorated in the same manner and
flanked by small apses. The south transept contains a side -portal
with low -reliefs representing the Annunciation, the Nativity, and
the Adoration of the Magi, and is also decorated with statues of the
Apostles. From the crossing rises a good modern tower, the base
of which is in the Auvergnat Romanesque style. The plain fagade
has a Gothic 14th cent, doorway. The first bay of the nave and
the aisles are surmounted by small round- vaulted galleries with
a triforium of round arches on the left and trefoil-headed on the
right. Under the chancel is a fine crypt with a small black statue
of the Virgin.
A small street to the N. of this church leads to the Place d'Es-
fxKjne (Pl.(M),2i, oblong in shape, so called because in 1692
Spanish prisoners of war were employed upon it. I'rom this square
and from the I'lnce de Pofenic (P1.B,C,2), a little farther on, fine
views are obtained of the Monts Dome. Lower down, in a square
which bears his name (Pl.B, 2), is the bronze Statue of Blaise
Poscal (1623-62), the philosopher, by Guillaume (1880).
Me now re-enter the town, passing along the Square Blaise-Pas-
cal and the Place de la Poterne. The second street on the right
passes in front of the Hotel de Ville and the Palais de Justice
(PI. C, 3), which together form one huge building in the neo-classical
style. Farther to the S, is
The ^Cathedral (P1.H,('.3). a fine Gothic building, the con-
struction of whirli was begun in 1248 from plans by Jean Des-
chauips, but ha> been interrupted and resumed several times. In
the 15th cent, the side portals with their unfinished towers were
added ; then the building was once more abandoned till the present
period which has witnessed the completion of the fa(;ade with its
two towers after the plans of Viollet- le-Duc. The interior is
distinguished by its harmonious proportions. The choir, with its
plain aisles, apses, and side chapels, is in the early Gothic style;
the nave with double aisles and chapels, is in a later Gothic style.
The windows, below which is a fine triforium with pointed gables,
contain good stained glass of the 13- 15th cent. , the rose windows
in the transepts being specially fine. The high altar, of copper, the
If, Bovihniix. CLERMONT -FEKHAM). flLIinnteSJ. 1?,'^
bishop's tlirniic. nml tlic railings of the clioir aro all modern, de-
signed by VioUet-le-Diic. In the seeonil chape] to the right of the
choir is a painted wooden reredos of the 16th cent., representing
the Life of St. Crispin and St. Crispiiiian. In the left transept is
a Jacqueniarf (clock llgureK taken in the [{eligious "Wars of the
16th cent, at Issoire.
To the S. of the cathedral we cross the Place de Clermont, in
which stand> the House of Pasral, indicated by a bust. We proceed
to the S. by the Rue Royale (PI. B,3), passing the Theatre, and
descend to the right by the Place de Sugny, on the left side of
which is the Pre'fertine (PI. B, 4), and by the Boulevard de la Pre-
fecture.
The I'lace de J mule (PI. A. 4), where this boulevard ends, is the
centre of Clermont, though situated to the W. of the town proper.
It is 300 yards long and 90 yards wide and is adorned at its S. end
by a bronze statue, by Naiiteuil. of Deanix (1768-1800), the distin-
guished general, a native of Auvergne.
In a small triangular space a few paces from this point is a pretty
Casino recently built in the Moorish style.
The Hue Blatin, in the direction of the Puy de Dome, leads from
the W. side of the Place de Jaude to Royat (p. 23i3).
l\i the N.W. angle of the same Place is the Clun-rh of St. Pierre-
(/e«-3/tuwie» (PI. .\,3.4). dating from the 17th century. — Near it
is the wide and flue Rue de I'Kcu , by which . turning to the riglit,
we may again reach the Place Blaise-Pascal.
On this side of the town, but farther on (direction-placards) are
the Funtaine-i Pe'trifioitte.f de St. Alyie (PI. A. 1 ; mineral baths), of
little interest. Visitors are expected to make some small purchase
or to give a gratuity.
We return from the Place de.laude by the Boulevard de la Pr<;-
fccture, and crossing the Square d'Assn.H (PI. B, 4) we keep straight
(in along the Rue du St. Esprit, at the bottiuii of which is the Lyre'e
I'asral (PI. C. 4). There we turn once nmre to the right, along the
wide Rue Ballainvilliers, passing in front of the Halle an Ble'{CoTi\
Market), and reaching the Fontaine Desaix (PI. Co), surmounted
by an obelisk.
A little farther on, the Palais de rAcade'mie, a recent building,
is passed on the left. — The building to the left at the corner, which
we pass before reaching the Acadi^mie. contains the Library and
the Museum (PLC, 5). The library, which possesses about 50,000
vols, and 1 100 MSS., is open daily from 9 to 11 and from 1 to 4.
The Mus6e, which occupies the ground -floor and first floor,
contains anticiuities, relics of the Middle Ages, paintings, and some
modern sculptures. It is open to the public daily from 10 to 4, ex-
cept Mon. and Frid.. anil on those days also to strangers.
Orounii - Fi.uoi!. — Tlii,s part of the miiscum ciintain,s fragments of
Kiiiiiun seulptiii'f. iiirilitt-val and modern sculptures; niudfl (if a statui- ot
'2U HI. Route .14. CLKUMO^T-FEHF.A^D. Fiom Lyons
Vertingetorix , by Bari/ioUli, design for the monument to be raised at
(iergovie (p. 239): Hope deceived, a bronze hy Ban and; Hero and Leand-
er, group in marble by Diebolt; Lesbia's toilette, marble statue by Che-
vttUier ; Roman mosaic, Egyptian mummy, etc.
First Fi^ooii. — Koom 1. Weapons, furniture, bas-reliefs, statuettes,
door of a sacristy with 13th cent, paintings, Chinese ornaments. —
Room II. Portraits, continuation of the Chinese collection, enamels, seals,
medals, pottery, bronzes', caskets of stamped leather of the 15th cent.;
Pascal's calculating machine. — Room III. contains principally pictures.
On the right, 18. C. DoUi, Head of the Virgin; 28, 27, 29. Calloi, The Miseries
of War; 116. Holbein, Portrait of Ant. Duprat, chief minister of Francis I.;
5. Teniers the Younger], Fair at Florence, a reversed reduction, by the
artist himself, of a picture which is now in the Old Pinakothek at Munich;
'ili. Phil.de Chamjiaigne, Annww^'iaXwu: II. Rigaxid, 104. Portrait of the artist,
106. Portrait of Puget; no number, Berthon, Procession to St. Bonnet (Puy
lie Dome; 1878); 100. Franck, Calvary; no number, Schenck, Tempest; 17.
CUricatdt, Study for the picture of the Wreck of the Medusa, at the
Louvre; 42. D. Romekkof, Fairy ring; 166. L. Leloir, Jacob wrestling with
the angel ; 177. Ehrmann, Vercingetorix. — In the glass case at one end,
a silver denier of Lothair, unique. — Room IV. Works by Degeorges,
including 217. Invasion of the Constituent Assembly in 1789. Engravings;
small ethnographical collection; Celtic-Roman antiquities.
Between the Museum and the Acad^mie is a School of Pisci-
rnlture, open to visitors daily from 2 to 6 p. m.
The Jardin Lecoq (Pi. C, 5, 6) , in the vicinity, is a fine public
promenade , with a Botanical Garden : a military band plays here
in .summer. At the entrance stands the bust of 77. Lecoq (d. 1871),
tlie naturalist, formerly the director of the garden.
At the E. end of the small Place du Taureau, near the entrance
to the garden, is the Mvse'e Lecoq 'PL C, 5), bequeathed by Lecoq to
the town, containing a natural history collection, especially rich in
specimens illustrating the geology and mineralogy of Auvergne.
The museum is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. from 10 to
3, and on other days also to strangers.
We now retrace our steps by the Hue Ballainvilliers. Behind
the Lyc^e is the Church de» Cannes (PI. €,4), a fine Gothic struc-
ture of the 13-15th cent. . without aisles. Its large windows have
modern glass.
A little farther on we reach a square, whejice a street leads to
the right to the Boulevards, in the centre of which is the Grande
Fontaine (P1.D,4), or Fontaine de Jacques d' .\mboise. a tasteful
monument in Yolvic stone, dating from 1515. It consists of three
basins, one above the other, richly sculptured and adorned with
statuettes. The whole is stirmounted by a statue of Hercules, with
the arms of the Amboise family.
The Boulevard Trudaine ascends hence to the Place Delille and
the Avenue Charras (p. 231).
Auvergne, Arvernia, an old province of France, was bounded on the
X. by Bourbonuais and Berry, on the S. by Rouergue and Oevaudau,
on the K. by Velay and Fore/,, on the W. l)y Quercy, Blarche, and I^i-
iiiousin. It was divided into Basse- Auvergne, to the N. and E.. and Ilattte-
Auvergne to the S. , the two together corresponding to the present A>--
|iai'lnieu(s of Puv-de-Donie and Cantal and a part of Haute-Loire.
to Uordeaii.r. Cl.KRMONT-FERRAM). 1 1 1. lioi(te34. IIM)
Haute- Auvergne and the environs of Clermont -Feirand in Basse-
Auvergne are especially interesting from a geological point of view,
and, for the tourist, rank amongst the most interesting regions of France.
In few regions is the surface more ro\igh and broken, and nowhere can
the results of volcauic action be better .studied. The shape of the moun-
tains reveals their origin at a glance. They are in general rounded, pre-
senting a succession of isolated cones, the outcome of volcanoes extinct be-
fore the dawn of history, but whose craters are still easily recognizable.
Many of these mountains bear the name of P^<if , derived from the Latin
poilitim.
The first chain is that of the Monts Ddine, in which are GO puys, from
2500 to 4000 ft. in height, descending in steps right and left of the Puy
de Dome (p. 238), which attains a height of 4805 ft. above the level of
the sea, or 1970 ft. above the plateau on which it stands and 3600 ft.
above Clermont. This mountain, as the most characteristic of all, has
given its name to the department. The second chain, more to the \V.
and S., includes the Monts Dore and the MonU du Cantal, of which the
culminating point is the Pinj de Sancp (G185 ft.), near Mont-Dore (p. 243),
the loftiest summit in the interior of France, and the Plomb du Cantal
(6095 ft. : p. 253).
The chief rivers of Auvergne are the AUier, the Dordogne^ the Sioult,
and the Rne. The soil is very fertile in the lower districts, producing
cereals in great abundance, highly prized fruits (large trade in preserved
apricots) and good wines. The mountains are covered with excellent
pasturage and line woods of breech and fir. Moreover the country is rich
in coal-mines, bitumen, iron, lead, antimony, alum, etc. to a great ex-
lent still unexploited. Near Volvic (p. 240) are immense beds of lava,
which is exported far and near for building purposes. And Ihially Au-
vergne possesses a number of mineral springs, the best known of which
are those o( Royat (see below), Afont Dore (p. ^41), and La Bourhoule
(p. 244).
Tlie climate of Haute-Auverge is severe, the central part of the Cantal,
called La Montague, being covered wilL snow during six months of the
year and then subject to violent storms. The people of this division, in
particular, are given to migrating into the large town.s of France and
there exercising humble and rough trades which they render lucrative
by perseverance and economy. In Paris many of the labourers, coal-
porters, porters, and market -hands are Auvergnats. These direct des-
cendants of the Gauls are regarded as the K(eolians of France, not only
in respect of their trades, but also from Iheir rough appearance and their
strong accent. On the other hand they have various excellent qualities ;
they are industrious and very honest and sober.
Though Auvergne has not played an important part in the history
of either the Middle Ages or of modern times, it was prominent in the
annals of (iaul and the wars with Cwsar. Before his overthrow at Alesia,
Vercingetorix , the chief of the Arverni, defeated the famous Roman
general at Gergovia, 4 M. to the S. of Clermont (see p. 239). The fir.-^t
crusade was preached at Clermont in Auvergne in 1095.
Excursions from Clermont-Feerand.
To Royat, IV4M. to the W., by the Rue Blatiii \vhi(h begins
at the Place tie Jaude; 3*/2 M. by rail. Conveyances, see p. 231 ;
railway, p. 240. By the road we turn to the left before reachiiifs
Chamalieres (p. 237), ascend the valley of the Tirtaine, and pass
under a railway-viaduet. — The station is above us, to the left.
Royat. —Hotels. Splendid-Hotel, Costinektal et des Bains, Grand-
Hotel, a little higher up, all first class, above the park of the Thermal
lislabli.^hment , with a line view; Granu-Hotel deLvon, still higher;
230 ///. Tionle 34. UOYAT. Fmm Lynns
GnwD-BdrEh Richelieu, below, near the Baths; GfiA^D-TIoTEi. Bristol,
hehiml the Baths: Hotei- Cektkal, pens. 7-12 fr. ; Gkand-Hotel di' Parc,
i)U LoivEE. DE France et n'ANfJLETRnE , de.s SorncEs . etc., farther off in
the valley; Hotel St. Mart, de la Pai.x, de Paris, de l'Evrope, in an
elevated situation, ete, Numerous Furnisher} Ifo't.^es. Pension, 10 to 30 fr.
per day. Royat is cimsidered e.vpen.sive.
Baths, 1 fr. 50, '2 fr., and 2 fr. 50 according tn the month and the hour
at which they are taken.
Mineral Water. Subscription (obligatory), 10 franc. : then, 5 c. a glass.
Casino, open from Blay 15 to Sept. 80: entrance, 3 fr., with seat in the
theatre. 4 fr. : subscriptiim for 25 days, 25 fr.. family subscription 200y'|,
reduction: seat in the park during the music, 15c. (day), 25c. (evening);
subscription. 5 fr. for 25 davs.
Band daily in the Park'from 9 to 10 a. m.. from 3.30 to 5, and 7.30 to
y p. m.
Post and Telegraph Office in the Park.
English Church Service in summer. — English Physician: Dr. O. II. Brandt.
\ list of Physicians and other useful information is given in the
.lonrnal 0/ficiel de Iloyat, which is distributed gratis.
lioynt (,1450 It.), together with .S7. Mart, the part nearest to Cler-
mont, is a place of 1560 iiihab., in a beaxitifiil valley watered by the
Tirtnine, and overlooked on the N. by thePi^y rh Chnfeix (2230 ft.^
and on the IS. by the I'oy de Grarenoire (2700 ft.). It commands
splendid views of the valley from wliich rises the Puy de Dome, to
the AV., and of Clermont and the Limagne, to tlie E.
The Thermal Egt(ibli:i]inient is at St. Mart, at the end of the
valley and on the bank of the river. It has four mineral springs,
tised both for drinking and for bathing. These are the springs of
St. Mart (55° Fahr.), St. Victor (68° Fahr.), Cemr (84° Fahr.), and
Eugenie (96° Fahr.), all grouped round the Establishment. The last-
named, which is open throughout the year, and especially frequented
between May 15 and Oct. 15 (about 5000 visitors annually), has 94
private bath-rooms, besides large basins, pulverization and inhalation
rooms, douche-cabinets of all sorts, etc. The maladies which are
successfully treated here are rheumatism, gout, and other arthritic
diseases, affections of tlie respiratory organs, and chlorosis and an:e-
mia. lloyat claims to rival Vichy and in certain cases to be prefe-
rable. In the Park are remains of Ruiiian Uaths'. to the right, behind
the Establishment.
The village proper lies farther up the valley. The church (10-
12th cent.) presents a picturesque appearance, viewed from the left
bank of the Tirtaine. Below it. on the bank of the river, is a grotto,
in which seven springs rise, partly used for the water-supply of
Clermont. — Excursions, see below.
To the Puy de D&me. - There are four routes from Clermont lo
the Puy de Dome: a carriage-road through the valley of Koyat, a
footpath above to the right, another via Villars , and the old
carriage-road via La llaraque. The distance from the town to the
top is from 8 to 10 miles, which may be accomplished by carriage
in about 4 hours. e.\cept the ascent of the cone, and in 7 hours on
tu Bordemtx. PUY DE i)UMJ;. III. Route 34. 237
loot, tliere and back, besides halts. A carriage costs not less than
'20 to 25 I'r. Uinnibuses occasioiialiy jily in tlie season to tlie Col do
Ceyssat (see below), leaving Clermont about 7.30 a. m. and the Col
about 4 p. ni. ; enquiries should be made beforehand. -— The air at
the top of tiie Dome is always cold. The custodian of the Obser-
vatory has rooms for the accommodation of tourists.
a. \'iA IfoYAT. — C'arn'ane liond. — Jioynt, sec p. 235. From
the Bath I'^stablishment , where the omnibuses stop . we cross the
river and ascend by the street on the left. We leave on the right
the footpath (see below), nearly opposite the church and near a small
cascade formed by the Tirtaine under a bridge. Farther on, towards
the end of the village, w^e turn to the left, cross the river, follow for
a short distance a street in the upper part of the village, and turn to
the right at the second cross street. After that there can be no mis-
take. The new road ascends through meadows, with very little shade,
a defect shared by most roads in this region and materially detracting
from the tourist's enjoyment in summer. About 3 M. from Royat
wp reach the poor hamlet oi Fontannt (two small restaurants), a little
short of which the road twice crosses the Tirtaine, leaving the village
on the right. About 1 orl'/4M. farther on we join the La Baraque road,
and a post on the other side indicates the road to the Col de Ceyssat
and the Puy de Dome, across a flat succeeded by a strip of wood at
the foot of the cone. To the left, on a hill, are the scanty remains
of the Chnteau de Moiitiodeix, the foundation of which dates back
at least to the 8th century. The Col de C'eyi-sat (3535 ft.), on which are
an inn and some huts at which the carriages stop, is 2'/2^I- from
the above mentioned point, to the S. of the Piiy, whence a good
zigzag road ascends for 1 '/j M. more to the Observatory on the top
of the mountain.
redeitiian lioittc from Hoyat. This route , which is par-
ticularly to be recommended for the return on account of the view
of the valley and in the direction of Clermont, ascends , as stated
above, to the right at Royat, crosses some vineyards, turns to the
left, and skirts the valley all the way to Fontanat, through which
it passes to join the carriage-road.
b. Via Villaks. — This is a less interesting route than either
of the preceding, but as compensation it offers remnants of a Roman
road paved with blocks of lava and in a fair state of preservation.
It leads first to the right beyond the divergence of the road to Royat,
at the point where the latter turns to the left, passes through ('/.jhr.)
C7irt>(ui/<<'/e.i, a villageof2353inhab.. with a church dating in part from
the 11th century. Then it passes under the Tulle railway and ascends
a wooded valley. VUliiris is a hamlet about i hr. from Clermont.
Thence, passing to the left of the hamlet of (''4hr.) Che'ix and farther
on to the rifiht of ('/^hr.j I'tDi/iinat. we join the precediiif; routes.
c. Via La Babaque. This route is about l'/4 M. longer and
\Nill only be followed in returning by those who descend by the side
■2:38 ///. Route U. PUY DE DOME. From Lyon»
of the Pay de Pariou (p. 239). It leaves the Royat road on the
left and passes through Chnmnlieres (see above). Fully '/j ^^- farther
it joins the Tulle road at a point where a turn is made to the left and
zigzags up to La Baraque. (A path cutting off the last curve diverges
half-way.) Lo Baraque is a hamlet. 4 M. from Clermont, built on
a lava-stream from the Puy de Pariou, the road to which branches
off IV4M. farther to the right of the Tulle road . which is the way
to the Col de Ceyssat mentioned above.
The *Puy de D6me (4805 ft.) is formed of a white siliceous lime-
stone, here and there tinted with yellow and red, which is peculiar
to this mountain and therefore called domite. It is scantily clothed
round its base by wood, and elsewhere by coarse grass. The top is a
fairly extensive plateau sloping towards the S. l^pon it are an obser-
vatory, some ruiTis and a hut where refreshments are sold, but the
view is naturally the chief attraction.
In clear weather the *Panor.\ma is vast and magniticent: to the
PI the valley of Royat, Clermont, ami the Limagne; to the S. a
number of naked volcanic cones, attaining a height of from 3600 to
4100ft. above the sea; farther away, the Lac d'Aydat, to the left of
which are the Monts Dore, dominated by the Puy de Sancy. and still
farther, the heights of the Cantal ; westward, a broken plain : to the
N., other volcanic cones, forming a continuation of those to the S.,
amongst which we may single out the Petit Puy de Dome, a buttress
of the chief mountain ; then the two Suchets ; to the left, the Puy de
Come; to the right, the Puy de Pariou, etc. (see below).
The ruins which cover a part of the plateau are those of a Temple
of Mercury. The foundation and a few courses of masonry alone re-
main. It was built of enormous stone blocks bound together by iron
clamps. Several platforms are still recognizable, and on the last of
these are some small apartments, looking towards the 8.. and ending
in semicircular form, nearly all provided with stone seats. This temple
dates from the Roman period and is mentioned in C;csar"s Commen-
taries. Besides the fragments of stone sculptures scattered by the side
of the path, similar fragments in marble of various kinds have also
been discovered, as well as bronze artifles, Roman coins, etc.
The Obseevatokv. at the upper end of the plateau, was opened
in 1876. It consists of a tower for observations at the highest point
of the mountain and a main building lower down, slieltered from
the north and connected with the tower by an underground passage.
It comniunicates with Clermont by means of a special telegraph. —
Pascal made his first experiments to ascertain the weight of the
atmosphere on the Puy de Dome in 1648.
Sure-footeil pedestrians who wish to save time may descend
in about 1 hr. straight from the summit to the road by which they
ascended, by following the direction of the telegraph. Footpas-
sengers or those who send down their carriage by this road gene-
rally descend on the N. side towards the Petit Puy de Dome
to Bordmux. PLATEAU DE GERGOVIE. UI.Huute.lU. 239
(4160 ft.), to which there are two paths, the left one being shorter
but .<teeper than the right. On the left there is a complete crater
called the Sid de la Poule. Farther on, in front, is the Pxy dn,
Petit-Sitchet (3950 ft.), and to the left the Omnd-Suchef (4070 ft.).
Passing to the right of the former, we may reach the Puyde Pariou
(3970 ft.) in about 2 hrs. from the top of the Puy de Dome. It has a
crater over 1000 ft. in diameter and about 300 ft. in depth. The
Pnij de Come (4150 ft.), the second to the W. . has a double crater;
on the Pity de Chiersoii (3965 ft.), between the two. are curious caves,
especially on the S. side (torch or candle required). The descent is
made to the N.E. to the road to Pontaumur, which joins the Tulle
road at Ln Bnraque (p. 238), about 2V2 M. from the foot of the Puy
de Pariou. It skirts the 'CAeire' or lava-stream of that mountain.
From Olkrmokt-Fereand to Mont-Rognon and the Plateau de Gek-
GoviE, 4 and 6 JI. , 4-5 hrs. walk there and back; carriage about 15 fr.
We follow the Bordeau.x road, by the Rue Gouod, to the S. of the Place
de .laude (PI. A, B, 5, 6). This road, bordered by trees, leads through
line orchards and vineyards. A short-cut for pedestrians diverges to the
right at the first bend, rejoining the road 1/3 M. farther on, to the right
of Beaumoni, a village with about 1450 inhab. nearly 2 31. from Clermont.
Another short-cut, to the left, may be made from the ne.xt curve, leading
direct to Ceijrat^ another large village nearly 2 M. from Beaumont, at the
foot of the Puy du Mont-Eognon (1980 ft. 1. The top of this mountain,
which, like all the neighbouring puys, is of volcanic formation, is reached
in 1/4 hr. by a steep ascent to the left. It commands fine views of Cler-
mont to the N., the Puy de Dome and its satellites to the W. , and
the Plateau de Gergovie to the S.E. On the summit are the ruins of a
Castle which dominate tlie country round. They consist of two towers
one of which has partly fallen in. This castle, built about 1160, has
been in niins since 1634.
The Plateau de Gergovie (2440 ft.) lies about 2 M. to the K. of Jlont-
Rognon. It is readied either by a direct footpath or by a longer carriage-
road , passing CUinensat and the Gorge d'Opmes to the S. This plateau,
which measures about 1600 yds. by 650 yds., is the site of the Gallic town
of Gergovia, which Caesar besieged after occupying Bourges , and where
he was defeated by the famous Vercingetorix. After the submission of
the Gauls Augustus tried to efface the memory of this defeat by trans-
porting the inhabitants to Xemetum . now Clermont, which he loaderl
with his favours, whilst Gergovia was sufl'ered to fall into ruin. The
present scanty remains consist of heaps of stones lying by the sides of the
roads wliich cross the fields, and which are said to indicate the course of the
streets of the town. Excavations have from time to time been under-
taken, with abundant results, especially on the E. side. The view from
the plateau is still more extensive than from Mont-Rognon. A statue of
Vercingetorix is to be erected here, after Bartholdi's design (p. 234).
The shortest route for returning descends to the E. to the Issoire road,
which the pedestrian may join by a path to the N. at (2V2 M.) AubUre,
a place of .^289 inhab.. about I^'/Vm. from Clermont.
II. From Clermont-Ferrand to Tulle. Northern Auvergne.
1071 ., Jl. Railway in 6 hrs. (fares 21 fr. 40, 16 fr. 10, 11 fr. 80 c.). —
From the Place de .laude (p. 233) it is shorter to catch the train at Royaf,
to which also a railway omnibus runs.
This line makes a wide circuit to the S. of Clermont, of which
It affords a fine view as far as the second station; it then skirts the
240 ///. Route 34. PONTGIBAUD. From Lyons
N. side of the Monts Dome. — o'/jM. Boyat (p. 235), of which
there is also a flue view, especially from the viailuct, 70 ft. high,
which is crossed beyond the station. After passing (5 M.) Durtol
and going through 4 short tunnels, with the Puy de Dome, the Puy
dePariou, etc. on the left, it reaches (12', 2 M.) Volvic, a small town
2 M. to the right. About a mile to the N. are the interesting and
extensive ruins of the Chateau de Tournoel, dating in part from
the Pith century. To the left of the railway are large quarries of
lava, used for building. Fine views all the way to (17 M.) Vauriat
and (20 M.) St. Ours-ks-Iioches. To the right rise the Mouts Dore.
23'/2M. Pontgibaud [Hotel Johannel) , with 1157inhab. , has
argentiferous lead-mines and a 13tli cent. Castle containing a choice
and valuable collection of paintings, to which visitors are admitted.
The Church (15-16th cent.) contains two paintings of the Adoration,
by Guido Reni, and an Assumption by Parrocel. One of the town-
gates dates from 1444.
The line now rounds the end of the Monts Dome and ascends
the valley of the Sioule, in which the view is limited. 25'/? M.
Les Iloziers-sur-Sioule ; 28 M. La Miouze-llochtfort.
Rochefori., which has a *Castle in ruins, is 61/0 M. to the S. and
5 JI. from Laqueuille (see below). About li/'-j M. to the E. of Rochefort
is Orcival, the church of which, with a black statue of the Virgin, is
one of the chief resorts of pilgrims in Auvergne.
At (55 M.) Bourgeade, the view opens out in the direction of
the Monts Dore; to the left is the truncated pyramid of the Pic de
la Baiine-d'Ordenche, and in the distance to the right the Puy de
Sancy (p. 243).
SS'/aM. Laqueuille (3235 ft.; Bnffef,iUi.3, D. 3V2fr.). The
village lies on a hill, 1^/4 M. to the E. — Continuation of the line
to Tulle, see p. 246.
KxCUKSlON TO MoNT-DOKE. — Diligences ply in the season from
flie station of Laqueuille to OVa M.) Mont-Dore in 1:V4 hr- ; and to (8 M.j
La Bourbonle in If'-jhr- Carriages also for hire.
The road first crosses an uninteresting plain in the direction of
the valley of the Dordogne. After 2'/2 M. the road to La Bourboule
iliverges to the right (see p. 244), descending by a detour into the
valley, while the Mont-Dore road ascends to tlie left. The moun-
tains become more clearly defined ; to the left is the Baiine-d'Ordenche ,
mentioned above; to the right the Puy de 8ancy (p. 243), recogni-
zable by its three peaks.
4V2 M. Murat-le-Qxmirc, the lialf-way village, from which La
Bourboule is only about '/a^l- distant in a straight line. After about
7M., a road diverges on the right to La Bourboule. AW- next reach
the banks of the Dordogne, ascend its picturesque valley, turning
to the right, and find oursehes in front of the mountains which
ilose the valley, partimilarly the Puy de Saucy. We descend by a
zigzag road to the diligenceoffice near the casino.
f„ nnrdemt.v. LE MONT- DOUE. III. Hmite 34. 241
Le Mont-Dore. Hotels. Most 1)1' the hotels are new and comfovt-
ahle, Imt it is advisable to ascertain the charges beforehand.^ >fear the
Bath Establishments: Hotel SARriRON-RAiNALDY; Nouvel Hotel, next
the preceding, and Hotel de la Poste, same proprietor; De Paris et
i)U Parc; all these are first -class houses in the Place Michel - Bertrand ;
De Frakce et de l'Uhivers, Rue Favart, pens, from 9 fr. ; Kaimade
AiNK, Boyer-Bertrakd, des Bains et de Lyon, Rue Rigny , second-
class. — Near the church and the Casino: Bahdet, Geaud Hotel, first-
class; Madevf, Rue Ramond ; de Lo>;dres et de Bordeaux, first-class. —
In the Rue Rigny, beyond the three above-named: Boyer-Pahisiek. de
LA Paix; behind, <4h. -Hot. des Etkangees, first-class. — In the Rue
Favart, below the Hotel de Finance: Bruuiere Aine, small; Baraduc-
Laudouze, BovTiRoN, DES Thermes , etc. — Numerous FurnUhed llonsts
and Villa!:.
Caf^s, Dn Casino, (In Pont, de la Rotomle, cle Pa)i.'!, higher up, on the
banks of the Uordogne.
Thermal Establishment. Drinking and gargling, 10 fr. for 20 days;
liaths 11/2-41/-1 fr. ; in tlie common basin, free (except in July); douches
n J and"2fr. ' baths with douches 21/2 'm'l 3 fr. ; porters 40 and 50 c.,
there and back 75 c. and 1 fr. The tarilf and a list of Physicians are ex-
hibited in the Establishment.
Carriages, generally dear, about 20 fr. per day (bargaining necessary).
— Public Cnnveiiancex to Laqueuille, see p. 240; to La Bourboule I1/4 fr.,
2 fr. there and back. — Horses and Jloiikeijs, 3-6 fr. per day; no tarift'.
Guides, scarcely required for the ordinary excursions, with the details
given below : 3-10 i'r. for hall a day, 5-12 fr. per day.
Casino, Admission per day 1 fr. ; subscription for 20 days, 15 fr. , in-
chuling chairs in the park; theatre 1-4 fr.
Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Favart, at the corner of the Issoire road.
Protestant Service on Sun. at 1 p. m. in the Bath-Establishment, first floor.
Le Mont- Do re [MAO ft.). 11 little towti of 1795 iiihab., on the Dur-
ilogne, whicli rises a few miles hislier up, lies in a beautiful valley
>urrounile(l on three sides by the loftiest heights of the Monts Dore.
To the charm of situation it adds the advantages afforded by very
import.int mineral waters, which haM' been known from the days
of tiie Romans and at present attract about 6000 invalids annually.
They are used both for drinking and bathing in cases of diseases of
the respiratory organs, incipient pulmonary affections, rheumatism,
chlorosis, etc.
The place itself is fairly well built but has no specially interest-
ing feature. It consists chiefly of one main street, ascending in the
ilirection of the valley, named Hue Favart below and Rue Rigny
above the Place Michel-Kertrand. The Thermal Ksfablishinent, in
the Place, is built with its back against the Moutiif/iie de I' Angle.
from which issue the mineral springs, and has an annexe to the N..
containing the vapour-baths. The springs, eight in number, are in
the order of their copiousness, as follows: Source Bertrdiid or de lii
Madeleine (113°Fahr.), Ce'mr and Cnroline. combined (113"), du
PnrUlou, (hand-lidhi or Bnin St. Jean (111°), Ramond (108°),
liigny (109°), lioyer (11.3°), Pigeon (11*2°), and Ste. Marguerite
(ij4°). These yield together about 90,000 gallons of water daily. In
the neighbouring hotel there is another spring (48°), and to the N.
the Snvrri' Boj/er-Kertrnnd (11.3°-1 14°'*, yielding 1.').800 gallons per
liueilekci-. Soutlicrn France. 1"
24'2 [[f. Route 34. LE MONT-DOUE. From Lyon ^
day. but as yet used only for drinking. In tlie gallery of the Estab-
lishment there are "buvettes' for the Cesar. Kamond (the most
chalybeate) . and Bertraud springs. The aerated water of the cold
Ste. Marguerite spring has an agreeable taste. The Rath Establish-
ment is open 4- 10 a. m. and 2-5 p. m. ; visitors may inspect it in
the interval.
The treatment at Mont-Dore is peculiar. It consists chiefly in
very hot baths (104-113° Fahr.), douches, vapour-baths, inhalation
of vapour, and equally hot foot-baths for the reaction. It requires
the supervision of a specialist. The patients are frequently carried
to ami from the establishment in litters or beds (porter, see p. 241).
A special flannel costume is worn. The season, nominally from
June 1st to Oct. 1st, only extends in reality from .Tune 15th to
Sept. loth, the climate at this attitude (3440ft.) being severe, the
more so from the fact that the valley is exposed to the N. . and
closed to the S. by the great wall of the Pay de Saury.
A little way from the Establishment, at the end of the street
that fronts it. is the Casino, a flne building erected in 1881 . with
a small park on the right bank of the Dordogne. In this park may
be seen fragments of Roman architecture and sculptiue. discovered
in rebuilding the Bathing Establishment in 1817. and later, lie-
mains of a Roman Pantheon lingered till 1793 on the site of the
Place Michel-Bertrand.
Excursions. - A number of interesting excursions may be
made from Le Mont-Dore. most of them by carriage or on horses or
donkeys (see p. 241). The following are the principal of these, the
first the most important of all.
To THE PuY DE Sancy via tlie valley. 2'/o hrs.. or 4 hrs. there
and back, by a road and path practicable for horses to within ^4 hr.
of the summit. We ascend the right bank of the Dordogne , from
the end of the main street, with the object of our excursion in front
of us. After about 550 yards a path diverges to the left to the
(irande Cascude. which is seen at a distance. It falls from a
sheer rock of trachyte to a depth of more than 100 ft.
We may also proceed froiii the tall tu the I'uy de Sancy. or return
past it at the e.xpense of S/^-l hr. e.stra. Ascending to it in 25 inin. we
tind a flight ol' step.>i in the r<iek with a handrail leading in 1/0 hr. to the
Plateau de Ourbi-e, over which we follow- foi' 1/4 hr. the route to the
valley of Cliaudefour (p. 246), and then tnrn to the right along the path
to Les Crete.s (line views), ahove the Roc de Ciizeau (5655 ft.) and the
Pic de Cacadofjne (5895 ft.), l)etween the valley of Le Mont-Uore on the
right, and the Valine de Chaudefour, on the left. The latter may he visited
from this side (p. 246). About 31/2 M. farther we rejoin the path which
ascends from the valley.
To the right of the valley rises first the I'ic du Capucin (4800 ft, ;
see belowj, which more or less resembles a head covered by a cowl:
then the Puy de Clieryue (5470ft.). Behind, opposite the Puy de
Sancy, is the Puy Uroa (4860 ft.). The carriage-road ends 7 M. from
the village; '/j ^^- farther is a bridge; and •'4 .M. farther we keep
lo lionleniix. PUY DE SANCV. ///. Route 34. 243
straight on . avoiding the descent to the left. To our right lies the
wild Vnllon de Lacour , with its streamlet. After about 1 hr. we
cross the Dort and then the Dogne, which descend from the Pay de
Sancy and unite to form the Dardogne. 2^U M. from Le Mont-Dore.
The Dore descends in a cascade from the Pay, the summit of which
is hidden by the black peaks bordering the Gorge d'Enfer, to the
right. About 7 miii. farther tlio long Cascade du Serpent is seen
among the trees, descending from the Puy de Cacadogne. Thence
the ascent is continued by a fairly good zigzag path to the left over
pastures to the (1 hr.) Col de Sancy, where we leave the horses
(50 c), and find refreshments in the season. Thence it is a short
>/4 hrs. walk to the top of the *PBy de Sancy (6185 ft.), the highest
mountain in the centre of France. A cross marks the summit.
The *Pakokama. is very grand and extensive, comprising to the N.,
the valley of the Dordogne and the Monis Dore, i. e. the mountains al-
ready named, several lower peaks to the right, farther away, the Puy
Harl/ier (,5670 ft.), Puy de Frigoux (5625 ft.), Puy de la Tache (5470 ft.), etc. ;
the Lac de Guery, overlooked bv the Roche Sanadoire (4225 ft.; p. 245);
to the left, the Puy Gros (4860 ft") and the Banne-d'Ordenehe (p. 240), and
on the horizon the Mouts Dome; to the W. forests, pasture - lands and
smaller Puvsi to the S., near at hand, another P\iy Gros (5920ft.), the
Puy Ferraiid (see below), the Puy de Pailleret (5680ft.) etc., the Lac
Chiiuvet and the Lac de la Landie , a wide stretch of pasture and the
Jlonts du Cantal; to the E., the Lac C'hambon, in the valley of Chaudefour,
ou this side of Murols (p. 245). — The view on this side is finer and more
complete from the Fiiy Ferrand (6055 ft.), which can be reached in l/o hr.
friim the .Sancy.
This excursion may be agreeably prolonged by descending on the other
side of the Puy de Sancy. In 3 hrs. we reach the hamlet of Yassii-ih-ef
(Inns), a celebrated iiilgrim - resort , with a church containing a black
statue of the Virgin, which is transported to Besse for the winter. About
3/4 hr. farther on, to the right of the road, is the Lac Paviii ('pavens':
3i890ft.), an ancient crater half- filled with water, over i/o 3L long and
nearly as bruad. Its precipitous banks, on which rises the I'uy de Monichal
(4640ft.), and the solitude which reigns all around, have given rise to
many weird traditions. About 2i/o M. hence lies Besse (II6t. Richard),
a curious and very ancient little town, with remains of fortifications includ-
ing a loth cent, belfry-tower. — The Grottes de Jonas, Si/a ^^- ti'om Besse,
are among the chief curiosities of Auvergne. They form an entire village,
now abandoned, the dwellings being hollowed out of the volcanic rock.
There are 64 of these abodes, at various elevations, connected with one
another bv winding staircases. Similar dwellings are to be seen at St. Nec-
taire (p. 246). The road leads on to Coudes (p. 205), ISi/o M. from Besse
(omnibus). Another road, to the left, halfway between Besse and the
grottos, leads to (51/2 M. from Besse) Murols (p. 245).
To THE Capucin, about 2V2 hrs. on foot there and back, ilorses
may be taken to within 10 min. of the top. The Plateau du Capucin
is one of the principal promenades of Mont-Dore. After crossing the
Dordogne we follow a steep path through the wood which clothes the
greater part of this mountain, and in 45 luin. reach the Salon du
Capucin, a forest clearing, where refreshments are to be had in the
season. Turning to the left, we skirt the Pic du Capucin ^4630 ft.)
in order to ascend it on the W.. tk.' onl> ;M-.-.'><ihlc side. I'he suiu-
l(i*
244 /;/. liuufe 34. LA BOURBOULK. From Lyons
mit is bare and affords a fine view of the valley of the Dordogne and
the surrounding mountains.
To La Boukboule. The carriage route to La Bourboule follows
the road toLaqueuille as far as the divergence mentioned on p. 240
(about 2M.), where it takes the left branch (2M.). On horseback or
on foot it is much more interesting to take the somewhat longer cross
roads, in the valley to the left. In the latter case we cross the Dor-
dogne, and turning to the right, follow the left bank of the river
until we are behind the hamlet of Rigolet-Hnut (on the left are con-
siderable beds of tufa); or we may take the shorter path which
diverges to the left near the beginning of the route and ascends to
Rigolet-Haut, afterwards rejoining the route. Thence we descend
straight to liigolct-Bas, turn to the left, and follow the banks of the
Cliergne streamlet. About I'/z M. higher up is a saw-mill. Near
the hamlet is the fine Cascade du Plat-d-Bnrbe (fee), so named from
the shape of the ravine into which it falls from a height of 55 ft. The
Cascade de la Verniere (fee), 10-15 min. lower down, is even finer,
though only 25 ft. In height. In a wood to the right is a (l'/2M.)
clearing, much visited by pedestrians, called the Salon de Mirabeau,
from the fact that Mirabeau-Tonneau , brother of the famous orator
of the Revolution , made it a rendezvous of pleasure parties when
he visited LeMont-Dore in 1787. The path along the right bank of
the streamlet leads to the Dordogne , on the other side of which , at
the above-mentioned fork, the road to La Bourboule is joined. This
point may also be reached by crossing the streamlet and proceeding
along the left bank of the Dordogne.
La Bourboule. — Hotels, HTitel Bellon bt DBS Iles-Britanniques,
GitAND-HoTEi, Or. -Hot. des Etrakgees, de l'Etablissement, Pehriere,
i)E Paris, all of the first class and on the right bank; Bristol; Splendid-
Hotel; Beausejour et du Casiko, de Frakce, less pretentious; i>u Parc,
DES Deux-Mondes, du Globe, de l'Europe et des Bains, de l'Univers ;
Algek, Bourboule, Poste, Russie, Helder, Louvre, des Amhassadeurs,
Continental. — Londres, des Sources, des Anglais, deVenise, Bellevue,
second class. Kumerous Villas and Furnished Houses.
Cafes, in the parks; Ca/e Fran^ais, opposite the chief Establishment.
Thermal Establishments. Drinking, lOfr. per season. Baths lV^-5 fr.
according to class and season ; douche 1-3 fr. ; together 21/^-8 fr.
Carriages dear, bargaining desirable. Public Conveyance, to Laqueuille,
p. 240; to Mont-Dore, l-i/n fr. — Saddle-horses, 6-10 tV. per day; Dotikeiis,
1 /o-l t"r. per hr.
Casinos. Casino de la Bourboule, Pare Chardon ; Casino de la Compagnie, Pare
de Fenestre. Subscription for the lormer, 2 t"r. per day, 10 fr. per week,
20 fr. for three weeks.
La Bourboule (2790ft.), formerly an insignificant hamlet, had
1616 inhab. in 1886, and is rapidly developing into a small town,
owing to the growing popularity of its thermal mineral springs, which
are said to attract about 7000 visitors annually. There are three
thermal establishments and two casinos. The chief springs, rising
on the Rocher de la Bourboule, a height above the town, are the
fioiirce Chounsy and the Source Perrierc with a temperature of 60°
to Bordeanr. MUROLS. III. lioxfe 34. 245
Fahr., used in cases of anaemia, rheumatism, lymphatic affections,
diseases of the skin and the respiratory organs, diabetes, and inter-
mittent fevers. La Bourboule has the character of a health-resort
for families and children, though complaints are made of its ex-
pensiveness.
ExciT.sioNs. The excursions from La Bourboule are practically the
same as those from Le Mont-Dore. — The J/o»<-Z)or« Road (41/2 M. -, carr.
see p. 244) ascends the right bank of the Dordogne and joins the road
from Laqueuille (p. 240) after about 2 JI. Cross-roads, see p. 244. Xear the
junction of the roads are the Cascades de la Vernikre and du Plat-a-Barbe,
often visited from La Barbonle. The former is visible from the road
(p. 244). They may also be reached via the right bank.
The Roche Vendeiz (3845 ft.) is nearer to La Bourboule than to Mont-
Dore. It lies about 2 31. to the S.E. of the former, via the valley of the
t'enestre, beyond tlie park of that name. In tbe Middle Ages it was sur-
mounted by a castle, of which no traces now remain. Tlie fine view to
the N. includes the wooded heights and tlie valley of the Dordogne, above
which rise the Puy Gros and the Baune- d'Ordenche. — At Pregnoux,
farther down to the N., obsidians are found. — A route descends on the
S. to (.5M.) Le Mont-Dore.
To MuROLS AND 8t. Nectaire (Issoire), 12'/., and 15'/.2M. ; car-
riage road. Pedestrians may follow the road to Laqueuille and after
about V4 M. turn to the right and ascend the valley of the streamlet
flowing from the Lac de Guery, and forming the Cascades du Qutu-
reilh (100 ft.') and du liossignolef , both of them well worth visiting
(see below). The carriage-road ascends to the right of the post-oflice
and skirts the Plateau de I'Angle, whence there is a magniticeat view
of the valley and the mountains already mentioned. As we round
the Rocher de I'Angle we sec before us the valley of Gu^ry. We next
cross the steamlet which forms on the right, at about l*/2 M. from Le
Mont-Dore. the Casrade du Sant-du-Loup and '/4 M. lower down
the Cascade du Queureilh (see above). The road turns to the left
and. '/., M. farther, forks.
The road to the left leads to Clermont (27 M. from Le Mon(-Dore). Xear
the fork, to the left, by the side of a saw-mill, is the Cascade du Rossignolet
(see above); i/.j hr. farther, to the right of the road, the Cascade du Pvi-du-
Barbier. About IV-.'"- thence. 5 M. from Le Mont-Dore, is the Lac de
ihUry, oval in shape, surrounded by pasture - lands and with a cascade.
.\boul 2f) miu. farther, to the left,' the Roche Tuiliire (4250 ft.); to the
right, the Roche Sanadoiie (4225 ft.), two masses of basaltic rock, very steep
and composed of very ciirious columns. .\ fortress which once stood on the
Roche Sanadoire has disappeared.
The roail to Murols and Issoire crosses, about 2'/»M. beyond the
fork, the Cot de Diane, between the Puy de la Tache (5455 ft.), on
the right, and the Puii de hi Croix- Morand (4960ft.), on the left.
It descends, via the hamlet of Diane, over a high plateau, partly
planted with pinos. at the end of which we see Murols, its castle, and
the Lac Chambon. To the right are the peaks of the Monts Dore.
12' ., M. Murols (llvfel. Sit'rat) , a village famous for its *Cai>He
(if the 13-1 5th centuries. The imposing ruins, perched on a mound
to the left as we approach , attract attention from a distance. The
chateau was once an extensive and splendid manor-house, and its
246 in. Ronfe .14. ST. NECTAIKE. frow Lyo),s
ruins are among the lincst now extant. One ot its towers lias been
restored and commands a very fine view. The guide expects a gratuity.
To the S. W. of Murols rises the Tartaret (3155 ft.), a volcanic cone
covered with pines; and behind it, about i/ohr. from the village, Is the
charming Lac Chambon, formed by the streamlet of the Couze de Chande-
four. This streamlet descends from the * Valley of C/iande/our, the upper
part of which is extremely picturesque. From this point we can easily
join the paths to the Puy de Sancy (p. 242), about 5M. from the Lac Chambon.
The road, turning then to tlieN.E., enters the valley of the Frcrfff.
151/2 M. St. Nectaire, a village with 1252inhab.. on the Fredet, con-
sisting oi St. Necftiire-le-Bas (Grand-Hotel des Thermes; de Paris;
Mandon-Serre; Madenf; etc.) and 8/. Necta.ire-le-JIaut (Hotel du
Mont Cornadore ; de la J'nix; de France). St. Nectaire has about
a dozen thermal mineral springs, and three thermal establishments:
the Bains Remains and the Bains Boette in St. Nectaire-le-Bas, and
the Etablissement du Mont-Cornadore . the most important, in St.
Nectaire-le-Haut. The llomanesque C/i»rc/( {ll-12th cent.) is in-
teresting and has lately been restored.
To the N.W. rises the Piiy de Chdteauneiif (3(M5{i.) with some shapeless
luins, and nine grottos near the top resembling the (irottes de Jonas
(p. 243). — About 13/4 M. to the S. is the pretty *Caiica(le de Granges, near
the village of that name, on the Couze; and to the E. are the stalactite
(irottes du Mont-Cornadore.
Railway to Tulle (continued). — Beyond Laqveidlle (p. 240)
the line passes into the basin of the Dordogne. The Monts Dore and,
afterwards, the Monts du Cantal occupy the horizon on the left.
Beyond (471/2M.) Boiirff-Lastic-Messei.r we descend the pictur-
esque valley of the CUdane, crossing the stream eight times before
(51 M.) La Celette, the old convent of which is now a lunatic asylum.
The line now passes at a great height above the stream and enters
a tunnel. — 52 '/^ M. Eygurande - Marlines (Hotel Ti.rier , at the
station), station for two villages, 1 '/j and I M. distant.
A branch-line runs hence in the valleys of the ChavanoH and Ltordogne
to (30M.) Larg/tac, via (21 M.) Bort, near which are the curious columnar
basaltic formations known as the Orgnes de Bort, and the fiaut de la Saule,
a fine cascade. — Krom.I-argnac, the temporary terminus, a diligence plies
to (12Vi; M. I Mauriac (/•>« de France), an ancient town (pop. 3575) with
a Romanesque church of the 12th century. — The railway when completed
will join tJie line to Aiiritlac at La Cap'elle-Vieacamp (p." 255).
57'/., AI. Air-la- Marsaloiise.
iW^M. Ussel (Hotel de la Hare), a town of 5252 inhab.. built on
a hill, '/.jM. to the S. of the railway. Here on a modern fountain
is a. Roman Kiijileiu granite, measuring 2 yds., found in anold Koman
• ampin the neighbourhood. Ussel is, perhaps, the Urellodnnnm of
the ancients (see pp. 92, 94).
Beyond a short tunnel is (72'/aM.) Meymac (Hotel de la dare),
with 4181 inhab., and an interesting church of the 11 -12th cen-
turies. Line to Limoges, see p. 38. - 76'/.j M. Lapleau-Maussar ;
SIM. SoudeiUes; 84V2 M. Eyletons: 88'/a'M. Rosiers-d'Eiiletons;
OOVi M. Montagnac-St. Hippolyte. Bey(tnd (fl:5'/.2M.) Ei/rein wc
/,. liovflraiix. TULLK. HI. lioufr 3J. 247
enter the valley of the Mo)>fnne. 96 M. f\>irhe, a small village at
the S. end of the Mone'dierex {2950 ft.).
98 Va M. Gimel , a village below which the Montane forms a
celebrated cascade nearly 400 ft. in height, often ratlier scanty and
divided into several falls, but imposing after heavy rains. — Then
come four short tunnels and a bridge over the Curreze.
106 M. Tulle (Hut. de la Comedie), a town of 16,277 inhab., the
capital of the department of the Correze, is picturesquely situated on
the Correze, near its junction with the Solane. The chief object of
interest is the Cathedral, of the 12th cent., with a fine tower of the
14th cent., but stript of its choir and its transepts in 1793. At the
side is a cloister of the loth century. Houses of the Renaissance
and even of the Middle Ages are still to be seen in the town. Tulle
possesses a government Fire-Arms Factory.
III. From Tulle to Bordeaux, via F^rigueux.
act y\. Railway in 6 lir.«. HO niin. (lares 27 Ir. 75, 20 Ir. 75, 15 fr. 25 c).
The first part of the way is through the deep -set valley of the
Correze. which is crossed several times before reaching Brive. Two
short tunnels, beyond which is (5 M.) Cornil. — 15 M. Avhazine,
which possesses, i^j^ M. to the left, an ancient abbey church of the
r2th century.
18 M. Brive (Buffet), on the line from Paris-Limoges to Tou-
louse (K. 12). Thence to Pe'riguexx and Bordeaux, see p. 91.
35. From Lyons to Toulouse via Le Puy and Aurillac.
Southern Auvergne.
349 m. Railway intert'stiiif;. Init no tlirinii;h trains. The lie.st plan
is to sleep at Le I'ny, whence lliere is a morning train witli connections
(fares about 69, 52, 38 I'r.). — From Lvons to Le I'tiy ^ 90 JI. , railway in
.53/4-63/4 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 85, 13 fr. 40; 9 fr. 70 c). — From Le Puy to
Toulouse, railway in about I51/2 hrs. — The trains start from the Gare
(le Perrache (p. 210).
To (36 M.I St. Efienne, see p. 227. — The line to Le Puy skirts
the town on the W.. passing the arms manufactory, to the right, and
crossing a curved viaduct. Beyond (38 M.) Le Clapier are two short
tunnels; and beyond (40 M.) Bellerue another, nearly I'^M. long.
41'/2 M. La Ricainarie . an industrial place of 6330 inhah.,
producing shoe-nails and bolts. In the neighbourhood are impor-
tant coal-mines, one of which has been on fire since the 15th cen-
tury.
43'/., M. Le Chanihon-Feucff miles, with 8532 iiiiiab. . has iron-
works and coal-mines.
45'/.j M. Firminy (Buffet; Hotel du Nord). another industrial
town with 13,992 inhab.. the centre of a coal and iron district.
Lines to St. Just-fur-Loire and Annonay-Si. Rambert-d' Albon , see p. 198.
248 III. no)jte 35. LE PUY. Froi» Lyons~
46'/2 M. Fraisse- Vnieux is tlie junction for St. Just-sur-Loire
(p. 197). After a tunnel we reach the banks of the Loire, which flows
between very picturesque mountains. — 4:7'/2 M. TjC Pertuiset. The
aspect of the country changes. A busy industrial region, black with
smoke and coal, is succeeded by a peaceful valley with picturesque
and verdant landscapes. On Mont Cornillon , to the left, are the
ruins of a fortress of the 12-16th centuries. We traverse a tunnel, a
viaduct 65 ft. high, and another tunnel, and beyond (Sl'/g M.)
Arirec. two more tunnels and another viaduct. To the right, beyond
the stream, is the ruined Chateau de liocheharon. 58 M. Bas-
Monistrol, the station for L'asfproii. 'Bass'), with 3093 inhab., 2'/2 M.
to the W., and Monistrol, with 4850 inhab. , 2 M. to the E. From
Bas we visit the ruins of Rochebaron , and Monistrol also has a
castle of the 15th century. Farther on are three tunnels and a
bridge over the Loire. — 61 '/2M. Font - de-Lignon. The valley of
the Loire becomes narrower. Beyond two more tunnels we cross the
stream twice.
69 M. Betournac , with 3744 inhabitants. Beyond it another
bridge and tunnel and, on a hill to the right, the ruins of the Chd-
eau d'Artiac. Beyond (71 '/a M.) Chatnaliere» we pass a bridge and
three tunnels. 77 M. Vorey and (80 M. ) St. Vincent are each
followed by a short tunnel. 82 M. Lavoi'tte-mr -Loire. The (7/i«-
tenu de Lavoute is visible from the railway, to the left a little
farther on. It is dominated by a modern castle. "We next cross the
Loire twice by bridges very close together; farther on follow another
bridge, three tunnels, a bridge, a tunnel, and .1 viaduct.
89V2 M. Le Puy {Hotel Garitier, Boulevard St. Louis 17; des
Ambassadeurs , Place du Breuil; de V Europe, Place de THotel-de-
Ville, moderate), the Roman Podium, a town of 19,031 inhab., was
the ancient capital of the Velay and is now the chief town of the
department of the ff ante-Loire. It is, taken as a whole, ill-built,
but it is picturesquely situated between the Borne and the Dolezan
on the slope of Mont Auis , on which rise the remarkable cathedral
and a rock with a colossal statue of the Virgin.
(Quitting the station we cross a suburb and, turning to the left,
via tlie Boulevard St. .lean, reach the large and fine Place dU
Breuil, the centre of the lower town. In the middle is the * Fon-
taine C'rozatier, presented by M. Crozatier, a bronze- founder , who
was a native of Le Puy (1796-1855). The imposing structure, in
marble and bronze, was designed by Pradier of Le Puy, the sculp-
tures byBosio. the nephew. The latter, all in bronze, consist of
a statue of the town of Le Puy , on the top of the monument,
and of seated statues of the Loire, the Allier, the Borne, and the
Dolezon, four rivers of the department, ami of genii, grouped round
four basins at the foot of the fountain.
On the other side of the Pl.ice is the I're'frrtinr ;inil. oti the left
I he Palais de .Tusfirr.
to TouloHi>f.. LE PUY. ///. llovte 55. 249
At the back of the Prefecture is a public garden , at the foot of
which is the Miisf'e, a fine modern building, also due to the muni-
ficence of Crozatier. It is open to the public on Sun. and holidays
from 2 to 5 in summer and from 1 to 4 in winter, and on other days
also for a small gratuity.
Ground-Floor. In the vestibule, sculptures and inscriptions: Charity,
by Ou(liH{[; Hygeia, by Julien. Room on the left: Remains of Roman
uionuments found at Le Puy, arranged without regard to order. — Room
on the right and following room: Roman antiquities, architectural and
sculptural: works of art of the Middle .\ges and the Renaissance; fur-
niture, miniatures, arms, ivories, tapestries, .\ntique vases: mtimmy.
First Floor. Paintings. Room I., to the right : Virgin on a gold ground,
of the lialiaH School; a coloured drawing reproducing the Dance of the
Dead at La Chaise-Dieu (p. 2.52); portraits. — Room II.. on the right,
besides some second-rate works of the Dutch and Flemish School: 14.
Uinbrian School, Virgin; no number. Barrias, Helen taking refuge at
the altar of Vesta; 94. Blondel, Triumph of Religion over Atheism; no
number, Brisset, Arrest of Conseiller Broussel (164S) . by order of .\nne
of Austria; no number, Lair, Punishment of Prometheus; Drolling, Part-
ing of Hecuba and Polyxena; After Raphael, The Virgin of Alba, an
ancient reproduction of the painting in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg; Ul-
inattH , Etienne Marcel and two other victims of the partisans of the
Dauphin in 1558. Iving assassinated at the door of a church in Paris;
23. Ribera, Death of Cato of Utiea: 62. P. Pourbus, Portrait of Henri II.;
63. Rubens, Departure of Adonis (the landscape by Brueghel). — Room III.
Natural Historv collection, specially rich in birds. — Room IV., on the
other side: 157. Largilliere, Portrait nf La Bruyere: 18. Givlio Ronutno,
The armed dwarf; 68. Tenters the younger. Open air concert; 45. ffob-
heina. Landscape; 10. ('. Dolci (f). Angel holding a lily; 5. Guercino,
Dsedalus and Icarus; 105. Dautatf, Interior of the Cathedral at .\lbi: 2. Cara-
vaggio. Study. There are also some soilptures. including the Battle of
the Centaurs and the Lapithae, in bronze, by Barye; a Virgin, also in
bronze, the last work of Crozatier. — Room V.: rich collection of lace-
work, guipures, etc. The manufacture of lace is the chief industry of
the district, employing upwards of 130.000 women.
The Rue St. Gilles. in the N. angle of the Place du Brenil. leads
to the Hotel de Ville. an uninteresting building of the 18th century.
C!ontinuing straight on from the other side, we reach a small square,
whence we see on the right, at the end of a steep street, the —
*C-VTHEDRAL OF NoTBF, -Dame. This church is very singular in
its general character, and particularly so in its arrangement, certain
|ieculiarities in which are quite unique. It dates chiefly from the
I 1th and i2th centuries. The church is approached by a grand
staircase which has 60 steps outside. 42 under the great vaulted
porch beneath the actual nave of the church, and 32 on the side, to
the right. Formerly this staircase went straight on . crossing the
pavement of the nave and joining the transept, in front of the choir^
in such a way tiiat the faithful misht see the officiating priest, it
is sai<l. from the steps outside. The great Portal comprises three
semicircular arches opening to the Porch, above is some smaller
arcadiug; then three windows, at the end of the nave, and three
•rabies, those at the sides extending beyond the roof and open.
Noteworthy, too. in this church is the mixture of white and black
-tone which is a characteristic decoration of the churches of Au-
250 IJ]. Rovti- 3n. I-K Pl'Y. I'nnii Lyonii
vergiie. Uiulpr the porch is a small chappl with traces of paint-
ings. Two of the steps hear the following inscription of the 11th
cent. : 'Ni caveas crimen, caveas contingere linien; Nam reginaPoli
vult sine sorde coli'. The flight of steps to the left, under the
porch, leads to the "^Cloister, by visiting which at once we avoid
retracing our steps. It is partly enclosed hy a fine Romanesque rail-
ing, which the verger will open, though it may be sufficiently well
seen without his aid. The most ancient part of this fine erection
dates from the 9th or even the 8th cent, and has lately been restored.
Its chief features are the little columns and the splendid cornice,
adorned with heads of men and beasts. The building to the W..
with machicolations, is the remnant of a 13th cent, fortress.
The Interior of the Cathedral presents a nave and aisles with
six domes in the Byzantine style, a small transept with a lantern
over the centre, galleries, and small double chapels at the ends, a
square choir, and a kind of apse under the tower (see below). On
the high altar is a small modern black statue of the Virgin, not less
venerated than the one that preceded it , ilestroyed in 1793. The
votive offerings hung up on the pillars of the choir indicate the
character of the prevalent devotion. At the farther side, on the wall
of the tower, is a noteworthy fresco of the end of the 13th cent.,
removed from the cloister (see above) and lately restored ; its chief
subject is Christ between the Virgin and 8t. .John.
Making our exit by a door at the end of the left aisle we find
ourselves under the N. Portal, with a very slightly pointed arch.
The 8. Portal, on the other side of the tower, is very remarkable.
It forms a curious kind of porch, each side presenting a round arch,
connected with the others only at three points. The Tower, one of
the rare examples of Transitional clock-towers still extant, has seven
stages with Romanesque arches, plain and trefoil -headed , inter-
mingled with pointed arches.
Adjoining the S. portal is the Bishop'n Palace. From the small
square in front of it there is a fine view.
A lane which ascends from the side of the N. portal, between
a Baptistery of the 4th tent. , on the right , and a Renaissance
Chapel ('Societas Goiifalonis", 1584), on the left, leads to the ap-
proach to the Rocher de Corneille (10 c).
The RocHEB. DE CoRNEiLLE, which forms the summit of Mont
Anis, is a mass of volcanic breccia, rising to a peak 420 ft. above
the lower town and 2480 ft. above the level of the sea. We reach
it by a succession of stairs hewn in the rock. At the top was erected
in 1860 a Statue of Not re- Dame de France. 52 ft. in height, on a
pedestal of 20 ft. It was designed by Honnassicux, and is made
with more than 200 Russian cannons, taken at Sebastopol, like those
which lie around it on the platform. The Virgin is represented
-landiiig erect, and holding the child .Icsus who is blessing France.
iNotwjthstandiiig its colossal size, it is not in keeping with the
/,, Tovliviff. LE PUY. ///. Ro>ite .35. 251
rock (111 wliich it stands. Visitors may ascend inside the statue to
tbe lit-ad. Tlie openings made at various places permit ns to enjoy
the splendid view afforded by the environs, with their grand amphi-
theatre of monntaiii«. consisting chiefly of the C^vennes, amongst
whidi the Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs (p. 252) are specially
conspicnous to the S.E. In the subnrb of Le Pny. to the N.W., rises
the Rock of St. Michel (see below). Farther away, to the left, is
Kspaly and its Orgues (p. 252'i ; to the right, the ruins of Polignac
ip. 252), etc. — On the platform of the Kocher de Corneille is the
bronze Statue of Mgr. de Morlhon, Bishop of Le Pny (d. 1862), also
by Bonnassieux.
In descending it is better to pass again by the cathedral than
to entangle oneself in the winding and ill-paved streets which
surround it.
The street at the foot of that wliicli ascends to the cathedral
leads towards the western Boulevards, where we note, on the left as
we arrive, a low, massive tower, with machicolations, forming the
remains of a town-gateway of the 13th century. On the next Boule-
vard is a Statue of La Fayette (1757-1834), by Iliolle. — We de-
scend by the Boulevard at the side of the tower.
St. Laurent, a church of the 14th cent., in the lower part of the
town, near the Borne, contains the Tomh of Bertrand dn Guefclin
(d. 1380). with the statue of the famous warrior. To the left of the
entrance is a Gothic font, in the shape of a tabernacle.
The street on this side of the church leads to the base of a rock,
similar to the Kocher de Corneille but even more picturesque, on
which stands the Chiirch of St. Michel-d'Aiguilhe. It is reached
by a succession of stairs with 277 steps (10 c, paid to the 'lessee'
who is always to be found at the top). This church, or rather chapel,
is an architectural curiosity, dating from 962-84. The plan is very
irregular. It forms a sort of oval , the chancel occupying the end
to the right of the entrance, while in front of this chancel is a
small central aisle, inclosed with very low pillars and surrounded
by a small aisle. The portal is adorned with curious bas-reliefs.
Opposite to the entrance stands an isolated tower, of the same style
as that of the cathedral ; the upper part is less ancient than the church.
In tlie suburb, a little way off in front of the rock, is an old
12th century chapel of the knights- templar, called the Temple
of Diana.
Excursions. — The following are the principal uf I lie nmiieiou.s px-
cursiiins that may be made in the neiglibonrlioocl of I.i- I'liy.
To Ksi'Ai,V, Poi.iGNAC. ANi> La C II A isK-DiEV . Ksjjal.v lies fully 1/;. Jf.
to the W., I'olignac, 3 M. to the X.W. , I,a Chaise-Uieu is 31 JF. ' distant
liy tlie mad which passes between the two. There is a service of pulilic,
carriages for the last-named place from tlie station of Darsac. 13 Jl.
from I,e I'liy (p. 253)-, fares 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 15 c. in summer. — The road
crosses the Borne beyond the Churcli of .St. Laurent and ascends for a
cosiderable distance, leaving on the right, lialfway, a direct patli to
I'olignac, by which we may return. — Efpaltj , to which another road
252 III. Roiile35. LA CHAISE-DIEU. From Lyons
on the left leads, is a large village , above which we may see from the
road, a curious mass of basalt, showing fine columns, called from their
arrangement the Orgues (VEspaly. — Polignac, situated farther to the right
of the road to St. Paulien and La Chaise -Dieu, is celebrated for the
imposing ruins of the *Castle of the same name, on a rocky plateau
which overlooks it and on which are found Roman remains, seen in the
midst of the other ruins. The plateau is encircled by a battlemented
enceinte in a tolerably good state of preservation. The road which
ascends to it begins near the church. The remains oftlie castle, properly
so called, dating from the 12-15th cent., are scanty. The guide (gratuity)
gives the necessary explanations. The principal parts are the keep,
square and very high (Mth cent.), and a round tower (13th cent.), vvhich
together give to the whole a picturesque appearance.
The second route mentioned above is in the valley on the other side
of Polignae; it skirts the high ground on the right.
The road is continued across a very broken country. .\t Si/.i M. it is
joined by the road from Darsac and 2 M. farther reaches Nolhac. — 13 M.
.S(. Paulien, a small town near which is the site of Ruessium, tlie capital
of the Vellavi or Velauni. The Church (11th cent.) occupies the site of
an antique building, and other antiquities have been found. To the left
is seen the Mont de Bar (3825 ft.), a volcanic mountain, ascended in
I'o hr. from Allegre, 8 M. from St. Paulien, whence it is reached by a
good road which joins our road 6 M. fartlier on, 4 M. from La Chaise-
Dieu. — 20 M. St. Just-presChomelix. Here, and again at (261/2 M.) Cham-
home, (jur road bends to the left.
31 M. La Chaise-Dieu (Lion d'Or), a village with 1782 inhab., situated
on a hill (3575 ft). It owes its name to a celebrated Benedictine abbey,
the Casa Dei, fovmded about 1036 by St. Robert. Amongst its abbots
and nominal rulers have been Roger de Beaufort, aftersvards Pope Cle-
ment VI., Mazarin, Richelieu, etc. The vast buildings of the Abbeit were
surrounded in the 14- 15th cent, by fortifications, parts of which stiVl
remain, notably the Tower of Clement VI., at the side oftlie church. There
are few traces of the Cloister which dates from the 14-15th cent. , to
which time also belongs the present Church. The facade is approached by
a grand flight of steps and is flanked by two towers, which have, how-
ever, lost their spires. The wide nave and aisles are uniform in height.
In the choir is the mutilated tomb of Clement VI. , some magnificent
stalls, tapestries of 1501-1518. and, on the left, in the ambulatory a re-
markable but very dilapidated Dance of the Dead (p. 249) by an un-
known artist of the second half of the 15th century. — Brioude (p. 206)
is only 24 M. from La Chaise -Dieu, but there is no public conveyance
thither.
To THE Mezkno via Lk JIonastier. a carriage-road (put)lic convey-
ance, 1 fr. 60c.) leads from Le Puy to (12JI.) Le JIonastier; thence a bridle-
path to tlie (4hrs.) Mezenc. We proceed to the E. At (21/2 51) Brive-
Charensac , we cross the Loire. Tlie Mezenc road turns to the riglit. To
the left is the Mont-Dove (2740 ft.), on whicli stands an old I2th cent, abbey
of the Premonstrateusians. Kartlier on, to the right, on another eminence
is the fine Chateau <le BouzoU, the oldest part of which dates from tlie
llth century. 12 JI. Le MonaMier (Hot. Issartel) , with 4000 inhab., owes
its name to a monastery of which the church remains, partly Roman-
esque in style. In 21/2-3 lirs. more we reach the village of Les Estables,
from which the ascent of the Mezenc is made in I1/4 hr. — The Kezenc
(5750 ft.) is a volcanic mountain, isolated and pi'ecipitous, e.vcept to the W.,
tlie side ne.xt Les Estahles. Its sides aft'ord e.xcellent pasturage. From the
fop there is a line panorama e.xtending westwards to the mountains of
the Canfal, northwards over the mountains on lioth sides of the Loire,
and the valley cif that river, eastwards to the mountains of Dauphine
and Savoy, as far as Mont lilanc, and southwards to the Ovennes, amongst
which the Gerbier-de-Joucs (see below) is conspicuous, and to the western
extremity of the Alps, where, on the horizon, Mont Ventou-\ rears itself.
About 41/2 lirs. from the Mezenc is the Gerbier-de-Joncf, another volcanic
1,1 Tovhjiisr. MUKAT. 1 1 1. HoHte 35. I^)?,
mountain on which the Loire rises. Its height has been only 5090 ft.
since a land.slip which occurred in 1821; before that it was 5610 ft.
Beyond Le Puy the railway turns to the S., commanding on the
right a fine view of the picturesque town. We cross the Borne and
ascend its valley for some distance. From (98 M.) Borne a diligence
plies to (3M.) St. Paulien (p. 252), and from (102 M.) Darmc, a di-
ligence plies to La Chaise-Dieu (see p. 251). We traverse a tunnel,
I'/sM. long, in the Monts du Velay, beyond which the line attains
its highest point (3660ft.), afterwards descending into the valley of
the Allier, with magnificent views to the right, extending as far as the
Monts Dome (pp. 238, 239). — 107 M. Fix-St. Geneys; 110 M. La
Chnud, beyond which are a tunnel and a wide sweep to the 8., round
the A/(Mi<-liri"anfo« (3420ft.). — ii^M. Rougeac ; i22M. St. Georges-
d'Attrac. Here Ave join the line from NImes to Clermont-Ferrand,
which we follow via Paulhaguet, Frngitres-U- Fin . and Brioude,
to (143 M.) Arrant (see p. 205).
The line which crosses the Cantal is also very interesting and
its con.struction has demanded much engineering skill. It attains
an elevation of 3800 ft. in the tunnel of Le Lioran (p. 254). The
best views are to the right. — iAfoM. Lenipdes, on tYn^Alagnon. The line
ascends the picturesque and in places very narrow valley of that river,
with an extensive retrospect to the right. Before the next station 7
bridges and 5 tunnels are passed. 154 M. Blesle, on the right, at the
foot of columnar basaltic rocks ("orgues"). — 158 M. Massinc ;i&2M.
Molompiae. Hue view^ into a valley on the left. The river frets along
on the right; and on the same side are the ruins of a castle. Before
and after (167 M.) Fe/v/e/'es are tunnels. Beyond a rocky gorge appear
some ruins on the right; to the left is the line to St. Flour, etc.
173 M. Aeussavgues (Buffet). Line to St. Ftunr, Millnn. and Be-
s/w,s (Gausses de la Lozere), see H. 56.
We next perceive, at a distance on the right, the ruins of the
Chateau de Merdogne. On the same side there is a fine view. We
recross the Alagnon.
nS'/jM. Murat (Hotel Gaurain) , an ill-built town with 3140
inhab. , at the foot of a basaltic rock crowned by a colossal statue
of the Virgin. On the left the Plomb du Cantal appears (see below).
The valley contracts as we enter the region of the Monts dn Cantal
and the line rapidly ascends, crossing a dozen bridges or viaducts,
running through a short tunnel, and overlooking deep valleys, with
rocky or wooded gorges, torrents, and cascades. - 186 M. Le Liorau
(Hot. du Cantal), a good centre for excursions.
The Plomb DC Cantal may be a.scended hence in less than 2hrs., 3hrs.
there and back; guide 5 fr. We follow the high road as far as a tunnel,
where we take the stony path to the right, which bends to the left before
a wood. We then direct our course towards a 'biiroii' or herdsman's hut
which we reach in less than 1 hr. ; and thence scale the .summit on the
N. side.
The 'Plomb du Cantal l6095ft.) is volcanii-, like all ilu- lu.iunlaiiis of
'2r)4 ///. noufe 35. AURILLAC- Fntm Lyons'.
Auvergne, and culminates in an isolated cone, whence radiate a number
of valleys. The view from the summit is said to command a circumference
of 150 BI. In the neighbourhood, to the S., is the Piiy Oros (5245 ft.), to
the X.W. the Pup Griou (5560 ft.), farther oft', the Puy Mary (5860 ft.), the
Puy Ckararocke (5720 ft.), the Puy Violent (5230 ft.), etc., all forming part
of the same group. To the N. are the 3Ionts Dore. with the Pic de Sancy,
and the Monts Dome; to the E. the Cevennes and the Alps-, to the S.S.E.
the Pyrenees.
The Pay Mary (5S()0 ft.), the peak most frequently visited next to the
Plomb, may be ascended in 4 hrs. from Le Liorau. — The ascent of the
Puy Griou (5560 ft.), which commands the most interesting view of the
Cantal group , takes only 1-1 Va br. , bv the old route through fine pine-
woods, to the W. of the Signal du Lioran (4490 ft.).
Beyond a viaduct we now enter the Tunnel dn Lorian, l'/^ M.
long, by which we pass from the basin of the Loire to that of the
Garonne, where we descend the valley of the Cere. Above the rail-
way is the Col de Saxjnes (4100 ft.), between the Puy Lioran (4660 ft.)
and the Plomh du Cantal (see above). The road to Aurillac. also
passes through a tunnel here, nearly 1 M. long, always lighted. —
We cross a viaduct. 100ft. high, and beyond a short tunnel, three
more viaducts, nearly as high. To the right is the Puy Griou. to the
left the Plomb du Cantal. — 190 xM. St.Jacqii.es-des-Bliits (3250 ft. ^
The village (Inn) lies '/, M. distant in the valley.
The Plomb du Cantal may be ascended from this point also, in 5-6 hrs.
there and back; guide 5 fr. We cross the Cere and the railway above
the station, and ascend towards the N.E. (short-cuts by the footpaths) over
pastures, with herdsmen's huts ('burons'). lu 20 min. we reach the huts
of St. Erval, and in 35 min. more the Grange du Sarret. Thence we proceed
to the left to the (50 min.) 'burou' of the Pre Delbos, which we leave on
the right (fine view), and in Ihr. more we reach the •buron' o( Pranadal
at the base of the crest, by which we climb in i/.i hr. to the summit of
the Plomb (see above).
Beyond St. Jacques the route is not less interesting. The Cere
flows through splendid gorges, along which the railway is carried by
works of great engineering skill, including six viaducts and two short
tunnels, with a line cascade between the first and second. Behind
us, to the right, appears the Pay Chavaroche , while on the left we
skirt the Puy Gros. - Beyond (194 M.) Thiezac, we pass through
three more tunnels, and traverse fine wooded gorges, beyond which
the valley widens. Kxtensive view to the right. — 196' 2 M. Vic-
sur-Cire, beautifully situated, with remains of fortifications. In the
environs arechalybeate and aerated springs, used for baths. —
199V2 ^I- Polinlnhac with an old castle to the right, and a modern
chateau to the left. Farther on are several other old castles. We
now enter the plain. Beyond (206'/2 M.) Arpajon the line turns to
the N. On the right is Aurillac.
209 m. Aurillac {Buffet; Hotel St. Pierre, atLeGravier, far
from the station; de Bordeaux, des Trois-Freres, Place du Palais-
de-Justice), on the Jordanne, with 14,613 inhab., is the chief town
of the department of the Cantal.
The street which descends from the :^tation Ie;id> to the I'laic du
/(; Toulouse. YTKAC. ///. Route 3:). '2')")
Palais-de-Justice, whence is seen, on the rijilit. the pretty Keiiais-
sance tower of Sofre-Dame-des- yeige-'*. Hence the Avenue du Pont
leads to Le (Jrarier, a square decorated with a bronze Sfat'ie of
tienenil Delzons (1775-1812), w^ith bas-reliefs (1883), and, farther
on. a Statue i>f (teebeil (Pope Sylvester II.), of Aurillae, also in bronze
and with bas-reliefs, by David d' Angers.
The Church of St. Geraud, which we reach by turning to the
right, into the Rue du Buis, is a 15th cent, building, recently con-
tinued and with a -^till unfinished tower. It was dependent on an
abbey founded in tiie 9th cent, by its patron saint, born in the cha-
teau of Aurillae. It has finely reticulated vaulting. In a chapel on
the left are some paintings of the 16th cent., and behind the pulpit
a Death of St. Francis Xavier, attributed to Zurbaran.
From the door of the church we may see. on an eminence, the
Chateau, in great part rebuilt and transformed into a normal school.
— The Rue du Monastere and the Rue du Consulat. on the right,
lead into the middle of the town. At the end of the Rue du Con-
>ulat is the Hotel des Coni<iils, a 16th cent, house, with turrets and
a fine Gothic gateway in the street on the left.
The College, in the ■vicinity, contains a small Museum, open to
the public on Sun. and Thur>. from I to 4. and on others days also
ti» .strangers.
A single large rooui, (Hi llie liisl tUior, contains paintings and sculptures.
On the right, 9. Dutch .'ichool, Landscape; 35. Gourilet, The Steward; 73.
.School of Oioilo, C'rucili.xion; 80. Syrouy, Prodigal son; 71. Geniiari, Virgin
.suckling the infant .lesus: 64. Cassolini, Virgin and Child; 65. Maiietti, Saint;
68. Lagren^e, Fidelity of a .Satrap; 82. Vagrez, Education of Achilles; 12.
Monginoi, The Rent; 83. Callias, Devotion of the Chevalier d'Assas; 70.
Sir PeUr Lely ( Van der Faes)^ Portrait; 14. Largilliere, Portrait; etc. In the,
middle, Maiiglier, Kortune, in bronze; Boisseau, Daughter of Celuta mourn-
ing for her child, in marble.
Returning to the Rue des Consuls, we proceed to the right, by
the Rue .Marchand. to the Place de rilotel-de-Ville. and straight on
thence to the Palais de Justice.
'214 m. Ytidc. On the right is a large and lofty viaduct intended
for the lines to St. Denis-pres-Martel (p. 92) and Largnac (p. 246),
not yet finished. The view on this side extends as far as the moun-
tains of Auvergne (p. 234). — 219 M. La Chnpelle- Viescainp, beyond
which is a high viaduct, the last over the valley of the Cere. On the
right the view is fine and extensive. AVe pass two viaducts and a
"utting through the rock. — 224'/, M. Le Rouf/et. whence we descend
into the wild gorge of the Moulegre, in which we successively come
to four bridges, four tunnels, and three more bridges. Beyond (231 M.)
Jioisset we pass a viaduct, cross the iMoulegre three times, aiul pass
by a tunnel into the valley of the Rnnce, where a tine view presents
itself to the left. Then follow rocky gorges, two viaducts, a tunnel,
and four bridges. — 237 M. Maurs, a small commercial town, beyond
which is another bridge and a viaduct over the Ranee, whence we
'2')C) III. notile 3.'>. FIGEAC.
pass througli a sLort tunnel into the pretty valley of the Cele, cross-
ing the stream twice. — 241 V2M. Bojrnac, followed by another bridge,
a short tunnel and a last bridge over the C^l^. To the right is —
249 M. Figeac, on the line from Paris and Limoges to Toulouse
(p. 93).
IV. THE FRENCH ALPS.
36. From Lyons to Geneva 260
From Amberieu to Montalieu and Sabloiinieres. From
Virieu-le-Grand to Pressins (St. Andre'-du-Gaz) , 261. —
The Credo, 262. — Geneva to Annemasse ; to St. Julien, 264.
37. From Lyons to Aix-les-Bains 264
Marlioz. Lac du Bourget. Abbey of Hattteeombe, 265. —
From Aix-les-Bains to Lyons, by the Rhone, 266.
38. From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy and Geneva . . . 266
39. From Bellegavde and Geneva to Chamonix . . . 267
a. Via Annemasse and Cluses 267
The Saleves. From Annemasse to Sixt, 268. —
From Cluses to Sixt (Chamonix). Mont-Kuan.
Pic du Tenneverge. Pointe Pelouse. Desert
de Plate. From Si.Kt to Chamonix via the Cols
d'Anterne and du Brevent , 269. — The Buet.
Pointe-Perce'e. St. Gervais-le- Village. Col de la
Forclaz, 270. — Gorges of the Diosaz, 271.
b. Via Annemasse, LeBoiiveret, Martigny, and
the Col de Balme " ... 271
The Voirons, 271. — Val d'lUiez. From Cham-
pery to Samoens via the Col de Cou.x and the
Col de la Golese : to Sixt via the Col de Sa-
gerou, 272. — Glacier de Trient, 273.
40. Chamonix and its Environs 274
Aiguille de Charmoz. Aig. du Dru, 277. — Aig. de la Tour.
Pierre a TEchelle. Plan de TAiguille. Aig. du Midi,
279. — From Chamonix to the Buet; to Courmayeur via
the Col du Ge'ant; to Orsieres via the Col d'Argentiere.
Col du Chardonnet and Col du Tour, 280.
41. Mont Blanc 280
Ascent of Mont Blanc, 281. — Tour du Mont Blanc, 281. —
Mont Joli. Col du Mont Tondu and Col de Trelatete. 283.
— From Chapieux to Bourg-St. Maurice, 'J8i. — Mont de
Saxe. Grammont. From Courmayeur to Chamonix via
the Col du Ge'ant: to Mar(ignv via the Col Ferret; to
Bourg-St. Maurice, via the Litt'le St. Bernard, 2SG.
42. From Chamonix to the Valais 286
a. From Chamonix to Martigny via the Tete-Noire 287
The Glacier d'Argentiere, 287.
b. From Chamonix to Vernayaz via Finhaut and
Salvan . 289
The Cascade du Dalley, 289.
43. Annecy and its Environs 290
Excursions to the Semnoz, the Parmelau, and the Tournette,
291-293. — From Annecy to Albertville, by the Lake
and Faverges, 293. — To Chamonix via the Lake, the
Valley of the Arly, and St. Gervais, 294. — To Flumet
via the Col des Aravis, 294.
Baedeker. Southern France. l7
258 THE FRENCH ALPS.
44. From Lyons to Chamb^ry 295
a. By St. Andr^-du-Gaz 295
b. By Culoz and Aix les Bains 296
Environs of Chambe'ry, 297.
45. From Chamb^ry to Albertville and Moiitiers. The
Tarentaise 297
From Albertville to St. Gervais (Chamoni.x) via Ugines,
298. — From Albertville to Beaufort, 298. — Excur-
sions from Moutiers: Mont Jouvet; Pointe de Crevc-
Tete, 299.
46. From Moutiers to Tignes via Bourg-St. Maurice . . 300
From Aims to Beaufort; to the Mont-Jouvet, 300. — Mont-
Pourri, 301. — From Ste. Foy to Val Grisanehe, 301. —
Excursions from Tignes : Aiguille de la Grande-Sassiere,
302. — Pointe de Bazel. To Notre Dame de Rhemes.
To Bonneval, via the Col du Mont-Iseran, 303. — From
Val-d'Isere to the Pointe de la Sana; to the Cime de la
Vache and the Grande Aiguille Rousse; to Ceresole, 304,
— To Bozel , via the Col du Palet ; Grand Bee de Pra-
lognan, 305. — To Peisey via the Col de la Tourne or
the Col du Palet. To Entre-deux-Eaux via the Col de
la Leisse, 306.
47. From Moutiers to Pralognan 306
Vallee des AUues, 307. — Excursions from Pralognan-.
Petit Mont Blanc. Rocher de Villeneuve, 308. — Rocher
de Plassas. Dent Portetta. Grand Marchet, 309. — To
Thermignou via the Col de la Vanoise , 309. — Pointe
de Creux-Koir. Pointe de la Gliere. Pointe du Val-
lonet. Grande -Casse. Grande-Motte, 310. — Dome de
Chasseforet. Aiguille de Polset. To Modane via the Col
de Chaviere, 311.
48. From Chamb^ry to tlie Maurienne 312
I. From Chamb^ry to Modane (Turin) .... 312
Blont Cenis Tunnel. From Modane to Turin. Mont
Thabor. Pointe a I'EcheUe. Pointe Renod, 314, 315.
IL Upper Valley of the Arc and its Mountains . 315
Mont Cenis Road, 315. — Excursions from Bessans :
Pointe de Charbonel; Pointe de I'Albaron. Roche-
Melon, 316. — From Bessans to Lanzo. Pointe des
Arses. Pointes du Chatelard, 317. — From Bon-
neval to Ce'resole via the Col du t'arro -, to Lanzo.
Mulinet. Levanna, 318.
49. From Lyons to Grenoble (Marseilles) 318
Lac de Paledru. From Voiron to the Grande Chartreuse,
319. — From Voreppe to the convent of Chalais and the
Grande Aiguille, 320. — Environs of Grenoble, 324. -—
Excursions from Grenoble: Grande Chartreuse, 325. —
Grand Som, 326. — To Sassenage and the Gorges of the
Furon. To the Chateau de Beauregard and the Tour Sans-
Venin. The Moucherotte. To the Gorges d'Engins and
de la Bourne, 327. — To Pont-en-Royans, via Sassenage
and Villard-de-Lans. From Grenoble to Valence, 32S.
50. From Grenoble to Chambi^ry. Uriage, AUevard, and
their Environs 329
THE FRENCH ALPS. 251)
a. From Grenoble to Chamb^ry 329
Croix de Belledoiine. From Tencin to Theys (Sept-
Laux), 329. — Granier, 330.
b. Uriage and its Environs 330
E.xcursions. Chartreuse de Premol. Waterfall of
Oursiere. Croix de Chamrous.se , 331. — Croix de,
Belledonne, 332.
c. Allevard and its Environs 332
Excursions. To the Chartreuse de St. Hugoa, 332.
— To the Sept-Laux; the Puy-Gris; the Grand
Charnier, 333.
51. From Grenoble to Brian^on 334
a. By Road 334
Taillefer, 334. — Col du Galibier, 336.
b. By Railway 337
From St. Georges-de-Commiers to La Motte-les-Baius
(Corps, La Salette), 337. — Grand Veymont. Mont
Aiguille. From Clelles to Corps. Grand Ferrand.
339. — Pic de Bure. Tallard. From Gap to Corps,
340. — Vieux-Chaillol. From Prunieres to Baree-
lonette and Larche, 341. —From L"Argentiere-la-Bessee
to Vallouise. Croi-K de Toulouse. Pic de Prorel,
343. — From Brianfon to the Grand Pic de Roche-
brune; to Oulx (Mont-Cenis line), 344.
52. The Pelvoux Range and its Environs 344
a. Excursions from Le Bourg-d'Oisans, Oz, and
Allemont 345
Grandes-Rousses. Pics de Belledonne, 346. — Grande
Lance d'AUemont. To St. Christophe and La Be-
rarde, 347. — Bocliail. Lac de Lovitel. From Venose
to Le Freney. Col de la Muzelle, 348.
b. I^xcursions from St. Christophe and La B^rarde 349
L From St. Christophe to the Glacier de Mont-de-
Lans and the Col de Lauze via the Lac Noir, 351.
— Aiguille du Plat. Roche de la Muzelle. Tete
de Loranoure. Aiguille du Canard. Aig\iille des
Arias, etc. Montague de TOurs. Tete des Fetoules,
351. — Tete de I'Etret. Aiguille and Pic d'Olan.
To La Chapelle-en-Valgodemar via the Col des
Sellettes. To Clot-en-Valgodemar via the Col de
la Muande. Col du Says. Col du Loup, 352.
II. From La Berarde to the Tete de la Maye, 352. — Tete
du Graou. Tete du Rouget. The Plaret. Tete de
la Gandoliere. The Rateau. The Meije, 353. —
Pave'. Tete de Charriere. Barre des Ecrins, 354.
— Fifre. Pic Coolidge. To Villard-d'Arene and
La Grave, via the Cols du Pave', des Chamois,
des Aigles, du Clot - des -Cavales , de la Grande
Ruine, Giraud-Lezin, de la Casse-De'serte, 355-357.
— Grande Aiguille. Rocher de Lancula. Cime de
Clochatel. To Clot-en-Valgodemar via the Col
des Rouies (ascent of the Rouies), via the Col du
Chardon. Tete de Che'ret. Pic du Says. Les Bans,
357. — To Vallouise via the Cols de la Temple,
de la Coste-Rouge, de I'Ailefroide, du Sele, de la
Pilatte, 358.
17*
2(30 IV. Route 36. ST. CLAIR.
c. Excursions from Vallouise 360
Pointe de I'Eygliere. Crete des Boeufs-Eouges. From
Vallouise to the Valgodemar. Col du Sellar. Pic de
Bonvoisln. Pie des Opillous, 359. — Cols du Loup
and du Sirac. Mont Pelvoux. Mont Salvador Guil-
lemin. Sommet de I'Ailefroide, 360. — To la Be-
rarde , via the Cols de la Temple , des Col des
Ecrins, etc. Barre des Eerins, 361. — Pie de Neige
Cordier. To Villard d'Arene, via the Col du Gla-
cier-Blanc ; via the Col Emile-Pic, 362.
d. Excursions from La Grave. Villard-d'Arene, and
Le Lautaret 362
To St. Christophe via the Col de la Lauze. Bee de
rHomme. Pic de Neige du Lautaret. Pic Gaspard.
Grande Ruiiie , 362, 363. — To la Berarde via the
Breche de la Meije, the Col du Clot-des-Cavales, the
Breehe de Charriere, the Col de Roche-d'Alvau.
To Vallouise, via the Col-Emile Pic, via the Col
du Glacier-Blanc. Aiguille de Gole'on, 364. —
Aiguilles d'Arves. To St. Jean-de-Maurienne via
the Col de I'lnlernet. Koche du Grand-Galibier.
Pic de Combeynot, 365.
e. Excursions from Le Monetier 366
To the Refuge de I'Alpe via the Col d'Arsine. Pie des
Pres-les-Fonds. Lac des Pres-les-Fonds. Lac de
TEchauda, 366. — Montagne des Agneaux. To Val-
louise via the Col de TEchauda. To Mont Tha-
bor via Nevache, 367.
53. Valine du GuiL Queyras. Monte Viso 367
A. From Mont-Dauphin-Guillestre to Abries . . 367
From Giuillestre to St. Paul-sur-Ubaye ; to Maurin. Font
Sancte , 367. — From La Maison-du-Roi to Maurin.
Castel Delfino. Pain de Sucre. Grande Aiguillette.
Tete de Pelvas, 368. — Bric-Bouehet. Bric-Froid, 369.
B. From Abries to Monte Viso 369
Roche Taillante. Pic Traverse, Granero. 369.
54. From Grenoble to Digne. Basses Alpes .... 370
From Digne to Barcelonnette; to Colmars; to Puget-The-
niers, 371. — From Digne to Castellane, 872.
36. From Lyons to Geneva.
104 M. Railway in 4-7 hrs. (fares 20 fr. 75, 15 fr. 60, 11 fr. 45 c.). Best
views to the left.
Lyons, see p. 210. — All the trains start from the Gare de
Perrache (p. 210) and then, crossing the Rhone and leaving the
lines for Marseilles and Grenoble on the right, skirt the S.E. side of
the city. There is also a special station for the Geneva traffic at
Les Brotteaux. on the E., not far from the Tete-d"Or Park (p. 223),
whence the trains depart 20-25 miii. later than from Perrache. To
the left we see the church of Fourviere and then recross the Rhone.
51/2 M. St. Clair, the last of the Lyons stations, where only slow
GULOZ. IV. Sou te 36. 261
trains stop. lO'/a M. Miribel, a manufacturing town with a ruined
castle. We now quit the Rhone. 13 M. Beynost; i6K. Montluel,
another small manufacturing town , with the remains of a very
ancient castle. 19 M. La Vnlhonne. where there is an artillery-
range, to the right. 24 M. Mexiniieux . a small town dominated by
an 11th cent, castle (restored). About 2 M. farther on we cross the
Ain to (29 M.) Leymenf. To the right is the chateau of La Servetfe.
We now approach the Jura Alps and cross the Albarine, a tributary
of the Ain.
32 M. Amb6rieu (Buffet; Hotel de la Gare), a small town on the
Albarine, at the foot of the Jura. Railway from Macon, see R. 28a.
A branch-line, for local traffic, runs hence via (4 M.) Le Saiilt (p. 26&)
to (11 M.) MontaUeu in the llhone valley, and thence to (23 M.) Sahlon-
nieres, a station on the line from Lyons to St. Genix-d'Aoste (p. 224).
The route now enters the Jura by the lovely Valley of the Alba-
rine and crosses the river several times. Numerous vineyards. 39 M.
St. Rambert-en-Bugey , a small manufacturing town with the re-
mains of the Chateau de Cornillon on a rock to the left. The valley
now contracts and becomes wild. From (44 M.) Tenay (Hotel), in -a
curve of the valley of the Albarine, a diligence plies to (S'/j M.)
Hauteville (Hot. Roland), apicturesquely situated summer-resort. —
We now quit the valley of tlie Albarine and enter a solitary gorge,
beyond which we skirt several large ponds. On the right is the
Molard de Don (4020 ft.). Beyond (52 M.) Rossillon the train passes
through a tunnel, 620 yds. long, and reaches the Lake of Pugieu.
— 56 M. Virieu-le-Orand.
From Virieu to Pkes.sins (St. Andre-du-Gaz), 29 M., railway in IV" lir.
(fares 5 fr. 90, 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 20 c). — 9 M. Belley (Ildtel Charles) is a very
ancient town with 6160 inhab. , prettilv situated and the seat of a bish-
opric. — 12 M. Brens, about U/4 M. to the W. of the fort of Pierre-Chatel
(p. 266). Then we reach the banks of the Rhone whose channel is here
very varying. Beyond (19 M.) Br^gniei- - Cordon we cross the Rhone near
the mouth of the Guiers and then the line from Lyons to St. Genix-d'Aoste
(p. 224). — 231/2 M, Ao.tte, II/4 M. to the S.W. of St. Genix (p. 224; dili-
gence 30c.), on the site of the Roman colony Augustum or Augusta, of
which a few fragments remain. — 29 M. Pressins (p. 295).
58'/.j M. Artemare. The line skirts Mont Colombier (5030 ft.)
to the left, a fine view-point, best ascended (4'/2 hrs.) from Culoz.
We then enter the Rhone valley and obtain a good view of the Alps.
63 M. Culoz (Buffet: Hot. FolUet, at the station), at the base
of Mont Colombier, on the right bank of the Rhone. Railway to
Aix-les-Bains, see R. 37.
The railway to Geneva ascends the valley towards the N., on the
right bank of the Rhone. — 72'/2 M. Seyssel consists of two places
of the same name , connected by a suspension-bridge ; that on the
left bank is in Savoy. Here and at the next station are asphalt
mines. Through a short tunnel and across a viaduct over the Ve'ze-
ronce we reach (71 M.) Pyrimonf. The valley becomes picturesque,
and four tunnels are traversed, the two last over '/a M. long.
84 M. Bellegarde (Buffet; Hot. des Touristes, de la Paste, both
262 IV. Route 36, GENEVA. From Lyons
near the station), a town of 1725 inhab., on the frontier near the con-
fluence of the Rhone and Valserine, with the French custom house.
A natural curiosity , the Perte du Rhone , was formerly to be seen
here. This was a chasm in the limestone into which the river disappear-
fd when its waters were low (Nov. -Feb.) for a length of 100 paces.
Although this attraction has now ceased to exist, the traveller will not
regret stopping at Bellegarde, as this part of the valley is very picturesque.
The street to the left of the hotels leads down to a bridge over the deep
bed of the Valserine , 430 yds. to the right of which is another bridge
over the Rhone, at the point where that river used to plunge beneath
the rocks, now blasted away. Higher up, to the left, is the entrance to a
conduit 820yds. long, 600yds. being underground, at the other end of which,
below the bridge , are 3 turbines (waterwheels on vertical axes) giving
motive power to two factories. To see the turbines, apply at the first
of the factories ; they cannot be seen from the opposite bank. — We may
also visit the Valserine Viaduct (near the station), mentioned below, and
the Gorge, 85 ft. deep, which the river has hollowed out of the limestone
rock, forming a 'Perte'. or subterranean passage, more than 400yds. in
length, about I1/2 M. from the viaduct.
The Cr6do or Crei de la Goutte (5275 ft.), to the N.E., may be ascended
in 4 hrs. from Bellegarde, with a guide, via the Plateau de Menthiire and
the Chalet au iSac. It commands a very fine view over the Rhone valley
and as far as the Lakes of Geneva, Bourget, and Annecy.
From Bellegarde to Mantua and Bourg, p. 191; to Chamonix, p. 268.
Beyond Bellegarde we cross the imposing Vaherine Viaduct,
275yds. long, of which the main arch is 102ft. wide and 170ft.
high., and traverse the Tunnel du Cre'do {2'/2 M.; 5'/2 min.), through
the mountain of that name, and the Defile of the Eclvse, a deep
arid narrow depression between the extremity of the Jura and Mont
Vuache (3440 ft.) by which the Rhone escapes from Switzerland.
The defile is commanded by Fort de I'Ecluse, situated on a crag
(1385 ft.) to the left. The origin of this stronghold dates back to
the times of the Dukes of Savoy, but it was rebuilt, under Louis XIV.,
by Vauban and dismantled by the Austrians in 1815. Since 1824
it has been repaired and strengthened by the addition of a smaller
fort. A short tunnel, of 93 yds. , beyond the Credo tunnel was , to-
gether with part of the railroad , destroyed by a landslip in Jan.
1883. Farther on, beyond another tunnel, the view opens on the
right. The line to Annemasse (p. 268) diverges to the right across
the Rhone and enters a tunnel. 90 M. Collonrjes. — 92 M. Chancy-
Fougny is the frontier station. Chancy, on the left bank, is in the
canton of Geneva. Beyond (95 M.) La Flaine the railway leaves
the Rhone. — 99 M. Satigny; 101 M. Vernier -Meyrin. We now
traverse a beautiful plain studded with villas.
104 M. Geneva. For fuller details see Baedeker's Switzerland.
Hotels. On the Right Bank; on which is the station : Hot. des Bergubs,
DE RUS-SIE, DE LA PaI.X, BeAU-RiVAGE, d'ANGLETERRE, NATIONAL, On the
quays, with a view of the Alps; Hot. Suisse, Victoria, de Geneve,
Rue du Mont-Blanc (D. 3 fr.); de i.a Gare, (R. 2 fr.), etc. — On the Left
Bank, on which is the old town: de la Metropole, de l'Ecu, with a
view of the lake; de la Poste (R. 3 fr.), du Lac, de Paris, etc.
Caf^e. Kiosque des Bastions, on the promenade of that name (p. 263} v
Ca/i du yord, de la Couronne, de Oenive, on the Grand Quai: du Thi&tre,
at the new theatre; de la Poste, Rue du Mont-Blanc and Rue Pecolat, etc.
to Geneva. GENEVA. IV. Route 36. 263
Cabs. Per drive, 1 fr. 50; per hr. , 2 fr. 50; each 1/4 hr. addit. 60 e.,
luggage 50 e. — notel-omnibuses meet the trains.
Steamer, see p. 264.
Geneva (1243 ft.), with 72,000 inhab., is the largest and richest
town in Switzerland and the capital of the smallest canton next
to Zug. It is admirably situated on both banks of the Rhone at the
S. end of the Lake of Geneva.
From the station the handsome Rue du Mont-Blanc leads direct
to the lake. From the Pont du Mont -Blanc , the first of the six
bridges that connect the two parts of the city, as well as from the
adjoining Qua'i du Mont -Blanc , a delightful view of the Mont
Blanc range may be enjoyed in clear weather. Beside the Quai du
Mont-Blanc is the Square des Alpes with the magnificent Monu-
ment to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (d. 1873>, who bequeathed
his property to the city. On the other bank, near the bridge, is
the Monument National, erected in 1869, in commemoration of
the reunion of Geneva to the Confederation in 1814. Farther on is
the pretty Jardin Anglais with an excellent Model of Mont Blanc
(50 c). Below the Pont du Mont-Blanc is the small lie de J. -J.
Rousseau, reached from the next bridge, the Pont des Bergues. In
the middle of it is a bronze Statue of Rousseau, by Pradier.
On the hill, at the slopes and foot of which the old city is situ-
ated, rises the Cathedral, finished in 1204 in the Romanesque style,
but disfigured by subsequeiit alterations, especially by the addi-
tion of a Corinthian portico in the 18th century. — To the W. of
the Cathedral, at 11 Grand' Rue, is the Must'e Vol (open Sun. and
Thurs. 1-4), a valuable collection of Roman and other antiquities.
— Higher up, on the right in ascending the Rue de la Terrasse, is
the Must'e Rath (open to the public daily except Tues. and Sat.,
and then also to strangers for a small gratuity), containing modern
and ancient pictures, sculptures, and casts from the antique.
Adjacent is the tiew Theatre, built in 1872-79 with part of the
Bmnswick legacy; in front of it is the bronze equestrian statue of
General Dufour (A. 1875), after Laiiz. On the other side of the square
are the Promenade des Bastions, the Botanic Garden, and the
Promenade de la Treille. On the first of these is the University,
built in 1867-71, and at the end of La Treille is the Hotel de Ville,
adjoined by the Arsenal, containing a historical museum (adm. Sun.
and Thurs., 1-4).
To theS.E. of the Botanic Garden is the Athe'nte, the home of the
Society des Beaux-Arts ; farther on, the Boulevard Helvtitique which
passes close to the Observatory and the handsome Russian Chapel
and descends towards the lake, beyond the .lardin du Lac.
The Lake of Geneva or Lac Ltman (1230 ft.) is a vast sheet of
water, of deep blue colour, formed by the Rhone which runs through
it and by 41 streams that fall into it. In shape it resembles a crescent,
with its outer (N.) curve 50 M. and its inner curve 42 M. long. The
264 IV. Route 37. AIX-LES- BAINS.
breadth varies from I'/a to 8M., and its greatest depth is 1100ft. The
N. and larger portion belongs to Switzerland: the S. part, from Her-
mance to St. Gingolph has belonged to France since 1860.
Steamers ply along both banks of the lake, starting from the Quai dii
Mont-Blanc and from the Jardin du Lac. From Geneva to Le Bouveret,
by either bank , 41/2-5 hrs. — For details see Baedeker's Switzerland.
From Geneva to Annemasse (Annecy), 31/2 M., railway in 13-22 min.
(fares 65, 50, 35 c.). The trains start from the'Eaux-Vives station, to the
E. , on the S. bank of the lake (tramvv'av from the Place Molard; cab,
2 fr.). — 21/2 M. CheneBourg. — 31/2 M- Antiemasse (p. 268) is the junction
of the lines from Bellegarde to Bouveret (p. 261), to Aix-les-Bains (p. 267),
and to Cluses (Chamonix, p. 268).
The Voironf (splendid view) are easily reached by taking this line to
Annemasse, and thence the Bouveret line to Bons-St. Didier (p. 271).
From Geneva to St. Juliek, narrow gauge line in 50 min. (fare 75 c.),
starting from the Quai de la Poste , and connecting at St. Julien with
the line from Bellegarde to Bouveret, via Annemasse (p. 268).
37. From Lyons to Aix-les-Bains.
771/2 M. Railway in 31/^-51/4 lirs. (fares 15 fr. 50, 11 fr. 65, 8 fr. 55 c.).
From Lyons to (63 M.) Culoz, see p. 261. — Here our route di-
verges to the right from the Geneva line, crosses the Rhone, and
at (67 M.) Chindrieux reaches the N. end of the Lac du Bourget
(745ft.), which is 10 M. long and 3 M. broad. To the right, on a
wooded hill projecting into the lake, is the old chateau of Chatillon.
The train skirts the E. bank of the beautiful lake, which is noted for
its 'lavaret', a kind of fish not unlike a mackerel. To the E. a pleas-
ing view of the Dent du Chat (p. 266), the monastery of Hautecombe.
and the old chateau of Bourdeau. The right bank is at first closely
hemmed in by heights, pierced by four tunnels over^/4M. long, but
afterwards we reach a fertile plain and gradually withdraw from the
lake. Fine view after the third tunnel. We round a portion of thelake.
7772 M. Aix-les-Bains — Hotels: Grand-Hotel d'Aix, Avenue de
la Gare ; Ghand.s - Hotels Bernascon & de l'Eieope, de l'Ukivers, dv
NoRD, and Venat, in the Rue du Casino; Grand-Hotel de la Galerie,
between the Rue du Casino and the Place Centrale ; Splendid -Hotei,,
finely situated above the .lardin Public. All these are of the first class, with
corresponding charges. Slightly less expensive: Gr.-Hot. des Bergues,
Avenue de la Gare; Gk.-Hot. du Globe, Hot. des Bains, Rue du Casino;
Bealisite. above the Jardin Public; *Ch.\teau-Duriei-x, Boul. des Cotes:
*H6t. Guilland & de la Poste, Place Centrale; Hot. Laplace, Hot. de Ge-
neve, Rue du Casino; Hot. de l'Etaklissement Thermal, by the Baths;
Hot. Damesin & Continental, Rue de Chambe'ry; Hot. de la Poste,
Germain, Bot^srr, Garin, du Pahc, etc.: Hot. des Voyacelrs, Place du
Revard; Gaillai!I>, Rue de Geneve, pens. 7i/._> fr. At the height of the season
(.Tuly and Aug.). H. in the best hotels 15-20 fr., in the others 5-10 fr. —
Pensions and fHrnislii^d Nouses also abound.
Cafes-Restaurants. Dardel, Place Centrale; Gr. Cafi de la Oare , etc.
Cab, per drive, l-2pers. 1 fr., 3-4pers. 2 fr. ; per hour, with one
horse 3, with two horses 4 fr. — Voitvres Publiques for excursions (to
Marlioz, Port Puer, etc.). Place Centrale.
Casinos. Cerde, Rue du Casino , adm. 3 fr. ; season-ticket 40, for 2 pers.
65 fr. — Villa des I'lenrs, Avenue de la Gare, similar.
English Physicians: Dr. Stanley M. Kendall; D r . William Waiefield .
English Church Service during the season: Chaplain, the Rev. H. O.
Miller, M. A.
AIX-LES- BAINS. IV. Route 37. 265
Aix-les-Bains (850 ft.), with 5580 inhab., is well situated about
l*/4 M. from the Lac du Bourget in a plain environed by mountains.
Its climate is very mild, the mean temperature being 55° Fahr. It
owes its importance to its warm sulphur springs, which were known
to the Romans, who named the spot Aquat Gratinna. At the present
day it is visited annually by more than 12,000 bathers.
The Avenue de la Gare ends in the Place du Revard, near the
Public Garden. To the left is the chief .street, the Rue du Casino,
to the right the Rue de Chambery, and a little higher up, on the left,
the continuation of this street, towards the Place Centrale, with the
church, to the left of which we ascend in a few minutes to the Baths.
The Etablissemenf Thermal, open all the year round, is a re-
cently built and well-managed institution. It is supplied from twd
copious springs , of 107° and 163° Fahr. : St. Paul's , or the Alum
Spring, and the Sulphur Spring. The treatment, prescribed chiefly
for rheumatism and skin -diseases , includes douches of every de-
scription and 1)aths, after the use of which the patient is carried to
bed enveloped in wraps. The waters may be drunk gratis, and are
supplied to public drinking fountains in the Place outside the estab-
lishment.
In front of the building is the Arch of Campaniis, resembling a
triumphal arch but in t^ct a burial-monument of the 3rd or 4th cent.,
erected by a certain L. Pompeius C'ampanus to his family. It is 30
feet high and 22 ft. wide. Eight niches contained the urns of the
persons whose names may still be read.
The Hotel de Ville , close by, originally a chateau of the 16tli
cent., contains a small Museum of antiquities, chiefly from the lako-
dwellings of the Lac du Bourget (open daily, 9 to 12 and 2 to 5:
50 c.). - The Casino is a richly ornamented building, dating from
the palmy days of the gaming-tables. Gaming still goes on to a
considerable extent and grand fetes are also given. The ViUa des
Fleurs (see above) has a beautiful garden where concerts are held.
Atiout 1 M. to the S. of Aix on the Chambe'ry road i.s Marlioz (omnibus,
return-fare 60c.), with a large and beautiful park and three cold .sulphurous
springs, chietly used for drinking and inhaling. These thus supplement
the Ai.^ springs which are little used for drinking.
Aix has many beautiful walks , and numerous delightful excursion.*
may be made in the neighbourhood. Among the best are those on the
Lac du Sourget (p. 264), from Port Piter, 2 M. to the W. of the town, via
the Route du I.ac, wliicli leads to the left at the end of the Rue de Ge-
neve. (Jmnibus from Aix to the Port, 50 c. Boats for a row or excursions.
Steamers in summer. On Sun. a steamer makes the circuit of the lake,
stopping at Hautecombe (fares 3-2V" fr.) ; trip to Bourget and Bourdeau
2 fr. ; etc.
'Hautecombe, a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank uf the lake,
at the foot of the Mont du Chat, is another interesting point (steamers
halt for 1 hr.). The abbey, which was the burial-place of the Princes
of Savoy until 1731 , when the Superga near Turin was chosen for that
purpose, was destroyed during the French Revolution, and handsomely
rebuilt in 1824 by Charles Felix. King of Sardinia. The church contain.s
the monuments of Amadeus V.. Vl.."vn.. Humbert III., Louis I., Baron
266 IV. Route 38. RUMILLY.
de Vaud, Jeanne de Montfort, Count Haymon, Boniface of Savoy (Arch-
bishop of Canterbury), the splendid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy, Anna
of Zahringen, etc. The view from the neighbouring Phare de Qessens has
been described by Rousseau.
The ancient Chateau de Bourdeau or Bordeau is also visited for the
sake of the view. Farther to the S., at the influx of the Leisse, lies the
village of Le Bourget (IlOt. Ginet), with a ruined castle and a church in the
Transitional style, the choir of which contains fine basreliefs of the
13th century. — Ascent thence of the Dent du Chat (5304 ft.), 4 hrs. , by
a good bridle-path; splendid view of the Alps, including 3Iont Blanc.
Gorges du Sieroz and Cascade de Gresy, see below. — From Aix-les-
Bains to Chanibiry, see R. 44 b; to Annecy and to Geneva and Chamonix
BR. 38, 39. Another route to Chamonix starting from Annecy, via the
Lac d'' Annecy, ValUe dWrly, etc., p. 294.
A Circular Tour may be made from Aix-les- Bains via Chambiry,
AlberiviUe , Lac d' Annecy, Annecy, and the Gorges du Fier (tickets, valid
for 15 days, 13 fr., 10 fr. 50 c). — Another includes in addition the crossing
from Chambfry to Grenoble via Voiron (Grande Chartreuse), returning via
the valley of the Isere (15 days; 25 fr. 50 c, 20 fr.).
From Aix-les -Bains to Lyons by the Rhone, 68 M. , steamboat on
Jlon., Wed., and Frid. in summer, in 8 hrs. (13 hrs. return); fares 9 fr.
and 5 fr. Of this interesting route the chief features are the Defile of
Yenne , dominated by the (22 M.) fort of Pierre - Chdiel , on an isolated
hill, 560 ft. above the Rhone and about II/4 BI. from the railway station
of Brens (p. 261); the Passage du Sa^ilt (55 31.; p. 261) , where the river
forms some rapids; and the Grotte de la Balme (adm. 2 fr.), about a mile
from the landing-place at (61 M.) Chateau de la Salette.
38. From Aix-les-Bains to Annecy and Geneva.
62 M. Railway to (25 31.) Annecy in 11/4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65,
2 fr. 65 c). — From Annecy via Annemasse to (37 31.) Geneva, Railway in
23/4-33/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 55, 4 fr. 5 c). Best views to the right.
— If this route be taken in the opposite direction there is a custom-
house examination at Evires.
The train runs at first to the N. through the valley of the Sieroz,
which has worn a deep channel for itself, called the Gorges du
Sie'roz (where a small steamhoat plies). 2'/2 M. Gre'sy-sur-Aix,
with a ruined castle and a pretty waterfall (see above), l^j^ M.
Alberts. Through an opening to the right appear the Semnoz and
the Tournette (p. 293). lO'/aM. Bloye. At(13M.) Kumilly(1095ft.;
Paste), a little town of Roman origin, we cross the Cht'ran. A
pleasant excursion may be made hence to the N.AV., by the Seyssel
road (public conveyance) into the Val de Fier, the most picturesque
part of -which stretches from (S'/jM.) St. Andre' to the (8 M.) Fortes
du Fier.
The train turns to the E. and enters the pretty valley of the
Fier. 17 M. Marcellaz-Hauteville. We now traverse the wild and
romantic De'file'du Fier (twelve bridges and two short tunnels). On
the left, near the end of the gorge, rises the chateau of Montrottier,
of the 14-16th centuries. 20'/2 M. Lovagny (restaur, at the station
and at the entrance to the gorge); V2 ^I- to the E. are the *Gorge8
du Fier, a grand ravine 275 yds. long, enclosed by limestone rocks
nearly 300 ft. high, rendered accessible by a wooden gallery (1 fr.),
90 ft. above the usual level of the water. In 1888, however, the
LA KOCHE-SUR-FORON. IV.RoxUeSS. 267
torrent rose so high as to wash away the restaurant at the entrance
(now restored). Beyond Lovagny we obtain a fine view, to the right,
of the Parmelan , the Semnoz, and the Tonrnette. Tunnel of 1270
yds. ; then a bridge across the Fier.
25 M. Annecy (p. 290), to the right.
The railway from Annecy to Annemasse and Geneva crosses the
Fier, and turns to the N. into the valley of the Filllere. On the
right rises the Parmelan (p. 290). 30 M. Pringy-la-CailLe ; 31 M.
St. Martin -Charvonnex; 35 M. Groisy-le-Plot. Beyond a curved
viaduct and a short tunnel , we cross the great *Evires Viaduct,
160 ft. high, on which the trains slacken speed to allow the enjoy-
ment of the view. At (39 M.) Evires, the line reaches its highest
point (2950 ft.). Travellers in the opposite direction are subjected
to the formalities of the custom-house here, as that part of the de-
partment of Haute-Savoie which adjoins Switzerland is exempt from
French duties (p. 266). Two tunnels, the first 1320 yds. long.
The train now descends, making a long bend to the E. , and
enters the valley of the^rt;e, of which it aft'ords a beautiful survey.
Beyond (44V2 M.) St. Laurent is a viaduct, 157 ft. high.
48V2 M. La Roche-sur-Foron (1804 ft.; Hot. de la Balance,-
Croix Blanche), a village ot 3355 inhab. on the Foron, a tributary
of the Arve (see below), with a 12th cent, tower, the relic of an an-
cient castle. Railway to Cluses and diligence thence to Chamonix
see below.
Farther on, to the right, are the Mole (p. 268) and the Yoirons
(p. 271); to the left, the Salevea (p. 268). — 51 M. Chevrier ; 53 M.
lieignier. — Then three viaducts, beyond which the line joins the
Bellegarde and Bouveret Railway (p. 271), and crosses the Arve
(p. 268). 56'/2 M. Monnetier-Mornex, whence the 5aiere (p. 268)
is ascended.
58V2 M. Annemasse (p. 268), the junction of the line from Belle-
garde to Evian and Bouveret. — 59'/2 M. Chene-Bourg (p. 264).
62 M. Geneva (Gare des Eaux-Vives), see p. 262.
39. From Bellegarde and Geneva to Chamonix.
a. Yik Annemasse and Cluses.
From Bellegarde 77Vo, from Geneva 56 M. From Bellegarde to Cluses,
50 M., Railway in SV" lirs. (fares 9 Ir. 80, 7 fr. 35, 5 fr. 40 c.) ; from Geneva,
28V3M., in 13/4 hr. (fares 5 fr. 70, 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 15 e.). Dilioence from
Cluses to Chamonix, 271/2 BI., several times daily in connection with the
trains in 41/2 hrs. (8 fr.J. Through - tickets for the Bellegarde line are
issued at Paris, Dijon, Macon, Lvons , etc.; from Geneva at the Eaux-
Vives Station (to Chamonix 1st class 13 fr. 80, 2nd 12 fr. 35 c).
Bellegarde, p. 261. Beyond the Valserine Viaduct and the Cre'do
Tunnel (p. 262) the line diverges from that to Geneva, crosses the
Rhone, enters a tunnel of 300 yds. , and skirts the frontier. The
Fort de I'Ecluse continues in sight for a long time behind us. To
268 IV. Route 39. GLUSES. From Bellegarde
the left are the Jura and the valley of the Rhone. — 8 M. Valleiry
(on the right, the Saleve; see below); 12 M. Viry; 15 M. St.JuUen
(narrow gange line to Geneva, see p. 264); 17 M. Archamps; 20 M.
Basse Lf-Veiirier.
The Pas lie TEchelle , a steep footpath, but devoid of difficulty and
shady in the forenoon , leads hence in i/o hr. to Monnetier (Hot. de la
Reconnaissance), a village situated between the two summits of the Saleves
(railway from Geneva to the SIonnetier-Mornex station, on the other side
of the mountain, see p. 267). The Petit-Saleve (2959 ft.) may be ascended
hence in i/o hr.. and the Grand-SalSve (4291 ft; Inn) in li/-j hr. Superb view
of Mont-Blanc, the Lake of Geneva, the Jura, etc.
The line skirts the N. flank of the Saleve and reaches the banks
of the Arre, affording a view of the Alps with the Mole in the centre.
We then join the Annecy line (p. 267) and cross the Arve.
24 M. Annemasse (1427 ft.; Buffet; Hotel de la Gare, de la
Pnix. at the station; National, in the village). Railway to Geneva,
p. 264; to Annecy and Aix-les -Bains, R. 38.
From Annemasse (Geneva) to Si.xt, 40 M. , carriage-road, in 7 hrs. by
an omnibus (5 fr.) leaving Geneva (Rue de Rive 13) at 10 a. m. — 171/2 M.
,5*. Jeoire (Couroune) , between the Pointe des Braffes (4945 ft.) and the
Mole. The Mole (6130 ft. ; fine view) is ascended in 4i/p hrs. from St.
Jeoire (31/2 hrs. of which are practicable for horses), via the chalets of
Pinget, Chars d\imo , Ara , and EcuUeux. — At (26 M.) Taninges (Hotels)
we .join the road from Cluses (p. 269).
Continuation of railway to (.34 M.) La Roche, see p. 267. The
lino to Cluses diverges here to the left from the Annecy line, crosses
the Foron and beyond a short tunnel descends into the Arve valley;
on the right are the rocky precipices of the Pointe d!'Anrfe,v(6165ft.),
on the left the Mole and farther back the Voirons. SS'/a M. St.
Pierre-de-Rumilly. Then across the Borne and the Arve to —
41 M. Bonneville (1457 ft.; Couronne ; Balances), a little town
of 2358 inhab., picturesquely situated among vine -clad hills. A
handsome bridge crosses the Arve, on this side of which, to the
right, stands a monument to the Savoyards who fell in the campaign
of 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises a monument , 73 ft. high,
to King Charles Felix of Sardinia. To the right we now obtain a
superb view of Mont Blanc, wliose dazzling peaks towering majesti-
cally at the head of the valley seem to annihilate the intervening
distance of nearly 30 M.
The line skirts the right bank of the Arve, traversing a broad
and fertile valley bounded by lofty mountains . and crosses the
Giffre. From (45 M.) Mariynier (1530 ft.; Inn at the station) a road
leads through the valley of the Giffre to (6 M.) St. Jeoire (see above).
On the hill to the left is the castle of Chdtillon (see below).
50 M. Cluses (1590 ft. ; Hotel Revnz), a small town, chiefly in-
habited by watchmakers, is the present terminus of of the Cha-
monix line.
From Ci.uses to Sixt, 201/.^ M. , carriage-road (diligence daily). The
road ascends in windings to (81/2 M) CtidtUlon, and .joins at (7 M.) Taninges
the road from Geneva and Annemasse to Sixt (p. 268). — 151/2 M. Samoena
(2490 ft.; liStel de la Paste; dit Commerce), pop. 2523, on the Gifl're. Good
to Chamoynx. COL D'ANTERNK. IV. Route 39. 269
view from the little chapel, 10 inin. above the ehureh. [From Samoens
we may proceed, to the N., either to the left via the Col de Jouplane
(6685ft.; Inn), or to the right via the Col de la Golese (5485ft.) in 4hrs.
to Morzine (Hotel fles Alpes); then down the Drance valley to Thonou
(p. 271). — To Champ^ry, on the N. , in GV" hrs. via the Col de la Goti.<:e
and Col de Coiix (6825 ft.); see p. 272.)
Heyond Samoens we thread a defile, where the Gifl're forms a water-
fall, 157 ft. in height, and enjoy a fine view of the Sixt Valley to the left
and of the Vallee des Fonds (see below) to the right.
201/2 M. Sixt (2483 ft.-, mt.-Pens. du Fer a Cheval , R. &L. 3, D. 3 fr.).
In spring when the melting of the snow swells the streams the neighbour-
hood of Sixt presents a most striking appearance owing to the magni-
lieent cascades which precipitate themselves from the mountains into
the valley. In the upper part of the valley alone, known as the Fer a
Cheval (horse-shoe), as many as thirty waterfalls may be counted; but from
midsummer onwards their number is reduced to five or six. Near Fond-
de-la-Combe , at the head of the valley (3 hrs. from Sixt; carriage -road),
is a waterfall under a snow vault 100 paces in depth.
From Sixt to Chauipery via the Col de Sagerou ((5 hrs. ; 7915 ft.) see
p. 272. The Col is to the W. of Mont-Ruan (10,100 ft.), the ascent of which
is easily made thence in 41/3 hrs. with a guide. The view is very fine
but intercepted on the E. by the Tour Sallieres and inferior to that from
the Buet (see below).
The Pic de Tenneverge (9780 ft.) which rises imposingly at the head
of the Sixt valley may also be ascended from the Col de Sagerou in 5V2-6
hrs., with a guide (difficult). It may also be climbed from the Col de
Tenneverge (7845 ft. ; 7 hrs. from Sixt) in 21/.2 hrs., but there is no hut on
that side in which to sleep. The descent to Sixt by the latter route
takes 6 hrs. The view resembles that from Mont-Ruan , but the Lake of
Geneva is not seen, though the view of the Sixt valley is better.
The ascent of the Pointe Pelouse (8120 ft.) is made from Sixt in about
6 hrs. via the Lac de Gets (huts). The summit afl'ords a very fine view
of Mont Blanc. The descent may be made to Le Fayet and St. Gervais
(p. 270), via the Divert de Plate ('lapiaz') and the Escaliers, resembling the
path from the Gemmi (Switzerland).
From Sixt to Cuamonix via the Col dAkterneand the Col duBreveut,
10 hrs. (mule-track), a very interesting excursion, at least as far as the
Col d'Anterne, the route thence to Cliamonix over the Col dii Brevent being
long and somewhat monotonous. If the weather is settled and there has been
no snow, a guide (18 fr. there and back) may be dispensed with. Provi.sions
should be taken as only a little milk can be reckoned on during the journey.
We first ascend the Vallee des Fonds to the S., past a picturesque waterfall
on the right, to (i/ahr.), Salvagny (in front rises the beautiful Pointe de
Sales), and beyond'the Cascade du Uouget (right) to the (U/2 hr.) Chalet des
Fonds (45.50ft.), near which is 'Eagle's Nest', the summer residence of
Mr. Wills, at the foot of the Buei (see below). About 5 min. farther
up we ascend to the right (the path to the left leads to the Col Lechaud,
see above), following a wide curve past the Chalets de Grasse-Chh're to
(1 hr.) the saddle of the Has du Col d'Anterne. Then leaving the Chalets
d'Anterne below us to the right, we cross the pastures of that name, and
skirt the Lac d'Anterne to (lV2l»'-) the * Col d'Anterne (7425 ft.), where a
magnificent survey of Mont Blanc suddenly breaks upon our sight. We
descend to the left (the path to the right leads in 21/2 hrs. to Servoz),
in view of the Aiguilles Rouges, into the valley of the Liosaz , which we
cross after li/o hr. by a wooden bridge (5530 ft.). We once more ascend,
to the (I1/2 hr. ) Col du Brevent (8075 ft.), which also commands a fine view
of Mont Blanc. Thence the descent leads chiefly through wood, via. Plan-
praz (Inn, dear ; to the Brevent, see p. 278) and Les Chablettes (restaurant),
to (2 hrs.) Chamonix.
From Sixt to Chamohix via the Biiet., 13-14 hrs., fatiguing but inter-
esting (guide necessary, 28 fr. incl. return). To the Chalets des Fonds, see
above. Thence the route leads to the left to the (21/2 hrs.) Col Lechaud
^70 IV.Ro}ite39. SALLANCHES. From Bellegarde
or des Foiids (7325 ft.), and ascends over loose stones and snow to the top
of the *Buet (10,200 ft.), which commands a magnificent view of the Mont
Blanc range, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn, the Bernese Alps with the Jung-
frau and the Finsteraarhorn, the Dent du Midi, and the Jura as far as
the mountains of Daiiphin^. A somewhat laborious descent leads down to
(2 hrs.) the Chalet de la Pierre a B^rard (6330 ft.; Inn), and through the
ValUe de Birard to Argentiere and (4 hrs.) Chamonix (p. 274).
The Chamonix road enters a narrow gorge, traversed by the Arve.
To the right, a new road ascends to Nancy-sur-Clnses. — Beyond
(53 M.) Balme (1625 ft.), in the bluish-yellow limestone precipice
to the left, 750 ft. above the road, is seen the entrance to the Grotte
de Balme, a stalacite-grotto hardly worth visiting (2 hrs. there and
back ; 3 fr. each pers.).
Near (54'/2M.) Magland is a spring by the road-side, on the left,
supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac, de Flaine
(4695 ft.) on the hill above. On the right, farther on, rise the Pointe
d'Areu (8095 ft.) and the Pointe Perce'e (9025 ft.; see below), and
on the left, the bold precipices of the Aiguille de Varetis (8165 ft.).
The conspicuous Cascade d' Arpe^iaz is Imposing after rain.
The valley expands. The road crosses the Arve , and leads
straight on through the broad valley , at first through wood , and
affording a continuous view of the Mont Blanc group.
61 M. Sallanches (1788 ft.; Hot. des Messageries ; Bellevue;
Mont Blanc), a somewhat dull little town. To Annecy and Albert-
ville, see p. 294.
The view of the Mont Blanc group is more extensive from the heights
surrounding Sallanches , and even from the Montague de St. Roch to the
W. — One of the best points of view is the Pointe Percfie (9025 ft.), as-
cended without difficulty from this side in about Sl/o hrs. The route
leads to the W., to tlie (3 hrs.) Alpe des Fours, beyond the waterfall of
the same name, on the arete between Sallanches and the basin of the
Reposoir. Thence we ascend to the N. for I1/4 hr. , descend for 5 min.,
and finally reach the top in 1 hr. more.
The road next leads via Domancy to (65V2 M.) Le Fayet
(1860 ft.; Hotel de la Paix; des Alpes , etc.) by the bridge over
the BonNant. — To Si.rt, via the De'sert de Plate', see p. 269.
St. Gervais-les-Bains (20G6 ft. ; *H6tel), a watering-place with sulphur-
springs, lies in the wooded ravine of Montjoie, l/o M. from the Chamoni.v
road, on the Bon-Nant ('Nant' being the name applied to all mountain-
streams in Savoy), which forms a waterfall at the back of the baths
(^Cascade dt Crrpui'). — A path leads in 20 min. from the baths to
St. Gervais-le-Village (2657 ft. ; * Hotel du Moni-Joli, *du Montblanc, de Genive,
"des Etrangers , and several pensions; Eng. Church service in summer),
on the road to Contamines (p. 283), a health-resort, admirably situated.
(The village is 2 M. from Le Fayet by the carriage-road.) — The Mont Joli
(8288 ft.) may be ascended witliout difficulty from this point in 5 hrs. The
descent may be made by St. Nicolas-de-Ve'roce (in all 8 hrs. ; comp. p. 283).
To Annecy or Albertville via Flumet, see p. 294.
Pedestrians mav quit the diligence at Le Favet and walk over the
Col de la Forclaz (5105 ft.), between the Tete-Noire' (.5800 ft. ; not to be con-
founded with the Tete-Noire between Chamoni.x and Martigny) and the
Prarion (0460 ft.), direct to Le Fotiilly and Les Ouches in 5-6 hrs. (guide de-
sirable, 6 fr.). A longer but more interesting route (6-7 hrs.) leads over
the Col de Voza (p. ISi).
The road ascends gradually, with the torrent almost immediately
to Chamonix. THONON. IT'. Route 39. 271
below it, passes through a cutting, and enters the wooded valley of
(69'/2 M.) Le Chdtelard (tavern). Through the opening of the valley
appear the Dome dii Gouter (p. 281) and the jagged Aiguille du
Midi (p. 279). Beyond the inn is a short tunnel ; the road then
returns to the Arve for a short distance.
A road diverges here to the left and crosses the Arve to (l/g M.) Ser-
voz (Hotel Fruger), whence we may visit (1 hr. , there and back) the
•Gorges de la Diosaz (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through which the DiosaZy
a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Easy access to the
gorge (rustic inn at the entrance) is afl'orded by a gallery, i/o M. long,
attached to the rocks. Visitors should penetrate as far as the Gorge de
Sou/jfet, the most imposing part, with a triple waterfall.
Tl^/aM. Les Montees is an inn by the Font Pe'lissier, over
which the old road from Servoz comes to join ours. About Va M-
farther on , the old road ascends to the right to Le Fouilly and
Les Ouches (p. 282) , while the new road traverses the wild ravine
of the Arve, crossing the stream by the *Pont de Marie (flue view
of the gorge) and again higher up. — 74 M. La Gria. The glaciers
now gradually become visible, but owing to the vastness of the
mountains in which they are framed it is impossible at first to
realise their extent. The first are the Glacier de la Gria and de
Taconaz; then the Glacier des Bossons (p. 278), near the village of
that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley, is apparently
the largest. A little above it the road crosses the Arve for the last
time by the Pont de Perralotaz, and 1 M. beyond it reaches —
77' 2 M. Chamani.r, see p. 274.
"b. Vii Annemasse, Le Bouveret, Martigny, and the Col de Balme.
To Martigny, 87 M.. Railway in 43/4-51/4 hrs. (fares 17 fr. .50, 12 fr.65,
9 fr. 30 c.). From Martigny to Chamonix, 9 hr.s. ; carriage-road from Mar-
tigny to Trient and from Le Tour to Chamonix. Carriage from Mar-
tigny to Trient for 1-3 persons, 30 fr. , 4 pers. , 40 fr. ; from Le Tour to
Chamonix, with 1 horse, 6 fr. , 2 horses 9- 10 fr. Luggage, see p. 287.
With the following description of the route a guide (12 fr.) may be dis-
pensed with. Horse or mule with attendant , 24 fr. The road is so bad
from the Col de Balme to Le Tour that it is better to walk. There are
several inns and chalets on the road where refreshments may be had.
To (24 M.) Annemasse, see p. 268. — 28 M. St. Cergues. —
33 M. Bons-St. Didier.
The ascent of the Voirons (4775 ft.; Hotels), is made hence in 21/0-
3 hrs., either on foot or by carriage (omnibus in summer). The panorama
from the summit is very fine, including Mont Blanc, the Lake of Geneva,
the Jura, etc.
At (36", M.) Perrignier the Lake of Geneva is approached on
the left.
43 M. Thonon (Hotel de Thonon; de I' Europe) is a town of
5447 inhab.. rising picturesquely from the lake, the ancient capi-
tal ofChablais and the residence of the Counts and Dukes of Savoy.
Beyond the town we cross the alluvial deposits of the Drance and
that river itself.
48', '2 M- Evian-les-Bains I *//()/«/ d'Evian: des Bains; *Fon-
272 IV. lioute 39. CIIAMPERY. From Geneva
bonne; de France: du Nord; des Voyageurs ; des Alpes; Vaudaux ;^
de laPaix; des Etrangers, etc.), with 3149 inhab., is well situated
on the Lake of Geneva. It possesses two cold mineral springs. The
Baths are in the middle of the town ; the Casino near the Lake.
— Steamboat to Geneva see p. 264. — 49 M. Bams d'Evian, nearer
the town.
52 M. Lugrin ; 55 M. Meillerie. The Geneva boats call at this
and the two following stations. — 59 M. St. Ghigolph (Hotel de la
Poste; Lion d'Or) , a village lying half in France and half in
Switzerland , the boundary being the Morge.
63 M. Le Bouveret (Hotel de la Tour) is at the upper end of
the Lake of Geneva, about '/4 hi'- from the point where the Rhone
enters it. For details see Baedeker's Switzerland. — 66 M. Youvry.
— 72 M. Monthey.
To the S. W. of Monthey opens the beautiful *Val d'Illiez, 15 M.
in length, watered hy the Yiize ^ in the upper part of which lies Cham-
piry {3385 ft.; * H6UI de la Dent-du-Midi ; * Croix - FhUr ale) , 81/2 M. from
Monthey (omnibus in summer daily in 31/4 hrs.). This is the starting-
point for excursions to the Roc d'Ayerne (Ihr.)-, to the *Culei (6450 ft.;
3 hrs.); to the *Dent du Midi (i.0,i50 ft.; 7-8 hrs.; fatiguing); to the Tour
Salliires (10,587 ft.; 9-10 hrs. ; difficult); to the Dents Blanches (9100 ft.;
6 hrs.) ; etc. For details , see Baedeker's Stcitzerland.
From Champery to Samoens via the Cols de Coux and db la GOLisE,
6i/2hrs. ; guide (13 fr.) unnecessary. At a (8/4 hr.) small Shrine we keep
to the left, and, passing several chalets, and looking back on the impos-
ing Bent du Midi , reach (2 hrs.) the Col de Coux (6310 ft ; Inn) , the
frontier of Switzerland and Savoy, which towards the W. overlooks the
valley of the Dranee. The saddle to the left is the Col de la Golese. In
descending, partly through wood, we avoid the paths leading to the right
to Morzine. On leaving the wood we see the continuation of the path
bearing to the left to the (I1/2 hr.) Col de la Golfese (5480 ft.). Beautiful
view of the side-valley in which Les Allamans lies^ and afterwards of the
valley of the Gifl're. Then (I3/4 hr.) Samoens (p. 268). A good road thence
to (41/2 M.) Sixt (p. 269).
From Champery to Sixt via the Col de Sagerou, 8-9 hrs., arduous,
only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la Dent du
Midi we descend by a narrow road leading towards the head of the
valley to a (20min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point where
two brooks unite to form the Fifee , we cross another bridge, and avoid
the patli to the left. After 10 miu. more we take the path to the left,
ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 niin. from the top of the ascent reach
the Chalets de Bnnaveau; thence we ascend gradually, skirting precipitous
rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas d'Encel, where a little climbing, facilitated
by iron rods attached to the rock , is necessary. In 1/4 hr. more the
path to the Dent du Midi diverges to the left. Our route ascends slowly
over the pastures of tlic Clusanfe Alp, on the left bank of the brook,
crosses the brook (I/2 l>i"), and then mounts a very steep and dizzy path
to the (1 hr.) Col de Sagerou (7917 ft.), a sharp arete descending abruptly
on both sides, between the (r.) Denis Blanches (see above) and (1.) Afoni
Jluan (10,100 ft.; 3 hrs. from the pass; repaying). We descend thence
to the (3/4 It.) chalets of Vogealle and (1/2 br.) Borce , and along a
steep rocky slope into the (i/o hr.) valley of the Gifre. In IV4 hr. we
reach Nant Bride, and in IV4 lii'- more Sixt (p. 269).
The railway beyond Champi^ry crosses the Vieze at Monthey,
and approaching the Rhone, joins the railway to Geneva via
Lausanne.
to Chamonix. MAHTIGNY. IV. noitte 3i). •273
TS'/a M. St. Maurice (1377 ft.; Buffet; Hotel (Irisoaoiio, at the
station; *Hot. des Alpes, etc.), a picturesque old town with narrow
streets, on a delta between the river and the clifl's, the Roman
Af/aunitm. is supposed to derive its name from St. Maurice, the com-
mander of the Thebau legion , who is said to have suffered martyr-
dom here with his companions in 302. — Beyond St. Maurice, on
the right, is the Chapelle de Ve'voiUey, with rude frescoes. Opposite,
on the right bank, are the Baths of Lavey.
Beyond (80 M.) Et-lonnaz railway and road skirt a projecting
rock close to the Hhone. On the right is the *Pissevache, a beautiful
cascade of the Snloiife , which here falls into the Rhone Valley
from a height of 230 ft. (•■'/4 M. from Vernayaz; best light in the
forenoon).
82'/2 M. Vernayaz (1535 ft. ; *G)'. -//o^ des Gorges dit Trient,
' oM. from the station, finely situated at the entrance of tlie Gorges,
1st class; *Hdt. des Alpes, etc.), the starting-point of the road to
Chamonix vid Salvan (p. 289). Carriage to Le Chatelard 25 fr. ; guide
(unnecessary). 6fr.
On the right, beyond Vernayaz, we observe the bare rocks at
the mouth of the *Gorges du Trient, which may be ascended for
',2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the
foaming stream. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Grand-Hotel.
The old chateau of La Batlaz (1985 ft.), formerly belonging to
the bishops of Sion , appears on a hill to the right, commanding a
tine view of the Rhone Valley. The train crosses the Drance.
87 M. Martigny ^1560 ft. ; *Hdtel Clevc ; *II6t. du Mont-Blanc,
rtc.) jircseuts an animated appearance in summer, being the starting-
point of the routes over the Tete- Noire and the Col de Balme to
Chamoni.x, over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta , and for the Val de
Bagnes.
Beyond Martigny we follow the Great St. Bernard road through
the long village of Mnitiyny-Bourg to the (1 Va M.) Dvance Bridge
(1640 ft.) , and (4 min.) reach the hamlet of La Croix. A notice
on a house here indicates the road to Chamonix, ascending to the
right, in numerous windings, which the rugged old path cuts
off. 20 min. Les liappes; 25 min. La Fontaine; 35 min. Sergnieux
(3820 ft.) ; V4 hr. Le Fay. The road here takes a wide bend to the
right, which the old path cuts off. By the (^/4 hr.) Chalet de
fiellerue we enjoy a fine retrospective survey of the Rhone Valley.
Then (20 min.) Les Chavans (Uest&UT.) , and an ascent of 40 min.
more to the Col de la Forclaz (4997 ft.; * Hotel. Gay- Descombes ;
p. 289), 31/2 hrs. from Martigny.
From the pass a ueuily level path, with a tramway for the ice-
tial'fic, leads to the (ihr.)" Glacier de Trient (lower end 5.560 It.), the
northernmost glacier of tlif Mont Blanc ranf^e tgood view from a point
about 1/0 hr.'s climb up the left side).
After a descent of '/4 hr. the bridle-path to the Col de Balme
iliverges to the left from the Tete-Noire road, and in 10 min. crosses
Baedeker. Southern France. IS
274 IT'. Route 39. COL DE BALME.
a bridge opposite the upper houses of Trient (p. 288). We now
ascend the meadows to the left (with the Glacier de Trient to the
left, see p. 289) and (20 min.) cross the Nant -Noir ("nant" , pro-
bably from natare , being the Savoyard word for a torrent) , which
descends from the Mont des Herbageres. We follow the right bank
for about 200 paces, and then mount to the left in steep zigzags
through the Forest of Magnin , which has been thinned by ava-
lanches. After 1 hr. the path becomes more level, passes (1/4 hr.)
a cantine and ('/4 hr.) the chalets of Herbageres, or Zerbaziere
(6660 ft.), and O/a hr.) reaches the *Col de Balme (7225 ft. ; Hotel
Suisse, tolerable), 6 hrs. from Martigny , the boundary between
Switzerland and France. This point commands a superb view of the
whole of the Mont Blanc range: the Aiguilles du Tour, d'Argentiere,
Terte , du Dru, de Charmoz, and du Midi, Mont Blanc itself, and
the Dome du Goiiter; far below stretches the valley of Chamonix as
far as the Col de Yoza. On the right are the Aiguilles Rouges, to the
left of them the Br^vent, and still farther to the right the snow-clad
Buet. In the opposite direction, beyond the Col de la Forclaz , we
survey the Valais and the mountains which separate it from the Ber-
nese Oberland, theGemmi, the Finsteraarhorn, Grimsel, and Furka.
A still finer *View is obtained from La Balme (7590 ft.), the second
eminence to the right, with a wooden cross, about 1/4 hr. N. W. of the
inn, at the foot of the Croix de Fer or Aiguille de Balme (7677ft.), the
last spur of the hills which rise abruptly above the Col de Balme. From
this point Mont Blanc looks still grander; to the X. E. we see the entire
chain of the Bernese Alps, rising like a vast white wall with countless
pinnacles ; and to the E. , at our feet , lies the Tete Noire ravine , with
the Dent du Midi rising beyond it. The descent may be begun immediately
from tliis point. The ascent of the Aiguille Itself is recommended to
good climbers (1 hr. , with guide).
The path, now rough and steep, descends over pastures carpeted
with Alpine flowers. On the right flows the Arve, which rises on
the Col de Balme. — lV4hr. Le Tof/r (4695 ft.); carriages, see p. 271.
To the left is the fine Glacier du Tour. — About V'j M beyond Tour
■we cross the Buisme. which drains the glacier, and (1 M.) the Arve,
and soon reach Aryentiere (p. 287). Continuation of the road to
Chamonix, see p. 287.
40. Chamonix and its Environs.
Hotels. *H6t. iMPERiAt. , "Hut. de Londres et d'Anqleteere , 'Hot.
Royal et de Savssure ; at these, R., L., & A. 4-5 fr. and upwards , B. H/2,
r>. 5fr. •, *H6t. dv Moktblanc, R., L., & A. 3i/o-5, D. 5 fr. ; *H6t. -Pens.
CouTTET, R., L. , & A. 31/0-4, D. 4 fr. ; *H6t. des Alpes, R., L., & A. 4,
D. 4, pens. 8-9 fr. — Unpretending; "HoTel Beai'-Site, in an open situation
at the S. end of the village , R. 2, D. 31/2 fr. ; 'Hot. de France. R. from 2,
B. 11/4, pens. 6-7 fr. ; •Hot. Scisse; "Hot. -Pens, de la Poste; *Hot. de la
Paix, well spoken of; •Croix Blanche, R. & L. 2, B. I1/4, D- 3 fr. ; Ba-
lances; Reunion dks Amis; de la Terrasse, with cafe.
Guides. A guide is unnecessary for the Montenvert, the Flfg'ere , the
Brivent, and the Pierre Pointue. The paths are so minutely described in the
following pages that they can hardly be mistaken , while opportunities
h f*'^ = ,J
i'
I 1" £ "^--^ y
3/'
CHA.MOMX. IV. Route iO. 275
of asking the way arc also frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need only
♦■ugage a guide fnr tlie passage of the Mer de Glace to or from the Chapeau
{p. 276). The following extract is from the ^Rkglement et Tarif des Guides
de C/tamoni.r' . Travellers are provided with guides by the Guide-Chef, who
is bound to employ each in turn, the traveller having no choice except in
these cases: (1) When a course extraordinaire is contemplated; (2) When
an excursion is made for scientific purposes; (3) When the traveller speaks
no French, and the guide is unacquainted with the language of the tra-
veller: (4) When travellers have previously employed a certain guide
and desire to re-engage the same; 5) When ladies travelling alone wish to
engage a particular guide : (6) When the traveller is a member of an Alpine
club. — The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses
Extraordinaires. A complete taritV may be had of the Guide -Chef. The
guides are bound on the 'courses ordinaires' to carry baggage not exceeding
24 lbs. ; on the 'courses extraordinaires', 14 lbs. only. — The following
are recommended for difficult expeditions : Franqois Simond : Mich. Charlet :
Jean Bapt. Croz ; Ed. and Aug.Cupelin ; Francois, Henri, a.nd Michel Devouasoud :
Jos. -Marie Balmat ; Jul.Bossonney ; Mich. Ducroz ; Fred., M., a^uAFlor. FoUiquei :
Aug. and Ale.r. Paccard ; Alph. , Michel, and Fred. Payot ; Ben. Simon; Michel,
Sim., and Tob. Tairraz ; A. Tournier ; Gasp, and Jules Simond.
Horses and Jfules. With the exception of the excursion to the Mon-
tenvert and Chapeau (9 fr.) , and to the Montenvert for the purpose of
visiting the Jardin, and back to Chamonix in the evening (8 fr.), the same
charges are made as for the 'courses ordinaires' of the guides, and as
much more is charged for the attendant.
The Collection of Pictures of M. Loppe, a well-known painter of Alpine
scenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montenvert,
is worth seiing. Admission gratis (fee to the servant).
English Church Service during the season [p. 276).
Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at
least to Chamonix, but those who have one day only at command should
ascend the Montenvert (p. 276) in the morning (21/2 hrs.), cross the Mer
DE Glace (p. 276) to the (IVo hr.) Chapeai' (p. 277), descend to (1 hr.) Les
Tines (p. 277), ascend the Fi.kgere (p. 277; 21/2 hrs.), and descend thence in
13/4 hr. to Chamonix. Early in tlie morning the path to the Montenvert
is in shade, in the afternoon that to the Flegere at least partly so; and
by this arrangement we reach the Flegere at the time when the light is
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a
guide (to be found on the Montenvert) is necessary for the Mer de Glace
only. Riders send their mules round from Montenvert to Les Tines or
the Chapeau to meet them. The excursion to the Flegere alone takes
5 hrs. , and that to the Montenvert or the Chapeau about the same time.
— Those who come from the E., and have spent the night a.i Argenti'ere,
should leave the road near Larancher (p. 2S7) and proceed by the Cha-
peau, the Mer de Glace, and Montenvert to Chamonix. The Fle'gere may
also be reached from La Joux (p. 287) , on the right bank of the Arve :
but the path is bad and uns\iitable for riding, and cannot be found
without a guide (boy l-l^/a fr.).
On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed,
the Glacier des Bossons (p. 278) is the best object for a walk (there and
back 3 hrs.). — To the Cascade de Blaitiere, on the hill-side to the E.
of Chamonix, l/..> hr. (hardly worth the ascent; adm. 1/2 fr.). — To the Pa-
villon de la Vierre-Pointue (p. 279) and back, 5-6 hrs. ; or, including
the Aiguille de la Tour and Pierre a rEchelle, a whole day. — To the
Jardis (p. 277) from the Montenvert (where the niglit is spent) and back,
7-8 hrs. (from Chamonix and back 11-12 hrs. ; guide necessary). — Ascent
of the Brevent (p. 278) and back, 7 hrs.; ascent or descent by the Fle'gere
2 hrs. more (in the latter ease guide desirable).
The ^Valley of Chamonix (3445 ft.: pop. about 4000), or Cha-
motiny , 12 M. long, V2M. wide, watered by the .4r»;e, runs from
T*i. E. to S.W., from the Col de Balme to Les Ouches. It is bounded
18*
276 IV. Route 40. I'llAMONIX. Monfenvert.
oil the S. E. by the Mont Blanc chain, with its huge ice-cataracts,
the Glacier du Tour, d'Argeutiere , des Bois (Mer de Glace) , and
des Bossons; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the
Bre'vent.
A Benedictine, priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the
beginning of the 12th cent., but the reputation of the inhabitants was for
a long period so bad that when St. Francis de Sales , Bishop of Geneva
(1602-22), visited the then pathless wikls on foot, this was considered an
act of the utmost temerity. The valley became better known in 1743.
when the celebrated traveller Pococke and a Mr. Wyndham visited and
explored it in all directions, and published their observations in the Mer-
cure Suisse. Curiosity and enterprise were further stimulated by the publi-
cations of the Genevese naturalists Saussure , de Luc , Bourrit , Pietet,
and others. Since that time Chamonix has become a great centre of at-
traction for travellers, and is now visited by upwards of 15,000 annually.
It is inferior to the Bernese Oberland in picturesqueness of scenery, but
superior in the grandeur of its glaciers, in which respect it has no rival
but Zermatt.
In front of tlie Hotel Royal rises the ^Saussure Monument, un-
veiled in August, 1887. on the centenary of Saussitre's ascent of Mont
Blanc (p. 280). Another small monument to the guide J. Balnuit.
who made the first ascent in 1786, stands in front of the church.
The *Montenvert, or Montanuert (6303 ft. ; 2V'2 ln's- ; guide un-
necessary) , an eminence on the E. side of the valley, is visited
for the sake of the view it affords of the vast 'sea of ice' which fills
the highest gorges of the Mont Blanc chain in three branches {Gla-
cier du Ge'ant or du Tactd , Glacier de Leschau.v , and Glacier de
Talefre) . and which descends into the valley in a huge stream of
ice, about 4V2 M. long and ".>-l'/4M. l)road, called the Mer de
Glace above the Montenvert and the (Hacier des Bois below it.
The bridle-path leads to the left by the Hotel Royal, passes the little
English church, and crosses the meadows (to the left of the cemetery-
wall) to the (''4 hr.) houses of Les Mouilles. We now ascend through
pine-wood to the right (again turning to tlie right after '^hr.), past
Hie(10min.) Chalets des Plana rds. to (40min.) LeCaillet (4880 ft.;
Itfmts.), a spring by the wayside. Farther on (12 miii.), a bridle-path
to the left descends to Les Bois (p. 287^. Our path ascends gradually
through wood to the (1 hr.) *Uotel du Montenvert (R., L., & .\. 4.
d4,j. 4, D. 5. pens. 9 fr.) . at the top of the hill, commanding the
*Mer de Glare and the mountains around it: opposite us rises the
hiige.4/(/«/7/e du Dm (12,517 ft.); beliind it. to the left, is the snow-
clad Aiguille Verte (13,540ft.) and lower down, the.l/i/. du Borluird
(8765 ft.); to the right the Aig. du .Moine (1 1,214 ft.); farther distant
are the Grandes Jorasses (13,800 ft.), the Mont Mallet (13,085 ft.),
;ind the .\ig. du Ge'ant (13,160 ft.); and immediately to our right
tower the .Aig. de Charmoz (11,295 ft.) and de Blaitihe (11.595 ft.).
From the Montenvert travellers usnally cross the Mer de Glace to
the (l'/4 hr.) Chapeau. opposite. A path descends the left lateral
moraine to ("4 hr.) the glacier (where guides are generally to be
found at the hut; woollen socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). The
Chapenu. CHAMONIX. IV. Routt 40. 277
passage of the glacier (15-20 min.: guide, unnecessary for the ex-
perienced. 2' 2 *'■• to the Chapeau 5 fr.) presents no difficult).
On the opposite side we ascend over loose stones and debris to tlie
\0 min.) top of the right lateral moraine, skirting which we tliiMi
descend by a narrow path along the ' Mauvais Pas', where the patli
is hewn in steps and flanked with iron rods attacheil to the rocks, to
the i40 min.) Chapeau.
The *Chapeau (5080 ft. : Ke.ttaur.). a projecting rock on the N.l-'.
side of the Glacier des Bois, at the base of the Aiguille da Bochard.
is considerably lower than the Montenvert. but commands an ex-
<'elleiit survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the Cha-
monix Valley. In the background Mont Mallet (13,085 ft.) and the
Aiquille du Ge'ant (13.160 ft.): to the rijrht the Aitjuilles de Chai-
iiwz (11.295 ft.). de Blaitih-e (11..595 ft.i". du P/a«' (12,050 ft.), and
du Midi (12,610 ft.K the Bosses du Dromadaire (14,950 ft.) ^ the
Dome du Goitter (14.210 ft.), and the Ai<;. du Goffer (11.7 iO ft.).
A bridle-path descends the moraine from the Chapeau , and
leads through pine-wood to (40 min.) the Hotel du Maxrais-Pas
'p.287'. Here it divides: to the riirht to (10 min.) Larancher , to
the left to (20 min.) Le$ Tiues (p. 287).
The *Jardin (9145 ft. ; guide necessary. 12 fr.) is a triangular rock rising
from the midst of the Glacier de Talkfre , and walled in by moraines.
Around a spring in tlie midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August.
From the Montenvert, where the night is passed, wc skirt the somewhat
dizzy rocks of Les Pontf to the right and ti-averse the moraine to the Angle;
here we take to the crevassed 3Ier de Glace, and ascend it for 21/2-3 hrs.
to the foot of the Siracs de Talefre. We now turn to the right, ascend
past the Pierre it Stranger, on the S. side of the Se'raes ('Vi-l br.: a
wooden hut halfway up), and cross the Talefre Glacier to the (25 min.)
.lardin. This excursion makes us acquainted with the grand icy wilds of
the Mont Blanc group: tliough somewhat fatiguing, it presents no difficulty
to good walkers, and is even undertaken by ladies. Provisions necessary.
— Another route is otl'ered by the Cliemin de Couverele, on the right bank
of the Sdracs de Talefre. thovigh it has been little used since the lowering
<if the level of tlie Mer de Olace has rendered it diflicult of access.
The Aiguille de Cbarmoz (11.295 ft.) is scaled (with guide) from the
Montenvert in oi/->hrs. or more, according as one or more of its five
peaks are climbed. We first reach (3 hrs.) a rocky platform at the foot
of a couloir above the Glacier des yantillons, to the S. of the Aiguille,
and thence ascend to the (2i/2 hrs.) X. peak by the E. side of the moun-
tain. About 2-3 lirs. are required to reach the fifth peak. The fourth
appears to be the highest.
The Aiguille du Dru (12,517 ft.), a difficult peak, adapted only to ex-
perienced mountaineers, is ascended from the Montenvert in about 12 hrs.
We climb a couloir exposed to falling stones; ascend a vertical 'cheminee'
160ft. high: traverse the couloir to the col by means of an insecure
ladder: cross another col with the precarious aid of a rope; and beyond
a narrow cornice and several difficult chemin^es, finally reach the top
by passing astride along rocks and a snow -arete, with precipices of
3000 ft. on either side.
The *F16g6re (5925 ft.: ascent from Chamonix 3. descent 2 hrs.),
to the N. of Chamonix, is a buttress of the Aiyuille de la Floria
(9690 ft.), one of the higliest peaks of the Aipuilles Houses. W'e fol-
low the Argentiere road to (1'.>^I-^ ^-'^'' Chahles (p. 287). The direct
'278 IV. Route 40. CHAMONIX. Brtvent.
footpath diverges to the left immediately on this side of the Arv©
bridge, leading in 12 min. through meadows (marshy at places) to
the foot of the mountain , where the ascent begins. [The bridle-
route, a few minutes longer, crosses the Arve to Les Praz, diverges
to the left at the last house (guide-post), crosses the Arve and is
joined by the path mentioned above.] We now ascend the stony
slope in long zigzags. After 35 min. we enter the wood to the
right, pass (35 min.) the Chalet des Praz (Rfrm.), and in 1 hr.
more reach the Croix de la Fle'gere (Inn, well spoken of, d^j. SVa,
pens. 5-6 fr.). The *View embraces the entire chain of Mont Blanc,
from the Col de Baime to beyond the Glacier des Bossons. Opposite
us lies the basin of the Glacier des Bois (Mer de (Jlace), enclosed
by sharply defined Aiguilles: to the left the Aig. du Dm and the
huge snow-clad Aig. Verte; to the right the Aiguilles de Charmoz,
de Blaitiere, da I'lan, and du Midi. The summit of Mont Blanc
is also distinctly seen, hut is less striking than the Lower peaks
owing to its greater distance. The jagged pinnacles of the Aiguilles
Rouges also present a singular appearance. Evening liglit is most
favourable.
From the Fle'gere tlii' l)ridle-path continues to (1 hr.) the Chalet de la
Floria, whence the Aiguille de la Floria (9690 ft.), atlording a raagni-
lieent view to the W. as far as the Lake of Geneva, may be ascended,
with guide , in 3 hrs. - The ascent of the BeWidkte (97.30 ft. ; 31/2 hrs.
from the chalet), the highest peak of the Aiguilles Rouges, is also inter-
esting but difficult. Splendid view.
The Brtvent may also be combined with the Fle'gere. The 'Route de
Planpraz', a well-defined path, diverges to the right from the Flegere
path, about 20 min. below the Croix de la Flegere. and follows the slope
of the mountain, in full view of the Mont Klanc chain, passing the
Chalets de Charlanoz halfway, to the (2 hrs.) Inn of Planpraz (sec below),
which is visible from the Flegere. Thence we ascend steeply to the left
for 11/4 hr., finally through a difficult chemine'e, with iron bars.
The *Br6vent (8275 ft.; guide and mule 10 fr. each; guide via the
Flegere and Planpraz, J2fr.), the S.W. prolongation of tlie Aiguillen
Rouges, affords a similar but finer view. While from the Flegere
the Mer de Glace and the Aiguille Verte are the chief features,
Mont Blanc is here revealed in all its grandeur; to the right of the
Buet and the Aiguilles Kougos we also see the Bernese Alps , and
to the S.W. the .Vlps of Dauphin^. The bridle-path (I'/j hrs.)
leads from Chamonix to the W., passing the hamlets of La Mold
m\(i Les Mossuns, and ascends tlirough wood to (IVa I'l'-) Plan-
Sachat (4833 ft. ; Inn), an admirable point of view; and then in
numerous zigzags to the (IV4 hr.) Plan Bel-Arhat (6975 ft. ; Restau-
rant with beds, dear), on a saddle to the S.W. of the summit. Thenco
to the top, passing the .sombre little Jmc. du Brevent, 1 V4 l»i- more.
- The ascent may also be made via Planpraz (see above), 3 hrs.
from Chamoiiix.
To tlie *Glacier des Bossons, an inteiestiiig walk (3 iirs. there
and back; guide necessary for crossing the glacier, from Cliamonix
6, from the chalet on the left side of the glacier 2fr. ; woollen
Pierre-Poinfue. CHAMONIX. IV. Boute 40. 119
socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). On the left bank of the Arve we
pass the hamlets of Le Praz-Conduit, Les Baiafs, and (by the upper
path, to the left) Les Tsours; here we turn to the left, ascend through
wood on the right bank of the brook to the (25 min.) Cascade du
Dard (Inn), a line double fall, and then cross the broad stony
bed of the Xant des Pelerins. (After 5 min. the path to the Pierre
Pointue diverges to the left; see below.) Beyond two more brooks
we reach the ('/'.^ hr.) high moraine of the Glacier des Bossons , and
cross the glacier in about '/4 hr. to the Pavilion Fonciere (Inn)
on the left moraine. Fine view of the huge glacier, which has be-
gun to advance of late, overshadowed by the Mont Blanc du Tacul
(13,943 ft.). On the left rise the Aiguilles du Midi (12,610 ft.) and de
Blailiere (11,595 ft.). A visit to the grotto hewn in the glacier, 85 yds.
long, is interesting (adm. and lights 1 fr.). We descend by Les
Bossons to the Pont de Perralotaz (p. 271), and return to Chamonix
by the high-road on tlie right bank of the Arve.
The *Pavillon de la Pierre-Pointue (6722 ft.) is another favour-
ite point (bridle-path, 2'/2-3hrs. ; horse 8 fr.; guide unnecessary).
Beyond the bridge across the Nant des Pelerins ('/2 hr. ; see above)
we diverge to the left and ascend in zigzags on the side of a wild val-
ley, through which the Sanf. Blanc dashes over rocks, to the (1 hr.)
Chalet de la Para (5265 ft.). Then through wood and pastures to the
(1 hr.) Pavilion de la Pierre-Pointue (Restaurant, d^j. S'/zfr-), on
the brink of the huge Glacier des Bossons, with its beautiful ice-
fall. Opposite, apparently quite near, rise Mont Blanc, the Dome
du Goiiter, the Aiguille du Goiiter, etc.; and there is also a superb
view to the N. and W.
An interesting point is the Aiguille de la Tour (7650 ft.), wLieh com-
mands the best survey of the Glacier des Bossons (I hr., guide desirable;
ascend to the left by the pavilion). — The Pierre a I'Echelle (7910 ft.) is
another fine point (IV4 hr. ; guide advisable). The narrow path (route
to Mont Blanc, see below) leads by the pavilion to the right, round an
angle of rock, and ascends to the brink of the Glacier des Bossons (wliere
falling stones are sometimes dangerous). Admirable view of the riven ice-
masses of the glacier; above them the Aiguille du Gouter, the Dome du
Goiiter, the Bosses du Dromadaire, and the highest peak of Mont Blanc;
in the foreground are the Grands- Mvlets (see p. 281), 21/2 hrs. distant
(guide necessary). — A pleasant way back from the Pierre-Pointue is by
the Plan de I'Aiguille (I1/2 hr. ; no defined path, guide advisable), over
grassy slopes and tlie moraine of the Glacier des Pelerins. We then ascend
a little to the Plan de r Aiguille, or La Tapiaz (7487ft.), lying at the foot
of the pinnacles of the Aiguille du Plan (12,053 ft.) and the Aiguille du Midi
(see below). Superb view of the valley of Chamonix, with the Bernese
Oberland and Dauphine' Mts. in the distance at either side. We descend by
the C/ialets-sur-le-Iiocher to Tsours and (2 hrs.) Chamonix. — To the Aiguille
du Hidi (12,610ft.), passing the Pierre h V Echelle (see above), a difficult
ascent (8V2 Its., with guide). The path at first leads up some almost
vertical rocks to the glacier on this peak, then traverses a ridge of ice,
a crest, and a rocky slope on the side towards the tirands-Mulets, passes
the Col du Midi (Gi/a ''". ; 11,810 ft.), and the snowy ridge on the side next
Chamonix , whence the gigantic wall that reaches to the .summit may be
scaled without much difficulty. Splendid "View, even grander than that
from the Buet. — In order to avoid the steep slopes towards the Glacier
des Bossons, we may also ascend by the Mer de Glace and the Glacier du
280 IV. Route 40. COL DU GEANT.
Uiant, which route presents no great difficulty except the final steep climt>.
By the second path we may descend in 9hrs. to Chamonix.
From Chamonix TO THE I3iET (Sixt)^ 9-10 hrs., with guide, a laborious
but interesting ascent (23 fr. returning on the same day, 28 fr. for two
days). Via (6M.) Argentiire to the (3 31.) entrance of the ValUe de Bh-ard,
by the Tetc-Noire road, see p. 288 (driving thus far preferable). Ascend-
ing the picturesque valley to the left, we reach in 3 hrs. the Chdlet de la
Pierre a Berard, where it is advisable to spend the night. Hence to the
summit, a fatiguing walk of Sl/nhrs., alternately over debris and over
snow. Descent to (4 hrs.) Sixt, see p. 270.
From Chamonix to Sixt via the Col dii Brfvent and the Col d'Anterne,
see p. 269; to the Argenti'ere Glacier, see p. 287.
From Chamonix to Courmayeur via the Col du Geakt, 15-16 hrs.,
a trying glacier- pass , but most interesting, and not difficult for adept. s
(guide 50, porter 30 fr.). After a night at the Hotel du Montenvert (p. 276)
we traverse the upper part of the Mer de Glace and the Glacier du Tacut,
or du G^ant, the jagged 'seracs' of which must sometimes be mounted by
ladders. On the right we pass the .Vont Blanc du Tacul (13.943 ft.), and oil
the left the Aiguille or Bent du Grant (13,160ft. ; first ascended bv the bro-
thers Sella in 1882), and in about 6 hrs. reach the Col du G^ant (11,030 ft.),
between the Flambeaux (11,700 ft.) on the right and the Aiguilles Marbries
(11,605 ft.) on the left, with two refuge-huts and splendid view. We then
descend almost perpendicular rocks on the S. side to the Pavilion du
/Vwiiier (p . 286) and Courmayeur. — Other Passes over the Mont Bi.anc
Range from Cliamoni.K to Courmayeur (all verv diftieult, and for thorough
adepts only) : the Col de Triolet (12,160 ft.) and the Col de TaUfre (11,730 ft.),
both at the head (E. end) of the Glacier de Tali/re, between the Aig. de
Triolet And the Aig. de TaUfre; the Col de Pierre-Joseph (11.415 ft.), to the
S. of the Aig. de Tale/re; the Col des Hirondelles (11420 ft.), between the
Petites and the Grandes Jorasse.'': the Col de Miage (li,165ft.), to the S. of
the Aig. de Bionnaisay (13,150 ft.); 2 hrs. below the Col, at the foot of the
Aiguille Grise, a refuge -hut of the Italian Alpine Club (9840 11.): and the
Col de Trelatete (p. 283).
From Chamokix to Orsieres via the Col d'Argentiere (11,550 ft.), about
20 hrs., very difficult. The ascent is from the Parillon de Lognan (Inn I
over the Argentiere Glacier (p. 287) to the summit of the pass, to the S.
of the Tour iVo(ye(12,545 ft.), whence a magnificent view is obtained. The
dangerous descent leads across the Glacier de la Neura into the Val Ferret,
to the N. of Courmayeur (see Baedeker's Switzerland). — The following
passes are less difficult, but still, however, only adapted for thoroughly
expert mountaineers: Col du Cbarionnet (10,978ft.), between the Aiguille
d'Argentih'e and the Aiguille dti Cliardonnet ; descent over the Glacier de Sa-
leinaz to Praz-de-Fort, 21 '2 hrs. from Orsieres.— Col du Tour (10,990ft.),
11 -12 hrs. from the Ciil de Balme to Orsieres; difficult ascent over the
Glacier du Tour to the summit of the pass to the S. of the Aiguille du Tour
(11,585ft.; easy); descent liy the Glacier de Trient and the Glacier d'Orny
to the Cabane d'Orny (8835ft.), and by the Cotnbe d'Orny to Som-la-Proz
and to Orsieres, on the Grand St. Bernard route (diligence service from
Martigny, p. 273: see Baedeker's .Switzerland).
41. Mont Blanc.
Mont Blanc (15,730 ft.) , the monarcli of the ,\Ips (Monte Ro.sa
15,365ft.; Fiiisteiaarhorii 14,025 ft., Ortler 12800ft.), but not the
highest mountain in Europe if the Caucasus, with Mount Elbruz
(18,525ft.), be included in the continent, has .since 1860 formed
the boundary between France and Italy. It is composed chiefly of
Alpine granite or protogine. It was ascended for the first time in
1786 by the guide Jacques Balmat, and by Dr. Paccard the same
MONT BLANC. IV. Ituute. 41. 281
year. In 1787 the ascent was made by the naturalist 11. B. de Saussure
(p. 276) with eighteen guides, and described by him with his valuable
scientific observations. In 1825 it was accomplished by Dr. E. Clarke
and Captain Sherwill. and in 1827 by Mr. Auldjo. In summer the
ascent is now made almost daily , but travellers are cautioned
against attempting it in foggy or stormy weather, as fatal accident^
liave not unfrequently occurred on this mountain. The view from the
summit is unsatisfactory. Owing to their great distance, all objects
appear indistinct; even in the clearest weather the outlines only of
the great chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and the Apennines,
are distinguishable.
I. Ascent of Mont Blanc.
Accorcliug to the regulations laid down liy the authorities of Cliamo
ni.x, one traveller ascending Jlont Klanc requires two guides (100 fr. each)
and one porter (50 fr.), each additional member of the party one guide
more; but for experienced mountaineers one guide and one porter suffice.
When the 'hotel bill' on the Grands- M\ilet.s and other items are added,
the minimum cost of the ascent usually comes to 220-250 fr. for one person.
From Chamonix the ascent usually takes three days. On the first
day travellers tisually ascend by the V<ti}Uon de la Pierre-Pointve
(p. 279) to the (7 hrs.) Grands Mulcts (10.005 ft. ; Inn with 4 rooms ;
bed, L., & A. 12. lunch 3. D. 6, Vin ordinaire 4'/2fr.) ; on the second
they proceed by the Petit - Pldtean to the (3 hrs.) (frand- Plateau
(12,900 ft.), and. bearing to the right (the usual route), ascend by the
Dome du Gouter and the Bos.ies dii Dioniadaiie. where the Cabanc
Vallot (about 14.400 ft.; 9 beds) was erected in 1890, or to the
left by the Curridor . tlie .Mm- dc la Cute, and the Petits-Mulets
(15,310 ft.') to the summit in 3-4 hours. They descend the same day
to the Grands-Mulets. and on the third day regain Chamonix (or the
whole descent may be made on tlni second day).
P'rom St. Gerv.\is (p. 270) the ascent is made by the Col de
Voza (p. 282), to the (8- 10 hrs.) Cabane (12.530 ft.; spend night).
on the S. side of the Aianille dn Gouter (12,710 ft.); thence by the
Dome du Gonter and the Bosses (see above) in 5-6 hrs. to the top.
From CounMAYEUR (p. 285) 16 hrs. : to the Varillon dit Fruitier 21/;.,
i'ol (III Giant 31/-2-4 brs. ; thence over the Glacier du Giant and through the
ValUe Blanche in 21/2 hrs- to the Cabane du Tacul (ll,(j93 ft.) , at the S.
base of the Aiguille du Midi (12,610 ft.), where the night is spent. Lastly
a toilsome ascent of 7-8 hrs. on the ice-slopes i)i Mont Blanc du Tacul and
Mont Mandit to the Corridor and tlie summit. - Another route (difficult)
leads from the Combxl Lake (p. 285) across the Glacier de Miage and by
the Cabane de V Aiguille Grise (10,705 ft.), to the (8-9 hrs.) Rifugio Quintino
Sella (about 11,975 ft.) on the Rocher du Mont Blanc, whence the top is
attained in 7-8 hrs. — The ascent over the Glacier du Brouillard is very
difflcult and hazardous. — A most interesting excursion, free from danger,
is the ascent of the Dome du Goiiter (14,210 ft.; see above), 4-41/2 hrs. from
the Grands Wulets; guide from Chamonix 60 fr.
II. The Tour of Mont Blanc.
The Tvvti OP 3I0NT I!r,.\NC is an easy and interesting expedition. The
paths are good, with the exception of a short distance on the Col des
'282 IV. Route 41. COL DE VOZA. Tour of
Fours, where the bridle-track ends. We command line views from the Col
<le Voza, the Col du Bonhomme, the Pointe des Fours, and the Col de la
.Seigne, while the environs of Courmayeur are amongst the most beautiful
spots in the Alps. To complete the circuit of Mont Blanc we may reach
ilartigny via the Col de Ferret (p. 286) or the Great St. Bernard, and re-
turn to Chamoni.x via the Col de Balme (p. 274), the Tete-Koire, or Fin-
haut and Salvan (R. 42).
Beidle Path. Three days: 1st, to Contamines 61/4 hrs. (or to Nant-
Borant, best night quarters, 73/4 hrs.)-, 2nd, to Mottets from Nant-Bo-
rant, 51/2 hrs. via the Col des Fours, or 6V2 hrs. via Chapicux; 3rd, to
Courmayeur 81/2 hrs. Good walkers may reach Courmayeur from Nant-
Borant in one day. The journey may also be easily accomplished in
two days by spending the night at Balme (p. 283) : from Chamonix to
Balme 9 hrs. , from Balme to Courmayeur II1/4 hrs. Or, omitting the Col
de Voza, we may drive from Chamonix to Contamines or to Notre-
l)ame-de-la-Gorge , in which case Mottets is easily reached on the first
day and Courmayeur on the second. — Guide (not needed by good walk-
ers in fine weather, but advisable for others, especially over the Col des
Fours) from Chamoni.x to Courmayeur in two days 20, in three days 24 fr. ;
return-fee 16 fr. extra. A passport is desirable on this excursion.
We follow the Geneva road (p. 271) from Clianionix to (S'/, M.)
the hamlet of La Gria, turn to the left at a large iron cross, and
cross the deep hed of the I^ant de la Gria to (^4 M.) Les Ouches
(Hot. du Glacier, plain), with a picturesquely situated church. A
few paces beyond the church , and on the other side of the brook
(guide-post), a tolerable footpath (hardly to be mistaken) diverges
to the left, enters the ('/jhr.) wooded ravine to the right, and ascends
in 2'/2 hrs. to the Pavilion de Bellevue (5947ft.) , a rustic inn on
a saddle of Mont Lachat (see below) , affording a superb *View
(best by evening-light) of the Chamonix Valley as far as the Col de
Balme, the Mont Blanc range (summit hidden ^by the Dome du
Goiiter), and the valley of the Arve.
Another path (easier at first, but disagreeable after rain) diverges by
a cross 8 min. beyond Les Ouches, and ascends in 2 hrs. to the Col de
Voza (5495ft.; Inn closed; simple refreshments in the chalet), a depression
between Mont Lachat (6926 ft.) and the Prarion (p. 270) , 20 min. to the W.
of the Pavilion de Bellevue, with a fine view, but inferior to that from
the Bellevue. We may descend either on the right bank of the stream
l»y Bionnassay to Contamines, or by a better and shorter route skirt the
j^lopes to the left to the undermentioned bridge over the Bionnassay brook,
where we join the route from the Pavilion de Bellevue, and thence des-
cend along the left bank.
From the Pavilion de Bellevue the path descends to the S. over
pastures (the Aiguille de Bionnassay, If], 360 ft., rising on the left)
and crosses the stream issuing from the Glacier de Bionnassay below
the chalets near the end of the glacier. Now a tolerable bridle-path,
it descends on the left side of the valley to (I'^hr.) Champel and
turns to the left by the fountain. We now descend rapidly, enjoy-
ing a lin(! view of the wooded aii<l well-culti\ated Montjoie Valley,
bounded on the W. by the slopes of Mont Joli (see below), with the
Mont Jioi'elette (8825 ft.) in the background, while to the V... above
the green lower hills, peep several of the W. snow-peaks of the Mont
Blanc group (.I/;/, du Tricot, de Trelatete, etc.). At (18 min.) /.'/
Viilette the path leads to the right by the fountain, and then (6 min.)
Mont Blanc. CO.NTAMINES. IV. Route 41. 283
joins the carriage-road from St. Gervais (p. 270) , which we follow
to the left. The road soon crosses the brook descending from the
Glacier de Miage. To the right , on the slope of Mont Joli, stands
the church of St. Nicolas-de-Ve'roce. The road then leads high ou
the right bank of the Bon-Nant to Cluunpelet and (1 hr.) —
Les Conta,mine8-sur-$t-Gervais (3927 ft.; Hotel du Bonhomme :
Uuion) , a large village with a handsome church.
The *Mont Joli (8290 ft.) is ascended from St. Xicolas (see above) without
ilifficulty in 3 hrs. (guide 6 fr. •, Inn 3/^ hr. from the top). Splendid
view of Mont Blanc. Ascent from Megeve, see p. 294. — The Pavilion de
Trelatete (see below) is more easily reached from C'ontamines than from
Xant-Borant (path ascending to the left, 20 min. above Contamines).
From Contamines by the Pavilion de Trelatete to Xant-Borant, 3 hrs.,
interesting. — From Contamines over the Col Joli to Btaufort, see p. 298.
Beyond Contamines tlie road descends to the hamlet of Pontef,
and overlooks the valley as far as the peaks of the Bonhomme. The
valley contracts. At ("4 hr.) the bridge which crosses to the pilgrim-
age-chapel of Not re- Datne-de-la- Gorge the road ends.
The bridle-path now ascends to the left, passing a bridge and
frequent traces of glacier-friction. Then through wood, past two
waterfalls, and acro.^s the (','2 hr.) deep gorge of the Bon-Nant, to the
(10 min.) Chalets 0/ Nant-Borant (4780 ft. ;' *]nn, R. 3, D. 2' '2-3 fr.).
We cross the wooden bridge to the left, and traverse the pastures
by a somewhat stony path. On the left the Glacier de Trelatete and
the Col de Be'ranger are visible; looking back, we survey the valley
as far as the Aiguilles de Yarens (p. 270).
From Nant-Borant, or better from Contamines (see above), we may
reach Jlottets or the Col de la Seigne in 7 hrs. via the Col du Kont
Tondu, or Col du Glacier (9205 ft.), trying, but witliout danger (guide 30 fr.).
From Nant-Borant we ascend to tlie left (fine waterfalls) to the (I1/2 hr.)
Paiillon (le Trelatete (6485 ft.; Inn), which overlooks the Trelatete Glacier,
and mount the glacier towards the S.E. to the pass, to the left oi Mt.
Tondu (beautiful view, especially from a height on the left). We may
either descend to the right to ^fottets (p. 284). or to the left over shelving
rocks and across tlie Glacier dea Lancettes or des Glaciers to the Col de
la Seigne (p. 284). — Over the Col de Trelatete (11.425 ft)., immediately
8. of the Aiguille de Trelatete, to tlie Glacier de V AlUe-Blanche and the
Combal Lake (p. 285), very difficult (2 guides, 60 fr. each).
We next reach (50 min.) the Chalet k laBalme i,oG25ft.). a poor
inn. beautifully situated at the head of the Montjoie Valley.
In doubtful weather, a guide should be taken from this point to the
summit of the pass (3fr.); but, as guides are nut always to be had
here, it is safer to engage one at Contamines (to the Col du Bonhomme
6-8, Col des Fours 6-8, Chapieux 8-10, Jlottets 10-12 fr.. higher fees being
charged when the guide cannot return the same day). If the guide be
taken to the Col du Bonhomme only, his attendance should be required
as far as the highest point (Croi.x du Bonhomme, see below). Mule from
Nant-Borant to the Croix 5 fr.
The path, indicated by stakes, ascends wild, stony slopes, passing
a waterfall on the left, to the (20 min.) Plan Jovet (6435 ft.), with a
few huts.
Besides the route over the Col des Fours (see below), a shorter, but
more difficult route leads to Jlottets via the Col d" Enclaves (8810 ft.),
284 I v. Route ih COL DE LA SEIGNE. Tour of
(8810 ft.), between Mont Tondu and the Tete dEnelaves (4 Iirs. from Nant-
Borant to Mottets).
On the ("., hr.) Plan des Dames (6543 ft.) rises a conical heap of
stones, where a lady is said to have perished in a snow-storm.
At the end of the valley (20min.) the path ascends the slope to the
right, and (25min.) reaches the Col duBonhomme (7680 ft.). On the
other side of this saddle we look down into the desolate valley
of the Gitte.
A path, at first ill-defined, descends into this basin, passes the lonely
Chalet de la Sance, turns to the left and crosses the brook, and leads to
(2hrs.) the chalets of la Oiitaz and to Beaufort (p. 298) in 3i/a hrs. more.
This is a convenient route to the Tarentaise , but uninteresting. Guide
to La Gittaz advisable.
Two curious rocks, the Eochers du Bonhomme and de la Bonne-
femme, here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. Beyond these we
follow the rocky slope to the left (path indicated hy stakes), past a
good spring (where a halt is usually made), and tinally ascend to
(40min.) the Croix du Bouhomine (8153 ft.) , where a splendid view
of the Tarentaise Alps is obtained, with the fine snow-pyramid of
Mont Pourri (12,430 ft.) rising in the centre. The route here divides.
In a straight direction the path descends, partly over loose stones.
to(lV4lir.) "
Les Chapieux or Chaplu (4950 ft. ; Suleil, well spoken of; Huf.
des Voyni/eurs) , an Alpine hamlet in the Val des Olaciers , 1^4 hi"-
below Mottets (see below).
From Chapieu.x to Boiro-St. Maurice (Tarentaise), 3 hrs. The path,
at first very stony, but afterwards better, passes the chalets of Le Grey
and Bonjieral, commanding a beautiful view of the upper Isere Valley
(Tarentaise). and at length unites with the hish-road. Bourg-St. Maurice
see p. 301.
The direct route to Mottets (2^/0 hrs.) ascends from the Croix du
Bonhomme to the left, across snow (guide advisable for less ex-
perienced travellers) to the (35 miii.) Col des Fours (8892 ft.), to
the right of which rises the Poinie des Fours (20niiu.). a splendiil
point of view, marked by a stone pyramid. Then a steep and rough
descent over snow and dirty slate- detritus , and over pastures by a
bad path to (1 V4 lir.) a group of chalets (6570 ft.) and the (20 min.i
huts of Les Glaciers, where the path from Chapiu comes up from
the right. We descend to the left, cross the bridge (5840 ft.), and
ascend the left bank to (20 min.) the two houses of —
Mottets (6225 ft. ; Mine. Fort's Inn, mediocre and dear; mule to
the Col de la Seigne. 6 fr.), at the head of the Val des Glaciers. To the
IS. rises the Aitjuilte du Glacier {Vl.fSIO ft), with the extensive Gla-
cier des Glaciers.
\ liridli-path . generally good . ascends hence in zigzags to the
(13/^hr.)*Colde la Seigne (8240 ft.), where a cross marks the frontier
between France and Italy. Magnificent view of the *A116e Blanche,
an Alpine \alley several miles long, bounded on the N. W. by the
tremendous precipices of the Mont Blanc chain.
To the left of the pass rise the Airj. du Glacier (12.520 ft.) and M'j. de
Mvnt BUinc. COUUMAYEUU. I V. Route 41. 285
Trelatete (12,900 ft.), then beyond the depression of the Miage Glacier, the
imposing snowy dome of Mont Blain\ borne by the huge buttresses of the
liocher du Mont Slanc, adjoined by the MonlMaudii ; farther on towers
the bold and isolated Aig. Blanche de' Peteret ( 13,490 ft. ), ascended for the first
time in 1885, by Mr. H. Seymour King. Of the more distant peaks the
Aig. dti Grant and the Oran'des Jorasses are conspicuous; and beyond the
Col de Ferret rise the peaks of the Great St. Bernard, beyond which appear
the snowy Mt. Velan, Grand Combin, etc. In the valley lies the green Lac
de C'ombal. The retrospective view of the Tarentaise Mts. is also line,
but it cannot compete with the imposing scene Just described.
Beyond the pass the path descends over snow and debris, keep-
ing to the left, then across pastures, to the ('/ohr.) upper Chalets
de I'AUe'e Blanche (7230 ft. ; occupied for a few weeks in the height
of summer only>. and the (25 min.) lower chalets (7135 ft.), at the end
of a level plateau. Good path from this point. AVe round the hill to
the right, cross the brook, and descend, enjoying a splendid view of
the imposing Glacier de I'AUe'e Blanche and tlie Aiguille de Tre'la-
fete. to a second level reach of the valley (formerly the bed of a lake),
at the end of which (^/.jhr.) lies the green Lac de Combal (6363 ft.),
bounded on the N. by the huge moraine of the Glacier de Miage.
Near a sluice at the lower end of the lake (10 min.) we cross the
Doire , which issues from the lake, and descend the side of the
moraine through a wild ravine, tilled with boulders. (The Glacier
de Miage , at the head of which lead and silver mines are worked,
is not visible.) After •* 4hr. the Doire is again crossed. The valley,
now called \'(d Veni. expands. "\Vo pass (5min.) the Cantine de
la Visaille (5420 ft.). with a line view down the valley, with the Jo-
rasses and the tooth-like Dent du Geaiit towering on the left.
The path descends through wood and pastures, passing ^■"4hr.)
the Chalet de I'urtud (left bank). On the left is the tine Glacier
de la Brenca, which once filled the whole valley, but has receded
greatly within the last few decades. 20 min. Chalet de yotre-Dame-
de-Gve'rison; a little farther, beyond the wood , which has suffered
from avalanches, on the left is the Aiguille de P^teret with the snowy
summit of iMont Blanc towering above it; on the right the Pavilion
du Fruitier (p. 286). Beyond the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Gue'rison
(4710 ft.), a few minutes farther, the path rounds an angle of rock,
overlooking the village of Etifrires to the left, at the mouth of the TVjf
Ferret (p. 286't . and then descends to the Doire, which unites here
with the Doire du Val Ferret and takes the name of Dora Baliea.
Opposite the little sulphur-baths of La Saxe C/jhr.), we cross the
Dora, pass the ("4hr.) Hotel du Mont Blanc (see below) . and in
10 mill, more reach —
Courmayeur. — *H6rEL Royal, "Akgelo, in both R. , L. , Si A. 4,
dej. 3i/..>. H. U ... 1). Ofr. ; *L'nion; ♦Mokt Bh.Ksc, l/i M- to the N. of the
village, IJ. ic A. 21/2. D., incl. wine, 4 fr. Diligence to Aosta 3 times
daily in .4 hrs.: one-lior.'se carriage to Aosta 15, two -horse 25 fr. (return
vehicles cheaper). .\s at Clianioni.x, there is a society of guides here with
similar regulations (see p. 274). Jy. and /. Proment, J. M. Lanier, Ser.
Henry, J. Gadin, Al. Berthod , J. M. liron , P. and A. Puchoz, and lim. and
J. M. lieij, are recommended.
286 IV. Route 41. LITTLE ST. BERNARD.
Conrmayeur (3965 ft.), ItaL Cormaggiore. a considerable village,
■with mineral springs , beautifully situated at the head of the Aosta
Valley, is much frequented by Italians in summer. Though higher
than Chamonix. the climate is warmer and the vegetation far richer.
The highest peak of Mont Blanc is concealed from Courmayeur by
the Mont CA(!<«/ (7685 ft.), but is seen from the Pre-St. Didier road, Va M-
to the S.
The*Moiitde Saze (7735 ft.: 21/2-3 hrs.; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary) affords
a complete view of the S.E. side of Mont Blanc with its numerous gla-
ciers, from the Col de la Seigne to the Col Ferret, the Col du Geant and
the Jorasses being prominent. A good bridle-path ascends from Cour-
mayeur, via La Saxe (p. 285) and Le Villair, to the Chalets du Pri (6670 ft.)
and the (1 hr.) nearer summit. The descent may be made via the Chalets
de Leuchi into the Val Ferret.
The *Grammont or Crammont (9080 ft. ; 4hrs. ; guide 6 fr.) is the finest
point of view in the neighbourhood of Courmayeur. The direct route is
very steep in places, and only to be recommended to experienced clim-
bers. The ascent may be made more conveniently from Pri-St. Didier (see
below), by a bridle-path diverging to the right from the St. Bernard road
(I/2 hr. from Pre-St. Didier), leading in 3-31/2 hrs. to the Pavilion Saussure,
a, refuge-hut of the I. A. C, 1/2 hr. below the top.
To Chamonix via the Col du Geakt (comp. p. 280), 14 hrs. (guide 50,
porter 30 fr. ; two guides, or a guide and a porter required). Interesting
excursion to the (21/2 hrs.) Pavilion du Fruitier, or du Afont Blanc (Restau-
rant: fine view) on the Mont Friiy (7125 ft.); thence to the Col du Oiant
(ll.OoOft.: two refuge -hutst, with a magnificent view, a steep ascent of
31/.2 hrs. (guide to the Pavilion 6 fr., unnecessary; to the pass and back 12,
in two days 14 fr.). — Ascent of Mont Blanc, see p. 281.
To Martignt via the Col Febret (8325ft.), 14 hrs., fatiguing and
somewhat uninteresting. This is the shortest route to Switzerland (see
Baedeker's Stcitzerland).
To Boukg-St. Maurice via the Little St. Bernard , 9 hrs.; carriage-
road (mule 15 fr. , 8 fr. to the hospice). The road descends in winding.s
to the Doire and enters a wooded gorge on its left bank. Pedestrians
■will find the old road preferable on account of the view; it keeps along
the height to the left, and joins the other road beyond Pre -St. Didier.
At (50min. from Courmaveur) PaUsieux we cross to the right bank to
(i/4hr.) Pr6-St. Didier (3280 ft.; *H6tel de V i'nirers), a village with baths.
■We now diverge to the right from tlie road to Aosta, which continues
to follow the vallev of the Doire. The new road ascends to the S.W. in
the valley of the Thuile to La Thuile (4725 ft.; Hot. du Glacier du Rutor.
inditTerent), where we have a view of the great glacier of the Rutor
(11.435 ft.), which may be ascended hence. Then it pa.'ises (II/4 hr.)
Pont-Serrant (.5415 ft.) ,' and the Cantine des F.aur-Rouges (6740 ft.), to the
(3/4 hr.) pas.t of the Little St. Bernard (7175 ft.). The boundary between
France and Italy is on the S. side, about V4 I'r. beyond the summit, and
near a Hospice (7060 ft.) atl'ording good accommodation. [The Mt. Valaisan
(94.55 ft.), 2 hrs. to the S.E., the Mt. BeUM'ere (8665 ft.), II/2 hr. to the E..
and the Lancebranlette (9625 ft.), 2 hrs. to the W. , all atVord admirable
views of the Mont Blanc chain.] We now descend gradually, overlooking
the beautiful upper valley of the Isere (Tareniaise) and the Savoy Mts.
the whole way, to St. Germain, Seez, and Bourg-Sl. Maurice (see p. 301).
42. From Chamonix to the Valais.
Two Roads and a Brm-lk-Path connect the valley of Chamonix with
the Valais. A road leads from Chamonix by Argenliere and Valorcine
to Chatelard. whence one road to the right leads via the Tete- Noire,
Trient, and the Col de la Forelaz to Martigny, and the other to the left
ARGENTIERE. IV. Route ^2. 287
via Kinhaut and Salvan lo Vernaj'az. The bridle-path diverges to the right
from the road at Argentiere , crosses the Col de Balme, and rejoins the
road at the Col di- la Forclaz. Of these routes the road over the Tetc-
Noirc to Martigny is the most frequented, but is less interesting than that
to Salvan and Vernayaz, which affords finer and more varied views. The
path over the Col de Balme, on the other hand, though less interesting
on the whole, cnmmands a superb view of the valley of Chamonix and
Mont Blanc, already described on p. 274.
a. From Chamonix to Martigny via. the T§te- Noire.
261 2 M. Ro.vD, as far as Chatelard good, beyond that point narrow,
and bad at places (driving not advisable in wet weather). Omnibus from
Martigny to Chamonix or vice-versa by the Tete-N^oire 16 fr. ; carr. and pair
35-40 fr. according to circumstances (bargaining advisable ; return-carriages
generally procurable). As the drivers often try to change carriages at the
Tete-Noire or Col de la Forclaz, the traveller who objects to this should
stipulate for the use of the same vehicle all the way; and if he intends to
continue his journey by rail from Martigny or Vernayaz, payment may
be made conditional on catching the train. — Guide (12 fr.) for either route
of course superfluous. Luggage may be sent on by carriage by arrange-
ment with the porter of the hotel (li/o-2 fr.).
Chamonix, see p. 274. — The road ascends the valley and crosses
the Acre between Les Chables (p. 277) and (IVa M.) Les Praz (Hot.-
Pens. du Chalet des Praz ; Pens. Couttet 'a la Mer de Glace' ;
hoth moderate). The village of Les Bois and the Glacier des Bois
remain on the right. At (I'^^M.) Les Tines (*A la Mer de Glace;
Au Touriste) a path to the Chapeau diverges to the right (p. 277).
The road ascends through a wooded defile to (^4 M.) Lavancher
(3848 ft.; *H6t.-Pens. duMauvais-Pas, lOmin. above the road. 11.2,
pens, from 5 fr.) ; to the Chapeau , see p. 277. About '/.^ M. farther
a bridge crosses the Arve to La Joiix, situated to the left, behind a
hill. (Ascent of the Fl^ere, see p. 275.) We next pass the hamlets of
Leslies, Orasonet, and (1 M.) Les Chosalets, cross the Arvp. and
reach (','4 M.) —
6 M. Argenti6re (3963 ft.; *Couronne, R. , L.,&A. 4, D. 4,
pens. 6-7 fr. ; Bellevue) . a considerable village . where the huge
glacier of that name descends into the valley between the Aiguille
Verte (13,540 ft.) and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (12.540 ft.)".
*Glacier d' Argentiere. Bridle-path (guide 6, mule 6 fr.)from Argentiere
to the (2 hrs.) Pavilion de Lognan or du Chardonnet (65ii'S{t.; Devouassoud's
Inn); 1/4 hr. higher we obtain a splendid survey of the grand 'seracs' of
the glacier (where ice -avalanches are frequent). In l/o hr. more (guide
necessary , to be brought from Chamonix) we reach the flat upper part
of the glacier, almost free from crevasses (Afer de Glace d' Argentiere). The
middle of it aftbrds a striking view of the surrounding Aiguilles (du Char-
bonnet, d'Argentiere . Tour J'oire, Mt. Dolent, Les Courtes , Les Droites,
Aig. Verte). We may then ascend the glacier to (3 hrs.) the ^Jardin''
<8805ft.), a rocky 'islet' at the base of the Aiguille d'Argentiere, with fine
flora in summer. — An interesting, but difficult route from the Glacier
d'Argentiere to the Montenvert (guide 30fr.) leads over the Col des Grands-
Monteis (10,630 ft.), between the Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille du Kochard.
Beyond the village the new road ascends to the left in bold wind-
ings. Beyond the (IV4 M.) hamlet of Tre'lerhamp we obtain a fine
retrospect of the Glacier du Tour and the magnificent Aiguille Verte.
288 JV. lloute 4-2. TRIENT. Fium Chamonix
Tlie (*/4 M.) top of the pass {Cvl des Montefti. 4740 ft.), the watershed
between the Rhone and the Arve , commands a line view of the
Mont Blanc chain.
The road now turns to the W. side of tlie valley and gradually
descends, passing (2 M.) a finger-post which indicates the way to
the left to the (25 min.) picturesque *Cascade a Be'rard, or a Poyaz,
in a wild ravine, a digression to which takes ' ., hr. Through this
ravine, the VaUt'e de Be'rard. runs the route to the Buet (10,200 ft.),
the top of which is visible in the background (see p. 280). Our
road crosses the {^/^ M.) Eau- Noire (Cantine; to the waterfall 15 min.
from this point).
We next traverse a lonely valley bounded by lofty, pine -clad
mountains. Before vis rises the Bel - Oiseau (QQiO ft.). In '/.> M.
more we reach the first houses of the scattered village of Valorcine
(4232 ft.; pop. 640). the church of which lies to the left farther on.
At a (1 M.) Cantine we have a final retrospect of the summit of
Mont Blanc. The valley contracts. The road descends to the Eau-
Noire . which dashes over the rocks, and (',4 M.) crosses it. The
(^,'4 M.) Hotel de Barberine (closed) stands at the confluence of the
Ean-Noire and the Barberine. which forms a waterfall here , and a
finer one '/o hr. higher up. "NVe cross ('/4 M.) the Eau -Noire by a
bridge (3684ft.). the boundary between France and Switzerland. Le
Chatelard, on the banks of this stream, includes the small Hot. Suisse
au Chdtelard (mediocre), on the left bank, and the Hot. Royal dii
Chdtelard, '/4M. farther on, half-way between Chamonix and Mar-
tigny. This hotel, burned down in 1886. is still in ruins. At this
point the two routes to the Rhone Valley separate : to the right the
road over the Tete- Noire to Martigny ; to the left the road via Tri-
quent and Salvan to Vernayaz (see below).
Our road now passes through a cutting in the rock and crosses
the ('/4M.) Eau -Noire. The once dangerous Mapas (mauvais pas)
descends to the left, while the new road leads high above the deep
and sombre valley, being hewn in the rocks of the (2 M.) Tfite-
Noire, or La Roche- Perce'e. We next reach (72^.; from .\rgen-
tiere 3hrs.) the Hotel de la Tete- Soire (4003 ft.). A wooden bel-
vedere, on the left 2 min. before the inn, afl'ords a fine survey of
the romantic gorge of the Eau-Noire.
A steep path descends by the liotel to the left to the (20 min.) Goufifre
de la Tete-Noire, a ravine "of the Trient , with a waterfall and a natural
bridge CPont HystMtu.r"). Tickets at the inn (1 fr., with guide). The
steep ascent back to the hotel requires 25-30 minutes. — A path leads direct
from the ravine to Finhaut (p. 289).
The road here turns to the right into the sadly thinned forest
of Trient, skirting the base of the Tete-Noire. In the valley, far
below, is the brawling Trient, which joins the Eau-Noire a little
farther on. Where the wood is quitted the valley widens, and we
reach (I'/aM.) the village of Trient (4250 ft.; Hot. -Pens, des .\lpes ;
Hot. du Glacier de Trient, mediocre), a little beyond which the road
to the VolaL<. SALVAN. IV. Route 4'2. 289
i;; joineil by the path I'loin C'bamonix over the Col de Balnie (p. 274).
At the end of the valley rises the Aiguille du Tour (11,585ft.) with
the flue (ilacier de Trieitt (p. 273,i.
From Trieiit the road ascends soiuewhut steeply to the (2M.) Co'
de Trient. bettor known as the Col de la Forclaz (.4997 ft. ; two inns,
see p. 273). The view hence is limited, but I'/o M. lower down we
enjoy a noble survey of the Rhone Valley as far as Slon. At our feet
lies Martigny. reached in 2 hrs. by the road (p. 273), or in l'/., hr.
by the steep old bridle-path. — 6 M. Martigny, see p. 273.
b. From Chamonix to Vernayaz vi4 Finhaut and Salvan.
73/4 hrs. Koad as above in Ohatelard. thence by a route, practicable
tiiilv for lis;ht vehicles, but more picturesque than the preceding (see p. 287).
Carr. lor 1 pers. 30-40, 2 pers. 40-50 fr.
To Chatelard, see above. Thence to Vernayaz, 4 hrs. — The nar-
row road ascends from the Hotel Koyal (p. 288) to the left, partly by
zigzags, for 40min., andat a cross turns to the right, towards Finhaut.
Now nearly level, with views of the valleys of the Eau-Noire and the
Trient (see above), the Glacier de Trient (p. 273) , and the Aiguille
du Tour, It next reaches (^^hr.) Finhaut, or Fins-Hauts (;4060ft. ;
Pension du Bel-Oiseau, Pens.-Hestaurant du Montblanc , Pens, de
la Croix Fe'df'rale, all three unpretending and good), beautifully
situated.
A path (the beginning of which should be asked for) leads hence direct
to the (1 hr.) Tete-Xoire Inn. It descends steeply to a wooden bridge
over the Eau-Xoire , crosses it, ascends to the right, and passes several
houses, where if necessary, a bov mav be found to show the way, to the
Pont MytUrieuj- and the I'lCtel de'la THe-Noire (p. 288).
Ascending a little, then level again, the road passes C^hr.) a
t'antine (splendid view) , descends through wood in many windings.
and leads along the slope of the hill, past the hamlet of Triquent
(3260ft.), to the i^Uhr.) *Gorges du Trih/e CBuffet" at the bridge),
with its picturesque waterfalls framed with rocks and dark pines
(rendered accessible by wooden pathways; 1 fr.). For the next
20 min. the road gradually ascends, and then descends between
interesting marks of glacier striation to ('/ahr.) Salvan (3035 ft.;
*H6t.-Pens. dcs Gorges du Triege. H.. L., & A. 2' ,-3, D. 3, B. l'^,
pens. 4' 2-5 fr. :* Union, moderate). Engl. Church Service in summer.
To the 'Cascade du Dalley, a fine fall of the Salanfe , a good path
leads in 40 min. viu the hamlet of X*s Granges, on the slope lacing the
Khone Vallev. The finest point of view is opposite the fall. Lower down
the Salanfe forms the Pisssevache Fall (p. 273).
From Salvan a good road , shaded by chestnut and walnut-trees
and crossing the stream about 50 times, descends the steep slopes
in thirty windings to (^/^hr. ; up I'ahr.) Vernayn': (rail. stat.. p. 273).
Baedeker. Southern France. 19
290
43. Annecy and its Environs.
Arrival. By the railway, see R. 38; by the lake, p. 291; by the moun-
tain-routes, p. 293.
Hotels. Grakd-HotbI/ Verdvn, Promenade du Paquier; *Gr. -Hotel
d'Akgleterre, Eue Royale, R. 21/2, A. i/.i, de'j. 3, D. 4 fr., with dependance
on the Semnoz (p. 292); de l'Aigle, same street, well spoken of. — CaWs;
(111 T/iMtre, Promenade du Paquier; at th Hotel d^Angleterre., etc.
Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Royale, beside the Hotel d'Angleterre.
Lake Steamers, thrice dailv in summer, four times on Sun. and holi-
days : to the end of the lake", 1 fr. 40, 90 c., return 2 fr. 80, Ifr. 80 c. —
Carriages to Albertville and Chamoni.x, see pp. 293, 294.
Annecy (1475 ft.), with 11,817 iiibab., is an old fashioued-town
■with linen factories. Formerly the capital of the County of Genevois,
it later belonged to the Dukes of Savoy and the Kings of Sardinia.
In 1860 Savoy was ceded by the latter to France, and Annecy is now
the chief town of the department of Haute Savoie and the seat of a
bishopric. It is beaiitifully situated near the pretty lake of the
same name (p. 291) and is recommended as a pleasant resting-
place, though in itself it has little of interest. The old part of the
town is traversed by canals, and several streets retain line arcade.s
and vaulted passages.
The street opposite the station leads to the Rue Royale, where
we turn to the left. On the same side is tlie Chapel of the Visi-
tation, belonging to the convent of that name. This convent is not
the one founded by St. Francis de Sales and St. Johanna of Chantal,
which was near St. Maurice (p. 291) , but the chapel possesses the
bodies of the two saints (d. 1622 and 1641). Architecturally of no
importance, it is richly adorned with marbles and paintings and in
the choir are two sculptures, in marble, relating to St. Francis and
St. .Johanna.
The Rue du Paquier, the continution of the Rue Royale. leads
to the Promenade (see below). The street on the right, on this side
of the arcades, leads to Notre- Dame . an uninteresting church
with a Romanesque steeple.
At the end of the town next the lake is an ancient fortified Cha-
teau, with square machicolated towers, wliich dates from the 14-16th
centuries. It is now a barrack.
The Promenade du Paquier. with its fine trees, extends in a
straight line from the street of the same name, at some distance from
the lake, towards the heights which border it on the N.E. It aft'ord.s
charming views of the lake and of the Tournette. As we enter it.
on tlie right is the Theatre (with a caU): towards the middle, on
the left, facing the lake, is the Prejecture. a large and handsome
modern building in the style of Louis XIII. In front of it is a
bronze statue, by Becquet, of Sommeiller (1815-71), one of the en-
gineers of the Mont Cenis Tunnel.
On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies the
Jardin Public, with a statiu^ of BerthoUet (p. 291) in bronze, by
Marochetti.
ANNECY. IV. Route 43. 291
Beyond the canal is tlu' church oi St. Maurice, of the 15th ccn-
tnry. Between the canal and the theatre stands the Hotel de Ville
which contains a small Museum (Sun. and holidays 10-12 and i^jo-i ;
open to strangers on other days also). This nmseum boasts few works
of art. but it is Interesting as a local museum well ilhistrating the
characteristics of Savoy. The collections of natural history and of
industrial products, which occupy eighteen rooms, are both impor-
tant and instructi^■e, owing to their admirable classilication and use-
ful explanatory labels; ami there is also an ethnographic collection,
lacustrine and Koman antiq\iities , and a model of Sonimeiller's
rock-drilling machine. — The Cathedral, in the Rue de I'Eveche.
near Notre-Dame. on the right coming from that cliurch. is a Gothic
building (16th cent.) of little interest.
The pleasant Promenade des Marquisats , oii the hill-side uu the right
bank of the lake, aft'ords views of the lake and its surroundings.
The *Lake of Annecy (1475 ft; 9 M. long and ^4-3 M. wide) is
surrounded by meadows, vineyards, and pretty villages and villas,
overtopped by mountains, with the rocky pinnacles of the Touriiette
to the S.E. and the long ridge of the Semnoz to the S.W. The steam-
boats (p. 290) take about 'ii hrs. to make the round of the lake.
The steamer starting at 11 a. m. returns in time to permit its pas-
sengers to go on the same day by rail to the Gorges du Fier and
thence either to return to Annecy or proceed to Aix-les-Bains.
The pier is beside the canal near the .lardin Public. The steamer
steers at once across the lake to Veyri.er , at the foot of the moun-
tain of the same name. Thence it proceeds to Menthon, the old
('astle of which was the birthplace, in 923, of St. Bernard of Men-
thon, the founder of the hospices on the Great and Little St. Bernard.
Here, too, are sulphur-baths and some remains of Roman buildings.
"We now recross the lake to St. Jorioz., opposite the Hoc de Chere,
which separates , on the other bank, Menthon from Talloires. —
Talloires (Hot. de I'Abbaye), about 1 hr. from Annecy, is the prin-
cipal village on the lake, prettily situated and well sheltered from
the cold N. and N.E. winds by the mountains, especially the Tour-
iiette. It has aTi old Abbey (9-1 1th cent.), now dissolved. The
celebrated chemist Berthollet (1748- 1822) was born here. Ascent
of the Tournette see p. 29.3. We are now at the finest point on the
lake, at the entrance of the second part of it, which is hidden from
Annecy by the Roc de Chere and a peninsula on the opposite bank.
— Duingt. the next stopping- place, with its old castle, on this
peninsula . is very picturesque. The steamer finally turns at Bouf-
du-Lac. in the hamlet of Doussard, whence there is a public con-
veyance, in connection with the steamers, to Albertville (p. 293).
Excursions from Annecy.
To THE Semnoz, 10 M. by road, then an ascent of i'/2-2 hrs. on
foot. The road skirts the right bank of the lake to (3 M.) Sevrier.
19*
292 VI. Route 43. PARMELAN. Excursions
and thence ascends to the right to the Col de Leschaux (3030 ft. :
(carriage thus far in 2*,'2-3 hrs., 12-15 fr.). From the Col we ascend
by a bridle-path (steep at places) in l'/2-2 hrs. to the summit (a
railway is being built). The =^Semnoz (5590 ft.) is a mountain,
ciivered with woods and pastures, which extends to the S. of Aunecy
and to the W. of the lake for a length of about 12 M. The principal
snmmit is the Ciet de C7ld^^7io», just below which is a * Hotel (II. 5fr.),
wliere tourists stop to see the sunset and sunrise. Although the
movuitain is not very high, it is a celebrated point of view and
lias been styled the Rigi of .Savoy. The panorama includes, from
left to right beginning on the N. , the lakes of Geneva and Annecy,
the Parmelan , the Tournette. the Swiss Alps with Mont Blanc, the
Alps of Dauphine, the Lac du Bourget. and the Jura chain.
To THE Parmelan. also an interesting and easy excursion. A
jrood path leads to the summit, on which is a dub-hut supplied
with provisions.
The shortest route for pedestrians leads via Villa-, about 1 hr. to the-
S.K. of the station of St. Martin -Charvonnex (p. 267), whence the top is
readied in 3 hrs. via the Chalet de Disoncfie. Until recently the ascent was
made via, Ifaves, 2 51. to the X. of Sur-les-Bois (see below) and thence by
the Chalet Chapuis (see below) in less than 3 hrs. The route now recom-
mended leads via La Blonniere (carriage thus far in 21/2 hrs., 15 fr.)
wlience it attains the summit in 2i/2"3 hrs. more. A guide is not needeil
unless the traveller desires to explore the "lapiaz" (see below).
On leaving Annecy we take to the E.. behind the Prefecture, the
old road to Thones (p. 294) , which passes (3 M.) Sui-les-Bois, a
hamlet before which the Naves road (see above) diverges to the left.
We then descend a picturesque defile of the Tier between the Mon-
tague de Veyriei- on the right and the Muutagne de Lnchat on
the left. We cross (about 2' j M.) the Pont St. Clair to the left,
leaving on the same side the old Roman road from Albertville to
Geneva, where there is still an inscription, and ascend past the village
of (7V2 M-) J*'ii9y- "S'- Clair (Inn) into the valley at the head of
which is the Parmelan. The road extends to the hamlet of La Blon-
niere, 3 M. higher up. Near the farther end of that village we turn
to the left, descend to a brook, and then ascend by a steep path, or
by rounding the valley to the right, to the ('/jhr.) first plateau
(3705 ft.), where there is a chalet commanding a fine view of the
valleys of the Fier and the Filliere, and of the town and lake of
Annecy. A path among fir-trees to the right next brings us to the
(•,'4 hr.) Chalet Clinpuis (7315 ft.), and beyond that a good path (1 hr.)
to the foot of the perpendicular rocks which give the Parmelan the
appearance of a vast fortress. We finally climb the Grand Mon-
toir by a zigzag path (','2 hr.) , furnished with steps and iron bars.
The *Parmelan (6085 ft.) , whose summit and club -hut arc within
'/4hr. of the top of the Grand Montoir, is not only a mountain of
singular and imposing aspect but one of the best view-points in
the district and farther remarkable for the strange plateau in which
from Ann ecij. TOURNETTK. IV. livutc 43. 293
it culminates. The panorama is siDiilar to that from the Seoiiio/.
but more extensive, and the view of Mont Blanc, which suddenly
appears as we reach the top, is very striking. The plateau of the
Parmelan. like the Desert de Plat6 (p. 269) , is a great expanse of
bare and crevassed rocks called 'lajjiaz' , presenting many curious
shapes and containing caverns full of ice, the most remarkable ol'
which is known as 'I'Enfer'.
To THE TouRNETTE, a stiil" climb but devoid of danger and i-econi-
mended to mountaineers. The ascent takes about 6 hrs. from Talloires,
Thones , or Doussard, whicli are respectively about 1, I1/2, and
31/.2 hrs. from Annecy. A guide (10 fr.) and provisions should be taken
and may be obtained at the above starting-points, or even farther on. —
From Talloires (p. 291), whence the ascent is the steepest, shortest, and
most interesting, wc mount at first to the E. to St. Germain, which may
he reached by carriage. Thence the route leads by the hamlets o( La Pirraz,
i'erel, and La Hauphaz, to the Col du Nantet (4375 ft.). Bearing to the S. we
proceed to the Chalets du .Vaiitet and the Chalet de Loo or r Haul (4510 ft.),
halfway (3 hrs.) from Talloires. Finally, by the Arpeiron , to the W. of
the Montrenwnt Valley, we reach the foot of the sheer clilTs of the Tournette,
from 1300 to 1600 ft. high. We ascend these by a 'cheminee' to the
Fauieuil (see below). — From Doussard (p. 291) we follow the .\lbertviUe
road to (21/2 M. ; omnibus) Villard, and thence proceed N. vin (I/4 hr. )
V'esonne to ("ihr. ) Afontmiii (3430 ft.) and the Pr^s de Lars, from which
the ascent zigzags up to the Fauteuil (see below). — From ThOnes (see
below) a good path leads to the S., at first along the Fier valley, to Les
Clefs and (50 m\n. ) Belehamp, then to the S.W. to (about 2i/o hrs.) the Chalets
de Rosairy, where the more difficult part of the ascent (about 21/2 hrs.) be-
gins. The last part is made by iron ladders to the Fauteuil. — The "Tour-
nette (7730 ft.), rising conspicuously on the banks of the Lac d'Anueey, (o
the S.E. of the town, is the chief height in the neighbourhood, and like
the Parmelan it presents immense walls of rock surmounted by a plateau.
In the midst of the latter rises a huge rock. 100 ft. high and apparently in-
accessible. This is the Fauteuil, of which the ascent can only be made by
a 'cheminee', furnished with iron ladders fixed to the rock. The view from
the top is naturally very like that from the Semnoz and Parmelan, but
more extensive, including for instance the Aravis range (p. 29.5). The
Tournette is almost opposite Mont Blanc and at just such a distance as to
aflV)rd a view of that chain at once comprehensive and detailed. The giants
of the Tarentaise and Dauphiue are also well seen, while the picture is
completed by smiling valleys, lakes, and plains. Sunrise and sunset are
often very beautiful as seen from this mountain.
Fkom Annecy to Albektville by the Lake and Favekges.
This route is performed by steamer and diligence in connection with
the railway, in 41/4 hrs. in all (fares, steamer 1 fr. iO and 90c.; omni-
bus 3 fr. 30 c).
To Doussard, see p. 291. The road ascends the broad valley of
the Eau-Morte to Faverges which is seen long before we reach it.
To the left rises the Dent de Cons (6785 ft.), the principal peak of
the minor range separating Faverges and Albertville. In clear
weather Mont Blanc comes into view on the left.
5 M. Faverges (Hotel de Geneve; de la I'oste) , a town of
3013 inhab.. with an old chateau converted into a silk factory. To
Thones via the Col de Serraval , see p. 295 : to Frontenex (Albert-
ville) via the Col de Tamie, see p. 297.
Our road turns to the N.E. and quits the valley of the Eau-Morte.
Mont Blanc is still in sight, and nearer at hand, is the Charvin
294 IV. Route 4ii FLUMET.
ip. 295). "We ci'oss the Chaise and foUow its right bank, skirting
the Dent de Cons. To our left rises the snow-clad summit of the
.Mont Pourri (p. 301).
I2V2 M. Fontaines- d' Uglnes (1350 ft. ; Hotel de Chamonix).
Ugines, on a hill about to the left, is an ill-built little town, with
a ruined castle. Road to Chamonix . see below. We recross the
Chaise, which a little farther on joins the Arly, and then we follow
the right bank of the latter to (IT*/, M.) Albertville (p. 297).
From Annecy to Chamonix via. the Lake, the Valley of the
Arly, and St. Geevais, 52 M.
A combined service of steamboats and diligences (starting from
Uoussard, see above) performs the journey in summer in 12 hrs. {(Are
to St. Gervais 18, to Chamoni.x 21, there and back 32 fr.). Carriage with
4 seats 80-90 fr. (apply Kue Royale 11). A most interesting journey.
To Doussard and (121/2 M.) Fontaines-d' Ugines, see p. 291
and above. — We turn to the left and at the foot of Ugines pass into
the wooded and picturesque gorge of the Arly. We cross the stream
four times in rapid succession , and beyond the hamlet of He'ry
twice more by two bridges , between which is a tunnel. After a
second tunnel we cross two affluents of the Arly, before the latter
of which we pass below St. Xicolas-de-la-Chapelle.
26 M. Flvmet (3000 ft.; Hotels), a large village, with a customs
.station and a ruined castle. Road to Annecy via the Col des Aravis.
seep. 295. — The main road continues to ascend the valley of the
Arly, which expands farther on.
32 M. Megere (3690 ft.; Hotel Conseil), a village whence the
Mont Joli (p. 283; guide unnecessary; mule 6 fr.), to the S.E.. may
be ascended (6 hrs. there and back).
The road now turns in the direction of (2 hrs.) Sallanches (p. 270),
via (1 hr.) Combloiix , a village before which opens a fine 'View of the
upper valley of the Arve and of Mont Blanc.
Travellers bound for Chamonix diverge to the right, a little
beyond Megeve. Their road farther on turns to the E. , and con-
tinuing at a considerable elevation, also commands a striking view
of the valley of the .\rve and of Mont Blanc. It then crosses the
gorge of the Bon-Nant by an imposing bridge to (38'/2 M.) St.
Gervais-le-yiUnge , and descends to (40'/a M.) Le Fayet , where wo
join the road from Cluses to Chamonix (p. 270).
From Annecy to Fi.umet (Chamoni.x) via the Col des Aravis, about
11 hrs., earriage-road, a highly interesting route, especially from the Col
onwards. A diligence in connection with the trains plies to Thones in
3 hrs. (fares 21/3, 2 fr.). There is at tirst a choice of roads: the new
road, followed by the diligence, along the left bank of the lake almost
as far as Jfenthoii and then to the N. via Alex: and the old road, a little
longer, via the Pont St. Clair (p. 292), and then direct up the Fier valley
where it joins the preceding route. Good views are obtained, on the left
of the Parmelan and on the. right of the Tournette and the striking Dents
de Lanfon (5520 ft.). — Thones (2055 ft. ; lUt. Cuillery) is a well-situated little
town at the junction of the Fier and the Nora, 10 M. from Annecy. As-
cent of the Tournette see p. 293. A route leads hence to the E. in 6 hrs.,
ST. BERON. IV. Route 44. 295
over the Col de Serraval, to Faverges, on the Anneey and Albertville road
(p. 293). By continuing up the Fier valley to the left of Les Clefs (p. 293)
we may reach the Charvin (7920 ft.), an ascent recommended to botanists',
and easily made in 6V2-^1""S. from Thones. — Our route next ascends the
Nom valley via Les VillanU and (SJI.) St.Jean-de-Sixt (3320ft.). On the left
diverges a road to (4V> Its.) Bonnevilli', via Petit Bornand and the valley
iif the Borne; another road, branching oil" from this road, leads in i/o hr.
(from St. Jean-de-Sixt) to Grand Bornand (3054 ft.; Hotel), a place of
some importance, noted for its 'reblochons' (cheeses) and poultry. — The
road to Flumet continues to ascend the valley of the Noni, which ben<ls
to the S., and passing (1 hr.) La Clusaz (3410 ft.; Inn) and several ham-
lets reaches the (IV2 '"'■) broad and long *Col des Aravis (4915 ft.) ,
between the Rocher de VEtale (8145 ft.), on the right , and the Porte dex
Aravis (7650 ft. J, on the left. The view of the Mont Blanc range is superb.
The Col is near the centre of the Aravis chain, which extends from
Faverges, on the N. E., to the Arve valley on the E. of Cluses (p. 268),
and includes the peaks of the Charvin (7920 ft. ; see above), to the S., and
the Rocher de la Balmaz (8700 ft.), Tete- Pelouse (8¥!0 ft.) , Pointe - Perae
(9025 ft.; p. 270), and Pointe dWreu (8097 ft.) to the N. We descend by
the left bank of the Aravis brook to (1 hr.) La Giettaz (3640ft.; Hotel des
Aravis) and thence in 2hrs. more to Flumet, where we join the road to
Chamonix via the valley of the xVrly (see above).
44. From Lyons to Chambery.
a. Via St. Andr6-du-6az.
66 M. Railway in 31/2-6 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 30, 9 fr. 90, 7 fr. 25 c).
To (40 M.) S<. Andrt-du-Gaz, where we change carriages, see
p. 319. — The line for Chambery here diverges to the E. 43'/2 M.
Lei Abrets-Fifilieu; 46 M. Presshis, the junction of the line from
Virieu-ie-Grand via Belley (p. 261). The view of the mountains of
the Grande Chartreuse range (p. 326), on the right, improves as we
proceed, the most conspicuous point being the Dent de CroUes
(p. 326), a long white plateau ending in a sheer precipice. 48'/2 M.
Pont - de - Beauvoisin , an industrial town of 2067 inhab. , on the
Guier, deriving its name from a bridge built in the 16th century.
We cross the river. — From (52 M.) St. Be'ron, a diligence (2 fr.)
plies via (6 M.) Les Echelles (Hotels) to (10 M.) St. Lait rent -du- Pont,
whence the Grande Chartreuse is easily reached (comp. p. 325). -
Our route next passes at a considerable height above a wooded ra-
vine, on the left, and farther on we get a good view to the left. —
55 M. Lepin-Lac-d'Aiguebelette is a station to the S. of the Tmc
d' Aiyuehelette, which is 2'/2 M. long by I'^M. broad. Beyond a
short tunnel the lake is again seen; then another tunnel, taking
6 min. to traverse. — 60 M. La Cascade-de-Couz, named after a water-
fall, 160 ft. in height but insignificant in summer, which is seen
on the right farther on. The line now rapidly descends past vine-
clad slopes on the left, while on the other side of the Chamb(!ry
valley is the Dent du Nivolct with its cross (p. 297). After a wide
sweep to the N.W., we .join the line via Aix-les-Bains (see above).
— 66 M. Chambery (see below).
296 IV. Route 44. CHAMBERY.
b. Vi& Culoz and Aix-les-Bains.
86 M. Railway iu 4V'j-6V4 hvs. (fares 17 fr. 5, 12 fr. 813, 9 fr. 35 c).
To (77V2M.) Aix-les-Bains see R. 37. — The wooded hill of
Tresserve then intercepts the view of the Lac du Bourget. Fine
view to the right. — Beyond (80 M.) Viviers, the St. Andre-du- Gaz
line (see p. 295) diverges to the right, and on the left is seen the Dent
du Nivolet with its cross (p. 297).
86 M. Chamb6ry (885 ft. ; Hot. de France, Quai Nezin, near tlie
Boulevards; Hot. des Princes, Rue de Boigne ; de la Poste et Metro-
pole, Rue d'ltalie, to the left beyond the theatre: *Hdf. de la Pai.v, op-
posite the station) is a town of 20,916 inhab.. on the Leisse. It was
formerly the capital of .Savoy, as it is now of the department of
that name, which \\as part of the duchy ceded to France by the
treaty of 1860 together with Nice. It is the seat of an arch-bishop.
Like many old capitals Chamb^ry has a distinct indi-viduality and
though of somewhat monotonous appearance, is a flourishing town
and an important intellectual and industrial centre (silk -gauze
factories). There are also some considerable benevolent institutions,
due in great part to the munificence of General de Boigne (d. 1830),
who acquired a large fortune in India in the service of the Mahratta
princes.
Turning first to the left and then to the right by the Rue de l.i
Gare and crossing the river, we reach the Palais de Justice, a
modern building of little merit. In front of it is the statue of Ant.
Favre (1557-1624). the eminent jurist and father of Vaugelas, a
modern bronze by Guniery. Behind it is a Public Garden.
Opposite the Palais de Justice is the new Muse'e, opened in
1889. On the ground-floor are sculptures and a valuable lacustrine
collection; on the first floor is the library; and on the second floor
are paintings, including works by Memling (Adoration of the Magi),
Santi di Tito, Giordano, II Calabrese (Dido; .Judith), Dosso Dossi
(St. Cecilia), Liberi (Amazons), Allori (St. John), Feretti (Descent
from the Cross), etc.
On this side of the Place du Palais, along the bank of the l^eisse
are the boulevards , which extend as far as the theatre. At the end
of the Boul. do la Colonne is a Foimtain Monument , commemo-
rating Gen. de Boigne (see above). The statue stands on a pedestal
with four life-size elephants from whose trunks the water issues.
The Theatre is liandsomely decorated.
The Cathedral , near at hand on the right, dates from the 12th
and loth centuries. The interior is decorated witli painted re-
presentations of Flamboyant sculptures and some fine modern glass.
Above the town, at the end of the Rue de Boigne, which begins
at the fountain and is in part bordered by lofty arcades, rises the
imposing Chateau, built upon an eminence. Of the original edi-
fice, founded in the 13th cent., only two towers and the chapel are
left, the style being late-Gothic and Renaissance. It is now partly
ALBERT villi;. / V. liotite 45. 297
occupied by the prefet, the military commandant, etc., and contains
also a small Archaological Museum. Beside it is a public promen-
ade called the Grand Jnrdin. On the other side is another small
Museum and a Botanic Garden. We may return to the station by
the Rue dn Lycee which issues from the Place du Palais near the
boulevards. The Rue Favre to the right, on this side of the Palais,
leads to the Hotel de Ville. a handsome modern building.
The neighbourhood of Chambery affords many interesting walks and
excursions. Of special interest is Les CharmeUes to the S. (1 lir. there
and back: adui. i/nfr.), a country-house, little altered since it was the
abode of Rousseau and Mme. de Wareus. — The Bains de ChaUes (Hotels).
31/0 M. to tb«! E. of Chambery (tramway) . possess niineral springs con-
taining an unusually large quantity of sulphate of sodium. — The ascent
of the Dent du Ifivolet (5115 ft. : flue view) takes 41/3-5 hrs. Carriages can
go by the Chatelard road as far as (S M.) Les Deserts whence the ascent
may be made in li/3-2hrs. On the summit is <a huge cross. — Cascade
de Com see p. 295.
From Chambery to Orenoble, R. 50; to Albertville see below. To the
Grande Chartreuse via St. Beron , see p. 295: public conveyance direct
from Chambery (5 fr. 25 c. : return 9 fr.), via the Cascade de Couz, (14 31.)
Let Ecltelles, and (IS M.) St. Laurent-du-Pont (p. 325).
45. From Chambery to Albertville and Moutiers.
The Tarentaise.
47 M. Railway to {^ 'il.^ Albertville in 13/4 - 21/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 15,
4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 40 c). — Road from Albertville to (17 M.) MoOiiers, diligence
in connection with the trains, in 3 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 50, coupe 4 fr. 25 c.).
.\ railway is projected.
Chambe'nj, see above. — On the right is Mont Granier (6360 ft. ;
p. 330). 6 M. Chignin- les- Marches . with the ruined castle of
(hignin on the left. - 8 M. Montme'lian (Buffet), a little town
about ^ji M. to the E. , has a ruined castle which formerly made
it a post of importance. It is the junction for Grenoble (11. 50).
Fine view of the valley of the Isere, which the train now ascends.
- lO'^M. Cruet: 15 M. S^t. Pierre d'Albigiiy, the junction of the
Mont Cenis line (p. 312). The small town, on the right bank of the
Isere, I'/.^M. to theN., is dominated by the ruined castle of iMiolans,
a state-prison in the 16-18th centuries.
The railway to Albertville, for which we change carriages,
l)ends to the left and ascends the right bank of the Isere. High
up on the other bank, at the confluence of the Isere and ."Vrc. is tlie
fort of Montperclie. 21 M. (jresy-sur-Isere, with Roman antiqui-
ties. On the left is Monfailleur. with an old castle, and on the oppo-
site bank of the Isere Sle. llefene-des-Millieres. witli mineral-
springs. — 25 M. Frontenex.
A road leads hence to (11 M.) Faverges (p. 293) over the (5 M.) Col
de Tami« (2980 ft.) from which there is a fme view. Beyond the Col is
(I/2 hr.) the old al)bey of TVimiV and the gorge of the same name (Inn)
and farther on a fine waterfall on the Eau-Noire.
29 V2 M. Albertville (1180 ft.; Hot. Million ; Hotel des Balances,
Rue de la Republiquei, a pleasant town of 5460 inhab.. received its
1Q8 IV. Route 45. TARENTAISE. From Chambtry
present name in 1835 in honour of king Charles Albert of Sardinia,
It consists of two parts divided by the Arly : V Hopital on the right
bank, and Conflans, the older and higher part, on the left. The
latter has some remains of its old walls. The diligence office is
in the Rue de la Republique, on the left, coming from the station.
From Albertville to Annecy see p. 293.
From Albertville to St. Gervais (CHAMO^•lx) via. Ugines, 31 JI.,
earriage-road, with diligence service in summer (to Chamonix in 10 hrs.,
fare 16 I'r.). As far as (5 M.) Fontaines-d" Ugines (p. 294), we follow the
Annecy road; thence to St. Gervais and Chamonix, see p. 294.
From Albertville to Beaufort, I21/2 JI. . diligence daily in 3 hrs-
(2 fr. 25 c.). We cross the Arly, turn at once to the left below Conflans
and ascend farther on, to the right, the pretty valley of the Doron de
Beaufort, passing (2 M.) Venthon and Villard de Beaufort and crossing the
stream three times. Beaufort (2625 ft.-, Hot. du Cheval Blanc ; Hot. du Mont
Blanc) is a pleasantly situated little town , dominated by the chateau of
La Salle. — Thence through the Gitie Valley to the Col du Bonhomme and
via the Col des Fours to ifottets, 9-10 hrs., with guide (10 fr.), see
p. 284. — To St. Gervais via the Col Joli, 10 hrs., with guide, an inter-
esting expedition. There is a carriage-road as far as (41/2 M.) Hatite-Ltcce
(Moliere Inn), then a bridle-path to Belleville and a path, indistinct in places,
to the (21/4 hrs.) Col Joli (6560 ft.), on the S. of Mont Joli (p. 283), from
which there is a view of Mont Blanc. Descent by Contamines, see p. 288.
The road from Albertville to Moutiers crosses the Arly, leaves
on the left the Beaufort road, and skirting the hill of Conflans to
the S., ascends the right bank of the Isere. The lower part of the
valley is broad and the slopes on the left are planted with vines.
3 M. Tours; 2 M. farther, on the left, the ruins of the Chateau de
la Bathie, above the village of that name. After 2 M. more, on the
right, the ruins of Efserts-Blay. High up on the left is a slate-
quarry, worked with the aid of a wire-cable. At the head of tlie
valley on the right, between the Orand Arc (8165 ft.), on the right,
and the BeUachat {8i.66 ft.) , on the left, is the Col de Basmont
(5270 ft.), leading into the Maurienne(Aiguebelle; p. 312). Opposite
(N. E.) is the Tournette (8050 ft.) which must not be confounded
with the mountain of that name near Annecy (p. 293). — 8 M.
Cevlns, or rather La Roche (tavern), a hamlet of that parish. The
valley now contracts.
Here begins the Tarentaise, the southern part of Savoy, which
includes the Upper Vatleii of the here and the Vnlley of the Doron
de Salins, its tributary. The two rivers rise among the highest moun-
tains of France, after the mighty summits of the Mont Blanc and
Pelvoux ranges, and they descend between three other chains of
mountains which have a general direction from S. to N., so that their
slopes are for the most part covered with pastures and woods. The
Tarentaise presents therefore, in addition to Alpine scenery of the
highest rank , a variety of aspects , stich as the Alps of Dauphine,
for instance, lack. It was little known to tourists till quite recently
and it is even now less visited than it deserves. Its mountains form
part of the Orainn Alps, which extend to the plains of Piedmont
between the Dora Kiparia and the Dora Baltea.
to Moiitiers. MOUTIERS. lY. Route 45. 299
To the lel't of the road are the ruins of the Chateau de Brian-
ron, -whose lords were at one time the terror of the neighbourhood i
I0'/2M. Feisgons-sous-Briauf^on. 12 M. Les Champs (Inn) . with
a fine waterfall to the left. 12' j M. Sotre-Dame-de-Brianfon, at
the confluence of the Celliers torrent and the Isere. with an old
Uoman bridge. A good bridle-path ascends the Celliers valley to
(7 hrs.) La Chambre (p. 313) via the Col de la Madeleine (6510 ft.),
between the Gros Villan (8820 ft.), on the right, and the Cheral Xoir
9(300 ft.), on the left. — To the left of our road rises another ruined
castle; and close to the road is a small tunnel, intended for the new
Montiers railway. The valley again expands. On the right opens the
valley of the Morel, leading from Aigueblanche to the Col de la Made-
leine. — 15' 2 M. Aigueblanchei Hot. des Voyageurs). beyond which
is a ravine where the road rises considerably and the railway will
traverse another tunnel. As we ascend there is a tine retrospect of
the Isero valley and as we descend again a good view of the valley
(if Les AUues (p. 307). Close to the road is the confluence of the
Isere and the Doron de Salins, with the remains of the old Moutiers
salt-works.
17 M. Hontiers- en- Tarentaise (1575ft.; Hotel Vizioz.; Hot.
Bertoli. both in the Place), a town of 2310 inhab., on the Isere,
formerly the capital of the Tarentaise , is the seat of a bishopric
which owes its origin to a monastery founded here in the 5th cen-
tury. The treasury of the Cathedral is worth seeing, including a
Renaissance enamelled reliquary, a jewel-casket of the 12th cent.,
an abbot's staff belonging to St. Pierre II. ('?), an episcopal throne
in walnut-wood, and an ivory statuette of the 16th century.
Excursions. Those who do not intend proceeding beyond Jloiitiers
-lioiild at any rate pay a visit to Brides-Us-Bains (p. 307).
To Mont JoLVKT. Tlie ascent of this mountain, which is also made
Iron) Brides-les-Bains (p. 307), Bozel (p. 300), and Aime (p. 307), is among
the finest and easiest in the Tarentaise, but it is long and fatiguing (10 hrs.
there and back excl. of halts; bridle-path to within 3/^ hr. of the top;
guide, The'oph. CuUet, 6 fr., mule 6 fr.). An early start should be made,
before daybreak if there l)e moonlight; and in returning to Jloutiers tlie
height above that village should not be descended vintil after the heat of
the day; the descent to Bozel or Aime is preferable. Passing Feissoiu-
fur-Saliiis , we reach in 2 hrs. the Roc du Diable or the Croix de Feia^ons
(4757 ft.), on the first plateau, where, by diverging a few min. from the
path, we obtain a fine view of the Isere valley. Presently looking back
we see, on the left, the Vanoise glaciers, with the Grand Bee, the Pointe
'le la Rechasse, the Dome de Cliasseforet, etc. ; while to the right of these
glaciers are the Aiguilles de Polset and de Peclet, and on this side of
them, the Aigiiille du Fruit, the Croix de Verdon, etc. — We now follow
for l/o hr. a good path through wood and ascend for another I/2 ^^- to the
right through clearings, then to the X.E. over pastures to the foot of the
Jouvet. At length. 4 hrs. after starting, we come in sight of the summit
between two nearer ones, the chief of whicli is the Grande-COte (8015 ft.)
iin the riglit. About 3/^ hr. farther is a chalet and 1/4 hr. beyond, not
tar from a spring, is the point where mules .stop. To reach the summit
"e ascend the arete on the left (3/4 hr.). which may be easily climbed even
by ladies. The • Mont Jouvet or /ore/ (8410 ft.), which has been styled the
P.igi of the Tarentaise, is, owing to its isolated position between the valley.s
300 IV. Route 46. AIME.
of the Isere and Dorou, one of the chief view-points of the disti-ict. It
affords a very striking panorama, in which nevertheless the valleys environ-
ing it are not included. The chief objects in sight are, to the N., Mont
Blanc and its neighbours , to the E. the Grand Combin and Monte Kosa,
to the S.E. the Vanoise range, and to the S. the lofty summits of Dauphine,
with the fan-shaped Barre des Eerius. Aime and Bozel , not seen from
the top, are respectively N. and S. : the descent to either takes 31/2-4 hrs.
To THE PoiNTE DE Creve-Tete. also 10 hrs., with guide (6 fr.); bridle-
path to w^ithin 10 min. of the top. The way is either via Fontaine^ on the
eastern declivity, or better via Le Bois and Les Avanchers, on the opposite
.Mide. The two paths start on the \V. of Jloutiers to the left and right
respectively from a bridge over the Doron. The Pointe de Crfeve-Tete
(7635 ft.), the upper extremity of the mountain mass w-hich rises to (he S.
of Aigueblanche, between the valleys of the Morel and Doron, affords
also a very fine view of the Tarentaise , particularly of the Isere valley
above and below Moutiers, of the valley of the Doron, Mont Blanc, the
Vanoise range, and Mont Pourri or Thuria (o the E.
46. From Moutiers to Tignes via Bourg-St. Maurice.
IG M. to Bourg-St. Maurice. Diligence (3 IV. I twice a day in
5 hrs., starting at 4. 30 a. m. and 4 p. m. (returning from Bourg at
5. 30 a.m. and noon). Thence to (61/0 hrs.) Tignes, by a road practicable
for carriages except for a distance of ll/o M. beyond I>a Thuille. This part,
which, owing to the carelessness and even ill-will of the natives, may
still be left for some time unimproved, is in case of necessity practicable
for light mountain carriages. It is, however, prudent to take precautions,
for even a mule is not always to be had at Ste. Foy, especially during
haymaking at the end of July. A carriage from Bourg to Ste. Foy (2 hrs.)
costs 6-10 fr. and a mule thence to Tignes not more than 12 fr. including
the attendant (the usual charge for a day) ; all the way from Bourg-St. Maurice
a mule would cost only 12-15 fr. Seat in a carriage to Ste. Foy, 2 fr.
The road, a continuation ol that from Albertville, ascends tlie
right hank of the here which tiiins to the N.E. at Moutiers and is
quite as striking in this upper portion of its course as it is below
Moutiers. Beyond (8^/4 M.) St. Marcel is a detile with three short
tunnels. On the right is the little village of Centron, on the site
of the ancient town of the same name. Then another detile.
7'/2 M. Villette. On the right rises Mont Jouvet (see above), and far-
ther off are the glaciers of Mont Pourri. — 8^/4 M. Aime (2260 ft. ;
Hot. du Petit-St. Bernard), the A.rumn of the Uomans, is now only
a village. It has some inscriptions and other interesting antiquities,
and outside the village, on the bank of the Isere. is an old church
built of antique materials.
A good road, in part practicable for carriages, leads to theN. to
(7 hrs.) Beaufort (p. 298), vi.a the (4 hrs.) Col du Cormei (about 6560 ft.), on
the N. of the Cret du Rey (8660 ft.), the ascent of which is. however, shorter
from Villette (see above). It commands a wide view to the N.
The ascent of Mont Jouvet (see above) is somewhat shorter from Aime
than from Jloutiers. We cross the bridge over the Isere and follow a
good bridle-path via Longefoy, to the S.W.; thence a path ascends to the
S. by the Lake and Coi du Jouvet.
High up on the right is the village of Macot. near which are
some old argentiferous lead mines. 12V/2 M. Dellenfre (Hotel Sa-
voyen), about T'^M. to the S. of Les Chapelles, whence the Roigmti.-i
(9845 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. The glaciers of Mont Pourri
BOURG-ST. MAUKICE. lV.Koute46. 301
are now seen to great advantage. About •'^ M. from the village a path
iliverges on the right to (1 M."i Lanchij (Hot. Rochet) and (3 M.
farther) to I'eisey (4265 ft.).
-Mont Pourri or Thuria (12,430 It.), one of the t-liicf suinniits of the Ta-
rfiitaise, alike striking in itself, in its situation, and in the view it com-
mands, has until quite recently seldom been climbed, owing to the length
and difliculty of the ascent. Since 188G, however, the ascent has been
much facilitated by the erection of a Refuge (cluli-hul) to the E. of Peisey,
at a height of about 8700 ft., at the foot of tin' moraine which descends
to the Grand Col. Jos. i'occard and Ferd. and Claiide-Maurice Favre, all
of Peisey, act as guides. The club tarift' is 16 t'r. for li/o day. From
tlif col, which is al.«o the point made for from \'illaroger (see below), we
take 6-7 hrs. to reach the principal summit, by the arete and the glaciers.
The top afl'ords a view of the lirst rank.
The valley of Peisey forks beyond the village. Taking the left branch
we pass (1 hr.) the ancient lead and silver mines, and thence skirt the
Aigttille du Midi (11,025 ft.) to the (13/4 hr.) Lac de la Plagne and (about
2 hrs.) the Col du I'cdet (p. 305). — Hv the right branch, we mav cross in
5 hrs., via the (3 hi-J.) Col de Frette (8215 ft.), to l.a Chiseretie , in the
Champagny valley (p. 305).
Approaching Rourg we ha\e in front the range wliich is domi-
nated by the Roc de Bellefnre (9385 ft.) and the Lancehranlette
(9620 ft.), to the left of the Little St. Bernard (p. 286).
16 M. Bourg-St. Maurice or he Boury \^2805 ft. ; Hotel des Voya-
ne.iifs or Mayet, dej. 3 fr.) i.s a busy little place owing to its situation
near the frontier and on the road to the Little St. BernarcL Near
the hotel is a house with a facade completely covered with fine
modern sculptures.
From Bourg-St. Maurice to Conrmayeiir via the Little St. Bernard, see
\i. 286; to the Col die Bonhomme , via Bonneval and Chapieii.v, p. 284.
Bonneval-les-Bains , with a mineral spring and a small Bath- Establish-
ment, is only about 4 JI. from Bourg-St. Maurice.
The Tignes road now turns with the valley of the here to the
K. and crosses two tributary streams . the Torrent de.i (ilacierf and
the Reclus. which descend on the left from the Bonhomme and the
Little St. Bernard. - 1'/, M. Se'ez (2965 ft.), a village beyond which
the Little St. I5ernard route diverges to the left. Our road again
approaches the river, passes a fine waterfall, and mounts an incline
2 M. long, from which there is a good retrospective view.
7V2 M. (from Bourg) Ste. Foy (3450 ft.; Hotel du Mont-Blauc ;
lilt Mont-lseran), opposite VUlaroger (3610 ft.), whence the Col du
.Mont Pourri (see above) may be ascended in b^j, hrs.
A patli leads to the E. from Ste. Foy to (9-9Vii hrs.) Val Gri.^anche, in
the. valley of that name (see Baedeker's Switzerland). It crosses the Col
du Mont (8535 ft.; about 5 hrs. from Ste. Fov), between the Bee de VAne
(10,558 ft.), on the left, and the OrmWiiae (10,770 ft.), on the right, and des-
cends to (2 hrs.) Fornets, where (juarters for the night may be ol)tained.
10 M. La Thii'dle (4175 ft.), a hamlet beyond which the road for
some distance is uniiiflnished (p. 300). The valley gradually contracts
aiul increases in grandeur. Its slopes are partly clothed with pines
and larch. On the opposite side numerous silvery torrents descend
from the glaciers of Mont Pourri. There are two also on the side of
302 IT. Route 46. TIGNES. Excursions
tlie road which begins again at the former of these, 1' 2 M. beyond
La Thuille. 15 M. Les Brevieres (5157 ft.: Duch-Damien's Inn).
Our road threads another fine ravine and crosses the Isere to Ln
Chaudanne. a hamlet only a few minutes before Tignes.
19 M. Tignes (5445 ft.; Hotel du C'lnb Alpin, des Tonristes. both
unpretending), a village in a small plain on the left bank of the Isere.
at the confluence of the stream from the Lac de Tignes (p. 305).
and opposite a beautiful cascade formed by the stream descending
from the Lac de la Sassiere. When the road is finished and a good
hotel built, Tignes ought to become one of the chief excursion-
centres in the Tarentaise.
Meanwhile everything is still very primitive. Owing to the rigour
of the winter, those of the inhabitants who do not migrate share their
(Iwelliug-room with their stock. In such quarters light and air are scarce
and the only division between man and beast is a trench. Even when
there is a guest-chamber on the first floor, it is iu a common-room such
as described that the hotels receive their visitors. Happily in summer
the cows are on the mountains and only mules and calves are left as our
fellow-lodgers.' — It is difficult to obtain guides or mules here, especially
during haymaking, at the end of July. The only guide in the village is
Martin, called 'Feu Laurent', who may be recommended for ordinary ex-
peditions and even for the Grande Sassiere : for others recourse must be
had to Favre of Franchet (see below), and ^Victor or ^Jean-Afauiice Man-
gard of Yal-d'Isere (p. 303).
Excursions.
To the Lac de TUjnes, a pleasant little excursion, 2 hrs. there
and back, by a path, steep but easy to find: see p. 305.
To THE AiGCiLLE DE l.4l Graxde-S.vssiere . a highly interest-
ing but laborious expedition, 11-12 hrs. there and back, exclusive of
halts (ascent 6V2 trs., descent 5-5 V2 hrs.; guide 15 fr.). It is usual
to spend the previous night at the Chalets des Sales, 2 hrs. from
Tignes , so as to avoid having to traverse soft snow on the return.
Provisions must be taken. The chalet at Les Sales affords good
shelter. — From Tignes we cross the Isere and ascend sharply on
(the right, passing to the left of the hamlet of Franrhet, whose
rocks have for some time been conspicuous. At the end of 1 hr.
we cojne in sight of the summit of theGrande-Sassierc, while behind
us appears the Grande-Motte with its vast snowfield. A little farther
on we pass a line waterfall and then see, on the right, the Pointe
de Bazel (p. 303). also almost entirely covered with snow. Beyond
the first chalets we perceive on the bank of the torrent the one we
are to sleep at. — From this chalet (about 7550 ft.) we proceed to
the W. to the arete by which the ascent is made. The S.W. side is
too steep and toilsome on account of the debris, but the descent
may be made by it. In */-a hr. we reach a small plateau and are in
full view of Mont Pourri. A slope of detritus next brings us in
70 min. to the arete (9720 ft.) where the summit is again in sight.
In 1 hr. more we climb a small cheminec which presents little diffi-
culty, and ''4 hr. later for a short distance cross the glacier (10.754ft.).
from Tignes. GRANDE-SASSIERE. IV. Route 46. 303
■which is without danger. About */2 hr. farther on we reach a diffi-
cult passage, which takes ^/^ hr. to cross, and that accomplished \m'
get sight of Mont Blanc. The peak is finally attained after ^'4 hr. nf
fatiguing climbing over detritus of slatey sandstone. The *Aiguille
de la Grande-Sassi6re (12.325 ft.) is one of the chief summits ul
the Tarentaise, the third in altitude, and easier than the two higher
peaks (Grande-C'asse 12.665 ft. : Pourri 12.430 ft.). By reason of its
position on the frontier, at an almost equal distance from the finest
Italian ranges, of the Vanoise and the Pourri, and the superb view
it affords of Mont Blanc, it is also one of the best view-points in this
part of the Alps. To the right of Mont Blanc appear the Grand
Combin; theMatterhorn. Monte Rosa, and, in the distance, the glaciers
of the Bernese Oberland. At our feet lie the lonely defiles of the
A'al Grisanche and the Val de Rhemes and the great glaciers of the
frontier. To the E. are the Grand Paradis . the Grivola , and the
plains of Lombardy . often hidden by mists. To the S.E. , beyond
the summits which divide the valleys of the Isere and the Arc, the
whole horizon is bounded by glaciers, from which rise many frontier
peaks more than 10.000 ft. high, from the Levanna to Roche Melon
and far away to Monte Viso. To the !>."\V.. where sparkles the Lac de
Tignes, are the Grande-Motte, the Grande-Casse. the A^anoise glaciers.
Mont Thabor, and the Alps of Dauphine: and nearer is the grand
mass of Mont Pourri.
To THE PoiiiTE DE Bazel Or Ste. HeUne (11,830 ft. and 11,86.5ft.), difficult
and even dangerous if the second peak be included: 7-8 hrs. from Les
!?ales to the first, 3 hrs. more to the second peak. Guide, 15 and 20 fr. ;
rope and axe required. We follow the stream to the (8/4 hr.) Lac de la
fiassiere (8025 ft.), a gloomy tarn chiefly fed by the Rhemes glacier, to the
left of wliieh is the Col of that name (see below). Wu skirt this lake
nn the right to the (3 ^ hr.) small Lac du fiautet (about 9120ft.), where
tlie path from Val d'lsere via the Col de Bailleita (9365 ft.) joins our route.
Hence we ascend to the E. towards the 8. arete, where we get sight of
the second peak, connected with the first by a rid^eofsuow. The view
i- grand but inferior to that from the Grande-Sassiere.
To Notre - D.\ME-DE - RHE.MES - (Aosta) , about 10 hrs. , fatiguing (guide
20 fr., to the Chalets de Rhemes 1.5 fr.). From the Lac de la Sassiere (see
above) we ascend to the left by the glacier to the (I hr.) Col de Rheines
orrfe la Colette (10,045ft.), between the K. spurs of the Grande-Sassiere
and the Ste. Helene. Fine view, looking back, of the Grande-Motte and
Grande-Casse; on the right, of the Grand-Paradis , etc. We descend to
the chalets of La Suche (about 8/4 hr.) and then follow the valley to
.Votre-Dame-de-Iihimes , about 4 hrs. from the Col (see Baedeker's Switzer-
land).
To Ceresole via the Col de Galise, see below under Val-d'Isere.
To BoNNEVAL TiA THE CoL DU MoNT-IsERAx. about 6 his.; bridle-
path, fatiguing, but well defined and interesting: guide (unnecessary
in settled weather) 9. to the Col 6 fr.; mule, 12 fr., including atten-
dant. — The pathis a continuation of the road up the Isere valley,
which farther on forms another grand ravine before reaching a
small plain.
IV4 hr. Val-d'Jsere (6065 ft.; Bonnevie. primitive, dear), for-
Jiierly called Val- de- Tignes , is a little village equally .suited for
304 IV. Route 4G. MONT-ISEKAN. Excursions
an excursion - centfe but offering even less accommodation than
Tignes.
From Val d'Isei-e to the Pointe de la Sana (11,320 It.), 5 lirs. , com-
paratively easy: guide 12 t'r. We fii-st ascend to the S., then to the S.W.
to (3 hrs.1 the Glacier- de la Bai-me-de-rOurs, at the toot of the flue preci-
pices of the Sana. Then we ascend the glacier from W. to E. to a col
(10,200 ft.) on the E. and by snow-slopes to the summit. The panorama
is very fine and comprehensive. The descent may be easilv made on the
W. to (21/2 hrs.) Entre-deux-Eaux (p. 310).
From Va.l-d'Isere to the C'ime de l.v Vache a}<d to the Grande Ai-
GiiiLLE Rousse, with DESCENT TO BoNXEVAL , a flne expedition without
difficulty; 91/4 hrs., with guide. We follow the road to the Col d'Iseran
until it quits the Isere, the banks of which we continue to skirt to near
its source, via (3/4 hr.) Le Fornet (6350 ft.) where the path to the Col de
Bailletta (p. 303) diverges to the left, and thence via the (Ihr.) chalets of
St. Charles (6795 ft.), the gorge called Afal-Passei, and the little valley of
the Prariond (7655 ft.). The path to the Col de la Galise (see below) di-
verges farther on (2 hrs.) to the left, while our route continues to ascend
to the Sources of the here. Traversing a moraine and some turf slopes
to the right of the Glacier dii Col de la Vache, we cross the (U/o hr.) upper
part of the glacier (easy) to the left, and reach the (1 hr.) Col de la Vache,
on the frontier, from which we have a view of the beautiful Lac Cerrii,
to the N.E. A ,-:latey arete ascends in 35 min. to the summit of the Ciine
de la Vache (10,755 ft.), to the S. of the col. To the S.E. , on Italian soil,
rises the Cime dii Parro (10,860 ft.) : and to the S.W. , on French soil, is
the Grande Aiguille Rousse (11,260 ft.). The summit of the latter is reached
in 11/2 hr. by ileseending to the (i/4hr.) glacier, and thence ascending an
arete on the S.. to (l .3 hr.) a depression to the E. of the Aiguille, the(3/4 hr.)
top of which is finally gained by another arete. We return to the (20 min.)
depression, pass (1,4 hr.) I)etween the Aiguille Rousse and the Aiguille
de GoHtiere, (10,475 ft.), and descend to the S. to the (1 hr.) Cabanes de la Duis
7090 ft.), whence we follow the valley down to (li/.i hr.) 5on7ifraJ (p. 317).
From Val-d"Isere to Cehesole via the Col de la Galise, about 8 hrs.,
fatiguing: guide 20 fr., to the Seru chalets 15 fr. We follow the above
route to the valley of Prariond, from which we ascend to the left, by the
moraine and the end of the Glacier de la Galise, to the Col de la Galise
(9835ft.), 4-41/4 hrs. from Val-d'Isere. upon the frontier, afl'ording good
views to the E. and W. We descend to the left, in less than 2 hrs. to
the Chalets de Seru (leaving on the left a path leading into the Val Sava-
ranche via the Col de Xivolet: see Baedekei-'s Suitzerland), and thence fol-
low the Oreo valley to (2 hrs.) Ceresole (5315 ft.), with chalybeate springs,
1111 the N. of the inipo.sing l.evanna range (p. 318).
The Mont-Iseran path leaves the Isere valley about '4 'ir. from
Val-dlsere ami ascends a side valley, in the upper part of which
it is marked by heaps of stones, where shelter may be sought in bad
weather. There !,- a good view of Mont Ponrri as we look back.
The Col du Mont-Iseran 18985 ft.: VU hrs from Yal-d'Isere) is the
principal pass between the upper valleys of the Jsere and Arc. Mont
Iseran is not a single peak but ilesignates the whole mass of moun-
tains in which the Isere rises; the name is thus similar to Mont
Cenis, Great St. Bernard, St. Gotthard, etc. The view from the Col
is limited , but farther on we enjoy a magnificent prospect of the
glaciers and peaks from the Levanna to Koche Melon. The des-
cent is by the valley of the Lenta, which in its upper part forms
a steep ravine, and there is another steep descent before we readi
lionneral (p. 317), 2 hrs. from the col.
To HozKi, vi.\ THE Col uu I'.m.et { Pralogn nu - Mui'i I icrs) , about
frum Tigne.-. COL DU PALET. IV.h'oufedO. 305
8hrs.. in the opposite direction 9 his. This is one of the finest
passes in the Tarentaise and the most direct from 'I'ignes to Pra-
losrnan or Moutiers without sroin^ twice over the same ground. It
i» practicable for nuiles, which it is advisable to \ise at least to the
Col. The charge to Champagny-lo-Haut is 12fr.. including attend-
ant, but an agreement should be made before starting. A guide may
be dispensed with and is quite useless beyond the Col. Pedestrians
bound for Pralognan need not go as far as Bozcl tsee below). —
The path ascends sharply, to the ^\^ of Tigne^ . along the right
bank of the stream which descends from its lake through a wooded
and picturesque ravine. Near the upper end. the path to the Col de
la Tourne (p. 306) diverges on the right. In 1-1*4 hr. we reach
the Lac de Tignes (6830 ft.), a pretty lake abounding in fish, fed by
the glacier of the Graiule-Motte fp. 310). which rises boldly to the
S. Fine retrospective view of the Grande-.Sassiere and the Pointe
de Bazel. The waters of the lake to a great extent filter tlnough
the calcareous soil and emerge some 100 yds. below to form the
torrent which hastens dow n towards Tignes. The Col du Palet path
^oes to the right and leaves the path to the Col de la Leisse on the
left (p. 306). Farther on we bend to the right towards a block of
rock and by a steep ascent anrl an ill-detlned track gain a kind of
plateau, on which is the last chalet. To the right is the VnUee de
I'finey (p. 301 j with it- lakelets, to the left the liorlieiK de Prnmecoit
• 1 l.'2o0 ft.). The Col du Palet (8720 ft.,' lies beyond this desolate
plateau. 2' 2 hrs. from Tigni-s. at the head of the Vallee de Peisey.
to the right of which is Mont-Pourri. and to the left, the Aiguille
du .Midi. To the left i)f the Col, adjoining the glacier of the trrande-
.Motte . is the (ilnrier de J'ldmecv" . followed by a wliole series of
other flue glaciers on the abrupt Hanks of the mountains, behind
which are the Grande-Casse and the Col de la Vanoise (p. 30fl).
Tlie right side of the valley, down which our course lies, is »
complete contrast, the mountains being bare and in no wise re-
markable. The path, which keeps to the left, is for the most part
rough and steep till we reach the (1' ^ hr.) chalet of La Plague
(6650 ft.), near a small lake, giving rise to the Pre'mov stream whose
valley we now follow. 'We then enter another ravine (^4 hr.) and
finally descend by zig7.ags (''4 hr.). Opposite rises the Giand-liec
I see belowj. Numerous torrents furrow the abrupt* slopes on the
left side of the valley, and farther on are two fine cascades on the
ri^ht. We cross the stream se\eral times and pass ('/4 hr.) Lui-
"oiniay (5145 ft.). (' .j hr.) I'libuge, (''4hr.) Le Bo/s or Champagng-
If-Ilaut (4855 ft.: *Ruffler's Inn: guide), and (10 min.) Ln Chhe-
relle (5760 ft.: guide), where we join the path from the Vallee ile
I'eisey via the Col de Frette (p. 301).
TUf Grand-Bee de Pralognan (ll,16ol't-: guide 15 Ir.) is ascended in
^i/.j-SS/^ lirs. (Iliere aud baclv) from Le Bois. We cros.s tlie pasture.* to
rlic N.E.. towards a depre.ssion visible from tlie village, to tlie left of a
roek. on wliicli i.s a little snow, at the (Si/olo-.e.) I>as>* of the arete to
Haodeker. .'Southern Francf. '20
306 n. Rontf 47. SALINS.
the N. of the peak. Thence in less than V4 l»r. we reach the Glacier de
la Ilecca-Moita, and climb a rocky ridge in the centre of it to the (2hrs.)
Second summit, whence in a few minutes we attain the culminating
point, to the W. The panorama is not only very extensive towards Savoy,
owing to its isolation on the N. and its height, but it also embraces the
great summits of the Maurienne and Pauphine, the Viso , Gran Para-
diso, etc.
r.eyoiicl La Cliiscrctte the brirlle-patli befoiiics ;i cjivriage-road
;iii(l threads the striking Gorqe of Champa iiuy . where it is cut out
lit' the rock above the torrent whicli descends in cascades far below.
Soon we obtain a fine view of the lower part of the valley and of
that of the Doroii. dominated by the Pointe de Creve-Tete (p. 300).
In '4 hr. we reach Le Planay, a hamlet belonging to Champagny
;ind the birthplace of Pierre de Tarentaise , better known as Pope
Innocent V. (1276). Pedestrians whose destination is Pralognan
will find it shorter to leave the road here and take a footpath, to
the left of the chapel, which crosses the stream and descends by the
left bank till it rejoins the road at the beginning of the zigzags by
\vhi(!h the latter descends above Le Villard (40 miii. ; p. 308).
From (5 min.) Champafiny-le-Bas (Hot. Roche) the road keeps at a
considerable elevation on the right of the valley, leaving on tlte
right a path going direct to Le Villard (p. 308) : then it descends
rapidly to the (I hr.) road to Pralognan and Uoiei (p. 307).
To PeISEY VI \ THE CoL DE LA ToURNE 01; THE CoL lU: PaLET , B'/v;-
« hi's. : guide 12 I'r. The path is the same as the above as far as the Lac
de Tignes or the Col du Palet respectively. The Col de la Tourne (9270 ft. I,
between the Iloehei-f Rouges: (9875 ft.) on the right, and the Rochers dn
iViardonet (0270ft.) on the left, is more fatiguing but more interesting
than the Palet route. The two paths unite a little way down on the
<ither side and descend between Mont-Pourri. on the right, and the
Aiguille du Midi, on the left (see p. 301).
To Entre- r>Ei"x-EAi'.\ via the Coi. de i-a I-eisse, 61/2-7 hrs., very
fatiguing, especially from this side, owing to the .steepness of the ascent ;
yuide 12 fr. As far as the Lac de Tignes see p. 305. We then ascend on
ilic left to the (31, o hrs.) Col de la Leisse (9110 ft.), to the E. of the Graude-
Motte glacier. The descent is gradual int<i the VaXleii of ilie Leisse, between
the Av/m'lle de la Grande-Motte (12,015 ft. ; p. 310) on the right, and the
Poiiite'de la Hana (11,320 ft. ; p. 302) on the left. This valley, dull and
desolate, and dominated farther on by the 6Vanrfe-C'a.'!,'!<' (12,665 ft.; p. 3l0l,
debouches above, lUitre - deux - Eaux into tlie valley which descends from
the Col de la Vnnoisi- (see p. 309).
47. From Moutiers to Pralognan.
IGV-j M- by a good road. Omsihis in the season to (31/2 1>I) -S'"'**-
les-Bains (75c. ; return 1 fr. 25c.). JIail-cait all the vear nomd every even-
ing to (8 M.) Hotel (1 fr.). Carriage from Hozel to (8i/o JI.) Pralognan,
10-12 fr. : from Krides, 2() fr. for one or mori^ persons. — Mule for ex-
cursions, 7 fr. per day, with attendant 12 fr.
Moutiers, see p. 299. The road crosses the Jsere and aseemls
;it first by the ri^ht hank of the Doron de Saline.
3/4 M. Salins 1 161 4ft.: Hut. de.s Bains, first-class) is a little
village with a thermal establishment supplied by two springs (96"
Fahr.) , strongly charged with chloride of sodium (718 grains per
r.OZKl.. IV. lion fe 47. 307
gallon), in this respect only inferior to the waters of Salies de B(5arii
(p. 105), Nanheim in Germany, ami Saliiis in the Jura. They are
t'hiefly used for baths in scrofulous and lymphatic affections. Man\
bathers reside at Moiitiers (omnibus). The establishment is subject
to the same management and tariff as that of I'rides.
We now turn to the E. and, leaving oii the right the picturesque
Belleville Valley, cross the Doron and rapidly ascend, with a fine
view of the northernmost glaciers of the Yanoise and of the Grand-
Bee de Pralognan (p. 305).
3^ 4 M. Brides-les-Bains. — Hotels. HGt. hksThehmes; Grand-Hotkl;
On. -Hot. de Frakce: 6r.-H6t. i>y.» Baigneuks. —Mineral Waters, Drinking,
ft>e. for 1 (lay 75 c; for 1 pers. for the season 12, 2 pors. 22, 3 pers. 30,
4 per.s. 36 IV. Baths, li/o-2 fr. ; in large basin 5 and 6 I'r. , less for more
pev.^ons. — Casino at the Grand-Hotel, 2 fr. a day, 15 fr. the season, 2 pers.
26. 3 pers. 33, 4 pers. 40 fr. — English Church Service in summer.
lirides-les-Bains (1870 ft) is a pretty little village, in a situation
far superior to 8alins and probably on that account much more
frequented. The water (97° Fahr.) is used for both bathing nnd
drinking, and is laxative and purgative, being especially good for
the treatment of obesity. The Bathing Establishment is dose to
the Hotel des Thermes , the spring a short distance off on the l)ank
of the stream.
Excursions. — To jVont Jouvet see p. 209. To the Valleys of Cham-
paijnij and I'raloguan see p. 306 and lielow.
To the Valine des Allues. From the village ai Les AUues (3700 ft.;
Jleilleiir), 4l,'o JI. from Brides, a good mule-track ascends the valley to
(I lir.) the hamlet of Morel (lodgings). Tbence we may ascend the Croix
de Verdon f>r Dent de Burgin (OttlOft.: about 4hrs.). the highest point of
the lir.'.l mountain group to the left of the valley. — .Vhnnt 71/.> M. from
Jl<.rel lie the Chalets Ju Fruit, to the W. of the Aiguille du Fruit (fO,025 ft.),
the ascent of which is difficult. The absolute summit of the mountain
forms a kind of lower, 40-50 ft. high, scaled for the first time in 1886.
About 21/4 M. beyond the Chalets du Fruit we reach the Chalets du Saut
(7065 ft.), picturesquely situated to the K. of ihn I'ointe or Croix du Vallon
(9695ft.), an easy and interesting ascent, accomplished in 2i/o hrs. from
tlie Chalets de Gebroulaz, which lie about 21/4 31. to the right of the Chalets
du Saut. via the S. slope. — The path to the left at the Chalets du Saul
leads to two passes. Turning to the left again, farther on, we reach the
Col de Chanronye (8325 ft.), whence we descend to (5hrs.) Pralognan,
passing to the N. of the Petit Mont Blanc (p. 308). Continuing straight
on by the patli from the chalets we reach the Col Rouge (81)75 ft.), whence
also we descend to (Shrs.) Pralognan, via the Chalets de Ritort (p. 312).
Both paths command fine views of the glaciers of the Vanoise.
Beyond Brides the road continues to follow the left bank through
pleasant meadows and via the hamlets of La I'erriere and Le Carvi-ii,
and recrosses the stream before reaching Bozel. On the right, hish
up , is the village of .SY. Bon (Inn) . at the mouth of a valley which
runs parallel with the upper valley of the Doron.
S .M. Bozel (Hot. Fnrre , opposite the church; Machcl . well
spoken of), a village at the foot of the S. spurs of Mont Joiirrt.
which may be climbed hence in i-i^jo hrs. (see p. 299>.
To Tignes via Champagny and the Col du Palet, see p. 305.
We now skirt, to our right, the wooded range which culminates
in the Dent de Vi.Uard (751yft.) and leave on the left the Champagny
'20^'=
a08 ]\'. Noiife 47. FUALOGSAN. From MoiUiers
road. Beyond {9^/2 M.) Le VlUanl ('2836 ft.), ;it the confluence of the
Doron and the Premou torrent , we mount lapidly by zigzags to an
altitude of 3600 ft., above the *(loige dc la Ballande. This ravine,
which cannot be appreciated from the road, presents on the bank
of tiie stream some very curious clefts. A patli descends on the right
at the first bend of the road, and ascends again at Planay (see below).
A balustrade enables us to approach to the edge of the gorge. From
the road we enjoy a fine view in the direction of Bozel and, ahead,
of the Yaiioise glaciers on the flank of the Dome de Chasseforet
(p. 311).
ll'/jM. Planay. To the left is the /'w/zt/c </e ^( Vuzelle (8460 ft.),
with its two torrents and inaccessible grottoes. - 12-^/4 M. Ville-
neiire , to the right of the road , at the foot of the rock of the same
name (see below). After crossing the stream ^/^ M. farther on in a small
wooded ravine, we again (;ome in sight of the glaciers. On the right
i- the Dei>f IWtetta (8M0 ft.) and the Rochei' de Plaums (9400 ft.) ;
on the left, the hamlets of (iraiifie.t and iJarbelUiij. which form part
of Pralognan, and .i little farther, beyond the church. Barioz, with
the hotel.
16V2 '^l- Pralognan (4670 ft: *//<)<. Favre . with telegraph of-
fice. — Guides =-M6«^ and *.!<>$. Amies, Favre, brother of the hotel-
keeper, etc.) lies in a small plain, at the confluence of the Doron and
the Gllire , overlooked on the S.E. by the abrupt buttresses of the
Vanoise and the Grand and Petit- Marchet (8400 ft. and 8430 ft.)
from the former of which descend two fine waterfalls. Immediately
to the E. begins the ascent to the Gol (h; la Vanoise, while to the S.
of the village we look right up the uppermost course of the Doron,
towards the Col de Chaviere (p. 312), having in sight the Aiguilles
(le Polset and de Peclet (p. 311) at its head, to the right. The situ-
ation of the place, coupled with the existence of a good hotel, which
>carly improves, renders Pralognan the best hi>ad-(iuarters J'or ex-
cursions in the Tarentaise. It is, however, comparatively littU'
known, and by no means so frequented as it deserves.
If bad weather or the traveller's inclination prevent liini from iinder-
lakin;; an ascent, lie should at least visit the beautiful waterfalls in the
neighbourhood (see above) and ascend towards the Col de la Vanoise to
bev'ond I, a (iliere (see below) fur the sake of the view of tlie t'irande-
t'asse.
Excursions from Pralognan.
T.p the Petit Mont Blanc (881(1 H.). to the right at the entraui-e to the
upiier valley of tlic Duron, 6-61'^. hrs. there and back. ,\ steep ascent of
.i'/o hrs. (guide G I'r., nut indispensable), via J-es Planes (p. 311) and by a
shepherds' track on the N.. brings us to the .luuimit. The superb view
includes Mont Hlanc, the Vanoise glaciers- the (irande-Casse, the Aiguille
ilu Fruit, etc. The descent on the S. to I.a Motte (\>. .312) is easier. The
ilescent niav also be made on the X.W. side bv interesting paths to
(.3Va hrs.) Bozel (p. 307). — 'I'o the Kocher de Villeneuve (7224 ft.), to the
N.W., above Villeneuve (see above), ."J hrs. there and back. The ascent,
free from diffleulty, leads via La Croi.>\ to the left of the road. The view
includes the imposing Hallande ravine in the Doron valley as well as tlift
to Praloytiaii. COL DK LA VANOISE. IV.JionfrdT. lilMt
mountains seen from (lie Petit Mont Blanc. — To tlie Rocher de Plassas
(9400 ft.), a .singularly shaped peak to the N. of the Petit Mont lilaiu-.
8-9 hrs. there and back, with guide; difficult. The ascent leads vii'i
the Col du Petit Jlont Blanc and then by a ridge, giddy in places, and
two cheminees. The view is more e.xtensive than that from the Petit iMonl
Klanc. We may descend on the N. by the side of the Dent Portetta. -
To the Dent Portetta (SlUO ft, I, about 51 '•> hrs.. with guide. We a.sccml
the mountain by its K. tlank and reach in 3 hrs. the entrance of a striking
ravine. Then we ascend on the right by steep slopes to the W. side, and
finally from the N. side gain the summit, from which the view is at least
as good as from the Petit Mont Klanc. — To the Grand Marchet (8400 ft.»,
the left-hand one of the two rocky peaks overlooking Pralognan, and from
there apparently the lower of the two, 61/4 hrs. there and back, with guide;
laborious. We make a detour and by climbing a chemine'e reach the Cliahtf
dn Petit-Marchet whence we attain tlie CTranil-Marcbet chalets and the sum-
mit by another cheminee.
To TiiERMiGXON Hv Till: Coi- i)F, L.v V.vNOisK, about 7' ■> l>i-<-.
bridle-patb. This is the most frequented pass between tlie upper
valleys of the Doroii and the Arc (Maurieniie). A guide (14 fr., 6 fr. to
Entre-deux-Eaiix) is not required in fine weather. A mule is conve-
nient for the ascent and for crossing the col, but not for the de-
scent. The ascent to the Col is itself a very interesting excursion
which no visitor to Pralognan should fail to make. We ascend to
the left directly from the hotel, pass the liamlet of Fontanette and
reach (1 V4 hr.) the I.n (ilnre chalets (about 0640 ft.), the last on the
W. side of the Col. Thence the ascent is in places very steep and
rough. Opposite, on the right, is the Aii/uiUe de la Vauoise (9225 ft' :
on the left, the (ilncier de In (inii>de-C<isse. In 1 hr. from the cha-
lets we reach the former Lac des T'ti'r/te.< (7620 ft.), now drnineil,
and in '/o ^r. more a plateau with the Lac Ln)ui (81.30 ft.). Near
the end of the lake (20 min.), on the right, beyond the Aiguille de
la Vanoise , we see once more the mountains on the right bank of
the Doron. On this side, between the foot of the Aiguille and the
Lac de.^ AssietieK, is the. lief w/e de la Vanoise, a club -hut very
useful in the ascents from the Col de la Vanoise. The Col de la
Vanoise (8290 ft.) is at the end of Lac Long in the middle of a
desolate plateau, surrounded by mountains either quite bare or
covered with glaciers, including that of the Grande-Casse.
Those who wish to return to Pralognan need not go beyond tiie
Col. The path descends a little, skirts two small lakes, and be-
comes indistinct at the head of the stream which descends towards
Thermignou (stakes). To the right is the Pointe de la Keduis^c
(10,575 ft.), whose easy and interesting ascent takes O'/.} '^•'s- '''om
Pralognan. The top commands a splendid view of the mountains of
Tarentaise and Maurienne. Farther on, to the left, is the valley of
the Leisse (p. 306), to the left of which is the (jrande-Cas.ie (see
below), to the right the Horher du Col (10,365 ft.), and farther
ofl", between two glaciers, the Po'uite da Vallonet de Thenni(iini»
(1 1,370 ft. ; p. 316^. In 1 hr. we reach the end of the plateau where
the stream plunges among the rocks and descend, first by the right
and then by the left bank, to ('/.j hr.) -
310 lV.lioute47. GllANDE-MOTTE. ExcwHons
Entre-deux-Eaux (7090 ft.), the highea-t chalets on this side^
with two wretched taverns, Richard's and Rosa's. — For the Citl de
In Leisiie and the ascent of the Grande- Motte, see below.
We now descend to the end of the Rochenre Valley and cross its
brook (10 min.), leaving on the right the well-nigh inaccessible ra-
vine of the Doron de Tliermignon. Then we ascend a plateau
(40 min.), followed (V2 hr.) by a toilsome descent to (20 min.) Clia-
viere. The view is now dull and uninteresting till beyond a (V-jhr.)
chapel, where we have before us tlie eastern flank of the A'anolse-
range with its grand rocks and cascades. At ('20 niiii.) Le Villaid
we regain the Doron, ' /j hr. from Thermignon (p. 315).
Another path on tlie viglit Itank of the Doron leads from Entre-ileux-
Eaux to Thermignon. It is more interesting, but more fatiguing, and is
difficult to lind (guide useful).
To the Pointe de Creux-Noir (10,330 ft.) on the N.E. or left of the Col
<le Vanoise ro\ite , from Pralognan about Ti/o hrs. there and back, with
guide, via the Chalets de la Oli'tre and the glaciers to the S. of the Pointe
du Vallonet de la Gliere (see below). Fine view of the upper Doron val-
ley and the Vanoise range with their great peaks ; the Dome de Chasse-
foret, Aig. de I'olset, Aig. de Pe'elet, Grande-Casse, etc.
To the Pointe de la Clliire (11,110 ft.), farther on in the same direc-
tion. 9 hrs. there and back (5i/a brs. ascent), with guide. After the first
lake we turn to the left and ascend over grassy slopes towards a de-
pression, beyond which is a dried-up lake, almost at the foot of tlie
little glacier which descends between the two summits of the Gliere. In
less than i/o hr. more we reach the foot of the steep rocks to the left
of the glacier, ascend them, without difficulty, in 1 hr., and traverse the
snow-fields of the glacier, to the (I/2 hr.) snowy depression between the
summits, whence 50 min. more take us to the top of the higher. The
very fine view e.xtends from the Matterlioru, in Switzerland, to the Ecrins,
in Dauphine. — The Pointe du Vallonet de la Glidre (10,965 ft.), behind
the Pointe de Creux-Noir (see above), aflords a striking view of the
Grande-Casse, the Grande-JIotte, the Vanoise glaciers, and Jlont Blanc.
It presents no difficulty but is perhaps hardly worth the fatigue and time.
10 hrs. there and back. — To the Grand-Bee de Pralognan^ see p. 305.
To THE Gkande-Casse, 6-7 hrs. ascent from the. Refuge de la Vanoise
(p. 309), and 4 hrs. descent, a first-class ascent, fit only for experienced
mountaineers, with good guides (25 fr.). We ascend at first by the Grande-
Casse glacier, requiring great care, and in 21/4 hrs. gain its third pla-
teau. Then we climb in 31/4 hrs. by the rocks on the right bank and the
Grande-Pente to a narrow ridge, trying for those who are subject to giddi-
ness, which leads in 1/0-3/4 hr. to the summit. The Grande-Casse or I'ointe
lies Grands- Couloirs (l2,665ft.), the highest peak in the Tareutaise and
.'^ll^thel•n Savoy , rises in the X. part of the V'anoise range , overlooking
the. Leisse valley. The view is neither so tine nor so comprehensive as
might be expected, owing to the fact that the mountain, instead of being
isolated- forms part of a mass of which two peaks exceed 12,400 ft. and
several others 11,000 ft.
To THE GisAKDE- Motte, 10-11 hrs. of which about 61/4 hrs. represent
the ascent from Entre-deux-Eaux. This is one of tlie finest expeditions
in the district, and is comparatively easy with a good guide (15 fr.). The
ascent may also be made on the Tignes side via the Col de la I.eisse,
Iput it is less fatiguing from Entre-deux-Eaux. We proceed first to the
Col de la Uisse (9120 ft.; 31/4-3V2 hrs.) and thence in about 3 hrs. reach
the, summit. The only difficulty is on th(' linal arete where some 300 steps
must be cut in the ice. — The Aiguille de la Grande-JIotte (12,015 ft.) is
the, last great peak on the N.E. of the Vanoise range, towering above the
huge glacier of that name, which is seen to best advantage on the ascent
from Tignes to the Col du Palet (p. 30.5). and it aft'ords a grand view to
jiom Praloiinun. AIGC1I>LE-DK-P0LSKT. lV.llou/e47. oil
the N. as fai- as Mont tilauc. Nearer appear the umuntaius on the frontier
with their glaciers, the (irainie-.Sassiere, the Pointe de Bazel, etc.; to the
left, Mont Pourri and the Peisey Valley; to the S., the Arc Valley, Moute
Viso, Mont d'Auibin. Thabor, etc.
*To THE DoMK DE Chasseforet, 6-6' j lus. i3' j-l his. clinib-
iiig) i'rom tlie Refuge desNants, where the night is spout. This is a
grand glacier expedition, very easy from this side (,from Thermignon
see p. 31o), and umch recommended, with guide (15 fr.). From l'r;i-
lognan we ascend the Doroii valley to (1 hr.) Les Prloux (p. ol2) ■•y{\i\
the.ii climb, on tlie left, tlic W. slope of tlie Vaiioise range to the
1 IV4 hr.) ChaMs des .\onfx (7250 ft.), ^/^ hv. to the N. of wliicli is the
liefuge ties yidiits (8235 ft.). Still proceeding to tlie N. we gain (1 '4 hr. -
a binall plateau (8990 ft.) and turn to the E. across the glacier to
(I'/jhr.) the arete (10,990 ft.) and bearing to the 8., by a glacier-
plateau to (IV4 hr.) the top. The *D6me de Chasseforet (11.800 ft.'
forms, as it were, the centre of the great ^'(tnuin^' range, whose gla-
ciers are more than 7 M. long and 4 M. broad. It is not, however, tin*
highest point, as the Detit Farrache'e, at the S. end, attains 12,180 ft.
The panorama includes, from left to right, beginning at the N..
.M<intl5lanc, MontPourri, Grande-Sassiere, Grand-Bee dePralognan.
Grande- Casse , Grande-Motte, the Mont Iseran range, ami the
mountains on the H. of the .\rc valley, from Levanna to Koche
Melon, Mte. Viso, MontdAmbin, Thabor, Dent Parrachee. .Viguille
tIePolset, Aiguille dc P^clet , Pelvoux, Ecrins, Meije, Grande.i-
i{on*&es, etc.
To TOE Aiguille dePolset (Pe'vlet), 13", hrs., of which 9 hr.<.
are climbing or only 6'/2-7 hrs. if we spend the night at the chalets
of La Motte or of Kite rt. The ascent is rocommended ami offers
no serious difticulty; though it is otherwisi^ with its neighbour tin;
Aiguille de Peclet. Guide 15 fr. To the Plancoulonr chalet, sec
p. 312. Thence we climb to the right by \ery steep slopes to the
plateau of the (1 hr.) small Lac Blanc (8200 ft.): then to the N.
over debris, to the (1 ", hr.) first snow and S.W. by the siai'ier,
where there are crevasses, to the (3 hrs.) Vol <le (u'hiuiiilai. (1 1 .320 ft.'.
which is N. of and '/j hr. below the summit. The Aiguille de Polset
(11,605 ft.) forms, with the AifiuiUc ile PcV^/ ( 1 1 .TOOft.i . the la-r
important mass on the W. of the Tarentaisi^ mountains and, for tlii^
reason, it affords the best view of the Danphine, mountains, includ-
ing the Grandes-liousses, Aiguilles d'Arves, Meije, Barre des Ecriii>.
Pelvoux, Ailefroide, etc. The view also includes most of the great
summits visible from the neighbouring heights and especialh of
the great Vanoise range. The descent may be made via the Col de
Chaviere (see below).
To MoDANi: VIA THE Col, i)B C'n,vvif;RE, Sl/.j hr.'s. . guide (II iV. 1 mi-
ntcc.ssary in line wcathi'r; porter as far as the Col (i fr. Thi..; rcuile,
(hough comparatively uninterestina;, i.s the shortest way of reviaining Ihr
railway; in the opposite direction it requires 91 /» hrs. (to the col 6I/4 llrs. >■
We ascend the Doron valley with a line, retrospective view of the N.
side of the Vanoise and the Orande-Casse ami. (o (he lef(. of ilie glaciers
at the font of the Dome de Chas.^efon't. In 1/.. hr. r.cs I'loiits (5240 ft. »
312 IV. Ittnite.48. AIGUEBELLE.
is reached and, to the ri^'ht, the path to the Petit Mont Blanc (p. 3081 ami
the Col de Chanrouge (p. 307). In another Vs l""i at I'rionx (5665 ft.), v\ e
leave the path to Les Nants and Chassel'orSt on the left (p. 311), cross the
torrent twice, climb to the plateau on which are the (1 hr.) Chalets of La
Motte (6333 ft.), and whence, to the left of the Aig. de Polset , the Col
de Chaviere is first seen. Tlie (I/2 lir) Chalets de Ritovt (6470 ft.) are
ne.xt reached, whence a difficult passage may be made over the (2 lirs.)
Col (VAussois (9850 ft.), at the end of the Vaiioise glaciers, into the Arc
valley. Farther to the right, beyond the chalets, is the Col Kouge
(p. 307). Continuing the ascent towards a small cairn and a large ruck,
on a height where the path becomes indistinct we bear to the right. Then
passing the (t hr.) chalet of Plancoutour O210 it.) ^ whence the ascent of
the Aiguille de Polset (p. 311) may be made, and another cairn we reach
the (25 min.) snow. Jlont Hlanc is now in sight, and after 25 niin.
steep climbing we reach the Col de Chavifere (9205 ft.), forming a slight
depression in the ridge which connects the Aiguille de I'oUet fp. 311) with
the Poiiite de VEchelle (p. 313). Towards the S. may now be seen Mont
Thabor, Monte Viso , and the Dauphine Mountains. The descent is at
lirst steep and rough, but we soon arrive at some pastures and bear to
tlie right towards a valley which we have already seen from the Col.
We must avoid descending too far as the path, which is struck IV4 hr.
from the col, keeps high above the left bank of the torrent. On the
opposite side is the Chainere Glacier., from which descend some fine water-
falls and to the S. of which is the Pointe Riiiod (p. 315). Passing through
a well-wooded valley, and farther on bearing to the left, we reacli the.
(3/4 hr.) hamlet oi Polset, beyond which begins a long zigzag descent through
the woods, at times very rough and steep. After about 1/^' l""., we see
the railway and Jlodane, now 1 hr. distant. A walk of 1/4 hr. brings us
again to the torrent, before reaching Loutraz. We bear to the right, cross
the Arc, and pass under the railway which makes a circuitous bend
round Modane in order to reach. higJier up on the right, the Mont Cents
Tunnel (p. 314). Those who do not %vish to stop at Modane (p. 313) find
a short-cut to the (1/4 hr.) station skirting the line, to the right.
48. From Chamb^ry to the Maurienne.
a. From Chamb^ry to Modane (Turin).
61 M. Railway in 23/4-51/2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 30, 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 70 c.).
To (15 M.) >S^ Pierre-d'Albigay , see p. 297. The railway to
Modane tiuiis to the right, crosses the Isere, and enters a curved
tunnel, beyond which, on the left is a line view of the Clidteaii
of Miolans. — 17'/2 M. Chamoussef , to the left, lies at the con-
(Uience of the Tsere and the Arc. The valley of the Arc. through
wliicli tlie railway runs as far as Modane, is narrow and picturesque.
Tliiuigli not fertile it contains numerous factories and mines, whicli
lend it a busy air.
The Maurienne, whicli comprises the greater part of the upper valley
of the Arc, lies to the E. of Modane between the Tarentaise (p. 298) and
the Italian frontier. Here, too, there are grand mountains, but itnlike
the, Tarentaise this district does not by any means present a smiling
as|iect. There are no glaciers on this, tlie S., side of the dividing range,
like those of the Vanoise on the N. side, and glacier.^ appear <in the
right-hand slopes only towards the end of the valley.
22'/.^ M. Aifinebelle. On a projecting rock to the right once stood
the castl(* of C'/ia)'6((?j7t«eces, which was the cradle of the Counts
of ,'^,^voy. Ou the same side, on the wooded mountain slope wliich
»vc skirt, is an iron mine with an inclined-plane tramroad. Higlier
up is tlie Furf de Montiiilbeit (4510 It.): to the left the (irand-Arr
(8065 ft.) aiKl the BeUachat (8060 ft.). Crossiiis the river we rearh
CJS'j M.) Epiene : then roiues a tiiniiel and to the right the Grand-
Miceau (8815 ft.) aiul the Pir du Frhie (9195 ft.). — Beyond (;-$6'/2 M.)
Ln Chamhre are a tower and a ruined castle on the right. After
another tunnel we bear to the right round the ilrond-C'hdtel.nid
(7045 ft.), and recross tlie Arc
42'/2M. St. Jean-de-Maurienne {Hofe/. Sit. Gfon/tK. plain), an
old. ill-buiU town of 3068 inhah.. formerly the chief town of the
Maurienne and the seat of a bishopric, situated ' '.^ M. to the right.
At the top of the street which leads to the town, on the right, is
a hrouze Statue of Dr. 7'\)(/('Vf' (1764-1836). 'cr^ateur de la ni^de-
cine legale", by llochet. Opposite is the line Neuve, the principal
street, partly lined with arcades. It leads to the Cathedral, ad-
joining a heavy square tower. This church, of the 12th and 15th cent.,
with a modern portico, is externally devoid of interest. Under the
portico is the model of the tomb of Humbert 1. of Savoy (d. about
1048) and a bas-relief intended for the tomb representing the
Emperor investing the Count with the Maurienne. Within the
church the most noteworthy objects are the 4^^ Gothic *StnUs (15th
cent.), with an equal number of large figures in low-relief by Mochet;
on the left is a '^Tabentncle. a graiul Gothic work in alabaster, adorn-
ed with niches and statuettes. Opposite is the tomb of Hierre de
Lambert, bishop of Maurienne. erected in 1580. There is another
episcopal tomb, with a recumbent effigy (15th cent.), in the chajiel
on the left. The pulpit should also be noticed.
On the N. side of the cathedral is a fine Cloister (15th cent.), with
alabaster arcades. We enter by a door in the nave, to the left, or.
from outside, by a door behind the choir (apply to the sacristan).
M. ■\"uillermet, printer, in the Rue de lOrme, possesses a Mu-
seum of .Antignities, to which visitors are courteously admitted.
From St. Jean-de-Maurienne to La (Irave, via the uiountain.s, see p. 365.
Beyond St. .Jean we cross the Arvant , a tributary of the .Vrc.
The wide valley contracts to a defile, in which the line runs through
three tunnels and crosses the river thrice. On the left are the Perron,
des Kncomhres (9295 ft.) and Mont Brequin (10,480 ft.).
50 M. St. Michel-de-Manrienne (2330 ft.; Hot. de ITInion) con-
sists of two large industrial villages. To the Col du Galibier, see
p. 336. — The line now begins to asceiui rapidly at tlie S. end of
the Vanoise range (p. 309) and a bridge and five tunnels, of whicli
two are more than ',2 ^^- l""g- indicate the difficulties overcouie by
its engineers. On the left is a fine waterfall. Beyond (56'/2 M.)
1.(t Praz (3150 ft.) are two tunnels.
60 M. Modane {BulYet; Hut. I)iter)tntioiial. at the station), the
last French station, with the French and Italian custom-houses, at
Les Foiirneanx, V4 M. to the S.W. of the little town of Modniii'.
The situation of the place in a hollow environed, except on the W..
:114 JV. Route 48. MONT THABOR.
by lofty mountains is remarkable. The famous Mvnt Cents Tunnel
(see below) begins only a short distance from the station, but more
than 300 ft. above it, so that the line has to make a detour of 3 M.,
passing behind the town and through two tmnels, 600 yds. and
ooO ft. yds. long respectively, to reach it. The entrance, which is
seen from the valley, may be reached direct but it is scarcely worth
the trouble.
The Mont Cenis Tunnel, so named because it supersedes the road ol' that
name (p. 315), which, however, is 17 31. to the W., should rather be called
the Col de Frdjiis Tunnel , as it passes under that col. The tunnel
(73/4 M. in length; N. entrance 3800 ft., .S. entrance 4100 ft. above the
sea-level; height in the centre 4245 ft., depth below the. surface of the
mountain 4090 ft.) was begun in .Tan. 1S61 and completed in Dee. 1870,
under the superintendence of the engineers Sommeiller, Grandis, and
frrattoni. Its total cost was 75,000,000 fr. The ingenious boring-machines,
(•(instructed for the purpose, were worked by compressed air. From
l.'JfX) to 2000 workmen were constantly employed on each side. The
tunnel is 26 ft. wide. 19 ft. high, and almost entirely lined with masonry.
It is lighted by lanterns placed at intervals of 500 metres, on which the di-
stances are shown in kilometres. The carriages are lighted with gas.
The air in the tunnel, although somewhat close, is not unpleasant. The
transit occupies 30 minutes. Travellers are warned not to protrude their
heads or arms from tlie carriage - windows during the transit, and are
recommended to keep the windows shut.
From Modane to Tukin. 661/2 JI., railway in 31/3-41/^ hrs. (fares 13 fr. 30,
!) fr. 90, 7 fr. 25 c.). The Italian railways observe Roman time, 47 min.
in advance of Paris time. The railway describes a curve round Modaue
(see above), affording a tine view, first on the left, then on the right, of
tile valley of the Arc, the Vanoise range, the cirque and glacier of Cha-
\ iere between the Pointe Re'nod (p. 315) and the Aiguille de Polset (p. 311).
It then enters the Moni Cent/: Tunnel (see above), beyond which there is
another line view. 21 M. Bardonnecchia (4125 ft.) is the first Italian station.
The ascent of Mont Thabor (see below) may be made hence in less time
(0 lirs.) than from Jlodane, via Miletet in the charming ValU'e Etroite. —
The railway journey, or at least the first half of it, again becomes attrac-
tive. By means of many tunnels and viaducts we finally descend into
the, valley of the Dora Itiparia. — 20 JI. Oulx. To Hrian(;ou, see p. 344. —
Knim (381/2 31.) Biifsoleno a branch -lin.> runs to (5 31.) Snsa (p. 316). —
(ill' '.J 31. Tnrin, see Jiaeilekei's lYorthern Italy.
Excursions. — .Mont TitAr.op. is an easy climb, practicable for mules,
l)ut it requires a whole day (ascent (Va"^ hrs.; with guide). Tli«
path bears to the S.W. , passes above the tunnel, and leads through the
(ll'.jhr. from Slodane) hamlet of Charmaix, on this side of which is the
pilgrim - shrine ai' Kotre-Dame-de-Charniaix (4950 ft.), said to date from
Cliarlemagnes time. The chapel (fine view) is a favourite object of e.\-
ciirsions. The path now ascend.s tile (.'oinbe de la G rande-Montagne, leaving
(in the left a track which leads to 3Io(lane, and crosses the (Ql/ohrs.)
Col'lela Vallee-Etroite (8020 ft.). in order to descend into the valley'of that
iiaini; (see above), beyond f.es Granges, where the path to Ne'vaehe is
joined (p. 3(37). Presently we turn to the right or X. W. into the valley
I'rom which rises 'Mont Thabor (10,440 ft.), a magnificent point of view for
the frontier district between France and Italy. The extensive panorama
includes the Pelvou.v range and especially the Barre des Ecrins, here seen
to full advantage. Not far from the summit is a Chapel, much frequented
Irom tile neighbourhood as a pilgrim-resort, especiallv on the Sunday after
St. Hartholomew"s Day (24th Aug.). — To the N. iif >iront Thabor, but
separated from it by an abyss, towers the Pi-' dit Thabor (10,515ft.). of
which the ascent is more difficult. The tourist may return via 3Iele/.et,
lieyond I.es (Jranges (see above), or by the path via the Col des
'1 liiires and Xe'vache, which leads from the valley into Dauphine (p. 367).
LANS-LK-BOUKG. I \. Route 48. 815
From Jlodane to Pialogaan via (he Col de Chaviere , see. p. 312. —
To the Pointe de I'Echelle (10,605 ft.), on the E. of thi.? Ool , 6 hrs. , tati-
iruing though witliout much difficulty for practised climbers, with a guide,
and perhaps easier from Thermignon (see below). We bear to the right
beyond the col to reach the (3 hrs.) Lac de la Parlie, from which a sno"-
lieid and couloir (I hr. 10 min.) are gained, the latter taking 50min. l^i
ascend. Thence we reach the top in 1 hr. by the arete and E. face ><i'
the peak. The view is very fine.
The Folate K^nod (11.065 ft.), on the W. of the cirque of Chaviere.
takes about 7 hrs.. with guide. We leave the Col de Chaviere path a
little beyond Polfet (p. 312), descend to the left towards the stream, which
we cross (81/4 hrs.). and then have a fatiguing climb to the (I1/2 hr.) Glacier
tie Chaviere, by which we reach (11/4 lir.) a first peak and then the (I hr.)
true summit, from wliich there i.s a grand view of the Dauphine Alps.
b. Upper Valley of the Ai'C and its Mountains.
KoAL> from Modane to (16 31.) I.ans-le-liourg, diligence iu 4 hr»., fare
3 fr. : thence to Boniieral cart-road in about 4-41/2 hrs. Comp. .Vap, p. 302.
The road through the upper valley of the .\ro. which turns
to the N. E. at Modane, follows the left bank of the river for some
distance. It passes above (2' '.> M.) \"illarodin , and then through a
defile commanded by the Forts de I'Esseitlon (4975 ft.). Rehind lies
.li<.<«o/s (4885 ft.), whence Pralognan may be reached via tiie Cul
<!' Aussois (p. 312) in 6' '.,-7 hrs. (difficult). The valley a^ai'i widen-.
Leaving Brainans on the right, we cross the torrent of .S^ Vitrre.
whose ravine is in parts very fine. ^^4 hr. higher up, beyond tlie
chapel of Sotre-Danie-de-Delirranrf (5110 ft.). Following the
road, we reach the (7 M. from Modane^ hamlet of Le Verney. and
cro.ssing to the right bank of the Arc arrive at (3M. more) SoUih-fs.
There is a fine view of the valley as we ascend by the opposite
bank to the ()) hrs.) Cluilets de Mout-Froid (7475 ft.) on the ^'.^\^
slope of Mont Froid (9330 ft.).
11 M. Thermignon i3870ft. ; Lioit d'Or), a village at the . on-
fluence of the Arc and Leisse. — To Pralognan via the Col de la
Vanoise, see p. 309. Another route leads via the Dome de Chassc-
foret (p. 311), but the ascent is less easy on this side and should
only be made by good walkers with trustworthy guides. — The
road ascends and then descends into a wooded ravine.
16'/4 M. Lans-Ie-Boarg (4585 ft. : Hot. de t' Europe), a little tow n
which has decayed since the opening of the Mont Cenis tunnel.
The Mont Cesis Roai>, made in 1803-10 by order of ^'apoleon I., was
formerly much used, and from 1868 to 1871 haci a small railway on flie
Kell system, in which a central rail gave the needful grip in overcoming
the steep gradients. From J.ans-le-Bourg to Susa is 1') miles. The road
at first ascends gradually l)y 6 great zigzags, across pasture.*. Pede-
strians save li/.j hr. by following the telegraph wires. The view of the
I'eclet , Vanoise, and I.evanna ranges is fine. The wind here is often
of extreme violence and 23 shelter-huts are placed at interval.-i along
the road. The summit-level (6860 ft.) is at the 5th refuge (No. 18). 25 miu".
beyond the last zigzag. In 35 min. thence we reach Les Tarerfieite.<! . and
in 1/4 hr. more (71 /o M. from Lans- le - Hourg) the Hospice dti Mont-tlenif
(6360 ft.) founded by Louis I. the Pious (d. .S40). but rebuilt by Napoleon I.
Close by is a Lake, 11/._>M. long and 3'4M. wide, from which the Ceiiife
issues, making a fine waterfall 1 Aj hr. lower down beyond the (hand'
310 IV. Route 48. BES8ANS. Upper VnHeu.
Croix (6070 ft.). The road descends very rapidly (footpaths shorter; line
view) to (53/4 JI.) Afolaret , in Italy: 8 M. Giaglione or JaiUon, and 11 M.
-S«.«a (Hot. (hi Soleil; railway, p. 314): see Baedeker's Xortherti Italij.
The L;ivt.-ioad leading to IJoniieval. which quits the Mont Ceiiis
road at the bridge at Lnns-le-]5ourg . also crosses farther on to the
left bank of the Arc. but soon recrosses to the right bank at (■^'^ hr.)
Lans-le-V>llar(L On the left, some distance otf. as far as Bessans
(.see below) and beyond, are rugged escarpments, attaining 2600 ft.
in height. These form the back of half-a-dozen glaciers descending
towards the Rocheure valley (p. 310) and overlooked by the Poinfe
(hi Grand- Vallon (10.590 ft.', the Grand Roc Soir (11.605 ft.;
difficult; a flue view -point), the Poinfe du Yallonet de Ther-
mignon (11,370 ft,; same remark), the Pointes du Chatelanl
(11,265 ft.), and the Croix de Dun Jean Maurice (10,300 ft.). On
the right is a long glacier . which skirts the frontier, and above
which rises the Pointe de Ronre (11,870 ft.^. Besides the road
there is a footpath on the left bank which also leads to Bessans.
The cart-road quits the torrent and for a time is separated from it
by a slight hill beyond which we find ourselves in a verdant basin.
The wretched hamlets of Le Mas, La Maydelaine , and Le Ckerte
are passed. The frontier line runs above the glaciers, high up on
the right of the valley.
2'/2 hrs. (from Lans-le-Bourg) Bessans (5645 ft. ; Inn), a badly
built and slovenly village on the left bank, to which the road now
crosses. The church contains some fine figures (in wood) on the
altars, by Clapier (18th cent.).
E.viTiisioNs. — To the "Pointe de Charbonel (12,335 ft.). 6-7 hrs., an ea.«v
ascent, with guide. There is a choice of routes. We may proceed vi;i
the gloomy Valley of Rihon, to the S.E., as far as the (11/4 hr.) Pierre-
Grosse chaiets (6760 ft.): then to the E. over poor pastures and debris to
the arete and the Charbonel Glacier. Or we may follow the smiling Ai'i'-
role Valley, parallel to the valley of Ribon a little beyond Bessans on the
right of the Bonneval road, whence we attain on the S.E. the Glacier de
Charbonel. Between 3Iont Blanc and the Jleije the only summits higher
than the Pointe de Charbonel are the Grande-C'asse (p. 310) and Mont
Pourri (p. 301). It is moreover an isolated mountain and affords in con-
sequence an unusually fine *Panorama of the whole of tlie Dauphine and
Savov Alps, the Gran Paradiso, etc.
To the 'Pointe de I'Albaron (12,010 ft.), called Pointe de Chalanson on
the government map. which assigns the name .Albaron to a neighbouring
summit locally known as the Pointe du rand- Pond : about 6 hrs., an easy
ascent, with guide. We ascend the Averole Valley (see above) for II/4 hr.
and cross the Grand Fond torrent. Then we ascend N.E. towards the
Grand-Fond Glacier on the left of the Ouillarse (10,960 ft. V), and then to the
glacier S.W. of the Pointe, where caution is requisite. The 'Panorama,
similar to that from the Pointe de Charbonel, is one of the most striking
in the Alps. — The descent may be made on the Bonneval side (61/2-7 hrs.).
either by the line Glacier andCof de$ Evettes , on the E. of the Ouille dii
ifidi (10,030ft.), or, somewliat shorter, by the same glacier and the Cot
du Greffier (10,210ft.: line view), after which there is, on the side of the
Chardonni'eres. (or Vallonet) Glacier, a couloir so steep as to be impracticable
unless tliere is plenty of snow.
The Soche Melon (11,640 ft)., a difficult ascent taking about 6 hrs., and
not without danger in the last part, where one guide at least is required;
mules can ascend as far as the glacier. The route leads to the S. up the
,.f /he A,;: BONNKVAL. I V. lloiile 48. :517
Kilii>n valley (p. 316) via tlif clialets or Iiauileis of Pieri^-Grosse , GiafTa,
.Saitsfier, and L'ArselU d lirs. : 7090 ft.) to the (nni of W\e. Roche- Melon Gla-
lier (1 hr. : 7420 ft. 1. The direct a.scent of the latter being daugerou.s, we
make a detour to the left in order to reach the (U 'ohr.) upi)er part of
it. Caution should be used in crossing the glacier on account of the cre-
v.i.s.ses. The 'Panorama from the summit , and even before reaching it,
i.s magniticent. and particularly to the tourist coming from the N. it
alfords a novel view of the Italian side of the Alps. On Roche Melon
we are already on Italian soil. A little chapel on the summit is much
visited by pilgrims on Aug. 15th (Assumption of the Virgin). — We may
ilescend to (4 hrs.) Su^a (p. 316) by very steep schistous slopes.
From Bessaks to Laszo , 10, 11. or 14 hrs. according as we proceed
viii the Col du Collerin, the Col d'Arnes, or the Col de lAutaret . all
lying to the K. on the frontier. Guide indispensable. The last of these
passes is the easiest, the second is fatiguing, and the first is both difficult
and dangerous. Through the Averole Yalley (see above), as far as the
I |i .. hr.) hamlet of Avfrole (6675 ft.), the path to all three Cols is the same.
Tli.nce we climb X.E., in IV2 l>r. to the Col de Collerin (10,620ft.), on
ilie S. of ifnnt Collerin (11,430ft.) and in the midst of glaciers. Thence
we descend to (21/2 hrs.) Balme (Inn) in the Stura d\Ma Valley, at the
end of which we turn to the right into the valley of Lanzo (see below).
— The Col d'Arnis (9955 ft.), on the S. of the Poinle iVArnes (10,560ft.),
lies to the E. in the direction of the main Averole valley and H/2 hr.
from the hamlet. To reach it we have to cross a corner of the Glacier
irArnif. The descent via the Lac della Rossa takes 3 hrs. to Usseglio.,
where tlie path mentioned below is Joined. — The Col de I'Autaret
(10,115ft.), to the S.E. , reached in about 41/2 '""s. more, via the Vallon
lie la Loiuharde^ is crossed by a path, almost practicable for mules. We
descend via the Malciaussia vallei/, which the Koche-Melon (see above) over-
looks on the W.. to (31/4 hrs.) Vsseglio and thence to (21/4 lirs.) Viii, whence
;i road leads to Lanzo, a small town connected by rail with Turin.
The lOad to Bonneval keeps to the lelt bank of the Arc all the
«ay and thieaiLs a gorge between precipitous rocks and bare moiiii-
taiiis. AVe (TOss the last bridge and reach —
4' 4 hrs. Bonneval (6020 It. ; Culei). a poor village which belies its
name. It is situated in a little hollow which produces a little barley
and rye, but the winter is very severe and the houses are even more
wretched than those of Tigues (p. 302). Blanc, the village mayor,
surnanied the (iieffier, is a good guide.
ExciTRsioxs. — Pointe des Arses (10.510 ft.). 6-7 hrs. there and back,
an easy excursion, part of which may be made on mules. The tourist)
should go at any rate as far as the I'latean des Lauze.i (8665 ft.) for the sake
of the view, especially that of the glaciers on the Italian frontier. The
Oitille .Voire (11.925ft.), to the X. of the Pointe des Arses, is also re-
commended as a lini- and comparatively easv climb.
To the Pointes du Chatelard (ll,030lt. , 11,265 ft.. and 11.595ft), with
descent to y^/i<ce-</e»(.'-A'a«.r, about 7 hrs.. an interesting and, on the whole,
i^asy excursion, with guide. We proceed first to the W. to the (.50 min.)
f.haUU den Rncherf (7390ft.). then to the .'^.W. to the (55 min.) Vallon.
(8500 ft,). and thence along the left bank of the stream to the N.W., to a
(25 min.) rocky gorge, at the head of which, on the left, is the (1 hr. 10 min.)
Glacier de AffOn-Afartin. Crossing the glacier from E. to W. (easy; 1 hr.),
we ascend to the S. a slope covered with debris to (l/ohr.) the Col de
V^frette (10.500 ft.) between the first two 'Pointes'. The 'lowe.st Pointe is
ilience easily ascended in 25 min. . over the snow and rocks of the N.
Hrc'te. We descend by a similar arete to the (.50min.) depression beside
the .Second Pointe, the top of which is reached in 25 min. more by slopes
covered with schist; and finally we follow a somewhat difficult snow-arete
lo the (less than 25niin.) Third Pointe, the highest peak on this side of
the valley, with the exception of the Grand Roc Noir (p. 316). The last.
:51S IV. Jioute 48. LEVANNA.
liowever, is not near enough to interfere witli the tine, view, which is
open on all sides fpraeticaUy the same from all three summits). ■ — In
descending to Eutre-deux-Eaux we return to the (Ihr. 5min.) Col de IV-
frttie, which we quit hy its right side near (i/4hr.) a small lake. Bearing
tn the left, we cross tlie stream issuing from the glacier, and reach the
(l)ir.) Fontaine Gaillaide , in the pastures of the Vallori de la Roclieure,
ulience we descend in Ihr. SOmin. more to Entre-deux-Eaux (p. 310J.
To Tignes, via the Col du Mont- Isei-an (61/4 hrs. ; 3 hrs. to the Col),
see p. .304.
Kkom Bonkevai. to C'eresolk via the Col du Cakro, about 7 hrs. Ahout
21/2 hrs. easy walking brings us to the Source of the Arc, and IV2 hr.
more of stiff climbing to the Col du Carro (10,505 ft.). The descent takes
nearly 3 hrs., one hour of which is spent in crossing the Glacier du Carro,
which is full of crevasses and dangerous if there is snow. Ceresole, see
p. 304. The ascent of the peak (11,425 ft.) to the W. of the Col du Carro
is considered tine and not very difficult.
From BoxKEVAL to Lanzo, 10-11 l>rs. via the Col de Girard, 13-14 hrs.
via the. Col de Sea , on the frontier, to the N.E. and E. : both dangerous
and toilsome passes. The same path serves for both as far as VEcot, 40min.
from Bonneval, on the left bank of the Arc. Ascending thence to the
left over (li'-i hr.) tlie Glacier de la Source de V Arc (crevasses), we reach
the (3 hrs.) Col de Girard (10,120 ft.), whence we descend in 21/2 hrs. to
Forno (4055 ft.) ou the Stura delta Gura, which we follow in order to reacli
Lanzo (p. 317). — Bearing to the right at L'Ecot a climb of ^l/.^ hrs. (of
which 3 hrs. are on the Glacier des Eveites) brings us to the Col ce S6a
(10.153 ft.), from which tl»e descent to Forno takes 4 hrs.
The Mulinet (11,380 ft.), a rocky peak at the head of the JIulinet glacier
and visible from Bonneval looking up the Arc valley, may be ascended
in 8V2-9 Jirs. viii the (II/2 hr.) Ouille de Trieves, the valley between tlie
uiounfain and the moraine, and the (31/4 hrs.) Mulinet Glacier which pre-
sents neither difficulty nor danger. Finally there is a crevasse (50 mi n.)
below a cheminee, which we climb, keeping to the left and observing the
necessary caution with regard to the unstable rocks. Once clear of this
disagreeable couloir, which is about 850 ft. liigh and takes 1 hr., it is only
1/4 hr. to the summit. The panorama is very extensive and includes the
Italian plain, and most of the great peaks ofDauphine and Savoy. Mont
Blanc appears like the dome of a cathedral surrounded by pinnacles.
The Levanna (11,940 ft.) is the principal summit in the angle formed
by the ilaurienne frontier, K.E. of the Arc valley. The ascent (about
ti hrs.), rarely undertaken, is better made from Cerrsole than from Bon-
neval. The '■ Vii'W from it was long esteemed the best in the district and
it certainly belongs to the first rank.
49. From Lyons to Grenoble (Marseilles).
8II/2 M. Railway in 3i/»-5-', 3 hrs. (fares 15 fr., 11 fr. 30, 8 fr. 20 c.).
Tlie trains start from the Oare de Perrache (p. 210). This is a pleasauter
line to Marseilles in summer than that via the valley of the Rhone
(RR. 08, 61), but it is 53 M. longer, and of course not to be recommended
for the direct journey (121/2-141 /o hrs.). Best views to the left.
Lyons, see p. 210. — The railway crosses the Rhone, leaves the
fJenova-Chambeiy line on the left, and on the right that to Mar-
seilles via Avignon, and rises to a plateau which is devoid of inter-
est. oM. Vcnisseux: T'/a M. Sf. Priest : 11 M. Chandien-Tonssiex.r :
1.3' 2 M. Heyrieux: 17 M. !if. Qnenfin-Fallavier. The line .tgain
descends. 19 M. La VerpilUire; 21 M. Vaiilx- Milieu: 23' •> .M.
La drive.
26 M. Bovvffoin, with 6345 inhab., the Bergusium of the Uo-
niaris, is situated on the Bourhre which in former times formed
VOIRON. IV. hoHt<- 4if. P.IO
large marshes here. Close by is the little luaiiufaittiriii^ town of
JnlUeu. with 4373 inhabitants. 31'/.2iM. Ce^fiev.
.'55 M. La Tour-du-Pin (Hotel Gintxd). to the left , with 3636 iii-
hal).. is dominated by a hill suimoimted by a bronze statue of tin'
Virgin. It possesses a handsome iicwGotliic rhurch and a tastofnl
fountain in the Grande Place.
The line ascends ; the mountains of Dauphini; appear on the left.
■ 40 M. St. A}}(he-dn-Gaz, le-Gnz. or le-frua (lUiilet). Railway
to Chambe'ry, see p. 295.
45 M. Virie>i-.V(r-Boiirbre, to tlie left, overlooked by a castle of
the 14- 17th cent., in a good state of preservation and containing
some valuable tapestry of the 15- 16th centuries. Farther on is
another similar castle. — 50 M. Cliobons. — Beyond (52'/., M.)
iirand-Lernps we get the first glimpse of the snow-capped heights
of the Belledonne chain (p. 347). Fine view, to the left, of the
Grande Chartreuse mountains (see below), and to the right, of the
mountains on the left bank of the Isere.
59 M. Iiive» (Hot. de la Poste). an industrial town, I'/i M. to
the S., on the Fure, has noted steel-works and some paper-mills.
Railway to St. Rambert. see p. 409.
The train next passes over a viaduct. 138 ft. high. 'As we
approach the mountains the scenery improves. We descend to the
N.. then to the E. . passing over an embankment 130 ft. high and
flirongh two tunnels.
65 .M. Voiron. (Hotel du Cours: du Louvre; de la Poste), on the
left hank of the Morge. a pretty, prosperous-looking town of 11, 954 in-
hab.. noted for its linen-manufactures. St. Bnino, a modern church
built in the Gothic style of the 13th cent., has two stone spires.
On an eminence overlooking the town is a statue of the Virgin,
forming a landmark for miles round.
A)>ont 61/4 JI. to the X.W. is the Lac de Paladru, 31 '.j M. long and
V4 il- wide. Its banks are, for the m«.st part, well wooded and pleasant.
Tliere are bathing establishments at Coletiere and Paladru , to which a
public conveyance plie.s.
Fkom Voiron to the Grande Ch.\rtrei'se (Grand-Som), 15 31.: public
conveyances in summer to meet the trains, in 4 hrs. (3 f'r. 50 c): to (9M.)
St. Laurent in IS/4 hv. (1 fr. 50c.). It is best to walk from St. Laurent to
the Chartreuse (2i/.>-3 hrs. ; see below). Other routes see p. 325. 33/4 M.
St. Etienne-de-CrofseiJ. We then pass through the, curious Defile of the Ora/id-
CVo.<.<ei/, where the road winds between lofty rocks for about II/4 M., with
a tine view of the mountains. We soon join the road from Grenoble,
viu Voreppe (p. 325).
Beyond Voiron, the railway turns southward. 60'/2 M. Moirans,
a small but ancient town on the Morge. Railway to Valence, see
p. 328. We then descend into the Isere valley and ascend it, skirt-
in? the Grande Chartreuse range on tlie S. as far as Grenoble, and
passing to the N. of another grotip which terminates in the Ber de
r KrhniUon . on the right, before reaching the next station. There
,\\c v;iliiable stone quarries on the Bee. The views are fine. We pass
320 I v. Route 49. GRENOBLE. From Lyons
through a short tunnel under the lioise torrent to (7'2'/2M.) Voreppt
(Hotel). The town is V3 M. to the N. To the Grande Chartreuse,
see p. 325.
From Vokeppe to the Cokvext of Chalais akd the Grakde Aiguillr
(Ironi Grenoble see p. 328), an interesting excursion of 5V2"6 hrs. A bridle-
path to the E. on the left bank of the Koise leads in 2 hrs. to the former
Convent of Chalais (3085 ft.), now private property. In itself it is uninter-
esting, but its position overlooking the Isere valley is delightful. There
is an inu just beyond it. From the convent we may ascend the Grande
Aiguille (3590 ft.) in 1 hr., following the pilgrims' path along the hill-side.
The views to the W., Is., and S. are very beautiful.
77 M. St. Eyrh'e-St. Robert. At St. Robert is a lunatic asylum.
Hence to the Grande Chartreuse, see p. 325. Fine view, on the left,
of the Phie'a (5835 ft.: p. 326). Chainechaude (6845 ft.: p. 326), and
other mountains. To the left, near the railway, is the Casque de
Me'ron (p. 324). We cross the Isere above its jvinition with the
Drac. To the left appear the forts of Grenoble (p. 324). and above
them a cement-work with a wire-rope railway. To the right near
the railway is a rifle-range. Opposite us rise magnificent moun-
tains. — SI'/, M. Grenoble (Bufl'eti.
Grenoble. — Hotels. 'Grand-HotelPrimat. Rue de la Halle (PI. B, 5),
pens. 8-12 fr. : ^Mokket, Place Grenette (PI. B. 4. 5). in the centre of the
town, i/n M. from the station (omnibus), E. 3, A. i/.i, I>. 4i/o fr. ; de
1,'Ecrope', Place Grenette; des Trois-Dauphiks, Rue Montorge 7 (PI. A,
B, 4), 8 fr. per day; Vachon (Hotel Oarni), des Alpes, Rue Bressieux ;
DE France. Rue St. Francois; de i.'Umvers, at the station.
Caf^s. Cartier, Mille Colomies, Commerce, etc., in the Place Grenette.
Cabs. With one horse, per drive 75c., per hr. 1 fr. 75c.. by day.
1 Ir. and 2 fr. bv night (10 p. m. to 6 a. ui.); with two horses 1 fr. , 2 fr.
25 c. and 1 fr. 25 and 3 fr. Trunk 25 c. — Piihlic Conreyances ply to Uriage,
the Grande Chartreuse, the Gorge d'Knains and Gorge de la Bourne^
liriancou etc., see pp. 325, 327, 330. 334.
Post and Telegraph Office, Place Vaucanson (PI. 12; A, H. 5).
Protestant Church, Rue Lesdiguieres.
Swimming Bath, Boulevard Gambetta (PI. .\ , 0), 20 c.; reseived on
Frid. for ladies.
Grenoble (700 ft.) is a city of 52.484 inhab. . tlie former capital
of Dnuphhie, and now the chief town of the department of the Isere.
It is also the head -quarters of a subdivision of the 14tli army-
lorps. the seat of a bishopric and of a university, etc. The Isere
divides it into two unequal parts, that on the right bank being
cnniparatively small. It is a fortress of the first class, defended by
a complete enceinte, which has .several times been enlarged, and by
<l('tached forts, situated at the end of the mountain mass round
which the Isere flows and commanding the right bank of that
stream. It is, however, its unique position, at the junction of the
tine valleys of the Isere and Drac. amid a superb environment of
pcjiks attaining 10,000 ft. in height, that makes Grenoble one of
the principal tourist-centres in France.
firenoble. the GratianopoHs of the Romans, was before that the
CiUaro of the .Allobroges. It received its new name in honour of the Em-
).<Tor Gralian (375-3^). who founded the bishopric. In the Middle Ages
the city pasfsed through many hands, principally l)elonging, however, to
N'.M.iiliiL
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to OrenoUe. GRENOBLE. IV. Route 40. 321
ihe bishops alter one, of them liad defended it from an invasion of the
Saracens or Hungarians (995). It afterwards became the property of their
rivals, the Counts of Albon. who took the title of Dauphin , and ceded
their possessions to France in 1349, on condition that they should in
future always be the appanage of the eldest son of the king. From 1369
to 1501 Grenoble was the seat of a tribunal of the Inquisition, established
for the examination and punishment of the Waldensians. The Religious
Wars of the Kitli cent, raged fiercely here under the leadership of two
governors, themselves at the head of the Calvinist party, viz. the no-
torious Baron des Adrets and the Due de Lesdiguieres (see p. 341, St.
Bonnet). Grenoble was the first important town to open its gates to
Napoleon I. on his return from Elba, in 1815. The following year a Bona-
partist conspiracy broke out here, but the Bourbons speedily repressed it.
Besides the university there is a preparatory college for medical stu-
dents , an artillery school, and a school of aerostation , with a captive
balloon. The staple products of the place are the cement invented by
Vicat , and, even better known, kid gloves, much improved by Xavier
.louvin, another native of the town.
With the exception of the Mus^e (p. 322) there is little to interest
the tourist in the town itself. The older portion has some picturesque
winding streets and on the opposite side of the river there is a line
new quarter. Near the station a complete transformation liiis taken
place owing to the extension of the fortifications.
The Place Grenette (Pl.B, 4, 5), in the centre of the town, is
emhellished by a fountain decorated with bronze dolphins. To the
N. tlie summit of the St. Eynard (p. 325) is visible from this Place.
An arched passage to the left of the fountain , at the beginning
of the Rue Montorge , leads to the Jnrdin de Ville (PI. B, 3) , a
fashionable promenade , recently converted into a Jardin Anglais,
and embellished with a band-pavilion and a fountain with a bronze
statue ("The Torrent") by Basset, of Grenoble. It was formerly the
ganlen belonging to the mansion of the Lesdiguieres, a part of
whicli is now the Hotel, de Ville (PI. 9;B, 4), to the E.
Behind the garden is the Place St. Andre (P\. B, i) ., with a
mediocre statue, of Barjard, by Raggi (1823). The illustrious che-
valier, 'sans penr et sans reproclie', born in Dauphin^ in 1476 (p. 329),
died in 1524 at Komagnano, not at Rebecq as tlie inscription asserts.
The words that it attributes to him are also apocryphal. — The church
of St. Andrew (13th cent.) was originally the chapel of the Dau-
phin's palace. To the left of the choir is a modern monument in
the Renaissance style to the memory of Bayard. In the right tran-
sept is a Martyrdom of St. Andrew, by Restout.
The Palais df, .Ju.stice (PI. 11;B, 4), built in the lotli cent, on
the site of the Dauphins' palace, on the N. of the Place St. Andr^,
is one of the principal buildings of Grenoble. The facade is mainly
in the style of the Ixcnaissance. The most noticeable part of the
interior is the old 'Salle des Comptes', now used as the first chamber
of the civil court, to the left, at the top of the stairs from the pas-
sage leading to the quay. Free admittance is allowed when the
court is sitting. It contains some very fine wainscoting of 1521,
a striking chimney-piece by Paul Jude , partly of the same date,
Baedeker. Southern France. 21
322 IT'. Route 49. GRENOBLE. Muse'e.
and a panelled ceiling of the ITth centui-y. The Audience Chamber
and the First Chamber of the Court are also interesting on account
of the "svainscotings and ceilings of the time of Louis XIV.
The Rue du Palais and the Rue Brocherie, to the E. of the Place
St. Andre, lead to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame (PI. C, 4), a heavy-
building of the ll-12th and I6th cent., the portal of which has
been recently rebuilt in the Romanesque style. To the right in
the choir are a very fine stone Reredos (1455-57), more than
45 ft. in height, and an episcopal throne, in the same style, whilst
on the opposite side is the tomb of a bishop, erected in 1407, now
deprived of its effigy.
We turn to the right of the Cathedral to reach the new quarter
of the town, in the centre of which, to the right, is the Place de In
Constitution (PI. B,5,6), surrounded by handsome modern build-
ings. On the S. side is the huge Hotel de la Prefecture (PI. B. 6)
built by Questel (Renaissance). Opposite are the Hotel de la Divi-
sion Miiitaire (PI. 8) and the Hotel des Faculfes (PI. 7); on the E.
are the School of Artillery and the Museum §- Library, the latter also
built by Questel. In the centre of the square there is a fountain.
The city is supplied with excellent water from the springs at Roche-
fort, 7V2 M. to the S., at the rate of 220 gallons a day per inhabitant.
TheMus6e(P1.2, C, 5)is open daily 8-5 in summer, 9-4 in winter,
except Mon. and holidays, but strangers are admitted at all times.
Admittance to the rooms on the upper floor on Sun. and Thurs.
only. The Mus^e occupies the left wing of the building, the prin-
cipal rooms being on the ground -floor and containing both paint-
ings and sculptures. Of the latter there are but few and none of
importance, but the picture-gallery contains over 360 works, con-
stituting one of the best provincial collections in France. The rooms
being lighted from above are well adapted to their present purpose.
The Vestibvle is decorated with allegorical paintings by Blanc-Fon-
taine and Raliouli, both Grenoble artists. It contains also a bronze statue,
by Dint/, of Xavier Jouvin (p. 320).
Picture-Galler/. — Room I., to the left: 308. CI. Vignon, Christ among
the doctors; 181. Bruandet, Forest-scene; 244. Jotivenet (f), Christ in Geth-
semane ; 302. ./. Stella, Christ and the Woman of Samaria; 235. Henry,
Fog at sea; 313. French School, Lesdiguieres (p. 321); 229. Gros, Clot Bey,
of Grenoble, phvsician-in-chief of the Egyptian hospitals; Rigaud , 298.
St. Simon, bishop of Metz, 299. Due de Noailles ; 260. Lemieur, Thanks-
giving of the family of Tobias; Bespories, 201. Stag at bay, 202. Flowers,
fruit, and animals; 188, 189. Bourgriignon, Cavalry fights; 254. Largilliere,
Portrait; 435. Callet, Louis XVI.; 307. Fr. de Troy, Portrait; J- Joitvenet,
241. Allegorical composition, 242. St. Simon, 243. St. Bartholomew; 540.
French School, Head of an old man; 309. Vottet, Temptation of St. Antony;
442. Vien, Rape of Proserpine ; 255. Largillihe , Portrait; 441. L. M. ran
Loo, Louis XV.; 240. Jouvenet, Martyrdom of St. Ovidius ; 257. Lebrun, St.
Louis praying for the plague-striken.
Room II., on the left: *56. Tintoretto, Portrait of the Doge Gritti; 14.
P. Veronese, Jesus appearing to Mary Magdalen; 64. Strozzi, The disciples
going to Emmaus; 7. Fra Bartolommeo , Virgin and Child; *(i7. Periigino,
St. Sebastian, with St. ApoUonia; 17. Cagnacci, Samson and the Philistines ;
11. Bugiardini, Michael Angelo; 56G. Feti, Virgin and Child; 66. Padovanino
(Varotari), Venus and Cupid; 42. attributed to Palma, Adoration of the
Musee. GRENOBLE. IV. Route 49. 323
Sliepherds; **13. P. Veronese, .Teaus liealing tlie woman with an issue of
blood; 49. C'alabrese, Martyrdom of St. Pettr: 446, 445. Salvator Rosa,
JJattles; 34, 35. Lan/ranco , Heads of old men; 532. attributed to Bellini,
Portrait; 529. Manni, Virgin suckling the infant Jesus ; *30. Licinio da Por-
Uenone, Mystical subject; 528. Caravaggio, Portrait; 448. Florentine School
(14th cent'). The Virgin, Child, Bapti.st, and St. Jerome; 531. Bartolo Fredi,
Virgin and Child, with saints; 33. Guardi, Piazza of St. Mark, Venice;
78. Spanish Schoo' . Portrait; *43. Palmegiani, Holy Family; 16. Canaletto,
View of Venice; 26. Fierarins, Carpet and fruit; 55. Tintoretto, Holy Family,
nnlinished: 65, Bramantino , Christ bearing the Cross; *77. Ribera, St.
Hartholomew about to sufl'er martyrdom; 220. CI. Lorrain, Sea-piece: 114.
attributed to Lucas ran Leyden, Virgin and Child; 135. Tan Thulden, Time
and the Fates: 219. CI. Lorrain, Landscape; 121. School of Rembrandt,
Head of an old man; 86. Ph. de Champaigns, Assumption; 102. Van den
Feckhout, Portrait : 92. Be Champaigne, Portrait of himself; 134. Theod. van
Thulden , Mystical composition; 83. Bloemen , Landscape; 132. Terbnrg,
Portrait; 85. Ph. de Champaigne, Raising of Lazarus ; 137. Van de Velde the
Younger, Squadron: 535. J. Ruysdael (?) , The torrent; 117. K. de Moor,
Diitch Admiral; 82. Bloemaert , Adoration of the Magi; 130. Snyders, Dog
and cat: 84. Bol, Portrait; 96. Gasp, de Crayer, Martyrdom of St. Catharine;
109. Hobbema, 122. Roos, Landscape; **124. Rubens, St. Gregory; 91. Ph. de
■Champaigne , Portrait of the Abbe de St. Cyran; 95. G. de Crayer, Virgin
and Child, with saints; 453. Dutch School, Portrait; 462. Ruysdael, Land-
scape; Ph. de Champaigne , 89. Louis XIV. conferring the order of the St.
E.sprit upon his l)rother, the Duke of Anjou, afterwards Duke of Orleans,
87. John the Baptist: +115. Van der Meulen, Louis XIV. crossing the Pont
JJeuf; 93. J. B. de Champaigne , Benediction of tlie Order of St. Dominie:
101. attributed to Van Dyck, Repentant Magdalen ; 112. ./o/'rfaert^, Adoration
of the Shepherds ; 131. S/iyrfe/'.', Parrots and birds; 103. Van Eeckhout, Xohn
de Witt, Grand Pensionary: HO. Ilonthorsi , Disciples going to Emmaus ;
88. Ph. de Champaigne, Crucifixion.
Room III., modern paintings: 237. Hillemacher , Tlie dying Anthony
brought to Cleopatra; 225. Grellet, St. Paul at Athens; 500. Guillemet, Low
tide at Villerville : 170. Belief du Poisat, Hussites entering the Council of
Bale; '582. Merle, The Redeemer; 94. C. ile Cock, Cress-gatherer of Veule
(Xormandy); 690. Brouillet, Wounded peasant: 576. Faure , The Spring:
194. Debelle, Napoleon entering Grenoble in 1815 (p. 321) ; 171. Biennourii,
Death of Messalina'; 693. Gui-tal, Lac de TEychauda; 165. Achard, View
from St. Egreve (p. 320). — Room IV., on" the left; 60. after Raphael,
School of Athens, copy attributed to N. Poussin ; 290. Raffort , Entry ol
Henry III. of France into Venice; 440. Mignard, Idyl; 70. after Oomenichino,
St. Cecilia distributing her wealtli to the poor, copy by L. Lagrenee ; 12.
after Mich. Angela, Priestess of Delphi, copy by lUber't ; 574. Gust. Dori,
View in Scotland; 61. after Raphael, Victory of Constantine , copy attri-
biited to Fr. Vanni ; 2.58. Leleux, Haymaking; 539. Jjoemlein, Jacob's ladder:
52. after Guido Rent, The hermits St. Paul and St. Antony, copy attributed
to Subleyras. — Adjoining is the Exhiltition Hall of the library (p. 324).
Sculpture and Archaeological Collection, in the rooms parallel to the
preceding, as we return towards the vestibule, casts and originals. Roo.m I.
375. Uusson, Haydee ; 645. Chappuy, of Grenoble, Moses in the ark of bul-
rushes; 379. Montague, Mother taking her child to the bath; 377. Marcellin,
Cypriote shepherd; 644. Ba.'tset, The first flowers, bronze; 523. Desprez,
Innocence; 384, Trupheme, Angelica fastened to the rock. — Room II. Casts
from the antique; antique torso, busts, and bas-relief. — Room III.
Antiquities, mediaeval and Renaissance sculptures; 387, 388. two bronze
lions; 16th cent, window, etc.
The Galekik Genin, on the first floor, contains collections of objects
of art, antique furniture, bas-reliefs, ivories, pottery, porcelain, water-
colours, tapestry, etc. In the centre of the second room is a recumbent
statue of the donor's first wife, by Fabisch. — The second lloor is appro-
priated to Draicings and Fngravings, amongst which are many drawing*
t)y old masters, and at the farther end is a large work in crayons by
Tourneux', the 'Organ-point".
01.::
3'24 IV. Route 49. GRENOBLE. Environs.
The Library, ^vLich oeeupies the right \ving of the building, is open-
to readers and strangers at the same times as the Muse'e, except during the
vacation , and the public is admitted to the great hall every day from
11-4, Mon. and Frid . excepted. — There are nearly 170,000 voUimes and
7307 MSS. and in theological works it is one of the richest libraries in
the provinces. The ^Exhibition Hall is decorated with allegorical paint-
ings by Blanc-Fontaine and Rahoult. Round the room and in the centre
are glass cases containing various curiosities, 3ISS. and early printed
books, specimens of rich bindings, seals, and medals. In the middle is
a model of the neighbourhood of Grenoble, more medals, some small
antiquities, several line statuettes, small bronze busts, and a Merovingian
helmet of the 6th cent., etc.
The Jardin des PJantes (PL C, 6), a short distance off on the left,
at the back of the Prefecture, has a Botanic Garden and a short pro-
menade. The entrance is in the Rue Dolomieu. The 3/H«eum is well
arranged but of little interest except for its specimens of Dauphin^
minerals; it is open daily during the summer, and in winter on
Sun., Thurs., and Sat. from 11 to 4.
A modern bronze Statue of Vaucanson (P1.B,5), by Chappuy,
stands in the square bearing the name of that celebrated mechanician
(1709-1782), to the W. of the Place de la Constitution. Behind are
the Post and Telegraph Offices.
From the quays and from the bridges which span the Isere there
is a splendid view extending as far as Mont Blanc. The cement
made in the neighbourhood (p. 320) is used for the paving of the
quays and also with great success in many of the streets. There
are two stone bridges and a suspensioti bridge. At the end of the
last, on the right bank, is the Fontaine du Lion , with a lion crush-
ing a serpent, by Sappey.
St. Laurent (PL C, 3), the church of this district, dating mainly
from the 11th cent., has a remarkable Crypt dating back, it is said>
to the 6th cent., in the shape of a cross with semicircular ends, and
borne by 28 columns, 15 of which are of white Parian marble. It
is entered from outside; visitors apply to the sacristan who lives
opposite the church.
The promenade of the He Verte (PL D, 4,5), outside the city walls,
extends on the left bank of the river from the gateway of that name
to the Porte des Adieux. leading to the Cemetery, which contains
several handsome monuments by Sappey, Irvoy, and Ding.
Environs. The view-points all'orded by the town itself are naturally
surpassed by those on the slopes of Mont Rachais (346.5 ft.). which overlooks
the town on the N. A large part of the liill is occupied by Fort Rabat
and, higher up, the Fort de la Bastille (1585 ft. >, which can only be entered
on the written order of the Commandant.
A more extensive panorama may be enjoyed from the top of the
*Jala (2130 ft.: 3-4 hrs. there and t>ack), the part'ofthe Kachais above the Ba-
stille. The route leads to the K. along the Chambery road, on the right bank
of tlie river, for about 6 min., and ascends by zigzags on the left. On these
heights are quarries which supply the raw material for cement -making,
which is brought down by a cable-tramway on the S.W. — The mountain
farther to the W. is the Ca'sque de N4ron (4280 ft.), but the difficulty of its
ascent is ill repaid by a comparatively restricted view. A considerable
landslip occurred on this mountain in 1888.
Excursioyu. GRENOBLE. IV. Route 40. 325
To the N.E. of Grenoble^ on the right bank of th.e Isere, is the small
town of (1 31.) La Tranche (omnibus, 15 c), whose church possesses a fine
painting by Hubert, 'La Vierge de la De'livrance'. Thence a pleasant walk
leads past the loot of the eminence on which is the Afontfleury Convent tu
(2 M.) Bouquiron ^ a hamlet with an old chateau now converted into a
liath Establishment, to which an omnibus plies from the Place Grenette
in Grenoble (40 c). — About 3/4*1- higher up is Corenc, charmingly sit-
uated and with a lovely view. Above rises the St. £ynard (4460 ft.), the
best view-point in the neighbourhood of Grenoble. Xear the top is a
fort which can only be entered by written permission. — This route forms
part of that to the Grande Chartreuse via Le Sappey (see below).
Excursions. — To the *Grande Chartreuse. Most tourists take the
carriage-routes via St. Laurent-du-Pont and via Sappey, going one way and
returning the other. We may also drive to Voiron (p. 319; public con-
veyance from the Bue Montorge, 1 fr.). whither also we may go by railway
from Grenoble or from Chambe'ry (comp. p. 319), rejoining the above route
beyond St. Laurent. — Pedestrians are recommended to follow the route
(7-8hrs.) via St. Robert (railway station, p. 320; public carr. from Grenoble,
35c.). (1/2'"".) La Afonta, (1 hr.) Proreysieux (Hotel), Savoyardih-e, Pomaray,
and the'(2hrs.) Col de la Charmetie (3935 ft.; refuge -hut), whence the
Charmant-Som (6135 ft.), to the E., may be ascended in II/4 hr. From the
col they continue via (l/.2hr.) the Habert de Tenaison, where they turn to
the right beyond the brook, the (;V4hr.) Col de laCochette, the (V4 hr.) Habert
de Malamille, the (l/.i hr.) Ilabert Valhombr^e, the (l/4hr.) Pont de la Tan-
nerie (avoiding the road to the right before the bridge), and the (,^/'>\xr.)
■Courrerie. on the Sappey road, U/o JI. from the Grande Chartreuse (see below).
— The walk from St. Laurent-du-Pont is also particularly recommended.
Via Vorepi'e and St. Laurent-du-Pokt, ketirnisg via Le Sappev,
or vice versa, public conveyances twice daily in summer, in about
51/2 hrs. , returning in 4 hrs. . 10 fr. there and back. The vehicles start
from the office at the corner of the Rue Montorge and Rue de France at
6 a. m. (for travellers not intending to sleep at the monastery) and 3.30
p. m. — Travellers going via Voiron see the Defile of the Grand - Crossey
(p. 319), but may have to return by the same route for want of seats in
the other vehicles. — The direct road follows the loft bank of the Isere,
via the Porte de France (17th cent.), and then ascends. SI/.jM. St. Robert:
0I/2M. Fontanil. At (81/2 M.) Voreppe (820 ft.; p. 320) we quit the valley
• if the Isere. and enter the mountain.s to the N. — 13 M. La Placette (1955 ft. ;
Inn). The road descends a little and joins the Voiron road bevond the
defile (if the (irand-Crossey (p. 319). — l?!/.^ M. St.Joseph-de-Riviire. — 20 M.
St. laurent-du-Pont (1345ft.: Hotel dea Princes: du Nord : de l Europe) has
a church in the style of the 13th cent., rebuilt by the Carthusians in 1855
after a fire which destroyed a large part of the village. Diligence to
St. Beron, see p. 295. — The Valley of the Gttier-Mort, which we now enter,
is perhaps the most interesting part of the e.xcursion. In 1/2 hr. we reach
Fourvoirie, where the monks manufacture their famous liqueur. The name
signifies 'a gap' (foraia via), and indeed the valley is so narrow, that
it was impassable until the 16th cent., when the Carthusians made a road
which has been widened of late years. It was formerly guarded by a
gate, in the days when all the upper part of the valley belonged to the
monastery. The gorge beyond is magnificent. About 3 M. from St. Lau-
rent, the road crosses the St. Bruno Bridge, 150 ft. in height; higher up
the river is another picturesque old bridge, .'^n ascent of 20 min. bring.*
us to the rock called (Eillette or Aiguillette; 20 min. farther is a tunnel
72yds. long, followed by three shorter ones. Still ascending higher and
higher above the Guier we reach the Pont St. Pierre, over which the Gre-
noble road via Le Sappey is carried. At last we see the Grand-Som, sur-
mounted by its cross (see p. 326), and the monastery just before we
reach it.
The Grande Chartreuse (3205 ft.), situated in the midst of mountains,
now well-wooded, in a solitude still called 'the Desert', is the monastery
founded by St. Bruno in 1084, which became the parent-house of a widely
326 IV. Route 49. GRENOBLE. Excursions
spread ordei-, whence it gained tlie distinguisbing title (if Grande. Tlie-
monastery has been burnt down several times, and was rebuilt in its
present form after the last lire iu 1676. There is nothing striking about
its architecture. Gentlemen may lodge in the monastery for two days,
sharing the food of the monks (no meat; hotel at St. Pierre, see below). Visi-
tors are only admitted at certain hours , 8-10 a. m. and 1-4 p. m. Ladies
are not admitted , but may lodge in a de'pendance belonging to the mo-
nastery, kept by nuns. Everything is of the utmost simplicity in the
monastery. The chapter-house, the chief object of interest, contains the
portraits of the generals of the order, some copies of the Life of St. Bruno
by Lesueur , and his statue by Foyatier. The cloister is 705 ft. long and
75 ft. wide. There is also a handsome library. Those who wish it may
be present at the midnight office which lasts until 2 o'clock. This is
chiefly remarkable for its gloom, the chapel being dimly lit and the ser-
vice consisting of psalms recited in monotone. Certain of the Cartlmsia'ns
are called 'fathers', the rest 'brothers'. They all wear white habits except
the 'brothers' who have not yet taken vows ; these dress in brown on
week days. The 'fathers', who are priests, live in cells and employ their
time in prayer, study, or manual labour. They even take their meals iu
these cells, except on Sundays and feast-days, when they eat together.
Otherwise they never quit their cells except for the daily and nightly
services, and once a week to take a walk in the 'De'sert'. They are also
vowed to silence which they break only at church and while walking, if
so allowed by their superior. The 'brothers' perform the household duties
and receive strangers. It is well known that the Carthusians make their
much esteemed liqueurs ('Chartreuse') from aromatic plants which are-
found on these mo\mtains. They also make a vegetable elixir which is
good for stomachic disorders , a plaister used for the same purpose and
also for lung diseases, a mineral salve called 'boule d'acier' for healing
wounds, and lastly a remedy for toothache. The distilleries are at Four-
voirie (p. 325). These manufactures produce a large revenue, amounting,
it is said, to 20,000?. a year, ehietly spent on charitable objects.
About 1/2 hr. to the !N. (road) is Notre- Dame -de- CasaUbtis ('of the
huts'), a chapel built on the site of the first convent, which was destroyed'
by an avalanche in 1132. A little farther on is the Chapel of St. Bruno.^
rebuilt in the 17th cent., and several times restored, j
From the Grande Chartreuse the ascent and descent of the Grand-
Som takes 51/2 hrs. The path is so clearly indicated by guide-boards
that a guide (3fr.) may be dispensed with. A mule (5 fr.) may he taken
as far as the Col de liovinant, 1 hr. below the summit. Thence the ascent
is fatiguing but not dangerous. An early start should be made. — The
Grand-Som (6670 ft.) ranks third amongst the peaks of the Grande Char-
treuse range, but it is little lower than the two highest peaks, the Dent
de Crolles (6780 ft.), to the S.K., and the Pic de Chamechaude (6845 ft.). A.s
both of these are some way off, the view from the Grand-Som is very
extensive: to the E. are the Alps of Savoy including Mont Blanc; to tlie
S.E. the Sept-Laux, the Belledonne, Taillefer, and Vercors ranges ; to tin-
N. the Lac de Bourget and tlie Jura; Lyons and the plains of the Lyon-
nais lie to the N.W. ; and to the W. are tVie Forez and Ardeche mountains.
In returning via Le Sappey, carriages turn to the left at the (IV4 hr.)
Pont St. Pierre (p. 325), and pass near the Cottrrerie , which pedestrians
reach direct in V2 !•'■• by -i good path. The Courrerie, now a hospital,
was formerly the residence of the 'Dom Courrier', the estate-agent of the
monastery. Fine view of the Desert. About 1/0 hr. farther we traverse
the Porte de VEncloi:, by a bridge between two crags situated close to each
other and nearly 300 ft! high. To the left, a little farther on, is Si. Pxerre-
de-Chartreuse (2785 ft.; *Hotel Victoria-, guide), where touri.sts may lodge
instead of in the monastery, and whence they make excursions. Beyond
the Orand-Logis ^ where muleteers used to put up, we cross the Col de
/'or<e (4440 ft.), whence we descend between the Chamechaude (6845 ft.;
see above), on the left, and the Pin(a (5h35 ft.), on tlie right, to ie Sappey
(3280 ft.; Inn), in the valley of the Vence, and farther on to the Col d«
fioni Grenoble. SASSENAGE. IV. Route 49. 327
Vettce, between the St. Eynard (p. 325), on the left, and the Kachais (p. 324),
on the right. The most interesting part of (his route begins beyond the
latter col, where we obtain a magnificent *View of the valleys of the
Isere and the Drac and the mountains lieyond , forming a great part of
Haut-Dauphine. We go through Corenc, pass near MoHtjieury (p. 325), and
enter the valley at La Tranche, near Grenoble.
To Sassenage and the Gorges du Furon, 3-4 hrs. or l/o day according
to the extent to which the latter is explored. An omnibus leaves the Place
Grenette Cat 9, 11, 2, and 5; 40 c.) for c3i/.2 M.) Sassenage. Keyond that, or
for tlie return, use can he made of the conveyances from Villard-de-Lans
and Pont-en-Royans which pass through Sassenage (see below). We leave
Grenoble by the Cours Berriat, which passes near the station, crosses the
Drac (I1/4M.: omnibus 10 c), and turns to the right. Pedestrians turn
to the left beyond the bridge and skirt (i/4hr.), on the right, a pri-
vate estate tnot open to the public) in which are some curious rocks.
Beyond some quarries which yield the excellent Sassenage stone we reach
ti/2 hr.) Fontaine, about II/4 31. by road from Sassenage (HOtel des Cuves),
a considerable village, in a beautiful spot at the toot of an abrupt moun-
tain. It possesses a 17th cent, chateau, rich in works of art, among which
is Murillo's Evangelists. — The Gorges du Furon, a ravine between sheer
rocks, with several waterfalls, are vi.^ited from Sassenage. To explore
the Grottoes, with their excavations called cures (vats), a guide (Vial)
and light (2 fr. by taritV) are necessary. They are inaccessible when the
river is high. — The Furon also, Iiigher up. tliread.s the wild ravines known
as the Passage des Paries d" Engins and the Gorges d' Engins. The former
is a short distance from Sassenage either by a path on the left bank of
the stream or t>y the Villard-de-Lans road, wliicli makes a long detour to
the N., diverging to tlie left from the main road. The Gorges d'Engins
are beyond Engins , 8 M. by road from Sassenage (p. 328). For Villard-
ile-Lans, 4-5 M. beyond the Gorges, see p. 328.
To THE Chateau db Beauregard, the Tour Sans-Venin, akd the Mou-
CHEROTTi;, 10-12 hrs., or if we turn at the Tour Sans-Venin, 5-6 hrs., a
charming excursion easily combined with the preceding. A public con-
veyance plies to Seyssinet (50 c.) from No. 30 Rue du Lyce'e; or a carriage
may be liired to Beauregard or even St. Nizier, which shortens the ex-
pedition and renders it very easy. — We take the second road from
Sassenage as far as the private estate , mentioned above, where turning
to the left and, 25 min. farther, to the right, we reach in lOmin. more
the pretty village of Seyssinet. A picturesque rtiad ascends lience in zig-
zags to (15-20 min.) the Chateau de Beauregard (1360 ft.), of the I8th cent.,
which occupies perhaps the finest site in the neighbourhood of Grenoble,
l.ess than 10 min. from there, on the right of the road, is a picturesque
ravine called the Desert (usually closed). The *Tour Sans-Venin (2460 ft.),
on an isolated hill beyond the chateau, is the relic of a medieeval fortress
and from it there is a wide panorama including Mont Blanc. The ascent
is somewhat fatiguing and takes 1/2-^/4 hr. according as we make for it
direct or follow tlie road. There is an Inn close by, and not far oft' is
Pariset, about 6 31. from Grenoble.
The *]lIoucherotte (6255 ft.), the fine mountain to the S., is usually
ascended from this side. We may either drive to >S(. Mzier (Inn), on the
S.W., or take a direct cross-road (more interesting), requiring 13/4 hr.,
and passing the foot of the Trois-Piicelles, a group of sheer rocks, i/.j hr.
from St. Nizier. From St. Nizier the ascent proper (easiest from this point)
takes about 2 hrs., by a path marked with stakes, and passing via the
ti/a hr.) Alaison /iari.c, a meadow, and (I/2 lir.) a cheminee with steps,
1 hr. below the summit The view from the top is very fine.
To THE Gorges d'Engins and the Gorges de la Bourne. To Villard-
de-Lans, 171/2 31.; omnibus daily at 6 a. m. (fares 2, 21/2*''.); thence to
(15 M.) Pont-en-Rayans, at the lower end of tlie tiorges de la Bourne, and
(7 JI. more) the station of -S<. Ililaire-St. Nazaire or of La Sine (p. 328),
on the Grenoble and Valence line, public conveyance daily about 2 p. m.,
but a seat can only be ensured by booking through from Grenohle. Previous
328 IV. Route 49. PONT-EN-ROYANS.
enquiry is desirable. — The Gorges de la Bourne are specially worth visiting
(also from Pont-en-Royans, but longer), and the walk throughthem (41/4 hrs,)
is recommended. — To (3l/o M.) Sassenage, see p. 327. Farther on we
reach the Passage ties Portes-d'Engins, a defile in which the Furon forms
a cascade above the gorges mentioned on p. 327. — About 3 M. beyond
(81/2 M.) Engins (Inn) the road traverses the picturesque Gorges d'Engins,
a ravine about 11/4 M. long, inferior, however, to the Gorges de la Hourne.
— 13 m. Jaume^ an inn at a fork of the road near Lans, to the left. —
17 M. Villard - de - lans (3410 ft.; * Hotel Imbert; guide, Marchand) is the
usual starting-point for the ascent of the MoucheroUe (7510 ft. ; 31/0-4 hrs. ;
guide 8 fr.), the chief summit of the Montagnes de Lans. — About 21/4 M.
beyond Villard , we reach the *Gorges de la Bourne, a narrow rocky
ravine of great beauty, through which the Bourne dashes. The road,
sometimes high above the torrent, is in places hewn out of the rock, in
others supported on projecting galleries , and in others carried through
tunnels and over bridges. A i-oad, to the left, before the Pont de Goule-
Noire, the second bridge, leads to (9 M.) the Grands-Goulets (see below),
via (5 M.) St. Julien-en- Vercors (Inn) and (7 M.) Si. Afartin-en-Vercors
(Inn), and rejoins the Pont-en-Koyans road, 81/2 M. from that town. —
32 M. (from Grenoble) Pont-en-Koyans (980 ft. ; H6tel Bonnard), a pictures-
quely situated little town, at the confluence of the Bourne and the Ver-
naison, dominated by a ruined chateau. In the *ValUe de la Vernaison,
farther up the stream, are the (II/4M.) "Peiits-Goulets and the (4M.) *GraHds-
Goulets., gorges vying in picturesque wildness with those of the Bourne.
From Grenoble to the Convent of Chalais and the Grande- Aiguille, see
p. 320. In addition to the railway , an omnibus plies from the Place
Grenette to Voreppe (60 c), an interesting excursion.
From Grenoble to Cliamhiry., Uriage, Allevard, etc., see R. 50. ; to Brian^
con, etc. R. 51 ; to Blarseilles, R. 63.
From Grenodle to Valence (lower vallev of the Isere) , 6II/2 M.,
in 23/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 30, 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 70). The best views are on
the left. As far as (12 M.) Moirans we follow the Lyons line (see p. 319).
The Valence line there turns to the left and descends the right bank of
the Isere, sometimes at a great height above the river. — I61/2 BI. TuUins
(Claret; Cortey). a manufacturing town of 4590inhab., with a small bath-
establishment (.59° Fahr.). — 20 M. PoMnas; 23 M. V Albenc ; 251/2 M. Yinay.
? small town with a pretty modern chateau, on a hill to the right. About
3 M. to the N.W. is the pilgrim -resort of Notre-Dame-de-V Osier , on an
eminence from which there is a very beautiful view. — The valley now
contracts and we pass through a short tunnel.
311/2 JI. St. Karcellin (Hot. dii Petit-Paris fde la Paste), a~small walled
town, the church of which has a Romanesque steeple. About 7i/o M. to the
N.W. is St. Antoine (diligence twice daily), with the ancient abbey from
which .sprang the order of the Hospitallers of St. Anthony or the Antonins.
The ^Church is a magnificent building of the 13-14th cent., the 'portal of
which has some exquisite carving. In the interior the galleries in the nave,
the choir-stalls, and the high altar, with the relics of St. Anthony are
noteworthy. The .sacristy contains several reliquaries. A diligence plies
twice a day from St. Marcellin to (lOl/o M.) Pont-en-Royans (see above),
passing (1 hr.) the ruins of Btauvoir Castle, one of the "favourite seats of
the Dauphins, picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Isere.
34 M. La SOne, beyond which we keep close to the Isere. — 381/2 M. St.
Hilaire-St. Xazaire. A diligence (75 c.) plies hence thrice a day to (7M.)
Pont-eu-Royans (see above) , crossing the Isere and passing (ii/4 M.) St.
Nazaire, with silk-factories. — Farther on appear the rocks of the Gorges
of the Bourne and the Vernaison (see above).
441/2 M. St. Laitier, after which we quit the river. 45 M. St. Paul-IH-
Ilomans.
49 BI. Bomans (Hot. de V Europe), a town of 14,733 inhab., is well placed
on the right bank of the Isere. It dates from the 9th cent, when it grew
up around an abbey of which the Church of St. Barnard is the only part
GONCELIN. IV. Route 50. -Ud
left. This is a fine building with Romanescme portal, steeple, and nave,
and a Gothic choir.
The railway farther on cro.sses the Isere which it leaves on the left.
54 M. Alixah. Beyond (561/.2 M.) St. Afarcel-lh- Valence we descend into
the Rhone valley and pass through a tunnel. — 61l/._. M. Valence (p. 410).
50. From Grenoble to Chambery. Uriage, AUevard
and their environs.
a. From Grenoble to Chamb6ry.
39 M. Railway in 2-3 hr.-;. (lares 7 fr. 75, oYr.SO, 4 fr. 25 c). The best
views are on the left.
Orenoble , see p. 320. This line ascends the part of the Isere
valley known as the Gre'sivaudan Valley ('Gratianopolitanus pagus'),
which is very beautiful. It skirts Grenoble at some distance to the
S. of the town.
3^/4 M. Gieres-Uriaqe. Diligence to Uriage, p. 330. Beyond a
short tunnel we reach the Isere which follows a very devious course.
— 7 M. Dontene , an industrial town with the interesting ruins of
an abbey of the 11th century.
About 33/4 M. to the S. E. is Revel (Inn and guides), from which
the ascent of the Croix de Belledonne (p. 347) may be made. This is a hue
excursion and easy with a guide (S fr.), but requires 6-7 hrs. for the ascent
alone. It is advisable to sleep at the chalet -hotel of La Pra (p. 332).
The route passes the farms of (l.hr.) Freydieres and the (1 hr.) Pres Rimond,
then the foot of the I'etite and Grande - Lance de Domene (9295 ft.) and
the (1 hr.) two Crozet Lakes ^ where the Grande-Lance rises on the left
and the Rocher-Fendu or Colon (11,130 ft.) on the right. Thence it is 8/4 hr.
to the Col de la Pra (about 6560 ft.), beyond which we reach the (1 hr.)
Dom^non Lakes^ often frozen , and tlie snow region between the Grande-
Lance, on the left, and the Grande- Voudine (9150 ft.), on the right. Almost
straight ahead are the peaks of Belledonne, but it takes about 2 hrs. more
to reach the Croix. At the refuge tlie paths from Uriage (p. 332) and
Allemont (p. 346) converge; the descent may be made to either place.
10 M. Lancey, a hamlet I'/j hr. from La Couibe-de-TAincey
(no inn ; guide), from which may also be made the ascent to the Croix
de Belledonne (see above) in 7 hrs. (the lievel route is joined at Pr^s
R^mond). — 12'/2 M. Brignoud. On the left of the valley is the
Dent de Crolles, behind which is the Grande Chartreuse (p. 325). —
16 M. Tencin, on the right, with an 18th cent, chateau which has
superseded that of the famous Mme. de Tencin (1681-1749), tlie
mother of D'Alembert.
From Tencin a road runs to (4 M.) Theys (Hot. Payerne ; guides), a
little town whence we take 81/2 hrs. to reach the Sept-Laux (p. 333), via
(3 hrs.) Le Merdaret (6035 ft.), a kind of pass commanding a fine view :
thence via the (2 hrs.) Chalet de Gleyzin , where the road from Allevard
is joined (see p. 333).
I8V2 M. Goncelin (Hot. Bayard), a small town connected by dili-
gence with (6 M.) Allevard (p. 332) and (2 M.) Le Touvet (25 c). a
considerable village on the other side of the valley, beyond which is
the Ha^d de Seidl or Aiit du Scieu range of mountains. — 21 Va M.
Le Cheylas-la-Bussiere, beyond which, on the right, are the ruins
of the Chateau Bayard, the birthplace (1476) of the 'knight
?,m 1 V. Route 50. URIAGE.
without fear and without reproach' (p. 321). Farther on, to the left,
is Fort Barraux , which commands the valley of the Isere and was
a frontier stronghold previous to the annexation of Savoy. Charles
Emmanuel, Duke of Savoy, built it, as an act of bravado, under the
very eyes of Lesdiguieres (p. 321) , who allowed the work to go on
but seized it as soon as it was finished and armed, in 1598.
26^/2 M. Pontcharra-sur-Breda, connected by a pretty road with
(7*/2 M.) Allevard (p. 332) and by diligence with (I M.) Barraux
and (41/2 M.) C'hapareillan, a place of 2270 inhabitants.
From Chapareillan the ascent of the Granier (6360 I't.), the N. end of
the Grande Chartreuse range,maybemade in 4-41/2 hrs. (there and back 7 hrsj
with a guide. It is worth doing on account of the grand view, especially
to the E. over the Savoy Alps. The mountain is of limestone and partly
wooded, and a little below the summit is a crevassed plateau ('lapiaz'),
which is difficult and in places dangerous. A portion of this mountain
slipped down in 1248 and buried a town and several villages, with
5000 people.
We presently cross the Br^da. On the W. is the Granier and
on the N. the Dent du Nivolet, with its cross (p. 297). — 28V2 M.
Ste. Helene-du-Lac. The village, on the shore of a large lake, is
2 M. to the right. — Beyond this station the Isere is crossed and from
the bridge we get a good view of the valley. — 30'/2 M. Monlmelian,
on the Turin line, which we now follow to the N.W. — SS'/^ M.
Chignin-les- Marches. We have a parting view of the Granier on the
left and arrive at (39 M.) Chamhery (p. 296).
b. Uriage and its Environs.
Approaches. Railway (Grenoble and Chambe'ry line) to (4 M.)
(iiires-Vriage (p. 329) and thence by Omjjibis, during the season, to(4M. ;
75 c.) Uriage in 3/^ hr., along a line wooded ravine. — Road. By Omnibus,
direct from Grenoble, in summer, eight times a day in II/2 hr. (fares 1 fr.,
75c. from the Place Grenette, ll/a^ 1 fr. from the station), following the
same route from Gieres.
Hotels. Hot. du Cekcle ; Grand-Hotel; Ancien-Hotel : Ancieks Bains;
Hot. des Bains, under the same management as the Bath Kstab., R. 1-
10 fr. ; Hot. du Rocher, de Paris, Chabert, Raymond, also well situated;
Hot. du Midi; du Nord; du Globe; des Thermes; de l'Europe. — Lodgings
and Houses to let.
Baths. 11/4-21/2 fr. according to season and hour.
Mineral Water, 6 fr. for the season; 80 c. for 10 glasses.
Cercle-Casino, adm. 3 fr. ; 8 days, 15 fr. for men, 10 fr. for ladies; per
month 25 tr. aud 15 fr.
Guides. Fr. and Bd. Boiijartl, Eiig. Olivier; 8 fr. per day. — Carriages,
Horses, and Donkeys according to tarifl".
Uriage {1360 ft.) , a small place famous for its Baths, is situated
ill a pretty dale shut in by Avooded heights. It has an old Chateau
and attractive country-houses. The Baths are supplied by an abun-
dant spring containing chloride of sodium and sulphur, more
strongly impregnated but of a lower temperature (,81° Fahr.) than
the springs at Aix-la-Chapelle (131° Fahr.). That it was used by
the Romans is proved by the extant remains of ancient baths. The
Uriage water is tonic and depuratory ; it especially suits delicate
. URIAGE. IV. Route bO. 331
persons and is much employed for skin diseases. The Establish-
ment properly so called is unpretentious but well managed ; it con-
tains 142 bath and douche rooms. It is backed by the castle hill
and in front of it are the hotels mentioned above, while at the side
is a wide promenade somewhat wanting in shade. At the entrance
to the street which skirts the promenade is a Fountain with a flue
bas-relief by Sappey. The Chapel ofUriage, a very unpretending
structure, a little farther on next the Hotel du Rocher, contains 16
pictures by old masters. These belong to M. de St. Ferriol (see
below) and include : P. Vero7iese , Appearance of the Virgin to two
recluses ; Lor. Lotto, Jesus surrounded by the Apostles and blessing
a young girl; Carlo Dolci , Descent from the Cross; all three on
the high altar. There is also a line altar-screen in carved wood.
Walks. \YitLiu easy distance of Uriage many delightful spots tempt
the pedestrian, but the first visit should be made to the tV2 S') Chateau
d'TTriage, belonging to Mens, de St. Ferriol, the owner of the Baths,
which is open to the public on Tues. and Frid. from 2-5. It dates from
the 13-16th cent, but is more noticeable for its position than its architec-
ture. Its main attraction, however, is the collection it contains of Egyp-
tian, Greek, Roman, and Mediseval antiquities, medals , paintings by old
masters, tapestry, and natural history specimens.
Walks of 1^/.2-^tiTs. there and back may also be made to (51/2 M.)
the Valley of Vaultiavet/s, in the direction of Vizille (p. 334); the *ifontagne
lies Quatre-Seigneiirs (3095 ft.; new fort) via Villeneure (carriage-road); the
Hill of Bellevue or Signal de Montchaboud (2410 ft.); the Combloup (3260ft.).
Excursions. — To the Chartreuse de Prkmol, 31/o-4 hrs., there and
back, by a bridle-path from which there are verv beautiful views. The
way leads via (I/4 hr.) St. Georges to the S.W.; (20"min.) Belmont, (1/2 hr.)
LeGas, the (20min.) Croix de Prdmol (Sihimt 26(X) ft.), and then through a
wood on quitting which (I/2 hr.) we reach the Chartreuse de Fr^mol, which
has been in ruins since the Revolution and of which little is left. Its
charm is the delightful solitude in which it stands. Refreshments may be
had from the keeper. — Ascent of the Croi.x de Chamrousse , see below.
To THE OuRsiiiRE WATERFALL, 6-7 hrs. there and back, by a bridle-
path, in parts very interesting, via (i/o hr.) St. Martin-d'' Uriage , beyond
the chateau, Lef JJennets. (40 min.) La OrivoKe and the (35 min.) Col de
Replat (35.55 ft.). Traversing then a wood we turn (i/o hr.) to the left,
and in 1 hr. more reach the Oursidre Waterfall, a copious fall about 325 ft.
high but in several leaps. It is well set amid rocks and foliage. There
is a small refreshment- hut. — Thence to the Croix de Chamrousse , see
below.
To THE Croix de Chamrousse, an interesting day's excursion, 5-6 hrs.
to the cross (guide , 6 fr.). There is a choice of routes. The chief one,
practicable for mules, leads via the Chartreuse de Primol (see above)
and the pastures of (2 hrs. more) the Hoche Beranger (6070 ft.; Inn) whence
it is U/.^ hr. to the Croix (see below). — -Another route, a little longer
and not so good, passes the Oursiere Waterfall (see above), the (1 hr.)
chalet ot lichaillon (6020 ft.), the four Lacs Robert (50 min.). which once
were a single sheet of water, and the (I/2 hr.) Col du Petit ■ Jnfernet
(7120 ft.) which is I/4 lir. short of the Croix (see below). — The shortest
way of all (4-41/4 hrs. to the top) leads via the Recoin, a mass of rock 50 min.
below the summit. This route is only fit for pedestrians and is hard to
find. — The summit of *Chamrousae (74(D0 ft.), surmounted by a large cross,
afl'ords a very wide panorama, only slightly interrupted on the N.E. by
the Croix de Belledonne (see below).
To the Croix de Bellkdokne, H/o day, or 1 day from the chalet-
hotel of La Pra (p. 332) ; guide necess'arv. We follow the route to the
332 IV. Koute 50. ALLEVARD.
(3-31/2 Urs.) Oursiere Water/all (see above). Thenee we ascend the left
bank of the Doine'non torrent to (II/2 hr.) the new Chalet-UOtel de la Pi a
(7050 ft.), an e.xcellent starting-point for this excursion. Thence it i.s
1/4 hr. to the Col de la Pra where tlie Revel route (p. 329) is joined.
c. AUevard and its Environs.
Approach. Railway (Grenoble and Chambery line) to (ioncelin (p. 329)
and thence by Omnibus (U/a fr.) to (6 31.) AUevard in li/o hr. — The road
from Goneelin makes a long ascent to the N.E. with a good view of the
Isere valley, then turning to the K. descends between wooded mountains
the left bank of the deep ravine of the Fay. On the opposite side is
seen the little mineral railway which serves the works mentioned below,
Beyond (21/3 M.) Moretel and (2 M.) St. Pierre-cfAllerard, we see on the
right an iron mine, belonging to the Creusot works (p. 183).
Hotels. De.s Kains, at the Estab. ; du Louvre et de l\ Planta., at
the entrance of the town; du Parc , Very, du Commerce, de France,
Du Luxembourg, du Chalet, near the Estab., etc. — JIany Furnished
Houses.
Baths, 70 c.-l fr. 25 c. — Douches, 1 fr. 5-2 fr. 50 c. — JIineral Water.
.Subscribers, 15 fr.
Casino. .Subscription, men 25 fr. ; ladies 20 fr.
Guides, Jos. .Baroj (father and son), Fran^. David, Jos. Chavot, of AUe-
vard; Fran^. Barrot^ of Curtillard (p. 333); Jean Reii , Jean and Siraphin
liaroz, Ani. Mounier, of La Ferriere (p. 333); Ach. Biol, of Piusot (p. 333).
Horses and Donkeys according to tariff; no tariff' for carriages.
AUevard (1560 ft.), a town of 3085 inhab., on the left bank of
the Breda, in one of the most delightful of the Dauphin^ valleys,
possesses a much-freqtiented and well-managed though small Ther-
mal Establishment. The sulphur spring (61° Fahr.) which feeds it
is used for baths and drinking but especially for inhaling in diseases
of the respiratory organs, including consumption. Adjoining the
establishment is a pretty park.
The town itself is badly built and has less the air of a health-
resort than of a manufacturing place, possessing indeed an iron-
work where the raw material from the neighbouring mines is con-
verted into iron and steel of good quality. On the right bank of the
Breda is an 18th cent. Chateau, surrounded by a fine park. The
church is a tasteful modern Gothic building.
Walks, indicated by direction-notices. — To the (I/4 hr.) Bout -du- Monde,
the upper end of the gorge of the Bre'da, a little above the iron-works
(I/2 fr. toll). This is a kind of 'cirque', surrounded by rocks and en-
livened by a waterfall. — To the W. to (I/4 hr.) La Basiie, a ruined me-
diieval castle, cunimanding a line view. — To the (20 min.) Tour du Treuil,
also dating from the Middle Ages, and commanding a good view. —
Another good point of view is (II/2 hr.) La Taillat (4410 ft.), to the S.
with the chief iron-mines. — The view from Brame-Farine (3950 ft.), the
mountain separating the valley of AUevard from the valley of Gresi-
vaudan. is somewhat hindered by trees. We proceed to the W. to (1-
11,2 l»r.) Le Crozet (Hotel) and thence in i»/4-2 hrs. to the summit. The
<lescent to Le Crozet may be made by sledge.
Excursions. To the Cmaktreuse »b St. Hugon, to the N.E. , 3 hrs.
by road. 2l/o hrs. by bridle-path, 1/0 day there and back. Horse 8, don-
key 5, attendant ll/o fr. Tlie carriage-road goes via (I1/4 hr.) La Chapelle-du-
Jiard and (3/^ hr.) the Pont de Bens; the bridle-path via (1 hr. 20 min.) Afont-
(jarin , whence tliere is a good view , and (I/2 hr.) Beauvoir. The two
roads unite before (21/2 or 2 hrs.) the Pont du Diable, an old bridge more
than 260 ft. above the bed of the Bens. In 1/2 hr. more we reach tlie.
SEPT-LAUX. / V. Konte f>0. 333
Chartreuse de St. Hugon (2715 ft.: Inu) . I'ounded lower down in 1175
and rebuilt on its present site in l675. The buildings were of consider-
able extent, but little of them is now left. About 1/4 hr. from here
are some old iron-works, in a picturesque spot near a ruined bridge.
To THE Sept-L.vi'.x , to the S. , 7-71/2 hrs. , a long day there and
[(uck ; horse 12, donkey 7. attendant 21 /.i, guide 10 fr. A carriage may
be taken as far as C'urtillard (see below). On foot, we take I1/4 hr. by the
lift bank or II/2 hr. by the right bank of the Bre'da to reach Pinsot (guide,
p. 332), which "has a good view. Thence we follow the right bank to
l50min.) La Ferriere (2980ft.; Hotel, Ramus; guides, p. 332), and (l/o hr.
more) Curtillard ('3250 ft. : H6i. de Lains)^ where there is a small mineral water
establishment. Farther on the valley of the Bre'da is terminated by lofty
mountains, among which are the, Belle-Etoile (8315ft.) opposite, and the
Mucillon (7710 ft.) and the Rocher-Badon (9.570 ft.), to the left. The fine
Cascade du Fond-de-France is in sight and may be reached by a footpath
from Curtillard in 1/2 hr. — We now have li/o hr. of stiff ascent to the
Chalet de Gleyzin (5280"ft.), where we join the route from Theys via Le Mer-
daret (p. 329). Thence it is II/4 hr. to the Lac Noii\ and leaving the Lac
Carri on the right wo pass (25 niin.) the Lac de la Motte, Lac Cotepen (near
the Lac Blanc)^ and (i/o hr.) the Lac du Cos or du Col ( 7160 ft.) , where there
are a fisherman's hut and a. Club Hut. This upland valley is called Sept-Laux
from the seven lakes in sight , but it has in reality eleven lakes . the
others being higher up. It is moreover a perfect chaos of rocks, whence
its other name , Montagues Abimees. — The highest summit overlooking
the lakes is the Rocher-Blanc or Pic de la Pyramide (9615 ft.; fine view),
to the E. of the Lac Blanc from which it may be ascended in 21/2 iirs. —
From the Club Hut we may reach Allemont in 6 hrs. (with guide), via (1 hr.)
the Col de V Homme, which "commands a fine view of the GrandesRousses and
the mountains of the Gresivaudan, the Cheminee du Diable, a difficult
couloir, and (2 hrs.) Le Rivier-d\Ulemont (Inn), a hamlet in the Combe
d'Olle^ at the lower end of which is Allemont (6 M., p. 34H).
To THE Pvy-Gris, to the S.E. , 7-8 hrs. , a long day there and back.
This ascent is difficult by the old route via Pinsot and the Combe de
(lleyzin , especially between the Col de Puy-Gris (about 9180 ft.) and the
(I hr.) summit; via Curtillard and the Combe de Valloire it is easy. Guide
15 fr. by the former route, less by the second. By the latter we ascend
the Combe de Valloire from Curtillard (see above) to (II/2 hr.) the chalets
of the Petite -Valloire (about ,5180 ft.) and of the (3/4 lir) Orande- Valloire
((K)20ft.). the little Lac Blanc, and to the left, the (II/4 hr.) Lac ^'o^r
(about 7540 ft.) and (V2 Iir-) '^-cc dlace (8035 ft.), in sight of the sharply
defined summit of the "Puy-Gris, to the right of the Combe. Thence we
proceed to the N. E. to the (1 hr.) Col de Comberousse or Col du Lac-GlacHsiho\it
9120 ft.), and the (V4 lir.) '"^elle du Puy-Gris, pass on the S. slope over
the Glacier de CUraus, skirt the base of the clitV to a kind of couloir
(easy), and finally ascend by the arete to (15-20 min.) the top. The Puy-
Gris (9710 ft.) is the highest summit in the neigbourhood, and commands
a splendid 'Panorama, extending on the N. E. and E. to Mont Blanc
and the great peaks of the Tarentaise ; on the 8. and S.E. to the peaks
of Haut-Dauphine' ; on the N. W. to the Chartreuse range, etc.
To THE Gkand-Charniei! , to the E. , 6 hrs. , a wliole day there and
back; horse to the Petit-Charuier 10, donkey 7, attendant 2 fr. We
fi)llow the Bre'da valley as far as (40 min.) Panissiire: then to the E. by
the valley of the Veyton, which must not be crossed at the first bridge
(I/4 hr. : road to Pinsot; see above), but thrice farther on. In 21/4 hrs.
from Allevard we reach the Chalet de la Chevrette (3650 ft.), where we
leave on the right a path leading to (6I/4 hrs.) La Chambre (p. 313) via
(21/4 hrs.) the Col de Merlet (7325 ft.). f)ur route ascends in 1^/4 hr. to the
Col de Plagnes, at the foot of the Petit-Charnier (6970 It.), whence 2 hrs.
of toilsome climbing bring us to the summit of the Grand-Charnier (8410 ft.),
one of the chief mountains in the range wliicli divides the Isere valley
from that of the Arc. The view from ttie top is very extensive.
334
51. From Grenoble to Brian9on.
a. By Boad.
Comp. the Map, p. 344.
711/2 M. This interesting route is unfortunately somewhat inconvenient
tor tourists, as at present the diligence from Grenoble to (IShrs.) Brianjou
traverses the most interesting part by night, and the omnibus whicli plied
in summer from Bourg- d'Oisans to La Grave has ceased to run. — The
diligence starts from Xo. 10, Place Grenette , in Grenoble, between 11.30
and midday, reaches Boiirg-dOisans (halt of 1 hr.) at 6p.m., La Grave
about midnight, ia?<<a?'e« bet ween 3 and 4a.m., and Brianqon about 6a.m.
The return-journey is more convenient, as the diligence leaves Brian(;ou
at 11a.m., reaches Lautaret about 2 p.m., ia ffrare about 4 p. m., Bourg-
d'Oisans (2 hrs. halt) between S.30 and 9 p. m. , and Grenoble between
4 and 5 a.m. Fare from Grenoble to Bourg-d'Oisans 5, to Brianjon 14 fr.
— Another vehicle also plies to Bourg-d'Oisans , leaving Grenoble at 8.30
p.m., and returning at 1.30 p.m. — To Bourg-d'Uisans by railway and
diligence via Vizille, see p. 337. — The single traveller, unless he is will-
ing to hire a carriage from Bourg-d'Oisans to La Grave, is advised to take
the diligence in summer to Le Freney , 71/2 M. beyond Bourg-d'Oisans.
spend the night there, and walk or drive next morning to (8I/2M.) La
Grave and (7i/oM., 51/oM. by .short-cuts) Lautaret, where he may rejoin
the diligence
Grenoble, see p. 320. — The road and railway ascend the valley
of the Drac. 5 M. Pont- de,- C^ nix, a hamlet owing its name to a
curious 17th cent, bridge across the Drac. We follow for a short
distance the left bank of the stream, which is subject to disastrous
inundations. — 8V2M. Station de Vizille (p. 337) , near the con-
fluence of the Drac and the Eomanche. We ascend the valley of the
latter , injured by floods in 1888. and traverse a picturesque defile.
IOV2M. Vizille (Hotel du Pare, near the chateau), an ill-built
industrial town with 4310inhab. , on the Romanche , is the Roman
Vigilia, an important station on tlie military road between Italy anil
Vienne. The large Chateau {aAiw. Tues., Thurs., Sat.), superseding
one belonging to the Daupliins, was built in the 17th cent, by I.es-
diguieres (p. 321 ), passed into the possession of the families of Cre-
quy and Villeroy , who enlarged it in the 18th cent. , and has been
rebuilt after two conflagrations in the present century. In 1788 the
deputies of Dauphin<! met here, ami heralded the Revolution by re-
pudiating all taxes not voted by the States-General. A Monument
du Centenaire , with a statue of Liberty by Ding, in front of the
castle, commemorates this event. Above the main portal of the castle
is an equestrian statue of Lesdiguieres. by J. Richier. The fine park
is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. ; other days Va fr- — I>ili-
gence to the railway, see p. 337.
We next pass apaper-mill. — IIV2M. Le Peacje. — 15 M. L'Jle-
de- Sechilienne (Hotel du Petit - Versailles) contains an ancient
castle.
The Taillefer (9.38.') ft.), to the S.E., may be climbed hence in 71/3 brs.,
there and back lOi/o hrs., with guide (J. B. Raffln of Sechilienne; 8 fr.).
There is a choice of routes of which the shortest leads via (20min.) <S7.
Barthilemy-de-tiichilienne, (V4hr.) Le Desert (hamlet), (8/4 l>r.) Belle-Lauze,
some woods and meadows, the (1 hr.) C6te des Sallii-res , the old Brovffer
BOURG-D'OISANS. / V. lionte 51. 335
Mine (silver-lcadj and the ArHe de Brotiffier. We leave on the right, after
passing' Belle-Lauze, the hamlet of La Aforte (de'tour of V2-V4 hr.), where
there is an inn as well as a chalet of the Societe des Touristes du
Dauphine. From there the ascent of the mountain takes hrs. The view
from the summit is very fine and includes, besides the great peaks of this
part of Dauphine', the mountains of Savoy as far as Mont Blanc. Of the
Dauphine summits we note (N.) Chamrousse, (S.E.) Belledonne, the Sept-
Laux 3Its. , Grandes Rousses , Aiguilles d'Arves, Aiguille de Goleon. A
ridge connects the Taillefer with the Pyramide, on the N.E., nearly as
high. — We may descend on the E. to Bourg-d'Oisans, via Oiilles and /.a
Pauie (see map and below).
The road now enters the Gorge de Liiet, flanked by wooded moun-
tains, and crosses the Romanche. — We pass (20*/2M.) Kioupe'roiix,
with a paper-mill, and several other hamlets. — At (22'/2 M.) Livet,
at the foot of the Grand-Galbert (8415 ft.), we recross the Romanche.
The gorge becomes wilder. On the left a destructive torrent descends
from i\\^. Petite -Voudcne, and another . no less dangerous . on the
right, from the Infernet or Cornillon (8180 ft.). On emerging from
the gorge we obtain a fine view of the Combe d'OUe, a valley lying
between the heights of Belledonne (on the left) and Grandes-Rousses
(on the right) , and of the huge glaciers of the latter . above which
rises the Etendard (p. 346). We again cross the stream, with a water-
fall on the left.
26 M. Les Sables (Inn) , a hamlet from which a carriage- road
leads N., in about 1 hr., to AUemont. and ',2hr. farther on to Oz.
both of which are starting-points for exploring the Belledonne and
Grandes-Rousses ranges; see p. 346. — 28'/., M. La Paute, a hamlet
to the right, on the rocky slope of the Taillefer and at the entrain- e
of the Lignare valley. The mountain may be ascended from this
side also, best via Oulles (4500 ft ; about 2 hrs.).
3OV2 M. Le Bourg - d'Oisans (2390 ft.: HOtel de Milaii : de
France), a small town of 2550 inhab., is the chief place in the
Oisans district, which in Roman times was held by the Vceni.
Some interesting excursions may be made from it and it is one of
the recognised starting-points for the exploration of the Pelvoiix
range (p. 345). Diligence to the railway at Vizille, see p. 337.
The road continues to ascend the valley of the Romanche, but
turns at first to the N. , resuming its former direction in less than
V2 M., after crossing the river. — To the left is the Cascade de la
Sarennes (p. 346). — The (33'/2 M.; 3 M. from Bourg-d"Oisans) Pont
St. Guillerme (2435 ft.) crosses the stream to Le Clapier, where the
carriage -road up the valley of the Ven^on (p. 347) diverges to the
right. The scenery becomes still more picturesque at the Rampe
des Commhes. We enter a wild ravine. The houses of Auris are
seen at a height of 1600 ft. . perched on the apparently inaccessible
rocks of the right bank. In about '/2 M. from the bridge the road
enters a tunnel, beyond which is a beautiful view down the valley
overlooked by the Grandes-Rousses. — 35 M. La Khoire. — 35'/2 M.
Le Garcin , '/g M. beyond which we have a *View up the Gorge of
336 IV. Route 51. LA GRAVE. From Grenoble
the Infernef, the finest part of the route, with another tunnel, nearly
200yds. long, with three lateral openings, and artificially lighted
at night.
371/2 M. Le Freney {3090 ft.; *H6tel Degoul) , with mines of
different kinds.
The Pic de V Etendard, see p. 346. — To Venose via the Col de VAlpe,
p. 348. — We inav also visit the (5l/.i hrs.) Refuge dii Lac Noir (p. 850),
via the (21/4 hrs.) 'Chalets of Millorsol (6810 It.).
We enter a third narrow ravine, with a short tunnel. Beyond
(39'/2 M.) Le Danphin we cross the Romanche and traverse the
Combe de Malaval ('bad valley'), a gorge worn in the gneissic rock.
To the left, P 4 M. farther, is the Piise Waterfall. 650ft. high;
then, on the right, the former Hospice de I'Oche, and l'/4 M.
farther, a short tunnel. On the heights to the right is the huge
(Hacier de Mont-de-Lans (p. 350), and to the S.E. the famous peak
of the Meije (p. 354), one of the chief summits of the Pelvoux
range, rises among other glaciers. — 44'/2 M. Les Frc'aux. (2545 ft.),
immediately beyond which, on the left, is the beautiful Saut de la
Pucelle, a waterfall 260 ft. in height.
46V2 M. La Grave (5000 ft. ; Hotel Juge), a large village to the
b. of which the Meije presents a magnificent view. — Excursions,
see p. 362; pleasant walk to the Plateau d' Emparis. p. 362.
We next pass through two tunnels, 306 and 650 yds. long,
which are lighted at night, the second during the day also. Between
them Ave cross a stream. — 48'/2 M. Villard-d'Arfene (5415 ft. ; Ho-
tel Clot) ; excursions see p. 362. — The road now quits the Ro-
manche and ascends to the left; footpaths to the right save about
IV4M. Fine view of the Meije to the right. We cross meadows con-
taining many rare plants, and before reaching the col, about 100
yds. from the last of the roadmen's huts, catch sight of the glaciers
of the Pelvoux (p. 300) and the N. part of the Ecrins (p. 355).
53 M. Col du Lautaret (6790 ft.), the highest point on the route,
with a Hospice which serves as an inn. The view from the col
and on the descent is very fine and includes the chains of the Meije
and the Pelvoux. The beautiful meadows are famous for their flora.
A new route, which diverges to the N. a little beyond the col, and
of which nearlv 2 M. have yet to be made at the other end, leads in
8-9 hrs. to St. Michel -de-Maurienne (p. 313), viii the Col du Galibier
(8720 ft.; 2 hrs.) between the Grand and Petit Galibier (see p. 36.5). The
views are very fine. If traversed in the opposite direction, this route
takes longer and is more fatiguing. It is. however, the most direct road
between the Uaviphine and Savoy Alps and it can be shortened by foot-
paths. Valloire (4690 ft.: Inn) is the chief village passed, 3i/o-4 hrs. from
the Col.
For the Grand and Petit Galibier, see p. 365; Pic de Combeynot,
p. ;^5.
The Brian^on road then descends to the Guisane valley through
two tunnels, 100 and 440 yds. long. — To the left is the Grand-
Galibier (p. 365) . to the right the Pic de Combeynot (p. 365). —
to Brianfon. LA MONETIER. IV. Route 51. 337
neVa -^i- T.a Madeleine; 59 M. Le Lauief (5635 ft.); 61 M. Le
Casset (4970 ft.). To the right is the Pic des Pi-h-les-Fo>uU (p. 330).
62' ., M. Le Mondtieror Munetier-de-Brituifon (4890 ft. : * Hotel
de r Europe or Izoard : des Voyafjeurs) , a town of 2179 iiihab.,
oil the left bank of the (fuisane. It has a thermal establishment,
with two springs (sulphate of lime: 104° and r22°Falir.i used for
drinking and bathing. — Excursions, see p. 366.
Beyond Le Mouetier the road by a gentle descent reaches the
bottom of the fertile and' thickly-peopled valley of the Guisane. —
64 -M. Les Ouiberfes; 66',a M. Villeneuve; 65 M. La Chirouze;
68 -M. Chanteuierle ; 69 M. St. Chaffrey. To the right is the Pic
de Prorel (p. 343). - 71' ., .M. Brianc.on (p. 343).
b. By Railway.
136 JI. From Grenoble to Gap, 84V-' 31- - in 51/4-61/2 hrs. (fares 16fr. 85,
12 fr. 60, Ofr. 20 e.). — From Gap to Brianfon ^ 511/.^ M., in 81/4-41/3 hrs.
(fares 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 60 c).
Grenoble, see p. 320. — This line, which as far as (68 M.)
Veynes is also the Marseilles line, is remarkable both on account
of its skilful engineering and of the country it traverses. It leaves
the Chambery line on the left and for some time ascends the valley
of the Drac. To the left, beyoud the mountains between the Isere
and the Homanche, we have a fine view of the Taillefer and Pyra-
mide (p. 335) and other peaks on the left bank of the Romanche;
while behind us opens a retrospect of the Grande Chartreuse group,
surmounted by the Dent de CroUes and the Pic de Chamechaude
(p. 326). ■ 5M. Pont - de - Claix (p. 334). At Jarrie. to the left
farther on, is the 15th cent. Chateau de Bonrepos. Beyond a short
tunnel we reach the confluence of the Dra<-- and the Romanche. —
8'/.^ M. Vizille. IV4 M. from the town ip. 323; omnibus 25 c).
In s'lminer a ililigence (in connection with the 5 p. ni. train fiom
Grenoble) plies_t() Bonry-il'Oisans (p. 335) in 5 hrs. (fare 3 fr), returning
from Bourg at 5 a. ni. .K private carriage costs 18 fr. for 1-5 pers. ; each
person additional, 3 fr.
Wenoxt cro<s the BrianQon road and the Romanche; on the back,
to the riglit. the Grande ('iiartreuse group is once more in sight. —
12 M. St. (Jeorges-de-Comniiers.
From St. Georges-de-C'ommiers to La. Mure (Corps, La Salttte), 19 31.,
railway in 1 hr. 50 min. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c). This narrow-
gauge local line traverses a picturesque district , with important coal-
mines. It ascends the right bank of the Drac, and beyond (5 Jf.) yotre-
Dame-ile- Commiers, running high above the river, commands beautiful
viaws. .\fter several tunnels and viaducts we ([uit the valley of the
Drac. Three more tunnels are passed. — 10i/.> Jf. La - Hotte - les - Bains
(2315-2360 ft.: Hotel at the Establishment) is situated in a dale sliut in
by lofty mountains and close to the confluence of the Urac and a brook
which forms a fine waterfall, 425 ft. high. The Bath- Establishment occupies
an old chateau which has been restored and enlarged. The waters are
supplied by two springs (136° and 144° Fahr.) on the bank of the Drac,
and are strongly impregnated with chloride of sodium. They are. highly
beneficial in cases of rheumatism, scrof\ila. etc.
Baedeker. Southern France. 22
338 IV.Rottfe51. CORPS. From Grenoble
The next part of the railway is the most remarkable for the eugineer-
ing diftieulties overcome. — 14 M. La Motte-d'Aveillans (2840 ft.) has im-
portant coal-mines. [A braueh-line runs hence to (I1/4 M.) Notre-Dame-
de-Vatilx, another coal -mining place, whence an interesting excursion
may be made to Laffrey (Hotel Charlaix) , the village where Napoleon
met the troops sent against him after his escape from Elba.] — IBi/o M.
Peychagnard (2900 ft.). — 19 M. La Mure ( 2860 ft : Hotel Pelloux), with
3574 inhab. , and manufactures of nails and packing- canvas, marble-
works, etc.
From La Mure to Corps (La fialeite) , 151/2 M. , diligence in 3 hrs.
(fares 41/21 81/2 fr.). This interesting route leads to the upper valley of
the Drac, crossing (3 M.) its tributary, the Bonne. To the right are the
Obiou (see below) and the other mountains of the Devoluy. — ll/oM.
La Salle. — To the left opens the valley of the Salette. — I51/2 M. Corps
(3155 ft.: Ildtel Gonsolin; de la Poste ; de la PaLr). a market-town to which
also a diligence plies from Gap (p. 340), and another from La Chapelle-
en-ValgodeJimr, via the S^reraisse Valley (p. 352). — Another road leads to
the S. via (6 M.) Pellafol to (71/2 M.) Posterelle (Inn), from which can be
made (10-12 hrs., there and back) the difficult ascent of the Obiou (9165 ft.;
fine view), the chief summit of the Devoluy.
A carriage-road leads from Corps to Notre-Dame-de-la-Salette, 6 M.
to the N.E. ; carriage for 1-3 pers. 15 fr. : mule 4-5 fr. The road ascends
a small valley, and farther on skirts the stream. The scenery is uninteresting.
Beyond the (3 M.) village of La Salette we make a wide circuit to the left
to reach the shrine. — Notre-Dame-de-la-Salette (Inn) is situated on a
small plateau (5910 ft.) between mountains wholly covered with pastures.
Here it was according to their story that the Virgin appeared and spoke in
1846 to a boy and girl, 12 and 14 years old respectively. She wept over
the perversity of mankind, announcing that unless the world repented she
would no longer be able to arrest the arm of her Son, etc. The tale was not
at first fully accepted by the ecclesiastical authorities; a young woman of
Lamerliere was accused by the priests of having personated the Virgin,
and one priest even pretended to have had the avowal from her own lips.
However, pilgrims soon flocked hither from all sides aud they still come
in great numbers, especially on the anniversary of the alleged appearance,
Sept 19. Since 1852 a Romanesque church has been built upon the plateau
and is richly adorned by the generosity of pilgrims. Adjoining is a con-
vent, partly fitted up as an inn, and on the actual spot where the
apparition took place are groups of statues which represent the several
scenes, etc. Beside one of these is i\\e. Fountain to which the tears of the
Virgin, according to the legend, gave rise. Its water is in great request
and is widely distributed like that of Lourdes. The neighbouring height
surmounted by a cross commands an interesting view of the Devoluy.
Beyond St. Georges-de-Commiers the railway crosses the wide
bed of the Drac, beside a suspension-bridge, 970 ft. high. ~- 13 M.
Vif, 3/4 M. to the right.
We now enter upon the most remarkable section of the railway
which rapidly ascends by means of two spiral curves at the extrem-
ity of a chain of hills between the valleys of the Drac aud the
Gresse. Beyond a short tunnel and a curved viaduct we see the
continuation of the line high above us, first on the left and then
on the right. At the end of the first spiral curve we see, far below
us, to the left, the viaduct, Vif and its station, the Drac, and
St. Georges; while a fine mountain-view opens on the same side.
We once more find ourselves in the valley of the Drac, but we
finally quit it by the second spiral curve, on which there is a
tunnel, ^UM. long. The fine view now shows itself on the right.
toBriau(on. MONT-AIGUILLE. IV. Ronte 51. 339
Beyond the next viaduct the massive Moucheiolle (p. 328) rises
on the right, and farther on the Grand-Veymont (see below). —
2OV2M. St. Martin-de-la- Cluse (2040 ft.), formerly noted for its
burning spring, a pool emitting hydrogen gas which burned on
the surface of the water; a factory now stands on the spot. — Four
tunnels are traversed before (26 V2 j^L) Le Monest ier-de- Clermont
(2740 ft.), and another, V2 M. long, beyond it. On issuing from the
last we have a glimpse, to the right, of the sharp Mont Aiguille
(see below). To the left stretches the wide broken plateau of the
Trieves, beyond whicli rise the still more rugged mountains of the
D^voluy (see below). The Grand-Veymont and the Mont-Aiguille
appear again on the right. — 92 M. St. Michel-les-Portes.
The Grand-Veymont (7B95 ft.), the chief summit in the long chain to
which the JlducheroUe (p. 328) also belongs, may be easily ascended hence
in 4-5 hrs. , via the valley of the Pellas (to the" W.), Frepcliinei, and the
Col de la Fouille labmit 6160 ft.), on the S. of the summit, which is reached
in 11/0 hr. move. The view is fine but somewhat hindered by the Mou-
cheroUe. We may descen<l via Pellas and Tres.anne to the station of Clelle.t
(see below), on the N.E.
Beyond St. Michel tunnels and viaducts follow each other in
rapid succession. Fine retrospective views on the left, and of the
Mont Aiguille on the right. - 35V2 M. Clelles-Meiis (2725 ft.;
Hotel, near the station).
The Mont-Aiguille (6880 ft.), 3 hrs. to the W., via La Richardih-e, was
formerly extremely hard to climb, but the French Alpine Club has
now fixed ropes at all dangerous points. The ascent, which takes 1 hr.
from the foot of the clifls , i.^ only fit for steady heads and surefooted
mountaineers : a rope and guide are necessary. The mountain is an elongated
mass of limestone whose summit is a fair-sized grassy plateau. The name
Aiguille is, however, appropriate to it when viewed from its narrower
sides. Thi' view is rather limited.
From Ci.eli,es to Corps (La Saleiie), 23i/o M. A diligence plies as far
as (10 M.) Mens (Lion-d'Or) in 21/2 hrs. (fare IVa, IV4 fr.). To the S.E.
rises the Obiott (.see above) , the ascent of wliich is dangerous from this
side. Corps and La Salette, see p. 338.
Several mori? tunnels and viaducts are passed, both before and
after (41 ','2 M.) St. Maurice-en-Trieves (3220 ft. ; small buffet). The
Trieves (see above) ends in a small wooded gorge, soon after which the
railway attains its culminating point, at the Col de la Croix-Haute
(about 3825 ft.). and at once begins to descend again. — 51 M. Lus-
la-CroLt- Haute (3325 ft. ; Inn). — The country is bare and desolate.
To the E. are the mountains of the De'voluy , a district so named.
It is said, from the Latin 'devolutum', on account of the landslips
to which it is liable and the havoc wrought by the torrents since
the destruction of the timber on these mountains. The chief height
is the Obion (p. 338). on the N. ; next, the Grand-Ferrand (9060 ft.),
to The left, above the village of Lus , and the Montagne d'Auroine,
culminating in the Pic de Bure (8900 ft.).
Ascents of the Obiou and the Pic de Bure, see p. 338 and below. —
The Grand-Ferrand (9058 It.) may be ascended from Lus in 8-9 hrs. Tlio
route leads via the Vallon du Trabuech or valley odhe Jarjatte to the Oranges
des ForiU or La Baraque (about 4260 ft.); carriage to this point in ll/.^hr.
Thence we ascend via the (13/4-2 hrs.) small Lac Ferrand (6400 ft.) to'the
22*
340 IV. Route 5/. GAP. From Grenoble
(i/ghr.) Col de Charmer or de Lauzon (7150 ft.), on the right of the Petit-
Ferrand or Ttte de Lauzon. We then pass (1 hr. ; 8365 ft.) between the
Ferrands^ and finally j-each the summit after I3/4 hr."s difficult elimb over
the crumbling slopes of the mountain. Fine view, especially to the N.E.
as far as Mont Blanc and E. to tlie Pelvoux. The descent (4 hrs. to the
valley) demands even more caution than the ascent.
The railway now descends the valley of the Bnech, and crosses
the stream. — 55 M. St. JvUen-en- Beauchene; 59 M. Tm Faurie
(2755 ft.); 64 M. Aspres-sur-Buech (2500 ft.). — To the right di-
verges the new line to Die (p. 411). Beyond a tunnel and abridge the
line enters the valley of the Petit -Butch to the N.E., leaving the
line to Marseilles on the right. All trains . however , proceed to
Veynes.
68 M. Veynes (2675ft.; Buffet; Hotel and Cafe'de la Gnre), a
smalltown, the junction for the lines to Digne and Marseilles, see
HR. 54, 63. — The Gap line continues to ascend the Petit- Buech
valley, to the S. of the mountains of the Devoluy. Wc cross the
Be'ous. To the left is the Pic de Bure (see below) . to the right the
Montague de f iH.se (6620 ft.). - 72 M. Montnuinr, a village I'^M.
to the left, has an ancient chateau.
The Pic de Bure (8900 ft.; tine view) maybe ascended hence in Ti/^-S
hrs., with guide , via (I1/4 hr.) La Montagne , the (SVa l"".) Fontaine ~de
VAbreuvoir, the last spring on this side, the (2 hrs.) Pas de Paid (caution
necessary), and the (1 hr.) Plateau de Bure.
75VaM. La Roche-des-Arnauds. To the left appears the Mon-
tagne de Charance (6240 ft.) and farther on the Vieux- Chaillol
(10,375 ft.; p. 340). Beyond (78V2M.) La Freissinouse is a viaduct
of two storie.'s, 170 ft. high, followed by a sharp descent.
84'/aM. Gap (2425 ft.; Hotel des Ne'gociants, de Provence, de la
Paste, all in thellueNeuve), the FapMicwmoftheRomans, atown with
11,620 inhab., and the chief town of the department of the Hautes-
.ilpes. It is situated on the Luye, a tributary of the Durance. Gap
was formerly of greater importance, but it suffered much in the Re-
ligious Wars, was ravaged by the plague in 1630. and was burned
in 1692 by Victor Amadeus II. of Savoy. It contains little to inter-
est the tourist. The new Cathedral, begun in 1866 and now nearly
completed, is a Romanesque building in black, white, and pink stone.
In the same square is the Bishop.^:' Palace, and a little farther
on, the Prefecture, containing the Monument of Lesdiguiires (see
p. 341), by Jacob Richier. brought to Gap at the Revolution and
placed in its present position in 1836. The Pr(5fecture also contains
a small local Museum. In front of the barracks is a marble Statue
of Ladoucette (d. 1848) , a former prefect of the department, by K.
Marcellin, of Gap, to whom also a statue is to be erected.
About 8V2 M. to the S., on the road to (35 M.) Sisteron (p. 370; dili-
gence at 8.30 a.m.), is Tallard (Hotels), on the right bank of the Durance,
with a *Ca.itle (14-16th cent.), burnt in 1692, many portions of which are
still in tolerable preservation.
FroM (Jap to Corps, 231/2 JI., diligence daily in 5 lirs. (fare 5 fr.). The
road mounts rapidly to the N. towards the Col Bayard (4085 ft.), whence tlie
.)foiitag>ie de Olaize (7130 a.), to the N.W.. mav be ascended in 3 hrs. Tho
to Briancon. I5ARCEL0NNETTE. IV. Route 51. 341
mountains are bare in places; to the left, the De'volny (p. 339); to the
right the Cliampsaur , which owes its name ('campus auri', field of gold)
to its former fertility before the destruction of the woods. — 6 M. Laye,
after which comes a long descent into the Drac valley. — 10 M. Les
Jiarraques , a hamlet on the left bank of the torrent. On the opposite
bank is the small town of St. Bonnet (liCt. des Alpes), the birthplace of
Lesdiguieres (1543-1626), who was long the leader of the Calvinists of
this district, but in 1622 changed sides and fought against them that he
might reach his ambition of the Constableship (comp. p. 321). — We now
follow the Drac and cross it before arriving at (151/2 M.) Aubessagne.
Farther on, on the left bank , are the shapeless ruins of the Chdieaii de
Lesdiguieres. The valley is now interesting, and we soon reach (2131.)
Apres-les-Corps. — 231/2 M. Corps (p. 338).
The *Vieux-Chaillol (10,375 ft.) mav be ascended in about 5 hrs. from
,S(. Michel-de-Chaillol (4510 ft.), 11 31. to' the K.E. of Gap, and about 7 M.
to the E. of St. Bonnet (see above) by the right bank of the Drac, as far
as (5i/._. M.) ChahoUes. Nearly 91/2 BI. of the distance from St. Michel via
the small Col de Jfaiise, may be performed by the Orcieres diligence (4a.m.).
The ascent is not difficult, and mules ascend to within 1/2 hr. of the top.
The route leads via the (I/4 hr.) Marrons (4710 ft.), along a stream and
an irrigation-canal, then to the W. of the Pie du Toiirond (9020 ft.), and
via. the (31 '.1 lirs.) Col du Tourond (8850 ft.), near which is a new Hut
(about 1 hr. below the summit) , where the night may be spent. The
*Panorama is one of the finest of the mountains of Haut-Dauphine. • — A
fatiguing but not difficult descent may be made, with guide, to (41/2-5 hrs.)
the Valgodemar, via (N.) the (2 hrs.) Col de Londenikre or du Sellon and
the (•V4 fir.) Comhe des Navettes, whence we reacli in 11/-J-1-V4 hr. La Cha-
pelle-en- Valgodemar (p. 352). |
90 '/.J M. La Bdtle- Neuve-le-Laus. At La Batie is a ruined
chateau of the bishops of Gap. — 95 M. Charges (Hot. de la Poste).
a little village of ancient origin (Cafuriga). redticed to ruins by di-
vers conquerors and a great tire. There are only a few traces ofCeltic-
Ivoman works. Beyond it we descend sharply, cross two viaducts
and traverse two tunnels, between which, to the right, appears the
Durance. — 99 M. Prunieres (2415 ft.).
From Prukiekes to BARfKLOnuETTE (Maurin, Larche).^ 261 /» ji.^ diligence
in 41 /.3 hrs.; fare 4 fr. — The road ascends the Vallee de V Uhave ., to the
S.E. , via (7i/.2ai.) Ubaye, (131/.. AI.) Le Lauzet (Hotels), (19i/.>M.) Revel,
opposite iVeolans, and (22V2 *'.) '-" Thuiles. — 261/2 M. Barcelonnette (3710 ft. ;
Hotel du Xord), a town with 2234 inhab., on the right hank of the Ubaye,
was founded in the 13th cent, by Uaymond Berenger, Count ol" Provence,
a scion of the house of Barcelona. Alternately owned by Savoy and France,
it was finally ae(|uired by the latter at the Peace of Utrecht (1713) in
exchange for Castel Delfiuo (p. .308). Probably no town sulTered so much
in the frontier-wars as Barcelonnette. Many of the inhabitants leave the
district in winter to carry on various trades in the plains. The town is
surrounded by picturesque mountains, as yet little known but offering
many fine excvirsions. In the chain which divides the Ubave valley from
that of the Durance, to the N., are the Grand-Berard (9996 ft'.), the highest,
opposite Barcelonnette: on the right of that tlie Petit-Clausis (9635ft.); on
the left, the Sonaille or Gvande-Epervikre (9395 ft.); behind, the Parpaillon
(9830 ft.), etc. In the chain on the N.E., beyond which is Larche (see below),
rises the Tete de Cugurei (9970 ft.: see below), etc.
From Barcelonnette the road continues to ascend the Ubaye valley (dili-
gence to St. Paul) via (U/o M.) Paucon, (5 JI.) .faussierf (4263 ft.), and
(71/.1 M.) Condamiue-Chdtelard\ near which is the Fort Tnunioux, on a height
above the confluence of the Ubaye and Vbayelte. At (9M.) GleizoUes the road
to Larche diverges on the right'(see below). — 13i/o M. St. Paul-sur-Ubaye
(4820ft.; Hotel Hellion) has quarries of green marble. The /Jrec de Cliain-
beyron (11,115 ft.), one of the numerous'frontier peaks over 10.000 ft. high.
342 IV. Route 51. EMBRUN. From Grenoble
may be ascended hence in S'/a-S hrs., via (2 hrs.) Fouillouse. To Guillestre
via tlie Col de Vars, see p. 367. — Beyond (171/2 M.) Pont-St. Antoine the
valley narrows to a romantic gorge. I81/.2 31. La Blachiere. — 21 M.
Maurin or Maljasset (62la5 ft. ■■, Inn) has quarries of green and other marble.
The Aiguille de Chambeyron (11,160 ft.), to the E., may be ascended hence
in 7-71/2 hrs. To the Vallee du Guil via the Cols de Girardin and de
Tronchet, see p. 368. — The road proceeds farther up the vallev via Combe-
Br4mond, the Lac du Paroird (6710 ft.), Le Gd (6770 ft.), Les BlaveUes, etc.
to (21/2 hrs. from Maurin) the Col de Longet (8765 ft.), whence we may
descend in 31/2 hrs. to Castel Delfino (p. 368). A route diverging to the
right from Le Ga leads to (I1/2 hr.) a shepherd's hut, whence the Grand-
Rubren (11,140 ft.; view) may easily be ascended in 21/2-8 hrs.
From GleizoUes (see above) a road traversing the valley of the Ubayette,
to the E., at the foot of the Tete du Cuguret (9970 ft.), leads via Meyronnes
and Certamussat to (14 M. from Barcelonnette) Larche (5565 ft. ; Hotel).
About 31/2^1- farther the road crosses the Col de Larche (6545 ft.) on the
frontier, also called Col de VArgentiere , from Argentera^ the first Italian
village, 3 M. farther. The col is celebrated for the passage of a French
army in 1515, relatively a greater military feat than the passage of the
St. Bernard in 1800. — To the N.E., on the frontier, rises the Pointe della
Signora (6890 ft.), behind which is the Col de Ritburent (8145 ft.), via which
we may return from Argentera to the valley of the Ubayette.
Beyond Pruiileres the line crosses two viaducts and follows the
right hank of the Durance , the hed of which is nearly dry in
summer. — 102 M. Savines {Hotel and guides), a considerable place
on the left bank at the foot of the Morgon (7630 ft.), a fine mountain
of which the ascent takes 6 hrs. Farther on, on the right, is the
Pic de Martin-Jean or Grand-Ferrand (6185 ft.). We thread two
tunnels, 940 and 1050 yds. long.
109 M. Embrun (2855 ft.; Hotel Thouwd; de la Paste), a town
of 4480 inhab. on a rock overlooking the right bank of the Durance
and at the foot of Mo7it St. Gidllaume (8620 ft.). It is the Ebrodu-
num of the Romans, which Hadrian constituted the capital of the
Maritime Alps, and an ancient archiepiscopal see. It was frequently
ravaged by the barbarians, and maintained during the Middle Ages a
long contest with its archbishops, on whom the emperor Conrad III
had conferred in 1147 the title of prince. It was taken and laid
under contribution by Lesdiguieres in 1585, and bombarded and
taken once again by Victor Amadeus II. of Savoy. The principal
edifice is the old Cathedral (11th cent.), with a fine Romanesque
tower, which has been restored, a W. front of the 13th cent., and a
curious N. portal with a porch with pink marble columns, resting
on lions. In the interior is an interesting old organ case. In the
sacristy is a Virgin , presented by Louis XI., and some fine old
ornaments.
We traverse two viaducts and between them a short tunnel,
and beyond (112 M.) Chateauroux two more small tunnels. —
116 M. St. Clement. We cross the Durance at the confluence of the
Guil, and then a branch of this river, in view of Mont Dauphin,
situated on the right. To the left is the Pointe de Fouran (8690 ft.).
119 M. Mont -Dauphin -Guillestre. Mont -Dauphin is a for-
tified town situated on a iiill at the junction of the Durance and
to B>ianf07i. BRJANCON. IV. Route 51. 343
Guil valleys. Its population is only about 500, exclusive of the garri-
son. The fortitications were erected by Vauban in 1693. — To
Guillestre and the Vaile'e du Guil, see R. 53.
The valley of the Durance again contracts. — 124 M. La Eoche-
fOUS-Briancon.
* About 3/4 hr. to the W. is Pallon, in the picturesque Valley of Freissi-
niires., watered by the Biaysse, which flows underground in the gorge of
Cotiffourent for about 90 yds.
128 M. L'Argentihr-la- Besse'e (Hotel Girard, at La Bessie-
Basse). The former is so called from its mines of silver-lead.
A conveyance t'courrier"; I1/2 fr.) plies hence daily at 11. 15 a.m. to
(6I/.2 31.) Vallouise. The road ascends to the N.W. through a fertile valley
watered by the Gyronde. At its entrance , on the right , are the remains
of the Wall of the Vaudois, a rampart constructed by those persecuted
people to defend the valley. Halfway is the village of Vigneaux. — Val-
loiiife, p. 359.
The line now rapidly ascends in a grand *Deflle flanked by
^heer rocks, and goes through six tunnels, from 150 yds. to '/2 il.
long. Fine views are occasionally obtained, especially towards the
Felvoux range, on the left (p. 344), and farther on of Brian^on and
the fortified heights about it. — 133 M. Prelles.
136 M. Brian^on. — Hotels. Terminus Hotel, at the station, which
is in the suburb of Ste. Catherine (3940 ft.), 1 M. from the town, E. 21/2-
6 fr. : Hotel uk la Pai.x, in the upper part of the town, with the office of
the diligences tci (Trenoble and 0\\\\ (p. 344), and of the railway-omnibus.
BriaiifoH (4330 ft.), the Brigantiiim of the Romans, a town of
5777 inhab. and a fortress of the first class, above the confluence of
the Guisane and Durance, is a place of little importance, with no-
thing to interest the traveller. The streets, furrowed by runnels of
clear water called 'Gargouilles". are narrow and in many places too
steep for carriages. But the town presents from a distance a pictur-
esque appearance and is undoubtedly a formidable fortress, com-
pletely commanding the important route between Italy and France
via Mont Geiievre (see below). It has a triple line of walls and the sur-
rounding heights are crowned by ten forts, constructed between
1722 and the present day. The permission of the coniuiandant is
required to visit the forts, the highest of which afford very fine
views. The strongest are on the left bank of the Durance and are
connected with the town by the Pont Asfeld . built in 1734, and
having a single arch of 130 ft. span and 180 ft. in height. A fine
view is commainled from the bridge and also from the Place de
la Paix, on this side of it. The pyramidal snow-peak at the head
of the valley is the Chaberton (see below). Farther down the valley
rises the Pic de Month rison (9265 ft.).
One of the best view -points in the neighbourhood is the summit
known as the Croix de Toulouse (6470 ft.), to the N., above the Sallettes
redoubt. The ascent only takes il/2 hr.
The Pic de Prorel (8440ft.). to the W. of the town, whence there is
a comprehensive view of the Brianson district, is easily climbed in 81/2-
4 hrs.. via Xotre-Dame-des-yeiges (7535 ft.) a pilgrim-resort, V4 l"". below
the summit.
From Bkiak^on to the Grand Pic de Uochebrlne. This excursion.
344 IV. liuute 51. MONT GENEVKE.
recommended to practised mountaineers, is now usually made in I1/2 day,
by sleeping at the refuge (see below), 5 hrs. from Briancon and 31/2 lirs.
from the top. Guide, from Cervieres, whence the start may also be made,
for 1 day, 9, U/a day 12 fr. A carriage-road crosses the Durance to the
S.W. of the town and farther on turns to the E., into tlie valley of the
Cerveyi-etie , which it ascends as far as (6 M.) Cervieres (Inn-, guides).
Thence we proceed to the S. to (I/2 hr.) Laiis, in the valley of Izouard,
whence a path leads via the (I1/2 hr.) Col d^Izouard (7835 ft.; hospice-re-
fuge) to (H/3 hr.) Arvieux and (II/3 hr.) Chateau-Queyras (p. 368). From
Laus, we ascend to the left to the (il/o hr.) Fontaine des Otiles (7610 ft.),
and thence to the (1 hr.) Col des Fortes (9186 ft.), to the W. of which is
the Refuge Vignet, established by the French Alpine Club. We are here
only 1630 ft. from the top, but care must be taken in climbing the loose
rocks, pa.ssing round a cornice, ascending a cheminee, etc. The Grand
Pic de Rochebrune (10,905 It.), named Grand to distinguish it from another
Fie de Rochebrune (10,115 ft.), more than 3 31. to the E. as the crow flies,
resembles the Viso (p. 369), commanding a magnificent "View, over nearly
the whole of the Alps, but not of the Italian plains. A descent may be
made to the S. or to tlie W. to make other excursions in tlie Queyras : to
the S., to Chateau-Queyras (p. 368) via the Vallon des Souliers ; to the W.,
to the Izouard refuge (see above), via the Col Perdu (about 8200 ft.).
From Briancon to Oulx (Mont Cenis line) via Mont Genevre, 2O1/2 M.,
diligence at 7. 30 p. m. (returning from Oulx at 9 a. m.) and sometimes
also at noon, in 71/0 and 5 hrs. ; fares 7 and 6 fr. ; private carriage 25 fr.,
to Mont Genevre 12 fr. — We first ascend to the N.E. in the valley of
the Durance to (2 M.) La Vachette. We cross the river, and at (3 M.) Lef
Alberts begin the ascent iu six wide zigzags (short-cut for walkers). Fine
views. — 7 M. Mont Genfevre (6100 ft. ; Balcet's Inn) , the Mons Jamis of
the Romans, is a village on the pass of the same name, wliich is one of the
best and safest in the Alps, because it is open to the S. and sheltered
from N. winds. This is the route taken by most of the armies wliich have
crossed the Alps since remote times, though the present road only dates from
1802, as is recorded on the obelisk at the frontier about 8/4 M. farther on.
— The Chaberton (10,295 ft.), an isolated limestone rock to tlie K.E.,
where we are already on Italian soil, may be easily ascended from Mont
Genevre in 4 hrs. (there and back 6 hrs.). Mules may 1)6 taken as far
as the Col de Chaberton, within 3/4 ]ir. of tlie top, from vvhicJi there is a fine
and wide panorama.
The route then descends into the valley of the Doire to (8 M.) Cla-
rieres, where there is the Italian custom house. 15 M. Gisanne (4455 ft.) is
a market-town on the Doire, in a pretty and fertile district. Beyond a
defile we reach (2O1/2 M.) Oulx (p. 314).
From Briangon to Mont -Thabor , via Nevaehe, 13i/o M. to the K.W.
in the valley of the Clairee, etc., see p. 367.
52. The Pelvoux Kange and its Environs.
The Pelvoux Range (Massif du Velvoux), so called from Mont
I'elvoux (p. 3G0), one of its chief peaks and the longest known, thougli
not the highest, is bounded on the N. and N.E. by the valleys of the
l{onianche and the Guisane (road to Urian^on); on the E. and S.E.
by those of the Durance and its tributary the Biaysse; on the S. by
those of the Drac de Chanipoh'on , the Severaisse , and the Bonne:
and on the W. by those of the Malsanne and the Lignare. Thi.s
mountain mass consists of a main chain comprising the Mcijc
(13,080 It.), the Ecrins (13,460ft.) and the Pelvoux (12,970 ft.);
the smaller chains of Olan (12,740 ft.) and the "Sbizclle (11,350 ft.),
to the «.W. of the former: the chain of Bonvoisin (11,500ft.), to
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LE BOURG-D'OISANS. IV. Route 52. 345
the S.. etc. It is the largest range in Dauphin^ and the most inter-
esting to explore, in spite of the ruggeduess of its peaks. It is be-
coming also more and more the rendezvous of mountaineers, who find
abundance of ascents of the first rank. The Meije has been com-
pared to the Matterhorii , which is not nearly so difficult to ascend,
and the Rarre des Ecrins has been compared to the Jungfrau, while
there are many other points of resemblance to be found between the
Alps of Dauphin^ and those of Switzerland.
For the sake of convenience, we have added to the directions for
the Pelvonx group those referring to the neighbouring mountains,
such as Belledonne, the Grandes-Rousies. the Goleon, the Aiguilles
d'Aive, and the Galihier, situated to the N. of the Romanche valley.
The principal starting-points for excursions in these mountains
are Le Bourg-d'Oimns (Allemont, Oz; see below), St. Christophe-
eii-Ois((H.f and La Be'rarde. in the valley of the Vene'on (p. 349).
VaUouise [p. ood) . La Grave (p. 336) . Villard-dWrcne (p. 336),
Lc Lautaret (p. 336), and Le Monetier (p. 337).
The HoteU and Inn^ are still very primitive but they are steadily
improving. The French Alpine Club and the Societe desTouristes
du Dauphine (Grenoble, Rue Montorge, 11). formed in 1874 and 1875.
have contributed greatly to this progress and have spent much money
in order to facilitate excursions in the Pelvoux range, by erecting
fliiger-posts and constructing some 15 refuges and two chalet-hotels,
referred to below.
Good Guides are to be had, for whose services the latter society
has established a tariff: generally 6-15 fr. a day for a guide and
5-10 fr. for a porter, in addition to food or 3 fr. more if they find
their own. The society has divided the walks and ascents into
several classes, visually three . beginning with the easiest, and into
'courses extraordinaires' (comp. pp. 349. 359, 36'2}. When the tra-
veller does not himself return to the place of departure, a return-
fee is usually payable to the guides (comp. the list of tariffs, which
the porters shew on demand). When nothing is said to the con-
trary, it is to be understood that a guide is necessary or at least
useful for the following excursions. As guides are not numerous
it will often save time and disappointment if one be engaged be-
I'urehand. Provisions, an ice-axe, and a rope are also nearly al-
ways required. Only the chief excursions, of course, can be here
indicated.
a. Excursions from Le Eourg-d'Oisans, Oz, and Allemont.
Le Bourg-d'Oisans (p. 335) is the starting-point for excursions in
the Pelvoux group fur those coming from Grenoble, and the rendez-
vous of those who intend to climb the Grandes - Housses. Those,
however, who are willing to sacrifice comfort in ortler to shorten the
routes on this side will not return to Bonrg-d'Oisans. but after their
first excursion will descend to Oz (2720 ft.: Inns: Ferreol. Genevois;
346 IV. Route 52. GUANDES-ROUSSES. Pelvoux Range
guides MoUere of LeBessey, Verney, father and son, of Oz), or Alle-
mont (abot 2620 ft. ; Perratone's Inn, at the foundry; Vial, Manin,
in the village; guide, P. Ginet). Wo may also reach these villages
by the route mentioned on p. 335. — From Allemont to the Sept-
Laux, see p. 333.
To THE Grandes- RoL'ssES , various excursions, Uoth Bourg-
d'Oisans, or better from Os, because there is a better view on that
side, and it is nearer the (3'/2 hrs.) Refuge de la Fare (see below).
These mountains form an isolated chain to the N. of the valley of
the Romanche. The name Rousses is given to them on account
of their ochreish colour. On both sides of this ridge are glaciers
more than 6 M. long. The principal peaks are, beginning at the S.,
the Herpie (9825ftO, the Pic Blanc (10,930 ft.), a nameless peak
(11,155 ft.), the Pic Bayle or Pic Sud (11,395 ft.), and the Etendard
or Pic Nord (11,395 ft.).
From Bourg-d'Oisans the road is practicable for carriages as far as
(31/2 M.) Huez. We follow the Brian90u road and beyond the first bridge
turn to the left, pass the splendid cascade of the Sarennes (about 1/4 br.),
and proceed via (35 min.) La Garde (2960 ft.), (40 min.) Huez (4910 ft.),
the (35 min.) Chalets de VAlpe^ and the (25 min.) plateau oi Brandes (5900 ft.),
where there are some old silver mines and anthracite quarries; then to
the (li/4hr.) Lac Blanc (8360ft.), fed by the glaciers of the Grandes-Rousses,
which overlook it on the E. To the \V. a magnificent view is obtained
of the groups of Taillefer, Belledonne , etc. — The Herpie (9825 ft.;
wide panorama), one of the nearest summits of the Grandes-Rousses, is
easily ascended from the lake iu I1/2 hr. To the N. of the lake are the
Petites- Rousses. The Lac de la Fare (refuge, see below) is less than 21/2 ^^■
off in a straight line. To make the ascent of the Etendard, it is advisable
to sleep at this refuge or at Oz.
From Oz to the Lac Blanc a footpath (about 4 hrs.) ascends to the S.E.,
passing the (21/2 hrs.) Chalets de Poiiiran (6230 ft.), and winding finally round
some hills where there are two more lakes. — To reach the Refuge, we must
go on the other hand to the N.E. of the village, via (35 min.) Le Bessey
(3600 ft.), the (40 min.) Plan du Seye (4T25 ft.) , and the (1 hr.) Alpetta
(6315 ft.). The Refuge de la Fare (7270 ft.) is about 31/2 1»'S- from Oz, and
35 min. on this side of the Lac de la Fare (8730 ft.), also at the foot of
the Grandes-Rousses glacier. The Pic Bayle or Pic Sud (11,395 ft.), the
nearest to the lake, is not so frequently climbed as the Etendard, which
is more to the N. The ascent presents, however, no difficulty, and may
be accomplished in about 5 hrs. from the refuge (guide, 16 fr.). We as-
cend to the right, over rocks and by the glacier, towards the Pic Hlanc,
climbing to the col between this peak and the nameless one, after which
we pass to the E. of the lattor and cross a gorge at the foot of the snow-
slopes leading to the top. For the view, see below.
The 'Etendard or Pic Nord (11,395 ft.) presents no greater difficulty
than the Herpie, and is ascended in about the same time. We proceed
first to the N. E. to the Col de la Cochette or du Couard (9840 ft.), at the
N. base of the peak, more than half-way. The •Panorama from the sum-
mit is as fine as from the other, the chain of the Grandes-Rousses being
isolated; to the E. and N.E. , the Aiguilles d'Arves and the great peaks
of Savoy as far as Mont Blanc; to the S. the Pelvoux range; to the W.
Belledonne, etc. — The descent may be made to the S.E. by the Glacier
des Qiiij-lies, to Le Freney (7-71/2 hrs.; p. 336), via CIar«ns (Aubert's Inn),
3 hrs. from the glacier and 41/2 M. from Le Freney.
To THE P10.S BE Belledonne, from Allemont and also from Oz
and Bourg-d'Oisans, sleeping at the Refuge de Belledonne (see be-
low), about 4 hrs. from Allemont. These peaks, which can also be
and Us Environs. PICS DE BELLEDONNE. IV. Route 52. 347
climbed from Revel (p. 329) and Ullage (p. 331), are three in number
and are called the CroLr de Belledonne . Pic Central, and Grand
Pic de Belledonne.
The Croix de Belledonne (9780 ft.) is a fairly easy ascent, but it takes
7-71/2 hrs. from Allemont (guide, 8 fr.). We proceed first to the N.W.,
then'to the N.E., via (II/2 lir) Coteyssard^ (1 hr.) Le Chasal, and the (8/4 hr.)
Col (III Besfei/. which can be reached by mules. Thence it is I hr. to the
Refuge de Belledonne (7100 ft.; fine view). Next we pass the (I/2 hr.) Lac
de Belledonne and thence ascend over loose stones and a fairly easy snow
conloir till we .join the route from Revel and Uriage (p. 331). Magnificent
*^View, extending as far as Mont Blanc, but to the N.E. partly interrupted
by the Grand Pic. — The descent to tfriage takes 4-41/2 hrs.
The Grand Pic de Belledonne (about 10,(X)0 ft.) is much more difficult.
The ascent takes 9 hrs. from Allemont (guide, 1 day or U/o day , 16 fr.)
and is only possible with the help of ropes which have been fixed for
the purpose, while the descent is even more difficult. As far as the Refuge
see above; then we leave the route to the little peak on the left in order
to make the circuit of the large one to the N.E. No difficulty occurs for
about 1 hr. ; then we mount a steep slope of hard snow, some slippery
rocks, and a very fatiguing couloir, to the foot of the final peak (1 hr.).
We skirt this peak to the S. to reach the (1/4 hr.) first rope, made fast to
the steep rock-slope, and then pass above (5 min.) a precipice. In 1/4 hr.
more the second rope is reached, which is longer, in a cheminee, where the
passage is still more difficult. There only remains now a short climb before
reaching the top. The *Panorama is splendid, especially to the S.E. over
the Pelvoux range and to the E. and N.E. over the peaks of Savoy and
part of the Swiss mountains. — The descent to the Refuge takes 5 hrs.
— The Pic Central de Belledonne has only been climbed once as yet (by
JI. Duhamel); the ascent is difacult.
The Grande-Lance d'Allemont (9330 ft.), to the W. of this village, has
been ascended only a few times, although there is no great difficulty. It
takes about 51/2 hrs. (guide 16 fr.), and the descent on the S. to Livet (p. 335),
41/2 hrs. An ascent of 31/4 hrs. via (I3/4 hr.) some past\ires and (U/ahr.)
a small glacier brings us to the Col de la Porteite^ from which the foot of
the peak is ri'ached in 40 min. and the top in I1/4 hr. more, by couloirs
on the W. and N. The panorama is glorious and to the S. is better
than from Belledonne. It is, however, partly blocked by that mountain
towards the N. — The descent to Livet is made by the (1-V4 lir.) Col
de la Poitette and then direct to the old silver mines of (3/4 hr.) Cha-
lanehes and so to the (U/4 hr.) Cascade dit Baton. Allemont may also be
rctached from the old mines.
To the TailUfer, see p. .334.
To St. Chri.stopiie .vxd L.\ Ber.\rde, 4*/.2 hrs. atid 7'/4 hrs. on foot
from Bourg-d'Oisaiis via the Valley of the Ve'ne'on, which falls into
the Romanche '/a hr. higher on the left bank. There is a carriage-
road on the right bank, diverging from the La Grave road fit (3 M.)
Pont St. Gnillerme (p. 335) and coming to an end a full hour short
of St. Christophe at the Plan du Lac (p. 348). A guide is unneces-
sary. Carriage with one horse to the Plan 18 fr., two horses 25 fr. ;
to V^tiosc (Bourg-d'Arud) , 10 and 15 fr. — On the left bank is a
bridle-path, not always practicable, which saves about ■* 4 hr. It re-
joins the road at Les Ougiers (see below.).
The *Valley or the Venkon is one of the most beautiful among
the .\lps of Dauphin^. To the S.E. it attains a considerable height
among the Pelvoux mountains and affords very fltie view- points,
while from its entrance we have a beautiful retrospect of the Belle-
donne (see above).
348 IV. Route 52. VENOSC. PeJvoux Range
Opposite us!, beyond the bridge, rises the Eocbail (10,070ft.), with
the glacier of Villard-Eymond, a village (5090 ft.) on the left bank, 21/2 hrs.
from Bourg. Tlie ascent may be made thence in 5 hrs., via the (l'V4 1"")
Cabane du Loson, the (3/4 hr.)"E. extremity of the glacier, and the (21/4 hrs.)
Col du Rochail. Fine view , especially of the Grandes-Boxisses to the N.
6 M. Les Ougiers, a hamlet with a bridge over the V^n^on , tlie
junction of the path from Bourg-crOisans (see above).
About 1/2 M. lienee is Les Gauchoirs (2775 ft.) , a hamlet on the right
bank, on a brook whicli descends from the Lac de Lovitel or Lauvitel
(5900 ft.), a lovely lake I1/2 hr. to the S., 1/2 M. long and 500 yds. wide.
Its waters escape by three underground streams which rise about
125 yds. lower down. The lake is deeply embosomed and its banks can
only be followed high above the water. There is a raft which may be
used for crossing (V4 hr.) when it is within reach. On the other side is
the Briche de Lovitel or de Valsenestre (8640 ft.), between the Clapier du
Peyron (10,400ft.) and the Signal de Lovitel (9535 ft.). This pass, which
leads to Valsenestre (see below), is tolerably easy.
Farther on the right appear a fine waterfall ami tlie Briche du
Vallon or Aiguille de Venose (9230 ft.), between the valley of the
Lac de Lovitel (see above) and that of the Pisse. V6nosc (3445 ft. ;
Hotel Martin ; guide, J. Rochetfe) , a charmingly situated village,
about V2 M. to the left, owes a certain prosperity to the plants
gathered in the neighbouring mountains. Opposite rises the Roche
de la Muzelle (see below and p. 351).
From Venosc to Le Frenky, 31/2 hrs., an easy expedition, which may
be made on mules. Guide unnecessary. Fine retrospective view of the
Roche de la Muzelle. The path leads through pastures and a forest, via
the (IVahr.) Chalets de VAlpe to the (1 hr.) Col de I'Alpe (5315 ft.), and
thence to (8/4 hr.) Mont-de-Lans (4200 ft. : Inn), a village which has given
its name to the chief glacier in Dauphine, over 3 M. in a straight line to
the S.E. (p. 350). — Le Freneij, 1/2 hi'- farther, see p. 336.
8 M. Le Bourg-d' Anid (Girand's Inn , bargaining advisable) , a
hamlet belonging to Venose.
The Vallon de la Pisse, in whicli is the (3 hrs.) little Lac de la Muzelle,
ascends to the S. towards the Col de la Muzelle (about 8200 ft.), below
which there is a small glacier. The Col is between the Clapier du Peyron
(see above) and the Roche de la Muzelle (p. 351). The view to the N. is
very fine. — A walk of 8-9 hrs. via this fatiguing col leads to Valsenestre
(4230 ft. ; Blanc's Inn ; guides. Got, Viot), inthe valley of the Beranger,
a tributary of the Bonne (p. 344).
The carriage-road crosses the Ven^on at Le Bourg-d'Arud and
ascends rapidly to the Clapier de St. Christophe , a chaos of rocks
fallen from the Soreiller (7650 ft.) , to the S. . a block of which
forms a natural bridge over the torrent, 25 min. from the village.
The path formerly crossed this bridge. In about 5 min. thence the
J'lan-du-Lac is reached, an ancient lake-bed where the road now
ends. Farther on we follow a mule-track along the bare right bank.
Facing us is the fine Chaine des Fe'toules (p. 351). A little before
the (30-35 min.) end of the Plan the beautiful Fall of the Enchatin
descends on the right, between the Soreiller and the Aigvillc de
I'Enchatra (8445 ft.). From the hamlet of tliis name, on the right
bank, about P/4 hr. from the bridge, the ascent of the Roche de la
Muzelle (p. 351) may be made. The path now ascends a steep
slope, with a view, to the right, of the Tete de Loranonre (p. 351),
<vtil its Em-irons. ST. CHRISTOPHE. IV. Roide 52. 349
the Aiguille du Canard (p. 351), and the Aiguille des Arias
^11,155 ft.). At the (V-i hr.) top of the slope a few traces of cultiva-
tion are mot with, and St. Christophe comes in sight. — About
'/.> M. farther the *Porit du Dinble crosses the stream of that name,
and in '/j M. more we reach St. Cliristophe.
IS'/jM. St. Christophe-en-Oisans (4820 ft.; Inns: Veuve Turc ;
.int. Turc). a village at the foot of the Aiguille du Plat (p. 351) and
opposite the Tete de Loranoure (p. 351), the Aiguille du Canard
(p. 351), Aiguille des Arias, etc. It is of no importance except as
a starting-point for excursions (see below).
As we proceed towards La Berarde we have in front of us the
Chaine des Fe'toules (p. 351), round which the V^i^on winds to
the right. Beyond ('/a hr.) Le Clot appear, on the right, the beauti-
ful Waterfall and Glacier de la Mariande. On the left is Champ-
Ebran. Fine retrospective view. About '/ohr. from Le Clot, a
guide-post indicates the route (to the right) to La Lavey (see below) ;
pleasing view of its valley . with a fine waterfall, several glaciers,
and the Aiguille d'Olan (p. 352i. About 3/4 hr. beyond ('/4 hr.)
Champhorent we are again on the level of the stream, with a line
retrospective view of the Roche de la Muzelle (p. 351). Towards the
head of the valley is the grand chain of the Ecrins (p. 355) , of which
the only peak visible is Pic Lory, the highest but one. To the right
of it is the Pic Coolidtie (p. 355). In 10 min. more we reach Les
Etages (5230 ft.), beyond which we keep to the left, and in ^/^ hr.
i2'/4 hrs. from St. Christophe) arrive at —
TVilirs. La B6rarde (5700 ft.), the last hamlet. The principal
house is the *('lKilef -Hotel of the Society des Touristes du Dau-
phin^, which is well equipped and managed (moderate tariff). Lodg-
ing may also be obtained at the Chalet Rodier. La Berarde is an
excellent starting-point for excursions in the Pelvoux mountains,
viii the upper valley of the ^"eneon on the S. , and via the Vallee
desEtan^ons. which ascends to the N. to the Meije chain. The
situation of La Berarde has been compared to that of the Wengerrx
Alp in Switzerland.
b. Excursions from St. Christophe and La Berarde.
Sf. Christopheund La Be'rarde, being tolerably close together (see
above), have a certain number of excursions in common, especially
those via the Refuge de la Lavey (about 5740 ft.), 3 and 3'/2 hrs.
distant, in the valley of that name, which is on the right in going
from St. Christophe to La Be'rarde.
Guides. 'P- (laspard, Jean-Chr. and Pierre Roderon at St. Christophe;
.l.-B. Rodier and .sons at La Be'rarde ; Pierre Gaspard jr. at Les Etages.
Tariff: I (1st class, p. 345), 1/2 dav , guide, 4, porter 4 l"r. ; 1 dav, 8,
10. 12, and (porter) 8 fr. — II. 1 dav, 15 and 10, !!/•' day. 22 and 14. 2 davs.
27 and 28 fr. — III. 1 dav, 20 and U, I1/.2 dav, 2G and 16, 2 davs, 30 and
20 fr. — IV. 11/2 day, 40"and 20. 2 days, 50 and 25 fr. - For the Ecrin.«,
dpscending on the same side, .50 and 25 fr. ; descending on the other side,
350 IV. Haute 52. COL DE LA LAUZE. Pelvoux Range
70 and 35 fr. — For the Meije Occidentale , 80 and 40 fr. , less if tbe
tourist does not go as far as the summit. — Return-fees (p. 345) 3-10 fr. ;
comp. the tariff.
I. From St. Christophe.
In addition to that of La Larey (see ahove) , tliere are two other re-
fuges in the vicinity of St. Christophe for walks and ascents, viz. the
*Refuge du Lac yoir (9185 ft.) and the Refuge de la Selle (8810 ft.), the former
31/2-4 hrs. to tlie N. (see below), the latter about the same distance to
the N.E. (see below).
*To THE Glacier de Mont-de-Lans and the Col de la Laiize
VIA THE Lac Noir, returning by the valley of the Selle. The Col de la
Lauze is one of the most beautiful passes in these mountains, and
though generally reached from La Grave (p. 336) is also oiie of the
excursions from St. Christophe. It is better to go via the Lac Noir
and return via the valley of the Selle. The entire round takes about
12 hrs., but it may be divided between two days by sleeping at one
of the refuges, that of the Lac Noir being preferable. About 1 hr.
might be saved by coming back the same way , but it is hard work
crossing the glaciers late in the day. It is still shorter to descend
to La Grave (3 hrs.). A guide is necessary (tariff 2). The path, half-
way up the hill-slopes, to the N.W. of St. Christophe. leads via
Lc Fuys, and then turns to the N. and N.E. , passing to the AV. of
the Te^c du Toura (9573 ft.; ^'4 hr. from the refuge; easy), and de-
scends to the (3^/4 hrs.) Lac Noir (9185 ft.), a deeply embosomed
little lake, above which is the *Refuge of the same name built by
the French Alpine Club. Passing below the Jnndri (10.800 ft.:
IVjIii'-; easy) we soon reach the v;ist *Glacier de Mont-de-Lans,
the largest in Dauphin^, measuring about 5 M. in length and 2 M.
in width. We cross it without difficulty, and in 3 hrs. reach the
*Col de la Lauze (11,330 ft.), a slight depression to the W. of the
Fie de la Grave (12.050 ft.; I'/j-^ In-s. from the Col; difficult).
There is an extensive panorama from the pass itself; still better
from the signal, which is several feet higher. It extends as far as
Mont Blanc and Mte. Rosa and includes a fine view of the Alps of
Dauphine. The pass has been compared to that of the Alphubel,
in Sw^itzerland. the .\iguille de la Meije (p. 354) being a worthy
rival of the peak of the Matterhorn. The descent takes 2 hrs. (ascent
4 hrs.), by a steep and fatiguing couloir to the Refuge de la Selle
(8810 ft.) belonging to the Dauphin^ Tourist Society. This is
situated on the right bank of the Glacier de la Selle, while on the
other bank rises the Plaret (see below). Another hour of rapid descent
leads to the bottom of the uninteresting Vnlton de la Selle. A mule-
track skirts the Ruisseau du Diable. between the .land ri and the
Tete du Toura, on the right, and the .\iguille du Plat on the left (see
below). In 2 hrs. we reach St. Christophe.
*To THE Aiguille DU Pl.\t, 51/4-5V2 hrs., difficult; tariff 3. We
begin to ascend almost immediately, to the E., by steep slopes to
the (2 1/2 hrs.) Glacier du Plat, and crossing the glacier reach the
and its Environs. \lG\]lhLED¥.S ARIAS. lV.Ronte52. 351
(1 V2 hr.) ardte on the S.W. of the Plat, at the side of the Tete de
Graou. Following the arete we attain the summit in 1-1 '/4 hr. more.
The *Aiguille du Plat or Plat de la Selle (11,815 ft.) commands one
of the most interesting and most complete panoramas of the Dau-
phine Alps. — Tete du Graou, see p. 35'3.
To tlie Roche de la Muzelle (11,350 ft.), about 81/a hrs., a difficuU ascent,
and even dangerous wheu the rocks are covered with hoar-frost : tarifl'3.
We pass through the hamlet of (21/2 hrs.) Enchatra or Lanchdtra (4(555 ft.),
which is a better starting-point, as it shortens the walk, and ascend
the ravine of the Pisse, as far as the (81/4 hrs.) Glacier du Vallon (7060 ft.).
Thence we mount over rocks and the glacier, to theX.W., to the (li/o hr.)
foot of the Roche, ascend through couloirs to the ridge on the N.E., and
follow the latter to the (1 hr.) summit. The Roche , itself a remarkable
mountain , commands one of the mo.st beautiful panoramas of the Oisans
on account of its sentinel-like position to the W. of the Ecrins and Meije.
To the Tete de Loranoure or Lauranoiire (10,960ft.), 4i/.j hrs., labo-
rious; tarifif 3. Crossing the Vene'on to tlie S., we pass on the other side
to the (1 hr.) chalets of the Alpe du Pin (5945 ft.), and ascend direct across
pastures to the W. extremity of the (13/4 hr.) Glacier du Pierroux (9430 ft.),
which is crossed without difficulty. Thence the ascent of the peak takes
about 2 hrs. There is a wide and magniticent panorama, as from all the
summits facing the semicircle formed by the chain of the Ecrins and
tlie Meije.
To the Aiguille or Bee du Canard (10,730 ft.), 71/2-8 hrs., 41/0 hrs. from
La Lavey, rather difticult : tarifl' 3. This peak is to the W. of the refuge.
There is a narrow ridge to be crossed between two precipices, then a
couloir near the top. The great chain is seen in detail.
The Aiguille des Arias (11,155 ft. ; 71/2-8 hrs. ; tarifl' 4) is difficult. From
the (1 hr.) Alpe du Pin (see above) we turn to the S. E. in to the (1 hr.)
Combe de la Mariande and follow the right bank of the stream to the
Glacier de la Mariande, to the (2 hrs.) top of which we ascend. Thence
we proceed by a snow couloir to the S.E. to the (1^/4 hr.) Col des Arias,
a gap to the \V. of the Aiguille. We now descend a little to the Glacier
de Grand- Vallon, and turn to the N.E. to scale the other slope of the
peak. We cross (1/2 hr.) a 'bergschrund', climb some steep rocks, and
attain the (2/4 hr.) arete on the S.W. , nearly 1 hr. below the summit.
The view is better than that from the Aiguille du Canard, which is inter-
rupted on the S.W. by the Aiguille des Arias. — From the top of the
Olacier de la Mariande we may proceed to the S.W. to the (8/4 hr.) Col
de la Mariande , whence we descend in 3 hrs. to the D(sert-en-Valjouffre>j
(Inn; guide), in the valley of the Bonne. It is also possible to descend
thither direct from the summit.
To the Uontagne de I'Ours (9990 ft.), about. 51/2 hrs., easy and safe;
tarifl" 2. We ascend the Valley of the Lavey for some distance, turn to
the left at a ravine, and mount over rocks and through a cheminee to
the (41/2 hrs.) Col de VOurs, to the S. of the mountain. 1 hr. below the
summit, from which there is a good view. — Tlie Pointe Lemercier
(10,580 ft.), also called Pointe Sord des Tetes du Crouzet or Bessonnes,
to the S. of the Col de I'Ours, may be ascended from the col in 20min.
— The Pointe Jeanne or Pointe fiud (10,645 ft.) is ascended in 1/2 hr. from
the Col da Crouzet. The latter, situated to the S., is reached by ascend-
ing the valley of the Lavey still farther and then proceeding via the
glacier (about 5 hrs. from St. Christophe). — We may descend to the E.
bv the' (2 hrs.) VaVon des Etages, and thence gain (1-1V-' hr.) Les Stages
(p. 349), to the N., and La Bharde (p. 349).
To the *T6te des Ffetoules ( i 1 .365 ft.), 6','2-7 hrs., 'd^U-l hrs. from
La Lavey. The ascent is easy except at one point on the arete where
those subject to giddiness will find some difficulty ; tariff 3. We
ascend to the ¥.. to the (2 hrs. 20 min.) Glacier des Fe'toides. which
352 IV. Route 52. TETE DE LA MAYE. Pelvoux Range
has crevasses in its lower part; then to the left, by the rocks and
the moraines of the right bank, and up hard snow, to the (35 min.)
Col des Fe'toules {i.0,530 ft.), on the S. of the summit, which is
reached by the arete above the Valloii glacier. Fine panorama.
The Tete de I'Etret (11,690ft.), a little farther to the S., is difficult;
tarift' 3. From La Lavey it is ascended in 5-51/") hrs., via the (21/4 hrs.)
Glacier and the (IV3 hr.) Col de la Lareii. — The Aiguille d'Olan (11,100 ft.),
to the right at the end of the valley, is difficult and dangerous, especially
from this side; taritV 4. It is ascended in 5 hrs. from the refuge, via the
(3 hrs.) Glacier ties Selletten, some steep rocks, and a couloir. Restricted
view. — The Pic d'Olan (11,740 ft.), more to the S., is very dangerous.
We ascend in about 71 /i; hrs. from the refuge, via the (4 hrs.) Col cVOlan,
or better, if there is snow, from La Chapelle-en-Valgodemar (see below>.
To La Chapelle-kk-Valgodemar via the Col des Sellettes , 12-
I21/.2 hrs., difficult, especially when the crevasses of the glaciers are not
bridged bv snow; tariff 3. We ascend via la Lavey and the Glacier de$
Sellettes (see above) to the (9 hrs.) Col des Sellettes (lOi-^OO ft.), between
the Pic d'Olan and the Cime dii Vallnn (11,215 ft.). There is another
small glacier on the other side. — La ChapeUe-en-Valgodemar (-Gueydan'!!
Inn) is in the bottom of the valley, on the left bank of the Severaisse.
(ruides, Philomeii Vincent of Les Navettes, Louis Afartin of Le Bourg, and
P. Galand of Le Casset. A public conveyance plies to (I6V2 M.) Corps
(p. 338). — About 2 hrs. higher up this valley is Le Clot (see below).
To Le Clot-en-Valgodemae via the Col de la Muande, IO1/2-II hr.*;.,
fairly easy, when there is snow; tariff 2. In 71/0 hrs., via La Lai-ey and
the Glacier de la Muande, we reach the Col de la Huande (10,070ft.). to the
S. of the glacier. The descent (2 hrs.) leads to the S. E. to Le Clot-en-
Valgodemar (4600 ft.; Inn kept by the guides Armand), also on the Seve-
raisse. — The difficult ascent of "the Sirac (11,280 ft.; 6l/-> hrs. ; e.xtensive
view)', to the S.E., is usually made from Le Clot. — The Col du Says
(11,290 ft.) and the Col du Loup (10,210 ft.), which connect the Valgodemar
with La Be'rarde and Vallouise, to the N. and E. of the Clot, are difficult
and laborious passes. - Col des Routes and Col du C/iardon, see p. 357;
Col du Sellar, p. 359.
For other expeditions from St. Christophe (Meije, etc.), see La Berarde
and La Grave, p. .362.
II. From La Berarde.
There are three refuges in the neighbourhood of La Be'rarde, viz. the
''liefuge du Carrelet (6560 ft.), liA^hr. to the S.E., in the valley of the Ve'-
neon; the Refuge du Chdtellei-et '(1220 (t.) . 2 hrs. to the N., in the lonely
Etanjons valley ; and the Refuge de la Bonne-Pierre (8430 ft. ; damp), 21/2 hrs.
to the N.E., to the N. of tlie glacier of that name. - Guides and Tariffs,
p. .349. — See above for excursions common to the two localities.
To the **T§te de la Maye (8275 ft.), about 2 hrs. , an easy ex-
pedition , for which a guide is unnecessary; tariff 1. We cross the
Etan^ons stream below the hamlet, and turning to the right, at
a guide-post, ascend the valley to (20 min.) a point where the
path forks. We ascend the E. slope of the mountain, to the left, by
a narrow zigzag path, more or less distinct (edelweiss), keeping to-
wards the height to the S.W., then to the N. , and finally ascending
a cheminee by means of steps. Splendid *View. This view -point
has been compared to the Gornergrat, near Zermatt, and to the
Faulhorn, near Grindelwald. At the head of the EtauQons valley
rises the Meije, with its .lagged crest; then, from left to right, a
nearer group with the Grande-Huine. the Tete de Chnrriere, and the
find Us Environs. PLARET. IV. lioute b'l. 353
l{oche d'Alvau ; the Eciins , farther back; and the Ailefroide. still
farther. — From the Maye to the liouget, see below.
y.B. Besides the Tete de la 3Iaye, travellers who do not care to make
great ascents should at least visit the ^Glacier de la Pilatte (p. 358: ta-
rift' 1) as far as the higher branches (V4-1V4 1"". from the Refuge du Car-
relet). The torrents are often difficult to cross in the evening. — The
Glacier du Chardon also repays a visit. It lies lV2-2hrs. from la He'rarde
at the end of the little valley branching to the right at the foot of the
Tete de t'heret (p. 357j.
The T^te du Graou (10,405 ft.), about 6hrs., tolerably easy; tariffs.
We follow the road to St. Christophe to beyond (Ihr.) Les Eiages, ascend
to the N. bv the vallev of the Ruissean d'Enhaut (Damou) , and thence
to the W.N.W. via the Col de Graou, to the S. of which rises the Tete
de Afarsare (10,230 ft. ; ascended in 1 hr. from the eol). The view from
the high ground to the N. of the col is also attractive. We nxay descend
from the col in 3 hrs. to St. Christophe (p. 349). — To the Tete du Rouget
(11,230 ft.), 7 hrs. , fatiguing and not easy; tarilf4. The ascent is made
via the (2 hrs.) Tfie de la Maye (see above), the (Ihr.) Tete de VAure
(8885ft.), and the lioc/ie Blanche, which are, as it were, buttresses of the
mountain. — Farther along this same crest rises the Pic Gent/ (11.270 ft.).
The line 'V^iew is more extensive than that from the Maye. — To the
Plaret (11.170 ft.), 3 hrs., not very diflicult; tarilV 3. The ascent is made
viil the left bank of the Vallon d'es Rtaii(;ons and the (23/4 hrs.) Glacier du
Plaret, bearing to the left. The *View from the top comprises the Glacier
lie Mont-de-Lans, the Ilateau, theJIeije, tlie rocky walls of the Grande-Ruine,
the Ecrins, Ailefroide, the magnificent Glacier de la Pilatte, the Clochatel
group, the Rouies, Olan, etc. — To the T4te de la Gandolifere (11,645 ft.),
on the N.E. of the Plaret , 8-9 hrs. This excursion also presents no ser-
ious difficulty, e.xcept at the rocks near the top; tarilV 3. The path is
the same as that just described as far as the Glacier du Plaret, from which
we proceed to the N. The view is of the same kind. — To the Kateau
(12,315 ft.), 7-71/2 hrs., difficult; tarilV 4. We proceed via (IV2 hr.) Le
Cfuitelleret to the (V4 h>'.) foot of the mountain, whence, turning to the
left, we make for the (23/4 hrs.) S. arete. In I1/2 hr. more we join the
E. arete and attain the summit 1/2 !"'• later. The last snow cornice is
rather dangerous. The view from the summit is very extensive. The
descent by the E. side is very difficult and dangerous. By this side La
Grave is reached in about 6 hrs. . but it is better to ascend from there.
— Bridie de la Meije, see p. 364.
To THE Meije, Grand Pic or Pie Occidental. 1 day from Le C7i«-
telleret (see above), a very difficult and dangerous ascent, accord-
ing to the few mountaineers who have accomplished it, owing to
a succession of difttculties, each harder than its forerunner. At the
most difficult points the rate of ascent is not more than 200 ft.
and of the descent only 230 ft. an hour. Special tariff (see p. 349).
[n about 1 hr. from the refuge we reach the Glacier den Etaufons,
the ascent of which is easy ; '/^hr. thence is a projecting rock, or
promontory, and 40 min. farther the Carrefour, at the foot of the
Graiid-CoiUoir, where the real ascent begins. A difficult climb of
l'/.2 hr. brings us to the Pyramide Duhamel, then 3'/2 hrs. more to the
Glacier Carre , just beyond the dangerous Pas du Chat , a narrow
ledge that must be crossed on all fours. Fortunately at the foot of the
glacier there is another cornice which permits of a rest, at 1\'^ hrs.
from the refuge. Tlie glacier is crossed in 1 Jir., without difficulty.
The final climb of l'^ hr. by rocks presents no serious difficulty,
except the last 10 min. to the Cheval Rouge and the Tete du Copu-
Baedeker. Southern France. 2o
354 IV. Route 52. MEIJE. Pelvoux Range
cin, especially if there is snow. The ascent takes 10-11 hrs. alto-
gether. The *Meije (13,080 ft.) is the third summit of the Pelvoux
group, ranking after the Ecrins and the Pic Lory, but it is the hard-
est to climb. It has three peaks: the Fie Oriental (12,830 ft.).
black on the Berarde side but of a dazzling whiteness towards La
Grave; the Pic Central (13,02.5 ft.), slender and graceful, 'so fragile
in appearance compared with the other peaks, that it looks as though
the first gust of wind would carry it away, and leaning towards the
Glacier des Etan<;ons in a way that makes one both wonder and
shudder' (Coolidge) : and the Pic Occidental (13,080 ft.) , joined to
the preceding by a serrated ridge, 'enough to make those despair
who wish to cross it". On this ridge Dr. Eniil Zsigmondy lost his
life in 1885. The Meije has been compared to the famous Matter-
horn, but it remained unconquered 3 years longer. M. Boileau de
Castelnau was the first who reached the top , in 1877 , by the S.
side, with P. Gaspard and his son as guides. The ascent from La
Grave is still more difficult. - - The panorama is of course most
extensive and splendid, and similar to that from the Ecrins (see
below), the Melje being only about 380 ft. lower. — The descent is
as difficult as the ascent and requires, if possible, even more care, as
is the case in most excursions of this kind. It may also be made on
the La Grave side, but then is longer and no easier: 2 hrs. to the
glacier ; 20 rain, to the foot of the glacier ; S'/a hrs. to the Pyramide
Duhamel; 1^|^ hrs. to the end of the rocks; 1 hr. 35 min. (ascent)
to the Breche de la Meije (p. 364), whence the ordinary path is taken ;
5V4 hrs. to La Grave (15 hrs. in all; p. 336).
To the Pav6 (12,570 ft.), to the E. of the Pic Oriental of the Meije,
about 6 hrs. from ie Clidtelleret, a difficult climb; tariff 3. As far as the
(2V4 lirs.) Col du Pave ^ see p. 356. Thence we ascend by a snoW slope
towards the \V. (3/^ hr.), a ehemiuee on the right, and the (II/2 hr.) S.
arete. The view is limited on the E. by the Pic Gaspard (p. 363) and on
the N. by the Meije, but the Pave is the nearest lieight on the S. side of
the latter mountain and therefore the best view-point for it. — To the
Tete de Charriere (11,293 ft.), 41/0 hr,"!. The only part of the ascent which
is difficult is from the Breche to the top: tarill'3. We skirt the left bank
of the Etancons brook to the (ll/o hr.) Vallon de la Bonne-Pierre^ climb
for .some time over the moraine to the N.E. and N. to the (n/:> hr.) glacier,
and over the latter (1/4 hr.) to (1 hr.) the Breche de Charriere (10,7(X) ft.).
Tbence it takes nearly 1 hr. to climb tlie peak, which rises to the left. The
descent may be made from the lireche to the Refuge de VAlpe (about 4 hrs. :
p. 362), etc."— The lioche d'Mvau (11,595 ft.) and the Roche Fan rio (12,190 ft.),
to the N. and N.E. of the Glacier de la Uonne-Pierre, are two difficult
and more or less dangerous peaks, ascended from the Refuge in 3 and
5 hrs. respectively.
*To the Barke des Ecrins, T^/z-S hrs. from the Refuye du Car-
relet, an excursion of the first rank, btit without serious difficulties
for those who are sure-footed and do not suffer from giddiness.
Special tariff (see p. 349). The ascent was first made from the
IS. side, which is perhaps the finest, but now the S. side is prefer-
red, as being easier because rock there takes the place of ice and a
rope has been provided ; the descent may at any rate be made on
and its Environs. BARRE DES ECRINS. IV. Route 52. 355
the N. side. We ascend at first to the E., to the (1 V4 lii"-) Glacier dii
Vallun, and thence to the (P/4 hr.) Col des Avalanches (11,845 ft. 1.
from which there is a grand view of the Ecrins. After that the climb
begins, by couloirs and the Rocher-Blanr, before coming to which
there is a difficult passage, more than 300 ft. above the Glacier Noir.
now made safer by a rope (1 hr.). The ascent becomes less difficult.
The arete is reachfed and crossed, and we enter on the (lV4lir.) small
Glacier des Ecrins. where we pass above a formidable abyss and across
a difficult barrier of rocks. We regain the arete between the PicLor\
(see below) and the summit of the Ecrins, about 2 brs. from the foot
of the glacier. The *Barre des Ecrins (13,460 ft.) is the highest
summit of the Pelvoux group and of all Dauphine, as well as its
finest point of view. Around it are grouped 42 glaciers, 12 vallejs,
and more than 130 peaks of which the average height exceeds
10,000 ft. The intervals between these peaks permit a distant view
which extends as far as the mountains of the Bernese Oberland, and
those of Savoy, the Gran Paradiso , the Matterhorn , Monte Rosa,
Monte Viso , the Maritime Alps, the Cevennes , the mountains of
Auvergne, and the Jura. — In descending by the N. side (see above),
we pass to the E. of Pic Lory (13,395 ft.), the most elevated of the
group next to the Barre des Ecrins, and to the E. of the Dome dc
Neiye (13,055 ft.) to reach the (3 hrs.) Col des Ecrins (p. 361), from
which the descent may be made on the W. to the (l'/4 hr.) Refuge
de la Bonne-Pierre (p. 352) or to Vallouise (p. 359).
To the Fifre (12,235 It.), the nearest summit on the S. of the Barro
des Ecrins, and called also the Pointe tie Balme-Rousse, about 51/0 hrs., a
toilsome ascent, irom /.« Carrelet: tariff 3. We proceed first to the (3 hrs).
Col des Avalanches (see above) , then over loose rocks to the S. slope oC
the \V. arete (l/'-j hr.), which descends towards the Vallon glacier; then
by this ridge (lirect to the (2 hrs.) summit, from which there is a magni-
ficent view, especially of the S. side of the Ecrins and the incomparable
cirque of the Glacier Noir. -- To the Pic Coolidge (12,32U ft.), 4 hrs. from
Le ('arrelet, difficult: tariff 3. We climb a spur of thi' peak between thi-
basin of the Vallon. on the N., and the basin of La Temple, on the S.,
skirting the former for 1 hr., and then proceed to the right in the direc-
tion of the Col de la Temple, as far as the point where the glacier divides
('Replat de la Temple'). We then bear to the left to (1 hr. lOinin.) thear?te
which joins the Ecrins to the Ailefroide (see below), and gain the sum-
mit in 35 min. more. The detailed view of the Ecrins across the inter-
vening abyss is very fine and that of the whole range is one of the best
obtainable. There are precipices on all sides except the S.E.
To ViLLARD-D'AuiiNE OR TO La Grave. — The cols that are
most practicable from the La Berarde side are here described ; for
the others, see p. 364. Expeditions via the Refuge du Chatellcrct
(p. 352) and the Refuge dc I'Alpe take 2-1 V2 hrs. less if the start is
made from the former or the finish at the latter. About V2 '•'• extra
is required to reach La Grave from the Alpe instead of stopping .it
Villard-d'Arene. — I. *Via the Col du Pavi^:, about 10 hrs. : tarifT2.
This is one of the most interesting and easiest passes in tlie Pel-
voux group. From Le Chdtelleret we continue to climb to the N.,
via the Glacier des Etanpons (p. 353), in view of the Meije. in the
23*
356 IV. Route 5-2. COL DES AIGLES. Pelvoux Range
direction of the Bieche (p. 364), to the foot of the magnificent wall
of the Meije ; then to the right over a rather steep glacier , coming
down from the Pave, to the (4^/4 hrs.) Col du Pav6 or de Castelnait
(11,465 ft.), a gap in the ridge to the S. of the Pav^ (p. 354).
Thence the descent is made without difficulty hy a snow-couloir,
to the (I'/j hr.) Glacier du Clot-des-Cavales, to the S.E. , and by
the moraine to the (1 hr.) Refuge de VAlpe, 2 hrs. from Villard-
d'Arene and 2'/2 hrs. from La Grave (p. 336). — II. Via the Coi>.
DES Chamois, 9'/a-10 hrs.. of medium difficulty; tariff 2. From Le
Chdtelleret we proceed to the N.E., to a (2'/4 hrs.) snow-couloir,
ascend this couloir, and cross a large bergschrund to the (^/4 hr.) Col
des Chamois (10.335 ft.), farther S. than the preceding in the ridge
which begins at the Pave. Thence another snow-couloir leads to
the moraine of the (1 hr.) Glacier du Clot-des-Cavales. to the S.E.,
and to the (1 hr.) Refuge de VAlj^e, etc. — III. Via. the Col des
AiGLES, lO'/a hrs.. rather difficult ; tariff 2. From Le Chdtelleret we
proceed first in the direction of the Col des Chamois (see above), then
to the right over fairly easy rocks and up an ice-couloir to the
(3V2 hr.) Col des Aigles (10,300 ft.). Thence we descend over rather
steep rocks to the (^'4 hr.) Glacier du Clot-des-Cavales, on the E.,
and by this glacier and its moraine to the (2hvs.) Refuge de I'Alpe, etc.
— IV. *ViA the Col du Clot-des-Cavales, O'/a'iO hrs. , easy;
tariff 2. The journey is less fatiguing but longer in the reverse di-
rection (p. 364). From Le Chdtelleret we ascend due E., over fairly
easy rocks, and then over unuaines and up a snow -couloir to the
(3 hrs.) Col du Clot-des-Cavales (10,260 ft.), above the glacier of that
name, and descend by this glacier, on the E., to the (2 hrs.) Refuge,
de VAlpe, etc. - V. Vi.i the Col be la Grande-Ruine, lO-lO'/a hrs..
not difficult ; tariff 2. About '/.^ hr. may be saved by not going quite
as far as the Chatelleret Refuge. In that case we follow the Vallon
des Etan<;ons as far as the (I'/ghr.) torrent which descends from the
Grandr-Ruine, the summit beyond the Tete de Charriere (p. 354). and
ascend to the N.E. by easy slopes to the (2 hrs.) moraine on the
right of the glacier to the N.W. of the Grande-Ruine. We then
ascend over the rocks on the E. to the (2 hrs.) Col de la Grande-
Rnine (10,300 ft.) which, however, is not so near to the summit from
whii'h it takes its name as the Breche C.iraud-Lezin, a more recently
discovered pass (see below). "We descend to the (1 lir.) Glacier du Clot-
des-Cavales. whidi is much crevassed on this side, and thence to the
(1 hr.) Refuge dc IWlpe. etc. — VI. Via the Erixhe Giraud-Lezin.
15-16 hrs., difficult; tariff 2. The route is the same as the preceding
asfar as th(^3'/2hrs.) moraine, then t(i the right, across the glacier,
whi(;h has crevasses, to a(l'/4lir.) cnuldir. and thence over diffi-
cult rocks to the (3-4 hrs.) Br6che Giraud-L6zin (11,805 ft.). The
descent is easier and is made by the side of the (% hr.) Glacier de
la Plate-des-Agueau.r , along the left side of which we reach the
(2^/4 lirs.;) Refuge de I'Alpe. etc. — Vll. ''Via the Col de la Casse-
aiidiU Earirons. TKTK DE ClIKUHT. I V. lioute 52. 357
Ueseete, 11V2" 12 hrs., fairly easy, with which the iiiagniflceii
ascent of the Grar\de-IUuii(> may be eoiubiiied ; tariff 2 (for the col)'
The route is the same as for the two preceding passes as far as the
I'o'/j hrs.) top of the moraine , and then by the glacier (crevasses),
bearing more to the right, and by a snow-couloir. From the (2V2 brs.)
Col de la Casse-D6serte(l 1,515 ft.), between the {irande-Kuine(p.363)
and the Tete de Charriere (p. 354), we descend to the (1 hr.) Glacier
de la Plnte-des-Afineaux and the (2 hrs.) Refuge de I'Alpe, etc.
To tho Grande-Aiguille (11,223 ft.), to the S.W. of La Uerarde, beyond
the Ve'ne'on, 5 lirs. . toilsome: taritV 3. Tliis is a monotonous ascent, by
tlie N.W. fact" of the mountain, ovei- loose stones and rocks. — To the
Rocher de Lancula (11,605 ft.) , about 7 hrs.; tarilV3. The ascent is monoto-
nous, but not diflicuU, via the Vallon des Etages, as far as the (6 hrs.) Col
de Lancula (11,170 ft.), to the S. of the peak, whence it becomes more
interesting. Between the col and the summit there is a small clieuiine'e.
The 'View is niagnilicent. Tlie descent may be made on the K. into the
valley of the Ve'ne'on. — To the Cime de Glochatel (11,730 ft.), about 6i/o hrs.,
fatiguing; tarift' 3. We prolong the preceding route to the (2 hrs.) Glacier
-ilu Vallon, turn to the left towards (3/4 In".) a projecting rock, and reach
(U/a br.) the rocks at the base of the crest, whence we gain the top in
2 hrs. more. The *View hence also is very fine. We may descend on
the E. side, whence tlie ascent may also be made.
To Le Ci-ot-en-Valgodkmai: (p. 352). — 1. Via the Coi. ues Rolies
wnu ascent of the Kouies, lO-ll hrs. . fatiguing and i.'ven dangerous
when there is much snow ; tariff 3. The ascent is made via the Glacier
du Chardon and the Glacier des Kouies. The (51/2 hrs.) Col des Kouies
Uibout 10,823 ft.) is at the head of tlie valley of I.a I.avey (p. 352), between
the Vaxirier (see below) and the Rouies (11,920 ft.). The ascent of the
latter takes about 1^/4 hr. from the col, via the N. or llie N.E. arete. The
•view from this pass resembles that from the C'ol de la l.,auze (p. 350).
— II. Via the Col du CIlAI!T)o^■, 7i/o-8 1irs.; tarilf 2. This ascent is also
made via the Glacier du Cliardon , towards the middle of wliich we bear
to the left in the direction of tlie (about 5 hrs.) Col du Chardon (10,145 ft.),
between the E. peak of the. t'cf-n'rie ;•( 10.860 ft .) , on the right, and the
Pic du Says (11,185 ft.), on the left.
To the Tete de Chfiret (10,365ft.), about 51/2 hrs. , diflicuU; taritl 2.
Kroni the (U /•_. hr.) Refuge de Carrelet we proceed to the (3/4 br.) Glacier
de la I'ilaite (p. 358), which we .«kirt for some time on the right, after
which we climl) the rocks on the right and beyond them grassy slopes
and (21/2 hrs.) a small glacier. We still keep to the right above this
glacier and at length by a (!/•> hr.) small snow-couloir reach the summit,
whence there is a grand *View of the Pelvou.x range. Tlie descent (3 hrs.)
is by the S. arete to a small col, and down a somewhat diflicuU chemiue'e
to the Glacier da Chardon, from which there is an easy footpath. — To
the Pics du Says (11,390 ft. and 11,185 ft.), about hrs., diflicuU. We follow
the preceding route to the (21/4 hrs.) Glacier de la I'ilatte, ascend the glacier
to the S.W. (li/4lir.), and then turn to the X.W. to tlie (V2 '""•) base of
the peaks. Then we climb eitlier by a snow-couloir to tlie (V4 •""•) ^'■
arete , 1 hr. below the summit , or by rocks to the S. arete. The *View
is even liner than that from the Tete de Cheret. — To Les Bans (11,990 ft.),
U-61/.> hrs. of ascent from Carrelet and about the same time in descending:
very"dif(icult; tarilf 4. We iiroeeed via the Glacier de la Pilatte (p. 35S)
to (2 hrs.) its upper plateau or Grand Cirque, beyond which there arc
large crevasses to crr)ss. In 2 hrs. we reach the Col des Bans, and in 2 hrs.
more gain the top via the rocks on the N.E. slope, a snow riilge , some
ice slopes, and the dif/icult K, arete.
To Vallouise. — I. Via the Col de la Temple, ll-liVa hrs.
(4V2-5 hrs. ascent), the easiest route from this side; tariff 2. We
may shorten the journey by IVjlir. by starting from Le Carrelet,
358 IV. Route 52. COL DE LA TEMPLE. Pehoux Range
ami we may halt on the other side at the Refuge Cezanne, 2V4I11S.
from Vallouise. From Le C'arrelet we ascend the Comhe du Yallon,
on the left bank, then (^'3 hr.) turn to the right in the direction
of the Glacier de la Temple, which we strike near its upper part
(P/4-- Ins.) , and cross it to the E. (crevasses) to the (V4-I t>r.)
Col de la Temple (10,770 ft.), to the N. of the Pic de la Temple
(10,870 ft.; ascnded in V2 hr. from the col). From the col we
enjoy a beautiful mountain retrospect, while in front of us, beyond
the Glacier Noir, rises the Pelvoux. We descend to the (^/4 hr.)
Glacier Noir by a stony slope and a rocky couloir, and cross it
to the left, at the foot of the crags of the Ecrins. We quit the
moraine in 2'/2 hrs. from the col; ^'2 h''- later reach the stony
desert known as the Pre' de Madame-Carle (6080 ft.), and in 2/4 hr.
more arrive at the Refuge Ce'zanne. Ailefroide is '/, hr. farther,
l''/4hr. from Vallouise (see below).
IL Via the Col de la Coste-Rocge, about 8 hrs. (3 hrs. ascent),
the shortest route, but more fatiguing than the preceding, with which
it is partly identical; tariff "2. From Le Carrelet we proceed to
the N.E. to tlie (I'/a'l^A '"'•) Glacier de la Coste-Rouge, which we
cross to the (1 hr.) Col de la Coste-Rouge (10,345 ft.), to the S. of the
Pic de la Temple. Thence we descend by a snow couloir to the
Glacier Noir, rejoining tlie preceding route 2-2*/2 hrs. from the Pre'
de Madame-Carle.
III. Via the Col de l'Ailefroide, lO'/a-H hrs. from Le Car-
relet , fatiguing ; tariff 2. We ascend to the ( ^/^ hr. ) magnificent
*Glacier de la Pilatte, the grandest in Dauphin^, and mount to
(V2 hr.) its first platform; thence we turn to the E. and ascend over
rocks, eventually very steep, to the (3'/2 hrs.) summit of the Col de
l'Ailefroide (10,845 ft.), to the S. of xh^ Ailefroide (p. 360). We
descend by tlie (lV4hr-) Glacier du Se'le', where there is a large
bergschrund ; then by the lonely valley of La Sapeniere to t\ie(i^/2 hr.)
Refuge Puiseux and to (I'^hr. ) Ailefroide {see above). — The
expedition is more difficult in the reverse direction, and not qujte
I'ree from danger in descending the rocks on the S. side.
IV. Via the Col du Sele, about 11 hrs. from Le Carrelet, not
difficult; tariff 2. We ascend to the Glacier de la Pilatte. and skirt
it for a good while on the E. , to the (4'/2 hrs.) Col du S6l6 (10,830
ft,), between the Pointe du 5/ie' (11.425 ft. ; ascent of I'^hr. from
the col) and the Crete des Baufs-Rouges (11,330ft.; I'/jhr. from
the col; p. 359% We descend also by the Glacier du Se'le, which
generally has crevasses, to (2'/4hrs.) the Refuge Puiseux and (IV4
hr.) Ailefroide, etc.
V. A'^iA the Col de la Pilatte, 10 hrs. from Le Carrelet, diffi-
cult and dangerous; tariff 3. The descent from the Col de la Pi-
latte (11,300ft.), which at first requires great caution, leads to
(S'/jhrs.) Entraigues (p. 359), in the Vallon des Bans. — Via the
Col des Ecrins, J see p. 361.
and its Environs. VALLOUISE. IV. Route 52. SjO
c. Excursions from Vallouise.
Vallouise or Ville- Valluuise (about 3900 ff. ; *Hutel des Ecrins,
moderate) is a considerable village, not far from the station of L'Ar-
gentiere-la-Bessee on the line from Gap to BrianQon (p. 343). It is
accessible also by a carriage-road. It has thus become an impor-
tant centre for excursions, although it is not very near the chief
summits of the Pelvoux group, and commands but a limited view.
The church is interesting.
AilefroiUe (p. 360) , which is 2 hr.s. higher up . would be preferable
a« a centre if it had ;an inn. The Fr. Alp. Club has partly supplied
this want bv building or improving the following useful refuges: the
liejugePiiiseiix (7310 ft. ; p. 360) and the Rejnge de Provence (8935 ft. ; p. 360),
U '.J and 3hrs. respectivelv from .A.ilefroide, on the S.E. side of Pelvoux ;
thp Refuge Cezanne (.5900"ft.: p. 358). 3/^ hr. from Ailefroide , in the
valley of .St. Pierre: the Refuge or Abri Tuckett (8220 ft.; p. 361). 21/4-21/3
lirs. farther on, and the Refuge JoinvilU (52'JO ft. : p. 366), 4 hrs. to the N"!
Guides. Pierre Reymond, the Estiennes, P. Semiond, J. Bonnalaire ; and
I'ligilberge, of La Pi.'ise.
Tariff. I. (1st. class, see p. 345), 1/2 dav, guide 4. porter, 4 fr. ; 1 da>,
S and 6 fr. — U. 1 day, 15 and 10 fr., IV.j dav, 22 and 14 fr. ; 2 davs,
27 and 18 fr. — III. 1 day and II/2 dav , 25 and 15 fr. ; 2 davs , 32 and
24 fr. — Ascent of the Ecrins, 50 and 35 fr. — Return-fees (p. ;;45), 3-10 fr. -,
tlie tarilf should be asked for.
y.B. Tourists who shun diflieult expeditions ought at least to visit
tlie (5 hrs.) easily reached and splendid ^Glacier Blanc (p. 361), as far as
the upper plateau. The Col des Ecrins (p. 361) can be readily reached
from there (8-9 hrs.), the other side alone being difficult. From the col
one of the most marvellous glacier cirques among the Alps may be seen
and the Harre des Ecrins is in sight from base to summit. — The Col
Emile-Pic (p. 362) may also he climbed without serious difficulty, being
only dangerous on the opposite side. The view thence is still liner.
To the Pointe de I'Eygliere or Aif/Ulre (10,910 ft.), to the S.W.,
about o'/.2 hrs., tolerably easy ; tariff 2. We pass (40 min.) Puy -St.
Vincent, traverse a forest, and ascend a picturesque valley via the
(50 min.) Granges de yarreyrous , etc., to the (S'/.^ hrs.) Col de
I'Eygliere (^10,525 ft.), on the N. of the Pointe, which is climbed
in 20 min. from there and affords a splendid and extensive *View.
The descent is made to the W. of the last named col , by the valley
of the Se.lle, to (4'/4-4'/2 hrs.) Entraigues or Entre-les-Aigues
(o280ft. ; Chautard Inn), at the Junction of the Selle and the Bans.
which form the Onde. about 2 hrs. from Vallouise, via Be'assac, Les
(iresoiirieres, and Le VilUird.
To the Crete des Boeufa-Rouges (11,.330 It.), 7-71/2 hrs., a long but not
very difficulty ascent , following the glacier E. to the top; tarilf 2. The
way leads via Bi'assac (about 2 hrs. ; see below), and quits the Entraigues
route 1/2 hr. beyond that. View very beautiful but inferior to that from
the Eygliere. — We may ascend also from the Col du Sele, p. 3.58.
From Valloi-ise to the Valoodemar. — The Col du Sellar or Cilard
(10,070 ft.), which is reached via the Vallon des Hans, connects N'allouise
with the Valgodemar; to Le Clot (p. 352), about 9 hrs. from Ville-Vallouise.
The route is fatiguing but is not diflieult until later in summer. T)ie
col is situated between the Pic de Bonvoisin (11,505 ft.) . on the S. , and
the Pic des Opillous (11,500 ft.) on the N., the ascents of which are diffi-
cult (tarilf 3). The former is ascended in 21/2 hrs. from the Col du Loup
(see below), the latter in about 31/2 hrs. from the Col du Sellar. The
magniAcent "View embraces not only the Pelvou.x group, but also
360 IV. Route 52. MONT PELYOUX. Pelvoux Range
•he mountains of the upper valleys of the Drac and the Durance , and
those of the Queyras ; while the Sirac (see below), a short distance to
the S.W. , is imposing. — The Col du Loup de Valgodemar (p. 352), not
difficult from this side, is more to the S., on the W. of the Selle valley.
The top is 7 hrs. from Vallouise and S-Si/g hrs. from Le Clot. — Still
more to the S. is the Col du Sirac ((10,210 tl), dominated on the S. by
the Pic de Verdonne (10,910 ft.). The passage from Vallouise to Le Clot
takes lO-lOi/o hrs. (68/4-7 hrs. ascent), the descent to the Valgodemar being
also difficult. — The Sirac^ much farther to the S.W., see p. 352.
To Mont-Pelvoux. There are two principal routes from the Re-
fuge de Pruvenre (5 hrs. froui Vallouise), not very difficult for ex-
perienced climbers; tariff 3. We ascend the valley of the Gyr and
of the Ailefroide stream to (1 hr.) Les Claux, where we leave on the
right the Echauda valley (p. 367). Ailefroide (4940 ft.), 1 hr. far-
ther up by a fatiguing mule-track , is a poor hamlet at the foot of
the Pelvoux, at the junction of the Sapenitre and St. Pierre Valleys,
which bound the mountain on the S.W. and N.W. We proceed by
the former of these valleys, to the left, one of the dullest possible,
in which the bridle -road comes to an end 1 hr. farther. We then
leave the bottom of the valley and ascend to the right to the (V2 tr.)
Refuge Puiseux (7310 ft.) , a shelter in the Grotte de Soureillan.
The ascent is continued in the direction of the Pelvoux , to the
(IVa tr.) Refuge de Provence (8935 ft.) , almost uninhabitable in
bad weather. The sunset viewed from this point is very grand. - Two
routes lead from these refuges. The older (about 4V2 hrs. in all)
passes via the ('/g hr.) Glacier du Clut-de-V Ilomme, a small glacier
in a couloir, full of crevasses, which must be crossed ('/.^ hr.). Then
follows a stiff climb up the Rochers- Rouges, where we have to be-
ware of falling stones , and in 2'/2"3 hrs. we reach a plateau of ice
and hard snow between the peaks of the Pelvoux , which has to be
crossed in order to gain the highest of them {^j^ hr.). — The second
route, about l-l'/z hr. shorter, avoids the Glacier du Clotde-
I'Homme. It ascends to the E. of that glacier to the Couloir Tuckett,
by which, or still better by the rocks on the right bank, we reach
the foot of the Petit -Pelvoux. — The Pelvoux (12,970 ft.), which
only ranks fourth in the chain of mountains to which it has given
its name (see p. 344). has three summits, viz. the Pointe Puiseiix
(12,970 ft.), the Pic de la Pyramide- Durand (12,920ft.), and the
Pe^i^- Pc^l'y^(.^• (12,240 ft.). The *View is magnificent, including
the great summits of the range (Ecrins, Meije, etc.), the Grandes-
Rousses, the beautiful Aiguilles d'Arves, Mont Blanc, Mont Pourri.
the Matterhorn, etc.
The Mont Salvador-Guillemin (12,845 ft.), to the \V. of the Pelvoux, about
.41/2 ^'■■■'- f''"m till' Hi'fuge de Provence, is difficult and even dangerous;
tarill'3. The same route is taken as for the Pelvoux to beyond the Glacier
du Clot-de-V Homme (1 hr.), then to the W., by another glacier, on the S. E.
of the peak (I/.2 hr.), near tlie end of which (I/2 hr.) we ascend a couloir
and some rocks, which is the dangerou.s part of the ascent, towards the
arete or a gap on the S.W. of the Pelvoux, and from there to the summit
whence there is a maguificent "Panorama. — To the Sommet de 1' Ailefroide
(12,645 ft.), 7 hrs. from the Re/uge Puiseux, rather difficult: tarilV 3. We
proceed to the W. to the (IV2 hr.) Glacier du SeU, thence to the N.W,
and its Environs. COL DE8 ECRINS. IV. Route 52. 361
(o the (I1/4 hr.) Glacier tie V.Ulefrnide. and by tliat glacier to the (2hrs.)
crest on the other side. Tlienee via (1 lir.) a snowy shoulder, and over rocks
and up couloirs, we reach the (11/4 hr.) chief summit. The Ailefroide
has three summits, tlie highest being to the W. Tlie E. summit (12,645 ft.)
is ascended in BiA_> hrs. from the S. , via a snow-couloir. Tlie view is
specially fine to the S., in the direction of Monte Viso.
To La Beuakde. — L Via the Col de la Templk (see also
p. 358), IIV2-I2 hrs., one of the most beautiful passes in Dauphiue,
without serious difficulty though somewhat fatiguing. We may
shorten it by sleeping at the Refuge Cezanne (p. 358) or by stopp-
ing on the descent at the Refuge du Carrelet (p. 352). — To Aile-
froide. see p. 360. Thence we ascend to the riglit through the
Vallon du Torrent de St. Pierre to the (^/^ hr.) Refuge Cezanne,
and (Vihr. more) the Pre de Madame- Carle (6080 ft.; p. 358).
AVe proceed by a disagreeable moraine to the (I'/, hr.) Glacier Noir,
at the foot of the threatening cliffs of the Ecrins , which rise to a
lieight of more than 3900 ft. above us. Crossing the glacier (easy"!
and ascending over difficult rocks and through a chemin^e, we
reach the (3 hrs.) *Col de la Temple (10,770 ft.), which commands a
very fine view. Thence the descent lies partly over the somewhat
steep and more or less crevassed Glacier de la Tetnple . the bottom
of which is reached in 1 hr. The Refvfie du Carrelet is reached
in 3 hrs. from the col; and thence w-e follow the Valley of the
Ve'neon to (1 hr.) La B('rarde (p. 349). — IL Via the Col des
Ecrins, about 11'/, hrs. (e'/jhrs. from the Refuge Tuckett) , diffi-
cult; tariff 3. From the (3'/2 hrs.) Pre' de Madame- Carle (see
above) we climb over difficult rocks to the (1'/.,- IV4hr-^ J^^fuge
Tuckett (8220 ft.), constructed under a rock on the bank of a lake
and near the Glacier Blanc (see below). Thence we ascend by rocks
and the Glacier Blanc and then by the Glacier de I'Encula to the
(3 hrs. ) Col des Ecrins ( 1 1 .205 ft. ) . a gap in the rocky arete wh ich unites
the Ecrins with the Roche Faurio (12,195 ft; abotit 1 hr. from the
col). The view is rather limited. The steep couloir of the Glacier
de la Bonne-Pierre leads down to (1^/4 hr.) the Refuge de la. Bonne-
Pierre, whence La Be'rarde is reached in l''/4 hr. (p. .349).
Via the Col de la Cosie- Rouge , see p. 358; via the Col du ,H^.U (longer
from this side than in the opposite direction), p. 358; via the Col de la
Pilatte, p. 358; via the Col de V Ailefroide^ p. 358.
To the Barre des Ecrins (N. side) , about 8 hrs. from the Refuge
Tuckett (see above), an expedition of the first rank, still more diffi-
cult than from La Berarde (p. .354): special tarifl'. We follow the
same route as above via the Glacier Blanc and Glacier de I'Encula.
to the (2 hrs.) foot of the Pterins, where tlie ascent properly speaking
begins. In 2 hrs. more a wide bergschrund is reached, which iscrosseil
by a snow bridge, beyond which is a very steep ice-slope entailing
much step -cutting, to some small black rocks, round which tlu^
way lies. Near the summit we reach a dangerous arete above the
Glacier Noir, by which the final peak of the Barre den Ecrins is
climbed (p. 355). 3 hrs. from the bergschrund.
362 IV. Route 6-2. GLACIER BLANC. Pelvoux Range
To the Pic de Neige Cordier (11,860 ft.), 5 hrs. from the Refuge Tuckett,
an ascent of moderate ilifticulty , taritl" 3. In 1 hr. from the refuge we
reach the mauniliceut 'Glacier Slanc . by which we ascend steeply for
31/2 hrs. Two bergschrunds are crossed and a couloir climbed to the Col Ltnile-
Pic or de la Plate-des-Agneaiix (11,490 ft.; to the Refuge de TAlpe, p. 364)
from which there is a splendid view. Hence it takes 1/2 hr. to reach
the summit whicli lies to the N.E. Near the top there are some rocks
which require great caution in descending.
' To Villard d'Arene (La Grave). — I. Via the Col du Glacibr-Blakc,
91/2- 10 hrs. from the Refuge Tuckett, of which 31/2 hrs. are difficult
ascent; tariff 2. It is preferable to undertake this route in the reverse
direction (see p. 364). — II. Vi.i the Col Emile-Pic , about II hrs. from
the Refuge Tuckett, difficult and dangerous ; tarifl' 2. It is better to cross
this pass on the way from the Alpe. To the Col, see above. Descent in
3 hrs. by the dangerous ice-slopes of the Glacier de la Plate-des- Agneaux, to
the Refuge de VAlpe, etc. (see p. 363).
To Le MonHier via the Col de I Echauda and to the Lac de VEchauda,
see p. 367.
d. Excursions from La Grave, Villard-d'Arfene, and Le Lautaret.
La Grave (p. 336) is admirably situated for tourists, on a main
route, near the most beautiful parts of the lofty Alps of Dauphine,
and in full view of the imposing Meije. Its position resembles that
of the Wengern-Alp facing the Jungfrau, while it is reached by a
good road and charges are lower. The road , however, is not well
supplied with means of transit, and difficulty is often found in
securing a vehicle or even a seat in one.
Villard-d'Arene (p. 336) , though less finely situated than La
Grave, has the advantage of being 400 ft. higher and about 1^/4 M.
nearc r to the Refuge de I'Alpe ; while Le Lautaret (p. 336) , in a
very beautiful situation, is 1785 ft. above La Grave and only 2 hrs.
from the Refuge.
Besides the Hosiiice of Le Lautaret there are on this side two refuges
at the base of the Pelvoux group, both accessible for mules; viz. the
* Refuge de la Lauze (9020 ft.), and the Refuge de VAlpe (6955 ft.), 3 and
31/2 hr.'- respectively from La Grave, 23/4 brs. from Villard-d'Arene, and
2 hrs. from Le Lautaret. In addition to these is the Refuge Lombard
(p. 365), a rather poor shelter near (he Aiguilles d'Arves, 4V4hrs. from
La Grave.
Guides: *Em,ile Pic and his son Hippolyie, Jules Bouillet, Eug. Mathonnet,
Pierre Oodde, Edovard Pic, Jules Mathon and Victor Seonnet ; and *Oiraud-
Li'zin of Villard-d'Arene.
Tariffs. I. (1st class ; see p. 345), !/•> day, guide, 4, porter, 4 fr. ; 1 day,
8 and 6fr. ; I1/2 day, 12 and 10 fr. : 2 days, 16 and 12 fr. — II. 1 dav,
12 and 8 fr. ; 11/., day. 18 and 12 fr. ; 2 days , 22 and 15 fr. — III. 1 day,
16 and 10 fr. ; IV2 dav , 22 and 14 fr. ; 2 davs , 27 and 18 fr. — IV. 1 or
11/2 'lay, 25 and 18 fr. ; 2 days, 33 and 21 fr. 21/2 days, 40 and 29 fr. —
For the Meije Occidentale and the Ecrins , 60 and 35 fr. ; if the summit
is not reached a reduction is made. — Return-fees (p. 345), 3-8 fr. The
tariff should be asked for.
If.B. Tourists who merely wish a walk should ascend to the (1 hr.)
♦Plateau d'Emparis or de Paris (8070 ft.) to the N.W., which may also be
reached on mule-back (6 and 8 fr.). A splendid view is obtained from
lliis point, which may be called the Flegere of the district.
**To St. Chri.stophe vi.\ the Col de la Lauze (Glacier de
Mont-de-Lans), 9' .3-IO lus. from La Grave if the descent is made
by the Lac Noir. 10' .,-11 hrs. if made by the Selle \alley. This is
and its Environs. GRANDE-RUINE. IV. Route 52. 363
a glacier expedition almost without difficulty to the col, and even
to St. Cnristophe via the Lac Noir. Tariff '2. — We cross the Ko-
manche and ascend to the S.W., partly in the valley of the Tabuckel
torrent, and past the chalets of Puyvachier . to the (3 hrs.) Refuge
de la Lauze (about 9020 ft.), on the E. of the Peyrou d'Aval (7926 ft!).
and opposite the Peyrou d'Amont (9390 ft.), at the extremity of a
spur of the Rateau (p. 353). Thence we climb to the left over the
crevassed Glacier du Lac, to the (I'/^hr.) little Col des Ruillans.
at the foot of the Rateau , and across the E. end of the Glacier de
3/on^-de-7-aHs(p. 350),which is also crevassed but devoid of serious
difficulty, to the (1 i/jhr.) *Col de laLauze (1 1.330 ft.), etc. ; see p. 350.
To the Bee de I'Homme (11,340 ft.), 6V2 hrs. Irom La Grave or ViUard-
d'Arene , somewLat difficult; tarilF 3. We afcend via the (81/2 hrs.) Pir
de V Homme (9525ft.), the Glacier du Sec, and some rocks on the left.
Fine view of the 3Ieije. — To the Pic de Neige du Lautaret (11,C00 ft.),
on the S.E. of the Glacier de rHomaie, 5i •> lirs. from the Refuge de
I'Alpe (see ahove), difficult; taritl'3. The Re/iuje de VAlpe (G95.5ft.), which
has room for 5 persons only, is situated in a charming spot, at the .junc-
tion of the Komanehe with ihe torrent descending from the Arsine glacier
(p. 366) and near Lac Pair. Thence we continue to ascend beside the
Romanche for some time, and afterwards turn in the direction of the
Glacier du Cloi-des-Cavales (col, see p. 3.)6) , and then to the right, where
the difficulties begin. Wc first ascend over fatiguing slopes and debri.«,
and then scale a wall of rock which requires much care. In 41/0 hr».
the foot of the S.E. ridge of Ihe peak is reached, whence the ascent
takes about 1 hr. more and presents some trying passages. The view
is verv fine and resembles that from Pic Gaspard, which rises to the
W.S.W. (.see below). — To the Pic Gaspard (12,730 ft.), 7V.>-8 hrs. from
the Refuge de V Alpe (see above), very difficult: tarifi" 4. " We ascend
first to the (21/2 hrs.) Upper Glacier du Clot-des-CaraUf, then to the (1 hr.)
ridge of rocks above the Glacier de V Homme (10,96.5 ft.), and thence over
abrupt rocks which are rather loose towards the end. A (2 hrs.) couloir
brings us in 1 hr. 20min. to a first peak, to the .S. of the Pie Gaspard,
and finally that peak is gained in 3/4 hr. more. Splendid view, extending
N.E. as far as Slont Blanc and the Gran Paradiso, but limited on the S.
by the Grande-Ruine and the Ecrins. — To the Pare, see p. 354; to the
Meije, p. 354; to La Berarde via the Breche de la Meije, etc., see pp. 364
and 354.
To the *Grande-Eume (12,315 ft.). 7-7 V2 hrs. from the Refuge
de I' Alpe; fairly easy, especially if there is plenty of snow; tariff 3.
We ascend, as above, the valley at the head of which the Romanche
rises and quit it above the convergence of the valley of the Clot-des-
Cavales. turning to the right between a huge moraine and the Roche
Me'ane (see below), around which height, on the left of the Glacier
de la Casse-De'serfe, we presently reach a (2'/4 hrs.) torrent along-
side of which we climb to the (2'/4 hrs.) crevassed Glacier de la
Grande-Ruine. By the glacier, we gain the (1^/4 hr.) foot of thf
arete, and by the latter (difficult in places) reach the (l'/4 hr.)
summit. The *View is superb. We may descend from the glacier
to La Berarde via the Col de la Casse-D^serte (3 hrs. ; p. 3571. —
The Roche Me'ane, exceedingly difficult, was ascended for the first
time in 1888, in 3 hrs. from the Glacier de la Grande-Ruine via the
principal arete and the N.E. side.
364 IV.Iiovte52. BRECHE DE LA MEIJE. Pelvoux Bange
To La B6rarde — I. Via the Bkeche de la Meije , to the W.
of the ^V. peak (p. 354), lO-lO'/jhrs. h-on\ La Grave, rather difficult
oil the La Grave side, by which, however, it is better to ascend;
tariffs. A halt may be made on the way at the Refuge du Chatelleret.
('rossing the Romauche, we ascend directly to the S. towards the
Glacier de la Meije, to the N.W. of the western peak, and in 2 hrs.
reach the Enfetchores (7550 ft.), a rocky ridge in this glacier. Then
we climb this arete (3 hrs.) and cross a bergschrund to the {1^/4 hr.)
Brfeche de la Meije '10,950 ft.). From there the descent is easy, via
the Glacier des Etan(0)is (p. 853) to the (2', 2 hrs.) Refuge du Cha-
telleret (p. 352). and thence in 1"4 hr. to La Berarde (p. 349). —
IL Via the Col duClot-des-Cavales (10.260 ft.), about 6'/, hrs. from the
Refuge de I'Alpe. fairly easy and less fatiguing than in the reverse
way, but rather longer; tariff 2 (see p. 356). We descend via Le
Chatelleret. — IIL Via the Brfeche de Charridre (10,700 ft.), on
the S. of the Tete de Charriere (p. 354), 6 hrs. from the Refuge de
FAlpe, somewhat difficult ; tariff 3. We cross the Glacier de la Plate-
des-Agneaux and climb a snow-couloir, exposed to falling stones.
— IV. |Via the Col de Roche-d'Alvau (about 9890 ft.), between the
Roclte d' Alvau (11,595 ft. ; p. 354), on the W., and the Roche Faurio
(12,190 ft. ; p. 354), on the E., above the Glacier de la Plate-des-Ag-
neaur , about 9 hrs. from the Refuge de I'Alpe , difficult : tariff 3.
We descend via the (Ihr.) Refuge de la Bonne-Pierre (p. 352).
To Vallouise. — I. Via the Col Emile-Pic, 12-13 hrs. from the Re-
fuge de VAlpe (p. 363), difficult; tariff 3. The night may be spent at one
of the refuges on the other side. In 1/0 hr. , from the Refuge, we reach
the point where the valleys separate , which ascend towards the Glacier
du Clot-des-Cavales (p. 363) and the Glacier de la Plate-des-Agneaux. In
1 hr. more we reach the foot of the real ascent and li/o hr. later the
fllacier de la Plate-des-Agneaux, where there are numerous crevasses, and
in 31/4 hrs. from there the Col Emile-Pic or de la Plate-des-Agneaux
(11,490 ft.), to the E. of the Pic de lYeige - Coydier (p. .362). The view is
rather limited, but we get sight beyond the col of the immense basin
of the Glacier Blanc and opposite of the Barri; des Kcrins. We descend
via the (!/•> hr.) Glacier Blanc, the (1 - IV4 hr.) Refuge Tucteit (p. 361),
the (ll/4-ll/'i hr.) Pre de Madame-Carle (p. 3.58), the (:V'4 hr.) Refuge Ce.ranne
(p. 361), to'(l/.ihr.) Ailefroide (p. 360) and (13/4 br.) Vallouise (p. 359). —
II. Via the Col du Glacier-Blanc (abnut 11,760 ft.), 13-14 hrs. from the
Refuge de I'Alpe, a difficult ascent by the (63/4 hrs.) Glacier dWrsine;
tarifi'3. Descent by the Glacier Blanc to tlie (2 lirs.) Refuge Tuckett, etc.,
see p. 361. We mav ascend without trouble to the E. of the Col du Glacier
Blanc, in Va br. to" the peak marked 33.50 metres (10,990 ft.), which com-
mands a fine view.
To THE Aiguille de Goleon , on the N. , 5V2 hrs. from La
Grave, fairly easy; tariff 2. We first ascend to the N., by the ('/4hr.)
Terrasses and (about Va^r.) Xe Citazclef to the Col de Martignare
(about 3'/4 hrs.) , to the W. of the Aiguille, whence we already get
a fine view. The ascent takes 2'/4 hrs. more. It is only a little fa-
tiguing near the end. over the debris, where there is a rocky wall
which must be rounded 011 the left and where there is an awkward
place. The *Aiguille or Signal de Gol6on (11.250 ft.) is one of
the principal summits to the N. of La Grave and beyond question
and its Environs. GRAND -GALIBIEH. IV. Route 52. 365
the peak that commands the finest *Vie\v of the Pelvoux group, and
of the Mei.je especially , owing to its isolation on this side and its
height; there is also a fine view of the bold Aiguilles d'Arves. To
theN. stretches the Glacier Lombard, beyond which are the Aiguilles
de la Sauiisaz (10.840 ft.) , and the Col Lombard (see below). On
the other side of the Col de Martignare lies the ravine of La Saussaz
(see below), on the W. of the Aiguilles d"Arves.
To THE AiGvii.LEs d'Aeves, about 61/2 hrs. (10 hrs. from La Grave), dif-
licult ascents; tarifl"4. The footpatli whicli leads to the Col Lombard,
where there is a refuge, goes first iu a N.E. direction, beyond the first
tunnel on the Lautaret road, and passes i'entelon (about 8/4 hr.), Les Hitits
(i/4hr. ; 5810 ft.), Pramelier (I/2 hr. : 6070 ft.), and a depression between
the Pic de la Part (1015 ft.), on the right, and a spur of the Aiguille dc
Gole'on, on the left. It then enters a wild! valley to the left. In front
the Aiguilles d'Arves are already seen. Farther on we cross the lower
part of tlie Glacier Lombard (easy), and pass the Refuge, a little shelter
lOmin. beyond which is the Col Lombard (10,365 ft.), 41/2 brs. from La
Grave, between the Aiguilles de Saussaz, on the S. , and the Aiguilles
d'Arves, on the N. The Aiguilles d'Arves are three in number: the .4(-
guille Meridionale (11,530 ft.), which is difficult and even dangerous; the
Aiguille CenJraZe (11,515 ft.), not very difficult; and the Aiguille Septen-
trionale (10,840 ft.), which is said to be as difficult as the Grand Pic de
la Bleije (p. 354). — Beyond the pass is the ravine of the Saussaz, by
which the path from the Col de Blartignare (p. 364) also descends.
To St. Jean-de-Maurie>;ue vii the Coi, de l'Inkernet, II-II1/2 hrs.,
comparatively easy: a guide is useful as far as the Col; taritl' 1. We
follow the Col de "Martignare path as far as (»/4 hr.) Le Chazelet (p. 364),
then proceed to the N.AV. via Les liiveis , the Baraque des Salomons, and
(I3/4 hr.) the Baraque de la Buffa. The Col de I'lnfernet (8825 ft.) is a
slight depression, 4l/4-4l/'> hrs. from La Grave, to the W. of the Pic du
Mas de la Grave (9920 ft. ;"li/2-2 hrs. ; fairly easy).^ The *View is fine to
the X. and S. The path descends on the K. , via (21/2 hrs.) Kntraigues,
to (I1/4 hr.) at. Jean-d'Arre (Arlaud's Inn, clean), 3 hrs. from St. Jean-
de-ifaurienne (p. 313).
To the Roche du Grand - Galibier (10,635 ft.) , to the E. of the
route to the Col of that name. 4' '.j hrs. from Le Lautaret (p. 336),
easy ; tariff 2. "We ascend to the N. , by u path which cuts off the
zigzags of the road (p. 336) to (^/4 hr.) La Mandette, then over
pastures to (2 hrs.) tlie foot of a couloir, which it takes IV4 hr. to
climb. Thence to the summit, '/.^ hr. Fine *Panorama of the .\lps
ofDauphine. including also Mont Blanc. — The Petit- Galibier
(9295 ft.), to the W. of the route, from which it can be ascended iu
50 min., also affords a fine view.
To the Pic de Combeynot (10.375 ft.), between the valleys of the
Romanche and the Guisane. about 4 hrs. from Le Lautaret, without
difticulty; tariff 2. We enter, on this side of the Col. the valley from
which the (r)(*,so?i« descends, then another valley on the right, lead-
ing to a terrace, beyond which the ascent is steeper. The summit,
reached thence in 2'/2l'r., is about 30 ft. higher than that on theN. K.
Fine *Panorama, extending to Mont Blanc. The amphitheatre formed
on the N.E. by the Pelvoux range is in front of us, with the great
glaciers of Arsine, the Plate-des-Agneaux, and the Clot-des-Cavales.
To La Part or the Pic des Trois.p.tlchfs (10,235 ft.), 4 hrs. from Le
Lautaret, without difficulty; tarifl'2. The route learls by the valley of the
366 IV. Route 52. COL D'ARSINE.
Torretit lie Roche-Xoire, to the N. E. , at the head of which we ascend the
crest of the mountain to first one peak (10,155 ft.) and then the other.
The fine view resembles that from the Grand-Galibier (see above).
e. Excursions from Le Mon^tier.
Le Monetier - de-Brianfon (p. 337) owes its Importance as a
tourist centre to its nearness to Brianfon as well as to that part of
the Pelvoux range which consists of the minor range of Seguret-
Faran. It is also convenient for the ascents of the Pic de Com-
beynot (p. 365) and the G rand- G alibi ev (p. 365), and from it we may
proceed to N^vache for the ascent of Mont Thabor.
In the neighbourhood are two refuges of the French Alpine Club,
viz. the ^Refuge Chancel (7220 ft.; see below), less than 2 hrs. from Le
Honetier by a mule-track, and the Refuge Joinville (about 9025 ft.-, see below),
about 21/2 hrs.
Guides. Jacques Boy and Pierre-Jos. Guiberi.
Tariff's. I. (1st class, see p. 345), 1/0 dav, guide 4, porter, 4 fr. ; 1 day,
8 and 6 fr. — II. 1 dav, 12 and 8 fr. ; 11 •> day, 18 and 12 fr. ; 2 days, 22 and
15 fr. — III. 1 day, 16 and 10 fr. ; 2 days, 27 and 18 fr, — Return -fees
(p. 345) 3-7 fr. The tariff should be demanded.
To THE Refuge de lAlpe vi.\ the Col d'Arsine, about 5 hrs.,
a fatiguing mule-track, but the shortest way to the Meije and Ecrins;
guide unnecessary; tariff 1. We first proceed by the Lautaret road
as far as (1/2 hr.) Le Casset (p. 337), and then turn to the left up
the valley of the Pet it-Tabu r, having on the right the Montagne die
Vallon (10,115 ft.) and on the left the Montagne de Ste. Marguerite
(8495 ft.). The Glacier dtt Casset soon comes in sight on the left
with the Pic des Agneaux (see below) overlooking it. In about
IVahr. we reach the Lac d'Arsine, and beyond it ^ve have a very
steep ascent, followed by a kind of circus, dominated on the left
by the Roche de Jabel (11,030ft.), and containing 3 lakelets and
the Chalets d'Arsine (about I'/ahr.). At this point the path turns
to the S. W. in the direction of the large Arsine Glacier, above
which rise to the left and right respectively the Pic des Agneaux.
(see below) and the Pic de Neige-Cordier (p. 362), and in about
•/jhr. more we arrive at the Col d'Arsine (8200 ft.), close to the
glacier. The descent to the N.W. is by ;i very steep slope and past
a small lake to the Refuge de rAlpe (about 1 hr. ; p. 362).
To the Pic des Pr4s'-les-Fonds (11,030 ft.), the highest summit visible
from Le Jlonttier, to tlie S.W., about 61/0 hrs., comparatively easy. We
proceed at first by the (3/4 hr.) l)eautiful Valley of the Tabiic, then through
pastures to a (li 4 hr.) hut and the (IV2 hr.) Glacier de Pres-les-Fonds,
which we cross to the N. arete, a short distance below a (21/4 hr.) col.
Thence in about 1 hr. to the summit via the arete. We may descend
l)y the W. arete to a snow-covered pass and thence via the (1 hr.) Glacier
<lu MonHier to tlie (8/4 hr.) Refuge Chancel (see below), I1/4 hr. from Le
Jlonetier.
To the Lac de I'Echauda, 41/2 Its., not difficult; tariff 1. We first
ascend, to the S. , in the beautiful valley of the Tabuc, to the Refuge
Chancel (about 2 hrs.; 7220 ft.); then we diverge to the S.W. either via
the Col des Grangettes (about li/2'hr.; 8720 ft.), or via the Col de Monta-
gnole (about 2 hrs. ; 9180 ft.?), whence we descend in about 1/2 li'. to
the lake, on the bank of which is the Refuge Joinville. The Lac de
GUILLESTRE. / V. Route 53. 367
I'Echauda or Eychauda (9025 ft.), about 760 yds. long by 435 yds. broad,
i.< situated in a wild and striking region, at the foot of the Glacier de
Si^gurei-Foran. Several little ice -bergs float upon its surface. A route
leads via the last-named glacier and the difficult Col de Segurei-Foran
(10,565 ft.) to the Refuge Cezanne (pp. 358, 359). If, however, we skirt
the left bank of the stream issuing from the lake, through a gorge flanked
on the N.E. by the Rocher de V Yret (9360 ft.), we join in Thr. the path
from Le Monetier to Vallouise (see below).
To the Uontagne des Agneauz (10,060 ft.), 41/2-5 hrs. from the Refuge
Chancel (p. 366), difUcult; tarilf 4. In about 4 hrs. from the refuge
we reach the Col I'uckeit, to the E. of the peak, and above the Glacier de
ifonetier. Thence we climb to the X.W. to the (I/2 hr.) summit, which
commands a very fine "View. — The Col Tuckett and the Col Jean-Gaii-
thier, to the W. of the peak, two difficult passes, lead to Vallouise via
the Refuge Tuckett (p. 361).
To Vallouise via the Col de l'Echauda or de Vallouise, 4V2-5 hrs.,
mule-track: tarilT 1. This route ascends the valley of the Torrent de
Corvaria , which is to the E. of and parallel to the Tabuc valley. On
the left is La Cuciiinelle (8868 ft.) , a fine view-point. In 2 hrs. we reach
the Col de I'Echauda, Eychauda, or Vallouise (7710 ft.), between the Cucu-
melle and the Roches des Neyzels (9030 ft.), whence we descend into tlic
Vallon de V Echauda, passing Rieou-la-Selie, Fourchier, Chamhran, Les Chou-
lieres, and Les Claux , 31/0-4 hrs. from the col and 3/4 hr. from Vallouise
(p. 359).
To MoKT Thabor via Nevache. To Xevache, about 31/2 hrs. , by a
mule-track which makes a guide unnecessary. This path turns to the
left a little beyond Les Guibertes (p. 337) to Le Freyssinet and the Col de
Buffere (6.560 ft.), about halfway, from which there is a good view. A
descent of 1 hr. brings us to Lacou in the Clairee valley; and 1/4 hr.
to the W. is N^vache (Auberge Balcet; guides). Thence the ascent of
Mont Thabor (p. 314; 7 hrs.; with guide, 6 I'r.) leads via the (II/4 hr.)
Chalets des Thures (6725 ft.), the (11/.. hr.) Col des Thures (7490 ft.), and the
ValUe Etroite (p. 314).
63. Valine du Guil. ftueyras. Mont Viso.
a. From Mont-Dauphin-Guillestre to Abri^s.
221/0 M. Diligence in 6 hrs. (fare 5 fr.).
Mont-Dauphhi-GuiUe.itre and Mont Dauphin . see p. 342. —
3 M. (iuillestre (Hotel Inibert) , a small town with 1450 inhab., is
of ancient origin despite its wretched appearance. Fine view of
the Pclvoux frroup to the N.W.
On the banks of the Guil, about 1 BI. from the town, is the Charrih-e
nr Rue des Masques, clefts with fantastic rocks, which tradition connects
with Druid worship.
From Guille.stre to St. Paul-sur-Ubaye, about 51/2 hrs. (41/2 hrs. of
ascent). The road, partly practicable for carriages, enters the valley of
the Chagne to the S.E., passing Vars (about 2 hrs. ; .5445 ft.). Thence we
proceed via the (I3/4 hr.) Re/uge and over the (I/2 hr.) Col de Vars (6940 ft.),
into the valley of the L'baye. — St. Paul-sur-Ubaye, see p. 341.
From Guillkstrb to SIalrin via the Col des Hoierts (Font-Sancie),
5i/2"6 hrs., road and footpath, guide necessary from (2 hrs.) Escretns.
From the vallev of the Chagne, which we first enter, we turn to the left
into that of the Rioubel. The Col des Ilouertes (9980 ft.) is 2 hrs. farther
on in the same direction (E.); thence we desceml in about 1^/4 hr. to the
N.E. to Maurin (p. 342). — The fine ascent of the Font-Sancte (11,055 ft),
tlie chief summit of the Queyras (to which Monte Viso does not belong),
may also be made via Escreins , in 7-8 hrs. We proceed by the valley
leading to the col, to the left of wliich is the summit, and thence by a
snow-couloir, where there is a difficult passage. The view is very fine and
368 IV. Route 53. ABRIES.
extensive, ranging from Mont Hlanc to the. Ce'vennes, and from the moun-
tains of Auvergne to the Maritime Alps.
About 11/4 M. from Guillestrc the Vall6e du Guil becomes very
interesting. Here begins the *C'umbe (hi Quei/ras, a wild defile
about 6 M. long, between lofty walls of rock where road and river
dispute the way. The name Queyras applies to the whole district
traversed by our present route. Its mountains, bare and impos-
ing, are still little known to tourists. There are only two hamlets
in the defile, La Ma>so7i-dH-Kol (3M.), so called because Louis XIII.
stopped here in 1629. and Le Veyer. at the end. T'/a M. from
Guillestre.
From La M.vi.son-du-Roi to BI.miiin, 2 roiites, each about 6 hrs., via
the Col (le Girardin and the Col de Tronchet (guide nseful). The routes
are identical at first, following the beautiful ValUe ile Crisiillan, via (Sl/o M.)
Ceillac (5345 ft.; Inn), a village at which diverges the road to Chateau-
Queyras via the Col de Fromage (see below). Thev separate at (Ihr.
farther) La Riia (.5800 ft.), in the valley of the Melezet. The path to the
right leads via the Lac Ste. Anne, where there is (U/a br.) a chapel (7930 ft.),
th^en to the N. of the Font-Sanete (p. 867), to the (I1/4 hr.) Col de Oirardin
(8855 ft.), Ihr. above Maurin (p. 34'2). — Tlie path by the other valley
(inferior) leads by two more hamlets, passes in sight of a beautiful water-
fall and in about II/4 hr. reaches the Col de Tronchel (8745 ft.), less than
1 hr. from Maurin (p. 342).
15 M. Chateau- Queyras (4400 ft. ; Hotel du Mont-Viso), a most
picturesque old fortress, on a crag in the midst of the valley.
To the S. is the fine Valley of Bramousse by which Ceillac (see above)
may be reached ou mule-baek iu 6 hrs. The road crosses the Col de Fro-
mage (7110 ft. ; admirable *View) ; to the X. appear the bold limestone pin-
nacles known as the Mamelles (Petite Blamelle, 8.590 ft.), the ascent of
which is dangerous; to the S. the Ceillac Chain, with the Saume (10,510 ft.)
and the Ilenvi'eres (10,735 ft.), covered with steep glaciers.
A good mule-track, diverging to the right, 1 M. farther on, leads from
Chateau-Queyras via (41/2 hrs.) the Col Agnel (8755 ft.; hospice on this
side) to (8-9 hrs.) Castel Delfino or Chateau Dauphin (Inn), a little town
which belonged to Dauphine until 1713 when it was exchanged with Pied-
mont for Barcelonnette (p. 341). The ascent of Monte Viso may be made
hence (see below). — To the K.E. of the Col Agnel is the Pain-de-Sucre
or Aiguilleite (10,505 ft.) , the ascent of which is fairly easy and ir(|uirrs
IS/4 hr. The view is very fine. — Farther oil' is the Grande - Aiguillette
(10,780 ft. ; equallv good view) , easily ascended from the col in about
'3 hrs. — About 3 hrs. farther is the Col de Valante (p. 369). — From the
hospice-refuge we may cross into the Ouil vallev via the (l/o hr.) Col
Vieux (8985 ft.), and the Vallon de Foriant. The Roche TaiUante (see below)
is easily ascended in 21/2 hrs. from the col.
From Chateau-Queyras to Cervi'eres (Roeliebrune), see p. 344.
19 M. Aif/uilies (4755 ft.) is a flourishing industrial village.
22V2 M. Abri6s (5085 ft. ; '-^ Hotel liichrtfd: guide, Veritier, nick-
named Lnpin), theprincipal place in theupperpart of the Guil valley,
at the confluence of the Bouchet. It has important fairs and the
church is a fine Romanesque building. The place is well situated
for excursions and ascents among the mountains of the frontier.
The Vallon du Bouchet which runs X. and then E., forms in tliis part
the pretty Combe de Valprevaire. From the Valprevaire chalets strikes
oil", to the S.E., the smiling Vallon d' Urine wliich leads to the Col d'Urine.
From this side the fatiguing but fairly easy ascent of the conical T4te
de Pelvas (9633 ft.) is made (5^/2 hrs. from Abries; guide 8 fr.), affording
MONTE VISO. IV. Route 53. 369
a niagnificent and almost unlimited *View. — Towards the end of the
valley, at the E. angle of the frontier, is the Bric-Bouchet (9850 ft.) , an
ascent also taking 5i/o lirs. from Abries (guide 12 fr. I. It is toilsome
during the latter half and dangerous towards the end. — In continuing
the ascent to the X., towards the elbow formed by the Bouehet. near Le
Rotix, we may ascend the Eric-Froid (10,860 ft.), at another delined angle
of the frontier on the X. The ascent is easv and takes 5 hrs. from Abries
(guide 8fr.).
b. From Abries to the Monte Viso.
The road remains for about 7' .^ -M. farther in the Vallee du
(Juil, leading to comparatively frequented cols, where, however,
there are only footpaths. At about 2*/.2 M. is the village of Risfolas
(5355 ft.) . IV4 M. farther is the hamlet of La Monta (Inn) and
'^ 3 M. farther that of La Chnlp. Guides are to be found in all
three places.
Between La Monta and La Chalp a path to the X.E. leads to the Col
I.acroix (81/2 hrs. from Abries: 7610 ft.) where there is a hospice-refuge.
Thence the descent is made in 3 hrs. to the little town of Bobbio on the
I'ellice. in the most important of the Vaudois Valleps , which have been
occupied for 600 years by Vaudois immigrants from France.
Another path, to the S. beyond La Chalp. ascends the Vallon dt Fovtant
to the (3l/o hrs.) Col Yieux ("p. 368). passing (2 hrs.) the Lac Egourgeou,
and (1 hr.) the Lac Foreani. From the former lake we may easily ascend
the Roche Taillante (10,500 ft. : I3/4 hr. ; guide), a curious mountain, shaped
like a scimctar , rising to the \V. of the valley. We lirsi reach (8/4 hr.)
a depression in the crest to the W. of the summit, then follow some
small couloirs , among the huge slabs of rock on the back of the crest,
which are steep and slippery.
Still farther along the valley of the Guil, on the right, is the
Vallon de Fore'anf , which leads to the Col Vieux (p. 368). Then,
once more on the left , about 4 hrs. from Abries , is the path to
(IV'4 hr.) La Traversette.
.\boiit 1/2 hr. from the fork is a refuge of the Alpine Club called the Re-
fuge de.^ Lyonnais (6500 ft.). There is a superb view of Monte Viso which
on this side shows to the utmost advantage. About 1/2 hr. from the
refuge is a Titnnel , 100 yds. long, cut in 1478-90, and 1/4 hr. farther is
the Col de la Traversette (9827 ft). To the N.W. is the Pic Traverse
(9760 ft.), the ascent of which, free fnon danger, takes 21/4 hrs. from
the refuge. — To the X. E. is the Granero (10.4()0 ft.) , which may be
easily ascended from the col in 3/4-1 hr. The ascent of the Meidassa
(10,lS5ft.), to the right of the col. is still easier, and in the early
morning, \vhen there is no fog, afl'ords nearly the same view of tlie
Monte Viso and the plains of Piedmont. — From the col we. descend in
3 hrs.. passing near the Sources of the Po (Hotel du Plan del Re; ascent of
Monte Viso, see below), to Crissolo or Crussol (4580 ft. ; Setel du Club-Alpin),
in the valley of the Po.
At length the path which ascends the Guil valley to its head
crosses the Col deValantt (9170ft.; l^/j hr. from the last fork) and
ikscends from it in 3 hrs. to Castel Delfino (p. 368). On the left
of the col is the Visoulef or Viso de Valanfe (10,725 ft.; I'/a hr. ;
difficult); farther off the Little Monte Viso (10.965ft.), and then
Monte Viso itself.
'Monte Viso (12,615 ft.) is on Italian territory, at the junction of the,
• "ottian and Maritime .\lps. Besides being a magnificent .•■'ew-point on
account of its isolated position, it is singularly impressive from its gigantic
ramparts of slate, serpentine, etc. The ascent by the X. face is very
Baedeker. Southern France. -i*
370 IV. Route 54. SISTERON.
difficult and takes 8 hrs. from the Refuge des Lyonnais via the Col de
Valante and the Col du Viso , 2i/o hrs. from the former col ; guide 35 fr.
It is comparatively easy by the S. face , where the start is commonly
made from Crissolo (see above), whence it takes about 8 hrs. By starting
from the Pian del Re or Plan du Roi (small Inn ; see above) at least two
hours are saved. Thence we proceed to the E. of the Viso itself, cross
one of its spurs by the Col or Passo delle Sagnette , descend into the Val
delle ForcioUine , where there is an Italian Alpine Club - hut , and then
climb to the N. from this desolate valley to the (4 hrs. more) summit by
a series of couloirs. The "Panorama is superb and embraces the whole
of the Dauphine Alps , and those of Savoy with Mont Blanc , the Weiss-
horn, and Monte Eosa , 100 M. distant as the crow flies.
54. From Grenoble to Digne.
Basses Alpes.
123 M. Railway in Ti/.i-Shrs. (lares 24 fr. 60, 18 fr. 45, 13fr. 55e.).
To (68 M.) Veyncs, where carriages are changed, see p. 340. —
The train runs back for about 2^2 M. to reach the Buech valley,
which it descends. TS'/jM. Punt-cle-Chabestan. To the left, farther
on, is the village of La Batie-Montsaleon, the Mons Seleuci of the
Romans, near which the usurper Magrientius was overthrown by
Constantius in 353. Some remains of ancient buildings are still to
bo seen and numerous Celtic-Roman relics have been found. Beyond
two tunnels we have a fine view to the right.
78 M. Serres (Hotel Moulin) is a small town picturesquely si-
tuated beside a steep rocky promontory on the right bank of the
Buiich. The character of the scenery now changes; the mountains
are arid and rugged, but the almond-trees indicate that we are near-
iiig Provence. — Beyond a short tunnel is (83 M.) Eygui ans-Orpierre.
87 M. Laragne ; 92 M. Mison. The Buiich is crossed by a lofty curved
viaduct, near the Durance (to the left), and after catching a pretty
glimpse to the left, we pass through a tunnel, nearly '/a M. long,
beneath the citadel of Sisteron.
98'/., M. Sisteron (1580 ft. : Hotel Negre. to the left at the begin-
ning of the main street), an ancient town with 3864 inhab., is pic-
turesquely situated at the continence of the Buech and Durance. It
is a fortress of the third class, and commands the entrance to Pro-
vence on this side. The old Citadel, overlooking the town, presents
an imposing appearance. The other chief features are the Towers of
the old ramparts and the Church of Notre-Dame, formerly a cathe-
dral, mainly of the ll-12th centuries. The portal, with its tasteful
small columns, is noteworthy. The main street leads directly to the
other side of the town, to the base of the steep rocks on which the
citadel is situated, and near which flows the Durance in a defile
beyond which rises the precipitous Mont de la Bcaume. Farther
on to the left, at the confluence of the rivers, is a bridge and a
railway viaduct. Another bridge over the Durance commands a pic-
tiresque view of the town.
DIGNE. IV. Route 54. 371
Tbo railway now descends the right bank of the Durance, whose
floods are ol'toii ilc^tructive, though in summer its broad channel is
usually almost dr> . Olive-trees begin to appear, frequently mistaken
for willows by northern travellers. — 102 M. Peipin; lOS^/a M.
Chateau- Arnoiix. On the opposite bank (suspension bridges) is
Volonnr. above which is a ruined castle of the 11th centnry.
At (IO8V2 M.) St. Aitban (1385 ft.; bufl'et), at the confluence of
liie Durance and the Ble'one, we quit the main line to Marseilles
\p. 426) for the branch-line to Digne. The latter crosses the Durance
and ascends the right bank of the Bleone. — 112 M. Malijai. In
tlie distance to the right is the Montagne de St. Michel-de-CoKiiseau x
(4340 ft.), with a hermitage. — II7V2M. Les Grillons; 120'/2 M.
{Jhanipterrier. Near Digne, to the right, is the beginning of the line
to Draguignan (p. 445) via Castellane (see below).
123 M. Digne (1955 ft. ; Hut. Re'mumt, Hot. Boner-Mistre, in the
Cours), the /)i?iia of the Romans, a town of 7083 inhab. , and the
chief town of the department of the Basses-Alpes , is picturesquely
situated on the left bank of the Bleone. Like Gap it was formerly
more important than at present, but it suffered much in the wars of
religion and in 1629 was ravaged by the plague.
In a square, halfway down the tree -shaded Conrs , is a bronze
statue, by Ramus, of Gassendi (1592-1655), the philosopher and
mathematician, who was born at Champtercier (p. 370). — The
(\ithedral . mainly of the 15th cent. , with a modern Gothic portal,
lontains a good organ -case, a statue of St. Vincent de Paul, by
Daumas (1869), and a 17th cent, statue of a bishop. — Outside the
town, beyond the bridge, is the Romanesque church of Nofre-Damr
( 12-13th cent. : no longer used for service), with a tine nave, retaining
traces of frescoes of the 15-16th centuries. Apply at the octroi of-
fice to the right, behind the church.
Tlif Basses Alpes are as a wliole inucli less interesting to the tourist
than the Alps i)f Savoy or Daiipliiiie, and their exploration is still more
difficult owiny to the heat of the summer, the deficiency in the means of
communication, and the general scantiness of resources. Compared with
the basin of the Isere or with Provence, much of the scenery of the Basses
Alpes appears desolate and forbidding, while the mountains almost every-
where are bare and rugged.
Diligences and Mail-carts, starting from the Cours at Digne, ply on the
main roads among these mountains, and enable the traveller to obtain at
least an idea of their character without an unreasonable amount of trotible.
From DifJKE to Harcei.onkette, 531/2 M., 11 hrs. drive. The road as-
cends the vallfv of the Bleone, via (10 M.) /..a Jarie , then passes over
the Col de Laboitrtt (3990 ft.), and running via (iSl/oJl.) the little fortified
town of .Seyne-les-.Upes (2195 inhab.) , join.s at (401/2 M) f^aiizei the road
mentioned at p. 341.
From Digne to L'oi.mars, 47 Jl., mail-cart. The road leads via (I81/2 M.)
ISarieme (Inn), a large village on the Asse, whence the route to Castellane
(see below) diverges to the right, and via (271/2 M.) St. Andre-de-Meouilles
(Inn), whence another road to the right leads to Castellane (10 M. : mail-
i-art) and to Puget-Theniers (see below). Our road now runs to the N.
up the valley of the Ver-don, crossing the stream twice to avoid the
MoiHagne de Cordccil (6945 ft.), before reaching (35 M.) Thorame- Haute (Inn).
24*
372 IV. Route 54. CASTELLANE.
Farther on are other bare and lofty mountains. — 47 31. Colmars (4130 ft.;
Inns), on the left bank of the Verdon , is now an ill -built and dirty
village with 845 inhab., though in ancient times fortified with two forts.
It owes its name to a temple of Jlars on a neighbouring hill ('coUis').
From Digne to Puget-Theniers (Nice), 57 M., mail-cart to (52i/oM.}
Entrevaux. — To (271/2 M.) St. AnUre-de-M^ouilles, see above. Thence the
road skirts the Verdon to the S. for some distance, crosses the stream,
leaving the road to Castellane (about 7 JI.) to the right, and runs through
the '*Clus de Rouaine, beyond the (411/2 31.) village of that name, and sev-
eral other defiles. Several small streams are crossed, among others the
\'ar , by the (4911.) Pont de Gueidan. — 521/2 31. Entrevaux (Hotels) is an
ill-built and dirty town with 1418 inhab. , on the left bank of the Var.
It was in ancient times a fortress, and one ol the hills between which
it lies is still fortified. The environs are pleasant. — 57 JI. Puget-Thenierst
.«ee p. 456.
From Digj;e to Castella^-e, 3431., public conveyances for (7531.) Grasse
(p. 450) and (67 31.) Draguignan (p. 445). A railway is under construction.
— To (ISi/o 31.) Barreme, see above. 221/^31. .Senez, the Sanitiinn of the
Romans, now a village with an ancient Romanesque cathedral. — 34 31s
Castellane (HOiel du Levant) . a town of 1858 inhab. , on the Verdon, \-
interesting only for its beautiful situation and some remains of fortifications.
373
V. CEVENNES, VALLEY OF THE RHONE, PROVENCE,
AND CORSICA.
55. From Clermont-Ferrand to Nimes 374
From Langogne to Mende, 375. — St. Laurent-les-
Bains, 3?5. — From Villefort to Mende. Ex-
cursions in the Lozere Mountains, 375, 376.
56. From Clermont-Ferrand to B^ziers 377
Chaudesaigues, 377. — From Campagnae to St.
Geniez-d'OU. From Millau to Le Vigan, 378. —
From Tournemire to St. AllVique. Larzac, 379.
— From Bedarieu.x to Castres, 379. — From Fau-
geres to Moutpt'lUer, 381.
57. The Causses and the Canon of the Tarn .... 381
I. From Marvejols to Mende and Florae .... 381
From Balsieges (Mende) to Florae, 382. — From
Florae to Meyrueis (Peyreleau), 383.
II. From Florae to Peyreleau via the Tarn Canon 383
From Peyreleau to Millau; to Meyrueis via the
valley of the Jonte, 386.
III. From Peyreleau to Montpellier-le-Vleux and
thence to Millau by the Valley of the Dourbie 387
Ravines of Les Palies and of the Riou-Sec, 387.
58. From Lyons to Mmes 389
a. Via Tarascon, on the left bank of the Rhone . . 389
b. Via Le Teil and Remoulins, on the right bank of
the Rhone 389
From Le Pouzin to Privas. The Coiron , 390. —
From Remoulins (Tarascon) to St. Julien-de-Cas-
sagnas via Uzfes, 392.
c. Via Le Teil and Alais. Vals 392
From Vogiie to Vals and to Nieigles-Prades, 393.
— From Ruoms to Largentiere and to Valgorge.
Tanargue. From Ruoms to Vallon. Pont d'Arc,
394. — From St. Paul-le-Jeune to Les Vans. Bois
de Paiolive. From Robiac to Bessoges, 394. —
From St. Julien-de-Cassagnas to Martinet. Les
Fumades, etc., 395. — From Alais to L'Ardoise;
to Quissac (Le Vigan), 395.
59. Nimes and its finvirons 395
From Nimes to Aigues-Mortes ; to Le Vigan, 400. —
The Aigoual, 401.
60. From Nimes to Montpellier and Cette 401
From Lunel to Sommieres, 401. — From Montpellier
to Palavas; to Sommieres, 406. — Balaruc-les-
Bains, 407.
61. From Lyons to Marseilles by the Valley of the Rhone 407
From St. Kambert to Rives. (Grenoble), 409. —
Ruines de Crussol, 410. — From Livron to Die ; to
Privas. Grignan , 411. — Nyons, 412. — From
Orange to Mont-Ventou.v ; to Vaison, 413. — From
Avignon to Carpentras (Mont Ventoux); to Orgon.
24
374
From Taraseon to St. Remy (Orgon), 419. — From
Aries to Salon (Mont Major; Les Baux); to Lunel
(Montpellier); to St. Louis- du -Rhone , 423. —
From Miramas to Port-de-Bouc. From Rognac
to Aix, 424. — From Pas- des - Laneiers to Mar-
tigues, 425.
62. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles) 425
Fontaine de Vaucluse, 423. — From Cavaillon to
Apt; to Miramas (Marseilles). Gorge du Regalon,
426.
63. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles 426
Gre'oulx. Riez. Moustiers-Ste. Marie, 426. — From
Mevrargues to Grasse, 427. — From Gardanne to
Carnoules. 429.
64. Marseilles 430
Chateau d'lf, 438.
65. From Marseilles to Ventimiglia (Italy) 438
I. From Marseilles to Toulon (Hyeres) .... 438
From Aubagne to Valdonne, 438. — Excursions
from Toulon, 442. — From Toulon to Hyeres, 442.
— Excursions from Hyeres, 444.
II. From Toulon to Ventimiglia 444
From Les Arcs to Draguignan, 445. — From St.
Raphael to Hyeres. The Esterel, 446. — Cap
d'Antibes. Peninsula of St. Jean, 447.
66. Cannes and its Environs 448
lies de Le'rins, 449. — From Cannes to Grasse, 450.
67. Nice and its Environs 450
From Nice to Mentone via the Route de la Cor-
niche , 4.55. — From Nice to St. aiartin- Lantos-
<iue; to Puget-Thenier.s : to Tenda (Cuneo), 4.56.
68. Monaco and Mentone 457
a. Monaco 457
Tete-de-Chien. Mont-Agel, 458.
b. Mentone 458
Exeur.sions from Menlone, 459.
69 Corsica 460
Ajaccio 462
From Ajaccio to Bonifacio 464
From Ajaccio to Bastia 465
From Bastia to Bonifacio 467
From Bastia to Rogliano, Capo Corso. S. Fioronzo
and Calvi 467
55. From Clermont-Ferrand to Nimes.
Vifi, the C6veniies.
189 M. Railway in 8Va-12 hrs. (fares 37 fr. 65, 28 fr. 25, 20 fr. 75 c.).
— This interesting route, which form.'; part of the direct line from Pari.s
to Nimes, should be. taken by day. The views are for the most part
better on the right than on the left. This line traverses 108 tunnels and
32 viaducts. — From Paris to Nimes via Nevers and Clermont-Ferrand,
450 M., Railway in 171/...-24 hrs. (fares 89 fr. 25, 06 fr. 95, 49 fr. 10 c): via
LANGOGNE. V. Route 55. 375
Lvons and Taraseon (RR. 27 and 58), 492 M. in 14i/o-25i/-> hrs. (fares
97 fr. 65, 73 fr. 20, 53 fr. 70 c).
Clermont-Ferrand . seep. 231. — Thence to (58 M.) St.Georges-
d'Aurac, see p. 206. The railway again approaches the Allier.
■which it crosses. At (62' j M.) Lanyeac travellers from NImes change
carriages for the Le Pay line (R. 35). We now follow the river, the
valley of which increases in interest, and the tunnels and viaducts
are both numerous and remarkable. Beyond (66' 2 M.) Chanteugei
on both sides are basaltic mountains, though afterwards granite
becomes the prevailing rock. Then follow a tunnel and a viaduct, aiid
after (71 M) ^t. Julien-des-Chazes, 2 viaducts, 3 bridges (one of them
over the Allier) and 10 tunnels. 77 M. Monistrol-d' Allier (10 via-
ducts and 12 tunnels),- 83 M. Alleyras (12 tunnels and 6 viadiicts) ;
92' 2 M., Chapeanroux (7 tunnels and 3 viaducts); 97 M. Juncheres,
with a ruined 15th century castle, on the left (5 tunnels and 5 via-
ducts).
104 M. jLanjro(/»e(Buffet), a town with 3800 inhab., VaM. to theS.
A diligence plies hence to Mende, 40i/... 31. to the S.W., in 43/4hrs.,
(fares 8 fr. 75, 7fr. 50 c.); see also below under Villefort. The country
traversed is mountainous, but monotonous, barren, and bare. We pas.s
near (12l/.j M.) CluUeauneuf-de-Kandott, a small town, during the siege of
which Bertrand du Guesclin was killed in 1380. The English governor,
who had promised to surrender, kept his word and placed the keys upon
Du Guesclin's coffin. — Mende, see p. 382.
Then again 5 bridges, the second and the last across the Allier.
and 2 tunnels; and beyond (112M.) Luc the Allier is again crossed
twice. — llB'/jM. La Bastide.
About 5i/i>M. to the N.E. is St. Lauretit-les- Bains, a small town sur-
rounded by mountains. It possesses two thermal mineral springs, known
to the Romans, and two bath-establishments.
AVe now cross the Allier for the last time, and entering a tunnel
C/j M. long) under the watershed of the Ce'vennes, pass from the
basin of the Loire into that of the Rhone. The route here attains
its summit-level (3375 ft.), having risen over 1600 ft. between this
point and Langeac(54M.). It then descends still more rapidly through
eight tunnels, between which we obtain tine glimpses of the country.
— Beyond (122'/.2M.) P»'cveHc/ie)'e,< we traverse 12 tunnels and galle-
ries (the third nearly 1 M. long) and 6 viailucts or bridges. The last
viaduct, 230 ft. high, over the Allier, consists of two stories, across
the lower of whicli runs the road to Mende (see below). — 129 M.
VUlefort (1980ft.: Buffet; hotels; guide).
a' diligence plies twice a day to J/ewrfe (p. 382), 36V •_. J'- 'o the W.N.W.,
in 7 lirs. lOmin. (fares 8fr.75, 7fr.75c.). For pedestrians Villefort is a
better starting-point than Langogne (see above). The road first runs to
the N., but beyond a short tunnel turns to the W. into the valley of the
Allier, where it crosses the viaduct mentioned above. To the JJ. is the
Montague dn Oovlet (4890 ft.), to the S. Mont Lozh-e (see below). We pass
some groves of old chestnut-trees and two hamlets.
71/2 M. Altier (Inns), with an old castle. We then mount to the Col
du Bleymard (,38-55 ft.) from which we descend into the valley of the Lot.
Near Le Bleymard (3470 ft. : Inn), a village with 605 inliab., which we leave
to the left, we cross the track ('draye'), used from time immemorial by
the flocks of Provence on their way to their summer- pastures on the
376 V. Route 55. BAGNOLS-LES- BAINS.
central plateau. To the Pie de Finiels, see below. — 19V2 M- "S"- Je<tn-de-
Bleymard (Hotel St. Jean: Teissier, clean; carriages for hire), a hamlet,
about 500 yds. from the village, on the Lot, whose source is 2l/o M. to the
N. We descend the right bank to (22V2 M.) '5'- Jean-du-Tournel, with a
ruined castle, under which the road passes by means of a tunnel. —
231/2 M. Bagnols-les-Bains (1610ft.: Grand- Hotel;' Hotel des Bains, 61/2-7 fr-
per day), a village on the Lot, with six mineral springs (88°-107° Fahr.),
known to the Romans, as is shown by the remains of various buildings.
Xumerous excursions may be made in the neighbourhood. — Beyond
(30m.) Ste. Hil'tne we cross the Lot. and bevond a small col rejoin the
route from Langogne (p. 375). —32 31. Badaro'ux. — SBi/o M. Afende (p. 382).
An easy and interesting excursion (2 days) may be made from Ville-
fort to the S.W. , to the Hont Loz^re group, including the Roc de Mal-
pertus, the Pic de Finiels, and the Signal des Laubies. The first day's ex-
pedition takes9hrs., the second, 71/2 hrs. An early start should be made
on account of the heat. From Le Bleymard we may return to Villefort
or go on to Bagnols and Jlende.
1st day. We pass below the railway and proceed to the S. along the
right bank of a brook which we cross at (13/4 31.) Palheres. Beyond this
village we turn to the left into a bridle-path which leaves to the right
two cart-roads, and runs parallel to the ravine, which it overlooks. From
the (2 hrs.) poor village of Cosieilades (3435 ft.) a child or herdsman should
be taken as guide at least as far as the Source of the Tarn, I1/4 hr. higher
up. There we turn to the W., and in 3 4 hr. reach the Roc de Malpertus
(o520ft.) which afl'ords a fine view, including the Aigoual to the S., the
mountains of Aubrac and Margeride to the N., and the valleys of the Lot
and Aveyron to the W. We descend to the .S.W. (not too much in the
direction of the Tarn), via Camarquis, V Hdpital, and Le Mazet, to Pont-de-
MoHtvert (Hotel des Ce'vennes) , a market-town on the Tarn, and on the
road from Genolhac (18 M. ; see below) to Florae (15 M. : p. 383). Here in 1703,
after the revocation of the Edict of Kantes, broke out the Protestant in-
surrection known as the War of the Camisards, from the shirts ('camise')
worn over their clothes by the insurgents. The town is still almost
entirely Protestant.
2nd dav. We ascend first to the N. of Pont-de-Montvert, hv a ravine,
to (iS/^U.j Champlong-de-Lozere, (i/o M.) Pri-Soulayran (3905 ft. 1." and (IM.)
Finiels, about U/o hr. from Pont and half-way to the Col de Finiels (short-
cut for walkers). To the W. is the Pic de Finiels (5.585 ft.). whence there
is a fine view to the S. and E. From the Signal des Laubies (5445 ft.), 8/4 hr.
to the W., the view includes not only the whole chain of the Cevennes,
but also the plateaux and the gigantic ramparts of the Gausses. We re-
turn to the col to gain the new Bleymard road, or we may descend direct
to the N. by the sheep-track ('draye'; see above). Le Bleymard , see above.
Beyond Villefort the country is still very broken, and we enjoy
beautiful glimpses of the Cevennes. Tunnels and viaducts are
still numerous. — 131 M. Concoules (6 tunnels). Beyond (138 M.)
(ienolhac arc 4 viaducts , the third of which is curved and 150 ft.
high, and commands a flue retrospective view to the right, and
6 tunnels. — 142 M. Chainborigaiid, followed by 3 tunnels , the
first of which is nearly a mile long. Beyond (144 M.) Ste. Ce'cile-
d'Andorge we pass througli 4 more tunnels, and then quit the Ce-
vennes, and enter the region of the mulberry. — 147' '2 M. />'J T^e-
rade, and (150 M.) Ln Pise belong to the Grand' Combe, a commune
of 11,340 inhab., engaged in the important coal-mines of the district.
- Before and after (156 M.) Tamnris, with its briquette-works, we
traverse a tunnel.
158 M. Alain. For the continuation of the route, see p. 395.
377
56. From Clermont-Ferrand to B^ziers,
yi& St. Floar and Millau.
240 31. Railway in 11-153/4 Its. (fares 47 fr. 85, .Tj fr. 85, 26 fr. 30 c).
— From Paris to Beziers the distance by this new line is 501 M. (express
in 201/3 hrs.) while it is 531 M. via Limoges and Rodez (RR. 19, 13), and
575 M. via Limoges and Toulouse (RR. 12, 10). — This route will be still
farther shortened by the opening of a direct section beyond Arvant (see
the map).
To (37 M.) Arvant, see p. 205; thence to (30 M.; 67 M. in all)
Neussargues , see p. 253. — The railway leaves the valley of the
Alagnon and ascends rapidly to the S.E. , entering a tunnel over
•'4 M. long. To the right are the mountains of the Cantal (p. 254l
- 71V2 M. Talizat (3265 ft.) ; 76V2 M. Boffar.
79 M. St. Flour (2900 ft. ; Hdtel Aitriac; du Nord), a town of
5477 inhab., is situated on an eminence partly composed of basaltic
pillars. The seat of a bishopric, it contains a cathedral of the 14-
15th cent., dedicated to St. Florus, the apostle of the district. In the
interior are fine modern stained-glass windows and other works of art.
A mail-cart plies hence to (201/2 M) Chaudesaigues (Hotels)^ a small
watering-place tn the .S. , in the valley of a tributary of the Truyfere.
It has five thermal springs and one cold chalybeate spring. One of the
former is so copious that its water is used even to warm the houses in
winter. Chaudesaigues is only I6I/2 M. from the station of St. Che'ly
(see below), via (8 31.) Foiirnel's.
"We cross a viaduct. To the left appears the Montague de la
Margeride (5100 ft.). — 861/2 M. Ruines; 89 M. Viaduc de Gardbit
Station .
The *Garabit Viaduct, spanning the gorge of the Trnyere, one
of the largest constructions of the kind, is 607 yds. long and 400 ft.
high. Its central span of 542ft. was at one time among the widest in the
world, but it has been far out-distanced by the Forth Bridge (1890),
with two spans of 1710 and 1700 ft., and the Brooklyn Suspension
Bridge (1888). with a span of 1596 ft. The two widest spans of the
Britannia Tubular Bridge are 460 ft. each. Tlie Garabit Viaduct,
constructed by Boyer and Eiffel, should be viewed from below. It
is built of iron, with five retictilated piers, more than 200 ft. high,
supported on huge bases of solid masonry.
The railway crosses the broken plateaux of the Lozere and attains
its highest point ^3465 ft.) before reaching St. Ch^ly. - 92V2 M.
Luubai-esse: 97' /.^M. Arcomie. Then a tunnel.
IOIV2M. St. C'hely-d'Apcher (Hotel Bardol). a little town and
the nearest station to Chaudesaigues (sec above). — Farther on is a
viaduct. To the right appear the Mants d'Aubrac (4825 ft.).
108M. Aumont: 11.3 M. St. Saiiveur~de-Peyre. We pass a
tunnel, over ^'^ M. long, and the stone Viaduc de la Crneize, 200 ft.
high, beyond which are several more tunnels and viaducts.
122 M. Marvejols (Hotel de la Paix), a town of 5113 inhab., on
the Colagne , rebuilt in the 16th cent, after having been almost
378 V. Route 56. MILLAU. Frotn Clermont-Ferrand
entirely destroyed in the Religious Wars. Three gateways still re-
main, though the rest of the fortifications have been converted into
a handsome boulevard. Dr. Prunieres of Marvejols possesses a
valuable collection of pre-historic antiquities.
124 M. Chirac. — I251/2 M. he Monastier. Railway to Mende
and the Causses, see R. 57.
The main line descends the winding gorge of the Lot, which it
crosses four times, passing through 5 tunnels. To the left is the
Causse de Sauveterre (p. 382). — iSi^l-iM. Banassac-la-Canourgue.
Hence to the Canon of the Tarn, see p. 381. ^ 137 M. St. Laiirent-
d'Olt. We traverse two short viaducts and a tunnel ^,'4 M. long. —
139'/2 M. Campagnac.
A diligence (I1/2 fr.l plies hence to (8 M.) St. Geniez, via the road
passing the N.E. end of the Causse de Sev}rac, from which there is a fine
view of the Monts d'Anbrac (ji. 377). Farther on we approach the Gorges
du Lot. — St. G6niez-d'01t (Hotel Rouqueite) , an important cloth-making
town of 37i2inhab., is picturesquely situated on the Lot. Mgr. de Frayssin-
ous (1765-1842), orator and politician of the Restoration, a native of
the district, is commemorated by a monument in the church, erected
by the Comte de Chambord, whose tutor he was. — From St. Geniez
the road goes on to (IOI/2 M.) Espalion (p. 98), via (13/4 M.) -S'(e. Etilalie,
(5 M.) LassouU, and (8 W.) St. Come.
The railway ascends and crosses the W. end of the Causse de
Sauveterre, passing through two tunnels. 142 M. Tarnesque. Then
tunnel, 1/2 M- long.
I I46V2 M. S^y ^rsiC-le-CT[iktea.vL (Bitjfet ; Hotel des Voyageurs), a
town with 3347 inhab. , is commanded by a ruined castle, which
existed in the 13th century. — Railway to liodez and Capdenav,
see R. 13.
We now cross the Aveyron, ascend an incline, with four tunnels,
and descend again towards the valley of the Tarn, by a still longer
incline which also has four tunnels . besides a vaulted gallery and
two viaducts. — 159 M. Quezaguet. Another vaulted gallery and
two viaducts. We skirt on the left, the gorges of the Tarn (p. 382).
— 152 m. Agttesftac. overlooked by Compeyre, a village on a rocky
knoll. Road to Peyreleau (Tarn Canon), see p. 386.
166 M. Millau (Hotel du Commerce), the yEmiliamnn Castrum
of the Romans, is a town with 16,139 inhab. , situated in a pictur-
esque and fertile district, on the left bank of the Tarn. It is the
capital of the arrondissement of Aveyron , the richest in the entire
C^vennes region. Having been in the 16th cent, one of the principal
strongholds of the Calvinists, it lost ground after the Revocation of
the Edict of Nantes. Its production of kid gloves is considerable.
The town itself is badly built and contains little of interest beyond
Nofre-Dame, a church in the Romanesque and Renaissance styles;
the Place d'Armes. with galleries, dating from the 12-15th cent. ;
and a Gothic Belfry.
For the route to Peyreleau, Meyrueis, Jlontpellier - le - Vieux (Gorges of
the Tarn; Causses), etc., see pp. 386 and 387.
From Millau to Le Vioak, 51 M. , by the old road via La (;avalerie
to Be'ziers. BEDARIEUX. T'. Route 56. 379
and Nant ; public conveyances daily; or 47 M. by the valley of the Doui-
bie and Kant. The old road crossing the Larzac (see below) is un-
interesting until it reaches Nant. La Cavalerie (11 M.; Hotel Plialippon),
is a village containing the fairly preserved ruins of an ancient coni-
inandery of the Templars. — The road via the Valley of the Dourbie (p. 389),
which is very pictiiresque, passes (8 M.) La Roque St. Marguerite (p. 389),
at the foot of the [rocks of Montpellier-le-Vieux (p. 3^). — About 31/i Bl.
farther on is Oardies, a hamlet with lignite mines, and 1 1/4 31. farther,
Cantorbe, curiously bviilt against dolomite rocks resembling ruins.
231/2 M. (from Millau by the old road) Nant (about 1570 ft. ; IlStel
Bouat; lih-eilloit) ^ a little town in a well -watered and fertile valley,
overlooked on the N. by the Roc Nantais (2775 ft.), on the S. bv the Roc
de St. Alban (2G30ft.), and ,>n the W. by the Larvae heights.'— 28 Bl.
St. Jean-du-Bruel (1705 ft. ; Hotel Vassas; C'hristal ; Grousset)., a bright little
town, in a fertile valley. Walks to the Moulin London, the Chateau d'Algue,
etc. — We here quit the valley of the Dourbie, which turns to the K.W.,
and ascend along the Larzac. — 32 31. Sauclieres. The road next descends
in zigzags and crosses a valley. — 38i/o 31. Alzon., a village on the Vis,
beyond which we pass through a tunnel. — 43 31. Les Trois-Ponis. About
2 31. to the left is Aumessas, in a wooded valley. — 441/2 31. Arre, a
manxifacturing village. — 45i/o 31. Bez-et-Kaparon, at the mouth of a ravine,
at the head of which is the Chateau d^Assas. — 48i/.> 31. MoU'eres, on a
hill. We cross the Arre. — 491/2 31. Aveze (p. 401). — 51 31. Le Vigan (p. 401).
We continue to follow the valley of the Tarn lor a short distance
via the station of Peyre. — iT^^/z M. .S^ Oeorges-de-Lnsenfon :
177 M. St. Bomc-de-Cernon.
181 M. Tournem'ue. in a highly picturesque valley, overlooked
by the high cliffs of the Larzac. About I'/aM. to the N. W. is
Roquefort, celebrated for its cheeses. These are mostly made in the
environs of the place , of goats' and sheep's milk . but acquire their
excellence in the grottoes and rocky caves under the village.
A branch -railway runs hence to (91/2 31.) St. Affrique (Cheval-Vert),
a manufacturing and commercial town with 7177 iuhab., on the Sorgues,
overlooked by a curious rock. This town was one of the strongholds of
the Calvinists, who successfully sustained a siege here in 1628. The line
is to be prolonged to AIbi (p. 95).
The Larzac is accessible from Tournemire by several paths, the best
being that tlirough the Boutinenque Ravine. Tliere is a magniticent view
from the plateau, of the valley of the Cernon and the Uouergue. This
plateau is crossed by the line which is being constructed from Le Vigan
to Albi, via Tournemire and St. Afl'rique.
185 M. .S^ Jean-et-St.Faul; 188 M. Luuglanet ; 191',aM. Moul-
paon. A tunnel a mile long. — lOG'A, M. Ceilhe.^- Ihxjueronde :
199'/2M. Les Cdbrils. Anothertunnel ofa'mile. — 202'/2M. .Tourels:
SOS'/'-jM. 7>»?m.s. Traversing a short tumiel, we enter the Valley of
the Orb, which is highly interesting both up and down stream as far
asCessenon (p. 86). — 207 M. LeBou>'qucl-d'Orh. Beyond (210 M.'
Latour (branch-line to (rca/sscssac, 3 M.) we cross a long viaduct.
212 M. B6darieux (Buffet; Hotel du Nord) , a commercial and
industrial town (7320 inhab.) , with cloth -fiwtories and tanneries,
on the Orb.
A branch -line runs hence to (Si/o 31.) (I raisses.'^ac , which has con-
siderable mines of coal, iron, copper, and argentiferous lead.
From Ukdaiuku.x to Castkes , 57 31., railwav in 2'/3-3i/:i lirs. (fares
11 fr. ,30, 8 fr. 50, U fr. 20 c.V — The line ascends the valley of the Orb.
2 3L Ilerepian.
380 Route 56. ST. PONS.
41/2 M. Lamalou-les- Bains. The station is 1/2 M. from the village —
Hotels. At Lamalou-le-Kas : Grand- H6tel; des Bains ^ du Nord, these three
of the first rank, 8-12 fr. per day. — Du Midi^ de la Pai:i\ de France, second
class, 6-8 fr. — At Lamalou-le-Centre, Grand-Hotel du Centre. — At Lama-
lou-le-Haut: Hotel de V Eiahlissement ; Taharii. — Numerous Villas a,nA Fiir-
nished Houses. — Eestaurant.«. Dtt Casino; de la Poste ; Monret ; de la Ver-
niire; and at the hotels. — Grand Casino Blanc at Lamalou-le-Bas, 25 fr.
per season. — Post and Telegrajih Offices at Lamalou-le-Bas and Lamalou-
le-Centre.
Lamalou-les-Bains , a thermal station amidst the mountain -spurs that
unite the Cevennes and the Montagne Koire, consists of Lamalou-le-Bas,
Lamalon-le-Centre, and Lamalou-le-Haut, all near each other and connected
by tramways, omnibuses, and brakes C10-25c.). There is a Bath-Estab-
lishment at each of these, and the waters (61-114° Fahr.) are especially
efficacious in rheumatic and nervous affections. The season lasts from
May 1st to Oct. 31st. The place boasts of several attractive promenades.
— Various interesting excursions may be made in the neighbourhood. On
foot or on donkeys (5 fr. per day): to the N. \V. , to Villecelle, a typical
Cevenole village; to Le Fraisse, with its legendary chestnut -tree, 3 hrs.
there and back; to the N.E. to the hermitage of Notre- Dame-de-Capimont
(4 hrs. ; fine view); to the S.W. to the priory of St. Pierre-de-RhMes, the
tV)undation of which is attributed to Charlemagne. — By carriage: via
Herdpian and the valley of the Afare to {31/2 M.) Villemagne.^ said to have
been endowed by Charlemagne. The church dates from the 12th century.
About 1/2 'I- farther is the picturesque Pont du Diable. To St. Gervais,
see below. — To the Valley of the Orb and the Gorges d'H'ric, 10 31. , an
interesting excursion requiring 1/2 day. The route leads through a highly
picturesque part of the valley via Le Poujol and Colombieres (see below).
The imposing rocky amphitheatre of the Gorges d'He'ric lie to the left
of the road, a little before the (6V4 i*I) Pont de Tarassac, a suspension-bridge
over the Orb, commanding a beautiful view. — To St. Gervais (Hotel Soulier),
a village with 2030 inhab. , picturesquely situated on a tributary of the
Mare, via the plateau of Taussac, returning by the valley of the Mare via
Villemagne (see above). — Ascent of Mont Caroux (3585 ft.; guide 6 fr. ;
fine view). AVe drive to (71/2 51.) I^ouc/t (carr. 15 fr.), about 1/2 I""- to the
N.W. of the plateau; or walk via Villecelle and Fraisse (see above), the inn
of (21/2 hrs.) Andabre, and (31/2 hrs.) Douch.
5 M. Le Poujol, with some ancient fortifications, beyond which the
valley of the Orb contracts and becomes highly picturesque. To the right
are the lofty clifl's of the Caroux (see above)."— At (91/2 M.) Colombiires
(Hotel) are a double waterfall, a ruined chateau, and a huge chestnut
tree. The Gorges d'Hiric, see above. — IO1/2 M. Mons. We now enter
the valley of the Jaur. 13 M. Olargues (Hotel), curiously situated on a
crag on tiie right bank, has some ancient fortifications and an old bridge.
The valley, no longer protected on the X. by the steep slopes of the
ifontagne de V Espinoiise (3550 ft.), becomes wildand bare. — 2O1/2 M. Rials
has clotli-maniifactures.
23 M. St. Pons ur St. Pons-de-Thomiires (Hdtel St. Denis, etc.), a cloth-
manufacturing town with 35G2 inhab., at the head of the valley in which
the .Taur rises, and at the foot of a clifV surmounted by a 16th cent, chapel.
The cathedral, built in the 13th and restored in the 18th cent., has a fine
old portal behind the present choir. — A diligence plies hence daily, via
ihe Col du Saumail or du Cabareiou (3115ft.) to (I31/2M.) La Salvetat
(2195 ft. ; Hotel Calbfrac), with 3600 inhab., on the right bank of the Agout,
a favourite summer-resjjj-t of the inhabitants of the plain of Narbonnais.
Here are the mineral springs of Rieumajou. The neighbourhood is bracing,
abounding in game and fi.sh , and a good centre for excursions. — From
St. Pons a diligence also plies to St. Chinian (p. 87) to which, however,
a railway is to be built. The picturesque route leads via the Defile of
the Nouve and down the valley of the Vernaiobres.
251/2 3L Courniou. A tunnel, nearly 1/2 M. long, takes us from the
basin of the Salesse to that of the Thore', and from the basin of the Me-
THE GAUSSES. IV. Route 57. 381
(literranean to that nf tlie Atlantic. — 31 M. Lahaftide-RouairoitT, a clotli-
making town , witli 3011 inhabitants. — 331/.. M. Lacabar'tde. At (39 M.)
St. Amans- Soldi, Marshal Snult (1769-18.52) was born and died. 42V2 M.
Les Alberts. — 45i/o M. Mazamet (Hotels), to the left, a prosperous cloth-
making town, with 14.666 inhab.. .situated on the Lame, at the foot of the
Montagne Noire (Pic de Ifore, 3970 ft., and I'ic de Montaiid, 3350 ft., ascen-
ded hence in 4-4i/.i hrs.). JIazam et contains theruined Chdteau d Uautpol,
and a monument to HotiUs, who introduced the textile industi-j-. — ■16i/.> M.
St. Alby ; 48' 'o 31. Roubinarir; 52 31. Labrnguiire , a manufacturing town
(3520 inhab.), with a ruined castle and a fine Romanesque tower. Beyond
(531/0 31.) Lo.':tange the train cro.sses the Thore and then the Agout. —
57 M.' Castres, see p. 79.
Beyond Bedarieux the railway traverses a viaduct and three
tunnels. — 219 M. Fai(<ieres.
Fkom Faugeres to 3I0NTPELLIER, 431/2 SI. , railway in 13/4 -31/4 hrs.
(fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 45, 4fr. 70 c.). We first traverse three tunnels. — 6M.
Oabian, a large village dominated by a ruined castle; 81/0 31. Roujan-Neffiis,
with coal mines; 1131. Caux , with 3000 inhabitants. A tunnel is passed.
— 14 31. yizas; 17i/.> 31. Paiilhan (Bufl'et). Railways to Beziers and Lodeve
see p. 86. — We cross the Heranli, and beyond (2031.) Campagnan is an-
other tunnel. 2131. St. Pargoire; 26 SI. Villeveyrac, followed by a tunnel.
31 31. ^foHiba^iH, also on the line from Be'ziers bv 3Ieze (p. 86) and connected
by rail with Cette (8 31.: p. 406). -- 3431. Cou'rnonterral; 3631. Fabrkguts;
.39 M. St. Jean-de-Vedas. — 431/2^1. Montpellier (p. 401).
Another tunnel. — 224 M. Laurena; 228'/2 M. Magalas; 230 M.
Espondeilhan ; 232'/2M. Bassan. — 233'/2M. Lieuran-Ribaute, a
station which owes the latter part of its name to the Chdteau de
R ib (lu t f {'R\Tpa. i\\tsi') , to the left. AVe pass beneath the line from
Montpellier via Meze , and , on the E. side of the town , join the
Cette line.
240 M. Bfueri> (p. 85\
57. The Gausses and the Canon of the Tarn.
The Gausses and the Caiion of the Tarn may he explored from Mende,
Florae, or Jleyrueis, by single travellers or small parties; hut for parties
of more than ten persons Jlillau (p. 378) is the only practicable centre,
aftbrding adequate lodging, carriages, etc. Those who can devote but
one day to the Tarn gorge, may see the most interesting part by leaving
3Iillau early and returning there the same evening. Taking the first
train to Banassac (p. 378) they there hire a carriage for La 3Ialene (20 fr. ),
having previously given notice to the boatmen there to be in readiness
(p. 383). On reaching Le Rozier (p. 386), carriages may be obtained at
Rascalou's for the return to 3Iillau (15-20 fr.). A public conveyance also
starts thence at 4 p. m.
a. From Marvejols to Mende and Florae.
To Mende, 22 31.. R.mi.wat in ii/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 25. 3 fr. 20. 2 fr.
35 c.). — From 3Iende to florae, about 32 31., public conveyance. Pedes-
trians bound for the Tarn gorge may shorten their route by not going
beyond Ispagnac, which is also reached still more directly from the
(12 31.) station of Balsieges (see below). — From 3Iende to' Sie. Enimie
a carriage may be hired from Jacques Archer: via Ispagnac (p. 383), for
3 pers. 20, 4 pers. 25, 6 pers. 30 fr. : via Sauveterre (p. 382), 15, 18, and 22 fr.
Mariejuls and thencf to (3'/2M.) Le Monnstier, see p. 378. Tlie
branch-line to Mende, which is to be extended to meet the main line
from Clermont-Ferrand to Ntmes (La Bastide, p. 375), crosses the
382 V. Route 57. MENDE.
Colagne, passes through a tunnel, and ascends to the E. the winding
gorge of the Lot, crossing the stream before and after another tunnel.
To the S., on the left bank, is the Causse de Sauveferre.
The Gausses are, as their name indicates (Latin 'calx'), plateaux of
Jurassic limestone, occurring in the Lozere and the neighbouring depart-
ments. The principal are the Causse de Sauveterre ^ Causse Mfjan ('du
Milieu' ; p. 383) , Causse Noir (p. 387), and the Larzac (p. 379). They are
bounded by the valleys of the Lot, Tarn, Jonte, Duurbie, some of their
tributaries and those of the Herault. As plateaux they are not remark-
able but are merely bare uplands 2500-3700 ft. above the sea, without
water, and almost treeless, where scarcely anything beyond a little barley
and oats will grow, and with a very scanty population. Here and there
the general level is broken by 'Couronnes' ('crowns') or mounds; and at
certain spots, particularly on the Causse Mejan , are 'avens' or chasms
into which the rainfall sinks, to issue again in the eopiovis spiings of the
gorges. There are also a number of dolmens or table-stones. — The gorges
worn by the rivers are, on the contrary, exceedingly interesting, and a
visit should on no account be omitted. The principal gorge is the
Canon of the Tarn (p. 384).
7 M. Le VUlard-Salxlles ; 10 M. Chanac, a little town with a
ruined castle. Beyond (14 M.) Barjac are two bridges, a tunnel,
a viaduct, and another tunnel. — 18 M. Balsier/es.
From Balsieges (Mende) to Florac, two roads, IS and 201/^ M. The
shorter road traverses the Causse de Sauveterre where it leaves another
road to the right leading to (11 M.) Ste. Enimie (p. 385), via (6 M.) Sauve-
terre. It descends to the S. E. of the Causse , already aft'ording a fine
view of the Tarn Canon, to (12 JI.) Ispagnac (p. 383), and 2 3L farther on
joins the road from Mende (see below). The longer road leaves the
shorter one on the right, and leads to the E. through a little valley
via (21/2 M.) liouffiac. About 4i/o M. farther, it also joins the road from
Mende to Florac (see below).
Beyond Balsieges we cross the Lot twice more, on each side of
a tunnel. To the right are the ramparts of the Causse de Mende.
22 M. Mende (2425 ft.; Hotel Barrel; Mamte, well spoken of),
a dirty and badly built but pleasantly situated town with 8033 in-
habitants, was formerly the capital of the Ge'vaiidnn, and is now the
chief town of the department of the Lozere and the seat of a bishopric.
It stands on the left bank of the Lot, at the foot of the Causse de
Me»idc (3475 ft.), which raises its perpendicular ramparts 1000 ft.
above it. The Cathedral, originally of the 14th cent., was rebuilt
between 1600 and 1620, after having been partly destroyed by the
Calvinists. It has two spires dating from 1508-1512, which are
280 and 210 ft. high respectively. In front of the cathedral is the
bronze statue, by Dumont, of Urban V., the 6th of the Avignon
Popes, and a native of the district. The Salle d'Asile contains a
small Muse'e. Above the town is the Hermitage de St. Privat, an
ancient and much frequented pilgrim-resort.
Diligence to Langoyne and Ville/ort, see p. 375. Roads to Florac via
Balsieges, see above.
The direct road to Florac llrst passes the E. extremity of the
Causse de Mende. — 4'/2 M. Brenoux, a village 2'/., M. to the N.E.
of which is Lanue'jols, with a Koman tomb of great size. — 8 M. St.
Etienne-du- Valdonnes, a straggling village with a silver-lead mine.
Farther on. to the right, is the road to Balsieges via Roufftac. —
ISPAGNAC. V. Route 57. 383
10'/2 M. Col tie Montmiiaf (3430 ft.) whence there is a very fine
view. Beyond (IB'/a M.) xVosiercs we enter the valley of the Tarn,
andjoin, on the right, the road to Balsieges via Ispagnac (see above).
We save time by proceeding direct to (P 4 M.) Ispagnac instead of
going on to Florae. To the right is the Causse Mejean (see below.)
— 20 M. St. Jnlien-du-dourg. We cross the Tarn , which here
waters a pretty valley, and ascend the valley of the Tarnon.
22 M. Florae (2290 ft.; Hotel Melquion : de Paris) , a town of
2157 inhab.. at tiie foot of the Causse Mejean or Mejan and on the
left bank of the Tarnon. Its principal object of note is the Source
du Pecher. which, rising in the Causse above the town, forms
tine cascades after heavy rains, nearly as large as the Fontaine de
Vaucluse ip. 425).
A road leads hence to the E. to (16 M.) Pont - de - Montvert (p. 376),
wlience excursions may be made among the Lozere mountains.
From Florac to Meyrueis (Peyrei-eau) via the Coi, de Perjuret,
22 M., public conveyance. This route is a continuation of the preceding
into the Tarnou vallev, dominated on the right bv the escarpments of
the Causse Mejean, m'ore than 1900 ft. high. — 3 31. Le Mazel. — G M.
Saigas, with a fine chateau. liryond (S M.l lV6ron (Hotel Bragouse), we
quit the valley. — From (11 M.» FraissiHet-de-Foiirqiies the road ascends
in zigzags (short-cuts) to the Col de Perjuret (3380 ft. ; hut). This is the
only point where the Causse Jlejean is not isolated: llie neck of land
which connects it with the Aigoual (p. 387) is at one point only 30 ft.
broad. We descend into the vallev of the Jonie, which bounds the Causse
on the S. — 17 M. Gatiniire.^. — 22 51. .Vtijriieif (p. 38?).
b. From Florac to Feyreleau vid, the Canon of the Tarn.
11/2 day. The excursion is possible in one day, if the start is made
from Ispagnac and no long stoppage is made on the way. The whole
gorge may be visited on foot, but tourists generally go by carriage to
Ste. Enimie and thence by boat to Le Rozier. I/4I M. from Peyreleau.
Some travelUrs, however, prefer going on foot from Ste. Enimie, as they
thus have more leisure to examine the canon, while the navigation, al-
though not dangerous, presents difficulties which divert attention.
Carriages, from Florac to Sle. Enimie, with one horse 12, two horses
15 fr. — Boats. There are two services of boats from Ste. Enimie to Le
Rozier; fare by both 42 fr. for 1-5 pers. 1st Service (St. .lean at Ste. Enimie,
Bernard at St. Chely: Cas. Monginoux at La Malene, and Alph. Solanet
at Les Vignes) : from Ste. Enimie to .S7. Clirli/, 81 o, thence to f-a Jfal^ne,
81/21 thence to St. Prejet (Vignes), 10, and thence to Le Rozier , 15 fr. —
2nd Service (.Tustin Malaval at Ste. Enimie and Justin Monginoux at
La Malene): from Ste. Enimie to ha Mali-He. 13, from La JIalene to Les
Vignes, 13, from Les Vignes to Le Rozier, 16 fr. — To avoid loss of time,
it is advisable to send information a <lay or two beforehand to the
boatmen. — Packages weighing more than l/._> cwt. should not be taken
on the excursion from La Malene to Le Pas-de-Souci, because the boatmen
have to carry them on to (U '4 M.) Les Vignes. When the party is large
it is well to send notice to the hotel - keepers. For an excursion on the
Causses provisions and water should be taken.
Florac. see above. "We return in the direction of Mende for
4' 4 M. (seep. 382' and then descend to the left into the Tarn gorge.
()' ,'4 M. Ispagnac (1740 ft. : Hotel Laget), a picturesquely situated and
straggling village, on the right bank of the Tarn and at the mouth
of the ravine through whidi the Balsieges road descends (p. 3ft2).
Ruins of the Chateau de Rocheblave, see p. 384. Opposite the vil-
384 V. Route 57. CANON DU TARN.
lage the Tarn forms a peninsula, on which is Que'zac, connected with
Ispagnac by a 14th-17th cent, bridge.
The *Ca&oii du Tarn, still more beautiful beyond Ste. Enimie or
rather St. Ch^ly, and particularly so between La Malene and Le Pas-
de-Soucy, begins at Ispagnac and extends as far as LeRozier, a dis-
tance of more than 31 M.
It is the most curious of the gorges produced in the Gausses by
the erosion of the streams, which were much more abundant during
the glacial epoch in the C^vennes. As the name indicates, it has
suggested comparison with the celebrated Canon of the Colorado in
the United States and by some it has even been thought to be more
interesting, though less gloomy. To the right and left the sheer rocks
of the Gausses de Saiiveterre and M^Jean rise to a height of from 800
to 1100 ft. , the distance between their summits varying from 1/2 to
3/4 M. It is difficult to imagine a more impressive gorge. Gigantic
ramparts and perpendicular cliffs at one time overhang the river,
at others retire in terraces, formed of the several strata of the lime-
stone and as varied in outline as they are in colour. Here the rocks
are shivered into a thousand different shapes and there appear yellow
limestone, black schistous marl, and pink and brown dolomite. In
addition there is abundant vegetation (vines and fruit trees), afford-
ing a charming contrast to the rocks, as well as clear, full springs
and many caverns.
The windings which the gorge describes in its 30 M. course con-
tribute to its beauty and provide a series of pleasant surprises for
the traveller. Even when the end is reached, we have still to explore
the very curious gorges of the Jonte and the Dourbie and the still more
remarkable MontpeUier-le- Vieux, the 'viile du diable', a fantastic
rocky chaos, formed by the decomposition of the magnesian limestone.
It is impossible to describe these natural curiosities. They far excel
the scenery of the Saxon Switzerland and there is scarcely anything
at all equal to them in Europe except perhaps the Romsdal and other
fjords in Norway. The Tarn Canon and Montpellier-le-'\'ieux . hi-
therto little known , partly no doubt owing to their situation , far
from the main tourist-routes, are now rapidly becoming celebrated,
thanks to explorers who have of late particularly called attention to
them, and to the opening of the railways giving easy access to the
Gausses.
The route from Ispagnac to Ste. Enimie (about 4 hrs. on foot)
follows the right bank of the Tarn, passing the picturesquely situ-
ated Chateau de Rorlieblave (16th cent.), recently restored. A little
farther, on the left bank, is a mill worked by one of the numerous
springs formed by the rains whicii filter through the limestone of the
Gausses. lO'/a M. Montbrvn, also on the left bank. The road then
passes the linmlets of Poujols and Blnjoux, On the other side are
the ruins of the, Chatedu de Charbonniere^i, and farther on Castelbonc,
where tiiere is another ruin. This is the most remarkable point be-
LA MALKNE. V. Route 57. 385
Iweeii Ispaguac and Ste. Knimie and one of the prettiest parts of tlit?
gorge. In a neighbouring grotto is a very copious spring. — IS'/^M.
Prades, on the right bank. The ramparts of the Gausses, already
very high, approach the river more and more closely at Les EcoKta*
^e.ho).
17M. Ste. Enimie {liutet Ot Path or St. Jean; dii Commerce;
boats, see p. 383). a town of lOSOiiiluib.. owes its origin to a mon-
astery, founded about 030. of whidi a few uninteresting n'mains
are left. It occupies a curiou> position . at one of the great angles
formed by tlie gorge and in a kind of huge well. 1650 ft. deep. Above
issues the beautiful Fontaine ile lUule and below is the Sonrce iln
Coitssof. The river is spanned by a bridge, across which passes tlir
road via the Causses from ISalslegi-s (p. 382) to .Meyrueis (IS'j'^I-
I'nini .Ste. Knimie; p. 387}. There is also a footpath on tlie right bank
t()(4-4',4hrs.j La .MaliMie.difltcult at places. Roats take about3'/.. hrs..
I'xcluding halts, to perform thf same distance (p. 383j. l'>y either
route the every - varying scenery steadily increases in grandeur and
interest Ijeyond St. Chely. - At '1' ^hr.' s/. Clithi-dn-Tnrn, a vil-
lage oji the left bank, the gorgi; forms a second elbow or angle, and
a^ain turns soon afterwards at /./•,■> I'onniiado'ren (inhabited grottoes),
where there is a dam. .Many minor windings are also passed, each
re\ealing some unexpected beauty. To the right is the Chatenn de
I'l daze, partly dating from the 15th cent., before which the path as-
cends to <ross the /'</.x de l' llitrolette, the only diflcult spot, and one
which those subject to giddiness will avoiil. In 1 hr. from Les Poug-
nadoires we reach tliedam of H<niterire. a village with a rniue<l castle.
alVordins a very tine view of our road.
La M aldne (Ifdfel Mun(/ino>i.r.{\ij.'2\.,fT.. gooilwini;) is 1-1 '/4hr.
from Hanterive. This considerable \illage. with a bridge, lies at the
nnuith of two ravines by which we may ascend to the Causses. Here
al-o are a chateau belonging to the family of .Montesquieu du Tarn:
an abundant spring: a grott the left bank, and others in the
neighbourhood.
We next follow an easy path, passing under the shelter of pro-
jecting rocks, and skirt on the left the Horher du Plitniol with the
ruins of a castle. Beyond the Sunrce de I.' Anijle, to the right, we pass
the Rocher de Monfeitquieu, on which also are ruins, to the left, and
reach the entranee of the Detroit, to the rittht of which is the (Irotte
(If hi Mi/mie.
The *D6troit, also calle.l /.c.v Elioih. 40min. from La.Vlalene and
about 3 M. long, is the most remarkable part of the Tarn Canon. The
gorge here contracts to a w idth of les> than ' , .M. between the summits
of its flanking rocks, which exceed 1600ft. In height: and there is
no room even for a path. As the gorge winds the rocks seem to bar
the passage, and sometimes they overhang so much that they appear
to form a gigantic bridge across the river. The w hole efl'ect is majestic,
w ithoiit any approach to the grotesque, while the picturesqneness i*
l!ae<leker. Southern France. ->)
:586 V. Ronte 57. PEYRELEAU.
♦Mihanced by tlie rich colouring of the cliffs. Although we have
not yet come to the most difficult passage, the Tiavigation continually
calls for all the dexterity and exporienco of the boatmen. The water
is exceedingly clear, so that the fish may be seen swimming below.
The climax of the whole scene is reached when we emerge from
the Detroit, at La Croze, into the =* Cirque des Baumes, a sort of
gulf at an angle of the Canon . the most remarkable spot in the
whole gorge. Here are the hamlets of Les Hanines-Yieilles and
l.eii Baumes-Basxe" and the pilgrimage Chapel of St. line, perched
on the sides of the cirque. At Leu Ba times- Claude.x. to the N.. is a.
grotto with three stories. Farther on we pass throngli another magni-
ficent defile, before reach i tig the Pas-de-Soucy.
The Pas-de-Soucy, 'i'^hrs. from La Malene. is a chaos of fallft>.
roiks. where the Tarn disappears from view, and boat navigation is
interrupted. A road starting from Les Raumes , follows the right,
bank, in front of the Soiirc^e. one of the largest rocks, and dominated
also on the right by the Ruche I' Aiguille, '260 ft. high.
IV4M. Les F/(77?e8(Solanet's Inn, small) and on the opposite bank
St. Prejet-du-Tarn. Here we find the fourth of the Tarn bridges
in the Caiion crossed by the roads over the Gausses. The boat jour-
ney onward is still very interesting, but it presents serious dif-
ficulties in the shape of rapids and rocks in mid -channel, known
thoroughly only by the fishermen of Les Vignes. The descent to Le
Uozier is made in 2 hrs. , whilst for the ascent 8 hrs. are ne-
cessary. By the footpath on the right bank it takes 2'/2 hrs. We
pass Villaret and {3 M.) Cambon. On the other baT\k are some rnins,
the Pas de /M/r, La Sabliere. and the Pic dr Cinf/legrns (3280ft.).
On theright bank are the cirque and hermitage of St. Marcelin. Then
lui the same side, the Mas-de-la- Font ; on the left Plaisance, beyond
which the Canon widens to form the basin of Le Rozier.
To the left is Le Rozier (1290 ft.; Hotel Uascalou or des Voya-
uenrs, well spoken of), a little village at the confluence of the Tarn
and Jonte, with a bridge over each river. Carriage to the station of
Aguessac (p. 878). lOfr. Omnibus to Millau. see below.
Peyreleau (IJotel Dievdonne' or du Contmerce . near the bridge)
is a somewhat larger village, on the other bank of the Jonte. Fine
view from the height to the W. of the village.
From Peykeleau ToMii.t.AU via the riglit bank of the Tarn, 13 M.,
public conveyance at 5.4.5 a. in. and 4 p. in. (returning from Millau at 7 a.m.
and 2 p. m.). This picturesque part of the valley suffers from comparison
with the finer upper part. The Causse Noir (p. 387) forms liere also on
the left, huge walls, rising to height of more than 1500ft. — 21/:.. M.
.Uostn(joux. — 61/4 W. Riviire, a straggling village dominated by the Roclier
lie Peyvelade (1825 ft.) and tlie enorniou.s Jiiiines rle J'eyrelacle (2780 ft.), where
the caverns are used in the manufacture of Roquefort cheese (see p. 379).
91/4 M. Aguessac (p. 378). 13 M. Millau (p. 378).
From Peyreleat to Mbyrieis isy the Valley op the Jonte, 13 M.,
omnibus at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. (returning from Meyrueis at 2.30 a. m. and
1p.m.). This route ascends the very interesting Valley of the Jonte, which
at first forms a gorge between the Cans.se Mejean and Causse Noir, having
BHAMAI5IAU. V. Ronle 57. 387
almost the cliaraeti'r of the Tarn Cafion, on a small scale. At about li/.jlir.
from Le Rozier is Le Truel: :' 4 hr. farther Aes Domes, at the mouth of a
ravine: ami 2 his. farther, Meyrueu.
Heyrueis (2510 ft.; JlCtel IJvfjac: liniilet; Parguel) is a little town on
tlie .lonte, near tlie end of tlie Canssfe Noir. Among the Grottoes in the
neigliboiirhood , the chief is the magniticent stalactite cavern known as
WitGrotte de Darcjilan, 3'>/.< 31. to the W. , which was discovered in 1880.
On the other side of the .Tonte is the Grotte de Xabrigaf , noted chiefly
for its old world relics and the great quantity of bones of cave-bears
which have been found in it. — From Meyrueis to Florae, see \\. 383. Car-
riage with one horse to (Si/o hrs.) Ste. Enimie, via the Causse Noir, 10-12 fr.
About 3'V4 M. to the S. of Meyrueis is St. Sativeiir-des-Poiircils, with
mines nf silver-lead ami copper. In tlie neighbourhood, to the E. , is
the curious *Source de Bramabiau ('bellowing ox'), a cascade, 46 ft.
high, foriued by the lionheur. This stream, which formerly fell from
a limestone clitl" 500 ft. in height, has now bored for itself through the
rock a subterranean channel, more than 500yds. long, e.xplored in 18S>S
by Jlr. E. A. Martel. It issues from the channel like a ton-ent, into
a gorge 650 ft. deep, hollowed out by its waters.
The ascent of the Aifional (p. 401), tn the S.W.. may be made from
Meyrueis in about Gi.j hrs. there and back, via the beautiful valley of
the Bute'zon, one of the tributaries of the Jonte. The descent may be
made to Le Vigan (p. 401>, via La fli'reprede, on the S.W. (p. 401), or" the
Source de Bramabiau (see above) may be conveniently visited on the
return via La Si-reiirkle and Camprieux (Philippine Inn).
c. From Peyreleau to Montpellier-le-Vieux and thence to Millau
through the Valley of the Dourbie.
li/'.j-2 days. Even a hasty visit to 5IontpeUier-le-Vieu.\ requires at
least a day. If two days can be given to it, the night should be spent
at JIaubert, the neighbouring hamlet (6 beds); if not, travellers descend
to La Roque-Ste. Marguerite (p. 389), thence visit the valley of the Dourbie,
and rejoin the railway at Millau. A guide is necessary for Montpellier-
le-Vieu.\ (one of the Robert family at Maubert, or Froment, of La Roque,
who owns a mule). Provisions must be taken. Carriage from Le Rozier
15 fr. ; mule 6-10 iv. per day.
A route ascends in zigzags to the S., to the Caasse Noir, which
o%ves its name to the dark colour of its weird and stunted pines.
A footpath offers a short-cut. We quit the route near the summit,
when it turns finally to the E.
Thf Ravines ov Lks I'af.iks anp rnr, Riov-Skc, toM-ards which this road
leads, are well worth a visit. We soon pass Alei/rac, and (hen the J/er-
mitage of St. Jeaii-de-lSalme (U-13th cent.). Thence a padi leads to the
N. to \\\e Rarine of les I'alie.'i, which descends towards the Jonte. In the
ravine is a magnificent view-point from the top of a precipice, on the
other side of which are the ruins of the Hermitage of St. Afiquel, on some
isolated rocks, difficult of access (1 hr. ), whence there is also a very fine
view over the Jonte valley. The head of the ravine, the Cirque de Ma-
dame, is also very interesting. In 2 hrs. thence, we reach the Riou-Sec, a
ravine to the S. which descends towards the Dourbie. On the side are
the Roques-AUe.^ ("high rocks'; 160-200 ft. high), a sort of natural for-
tress, seen also from the route. About ll/-j hr. is required to descend
into thi' ravine and ascend on the other side to Maubert (see below).
The path continues in a S. direction. Behind us is a fine view
of the Tarn Canon, then, farther on. in front of us appear the Causse
of theLarzac and, to the left, the Roques-Altes, the .\igoual, etc. —
Maubert (2675 ft.) is a hamlet reached from Peyreleau in 2 hrs. on
font. 2V8hrs. hv mule, and 3 hrs. by light carriage. Good accom-
Of) *
388 V. lloufe 57. MONTPELLIKR-LE-VIKUX.
modation is to be had at the Roberts' farm. About ^j\ M. farther
are the Cirques de la MllUire and du Lac (see below), between
which we pass, and wliich themselves form part of Moiitpellier.
*Moiitpellier-le-Vieux (perhaps from 'nioiit pel^', bald mountain)
is not an inhabited place, but a spot covered with huge rocks and
blocks of the strangest forms, a fantastic city, the 'Ville du Diable'
according to tlie popular belief, it remained unknown till 1883,
when Mons. L. de Malafosse , whose chateau is near Mende, called
public attention to it. Since then it has been especially explored
by Mons. E.-A. Martel, of the French Alpine Club, who has drawn
a plan of it and to whom we owe the most precise information. The
[dateau occupieil by this natural curiosity, to which no parallel
can be found except in the much smaller Bois de Paiolive (p. 394),
is about I'/jM. square. In the words of Mons. de Malafosse ■■ we
cannot without having seen it, form an idea of this collectioTi ol
apparent ruins, where, by the side of rocks representing gigantic
monsters, are facsimiles of imposing monuments. The whole en-
tangled mass of streets, arches, passages, and projecting cornices,
sometimes intersecting one another at right angles as in a town laid
out by line, sometimes forming a square or crescent, is a veritable
labyrinth of about 500 acres. Isolateil rocks, in the shape of towers
or pyramids, are 'more than 300ft. high, and some of the 'streets'
pass between rows of 'edifices', 100-200 ft. in perpendicular heiglit
The whole of this huge space is abandoned to complete solitude ".
In order to gain an idea of the whole and its general arrange-
ment it is better ntjt to descend at once into the cirque, but to con-
tinue straight on to tlie rocks which block on the S. the road by
which we approach, and to mount those on the left, called the Ciu-
tad from their resemblancte to a citadel. Thence we have a really
marvellous *View, comprising in particular the five (Jirqi(ei< of the
Cyclopean city , with their fantastic surroundings. Certain parts
had already received names from the people of the country, while
the explorers have assigned others according to resemblances more
or les> apparent, tand these are now fairly well known to the guides. It
is sufficient to remark that the corridor by which we arrive and its
continuation beyond the rocks \ery nearly divide the town in two
parts, one to the left or K., the other to the right or W. In the first
arc 4 cirques or amphitheatres: to the S., the7>'o>'9/'c<ie^; to the N., the
Iaic; and beyond, to theE., theA7)if//.s and the (J/fenie. In the second
is the Milliire , comprising the Ville, to the N., and the Forum, to
the S. The Cirque des Rouqiiettes is the smallest but tlie finest;
its longer diameter measures 1G50 ft., the shorter one 650 ft., while
the walls are .380 ft. high. The Cirque du l^ac, where, however,
there is no water, is much lai'ger. The Amafs somewhat resemble
a 'place' or square. Near them a 'doorway' in an isolated rock, an
alley of 'obelisks', etc., are pointed out. A striking*View is obtained
from the top of the rocks, in the direction of the Dourbie. The
BEAUCAIRE. v. liuufe 58. 389
MiUlere is the most wooded part; pines, arbutus, and holly flourish
especially. An 'aven' (p. 382) separates this part from the llouquettf's.
From the Plan <lel lianiie. on the ridge next the Dourbie, we com-
mand another remarkably good *Vie\v of the weird city. — We ma>
thence descend directly to the valley of the Dourbie.
The Valley of the Dourbie, between the Causse Noir and tin-
Larzac, is the finest gorge of the Causscs next to the Tarn Canon,
at least in its lower part, where it bends from S. E. to A\'. , to
join the Tarn gorge, at Millau. — La lioque- Sfc. Manjaerifi-
{1310ft.; Parguefs Inn; guide, see p. 387) is the nearest villagi' tn
Montpellier-le-Vieux . I'^hr. to the S. of Maubert, and 8 M. from
Millau, at the end of the Riou-Sec ravine. It has a ruined castle.
About 3-^4 M. up stream is the village of St. Vifrnu. very pictur-
esquely situated among the rocks of the Causse Noir. at the mouth of
the *St.Veran liarine, the finest part of the valley, which extends
for more than 2' oM. beyond the village (road toLe Vigan, see p. 40 1).
— Downstream, the prettiest part is the Val Nec/ie ravine. 2 M. from
L;i Ifoqiu'. In this part also is the Grotte dWIuech. o* '2 M. (from
l.a Hoque) Le Monmt . with the Chateau of the Bonald family, and
the tombs of the cardinal and the philosopher of that name. — 6'/4M.
Mii-t^ehifiii. ,s \I. .W/V/f/H (p. 378'.
58. From Lyons to Nimes.
a. Vi^ Tarascon, on the left bank of the Rhone.
173 M. Haii.wav in G:t 4-8:t,4 Ins. (fares 34 fr. 55, 25 Ir. 95, 19 fr. .'Jc).
— The direct line from Paris to Ninies passes via Clerniont-Ferrami
(.«ee R. 55).
To (1,06* 2 '^I') Tarosco)! . see K. 61. We cross the Rhone by a
viaduct nearly 60O yds. long. To the right is the suspension-bridge.
157 M. Beaucaire {UOteJ dii Luxemhourij) . a commercial town
of 9824 inhab.. which owes its name (Bellum Quadrum) to its castle.
in ruins since the 17th century. The celebrated Van-, in the latter half
of July, has lost much of its importance. The Be<inc<dre Camil ,
more than 30 M. long, connects the Rhone with the Mediterranean
niMr .\igues-Mortes (p. 400). — We leave on the right the line to
Hcmoulins and Uzes . etc. (p. 392). and traverse a broken countrx.
with viaducts, tunnels and cuttings. — 163' 'jM. Bellei/ardc ; 166' -^-^l-
MiHidnel-Redessan. — 170 M. Gii':,an is the junction for the line
on the right bank (see below^. Farther on, to the right, is the direct
line from Paris via Clermont-Ferrand (R. 55) : opposite is the Tour
Magne (p. 398). - 173 M. Mmes (p. 395>.
b. Vid. Le Tell and Bemoulins, on the right bank of the Rhone.
173 M. I!.\ii,\v.\Y in 71 4-I2 Ins. (fares a.s abuvf). lies! vit'ws Id the l.-fl.
Lyons, see p. 210. ~ The trains start Irom the Gare de Perraclic
Torl3</.2M.) Ghoni sceR. 34 b. Wetravcrsc a tunnel upwards of 1000
390 V. Route 58. TOUKNON. From Lyons
yds. long. — Between (16 M.) Lo/Ve and the I'ollowiiigtitation, Yienne
(p. 407) becomes visible. — 201/2 M. Ste. Colomhe' la- Vienne, a
niarket-tow]i connected with Vienne by a suspension-bridge. Farther
on is the celebrated Cofe-Iiotie vin^ysird. — 24 M. ArnjJM/s; 27\'., M.
Condrieu, a little town to the right, on a liill, with a ruined castle.
— 31 M. Chavanay, whence the ascent ot'MontPilat (p. 228) maybe
made in 4-4 V'j hrs., via (3^4 M.) Pelussin (omnibus). — 38 M. St.
Pierre-de-Bauf. On the left arc seen the Dauphine Alps. - At
(38 M.) Serntres the Rhone is spanned by a suspension-bridge. -
40'/2 M. Peyraiid, also a station on the St. Rambert and Firminy line
(p. 198). — lU'.jM. Andance; 48 M. Sarrnsj SS'/j M. Vion.
58 xM. Tournon, a town of 5286 inhab., with an old Gothic castle
and a church dating partly from the 13-14th centuries. The Lycee
was founded in 1542 by Cardinal de Tournon (1489-1562), a native
of theto>vn, and one of the ministers of Francis I. Tournon is con-
nected with Tain (p. 409) on the opposite bank by two bridges. —
59V2 M. Mauves. — 65'/2 M. >S^. Pe'ray , noted far its white and
sparkling wines. The vines have suffered greatly from the phyl-
loxera. Valence (p. 410) is 2'/2 M. distant on tlie opposite bank
(suspension - bridge ; omnibus). To the right are the ruins of the
Chateau de Crussol {\i. HO). — TOM. Soyons: 72' » -M. Clutrmes;
75 M. Beaucltastel. We cross the Erieux. — 78 M. Lavoulte-.s^u'-
Rhone, a town with 4219 inhab., commanded by an ancient fortress,
and possessing important manufactories, blast-furnaces, foundries,
ironworks, etc. Line from Livron to Privas, see p. 411. — M'e cross
tlie Ouvhe. — 81 M. Le Pouzin, a small town of ancient origin, oa
the Ouveze, with industrial establishments like tliose of Lavoulte.
b^Roii Le Pouzin td Pkivas (Coiron) ^ 13 JI. , railway in 45-50 min.
(laics 2 tV. 65, 2 fr. , 1 (V. 45 c). Tliis branch-line fn-st makes a detour
to the S., but returns to the Ouveze valley at Privas. — 41/2 M. >^t. Lager-
liressac; 7V-j M. Chomerac. — 13 M. Privas tl055 It.:, Hotel du Louvre;
Croix d'Or;, "with 7600 inhab., is the ehiet' town of the departinent of
the Ardiche. It has important manufactures and iron mines, btit no
interesting monuments, having been burnt and rased to the ground in
1029 by Louis XIII., for revolting and beading tlie Calvinist part.v in the
Vivarais.
To the S.W. of Privas is the Coiron, a spur of the Ccvennes, which
.starts from tlie Vivarais mountains on the N. \V. and skirls the left bank
of the Ardeche, to the S.E., as far as its coiilluence with the Illione. It
is a curious mass of granite and limesfiine, covered with a volcanic layer
of lava and puzzolana, 300-400 ft. thick. Entirely surrounded by ravines,
it presents some interesting scenery. A road leailiugto Le Puy (56 JI. ; p. 248),
via Le Jlonastier (44 JI. ; Oerbier-de-.Toncs; Mezenc; p. 252), follows its
crest to the N.W., via (61/4 M. from Privas) the Roc de Gourdoii (3480 ft.),
whence there is a very tine view, and (9V4 ^I- farther on) the iSUjiial du
(^/laiiip-de-Jfars (4410ft.), an equally good view-point. --In about ll/-j hr.
thence (17 31. from Privas) we reach JUzil/iac (Inn), a .straggling village
whence a road lead.s to the S., via the picturesque valley of the N'ulane,
to Antraigues (91/4 M- ; p. 393) and Vals (l.Wj 51. ; p. 393). — Another road,
turning to the left on this side of the Hoc de (iouvdon (see above), crosses
the range by the Col de I'Kscrittet (2600 ft.) and descends on the S., via
V'esfeanx (13":'/4 3I. : Inn) to (18 .M.) Aubenas. (p. 333).— \ third road crosses
this range to the S. of Privas. via Her:hne (8 JL : 2500 ft. J and Montbrul
(o yinui. VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON. V. Iluute58. 3dl
(II1/4M.), a li.auik-t with grottnes and an extinct crater, about 2 M. from
th« station of .5*. Jean-U-CenteKitr (p. 333).
84' '2 M. Bail ; 89 M. Ciuas, near whiih are the ruins of a forti-
lit'il abbey of the 9th cent., whose Romanesque church still remains.
Mulberry trees abound. — 14 M. Bocheniaiire . with the imposing
ruins of a «astle, on tlie summit of a basaltic rock. About l'/4 M. to
the W. is the extinct volcano of Chenavuri , with a basaltic cause-
way, known as the Pave' de^ Gt'ants.
97 M. Le Teil (Buffet), a town of 4490 inhab. . with a ntiin.l
castle, and important manufactures of hydraulic lime and cement.
The road to (3 M.) Mont^limar (p. 411 : diligence in connection with
;ill trains, via Yiviers. see below) here crosses a suspension-bridjrc
Line to Alais , see p. 39i}. We cross the Fvnyol. Two tunnels.
102M. Viviers-s?n'-yi'/«o»e, a picturesque old town of 3368inhab..
the former capital of the Vivnniis, has a Romanesque and Gothic
cathedral and several quaint old houses. Lime, lement. and nuisaic
cubes are manufactured here. — 107 M. .SY. Monfnnt. — 110 M.
Bourg-St. And^ol, with 4284 inhab., has a Romanesque church of
the 11th century. Suspension-bridge to (3 M.) Fierrelatte (p. 41'2't.
Beyond (116 M.) St. Ji(i>f-.<f. Marcel we cross the Afdechf. —
120 M. Pont-St. Esprit, a town of 4962 inhab., with a stone bridge,
920 yds. long, over the Rhone, built in 1260-1309 by the Treres
Pontifes' ip. 416>. on which there was formerly a I'liapel dedicated
to the Holytrhost. The old citadel ami some quaint old houses are
interestitig. -- On the left bank of the Rhone, farther on, is Mon-
drafiou. with its ruined castle. The railway quits the river. To the
left, beyond a tunnel, is the ruined Chateau de Gicon.
127 M. Bagnols, a town of 4458 inhab. , on the Cize. Between
fJ30M.) Oi-^ari-CliUsclan and (133 M.) J.' Ardoi^e we cross the Tare
Line to Alais. see p. 395.
I35V2 -^'- ■'>'^- Oenies-Montfaiiron. l5eyond (139 M.) the little
town of lloqueinauie, with its ruined castle, we again approach the
Rhone. — 144 M. \'Ul.e,neine.-I'iijniit. the station for the village of
Pvjaut. situaterl on this side, and for Villeueure-lifi-Arifinon.
Villeneuve-16s- Avignon, on the right bank of the Rhone, oppo-
site Avignon (p. 414: omnibus), and less than ' 4 hr. from the station
of l^ont-d'Avignon (see below) . once a flourishing town under tlio
popes of Avignon, lias now only 2644 inhabitants. Several interest-
ing buildings tlate from the papal period. Overlooking the town
is the ancient Fort St. .-indve'. which has a hue enceinte flanked b\
towers. In the interior are a coiivent and several houses inhabited
by poor families. On the bank of the Rhone, opposite the Pont St.
Beiiezet, are a Twer and other remains of the 14th cent, fortifica-
tions. In the priiuipal street is the ancient (.'arflitisian Cimreut
of the Val-de-Bt'iit'dictioi) . which now forms practically oue of the
quarters of the town. The Parish Church (also 14th cent.) contains
some paintings by Avignon artists and others. The Huspice-Hu-
]>itnl possesses the very remarkable tomb of Innocent VI.. and
39'2 V. Route 58. PONT DU GARD. Front Lyons
a small Museum (open daily 12 to 4 or 6; small gratuity) coritain-
iiig a Holy Trinity, attributed to King Rene, and several paintings
by Avignon artists, etc.
The train passes through a short tunnel to (lAo M.) Fonf-d' Avi-
ffHon. Omnibus to Avignon (p. 414). - Beyond (153 M.) Aramon the
line quits the Rhone and enters the valley of the Gard. — 156 M.
The'ziers.
161 M. Renwulins (Buffet; Hotel duNord). ThePontduGard lies
about 2 M. to the W. (see below), and is reached by crossing the
suspension-bridge (5 c.) , and then turning to the right, by the road
to Lafoux (see below). Carriage for l-3pers. , 4 fr. there and back.
The **Pont du Gard, spanning the Gtiid or Gardon at a bend
of the valley (cafe-restaurant), is one of the most imposing monu-
ments of the Romans which remain to us. It forms part of an
aqueduct, 25'/2 M. long . built to convey to Nimes the water of two
springs in the neighbourhood of U/.es. and ascribed to Agrippa, son-
in-law of Augustus (B. C. 19). The bridge is about 880 ft. long and
160 ft. high, and is composed of three tiers of arches, each less wide
than the one below. The two flrst tiers consist respectively of 6 and
11 arches of equal span, the third of 35 smaller arches. The wholfl
is admirably constructed of large stones, and no cement has been
used except for the canal on the top. We ascend to the top by th«
hill-side on the left bank, and cross the structure in order to realize
its dimensions. The bridge which is carried along the first tier of
arches on the E. side dates from 1745. On the other side, about
1 M. to the right, is the station of Pont-du-Gard (see below).
From Rbmoui,iks to St. Jvi.ien-de-C'\ssagnas via U/.ii.s, 36 M., railway
in 2-31/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 90 c). — 3 M. Pont-du-Gard,
about 1 M. to the N.E. of the. l.ridge. — 12Va M. TTzes (Ildtel BMiard), an
ancient town ('Ucetia') of 5146 inliab., picturesquely situated 3/4 3f- from
tlie station. Its special objects ot interest are the Duche, or ducal palace,
•lating from the lltli, 13th, 14tl] and lUth cents., and the Campanile or
Tour Fhiestrelle (l'2th cent.), a magnificent Komanesque relic of the ca-
thedral, which wa.*; destroyed in 1611, when the bishop and his chapter
were converted to Prt)testantisni. Uzes contains also a bron/.e statue, by
Unrni^Ki Rear-Adiniral Brueijs, killed at the battle of Aboukir (1798). Itranch.
line to Xozieres, see p. 395. — 23i/.> M. Enrel, has a small Bath Establish-
ment. — .\t (301/., M.) CHas we cross the Alais and Rhone line (p. 395)-
— 36 AI. St. Julien-de-Cas$agnas, see p. 395.
From Remoulins to Tarascon , 13 M., railway in 1 hr. via fl2i/2 M.)
Jleaiicaire (p. 389). ~ Taraseon, p. 419.
Beyond Remoulins we cross the Gardon. 161 M. Lnfoii.r (Poste),
about 1^/4 M. from the Pont du Gard. reached by turning to the left
from tlie station and passing under the line.
164 M. Ltdenon: 166"2 M. ^f. Gervasy-Bezovce ; 169 M. Mnr-
fi>ifrif/rs. We Join tlie Taraseon line (p. 389). (171 M.) Gre'znn.
173 M. Mmrs (p. 395^.
c. Vi& Le Teil and Alais. Vals.
"" 188 Jl. Kaii-ww in 101/4- 12 hrs. No thrcmgh trains (fares 37 fr. 65,
28 fr. 25. 20 ir. 75 c.). — To VaU, 60 M. , in 6-8V4lir8. (fares 24 fr. .35,
18 fr. 25. 13 tr. a)c.).
fo Nintes. VALS-LKS-HAINS. V. Rontf, 5S. ?,9'^
To (95' 2 M) l^'' T^il , '^ee p. 391. Wf Icavft to the loft tin-
line on the right bank of the Rhone, iiml turn to the N.W. towitrds
the volcanit: mouiitiiins of the Vivnrnis. The line rapidly ascends and
beyond a tnnnel more than ' ., M. lonf; reaches (101 M.) Ai(big)ins-
Aps. Aps, 1 M. to the S. . is the ancient Alba Helviornm, the
capital of the Helvii. To the left are the ruins of its massive medi-
eval castlf. — 105 M. St. Jean-le-Centenier. To Privas via
Montbrul sec ]>. ;590. We descend into a beantifnl valley. —
108'., .M. Villevnne-th.-Derii. :i little town V'tU. to the S.W.
(dili;ience). the birthplace of Olivier de Serres (1539-1619), the ce-
lebrated acriciiltiirist. who introduced into France the cultivation
of the mulberry. We traverse a viaduct over the Anzon . and leavH
the Vai< line to our right. - 113''.2 M. Votjut-Vals (Buffet, poori.
about 1 M. to the N. of the villap;e of Vofftif. on the right bank of
the Ardeche, with a ruined castle which belonged to the Vogue family.
From Vouuk to Vm.s Asn Nibu;i,rs-Pkadbs, 11 M. This branch-line
crosses (irst the AK^mi and tlien the ArilMie. To the right is the village
of Vogiie. From (31/-.. 31.) .S7. Sernin a line is to he constrncted to Lar-
ijentih'ey whither at present omnibuses run from the station of Ruoms (see
below). — We eross two valleys by viaducts.
6 M. Aubenas (Iloiel ilu .Vord), "a town of 8112 inhab., situated on a
hill, "ith a castle of the 13th and 16lh cent., carries on a large silk
trade. The church (iiartly loth cent.) contains the tomb of the JIarechal
d'Ornano ( 1.581-162(1). favourite of Gaston d'Orlean.s, brother of Louis XIII. ;
and in the town is a statue of Olivier de Serres (see above), by Bailly.
— To Privas, bv Vesseau.\, see p. 30O.
91/.2 JI. Vals-lef/laiim-laBrgude, about 1 M. to the S. ofVals, to which
omnibuses {30 c.) ply via a suspension - bridge and a road on the right
bank of the Volaiie.
Vals-Iet-Bains. IIotkls. iJ rand- Hotel des Bains, de Lyon, de I'arif,
de la Faioriln, .oi Ihe left bank, near the liath Kstab.; Cr.-lKt. Robert, dii
hotivie, I'nxte (1!. 11/^,, I>. 3 fr.), de V Europe , Oiivand , des Colonies, dii
Sord (railway -ouinibus). Juliette, in the town. — Numerous Furnished
Rooms. — Cafes: dii Casino : de I' ICurope. llaths 2-3 fr. : douches '^^f^-^U-.
Casino, adm. 1 fr.. jier week G. per nionlli 12 fr. — Vals - les - Bains is a
town of .3910 inhali.. iirettily situated on Ihe Volane . in tlie midst of
volcanic mountains alVorrling tine e.xcursions. It is cliielly celebrated
for its cold mineral springs, similar to those of Vicliy ()>. 2(51), and elli-
cacious in cases of all'ections of the digestive organs and liver, gravel,
and gout. The springs, though not copious, are ntunerous, and new ones
are frequently tapped. The Madeleine spring is among tlie most richly im-
pregnated with bicarbonate of soda. The *fiource Firmin is intermittent,
sending up a ,iet once in 3 hrs. for 5 min. at a time (see the notices) to
the heTght of 20-25 ft. Vals has a line Park, with the large unfinished
Casino Laforfst. An interesting e.vcursion may be made a little farther
up the Volane vallev, where the torrent tlows between magnificent ba-
saltic coliunns. to (ii/o M.) Antraigues (Inn), whence an ascent may lie
made to the S.W., to the (1 hr.) Coupe d'Aiiac (2670 ft.), the crater of one
of the volcanoes which formed the basaltic causeways of the Vivarais. The
valley is also very interesting beyond Antraigues (to Mezilhac, see p. 390).
The railway contin\ies to ascend the the valley of the .Vrdeche. -
12 M. Sieigles- i'rades , two villages in an interesting geological district,
with coal-mines. About 6 M. to the W., in tlie valley, are the bath.s (if
Xeyrac (Hotel Lacoste), with warm mineral springs. — About U/4 M. far-
ther is Thtteyts , built upon columnar basalt and near the 'Pave des
Gfants, the finest tiasaltic causeway in the Vivarais. The latter skirts
a stream flowing to the E., below a bridge of two stories, called the Poni
dii IHahle or La fluenle d'Kn/er, where there is a waterfall more Iban
aW4 v. Routt 5S. 15ESbi:GES. From Lyons
3(K) ft. high, especially beautiful in spring. The Pave is 250 ft. in height,
at the Escalier du Rot, the e.X:tremity on the left bank of the Ardeehe, by
which we return to the town. A footpath lead.s to the ^. , to the left
of the Gravenne (2770 ft.), an extinct volcano commanding a tine view, to
(I1/2 l»r.) Montpezat-sous-Bauzon (Hotel' du Nord), a town in the valley of
tlie Pourseilles, wliich is also interesting.
Beyond Vojjiie the Jiiic to Alats descends the valley of the Ar-
deehe. — 117 M. Balazuc. — 121 M. Ruoms has remains of its old
fortifications, opposite the station.
A diligence plies lience to Largentiere (1 fr. 30 c.J and Valgorge
(3 fr. 25 c), to the X.W. The road crosses the Ardeehe, passes through
the curious Defile of liuoms, and ascends the Valley of the Ligne.
81/2 M. Largentiere (Hotels), an ill-built but picturesquely situated town
\\illi 2697 inhali.. take.s its uanie from its old silver-mines. If contains a
liretty church and u well-preserved old castle. A railway is to be built
hence to join the Vals line (see above). — The road proceeds to the W. via
(13 JI.) Rocles (Inn) to (20 M.) Valgorge (Inn), a straggling village in the
valley of the Baume. To the N. rises the Tauargue (WSOft.), a ramifi-
cation of the Cevenues terminating in a plateaii, whose E. extremity, the
Grand - Tanargue (4723 ft.), commands a fine view, extending as far as
-Mont Blanc. An interesting excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to the
■Signal de Coucoulude (^A150 (t.), to the W., returning via the Grand-Tanar-
gue. —A road connects Valgorge with the La Bastide station (24 31. : p. 375).
,V diligence also plies from Ruoms to Vallon (Hot. L<iuriou), a little
town to the S.E. (51/2 M. : 75 c.), about 1/2 ^W. from the left bank of the
Ardeehe. The valley of this river is also very intcj-esting down-stream,
where it is bordered by picturesque rocks, with numerous grottoes. The
ilescent may be made bv boat (7 hrs.; 30 fr. from Vallon to HI. ilartin-
d-Ardiche, 51/2 31. to the \V. of Pont-St. Esprit, p. 391). About 1 hr. from
Vallon is the Pont d'Arc, an arch 215 ft. high and 190 ft. wide, hollowed
• nil in the rock by the waters. It is most conveniently reached by boat.
Beyond Itiioms we cross tlie Ardeehe. whicli turns to the left,
;iiiil then quitting this river, we ascend for a time the valley of the
(')uissesac, one of its affluents. - 125 M. Gruspierre:'. — 1291/9 M.
Ilt'dulieu-Berrins. — 135 M. St. Paul-le-Jeiine.
\ diligence (1 fr.) plies hence to (7 M.) Zes Vans (Hotel), an old
ihipugh small town, to the N., witli some remains of ramparts. From
I.es Vans or from St. Paul, a visit (with guide) may be made to the 'Bois
de Paiolive, situated hetween tlie two ])laces. This contains rocks of ex-
ceedingly picturesque and wild appearance, several of which resemble
ruins, while some are said to be the remains of caverns, formerly in-
habited. The most remarkable point is the Boi.i de Gagniet, which should
not be visited without a guide. The visit requires fully half a day. The
Bois de Paiolive is, however, now qiiife eclipsed by Montpellier-le-
Vieux (p. 388).
Beyond a tunnel, more than '/z ^^- 'ong, we reach (ISS'/g M.)
(f'(,(/»/f<TiS, near which are coal-mines. We cross the Gaf/nlires and,
licyoud a tunnel, the Crze. To the left is the ruined Chi'iteau df
Cns/iUoii. 140 M. Riibiar (41G5 inhab.), with a mined castle.
Branch-lines run hence to (2 31.) La Valeite, and to (31/2 31.) Sessiges
(Hotel du Cominerrt), a town with 10,6.53 inhab., on tlie Ce/.e, the centre of
an important coal-(iel<l , remarkable for the quantity and size of the
vegetable fossils founrl in the mines, even at a depth of over GOO ft.
Tho liiie now turns to the S.K. into the Ceze valley, which is in
parts liighly pict\irt'sqne. On a hill to the right is the Chateau de
Montidet. 142 .M. Molihca-sur-Che, with 2734 inhabitants.
140 ,M. St. Ambroix {Hotel dn Luxemhoury) , a picturesque
to Mme.-. ALAIS. V. Route 5S. oOa
iiiamil'actiiriii^ town (3433 inhab.), with a ruined castle and an an-
cient tower. Wc now quit the valley. 149 M. St. Julien-de-Cn^-
■<(i(in(iti. Line to U/.es. Uemoulins, and Tarascon. see p. 392.
A branch-line runs hence to tlie N.W. to (IM.) /,« J/ac/met, in conntc-
liim witli coal, iron, and antimony mines. — About .3M. to S. E. uf St.
.liilien is Lea Fumades (Hotel) ^ wiili bitumimois and ntlier cmUI mineral
waters, used lor skin and chest diseases. Roman antiquities have been
I'oiind near the si)ring.s. Among the attractive wallcs in the neigh))ourhood
is ihat to the K. to the Defile of the Argentole , a little river descending
Irom the well - wooded and rucky amphitheatre of the Serve du Bouquet
(2070 ft.). The latter includes many interesting spots, besides some ruins,
and the pilgrim-resort of the Otiiilon (lit Bouquet, Si/o hrs. from Les Fumades.
To tlieK., the Serre has almost perpendicular cliffs, 820 to 980 feet high.
We may descend on the S.E. to the station of (1 hr.) Brouzet (see below),
anil thence reach .Vlais by rail.
I'.eyond (152 M.) Salindreti we join the Clermont line (j>. 376i.
I58M. Alais (Buffet; Hotel du Lt(.rembourg), to the right, a town
of 22,514 inhab., on the left bank ol'theGardou. It i.s the centre of an
important coal-field, and carries on an (extensive trade in silk, glass,
bricks and tiles, etc. The 18th cent, cathedral includes some remaiji^
of tiie 12th century. A statue has lately been erected to the celebrated
chemist J. B. Dumas (1800-1884). a native of the town.
From Ai.ais to L'Akdotse, 3oM., railway in 21/4 hrs. (.fares 7 fr., .5 fr.
2.5. .Tfr. 85c.). The trains start from a special station to the K. of the
town, V-'M. from the principal station. Bevond f3V-jM.) Mejannes - Mnns
we pass "the Uzes line (p. 392). 51/:; M. eUas-Servas; 8I/2 M. Brontet. To
the left is the Heire (In Bouquet (see above), where the line enters a defile.
Iiollowed out by the Alauzene. — 12Vj M. Sepnes. — 35 M. LWrdoife (p. 391).
Kkom .\i,ais to QcissAc (Le Viyan), 191/2 M. This branch-line diverges
from the Nimes line at Ma.t-def-Ganlief (see below), and enters the valley
iif the (iardon d'Anduze. — From (10V->M.) Lezaa a branch-line nins to
(3V-.>3I.) AnUiize, an old town with 406iJinhabitants. — lO'/.iM. QiiisM,',
etc.. see p. 400.
IGIM. St.IJUaire; 164',. 2 M. Mas-de-i-Gardie.-!. Hranch-linc to
•^uissac. see above. — IGG'^M. Ve'zenobre.t ; 167 M. Sers. To the
right is a 12th cent. keep. 170 M. Boucoinui; 171 '/.^M. Sozih-es.
Branch-line to Uzes (p. 392). 173 M. .S7. Genih; 177 M. Fons : 182 M.
MuH-de-Ponye. Farther on, to the risht, is the Tour .Magne ip.398i,
on a hill beneath which Ave pass by means of a tunnel. Our line joins
those via Tarascon and. via Le Teil (UK. 58a , 59 b) . and the train
backs into the station. — 189 M. yimes (Buffet).
59. Nimes and its Environs.
Hotels. 'HoiKi, 01; Lc.KKMiiucitii (I'l. a; K,4). on llie Ksplaiiade , U.
from 3, dej. 4. P. 5 fr. ; H. mi Midi (PI. b: K.3), Square de la Couronne;
JUxivEi (PI. c; C,3), lioulevard de la Madeleine, near the Jlaisioi-Carree,
K.2, ]).2l/-fr.; *CHBVAL-i{i..\5.u (PI. d; U,4), Place des Arenes. U. 21 ..,,
de.i. or r). Sir.: Die i.'Univkus (PI. a: I). 4), Place des Arenes.
Caf^s, chiefly near the Maison-C'arree and in (he Esplanade.
Gabs. Two pers., per drive in the town 00c. . in the "Hauts t^iuartier.s'
ll'r. : per hr. U/.., fr. ; 4 pers.. 80c.. IVj, and 2 fr. Double fare between
Miidni'Jilit and (i ur 7 a.m. To the Tour .Magne and back. 3 and 4 fr.
Tramway from tlif station to the boulevards, etc.; comp. the plan.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E,3), ."Square ile la Couronne.
:19() v. Route 59. NfMES. Amphitheatre.
Protestant Churches. Grand Temjile (PI. E. 3). Place du Grand Temple ;
Fetit Temple (PI. C, 2), Rue desFlottes.
Baths. Etabliuement Bhard (P1.F,3). Rue Notre-Dame 36; Bains (hi
r.ouvre. Rue Monjardin, to the E. of the Esplanade.
Shnes. a town of 69,900 inhab.. is the capital of the department
of the Gard and the seat of a bishopric and of a Calvini.stic consistor\.
It lies at the S. extremity of a chain of hills joining the Ce'vennes,
-and is much exposed to wind and dust. The older parts of the city
are badly built, but it has fine boulevards and modem quarters, and
it contains more monuments of antiquity than any other town in
I'rance. Mmesisalsoa very important manufacturing centre, espe-
cially for silk-goods, and carries on a large trade in wine and spirits.
.Vemausitf, (lie capital of (he Volcae Arecomici , submitted to the
Komans in B. C. 121 and became one of their principal colonies in Oaul.
They took a delight in embellishing it. and it had its capitol, temples to
.\ugustus and Apollo, a basilica, theatre, circus, amphitheatre, thermae,
an aqueduct, of which the famous Pont du Gard (p. .392) is a relic, an
extensive line of ramparts, a forvnn, a Campus Martin.*, etc. It was pillaged
by the Vandals in 407, and for some time it belonged to the Visigotli.s,
then to the .Saracens, and afterwards to the Counts of Toulouse. Three-
fourths of its inhabitants having embraced Protestantism, it suft'ered ranch
during the Wars of Religion, until 1704. or the end of the Ce'vennes
(Camisard) insurrection, provoked by tlie Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes (1685) and the rigours whicli followed. The political passion.'*
of its people were not less earnest than their religious convictions, and
the reaction of 1815 was carried farther at Nimes than at Toulouse (p. 72),
Avignon (p. 414). or Marseilles (p. 431); and for foui' months the town was
at the mercy of banditti who committed every kiml of excess and atrocity
against the Protestants. — Nimes is the birthplace kii Nicot, who intro-
duced tobacco into France in 1564. of J. Saurin (1677-1730), the Prote.stant
minister, of Guizot (1787-1874), of the poet Reboul (1796-1864), etc.
From the station (Pl.E. 5). we enter the town by the magnificent
Avenue Feuchtres, whicli leads to the Egplanade (PI. D. 4). a flmr
square to the left of which is the amphitheatre (see below). In the
middle of this square is a monumental Founfnin, embellished with
five statues by Pradier. representing the Town of Nimes (on the
top) , and at the corners, the Rhone, the Gard. the Fontaine de Ninics
(see below), and the Fontaine d'Eure. the latter one of those which
fed the ancient aqueduct. - Behind the fountain is the Palais df
Justice (PI. D. 4). a modern building with a fine t'orinthian colon-
nade. — To the N.E. is the modern Gothic Chmcli of Ste. Perpe'tite
(PI. E. 4). after Feucheres's plans. The curious arches of the nave
spring from clusters of four small columns supported by pillars.
The ancient "^Amphitheatre (Les Arenes: PI. C. D, 4) form an
ellipse 146 yds. long by 111 yds. wide, and 70 ft. in height. It is
therefore smaller than those of Rome (Colosseum, 205yils.by 170 yds..
aiul 156 ft. high). Captia (185 by 1.52 yds.). Verona (168 by 134 yds.),
and even .\rles (15!-} by 1 12 yds. : p. 420). but its exterior is in better
preservation than that of any of these.
It is constructed of stones 6-10 ft. cube, perfectly adjusted without
mortar, like all Roman buildings of a large size. The exterior presents
t\:(i stories, each of 60 arches, the lower having huge sq»iare buttres3e.s,
the upper Doric column.';, while above is an attic story with 120 projecting
stones pierced with boles, in wliicli (be masts oftlie awning which covered
!v*i^^'^'«il mill" - ,t)
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AN'O^C-Ti DnbfNl.fipzJg
Mni.ioH-Cnnt'c NTMKS. \ . lioitle 59. :')97
tlif aiiii)liilheutre were inserted. — There were lour external gateways,
ill (he extremities of the axes: visitors enter by the one on the S.W.. the
iarllier side I'roui tlie Esplanade (gratuity). The solid mass of the building
is 1(15 ft. in thickne.ss. There were 3a rows of seats, divided into four tiers,
thr lirst intended for persons of rank, the second for knights, the third for
the plebeians, and the fourth forslaves While 24,000 spectators could be
aci'onnnodaled. 124 vomitories atVorded rapid egress to this multitude. The
tiers and passages were so constructed as to let the rain tlow otY into an
a(|ueilucl at the bottom, so as to be ready for use when the arena was
reipiired to lie inundated for sea-tights Or nuuniacbiae. Combats with wild
lii'HSts cannot have been held in this amphitheatre as ihe wall bounding
I he arena is too low. .\t the present day bull-lights still take place here, as
at .Vrles. Tlic construction of the anipliitheatre of Nimes dates from the
ls(-3nd cent, of our era. and it was also, like that of Aries, transformed
into a fortress in the Jliddle Ages. an<l afterwards occupied by hovels, of
which it was not rid till 1809.
The bouhivards to the N.W. lead hence to the Flaw tie la Co-
ineilii'. in whicli is the Maisoii-Carrei'. pas-^iii^. to the Iclt. the new
/.//r/c (PI. i'. !■)>. a large block of btiililiri'ts formerly iiseil as a
hospital.
Farther on the >ame side is St. I'. ml (PLC. i^. a modern Ko-
nianesiiue church, bnilt by Qnestel. If contains some fine frescoes
li\ Hippolyte and I'anI Flandrin.
The **Maison-Carr6e iT'l. ('.2. i>), one of the tlne»t and best pre-
served Koman tt'mi>les aii\ wliere extant, forms a parallelogram, 76 ft.
lonji. 40ft. wide, and 4() ft. hisli . with iiO Corinthian columns, 20
of which are attached to the walls of the cella. It is thns a psendo-
[icripteral temple, prostyle and i\exa>tylc. i. e. it has a portico on
the front only, consisting of six columns. It is approached by ir>
steps. The columns are fluted and ami .surmountetl by capitals of
admirable workmanship. The entablature is very riih. and of ex-
•juisite taste, like the rest. It has not been positively determine<l
to whom this temple was dedicated or at what period it was built.
It was at first held to date from the time of Augustus, but its style
seems rather to belons; to the time <d' the .Vntonines, i. e. to the 2nd
century. It was prcdiably situated in the forum, forminfr with other
buildings, the foundations of which have been discovered . the en-
closure of that important centre. Successively used as a church,
a municipal hall, a warehouse, and a stable, this mnunittcent build-
ing, well restored , is now occupied by a museum of ancient sculp-
tures and inscriptions.
The MusKB L\rii).MnK is open to the public on Sun. and Thurs. 9-.J,
and on other days also to strangers. Part of the collections is arranged
outside the temple. This chiefly consists of remains of antique monu-
ments, notably of a large pedin\enl of a basilica. On each side of the
entrance to the building is an antique •dolium". and inside are numerous
stelae and inscriptions, line tesselated pavements, a fine statue of Venus,
found in 1879 and put together from 103 fragments (left arm wanting), an-
ti(]ue vases and line glass; and a quantity of architectonic fraymenls, in-
cluding portions of friezes (above).
The Theatre (PI. C, 2. 3), on the other side of the boulevard^
is a poor modern building, serving as a foil to the beauty of the
.Maison-CaiTi-e. At the end of the boulevard is a square embellished
398 V. Route 5.9. n!mES. Cathedral.
with a marble Statue of Antoninus Pins (PLC, 2), by Rose (1874).
The father of the emperor was a native of Ntmes. — Then, to the
right, is the Boulevard Gambetta, one of a series of boulevards ex-
tending round the old town as far as the Esplanade. We turn to
the left, on this .side of a canal, and in 5 min. reach the Jardin de
la Fontaine (PI. B, 2), situated at the end of the long Boulevard de
la Kepublique. The garden (small caf^) is a line promenade, which
owes its name to the Fontaine de Ninies, a little farther on. The
garden is decorated in the 18th cent, taste, but is in part laid
out on ancient foundations. It contains, to the right, a Statue of
h'ehoxl (p. .396), by Bosc.
The so-called Temple of Diana (PI. A, 2), to the left of the
Fontaine, is small and was more probably a Nymphjeum connected
with the thermae, of which there are some remains close by. The
fagade still shows three arches, and the interior consists of a large
hall and two passages, the hall having a stone vault, partly fallen
in. and niches for statues. Sculptures and antiquities found on the
spot have been placed there , but beyond these there is little to see
(gratuity). The remains of buildings behind are supposed to belong
to the reservoir of the aqueduct, and may be seen from the road
which ascends the hill on the left. — Behind the Fontaine is .Vo/;/-
Cavalier (.375 ft.), with alleys affording pleasant promenades.
The Tour Magna (PI. B, 1), wliicli occupies the summit, is mm
imposing octagonal Roman ruin, being still 90 ft. high. It was pro-
bably a mausoleum, but it has passed for a public treasury, a beacon,
a signal tower, etc. It was included in the ramparts under the Ilo-
nians. A staircase affords access to the top , which commands an
admirable *View. The keeper lives in the red house, a little below
the tower.
We now return to St. Paul's Church in the centre of the town (p.;]97)
and follow one of the streets in frontof itto tlie Cathedral (.S<. Castor:
PI. D, 3). It is supposed to have been built on the ruins of a temple
dedicated to Augustus, but it has been rebuilt and restored several
times. The facade has a very curious frieze. The Interior, recently
restored, consists of a wide Romanesque nave, liavinp at the sides,
between the pillars, small chapels without windows, sucli as are
often seen in the churches in this district, and above, fine galleries,
which extend even round the choir. St. Castor is richly decorated
with modern paintings. The third chapel on the left has a fine Chris-
tian sarcophagus for its altar.
A little farther in the same direction are the Graud Temple
il'I.E, 3) and the Boulevard Amiral-Courbet. — Beyond the Temple
til theN., is another Roman monument, the Porte d' Auguste (VI. ¥j, 2),
a remnant of the fortifications, built B. C. 16, in the reign of Au-
gustus. It consists of two large and two small archways.
The church of St.Baudile{Pl.E,2), opposite the Porte dAuguste.
was built in 1870-1875. It is a fine Gothic cruciform edifice, with two
Fii-ture Gnlleni. NI.MKS. l. Il„vle 53. 39f>
towers at the W. end. The chancel terminate* in a straight wall con-
taining a fine window, and the entire, chnrch i# very richly decorated.
The Picture Gallery ( Mu!<i'e df Peinture) occupies a new builil-
inji on the site of the former Jardin de la Mandragore (Pl.D, 0). It
i- open to the public on Sun. and Tliurs.. 9-12, and 1-4 or 5.
Entrakce Hall. Sculptures by I'rculier, Lepere , /.eroux, fi-anceschi,
rW. Paintings. 225bi.s. lelioux, Martvrcloui iif St. Lawrence: 226bis. Schom.
(utr, Kdith iTniiiiig the Ixxly iif Harold after tlit- Dattb- «>!' Hastings: 118.
Vouet . St. Paul baptising. — Koior rn tjik iiight. S(. Adelahle fiallea-
Wagnrr, Legend of the Alyscanips: 165. A. Ca/'racci, .le.su.s and tbe Momau
(if Samaria: 72. A'atoire, St. -lobn the. Baptist; 172. Giortlann, Hape of De-
janeira; 77-79. R- Levien.r , Scenes from the HtV cif John the Bapti.st: 3i!.
C'ordorati, Sea-piece: 63. Laurenf, Storni-eli'ect-, 225. Ribera, St. Paul: 222.
Unknown Artist, Lucretia ISnrgia: 208. Besnard, Episode in an invasion in
the Middle Ages; 114. Vignaud of Niines. Jfercury teaching Anii)hion; 22.
i'abat. Hunt: 154. attributed to Rubens, Tniphv: 12. t'eriier , i)avid and
<T(iliath: 234. Colin nf Nimes. The Mare de Gueville; LSI. lirnnkortf. Por-
trait: 103. Watelet. Landscape: 101. De Troy, Punishment of Psyche ; 2lj.
Cnlin, Kranci.s I. visiting Nimes.
(1i;eat H.vll, to the left of tlie entrance. In the centre are two an-
tique Mofaicf , discovered near the market in 1883 and 1884. — 134. l'«»
Oijck, Children: '241. Rubens, Holy Family; 107. Jos. Vernet, Hather.'i: 150.
Rubens, Hunters resting; 243. llobbema. Landscape; 108. Vieii, Cnicili.xion ;
60. Largilliere , Marshal Villars; 44. Franck , .Josabeth saving .loasli:
'37. /'. Delaroihe, Cromwell opening the coftln of Charles L: »182. flaio.
r«<o. Virgin; 213. fie/v''^'"- Land.scape ; 135. Van Duck, Portrait of a French
marshal r 149. Rubens, Head of a girl; 14. Fr. Boucher, Landscape; 138.
l'«/t Dyck, Prince Kupert; 171. (luercino , Ueath (.f Dido: 100. De Troy,
Sleeping reaper; 226. ./. Steen, Sketch for the Guest-chamber in the paini-
ter's brewery', now at the Hague; 1?0. '/. I'oussin, Landscape; 129. Bloe-
mrn. Landscape: 147. Xetscher, Portrait of a Prince of Orange; 196. Joannes,
of Spain. Angel appearing to St. Francis; 34. J.-B. i'orneUle, Ste.Oenevieve
of Paris: 173. Maratta, .\,ssuniption (sketch): 74. /'. Parrocel, Immaculate
Conception; 145. Miererelt , Portrait of a magistrate; LanjiUiere, 62. Por-
trait of a magistrate. 61. Marshal Berwick; 214. Wotiverman, Horse-fair;
70. I'. Mifjnard , Portrait ot a magistrate: 81. Rigavd, JIarshal Turenne;
197. Rubens, Spanish monk; 73. yatoire, Iian(|uet of Antonv and Cleopatra;
66. ("A. Lejevre, Fall of Satan; 216. J. ie Oiicq , the VVatch: 177. Tin-
toretto. 3Iartyrdoni of St. Agnes; 186. \'<anx. Vision of St. Francis: 218.
Garofalo. Madonna and Child: 219. N. Poiusin, .lesus and the Woman of
Samaria: 175. Guido . St. Magdalen: 178. Salv. Ilosa , Landscape: 169.
O. I'oussin, Land.scape : 161. M^eenix, Start for the hunt : • 176. (luiiloReni, iuiWxU:
183. Titian, Virgin and Child between SS. Dominic and Catharine: 187.
Domenichino, St. Matthew; 23. Catlet, Condemnation of Sejanus; 67. C. Van-
loo, The artist's mother; 89. Sigulon, Locusta te.sting a poison; 68. Lefcvrf,
Portrait of the artist; 82. Rigaud, Portrait of Ch.'de Parvillez; 212. Ru-
bens (?». 144. Mierevelt, Ptirtraits; 1.59. Weenix , Poultry: 185. Titian, Por-
trait of the artist (?); 15. Boucher, Training of a dog': 209. Correggin (V),
Christ in (iethsemane: 136. Van Dyck, Portrait of a magistrate: 94. .Smith,
Athaliah's dream: 174. Calabrese (I'reti) , .lesu.s among the doctors: 104.
Verdier , Man between two ages; 105. Jos. Vernet, Sea-piece: Brascassat,
2ot). Koman Campagna, 251. Cow; Schut , 157. Hanks of the Rhine, l-V*.
Landscape; 155. Jac. Ruysdael, Landscape: 242. Rubens, Holy Family.
The Adjoining Rooms contain over 400 uncatalogued paintings (many
copies), chielly of Ihe F'lemi.sh and Dutch schools, bequeathed to the town
by an Englishman named Gower. These include [lortraits by Rembrandt
or in his style, a portrait by Holbein, landscapes by F- Fotter , Berghem,
Ruysdael, Van de Velde, llobbema, and Claude Lorrain ; two paintings by
Van Ostade; an old man by Rubens, etc.
The Salle de CnAZELLEs-CHVscLAK, at the other end of the main room,
to the right, contains a valuable collection i>{ lingravings, three handsome
400 y. Route 59. nImKS. Ercurtionf.
Sevres v»$es, six autographs of Voltaire, and "28 volumes, remarkable lor
tlieir importance, scarcity, or biuding. — The Sali.e Pelet contains cork
models of the monuments of Southern France, by PeUt: etc.
The Ftue P.ourdaloue. on the N. of the .Mtisee. leads to the W. to
a »inall square, to the right of which, behinrl the Hotel-Dieu. is the
I'nfte de France (PI. C. 4). a relic of the Roman enceinte. It is a
>iMgle arch. The Rue de MontpelliiT. l>i?fore the Porte, to the right,
leaiis back to the .\mphitheatre.
The excursion to the Pnnt dii Hard (p. 3921 is more eon%-enienlly made
b\ railway than bv carriage (131 .,H.). — From Ximes to Arltt and to
MarfeiUet,' set pp. '389. 419-425; u<' MoHtpellier and to OWr, .tf-e R. 60.
Feoji Nimes to AiuiEs -Mortei. 25 1£.. railway in II/4-I3 4hr. (fares
4fr. 93. 3fr. 65. 2fr. 65 c.). We lollow the Montpellier line as far a« St.
<Vj<it>? (p. 401). —131^51. la«rer?, a ton n ..f 4(X)0 inhabitants. ISi/^ M.
I.e CaiUtr, also on the line In.ni Aries to Uinel (p. \23). 16> -. M. Ai-
iitoigiiei. 2>1M. •St. La>irent- d' Aignnze beyond which. 011 the left, appears
!hf ISthcent. Tour Carbonnirre.
25 M. Aigue* - Kortet (Iliilel /-'atiit). a town of 3900 inhab. . situated
near a number of ponds and marshes, and on four navigable canals,
i-onnecting it with the sea (3i •_. M.». the Rhone (Beaucaire). and the salt
lagoons. The chief of these ponds, to which the town owe.s its ominous
uame. is the Eiang de la Villt ei dn fioi. Aigues-JIortes i» essentially a
town of the past, and has been so ever since the silting up of its har-
bour: but precisely for this reason it is one m' the most interesting to
visit. It was founded in 1246 by St. Louis, who t-nibarked here for his
luo crusades in 1248 and 1270. His son. Philip the Bold, began in 1272
to surround it with ''Fortifications u hich are now among the chief
curiosities of France. These are superior even ti> thr fortifications of
<'arcassonne (p. 8U) and .Avignon (p. 4141. inasmuch as they are uniform
in style, date from one single epoch, and are in perfect preservation,
but they are inferior in being placed on level gniund instead of on a
conspicuous hill. The works form a rectangle. 6(i) yds. long by 130 yds.
broad, with embattled walls. 25-33 ft. high. 2f) lowers, some square and
others round, and legates. The only alterations have been the adapta-
tion of the embrasures to lire-aruis and the tilling up of the moat. .\t
thf X.W. angle is a sort of citadel, with the Trtur de Conftance. begun
by St. Louis. Together, with the watch-turret surmounting it. this tower
i.< nO-93 ft. high by 65-70 ft. in diameter, ami its walls are 17-lS tt. thick.
It served as a prison for many Pn:ite>iauts after the Revocation of the
Kdict of Nantes. The Tour ./«.« BoHrgiiignont , t.) the S.VV. . .served as a
tomb for the Burgundians whi>. alter capturing the town in 1421 . were
massacred by the royal troop> and thrown into this tower, their bodies
being covered with heaps of salt. — The town itself is almost void, if interest.
It is built on a regular plan, ivith broad streets, but it has a deserted
appearance, being large enoiigh fi>r twicr its present population. The
maritime trade is slight. In the public square is a Statue of St. Loui.'.
in bninze. by Pradier. The neighbourhood is interesting, and is planted
with vineyards, which can be placed under water by means of fire-
|oinips. On the coast is Orau dn Roi, a much frequented watering-place.
Feom NiME* TO Le ViGAS (Aigoval). 571 ^, M. . railway in H3 4-4i'4hrs.
(fares 11 fr. 50. S Ir. 5:5. 6 fr. 30 c.». We follow the Montpellier line f.
(2t/.. M.) St. CfMire { p. 401). theu traverse the fertile plain of the VauKOge.-
I8M' .S<>mim>r<jr(363t>inhab.l. with two castles, one in ruins. — 31JI. yuiwoc.
Branch-line to .Mais, see p. 395. ;i4 M. Saute, a small industrial town,
manufacturing hosiery, pitchforks, and handles for tools. — 39' j M. .S<. Hippo-
Ifle-dii-Fort, with 4079 inhabitants. -- 471 ., H. Gunge* (Crotjr-Bianfhej. with
4369 inhab.. about 1 ... M. to thf S.W near the left bank of the Herault.
is an important centre of the silk and cotton industries. — .\bout 21 ;-3M
to the S.E. is the large and beautiful GroUe det Doumiiellet or det Ffes,
with magnificent .stalactites, and containing a lofly chamber, the roof of
which cannot be seen even with the help of torches. The visit to th^
WONJTPiLLIJEil
, , I :i3,ooo
MONTPELLIER. V. Route 60. 401
grotto is diflicult, especially for ladies, and expensive for single travellers,
as 5 fr. is paid tor admission and at least 40 fr. must be expended on
torches, Kengal lights, etc. — Excursions from Ganges may be made, to
the S.W., to the gorges of the Vis and the platea\i of the iaceac (pp. 379, 382),
and to tlie N. to the Valleys of Siimene (see below) and the Herault..
51 M. Sitmtne (Kosel is another small manufacturing town. At (5451.)
Poni-d'IJn-auU we cro;-s the lUraiill, here of little importance.
571/0 31. Le Vigan (Cheial-Vert), a town of 5353 inhab., on the Arre,
in a picturesque district, has hosiery and silk factories, and coal mines.
The old ftnihic Bridge and a bronze Statue of the Chevalier d'Assas (d. 1760)
are noteworthy. — About 11/4 31. to the S.W., on the Blillau road (p. 379),
is the village of Aveze, a picturesque summer-resort, and near it are the
Bains de Cauvalat.
An interesting excursion may be made to the N. to the Aigoual in
51 /o-6hrs. The road leads via Pont-d'Herault (see above: 1/4 hr. by rail),
(2hrs.) Valleraiigite, a little town on the He'rault, at the foot of the Aigoual,
and (2 hrs.) [La Sereyride, a pass whence the ascent may be made in
about 11/2 hr. . to the E.N.E. , then to the E. to the top." The Aigoual
or Signal de la Uort-Dieu (5140 It.) is the principal summit of the Cevennes
on this side of Mont-Lozere (p.37G), and therefore affords a very line pano-
rama, comprising the S. part of this chain, the Rhone valley, Mont-Ven-
toux, and the Maritime Alps to the E. , and the Mediterranean, Eastern
Pyrenees, and plains of Languedoc to the W. An observatory has been
bnilt on the summit. We may descend to Meyrueis (p. 387) in 21/2 hrs.
60. From Ninies to Montpellier and Cette.
(Toulouse. The Pyrenees.)
481 /-.M. To (31 M.) Montpellier, railwav in 1-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 15,
4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 40 c). — From Montpellier to (17i7., M.) Cette, railwav in 3, 4-I hr.
(fares 3fr. 45, 2 fr. 60, Ifr. 85c.).
iSiiiies, see p. 395. 21/2 M. St. Cesaire. Line to Aigues-Mortes,
see p. 400. Several small stations are passed. Beyond (13 M.) Gal-
hugues (line to Le Vigan. see below) we cross the yidourle.
IG'/jM. Lunel (Buffet; Hotel du Palais-Royal), a town of 6667
inhab.. t'ornierly celebrated for its muscatel wines, of which, however,
it now produces but a small quantity, its vines having been in great
part destroyed by the phylloxera.
A branch-line runs hence to (d^/.t'M.) Soinmih-es \ii Gallargues, on the
line from Nimes (see above) , and thence via the valley of the Vidoiirle,
a river generally of small volume but subject to sudden and extraordinan-
freshets. — 6M. Aitbais , with a tine ruined chateau. 91/2 M. Sommiires,
and thence to Le Vigan, see above.
Railway from Lunel to Aries, with branch to Aigues-Mortes, see p. 423.
18'/2M. Lunel-Viel. Several other small stations. 271/2 M. Les
Mazes- le-Cres. We pass into (31 M.) Muiitpellier in front of the
litadel (on our left) and under the Palavas line (p. 406).
Montpellier. — Railway stations. Gare de Faris-Lyon (PI. D, 5), the
principal, for Nimes. Paris, Marseilles, Cette, Perpignan, Bordeaux, Rodez,
etc. : de Palavas (PI. D, 4), for the Palavas line (p. lOB) : de Rabieux (PI. A, 5),
for the line to Be'ziers via Meze (p. 86).
Hotels. Nevet (Pl.d: D, 4) , Boulevard de I'Esplanade . R. 21 o. dej.
31/21 D- 41/2 fr.: Magveloke (PI. b; D, 5), Rue Maguelone, near the Paris
Lyons station; Du Midi (Pl.c; C,5), Boulevard de la Comedie, a little
farther on; de la Gare (PI. e; D, 5), to the left of the station; etc.
Cafis in the Rue Maguelone, Place de la Comedie, Boulevard de
I'Esplanade, etc. — Brasserie Lyonnaise, Boul. de I'Esplanade.
Baedeker. Southern France. ■'6
402 V. Route 60. MONTPELLIER. Peyrou.
Cabs, with one horse, per drive 75 c, per hr. li/o fr., I1/2 fr. and 21/2 fr.
at night: with two horses 1 and 2, or 3 and 4fr.
Post and Telegraph Office, Place de la Prefecture (PI. C, 3).
Military Bands, daily on the Peyrou (see below) at 8, 4, or 2 p. m.,
according to the season: on the Esplanade (p. M)&') at 8.30 p. m. from June
15th to Sept. 15th., at other seasons 3 p. m.
Protestant Churches. Cours GambettalS, and Rue Maguelone, near the
Paris-Lyons station.
Montpellier, a town of 56,765 inhab.. the capital of the depart-
ment of the He'rault and headquarters of the 16th army corps, is
situated on a hill commanding a fine view , with the Lez flowing
below. It is a clean and cheerful town , and its older quarters are
fairly well-built.
The foundation of the town was not earlier than 737 or the destruction
of Maguelone (p. 406) by Charles -Martel. and its prosperity dates only
from the 12th cent., when its still celebrated school of medicine was
founded. The see of kaguelone was transferred to Montpellier in 1536. A
stronghold of Calvinism, Louis XIII. besieged and took it in 1622. It
soon regained its former prosperity; but its commercial importance has
not kept pace with that of the large neighbouring towns. It possesses
a university academy. Montpellier was the birthplace of Auguste Comte,
the philosopher (179S-1857).
Immediately outside the Gare de Paris -Lyon is a square, to the
right of which is the handsome Rue Maguelone. leading to the Place
de la Come'die (PI. C, D. 4). adorned with the graceful Fontaine
des Trois-Grdces, by D'Antoine (1776). To the left is the *Tlieatre
(PI. C , 4) , rebuilt in 1883 after a fire , and to the right extends the
Esplanade with the Musee (p. 403).
Starting from the Place de la Com^die the boulevards make the
circuit of the old town , those to the left ascending to the Peyrou.
As the end of the first, the Boulevard Victor-Hugo, to the right, is
the Tour de la Babotfe, dating from the fortification of the 12th cent,
and afterwards used as an observatory. The adjoining Boulevard de
rObservatoire ends in a little square, containing a statue . by Vital
Dubray, of Ed. Adam (1768-1807). who introduced improvements
in the preparation of wine which have been of great importance for
for the South of France.
The *Peyrou (PI. A. B, 3, 4) . in the higher part of the town , is
a fine promenade dating chiefly from the 17-18th centuries. The
Porte du Peyrou on the right of the boulevard , a Doric triumphal
arch, 50 ft. high and 60 ft. wide, was erected in 1691. in honour of
Louis XIV., by D'Aviler. after D'Orbay. The bas-reliefs represent
the Victories of Louis XIV.. the Union of the Mediterranean with
the Atlantic by the Canal duMidi. and the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes. At the sides of the great railing of the Peyrou are two stone
groups : Love overcoming Strength and Strength vanquished by Love,
bylnjalbert. The promenade is embellished with a bronze Equestrian
Statue of Louis XIV., by Debay (1829), and other statues. At the
end is a monumental Chateau d'Eau, a hexagonal pavilion, with
a door on each face and Corinthian columns. It is supplied by an
Aqued^ict, constructed in 1753-1766 , which brings the water from
Cathedral. MONTPELLIER. V. Route 60. 403
a distance of about S'/a M. and terminates at the Peyrou in a double
tier of arches, more than 1/2 M. long and 70 ft. high.
The fine new Rue Rationale (PI. B. C, 3, 4) extends from th
Porte du Peyrou across the old town to the Prefecture (see below). Td
the left of the Porte is the Palais de Justice (PL B, 3). a handsome
modern building with a Corinthian peristyle, decorated with statues
of Cardinal Fleury (1653-1743 ; by J. Debay) and Cambac^res (1753-
1824; a copy), two famous natives of Languedoc.
A little below the Peyrou . to the left of the boulevard , is the
large and well-kept Jardin des Plantes (PI. B, 2, 3), the oldest in
France, established by Henri IV. in 1598 and organized by Richer
de Belleval (d. 1623). Many line exotics grow here in the open air.
On the other side of the boulevard, near the Jardin des Plantes,
are the Tour des Pins, a relic of the old fortifications, now contain-
ing the municipal archives, and the Faculty de M6decine (PL B. 3),
formerly the bishop's palace , adjoining the cathedral (see below).
At the entrance are statues of the celebrated physicians La Peyronie
(1678-1747) and Barthez (1734-1806). natives of Montpellier. The
school possesses an Anatomical Museum, a Library of 50.000 vols,
and 600 MSS.. and a Collection of Drawings (300). Visitors are
admitted to the library on Tues. and Frid. 1-3. The professor's
chair in the large amphitheatre comes from the Amphitheatre of
Nimes. The reception room contains an antique^bronze bust of Hippo-
crates, and in the council and adjoining rooms are portraits of pro-
fessors since 1239. Behind theFacuIte is a new chemical laboratory.
Montpellier possesses also schools of law and pharmacy.
The Cathedral (PL B. 3), founded in the 14th cent., and partly
rebuilt after the Religious Wars, has been recently restored and en-
larged. The large and curious but somewhat unattractive porch on
the W. front, has a very high arch supported in front by round turrets.
13 ft. in diameter. The facade has two additional towers, and there
are two at the transept, one of which was rebuilt in 1856. The hand-
some broad nave is flanked by side-chapels between the pillars, as
in the cathedral at Mmes; the fine choir is modern. In the 4th chapel
on the left is a marble statue of the Virgin, by Santarelli. a pupil
of Canova.
The street ascending to the left from the cathedral passes between
the Faculte' des Sciences and the Hotel de Ville (Pl.B. C. 3). The
Fontaine des Licornes , by D'Antoine, originally erected to the me-
mory of Castries, the victor at Clostercamp (1760). has been rebuilt
in the square in front of the Hotel de Ville. Farther on, we reach
the Rue Nationale. and turn to the left. On the same side is the
Prejecture (PL C,3), a fine building by B^sine (1870), standing in
a square embellished with the pretty Fontaine de la Ville, on which
is a statue by Journet. Close by. at the end of the Rue Nationale, is
the new Post and Telegraph Office.
The *Mu86e (PL D. 3). on the same side . near the Esplanade, is
26*
404 V. Route 60. MONTPELLIER. Musee.
generally known as the Mnse'e Fabre, from the name of its founder,
the painter Fr.-Xav. Fabre, of Montpellier (1766-1837), a pupil of
David, who spent 40 years in Italy. This museum, enriched by
large donations and legacies, is now one of the best provincial col-
lections in France, with upwards of 800 paintings. It is open to the
public on Sun., Mon., and holidays from 9-12 and 1-4. on Thurs.
9-11; and to strangers at other times also. We enter from the Rue
Montpelli^ret and ascend to the left.
EsTRAKCE Hall: from left to right, 505. V- Giraiid , The husband's
return; 354. P. Cabanel, of Montpellier, Hero finding the body of Leander:
(ill. Monvoisin, Death of Charles IX.; 585. Em. Levy, Judgment of Midas;
no number, Ehrmann, Paris challenging the nations to a contest in arts
and industries; 5n. Lazerges, St. Peter's denial; no number, L. Bernoud,
At the Louvre.
Cabinet between this hall and the following gallery: 832. Florentine
fichool of the 16th Cent., Kativity and Adoration of the Magi; no number,
J. Lauren.^, The Blue Mosque of Persia; Ant. Coypel, 390? .-Eneas at the
burning of Troy, 391. Death of Dido.
Principal Gallery: 11. Bassano , Judas and Thaniar; 76. Guercinn,
Head of a young man; 4. Allori, Madonna and Child: 831. Tintoretto, Por-
trait of a' senator: 136. Ziiccheri, Portrait of Margaret of Valois, fust
wife of Henri IV.; 147. Spagnoletto , Head of au apostle: 138. Bolognese
School, Head of a young ■\voman; 36. Ceaare da Sesio, The Saviour; 53. fra
Bartolommeo, Holy Family; *106. Raphael, Lorenzo de' Medici; 72. Gior-
dano, Holy Family; 104. Perugino, St. Christopher, a fresco transferred to
canvas; 843. Van der Wilt, Portrait; 5. Allori, Study for a Youthful David;
38. CigoU, Flight into Egypt: 105. P. da Coj-iowa," Women at a sacriftee;
17. Canaletto , Grand Canal at Venice: 14. Botticelli, Virgin and Child; 6.
Andrea del Sarto , The Virgin; 126. Schidone , Holy Family: 132. Titian,
Portrait of an old man; 825. jVjV. delV Abbate , Leda: 828. Correggio, Su-
sannah (?), a study: no number, Allori, Venus and Cupid: 45. C. Dolei,
St. -Anthony the Abbot; 86. II Giosepino, The Salution (on alabaster); 114.
Salimbeni, Head of the Virgin ; 133. Fr. Vanni, Infant Christ borne by angels ;
115. Salr. Ro.^a, Sea-piece; 81. Gnido Reni, Head of the Virgin: aS. Gaspard
/'oi/siiw (Dughetl, Landscape; 77. Guereino, Isaiah: 146. Spagnoleito, St. Mary
of Egypt; 117. Salr. Rofa, Kymphs bathing: 98. Palma the Younger, Mas-
sacre of the inhabitants of Hipponium; 263. Rvbens, Portrait of Fr. Franck ;
48. Domenichino, Biblical landscape; 87. Ginlio Romano, Portrait; 113. Roa-
aelli. Head of an old man; 21. Ann. Carracci, Crueifi.xiou of St. Peter; 39.
Cigoli, St. Francis; 276. Swanevelt, Landscape; *101. P. Veronese, Marriage
of St. Catharine; 241. Moiicheron, Landscape; *260. Rubens, Ciirist crucified;
259. Rogham, Landscape ; 60. G. Poussin, Landscape; 213. Jlondecoeter, Birds;
150. Jo.'!, de Sarabia, Virgin and Child; 148. JoanH, St. Francis of Borgia;
152. Zurbaran, St. Agatha; 457. Fabre, founder of the Musee (see above),
Portrait of the artist|; 149. Rizzi or Ricci, .\doration of the Shepherds; 151.
Zurbaran, The angel Gabriel :22. Ann. Carracci, Pieta: 79. Guereino, Herodias;
264. J. Ruyulael, Landscape; 180. P. Campana, Descent from the Cross; 191.
192. Dietrich, Landscapes; 178. /'• Brueghel, Grotesijue lieail: 248. A. van
Ostade, Lute-player; 200. Van Dijck, \irgin and Child: 112. RosselU, St.
Anthony; id. Caravaggio, St. JIark; 157. ISerghem, Landscape; 42. Dan. da
Volterra, Beheading of John the Haptist: *107. Raphael (?) . Portrait of a
young man, 'the gem of the Fabre Gallery'; 90. Locatelli , Landscape;
i23. iassoferrato, AMartyr \'irgin; IIG. Salv. Rosa, Landscape; 78. Guereino,
Si. Francis; 827. after Stichael Angelo , The Last Judgment, copy of 1.570,
previous to the additions made to tlie original bv Dan. da Volterra; 108.
after Raphael, St. Micliael, a fine copy; Gtiido Reni, 80. St. Peter. 82. St.
.\gatha; 59. Gaspard Poussin, Landscape; 43. C. Dolci, The \'irgin with
the lilv; 122. Sassoferrato , The Virgin; 57. Ga.^p. Poussin, Laudsiape ;
44. Doici, The Saviour; 21. Ann. Carracci, Crucifi.\ion of St. IVter; 829.
Moroni, Portrait of Aleoni, the Venetian general.
Musee. MONTPELLIER. V. lioute 60. 405
Farthest Room : to tbe left, 234. JtfVeri* tAe£'JcZ<»', Girl stringing beaJs :
247. Adr. van Ostade , Tavern interior; 523. Oreitze, Morning prayer; 304.
Adr. van der Werff, Susannah at the bath; 52S. Oreuze, Young girl; 1 9.
Teniers the Younger, Tabagie . the Man with the white hat; 215. Ilnysvians,
Landscape; 271. Sieen, The traveller's rest; 626. Greuze, Young girl with
clasped hands; 308. Pliil. Wourerman , The Little Sands; 195. Oer. l)ou.
The Miiusetrap; 525. Greuze, The Little mathematician; 290. Teniers the
Younger, Tabagie, or the JIan with the stone pitcher; 527. Greuze, Y'oung
girl with a basket; 155. Asselyn , Lion-hunt; 199. Van Dt/ck , Virgin with
the Child, standing on her knees ; 254. P. Potter, Cows ; 186. JJemarne, 168.
Van Bloemen, 172. Both, Landscapes; 267. Ri/ckaert, Tooth-extractor; 183.
Cnyp, Bank of the Meuse : no number, Florentine .School of the 16th Cent., Visi-
tation ; 315. Wijnantf, Landscape; no number, Brauu^er, The Alchemist;
230. Afetiu, Dutch merchant; 288. teniers. Smoker; 529. Greuze, Little girl;
310. Phil. W'ouverman, Horse -fair with the kicking horse; 266. Jac. Ruys-
dael, 216. Huysmans, 261. Rubens, Landscapes; 321. Reynolds, The Infant Sa-
muel ; 280. Teniers the Younger, Landscape ; 507. Girodet-Trioson, Y'oung girl ;
842. Van Goyen,2dd. A. van de Velde, Landscapes; 99. Panini, Ancient Rome;
524. Greuze, ^Gateau desRois'; 300. W.van de Velde, The little tleet; 309. PAiJ.
Wouverinan , The Stirrup-cup: 285. Teniers, Open air concert; 272. Steen,
Dutch repast ; 279. Teniers the roun^ei-, Landscape, the Great Chateau ; 265.
J. Ruysdael, 158. Berghem, Landscapes; no number, Haas, Portrait of a
woman : 159. Berghem, Land.scape ; 229. Metsu , The Scribe ; 208. School of
Memling, Five scenes from the life of the Virgin and Christ.
Adjoininc; Room: Drawings, bearing the names of the artists, and a
few small Bronzes. Then 3 Cabikets with the rest of the Bronzes, some
antique Vases, Engravings, and more Drauiings , a marble statue by Bar-
tolini, Venus reclining, the model of Uoudon's statue of Voltaire, etc. We
now find ourselves once more in the first room.
The Room to the lei't ok the Estrasce contains unimportant paint-
ings of the French School, including several by t'abre (p. 404). — On the
Staircase to the upper gallery : 865. Delaplanche, The Virgin with the lily;
748. Aizelin, The Suppliant.
Upper Gallery or Galerie Bruyas : 662. Rigaud, Portrait of Fontenelle ;
635, 645. Poussin, Landscapes; no number, Cabanel, Xymph surprized by a
satyr; 558. LargilUere , Portrait of the artist; 606. A'lV. itignard and 3o8.
Chdrdin, Portraits: Pou.%sin , 639. Portrait of Cardinal .1. Kospigliosi, 638.
Adoration of the Shepherds; 336. Bourdon, Portrait of a Spaniard; 700. Va-
lentine, Scholars drawing from casts; 633. Poussin, Baptism of Christ:
670. Stella, The Woman of Samaria: no numlter, Ingres, Death of a young
Greek: 632. /'o«.«.<i» , Death of St. Cecilia; 520. Granet , Tasso visited iii
prison by Jlontaigne; Greuze, 530. The Paralytic, 532. Child's head, 533. De-
sire, 531. The Little Sluggard; 34.5. Brascassat, Cows grazing; 517. Isabeu,
Sea-piece: Glaize, of Montpellier, 516. Portrait of Bruvas, a benefactor of
the Museum, 519. The mocking of Christ; 664. Jiobert-'Pleury, The Toilet;
668. A. Scheifer, A philosopher; 836. Velasquez (!) , Portrait of an alguazil :
■498. Gerard, The actress Pasta as one of the JIuses; Courbet, 380. Portrait
of Bruvas, 375. Portrait of theartist, 373. Spinning girl asleep, 376. The
Meeting (Bruyas and the artist). 372. Solitude, 379,374,378. Studies of heads;
435. G. /)o>'e, "Evening on the Rhine; 338. Bourdon, Portrait; Delacroix, 409.
Hichael Angelo in his studio, 408. Daniel in the den of lions, 410. Orpheus
and Eurydice (sketch), 406. Charge of Arabian horsemen, 405. The Mulaltn,
407. Algerian Women, 411. Portrait of Bruvas; 369. Courbet, Bathers; 698.
Troyon, Cattle: 665. Th/od. Rousseau, The pond; 349. Al. Cabanel, of Mont-
pellier, Thinker; 486. Promentin, Arab Tents; 366, 367, 365. Corot, Lan.l
scapes; 676. Tas.^aert, Heaven and Hell; Al. Cabanel, 353. Portrait of the
artist. 352. Velleda; 436. G. Dore, Recollection of the Alps: 547. Eug. Isabeu,
Sea-piece; Fabre, 447. Portrait of Canova, 439. Death of Abel, 441. Saul
moved by remorse; Jos. Vernet, 705. Tempest, 704. Landscape; no number,
Cabanel, Phaedra; Vincent, 717. Alcibiades, Socrates, and his genius, 715.
St. Jerome; David, 399. Hector (studv), 397,398. Portraits: no number, Ca-
banel, Portrait; 710. Vien, St. John the Baptist: 521. Granet, The vaults at
406 V. Route 60. CETTE.
S. Martino ai llonti (Rome); 663. Hub. Robert, Landscape ; 634. iV. Ponssin,
Birth of Bacchus. — In the middle, 780. Gumery ^ Faun playing with a
kid, bronze. On the pillars, 785. Pradier, Nyssia; Houdon, 782. Summer,
781. Winter; 863. .4^*6^, Galatea.
In the same building is the Municipal Library (100,000 vols, and 10,000
engravings), open to the public daily except Wed. and holidays, 11-4
and 7-9; in June, July, and Aug. 1-6 only.
T\i& Esplanade (PI. D, 3, 4), a handsome promenade, 500 yds.
long, commands an attractive view from its N. end. Military band,
see p. 402. Fairs on the second Mon. after Easter and 2nd Nov. —
To the E. is the Champ de Mars and the Citadel; to the S. is the
Palavas Station (see below).
Fhom Montpellier to Palava.s, 71/2 31., railway in 25 min. (fares
1st cl., 1 fr. 20; 2nd el., 75 c). — Palavas (Grand- Hotel, etc.; Casino) is
a favourite sea-bathing resort, with a fine sandy beacli at the mouth of
the canalised Lez. — About 21/2-3 M. to the S.W. (I3/4 M. to the S.E. ot
Villeneuve, see below) on a strip of land between thesea and the Arnel
Lagoon, stood the town of Maguelonne, founded, it is said, by Phocians
and long a prosperous sea-port. The Saracens having seized it, Charles-
Jlartel recaptured and destroyed it in 737. It rose again, however, from
its ruins, but Louis XIII. razed it to the ground in 1633, with the ex-
ception of its cathedral, a curious building in the Romanesque and Gothic
styles, now in ruins.
A branch-line runs also from Montpellier to (I71/2 M) Sommieres (p. 40.)),
via Les Mazes (p. 401) and (71/2 M.) Castries, which has a fine chateau.
From Montpellier to Rodez , see R. 13; to Beziers via Paulhan and
Meze, p. 86.
Beyond Montpellier we cross the Mosson. — 36 M. Villeneuve-
les-Maguelonne. — 39 '/2 M. Vic-Mireval. — 44 M. Frontignan, a
town of 3326inhab., celebrated for its muscatel wines. It is situated
on the banks of the Etang d'Ingril. which the railroad crosses by
a causeway ^|^ M. long. Farther on we skirt the shore of the Medi-
terranean^ leaving the Etang de Thau (p. 86) to the right.
48'/2 M. Cettei Buffet; *Grnnd-H6t.,H. BariUon, Qiia.\ du Bosc 17
and 10; tramway at the station), a flourishing town of 37,058 inhab.,
situated on a hill between the Etang de Thau and the Mediterranean,
with a fairly busy port and at the junction of the Lyons and Midi rail-
ways. Its name, derived from the Greek 'Setiou', carries back its
origin to remote times, but its importance dates only from the end
of the 17th cent., when its port was established uiuler the direction
of Riquet, whose canal it completes (p. 72). The chief exports are
wines, salt, brandies, and other Northern products. In 1867 the
ships entering and clearing the port had an aggregate burden of
400,000 tons ; now the annual tonnage is 2,300,000. It is also the seat
of considerable industry, and prociuces large quantities of wine, doc-
tored by blending or fortified by brandy etc., to imitate Spanish wines.
Cette contains little of interest for the tourist, although the town
has recently been much improved. The Port is almost the sole
object of interest. It has three basins, connected by canals with the
Etang de Thau, to which the Canal du Midi extends, and with the
railway station. On the side of the town, properly so called , is the
old harbour, with a fine pier terminated by a fort. On the beach
VIENNE. V. Route 61. 407
are the frequented Sea- Baths, and there are large saltworks on the
banks of the Etaiig de Thau.
A branch-line runs from Cette to (8 M.) ilontbazin (p. 381), via (81/2 M.)
Balaruc-les-Bains , at the N.E. extremity of the Etarfg, with two bath-
establishments. The mineral waters are especially used in cases of
paralysis, chronic rheumatism, and scrofula.
From Cette to Toulouse, Perpignan, etc., see RR. 11 and 26.
61. FromLyons to Marseilles by the Valley of the Ehone.
2I8M. Railway in 6I/4-II hrs. (fares 43 fr. 40. 32 fr. 60. 23 fr. 95 c). —
To (I91/0 31.) Vienne in S/4,-2 hrs. (3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 10 c). From
Vienne to (46VoM.) Valence, IV4-2V4 hrs. (9 fr. 35, 7 fr., 5 fr. 15 c). From
Valence to (59"iA M.) Orange, I3/4-31/0 hrs. (12 fr., 8 fr. 95, 6 fr. 60 c).
From Orange to '(171/-^ M.) Avignon, i/.,-l hr. (3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 95 c.).
From AvignoH to ilU/.^M.) Aries, 3/4-13/4 hr. (4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 40c.).
From Aries to (331/2 M-) ^farseilles, 174-3 hrs. (10 fr. 60, 8fr. , 5 fr. 85c.).
— The route from Lyons to Marseilles via Grenoble, 265 JI. in 12V2-14V.. hrs.
fares 52 fr. 55, 39 fr". 40, 28 fr. 90 c.) is preferable in summer."
The descent of the Rhone may also be made in the steamer ff/adiateHr
(p. 211), leaving Lyons on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 6 a. m., reaching
-Cvignon about 6 p. m. , starting next day at 6 a. m. and reaching Mar-
seilles about midday. As far as Avignon the scenery of the Rhone is not
uninteresting. The liills on the right bank, with their ruined castles, recall
the scenery of the Rhine.
LyoHK, see p. 210. — The trains start from the Gare de Perrathe.
We cross the Rhone and follow its left bank, leaving on the left
the lines to Geneva , to Chamb^ry and Turin , and to Marseilles
via Grenoble. Fine retrospective view of the town and then view
on the right. — 3M. St. Funs; 6V4M. Feyzin: 9'/4M. Se're'un. The
line skirts the Rhone. From (13 M.) Clhasse a junction-line connects
the Marseilles line with the St. Etienne line at (G', 2 M-) Givors (p. 227).
The town of Vienne appears in the distance, on the right before
we reach (18 M.) Estressin. Beyond a short tunnel we cross the Geie
and traverse a second tunnel, ^'j M. long, under the town itself.
19'/2M. Vienne (Hutel du Nord, Place de Mircmont; de la Poste,
Cours Romestang, 15), a (own of 25.480 inhab.. is picturesquely situ-
ated at the confluence of the Rhone and Gere, on the side of a hill
surrounded by montains. It is ill-built and ill-paved and not very
clean, not uncommon drawbacks in this part of Southern France.
Vienne is the Vienna Allobrogwn of the Romans, under whom it was
a flourishing colony. It afterwards became the capital of the Viennaise,
one of the seventeen provinces of Gaul at the end of the empire, and was
even the residence of several emperors: but there are now few relics of
this period. Vienne was the cradle of Christianity in Gaul, and its arch-
bishops bore the title of Primate of Gaul down to the Revolution. It be-
came the capital of the first (413-534) and second (879-933) kingdoms of
Burgundy, but afterwards fell to the rank of chief town of a countship
and was governed by its archbishops, then by the <'ounts of .Mbon. The
latter, who became Dauphins of the Viennaise. ceded their domains to
France in 1349 (see p. 321). Several councils were held at Vienne.
among others the General Council of 1311-1312, at which the Order of
Templars was abolished. — The town now contains numerous cloth fac-
tories, tanneries, iron and copper works, paper mills, glass-works, etc.
408 V. Route 61. VIENNE. Fi-om Lyons
On leaving the station, we turn to the right and follow the Cours
Romestang to the Place deMiremont, in which there is a market-hall.
The Cathedral (St. Maurice), to the left, is a fine Gothic church
dating from the 12-15th centuries. The facade, towards the Rhone,
rises from a terrace approached hy a flight of steps and surrounded
by a balustrade in the Flamboyant style. Viewed from a distance
it produces a fine effect, with its three portals, large window, and
two towers in the same style , but on a nearer approach it has all
the appearance of a ruin, at least in its upper part, owing to the
soft character of the stone with which it is built. An arcaded gallery
runs round the top of the exterior, and on the aisles are rows of
small columns, those on the left having Romanesque arches sur-
mounted by modillions.
Interior. Like many of the churches in the E. and S.E. of France,
this cathedral is in tlie shape of a basilica, i. e. it consists of nave and
aisles without either transejits or ambulatory. The aisles terminate in
straight walls. Among the details are enga,;ed columns, fluted and cabled
pilasters, and Byzantine capitals. Round the nave and the choir isaGotliic
gallery, above which is a frieze with incrustation in red plaster. In the
2nd and 3rd chapels to the left are the stone coffins of two abbots (d.
486 and 1245). The choir contains an altar of green marble, by Miclicl
Angelo Slodtz, and the tomb of two archbishops of the 18th cent., by the
same sculptor. At the end of the right aisle is a fine window of the 18tli
cent. ; and to the right of the choir is a painting of the Holy Sepulchre,
by Chabord.
On the left of the cathedral nave is a cloister -portal of the
15th century. The street oppo.site the portal leads to the Suspe7isi.on
Bridge, which connects the town of Ste. Colombe (p. 390) witli
Vienne. The square tower seen on the right from the bridge, was built
in the 14th cent, at the end of a stone bridge, long since destroyed.
Retracing our steps nearly to the cathedral, we turn to the left into
the Grande Rue, and then to the right into the Rue des Serruriers.
The*TEMPLE ov Augustus and Livia, in a square through which
this street passes , is a Roman building similar to the celebrated
Maison-Carr(5e at Niraes (p. 397) , slightly larger though less well-
preserved. The form is pseudo -peripteral- hexastyle (fluted co-
lumns), and the dimensions 88V2 ft- hy 49'/4 ft. and 57 ft. high. It
was surrounded by a peristyle and the flight of steps was dis-
covered during tlie work of restoration. The ill usage of which it
still shows too evident traces was in part the result of its conversion
into a church during the Middle Ages, when the spaces between the
columns were walled up and doors and windows inserted. — All round
are ancient fragments of columns and rich entablatures, etc.
At the end of the square, on the right, and higher up on the
left of the Rue des Serruriers , are streets leading to the Hotel de
Ville. The Rue des Serruriers afterwards crosses the Rue Ponsard,
which leads to the right to the Place de Miremont; then it passes
by the side of the huge Hospital, and terminates at some very large
Roman Arches , now regarded as the remains of the forum or of a
theatre. The Flotel de Ville is a handsome modern building in the
to Marseilles. VIENNE. V. lioute 61. 40!)
Neo-Etruscaii style, facing a square embellished with a bronze
Statue of Ponsard . the dramatic poet, of Vienne (1814-1867). by
Dechaume. In the Hotel de Ville is a small Museum, open on Sun.
and Thurs., 10-12 and 2-5.
A street beginning a little lower, to the left, at the Place du
Temple, leads to the Church of St. Andre'-le-Bas. in the Transition
style, with an interesting tower. A little fnrther down is the con-
fluence of the Gere and Rhone. Numerous manufactories extend
up the banks of the latter river. A good view is obtained from the
quay of the ruined Chateau de la Bdtie (13th cent.), on the top of
the right bank of the Gere, and of the ruined Chateau de Pipet, on
the left bank , where there is also a colossal modern statue of the
Mrgin. The ascent (line view) takes 15-20 minutes.
We now descend along the quay. Beyond the suspension- bridge
the little tower of tlie Church of St. Pierre appears on the left. The
church, a Romanesque building of the Dth cent, (restored), is reached
by following the Grande Rue to the right from the portal of the
cathedral , and then the Rue St. Georges, the 4th on the right. It
now contains the Muse'e Lapiddire, open on Sun. and Thurs., 2-5.
Farther on. between the Rhone and the Place de la Caserne,
near the station, is the Champ-de- Mars. Following the Rue d'Avi-
gnon on the other side, to the left of the barracks, we reach, in
about r2min. from the station to the right, the Plan d' Aiguille.
an antique pyramid 52 ft. high, which was probably one of the goals
of a large circus, though popularly known as Pilates Tomb". The
interior is hollow and the base forms a square pierced by a double
arch with Corinthian columns, of which the carving is unfinished.
On quitting Vienne the train passes to the right of the Plan de
rAiguille. On both banks of the Rhone are mountains with or-
chards and vineyards, the picturesque Pilat range (p. 228) forming
the background to the right. 22".2 M. Vaugris. Opposite is the
famous Cote-Rotie vineyard (p. 390). — 26'/2 M. Les Roches-de-
Condrieu, : S'2M. Le Pe'age-de-Roussillon ; 35 M. Salaise. — 38 M.
St. Rambert-d'Albon (Buffet).
From St. Rambert to Annonay, Firminy and St. Just-siir-Loire, see
V. 198.
From St. Rambert to Rives (Grenoble). 3.5 M., railway in IV4-3V4 hrs.
(fares 6 fr. 85, 5 fr. 15, 3 fr. 75 c.). — This line traverses a monotonous
plain and plateau. — 13 M. Heaurepaire ^ a small town to tlie left. —
23 M. La C6tt-St. Andre, the station for the ancient and decayed little
town of the same name, 3 M. to the N. — 35 M. Kive.^ (p. 319). '
The railway continues to skirt the Rhone, on the heights over-
looking which are various chateaux, some still inhabited and some in
ruins. 41'/2M. .\ndancette; 45'/2 M. St. ValUer, a small manufac-
turing town; 491/2 M. Serves. — 54'/2 M. Tain, a little town oppo-
site Tournon (p. 390) and at the foot of the hill called the Ermitagr,
on which grow the celebrated 'Hermitage' wines. In the Place de
THotel-de-ViUe is an ancient sacrificial altar found in the neigh-
410 V. Route 61. VALENCE. From Lyons
bourhood. — Farther on to the left, the Alps are seen , sometimes
even Mont-Blane. 60 M. La Roche-de-Glun. We cross the Isere.
Near Valence, on the right bank, are the ruins of the Chateau de
Crussol (see below). To the left, is the Grenoble line (p. 390). Valence
is now seen on the right, and we pass through a tunnel, 1/4 M. long,
under the boulevards.
66 M. Valence (Buffet; Grand-Hotel de la Croix-d'Or, Place
de la R^publique; du Louvre et de la Posfe, Avenue Victor-Hugo ;
both dear), the Valentia of the Romans, a town of 24,061 inhab.,
on the left bank of the Rhone, is the capital of the department
ofthe Drome. The boulevards are the only well-built part of the town,
which contains little to interest the traveller.
The street opposite the station and the Avenue Victor-Hugo,
lead to the beginning of the boulevards in the handsome Place de
la Reptibliqve. In the Esplanade, to the left, is a bronze statue , by
Sappey, of General Championnet, commander-in-chief of the army
in Italy, who seized the kingdom of Naples in 1798.
The Cathedral (St. Apollinaire), a few paces to the right from the
square, is a curious church in the Auvergnat-Romanesque style (p.
232), consecrated in 1095 by Pope Urban II. The most thorough of
the several restorations was undertaken recently when the tower on
the facade was rebuilt, forming a porch with a handsome portal.
The exterior, like those of the two following buildings, is still much
dilapidated. The interior is cruciform; the nave is barrel -vaulted,
while the aisles have groined vaults. The apse with its colonnade
should be noted. In the chancel is a marble monument to Pius VI.
who died in exile at Valence, with a bust by Canova.
Facing the left side- portal ofthe cathedral is Le Pendentif, a
lurious sepulchral edifice dating from 1548. and so named from the
>hape of its vault. — In the Grande Rue , which passes behind the
ihoir, to the left is the Maison des Tetes, another curious but very
dilapidated building of the 16th cent. (1531), with busts, richly
ilecorated windows, and an interesting portal and court.
Keeping straight on we pass the end of a street leading, to the
left, past a modern Mauresque House, to the Prefecture, and farther
on we reach the church of S^ Jean-i3r77)^/8/e, lately rebuilt in the Ro-
manesque style. It has a wide nave, and a fine organ-loft, and con-
tains some ancient paintings, while the fonts are also noteworthy. —
A little farther on is the Museum (open Sun. and Thurs. 1-4), con-
taining a small picture-gallery, with specimens of Rubens, Da\id,
Guercino, etc. , besides sculptures, casts, antiquities, etc. In the
same building is also the Municipal Library.
In the boulevards skirting the old towii near the railway station,
is a statue of Count MontaUret (1766-1822), minister under Napo-
leon I., and maire of Valence. Farther on is a pretty new Fountain.
An interesting p.\eursion may be made from Valence to the Ruines
<le Criisfol, the remains of a 12th cent, castle, on a hill on the right bank
to Marseilles. MONTELIMAR. V. Route 61. 411
of the Khone opposite the town. An omnibus (25c.) runs in 40 min. to
(21/2 51 ■) St. Peray (p. 390), to the N.W., whence the aacent is made in
i/i hr. Fine view.
From Valence to Grenoble, see p. 328.
TOM. Fortes; 71' '^M. Etoile. TS'/a M. Livron , a town with
4061 iiihab., on a hill overlooking the Drome, was loiineily fortifled.
Here the Huguenots successfully resisted a siege by Henri III. in
1574. It possesses a ruined castle.
From Livron to Die (Aspres), 331/2 M. , railway in 2-2i/2l'>"S- (fares
G Ir. 65, 5 fr., 3 fr. 65 c). This branch-line ascends the Drome valley via
(33/4 M.) PoHt-de-Livron. oi/o JI. Allex. 11 31. Crest (Hotel Reboul) , a manu-
facturing town with 5669inhab., on the right bank ol' the Uriime. Its
castle, after successfully resisting both Simon de Montfort and Lesdiguieres,
was demolished by Richelieu. A high square tower, once used as a state-
prison, is the only relic now left.
Beyond (131/2 M.) Aouste, a manufacturing village, and the small town
of (201 2 JI) Saillans the scenery of the valley improves. 25 31. Vercheny,
at the 'foot of the Hoc de Barry (3660 ft.). 2"9 31. J'ontaix , a village pic-
turesquely situated near a narrow gorge of the Drome.
331/2 M. Die (H6t. lie St. Dominique), a town of3823 inhab., on the right bank
of the Drome, at the foot of Mont Glandaz (6645 ft.), was the Dea Vocon-
tiorum of the Romans, consecrated to Cybele, and one of their principal
colonies on the road from 3Iilan to Vienne. Only a few fragmentary remain.'^
are now left of the ancient town. The former cathedral (Uth cent.; partly
rebuilt in the 17th) contains some antique columns. — The railway is to
be continued up the valley of the Drome to join the lines from Grenoble
to Marseilles and Brian(;on at (35 31.) A.ipres (p. 340), passing under the
Col de Cabre by a tunnel, 21/4 31. long.
From Livron to Priva.-;, 20 31., branch-line crossing the Rhone, with
a line view, to the right, of l.avoulte and its castle, and beyond a long
tunnel joining the Lvons and Ximes line. liA 31. Lavoulte (p. 390); 7 31.
Le PoHzin. Thence to (20 31.) Prira.t, see p. 390.
Beyond Livron we cross the Drome, with a line view of the
valley to the left. Numerous mulberry-trees. The scenery indicates
our approach to theS.: the mountains are bare, the fields, fertile in
spring, are parched in summer and autumn; dust and heat afflict the
traveller from the Nortli in summer, while at other times the piercing
Mistral (p. 413) too often blows. 78 M. Loriol ; 82' j M. Snitlce. At
(86'/.2 M.) Lachamp- Con d iliac we again approach the Ulione. To
the right arc tli(> rocks of Rochemaure (p. 3*J1).
03 M. Moiit6limar { Buffet ; Hotel de la Posfe), an ancient and
prosperous town with 14,014 inhab., the most interesting building
in which is its old Castle, now a prison. There is a tine view of the
mountains of Vivarais from the terrace. Naar the station is a pretty
public garden. Montelimar is noted for its Nougat, a kind of almond
sweetmeat. Roads lead hence on the right bank to (3M.) Rochemaure
p. 891) and (3 xM.) Le Teil (p. 391).
The railway crosses the lioiibion and Jahron. 98',2 M. Chdteau-
neuf- du- Rhone , connected by a suspension - bridge with Vivicrs
(p. 391), of which there is a pretty view. The line here runs between
the river on the riglit and perpendicular rocks on the left. — Olives
begin to appear before (lOl'^M.) Donzere (Hotel du Commerce).
A carriage-road runs hence to the E..S.E. to the (11 31.) little town of
Grignan (Hotel des Bon$- Enfants) , with the remains of the niagnificent
412 V. Route 61. ORANGE. From Lyons
Chateau belonging to the Counts of Grignan, one of whom married Bla-
dame de Se'vigne's daughter. Visitors are admitted on Thurs. only, 1-5,
except when that day falls on a festival or is a fair-day. The chateau
contains a fairly good gallery of paintings. JIadame de Sevigne died
here in 1696 and is buried in the adjoining church, where her grave i.s
marked by a simple marble slab with inscription. Her Statue, of recent
erection, by the brothers Rochet, stands in the Place de THotel-de-Ville.
To the left, upon a hill, appears La Garde- Adhimar, which has
a remarkable Romanesque church with a doifble apse. At (106 M.)
Pierrelatte, a town with 3223 iahab., a rock is shown, said to have
been brought thither by a giant ("petra lata'). About 5 M. to the S.E.
is St. Panl-Trois- Chateaux, a decayed little town of some importance
ill the time of the Romans under the name of Tricastrum. It has an
interesting old Romanesque cathedral. 112 M. La Palud. 1131/2 M.
Bollene-la-Crolsiere. Bollene, 2V2 M. to the E., another little town
of antique origin, still retains part of its 14th cent, fortifications, and
a 15th cent, tower, dating from a priory.
A diligence plies hence to (1/2 hr.J Pont-St. Esprit (p. 391) and (2(1/2 M.)
Nyons (II. du Louvre ; des Voyageurs), an old industrial town (3534 inhab),
on the Eygues, also reached by diligence from Ca?'pen</'os (26i/o M. ; p. 418)
via (10 M.) Vaison (p. 413).
116 M. Mondragun has a picturesque ruined castle. 119 M.
Mornas; 121 M. Piolenc. We enter the fertile plain of Orange,
and cross the Eygues; the horizon is bounded on the left by Mont-
Ventoux (p. 419)^
125'/2M. Orange (Hotel de la Poste et des Princes. Avenue de
I'Arc-de-Triomphe) , with 10,280 inhab. , was the Araj^sio of the
Romans, and once a prosperous and important place. About 2 hrs.
suffice for a visit to the interesting Roman remains.
In the Middle Ages Orange was the chief town of a small principality
which, on the death of the last reigning prince without issue in 1531, fell
to his nephew the Count of Xassau, and until the death of William III.
(d. 1702), king of England, continued subject to the house of Nassau-
Orange. By the Peace of Utrecht (1713) Orange was annexed to France, and
the house of Nassau retained the title only of princes of Orange.
The *TRiuMPnAL Arch is situated 1 M. to the N. of the town, on
the Lyons road. This structure, the finest monument of the kind
in France, is in a fair state of preservation , and measures 72 ft. in
height, 67 ft. in width, and 2G ft. in depth. It consists of three
arches, the centre one considerably larger tlian the others. The
side farthest from the town is iu best preservation, and presents
four fluted Corinthian columns, of which those in the centre sup-
port a triangular pediuHMit. The mouldings, vaults, which have ma?-
niflccnt panels, archi\ olts and attic story are richly ornamented. The
last especially has some curious bas-reliefs, with numerous figures,
very life-like, but small and difficult to distinguish. At the sides
are numerous trophies. Similar arrangements and decorations ap-
pear on the other sides, except the W. , which has been deprived
of its ornamentation. The name of Sacrovir, on one of the shields,
has led some to suppose that it was erected under Tiberius after
to Marseilles. VAISON. V. Route 61. 413
his victory over this chieftain of the .Edui. A. D. 21 ; but others
assign it to the 2nd century.
The *RoMAN- Theatrb (waiter '/j fr.) on the other or S. side
of the town, about ' , M. from the Triumphal Arch, is reached
by retraciiiff our steps and keeping almost straight on (Place de
IHotel-de-Vilie. see below). This theatre is very striking on account
of its size, in spite of its now ruinous condition. The hill against
which it is built, and on which the amphitheatre was constructed,
is rendered conspicuous by a statue of the Virgin. The tiers of
seats are almost all destroyed or ruined . but the stage , which is
unique, is almost entirely preserved, and from it we may judge of
the arrangement of a Roman theatre. The wall at the back of the
building, on the side next the town, is 118ft. high, 340 ft. long,
and 13 ft. thick. Blind arcades are its only ornamentation. At the
top corbel stones may still be seen with holes in which the masts
of the velarium were placed. The stage, contrary to the usual practice,
was roofed. This theatre held about 7000 spectators.
On the hill above the amphitheatre are the scanty ruins of the
Castle of the Princes of Orange, built of Roman materials and de-
stroyed in 1673 by order of Louis XIV. — Beside the theatre, to
the right of its facade, are a triumphal gateway and a portico, with
other remains of a huge Circus.
The Place de THotel-de-Ville is embellished with the marble
statue, by Daniel Dulocle (1846), of Count Raimbaud II., who
was killed at the siege of Antioch in 1099.
A cross-street to our left as we return from the Roman theatre
leads to the Cours St. Martin, a fine promenade with a brojize
statue, by P. Hebert. of Count Gasparin (1783-1862). agriculturist
and politician, born at Orange. In the same street is the Theatre
(1885). and a few yards to the right, behind the statue, is the Boule-
vard de la Meyne.
Froui Orange we may make the ascent oi Mont-Ventouz (p. 419). An
omnibus, starting at 3 a. m., plies in 5 hrs to (20 M.) Malaucine (Hotel <lu
Cours), a small town to the \V., whence the summit is reached in about
.5 hrs., with guide.
Another public vehicle plies to (16 M.) Vaison (IlOtel du Commerce),
a town with 2963 inliab.. on the Oureze. The importance of this ancient
place \inder the Komans is indicated by the numerous antiquities found
here. It was the seat of a bishop until the I'ith cent., and its former
Cathedral and the old Church of Si. Qiientin, dedicated to one of the bishops,
are interesting. Vaison also has a Roman bridge, some old fortifications,
and a mediaeval cliateau. — Omnibuses ply hence to (10 M.) N!/on.<: (p. 412)
and to (16i/-.> M.) Carpentras (p. 418).
The railway beyond Orange crosses the plain , at a considerable
distance from the Rhone. The plain is much subject to the Mistral,
or piercing N.W. wind . which prevails especially in winter and
autumn on the shores of the Mediterranean, and which is beneftcial
in purifying the atmosphere. Plantations of cypress-trees have been
planted in this neighbourhood as a protection against this wind. —
.Mont-Ventoux is still visible on the left.
414 V. Route 61. AA'IGNON. From Lyons
130 M. Courthezon (3200 inhab.) has some 14th cent, fortifica-
tions and a fine modern chateau. — ISS'/a M. Be'darrides , a small
town at the confluence of the Ouiwze and the Sorgue, the latter of
which we cross. From (137 M.) Sorgues, a small industrial town,
a branch-line runs to Carpentras (p. 418). 139'/2 M. Le Ponfet. We
now once more approach tlie llhone. — 142 M. Avignon (Buffet).
Avignon. — Hotels, *Grakd Hotel (PI. a;C, 3j, Rue de la Re'publique,
<lej. 21/2, D. 3 fr. ; *DE l'Europe (PI. x;C, 1), Place Crillon, far from the
station and rather dear; du Louvre (Pl.b;C, 2), Rue St. Agricol 23, de.j.
21/2, D. 3 fr. (the dining-hall is an old Gothic chapel) ; DU I.,uxembourg
(Pl.c; D, 3), Rue du Chapeau-Rouge , a little out of the way, but well
spoken of; Pons (PI. d: B, 3), unpretending, with restaurant, Cours de la
Republique, near the station.
Caf^s. De France, Fh-rier, de Paris, etc.. Place de THorloge or de
I'Hotel-de-ViUe (PI. C, 2).
Cabs. Per drive in the town, 50 c. for 3 pers. ; beyond the outer
boulevards, 1 fr. ; per hour, 1 fr. 60; double fare after 10 p. m.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. C, 3) , Rue de la Republique. — Batlts
at the Grand-Hotel.
Avignon, a town of 41,000 inhab. , is the capital of the depart-
ment of Vaucliise and the seat of an archbishopric. It is built on
the left bank of the Rhone . above which rises a rock , crowned by
the ancient palace of the popes and the cathedral. The buildings
overlooking the town, and the old fortifications surrounding it, give
it a marked and picturesque appearance, but with the exception of
the Cours and Rue de la Republique, leading from the station to the
Place de lllorloge, nearly all its streets are narrow, tortuous, badly
paved and dirty, and a stay there is not very pleasant , principally
on account of the Mistral (p. 413); hence the saying: 'Avenio
ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa'.
Avignon, the ancient Avenio, powerful even before the arrival of the
Romans, became under their dominion a flovirishing colony, though it has
preserved scarcely any relics of its ancient monuments. It owes its main
interest to the fact that it was the residence of the popes from 1305 to
1377, seven of whom, from Clement V. to Gregory XI., reigned here (the
latter transferred his seat to Rome in 1377), and it, along with the Comtat
Venaissin, continued sub.ject to the pontifical sway until it was annexed
to France by the Revolution in 1791. Peaceable till this epoch, Avignon
was then divided between two parties, the one favourable and the other
opposed to the annexation; and the assassination of one of the former
party was followed by the massacre of some adherents of the other,
who had been arrested by order of the notorious .Jourdain, nick-named
Coupe-Tete. In 1815, also, the royalist reactionaries committed excesses
in their turn, of which Marshal Brune, among others, was a victim. The
population sank from 80,000 in the reign of Louis XIV. to 17,000 at the
Revolution.
The *City Walls, .skirting the railway and near which is the
station, to the ,S. of the town, were built by the popes in the middle
of the 14th century. They are very well preserved, and present an
interesting example of the fortifications of that period. The gates
alone are in part destroyed, but the encircling wall, enclosing an
area not nearly occupied by the present population, still retains
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to Marseilles. AVIGNON. V. Route 61. 415
its 39 round or square towers, and its machieolated battlements.
On the outside it is surrounded by boulevards.
In the square in front of the station (PL B. 4) is a bronze statue,
by Guillauuie, of Philippe de Girard (1775-1S45), inventor of the
flax -spinning machine. The handsome Cours and the Rue de la
R^publique lead straight from the station to the Palace. At the end
of the street is the Place de VHorloge or de I'lIotel-de-Ville, con-
taining the modern Hotel de ^'ille (PI. C. 2) which has a 14th cent,
tower, with a quaint clock with figures that strike the hours. Farther
on is the Theatre, and beside it is a modern bronze statue, by V^ray.
oi'CriUon (1546-1615), the 'brave Crillon' of Henri IV. This square
contains several good caf^s and is much frequented on fine evenings.
— In the Rue du College-Rouge, to the left, is a house with a richly
sculptured Gothic, Portal; and here and there in the old town other
interesting private buildings may be seen. At many of the street
corners are figures of the Virgin in niches. The former *Palace of
the Popes (PL D, 2), a little farther on , to the right, is at present a
barrack , though it is destined for a better fate and may eventually
contain the gallery of paintings (see below). Permission to visit it
must be obtained from the commandant, at the office in the Hotel
de Ville (ground -floor, to the right). The palace is a lofty and
gloomy Gothic pile, commanding the town and its suburbs. It com-
prizes an irregular assemblage of buildings constructed under three
different popes from 1336 to 1364. The S. part is the most modern
the N. the oldest. It had seven towers, one of which has disappeared,
and the walls are 17-18 ft. thick.
In the interior the most interesting parts are the Salle du Consistoire,
containing frescoes (Prophets) by Simone Martini or Memmi of .Siena
(d. 1344); the Chapels, with paintings by the same artist; and the great
Tour de Trouillas, in which Rienzi was imprisoned in 1351, at tlie same
time as Petrarch was entertained in the palace as a guest. The square
tower called La Glaciere, was formerly employed as a prison of the In-
quisition, and during the Days of Terror in 1791 became the place of exe-
ciition of several innocent victims.
To the left of the Place du Palais is the former Papal Mint
(PL C. 2), now the Conservatoire de Musique, built in the 17th cent,
from Michael Angelo's designs. The chief ornaments of the facade
(the only interesting part) are two huge garlands on the first story.
a large shield on the second, and two eagles and two grotesque birds
on the Attic. The two lower stories have no windows. — At the
end of the square is the ancient Archbishop's Palace, of the 14th
cent., now used as a seminary (PL D, 2).
The Cathedral or Notre- Dame-des-Doms (PL D. 2). to the N. of
the palace, is a massive and sombre Romanesque church, of the 11th
cent. , often restored and in part rebuilt. The belfry is surmounted
hy a statue of the Virgin. The frescoes with which Simone Martini
adorned the porch are almost obliterated.
Interior. — The church is richly decorated. The galleries of the
nave have rich Renaissance balustrades of marble. In the large chapel
416 V. Haute 61. AVIGNON. From Lyons
to the left, is the Gothic tomb of Benedict XII. (d. 1342), and some frescoes
by Eug. Deveria, in a very bad light; and in a chapel to the right is a
statue of the Virgin, by Pradier. The lantern, at the entrance to the choir,
also shows some traces of paintings, and in the choir itself is placed the
ancient papal throne, in marble. The chief object of interest, however,
is the Tomb of John XXII. (d. 1334), a masterpiece of the Gothic style of
the 14th cent., unfortunately mutilated during the Revolution. It formerly
stood in the middle of the church, but is now preserved in a closed chapel
(gratuity), to the right of the choir, near the vestry. The pope is repre-
sented in a reclining position under a very rich Gothic canopy. — The
chief paintings in tlie last mentioned chapel and the rest of the church
are by Pierre Parrocel and JVic. Mignard.
To the N. of cathedral is the flue Promenade du Rocher des Doms
('rupes Dominorum' : Pi. D, 1), extending to the verge of the plateau,
which terminates ahruptly about 300 ft. above the Rhone. It is em-
bellished with a bronze statue, by Brian, oi Jean Althen, a Persian
who in 1766 introduced the cultivation of madder, which long formed
the staple commodity of the district, being used extensively in dyeing
the Franch red military trousers. The introduction of the alizarine
dyes, however, caused a great decline in the use of madder, which
is no longer cultivated here. The best point of view is an artificial
rocky eminence in the centre of the Promenade. The *Prospect, one
of the most beautiful in France , embraces the course of the Rhone
and its banks; Villeneuve on the opposite bank, with its citadel and
ancient towers ; in the distance towards the N. W. the Cevennes ; N.E.
Mont-Ventoux ; E. the Durance, resembling a silver thread, and be-
yond it the Alps; below the spectator the tortuous and antiquated
streets of Avignon.
From the promenade, to the left, are seen the ruins of the celebrated
Pont d\ivignon or .S'(. Bt'nezet (PI. D, 1), across the Rhone. This bridge, built
under the direction of St. Benezet by the "freres pontifes' , or 'bridge-
making fraternity', has a 15th cent, chapel of St. Benezet on the second
pier. The festival of the saint (April 14th) is celebrated with dancing.
Farther down a Suspension Bridge (PI. B, 1) and a wooden bridge, on
each side of an island, cross the river to Villeneuve. — Visitors desiring
to reach the river bank, sho>ild be careful to avoid the repulsively dirty
alleys leading from the Place du Palais.
The church of St. Agricol (PI. C, 2), in the street of the same
name, leading to the E. from the Place de rH6tel-de-ViIle. dates from
the 14-15th cent., and contains paintings by Parrocel, A. Mignard,
Fr. Vernef , etc., and other works of art. — The Rue St. Agricol
joins the Rue Joseph-A'ernet, opposite the (Jratoire (P1.B,C.2). an
attractive chapel of the 18th century.
Tlie *Mu86e or Museum Cnlcet (PI. B, 2. 3), farther to the left, in
a line 18th cent, mansion, halfway along the street, is one of the
richest in the provinces. It was founded in 1810 by the physician
whose name it bears, and who himself gathered together an im-
portant collection. It is open to the public on Sun. 12-4, and also
on other days to strangers. The catalogue (2 fr.) includes notices of
paintings belonging to the museum, which have since 1817 been
restored to the churches and chapels of the town.
Gkousd-Flook. — Vestibule: Roiiuin Antiquilies found in the district.
<Jn the staircase to the first floor are two well preserved Roman altars.
lo Marseilles. 'AVIGNON. V. lionte 61. 417
1st Gallkbv, on the right : Ancient and Modern Sculptures. In the middle,
Veray, Harvest woman; Bofio, Indian Maiden; Simian, Greek Art; Pradier,
Cassandra; /.. Brian, Faun. Jlercury, unfinished; David dWngerf, bust of
Cuvier. — 2nd Galleky, next tlie cr)urt: Mediaeval and Renaissance Sciilp-
ttiies, many from iMiildings in the neighbourhood. Tomb of Card. Krancas,
a line Gothic work adorned with statuettes; tomb of Urban V., also Go-
thic; Descent from the CnLss, in gilded and painted wood; magnificent
Kenaissance chimney-piece, and one of the 17th cent.; fine marble He-
naissance statues of Justice, Strength, and Temperance. On the ground
lloor, to the left of the entrance, is the Town-Library, with IIO.CXX) vols,
and 2850 JISS.
First Floor. — Gallery. 1st Bay, from right to left: 364, Brueghel the
aider, Rustic scene; Unknown Artist of the 16th cent., 468. Herodias, 470.
JIater Dolorosa, 471, St. Koch cured of the plague; 462, Unknoun artist
of the 15th cent.. Creation; 298. Bronzino (f). Crossing of the Red Sea;
310. Fontormo, Young lady at her toilet; 447. Unknown Artist of the 16th
cent., Pierre de Luxembourg, Bishop of Metz (d. 1387); 252. Simon de
ChtiloHS , who lived from 1545 to 1585 at Avignon, where there are nu-
merous other works by his hand), Adoration of the Shepherds; 384. Ger.
de St. Jean or de Harlem (loth cent.). Infant Jesus adored by a knight, lady,
and bishop; 464. Unknown Artist of the 16th cent.. The Virgin, Infant Jesus,
and St. John; 432. 0. van Veen, Moses and the ark of bulrushes; Un-
known Artist of the 15th cent., 456. Resurrection, 4.50. Virgin and Child;
*322. Gintto, Christ crowning the Virgin; 418. Rottenhamrner, XAiiraXioxi of
the Shepherds; 398. //. de Klerck, PFeta; 475. Unknown Artist of the 16th
cent.. Portrait of Andrea Doria : 253. Sim. de Chdlons, Descent from the
Cross; 389. Holbein the Younger', Portrait; 390. Holbein (?) , Henry VI. of
England; 448. Unknown Artist of the 16th cent.. Virgin; 364. Brueghel the
Elder, Dutch fair; 245-247, on the ceiling, Sauvan, 245. Sovereignty, 246.
Genius of the Consulate, 247. Genius of Government, the old ceiling of
the Hotel de Ville (18th cent.). — 2nd Bay: 122. Girodet-Trioson, Bust of
a Turk; 118. Gnicaidt, Battle of Nazareth (1799): im. After Michael Angela,
old copy of the Last Judgment, previous to Dan. da Volterra's additions;
316. G. Potissin , Landscape; 126. Granet, Jacques Molay's reception into
the (Jrder of the Templars: S3. Couder, Adoration of the Magi: '312. Lnr.
di Credi, Virgin and Child; 317. G. Poussin, Landscape; 342. School of
Raphai'l, Virgin honoured by Angels; 192. yic. Mignard (.Uigiiard d'Avignon-.
d. 1668), The Dead Christ; "324. Herrera the Elder, Siuipleion; 377. Van den-
Eeckhout, Calvary; 97. David, Death of Jos. Karra, unfinished; 333. Ribera,
St. Peter walking on the Sea of Galilee; 158. LargilUere, Portrait of a niece of
Mazarin: 345. 7'heotocopuli (O, Institution of the Rosary ; 348. Turchi, Jf sua
at the house of Simon the Pharisee; 178. Levieu.v (17th cent.), Jacob and
Laban; 319. Jmiocemo da Jmola (Inn. Francucci) , Holy Family; 314. G.
Poussin, Landscape: ^^380. Frans Floris (de Vriendt) , Crcesus and Solon:
381. Franck the Elder, Miracle of the Loaves; 211. P. Parrocel (1670-1739), of
Avignon, where his works are numerous, St. Francis of Assisi; 306. Careiio
de .Miranda, Portrait of an Archbp. of Seville; 375. Dusart, Old Man; 188.
Xic. Mignard, St. Br\ino: 172. Lenain, Portrait of an Abbess; 293. Albano,
Triumph of Amphitrite ; 6. Antigna, Storm; 366. 'Velvet' Brueghel, Fire;
421. Jac. Ruysdael, Landscape; 353. Zurbaran , Gipsy; 335. Salv. Rosa,
Landscape; 347. Turchi, Marriage at Cana ; 27. Big and , Fau.^t and Me-
phistopheles : 315. G. Poussin, Landscape; 308. L. Carracci, Angels mourn-
ing over Jesus: 133. Gudin, Port of Le Havre; 336. Salv. Rosa, Landscape;
26. Bigand, Michael Angelo in his studio; 329. Piazzetta, Child; 28. Bigand,
Faust and Mephistopheles ; 323. Herrera the Elder, St. Peter's IVnitence;
387. Hobbema, 411. Van der .Veer, and 337. Salv. Rosa, Landscapes; 368.
Ph. de Champaigne , Portrait: 300. Carletto Caliari (son of P. Veronese),
Group of five persons, fragment of a larger picture; 403. Mile, The
Woman of Samaria; 213. /'. Parrocel, Annunciation: 289. Mme. de Brtm,
Portrait of Mme. Cassini, the singer. — 3rd Bav : 483. Unknown Artist of
the nth cent.. The Unbelief of St. Thomas; 283." C. Vernet, The Corso ai
Rome; 284, 285. Hor. Vernet, Mazeppa, two originals; 265. Jos. Vernet oC
Avignon, Sea-piece; then several other sea-pieces by the same artist, and
Baedeker. Smithern France. 27
418 V. Route 61. AVIGNON. From Lyons
286. H. Vernet , Jos. Vernet tied to a mast. — The gallery also contains
a part of the Museum of Medals , with about 30,000 specimens , many
of them ancient.
Tke ADjoiKi>'(i Room, near the entrance, contains modern paintings,
the rest of the medals, and several curiosities: modern lias-relief in wax,
Isabella of Bavaria. — In the Following Room are antiquities and
eviriosities •, a rich collection of antique glass, vases, and small antique
bronzes, and objects dating from the Middle Ages. — The Last Room
contains two pieces of ebony ^Furniture , belonging to the end of the
Renaissance period, brought from the Colonna Palace at Avignon ; medals,
engravings, and a magnificent ivory ^Crucifix, 271/.) inches high, with
two extra arms, by Jean Guillermin (1659).
In the garden at the back of the Mnseum a monument wa.s
■erected in 1823 by Mr. Charles Kensall to the memory of Petrarch's
Laura. Her tomb was formerly in the Eglise des Cordeliers (College
St. Joseph; P1.D,4), but was destroyed with the church during
the Revolution.
In 1326 Francesco Petrarca, then 22 years of age, visited Avignon,
and beheld Laura de Noves^ who was in her 18th year, at the church of
the nunnery of St. Claire. Her beauty impressed the ardent young
Italian so profoundly, that, although he never received the slightest token
of regard from the object of his romantic attachment, either before or
after her marriage with Hugues de Sade , he continued throughout hi,-i
whole lifetime to celebrate her praises in songs and sonnets. In 1334 he
quitted Avignon for Vaucluse (p. 425), travelled in France, Germany, and
Italy, and returned to Avignon in 1342 (with his friend Cola di Rienzi),
where he found Laura the mother of a numerous family. She died in 1348,
bowed down by domestic affliction. Petrarch lived till 1374, and lon^
after Laura's death dedicated many touching lines to her memory.
The Rue Joseph-Vernet leads past the Mus^e to the Rue de !a
Republlque. At the opposite corner, to the right, is the Reqnien
Mnseum of Natural History (PI. B, C, 3), open to strangers at any time,
to the public on Sun. 12-4.
On the right of the Rue de la Republique is the Church of f^t.
Didier (PI. C, 3), of the 14th cent., with a Descent of the Holy Ghost,
by Simon de Chalons (p. 417), and other works of art. Close by is
the fine late-Renaissance Hotel Crillon. with a Bearing of the Cross
<'arved by an Italian artist in 1481.
Among the other cliurches of Avignon are St. Pierre (PI. D, 2).
oi the 14th cent., and St. Symphorien (PI. E.2, 3), both rich in paint-
fngs by P. Parrocel and Nic. Mignard, who are also well represented
in the chapels of the Pe'nitents Blancs (PI. C,3), Penitents Oris
(PI. D, 4), and Pf'nitents Noir», to the E. of the prison (PI. D,E, 2).
— .John Stuart Mill, who died at Avignon in 1873, is buried in a
cemetery to the E. of the town.
An interesting excursion may be made to" Villeneuve-les- Avignon
(p. 391; omnibus 15 c.) in '/j hr. from the Hotel de Ville.
From Avignon to Vaiiclii.fe, Aix, Apt, etc., see R. 62.
From Avionon to Carpentras (Mont-Vento\ix), I61/2 M., railway in
111/3 hr. (fares 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 80 c). The branch-lin« diverges from
the Lyons railway at (6 M.) Sorguts (p. 414). — 13 M. Monteux (3700 inhab.),
on the Au/.on, has the ruins of a papal chateau. — 1GVl> M. Carpentras
(Hotel (VOrient; de rUnivers), a manufacturing town of 9685 inhab., is the
ancient Carpenlorarte. The avenue, to the right from the station, leads to
the nStel-Dieii ^ founded in the 18th cent, by Bishop Dom Malachif d'ln-
to Marseilles. TAKASCON. V. liovte 61. 419
guiinbert , whose bronze statue stands in I'ront of it. Close by is tlie
"kglise St. Siffrein, the former cathedral (1505-1519), with some interesting
works of art. Beside it is the old bishops' palace, now the Palais de
Justice, in the court of which is a small Roman Triumphal Arch, perhaps
contemporary with the arch at Orange, and similarly decorated with
trophies and chained captives, but without frieze or attic. — Farther on
is an ancient Town-Gate, a tower 120 ft. high. — Carpentras has a small
Museum (open daily 9-12, and 2-4 or 5, except Wed. and holidays), a rich
Librarii, and a ixwii Aqueduct (18th cent.). — Diligence hence to (26i/o M.)
Xyons (p. 412) via (161/.. M.) Vaison (p. 413) ; and to (lOl/.j M.) Malaucene (p.413).
Kont Ventoux (6270 ft.) is now usually ascended from Ste. Colombe
(Inn), 111/2 M. froni Carpentras via (9i/.j M.) the little town oi Bhloin
(Hotel du afont- Ventoux). A road ascends to (11 M.) the summit. Carriage
for 4 pers. from Carpentras, 40 fr. ; omnibus to Be'doin, 1 fr. ; carriage for
2 pers. thence to the suniuiit, 12 fr. — This mountain, one of the last
ramilications of the Alps on the S.W., forms a widely conspicuous isolated
pyramid, and aft'ords a very fine panorama. As its name indicates, it
is subject to very violent winds. — The barren summit is snow-capped
fur the greater part of the year, and the sides, once well-wooded, have
long been sterile and furrowed with ravines, but replanting has now been
undertaken by the government. Bee-keeping tlourislies on the mountain
during the hot season. On the top are an Observatory, a small Hotel, and
a Chapel, visited by pilgrims on Sept. 14.
From Avignon to Orgon, 21 M., local branch-line, via (4i/.> %.) Barben-
tane (see below) (12 M.) Chateau -Renard (.5934 inhab.) , 14 M. Nores, birth-
place of Petrarch's Laura, and(18M.) Plan-d' Orgon. 21 51. Orgon, see p. 426.
Beyond Avignon the Marseilles line crosses the Durance, near
its eonfluence with the Rhone. 146*/2 M- Barhentnne: the town, on
a rock l'^ M- to the right, has a flue 14th cent, tower (branch-line
to Orgon, see above). 150 M. Grareso)i.
156"o M. Tarascon (Buffit ; Hotel des Empereitrs), a quiet town
of 9314 inhab.. lies on the left bank of the Rhone, opposite Beaucaire
(p. 389), with which it is connected by a bridge and a loop-line.
Tarascon is said to derive its name from a monster called Tarasqne
who ravaged the country in the 1st cent, of our era and from whom
it was delivered by St. Martha. A very popular fete was till recently
held in commemoration of this event. The Church of St. Martha.
founded in the 12th and rebuilt in the 14-1 5th cent., contains seven
paintings by Vien (scenes from the life of St. Martha; beginning in
the right aisle); seven by P. Parrocel; a St. Francis of Assisi, b> C.
Vanloo, in the 4th chapel to the right; a Virgin by Ann. Carracci in
the 6th, etc. The remarkable Gothic Castle of the 14-15th cent, has
a highly interesting interior, but it is now used as a prison, and per-
mission to visit it must be obtained at the "mairie'. King Rene of
An.jou, Count of Provence (see p. 427), completed this castle and
resided there.
From Tarascon to Ximes, see p. 389; branch to (17 M.) Remotilins (p. 392).
From Tarascon to St. Remy (Orgon), 91/^ M. , railway in ■^O-oS min.
(fares 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 25, 90 c). The trains start from a local station, near
the other. The line skirts to the N. the little mountain chain of the
Alpines, in which are the stone quarries worked by the Romans for the
buildings at Aries: then it passes Les Baux (p. 423j. 9I/.2 M. St, Kemy
(Cheval-Blanc) , an unimportant town of 5813 inhab. , lies about li '4 M. to
the N. of two important Roman monuments, relics of the town of Olanvm
Livii, destroved bv the Visigoths in 480. One of these is a much injured
27*
420 V. Route 61. ARLES. From Lyons
Triumphal Arcli, whieh, though not large and with ^llt one an;h, is well-
proportioned and still shows line remains of ornamentation and sculptures,
representing captives. It dates from the 1st or '2nd cent, of our era. The
other building, situated close by. is a '*Mausolenin, called the Tomb of the
Jitlii, from the inscription on the architrave. Pyramidal in form, it is
nearly 60 ft. in height, and consists of three stories: a sort of square base,
with bas-reliefs at the top: a rich arrangement of porticos with fluted
half-columns; lastly a small round temple with ten fluted Corinthian co-
lumns, in which are two draped statues, with modern heads. According
to some this graceful structure dates from the time of Caesar (1st cent.
B. C), others assign it a less remote date. — A road leads to the S. of St.
Kemy to (51/2 ^I) ^«^ ^""-^ (P- '^23), in the Alpines (carr. 10 fr.; to Aries,
halting at Les Baux, 20 fr.). — Beyond St. Remy the country is uninter-
esting. At (181/2 M.) Plan-tV Organ, we join the linelfrom Barbeiitane (p. 419).
The Marseilles railway now skirts the bank of the Rhone, with
the Alpines on the left (see above). loO'^ ^I- Se'gonnaux. To the
left are the ruins of Mont-Major (p. 423). to the right is the (164';.> M).
town of Aries (Bufl'et, poor).
Aries {Hotel, du Forum, du Xord, both in the Place du Forum,
I'l.a, b; C, 3) is a town of 23.490 inhab. on the left bank of the Rhone,
near the point where it bifurcates and forms the Camargue delta
(p. 423). On the right bank is the suburb of Trinquetaille. connected
with the town by an iron bridge.
Aries, the Arelate of the ancients, the origin of which is doubtful, w-as a,
rival of Marseilles under Julius Csesar. It soon became embellished with
numerous buildings and was called 'the Gallic Rome'. Constantine often
resided here and connected the commercial quarters of the right bank, now
Trinquetaille, with the other side by a stone bridge. Christianity is said
to have been introduced (here by Trophimus. a disciple of St. Paul. Under
Honorius the prefect of Gallia resided at Aries. The town remained in-
dependent for some time after the barbaric invasions, then wa.s the cap-
ital of a kingdom (879), on the decay of which it became a republic (1150-
1251). Finally submitting to Charles d'Anjou, Count of Provence, it thence-
forward shared the fate of that province which was annexed to France
in 1482. Aries is a port of some importance, although 27 31. from the mouth
of the Rhone. — The women of Aries are famed for their good looks and
tasteful costumes.
Aries still retains a part of its Roman Ramparts, on the N., and
K. It is surrounded by fine boulevards- but in the interior, the streets
are narrow, tortuous, and badly paved.
At the point where the street leading direct to the town from the
station forks is the Fontaine Pichot , erected in 1887 to Am^de'e
Pichot (1796-1877), the author, a native of Aries.
Farther on, to the left, is the *Amphitheatre {Les Arenes; PI. E, 3),
the largest of the kind extant in France, but not in such good preser-
vation asthatof Nimes(p. 396). It is about 500 yds. in circumference;
the longer axis is 150 yds., the shorter 116 yds. long; the arena 75 yds,
long and 43 yds. wide. This arena, which probably dates from the
1st or 2nd (;ent. of our era. possessed live corridors and forty-three
tiers of seats, holding 26,000 spectators. The two stories of 60 arches,
the lower being Doric, the upper Corinthian, present a most imposing
aspect. The entrance is on the N. side.
The Interior was formerly occupied by a number of dwellings tenanted
- -^V- — - t N a g a-5^ .s&C«4tr *-^'n!!r5A-Vj.Lj^; ;_
to Marseilles. ARLES. V. h'onle fil. 421
liy poor families, removed in 1825-30. After the Roman period the amphi-
theatre was employed by tlie Goths, then by the Saracens, -and again by
Charles Martel (who expelled the latter in 739). as a .stronghold, threi-
of the four towers of which are still .standing. A staircase of 103 steps
ascends the W. tower, which commands a pleasing survey of the neigli-
bourhood. Bloodless bull-fights are now occasionally e.xbibited here.
The Theatre (PI. D. 3) , to the right beyond the amphitheatre, a
picturesque ruin, is in a very dilapidated condition. It is said to
have been begun under Augustus, though not finished till the ord
<-eutury. The most perfect part is the stage-wall, which according
to the ancient arrangement had three doors. In front of it was a co-
limnade. of which two columns, one of African, the other of Carrara
marble, are still standing. This theatre was richly decorated, and
numerous works of art found here are preserved in the Museiitn
(see below). Tlie Venus of Aries, in the Louvre at Paris, was also
discovered here. The dimensions of the building when perfect were
very extensive (breadth from N. to S. BST'/jft.), and the effect it
produces is extremely striking. — ■ Beyond the theatre is a Public
Garden,
The street which skirts the stage of the tlieatre leads to the Flare
rhhi /f/p'(6//9»i? (PI. D. 3). where there are the other principal sights.
In the centre is a Roman Obelisk, without hieroglyphics, belonging
originally to an ancient circus, at the .S.W. extremity of the town
(Pl..\.4). The base is a modern fountain, with four bronze lions
by Dantaii (1829). The total height of the monument is 67 ft., that
of the obelisk itself 49 ft.
The * Cathedral of St. Trophimus (PI. D, 3). to the E., is a very
ancient building, founded, it is said . on the ruins of the Koman
pr;etorium and consecrated in 606. It has. however, been several
times repaired, and the choir was added in 1430: while it has been
recently restored. The Romanesque *Portal of the 12th cent, is
supported by six columns resting upon lions, between which are
saints and scriptural subjects; above it, Christ as Judge of the world.
The iNTEniOR contains little to interest tlie visitor, with the ex-
ception of several sarcophagi and pictures. — On the S. side (entered
from the sacristy) are the *Cloisters. with rouiul and pointed arches
and remarkable capitals, dating from various epochs. The N. side
is in the semi-antique style of the Carlovingian period (9th cent.),
the E. side dates from 1221 . the AV. side (the most beautiful) from
13.'J9. and the S. side from the 16th century.
The ^Museum {Miise'e Lapidaire : PLC. D.3), occupying an an-
cient church opposite St. Trophimus. is particularly rich in antique
and Christian sarcophagi, in marble and ornamented with bas-reliefs,
brought from the Aliscamps (p. 422). It is open to the public on
Sun., but may be visited on otlier days also.
In the middle of the nave are ancient sarcophagi, monumental co-
lumns, portions of friezes and very curious marble capital.?, fragments
of statues, leaden pipes from the Roman aqueduct. Towards the end.
In the right, is the Tuinh of Cornelia .Iaca?na , one of finest in the col-
422 V. Route 61. ARLES. From Lyons
lection. — In the choir an altar to Leda on whieli is a modern bust
(inscription), some little fragments, and small antiques, such as vases,
glass, bronzes, medals, jewels, terracottas. To the left, as we return,
a statue of the Persian goddess Mithras, a singular looking statue (head
wanting) with the signs of the Zodiac. In the 1st chapel is the original
pedestal of the obelisk (p. 422). Between this chapel and the next^
and opposite, on the other side, figures of dancing women (injured). 2nd
chapel : ancient tomb of the daughterof Chrysogonus, with heads of Medusa;
above , the Raising of Jairus's daughter. Betvreen this chapel and the
next, a colossal head of Augustus. 3rd chapel: pagan and Christian
sarcophagi or portions of them ; Stag-luint and boar-hunt, Roman mar-
riage. Pastoral scene. Healing the Sick of the Palsy. — On the other
side of the door, in the corner, an antique granite pillar, brought from
the port and furrowed by the hawsers of vessels; it bears an inscription
in honour of the Emp. Constantine. Statue of Medea. 1st Chapel, Olive
Harvest, from an ancient sarcophagus. 'Sd chapel, the finest Christian
sarcophagi: Christ's Miracles, Apostles, Good Shepherd, Washing the
Disciples' feet, and Pilate washing his hands, Jesus with his Apostles
and the Holy Women; Tomb of Concordus, a priest (portico); Passage
of the Red Sea. 4th chapel, other interesting Christian tombs: Evan-
gelists and Apostles; Moses; medallions representing the deceased. Scenes
from the lives of Susannah and Jonah. 5th chapel: sarcophagus with
the Miracle of the loaves, cover of St. Hilary's tomb; fine altar of Apollo,
which in 1822 was still in front of the stage of the ancient theatre; above,
Apollo and the Muses. To the left of the choir, a fine female head, said
to be Livia, upon an altar to the Bona Dea.
The Hotel de Ville (PI.D,3), close to the cathedral, dates from
1673-1675, except the Clock Tower and the hronze figure of Mars
which surmounts it, which are of the middle of the 16th century.
The arch of the ■vestibule is curious.
The Place du Forum (PLC, D,3), a few miu. to the left behind
the Hotel de Ville , is the ancient Roman forum , and is still tlie
centre of the town, with the hotels and the principal caf^s. To the
left of the Hotel du Nord are two antique columns witli the remains
of a pediment, said to have belonged to another building.
The Palace of Constantine (P1.D,2), near the Rhone, is shut
in by houses on the N., but may be seen from the quay. It is said
to have extended from the forum to the river, and was occupied by
tlie rulers of the country till the 13th century. — In the former
(hand-Prleure' (PI. D, 2), close by, is the Muse'e Re'attu , a small
picture gallery (many copies).
The remaining antiquities in the town are unimportant, but a
visit should be paid to the Aliscamps, situated beyond the S. boule-
vards, where tliere are large caf^s, near the .Jardin Public (p. 421).
The Aliscamps or Champs- Elyae'es (c. PI. F, 4), the ancient Roman
linrying-grountl, were consecrated for Christian sepulture by St. Tro-
phimiis. In the Middle Ages this cemetery enjoyed such celebrity that
bodies were brought to it from great distances, and Dante mentions
it in his Inferno (IX, 112). Later it was neglected, the monuments
destroyed and scattered, and the ground parcelled out. The remaining
sarcophagi have, however, lately been collected, and placed along
a promenade called the Alle'e des Tombeau.r. They are numerous,
but unornamented , the most interesting being now in the museum
tij Maiseilles. ST. GILLES. V. Route 61. 423
atid the cathedral. The monument near the middle, to the right,
beyond a little chapel, was erected in honour of magistrates who
fell victims to the plague in 1721. At the farther end are the ruins
of the Church of St. Huiioiat , rebuilt in the 11th cent., in the
Romanesque style, and left unfinished. It has a Romanesque octa-
gonal tower.
From Arle.s to Saloj; (Mont Major ; Les Bans), 29 M., railway in 11 4-
13/4 hr. (fares 5 fr. 55, 4 fr. 15, 3 fr. 5 c). — This branch-line runs to the
S. of the Alpines. — 31/0 31. Mont-Major. Above tlie station rises a rock
crowned l»y tlie ruins of the (a.nM\is Abbey of Mont-Major, founded in the
Gth. but rebuilt in the ll-13th centuries. The large square Toxcer , 85 ft.
high (fine view), the Church and its Cloister are especially worthy of notice.
Close by is the curious Chapel of Ste. Croix., and near the tower, a Sub-
terranean Chapel, both of the 11th century. — 51/2 31. Fontvieille, a little
i.iwn with important stone quarries. — 9 31. Paradou , 3 M. to the S. of
l.es Baux. — Les Baux (Hotel), with less than 400 inhab. , was in the
3Iiddle Ages a flourishing town with ten times as many, and was the
capital of one of the most powerful countships in Provence. The town
owes its cliief interest to the fact that its huge Castle, now in ruins, and
many of the houses are hewn out of the rock on which they stand, so
that walls, towers, and even whole buildings are actual monoliths, holl-
owed out, and quite independent of each other. The town retains
part of its Ramparts, also hewn out of the rock; and some of its houses
have fine 15th cent, and Renaissance facades. There is a fine view
from the hill above the castle. — St. Remy (p. 419) lies Si/.j BI. to the
N. of Les Bau.x. — 10i/.> 31. Mattssane , the ne.xt station, is about 2i/i 31.
from Les Baux. — 14 31! Mouriis ; 19 31. Aureille. From (24 3L) Eyguieres
(2678 inhab.) , a branch-line runs to Lamanon (p. 426). We cross the
Canal de Craponne and the Canal des Alpines. — 29 31. Salon (p. 426).
Fbom Arles to Lvhel (Montpellier), 28 3L, railway in 11/3-13/., hr. (fares
5 fr. 55, 4 fr. 15 c, 3 fr.). — This line crosses the Grand- Rhone , or prin-
cipal arm ot the river, and traverses the N. extremity of the He de la
i'ainargue, the llat delta of the esttiary of the Rhone, which is continual-
ly being added to by the alhivial deposits of the main arm. Its total
area isabout 30()sq. li., but a considerable proportion is occupied by niarslies
and lagoons [Elang de Vaccar^s, the largest, 10 sq. 31.) and by vast arid
]ilains. Drainage and reclamation are actively carried on, and some parts
are planted with vines, which, however, produce wine of poor quality,
liesi adapted for blending with Spanish wines. There are also rich
jiastures, over which roam (locks and herds of half-wild sheep, cattle,
and horses. — T'/i 3L La Camargue. We cross the I'etit-Rhone and the Canal
de Beaucaire (p. 389).
11 3L St. Gilles (Hotel du Midi), a squalid town of 5500 inhab., owes
its origin to an abbey founded by St. /Kgidius (St. Gilles). Pope Clement IV.
(d. 1268) was born here. The Church has a 12th cent. *Portal, most lavishly
decorated with marble and .stone bas-reliefs, of great delicacy but un-
fortunately much mutilated. This portal recalls in its arrangement and
style the portal of St. Trophimus at Aries, but it is even richer and has
three bays. The rest of the church was only partly built after tlie ori-
ginal plan and style. The crypt is partly of the 12th cent.; and the sa-
cristy dates from the original chvirch. Behind the church is a very skil-
fully constructed spiral staircase, called the Vis de St. Gilles, and in the
neighbourhood is a Romanesque House, recently restored.
18 3L Gallician. 20 31. Le Cailar^ also on the line from Nimes to Aigues-
Jlortes (p. 400), which coincides with ours as far as the next station. At
(24 31.) Aimargues we cross the Vidourle. 26 3L Marsillargues. 23 M.
I.untl (p. 401).
From Arles to St. Louis-Dt-RHONE, 251/2 31., railway in U 3-I2/3 br.
(fares 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 75. 2 fr. 80 c). — This line crosses the Canal de Bouc,
and follows the left bank of the Grand-Rhone through a marshy plain,
424 V. Iluute (,h PORT-DE-BOUC.
between the Camargue (p. 423) and the Crau (see below). Five small
stations are passed. To the left are the Salines de Giraud (salt-wnrks).
251/2 M. St. Louis -du- Rhone (Gr.-H6t. de St. Louis), a small place nf
recent origin, with a good harbour at the mouth of the Rhone, hampered
by the diflicuUy of navigating the lower course of the river. The Rhone
is said to deposit yearly more than 22 million cubic yds. of alluvium at its
mouth. A tower, built in 1737 on the sea-shore, is now 41/0 M. inland,
and four signal-towers along the course of the river have similarly been
rendered useless since the time of the Romans.
Beyond Aries the railway is carried over mar.sliy ground b\ a
viaduct V2 M. long, and turns to the E. Beyond (170 M.) Raphefe,
we enter the Plaine de la Crau (Celt, 'craigh'). the Campus Lapi-
deus or Crnvus of the ancients. This plain, about 75 sq. M. in area,
bounded by the Rhone on the W., by the Alpines on the N.. by lagoons
on the E., and by the sea on the S., is covered with shingle brought
down by the Rhone, no doubt from the glaciers of the Alps. Tt
has been supposed that it was once a bay of the Mediterranean
into which the Durance flowed. According to the myth, however.
La Crau is said to owe its origin to a shower of stones sent by .lu-
piter to destroy Albion and thus aid Hercules, who had exhausted
his arrows in vain conflict against the giant. This plain is sterile,
except where it is crossed by irrigation-canals. The line is sheltered
from the Mistral (p. 41:}) by cypress-trees. 174 M. 8^ Martin-de-
Crau; 181 M. Enfressen : 184 M. Miranias. Line to Cavaillon see p. 426.
From JIiramas to Port-de-Bovc (Martigties), 16 M.. railwav in I1/4 hr.
(fares 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 55 c). 6 M. Istres ('Ostrea), a town with 3750
inhab., to the S. of the Etang de V Olivier, near the Etang de Berre (see
below) and the mouths of two irrigation-canals entering this lagoon. It
has large soda-works. 91/2 M. Levaldzic, on the Etang de Levalduc. 13 M.
Eos, 2 M. to the W., near the Etang de V Estomac (a corniption of the Greek
'stoma', mouth), owes its name, like the neighbouring gulf, to the 'Fossae
Marianae', a canal dug in B.C. 104 by the Roman legions \inder Marius, who
had come to Gaul on a campaign asainst the Germans. It connected the
lagoons to the W. with one another. 16 M. Port-de-Bouc (TIdiel du Commerce),
a village with a small harbour at the end of the Bouc and Aries Canal and
the Elang de Caronte by which the Etang de Berre communicates with the
Jlediterranean. Afartigues (p. 425) is 41/2 M. to the E. of Port-de-Bouc.
188 M. St. Chamas lies near the N.W. end of the Etang de Bene,
to the right, a salt lake, 13 V2 M- long, 4-8'/2 M. wide, with an area
of 58 sq. M. . which it has been proposed to convert into a naval
harbour, by enlarging the channel from the Etang de Caronte (see
above). St. Chamas has a large powder-mill. About ^UM. to the
S.E. the river Touloubre is spanned by the fine Pont Flaviex. an
ancient bridge, with a small Corinthian triumphal arch at each end.
The railway crosses this river by a flue viaduct. - 197'/2 M. Berre:
tlic little town is IV4 M. from the station. 201'/2 M. Bognac{B\\{{<>t).
From Rognac to Aix, 16 M., railway in I-I1/4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 1.5, 2 fr. 40,
1 fr. 75 c). — 41/2 "• yelau.r. 71/2 J'- iioqiiefavour, where there is a marvel
of modern architecture, the famous *Aqueduct of Roquefavour, 430 vds. long
and 270 ft. high, i. e. longer and higher than 'the Pont du Gard (p. .392),
which it resembles, without, however, being as fine. It forms part of a
canal, 57 M. long, for the cimveyance of water from tlie Purance for tlif
supply of Marseilles and its neighbourhood, and even for irrigation. .\mon^
CAVAILLON. T'. Eonfe 6'2. 42:')
the many Other engineerina works on this canal is a tunnel, 21/2 M. long. The
railway passes beneath the aqueduct. IIV2 M. Les Afilles. 16 31. Aix (p. 427).
Berre thou appears, upon a strip of land, and farther on are salt-
works and a soda-factory. — Beyond (204 M.) Vitrolles the railway
quits the Etang de Berre. 207 M. Pas-des-Lanciers.
FRf>M Pas-des-La>!ciers TO Martigues. 111/0 M., railway in55min.(fare.s
2 fr. 10. I fr. 60. 1 fr. 15 c.1. 3i/o M. Marignane. To the right is the Etang
dp Berre fp. 424). — II1/2 JI. Uartigues (HoteU), a decayed town CMari-
tima") of 6494 inhab., lormerly the capital of a principality, at the .junction
of the Berre and Caronte lagoons (p. 424). having a port connected by the
latter with Buuc (p. 424). Dock-yards: large salt-works.
Beyond Pas-de-Lanciers we pass through the Tunnel dela Nerte,
nearly 3 M. long (5-6 min.^; then l)etween wild rocks. We presently
obtain a fine glimpse of the Jlediterranean and the gulf of Marseilles,
with the rocky islands of Pomegue, Uatonneau. and If. After (210 M.)
L' Estnqne we pass the suburban stations Se'on-Sf. Henri, Se'on-
Sf. .4«rZre'(beyond which is another tunnel of ',4M.), Lea Aygnladea,
LcCanef.M)dSf. Bnrfhe'lemy. Numerous country-houses are seen, and
we have before us a southern landscape surrounded by mountains,
with the most important harbour of France in the foreground.
218 M. Marseilles (p. 430).
62. From Avignon to Aix (Marseilles).
B7V-> M. Railway iu 4i/.t hrs. (fares 13 I'r. 50, 10 fr. 15, 7 fr. 35 c). —
From Ai.\ to Marfeilles , 18 M. in l-ll/.jhr. (fares 3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 70, 1 tr.
95c.). Best views at first to the left, but beyond Cavaillon to the right.
Avignon, see p. 414. — This line runs to the E. via(3i', M.)
Montfavet, (5' ^ M.) Morieres, (8 M.) St. Saturnin, and (10 M.)
Gndagne. On a hill to the left is the ruined Chateau de Touzon.
— 11 '/j M. Thor (3054 inhab.). on the Sorgue, with a 12th cent. Ro-
manesque church. — 15 .M. L'lsle-sur-Sorgue {Hotel de Petrarque-
et-Lnure: >it. Martin), with 6317 iiiliab.. lias a 17th cent, church,
richly clecorated with paintings and sculptures.
The 'Fontaine de Vaucluse, ininidrtali/.ed l)y Petrarch, is situated
about 51 .jM. to the E., 1,2 M. from the village of VaiicUife ('Vallis clausa' :
Hotel de I.aure). wliither omnibuses ply on the arrival of the trains (li/o fr.
there and hack). The spring, ^cliiare. fresclie , e dolci acque', is the
source of the Sorgue and is readied by a path on the right bank. It
rises in a gorge, surrounded by perpendicular rocks, 650ft. high, where
it gushes forth from a cavern (25-30 ft. wide), accessible when the
water is less abundant, at which time the spring issues lower down in
numerous streamlets. The spring owes its origin to the filtration of
water in the limestone plateau which e.xtends E. as far as the valley
of the Durance. Its volume varies from 1300 to 26,000 gallons per second
and lower down it is used in working a great number of factories. Petrarch
retired to the solitude of this spot in 1337 and composed the greater
number of his poems here. His house was where the paper-mill nuw
stands, beside the village. The ruins nearer the spring, to the right,
are those of the chateau of his friend Cardinal de Cabassole , Bishop of
Cavaillon.
20»/2M- C&v&illon (Buffet: Hotel Arnaud). with 9144 inhab.,
is the Cabellio of the Rpmans, and has the remains of an ancient
Triumphal Arch and a 12-13th cent. Cathedral.
Frdm Cavaili.on to Apt, 20 1M., railway in l-lVohr. (fares 3 fr. 95,
426 V. Route 63. MANOSQUE. From GrenoUe
2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 10 c.)- — This branch -line ascends the valley of the
Coulon to the N.E. At (11 M.) Goult is the pilgrim-resort of Notre-Dame-
des-Lumieres. — 13 W. Bonnieux. The little town, 3 M. to the S., retains
its mediseval fortifications and has a 12th cent, church. About halfway
Vietween this and the next station the Coulon is crossed by the Pont Julien,
a well-preserved Roman bridge, which is perhaps even older than the
time of Julian. — 171/2 M. le Chene. — 20 JI. Apt (Hotel du Louvre), with
.'3743 inhab. , on the Coulon, is the Apta Julia of the ancients. The Cathe-
dral, dating from the 10-llth cent., though afterwards enlarged and alter-
ed, contains various interesting works of art, and has an 11th cent, crj-pt.
From Cavaii.i,on to Miramas (Maratillen), 22V'> JI. , railway in 1I/4-
2;V4 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 40 c). — Beyond (21/2 M.) Cheval-
Blane (see below) the line turns to the S. , and crosses the Durance. —
.^I'rtM. Orgon (Hotels), a small town with a ruined castle, and remains
of fortifications. Lines to Barbentane and Tarascon, see pp. 414, 419. —
At (IO1/2 M.) Lamanon we join the line from Aries to Salon (p. 423). —
15 M. Salon (Hotel des N^gociants), with 8600 inhab. , was the birthplace
(if Adam de Craponne (1519-1559), the engineer who constructed the first
irrigation-canals in the Crau (p. 424). .4 monument has been erected to
him. The Church of Si. Lawrence, an ancient collegiate chapel of the
14th cent., contains the tomb of Is'^ostradamus , the celebrated astrologer
(d. 1566). — About 31/.2 M. to the S.E. is London, near which is a Ronian
camp surrounded by walls with towers. — Line to Aries, see p. 423. —
221/., M. Mivamas (p. 424).
The main line now approaches the Durance, and ascends its
right bank. 23 M. Cheval-Blanc. Line to Miramas, see above. To
the right, on the heights, are two ruined castles. — 30 M. Merindol.
About 2 M. to the W. is the highly picturesque Gorge du Regalon,
parts of which are caiions or clefts, 300 ft. deep, and barely wide eno\igh
to permit a passage.
37 M. Lauris. — 40'/2 M- Cadenef, a little town where ancient
relics have been discovered. iiM. VlUelaure; 48 M. Pertuis (Buffet).
For this town and continuation of the Journey, see p. 427.
63. From Grenoble (Lyons) to Marseilles.
189 JI. Railway in 11-12 hrs. (fares 37 fr. 65, 28 fr. 25, 20 fr. 75 c.). —
To Aix, 171 JI., in 9V2-IOV4 hrs. (lares 34 fr. 5, 25 fr. 50, 18 fr. 80 c).
Grenoble, see p. 321. To {108'; « M.) St. Auban, see RR. 51b, 54.
\\'e leave the line to Digne on the left and continue to descend
the left bank of the Durance. On the opposite bank are curiously
shaped limestone rocks, called the Cnpucins des Me'es (visited from
the next station), and the old village of Les 3/ ec« (diligence). 112'/2M.
Pcumis; 1 17'/2 M. Lurs. From (120'/2 M.) Lu Brillanne, a diligence
})lies to (7V2 M-) Forrnhpiier (Lardeyret; Pascal), with 3000 inhab.,
till- ancient Forum Calcarium, in the Basses Alpes. — 125 M. \'olr.
129'/2 M. Manosque (Hotel Pascal), a commercial town with
r)456 inhab., retains some remains of its old fortifications, including
the Porte Saunnrc (14th cent.), next the station, and the Porte Sou-
heyran. The Church of St. Sauveur has a fine iron spire; and in
:Vo/cc-/>rtTOeisastatueof the Virgin, dating from the 10-llth century.
.\ diligence (2 fr.) plies hence to (2 hrs.) Or^oulz, on the Verdon, with
a 13th cent. Caftle built l>y the Templars, an(\ a, Hath- /C.^iablisliment. In the
neiehbourhood are some caverns, formerlv inhabited. — Another vehicle
(4 fr.) plies in 41/4 hrs. to (131 A. Ji.) Riez (Hdtel des Alpes), the Albece Rei-
orum of the Romans, with intere.sting Roman remains. — About 81 o JI.
to Marseilles. AIX. V. Route 63. 427
farther in the same direction is Moustiers-Ste, Marie (Ilvtel Uu ifont-Couronne),
noted for its faience in the 17-lSth cent., situated at the foot of lofty rocks
between which a gilded star is suspended by means of an iron chain.
132. Ste. Tulle; 134' ^ M. Corbilres. We approach the Durance
once more. 141 M. Mimbeau, with the chateau of the Mirabeau
family. A diligence {^'/j fr.) plies hence to (2 hr.s.) Gr^oulx (see
above). We cross the Durance. — lol'/jM. Pertuis (Buffet; Hotel
(hi Cours), with 5484 inhab., is the Junction for the line to Avignon
via Cavaillon (R. 62). It has two ancient towers, a tasteful modern
fountain, and a church with some interesting sculptures. — We re-
cross the Durance. 155 M. Meyrnrgues, with an interesting chateaiu
From 3Ieyrai;gces to Grasse. 100 SI. This narrow-gauge line runs via
(I21/2 M.) Kiaris, (18 JI.) Esparron. (27 31.) BarjoU, with 2B63 inhab., (42 M.)
tiaUrnes^ with 2^14 inhab., and (51 31.) Lorgiies, with 3762 inhab. — 61 31.
Draguignan, see p. 44.5. — Farther on, the stations are unimportant (the
principal being Callas, Fayevce , and Callian), but the country traversed
is highly picturesque. Near Grasse, the Siagne is crossed by a viaduct
210 ft. high. — 100 M. Graue, see p. 450.
157 M. Reclavier. Near the Montagne Ste. Victoire ('Mons Vic-
toriae' ; 3310 ft.), to the left, Marius defeated the Teutons in B. C. 102.
162'/2M. Venelles; to the left are seen the arches of the Ca)ial d'Alv
or Canal du Verdon. — 1641,2 M. Fuy-Kicard; 166 M. La Calade,
before a tunnel nearly '/j M. long.
171 M. Aix. — Hotels. Negre-Coste, Cours 3Iirabeau, first class ;*5Ille
XoiRE, Rue La Cepede, R. & A. 21/2, D, 3 fr. ; du Loivre, Rue de la Slasse;
pu Palais, Il\ie Chastel: +des Baixs, at the Bath-Estab., R. 2. dej. & D. 5 fr,
— Buffet at the station. — Ca/H^ in the Cours 3nraheau. — Baths at the
Kstab., from 1 fr. — The churches are usually closed from 12-3 p. m.
Aix, with 29,057 inhab., the former capital of Pruvence, is the
seat of an archbishop, and contains a university academy, an Ecole
des Art et Metiers, etc.
Ai.>£ is the Aquae Sextiae of the Romans, their oldest colony in Gaul,
and owed its name jointly to its thermal waters (see below) and the Consul
Se.xtins Calvinus , by whom it was colonized B.C. 123. In 102 Marius
ilefeated the Germans in the neighbouring plains (see above). Scarcely
any remains are now left of the monuments with which Aix was embel-
lished before the invasions of the barbarians. Recovering slowly from
the latter it became the capital of Provence, with an elegant and literary
court speaking a polished Provencal tongue. It was anne.xed to the crown
in 14S1 , and in lo36 fell into the power of Charles V., who proclaimed
himself king of .\rles and Provence, but was obliged to evacuate it two
months later. .\i\ also sull'ered from the Religious disturbances of the
16th and even 18tli century. It is noted for its olive-oil.
The street to the left at the fork of the road near the station leads
to the Place de la Kotonde, in which is the line Fontaine de la Ro-
tiinde, decorated with statues of Justice, by llamus, Agriculture, by
Chabaud, and the Arts, by Ferrat. Here, between statues of Industry
and Science, by Trupheme, begins the Cours Mirabeau, a magni-
ficent promena<le , with three other fountains, the second having
mineral water. The third is surmounted by a marble statue, by David
dWngers, of Ren r of Anjou, the 'boii roi' and friend of the trouba-
dours, who was Duke of Lorraine, King of Naples, and Count of Pro-
vence (1408-1480).
428 V. Iluuie 63. AIX. From. Grenoble
The Rne Thiers, farther on, to the left, leads to the modern Palais
de Justice, occupying the site of the palace of the counts of Provence.
■In front are statues, by Ramus, of Portal is and Count Simeon , Pro-
vencal lawyers who took part in the compilation of the Code Civil.
A little farther to the right is a Fountain with an obelisk, and me-
■dallions of C. Sextius Calvinus (p. 427), Charles III., last sovereign
■count of Provence, Louis XV., and Louis XYIIL, last titulary count.
Beside it stands the fine Church of La Madeleine, of 1703, with
^ new facade in the Renaissance style. Among its numerous ancient
pictures are an Annunciation attributed to Diirer, and several paint-
ings by J. B. Vanloo of Aix, etc. The street to the right of the church,
leads to the well-equipped Ecole des Arts et Metiers (300 students).
Beside it are the Petit Se'minaire and the Roman Catholic College.
and, to the left of the Cours St. Louis, the public Jardin Eambot.
Returning to the Palais de Justice, we pass to the right of the
prison, then follow the Rue des Marchands to the left, and skirt the
Corn Market, to the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville.
The Hotel de Yille dates from the 17th cent., the tower from
1505. In the court is a statue, by Trupheme. of Mirabean, and on
the staircase one of Marshal Villars, governor of Provence, by
C'oustou. The Library, founded in the 18th cent, by the Marquis
de M^janes, contains about 170.000vols. and 1190 MSS., including
King Rent's prayer-book, illuminated by himself, and a missal of
1422. Visitors are admitted daily except Sun. and Mon. 9-11 and 2-5
in summer; 1-4 and 8-10 in winter. Closed vVug. 15th to Oct. 15tli.
The Rue de la Grande-Horloge leads hence to the *Cathet)Kai.
of St. Saureur. dating in its oldest part from the 11th cent., but
added to in the 13th (choir), 14th (tower and one aisle), and Kith
cent, (the other aisle). The *Doors (1504) of the curious portal are
protected by shutters, opened on application. The bas-reliefs re-
present Prophets and Sybils.
Interior. To the right, a Baptistery (6th cent.), with eight antique
columns, from a temple of Apollo which stood on this .site. In the nave
are two triptyeh.s (closed), one by an unknown artist, the other ('The
Kurning Bush, with King Rene, Queen Jeanne de Laval, and an Annun-
ciation), perhaps bv Van der Metre or by Ific. Frnment of Avignon. To
the left. Unbelief of St. Thomas, by L.' Finfnnvn: of Bruges (1013). In
the choir are some fine *Tapestries of 1511.
Adjoining the cathedral on the S. is a Romanesque Cloister,
and beside it is the Archbishop's Palace, both containing interest-
ing works of art.
The Thermal Establishment lies to the N.W. of the town, and
is reached from the cathedral by the street to the left of the Facultt^
de Droit, or from the Place de la Rotonde by the Boulevard de la
R^publique and the Cours Sextius. Only a few substructures now
remain of the Roman baths. The waters are not highly charged but
are remarkable for their heat (93-97" Fahr.).
In the Cours Sextius, to the right as we return from the Thermes,
is the Church of St. ,Tenn-Baptiste (17th cent.); and in the Rue
h, MaraeiUes. ST. MAXIMIN. V. Route 63. 429
Kspariat, leading from the Place de la Rotoude, is the Chinch of
the St. Esprit or of St. Jerdme (18th cent.), with a triptych (150-i)
attributed to Francia. Opposite is a tower of 1494.
Near the middle of the Cours Mirabeau is seen the Lyct'e, a huge
building finished in 1884. To the left, near the end of the Hue
Cardinale. is the 13th cent. Church of St. Jean-de- Malte, with a
lofty stone spire of the 14-15th centuries. In the left transept is
the fine *Tomb of .\iphonse II., Count of Provence (1209), recently
restored. The church also contains some good ancient Paintings,
mostly by unknown artists. — The adjoining building, the old
Ciiramandery of St. John, now contains the Mus^e.
The *Muxee. open to the public on Sun. and Thurs.. 12-4, and
to strangers on other days also, comprises antiquities, sculptures,
and paintings. Explanatory labels are attached to most of the ex-
hibits and there is a catalogue (4 fr.) of the antiquities, sculptures,
and curiosities, but not of the paintings. The last include a con-
siderable number of valuable ancient paintings, even among those
not attributed to special artists. — The Rue d'ltalie, a little beyond
the church, leads, to the left, to the Cours Mirabeau.
From Aix to Rognac (Aqueduct of Roquefavotir, Marseilles), see p. 424.
Beyond Aix the' Marseilles line traverses two viaducts and two
short tunnels. 175 M. Luynes. — ITT'/g M. Gnrdanne (Buffet;.
llotel-Caf^ True) is the centre of a coal-district.
Fkom Oahdauxe to Caknoules (line to Nice), 49 31., railway in 23/4 hrs.
(lares 9 fr. 70, 7 fr. 30. 5 fr. 30 c). — 121,2 M. Trets, a town of importance
under the Romans and in the Middle Ages, was sacked by the Saracens
in the 10th century. It retains some fortilications of the 12- 13th cent.,
and an old chateau. — Farther on, to the left, appears I'ourrieres ('Campi
I'utridi). the scene of the victory of Marius in B. C. 102 (p. 427). — 18 31.
J'liiiriieux, 5JI. from I'ourrieres (carr. ). A tunnel is passed.
23 .M. St. Mazimin <*IMel dii i'ar : de France), with 2751inhab., con-
tains the linest fJothic *('/i>(rc/i in Provence (13- 15th cent.), built on a
still more ancient crypt. The striking interior is liner than the exterior,
and contains a large *Reredos and 94 stalls of the end of the 17th cent.,
and some ancient paintings, including a 16th cent, altar-piece by ,\nt.
Bozen. In the crypt are four sarcophagi, perhaps of the 4th century.
In the sacristy is shewn the 'Cope of St. Louis of Anjou, bishop of Tou-
louse (d. 1297). — The .S7e. Bainiie , with the grotto to which St. Made-
leine retired to end her davs . is about 91/.2M. to the S.W. Omnibus to
Auriol (p. 438).
26V2 M. ToKrve.', with a fine old chateau. — .\t (35 M.) Brignoles
(/li'itel Fabre (le PiffanI), a town of 4927 inhab. , the Counts of Provence
bad a castle, which was plundered by Charles \'. — 49 W. Carnoiiles (p. 445).
The country is undulating, well-wooded, and fertile, especially
as we approach Marseilles. The chateau of (179 M.) Simiane has
a keep of the loth century. 181 M. Jiouc -la-MnUe; 184V2 M.
Scptemes, beyond which we cross the Marseilles Canal, which passes
tiirough a tunnel, 2M. long, onthe right. I87V/2M. S^.4»l/o/«e; then,
after a viaduct 100ft. high, (188'/2M.) Ste. Marthe-Toirr-Sninte,
with a modern tower 97 ft. high, supporting a statue of the Virgin
<if rW/j ft. Fine view of .Marseilles to the rigiit.
189 M. .Marseilles.
430
64. Marseilles.
Arrival. There are four stations at Marseilles, but the only one of im-
portance for tourists is the Qare St. Charles (PI. F, 2), with a Bujff'et (dear)
and a hotel (see below). The departure platform is to the right, as we
come from the town, not to the left, as is usual in large termini in France.
The other stations are the Gave dii Prado (P1.H,7), for the S.E. quarters,
served bj' a branch from La Blancarde (p. 438): the Gore Maritime (PI.
C, 1,2) and the Gare dtt Vieicr-Port (PI. B, C, 5), both serving the harbour. —
H tel Omnibuses, l/o-ll/o fr.
Hotels. At the station, ''Terminus Hotel (Pl.F, 2), a large building
erected by the railway company, R. 4-12 fr. — *(5r. -Hotel No.mlles (PI. c;
E, 41, R. from 3l/o, L. 1, A. 1, dej. 4, D. 6 fr. ; *Geand-H6tel nu Louvre
<fe DE LA Paix (PI. a: E,4), with 250 rooms and a lift, principal facade
facing the S. ; "''Gr. -Hotel de Marseille (Pl.b;F, 4), with lift, all three
in the Rue Noailles , and fitted up in the style of the great Parisian
hotels; DU Petit-Louvre (PI. d; E, 4), Rue Koaiiles 18, K. from 2, D. 4 fr.;
Hotel de l'Ukivers , de Castille & de Luxembourg (Pl.e:E, 5), Rue
St. Ferreol; ''Hotel dbs Colonies (PI. f;E,4), Rue Vaeon 15; Hotel
d'Orleans (PI. g; E, 4), same street 19, with restaurant; Hotel des Princes
(Pl.h;E,4), Place de la Bourse 12, unpretending; Hotel des Phockens
(Pl.i;E,4), Rue Thubaneau 4; Gr. -Hotel Beauveau (Pl.j;D,4), Rue
Beauveau 4, facing the sea, pens, from 8 fr. ; Gr. -Hotel de Geneve, Rue
des Templiers 3, near the harbour (P1.D,4); Gr. -Hotel de Bordeaux
& d'Oriest (Pl.k;E,3), Boulevard du Kord 11; Hotel de Rome (Pl.l;
E,4), Place St. Louis 7, patronised by the Roman Catholic clergy; ■Hot.
DES Negociants, Cours Belzunee 33 (P1.E,4), moderate.
Restaurants, Caf ^-Glacier , Place de la Bourse: Maison Dorie, Rue
Koaiiles 5, dej. 4, D. 5 fr., wine included; Restaurant des Fr ires- Proven -
Cau.r, Cours St. Louis 6, dej. 21/21 D- 3 fr., etc. — '■Bouillabaisse^ is a kind
of fish-soup, of which the praises have been sung by Thackeray. The
white wines usually drunk are Chablis, Graves, and Sduterne.
Cafds, the principal in the Rues Noailles and Cannebiere : ifaisnn
Doree (see above), de Marseille, de France, de la Cascade, du Commerce, de
VUnivers, Gr.-Cafi du Louvre, at the Hotel du Louvre; Cafe-Glacier, de la
Bourse, Place de la Bourse; Cafv Turc, at the foot of the Cannebiere; des
Benx-Mondes , Cours St. Louis; des Allees , Alle'es de Meilhan. — Bra-;-
sERiEs: Taverne Alsacienne, Allees de Meilhan 36; Brasserie Rationale,
Place Castellane 10; Brasserie de Munich, Rue Paradis 17.
Cabs.
Per drive by day
by night (12-6 a. m.) .
Per hour by day
» » by night
i
1 fr. 25 c.
2 . -
2 . 25
3 . -
1 horse (for 2 pers.) 2 horses (for4pers.)
1 fr. — c.
1 . 50 »
2 . - .
2 50 »
50 c. per drive extra when the cab is brought to the hirer's residence.
Trunks, .50 c. each. — Two -horse carr. to Notre-Dame-de - la -Garde
(p. 434), 5 fr.
Tramways intersect the town in various directions (comp. the Plan);
fares 10-40 c. — Omnibuses are numerous. To Kotre - Dame - de -la-Garde
from the Cours St. Louis (Pl.E, 4), every l/o hr., 75 c. up, 20 c. down.
Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Grignan 53 (PI. E, 5), and Place de la
Bourse (PI. E, 4). — Telephone (communicating with Lyons and Paris), at
the Bourse (li ^ and 3 fr. per 5 min.).
Steamboats to Chateau d' If (on Sun. and holidays; 75 and 50c.): to
Ajaccio, Bastia, and Cahi, see p. 460: to Algiers, Comp. Ge'n. Transatlantique,
daily at 12,30 p.m., Socie'te' Gen. des Transports Jlaritimes, Tues. and Sat.
at o p.m. , Comp. de Navigation Mixte, every Thurs. at 5 p.m. — For other
ports and full details see the Indicateur and the bills. Steam Ferry across
the harbour 5 c. — Small Boat across the harbour 10-20 c. each pers.; per
linur 1 fr., each addit. pers. 25 c. The taritl' should be asked for.
Physicians, Engli.sh-speaking. Dr. Pilatte, Rue Nicolas 17; Dr. Milsom,
Itue St. Jacques 15 (specialist for diseases of the ear, nose, and throat).
i'/Tli-i
fiifah^nt;!;
liA\iiil!Lll^
l:14f.000 ;
so lOO 200 300 400 "
Metres"
-c ( Iiaieau(
B o u 1 e V a x;^
History. MARSEILLES. V. Route 64. 431
Theatres. Grand- Theatre (PI. E,5), for operas and ballets; Gynmas--
(PI. F, 4), tragedies and comedies; VarUUs (Folies; PI. E, 4). — Cafds-
Concerta. Alcazar (PI. E, 3); Palais de Cristal, AUe'es de Jleillian 32.
Baths. liains des Alliies, Alices de Meilhan 64: Maures Haimnam,
Alices de Meilhan 14; Longchainp, Boul. Longchamp 26; Gr. Bains de Mar-
seille, Rue de la Republique 13; Bains Phocfens, Rue Paradis 17.
Sea-Baths, handsomely fitted up, in the Anse des Catalans (PI. A, 5, 6;
p. 435; tramway 10 c). Bains du lloucas- Blanc and Bains du Prado, some-
what mnre distant, on the Route de la Corniche (see the small Plan).
British Consul, CItarles Perceval, t'sq.. Rue St. .Jacques 36. — United
States Consul, C. Trail, Esq., Rue Breteuil 45.
English Church, Rue Sylvabelle 100 (PI. D, 6); services at 10.30 and
3. Chaplain, Her. T. C. Skeggs, Af. A., Boul. Notre-Dame 56. — French
Reformed Church (PI. E, 5), Rue Grignan 15; service at 10 a.m. — EgU^e
Li'hre, Cours Lieutaud 133 (PI. F, 6); services at 9 and 10 a.m.
Marseilles, with 376,000 inhab., the capital of the D^partemeiit
des Bouches du Rhone and the headquarters of the XV. Corps d'Ar-
mee, is the principal seaport of France, and the depot of a brisk
maritime traffic with the East, Italy, and Africa. With the exception
of Paris, no French town has been so transformed and improved w ith-
in recent times as Marseilles; but beyond its busy harbour and beau-
tiful site, the city is comparatively uninteresting. The modern
character of its buildings is in marked contrast to its antiquity.
Massilia was a colony founded about B.C. 600 by Greeks from Phocit-a
in Asia Minor, who soon became masters of the sea, defeated the Car-
thaginians in a naval battle near Corsica, and stood in friendly alliance
with the Romans as early as B. C. 390. They also established new colonies in
their neighbourhood, such as Tauroeis (near C'iotat). Olbia (near Hyeres),
Antipolis (Antibes), and Xicaea (Xice), all of which, like their founders,
adhered to the Greek language, customs, and culture. Massilia maintained
this reputation until the imperial period of Rome, and was therefore treat-
ed with leniency and respect by Julius Csesar when conquered by him,
B. C. 49. Tacitus informs us that his father-in-law Agricola, a native of
the neighbouring Roman colony of Forum Julii (Krejus), found, even under
Claudius, ample opportunities for completing his education at Massilia
in the Greek manner, for which purpose Athens was usually frequented.
The town possessed temples of Diana (on the site of the present cathedral),
ofXeptune (on the coast), of Apollo, and other gods. Its government was
aristocratic. Christianity is said to have been introduced by St. Victor
in the 3rd cent., or even, according to the legend, by St. Lazarus, the
brother of Mary and Martha. After the fall of the \V. Empire Marseilles
fell successively into the hands of the Visigoths, the Franks, andArelate;
it was destroyed by the Saracens, restored in the 10th cent, and became
subject to the Viscounts of Marseilles; in 1218 it became indenpedent, but
shortly afterwards succumbed to Charles ofAnjou. In 1481 it was united
to France, but still adhered to its ancient privileges, as was especiallv
evident in the wars of the Ligue, against Henri IV. In 1660 Louis XIV.
divested the town of its privileges, so that it retained its importance as
a sea-port only. In 1720 and 1721 it was devastated by a fearful pesti-
lence. During the revolution it remained unshaken in its allegiance to
royalty and was therefore severely punished. In 1792 hordes of galley-
slaves were sent hence to Paris, where they committed frightful excesses.
It was for them that Rouget de V Isle , an officer of engineers, composed
the celebrated Marseillai.'e, 'Allons, onfants de la patrie', which subse-
quently became the battle-hymn of the republican armies. — Puget and
Thiers were born at Marseilles.
The handsome Boulevards, which lead from the station to the
centre of the town, are planted with beautiful elms and plane-
trees. A glance at the Plan shews that Marseilles is divided into
432 V. Route 64. MARSEILLES. Bourse.
four great quarters by two main thoroughfares, intersecting each
other at right angles at the Cours St. Loui» (PI. E, 4). and hearing
iliflVrent names at different parts of their length.
The *Caiinebi6re (PI. E, 4) and its continuation the "^'Rue .\o-
iiiUeg are the finest streets in the city; they are more picturesque
and contain more sumptuous caf^s than even the Grands Boulevards
of Paris. They lead directly to the harbour.
The Bourse (PI. D. E. 4), to the right of the Cannebiere, is a large
and handsome building erected at a cost of 360,000 i. in 1852-1860,
after Coste's pLins. The facade is decorated with a projecting Corin-
thian portico of five arclies and a loggia decorated with a bas-relief
by Toussaint: "Marseilles the entrepot of the World'. Under the por-
tico are colossal statues of France and Marseilles. On each side of
the same portico, outside, are bas-reliefs representing Navigation,
Commerce, and Industry, by Guillaume; statues of Pytheas and Eu-
thymenes, by Ottin, etc. The large hall contains high-reliefs by
Gilbert. The line meeting -hall of the Chamber of Commerce, on
the lirst floor, is decorated with paintings by Magaud.
Behind the Bourse lies the Old Town, through whose laby-
rinths several large new .streets have recently been constructed. The
chief of these is the Rue de la Re'publiqne , leading to the Gare
Maritime and the docks at the new harbour (p. 433). Improvements
are still going on. — From the end of the Cannebiere we see, on a
height to the left , the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde (p. 434).
The *Harbour for a long time consisted only of the Vieux Port
iPl. C, D, 5. 4), at the foot of the Cannebiere, a basin about 1000 yds.
wide (70 acres). It is constantly crowded with shipping from all
countries, and presents a most animated and interesting scene.
The harbour has been ciuintupled in size since 1850, by the addition
of live new basins (p. 433), and others are about to be constructed to the
S. Every kind of commodity and product is naturally represented in the
commerce of Marseilles, but its specialities are cereals, oil-seeds, coal,
sugar, coftee , hides, wool, and silk. Nearly 6 million tons of shipping
enter and clear annually, and two-thirds of this total is engaged in im-
portation; while this great commerce is supplemented by an important
manufacturing industry , in which the production of the celebrated Jlar-
seilles soap bulks largely.
From the Quai de la Fraternite. at the end of the Cannebiere,
we follow the yuai du Port, to the right on which is the Hotel de
ViUe (PI. C , 4). The old Harbour is partly shut in on the left by a pro-
montory on which stands J'orf St. Mcolas (PL B, 5), built by Vauban
for Louis XIV., who desired to 'have his Bastide also at Marseilles';
"bastide" being the local term for a country house. The entrance
to the basin is defended on the other side by Fort St. Jean (PL B,4),
the old Chateau Babon or of the Knights of Malta , rebuilt under
King Kend (p. 427) and again under Louis XIV. Farther to the
left, byond the .lji.se de la Reserve, upon another larger promontory,
is the Chateau du Pharo{P\. A, ; p. 43o), presented to Napoleon IIL
by the town, a gift confirmed by the courts of law to the ex-EmpresH,
Cathedral. MARSEILLES. V. Route 64. 433
who has since presented it to the town on condition of its being
converted into a hospitaL The name refers to an old light-house
(phare) now replaced by another, beyond the Anse dn Pharo.
A short canal , running behind Fort St. Jean, connects the Old
with the New Harbour (see below). The Saiit6 or Quarantine Office
(PI. B, C, 4), situated on this side, possesses some interesting works
of art in its council-room.
To the left, Jlor. Vernet, The Cholera on board the Melpomene; David,
St. Koch praying for the plague-.strieken , one of the artist's early works
(1780); Ptigt't, The Plague at Milan, marble high-relief: Gfrarii , Bishop
Belzunce during the great plague (p. 434); Tanneur , The .Justine re-
turning from the East with the plague on board; Oulrin , Chevalier Rose
burying the plague-stricken, g
The Cathedral (PI. B, C, 3). on a terrace to the right, near the
beginning of the New Harbour, is a large and handsome building in
the Byzantine style , still unfinished , after plans by Vaudoyer and
Esp^randieu. It is built of black and white stone and is 460 ft. long.
There are two towers with domes on the facade, a dome 197 ft. high
above the crossing and a smaller one on each arm of the transept, with
others on the chapels. The interior presents an imposing aspect,
and consists of a nave with aisles and galleries over the latter. The
decoration , which is far from being finished . will be very rich. It
cannot be visited at present without permission. The statue of
Bishop Belzunce (see below) is to be placed in front of the cathedral.
The fiassin de la Joliette, to the left of the outer port, is the
most important on this side, and has an area of nearly 57 acres. It
is the starting-point of most of the large steamers . one of which
may be visited here.
Farther on, between the Bassin du Lazaret (54 acres) and the Gare
Maritime, are the Joliette Docks, covering 45 acres, and capable
of being extended to 75 acres. The quays are more than I'/j M. in
length, the buildings alone cover 2' '2 acres and altogether present a
floor-area of 27 acres, capable ofstowing 200,000 tons of merchandise.
Lastly we come to the Bassins d'Arenc, de la Oare Maritime
(45 acres), and National (120 acres), the last having an outer port.
The visitor should not fail to take a walk upon the Joliette Pier,
whence he may return by small boat.
The Rue de la Republique, already mentioned, ends at the Place
de la .Joliette, and leads straight to the Cannebiere. We follow it
as far as the Boulevard des Dames, which crosses it, turn to the left,
and proceed to the Place d'Aix.
The Arc de Triomphe (PI. D. 3), in the centre of this square,
begun in 1825 and completed in 1832, was originally intended to
commemorate the Duke of Angouleme's victory at the Trocad^ro
(1823). It has, however, been decorated with high-reliefs by David
d' Angers and Ramey, representing the battles of Fleurus, Heliopolis,
Marengo, and Austerlitz, and with allegorical statues on the Corin-
Baedeker. Southern France. 28
434 V. Route 64. MARSEILLES. Palais de Justice.
thian columns of the piers. It now tears the inscription: 'Ala
Il^publique, Marseille reconnaissante.'
The Rue d'Aix descends hence to the Cours Belzunce (Pl.E, 3,4),
one of the finest in Marseilles, on this side adorned with the bronze
statue, by Ramus, of Bishop Belzunce, who during the appalling
plague in 1720, which carried off 40,000 persons, alone maintained
his post and faithfully performed the solemn duties of his calling.
(The statue is to be removed to the terrace in front of the cathedral.)
At the other end , where there is a fountain , the Cours joins the
Rues Noailles and Cannebiere.
The Cours St Louis (PI. E, 4 ; p. 432), on the other side, resembles
the Cours Belzunce , but is smaller. Its continuation . the Rue de
Rome, leads us now into the S.W. quarter.
The Prei-ecture (PI. E, F, 6), about i/j M. from the Cannebiere.
to the right in the Rue de Rome, with its principal facade in the
Place St. Ferr^ol, is a sumptuous building dating from 1861-67, in
a modern Rcnnaissance style, after Martin's plans. Both its external
and internal decorations are very rich.
A short distance beyond the Prefecture . to the W. , begins the
handsome and well-shaded Cours Pierre-Puget, leading to the pro-
menade of the same name (see below).
The Palais de Justice (PI. D, 5) is on the right in the Cours. In
front of it is a square embellished with a bronze statue, by Fabre,
oi' Berryer, the celebrated advocate (1790-1868), deputy of the de-
partment of the Bouches-du-Rhone. The Palais is another fine mod-
ern building, erected in 1858-1862, after Martin's plans. Ithasa
grand approach by steps and a portico of six Ionic columns, with a
pediment and bas-relief by Guillaume. representing .Justice. The
outer hall is surrounded by a gallery resting on sixteen red marble
columns, and decorated with sitting statues of the great legislators :
Solon, Justinian, Charlemagne, and Napoleon I., with medallions
of the great jurisconsults, and with symbolical bas-reliefs.
The Promenade Pierre-Puget or de la Colline (PI. C. D , 6) is
laid out on one of the reservoirs of the aqueduct (p. 424), which here
forms a cascade, and is ornamented with an Antique Column upon
which is a bust of Puget. The view hence of Marseilles . its port,
and the Mediterranean is fine, but of course inferior to that from
Notre-Daine-de-la-Garde.
Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde (PI. D, 7) , to which we ascend by the
Boulevard Gazzino (PI. D,6, '^). on this side of the Promenade Puget,
or by a bad road to the left at the end of this promenade, is a church
situated on the bare and fortified summit of a hill to the S. of the
harbour. From the point where the roads end. there are 140 steps
to climb to the lower church, 174 to the upper. Notre-Dame-de-
la-Garde is a place of pilgrimage , whose mediaeval sanctuary has
Pal. de Longchnmp. MARSEILLES. V. Boute 64. 435
bei'U replaced by a fine modern building in the Byzantine style, alter
the plans of Esperandieu, one of the architects of the cathedral.
On the facade is a belfry, 150 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of the
Virgin. The interior, consisting of a nave with side - chapels , was
much injured by a Are in 1884. Visitors are no longer allowed to
ascend the tower : but the *View is almost as good from below.
Those whose time and energy iiermit should return to the entrance
to the Promenade Pviget (p. 434), there turn to the right, pass under the
footbridge , and follow the Boulevard de la Corderie. to the left, to the
Anse des Catalans.
Not far from the point where we reach the boulevard is the Church
■()/ St. Victor (PI. C, 6), a relic of the powerful abbey of the same liame,
founded by St. Cassianus (d. about 440) and several times rebuilt, the
last time by Urban V., who had been its abbot. The battlemented towers
of 1350 were erected by him. The crypt is of the 11th cent., the rest
principally of the 13th. This church, seen from the boulevard, looks
like a ruin, but shows better on the other side, and has a curious interior.
There is, however, a prospect of its being restored. Farther on, to the
right, is the Fort St. ^'icolas and the Chateau du Pharo (p. 432). The Corniche
Road (PI. A, G) begins a little beyond the fort and skirts the coast, where
it is partly cut out of the rocks, for a distance of 4i/o M., beyond the Prado
(p. 437). it passes by the Anse des Catalans, with severa,\ Bath Establish-
ments, where it is proposed to dig basins for a South Harbour. This
road, which is devoid of shade and only agreeable when the weather is
not too hot, affords magnificent *Views of the bay of Marseilles, with the
islands of If (p. 438), Ratonneau , and Pomegue. It is best to drive along
this road or go by tram, when on the way to the Prado or returning, and
also to make use of the tramway to return to the town from the Anse
des Catalans.
The Palais de Longchamp, with its rich museum and other ob-
jects of interest , is another fine building in the N.E. of Marseilles.
From the upper end of the Rue Noailles, the Boulevard Duqom-
mier (PI. F, 4. 3) extends to the left, continued by the Boulevard
du Sord, in which is a Column of the Virgin, at the foot of the terrace
of the Gare St. Charles' (p. 430). To the right is the Boulevard du
Miise'e, with the Lycee and the Public Library, open daily except
Sun., and containing nearly 90.000 vols, and 1350 MSS. Farther
on are the fine Alle'es de Meilhan (PI. F, 4), joined on the left by
the Alle'es des Capucins. The Faculty of Science stands at the angle
between these two streets.
The church of St - Vincent - de - Paul (PI. F, 3), to the riglit.
is now one of the principal ciiurches in Marseilles, with its new
facade and towers . dominating a great part of the town. It is in
the Gothic style of the 13th century. — Not far from this point, to
the left, is the Cours du Chapitre (PI. F, G, 3), with its continuation,
the Boulevard de Longchamp (PI. G, H, 3,2). leading up to the
palace, nearly a mile from the Rue Noailles.
The *Palais de Longchamp ^Pl. IL 2), built in 1862-1869, after the
plans of Enpe'randieu, is a magnificent building in the Renaissance
style, remarkable for the originality of its plan and architecture, and
also, it may be added, for its situation. It occupies an eminence at the
top of a long boulevard, from which it is separated by a fine garden.
28*
436 V. Route 64. MARSEILLES. Pal. de Longchamp.
At the sides are two large buildings and in the middle a triumphal
arch, which are connected by a semicircular colonnade, at the
height of the first story. The buildings contain the museums (see
below); the triumphal arch, which is reached by large flights of steps
at the sides, is the Chateau d'Eau of the Marseilles aqueduct
(p. 424), which joins it behind. In front is a basin whence an
abundant cascade descends over a flight of steps, and in this basin
is a colossal group, by Cavelier, representing the Durance between
the Vine and "Wheat on a chariot drawn by four bulls. The friezes
of the triumphal arch and museums are also by Cavelier. Right
and left are Tritons and Genii by Leguesne. The animals at the
entrance to the garden are by Barye. This palace, whose interior
is as magnificent as its exterior, has cost upwards of 160,000 I.
The MrsEE des Beaux-Arts, in the building to the left, is open
daily, except Mon. and Frid., from 8-12 and from 2-6 p. m. in
summer. 2-4.30 in winter. It is closed January 20th-.31st and
July 20th-31st. Explanatory labels are attached to the works of art.
Ground -Floor. — Central Gallery, casts, lironzes, marbles, and
paintings: 452. Puget (of JIarseilles), Jlilo of Crotona; 430. (behind) Diprez,
Puget (bronze bust); 428, 429. Delaplanche, Child riding upon a tortoise,
Pe'eoraro ; 431. Du Commun du Lode, Cleopatra. — The paintings may be
seen as we return from the adjoining room: from right to left: 412.
Seghers, David: 352. Bloemen, Landscape; no number, Giorgione (i), Judith;
Gerard, Portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Berry; 46. Debon^ Defeat
of Attila in the plains of Chalons; 91. Ileim, Battle" of Rocroi; 61. Feron,
Hannibal crossing the Alps.
Room to the left of the entrance: Puget, 455. The Plague at Milan,
cast of the bas-relief at the Sante (p. 433), 4.53. Faun, an unfinished statue;
416. Allar. Hecuba and her son Polydonis, high-relief; US. Puget, Louis XIV.,
medallion; no number, Kfi/ner (pupil of Puget), Flora and Faun; Preatilt,
Ophelia, bas-relief in bronze; no number, CUsinger , Statue of Thiers;
418. Croisy, Colonization of Marseilles, high-relief; 458. Thorraldsen, Bust;
no number, CI. Vignon , Daphne changed into a laurel-tree; 459. Ti-u-
pheme , Lesbia's sparrow; 445. Horeau, Studiosa. — In the adjoining
Cabinet, drawings and a fresco ascribed to Correggio.
Room to the kight: 450, 451, on each side of the door, casts of Carya-
tides (or Atlantes) by Puget at Toulon (p. 440); *417, in the middle, Carrier-
Belleuse, Psyche; Poiterin, 446. Boy spinning a top, 447. Boy playing at
marl)les. Paintings, to the right of the door: 31. Couder, Leonidas bid-
ding his family farewell: 123. Monjin, Blessing the flocks starting for the
Alps; 27. Lebr'un, Alexanders Entrance into Babylon; 338, 337. Italian
School of the 15th cent.. Story of Ariadne and Theseus.
First Floor. — Staircase: Marseilles a Greek Colony and Marseilles
the Gate of the East, mural paintings by Puvis de Chavannes. Decorative
sculptures by Cavelier. Poiterin, Chauvet, Chabaud, Ferrat, TrupMme, and
Guindon.
Central Gallery, to the right: 313. II Calabrese, St. Jerome; 381.
Jnrdaens, The Miraculous Draught of fishes, much damaged; 274. P. Vero-
nese, Portrait of a Venetian Woman; 345. Ribera (?), St. Peter; 308. Palma
VecchioCO, Holv Family; 84. Gros, 76. Girodet , Portraits of Mons. and
.Mme. Favrega;"334. Italian School, The Magdalen; 189. Hub. Robert, nuins;
75. Gerard, Portrait of Louis XVIII. ; 470. Gros, Philoctetes; 346. Zur-
baran, St. Francis; no number, Pereda, Christ descended from the Cross;
328. Tintoretto, The Doge Morosini (?); 317. Salv. Rosa. Hermit meditating;
305. Maratti, Cardinal Cibo; 32. Courbet, Stag drinking; 397. Rubens, Boar-
hunt; 365. Phil, de Champaigne, Stoning: of St. Paul; 283. Castiglione, A
Farm; 357. Bouts, and 358. Boudetvyns, Landscapes; no number, Munari.
Prado. MARSEILLES. V. Route 64. 437
Holy Family; 406. SHpJers, Animals and Fruit: 400. after Rithens , The
Scourging: 'Rnbens, 398. The Adoration of the Shepherds, sketcli; 399.
The Resurrection; '331. Penigino, Family of the Virgin; 366. De Crayer,
Man between Vice and Virtue; 368. Van Dyck (?) , Christ; 231. Lesiieur,
The Presentation; 360. Brtieghel the Klder, Landscape; 280. Ann. Carracci,
A Village Wedding: 386. Van Mol , Adoration of the Shepherds; 395.
Rembranllt, Maiden: 367. Dekker, Landscape; 311. Bassano, Building of the
Ark; 404. /. Riiysdael, Landscape; 281. L. Carracci, Assumption; 180. U.
Regnault , Judith and Holofernes; no number, Unknown Artist, Tavern
Scene; 253. Vien, Healing of the sick of the palsv; 344. Ribera, Giov. da
ProcidaC?); 323. Raphael (!) , St. John writing the Apocalypse: 377, 376,
Holbein the Yotinger (!), Portraits; 351. £/oe?He?i, Landscape ; w'2. Rnbens (?),
female head: 353. Bol, Old woman; 50. Biifaii, Gustavus Vasa, haranguing
the peasants of Dalecarlia; 254. Vien, Jesus healing the Centurion's son;
314. Guido Reni, Patron saints of Milan (sketch) ; 364. l>e Champaigne, Assump-
tion; 394. Rembrandt (?), A Sibyl; 267. Unknown Artist, Portrait; 325. Soli-
inena, Crucifixion; 131. Natoire, St. Jerome: 22. Bourdon, Phil, de Cham-
paigne; no number. Londet, Scene with Robespierre, Danton, and Marat;
284. Arpino, Noah's Drunkenness; 327. Tintoretto, The Cardinal Virtues;
176. Raoux , Young girl surprised by her grandmother; 273. School of
Veronese, Charity; 1592. Pourbus the Younger, Portrait; 304. Maratti (?)■, Vir-
gin suckling the Child Jesus; 256. Vouet , Madonna and Child; 352. Bol,
Portrait: 369. Van Di/ck, Portrait of the Earl of Stratford: 269. Cararaggio,
The dead Christ; 393. Pourbus the Elder, Portrait.
Room to the kiuht (of the entrance), modern paintings, of little im-
portance : 493, 490, 489. Saintpierre, Genre scenes: no number, Giiindon,
The Fisher's arrival ; 462. Bompard, Debut at the studio.
Room to the left, modern paintings. To the right: 44. Daubigny,
The Beach, Landscape; 162. Philippoteaux , The Girondists' last banquet;
no number, Boulanger, St. Sebastian and the Emperor Maximilianus Her-
cules ; 30. Corot, View in the Italian Tyrol; 96. Isabey , Sea-piece; 77.
Glaize, The Pillory; etc. — Cabinet-, small landscapes, etc. 65. Courtois,
Karcissus; 63. Finsonius, Portrait; 194. Ary Hcheffer, The Magdalen.
The Museum of Natural History, in tlip building to the right,
i.s only open on Thurs.. .Sun., and holidays, at the same hours as the
Fine Arts Museum. The Ground-Floor is devoted to mammals, palae-
ontology, and mineralogy, the First Floor to birds and oonchology,
the Second Floor to reptiles, insects, flsh. and radiata. The rooms
and staircase of this museum are decorated with paintings on wax
by Rnph. Ponson, Le'op. Durnngel. and Jos. Lalanne.
Behind the palace is a small Public Garden, to the right of which
is the Zoological Garden , a brancli of the Jardin (rAcclimatation
at Paris. The garden is not large , but affords a pretty promenade
(adm. 50 c. free on Sun. and holidays, when there is a band).
The Prado (PI. F, 7) is the principal promenade outside Marseilles,
and is especially frequented towards evening in fine weather, re-
sembling in this the Corniche Road which is often taken for the re-
turn (tramway. •■'/4 hr. ; 40 c). The Prado is a magnificent avenue,
2 M. long, beginning at the Place C'astellane, at the end of the Rue
de Rome, more than ^'4 M. from the Rue Noailles , and turning
to the right nearly a mile thence towards the sea. It is flanked by
fine villas.
Near the end, to the left, in a fine Park, is the Chateau Boeely
small PI. D, 4), in which is the Archaeological Museum of Marseilles,
438 V. Route 65. LA CIOTAT. 2wo;« Marseilles
open on Sua. and Thurs. (except during the races), 2-4 in winter.
2-0 in summer; daily to strangers. The exhibits bear labels. The
ground-floor, with eight rooms, is mainly occupied by collections of
ancient fragments and of Massilian , Egyptian, and PhaTiician
antiquities. The 4th room, the 'Salon dor^', is richly furnished in
the style of Louis XVI., and decorated with paintings attributed to
C'heix. The ceiling of the staircase (Icarus) is attributed to the same
master. On the first floor are small antiquities, objects of art ot
different epochs, a small ethnographical collection, etc. One of the
rooms is a bed-chamber in the style of Louis XVI., another an oratory,
with four marble bas-reliefs, an ivory crucifix, and two copies from
paintings by old masters.
The Race-Course of Blarseilles occupies part of the park near the sea.
On the slope of the hill of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde is the pretty Chateau
Talabot. In the vicinity and along the beach are numerous cafe's and
restaurants, in which it is prudent to ascertain the tariti' before ordering.
An interesting excursion may be made in summer from the Vieux
Port to the celebrated Chateau d'lf, on the small island of this name,
nearly 2 M. to the W. Steamer, see p. 430. Boats cannot land except in
line weather. The PorC du Frioid here is used as a lazaretto. The castle,
leudered famous by Alex. Dumas in his 'Monte Cristo'. is a keep built in
1.529, and has been used as a state-prison; its principal dungeons are shown.
There is a fine view from the top.
From Marseilles to Aries and Avignon, see R. 61, to Nimes and Jifont-
pellier, K. 61, 58a, 60, and p. 423: to Air, R. 63; to Grenoble, R. 63: to-
Toulon, Cannes, Nice, etc., R. 65.
65. From Marseilles to Ventimiglia (Italy).
156 M. Railway in 73 4-IO1 4 1,,.^. (fares 31 fr. 10. 23 fr. 35, 17 fr. 15 c).
Best views to the right.
A Train de luxe leaves Paris every evening during the winter and
reaches the stations on the Riviera, via Lyons and Marseilles, on the fol-
lowing afternoon, returning every morning, and reaching Paris the next
morning. The fares are 25 to 80 fr., or 30 to 100 fr. in excess of the or-
dinary fares, according to the distance, and varying also at the beginning
and end of the season. See the Indieateur.
I. From Marseilles to Toulon (Hy6res}.
411/2 M. Railway in II/2-21/3 hrs. (.fares 8 fr. 25, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 55 c).
Marseilles, see p. 430. ^ The line, at first at some distance from
the sea, traverses an undulating and not uninteresting country. Be-
yond a short tunnel Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde is seen to the right. —
3V2 M. La Blancarde , junction for the Gare du Prado (p. 430).
Passing under an aqueduct, we reach (4'/2 M.) La Pomme, on the
Huveaune, which is crossed several times. — S'/a M. St. Marcel;
TVaM. St. Menet; 8 M. La Penne; 9 M. Camp-Major; lO'/j M.
Auhafine, a town of 7885 inhabitants..
A branch-line runs hence to (IOV2 M.) Valdonne, important for its
mines of lignite. — 6 M. Anriol, a small town II/4 M. to the K., whence an
excursion may be made to the Ste. Baume (\t A2Q ; public conveyances daily,
there and back in 5-6 hrs., fare 5 fr.).
We pass through two tunnels, '/4 M. and I'/gM. long. — 16'/2 M-
Cassis, station for the small port of that name (Carsicis portus), 2M.
to Ventlmiglia. TOULON. V. Route 65. 439
distant. Two more tunnels , the second nearly 1 M. long. To the
left is the village of Ceyreste (Csesarista) with remains of an ancient
i-amp, fountain , and ramparts. Fine view of the Golfe des Leques,
to the right.
23 M. La C'iotat-Gare, from which there is a branch to (2'/2 M.)
La Ciotat (Hotel de V Vnivers), a town of 10,689 inhab., seen on the
gulf to the S.W., on the site of the ancient Massilian colony Citha-
ristn. The harbour is of no great importance, but,is xised for fishing,
and for the coral fishery in particular. There are large dockyards bo-
longing to the Messageries Maritimes, and a promenade, called La
Tasse. with a fine view.
27 M. St. Cyr. "We now lose sight of the sea , but again return
to the coast through a tunnel. — 31'/2M. Bandol , a small port on
a beautiful bay. The olive plantations become more important. —
36 M. OUioules- St. Nazaire. Ollioules is a small town lying in a
pretty valley about 2 M. to the left (conveyances from Toulon): St.
Nazaire, a small sea-port about 1 M. to the right. To the right is the
peninsula of Cap Sivier, with the hill of Six-Fours (p. 442).
38'/2 M. La Seyne [Hotel dela Mediferrane'e, at the harbour), with
12,072 inhab. and important dockyards (steamer from Toulon p. 442).
To the left are the two forts of St. Antoine ; then a short tunnel.
41"2M. Toulon. — Hotels. Grand-Hotel, Place de la Liberie', not
far from the station, E. from 2i/o fr. ; Hotel Victoria, Boulevard de
Strasbwirg, near the theatre; de la Paix, Place d'Armes; du Lovvre,
11 Rue Corncille, also near the theatre; du Xord, Place Puget.
Caf^s-Bestaurants. Cafii du Commerce^ at the harbour; de Paris ^ Place
d'Armes; Continental; Grand Cafi et Brasserie Alsacienne ^ Boulevard de
t>trasbourg.
Cabs. Per drive in the town, 1 fr. 25 c, at night (10 p. m. to 6 a. m.)
1 Ir. 60 c.; piT hour, 2 and 2i/-i fr. ; 20 c. for each package.
Post and Telegraph Office, Rue Racine, near the theatre.
American Consular Agent, Mr. Thaddeus P. Mott.
To«Zo?i (70,122 inhab.). a fortress of the first class, and after Brest
the most important naval station in France, is finely situated on a
deep and well-sheltered bay of the Mediterranean, and surrounded
by hills wich are studded with detached forts.
Tela Martins is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians, and
to have owed its name 'Martins' to the purple dye-works which they
established. Its importance, however, is entirely modern. It was twice
taken by Charles \.^ in 1524 and 1536, but the fortifications erected
under Henri IV. and Louis XIV. enabled it in 1707 to resist success-
fully the combined fleets of England and Holland and the army of Prince
Kugene. In 1793 it was given up by the Royalists to the English and
their Spanish and Neapolitan allies. It was in the si.\ weeks siege by
which these were driven out, that Bonaparte, then an artillery officer,
first distinguished himself. The defeated in revenge set fire to the arsenal
and to tlie greater part of the French fleet, while tlie conquerors cruelly
punished the inhabitants for their treason and made Draguignan (p.44o)
the capital of the department.
The old part of the town is ill-built, but in the new quarters
which have grown up since the extension of the fortifications under
the second empire, there are broad streets and handsome buildings.
From the station , on the N. side of the new town, the Avenue
440 r. Route 65. ' TOULON. From Marseilles
Vauban Irads to the Boulevard de Strasbourg, which crosses the
town from E. to W. We turn to the left to the Place de la Liberie'.
The Theatre, a little farther to the E., is a handsome modern
edifice containing 1800 seats , built by Feuctieres and Carpentier.
The principal facade is on the other side and contains a fine pedi-
ment with statues of Comedy and Lyric Tragedy, by Daumas. The
facade in the Boul. de Strasbourg is ornamented by six colossal
Muses in high relief, by Montayne. — Still farther along the Boule-
vard are, on the right, the Lyce'e and on the left, the Ecole Rouviere.
the entrance to which is surmounted by a fine bas-relief by Allar.
To the S.E. of the Place du Theatre, and below the Lyc^e, is
the small Place Puget, with a picturesque fountain (1780). Hence
the harbour may be reached direct via the Rue Hoche and the Rue
d'Alger (see below). We proceed to the S.E. as far as the handsome
Rue Lafayette and then turn to the right.
Ste. Marie-Majeure, the former cathedral , a short distance off
by the second street to the right , is a Romanesque edifice of the
ll-12th centuries. The facade was added in the 17th cent., when
the church was considerably enlarged, and the belfry in the IStli.
There are some sculptures deserving notice; in the chapel to the
right of the choir, an altar-screen , the Eternal Father surrounded
by angels, of which the two bearing censers should be noticed, by
Veyrier , and an Entombment of the Virgin, by Verdiguier, two
pupils of Puget; in a niche above the arcade of the chapel to the
left of the choir, a fine gilt Virgin, surrounded by angels, attributed
to Puget. In front of this chapel, an Assumption by P. Mignard.
The somewhat heavy pulpit is by Hubac of Toulon.
Near the end of the Rue Lafayette is the Place Louis-Blanc,
with the 18th cent. Church of St. Jean or St. Franfuis-de-Pavle.
containing a Nativity of St. John, by Michel Serres.
The Harbour, to which the street leads , consists of 5 principal
basins: the Darst Vieille, and a small Commercial Harbour to the
E. ; the Darse Neuve to the W. ; beyond this the Darse de Casti-
gneaii , and the Darse Missiessy. The Darse Vieille is the oldest,
and is now used chiefly for the supply of materials necessary for tlie
fleet; the others, with the exception of the small harbour above-
mentioned, are reserved for ships of war.
Outside the basins are the spacious and well-sheltered roadsteads,
the Petite and the Grande Rade ^ connected by a wide channel between
the Pointe de I'ipady on the left and the Fort 'de VKgnillette on the right.
It was by the capture of this fort, which commands the harbour, that
the struggle was decided in 1793 and the English compelled to beat a
liasty retreat. Farther ofT are tlie Fort Balaguier on another small headland,
and the Petit-Gibraltar or Fort Afalijrave, which also played an important
part in 1793. The Grande Bade is bounded on the S., about 3 M. from Toulon,
by the ('ape fifpet Ptninnda (p. 442), a prolongation eastwards of the Cape
S'icier Peninsula (p. 442), which forms the W. side of both roadsteads, so
that they are aecessil>le only from the E., betwen Cap Sepet and Cap Bnin.
- The H6tel de Ville, in the Carre' du Port, near the centre of
the Quai de la Darse Vieille, has two fine Atlantes by Puget. In the
to Ventimiglia. TOULON, V. Route 65. 441
square is a colossal bronze statue by Daumas . representing the
Genius of Navigation. Tlie Rne d' Alger, which joins the quay farther
on, is the busiest street of old Toulon. — To the left of this street
is the Church of St. Pierre, with a flue pulpit.
The Arsenal, at the end of the quay, may be visited on week-
days. Permission can easily be obtained from the 'Majority', if
some proof of identity is presented. Application must be made
precisely at 2 p. m.. at the offlces in the Place d'Armes (see below).
The arsenal, which is entered by a commanding gateway built
in 1738. was begun in the reign of Louis XIV. on the plans of
Vauban, and covers an area of 660 acres. The following are the
chief objects shown: the Naval Museum, containing sculptures by
Puget and his pupils, and models of ships; Rope-walks, 350 yds. in
length; Iron-works, Work-shops, Magazine, Artillery- Park; the large:
Salle d'Artnes with a valuable collection of small arms of all kinds,
well kept and arranged in trophies; some statues, inchiding one
of Fame by Puget: the i>;let between the Uarse Ncuve and the Darse
Yieille, containing the Graving-docks, and used as the Bagno until
1873. since which date convicts are transported to New Caledonia.
The portions surrounding the Darse de Castigneau, consisting of the
bakehouse, workshops, laundry, mills, storehouse, etc., can be visited
only by special permission. There are also large dockyards known
as the Arsenal du Mourillon , to the E. of the roadstead, beyond
the commercial harbour, where iron and wooden ships are built, and
the stores of timber kept in enormous trenches.
A visit to a man-of-war in the roadstead will also be found
interesting. The fare by boat {i^!^ fr. per hour) should be settled
beforehand. Permission is readily given by the officer on duty.
Gratuities forbidden. — Excursion to Cap S^pet, see p. 442.
The Place d'Armes, with its handsome plane-trees, is the most
important open space in the town. At one end is the Prefecture
Maritime, built in 1786-88. Near the opposite side is the Church
of St. Louis, which is of little interest.
The Rue St. Roch leads from the Prefecture to the Place St. Rocli,
in which is a charming little fountain. The Avenue de la Porte-de-
France leads hence to the Jardin de la Ville, a fine promenade at
the W. end of the Boulevard de Strasbourg. There is a fine statue
of a woman brought from a tomb, and a 16th cent, church-doorway,
forming part of a fountain, which deserve notice. A military band
plays on Saturdays. Behind is the Hospice de la. Charite.
The Mus6e, in a haiulsome new building, also at tlie W. end
of the Boulevard de Strasbourg, consists chiefly of paintings of
the French School of the 18th and 19th centuries. Solimena, A.
del Sarto, Van Dyck . Honthorst, Teniers, Carracci, Correggio, Jor-
daens, and other Italian and Flemish painters are also represented.
Excursions. — To the Hospital ok St. Mandrier, on the Cap Sipel
Peninsula, crossing both the roadsteads, strongly recommended. Steamer
from the end of the Rue d'Alger, every ll/o br. , crossing in l/o hr. ;
442 V. Route 65. flYERES. From Marseilles
fares 35, 25 c. The hospital, for sailors only, is only shown by permission
of the 'Commissaire des Hopitaux'. The only objects of interest are the
round chapel , and a large cistern remarkable for its repeated echo.
Adjoining is a fine Botanic Garden with palms and other exotics. On a
hill farther to the S.E. is a Pyramid^ erected in memory of Admiral La-
touehe-Treville (d. 1805). The *View is iiaaj;niflcent.
To THE Cap Bein, to the E. , omnibus every 2 hrs. from the Porte
d"Italie, on the E. side of the town (30 c). We pass the Fort de Lamalgue,
constructed by Vauban, now a military prison. Beyond the fort, situated
on the other side of the Jlourillon peninsula, the scenery is picturesque,
and there is a line *View from the point, on which the Fort du Cap Brvn
stands.
To THE Faron or Pharon (1790 ft.), to the N., on which stand 5 forts,
the ascent may be made either by carriage or on foot (li/2hr.). Magni-
lieent *View of Toulon and the sea to the S. , Corsica being visible in
clear weather, and of the Alps to the N. The view is even finer from
the Coudon (2305 ft.), the next height to the N.E., also crowned with a fort.
It may be ascended from the station of La Garde (p. 444).
To THE Cap Sicier Pejiinsvla. A steamer plies every 1/2 hr. (25 and
20 c.) to La Seyne (20 min.; p. 439), where carriages may be" hired (1 fr.
per hr.) to visit the picturesque peninsula. The first point reached is
Six-Fours (311. to the W.; 1/0 hr. by carriage), a small decayed town on
an isolated hill (700 ft.), owing its name to six medifeval forts, to which
a modern one was added in 1876. The church, of the 10th and 17th cent.,
is rich in works of art, including a triptych of the 15th cent., and a Virgin
in marble, attributed toPuget. Fine view from the summit of the hill. The
next point is Cap Sicier (1180 ft.), 4 JI. from Six-Fours, where the peninsula
ends in a sheer precipice. The Chapel of Notre- Dame -de -la- Garde is
much frequented by pilgrims in the month of May. We may return to
(0I/.2 M.) La Sevne via the forest of La Bonne-Mere, leaving the Cap Sepet
peninsula (p. 440) to the right, and passing below the Fort Malgrave or
Petit-CTibraltar (p. 440). a varied and picturesque route. ,
From Toulon to Hyires, 13 M. Railway in 3/4-I hr. (fares 2 fr. 55,
1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 40 c). — By Road. U M.: public conveyances from the
Place Puget several times daily, fare 1 fr. The railway is to be preferred.
The line leaves that to Nice at (7 M.) La Pauline (see p. 444).
— S'/a M. La Crau. To the right are the Monts du Pnradis (980 ft.)
and des Oiseaux (1004 ft.); to the left, the chain of the Maurettes
i962 ft.), to the y. of which lies Hyeres, ','4 hr. from the station (the
town has another station on the St. Kaphaiil line, p. 446).
13 M. Hyferes. — Hotels. (Irand-Hotei. des Iles-d"Oh, Continental,
■•iame proprietor, near the W. end of the Boulevard National; Gr.-H("itel
DES Hespkridbs, somewhat farther; Gr. -Hotel desPalmiers, Place des
Palmiers , all of the first class: des Ambassadeurs , de L'ErROPE, nearer
the centre of the Boulevard National; du Parc, des Iles-d'Hyeres, Boule-
vard des Palmiers, the latter also in the Place de la Rade ; de Paris
(Maison Doree), near the post-office, second class; des Negociants, BouI.
National, de'j . 2i /o, 1>. 3 fr. — Grand-Hotel d"Ouie>;t, de la Mkditerhanee, at
the Jardin Denis; near it, du Louvre, Cours Burliere; Hotel & Pens.
DES Etra>;gers, Rue St. Antoine, in the same quarter; Beau-Sejouu, at
the E. end of the Boulevard National, pens, from 9 fr. — Numerous apart-
ments and villas to be let (see p. xx). Hotel de l'Ermitaoe. see p. 444.
Caf^s. Des Palmiers, Place des Palmiers; de VUnivers, de la Pair,
Boulevard des Palmiers; du Steele, Place de la Rade.
Cabs. Per drive li '2 fr., per hr. 2 fr. for 2 persons; each additional
person 25 and 50 e. Special tarifl" for certain drives outside the town.
— OM>«im's to /.a Plage (see below). 40 c.
Post and Telegraph Office, I'oulevard des Palmiers 2.
to Ventimiglia. HYERES. V. Route 65. 443
English Church (St. Paul's). Winter Chaplain, Rev. R. J. Kaniey, M. A.
English Chemist, J. Massel^ Rue Alphonse-Denis.
Ilyires, a town with 13,840 iiihab., is finely situated, 3 M. from
tlio sea, at the foot of a steep hill, and sheltered by mountains from
the cold N. , N.E. , and N.W. winds, though not entirely from the
.Mistral, the plague of Provence. It is the oldest of the Mediterranean
wiTiter resorts. The climate is exceptionally mild and dry, but it is
somewhat variable, and the vegetation of its magnificent gardens of
orange and olive trees, palms, and oleanders, has been known to
suffer for a considerable period from tlie severe cold. The neighbouring
marshes too breed both fevers and mosquitoes. Hyeres supplies Paris
with a large quantity of early fruit and vegetables, strawberries alone,
it is said, representing an annual value of 2400 I.
Hyeres consists of an Old Toivn, on the slope of the hill, V4^'-
from the station, and a Neiv Town, at the foot of the hill, extending
on both sides of the Boulevard National, a broad street about i'/^M.
in length, which is divided in three sections by two open spaces,
the Place des Palmierg, to the W., and the Place de, la Bade, to the
K. In the centre of the former, which is embellished with nine fine
date-palms and affords a magnificent view, is an obelisk in honour of
Baron Stulz, a German tailor who made a large fortune in London,
and used it for benevolent purposes in the town of Hyeres . where
he died in 1832.
In the Place de la Bade, farther to the E. , is the so-called
Chateau Denis, containing the Ptiblic Library, open daily, except
Thurs. during the winter, from 9 to 11 a. m., and from I to 4 p. m.,
and a small Museum, chiefly of natural history, open on Sun. and
Thnrs. from 1 to 5 p. m. Behind is the new Jardin Public.
To the S. of the E. part of the Boulevard National ami parallel to
it. is the fine Boulevard dc^ Palnders, with more than 70 date-palms,
some of the trees bearing fruit, though it does not ripen.
To the N. of the Place de la Hade is the Place de la Be'publique,
a shady promenade with a statue, by Daumas, of Charles of Anjou,
who annexed the town to Provence. To the right is the Church of
St. Louis, of the 12th cent. , but altered in 1822-1840. — The
street opposite ascends to the Place iSIassillon, with the Hotel de
Ville, formerly a chapel of the Templars. In front of it is a bust of
Massillon, the celebrated preacher (born here; in 1633), and a room
on the fround-floor contains an interesting Roman mosaic, found in
the vicinity. — We may ascend thence in '/4 hr., or better from the
post-office by the Chemin de la Pierre-Glissante, to the villa on the
site of the ancient Castle. There are considerable remains of the
ramparts and towers near the summit. Visitors are admitted from
8 a. m. to 5 p. m. (gratuity). From the summit (670 ft.) the finest
'''View of Hyeres is obtained.
Near the station is a Jardin dWccliwatation , a branch of that
in Paris. Admission free.
444 T; Route 65. LA GAKDE. From Marseilles
Excursions. — To the SALrNs-t>'HYBr,ES or the Old Halt- Mar shei , 5M.,
railway in 15-20 min. (fares 95, 70, 55 e.). — At (21/2 M.) La I'lage (omnibus,
see above) the railway reaches the coast. Here Henri IV. planned the
rebuilding of the town of Hyeres after its destruction in the Wars of
Keligion, and some of the walls of the harbour, which was actually
begun, may still be seen. — The Salt Marshes, about 1000 acres in extent,
with an annual produce of 10,000 tons of salt, are interesting only in sum-
mer. The village is at some distance from the station, near which is a
landing-stage for the training-ships in the Roadstead (see below).
Ti> THE HEnMITAGE IN THE VaL DE CosTEBELLE , AND TO POMPONIANA.
The Hermitage, a small hill (320 ft.) 8/4 hr. to the S. , is visible in the
direction of the station. Here is an ancient Chapel of the Virgin, in the
Romanesque style, and the H6iel de V Ermitage or Gr.-Hdt. Costebelle , fre
quented by the English. Magnificent view over plain and sea. To the W.
is the charming Val de Costebelle, and on the other side the Mont des
Oiseaiix (1004 ft.), with a fine view, may be ascended in I1/2 hr. In the
valley are pretty villas; farther on St. I'ierre-des- Harts (Lat. 'hortus'), with
a modern Gothic chateau : still farther, the ruins of the Convent of St. Pierre
dWlmanarre, and on the sea-shore near some baths, 3 M. from Hyeres,
the ruins of Poniponiana, a Gallo-Roman villa, of which nothing histori-
cally is known. Excavations have betn carried on since 1843, and sub-
structures of various kinds extending over a large area have been dis-
covered. This excursion may be combined with the following, the New
Salt Marshes being only 3/^ ji. to the S.E. of Poniponiana.
To the Giens Peninsula (Neio Salt Marshes; lies d'' Hyeres). A road,
passing to the E. of the Hermitage, leads directly S. to the peninsula,
o M. from Hyeres. It was formerly an island but is now connected with
the mainland by two low and narrow sandbanks, between which is the
F.tang des Pesqiiiers. The New Salt Marshes are more than 1200 acres
in extent and annually produce about 10,000 tons of salt. Abovit 3 M.
farther is the hamlet of Giens, with some inconsiderable ruins of a castle.
About 2 M. farther to the S.E., upon a rock on the coast, is a small fort.
f.ii Tour Fondue, on the site of an old castle. To the E. are the Hyferes
Roadsteads, often used for the evolutions of the Toulon squadron.
Tliev are well sheltered, with an area of about 60 sq. M., and a depth
of 250 ft. To the S. of the peninsula is the small island of Rouband, with
a lighthouse, one of the lies d'Hyferes, the Stoechades of the ancients,
also known at one time as the lies rf' Or. The others are PorgueroUes,
the largest and nearest to the peninsula, 5 M. long by I1/4 wide; Portcros,
more to the E., 21/2 M. by I1/2 M.; the He dii Levant "or du Titan, still far-
ther, almost as large as the first mentioned, and the small island of
liagaud, to the N.W. of Portcros. They are thinlv populated, and partly
fortified. Their climate is inferior to that of Hyeres.
From Hyeres to .5*. Raphael via -S'. Tropez, see p. 446.
II. From Toulon to Veutimiglia.
115 M. Railway in 61/2-73/4 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 8.5. 17 fr. 15, 12 fr. 60 c.).
Best views on the right.
Toulon, see p. 439. — 46'/2 M. (from Marseilles) La Garde, a
place of some size, to the left, with the ruins of a 16th cent, castle.
The line now leaves the coast, to which it does not return till after
passing Fr^jus (see below). To the left, the Condon (p. 442).
48V2 M. La Pauline, junction for Hyeres (p. 442). To the left
is a rich modern chapel in the 14th cent, style, with sculptures by
Pradier. -- Beyond (oO'/a M.) Jm Farlede the line ascends the
beautiful valley of the Gapeau , between the offshoots of the Alps
on the left and the Maures on the right. — 52 M. SoUih-Pont:
56 M. Ciiers; 61 M. PiKjet-Ville, at the foot of a hill, on which i.s
to Ventimiglia. FREJUS. ' V. Raute 65. 445
a 12th cent, tower; 63 '/2 M. Carnotdes. Railway to Gardanne, see
p. 429. — 65 M. Pignans. To the right on an outlier of the Maures
is the hermitage of Nofre-Dnine-des-Anc/es (2555 ft.), with a magni-
llcent view. We pass through cuttings in the red sandstone into
a plain rich in olive and mulberry trees. — 62 M. Gonfaron. —
747? M. Le Luc et Le Cannet. Farther on. on a height to the right,
is the Chapel of Ste. Briyitte (620 ft. ; line view). — 80 M. Vidauhan.
The valley of the Arf/en.^ is readied, and the river soon crossed. —
On a height to the left is the Chateau d' Astros.
83'/2 M. Les Arcs (Buffet), with a large trade in cork.
A branch-line runs hence via (51/3 31.) Tra7>s to (8 JI.) Sraguignan
(HCtel Berlin; Coniinental) , with 9735inliab., at the foot of the Malmont
(,2150ft.), on the Nartubie. Its foundation dates from the 5th cent., but
its importance only from 1793, when it became the capita! of the depart-
ment of the Var in place of Toulon (p. 439). The AlUes iVAz^mar, in front
of the Prefecture , contain fine plane-trees. In the Museum are some
good pictures by Teniers , Rembrandt, and Panim. — Line to Meyrargues
and to drasse, see p. 427.
89';2 M. Le Muy; 93 M. Roquebrune; 9572^1. Le Puget-sur-Ar-
gens. — Before reaching Frejiis. the Amphitheatre is seen on the left.
98 M. Fr6jus (Hotel du Midi : des Ef rangers, near the station;
omnibus to St. Raphael, 25 c.) , the Forum Julii of the Romans,
is now a town of 3540 inhab.. and the seat of a bishopric.
Its former importance is shown by its old walls inclosing an area
live times as large as the present town. The harbour was founded by
Csesar and enlarged by .\ugustus , who sent here the galleys taken from
Antony at the battle of Aetium (B. C. 31). The town is now nearly
1 M. from the sea, owing to the alluvial deposit of the Argens. It is the
birthplace of Koscius the actor, -Vgricola the general, Cornelius Gallus
the poet, Sieyes, Desaugiers, etc.
The Roman Remains consist of the Amj)hi theatre, through which
the road passes, near the station, mostly of the time of Septimius
.Severus (193-211) and formerly able to hold 9100 spectators; frag-
ments of the Walls in this as well as in other parts; the Thermiv,
now a farm-house; the Porte Dore'e, or rather d'Ore'e. the harbour-
gate, a fragment of a portico; the Aqueduct, with arches 60 ft. in
height, which brought water from the Siagnole, 25 M. distant; near
it the scanty ruins of the Theatre: the Lantern of Augustus, errone-
ously supposed to be the founilatioii of a light -house; and the
Roman Bridge, where Lepidus encamped his troops, about 1 M. to
the E. of the amphitheatre, near the railway, but on the other side.
The canal which it crossed is now diverted. There is also a small
Museum of Antiquities, near the Hotel de "Nille. containing a well
preserved Head of Jupiter, l(i inches in height. Near the site of the
former harbour is the Butte St. Antoine, the old Citadelle du Cou-
cliant, 1/2 M. in circumference, which still retains some of its walls
and three towers. The Citadelle du Levant, at the other extremity
of the harbour, also shows massive walls, vaulted chambers, etc.
Near the station is a fine 16th cent, tower, restored. In the Rue
Desaugiers is the Cathedral, a Romanesque building of the ll-12th
cent., with a baptistery to the left of the porch, and a Gothic cloister.
446 T". Rovte 65. ANTIBES. From Marseilles
100 M. St. Kaphael. — Hotels: Grakd-Hot. St. Raphael, 1st class;
Or. -Hot. des Bains; Hot. Beaurivage; Hot. des Negociants, etc. — At
Valescure, on the Fre'jus road, in a sheltered position, Gr.-Hot. de Vales-
hire. — Casino (concerts, etc.1, near the harbour. — English Church Ser-
vice in winter.
St. Raphael, the harbour of Frejus, has of late years become a
winter resort from the beauty of it.s situation, notwithstanding its
exposure to the Mistral. Here Napoleon I. landed on his return from
Egypt in 1799, and embarked for Elba in 1814. There is a line
modern Romanesque church (1883-1887). Along the sea-shore are
Boulevards, extending for 3 miles, one of them (the Boulevard Felix-
Martin) leading to Boulouris (see below).
From St. Raphael to Hyeres, 5IV2 M. , railway in 33/4 hrs. Cfares
10 fr. 20, 5 fr. 60 c). This new line, which has a station at (2 M.) Fr^jti$
(p. 445), crosses the Argens and skirts the gulf of Frejus. To the right
is the chain of the Maures (p. 444). — 5 M. Roquehrune - St. Aygulf ^ char-
mingly situated, with numerous villas. Between (7 31.) La GaUlarde and
(9i/o M.) La Garonnette the line passes round the Cap des J.inambres.^ which
separates de bays of Frejus and of St. Tropez. 11 M. La NartelU ; 131/2 M-
file. Maxime ^ with several villas, picturesquely situated in the valley of
the Pre'coniou. — I71/2 M. Grimaud^ a little town built round the slopes of
a pyramidal hill which is crowned by a ruined castle of the Grimaldi
family. — From (18l/-j M.) La Foiix, a branch-line diverges to the left to
f3 M.) St. Tropez (Hot. Continental)., a small fortress with a citadel com-
manding the gulf. — Our line now quits the sea, ascends past Oassin (on
a hill to the left) to 231/3 M.) La Croix, and descends to (271/2 M.) Cara-
laire (Hot. Slartel, plain), admirably situated on the gulf of that name.
Skirting again the sea, we pass Le Canadel, Cavaliere, and La Fossette, beyond
which we reach the pretty village of (38 M.) Le Lavandoti (on the left, the
peninsula of Cape Benat). Beyond (39 M.) Bormes, a little town domi-
uated by a ruined castle, the line intersects woods of Aleppo pines and
cork-trees and approaches the wide gulf of Hveres, aflording a fine view,
on the left, of the lies d'Hyeres. 45 BI. La Londe; 47 M. St. Nicolas-Maii-
vanne; 51 M. JJyeres-Ville ; Sll/o M. Ilykres-Echange (p. 442).
The next part of the line is very picturesque, passing through
the red and grey rocks of the Mw^tx Esterel, close to the blue sea.
The Esterel is an isolated mo\intain-group of volcanic formation, with
forests of cork and pine belonging to government. The highest point, Mont
Vinaigre (1820 ft., fine view) may be ascended from the Auberge de I'Es-
terel, on the high road, IOI/2 M. from Frejus, III/2 M. from Cannes.
102 M. La Boulerie or Boitlouri.'i (Grand-Hotel) is more sheltered
tliaii St. Raphael. — lOo M. Aijay, the Agathon of Ptolemy, has a
small harbour and a well sheltered roadstead. Reyond (112 M.j Le
Trayas is a tunnel, '/a M. long. 115 M. The'oule. To the right the gulf
of La Xapoule, and its ruined castle. To the left, a valley in which
(irasse (p. 450) and its railway are seen with the Alps in the distance.
120'/2 M. Cannes, see p. 448.
124 M. (iolfe-J uan-YiiUnuris , with a column to commemorate
the landing of Napoleon I. on his return from Elba in 1815. To
the right, the Cap d' Antihes (see below).
126 m. Juan-les- J'his. wliere an attempt has been made; to es-
tablish another winter resort and bathing place.
127 M. Antibes {Hotel des Aigles-dOr, Rue Thuret), a finely sit-
uated and fortified town of 6461 inhab.. and a small seaport. It is
to Ventimiglia. VEjSTIMIGLIA. V. Route 65. 447
the ancient Atitipolis, a colony of the Massilians , founded to resist
the Liguriaii invasions. From this point there is a magnificent view-
as far as Nice, with its amphitheatre of mountains, snow-clad except
in summer. The harbour is protected on tlie exposed side by a break-
water. 1540 ft. in length, constructed by Vauban.
The Cap d' Antibes or de la Oaroupe is a peninsula about 21/2 M. long,
with luxuriant vegetation. La Garotipe (24.5 ft.), with a pilgrimage-chapel
and a lighthouse, may be ascended in •"4 hr. from Antibes. In this di-
rection is the Villa Thuret with a garden in connection with the Jardin
<les Plantes in Paris, open on Tuesdays. Near the end of the peninsula,
about 2V 2 51. from Antibes, are several villas, one with the curious tomb
iif James Close, an Englishman. Another is the Hotel du Cap, to which
the nearest station is Juan-les-Pins (p. 446).
The country traversed now becomes more beautiful. AN'e cross
the Brague and the Loup, and leave the coast. — 132 M. Vence-
Cagnes. Vence is a small town with an old cathedral, 6 M. to tlio
N. ; Cagnes: . 1'4M. in the same direction, is crowned by an old
castle of the Gvimaldis. — We next cross the Yar, an impetuous
torrent which formed the frontier of France until the annexation of
Nice. To the right is the Nice race-course. — ISSVz yor.
140 M. Nice {Btiffet, d^j. 3 , D. 4 fr.). see p. 450.
The line passes through a tunnel 650 yds. long under the Cimiez
hill and crosses the Paillon. — 141 M. Kiquier. a suburb of Nice.
A tunnel of 1630 yds. passes under the Montalban.
142 m. Villefranche (Hotel de I'Vnivers). an uninteresting town
and naval station of 4299 inhab., but beautifully situated between
well wooded heights, with a famous roadstead.
-V boat may be taken from Villefranche to the bay of Passable (75 c.
2 pers. 1 fr.), from which the peninsula of St. Jean may be crossed to the
village of St. Jean (see below 1.
The line next crosses the N. end of the St. Jean peninsula , and
skirts the coast. — 143V2 ^^- BeauJieu (Hotel des Anglais ;BeaulieiO.
situated amid plantations of figs and olives, oranges and lemons.
Beaulieu is situated on a wide bay, shut in on the S. by the long
St. Jean Peninsula, at the beginning of which is the village of <S(. Jean
(Inn, dear),35min. from Beaulieu (omnibus, 60 c.). Tunny fishing is carried
on during February, March, and April. — At the end of the peninsula
are the ruins of the Chapel of St. Hospice, and of a Saracenic fortress
destroyed in 1706.
145 M. Eza. At the (1 hr.) village on a steep hill are remains
of walls and a castle. To the right is the fortified Cap d'Aglio.
-- 147 M. Tnrbia (p. 456). To the .S. of the village is the Tower
of Augustus, one of the trophies erected in memory of the subjection
of the Ligurians, A. D. 13. To tlie Tete-de-Chien and Mont Agel.
see p. 457. As we approch Monaco, there is a fine view to the right
of the rock on which the town stands. In the distance is Bordighera.
149 M. Monaco, see p. 456. There is another fine view from
the following viaduct. Below is La Condamine.
150'/2M. Monte-Carlo, immediately below the Casino, see p. 457.
152 M. Cabhe- Roquehrune. The large village of Roijuehrune
or Roccabnma stands on a height to the left, in the midst of rich
448 V. Route 66. CANNES.
plantations of oranges and lemous. Above are the ruins of a castle.
A tunnel of 600 yds. passes through the Cap Martin (p. 459).
154 M. Mentone, see p. 457. The town lies to the right. The
jsmall torrent of St. Louis, about half-way between this and the next
s-tation, marks the frontier. We cross the Eoya.
156 M. Ventimiglia, Fr. yintimille {Buffet, dear; Hutel des
Voyageurs , etc., at the station), a fortified town of 8500 inhab.,
picturesquely situ<ated on a hill, beyond the Roya. On the top are
the Cathedral, of no great interest, and the Municipio. The Rue
Craribaldi, in the upper town, will interest those who have not yet
visited Italy. It leads to the Purte de Nice whence it is continued
by the Corniche road. Turning to the right at this gate, and then
keeping to the left, we ascend in ^4 hr. to the ruins of the 13th cent,
castle of Appio, from which there is a fine view, as there is also
from several points in the town and from the road passing round
the promofory. — The French and Italian custom-houses are both
;it Ventimiglia. Italian time is 45 min. in advance of that of Paris.
Railway to (78 M.J Genoa, see Baedeker's Northern Italy.
66. Cannes and its Environs.
Hotels, miuards ul' lifty in number, (»(' which the principal unly
need be mentioned (most of the larger ones have lifts). On the ^Y. side
,if the toicn: *Hotel de l'EsTerel (PI. B, 4); *Beau-Site (PI. B, 4); *Hot.
Hellevue (PI. C, 4); Pens, de la Tour (PI. A, 4). Nearer the sea, *H6t.
DU Pavili.on (PI. C, 5); Hot. des Princes (PI. D, 5) , well spoken of, I>.
5 fr. ; Hot. de la Terrasse (PI. 0, 5); Hot. du Square-Brougham (PI. C,5) ;
H. DE LA Terrasse (PLC, 5).
On the E. side of the town: Splendid Hotel (PI. E, 5); Beau-Rivagb
(PI. E, 5); (tray & d'Albion (PI. F, 5), well spoken of; Gonnet & de la
Reine (P1.F,o); Gk.-H. de Cannes (PI. F, 5) ; de la Plage (P1.F.5), well
.•spoken of. Farther from the sea: Continental (PI. D, 4); *H.-P. Suisse
(PI. E, 5), board 8 fr. : Bristol (Central; PI. E, 4). near the railway-station;
DU Louvre (P1.E,4); DE laPaix (PI. E, F,4); Pens. Bel-Air (Pl.BTd);
DE France (PL E, 4); Westminster (PI. F, 3); Windsor (PL G,4);
Bbau-Sejour (PLG.4); *St. Charles (PL G, 5), moderate.
In the Campagne: Beaulieu (PL D, 3); *d'Alsace-Lorrainb (Pl.E, 4);
Richemont (PL F, 3); Hotel des Anglais (PLF, 3), well spoken of; *Pei.'s.
DE Lerins; *Montfleuki (PL G, 4); Gr.-H. de la Californie (PL H, 5),
on Mont Californie; duParadis (PLF, 2); de Hollande (PL F, 2) : de Pro-
vence (PL F, 3); *Prince de Galles (PL F, G, 2, 3), with a large garden.
.•liieCa«»e(, 1V4M. to theN. of the station ; Grande Bret agne (PL E, 1).
Most of the hotels are closed in summer. The Hotels Gonnet & de la
Reine, Beau-Riyage , National & des lies, de I'Univers, des Colonies &
des Negociants are open the whole year.
The charges at the pensions vary from 8 to 14 fr. per day, at the
larger hotels from 15 to 20 fr. and upwards. Furnished houses are easily
obtained , and there are also a few furnished flats. Engagements are usually
made for the whole season, from October to May, the rent being 3000 fr.
and \ipwards. Messrs. John Taylor <t Riddett, Rue de Frejus 43 & 45, are
ri'commended as agents. Cannes is considered a simiewliat e.-tpensive place.
Restaurants. Faisan Dore, Rue d'Antibes 18; .Splendid Hotel, see above;
Maisoti Dorre, Fran<;ais, Rue de laGare; La Reserve, Boul. de la Croiaette ;
Cafds. De la Paix , at the Hotel de Ville; des AlUes , des lies, in the
.\llees de la Liberie'; Casino; des Voyageurs; Riche ; etc. — Confectioner:
*Rtiinpetmayer, Boul. de Croisette, by the Cercle Nautique, dear.
CANNES. V. lioute 66. 449
Warm Saths. Baim <le Xotit ■ Daiiu , Rue tie laFoux: also in the
st'a-bathing cstablisliments.
Carriages. Within the tcnvn with one horse 1 t'r.. two horses 11 2 *>■.
per drive: 2 and 21 -^ fr. per hour: outside the town and at night dearer.
British Vice-Consul , Mr. John Taylnr. — IT.S, Consular Agent, J)r. T.
lie Valcoiirt.
Physicians, l)v. Frank; Dr. Bright; JJr. Batterghy ; Dr. Duke; Dr. de Val-
coiirt; Dr. Brandt; Dr. Blanc. — Dentist. Sfr. Fay (Anieriean), Rue Herman I.
- Chemists, dinner; Brearleii <t Bascoul; C'arleian. Rue d'Antibes 23.
English Churches. .S't. PauVf, Boul. du Cannet , services during the
season at 8.30. 11. and 3. in April and Jlay at 8, 11. and 3.30. — Chri.H Church,
Route de Frejus, at 8..30, 11, and 3. — Holy triuit!/. Rue dOustinolV, at 11
and 3. — St. George'.<i (Duke of Albany Memorial Chiirch), C'hemin de la
Californie; services at 8.30, 11, and 3. — Scottish Presbyterian Church,
Route de Frejus, service at 11 and 3.
Climate. Cannes is protected on the N.W. by the Esterel Mts. and on
theN. and X.E. by other ranges of hills, but the beach is somewhat ex-
posed to the Mistral. It is thus at times, particularly in spring, cooler and
more windy than Meutone or San Remo, but its winter-climate is usually
mild, equable, and dry. The warmest and most sheltered parts of Cannes,
and consequently those most suitable for patients with pulmonary com-
plaints, are the space between the X. side of the town and the village of
Le Cannet and Mont Californie to the N.E. Its comfortable accommodation,
its excellent drinking-water, and the numerous pretty drives in the vicinity,
have co-operated with its sheltered situation in making Cannes a most
popular winter-resort, especially among the upper classes.
Cannes, a rapidly increasing town with 20.000 inhab.. pictures-
quely situated on the Golfe de. Id Supoitle. consists chiefly of a
main street, parallel with which, along the coast, runs the Boule-
vard de la Craisette. terminating on the W. in the Alle'es de la
/L/berff'CPl. D,E, 5). a 'place" with promenades and fountains and a
marble Statue of Lord Brougham (d. at Cannes in 1868), who made
the reputation of the place by settling here in 1834. The best French
society is also well represented. The Hotel de Ville (PI. D. .5), a
liandsome edifice built in 1876. contains a Musee and library.
The old town lies at the foot of Mont Cheralier (PI. D, 5). on
which the parish-church rises, and from which the pier closing the
.*>. W. side of the harbour extends. Fine view from the top.
The Rue and Route de Fre'ju.s lead hence to the W., through the
[■^ngUsh Quarter, which extends to La Bocca. nearly 2 .M. from the
Hotel de Ville. The Villa Vallombrosa or Chateau des Tours
(PI. C, 4, 5), with a fine *Garden (adm. in afternoon or evening),
is the chief of the many fine villas in this quarter. Beyond the
villa a road diverges to the right to the (2 M.) Croix des Gardes
(540 ft.) , in the wood of that name (fine views). This road passes
above the Villa Eleonore-Loiiise (PI. B, 4), the first built at Cannes,
in which Lord Brougham resided.
Two other very favourite points of view near Cannes are the hill
of *La Californie (PI. I. 4: 765 ft.) . 2' ^ M. to the E. of the Hotel
de Ville , and *Le Pezou (PI. G . H , 1 ; 840 ft.) , 3 M. to the N. E..
with a new view-tower affording a most magnificent panorama.
Excursions. — To the *Ile8 de L^rins (comp. Plan), situated opposite the
Cap de la Croisette, the promontory which separates the G-olfe de la Na-
poule from the Gol/e Jouan, steamer hourly in the season. On Sainte
liaedcker. Southern France. 29
450 V. Route 67. NICE. Hotels.
Marguerite (20inin.; return-fare 2fr.), the largest of these, is situated
Fort Monterey^ in which "the man with the iron mask' was kept in close
confinement from 168S to 1698, and also well-known as the prison of
Marshal Eazaine (from 26th Dec. 1873 to the night of 9th Aug. 1874,
when he efl'ectert his escape). The island commands a fine survey of
Cannes and the coast. On the island of Ht. Honorat {1 hr. ; 3 fr.) rises a
monastery founded in 410, and now restored and occupied by Cistercian
monks. Adjacent is a stronghold or keep, built by the monks in 107.3-1190
as a refuge from pirates.
Walks or drives may be taken to the Hermitage of St. Cassien^ 21/2 M. from
the centre of Cannes, to the W., and io LaNapoule (-p. 446), 3 MT farther.
Throttle, a railway station fp. 446), II/4 M. farther, may also be reached
by steamer. — About 3 M. to the N.E . of Cannes , beyond La Californie
(p. 449), lies Vallauris ('Vallis aurea': PI. I, 3), a prettily situated village,
noted for its terracottas and artistic pottery. — About 71/2 M. to the N.W.
via La Bocca and (51/2 )I.) Pegomas (Hotel), is the large "village of Auri-
beau, whence the picturesque Oorges de la Siagne may be visited.
FnoM Cannes to Grasse, 121/.i M., railway in 35-40 min. (fares 2 fr. 45,
1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 25 e,); IO1/2 M. by road, omnibus (I1/2 fr.) in 21/2 hrs. — The
station of Grasse is about 13/4 M. from the town (omnibus 50 c.); short-
cuts for pedestrians. — Grasse (_G rand -Hotel; Muraour, well spoken of. —
Eng. Ch. Service in winter), a town of 12,157 inhab., is comparatively
uninteresting in itself, but it occupies a picturesque site among moun-
tains, open on the S. and sheltered from cold winds, so that it has be-
come a winter-resort for invalids unable to remain near the sea. The
mild climate encourages a luxuriant southern vegetation, in spite of the
altitude of the town (1070 ft.), and Grasse is the chief centre in Provence
for the manufacture of perfumes and essences. The various factories
consume in the month of May about 325,000 lbs. of roses and 350,000 lbs.
of orange-blossoms. Over 25,000 lbs. of roses are required to produce
a single litre of essence, which is sold for 2000-2500 fr. Other perfumes
are also made; and the export to Cologne alone is estimated at 500,000 fr.
annually. The chapel of the hospital contains three paintings by Rubens;
and the parish church (12-13th cent.) has an Assumption by Subleyras.
A public conveyance plies from Grasse to (6 M.) Le Bar, to the N.E.,
1/2 M. from which is the Gorge de Courmes, a curious ravine, 6 M. long,
in a limestone plateau. — Railway to Draguignan and Afeyrargues., see p. 427.
67. Nice and its Environs.
Hotels. In the Promenade des Anglais (PI. A-D, 5, 4): *H6tel des
Anglais, de Luxembourg, de la Mbditekeanee, *\VESTMiNsrER, *Wbstend,
all first-class and expensive. — By the Jardin Public (PI. D, 4): *Grande
Hretagne: *Anoletekke, R. from 4, D. 6, pension 12 fr.
On the Quai Masfrna (PI. D, E, 4): *H6t. de France, D. 6, B. 2,
A. Jfc L. 11/2 fr. — Qvai St. Jean -Baptiste (PI. E, F, 4, 3): *Cosmopolitan
Hotel, R. 5" L. & A. 2, 1). 6, omn. 2 fr. ; *Hot. de la Paix; *Grand Hotel.
In the Boulevard Carahacel (Pl. F, 2): Hot. de Paris; Hot. Bristol;
*H6t. de Nice, well situated, R. 5, D. 5-6, B. 13 4. lunch 3i/o, A. 1, L.
3/4 fr. — In the Boulevard Dubouchage (Pl. E, 3, 2): H(h. Julien; Hot.
d'Albion, pens. 10 fr. ; Hot. du Littoral; Hot. des Empereurs. — In the
Boulevard Victor-Hugo (Pl. C, D, 3): *Iles Britanni^ues; *H6t. Paradis:
Hot. de la Reine Victoria; Hot. du Louvre; Hot. des Palmiers; *Splen-
dide- Hotel. — In the Rue St. FAienne (Pl. C, D, 2, 3): *\\ut. Raissan;
Hot. -Pens. Milliet, pens, from 10 fr.
Place AfassMa (Pl. E, 4): Hot. Meuble du Helder. — Rue des Pon-
chettes (Pl. F, 4); *noT. des Princes, finely situated on the shore; adja-
cent, Hot. et Pens. Suisse. — In the Boulevard du Midi (Pl. E, F, 4):
Hot. Beaurivage, with beautiful view; Hot. Massena. — In the Old Town
(Pl. E, F, 4): *HdT. DES Etranoers, Rue du Pont-Neuf, frequented by pass-
ing travellers, R. from 21/2, D. 4 fr. ; Hot. des Negociants et Pens. St.
Etienne, Rue Pastorelli 21, R. 2, D. 31/21 L. V21 A. 1/2 fr., well spoken
lAsti^ EvangeliqiLe
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Cabs.
NICE.
V. Route 67. 451
of. — In the line de fiance (PI. A, D, 5, 4j : Hut. et Pens. Tarelli. — On
a hill to the X. of the town. Hut. St. Barthelemy, with park (omnibus to
the Avenue de la (jare and the Place Masse'na four times daily).
year the Station: *TERMi>fs Hotel, a large new house, with cafe', op-
posite the station: a little farther oft", in the Avenue de la Gare, Hot. Xa-
tiosal, also with cafe, less pretending, both frequented by passing tra-
vellers; Hot. Gilles & des Deux JIokke.s , Hot. de l'Univers, and Hot.
Priuce of Wales, same street. — In the Avenue Delphine (Pl.D, 2): Hot.
ii Rest, du Midi, moderate. — In the Avenue Durante^ 7, Hot. Richemont.
Most of the hotels are closed from the beginning of summer till the end
of Sept. or Oct. The Hotels del'Univers, des Etrangers , Terminus-Hot.,
Tarelli, Suisse. Xational, and de Geneve are open the whole year.
Pensions (all goodj. In the Promenade des Anglais : Pensions liivoir,
y. An'jlaise. Petite Rue St.Etienne; Pension Internationale^ P. de Geneve. At
Cimiez : P. Anglaise: P. Cimiez. Usual charge 8-14 fr. per day.
Restaurants. *Restaurant Fran^ais, Avenue de la Gare : "London
House. Itue Croix de Marbre. adjoining the Jardin Public, high charges:
*Garden House (in the Credit LyonnaisJ, Ca/e de la Regence, Caf( Ame-
ricain , Restaur. Xational, all in the Avenue de la Gare; Helder , Place
Massena : Rest, des Deux-Mondes. Rue du Temple; Aux Trois Suisses, Rue
Macarani : Rest, ilu Cours, in the Corso, modest, — On the coast, to the
E. of Nice, "Rest, de la Reserve (Pl.H, 5). — Beer: Taverne Gothique , *Ta-
verne Steinhoff, Avenue de la Gare; Taverne Russe (see below).
Caf4s. 'Cafe de la Renaissance, * Taverne Russe, both on the ground-
lloor of the Casino (p. 452); Caft' de la Regence, see above; Caf( de Paris,
Boul. Dubouchage. Ices; the best at *Runipelma7jer's, Boulevard Victor-
Hugo, dear. — Preserved Fruits : Mailer, Place St. Dominique; Fia and
Vogade, Place Masse'na; Portaz, Avenue de la Gare.
Sakers. Rem, Rue Paradis, German ; Diedrich, Place St. Etlenne, Russian.
Cabs stand in the Place j One-horse
Charles-Albert, Place Massena, ^yith 2 seats.
Boulevard du Pont-Vieux, etc'
day
-75
2-
3-
6 —
night
1.25
2.50
3.50
One-horse,
with 4 seats.
day
1-
2.50
3.50
7-
12-
15-
night
1.50
3-
4-
7 —
12-
15-
Two-horse,
with 4 seats.
day
1.50
2.50
4.50
10-
15-
20 —
night
2.50
Per drive of one hour in the
town, central division
Per drive of one hour within
the octroi limits of the town
Per drive of one hour within
the commune of Nice . .
To Villefranche, Montboron, Tri-
nite -Victor, Grotte St. Andri 6— 6— 7— 7— 10— 10 —
To Beaulieu 10 — 10 — | 12 — 12 — 1 15 — 15
To the Observatory on3/on<?ro.v 12— 12 — I 15 — 15 — 20 — ! 20
The fares for all these e.xcursions include a stay of 1/2 hr. and the drive
back. — Night is reckoned in winter from 7 p. m. to 7 a. m. When a cab is
taken by the hour, one full hour at least must always be paid for; but
fractions of hours after the first are charged pro rata. Small articles
of luggage free; larger, 25c. each.
Tramway (10 c.) from the Place Masse'na to the railway -station and
the harbour, and to the Pont Magnan every lOmin.; to St. Maurice and
to the Abattoir every 20min.; also from Pont Magnan to the Californie
(near the Var Bridge, where the races take place).
Omnibuses in various directions (10-25 c); from station to town 10 c;
trunk 25, hat-box 10 c. ; to Cimiez every hour , from Boulevard du Pont-
Neuf ; to Villefranche and Beaulieu every 2 hrs., 30 c, from Pont Vieux,
on left bank of the Paillon; to St. Andre and to St. Laurent-du-Var,
several times daily, from Boulevard du Pont-Neuf. — Brake to Monte Carlo
from Boul. du Pont-Xeuf 34, at 10 a. m. and 1.30 p. m.; from Monte Carlo
to Nice at 10 a.m. and 2.30 p.m.; fare 3, return o fr.
Donkey 4-5 fr. per day, attendant 1 fr. ; half-day 2-3 fr. — Horse 6-10 fr.
per half-day.
Public Iiihrarv (P1.6;E,4), Rue St. Fran^ois-de-Paule 2, open on week-
davs 9-12 and 2-4; it also contains a few Roman antiquities.
29*
452 V. Route 6*7. NICE. Amusementt>-.
Natural History Museum, Place Garibaldi 6; Tiies., Thurs., Sat., 12-3.
Post Office: Place de la Liberte (PI. E,F,3), open from 7 fin winter
S) a. 111. to 9 p. m. Hraneli-officps : Place Grinialdi9, Place Garibaldi 8. —
Telegraph Offices: Place de la Liberte, Place Grimaldi, Place Garibaldi 8,
and at the railway-station; tliese always open.
Physicians, Englisb : Dr. •Sturge, Boiil. Duboucliage 29; Dr. Ashmore-
Xoakes, Promenade des Anglais 5. German (speaking English]: Dr. Thieme,
Avenue de la Gare 42; Dr. Ziirc/ier, Rue JIassena 20. — Dentists: Williams
(American), Promenade des Anglais 11 ; Garcia (American), Preierre, both
in the Place Massena; A'lwcA:, Avenue de la Gare. — Chemists: Nicholls
<t Pass'eron ., Quai Masse'na; Grande PJiarmacie , Avenue de la Gare 35. •
Pliarin. Sue, same street, 18; Leoncini, Place St. Etienne; Banfo, Paie Giof-
IVedo. — Mineral -Waters : Claude, Rue JIassena 26; T/iaon, Rue GiolYredo.
British Consul: James Clias. Harris, Esq., Place Bellevue 4. — Amerioaa
Consul: Wm. II. Bradley, Esq., Rue d'Angleterre 2.
Bankers. Credit Lyonnais, Avenue de la Gare i3bis(a palatial edifice);
Mine. La Croix d: Co., Jardin Public 1; Carlone, Quai BlassenaS; Caisse de
Credit, Rue Gubernatis 1; SociHe GeiUrale, Rue Gioft'redo G4.
Baths. Warm Baths: Bains Polythermes, Rue St. Frangois-de-Paule 8;
Mains des Qnatre Sai.$ons , Place du Jardin Public 8; Bains, Avenue de la
Gare 20; Bains, Place de la Liberie; Bains Macarani , Rue Maearani 6;
Bains Massena, Rue JIasse'na 3. Turkish Baths: Ilammam de Nice, Rue
de la BuiTa 2. — Sea-baths opposite the Promenade des Anglais and at the
Quai du Midi, 1 I'r. (including attendant).
Booksellers. Baitdry, Jeamont , <£• Cie. (Galignani), Quai Masse'na 16;
Barbery, with lending library, .lardin Public 5; Visconii , large reading-
room with newspapers of every country and lending library. Rue du
Cours 2, with garden ; Z<i6)-a:>je Nouvelle , Quai St. Jean-Baptiste. The Nice
Library, at the Scottish church, contains about 4000 English books. —
Shops. The best are on the Quai St. Jean-Baptiste and the Quai Massena.
'JIarqueterie' (inlaid wood-work): Gimmelle I'ils & Co., Quai St. Jean-Bap-
tiste 9; Rueger, Rue du Pont-Neuf3, and others. Photographers: Am-
brosetti. Avenue Beaulieu; Ferret, Rue Gio0redo; Lucchesi, Avenue de la
Gare (photograplis of Nice).
Amusements. ''Casino Municipal (Pl. E, 4), a grand establishment vi^ith
a tasteful winter -garden; concerts daily at 4.30 and 8 (adm. li/.i fr. per
day; less for subscribers); theatre (for operettas, comedies, and comic
operas: fauteuil d'orehestre 5, stalle d'orchestre 31/2 fr.). — Cercle de la
Mediterran^e , a handsome building, Promenade des Anglais; Cercle
Philharmonique, Rue du Pont-Xeuf. Concerts and lectures are given during
tlie season in the Salle Rnmpelmayer (^4thena;um'), Boulevard Victor-Hugo.
~ Theatres. T/iMire Municipal (PI. i2; E, F, 4), a handsome building on
the site of one burnt down in 1881, for operas (fauteuil d'orehestre G fr.);
Theatre du Casino, see above: Theatre Fran^ais, Rue de I'Hotel-des-Postes,
operettas, comedies, etc. — Circus, Rue I'astorelli. — Arines, Avenue de
la Gare prolongee, devoted to bloodless bull-fights. — Horse Races in Jan-
uary and February; Regattas in Jlarch or April; Carnival during 8-10
days. — Music daily, e.xcept Mon., in the Jardin Public, 2-4 o'clock.
Apartments. Houses and apartments to let , indicated by tickets, are
easily found, best with the aid of a hcnise -agent. A doctor should be
consulted as to situation, etc. A single visitor may procure 1-2 furnished
rooms for the winter for 250-700 fr.: suites of apartments are let for
1000-5000 fr., villas for 3000-8000 fr. and upwards. The contract (on stamp-
ed paper) should specify the condition of furniture, linen, wall-papers, etc.,
as disputes are apl to arise on the termination of the lease. Land-
lords sometimes make e.xorbitant demands on tlie death of one of their
guests, in which case the aid of the autluuities should be invoked. Nice
is reputed an e.xpensive place, but it is possible to live here, as in other
large towns, cheaper than at Cannes or Mentone. The pensions at a dis-
tance from the sea, but in well-sheltered spots, are comparatively moderate.
English Churches in the Rue de France (PI. 25, D. 4); Christ Church
(PI. 26, E, 2); at Carabacel St. MichaeVs (PI. 25, E, 3), Rue St. Michel. —
Climate. NICE. T'. Route 67. 453
American Church, Boul. Victor-Hugo 21. — Scottish Church (PI. 27, D, .3),
Rue St. Etieiine (libravv, see above). — French Protestant Church (PI. 28.
E, 31. Rue Gioflredo 50."
Climate. The hay of Nice is sheltered from the N., N.E., and N.W.
winds by the lower terraces of the Maritime .\lps (culminating in ifont
Chaure , Ital. Monte Calvo , 2670 ft.), a natxual barrier to which it uwes
its far-famed mildness of climate. The mean winter temperature is 10-15"
Fahr. higher than that of Paris, summer temperature 5-10° lower. Frost
is rare. The neighbourhood of the broad and stony channel of the Paillon
is apt to be rather draughty. The coast is somewhat exposed to the E. and
W. winds. In March and .\pril the E. wind not unfrequently prevails, and
is usually most trying to delicate persons about midday, when the clouds of
dust it raises in the Promenade des Anglais have often given rise to com-
plaints. Owing, however, to the depth of the basin in which Nice is en-
sconced, it is easy to find inland quarters beyond reach of these drawbacks.
The most sheltered situations are the Koulevard Carabacel and the Quar-
tiers Hrancolar and Cimiez, in the last of which the air is generally pure
and free from diist. There are three distinct climatic zones; the coast,
the plain, and the hills. .Sunset is a critical period. The moment the sun
disappears, the atmosphere becomes damp and chilly, but this moisture
lasts 1-2 hours only. The rainy season begins early in October and lasts
about a month. The dry, warm, and at the same time bracing climate of
Nice is specially beneficial for chronic invalids, if free from fever and
pain, for convalescents, and for elderly people, while the town afl'ords
greater comfort and variety than any other place on the Riviera. — Good
drinking-water is supplied by the water-works. — Reports of the observ-
ations made at the Meteorological Station, founded in 1877, are posted up
on the band-kiosk in the Jardin Public.
Sice, Ital. .\izza. the capital (77.500 iiihab.) of the French de-
partment of the Alpes Maritime^, was foumlcd by the Phocaean iu-
liabitaiits of Marseilles in the 5th cent. B.('., and named Xikaea.
Down to 1388 it belonged to the County of Provence; then to the
Dukes of Savoy; in 1792 it was occupied by the French, in 1814
restored to Sardinia, and in 1860 annexed to France together with
Savoy. Nice was the birthplace of the French Marshal Massena
(1758-1817,1 and of Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-1882). The dialect of
the natives is Italian with a mixture of Provencal.
In winter Nice is the rendezvous of invalids and others from all
parts of Europe, who seek refuge here from the rigours of winter.
The season begins with the races (p. 452) early in January, and closes
with a great regatta at the beginnitig of April; but visitors abouiul
from October until the end of May. In summer the place is deserted.
Nice is superbly situated on the broad Bate des Anges. which
opens towards the S.. at the mouth of the insignificant Paglione, or
Paillon. The broad and stony bed of the stream, flanked with hand-
sonu- quays, bisects the town. On the left bank is the Old Town.
with narrow, dirty lanes, which have been replaced by better streets
near the shore (Uoulevard du Miili and Promenade du Cours). On
the right bank is the Strangers' Quarter, bounded on the W. by
the brook Magxmi. and on the N. by the railway.
From the station, near which there is a beautiful avenue of
eucalypti (Eucalyptus globulus), the Avenue de la Gare leads to
the town, passing the modern Gothic church of Sotre-Daive (PI. 19).
by Lenormant. — A Marble Cross in the Rue de France, commemor-
454 V. Route 67. NICE. Castle Hill.
ating the meeting of Charles V. and Francis I. in 1538, effected by
Pope Paul III., has given its name (Croix de Marbre) to this quarter
of the town. Opposite rises a 'Pius Column' . On a spacious site
built over the Paillon, close to the Pont-Neuf, is the Casino Muni-
ripal (PI. E, 4), with its fine winter-garden, and showy cafes on the
ground-floor (p. 451). — Behind it, on a similar site, is the SauARE
Massena (PI. E, F, 4), embellished with a Statue of Massind
(p. 453) in bronze, by Carrier-Belleuse; on the pedestal in front Clio
writes the marshal's name on the page of history ; at the sides are
reliefs. — A handsome new Square has recently sprung up at the
lorner of the Boulevard Victor-Hugo and the Boulevard Gambetta.
The Jardin Public (PI. D, 4; band, see p. 452), at the mouth of
the Paillon, and the ^Promenade des Anglais adjoining it on the
W. , originally laid out by English residents in 1822-24, and since
extended, are the principal resorts of visitors. These grounds stretch
along the coast, and are bordered with palatial hotels and villas.
At the beginning of them is the Cercle de la Me'diterrane'e (p. 452).
Farther on, a little aside, is the interesting Panorama de Nice (PI.
37; B, 4; adm. 1 fr.). The promenade is prolonged beyond the brook
Magnan (PI. A, 5) to Califomie, a point of view 2'/2 M. distant.
To the S.E. of the town rises the Castle Hill (PI. F, G, 4; 320 ft. ;
ascent from the N., E., or S.W. side, 20 min. ; the S.W approach is
by a flight of steps from the Rue des Ponchettes), crowned with a
ruined castle destroyed by the Duke of Berwick under Louis XIV.
in 1706. The ruins are now converted into beautiful groiinds, where
palms, oranges, cypresses, and aloes flourish in profusion. The plat-
form on the summit, with an artificial waterfall, commands an ad-
mirable view in every direction: S. the Mediterranean; W. the coast,
the promontory of Antibes, the lies de L^rins, the mouth of the Var,
and Nice at our feet; N. the valley of the Paillon, the monasteries
of Cimiez and St. Pons, the distant castle of St. Andre, Mont Chauve,
the Aspremont, and the Alps; E., the ancient Tort Montalban, and
and the promontory of Montboron (p. 455). The S. slope of the castle-
hill, which descends precipitously to the sea, is called the liauba
Capeu ('hat-robber', owing to the prevalence of sudden gusts).
- Gambetta (d. 31st Dec. 1882) is buried in the Cimetiere du
Chateau, on the N. side of the castle-hill.
On the E. side of the castle-hill lies the Harbour (PI. G, H, 4,
5), called Limpid from an excellent spring (linipida) near the E.
pier. The Place Bellevue was embellished in 1830 with a marble
Statue of Charles Feli.r, King of Sardinia, founder of the harbour.
To the N. of the town are tiie villas Chateau Neuf, Orangini, and
Valrose, all in the Quartier Hraneolar. In the Quartier St. Philippe is
the Villa Bermond, with its 10,000 orange-trees, where Nicholas, Crown
I'rinee of Russia, died in 18G5. The site of the room in which he died
is ndw occupied by a chapel fPl. H, 1).
Environs, — The Franciscan ninnastery of Cimiez, Ital. Ciiaella (pen-
sions, see p. 451), to which a line boulevard leads from the (Quartier
Carabacel, is situated II/2 M. to the N. of Nice (see plan of town, E,
f^ravo et imprime pax
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F, 1 & 2, and adjacent map). The monastery (to which men only are
admitted, though ladies may visit the chapel, which contains two pictures
liy Brea). erected in 1450, stands on the foundations of a temple of Diana
di' the Roman town of Cemenvliuiu, of which part of an Amphitheatre (210 ft.
long, 180 ft. wide), a quadrangular structure called a Temple of Apollo,
and traces of baths and other buildings have been discovered.
The Villa Clary, below Cimiez, on the St. Andre road, boasts of the
linest orange and lemon-trees at Nice and many rare plants.
A good road ascends on the right bank of the Paillon to the (40 miu.)
monastery of St. Pons, founded in 77") iin the spot where St. Pontius, a
Roman senator. sulVered martyrdom in 261. It was destroyed by the Sara-
cens in 970, and the present edifice date.s from the 18th century. The
treaty by which the County of Nice was annexed to the Duchy of Savoy
was concluded here in 138S. [This excursion may be combined with a
visit to Cimiez (see above) by taking the road from St. Pons to Cimiez
through the olive-groves on the hill.] — We may also visit ('/o hr. more)
tlie chateau of St. Andr6, built in 1687, now unoccupied. Farther up the
valley (V4 lir.) is the small grotto Les C'luses de &t. Andre (adm. 50 c),
or rather a natural bridge over the brook. An avenue of cypresses leads
thither from the chateau.
From the Grotto of St. Andre we may follow the Torretta road through
tlie rocky ravine a little farther, and ascend to the left by a winding
road to the village of Falicon, the highest point of which affords an ad-
mirable view. — From Falicon we may return by the road to the S. to
Nice (or by the shorter, but steep and less interesting path via Cimiez),
iir follow the good road towards the N., with line views, to the Chapel
iifSt. Sebaatian, whence we make the ascent of the Monte Chauve d'Aspremont
(2780 ft.). which commands an excellent survey of the valley of the Var
and of tUe Alps. On the steep W. side lies the village of Aspremont,
9 31. from Nice.
Farther up the valley of St. Andre, 7 31. from Nice, lies the antiquated
village of La Tourette (Ital. Torretta), with a picturesque ruin, which
commands a very striking survey of the sterile mountain scene, 3Iont
Chauve, Aspremont. and ("hateauneuf , perched on a ban en ridge of
rock, with 3Iontallian and the sea to the S. About 3 31. to the N.E. is
the village of Chateauneuf, which is said to have been built in the 15th
and 16th cent, by the inhabitants of Nice as a refvige from Turkish in-
vaders, but is now almost deserted owing to the want of water. This
is another splendid point of view.
To the \V. of Nice is the (I'/j hr.) Vallon Obscur, a ravine about
500 yds. long, reached via .S(. liarthelemy. .Vnotlier pleasant walk may be
taken in the valley of the Magnan (p. 4.53). in which a road ascends to
(2 31.) the church of La Madeleine. — To the Mouth of the Var (p. 447) is
a whole day's excursion; carriage and pair, 20-25 fr.
To the E. of Nice stretches a cliain of heights, easily accessible. The
nearest to the sea is Montboron (9.50 ft.; IV2 I'^ii "'e fortified promontory
separating Nice from Villefranche. On its slope runs the beautiful road
to (3 31.) Villefranche (p. 447: see PI. H,4), with the conspicuous Villa
Smith, a palatial red building in the Oriental style (carr., p. 451 ; rowing-
boat 10 fr.). To the left ascends the *Route Forestiere de 31ontboron. —
If we follow the Villefranche road for 11/2 31. more, a road on the right,
crossing the railway by a stone-bridge, will lead us to (8/4 31.) Beaulieu
(p. 447). Thence to St. Jean, see p. 447. — Montalban (1085 ft.), ascended
in 1/0 hr. from Montboron by the Route Forestiere, is crowned by a fort.
— The Vinaigrier (1215ft.). so called, it is said, from tlie sour wine it
produces, is ascended by the old road in U ., hr., or bv a new road round
.Alont Gros in 21/2-3 hrs. — On tlie Mont Gros (1220 ft.). 3 31. to the N., on
the Route de la Corniehe (see below), is a tine Observatory (no admission).
From Nice to 3IEUT0NE via the Route dk i.a Corniche, 19 31. (5-6 hrs.
on foot; by carr.. in 4 hrs., 3i5-45 fr., 2-3 fr. gratuity). This fine road,
constructed under Napoleon I., traverses the most beautiful part of the
Riviera, and is far preferable to the railway. (As the drivers prefer the
456 V. Route 67. NICE.
new road, which is less picturesque, it is well to stipulate expressly
for the Corniche route.) The road sweeps round the Mont Oros (see above)
and approaches the sea, with a view, to the right, of Villefranche, Beau-
lieu, and the wooded promontory of St. Jean (p. 447). On the right
appears Eza fp. 447), a group of venerable houses, perched on a pre-
cipitous isolated rock. About 3/^ Ji. beyond the culminating point of
the road, where a path diverges un the right to Monaco, we reach (11 M.)
TurMa (p. 447). Ilere a delightful view is enjoyed, embracing the
wild mountains to the E., the entire coast, and the sea. The road now
descends, passing to the riglit o( Jioqiiebrtine or Eoccabrtma (p. 447), com-
manding a continuous beautiful view of Mentone and the coast as far
as Bordighera. Mentone^ see p. 458.
From Xice to St. Martin-Lantosque, SGi/o M., diligence every night,
in 91/2 hrs., besides halts (3, 21/2 fr.). — The road leads to the K. via St.
Andre (p. 455), and traverses an uninteresting valley. — 131/2 M. Lerens (Qua-
ranta), an ancient village, on a height above the Vhuhie. which joins the Var
11/2 M. farther down, "immediately below the *Defil(' de VEchaiidan, a
gorge 31/2 BI. long, between precipitous rocks 1300 ft. in height. — We
now ascend the picturesque Valley nf the V^svbie ^ via (18 M.) IJiiramis,
Utelle , and St. Jean-de-la- Riri'ere ^ whence the Brec/i (5260 ft.: view) may
be ascended in 4 hrs. via the Col du GinesU. — 25 M. Le Siichet. — 28 M.
Lantosque (Hot. des Etiangers). Beyond La BoVene is Belredhe (2800ft.;
Hotel Franco), whence the Afont-Clapier (9100 ft.), one of the finest points
of view in the Maritime Alps, mav be ascended in 8V2 hrs. — Bevond
(311/2 M.) Roquebilliere a road to the left leads to (7 M.) Berthemont (Hotels),
a summer station with a sulphureous spring. Farther on, also on the
left, is Ve?mnso7)^ a little town in a picturesque situation. — 361/2 M. St.
Martin - Lantosque (3115 ft.; Hotel des Alpes ; Eng. Ch. Service in winter),
at the confluence of tlie two streams forming the Ve'subie, a place grow-
ing in favour as a summer-resort from Nice. Many interesting excursions
and ascents (guide. Bapt. Plent) may be made hence: to the (2 hrs.)
Cascade du Borreon (115 ft. in height), formed by the stream which descends
on the N. ; to the Madone de Fenestre (3600 ft.), a pilgrim resort, 21/0 hrs.
to the N. E. , beyond the frontier, surrounded by an amphitheatre of
mountains comprising the Caval, Neiglier, Ponset, C'olomb , and Gelas;
to the (2 hrs.) Combe de SaUze, to the left of the Borreon valley; to the
Tete de Piagii (7685 ft.) and the Tete de la Faiw (6990 ft.), to the left and
right of the route to the Madone (21/2 hrs. each); to the (Si/o hrs.) Sirol
(6610ft.), on the S.-W., beyond Venanson (see above); etc.
From Nice to Puget-Theniers, 40 M., diligence via the Vallet/ of the
Var. — Beyond (16 M.) St. Martin -du- Var is the Defile de V Echaudan (see
above), followed by another gorge worn by the impetuous tributaries of
the Var. — 40 M. Puget-Th6niers (Croi.v de Malte) , with 1215 inhab. , on
the Var, is of little interest to the tourist. — To Digne, see p. 371.
From Nice to Tknua (Cwien), 51 M. , diligence (Hot. de TUnivers,
p. 450) in 101/2 hrs. (9, 7 fr.). The road ascends the valley of (he Paillon,
to the N. - 51/2 M. la Triniti' ■ Vittoria. 12 M. L'Escarine , Ital. Scarena
(Hotel), an interesting old place, with some quaint liuildings. The route
becomes picturesque" Bevond (131'-. M.) Toiiet-de V Kscarine we cross the
Col de Bravs (3280 ft.) — 251/2 M. "Sospel, Ital. Snspello (1175 ft.; ndtel
Carenco), with 3695 inhab., on t"he Bevera. To Mentone, see p. 459. The
road now ascends to tlie Col di Broiiis (2870 ft.; line view). Beyond
Breil or Breglio (Inn) we ascend the vallev of the Roya. — 32 M. Giandola
(1250 ft.: Hotel). The French custom-house is at (43 M.) Fonian. At (48 M)
S. Dalmazzo-di -Tenda (Hotel des Princes) an old abbey, fitted up as a
hydropathic estalilishment , attracts visitors from Nice. — 51 M. Tenda
(2680 ft. ; -1/6. Nazionale)^ a small town with the Italian custom-house.
— The road pen( trates the Col di Tenda by means of a tunnel, about
21/2 M. long, lighted by electricity. A diligence plies hence to (35 M.)
Cuneo or Coni (iiarra di Ferro), see Baedeker's Northern Italy.
457
68. Monaco and Mentone.
a. Monaco.
Hotels. — At Monaco: Hotel dk Nice, at the station; de la Paix, near
the palace, pens. 7 fr. — At Monte Carlo: Gisand-IIotel Continektal, pa-
latial and expensive, especially during the season (I5th Dec. to end of
April); ilot. DE Pari.s, also on a grand scale; Hotel Metkopole, new;
at the same height Hotel des Anulais, smaller but not much cheaper,
and Hot. i>es Colonies ; farther up. Hot. de Lohdises, Hot. Mkrmet, and
Hot. de Kussie; still higher, Victoria (chiefly English). — To the E.,
at Les Moulins: Hot. ue la Terrasse, first class, well spoken of; Maison
JIeiblee Ravel; Hot. dv Parc; Hot. de l'Europe. — On the Avenue de
Monte Carlo, leading to Condamine : Gkakd-Hot. Monte Carlo, well
spoken of, and Hot. Beaurivage, two large houses; Hot. des Prikces.
— At Condamine, i/o M. to the W. of Slonte Carlo : *H6t. des Etranoers,
unpretending, R. 21/21 D. 3 fr. ; Hot. d'Angleterre ; *H6t. des Baiks;
Hot. Bristol; Beau-Sejoir: Beau-Site; Coj;dami>:e; London House; etc.
Charges lower than at Monte Carlo; but the drains here are sometimes
unpleasant. — 'Cafe Riche.
Carriages: drive IV21 hour 3 fr. To Nice and back, with 3 lirs. hall,
25 fr. : bargain beforehand.
English Physicians: Dr. Pickering, Villa Shakspeare; Dr. Fitz-Gerahl,
Villa Ca/.anovo; Dr. J'ri/ce Mitchell, Villa Henri. — Dentist: Mr. Ash.
British Vice-Consul, M/-. Julirard Smith. — ilmerican Consular Agent,
Mr. Emile de Loth. Pankers, Lii Croi.r ; Banqne J'opulaire ; Smith <t' Co.
English Church; chaplain. Rer. J. Ilaimes, M. A.
Both Monaco and ■'NlOnte ('arlo boloiig politically to the diminu-
tive principality of Monaco (0^/4 .sq. M. , which included Mentone
and lioccabnina down to 1848). governed by sovereign princes of the
house of Grimaldi. Monaco illotel de la Paix . moderate charges;
Pension Villa Lessep.s). the capital, with 2900 inhab., is most pic-
turesquely situated on a bold and prominent rock (station . see
below). The palace (shown Tues.. Thurs., and Sat., 2-5 p.m.) con-
tains sumptuous apartments . adorned with frescoes , and has a fine
garden. Pleasant promenades extend round the rocky point, with a
fine view of the sea -coast to the E.. particularly by evening -light.
-■Vn omnibus (30 c.) plies hence to Monte Carlo, which may be reachcl
on foot in 20-30 min. via La Condamine, a handsome new quarter of the
town, with the railway-station.
Monte Carlo Is a health-resort in winter and a sea-bathing place
in summer, but the chief attraction to many is the 'tapis vert' at the
Casino, which stands on a promontory to the E. of the town, in beati-
tiful grounds commanding a fine view. The establishment is lu-
xuriously fitted up aiul is adorned with works of art (in the concert-
hail paintings by Fei/en-Perrin, Homer and Poetry; in the vestibule
landscapes by Jvndt). Outside are statues of Music, by Sarah Bern-
hardt, and Dancing, by Gitstave Dore'. Tickets of admission (after
midday) gratis on presenting a visiting-card at the office, to the left
in the vestibule. Music twice daily (from 15th Dec); classical con-
certs on Thursdays, from 2.30 to 4. In 1888 over 450,000 travellers
visited Monte Carlo.
Excursions mav be made hence to (IV-' hr.) Tiirbia (p. 447); in 11 '•> hr.
from Turbia to the THe-de-Chien (1880 ft.)," the rock to the W. of Monaco;
and in 2V-' hrs. from Turbia to Mont Agel (3770 ft.), a fine view-point
to the N.E."
458 r. Route 68. MENTONE.
b. Mentone.
Hotels and Pensions. The larger hotels have hydraulic lifts and
heated corridors and staircases, and send omnibuses to the station. The
charge for a room with southern aspect varies from 21/2 to 6 fr. ; pension
(R., A., B. , lunch, and D, excl. wine) from 6 to 15 fr. per day. On the
\V. Bay. Cl.) At some distance from the sea: ■'Hotel Natio>al, finely
.situated, *Ii>es BRITA^•^'lQUES, both expensive; *Hot. du Louvre, with
garden, pension 9-12 fr. ; ^Hot. des Ambassadeu'es; Hot. Victoria & des
Princes : Hot. de Ge>eve; Hot. de Venise & Continental; *Hot. d'Orient,
with garden ; *H6t. des Alpes; Hot. de JIalte; Hot. de Turin. On the
Avenue de la Gare and the Turin road: Hot. du Parc. To the N. of the
station: Pension des Grangers, Pens. Confortable, Hot. d'Albion, and
Hot. Cosmopolitain (in a high situation). — (2) In the Promenade du
Jlidi, Route Rationale, Avenue Vietor-Emanuel, and Rue St. Michel, near
the sea: Hot. du Pavillon du Prince de Galles, beyond the \V. end
of the town; Hot. St. Georges; Splendide-Hot. ; Hot. de Londres ; *H6t.
de la Condamike; Hot. de Russie & d'Allemagne; ""Hot. de Paris; Pens.
DES Colonies; Pens, du Sud; Hot. Westminster & Central; Hot. de
Menton Csee below), R. 2i/o-5, B. I1/2, dej. 3, U. 5 fr. ; Hot. du Littoral
(with restaurant). — In the Gorbio valley, to the 5f.W., 20 min. from
the middle of the town: *Alexandra Hotel, a large new house, charm-
ingly situated, with garden.
Ore the E. Bay: *Hotel d'Italie, patronised by the English, and *H6t.
Bellevue, both situated above the high-road, with pleasant gardens ; *H6t.
DE8 Anglais, Hot. de la Paix, also frequented chiefly by English; *Hot.
Garavan, with garden; 'Hot. <fc Pens. Beaurivage; Hot. Britannia;
*Pens. Sta. 3Iaria; Pens. Villa Marina (chiefly for ladies).
All the hotels and pensions are closed in summer except the Hotels
de Menton and du Pare.
Apartments, In tjoth bays there are many charming and sometimes
handsomely furnished villas, a list of which (about 300) may be obtaind
of O. Willotighby , Cook's Agency, or Gust, and Ton. Amarante , who draw
up contracts of lease, take inventories of furnishings, and compare them
again when the visitor leaves. Rents 1000-7000 fr. and upwards for the
season. Private apartments, from 700 fr. upwards, where families can
live less expensively than at a pension, are to be had in the Avenue Victor
Emanuel, Rue de la Republique, etc. Choice of situation, see below.
The Cercle Philharmonique sometimes gives concerts and balls. Neie
Casino, for operettas, etc.
Restaurants at the Parc, Menton, and Littoral hotels and others supply
monthly subscribers with dinner at reduced rates. — Caf6s. Cafedtt Nord,
Avenue de la Gare (cofl'ee 40 c); de Menton; de Paris, etc. — Beer. Brasserie
Suisse (Jann), Rue Honorine; Maison Dorfe; Brasserie de Munich, Rue
Partonneaux ; Cafe ilu Jardin and Cafe des Voyageiirs, Avenue de la Gare.
— Confectioners. 'Rumpelmayer, with newspapers, and Pavilion de Menton,
both in Die .lardiu Public.
Physicians. Drs. Fitz- Henry, Bennet , Marriott, Siordet , and Rendal,
English; Drs. Reale and Farina, Italian; Dr. Stiege (Hot. de Paris) and
Dr. V. Cube (Hot. de Malte), German; Dr. Almeras, French. — Chemists:
British Pharmacy (Jassoudj , Lindeicald , Oddo , Albertotti , and Gras , some
of whom make up English and German prescriptions during the winter.
Baths. Eiablissement des Bains, Rue Partonneaux; Sea -Baths (cold
and hot) in front of the Hotel des Anglais.
Post and Telegraph Office, Hue Partonneaux (from 8 a. m. till 9 p. m.). ,
Bankers. Cliurles I'almaro (Brit, vice-consul); Credit de Xice, Avenue
Victor Emanuel: ISanque I'npiilaire, Rue Partonneaux. — Book-shops, /.i-
brairie Cetitrale, Rue St. Michel, with lending library; Giordan, Avenue
de la Gare. — Bazaars. Maison Mod'ele , Rue St. Michel; Bazar Parisien
and Bazar de Menton, Avenue Victor Emanuel ; An Petit Paris, for ladies.
— Photographers. Anfossi and Nuina Blanc, Rue Partonneaux.
Kusic daily in the Jardin Public, 2-3.30 p. m.
MEiNTONE. V. Route 68. 459
Tramway through the town from the Quartier Caravan to the Quar-
tier Madonna (Pont de TTnion) every 10 min., 10-40 e.
Carriages. Drive in the town 1 fr.. with two Iiorses li/o fr. ; per hour
21/2 or 3i/.ifr. ; half-dav. one-horse S-10, day 12-15 fr.. two-horse 25 fr. —
To Monte Carlo 8-12, and back, with stay of 1-2 brs.. 12-15 fr. : to Roque-
brune , Vallee de Gorbio. Vallee de Jlenton . and. Cap Martin and hack
8-10 fr.: to Mortola and back 12-15 fr. — Donkey 5 fr. per day, 21A) fr.
per half-day. and gratuity.
English Churches. Si. John's, in the W. bay, services at 8, 11, and 3:
('hrist Chiiirh, in the E. bay, adjoining the Hotel de la Paix, services at
8.30, 11, and 3. — French Protestant Church, Rue de la Republique.
Climate. Mentone is sheltered from the X. winds by a girdle of rocky
nioiintains, and is considered one of the most favourable spots for a
winter-residence on the Riviera. The E. bay in particular is thoroughly
sheltered, and has a mean temperature in winter of 50° Fahr. A cool and
refreshing breeze, however, generally springs up about noon, and the cold
"Brise' is also an occasional visitor. Between 1st Xov. and the end of
.\pril rainy days average 40, while snow rarely falls. Fogs are unknown,
but heavy dews are frequent. The \V. bay is less sheltered than the E.
bay. but has a greater clioice of houses at a distance from the sea, and
ali'ords pleasanter walks. The dusty roads are regularly watered, and the
sanitary arrangements have been improved. Like the rest of the Riviera,
however, Mentone has sufl'ered from the panic caused by the earthquake
nf February, 1887.
Mentone, Fr. Mentun, a small town with 9400iiihab. . formerly
belonging to the principality of Monaco, independent for a short
time in 1849, and afterwards under Sardinian supremacy, was an-
nexed to France in 1860. It is charmingly situated on the Bay of
Mentone, consisting of the Baie de I' Est and the Baie de I'Ouest.
separated by a rocky promontory, on which the older parts of the
town are built. Several brooks, occasionally swollen by rain, empty
themselves into the"\V. bay. The luxuriant vegetation consists mainly
of orange and lemon groves, chiefly in the side-valleys (yielding
about 30 million lemons annually), interspersed with gnarled carob-
trees (ceratoria siliqua), flgs. olives, etc. The weli-planted Promenade
du Midi and Jardin Public are favourite walks in the afternoon.
The ruined castle on the hill above the old town, which has been
converted into a Cemetery, affords a fine *View of the sea and coast
from Bordighera as far as the Tete de Chien. (S. Agnese on one of
the hills was built for defence against the Saracens.) Another good
vantage-ground is the new Boulevard Victoria, leading from the
cemetery towards Port .St. Louis. So, too, the monastery of 8. An-
liunziata, to which a tolerable path ascends in '2 hr. from the Turin
road (to the left immediately beyond the railway). Pleasant walks
may also be taken to the Valle'e de Uorbiu, Vallee Borrigo, Valle'e
de Menton (carriage-road to C'astellar), and the Cap Martin, which
bounds the Bay of Mentone on W.; to Grimaldi, to the E., just be-
yond the frontier-bridge (^|^ hr. walk), where a tower in Dr. Bennet's
garden (adm. in forenoon, except Sundays) commands a fine view:
to Mortola, with Mr. Ilanburys beautiful garden.
Excursions. A beautiful walk or drive may be made by the new (Tu-
rin) road to Sospello. ascending the right bank of the Torrent de Care!,
which falls into the Baie de TOuest. Hear (4M.).l/o»ii the road begins
460 v. Route 69. CORSICA.
10 ascend. Aliout "'4 31. lartlier, a little to the right, is the Gourg de VOra.
a grotto with a waterfall. The road then winds up the Col de Gvardia.,
penetrating the upper part of the hill by a tunnel 88 yds. long. At the
other end of the tunnel lies the rock -bound hamlet of CasHUon (2530 ft.),
91/2 M. from Mentone, 4i/o M. from Hospello (p. 4563. — Another walk is bv
(91/2 M.) Caslellar to the summit of the Berceau (3600 ft.; 3-4 hrs.) ; magni'-
licent prospect, embracing the mountains of the coast, the blue expanse
of the Mediterranean, and Corsica in the distance (guide advisable; Louis
Jouan of Mentone, donkey-hirer, recommended; riding not practicable for
the last 1/4 hr.). — To S. Agnese (poor tavern), situated on a serrated ridge
of rock (2510 ft), 2 hrs.: returning by (2 hrs.) Gorbio and Roqiiebriine to
Mentone in 4-5 hrs. — From S. Agnese the '■Aiguille'' (4230 ft.) may be
ascended in 2-21/2 hrs. ; splendid view. — To Camjwrosso, 3i 2 M., and holce
Aequo. 7 M. inland from Ventimiglia (p. 448).
69. Corsica.
steamboats. — I. From Makskii.li.s to Ajaccio, 210 M., in 14-20 hrs. :
Compagnie Morelli, every Friday, starting at 5 p.m. (fares 32 and 21 fr.) ;
Compagnie Genh-ale Trmtsallantiqiie every Mon., also at 5 p.m. (fares 38 and.
26 fr.; food included in both cases). — 11. Fkom Marseilles to Bastia in
about 18 hrs. : Compagnie Fraissinet, every Sv>n. morning direct, and every
Mon. evening via Nice and Isola Eossa; Comj>agnie Morelli, every Sun. and
Thurs. morning direct and every Tues . evening via Nice. Fares 32 and
21 fr., via Nice 40 and 27 fr. — III. From Marseilles to Isola Rossa akd
Calvi: Compagnie Morelli, every Tues. (28, 18 fr.). — IV. From Nice to
Bastia , in ca. 12 hrs.: Compagnie Morelli., every Wednesday at 5 p.m.
(Marseilles boat), returning on Sat. night. — V. From Nice to Isola Rossa
(or Calvi), Ajaccio, and Porto Torres, in 9, 21, or 40 hrs.: Compagnie
Morelli., every Sat. at 6 p.m. — VI. From Leghorn to Bastia, 72 M., in
7-8 hrs.: Comp. Morelli, every \Ved., Thurs., and Sat.; Comp. Fraissinet,
twice weekly. — Embarkation by small boat, 1 fr. — The above arrange-
ments are subject to alteration and the traveller should not fail to consult
the latest time-tables and make enquiries of the agents of the steamship-
companies.
Corsica (French La Corse), situated between 43° and 41°21'N. latitude,
56 M. distant from Italy and 111 M. from France, and separated from Sar-
dinia bv the Strait of Bonifacio, which is 9 M. in width, possesses an area
of 3386 sq. M., and a population of 278,.50O souls (census of 1886). A broad
mountain-chain, terminating towards the N. in the Capo Corso, consisting
of grey granite and limestone formations, occupies almost the entire is-
land. On the W. it rises abruptly from the sea, forming a number of bold
promontories and deeply indented bays. On the E. side , towards Italy,
the alluvial deposits have been more abundant, and have formed a level
coast of some breadth. The vast height to which the mountains rise
within a comparatively small space {e.g. Jlonte d'Oni 7850 ft., flionte
Rotondo 5^775 ft., Monte Cinto 8890 ft.) imparts a wild and imposing char-
acter to the scenery. Nine-tenths of the area of the island are unculti-
vated, while the mountains for the most part are clothed with magnificent
forests. The Flora of the island is remarkable for its rare luxuriance
and diversity, comprising specimens of almost every species of plant
found on the shores of the Mediterranean. The timber of Corsica was
highly esteemed by the ancients, and still supplies most of the French
and Italian dockyards. Its mineral wealth, however, is far inferior to
that of Sardinia, though it possesses numerous mineral springs.
The character of the natives, notwithstanding the levelling and equal-
ising effects of advancing civilisation, corresponds with the wild aspect
of their country, and, at least in the more remote districts, still retains
many of those peculiar features described by ancient writers. Their in-
satiable thirst for revenge (vendetta), fi)rmerly one of the chief causes
ch t'o'-sv
CVrave & imiiriine
Ilistonj. CORSICA. V. Route -68. 461
(if the depopulation of the island, has never been tlioroughly eradicated.
Tlie perpetrators of these dark deeds retire as outlaws {bandili) to the
mountains, where, hunted like wild beasts by a corps of gensdariues
constituted for this express purpose, they frequently protract their mis-
erable existence for many years. At the same time this revengeful
ferocity is to a certain extent compensated by bravery, love of free-
dom, simplicity of manners, and hospitality, virtues which usually
characterise a vigorous and primitive race. Their ballads, and especially
their dirges (voceri), are full of poetical pathos.
The situation and climate of the island are Italian, as was also its
history down to the year 1768. .Since the beginning of the present cen-
tury its union with France has been still more closely cemented by its
connection « ith the family of Napoleon. It now forms the 8(jth depart-
ment, the capital of which is Ajaccio, and is divided into 5 arrondisse-
ments : Ajaccio, Hastia, Calvi, Corte , and Sartene. An Italian dialect is
still the language of the natives, but French is used for all official j^iir-
poses, and is spoken by the educated classes.
The great attractions of Corsica are its beautiful scenery and its inter-
esting historical associations, for it can boast of no antiquities or trea-
sures of art. A visit to the island is now easily accomplished. May is
considered the most favourable season. A week's stay will enable the
ordinary traveller to become acquainted with Ajaccio, Corte (ascent of
.Monte Kotondo), and Bastia. Those who desire a more thorough insight
into the resources of the country and the character of the natives will
encounter some inconveniences, and should endeavour to obtain intro-
ductions to inhabitants of the island. Travelling in the interior is cheap,
the hotel-expenses averaging 61 .j-7 fr. a day, while a mule and attendant
cost about 5 fr. per day and gratuity.
Corsica, like its sister-island Sardinia, which was peopled by the same
race, never attained to a high degree of civilisation in ancient times. The
wliole island is depicted as having been a wild and impenetrable forest,
of very evil rep\itation. Its possession was nevertheless keenly contested
hy the great naval powers of ancient times. The I'hociEans , banished
from Asia by the Persians, founded the town of Alalia (afterwards .Vleria)
on the E. coast, at the uinuth of tlie Tavignano, H. C. 556. .\fter a great
naval battle in 5;i6, however, they were compelled by the allied Etrus-
cans and Cartlia;4inians t(j abandon their settlement and migrate to Italy,
where they founded the town Elea, or Velia, in Lucania. The island then
became subject to the Etruscans, and subsequently to the Carthaginians,
from whom it was wrested by the Romans in 23iS. Under itlaritis and
Sulla the colonies of Aleria and Mariana were established on the E. coast,
but both were subsequently destroyed. The island was frequently used
as a place of banishment, as in the case of the philosopher Seneca, who
spent eight years here during the reign of the Emp. Claudius. His account
of the country and its inhabitants is by no means flattering, and the
Corsicans sometimes declare that 'Seneca era un birbone'. The following
lines written by him are to this day partially true:
'Prima est ulcisci le.v, altera vivere raptu,
Tertia mentiri, quarta negare deos'.
After the fall of the Western Empire Corsica frequently change<l mas-
ters; the Vandals, Hyzantines, Ostrogoths, Franks, and Saracens rapidly
succeeded each other in its possession. In 1070 tlie Pisans, and in 134S
the Genoese obtained the supremacy, which the latter retained till the
18th century. Their oppressive sway, however, gave rise to a long series
of conspiracies and insurrections, in many of which a number of remark-
able characters and bold adventurers distinguished themselves. Thus
Arrigo della Uocca, Vincentello d'Istria, an<l (iiampolo da Leca in the
14th and 15th cent., and Renuccio della liocca and Sampiero di Kastelica
(killed on 17th Jan., 1567) in the 16th century. At length, in 1729. the
universal disall'ection to Genoa began to assume a more serious aspect,
notwithstanding the elforts made by the Republic to stifle it with the
aiil of German auxiliaries. The last of a long succession of adventurers
462 V. Route 69. AJACCIO. Corsica.
was a Baron Theodore Neuhof, from Westphalia, who landed on 12th
March, 1736, at Aleria, near the mouth of the Tavignano, attended by a
number of followers , and provided with warlike equipments. He was
shortly afterwards proclaimed King of Corsica, under the title of Theo-
dore I., but his success was short-lived, and he was soon compelled to
<luit the island, for the Genoese were assisted by the French. Theodore
returned twice subsequently to Corsica, but was ultimately compelled
to seek an asylum in London, where he died in obscurity in 1756.
Meanwhile the Corsicans, under the command (from 1755) of the heroic
Pasquale Paoli (born in 1724 at Stretta, a village among the mountains
S.W. of Bastia"; died in London in 1807), fought so successfully against
the Genoese, that the latter lost the whole island with the e.xception of
Bastia. By the Treaty of Compiegne in 1768 Genoa ceded Corsica to the
French, who, however, were still strenuously opposed by Paoli and other
leaders, and were unable thoroughly to assert their supremacy until 1774.
After the French Revolution Paoli returned from England to Corsica,
after an exile of 20 years, and became president of the island. Internal
•dissensions, however, again springing up, the English were invited by
Paoli to his aid, and in 1794 under Hood, conquered the island. In 1796
they were compelled to abandon their conquest, and since that period
Corsica has belonged to France.
Ajaccio.
Hotels, *H6tel Continental, Cours Grandval: *H('it.-Pens. Bellevue,
also in the Cours Grandval, about 10 min. from the town, frequented by
English; *Hot.-Pens. Siisse. These three have all a southern aspei't:
R. 6 fr. and upwards, D. 4, pens. 7-12 fr., without wine. — *H6tel de
France, in the Place Diamant or Bonaparte, K. from 2i;.i, dej. 21/0, D.
3 fr., pens, with wine 8-10 fr. : Dauphin and Grimaud, both in the Cours
Napoleon, pens. 6 fr. These three have no rooms to the S. and are in
the Italian style. — Private Apartments from 40-50 fr. per month.
Caf^s. DuBoiJ^rdme ^ Rue du Marche 3; Solferino^ Voltaire., NapoUon.
■de la Nation^ all in the Cours Isapole'on. — Restaurant des Etrangers^ Cours
Grandval.
Post and Telegraph Office, Cours Napoleon 2.
Bankers: Pozzo, Lanzi^ Boul. du Roi-Jerome; Conti^ Cours Grandval.
Baths: Bains Publics, Boul. du Roi-Jerome.
Carriage per drive li '4, with two horses I1/2 fr., at night II/2 and 2 fr. :
per hour li/o, 2, and 21/i fr. — Saddle-horse 5 fr. per half-day. — Rowing-
boat to carry 1-10 persons 2 fr. per hour. Embarking or disembarking
from steamer, 1 fr. each person: luggage free.
English Church (Holy Trinity); services at 10.30 and 2.80. — British
Consul, MalcoUn II. Drummond, Esq.
Climate. .Vjaccio is admirably sheltered by lofty hills on the N.,
N.E., and E., but is sometimes visited by violent winds from the S.W.
The mean annnual temperature is about 3° Fahr. higher than that of the
Riviera. The heat is somewhat tempered by the humidity of the atmo-
sphere. The number of rainy days is comparatively small (averaging
34 in the six winter months) but a heavy dew falls at night. For those
afflicted with pulmonary complaints Ajaccio oft'ers one great advantage
n its complete immunity from dust, owing to the hard granitic soil.
Ajaccio (pronounced Ajassio in French), with 17,600 inhab.,
was founded by the Genoese in 1492, and made the capital of the
island in 1811 by Napoleon, at the request of his mother Letltia. It
is most beautifully situated in an extensive bay, which stretches N.
to the Punta della Parata. near the Isole Snnguinarie, and S. to the
Caj)0 di Muro, whilst the background is formed by imposing moun-
tains, often covered with a snowy mantle until late in the summer.
Corsica. AJACCIO. T'. lioiiie 6.9. 46P)
The town presents a somewhat deserted aspect, although great im-
provements have taken place of late years.
On quitting the harbour we first reach the broad Place du Marche,
adorned with a fountain surmounted by a marble statue of Napoleon I.
as First Consul, by Laboureur. To the right, at the point where the
Boulevard du Uoi- Jerome diverges, is situated the Hotel de Ville.
On the first floor is the *Reception Hall, adorned with busts and pic-
tures illustrative of the history of the Bonaparte family.
The Rue Fesch leads to the Palais Fesch, with the college of that
name, which contains a large collection of pictures (600, most of them
copies; open on Sun. & Thurs. 1-4, to strangers on other days also).
casts, a library (30.000 vols.), and a collection of Corsican minerals.
The court contains a bronze statue of Cardinal Fesch, half-brother
of Napoleon's mother, by whom the collection was bequeathed to
the town. In the right wing of the palace is the Chapelle Fesch
(open daily 8-9 a. m. and also on Thurs. & Sun. 2-4), built in 1855,
containing the tombs of Letitia Ramolino , mother of Napoleon
('mater regum'; d. at Rome in 1836), and of Cardinal Fesch (d. at
Rome in 1839).
By the street to the left opposite the fountain (see above) , and
then by the third transverse street to the right (Rue St. Charles), we
reach the small Place Lefizia, containing the house in which Napo-
leon was born, with the inscription: ' Sapoleon est ne' dans cette
maison le 15 Aof'it 1769' (open on Thurs. & Sun.. 12-4; at other
times on application to the concierge, who lives opposite, fee 1 fr.).
It contains a few reminiscences of the great warrior.
The family of Bonaparte appears to have emigrated in the 16th cent,
from Sarzana in TiKScany, perhaps with the powerful Malaspinas, to Corsica.
Wessire Francesco Bonaparte, the first member of the family who resided
in Corsica, died at A.jaccio in 1.5(jT. Napoleon's father. Carlo Maria Bona-
parte, born at A.jaccio, 29th March, 1746. was educated at a school founded
by Paoli at Corte, and afterwards studied law at Pisa. He then became an
advocate at A.jaccio, where he enjoyed considerable popularity, but was
soon appointed by Paoli his secretary at Corte. After the disastrous battle
of Ponte Nuovo, 9th May, 1769, in consequence of which Corsica lost its
independence to France. Carlo lied with his young wife Letitia Kamolino
to the Monte Rotondo. He shortly afterwards returned to A.jaccio, where
the French General Marbeuf, the conqueror of Corsica, accorded hin\
protection, and where, about two months later, Napoleon was born. In
1777 Carlo was appointed deputy of the nobility for Corsica, and travelled
via Florence to Paris. He died at Montpellier in February, 1785. Napoleon,
then 16 years of age, having quitted the school at Brienne two years pre-
viously, was studying at the Ecole Militaire at Paris. The letter of con-
dolence which he wrote to his mother on the occasion is still e.Ktant.
After the storming of the Bastille in 1789 and the great subsequent crisis,
Napoleon with his elder brother .Joseph warmly espoused the popular
cause at Ajaccio. He then repaired to Marseilles to welcome Paoli on his
return from exile, and the latter predicted on this occasion that a great
destiny was in store for the youth. In 1791 Napoleon obtained the com-
mand of the newly-constituted Corsican battalions, and in this capacity
practically began his military career. In 1792, Paoli, dissatisfied with
the proceedings of Napoleon, sent him to S. Bonifacio, to .join the expe-
dition against Sardinia. This, however, proved an utter failure, and on
22nd January, 1793, Napoleon narrowly escaped being slain by insurgents.
464 V. lioute G9. S.BONIFACIO. Corsica.
Shortly afterwards he broke oil' his connection with Paoli and was com-
pelled to quit Corsica with his family. During the zenith of his power
the Emperor evinced little partiality for his native island, which he vis-
ited for the last time on 29th September, 1799, on his return from Egypt.
During his exile in the island of St. Helena, liuwever, his thoughts appea'
frequently to have reverted to Corsica. 'What reminiscences Corsica he
left to me!' he was heard to e.xclaim : 'I still think with pleasure of its
mountains and its beautiful scenery; I still remember tlie fragrance whija.
it exhales.' Antommarchi, Napoleon's physician in St. Helena, and tj?"
priest "V'ignale, who performed the last oflices of religion, were CorsicanS,
and shared the fate of their illustrious compatriot.
The Cathedral , where Napoleon was baptised on 22i»il .luly,
1771, dates from 1592-1603.
In a side-street of the Place du Marche is situated the palaie of
the Pozzo di Borgo, one of the most distinguished Corsican families.
Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, born on 8th JIarch. 1768, an early frieuii
of Napoleon, a democrat and adherent of Paoli, afterwards became the
Emperor's bitterest enemy. He subsequently became a Russian counselloi,
iif state, and in 1802 was created a count and appointed ambassador, ii.r
which capacity he indefatigably devoted his energies to opposing his am-
bitious countryman. He died at Paris iu 1842.
The Rue du March^ leads from the Place du Marche to the
Place Bonaparte , or Place Dlamaut, adorned with an equestriij;;
statue of the Emperor with his four brothers, iu bronze, by Barjfi
erected in 1865. — The tree-lined Cours Napoleon, which cross
the Rue du Marche at the Place Bonaparte, is prolonged thence ;
the high-road to Bastia. To the right, outside the gate, is the Sia-
tue of General Ahatncci , a Corsican who fell in 1796. whilst de-
fending the town of Hiiningen , by Yital-Dubray. The Botavii
Harden, on the road to Bastia, */4 h. from the town, merits a vi.^it
One of the pleasantest walks in Ajaccio is all'orded by the prolonga
lion of the Con>\i Grandval, which crosses the I'lace Casone and gradually
ascends the olive-clad slopes to the (2^/^ M.) spring of .Solaria, command-
ing charming views of the town, the harbour, the gulf, and the moun-
tains. Splendid Mandarin and other oranges are grown in the Jardin
Ferahli which we pass on the way. — The road on the N. side of the
liay, passing the Hospice Eugenie, although destit\ite of shade, also all'ords
a charming walk. The gardens here contain numerous family burial-
places and chapels. About 3 JI. from the town is the garden of M. Ho-
■jaii, and farther on that of the Pozzo di Borgo family.
Pleasant E.xcursions mav be made to Caiiro , returning by Suarella
(25 Jl., carriage 20 fr.); to the N. e.xtremity of the Afonte Pozzo di Borgo,
wlience there is a fine view (carr. 15-20 fr.); to the Torre delta Paraia
(carr. 10-15 fr.); to the Isole Sangtiinarie (p. 462), etc.
The Saths of Guagno (Hotel), with the chief mineral springs of Cor-
sica (sulphuriius; 98-124° Fahr.). lie 40 M. to the X. of .\iaccio, whence
they are reached by diligence. To the N.E. rises Monte liotondo (p. 46UJ.
l-'noM Ajaccio to Ouitera am> Zicavo, 37 31., diligence daily. We
follow the Sartene road (see below) for about 20 JI., and then diverge to
the left, via (21 M.) S. Maria-Sicht, with the ruined castle of the famous
chieftain Sampiero (d. 1567), and the (271 ... m.) Cnl ,le llranace (2751 ft.),
whence we enjoy a splendid view, to the (34 iM.) Baths of Guitera (Hotel),
witli hot sulph'ureotis springs, and (371/o M.) Zicavo (Hoi. Careopino), a pic-
turesquely situated little town. The « Monte Incudine (7010 ft.) may be
ascended "hence in 4-5 hrs., with guide (bridle-path to a point l ... hr. below
the top). About halfway there^ are some shepherd's huts, where the
traveller may spend the night, if he whishes to see the sunrise from
the summit." The *View is the linest in Corsica. D^-scent in 41/2 hrs.
.,sica. COKTE. V. Route. <Ji). 465
— From Zicavo we may proceed by the pieturesiiue road, which leads
through the interior of the island, to the S. to 37 JI.) <Sfa/-<ene, or to the
X. to (50 M.) Corie (see below)-
From Ajaccio to S. Bonifacio.
Carriage-road from Ajaccio to Bonifacio (86i .(JI.): diligence dailv to
'021/:; -M.) Sartene (*eot. de TUnivers) in 9-10 hrs. (fare 7, coupe 9 ifr.),
k nd thence to (34 M.) Bonifacio in 6-7 hrs. (5 or 6 fr.). On Saturdays a
" leamer plies from Ajaccio to (3 hrs. J Fropriano (*Hot. de France), whence
' a diligence runs to Sartene iu 21-2 hrs.
i" The fortress of S. Bonifacio '(Hotel du Xord) , with 3400 inhab. , is
■ picturesquely situated on a prominent and lofty rock. It possesses
[ high and dilapidated houses, of the Pisan and Genoese periods, and
narrow, unattractive streets. The principal street is called the Piazza
Doria. The town was founded in 833 by the Tuscan JIarquis Bonifacio,
after a naval victory over the Saracens. II Torrione , a large tower
of that remote date, is still standing. Bonifacio subsequently came
into the possession of tlie Pisans, then into that of the Genoese, by
whom it was treated with marked favour. In return for this partiality
this town, as well as C'alvi, remained inviolably faithful to Genoa, as
was proved in 1420 by its memorable defence against King Alphonso 1.
\^f Aragon. The house of Filippo Cataccioli, in which the Emp. Char-
les V. lodged in 1541 on his return from his e.xpedition against Algiers,
is pointed out. The town once boasted of 20 churches, of which the cathe-
-ral of >S. Maria del Fico, the handsome Gothic church of <S. Bomenico, with
lumerous tombstones of Knights Templar and Genoese nobles, and the
.-jmall church of S. Francesco (with a spring, the only one in the town)
now alone remain. — A stone bench above the harbour of S. Bonifacio, by
'he old gate of the fortress, near the chapel of »5i. Rocco , commands a
-charming view, especially by evening-light, of the strait which separates
Corgiea from Sardinia. On the opposite coast the town of Lon<jo Sardo
is visible; on the left lies the island of 'S'. iladdalena. On the coast below
Uunifacio are situated three imposing Grottoes, which visitors explore by
.l)oat (4-0 fr. for one or more persons ; stipulate for visits to all the grottoes).
From S. Bonifacio to ISastia, see p. Aiu.
From Ajaccio to Bastia.
98 M. Railway to (3231.) Vizzarona in 21/2 hrs. ; DiLUiEKCE thence (railway
in progress) to (20 31.) Corte ; Railway fromCorte to (46 JI.) Bastia inSl/s hrs.
The train traverses the well- cultivated plain of Campoloro
[Campo deW Oro) , which extends to the S. half of the bay of
Ajaccio, and is watered by the Gravonn. The scenery gradually
becomes more attractive as we ascend; magnificent forests clothe
the slopes, and many beautiful retrospects are enjoyed. S^evoral
small stations. Beyond (25'/2 -^I-) Borognano (Hot. de TUnivers) the
valley of the Gravone is quitted by means of a long tunnel under
the Pass of Vizzavonaor La Foct{38i.0t't.). between the Mante dOro
(7850 ft.), on the N., and the Monte Renoso (7730 ft.), on the S.
At (.32 M.) Vizzarona this part of the railway ends at present.
The road now descends the valley of the Vecchio. an affluent of
the Tavignano. To the left rises the Monte Rotondo (p. 466). 38 M.
Vivario (Inn), a pleasant mountain-village. The road then turns
N. and skirts the base of the Monte Kotondo', leading through a
wooded and well -cultivated tract, past the xiUages oi' Serraggio,
Lugo, and S. Pietro di Venaco, to —
')2 M. Corte (Hot. Pierraggi, high charges ; Hot. Paoli), a town
Baedeker. Southern France. 30
466 V. Route 69. MONTE ROTONDO. Corsica.
with SOOOinhab., on the Tavignano. It is commanded by a lofty
citadel, which rendered it a keenly-contested point in the wars of
former centuries.
In Paoli's time Corte was the central point of his democratic
government. His study, with window -shutters lined with cork,
by way of additional precaution, and the council-chambers are still
shown at the Palazzo di Corte. A university, a printing-office, and
a newspaper were also established here by Paoli in 1765. The
Corsican parliament of that period sat in the neighbouring Fran-
ciscan monastery. Marble-quarries are worked in the vicinity.
The Place Paoli , the principal square , is embellished with a
bronze statue of the noble-minded patriot Pasquale Paoli, with
the French inscription : 'Au general Pasqual Paoli la Corse recon-
naissante, Fan 1854'. In another piazza farther to the N. rises
a statue of General Arrighi de Casanova , 'Due de Padoue' (born
at Corte in 1779, d. at Paris in 1853), erected in 1868. An agree-
able walk may be taken past the citadel into the Val Tavignano'.
Fine views from the heights to the N. of the town.
The Monte Rotondo (8775 ft.) is most conveniently ascended from
Corte. Guide and mule about 20 fr. A supply of provisions is necessary.
The excursion occupies two days, and is most easily accomplished in July
or August. At an early hour the traveller ascends the picturesque valley
of the wild Restonica, which here falls into the Tavignano after a course
of 35 M. ; farther on, the gorge of the Timozzo is ascended, where the
brook forms a series of pretty waterfalls. The path is suitable for mules
as far as the Ponte di Timozzo (35''0 ft., 2V4 brs. from Corte, and even to
the shepherd's huts of Timozzo (4920 ft.), I1/4 hr. farther up, where the
mules are left. Thence in lV4hr., across a wilderness of blocks of granite,
to the Fontana di Triggione (U400 ft.). The crater -shaped, snow-capped
summit is visible hence; below it lies the small and clear Lago di
Monte Rotondo (6750 ft.), near which the night is passed. Fields of snow
and ice, rising from the lake, must be laboriously traversed (2 hrs.) be-
fore the summit is attained. A magnificent *Panorama is here enjoyed.
The spectator surveys the greater part of the island; N. the Capo Corso;
W. the bays of Porto, Sagona, and Ajaecio; K. the blue Mediterranean,
with the islands of Monte Cristo, Pianosa, Capraja, and Elba, and the
mainland of Italy; .then [the white Maritime Alps, extending from Toulon
and Nice to (Jenoa. Corsica itself resembles a vast rocky relief-map; its
principal mountain-chains, with their rivers and valleys, are distinctly
recognisable. Towards the S. , however, the view is obstructed by the
massive Monto d'Oro. The descent may be made on the side next to the
Lago di Pazzolo, where the dark rocky pyramid of the /')■«/« (monk) rises.
Violets and forget-me-nots (here popularly called the 'marvellous flower of
the mountains') grow abundantly in the rocky clefts on the banks of the
lake. The mufllone, the wild horned sheep of Corsica, of a dark brown
colour, with silky hair, browses on these lofty summits. The huts of
Timoz-zo may now be regained in 3 hrs., and Corte in 4-5 hrs. more. The
descent may also be made on the S. side, via the Lago di Bottianella and
the Col de Manganella (5875 ft.), to (5-6 hrs.) the baths of Guagno (p. 464).
57 M. Soverin; 59'/2 M. Omessa; 64 M. Francardo.
69 M. Ponte-Leccia (Hot. Cyrnos), the junction of a new line
to (49 M.) Calvi (p. 468), open as far as (18 M.) Palasca (p. 468).
From Ponte-Lbccia to Orezza, 20 M. Diligence to Piedicroce , 2 M.
on this side of Orezza, which may also be reached from Folelli -Orezza
on the Bastia and Ghisonaccia railway (p. 467). On the way we pass (9M.)
Corsica. CAPO CORSO. V. Route 69. 467
Morosaglia, the native place of the Paoli family. A dilapidated cottage is
still pointed out, in the hamlet oi Stretta, as that in which Pasquale
Paoli was born in 1724. His father Hyacinth was a physician and poet,
and at the same time the leader of the Corsicans. Anecdotes of his
noble and heroic character are still current in this district; his memory
is also perpetuated by a school, established in an old monastery at Moro-
saglia with funds bequeathed by him for the purpose. A room in the
monastery was once occupied by Pasquale Paoli as his study, and here his
elder brother Clement, once a general, afterwards a monk, died in 1793.
— Orezza is known for its ferruginous springs, which attract visitors to
this district. Fine panorama from the top of Monte S. Pietro (5790 ft. :
31/2-4 hrs.).
The railway to Bastia descends the valley of the Golo, frequently
crossing the stream. 71 M. Pontenuovo ; 76 M. Barchetta.
84'/2 M- Casamozza , the junction for the line to Ghisonaccia
and Bonifacio (see below). The railway now leads direct to the N. ;
the coast-district is flat and full of lagoons. In the extensive plain
to the E. of Casamozza, at the mouth of the Golo, on the left bank,
once lay Mariana, a Roman colony founded by Marius, the remains
of which are visible on the shore, 3 M. from the road. The ruins of
a beautiful chapel, and of a church called La Canon ica, a basilica
of noble proportions in the Pisan style, are situated here. — Several
small stations and a long tunnel.
98 M. Bastia. — Hotels. Grakd Hotel, Hotel de France C^- & A.
21 o. lunch 3. D. 4 IV.J. both in the Boulevard du Palais. ^ Cafd du Nord;
Cafr Andreani. — British Vice-Consul: Jfr. Arthur C. Southwell. — V, S. Con-
sular Agent: Afr. Simon Damiani.
Steamers to Marseilles (thrice weekly direct, and twice via Nice) and
Leghorn (five times weekly), see p. 460.
Bastia, with 20,765 inhab., the busiest commercial place in the
island, and its capital down to 1811, was founded in 1830 by the
Genoese and defended by a strong castle (whence the name of the
town, signifying 'bastion'). The cathedral of -S. Giovanni Battista
contains several ancient tombs. In -S. Croce are rich decorations
in marble. The former College of the Jesuits contains a library of
30,000 vols, and natural history collections. The Place St. Nicholas
on the Promenade on the coast is embellished with a marble Statue
of NapoleoJi by Bartolini.
The old town with the citadel rises above the more modern
quarter situated near the harbour. Beautiful walk along the coast
towards the N., where a number of easily-attained heights afford a
variety of fine views of the sea and coast.
From Bastia to S. Bonifacio.
107 M. Railway to (54 M.I Ghisonaccia in 4i 4 hrs., and Diligence
thence to S. Bonifacio in about 12 hrs. (railway to be prolonged).
From Bastia to (14 JI.) Casamozza, see above. The railway here diverges
from the line to Ajaccio and follows the somewhat bleak and desolate E.
coast of the island, soon crossing the Golo (see above). Most of the stations
are unimportant. From (20 M.) Folelli- Orezza a diligence runs to I21/2 M.)
the baths of Orezza (p. 466). — 291/2 M. Prunete - Cervione lies 4 M. to the
E. of the small town of Cervione (HiJt. Albanesi), which possesses an in-
teresting church and commands a splendid view. — 56 M. Aleria, aboxit
30*
468 V. Route 69. CALVI. Cordca
11/4 M. to the S. of the Stagno di Diana, where the ancient town of ^4Jen'«
was situated. Fragments of masonry and vaulting, and remnants of a circus
are still to be seen. Coins, vases, and inscriptions have also been found here.
The modern Aleria consists of the Genoese castle and a few houses only,
for this coast, owing to the want of cultivation, is marshy and unhealthy.
Here, in 1736, the adventurer Nevihof (see p. 462) landed from an English
vessel. — 54 m. Ohisotiaccia , the present terminus. — The road passes
(90 51.) Porto Vecohio (Hot. des Amis), a town with 2655 inhab. , the only
good harbour constructed by the Genoese, and supposed to occupy the site
of the ancient Partus Syracusanorum. Malaria prevails here in summer.
- 107 M. -S. Bonifacio, see p. 464.
From Sastia to Rogliano, Capo Corso, S. Fiorenzo, and Calvi.
From Bastia to Rooliano, 251/2 31., diligence daily in 5-6 hrs. —
From Rogliano to Capo Corso, the best point of view, about 5 M., carri-
age road, but no diligence.
A very pleasant excursion may be made to the long and narrow penin-
sula in which the Serra Mis. rise, culminating in the Jlonte Alticcione (3730 ft.)
and Monte Stello (52-50 ft.), and terminating on the N. in the Capo Corso
(Promontorium Sacriiiu; ^View). Keautiful valleys descend on the E. and
W. sides of these mountains. A good road leads along the coast from Bas-
tia, passing several ancient watch-towers of the Pisans and Genoese, and
iitlording a view of the picturesque islands of Elba, Capraja, and Monte
Cristo. At (4 31.) Brando there is a Stalactite Cavern, surrounded by plea-
sant gardens. At (16 JI.) .5. Severa opens the cliarming valley of Ltiri,
watered by several streams, and producing a luxuriant growth of grapes,
oranges, and lemons. At the end of the promontory (about 30 31. from
Bastia), to the IC. beyond (25V2 M-) Hogliano (Inn) and"(29JI.) Ersa, rises a
light house. An ancient, half-ruined circular structure near it is popularly
called the 'Tower of Seneca'.
A road leads from Bastia along the \V. coast and across the Serra
to the (15 31.) small seaport of S. Fiorenzo or St. Florent (Hotel de I'Eu-
rope), charmingly situated on the bay of that name, and commanded by a
chateau. In the neighbouring low ground formerly lay the mediaeval town
of Nebhio, the ruined cathedral of which (S. Maria Assiinta) , of the
12th cent., stands on an eminence. Beyond this the road skirts the sea,
crosses the small river Ostricnni , and reaches the small, but thriving
seaport town of (42 3I.)Isola Rossa (Hotel def Europe), founded in 1758 by
I'asquale Paoli, to whom a monument has been erected. Its name is
derived from three red dill's rising from the sea in front of the harbour.
The environs are delightful: the view from the Afonte S. Reparata,
surmounted by a deserted ch\ireh, is finest by evening- light. Steamers
run hence to Marseilles and Nice (see p. 460), and it will also be a station
of the new railway to Calvi (see below).
The road then leads to (47 31.) Algajola , a deserted old town on the
coast, with marlile quarries in the vicinity. During the Genoese period
it was fortified, and formed the central point of the fertile district of /<a-
lagna. The loftily situated village of (51 31.) Lumio, with its orange-planta-
tions and hedges of cactus, commands a beautiful view of the valley and
Ihe town of Calvi (Hotel Colombani ; British Vice-Consul, M. And. Roncajolo),
57 31. froni Bastia, an important and fortified place during the Genoese
])eriod, noted for its faithful adherence to the Republic, and in 1794 bra-
vely defended against the English by the French commandant Casablanca.
Traces of the English bombardment "are still observable. The old Cathedral
contains the tombs of the Baglioni family, who bore the surname Liberia,
from having distinguished themselves in the 15tli and 16th centuries. The
environs of Calvi are marshy. Charming view of the bay, with the pro-
montory of Rirellata, and of the rocky mountains of Calenzana, to the E.
of the town. — Steamer to JIarseilles, see p. 460. A diligence runs to (29 31.)
I'alasca, whence the new railway goes on to Ponte-Leccia (see p. 466).
INDEX.
Aas de Bielle, Col d' 118.
Able, Defile of 172. I
Abrets-Fitilieu, Les 295.
Abries 368. |
Accous 117.
Acilio 65. 1
Ade 112.
Adour, the 59. 60. 101.14%
iEniilianum Cast rum 378.'
Agathe 86.
Agaununi 273.
Agav 446.
Agde 86.
Agel, Mont 457.
Agen 65.
Aglio, Cap d' 447.
Agly, the 173.
Agneau.x, Pie de.s 367.
Agnel, Col 368.
S. Ageese 460.
Agonac 38.
Agonges 194.
Agout, the 70. 380.
Aguessac 378.
Aiflres 19. 20.
Aigles, Col des 356.
Aigliere, Pointe 359.
Algoual, the 400. 401. 387.
Aigrefeuille 20.
Aiguebelette, Lac d' 295.
Aiguebelle 312.
Aigueblanche 298.
Aigue-Cluse, Valley 145.
Aigiieperse 204.
.\ig\ies-Mortes 400.
Aiguette, Val. de 1' 171.
Aiguille, the 460.
— , Mont 339.
— , Plan de V 279.
— Grise 280.
, Cabane de V 281.
— Verte 276. 287.
Aiguilles 368.
— Marbrees 280.
— Rouges 269. 277.
Aiguillette, the 32i5. 368.
Aiguillon 65.
— , Bay of 24.
Aiguilious, Pic des 141.
Ailefroide 360. 338.
— , Col de r 358.
— , Cilacier de T 361.
— , Sommet de V 360.
Aillon, Crest de 1' 361.
Ainiargues 423. 400.
Aime 300.
Ain, the 188. 190. 261.
— , Depart, of the 188.
— , Monts d' 191.
Ainay-le-Vieil 210.
Aire-sur-l'Adour 59.
Airvault 15.
Aix (Bouches-du-Rhune)
427.
— , He d' 25.
— la-Marsalouse 246.
— les-Bains 264.
Ai.xe-sur-Vienne II.
Aizac, Coupe d' 393.
Aizenay 30.
Ajaecio 462.
Alagnon, the 205. 253. 377.
Alais 376. 395.
Alaric, Mont, d' 82.
Alba Helvioruni 393.
Albarine. the 261.
Albaron, Pointede V 316.
lAlbe, Pic >V 161.
lAlbece Reiorum 426.
lAlbenc, L' 328.
Albens 286.
Alberes, Monts 17-').
Alberts, Les 344. 381.
lAlbertviUe 297.
Albi 95. 79.
^Albias 70.
jAleria 467.
lAlet 170,
'Alex 294.
Aleyrac 387.
'Algajola 468.
lAlgue, Chat, d' 379.
Alixan 329.
AUauians, Les 272.
Allan/., Breche d' 139.
lAUee-Blanche, the 284.
, Chal. de r 285.
! , Glac. de V 283.
lAllegre 252.
Allemance, the 87.
AUemont 333. 334. 346.
Alles 12.
Allevard 332.
Allex 411.
AUevras 375.
AUier, the 192. 200. 234.
AUier, Depart, of the 192.
Allues, Les 307.
Alpe, Chal. de r346. 348.
— , Col de r 348.
— , Refuge de V 354. 355.
356. 363. 366.
Alpes Maritimes, Depart.
of the 450.
Alpetta, the 346.
Alpines, the 419.
Alticcione, Monte 468.
Altier 375.
Aluech, Grotte d' 389.
Alvau, Roche d' 354. 364.
— , Col du Roche d' 364.
Alzon 379.
Alzonne 79.
Amats. Les 388.
Ambares 29.
Ambazae 335.
Ambe'rieu 261. 190.
Ambert 2:30.
Ambes 54.
— , Bee d' 54.
Ambronay 189.
Anielie-les-Bains 179.
Amoulat, Pie 122.
Amplepuis 196.
Ampuis 390.
Aneel, Pas d" 272.
Anche-Voulon 7.
Andabre 380.
Andance 390.
Andaneette 409.
Andelot, L' 204.
Andev, Pointe d" 268.
Andifly-St. Oueu 24.
Andorra 169.
Andrest 91.
Andrezieux 229.
Anduze 395.
Ane, Bee de V 302.
Ane'ou, Col d' 125.
Aneto, Pic d' 161.
Ange, the 190.
.4nges, Baie des 453.
Anglas, Lac d' 122.
Angle, the 277.
— , Source de V 385.
Angoulenie 8.
Angoulins 25.
Angoumois, the 8.
Anguienne, the 8.
470
INDEX.
Anie, Pie d' 117.
Anis, Mont 248.
Anneey 290.
— , Lae d' 291.
Annemasse 268. 264.
Annonay 198. 409.
Anouillas, Plateau d' 121
Anse 187.
Antenae, Pic d' 157.
Anterne, Col, Lae d' 269
Antibes 446.
— , Cap d' 447.
Antignac 151.
Antioche, Straits of 25.
Antipolis 447.
-\ntraigues 393.
Anzieux, the 224.
Aosta (Italv) 286.
— (Savoy) "261.
Aoube,Cab.andCol d'144,
Aouste 409.
Aps 393.
Apt 426.
Apta Julia 426.
Aquae Bigerrionum Bal-
nearise 146.
— Borvonis 194.
— Gratianffi 264.
— Se.xtise 427.
— Tarbelliese 59.
Arac, Val. de 1' 163.
Araille, Pie d' 233.
Aramon 392.
Aran, Val. d' 151.
Arausio 412.
Aravis , Chaine and Col
des 295.
— , Porte des 295.
Arbanats 64.
Arbaze, Col d' 122.
Arbeousse, Cab. and Col
d' 137. 143.
Arbia, Col d' 464.
Arbizon, Pic d' 150.
Arboust, Val. de 1' 150.
154.
Arbresle, L' 197. 223.
Arc, the 312. 318.
Arcachon 57.
Arjay 15.
Archamps 268.
Archeboe, Point e d' 301.
Arcizans-Dessus 192.
Areomie 377.
Arcs, Les 445.'
Ardeche, the 391.
--, Depart, of the 390.
Ardentes 33.
Ardiden, Col, Lacs & Pics
d' 134.
Ardoise, L' 391. 395.
Ardoisiere, L' 203.
Arelate 420.
lAres 56.
Areu, Pointe d' 270. 295.
Arfeuilles 195.
Argagnon 106.
(Argeles-sur-Mer 175.
— Vieuzae 125.
.JArgens, the 445.
Argensole, Defile of the
395.
I. 'Argentera 342.
jArgentiere 287. 2(0.
— , Aiguille d' 280.
— , Col d' 280.
— , Col de r 342.
— , Glacier d' 289. 280.
— la-Bessee, L' 343.
Argentomagus 34.
Argenton 34.
Arias, Aig. des 351.
— , Col des 351.
Ariege, Dep. of the 165.
Arizes, Vallon d' 149.
Aries (B.-du-Rhone) 420.
— and Bouc Canal 424.
— les-Bains 179.
— sur-Tech 180.
Arlv, the 294. I
Arnes, Col d' 317. |
Pointe d' 317.
Arnon, the 31.
Arnousse, Pic d' 118.
Arpajon (Cantal) 254.
Arpeiron, the 293.
Arpenaz, Case, d' 270.
Arques, Col de las 117.
Arras 122.
Arrats, the 79.
Arraye, Caillou de V 141
Arre 379.
Arreau 150.
Arremoulit, Col d' 12.5.
Arrens 122.
~, Gave d' 122.
Arriel, Pic d' 125.
Arris, Puits d' 149.
Arriu.s Col d' 124.
Arros 116.
Arroueat, Pont d' 138.
Arroux, the 194.
Arse, Case, d' 164.
Arselle, L' 317.
Arses, Pointe des 317.
Arsimpe, Pont d' 135.
Arsine,(;iaeier d' 364. 366
, Col, Chal., and I,ac d
366.
Arteniare 261.
Artiac, Chat, d' 248.
Artigues 158.
— , Case, d' 145.
Arlix 106.
Artouste, r,ac d' 124.
Arudy 118.
Anila 186.
Arvant 205.
— , the 290.
Arve, the 267. 268. 274.
275.
Arvernia 234.
Arves, Aig. d' 365.
Arveyres 12.
Arvieux 344.
Asasp 116.
Ascain 102.
Aspa Luca 117.
Aspe, Val. d' 116.
, Pic d' 118.
Aspe, Gave d' 134.
Aspi, Case d' 149.
Aspin 150.
. Col d' 150.
Aspremont 455.
Aspres-les-Corps 341.
— sur-Buech 340.
Assat 100.
Asse, the 371.
lAssier 92.
lAssiettes, Lae des 309.
'Astaflort 89.
Astau, Granges d' 155.
Astazou, Pic de 1' 138.
Aste 149.
Astos, Val. d' 161.
Astrets, Col d' 134.
Astros, Chat, d' 445.
Atalaye, L' 62.
Attiguat 184.
Aubagne 438.
Aubais 401. _
Aubazine 24(.
Aubenas 393. 390.
Aubert 162.
, Lae and Pic d' 145.
Aubessagne 341.
Aubiere 239.
Aubiet 79.
Aubignas-Aps 393.
Aubln 97.
Aubisque, Col d' 122.
Aubrac, Monts d' 377.
.\\ibrais, Les 30.
Aubusson 226.
Aueh 90.
Auoin 122.
Aude, the 80. 170.
, Dep. of the 79.
— , upper valley of Ihe
171.
Audinac 162.
Aule, Pic d' 124.
Aulnat 230.
Aulus 163.
Aumar, Lae d' 145.
Auinessas 379.
Aumont 377.
Auni.s, L' 20.
INDEX.
471
Aure, Col d' 146.
— . Tete de 1' 353.
-, Val. d' 150.
Aurec 248.
Anreille 423.
Auribeau 450.
Auiillau 254.
Auriol 438.
Aurouze, Mont d' 339.
Aussois 315.
-, Col d' 312. 315.
Autaret, Col de 1' 317.
Aut-du-Scieu, Mts. 329.
Auterive 164.
Autevielle 105.
Autry 194.
Auvergne 234.
Auzances 225.
Auzat 167.
Auzits-Ausslbals 97.
Auzon, the 229. 393.
Ava, Chal. d' 2G8.
Avajan 150.
Avalanches, Col des 355
Avanchers, Les 300.
Avaricum 206.
Avenio 415.
Aventlgnan 114.
Ave'role 317.
— Valley 316.
Aveyron, the 70. 93. 94
98. 378.
— , Dep. of the 97.
Aveze 401.
Avignon 412.
Avlgnonet 79.
Ax 168.
Axat 171.
Axuma 300.
Aydins 117.
Aygalades, Les 425.
Ayerne, Roc d' 272.
Ayous, Pic d' lis.
Ayre, Col & Pic d' 144.
Azay-le-Rideau 13.
Azergues, the 187.
Azun, Val. d' 122.
Azuns 119.
Bacanere, Pic de 158.
Haccimaille, Som de 133.
Bachellerie, La 91.
Kadaroux 376.
Bagaud, He de 444.
liage.s and de Sijean.
Etaug de 172.
Bagnac 256.
Bagneres-de-Bigorre 146.
— de-Luchon 151.
Bagnols 376. 391.
Bagnols-les-Bain,s 376.
Baigts 105.
Bailletta, Col de 302.
Baix 391.
Balagne, La 468.
Bala'itous, Pic de 125.
Balaruc 87.
Balaruc-les-Bains 407.
Balazue 394.
Balbigny 197.
Balistres, Col des 176.
Ballan 12.
Bas-llonistrol 248.
JBasmont, Col de 298.
Bassan 381.
Basse, the 173.
Basse- Auvergne 234.
Basses- Alpes, Dep. of
I the 371.
— Pyrenees, Dep. of the
! 106.
JBassetiere, La 17
IBallande, Gorge dela308.'Bassies, Case, de 167.
|Balmaz,Roeher dela295. Bastan, Vallee du 141.
Balme, 270. 274. 317. iBastia 467.
Aiguille de 274.
Chal. a la 283.
Col de 274.
Grotte de 270.
Grotte de la 266.
Bastide, La 375.
Bastie, La 332.
iBastille, Fort de la 324.
Bathie, Chat, de la 298.
Batiaz, La 273.
Rousse, Pointe de355. Batie, Chat, de la 229.
Balnearies Lixonienses
152.
Balsieges 382.
Banassac-le-Canourgue
378
Bandol 439.
Banne-d'Ordenche, Pie
de la 240.
Bans, Vallon des 358.
— , Pic and Col des 357
Batie-Nexive-le-Laus, La
341.
— Montsaleon 370.
Baton, Case, du 347.
Baudiment 3.
Baudreix 110.
Baumes, Cirque des 386.
Baumes-Basses, Claudes,
and Vieilles 386.
Baux, Les 420. 423.
Banyuls-del-Aspres 179. Bayard, Chat. 329.
sur-3Ier 176.
Bar, Le 450.
— , Mont de 252.
Baraque, La 338. 339.
Barats, Les 279.
Barbazan 151.
Barbentane 419.
Barberine, the 288.
Barbezieux 10.
Barcelonnette 341.
Barchetta 467.
Bard, Chapelle du 332.
Bardonnecchia 313.
Col 340.
Bayle, Pic 346.
Bayonne 60.
Bayse, the 65.
Bazas 64.
Bazel, Pointe de 302.
Baziege 79.
Bear, Cape 175.
Beam 106. 107.
Beassac 359.
Beaucaire 389.
— , Canal de 389.
Beaucens 126.
Bardys-St. Priest, Les 35.lBeauchastel 390.
Bareges 141.
— , Foret de 142.
— , Gave de 141.
Barioz 308.
Barjac 382.
Barme de TOurs, Glac
de la 304.
Barrancs, Pic des 161.
Barraque, La 304.
Barraques, Les 341.
Barraux 330.
Barre des Ecrins. tin
354. 355. 361.
Barremes 371.
Barres, Les 3.
Barriere, Chateau 87.
Barry, Roe de 411.
Barsac 64.
Barzun, Source de 126.
Beaude'an 149.
Beaufort 298.
Beaujeu 187.
Beaujolais, the 187.
Beaulieu (Alp.-M.) 447.
— (Indre-et-Loire) 33.
— Berrias 394.
Beaumont 239.
Beaune 182.
Beaupouyet 41.
Beauregard, Chat, de 327.
Beaurepaire 409.
Beauronne, the 39.
Beautiran 6;}.
Beauvoir (Isere) 333.
— , Chat, de 328.
— sur-Mer 29.
Bebre, the 194.
Becca-Motta, 01ae.de 306.
472
INDEX.
Bee tie I'Ane 301.
— de I'Homme 363.
, Olae. du 363.
Bedarieux 379.
Bedarrides 412.
Bedat, Mont du 148.
Bedeillac 163. 166.
Bedoin 419.
Bedous 117.
Begles 63.
Begovide, La 393.
Beillant 10. 28.
Bel- Achat, Plan 278.
Belchamps 293.
Belfort (Pyr.) 172.
Belignat 190.
Bellac 7.
Bellachat 298. 313.
Belledonne, Croix de347.
329.
— , Lac de 347.
— , Pics de 347.
— , Refuge de 347.
Belle-Etoile, the 333.
Belleface, Roe de 301.
Bellegarde (Ain) 261. 191.
— (Gard) 389.
— (Pyr.-Orient) 179.
Belle-Lauze 334.
Bellenave 224.
Bellentre 300.
Belleville (Rhone) 187.
— (Savoy) 298.
— Vendee 24.
— , Vallee de 207.
Bellevue (Loire) 247.
— , Chalet de 273.
— , Pav. de 282.
Belley, 261.
Bellocq 105.
Belmont 331.
Bel-Oiseau, the 288.
Belvedere (Alpes Marit.)
456.
— (Chamonix) 278.
— , Pointe du 286.
Belves 87.
Belviane.s 171.
Benesse 60.
Benet 16. 24.
Benets, Les 331.
Benque-Uessous 156.
— Dessus 156.
Beous, the 340.
Berard, Cascade a 288.
— , the Grand 341.
— , Valley 266. 270. 288.
Berarde, La 349.
Berceau, the 460.
Bergerae 12.
Bergon.s, Pic de 138.
Bergusium 318.
Bernac-De'bat 145.
Bernav, Chat, de 7. Blanc
Bernazaou, Val. de 134.! 362.
Glacier 359. 361.
Berre 424.
— , Etana; de 424.
Berrv 206.
— , Canal du 31. 206.
Bersac 7. 35.
Berthemont 456.
Bertholene 98.
Bertrone, the 164.
Berze 195.
Berzeme 390.
Besines, Col de 169.
Bessan.s 316.
Be.ssat, Le 228.
Bessav 195.
Besse"243.
Bes,seges 394.
Bessev, Le 346.
— , Col du 347.
Bessines 7.
Bessonnes, Les 351.
Betharram 110.
Bethmale 162.
Beune, the 64.
Beuvron. the 30.
Beuxes 14.
Bevera, the 456.
Bevnac 38.
Bevnost 261.
Bezenet 194.
Bez-et-Esparon 379.
iBe'ziers 85.
iBezing 110.
Biarritz 62. 101.
Biav.sse, the 342.
Bidart-Guetharv 101.
Bidassoa, the 102. 103.
Bidos 116.
Bidouze, La 105.
Bielle 119.
Bieune, the 190.
Biert 163.
Bigny 210.
Bigorre 146.
Billom 230.
Billv 195.
Binet, Mont 116.
Bionnas.sav 282.
— , Aiguille de 280. 282.1
— , Glacier de 282. I
Bious, Col de 124.
— Artigues 124. 118.
Biros, Val. de 162.
Biscaou, Pic de 124.
Biterra Septimanorum
, Col du Glacier 362.
—, Lac (Isere) 311. 346.
j (Pyr.) 145.
— , Pie(GrandesRousses)
! 346.
Blancarde, La 438.
Blanquefort 52.
jBlanzv 183.
'Blavettes, Les 842.
Blaye 54.
iBle'one 371.
Blesle 253.
Bleu, Lac 130. 144. 149.
I 158.
IBlevmard, Le 375. 376.
— , Col du 375.
Blonniere, La 292.
Bloye 266.
Bobbio 369.
Boeage, Le 16. 24.
iBochard, Aig. du 276.
iBocognano 465.
JBoen 229.
iBoeufs-Rouges, Crete des
358. 359. ^
Bois, Le 305.
Bois, Les 300.
— , Glacier des 276.
Bois-de-Ce'ne 29.
Boisset (Cantal) 255.
BoUene, La 456.
— la-Croisierp 412.
Bonaguil, Chat, de 8S.
Bonaveau, Chal. de 2J2.
Bon-Encontre 67. 89.
Bonheur, Ruisseau du
387.
Bonhomme, Col du 284.
— , Croix du 284.
— , Rocher du 284.
Bonifacio 465.
Bonnac 162.
Bon-Nant, the 270. 283.
Bonne, the 338.
Bonnefemme, Rocher de
la 284.
Bonne-Pierre , Glac. de
la 361.
, Vallon de la 354.
, Ref. de la 355.
361. 364.
Bonneval 317.
-- les-Bains 301.
Chalet de 284.
85. ■ I Bonneville 268.
Bize 84. IBonnieux 426.
Blachiere, La 842. Bonrepos, Chat, de 337.
Blaitiere, Aig. de 276.'Bon,'<on 229.
277. |Bons-St. Didier 264. 271.
Blajoux 384. Bonvoisin, Pic de 359.
Blanc, Le 7. iBoo-Silhens 125.
Borce. Chalet de 272.
Bordeau, Chateau de 266.
Bordeaux 41.
AUees de Tourny 46.
AmpUitheatre 47.
Bathing Estab. 45.
Botanical Garden 47.
Bridge 44.
— . Railway tut(ular44.
Cathedral '49.
Church of St. Andre 49.
— St. Eloi 51.
— St. Louis 46.
— St. Slichel 51.
— St. Seurin 47.
— Ste. Croix 51.
— Ste. Eulalie 50.
Cloeher PevberlandSO.
— St. Michel 51.
Cours d'Als.-Lor. 45.
— de rintend. 46.
— du Chapeau-Rouge
46.
— Victor-Hugo 45. 50.
Custom House 45.
Deaf and Dumb Asv-
lum 48.
English Park 47.
Exchange 45.
Faculties of Sciences,
etc. 50.
Font, des 3 Graces 45.
Harbour 44.
Hospital of St. Andre'
50.
— , Foundling 51.
— for Old Men 51.
Hotel de Ville 48.
Jardin Public 47.
Lyce'e Xational 50.
Slarche des Grands-
Hommes 47.
Musee de Peinture 48.
Museum of Kat. Hist.
47.
— , Prehistoric 47.
Notre-Dame 46.
Palais de Justice 50.
— Gallien 47.
Place de la Bourse 45.
— de la Comedie 46.
— des Quinconces 4.5.
— Gambetta 48.
Pont de Bordeaux 44.
Porte de Bourgogne 45.
— de I'Hot. -de -Ville,
50.
— du Cailhau 45.
— Royal e 45.
Prefecture 46.
Prison 50.
Railway Stations 41.
Rostral Columns 45.
INDEX.
'BORDEAUX. I
I Rue Judaique 46.
— Ste. Catherine 46. i
Stat, of Montaigne 46.
I — Montesquieu 46.
— Tournv 47.
; Theatre, Grand 46.
— Francais 47.
Borderes l50.
Bordes, Les 162.
— de-Labaeh 156.
[— I'Herz 113.
Bords 26.
Bormes 446.
Borne 253.
-, the 248. 268.
Borredon 70.
Borreon, Case, du 456.
Borrigo. Vallee 469.
Bort 246.
Bosses du Dromadaire
277.
Bossey-Veyrier 268.
Bossons, Les 279.
— , Glac. des 271. 278.
Bottianella. Lago di 466.
Bouaye 29.
Bouc, Canal du 423.
Boucau, Le 60.
Boucharo, Port de 139.
Bouches-du-Rhone. De-
part, of the 431.
BoucliPt, Vallon de 368.
Bouc-la-Malle 429.
Boiicoiran 395.
Bouguenais 29.
Roulerie, La 446.
Houletcrnere 176.
Boulieu 198.
Boulou, Le 179.
Boum, Pic de 158.
BounPou, Trou de 157.
Bouque'ron 325.
Bouquet, Guidon and
Serres du 395.
Bourbon-Busset, Chat, de
203.
— TArchambault 194.
— Vendee 16.
Bourbonnais, the 192.
Bourboule, La 244.
Bourbre, the 318.
Bourdeau, Chat, de 266.
Bourdeilles 41.
Bourg (Ain). 188.
Bourganeuf 226.
Bourg-Ars:ental, 198.
, Loop of 198.
— d'Arud 348.
— d-Oisans 335. 345.
— dOueil 156.
Bourgeade 240.
Bourses 206.
473
Bourget, Le 266.
Bourget, Lac du 264. 265.
Bourg-Lastic 246.
— Madame 178.
Bourgoin 318.
Bourg-St.Andeol 391.
— St. Maurice 301.
Bournazel, Chat, de 87.
Bourne, Gorges de la 328.
Bournezeau 16.
Bourroux, Patur. de 122.
Bousquet-d'Orb, Le 379.
Boussac 34.
Boussens 114.
Bout-du-Lae 291.
— du-Moude 332.
Boutinenque, Ravin de
379.
Boutonne, the 19. 20.
Bouveret, Le 272.
Bouzanne, the 34.
Bouzoise. the 182.
Bouzols, Chat, de 252.
Bovinant, Col de 326.
Boyardville 23.
Bezel 307.
Bratl'es, Pointe des 268.
Brague, the 447.
Bram 79.
Bramabiau, Source de
387.
Bramans 315.
Brame-Farine 332.
Bramousse. Val. de 368.
Brandes 346.
Brando 468.
Brantome 39.
iBrassac CPuv-de-D.) 205.
— , Grand 4i.
Braus, Col de 456.
Brech, tlie 456.
Breche de Roland 139.
(fausse) 138.
— , Glac. de la 139.
Breda, the 332.
Brede, La 63.
Bregnier-Cordon 261.
Breil 456.
Brenne, La 34.
Brenoux 382.
Brens 261.
Brenva, Glac. de la 285.
Brequin, Mont 313.
Brescou, lie de 86.
Bresse, the 188.
Bressuire 16.
Bretonniere, La 24.
Breuil, Le 205.
Brevenne, the 223.
Bre'vent, the 278.
— , Col du 269.
— , Lac du 278.
Bre'vieres, Les 302
474
INDEX.
Brianjon 343.
— . Chat, de 299.
— , Mont 253.
Bric-Bouehet, Le 369.
— Froid, Le 369.
Brides-les-Bains 307.
Brigaatium 343.
Brignoles 429.
Brignoud 329.
Brillanne, La 426
Brionne, La 226.
Brioude 206. 253.
Brive 91. 247.
— Chare nsae, 252.
Brives-Che'rae 10.
Brotteaux, Les 210. 260
Brou, Chateau de 3.
— , Church of 188.
Brouffier, Mines 334.
Brouilla 179.
Brouillard, Glacier du
231.
Brouis, Col de 456.
Brousset, Case, de 124.
Broutay, Chat, de 34.
Brouzet 395.
Bruges 52.
Brun, Cap 442.
Bruniquel 94.
Budeliere-Chambon 225.
Buech, the 340. 370.
Buet, the 270. 288.
Buflfa, La 365.
BuiTere, Col de 367.
Bugarach, Pech de 171.
Buglose 59.
Bugue, Le 87.
Buisme, the 274.
BuisBon, Le 12. 87.
Bujaruelo 139.
Burat, Pales de 158.
Burdigala 43.
Bure, Pic de 340.
Burg, Le 91.
Burgin, Dent de 307.
Burle, Fontaine de 385.
Buron, Chat, de 205.
Bussac 29.
Busseau-d'Ahun 225.
Busset 203.
Bussiere-Oaland 10. 38.
Uussoleno 313.
Buxieres-les-Mines 194.
Huxy 185.
Buzancais 32.
Buzy 116. 118.
Cabaliros, the 130.
Cabanes, Les 94.
Cabannes, Les 167.
I'abaretou, Col de 380.
Cabariot 26.
Cabbe-Roquebrune 447.
Cabellio 424.
Cabrils, Les 379.
Cacadogne, Pie de 242.
Cadaujac 63.
Cade'ac 150.
Cadenet 426.
Cadi, Granges de 177.
— , Plateau de 177.
Cadillac, 64.
Cadouin 87.
Csesarista 439.
Csesar's Camp 146.
Cagnes 447.
Cahors 88._
Cahuzac 95.
Cailar, Le 400. 423.
Caillaouas, Lac de 155.
Caillet, the 276.
Cajarc 93.
Calade, La 427.
Calbiere, Grotte de la
166.
Calenzana 468.
Caluire 224.
Calvi 468.
Calvo, Monte 455.
Camargue, the 423.
— , lie de 423.
Camarques 376.
Cambasque, Val. de 130.
Canibo 63.
Canibon 386.
Campagnae 378.
Campagnan 381.
Campagne-sur-Aude 171.
Cam pan 150.
— , Val. de 149.
Campbieil , Val. de 140.
Campcardos, Pie de 169.
Campi Putridi 429.
Camplong, Mont de 141.
Camp-Major 438.
Campoloro 465.
Camporosso 460.
Camprieu.x 387.
Campus Cravus or La-
pideus 424.
Canadel, Le 446.
Canard, Aig. or Bee du
351.
Canauley 56.
Canaveilles, Graus des
178.
Cance, the 198.
Canceru 129.
Canet, Le 425. '
Can franc 118. 1
Canigou, the 177.
CaniUo 169. ;
Cannes 448.
Canonica, La 467. '
Cantal. Depart, of 254.
Cantal, Monts du235. 253.
— , Plomb du 235. 253. 254.
Cantaous 114.
Cantorbe 378.
Cap-Breton 560.
Capdenac 93. 97.
Cape, Ravin de 143.
Capendu 82.
Capestang 84.
Capoulet 166.
Capuein, Salon du 243.
— , Pic du 242. 243.
— , Tete du 353.
Capucins des Mees 426.
Capvern 114.
Carbunne 115.
Carbonniere, Tour 400.
Carcanieres 171.
Carcans 56.
— , Etang de 56.
Carcassonne 79.
Cardoua, Plat, de 121.
Carei, Torent de 459.
Carenca, Gorges and Lac
de 178.
Carlitte, Col de 179.
— , Desert de 179.
— , Puy de 169. 179.
Carmaux 96.
Carnoules 445.
Caronte, Etang de 424.
Caroux, Le 380.
Carpentnracte 418.
Carpentras 418.
Carre, Lac 333.
— , Glacier 353.
Carrefour (Meije) 353.
Carrelet, Ref. du 354.
355. 357.
Carrey, Le 307.
Carro, Cime du 304.
— , Col and Glac. du318.
Carsicis Portus 438.
Carte, Chat, de la 12.
Casamozza 467.
Cascade, Col de la 139.140.
— Anglaise, the 177.
— de-Couz 273.
Casque, the 138.
— de Neron, the 324.
Casse-Deserte, Col de la
357
, Glac. de la 363.
Casset, Le 337. 366.
— , Glac. du 366.
Cassis 438.
Castagnedc 162.
Castaing, Granges de 159.
Casteill 177.
Casfeilla 179.
Castelbouc 384.
Castel-DeHino 368. 369.
Castel franc 88.
INDEX.
475
Castel-Gaillard 89.
Castellane 372.
Castellar 460.
Castel-llinier 164.
Castelnau, Col de 356
Castelnau d'Azun 122.
Castelnaud 87.
Castelnau dary 79.
Castelnau-de-Levis 9.5
— d'Estretefonds 70.
Castelsarrasin 68.
Castelvieil 154.
Castet 163.
Castex-Lectoure 89.
Castillon (Alpes -Marit.)
459.
— (Ariege) 162.
— (Gironde) 12.
— , Chat, de 394.
Castres 79. 379.
Castries 406.
Cattlar 176.
Catiiriga 341.
Caubous 156.
Caueo lUibevis 175.
Caudos 58.
Caudrot 64.
Caumont 162.
Cannes 82.
Cauro 464.
Caussade 70.
Cansses, the 378.
Cauterets 126.
— , Val. dn Gave de 126.
Cauvalat, Bains de 401.
Caux 381.
Cavaillon 425.
Cavalaire 446.
Cavalerie, La 378.
Cavaliere 446.
Cavignae 29.
Cayan, Plat, de 132.
Cazals 94.
Cazaux (Gironde) 57.
— , Ktang de 57.
— (Htes.-Pvr.) 150. 156.
— Debat 150.
— de-l'Arboust 155.
Gaze, Chat, de la 385.
Cazeres-sur-Garonne 115.
Cazoules 87.
Cazouls-les-Be/.iers 86.
Cecire, Pic de 156. 1.57.
CeiIhes-Uo(iueronde 378.
Ceillac 368.
— , Chaine de 368.
Celard, Col a59.
Celas 392. 395.
Cele, the 93.
Celle-Bruere, I.a 210.
Cellette, La 246.
Celliers 299.
Celon 34.
Cemenelium 455. jCbalon-sur-Saone 184.
Oendre-Oreet, Le 205. Chalp, La 369.
Cenevieres 9.3. Chalus 11.
Cenise, the 315. jChalus, Chat, de 205.
Centre, Canal du 183. 184. Chalusset, Chat, de 38.
194.
Ce'pie 170.
Cerbere 176.
Cerbillona, the 132
Cerdagne 179.
Cere, the 254.
Ceresule 304.
Ce'ret 179.
Cerisey, Case, de 131.
Cerizay 16.
Ce'rons 64.
Cerru, Le 304.
Certamussat 342.
Cerveyrette, the 344.
Cervieres .344.
Cervione 467.
Cesanne 344.
Cessenon 86.
Cessieu 319.
Cette m\ 406.
Cette-Eygun 117.
Ceuse, kont de 340.
Cevennes, the 375.
— , JJorthern 228.
Cevins 29S.
Cevrat 239.
Ceyreste 438.
Ceyssat, Col de 237.
Ceyzeriat 190
Chamalieres (Haute-
Loire) 248.
— (Puy-de-D6me) 237.
140.|Chambertin 182.
jChambery 296.
Clianibeyron, Aig. de342.
— , Brec de 341.
[Chamblet-Neris 225.
Chambon 20. 225.
-, Lac 246.
— FeugeroUes, Le 247.
Chaniborigaud 376.
Chamborne 252.
Chambran 367.
Chambre, La 299. 313.333.
Chamechaude, Pie de 326.
Chamois, Col des 356.
Chamonix 274.
— , Val. de 27.5.
Chainousset 322.
Champagne 191.
Champagne (Grande) 9.
— (Petite) 9.
Champagny-le-Bas 306.
— le-Haut 305.
— , Ravine of 306.
Champ- de -Mars, Signal
du 390.
Champdieu 229.
Cezanne, Ref. 358. 3-59. Champ-Embran 349.
361. [Champel 282.
Ceze, the 394. ,Champelet 283.
Cezy, Pic de 122. iChampery 272.
Chabanais 10. jCliamphurent 349.
Chabarrou, Pic and Lac Champigny-sur-Veude
I 14.
de 1,S3
Chabenet 34.
Chaberton, tlie 344.
-, Col du 344.
Chabeslan 370.
Chablais, the 271.
Chables, Les 277.
Chablettes, Les 269.
Chabons 319.
Chabottes 341.
Chabreloche 2.30.
Chagne, the 367.
Chagny 183.
Chai.se, the 294.
— , Bains de la 30.
Chaise-Dieu, La 2.52.
Chaize-le-Vicomte 16
Chalais 11.
— , Convent of 203.
Chalanches 347.
Chalanson, P<)intede316.'Cliantenav
Challans 29. 192.
Clialles, Bains de 295. IClianteiiges 375
Cliampillet-Urcier 34.
(Jhamplong - de - Lozere
376.
Cliamps, Les 299.
Champ-St. Pere 24.
Champsaur, the 341.
Clianipsiau.\ 91.
Champtereier 371.
Chamrousse , Croix de
331.
Chanac S83.
Cliancel, Ref. 366.
Chancy-Pongny 262.
Cliandieu-Toussieu 318.
Chaniers 28.
Chanon 225.
Chanrouge, t!ol de 307.
Chantelle 195.
Cliantemerle 337.
t. Imbert
t76
INDEX.
Chantonnay 16.
Chapareillan 330.
Chapeau, the 277.
Chapeauroux 375.
Chapelle-du-Bard 332.
— en-Valgodemar 352.
— St. Aventin 154.
— St. Ursin, La. 209.
— Vieseamp, La 255.
Chapelles, Les 300.
Chapieux, Les 284.
Chapiu 284.
Chapuis, Chalet 292.
Charbonel, Pointe and
Glae. de 316.
Cliarbonnieres 228. 384.
— , Chat, des 312.
Chardon, Glac. and Col
du 357.
Chardonet, Rochers du
306.
Chardonnet, Aig. du 280.
— , Col du 280.
— , Pav. du 287.
Ohardonnieres, Glac. des
316.
Charence , Mont de 340.
Charente, the 8. 25.
— , Dep. of the 8.
Charix 191.
— , Moulin de 191.
— le-Haut 191.
Charlanoz 278.
Charlieu 183.
(Jharmaix 313.
Charmant 11.
Charmant-Som , the 325.
Charmes 390.
Charmette, Col de la 325.
Charmettes, Les 297.
Charmine , Saut de 190.
Charmoz, Aig. de 277.
276.
Charnier, Gr. et Pet. 333.
— , Col de 340.
Charolais 195.
CharoUes 194.
Charras 25.
Oharriere , Tete and
Breche de 354. 3^64.
— des-Masques 367.
Charroux 7.
Chars d'Amo 268.
Chartilly, Chat, de 193.
Chartreuse, Grande 325.
Charvin, the 295.
Cha.sal, Le 347.
Chassagne, Chat, de 193.
Chasse 407.
Chasseforet,l)omede311.
Chasseneuil 3.
— sur-Bonnieure 10.
Chassenon 10.
Chas.sezac, the 394.
Chat, Dent du 266.
— , Grotte du 158.
— , Mont du 265.
— , Pas du 149. 353.
Chateau-Arnoux 371.
Chateaubrun 34.
Chateau-Dauphin 368.
— d'Oleron 26.
— Laflitte 53.
— Latour 53.
— I'Eveque 38.
Chateaumeillant 34.
Chateauneuf (Alpes-
Marit.}, 455.
— (Drome) 411.
— de-Randon 375.
— les-Bains 205.
— sur-Charente 9.
— sur-Cher 210.
— , Puy de 246.
Chateau-Ponsac 7.
— Queyras 344. 368.
— Renard 419.
Chateauroux (Indre) 31.
— (Htes.-Alpes) 342.
Chateix, Puy de 236.
Chatelaillon 25.
Chatelard, Le (Hte.-
Savoie) 271.
— (Switzerland) 288.
— , Pointes du 316. 317.
Chateldon 204.
Chatelguyon 204.
Chatellerault 3.
Chatelleret, Ref. du 353.
354. 355.
Chatillon (Hte. -Savoie)
269.
— , Chat, de 264.
— , Cret de 292.
— de Michaille 191.
— sur-Chalaronne 189.
— sur-Indre 33.
Chatre, La 33.
Chaud, La 253.
Chaudanne, La 302.
Chaudefour, Val. de 242.
246.
Chaudesaigues 377.
Chaudronniers, Trou des
159.
Chausenque, Breche de
145.
Chaussin 184.
Chauvigny 7.
Chavagnes - les - Redoux
16.
Cliavanay 390.
Chavanon, the 246.
Chavans, Le.s 273.
Chavaroche, Puy 254.
Chavenon 194.
Chaviere 310.
— , Col and Glae. de 312.
315.
Chazay-Marcilly 196.
Chazelet. Le 364.
Chef-Boutonne 20.
Cheix 237.
Cheminee du Diable 333.
Chenavari, Volean de
391.
Chene (Suisse) 264. 267.
-, Le 426.
Chenoneeau.x 31.
Cher, the 3. 31. 225, etc.
— , Depart, of the 187.
Cheran, the 266.
Cheres-Chassel, Les 196.
Cheret, Tete de 357.
Cherte, Le 316.
Cilery 31.
Cheval-Blanc 426.
Mort, Col du 177.
Noir 299.
Rouge 353.
Chevelure-de-Madeleine,
Case, de la 155.
Chevrette, Chal. de la333.
Chevrier 267.
Cheylas-la-Bussiere, the
329.
Chiersou, Puy de 239.
Chignin-les-Marches 297.
330.
Chilly-le-Vignoble 185.
Chinaougue, La 63.
Chindrieux 264.
Chinon 13.
Chirac 378.
Chiroulet, Cab. de 149.
Chirouze, La 337.
Chiserette, La 301. 305.
Cholet 23.
Chomerac 390.
Chorges 341.
Chosalets, Les 287.
Choulieres, Les 367.
Cier-de-Luchon 151.
Cieiirac 70.
Cigalere , Roehers de
158
Cimeila 454.
Cimiez, Conv. of 454.
Cinquets, Plat, des 130.
Cintegabelle 164.
Ciotat, La 439.
Cire 20.
Cires 156.
Citeanx, Abb. de 182.
Citerne, the 388.
Citharista 439.
Ciutad, the 388.
Civitas Aquensium 59.
Civray 7.
INDEX.
477
Cize, Viaduct of 19(1.
— Bolozon 190.
Clein, the 3. 7^
Clairee, La Siii.
Claise, the 3.
Clai-x 334.
Clan 3.
Clapier, Le 247. dSb.
— , Mont 456.
— dii Pevron 348.
Clarus Mons 231.
Clausls, the Petit 341.
Claux. Le.s 360. 367.
Clavans 346.
Clavierfc.s 344.
Clefs. Les 295.
Clelles-Mens 339.
Cle'mensat 239.
Clerau.«, Glacier de 333.
Clermont-Ferrand 231.
— IHerault 85.
Clidane, the 246.
Cliergue, Puv de 242.
Clion 33.
— sur-Seugne 28.
Clisson 23.
Clochatel, Cime de 357.
Clot. Le 349.
— de la Hount 132.
— de I'Homme, Glac. du
360.
— des Cavales, Col and
Glac. du 356. 363. 364
— en-Valgodemar 352.
359.
Clou/.eau.x. Les 17.
Cluny 185. 195.
Clusaz, La 295.
Cluse, La 190.
Cluses 268.
Coarraze-Nay 110.
Coehette, Col de la 325
346.
CcEur, Case, du 1.58.
Cocx 30.
Cognac 9.
Coiron, Le 390.
Col, Lac du 333.
— . Rocher du 309.
— Rouge 307.
— Vert 177.
Colagne, the 382.
Colayrac 65.
Coletieve 319.
CoUerin, Col de 317.
-, Mont 317.
Collioure 175.
Collonges (.\in) 262.
— Fontaine 187.
Colmars 372.
Coloinbier 198.
-. Mont 261.
Colombieres 380.
Colon, the 320.
Colonia 183.
Coma Armada 179.
Combal, Lac de 295.
Combe-Bremond 342.
— d'Olle 335. 333.
Comberous.se, Co lde333.
Combeynot. Pic de 365.
Combloup. the 331.
Combloii.\ 294.
Come, Puy de 239.
Commenti-y 225. 194.
Commequiers 30.
Commere.s . Uampe des
335.
Compeyre 378.
Concoules 376.
Condamine-Chatelard
341.
Conde, Chateau 3.
Condom 65.
Condrieu 390.
Conference, He de la 98.
Conflans 298.
Conflens 63.
Cunfolens 10.
Coni 456.
Cons, Dent de 294.
Contamines-sur-8t. Ger-
vais, Les 283.
iContente, Col de 130.
Coolidge. Pic 3.55.
ICoquille, La 38.
iCorbieres 427.
-, the 82.
Cordes 95.
jCordier, Pic de Neige 362.
jCordoeil, Mont de 371.
iCordouan, Phare de 55.
'Corenc 325.
Corgoloin 182.
Cormatin 185.
Coruiery 33.
Cormet, Col du 300.
Corneilla 175.
— de Conflent 177.
Corneille, Rocher de 250.
Corneilles, Puit.< des 149.
Corniche, Route de la455.
Cornil 247.
Cornille, Le (Loire) 248.
— , Chat, de 261.
— , Mont 248. 335.
Corone. Lac 161.
— , Col i- Glacier de 161.
Corps 338.
Correze 244.
-. the 91. 247.
— , Depart, of the 247.
Corridor, the 281.
Corsavi 180.
Corse, La 460.
Corsica 460.
Corso, Capo 468.
Corte, 465.
Corvaria, Torr. de 367.
Cos, Lac dvi 333.
Cosne-sur-CEil 194.
Cosperons,Vallon de 1(6.
Costebelle, Val. de 444.
jCosteilades 376.
Coste- Rouge, Col and
I Glacier de la 358.
'Coteau. Le 183. 196.
Cote-d'Or. the 182.
Cotepen, Lac 333.
Cote-ROtie, La 390.
ICote-St. Amand, La 203.
|Cote-St. Andre', La 409.
jCoteyssard 347.
|Couard, Col du 346.
Coucoulude, Signal de
' 394.
jCdudes 205. 243.
jCoudon, Le 442.
CoulToulens-Leuc 170.
Couftburent, Gorge of 343.
|Couilens-de-Betmajou
I 163.
Couhe-Verac, 7.
[Couiza-Montazels 170.
Couldrav -Salbart. Chat.
I du 15."
Coulombiers 18.
|Co>ilon 16.
Coulonges-sur-Autise 16.
— Thouarsais 16.
,Coume-de-Bourg. Col de
la 156.
Coumely, the 138.
iCour^ais 34.
Couret 150.
-. the 148.
-. Col du 122.
Courets, Col des 158.
iCourmayeur 285.
Courmes, Gorge de 450.
Cournonterral 381.
Couronne, La 11.
Courrerie, the 326.
Cours 196.
Coursan 84.
Covirthezon 414.
Courty 204. 230.
Courzieu.x 223.
Coussac-Bonneval 91.
Cousteres, Font, de 159.
Coustouges 180.
Coutras 11. 41.
Couvercle, Cheniin de
277.
Coux, Col de 272. 269.
Couz. Case, de 295.
Couzan. Chat, de 229.
Couze, La 205.
Couzon (Loire) 227.
478
INDEX.
Couzon (Rhone) 187.
Crabe, Pont de la 135.
Crabioules, Pie de 156.
Crammont, the 286.
Cransac 97.
Crau, La 442.
— , Plains de la 424.
Crazannes, Chat, de 26.
Criche, La 18.
Creches 187.
Crechy 195.
Credo, the 262.
— , Tunnel du 262.
Creguena, Lac de 161.
Cremieu 224.
Crepin, Case, du 270.
Cressat 225.
Crest 410.
— de I'Aillon 228.
— de la Perdrix 228.
Cret de Chatillon 292.
— de la Goutte 262.
— du Rev 300.
Creuse, the 3. 34. 225.
— , Depart, of the 226.
Crevisse 12.
Creux-Noir, Pointe de
310.
Creuzot, Le 183.
Creve-Tete, Pointe de
300.
Crissolo 369.
S. Cristina 118.
Cristillan, Val. de 368.
Croisette, Cap de la 449.
Croix, La 273. 308.
— de-Feissons 299.
— de-Nivolet, Col de la
304.
— de-Toulouse, the 343.
— de-Vie 30.
— d'Hins 56.
— Haute, Col de la 339.
— Morand, Puv de la
245.
Crolles, Dent de 326. 295.
Crouzet, Col du 351.
— , Tetes du 351.
Crouzilles-St. Gilles 13.
14.
Crozant, Chat, de 34.
Croze, the 386.
Crozet, Le 332.
— , Lacs du 329.
Cruas 391.
Crueize, Viaduc de la
377.
Cruet 297.
Crussol (Italy) 369.
— Chat, de (Ardeche)
410. 390.
Cubere, Pont de 161.
Cubzac 29.
jCueumelle, La 367.
Cuers 445.
Cuguret, Tete de 342.
Cuire 221.
ICuisery 184.
jCulan 34.
'Cularo 320.
Culasse , Cirque de
178.
Culet, Le 159. 272.
Culoz 261.
Cuneo 456.
Cureilles , Granges
135.
Curtillard 333.
Cusset 198.
Cuzeau, Roc de 242.
Cuzorn 87.
Cylindre, Le 40.
— , Cheminee du 140.
Diana, Stagno di 468.
Diane 245.
— , Col de 245.
Die, 411.
Dieu, He 30.
Dieupentale 70.
Digne 3?1.
la Digoin 194.
iDijon 182.
Dingv-St. Clair 292.
Dinia 371.
Diosaz, Gorges de la 271.
de!— , Val. of the 269.
Diou 194.
Disonche, Chal. de 292.
Dissais-sur-Vienne 3.
Dive, Can. de la 15.
Dogne, the 243.
Doire, see Dora.
Dolceaequa 460.
Col and Glacier du Dolezon, the 248.
140.
Dalley, Case, du 289.
Dames, Plan des 284.
Dange' 3.
Darbellav 308.
Domanev 270.
Dombes." Les 189.
Dome, Monts 235.
— de Chasseforet 311.
— de Neige (Ecrins) 355.
— , Puy de 238.
Domene 329.
Dargilan, Grotte de 387. Dome'non, Lakes 329
Dard, Case, du 279
Darsae 253.
Dauphin, Le 336.
Dauphine 320.
Dax 59.
Dea Vocontiorum 411
Deeazeville 97.
Decines 224.
Delbos, Pre 254.
Demene, La 198.
Demoiselles ,
159.
Denguin 106.
Dent-de-CroUes 326. 295.
— du-Chat, the 266.
— du-Midi 272.
Dents Blanches 272.
De'ols 32.
Deome, La 198.
Desdouroucat, Pont 138.
Desert, the 325. 327. 334.
— de -Plate 269.
— en-ValjoufTrey 351.
Deserts, Les 297.
Detroit, the 385.
Deux-Sevres , De'p.
18.
Devohiv, the 339.
Dheune", the 183.
Diable, Chemine'e
333.
— , Pont du 332. 348.
— , Ruisseau du 348. 350.
— , Tour du 175.
Domerat 225.
Domeyrat, Chat, de 206.
Dompierre-Sept-Fonts
194.
— sur-Mer 214.
Don-.Tean-Mauriee. Croix
de 316.
Donnazac 95.
Donzere 411.
Dora Baltea 285.
Case, des* — Riparia 314.
Dorat, Le 7.
Dordogne, the 11. 29. 41.
Sr. 92. 241. 235. 240.
— , Dep. of the 39.
Dore, the(Allier) 204. 230.
-. La (Puv-de-D.) 243.
Dore, Monts 235. 243.
Doron de Beaufort, the
298.
— deSalins, the 298. 306.
Dortan 190.
Douch 380.
Doumiselles, Grotte des
400.
Dourbie, Vallev of the
389.
Doussard 291.
Doussetiere, La 3.
Douzes, Les 387.
Dove, Mont 252.
Doyet-la-Presle 194.
Drac, the 327. 33?.
Draguignan 445.
des
du
INDEX.
479
Drance, the 273.
Drivant 210.
Drome, the 411.
— , Dep. of the 410.
Dronne, the 11. 39.
DrOHX 7.
Dm, Aiguille du 277. 276
Druve 12,
Dufau 110.
Duhamel, Pvramide 353
Duis, Cab. he la 304.
Duingt 291.
Dun-sur-Aiiron, or
— le-Roi 209.
Dunieres-Montfaucon 198
Durance, the370. 419. 426.
Durand, Pic de la Pyra-
mide 360.
Duranus 456.
Duravel 88.
Durban 82.
Durbize, Plat, de 242.
Durenque, the 79.
DuroUe, the 230.
Durtol 240.
Eau-Morte, the 293.
Eau-Noire, the 288.
Eaux-Bonnes 119.
— Chaudes 122.
, Grotto of 123.
— Rouges, Le8 286.
Eauze 65.
Ebreuil 224.
Ebrodunum 342.
Echaillon,Chal.der331
— , Bee de V 319. I
Echauda, Col and Lac de
r 367.
— , Vallon de 1' 367.
Echaudan, Defile of 456.
Echelle, Pas de 1' 268.
— , Pierre a 1' 279._
— , Pointe de 1' 315.
— , Pont de V 135.
Echellps, Les 35. 295.
— de Pilate 148.
Echire 15.
Ecluse, Defile 267.
— , Fort de 1' 262.
Ecot, L" 318.
Ecoutas, Les 385.
Ecrins, Barre des 354.
355. 361.
— . Glac. and Col des
355. 359. 361.
Ecutieux 268.
Egletons 246.
Eglise, L' lOi.
Eglisottes, Les 11.
Egourgeou, Lac 369.
Eguzo n 34.
Eletca 170.
Elne 175.
Elusa 65.
Embrun 342.
Emile-Pic, Col 362. 359.
364.
Emparis, Plateau d' 362.
Encausse 114.
Encel, Pa.s d' 272.
Enchiitra 351.
— , Aig. de r 348.
— , Case, de 1' 348.
Enclaves, Col d' 283.
— , Tete d' 284.
Enclos, Porte de 1' 326.
Encombres , Perron des
313. I
Encourtiech, Chat, d' 163. \
Encula, Glac. de 1' 361.]
Enfer, Case, GouflVe and
Rue d' fPvr.) 157. 158.
— , Gorge d' (Auv.) 243.
— , Pic de (Pvr.) 133.
— , Pont d' (Pvr.) 117.
— , Trou d' (Pvr.) 164.
Enfetehores, the 364.
Engins 327. 328.
— , Gorges, Portes d' 328.
327.
Eugommer 162.
Enhaut, Ruisseau d' 353.
Enteeade, Pie de V 160.
Entraigups 358. 359. 365.
Entre-deux-Eau.x 310.
— deux-Mers 29.
— les-Aigues 359.
Entressen 424.
Entrevaux 372.
.Entreves 285.
Epannes 20.
Epanvilliers 7.
'Epaule, the 138.
Epernon, Chat, d" 64.
Eperviere , the Grande
341.
Epierre 313.
Eras-Taillades,Picd' 122.
Erce 163.
Ereoueil, Lacs d' 161.
Erieux, the 390.
Ermitage, L' 40i 444.
Erran, Prairies d' 158.
Ersa 468.
Escaldas, Las (Andorra)
169.
(Pyr.-Orient.) 179.
Escalette, Pas de 1' 160.
Escalier du Roi 394.
Escalquens 79.
Escarene 456.
Escot 116.
Escou 116.
Escoubous, Val. d' 145.
Escoubous. Lac d' 14.5.
Escougous, Val d" 145.
Escouloubre 171.
Escreins 367.
Escrinet. Col de 1' 390.
Espade, Pic d' 145.
Espagne, Pont d' 131.
Espalion 98.
Espaly 251.
Esperaza 171.
Espiadet 150.
Espingo, Lac d' 1.55.
Espinous, Mont del' 380.
Esplumous, Case, d' 132.
Espondeilhan 381.
Esponne, Plat, d' 130.
Espugnette, Cab. d" 139.
Esquierry, Val d' 155.
Esquiou, Plaine d" 148.
Esquit, Pont d" 117.
Esseillon, Forts de 1' 315.
Esserts-Blay 298.
Estables, Les 2.52.
Estagel 174.
Estaque, L' 425.
Estaube, Val d' 141.
Estax, Pie d' 167.
Estebat. Pie d" 163.
Esterel, 3Ionts 446.
Estom, Lac d' 134.
— Soubiran,Col and La-
kes of 134.
Estomae, Etang de 1" 424.
Estours, Val. d' 163.
Estranguille, L' 157.
Estressin 407.
Etages. Les 349. 351. 353.
— . Vallon des 357.
Etale, Rocher de 1' 295.
Etan^on, Vallon and
Glac. des 3.53. 356.
Etangs, Plan des 160.
Etendard, the 346.
Etoile 411.
Etret, Tete de 1' 352.
Etsaut 117.
Eugenie-les-Bains 59.
Euzet 392.
Evaux 225.
Evette,s , Col and Glac.
des 316.
Evian-les-Bains 272.
Evionnaz 273.
Evires 267.
Evrunes-Mortagne 23.
Excideuil 38.
Eychauda, Col and Lac
de 1' 267.
Evgliere, Pointe and Col
de r 359.
Eygues, the 412.
Eyguians-Orpierre 370.
Eyguieres 423.
480
INDEX.
Eygun 117.
Evgurande-Mevlines 246.
'225.
Eymuutiei-s 38.
Eyrein 246.
Evzies, Les 87.
Eza 447. 456.
Fabregues 381.
Eabrezan 82.
Fache, Grande 133.
Facture 56.
FaisaiLs, lie des 103.
Fajole, La 172.
Falicon 455.
Fanges, Foret des 171.
Fare, Lac de la 346.
— , Refuge de la 346.
Fargue, La 1(1.
Farlede, La 444.
Faucon 341.
Fauga 115.
Faugeres 381.
Faviguerolles 65.
Faurie, La 340.
Faurio, Roche 354. 361.
Fauteuil, the 293.
Faverges 293.
Fay, Le 273.
Fayet, Le 270. 294.
Fees, Grotte des 400.
Feissons - sous - Briancon
299.
— sur-Salins 299.
Felletin 226.
Fenestra, Val. of 245.
Fenevrols 94.
Fer-a-Cheval, the 269.
Ferrand, Grand 339. 342.
— , Lac 339.
— , Pont 340.
— , Puy 243.
Ferret, Cape 58.
— , Col 286.
— , Val. 285. 280.
Ferriere, La 333.
Ferrieres-St. Mary 253,
Ferte-Hauterive, La 195.
— St. Aubin, La 30.
Fetoules, Chaine des 348.
— , Col des 352.
— , Glacier and Tete des
351.
FengaroUes 65.
Feurs 197.
Feyzin 407.
Fier, the 266. 267.
— , Defile, Gorges, Portes
du 266.
— , Val de 266.
Fifre,, the 355.
Figeac 93. 256.
Figuier, Cap du 102.
Filliere, the 267.
Finhaut 289.
Finiels 365.
— , Col and Pic de 376.
Fins-Hauts 289.
Firminy 247. 409.
Firmy 97.
Fitou 173.
Fix-St. Geneys 253.
Flaine, Lac de 270.
Flanibeau.x, the 280.
Flegere, the 277.
Fleuranee 89.
Florae 383.
Floria, Aig. de la 277.
Flotte, La"23.
Floure 82.
Flumet 294. 295.
Foce, La 4G5.
Foecv 206.
Foi.x"l65.
Folelli-Orezza 466.
Fonciere, Pavilion 279.
Foneillon 55.
Fond-de-Franee, Cascade
du 333.
Fond-de-la-Combe 269.
F"onds, Col des 2?0.
— , Chal. des 269.
— , Val. des 269.
Fonneuve 70.
Fons 395.
Fonserannes (locks) 85.
Fontaine (Isere) 300. 327.
— Gaillarde 318.
— Ozillae 28.
— Rouge 158.
Fontaines 183.
— d'Ugines 294. 298.
Fontan 456.
Fontanat 237.
Fontanes 171.
Fontanette 309.
Fontanil 32,5.
Fontarabie 103.
Fonte, the 386.
Fontenay-le-Conite 24.
Fontgonibault 3.
Fontpedrouse 178.
Font Sancte, the 367.
Fontvieille 423.
F^orcaUiuier 426.
ForcioUine, Val 370.
Forclaz, Col de la (Hte-
Savoie) 270.
(Switzerland) 273.
289.
Foreant. I>ac 369.
— , Valbin de 368. 369.
Forets, Granges des 339.
Forez, the 197.
Forgevieille 34.
Formigueres 111.
Fornet, Le 304.
Fornets 301.
Forno 318.
Foron, the 268.
Fort-les-Bains 180.
Forum Julii 446.
Eos 424.
Fossette, La 446.
Fou, Gorge de la 180.
Fouille, Col de la 339.
FouiUouse 229. 342.
FouiUy, Le 270. 271.
Fouran, Puinte de 342.
Fouras 25.
Fourcanade, Pic 161.
Fourchier 367.
Fournau.x 226.
Fourneau.x, Les 313.
Fournels 377.
Fournou.x, Fort 341.
Fours, Alpe des 270.
— , Col des 284.
— , Pointe des 284.
Fourtic 65.
Fourvoirie 325.
Foux, La 446.
Fraisse, Le 380.
Fraisse-Unieiix 198. 248.
Fraissinet - de-Fourques,
383.
Framiquel, Port de 169.
Francardo 466.
France, Hosp. de 154.
Franchet .302.
Franqui, Grau de la 172.
Frate, the 466.
Frayol 391.
Freaux, Les 336.
Freehe, Val de la 159.
Freehet-Cazaux 150.
Frede, Pic du 313.
Fredet, the 246.
Freissinouse, La 340.
Frejus 445,
— , "Col de 314.
— , Golfe de 445.
Freney, Le 335. 346.
Fressinieres , Valley of
343.
Frette, Col de 301.
Frety, Mont 286.
Freychinet 339.
Freydieres 329.
Freyssinet, Le 367.
Frib\ige 305.
Frioul, Port de 438_.
F'romage, Col de 368.
Fromental 35.
Froiisac (Gironde) 11.
— (Hte-Garonne) 161.
Frontenay-Rohan 20.
Froutenex 297.
INDEX.
481
Frontignaii 406.
Frugieres-le-Pin 206. '2r)'d
Fruit, Aig. du 306.
-, Chal. du 306.
Fruitier,Pavil.dM286.281.
Fuentarabia 103.
Fumades, Les 394.
F\iniel 88.
Fure, the 319.
Furens, the 228.
Furon, Gorges du 327.
Ga, Le 342.
Gabas 123.
Gabian 381.
Gabietou, the 138.
Gabizos, Pics de 122.
Gadagne 425.
Gagnieres 394.
— , the 394.
Gagniet, Bois de 394.
GaUlac (Tarn) 96.
Gaillagos 122.
Gaillard, Castle 89.
Gaillarde, La 446.
Galbert, Grand 335.
Galibier, Grand and Petit
336.
— . Col du 336.
Galie 51.
Galise, Col de la 304.
Gallargues 401.
Gallician 423.
Gan 115.
Gandoliere , Tete de la
353.
Ganges 400.
Gannat 204.
Gap 340.
Garabit, Viad. de 377.
Garbet, the 164.
— , Lac de 164.
(iarcin, Le 335.
Gard, the 392.
— , Depart, of the 395.
— , Pont du 392.
Gardanne 429.
Garde, La (I.iere) 344.
— (Var) 444.
— , Chat, de la 163.
— , Fort de la 180.
Garde-Adhe'mar 412.
Gardette, Pont de la 141.
(iardies 378.
Gardon, the 392.
— d'Alais 376.
• largas, Grotte de 114.
t^argilesse 34.
Garin 156.
(^arnache, la 29.
Uaronne, the 12. 29. 43.
64. 75, etc.
Baedeker. Southern
(Taronnette, La 446.
Garoupe, Cap de la 447.
Garrigue. La 171.
Gars, Pic du 151.
Garses, Etang des 160.
Gartempe, the 6. 35.
Gas, Le 331.
(Jascony 90.
Gaspard, Pic 363.
Gassin 446.
Gatuzieres 383.
Gaube. Lac <fe Pic de 131.
Gauchoirs, Les 348.
Gauriaguet 29.
Gavarnie 138.
— , Case, de 139.
— , Cirque de 138.
— , Gave de 136.
— , Port de 139.
Gaz, Le 105. 319.
Gazinet 56.
Gazost 125.
Ge'ant, Aig. du 276. 280.
— , Col du 286. 281.
—, Glacier du 276.280.281,
Ge'ants, Pave des 391 . 393.
Gebroulaz, Chal. de 307
— , Col de 311.
Gedre 138. 140.
Gela, Pic de la 141.
Gelie, La 87.
Gelise, the 65.
Genetouze, La 30.
Geneva 262.
— , Lake of 263.
Genevre, Mont 344.
Genin, Lac 190.
Genolbae 376.
Gensac-la-Pallue 10.
Geny, Pic 353.
Ger, Pic de 121.
Gerbier-de-Jonc, Le 252,
Gerde 149.
Gere, the 407.
Gergovie, Plat, de 239.
Gers, the 89.
— , Dep. of the 90.
— , Lac de 269.
Gerzat 205.
Gesse 171.
Gessens, Phare de 266.
Gevaudan, Le 382.
Gevrey 182.
Ghisonnaecia 468.
Giatla 317.
Giaglione 316.
Giandola 456.
Gicon, Chateau de 391.
Giens 444.
— , Peninsula of 444.
Gier, the 227.
— , Saut du 229.
Gieres-Uriage 329.
France.
Giettaz, La 295.
Giflre, Val. du 272. 268.
Gilly 194.
Gimel 247.
Gimone, La 78.
Gimont-Cahuzac 78.
Gineste, Col du 456.
Ginoles 171.
Girard, Col de 318.
Girardin, Col de 368.
Giraud-Le'zin, Breche
356.
Gironde 64.
— , the 52. 53. 54.
— . Dep. of the 43.
Gittaz, La 284.
Gitte, the 284.
— , Val. de la 298.
Givors 227.
Givors-Canal 226.
Givry 185.
Glace, Lac (Isere) 333.
— — , Col du 333.
Glacier, .4ig. du 284.
— , Col du 283.
— , Hameau du 284.
Glaeier-Blane, Col du
362.
Glaciers, Les 284.
— , Aig. des 284.
— , Glac. des 283.
— , Torrent des 301.
-, Val. des 284.
Glaire, Val. de 145.
Glaize, Mont, de 340.
Glandaz, Mont 411.
Glanum Livii 419.
Gleizobles 341.
Glere. Cirque and Col de
la 160.
Glevzin, Chal. de 329.
333.
— , Glac. de 333.
Gliere, the 308.
— , Chal. de la 309.
— , Pointe de la 310.
Goleon, Aig. or Signal
de 364.
Golese, Col de la 269. 272.
Golette, Col de la 303.
Golfe-Jouan-Vall.. 446.
Golo, the 467.
Goncelin 329.
Gonfaron 445.
Gontiere, Aig. de 304.
Gorbio 459.
— , Val. de 459.
Gorges 23.
Gorgutes, Lac de 160.
Got, Le 87.
Gouaux-de-l'Arbou.st 156.
GounVe-d'Enfer. the 228.
Goulens 89.
31
482
INDEX.
Goulet, Mont, du 375.
Goulets, Gr. and Pet. 328.
Goult 426.
Goupey, Pie de 122.
Gourdon 91.
— , Roc de 390.
Gourg-de TOra 460.
Gourrette 122.
Gourgon, Granges de 157.
Goiir-Saillant, the 203.
Gours-Blancs, Pic des
155.
Gourzy, the 121.
Gofiter, Aig. du 2T7. 281.
— , Dome du 271. 277.
281.
Gragnague 97.
Gi-aian Alps 298.
Graissessac 379.
Gramat 92.
Grammont, the 286.
Granace, Col de 464.
Grand, Lac 134.
Grand-Arc, the 298. 313.
— Bee, the 305.
— Berard, the 341.
— Bornand 295.
— Brassac, Le 41.
— Charnier, the 333.
— Chatelard 313.
— Cirque 3.57.
— Col 301.
— Couloir (Meije) 353.
Grand'Combe 376.
— Croix (Loire) 227.
— — (Savoy) 316.
Grand-Crossey, Defile of
the 319.
Grande-Aiguille 320. 357.
— Aiguillette 320. 357.
(Trande- Aiguille Eousse
304.
— Casse, the 306. 310.
, Glac de la 309.
— Chartreuse, the 325.
— Cote, the 299.
— Croi.K, the 315.
■ — Eperviere, the 341.
— Faehe, the 133.
— Lance, the 347. 329.
— Montagne , Coinbe de
la 313.
— Motte,the306. 305. 310
— Ruine, the 363.
, Col de la 356.
— — , Glacier de la 363.
— Sassiere, Aig. de la
303.
— Sauldre, the 30.
Grandes -.lorasses , the
276. 2oO.
— Rousses, tlie 346.
Grande-Vudene, the 329.
Grand-Ferrand 339. 342,
— Fond, Pointe du 316.
— Galbert 335.
— Galibier, Roclie du
365.
— Lay 16.
— Lemps 319.
— Lieu, Lac de 29.
-- Logis 326.
— Marchet 309. 308.
~ Mieeau 313.
— Montoir 292.
— Pic de Belledonne347.
— Plateau 281.
— Pressigny, Le 3.
— Rhone, the 423.
— Roc Noir 316.
— Rubren 342.
— Saleve 268.
Grands-Couloirs, Pointe
des 310.
— Goulets 328.
— Montets, Col des 287.
— Mulets 281.
Grand-Som, the 326.
— Suchet, Puv du 239.
— Tanargue 394.
— Vallon, Pointe du316.
— Veymont, the 339.
Granero, the 309.
Grange, Chat, de la 205.
Granges, Les 2S9. 308. 313.
Grangettes, Col des 366.
Granier, the 330.
— , Mont 297.
Granville, Trou de 87.
Graou, Col and Tele de
353.
Graoues, Cirque de 158.
Grasonet 287.
Grass e 450.
Grasse -Chevre, Col de
269.
Gratianopolis 320.
Grau de )a Franqui 1?2.
— du Roi, Le 40().
Graus d'Olette, Les 178.
(irave, La 336. 362.
— , Pic de la 3.50.
— , Pointe de 53.
Grave-d'Ambares, La 12.
Graveson 414.
Gravenne, the 394.
Gravenoire, Puy de 236.
(jravoine. La 183.
Gravone, the 405.
Grcffler, Col du 316.
Gregonio, Lac 161.
Grenade-s.-TAdour 59
Grenoble 320.
Greoul.x 420.
Gresivaudan Valley 329.
Gresourieres, Les 359.
Gre'sy-sur-Ai.v, 266.
I— sur-Isere 297.
Greve, La 28.
Grev, Chal. du 284.
Greian 389. 392.
Grezette 88.
Gria, La 271. 282.
— , Glac. de la 271.
Grignan 411.
Grigny 226.
Grillons, Les 371.
Grimaldi 459.
Griou, Puv 254.
Gripp 145. 149.
— , Case, de 145.
Grisolles 70.
Grivats, Les 203.
Grive, La 318.
Grivolee, La 331.
Groisy-le-Plot 267.
Gros, Puy 242. 254.
Gros-Hetre, Case, du 120.
Grosne, the 185.
Grospierres 394.
Gros-Villan, the 299.
Gruissan, Etan» de 172.
Grum, Pic de 122.
Grust 135.
Gua, Case, du 336.
Guagno, Bains de 464.
Guardia, Col de 460.
Guepie, La 94.
Gueret 226.
Guery, Lac de 245.
Guetiiarv 101.
Gueule d'Enfer 393.
Guibertes, Les 337.
Guier, the 295.
— Mort, Valley of the 325.
Guil, the 342.
~, Vallee du 368.
Guillestre 367.
Guisanp, the 337. 365.
Guitera i64.
Guitres 11.
Gii.jan-Mestras 57.
Gurnipnjon 116.
Guyenne 43.
Gyronde, the 343.
Habert de Malauiille .325.
— de Tenaison, 325.
— Valhombriie 325.
Haie-Fouassiere , La 23.
Ilaut, Chal. de 1' 293.
Haut-Brion 56.
Haut-du-Seuil, the 329.
Hautecoinbe, Abb. of 265.
Haute fort 38.
Haute-Garonne, Dep. of
the 71.
-- Loire, Dep. of the 248.
— Luce 298.
INDEX.
483
Hauterive fAllier) 203.
— (Causses) 385.
Hautes-Alpes, De'p. des
340.
)Iaute-Savoie, Uep. of
290.
Hautes-Pyvenees, Dep. of
112.
Haute-Vienne. Dep. de
la 35.
llauteville 261. 191.
Hautpoul, Chat, d' 380.
Haya. the 103.
Haye-De.scartes, La 3.
Heas 141.
— , Chap. & Val. de 140.
Helena 175.
Hendaye 102.
Henvieres, the 368.
Herault, the 381. 401.
— . Dep. de V 401.
Herbageres, Mont des 274.
Herbergement, L' 24.
Here'pian 379.
Heric, Gorge d' "SO.
Herm, Grotte de V 166.
Hermitage (.hill) 444.
llerpie, the 346.
Hery 294.
lleyrieu.x 318.
Hieres, Les 365.
Hirondelles, Col des 280.
His-Mane-Tonille 162.
Hi.x 178.
Holonnes 191.
Homniaize, 1/ 7.
Homme, Bee and Pic de
r 363.
-. Col de r 333.
— . Val. de 1' 159.
— Mort, Tuc de 1' 163.
Hontalade, Plat, de la
137.
Hopital, V 196. 298. 376.
- sous - Uochefort , L'
229.
Hort-Dieu, Signal de la
401.
Hospital, L' 176.
Hospitalet, L' 169.
Hdstens 56. 63.
Houerts. Col des 367.
Houle, Col de 134.
Hourat, le 121.
Hourque de Lauga 117.
— des 5 Ours ou Cours
144.
Hourquette, Pic 118.
— d'Araille 134.
Hourquette d'Ossoue 132.
134. ;
Hourtin 56.
-, Etang d' 56.
Huez 344.
Huismes 13.
Hume, La 57.
Huriel 225.
Huttes, Anse des 53.
Hyds 224.
Hveres 442.
— , lies d' 444.
— , Bade d' 444.
If. Cluit. d' 438.
Igueldo, Mont 104.
Ile-Barbe, L' 187. 223.
— Bouchard 14.
— d'Elle 24.
— de Se'chilienne 334.
lies, Les 287.
Uhuro 116.
Ule 176.
lUe'ou , Case. & Lac d'
130.
Illiberis 175.
lUiez, Val d" 272.
Incudine, Monte 464.
Indre, the 3. 13. 31.
— , Dep. of the 31.
Internet, the 335.
— , Col. de r 365.
— , Gorge de 1' 336.
Ingrandes-sur-Vienne 3.
Ingril, Etang d' 406.
Irignv 226.
Irun "103.
Iseran, Col du Mont 304.
Isere, the 297. 298. 30).
410.
— , Depart, of 319. 320.
— , Source of the 304.
— , Upper Valley of 298.
Iseve, Col d' 117.
Isle, the 11. 39.
— de-Noe 90.
— Jourdain 78.
— sur-Sorgues 425.
Isola Kossa 468.
Ispagnac 383.
Issoire 205.
Issoudun 31.
Istres 424.
Iteuil 7.
Itsatsou 63.
Izeste 119.
Izouard , Val., Ref. and
Col d' 344.
Jabel, Roche de 366.
Jabron, the 411.
.laca 118.
Jaillon 316.
.Taizquivel, the 103.
.Tala, the 324.
Jallieu 319.
Jandri, the 350.
Janneyrias 224.
.Tanus, Mons 344.
Jardin, the 277.
Jarjatte, the 339.
Jarnac 10.
Jarrie 337.
— , La 20.
Jaume 328.
Jausiers 341.
Javie, La 371.
Jean-Gauthier, Col 867.
Jeanne, Pointe 351.
Jeret, Val de 131.
Jeurre 190.
Joinville, Port 30.
-, Refuge 359. 366.
Joli, Col 298.
— , Mont 270.
.Jonas, Grottes de 243.
Joncels 379.
Joncet 178.
Jonchere, La (He-V.) 35.
Joncheres (Ardeche) 375.
Jonte, the 386.
Jonzac 28.
Jorasses, the 276. 280.
Jovdanne, the 254.
Jouan, Golfe 449.
— , Pic 176.
Joucou 172.
-, Defile 172.
Joue-les-Tours 12. 33.
Jouplane, Col de 269.
.Touvet, Mont 2S9.
— , Col and Lac du 300.
.Joux, La 287.
Jovet, Plan 283.
.Juan-les-Pins 446.
Juillan 112.
Juzet 154.
— , Case, de 1.54.
Kercabanac, Pont de 163.
Laas 90.
Lahach, Granges de 159.
Labarthe-Inard 114.
Labassa, Pic 133.
Labastide-Rouairoux381.
Labatut 105.
Labenne 60.
Laberou 117.
Labouheyre 58.
Labouret, Col de 371.
Labroquere 148.
Labruguiere 381.
Lac, Cirque du 388.
— . Glacier du 363.
Lacabarede 381.
Lacanau 56.
— . Etang de 56.
484
Lae Blanc 145. 311.
— Noir, Ref. du 350.
Lachamp-Condillac 411.
Lachat, Mont 282. 292.
Lacoii 367.
Laeour, Vallon tie 243.
Laeourt 163.
Lacourten.sort 70.
Lacq 106.
Lacroix, Col 369.
Lafarge 38.
Laffrev 3.38.
Lafou-x 392.
Lagrasse 82.
Laisonnay 305.
Lalbenque 70.
Lalinde 12.
Laluque 59.
Lamalgue, Fort de 442.
Lamalou-les-Bains 379.
Lamanon 426.
Lamonzie-St. Martin 12.
Lamothe 56. 58.
— Landeron 64.
Lance d'AUemont, Gran-
de 347.
Lancebranlette 286. 301.
Lances de Domenes, the
329.
Lancettes, Glac. des 283.
Lancey 329.
— , Combe de 329.
Lanchatra 351.
Lanjon 426.
Laneula, Eoeher and Col
de 357.
Landes, the (Loire-Inf.)
29.
— , Dep. of the 59.
— , district 56.
Landrv 301.
Lanfon, Dents de 294.
Langeac 375.
Langogne 375.
Langon (Guyenne) 64.
— , Le (Poitou) 24.
Languedoc 71
Lannemezan 114.
Lanoux, Lac 169.
Lans. Montagnes de 328.
Lans-le-Bourg 315.
Lans-le-Villard 316.
Lantosque 456.
Lanuejols 382.
Lanzo' 317.
Laoune, the 131.
Lapalisse 195.
Lapeyrouse 224.
Lapleaii-Maii.ssac 246.
liapurdiim 60.
Laquet, Col du 144.
Laqiieuille 240. 246.
Laragne 370.
INDEX.
Larceveau 105.
Larche 342.
— , Col de 342.
Largentiere 394.
Largnac 246.
Larne, the 381.
Laroque 89.
Larrau 105.
Lars, Pre's de 293.
Laruns 119.
Larzac, the 379. 401.
Lassur 168.
— , Chat, de 168.
Lateral a la Garonne.
Canal 72. 89.
Latour 379.
Latte de Bazen 121.
Laubies, Signal de 376.
Lauglanet 379.
Lauranoure, Tete de 351
Laurens 317.
Lauris 426.
Laus 344.
Lautaret, Le 362.
— , Col and Hosp. du
336.
— , Pic de Neige du 363
Lautrec 79.
Lauvitel, Lac de 348.
Lauze, Col de la 350. 363
— , Ret", de la 363.
Lauzes, Les 317.
Lauzet 376.
Lauzet, Le 337. 341.
Lauzon, Col and Tete de
340.
Laval-de-Tignes 303.
LavancLer 277. 287.
Lavandou, Le 446.
Lavaud-Franche 225.
Lavaur 70.
Lavaveix-les-Mines 226
Lavedan, Lac de 122.
Lavey, the 351.
-, Baths of 273.
— , Col and Glac. de la
352.
— , Ref. de la 349. 351.
Lavilledieu 68.
Lavoulte-sur-Rhone 390.
Lavoute-sur-Loire 248.
Lay, Grand 16.
Laye 341.
Layrac 89.
Laze, Som de 136.
Lcchaud, Col de 270.
Lectoure 89.
Le'denon 392.
Lege 151.
Leisse, the 295. 306.
— , Col de la 306. 310.
Lenian, Lac 263.
Lemercier, Pointe 351.
Leinpdes 253.
Lencloitre 14.
Lenta, Valley 304.
Lepin 295.
Lerins, Les de 449.
Lescar 106.
Lesehaux, Glacier de 276.
Lescun 117.
, Pont de 117.
Lescure 163.
Lesdigviieres, Chat, de
341.
Lesparre 53.
Lesponne 149.
— , Val. de 149.
Lespouev-Laslades 113.
Lestelle"llO.
Letrade 225.
Leucate 173.
Leuehi 286.
Levade, La 376.
Levalduc 424.
— , Etang de 424.
Levanna, the 318.
Levant, He du 444.
Levens 4.56.
Lexos 94.
Leynient 261. )
Levre, the 56.
Lei, the 162.
Lezan 395.
Le'zignan 82.
Lezoux 230.
Lheris, Col de 149.
— , Pene de 149.
Lhers, Vallee de 79.
Libourne 11.
Licharre 105.
Lieuran-Ribaute 381.
Lieusaoube, Rocher or
Tour de 141.
Ligena 64.
Lignan 86.
Lignare, the 335.
Lignat, Chat, de 224.
Llgne, Val. de la 394.
Lignon, the 229.
Ligre-Kiviere 14.
Liguge 7.
Limajon, the 126.
Limagne, the 204.
Liuienil 87.
Limoges 35.
Limonum 4.
Limousin, the 35.
Limoux 170.
Limpia 454.
Lioran, the 253.
— , Puy 254.
Lis, Val. du 157.
Lisle 41.
— d'Albi 96.
Li vet 335.
INDEX.
485
Livet, Gorge de 335.
Livron 411.
Llabane, the 180.
Llivia 178.
Lh) 178.
-, Col de 178.
Loches 33.
Lodeve 86.
Lognan, Pavil. de 280.
287.
Loire 390.
-, the 183. 196. 197. 229.
248.
— , Dep. de la 227.
Lombard, Col. Glacier,
and Kef. 365.
Lombarde, Vallon de la
317.
Lombrive, Grotte de 167.
Londe, La 446.
Londeniere, Col de 341.
Long, Lac 309.
— , Pic 140.
Longages 115.
Longel'oy 300.
Longet, Col de 342.
Longo Sardo 465.
Longvirv, the 190.
Loo, Chal. de 293.
Loranoure, Tete de 351.
Lordat 168.
— , Chat, de 168.
Lorette 227.
Loriol 411.
Lormont 12. 29.
Lorry, Pic de 118.
Lory, Pic 355.
Loson, Cabane de 348.
Lo.stange 381.
Lot, the 65. 70. 376. 378.
— , Dep. of the 88.
Lot-et-Oaronne, Dep. of
65.
Lothiers 34.
Loubans 184.
Loubaresse 377.
Loudervielle 148.
Loudmi 114.
Loviban.s 184.
Loup, the 447.
— . Col dii 352. 360.
Lourdes 110.
Loures 13. 51.
Louroux-de-Bouble 224.
Lo'Vitraz 312.
Louvie 119.
Lovagny 266.
Lovitel, Lac de 348.
— , Breche and Signal de
348.
Lozanne 197.
Lo/.ere, Dep. of the 382
— , Mont 375. 376.
Liiant 34.
Lubersac 91.
Luc (Lozere) 375.
Luc, Le & Le Cannet 445.
Luchon 151.
— , Hosp. de 169.
Lnjon 24.
Ludon 52.
Lugagnan 125.
Lugdunuui 212.
— Consoranorum 162.
— Convenarum 150.
Lugo 465.
Lugos 58.
Lugrin 272.
Lumio 468.
Lunas 379.
Lunel 401.
Lunel-Viel 401.
Luuery 210.
Lurbe 116.
Lurde, Col de 122.
Luri 468.
Lvirs 426.
Lusignan 18.
Lus-la -Croix -Haute 339.
Ln.ssae-le.s-Chateau.\ 7.
Luteva 86.
Lutour, Valley of 133.
Luxe 8.
Luye, the 340.
Luynes 429.
Luz 135.
— , Gorge de 135.
Luzech 88.
Luzenac 168.
Lyons 210.
Botanical Garden 223.
Cathedral 215.
Chap, of N.-D. de
Fourviere 214.
Church of Ainay 213.
— of the H6t.-D. 222.
— of N.-D. de Four-
viere 214.
— of the Redemption
223.
— St. Bonaventura222
— St. Jean 215.
— St. Nizier 216.
— St. Pierre 221.
— St. Pothinus 223.
Cours du Midi 213.
Ecole de Medecine222
Exchange 221.
Ficelle of Fourv. 214
— of la Croix-R. 221.
Font, des Celest. 216.
— des .Tacob. 216.
— des Terreaiix 217.
— St. .lean 215.
Fourviere, Notre-
Danie de 214.
LYONS .
Galerie Chenav. 219.
— des Lyon. 218.
Gallery of paintings
218.
— of sculpture 217.
Grand-Seminaire 215.
Hospice de la Charite
214.
Hotel-Dieu 222.
— de ViUe 216.
Jardin des Plantes (for-
mer) 221.
I>ibrary , Municipal 222.
— of the Palais des
Arts 221.
Loyasse, Cemetery 215.
Lycee 222.
Mane'canterie 216.
Marbres, collection of
217.
Monuments 213. 222.
223.
Musee Bernard 219.
— of Art and Industry
222.
— of the Propagation
de la Foi 214.
— Lapidaire 217.
Musees 217.
Museum of Antiq. 220.
— Nat. Hist. 221.
Observatory 210.
Palais de Justice 216.
— de la Bourse 221.
— des Arts or
— St. Pierre 217.
Pare de la Tete-d'Or
223.
Passage du Rosaire
215.-
Place Bellecour 213.
— de la Comedie 221.
— de la Republ. 222.
— des Jacobins 216.
— des Terreau.x 217.
— Morand 222.
— Perrache 213.
— St. Jean 215.
— Sathonay 221.
Railway Stations 210.
Quarter of La Croix
Rousse 213. 221.
— La Guillotiere 213.
222.
— Les Brotteaux 213.
223.
— Perrache 213.
— Vaise 213.
Hue de la Republ. 214.
221.
— de rHot.-de-Ville
214. 216.
486
LYONS:
Statue of Ampere, 213.
— of Louis XIV. 213.
— of Jacquart 221.
— of Marshal Sucliet
222.
Theatre, Grand 221.
— Bellecour 222.
— des Celestins 216.
Zoological Garden 223.
Lyonnais, the 212.
Lyon-Gorge-du-Loup223.
Lyon-Vaise 187.
Lys, Cirque (feVal. du 157.
Macau 52.
Machecoul 29.
Macon 18.5.
Macot 300.
Madame 170.
Madasse, Cirque de 387.
Madeleine, La 337.
— , Col de la 299.
— , Mont, de la 195.
Madone de Fenestre 456.
Magalas 381.
Magdelaine, La 316.
Magistere, La 67.
Magland 270.
Magnabaigt, Plateau de
m.
— , Val. de 124.
Magnac-Touvre 10.
Magnan, the 453.
— , Valley of the 455.
Magnette 210.
Magnin, Forest of 274.
Maguelonne 406.
Mahomet, Pont de 161.
Maine, the 24.
Maison (Aude) 82.
Maison-du-Roi, La 368.
iMaladetta, Pic de la 161.
Malamille, Habert de 325.
Malaueene 413.
Malause 67.
Slalaval , Combe de 336.
Malavaux, Les 203.
Malciaussia, Valley 317.
Malene, La 385.
Malibierne, Val. de 161.
Malijai 371.
Malj'asset 342.
Mallerouge, Col and Pic
de 1.34.
Mallet, Mont 277. '
Malmont, the 445.
Mal-Passet, Le 304.
Malpertus, Roc de 376.
Mamelles, Les 368.
Mandette, La 365.
Mandirac 172.
Manduel-Redessan 389. I
INDEX.
Manganella, Col de 466
Manosque 426.
Manse, Col de 341.
Mapas 288.
Marais, the 2'l.
Marans 24.
Maraussan 86.
Marbore,Pie andCylindre
du 139. 140.
Marc 167.
Mareadaou, Port de 125.
133.
— , Val. de 132.
Marcadieu 113. 145
Marcellaz-Hauteville 266.
Marcenais 11.
March e 226.
Marcheprime 56.
Marehets, Les 308.
Mareigny 183.
Marcillac 97.
Marcilly-le-Pave 229.
Marcorignan 83.
Marennes 26.
Margaux 52.
Marguerite , Mont de la
377.
Marguerittes 392.
Marialles, Serrat de 177
Mariana 467.
Mariande,Casc. de la 349.
— , Col, Combe & Glacier
de la 351.
Marie, Pont de 271.
Marieblanque,Col de 116.
Marignac-St. Beat 151.
Marignane 425.
Marignier 268.
Marlieux 189.
Marlioz 265.
Marmagne 206.
Marmande 64.
-, the 210.
Marouillet, Le 25.
Marquixanes 176.
Marrons 341.
iMars 192.
Mars a 172.
Marsac (Creuze) 226.
— (Tarn) 95.
Marsan 79.
Marsare, Tete de 353.
Uarseilles 430.
Alices de Meilhan 435.
— des Capucins 435.
Anse de laRcserve 432.
— des Catalans 435.
Arc de Triouiphe 433.
Archseological Museum
Hath. Estab. 435.
Boul. de Longehamp
435.
MARSEILLES :
Boul. Dugommier 435.
— du Musee 435.
— du Nord 435.
Bourse 432.
Cannebiere 432.
Cathedral 433.
Chateau Borelv 437.
— d'Eau 436.
— d'lf 438.
— du Pharo 435.
— Talabot 4.38.
Church of N. -D.-de-
la-Garde 434.
— St. Victor 435.
— St. Vinc.-de-P. 435.
Corniehe Road 435.
Cours Belzunce 434.
— du Chapitre 438.
— P.-Puget 434.
— St. Louis 434.
Docks of La Joliette
433.
Exchange 4.32.
Faculty of Science 435.
Fort St. Jean 4.32.
— St. Nicolas 432.
Harbour 432. 433.
Hotel de Ville 432.
If, Chateau d' 438.
Joliette, La 433.
Library, Public 435.
Lyce'e 435.
Muse'e des Beaux-Arts
436.
Nat. History Museum
437.
Notre-Dame-de-la-
Garde 434.
Old Town 432.
Palais de Justice 4.34.
— de Longehamp 4'{5.
Pare Borely 437.
Port 432.
— de Frioul 438.
Prado 437.
Prefecture 434.
Promen. de la CoUine
or P.-Puget 434.
Public Garden 437.
Quarantine Office 433.
Race-Course 438.
Railway Stations 430.
Rue Cannebiere 432.
— de la Republ. 432.
— Noailles 4^2.
Sanle, La 433.
Stat, of Berryer 434.
— de Belzunce 4.34.
Zoological Garden 437.
Marsillargues 423.
Marsous 122.
Marthon 10.
INDEX.
487
Martignare, Col de 364
Martignat 190.
Martigny 273.
— Bourg 273.
Martigiies 425.
Martin. Cape 459.
Martin-Jean, Pic de 342.
Martinet 39o.
Mar«res-de-Riviere 114.
— de-Veyres 205.
— Tolosane 115.
Marvejols 377. 381.
Marv, Puv 254.
Mas". Le 316.
— . Roche du 163.
Mas-d'Azil 163.
— de-la-Font 386.
— de-la-6rave, Pie du
365.
— de-Ponge 395.
— des-Gardies 395.
— Stes. Puelles 79.
Massanne , Foret de la
175.
Massat 163.
Massf, the 89.
Massebiau 389.
Massiac 2.53.
Ma.<:silia 431.
Ma.?silly 1&5.
.Mataras, Case, de 141
Matisco 185.
JIauberme. Pie de 163.
Maabert 387.
Mauleon 105.
Maulmont 203.
Maumusson, Straits of 26.
Maupa.s, Pic de 158.
Jiauran 115.
Jlaures, Chaine des 444.
Maiirettes, the 442.
Mauriac 246.
Jlaurienne, the 312.
.Maurin 342. 367. 368.
Maiirs 255.
Maussane 423.
Mauvais Pas, the 277.
Mauves (Ardeche) 390.
Mauzac 12.
Mauze 20.
Mauzun, Chat, de 231
Maye, Tete de la 352.
Maylin 156.
Mayregne 156.
Mazamet 381.
Mazel, Le 383.
Mazeres-sur-Salat 162.
Mazes-les-Cres, Les 401.
Mazet, Le 376.
Mazieres, Chat, de 34.
— s\ir-Beronne 20.
Mean -Martin. Glac. de
,^7.
Meane, Roche 363.
Medassoles 155.
Mediabat, Pont de 126.
Medoc, the 52.
Me'dous 149.
Mees, Les 426.
Me'geve 294.
Megronnes 342.
Mehun-sur-Yevre 206.
Meidassa 369.
Meije, the 353. 354.
— , Breehe de la 364.
Meillan 210.
Meillerie 272.
Meironnes 342.
Me jean, Causse 383.
Mejannes-Mons 395.
Melezet 313.
Melle 20.
Melze'ard, Tour de 20.
Mende 382.
Causse de 382.
Mennetou-sur-Cher 231.
Mens 339.
Menthiere, Plat, de 262
Jlenthon 291.
Mentone 458.
-, Val. of 459.
Meolans 341.
Mer de Glace, the 276.
d'Argentiere 287.
Mercues 88.
Mercus 166.
Merdaret, the 329.
Merdogne, Chat, de 253.
Merens 169.
Merial 172.
Merindol 426.
Meritzell, Chapel 169.
Merlet, Col de 3:33.
Mers 33.
Meursault 183.
Meiiinieux 261.
Meva, Pic 131.
Meyuiac 38. 246.
Meyrargues 427.
Mevrueis 387.
Mevs 224.
Meyze, La 91.
Jlevzieux 224.
Meie 86.
Mezenc, the 252.
Ble'zeriat 188.
Mezilhac 390.
Mezos .59.
Miage, Glac de 281.
-, Col de 280.
MieUot, Case. 156.
Midaou, Ravin du 143.
Midi, Aig. du (Hte-Sav.)
271. 272. 277. 279.
— (Isere) 301.
, Col du 279.
Midon 199.
Midouze, the 59.
Mielan 90.
MigBaloux-Nouaille 7.
Milieu, Pie du 161.
Millas 176.
— , Plan de 134.
Millau 378.
Millersol, Chal. de 336.
Milles, Les 425.
Milliere, Cirque de la388.
Milly 195.
Mimbaste 60.
Mimizan 58.
Mine, Pic de la 159.
Miolans, Castle 297. 312.
Miouze-Roehefort,La240.
Mirabal, Chat, de 163.
Mirabeau 427.
— , Salon de 244.
Miramas 424.
Mirande 90.
Mirebeau 14.
Miremont (Dordog.) 87.
— , Grotto of 87.
— (Hte-Garonne) 164.
Miribel 261.
Mison 370.
Misson-Habas 60.
Modane 313.
Moine, the 23.
-, Aig. du 277.
Moines, Col and Pic des
118.
Moirans 319.
Moissac 67.
Jlola, La 278.
Molard de Don, the 261.
Molaret 316.
Mole, the 268.
Molieres 379.
sur-Ceze 394-
Molinges 190.
Molitg 177.
Molonipise 253.
Moniie, Grotte de la ^85.
Monaco 457.
Monastier, Le (Haute-
Loire) 252.
— (Lozere) 378.
Moncade, Tour de 105.
Moncontour 14.
Moneoutant 16.
Monerabeau 65.
Slondarrain, Pic 63-
Mondragon 391. 412.
Monedieres, the 247.
Monestier - de - Clermont
339.
Monetier - de - Hriancon
337. 366.
— , Glacier de 366.
Monistrol, Chat- de 248.
488
INDEX.
Monistrol d'AUier 375.
Monna, Le 389.
Monne de Bagneres 148.
— de Luchon 156.
— , Soum de 130.
>Ionnetier - Mornex 267.
268.
Mons Albanus 68.
— Janxis 344.
— Seleuei 370.
Jlonsegu, Pic de 156.
Monsembron-Libns 88.
Mont, Col du 301.
>Ionta, La 369. 325.
3Iont-Agel 457.
JIontagnac-St.-Hippolvte
■ 246.
Montagne, La 340.
— Koire 381.
— Verte 203.
ilontagnes Abimees 333.
Montagnole, Col de 366.
Jlontaigu, Pic de 148.
— Vendee 24.
Mont-Aiguille 339.
MontaJgut 226.
Montailleur 297.
Montalban, Fort 455.
Montalet, Chat, de 394.
Montalieu 261.
Montane, the 246.
Montanvert, the 276.
Montarque, Tuc de 156.
Moiitauban (Tarn-et-
Oar.), 68.
— (Hte-Gar.) 154.
— , Case de 154.
-^ Ville-Xouvelle 94.
Monlaud, Pic de 381.
Montaut-Betharram 110.
Montbartler 70.
Montba/in 381. 86.
Moutbazon .33.
Montbeas, the 164.
Mont-Binet 116.
Mont Blanc 280.
. Pavil. du 286.
du Tacul 279. 281.
, Petit 308.
, Rocher du 281.
Montboron 455.
Mont-Brequin 313.
Mont-Briancon 25:!.
Montbrison*229. 224.
— , Pic de 343.
Mi>ntbrul 390.
Montbr\in .384.
Montcalm, the 167.
Montceau-les-Mines 183.
Mont-Ceindi-e 223.
— Cenis, Hosp. du 314.
Road 314.
— — Tunnel 313.
Montchaboud, Signal de
331-
Montchal, Puy de 243.
Montchanin 183.
Mont -Chauve d'Aspre-
mont 455.
— Collerin 317.
— Cornadore 246.
— Dauphin-Guillestre
342.
— de'-Lans, 348.
, Glac. de 350. 363.
— de Marsau 59.
— de Saxe 286.
— d'Or, the 223.
— Dore, Le 241.
— Dove 252.
Monte-Calvo 455.
— Carlo 457.
Montees, Les 271.
Monteignet - EscuroUes
204.
Monteils 94.
Moutelimar 411.
Montendre 29.
Montenvert, the 276.
Monte-Pietro 466.
Montespan, Chat, de 114.
Montesquieu, Rocher de
385.
Montessuy 224.
Montestruc 89.
Montets, Col des 288.
Monteux 418.
Montfavet 425.
Montferrand (Puy-de-D.)
205. 231.
— (Gironde) 54.
Montferrat 132. 140.
Montfleury, Convent of
325.
Mont-Froid 315.
Montgaillard 145.
Montgarin 332.
Mont-Genevre 344.
Moutgilbert, Fort 313.
Mont-Granier 297.
Mont-Gros 455
Monthey 272.
Mont-Houx 223.
Monti 459.
Montils-Colombier 28.
Mont-Iseran, Col du 304
Montjoie, Val. de 270
282.
Mont-Joli 270. 283. 294,
— Jon vet 299.
— Lachat 282.
— Laid 122.
Montlaur 79.
Montlouis 178.
Mont-Lo/ere 376.
Blontlujon 22.5.
Montluel 261.
Mont-Major 423.
— Mallet 277.
Montmarault 195.
Mont-Maudit 281.
Montmaur 340.
Montmelian 297. 330
Montmin 293.
Mnutniirat, Col de 383
Moutnioreau 11.
Montmorillon 7.
Montne, the 156.
Monton, Puy de 205.
Montoncel, Puy de 230.
Montpaon 379.
Montpellier 401.
— le-Vieux 388.
Mont-Pelvoux 360.
Montperche, Fort 297.
Mont -Perdu 140.
, Etang du 14'i.
Montpeyroux 205.
Montpezat 70. 114.
— sous-Bauzon 393.
Mont-Pilat 228.
— Pourri 301.
Montpont 41.
Montrabe' 97.
Mont Rachais 324.
Montreal 190.
Montre.jeau 114 148.
Montremont, Vallev 293.
Montrevel 184.
Montrichard .31.
Montricoux 94.
Montrodeix, Chat. 237.
Mont-Rognon,Puv du 2.39.
Montrond 197. 210. 224.
— , Chat, de 210.
Montrottier, Chat. de266.
Mont-Ruan 269. 272.
Monts (Indre-et-Loire) 3.
— Maudits, the 161.
Monl-St. Guillaume 342.
— Thabor 313. 367.
— Thuria 301.
— Tondu, Ctil du 2,83.
Montvalent 92.
Montvallier, Pic de 16.3.
Mont-Ventoux 419. 43.
— Verdun 223.
— Viso 369.
Morcenx 58.
Morel 307.
Moretel 332.
Morge, the 272.
Morgon, the 342.
Morieres 425.
Morna.s 412.
Morn ex 267.
Morosaglia 466.
Mortagne-sur-Sevre 23.
Morte, La 335.
INDEX.
489
Mortola 459.
Murzine 269.
Mcsnac-St. Genis 28.
Mosson. the 406.
Mossons. Les 278.
Mostue'joux 3S6.
Mothe-Achard, La 17.
~ St. Heraye, La 18.
Motte. ChaL de la 311.
—, Lac de la 333.
Motte-Beuvron, La 30.
— d'Aveillans. La 338.
— Feuilly, Ch.it. dela33.
— les-Bains, La 337.
Mottets, Les 284.
Moucherolle, the 328.
Moueherotte, the 327.
M.iiiilles, Les 287.
Miiulegre. the 255.
M.Milieres, Pic 161.
Mdulin-a-vent 187.
Moiilins-s.-AUier 192.
M.uilis (Ariege) 162.
— (GirondeJ 53.
Jloulleau 58.
Mounjoyo, Pas de 160.
Moureze 86
Mouries 423
Mouriscot, Lake of 101.
Minissac (Charente) 8.
Moussais-la-Bataille 3.
Mouste, Pic de 117.
Moustiers-Ste. Marie 427.
Mouthiers 11
Miiiitiers - en - Tarentaise
299.
M.iux (Aude) 82.
Miiande. 61ae. and Col
de la 352,
Mulatiere, La 226
Nancy-sur-Cluses 270.
I Nam 379.
,— Blanc 279
— Borrant, Chal.de 283.
— Bride 272.
I— de la Gria 282.
|— des Pelerins 279.
— Noir 274.
JNantais. Roe 379.
Nantes 23.
Nantet, Col du 293.
— , Chal. du 293.
Xantillons, Glacier des
277.
Nants, Chal. and Ref des
311.
Nantua 191.
— , Lac de 190.
Napole'on, Pont 137.
Napoleon-Vendee 16.
Napoule, La 450.
— , Golfe de la 449.
Narbo 82.
Narbonne 82.
Narrevrons , Grange de
359 "
Nartelle, La 446.
Nartubie, the 445.
Naussac 93.
Naves 292.
Navettes. Combe des 341.
Nav 110.
Neijbii) 468
Negre, Val 389.
Negrepelisse 94.
Ne'grondes 38.
Xeige-Cordier,Pic de 362.
Neniausus 395.
INemetum 231.
Neouvieille ou
Millets. Col des (Pyr.) 132 Neouvielle, Pic de 145.
— . Gr. and Pet. (Mont- Nerac 65
Blanc) 281.
Jlulinet, the 318.
Munia. Pic de la 141.
.Mural-le-Quaire 240.
Miirat 253.
. Chat, de 194
Mur de la Cote 280.
Mure, La 338.
.biuret 115.
Miiro. Cap de 462.
Miirols 245.
Massidan 41.
.Muv. Le 445,
M.iielle, Col de la 348.
— . Lac de la 348.
- . Roche de la 3>1.
Pic de
Nere ou Nere ,
137. 143.
Neris 225.
Ners 395.
Nersac 9
Nerte, Tunnel de la 425.
Nesmy 24
Nethou. Pic de 161.
Nets, Pic de 130.
Neussarsues 253.
JNeuva. Glac. de la 280.
Neuvic 41.
Neuville-de-Poitou 146.
— sur-Saone 187. 224.
Neuvv-Paillou.x 31.
'Nevache 367.
jNevers 192
Ne.xon 38. 91
Nabrigas. Grotte de 387. Neyrac 393.
Najac 94. iNey/.ets. Rochers des 367.
Nalliers 24. Niau.\ 166.
Nice 450.
Nice-Riquier 447.
Nicole 65.
Nid-de-la-Poule, the 239.
Nieigles-Prades 393.
Nieras, Roch. de las 122.
Nieuil-TEspoir 7.
Nika-a 453.
NInies 395.
Niort (Deu.x-Sevres) 18.
— (Pyren.) 172.
— , Defile of 172.
Niort and La Rochelle
I Canal 24.
Nissan 84.
Nive, the 60. 101.
Nivelle, the 102.
Niversac 87. 91.
Nivolet, Dent du 2137.
Nizan 64.
Nizas 381.
Nizza 450.
Noalhat 204.
Nogaro 65.
Nohant 33.
Noir, Causse 387.
-, Glacier 358. 361.
— , Lac (Dauphine') 350.
— — (Isere) 333.
(Pyr.) 145.
Noire, Slontagne 381.
Noiretable 230.
Noirlac, Abbey of 210.
Noicmoutiers 29.
— , lie de 29.
Noirterre 16.
Nolhac 252.
Nontron 10.
Nord, Pic (Grandes Rous-
ses) 346. ^
Nord des Tetes du Crou-
zet, Pointe 351.
Nore, Pic de 381.
Notre - Dame - de - Brian-
con 299.
— de-Capimont 380.
— de-Casalibus 32(i.
— de-Cliarmaix 313.
— de-Commiers 337.
— de-Consolation 175.
— de-Delivrance 315.
— de-la-Garde 442.
— de-la-Gorge 283. _
— de-la-Guerison 2&'3.
— de-la-Salette 338.
— de-rOsier 328.
— de-Marceille 170.
— .le-Hhemes 303.
— des-Anges 445.
— des-Neiges 343.
— de-Vaulx 338.
Nouan-le-Kuzelier 30.
Nouve, Defile of the 330.
490
INDEX.
Nouvelle, La 82. 172.
Noves 419.
Noviomagus 53.
Noyant 194
Nozieres 383. 393.
Nuces 97.
Nuits-sous-Beaune 182.
Nurieux 190.
Nvon 412.
Obiou, the 338.
Objat 91.
Oblincum 7.
Oiihe, Hosp. de V 386.
Oeillette, the 325.
Ogeu 116.
Oignin, the 190.
Oiron 15.
Oisans 335.
Oiseaux, lie des 58.
— , Monts des 442.
Olan, Aig. & Pie rt' 352.
— , Col d' 352.
Olargues 380.
Ole'rou, He d' 26. 23.
Olette 178.
— , Graus d' 178.
Olivier, Etang de 1' 424.
Olle, Combe d' 335. 33.3.
Ollioules-St. Nazaire 430,
Olonne 17.
Oloron 116.
— , Gave d' 105. 116.
Omessa 466.
Oncet, Lac d' 144. 149.
Onde, the 359.
One, the 153.
Onglous, Les 86.
Oo and its lake 155.
— , Port d' 1.55.
— , Portillon d' 156.
Opillous, Pie d' 359.
Opmes, Gorge d' 239.
i)r, lies d' 444.
Orange 412.
Orb, thp &5. 86. 379.
Orcival 240.
Oreo, the 304.
Ordineede, Cab. d' 149.
Ordizan 145.
Orezza 467.
Orgon 419.
— , Plan d' 419. 420.
Orgueil 88.
OrstiiUo. Mont 104.
Orii-ae, the 166.
Orleans 30. 206.
Ormelune, the 301.
Ormes, I,es 3.
Orny, Cabane , Combe,
and Glacier d' 480.
Oro, Mont d' 465.
Orredon, Lac d' 145.
Orrhy, Pie d' 105.
Orsan-Chuselan 391.
Orthevielle 105.
Orthez 105.
Ortholas 90.
Ossau, Gave & Val. d'
119. 123.
Ossoue, Glac. d' 132. 140.
— , Oulettes d' 140.
-, Val. d' 140.
Ossun 112.
Ostrea 424.
Ostrieoni, the 468.
Ouches, Les 279. 270. 282.
Oueil, Val. d' 1.56.
Ougiers, Les 348.
Ouillarse, the 316.
Ouille de Gauhe 132.
— de Trieves 318.
— du Midi 316.
— Noire 317.
Oule, Chal. de 1' 333.
Oules, Font, des 344.
Oulettes, Col. des 132.
— d'Ossoue 134.
— du Vignemale 132.
— , Pas des 134.
OuUes 335.
Oullins 226.
Oulx 313. 344.
Ours, Mont, de T 351.
— , Col de r 351.
Oursiere, Waterfall 331.
Oust 163.
Ouve.ze, the 390. 413. 414.
Oyonnaz 190.
Oz 335. 345.
Ozon-Lanespede 113.
Paeaudiere, La 196.
Paillole 1.50.
Paillon, the 453.
Pain-de-Sucre, the 368.
Paiolive, Bois de 394.
Pair, Lae 363.
Paladru 319.
Lac de 319.
Paladus 230.
Palairae 82.
Palalda 179.
Palas, Pic de la 125.
Palasca 468.
Palau-del-Vidre 175.
Palavas 406.
Pales de Burat 158.
Palesieux 286.
Palet, Col du 305. 300.
Palheres 376.
Palies, Ravine of Les387.
Palinges 183.
Palisse, La 195.
Pallet, Le 23.
Pallons 343.
Palluau-St. Genou 33.
Palme, Etang de la 172.
— , He de la 186.
Palu, Tete de la 456.
Palud, La 412.
Pambassibe, the 121.
Pamiers 165.
Pamprou.x 18.
Panchot 97.
Panissiere 333.
Pantieosa 125.
Paoul, Col de 162.
Para, La 279.
Paradis, Monts du 442.
Paradou, the 423.
Parata, Punta della 462.
— , Torre della 464.
Paray-le-Monial 194. 183.
Parempuyre 52.
Parentis, Etang de 57.
Pariou, Puy de 235.
Paris, Plateau de 3G2.
Pariset 327.
Parisien, Case, du 159.
Parmelan 292.
Parnae 88.
Paroird, Lac du 342.
Parpaillon, the 341.
Parrachee, Dent 311.
Parsae 225.
Part, Pie de la 365.
Parthenay 15. 6.
Partie, Lae de la 315.
Pas de I'Arc 386.
— de Roland 63.
— de Soucv 386.
— du Chat" 147.
Pasages 103.
Pas-de-.Teu 15.
Pas-des-Laneiers 425.
Passable, Bav of 447.
Passin 224.
Pan 106.
— , Gave de 60. 105. 107.
Pauillae 53. 54.
Paul, Col de 162.
Paulhae, Chat, de 205.
Paulhaguet 205. 253.
Paulhan 85. 381.
Pauline, La 444.
Paulois, Chat, de 26.
Paute, La 335.
Pave, the 354.
— , Col du 356.
Pavin, Lac 243.
Paziols S3.
Pazzolo, Lago di 465.
Pe'age, Le 334.
— de-Rous.'iillon 409.
Pech de Bugarach 171.
Peeher, Source of the
382.
INDEX.
491
Peelet, Aig. de 311.
Pe'droux, Pics 169.
Pegomas 450.
Peguere, the 131.
Peipin 371.
Peisev 301. 305.
Pelerins, Glac. des 279.
— , Xant de.s 279.
Pelissier, Pont 271.
Pellafol 338.
Pellas, Vallev of 339.
Pelouse, Pointe 269.
Pelussin 390.
Pelvas, Tete de 368.
Pelvoux Range 344.
— , Mont 360.
Peua-Blanea 159.
Peua-CoUarada 118.
Pe'neme'daa, the 121.
Pene-Nere 135.
Penne (Tarn) 94.
-, La 438.
— d'Agenais 89.
Perat, Le 10.
Perche, Col de la 178.
Perdigat, Chateau 87.
Perdighero, Pic 156.
Perdri.x, Crest de la 228.
Perdu, Col 344.
— , Mont 140.
Perigord, County 39.
Perigueu.x 39.
Per.juret, Col de 382.
Perpignan 173.
Perralotaz, Pont de 271.
Perriere, the 190. 307.
Perrignier 271.
Perron des Encombres
313.
Perte du Rhone 262.
Perthus, Col du 179.
Pertuis 426.
— Breton 24.
Pertuiset, Le 248.
Pesquiers, Etang des 444.
Pessac 56.
Peteret, Aig. Blanche de
285.
Petit-Bornand 295.
— Buech, the 340.
— Charnier 333.
— Clausis, the 341.
Petite-Lance, the 329.
— Voudene 335.
Petites-Rousses, the 346-
Pftit-Galibier 365.
— Infernet , Col du 331.
— Marchet 308.
, Chal. du 309.
— Mont-Blanc 308.
— Mont-Viso 369.
— Pelvoux 360.
— Plateau, the 281.
Petit St. Bernard 286.
— Saleve 268.
PetitsGoulets 328.
— Mulets 281.
Petit-Suchet, Puvdu239.
— Tabue, Val. du 366.
Pexiora 79.
Peychagnard 338.
Peyrade, La 141.
Peyraoule, Cab. de 134.
Pevraoute, Mont de 129.
Pevraud 199. 390.
Pevre 379.
— ,"La 148.
— , Col de la 168.
Peyreblanque, Col de 163.
Peyreget, Pic de 124.
Peyrelade, Rocher and
Ruines de 386.
Peyreleau 386,
Peyrehorade 105.
Peyresourde, Col de 1.50.
Peyron, Clapier dvi 348.
Peyrou d'Amont 363.
— d'Aval 363.
Peyruis 426.
Pezenas 85.
Pezens 79.
Pharon, the 442.
Piagu, Tete de 456.
Plan del Re 370.
Pibrac 78.
Picade, Port de la 159.
Pic de Neige Cordier
362.
• — du Lautaret 363.
Pic du Midi de Bagneres
or de Bigorre 144. 149.
d'Ossau 124.
Pied-du-Col 363.
Piedicroce 466.
Pierre 184.
a-Be'ranger 277.
a-Berard 270. 280.
— a I'Echelle 279.
Chatel, Fort de 266.
Grosse, Chal. de 316.
317.
— Joseph, Col de 280.
■ Lis, Defile 171.
■ Pointue, Pavil. de la
279.
Pierrefitte-Nestalas 125.
Pierrelatte 412.
Pierre-Lis, Defile of 171.
— sur-Haute 197.
Pierroton 56.
Pierroux, Glac. de 351.
Pigeol, Cab. de 167.
Pignan.'i 445.
Pietat, Chap, de 126.
Pilat, Jlont 228.
Pilate, Echelles de 148.
Pilatte, Glac. de la 358.
357. 353.
— , Col de la 358.
Pime'ne, the 140.
— , Col de 140.
Pin, Alpe du 351.
Pine'a, the 326.
Pinget, Chal. de 268.
Pinsaguel 164.
Pins-Justaret 164.
Pinsot 333.
Piolenc 412.
Piijuade, Port de la 1-59.
Pique, Pic de la 159.
Pique-Longue, the 132.
Pirraz, La 293.
Piscennse 85.
Pise, La 376.
Pisse, Waterfall 336.
— , Vallon de la 348. 351.
Pissevache, Case, de 273.
191.
Pla-de-la-Goule 133.
Placette, La 325.
Plage, La 444.
Plagne, La 305.
— , Lac de la 301.
Plagnes, Col des 333.
Plaine, Lac 262.
Plaisance 386.
Plan, Aig. du 277. 279-
Planards, Les 276.
Planay, Le 306. 308.
Plancoulour 311.
Plan de TAiguille 279.
— del-Ramie 388.
— des-Dames 284.
— du-Lac 348.
— du-Roi 370.
— du-Seye 346.
Planes, Les 311.
Planes 178.
Planiol , Rocher du 385.
Plan-.Tovet 283.
Nachat 278.
Praz 269.
Plaret, the 353.
— , Glac. du 353.
Plassas, Rocher de 309.
Plat, Aig. du 351.
— , Glacier du 350.
Plat-a-Barbe, Case, du
244.
de la Selle 351.
Plate, De'sert and Escal.
de 269.
Plate - des- Agneaux, Col
de la 362. 364.
— , Glac. de la 356. 362.
364.
Plessis, Chat, de 34.
Plomb du Cantal 232.
Po, Sources of the 369.
492
INDEX.
Podensac 64.
Podium 248.
Poey 106.
Pointe Pelouse 269.
— Pereee 2;0. 295.
Poitiers 3.
Poitoii, the 3.
Polienas 328.
Polignac 252.
PoUestres 179.
PoUiat 188.
Polminhae 254.
Polset 312.
-, Aig. de 311.
Pomaray 325.
Pomas 170.
Pombie, Col de 124.
Pomegue 435.
Pommard 183.
Pomme, La 438.
Pompadour 91.
Pomponiana 444.
Ponent , Riviere du 455.
Pons 28.
Pontaillac 55.
Pontaix 411.
Pontanevaux 187.
Pontcharra-sur-Breda
330
— St. Foreeu.Y 197.
Pont-d'Ain 189.
— d'Arc 3'J4.
— d'Avignon 392.
— de-Beauvoisin 295.
— de-Hens 332.
— de-Ceret 179.
— de-Chabestan 370.
— de-Cheruv-Tignieu224
— de-Claix"334. 337.
— de-Dore 230.
— de-GouIe-Xoire 328.
— de-Gueidan 372.
■:- de-la-Bidouze 105.
— de-l'Arran 105.
— de la Tannerie 325.
— de-Leseun 117.
— de-Lignon 248.
— de-Livron 411.
— de-Marc 167.
— de-Montvert 376. 383.
— de-Tarassac 380.
— di-Tiinozza 466.
— dp-Vaux-Fleuriville
185.
— de-Veyle 188.
— dHerauU 401.
— du-Casse 89.
— du-Cliateau 231.
— du Diable 332. 349
380. 393.
— du-Oard 392.
— du-Lison 190.
— en-Uoyans 328.
Ponte alia Leeeia 466.
Pontenuovo 467.
Pontet (Hte-Savoie3 283.
-, Le 414.
Pont Flavien 424.
Pontgibaud 240.
Pontis, Ravin de 143.
Pontmort 204.
Pont Pelissier, the 271.
— Rousseau 29.
— St. Antoine 342.
— St. Bruno 325.
— St. Clair 292.
— St. Esprit 391.
— St. Guillerme 335.
347.
— St. Pierre 325.
— Salomon 198.
— Serrant 286.
Fonts, Les 277.
PorqueroUes, lie de 444.
Port, Le 163.
Porta 169.
Portalet, Le 117.
Port-Bou 176.
— Boulet 14.
Portcros, He de 444.
Port-de-Bouc 424.
— de-Piles 3.
— de-Venasque 159. 161,
— d'Oo 155.
— du-Frioul 438.
Porte, Col de 326.
Porte de France 325.
— de TEnclos 326.
Porte 169.
Port el 82.
Portes 411.
— , Col des 344.
Portets 64.
Portet-St. Simon 115. 164.
Portetta, Dent 309. 308.
Portette, Col de la 347.
Portillon, Lac du 156.
Porto Vecchio 468.
Port-Puer 265.
— Ste. Marie 65.
— St. Pere 29.
Portus Syracusanorum
468.
— Veneris 175.
Port-Vendres 175.
Posets. Pic 162.
Posterplle 338.
Poueytrenons, Val. de
133".
Pougnadoires, Les 385.
Pouilly-sous-Cliarlieu
183.
Poujastou, the 158.
Poujol, Le 380.
Poujols 384.
Poule, Nid de la 239.
Poumero, Pic 161.
Pounchet, Grotte du 166.
Pourcieux 429.
Pournel 93.
Pourri, Mont 301.
Pourrieres 429.
Pourtalet, Col du 125.
Pourtere, Escal.de la 132.
Poutran, Chal. de 346.
Pouy 59.
Pouylane 160.
Pouzac 145.
Pouzauges 16.
Pouzin, Le 390. 411.
Poyaz, Case, de 288.
Pozzo di Borgo, Mont 464.
Pra, Chal. de la 332.
— , Col de la 329.
Pradel, Col d'El 168.
Prades 176. 385. 393.
Pralognan 308.
Pramecou, Olac. andRo-
chers de 305.
Pramelier 365.
Pranadal 254.
Prarion. the 270. 282.
Prariond, the 304.
Prat-et-Bonrepaux 162.
Prats-de-MoUo 180.
Praz. La 313.
— , Les 287. 278.
— Conduit, Le 279.
— de-Fort 2S0.
Pre, Chal. du 286.
— Delbos 254.
— du-Barbier, Case, du
245.
— Mme Carle 358. 361.
— St. Didier 286.
— Souleyran 376.
Pregnonx 245.
Preignac 64.
Prelles 343.
Pre'mol, Croix de 331.
— , Chartreuse de 331.
Premou, the 305.
Pres-de-Lars 293.
— les-Fonds, Pic and
Glac. des 366.
— Remond 329.
Pressins 29.5. 261.
Preste-les-Bains, La 180.
Preuilly 3.
Prevencheres 375.
Pringy-la-Caille 267.
Prioux 311.
Privas 390.
Fremont. Sacrum 468.
Propriano 465.
Prorel, Pic de 343.
Provence, the 427.
— , Ref. de 359^ 360.
Froveysieux 325.
Prune-au-Pot , Chat, de
la 34.
Prunete-Cervione 467.
Prunget, Ruins of 34.
Prunieres 341.
Puget-.sur-Areen3,Le445.
— Theniers 456.
— Ville 445.
Pugieu, Lac de 261.
Puignval, the 178.
Puiseux, Pointe 360.
— , Refuge 358. 359. 360.
Pujaut 391.
Pujo 91.
Pu'lignv 183.
Purtud", Chal. de 285.
Pusignan 224.
Piiv, Le 248.
— de Dome 238.
, Depart, of 231.
-, Petit 238.
Puvcerda 179
Puy-d'Issolu 92.
— Freyssinet 367.
— Oris 333.
— Guillaume 204.
— Imbert .3.5. 38.
— I'Kveque 88.
Puymorens, Col de 169.
Puyoo 105
I'uv-Ricard 427.
— St. Vincent 359
Puys, Le 350.
Piiyvachier 363.
Pvrauiide, the (Taillefer)
335
— Duhamel 353.
— Durand, Picdela360.
— , Pic de la (Sept-Laux)
333.
Pyrenees, the 99.
— , Basses 107.
— , Hautes 112.
— Orientales, Dep. of
the 173.
Pvriinont 261.
INDEX.
Quillan 171.
Quillane, La 171.
Quintino Sella, Rifiigio
di 281.
Quirlies, Glac. des 346.
Quissac 400-
Quairats, Pic 155.
Quatre-Routes 02.
— Seigneurs, Mont, des
331. ~
Quejeda de Pundillos.
133.
^ueriguefia , Col , Gorge
and Lac de 161.
Qupyras 368.
— , Combe de 368.
Queroy-Pranzac 10.
Queureilh, Case, du 245.
Queyrac .53.
Que/.ac 384.
Quezaguet 378-
Rabastens-de-Bigorre 90.
(Tarn) 96.
Rabot, Fort 324.
Rachais, Mont 324.
Raimbert-Preignan 89.
Ramie, Plan del 389
Ramond, Pic de 140.
Ramono, the 161.
Ranee, the 255.
Rancie, Mont de 166
Randais 177.
Randan, Chat, de 203.
Raphele 424.
Rappes, Les 273.
Rateau, the 353.
Ratonneau, lie 4,35.
Ravi, Pout de 1.57.
Ravix, Maison 327.
Razac 41.
Re, He de 22.
Realville 70.
Rebenty, Val.du 169.172
Rechasse, Pointe de la
309.
Reclavier 427.
Reclus, the 301.
Recoin 331.
Refuge Cezanne 358. 361
— Chancel 366.
— de Belledonne 347.
de la Bonne -Pierre
355. 361. 364.
de la Fare 346
de la Lauze 363.
— de la Lavev 349.
— de I'Alpe 354. 355.356.
363.
— de la Selle 350
— de la Vanoise 309
— de Provence 359. 360.
— des Lyonnais 369.
— des Nants 311.
— de Vars 387.
— d'Izouard 344
— du Carrelet 353. 354.
3.57.
— du Chatelleret 353. 354
355.
— du Lac Noir 350.
|— Joinville 359. 366.
I — Lombard 365.
'- Puiseux 3.58. 3.59. 360
|— Quintino Sella 281.
— Tuckett 359. 361.
I— Vignet 344.
493
Regalon, Gorge du 426.
Regny 196. _
Reignier 267.
Reine-Hortense, Grange
de la 129.
Remond, Pre's 329.
Remoulins 392.
Renardiere, La 197.
Rencluse, La 160.
Rennes-Ies-Bains 171.
Re'nod, Pointe 315.
Renoso, Mont 465.
Renteria 103.
e'ole. La 64.
Repentie, the 22.
Replat, Col de 331.
Restonica, the 466.
Retournac 248.
Reuilly (Indre) 31.
Revel (Tarn) 79.
— (Isere) 329. 341.
Rhemes, Col de 303.
Rhone, the 261 etc.
— , Grand 423.
— , Petit 423.
— , Dep. of the 212.
— , Perte du 262.
Rhune, La 102.
Ria 177.
Ribaute, Chat, de 381.
Riberac 41.
Ribereta, Cab. de 161.
Ribon, Valley of 316.
Ricamarie, La 247.
Richardiere, La .339.
Richelieu 14.
Rieou-la-Selle 367.
Rieumajou 380.
Rieupregan 163.
Riez 426.
— , Pic de 167.
Rigolet-Bas 244.
Ha»it 244.
Riols 380.
Riom 204.
Hi(in 59,
Riotord 198.
Riou, Col de 135
Rioubel, the 367.
Rioulet, Ravin du 143.
Riouperoux 335.
Riou-Sec, the 387.
Riquier 447.
Ris-Chateldon 204.
Riscle .59. 65.
Ristolas 369.
Ritort 311.
Rivarennes 13.
Rive-de-Gier 227.
Rivedoux 22.
Rivellata 468.
Rives 319.
Rivesaltes 173.
494
INDEX.
Kivets, Les 365.
Rivier-d'Allemont, Le
333.
Riviere 60. 386.
Rivoire, La 335.
Roaillan 64.
Roanne 196.
Roanne and Digoin Caual
183.
Robert, Laes 331.
Robiae 394.
Robine, the 172.
Rocamadour 92.
Roc de Bellpface 301.
— de Chere 291.
— du Diable 299.
Rochail, the 348.
— . Col du 348.
Roche. La 298.
Rochebaron,Chat. de248
Roche-Beranger 331.
Roche Blanche, the 353.
Rocheblave, Chat. de384.
Rochebrune, Grand Pie
de 344.
Roche -Chalais -St.Aigu
lin, La 11.
Rochechouart 10
Roche-Clermault, La 14.
Roche d'Alvau 364
. Col de la 364.
— de-Glun 410.
— des-Arnauds, the 310.
Rochefort 25. 240.
— , Chat, de 324.
Rochefoucauld, La 10.
Roche I'Aiguille 386.
Rochelle, La 20. 25.
Rochemaure 391.
Roche-Melon 316. 317.
Roche->Joire,Torrent 366.
Roche-Percee, the 288.
Rochepot, Chat. 183.
Itocher, Chal. sur le 279.
Rocher-Badon, the 333.
— Blanc 333. 355.
— du Col 309.
— Fendu 329.
— Blanc 333.
Rocherolles, Chat, de 34.
Rochers-Rouges 306. 360.
Ifoche-Sanadoire 245.
Roches-de-Condrieu 409.
Roche-sous-Brian(;on343.
— .sur-Foron,La267 268.
— .-iur-Yon, La 16. 24.
Roche-Taillante 369.
Rochetaillee 228.
Roche Tuiliere, the 245.
— Vendeix 245.
Kocheure Valley 310. 3i8.|Roussillon 173
Rocles 394. Roux, Le 369.
Rodez 97.'. iRoya, the 448. 456
Rodonnia 196.
Roftiac 377.
Rogliano 468.
Rognac 424
Roidomna 196.
Roignais 300.
Roland, Breche de 139
— , Fausse Breche de 138
— , Pas de 63.
Romanehe, the 334. 337.
Romaneehe 187.
Romans 328.
Romenay 184.
Romorantin 31.
Ronee, Pointe de 316.
Roneevaux, Col de 63
Roquebilliere 456.
Roque-Bouillac, Chat, de
la 97.
Roquebrune (Alpes-Ma-
rit.) 447.
— St. Aygulf 446.
Roquefavour 424
— , Aqueduct of 424.
Roquefort 379.
— , Chat, de 115.
— (Lande.?) 59.
Roquemanre 391.
Roque-Ste. Marguerite,
La 388
R0(iues-Altes, the 387.
Roquetaillade , Chat, de
64.
Rosairv, Chal. de 293.
Ro.selette, Mont 282.
Rosiers-d'Egletons 246.
Rossa, Lac della 317.
Rossignolet,Casc. du245.
Rossillon 261.
Rotondo, Monte 466.
Rouaine, Clus de 372.
Roubaud. He de 444.
Roubinarie 381.
Rouergue, the 97.
Rouffiac 382.
Rouge, Col 307.
Rougeac 253.
Rouget (Gers) 90.
Le (Cantal) 255.
Case, de 269.
— , Tete du 353.
Rouies, the 357.
, Col and Glacier des
357.
Rouille 18.
Roujan-Ne flies 381.
Boumazieres 10.
Roumigas, Val. de 125.
Rouquettes, Cirque des
388,
Royan 55.
Royat 235.
Rozier, Le (Tarn) 386.
Roziers-sur-Sioule, Les
240.
Rua, La 368.
Ruan, Mont 269.
Rubren, the Grand 342..
Ruburent, Col de 342.
Buchard, Camp du 12.
Rue, the 235.
Rue-des-Masques 367.
Ruelle 10
Ruessium 252.
Ruflee 8.
Ruffln, Roche 18.
Ruillans, Col des 363.
Ruines 377.
Rumilly 266.
Ruoms 394.
Rutor, the 286.
Sables, Les 335.
— d'Olonne, Les 17.
Sabliere, La 386.
Sablonnieres 224. 261.
Sabres 58.
Sac, Chal. au 262.
Sacourville 157.
Sacrous, Pic 160.
Sagerou, Col de 272.
Sagnes, Col de 254.
Saguette, Passo delle 370.
Saillagousse 178.
Saillans 411.
Saillant, Pie 151.
Saillat-Chassenon 10.
Saillens 169.
Sall-les-Bains 196.
soxis-Cousan 229.
Sain-Bel 223.
Saineaize 192.
St. Aft'rique 379.
St. Agnan 194.
St. Ague 115.
St. Aignan (Loir- et- O
31.
St. Alban 196.
— , Roe de 379
St. Albv 381.
St. Amand, Cote 203.
— — de-Boixe 8.
Mont-Rond 210.
St. Amans-Soult 381.
St. Amant-de-Graves 9.
St. Ambroix 394.
St. Andre 266.
, Chat, de 455.
— — , Cluses or Grotte-
de 455.
de Cubzac 29.
de Meouilles 372.
INDEX.
495
St. Andre'-du-Gaz or le-
Gua 319.
St. AntoJne iBouches-du
RhoneJ 429.
(Dordogne) 29.
(Isere) 328.
Port-Ste. Foy 12.
St. Antonin 94.
St. Astier 41.
St. Auban 371.
St. Aventin 154.
, Chap. 154.
St. Barthelemv 425. 456.
, Pic 68.
de-Sechilienne334.
St. Beat 151.
St. Benoist 13.
St. Benoit (Vienne) 7.
St. Bernard. Petit 28B.
St. Be'ron 295.
St. Bertraiul - de - Comin-
ges 150. 154.
St. Boil 185.
St. Bon 307.
St. Bonnet (Htes-Alpes)
341.
— Ebreuil 224.
— en-Bresse 184.
St. Bonnet-le-Chateau
229.
St. Bruno, Bridge 325.
St. Cassien, Erni. 450.
St. Cergufs 271.
St. Cesaire 400. 401.
St. Chaffrey 337.
St. Chamas 424.
St. diamond 227.
St. Charles, Chal. de 304.
St. Chely-d'Apcher 377.
— du-Tarn 385.
St. Chinian 80.
St. Christau 116.
St. Chri.stoly 54.
St. Christophe (Av.) 97.
en-Oisan.s 349.
, Clapier de 348.
St. Cirq-la-Popie 93.
St. Clair 260.
, Pont 292.
St. Claude 190.
St. Clement 342.
St. Cyprien 87.
St. Cyr (Var) 439.
au-Mont-d'Or 223.
— — de-Kavieres 197.
— — en-Val 30.
St. Denis-de-Piles 11.
— — pres-JIartel 92
St. Desert 185.
St. Desire 34.
St. Didier-la-Sauve 198.
St Egreve 320.
St. Elix 115.
St. Eloy 224.
St. Emilion 11.
St. Erval 254.
St. Estephe 53. 54.
St. Etienne (Loire) 227.
247.
— — de-Orossey 319.
di'-Tulmont 94
— — du-Valdonnes 382.
St. Eynard 325.
St. Feliu-d'Amont 176.
d'Aval 176.
St. Felix 79.
St. Ferreol, Basin of 79.
St. Feyre 226.
St. Florent (Cher) 209.
(Corse) 468.
St. Flour 377.
St. Front 87.
St. Galmier 197.
St. Gaudens 114.
St. Gengoux 185.
St. Genies 395.
I — — Montfauton 391.
St. Geniez. d'Olt 378.
|St. Genix-d'Aoste 224.
St. Genou 33.
St. Georges (Isere) 331.
, Defile of 171.
1 (Rhone) 187.
d'Aurac 253. 206.
375.
— — de-Commiers 337.
de-Didonne 54.
— — de-Lusenjon 379.
du-Bois 20.
St. Geours 60.
St. Gerand-le-Puy 195
St. Germain (Savoye) 293.
au-Mont-d'Or 187.
197.
— — de-Jou.\ 191.
des-Fosses 195.
d'Esteuil 53.
du-Plain lai.
— — Lembron 205.
— — I'Espinasse 196.
|St. Germe 59.
St. Gervais 380.
St. Gervais-les-Bains270.
I 294.
le- Village 270. 294.
St. Gervasy-Bezouce 392.
St. (jiers-Lalande 54.
St. Gilles 423.
Croix-de-Vie 30.
St. Gingolph 272.
St. Girons 162.
St. Guillaume, Mont 342.
St. Ililaire (Aude) 170.
I (Card) 395.
(Lot-et-Gar.) 65.
St. Nazaire 328.
St. Hippolvte-du-Fort
400.
St. Honorat, He 449.
St. Hospice. Chap. 447.
St. Hugon, Chartr. de 333.
St. Here, Chap. 386.
St. Jacques-des-Blats254.
St. .Iean,Penin.«ulaof447.
d'Angely 19.
— — d'Arve 365.
de-Balme 387.
-- — de-Bleymard 376.
— — de-la-Eiviere 456.
de-Luz 101.
— — de-Maurienne 313.
de-Sixt 295.
de-Vedas 381.
de-Verges 165.
du-Bruel 379.
— — du-Tournel 376.
et-St. Paul 379.
le-Comtal 90.
— — le-Centenier 393.
Pied-de-Port 63.
Pla-de-Cors 179.
St. Jeoire 268.
St. Jodard 197.
St. Jorioz 291.
St. Jory 70.
St. Joseph -de - Riviere]
325
St. Julien (Correze) 91.
(Hte-Gar.) 115.
(Haute- Sav.) 264.
208.
(Medoc) 53.
— — de-Cassagnas 392.
395.
— — des-Chazes 375.
— — du-Gourg 382.
— — en-Beauchene 340.
— — en-Vercors 328.
St. .lunien 11.
St. .Tust-sur-Loire 197.
— — pres-Chomelix252.
St. Marcel 391.
St. Rambert 198.
St. Justin 143.
St. Lager-Bressac 390.
St. Lattier 328.
St. Laurent (Medoc) 53.
— — (Haute-Savoie)267.
d'Aigouze 400.
— — de-Cerdans 180
— — de-la-Cabrerisse82.
de-la-Pree 25.
— — des-Bains 375.
d'Olt 377.
du-Pont 325. 295.
St. Julien 53.
St. Paul 114.
St. Leocadie 178.
St. Leonard 38.
496
St. Lizier 162.
St. Loubes 12.
St. Louis (B.-d.-Rh.)424.
, Col de 171.
St. Loup-sur-Thouet 15.
St. Lxipicin 190.
St. Macaire 64.
St. Maixent 18.
sur-Vie 30.
St. Mandrier, Hosp. 441.
St. Mareel (B.-du-Eh.}
439.
(Indre) 34.
(Isere) 328.
(Seine* Loire) 184.
— — les-Anuonay 198.
les-Valenee 329.
St. Marcelin (Tarn) 386.
St. Marcellin (Isere) 300.
St. Mariens 29.
St. Mart 235.
St. Martin-Charvonnex
267.
d'Ardeehe 394.
de-Bouillac 97.
— — de-Canieou 177.
de-Crau"424.
de-la-Cluse 339.
de-Re 23.
— — d'Estre'aux 195.
de-Taissac 171.
d'Uriage 331.
du-Var 456.
— — en-Vercors 328.
— — Lantosque 456.
, Cape 62.
St. Martory 114.
St. Maurice (Suisse) 273.
St. Maurice - en- Trieves
339.
St. Maximin 429.
St. Me'ard 41.
St. Medard 41.
— — d'Evrans 63.
St. Meme"9
St. Menet 438
St. Menoux 194.
St. Mesuiin-le-Vieux 16.
St. Michel -de-Chaillol
341.
de-Cousseaux,Mont.
de 371.
de-Cuixa 176.
— — de-Maurienne 313.
les-Portes 339
— — sur-Charente 9.
St. Miquel, Hermit. 387.
St. Nazaire 439.
St. Nectaire 246.
St. Nicolas-de-la-Baler-
me 67.
de-la-Chapelle 294.
de-Veroce 283.
INDEX.
St. Nicolas-Mauvanne
446.
St. Nizaire 328.
St. Mizier 327.
St. Ours-les-Roches 240.
St. Palais 105.
St. Pal-St. Remain 198.
St. Papoul 79.
St. Pardoux 39.
St. Pargoire 381.
St. Paul, Prieure de 49.
d'Oueil 156.
— — le-Jeune 394.
— — les-Dax 60.
— — les-Romans 328.
— — sur-Ubaye 341.
St Paulien 252.
St. Paul-St Antoine 166.
— — Troix-Chateaux
412.
St. Pe 110.
St. Perav 390.
St. Pierre-d'Albigny 297.
d'Allevard 332.
— — d'Almanarre 444
— — d'Aurillae &i.
de-Boeuf 390.
— — de-Chartreuse 326.
— — de-Chignae 91.
de-Rhedes 380.
de-Rumilly 268.
des-Corps 2. 31.
des-Horts 444.
d'Oleron 26.
le-Moutier 192.
, Torrent of 315.
, Vallonde360.361.
St. Pons 380.
, Monast. 455.
St Pourcain 195.
St. Preje't-du-Tarn 388.
St. Priest (Isere) 318
St. Privat, Herm. of 382.
St. (Juentin-Fallavier
(Isere) 318.
St. Eauibert (Rhone) 187.
223.
' d'Albon 409. 198.
— — en-Bugey 261.
— — sur-Loire 198.
St. Raphael 446.
St. Remy (Allier) 204.
— — (Bouches du Rh.)
419.
(Puy-de-D6me)230.
sur-DuroUe 230.
St. Robert 320. 325.
St. Roch , Montague de
270.
St. Roinain-de-Popey
197.
en-Gier 227.
le-Puv 229.
St. Rome-de-Cernon 379.
St. Saturnin 425.
St. Sauveur (lie d'Yeu)
30
^ (Pyr.) 136.
, Gorge de 138.
de-Peyre 377.
des-Pourcils 387.
en Rue 198.
St. Savin (Htes-Pyr.) 126.
— (Vienne) 7.
St. Savinien-sur-Charen-
te 26.
St. Saviol 7.
St. Sebastien (Creuse)34.
— (Spain) 103.
St. Sernin 163. 393.
St. Sorlin-Milly 195.
St. Sulpice (Tarn) 70. 97.
d'Izon 12.
— Lauriere 7. 35. 226.
St. Symphorien (Gi-
ronde) 64. 56.
St. Thurin 230.
St. Tropez 446.
St. Valuer 446.
St. Vaury 226.
St. Veran 388.
— , Ravine of 388.
St. Victor-siir-Loire 198.
Thizy 196.
St. Vincent (Hte- Loire)
248.
(Landes) 60.
de-Paul 59.
St. Vivien 53.
St. Yorre 203.
St. Yrieix 91.
Ste. Agnes 460.
Ste. Anne, Lac 368.
Ste. Baume 429.
Ste. Bazeille 64.
Ste. Cecile-d'Andorge
376.
Ste. Christie 89.
Ste. Colombe (Aude) 171.
(Vaucluse) 419.
la-Vienne 390.
Ste. Enimie 385.
Ste. Feyre 226.
Ste. Foy (Savoy) 301.
— — la-Grande 12.
— — TArgentiere 224.
Ste. He'lene, Mont 303.
(Lot) 376.
du-Lac 330.
— — des-JIillieres 297.
Ste. Leocadie 178.
Ste. Lizaigne 31.
Ste. Lucie 172.
Ste. Marguerite, lie 449.
— , Montagne 366.
— , Roque 379.
Ste. Marie (Oloron) 116.'
— — (Val. (le Canipau)
145. 150.
, Bains de 151.
, Chateau 136.
, Pont 271.
Siche 464.
Ste. Marthe 429.
Ste. Maure 3.
Ste. Blaxime 446.
Ste. Pazanne 29.
Ste. Tulle 427.
Ste. Victoire, Mont, de
427.
Saintes 26.
Saintonge, La 26.
Saison, the 106.
Salaise 409.
Salanfe, the 273. 289.
Salanques. Pic de las
^161.
Salat, the 162.
Salbris 30
Salces 173.
Saldeu, Port de 169.
Sale'chan 151.
Saleinaz, Glac. de 280.
Saleix 164.
— , Port de 164.
Salent, Cab. de lii.
Salernes 427.
Sales, Chal. des 302.
— , Point e de 269.
Salette, La 338.
— , Chat, de la 266.
Saleves, the 268.
Saleze, Combe de 456.
Saigas 383.
Salies-de-15e'arn 105.
— du-Salat 162.
Salindres 395.
Salins d'Hveres, the 444.
— 'Neufs 444.
— (Savoy) 306.
Sallanches 270.
Salle, La 338.
— , Chat, de la 298.
Salient 125.
— , Col de 133.
Salles-Adour 145.
— Courbatier 93.
— la-Source 97.
Sallieres, Cote des 3*4.
— , Tour 272.
Salomons, Les 365.
Salon 426. 423.
Salvador-Guillemin,
Mont 360.
Salvagnv. 269.
Salvan 389,
Salvetat, La 380. |
Sames 105. i
Samoens 269. I
liaedeker. Southern
INDEX.
Samognat 190.
Sana,Pointede la 304.306.
Sanadoire, Roche 245.
San Bonifacio 464.
Sancv, Col de 243.
-, Puy de 243. 235.
San Dalmazzo di Tenda
456.
San Fiorenzo 468.
Sanguinarie, Isole 462.
Sanitium 372.
San Pietro, Mont 467.
— — di Venaco 465.
San Sebastian 103.
Sans-Venin, Tour 327.
Santa Cristina 118.
— Maddalena 465.
— Reparata, Monte 468.
— Severa 468.
Santenay 183.
Sanxay 18.
Saone, the 185. 214.
Saone-et-Loire, Dep. of
185.
Saoubiste, Pic de 124.
Saousat, Lac de 155.
Sapeniere, La 358. 360.
Sappey, Le 326.
Sarennes. Casc.'de la 335
346.
Sarlat 87.
Sarlieve-Cournon' 205.
Sarradets, Ech. des 139
—, Font des 139.
— . Patur. des 139.
-, Pic des 138.
Sarrance 117.
Sarrancdlin 150
Sarras 390.
Sarret, Grange du 254.
Sartene 465.
Sassenage 327.
Sassiere, Lac de la 303
Sassis 1.35.
Sathonav 189. 224.
Satignv "262.
Saubusse 60.
Saucede, Col de 122.
Sauclieres 379.
Saujon 28.
Saulce 411.
Saiildre, La 30.
Saule, Saut de la 246.
Sault, Le 261.
— , Passage du 266.
Saumail, Col du 380.
Saume, La 368.
Sauphaz, La 293.
Saurat 103.
Saussaz, La 365.
-, Aig. de la 365.
Sausse, Cab. de 134.
Saussier 317.
France.
497
Saussure, Pavil. 286.
Saut, Chal. du 306.
Saut-de-Charmine 190.
— de-la-Pucelle 336.
— du-Loup, Le 205.
, Case, du 245.
Saut ernes 64.
Sautet, Lac du 303.
Sauve 400.
— , La 52.
Sauvegarde , Pic de 159.
Sauveterre 382.
— , Causse de 382.
— de-Bearn 105.
— (Lot-et-Garonne) 87.
— Ostende 67.
Saverdun 164.
Savigny 223.
Savines 342.
Savov 296.
— , Dep. of 290.
Savoyardiere 325.
Saxe| La 285.
— , Mont de 286.
Savs, Col du 352.
— ," Pic du 357.
Sazos 135.
Scarena 456.
Sea, Col du 318.
Se'chilienne 134.
Seculejo, Lac de 155.
Sedelle, the 324.
Seez (Savoy) 301.
Segala 79.
Se'gonnau.x 420.
Segre, Pic de 178.
Seguret-Foran, Glac. and
Col de 367.
Seigne, Col de la 284.
Seil de la Baque 155.
Seix 163.
Se'le, Col, Glac, andPointe
du 358.
Sellar, Col du 359.
Selle, Glac. de la 350.
— , Ref. de la 350.
-, Vallon de la 350. 359.
Sellettes, Glac. and Col
des 352.
Sellon, Col du 341.
Sem 166.
Semence, the 195.
Semnoz, the 292.
Senez 372.
Senissiat 190.
Sennecey-le-Grand 185.
.Senozan 185.
Sentein 162.
Seou-St. Andre' 425.
— St. Heari 425.
Se'pet, Cap 440. 442.
Septemes 429.
Sept-Fonds 70. 194.
498
INDEX.
Sept-Laux 333. [Sode 158.
Serdinya 178. ISolage, Case, de 158
Se'reyrede, La 387. 401. jSolario, spring 464.
Serezin 407. |Soler, Le 176.
Serpent, Case, du (Auv.l Solfe'rino 58.
248. |— , Chap, de 136.
Serra, Mts. 468. Solignac 38.
Serraggio 465. SoUieres 315.
Serrat de Marialles 177.ISollies-Pont 444.
Serraval, Col de 295. Sologne, the 30
Serre, Col de la 157
Serre du Bouquet 395
Serres 370.
Serrieres 390.
Serrigny 182.
Serts 137.
— , Cirque de 143.
Seru, Chalets de 304.
Servas 395.
Serves 409. ,^ ,.
Servette, Chat, de la 261. Soreiller the 348.
Servoz 271. Soreze 79.
Sesartigues,Foret del58. Sorgue, the 414. 425.
Seudre, the 28. Sorgues 414.
Seugne, the 28. — , the 379.
Severac, Causse de 378. Sospello 456.
Severac-le- Chateau 98. Soturac-Touzae 88.
378. Soubie 41.
Severaisse, the 338. 352. Soubiron 119.
Sevre-Nantaise 16. 22. ISoudeilles 246.
- , Canal de la 30.
Som, the Grand 326.
— de Baeeimaille 133.
— de Laze 136.
— la-Proz 260.
Sommieres 400. 401.
Somport 118.
Sonaille, the 341.
Sone, La 328.
Sore 64.
— Xiortaise 15. 16. 18.
Sevrier 291.
Seye, Plan du 346.
Seyne, La 439.
Seyne-les-Alpes 371.
Seynes 395.
Seyssel 261.
Seyssinet 327.
Sia, Pont de 138.
Soueix 163
ISoufrtet 271.
SouiUac 91.
:So\ilac-les-Bains 53.
Soularac, Pic de 168.
jSouliers, Vallon des 344.
SouUans 30.
ISoulom 135.
Soulor, Col de 122.
Siagne, Gorges de la450.'Soum 135.
Sichon, the 202. Sourde, the 386.
Sieier, Cap 440. 442. Soureillan', Grotte de
Sieroz, the 266. I 360.
— , Gorges du 266. Soussans 53
Signora, Pointe della342. Sossoueou, Gorge of 124
Sijean 82. 172.
Silan, Lac de 191.
Siniandre-Suran 190.
Simiane, Chat, de 429
Sinderes 59.
Siorae 87
Souterraine, La 34.
Souvigny 193.
Souzon, Col de 124.
Soveria 466.
Soyons 390.
Spi.joles, Pic de 155.
[sfello, Monte 468.
|St<Echade,«, the 444.
Sioule, the 195.205. 224..SpUunoiis, Case, de 132.
235, I'" ••- »'- '- •■no
Sirac, the 352.
— , Col du 360. IStretta 466.
Siradan 151. Stura d'Ala, the 317.
Sireuil 9. — della Gura, the 318.
Sirol, the 456. Suarella 464.
Sisteron 370. Suberlache 117.
Six-Fours 442. Subra, Cab. de 167.
Sixt 269. jSuche, Chal. of La 303
Sobe, Col de 125. Suehet, Le 456.
Socoa, Pointe de 101. '— , Gr. and Pet. 239.
Sud, Pie (Grandes-Rous-
j ses) 346.
— , Pointe (Tetes duCrou-
I zet) 351.
Sulpice-Lauriere 226.
Sumene 401.
Summus Portus 418.
Snperbagneres 157.
Suran, the 190.
Surgeres 20.
Sur-les-Bois 292.
Sury-le-Comtal 229.
Susa 316.
Susanfe, Alp 272.
Suzon, Col de 124.
Tabuc, Valley of the 366.
Tache, Puy de la 245.
Tacon, the 190.
iTaconnaz, Glac. de 271.
Tacul, Cab. du 281.
— , Glac. du 276.
— , Mont -Blanc du 279.
281.
iTaillat, La 332.
Taillebourg 26. 20.
Taillefer, the 334.
Taillefert, Pic dp 175.
.Talllon, the 138. 139.
— , Col du 139.
Tain 409.
Tslfti'' 53
Talefre,Glae. de276. 280.
— , Aig. and Col de 280.
— , Seracs de 277.
Talizat 377.
Tallard 340.
Talloires 291.
Tamaris 376.
Tamie, Col de 297.
Tanargue, the 394.
Taninges 268. 269.
Tapiaz, La 279.
Tarare 196.
Tarascon (Ariege) 166.
— (B.-du-Eh.) 419.
Tarassac, Pont de 380.
Tarbes 112.
Tardes , Viaduct of the
225
Tardets 106.
Tarentaise, tlie 298.
Tarn, the 68. 95. 383.
— , Caiion du 384.
— , Dep. of the 95.
— , Sources of the 376.
Tarn-et-Garonnne, Dep.
of 68.
Tarnesque 377.
Tarnon, the 3a3.
Tartaret, the 246.
Taiich, Mont, de 83.
INDEX.
499
Taussac, Plateau of 380.1
Taussat 56.
Tavaux 184.
Tave, the 391.
Taverncttes, Les 315.
Tavignano, the 465.
Tech, Le 175. 180.
Teich, Le 57.
Teil, Le 391.
Telo Martius 439.
Temple, Col de la 358
— , Glacier de la 358. 361.
— , Pic de la 358.
Tenaison, Habert de 325.
Tenay 261.
Tencin 329.
Tenda 456.
— , Col de 456.
Tenneverge, Pic and Col
de 269.
Tercis 60.
Ternay, Barrage du 198.
Terrasson 91.
Terreaux-Verosvres, Les
195.
Terrenoire 227.
Tessonnieres 95.
Teste, La 57.
Tet, the 173.
Tete-de-Chien 457.
— Noire (Haute-Savoie)
270.
-, Gouffre de la 288.
— (Suisse) 288.
Tete-Pelouse 295.
Thabor, Mont and Pic du
313. 367.
Thau, Etang de 86. 406.
Theillay 31.
Theols, the 31.
Theoule 446. 450.
Thermignon 315.
Theys 329.
Thezan 82.
Theziers 392.
Thiers 230.
Thiczac 254.
Thiviers 38.
Thizy 196.
Thoncs 294.
Thonon 271.
Thor 425.
Thorame-Haute 371.
Thorins 187.
Thouars 15.
Thouet, the 15.
Thues, Bains de 178.
Thues-de-Llar 178.
Thueyts 393.
Thuile, La (Italy) 286..
Thuiles, Les 34f.
Thuille (Savoy) 301.
Thures, Chal. and Col
des 367.
Thuria, Mont 301.
TiUauges 23,
Tignes 302.
— , Lac de 305.
Tillet, Col du 149.
Timozzo 466.
Tines, Les 287.
Tirfaine, the 236.
Titan, He du 414.
Toscane-St. Apre 41.
Tolosa 71.
Tondu, Mont 283.
Tonnay-Charente 26.
Tonneins 65.
Torl'ou-Tiffauges 23.
Toro, Trou du 160.
Torretta 455.
Tort, Lac 168.
iTortes, Col de 122.
Toue, Cab. de 143. 149.
Touet-de-rEscarene 456.
iToulon 439.
Touloubre, the 424.
1 Toulouse 70.
Academies 73.
AUee Lafayette 72.
— St. Michel 76.
Bassin de TEmbouch.
75.
Canal de Brienne 75.
— du Midi 72.
Cathedral 76.
Capitole 73.
Chap, de I'lnquis. 76.
Chateaux d'Eau 75
Church de la Dalbade
76.
— de la Daurade 75.
— des Cordeliers 74.
— des Jacobins 74
— du Taur 73.
— St. Etienne 76.
— St. Saturnin, or
— St. Sernin 73.
Faculty of Medic. 76.
Grand-Rond 76.
Hospice St. Joseph-de-
la-Grave 75.
Hotel d'Assezat 75.
— de Ville 73.
— Dieu-St. Jacques 75.
— Felzins 76.
— Lasbordes 76.
— St Jean 76
Jardin des Plantes 76.
— Royal 76.
Lycee 74.
Maison de Pierre 76.
Moulin de liazacle 75.
— du Chateau 75.
Museum 77.
Toulouse :
Museum, Nat. Hist. 76.
Obelisk 73.
Observatory 73.
Palais de Justice 76.
Place du Capitole 73
— du Salin 76.
Pont-Neuf 75
Railway Stations 70.
Rue d'Als.-Lor. 73.
Statue of Cujas 76.
— of Riquet 72.
Temple protest. 74.
Theatre du Capitole 73.
Town Libray 74.
Veterinary College 72.
Toulouse , Croix de
343
Tour,' La 138.
, Le 274.
, Aig de la 279.
— , Aig. du 280 289.
, Col du 280
, Glac du 274 280
— de-Millery, La 226.
du-Diable, La 175
— du-Pin, La 319
Toura, Tete du 350.
Tourette, La 455
Tour-Fondue. La 444.
Tourmalet, Col and Pic
du 145.
Tournabout, Pont de 143.
Tournav (Htes-Pvr ) 113.
Tourne, Col de la 306.
Tournefort, Aub. del49.
Tournemire 379.
Tournette, the (Hte-Sa-
oie) 293.
(Savoy) 298.
Tournoel, Chat, de 240.
Tour-Noire, the 280.
Tournon (Ardeche) 390.
Tournus 185.
Tourond, Col and Pic de
341.
Tours (Indre-et-L ) 2. 12.
— (Savoy) 298.
Tourves 429.
Touvet, Le 329
Touvre 10
Touzon, Chat de 425.
Tracens, Lac de 145.
Tramesaygues 145.
Trans 445.
Traverse, Pic 369.
Traversette, Col de 369.
Trayas, Le 446.
Trebes 82.
Trebons 157.
Tregon, Case de 158
Treignat 225.
Trelatete, Col de 233.
32*
500
INDEX.
Trelatete, Pav. , Glae
and Aig. de 283.
Trelechamp 287.
Tremblade, La 28.
Tremolat 12.
Trentels-Ladignae 89.
Trept 224.
Tresanne 339.
Trets 429.
Treuil, Tour du 332.
Treves-Burel 227.
Trevoux 187.
Tricastrum 412.
Tricherie, La 3.
Trieot, Aig. du 282.
Triege, Case, of 289.
— , Gorges du 289.
Trient 288.
-, the 288. 273.
— , Col de 289.
— , Glae. de 273. 280.
— , Gorge du 273.
Trievcs, the 339.
Triggione, Font, de 466.
Trillers, Le.s 210.
Trimouille (la) 7.
Trinite-Vietor, La 456.
Triolet, Aig. de 280.
--, Col de 280.
Triquent 289.
Trois-Couronnes 103.
Trois-Dents, Pic des 228
Trois-Eveche's , Pic des
365,
Trois-Ponts, Les 379.
Trois-Pucelles 327.
Trompeloup 54.
Tronehe, La 325
Tronehet, Col de 368
Tronget 194.
Troumouse, Cirque and
Pic de 141.
Truel, Le 387.
Truyere, the 377.
Tsours, Les 279.
Tuc de rHomme -Mort
163.
Tuehan 83.
Tuckett, Col 367.
— , Couloir 360.
-, Ref. 359. 361.
Tude, the 11.
Tuge'ras-Chartuzac 28.
Tuiliere, Roche 245.
Tulle 247.
TuUius 328.
Tuquerove, Kch. and
Breche" de 139.
Turbia 447. 457.
Turenne 92.
Turin 314.
Turmes. Cab. de 161.
Turmon, Gouffre de 160.
TTbaye 341.
— , Valley of the 341.
Ubavette, the 341.
Ucet'ia 392.
Uchizy 185.
Ugines 294.
Urjav 210.
Ureuit 105.
Urdos 118.
— . Fort d' 117.
— , Port d' 118.
Urets, Port d' 163.
Uriage 330.
Urine,Val. and Cold" 368
Urrugne 102.
Urt 105.
Urumea, the 104.
Ussat 167.
Usseglio 317.
Ussel 246.
IJsson 171.
Ustaritz 63.
Utelle 456.
U.vellodunum 92. 246.
Uza 59.
Uzerche 91.
Uzes 392.
Uzious,Col and Lac d'122.
Uzore, Mont d' 229.
Vaecares, Etang de 423
Vaehe, Cime de la 304.
Vache, Glae. du Col de
la 304.
— , Col de la 304.
Vaches, Lac des 309.
Vachette, La 344.
Vaison 413.
Valaisan, Mont 286.
Valante, Col de 368. 369.
Valbenoite 228.
Valbonne 175.
— , La 261.
Val-de-Tignes 303.
Val-dlsere 303.
Valdonne 438
Valence (Drome) 410.
— d'Agen 67.
Valentia 410.
Valeyrae 54.
V'alezan, Pointe de 286.
Valeodemar, La Chapelle
en 352.
— , Le Clot en 352.
Valgorge 394.
Val Grisanche 301.
Valhombree , Habert de
425.
Vallauris 450.
Vallee-Blanche 281.
Etroite 313. 367.
— , Col de la 313.
Valleiry 268.
Valleraugue 401.
Valleres 12.
Vallespur 179.
Valloire 336.
— , Chal. of 333.
— , Combe de 333.
Vallon (AUier) 210.
— (Isere) 394.
— , Breche du 348.
— , Cime du 352.
— , Combe du 358.
— , Glacier du 351. 355.
357.1
— , — du Grand 351.
— , Montagne du 366.
— , Pointe or Croix du
307.
Vallonet, Glacier 316.
— de la Gliere, Pointe
du 310.
— du Thermignon,
Pointe du 309. 316.
Vallon Obscur 455.
Vallot, Cabane 281.
Vallouise 343. 3.59.
— , Col de 367.
Valorcine 288.
Valpre'vaire , Combe de
368.
Valromey, the 191.
Val Savaranche 304.
Valsenestre 348.
, Breche de 348.
Valserine, the 191. 262.]
Vals-les-Bains 393.
Vanoise, Aig. de la 309.
,ColandRef. de la 309.
Range 311. 308. 310.
Vans, Les 394.
Vapincum 340.
Var 447.
, the 372. 447. 455. 456.
, Depart, of 445.
Varennes-le-Grand 185.
sur-AUier 195.
Varens, Aig. de 270.
Varetz 91.
Varilhes 165.
Vars (Charente) 8.
— (Isere) 367.
Col. and Ref. de 367.
Vassiviere 243.
Vauclaire, Chartr. de 41.
Vaucluse 425.
— , Font, de 425.
, Depart, of 414.
Vaudois, Wall of the 343.
Valleys 369.
Vaugris 409.
Vaulnaveys, Val. of 331.
Vaulx-Milieu 318.
Vauriat 240.
INDEX.
501
Vauvert 400.
Vavrette-Tossiat IS'J.
Vaxivier, the 357.
Vayres 12. ^
Veauce, Chat, de 324
Vcbron 382.
Vecehio, the 465.
Vefrette, Col de 317. 318.
Velaux 424.
Velav, the 248.
Velluire 24.
Venanson 456.
Venasque 161.
— , Hosp. and Port de
159. 161.
— . Bains de 161.
Vence, Col de 326.
— Cagnes 447.
Vendee, the 24.
— , Dep. of the 16.
ViMulei.x, Roche 245.
Vendranges-St. Priest 197
Venelles''427.
Vene'on, Vallev of the
347. 361.
Venerque-le-Vernet 164.
Vcni, Val de 285.
Venisseux 318.
Venose 348.
— , Aig. de 348.
Vensac 53.
Ventelon 365.
Venthon 298.
Ventiniiglia 44S.
Ventonx, Mont 413. 419.
Vercheny 411.
Verdelais 64.
Verdon, Le 53.
— , Croix de 307.
— , Canal du 427.
— , Valley 371.
Verdonne, Pic de 360.
Verdnn-sur-le-l)oubs 184
Verel 293.
Vernaison 226.
— , Valley of the 328.
Vernay 224.
Vernayaz 273. 289.
Vernazobres, Val. of 380.
Vernet, Le 177.
— d'Ariege 165.
Verney, Le 315.
Vernier-Meyrin 262.
Verniere, Case, de la 243.
245.
VernioUe 165.
Veroilley 273.
Verpilliere, La 318.
Versannes 87.
Vert, Col 177.
— , Lac 158.
Vertaizon 230.
Verteuil 53.
Vertou 23.
Verzeille 170.
Vesonne 293.
Vesseaux 390.
Ve'subie, the 456.
Vesuna 39.
Veyer 368.
Veyinont, the Grand 339
Veynes 340.
Veyrier 291.
— , Montagne de 291. 292
Vezenobres 395.
Ve'zeronce, the 261.
Vezere, the 38. 87. 91.
Viam 38._
Vianne 65.
Vias 86.
Vic 163.
— Bigorre 59. 91.
Vicdessos 166.
Vichy 199.
Vic-le-Comte 205.
— Mireval 406.
— sur-Cere 254.
Vicus Calidus 200.
Vidauban 445.
Vidourle, the 401. 423.
Vie, the 30.
Viege, the 272.
Vieilleville 226.
Vielle-Adour 145.
Vienna Allobrogum 407.
Vienne (Isere) 407.
-, the 3. 6. 14. 35.
— , Dep. of the. 3.
Vierzon 31. 206.
Vieux, Col 368.
— Boucau 60.
— Chaillol 341. 340.
— Salins, Les 444.
— Soulac 53.
Vieuzac 125.
Vif 338.
Vigan, Le 401.
Vigen, Le 38.
Vigilia 334.
Vigneaux 343.
Vignemale, the 132. 140.
— , Col and Onl. du 132.
Vignes, Les 386.
Vignet, Refuge 344.
Vignols-St. Solve 91.
Villa, La 229.
Villair 286.
Villandravit 64.
Villard (Dauphine) 359.
— , Dent de 307.
— (Hte. Savoie) 293 308.
310.
— d'Arene 336. 362.
— de-Beaufort 298.
— de-Lans 328.
— Eymond 348.
ViUard-Salelles, Le 382.
Villards, Les 295.
Villaret 386.
ViUarodin 315.
ViUaroger 301.
Villars (Loire) 229.
— (Auv.) 237.
ViUaz 292.
Villecelle 380.
Villecomtal-s.-Arros 90.
Villedaigne 82.
Villedieu, La 68.
Villefort 375.
Villefranche (Alpes-Ma-
ritimes) 447.
— (Bourbonnais) 194.
— (Pyr. -Orient.) 177.
— (Rhone) 187.
— de-Belves 87.
— de-Conflent 177.
— de-Lauragais 79.
— de-Rouergue 93.
— snr-Cher 31.
Villelanre 426.
Villemagne 380.
Villeumr 70.
Villenave (H.-Pyr.) 138.
— d'Ornon 63.
Villeneuve (Aveyron) 93.
— (Htes-Alpes) 308. 331.
337.
— de-Berg 393.
— la-Comtesse 19.
— les-Avignon 391.
— les-Be'ziers 86.
— les-BIaguelonne 406.
— Pujaut 391.
— sur-Allier 192.
sur-Lot 89.
, Rocher de 308.
Villenouvelle 79.
Villeperdue 3.
Villereversure 190.
Villerouge-de -Terme'nes
82
ViUe-Vallouise 359.
Villette (Isere) 300.
— , La (Htes-Alpes) 382.
Villeurbanne 224.
Villeveyrac 380.
Vinaigre, Mont 446.
Vinaigrier, the 455.
Vinav 328.
Vinja 176.
Vindrac 94.
Vintimille 448.
Violent. Puv 2.54.
Vion 390.
Virieu-sur-Bourbre 319.
— le-Grand 261.
Virole, Saut de la 38.
Viry 268.
Vis, Gorges of the 401.
502
INDEX.
Visaille, C'antine Ue la
285.
Viscos, Pic de 135.
Viso, Monte 369.
, Little 369.
— , Col du 370.
Visoulet, Le 369.
Vitrolles 425.
Via 317.
Vivarais, the 393.
Vivario 465.
Viviers (Savoy) 296.
— snr-Rhone 391.
Viviez 97.
Vivonne 7.
Vix 24.
Vizille 334. 337.
Vizzavona 465.
Vocoeotir, Chat, de 38.
Vogealle 272.
Vogue- Vals 393.
Voiron 319.
Voirons, the 271.
Volane, the 393.
Volnay 183.
Volonne 371.
Volvie 240.
Vol.\ 426.
Vonnas 188.
Vonne, the 18.
Voreppe 320! 325.
Vorej; 248.
Voudene, the Grande
329.
— , the Petite 335.
iVougeot 182.
Voulte, La 390.
Voute, La 248.
Vouvry 272.
Vouzon 30.
Voza, Col de 282. 281.
Vuache, Mont 262.
Vuzelle. Pointe de la
Yehoux 58.
Yenne, Deflle of 266.
Yen, He d' 80.
Yon, the 16.
Yret, Rocher de 1' 367.
Ytrae 255.
Zerbaziere, Chalet 274.
Zieavo 464.
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